# CYLINDER MAKING



## BertFlores58 (May 26, 2010)

*Cylinder ends*

Probably the best technique in making a cylinder is making first the top and bottom. Then make the wall by following the contour of the ends. I made the two cylindrical ends by using a circular jig with mounted router using 1/8" spiral bit. Then I make a shoulder edges on same jig using 1/4 straight router bits.










I do not have a picture of the round ends showing the dado edges. After the ends were both made, I selected a veneer tha can be wrapped around. I nailed brads to temporarily hold the fitting to the shoulder of the circular ends. Masking tape holds the joints of the veneer's end.










My original plan is to make a single wrap of veneer and glue to it strips of 3/8" wide and 1/8" thick vertical or along the cylindrical lateral side. It will be a difficult work since the joint for the strips will be creating an angle of 360/40 strips/2 = 4.5 degrees. So, I decided to use a Barbeque skewers made from bamboo. Though the skewers are not really of same diameters, they are still on acceptable limits. As you can see, I glued already 2 rods on the sides to start with and will go on until I covered all the sides. I will see whether it will be a good finish afterwards meaning strong and has good texture, otherwise, an outside veneer can be used. This is a good tip…. As there is no fixed plan on this… BETTER TO DECIDE ON THE CHANGE THAT AN ALTERNATIVE OR AN OPTION IS AVAILABLE FOR THE UNEXPECTED.










I already had faced a lot of challenges in this project. I thought it would be easy. 
1) I could not push the veneer from inside to have uniform shape. I just rely on the spring back force of the veneer and the pressure of the tape from the outside. I have to wait now to let dry the glue on the bamboo skewers. 2) I made the shoulder on the ends (only 3/16") that cannot hold much of the veneer that is why I use a brad nail. I like to use a tucker but the uneven edges of the ends gives a lot of problems. And 3) I need to start gluing the skewers on one reference point and not staggered because I am avoiding gaps.

This is an experimental work and have several challenges in me…. such as:

1. How can I cut the box so that the other will become the lid? 
2. I need to make the lipping on the sides which is circular… HOW?
3. I need to reinforce the circular edges (for example a banding or moulding) as there are some evidence of splitting…. How?
4. I had never seen a circular lid that is fitted with a hinge however I am to ambitious to reach this goal.. How?

A lot of unanswered questions and if you will suggest, I will follow and try… What is important is for others to learn the impossible construction of a cylinder made from wood. If it is plastic or steel then it would be easy.

Till next time, Thanks for reading.


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## Roger Clark aka Rex (Dec 30, 2008)

BertFlores58 said:


> *Cylinder ends*
> 
> Probably the best technique in making a cylinder is making first the top and bottom. Then make the wall by following the contour of the ends. I made the two cylindrical ends by using a circular jig with mounted router using 1/8" spiral bit. Then I make a shoulder edges on same jig using 1/4 straight router bits.
> 
> ...


Great info Bert, well done


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## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

BertFlores58 said:


> *Cylinder ends*
> 
> Probably the best technique in making a cylinder is making first the top and bottom. Then make the wall by following the contour of the ends. I made the two cylindrical ends by using a circular jig with mounted router using 1/8" spiral bit. Then I make a shoulder edges on same jig using 1/4 straight router bits.
> 
> ...


Hey Bert, good for you.
I just love playing around and seeing if things work out.
It is looking great so far.
And it got me thinking.

Steve


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## BertFlores58 (May 26, 2010)

BertFlores58 said:


> *Cylinder ends*
> 
> Probably the best technique in making a cylinder is making first the top and bottom. Then make the wall by following the contour of the ends. I made the two cylindrical ends by using a circular jig with mounted router using 1/8" spiral bit. Then I make a shoulder edges on same jig using 1/4 straight router bits.
> 
> ...


Thanks
Just to give a little update.. here is the picture of the lateral side after fitting 50 pcs of skewers:


















Just imagine, I just covered about 1/3 part. The skewers are 1/8 inch in diameter each… Getting good and becoming strong. Till next.


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## Cozmo35 (Feb 1, 2010)

BertFlores58 said:


> *Cylinder ends*
> 
> Probably the best technique in making a cylinder is making first the top and bottom. Then make the wall by following the contour of the ends. I made the two cylindrical ends by using a circular jig with mounted router using 1/8" spiral bit. Then I make a shoulder edges on same jig using 1/4 straight router bits.
> 
> ...


Very cool idea Bert. Thanks for posting.


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## BertFlores58 (May 26, 2010)

*Splitting the cylinder.*

The cylinder is done and splitted into two parts. One becoming the lid and the other the container.










*INLAY ON TOP AND BOTTOM LID.*

The bottom showing the inlay









The top showing the inlay









Prior splitting the lid and container, I made the grove along in preparation for the lipping and banding. I use a Japanese saw to make the guide and then use a square file to make the grove and control the depth. This is the same method in making the groove for the top and bottom where an inlay was made out of black - Philippine ebony "Kamagong". Just imagine how you will prepare a banding which is 1/16 thick and 1/8 width. Well, patience. I made the banding by ripping manually then sanding it with portable sander. The grains is too tought to control from splitting. Kamagong was really strong and I need to make several layers of tape to hold it in place. I did not steam it neither mold it.

*SPLITTING.*

Splitting the two done by a Japanese saw being so precise. Quite persevering…. nothing to hold it but my left hand. I cannot use clamps because it is very resilient but quite strong as a whole. My last bit of cutting was really tough not to destroy the inside veneer. 
Here is the picture after splitting









Up to this time …. There are some challenges to go… the LIPPING, the HINGE.

Till next.


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## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

BertFlores58 said:


> *Splitting the cylinder.*
> 
> The cylinder is done and splitted into two parts. One becoming the lid and the other the container.
> 
> ...


Hey Bert, that is looking good.

I have to see how you are going to hinge this thing.

Steve


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## BertFlores58 (May 26, 2010)

BertFlores58 said:


> *Splitting the cylinder.*
> 
> The cylinder is done and splitted into two parts. One becoming the lid and the other the container.
> 
> ...


Steve, I dont know if it will work out. I am a metal worker and had done many times empty drums converted into a hinge cylinder and those works well. My target is for the user not to lost the lid. I try the lipping first. 
Thanks,


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## BertFlores58 (May 26, 2010)

*The Original Plan is Better*

*The LIPPING.*

Using my circular cutting jig for the router, I was able to fabricate a special rings that will serve as the lippings. It was several passes from two faces of the rings. the Lips has to be rabetted in such way that it will fit in all aspects. Here it is the final glue up…. not sanded yet.




























The last phase will be next week. THE HINGE and the FINISH. Nearly done.

*
THE ORIGINAL PLAN IS BETTER….*

I earlier planned to use strips of wood (semilar with flat popsicle stick) to be the side instead of these skewers as shown above. I have made additional circular ends so I constructed the original plan. This is the second time of making cylinder so I am avoiding those problems I got from the first job. So it became better.


























Some points I learned:
1) The veneer (inner wall) was cut diagonally so there will be continuity of strength while gluing. 
2) After I finished the gluing the strips, I have to detached from the ends (lid and bottom circles) and then check out for the inside part and make tight while the glue is still dry. (I noticed that if there are no air in the glue, it dries so slow so I took out the masking tape and press them to remove the excess glue.

A present, I have already sanded the sides… look like a pipe… I am happy with the second one. 
Till next weekend. I can do my hobby only weekends… Probably, I can do some veneering..

God bless and Thanks,


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## scrollgirl (May 28, 2010)

BertFlores58 said:


> *The Original Plan is Better*
> 
> *The LIPPING.*
> 
> ...


It looks great Bert. I really like seeing this come to be. You do wonderful work and help a lot of people with your blog here. Thanks!

Sheila


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## GrandpaLen (Mar 6, 2012)

BertFlores58 said:


> *The Original Plan is Better*
> 
> *The LIPPING.*
> 
> ...


Bert,

Most of us can do square boxes, some can do amazing square boxes.

I am learning as You go, to do round boxes as You go through this tutorial.

Thanks for sharing. - Len


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## BertFlores58 (May 26, 2010)

BertFlores58 said:


> *The Original Plan is Better*
> 
> *The LIPPING.*
> 
> ...


Thanks. The one that triggered me to do the round or cylinder type is the difficulty of doing it. Challenge is always there during the construction. Rounding the edges and curve sidewalls can be done by gyration or rotating the cutting bit from a center. Easy when you make with lathe machine, but my target is to use only what is available. That makes the challenge.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

BertFlores58 said:


> *The Original Plan is Better*
> 
> *The LIPPING.*
> 
> ...


Hi Bert
I apologize for being late to the party but I'm caught up now. 
This is really a cool idea.
Your imagination knows no bounds and your courage to attempt anything you can dream up is just as admirable.
...................and then there's the fact that you always succeed.

I can tell you are having fun with this.


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## BritBoxmaker (Feb 1, 2010)

BertFlores58 said:


> *The Original Plan is Better*
> 
> *The LIPPING.*
> 
> ...


Splendid work, Bert. This is a great way to make cylinders.


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## BertFlores58 (May 26, 2010)

BertFlores58 said:


> *The Original Plan is Better*
> 
> *The LIPPING.*
> 
> ...


I am really thankful for both of you Martyn and Paul. You are always behind the scene… Martyn made a round one with bottle mold that is one who triggered me while Paul never ceases to amaze me about the capabilities of veneers that is why I used the veneer. If only I could cut veneer like Paul. I will do this on the side.










or this….










Thanks,


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

BertFlores58 said:


> *The Original Plan is Better*
> 
> *The LIPPING.*
> 
> ...


sweet work bert

as ever 
onwards
and 
upwards

keep it up


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## BertFlores58 (May 26, 2010)

BertFlores58 said:


> *The Original Plan is Better*
> 
> *The LIPPING.*
> 
> ...


Thanks David,
You can see the rabetting on the rims… that's your style that I copied only that it is now applied upside down and circular motion. I will have a long way though to have fully your skill cutting pieces for 10 boxes in an hour. My next challenge probably will have to do with starboard side and port side… ???... just leftwards and rightwards too.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

BertFlores58 said:


> *The Original Plan is Better*
> 
> *The LIPPING.*
> 
> ...


You can do it Bert. If I can, you can.
I'm doing some curved marquetry glue-up right now and it turns out it's not so tough.
I have full confidence that anything *you* set your mind to, you can do and do well.


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## BritBoxmaker (Feb 1, 2010)

BertFlores58 said:


> *The Original Plan is Better*
> 
> *The LIPPING.*
> 
> ...


That looks easy enough to do if you make yourself a template for the curves first, Bert. Go on have a go.


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## BertFlores58 (May 26, 2010)

*Wooden Hinge for Cylinder... Is it possible?*

The hardest challenge in this series is to make the WOODEN HINGE for a cylinder side. The difficulty of the curve fitting and the alignment of the pin to cater the correct pivot.

*LID PART* . The lid being the one that is on top will take the whole arc that will be close to the outermost part and length will just be enough to hold the post on each end. This must be tangent to the circumference and must be at right angle (at first only so as to route the slot that will hold the pin). You may ask how I cut the arc on the ebony to fit the curve side… coping saw, then file, spokeshave and sander. Nothing best but carve into shape.










*THE MAIN POST.* The plan is to have a vertical post that will run through the length of the main cylinder (the bottom part). This will provide full strength. However, I am testing the sides (made from bamboo skewers and a thin veneer) whether it can hold the lid. Though the lipping is strong, I am still having a reservation that pinned hinge to the sides will be forced by accidentally opening the lid at quick motion. There is also an alternative to fit transverse to support the end posts together. I have not decided yet. Here is what it is until today. I have to wait for the glue to cure on the lid.

Please note that I am using real black ebony (KAMAGONG) the best and very strong. It highlights the design too.










You can see the fitting of the right angled hinge. I have to be very accurate 









This is how it will fit on the circular arc… the secret is grinding with a dremel and portable sander.










I think gluing the ebony will be easy to clamp but I will do it later. A lot of question still in the process.

1. How will I make the slot… it must not be through?
2. How will I attach the post and make the pin hole or slot for the pin? Which is the best?










*TO TAKE A BREAK, HERE ARE SOME TEASERS FOR YOU.* I was playing with some of my boards and cut them into pieces in my circular cutting jig using a router bit (1/8 spiral bit courtesy of Rand) and here are some designs to go.














































And here are some of new rounds… I will blog this later when I will blog my circular jig…









Till then hope I can finish it this coming weekend…

God bless,


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## BritBoxmaker (Feb 1, 2010)

BertFlores58 said:


> *Wooden Hinge for Cylinder... Is it possible?*
> 
> The hardest challenge in this series is to make the WOODEN HINGE for a cylinder side. The difficulty of the curve fitting and the alignment of the pin to cater the correct pivot.
> 
> ...


Nice patterns, Bert. As for hinging the cylinder, good luck, a master stroke when you succeed.


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## scrollgirl (May 28, 2010)

BertFlores58 said:


> *Wooden Hinge for Cylinder... Is it possible?*
> 
> The hardest challenge in this series is to make the WOODEN HINGE for a cylinder side. The difficulty of the curve fitting and the alignment of the pin to cater the correct pivot.
> 
> ...


My favorite of the teaser designs is the first one you have shown. That would look really nice as part of a box lid. As for the hinge, I will be watching to see how you accomplish it. You are way beyond my skill level, but it is great to watch it come to be. Wonderful work Bert. Always a pleasure to see your in progress pictures.

Have a great day! Sheila


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## adaughhetee (Jan 20, 2011)

BertFlores58 said:


> *Wooden Hinge for Cylinder... Is it possible?*
> 
> The hardest challenge in this series is to make the WOODEN HINGE for a cylinder side. The difficulty of the curve fitting and the alignment of the pin to cater the correct pivot.
> 
> ...


The teasers are teasing me, come on give us more! nice box by the way.


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## BertFlores58 (May 26, 2010)

*THE WOODEN CYLINDER HINGE CHALLENGE*

The most memorable day of all the task I've done… THE HINGE IS FITTED DURING A FLOODY DAY IN MANILA. While almost everywhere in Manila is underwater, I finally glue up and made the slot for pin for the hinges. As it was raining hard, the glue was difficult to dry.

*The SLOT. * The best way is to use 1/8 straight spiral bit for routing the slot. I use portable router and use the guide that will allow me to groove the hinge parallel to the top cover. There are two depth of slot. The ends are double pass with a depth of double the ordinary hinge slot. I need to adjust the pin position depending on the pivot of the cover… The circular part makes it difficult to determine what depth of the pin center. Anyway, cutting the slot deep will allow me to add spacer for adjusting the pin position.

*The POST.* This is the worst to align. Probably it was difficult because this was experimental. I even glue it first to the top cover but it did not workout. The difficulty in doing the pin slot for this has been due to the routing position. The top cover as the guide for the routing will only be good on the right end however on the other end…. it was a disaster. I route the left post manually and I was lucky to have good alignment on it.

*GLUING the post.* The left and right posts have to be taped overnight in proper postion relative to the pin position and alignment. A lot of masking tape was the helping hand for clamping the piece. I was just lucky because I used the rainy day so that the glue will dry slow.










*Adjusting the lid opening.* Using file, I make the recess on the cover arc that touches and also the lid limit for opening. Slow work but very essential.. The beauty of the hinge can be seen when it is open and the arcs of the lid and the main cylinder meet perfectly in the pivot point.



















Until next… God Bless. May this flooding be over and God help those who had suffered!

Till next…. I am attempting to make a latch for the cover and an arc handle. Later it will look like an ice bucket… I am almost surrending….

Here are some pictures:


















*TEASERS' PROGRESS. * Few of you are interested in these designs.. So here they are on the go…


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## GaryC (Dec 31, 2008)

BertFlores58 said:


> *THE WOODEN CYLINDER HINGE CHALLENGE*
> 
> The most memorable day of all the task I've done… THE HINGE IS FITTED DURING A FLOODY DAY IN MANILA. While almost everywhere in Manila is underwater, I finally glue up and made the slot for pin for the hinges. As it was raining hard, the glue was difficult to dry.
> 
> ...


Not sure why but, none of the pictures came through


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## BertFlores58 (May 26, 2010)

BertFlores58 said:


> *THE WOODEN CYLINDER HINGE CHALLENGE*
> 
> The most memorable day of all the task I've done… THE HINGE IS FITTED DURING A FLOODY DAY IN MANILA. While almost everywhere in Manila is underwater, I finally glue up and made the slot for pin for the hinges. As it was raining hard, the glue was difficult to dry.
> 
> ...


Gary, probably by the time you are opening it, I am still online editing it. Otherwise, I have no idea. thanks


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

BertFlores58 said:


> *THE WOODEN CYLINDER HINGE CHALLENGE*
> 
> The most memorable day of all the task I've done… THE HINGE IS FITTED DURING A FLOODY DAY IN MANILA. While almost everywhere in Manila is underwater, I finally glue up and made the slot for pin for the hinges. As it was raining hard, the glue was difficult to dry.
> 
> ...


Just love to watch your creative mind ticking away Bert.
You can do anything you can imagine. 
Good work again.


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## lanwater (May 14, 2010)

BertFlores58 said:


> *THE WOODEN CYLINDER HINGE CHALLENGE*
> 
> The most memorable day of all the task I've done… THE HINGE IS FITTED DURING A FLOODY DAY IN MANILA. While almost everywhere in Manila is underwater, I finally glue up and made the slot for pin for the hinges. As it was raining hard, the glue was difficult to dry.
> 
> ...


Great stuff Bert!

The teasers are a treat.


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## rance (Sep 30, 2009)

BertFlores58 said:


> *THE WOODEN CYLINDER HINGE CHALLENGE*
> 
> The most memorable day of all the task I've done… THE HINGE IS FITTED DURING A FLOODY DAY IN MANILA. While almost everywhere in Manila is underwater, I finally glue up and made the slot for pin for the hinges. As it was raining hard, the glue was difficult to dry.
> 
> ...


Interesting hinge for a cylinder. Fascinating circular designs too.


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## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

BertFlores58 said:


> *THE WOODEN CYLINDER HINGE CHALLENGE*
> 
> The most memorable day of all the task I've done… THE HINGE IS FITTED DURING A FLOODY DAY IN MANILA. While almost everywhere in Manila is underwater, I finally glue up and made the slot for pin for the hinges. As it was raining hard, the glue was difficult to dry.
> 
> ...


That is really neat Bert.
Your mind is just flowing with ideas - keep 'em coming.

Steve


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## BritBoxmaker (Feb 1, 2010)

BertFlores58 said:


> *THE WOODEN CYLINDER HINGE CHALLENGE*
> 
> The most memorable day of all the task I've done… THE HINGE IS FITTED DURING A FLOODY DAY IN MANILA. While almost everywhere in Manila is underwater, I finally glue up and made the slot for pin for the hinges. As it was raining hard, the glue was difficult to dry.
> 
> ...


Interesting ideas, Bert.


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## scrollgirl (May 28, 2010)

BertFlores58 said:


> *THE WOODEN CYLINDER HINGE CHALLENGE*
> 
> The most memorable day of all the task I've done… THE HINGE IS FITTED DURING A FLOODY DAY IN MANILA. While almost everywhere in Manila is underwater, I finally glue up and made the slot for pin for the hinges. As it was raining hard, the glue was difficult to dry.
> 
> ...


Thank you for sharing your process with us Bert. It is so interesting to watch and I love seeing it come to be.

Stay safe and dry!

Sheila


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## Cozmo35 (Feb 1, 2010)

BertFlores58 said:


> *THE WOODEN CYLINDER HINGE CHALLENGE*
> 
> The most memorable day of all the task I've done… THE HINGE IS FITTED DURING A FLOODY DAY IN MANILA. While almost everywhere in Manila is underwater, I finally glue up and made the slot for pin for the hinges. As it was raining hard, the glue was difficult to dry.
> 
> ...


Can't wait to se what comes of these new designs. I may try something similar. Thanks for the inspiration.


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## BertFlores58 (May 26, 2010)

*Blocks stacked together*

Another simple way but needs the skillful hands in stacking domino like pieces vertically rather than horizontally. This came into my mind after looking at the candy circular plastic box. The lid is just right to work as the template guide for the circular arc. The photos below will just explain.

After cutting the scrap pieces of different materials, I produced 3/8 inches thick 5/8×1 inch blocks. Cutting and planing manually is the only way for such small pieces so I used the miter box and nailed a stopper on the end. To make it simple for planing, getting to the right thickness, the blocks were glued on one side to a strip of 3/16×3/8 on different lengths which are also scraps cut to size. Then clamp it with the vise and final planing using a shooting board.



















Resulting to these pieces:



















Plenty of them…. around 180 pieces and thrown out about 20 pieces rejected thickness and wrong length.










Stacking them on the template (plastic circular lid) row by row and piece by piece….(forgot to take a photo thinking that this is only experimental)... I have the result..










Notice that I have 4 rows of those blocks (around 40 pieces per row) stack together and taped on the outside. One row of them is not glued vertically as it will serve as the lid.










That's all for today… some problems are now visible….\

*PROBLEMS….. CAUSE AND EFFECT ….. MAYBE CAN BE SOLVED*

1. Outside gaps.. as the blocks were not tapered but rather cut 90 deg …. mix fine sanding dust with glue and let it be the filler
2. Uneven circles of rows…. The gluing is tough to do stacking the pieces … As long as there is enough thickness that could be left, sanding is the best or take the rimmer for router.
3. Design failure… The white strips are not distributed evenly…. Nevermind, No one will ever see except me or probably the brilliant lumberjocks here..

Hope this is a good way of telling the truth to each one not to commit the same mistake I have encountered. But so far…. hope this will still go on…. My dad said… I rather hammer it down back to pieces and throw it to the furnace… LOL.

Till next time… 
Have a nice day.


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## jap (Oct 10, 2012)

BertFlores58 said:


> *Blocks stacked together*
> 
> Another simple way but needs the skillful hands in stacking domino like pieces vertically rather than horizontally. This came into my mind after looking at the candy circular plastic box. The lid is just right to work as the template guide for the circular arc. The photos below will just explain.
> 
> ...


wow, cool cylinder


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## BritBoxmaker (Feb 1, 2010)

BertFlores58 said:


> *Blocks stacked together*
> 
> Another simple way but needs the skillful hands in stacking domino like pieces vertically rather than horizontally. This came into my mind after looking at the candy circular plastic box. The lid is just right to work as the template guide for the circular arc. The photos below will just explain.
> 
> ...


Bert, I would fill the gaps with a black epoxy (or similar plastic) and sand it down to a regular cylinder. Making the gaps a feature rather than trying to hide them.


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## BertFlores58 (May 26, 2010)

BertFlores58 said:


> *Blocks stacked together*
> 
> Another simple way but needs the skillful hands in stacking domino like pieces vertically rather than horizontally. This came into my mind after looking at the candy circular plastic box. The lid is just right to work as the template guide for the circular arc. The photos below will just explain.
> 
> ...


Martyn, If ever, I have read your comments earlier, I should have done it. It is still possible but I need to clean the gap a litter deeper. The PVA used is still wet. I did not mix sawdust. I will post the progress after I take photos.

Cheers,


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## BertFlores58 (May 26, 2010)

*Progress on Stacked blocks Cylinders*

Here are some pictures after taking out masking tape and regluing the gaps.

This is the plastic lid that became the template for the circle. 

















After regluing the gaps… It is still obvious that some gaps are not yet fully filled up.









Closer…









Still thinking of the best method of filling up the gaps….
(Martyn [Britboxmaker] suggested to use Black epoxy for these as they will also add highlight to the design…. Take it from the expert, why not…) My purpose is to make it strong first then do the top and bottom so I can sand the cover and cylinder at one time.

I would prefer to make the bottom and top first. 
Sanding will be done on the sides.

Regret that I can do only on Saturdays because of office works…

Till then…


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