# Wood Filler



## richgreer (Dec 25, 2009)

First, let me say, that I really don't like to use wood filler. When I use wood filler, it is because I did not get the tight joint I was striving for. Nonetheless, I need to use at least a little wood filler on many of my projects.

Originally, I used a brand called Famowood.  I didn't like the fact that I usually had to stir it before using it and I didn't like the fact that it tended to dry out in the can quite quickly. What I liked is that it dryed very quickly after being applied. I could sand it within 30 minutes of when I applied it.

My second brand was Elmer's, which comes in a plastic tube. It does not have to be stirred. I think it is a little easier to work with. It also dries out in the tube, but at a slower rate than the Famowood. After applying it, it takes at least an hour before you can sand.

Lastly, I tried a can of MinWax. I found it hard to apply and I had to wait until the next day to sand it. I don't know fast it will dry out in the can since I just bought my first can of it. Note - MinWax calls their product "Wood Puddy" as opposed to "Wood Filler".

At this point in time, Elmer's is my favorite of the 3.

How about you?


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## Ripthorn (Mar 24, 2010)

I am not a huge fan of Elmer's, but have not tried the other two. I have used Timbermate and quite like it. It's water-based, so if it dries out in the can, mix in some water. If it freezes, thaw it in the mircrowave and mix in some water if necessary. It works very nicely.


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## TCCcabinetmaker (Dec 14, 2011)

I use Pl Woodpatch which is very similiar to the famowood, cept it's just better…

You don't have to stir it as much though, if you store the cans upside down, flipping over a few minutes before you use it. They are a two part mixture that seperates in the can. The heavier filler will settle to the bottom, while the lighter catalyst will settle to the top, when you flip the can, it causes the two to re-mix by their natural settling motion.

Bad joints aren't the only reason to use wood fillers, sometimes it's good to fill those defects in the boards, or just flat out highlight what you know you'll miss when sanding.


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## richgreer (Dec 25, 2009)

TCC - You are right about needing wood filler for applications other that joints. Just yesterday a pocket hole screw went all the way through the wood. I backed it out, replaced the screw with a shorter one and used wood filler to fill the hole.

It was not a typical joint issue but I was still using filler to hide a mistake.


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## Dcase (Jul 7, 2010)

Rich, is Minwax "Wood Puddy" the same as the Minwax "Wood Filler"?









I am pretty sure they are different but I have never used the Wood Puddy so I don't know. 
I use the Minwax Wood Filler and I find it to work rather well. It will bleed into the wood so I usually tape off around the area I need to fill. Dry time will depend on the amount that you use but I know the last time I used it was to hide a bunch of nail holes and I was able to sand it after a couple hours.


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

Another satisfied Timbermate user, here.


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

TimberMate is great stuff, and beats the heck outa MinWax.
Bill


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

Believe it or not, I use all three of the types you mention, Jim. I find they all have pros and cons… it just depends on the particular situation.

The Elmer's also comes in a tub, and you can add a little water when it starts to dry out.


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## ChunkyC (Jun 28, 2009)

TimberMate.

Pricey but well worth it.

c


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## NiteWalker (May 7, 2011)

I've been using water based famowood and it works great for me. No drying issues for me, but even if it did, you can add a bit of water to renew it.
I plan to try the timbermate very soon.

I used elmer's a long while back on painted projects and it worked fine. Availability is it's strong suit.


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## donjohn24 (Oct 15, 2010)

Over in the UK when I was a lad, THE product was Brummer

It is still around, and (before the tin dries out) is very effective and fast drying - in minutes not hours.

I think it needs cellulose thinners - or something similar - to moisten it, but I await correction.

Certainly, water ruins it!


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## Sawkerf (Dec 31, 2009)

I use Famowood and will sometimes mix colors to get the shade I need. A bit of Acetone stirred into the can brings it back to like new.


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## wooddon (Jul 11, 2007)

Hide glue and sawdust


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## bobasaurus (Sep 6, 2009)

I use either DAP Plastic Wood, or just regular Titebond glue mixed with sawdust (sometimes I just smear the dust in with my finger after spreading glue over a crack/gap/etc).


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## dfletcher (Jan 14, 2010)

Hmmm, I prefer the Elmer's wood filler that you get in the little canisters. It goes on easily, dries quickly and doesn't seem to dry out in the container.

I often use it when i do "paintable" trim work, where I just need to fill in holes or such. I have also used it for repairs, when a chunk of wood has been broken off. I will glue it back on and reshape the area with it, then sand it to the correct shape.

Works really well for me.

The minwax wood putty I use doesn't get hard. It is used to fill in after the stain and such is on. It is meant to cover up nail holes and such and blend in with the color.


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## Woodwrecker (Aug 11, 2008)

Minwax wood filler.
I don't like using it either, but sometimes it's unavoidable.
Good topic Rich.


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## Gregn (Mar 26, 2010)

Not a fan of wood fillers either, that's not to say that there aren't times I to need to use wood filler. I have used several with not to many to my liking much. Generally if I need to use any amount of wood filler anymore I just use glue and sawdust. In the last few years if I just need to fill a couple of nail holes. I use one of those wood fillers that look like a large crayon that comes in different colors. I can stain the project then just use the crayon to fill the nail holes with before I put a finish coat on.


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## doninvegas (Jun 10, 2010)

Another vote for TimberMate. Here in Vegas things dry out rather quickly. Just add a little water and it's good to go.


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## Dal300 (Aug 4, 2011)

Bondo, food coloring or wood dye and sawdust.


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## smitty22 (May 1, 2010)

Rich, Tried most all of them over the years, for most woodwork I always go back to DAP 21502 Plastic Wood Solvent Wood Filler. It is not 'plastic' but instead cellulose- (wood fibers) and solvent-based so dries fast, stains and sands easily.

That said, for highly-visible repairs needing finish-quality filler, I use one-hour epoxy and sawdust from the workpiece, just make a good thick paste, and make sure it's totally set before sanding. If not, the heat from sanding really gums up the sandpaper!

I only buy DAP in the 4oz cans since it will dry out over the long term. As someone above mentioned, store the can lid-down, helps the need for mixing. As I remember, the last can bought actually had the label printed upside down! 
Cheers, 
Dale


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

I use Elmers, but I am not particulary happy with it. I store all those type of products upside down, like Smitty says. Think I will try to find some Timbermate.


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

I like to mix my own using sawdust from the piece of wood it is going to be used on and hide glue. Gives a perfect color match.


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## Finn (May 26, 2010)

I use Elmer's white glue and wood powder from my orbital sander or better yet, mix this wood powder with the finish I plan to use. Lacquer mostly. That way after it dries and I sand it and put the finish on it there is zero chance that any white glue I missed in my sanding showing up under the finish.


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## oakview (Dec 12, 2011)

+1 for glue and sawdust . Yellow glue for lighter woods, brown glue for darker woods. I save clean, various wood species sawdust in different cottage cheese containers so I don't have to go scrounging.

I'll have to try the idea of mixing the sawdust with the finish - never thought of that. Great idea Jim!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Great topic, learning so much in these responses. Thanks, LJs!


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## JohnnyM (Jan 6, 2012)

Glue mixed with the sanding dust of the piece I'm working on. If it is going to be stained, I add stain to the dust to bring it up to color before mixing it with the glue.

It never dries out since I make it on the fly. It always matches the wood color. I never find myself with out filler if I need it.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Every time I have tried the glue/sawdust to fill cracks, knots, etc, it turns out MUCH darker than the surrounding wood. I use TB III for the glue. What am I doing wrong?


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## oakview (Dec 12, 2011)

Certainly everyone does it slightly differently, but this works for me.

Only if it's a really dark wood, like walnut, will I use TB III, otherwise I use TB II, or a white glue if it's really light wood. I'll use fine router shavings if I have 'em since they present the wood color more easily. Mix just enough glue to bring the mixture together, like a real thick wood filler, then pack it into the repair and immediately rub the surface with more shavings or sawdust. Let it dry a while and sand flush. Seems to work well every time for me.


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