# Best material for DIY table saw zero clearance insert



## NotaJock (May 23, 2015)

I've tried 3/4" particle board and 1/2" oak pallet boards but found both have too much give.
I'm wondering what have others had good luck with.
I've an old 10" Craftsman if that makes a difference.
Thanks,


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## DonBroussard (Mar 27, 2012)

I made some ZCIs out of laminate flooring, and they've held up pretty well. BTW, I have a Craftsman 113 model saw.


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## woodbutcherbynight (Oct 21, 2011)

Laminate flooring works, I used maple on my Delta never had any issues, same with bandsaw.


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## WesternRevival (Feb 14, 2015)

I used MDF 3/4" ultra light for mine. Old Delta Uni Saw…. no problems


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## JBrow (Nov 18, 2015)

NotaJock,

The throat on my saw is 14-1/2" x 4" and I have had no flexing problems with ½" plywood inserts. The plywood is ok, but I really do not like my inserts much. It seems these plywood inserts do not lay perfectly flat, maybe due to the grade I used. One of these days I will re-make a few inserts to replace the plywood. I will probably opt for MDF since I have no laminate flooring lying around and MDF stays pretty flat. But the slick surface on prefinished flooring is an attractive feature for an insert.

Ever since a home center (it has been too long to remember which store) refused to cut a piece of particle board for me on their panel saw, I avoid particle board whenever I can. They claimed it dulled their blades; I guess it is true.

I do not recall the Craftsman saw. My saw has several tabs integrated into the cast iron top on which the insert sets. I ensure the insert sets below the table surface and add leveling screws to the insert to get it dead flush with the table.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

Phenolic is flat, smooth, really strong, stable, and machines well…..smells bad when machined though! Otherwise, it's darn near perfect.


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

I second phenolic. I think Corian would work well also. Another one I have used is Baltic Birch with a HP laminate on BOTH sides.


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

I have used UHMW "plastic" from cutting boards, and Corian for mine with excellent results.
Bill


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## DalyArcher (May 3, 2015)

MDF for mine. Always have a few extras, thin kerf vs thick kerf vs dado…


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## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

My Unisaur takes 1/2" thick inserts. I tried melamine covered particleboard, flat and slick but chipped easily. I tried Oak (red), but also chipped near the front of the blade slot. Currently I'm using BB plywood. This is best of the other materials I have tried. It still chips, but not as bad. Some slight issues with flatness.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Best? I don't know, phenolic or aluminum. I've been using 1/2" MDF and it's fine, no complaints. But I might try laminate flooring since it's more rigid and slicker; it's also thinner so I'd have to use longer set screws. Someone made inserts with replaceable front inserts so you don't have to replace the whole thing when it gets wallowed out.


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## xeddog (Mar 2, 2010)

I have made a few from different materials. The first one I made was from maple. It was good for a while but then it started having some problems with bowing with seasonal changes in temp and humidity. Not a log, but enough. I made a couple with MDF and they were fine for a whole too, but that material seem a little soft and damaged easily. It also seemed like it absorbed moisture from the air and would swell a tad, but never did shrink back down when dried so I had to "fiddle" with it sometimes. I tried plywood (not Baltic Birch) so it had stability problems and was quickly tossed. Then I happened onto some Corian and have a few made from that. The have been the best for me so far, but as noted they can chip easily on the front edge of the slot. Especially if you put them in upside down which is easy to do on my PM66. My next ones will probably be some laminated BB plywood to see how they work. Someday.

Wayne.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

1/2" mdf with Formica on both sides. They are durable and long lasting. Threaded inserts with set screws make great levelers.


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

> 1/2" mdf with Formica on both sides. They are durable and long lasting. Threaded inserts with set screws make great levelers.
> 
> - pintodeluxe


Ditto for me. The first one I made I only put formica on top and it developed a bow. I've made 3 since then with laminate on both sides for different purposes and they have all remained flat.


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## NotaJock (May 23, 2015)

Thanks for the input fellows.
I see Laminate flooring at the swapmeet every once in a while, I'll grab some next time.
I've a couple of small pieces Phenolic, I'll give that a try.
Don't have any Corian or Formica, will have to try to chase some down.
Appreciate the ideas.


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## stevematis (Mar 23, 2009)

I used laminate floor material, but partially covered the table saw, I used flat head screws to hold it to the table.
I added a fence extension, which was above the the laminate floor sheet.
I have couple of sheets for different blade angle.


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

I use 1/2" OSB faced with plastic laminate on both sides.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Old thread but in my post above I said I would try laminate flooring and since then did. It was a good quality flooring but didn't work out due to being too flexible which led to blade chatter and cut quality problems. I switched to 5/8" shelving board covered in melamine or whatever and it works perfectly. To thin the bottom I stand the insert on edge and run a kerf down each side until the thickness on the perimeter is 1/2".


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

Alder


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

> Alder
> - TheFridge


Great for little bundles of kindling.


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

Have many different species of inserts!


Paperstone, 1/2" 
Masonite, hardboard, 1/4" 
UHMW plastic, 3/8"

And my old original equipment metal one that I use when cutting pallet or other salvaged wood.
I like the UHMW one the best but it is expensive compared to the others.


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