# Question about carving signs with a router...



## SuperCubber

Hello guys/gals,

I'm considering trying to rout a sign as part of a Chistmas gift. I have never done any precision routing of the sort. Am I crazy to think I can get a passable result by free-hand routing with a trim router? Also, if I'm not dreaming, any recommendations/advice would be much appreciated!

Thanks,
Joe


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## Flipper01

Taint the easiest thing to do, especially right at first. I've tried it a few times and messed some perfectly good wood. Others may have had some success though/


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## runswithscissors

What little free hand routing I have done was a catastrophe. You have to constantly fight the side thrust of the bit, and the direction of the thrust changes as you change directions with the router and the grain changes. I think a template is necessary.

There are probably people who know how to do this, however, and I yield to their superior experience and knowledge.


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## SuperCubber

Alright, I appreciate the input. That's probably enough to scare me off. Thanks!

Joe


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## kb7fxj

Take a look here.

http://www.davesigns.com/index.htm http://www.youtube.com/user/oldave100


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## pattyschenewerk

I have made several signs using a router. I use a stencils and draw it on the board then I use a v groove bit and route it. Then I use stencil paint and spray the letters or design. Don't worry about perfection here because then you sand your sign and any over spray sands right off. Finally I finish sign with a sealer. I hope this helps


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## timbertailor

The greatest challenge to sign making is remembering which direction the bit is traveling in and how to execute the cut while trying to retain the correct cutting direction.

It takes a little planning and I suggest an index card with your plan of attack laid out.

This will go a long way in avoiding direction changes that can lead to a loss of control of the router bit.


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## DanKrager

At one time or another almost all the golf courses in IL had my wooden routed signs. Here are a couple pointers to make free hand work look professional.
1. Using a pencil, lay out your letters fully kerned. Most sign templates won't allow for that. You want the visual space between letters to look equal. There really is no formula that works for all letter combinations, but if you start by marking three spaces for every letter and use two for the actual letter, you'll have a foundation. Letters like "i" and "l" take only one space and maybe not all of that. "m", "w" are the widest and each should consume most of the three spaces. Use a big eraser and adjust, adjust, adjust. "L" "E" "S" "F" "N" are narrow letters, not taking up the full two. A "V" next to an "A", and the like, require more attention. If you can print the right size with a computer, you'll quickly approach properly kerned letter spacing. 
2. Use a try square as a guide for vertical letter strokes to be sure they are straight, cutting them all before moving on.
3. Use a straight edge guide for horizontal strokes to be sure they are uniform. Again do all the letters where required with the same setting. The middle strokes of "E", "B", "P" etc are slightly above center, say the width of your cutter stroke.
4. Finally, carefully freehand in the curves.
5. Use a 1/4" V bit about 1/4" deep to form the letters. 60 or 90° doesn't matter. If you are doing letters whose strokes are broader than the groove so formed, then just outline the letters and come back to clear the waste in the broad strokes, cleaning up with a narrow chisel. This size bit doesn't "draw hard" and is pretty easy to control at that depth.
6. Don't try to paint letters carved in porous woods. They don't look clean because of the ?bleeding" which sealer doesn't help.
Eventually, I learned to hand carve the letters pretty quickly. You can do things that just can't be done with a router in hand or CNC for that matter.
Either way, don't back out because "it's too hard". It isn't, even if you ruin a little bit of practice wood! 
I had a friend who was totally blind, but that didn't stop him from safely ripping thin stock on a full sized table saw….!!! You don't get sympathy from me if you say you can't do it!
DanK


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## woodworkerforchrist

I started carving signs with a router in May and I love it! I learned pretty fast and they turn out great. Super profit margin. I sell them between $50-$100. I learned the "Rhoten' way from Eric and Dave Rhotens YouTube channel. I use a Rigid palm router with a custom base with handles. A narrow profile bit, 60 degree, 90 degree, and chamfer, that's it! No cnc or plunge or templates, jobs, or guides. It's all done by hand with the router. It's actually easy and enjoyable. I use cedar for almost all signs, but other woods are nice too. I trace type out on my computer whatever I want, print clip art from google, then trace on wood, then carve, then spray black primer, then sand off(black stays in carving but face is sanded to wood), then spray or brush on Helmsman spar varnish, attach hooks on top to hang, they turn out great! It takes me about 1-2 hours start to finish depending on size. I sell some and give alot as gifts. Beware its addicting


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## woodworkerforchrist




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## MyChipCarving

> Alright, I appreciate the input. That s probably enough to scare me off. Thanks!
> 
> Joe
> 
> - SuperCubber


Have no fear, Joe! Practice on scrap wood first. Controlling the router can be done with practice. Go slow and keep your wrists on the wood for more control. Going slow may cause burning but it's not a problem because the burn is inside the design / lettering. I remember routing a sign many years ago and it turned out very well. 
Give it a go, even now that Christmas has past.


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## MyChipCarving

> Alright, I appreciate the input. That s probably enough to scare me off. Thanks!
> 
> Joe
> 
> - SuperCubber


Have no fear, Joe! Practice on scrap wood first. Controlling the router can be done with practice. Go slow and keep your wrists on the wood for more control. Going slow may cause burning but it's not a problem because the burn is inside the design / lettering. I remember routing a sign many years ago and it turned out very well. 
Give it a go, even now that Christmas has past.



> - woodworkerforchrist


Great sign, Marty!! Love it!


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## SuperCubber

Wow, hard to believe this question was 4 years ago!

Thanks for all the encouragement and advice!

I actually ended up routing an inlay in a project that year and it turned out great! I never did get around to routing a sign, but I have a renewed interest now.


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## kelvancra

A few of my free hand attempts (so, yes, you can):


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## CalicoWoodSigns

We made a short video of rich carving and finishing the sign from start to finish. It's only a few minutes long and is a good start. Best of luck. Click Here We made this video like 20 years ago. Im sorry its so fast I was young and liked to show off. You can still pick up some good points though.
If anyone has any sign routing questions happy to help

Rich Johnson
CalicoWoodSigns.com
[email protected]


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## DevinT

I free-hand routed signs back in the 90's (before the Internet). Stencils, patience, knowledge, preparation, and having someone watch over you the first few times helps.

*EDIT:* ... and a good plunge router.


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## GR8HUNTER

you can but you should lay it out first before carving very easy to control :<)))))))

https://www.lumberjocks.com/projects/416305


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## Foghorn

Necro thread resurrected by a first time poster.


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