# shop upgrades



## Julian (Sep 30, 2008)

*6" bandsaw riser block kit*

After months of waiting, I finally pulled the trigger and bought the grizzly model h3051 extension block kit for my rigid bs1400 bandsaw. The instructions were easy to follow, and there were no surprises with the conversion. Let me first say that the reviews were correct in stating that the supplied blade is garbage. I ordered a few different 105" olson allpro blades and the 5/8" 3tpi blade slices through 10"oak like butter. I was concerned that the 3/4 hp motor would be underpowered for resawing. Well it resaws just fine, but the feed rates have to be slower. I would like to upgrade to a 1 1/2, or 2 hp motor in the future, but for now I am content with the performance.

All in all the cost of the riser block kit was WELL worth the money. I now have the luxury of being able to bookmatch panels for doors, and tops.


----------



## Dusty56 (Apr 20, 2008)

Julian said:


> *6" bandsaw riser block kit*
> 
> After months of waiting, I finally pulled the trigger and bought the grizzly model h3051 extension block kit for my rigid bs1400 bandsaw. The instructions were easy to follow, and there were no surprises with the conversion. Let me first say that the reviews were correct in stating that the supplied blade is garbage. I ordered a few different 105" olson allpro blades and the 5/8" 3tpi blade slices through 10"oak like butter. I was concerned that the 3/4 hp motor would be underpowered for resawing. Well it resaws just fine, but the feed rates have to be slower. I would like to upgrade to a 1 1/2, or 2 hp motor in the future, but for now I am content with the performance.
> 
> All in all the cost of the riser block kit was WELL worth the money. I now have the luxury of being able to bookmatch panels for doors, and tops.


" I was concerned that the 3/4 hp motor would be underpowered for resawing. Well it resaws just fine, but the feed rates have to be slow. " 
DOH !! LOL
I put the riser block on my JET and I love it . I went with the Timberwolf blade 5 years ago and it still cuts like new .


----------



## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

Julian said:


> *6" bandsaw riser block kit*
> 
> After months of waiting, I finally pulled the trigger and bought the grizzly model h3051 extension block kit for my rigid bs1400 bandsaw. The instructions were easy to follow, and there were no surprises with the conversion. Let me first say that the reviews were correct in stating that the supplied blade is garbage. I ordered a few different 105" olson allpro blades and the 5/8" 3tpi blade slices through 10"oak like butter. I was concerned that the 3/4 hp motor would be underpowered for resawing. Well it resaws just fine, but the feed rates have to be slower. I would like to upgrade to a 1 1/2, or 2 hp motor in the future, but for now I am content with the performance.
> 
> All in all the cost of the riser block kit was WELL worth the money. I now have the luxury of being able to bookmatch panels for doors, and tops.


yep i have a riser block on my delta and it is nice! I have cut up to 8" before. i am looking into a timberwolf blade too. but i have a jet blade now that works great.


----------



## Julian (Sep 30, 2008)

*Updated router and outfeed tables*

After finally finishing my latest project, I had some time to do some well overdue upgrades to my shop. I bought a rousseau router plate, and a Freud FT1700VCEK 2 1/4 hp router for the new router table I built. It replaced my old router setup that was built into my outfeed table, and over the last five years had sagged a bit. I laminated 2 layers of baltic birch 1/2" plywood for the router table, then added formica on top and bottom. Let me be the first to say that being able to use the table saw fence with the router is great. The extra surface for ripping wide boards is also nice.

The outfeed table is 44"x48" wide, and the router table is 18"x24".


----------



## gad5264 (Sep 13, 2007)

Julian said:


> *Updated router and outfeed tables*
> 
> After finally finishing my latest project, I had some time to do some well overdue upgrades to my shop. I bought a rousseau router plate, and a Freud FT1700VCEK 2 1/4 hp router for the new router table I built. It replaced my old router setup that was built into my outfeed table, and over the last five years had sagged a bit. I laminated 2 layers of baltic birch 1/2" plywood for the router table, then added formica on top and bottom. Let me be the first to say that being able to use the table saw fence with the router is great. The extra surface for ripping wide boards is also nice.
> 
> The outfeed table is 44"x48" wide, and the router table is 18"x24".


Very nice Julian, thanks for posting


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

Julian said:


> *Updated router and outfeed tables*
> 
> After finally finishing my latest project, I had some time to do some well overdue upgrades to my shop. I bought a rousseau router plate, and a Freud FT1700VCEK 2 1/4 hp router for the new router table I built. It replaced my old router setup that was built into my outfeed table, and over the last five years had sagged a bit. I laminated 2 layers of baltic birch 1/2" plywood for the router table, then added formica on top and bottom. Let me be the first to say that being able to use the table saw fence with the router is great. The extra surface for ripping wide boards is also nice.
> 
> The outfeed table is 44"x48" wide, and the router table is 18"x24".


nice job on the lamination! what did you use to laminate the plywood sheets? and the formica top layer?

nice setup!


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

Julian said:


> *Updated router and outfeed tables*
> 
> After finally finishing my latest project, I had some time to do some well overdue upgrades to my shop. I bought a rousseau router plate, and a Freud FT1700VCEK 2 1/4 hp router for the new router table I built. It replaced my old router setup that was built into my outfeed table, and over the last five years had sagged a bit. I laminated 2 layers of baltic birch 1/2" plywood for the router table, then added formica on top and bottom. Let me be the first to say that being able to use the table saw fence with the router is great. The extra surface for ripping wide boards is also nice.
> 
> The outfeed table is 44"x48" wide, and the router table is 18"x24".


Looks like a nice set-up to me.

I used that tablesaw on a job once and I loved it. I think that it is a good one for the money.


----------



## Julian (Sep 30, 2008)

Julian said:


> *Updated router and outfeed tables*
> 
> After finally finishing my latest project, I had some time to do some well overdue upgrades to my shop. I bought a rousseau router plate, and a Freud FT1700VCEK 2 1/4 hp router for the new router table I built. It replaced my old router setup that was built into my outfeed table, and over the last five years had sagged a bit. I laminated 2 layers of baltic birch 1/2" plywood for the router table, then added formica on top and bottom. Let me be the first to say that being able to use the table saw fence with the router is great. The extra surface for ripping wide boards is also nice.
> 
> The outfeed table is 44"x48" wide, and the router table is 18"x24".


Thanks for the comments.

PurpLev, I used titebond 2 to laminate the plywood, and contact cement to laminate the formica.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Julian said:


> *Updated router and outfeed tables*
> 
> After finally finishing my latest project, I had some time to do some well overdue upgrades to my shop. I bought a rousseau router plate, and a Freud FT1700VCEK 2 1/4 hp router for the new router table I built. It replaced my old router setup that was built into my outfeed table, and over the last five years had sagged a bit. I laminated 2 layers of baltic birch 1/2" plywood for the router table, then added formica on top and bottom. Let me be the first to say that being able to use the table saw fence with the router is great. The extra surface for ripping wide boards is also nice.
> 
> The outfeed table is 44"x48" wide, and the router table is 18"x24".


Nice router and tablesaw setup.


----------



## Julian (Sep 30, 2008)

*Motor upgrade for the bandsaw*

I just picked up a 1 1/2 hp 1740 rpm motor from a friend today for $30. It's a VERY clean old Doerr brand motor made in Cedarburg, Wisconsin. After rewiring it to run in reverse, I installed it into my rigid 14" bandsaw that has a 6" riserblock, and many carter upgrades.

Let me say that the saw is a totally different beast now! With the underpowered stock 3/4 HP motor, a very slow feed rate was needed to resaw tall stock. Now it breezes through 10" rock maple without slowing down at all. I am very pleased with the results, and would suggest this to everyone as one of the most needed upgrades to the typical 14" Chinese made saws. Now if I would have just saved my money before I bought this 14" saw, and just bought a well built 17" saw. Oh well, it works well now, and I am happy with it.


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

Julian said:


> *Motor upgrade for the bandsaw*
> 
> I just picked up a 1 1/2 hp 1740 rpm motor from a friend today for $30. It's a VERY clean old Doerr brand motor made in Cedarburg, Wisconsin. After rewiring it to run in reverse, I installed it into my rigid 14" bandsaw that has a 6" riserblock, and many carter upgrades.
> 
> Let me say that the saw is a totally different beast now! With the underpowered stock 3/4 HP motor, a very slow feed rate was needed to resaw tall stock. Now it breezes through 10" rock maple without slowing down at all. I am very pleased with the results, and would suggest this to everyone as one of the most needed upgrades to the typical 14" Chinese made saws. Now if I would have just saved my money before I bought this 14" saw, and just bought a well built 17" saw. Oh well, it works well now, and I am happy with it.


I made a similar upgrade to a 14" Jet saw a few years ago. It made a dramatic difference. I also had the other upgrades with the riser block and Carter guides. These were all welcome improvements.

I am sure that you will be really happy with it for a long time.


----------



## woodworm (Jul 27, 2008)

Julian said:


> *Motor upgrade for the bandsaw*
> 
> I just picked up a 1 1/2 hp 1740 rpm motor from a friend today for $30. It's a VERY clean old Doerr brand motor made in Cedarburg, Wisconsin. After rewiring it to run in reverse, I installed it into my rigid 14" bandsaw that has a 6" riserblock, and many carter upgrades.
> 
> Let me say that the saw is a totally different beast now! With the underpowered stock 3/4 HP motor, a very slow feed rate was needed to resaw tall stock. Now it breezes through 10" rock maple without slowing down at all. I am very pleased with the results, and would suggest this to everyone as one of the most needed upgrades to the typical 14" Chinese made saws. Now if I would have just saved my money before I bought this 14" saw, and just bought a well built 17" saw. Oh well, it works well now, and I am happy with it.


What a great save!


----------



## CedarFreakCarl (Apr 21, 2007)

Julian said:


> *Motor upgrade for the bandsaw*
> 
> I just picked up a 1 1/2 hp 1740 rpm motor from a friend today for $30. It's a VERY clean old Doerr brand motor made in Cedarburg, Wisconsin. After rewiring it to run in reverse, I installed it into my rigid 14" bandsaw that has a 6" riserblock, and many carter upgrades.
> 
> Let me say that the saw is a totally different beast now! With the underpowered stock 3/4 HP motor, a very slow feed rate was needed to resaw tall stock. Now it breezes through 10" rock maple without slowing down at all. I am very pleased with the results, and would suggest this to everyone as one of the most needed upgrades to the typical 14" Chinese made saws. Now if I would have just saved my money before I bought this 14" saw, and just bought a well built 17" saw. Oh well, it works well now, and I am happy with it.


I've got the Ridgid BS and you're right….it's very under powered. However, if you're not resawing, it does a pretty good job at everything else. I've got a Rikon 18" for resawing. Some of the Ridgid 14" BS's have vibration issues. How's it doing for you in that respect?


----------



## Julian (Sep 30, 2008)

Julian said:


> *Motor upgrade for the bandsaw*
> 
> I just picked up a 1 1/2 hp 1740 rpm motor from a friend today for $30. It's a VERY clean old Doerr brand motor made in Cedarburg, Wisconsin. After rewiring it to run in reverse, I installed it into my rigid 14" bandsaw that has a 6" riserblock, and many carter upgrades.
> 
> Let me say that the saw is a totally different beast now! With the underpowered stock 3/4 HP motor, a very slow feed rate was needed to resaw tall stock. Now it breezes through 10" rock maple without slowing down at all. I am very pleased with the results, and would suggest this to everyone as one of the most needed upgrades to the typical 14" Chinese made saws. Now if I would have just saved my money before I bought this 14" saw, and just bought a well built 17" saw. Oh well, it works well now, and I am happy with it.


The wheels were out of balance a bit, so I drilled partial holes in the outer lip of the wheel where needed. I also added a link belt and a piece of plywood where the motor mounts. There is almost no vibration to speak of now.


----------



## Julian (Sep 30, 2008)

*Making the delta 6" jointer dust collection ACTUALLY work.*

I have dealt with the sub par dust collection opening of this jointer for over ten years now. Today I went out to the shop and said no longer will I deal with a clogged dust chute, and wood chips all over the shop. All I did to correct the problem was to box out the chute and make it 4" deep all the way to the bottom, then put the chut facing 90 degrees to the chute, which would solve the problem of chips collecting and clogging up the chute. Well, I just ran a ton of boards through the planer and it worked perfectly for the FIRST time in ten years. Why I never did this before, I will never know, but I do know this. Delta really dropped the ball on the dust collection on this one.


----------



## gagewestern (Mar 24, 2009)

Julian said:


> *Making the delta 6" jointer dust collection ACTUALLY work.*
> 
> I have dealt with the sub par dust collection opening of this jointer for over ten years now. Today I went out to the shop and said no longer will I deal with a clogged dust chute, and wood chips all over the shop. All I did to correct the problem was to box out the chute and make it 4" deep all the way to the bottom, then put the chut facing 90 degrees to the chute, which would solve the problem of chips collecting and clogging up the chute. Well, I just ran a ton of boards through the planer and it worked perfectly for the FIRST time in ten years. Why I never did this before, I will never know, but I do know this. Delta really dropped the ball on the dust collection on this one.


well sometimes it takes some of us some time to think of the right fix brian


----------



## bowyer (Feb 6, 2009)

Julian said:


> *Making the delta 6" jointer dust collection ACTUALLY work.*
> 
> I have dealt with the sub par dust collection opening of this jointer for over ten years now. Today I went out to the shop and said no longer will I deal with a clogged dust chute, and wood chips all over the shop. All I did to correct the problem was to box out the chute and make it 4" deep all the way to the bottom, then put the chut facing 90 degrees to the chute, which would solve the problem of chips collecting and clogging up the chute. Well, I just ran a ton of boards through the planer and it worked perfectly for the FIRST time in ten years. Why I never did this before, I will never know, but I do know this. Delta really dropped the ball on the dust collection on this one.


I'm glad to know I'm not the only one who needs to be pushed at times to come up with simple solutions.


----------



## MVGraz (Jan 11, 2009)

Julian said:


> *Making the delta 6" jointer dust collection ACTUALLY work.*
> 
> I have dealt with the sub par dust collection opening of this jointer for over ten years now. Today I went out to the shop and said no longer will I deal with a clogged dust chute, and wood chips all over the shop. All I did to correct the problem was to box out the chute and make it 4" deep all the way to the bottom, then put the chut facing 90 degrees to the chute, which would solve the problem of chips collecting and clogging up the chute. Well, I just ran a ton of boards through the planer and it worked perfectly for the FIRST time in ten years. Why I never did this before, I will never know, but I do know this. Delta really dropped the ball on the dust collection on this one.


Julian - I am having a dust chute problem with my jointer I thought you may have an answer to. I have a similar size Jet jointer with the dust chute on the left side like yours. I recently picked it up used locally. The jointer works find, but all the chips shoot out the right side of the jointer, under the infeed bed. I assumed there was a clog somewhere so I shot air through the entire machine. I got to some chip build up I handn't seen before, but it is still doing it. No chips go into the dust chute - all just shoot out the right side.

Thanks. Mike


----------



## chocked (Oct 27, 2012)

Julian said:


> *Making the delta 6" jointer dust collection ACTUALLY work.*
> 
> I have dealt with the sub par dust collection opening of this jointer for over ten years now. Today I went out to the shop and said no longer will I deal with a clogged dust chute, and wood chips all over the shop. All I did to correct the problem was to box out the chute and make it 4" deep all the way to the bottom, then put the chut facing 90 degrees to the chute, which would solve the problem of chips collecting and clogging up the chute. Well, I just ran a ton of boards through the planer and it worked perfectly for the FIRST time in ten years. Why I never did this before, I will never know, but I do know this. Delta really dropped the ball on the dust collection on this one.


Funny - I have been out in the shop making a dust chute for my "what the heck is it" jointer now I can go back and change my plan a little.

Thanks - Julian good job!


----------



## yrob (May 26, 2008)

Julian said:


> *Making the delta 6" jointer dust collection ACTUALLY work.*
> 
> I have dealt with the sub par dust collection opening of this jointer for over ten years now. Today I went out to the shop and said no longer will I deal with a clogged dust chute, and wood chips all over the shop. All I did to correct the problem was to box out the chute and make it 4" deep all the way to the bottom, then put the chut facing 90 degrees to the chute, which would solve the problem of chips collecting and clogging up the chute. Well, I just ran a ton of boards through the planer and it worked perfectly for the FIRST time in ten years. Why I never did this before, I will never know, but I do know this. Delta really dropped the ball on the dust collection on this one.


mike,
i have the same issue on my jet. i am planning to fix it by installing a 45 degrees plate
inside the cabinet to restrict the suction to the area that matters if that does
not work the backup plan is to run the 4" hose inside the cabinet all the way to a funnel aimed at the knife area.


----------

