# Air Dried Walnut for Furniture/ Workbench Question



## Dan3 (Jan 19, 2013)

Hi All,

I'm new to woodworking so bare with me.

I bought some rough air dried walnut which was stored outside for well over a year. The 2 boards are 13 feet in length, 9 inches wide and 2.75 inches thick. I bought them for making a work bench top. I wanted a lighter color wood but this was the only dried thick lumber he had and the price was right. My question is since this wood was stored outside do I need to dry it inside before I use it for my bench? It looks like nice wood and I will have a lot of extra when I'm done so would I be able to also use this for furniture even though it was dried in this manor? The wood seems to be very striahgt, but it's just a little damp.Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Dan


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## Melanie (Jan 18, 2013)

Your wood needs to be acclimated to the environment that it will be kept in. Do you have a wood moisture sensor? On the low end they can be purchased for as little as $30. on up to hundreds. The wood might look dry but there is nothing worst that spending time working on a piece that looks beautiful at first until the moisture leaves & along with it makes vacant gaps in the wood.


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## JGM0658 (Aug 16, 2011)

Jeeez men, buy some pine to make your bench and save the walnut for something better. Those are some awesome boards, why waste them on something that is going to get nicked, scratched, etc? If you plan to use your bench for wood work, buy some cheap wood, if you plan it to be for show, then go buy some maple as well so it makes contrast with your walnut… ;-)


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## MedicKen (Dec 2, 2008)

I agree with Melanie, it needs to acclimate. Also be prepared for some movement when milling the lumber. When you first cut it, cut it over size by about 1/2" to allow for movement. There is a good possibility that when milled you will release tension in the lumber and it will warp, twist etc. I would also let the boards sit for a few days after the initial milling to allow for more acclimation.


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## BrandonW (Apr 27, 2010)

If it's only been air drying for a year, it probably isn't dry enough. As a general rule, you want it to air dry one year for every inch of thickness. Of course, the moister meter will either confirm or deny this.

So if you need a bench now, perhaps Jorge is right. I personally prefer benches made of hardwood over pine, but there are many nice benches made of SYP that function perfectly fine.


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## JesseTutt (Aug 15, 2012)

The wood is probably not dry enough. If there is a board you could cut about a foot off of and then use a moister meter on the center of the fresh cut that would give you a useful reading. You want 6-8% moister.

I agree with Jorge, save the walnut. Buy some dense heavy pine 2x?? and mill them down and glue them so that the 2" edge is up. This will form a thick workbench top and you have the more valuable walnut for projects.


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## shampeon (Jun 3, 2012)

Just to be clear here, when you bought the wood, was it air-dried, and then you stored it for a year outside? Or did the sawyer say that he had air-dried it for a year when you bought it?

The supposed disadvantage of darker-colored work benches is that you don't get as much light and contrast on your workpiece.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

Air dried wood is the absolute best kind. Lumber that is properly stacked, covered and stickered outside, will dry slowly down to equilibrium with the climate. In my climate that is about 12-15% moisture content. From there I put them in a home dehumidification kiln, which is nothing more than a space heater, box fans and a home dehumidifier in a confined space. Run that for about two weeks, and you will have nice dry lumber at 6-8% MC. 
If your workbench is destined for a a non-heated shop, you can get by with drying to about 10% MC. Bringing the wood into a heated / air conditioned home for a month will accomplish the 10% MC.

Best of luck!


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## MonteCristo (May 29, 2012)

I wouldn't use walnut for a bench (top) for two reasons. One is it isn't all that hard and the other is its dark color will be a real pain.


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## rob2 (Nov 27, 2007)

Sounds like you got some thick walnut. Awesome. Save it for some furniture. Air dried walnut take on a much more beautiful appearance than kiln dried. Kiln dried walnut just looks muddy. Depending on you part of the country, souther yellow pine or Douglas fir are great materials for benches.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

I'm in the "don't use the walnut for a bench" crowd. I also agree a 3" piece is probably not dry.


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## oldworld124 (Mar 2, 2008)

You also want to check it very carefully for any small holes that would be an indication of an infestation of boring beetles. You don't want them in your house or shop. they love walnut. walnut that is stored outside is especially vulnerable to them.


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## runswithscissors (Nov 8, 2012)

After reading what you have planned, I had to make an emergency appointment with my therapist. Up here in the Pac. N. W., walnut is rare, exotic, and very espensive.


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## newwoodbutcher (Aug 6, 2010)

I can't see where you are located but if you are close to Southern California, I would be happy to trade some hard maple for some of that Walnut


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## Dan3 (Jan 19, 2013)

Thanks everyone for the reposnses. I believe I'm going to use this for my next furniture project instead and contact the mill to see just how long it's been air drying. The bench is going to have to be made out of pine for now. They have a bunch more of this at the yard so I think I'm going to pick up a few more boards for some future projects. I calculated it out and I got it for a $1.64 a board foot. Maybe I will make the front vise and tail vises in walnut for some contrast.

Pintodeluxe, I'm going to take your suggestion on get it dry once I find out how long over a year it's been sitting.

For those of you who asked, I'm on Long Island in NY.

Thanks,
Dan


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## JGM0658 (Aug 16, 2011)

wow, that is a great price…...you better get as much as you can.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

It typically cost what you paid, just to have it sawn. See this recent post http://lumberjocks.com/topics/45743


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## Dan3 (Jan 19, 2013)

I bought a moisture meter and its reading 14-15%. I took the reading on a piece I cut off about 6 inches in form the end. Is this far enough in? I was planning on trying to put the wood in my basement, near my furnace and putting a fan on it and running a dehumidifer for about two weeks. Have any of you had success with this? I'm in NY.

If this actually works I think I'll go buy some more.

Thanks!


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

I'm not a wood drying expert by any stretch, but putting the wood in the basement, near the furnace and putting a fan and dehumidifer on a piece that's still at 15% will most likely be asking for trouble. I'd set it inside where its just warm and dry and let it equalize. Something that thick will probably take much longer than 2 weeks.

I also wouldn't worry about cutting into the center until the outside is down in content and it been some time. You cut 6" off every time you check it, you'll need to send me those pieces for making hand plane totes.


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## SteviePete (May 10, 2009)

Take care of those planks. Trim the ends and coat with Anchorseal - wax emulsion. Do the knots too and any other area where a check may be starting. It can be dried with a schedule - see Hoadley (Understanding Wood) If it is glamour wood, store it out of the weather and sun and be ready to use it in several years. Meter readings are only meaningful if they are taken over time. MC will change with ambient RH. Patience, Grasshopper.

Good Luck, On Wisconsin. Steve


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