# Ridgid BS14002 Bandsaw - Upgrading to Pass the "Nickel Test"



## GrizzlyBagWorks (Jan 16, 2014)

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*After w/ General Overview Video and Nickel Test:*





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Let me just start off by saying that after the issues I had with my Ridgid R4512 table saw I was basically finished with Ridgid stationary power tools. Then a project came up that required a band saw and I happened to stumble across one on Craigslist for what seemed like a reasonable price. I did a little research and wasn't all that surprised to read several scathing reviews with many coming to the conclusion that the Ridgid BS14002 was the "worst tool Ridgid has ever made". BUT there were a few that were able to address it's shortcomings and get it to function as it should have from the factory-so I took the plunge.

When I picked the saw up the cast iron surface was covered in rust, the blade was installed with the teeth facing up (and yes, they used it that way), and the thing shook like a paint shaker. I'm not kidding, was shaking like I never thought a tool could. I probably should have passed on it but I bought it anyway.

*BEFORE:*










*After w/ General Overview Video and Nickel Test:*





Cleaned up but Pre-Modifications: 









I made the following adjustments and "upgrades" to the machine:

*Adjustments: *
Balance Upper & Lower Wheels
Align Upper & Lower Wheels
Align Drive Pulleys

*Upgrades: *
- Urethane Tires
- Cool Blocks 
- Harbor Freight Link Belt
- 3/4" Plywood Base
- Harbor Freight Mobile Base
- Timberwolf 1/2" x 3tpi Blade
- New Ridgid Inserts (originals were basically destroyed)

In my case the biggest improvement came from replacing the rubber tires, which had a flat spot from years of compression by the blade, for urethane ones that I bought on Amazon. Unfortunately that was the last upgrade I made and I almost gave up on the machine before I finally caved and bought the tires. Next was probably balancing, followed by reinforcing the base with 3/4" plywood and finally changing the belt.

If I were to try and rehab one of these machines again I'd start with balancing the wheels (free) then 3/4" reinforcement of the base and removing the rubber grommets (>$10-if you have the wood). Then inspect the belt for obvious signs of memory, replace if necessary ($10-20). Then I'd go straight for the urethane tires for $35. I might even start with the tires if they were badly cracked.

I didn't think it was going to be possible but the machine now runs very smooth and passes the "nickel test" without issue, even with the lower wheel being out of true and the upper wheel being slightly out of round. Given how bad this thing shook when I first got it I didn't think it was going to be possible. I could probably improve things even further by "sanding the urethane tires" round but at this point I'm going to call it a job.

So, if you already have this saw, or are thinking about buying one used, know that there is hope!

Next "upgrade" will be a quick release tensioner and a table with fence for resawing.

Goodluck!


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

That before pic looks a lot like the one I rehabbed! Mine came with black electrical tape for tires! And was the older gray unit before they painted them orange. I did a blog on my fix and like yours it works nicely now. I think they got a bad rap but they do require a bit of tweaking.


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## toolie (Mar 16, 2011)

nice job. the ridgid forum is rife with horror vibration stories but there are also success stories like this one where the 1400 is concerned.

dump the t-wolf blade for a wood slicer or a lennox from iturra and watch that saw *really *sing.


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## GrizzlyBagWorks (Jan 16, 2014)

thanks guys!

@toolie, is the wood slicer really that much better than the T-wolf? I had the Woodslicer in my cart and was about to "submit" the order and had a change of heart last second. I wasn't 100% sure I was going to get the saw to work so I didn't want to spend $40 on the Woodslicer. Bought the T-wolf since it seemed to have pretty good reviews and was 25% less. I doubt I'll be resawing 6" hardwood very often, if at all, so the woodslicer seemed like it was beyond what I needed. If I end up putting a riser block on the saw maybe I'll try the woodslicer now that I know the saw runs well.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

The after pic looks very nice! Does this thing come with no fence at all? Can't do much resawing withoug a fence.

One of my fav things to do with my bandsaw is bookmatched panels. I never get tired of that. You need to be able to resaw very straight and clean because you don't want to have to plane and sand much on the matched faces or they won't match anymore.

-Ocelot


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## Gixxerjoe04 (Jan 31, 2014)

Took quite a transformation, couple of questions. Haven't watched your video yet but do you show how you balanced the wheels or know of any good videos for a how to? Also what did you use to clean the rust off? I bought the same saw a little while ago and have been slowly upgrading stuff. Got urathane bands and cool blocks, been wanting to buy the kreg fence for it so I can resaw on it since it's my only bandsaw. Mine doesn't shake much at all except when I turn it off.


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## GrizzlyBagWorks (Jan 16, 2014)

No fence unfortunately. I was thinking about the Kreg fence but don't want to put any more money into the thing so I'll be building "miter gauge fence" for it instead (http://lumberjocks.com/projects/86191).










I just statically balanced the wheels. Basically just let them spin, come to a rest and mark the bottom of the wheel. Do this many times and you'll see where you heavy spot is. I then taped various item to the opposite side to get an idea of how much weight to add. After a little trial and error I got it balanced and the wheel stopped rocking and stopped at a random point every time. Didn't include that in the video though.


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## jumbojack (Mar 20, 2011)

YES The Woodslicer is all that. I've tried most and for resawing the WS is THE champ!


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

I located the motor to a shelf below the saw in addition to what you did. The lower center of gravity helps dampen vibration and on mine, the original motor location kept me from opening the lower door completely.


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## Surfside (Jun 13, 2012)

Great modification on the bandsaw. How did you remove the rust ?


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## GrizzlyBagWorks (Jan 16, 2014)

MrRon - I found a pic of your saw while researching the BS14002. Very smart modfication! I almost did the same thing on mine, and probably will down the road. Seems like a much better placement for it. And ya, my motor blocks the lower door as well.

Surfside - I broke out the orbital sander with some 80 grit paper to knock most of the rust off. As soon as I started to see a little bit of steel I went to 120. Once the rust was just a fine layer over the steel I went to 220 wet/dry sandpaper on a block and sanded while spraying WD-40 occasionally. Then I went up in grit until like 1000 or so. After that I wiped everything down with denatured alcohol and then put a heavy coat of Paste Wax on it. I just was careful to go light on the power sander and be mindful of how close I was to actually removing steel.


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## GrizzlyBagWorks (Jan 16, 2014)

Finished the table and resaw fence. Works surprisingly well!

---- Video of the table & resawing 4" walnut---


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## toolie (Mar 16, 2011)

toolie, is the wood slicer really that much better than the T-wolf?

Yes, yes it is. There's a reason t-wolf runs a four for three sale and it's not because they are making superior band saw blades or that they really like woodworkers.


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## JollyGreen67 (Nov 1, 2010)

Great job ! My PC almost passes the nickel test - gonna try the balancing act on the wheels, see if that helps. One word of advice about the left side saw blade track guide, the one right next to the switch - cover it with duct tape ! While reaching for the switch one just might perhaps by chance stick their finger into the track while the saw is running - and - don't ask me how I know this. ;o)


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## hcstoops (Jan 29, 2014)

I went through the similar remorse after I bought a used Rigid band saw off craigs list and then read the reviews of how the upper shaft broke,terrible vibration , worst tool ever made. But since I had already bought it so thought I would try to get it running smooth. It is the same saw basically that the Harbor Freight, Grizzly and a couple of others sell and the parts are interchangeable. I know several woodworkers who have those saws and are happy with them.

I bought the saw from a steel fab shop,that made utility trailers and they cut steel with it. It had a finer toothed steel cutting balde on it. the cool blocks were gone as were all the knobs for the guide adjustments. The rubber tires were not there the blade rode against the metal wheels. I started it up before I bought it and it ran fairly smooth, not much vibration.

When I opened it up it was full of black gunk and metal filings. The first thing I did was take it all apart and clean all that up then I checked out the upper tilt/spindle assembly. it looked good,no cracks or wear and the bearings were free.

I ordered a new upper spindle as a spare plus all the thumb screws (metric) table alignment pin, cool blocks ,table inserts,vinyl tires, guide bearings,and a riser block kit. BTW I found out that the grizzly riser block kit is identical and costs half what I paid . I ordered 105"Kerfmaster blades, that I like better than wood slicer and they run $17.00 + shipping. (I order 6 at a time to save on shipping,if you order one the shipping is almost as much as the blade.

after it was reassembled ,it ran great vibration free. the new tires seemed to take out what vibration was there before. I did notice when I had it apart that there was some drilling going on on the upper wheel, maybe the previous owners had balanced the wheel.

I went on to put a Kreig fence and micro dial adjustment on it. Also filled in the table between the column and the table,extended the table out the back, enclosed the dust collector port, put a 1 hp. Harbor Freight motor on it.

it does what I want and I am happy with it.

Herb


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## not2shabby (Aug 3, 2016)

Can anybody give me the specs on the motor and drive pulleys? I think the specs say it's supposed to turn 2,700 fpm with no load. I'm guessing this was originally a 1725rpm motor?

I'm asking because I have a chance to buy a BS14002 body - very cheap - but no motor. Fortunately, I have an spare motor in the garage. The body is also missing the drive pulley, so I could use specs on both.

Thank you!


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## hcstoops (Jan 29, 2014)

Here is the Operators Manual pdf . It is a 1725 RPM motor. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/260994/Ridgid-Bs1400.html?page=6#manual
I have one and bought it from a guy who used it to cut angle iron for building trailers. I cleaned it up ,it was all greasey and put a riser block in it to resaw up to 11". The 3/4hp motor 110v was not powerful enough so replaced it with a 1hp HF 220v motor and it works very well. 
I put a Kreig fence on it and new tires along with a ceramic thrust guide, use 1/2" 3t carbide impregnated blades and good to go.
Herb


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## not2shabby (Aug 3, 2016)

Thanks! I found the manual, but what I really need is the pulley diameters. Can't seem to find those in the manual and Ridgid's parts list online is seemingly useless.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

The Delta (which that is a clone of) originally used an 8" wheel pulley and a 2.75" motor pulley. Later production machines switched to a 6" wheel pulley. Motor was 1725 (1800) rpm.

You can determine sfpm for various configurations here:
Band Saw Surface Feet per Minute

Cheers,
Brad


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## not2shabby (Aug 3, 2016)

Great info, Brad. Thank you!


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## hcstoops (Jan 29, 2014)

I found with mine that the slow speed on the pulley was not good for wood cutting. I moved it to the higher speed and it works fine..
On the blades, i have used the wood slicers and they are super sharp and fast cutting blades,but….don't llast long though. 
I did some research and tried the carbide impregnated blades from 
https://www.amazon.com/SuperCut-B89-5G12H3-Carbide-Impregnated-Bandsaw/dp/B002FYL5C6/ref=sr_1_15?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1483663114&sr=1-15&keywords=Super+cut+band+saw+blades

They have all sizes, and cut a little slower than Woodslicers but last longer by at least 2X. They are USA made and go to their web site and they have any size or type of blade plus custom lengths known to man.
Herb


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## Woodchuck2010 (Jan 19, 2016)

> thanks guys!
> 
> @toolie, is the wood slicer really that much better than the T-wolf? I had the Woodslicer in my cart and was about to "submit" the order and had a change of heart last second. I wasn t 100% sure I was going to get the saw to work so I didn t want to spend $40 on the Woodslicer. Bought the T-wolf since it seemed to have pretty good reviews and was 25% less. I doubt I ll be resawing 6" hardwood very often, if at all, so the woodslicer seemed like it was beyond what I needed. If I end up putting a riser block on the saw maybe I ll try the woodslicer now that I know the saw runs well.
> 
> - GrizzlyBagWorks


Highland Woodworking sells the wood slicer for $30.


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

I have never used Wood slicer or Timberwolf. I use blades made by Starrett and they are precision made. The weld is so smooth that you can't see where it was welded resulting in a smooth running blade; no clicking when the blade passes through the guides.


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## not2shabby (Aug 3, 2016)

MrRon, where do you get the Starrett blades? I'm having trouble finding them.


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## Benners (Jan 11, 2017)

Thank you for this post. I bought a discounted 14002 from HD several years back and have had trouble with vibration and blade drift for awhile. I put up with it because I only occasionally used the machine for smaller projects and I didn't have a good enough justification for upgrades. I have a couple of bigger projects now that will require a correctly-running machine. I considered ditching the Ridgid and buying a new Grizzly or Laguna. When I saw how much the new models were though I decided to go all in on fixing the one I have. This post and several YouTube videos were my inspiration. So, thank you for taking the time to help people like myself out. I have many of the parts (i.e. wheels, blades, link belt, cooling blocks, etc.) being shipped this week. I'm now motivated to get this band saw working great.

I love the idea of the tabletop and the fence as well. I did something similar with my drill press and it has worked great. Perhaps I need to do the same for the band saw. I do have one question though. Do you have to take the table top and fence off if you're going to replace the blade? It looks like the slot for your blade on the table top is on a different side than the slot in the cast iron. I was wondering why you wouldn't do the slot on the same side?

Also, what do you think about boring the same size hole in the center of the table top as is on the cast iron top and then relocating the metal insert that comes with the cast iron top to the table top? The plywood table top would have to be recessed of course to make the insert flush. I think these two things would make blade replacement easier and also allow for dust to fall in the hole and through the dust port below.


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## Naturalhoosier (Feb 14, 2018)

Hey fellas (and ladies). Long time lurker, first time poster.

I'm looking at one of these models on Facebook. The guy is asking $300. It's a clean model. Doesn't appear abused. From the pics I would say it's 'like new'. Does $300 seem appropriate all things considered? I will certainly do the 'nickel test'. I'm upgrading from a 9" Ryobi table top machine. Not ready to put down a ton of coin but I don't want to get hung out to dry either.

Any advice would be awesome!


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## DWC1 (Apr 18, 2018)

Certainly glad I found you guys. I've been looking hard for a band saw and came across this site when I was researching the Rigid BS14000. Like most of you found, the reviews were really mixed with many being negative. Even though a guy locally had one on CL for what I considered a good price, I was very hesitant about getting it. Until I came across this site. After reading all of the suggestions and advice, I was convinced that if the saw was in decent shape then I it could be worth purchasing. When I looked at it, it was sitting in the guys driveway and not on a completely level surface. I could also see the blade was not centered on the tires. But I started it and vibration was not bad. I figured for $140 it was worth it. I got it home and at least got the blade tracking properly. Now I am going to follow the advice given here with regards to some of the upgrades. I will report back with the results. But I do expect by following the advice what you have posted here I will have a great tool added to my workshop.


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## DWC1 (Apr 18, 2018)

So in my last post i told you I had bought a Rigid BS14000 for $140, and that I would get back to you with the results of following the advice found here. First thing was to give the saw a basic going over and make sure everything was set up the way it should be. I downloaded the manual off another site, cannot remember where but they are available, and followed the set up procedures. Definitely found a couple things out of alignment/tolerance that just need to be adjusted. Next step was to add a piece of 3/4 inch plywood, as recommended here, to the mounting surface between the saw and the base for vibration dampening, as well as to the bottom of the base so I could add 3 inch wheels for moving the saw around. I know most recommend using particle board, but I had the plywood available so used it. Just as a note here; as I performed each process I checked the vibration just to see what progression, or regression (in vibration) you might say, was achieved. Even after the initial adjustments the vibration was not all that bad. Most was on initial start up and then shut down.

So after I added the plywood to the mounting surface on the base, the plywood and wheels to the bottom and reassembled the saw to the base, the vibration had subsided immensely. Just for grins I put it to the "nickel test" . And yes, it passed. Keep in mind, I have not yet changed the new tires, the cool blocks, a new blade or link belt, or anything else someone might recommend.. I do have those, except for the belt, and am going to change them. But right now, just performing the basic adjustment and adding the wood to the base has the saw running smooth.

I have spent right at a $100 for tires, cool blocks, and a 3 pack of various size Timber Wolfe blades. When the time comes and the belt needs changing I will buy a link belt. But the current belt on the saw is like brand new. Anyway, I am all in at $240 right now on a 14 inch bandsaw that runs great. Will it do everything I need? More than likely, at least for now. Am I happy with it? Yes. I will report back with any future information.


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## MichaelTT (Mar 1, 2018)

I bought a used BS14002 via facebook marketplace for $175.. I had read up here on the forum, seen all the mixed reviews and fixes, especially about the possible earthshaking vibration, but at that price it was too good to pass up thought.
Once I had it, it was vibrating quite a bit, but replacing the v-belt with a linkbelt, mounting motor and saw on a piece of 3/4in plywood, and replacing the tires with urethane tires, made a whole lot better. It still has some vibration, might even pass the nickel test, but I just haven't gotten around to thorouhgly balancing the wheels.
Also wanted to replace the guide blocks with cool blocks, but it turned out that the block carrier was cracked (cheap cast metal part), and there are no parts available for this saw from Ridgid…
So I replaced the whole thing with a bandsaw guide upgrade kit from Carter, really nice piece of hardware.
Pretty happy with the saw , so far it has done everything I asked from it..
With the price for the saw, and all the stuff I bought for it, I'm up to approx $400, could have gotten a 
Harbour freight or Porter Cable 14in saw for that money, but would it have been better ? who knows..


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## MichaelTT (Mar 1, 2018)

> ....... I do have one question though. Do you have to take the table top and fence off if you re going to replace the blade? It looks like the slot for your blade on the table top is on a different side than the slot in the cast iron. I was wondering why you wouldn t do the slot on the same side?


No…
just replaced the blade on mine, without removing the table.


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## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

> - GrizzlyBagWorks


I like that style of fence for any BS. Ya get a zero clearance, a fence 90 to the table (or at least it should be) a top that when waxed is slick as snot for pushing wood through, even rough logs, and you can make another one in 15 minutes if you mess that one up.

If your BS is well adjusted, you can say, what drift? I see from the video, you are able to do that.

Only thing unsaid, but I've seen videos before where people have done this set up, and complained it didn't work. Very important to have the billet of wood 4 square before resaw. If your table has a fence 90 to it, and you are trying to make something not square run through the blade, it doesn't work so well.


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

On my Ridgid band saw, the motor interfered with opening the lower door. I relocated the motor to a shelf below the saw to solve the problem. It also lowers the center-of-gravity. I also modified the guides, replaced the wheel bands and balanced the wheels. It now runs like a band saw should. I originally paid less than $200 for it new. It also has a 6" riser.


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## hcstoops (Jan 29, 2014)

Changing tires on the wheels can be a PITA, I read somewhere an easy way to do it,so tried it and it was very easy. For those of you that have tried to change the vinyl/rubber tires and had problems,here is the way I read to do it.
take an old scrap of plywood larger than the wheel. Take the wheel off the bandsaw, lay it on the plywood and draw a circle around the wheel 1/4" larger than the wheel. Tack some finish brads every 1" apart around the larger circle. You may have to cut out a hole for the hub of the wheel to let the wheel lay flat against the plywood, then stretch the tire around the nails. Lay the wheel into the jig and pull the nails. The tire will seat on the wheel.
Herb


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## hcstoops (Jan 29, 2014)

While we are on the subject. the upper pivoting hub broke on mine, and I had an extra I had bought earlier when refurbing the saw. They are made out of pot metal with a steel shaft. the pot metal ears sheared off about a year ago,so I replaced the whole thing, I bought the parts from Ridgid.

Herb


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## tvrgeek (Nov 19, 2013)

I found when I tuned up my 10 inch Delta, I could get it smooth as can be, but the light weight aluminum wheels take just a spec of dust to get unbalanced and shake by inches. Aluminum table is even worse than yours.

An AX series belt will run smoother than the A series V belt. Won't take a set quite as bad. 
I added about 50 Lbs of mass to the base, helped a little. 
I found my expensive blue poly tires had a hump where they were welded together. A real pain to grind out.

End result is my decision to buy a 14 inch Rikon or Laguna. Big iron wheels. As I am staying home for a while I put off the purchase for a while. Re-wire first, moving my DC and re-ducting etc. A couple folks mentioned their 18 inch do "everything better" but won't say what. My 10 can do the cuts I need, but I want SMOOTH.


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## photofilet (Nov 23, 2021)

I recently purchased a used (yet rarely) RIDGID BS14001. I THEN found all of the bad press. Nonetheless, I am determined to improve this saw and make it just fine. I have a few questions: 1) What riser kit do you recommend? I have seen it stated where Grizzly makes a kit that fits this bandsaw. What is the kit number? I want to buy the correct one. 2) What Guide Set do you recommend? I have seen where Carter is highly recommended. Is that true? 3. What brand of Cool Blocks do y'all recommend? 4. It came with a 3/4HP motor. Would y'all recommend going with a 1HP or greater? Where do you purchase them? I will post pictures before I start doing anything major. Thank you in advance.


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