# Care and Feeding of an old Workbench



## PeteJacobsen (Feb 11, 2008)

I've recently acquired my grandfather's workbench. He was in the carpenter's union from 1908 to 1958 when he retired, working almost exclusively in Chicago. I remember this workbench in his basement over 50 years ago. Because of a shipping label on one of the legs, I suspect it may date from the first World War when he worked for the war effort in Seattle, then moved back to Chicago.

The workbench has both a face vice and a tail vise. Both have wooden screws, roughly 2 inches in diameter. They both move, but not at all smoothly. I need to lubricate these wooden screws, and am looking for advice on what to use. I'd particularly like to hear from anyone with experience with this type of screw.

On a related note, the vise has not been used since my grandfather's death about 45 years ago, and may not have been used for several years before that. Is there anything I should do, especially with the vises, before I really put it to use?

Thanks for any help you can give. Once I get it cleaned up a bit, I'll post a picture.


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## offseid (Jan 16, 2008)

Wow, what a great problem to have. I'll defer to the real woodworkers here for their wisdom, but as for me, I'd probably just sand it down and apply some oil to it, make sure all the joints are tight. As for the screws, wax is all I know of to use as a good wood lubricant.


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## Tangle (Jul 21, 2007)

I'd just get a can of Min-Wax furniture wax and apply a good coat to the screws after wipeing them down with a dry cloth. An air chuck on a compressor will help as well. Then I would get out the tools and go to work. Use will tell you what you need to do next.


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## grumpycarp (Feb 23, 2008)

can we see it, can we see it?


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## Dadoo (Jun 23, 2007)

I have an old single screw that was used as a tail vise…It comes apart easily and can be wirebrushed to clean up the threads. Don't forget the base is threaded too. Then wax (not oil) it good and reinstall. Oil on the threads will find it's way into your project, ruining the finish. OH…If the handle is sound, keep it. It's a part of the history of the vise!


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## MikeLingenfelter (Feb 19, 2007)

Yes, lets see some pictures.


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## TheKiltedWoodworker (Dec 21, 2006)

Another thing to look at is the flatness of the top. If you're going to really use the bench for woodworking, then it will need to have the top flattened (if it isn't, of course - if I were a bettin' man, I'd lay money on it not being flat, though).

Some people might bawk at this, wanting to maintain the integrity and character of the bench. That's fine if you don't want to use it. Call it a museum piece or something. Maybe you could put it behind your sofa and call it a sofa table.

But using a woodworking bench that isn't flat will create more frustrations for you than anything, especially if you do any hand plane work.

I think your grandfather would prefer you get it fixed up and cleaned up and put it to good use.


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## PeteJacobsen (Feb 11, 2008)

Alright, after reading about Photobucket and resizing photos, I'll try to provide a picture of my grandfather's workbench:



Assuming that all the html I can see above will produce the picture of the workbench, I'll attempt to include a picture of the face vise as well:



The first pic should show that I haven't even cleaned it yet. I'm still sort of studying it. The second pic should show the large wooden screw that operates the face vise. I bought some paraffin today and plan to use it to lubricate the screw and the two guides.

Pete


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## PeteJacobsen (Feb 11, 2008)

A bit more on the workbench: I notice that the pics were truncated on the right, so you cannot see all of the tail vise. I think the pic conveys the style of the workbench, however. By comparison with most plans for workbenches I've seen, this is unusal in that it is bolted together using several perhaps 6" long, 1/2" bolts and nuts, and in several places large lag screws. Also, the top is completely separate from the base. I mean separate - they aren't even connected! The top cross-pieces of the base are sort of captured by pieces under the top, but you can literally pick up both ends of the top and walk away. I'm trying to think of a non-intrusive way to steady everything - perhaps some clamped bracing.

As Ethan pointed out, the top is no longer flat, and I've got some work to do there. I also thank Thos. suggestion of using compressed air - it got some of the … uh … hmmm … debris out of various cracks, and will make the general cleamup easier.

On the original question, I'm planning to melt some of the paraffin and brush it onto the inner parts of the vise. I know furniture wax was suggested, but there was none in the three rows of Min-Was products I looked at today. If anyone knows anything against paraffin, let me know. I plan to hold off a day or two. I've waited for this workbench for over 20 years, so a couple more days is no big deal.

Pete


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## jeffthewoodwacker (Dec 26, 2007)

You have a couple of choices to make: 1. as mentioned above call it museum piece clean it up and put it on display or 2. spend some time fixing it up and use it as a workbench. Myself, I would refurbish it and get it working hard as a workbench. Paraffin is not the best choice to wax the threads. Brush clean the wooden threads and put a good coat of paste wax on them and buff it in. As for the top try and come up with a way to bolt it securely to the base. A good workbench is rock solid. Several choices for getting the top flat. You could take the top to a cabinet shop and let them run it through a wide drum sander or planer. Another choice would be to build a flattening jig for a router. Whatever choice you make it appears that you have a workbench that you will chersh for a long time.


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## PeteJacobsen (Feb 11, 2008)

Jeff: It won't be a museum piece! I definitely plan on putting it to work. My plan for the top first involves making some decisions on: a) a noticeable split in one of the boards; and b) handling a spot where someone (recently) gouged it badly with a saw. On the second item, I plan to enlarge and smooth out the bad spot, then carve a replacement huck to glue in. On the first item, I'm still unsure. Eventually, however, I plan to tackle it with a large plane, then a sander. I'm still thinking about how to best make it "rock solid" without butchering the original design of the bench. Thanks for the comment regarding paste wax - I'll hunt around for that.

Pete


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## juniorjock (Feb 3, 2008)

Pete, I echo what everyone else here has said. You have a treasure…. a big treasure. And putting it to work would be the best thing. That's what it was made for. I'm not a master woodworker or anything like that, but I have a suggestion you may want to try on the wooden threads. Grizzly sells a lubricant called Slip It…. It's just what the name says. You can buy it in a qt. can or a spray can. A little dab goes a long way. It's silicone free so it won't stain the wood. I use it on every non-painted surface in my shop to prevent rust. It helps wood glide accross the table on my table saw. I was making a jig once and had cut a small piece of pine to fit into a cut-out on another. The fit was very tight and I thought I was going to have to try to shave some off, but a dab of this stuff on the sides and it slid right in. I'd test a small area with the Slip It before applying it to all the threads. Thanks for sharing those photos. You are a very lucky man.


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## CedarFreakCarl (Apr 21, 2007)

Pete, that's just one of the coolest family heirloom tools I've ever seen. I've got a few drawknives, and adze and a stanley 45 plane that were all my grandfather's, but what you've got there is just plain priceless! Thanks for posting!


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## Glitteringsky (Mar 6, 2008)

Wow that's a beautiful vise. And it isn't even polished up yet. Awesome old bench. Thanks for posting it.


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## dennis (Aug 3, 2006)

Wow. What a treasure!


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## robertarthur (Apr 27, 2011)

Pete, I have almost the same workbench from my grandfather in Wisconsin. One board 13 ft long 15" deep plus a tool drop like you have. I am wondering how to finish the top. Do I sand and use an oil or a wax or what. Loved seeing the picture of your bench. I think of my grandfather every time I use it.


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## mrtoasty (Jan 13, 2011)

I am sure you will find this was what was on it when it was built. I built a bench from an old dough table made out of Maple. This is the finish I used and I love it!!!

Here you go.

Shave a hen's-egg-size chunk of beeswax (about 2-ounces) into thin strips using a knife or food grater. Put the beeswax shavings into a pint (16-ounces) of pure gum turpentine and cover until the wax is dissolved into a butter-like blend. Next, add an equal volume of BLO and stir until the mixture is combined into a thick liquid. Brush or wipe the blend over your workbench and allow the "finish" to be absorbed into the wood for an hour or two before you squeegee off the excess. (Put the excess in a tightly sealed container-it is still good and can be used to renew the finish in the future.) Allow the finish to "cure" for a few days and then buff to a soft shine. The original version of this very old recipe called for raw linseed oil. This finish, or something very close to this finish, was most probably used on most of the surviving 18th and 19th century work benches.

Heres the link.

http://hardwoodlumberandmore.com/Articles/ArticleViewPage/tabid/75/ArticleId/18/Workbench-Finish.aspx

You may have to heat this up a little to get it to work. Don't use the wife's microwave, you WELL get in big trouble!!!!!

Les


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

Is the bench located in the permanent environment? It will need to equilibrate (moisture) before you flatten the top. The idea of the wide belt sander is dead on. Once the top has stabilized (temp and moisture) take it to a shop to have it sanded AS LITTLE AS POSSIBLE to flatten it. Put it back on the bench, oil/wax, put it to use.
Bill


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## benchbuilder (Sep 10, 2011)

Just a thought, this bench seems to be in very good condition for its age, that means your grandfather cared about his tools and bench. Now you should care just as much and take your time to rehab this great bench, make your grandfather look down and smile!!!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

What Les said, +1.

Don't worry about the split or the gouge for now, move further down the journey and get a feel for the bench before permanently bolting it to the frame, or sanding it, ir flattening with a router. It'll work fine the way it is, and has come to you this way only once. Take your time.

I have one very similar, and did some work to get it into fighting shape. It needs less than you might think, the bench is a survivor. Congrats!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Resized a bit.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Looks like drawer runners were added. Those interfere with dogs and clamping, and aren't original elements.

Pls consider sharing this on the Bench Smackdown thread, lots to discuss!!


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## kaerlighedsbamsen (Sep 16, 2013)

Looks like a classic german/scandinavian bench. Seems to have a lot of years left in it. Before you start sanding etc try giving it a thourough wash (no abrasive pads).
I have a similar one. Be carfull to grease the threads with a wax product containing oils or solvents as this can be absorbed into the wood and make the vises work badly. I use plain candle wax as recomended of an old carpenter. Just rub it on cold- thats it. Realy surprising that wooden threads can work so nicely and effortlessly.

Hope it will follow you for many years!


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## alittleoff (Nov 27, 2014)

I wish I could find something like you've got. Don't forget to post pictures when your finished with it. It is a very nice table and will be a lot nicer when it's cleaned.
Gerald


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## SirIrb (Jan 12, 2015)

Very nice. I would put minwax wax on the screws. But i havent done such. As posted above, I wish I had your problem. It is kinda like saying "I have so much money and no where to put it".


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

You probably don't need to flatten the top unless you plan on flattening boards or doing joinery.


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

That was probably made by the Christianson company. They made long and short benches, open bases, enclosed bases with drawers and a door, and sold to factories, trade schools, government etc. If it were my bench, which it isn't, I would clean up the top and base with a liquid afterwash type stripper and 0000 steel wool, give it a couple coats of shellac and wax it. I wouldn't sand ANY of the patina out of it at all. I definitely would NOT plane it or use a belt sander on it - you will destroy it's value. Any paste wax or stick wax (used to be sold with canning jars and such) will lubricate the screws.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?147641-My-New-%28very-old%29-Christiansen-Co-Workbench


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## Avogelmi (Nov 8, 2017)

That looks like mine. It was made by Grand Rapids Hand Screw Co. Late 1800s to early 1900s.
I have it off its base right now because I will be cleaning up the vises and waxing them.
Screws are all wood. 
Had to make a handle for the front vise. The old one wasn't original and it did not look like it either.
Just met a guy at one of my known sources for traditional hand tools (Antique Shop) and started talking.
He later sent me pictures and I went to look at it. We settled for $500 
I want to use it, but not sure if I want to plane down the surface or leave it as is.
Anyone have any suggestions.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e107/Avogelmi/Bench%20Tag_zpsnaxsdkek.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e107/Avogelmi/Bench%20Tail_zpsz4mjrgn2.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e107/Avogelmi/Bench%20Tail%20Front_zpsuo0ykamm.jpg


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Sorry Avogelmi, but Photosuckit no longer plays nice and I refuse to use it / click a link to them. You're better off uploading pics of your workbench directly to LJs for us to see.


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## Avogelmi (Nov 8, 2017)

Here is my bench. As stated above it is late 1800s to early 1900s. Made by Grand Rapids Hand Screw Co in Michigan. Working on tightening up the vises now, but need some advise on what to do next. I want to make it my primary bench for traditional woodworking.
Also what should I use or do to get a good grip from the vises? It had what looked like strips of old carpet in them.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Adding leather to the vice chops is a common thing and very effective to aid work holding. I use contact cement and the results last a couple of years before having to re-glue.

As far as the top and using your bench, I'd say get busy using it! Benches do not have to be truly flat to work; only through use will you be able to determine suitability. That bench looks great. Guessing no tressel base by the looks of the sawhorses underneath? Going to make one?


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## Avogelmi (Nov 8, 2017)

> Guessing no tressel base by the looks of the sawhorses underneath? Going to make one?
> 
> - Smitty_Cabinetshop


No I have it off of its base at the moment. I want to make sure the vises are working properly. 
I might need to add some shims where gaps have been worn in to tighten it up.
The tail vise needs some work. Looks like the wooden nut has broke off, so I will need to drill some holes and reattach it with some wood screws.
Would you or anyone here recommend drilling a few round holes for a Hold Fast?
I will be doing alot of relief carving & different jointery using chisels.
Thanks


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

> Would you or anyone here recommend drilling a few round holes for a Hold Fast?
> 
> - Avogelmi


I think if you need or want them, do it. It's your bench, it wants to be used! I have seen these kinds of tops have threaded rod added to strengthen them up, so check that out before drilling.


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