# Benchtop Router Table: Buy (which one) or build?



## paxorion (Oct 19, 2012)

I've been going through a similar router table buy or build dilemma as Nates02gt. Rather than (try to) hijack his thread, I thought I'd start a new one. For a router table, I know that I have to make it portable, and easy to carry through the house to use outdoors. I initially thought I would build one, but after factoring in the cost of the router plate (I'm thinking the Kreg one), hardware (bolts, knobs, and miter channel), and material (I don't have much in the way of scraps, and I am basing my estimates on perceived price), I don't see much of a cost savings for a bench top model (different story if I had space for a router table)

My search has lead to two possible options:

Bosch RA1181 - I like that this unit is all inclusive, even if the router plate isn't a standard size. I also plan on using my router table for edge jointing so the included shims are a nice perk. This one is also cheaper at $162 on Amazon. 
Kreg PRS2100 - I like that if desired, I can salvage the router plate and levelers for use on a full-size router table or table saw extension one day. Lowest cost I've found is ~$210.

I'm curious as to any thoughts and recommendations on which one to buy or if I should reconsider build. When I priced for a build option, I came to somewhere between $90 (lowest point) for router plate + hardware and $180 (with hardware for future proofing). I'm not a big fan of going all bare bones to save on cash, as I do not believe my "skill" level (i.e. patience and attention to detail) is high enough to execute a good router table build (yet). Currently I am leaning on the buy option, to get the Bosch RA1181 given the price factor, and that it will give me something usable sooner rather than later.


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

If it were me, I would build one but I do not know what kind of shop and tools you have. I built the following one for my son a few years ago and he has a DeWalt 625 router in it. He has been using it for some time and really likes it.
It has a formica top and hardwood edges. The fence has two sliding sides which can be opened or closed depending on the router bit and to help with the dust collection.


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## cabmaker (Sep 16, 2010)

I know a fellow that bought one of those.

He is ot a happy camper

I have seen it and can say that Bosch should be ashamed of themselves!


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## paxorion (Oct 19, 2012)

> I know a fellow that bought one of those.
> 
> He is ot a happy camper
> 
> ...


So to clarify…someone bought a Bosch RA1181 and does not like it? Does it have to do with a bow or dip in the aluminum table?


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## cabmaker (Sep 16, 2010)

It has to do with being a inferior piece of equipment ie:

Lots of slop in locking mechanisms that also contort when tightened

Ultralight construction

Push bar did not come with his

Didn't appear to have enough integrity to support a healthy router

Table top flexed under load.

(This one was designed to sell, not use)


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## paxorion (Oct 19, 2012)

Gotcha, that makes sense.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

The Kreg is much nicer than the Bosch benchtop. 
Otherwise, I can highly recommend the Bench Dog fence and top. You could build you own cabinet.


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## NiteWalker (May 7, 2011)

I still say to build:
(this could easily be a benchtop table; the top is 20" x 25")




































A plate, t-track and miter track are all luxuries rather than necessities.
I make money with some of my woodworking, and my router table is one of my most used tools. I don't find it lacking in any way at all, other than adding some drawers on the base to add storage and weight.

Also, in regards to your router dilemma, I have an extra dewalt 618 base without the handles or baseplate. It's yours if you want. That way you could keep one base in the router table and the other for freehand routing. PM if interested.


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## jtm (Dec 2, 2013)

This is what I have right now:

http://www.sears.com/die-cast-aluminum-router-table/p-00937596000P?s_tnt=57497:3:0

It's actually a great table, especially for the money. I'm just about finished my full-size Yankee Workshop build, so I have no idea what I'm going to do with my portable Craftsman. I may sell it, but shipping will probably offset any saving over a new one from Sears.

Also, if you use the SAVE15 coupon code, it'll cost you less than $100.

Not sure what kind of router you have, so I don't know if the hole pattern is compatible.


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## distrbd (Sep 14, 2011)

I have A Porter-Cable 698 Benchtop Router Table,it has been a workhorse for me ,it is well built ,aluminum top ,easy to move around/use ,the only drawback is the split fence which some owners complain about it not being easy to set up but I have had zero problem with it.price is around $200 to $250.I think Norm Abram used to have one in his shop.
Here's review:

http://benchtop-router-table-reviews.info/porter-cable-698-benchtop-router-table-review/


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## jonah (May 15, 2009)

The Bosch bench top router table is on sale at the moment at Amazon for something like $125 with free shipping.

Not the best table in the world, but it's certainly a sight better than the various Craftsman/PC ones mentioned above.


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## English (May 10, 2014)

I have two different router tables, one made from Norm Abrams plan with a torsion box top and a table saw extension table. Both have lifts, Norms table has a Woodpecker Uni lift and the extension table has a homemade lift made from the Hitachi plunge mechanism. Both we home made at less than 1/4" the cost of factory made. Both work well, having two tables is good when you need to make two different cuts on a lot of boards.


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## paxorion (Oct 19, 2012)

> The Bosch bench top router table is on sale at the moment at Amazon for something like $125 with free shipping. Not the best table in the world, but it s certainly a sight better than the various Craftsman/PC ones mentioned above.
> 
> - jonah


I just checked, and it's listed for $162. At that price its $50 less than the Kreg table, which is still decent savings.



> I have two different router tables, one made from Norm Abrams plan with a torsion box top and a table saw extension table…
> - English


That is my long-term goal, and part of the reason why I am leaning towards the Kreg table (so that I can scavange parts for the table saw extension wing setup) but for the time being, in-feasible given my lack of dedicated shop space.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

I would echo Nite Walkers sentiments. I built my own a long time ago when I didn't have a lot of skills or fancy tools. It has absolutely NO sag and has all the features I wanted (and for a grand total of $25!

I wanted a lot bigger table than the commercially available ones and I am very tight!

I did a blog on it some time ago. The only thing I would change is the dry erase top (Formica would be more durable as the finish is wearing off in spots on mine) but I couldn't find white Formica except in full sheets ($50).


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## lumbermeister (Dec 24, 2012)

I have the Bosch RA1181. Its problem, as far as I am concerned, is that the aluminum table is not truly flat; i.e., it tips downward in all directions relative to the aluminum insert plate. That said, since both table and insert are aluminum, and both quite rigid, I do not see how it can contort when locking, or be said to be of ultralight construction (I an referring to comments made earlier within this forum).

I am able to work around the downward tilt, though it is surely something I should not have to do. If you want a truly quality unit, build your own or spend the $$ for a floor standing unit. Else, the Bosch may work for you but know the potential pitfalls before purchasing.


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## NiteWalker (May 7, 2011)

> I would echo Nite Walkers sentiments. I built my own a long time ago when I didn t have a lot of skills or fancy The only thing I would change is the dry erase top (Formica would be more durable as the finish is wearing off in spots on mine) but I couldn t find white Formica except in full sheets ($50).
> 
> - gfadvm


The full sheet of formica is worth it. 
You can make a nice drill press table, outfeed table, torsion box assembly table, sharpening station table, etc.
Very useful in the shop.


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## paxorion (Oct 19, 2012)

A not so subtle thrust towards build with a slow-start bare-bones approach, which isn't my usual style, but in this instance, I may give it a shot. For those of you who shared info about the Bosch table, I think I've heard enough to consider it not a really viable option. I also spent some time reading more about the Kreg benchtop table, and find it to be less and less appealing to me (shucks). And so I find myself spending more and more time trying to plan parts A, B, and C of a router table build. Maybe it will serve as good practice for a future build.

Now for my next question, I'll be prepping a router plate question…to begin in another forum topic…


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## intelligen (Dec 28, 2009)

I'm a little late to the party, but you asked for people who have the Bosch RA1181 and don't like it, so I'll reiterate what others have said: DON'T buy the Bosch router table! Complete piece of junk, table isn't flat, nothing about it is easy to use. It's almost as if the designer tried to make it as big a PITA to use as possible. If you plan on installing your router and leaving it installed with the same bit all the time, then maybe it's good enough for you. Otherwise, steer clear.

It sounds like you've already made up your mind not to get it, but if you or anyone else needs more convincing, read the 1-star Amazon review titled, 13 Reasons NOT to buy this piece of junk.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

http://lumberjocks.com/gfadvm/blog/28051

Here's my $25 version built in 1 weekend


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## paxorion (Oct 19, 2012)

> http://lumberjocks.com/gfadvm/blog/28051
> 
> Here s my $25 version built in 1 weekend
> 
> - gfadvm


Very nice approach to making reducer rings. How did you go about making them?


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## Notw (Aug 7, 2013)

I vote for building, I would love to have one of the nice router tables with all the bells and whistles but my budget isn't there. Here is the one I built about a year ago and haven't had any problems out of it.



The bottom is scrap wood and the top is made from 2 layers of MDF with a 1/4" MDF plate. The router I have mounted in it is light so their is no sag


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## NiteWalker (May 7, 2011)

Nice job on the table.
Simple works best, IMHO.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Pax, They were very hi-tech: glued some scrap dry erase to some 1/2" birch ply and cut em out with a hole saw. Then drilled out the center holes to the size needed. They are held in place with a small magnets. My tabletop is made of 1/2" birch ply covered in dry erase board. The key to no sag is a narrow span (just enough to fit the router).


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## paxorion (Oct 19, 2012)

I've decided to go the build route. I am trying to go as cheap as possible, and started looking for a laminate sink cutout. Seems to be only granite stone suppliers in my area, and the only place that does work with laminate played some major third degree before trying to calculate a cost to sell me cutouts. I hung up the phone on them…

So as an alternative, I hit up the Ikea "as-is" section and walked away with two 25" x 30" pieces of laminate covered particleboard for a total of $3. I picked up 2, in case I messed up the first one, so that I would have a backup to work with. A bit beaten up on the edges, but I plan on backing up the bottom with MDF or plywood and edging with some hardwood. Now to find time to build it…


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

I would NOT use particleboard for any part of the build. Get some Baltic Birch 1/2" ply from the big box store.


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## paxorion (Oct 19, 2012)

> I would NOT use particleboard for any part of the build. Get some Baltic Birch 1/2" ply from the big box store.
> 
> - gfadvm


Is the concern more stability or warping? My thinking is that if this turns out to be a dud prototype, I won't be out too much money to refine my design.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

Actually particle board (mdf) has been a great substrate for formica in my experience. 
One of the few things it does well. My commercial Bench Dog top is laminate covered particle board.


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## paxorion (Oct 19, 2012)

I checked both boards with my straight edge and found them to be flat. I certainly wouldn't expect them to hold up without some backing, which will probably be MDF, followed by some form of solid wood edging. To keep it cheap, it'll probably be whatever hardwood I have on hand or get for my next project.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

We may be talking different materials if you agree with Pinto that particleboard and MDF are the same thing. In my view, particleboard is that stuff made with coarse sawdust and glue with the REALLY crumbly edges and will disintegrate in the presence of ANY moisture. MDF is likewise not moisture friendly and will swell anywhere it gets damp.


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