# Mortise methods



## GrantA (Jul 19, 2014)

I'm using a drill press and cleaning up with chisels, looking to speed up the process! If it's still available there's a powermatic nearby that they're asking $1100 for (floor standing not benchtop). That's more than I want to spend but if I'll hate a benchtop model then maybe I should jump on that 
I'll be cutting mortises from 1/4-3/4 wide, it seems the most common complaint on benchtop models is the hold down. 
Them there's the domino… Looks like that'll cost a grand really.
Looking for feedback here, thanks!


----------



## wuddoc (Mar 21, 2008)

If you are near enough to Atlanta IWF2018 is coming up soon and the companies or distributors usually have show specials.

The more horsepower the easier it is to create a larger mortise. Keep in mind if you are making a through mortise check the chisel lengths offered.


----------



## redlee (Apr 11, 2016)

https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/tools/benchtop-mortisers

Why not look at one of these for that price you could get a nice dedicated mortiser.

Or get the domino.


----------



## runswithscissors (Nov 8, 2012)

I'm guessing the Domino wouldn't make 3/4" mortises very easily. Probably have to move the fence to get a wider mortise. And aren't they limited in depth capacity? Not that I would mind having one.

I tried a drill press mortiser, and like most people, I immediately saw its limitations. I bought a Delta bench top, and modified it to have an X-Y table that works very well, and toggle clamps for quickly securing and releasing the stock. Proved to be a great asset when making several hundred (small-1/2" x 1/4", and shallow) mortises for louvered doors. The toggle clamps held strongly enough that there was no problem with lifting of the work. Oh I also used it to mortise the stiles for the rails (3 per door-36 total).

Though some machines let you rotate the head for angled mortises, all you need is to offset (rotate) the chisel when you mount it. For the louvers, the mortises had to be on a slant.

I do admire the stationary mortisers, but my budget and needs don't justify them.


----------



## Sludgeguy (Jan 24, 2018)

I use spiral upcut router bits and a guide. Depth is limited but it's fast and clean.


----------



## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Ummmm…









Afraid mine are of the cordless style…..


----------



## GrantA (Jul 19, 2014)

Richard I'm not sure I'm following you I am considering a dedicated machine 
Bandit that's my preference but I'd love to save some time, maybe I just need more practice though


----------



## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

There is a series of videos on youtube.."Traditional Chinese Woodworking" GE Hong. Might want to watch that old fellow do a through mortise….in about the time it took to type this out…..


----------



## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

I have a new bench top type machine. I used it quite a bit building two Morris chairs and ottomans. The wood was QSWO. The mortises were all 3 5/8 deep and 3/4 wide. I first tried hogging them out with just the mortiser. No go. So, I used a 5/8 forstner to make a few holes about half way through, leaving enough wood between the holes for the mortiser bit to grab. It was still hard working but, they got the job done. A floor model would be much easier.


----------



## BigMig (Mar 31, 2011)

Depending on your long term needs, maybe a router and whiteside bits?


----------



## GrantA (Jul 19, 2014)

The one I found is about 3 hours drive away (one way). It's a PM719t in like new condition (used for two jobs supposedly). He wants $1100 and doesn't want to judge. I'm torn. I offered $700 but no go

I've thought about the router method but I'd prefer square mortises and I would like to be able to just follow a line, for random sizes I've marked out. I'm mostly debating whether a benchtop machine would leave me wanting more


----------



## Kirk650 (May 8, 2016)

I have used my entry level Jet benchtop mortiser for years. It does fine work and I have no complaints. That said, it would be nice to have a few extra capabilities. Mortising at an angle would really be good. I can compensate for not having a head unit that angles, so it isn't a huge deal. A better table would be nice.

So, I do just fine with what I have, but if I was buying a new unit, I'd get a higher level mortiser. But $1100 is a bit stout for something I don't use every month.


----------



## EarlS (Dec 21, 2011)

I actually went with the Leigh M&T jig. You can buy a set of square tenon templates and then square up the mortises by hand. The best feature is that the mortise and tenon are both cut from the same template so they have a nice tight fit. Of course, the downside is the price and you are limited by the templates for sizes.

Otherwise, reviews on the Powermatic benchtop mortise are good and it isn't so expensive.


----------



## GrantA (Jul 19, 2014)

Yeah I was just reading about the leigh this morning then realized it costs as much as the 719t I'm considering


----------



## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

I use a plunge router with a simple shop made jig. It is 2 or three times faster than the drill press and paring chisel method.


----------



## ChuckC (May 13, 2010)

I have the Powermatic 701 bench top and have had no issues with the hold down. It doesn't get used a lot but I'm happy that I have it when I do.


----------



## GrantA (Jul 19, 2014)

You guys that use a router - do you square the mortise after or round over the tenon? Or are you cutting all mortises and using loose tenon stock?


----------



## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

Mine were thru mortises. So, had to have square exit. Plus, they were too deep for a router bit. The router method would be faster, for sure, for non thru tenons.


----------



## Bill_Steele (Aug 29, 2013)

I agree with others-a router is a viable option. There are plans available for jigs that will help guide the router. Here is one I made that is loosely based on the Bill Hylton jig.



















One thing to consider with loose tenon joinery is that you need tenon material that is the appropriate width and thickness for the selected bit. If you use the same router bit then that simplifies it somewhat. I'm planning on making a change to my jig that will enable me to quickly setup the jig to cut a specific width-that way I can have some tenon stock on hand that will fit exactly and I won't have to spend time fine tuning the tenon stock.


----------



## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

What are you building Grant? I'm wondering how often you are cutting M&Ts? I'm the first one to burn up some electrons when it's the easiest way to get the job done. But for M&Ts, I cut maybe 2 dozen a year. Bench chisels get the job done well and pretty effectively. If I were cutting them all the time, I'd drop the cabbage on a mortiser. But if you're only doing them at a hobbyists frequency, I can think of A LOT of things I'd rather spend a grand on. Just my $.02.


----------



## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

There are also "corner" chisels out there…..they will chop a square corner with ease. Currently, I do have a 1" Corner chisel. But, they come in about any width you'd need.


----------



## EarlS (Dec 21, 2011)

I like the rounded look on thru tenons so I don't do anything to the ones I cut on the Leigh M&T jig. I'm using it for the handles on the mallets I'm making and it is a real time saver (12 mallets, 1 set up, that includes both the mortise in the head and the tenon on the handle, 1/2×1x2).

On larger tenons, say for a table base, I will use the table saw and dado stack to make the tenon and use the crappy Delta drill press mortise for the corners, then set up a jig for the router to clear out the rest of the mortise. It's a pain the butt to get everything set up so the joints are tight.

I've learned the hard way that usually you get what you pay for and the Leigh M&T vs. the Delta drill press mortiser proves the point.


----------



## GrantA (Jul 19, 2014)

Kenny it's for various furniture pieces, desk legs right this minute, I'm already done with those mortises though just on final shaping now. After thinking about it more I'm not considering the big one anymore but am looking at a benchtop unit or just building a router jig. 
2 questions for y'all - on say a Powermatic benchtop can I Rotate the chisel 45 degrees so it'll cut a diamond more or less? That would be awesome for a wine rack I've got to put together. 
Reading the article pitting the benchtop machines against each other (wood mag maybe) brought up something I haven't considered. I work with old heart pine that's full of resin often. They commented that the hollow chisel bits would get clogged, smoke & turn blue. In that case a spiral router bit may outperform the hollow chisel. Thoughts?


----------



## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

> You guys that use a router - do you square the mortise after or round over the tenon? Or are you cutting all mortises and using loose tenon stock?
> 
> - GrantA


I round over the tenons, it is much faster than trying to square up the mortise. I will square up the mortise only when making through mortises.


----------



## runswithscissors (Nov 8, 2012)

Of course you can rotate the chisel to any degree you want. I find that the surest way to align the chisel with the work (when I want a straight mortise) is to lightly clamp a straight edge to the face of the chisel. Then align the straight edge to the work or the fence. Especially helpful on small chisels-1/4" and 5/16". 5/16", by the way, is my preferred size for M & T joints in 3/4" stock.


----------



## GrantA (Jul 19, 2014)

Thanks Dave it felt like a silly question but I didn't know if it had a notch or anything so it could only go in one way.


----------



## DBDesigns (May 29, 2018)

Anybody else do this with a Delta drill press jig? I don't really cut that many but I have an upcoming project that will require leg mortises for a bedside table and I was planning on using my jig. Same hollow chisels as the dedicated machines use but dependent on the power/speed/lack there of from the drill press.

I can rotate and cut diamonds with the jig but I can't answer that question for the benchtop machines.

Cheers


----------



## DBDesigns (May 29, 2018)

Anybody else do this with a Delta drill press jig? I don't really cut that many but I have an upcoming project that will require leg mortises for a bedside table and I was planning on using my jig. Same hollow chisels as the dedicated machines use but dependent on the power/speed/lack there of from the drill press.

I can rotate and cut diamonds with the jig but I can't answer that question for the benchtop machines.

Cheers


----------



## GrantA (Jul 19, 2014)

Ok so after looking at all the benchtop models I really wanted the powermatic benchtop 701. I really like the toolless nature of it. The price (seeems to be $550 everywhere) was the only thing hard to swallow. I checked Amazon though and they had one in the warehouse deals section, listed as used -very good. I've had good luck before and when something hasn't been right they've taken care of me so fingers crossed I actually get a usable 701 for $403!
Now I need a couple hollow chisel setups - CMT Ok? Other recommendations? Spend the money on the powermatic chisels? I see they're made in Japan which I equate with good, I'm not sure where the cmt ones are made


----------



## TungOil (Jan 16, 2017)

With a hollow chisel mortiser it pays to buy a good set of chisels. The PM are good quality.

Like Earl, I use the Leigh FMT and am very happy with it. It easily does angled mortises and tenons.


----------



## CaptainKlutz (Apr 23, 2014)

If you cut mortise often and have space, definitely good idea to buy a dedicated tool.

Being cheap; I built/use a homemade router mortise jig based on plans found in WoodSmith magazine #147 Wanted a faster way than by hand that didn't require dedicated shop space. Another LJ posted his DIY version here.

As others posted, when using router jig for hidden mortise will round corners of tenon. For thru tenon, use chisels to make things square.

Best Luck.


----------



## ChuckC (May 13, 2010)

> Ok so after looking at all the benchtop models I really wanted the powermatic benchtop 701. I really like the toolless nature of it. The price (seeems to be $550 everywhere) was the only thing hard to swallow. I checked Amazon though and they had one in the warehouse deals section, listed as used -very good. I ve had good luck before and when something hasn t been right they ve taken care of me so fingers crossed I actually get a usable 701 for $403!
> Now I need a couple hollow chisel setups - CMT Ok? Other recommendations? Spend the money on the powermatic chisels? I see they re made in Japan which I equate with good, I m not sure where the cmt ones are made
> 
> - GrantA


I have the PM chisels with the PM 701 and they work very well.


----------



## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

If I cut a lot of mortises, I would build a slot mortiser. I have a chinese benchtop mortiser, meh. I'd almost rather do it by hand. A local guy drills out the waste and uses his mortiser chisels + mallet to square up the holes, I've never tried it.


----------



## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

The drill press mortiser is ok once setup. I used it with a cross slide vise which makes it much much easier.

Have a floor model on loan right now that has xy table. It'll slaughter a mortise whenever I have need of it.


----------

