# How do I make a long rip cut?



## hjt (Oct 22, 2009)

Hi everyone, Ignoramus here. This is going to sound like such a stupid question to you boys and girls who actually have skills in wood working, so be gentle.

I have a 70 inch board that is 4.25 inches wide. I need to rip this so that it remains 4.25 inches wide at one end and tappers to 4.00 inches wide at the other end.

Could I use my table or Radial Arm Saws to make such a cut? Would you??

I guess I could use my jig saw and a fence but not certain of the quality of the cut. I felt the cut to be to thin to do anything other than a hack job should I use a circ saw (remembering that I have tools, not skills.) I put the Rough in Rough carpentry!

Thank you


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## drewnahant (Dec 10, 2009)

you normally use a table saw for taper cuts, with a taper jig, but for such a long taper, I prefer to use a portable circular saw with a straight edge clamped to the baord to guide the saw.


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## fussy (Jan 18, 2010)

Harold,

BY the time you make a taper jig that long, you could clamp a guide board to it, put a decent blade on your circ saw, and cut it. You don't say what kind of wood it is or what it's for, but I have real good luck getting high-quality cuts guiding my circ saw. Some could do it with a jig saw, a bandsaw would be possible, but the quality would suffer, the neanderthals among us would use a hand plane, but they just LOVE to suffer. I'd just use the circ saw. That way, the work piece doesn't move (it IS a little long to move through a tablesaw unless you have a really nice outfeed table-and you still have to make a big taper jig) make sure your guide is positioned right, and let 'er rip so to speak. If it makes you feel any better, I just did that with a 7' piece of cherry I didn't have room in the shop to rip. Cleaned up the edge on the jointer and it's fine.

Steve
PS The only stupid question is the one you DIDN'T ask.


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## Kindlingmaker (Sep 29, 2008)

If you want to make a rather simple jig/sled, maybe something like this:http://lumberjocks.com/projects/19298
It will cut any angle you set your wood at.


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## jackass (Mar 26, 2008)

*I agree with the guys above. I have done this with a board clamped as a straight edge. Might be worth your while to buy a new blade for your circular saw, I run carbide tipped in mine.
Jack*


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## hjt (Oct 22, 2009)

Wow - 4 out of 4 suggest a circ saw. Guess I'll be clamp a straight edge and ripping with a circ saw. Now decissions - decissions. Do I use my battery op Ridgid or my corded Milwaulkee??? Hmm.

Thanks for your quick replies fellow jocks.

Kindlingmaker - I checked out your sled… WOW!!! Thats neat! As I've stated in many other spots in this site, the skills LJ members have is unreal - and me, I get excited when I cut a straight line.


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

Harold, the Ridgid should be able to do the job. I use mine routinely to break down plywood and it has a better cut and the battery lasts much longer than my Dewalt.

And, if you want a fifth, I would use a circular saw in combination with a straight edge as well to do the cut you are describing.


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## Sailor (Jun 17, 2009)

I would use the corded milwaulkee for sure. The battery op saws never have enough power to cut well enough for me, especially ripping.

If you have decent experience with your circular saw I would suggest popping a line with a chalk line from mark to mark on either end of the board and just taek your time and cut it without a guide. I work construction and run a circular saw quite a bit and this would be a fairly simple cut. Just make sure you have it supported well and clamp it so it doesn't move on your and you should be able to make a good cut. (check to make sure the board is straight first, if it is bowed you may have to copensate)


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## Sailor (Jun 17, 2009)

Scott, just saw your post after mine, I guess you have gotten better results with a battery saw then I have. Maybe I was expecting to much out of the saw and they really are nice tools.


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## hjt (Oct 22, 2009)

Scott - just to clarify, were you stating that you'd be the 5th to recommend the circ saw, or were you suggesting I should have "a 5th" on hand to help me cope with my frustration??? BTW - I like your closing tag lines - God bless you Brother.

Sailor… you have far more run time with your tools then I, my friend. I'm concerned to cut this with just a chalk line and no straight edge to help guide me. If I had plenty of wood on each side of the blade I'd be less apprehensive, but since the cut will be so thin and the run so long (max 1/4 inch of wood tapering to -0- over 70 inches) I'll op for the straight edge (and the 5th suggested by Scott.)


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## greg48 (Nov 7, 2010)

Harold, Like you I never had much luck cutting with a circ. saw even with a clamped fence-to much blade chatter and splintering where the blade exits the wood. Instead, I rough cut with a circ. saw or reciprocating saw proud of the finished line then hand plane to the finish line. Takes a bit longer, but there is nothing as satisfying as a long curl of wood shaving (well almost nothing as satisfying). Good luck to and cut safely.


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## hjt (Oct 22, 2009)

Greg - I don't have a hand planer but do have a jointer/planer. I can see if I used a hand planer, I could plan down certain sections of the edge. Can I use my table jointer/planer to clean up certain sections too - in other words not planning the full 70 inches??


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## MarkBrown (Jan 10, 2011)

Another option is to temporarily nail or screw another board to the board you want to cut. The temporary board should hang over the width of your board and be attached at an angle to match the taper you want. Then you can run the board with the temporary board attached through your table saw with the edge of the temporary board riding along the fence. I believe you will end up with a smooth continuous taper.


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## riooso (Feb 26, 2011)

If you have a straight board one can clamp the straight board on top of the one you want to cut and either use a router flush bit or use the board as a guide using a beefy 1/2 router slotting bit. You did not give the thickness of the board you wish to cut but if it is 1" or less this will work very well.

Take Care,
Richard


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## BertFlores58 (May 26, 2010)

The problem I am thinking on this is the taper of .25 at 70 in …. Best way is..
1. mount a guide wood 70 inches or more, rigid and around 2×4.25 inches width (same width with wood to be cut) with a spacer of 1/4 inch on one end, 1/8 inch in the middle and none on the other end. 
2. glue the guide wood to the stock to be cut on different points specially the middle and both ends. Note: Sometimes, I do nail it to the guide but I use 1 inch nail. Or you can use a dowel and glue. The circular saw with carbide teeth can cut the nail but be careful. You will realize now that there is a gap of .25 on the other end. This will cater for the taper when you cut. By the way you can now use a Table Saw in this case.
3. Then mark your saw cut line depending on which side will be your guide edge for the circular saw. Double cut it if the cutting capacity of the circular saw is not enough.

I just read late that Mark Brown has the same idea as mine. Thanks Mark


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## BertFlores58 (May 26, 2010)

Planing is different method here…
Cut two pieces of the same taper wood and use a double tape to stick them together temporarily arranging opposite end sides. This way you get the exact thickness all through out. You can use now thicknesser or any planning method.

Hope you will be happy now. Do not waste the other piece because you may need it again as jig.


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## Domer (Mar 8, 2009)

If you have access to a track saw, it helps keep the cut straight.

Domer


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

Another vote for circular saw, edge guide, and quality blade. Doesn't have to be super high end, but a decent blade like a Freud Diablo D0724R (Home Depot, readily available and inexpensive…) would be fine. Be sure that you support the work piece with something you don't mind getting cut. Remember Concrete and Carbide are not friends…


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

After you cut it with the jigsaw, post a new article, "how do I joint a 70 inch board?" The first person that says jointer plane gets a beer on me


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## Viking (Aug 26, 2009)

Harold;

Agree with Mark Brown and Bert on doing this on table saw. Have done this several times with up to 96" boards with excellent results. Usually just join the guide board and the board to be tapered with 2 sided tape.

Good Luck!


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## canadianchips (Mar 12, 2010)

Use your jointer. Start with the thick end sitting on the back table and plane off the eremaining stock. You will make a taper doing this. Make several small passes,when you are close to the final pass cut, joint the entire board. It is only 70 inches. (Less than 5 feet)


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## Stonekettle (Jun 13, 2010)

In my shop, if I wanted it done fast and perfect, I'd use the FESTOOL TS75 plunge saw running on a long guide rail. If I was feeling motivated, I'd take Bertha up on her challenge and use the Bailey #7 jointer plane.

Some things to be aware of when making a rip cut this long with a circular saw:

1) you didn't say what type of stock you are cutting, plywood doesn't require any special prep, but if you're cutting stock lumber with the grain, especially with a circular saw, you need to watch out for twist and binding. The riving knife on the TS75 negates this problem (same with the splitter or riving knife on a Table Saw) but the circular saws you named don't have that feature. You may need to insert wedges at the starting edge, behind the saw, to prevent binding and kickout.

2) If using a circular saw, get a rip blade, or at a minimum a GP combo blade - *not* a crosscut blade. Make damned sure that the blade depth is set no deeper than necessary, about an 1/8" deeper than the board thickness, or you risk kickout on a rip cut.

3) 4 1/4" wide is pretty narrow. So you need to think about how you'll clamp the board down so that the saw runs freely the entire length without hitting your clamps and so that the blade doesn't strike anything you don't intend to cut. Also you need to worry about tipping the saw. Both of these are just more reasons I like the TS75 and the FESTOOL guide rail with underneath clamps.

If you don't have something like the FESTOOL or Dewalt guided plungesaw setup, I'd go with the suggestions above and use the tablesaw and a simple sled. It's a lot safer.

my 2 cents anyway.


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

Could use a router, a straight-edge (like another board) and flush-trim bit.

-Gerry


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## canadianchips (Mar 12, 2010)

Math error I guess.
So your telling me I am over 5 ft tall. Whoo Hoo.


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## D_Allen (Oct 11, 2010)

My vote is for using a router and a flush trim bit.
1 or 2 passes and it is done and finished.


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## 8iowa (Feb 7, 2008)

I do this type of cut fairly often, on rough cut boards with natural wavy edges, often with bark still on. I draw a straight line down the board, (I've done boards over 100 inches long) then with a wide resaw type blade in my bandsaw, I freehand cut down this line. Roller stands on both infeed and outfeed sides help to support long boards.

It's surprising how straight a line I can cut, so straight in fact, that with a few passes in the jointer the edge is perfect. I never use a taper jig anymore.


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## hjt (Oct 22, 2009)

Wow guys and gals… I just got a chance to log back in and see if any more LJ's replied. I'm floored at both the number of you that took your time to help me and to the numerous ideas passed along - plus the "new math" offered by canadianchips :~)

Da little women of the house has kept me busy today, so I've not had any time to get back to my project, but when I do I'll be posting photos. She says I should take some scrap wood and try the various methods offered, just for fun and practice.

Several folks have asked about the type of wood. I'm building a small shelving unit. The wood I'm using is pressure treated 1×6 pine.

Those of you that suggested using a router… I never thought about using that tool for this type of cut. I've got a very old one but have never used if (Most of my tools came fro my dad after he passed. If you care to review my workshop you can read the story and see photos of his two shops and mine.

And Stonekettle - a Festool???? Oh my, I remember reading about the TS75 in one of my wood mags last year. I jumped on their site and was in awe. When I came home that night I showed my wife what "real men and women can do with real tools."

Thanks again


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## GFYS (Nov 23, 2008)

I straighten the boards length with a router/flush tim bit then saw to width on the TS. I have a work table that is made with an 8 ft straight edge to use for this purpose.


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

Yep, I'd push it through the table saw piggybacked to another board. I do like the idea of the flush trim bit and router…that's almost too simple. I've done this plenty of times with a guided circ saw as well, with good results. Really, just pick your tool and go for it.


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## fussy (Jan 18, 2010)

Bertha,

A JOINTER PLANE!

Steve


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

I owe a beer. Make your pick & PM me your address. I probably should have limited it to a 12 oz. domestic beer


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## hjt (Oct 22, 2009)

Bertha - am I to understand I could have earned a beer had I typed jointer plane in my previous posting??? hmm, I'll have to watch your posting more closely.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Stonekettle appears to be the first! With a name like "stone kettle", I'm worried I owe some exotic Belgian lambic brewed in stone kettles I would probably up it to a six pack if anyone actually hand joints that board!


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## Stonekettle (Jun 13, 2010)

Well, I wouldn't turn down a Belgian beer, but I usually prefer something Irish


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## Moyer (Jul 25, 2010)

I would just ask home depot to try and rip it for you at exactly 4.25". From my experience they will give you the taper you are looking for simply through their incompetence.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

A cold Harp for Stonekettle!


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## hjt (Oct 22, 2009)

Thanks to everyone who contributed ideas to help me solve my problem. I used a simplified versions of Kindlingmakers (3rd posting) suggestion.










AND IT FIT!!!!










If you's like to see the finished products, [IMG


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## bubinga (Feb 5, 2011)

I Agree with Harold ,Mark Brown, and Bert
Attach a guide board at the right angle with double sided tape
And run it through ,table saw,nice smooth cut ,and your done
Woops to late 
my two cents


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## ferstler (Oct 5, 2008)

Glad you got the work done OK. In your position I would have first used a good portable circular saw (with a good carbide-tipped blade) and clamped-on fence to guide the cut. I would have cut carefully, but uniformly a tad overly wide from what wasi needed (say, 4.5 at one end, down to 4.25 at the other) along the full length of the board. Then, I would have planed the decently cut, full-length-cut edge with a jointer until the required width was reached down the length. Job done.

Howard Ferstler


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