# What wood do you use for jigs, etc?



## greatview (Oct 3, 2009)

I've essentially switched to almost exclusively MDO which my local lumber stocks in 1/2" (good both sides) and 3/4" (good both sides and good one side) With the paper facing it is easy to do a layout directly on the surface and, if I need to paint, it accepts paint very well. I've also used it where I might have used birch veneer that I might have painted. Same edge problem but it is a really nice surface. And, it is really waterproof and will work for out side applications. (Around here, some of the highway signs are made from it.)

About the only downside I've discovered is that glue doesn't adhere well to the paper facing. But with a bit of sanding to roughen the surface, glus will stick.


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

MDO, MDF, BB. are my favorite jig materials. Of those, I'd say that I prefer BB. Cost/benefit analysis.


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## NiteWalker (May 7, 2011)

I use baltic birch for most of jigs and router templates.
I used to use MDF a lot, but try to stay away from that now.


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## doncutlip (Aug 30, 2008)

BB and MDF so far. MDF seems to hold up pretty good, but oh the dust it makes. I get dust in every corner of my shop when I work MDF.


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## richgreer (Dec 25, 2009)

I usually just grab what is handy.

However, I learned a lesson last summer I will share. W needed templates for the pew ends we were making for our church. Because we were producing a large quantity of them, I made 3 identical templates and I used OSB because I had some available. We used a template to draw the shape of the pew end in pencil. Then we cut them out crudely with a band saw and/or jig saw. Then, with a template attached with a couple of screws that would be in a hidden location, we router the edges with a straight bit and guide bearing.

My discovery was that after routing several pew ends (between 10 and 15), the OSB started to break down causing an uneven edge on the pew end.


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## BensBeerStShop (Jan 8, 2012)

I agree with Rich. I use whatever is handy and make a lot of jigs on the fly as I need them. I will use anything I can do get what I need done. Jigs don't need to be pretty at all, just functional. A lot of my jigs are one time use, so I don't spend a ton of time or waste good wood on them. Some that I know I will get a lot of use out of, I build to last. I have a general aversion to OSB and MDF, so I rarely even have any in the shop


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

MDO? I have always used BB ply but recently my sled has developed a bow in it which is very disappointing. It has never been wet and is stored on edge so this shouldn't have happened.


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## handi (Mar 31, 2006)

If you have not tried it, you need to look at phenolic faced plywood. Comes in 1/2" and 3/4" (I typically make jigs in 1/2")

Basically, it is better quality baltic birch (no voids) that is used for concrete forms. The two faces are coated in a thin layer of phenolic. Both Rockler and Woodcraft sell it. It is pricey, but stays very stable and machines well.

Phenolic Faced Ply

I especially like it for jigs that I intend to use for a long time. You can see some of it used in my insert throat plate.










Ralph


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## Bobsboxes (Feb 8, 2011)

Next trip thur denver I hope to get a sheet or two of the phenolic ply but in the mean time I use only BB. mdf dust is not good. I think you can get 4 X 8 sheet of the phenolic ply at whitecap supply. With the plastic face it is very stable.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

No one has told me what MDO stands for. PLEASE???


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## TCCcabinetmaker (Dec 14, 2011)

pretty much whatever 3/4 plywood I have laying around. I just make them to do what must be done, not to look pretty.


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## Bagtown (Mar 9, 2008)

gfadvm - I had to look it up too.

Have a look here.

Mike


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Thanks Mike. I have never seen this and not sure where to get it in my area. It sounds like it would be good for jig material. Phenolic ply seems very pricey here. Maybe this is less expensive. Andy


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

Where strength is required I like Baltic Birch plywood, otherwise Mdf for it's flatness. The phenolic ply is excellent stuff and when I can pick up some offcuts at a cheap price I buy it for jigs.


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## JAAune (Jan 22, 2012)

My preference is cabinet grade particle board since it's the cheapest and is stiffer than MDF. If that's not available then it's usually scraps of whatever is on hand. If a smooth, durable edge is needed then my choice is usually MDF with epoxy-coated edges.

Jigs intended for long-term use are made with more care going into material selection.


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## TCCcabinetmaker (Dec 14, 2011)

particle board is not cabinet grade…


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## JAAune (Jan 22, 2012)

Cabinet grade simply refers to the grade of the material. If you buy particle board from a industry supplier it will come in 49"x97" sheets. It isn't the same material as the 48"x96" sheets available at home improvement stores.

Whether or not you wish to make cabinets from it is your choice but it is nice and inexpensive for building jigs and forms that likely to see little use.


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## TCCcabinetmaker (Dec 14, 2011)

Yes and no JAAune, it is available to industrial peoples as 48×96s as well.

What I was basically saying is, regardless of what they call it, you should NEVER use particle board for cabinets. One leaky pipe is all it takes to destroy that stuff.


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## JAAune (Jan 22, 2012)

The correct term is actually industrial so my saying cabinet is technically not correct. A lot of home improvement centers do use it for that purpose though.

I use plywood for cabinetry but really prefer not to build any cabinets at all. It's not that I can't but the setup is different from building furniture and that is my primary focus.


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## MoshupTrail (Aug 11, 2011)

I use whatever is in the scrap pile. For example, today I was working with some cherry and needed to cut mortises in the sides of some boards. I don't have a mortising machine, so I use a Forstner bit in the drill press and then work real hard with a couple of chisels  So I made a mortising jig to stabilize the boards vertically and insure that my drilled holes would be exactly in a straight line. I used a cut-off of some of the cherry and piece of poplar I found in the pile. It was kinda fun actually.

For larger jigs - that I couldn't find in the scrap pile, I think I'd use some "cabinet grade" 3/4" plywood I got at HD last summer for $25 per sheet. It's A-B pine surfaced and has no holes inside. Great for shop cabinets, but probably not for fine furniture.


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## DylanC (Jan 29, 2011)

I have to say that I am NOT a fan of MDF for anything that you intend to keep, use, and maybe abuse for any length of time. It soaks up moisture like a sponge, the corners and edges ding too easily, and the dust from cutting the stuff is just terrible. It might be OK for disposable templates and patterns, but I don't think I'll be using it for much else.


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## Nighthawk (Dec 13, 2011)

For most of my jigs either MDF or Pine depending what is laying around the basement of mine.

I always where a dust mask when cutting or sanding MDF (and always when sanding anything) I have a jig mad out of MDF that is about 7 years old and still good as the day it was made.

If it is an MDF jig and depending on the jig I paint, varnish it to sell it and stop any mositure. I need to buy an MDF for a jig (for what ever reason) I will ask for the top or bottom sheets which may have slight damage(usually strap marks) and get them alot cheaper. Does depend on the job though…


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## tom427cid (Aug 21, 2011)

If the jig or fixture is going to be used more than a time or two and I want some fine adjustability I will use hard maple. Once it is dry and has a while to season it is pretty stable. For me it is the ability to have threads cut in it. I use 3/8 and 5/16 coarse threads usually. Made some fence stops for the TS over ten years ago and they still work very nicely. Also have used it for special shaped guides for routers.
Like most everyone else for a one time use-whatever is handy and it uses up scraps.
tom


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