# Woodworking Skills & Stuff:



## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

*What happened to all the Stanley #1 hand planes? You may be surprised...*

They're too small to be useful, and too rare to be part of most collections. But they were once quite common and had a specific purpose! Take a minute to learn something new in the latest article at Stumpynubs.com!


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## lightcs1776 (Nov 14, 2013)

StumpyNubs said:


> *What happened to all the Stanley #1 hand planes? You may be surprised...*
> 
> They're too small to be useful, and too rare to be part of most collections. But they were once quite common and had a specific purpose! Take a minute to learn something new in the latest article at Stumpynubs.com!


Interesting. Those certainly were pretty small.


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## DonBroussard (Mar 27, 2012)

StumpyNubs said:


> *What happened to all the Stanley #1 hand planes? You may be surprised...*
> 
> They're too small to be useful, and too rare to be part of most collections. But they were once quite common and had a specific purpose! Take a minute to learn something new in the latest article at Stumpynubs.com!


I've never seen a No. 1 in real life. Based on the size comparison with the US quarter dollar, it looks like a toy! Your logic on what happened to the No. 1's makes sense to me, and it's hard to prove you wrong. Proving a negative is always difficult.


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

StumpyNubs said:


> *What happened to all the Stanley #1 hand planes? You may be surprised...*
> 
> They're too small to be useful, and too rare to be part of most collections. But they were once quite common and had a specific purpose! Take a minute to learn something new in the latest article at Stumpynubs.com!


Great read…. love to learn "useless" information!!!
Not really useless, as it may become a jeopardy! question…. or is that answer??? ;^)


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## BTimmons (Aug 6, 2011)

StumpyNubs said:


> *What happened to all the Stanley #1 hand planes? You may be surprised...*
> 
> They're too small to be useful, and too rare to be part of most collections. But they were once quite common and had a specific purpose! Take a minute to learn something new in the latest article at Stumpynubs.com!


Got to handle a Lie Nielsen #1 once. Couldn't even admire the craftsmanship, I just kept thinking, "Aw, it's cute!"


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## JL7 (Apr 13, 2010)

StumpyNubs said:


> *What happened to all the Stanley #1 hand planes? You may be surprised...*
> 
> They're too small to be useful, and too rare to be part of most collections. But they were once quite common and had a specific purpose! Take a minute to learn something new in the latest article at Stumpynubs.com!


Interesting viewpoint Stumpy…...


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## xraydav (Jan 2, 2013)

StumpyNubs said:


> *What happened to all the Stanley #1 hand planes? You may be surprised...*
> 
> They're too small to be useful, and too rare to be part of most collections. But they were once quite common and had a specific purpose! Take a minute to learn something new in the latest article at Stumpynubs.com!


A few clicks back, I found a Stanley #1 on eBay for 250. It had been dropped and the bed cracked on both sides. Well the two pieces did not let go, and the former owner used some metal weld paste to try and pretend it was repaired. When I got it, I tried to file the rough bumpy dried metal glue smooth to improve its look and it fell apart in my hands. 
I have always been of the mind that something old that can be repaired, it should be, as they are not making them any more. So I took it to a "Cast Metal Welding Expert" who ground the crap out of it, and handed it back to me saying this is cast iron and it can not be welded. You can see that this is not going well for me.
I read the ad for Muggy Weld, and was not sure I believed what the add claimed, welding cast iron to 5,000 lbs strength. The two silver brazing rods the add showed were $80 bucks. I am sure that at this point some of you are howling at a fool like me through good money after bad. But I bought them. Then I read that it would not work as well using a standard propane torch as it would with an Oxo-Prop setup. So another expenditure. Any way, I stripped it down to the bed. Clamped each piece to a flat bar of steel with the right gap for the mouth all to hold it correctly while heating it. I got it to the dull red the instructions described and touched the silver rod to the metal and dam if it did not pool and fill the crack.. worked my way to the bottom and then did the other side.
First time out I had lots of impurity bubbles on one side and a divot on the other. Fired up the torch again and filled the divot and smoothed out the bubbles… It may not be perfect, but it is pretty good for my first time welding cast iron that is about 1/8th thick.






















































Laid all three sides on my belt sander to smooth it out and steel wooled the whole thing and gave it a light coat of black. Took a piece of nice rosewood I had and traced the tote and handle and cut and filed and sanded till I had a new set of wood on this baby. Took the blade and honed the back, then did my 4 diamond stones finishing on a Sharpton 5000 stone and buffed it on my honing strop. Back together, it is friggin cute. And it cuts much better than any similar sized block or specialty plane. I now have a full set of Stanley/Baileys 1-8 including the 1/4s and 1/2 sizes.. Also have the full set of Bedrock planes except for a 602. But that sweet #1 is my pride and joy. And I want to tell you that I have big hands and I hold it like a block plane and it is pure joy to work wood with.. And now I know, you can weld cast iron as well. I have kept the original tote and handle and will probably sell them some day when I can no longer work wood. In the mean time I know I spent almost 400 on a repaired plane, and that there are some of you would say it was a foolish move. I put it in a vise and pulled on it hard with my 250b body and it is rock solid. And it may be repaired… but I have a #!.


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

*Rules aren't meant to be broken. They're meant to measure things...*

As you know, here at the Stumpy Nubs Workshop we like to bend the rules. Something we even break them. But most often we simply create a nasty kink that forever keeps the darn things from lying flat again. Yes, I am a rebel. But rules aren't really made to be broken, they're made to measure things. So quality really matters.

By now most of you have caught on to my little play on words. But for the few still confused, I'm talking about the plain old woodworking ruler, an all too often underappreciated tool. I can understand why you might have been a little slow on the uptake. For one thing, I called them "rules". That's a term I had to adopt later in my woodworking career since I grew up calling them "rulers". But ask an old-timer for a "ruler" and you'll end up with a nasty welt after he thwacks you on the forehead with his "rule". So for the sake of this discussion, and to avoid another controversy like the infamous "jig saw"/"saber saw" incident of 2012, I will be using the term "rule".

READ THE REST OF THE ARTICLE BELOW- OR OVER AT STUMPYNUBS.COM WHERE THERE ARE ADDED PICTURES AND STUFF... YOUR CHOICE…










The rule gets a bad rep these days, probably because it doesn't roll up with the press of a button like the fancy-pants measuring tape. But for true accuracy you can't beat a high quality steel rule. Yes, I said "high quality", because not all are created equal. How do you know the difference? Why does it matter? Those are two excellent questions…

*Heavy vs. Light:* Just like with the people you see every day, you can often judge quality by weight alone. If it's really light, it's probably junk. Aluminum and soft steel are popular materials for the type you find in office supply stores, but they won't hold up in the workshop. Over time and use they will nick or bend. A good rule is made from hardened steel.

*Stamped vs. Machined:* One of the reasons cheap rules are made from soft materials is that they can be die stamped from large sheets. But a stamped rule creates a problem. The edges are often slightly rounded over, which means the marks won't always go all the way to the edges. A good rule has machined sides that are square to the face. When you run your finger down the edge it should be sharp, and you should feel the graduations through your pencil when you're locating your mark.

*Printed vs. Etched*: Cheap rules have printed markings, and it's pretty obvious why these aren't ideal. They wear off over time, for one thing. But more importantly, printed markings tend to be wider, introducing more error into your layout that can add up over the course of a project. Good rules have acid etched markings, which are permanent and much finer than the printed ones.

So, you've examined all of your rules, and they seem to meet the standards for quality. Does that make them right for woodworking? Not necessarily. Like any tool, there are different types for different uses. Machinist rules are usually of excellent quality. But the scale isn't always relevant to woodworking. Do you really need a rule with markings to the 64th of an inch? Do you really need a metric scale? These things can clutter the face of a rule and lead to error. While I do like to have a metric rule in the shop, I only get it out when I need it. I like a good, simple one with a marking every 1/16".

Now that you've picked out your rule, how can you get the most out of it? Here're a few tips:

*Start with the "one":* I don't always trust the first inch of my rule. I don't know why, it may be because I used to use cheap ones which really shouldn't have been trusted. But I've noticed that even the pros, with their fancy, expensive rules use this trick. When measuring the width or thickness of a work piece, start with the one. Any nick or wear of on the end of the rule will be canceled out. Just don't forget to subtract an inch from your layout!

*Use the edge:* Sometimes the thickness of the rule can work against you. Your eyes can misjudge the position of your pencil when compensating for the distance from the markings on the face of the rule to the work piece beneath it, creating an offset. When I need very precise marks, I stand the rule on its edge so that the scale touches the work piece.

*Find the width:* One nice thing to have around the shop is a center finding rule. It has a zero in the center and the markings run out from there toward each end. But you can find the center of a work piece with a regular rule too. Simply place one end on the edge of the board, and angle the rule across its face until one of the marking with an even number touches the opposite edge. Divide by two and you have your center.

*Divide evenly:* You can use a similar technique to divide a work piece into equal parts. The zero end goes on one edge, and the rule is angled across the face until the number that corresponds to the amount of divisions you require meets the opposite edge. Mark each inch across the face and you're done.

This is just a small sample of what a good rule can do. So use your measuring tape when you must, but don't forget about the lowly rule. It may look like a simple tool, but it can be one of the most versatile in your shop.

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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Rules aren't meant to be broken. They're meant to measure things...*
> 
> As you know, here at the Stumpy Nubs Workshop we like to bend the rules. Something we even break them. But most often we simply create a nasty kink that forever keeps the darn things from lying flat again. Yes, I am a rebel. But rules aren't really made to be broken, they're made to measure things. So quality really matters.
> 
> ...


Great snippets of info and "tricks of the trade" there.

A couple of hints that you didn't mention….

1) "Tis a good idea to compare your measuring devices. Use your best rule and compare, "side by side" with your other rules, tape measures, even fence scales and see if the markings line up and are accurate. Relegate the "less than accurate" devices for "rough" marking/cuts.

2) One should try to use only one measuring device on a project. That and not use the less than accurate ones for "final" marking/cuts.

Carry on….I know you have some video to shoot!!!


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Rules aren't meant to be broken. They're meant to measure things...*
> 
> As you know, here at the Stumpy Nubs Workshop we like to bend the rules. Something we even break them. But most often we simply create a nasty kink that forever keeps the darn things from lying flat again. Yes, I am a rebel. But rules aren't really made to be broken, they're made to measure things. So quality really matters.
> 
> ...


Great tips, Randy! Thanks for adding them!


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## toeachhisown (Eddie) (Mar 30, 2011)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Rules aren't meant to be broken. They're meant to measure things...*
> 
> As you know, here at the Stumpy Nubs Workshop we like to bend the rules. Something we even break them. But most often we simply create a nasty kink that forever keeps the darn things from lying flat again. Yes, I am a rebel. But rules aren't really made to be broken, they're made to measure things. So quality really matters.
> 
> ...


these are good rules ,thanks


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## Sawdustmaker115 (Sep 8, 2013)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Rules aren't meant to be broken. They're meant to measure things...*
> 
> As you know, here at the Stumpy Nubs Workshop we like to bend the rules. Something we even break them. But most often we simply create a nasty kink that forever keeps the darn things from lying flat again. Yes, I am a rebel. But rules aren't really made to be broken, they're made to measure things. So quality really matters.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the tips, I've been wanting to purchase some new rules, thanks for mentioning what to look for


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Rules aren't meant to be broken. They're meant to measure things...*
> 
> As you know, here at the Stumpy Nubs Workshop we like to bend the rules. Something we even break them. But most often we simply create a nasty kink that forever keeps the darn things from lying flat again. Yes, I am a rebel. But rules aren't really made to be broken, they're made to measure things. So quality really matters.
> 
> ...


Stumpy,

Good blog! Randy, nice additions. For me I'd add read the rule several times and make sure. Charles Neal said "Measure 3 times and then "Sneak up on it!" Yesterday…. Rebuilding my bench into a hybrid woodworking bench and I measured once accurately then when I cut added an inch? Can always cut down but never up. Whew!


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## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Rules aren't meant to be broken. They're meant to measure things...*
> 
> As you know, here at the Stumpy Nubs Workshop we like to bend the rules. Something we even break them. But most often we simply create a nasty kink that forever keeps the darn things from lying flat again. Yes, I am a rebel. But rules aren't really made to be broken, they're made to measure things. So quality really matters.
> 
> ...


Great info Stumpy (and Randy)! I had learned and forgotten the divide evenly trick. Thanks for the refresher!


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## Mean_Dean (Oct 13, 2009)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Rules aren't meant to be broken. They're meant to measure things...*
> 
> As you know, here at the Stumpy Nubs Workshop we like to bend the rules. Something we even break them. But most often we simply create a nasty kink that forever keeps the darn things from lying flat again. Yes, I am a rebel. But rules aren't really made to be broken, they're made to measure things. So quality really matters.
> 
> ...


Nice rules of thumb!


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## lightcs1776 (Nov 14, 2013)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Rules aren't meant to be broken. They're meant to measure things...*
> 
> As you know, here at the Stumpy Nubs Workshop we like to bend the rules. Something we even break them. But most often we simply create a nasty kink that forever keeps the darn things from lying flat again. Yes, I am a rebel. But rules aren't really made to be broken, they're made to measure things. So quality really matters.
> 
> ...


Great overview. Definitely a needed guide to selecting a rule.


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## littlecope (Oct 23, 2008)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Rules aren't meant to be broken. They're meant to measure things...*
> 
> As you know, here at the Stumpy Nubs Workshop we like to bend the rules. Something we even break them. But most often we simply create a nasty kink that forever keeps the darn things from lying flat again. Yes, I am a rebel. But rules aren't really made to be broken, they're made to measure things. So quality really matters.
> 
> ...


I always did the "starting at one trick" too
but when using the yard stick (for longer measurements)
someone years ago told me to Zero at 10"...
That way, you don't have to "Remember to Forget" the extra inch
i.e., 7 1/2" will be at 17 1/2" 
You have to disregard the extra 10" of course,
but the last number is still the number you're working for…


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Rules aren't meant to be broken. They're meant to measure things...*
> 
> As you know, here at the Stumpy Nubs Workshop we like to bend the rules. Something we even break them. But most often we simply create a nasty kink that forever keeps the darn things from lying flat again. Yes, I am a rebel. But rules aren't really made to be broken, they're made to measure things. So quality really matters.
> 
> ...


Zero at 10 works with regular rulers too as long as you aren't measuring anything bigger than two inches.


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

*Which type of vise is best for an old-timey bench?*

When you're building a traditional piece of furniture, it makes sense to keep everything… well, traditional. You wouldn't put a digital face on a Townsend clock. But a workbench is different. We built our bench in the Roubo style for its features more than the old-timey tradition. (Watch our 2X6 Roubo woodworking bench videos here) So equipping it with a modern vise isn't sacrilege, it's a no brainer. The only question is, what kind of vise is right for your bench. There are primarily two kinds: face vises, and end vises.

READ THE REST OF THE ARTICLE BELOW- OR OVER AT STUMPYNUBS.COM WHERE THERE ARE ADDED PICTURES AND STUFF... YOUR CHOICE…










*Face Vises*

Interesting fact: the face vise is often the first thing your face will hit if you trip over your wood scraps and fall near the bench. It's also possible that it got its name from the place it mounts- on the bench face. A face vise is used to secure work pieces large and small, and is typically positioned near the left leg (for the right handed woodworker). This enables it to secure the leading edge of a large panel while the rest is supported with a holdfast or bench dog, provided you can get ol' Rufus to sit still. Face vises are also used to hold stock perpendicular to the bench top for dovetailing or other tasks. Just about any vise can be a face vise, but some are handier than others.

Cast Iron: These sturdy vises have been around for more than a century, and for good reason. They rarely lack for clamping power and are built to last a lifetime and beyond. The biggest complaint with this type of vise is that the jaws won't stay parallel to each other while clamping a work piece off center, which can dramatically reduce the clamping pressure. Moving the work piece to the center of the jaws isn't always an option because the screw and any guide bars tend to get in the way. The solution is to place a scrap of wood on the opposite end, keeping the jaws parallel to the bench face. Modern vises can be purchased with a double screw, which eliminates this problem. However some people say that the double screw makes it more difficult to dovetail on the end of a long panel. I suppose you can't have everything. Perhaps the best feature of many cast iron vises is the quick release option. Typically a lever is found near the main screw which disengages a split nut, allowing the jaw to be fully opened or closed without turning the handle. The convenience of this feature alone has made the cast iron vise a mainstay in many of today's shops.

Shoulder Vise: Some say screw it altogether to the cast iron vise and opt for the European shoulder vise, which is integrated into the bench top itself. Where the shoulder vise really excels is dovetailing because there's no hardware in the way if you want to let a long work piece extend toward the floor. Hungarian master Frank Klausz once said "why you want any other kind of vise". And it's hard to disagree, mostly because he's such an adorable grandfatherly looking fellow. But the shoulder vise is a tough build and requires a fifth leg to support it. And, depending on how it's designed, you have to remember that there are certain parts of the bench around the vise that aren't as solid as the rest of the top, so beware where you pound.

Leg Vise: One of the oldest of old-timey face vise styles is the leg vise. As their name implies, they attach to your bench leg. Don't be fooled by their simple design. Whoever invented the leg vise was a genius on the scale of Leonardo (Divinci and Dicaprio). A single screw passes through the large outer jaw and the leg of your bench, where it mates with a corresponding nut. When you adjust a leg vise, you not only turn the screw, you also place a pin into one of a series of holes at the base, creating a pivot point. So, when you tighten the screw you are levering the top of the jaw into the bench face, exerting a tremendous amount of clamping pressure. But therein lies the problem. You have to bend over to use a leg vise. Sometimes I'll go for weeks without changing my socks just to avoid bending over. And I'm not the only one, which may be why the leg vise is hard to find in the modern workshop. That said, it is making a bit of a comeback.

*End Vises*

As you would expect, the end vise is found on the end of the workbench. While it can be used for clamping stock perpendicular to the bench top, it really excels when used in combination with bench dogs for clamping stock flat. The end vise is actually used more often than the face vise in many shops. For some, it's the only vise they have. If I was going to have just one vise on my bench, it would be an end vise.

Cast Iron: Just as the heavy duty iron vise dominates many bench faces, it also holds its own in the end vise position. There is very little difference between the two, and most models can be used interchangeably. Some woodworkers prefer a wider jaw on the end of their bench, but any cast iron vise will serve the purpose. The same drawbacks apply wherever you mount these heavy duty beauties on your bench.

Wagon Vise: This nifty little doodad consists of a screw that passes through a frame buried within the bench top, creating a moving dog hole. I actually really like this style, but it does have its drawbacks. For one thing, you have to design it into your bench from day one. You can't add one of these after the top is built. And second, it's only good for securing wood flat on the bench top. So if you do want to clamp work pieces perpendicular to the bench, you'd better have a separate face vise.

Tail Vise: (Now, this can be confusing, because some people call all end vises "tail vises", and that's not incorrect. Both terms are used interchangeably in old woodworking books. But for the sake of our discussion, which is convoluted enough, when I say "tail vise", I'm referring to this style alone. And when I say end vise, I'm referring to the whole category of vises that go on the end of your bench, including the traditional tail vise.) This type of vise is what happens when a wagon vise meets a nice shoulder vise, buys it a few drinks and nature takes its course. It looks really cool. But looks can be deceiving. I used one of these for quite a while on my old bench. It's a big "L" shaped block that nests into the front of your bench top, with a wooden chop that extends across the end of the bench. The biggest problem is that it creates a giant no pound zone on the front of your bench, which is just the spot you typically want to pound. And even if you don't beat on it, they tend to sag over time. Don't get me wrong, some people still use and enjoy them. But it's perhaps the least common form of vise today.

So, now that you know all about the different types of vises available to you, which will you choose for your new Roubo workbench? I decided to go with a pair of high quality cast iron vises. Besides the fact that they should last forever, and they give me a lot of clamping capacity, their greatest selling point was the unique quick release feature that engages (or disengages) automatically with a quarter turn of the handle. I mounted this one to the face of my bench, and this one in the end vise position. Whatever you do, choose wisely. Picking a vise based on how it looks or how cool it seems is a bad idea. This is the heart and soul of your bench, you will be using it a lot! The wrong vise will give you headaches for a lifetime, but the right one can be your best friend.

Thanks for reading, and check out more woodworking goodness over at Stumpynubs.com!


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Which type of vise is best for an old-timey bench?*
> 
> When you're building a traditional piece of furniture, it makes sense to keep everything… well, traditional. You wouldn't put a digital face on a Townsend clock. But a workbench is different. We built our bench in the Roubo style for its features more than the old-timey tradition. (Watch our 2X6 Roubo woodworking bench videos here) So equipping it with a modern vise isn't sacrilege, it's a no brainer. The only question is, what kind of vise is right for your bench. There are primarily two kinds: face vises, and end vises.
> 
> ...


Stumpy,

Watched your bench video. And listened to your advise to ad a vice. LOL! Re purposed my old metal working shop bench into a woodworkers bench. Using my crappy HF 7 inch vise on the end with wood face on jaw to provide a clamping mechanism to anchor the boards to the bench dogs.

Have a Jorgenson cast iron vise on front with the release mechanism, which I purchased after looking at reviews on Amazon.

Thanks for your information.


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Which type of vise is best for an old-timey bench?*
> 
> When you're building a traditional piece of furniture, it makes sense to keep everything… well, traditional. You wouldn't put a digital face on a Townsend clock. But a workbench is different. We built our bench in the Roubo style for its features more than the old-timey tradition. (Watch our 2X6 Roubo woodworking bench videos here) So equipping it with a modern vise isn't sacrilege, it's a no brainer. The only question is, what kind of vise is right for your bench. There are primarily two kinds: face vises, and end vises.
> 
> ...


I've got three cast iron bench vises, off of CL….
& two vises that came on my cheap arse bargain basement workbench.

Sooooo, *now* you tell me about the quick release feature!!!

Great info Mr. Stumpy….


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## TheBoxWhisperer (Sep 24, 2012)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Which type of vise is best for an old-timey bench?*
> 
> When you're building a traditional piece of furniture, it makes sense to keep everything… well, traditional. You wouldn't put a digital face on a Townsend clock. But a workbench is different. We built our bench in the Roubo style for its features more than the old-timey tradition. (Watch our 2X6 Roubo woodworking bench videos here) So equipping it with a modern vise isn't sacrilege, it's a no brainer. The only question is, what kind of vise is right for your bench. There are primarily two kinds: face vises, and end vises.
> 
> ...


Lately I've been thinking about moxon front vise and wagon end vise.


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## handsawgeek (Jul 31, 2014)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Which type of vise is best for an old-timey bench?*
> 
> When you're building a traditional piece of furniture, it makes sense to keep everything… well, traditional. You wouldn't put a digital face on a Townsend clock. But a workbench is different. We built our bench in the Roubo style for its features more than the old-timey tradition. (Watch our 2X6 Roubo woodworking bench videos here) So equipping it with a modern vise isn't sacrilege, it's a no brainer. The only question is, what kind of vise is right for your bench. There are primarily two kinds: face vises, and end vises.
> 
> ...


I have a lot of vises…
..but only a couple are for woodworking. The workhorse is an old cast iron vise that I obtained years ago while working for a school district. They were dismantling the wood shops in the high schools, so employees had a crack at picking up some shop tools for little or nothing. It is well worn and was used hard, but it still does the job.
As always, Stumpy, enjoyable, informative read.


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Which type of vise is best for an old-timey bench?*
> 
> When you're building a traditional piece of furniture, it makes sense to keep everything… well, traditional. You wouldn't put a digital face on a Townsend clock. But a workbench is different. We built our bench in the Roubo style for its features more than the old-timey tradition. (Watch our 2X6 Roubo woodworking bench videos here) So equipping it with a modern vise isn't sacrilege, it's a no brainer. The only question is, what kind of vise is right for your bench. There are primarily two kinds: face vises, and end vises.
> 
> ...


Randy- I've seen some really nice looking ones for pretty cheap on ebay lately too.

Doc- I had a Jorgenson on my last bench. Good vise.

Box- I am considering building a Moxon as a portable vise. It would be interesting to see one permanently mounted to the front of the bench.

Ed- Those old cast iron vises take a lickin' and keep on tickin'


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

*Is climb-cutting with a router safe? How to keep your fingers!*

Some good tips about knowing which direction to run a router, and when climb-cutting is not only safe, but useful!





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## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Is climb-cutting with a router safe? How to keep your fingers!*
> 
> Some good tips about knowing which direction to run a router, and when climb-cutting is not only safe, but useful!
> 
> ...


Safe as using a radial arm saw :>/

I climb cut all the time. Most of the time when I'm doing a profile like a roman ogee or any other decorative profile, it helps remove the bulk of the material and prevents the splintering. Sometime I climb cut two or three passes depending on what I'm cutting.
Like doing any procedure, It depends on your experience and knowledge taking everything into consideration as your making the cut. You have to be able to read the cut as your making it. If your reading it right, it can be safe.


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Is climb-cutting with a router safe? How to keep your fingers!*
> 
> Some good tips about knowing which direction to run a router, and when climb-cutting is not only safe, but useful!
> 
> ...


I rarely do climb cut. However, since I do a lot with Beetle Kill Pine and red cedar, multiple passes and great caution must be used on the edges.

Good video sir.


----------



## Festus56 (Jan 14, 2015)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Is climb-cutting with a router safe? How to keep your fingers!*
> 
> Some good tips about knowing which direction to run a router, and when climb-cutting is not only safe, but useful!
> 
> ...


Great video !!! I do that all the time with round projects or wild grain wood. It will as you said save your project. It does take a little more time but is worth it. I have even done it when not really needed just to be safe on a nearly complete project.

Like your videos and even after woodworking for 40 years I still learn from them. Keep up the good work!!


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Is climb-cutting with a router safe? How to keep your fingers!*
> 
> Some good tips about knowing which direction to run a router, and when climb-cutting is not only safe, but useful!
> 
> ...


I know all this but haven't had a need to use these tips for many years so it's nice to go over them again and refresh my memory.
Great post! Thanks!


----------



## Desert_Woodworker (Jan 28, 2015)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Is climb-cutting with a router safe? How to keep your fingers!*
> 
> Some good tips about knowing which direction to run a router, and when climb-cutting is not only safe, but useful!
> 
> ...


Great explaination of "climb cut" and visual explaination of how a bit operates.


----------



## dineroenvenezuela (Dec 17, 2016)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Is climb-cutting with a router safe? How to keep your fingers!*
> 
> Some good tips about knowing which direction to run a router, and when climb-cutting is not only safe, but useful!
> 
> ...


Good video


----------



## MadJester (Sep 30, 2011)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Is climb-cutting with a router safe? How to keep your fingers!*
> 
> Some good tips about knowing which direction to run a router, and when climb-cutting is not only safe, but useful!
> 
> ...


Good stuff, thanks Stumpy!


----------



## Mean_Dean (Oct 13, 2009)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Is climb-cutting with a router safe? How to keep your fingers!*
> 
> Some good tips about knowing which direction to run a router, and when climb-cutting is not only safe, but useful!
> 
> ...


Great video on climb cutting-unfortunately I've learned all these lessons the hard way…......!


----------



## rhybeka (Nov 8, 2009)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Is climb-cutting with a router safe? How to keep your fingers!*
> 
> Some good tips about knowing which direction to run a router, and when climb-cutting is not only safe, but useful!
> 
> ...


that's awesome stumpy! I don't use my router enough so I've bookmarked your video  The visuals are a huge help!


----------



## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Is climb-cutting with a router safe? How to keep your fingers!*
> 
> Some good tips about knowing which direction to run a router, and when climb-cutting is not only safe, but useful!
> 
> ...


Thanks for the comments!


----------



## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Is climb-cutting with a router safe? How to keep your fingers!*
> 
> Some good tips about knowing which direction to run a router, and when climb-cutting is not only safe, but useful!
> 
> ...


I'm with Beka, and don't use the router much. I once marked my router with an arrow to indicate either direction of rotation or travel. It's been so long I've forgotten which. Maybe this video will remind me. Thanks Stumpy!


----------



## MontanaBob (Jan 19, 2011)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Is climb-cutting with a router safe? How to keep your fingers!*
> 
> Some good tips about knowing which direction to run a router, and when climb-cutting is not only safe, but useful!
> 
> ...


Outstanding video…


----------



## rfbilliards (May 21, 2017)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Is climb-cutting with a router safe? How to keep your fingers!*
> 
> Some good tips about knowing which direction to run a router, and when climb-cutting is not only safe, but useful!
> 
> ...


I climb cut pretty much all the time. I have had to many tear outs with push cuts so I practiced and became comfortable with climb cutting. Once you get used to what the router wants to do on a climb cut it is not bad at all. The only thing is that you need to play closer attention to what you are doing. If not it will take you for one hell of a ride!!

RFCB


----------



## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

*How to cut a tapered sliding dovetail with a router- the EASY way!*

Sliding dovetails are super strong, and they look better than dados. But a lot of woodworkers are intimidated by them. Not anymore! This method is easy, and the tapered form slides together MUCH better than a standard one!






Subscribe to Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Journal- our free monthly digital magazine, and WIN FREE TOOLS!


----------



## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

StumpyNubs said:


> *How to cut a tapered sliding dovetail with a router- the EASY way!*
> 
> Sliding dovetails are super strong, and they look better than dados. But a lot of woodworkers are intimidated by them. Not anymore! This method is easy, and the tapered form slides together MUCH better than a standard one!
> 
> ...


Uhhh? Stumpster, where's the vid?
Bill


----------



## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

StumpyNubs said:


> *How to cut a tapered sliding dovetail with a router- the EASY way!*
> 
> Sliding dovetails are super strong, and they look better than dados. But a lot of woodworkers are intimidated by them. Not anymore! This method is easy, and the tapered form slides together MUCH better than a standard one!
> 
> ...


It's there on my screen. LumberJocks must be having issues again… Here's a link to it on YouTube.


----------



## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

StumpyNubs said:


> *How to cut a tapered sliding dovetail with a router- the EASY way!*
> 
> Sliding dovetails are super strong, and they look better than dados. But a lot of woodworkers are intimidated by them. Not anymore! This method is easy, and the tapered form slides together MUCH better than a standard one!
> 
> ...


Good video Stumpy! Using the shim is a great idea. If I may, here is a way to avoid having to eyeball the shim on the socket half (hope this makes sense):

1. Make the dado and first dovetail pass as described.
2. Before releasing the fence clamp, place a reference block against the fence on the end where the shim will be placed.
3. Clamp the reference block to the table - make sure it is snug against the fence.
4. Release the fence clamp as shown.
5. Place the shim between the fence and the reference block.
6. Position the fence forcing the shim snug to the reference block.
7. Clamp the fence in place.
8. Remove the reference block.

This should ensure a more accurate match of the taper angle between the socket and dovetails halves. The fit still needs to be adjusted as in the video.


----------



## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

StumpyNubs said:


> *How to cut a tapered sliding dovetail with a router- the EASY way!*
> 
> Sliding dovetails are super strong, and they look better than dados. But a lot of woodworkers are intimidated by them. Not anymore! This method is easy, and the tapered form slides together MUCH better than a standard one!
> 
> ...


That's a good idea. Thanks!


----------



## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

StumpyNubs said:


> *How to cut a tapered sliding dovetail with a router- the EASY way!*
> 
> Sliding dovetails are super strong, and they look better than dados. But a lot of woodworkers are intimidated by them. Not anymore! This method is easy, and the tapered form slides together MUCH better than a standard one!
> 
> ...


Happy to help!


----------



## Mean_Dean (Oct 13, 2009)

StumpyNubs said:


> *How to cut a tapered sliding dovetail with a router- the EASY way!*
> 
> Sliding dovetails are super strong, and they look better than dados. But a lot of woodworkers are intimidated by them. Not anymore! This method is easy, and the tapered form slides together MUCH better than a standard one!
> 
> ...


Great informative video-thanks!


----------



## SCengineer (Apr 26, 2011)

StumpyNubs said:


> *How to cut a tapered sliding dovetail with a router- the EASY way!*
> 
> Sliding dovetails are super strong, and they look better than dados. But a lot of woodworkers are intimidated by them. Not anymore! This method is easy, and the tapered form slides together MUCH better than a standard one!
> 
> ...


Great video and information.


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

StumpyNubs said:


> *How to cut a tapered sliding dovetail with a router- the EASY way!*
> 
> Sliding dovetails are super strong, and they look better than dados. But a lot of woodworkers are intimidated by them. Not anymore! This method is easy, and the tapered form slides together MUCH better than a standard one!
> 
> ...


You're a man with much knowledge Stumps. Carry on.


----------



## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

*How to make fancy crown moldings with common router bits*

Most woodworkers look at their router bits and see a few profiles. I look at my bits and see endless possibilities! Learn how to get a lot more from the bits you already have!






Subscribe to Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Journal- our free monthly digital magazine, and WIN FREE TOOLS!


----------



## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

StumpyNubs said:


> *How to make fancy crown moldings with common router bits*
> 
> Most woodworkers look at their router bits and see a few profiles. I look at my bits and see endless possibilities! Learn how to get a lot more from the bits you already have!
> 
> ...


Great vid Stumpy. I've been building moldings using various sections of router bits for years.

Here's an example.


----------



## Sawdustonmyshoulder (Jun 19, 2008)

StumpyNubs said:


> *How to make fancy crown moldings with common router bits*
> 
> Most woodworkers look at their router bits and see a few profiles. I look at my bits and see endless possibilities! Learn how to get a lot more from the bits you already have!
> 
> ...


thanks to the Stumpster!!!


----------



## canadianchips (Mar 12, 2010)

StumpyNubs said:


> *How to make fancy crown moldings with common router bits*
> 
> Most woodworkers look at their router bits and see a few profiles. I look at my bits and see endless possibilities! Learn how to get a lot more from the bits you already have!
> 
> ...


Back in late seventies and Early 80 the work I did for people always had my own brand of mouldings. I always like to give them something that no one else could buy from a store. Doing a combination of passes and bits.
Sometimes it took more material. 
Back then they didnt have as many profile mouldings in lumberyards either. Like NOW !


----------



## canadianchips (Mar 12, 2010)

StumpyNubs said:


> *How to make fancy crown moldings with common router bits*
> 
> Most woodworkers look at their router bits and see a few profiles. I look at my bits and see endless possibilities! Learn how to get a lot more from the bits you already have!
> 
> ...


A few basic moulding planes do the same thing….multiple passes, angles,etc.


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

StumpyNubs said:


> *How to make fancy crown moldings with common router bits*
> 
> Most woodworkers look at their router bits and see a few profiles. I look at my bits and see endless possibilities! Learn how to get a lot more from the bits you already have!
> 
> ...


I miss your music from your first videos


----------



## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

*Board stretchers DO exist! See how to make a work piece longer!*

Make your lumber go farther- literally, with this board lengthening technique! (Click here to make a board thicker too.)





View on YouTube

Subscribe to Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Journal- our free monthly digital magazine, and WIN FREE TOOLS!


----------



## steliart (Jan 15, 2011)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Board stretchers DO exist! See how to make a work piece longer!*
> 
> Make your lumber go farther- literally, with this board lengthening technique! (Click here to make a board thicker too.)
> 
> ...


It's always nice when you remind us forgotten technics James, thanx !


----------



## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Board stretchers DO exist! See how to make a work piece longer!*
> 
> Make your lumber go farther- literally, with this board lengthening technique! (Click here to make a board thicker too.)
> 
> ...


Great video!


----------



## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Board stretchers DO exist! See how to make a work piece longer!*
> 
> Make your lumber go farther- literally, with this board lengthening technique! (Click here to make a board thicker too.)
> 
> ...


I watched both videos. Gripping drama with great lessons learned.

Good tips to keep in mind sir.


----------



## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Board stretchers DO exist! See how to make a work piece longer!*
> 
> Make your lumber go farther- literally, with this board lengthening technique! (Click here to make a board thicker too.)
> 
> ...


Thanks Monte, Steve and Stelios!


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Board stretchers DO exist! See how to make a work piece longer!*
> 
> Make your lumber go farther- literally, with this board lengthening technique! (Click here to make a board thicker too.)
> 
> ...


James, aka Stumpy,
Have a cold one you earned it my friend. Always innovating. Thanks!


----------



## Mean_Dean (Oct 13, 2009)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Board stretchers DO exist! See how to make a work piece longer!*
> 
> Make your lumber go farther- literally, with this board lengthening technique! (Click here to make a board thicker too.)
> 
> ...


I've seen this technique before, but it never hurts to be reminded of the basics-thanks for posting!


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Board stretchers DO exist! See how to make a work piece longer!*
> 
> Make your lumber go farther- literally, with this board lengthening technique! (Click here to make a board thicker too.)
> 
> ...


yeppers. thnx for this James


----------



## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

*Make a board look THICKER without changing the end-grain appearance! *

Make your lumber look THICKER with this board thickening technique! (Click here to make a board longer too.)





View on YouTube

Subscribe to Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Journal- our free monthly digital magazine, and WIN FREE TOOLS!


----------



## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Make a board look THICKER without changing the end-grain appearance! *
> 
> Make your lumber look THICKER with this board thickening technique! (Click here to make a board longer too.)
> 
> ...


I laughed, u cried. It was good for me.

Yes, it's a tip I will use.


----------



## DonBroussard (Mar 27, 2012)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Make a board look THICKER without changing the end-grain appearance! *
> 
> Make your lumber look THICKER with this board thickening technique! (Click here to make a board longer too.)
> 
> ...


Good tip, Stumpy! Looks like another good one from the workshop.


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Make a board look THICKER without changing the end-grain appearance! *
> 
> Make your lumber look THICKER with this board thickening technique! (Click here to make a board longer too.)
> 
> ...


Great tip. I can use this on a project now.


----------



## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Make a board look THICKER without changing the end-grain appearance! *
> 
> Make your lumber look THICKER with this board thickening technique! (Click here to make a board longer too.)
> 
> ...


Thanks Monte, Don and Dave!


----------



## Mean_Dean (Oct 13, 2009)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Make a board look THICKER without changing the end-grain appearance! *
> 
> Make your lumber look THICKER with this board thickening technique! (Click here to make a board longer too.)
> 
> ...


Thanks for the tip! There is a similar technique used to make the arms slant on a slant-arm Morris chair.


----------



## MontanaBob (Jan 19, 2011)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Make a board look THICKER without changing the end-grain appearance! *
> 
> Make your lumber look THICKER with this board thickening technique! (Click here to make a board longer too.)
> 
> ...


I'll have to remember this one….


----------



## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

*How a woodworker shaves (Do not attempt!)*

This is a humorous video we produced for Tormek. It's short, but a lot of fun. I thought you may get a kick out of it. Enjoy!





View on YouTube

Subscribe to Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Journal- our free monthly digital magazine, and WIN FREE TOOLS!


----------



## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

StumpyNubs said:


> *How a woodworker shaves (Do not attempt!)*
> 
> This is a humorous video we produced for Tormek. It's short, but a lot of fun. I thought you may get a kick out of it. Enjoy!
> 
> ...


Love it. True woodworkers indeed.


----------



## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

StumpyNubs said:


> *How a woodworker shaves (Do not attempt!)*
> 
> This is a humorous video we produced for Tormek. It's short, but a lot of fun. I thought you may get a kick out of it. Enjoy!
> 
> ...


I use a rasp


----------



## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

StumpyNubs said:


> *How a woodworker shaves (Do not attempt!)*
> 
> This is a humorous video we produced for Tormek. It's short, but a lot of fun. I thought you may get a kick out of it. Enjoy!
> 
> ...


Livin' on the micro-beveled edge, Stumpy!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

StumpyNubs said:


> *How a woodworker shaves (Do not attempt!)*
> 
> This is a humorous video we produced for Tormek. It's short, but a lot of fun. I thought you may get a kick out of it. Enjoy!
> 
> ...


Well you said not to attempt it ….but silly me I did,

I was going well until I got to the sides then I felt something drop …maybe I should take up painting !!










All in humour of course no cause for alarm !!


----------



## papadan (Mar 6, 2009)

StumpyNubs said:


> *How a woodworker shaves (Do not attempt!)*
> 
> This is a humorous video we produced for Tormek. It's short, but a lot of fun. I thought you may get a kick out of it. Enjoy!
> 
> ...


Damn Stumpy, you actually shaved with a plane iron? I never use anything that small, my tough whiskers require a keen edge on my draw knife! Robert, don't put that back on upside down, your hearing will suck! DAMHIKT


----------



## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

StumpyNubs said:


> *How a woodworker shaves (Do not attempt!)*
> 
> This is a humorous video we produced for Tormek. It's short, but a lot of fun. I thought you may get a kick out of it. Enjoy!
> 
> ...


Robert- If you shave your ears, you're doing something wrong.


----------



## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

StumpyNubs said:


> *How a woodworker shaves (Do not attempt!)*
> 
> This is a humorous video we produced for Tormek. It's short, but a lot of fun. I thought you may get a kick out of it. Enjoy!
> 
> ...


Charles/Dan- Someone told me a real man doesn't shave his whiskers. He pounds them in and gnaws them off from the inside.


----------



## MontanaBob (Jan 19, 2011)

StumpyNubs said:


> *How a woodworker shaves (Do not attempt!)*
> 
> This is a humorous video we produced for Tormek. It's short, but a lot of fun. I thought you may get a kick out of it. Enjoy!
> 
> ...


Stumpy, I tried that once. Knocked all teeth out. Now have a mouth full of hair….


----------



## Dark_Lightning (Nov 20, 2009)

StumpyNubs said:


> *How a woodworker shaves (Do not attempt!)*
> 
> This is a humorous video we produced for Tormek. It's short, but a lot of fun. I thought you may get a kick out of it. Enjoy!
> 
> ...


Too cool! I won't be trying it, though.


----------



## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

*Tour the shop of a master woodworker (Charles Neil & a gathering of Lumberjocks)*

Charles Neil, Stumpy Nubs and a bunch of Lumberjocks got together for shindig in the Shenandoah at the workshop of a true master!





View on YouTube

Subscribe to Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Journal- our free monthly digital magazine, and WIN FREE TOOLS!
Charles Neil's website: http://www.cn-woodworking.com/
Stumpy Nubs Lumberjocks Thread: http://lumberjocks.com/topics/155842


----------



## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Tour the shop of a master woodworker (Charles Neil & a gathering of Lumberjocks)*
> 
> Charles Neil, Stumpy Nubs and a bunch of Lumberjocks got together for shindig in the Shenandoah at the workshop of a true master!
> 
> ...


Stumpy, it was a great gathering!


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Tour the shop of a master woodworker (Charles Neil & a gathering of Lumberjocks)*
> 
> Charles Neil, Stumpy Nubs and a bunch of Lumberjocks got together for shindig in the Shenandoah at the workshop of a true master!
> 
> ...


I am so sorry I wasn't able to make it. I'm going to try next year. A super nice video Stumps. Cheers to all who were there.


----------



## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Tour the shop of a master woodworker (Charles Neil & a gathering of Lumberjocks)*
> 
> Charles Neil, Stumpy Nubs and a bunch of Lumberjocks got together for shindig in the Shenandoah at the workshop of a true master!
> 
> ...


It was a lot of fun. I was very impressed with the folks I met there.


----------



## toeachhisown (Eddie) (Mar 30, 2011)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Tour the shop of a master woodworker (Charles Neil & a gathering of Lumberjocks)*
> 
> Charles Neil, Stumpy Nubs and a bunch of Lumberjocks got together for shindig in the Shenandoah at the workshop of a true master!
> 
> ...


man i missed a good one ,next year


----------



## Mean_Dean (Oct 13, 2009)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Tour the shop of a master woodworker (Charles Neil & a gathering of Lumberjocks)*
> 
> Charles Neil, Stumpy Nubs and a bunch of Lumberjocks got together for shindig in the Shenandoah at the workshop of a true master!
> 
> ...


Looks like it was a great outing-I'm glad everyone had fun!

Thanks for posting the video, as it was nice seeing everyone!


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

StumpyNubs said:


> *Tour the shop of a master woodworker (Charles Neil & a gathering of Lumberjocks)*
> 
> Charles Neil, Stumpy Nubs and a bunch of Lumberjocks got together for shindig in the Shenandoah at the workshop of a true master!
> 
> ...


Glad everyone had a good time Jim


----------



## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

*How to get a child in the workshop so he won't grow up dumb.*

A humorous look at today's kids, and a perfect way to save them with woodworking. Enjoy!





View on YouTube

Subscribe to Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Journal- our free monthly digital magazine, and WIN FREE TOOLS!


----------



## Desert_Woodworker (Jan 28, 2015)

StumpyNubs said:


> *How to get a child in the workshop so he won't grow up dumb.*
> 
> A humorous look at today's kids, and a perfect way to save them with woodworking. Enjoy!
> 
> ...


Nice attempt - we need to get the youth introduced into our craft.


----------



## Doe (Aug 26, 2010)

StumpyNubs said:


> *How to get a child in the workshop so he won't grow up dumb.*
> 
> A humorous look at today's kids, and a perfect way to save them with woodworking. Enjoy!
> 
> ...


Congrats Aidan! That's a really nice box.


----------



## Mean_Dean (Oct 13, 2009)

StumpyNubs said:


> *How to get a child in the workshop so he won't grow up dumb.*
> 
> A humorous look at today's kids, and a perfect way to save them with woodworking. Enjoy!
> 
> ...


Gotta get 'em started young!


----------



## Marcalo (Oct 13, 2010)

StumpyNubs said:


> *How to get a child in the workshop so he won't grow up dumb.*
> 
> A humorous look at today's kids, and a perfect way to save them with woodworking. Enjoy!
> 
> ...


Great video! So true about teaching kids a skill! You're right about the dust mask especially if that's spalted maple!


----------



## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

*How to coil a band saw blade without looking like an idiot.*

There are lots of ways to do it, but this is the fastest once you get the hang of it.





View on YouTube

Subscribe to Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Journal- our free monthly digital magazine, and WIN FREE TOOLS!


----------



## DLK (Nov 26, 2014)

StumpyNubs said:


> *How to coil a band saw blade without looking like an idiot.*
> 
> There are lots of ways to do it, but this is the fastest once you get the hang of it.
> 
> ...


Very nice and fortuitous. I'll be moving the band saws to the new shop soon and will need to remove the "blades".


----------



## BurlyBob (Mar 13, 2012)

StumpyNubs said:


> *How to coil a band saw blade without looking like an idiot.*
> 
> There are lots of ways to do it, but this is the fastest once you get the hang of it.
> 
> ...


I'm definitely going to try that tomorrow.


----------



## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

StumpyNubs said:


> *How to coil a band saw blade without looking like an idiot.*
> 
> There are lots of ways to do it, but this is the fastest once you get the hang of it.
> 
> ...


Very good tip.


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

StumpyNubs said:


> *How to coil a band saw blade without looking like an idiot.*
> 
> There are lots of ways to do it, but this is the fastest once you get the hang of it.
> 
> ...


At times I thought I just got lucky getting it on the first try. Now I will remember. Show and tell is the best.


----------



## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

StumpyNubs said:


> *How to coil a band saw blade without looking like an idiot.*
> 
> There are lots of ways to do it, but this is the fastest once you get the hang of it.
> 
> ...


*How to coil a band saw blade without looking like an idiot.*

Easy, make sure nobody is watching


----------



## Ken90712 (Sep 2, 2009)

StumpyNubs said:


> *How to coil a band saw blade without looking like an idiot.*
> 
> There are lots of ways to do it, but this is the fastest once you get the hang of it.
> 
> ...


Thx I'll give it a try, I get so mad when I can't fold a blade at times. It's so easy and yet sometimes so difficult.


----------



## DS (Oct 10, 2011)

StumpyNubs said:


> *How to coil a band saw blade without looking like an idiot.*
> 
> There are lots of ways to do it, but this is the fastest once you get the hang of it.
> 
> ...


Stumpy, I have a 1" re-saw blade that kicks my butt every time I try to fold it. (literally)

My 19" Shop Fox band saw uses a 143" blade and the 1" is very unwieldy. (It fights backs)
It is the only blade that hangs unfolded in my shop right now.

I will try your technique as soon as I get back home tonight. Hopefully I will not need any stitches after it's done.
Thanks for the tip!


----------



## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

StumpyNubs said:


> *How to coil a band saw blade without looking like an idiot.*
> 
> There are lots of ways to do it, but this is the fastest once you get the hang of it.
> 
> ...





> Stumpy, I have a 1" re-saw blade that kicks my butt every time I try to fold it…
> 
> - DS


With larger blades, you will have to get the hang of whipping it downward as you cross your hands so that the momentum of the blade moving downward will fold it. And be careful to keep your arms sufficiently away from your body, or the bottom of the blade will catch you in the giblets when it folds up from below  (Wear loves and safety glasses too.)


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## Desert_Woodworker (Jan 28, 2015)

StumpyNubs said:


> *How to coil a band saw blade without looking like an idiot.*
> 
> There are lots of ways to do it, but this is the fastest once you get the hang of it.
> 
> ...


Stumpy, you are the "magician" but you shared your secrets… unlike making "Chip" appear under the 
magician's cape… 
ps Would this be the appriote place to request on Chip and Mike whereabouts? 
Best to you-


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## DS (Oct 10, 2011)

StumpyNubs said:


> *How to coil a band saw blade without looking like an idiot.*
> 
> There are lots of ways to do it, but this is the fastest once you get the hang of it.
> 
> ...


Well, the 1" went back onto the Band saw, so I didn't get to try it on that blade yet.

The technique works pretty well an a 3/16" blade though.

Again, thanks for the tip.


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