# Just got my G0715P delivered



## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

Wow - hope goes well


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## runswithscissors (Nov 8, 2012)

I agree, you shouldn't have to put up with that. But my choice would have been to drill and tap the wing. Cast iron isn't hard to drill nor hard to tap. It's a matter of which is the least hassle, for me.


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

What a disappointment….

Rather than wait, I would have bought a tap and drill bit and asked Grizzly to pay for it. If you have never tapped a thread, I would wait for the part.


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## BobinSachse (Jun 6, 2014)

The actual hole is not a tapped hole, but it is an oval hole. Getting it just right would not be really tough, but IF for some reason, something went wrong and it didn't line up properly, would they cover that? I'm not willing to take that gamble… 
I did get a shipping label just after I posted the review andI just dropped the extension wing off at the UPS Store. Now on hold with Tech Support again to inform them I shipped the defective part so they will ship me a new on ASAP. Or so they said. Stay tuned.


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## BobinSachse (Jun 6, 2014)

Just finished with tech Support. The extension wing will be inspected and shipped tomorrow. If UPS does it right, I might have it by Friday.


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## Grumpymike (Jan 23, 2012)

Hmmmm … Makes me wonder. Grizzly, being a supplier of fine machinery, Why didn't they just drill the hole for you if it's that easy? Rather than wait for a replacement part. Just say'n ya know.

My G 0715 went together with out a hitch (other than I miss read the directions); but as you said the tech support is outstanding. 
there was a spot on my saw that the box had rubbed the paint and I asked if there was nay way I could get some touchup paint … Two or three days later UPS delivered a 1/2 pint of touchup to my door.

I hope that you enjoy your G 0715 as much as I have enjoyed mine and I hope that you get as much use out of yours.


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

Why don't you drill and tap the hole yourself?
Anybody can do that.


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## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

> Why don t you drill and tap the hole yourself?
> Anybody can do that.
> 
> - b2rtch


IMO …i feel he should *NOT* have to do this himself ….....good luck to you sir


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## BobinSachse (Jun 6, 2014)

> Why don t you drill and tap the hole yourself?
> Anybody can do that.
> 
> - b2rtch


As I stated in the beginning, "My thoughts are that I paid good $$$ for this saw and I should NOT have to finish their job. And if I did try and make a mistake in alignment, then would they still cover it? Not worth the chance IMHO!!!" 
I will get the new wing tomorrow assuming UPS gets it right…


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## BobinSachse (Jun 6, 2014)

Well,
I did receive the Wing extension on Friday. ALL of the holes were where they were supposed to be on this one. Yesterday, I finished up the assembly. All looks really good!! Everything lined up very well.. Now to begin the cleaning and lubricating everything. Then run a 220v circuit. I have 2 weeks off at Christmas, so I will get it going then.


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## dannmarks (Oct 22, 2016)

I bought this Grizzly G0478 saw back around 1985. Looks just like yours except it is a 12 inch blade. I had to replace the arbor bearing within a few years. Grizzly gave me the part number to get it at motion industries and it was fixed that day for under $5.

I use this saw a whole lot and I used it for all it was worth. We would use it at full depth resawing Beech lumber from 100 year old barn beams to make spiral stair cases. I did everything on it that could be done. I even used it to make custom cove hard wood trim. I just wanted you to know how long these babies last. I have had almost zero problems. Like I said a bearing went out. That is it in 30 plus years…


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## BobinSachse (Jun 6, 2014)

Dan,
Thanks for the encouraging words. I do like grizzly tools. I had a 14" band saw in my last shop. Loved it! I know the extension wing issue was a minor bump in the road. As soon as i get teh 220v circuit run, i will be good to go.


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## dannmarks (Oct 22, 2016)

We just recently moved into our home and my wood shop is the attached 2 car garage and cement driveway. I hated running the new 220v circuit because it had to be fished thru the walls. Forcing Number 8 wire thru the wall and around the corner was really hard. I have run plenty of wiring in my life but it was always in the Basement or in a building with ceilings that one could climb up in and run it along the rafters or buried underground to the barn.

Anyway, I just put in a substation in the garage a few months ago and ran two separate 220 lines with enough plugs that I could plug in my Table saw, Jointer and Planer. I also made a couple of fairly long extension cords so I can roll everything out on the drive way and make the big messes out side. Once it is done you will be so glad. I know I am.


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## BobinSachse (Jun 6, 2014)

My shop is a metal building with no insulation yet and it is only about a 50 foot run. I'm using 12 gauge romex. It will be an easy run. I'm also going fo follow your lead and make extension cords as well.


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## BobinSachse (Jun 6, 2014)

So, at long last, (wrist injury and other family projects), I was able to work on the 715p to see how well it aligns. It was out of alignment with the miter slot about .02" with the blade 1-1/2" up. I spent about 30 minutes fixing that to get to just under .001" Then I raised the blade as far as it would go and it was out +.03!! >:-(

I called Grizzly and was told to see what is did IF I backed off of the height stop just a bit. I'll have to check and see tomorrow. Other threads here have mentioned that if you keep the blade at 3-1/8" it doesn't get as bad. The spec height in the catalog is 3-1/8".

Since I'm not at the shop and won't be there until tomorrow afternoon, what is the MAX the blade goes u p anyway? And if it will go past 3-1/8", then Why is that??


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## dannmarks (Oct 22, 2016)

Yes I believe they are right. You may have run it the limit and put tension on it throwing out of square. Really once you have it aligned - up and down should play no roll at all. Sleep well - it should be good.


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## BobinSachse (Jun 6, 2014)

Yes Dan, You are correct. At 3-1/8" it is only about .001" out *IF* I back the pressure off of the wheel until just before it starts to go down. I will just have to remember to mind the height adjust wheel. It will be ok for most rips and cross cuts, but precise Dados and Lap joints* could* be challenging. Time will tell. My first project will be a stand for my Nova Comet II Midi lathe. I will build the frame using lap joints. Nothing like jumping right into the fire, huh?



> Yes I believe they are right. You may have run it the limit and put tension on it throwing out of square. Really once you have it aligned - up and down should play no roll at all. Sleep well - it should be good.
> 
> - dannmarks


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## Grumpymike (Jan 23, 2012)

Most of the cuts I make in my shop are 3/4 to 1 inch, but occasionally I cut 2 inch material and once that I recall I cut a 4" piece in two passes … Now with that in mind, I wonder why you are so obsessed with a miss-alignment of .001" with the blade height at 3-1/8" height.

Just for grins, I raised my saw blade to the max, I assume 3-1/8, I didn't measure, and I found that three of the Thin Kerf blades had .001 to .003" of wobble … My WoodWorkerII Was the least amount at .001".
So now I mounted three 'standard kerf' blades and came up with about the same results … 
Then I lowered the blade to 1" and ran the same tests with vey close to the same results.
Now, using the one marked tooth alignment method, I'm dead nuts on. But if I force the height wheel, it will increase the miss-alignment … So I never force the wheel, just take it to the stop.

I have had my G-0715P for just over three years now and I am truly happy with it keeping in mind that it's not a $2500 Powermatic with a 5 HP motor.

I sure hope that your wrist heals quickly and you return to the shop and enjoy your new saw.


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## dannmarks (Oct 22, 2016)

I have used mine to do some re-sawing of 20 ft 3' thick Beech to make laminated curved hand rails coming down the spiral stairs. I have buried the blade and probably have stalled it before. I don't remember for sure, but I know it has done very hard work all afternoon. That was probably the toughest it has ever worked. I have seldom used lap joints for some reason. Not sure why, but when I have done them I used a tenon jig for the most part. I hope that you enjoy your saw a lot. It will probably out last you actually. The Saw I learned on was a 15 inch Oliver purchased in 1956 used for $5000. I could not afford that saw so I bought the Grizzly. Yes, it was a step down from the Oliver - but I was a poor struggling student you know…


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## BobinSachse (Jun 6, 2014)

Grumpymike,
I'm not obsessed with .001" off… But .03", well, yes I am…. But now that I know the minor limitations of this really good saw, I can work with them. In the past, I had a used Grizzly 1022ZF Table saw, and it was dead on regardless of where the blade was. That got sold a while back when we downsized our living arrangements. I guess I expected similar on the 715P.


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## Grumpymike (Jan 23, 2012)

Well bob, it looks like we are on the same path … I too had a G-1022 and always thought it was the cat's Pajamas. Forced to sell it during a divorce (had to liquidate a lot of stuff) ... fast forward … bought a used Rigid contractor saw and upgraded to the Grizz 0715.

I was pulling your leg when I used the word obsessed … but I did want to share the findings of some tests that I did with my saw. and the fact that rarely do we cut at full height of the blade.

I did a comparative shopping blog on LJ's when I was looking for a new saw. I compared several saws and price vs: features. By the time it all washed out the Grizz was the best buy for me, and my shop. (My shop and I?)
The base price is very attractive, and after paying the shipping ($99) and adding the roll around stand and adding a Woodworker II blade I was still below the base cost of a Sawstop or a Powermatic.

I ran my saw on 110V for a week till I ran the 220V line, I really didn't notice a lot of difference, but it seems to have a bit more power (?)

Enjoy your new saw and like any woman she will have her quirks.


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## BobinSachse (Jun 6, 2014)

No worries Mike!! It does seem like we have a bit in common concerning the table saws. 
I ran the 220v circuit before the wrist injury. Driving the 8' grounding rod 7.5' into the Texas clay we have here is probably what caused the initial injury and I didn't slow down much until it really began to bother me. Now I am going to start making sawdust again. 
Learning your new tools is a lot like doing good BBQ. One must master their pit and control the fire to get the results they are looking for.


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## dannmarks (Oct 22, 2016)

Bob, you only have .03" when you bottom out the torque screw. This is normal. You are forcing tension into the unit. It is only engineered to be within.003 thru the linear progression guy. Your wood projects will not even be able to notice this value.


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## runswithscissors (Nov 8, 2012)

Mike: "for my shop and me" is correct.


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## BobinSachse (Jun 6, 2014)

OK.. At long last, I have the saw up and functioning. Yippee!! I did run into a bogging problem when I tried to run a dado blade through 2×4 lap joints… I discovered that I needed to adjust the motor/belt tension and it ran wonderfully with no bogging down. Lesson learned. Now that the saw id dialed in, I really like it!!!

This brought me to another discovery. My Craftsman dial-Dado blade doesn't fit so well onto the arbor of this saw. the space between the end of the arbor and the Lower Blade Guard is too small to get the dado blade in without it being dialed to the smallest possible cut. If I want a wider dado cut, I have to attempt to adjust it after it is on the arbor and that is near impossible to see the settings on the blade….

Anyone want a dial dado blade? I need to get a dado stack, or make a crap-ton of passes with a regular blade.


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## Grumpymike (Jan 23, 2012)

Hi Bob,
I used to have one of those "wobbly" blades. I found that it won't make a really flat bottomed dado, the bottom is kind of curved and I just couldn't get the tight fit I wanted … Stack dado is the way to go, and there is a bit of a learning curve, but well worth the effort … You won't look back.


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