# Upgrading Garage Shop Wiring



## weathersfuori (Apr 23, 2015)

Hi Everyone,

I've read through several topics like this and they have been very helpful in generating ideas for my own situation, which I am sure many of you have been in as well. I am mostly a hobbyist though I do sell a few things to fund my hobby. My little shop has come a lot farther than I ever expected it to, and I'm ready to take it up another notch with an upgraded 3HP table saw. More than likely, this will be the last major upgrade to my equipment as anything more than I have could only be justified by additional time spent in the shop making things, and with 3 young kids, I'm already pushing those boundaries.

So, in order to upgrade my saw, I've got to add 240V service to my detached garage. Fortunately, it is unfinished and the main panel is right in the middle of the wall where all my bigger machines are located. My shop is small, essentially just a single stall in the garage with a couple feet of extra width. I need to add a sub panel, as my main panel is already out of space, but the sub panel will be located right next to the main. I am going to resist the temptation to install the sub panel myself since I have very little experience with electrical, and while I feel I'm pretty handy, I want to make sure this is done correctly. That said, the cheaper I can make this, the sooner I can get my new TS and maybe even add some extras to it, so I am looking to find ways to save on the wiring and may consider installing receptacles myself.

I wanted to run this past the group to make sure I'm at least in the ballpark on what I need so that I can provide an electrician with enough detail to make this process go smoothly, and also so that I don't sound dumb enough to be taken advantage of (no small task!).

Since all my tools currently run on a 20A, 120V circuit and meet my needs that way, the only thing that I HAVE to have on 240 is the new TS, but I figure it would be best to add a second 240V circuit to the new sub panel now for future use if I ever decide to upgrade my dust collector. Realistically, I probably won't, but the extra 240V circuit seems to be a smart move just in case, and I assume this won't add much to the total cost in the end. 20A enough for these two circuits?

Aside from the two 240V circuits, I don't think I need more than two additional 120V circuits… I never run more than 2 tools at once currently (TS+DC, BS+DC, planer +DC, jointer+DC, etc), but could see adding a hanging shop filter sometime soon, which is probably best on its own circuit. The remaining circuit would be used for smaller tools and/or the planer, jointer or band saw. I may decide down the road to upgrade my band saw and/or jointer to 240, but could always run them on the same circuit as the table saw (not at the same time).

My lighting is minimal and although I may add additional florescent fixtures down the road, they are currently covered by a circuit on my main panel, so nothing additional is needed at this time for lighting. All my machines are on wheels, so I don't need a bunch of receptacles. I'm really just looking to keep this as minimal as possible, since the only real reason for rewiring is the new table saw, but obviously I'm not going to add a subpanel with just one 240V circuit and call it a day. Given the above info, what size/amperage sub panel should I be asking for?

My dad is retiring next month and my old hobby, fishing with him, may take over before too long so I don't want to go overboard with shop set up, especially given how small my shop is.

Any thoughts/advice is greatly appreciated!


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

I think you're on the right track.

I would suggest a couple 120 circuits for a couple reasons. For example, if I plug my shop vac and miter saw in same outlet, about 50% of the time it will pop as soon as the saw starts.

Also, if you keep the lighting on one circuit, if any tool ever blows a breaker you won't be in the dark.

Its very easy and cheap to do even in a small shop.


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

I would recommend putting in at least a 100-125amp panel/box. Even though right now you think you will never need to add breakers/240v/outlets/etc. protect yourself and just do it. This way you will never have to come back and "re-do" it if and when you want/need a new WW toy. The difference in cost is minimal and you will thank yourself many times over. Just my 2-cents…


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## weathersfuori (Apr 23, 2015)

Thanks guys. Mike- I hear ya and totally expected this response. Do you think this would work for me?

The 240V circuits will each take up a space right? I know (or think I know) you can fit two 120v breakers in a space provided they are 20A or less. If I install two 240V circuits and two 120V circuits, that should leave me with at least 3 open spaces for future expansion, right?

EDIT: Don't know what I was thinking with this second statement. Obviously only one breaker will fit in a space… So these panels are advertised as having capacity of twice as many circuits as there are spaces… so you can have two circuits on a single breaker? Apologize if this is a stupid question, but I don't really understand that part.

Anyhow upon further review, it seems I'll use up two spaces for each 240V breaker. Can I run two separate 240V circuits off that one 240V breaker? Or am I going to use up 4 spaces with two 240V circuits?


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## WhyMe (Feb 15, 2014)

First things first, what size is the existing panel in the detached garage and does it have a main breaker or is there a main disconnect at the detached garage? A double pole breaker will use 2 spaces. The panel you linked to can use twin/tandem breakers so that is why it show 12 circuits. Using two double pole 240V breakers(4 spaces) and one 120V tandem(1 space) for two 120V circuits will leave one space open for another 120V tandem or two 120V circuits.


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## weathersfuori (Apr 23, 2015)

WhyMe- thanks! Your explanation is very helpful and it all makes perfect sense now. The existing panel does have a main breaker. I know that much. It supplies all the power to our home. I'm not 100% certain what size it is but I think it is a 200A main. Will check it out in a couple hours when I get home and report back. The house is only 10 years old, so we aren't dealing with a real old setup.

I've ruled out the panel I linked, as I want a little more wiggle room for expansion than that. I'm thinking this would be a better option and only costs about $8-10 more. Just trying to get an idea of what the itemized cost will be for this project, with the wildcard being labor for the electrician, and maybe I can save some $ by buying the supplies myself.


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## WhyMe (Feb 15, 2014)

The reason I asked about the existing panel and main disconnect is if the existing panel was a main lug with no main breaker and only had six breakers by adding another panel you'd exceed the number of breakers you can have without a main disconnect in the detached garage which would require a main disconnect to be installed at the detached garage. But since your existing panel is a main breaker all of that doesn't matter. I didn't see a link to your new choice of a panel, but at least do a 100 or125A with 20 spaces or 12 spaces/24 circuits.


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## weathersfuori (Apr 23, 2015)

WhyMe- Gotcha. I thought that may be the case.

Oops! Here is the link to the other panel... which looks like a match to your recommendation. From what I'm hearing so far this should be a little more than enough for what I need now, and enough for what I believe I'll need in the future.


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## bonesbr549 (Jan 1, 2010)

I've done 5 shops now from tiny sub panel to my current full panel. Like you I have one 220 for my DC, and one for my tools, as I'd never run more than one at a time.

I have seperate 20A circuits for my other tools. Finally I'd recommend not sharing your lights with your tools. I had to do that once not good. I even have my lights on two sep circuits. Worst thing I ever had happen was my ligh breaker tripped and I was in a dark room with a saw running. That will take your pucker level off the charts



Good luck.


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

> Thanks guys. Mike- I hear ya and totally expected this response. Do you think this would work for me?
> The 240V circuits will each take up a space right? I know (or think I know) you can fit two 120v breakers in a space provided they are 20A or less. If I install two 240V circuits and two 120V circuits, that should leave me with at least 3 open spaces for future expansion, right?
> EDIT: Don t know what I was thinking with this second statement. Obviously only one breaker will fit in a space… So these panels are advertised as having capacity of twice as many circuits as there are spaces… so you can have two circuits on a single breaker? Apologize if this is a stupid question, but I don t really understand that part.
> Anyhow upon further review, it seems I ll use up two spaces for each 240V breaker. Can I run two separate 240V circuits off that one 240V breaker? Or am I going to use up 4 spaces with two 240V circuits?
> - weathersfuori


Looks like that will work well. FWIW, each "space" is a full height two-pole space good for 240v. For 120v you fit in "half height" single-pole breakers (two in each "space).

Here is mine below. I went with a 125amp box and have three 240v circuits and six 120v circuits set up for my shop. I went with GE brand because that is what my main panel is. I have a 100amp breaker on my main panel, that feeds the sub-panel. Since my sub-panel is in a metal building, I surface mounted the box on one of the beams.









PowerMark Gold 125 Amp 6-Space 12-Circuit Outdoor Main Lug Circuit Breaker Panel $40.25

GE

http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-PowerMark-Gold-125-Amp-6-Space-12-Circuit-Outdoor-Main-Lug-Circuit-Breaker-Panel-TLM612RCUP/100168646


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

When you look for the new panel, instead of buying on price you might want to get one that matches the existing unit…that's probably a Square D QO, but there are quite a few others. Since the panels will be so close together, the new panel (and breakers) will be about the only costs for parts, the piece of wire will only be a few feet long. Anyway, having them match will give you the ability to swap breakers around if that's ever needed for some reason.


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## weathersfuori (Apr 23, 2015)

Great advice here guys, much appreciated. Good point on getting the same brand. I'm thinking I will have to move a couple existing breakers over to the new panel to make room for the panel feed, since my main panel is maxed out.

HorizontalMike… so a 240V breaker will only take up one space in the new panel? So if I got a 6-space panel, installed two 240v breakers, I'd have 4 spaces left which could accommodate 8 120v breakers or an extra 240 and 3 120s? That's your setup, right? This seems to contradict what was said earlier about dual pole breakers and how much space they take… but since you actually have the setup, thought I'd ask! For $5-10 more, I might just go for the 12 spacer anyway, but was just curious.


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## WhyMe (Feb 15, 2014)

HorizontalMike has a GE panel and breakers. Square D is different and 2 pole breakers use 2 spaces. The tandem single pole uses 1 space. There is a Square D Quad Tandem that is 1 DP plus 2 SP that uses 2 spaces. If you use a Square D panel you can't go by what HorizontalMike said for his GE panel.

Edit: The Quad is only for the Square-D Homeline. I don't think there is a Quad for the QO.


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## weathersfuori (Apr 23, 2015)

Gotcha… I figured you were both right!

Turns out I have a Cutler Hammer main panel. I noticed there are some Square-D breakers in it that were added by a previous owner when they put the pool in. I'll get a Cutler Hammer sub since, looking my panel again, I'm going to have to do quite a bit of rearranging in order to make room for the feed breaker for subpanel. I've attached my main panel here… any advice on what to take out here and move to the subpanel? Ugh…










PS. Main breaker is 150A… does that change anything for my subpanel?


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## WhyMe (Feb 15, 2014)

That is a BR line of Cutler-Hammer. Square-D breakers are a no no in a CH panel. They fit but are not listed for use in the CH panel.


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## TajBuilder (Aug 6, 2008)

This may have already been answered, but how many circuits is your current 200 amp panel rated for and how many circuits are you currently using? If you are four circuits shy of the maximum, you may be able to gain the spaces you need my switching some of your existing single pole breakers to tandem breakers. For example, if you have ten single pole breakers and changed them to five tandem breakers, you would gain four spaces for your two 240v circuits and one space for a tandem 120v breaker for your two 120v lines. The maximum number of circuits should be located somewhere on the inside of the panel.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

I did my own shop for electrical with no prior experience. The #1 best thing I did is add a 120v 20amp outlet top center of my ceiling with a 12 gauge overhead reel. If I did not add my 10 110v outlets, I would of simply installed 2 outlets overhead with reels separated by 8' or so to cover entire workshop. You'll find those reels are truly glorious.
http://lumberjocks.com/Holbs/blog/34833


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## TajBuilder (Aug 6, 2008)

I didn't see the photo of your panel before my last post and it is clearly full. As a general rule, a sub-panel should be no more than 2/3 the size of the main. Since your main is 150 amp, the sub should be no larger than 100 amp. If the sub-panel is located in the same building, the bonding screw should be removed and the neutrals isolated from the ground wires. If its in a different building, the bonding screw is still removed but it needs its own main and ground rod. This is the setup I have in my detached shop.


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## WhyMe (Feb 15, 2014)

> I didn t see the photo of your panel before my last post and it is clearly full. As a general rule, a sub-panel should be no more than 2/3 the size of the main. Since your main is 150 amp, the sub should be no larger than 100 amp. If the sub-panel is located in the same building, the bonding screw should be removed and the neutrals isolated from the ground wires. If its in a different building, it needs its own main and ground rod, and the bonding screw is used. This is the setup I have in my detached shop.
> 
> - Roy Turbett


You are providing some misinformation. A sub panel in a detached building is not to have its neutral bonded to the ground. A main disconnect is not required in a detached building as long as there are no more than 6 breakers. There's no rule of thumb that a sub panel is to be 2/3 the size of the main service panel.
Tbe only location the neutral should be bonded is at the first main service disconnect after that any sub panel's the neutral is isolated. Also the feedsr to a subpanel needs to be 4 wires.


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## TajBuilder (Aug 6, 2008)

I edited my last post prior to your correction to indicate the bonding screw is only used at the first main service disconnect and apologize for the confusion. However, inspectors in my area interpret NEC 225.31 to require a service disconnect for all panels in detached buildings. Some go even further and a say that a panel with a main isn't enough and require a separate disconnect that is located as near as possible on either the inside or outside of the building where the wires enter. The 2/3 rule of thumb isn't code but it reduces the risk of tripping the main in the house before the main in the sub-panel.


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## WhyMe (Feb 15, 2014)

I should use a caveat that I only cite the NEC because local requirements differ and even some local inspectors require more or less than the NEC because they don't know the NEC. 
As far as your 2/3 general rule I must say in all my years of doing electrical work that is a new one to me. Sizing a subpanel should be done using load calculations with consideration to the existing service load.


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## weathersfuori (Apr 23, 2015)

Thanks all. My plan is to have a few electricians come out and give me a quote for adding the subpanel and 4 circuits (2×240V and 2×120V, all 20 amp breakers), and then also ask what they'd charge if I hooked up all the outlets and installed breakers in a new panel, and essentially just have the electrician check my work and make the connection between the sub and the main. That last part is the part I'm afraid I'd screw up due to lack of experience, especially with regard to all these code variances, etc.

I'm having a hard time finding a panel less than 125 amps aside from the SquareD panel I first linked to, which only has 6 spaces, so I hope going over 2/3 is not an issue. Guess I'll see what the local electricians say. I can certainly understand what Roy is getting at with that rule of thumb… maybe it isn't absolutely vital, but I can see the reasoning.

One other question I had just for my own clarification so I can keep the electrician honest…Please correct any of these statements if I'm wrong.

I will need to feed the sub panel with a two-pole breaker in the main panel, right? From what I've read, a 50amp two-pole breaker will suffice for this. 
But since my main panel is completely full, I am going to have to remove a couple of single pole breakers or one two-pole breakers and move that (those) circuit(s) over to the new sub panel, in order to make room for the sub panel feed breaker.

I'm afraid that when I run one of the existing circuits into the sub panel, the wires may not be long enough to reach even if the sub is right next to the main panel… so I'll have to think about that carefully I guess.

I ran into this website which seems to be a nice, simple overview of this whole process and might be helpful to others looking at this thread who are in my situation.

With all the reading I've done the past couple days, and comments on here, I'm more comfortable tackling at least some of this project myself (wiring the circuits in the new panel, purchasing materials), but am definitely going to play it safe and at least leave the main panel connections to a pro. Just trying to find ways to minimize the cost.


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## TajBuilder (Aug 6, 2008)

> I should use a caveat that I only cite the NEC because local requirements differ and even some local inspectors require more or less than the NEC because they don t know the NEC.
> As far as your 2/3 general rule I must say in all my years of doing electrical work that is a new one to me. Sizing a subpanel should be done using load calculations with consideration to the existing service load.
> 
> - WhyMe


I also apply the 2/3 rule when I size a circuit after I've completed my load calculations to leave some wiggle room for future considerations. For example, when I built my shop, I put a 20 amp 120 v circuit on the north wall that worked fine when I was using a single tool. However, when I later added a microwave oven and coffee maker that I hadn't considered in my original load calculations I would sometimes trip the breaker when I used my SCMS on the same circuit.

I've also remodeled several houses that had old nob and tube wiring where previous owners spliced into the line to add add additional outlets and then increased the size of the fuse. The house I'm currently remodeling has char marks on the joists in the attic and inside the stud bay in the kitchen wall. I've since re-wired the entire house and in the process added an eight circuit sub-panel and separate disconnect in the garage.

I had a situation with my cottage where the 60 amp main was located at a service pole 300 feet from my cottage. I put in a 100 amp sub-panel with a 100 amp main breaker in the cottage and would sometimes trip the 60 amp main at the pole. This usually happened in the dead of winter when I was using the electric stove and electric heaters at the same time. The only solution would have been to upgrade the service at the pole and upsize the wires from the pole to the cottage. I would also have lost my grandfathered status and had to go from three wires to four.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

As it turns out, my house has CH panels as well and i recently had some work done (to add a subpanel in my shop). The outcome of all this is I have a CH 70 amp 2 pole breaker that you can have for gratis, I'll even pay the postage. You could use it to feed your subpanel. If you want PM me your address and I'll get t out. (PS, this isn;t that big a deal since these aren't all that expensive, but this breaker isn't going to see use otherwise.)


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## WhyMe (Feb 15, 2014)

> I have a CH 70 amp 2 pole breaker that you can have for gratis, I ll even pay the postage.- Fred Hargis


I believe the OP's panel is a Cutler-Hammer BR style so a Cutler-Hammer CH style will not fit his panel.



> I m having a hard time finding a panel less than 125 amps aside from the SquareD panel I first linked to, which only has 6 spaces, so I hope going over 2/3 is not an issue. Guess I ll see what the local electricians say. I can certainly understand what Roy is getting at with that rule of thumb… maybe it isn t absolutely vital, but I can see the reasoning.
> 
> - weathersfuori


Don't get hung up on Roy's 2/3 rule. You can use a 125A panel with no issues. The 125A is just the load rating of the panel, that doesn't mean you have to feed it with 125A. Just feed it from the main panel with a 50A, 60A breaker if that's all you need. Actually your existing panel will have a label in it that will tell you what the highest amp breaker is you can use for a branch circuit/feeder.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

OOPs, sorry….


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## weathersfuori (Apr 23, 2015)

No worries, Fred. I appreciate the offer!

WhyMe- thanks for all your help. With everything I've learned from this thread, I can be better prepared to receive quotes from local electricians and weigh my options. It sounds like the 125A panel with a 50A feed breaker in the main panel is a common setup, so now I just need to confirm what's compatible with my current panel/breakers and sort out which circuits to pull out of the main and put in the sub. I'm guessing the best bet is to move circuits that don't get much use/don't pull much amperage so that I don't trip the feed breaker. Maybe it would be best to go with a 60A feed just in case.

EDIT: Bingo- Just looking at my panel again… I can move the pool waterfall pump, which is on a double pole breaker, over to the new subpanel. It is almost never used and will never be used while I'm in the shop because I honestly don't think anybody else in my house even knows where the switch is to turn it on!


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## Woodmaster1 (Apr 26, 2011)

I have a 200amp service for my detached garage. I installed it myself had it inspected and approved. I did not like the idea of using the house panel to feed the garage. My luck was the utility pole was 5' from the garage. So if your close enough the power pole I would install a separate service.


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## WhyMe (Feb 15, 2014)

It didn't dawn on me until Woodmaster1"s post. You say that the main panel is in the detached garage and supplies power to the house. If the garage is detached how are all those circuits run to the house? I tried going back and rereading but I must be missing something.


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## weathersfuori (Apr 23, 2015)

All the wiring goes through essentially an elevated crawl space between the garage and the house… it's really a covered walkway between the two designed, I think, wholly just to run wires. It's common out here in Houston. Our old house which was built in the 70s was done this way too.

So I guess if you really wanted to get technical, it's not a truly detached garage .


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## WhyMe (Feb 15, 2014)

Around my parts that's considered attached. That make sense now. You can't run a second service as Woodmaster1 suggested.


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## weathersfuori (Apr 23, 2015)

Dang… sorry guys. I should have been more specific. It's definitely not a separate building but I live in the concrete jungle, so they consider what I have to be a detached garage!


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## weathersfuori (Apr 23, 2015)

One last question for you all to see if I am on the right track in terms of materials needed. My biggest uncertainty is in the wire size, so please correct if I'm wrong.

125A panel (planning on this kit which is an Eaton BR Type)... comes with five 20A breakers

60A breaker for main panel that will feed subpanel (going with 60 instead of 50 just in case… just received a new flat screen TV as a gift last night for my shop!)

~5 ft. of #6 wire (4 wires) for connecting main to sub (again, sub panel will be located right next to the main)

(2) 20A double pole breakers for my two 240V circuits
(2) NEMA 6-20R receptacles for my 240V circuits (only 240V tool at the moment will be a Grizzly 1023RL that I plan to buy… don't comment on my choice of TS I've already made my decision after changing my mind 20 times!! )

(2) 20A 120V receptacles, one for each 120V circuit that I plan to add at this time (will add more as/if I need them, but this is all I'll need for now)

50 ft. of 12-2 wire for all four new 20A outlets (need to do a little more measuring to see if I actually need 50ft… runs are going to be short). 12-2 will work for both my 240V and my 120V outlets, right? Or do I need 12-3 for something…? I've installed a 120V 20A outlet before, just can't remember off the top of my head what wire I used.

What do you think I'm missing?


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## TajBuilder (Aug 6, 2008)

12-3 wire is sometimes used so two separate 120v circuits in close proximity to each other (such as a dishwasher and disposal) can share the neutral and save on wire. It also makes it easy to put two duplex outlets, each on their own circuit, in the same box. However, the two circuits that share a neutral must have separate single pole breakers (no tandem breaker) that are bonded together in the service panel. This ensures that if one breaker trips the other will also trip.

12-2 wire can be used for both 120v and 240v. When used for 240v, the white wire gets wrapped in black or red tape to indicate it is hot.


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## kroginold (Jul 13, 2015)

One other possible suggestion since you are hiring an electrician anyway: upgrade your main panel to 200Amp or greater service and main panel with more slots. If you go with same brand all the breakers except the main could be reused


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## weathersfuori (Apr 23, 2015)

Thanks Roy- I thought this was the case but wanted to be sure. I'm going to keep it simple especially since I'm only running a couple outlets for now.

kroginold- I hadn't really thought about that. I think if I was sure I'd be in this house for several more years and/or I was planning on taking over the whole garage as my man cave, that would be the best route… but we're considering moving within the next few years before my oldest starts high school, and with three daughters who all dance, there's a better chance the other 2 stalls of my garage turns into a dance floor than me expanding my shop! I think the sub panel is the best fit for me now factoring in cost… I'm hoping to do a lot of this project myself but leave the connections to a pro… upgrading the main panel I'm afraid would just cost too much because I won't do any of that myself.

Thanks again everyone, this has been so helpful. Hope everyone has a Merry Christmas.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

I just went through this process myself. I had the electrician run 10 gauge wire from the sub panel to the new outlets, but breaker them for 20 amps. Now I could have gotten away with 12 gauge wire for my current dust collector, but some larger dust collectors actually require 30 amp breakers. This way if I ever need to increase to a 30 amp breaker, it will be safe to do so without re-wiring.

Put in as large a box as you can for your situation. The electrician will give you the max allowed amperage based on the feed coming into the main panel. Upsizing from a 60 amp panel to a 125 amp panel, for instance, adds almost no cost to the project. You aren't buying all the breakers and wires to max out the service panel right now.

Remember that the sub panel has to be fed by a double pole from your main panel. So you will lose a couple spots in the main panel. These will be transferred over to the sub panel.

Good luck with the new juice.


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## WhyMe (Feb 15, 2014)

> ...... Now I could have gotten away with 12 gauge wire for my current dust collector, but some larger dust collectors actually require 30 amp breakers. This way if I ever need to increase to a 30 amp breaker, it will be safe to do so without re-wiring.
> 
> - pintodeluxe


I can understand your thought process but there is one problem. If the is a multiple outlet circuit with 15A or 20A duplex's then you can't just up the breaker to 30A. A 30A outlet circuit needs to be dedicated to only one outlet and the outlet needs to be rated for 30A. If there is a dust collector that requires a 30A circuit then it will need to be either hardwired or have a 30A plug on it. This is a NEC requirement that the over current protection is not to be a higher amp than any devices(outlet) amp rating that's in the circuit.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

Yeah, it would need a new breaker and outlet if I ever made that change. At least the wiring could support it.
They are all dedicated 240 plugs on their own breakers.


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## weathersfuori (Apr 23, 2015)

Yeah I plan to keep it simple and just 12-2 everything on the new panel. I'll know what's what, and if I ever need something more I will have plenty of space in the new panel to do it, and with the garage being unfinished it will be really easy and cheap to just run another wire since I'm talking at most about a 10 ft. run.

Realistically won't be able to work on this until after New Years and that is killing me! Doing my best to resist the urge to start buying materials and pre-wiring before I talk to a few electricians and make sure I'm getting the right stuff.


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## Woodmaster1 (Apr 26, 2011)

I have a separate 200amp service for the house and garage. They only charge a minimum fee if I don't use enough electricity in the garage, which has never happened. Generally the bill for the garage runs twenty five dollars.


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