# The Stanley #444 Dovetail Plane



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*An Overview*










Welcome to Part One of a short blog series that is a hands-on presentation of the Stanley #444 Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane, a tool that was available for a relatively short time and is a rarity in today's marketplace. Offered by Stanley from 1912-1938, the plane is infrequently listed for sale on eBay with a collector's price tag. My example had a few parts missing and features a cracked (and repaired, but still cracked) fence, so the plane is not collector material. And like every tool in my shop, this one is not for static display (unlike the one above, not mine BTW).

So I've had this plane since June 2012, plus or minus a couple weeks, and after more than a few hours and several false starts I was able to produce my first sliding dovetail assembly in March 2013. Why so bloody long, you ask? Lots of reasons, really, but let me say this: Aside from the Stanley manual and my own experience with a couple of somewhat-similar hand planes (the #78, #278 and #50 come to mind), insight has been hard to come by. As in, can anyone share a website or blog that talks about using the #444? I could not find one, and decided to fill the void.

As with any substantive subject, it's important to get everyone on the same page rhetorically. To the documentation, then, for a review of the basics.

*Anatomy of a Sliding Dovetail Joint*
Straight from the plane's manual comes this graphic (Figure 1, thanks Stan Faulin!):










Looks simple enough, right? We all know what dovetails look like and how sliding dovetails function. And the part about it sliding helps us move pretty easily past the Parallel vs. Tapering graphic… tapered grooves are useful when it comes to pulling the pieces together; a groove that moves tighter to the fit towards it's end is a good feature when executed properly. The point of including the set of Dovetail Joint images, then, lies in the depiction of shoulders, neck and depth. Why are these terms important? Simple. We have to be on the same page when it comes to various settings and adjustments to be made when using the plane. For example, two cuts at the end of a board create the dovetail portion of the joint (depicted as First Cut 6 and Second Cut 7 in Figure 2).










Each of these cuts produces shoulder measurements that, 1) Should match; and 2) Establish the dovetail's neck and depth. The neck and depth must be repeated in the groove, or the resulting joint will be subpar. I'll let that sink in a while.
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Okay, ready to move on? (We'll talk more on neck and depth later, I promise!)

*Key Components of the #444*

*-Fences*
The parts list for the #444 includes two fences; the smaller of the two installs with its base set at a 90 degrees to the body of the plane. Blood and Gore calls this piece a depth stop, and it's easy to see why once we get to set up. The plane's manual calls the smaller fence the SQUARE FENCE, however, so that's what I'll call it, too.










The larger fence is also L-shaped, but with an obtuse vs. right angle. It is referred to in the manual as the BEVEL FENCE. It also differs from the other in that it can be mounted to either side of the plane in either of two different ways.










The bevel and square fences can each attach to the left side of the plane at the 'T-Bolt,' with a range of motion (yes, each fence moves) limited by said bolt and a sliding depth gauge. The setting of the depth gauge determines depth of the groove OR the dimension of dovetail shoulder depending on the cut being made and fence(s) being used at the time.

*-Fence Arms*
The #444 ships with a pair of short rods (the manual quaintly refers to them as "Fence Arms"…) unique to this plane. Actually, I think the rods for a #46 skewed plough plane could work with the #444, but buying that plane for rods is crazy talk. This plane's rods have a diameter that is unique, as well as a thread count that is non-standard (even for Stanley, and they raised non-standard to an art form). If your #444 needs 'fence arms', contact the St. James Bay Tool Company and they'll make a pair.

There are two sets of holes in the body of the plane threaded to accept said rods (Upper and Lower holes), and it appears at this point the rods are only joined to the right side of the plane. "…the upper holes being used for small tongues and the lower for large," says Stanley. If I find cutting operations that benefit from left-placed fence arms, I'll pass it along.










Oh, and make sure the threaded portion of the rods you find (or have made) aren't too long, or they'll interfere with the sliding action of the square fence when cutting tails.










The protruding threads were addressed, btw.

*-Cutters*
Three irons (Stanley refers to them as cutters) shipped with the plane for cutting grooves and each is honed at a 7 ½ degree skew as marked on the original cutter box. Stanley suggests transferring the line from the cutter box to a bevel gauge (Figure 3), and in turn checking the cutters for proper skew at each sharpening as shown. The groove cutters are called small, medium and large.










There is a larger cutter that looks like a groove cutter but it isn't (and it hates it when you call it one, BTW). It's identified in the manual as a tongue cutter, and is used only for that operation, because an iron with a longer cutting edge is required, depending on the dovetail's depth.










Confused? Then I shouldn't mention the choice of groove cutter depends on the neck of the groove to be cut. Per the manual, 'Select the widest groove CUTTER which can easily pass through the neck." Sounds simple enough, right?

NOTE: All of this is befuddling, I realize. And I've pondered several ways of presenting these details so as avoid confusion. But it's somewhat difficult by nature, as any complex subject is. So while I'm toying with you a bit, it's to keep you entertained (hopefully) as the 'information baseline' is being set. So, let's move on!

*-Spurs and Spur Blocks*

If the Devil is in the detail, welcome to Satan Incarnate. If you've not gained a healthy disdain for spurs (otherwise known as nickers) on any of Stanley's other offerings to date, your patience is about to be tried. Four spurs are included with the plane as shipped: two on the body and one each on the two included spur blocks. Some have a retracted position; others have to be removed to get them out of the way. Here's a pic of the right body spur up and out of the way….










The spur on the left side of the plane is either used or not, and sets the left edge of grooves and tails. There are three spurs designed for action to the right of the main body of the plane, and are deployed to match up to the right side of the groove cutter being used (a right side spur is not needed when cutting tails). We'll sharpen spurs (yee-haw!) and take them through their paces later.

As noted on Blood and Gore, if you wear down these spurs through over sharpening (or weren't lucky enough to have them included with your purchase), that's bad news. The spurs of the #444 were otherwise only available on the #10 ¼ and #289, and you don't need to be buying those to scarf spurs. So make sure yours has them and sharpen carefully, okay?

A picture showing the #444 with cutters and spur blocks can be found at the bottom of this Post.

*-Other Unique Parts*
The picture below is provided (along with a few syllables) in an attempt to explain several parts of this plane that had me scratching my head at first.










The largest circle-shaped thing is the plane's T-Bolt. Either the BEVEL or the SQUARE FENCE can be affixed to the plane by sliding it over the T-Bolt. Just below and to the left of the T-Bolt, partially obscured, is the Slide Slot Stop Screw. Either fence is designed to travel up and down the left side of the plane; the Stop Screw limits the ability of either fence to spin around the T-Bolt. The thumbscrew in the picture threads into the sliding depth gauge, which limits the upward travel of the attached fence (in turn limiting the depth of cut… think about it…) And at the top of the 'bump' of the plane, see picture below, is the T-Bolt set screw. The head of this screw is set into the body of plane. Set the T-Bolt so there's not much slop in the travel of the fence, and tighten the set screw to keep it there.










Each fence should have its own sliding depth gauge. Alas, my fences have to share a single copy of said gauge, which is why you might see pics of a fence without a gauge. That said, if anyone out there has an extra sliding depth gauge in inventory, please contact me ASAP. 

I'm getting a bit ahead of myself here, because each of these parts will be presented again in the Fettling section of the next installment. But I did want to introduce them here.

*Wrap-Up of Part One!*
Well, that's a tour of the Stanley #444. We've covered its purpose and its parts, and added a few observations along the way. If you have one of these tools, you likely know these things. If you have one and didn't know much about it, you haven't used it and that's a shame. If you don't have one, you're likely confused but hopefully still interested in learning more. And that's what we'll continue with in Part Two: Set-up.










Sounds like fun, right? After fettling, we might actually cut wood. A whole installment dedicated to fettling? Yep. The #444 in this regard is a lot like its bench and joinery plane brethren: without 'doing' fettling, the plane simply will not work well (if at all). Much to be explored on this plane, then, but I've only laid out a three-part blog. Until next time, thanks for looking!

BONUS-

A short iMovie of the Stanley #444


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


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I want you to know I haven't read the whole thing. I want a #444 bad enough as it is. I'm not sure why, other than you make it sound so cool, yet challenging.


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## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


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can't wait for part 2


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


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Oh, come on Yoda! You have to read it, I went to all this trouble!


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


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oh … I will…. because I *will* own one.


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## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

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The pics look good Smitty. Got any newly made DT pics?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

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This from the Skill Building post a few days ago. First half of a dovetail pair of cuts.


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## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

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Adds a little visual interest vs the standard dado, for sure. Takes it to the next level.


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## iceman50 (Jan 9, 2013)

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Amazing! How did u get it? Did I miss a story on that?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

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I've talked about this plane in the Epic Thread off and on, but not much because it's been such a bugger…


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

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And the first successful joint…


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## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


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Classy. My PC dovetail jig has an option for this type of joint. While I admire their beauty, I respect their perceived difficulty, even with a routah.: (

Maybe someday.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


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That's awesome Smitty, good job!


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


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Intriguing Smit. A video is a must and will go a long way in helping me (us) conceptualize the triple 4.

Not the belittle your documentation and effort, but why is your #164 on the floor?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

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There will be a video. I haven't figured out what to show / how to film it yet, but I'm committed to doing one. But I have no idea what you're talking about re: the #164… (?)


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## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

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Dang…Scott with the keen observation.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


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Nice Smitty. In the groove!!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

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Here's one for sale on eBay now. The picture shows the Bevel Fence attached to the right of the plane, via the fence arms, but it's upside down. No operation I've found requires the bevel fence to be mounted this way.


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## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


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Looking forward to each installment.


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## LukieB (Jan 8, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


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Good stuff Smitty, looking forward to more, Thanks for sharing!


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


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Smitty, all joking aside, you're really adding to the knowledge base with this. I'm not sure this type of information is even available. But I'm still not paying $700 to keep up with you


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

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Wow, great info Smitty and way to fill the void on this plane. There is a lot to it for sure. Look forward to the rest of the series.


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


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Ok you know how I am about dovetails.
You know how I am about planes.
eleventh comandment
thou shalt not covet thy neighbors plane.
I sinned


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

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It's okay, Super!

I covet your video production skills.


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


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Ill give lesson for a small installment of handling your plane.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

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Deal, but you'll have to cross the Mason-Dixon line…


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

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Crap. Yall got grits?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

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There's a Waffle House not too far from here. Are their grits any good?


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


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is this the beginning of an abbott and costello skit?


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


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Im in route to see. Bring your plane, we will take about it over coffee and grits.
Done can come over to. He can bring one of them new fangleled planes he is making.
{Larry Curly and Mo}


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

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Movie clip added above. Rough form, I reserve the right to edit / revise at a later date, but wanted to get it out there.


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

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That was a wonderful video. Nice work there Smitty. I am impressed.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

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That was a wonderful video. Nice work there Smitty. I am impressed.

Ditto!!


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## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

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Yep, still want one! Great video Smitty.


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

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Thanks for the video, Smitty. Really helped bring together a bunch of the information.


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

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Cool video Smitty! You have that thing working like a champ!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

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Gentle Galoots, thank you for the collective nods.

I'd adjust the audio and a number of the transitions, and the pace may be a little rushed, but overall it's a decent intro to the tool. Started out just collecting shots, but an hour later is was essentially complete. The format of it also works for the next one, showing a groove cut. A third will be my Cosman: The 3-Minute Sliding Dovetail (or however long it takes once I get it down…)

Should be fun!


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


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"...why is your #164 on the floor?" - I cannot, for the life of me find that Easter egg.

Thank you for the lesson Smitty. I'm looking forward to the rest in this series, particularly the part where you get in a hurry and make a 3-minute sliding dovetail joint, that'll be good.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

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I have to watch that video of his again, to see how much setup was done 'off clock.' There's an iron change, two fences to switch around, and the right to depth when cutting the tongue. This has me thinking.


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


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You just do not strike me as the hurrying type. Eminently capable, yes. In a rush, no.

So regardless of the actual time spent making the joint, it will be the out character haste that will be the icing.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

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Having trouble finding the blue dovetail chart originally placed under the boxlid of the #444 when sold. P. Leach has one on his site but it's not legible. Getting a dovetail tongue and groove joint right with minimal trial and error hinges either on experience or that chart.

So if you're reading this and have said chart in .pdf form, pls send me a PM


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

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Thanks for the video Smitty.


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## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

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Tony, I think he changed the pics on us. Once Scott commented on how it was was on he floor, I noticed it. Then the pic was gone. Smitty must have not wanted us to know how he is treating that beauty. : )

He has so many awesome tools, that it was relegated to floor. Must be nice. Just sayin'...


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

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Shane wins the prize. I put it down there to mess with lysdexic, then laughed at the though of taking (and posting) a second pic after he noticed it. Yeah, Dirty tricks.


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## westevemssr (Mar 10, 2013)

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I have the basic body of a Stanley 444, but it is missing all the parts, and has some extra holes drilled in it to mount in a picture frame in a restaurant. When I saw it I talked the manager into letting me exchange a damaged wood rounding plane for the Stanley 444. I would like to find the missing pieces, or have some good photo's with a tape measure of them so I can make parts. I have even considered buying one and attempting to have some one cast the missing parts for me, or making a reproduction in brass. It will never happen now after my heart attack, but I can still wish can't I?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

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West, I'd love to see a couple pictures of your plane, although news of mounting holes is very sad indeed.

My example is missing a slotted depth gauge piece. I've considered having a copy made from the one I do have, as it's a real pain to swap it over when working with the tool. Pretty sure I won't like what it'd cost to make, though, so I haven't pursued it.

Good on you for saving what you did from a landfill, for sure. Good luck in your pursuit. And even though parts move during use (sliding fences for example), there are some pretty tight tolerances involved. And as you know, parts never become available…


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stanley-444-Dovetail-Plane-Manual-/271286657129?pt=UK_Collectable_ToolsHasdware_RL&hash=item3f29f1e069


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## Nikolay (Nov 27, 2014)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


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Thanks for the video.
Immediately after viewing bought Stanley 444


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

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Congrats, Nikolay! Post some pics when you get a chance, I'd love to have a look!


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## Nikolay (Nov 27, 2014)

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I got my Stanley 444 of the US in excellent sostoyanii.Ego surface idealno.Ne need to to level the surface
I can shave when it is warm.
I will lay out his photo work.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

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Updated OP to delete all PhotoCHUMBucket images and replace them with LJ-hosted pics. Smitty.


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## westevemssr (Mar 10, 2013)

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I purchased a 444 body, but have never found the other parts. My son does brass casting, and I had hoped to find someone that had a complete dovetail plane I could use for making a mold to cast the missing parts. At my current age, it is just to much trouble so I should sell my body to someone that has a damaged body that needs to be replaced. I loved your article and video. Thanks for posting it.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*

This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.

*Fettling a #444*
If hand planes are part of your tool arsenal, fettling has probably become a part of your shop routine and vocabulary. Loosely defined, to fettle a plane (or any tool for that matter) is to make it ready for action with optimal effectiveness. Aside from setting and honing the primary bevel of the plane's iron, fettling may include lapping the sole, polishing the backside of the cutting iron, polishing the lead edge of the chipbreaker and lever cap, and in the case of shoulder and rabbet planes, squaring the sole to the side(s) of the plane.

Fettling the #444 dovetail is similar to what may be required for a high end smoother or shoot board plane, for example, but different. Here's what I did to optimize (in my case, enable) performance.

My plane, unlike many out there in #444-land, is worse for wear. There's patina around the front horn from being gripped in the same place, over and over, through years of use. Same with the handle area.



















This plane has been used, and I'm more than happy to see that. So while your dovetail plane (i.e.: Beast) may be a collector's piece, mine is not. My initial attempts at cutting grooves were essentially failures, as were a couple of tails I tried to cut. And once I had some time to think about it, it became clear that I was expecting this very complex plane to work 'out of the box,' without any fettling. What was I thinking? Typical karma involves serious aggravation to do this simplest of tasks, so why would this plane be the exception? So, in the name of getting the Beast to perform at its best, I decided to pull every trick in the book to ensure every machined area was aligned, sharpened or flattened as required. And that's the first part of this installment.

WARNING: Am I advocating everyone take the following steps to put their collector-status dovetail plane to use? No. Actions taken on my plane, particularly lapping the sides, have likely impacted the plane's value to a collector so you may not want to do this to yours in the name of performance. Some examples shouldn't be used at all. And besides, your plane may work fine without taking these steps. With all disclaimers out of the way, let's move on.

*-Lap Sides of Plane*
The sole of the plane is set at a 20 degree bevel to it's sides, so it can't be squared like a shoulder plane. It can, on the other hand, not have sides that are flat; especially in front of the iron and around the spur areas. Am I worried about the loss of nickel plate? Nope. This plane will continue to be a user, so let's treat her like one.
I worked one side, then the other. Neither side registered fully to the fine DMT without a few minutes' work. There's a bit of pucker behind the iron on the left side, but that's not an area I need to worry about. Overall it took about 10 minutes to get both sides in line.










Now the sole can travel in grooves of its own creation and have a clear, consistent cutting path to follow with each pass.

*-Lap Sole w/ Spur Block(s)*

The spur blocks are different 'thicknesses' to support different sizes of cutting irons. The sole of the plane was lapped flat with one block in place, then again with the second one in place. Here's a before and after:




























I'm glad I chose to lap first with the wider of the two blocks, as it helped register the sole to the diamond plate more fully, at the correct angle, more so than the narrower spur block. Oh, and make sure the spurs are retracted before pulling this trick, or there'll be a #10 ¼ in your future.

*-Lap Fences*

My Bevel Fence has a weld area and a crack. Always a good idea to lap repaired cast iron. The Square Fence got lapped so it wouldn't feel left out.

*-Sharpen / hone spurs*

Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, it could cut grooves with side walls what were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product told me a sharpening of spurs and irons (along with lapping the sides) was in order. The spurs received attention first.










A little work on the fine DMT showed it wasn't flat on the outer surface of either of the two nickers. I don't want to remove a ton of material here; the outer surface of each spur needs to be coplanar with the side(s) of the main bod of the tool. That said, I want them flat to fully register to the sidewalls of each cut. We're talking micro-thous though, right? Anyway, this operation will be completed only once.



















I then carefully worked the primary bevels of each spur on the fine DMT. They've got a 'camber' to them that appear original, as each of them (included the right-side, stowed spur) but I'm not certain. Either way, do not remove more material than necessary to get an edge.










Half-dozen swipes on the strop and the edges were sharp and looking good. The spurs are now the shiniest parts on the plane.



















*-Spur-to-Cutter Alignment*

To get this right, I stripped all the accessory parts from the main body of the #444 and used it as a kind of skewed shoulder plane.



















I made a start line with my marking knife and pushed the corner of the plane along the line without issue. Well, there was a bit of an issue, and that's when I thought of the #278 and how the iron on that plane needs to be aligned with its machined, outer face. So I released the plane's grip on the iron, bumped left to get it aligned with the left face of the plane (where the spur aligns too, significantly) and there was a big (positive) impact on the end result.




























I think I've got it!

*-Setting the T-Bolt*

This fat-headed bolt is somewhat of an anomaly, as I don't recall seeing or reading about a similar appendage on any other Stanley plane. The #48 and #49 planes have fences that spin, for example, but fences that slide up and down over a center key (or T-Bolt) are simply weird. And the job of the T-Bolt is to capture the fence in use securely without binding it completely. That it can vary means it can be optimally set. No guidance out there, so the path I set is total conjecture on my part. Here's the front and back sides of the T-Bolt.










The question is, how sloppy or tight to set the travel of the fence(s)? That's input I'd like to have from someone in the know, but as of yet they've not spoken up. So I'll opt for 'less slop is better, but it has move freely.' So that's the setting I've found for the T-Bolt on my plane. Easy up-and-down, with as much lateral pivot taken out as possible.
And I can't move on from the T-Bolt without addressing the small, slotted set screw atop the main body of the plane, over the T-Bolt.










We talked about the set screw in Part 1, and now it comes into play. When you've got the T-Bolt where you want it, drive the set screw in to set the T-Bolt and you're done! Except when you change fences, of course, as you'll have to do to cut a single, complete sliding dovetail joint…

*-Setting the Sliding Depth Gauge*

Either fence is fitted with a sliding depth gauge that serves as a depth stop more than anything. Once attached to the plane's main body via the T-Bolt, each fence rides said bolt up and down, in an elongated slot bounded on top by the fence itself. The other end of slot is closed up by the sliding depth gauge.










While the #78 has a fixed depth stop, The Beast relies on fences to both align the angle of the plane (and cut) while also serving as depth-of-cut regulators thanks to this gauge. Front-to-back movement is eliminated by the Slide Slot Stop Screw, shown here as the small slotted screw set under the T-Bolt. With the bevel fence set to the T-Bolt, set the depth gauge to establish depth of a groove. With the square fence joined to the T-bolt, shoulder depth of a tail is being set.

Graduations along each fence's T-Bolt slot are used for reference, to ensure consistency. The following graphic was affixed to the underside of the #444's chestnut box to set dovetail pin and groove measurements.










Here's one that is clearer but is also (likely) a three-folded sheet that was put inside the plane's box in later production runs. I have this one in hi-res (file size exceeds 7MB) thanks to a friend on the Old Tools mail list.










There is a lot to discuss re: neck widths and groove depth, but that's in Part 3.

*Layout*

We are cutting dovetails, so it should come as no surprise that this plane again begs the question as to which comes first: Tails or Pins? Well, the pins are technically grooves in this exercise, but you know what I mean. I'm a tails-first guy, so I'm happy to say the #444 also requires pins be cut first. But I can't, because Stanley instructs us to begin with the groove. And I can see benefit to that approach that isn't presented in the manual. Let's begin with an assertion: Tails are easier to produce with this plane than grooves. It's not just me that says it, either. I found one Galoot in the Old Tools archive that reached the same conclusion is 2007; how's that for consensus?

*-Grooves*
The layout of a sliding dovetail joint, then, follows the path set by the Stanley Rule and Level Company: cut grooves first. Then the matching tails can be cut and adjusted pretty easily to match those grooves. Rats. Pins win this time…
To cut a groove means choosing the proper iron, and the manual helps here with the following:










The groove irons are 'small, medium and large,' and the tail iron is the largest one overall. So remember that for later. How to cut a groove, then, with the Beast? It begins with choosing which iron to use, and that is determined by the size of the groove. Stanley Works has it right in the manual to the point that I can't suggest changes to their core message on cutters and spurs. For grooves, "Select the widest groove CUTTER which can easily pass through the neck… If the cutter is wider than the Main Stock (of the plane), turn back the right hand SPUR [and] attach the SPUR BLOCK which will give a spur for the outer edge of the cutter." So Stanley suggests spurs at either side of the cutter, with the sole of the plane supplemented by spur blocks until its width matches that of the cutter.










And remember to set the iron so the smallest of shavings is taken. Heavy is not good with a combination plane, and it's not optimal here, either. Especially when grooving cross-grain. This is a little heavy, but is effective.










Groove cutting requires knife lines, measurements and battens (additional layout detail) that will be covered in Part 3.

*-Tongues*
Cutting a tongue requires the left (main body) spur be deployed while any spur to the right (main body or either of the two block spurs) be retracted. The distance of the bevel fence from the plane's body cuts a tongue that has to match the groove's depth. And the video in part one shows the cutting of a tongue so I won't go into additional detail here.

*-Workholding - Grooves and Tails*
The last topic for today is workholding when using the #444, and I bring it up because it's not obvious. In the part one video, stuff being tongued was clamped in an end vise. That's fine, but not workable if I were cutting stock wider than my vise could extend (which is likely; my end vise has an effective range of around ten inches…) And if I wanted to create grooves for this dovetail assy,










the end vise approach just won't work. I don't have answers lined up to share at this point, just questions. An idea for cutting grooves across multiple boards would be a planing sled, but I haven't made one to try it. For longer stock, maybe a couple bench hooks? And cutting a groove longways likely requires some kind of sticking board, as many joinery operations require. I'll post those types of ideas / solutions when I come up with them, but it's outside the scope of these three parts, though.

That's all for now, and thanks for looking!

EDIT: Here's a link to the trailer video, in advance of Installment 3.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


Stanley called. They will be reproducing the #444. They want you to write the manual.

well done.


----------



## BrandonW (Apr 27, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


Nice, Smitty. I'm really enjoying this blog series. Very few people own #444s but only a very small percentage of them actually use them. Kudos to you for giving an old plane new life.


----------



## jap (Oct 10, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


nice write-up


----------



## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


I appreciate your efforts as well Smitty, thank you.


----------



## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


You have a nice workbench, with plenty of possibilities.
If it doesn't work, here are some alternative work holding methods from Paul Sellers:
http://paulsellers.com/2013/03/the-paul-sellers-vise-clamp-system-or/


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


Excellent ideas there, Sylvain, thanks for posting that link. Gotta love Paul Sellers and his motivations.

For the rest of the comments above, thanks for the input. What's documented so far is nowhere near expertise, just knowledge. The longer I mess with this tool, the more I realize what true 'expertise' would be. Until I get to that level, this tool is more hassle than it's worth as a user.


----------



## kenn (Mar 19, 2008)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


If you are not the leading expert in the world on this plane, who could it be? And if two gallons agree on any issue, it must be true.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


"If two Galoots agree on any issue, it must be true."

But getting Galoots to agree on anything is the problem. 

The challenge for Part 3 is to complete a dovetail joint 'off the saw,' and for that I'm going to concentrate on making the cuts to fit 3/4" stock together…


----------



## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


If two galoots is an agreement then three must be a conspiricy! So this 444 thing is really a plot to confuse the masses or a least me.
Nice work Smitty !


----------



## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


Great stuff Smitty.

Do you think you can tackle a tapered sliding dovetail with The Breast?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


Thanks.

Yes.


----------



## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


Ha!

I typed Breast. :^)


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


Wow Smitty this is a complicated design and it looks as you are getting a grip on the setup and operation. Well done.


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


"Breast" LOL.

Smitty you are doing a great service here for the greater WW community man.

My question was going to be what you thought about the 444 vs. just cutting it with a saw but I see that you are planning on looking at that in post #3. Cant wait!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


Maur, just for grins I googled "Stanley #444 dovetail" over the weekend. Parts 1 and 2 of this blog series came up first and second in the list of results. That's how little info there is on this plane out there on the interweb. Whether I'd call playing with this tool a 'service' or not is debatable, though.


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


Something is better than nothing. And what you have done here is much, much, more than just a little something!


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


Thank you for the wealth of information Smitty. You never cease to amaze.

Your photo documentation is amazing, did you gunk-up your camera when capturing the photos of the lapping/sharpening?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


Tony - I think you're seeing water on the DMT.

Thanks, buddy!


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


I was just thinking my hands would have been filthy from the swarf (particularly with the work on the spurs) and i would have got that on the camera as i tried to capture the picture. And was in wonderment as to how you could avoid it.

I wasn't implying that any of your photos looked as though something was on the lens; to the contrary they are all the stunning quality that i take for grated will come from your shop. Great stuff, thanks again.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


Oh, I get the question now. No 'implication' taken at all, no problem!



I just dried my hands with a rag and took the picture, I think.

The thing that goes through my mind with shop pics is the immediate subject, or object, of the photo. So many pics include a wide field, and that just doesn't present what the words are wanting to convey. So I get close. Maybe too close, but then if I go too far the phone won't autofocus.

And I try to be consistent in the angles I shoot when pics are part of a single blog or series of actions.

Then I'll throw a low angle jack or smoother in the background sometimes, just to mess with ScottyB Yo!


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


So presence of mind and shenanigans see you through? Got it.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


Progress towards Part 3 tonight!


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


Nice!


----------



## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


how many attempts?


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


^Pffttt! One.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


^ That joint was 'straight off the saw,' as they say. Pulled the batten from the groove boards and worked the tongue into the groove. It needed persuation in the form of mallet and block (fit is quite snug) but that's the fit.


----------



## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


My eye scans for the smoke and mirrors.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


Sorry, buddy, but no trickery this time. The Beast does indeed work.


----------



## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


All hail THE BEAST!, you too Smitty!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


I appreciate it Kevin, but I'll duck the praise. Just a Galoot with a Toy. Seriously. I've learned so much from folks on this site, it's nice to find an area where info is otherwise thin and fill the void.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


Nice! Looks fun.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


I like, it's a challenge.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


You ain't planing until you wax up!


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


Oh wow Smitty did you make a dado jig for lining that thing up and reducing spelching?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


Batten is required to cut a groove with this plane, and that's in the pic. There are donor strips front and back for spelching, you are very right!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


Material is being prepped for Part 3 pics and video.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


I love it when my favorite show is on for another season.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


This is crazy. I spent money for material to use for a video to post on Lumberjocks… I need help…


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


And we love you for it Smitty!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


I've not had 'paid for' pine before. ;-)


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


You'll need a tip jar.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


It's actually kinda nice having flat boards without nails or nail holes, or rot, or live edges, or…


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


Don I think an old Stanley box turned upside down.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


Did Stanley make a SW jar?


----------



## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


That's a good one Don. Clever.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


I'm seriously jealous.
What a fine job you do there making it work.
It really seems like you got it.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


Updated the OP to eliminate PhotoCHUMBucket errors with pics. Enjoy.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


Regarding *Spur to Cutter Alignment* above…

(Trying to paste content, stand by)


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


Okay, try again regarding *Spur-to-Cutter Alignment*...



> Well, I was careless and learned something today. I try not to be careless.
> 
> I'm working with QSWO which is nearly as hard and heavy as osage orange. I designed this project to use some sliding dovetails. I was all prepared to use a utility knife to score and clean out the corner that I've been having trouble with because the [spur on the 444] didn t seem to be doing the job. I started the first stroke at the far side to establish the first score, and took the first pass. The corner was sharp. Second pass the chips were not cut off until I drew the plane backwards and it cut them cleanly. So each stroke I dragged the plane backwards and the [spur] cut cleanly every time. In six round trips I was at full depth cross grain in QSWO! There were several ends to do so I was careful to keep the same technique and it worked perfectly. Now I m wondering, given the tendency for these [spurs] to retreat into the body skate on the push stroke, if they weren't designed to cut on the pull stroke. It sure seemed that way today.
> 
> DanK


This tells me the spurs on the No. 444 are always in play, either in push or pull mode, to cut clean shoulders and corners. To me, this again answers to the Schwarz' 'sharp fixes everything.' Dan knows sharp, and I'm certain his spurs are ready to work, and by letting them cut on the pull they did what spurs do.

The last piece of the puzzle is controlling the plane. it's gotta be held tight tot he wall of the cut to keep the spur tracks cutting a uniform / solid sidewall.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


Upping my sharpening game to get the dead-nuts-correct angle on my #444 cutters.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


Hmm. Didn't see that coming.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


This is what I was after. The narrowest cutter needed skew tuning, then lets me check fettle by using the body of the plane like a shoulder plane to make dados (seen above with larger cutter).










See the cutter just barely protruding from the sole? And evenly, too.


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


That's so cool!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


So with the narrow cutter tuned and ready, I've been wanting to take things to the next level and actually complete all the steps of completing a dovetail tongue and groove joint. Start with a knife line and a batten to cut the initial groove.










Side walls look great!










Flip the board, set a second batten, and finish cutting the groove.



















Flip the bevel fence around, add the fence arms and square fence to cut the tongue, and the joint is complete.



















Might be one of the better examples I've cut with the Beast!


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


Damn fine results! And quicker than most other methods? Now with more familiarity, is the fettling/setup prohibitive?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


Tony, I've located the text of Installment #3 of this series (and Man, did I write a bunch) with the intent of completing it and posting to LJs in the coming weeks. So I'll add your question as one to address and leave it as a teaser!


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Set-up & Link to Video Trailer*
> 
> This second installment of the #444 mini-series details the set-up required to use the Stanley Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane and concludes with the layout of joints to be cut.
> 
> ...


Thank you Sir.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*A Critical Piece of the Puzzle is In Place!*

The Stanley #444 included a 'blueprint' inside the chestnut boxlid that detailed the anatomy of dovetail depth, neck and shoulder measurements based on common stock sizes. Versions I'd been able to track down were unreadable.










But thanks to the OldTools list and Matt Turner, I have a version of these drawings that was supposedly put inside the plane's box in it's later sales window. The outside of the three-fold:










And the inside:










This data lets me set these measurements and get (hopefully) repeatable results with less trial and error. The final installment of the #444 video series is, at long last, at hand….










EDIT: If you scroll back to the previous installments and get a goofy square in the place of pics, blame PhotoBucket. Stupid limit on bandwith has my pics here shut down 'til the middle of October. Grrr…


----------



## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Critical Piece of the Puzzle is In Place!*
> 
> The Stanley #444 included a 'blueprint' inside the chestnut boxlid that detailed the anatomy of dovetail depth, neck and shoulder measurements based on common stock sizes. Versions I'd been able to track down were unreadable.
> 
> ...


Just in time to inaugurate the new video functionality at LJ's Tah Dah! Smitty, an outstanding series on a much lesser know, albeit expensive, piece of woodworking arcana. One of these days I WILL have one of them. and a 46. and a 55. and a …...


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Critical Piece of the Puzzle is In Place!*
> 
> The Stanley #444 included a 'blueprint' inside the chestnut boxlid that detailed the anatomy of dovetail depth, neck and shoulder measurements based on common stock sizes. Versions I'd been able to track down were unreadable.
> 
> ...


There's new video functionality? I didn't know, have to read up on that one! Thanks, Kevin. Maybe the next series will be on the #196 curved rabbet plane…
.
.
.
.
Nah….


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Critical Piece of the Puzzle is In Place!*
> 
> The Stanley #444 included a 'blueprint' inside the chestnut boxlid that detailed the anatomy of dovetail depth, neck and shoulder measurements based on common stock sizes. Versions I'd been able to track down were unreadable.
> 
> ...


the biggest problem with the 444…...I don't have one!!


----------



## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Critical Piece of the Puzzle is In Place!*
> 
> The Stanley #444 included a 'blueprint' inside the chestnut boxlid that detailed the anatomy of dovetail depth, neck and shoulder measurements based on common stock sizes. Versions I'd been able to track down were unreadable.
> 
> ...


You got one of dem?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Critical Piece of the Puzzle is In Place!*
> 
> The Stanley #444 included a 'blueprint' inside the chestnut boxlid that detailed the anatomy of dovetail depth, neck and shoulder measurements based on common stock sizes. Versions I'd been able to track down were unreadable.
> 
> ...


Nope. Was asked once if I was interested though. Does that count?


----------



## Airframer (Jan 19, 2013)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Critical Piece of the Puzzle is In Place!*
> 
> The Stanley #444 included a 'blueprint' inside the chestnut boxlid that detailed the anatomy of dovetail depth, neck and shoulder measurements based on common stock sizes. Versions I'd been able to track down were unreadable.
> 
> ...


I officially need one of those!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Critical Piece of the Puzzle is In Place!*
> 
> The Stanley #444 included a 'blueprint' inside the chestnut boxlid that detailed the anatomy of dovetail depth, neck and shoulder measurements based on common stock sizes. Versions I'd been able to track down were unreadable.
> 
> ...


Get one, then show us how it works! I've never aspired to make round / oval frames that needed rabbets, but I could be coerced…


----------



## Airframer (Jan 19, 2013)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Critical Piece of the Puzzle is In Place!*
> 
> The Stanley #444 included a 'blueprint' inside the chestnut boxlid that detailed the anatomy of dovetail depth, neck and shoulder measurements based on common stock sizes. Versions I'd been able to track down were unreadable.
> 
> ...


Well, I was talking about the 444 but now that you mention it that other one would be fun too lol…. what's the lottery up to this week?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Critical Piece of the Puzzle is In Place!*
> 
> The Stanley #444 included a 'blueprint' inside the chestnut boxlid that detailed the anatomy of dovetail depth, neck and shoulder measurements based on common stock sizes. Versions I'd been able to track down were unreadable.
> 
> ...


Blood and Gore as this to say re: the #196:

"...[the #196 is] too valuable to use, but if you have more money than brains, and want to use this contraption, you'll find it a funky beast"

Sounds like my kind of challenge. lol


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Critical Piece of the Puzzle is In Place!*
> 
> The Stanley #444 included a 'blueprint' inside the chestnut boxlid that detailed the anatomy of dovetail depth, neck and shoulder measurements based on common stock sizes. Versions I'd been able to track down were unreadable.
> 
> ...


Blood and Gore as this to say re: the #444:

"Hah! I defy you to use this plane without drawing puss or blood!"

Congrats, Smitty!  What an awesome looking tool…


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Critical Piece of the Puzzle is In Place!*
> 
> The Stanley #444 included a 'blueprint' inside the chestnut boxlid that detailed the anatomy of dovetail depth, neck and shoulder measurements based on common stock sizes. Versions I'd been able to track down were unreadable.
> 
> ...


Terry, I've had it a while. Guess it speaks to how long the video has been in the offing that you guys didn't know…

Here's a link to the trailer video, in advance of the final video of the series…


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Critical Piece of the Puzzle is In Place!*
> 
> The Stanley #444 included a 'blueprint' inside the chestnut boxlid that detailed the anatomy of dovetail depth, neck and shoulder measurements based on common stock sizes. Versions I'd been able to track down were unreadable.
> 
> ...


Happy to hear that pieces are falling into place.

New video functionality?


----------



## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Critical Piece of the Puzzle is In Place!*
> 
> The Stanley #444 included a 'blueprint' inside the chestnut boxlid that detailed the anatomy of dovetail depth, neck and shoulder measurements based on common stock sizes. Versions I'd been able to track down were unreadable.
> 
> ...


I was being a tad sarcastic on the video thing i guess.


----------



## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Critical Piece of the Puzzle is In Place!*
> 
> The Stanley #444 included a 'blueprint' inside the chestnut boxlid that detailed the anatomy of dovetail depth, neck and shoulder measurements based on common stock sizes. Versions I'd been able to track down were unreadable.
> 
> ...


LOL. I looked…


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Critical Piece of the Puzzle is In Place!*
> 
> The Stanley #444 included a 'blueprint' inside the chestnut boxlid that detailed the anatomy of dovetail depth, neck and shoulder measurements based on common stock sizes. Versions I'd been able to track down were unreadable.
> 
> ...


Looks like a great and rare plane Smitty. One thing I find interesting is the depth of the dovetails in your chart. I have an old book on routing which is made up of routing articles from FWW mag. In one of the articles there is a professional cabinet maker who uses sliding dovetails to join his cabinet panels together. He does this to eliminate the need for clamping. He makes his dovetails only 1/8" deep. He claims that this is more than strong enough and maybe even stronger than deep dovetails since it is so shallow and therefore doesn't take much of the thickness of the panels thereby weakening them. He has been doing this for many years. I am thinking that the dovetail plane would be extremely useful to make shallow dovetails as the work would go very fast. He was probably using most ply panels, so I'm not sure if the same principles can be applied to solid woods. It would be interesting to test the difference of strength in solid woods with different depth dovetails.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Critical Piece of the Puzzle is In Place!*
> 
> The Stanley #444 included a 'blueprint' inside the chestnut boxlid that detailed the anatomy of dovetail depth, neck and shoulder measurements based on common stock sizes. Versions I'd been able to track down were unreadable.
> 
> ...


Mike, wow. 1/8" grooves for these sure doesn't seem like much.

I certainly agree there's such a thing as taking too much material from the carcase sides; it's something that's not considered in Stanley's graphics above. Rule of thumb is slightly less than half the thickness, rounded down, is the max, right? So 3/4" sides could max be 3/8" thick or so.

Yes, cutting the grooves goes pretty quick with the #444. Getting the tongues to match 'off the saw,' to mis-use an expression, is somewhat of a trick.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Critical Piece of the Puzzle is In Place!*
> 
> The Stanley #444 included a 'blueprint' inside the chestnut boxlid that detailed the anatomy of dovetail depth, neck and shoulder measurements based on common stock sizes. Versions I'd been able to track down were unreadable.
> 
> ...


You are the best resource for this plane Smitty. Keep learning and posting so others will have your reference to use. Great work.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Critical Piece of the Puzzle is In Place!*
> 
> The Stanley #444 included a 'blueprint' inside the chestnut boxlid that detailed the anatomy of dovetail depth, neck and shoulder measurements based on common stock sizes. Versions I'd been able to track down were unreadable.
> 
> ...


Dave, thanks. Of course, it helps that I'm pretty much the only resource on this particular plane. lol


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Critical Piece of the Puzzle is In Place!*
> 
> The Stanley #444 included a 'blueprint' inside the chestnut boxlid that detailed the anatomy of dovetail depth, neck and shoulder measurements based on common stock sizes. Versions I'd been able to track down were unreadable.
> 
> ...


More detail arrived recently. A picture box for the #444…










And an Inside Lid Picture!


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Critical Piece of the Puzzle is In Place!*
> 
> The Stanley #444 included a 'blueprint' inside the chestnut boxlid that detailed the anatomy of dovetail depth, neck and shoulder measurements based on common stock sizes. Versions I'd been able to track down were unreadable.
> 
> ...


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Critical Piece of the Puzzle is In Place!*
> 
> The Stanley #444 included a 'blueprint' inside the chestnut boxlid that detailed the anatomy of dovetail depth, neck and shoulder measurements based on common stock sizes. Versions I'd been able to track down were unreadable.
> 
> ...


This year's #444 indulgence:










Yet to locate an original instruction book, but this is where we are:


----------



## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Critical Piece of the Puzzle is In Place!*
> 
> The Stanley #444 included a 'blueprint' inside the chestnut boxlid that detailed the anatomy of dovetail depth, neck and shoulder measurements based on common stock sizes. Versions I'd been able to track down were unreadable.
> 
> ...


Aw, comon' Smitty, that just ain't fair. Kinda like that " ya can look but don't touch" teaser!


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Critical Piece of the Puzzle is In Place!*
> 
> The Stanley #444 included a 'blueprint' inside the chestnut boxlid that detailed the anatomy of dovetail depth, neck and shoulder measurements based on common stock sizes. Versions I'd been able to track down were unreadable.
> 
> ...


Very cool.


----------



## cjwillie (Sep 6, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Critical Piece of the Puzzle is In Place!*
> 
> The Stanley #444 included a 'blueprint' inside the chestnut boxlid that detailed the anatomy of dovetail depth, neck and shoulder measurements based on common stock sizes. Versions I'd been able to track down were unreadable.
> 
> ...


I was not familiar with a #444. I received an auction notice today with a#444 listed. The one pictured was missing most of it's parts. Looks like I can pass on that auction. Thanks for posting this!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Critical Piece of the Puzzle is In Place!*
> 
> The Stanley #444 included a 'blueprint' inside the chestnut boxlid that detailed the anatomy of dovetail depth, neck and shoulder measurements based on common stock sizes. Versions I'd been able to track down were unreadable.
> 
> ...


Willie, feel free to check the videos in previous posts of this seriesfor more on the tool. Thanks for looking!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Critical Piece of the Puzzle is In Place!*
> 
> The Stanley #444 included a 'blueprint' inside the chestnut boxlid that detailed the anatomy of dovetail depth, neck and shoulder measurements based on common stock sizes. Versions I'd been able to track down were unreadable.
> 
> ...


It is alive…


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Critical Piece of the Puzzle is In Place!*
> 
> The Stanley #444 included a 'blueprint' inside the chestnut boxlid that detailed the anatomy of dovetail depth, neck and shoulder measurements based on common stock sizes. Versions I'd been able to track down were unreadable.
> 
> ...


As evidenced here. Blog


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Critical Piece of the Puzzle is In Place!*
> 
> The Stanley #444 included a 'blueprint' inside the chestnut boxlid that detailed the anatomy of dovetail depth, neck and shoulder measurements based on common stock sizes. Versions I'd been able to track down were unreadable.
> 
> ...


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Critical Piece of the Puzzle is In Place!*
> 
> The Stanley #444 included a 'blueprint' inside the chestnut boxlid that detailed the anatomy of dovetail depth, neck and shoulder measurements based on common stock sizes. Versions I'd been able to track down were unreadable.
> 
> ...


Ha! Saw bearings, of course.


----------



## 7davenj88 (Feb 14, 2018)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Critical Piece of the Puzzle is In Place!*
> 
> The Stanley #444 included a 'blueprint' inside the chestnut boxlid that detailed the anatomy of dovetail depth, neck and shoulder measurements based on common stock sizes. Versions I'd been able to track down were unreadable.
> 
> ...


Smitty,

I would like to get a copy of the high resolution picture showing the Stanley No. 444 dovetail detail dimensions for various thicknesses of wood. You mentioned it in your Lumberjack's 3-part discussion on the Stanley 444. If you could send it to [email protected] I would greatly appreciate it. I have recently acquired a Stanley 444 and I am trying to figure out how to set it up. I have seen various low resolution versions of the diagram online but none are readable.


----------



## DanKrager (Apr 13, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Critical Piece of the Puzzle is In Place!*
> 
> The Stanley #444 included a 'blueprint' inside the chestnut boxlid that detailed the anatomy of dovetail depth, neck and shoulder measurements based on common stock sizes. Versions I'd been able to track down were unreadable.
> 
> ...


From my experience with this 444, I can testify that in solid wood, shallow sliding dovetails (like the 1/8" Stefang referred to) are exceptionally strong. Used that size to assemble an heirloom family tree book from Sycamore. In plywood, the strength of the joint rests upon the strength of the laminations, which in modern stuff is almost nil. But I concur with sliding dovetails eliminating clamps, and since plywood cases tend not to stress the cross member joints too much I wouldn't hesitate, but I'd be inclined towards 1/4" depth as a minimum.










I love the way sliding dovetails can lock things together mechanically, even before glue is applied. The sides of this wooded book box were attached to the covers with 1/8" deep x 1/4" sliding dovetails. The cross grain members are free to move.
DanK


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*A Series of Pictures*

Not a detailed narrative of the kind featured in Blogs 1 and 2 of this series, but rather a set of photos from 2016 that I wanted to put into a stand alone entry vs. having to search for it as I did today.

*Workholding Example - Dovetail Cuts*









*Wood Fence added to Bevel Fence to facilitate smaller Depth Cuts*









*Dovetail Tongue Cuts Completed*









*Assembled Joint*









I reserve the right to revisit this entry and expand / expound at a later date, particularly with regards to wooden fence extension. Thanks for looking!


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Series of Pictures*
> 
> Not a detailed narrative of the kind featured in Blogs 1 and 2 of this series, but rather a set of photos from 2016 that I wanted to put into a stand alone entry vs. having to search for it as I did today.
> 
> ...


The revision clause was an astute decision in my opinion.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Series of Pictures*
> 
> Not a detailed narrative of the kind featured in Blogs 1 and 2 of this series, but rather a set of photos from 2016 that I wanted to put into a stand alone entry vs. having to search for it as I did today.
> 
> ...


Thanks Tony, and it will be expanded. Once I get some sharpening done on these cutters, as the smallest seems to have lost it's proper bevel shape and won't cut worth a cr*p, I have a necessary 'how-to' installment to do. And the fence extension gets in the way of groove cuts and that needs to be explained.


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Series of Pictures*
> 
> Not a detailed narrative of the kind featured in Blogs 1 and 2 of this series, but rather a set of photos from 2016 that I wanted to put into a stand alone entry vs. having to search for it as I did today.
> 
> ...


Now that any legal ramification resulting from the blog entry expansion has been averted, it will be nice to sit back and savor your #444 machinations.

Your efforts are always appreciated and enjoyed, thank you sir.


----------



## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Series of Pictures*
> 
> Not a detailed narrative of the kind featured in Blogs 1 and 2 of this series, but rather a set of photos from 2016 that I wanted to put into a stand alone entry vs. having to search for it as I did today.
> 
> ...


A contrary opinion on disclaimers. You are a craftsman and a skilled one at that. You don't need disclaimers. I haven't seen many other posts on using the 444 so when exploring new country anything goes! Keep the enlightenment of the masses going, this member of the masses likes it. 

JMTCW


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Series of Pictures*
> 
> Not a detailed narrative of the kind featured in Blogs 1 and 2 of this series, but rather a set of photos from 2016 that I wanted to put into a stand alone entry vs. having to search for it as I did today.
> 
> ...


A picture may be worth a hundred words (or something like that) but at times pictures need words. That's where I'm coming from, just didn't want anyone thinking 'what the heck am I looking at? what a worthless post.'

Of course, if they want to think that, they will.


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Series of Pictures*
> 
> Not a detailed narrative of the kind featured in Blogs 1 and 2 of this series, but rather a set of photos from 2016 that I wanted to put into a stand alone entry vs. having to search for it as I did today.
> 
> ...


Hopefully my sarcasm, chop-busting, and a$$-hatness was not veiled.

Smitty, at this point you are proven enough to have creative license and masterful enough to be impervious to the opinions of the weak minded.


----------



## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Series of Pictures*
> 
> Not a detailed narrative of the kind featured in Blogs 1 and 2 of this series, but rather a set of photos from 2016 that I wanted to put into a stand alone entry vs. having to search for it as I did today.
> 
> ...


Not aimed at you Tony, just plugging a friend.

I also value your "sarcasm, chop-busting, and a$$-hatness"! Keep it up.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Series of Pictures*
> 
> Not a detailed narrative of the kind featured in Blogs 1 and 2 of this series, but rather a set of photos from 2016 that I wanted to put into a stand alone entry vs. having to search for it as I did today.
> 
> ...


I'm just going to continue to live vicariously through you until I find my $15 flea market #444.


----------



## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Series of Pictures*
> 
> Not a detailed narrative of the kind featured in Blogs 1 and 2 of this series, but rather a set of photos from 2016 that I wanted to put into a stand alone entry vs. having to search for it as I did today.
> 
> ...


Don, if you can do that I think the earth will stand still.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Series of Pictures*
> 
> Not a detailed narrative of the kind featured in Blogs 1 and 2 of this series, but rather a set of photos from 2016 that I wanted to put into a stand alone entry vs. having to search for it as I did today.
> 
> ...


Remember LJ walden's yard sale find, a Stanley No. 9 mitre plane for $45?


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## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Series of Pictures*
> 
> Not a detailed narrative of the kind featured in Blogs 1 and 2 of this series, but rather a set of photos from 2016 that I wanted to put into a stand alone entry vs. having to search for it as I did today.
> 
> ...


Yea, I think that should have been me!

Edit: Come to think of it, didn't someone here come up with a 72 with the beading attachment for peanuts a few years ago?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Series of Pictures*
> 
> Not a detailed narrative of the kind featured in Blogs 1 and 2 of this series, but rather a set of photos from 2016 that I wanted to put into a stand alone entry vs. having to search for it as I did today.
> 
> ...


I remember a No. 72, but that one didn't have the beading kit. Sounds like it shoulda been me, though.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Series of Pictures*
> 
> Not a detailed narrative of the kind featured in Blogs 1 and 2 of this series, but rather a set of photos from 2016 that I wanted to put into a stand alone entry vs. having to search for it as I did today.
> 
> ...


Great little plane Smitty. I think woodworkers from the past would be very pleased at the respect most of us have for these old planes and old tools in general.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Series of Pictures*
> 
> Not a detailed narrative of the kind featured in Blogs 1 and 2 of this series, but rather a set of photos from 2016 that I wanted to put into a stand alone entry vs. having to search for it as I did today.
> 
> ...


Lovely, just lovely. 
Best thoughts,
Mads


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