# Shellac flakes or transtint? What weight shellac?



## mtx77 (Nov 14, 2012)

Im trying to match a new oak skirt to an old oak tabletop. The oil stain I was using was close, but needed an amber tint to it to really match. I got some amber transtint to add to Zinsser sealer which I believe is 2lb blonde shellac.

Rocker just got in 2oz orange flake kits. Im assuming I can just add orange flake directly to zinsser sealcoat for an amber tint.

Is there an advantage to using transtint or the shellac flakes?

Should i be thinning down the shellac to 1lb?

When I tried just adding transtint to the shellac the color was ok, but on the grain itd get a bit orangey. Im thinking maybe I need to put down regular blonde shellac, then amber? And its better to put down a few thin shellac coats rather than 1 thick one right?


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## Purrmaster (Sep 1, 2012)

If the Rockler orange flakes you're talking about are the same ones I bought from Rockler, please be aware that the orange shellac is *not* dewaxed. If the shellac is going to be your top coat, that's fine. But if you plan to put something over it you may have problems getting another finish to stick. Just about anything sticks to dewaxed shellac but not to waxed.

I'd start with a 3 pound cut. If it's too thick you can easily pour in some more alcohol to thin it.


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

I never work more than a 2# cut. 3# feels too thick to brush or pad on and I'd never spray it that thick.

If you are confident that the table top is finished with amber shellac, then go with the amber shellac. But it'll be hard to match the color if all you are doing is taking one bottle of TransTint and squirting some in some Sealcoat. It will require a certain mix of dyes, more than likely. But this gives you the most control.

I don't think you'll get close using amber shellac alone, or mixed with the blonde, but definitely try if first. There's no compatibility issue you'd need to worry about.


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## mtx77 (Nov 14, 2012)

Rockler waxed flakes…no I dont want waxed shellac…thank you for pointing that out..

I dont know what the tabletop is finished with other than its poly on top. I have pics of it, but a digital camera under flourescent lights isnt reproducing the color very well. Here it is against the general finishes oil stain colors










Im getting close with the amber transtint in the blonde shellac sealcoat. But where there's heavy grain patterns its getting a bit too ambery. To keep the grain from pulling in too much color I was going to try putting down some conditioner and/or a light (natural) oil stain and/or blond shellac. Then adding some amber tinted shellac. I think using a lighter cut on the tinted shellac may help as well.

Obviously ive never done this before so theres alot of trial & error. Luckily I measured wrong on one of the apron sides and redid it from scratch so I have alot of scrap to test with


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

This is where you need to spray, so that absorption of the color doesn't affect individual sections. This is the perfect reason why people use "toners," or a dye-tinted finish.

Knowing the original finish is poly, I would experiment with a mixture of stains to blend with the poly itself. The figure in that oak table isn't very exaggerated, meaning that it likely wasn't done with a stain in the first place (whereas the figure pops more). I'd bet the original finish is a tinted-finish (or amber shellac sprayed on).

That's the other issue…you might get the color exactly right, but if you brush on a stain, you might end up with a vast difference in the way the grain appears on new and old wood, particularly if the original was sprayed. You reall need to match not just the color, but also the method.

My $.02.


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## Purrmaster (Sep 1, 2012)

My local Woodcraft has some orange shellac flakes that are dewaxed, it that helps.


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## mtx77 (Nov 14, 2012)

Cosmicsniper yes thats exactly the problem I ran into. With just regular stain I was getting close to the color…then i'd hit the grain and it'd be way too dark and contrasting. There's lots of articles on how to make the grain pop, not so many on how to make it not pop. I am starting to get somewhere using a washcoat (im testing with blond shellac and wood conditioner), then adding a light stain, then adding the amber shellac. Im hoping a lighter cut of shellac will help too. Ill play around with adding some stain to the poly as well.

I have alot of pretty colored scrap if nothing else 

A compressor is definitely in my future but I just cant swing it right now.

I tried my local woodcraft for orange flakes, all they had was zinsser premixed amber. The guy said they were having some shellac flake supply problems. I dont know if its just that store or the whole chain. Lac bugs on strike or something.


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

There ya go. I'd bet if you sprayed it straight from the get-go, your problem will be solved.

If you can swing the $50 or so, I'd recommend the HF HVLP turbine sprayer. You'd be shocked how good it is. No need for a compressor. It's the same one that Rockler sells for about three times the price.


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## Purrmaster (Sep 1, 2012)

Do you know what item number that Harbor Freight turbine is?


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