# Hot Rodding a Harbor Freight Bandsaw.



## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

*Background, and ideas. *

As you may or may not know I am in the process of hot rodding as it were, my Harbor Freight 32208 14" band saw. The work so far has been..

#1. Harbor Freight Universal Mobile Base. 
#2. Craftsman Professional Universal Band Saw Fence. (functional, but certainly NOT great, planning on picking up some small HF C clamps to help it out. The clamps this thing somes with are garbage.)
#3. Harbor Freight riser block kit. Priceless add on for this saw. 
#4. Accura Micro Adjustable Roller Bearing Blade guides.
#5. Acculink link belts.
#6. Timberwolf blades.

These mods have been done for quite a while now, and I have been picking up the design ideas, bits and pieces to move forward with bigger mods. The biggest is my Grizzly tension release lever.

Due to some comments in the Grizzly Tension Release on a HF bandsaw thread, there has been some confusion to which parts to order for the tension release. I have double and triple checked the part #s against the Grizzly G0555 parts list.

33 P0555033A 1 Blade Adj. Screw Assy 7" 
131A P0555131A 1 Fixed Spacer A.
131B P0555131B 1 Fixed Spacer B.
133 P0555133 1 Lever Rod
135 P0555135 1 Bushing
137 P0555137 1 Bracket
140 P0555140 2 Support Plate
141 P0555141 1 Fixed Base

Now the rest of this stuff SHOULD be findable at your local hardware store for a LOT less money than Grizzly sells it.
If you are wanting to go with the Metric to be 100% up to speed with Grizzly, the parts are…
130A PSS05M 1 Setscrew M5-.8×10. (Required to get this size, the Grizz parts are threaded for it!)
130B PSS07M 1 Setscrew M5-.8×5. (Required to get this size, the Grizz parts are threaded for it!)
132 PW04M 1 Flat Washer 10mm
134, PW01M 6 Flat Washer 8MM
136, PSB82M 1 Button Cap Screw M8-1.25×20
138, PB15M 2 Hex Bolt M8-1.25×40
139, P0555139 2 Nylon Nut M8-1.25
142, PLW04M 2 Lock Washer 8MM
143, PB09M 1 Hex Bolt M8-1.25×20

Per the original instructions, if you have SAE tap / die set, you can substitute SAE hardware for the metric stuff. Those components are…
2

```
5/16-18 bolts 1 1/2" 
2
```
 5/15-18 bolts 3/4" 
1

```
5/16-18 button cap screw 3/4" 
7
```
 5/16 flat washers
2

```
5/16 lock washers<br />2
```
 5/16-18 nylon locking nuts

All of the parts for my Grizzly tension release lever from Grizzly are in. I figure since I will be into the bandsaw for this conversion, I am making a couple of other mods at the same time. One of them related to the conversion.

#1. Replace the OEM tension spring with a Carter Cobra Coil. (On order from Woodcraft). Woodcraft item #14497.
#2. Return OEM guide assemblies fitted with cool blocks. The micro adjust on the roller guides is nice and all, but has been a hassle adjustment wise over time. I am wishing I hadn't done this particular mod. Cool Blocks Woodcraft Item #49H02.
#3. "Enhanced lower blade guide dust port" made from 4" S&D, pine, screws, and adhesive sealant. The DC will come into a 4×4x2.5 wye, the 2.5" will go up to the upper blade guide. I have tested the idea by bungee cording the hoses where I want them, and it works GREAT, I just want to set up a more proper mounting / hood system.

Not coming in quite yet, but planned for the next round of upgrades.
#1. Add Harbor Freight #90766 75 Watt Magnetic Base Light. (This will be moved from tool to tool as needed. I rarely need it for the bandsaw, but find lighting around the lathe to be pretty lousy…)
#2. Carter Urethane bandsaw tires. Woodcraft item #144969.
#3. Carter Clean Sweep wheel brush. Yes I can shop build one, but for the cost, I would be more money and LOTS more effort into a shop built brush.
#4. Rockler Safety shut off switch. I have hated the OEM switch mount location of my saw. Always felt it was unsafe. I want to move the switch to the frame, AND provide a large paddle STOP mechanism for the saw. (See the Steel City 14" band saw for ideas). I am planning on not plugging in as other members here have done, but actually wiring the switch to the motor in proper fashion, and eliminating the OEM switch. This will leave a switch plate hole in the stand. No biggie. Home Depot sells metal block off plates, simply use the threaded insert of a wall box spacer to back up the block off plate. Not sure if I can color match the stand, so chances are it will get a couple of coats of gloss black paint and then a couple of coats of clear.

Now I KNOW that if I try to sell it, I will never get out of this saw what I have in it. That's not the point. Unless something major happens to the frame, table, or trunion, I have no intention of getting rid of this saw. It's a good cutting machine, and has been very accepting of the various mods.

For those that are going to ask why not just buy a saw like a Grizz GO555 with the mods already done in the first place. Well aside from the blade guides, fence, and of course the tension release, the Grizzly would need the same mods. Now on sale, with the 20% off coupon, the 32208 runs just under half of what the Grizz does. Not to mention in all honesty, I like tinkering with machines too.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

dbhost said:


> *Background, and ideas. *
> 
> As you may or may not know I am in the process of hot rodding as it were, my Harbor Freight 32208 14" band saw. The work so far has been..
> 
> ...


Good luck with your hot rodding


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## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

dbhost said:


> *Background, and ideas. *
> 
> As you may or may not know I am in the process of hot rodding as it were, my Harbor Freight 32208 14" band saw. The work so far has been..
> 
> ...


As I was reading your blog I was worried about posting a question for fear that you might take it as a sarcastic comment. Then I got to your last paragraph and you answered my question. I don't think this work would be for me, but if you enjoy it and save some money at the same time, that makes a lot more sense. I'm about to try a jointer refurb. That will be my first stab at any type of work on machinery. I look forward to it, but I don't think I'm naturally inclined to do this stuff like you seem to be. Best of luck.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Background, and ideas. *
> 
> As you may or may not know I am in the process of hot rodding as it were, my Harbor Freight 32208 14" band saw. The work so far has been..
> 
> ...


Yeah, well my first career was as an auto / diesel mechanic. I worked on a lot of high end import stuff where parts weren't always available, and even the manuals would tell you, use component XYZ from another model, and modify this way before fittment to vehicle… The Italians were the worst about that…

I am honestly, on the prowl for an 8" jointer to refurb, but the price has to be right…

And I agree, this is NOT a project that will appeal to a lot of folks. For those that don't want to tinker with their saws, the Powermatic 14" with riser block (installed by your dealer) is probably your best bet… Maybe the Steel City 14"...


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

dbhost said:


> *Background, and ideas. *
> 
> As you may or may not know I am in the process of hot rodding as it were, my Harbor Freight 32208 14" band saw. The work so far has been..
> 
> ...


Question: I read on another forum about a HF fence made for this saw.
Do you have any information about it?
I cannot find anything about this HF fence
Thank you.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Background, and ideas. *
> 
> As you may or may not know I am in the process of hot rodding as it were, my Harbor Freight 32208 14" band saw. The work so far has been..
> 
> ...


From what I can tell, both models of band saw fences have dropped out of the Harbor Freight catalog. They used to make a real basic fence, which I have seen a few of, and a "Precision Fence" with micro adjuster and all…

In all honesty, if it weren't for the miserable mounting configuration of the Craftsman, it's not a terrible fence, But… I think you could do the same thing with a piece of angle aluminum and 2 bar clamps….


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Background, and ideas. *
> 
> As you may or may not know I am in the process of hot rodding as it were, my Harbor Freight 32208 14" band saw. The work so far has been..
> 
> ...


Making my comments as a new post to this blog series.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

*All the pieces parts for the tension assembly are in, almost...*

My order from Grizzly is in, and like an idiot I was following the parts list from Grizzly. The parts list shows an INCORRECT number of the following part…

143, PB09M 1 Hex Bolt M8-1.25×20

The actual quantity should be 2. These are the bolts that hold the main assembly to the band saw frame…

Fasteners wise, I was able to source everything from my local Ace Hardware store in their Hillman Fastener bins with no problem. Yes Metric is more expensive than SAE hardware, but since this is an import saw that currently uses metric fasteners, I did not want to switch measurement units in the middle of a project.

Other upgrades that are happening at the same time are…

#1. Cobra Coil tension spring. Since I will have the tension assembly apart, I might as well replace the spring with a better one.
#2. I am pulling the roller blade guides out, and installing cool blocks instead.

If LOML doesn't have other plans for me, I will do the conversion this weekend…


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

dbhost said:


> *All the pieces parts for the tension assembly are in, almost...*
> 
> My order from Grizzly is in, and like an idiot I was following the parts list from Grizzly. The parts list shows an INCORRECT number of the following part…
> 
> ...


Good luck. Where are the pictures??


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

dbhost said:


> *All the pieces parts for the tension assembly are in, almost...*
> 
> My order from Grizzly is in, and like an idiot I was following the parts list from Grizzly. The parts list shows an INCORRECT number of the following part…
> 
> ...


Photos?


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *All the pieces parts for the tension assembly are in, almost...*
> 
> My order from Grizzly is in, and like an idiot I was following the parts list from Grizzly. The parts list shows an INCORRECT number of the following part…
> 
> ...


You wanna see a box of parts?


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *All the pieces parts for the tension assembly are in, almost...*
> 
> My order from Grizzly is in, and like an idiot I was following the parts list from Grizzly. The parts list shows an INCORRECT number of the following part…
> 
> ...












The nuts, bolts, washers came from Ace Hardware. The cool blocks and cobra coil are from Woodcraft, and everything else is from Grizzly..

You may notice that there is now one extra M8-1.25×20 bolt in the batch. I was getting annoyed with the parts count.


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## JohnGray (Oct 6, 2007)

dbhost said:


> *All the pieces parts for the tension assembly are in, almost...*
> 
> My order from Grizzly is in, and like an idiot I was following the parts list from Grizzly. The parts list shows an INCORRECT number of the following part…
> 
> ...


Thanks for the post.
I'd be very interested to see how the blade release works out. 
Do you have a part number for the riser kit from Harbor Freight and how much did it cost??


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *All the pieces parts for the tension assembly are in, almost...*
> 
> My order from Grizzly is in, and like an idiot I was following the parts list from Grizzly. The parts list shows an INCORRECT number of the following part…
> 
> ...


The riser block kit part # is 24536-0ZZA, and it is NOT available through the stores. You must obtain it through Harbor Freight Parts.

I did a write up report and review on BT3Central when I first installed it. (NOTE TO MODS: If I am overstepping my bounds by linking my posts on other forums, please let me know. I just didn't want to have all that copy / paste stuff to do…)

I do not recall exactly the price, but I know it was a couple of bucks cheaper than the Grizzly riser block kit.

FWIW, the response would be the same for almost every band saw / riser block. The blade they ship with is JUNK. Don't even bother installing the thing. Just order a good blade or variety of blades and start off with good ones. You will HATE this saw with the OE blade, and the blade with the riser kit is worse than the OE blade…

Hope that helps!


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

dbhost said:


> *All the pieces parts for the tension assembly are in, almost...*
> 
> My order from Grizzly is in, and like an idiot I was following the parts list from Grizzly. The parts list shows an INCORRECT number of the following part…
> 
> ...


I bought one of this band saw last week for $100.00!

" I am pulling the roller blade guides out, and installing cool blocks instead" 
Why?

What's wrong with the original tension spring?
Thanks


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## JohnGray (Oct 6, 2007)

dbhost said:


> *All the pieces parts for the tension assembly are in, almost...*
> 
> My order from Grizzly is in, and like an idiot I was following the parts list from Grizzly. The parts list shows an INCORRECT number of the following part…
> 
> ...


*b2rtch*, I have the same saw and the cool blocks work well for me, as well as their price compared to the rollers, because they will work with narrower blade and not hurt their teeth. 
And the stock spring works well for me, I think the spring is just a gimmick to sell and make a few extra bucks, and the original will work well unless it is fully collapsed.

*MY 2 CENTS*


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *All the pieces parts for the tension assembly are in, almost...*
> 
> My order from Grizzly is in, and like an idiot I was following the parts list from Grizzly. The parts list shows an INCORRECT number of the following part…
> 
> ...


My original tension spring did NOT like the riser block. I could never get enough tension on the blade. This is honestly one area that the HF saw missed the mark, then again, from what I have read so do the Deltas, and Ridgids and… You get the idea. Some guys do well with them, mostly they are great if you aren't using a riser block…


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## dewald (Aug 24, 2012)

dbhost said:


> *All the pieces parts for the tension assembly are in, almost...*
> 
> My order from Grizzly is in, and like an idiot I was following the parts list from Grizzly. The parts list shows an INCORRECT number of the following part…
> 
> ...


I called HFT about the riser block and they want $118. I can get the Grizzly version for $80. And, someone is selling the Powermatic version on craigslist.

Is there any reason why I shouldn't buy the cheapest one?


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *All the pieces parts for the tension assembly are in, almost...*
> 
> My order from Grizzly is in, and like an idiot I was following the parts list from Grizzly. The parts list shows an INCORRECT number of the following part…
> 
> ...


There are only 2 reasons I can think of to buy the HFT over the others.

#1. No doubt about fit. There are several different sizes. The low end grizz riser is reported to fit perfect, I am not sure.
#2. Cosmetics. Only the HFT Riser will be painted a matching green.


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

dbhost said:


> *All the pieces parts for the tension assembly are in, almost...*
> 
> My order from Grizzly is in, and like an idiot I was following the parts list from Grizzly. The parts list shows an INCORRECT number of the following part…
> 
> ...


"I called HFT about the riser block and they want $118" 
try to call them again to speak to someone else.
I paid far less than that for my kit


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## dewald (Aug 24, 2012)

dbhost said:


> *All the pieces parts for the tension assembly are in, almost...*
> 
> My order from Grizzly is in, and like an idiot I was following the parts list from Grizzly. The parts list shows an INCORRECT number of the following part…
> 
> ...


I already ordered the Grizzly version from Amazon but I will call HFT again on Monday for the heck of it.

I called HFT on Wednesday, gave them the part number and she said, "that's a 6" riser block," I said yes. Then she said $118. I can't tell you if that was plus freight or freight included because I just shut down and said no thanks when she said $118.


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

dbhost said:


> *All the pieces parts for the tension assembly are in, almost...*
> 
> My order from Grizzly is in, and like an idiot I was following the parts list from Grizzly. The parts list shows an INCORRECT number of the following part…
> 
> ...


I believe that I paid around $40 two year ago


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *All the pieces parts for the tension assembly are in, almost...*
> 
> My order from Grizzly is in, and like an idiot I was following the parts list from Grizzly. The parts list shows an INCORRECT number of the following part…
> 
> ...


Check again with HF, that price tag seems terribly high. I paid about $50.00 3 or so years ago with shipping. There is no good reason it would have more than doubled in price… Something is wrong.


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## dewald (Aug 24, 2012)

dbhost said:


> *All the pieces parts for the tension assembly are in, almost...*
> 
> My order from Grizzly is in, and like an idiot I was following the parts list from Grizzly. The parts list shows an INCORRECT number of the following part…
> 
> ...


I called HFT again and I can tell you it was an exercise in frustration. Why is it when the person answering the phone tells you upfront that he is ready to give you great customer service the chances of receiving good customer service are suddenly reduced to almost zero?

I'll start with the result to spare those wanting to skip the non-essentials and save time. HFT has discontinued this band saw and the manufacturer is no longer supporting the item. The Riser Block Kit item# 22436 last sold for $52.21 is not in stock and will never be restocked. This is where the customer support representative wanted to end the discussion, which is frustrating. I decided to press on and managed to get some help that should have been freely offered rather than glossed over. I told the rep I need the part or I intend to return the item to the store, which still has the item in stock (I was bluffing. I bought the band saw used and can't return it). After this, the rep said I could call technical assistance and get information about alternative parts.

When I called previously I was told the band saw was a discontinued item but was quoted $118 for the part and that is where that discussion ended. I asked the rep for an explanation of the inconsistency and he didn't give one.

I decided to call technical assistance to see what alternatives HFT recommends. I waited on hold for 20 minutes and then a recorded message gave me an email address and said they were too busy to take my call.

Since I called HFT twice and got 2 different answers I suppose I can call 5 more times to receive 5 more different answers. Since I already ordered the part from an alternative source, I'm done with HFT.

I have ordered the part from Grizzly through Amazon. The part cost was $80 plus $14 freight but Amazon owed me a $10 freight credit so I am paying $4 for freight. I probably should have ordered directly from Grizzly and combined the Riser Block order with the tensioner mod order but I wanted to get something done and wasn't ready to order the tensioner mod parts. Plus, by adding the Riser Block to an Amazon order, I was able to make a $500 order, which got me 1 year to pay with no interest.


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## dewald (Aug 24, 2012)

dbhost said:


> *All the pieces parts for the tension assembly are in, almost...*
> 
> My order from Grizzly is in, and like an idiot I was following the parts list from Grizzly. The parts list shows an INCORRECT number of the following part…
> 
> ...


I have 2 updates.

1st update:
I called HFT again because I noticed the part number the last representative gave me doesn't match the number from dbhost. This time I gave the representative dbhost's part# and he said the part price is $118.53 plus $6.99 freight and he said the part is in stock and ready to ship. I told him I just called for a price on part# 22436 and was quoted $52.21 and asked if this was a different part. He said it's the same part but is discontinued and can't be ordered. I asked why the same part with a different number now costs so much more money. He said the manufacturer sets the price and he didn't know why the price is so high.

So, if you want to pay $118.53 plus $6.99 freight, you can order the part from HFT. Make sure you have the part# 24536 or you might not get any help. To get service from HFT you need more information than the part numbers printed in the tool manual.

Update #2:
I received my Grizzly Riser Block from Amazon and boy was that quick. I will post information about the Grizzly Riser Block after I get a chance to look it over so others can decide where to order the part.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *All the pieces parts for the tension assembly are in, almost...*
> 
> My order from Grizzly is in, and like an idiot I was following the parts list from Grizzly. The parts list shows an INCORRECT number of the following part…
> 
> ...


Dewald,

For other folks knowledge can you post up the following information.

#1. The model # of your Central Machinery band saw. 
#2. Which model Grizzly band saw did you order the riser for? I have heard the riser for the G0555 series does not fit, but the one for the G0580 does… I don't know for sure…

Just FWIW, and this is my personal opinion, that I think the mismatched green of the block itself would look wierd. If it were me.. I would make sure the thing fits, and them maybe paint it black…


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## dewald (Aug 24, 2012)

dbhost said:


> *All the pieces parts for the tension assembly are in, almost...*
> 
> My order from Grizzly is in, and like an idiot I was following the parts list from Grizzly. The parts list shows an INCORRECT number of the following part…
> 
> ...


I can tell you I have the Cetral Machinery 32208 and I have the Grizzly riser block h3051 for the Grizzly G0555. I hope I have the right one.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *All the pieces parts for the tension assembly are in, almost...*
> 
> My order from Grizzly is in, and like an idiot I was following the parts list from Grizzly. The parts list shows an INCORRECT number of the following part…
> 
> ...


Please let us know about fitment.


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## dewald (Aug 24, 2012)

dbhost said:


> *All the pieces parts for the tension assembly are in, almost...*
> 
> My order from Grizzly is in, and like an idiot I was following the parts list from Grizzly. The parts list shows an INCORRECT number of the following part…
> 
> ...


I can already see without beginning the install that I have a problem. The Grizzly guidepost is too big. Everything else looks ok but Grizzly's guidepost is bigger in diameter and it has an inverted L shaped notch about where the 32208 has a straight notch. I thought I was careful but obviously, I was not.


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

dbhost said:


> *All the pieces parts for the tension assembly are in, almost...*
> 
> My order from Grizzly is in, and like an idiot I was following the parts list from Grizzly. The parts list shows an INCORRECT number of the following part…
> 
> ...


This band saw is still on sale at my local HF store.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *All the pieces parts for the tension assembly are in, almost...*
> 
> My order from Grizzly is in, and like an idiot I was following the parts list from Grizzly. The parts list shows an INCORRECT number of the following part…
> 
> ...


dewald, sorry to hear that. I looked at the reviews on Amazon for the riser kit you ordered, and they report the same issue you do. I do agree that $118.00 for the HF riser kit is steep, but at least you can be assured it will fit with no hassles. You have a couple of choices now. #1. Keep the Grizzly kit you bought, and find a way to cobble it together to work. Will likely never be 100% right, but you can get close enough. #2. Return the model you got, and get the one from Grizzly for the G0580. Again I do NOT guarantee it fits, only that I have heard that it does. The rumor is it also fits the Ridgid as well. or #3. Return the model you got, swallow your pride, and pony up the extra bucks for the HF official version which you know will fit with no hassles other than it ships with a lousy blade, but they all do… Having said that, from what I have seen on the HF site, it looks like they are dropping the 14" band saw. A pity too, I really do like my saw.

Bert, that must be NOS or their web site is getting wonky. Lots of their better stuff is going away from the web site though. No more 6" or 8" jointers either…


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

*The tension release, tension spring, and cool blocks are on!*

Okay boys and girls, the tension release, cool blocks, and Cobra Coil are done.

All the pieces and parts required for the upgrade.









The set of cool blocks in the OEM blade guide assemblies replaces the aftermarket Accura blade guide assemblies. The Accuras were nice, but were a pain to reset every time I swapped blades.









The completed tension release assembly in the released position.









The completed tension release assembly in the tensioned position.









The tension release assembly was pretty straight forward just following the originally linked Photo HOWTO and using the Grizzly parts list as a guide as to how it should go together.

The hardest part of the entire process was adjusting it once it went together…

One step that I feel is VERY important that the originator of this mod did not mention in the tutorial, is that once you find the centers of where you want your holes, you really MUST center punch the spot you want your bit to drill to prevent the drill bit from skating on you.

Operation of the tensioner is far smoother than I would have expected, and it has not yet wanted to back off on me which is very nice.

I believe next is the work light and dust collection upgrades….


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *The tension release, tension spring, and cool blocks are on!*
> 
> Okay boys and girls, the tension release, cool blocks, and Cobra Coil are done.
> 
> ...


I just ordered new pulleys and a link belt for the TS. No question about it, I like to tinker with the machines…. I have some plans for the TS including dust collection, a very novel power switch, guard, and splitter. We'll see how it goes, not what everybody else has done. I do not find any joy in throwing a lot of money into first class machines, I would rather tinker with the…....handicapped ones (-:

Working on the benchtop downdraft table, gad….it is tough to drill mediocre oak ply, even with a fortsner bit. Likes to chip out. Not important fortunately. I will fill it in and cover it with black goo. Just using left overs and reclaimed wood for a good share of the project. Will try to make it look pretty for its pictures, little spit on the hair, sit it up straight, get it to smile….....

I am going to have to try Grizzly, Harbor Freight or such for my band saw upgrade when that comes….....hopefully a long time from now, no time to tinker with it now….....so I am watching you very closely…..... you are under surveillance.

Thanks for the blog…..........


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## Cato (May 1, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *The tension release, tension spring, and cool blocks are on!*
> 
> Okay boys and girls, the tension release, cool blocks, and Cobra Coil are done.
> 
> ...


Dbhost- I have a Central Machinery bandsaw left to me from my dad. I will have to back up and review your upgrade from the beginning. I hardly ever use the thing for two reasons. One, it screeches terribly when I turn it on, so it is probably way out of adjustment. Two, I have practically nil knowledge of how to use or adjust a bandsaw.

Maybe this winter once I get my front section of the shop squared away I can get back into the room with the bandsaw and try and learn a little about it, so thanks for posting this blog it will prove helpful to me I am sure. Plus now I know someone that I can pester with questions!! Sorry dude you are it!!


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *The tension release, tension spring, and cool blocks are on!*
> 
> Okay boys and girls, the tension release, cool blocks, and Cobra Coil are done.
> 
> ...


Cato,

Go to Wood Magazine's Wood Vision (videos) Bandsaw Tips and Techniques. There are some great videos there to show you what to do with your band saw.

The screeching concerns me though. If this thing is pretty old, it may have dry bearings. Lubing the bearings should help, if that is the issue….


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *The tension release, tension spring, and cool blocks are on!*
> 
> Okay boys and girls, the tension release, cool blocks, and Cobra Coil are done.
> 
> ...


Oh yeah, for what it's worth, for those that might not recall… This is what a HF bandsaw looks like from behind WITHOUT the Grizz Tensioner…


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## ironhat (Jan 24, 2010)

dbhost said:


> *The tension release, tension spring, and cool blocks are on!*
> 
> Okay boys and girls, the tension release, cool blocks, and Cobra Coil are done.
> 
> ...


Hey db, I too understand your reasoning for souping up your saw. I bought a Ridgid at a Cummins Tool sale. They were certified re-sellers of their re-furbished equipiment and I got it for $150, so, there was some room to spend on the upgrades. The tension release is the next on my list. I can't tell from the picture how it mounts. Would you please let me know what the critical points are and the critical measurement/s that would my saw would be required to match? BTW, Griz didn't even direct me to the part (I stated that I couldn't find it) but said that they couldn't guarantee fit because the saws are made by a different manufacturer. Oh well, when and if you have time let me know by PM, post here or e-mail.
Thanks,
Chiz


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *The tension release, tension spring, and cool blocks are on!*
> 
> Okay boys and girls, the tension release, cool blocks, and Cobra Coil are done.
> 
> ...


I went with measurements from a posting on BT3gallery.cpu-etc.com that appears to be a dead link now… I will have to go out and measure it up… I will get the info to you as soon as I can…


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## Eternal (Nov 14, 2013)

dbhost said:


> *The tension release, tension spring, and cool blocks are on!*
> 
> Okay boys and girls, the tension release, cool blocks, and Cobra Coil are done.
> 
> ...


Is there any way to get the pictures back up on this? I am very interested in doing this to my HF saw but would really like to see what has been done. Thanks for sharing!


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## juniorjock (Feb 3, 2008)

dbhost said:


> *The tension release, tension spring, and cool blocks are on!*
> 
> Okay boys and girls, the tension release, cool blocks, and Cobra Coil are done.
> 
> ...


Try sending the OP a PM. I'm sure he'll do what he can to get the images to you.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *The tension release, tension spring, and cool blocks are on!*
> 
> Okay boys and girls, the tension release, cool blocks, and Cobra Coil are done.
> 
> ...


I had the images on Webshots before they went bad.. it will take a week or so to find them, please stand by.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *The tension release, tension spring, and cool blocks are on!*
> 
> Okay boys and girls, the tension release, cool blocks, and Cobra Coil are done.
> 
> ...


Eternal,

I haven't forgotten about the photos. I am still digging through old hard disks. Probably have to host the images on Google or something…


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *The tension release, tension spring, and cool blocks are on!*
> 
> Okay boys and girls, the tension release, cool blocks, and Cobra Coil are done.
> 
> ...


I still haven't forgotten. I am just having trouble finding the files…

Aside from the pieces / parts photo, which is the one I think I know how to find, I can retake them, but my shop is a disaster right now and I won't have an opportunity to try until at least after Jan 1…


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

*Dust port mods, mostly complete...*

I know, I have been kind of quiet lately. Not that I haven't had projects, but they haven't been woodworking related for the last several weeks…. (Do you guys want to hear about me setting up a tuner with custom tune and cold air intake on my pickup?)

There is one bit of woodworking that has gotten at least reasonably complete and tested. The band saw dust collection upgrade…

You see the Harbor Freight band saws ship with, well nearly the same port that the Ridgid, and a few others do, which is a 1-7/8" ID port just at the front of the lower wheel guard, just under the blade guides…

My modification consists of the following materials.

1' of 4" S&D pipe, cut on one end in a V so that the pipe makes two points that meet at 90 degrees.
1 6" chunk of scrap 4×4, cut one end at 45 degrees, and a relief sanded in to allow tight mounting of the S&D pipe.
4 1-1/2" wood screws.
4" DC hose.
2.5" DC hose
Screw in 2.5" hose end adapter
12" zip ties.
4" and 2.5" wire clamps.
4×4x2.5" branch wye.

Pics are forthcoming once it is all tested, but basically I simply created a rest for the S&D, mounted it to the block, mounted the block tot he wheel guard, ran the 4" to the Wye, ran the 2.5" from the Wye to the upper blade guide and zip tied the hose to the guide post as close as I could get it to, without interfering with the blade guide assembly. The other 4" port goes to the DC…

I have not had a chance to test this yet, but have seen a setup identical to what I am doing. Yes MOST of the dust goes DOWN with the blade, but the upper guide port is to get that dust that gets missed on the down side…

Now all that is left is the wheel brush, poly tires, and work light….


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Dust port mods, mostly complete...*
> 
> I know, I have been kind of quiet lately. Not that I haven't had projects, but they haven't been woodworking related for the last several weeks…. (Do you guys want to hear about me setting up a tuner with custom tune and cold air intake on my pickup?)
> 
> ...


*David*:
Noted your absence, but assumed it was other duties. My daughter, son-in-law, two grandchildren, (and one more in about a month) are down viisiting for five days. No shop time until they are gone. But everyone congregates in my office(den?) which is quite large. The kids play with Legos, that are strewn all over the floor. They call my office the "playroom". So I do get a little computer time.

I am making some woodworking textures, since I couldn't find any good ones in the cloud. I'll probably upload them when they are done. Don't hold your breath, though, they are kinda fussy.

Good luck with the saw, good luck with the truck…..................


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## dkirtley (Mar 11, 2010)

dbhost said:


> *Dust port mods, mostly complete...*
> 
> I know, I have been kind of quiet lately. Not that I haven't had projects, but they haven't been woodworking related for the last several weeks…. (Do you guys want to hear about me setting up a tuner with custom tune and cold air intake on my pickup?)
> 
> ...


I went with the roller bearing guide inserts on mine. A bit noisier but sure does help.

Did you get the other tension spring yet? Was it worth the upgrade? I am a bad boy and and usually leave mine tensioned. I just installed the riser block a while back and still getting used to the longer blades. I haven't done any tuning yet since the riser. This is the first 105" blade and it was drifting more than I like but I was pretty conservative on the tension.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Dust port mods, mostly complete...*
> 
> I know, I have been kind of quiet lately. Not that I haven't had projects, but they haven't been woodworking related for the last several weeks…. (Do you guys want to hear about me setting up a tuner with custom tune and cold air intake on my pickup?)
> 
> ...


Yeah, I have the tension spring in it. A Carter Cobra Coil. It REALLY helped out a LOT as far as actually giving enough resistance to tension the blade…


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

*Carter Clean Sweep and MLCS Safety switch installed, mostly..*

My MLCS Safety switch came in today, and mind you, the OEM switches on these band saws have been a point of contention, mostly due to location for me, since day one… So at the very least, I installed the switch mechanically, if not quite yet electrically… The electrical connections will have to wait, there isn't enough cable attached to the motor to make the run out and back around to the upper post. Yes part of my reason for this install is to get the switch in roughly the same location as the Grizzly G0555 band saws, but with the giant STOP paddle arrangement. I figure sometime this weekend I may carve enough time out to rewire this and install a blank electrical cover plate where the OEM switch goes…

While I was in to the saw, I finally got up off my backside and installed the Carter Clean Sweep as well, as part of the install I gave the tires both a good cleaning… Hopefully this works as well as it looks like it should…

About the only things left to do to this band saw is urethane tires, but the OE ones are holding up well, so no need yet, and a magnetic work lamp, that I can move over to the lathe or drill press when needed…

This band saw has been a fun project in itself.


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## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Carter Clean Sweep and MLCS Safety switch installed, mostly..*
> 
> My MLCS Safety switch came in today, and mind you, the OEM switches on these band saws have been a point of contention, mostly due to location for me, since day one… So at the very least, I installed the switch mechanically, if not quite yet electrically… The electrical connections will have to wait, there isn't enough cable attached to the motor to make the run out and back around to the upper post. Yes part of my reason for this install is to get the switch in roughly the same location as the Grizzly G0555 band saws, but with the giant STOP paddle arrangement. I figure sometime this weekend I may carve enough time out to rewire this and install a blank electrical cover plate where the OEM switch goes…
> 
> ...


That MLCS switch is a sweety. I have another for my router table. The Carter clean sweep works very well, but I still want to add a DC port. What hp motor do you have on yours?


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Carter Clean Sweep and MLCS Safety switch installed, mostly..*
> 
> My MLCS Safety switch came in today, and mind you, the OEM switches on these band saws have been a point of contention, mostly due to location for me, since day one… So at the very least, I installed the switch mechanically, if not quite yet electrically… The electrical connections will have to wait, there isn't enough cable attached to the motor to make the run out and back around to the upper post. Yes part of my reason for this install is to get the switch in roughly the same location as the Grizzly G0555 band saws, but with the giant STOP paddle arrangement. I figure sometime this weekend I may carve enough time out to rewire this and install a blank electrical cover plate where the OEM switch goes…
> 
> ...


It's just …. fun to give your power tools the love and attention they deserve


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Carter Clean Sweep and MLCS Safety switch installed, mostly..*
> 
> My MLCS Safety switch came in today, and mind you, the OEM switches on these band saws have been a point of contention, mostly due to location for me, since day one… So at the very least, I installed the switch mechanically, if not quite yet electrically… The electrical connections will have to wait, there isn't enough cable attached to the motor to make the run out and back around to the upper post. Yes part of my reason for this install is to get the switch in roughly the same location as the Grizzly G0555 band saws, but with the giant STOP paddle arrangement. I figure sometime this weekend I may carve enough time out to rewire this and install a blank electrical cover plate where the OEM switch goes…
> 
> ...


My band saw has the OEM 1HP motor, I am hoping to swap it out this summer for a Dayton 1.5 HP motor I dug up from a friend and had rebuilt.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Carter Clean Sweep and MLCS Safety switch installed, mostly..*
> 
> My MLCS Safety switch came in today, and mind you, the OEM switches on these band saws have been a point of contention, mostly due to location for me, since day one… So at the very least, I installed the switch mechanically, if not quite yet electrically… The electrical connections will have to wait, there isn't enough cable attached to the motor to make the run out and back around to the upper post. Yes part of my reason for this install is to get the switch in roughly the same location as the Grizzly G0555 band saws, but with the giant STOP paddle arrangement. I figure sometime this weekend I may carve enough time out to rewire this and install a blank electrical cover plate where the OEM switch goes…
> 
> ...


*Neil*
Re love and attention, your miter saw may be a swinger, but don't plant a kiss on the moving parts…......in an impassioned moment…......(-:

Jim


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Carter Clean Sweep and MLCS Safety switch installed, mostly..*
> 
> My MLCS Safety switch came in today, and mind you, the OEM switches on these band saws have been a point of contention, mostly due to location for me, since day one… So at the very least, I installed the switch mechanically, if not quite yet electrically… The electrical connections will have to wait, there isn't enough cable attached to the motor to make the run out and back around to the upper post. Yes part of my reason for this install is to get the switch in roughly the same location as the Grizzly G0555 band saws, but with the giant STOP paddle arrangement. I figure sometime this weekend I may carve enough time out to rewire this and install a blank electrical cover plate where the OEM switch goes…
> 
> ...


OUCH! That's just a mean thought Jim!


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Carter Clean Sweep and MLCS Safety switch installed, mostly..*
> 
> My MLCS Safety switch came in today, and mind you, the OEM switches on these band saws have been a point of contention, mostly due to location for me, since day one… So at the very least, I installed the switch mechanically, if not quite yet electrically… The electrical connections will have to wait, there isn't enough cable attached to the motor to make the run out and back around to the upper post. Yes part of my reason for this install is to get the switch in roughly the same location as the Grizzly G0555 band saws, but with the giant STOP paddle arrangement. I figure sometime this weekend I may carve enough time out to rewire this and install a blank electrical cover plate where the OEM switch goes…
> 
> ...


Is the Dayton a one-for-one swap, far as you know ? Switch, RPM, etc., etc., etc.

Jim ? I hope you can understand my typing. Like our President, I recently suffered a fairly nasty cut to my lip … that … um …. I'd rather NOT talk about ;-)


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Carter Clean Sweep and MLCS Safety switch installed, mostly..*
> 
> My MLCS Safety switch came in today, and mind you, the OEM switches on these band saws have been a point of contention, mostly due to location for me, since day one… So at the very least, I installed the switch mechanically, if not quite yet electrically… The electrical connections will have to wait, there isn't enough cable attached to the motor to make the run out and back around to the upper post. Yes part of my reason for this install is to get the switch in roughly the same location as the Grizzly G0555 band saws, but with the giant STOP paddle arrangement. I figure sometime this weekend I may carve enough time out to rewire this and install a blank electrical cover plate where the OEM switch goes…
> 
> ...


Neil,

The MLCS switch is configurable for 110 / 220, the frame size is the same, and the RPM on both I believe is 1750, I know the Dayton is 1750, and I THINK the HF bandsaw is 1750… If not, the Dayton will make one whopper of a motor for my as yet to be built wide drum sander…


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Carter Clean Sweep and MLCS Safety switch installed, mostly..*
> 
> My MLCS Safety switch came in today, and mind you, the OEM switches on these band saws have been a point of contention, mostly due to location for me, since day one… So at the very least, I installed the switch mechanically, if not quite yet electrically… The electrical connections will have to wait, there isn't enough cable attached to the motor to make the run out and back around to the upper post. Yes part of my reason for this install is to get the switch in roughly the same location as the Grizzly G0555 band saws, but with the giant STOP paddle arrangement. I figure sometime this weekend I may carve enough time out to rewire this and install a blank electrical cover plate where the OEM switch goes…
> 
> ...


I don't know what that motor cost you, but the 1.5 hp motors in my shop, the Delta TS and the Delta DC sure are good. But there is definitely a difference between the two, with the DC motor probably being the more powerful. That DC was an issue until I put it on 240V. So, even between induction motors with the same HP rating, there are apparently power differences, which I equate with amperage draw. As I recall, the DC had more stringent requirements than the TS for the breaker, etc. Not at home, so I can't check it out. But the effects were noticeable around the house (had an electrician go through things since then).


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Carter Clean Sweep and MLCS Safety switch installed, mostly..*
> 
> My MLCS Safety switch came in today, and mind you, the OEM switches on these band saws have been a point of contention, mostly due to location for me, since day one… So at the very least, I installed the switch mechanically, if not quite yet electrically… The electrical connections will have to wait, there isn't enough cable attached to the motor to make the run out and back around to the upper post. Yes part of my reason for this install is to get the switch in roughly the same location as the Grizzly G0555 band saws, but with the giant STOP paddle arrangement. I figure sometime this weekend I may carve enough time out to rewire this and install a blank electrical cover plate where the OEM switch goes…
> 
> ...


Yeah, not sure if I mentioned it anywhere, but I do want to run 220V to the shop, and convert the band saw, well honestly, convert as much as I can to 220V. The HF DC and air conditioner won't go, so I will still need the 3 @ 20 amp 110V circuits to keep everything humming along nicely, but long term goals are…

#1. Cabinet style table saw with 3HP 220V, MUST HAVE A RIVING KNIFE. I am big time sold on these. I have had kickback with regular splitter equipped saws, where similar situations with my cheapo Ryobi riving knife saw easily dealt with… Money being no issue I would love a Saw Stop 3HP PCS, but I might end up in divorce court over that one… I have a few bills get taken care of, maybe as soon as debt is gone, and a few bucks are in the bank… The other, and more likely candidate is the Grizzly G0691… Perhaps an older U.S. built Unisaw if I can fit a BORK to it…

#2. Convert my HF Bandsaw to 1.5 HP 220V.

With these upgrades, that means I will have the lathe, drill press, and dust collector on 110V, as well as the bench top tools.

I need to run the added power anyway before I can complete the band saw conversion… I have no 220V in the shop yet… And not anywhere near enough 110V…


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Carter Clean Sweep and MLCS Safety switch installed, mostly..*
> 
> My MLCS Safety switch came in today, and mind you, the OEM switches on these band saws have been a point of contention, mostly due to location for me, since day one… So at the very least, I installed the switch mechanically, if not quite yet electrically… The electrical connections will have to wait, there isn't enough cable attached to the motor to make the run out and back around to the upper post. Yes part of my reason for this install is to get the switch in roughly the same location as the Grizzly G0555 band saws, but with the giant STOP paddle arrangement. I figure sometime this weekend I may carve enough time out to rewire this and install a blank electrical cover plate where the OEM switch goes…
> 
> ...


I have done away with kickback on my TS, mostly with feather boards and my Vega finger saver (essentially a fence mounted sliding push block that delivers downward and forward force). And I use the stock guard/splitter whenever it is possible, and it has pawls. Haven't seen a hint of kickback since I hot rodded the saw, with new fence and all, and started planning every cut with safety in mind. A rapid on/off guard is essential to safety, I think, and as I recall your shark guard meets that requirement. My guard goes on and off in less than 30 seconds, with just simple common sense mods. And I use the super sled a lot, and of course the RAS does most crosscut. This old contractor's saw has been a good saw to learn on, and right now it performs well. Just needs better dust control which is already in process.

We are looking at buying a second house here in La Conner, a town we have haunted for years. Real estate prices have bottomed out here, so there are good values. But if I had a house here I would want a shop in it of some sort. If I buy another saw, it would indeed have a riving knife, and the SawStop might be my choice. But a Grizzly show room is down in Everett, isn't it? Be tempting to buy Grizzly. But, I am not there yet.

Any place you can use 220 I would do it. Especially important since your DC is 110 only. Another thing you might research is upgrading the motor on your DC…... time, money, and mechanics allowing. Is that DC drawing 20 amps? Then you could use the old DC motor for some other home built tool. Since I put the big saws and the DC on 220 haven't seen any signs of overload. Leaves the 110 for other tools.

Since Sherie is out doing a little laundry…...I am just sitting around being overly verbose….......oh well.

Later….....

Jim


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

*The MLCS Safety switch pics...*

I know, LJs LOVE photos, so here goes nuthin'

The MLCS Safety power tool switch mounted up to the upright post on the Central Machinery 14" 4 speed band saw…









And the MLCS Router table switch mounted up to the BT's wide table legs. This view REALLY shows how badly I need to redo the extension wing top… This was a learning experience top to say the least! I do have a plan for the redo though and it should go off a LOT better this time!


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *The MLCS Safety switch pics...*
> 
> I know, LJs LOVE photos, so here goes nuthin'
> 
> ...


Awww…......being a switch officionado…........remember my TS switch…....working perfectly by the way….....I appreciate the technical details. I am sure you are binary at heart, like I, except when hexing…..does anyone use octo these days? On…..off….....binary precision. OCD delight…....no gray zones….....

Gives me a warm fuzzy feeling…........(-:

On vacation still…....can you tell?

Got through the first shop video today, got interrupted…......but the second tomorrow…........

............you might be interested in some construction details of my new base for my project table top.
It will be stout, and I suspect heavy, and cheap…......and did I say…...cheap!!!
No treated lumber…...studs and some cheap plywood…........

Later…....

Jim


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

*By popular request, the measurements!*

I have received several requests for the measurements on where to drill for the bolt holes. Now due to the lawsuit happy nature of the society we live in, a little disclaimer, a EULA of sorts.

End User License Agreement for dbhosts advice. My advice is free, and worth every single penny you paid for it. I am merely telling you what I did that worked for me, in my individual experience. By your reading my entries, you accept full and unconditional responsibility for any and all consequences of acting on any thing I have written down. Furthermore, you agree to hold dbhost faultless for any damages real or imaginary that may happen due to either properly, or improperly acting on his advice. Simply put, if you screw up, it's on you, not me.

Now having said that, and covering my backside appropriately shall we continue?

My measurements are based on my Central Machinery #32208 14" 4 speed woodcutting band saw. Yours may differ, take careful measurements and make sure everything lines up. I have heard rumors, and casual observation seems to flesh this out that other 14" "C Frame" band saws are more or less the same. If you are modding a different saw, my measurements may not apply to your situation.

As has been illustrated in countless previous photos, the frame on the 14" band saw comes up in 2 arms that the tension mechanism rides in. The tension release lever mounts to this, and these are the arms I refer to here. If you have ANY uncertainty of what I am talking about, ask me and I will try to clarify what I mean.

The center points of the upper bolt holes are 10mm in from the left side of each arm, and 10mm down from the top of each arm. Once marked with a pencil, a good sharp, and HARD center punch is then used to dimple the cast iron, this helps keep the drill bit aligned and prevent bit walking.

The depth of the holes is somewhat critical, as they intrude into the channel the adjuster mechanism rides in. Drill until the bit just breaks the inside surface of this channel. Clean up any burrs with a long needle file to insure smooth operation of your tension assembly.

The left side lower bolt center is marked after the top is drilled and tapped, and the bracket is used to determine the center distance. I simple used a sharpie to mark the hole, and find the center.

Once the holes are drilled, and tapped, clean any thread cutting lubricant out of the threads with an evaporating solvent such as brake cleaner or similar. During assembly you will want to utilize thread locking compound, and the presence of the threading lube will interfere with that.

Hopefully I have given you enough information to keep you going in the right direction. Good luck with your band saw mods / builds… Have fun, and be safe!


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## ptweedy (Feb 9, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *By popular request, the measurements!*
> 
> I have received several requests for the measurements on where to drill for the bolt holes. Now due to the lawsuit happy nature of the society we live in, a little disclaimer, a EULA of sorts.
> 
> ...


what are you talking about? You could at least tell us what you are doing or building as a addon. A picture would be great as well. thanks for the consideration of these questions. Phil


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *By popular request, the measurements!*
> 
> I have received several requests for the measurements on where to drill for the bolt holes. Now due to the lawsuit happy nature of the society we live in, a little disclaimer, a EULA of sorts.
> 
> ...


Here is a link to his previous blog posts about the conversion.
Hot Rod


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *By popular request, the measurements!*
> 
> I have received several requests for the measurements on where to drill for the bolt holes. Now due to the lawsuit happy nature of the society we live in, a little disclaimer, a EULA of sorts.
> 
> ...


ptweedy,

Sorry if my entry didn't make any sense to you. You see, this entry is #7 in a series, this is in reference to the Grizzly G0555 tension release assembly install on a Harbor Freight #32208 band saw. at the top of the page there are navigation links to take you back to my earlier posts in this thread, if you have any interest in this subject, please go back to the first entry and read up to date…


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

*Long term update. Taking care of unfinished mods.*

So I am back at it doing some maintenance to this old saw. Not super old for many, but it has some years on it now.

Not everyting worked out as I had planned.

#1. The link belt, is still in my toolbox never installed. Just never felt the need as the OE belts smoothed out somewhat quickly. Honestly, probably won't bother with the link belts until the OE belts die a horrible death.
#2. The accura micro adjustable roller guides didn't pan out at first. I was trying to install them at they were. The problem is the set I got, cheaply admittedly, were sized for probably a Delta or something, and the upper guide just didn't fit, the hole for the post was just WAY too big. And when I got creative enough to solve the fitment problem, adjusting the guides in / out with the micro adjuster wheel was a pain in the butt. I got to looking for roller guides again after just not liking using cool blocks for all these years, and discovered Accura guides again, but this time it is just the yoke part of the guide assembly. So I just pulled the yoke with the rollers off of the micro adjustables, and sure enough, it was a direct fit. I then reinstalled the lower, and wham! I have roller bearing blade guides on the saw now! 
#3. That old Crafstman universal band saw fence is ticking me off like you wouldn't believe. It holds on with some badly designed C clamps. I figure I will find a way to temporarily clamp these in place , and get behind the mount points with a slim sharpie, and mark the mount hole locations, then unclamp, drill the holes, if needed tap the bolt holes, or find the right thread and then bolt it together. Easy enough. 
#4. The original tires are starting to crack, so I ordered a set of urethane tires for this thing. 
#5. The MLCS Safety switch is physically installed on the upright post where it belongs, but I never got around to wiring it up. I guess after 12 years, it might be time to do it… .

These past few updates just kind of stayed on my to do list as I was too busy actually using the saw. I guess I should complete the mods to it and THEN call it good…

The 4" dust port at the lower blade guard does work okay, not great, just okay. I am seriously considering shaping and installing a 2.5" dust port for that position, AND a 2.5" to be cut into the lower blade guard, and then connect them together into a single 2.5×2.5×4 wye and go to the dust collector… That should give me better dust collection as most of the dust spews below the table…


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