# Drying time for BLO



## bluekingfisher (Mar 30, 2010)

I posted earlier on a project I'm working on with reclaimed antique oak with regards to staining/finishing etc etc.

I have decided to use an oil straight onto the raw timber. I was thinking of using BLO? what is the drying time for BLO compared to say an off the shelf "Danish oil"? would BLO be a good choice or would a hardwax oil be better?

Would one coat of oil suffice prior to finishing with a couple of top coats of varnish or shellac. Any thoughts on the suitability of shellac. The project is a chimney cupboard for the dining room, which will see little in the way of use or heavy traffic.

Thanks folks.

David


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## wisno (Feb 26, 2010)

The BLO is boiled linseed oil. It is the type of oil finish. The properties is about the same with other oil finish such as: Danish oil,teak oil, tung oil or other oil finish.

I prefer to finish with shellac or varnish.

Thanks

Good luck


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## bluekingfisher (Mar 30, 2010)

Thanks wisno - I have used danish oil on a lot of projects but never BLO so was just wondering if it took a lot longer to dry.

Once the oil is dry I was going to finish with varnish, just not sure what type yet.

Thanks for responding


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

I'm no finishing expert…in fact, I hate it (with the exception of that first grain popping wetcoat). I'm a big fan of Danish Oil, especially the walnut tinted versions. I use it totally inappropriately on projects I shouldn't. In my experience, BLO dries much more slowly that Danish or Tung oils. I've been corrected several times about how they all differ/how they're all the same (?). If you heat the piece in the sun for a bit, it'll really wick up the BLO and it's a glorious thing, too. My BLO is much thicker than other oils. I've never cut it, which is why mine might take so long to dry. So in sum, I don't know! Good luck!


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

Try this.
Old Masters tung oil wiping varnish. Put it on after the shellac. Scuff lightly between coats with wool or synthetic. About 4 coats rubbed out and waxed will give ya a great finish. Wait about a week for the wool/wax rub out. THat'll give the varnish a little more time to cure.
Bill


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## bluekingfisher (Mar 30, 2010)

Bertha/Bill - thanks for responding, every little bit helps.

Bill - I don't know of Old Masters wiping varnish, I don't hink we have it here in the UK at least not under that trade or brand name…..........which is half the problem I think, too much choice and branding of products that claim to be the same but are not and those which claim to be different and are not.

However, do you apply the shellac to the rawtimber then the wiping varnish on top of that once dry.

I can see why finishing is ones of those tasks you either love or fear! I'm in the second boat on that one


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## hObOmOnk (Feb 6, 2007)

Note: Many brands of so called "Danish Oil" are *NOT* oils - they merely contain oil. Sometimes they contain as little as 10% oil. Although one brand of Danish Oil is 100% Polymerized Linseed Oil. The oils used in various brands of Danish Oil finishes varies from linseed oil, tung oil, modified soya oil and others. Some formulations contains more than one type of oil.

Chicken soup isn't a chicken. It contains chicken. 

Wiping varnishes are a good way to go on oak.

Blessings,
Bro. Tenzin


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## ClintSearl (Dec 8, 2011)

See my blog on the subject of finish selection.


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## renners (Apr 9, 2010)

I ran into all sorts of trouble with an oak table I oil finished a couple of months ago. It went three shades darker than I wanted, wouldn't dry, and I ended up sanding it all off and starting again. I have never seen 'wiping varnish' in the UK, but you can make your own by adding white spirit to Polyurethane varnish. I found a 50:50 mix was quick to dry and seal for the first coat, then 30:70 for the following coats.
It will give a good finish and dry much more quickly than oil. Drying time is a problem for me so anything that isn't hanging around for days is good in my opinion.
You can de-nib and buff it to a nice lustre with 0000 wire wool. Wax it then if you want a shine.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

I usually mix 2 parts BLO with 1 part mineral spirits. I don't flood the piece but rather apply a healthy squirt from a squeeze bottle and rub it over the project until it appears dry. Repeat this a couple of times the first day, then rub withdry rag every couple of hours to get any oil that weeps back. This method allows good penetration yet avoids waiting for days for it to dry. My area is very humid and this process has worked well for me. Hope this helps. My wife and I did the entire floor of my office on a Saturday and by Monday it was open for business with no stickiness.


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## bluekingfisher (Mar 30, 2010)

Thanks a lot fellahs for responding, some good tips and info gleaned there.

I have given a test piece of the oak a wipe with the Danish oil (Rustins) and would appear to be the colour I am looking for.

I also tried a white spirit (mineral spirit I think) poly varnish mix then wiped that onto the bare wood. It produced a kind of dirty dark brown colour rather than the golden colour produced by the oil.

I think I'll go with oil onto the wood, wait for it to dry then apply the poly/spirit wiping varnish mix to see how that goes.

Thank all.

David


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