# Shaper Origin



## RichT

Quick question. I have in my possession a Shaper Origin and am diving in deep to learn its capabilities.

Is there any interest in something like a blog series where I share what I'm learning? I don't want to invest a lot of time if no one reads it.

This thread got legs, so let's keep it going. Meanwhile, I did begin a blog series here.


----------



## woodbutcherbynight

Certainly a intriguing piece of equipment. Seems quite versatile, never mind the expensive part. I would be interested in such a blog.


----------



## pottz

ive looked at it before wondering if it's a tool that made sense for me to own.id follow your blog,go for it.


----------



## LeeRoyMan

I'd check it out just to watch.
I doubt I would ever spend the money on one for what I do, but I always like to watch.
(At least this time it won't be through a window) :>/


----------



## Andybb

Go for it. Always thought that it was an interesting machine in the "can't justify a Festool" category for me but like Jimmy Swaggart, I'd like to watch.  I need a CNC and maybe, based on the small footprint it might be worth a look.


----------



## pottz

alright rich looks like a crowd is gathering time to start the show.


----------



## RichT

Since we have a thread going, I'll use it instead of doing a blog.

It's an interesting tool. I see three main buyers: Guys with more money than sense who will want one simply because it'll be a cool addition to their systainer collection (which is likely devoid of any sawdust); A production shop could benefit by being able to use less experienced workers (less pay) to turn out accurate mill work. All it takes is a couple of hours of training; Finally there are the guys like us, who are fascinated by new tools and who, if they bought one, would use it to its fullest.

A key benefit is the consistency you get from its concept of a workspace. Once it learns the workspace from the dotted tapes, it's there for good. You can turn the Shaper off, pull the motor, change bits and go back to work in exactly the same area. For instance, if you are making a cutout for an insert like a bow tie, you might start with an 1/8 inch bit for the outline in order to get the smallest radius at the tips, so you have less to do to get a good fit. In fact, you could design the cut pattern for the bow tie itself to include a 1/16" radius on the tips when it's cut.

Because the workspace hasn't changed, you can then switch to a larger diameter bit to clear out the field. It will still know exactly where it is in the workspace, and the cutout will be perfect. You can't go outside its range during the cut or it'll abort and instantly retract. That's no big deal though because all that's needed to get going again is to position the tool back in the cut lane and press the cut button. It knows where it is in the workspace and will continue the cut along the exact same path it was on before.

Another technique I use quite a bit is its offset feature. Say you're cutting a tenon on the end of a rail or apron. Because it's a 1/4" shank, you get some vibration and imperfect cut faces, like on the face of the tenon itself. To deal with that, you can set an offset of maybe 0.02 inches outside the line while you make the cuts a quarter-inch or so deeper per pass, until you get the length tenon you want. At that point, you simply set the offset back to zero and make a final cleanup pass around the tenon and it's flawless. Doing those multiple passes is easy too, because it only involves stopping the cut making a couple of key presses on the touch-screen and restarting the cut, now 1/4" deeper. Takes all of about 10 seconds.

I'll be spending most of my time using it with a workstation to manage the pieces while they're milled. You could, however, use it to do a cutout for a 12 foot team logo in the floor of a basketball court. Just buy lots of tape.

There's lots more going on. Their workstation looks slick, but at $400, is too steep for me. I've built one that does everything it does. I had V 1.0 up and running for a week and found some things lacking. I redesigned some parts and V 1.1 is gluing up in the shop right now. I'll post a photo later today or tomorrow. V 2.0 will be a complete rebuild made of quilted maple with ebony accents.


----------



## AlaskaGuy

Rich, that might be the tool for making juice groves on cutting boards of irregular shapes.


----------



## RichT

> Rich, that might be the tool for making juice groves on cutting boards of irregular shapes.
> 
> - AlaskaGuy


For sure, AG. You could do any pattern, like those fish bone looking ones that are a string of smaller and smaller chevrons with a spine down the middle. That would look beautiful displayed under a black velvet Elvis painting.


----------



## RichT

One thing that comes to mind I need to point out is that there is no z-axis control when cutting. You set the depth, start the cut and it goes to that depth and stays there. It's incredibly accurate though. One of the little starter projects is to cut a mortise for a flush ring pull. The cut depth for the outer flange is 0.07". You just set that on the touchscreen and cut. It's exact too, down to the thousandth.

As far as the tool goes, there's no reason they couldn't do a firmware update with the ability to read a 3D file format and do cuts with a varying depth. The SVG files it uses now are 2D.

Here's the flush pull ring in a photo from their web site. I'll post my own later:


----------



## AlaskaGuy

> Rich, that might be the tool for making juice groves on cutting boards of irregular shapes.
> 
> - AlaskaGuy
> 
> For sure, AG. You could do any pattern, like those fish bone looking ones that are a string of smaller and smaller chevrons with a spine down the middle. That would look beautiful displayed under a black velvet Elvis painting.
> 
> - Rich


 Elvis painting! That's what my shop has been missing all these years.


----------



## JohnMcClure

Rich, thanks for starting this thread.
At this point I'd be in "category 1" if I bought one, but as time goes by I'll be looking for excuses to place myself in "category 3", and if I can make a good enough business case I'll hop on board.

While I haven't seen the workstation for it, I'm guessing you can clamp the ends of stiles end-grain-up into the workstation, and cut a tenon from the end, using the shaper? That would be pretty awesome.


----------



## pottz

> Rich, that might be the tool for making juice groves on cutting boards of irregular shapes.
> 
> - AlaskaGuy
> 
> For sure, AG. You could do any pattern, like those fish bone looking ones that are a string of smaller and smaller chevrons with a spine down the middle. That would look beautiful displayed under a black velvet Elvis painting.
> 
> - Rich
> 
> Elvis painting! That s what my shop has been missing all these years.
> 
> - AlaskaGuy


i like a matador on velvet myself,more macho !


----------



## dschlic1

I purchased it because I don't have room for a traditional cnc machine. So a third category would be extra small work shops.

I use mine for mainly two uses: Sign making and joinery. When I made the purchase I was thinking inlays, but really haven't done any yet. I would think that if you are into inlays, this would be an ideal machine. No templates needed! For me it does M&T joinery to the point where I don't need a Domino or a doweling jig.


----------



## EarlS

Rich - I vote for a blog since that is where most of us go looking for this kind of thing. Plus, you can make several "Chapters" in a series and include lots of pictures.

I'm with John. If I can see the value, then I might be inclined to investigate further. At some point, I need a CNC or something like the Origin. Having a blog series would make it a lot easier down the road to find specifics.


----------



## RichT

John, the workstation can be seen here (not shipping yet). I had a failure in my glue up of my workstation V 1.1, so V 1.2 is in the works.

dschlic1, thanks for the input. I was hoping there would be some owners here who can teach me (and all of us) some new tricks. Please jump in anytime.

Earl, I agree with you, but the thread was an easy route to take. Some day when I get motivated, I can formalize the good parts into a blog.


----------



## pottz

just watched the intro vid again,a pretty incredible machine that would eliminate many tools i have already,but is it something i need? im gonna follow your adventure with it and see rich.have fun with your new toy.


----------



## CWWoodworking

Could someone refresh my memory on cost?

I have a bedroom group doing pretty well. I have the whole process down pretty slick. Except for a few curved parts, which I currently cut on a bandsaw or sub out to a cnc guy.

He is a pic of night stand and headboard. Would it cut the curved wood parts with any speed?


----------



## pottz

> Could someone refresh my memory on cost?
> 
> I have a bedroom group doing pretty well. I have the whole process down pretty slick. Except for a few curved parts, which I currently cut on a bandsaw or sub out to a cnc guy.
> 
> He is a pic of night stand and headboard. Would it cut the curved wood parts with any speed?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - CWWoodworking


click on the workstation rich highlighted it will take you to there web page with videos and prices.


----------



## RichT

It sells for $2,499. The workstation is an additional $399. It comes with a 1/4" bit, a 1/8" bit and a 60º V bit. To do any serious work, you'll need others. Since it's limited to 1/4" shanks, most bits I'm having to purchase again because mine are mostly 1/2".


----------



## CWWoodworking

Watched a video. Seems like with 1/4" bits, light passes are must? So for 3/4 stock, 3 passes?


----------



## RichT

> Watched a video. Seems like with 1/4" bits, light passes are must? So for 3/4 stock, 3 passes?
> 
> - CWWoodworking


Yep. Really it's four. As I wrote above, to ensure a perfectly clean cut, I do the bulk of the stock removal with an offset of around 0.02. When the stock is all removed, I set the offset to 0 and do a final pass.

Frankly, if I were building what you are, I'd stick with the band saw to rough it out and finish it with a template and flush trim bit (with a 1/2" shank).


----------



## dschlic1

One use for the Origin is to make templates. Just cut them out and they are ready to go. If you are doing production work, this is the recommended work flow. Also as templates are easily made, when one gets abused, then it is easy to make an exact duplicate. This allows the templates to be made from a cheaper, less durable material.


----------



## RichT

> One use for the Origin is to make templates. Just cut them out and they are ready to go. If you are doing production work, this is the recommended work flow. Also as templates are easily made, when one gets abused, then it is easy to make an exact duplicate. This allows the templates to be made from a cheaper, less durable material.
> 
> - dschlic1


That sort of practical information is what we need.


----------



## pottz

> One use for the Origin is to make templates. Just cut them out and they are ready to go. If you are doing production work, this is the recommended work flow. Also as templates are easily made, when one gets abused, then it is easy to make an exact duplicate. This allows the templates to be made from a cheaper, less durable material.
> 
> - dschlic1
> 
> That sort of practical information is what we need.
> 
> - Rich


yeah im very interested in what this tool will do,the more abilities the better.


----------



## RichT

> yeah im very interested in what this tool will do,the more abilities the better.
> 
> - pottz


For me, pottz, the big issue as I evaluate this tool is that I'm already invested in much of what it does.

Someone just starting out could justify its cost. It can perform the function of a Leigh or Porter Cable dovetail jig. It can replace the Incra iBox box joint jig. As dschlic1 pointed out, it can cut templates. That alone is huge, since you don't have a practical limit on size, you could take a sheet of 1/4" MDF, tape it up with their dot pattern tape which defines the workspace, and cut a full 96" pattern out of it that's ready to use with your trim bit. No band saw and oscillating spindle sander needed to trim it flush.

For now I have one to use for free. Someday when I'm an older fart, I'm thinking towards downsizing with the Festool MFT. The Shaper could be a part of that scenario. We'll see.


----------



## pottz

> yeah im very interested in what this tool will do,the more abilities the better.
> 
> - pottz
> 
> For me, pottz, the big issue as I evaluate this tool is that I m already invested in much of what it does.
> 
> Someone just starting out could justify its cost. It can perform the function of a Leigh or Porter Cable dovetail jig. It can replace the Incra iBox box joint jig. As dschlic1 pointed out, it can cut templates. That alone is huge, since you don t have a practical limit on size, you could take a sheet of 1/4" MDF, tape it up with their dot pattern tape which defines the workspace, and cut a full 96" pattern out of it that s ready to use with your trim bit. No band saw and oscillating spindle sander needed to trim it flush.
> 
> For now I have one to use for free. Someday when I m an older fart, I m thinking towards downsizing with the Festool MFT. The Shaper could be a part of that scenario. We ll see.
> 
> - Rich


use it for free,i need to get to know your friends-lol.


----------



## LeeRoyMan

> Someday when I m an older fart….
> 
> - Rich


Ummm,

Did you figure out how to work that thing yet? Waiting for some action.
Look out the window there are about 600 people lining up to watch…


----------



## RichT

> Ummm,
> 
> Did you figure out how to work that thing yet? Waiting for some action.
> Look out the window there are about 600 people lining up to watch…
> 
> - LeeRoyMan


Keep your pants on. Actually, the current delay posting a photo of my "workstation" is due to the total mess that's on my bench and would spoil any photo.

I haven't given up on the thread.


----------



## CWWoodworking

Where does money come into play for everyone?

At 3g, it's not THAT far from "real" cnc options. While Those options may not be as versatile, you wouldn't have to do things by hand.


----------



## pottz

> Where does money come into play for everyone?
> 
> At 3g, it's not THAT far from "real" cnc options. While Those options may not be as versatile, you wouldn't have to do things by hand.
> 
> - CWWoodworking


money wise yes but it does take up less space and it still gives you a feel that your still doing the work.and can a cnc for the home shop do tenons like the shaper?


----------



## RichT

> Where does money come into play for everyone?
> 
> At 3g, it's not THAT far from "real" cnc options. While Those options may not be as versatile, you wouldn't have to do things by hand.
> 
> - CWWoodworking


They're really two different things. For production work, CNC will beat it for sure. For things like edge joinery, or large inlays, the Shaper is the best tool.

As I mentioned, the Shaper does not have z-axis control during the cut. You set the depth and that's it. It has the capability to do some z-axis control if the firmware is updated to read 3D files. The hardware is there already. Right now for instance, if you're cutting fonts, they'll be straight-walled. You can't have the cut lift out for serifs to get a hand-carved look.


----------



## woodbutcherbynight

I gotta make a popcorn and beer run. Ran out after day 3 of shutdown.


----------



## RichT

> I gotta make a popcorn and beer run. Ran out after day 3 of shutdown.
> 
> - woodbutcherbynight


Dang. Tough audience.


----------



## pottz

> I gotta make a popcorn and beer run. Ran out after day 3 of shutdown.
> 
> - woodbutcherbynight
> 
> Dang. Tough audience.
> 
> - Rich


hell imagine if even half the jocks new what the hell (shaper origin) was,youd be bombarded-lol.


----------



## AlaskaGuy

> I gotta make a popcorn and beer run. Ran out after day 3 of shutdown.
> 
> - woodbutcherbynight
> 
> Dang. Tough audience.
> 
> - Rich
> 
> hell imagine if even half the jocks new what the hell (shaper origin) was,youd be bombarded-lol.
> 
> - pottz


Not to worry, Rich has a tough skin.


----------



## woodbutcherbynight

> I gotta make a popcorn and beer run. Ran out after day 3 of shutdown.
> 
> - woodbutcherbynight
> 
> Dang. Tough audience.
> 
> - Rich


Sorry if that came across wrong, I meant it as this is getting interesting.


----------



## RichT

> Sorry if that came across wrong, I meant it as this is getting interesting.
> 
> - woodbutcherbynight


I'm not offended, gunny. My bad for leaving out a smiley or something. Like AG said, it takes a lot to upset me. Besides, with my legions of haters on LJ, it requires genuine effort to even be a blip on the radar..


----------



## LeeRoyMan

> Sorry if that came across wrong, I meant it as this is getting interesting.
> 
> - woodbutcherbynight
> 
> I m not offended, gunny. My bad for leaving out a smiley or something. Like AG said, it takes a lot to upset me. Besides, with my legions of haters on LJ, it requires genuine effort to even be a blip on the radar..
> 
> - Rich


Now that's an appropriate response when someone apologizes.
A lot of times a person doesn't take the time to reply.
Oh yeah, almost forgot the


----------



## RichT

Most people just starting out with a tool like the Shaper would take it easy at first. A couple of half-laps, maybe a bridle joint, or even some M&Ts.

Well most normal people anyway. But not me. Nope, I committed myself to doing a through dovetail from scratch. I'm using an 8º Freud bit, and modeled the cut paths based on it. The tail board is easy. It's just straight cuts front to back. The pin board seemed a bit more challenging at first, but actually it turned out to be really easy.

I also learned that by doing the tail board first you can use it to test the pin board fit. Simply cut the pins slightly wide and then gradually move the offset towards zero until you have a tight fit. Very easy to control, and also repeatable so future cuts don't require the test fitting.

In the photos, you can see the joint is a little more flush at the bottom than the at the top. I mentioned before that I had a glue up error when I reassembled the workstation. The right side is about 1/16" higher over its 20" span, which is enough to cause the cut depth to vary slightly side-to-side over these 3" wide boards. I need to disassemble the unit and re-glue it properly. I just have to get in the mood. Actually, I need to get going on that since I have my first presentation to do on the unit Wednesday.


----------



## pottz

looks pretty damn good for your first test drive.now im thinking wow do i need one,then i remember ive already got domino,porter cable dovetail jig with all the extras,and a multi router with all the balls and whistles.so lets see ive got about 6k tied up.maybe ill just enjoy watching you play.hey im surprised the duck doeasn't have one of these…...or does he?


----------



## woodbutcherbynight

Rich that looks great for first attempt. Go big or go home?

A member posted this project and said he used a Shaper Origin to do the inlays.

Shaper Origin Project


----------



## RichT

Thanks guys. I'm pretty happy getting all that geometry right. The good thing is that the Shaper will allow you to come back at any time and cut the same dovetail. No test boards needed. Expanding the width is easy too. All you need is one good cut path and you can copy and paste that for any width board.

Oh and btw, the joint was completely flush. I was wrong about the difference in the photo. When you think about it, 1/16" over 20" mapped to 3" is pretty small. Nevertheless, I'll be rebuilding the fixture tomorrow.


----------



## RichT

> Rich that looks great for first attempt. Go big or go home?
> 
> A member posted this project and said he used a Shaper Origin to do the inlays.
> 
> Shaper Origin Project
> 
> - woodbutcherbynight


Thanks, Gunny. Yeah, I saw that project. From looking around LJ, it seems there are quite a few using the Shaper. Maybe they'll join the thread eventually and share their experiences.


----------



## DS

> Could someone refresh my memory on cost?
> 
> I have a bedroom group doing pretty well. I have the whole process down pretty slick. Except for a few curved parts, which I currently cut on a bandsaw or sub out to a cnc guy.
> 
> He is a pic of night stand and headboard. Would it cut the curved wood parts with any speed?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - CWWoodworking


I bought a CNC shaper back around 2001 for a shop that made custom doors.
You had different virtual templates in a self contained computer with a touch screen that defined the profile parameters.
Just place a random sized part on the table against a fence and press start.

It clamps the peice, measures it with a laser, calculates the profile to fit that size piece, then selects the tool and cuts it to a perfect fit in about twelve seconds.

Unique machine and tool.
Demo video;
http://www.uniquemachine.com/2681M_CNC.html

The machine is around $95k, (price may have changed in the last 20 years), but pays for itself in no time in a production setting.

EDIT:

Okay, I just checked pricing. The machine as configured in the video is $165k.
20 years ago, with a precursor to this machine, we paid about $88k.

Still $2750/ month on a 5 year lease is probably about what you are paying that guy to bandsaw the parts right now - only he probably isn't making 200 perfect pieces a day for that money.

Just sayin'…


----------



## RichT

> I bought a CNC shaper back around 2001 for a shop that made custom doors.
> 
> - DS


The thread is about the Shaper Origin, not a $165K CNC machine.


----------



## pottz

> I bought a CNC shaper back around 2001 for a shop that made custom doors.
> 
> - DS
> 
> The thread is about the Shaper Origin, not a $165K CNC machine.
> 
> - Rich


are you sure rich, i swore you were talking about cnc's.im outta here! ;-)


----------



## RichT

> are you sure rich, i swore you were talking about cnc s.im outta here! ;-)
> 
> - pottz


I've been waiting for someone to ask if using it is real woodworking.


----------



## pottz

> are you sure rich, i swore you were talking about cnc s.im outta here! ;-)
> 
> - pottz
> 
> I ve been waiting for someone to ask if using it is real woodworking.
> 
> - Rich


well thats up to each his own.im too damn old to chop down a tree and get the buck saw out and hand slice boards,the hand plane each one to some what perfection.ok so weve now spent an entire day to make one one rough sawn board!!!! ya get where im comin from.

shaper origin is just another tool to achieve the result were after.the hand tool guys can enjoy their hours upon hours of enjoyment if they want,life is too short for me to waste that much time to get the result i want.

to each his own to find their own nervana-peace my friends.


----------



## woodbutcherbynight

> are you sure rich, i swore you were talking about cnc s.im outta here! ;-)
> 
> - pottz
> 
> I ve been waiting for someone to ask if using it is real woodworking.
> 
> - Rich


Yeah hopefully the thread doesn't devolve into that. While I may not be able to afford much till last payment to ex in 19 months. After that I might. Well after the big party and all.


----------



## pottz

> are you sure rich, i swore you were talking about cnc s.im outta here! ;-)
> 
> - pottz
> 
> I ve been waiting for someone to ask if using it is real woodworking.
> 
> - Rich
> 
> Yeah hopefully the thread doesn t devolve into that. While I may not be able to afford much till last payment to ex in 19 months. After that I might. Well after the big party and all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - woodbutcherbynight


yeah the thread is about (shaper origin) lets keep it that way.if i want to discuss cnc's ill go to a thread about that.


----------



## RichT

All I know is there's a party at Gunny's in 19 months!!!


----------



## DS

My apologies for posting off topic.
The guy said he wanted to cut arches at speed…. well… this is how I did it before.
Just sayin.

I am curious about the Shaper Origin.

The domino tape has a ink-jet-cartridge-scam vibe to it - A consumable resource that can only be bought from them at a really high mark up.

Hmm (chin scratching)
Can't I just cut wood *without *someone trying to scam me?

I wonder if the dominoes could be projected from above to get the reference points.


----------



## RichT

> The domino tape has a ink-jet-cartridge-scam vibe to it - A consumable resource that can only be bought from them at a really high mark up.
> 
> - DS


No apologies are necessary. I haven't found the tape to be a big expense. It depends on how you work of course, but in general most of my work is done using my makeshift workstation, which doesn't require fresh tape every time I use it. If you're doing inlays in all of your wood floors in the house, then yeah, that's going to take a lot of tape.

The Shaper can maintain multiple workspaces, so anytime you do a scan, it can come back to that same workspace and be ready to cut-assuming your cuts haven't gone through the tape. You don't even have to select it, it will recognize it in its collection of workspaces you've scanned and use it automatically.

And, I can say without hesitation that trying to project the pattern from above won't work. The Shaper has a very bright light that shines out the back to illuminate the tape and would wash out any projected image.


----------



## RichT

I just realized I forgot to add a link to the blog series I started. You can still continue the conversation here, or comment there. Either way is fine.

https://www.lumberjocks.com/RichTaylor/blog/131681


----------



## DS

I've wondered a few times if something like the shaper origin could be used to make timber framing joinery.
It would need some scale appropriate to the size cuts required, but it seems like it could be feasible.

There are massive machines that currently automate this, but they are housed in massive factories.

Something like the shaper origin could be carried onsite and joinery made in the field.

Just thinking out loud…


----------



## RichT

> I've wondered a few times if something like the shaper origin could be used to make timber framing joinery.
> 
> - DS


Keep scale in mind. The Shaper has a small motor with a 1/4" maximum shank diameter, a 1" max cutter diameter and a max depth of cut around 1.75".


----------



## DS

Yes, scale is everything.
It would be the mother of all shaper origins… heheh

I am just thinking about the tech involved. 
Surely it would be a new machine, but I could see a lot of specialized joinery from multiple planes coming out of one of those. 
You would have programs for each face of the joint and would need some way to jig it all in a portable workstation.

The portability aspect of it means you could setup in the field rather than some giant factory.
It would be sweet!


----------



## DS

Rich, 
I am a little curious about your workstation that doesn't need new domino tape every time you use it.
Do you have any pics of that you could post here?

I would like to see how that works.
All the promotional material shows the tape being used on the actual work piece then discarded after use.

Inquiring minds want to know…


----------



## RichT

Glad to. I've been intending to post some photos and appreciate the nudge to get me off my butt and do it.

This is a DIY version of the Shaper Workstation. I'll be receiving one as soon as they ship, which I see is now moved back to November. It originally was scheduled to ship this month.

In the mean time, my version is doing the job pretty well for a quick half-day project. It is all made of MDF and uses the MatchFit hardware for clamping. It's not a precision product like the real Workstation, which is made of milled aluminum, and has very accurate guides for straight and angled cuts, which you can see on their web site, but it's performing quite well anyway.










Please forgive the messy workbench. I could tell you it doesn't usually look like that, but I'd be lying. The tape is permanent-up to a point. You can see in some of the photos that it's starting to wear on the front strips from the Shaper rubbing over it, and eventually will have to be replaced. Only the worn strips will have to be replaced though, and I can just do a fresh scan to update it in the tool. The real workstation has the tape patterns embedded in laminate, and is truly permanent.

There are two ways it's used. One is for edge cutting, and the other is for surface work. The edge cuts would be for something like a M&T joint or a hinge mortise. It does a beautiful job cutting mortises for SOSS hinges. Surface cuts are useful for things like bow tie inserts. You'd likely be cutting the pocket for one on a larger surface, but for cutting out the inserts, it would be handy to do it on the Workstation.










Here it is with a board clamped for an operation like a tenon cut. I made the vertical fence by ripping it wide, then using a board with the dovetail slot cut so that I could rip it to size, keeping the sides straight in reference to the MatchFit holes. By its nature, the MatchFit is pretty much self-centering.










This shows the front support to keep the tool from rolling forward during the cut. It's quite heavily back-weighted, but still, this will keep it level. Again, it's another feature that's included with the Workstation. The little stops you see down near the bottom of the front face make it easy to set it without having to use a straightedge for height. The support itself is 3/4" MDF, so it always gets set to that height such that the support bar is level with the top.










Here is the shelf installed. If you're going to be cutting through the work piece for an insert, you'd attach a spoil board to it, then attach the work piece to the spoil. board.

I included the dog holes for clamping, but 90% of the time, I use double stick tape. Particularly when you cut out inserts, the tape is critical because otherwise, when the piece is cut free, it'll flop around and get damaged, or damage the bit.

You mentioned the cost of the Shaper tape earlier. It's really the double-stick tape which I've found gets used up quickly.

I almost forgot to mention the strip of plywood you see. It's a sacrificial piece, since many cuts require the bit to go outside the back of the work piece, and into it. It's held on with double stick tape. That's why I didn't do the dovetail cuts, since it wouldn't support much weight anyway. You can also see that in messing around with SVG files, I've screwed up and cut through it and into the top. A little epoxy putty took care of it, but I wish I'd made it 3/4" like the production version has. Too late now. I really didn't have to fill it, but did anyway just so it doesn't look all cut up.

I'll follow up with more later with photos of some SOSS hinge mortises and other things.


----------



## woodbutcherbynight

While not machined aluminum and all that your version seems to be doing very well. Might have to consider this as a future tool for shop in Ukraine. Gives me some time to organize how and where to use it.


----------



## RichT

The Shaper Workstation arrived today. I added number 3 in the blog series on the Shaper products to discuss it more there. There's not much content yet, but I'll be adding more as I go along.


----------



## pottz

i think you should have just stuck with this thread,it's got legs,the blog looks deserted rich.


----------



## sansoo22

I've been following both. Not sure why as I can't afford one of these and I get lost with some of the types of joints Rich talks about because I'm a noob but I find it fascinating none the less.


----------



## pottz

> I ve been following both. Not sure why as I can t afford one of these and I get lost with some of the types of joints Rich talks about because I m a noob but I find it fascinating none the less.
> 
> - sansoo22


me too, but hey we can live vicariously through rich,right?


----------



## woodbutcherbynight

> I ve been following both. Not sure why as I can t afford one of these and I get lost with some of the types of joints Rich talks about because I m a noob but I find it fascinating none the less.
> 
> - sansoo22


Stick around, and experiment some on your own. Asks a question if you get frustrated or hung up. Rich and many others are some skilled craftsman. Top it off with they will gladly share what they know and give advice when asked.

Biggest thing, you have to take a risk and branch out. Some do and learn more, others are satisfied with what they already know and works. No harm in either way.


----------



## pottz

> I ve been following both. Not sure why as I can t afford one of these and I get lost with some of the types of joints Rich talks about because I m a noob but I find it fascinating none the less.
> 
> - sansoo22
> 
> Stick around, and experiment some on your own. Asks a question if you get frustrated or hung up. Rich and many others are some skilled craftsman. Top it off with they will gladly share what they know and give advice when asked.
> 
> Biggest thing, you have to take a risk and branch out. Some do and learn more, others are satisfied with what they already know and works. No harm in either way.
> 
> - woodbutcherbynight


hey you dont need to tell me,rich is probably the most miss understood jock on lj's,if you brush him off as a pita you will miss out on a wealth of knowledge.i guess he's like me,we both rub people the wrong way,because they dont or wont take the the time to get and know us.thats forum life,judge first, get to really know later,or not! id say im blessed to take the time and appreciate the man and what he can give me,i hope others are smart enough to do the same.peace jocks.


----------



## woodbutcherbynight

> hey you dont need to tell me,rich is probably the most miss understood jock on lj s,if you brush him off as a pita you will miss out on a wealth of knowledge.i guess he s like me,we both rub people the wrong way,because they dont or wont take the the time to get and know us.thats forum life,judge first, get to really know later,or not! id say im blessed to take the time and appreciate the man and what he can give me,i hope others are smart enough to do the same.peace jocks.
> 
> - pottz


I agree. Might not have ever bothered to look into getting a Origin till RICH came along and showed us what he had been up to.


----------



## sansoo22

I wasn't even aware such a thing existed until this thread. I always assumed when my love of gadgets and tech collided with my new found love of wood working it would be a CNC. I'm kind of thinking I like the Shaper better. I know they don't do the same thing but the complex joints and shapes you can cut with the shaper just have me fascinated.


----------



## pottz

> hey you dont need to tell me,rich is probably the most miss understood jock on lj s,if you brush him off as a pita you will miss out on a wealth of knowledge.i guess he s like me,we both rub people the wrong way,because they dont or wont take the the time to get and know us.thats forum life,judge first, get to really know later,or not! id say im blessed to take the time and appreciate the man and what he can give me,i hope others are smart enough to do the same.peace jocks.
> 
> - pottz
> 
> I agree. Might not have ever bothered to look into getting a Origin till RICH came along and showed us what he had been up to.
> 
> - woodbutcherbynight


i wish more would,but thats their loss!


----------



## RichT

You guys are the best. It really warms my heart to hear your comments. Yeah, pottz, PITA fits…lol Gunny, you're awesome. Thank you all.

I recall the comments in my obituary here when I was banned last year. "He can be a real dick, but…" followed by really nice comments about my contributions. I cracked up.

I'm not here to be warm and cuddly. I like to help people through their learning curve so they can avoid the many mistakes I've made and learned from. I find the misinformation provided by well-meaning, but uninformed members, frustrating sometimes. My comments aren't always diplomatic, but I genuinely care about contributing helpful information.

Still, I wouldn't be where I am today in my woodworking journey if it wasn't for LumberJocks. I've learned more in the past four years on here than I did in the previous forty.


----------



## RichT

> i think you should have just stuck with this thread,it s got legs,the blog looks deserted rich.
> 
> - pottz


I'm going to keep them both going, and include links back and forth to keep them connected. The forum thread keeps it lively, and the blog will document it. Hopefully it all works.


----------



## AlaskaGuy

Yep, a person could learn a lot from Rich


----------



## RichT

> Yep, a person could learn a lot from Rich
> 
> - AlaskaGuy


You too, AG. We got off to a rocky start back in the day, but I quickly developed a great respect for you. I appreciate your kind comment.


----------



## AlaskaGuy

> Yep, a person could learn a lot from Rich
> 
> - AlaskaGuy
> 
> You too, AG. We got off to a rocky start back in the day, but I quickly developed a great respect for you. I appreciate your kind comment.
> 
> - Rich


Some of my best friends and I got off to a rocky start.

Edit to add.

I tend to like people who speak there mind. Not much into politically correctness stuff. When people speak their minds everybody know where everybody stands.


----------



## pottz

> You guys are the best. It really warms my heart to hear your comments. Yeah, pottz, PITA fits…lol Gunny, you re awesome. Thank you all.
> 
> I recall the comments in my obituary here when I was banned last year. "He can be a real dick, but…" followed by really nice comments about my contributions. I cracked up.
> 
> I m not here to be warm and cuddly. I like to help people through their learning curve so they can avoid the many mistakes I ve made and learned from. I find the misinformation provided by well-meaning, but uninformed members, frustrating sometimes. My comments aren t always diplomatic, but I genuinely care about contributing helpful information.
> 
> Still, I wouldn t be where I am today in my woodworking journey if it wasn t for LumberJocks. I ve learned more in the past four years on here than I did in the previous forty.
> 
> - Rich


amen brother,i left my ego when i joined here,and yeah you and i are sometimes the biggest [email protected]#ks on lj's but were real,we dont pretend to be something were not,and thats why ill go down in flames with you if needed my man.so enough sentimentality lets make something my friend!!!!


----------



## pottz

> Yep, a person could learn a lot from Rich
> 
> - AlaskaGuy
> 
> You too, AG. We got off to a rocky start back in the day, but I quickly developed a great respect for you. I appreciate your kind comment.
> 
> - Rich
> 
> Some of my best friends and I got off to a rocky start.
> 
> Edit to add.
> 
> I tend to like people who speak there mind. Not much into politically correctness stuff. When people speak their minds everybody know where everybody stands.
> 
> - AlaskaGuy


+1 ag.you are another rich too me,your not phoeney like many here,trying to impress the newbies with their bs so called knowledge.youve shown me what you can really do that you dont show others,i think it's because of respect,but i wish all could know the real ag and what he can do!!! i liked to thank you both for what youve given me,(and i bow in respect),thank you both.


----------



## RichT

I don't want the thread to get totally off track, but it's clear that there are a few of us who understand one another and are not snowflakes looking for something to be offended by.

I've been accused on here of thinking I know everything. I don't. I just try to stick to topics that I'm familiar with.

Remember papadan's thread about posting based on personal experience? It was a classic. He was another guy I got off on a rocky start with, but came to admire. Sadly, he was banned, and from his comments about his health issues, might not be around period. I hope I'm wrong about that.


----------



## RichT

Anyway, I got some photos of the Shaper Workstation after unpacking it. I'll post them on the blog in a couple of days when I get time and include links here.

First impressions are that it's a beautifully engineered product. The folks at Shaper Tools are really talented.


----------



## Tony_S

> I recall the comments in my obituary here when I was banned last year. "He can be a real dick, but…" followed by really nice comments about my contributions. I cracked up.
> - Rich


Lol! It's a very rare occasion when I can 'respectfully' call someone a real dick


----------



## RichT

> Lol! It s a very rare occasion when I can respectfully call someone a real dick
> 
> - Tony_S


I wasn't going to rat you out, Tony, but that was one of my favorites of all time. I remember reading that to my wife and she almost spit out her coffee. I think she said something like he really knows you, doesn't he.


----------



## RichT

I added a blog entry on using the built-in design tools for the Shaper Origin.


----------



## woodbutcherbynight

> I added a blog entry on using the built-in design tools for the Shaper Origin.
> 
> - Rich


Would have liked to have used it for this project. Bet i could have saved some time.


----------

