# table saw vs. radial arm saw



## gav0 (Sep 30, 2008)

I just purchased a table saw, however before I did so, my uncle mentioned that either a table saw or radial arm saw would be suitable for most things that I might make at this point. I did negelct to ask him what the differences are between the two aside from the ripping capabilities on the table saw. So I was wondering if anyone on here would be kind enough to fill in the blanks for me.


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## North40 (Oct 17, 2007)

Gav - I have both. Most of the time radial arm saws are used more like giant miter saws. They aren't usually quite as accurate as a miter saw, and most tend to need to be adjusted frequently to maintain accuracy. They can be set up to rip, but the rip capacity is limited to the length of the arm. A lot of radial arm saws have the ability to be set up to do other operations besides sawing, like vertical/horizontal drilling, planing, etc. A radial arm saw "climbs" at you when cross cutting, which creates another set of safety concerns. For 90% of woodworkers, a table saw and miter saw are the way to go. If you only have space or budget for one tool, a radial arm saw will do a respectable job.


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## snowdog (Jul 1, 2007)

If I had the room I would get a radial arm saw. I don't thing it could ever replace my table saw but I remember using one when I was much younger and it made some cuts much easier. I am thinking about replacing my 15" chop saw with one of the new smaller versions, the Compound Miter Saw seems to be part radial arm saw but for $600+ I may not get permission from miss bossy


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## CedarFreakCarl (Apr 21, 2007)

I've got both and the radial arm saw hasn't seen electricity in 5 or so years. I purchased a 12" sliding compound miter saw a couple of years back and it does everything the radial arm saw does and more only with better accuracy and safety. Now there was a time when all I had was the radial arm saw and it served me well as you can perform a lot of table saw functions albeit with limited ripping capacity. But, if you've aready got a table saw, it seems to me that a scms would be the most bang for the buck.


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## jroot (Jan 20, 2015)

This is neat information. I have a table saw already, and was considering investing in a radial arm saw or a mitre saw. Good discussion. Keep it coming.


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## oldworld124 (Mar 2, 2008)

This is a tough one. I have had 3 radial arm saws (RAS) through the years and now have none. I now use a sliding table saw with a 9' slider. It is extremely accurate and I do most cuts on it. The bandsaws get used almost as much.
However, am not against RAS. A good quality one will cut very well and can in many cases cut faster. I once worked for a trim contractor in the late 70's doing a commercial interior out of redwood. We used at least 10,000 BF of redwood plus some 1,500 BF of oak. I was making as many as 3,000 cuts a day on a RAS. Now, w are talking extreme here. But, the cuts were perfect and the machine performed well. Bottom line is that they are fast. The biggest problem I see with RAS is that most are just not accurate enough to warrant the space they take up.
There are many good quality miter saws out there that will cut just as well as a good RAS and take up much less space. They are also mush more portable.
One other thing. I would not recommend using the RAS to rip. These things are too vulnerable to kickbacks and I have seen way too many accidents because of this practice. The wood is trapped between the fence and the blade. The blade does not come from under the table top, rather it is suspended. The guards are normally taken off or at least the plastic flex part is removed. Bad practice? Yes. But it is all too common.

Hope this helps. John


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## MrWoody (Jan 25, 2008)

I have had 2 RAS's and got rid of both. I have a small workshop and I just couldn't justify the space the RAS took up compared to the use it got. RAS can be as accurate as a compound saw if they are set up properly and not moved. I used a book by Jon Eakes "Fine Tuning Your RAS", but it is no longer in print.
Some things can be done easier and probably better on the RAS. They just take up too much room. I feel the Compound Miter saw has replaced the RAS in most shops.
My $.02 CDN


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## brianinpa (Mar 16, 2008)

I have a table saw and a RAS and both are very useful. The RAS is perfect for cutting miters, cross cutting and even ripping, but the width of the rip can be the only limiting factor. Using a RAS requires a great deal of attention to prevent accidents.

I really like using my RAS when cutting dados - this can't be done on a miter saw and it is a lot easier than cross cutting a dado on a table saw. A table saw or RAS requires fine tuning to keep them accurate. For me it is what I learned on growing up. I have tried all types of power saws, but prefer these to any other on the market today.


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## douglas2cats (Mar 31, 2008)

I think for dados or rabbets I'd actually prefer the RAS as you can see the cut. But I'd avoid ripping on a RAS like the plague. Even with the right blades with hook angles made for them, they can be notorious for wanting to lift stock and kick it back. I used to have a part time job during high school at a lumber yard that also did a bit of millwork. Even the old timers there were leery of ripping on the 12" (or was it 16"?) RAS. One epioide had a 16 ft 2×12 shot back straight into the entry doorway and flung it open and tore one of the hinges off. I think the guy standing about 20 feet outside the door had to go home and change his pants. Another time I saw it shoot a 8 ft 6×6 missle back and missed the door but knocked 2 cinder blocks out of the wall. This was on a machine run by guys who knew what they were doing with hook angles on the blades meant for RAS use. That lesson has stayed with me a long time.


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## mleedix (Sep 5, 2008)

Well my beliefs have changed over the years when it coms to RAS. Wanted one for years, we have two of them. One was setup to use as a pin router after a few years and the other was donated to us. Frankly, I can not recall the last time we used it. Dangerous? IMO yes it can be if proper care isn't used. But as others metion above, even with proper care and saftey it can still be dangerous as all our tools can be. Our reason for not using it is acuracy. Maybe I'm a perfectionist… but the tools we use the most often [TS, MS and drill press] are all set to 90.0 with a digital gauge. The RAS, neither of them will hold the angle. We can set them with no problems but it seems within a few cuts they are off one way or the other. No Thanks. Just my opinion though others may find RAS their best friend. Mine well I'd just as leave sell em both.


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## tooldad (Mar 24, 2008)

I have all 3 (Table, Miter, Radial) and wouldn't get rid of any of them. My craftsman radial is awesome and I use it for 95% of all cross cuts. I have T track built into the fence and an adjustable stop for repetitive cuts. Really the only time I use the miter saw is to make miter or angle cuts. Also on jobs away from the house. One thing a sliding miter saw can't do that a radial can, is dado cuts with a dado blade. I make my rabbets for drawers, and dados for bookshelves using the RAS. I have had the experience to work with about 5 different RAS's. I bought myself a used craftman for $200 back in 1998 and still am using it now 10 years later. Had the chance to buy a newer one for my school for the same money in 2002 and jumped on it. However as the old saying goes, they don't make them like they used to. The newer one had a single track that the saw rode on. The older one had 2 tracks with 4 wheels. The newer one basically had wobble to it and couldn't guarantee square even if locked. I have no problems with my older craftsman. We then purchased a Ridgid in 2003 and it was basically a twin to my older craftsman, good saw. At my current school we have an older Dewalt that will rip 16" and it is awesome, I would take in a heartbeat over my craftsman. At our sister school they have the 10" and the 12" Deltas. Those work pretty good also. However the switch is on the saw rather than the arm, kind of making it a nuisence to shut off, all the others have arm mounted switches and can be turned off quickly.

All in all RAS are good tools if you keep them maintained as with all tools. However I would buy a table saw, then a miter saw, and if you have the space, a RAS. it is just safer and less cumbersome to have to get out a sled every time you want to make a crosscut.


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## Llarian (Jul 10, 2008)

I prefer by RAS for precision crosscutting, mostly because I find it easier to target the exact mark than with a CMS. However, since I don't have an SCMS, that might be the difference.

I used to use the RAS for ripping, trying to do it accuratly is what led me to get a tablesaw in the first place. The RAS still serves a purpose, but I suspect long term I'll replace it with a SCMS and never look back, the only reason I haven't is because of the cost of the SCMS. The RAS takes up a LOT of room in my shop, and space is at a premium.

However, if you have one, I think they are excellent for precision crosscuts, so long as its kept adjusted and never moved out of the 90 degree position. I use jigs to do miter cuts, rather than changing the arm position, and I never do compound miters on the RAS.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

I was taught to use a SCMS for most of the crosscutting and the table saw for ripping, this is the method we use at school!


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

I use a sliding compound saw instead of a RAS and say don't even think about ripping on a RAS that's what table saws are for. If I had to start with one saw it would be a table saw you can rip and cross cut on it.


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## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

I have a Dewalt RAS and you can have it… I don't like it or want it… come and pick it up bench and all.


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## Cato (May 1, 2009)

Probably the sliding compounds are the way to go these days. I have an older Craftsman RAS that I use for crosscutting, but the others are right it does take up a lot of room, and for that it may have to go one of these days. 
It is fast to use, however, and nice because of the large table size for work support, particularly when cutting long boards 6' and up.
Mine was free, so I still have it and use it all the time, and not ready to spend the extra for an sliding miter just yet.
Emerson, the OEM, recently sent me a safety guard upgrade kit, new table board, and handle with trigger that raises the safety guard as it crosses the fence. Just got it, and have to install it. Should shroud the exposed portions of the blade better than the old one.


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## Durnik150 (Apr 22, 2009)

The RAS is a tool whose time has come and gone. It is a great tool for quick cross-cuts but the accuracy proved to be its demise. I agree with most of the others here, I have had both and the RAS is a dinosaur. If you have the choice of one, get the table saw. If you can swing both, get a table saw and a miter saw. Unless someone is giving it to you free I thinnk the RAS is out of date.


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## donbee (Feb 7, 2009)

I have had, one at a time, three RASs, each one "higher quality" and larger capacity than the last.

I don't like them.

They scare me.

They wouldn't hold adjustments even if not moved.

Every time a crosscut caught the blade and it rode up on the work, it destroyed all the adjustments and caused the motor to stall. That can't be good for the motor, the saw frame or my mental state.

When it didn't misbehave it did well and it was fairly good for the pupose it was intended, but the number of malfunctions was too high for me.

Never again.

d


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## WibblyPig (Jun 8, 2009)

I guess I march to the beat of a different drummer. I've had a number of RASs and love them. Dados for book cases, ladders, ornamental work on posts, cross cutting large panels, etc. it just can't be beat.

Reasons I like it:

nice long fence for getting true 90 degree ends

I don't have to worry about messing up my miter saw by cutting rough lumber - I prefer to keep my precision tools for precision work (though I still sweeten miters with a Lion)

big work table for cutting big lumber - don't have to set up 2Xs to hold everything up at the same level as the miter saw.


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## ondablade (Aug 23, 2009)

My experience is not that wide, but fits with what the guys are saying above - i'd have to say that mine doesn't get much use either.

The biggest problems i've experienced are (a) they take a lot of setting up, and still are not all that precise, (b) the blade draws them into the cut and they can climb the workpiece unless you are very careful (negative rake blades help, but don't stop it), and (c) if they do climb out of the cut they get knocked out of alignment as well as damaging the workpiece and presenting a risk - and need setting up again.

It kind of did my head in that i could never trust the damn thing to be in alignment.

A less significant issue is that the working surface on the table gets chewed up all the time. Plus they take up a lot of space. Mine is a yellow DW 721 (?) which may or may not be representative of a quality example. (it came to me new as a part of a deal for a lot of equipment)

As above perhaps a fraction more versatile, but sliding mitre saws have closed the gap on capacity. I guess whatever advantage they have comes from having a greater range of movement available in swinging the blade/motor around - you can set the blade parallel to the fence (i.e 90 deg from the crosscut position), or for that matter swing the saw spindle so it points vertically downward.

I've advertised mine for sale a couple of times, but got little or no interest….


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## closetguy (Sep 29, 2007)

After 5 years of owning one, I got rid of it. The RAS was just too time consuming to keep aligned and was the most dangerous machine in my shop. If you have the money to buy one, invest in a sliding table for your TS instead. Once I installed the slider on my TS, I never turned the RAS on again. A good slider will run you $600 - $1000 depending on the brand, but it will be the best money you ever spent.


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## donbee (Feb 7, 2009)

I build all my own tablesaw sleds. They give me accurate and unchanging cuts for the angles they are designed for. I have sleds for 90º, 45º left and right, and even 22.5º.

The table saw does for me most of what I want to do, but I also use a Grizzley bandsaw, a Delta mitersaw and a Hegner scrollsaw. They provide me with almost everything I want in cutting wood. I do also have a panel cutting setup with a dedicated Porter-Cable circular saw. A number of routers deicated to various tasks round out the arsenel.

Radial arm saw? Huh uh. Not here.

d


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## chriswright (Nov 13, 2008)

A radial is an all in one tool, you can cross cut, cut miters, dados and even rip. However, it is the only tool in the shop (an feel free to correct me on this) that is backwards. And by that I mean that every tool in the shop you work against the cutting action, with a RAS you are working with the cutting action. Which if you're not prepared can startle you or if you're hand's in the wrong spot you can get injured. In today's shop, I don't really see the necessity for a RAS since most everything you can do on a RAS you can do on another tool and it will most likely be relegated to doing just rough cross cuts, a lot like mine is. I suggest that if you're looking for a tool to do that, invest in a nice sliding compound miter saw. I'm sure it would see more use in your shop and will cost less, plus they are more portable so if you're pressed for space (and what wood shop can't use more space) you can move it out of the way when it's not in use.


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## JamesAustin (Sep 10, 2009)

I have a radial arm and a tablesaw, both from Sears, I use my radial arm on every project I do.
I do not rip on it, I use it for crosscuts and dados, mine stays accurate as long as I don't mess with it. 
I also have a compound miter saw, which will soon be replaced with a slider. However this will not replace the RAS as I like the large table surface for crosscuts…....

Someone back up the thread mentioned cutting up the table, mine has a piece of 1/4" plywood on top, as a disposible surface…..

And the Emerson replacement guard and table, makes it difficult to rip…..


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## AaronK (Nov 30, 2008)

i'm with DOn. cant see the need for one when you have a TS with sleds and as BS to boot.


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## hairy (Sep 23, 2008)

I had a Delta 10" RAS. Sold it. Big mistake, I wish I still had it.


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## Rick Dennington (Aug 27, 2009)

I have all three(make that four-I have two table saws), anf don't even think about taking my RAS away from me. I bought this saw in 1985, set it up then ,and it's been dead-on accrute ever since. I removed the leg stand from mine when I built the mitersaw and ras cabinet (see my blog on workshop#2). I love this beast!!
Basically all I use it for is crosscuts and it's true to the 90 degrees, but will cut 45's just as nice.
I still can cut dados and rabbits on it with no problems. When I'm dead, you can pry it from my cold, unheated shop.


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## scottj (Mar 15, 2009)

I have all three and only use my RAS for crosscutting. If something happened to it, I doubt I would replace it. It is currently the center peice on my miter station flanked by two miter saws. Would prob. put a slidding compound miter in its place.


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## unbob (Mar 10, 2013)

I have one of the old DeWalt mbc 9", only 1/2hp, I use it mostly for small and short pieces. I use the machine alot, unlike many radial saws, its high precision.


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## TTF (Sep 13, 2009)

I have a table-saw, a RAS (fitted with a dado blade), and a sliding miter saw. I use all three. 
If I had to have just one, no contest - a table saw. I would never rip with a RAS (I want to keep my hands intact), and I can do crosscuts with my table saw a simple sled.


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## ohtimberwolf (Dec 17, 2011)

I have used a RAS since 1988 and at that time it was all I had. I still have it and as long as I have room for it I will keep it as I use it a lot for cross cutting short and long stock. I always have a firm grip on the saw when using it and never forget to do that. Had only one injury in all this time, including ripping, but I was always careful to be careful since that!

The injury was my own fault. Early on I tried to do something I knew better than to do but thought I could '*do it this one time'* ~ what I did was hold a piece of wood at an angle *with my hand* instead of changing the angle of the arm. The blade grabbed the wood, slammed it against the fence with my finger between the wood and the fence. OH HOW THAT HURT!!! I learned quickly not to do that.

I love the saw but would advise anyone to never do anything stupid (with any type of equipment) even if it is just once and always check to be sure you are set up correctly for the cut.


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## Splinter2 (Oct 29, 2012)

Jon Eakes "Fine Tuning Your RAS" is available free for download at this website:

http://www.drosera.f2s.com/RAS/RadialArmSaw.pdf


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## Moose364 (Mar 20, 2017)

I have all three. and I do use my RAS on almost every project, it stays set on 90 with either a 80 tooth crosscut blade or a dado blade, sooner or later I going to build it into a bench with my miter saw, so they can both use the bench for work surface, I have a love and hate with the miter saw just because if what your cutting is over 3' long then you need a stand or something to hold the work piece but for angle cut's it will get the job done. 
And thanks Splinter2 for the link.


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## ArlinEastman (May 22, 2011)

A friend gave me his old 1955 AMF DeWalt RAS and I love it. I really do believe it is saver then a TS and does a lot better job in most instances then a TS.


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## ArlinEastman (May 22, 2011)

Someone helped me a year ago with someone who sold the Dewalt in the 40's -60's and his name was Wally Kunkel and he was in parts of the design as well I think but his daughter is the one who sent me the book thru another guy who knew them.

Here is the link to his book and he was the first who wrote about it.

http://www.mrsawdust.com/

He tells so much and about history and the many that were made and has humor in it to. I would HIGHLY recommend it!!!!!!

I should also say he was the #1 sales person to sell the RAS and demonstrator on them to.


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## DirtyMike (Dec 6, 2015)

Radial arm saws are the most hated, under utilized and misunderstood tools in wood working. there is really no comparing a table saw to a ras.


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## TajBuilder (Aug 6, 2008)

> Jon Eakes "Fine Tuning Your RAS" is available free for download at this website:
> 
> http://www.drosera.f2s.com/RAS/RadialArmSaw.pdf
> 
> - Splinter2


While it may be "free" on that website, its still copyrighted by Eakes. Spend the money and download it from Eakes website. He deserves to be paid for his work.


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## mountainaxe (Jul 17, 2011)

> Jon Eakes "Fine Tuning Your RAS" is available free for download at this website:
> 
> http://www.drosera.f2s.com/RAS/RadialArmSaw.pdf
> 
> ...


IMO this is the finest book ever published covering the steps needed to get your RAS in precision order. Do the right thing and pay Eakes for his exemplary effort. It's well worth the cost and better on the conscience.


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## pontic (Sep 25, 2016)

Sold my radial arm saw to some 22yrs ago. Never looked back.


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## JayCee123 (Apr 22, 2016)

IMO I think it depends on your projects. I've never owned an RAS so I'm not going to talk it down but in my experience with a table saw I can rip, x-cut as accurately as needed. Add a sled and make accurate cuts of any angle, and I can with work pieces so small I need to secure them with the end of a pencil.
Congrats on your new saw. Suggestion: Your first project (other then purchasing a push stick and feather board), should be to build a TS sled.


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