# PC Mini Dovetail Template #4215 - Nice Idea, Poor Design, Not as Advertised



## Howie (May 25, 2010)

I can share your frustrations with the PC dovetail jig(s). I had a 4212 that I "fiddled" with three times and was never satisfied with the results(these were like an hour at a time not just a few minutes) I finally gave up and bought an Incra for my router table(LS-25) 
The instructions for the Incra lists the smallest dovetail at 1/4" thru and 3/8" blind material thickness if this will help. I've found it is hard to beat the Incra for accuracy and their video makes the learning curve fairly simple.


----------



## JustJoe (Oct 26, 2012)

Thanks I'll look into the Incra.


----------



## Cato (May 1, 2009)

I have the 4212 and it works well for me on thru dovetails. I can get them so tight I have to use a rubber hammer to knock them apart. I use scrap to set up same thickness as project pieces and that has worked well for me.

I have thought about getting the smaller jig set a few times but just haven't had the need.

Howie, the easiest way I found to work the 4212on dovetails was to use two routers rather than switching bits back and forth.
Once I did that it was like night and day. No frustration and very minor adjustments to get tight fitting joints.


----------



## BrentNichols (Apr 30, 2010)

The new 16" PC omni jig works very well for minature dovetails. This is probably were they corrected the issue, but not sure if you can justify the cost… Goodluck


----------



## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

Wow, you are the first person I have heard of that started with the Leigh and then got a P.C. jig. It's usually the other way around.
I started with the 4210, and actually got really good HB dovetails with it. Now I have the Akeda, which is a really slick system for thin stock. You use steeper angled bits with thinner stock, 14 or 20 degree dovetails for 1/4"-3/8" parts. The bits are pretty small, and it makes some interesting joints.


----------



## Panthera (Jan 23, 2021)

I am not an expert at woodworking, or using this jig, but have been playing with it for a while. The problem your picture is showing is not tightness. If it was loose, there should be a gap at the top and bottom of the dovetail, yours only shows the gap at the bottom. This is a different issue, and no amount of depth adjustment will solve it. Do the joints go together tight? They look tight, but hard to tell from a pic.

I ran into this with the full sized blind jig. The flat aluminum guide is not very stiff, and can easily bow. When putting in the side piece (non blind piece) it is very easy to push up on the guide plate, causing it to bow up. If that happens, you get the gap. I always put in the face (and if narrow, another piece on the other side), and verify the template is flat and tight. I then hold the plate down when inserting the vertical piece, just to be sure. Also, some down pressure on the router helps. I just received the miniature template, so will be trying some tests soon. I will let you know my results.


----------



## Panthera (Jan 23, 2021)

Ok, I finally was able to play with the 4215 template using some scrap poplar. I was able to get nice tight half blind joints, but with the bit depth set to 5/16". With thinner wood, this would not work. I was using 1/2" (7/16" actual) and this only left an eighth. It certainly would not work with 1/4" wood.

With the full sized template, I was able to use other bits. I am wondering if a steeper bit would allow a shallower cut? Anybody try this?


----------

