# Bandsaw Resawing Jig



## TomFran (Jun 19, 2007)

Does anybody have a plan or picture of a fence (jig) that can be used for resawing on a bandsaw?

I would like to use my saw to slice wood into thinner thicknesses, but the factory fence cannot be adjusted for drift. I was hoping that someone could post a picture of theirs or possibly give me a link to a PDF file of a plan.

Thanks in advance.


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## mot (May 8, 2007)

Hey Tom…I think I have one. I'll go through my stuff. Shoot me a PM with your email address and I'll send it out tonight.


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## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

Hi Tom'

I have two which I made which are rather simple, but effective.

The first one amounts to a fence board screwed to a table board. Both pieces can be 3/4" materials. The fence piece has a vertical block, about an 1 1/2" thick, with the front edge shaped to a half circle. Make the fence board as high as your saw will allow, or you desire. Mine's about 5" high.

The table piece can be as little as 3"wide, and long enough to clamp to your saw top. This one does not need to be clampled to follow the blade drift.

I set the center of the rounded block just in font of the leading edge of the blade. Always keep you eye on the line just prior to where the blade is cutting. This detail makes a big difference in your cutting ability. If you watch the blade cutting AT the line, it's too late to make adjustments in the travel.

The second one is basically the same, except there is no vertical block. Just an "L" shaped fence, which can be clamped parallel to the blade drift. Determine the blade drift by starting a free hand cut, trying to cut along a straight line. Part way through the cut, stop the saw, and mark along the edge of the board, on the saw table. Clamp the fence parallel to that line.

Hope I explained that clearly.

Lee


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## Tangle (Jul 21, 2007)

Yep, Lee,
That's the way i do it too. I just had to remodel my Kreg fence because it wouldn't adjust far enough to compensate for the drift. I had to turn the drift hole into a slot. Now it works right but I need to bolt an auxilary fence on to extend the fence farther past the Kreg fence(it's on a 20" Delta.). I'm having trouble with the re-sawn board wobbling as it leaves the blade.
Tom


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## MsDebbieP (Jan 4, 2007)

pictures please.

Rick was just talking about needing such a jig. I just said "uh huh" .. but now I can say "here's how to do it". .. but I need pictures.


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## snowdog (Jul 1, 2007)

MY fence came with a big mettle dowel that screws into it for resawing. Why not take a bit hardwood dowl (1" + ) and bolt it to your existing fence?


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## Tangle (Jul 21, 2007)

Dog,
That works as well. Kreg makes a re-saw guide that attaches to the fence. With the dowel or the re-saw guide it is necessary to hand guide the piece rather than just holding it against the fence. It works but is not as good as a setup that has good repeatablility. I made a wooden one and it works but doesn't do quite what I want.
Tom


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## boboswin (May 23, 2007)

Here's a plan for one I made a few years ago for a 14" saw.
I can take a pic of it if you are interested.

Bob
http://tnvalleywoodclub.org/Archives/2002/images/374_1_3.gif


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## alanealane (Oct 1, 2007)

The above plans for bandsaw jigs are FANTASTIC. As was mentioned above, there is nothing better for repeatability than a well set up fence. IF YOU WANT TO AVOID A 'FENCE' ALTOGETHER, Here's one more idea to choose from:

First of all: Some people have heard of Magswitch, a company that makes extremely strong magnetic holders just for shop jigs and fixtures (they even make magnetic featherboards). The Kreg resaw guide can be bolted directly to this and then 'stuck' to any ferrous metal bandsaw table (I hope yours isn't an aluminum table). THE DOWNSIDE TO THIS IS THE PRICE. The Magswitch (shown below) costs just under $40 and the smaller model Kreg resaw guide is just under $20.
















Above photos courtesy www.rockler.com

BUT ALONG THE SAME CONCEPT--HERE'S A LESS EXPENSIVE ALTERNATIVE:
This appears in the latest issue of Woodworker's Journal. (Send a message to my profile if you want a scanned picture of the page in the magazine).

Take a standard right angle welding magnet (preferably with an on/off switch) which is much cheaper than the Magswitch, and bolt a length of PVC pipe to it to make a curved resaw guide. This I would guess would cost less than $10 to make-I have plans to try this one on my b-saw. BELOW ARE A COUPLE OF 3D VIEWS I CREATED IN MY DRAFTING SOFTWARE-HOPE IT HELPS!!!

















I HAVE NO INTENTION OF DISCOURAGING ANYONE FROM PURCHASING FROM EITHER Magswitch OR Kreg. It's just an idea I read in a magazine.

HAVE FUN!!!!!!!!


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## TomFran (Jun 19, 2007)

Thanks a lot everyone!

*Lee*, Thanks a lot for the description of the jigs, but could you be so kind as to take a picture and post it for us.

*Bob*, I would love it if you would take a picture and post it here. I'll bet I'm not the only one who will benefit from help on this.

If *all of you L J's* could get your digital cameras out and take a picture of what you're using, it would be extremely helpful for comparison of ideas.

*Tom (mot)*, Thanks for sending the PDF file - I really appreciate it!

Now that I finally have a planer again, I want to start doing some resawing, but I'm looking for the most suitable jig to do that.


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## TomFran (Jun 19, 2007)

Lane,

Thanks a lot for the pictures and the CAD produced drawing. That helps me a lot!

"Take a standard right angle welding magnet (preferably with an on/off switch)" - Could you explain in regard to this "welding magnet," since I'm not familiar with these or where one might be purchased.


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## boboswin (May 23, 2007)

*"Bob, I would love it if you would take a picture and post it here. I'll bet I'm not the only one who will benefit from help on this." 
*
Hi Tom:
Heres a couple of shots I took a few minutes ago.
I stuck a piece of cedar on the saw blade backwards just to show how thin you can cut with the right tension and blade. The blade has to be dead on with the table or your cut will be a wedge instead of a slice but that goes for all of them.

The next picture shows how the pivot point adjusts up to the piece being cut and locks in the miter slot.

If you speed more than 4 bucks making this I will have to come and spank you! <vbg>
b


Have fun
Bob


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## TomFran (Jun 19, 2007)

Bob,

That is outstanding! "A picture is worth a thousand words." That is a cool jig! So this is what you use when you resaw some lumber?

So, Bob, on a typical resaw, you would mark your stock on the top and try following the line? Is that correct?

If you were doing multiple cuts, would you cut on the band saw, and then take it over the the jointer and clean it up, and then resaw again, and so forth. Does that sound like the correct procedure?

That is an amazing picture of your resawing 1/4" thick stock!


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## alanealane (Oct 1, 2007)

I apologize for the crude representation of a welding magnet in the CAD drawing. I found this welding magnet on eBay. Sorry I told you you could get one for less than $10--Try the local hardware store, a Fastenal store, or Tractor Supply Company (they usually have clearance sales on tools like this) if you have one near you.


VIEW THIS ITEM ON eBay.

You should be able to find this WAY cheaper from a local supplier---even a flea market or yard/garage sale.
If resawing is what you're in the mood for, I LOVE to use the Wood Slicer from highlandwoodworking.com

This is aviailable in 1/2" and 3/4" widths and in any custom length you want. The variable tooth pattern takes away the SCREAM of resawing thick stock and *leaves a finish that requires very little sanding.*

By the way, to BOB: ditto what Tom just said in the previous post--"That is outstanding!...That is a cool jig!"


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## boboswin (May 23, 2007)

Hi Tom:
Thanks for the accolades- just trying to help.

Let me answer your questions above:
That is outstanding! "A picture is worth a thousand words." That is a cool jig! So this is what you use when you resaw some lumber?

*So, Bob, on a typical resaw, you would mark your stock on the top and try following the line? Is that correct*?
Yes but I would run a short piece of scrap to make sure the top and bottom are cutting at the same place on the board.

*If you were doing multiple cuts, would you cut on the band saw, and then take it over the the jointer and clean it up, and then resaw again, and so forth. Does that sound like the correct procedure?*

Yes that's basically the routine.
I am making a jig today to run the cut stock through the planer to just over the final thickness. 
Let's say 1/16" over. I will take the rest away with my sander.
I don't do this for thicker stock but anything under 3/8"

*That is an amazing picture of your resawing 1/4" thick stock!*
Just don't give me a 6 foot piece. <g>

Regards

Bob


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## TomFran (Jun 19, 2007)

Lane,

Wow, that "Woodslicer" blade must be something to put on the Christmas list!

If it can do that, I want one!


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## TomFran (Jun 19, 2007)

Bob,

Thanks so much for taking the time to answer my questions! I may get this "resawing" thing yet ;^D


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## TomFran (Jun 19, 2007)

Here are a couple other plans I found for resawing which may be helpful for comparison.


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## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

Tom;

A major part of resawing suceessfully requires that the machine be tuned up.

This is true of all machines, and will instill in you a comfort level with each machine.

The knowledge you gain about each machine by doing this will help you as you will be able to "trouble shoot" 
problems as they arise.

I used to approach machines with fear if someting needed to be adjusted. (Long time ago) They seemed big and mysterious, ( course I was only four then).

The confidence gained in doing this will also keep you from guessing, " is it the machine or am I doing something wrong". If the machine is well tuned and has a sharp blade, more than likely, you are doing it wrong.

Here's where what Tom said yesterday really counts. Instead of continous practice, find out what you're doing wrong, correct it, THEN practice. Otherwise you become very good at doing it wrong!

We develope relationships with our machines, and simply by sound or feel, can tell when something's wrong.

I read somewhere yesterday, (I can't remember where), a professional woodworker saying not to wear ear protection because you won't hear what the machine is trying to say. There is truth in that, but I wear hearing protection when doing something that could do damage to my hearing.

I will start keeping the camera closer by.

Lee


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## Hawgnutz (Mar 29, 2007)

Wow, Bob, that is a nice resaw fence. Here is mine, Tom. Pretty gorilla looking compared to Bob's, but it works fine for me and only took about 45 minutes to get it done and aligned.

Here it is on my outside workbench. It is made of 3'4 ply with hardwood for the edge arm tha tvthe wood pivots on and the edge that butts against the bandsaw table.



Here it is apart:


Here it is on bandsaw table. 


Making sure it is square.


Here is one of my "precision" LOL cuts on a repair using fence. I needed to cut this 2X to make a brace for a pipe clamp. I could have used my table saw, but I prefer the bandsaw and I needed an example to include. Prety crude compared to others, but you can see how it works in action.


Email me with your physical address and I will hunt up this pattern for you and send you a copy, if you want it.

God Bless,
Hawg


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## TomFran (Jun 19, 2007)

Hawg,

Thanks for the pictures of your resaw jig!


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## Radish (Apr 11, 2007)

Got to add a kudo for the Woodslicer. Well worth the additional expenses, even over Olson MVPs.
Timberwolf has also gotten good reviews


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Tom:

Here is a picture of my resawing. It's just my regular fence. I bought it at a woodworking show and it was made by a guy in Canada. I own three tubes but I only use 2, because the bearing are quite high up when you get close to the fence.

The blade is the resawing blade from Laguna and is 1 1/4" wide. Carbide teeth and they will resharpen. around $1.00 per inch on the original purchase.

For this test I used a Walnut drawer front that my wife didn't like. It has two holes drilled in it and a profile so it doesn't have much use. It's 6" high and 13" long.

Here is the fence setup 









I set the blade about as close as I dared. to try this test.

Here is the finished cut. This is the second cut the first one had a few burrs on the surface where the screws had been screwed into the wood. But the output results were similar to this one.










You will note the digital calipers reading of the corners and the mid point of the slice.

Note 1/32 of an inch is around .031"

Entry point top .028, entry point bottom .047 So I don't have my blade and fence the same distance at the top and bottom. I'm almost .020 different top to bottom.

Middle of the board top .026 .002 different than entry point, Middle bottom .039 - .008" less than entry.

Exit end top .027 only .002 thousands difference between entry, mid and exit.
Exit bottom .037 very close to the middle thickness. It was thicker at the entry but seemed to stabilize as it went through the board.

The surface on this slice is smooth enough to be glued down as veneer.

You've got to have enough confidence in your equipment to even attempt to slice this close without the blade hitting your fence. I've never run this test before and measured the results. I guess I'll need to realign everything.


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## TomFran (Jun 19, 2007)

Lee,

I hope to get more acquainted with my band saw soon. So far, I'm not even close to using it to full potential. But, that is why I've embarked on finding a suitable jig for resawing. I'm hoping to make a few boxes soon, and am grateful that now I also have a planer, so that all my projects don't have to be 3/4" thick. I intend to resaw some wood and then plane it to thickness. But first, I have to come up with a jig for resawing, and that is what this post was meant to accomplish.

Thanks a lot for your always helpful advice, Lee!


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## TomFran (Jun 19, 2007)

Doug,

Thanks for weighing in on the "Woodslicer" blade. I hope to get one soon.


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## alanealane (Oct 1, 2007)

Karson, good job with that thin of a cut!!!

It can be a real pain tuning up the b-saw because it can take quite a while depending on the machine. But one thing I have come to find very true is to MAKE SURE THE BLADE TRACKS/RIDES ON THE CROWN OF THE WHEELS. Most bandsaw tires create a slight curve across the thickness of the wheel. If the blade is *too far forward*, the ensuing drift will be to the left. If the blade is *too far back*, the drift will be to the right--Y'all get the idea!!

By keeping the blade IN THE MIDDLE of the wheel, that's just one more way to help the problem of drift go away.

For some rather extensive, but helpful steps on getting a bandsaw to run "true," click here.

Check out this awesome website WITH A GREAT VIDEO ABOUT BANDSAW TUNING!!!! I apologize to anyone with dial-up internet who wants to see this video-its quite large.


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## TomFran (Jun 19, 2007)

Karson,

Thanks for your education on how to check if your saw is cutting "true." Those pictures are so instructive! Man, I've really learned a lot here.


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## TomFran (Jun 19, 2007)

Lane,

Thanks for the info on getting the band saw tuned up!


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## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

I would have agree with the other posters about the Woodslicer blade. I use the 3/4" for all my
resawing. Well worth the money. The teeth vary in the number per inch from 3 to 4 which really
breaks up any vibration, and makes for a smooth cut.

I also agree with Lee about having your machine set up right to start with.

Gary


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## TomFran (Jun 19, 2007)

Here are two more jig designs I've located for resawing from an old issue of FWW magazine.


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## TomFran (Jun 19, 2007)

Thanks for weighing in, Gary!

Looks like "Woodslicer" bandsaw blades from Highland Hardware are going to get some orders from this forum topic ;^D

Hey, do they do free shipping at Christmas time…?


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## Herb (Jul 19, 2007)

It's obvious from the many replies that this is one subject that has been researched extensively. I've gone through many pages of the Google search "band saw resawing" and have learned a lot but still have not come to any absolute conclusions. Delta, Jet, Laguna - all seem to have good machines. I like the Laguna DriftMaster fence and am leaning toward one of their 14" or 16" machines. Also, their ceramic guides look exceptional. There are some nice video demonstrations out there. -I'd be interested to hear what saws you have and what you see as the pro's and con's of a particular machine. Especially as it relates to resawing.


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## TomFran (Jun 19, 2007)

Herb,

I have a Grizzly 14" "Deluxe," which I am trying to master. Mine has roller bearings for blade guides which are nice. It also has (2) speeds. I had a Delta before this one, and I like this one better. It really is a good quality machine (IMHO).

As for the resawing aspect, I'm still in "school" on that part, as can be seen from this forum topic. I'm sure others can help you out though.


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## alanealane (Oct 1, 2007)

ONE MORE THING (as if I haven't said enough already).

Olson company makes what is called "Cool Blocks" for many (if not most) brands of bandsaws. They are laminations of resin with graphite impregnated in them. While CERAMIC guides are good, they can't be put close to the teeth without risking flattening the set in the blade. This site lists what saws can be fit with Cool Blocks.

Cool blocks are great all-around, anti-friction guides that are even better if one does scrolling work with a thin blade-like 1/8" wide. (I should be getting paid for this advertisement!!! )


-photos courtesy www.rockler.com

BUT YOU KNOW ME!! I like doing things the *cheap* way, so I followed the advice found here and made my own blade guides out of tight-grained cherry and WD-40! TRY IT!! I can practically bury the teeth in these guides and I keep my set-because they're wood! The WD-40 does not leave any stains or oily residue on the stock I cut-and I can make more anytime for *FREE.* THEY'RE GREAT IF ANYONE IS WILLING TO SPEND 20 MINUTES TO MAKE SOME!!


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## TomFran (Jun 19, 2007)

Lane,

Hey, those are "cool" blocks (pretty corny wasn't it…) ;^D

Neat idea on the cherry, WD-40 impregnated blocks.

Good info!


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## Xrayguy (Jan 15, 2009)

any chance of getting the plans for the resaw fence i have a 17" grizzly that i want to gear up for some resawing, ive tried a couple times with the stock fence but the drift is killing me, even with a lennox 1" 2 teeth per inch blade

Thanks in advance

Brad


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## TomFran (Jun 19, 2007)

Hi Brad,

Which resaw fence were you wanting the plans for, since there are many versions represented in this thread?


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Brad, I use a single point resaw fence on my 17" Grizz. Just sribe a line where you want to cut and follow it. Then you don't have to sweat blade drift. I just attached a pointy piece of maple to my stock resaw fence with2 bolts.


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## oldworld124 (Mar 2, 2008)

Here are some photos of how I approach resawing. It works very well and is quite accurate. None of the veneers were sanded. This particular job netted 100 pounds of cherry veneers. They were cut at 1/8" thick. BTW, they all gauged out to exactly the same thickness. I later edge glued them in sets and then applied them.


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