# GRR-Ripper Versus the Saw Stop Table Saw When It Comes To Safety.



## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

An odd question but I'd like to know if I'm in the ballpark?

I just purchased the Gripper(TM) 200 Advanced System a week or two ago and have yet to use it so after reading the comments and the reviews on the safety factor this jig provides can I assume that it's a substitute with a much lower cost over purchasing the saw stop table saw? One of my main objectives was safety and avoiding the expense of a new saw stop table saw, I so happen to use very expensive saw blades over the $130.00 mark and just can't fathom them being destroyed in a block of metal or aluminum.

My main focus is small box building so I'm never really cutting anything of large.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lDUg_lfculQ#t=86


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

This will be an interesting topic. I have been considering the same thing.


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## gtbuzz (Sep 19, 2011)

Full disclosure - I'm a SawStop owner… (and a multiple-Gripper owner)

Personally, I don't see how a Gripper is any more of a substitute for blade breaking technology (be with what SS uses or what someone else may potentially come out with) that a push stick or a cross-cut sled. They all add an additional layer of safety, but they do different things in different ways. If you're using a SawStop with a Gripper it stands to reason that because you're using two different safety devices than if you used a Gripper in a traditional table saw. The same logic would apply to using a Gripper on a saw with a riving knife than a saw without the riving knife. Both do different things in different ways, but using the Gripper with riving knife would lower the chances (not eliminate mind you) the chances for injury than just the Gripper alone.

Personally, I don't at all consider the SawStop technology to be an essential safety device, but just an additional layer of protection. I always approach my cuts as if I didn't have it. Some sort of push stick, however, I do consider to be a requirement.

As far as buying your nice blade into a cartridge, I'm certainly in the same boat. I don't want to lose my blade to a cartridge, but if the cartridge were to fire, I'd much rather have lessened the risk of losing my finger to the blade in exchange for the losing the blade to the cartridge. A few things to keep in mind though, the Gripper does have some metallic parts in it, but in order for something to set off the cartridge in the SS, it's got to sense a difference in capacitance, which wouldn't happen unless you're directly touching the metallic part you're cutting through. By holding the Gripper's plastic handle, it can't sense that.

I'm sure this will end up being a contentious subject, but my opinion is that the SawStop technology is purely a nice-to-have, but all things being equal, I'd much rather have it than not have it. Regardless of what tablesaw you get, I wholeheartedly recommend a Gripper (or two if you're going to be doing ripping). I'd make my SawStop decision completely independent of that if I were you.


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## wbrisett (Dec 21, 2011)

I won't go into the is it a replacement, because they aren't really the same thing are they?  I mean, the Gripper isn't going to stop my finger from getting sliced off if I do something foolish. However, I've been using the Gripper system from close to 8 or 9 years now. I find they do exactly what they promise. The gripper system enables you to work *much* safer because you can control both parts of the wood (if needed), you have a way to stabilize via the 'leg' a way to control the height of the gripper which I find invaluable.


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## Sodabowski (Aug 23, 2010)

I'm a huge fan of the Gripper too, I'll get one when I get a new TS (toasted the motor on the current one, crap entry level contractor saw). I see it as THE safety device, I really don't get the point of that stupid a$$ sawstop bizness, if not to bring money to some dude that invented it and that paid the govt to make it a requirement. I really hate that kind of behavior.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

I like the Gripper quite a bit, but I have on occasion sliced it a bit with the blade by not positioning it properly. I can envision a situation where the Gripper gets launched if I really goofed things up, which could result in your hand still be being thrown into the blade. I think the Gripper offers improved safety over a push stick for sure, but doesn't lessen the severity of an injury in the event things got seriously out of control.


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## socrbent (Mar 9, 2012)

Blackie, I also have a Saw Stop and agree with gtbuzz that these two items are separate parts of addressing table saw safety. Re saw blade - in early December I caused the safety mech to fire by foolishly trying to brush saw dust away after a cut, brushing the side of my right hand little finger on the blade. Result was a tiny nick that did not bleed.








Saw Stop replaced the cartridge for free. The Forest Woodworker II blade was slightly embedded in the cartridge and came free with no apparent damage.








Shipped blade to Forest. They examined, realigned blade and resharpened for about $55. Having used the blade for about 3 years the resharpening was probably due anyway. Got blade back and it works like a charm. So in my case the blade was not destroyed. My guess is quality blades may fair better when the saw fires. At least it did so in my single case. 
When I bought the saw the safety feature was important, Since then the quality of the SS saw has been much appreciated.
I'd would like to hear from those with Grippers as to when this device is useful and how they feel about the additional safety.


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

The two things are not really comparable. The Gripper is not going to stop a saw blade from cutting you, and even w/ a Sawstop table saw you are going to need push blocks of some kind. How about a Sawstop and the Gripper together?

My main focus is small box building so I'm never really cutting anything of large

I think that cutting small parts is the most dangerous operation on a table saw. The likely hood of kickback is far greater w/ small parts.


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## GregD (Oct 24, 2009)

+1 on what wbrisett said.

I have a Saw Stop PCS. I use the blade guard whenever possible. Even so I use Grripers or push blocks for almost all rip cuts. With a lubricated table top I get better control and better cuts with good push blocks AND they provide a significant additional safety factor. Push sticks kinda scare me - no control over the far side of the work piece.

Buy two Grrippers. Also get a pair of Bench Dog push blocks; they are even grippier and work better for larger pieces. Use a saw with a blade guard and riving knife that work well enough so it is practical to use them - and then use them. Clean and lubricate the top. Use an outfeed table so work slides easily through and clear of the blade with no effort from you needed to keep it from falling on the floor.


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## socrbent (Mar 9, 2012)

Greg, why do you advocate 2 grippers?


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## gtbuzz (Sep 19, 2011)

> Greg, why do you advocate 2 grippers?
> 
> - socrbent


For me, the reason is that for longer stock, you can use them in-line with each other. When the leading Gripper passes by the blade, you can pull it away and move it to the back of the stock while the second Gripper can either just hold the stock or continue feeding. If you only had a single Gripper, you'd have to stop feeding the stock and reposition it back in front of the blade to resume feeding. This could potentially help with burning by minimizing the amount of time the stock is stationary in front of the blade, but more importantly, you've always got control of the workpiece.


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## GregD (Oct 24, 2009)

what gtbuzz said


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

I know how the saw stop works now! Thanks. What is the gripping surface of a gripper made of?


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## intelligen (Dec 28, 2009)

SawStop's brake system is a failsafe, not an excuse to eschew safe practices and other safety devices.

I have a GRR-Ripper and a SawStop, and I consider the GRR-Ripper (or any push block/shoe/stick) as part of my first line of defense. I'd rather chew up a piece of wood or plastic (even a $70 one) than have to repair or replace a $100 saw blade or face the 1 in a million chance that the brake system will fail.

That said, if you're just building boxes, there are jigs, fixtures, and sleds that can provide more safety than a GRR-Ripper in some cases.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

It would be hard to improve on gtbuzz said….I can only suggest reading it twice. You really are looking at incomparable points (as some many have pointed out).


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## JKMDETAIL (Nov 13, 2013)

I do not have either. Love the concept behind both and hope to progress to both. I do agree completely with Rob. I am concerned reading some of the comments over the internet that some folk feel like a teenager (invincible). It is just another tool, treat it with respect, it can hurt you.


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## KDO (Oct 26, 2010)

Nothing to add, but Just to emphasize what Rob said, building small things with a TS is dangerous. Get/make a good cross-cut sled and some good jigs that are designed for cutting small pieces. A good Cross-cut sled is worth every penny and will become a have-to-have tool. There are plenty of good Cross-cut sleds shown on LJ.


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## retfr8flyr (Oct 30, 2013)

I love my pair of Grr-Ripper's and use them almost all the time, that being said, they are not a substitute for the Saw Stop blade tech. As others have said for small piece work a good crosscut sled is a must, along with the Grr-Rippers. If I could afford a Saw Stop I would have one also but the Grr-Rippers will have to do for me.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

One analogy I can think of is to view the GRR-Ripper as a seat belt in a car and the Saw Stop as an airbag. The GRR-Ripper functions passively by keeping your hand farther from the blade, but using it correctly is mandatory to achieve maximum protection. Just like a seat belt has to be over your shoulder and not behind for maximum protection. The Saw Stop functions actively and has to be prompted to fire the brake cartridge after something bad has happened, much the same way an airbag has to be prompted to fire after something bad has happened.


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## Kazooman (Jan 20, 2013)

I have a SawStop and a lot of push sticks, sleds and jigs. I have considered getting a GRR-Ripper and having watched their video, I think I will do so soon.

One issue for me is not being able to use the blade guard / sawdust extraction when you are using the GRR-Ripper. The SawStop guard works very well and really reduces the amount of sawdust that comes off the top of the blade. It has two sets of anti-kickback pawls for different types of stock.

A question for the GRR-Ripper users. I have wondered about how well it holds the work against the fence. It seems like the body of the unit could be jammed against the fence even if the workpiece is not. I guess I will need to take a closer look at just how it is made.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

For the price of a Sawstop you could buy a nice bandsaw
for ripping thin stock and a thickness sander for removing
marks, or a band saw and some fine hand planes.

I have some Grrippers and I never use them because I
seldom make cuts where they would be used on a 
table saw. I use a band saw.


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## Woodbum (Jan 3, 2010)

I like the poster that called it "blade BREAKING technology. Maybe not what he meant, but he was right anyway. I do not have a SS, and do have a Grrripper. I would never dream of thinking of this great push block system as a substitute for a SS. But… I would never think of a SS as relieving me of ANY personal safety awareness, no matter how good the technology. You can still get injured by a SS if you are careless, and allow yourself to be lulled into a false sense of security. For a first generation TS safety system the SS technology is pretty ingenious. It is a good deal for those that want it and are willing to pay a significant premium to get it. I however, right or wrong; don't and won't. I suffer from cranial/anal inversion as much as the next guy, but focus more when using any of my shop tools that can and will injure. I have been lucky with just some bruised ribs and a small arm cut from kickback. But then again, a SS will not prevent kickback. I have been hurt worse with totally non technical blunt instruments.. a framing hammer and a roofing hatchet, than by any power shop tools. AMEN


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

I've heard mention of some telling the blade was easy to remove from the brake cartridge with minimal if any damage and other showing the two welded together. I would be interested to know what percentage of the blades are still reusable after having the cartridge fired into them at speed.


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## GregD (Oct 24, 2009)

> I have a SawStop and a lot of push sticks, sleds and jigs. I have considered getting a GRR-Ripper and having watched their video, I think I will do so soon.
> 
> One issue for me is not being able to use the blade guard / sawdust extraction when you are using the GRR-Ripper. The SawStop guard works very well and really reduces the amount of sawdust that comes off the top of the blade. It has two sets of anti-kickback pawls for different types of stock.
> 
> ...


I am also a fan of the Saw Stop blade guard because of how well it extracts dust, how easy it is to install/remove, and the extra protection it provides in keeping my hands away from the blade. I do have to give that and go with the riving knife if the push block won't clear between the blade guard and the rip fence.

When I place a Grripper on the work I place it 1/2" or so away from the fence, apply light to moderate downward pressure as I drag it over to contact the fence. With only a little practice this can be done while also slowly feeding the work into the saw. I believe that this technique keeps the work against the fence and also aligns the side of the Grripper with the edge of the work. It isn't critical to get the Grripper right up to the fence unless that is necessary for its feet to clear the blade.

However, this technique is very helpful at the router table when machining the entire edge of the work, such as a full bevel or a lock miter. I set the outfeed half of my split fence above the bit and up against the infeed half. The Grripper against the outfeed side of the fence keeps the work properly aligned. But in fact any push block with a straight side will work. When running a board vertically past a lock miter I run the side of the push block against the table to maintain the correct vertical position on the outfeed side of the bit.


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## Kazooman (Jan 20, 2013)

Greg:

Thanks for the information on using the GRR-Ripper. From what they say about the "stickiness" of their gripping material I wasn't certain you could drag it a bit sideways. I think that holding the work tightly to the fence is critical and I wasn't certain just how well this device could do it. Your technique makes good sense.

I guess I need to buy a pair and give them a try.

I agree with you on the only problem with the SawStop blade guard is when you are ripping off a narrow piece and the push stick is too wide to fit between the guard and fence. I have several push sticks made from 1/8" stock for just that reason, but there are still times that you have to go without the guard.


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

I have both the SawStop and Grr-Rippers. As others have mentioned, one is not a substitute for the other and no substitute for good practices.

I like the Grr-Rippers because they make it easier on my old hands and they help hold smaller pieces. I have two of them and that is useful at times for pushing longer but narrow pieces through the saw.

I have set off the brake on my SawStop because of stupidity when I caught the edge of an aluminum miter gauge. It certainly buried the blade in the aluminum block. I could have pulled the blade out had it looked at but since it was a Freud rip blade did not feel that it was economically reasonable. If I had a Forrest blade in the saw, I would have sent it back to Forrest. I would not just pull a blade out, visually inspect it and then re-use it. It would be very possible to have a carbide tooth come flying out like a bullet.


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

i think that a person can easily use a regular table saw , using all the safety methods that are available and products like this without hurting themselves, there have been accidents with table saws that were the users fault, and if they're honest they will admit they did something they should not have done, i know some folks who have done this, and they will admit it was their fault, no need to buy a sawstop, sure its a safety that is added to your saw, but i bet it just gives the user an added excuse to do things that are just wrong, i've used my delta table saw without a blade guard for close to 20 years, and i have not had an accident , just being safe and doing things that add safety to your work will do the job, i would easily buy the gripper before a very expensive saw, they work, sure everyone can come up as to why for the saw and why for the gripper, but if everyone would be honest, you can use a regular saw and not hurt yourself…my opinion, and i respect others thoughts also, but i really do think you can use a table saw safely without having to buy a sawstop.


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## gtbuzz (Sep 19, 2011)

> i think that a person can easily use a regular table saw , using all the safety methods that are available and products like this without hurting themselves, there have been accidents with table saws that were the users fault, and if they re honest they will admit they did something they should not have done, i know some folks who have done this, and they will admit it was their fault, no need to buy a sawstop, sure its a safety that is added to your saw, but i bet it just gives the user an added excuse to do things that are just wrong, i ve used my delta table saw without a blade guard for close to 20 years, and i have not had an accident , just being safe and doing things that add safety to your work will do the job, i would easily buy the gripper before a very expensive saw, they work, sure everyone can come up as to why for the saw and why for the gripper, but if everyone would be honest, you can use a regular saw and not hurt yourself…my opinion, and i respect others thoughts also, but i really do think you can use a table saw safely without having to buy a sawstop.
> 
> - grizzman


I couldn't agree more with the majority of this. Table saws are perfectly safe without the brake technology and you could go your entire life without incident if you're smart and have no brain farts. Before you spend any money on a SS, you need to have already put money (or be willing to also put money) into the basic safety devices and having a SS is by no means an excuse to go without.

The one thing I don't think I quite agree with is where you say that "i bet it just gives the user an added excuse to do things that are just wrong." Obviously my personal experiences are no more definitive than your assumption, but for me, under no circumstances do I ever do anything that I would not do on a regular table saw simply because the braking technology is there. I would like to believe the majority of SS owners are in the same boat but I really have no data to back that up either; it's just one of those things that seems like common sense to me. I'm sure those types of people are out there though, but even if they're there en masse, are I don't think it's a reason to talk yourself out of one. How each person approaches tablesaw safety is purely up to them.

As I said, all things being equal, I don't see any reason not to get the SS (obviously money not being a factor). I simply can't buy into the argument that if you follow the same standard operating procedures on any other saw, that the SS less safe. That's also not to say that you can't have a long and happy 10-digit life with any other table saw on the market either. If you're going into this thinking you can buy a SS and do stupid stuff… well then you should just sell all your tools and sit on your hands.

I kind of have to wonder if the Europeans with their fancy sliders are just watching these types of discussions we have and just laughing at our ignorance 



> I like the poster that called it "blade BREAKING technology. Maybe not what he meant, ...
> - Woodbum


Total typo… after re-reading my original post, it was chock full of them actually. Probably why I shouldn't post on my phone.


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

I have a SawStop and do not use it as an excuse to do unsafe things. The truth is that there are around 38,000 accidents a year that require emergency room visits. Half of these happened without any guards. If you are one who has all the guards in place you are much safer. A Sawstop adds a layer of safety if you want it.

If you do not need any extra safety, you do not need a Sawstop and probably do not need any guards.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

A lot of great points made and so I'll move the Gripper out of the ballpark, that being said, I do understand the reasoning behind both now and the roll they both play but… life is a gamble such as using a table saw, I'm willing to take that gamble for the time being who knows what the future holds for me, I do know that there are many that have used a standard table saw for their whole life without incident and I also personally know One person in general that has lost a thumb and part of a finger on one, I also have in my inventory my own made pushing systems that both keep my hands clearly away and high above the blade. To add I do use the up most caution and safety measures when using the tablesaw, just like I do when I'm out on the road riding my Harley.

*gtbuzz*, you made great points thanks!

*socrbent* You mention that you send your blade back to Forrest in which they were able to realign, I'd question if each incident is different, as I have a local shop that sends mine off to be sharpened and he told me that all the blades he's come across that were involved in the sawstop were not able to be sharpened, I too use forrest blades.

*Loren*, I do so happen to have the GO555P Bandsaw with riser.

*GregD* Thanks for your input on using the Gripper.


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## bonesbr549 (Jan 1, 2010)

They are both great and not mutually exclusive. I had the Gripr's first. I have two of them, and they are great. I can feed stock through what ever tool i have and keep even down control on both sides of blades. I also updated to the ICS last Jan. I still use my Grippr's for all tools. They are fantastic!


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## Joel_B (Aug 14, 2014)

I am more afraid of kick back and the blade throwing something at me than my fingers getting hit by the blade, its happened a few times already and now I am more careful because of it. I think you learn from accidents like we learn from mistakes. Hopefully the accidents are not serious. I am a cyclist and I have had some serious crashes on my bike which did cause temporary injury but I think now I am more careful and less likely to have another crash, but there is always the danger of a car hitting and killing me of which I may have little control over. In both cases being focused on what you are doing and being aware of your surroundings helps. I don't have a Grippr but have considering getting one, reading this just makes it a little more urgent.


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## ColonelTravis (Mar 19, 2013)

> The one thing I don t think I quite agree with is where you say that "i bet it just gives the user an added excuse to do things that are just wrong." Obviously my personal experiences are no more definitive than your assumption, but for me, under no circumstances do I ever do anything that I would not do on a regular table saw simply because the braking technology is there.
> 
> - gtbuzz


Agree. Every time I use my SS I pretend it's not a SS.


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## Lenny (Sep 28, 2008)

I'd like to add something I THINK hasn't been covered. One of the primary purposes of the Gripper is to push the wood on BOTH sides of the blade through the cut. Why is this so important? To avoid kickback. I could be ripping a board on a Sawstop and flesh detection technology will have nothing to do with the danger of kickback! So yeah, I own a Sawstop but I still use the Gripper.


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## DanielP (Mar 21, 2013)

A new topic on why someone would use a 130.00 dollar blade over less expensive blades would be enlightening.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

Daniel, I use nothing but Forrest blades, pictorially the Forrest WW10401125 Woodworker II Grind Saw Blade 10" x #1 for my spline cuts.


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## Boxguy (Mar 11, 2012)

*Blackie*, Saw Stops are expensive. Forrest Blades are expensive.

*What is having all ten fingers worth to you?*

Buy the Saw Stop.


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## JM13644 (Jan 6, 2015)

> A new topic on why someone would use a 130.00 dollar blade over less expensive blades would be enlightening.
> 
> - DanielP


I have a few Forrest blades and a few Diablo blades, i really try to buy Forrest if I can, the longevity and craftsmanship I feel is worth the added expense.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

it would be like comparing an air bag in a car to a safety belt. they do not cancel each other out but rather add layers of protection. I would go even further by adding ear protection & full plastic face shield!


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## Tooch (Apr 6, 2013)

> I have set off the brake on my SawStop because of stupidity when I caught the edge of an aluminum miter gauge. It certainly buried the blade in the aluminum block. I could have pulled the blade out had it looked at but since it was a Freud rip blade did not feel that it was economically reasonable. If I had a Forrest blade in the saw, I would have sent it back to Forrest. I would not just pull a blade out, visually inspect it and then re-use it. It would be very possible to have a carbide tooth come flying out like a bullet.
> 
> - Redoak49


We might be related because I've done the exact same thing…. Forget to move my zero clearance miter gauge when making a Bevel cut, and set off the break-









I took the insert out to examine what had happened, and then set it up again to take the picture. Notice how it didnt' even make it through the board- Yikes!


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## Tooch (Apr 6, 2013)

BTW- if you trip the brake due to an accidental touch of the finger/hand, SawStop will replace it for free.

Lastly, The one student I had who tripped the brake (in 5 years of having the machine at our H.S.) still required 6 stitches in his finger. I agree- Its not a replacement for proper technique, and its not going to eliminate accidents, but when (not "if") accidents happen at least a SawStop limits the severity of the accident.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

Provided it involves flesh and blade contact only, does nothing to limit the severity of the accident if it's kickback related.


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

> *Blackie*, Saw Stops are expensive. Forrest Blades are expensive.
> *What is having all ten fingers worth to you?*
> Buy the Saw Stop.
> - Boxguy


QUESTION:
Just WHO says that everyone NOT owning a SawStop will lose fingers? WHO SAYS THAT?
It is my opinion that that is bull********************.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

For cutting narrow strips on the table saw the Grippers
do work. I munched the side of one of mine (a $15
part) and after that lost enthusiasm for using them 
when I asked the inventor at a show if I could get the
greed pad and he said I could not and would have to
replace the whole side.

In cutting narrow strips what can happen is sort of
like kickback but actually is often something like "slide
back" where the stick moves backwards towards the
operator. It's easy to stand over out of the way of
course but the part can pick up unwanted saw marks.

Slide-back doesn't happen when using a short fence
that ends at the front of the blade. The narrow part
sits on the table adjacent to the blade. It can actually
pick up some blade marks in this position as well. Tools
like the Grippers allow the part to be pushed completely
clear of the blade… and with a fence that doesn't retract
perhaps this is the best way to go about it. Unfortunately,
the blade guard must be removed so it's sort of trading 
one safety feature (which many woodworker malign, but 
not me) for another.


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## woodchuckerNJ (Dec 4, 2013)

I have a gripper. Its great. I still want a saw stop.
An error is an error. I have a contactor saw with a forrest wwii blade, the saw stop would be a step up.

It's also cheap insurance should I get stupid. Getting older I worry that I might have a lapse in sensibility.

Last year I had an offcut drop to the floor, I rolled my ankle when I stepped on it later while roughing stock, and wound up close to the blade when I went to put my hand down to steady myself. So even generally safe can still be not safe enough.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Interesting thoughts from everyone. Safety in the shop or anywhere is a must for us all, that's for sure. I like the idea of the saw stop technology, but, I just can't get past the out of pocket cost. My thoughts, and this is just my opinion, the technology of saw stop might incline someone to get to "laxed" at or around your equipment, knowing, in the back-burner of your mind, that if your finger goes into the blade, you won't get hurt. I don't ever want to let my guard down, but, we all do at one time or another. I just ask this of everyone, and I say it a lot on here, and that is: "Work/Play safe. Keep makin dust". IMO: I think the cost of the Gripper could be much less than what is also.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

> My thoughts, and this is just my opinion, the technology of saw stop might incline someone to get to "laxed" at or around your equipment, knowing, in the back-burner of your mind, that if your finger goes into the blade, you won t get hurt. I don t ever want to let my guard down, but, we all do at one time or another.
> 
> - Roger


Roger this very same issue has been brought up by others in this thread and was defended by those that own Saw Stops in that they never let their guard down but no one can predict what someone else is going to do nor how they are going to act and I tend to agree with you on this matter, we are all human and we all make mistakes whether we have standard or saw stop tablesaws.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Amen to that Randy. One thing for certain, we can't and will never know when anything will happen.


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## OggieOglethorpe (Aug 15, 2012)

I think Grripppers are a silly waste of money. To me, a push device should be cheap and disposable. If the machine cuts into the push device, so be it. I don't want to be second guessing my cut, or worse, having even a fleeting thought of backing out of it, because I'm worried about hurting my expensive store-bought push blocks,

I use disposable MDF and scrap birch plywood push blocks that are quickly modified to work best for the job at hand. They're basically rectangular blocks with a tooth left at the bottom, like an "L" with fat long side and small short leg. The width of the block is tall enough to keep my hand far from the blade, and the long edge of the notch rides against the face of the stock.

When cutting narrow strips, I simply let the blade cut right through the tooth, which continues to push on both sides of the blade, right through the cut. Steve Latta uses a similar technique in his Shop Made Bandings DVD. When the tooth is worn or iffy, cut a new notch in the bottom of the block, or toss it and grab another.

As for SawStop, I used several examples in schools and pro shops, and was so impressed, I bought my own ICS.

I sold my really nice, 12 year old 3HP cabinet saw, and never looked back. There's a lot more to the saw to like than the brake, like excellent dust collection, doors on both sides of the cabinet, multiple power switches make it easy to depower for blade changes, a well thought out riving knife that can nearly always stay on the saw.

In three years, I've never fired my brake, but I use MDF backing boards and wood sleds… ;^)


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## DrDirt (Feb 26, 2008)

> My thoughts, and this is just my opinion, the technology of saw stop might incline someone to get to "laxed" at or around your equipment, knowing, in the back-burner of your mind, that if your finger goes into the blade, you won t get hurt.
> 
> - Roger


I hear this argument made - but am in the camp that doesn't believe it.

Just as i don't think people drive worse BECAUSE the car has an airbag.

But this may also be an 'experienced' versus 'inexperienced' worker issue - - that those that have seen/experienced severe kickback or other incidents around the table saw, never let our guard down whether the saw is Black Yellow, Green or Gray.

A new High school student may just be more 'naturally careless/invincible' so that is a bigger reason to have a Sawstop in the high school. Teenagers are reckless.

But I am not going to start holding down boards with the palm of my hand going over the blade because there is a brake technology in there.


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## soob (Feb 3, 2015)

Maybe this has been answered before, but what happens when you jam the hot dog into the blade like an accident instead of nudging it in at a snail's pace?


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## Dan658 (Dec 3, 2014)

> I like the Gripper quite a bit, but I have on occasion sliced it a bit with the blade by not positioning it properly. I can envision a situation where the Gripper gets launched if I really goofed things up, which could result in your hand still be being thrown into the blade. I think the Gripper offers improved safety over a push stick for sure, but doesn t lessen the severity of an injury in the event things got seriously out of control.
> 
> - knotscott


+1. It's a great device when used properly, but it's not human proof.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

I have neither the gripper nor the SS, but would be glad to have both.

One thing that concerns me with the SS is that it is just one of the several machines and tools I have in the shop. It would be nice to expand that technology to other machines. It would seem possible to have a router/shaper (not a freehand router) with brake technology. Bandsaw has too much moving mass - so I think would not work. Jointers again may have too much rotating mass - but perhaps something could be done.

I don't even have a riving knife, though I should.

-Paul


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