# Venting DC outside - Thien separator or cyclone?



## mcg1990 (Nov 11, 2014)

I'm planning to upgrade my DC, like everyone else in this forum!

My original plans had me having to choose between a) build a thien separator, afford a good Wynn filter, or b) buy a dust deputy cyclone, not afford a good filter.

But then I realized I can skip the bags and vent outside! Perfect.

So, while I do have the budget for a cyclone, but is it that much of an upgrade over a thien separator? Anything else I ought to consider?

I plan to collect my chips in a can. So from top to bottom it'll be the blower from my HF 2hp collector → cyclone/separator → can.

Thanks!


----------



## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

If you intend to vent out, I'd stick with the Thein. Anything it misses will just be discharged out in the air stream.


----------



## mcg1990 (Nov 11, 2014)

True! Last question would be: Is the Thein separator significantly better/different to the bucket can lids you can buy? Example: http://www.sears.com/woodriver-trash-can-cyclone-lid/p-SPM7780063927?sid=IDx20110310x00001i&gclid=CJORjPbZ5M8CFZWFaQodUq0KsQ&gclsrc=aw.ds

I only ask as my shop time is already so constrained, and I suck at making mods and adjustments to my tools. I suppose I ought to see that as an area to improve upon rather than an area to avoid, but…


----------



## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

Others with first hand experience comparing the 2 will reply, but to me it goes back to venting outside…in that case, I think either one will do an adequate job. If one separates a little better than the other…so what? It's all going into the air stream out (and this stuff is biodegradable).


----------



## mcg1990 (Nov 11, 2014)

Thank you for both of your responses.


----------



## scott0317 (Jun 1, 2014)

I have done what I think you want to do…..i think.

I have a two HP motor from an old harbor freight DC mounted on top of the cyclone. I have a 55 gallon barrel on a harbor freight lift (makes it so easy to empty the container, squeeze the handle and the bin lowers) and this works fantastic. I vent outside and not sure why you would need a filter? If I can help in any way, feel free to pm me.


----------



## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Build an outdoor chip collector with a chimney for the fines and that's it. Efficiency of the collector on indoor designs is to prolong filter life. You wont have a filter so efficiency is irrelevant.


----------



## mcg1990 (Nov 11, 2014)

Scott - From what I've learned, my new plan is to mount the motor/impeller to my wall, have a 30 gallon can with woodriver trash can cyclone lid, and then vent straight outside.

My shop backs up about 1ft away from my fence, and beyond that is 30ft of trees followed by a car lot. In other words, they can eat my dust!

I'll update with some pics. All in all I'm pretty excited about this, and wished I had educated myself/requested others to educate me sooner. My suction has been sucking for some time now, leading to frequent blockages at both my jointer and planer. I expect I'll learn that the problem was a cheap filter bag with an inch thick crust of dust.

I'm ashamed to say I've only suspected a gummed up filter bag since last night; about 30 minutes into jointing a pile of 8/4 Oak I look toward my collector to see a ruptured plastic bag and approximately, oh, 30 minute's worth of Oak shavings spewing into the air like Ol' Faithful.


----------



## Bill7255 (Feb 23, 2012)

To answer your question, yes. A cyclone is much improved over the Thien. I have ran both. My estimate is a Thien will capture most of the chips, not all, and little of the dust. A cyclone will capture most of dust and all chips. I was running a Thien with my Jet 1100 and didn't think it would be good enough for venting outside. I ended up buying the Escarda(sp?) cyclone off eBay and converted a Jet 3hp 1900. Very happy with the results. Here is a link to my setup.

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/117834

I would recommend a cyclone, but you can try the Thien to see if it meets your needs. One thing for sure is venting outside was one of the best things I did. No filters to clog and reduce air flow.


----------



## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

I use a Thien on a 30gal can with a Wynn filter on the HF dust collector. I am very happy with that. I am in south central Texas and tend to nearly always work in the shop with my 8'x16' door wide open. Outside venting would create more problems than it would solve, IMO. Best that I can tell, the OP is in the Memphis area and would most likely have many months of mild weather where he too may also work with doors open. That being said, filtering would still be the best option IMO.


----------



## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

I'm glad you asked this question. I've intended to do this since I got my DC. Just yesterday I was out there looking at how I would do it. I'd prefer to collect chips outside. I've got some 55 gal plastic drums to use. I live in the middle of nowhere so it'll just be the squirrels eating my dust. If I collect outside, I think I'll get one of the big trash can top separators you mention. I'll be following this thread.


----------



## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

My separator is a 35 gal. Trash can with a cheap plastic cyclone lid. It does a good job of catching the chips before they can damage the DC impeller vanes.


----------



## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

That's a good point Gene, but I'd sure like to save the space by having the can outside.


----------



## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Or buy a new impeller every decade or so.


----------



## brtech (May 26, 2010)

Hmmmm, lots of thoughts here.

First of all, a "trash can cyclone lid" is not a cyclone, it's a trash can separator, and it's probably worse than a Thein in separating chips. Neither do much for dust. A Cyclone is tall, with a tapered cone. They are much better at separation.

The issue with dust collection is suction, which is really airspeed. You want 800+ CFM at the tool to get the "fines" (small dust particles that are the health hazard) out of the tool and into whatever you are sending them. Sending it outside is fine, as long as you understand that your heater or air conditioner will be working overtime. But unless you get 800 CFM or so at the tool, then you aren't clearing the dust, and you need to use a respirator while you work. The DC is then really just helping things look clean, not be clean.

Venting outside is good for airspeed because you don't need a filter and filters cause back pressure and thus drop CFM. Any DC without a filter is going to work better than the same DC with any filter.

But you have to start with enough CFM, and then not lose it somewhere. The usual calculations say that with a good quality cyclone and a good quality filter, you need 5 HP and a 15" impeller to get 800 CFM with a typical 6 inch main line and well engineered drops. Without the filter and without the cyclone, you could maybe get it with 3HP, but there are a lot of variables, so maybe, maybe not.

But if you start at 1.5 HP or even a honest 2, then you can't get there. If you start with 2.5 or 3 HP, and add a poorly designed separator, you probably can't get there. Have to say "probably" because there are a heck of a lot of variables.

You can measure CFM, so don't guess.

Separators are a nice to have. If you are venting outside, you will get a pile of chips and dust near the vent that you probably want to clean up. A separator will cut down how often you need to do it, and how much work it takes to clean up. That's all they do, make it easier to clean up. This comes at a cost: they introduce loss of suction. A better separator gets more stuff out of the airstream at a lower insertion loss of CFM. The very best still have loss, and still allow some dust to get through.

Generally, a well designed cyclone is the best, but a well designed cyclone is big, and needs a big motor. A trash can separator is usually the worst. The Thein baffle and less well designed cyclones tend to be about the same, but there are some fair to middln smaller cyclones that can out perform a Thein baffle. The Thein beats the really cheapo cyclones.

So, if you have 3HP or so, and 14 or 15" impeller, then adding a decent cyclone will make it easier to clean up the mess where you vent outside and you still will be able to clear the fines. Not much else can do that; if you drop below 2.5 or 3HP, even with no separator, you probably can't get to 800 CFM at the tool. 2HP with a Thein or cheap cyclone won't do it, and it's worse with a trash can separator.

If you are okay wearing the respirator all the time when you generate dust, then these issues are much less of a problem, and then you back to ease of cleaning up. The Thein is the best bang for the buck, but a cheapo cyclone will be okay. I'd avoid the trash can separator if you really are trying to be efficient.

And we have not even started talking about ducting!


----------



## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

I have a HF top hat on a 55 drum with top closed off and a 4" pvc 90 in the middle. The lid of the drum is a thein baffle. Works like a champ.


----------



## DrDirt (Feb 26, 2008)

I work in climate controlled areas often… so blowing my AC out the wall in summer, and the Heat out in the winter would be annoying.

Also … How close are your neighbors - you will hear the DC and more shop noise out the hole. If you just hav the separator you will create a fog of the fine dust that will settle on cars and your neighbors furniture when they have windows open.

So make sure you are in a good spot to run exhaust like that - lest you get a visit from angry neighbors and/or the city code inspector.


----------



## ArtMann (Mar 1, 2016)

I use an Oneida Super Dust Deputy separator. I have been using it heavily for several months with my jointer/planer and so far, I have collected a few tablespoons of dust in the plastic bag. It all goes down the SDD and into a 30 gallon collection tub. If you use an efficient separator, there will be no dust fog or pile of sawdust. A slight breeze will blow it away.


----------



## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Still not listening. If you are venting outside you don't need filters or cyclones or any of that nonsense. All of those things are for people who want to rebreath the same air. As for losing warm air, air is a poor conductor of heat, the mass of your shop matters more than CFM.


----------



## DrDirt (Feb 26, 2008)

> Still not listening. If you are venting outside you don t need filters or cyclones or any of that nonsense. All of those things are for people who want to rebreath the same air. As for losing warm air, air is a poor conductor of heat, the mass of your shop matters more than CFM.
> 
> - Rick M.


True that air itself is a poor conductor (that is why Down Jackets and Fiberglass insulation work) but that counts on TRAPPED air (why most houses have Tyvek Housewrap on them, and we seal cracks, and dont open the windows in December expecting the room to stay warm.

My shop is 14X21 with 12 foot ceiling… so my entire shop is just under 3600 Cubic feet. (3528 cu ft.)
If I am pulling 1200 CF each minute out of the room with a Delta 50-850 dust collector, 1/3 of the total volume every minute, I find it hard to believe that the temperature is not strongly affected.


----------



## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

Well said, Rick.
No AC in my shop. Any heat loss is negligible. It's dissipated well before it reaches the DC unit. Besides, the DC only runs when a dust generating machine is operating. 
The trash can separator with the cheap "cyclone" lid does an excellent job. Only miniscule amounts of sawdust reaches the outside. And, emptying the trash can is far and away less hassle than the bags were.


----------



## gmakra (Oct 12, 2016)

What about make up air?
If you have a tightly sealed space you may never achieve your desired CFM if you exhaust it to the outside.
One ton of air conditioning is 400 CFM so if you dump to the outside you could end up wasting energy.


----------



## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

> What about make up air?
> If you have a tightly sealed space you may never achieve your desired CFM if you exhaust it to the outside.
> One ton of air conditioning is 400 CFM so if you dump to the outside you could end up wasting energy.
> 
> - gmakra


Have you read the discussion? That's all they've talked about.

I'm trying to figure mine out today. My collector is in a closet. It will not be easy to get a big drum out of there and then outside. My choices seems to be to collect outside or make it easier to get the drum out to empty. I guess it makes more sense to separate before the blower, but I think I could do either. Thinking about just using the separator part of my DC on top of a 55 gal drum and then where the filter bag goes create a device that will have the duct going to the outside thru a dryer vent. I may put another dryer vent facing the inside for makeup air. I'm not too worried about losing conditioned air. Like Gene said, it's not on for a long time. What heat or AC I lose will be regained pretty quickly.


----------



## DrDirt (Feb 26, 2008)

"the Wood Whisperer" vented outside in Phoenix…. so maybe it isn't as bad as I envision…

http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/episode-2-the-king-and-his-castle/

He discusses at the ~18 minute mark… that was in his original shop… circa 2006


----------



## DrDirt (Feb 26, 2008)

"the Wood Whisperer" vented outside in Phoenix…. so maybe it isn't as bad as I envision…

http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/episode-2-the-king-and-his-castle/

He discusses at the ~18 minute mark… that was in his original shop… circa 2006

Then in his new shop he talks about how he did some upgrades… his focus was to get all fine dust out of the shop…versus "collection"

http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/air-quality-upgrades/


----------



## Bill7255 (Feb 23, 2012)

I have been venting with a cyclone outside for over a year and there is no accumulation outside near the vent. I converted a Jet 3hp 1900 to a cyclone system. I am using a cyclone I purchased fro eBay around $200. I looked at some of the name systems and price wise this was my least expensive choice. My old system was a Jet 1100 with a vortex installed and a Thien separator before the DC. It had a Wynn filter installed. I used this system for about 6-7 years. The Thien does a great job with chips, but not much at all with fine dust. If I ran my drum sander I would have to clean the filter no matter what. The cyclone captures almost all of the dust, just no comparison. My shop is heated 24/7 with in floor hot water heat. Therefore my heat in the structure and tools. I do not notice any reduction in shop temperature even on the coldest days in the winter running the DC. I don't have AC, so do not know that effect. A different type heating system could have a different outcome. Venting outside was one of the best things I did. I do not have any reduction in air flow for the filter clogging. You still need to be smart about it with neighbors, make up air etc and will still need a respirator for a lot of operations.


----------



## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

> True that air itself is a poor conductor (that is why Down Jackets and Fiberglass insulation work) but that counts on TRAPPED air
> 
> - DrDirt


Moving air is also a poor conductor. Ultimately what's going to matter is how much mass is in your shop. I know two guys who vent outdoors and both tell me that it makes no difference in ambient air temperature. One guy's shop is about 3X the size of the other. I've been in the larger shop when snow was on the ground and no matter how much the DC ran (he has a 3hp and 5hp) the thermometer never dropped a degree, he makes a big deal out of it because people are always skeptical. It works because all those cast iron machines, floors, walls, ceiling, fixtures, etc., hold the heat. If you have a very small shop in a cold climate then it might feel drafty and make a difference.


----------



## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

Wind Chill. It is NOT about changes in ambient temperature. It is the perceived change in temperature on the skin. The ambient temperature, in a shop, can stay the same while the woodworker freezes/chills, forcing them to dress in heavier clothing and possibly long sleeves that may be a danger in the WW shop.



Explanation

A surface loses heat through conduction, convection, and radiation.[1] The rate of convection depends on both the difference in temperature between the surface and the fluid surrounding it and the velocity of that fluid with respect to the surface. As convection from a warm surface heats the air around it, an insulating boundary layer of warm air forms against the surface. Moving air disrupts this boundary layer, or epiclimate, allowing for cooler air to replace the warm air against the surface. The faster the wind speed, the more readily the surface cools.

The effect of wind chill is to increase the rate of heat loss and reduce any warmer objects to the ambient temperature more quickly. Dry air cannot, however, reduce the temperature of these objects below the ambient temperature, no matter how great the wind velocity. For most biological organisms, the physiological response is to generate more heat in order to maintain a surface temperature in an acceptable range. The attempt to maintain a given surface temperature in an environment of faster heat loss results in both the perception of lower temperatures and an actual greater heat loss. In other words, the air 'feels' colder than it is because of the chilling effect of the wind on the skin. In extreme conditions this will increase the risk of adverse effects such as frostbite.


----------



## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

I have a very small shop. I imagine that my shop will cool down a bit when I use the DC for a while. Cool air will come in. The cool air will be warmed by radiation from the warm things and my heater will run for a few minutes. So it will cost some extra electric for heating, but I will never have to buy an expensive filter or clean a filter and the air will be cleaner in my shop. Finally if our weather trend keeps up, I won't have to worry about the cold. It was 82 on November 1.


----------



## AZWoody (Jan 18, 2015)

> Wind Chill. It is NOT about changes in ambient temperature. It is the perceived change in temperature on the skin. The ambient temperature, in a shop, can stay the same while the woodworker freezes/chills, forcing them to dress in heavier clothing and possibly long sleeves that may be a danger in the WW shop.
> 
> - HorizontalMike


This. I vent outside and I have a 5hp dust collector. My shop is 20×40 with 12 foot ceilings. In the summer, the makeup air that comes into the shop is hot, sometimes 120 degrees and I can definitely feel it and I can watch the thermometer inside the shop raise to where the air conditioner cannot keep up. In the winter when it's 30 degree air, my skin definitely feels the cold air in the shop rather than the machines that "hold" the heat.

That is why I'm looking to get a swamp cooler for the summers so that the makeup air is being provided from the outside, through the cooler and putting that into the shop. For the winter, I'm not sure yet exactly what I will use but I might try some kind of infrared heaters placed in strategic positions around the shop.


----------



## Bill7255 (Feb 23, 2012)

My shop is 30 X 50. I have a drop ceiling 12'. My insulation is in the roof rafters. My make up air is from my gable vents in the building above the drop ceiling. So my makeup air is being drawn in from the gable vents above the drop ceiling, mixed with with the warmer air above the drop ceiling and then drawn down into the shop. I don't notice any change when my DC is running. I guess I have a unique shop setup. This works for me, I don't need extra clothes or anything. My skin doesn't freeze.


----------



## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

> Wind Chill. It is NOT about changes in ambient temperature.
> - HorizontalMike


If you can calculate wind chill from your DC, it is way oversized for your shop! Also impressive 



> ...the makeup air that comes into the shop is hot, sometimes 120 degrees and I can definitely feel it and I can watch the thermometer inside the shop raise to where the air conditioner cannot keep up.
> 
> - AZWoody


Isn't your shop an uninsulated metal building?


----------



## AZWoody (Jan 18, 2015)

> Wind Chill. It is NOT about changes in ambient temperature.
> - HorizontalMike
> 
> If you can calculate wind chill from your DC, it is way oversized for your shop! Also impressive
> ...


No it is insulated. It is inside a large 8 bay metal shop but in a room that is insulated and sheet rocked. 
The makeup air comes in directly from the outside, so insulation wouldn't make a difference.
Same as having an insulated house and leaving the doors open, the house will start to take on the temperature of the outside.


----------



## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

> Wind Chill. It is NOT about changes in ambient temperature.
> - HorizontalMike
> 
> If you can calculate wind chill from your DC, it is way oversized for your shop! Also impressive
> ...


When you can understand wind chill and heat index, THEN maybe we can have a conversation. Everything you say about "ambient temperature" I already agree with. Please do NOT confuse the two. I would/am concerned with HOW a WW'r feels/dresses in the ww-shop.

Other than that… Have a happy day…


----------



## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

I use a Thien and vent outside. Why use a Thien if I vent outside? Because I don't want to deal with filter bags, but I am not in a position to shoot everything outside. Hardly any accumulation outside. I assume this means that not that much goes outside, and a good bit of that gets dispersed.

i think the efficiency question is difficult with a Thien since every one is a little (or a good deal) different since they are all homemade. I think mine is so efficient (very little pressure loss) mostly out of dumb luck. I used weatherstripping to seal the lower outside circle and it seems to work really well. If I made another, it might not work as well. Who knows?

I'm very happy with my setup.


----------



## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

> When you can understand wind chill and heat index, THEN maybe we can have a conversation. Everything you say about "ambient temperature" I already agree with. Please do NOT confuse the two. I would/am concerned with HOW a WW'r feels/dresses in the ww-shop.
> 
> Other than that… Have a happy day…
> - HorizontalMike


I responded light heartedly, no reason to be a dick especially when all you did was take a minor point I made and copy/paste a wikipedia article about it. Venting outside may not work for everyone, like people in extreme conditions, or with undersized heating/cooling units, or that live close to others, but that doesn't mean it isn't worth considering. The subject has come up many times and there have been enough people over the years who spoke up and said it works for them and you've been around long enough to have read those comments.


----------



## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

> I responded light heartedly, no reason to be a dick especially when all you did was take a minor point I made and copy/paste a wikipedia article about it. Venting outside may not work for everyone, like people in extreme conditions, or with undersized heating/cooling units, or that live close to others, but that doesn t mean it isn t worth considering. The subject has come up many times and there have been enough people over the years who spoke up and said it works for them and you ve been around long enough to have read those comments.
> - Rick M.


And I thought your name was Rick, not Dick… Silly me though, I DID think you all looked alike… ;-)


----------



## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

> And I thought your name was Rick, not Dick… Silly me though, I DID think you all looked alike… ;-)
> 
> - HorizontalMike


Silly you.


----------



## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Anyway, I want to get back to my point before that pointless derail. Here is a 19th century dust collection system that I would like to implement in my shop. Basically an outdoor separator and it doesn't have to be fancy because any leakage will be outside. Heavy stuff drops, fines go up the chimney. Depending on the height of the chimney, many of them will probably settle back into the bottom. Thoughts?


----------



## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

It's tall. How tall is your shop?


----------



## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Oh yeah, the one in the illustration is probably 20' tall or more, it would have to be scaled down.


----------



## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

It could work. My biggest concern would be keeping the sawdust dry. Have to have a good way to clear sawdust out of the bottom, kind of like an outside ash removal door.


----------



## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

I would put a plastic tub or something in the bottom, make it easy to empty.


----------



## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

> I would put a plastic tub or something in the bottom, make it easy to empty.
> 
> - Rick M.


You'd lose your nineteenth-century cred


----------



## DrDirt (Feb 26, 2008)

> I would put a plastic tub or something in the bottom, make it easy to empty.
> 
> - Rick M.
> 
> ...


Needs to be a nice coopered half barrel with cast iron rings binding the staves together, and a chatham rope made of flax fibers


----------



## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

Here's what I just finished yesterday. It's ugly, but works great. Vents out side wall thru a dryer vent. Separator is just the original one from the harbor freight with a little modification I did to make it a bit better. As has been said, it doesn't need to get all the fines since it just goes out the back of my shop into the woods.


----------



## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

> Needs to be a nice coopered half barrel with cast iron rings binding the staves together, and a chatham rope made of flax fibers
> 
> - DrDirt


We need Ron Aylor on this so we can learn to do it by candlelight.


----------



## Rob_s (Sep 12, 2016)

> Here s what I just finished yesterday. It s ugly, but works great. Vents out side wall thru a dryer vent. Separator is just the original one from the harbor freight with a little modification I did to make it a bit better. As has been said, it doesn t need to get all the fines since it just goes out the back of my shop into the woods.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


that looks great!

Question (because I really don't know and am curious)...

Why not turn the motor on it's side and duct it straight down to the barrel?


----------



## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

That's a good question. I know a lot of people have done just that. Eliminates bends and friction loss. It has been suggested and I don't know if it's a real concern, but suggested that the bearings on the fan are not designed to be on their side. It's probably fine and I could do that someday.


----------



## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

They are roller bearings, same as lathes, drill presses, saws, and roller blades, use them in any direction you like.


----------



## Rob_s (Sep 12, 2016)

> That s a good question. I know a lot of people have done just that. Eliminates bends and friction loss. It has been suggested and I don t know if it s a real concern, but suggested that the bearings on the fan are not designed to be on their side. It s probably fine and I could do that someday.
> 
> - firefighterontheside


In your case, now that I look at it, I think doing so might mean you'd have to cut a new hole in the wall, in which case I'd probably leave it alone too. You'd almost need to mount the motor where the hole is and put the hole where the mount is now.

Thanks for the reply, either way.


----------



## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

You're right. I probably won't do it.


----------



## mcg1990 (Nov 11, 2014)

Wow, this thread exploded. I haven't been able to read all the replies, but here's my update:

i took apart the DC and mounted the motor/impeller to the wall. It vents directly outside, and connects to a Woodriver trashcan separater sat about 18" directly beneath the DC. Then I continue on to my tools as per.

Observations include noticeably increased airflow/cfm (though not measured) at the tool. As others have stated, it's still not enough to catch all the fine dust. My thinking is, although there may still be fine dust in the air even if you can't smell anything, if you CAN smell dust.. there must be a lot. So I still wear a dust mask.

My problem is that if my 30gal trash can gets so much as half full, the DC starts pulling up the chips and expelling them outside.There's no baffle in between the sitting chips and the air being drawn up into the impeller and outside. I'll probably mod something fairly rudimentary for this. I doubt a full Thien baffle to be necessary.

I certainly don't rate the Woodriver trashcan separator, and wish I'd just made something myself. I thought the $35 would be a time saver, but I'm still going to have to spend time on it. I now have to have a second trash can next to the first, and empty the 1st into the 2nd about 3 times before finally taking out the 2nd trashcan for dumping. This adds a BUNCH of dust into the air as I tip can 1 into can 2.

Oh well. We live, we learn, we put off improvements for another 6 months. It's the woodworker's way.


----------



## Rob_s (Sep 12, 2016)

> Wow, this thread exploded. I haven t been able to read all the replies, but here s my update:
> 
> i took apart the DC and mounted the motor/impeller to the wall. It vents directly outside, and connects to a Woodriver trashcan separater sat about 18" directly beneath the DC. Then I continue on to my tools as per.
> 
> ...


If I go that route I'm probably still going to put a Super Dust Deputy underneath the motor.
http://www.oneida-air.com/inventoryD.asp?item_no=AXD002030A&CatId={17F46883-40BB-471E-982F-E5F28583241B}


----------

