# Workbench top- MDF or Maple/Oak PLY?



## MikeHGA79

I'm sure this has been discussed at length on the forum but I couldn't find anything that compared these materials.

I'm starting to plan out my first workbench and I'm trying to decide what to use for the top. I went to Home Depot and noticed they had 3/4" MDF, as well as some Oak and Maple PLY…I think they had Birch as well. I really have little experience with these materials so I would appreciate any advice you all can provide.

Thanks!


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## Beginningwoodworker

I am going to use three sheets on 3/4'' Birch plywood for my workbench top!


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## JAGWAH

Just for starters the Q is, Will this bench be for utility shop work or show?

As for a uility top getting a lot of use consider your top an item you might have to replace from time to time due to saw cuts holes and excess glue issues. All typical stuff that happens. Make the top of MDF then cover with 1/4" temp or if a cardboard supplier is nearby by sheets as you need them to lay on top.

I do all these and I have a roll of rosin/construction paper at the foot of my bench to drag across and use under my glue-ups or just to draw items to scale on to figure out design issues.


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## MikeHGA79

Wow, 3 sheets?! Is that to eliminate any kind of bend that 1 or 2 sheets might give?


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## MikeHGA79

Well….I would be doing work on it…but nothing hardcore. I'm bascially looking for an area to work on small projects and also have an area to peg board all of my tools and randoms.


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## interpim

it sounds to me like your looking more for a utility bench.

I have a bench that I use for similar purposes which is framed with 2×4 construction lumber, and topped with a single layer of 3/4" plywood. The top is finished with wax only, and has held up well for the past year. If you want more of a bench to do planing, sawing or chiseling on (requiring the use of a vice) I would recommend using a more stable base construction.


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## MikeHGA79

OK, thanks for the advice.

I do plan on having a vice bolted to the workbench, or "utility" bench….that would probably be the most heavy duty aspect of the use I can think of.


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## JimDantin

Consider using a top layer of tempered hardboard (Masonite) that can be easily replaced when it gets banged up. I built a utility workbench out of 3/4" MDF with a 2×2 pine subframe. It has a face frame of pine 1×4 (attached with glue and screws through the 2×2's that sits proud above the MDF and holds the hardboard without any screws or glue.

Prior to starting on my Gluebo bench project, I was going to build a big bench with two layers of 3/4" MDF, a maple face frame, and a hardboard top surface.


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## BlankMan

I wouldn't use oak or any veneer plywood, from my experience with it the inner plys are soft, especially the stuff HD sells. I discovered that by the round indentation from Bessey clamps.

I use AC plywood and glue 2 or 3 together to get the thickness I want. I then put 1/4" tempered hardboard on the top, when it becomes abused you just replace it and you're good to go again. All my benches are done that way as is the outfeed table on my UniSaw except it has Formica laminated to it.


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## a1Jim

In my work table it is framed like a floor and has one sheet of 1 1/8" of wafer board with 1/4" top layer of melamine. not fancy but sturdy.


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## Taigert

Jim and Jawwaw and other have the right idea about the 1/4" tempered board.

As for buying from Home depot or Loews, I wouldn't buy any lumber from them they carry nothing but garbage. Try finding a good lumber yard where the cab shops buy from. You will be much better off going that route.


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## JAGWAH

Taigert

Even my Mom & Pop lumber yard carries imports. You have to be careful where ever you go and ask specific questions.

An Arkansas supplier, Plunkett, I use list their plys and identifys them as domestic or import which helps.


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## DerekL

Even from Home Despot you can make a reasonable utility bench, and with care in wood selection and preparation you can make more complex projects as well.



This is my utility workbench, made with lumber from Home Depot, and it works just fine.



This cart was also built with lumber from Home Depot and the flaws in it are my own from not being careful in selecting the boards.


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## Microsuffer

Think about building a work bench for a while. The tendency is to make mistakes that trouble you for quite a while, but having something also discourages replacing unsatisfactory with anything better. Setting up to do a very flat and wrack resistant bench might sound like too much effort, but it could pay off in the long run. I would browse for this topic and look at a lot of bench work before settling on a design.


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## Pezman

I used 1 sheet of 3/4" MDF. I cut it in half (long way) and glued it together so it is 1 1/2" thick now. I then added an edging made of a pine 1×4 cut to 1×1 1/2" around the side so it doesn't flake during wear and tear.

I'm a total newbie so you might want to take advice from the other guys over me. I just know my solution was awful cheap.


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## Microsuffer

FWIW I used 3 layers of 3/4 MDF and 1/4 birch ply as cladding. The latter because I wanted a cool looking surface to cover the battleship I was making. And I was reluctant to buy an expensive work bench and then tear it up with some newby mistakes. The biggest problem with that cheap and simple solution it is that it is so good I have difficulties justifying a better bench. But the itch for better is there.


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## JimDantin

MikeHGa79-some of us get pretty hardcore when designing a bench. You noted that this will be a UTILITY bench for SMALL projects. This is quite different than a serious woodworkers bench that may be used for building cabinets or other projects that require a dead-level work surface. So step back and think about your NEEDS, rather than following other people's designs.

For simple, small, lightweight projects where you just need a convenient and durable worksurface, you won't need to build a 300 pound monster-a single layer of 3/4" MDF or plywood over a simple 2×4 frame will work. A solid-core door will also work. The surface should be hard and resistant to your usage-maybe a few layers of polyurethane on MDF will do the job-that's what i used for my first bench and it served me well for many years. For the top surface, I do prefer MDF or hardboard over plywood because the surface will me much more durable than the wood veneers.

Multiple 3/4" layers will give you a beefier structure that resists pounding and bending, but a few 2×4 braces underneath will probably do the same job. You didn't mention what kind of vise you will use-are you talking about a woodworkers vise or a simple multipurpose utility vise? The woodworkers vise may require a thicker surface where it is bolted, but the entire top doesn't have to be the same.

If you plan to do a lot of woodworking and want dog holes, clamping surfaces, and all the functional features of a classic woodworkers bench, the design and construction should be carefully thought out. If you really are just needing a utility bench, then your decisions should be focused on size, durability, cost, and your construction skills. Don't overthink this-just build it and get on to building projects ON it! Have fun!


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## MikeHGA79

Thanks a lot Jim….very good points all around.

You are right…it's a utility bench for smaller projects…I won't need any fancy design. I think I've decided on using layer of tempered hardboard on top of whatever I decide….so I don't know that using plywood or MDF would really matter.

Thanks!


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## JimDantin

If you use a hardboard top layer, any flat and stable material is fine for the lower layers. Use whatcha got!


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## mark88

3/4" MDF


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## tierraverde

Get a solid core plain door from a big box store and build your frame based on it's size. It's heavy, stable and less expensive than multiple sheets of plywood. Plus, the sides and ends don't need any finishing or extra wood stripping.


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## Timbo

Keep in mind the oak plywood at the borg has a very thin veneer on it and will wear through quickly. I vote for MDF and a 1/4" layer of tempered board that you can replace.


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## JimDantin

We have a Habitat for Humanity "ReStore" in Louisville-great place to find sa;vage doors and other "raw materials" for projects. Support habitat and get bargains. I got a 24" wide solid core door for $10!
Habitat ReStores


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## RvK

My current workbench that I knocked together to use until I can make a "real" bench is topped with OSB on a 2×4 frame, and its held up surprisingly well.


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## Fisch

I AM GETTING READY TO START THE PLANS FOR A NEW 4'X8' WORK BENCH. I WAS THINKING OF USING CONSTRUCTION 2X4 S LAMINATED FACE TO FACE TO MAKE UP THE TOP. I KNOW THIS WOULD BE HEAVY BUT IT WOULD GIVE THE TABLE A LOT OF STABILITY AND A VERY SOLID TOP TO WORK ON.
ALL COMENTS WOULD BE A GREAT HELP !!!!

-------FISCH-----


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## JimDantin

What is the intended use of your workbench? 4' x 8' is rather large and it will be difficult for you to reach the center of it. For stability, a framed box of 2×4's faced with hardboard, plywood or MDF (like a1Jim's) would actually be stiffer

Regarding the laminated 2×4 construction, how do you plan to attach them together? A series of long bolts made from threaded rod will be great if you have drilled holes across the width of the top.

What is your design for the frame and legs? The top will be heavy, of course, but if you want stability, you will need some sturdy structure to keep it from sagging or twisting-probably an additional set of legs along the centerline.

Lastly, do you have a source for STRAIGHT 2×4's? the cheap stuff always has some twist, curve, or curl.


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## Fisch

Thanks Jim. I think I will build the top 5×5,good point. Yes I will use all thread and glue to bind the 2×4s together. I think good quality kiln dryed wood will work fine. I think cross section bracing at mid table highth wil give it good stability.Proberley use a peice of MDF for the top. figure out a border for around the bench latter.
THANKS AGAIN.
-------FISCH------


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## Fisch

Ok I have heard so much about 0 clearance inserts what is the best materiel to build them with, And how do you build them. fOR MY NEW TABLE SAW.
THANKS LJs
---------FISCH-------


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## Fisch

JUST ANOTHER THAUGHT I AM BULDING MY NEW SHOP FROM THE GROUND UP STARTING THE FIRST OF THIS YEAR. WISH ME LUCK ,NEW CAREER/HOBBY. 
MAY THE SCWARTZ BE WITH ME !!!
---------FISCH-------


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## MarkShultz

I am going to build a quick/easy workbench, and am planing on some combo of plywood/mdf top. to make it look nice, is it possible to use a veneered mdf or veneered plywood?

this won't be a heavy use table, just for nice DIY projects over time. will the veneer wear thin too quickly? after wear, will it look any worse than plain mdf? will a good polyurethane coat or 3 make it better?


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## tierraverde

Use the veneered MDF. It's indestructable from a wear point. It's like formica. You can damage it with a heavy cutting tool like anything else, but wear it thin? not a chance.


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## KenBee

I built a work bench frame and use a sheet of 2'x4' 3/4" MDF. I install 8 rows at 6 inches apart of 1/4-20 T-Nuts under the MDF sheet to attach my clamps and self made dogs. The reason I used the MDF in a frame is so it can be replaced after I abuse it with drill holes, saw cuts and general abuse. A sheet of 3/4 MDF is only 10-12 dollars so worrying about marring the work bench top is non-existent as it would be for a nice maple or oak top. Mine is very crude with a bottom shelf to house all my power tools and incorporates two drawers I salvaged from a night stand, but it works as well as your 300-1000 dollar work benches I assure you.


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## Sarit

I just use Melamine particle board (that white plasticy coated one).
Saves me the trouble of getting MDF + hardboard. Yes, it is more expensive to replace (~$30), but realistically how often do you think you'll replace it? Once in 10 years? By that time you'll already be wanting to upgrade the bench anyhow.


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## MarkShultz

If I or someone uses an MDF or lumber core veneer for the top, what type of protective finish to apply?


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## MarkShultz

For those of you who have used hardboard or mdf tops so that you can replace it down the road, how do you attach it to the underlying boards? No glue I assume. Just screws from the bottom?


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## dbray45

My work bench has a 3/4" maple plywood top with 3/4" MDF under it with 3 coats of poly for finish.

The plywood is screwed down around the edges. This way the top is a full 1 1/2" thick and vey solid. I have masonite to put on the top if I am gluing stuff.


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## KenBee

I use #10 countersunk screws at each corner and at 12 +/- inch intervals along the sides and ends. The top lays on 2×4's at exactly 3/4 inch from the top of the frame. When I change the MDF I stagger the screw locations so I wont go into the previous screw holes. What is the point of a finish? It doesn't make it any more workable to my way of thinking and is just an added cost to something that in my case approximately half of which will be a throw away item and the other part used for jigs, etc.


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## MarkShultz

i figured a poly or something over the veneer would help it keep from chipping / tearing. this won't be a heavy use table for me, but i want it to look good.


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## drnick

bench top made up of 3 sheets of 3/4" material and a layer of hardboard….... would using plywood hold up better than mdf when I drill holes for bench dogs?
Is the mdf and a layer of hardboard strong enough for bench dogs?


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## plantdude

The workbench I am building is 4 layers of plywood covered with 1/4" hardboard. it will be a heavy duty bench when it is done. It will be edged with Poplar to cover the plywood edges. I have drilled a double row of bench dog holes and it will have a 10 1/2" Yost quick release front vise and a 7" Yost quick release end vise. I am also putting a tool tray on it. This bench will not be as pretty as a Maple one but it will cost a lot less and it doesn't have to look like a piece of furniture.


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