# How would you advise a beginner to spend his next $1000?



## mcg1990 (Nov 11, 2014)

I've just finished building my shop - it's 22' x 13' (~280sq ft), not yet insulated/heated, and I have a mitre saw along with a few basic power tools/hand tools. I've been given some money to help me get set up, so I'm looking for advice before I spend the money, so I can be wise with it and a) start myself off as best as I can, and b) show the most respect for the money I've been given.

I mostly get orders for tables right now, and do the odd bed/kitchen island/repainting job. These are mostly of the 'rustic' variety, which is popular in my area and has a low entry requirement in terms of skill. Also, I've been given access to a giant old animal barn and can disassemble it at my leisure. Most of the boards are oak, from 1 1/2" to 3 1/2" x 8" to 12". Incredible stuff, with huge 6"sq posts as well. I hope to use this to make many tables and beds, with some of it quite raw in style and others somewhat modern after having heavily planed the boards.

So - I think I need, in this order, a table saw, planer, jointer. Band saw can wait, compressor can wait, dust collection can wait. They have to, really.

How would you best spend $1000 if you were in my position? I'm looking on Craigslist (around Memphis/Jackson TN) and mostly see Craftsman 10" 'contractor' table saws, the old delta/ridgid. Should I keep looking for a cabinet saw, or settle for a contractor style base and save money in the short run? Similarly the planer, I think I'll be happy enough with a portable 12" thickness planer for now, and a small 6" jointer, but what should I be looking out for? My shop has both 120v and 240v, so there are no concerns there.

Thanks all for your help.


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## ButchCassidy (Dec 15, 2014)

First think about what tools that will best benefit, you. Then buy the best tool that you can afford in the order of your need. Why spend money on something cheap and say I will upgrade it later. Start with quality and you will not be disappointed later.


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## PhillipRCW (Dec 9, 2014)

I'm kind of in the same shoes. I have money to start the business, but wanted to get enough tools to do everything right with it. I bought a new delta saw from Lowe's. Looking for a joiner on Craigslist. To get by you cold use a hand planer. And maybe get a router or a Dado set. Something to help do breadboard ends correctly if you're doing them.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

Everyone is different, but in most shops (mine included), a good table saw is the center of the shop…it'd also be conducive to your build list. That's where I'd focus my budget and research. Since you have 220v, I'd definitely see if you could score a good 3hp cabinet saw….it's not an essential to do good work, but the step in that direction is significant and I can't imagine you'll ever regret having the extra mass, power, and user friendliness that an industrial cabinet saw offers. $1000 doesn't quite land a new cabinet saw, but it gets you within reach. It should cover a nice used one if the right deal comes along.

Now that my heart has spoken, getting by with a decent hybrid or full size contractor saw could mean that you can have the planer or jointer AND a table saw now. Ultimately, you'll need to choose which direction to head.

Either way, get the saw setup well and fit it with a good blade or three.

*The ABCs of Table Saws*

*Tips for Picking Saw Blades*


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## joey502 (Mar 30, 2014)

The table saw is, in my opinion, the first thing to buy. A nice cabinet or hybrid saw will excel at so many things other than ripping. After the table saw I would look at planer, band saw and then a jointer. The rustic furniture you are building does not require boards to be as flat as some other styles. I think the band saw would benefit you more now than the jointer would.

Just my opinion and this can surely wait but, I would look into spending some of the money on insulation for the shop. I know a lot of cold climate guys on this site tough out the cold but I can't do it. My shop is much more enjoyable to work in when the temp is about 65F.


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

"not yet insulated/heated" - do you need that in Memphis? If you plan on doing finishing out there in the winter and it gets cold enough, I'd insulate before you fill the place up or start putting up shelves and cabinets. A lot harder to do after and you'll kick yourself.


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## johnstoneb (Jun 14, 2012)

If you are really serious about a business you need to get that shop heated and insulated. You can't be stopping work because it is too cold to glue or finish and the Memphis area get that way at times.

You need to get a business plan together to see if it is really feasible to make money doing what you want.


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## laketrout36 (Nov 7, 2012)

Another question for you; Is furniture building going to be your full time business right now or a way to initially generate additional money?


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## shawnn (Aug 30, 2014)

In hindsight on my own recent experiences, I would get a drum sander (something to sand panels & boards flat) and a good router table, and go inexpensive on table saw, jointer & planer for now - I spend more time sanding than anything else so automating the sanding would save much more time than you'll save with higher end versions of those other tools. Plus those other tools are so much more commonly available used it's always easy to find upgrades down the road. With regard to router tables, I spend nearly as much time routing as I do sanding. I do all my joinery on it rather than on the saw so I find that accuracy, repeatability and speed of setup is a huge benefit.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

A table saw is the heart of a woodshop,start there. Buy the best table saw you can afford,so many folks buy a cheap $100 used Craftsman and end up having to replace it in short order. If you can stretch your budget a bit look at a Grizzly Hybrid or if you have 220in your shop see if you can find and older Powermatic cabinet saw that will give you good service for years to come.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

A table saw is the corner stone of any shop, you should be able to get a Unisaw or PM66 in excellent condition used within your budget. Patience is your friend when looking for a good deal and be ready to act and quickly with cash when excellent examples show up. If you have the chance, put your hands on a few and see what feature and fence you like, that will help ensure you'll be able to use whatever you buy for the rest of your life without regret.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Opps I see you have 220

These look like they might work

http://littlerock.craigslist.org/tls/4798152369.html

http://littlerock.craigslist.org/tls/4807207118.html


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## GT350 (Dec 22, 2012)

If I were you with the $1000,00 I would buy the Craftsman saw, the 6" jointer and the 12" planer, with this setup you can dimension all your lumber. The band saw would be nice to be able to resaw some of those big timbers. Later on, like years down the road if you need a Tablesaw with more power or accuracy etc. you can upgrade then and not be out a lot of money. Just make sure if you get the Craftsman it is the one with the motor out the back.
Mike


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

You will be amazed at all the things you can do with a good table saw. Go for the best you can afford. Either of those that Jim mentioned will do the job. Do you have room for those? That is the only concern. You can shorten those fence rails if you need to.


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## dozer57 (Apr 18, 2014)

Table saw even if it cost you the hole grand!!
Then a planer or air compressor
plung router
Bandsaw
Imo this what I would do, as these are my most use tools in my shop
Don't forget to get yourself some good lighting to work by.
Look around and you should be able to find it all for a grand or a bit more, cl or auctions
Good luck


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## 8iowa (Feb 7, 2008)

Heating and insulation would be at the top of my list. Insulation is inexpensive. In only 280 sq. ft. you could probably heat with a small electric heater. Avoid non vented gas heaters, they add a lot of rust promoting moisture to the space.

Here in Gainesville I work in 194 sq. ft. I have a small workbench with shoulder and tail vices and bench dogs. It is my gluing, clamping, and assembly "tool". It's my "third hand" helper. Every project spends time on this bench. It is indispensable. A good bench would be next on my list.

You'll have only 80 sq. ft. more than I have. Frankly, as wonderful as it may be, a cabinet saw is not in my picture. It would occupy/dominate the central work space and be a 500 lb. obstacle much of the time. You are going to need smaller and portable tools that can sit in "their place", out of the way, when not being used.

Some type of dust collection is important, especially if you get a small planer, which can overwhelm you with dust and chips, I even like a ceiling mounted air cleaner. If you are going to paint and varnish in this space you need clean air.

I'm using hand tools much more than I used to. This includes chisels, dovetail and tenon saws, and hand planes. Look for good used tools that you can re-furm and sharpen yourself.


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## runswithscissors (Nov 8, 2012)

That large dimension oak you'll be getting out of the barn suggests a bandsaw for resawing. Nothing smaller than a 14", but bigger would be better. You see a lot of 14 inchers on CL. The argument for a larger one is not so much because of the height and width capacity, as it is for the ability to handle heavier blades for resawing.


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## mudflap4869 (May 28, 2014)

Insulation! Temp and humidity fluctuations in the Memphis area can ruin the best of work.

Of all the equipt in my shop I probably use the sliding miter saw the most. Super quick to set your angles and stop blocks for repeat cuts. Planer and joiner are super time savers. and build a dedicated down draft sanding table.

Since you have a limited work space you will want to be cautious about large tools taking up all your space. Believe me a shop shrinks in size with every item going in the door, and each of them needs to be on casters in order to move them around in your 13 ft wide space. Draw up a diagram of your shop and use templates to design for the most ecconomical use of the space.

I finaly built a 30×40 shop 2 years ago and it has already shrank in size when I added the tools I needed for my projects. Now I need a building just to store wood out of the weather. It is taking up about a quarter of the shop and difficult to sort through to find the right peice for the project. Yep, I failed to take that into consideration when building.


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## mcg1990 (Nov 11, 2014)

Thanks everyone. I had suspected that I should invest in the table saw first and hold off on other purchases til later, and the consensus here has reinforced that; I'll insulate my shop and then spend as much on a table saw as the wife will allow (I'm guessing around $800, if I'm lucky).

I'm scouring Craigslist to find some good deals and I live between Jackson TN and Memphis TN. If anyone should see anything, or if you live in the area, I'll appreciate tips.

These are ones I'm looking at so far:
https://jacksontn.craigslist.org/tls/4831184392.html - Looks good but I'd probably be replacing that outfeed table with a purpose built table/cabinet. I'd need to get the price down.

http://memphis.craigslist.org/tls/4807753953.html - The table saw only. I'm enquiring about the price, but am 99% sure it'll be well out of my price range.


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## joey502 (Mar 30, 2014)

My opinion would be the saw in Memphis , if you can get it inside of you price range. The Jackson saw has a tube rail fence system, not as good as the t- square system on the other saw.


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## runswithscissors (Nov 8, 2012)

The Jackson saw also lacks a riving knife, and I agree with joey 502 about the fence and rail system. Basically, it sucks. My Uni didn't come with a fence, which was ok with me, as I had it in mind to build my own custom system, which I did. And $1000 is way too much. I wouldn't give more than half that for it, unless it was in outstanding condition (which it doesn't look to be).

The Memphis saw is newer and looks like a nice saw, but I don't know when Delta added a riving knife. Maybe Knottscot knows. I think the mandate came in around 2008, but can't vouch for that. (Just saw statement that it became mandatory in Jan of 2014, but I think many saws had it before then).

Have you asked what the seller wants for the Unisaw?


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

If I had a $1000 dollars in cash in my hand, the first thing I would do is to pay off my debt. If I didn't have any debt, I would either hold on to it (since the dollar is going up & more likely going higher) or to find an opportunity to buy a tool (something tangible) that will appreciate in time when dollar begins to decline. At this point $ cash is the king.


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## Cyrus30 (Jan 3, 2015)

Great advise above, the only slight deviation I would recommend, is, but a dowel max doweling jig as soon as you can. I have a pretty good set up and have been doing this for fifteen ish years. I was in shock over the sticker price but at 450 after buying everything I think I'll need forever, it has revolutionized the way I do joints. Every other joinery system I have collects dust now…


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## CPWD (Dec 28, 2014)

As others have said the table saw is the heart and soul of a wood shop. That would be my first purchase.

One thing I have learned over the years is to buy the best quality tools you can afford …the first time. They will save you time (usually more accurate) and money as they (tend to last longer) and are generally safer to use.

Good luck with your shop set up. Keep us posted as you progress.


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## mcg1990 (Nov 11, 2014)

The more I thought about that nice lookin Delta X the more I realize it's not suitable for my shop. The sheer width of that table is too much for my shop of 13' x 22'.

The Unisaw looks good as I can fold down the outfeed rollers, although I understand that the fence is not ideal, it doesn't have a riving knife (though one photo shows the slot for one, so I can add that) and the price is 2x what it should be. If I can get the price down, I think I might go for it. What price should I aim for, and should I enquire regarding certain specs?

A third option that arose, but is 3 hours away, is this Grizzly https://nashville.craigslist.org/tls/4827883374.html 
Again, the price is too high, and it doesn't even have the option of a riving knife which is putting me off. It does look like a very nice saw, though!

I think I'm starting to realize what I need from my saw, but it's very tough finding a used one that fits the bill. Craigslist is so inundated with $100 contractor saws, and I plan to be running a 5000sqft barn's worth of oak through it over the next few years.. I'm gonna need some power!


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## CPWD (Dec 28, 2014)

The key here is that you have done your research and know what you need BEFORE the purchase. Buyers remorse sucks. Good luck, persistence will pay off.


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## VeritasInnovations (Jan 4, 2015)

Keep in Mind that you have added a bit of overhead in a building and will add more in tools, but they are essential.

1. Table saw. Get it first. Contractor grade is fine for now just find one that satisfies the criticals. I wouldnt go for a cabinet saw until I had 3k to sink into one. You want a 10 inch saw that can be wired to 120 or 240. Dont worry about the legs as you can build a solid base. Your looking for a the thickest and largest metal top you can find with lengthy front and back rails and a biesmeyer type fence setup. Rigid makes a decent one that goes for 500.00 at home depot. Look up coupon codes for the saw you choose on google and you'll find some discounts. Also take note of the raising/lowering and tilt mechanisms as ive seen some sketchy ones! Buy new so if theres any problem, you have an option of return.

2. Benchtop planer Look for solid build and sturdy feed table. Dewalt used to make great planers but started farming their knife manufacturing overseas and I had problems with short lifespan on knives and they arent cheap to replace. I have a single head dual knife Porter Cable that set me back 200.00 and I'd take it over a dewalt any day. Knives are cheaper and stronger and the feed table is adjustable so its easy to dial in. I can remove both double sided knives, resharpen them and be reinstalled in 15 minutes flat. Double sided knives are handy as when one side gets dull, 5 minutes flips them over. Again look for coupons.

between those two tools you are pretty well covered and have 300 left.

with a jig you can use a table saw or a planer as a jointer….and jigs are cheap.

As for that 300 bucks…....

3. Buy a hydrometer. Itll set you back 30.00 but moisture content can make or break a piece… 
4. Go to a junk yard or local hvac company and ask them for a used large squirrel cage furnace blower. They replace them daily and are bound to have some laying out back or in the dumpster or scrap metal bin out back. 3 speed 120 volt or larger if they have it. If you dont wal away with one for free youll have 20 bucks in it more than likely and will no doubt be an 8 inch inlet. Look for the highest cfm rating you can find.
5. An 8 inch to 4 inch duct reducer and 50 feet of 4 inch duct and tape will eat up another 60.00 but itll have you a decent inside to outside dust collector put together. That'll make it bearable to run a table saw or planer in there at least with a solid run ran to the new table saw and another to collect from another tool or workbench or just be capped off until you find the spot for it…. but its there when you need it! Make a dust collection setup that runs off to the side of your planer and attach it to an insert you can make for your table saw. when you need to use the planer just lower the tablesaw blade and switch to your fabricated insert and youll have dust collection and a good bench top for your planer!

6. Grab 2 old box fans which youll have or can get for free on craigslist. Pick up 2 good furnace filters and some j-channel for vinyl siding. Thatll be 40 bucks. Attach the J-channel to the back side of the fans on 3 sides with the inner dimensions between parallel pieces being 1/8 inch bigger than the furnace filter. Slide the filters into the jchannel against the back of the fan and you have decent small particle filtration. Youll need it.

Theres 150 of your remaining 300 ate up! Now you have 150.

7. Find a decent space heater or electrical heater. with some digging you might be able to find an old commercial 240 volt heater infact you new buddies at the hvac company may be able to help tou out. Check Craigslist and ebay as well. put 75.00 into that if you have to. If nothing else a salimander heater will do if it will run on Kerosene and youll probably locate one for 50.00 instead of 75.00 and can run your power to it on a 15.00 thermostat. You goal is to regulate temps at around 50 degrees at a minimum. A salimander heater wouldnt be the best for an enclosed space usually as it doesnt do too well at burning up moisture in the air in an enclosed situation. Lucky for you, your filtration fans and dust collector are decent ventilation and that turns the tables.

Now were at 75.00 in our pocket.

8. Search old tools and find yourself a few 12 inch or better pieces of acme threaded rod with nuts that fit on them 1/2 inch or better will work and grab the handles connected to them while your at it. 2 pieces will do you fine. You certainly will find these at a junkyard if nowhere else. Then your on the hunt for 1 piece 16 inches long or better with the nut that is at least 3/4 inch . Youll find it at the junkyard or on a tool as well. Most any old machine or tool including c-clamps and vices are going to have acme thread. Old junk table saws are the ticket for acme thread as youll get the rod, the nuts, the handles, and yolk that it spins in all at once! Youll probably walk away with your hardware for 15.00 or less. and that brings yourfunds down to 60.00…....

9. Save that 60.00, youll need it in odds and ends in setting your shop up.

10. Assemble your table saw, planer, dust collection systems, air filtration and thermostat controlled heating. When thats all good to go you'll acquire the most important tool that will be in your shop…...Your workbench! Get to planing and ripping on those oak boards and in a few days youll have a strong laminated top on sturdy legs with bench dog holes down both sides. Grab your 1/2 inch acme thread and integrate them into a few tail vises for you dogs. Grab your 3/4 inch acme thread and nut and with some creativity and that oak youll make a hell of a leg vise for yourself that works pheonominally! It may not spin as free as a benchcrafted setup but it didnt cost 700 bucks either. if you want it to spin real nice, grab a 5 pound weight oof of the benchpress and use it as your handle.The rest is wood and time although i would make at leat 1 sliding deadman on the side of the bench your leg vise is on. With the handcrank dual tail vises on your bench and bench dogs placed evenly from side to side down the length of the table you have a hell of a glue rack if you need it and youll wish that you had it when you were laminating that top!

Between odds and ends parts, and sealing up that table saw (contractor grade stationary saws arent the best for being airtight and you want all of the suction you can get! I would run that second dust collection duct right into the bottom of my workbench. That will help you keep it clean and with a few adapters youll have the option of using it as a vaccuum with a shop vac hose as well as hooking power tools like sanders etc. up to it. Real easy to cap off when not in use. Remember to somehow temporarily insulate the ceiling as well as you can. dropcloths, old comforters, some barn siding would make a real nice woodshop ceiling as well as adding r value…...

Turn out a few pieces and youll probably have a jointer in there, an insulated building better heating setup and have some spare change left over…..

I just got done setting up a 4500 square foot shop and when funds got tight I used a few of these methods myself. So I know they will work for you as they have for me. Is it state of the art, no…... but it works and keep me doing what i love and thats what matters. State of the art can come over the course of the year.

I hope this helps you and wish you all of the best!


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## runswithscissors (Nov 8, 2012)

That Grizzly is somewhat overpriced, but not badly, as it has an excellent fence, unique to Grizzly (or Shop Fox) I think. While it isn't set up for a riving knife, there is the BORK (Bolt On Riving Knife) that you can put on. Though not a true riving knife, it serves pretty well. Read Knottscott's review of it (or others-quite a few people have reviewed it.)


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## VeritasInnovations (Jan 4, 2015)

> Since you have a limited work space you will want to be cautious about large tools taking up all your space. *Believe me a shop shrinks in size with every item going in the door,* and each of them needs to be on casters in order to move them around in your 13 ft wide space. Draw up a diagram of your shop and use templates to design for the most ecconomical use of the space.
> 
> I just experienced how right your statment is about a week ago.
> I just set up a full shop in 4500 sq ft. and after i got all of my tools, accessories etc. in there and organized as well as wood racks…....... I couldnt believe that the thought crossed my mind…. Its getting a little crowded in here. Funny thing is how it can be very, clean open and well organized, and wide open looking and you still feel a little cramped. Efficiency takes planning but in woodworking, it takes being abl to walk to any tool with any board and be able to hit the switch and go! When you take that into consideration i think i can justify the thought….


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## daddywoofdawg (Feb 1, 2014)

Can you do a Article/details on setting that up used large squirrel cage furnace blower dust collector. #4.sounds like something I'd like to try but not really seeing the connections in my head.picture is worth a 1000 words.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

You can't use a furnace blower for a dust collector. The blower wheels are not capable nor designed for significant dust or chips wood working machines generate. The CFM ratings, while high, are not accompanied with the vacuum force required to pull enough CFM through dust collection piping.


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## VeritasInnovations (Jan 4, 2015)

You can t use a furnace blower for a dust collector. The blower wheels are not capable nor designed for significant dust or chips wood working machines generate. The CFM ratings, while high, are not accompanied with the vacuum force required to pull enough CFM through dust collection piping.

Agreed, They are not ideal but for the investment cost i had in mine (about 80.00 completely set up) I found it to be worth the money as a stand in until i get a really good setup. It seems to have enough draw for table saw and chop saw at the same time. Have used it with a planer as well with no problems. Its lifespan is limited, but when funds had to be allocated to other tools/ setup costs, It was merely a creative temporary solution to the problem that i could afford. As it turned out, it was a lot better than having nothing. One very big difference that I believe lead to my dust collectors success is that I built a cyclone separator for it which allows for separating the significant chips before they would reach the squirrel cage. It seems to handle the fine dust left over just fine and by running the exhaust directly outside, I eliminated the need for a humongous expensive filter.


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## bowedcurly (Aug 31, 2013)

there is a powermatic pm1000 in nashville tenn for 1100 bucks almost new craigslist, if you want a dado blade there is 4 cmt 8 inch top of the line dado blades on ebay for like 50.00 I have one and they cut super great smooth and quiet


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## DrDirt (Feb 26, 2008)

Since you say you are doing tables, and planning to work with beams from the animal barn.

I would say you want/need a cabinet saw that you can "jockey" big stuff on the heavy cabinet, rather than the stamped steel legs on a contractor saw.

All is doable - - but I would search Craigs list for a Unisaw


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## Waldo88 (Nov 7, 2014)

> Here in Gainesville I work in 194 sq. ft. I have a small workbench with shoulder and tail vices and bench dogs. It is my gluing, clamping, and assembly "tool". It s my "third hand" helper. Every project spends time on this bench. It is indispensable. A good bench would be next on my list.
> 
> You ll have only 80 sq. ft. more than I have. Frankly, as wonderful as it may be, a cabinet saw is not in my picture. It would occupy/dominate the central work space and be a 500 lb. obstacle much of the time. You are going to need smaller and portable tools that can sit in "their place", out of the way, when not being used.


I've got 187 sq ft (11×17), and its the same situation. A cabinet saw is not in the cards, it is simply way too big for the space. I could probably work in a portable contractor saw that can be rolled out of the way when not in use.

The band saw is the centerpiece power tool of my shop. I also use a lot of hand tools; they are affordable and don't take up a lot of space, and do a fine job. (I tend to see the bandsaw as the hand tool of power tools).


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## OSU55 (Dec 14, 2012)

I agree with the decision to insulate/heat your shop 1st, then find a TS. One thing not mentioned is how do you plan to finish projects - brush, spray, stain, poly, lacquer, shellac, solvent or waterborne, etc. It's an important decision for cold months. Using solvent finishes requires venting, which requires more heat, and higher heating bills. Waterbornes don't, and a small electric heater will probably do it

Considering your shop size, I would definitely NOT get a large cabinet saw, and the TS needs to be on a mobile base. The larger jobsite saws can do what's needed. My Bosch 4100 cuts right through 2-1/2" red oak. Folding tables with leg inserts raised to TS height can be used for infeed/outfeed and then folded and put out of the way. Ply sheets and long lumber can be cut down with a circular saw with a good blade.

As for dust collection, you aren't going to vent it outside when it's cold. That's a big heater and utility bill to keep up with. The larger harbor freight collector would work, and can be had for ~$200 on sale/coupon, or less on CL.

I concur with the posts concerning a workbench - if you don't have one, that's project 1 after the TS. The ideas of using acme threaded rod and nuts for vices are good, cheap ways to get going.

For the large barn posts/lumber, at this point you can most likely find someone locally to resaw it for you vs a large capital outlay for a large band saw.

If you're going to do fine finish furniture, a planer is needed, and a bench style 12"-13" should do it. A Stanley #7 with a Lee Valley magnetic fence can joint better than a jointer and flatten glue ups, and not take up any room. Build clamping cauls from 2×4's for glue ups, and HF has pretty good clamps cheap.

You could get by with a 5-6" random orbit sander if you know your way around hand planes. I can smooth up planed lumber faster and better with a hand plane vs a sander. Yes, large shops use expensive drum or stroke sanders, but that's not in your finances for a while.

A decent plunge router to shape some edges and jigsaw for curves are needed.

For rustic furniture, a TS, drill, and a few clamps may be all you need.


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