# I hate Boeshield T-9, need advice on rust issues...



## TheKingInYellow (Sep 25, 2008)

My one and half week old contractor's saw is already developing some rust on the surface of the table despite using T-9 on it.

To be clear, after I set up the saw, I removed the Cosmoline with WD40 and disposable towels, made sure it was clean and then sprayed on the T-9. To get complete coverage it seemed like I would have to spray it very heavily, so I used some clean cotton rags and rubbed it into the surface although there was still clearly a wet layer on the table. I let it sit for about 45 minutes and then wiped off the excess with disposable towels.

Two days later and I already noticed some rusting. So, this time I put on a heavy coat, rubbed it in lightly with cotton rags and left the heavy coat on untouched for three days of curing. After three days, the surface was STILL tacky to the touch (and picking up dust like no tomorrow) so I wiped down the excess.

Another two days later and the surface is still kind of tacky. I tried to make a cut and it was actually grabbing the wood, and all the sawdust just stuck to the table. It's supposed to be waxy but it's almost gluey, oh and the rusting is getting WORSE.

Am I wrong or is this product HORRIBLE?! I am going to take it all of (hopefully WD40 will do it) and then I need to deal with the rust (not sure what to use) and then reseal it (not sure what to use). This is an unheated/uncooled garage shop so I know that isn't helping matters, but there must be something I can do…

Can anyone suggest some products to try that I can get here in Winnipeg? We have a local LV store but they recommended the T-9 and I don't know what else they carry.

Please help!


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## hokieman (Feb 14, 2008)

Once you get it rust-free, try using some Johnson's Paste Wax. I live in a somewhat humid area and using Johnson's Paste Was works for me. No rust on my table saw and jointer.


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## TheKingInYellow (Sep 25, 2008)

I've heard good things about it but I have no idea where to get it in Winnipeg. I've looked!


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## BlankMan (Mar 21, 2009)

I use Bostik TopCote on all my cast iron table tops. Got a free can when I bought my UniSaw and thought nothing of it. But now after using it for years I'm sold, it does a good job keeping the table tops free of rust. And my shop is in the basement and in the summer being next to Lake Michigan the humidity is high, especially in the basement. I run a dehumidifier during the summer down there but still the humidity stays around 55%.

Oh and the water table is high, when digging post holes I hit water at 3 feet and when finally down to 4 feet it fills up a foot sometimes more that I have to vac out before cementing in the post. Just did 4 this year for trellis's, same thing. Probably why my basement stays humid. And I'm at a high point in my neighborhood too.


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## ArtistryinWood (Apr 21, 2008)

I second the Bostik Topcoat, been using it for years no rust and a slick table top.
LV sells it.

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=40952&cat=1,43415,43440&ap=1

Andrew


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## davidroberts (Nov 8, 2008)

For whatever reason, when I go to the Woodcraft store, I pass by the T-9 spray cans and pick one up, read it a few moments, set it down and move on. As Hokieman said above, J&J is cheap and it works, really well. After your initial application, just reapply lightly once a month or so and fugetaboutit. That's been my experience, in the very hot and humid gulf coast.


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## TheKingInYellow (Sep 25, 2008)

I'd advise that you continue with the tradition of bypassing the T-9 cans!

Here's the plan then: WD40 to take off the T-9 (I hope), Autosol to remove the surface rust, coat with TopCote, polish with Waxilit (silicone-free paste wax). Rewax monthly.

I'll report back!


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## SWM (Jan 10, 2010)

I know the T-9 says that it's for everyday use, but I ran across a blog at highland woodworking a few weeks ago that dealt with all of these rust issues. It seemed to suggest that T-9 was more of a protectant to be used for the long term storage of tools, at least that's how I enterpretted the material. I have used wd-40 to get "clean", any visible rush will likely have to be removed abrasively. Here's the article: http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodnews/may_2006/ask_the_staff_may.html

For my money, I think it's tough to be just about any good ole paste was and some elbow grease.


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## bigkev (Mar 16, 2011)

Can't beat the heat and humidity here in South Carolina. Good ole Johnson's paste wax is the ticket. I do what Robert does and try to hit it about once a month or so. It really does what I need it to do and it is readily available.


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## BlankMan (Mar 21, 2009)

Rockler and Woodcraft both sell TopCote too. When I'm in need some I usually pick it up at Rockler when I have a 20% off coupon. Always keep some on hand, think I have 2 cans at the moment.

I also have and use Top Saver Rust Remover and Lubricant to sometimes get the rust off. It's sold in a kit but now I just buy it by itself. I'll spray it on and put 400 grit on my 5" orbital sander and any rust comes off in no time. Kind of a wet sanding process.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

I don't know anything about Boeshield, but the WD-40 might be the problem. A chemist I used to know said it causes so many problems with rust, ect in machinery they would fire anyone caught using it at the plant where he worked. I use it for lube all the time. The combination of Boeshield over WD-40 might be your trouble. It is definitely not a solvent to remove other substances from metal. It will allow rusting over night. Just thought I would mention that even though you were not depending on it for that purpose.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

I use Kiwi neutral shoe polish. $.99 at the $.99 store. I'm sorry for your frustration. Do you have a dehumidifier in you shop? If not, a couple hundred bucks may save you a couple hundred headaches. A sincere good luck.


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## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

As Blankman just beat me to it: Rockler also sells the TopSaver kit from Emerson that includes both rust remover/lubricant AND the lubricant/wax. I have it and it works good well. I've only had to use it twice.

I also use Mothers California Gold Natural Formula Pure Carnauba Liquid Wax. It has no abrasive polish components, detergents, etc. AND is #1 Brazilian yellow carnauba wax (the hardest natural wax PERIOD) instead of beeswax blends. Johnson's wax is a blend of Carnauba wax, paraffin, and sera microcristallina, with deodorized naptha as the carrier / solubilizer. Nothing at all wrong with that, as its shinier but not as hard / protective as the pure carnauba product.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

You could let mother nature take its course. My 35 yr old saw has a nice patina on the table ;-)) Browning is a preferred method of finishing Kentucky style rifles.


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## TheKingInYellow (Sep 25, 2008)

Lots of advice here thanks, sounds like I just need to get my sealing sorted out, here.

Dehumidification is not an option, this is not an enclosed shop, it's an unheated garage.


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## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

Bertha, I never woulda thunk about Kiwi. lol

Kiwi is Heavy Naptha, Stoddard solvent (an organic solvent that is paraffin-derived) and Benzene. So I won't be using that as war paint anymore !


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

LOL, Grimes. Anyone warpainting with Kiwi neutral has bigger problems to face than solvents


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## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

I tried the T-9 and Boeshield on my old Ridgid TS. NEVER AGAIN. It left streaks and blotches every where and talk about rust, and I live in the Mojave desert where humidity is NOT a problem. lol

I finally had to "pickle" it to get it clean. To pickle the steel or iron, you clean with muritic acid and neutralize immediately with water and baking soda. blow it dry with compressed air, and wax instantly or you will discover REAL rust. lol Only use this as a last resort as it is very aggressive to the smooth cast top. Any exposed ferric metals will have a rust problem if not cared for before you finish. It does not seem to harm the painted surfaces.

Unless you have a car with the old style points in the distributor, toss the WD-40. It is just 75% paint thinner anyway. It also has minimal lubricating properties. WD-40 means Water Dispersant formula 40. I still have a quarter drum of the pure stuff that I drained out of the truck tanks that hauled this to be packaged out of San Diego where it is made. Shaeffer Oil out of ST Louis, Mo. has a product, Penetro 90. Fantastic lube, cutting oil, and rust remover.

After you have removed the crap and rust, J&J paste wax, Butchers Bowling Alley wax, or any of the other waxes work great. Sorry Blankman, I have never tried you method, but I will.

The Boeshield tested my throwing distance for my right arm. If any one would like this T-9 sh….stuff, drop by and have a cupa joe and take it home with you. he he he


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## FatherHooligan (Mar 27, 2008)

I'll echo everyone else's suggesting plain old floor wax. I use it on all my cast iron surfaces after learning about it here and have had no rusting problems and like you KiY I have an unheated/cooled garage in "Sunny?" Brandon so I understand your condensation issures. One thing I did do as kind of a test is liberally coat my jointer tables in T9 late in the winter when I knew I'd not have much time to be in the shop (and if this ever-loving flooding ever goes away perhaps I'll get back there before snow flies). I left it on thick and plan to use mineral spirits to clear it off, just like I used the mineral spirits to clean off that waxy gunk they put on new machines that was on my new General TS. The only use for WD-40 in my books is drying off the chain and gears on my bike (back in the days I still rode it :-(

I found my floor wax at the local Co-op in the cleaning supplies section, but it was difficult to find at other stores.


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## bigkev (Mar 16, 2011)

Hate is such a strong word…


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## TheKingInYellow (Sep 25, 2008)

No, I'm pretty sure I hate it.


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## Howie (May 25, 2010)

I use G-96 gun spray made by Outers. Spray it on, let it set for a while and wipe off the excess. Never had a problem and lasts a long time.
Usually available at BassProshops. Will not harm the wood either.
Much cheaper than T-9 too.


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## Brad_Nailor (Jul 26, 2007)

As far as I know, T-9 isn't supposed to stay on the tool when your using it…it's just to keep rust off them when stored. I use scotch brite style steel wool pads with my ROS and some mineral spirits to get the rust off, then in the winter I just use crinkled up wax paper, but in the summer when its more humid, I put a coat of Renaissance wax on all the steel and cast iron. It works great at keeping the rust off, and the wood slides effortlessly through the saw!


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

I was going to suggest G-96 gun oil too, but it is a little hard to find around here. It will keep rust off guns handled by the grubbiest, salty hands for a loooooong time ;-)) Fantastic stuff.


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## specialj (Jun 15, 2011)

PASTE WAX! i use it on anything cast from my tablesaw, jointer, planer bed, outfeed table on my saws (which is formica).Any body ever use "brasso" to clean rust off of cast? i just purchased a used band saw the table was nasty with rust 20 minutes later looked beautifull.


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## terrilynne (Jun 24, 2010)

I use turtle wax, the spray on type on my scroll saw table and it works great.


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## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

Al, uh… I used the neutral as a foundation so the black wouldn't clog my pores. You knew that ! ;=)


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## mook (Apr 16, 2011)

That man with the G96- will take a medal at 1200 hrs sharp.
Bertha: the Kiwis have advanced some since coming up with that Kiwi shoe polish and I hope you are using the mid tan colour which matches the colour of early rust.
Myself: I use Southern Comfort, undiluted by pollutants such as Watery Discharge #40.
The best antidote for rust: regular use of machine table tops for the purpose of working wood and not storing stuff or polishing with metal polishes etc-wood is far more abrasive.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

Interesting you mention the man who uses G-96 will take a medal. I have boxes full of them, but my favorite is my 1,000 yard black powder bullseye patch from Ottawa Arms Collectors ;-)) Think I can get a multi-million dollar endorsement contract like Tiger did? I won't embarrass the sponsor;-)


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

Several years ago Wood Mag did what looked to be an objective controlled test of quite a few rust prevention products and common household methods…they documented that T-9 was the most effective at preventing rust of all of them.

I use a combination of T-9 and paste wax. I spray a light coat of T-9 on the cast iron, and buff it dry. Then I apply two coats of Johnson's paste wax. Twice a year does a pretty good job, but direct exposure to water or heavy moisture will still result in some rust.


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## botanist (Sep 17, 2008)

My workshop is just in my unheated garage and I've had trouble with rust on my machines as well. I've had great results with very fine steel wool and naval jelly to get off the rust, then using Johnson's Paste Wax to keep it away. I cleaned off the stand for my drill press that way last summer and it still looks great.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

LOL hard with Philip, slathering his tables with syrupy goodness (SoCo). I just like this thread for the "I hate Boeshield" opener. That puts a smile on my face.


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## TheKingInYellow (Sep 25, 2008)

Subtlety was never my strong suit.


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## bubinga (Feb 5, 2011)

I put T 9 on a couple of planes I had fixed up, three weeks later ,some rust spots.
After all that work, then I get new rust, so I do hate T 9 now !


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## ken_c (Sep 28, 2009)

take some trusty old automotive rubbing compound and polish all that rust and t-9 crap off. Then like said a few coats of furniture grade past wax will keep thing all nice and slick as well as help stop the rust. Toss the rest, just use wax. I would also stay away from wd-40 and your tools - wd-40 has silicone in it and that might interfere with the finish process on your projects.


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## TheKingInYellow (Sep 25, 2008)

That's the plan. I have all my stuff now, and I am overhauling the table tonight:

Mineral spirits and shop towels to take off the T-9. AutoSol (automotive rubbing compound) to clear up the rust. Mineral spirits again just to make sure it's thoroughly degreased. Thin layer of TopCote, then two layers of paste wax.

If that doesn't do it, I'll eat the saw.


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## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

FWIW: I am not a WD-40 advocate (fan), but I can say that it does not contain silicone… nor is it fish oil.

It is mineral oil and various alkanes that make it repel water and freeze resistant… then Dimethyl Naphthalene to give it solvent properties, Cyclohexane to give it a higher melting point, and finally carbon dioxide as the propellant.


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## Howie (May 25, 2010)

WOW David: you used words I couldn't even pronounce much less know what they were .

Topa: Before I went to Vietnam, I used G-96 on all my guns(13 to be exact) and when I came home a year later they were just like I had cleaned them that day. The only place I can find it around here (Tampa) is BassProshops.
I used to use the floor wax trick on my table tops but have been using G-96 for a long time.Works good,last a long time.


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## BlankMan (Mar 21, 2009)

David, didn't they used to use benzene or something of the like as the propellant until that car battery explosion? Seem to remember that, guess they saw the light…


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## DrDirt (Feb 26, 2008)

Which G96 product is it that you use - there are several cleaners by G96 and 'Crud buster'
is it this?


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## Howie (May 25, 2010)

The gun treatment. Not the cleaner.


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## bubinga (Feb 5, 2011)

There isn't any BassProshops around me , but, I found G-96 at, Amazon ,and Cabela's


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## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

Like the top post.. paste wax. Works really well.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

G-96 Treatment is the one you want. If it keeps a Stevens Pope Ballard barreled by Harry, himself, in 1903, in pristine condition, it should be good enuf for a saw or jointer top ;-)


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## TheKingInYellow (Sep 25, 2008)

Well, I used what I had today. Clean with mineral spirits, polished with auto polish, hit the tougher spots with this fine rust eraser and then cleaned with mineral spirits again, sprayed with TopCote, buffed, coat of paste wax, buffed, second coat of paste wax, buffed again.

Seems damn slippery although the abrasive pads did leave a little bit of swirling on the surface where I used it. Live and learn.

If this rusts, I'll clean it off again and get some G-96 from Cabelas.


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## mook (Apr 16, 2011)

I forgot to mention in my comment about "Kiwis having advanced some" that the result of that leap forward was lanolin oil, made from squeezed sheep of which there many here. It can be found in the US as CRC makes a version called Lanotec which I use all the time-it doubles as a rust preventer and a friction reducer on my tables, replacing the white wax I used to use. It is a natural product, not messing with finishes and is also very good for the skin-no more cracked skin on fingers due to glue etc.
I only put the G96 on new planes so that customers are suitably seduced by the very pleasant smell it has-plus it does work well.
Unlike WD40, which is definitely not the same stuff we used on oil rigs in the North Sea in the seventies, doesn't even smell the same let alone do any work-hence the name "Watery Discharge 40".


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## BlankMan (Mar 21, 2009)

That's the other thing I like about TopCote, it does make the surface slippery and easier to slide the wood.


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## BlankMan (Mar 21, 2009)

"Watery Discharge 40"? I thought it was Water Displacement 40? As in Water Displacement 40th try? I.E. The 40th formula they tried when concocting the stuff.


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## TheKingInYellow (Sep 25, 2008)

All I know is that I won't use it on my tools again. I found a source for Mineral Spirits (hard to find here) and I'll be using that when I get my Jointer.


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## mook (Apr 16, 2011)

King: beware of mineral spirits. I am certain it will have been found to contain carcinogens right there in the State of California….
""Saliva Causes Cancer, But only if swallowed in small quantities over long periods of time." (George Carlin)
That's why the army came up with "spit and polish" for shining those leathers, otherwise GI's would be destroying government property (themselves). (


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## FatherHooligan (Mar 27, 2008)

KiY you should be able to find mineral spirits at just about any paint store, big box lumberstore, Zellers….I've bought mineral spirits in Wpg many times, it should not be hard to find.


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## bobasaurus (Sep 6, 2009)

I've been using T-9 a bit around the shop, with paste waxing as well. It's a bit too early to tell… hopefully I won't experience too many rusting issues. On the old bandsaw I'm restoring, after scouring and sanding the table surface smooth and cleaning off the debris, I used T9, let it dry overnight, buffed the top, then applied paste wax on top. It's about the same method the wood whisperer recommends in his bandsaw video. We'll see.


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## sandhill (Aug 28, 2007)

I have to re-surface all my cast iron tables 4 times each year and found by letting T-9 lay up over night then waxing with butchers wax helped a lot.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

here is a thread some recommendations


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## TheKingInYellow (Sep 25, 2008)

Since this thread popped back up, here is my current situation.

I've now had my jointer for five weeks or so. Two coats of TopCote and three of paste wax and there is not a spot of rust despite some very hot and humid days.

Next year, climate control in the garage will be a critical step for me, but I'm confident my equipment will survive until then


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## northeaster (Jul 30, 2011)

I have a humid basement (55-60% despite the dehumidifier that I keep running constantly), so am fighting the same battle. I can describe what I have gone through to date, YMMV.

I started on a new saw with Johnson's paste wax alone with seemingly good success. However, after once leaving some sawdust on the table for 3 to 5 days, I had the beginnings of a very light rust problem. WD40 + steel wool got rid of most but the Johnson's by itself (once a week or so) did not seem so effective afterwards.

I then stripped the wax and WD40 from the table using rubbing alcohol, which should be generally good for getting rid of lipids without harming a metal surface. After getting a Boeshield kit (including rust remover) from Woodcraft, I first tried the rust remover (which contains a bit of phosphoric acid, I believe; this was probably overkill). Since not getting rid of a strong oxidizing agent completely would be the kiss of death, I rinsed with at least 4 applications of water and paper towels, then followed that immediately with T9 and a layer of Johnson's.

There was at first the smallest hint of yellowish color over the whole surface (?oxidized wax caused by the acidic rust remover), but I am now doing weekly Johnson's layers and things are fine again.

Bottom line to me is that knotscott's advice seems to make good sense.


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

After reading all the above it appears that part of the problem might be the WD40. even residue seems to cause problems.


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## TheKingInYellow (Sep 25, 2008)

Enitrely possible. I've been using strictly mineral spirits now.


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## sandhill (Aug 28, 2007)

Talk about rust? I had a water line spring a leak today and some water sprayed onto my Table saw and less then 30 min it was rusted up! Florida shows no mercy.


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## TheKingInYellow (Sep 25, 2008)

Ouch! Sorry to hear that sandhill.


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## CAF (Dec 7, 2011)

I've heard too, that WD 40 is a product to stay away from as the net result after it has done its initial task is to attract water. So it needs to be cleaned off very well before applying any protectant as it most likely displaces the protectant. Can't verify this last part but have heard from others and read that, with it's not being an oil based product as its working mechanism, you are still vulnerable to rust and that it may actually play a role in helping facilitaing it to form again.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

Bostik Top Coat is not available in Australia for some unknown reason, hower Top Saver is and it works well.
Cameilla Oil is also good, 
Some INOX MX3 and MX4 will also work. (definately No WD 40 as its silicon based and may effect timber)
www.inoxmx.com/

Regardless the ongoing maintenance on cast surfaces is a must.

30 minutes sandhill think your self blessed 15m with a shower and its all over for me.


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

> Bostik Top Coat is not available in Australia for some unknown reason, hower Top Saver is and it works well.
> Cameilla Oil is also good,
> - robscastle


Are you sure of products name? FWIW, I swear by this stuff…










http://assets.rockler.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/720x720/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/9/7/97594-04-1000.jpg


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

*2011 thread*


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

Exactly Right HorrizontalMike

(and I am not disputing this product as I think I went looking for it before in 2011 as I was impressed with the reviews)

Its GlideCote Table & Tool Surface Sealant

I checked the link to Lee Valley after reading Blankman and ArtisteryinWood post refering to Top Coat.
I will go and do another search and report back to validate if I am dribbling it

Also as I scrolled through the replies I see there is a scientific reply disputing that WD40 has silicon in it from


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

OK the information we have all been waiting for:-

1. GlideCote Table & Tool Surface Sealant was formally AKA Top Cote










Neither product is listed on the Bostik Australia website. (hence they do not sell it)
However if I wanted to I could buy it from Amazon all a bit odd I must say (I didnt check to see if it had a left hand nozzle on it!)

There is also a reference to Bostik 10220 which looks to be the former product.
2. Not sure what happened to the end of the text from my above post, but it should have included "David Grimes post 06-28-2011"

All interesting stuff but my coffee is finished and its time to do something more constructive.


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

> OK the information we have all been waiting for:-
> 1. GlideCote Table & Tool Surface Sealant was formally AKA Top Cote
> 
> 
> ...


I bought a 6-pack of this stuff a ways back and have not looked back. The old Boeshield blade cleaner was toxic and nauseous to use. I STILL have +3/4 of a can sitting on the shelf. Nasty stuff. This is MUCH easier, IMP…


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

Yeah thanks Mike rub it in ! (pun)


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

> Yeah thanks Mike rub it in ! (pun)
> 
> - robscastle


Need 3/4 of a can of XXXXX…"? ;-)


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

Pass!... I am back for more coffee!!


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## jbyrd (Aug 24, 2018)

I have relied on T-9 for about 12 years to keep my cast iron tools rust free and found it to be very effective. If I was going to leave the tools unused for any length of time I didn't buff it off, but I've never had a problem with it. When I lived in Houston I would get rust anytime I touched the saw table with my hand. T-9 was the best thing I found. I figure Boeing knows a thing or two about preventing rust. I noticed my drill press shaft was getting a little rusty so I used the rust free to clean it and sprayed it with T-9 and 6 months later it still looks great.


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## bilyo (May 20, 2015)

All good advice above. I use paste wax and it works great. Another technique you can use in your unheated garage is to keep the air moving with a small fan. A little 10" or so table fan works great. Even better if it oscillates. Keep it running all the time; especially during the early morning hours when the humid air condenses on the cold tools. The moving air will help prevent the condensation.


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## syenefarmer (Dec 19, 2009)

Another vote here for the Bostik TopCote. I've used it for years without a single rusting issue. However, I primarily use it for the rust protection only. I've fount the by applying a coating of the Bostik for rust protection followed by a coating or two of Johnson's Paste Wax for it's slipperiness works the best for me.


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