# sharpening jointer and planer knives



## MNWOODWORKER (Aug 1, 2008)

The place I have my knives sharpened just uped the cost and I am looking at getting a system to sharpen my knives for my planer and jointer. I was given a link to sharpen them in a shop made jig. I am going to give it a try. http://www.superwoodworks.com/Projects/JKnifeJig.htm What do any of you suggest for this task. I would like to stay out of the Tormek area due to the cost of the machine and added $160 for the knife jig. The Jet is a bit cheaper, but would like to hear what you suggest.
Thanks,
Nate


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## JohnGray (Oct 6, 2007)

Thanks for the post!! I have some blades that need touching up so I'm looking for advice.


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## jeh412 (Feb 27, 2009)

The jig in your link is a great idea. That should be an easy, cheap and fairly fast method of sharpening. I have a sharpener built on the Jet pattern that works well for chisels but isn't the greatest for jointer knives.


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## 8iowa (Feb 7, 2008)

If you have a friend near-by who has a Shopsmith, you can make a simple jig to clamp the knife into and sharpen it on the conical disk sander. (Shopsmith has a jig, but it may or may not work for your knives.) You can accurately set the table to the proper angle and use the fence to run the blade held jig past the sanding surface. I use a 150 grit Aluminum Oxide disk and then lightly, by hand, final hone the edge on a 8000 grit wet stone.

This is a fast and accurate way to sharpen knives. Frankly, the conical disk is so handy I dont know why it is not widely available. Regardless, do not try to use the flat disk. This would be dangerous.

If you were in my area, I would invite you over, and I could have your knives sharpened faster than you could drink two cups of coffee.

I found a picture that probably describes the proceedure much better than I did above;


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## cmaeda (Sep 1, 2008)

This is what I use:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2419&filter=knife%20sharpener
It does work really well but it won't take out nicks and gouges. Every 5th or 6th sharpening, I still take it to a pro to get it sharpened. I guess I don't have to but it makes me feel better to do it that way.


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## 8iowa (Feb 7, 2008)

Nate:

I just received a new set of knives for my Shopsmith Pro-Planer. They measure .750" wide. A old spare set, that had been sharpened just one time by a professional sharpening service, measures only .728". I've learned a lesson here. Sharpening services can unnecessarily grind away years and years of life away from your blades. You can bet your life that from now on I'll use the conical sanding disk and the jig to sharpen my planer and jointer knives - only taking away a few thousands at a time.


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## dusty2 (Jan 4, 2009)

I use the same system as does 8iowa. I sharpen probably more frequently than would be absolutely necessary but it is so simple to do as so effective. As 8iowa has reported, each pass takes only a couple thousands off the blades.

The two sets of each (planer and jointer) that I have should last as long as I'll be using my Shopsmith Mark V 520 and the supporting jointer and planer.

I use this same fixture to sharpened jointer blades. All three blades can be set into the jig simultaneously making for a perferctly matched set of jointer blades./

The planer blades require just a bit more care when setting up.


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## dusty2 (Jan 4, 2009)

I use the same system as does 8iowa. I sharpen probably more frequently than would be absolutely necessary but it is so simple to do as so effective. As 8iowa has reported, each pass takes only a couple thousands off the blades.

The two sets of each (planer and jointer) that I have should last as long as I'll be using my Shopsmith Mark V 520 and the supporting jointer and planer.

I use this same fixture to sharpened jointer blades. All three blades can be set into the jig simultaneously making for a perfectly matched set of jointer blades./

The planer blades require just a bit more care when setting up.

Repeating 8iows's caution, do not attempt what you see in the photo here using a flat disk. The conical disk is a necessity.


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## MNWOODWORKER (Aug 1, 2008)

Thanks for the warning, to me it looks alot like a fixture I could make using a very fine abrasive disk on the faceplate for my lathe and a homemade jig for bed. I was told that it will only work on a conical disk sander, what is the difference??? I know nothing or have ever seen a shopsmith in person so I am confused and very curious. Could someone share some info? I am still going to try the method shown on the http://www.superwoodworks.com/Projects/JKnifeJig.htm site first with a few variations that I have thought would make it somewhat better. 
Thanks so much for your time.
Nate


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## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

I have the Tormek and unlike 3fingerpat I had great success with it. I did the blades for my 6" jointer.


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## 8iowa (Feb 7, 2008)

Nate:

The flat disk should only be used on the downward side so that your stock is pressed down on the table. Once you get to the far side, the disk wants to lift your work, perhaps allowing it to fly out of control. With sharp knives in the jig this would be dangerous.

The conical disk, while even at a glance it appears to be the same as a flat disk, operated quite differently. Here, the only contact with the stock is on a straight line from the center of rotation vertically. Not only can the conical disk sharpen jointer and planer knives, but it can "joint" the edges of some types of wood that you can't joint in the jointer ( ie: plywood and swirling burl / highly figured wood.

As I have said before, I don't understand why the conical disk is not offered by more manufacturers.


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## Garry (Oct 5, 2006)

Hello Nate,

" 
I am still going to try the method shown on the http://www.superwoodworks.com/Projects/JKnifeJig.htm site first with a few variations that I have thought would make it somewhat better.

" 
I am the one that made the jig in the link you have provided, It is fool proof and works well but I would be interested in seeing your improvements. Please keep me informed.

Garry


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## MarktheWoodButcher (May 14, 2009)

I am not an expert on jointer care. In fact I am just learning on my first jointer. The manual for my 1950's vintage jointer shows a method for routine blade sharpening. It's on the bottom left of page #7. I don't know if blade technology has changed so much that this method might not work on newer machines.

http://owwm.com/pubs/1141/490.pdf


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## thelt (Feb 23, 2009)

WoodButcher, that method sounds logical. But, I'm pretty sure I don't want my fingers that close to the cutters while they are turning at speed. It looks to be a whole lot dangerous.


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## laflaone (Apr 28, 2008)

I sharpen my jointer knives in a homemade jig very similar to the Veritas jig sold at LV. Made my own, since I just couldn't justify $63.00 plus shipping. I use the scary sharp method. Just like a chisel or hand plane blade, it is important to first flatten the back. I use a piece of oak, flattened first, then use double sided carpet tape to affix all three blades at one time, and flatten the backs. Only need to do it once.

As far as my planer knives, I just buy new ones for $20 from Lowes. My Delta planer indexes the blades, so I cannot adjust for variations in width which would result in sharpening.


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## FEDSAWDAVE (Jan 1, 2009)

I think at this point I shall take my $75,000.00 sharpener for planer & jointer knives and put it on e-bay. Either that, or charge double for straightening knives that others have attempted (which we already do come to think of it)


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

If you can find a great sharpening service. It's worth the money to let an expert getting it done. I'll do my own chisels and planer blades. But when i want it flat. I'll let the expert do it.


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

I use my old and trusty Makita horizontal sharpener. Been around for years, tried and true design, relatively inexpensive (bought it used for $150.00 years ago).
Bill


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## RouterManiac (Jun 1, 2009)

Here is what I do and its really not posted anywhere. I send my blades out to be sharpened. I actually found the guy on Ebay and they do excellent work with a quick turnaround. I try to keep a double set of bits that I use a lot and an extra set of planer and jointer blades. This way I have a sharp set ready to go and I send the dull ones to the sharpener. He rocks.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

I do mine in a low tech way. I only have two blades on my planer, so this works well for me. I just have a hardwood board with two slots as thick as the planer blades and at the same bevel angle and pointed towards each other. This leaves the blade bevels sitting flat on top of the board and very slightly proud of it. I then use a diamond sharpening stone with two grits, one on each site and held in a plastic stand which I use as a sort of handle to hone the blades with from above. It isn't fancy, but it's fast and it does work. I like the price too. Good idea above about lapping the back of the blades first.


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

when i worked in the boating world , an old cuban master " cuco " , took the blades out of the jointer one day and sharpen them one the stationary belt sander , by hand !
he held them tilted to the angle and inline with the moving paper , and slightly angled then into the incoming
paper . just enough to flatten them and remove any nicks , then finished with a sharpening stone by hand !
i worked with these guys for 10 years , they didn't know anything about our methods , just did what was at hand !
my ryobi 10" planer has a little holder that holds both knives and you move it over the flat emery paper sharpening both .
i would think a wooden holder with 2 , 3 , or 4 slots at angle would work pretty good this way and you can put in vice and sharpen with file followed with stone , as they all together ( spaced apart ) will keep everything flat .
put some of that blue dye the machinest use on the edges to see any low spots .
.
just a thought , work safe my friends !


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## JKB (Jun 7, 2009)

Please help, have a Dewalt DW734 Planer and the blades go dull very often, run lots of mostly hardwoods, only to a quarter of a turn….......knocks out reset all the time even with the quarter of a turn.

Can I sharpen these blades, to replace them so often is so expensive? What can I do?

Thanks for any help or advise you can give me


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## SASmith (Mar 22, 2010)

Here is my solution:








http://lumberjocks.com/projects/58355


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

Go to the search window above in this page and insert scary sharp GarageWoodWorks. He shows you how to make the jig to hold the knife for sharpening and also how to use it. very informative


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## Guss (Sep 19, 2011)

this is what i use it works really good i take it my blades to 600 grit and it puts a nice edge on them 
http://www.amazon.com/Deulen-Jointer-Planer-Knife-Sharpening/dp/B004VDK692


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## dem45133 (Jan 8, 2012)

Good day all. New member here. I'll be looking up the suggestions here for sharpening my Shopsmith Pro planner. It cost a couple bucks more than the competition a few years back… but its serviced me well for the past 16 years or so. It gets sporadic use when I get into a project… but most of the time its tucked away in its storage hole in the shop. My shop is multifuction but only 30×30 so many of my specific floor stand tools have to be on dollies and get put away when doing other types of projects. I did manage to finally find antique machining equipment too a while ago… since they weigh in at 2500 lbs a piece… they are stationary. Took forty years but I finally have an all purpose shop… and a separate hot shop for hot work. But I do enjoy woodworking and last summer I started what has turned into a massive remodel - restoration effort on our 105 year old home. Restoring all the old Georgian wideboard trim (I better not hear ANYONE talk about painting over 100 year old shellac… 6 coats of paint I had to remove, but most of it is gorgeous Douglas Fir (or real similar) and the floors are 3 1/4×3/4 T&G Douglas. When we pulled the old lathe plaster down from the ceiling we discovered what the Douglas Fir on our floors looks like from the bottom (5 to seven layers of other crap still on top)... beautiful and all the framing is rough saw full dimension red oak (reportedly from our woods back then). So… Nope, not putting up sheet rock. The eaves were not Douglas Fir so I went looking for flooring to match… Surprisingly Menards had some with the single relief groove that will match our 100 year old stuff. The patena will be slight off, but surprisingly the original is very clean and bright yet. *I am likely the only one on the planet that ever bought flooring for the purpose of matching the bottom!* But that's where they put the ink stamping so I have to run them through the planner once to remove it. I am wire-brushing all the surfaces of the rough sown red oak floor joists to brighten (and to remove the residues from a few that were used first as forms for the foundation before they built). Then its all gets varathane (or


> ??, suggestions


?)... including the wooden "x" bracing. It will be unique and different so naturally I like the idea!!! But when I attempted this I discovered that my knives are badly in need of sharpening (never have been in 16 years.. yea, I know, its way way overdue… but sitting out in an unheated not all that weather tight shop in Ohio is not very good for them either.) I will order a set of new ones… but I'll sharpen the old ones as a spare set.

This looks like a neat site and I look forward to future discussions on various wood projects. I know a few things, so might be able to help… but i all honesty I'll likely gain a lot more from those that do wood working more often than I.

Regards, Dave


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