# Sharpening methods



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

*What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*

*What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*

After we had a few talks on Berthas 'what is your favorite hand plane' blog I decided we needed to go to next step.

So please let us hear your thoughts show us pictures videos why you like your blade or sharpening method and proofs if they exist why it should be better than other.










I am lazy by nature, and handicapped by life, so for me to stand and move the blade forward and backward on a stone or paper is a painful process, so I had to settle with a Tormek style wathergrinder and the leather wheel with past on it, also I like to use a leather strap as I work, especially on my 01 steel since this takes a easy razor edge that way, where my A2 steel seems to want more effort to become sharp again.
(I am fully aware this is not the best way to razor sharp).









Her you can see the standard I use for chisels, bedanes, plane irons and knifes, a grinded primary bevel on the water wheel that I leave grinded, a second 5 degree extra bevel that I also hone, and of course a clean and straight iron - for the back I flatten but far from hysterical, and I put most weight on the front of the blade when I hone it so I achieve a really sharp edge.

If I was a field worker I think I would choose A2, if working in a shop 01.
In general I have come to the conclusion that 01 is the best for a chisel or plane iron I want to be able to sharpen and stay super sharp, I will choose 01 where I really want to cut the wood, also I read that it holds a better edge for the lower angles than A2.
Where A2 gives me a stronger edge with high angles, so if I look for a workhorse or a chisel that can stay alive longer, it will be A2, but it's 'sudden death' tend to annoy me, so I do prefer 01 steel.










I have made knifes for quite some years, and here it is the same story and conclusion, that if you are willing to hone, not sharpen once in a while the softer steals provides you with a razor edge in almost no effort, where the harder steel are giving you a really nice edge for a while and then the party is over until you go home and sharpen it again.

This is wonderful clear reading about the pitch.
http://www.handplane.com/45/perfect-pitch-bedding-angles-explained/

Please let me here your thoughts.

*Best thoughts,*
Mads


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Mads, I think there might be a translation issue with your post above as I'm not sure we are seeing what you are typing on your Danish keyboard. So just for the record, if anyone else is seeing O2, it should read A2 and if anyone else is seeing A1, it should read O1. That's right isn't it Mads?

Its a bit weird Mads. I noticed it in one of your other posts but forgot to mention it.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Hi andy,
No it is not my keyboard it is my head… It must be because I am a architect, I always write A1 A2 steel, and not 01-02 steel…
And yes you may laugh, big time, 
Best thoughts, and thank you,
Mads


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Here are the Lie Nielsen words on 01-02 steel:

*A-2 Steel chisels will hold an edge extremely well, especially when sharpened at an angle of 30 degrees or higher. Some folks however prefer O-1 Tool Steel, because O-1 holds up better at lower angles, 25 degrees or less, making them more useful for slicing or paring tasks. So in response to customer requests, we are making our standard five sizes available in O-1, each ground at 25 degrees.*

So I might not be all wrong in what I feel…
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## docholladay (Jan 9, 2010)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Well Mads, you have seriously opened a can of worms here. This could get heated before this blog is finished.

I don't know much about metalurgy so I don't know if I can offer much on that subject except to say that I some very old chisels and planes and I have a few that are fairly new and I much prefer the steel in the older ones than the newer ones. I think that the older ones may require sharpening a little bit more frequently, but I can sharpen them more quickly and get a better edge with less effort than I can on the newer ones that I own.

As for sharpening methods, I have tried many different methods. I have not tried one of the grinders like the one you have Mads, but most every manual method there is from Scary Sharp (sand paper on glass) to Water Stones, Oil Stones and Diamond Stones. I would like to try the newer Ceramic Stones, but have not had the opportunity yet. I have been using water stones most of the time for the past couple of years. I love the speed of water stones as well as the quality of the edge that a water stone gives. However, I don't like the mess associated with water stones nor the constant need to re-flatten the stones. I have tried and tried different ways to try and sharpen so that they willl remain flat and have not been successful. They still get dished pretty quickly and have to be re-flattened. One other draw back to water stones is the water itself that will cause your tools to rust if you do not dry and oil your tools following sharpening. More recently, I have been migrating to oil stones. Oil stones don't dish out as quickly as water stones so they don't require flattening as often. There is still a small amount of mess associated, but not as much as with water stones. Also, since there is no water, then there is no danger of rust on the tools. They cut a little more slowly so are not as quick as water stones, but this is a very small difference. If you keep your tools sharp so that you are only touching up the honing from time to time, this is really a negligible difference.

As for process, if it is a new blade or a badly damaged blade, my first step is to us a jig that I have made on a plain old bench grinder to grind a fresh, new and square bevel on the tool. Then, depending on the tool, I either use a jig or sometimes by hand and simply start with a coarser stone and work my way down to a fine polishing stone. For me, the main concern is to be patient and keep at it till the tool is truly sharp (easily shaving hairs off of the arm gives me a good indication that it is sharp. I then confirm by taking some end grain shavings on a piece of scrap to see how it behaves on some actual wood. I figure that if it will shave end grain smoothly, it has to be pretty sharp.

Doc


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


I knew it was you really Mads, I was just being polite LOL


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Now I think I corrected the text right, I just used the spelling and then it changed all into 01 02 and this was wrong also…

Just so there are no mistakes I talk O1 oil cooled steel, and A2 air cooled steel.

Hock writes better than me about it here:
http://www.hocktools.com/A2.htm

Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Doc, thank you for your insight, this was exacty what I was hoping for, some people sharing their views on what they do and why they do so. I listen carefully and think your explanations makes perfectly sence.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Illinios Engraving lists A-1 steel.
A-1 Air Hardening Steels Provide Increased Toughness

Air hardening (A-2) tool steel can be used in the same applications where water and oil hardening steels are used. Some of these include cold chisels, blacksmith tools, cold forming tools, hand punches, scissors, shears, razors, knives, taps, trimming dies, shear blades, knurling tools, drills, woodworking chisels, embossing dies and of course, steel stamps.

This may be the process

AISI O1 general purpose oil-hardening tool steel is
a versatile manganese-chromium-tungsten steel
suitable for a wide variety of cold-work applications.
Its main characteristics include:
• Good machinability
• Good dimensional stability in hardening
• A good combination of high surface hardness
and toughness after hardening and tempering


----------



## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


There is a difference between the "O" and "A" tool steels, there is also a "D", "W", and others.

The end result-if you harden and temper correctly, you will have a hardness between 59 and 64, where my HF chisels have a steel that has a hardness just above cardboard - but they sharpen real fast.


----------



## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Sorry about the multiple posts. Personnally, I like to grind, then use my stones to finish. The combination of the diamond - then 8000 water stone - then finish with strop and printer or craft paper gets the finest edge for me. I do not have the space for a machine.

I prefer the thicker blades of old - they are harder and are of better quality.


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


I think for this post I will limit myself to plane blades. As far as my favorite Iron I get very specific. Cryogenicly treated A2 tool steel, Rc 62 ± 1, blades 3/16 thick made by David Finck. I have not been able to find a better blade though I have yet to try Hocks (at some point I look forward to comparing the two)

Link here:
http://www.davidfinck.com/planeirons.htm

To sharpen these blades I use a hand crank wheel to hollow grind to 30 degrees and then I use the bevel as its own guide. I made "stones" from MDF, and automotive sandpaper (Silicon Carbide) in 400, 1500 and 2000 grits. If you study the micron count of the abrasive compounds 2000 grit in silicon carbide is the same micron count as an 8000 grit water stone (translation: they get you to the same edge)

I am not sure if sharpening this way is my favorite but I like the edge I get from this method as opposed to oil stones and water stones are not practical for me to try since my shop in not insulated. I do a pictorial or a video as promised on the hand plane forum a little later.


----------



## Dcase (Jul 7, 2010)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


I have spent more time over the past couple years learning how to sharpen then I have on anything else woodworking related. I cant even tell you how many times I thought I had a "sharp" blade and then I would learn more and realize they weren't sharp enough. Getting the perfect edge seems to be an endless struggle for me and I am sure I am not alone.

I am at the point now where I can get my blades sharp but I have a hard time getting old blades that are badly out of square back to being square. One of my setbacks is I do not have a power grinder or even a belt sander.

I grind my primary bevel by using sandpaper attached to a granite tile and holding the blade in one of the cheaper rolling jigs. This method takes a long time but it does work. I start with 100 grit paper and I grind most of the primary with that. As I start approaching the edge I switch to 120 grit and then 220. I check the blade often and I try and stop before I reach the very edge. If the blade is out of square I keep grinding through the edge until the blade is square. I should also note that I will use wet/dry paper for this and I stop often to let the blade cool down for a few then I go back to it. I learned to do this after I burned my fingers a few times by going to quick.

To flatten the backs of the blades I have pretty much given up on flattening the whole back and I now use the David Charlesworth ruler trick to flatten the backs of my plane blades.

To hone the irons I use Scary Sharp method using Micro film from http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=toolshop&Product_Code=ST-MAF.XX&Category_Code=THS

I follow the steps from Brent Beach's web site http://www3.telus.net/BrentBeach/Sharpen/sharpen.html

I will sharpen a blade tonight and take some pictures of my set up and then post again here later in more detail.


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


If starting from scratch:
1) Wet grinder for hollow primary & square
2) Scary sharp (windowsill) and eclipse jig to flatten the primary
3) Powered strop with autosol or green bar
4) Secondary on scary sharp
5) non-powered strop

Dan reminded me in his post that I forgot my scary sequence:
120, 160, 220, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, and 2000
I polish the backs of my irons first, to a mirror finish. If I see pits within my lifetime of use, I cut it off and start all over.


----------



## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


I hate sharpening. This is why I love my Worksharp 3000. It's not the perfect solution, but it's fast and easily brings the tools to a sharpness that I can shave with (or sharper). It doesn't have to be the perfect, microscopic edge because of the speed in which I can re-hone a chisel or plane iron.


----------



## bigike (May 25, 2009)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Me I read a lot of what others had to say about sharpening and put together my own method of going about it. I grind the primary bevel at 25-26 deg. then I use a honing jig to hold the blade set at about 30 deg. and go from a 1000 grit water stone to a 8000 grit counting my strokes as I go. So it's like 10 strokes pulling toward me on the 1000 grit then another 10 on the 1200 change the blade angle to about 32 deg and then do about 15 on the 6000 and then 20 on the 8000 all the while changing pressure from the middle of the blade to the ends this way the ends are set back from middle so I don't get the lines from the ends digging in my stock. I used the lie nielsen plans for the blade angle setter so I get the same results every time very sharp blades I can shave with. This is why I think mine is the best method for sharpening plane blades and chisels I have different angles for chisels though, for those I use the same method as David Charlesworth uses on his DVD Precision Prep of Chisels for accurate joinery.

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/pdf/AngleSettingJig.pdf


----------



## kenn (Mar 19, 2008)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


I've used oilstones when I first got started in woodworking but didn't know what I was doing. Then I got serious. I bought a used waterstones. While they sharpen great, setting everything up and not having a dedicated sharpening station meant I didn't sharpen as often as I should have. Now the waterstones sit in a plastic container, dry, and I use a Tormek. I do the initial grind, use their finer grit thingy, and finish with a hone on the leather wheel with compound. It works for me because I use it and stay sharp. That is the most important thing I think - use it and stay sharp, whatever "it" may be.


----------



## Timbo (Aug 21, 2008)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Interesting topic, I have used several methods and seem to have landed on the hollow grind method to square and establish the bevel then switch oil stone to create the micro bevel. I keep a leather strop at the bench to hone as I work. I do not have a favorite iron and I'm not that concerned about the bevel angle somewhere in the 25 to 30 deg range.

I use the DMT diamond plates to flatten the backs of chisels and hope to *not* do that again anytime soon 

I agree with you mads; hone as you work, it takes only a few seconds/strokes to keep that sharp edge.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


I like this conversation but it has me a little concerned. Do I hear religious overtones? If I see a guy standing in my shop door some day with a self laminated, custom turned, hand carved baseball bat and a shirt that says "Please pray for LJ-Jack" I'm reaching for my hand made battle axe sporting a blade from a broken #8 iron and a handle from a sledge hammer that has a bad representation of king george carved in the bottom half. Especially if he is mumbling something about god save scary sharp.

As i stated in the previous thread, I have a Makita Horizontal Wheel Wet Blade Sharpener that works very well. I tend to overheat the blade on a grinder no matter how careful I am. I am a bit inpatient and the water grinder offsets my shortcomings. I then go to a 4000/8000 combination water stone with a $10 angle guide. It works but I would love to improve the process without breaking the bank.

So far I've only used stock blades, but after following these will need to try some aftermarket.


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


if i am on a job site
and my chisels are dulling
nobody ever paid me to sit and hand sharpen any tools
i go and buy a new one
as the chisels seem to always find 
cement or steel sooner or later

i finally got a worksharp 3000
and spent a couple of hours sharpening all my chisels

what a joy


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


david I agree, but…..in that instance would you throw a $70 chisel in your tool pouch and head out to chop some framing? I used a belt sander in these cases and home depot stanley's.


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


*don*
i don't take my sorby paring chisels to work sites
or my better marples

most of my site chisels are stanleys or older craftsman
they get a lot on abuse
i sharpened on my belt sander for years
but with my DA sander
don't take the belt sander much anymore


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


so do the sorbys and marples get the worksharp? I'm just curious if it does that fine of a job. I know my makita would sharpen my "construction"chisels fine, but needs more work for woodworking.


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


it does every chisel i got
and with finer and finer grits
a joy to use

and they are all 
really square for a change


----------



## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Don:

There is some criticism about the Worksharp with regard to getting a straight bevel and being able to use more of the sanding disks, but once setup right, it will get it things just about as sharp as imaginable.

One solution is to get the wide-blade attachment for the top of it so you don't have to worry about the tool bay on the actual tool (which can cause the bevel issues). This also lets you use all the sandpaper.

It's a really great tool for those who don't like to spend a long time doing this stuff. Not bulletproof, and perhaps not worth the original retail price…but when you can get one for less than a $150 or so, it's a no-brainer.


----------



## MikeGager (Jun 15, 2009)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


i just use sandpaper on a piece of MDF. i use 600 if the blade is new then 1000 then 2000 and im done. it takes about a minute to sharpen a new blade, much less if im just touching up an edge. i have a little roller guide i use sometimes but mostly just do it by hand.


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


^I'm with Mike. Go ape on the back and first primary bevel. A quick pass over 1000 and 2000 and leather, and you're back in business.

Mads, I forgot the "why" part! My apologies. I like the Tormek because it's fast, cool, (temperature), comfortable (I can sit and watch), and you can guarantee 90-degrees if you pay attention as you go. The cons are obviou$. I like the scary sharp with adhesive on windowsill because it's cheap and I can leave a stack of them prepped and ready. I've got a shorter one (translated I dropped it) loaded only with 1000, 1500, and 2000; so I can do very quickly what Mike Gager describes above. I've been to sharpening demos and seen this level of sharpness met by other methods, but never bettered.

I also never never never do anything other than dead flat on the back of any iron or chisel. I know there are big proponents of the "ruler" trick (and they have my sincere respect), but it makes for more math to determine your actual incident angle (in my small mind, at least).


----------



## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


I normally use the slow speed grider that I use for wood turning tools to establish primary bevel on plane blades, and use the worksharp to initially refine bevel and flatten backs. Then I move to waterstones and maintain them there. (With Hocks, I start with waterstones) I have a Veritas angle guide with the extra camber attachment and the little Jig to set blade angles. I think that using the sharpening jig referenced by Ike would be quicker and will be building one when time permits. I'm using a similar type of method on some of my wood turning tools.

I've also been giving serious thoughts to getting a Tormak to do most of the bevel grinding and flattening work. I'm also worried about over heating tools.

Most of my plane blades are High Carbon Hocks. I do not have any of the cryrogenicly treated ones.


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Wayne, how do you like that camber attachment?


----------



## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


It works well. Easy to swap out rollers.


----------



## Dcase (Jul 7, 2010)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Al, there is no real math when using the ruler trick. Just a thin ruler puts maybe a 1 degree back bevel on the plane iron. From what I have experienced and heard from others who do this its not enough of an angle to make any difference with what you are doing on the bevel side.

I only do the ruler with my plane blades. Chisels get whole back flattened.


----------



## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


If you want good info on the rule trick. David Charlesworth videos are a good source of info on it and plane blade sharpening in general. Chris Schwarz also has a number of good videos that cover sharpening.

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?grp=1320

Hand Tool Techniques Part 1: Plane Sharpening by David Charlesworth
Handplane Basics: A Better Way to Use Bench Planes by Christopher Schwarz

It is also covered in this LN sharpening youtube video

http://www.youtube.com/user/LieNielsen#p/c/75F714D948056489/2/yzeAsX-09o4


----------



## Bricofleur (Aug 28, 2009)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Since no method is perfect and since tools are so different from one another, I use different methods depending in tools, work to be done, edge needed, etc. So, I use one grinder outfitted with two 100 grit white stones, another grinder outfitted with one 180 grit white stone and one fine grey stone, two Wolverine Sharpening Systems, the Veritas Pond Sharpening Set with Japanese water stones, the Veritas Mk.II Power Sharpening system, a Delta bench grinder outfitted with two coarse grey stones, a 10'' 600x/1200x diamond stone, a Work Sharp WS3000 System, and two 1X42 belt sanders. I also have a Melamine board on which are stock layers of different grit sandpapers. This latter is dedicated for lapping planes and blades. Since no tool and/or method is perfect, my next purchase should be a Tormek. But I don't know when $$$.

Best,

Serge

http://atelierdubricoleur.wordpress.com

PS: Mads, I'm lazy too! (and handicapped by you know why)


----------



## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Lol - I only have about 1/2 Serge's list. I must be slacking : ^ )


----------



## grittyroots (Jan 13, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


i have a ghetto machine for the primary shaping. then i use a combination 200/1000 wet stone and paper on a granite tile. this works o.k, but i have too little money for a fancy machine and too little time to do it all by hand.

Question: i just bought a stanley #12 scraper with know blade. has anyone made a blade from an old tablesaw blade?n i have the blank cut trying to find time to shape it.
Mads where can i see you knives?


----------



## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Gritty, Hock Tools sells replacement blades. They list dimensions as "blades are 3/32" thick by 2-7/8" wide and 5" long with a 45° bevel on the cutting edge."

http://www.hocktools.com/SB.htm


----------



## grittyroots (Jan 13, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Thanks wayne that sounds alot easier


----------



## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


That is the route I went on my #112…


----------



## yrob (May 26, 2008)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


I use japanese waterstones. I establish the flat back with wety/dry sand paper on a granite slab. My chisels are ground at 25 degrees with a secondary bevel at 28 degrees (veritas MKII jig for holding them). I start with 1000 then 4000 and finish with a 8000 stone.

I I also have a couple lie-nielsen chisels made of O-1 steel. I prefer that to the A2 steel chisels, I find it easier to sharpen at 25 degrees.

Lately, I have been using Narex (rc59 chisels, it is steel with Cr-Mn in it) .For the price they are really good and hold an edge. I cut at least one set of dovetails every day and It takes a week before I even have to rehone. They are soft enough to be easily resharpened. Usually I can rehone the secondary bevel 3 or 4 times before its nicked and I need to reestablish it.

I just ordered custom made japanese chisels after trying them at a friend's place. #1 White steel (rather than blue steel) of RC64-65. These are made by Chutaro Imai and they take an edge like nothing else. Being white steel, they are easier to sharpen than the blue steel chisels. Hida tools in berkeley (www.hidatool.com) sell imai chisels (the fujihiro). They can custom order from him (1 month lead time) the higher end version made out of samurai sword steel. The standard version they sell is also top quality and enough for most people.


----------



## yrob (May 26, 2008)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Patron, I second that. The workshap 3000 is really a good investment for $200.00 . Add an extra glass disk or two and you are set. The local woodcraft store around here regularly schedules sharpening classes. It is quite funny to see what happens. Most people register for this class, they show up with chisels or planes that are badly sharpened. The instructor sharpen them and teach them how to do it correctly with the worksharp.
Usually , right during class break (it is from 6 to 8pm) the students run to buy the worksharps and empty the inventory.. That sharpening class is the best advertisement they could have concocted.


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


great blog with a realy good polite conversation sharing a lot of infomation
one can easely be confused here …. LOL 
my self I havn´t done much sharpening yet so I can´t say what is best or what is working for me yet 
but I use a flat granit with sandpaper to flatten the back of plane irons and cheisels 
and then switch to Japanese waterstones for sharpening and honning that works fine 
do to the fast cutting waterstones but they needed to be nursed to stay flat so a diamontstone
is on the wishliste … LOL I go to 6000 grit for now but have the 8000 and 10000 grits ready to the day
I get better WWskills and can get the benefit out of even sharper tools
and I use the veritas mrk II. guide since I just can´t learn to do it free hand :-(
doing it this way isn´t that bad since you have to empty you brain and consentrate on the job 
its like going in to zen-mode like when you flyfishing at the beach on a windy day there isn´t room for anything ells than stay focused on the job ...... well maybee i´m just too slow to follow the speed on
electronkillers ….. LOL

keep up coming with the knowledge you have about sharpening / honning and your thoughts about it
we can all learn a thing or two but let the religious stay home LOL
its great to try new things and metodes but as in working with wood there is more than one right way
to get to the end

Take care
Dennis


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Norton 1000/8000 combination waterstone.
Eclipse honing guide used in conjunction with an angle setting jig similar to the one Deneb Puchalski uses.
Currently flattening waterstone on P220 wet and dry but once the new DMT Dia-Flat becomes available in the UK, that will be on my shopping list. I will also use it for rough grinding and re-establishing the primary bevel.
I use the ruler trick for the back of my plane irons on the 8000 stone.
I also use a chamois leather strop charged with compound to touch up my chisels while I'm working.


----------



## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


There are a few intesting links in Chris's article related to this post. One is to a sharpening supply vendor. Which has the flattening stone Andy refers to

http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/DMT-Dia-Flat-P412C24.aspx

Also there is a link to a site by Brent Beach on sharpening….

"These pages describe how I sharpen and test plane blades. I use sheet abrasives glued to glass and a simple wooden shop made jig to get consistely excellent edges. The testing includes results for over 20 different makes of plane blades."

http://www3.telus.net/BrentBeach/

There is also a link to Ron Hock's site for his new sharpening book. I have this book and it is very comprehensive.

http://www.hocktools.com/perfectedge.htm


----------



## Napoleon (Sep 16, 2010)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Normally i use my tormek and after that my dmt grit 1200 and then my belgian bench stone grit 8000.

It had worked fine on my old bacho irons and today i spend the afternoon sharpening af set of A2 bevel chisels from Ln and a set of japanese chisels.

The Ln are really hard. much harder than i thought,but when it came to the japanese then we talk real hard stell!. I have never tryed to sharpen a chisels wich was made out of so hard steel before. I wanted some hard steel to when work outside without my tormek so the edge can last longer and i think i got what i wanted and more  it took me 20 min to finish one chisels and that was only at the tormek. Then come the work with the benc stone wich i have to make tomorrow.

Anyway a great day in the sun


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


I gotta say, gents, and I'm clearly in the minority here; I just can't embrace the ruler trick. I have no doubt that it's insanely productive, but with all that mirror flattening, I'm staying flat. If I offend anyone with this comment, I have plenty of others to share based on illogical reasoning


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Me and you, VonHagen, down the slopes toward certain disaster. Why you would want to tinker with your reference surface is a mystery to me. I'll go on the permanent record saying I keep my backs flat, unadulterated, glisteniing, dead friggen flat, and I leave them that way. If the superstars of planedom (and they are here, believe me gentlepeople) support the ruler trick, I'll start investing inthe most illogical shortcut I can find, dam te torpedos. Ask Marcou or Sellers if they ruler trick their planes (lol). I'm lol'g hard imagining Marcou destroying a dead flat iron in favor of a quick active cutting edge. Clearly, and may inappropriately, this offends me.

If you dislike me, please don't associate the people I admire with me. I'm just one jerk; but I've got great taste, if you ask me.


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Bertha. You are not alone on your dislike for the ruler trick. Once the back is flat it does not save that much time (in my case it adds time looking for the ruler). You can grind past the secondary bevel created by the ruler trick, but its easier to do it on the grinding stone than it is do do it on anything else. Grind the bevel side of the edge until the sin of the ruler trick is destroyed. I do like the ruler trick when you are getting started as it allows you to quickly get an old beater blade up and running but beyond that it's just a hassle.

I do have one blade that I ruler tricked that I have kept this way just for giggles…I don't know why.


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


i'm starting to like Von and RG in creepy ways. I'll step out of it for now. I'm too opinionated to nucleate a fair debate. I love you guys (serious).


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Sorry to disappoint Bertha but I am married. I will however post this video so you can listen to the sultry sound of my voice.

http://www.facebook.com/v/10150274804185229

http://lumberjocks.com/assets/pictures/projects/222901-438x.jpg
http://lumberjocks.com/assets/pictures/projects/222898-438x.jpg


----------



## roman (Sep 28, 2007)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


a grinding stone (prior to honing) leaves a small segment the same diameter as the grinders stone, ever so small. I hone my chisels etc, so that it "just" nicks both outside points of the arc, that way I loose the least amount of expensive steel.

I like my water stone with LV honing guide

I like my steel sharp enough I can shave with it.


----------



## lanwater (May 14, 2010)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Favorite iron? Haven't really research that yet.

As for sharpening, I tried the scary sharp with sand paper with a thick glass. I work great but to get the back of the chisel flat was a good workout. Same for the stone. In fact I was so bad at the stone that after a couple of use it needs flatening.

Worksharp 3000! It works great for me.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


RG, you sure have a sexy voice! Wauuuu… Laugh. Thank you for the fine little video.









Here is my swet hand grinder.
http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/21556

(I acually have bought one more in Paris now, it is a vintage Peugeot, so I can stay sharp…).

Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


And thank you all for the wonderful post's I think this is a really cool resourse for all of us.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


The grinder cost me 15 dollars by the way. I would like to find one that bolts to a table rather than clamps as that can be a bit limiting.

August, What are those?


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


OK, I took some pictures of my setup. I have an older Tormek and a newer JET wetgrinder. The Tormek is packed away but I always just say "Tormek" because it's easier than saying "JET Slow Speed Wet Grinder". Anyway, here's my sharpening station made from a baker's rack. As a funny side note, you see that stainless steel rod handle on the left. This was off a piece of medical equipment. It got dented, so the hospital replaced it and let me have this "trash". You're looking at a $875 piece of metal, which makes my sharpening station quite expensive to be reproduced accurately 










I added the rubbermaid wire tray for jigs, another on the right for card file/dressing stone, etc. I've got all my strop prep goodies on the left; diamond stuff on the right. Waterstones and a coarse wetgrinder on the lower shelf.










I moved the power switch to a more convenient location and put a lock on it b/c it's within a child's reach. I don't have children; I just wanted to appear sensitive. I built this amazingly complex device to help me flatten iron backs on the Scary sharp (Lowe's windowsill, 3m spray adhesive, acetone, sandpaper, murphy's oil soap).



















I swear, I'm about to give up posting pictures. The cursor keeps bouncing throughout the text, inserting pictures is strange spots, etc. Is anyone else having this problem? Is it a browser issue? Can I change my refresh or something? It's really frustrating and there's got to be a better way.


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


August, I don't know of anyone putting wood against their water stones, oiil stones, or diamond stones. Sharpening is metalwork, so your stones are perfect. That dirty, dirty metalwork that we all hate so much


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


I am looking into a forge. I want to make the blades for my planes.


----------



## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Al, are you using the img button? If that is causing issues. Try pasting the image url directly in the post.

Add an ! before and after the url.

RG, I've see 3 forges on CL in the past week or so. Wish I had the room for one.


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Thanks Wayne. I keep my photos local, rather than photobucket, etc. The cursor won't stay put and the images get inserted in strange places.


----------



## Bricofleur (Aug 28, 2009)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


*@Bertha*: I agree, inserting pictures could be easier. I had the same issue and I solved the problem by inserting the picture at the top of my post (and sometime leave it where it ends up), then Cut&Paste its url (so to speak) where I want it to be.

Best,

Serge

http://atelierdubricoleur.wordpress.com


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Al, regarding using the 'img' button to insert an image.

1. Click *img* button.
2. *Browse* to find your image, select it and click the *Open* push button.
3. Click the *Insert this image *button and then click in the text box at the position where you want the image to be inserted. You should see a flashing vertical bar at the cursor position.
4. Wait for the image to load into the text, then carry on typing.
5. Repeat the process for all remaining images.

Hope this helps.


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Thanks guys, my problem is with #3. The flashing cursor tends to move and it's like playing darts: I never know where the pictures will ACTUALLY insert. I've been using the cut/paste method but it's laborious and I always get out of sequence.


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


You have to position the cursor after clicking 'Insert this image' and then don't touch anything. It won't move if you don't click or press anything but as I tell my clients Al, if you can't manage it, unplug your PC and put it back in the box. 

It is a bit pants though. It should remember the cursor position you were on when you clicked the 'img' button and insert the image at that location.


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Actually, I think you should designate your treadle as a FRUSTRATIONWORKEROUTTA. Whenever, LJs puts your image somewhere you don't want it, peddle that treadle like crazy whilst shouting "ARRRRGHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!"

You'll feel much better for it Al, you know you will.


----------



## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


I was kind of looking at one of these for knives and carving tools. Sounds similar August.

http://www.chippingaway.com/WoodCarving/SharpeningTools/UltimatePowerSharpener.htm


----------



## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


I've not bought one yet. Was just looking at them at the moment.


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Wayne, I considered this as well, given that it would likely be the easiest of the possibilities. I'm thinking:
1) build the upper pully apparatus and table
2) mount a flat round disc to said pulley 
3) route a deep groove in said pulley to accommodate the belt
4) affix sandpaper to the disc

I would have to build an accessory table surface to bring the tools up to the disc sander level, but that's no biggie. I SHOULD build a scrollsaw. I WANT to build a sanding station. Sanding machines are generally pretty inexpensive, though, and scrollsaw seems more "pure" for a treadle.

I'm hijacking your thread Mads. And I'm not even going to apologize becasue I know the wheels in your architect/galoot head are spinning with the possibilities I'm so enamored to this tool and I'm not sure why. I paid entirely too much for it but it's in absolutely perfect condition and heavily casted. I love it.


----------



## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Scrollsaws are common and cheap around here on CL. The question I would ask is during a given week what task would get more use?


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Plus, August, looking at Wayne's tool, there are things that this machine could do like no other. The opportunities are minimal, of course, but when they're there, this is the tool for it.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Good question Mads, but let me qualify my answer before stating it. The best sharpening method is in my opinion the one that a person likes best, for whatever reason he/she might have.

I think sharpening is actually 3 different things. (1) grinding, (2) honing and (3) stropping.

*Grinding*
I mainly grind only when I need to renew a bevel to remove chips or to change the bevel angle. For this work I use my Veritas grinding jig mounted on my 8" bench grinder which has a slider to ensure smooth movement and infinitely variable angle positions. Very quick and accurate.

*Honing*
I do all my honing *hand-held* without any kind of jig. I use a reversible diamond stone with 600 grit on one side and 1200 grit on the other. Water is used to lubricate it. I have a plastic spray bottle for this job, and I use paper toweling to dry and clean it. I mention here that I also have a Veritas honing jig, their best one, but I don't use it anymore.

It takes me about two minutes to hone a blade direct from the grinder to a point where it will shave the hair off my arm. I start with the 600 grit and then finish with the 1200 grit. Occasional refreshment of the edge takes about 30 seconds using only the 1200 grit side.

*Stropping*
I have a strop, but I don't use it very often (lazy?). I find that it is fairly easy to destroy a good edge with a strop, so I just don't usually bother, with one major exception, I do always strop my carving chisels where super-sharp is the standard.

*The advantages with my method*
1. I get an edge that is more than adequate for any work I might be doing

2.It is easy and quick to refresh the edge frequently while working and therefore encourages me to keep my edge at optimal sharpness.

3. I like the easy portability of the diamond stone. I can have it with me wherever I might want to work, which might not be in my shop.

4. It's really quick. I don't like to use a lot of time honing.

5. I save bench space in my relatively small shop by not having yet another machine taking space

6. Other than a little paper toweling and some water there are no consumables that have to be constantly repurchased.

*What is critical to honing like this?*
You need to know proper hand holding technique, that is, how to hold the blades properly (hand positioning) and how to exert pressure evenly along the edges while you hone, plus the correct movements on the stone.

*How can you learn this great technique?*
The following link is to a blog I did on this subject awhile back http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/18800 , *or alternatively an even better place to learn this technique* http://antiquetools.com/sharp/index.html

It takes a little time to learn this technique with a little trial and error, but it is well worth the time spent for those who feel like I do.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


I do pretty much what Mike (stefang) does, except I use an oilstone. I strop on my hand and have for years.


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Quick refresh; I like Stefang's methods


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


I think I have to invest in a set of stones, just to see if it talks to me.
I also have a really small shop, so it would be fine to get the water grinder away.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Mads, the stones are more pleasurable than the paper, that's for sure. They're a tad messy, need flattening, and can be pricey. I've got your standard waterstones but they don't come out much after setting up my scary sharp. I use a smaller piece of marble windowsill (you can see a new one below) and load it with the higher grits. It's much lighter than the larger slabs and I can keep it handy to quickly freshen up an edge/back, followed by leather. But I break A LOT of them by droppage. They're only around $5 but to acetone the surface, cut the paper, glue it down, etc., it's a drag when I smash one.


----------



## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


You don't have to flatten the diamond stones and they will make short work of repairing a blade. Estimated life is 20 years in a commercial/daily use. I use a water stone to polish.


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


David's got an excellent point. I just never forked out the cash for a big DMT, although I've got some smaller ones. Did anyone ever put an end to the grit debate? Meaning, what is the waterstone grit equivalent to a diamond's, etc. I use a Dexter diamond sharpener for my "professional" tools. It works well.


----------



## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


The diamond stone will flatten the water stone. Use them all

My 400 grit water stone broke when it dried out, that was $100.00 to replace after 3 years. the flattenning stone was $40.00 and that too was no longer flat. The diamond stones were $170.00 for the set of 3 or 4 (you must shop around for the best deal). Cost me about $30.00 more for a long term solution.


----------



## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


One other point that is also important. These diamond stones-if you have a sharp edge on a piece of glass or a chip in glass or crystal - these are diamond stones. I have cleaned up some edges so they are not sharp. Water stones will not do this without cutting a groove in the stone.

They are not uni-taskers


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


More a recommendation than a direct answer, but … a few months ago, I received my used copy of Thomas Lie-Neilsen's (sound familiar ?) "_Taunton's COMPLETE ILLUSTRATED Guide to Sharpening."

From my review of it … like some other techniques … he has A Philosophy about sharpening, and-following along mostly with what he's said, acquiring the Veritas MkII honing guide, and a pair of Norton Combination Waterstones-I've had *great* luck and *outstanding* results honing my chisels, utility knives, two planer blades, AND the blades from my three-piece Harbor Freight set of mini hand planes.

I think I paid about US$11 for the book, with shipping. It does feel like one of those essential references-best basic resource on a given topic-books.

Cheers !


----------



## woodspark (May 8, 2010)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Give the stones a try Mads. All I've ever used together with 8" bench grinder and shopmade jig. Pretty much the same deal as Stefang. Stropping on the hand like Shipwright works well.

What type of stone is another discussion with many opinions :^) I like natural stones, Wachita and Hard Arkansas. I use them with a little water, NOT oil like many do!


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


A fine grit waterstone goobered up with some Nagura can give you a very fine edge. If it's the music of the sharpening you're looking for, Mads (and I suspect it is), the water stones can deliver an unsurpassed edge with just a bit of strop. It's what I used for a long time. I don't get "that" feeling from the diamond stones I have, but I don't have a nice set like David's. The diamond stones will outlive you, so the price isn't really an issue. There's just something "natural" feeling about a cold stone.


----------



## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


The water stones get you an exceptional edge. I am the first to agree. My contention with the diamond stones/plates are that they can be used wet (water only) or dry. The course grits go through a blade much faster to remove chips, re-edge, change angles, etc… The finer grits remove the scratches, and the finish should be at least an 8000 grit water stone that will give you a mirror finish and really nice edge.

Stones are a messy way to go, there is water, there is slurry, there is cleanup, but there is little setup and you are not putting the larger diamond plates in your pocket - they weight a good lbs., or 2 each. It is an option but not for everybody.

Water stones have been a problem for me because you should let them soak for a while in water before you use them. When they dry, probably because I keep a dehumidifier going 24/7, my stones crack in half. At $80 - $120 each, times 3 or 4, this can get expensive. This was the reason that I spent the time and money to even look at the diamond plates - with the goal of eliminating the flattening, cracking, and other maintenance of the courser levels of the process. This was my rationale and this did exactly what I was looking to do - but that was a ME thing.


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


^makes total sense to me. I certainly can't say that I get a BETTER edge with Scary Sharp over waterstones. SS certainly lacks the nostalgia of rubbing steel against stone. But the Tormek, some sandpaper, and a strop is the way I go, only for speed/setup/mess/reproducibility/ etc. After this discussion, I need to go check my stones to make sure they're not a pile of dust!


----------



## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


You know-there are at least 100 ways to sharpen the toys. Every method ilustrates the different requirements that each person has in time, space, mess, cost, even climate. The idea that we communicate all of these ways and the why, is even better. This way, people that are just coming in here can see that what they do is good. There is no "best way" if it works. I have used a rock to sharpen my knife - when fishing.

Mads-thank you for the forum


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


^very true words above. How sharp is sharp enough? It's the level of sharpness that you personally require. What's the best method to achieve that level of sharpness? The method you prefer, nothing more. It's no different than me collecting chisels while another guy is collecting plumb bobs. It's all part of the same love we share.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Look at this guys sharpening station.
I don't think it can become more exclusive than this.
http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/22336/a-dedicated-sharpening-bench-final
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Mads, shouldn't that be "inclusive". 
How do you suppose he used that piece of granite. I almost picked up a piece the other day, 3 inches wide by 30ish inches long for $15. I thought of Al's window sill. I may go back and get it.


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Mads, ever noticed how even the most luxurious sharpening setup always includes the lowly $11.00 Eclipse jig?! It's my favorite and I have several expensive ones.

And DW, it's inclusive AND exclusive!


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


;-)


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Tom Fidgen makes some beautiful stuff. I remember may favorite part was the drawer full of water. That's the kind of thing you get with a boat builder turned cabinetmaker.


----------



## yrob (May 26, 2008)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


If you like Tom Fidgen's sharpening station, go to his website. He has the plans for free. www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com . I have his book since I am a hand tool user. It is very good and this guy is incredible. He actually makes a living making custom furniture exclusively by hand (not even a planer/jointer etc..)


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


I see a lot of granite set into sharpening tops that are about 8×12 ish in size. Is this big enough? what size would you recommend? Is a single large piece better than multiple smaller pieces?


----------



## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


@Don W, It really depends on how much space you need for your materials. I went with 12×16 on my float glass because I wanted enough space for six 5" round grits. I also have two 3" x 24" 3cm granite pieces for DMT diamond "stone" size rectangles.

The 2 cm in granite is thick enough, though and really cuts back on the weight. The 12×12 granite tiles are flat and hard as well. They are only about 3/8" thick. but will not flex/deflect. They would require setting and/or bedding them so they won't slide around, though.


----------



## saddletramp (Mar 6, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Whew!! What a cornucopia of information. It has tied my poor little mind in a knot. ;^))))

How did I miss this thread until now? Thanks Mads.


----------



## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Tip on granite (and glass): Don't buy it at retail, just contact a local granite fabricator/installer (or glass company) and tell them what you'd like from their next drops. On the glass you might wind up with 3/4" bullet proof bank teller glass for peanuts. And on the granite, they'll have sink and stove cutout and drops from backsplash pretty regular (as long as you don't care what granite it is… Uba Tuba or Soylent Green or whatever. lol

They may even give it to you if they like you, you're not in a hurry and you can pick it up from them.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


What is important when you buy granite is to doubble check the flatness, I got a big piece of granite app 80 by 80 cm and it is of 2 mm this is so much that it is useless for the purpose.
Thank you guys for the comments.
Best of my weekend thoughts,
Mads


----------



## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Good point, Mads. Our fabricator uses the latest CNC-type equipment for cutting and honing. What we get from them is always very flat, but others out there ??? who knows ?


----------



## yrob (May 26, 2008)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


I got my granite reference plate from SHARS:. It is a company specializing in tools for machinists.
It was not very expensive given that it is a 12×18 , 2" thick plate ( $45.00 or so).

http://www.shars.com/productcategories/view/5100104/CystalPinkGraniteSurface_Plates

It is certified for lab use and very very flat to within 0.0002"

I went with 18" because I wanted it to be long enough for flattening planes. I can do all but the longest jointer planes on it. The drawback is that it is kinda heavy (about 70lbs) but I have it set on one end of my bench all the time and do not have to move it often.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


I picked this little beauty up for $15. The, next flee market there are stones for $2 each. What a difference. I plan to do a blog later.


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Awesome! I'm in the process of building my treadle-operated grinding/buffing station. I bought a pillowblock assembly but now realize that 1) The pillowblocks are crap quality and 2) the axle's not long enough to really do anything with. I made a table top out of Aspen. Boy was that a mistake. It was my first time using that wood. It's like basswood softness and produces billowy, horrific dust.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Al, I seen a treadle mill just like the one you got for $20. I know I could have gotten it cheaper. I'm second guessing my walk by now.


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Ouch! I paid quite a bit more than that, if memory serves. I walked past a draw horse with my fiance' driving. By the time I got the truck, it was gone. Those really sting.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


What a cool hand grinder.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


That is way different than what I am used to. Kind of cool though. Now go grab a 80 grit norton friable bond wheel and all your tools will thank you.


----------



## Manitario (Jul 4, 2010)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


I always miss these great discussions until way after they're done….
For the record I use scary sharp up to 2000 grit and then a 4000 and 8000 grit waterstone. Recently bought a Tormek grinder to take some of the pain out of establishing the primary bevel, but I don't trust it yet to do the final honing, even though its fancy leather wheel gets the edges shiny sharp.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Hi Rob,
I know that feeling…
Thats new the cobo of scarry an stones.
Perhaps you will find this blog about USB microscope looking at edges interesting when I get the time to follow up in the new year:
http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/26817
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Rob, I never stop at the Tormek strop unless I'm doing a quick tune up on knives, chisels, or turning tools. If I go to the trouble to remove a plane iron, I might as well hit a stone with em. I'm a scary sharp guy, too. I go up to 2500 grit then rub a strop. I haven't had my waterstones out in a long time.

Of late, I've been spending a lot of time on chipbreakers: making the front mirror smooth, bending the front to better engage, making sure the angles meet, etc. I've also been experimenting more with frog placement. Tuning up the chipbreaker has made a big difference in my planing. The Tormek strop charged with some compound will get them shiny pretty fast.


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


A good engagement on the chipbreaker is a must. I use a hardboard "stone" on a flat surface to get the angle right on the undercut.


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


^RG, I used to think I was getting it right. I should have asked you a long time ago. I moved the frog up on my #6, just playing around with it (it's got no frog adjustment screw). I noticed that it kept clogging, allowing chips under the chipbreaker. Keep in mind, I've been using this plane for years. I examined the chipbreaker and it wasn't straight, like someone kinked it in a vise. There was literally a visible gap! How it never reared its head before, I'll never know. I mated the chipbreaker like I normally do and gave it another good look. Although it seemed to mate well, close inspection showed that it didn't. I might have to go back through all my planes!


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


You are probably taking finer shavings than you used too. Those are the ones that find every crack and cranny in the under the breaker. The big ones roll off of anything.


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


That's the only think I can figure. I mean, the #6 isn't usually used for wispy shavings in my shop I keep the front of the chipbreaker waxed, so maybe that saved me for a while. I had also moved the chipbreaker closer to the end of the iron; mabye my iron wasn't totally flat at the tip. Anyhoo, it works great now You've seen these already, lol (HPOYD)


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Oddly I missed this the first time since you posted at the same time I did. AWESOME surface on the spalt by the way.


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Thanks, RG. That figure at the top right was the only thing that required the 81. I love that piece of wood, mostly because it was a gift from Dan.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Yes that is a beautiful surface Al, and what beautiful wood.
I also had a tour with a chipbreaker on a Japanese plane that keep clugging up, but after tuning the chipbreaker it was a dream to use.
I have not played so much with the frogs, just set them to give a moth that fittet the shave thickness and made the mouth bigger with a file when I put thicker irons than the plane could handle.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Thank you, Mads. Generally, I do as you do, set the frog and leave it alone. I was reading Hackett's book and I decided to fuss with the mouth. I'm not convinced the smaller mouth did much other than alert me to a problem with the chipbreaker. I'll have to do a bit more fussing, I'm sure


----------



## JGM0658 (Aug 16, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


I do water stones, but I hone the blades after every job, so the sharpening is not such a chore. Only if I see a chip on the iron I do all the steps. Why I like it? I don't know, it is the way I learned to do it and I figure I don't have to mess with what works for me. I tried the scary sharp method but found it too tedious and cumbersome.

Never tried sharpening with a wheel. I don't see what is the rush…  Although I understand your reasons for using one, if using stones cause you pain.


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


JGM, if I was using a granite plate, water, and sheets of messy paper; I'd consider it too cumbersome too. I've got all the water stones but I tend to prefer the Scary Sharp; kind of for the same reasons you mention…I just kind of got used to doing it. I like two long setups like this:










On a jig, I can quickly move from one grit to the next. At the end, I just strop and go. I have a coarse and a fine setup; in between sharpenings, I'll just touch up the micro at 600 through 2500.


----------



## JGM0658 (Aug 16, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


 if I was using a granite plate, water, and sheets of messy paper; I'd consider it too cumbersome too.

LOL..ok you caught me! That is what I read on how it should be done so that is how I tried it….what a PITA and mess! Your way seems to be more practical, but then I cannot get self adhesive sand paper here in Mexico…so I just kept on doing as always.


----------



## Dcase (Jul 7, 2010)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


That surface turned out really well on the Spalted maple. Makes me smile seeing it that nice because here is where it came from…


















I never spend enough time tuning the chip breakers. I am always in a rush to start using the plane after I have spent hours on the iron… I usually end up catching them a lot better down the road.. Someone should do a how to guide on tuning the old chip breakers.


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


^JGM, lol. I don't use adhesive paper either. Can you get 3M spray adhesive in Mexico? I wipe the surface with acetone, spray both the marble and the back of the paper, let it tack up, then place it down. Presto!

Dan, I think I can actually see my piece in the wood. I need a friggin chainsaw. I'm the only guy in WV without one. There's no telling what kind of wood is out there on my property. I've got felled trees all over the place. Maybe I'll take some pictures.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Me and dbfray are the ones with DMTs, it seems. Alas…

Once the irons go through my 'greeting,' re: setting the bevel angle they each get via my sharpening choc block and eclipse jig, I don't use a grinder on the iron again. I hate grinding. I don't have it all jigged up to set a consistent angle, so it's free hand. But once the grinding is done, I move to the grinding-grade DMT to get the primary bevel set across the entirety of the iron.

With the primary roughed in, I work up the back of the iron. If it's hollowed properly, this is quick work through each of the four DMT surfaces. Then it's to the strop to work up a mirror finish.

Bevels are worked through each of the four grits, stopping when I raise the burr all the way across the iron (cambered or straight). With all four done (don't have to revisit all four when I re-work the edges, btw… typically only three), I finish with charged, non-moving strop, pulling the iron, still in the eclipse, back on the leather several times to get the mirror. And the strop was a very nice touch in that the DMTs don't go to the uber-level grits of course. And edges can be refreshed very quickly via strop, too.

I was a faithful follower of the ruler trick, but have moved away from it totally now.

I personally love the DMTs and haven't the desire to move in another direction. Too easy to take out, spritz with water and go. They last, last, last. They stay flat. Oh, I like the edges that result.

EDIT: Oh, chipbreakers. Finer two grits of DMTs will get them flat across and ready for strop (polish). It does make a tremendous difference with pulling finer shavings.


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


*choc block and eclipse jig*
Isn't it funny how many seasoned galoots use the Eclipse jig, lol.
I have two because I lost mine for a day.
I almost ordered a backup


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Yes the Eclipse is a milestone.
I still doubt if I should have bought DMT's instead of the waterstones except for the 10.000 grid, but in some years if the price goes down on the DMT's in Europe I will try them. (In Europe the price is more than doubble).


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


^double the U.S. price is a lot of coin. Mads, you'll always have the DMTs for flattening.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


I cant say if they're 'worth' twice what I paid over other methods for sure, but if they last a decade or more the answer may be yes. The polishing piece is the only part I've wondered about, and strops seem to have filled the bill.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Al I never bought the DMT's choose the waterstones.
http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/26080
Smiles.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


ok, stupid question. Is "Eclipse" in Eclipse jig an actual brand, or is it that particular style of jig. I use one, not sure of the brand. I think mine came from woodcraft.

Dan how to tune the chip breaker

My sharpening

I missed so much today on this site. You guys were busy busy busy!!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Don- this thing is referred to as an eclipse.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Smitty, my question was is eclipse a brand that stuck (like we call a circular saw a *skill* saw) or is really a type of jig (like a bench plane is a type of plane). So can you buy a veritas (or any company) eclipse jig or is eclipse made by the *eclipse* company.

I'm not making sense I know. Its been a long day.

Mine looks exactly like yours. I use it less and less as I get better. I just did my new nice thick #62 iron without it. And it cut even better than new.


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


*Don* - Eclipse is a brand. The Eclipse No.36 side clamping honing guide for chisels and irons is the most popular honing guide ever. People like it because of the small width of the wheel which makes it possible to put a slight camber on the blade whilst it is still in the jig. Other manufacturers (including LN) have copied the design, so it is possible to buy a similar jig from other manufacturers. However, I have never heard of other manufacturer's jigs being referred to as an Eclipse jig as in your Skill saw example. I'm not even sure if Eclipse invented the side clamping design. They are collectively know as side clamping honing guides. Hope that clarifies it.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


That's a better answer than I had for sure. I understand the question now, too. Eclipse as in Xerox for copiers and Kleenex for 'facial tissues'...


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


thanks Andy and Smitty. Now I'm a little less confused. If I keep going, and live to 200 years old, I'll hit some sort of sanity.


----------



## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


I have been out - 
I use the DMT "stones" a lot. For final finishing, I still use an 8000 water stone, a leather strop and finally strop with newspaper. I use a veritas guide to maintain angles.

Ever have a chip in a glass, the DMT extra fine stone will fix this right up.


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


After reading a book on sharpening that mentioned the "cost" of maintaining the scary sharp system, I added up what I spend on mine. There's some truth that it costs more than stones pretty quickly. I guess the ease of buying a $4 pack of sandpaper 20 times outweighs paying $80 once, lol.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Strop with newspaper!
What does that mean?
Smiles,
Mads


----------



## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


I use newspaper or brown kraftpaper like a sharpening stone for about 4-5 passes, meduim to light pressure, similar to a strop. Paper is really abrasive, this is why I do not test an edge on paper, I use my finger. If I can feel the edge define the ridges of my finger, it is preety close. If I can feel it start to cut my finger and it has, we're done. Try it, I have found that it takes the edge from razor sharp to something that is seriously sharp. Learned this from an old barber that taped several sheets of newspaper to the backside of his strop.

I try to keep my chisels sharp enough that they shave finer than my planes.


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


David - And there was I thinking you were just cutting out the coupons


----------



## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


That is where shears come in handy. DMT stones will sharpen them too.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


I will have to try this.
And try to take some micoscope photos of the edges after.
Really interesting, thank you.
Best of my thoughts,
Mads


----------



## TechRedneck (Jul 30, 2010)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


I broke down and got a DMT XC. I use it more than I thought I would. It works great at re establishig primary bevels.

I also use it to quickly flatten the water stones. Be sure to clean them off after use. The filings will rust.


----------



## TechRedneck (Jul 30, 2010)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Debray

The paper idea makes sense. I need to give that a try.


----------



## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Let me know.


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


David, I bet paper is not that far off from 3000 grit sandpaper.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


but a lot cheaper.


----------



## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Depends upon the paper. Kraft paper may be about 3000 where news print may be higher. Stiffness has a bearing also,


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


I tried the paper today and it works great, I will post microscope pictures soon.
Time runs when you have a new girlfriend…
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


I'm not allowed to have one of those Mads.


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


^me either


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


some have all the fun !


----------



## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


I donated mine a few years ago, it was an old microscope.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


I'm in love and don't find the time - life aint fair!
But it sure is a happy smile I see on my lips these days.
The best of my thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


It couldn't happen to nicer guy.


----------



## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Mads, if she is the right one for you and you for her, life is grand - nothing more important than that. Some may argue this but even woodworking takes a backseat to that.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Thank you guys!
But you are not forgotten:
http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/27543


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


don´t promise more than you can hold Mads 
the cientist have found out that loosing brain cells starts at 45 years maybee even earlyer
so before you know it you will be soffering from dementia or Alzheimer's disease
so may I wish you the best luck in the rest of your life before I forget who I am .. LOL

Dennis


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Dennis you're bonkers, but please don't ever change.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


Dennis who!
Why are these mails from a place called Lumberjocks showing up on my laptop?


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

mafe said:


> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> *What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?*
> 
> ...


*help* there is a new guy staring at me every morning I look in the mirror
do you think they are hostile … Iam scared of my bathroom now

De…. (what ever my name is )


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

*A update on my personal sharpening methods.*

*An update on my personal sharpening methods.*

When I read in the blog I realized it looked like I use only my water grinder and this is not the case, so I decided for a little update showing my sharpening gear.









I like to use the Lansky system for my household and tour knifes this because it is portable and because I keep it in my kitchen so I always have scrap knifes.
It is easy to use and almost meditative to sit and sharpen a knife with.
A product I can highly recommend for knifes, and it comes now with diamond sharpeners.
(If you are thinking 'what is that strange piece of wood behind' it is a totem my daughter and I made when we were in the forest the other day, we played indians so we brought our knifes, painted our faces, put feathers in the hat and hair, throw spears and spend the most of a day making traps, looking at animals, screaming Indians songs and enjoying natures beauty).









Here are the tools for sharpening I use in my work shop.
Rough stones, finer stones for sharpening.
Arkansas stone for honing.
Curved stones, beveled stones for gouges and carving tools.
Honing compounds for wheels and leather pads for honing.
Diamond pads for free hand sharpening on router bits and so.
Glass plates with different grinds of sand paper for sharpening.
For truing I use my disc sander also.
And then my wet grinder. 
So yes I do not only use the wet grinder…
When I began the wood journey a few years back I used the sandpaper on glass method only and used it with a jig, but since I got the wet grinder I must admit I tend to use this since I have a neck and arm problem after a operation so repetitive moves are really bad for me, and also I am lazy by nature.









I made this little glass plate holder blog for those who are new in this most of all because I could not find my holder, but of course I found it right after…
A piece of plywood width as the glass plate and a little longer.
Put glue in one end.









Glue on stop blocks that a thinner than the glass, and leave a little room at one end so you can mount a wedge for a firm grip.









At the underside you can mount a stop, which can be held in your wise or just held against the table edge.









Now time to prepare the plate.









I use a long piece of sand paper that I tape to the glass plate, in this way it is fast and easy to change paper.
Others prefer to glue the paper to the glass to secure a completely flat surface.









Ready.









Here you see my plates.
I have one for each grid from 120 - 240 - 320 - 400 - 600 - 1200, I am not really sure how to translate these grids to other systems, but the 1200 water paper gives a mirror finish and the famous scary sharp edge. I also tested 2000 but I feel not that it makes a sharper edge.









After I like to leather strap it with a paste. 
(I'm sorry for the chisel on this photo…).









Here an example of flattening a back of a chisel on sand paper.
The big rubber is a special rubber for cleaning the paper, and this is a must, it makes the work faster and the paper last longer.









Getting there.









Now time to step up grid, personally I never go for the mirror finish, but stops around 320 - 400, and then let the leather strapping on my water grinder finish up only at the cutting edge.









For the water papers I use a duster to spray water on the paper.









Ohhh yes I do have a diamond that came with my Bahco chisels, but since it is not all flat, I will say it has almost no use, and this is why I was so curious to hear about the DMT's, I think I will have to try them, when my budget allow me.

The chisels in some of the pictures are a set I got for 5 dollar with some other tools, it is some fine metal and they hold a really fine edge, but I have never seen so badly made irons so they needed a big tour before they could be used, now they are going to be my Paris set, since the chisels I had here was a really crappy dollar store set with metal softer than butter I bought once when I had to fix a door.

*UPDATE*









The kind of guide I started out with, I have one here in Paris.









I forgot my hand grinder!
This baby desrves a place in the sharpening hall of fame here.









And latest new is this wonderful Peugeot hand grinder a real vintage baby that are all unused.
It will stay here in Paris to keep me sharp when I am out of town.

CHECK ALSO MY BLOG ON JAPANESE WATERSTONES.

http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/26080

Best thoughts,
Mads

Hope not to confuse now.

*Best thoughts,*
Mads


----------



## alba (Jul 31, 2010)

mafe said:


> *A update on my personal sharpening methods.*
> 
> *An update on my personal sharpening methods.*
> 
> ...


Sharp 

jamie


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

mafe said:


> *A update on my personal sharpening methods.*
> 
> *An update on my personal sharpening methods.*
> 
> ...


You say you are lazy Mads, but after seeing all of your sharpening equipment, I would say that I am much lazier than you ( in case there is a prize involved).


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *A update on my personal sharpening methods.*
> 
> *An update on my personal sharpening methods.*
> 
> ...


Laugh,
Mads


----------



## CharlesAuguste (Jun 11, 2011)

mafe said:


> *A update on my personal sharpening methods.*
> 
> *An update on my personal sharpening methods.*
> 
> ...


Good blog, definately the scary sharp method is the way to go once you optain a flat back and a scary sharp edge,
and put that chisel to use for a while the touch up to regain that edge is quick and removes very minimal metal.
Also it can work for gouges as well with different size dowels or metal rods.


----------



## Bsmith (Feb 2, 2011)

mafe said:


> *A update on my personal sharpening methods.*
> 
> *An update on my personal sharpening methods.*
> 
> ...


Thanks for simplyfing this process. I really like the jig.


----------



## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

mafe said:


> *A update on my personal sharpening methods.*
> 
> *An update on my personal sharpening methods.*
> 
> ...


Wow you sure have an array of sharping methods. I was sorry to hear that the diamond is not that flat. I use one all the time….............Jim


----------



## Sodabowski (Aug 23, 2010)

mafe said:


> *A update on my personal sharpening methods.*
> 
> *An update on my personal sharpening methods.*
> 
> ...


I love the totem and its story.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

mafe said:


> *A update on my personal sharpening methods.*
> 
> *An update on my personal sharpening methods.*
> 
> ...


Looks good, Mad. I need to brush up on my sharpening skills.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *A update on my personal sharpening methods.*
> 
> *An update on my personal sharpening methods.*
> 
> ...


Hi hi,
CJ, the sandpaper version with a jig to hold the iron is really easy, so easy that every one can learn it in no time, so go for this one at first. I just bought a cheap jig for a couple of dolars and it works fine even it is in a teriblre orange color… laugh.
Thomas, merci. I'm in Paris will send you a sms so we can have a coffee.
Jim, yes I think I will put the cash aside for some DMT stones now.
Bsmith, glad it could be usefull. (-;
CharlesAuguste, gauges this I have never seen, can you show / explain?
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

mafe said:


> *A update on my personal sharpening methods.*
> 
> *An update on my personal sharpening methods.*
> 
> ...


Oh oh, Paris again. I ask myself what new charming old tools will be making the trip back home with you this time Mads. I love the stuff you get there.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *A update on my personal sharpening methods.*
> 
> *An update on my personal sharpening methods.*
> 
> ...












Just made a update on the blog from my little table by the window in Paris.

Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

mafe said:


> *A update on my personal sharpening methods.*
> 
> *An update on my personal sharpening methods.*
> 
> ...


I've been using pretty much the same method Mads. I see you have a tube of Flitz there. I've use semi-chrome on the leather strop, and it works pretty good also. It's about the same as Flitz. Although, years ago, I found Flitz was better on the chrome parts of an old motorcycle I had. great blog how to.


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

mafe said:


> *A update on my personal sharpening methods.*
> 
> *An update on my personal sharpening methods.*
> 
> ...


Nothing to add but agreement. Sandpaper and stropping, sharp every time.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *A update on my personal sharpening methods.*
> 
> *An update on my personal sharpening methods.*
> 
> ...


Al, it sounds like a old fifties commercial.
Roger, yes there are many compounds that can be used for stropping, as you can see I also added Autosol.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## DinoWalk (May 24, 2011)

mafe said:


> *A update on my personal sharpening methods.*
> 
> *An update on my personal sharpening methods.*
> 
> ...


Nice post, it's always nice to get a different perspective when it comes to sharpening. Thanks!


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *A update on my personal sharpening methods.*
> 
> *An update on my personal sharpening methods.*
> 
> ...


Hi guys'n girls,
Just wanted to share these mails with you:

*I wrote DMT and asked:*
Hi, 
I have several sets of Japanese chisels and planes, I was thinking of using your Duro Sharp diamond plates for sharpening, is there any problem in this? Some say the plates will clug up and get worn fast due to the fact of the harder steel on the Japanese tools… 
Best thoughts, Mads

*And got this wonderful cool answer:* 
Hello,
This stone is good on any metal. DMT stones can be cleaned aggressively with scouring powder and a stiff nylon brush and they do not hollow out or groove. If you have any questions, please contact me at the number or e-mail below. Have a great day!
Giving you the edge,
Kristina Byron

This is what I call confident in your product!

Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

*The Eclipse & Record honing guides in use*

*The Eclipse honing guide in use*
and a jig for fast setup.

Just wanted to make a little update where I show the honing jig I use and a jig for fast set up I finally made.
Yes I use the Eclipse honing guide to help me control on the grinding of the chisels and plane irons, for touching up I usually freehand, and for Japanese plane irons you need no guide since they are so thick.









This is how it looks when you use the jig.
You push down on the pull.
Here I use it with sandpaper on glass plate for sharpening, but you can use it on any stone or diamond also.









The jig is really simple to make.
For plane irons:
A piece of plywood and then mark and fasten a stop at 2 inch 25 degrees on one side and 1 1/2 inch 30 degrees on the other side.









The plane irons must be mounted on the top of the honing jig.









Set the iron in the jig and push the iron up to the stop and fasten the blade in the jig.
It's that simple.









For chisels also, I use the other side of the jig for this, in this way I need only one jig.









The chisel is mounted in the lower part of the guide.









Choose honing degree and fasten the screw.









When not in use, you can fasten the jig in the guide and in this way it will be where you need it.

Finally I don't have to look for my meter anymore when sharpening.
Hope it could be to inspiration.

UPDATE AUGUST 2012









Updated my guides with this old Record 161.









It has a ball runner under, this means it is exelent for camber or even rounding edges.









It's simple and fast to adjust.









Here blade in place.









The edge.









The back.









Remember the cap iron.

*Best thoughts,*
Mads


----------



## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

mafe said:


> *The Eclipse & Record honing guides in use*
> 
> *The Eclipse honing guide in use*
> and a jig for fast setup.
> ...


Very clever, Mads. I like the idea of storing it with the jig so they don't get separated when you need them.
You are always thinking , my friend!!!!!!!!!!..................Jim


----------



## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

mafe said:


> *The Eclipse & Record honing guides in use*
> 
> *The Eclipse honing guide in use*
> and a jig for fast setup.
> ...


It is a great solution. Very simple and elegant. Have you seen the LN version?

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/pdf/AngleSettingJig.pdf

I've had it on my build list for a while.


----------



## Sodabowski (Aug 23, 2010)

mafe said:


> *The Eclipse & Record honing guides in use*
> 
> *The Eclipse honing guide in use*
> and a jig for fast setup.
> ...


Very clever indeed! I definately need to get me one of these honing guides.


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

mafe said:


> *The Eclipse & Record honing guides in use*
> 
> *The Eclipse honing guide in use*
> and a jig for fast setup.
> ...


Nicely done as ever Mads.


----------



## mook (Apr 16, 2011)

mafe said:


> *The Eclipse & Record honing guides in use*
> 
> *The Eclipse honing guide in use*
> and a jig for fast setup.
> ...


That particular honing guide is ideal and others keep trying to re-invent it. I have used mine since I got it at age 14. I used to have some jigs to control projection but now just measure since plane making has required some extra angles. I have written the projection amounts down on the box lid of my diamond plate in case i forget them in old age (tomorrow).
As a matter of interest , Eclipse modified that guide a bit-and here are pictures of old and new.








Anyone who wants to donate a re-invented one such as the Veritas to me because it looks so nice is quite welcome to do so (;(. If I had to buy another one because of want I would buy the Bridge City one and would be interested to see which one I favoured in the end.


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

mafe said:


> *The Eclipse & Record honing guides in use*
> 
> *The Eclipse honing guide in use*
> and a jig for fast setup.
> ...


This is the only sharpening jig worth having in my book. I use a similar stop block and have made singular ones like your for the toolbox, thats for showing this one because I STILL got some ideas from it (like keeping the jig attached to…the other jig when not in use.

I like to use the jig on the push stroke since it allows me to adjust the angle from left to right using thumb pressure, try it some time.


----------



## mook (Apr 16, 2011)

mafe said:


> *The Eclipse & Record honing guides in use*
> 
> *The Eclipse honing guide in use*
> and a jig for fast setup.
> ...


RG said "I like to use the jig on the push stroke since it allows me to adjust the angle from left to right using thumb pressure, try it some time." 
BINGO! That is how one get that slight camber on smoother plane blades which eliminates tracks and gives a feathered shaving…..And if you use a diamond plate you can press down hard on the edges without fear of scoring as might happen with a soft stone.


----------



## docholladay (Jan 9, 2010)

mafe said:


> *The Eclipse & Record honing guides in use*
> 
> *The Eclipse honing guide in use*
> and a jig for fast setup.
> ...


I really like the jig to set the distance for the appropriate angle. I have one of those eclipse jigs, although mine is a different brand. I also have one of the old Millers Falls jigs (after which the Lee Valley jig is patterned). I really like it because it can be adjusted for a micro bevel without having to unclamp the tool from the jig, but for some functions the eclipse style jig is better. For example, the eclipse, with that narrow wheel, can easily be used to put a slight radius on a smoothing plane iron.

Doc


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

mafe said:


> *The Eclipse & Record honing guides in use*
> 
> *The Eclipse honing guide in use*
> and a jig for fast setup.
> ...


I have a few of those jigs myself.


----------



## lanwater (May 14, 2010)

mafe said:


> *The Eclipse & Record honing guides in use*
> 
> *The Eclipse honing guide in use*
> and a jig for fast setup.
> ...


Mine is collecting dust since I got the worksharp. I am still going back to the stone age ) someday.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *The Eclipse & Record honing guides in use*
> 
> *The Eclipse honing guide in use*
> and a jig for fast setup.
> ...


Yes just a little simple jig to make life more easy, but when we sharpen a lot, it also makes life a lot easier…
The Lie Nielsen idea with the little extra piece for the micro bevel is really clever, I will make one like that, thank you Wayne.

Philip, are the one of the Eclipse better than the other? Perhaps the one with the large wedge shape is better to hold old firmer chisels without bevel edge…

RG, why is it better to make the edge on the push? I do the same but on the pull.

Best thoughts and thank you for the comments and ideas,
Mads


----------



## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

mafe said:


> *The Eclipse & Record honing guides in use*
> 
> *The Eclipse honing guide in use*
> and a jig for fast setup.
> ...


Thanks Mads. I have the honing jig, but I have always had to fight the set up. Just the lesson I needed for my sharpening station. I'll make one today.

I love LJ's. I always learn something new every time I log on.


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

mafe said:


> *The Eclipse & Record honing guides in use*
> 
> *The Eclipse honing guide in use*
> and a jig for fast setup.
> ...


I did not say it was better, just a different way of doing it. To be more specific when I push my thumbs are on the blade and the jig is away from me. So when I push the pressure is keeping the blade on the stone as well as moving the blade across it.

For me it's easier on the muscles in my fingers and as Philip noted it is really easy to get a minute radius for smoothing planes with this technique. I do most of my sharpening freehand but I use the eclipse when I am regrinding a tool I don't want to have a hollow grind (like a mortise chisel) and on those days when I don't quite feel 100%.


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

mafe said:


> *The Eclipse & Record honing guides in use*
> 
> *The Eclipse honing guide in use*
> and a jig for fast setup.
> ...


I understand exactly what you mean now Ryan. When you said ealier that you pushed, I was envisaging you pushing the eclipse guide rotated through 180 degrees, so the blade would be digging into the stone and throwing a burr on the front of the blade rather than the back.

After reading what you just wrote though, it makes perfect sense and I can see how it might be easier on the muscles in the hands. I'll have to try it. Thanks.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *The Eclipse & Record honing guides in use*
> 
> *The Eclipse honing guide in use*
> and a jig for fast setup.
> ...


Rand, yes it is amazing how much we learn here! I also say that to my self again and again. I read woodworking books and learn little, then surf LJ and learn new every day.

Ryan I will give it a go.
I have bad arms neck and shoulders so this might be a really good trick for me.

Andy, are you still going in Copenhagen? If so - should we grab a beer one day?

Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## KentS (May 27, 2009)

mafe said:


> *The Eclipse & Record honing guides in use*
> 
> *The Eclipse honing guide in use*
> and a jig for fast setup.
> ...


You are my hero Mads. You always give such good information

Thanks again


----------



## HarleySoftailDeuce (Jan 14, 2009)

mafe said:


> *The Eclipse & Record honing guides in use*
> 
> *The Eclipse honing guide in use*
> and a jig for fast setup.
> ...


I'm looking to build a plywood jig for the common angles; 25, 33, 35 but do not know the distances on them.
There' for my Lie Nielsen hand chisels.
I like David Charlesworths' CD set on all aspects of sharpening…very deliverate and accurate.
Could you give me the lengths of those angles?


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *The Eclipse & Record honing guides in use*
> 
> *The Eclipse honing guide in use*
> and a jig for fast setup.
> ...


It depends on the jig you build.
Where it has touchdown.
Best thoughts,
Mads

I can see I left a few uanswered comments here - thank you guys.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *The Eclipse & Record honing guides in use*
> 
> *The Eclipse honing guide in use*
> and a jig for fast setup.
> ...


Just made a small update.


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

mafe said:


> *The Eclipse & Record honing guides in use*
> 
> *The Eclipse honing guide in use*
> and a jig for fast setup.
> ...


I don't use jigs any more but I can't help thinking to myself "I want one" when I see that Record.

EDIT
You could probably make one in the shop with a bit of ingenuity.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *The Eclipse & Record honing guides in use*
> 
> *The Eclipse honing guide in use*
> and a jig for fast setup.
> ...


Smiles RG.
I use jigs for the thin blades like Stanleys and freehand for my chisels and Japanese blades.
Also I like to use jig when grinding a new bevel on a old blade.
You might look at this guys site, it is all good stuff:
http://www3.telus.net/BrentBeach/Sharpen/extensions.html
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## nmssis (Sep 14, 2015)

mafe said:


> *The Eclipse & Record honing guides in use*
> 
> *The Eclipse honing guide in use*
> and a jig for fast setup.
> ...


so when measuring distance of 38mm (1-1/2") for 30 degrees and 50mm (2") 25 degrees you measure the distance from:

the leading edge of the jig to the tip of the blade

or

the leading edge of the jig to the bevel line that begins the 25 degrees

Thanks!


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *The Eclipse & Record honing guides in use*
> 
> *The Eclipse honing guide in use*
> and a jig for fast setup.
> ...


Hi sorry to be late, been offline for a while.
I go from tip of blade.
Never checked it - it works. ;-)
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## nmssis (Sep 14, 2015)

mafe said:


> *The Eclipse & Record honing guides in use*
> 
> *The Eclipse honing guide in use*
> and a jig for fast setup.
> ...





> Hi sorry to be late, been offline for a while.
> I go from tip of blade.
> Never checked it - it works. ;-)
> Best thoughts,
> ...


thanks!
...watch me mess up me blades


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *The Eclipse & Record honing guides in use*
> 
> *The Eclipse honing guide in use*
> and a jig for fast setup.
> ...


Smiles.


----------



## ezelaprida (May 14, 2017)

mafe said:


> *The Eclipse & Record honing guides in use*
> 
> *The Eclipse honing guide in use*
> and a jig for fast setup.
> ...


Hi, for sharpening chisels at 30º it says 1 1/4 inch? I can't read it clearly…
Thank you!


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *The Eclipse & Record honing guides in use*
> 
> *The Eclipse honing guide in use*
> and a jig for fast setup.
> ...


Hi ezelaprida,
Yes, but it depends of what model of guide you have, it is so you will have to check it.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

*Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*

*Stropping*
thanks to Div.

Dear LJ's it's been a while since my last confession on LJ, this one is about stropping.
(It is actually an old set of photos that just never became a blog for a reason at that time).









For those who never heard of stropping, it is simply to hone the edge of your iron on a piece of leather with some compound or paste as the honing material, just as you have probably seen a barber do on his leather strap with the razor knife.

A long time ago I read about the term stopping and woodworking, I was really exited but when I told this to a Danish woodworker he just laughed at me and said that that he never heard of this, no one did this, and all his fellow woodworkers was laughing at this when they heard of it, and so I put this out of my head for a while. 
But my friend Div then one day told me that he always stropped, he stropped his chisels regularly while using them and also his plane irons got a fast tour on the stop once in a while, and since I have a big respect for the words of Div and know he normally do nothing without a reason, I decided to make some strops and give it a try, the worst that could happen was that I would waste some leather.

After having used stop for a good time now I can say; 'I will probably never go back', I love the fact that you during your work can make a fast stopping and have this razor sharp edge right back, and after i started stropping - paring with a chisel is a new world, I am completely in control and I can leave a perfect surface on the wood.

So any bad sides? No!
Is it magic? No, just a wonderful fast way to hone your chisel back to razor while you work. It cannot sharpen a chisel, just hone it when you slowly wear down the edge, when the edge is worn down you still need to go back to the stone.
In a way it feels like using a Japan knife, you just strop instead of breaking of the blades as you go, and then at some point you have used the full capacity and need to take the full tour.

Is it difficult? No!

So let's take a look at it:









Any piece of lumber!
Cut it to square.









Then cut it in the width you desire, a good all-round strop can be 206×68 mm (app. 2,7×8,1 inch) this is the size of a standard Japanese water stone.









Cut to length.
Now I think we cut enough!









I choose to give one of the strops a handle, simply because I have seen this on the web and are thinking it could be cool for knifes.









A rounding bit on the router.









Rounding the handle fast, and with noise…









Rounded rough.









Sanding and final shaping the handle.









So time for what it is really all about; the leather.
Cut some strips to fit your wood blocks.









A good quality leather belt can be used also as you can see.
The small one is a gift for a friend that is doing some linoleum prints and so she can now hone her knifes.
You want a quality that is relatively thick and hard, but not too stiff.
The smooth side up, do not listen to those who say differently.









For glue I use a contact adhesive (two side stick glue).
Papers on the table!
Yes mother…









Glue applied both sides and time to wait fifteen minutes.
It can be done with a good pipe of tobacco.









Notice the funny clamping on the right.









Glue up and keep under press.
The Festool table is brilliant for this.









I punch my leather mark into it.
Yes I'm a child!









And here we are four new straps.









I bought a honing compound from Veritas, but you can use many other compounds but this you can go searching about on the web, I will not go deeper than this here, since we are talking religion to some and sience to others.
So what you do is simply to apply the compound to the leather and as you see it will stay on the smooth surface.
On this strop I left the other side with only the leather strop, this because some say you get the best result if you give the iron a tour on this after, personally I see no difference and use therefore only the compound side now.
(And read that in a microscope you could see absolutely no difference also if there were no compound).









And this was my first test, it worked really well, even the steel are quite hard on these Barco's.









And here you see just weeks ago while I work, I always have the strop around now, a quick fresh up while you use your chisels and you will be amazed how much more smooth the work goes.
I also used the strops with great success when I was using my carving irons, and here again it is priceless.









So what do you do?
NEVER PUSH THE BLADE, then you will cut up the leather.
Hold the chisel down to the strop in the angle of the bevel, and pull it against you.
Repeat this a couple of times.









Then turn the chisel and lay it flat on the back and again pull it against you a couple of times.









Turn and give it on or two more.









Now the chisel is razor sharp again and ready to use, no mess, no time, no trouble.









I love this more and more, with a sharp chisel you will master any kind of detail.
So go make yourself a strop!

Hope this little blog can inspire others to try the stop, and perhaps not always listen to what others tell you as I did in the first hand,

*Best thoughts,* 
Mads


----------



## jjw5858 (Apr 11, 2011)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


Awesome mads, great job on this. I had made one a while back too, not nearly as nice is this one. Hope all is well! 
P.S. Nice chisels to work with!


----------



## DeCarlo (Nov 6, 2010)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


Good info! Where did you buy the leather?


----------



## Maveric777 (Dec 23, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


Good stuff Mads and very informative…. My one question. Do you need to use any special honing compound? I never used it or even know where to find any. Would be nice to be able to find it locally at a hardware store or some place similar.


----------



## snowdog (Jul 1, 2007)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


Nice work. I need to get into the shop more. I have been flying RC planes to much this summer.


----------



## bluejazz (Oct 9, 2010)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


Thanks Mads. I have been looking to purchase one of these. But you have freed me from that idea. I love the idea of making my own and you have made that an easy process. Please never stop posting my friend, I have learned a lot from you.


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


thank you Mads 
one question though ..... to what kind of grit on a stone can you compare 
the polishing compound with ….. I know there is different compounds with different grits
but I talk about the end polishcompounds 
I use 8000 grit as my last stone … and I´m not interressted in going down by using compound 
with lower grit number … nomatter how much I like the idea

thank´s for sharing Mads as usual we learn something when you confess …. 

take care
Dennis


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


Dennis, Veritas claims that the average grit size is .5 micron which is around 10K grit. However since thats the average it means there are larger particles which help the compound cut faster. There is no telling what the largest grit sizes are.

But like Mads says this is a great way to touch up your blades in between honings.


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


Mads, thanks for posting, as always very informative and great pictures.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


wonderful writing Mads, but if you say 'don't listen to others' should we listen to YOU?  (yes we should)

Are you using the stropping wheel on the sheppach? I found that it really does put the best edge on blades.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


I posted this on your project as well but here we go again:

I strop after i finish sharpening, but use just leather, no compound. At the point the process is meant to remove any final burr. I've tried with and without compound and not seen any difference. I leave the right on the jig if sharpening a plane iron.

When stropping in between the sharpenings like you describe the compound makes an improvement.

As always Mads, great post. It did remind me I've been meaning to make a couple more of these.


----------



## blackcherry (Dec 7, 2007)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


I sold my Tormack awhile back and miss the leather stropping wheel, now I'm off to the shop to make a couple of pads because of your inspiration Mads the professor…thanks for your writing and sharing soul, your friend in woodworking Blkcherry


----------



## lanwater (May 14, 2010)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


As always your blogs are awsome. Very detail and refreshing. 
There is always something to learn.

Thanks Mads.


----------



## ratchet (Jan 12, 2008)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


Ok, so my strops use the other side of the leather along with some application of green oxide stick. It seems to work good. I'm now going to make new strops with the smooth side up. Hopefully that will work even better. Maybe you can teach this old dog a new trick or 2. 
I really like that handle on yours.
Thanks for posting this Mads!


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


*Mads* - You know I love you, but I can't help thinking you're getting off too lightly here. I know you hesitated for while before you made your first strop because you were confused as to whether it should be smooth side or rough side up. I remember you telling me you went with the smooth side after seeing what barbers use. But…

You say "You want a quality [leather] that is relatively thick and hard, but not too stiff." 
Joel over at Tools for Working Wood is selling stropping leather which is 'Genuine Horse Butt' which he says is the hardest leather he's seen.
Clifton sell soft chamois leather for use as a strop.
Some people just use compound on a piece of MDF.
Others say that if you finish honing on a Norton 8000 waterstone and ease up on the pressure at the end when removing the burr, stropping afterwards does not really add any benefit.
Some people say to condition the leather with a few drops of oil before applying the compound and others say the oil is not necessary.

So, I'm wondering whether the hardness of the leather AND whether you use it rough or smooth side up really makes much of a difference. If you are just dragging steel over leather a few times, I suspect it doesn't really.

What we really need is for someone to do side by side rough and smooth tests for each leather hardness with the same compound. Then put each of the chisels along with a chisel honed on a Norton 8000 waterstone into the hands of someone else to try and see which one they think is best.

Now who could we ask to do this test I wonder?


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


I agree but I say we need a Lumber Jock with a microscope! Any lab rats in the group that can do some testing for us?


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


Actually thats already been done by Leonord Lee in his book on sharpening:
















However I dont think he coveres best surfaces for using as a strop.


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


*Mauricio* - I think I've seen those pictures before somewhere, but I've no idea what I can get from them.


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


The stroped (green compound) edge is very smooth but it has some deeper grooves in it because most compunds have larger particles which make them cut faster but maybe larger than 8000 grit.

The 8000 grit picture is much smother than the stropped edge.

If you get a compound that has only .5 micron aluminum oxide particles it would be much finer than the 8000grit but it would cut very slow and I dont know where you would buy that.

The moral of the story is that, as Mads says, its a good touch up in between honings.

I would think that a firm surface such as harder leather or mdf would minimize rounding over of your edge.


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


On a lighter note Mads, how many shavings did you actually take, before you got one to stand up like that one in the last picture. Hopefully you didn't have to pare down right from the top.


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


That makes sense Mauricio.


----------



## Sodabowski (Aug 23, 2010)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


Funny, I always honed my cutting tools on leather… 
I even use leather to shine my pens after applying the finish to them.


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


so the compound on a leatherstrop is great if you usualy sharpen with sandpaper 
or your topstone is around 6000 grit or lower as many does 
thank you Mauricio 

Dennis


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


*The idea of the strop is that you have it at hand and that you do not mess with water or oil while you work, and that you will have a sharp edge all the time.*
In other words that you don't need to go back to hone, that you stay working, it is not meant for the sharpening part where I will end with a 10.000 grid water stone and then go to use the tool.

First of all *YES* I took a choice to tell people what to do, not to bring more doubt so that is why i did not go into the thoughts about this. This I did due to the fact that i myself had a lot of doubt of what was right and so i spend too much thinking and too little time using the tools… Laugh.

If you want to read more about the subject read here: 
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nenam/buffing-material.htm
http://www3.telus.net/BrentBeach/Sharpen/Stropping.html

0,5 micron (Veritas compound) should be app the same as a 15.000 - 50.000 grid water stone (after type, slurry and quality), but it leaves deeper tracks in the iron under a microscope.

You can read more about grits here:
http://straightrazorplace.com/honing/20409-grit-mesh-micron-conversion.html

For the leather:
If you use the rough side up you will round the edge as you pass, so do not do this. A MDF board could be used, but MDF is with a grit itself and we have no control of this, also MDF is glued and it will dissolve and leave a surface that are not completely even, so I would not use that.
For the hardness of the leather I will still stay on my statement, a good hard leather but not too hard, this because of you will glue it to the surface and here you want a little flex to make sure you end up with an even surface, and also you want the leather to flex a wee bit after to make sure you have full contact as you use it.

Hope it brings answers.
To those who are not into the grids or microns, we speak mirror hone, and razor sharp or in other words it does not get much sharper than this.
Smiles,
Mads


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


I cant say this more clear:

*JUST DO IT*.

You will never regret.

Smiles,
Mads


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


Thanks Mads, I will. I'm going to PM you some time to get your advice on buying some leather. I found a great site, but all the different types and thicknesses have me confused, so I'll send you the link and see what you think. Not just for strops, but also for making some cases for axes, drawknives, etc.

Great blog.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


Dennis, if you use 8000 as last stone I would not finish on a strop, but use it as a hone while you work as I do.
But give it a try and see what you feel.

Dan, I recomend Veritas.

Mauricio, I think we completely agree.

Sharon, yes I always used to finish on the leather strop wheel of the Sheppac (water grinder), this gives about the same finish as the one on the strop.

Andy, I love you too! I did not mean to get off to easy, but simply to take a stand and make a blog where people could make a strop that would work and not to leave them in even more despair as I was when I read about this some years back. But i think I answered the questions now, even as you can see there seems to be no one who really knows at this point what is 1000% best, but I promise you that my version will make those shaves you see each time and this is good enough for me - smiles. It was the first shave by the way, and that is a promise.

The rest of you, it is great to see the interest in this subject, I know that many use strops but not all the same way and many never heard of this (try asking in your local tool shop for a strop), my way works I used it for a good time now and with a increased joy in my woodworking since I now have a sharper edge most of the time and this means that I can go close to the lines and make more crisp work.

When we are at the theory, then I prefer my English type carpentry chisels in O1 steel since these are faster and easier to touch up. But the strop works fine also on even my Japanese chisels that are hard and crispy as hell.
(You can read here what LN says on that subject).

Thank you all for the comments and thoughts, I appreciate this debate, it is where we learn.

Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## jusfine (May 22, 2010)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


Great job my friend! I will make one too!


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


Andy, for the leather type I do not know the English word but what i use for all my leather work is in Danish called 'hard pressed front piece' I buy the whole piece app a m2 at the time.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


Randy, I have a feeling you will know about the leather types, so perhaps you can help Andy with the right name.
Thank you my friend,
Mads


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


hmmm have to give it a thought at least …. when you talk we deffently have to think more than twice
before we tosse the idea …. 

thank´s for the links the last one I have read sofare both give some answers and confused a little too 

Dennis


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


Yes Dennis, it confuses too much, no doubt! So pls. just try it.
Smiles,
Mads


----------



## jjw5858 (Apr 11, 2011)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


Hey Mads, awesome stuff, nice work on this strop, thanks for the great post!


----------



## kiefer (Feb 5, 2011)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


I just got home from work and been reading the blog and comments with interest and think you did a wonderful job on the strops and getting everyone going .
In my teenage years I watched the local barbers giving the older guys a shave with a straight razor that was constantly run over a shiny leather strop hanging beside the mirror and watched these dangerous sharp instruments being used on guys faces,
Every guy I talked to in the pup had a different opinion as to which barber gave the best shave and I think it was a matter of which barber stropped the most .
I have seen many types of strop over the years and every crafts man swore by there method no matter what type of strop was used from the board to the wheel type and in the end I believe it is a matter of just doing it and being informed of what is out there .
Just like MADS says *" JUST TRY IT "* and develop your own method

Thanks MADS

Kiefer


----------



## JohnnyB (Nov 10, 2011)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


I have been using a strop that I made from a 3 inch wide belt leather blank from Tandy. I glued it to a board about 30 inches long. Half the leather is smooth side up, and half is rough side up. I charge the rough half with green compound and leave the smooth leather plain. The theory is you strop first with the compound, then finish off on the smooth leather. I have to agree that the smooth side without compound doesn't seem to do much, so I am going to try putting the compound on it also. It cuts and polishes like crazy, but you do have to be careful not to round over the cutting edge. The strop hangs near my bench for quick and easy use. Thanks for the great tips!


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


Here a place where you can get finer grade compound if you are not happy with the Veritas.
http://www.japaneseknifesharpeningstore.com/category-s/27.htm
And here why some knife people think you should:
http://straightrazorplace.com/honing/28088-consumer-alert-chromium-oxide-bars-not.html
More confusion - smiles.

I will still stay on DO IT !!!
Nomatter what compound you chose.


----------



## dkirtley (Mar 11, 2010)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


One thing to be careful about stropping. Just a little is the right amount. Too much and you will round over the edge. You are making a microbevel. It will not be as sharp but it will make for a longer lasting edge.

It is all just an abrasive on a surface. Really the only advantage to using a strop is the ability to keep grit on the surface. If you compare it to the finest grits with a stone or sandpaper, the stone you are rubbing more on the matrix than the grit and with sandpaper, the grit comes off and you end up rubbing bare paper. When it comes off the strop, you just smear some more on it.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


David, I love that sentence 'just a litte is the right amount'. 
I make only few passes 2-3 on each side so I might have done something right this time, smiles.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


- and you get to a point where you can feel it is time to sharpen again, that is probably when it has become too round…


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


I just ordered my christmas present for myself, a 800 times USB microscope, so during December I will play with this - lol.
Sometimes it is just more easy to do it than to keep thinking… And it will be fun to see if what we think, feel and reality follows in this case.
The child,
Mads


----------



## snowdog (Jul 1, 2007)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


Oh My, I always wanted a USB microscope. I just can't justify it


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


I have only me to ask… it makes it more easy - laugh.


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


OOH NO now he will inspect all his tools …. even the sawblades on his festool

maaads ….. Mads…... MADS…... *MADS*..... wake up….

you are a woodworker …. not a metalugist !!

looks forward to see you play with it …. now you have advertised ….. 

take care
Dennis


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


Cool! I cant wait to see microscope pics!


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


Laugh Dennis.
Do not worry I am just a child!
I have just followed so many descussions on the web, and seen so many confused that I think it is time to take a closer look.
But as I said before JUST STROP.
To use a strop with a compound that are perhaps not the best compound on the planet is way much better than to not use one, and to work with a dull chisel is plain stupid - thats my humble thoughts on the subject.
Honestly yes it makes a difference the method of sharpening and if you finish at grit 6000 or 10000 but at the end of the day the most important is that you sharpen and that you hone to keep the edge sharp, it does not help to buy more expensive tools or sharpening gear if you don't sharpen regulary.
So my no one advice is DO IT !!!
Smiles,
Mads


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


Mauricio I will make a blog when I start using it, and then post pictures as I take them, I will not start a big sience project, just my observations on the methods I use and what others might bring to get a look at.


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


good I cuold make you laugh with the tease …. you deserve it …  
I was already convinced I had to look further into it before we had the talk in your shop 
but I also needed some more infomation …. now I think I go for the pure Chromium Oxide powder
you can buy in artist shops …. shuold be the same as a 30K stone if I remember correct

yes there is alot confusion on the net not only about the stropping but also about stones

what did you have to bleed for the microscope … I do have considered one becourse of bad eyesight
a magnifying glass isn´t enoff anymore for me looking at the irons when honing/sharpening :-(

Dennis


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/270842132705?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
This is the fellow.





This is a older 400 x version but seems fine.

Link for a 800 times:


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


This might be interesting for some of you:
http://www.davidcharlesworth.co.uk/blog/ 
30 Mar 2008, Drastic Measures 
&
16 Jul 2007, The Pleasure of Working with Sharp Tools

Interesting reading that makes sence.

Also my blog onJapanese waterstones.
http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/26080

Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## DaddyZ (Jan 28, 2010)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


Nice Information to be had !!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


Charlesworth has a blog?! How did I miss that, thanks for the heads up Mads.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


;-)


----------



## whitewulf (May 11, 2010)

mafe said:


> *Stropping (honing on a leather strop)*
> 
> *Stropping*
> thanks to Div.
> ...


My two cents, I believe Mads, referred to using a Microscope, while evaluating his strops. You know how SOMETIMES after final hone, it cuts like crazy, & other times only soso. The strop makes the difference!

I use both hard side & soft side strops, on blades after finish hone with 6000grit W/S. I strop lathe tools(both wood & metal) after grinding and honing. I don't believe in grinding wood chisel and using the burr to cut, then grind again for new burr! Stropping the lathe chisel is sharper & faster, IMHO sharper & less waste of good steel. 
I find the softside (inside), keeps the strop from sliding around in use!


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

*Old Danish honing strop and making a copy...*

*Old Danish honing strop*
and making a copy…

My dear friend Flemming came by the shop as he often do, this time I had invited him for a cafe latte, since I bought my self a new Rancilio Silvia espresso machine (just like the old one), the old one was fourteen years now and needed repair. In fact I just had a friend of a friend picking up the old one few minutes ago, I saw on Facebook that he needed one and had no money, like this life goes in wonderful circles (his friend will repair it for him).

Back to the story MaFe!
Flemming often bring stuff, today to show what he bought and ask advice. He came with a beautiful old Danish strop, that he had bought with some woodworking stuff.









Here it is.
Wonderful old leather on wood strop, plenty of wear and soul.









The strop have had it's days, now stiff and loose.









So before Flemming left, I made him a new strop and mounted it for him.
The leather has smooth side up as the original (Andy).
So he went home with a smile.









As often old tools are not made from fancy materials, just a plane piece of wood, knots and all.









After Flemming left, I went to the tablesaw.
Cut a old piece of wood from a trashed furniture.
Medium hardwood, with visible sap.









I made a quick sketch of the old strops shape when it was apart. 
So the measures and shape were transferred to the block of wood.









As the lazy anti gallot person I am, I use a motor powered saw.
Just quick rough shaping on the bandsaw. ;-)
After that some sanding.









I decide to give it a wee ornamentation, even the old one have none and I usually like it simple.
Hmmm, I must have smoked to little tobacco, perhaps just in a romantic mood.









Then dye, oil, polish, wax.
Ok MaFe, I guess you are a little over the top today!









Cutting a leather strip for the strop.









Predrilling a few holes.









Then three copper nails to hold the strop in place.









Rounding them a wee, while I hammer them in.









At the other end, I pull the strop tight with a pliers, before putting the nails in place.









That's it, the strop is a reality.









Fine size and nice to hold.









Time to load the strop.
Since the leather is quite 'shiny', I take a blade and rough it a wee by, just running the blade vertically down the leather, don't cut, just a careful roughing. (Try on another piece first).
Then time to load it, this time with Flexcut Gold Polishing Compound, this because our friend Druid here on LJ wrote me that I should try this out, so I bought some online and it arrived today, perfect timing.
Just rub it in, plenty, don't be cheap, the stick will last forever.









Finally the strop is at work, honing a knife and testing it out.
I agree, this is really an effective compound, for me it seems to be more effective and make a better polish to that mirror we like, when I have used it for a while I will get back on the subject (if I remember it).

Hope it could inspire or keep you sharp.

*Best thoughts,*
Mads


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

mafe said:


> *Old Danish honing strop and making a copy...*
> 
> *Old Danish honing strop*
> and making a copy…
> ...


Oh no Mads! I can feel a rough/smooth side up debate approaching. LOL.

Lovely little project and I like the decoration on the sides too. Is there any advantage to suspending the leather over thin air rather than sticking it to wood? Was it designed for razors and knives and not so much for chisels?


----------



## AlexeyKhasyanov (Jul 15, 2010)

mafe said:


> *Old Danish honing strop and making a copy...*
> 
> *Old Danish honing strop*
> and making a copy…
> ...


Nice


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Old Danish honing strop and making a copy...*
> 
> *Old Danish honing strop*
> and making a copy…
> ...


Laugh Andy thanks, I have no comments on that. (I like the smooth side up).
I like the hanging or suspended strop for knifes, I will always used a flat base version for chisels and plane irons.
But you can use what ever, just as long as you keep the strop tight, otherwise it will round the sharp edge you just made.

Fill your bowl to the brim and it will spill. 
Keep sharpening your knife and it will blunt. 
Lao Tzu

Alexey, thanks.
Smiles,
Mads


----------



## blackcherry (Dec 7, 2007)

mafe said:


> *Old Danish honing strop and making a copy...*
> 
> *Old Danish honing strop*
> and making a copy…
> ...


oh yea will put in fav's for those long winter nights. Great idea and project, happy holiday my friend.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

mafe said:


> *Old Danish honing strop and making a copy...*
> 
> *Old Danish honing strop*
> and making a copy…
> ...


Very nice project!

You even carved some scrolling on the sides! COOL touch!


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

mafe said:


> *Old Danish honing strop and making a copy...*
> 
> *Old Danish honing strop*
> and making a copy…
> ...


Nicely done, Mads!

I remember as a youngster, my Dad had a leather razor strop/strap he used to hone his straight razor (and to remind me to listen to my Mom).


----------



## flintbone (Oct 4, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Old Danish honing strop and making a copy...*
> 
> *Old Danish honing strop*
> and making a copy…
> ...


Good job Mads. There is something about stropping a blade on a good piece of leather
that will never grow old. Keep up the good work.
flint


----------



## Woodfix (May 14, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Old Danish honing strop and making a copy...*
> 
> *Old Danish honing strop*
> and making a copy…
> ...


Well done another beautiful thing in the world


----------



## DLK (Nov 26, 2014)

mafe said:


> *Old Danish honing strop and making a copy...*
> 
> *Old Danish honing strop*
> and making a copy…
> ...


Nice Mads. I recently made a hand held "flat base version" that I like for, but I have some good stiff leather left to try your open air strop.


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

mafe said:


> *Old Danish honing strop and making a copy...*
> 
> *Old Danish honing strop*
> and making a copy…
> ...


Very good Mads. I like that little belly in the middle. Gives it a bit of play. Should make some super sharp edges


----------



## Druid (Sep 30, 2010)

mafe said:


> *Old Danish honing strop and making a copy...*
> 
> *Old Danish honing strop*
> and making a copy…
> ...


Hi Mads, Yet another well done tutorial, and I'm glad to see that you found the Flexcut Gold gives you the mirror finish that I had mentioned to you. I like the way that you are showing many of us a good variety of "older style" tools, and how they can still be very useful to us today.
Thanks for sharing.


----------



## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

mafe said:


> *Old Danish honing strop and making a copy...*
> 
> *Old Danish honing strop*
> and making a copy…
> ...


Restore, copy, inspire! I'm sure you have inspired your copy to be copied, Mads. How thick/thin is the leather you used? I have read that the really thick leather is not desirable? Thanks for sharing.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

mafe said:


> *Old Danish honing strop and making a copy...*
> 
> *Old Danish honing strop*
> and making a copy…
> ...


Hi LJ's,
CFrye, circa 2,8mm hard pressed leather. I use this also for sheaths and so, bought half a cow front piece some years back. ;-) Yes that's a MaFe song: Restore, copy, inspire… Laugh.
Druid, yes that gold polish is good stuff, also bought one for my friend, look forward to hear his comments also.
Roger, I like the feel of this play, it gives a nice feel when running the knife down.
Combo Prof, let me know what you think.
Woodfix, if we leave some beauty behind when we one day have to go, then we have left a good impact.
flintbone, yes there sure are, it's a special feel, something basic.
lew, I like the first part, not the second, my father used only his hands and I did not like that either.
Joe Lyddon, yes it's unusual for me, I like 'less is more' but this time, it was just asking for it.
blackcherry, and the same to yo. 
Thanks for the fine words.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------

