# Tips & Tricks: Cutting Perfect Angles



## MsDebbieP (Jan 4, 2007)

What are your "tips and tricks" (and challenges) re: *cutting/sawing wood on exact angles* (ex. 90 degrees)



*Gateway to all Tips & Tricks Topics*


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## joeybealis (Jul 16, 2011)

Never had any tricks to cut perfect angles just the basics. Good square wood and your tools set up right.


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## donbee (Feb 7, 2009)

I use a sled on my table saw.
Check the angle on the miter saw frequently.

On other angles, (45, 22.5) I have fixed angle sleds.

My secret?

Never use the miter guage that comes with the saw.


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## ajosephg (Aug 25, 2008)

Osborne miter gauge


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## mainwoodworks (Feb 24, 2011)

Take as long as it takes to set up your, table saw, radial saw, or chop saw. The closer the tolerance you can get it, the better the results will be. Check your angles with a drafting triangle. I use a 30 60 90 degree and a 45 90 degree triangle. They are not expensive and are very accurate.

As for the scroll saw, I find it easier to follow the pattern if it is printed in cyan or magenta. The contrasting color from the black blade, makes it much easier to see where the blade is on the pattern. I also have found that putting a screw in each corner (off of the pattern of course) helps me control the turning of a ganged project. And of course keep the bed of all saws waxed ( use "Mothers" wax).

Hope some of this helps


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## MsDebbieP (Jan 4, 2007)

I was reading a book on *Intarsia* and they were showing how to put two pieces together and then cut them at the same time to create the "perfect fit".
I've never done it so can't be more specific than that.

Now that I think of it, I think someone had posted something similar a few years ago re: cutting two pieces at the same time to always have the perfect "angle" on matching pieces (regardless of what the angle is).

What is the "real" information for this? (As I'm relying on my limited memory and skills)


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## BobTheFish (May 31, 2011)

Ms. Debbie, you do the same for veneers. Lay the one sheet over top the other both face side up, with the edges you want cut lined up, tape the sheets together, then cut through both sheets at the same time. What it does is accommodate for any human error or blade wiggle, because the two pieces will have the same "imperfections" at the same place. The imperfections are complimentary, so they fit together just as perfectly.

I have yet to master it, but it DOES make much more precisely fitting cuts.


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Dennis did something like that on stack cutting on the music box he posted.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

Debbie, Yoiu stole me thunder ;-)) Guess I am now tipless ;-((


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## MsDebbieP (Jan 4, 2007)

oops  Sorry T.S.


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

Shooting boards can be used to trim the wood after cuts, making angles exact…..


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## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

bentlyj,

*COOL TIP!*


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## glue4you (Aug 11, 2011)

Strange thing I find is: The older the machines the better the results. Bought a DW320 radial arm saw recently. Set it up once, works fine. If I do the same with my 2001 table saw I can adjust, double check, measure twice and cut once. But once I cut, it's out of square. I still hope it's not me.

I do what bentlyj suggests: I make test cuts on scrap.

In addition, I find these Japanese razor saws with the fixed angle guides (the ones with the magnets that you clamp on) really helpful. Have one for cutting dovetails and will soon buy one for perfect 90 and 45 degree cuts. I like the fact that you don't have to check anything apart from one straight edge on your stock, but you need that anyway. If you use a saw with inline teeth there's no way you could possibly screw up that cut. Problem with that technique is, that you can't easily batch out multiples as with a ts and stop blocks. If you need consistent lenghts you have to find a way to achieve that.


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## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

glue4you:

*"with the fixed angle guides"*

Could you please post a link to some of those?

Sounds good…

Thank you.


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## Grumpy (Nov 9, 2007)

If you don't have a mitre saw there is a very simple way to get the perfect cut.
1. Mark your mitres and cut with a hand saw.
2. put your two cut pieces together
3. If there are any gaps run a thin blade like a hacksaw or pull saw through the joint.
4. Keep repeating the process until you have a perfect joint.


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## Finn (May 26, 2010)

msdebbie; .................. I cut two pieces of wood at a time a lot. This is how I do inlays. Just tilt the table 3.7 degrees and after cutting the top piece drops into the bottom one perfectly. (This is called Double Bevel Inlay) With the table level I have done intarsia by stack cutting different types of wood for a perfect fit. Easy to do. Both intarsia and inlay came out perfect the first try.


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## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

Jim Finn:

*"Just tilt the table 3.7 degrees and after cutting the top piece drops into the bottom one perfectly. "*

Is this just for 3/4" stock or what? Does it change with thickness?

Never thought of using a TS to that!... sounds cool!


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## GaryC (Dec 31, 2008)

I couldn't find 3.7 on anything I have….


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## glue4you (Aug 11, 2011)

@Joe
Sorry, I forgot to subscribe  I only have German links for that. Google suggested the following: link

But I don't know this special jig. As it is adjustable there is again a possibility for screwing things up. Just posted it to show you the principle behind it.


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## glue4you (Aug 11, 2011)

@Joe
Me again, I forgot the non-magnetic ones as also included in the following link: more saw guides

Hope this helps!

I have once tried both types in a shop, both worked great, but I didn't measure angles afterwards  It might actually be possible to build one of these yourself. All it would need would be a stable jig with exact angles (plywood should do the trick) and these extra strong magnets you can buy on the internet epoxied in place. Maybe also some plastic for the blade to slide on depending on the wear it's gonna get. I'd leave a rabbet at the bottom of the sliding face (fence with the magnets) so that the teeth don't scratch against it.

Just an idea!


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## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

Glue4you… That link (1st one… with long url) was No Good… Not Found… 404…
... Works great now! Thank you!

The last post was GOOD! Non magnetic… COOL guides!

Thank you very much!

Yes, Rare Earth magnets would work real good for that… Wouldn't be very hard to make… at all!
Thanks for the good ideas! (I have some of those magnets on hand… they're COOL!)


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## glue4you (Aug 11, 2011)

@Joe
Sorry, I'm still new to LJ. Now the links are working


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

Those saw guides look like a mini version of the miter boxes that used to come with a back saw in them. I think we may have come full circle ;-)L I bet they work very good when set up at what ever yoiu want to cut.


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## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

Glue4you:

*Alex,* you know the *ONLY critical* angle in cutting dovetails is the *90 degree* front-to-back angle *or* 90 degree up-down angle… *NOT* the Tail or Pin angles.

*For example (cutting tails first):*

*1. *Take any angle tool and set it so it looks good to you… actual degrees makes no dif.

*2. * Draw your angled tail lines down to the thickness line… *anywhere you want them.*.. *to form Tails.*.. leaving a *1/2 tail space at each end for a 1/2 Pin.* Mark 'X' in waste areas.

*3. *Draw lines from Tail top edges 90 degrees across the top to the other side.

*4. *Now, make the cuts… *following two lines at the same time* (will result in *EXACTLY 90 degrees to the top edge..*) . and of course on the lines. In other words, the sizes of the Tails want to be the same size on the inside as on the outside. Remove waste sections to leave tails.

*5. *Now, you use the Tails to Draw the Pins onto the end of Pin board keeping things nice & square & inline (*you must NOT change any angles*).

*6. *Transfer from Pin edge points Down 90 degrees to the depth line. Mark 'X' in waste areas.

*7. *Now, you make the cuts… per the Tail drawn lines… Cutting, *following two lines at the same time,* cuts a *PERFECT 90 degree* angle *Down the board.* ... clean out the waste.

In short, you're always cutting on a line, *which is at some meaningless angle*, as well as *on a line at a Critical 90 degree angle.*

*So, why spend all that money to cut Dovetails? LOL*


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## glue4you (Aug 11, 2011)

@Joe
So you are suggesting I should use butt joints instead??? Just kidding. After re-reading your post about three times, trying to generate the necessary pictures for the whole operation in my head, I think I understand what you mean. To be honest, dovetails are rocket science to me and that's the reason why I got the magnetic saw guides. It would need a project involving a couple of selfmade drawers to get into that. Maybe the real reason why I haven't started on it is that I know that the first dovetails will take their time. I have tried handcut finger joints on a small box project in soft wood and ended up using the table saw to straighten my handcuts. After ruining two side pieces it took me a whole day to put together that really simple box. OK, I had to read manuals for the band saw, planer and table saw and do all kinds of adjustment and calibration (all of them had been terribly abused by the technical staff of our school authorities) as it was my first real woodworking project. But it was somehow frustrating to experience such a slow progress.
Well, I have improved on my patience and overall skills since then. There's hope  I will print out your guide before I start.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

*glue4you* sound like you need to just practice making square straight cuts until it becomes natural. Being in the trade, I have worked with hand tools my whole life. Cutting square with a hand saw is just natural like walking. If you make a few good square cuts on a board every day for a few months, I bet you will acquire the ability sooner than you imagine.


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## glue4you (Aug 11, 2011)

@TopamaxSurvivor
That sounds like a good idea. When making square cuts in a board I usually get one orientation right. The upper face (what I see from above) is usually OK. It's in the downward direction it gets out of square. I may have to try a different saw too as my Japanese saws have nearly round handles. It's hard to "feel" anything during the cut. I also get the impression that forcing it by eye on a pencil line creates even worse results.

My problem is that I don't find the time for regular activity in the shop. It's usually one or two small projects every school holidays. It's not only because of work, I need time for the kid(s) as well.

I remember taking my son (3 yrs) with me to the shop earlier this year where he tried to "help daddy" clean the wood chips out of the running thickness planer. I got him before he could get anywhere near the danger zone and I had been watching him carefully always ready to stop him from doing something stupid. But that's like working as a bodyguard and cabinetmaker at the same time. I've learned my lesson!

He already knows the names of tools that most people will probably never get to know. He's got his own set of (relatively) safe hand tools and there will be a day when we can practise square cuts together.



> If you make a few good square cuts on a board every day for a few months


How long would that board have to be approximately?  Sorry, just couldn't resist.

Thanks for all the good tips! I appreciate it.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

You don't have to cut much off, Just take a 1×4 and cut half way through like you are making a tenon or something like that. I got the idea from shooting coaching. Just 10 good shots a day. Or dry firing, don't even have to go to the range.

A friend of mine ask me how to become a better offhand shot. I told him physical conditioning since he was a computer jockey. He worked at it but didn't improve much. He lost his job, became a general contractor. He was working every day and didn't have much time to practice. Just working physically everyday improved him more than all of his practicing. Of course, he was shooting a 13 pound rifle 200 yards offhand. I doubt if that would make that much difference sawing squarely unless you are hand sawing to frame houses or decks all day every day ;-))


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## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

glue4you:

If you draw those two lines, all different ways, and start cutting at a corner, following two lines at once, you will get the feel fast. IMHO…

You're doing good… keep it up!


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## joe47 (Aug 8, 2009)

I have two tricks for perfect angles depending upon the size of the board. On larger boards I mark the angle and cut close to the line with a band saw, circular saw, etc. I then clamp a straight edged board on the line and clean up the board with a router and pattern bit. For smaller stock, I have made a cut-off board similar to a cross-cut sled. I mark the angle on the bottom side of the piece, line up the line with the edge of the board and secure it to the sled. Run it through the TS and get a perfect angle. You can add toggle clamps and stops for dead on repeat cuts. I hope I have explained it well enough to be of help.


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

I've had a Woodhaven Miter for about 5 years. I won it in a contest on their web site. But I was never able to use it because my table saw had a 1" X 1/4" slot.

I recently brought a Grizzly table saw to life and I got the Miter working. When I looked on their web site they now have a Vernier scale on the miter gauge so I just updated it. It allows you to get to 0.1 deg derivation off a angle. Looks to be a great setup.


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