# Shopsmith Restoration



## PG_Zac (Feb 14, 2009)

*An offer I couldn't refuse*

So yesterday I was up in a tree I am felling for and with my step-dad (I keep the wood) when he asked if I had done any turning. I said no because I don't have a lathe, but that I would like one. He looked up at me and asked if I'd like one.

Well I know he has a workshop, but it is mostly for metal working and his lathe is a large metal lathe, so I thought he was kidding. Anyway, after we cleaned our mess up at the end of the work day, he took me to his open-sided store area under the garage and showed me what looked like a Shopsmith, but there was no name plate I could see. Further back in the store was a second one, but this one has the Shopsmith logo on the control dial. He thought at least one of them still had a working motor, so he plugged one in and switched it on. I was gobsmacked when the motor sprang to life. The motor sounded smooth - no scraping or rattling, no wheezing or staining - the bearings sound like new and the main spindle turns easily by hand as if it had been recently overhauled and lubricated.

He'd picked them both up for a song a few years ago with the idea of building one good machine out of two, but never got around to it. Since then the machines have been sitting in a fairly exposed area deteriorating further. He doesn't think he'll get to restoring and using them, so he reckons someone who will respect and use them well should have them for free.

I'll probably collect the machines some time this month and will blog the restoration process and the first project. I know there will be a ton of work to do as these machines look like they belong on a scrap heap, but I'm sure it will be an interesting and rewarding journey. Like my wife said, felling a tree is hard work but the pay is good.


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

PG_Zac said:


> *An offer I couldn't refuse*
> 
> So yesterday I was up in a tree I am felling for and with my step-dad (I keep the wood) when he asked if I had done any turning. I said no because I don't have a lathe, but that I would like one. He looked up at me and asked if I'd like one.
> 
> ...


great score…nice of him to do that for ya…hopefully it wont be to bad and you get one running good..then it will be time to turn your first project…it should be something made form some exotic …have fun..


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

PG_Zac said:


> *An offer I couldn't refuse*
> 
> So yesterday I was up in a tree I am felling for and with my step-dad (I keep the wood) when he asked if I had done any turning. I said no because I don't have a lathe, but that I would like one. He looked up at me and asked if I'd like one.
> 
> ...


That's what I think folks should do with things they don't use. Like routers LOL


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## PineInTheAsh (Jun 14, 2009)

PG_Zac said:


> *An offer I couldn't refuse*
> 
> So yesterday I was up in a tree I am felling for and with my step-dad (I keep the wood) when he asked if I had done any turning. I said no because I don't have a lathe, but that I would like one. He looked up at me and asked if I'd like one.
> 
> ...


PG Zac,

I can't remember the last time I was 'gobsmacked.'

Good luck with the Shopsmiths. They continue to enjoy a healthy following.

Best,
Peter


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## dataman (Sep 15, 2006)

PG_Zac said:


> *An offer I couldn't refuse*
> 
> So yesterday I was up in a tree I am felling for and with my step-dad (I keep the wood) when he asked if I had done any turning. I said no because I don't have a lathe, but that I would like one. He looked up at me and asked if I'd like one.
> 
> ...


I dod a freind a big favor and he gave me his Shopsmith but it was about 30 years old and really made a lot of noise. Since it dodn't cost me anything I was able to pack up the main unit and put it on a bus to Ohio and had it rebuilt and all the new stuff was installed on it for about $100 at that time. Still have it in my shop and use it for spcific things.


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## PaulMCohen (Jan 22, 2008)

PG_Zac said:


> *An offer I couldn't refuse*
> 
> So yesterday I was up in a tree I am felling for and with my step-dad (I keep the wood) when he asked if I had done any turning. I said no because I don't have a lathe, but that I would like one. He looked up at me and asked if I'd like one.
> 
> ...


There is a free video series by Nick Engler on the Shopsmith (forum) site where he takes a unit out of a scrap heap and makes it look new. Lots of tips and things that should make the process go faster.

Shopsmith will do it but it costs a lot more that $100 today.


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## HallTree (Feb 1, 2008)

PG_Zac said:


> *An offer I couldn't refuse*
> 
> So yesterday I was up in a tree I am felling for and with my step-dad (I keep the wood) when he asked if I had done any turning. I said no because I don't have a lathe, but that I would like one. He looked up at me and asked if I'd like one.
> 
> ...


Take some photo's and keep us up-to-date on your progress.


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## westside (Nov 14, 2009)

PG_Zac said:


> *An offer I couldn't refuse*
> 
> So yesterday I was up in a tree I am felling for and with my step-dad (I keep the wood) when he asked if I had done any turning. I said no because I don't have a lathe, but that I would like one. He looked up at me and asked if I'd like one.
> 
> ...


Great story, looking forward to the pics! Keep us updated.


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## richgreer (Dec 25, 2009)

PG_Zac said:


> *An offer I couldn't refuse*
> 
> So yesterday I was up in a tree I am felling for and with my step-dad (I keep the wood) when he asked if I had done any turning. I said no because I don't have a lathe, but that I would like one. He looked up at me and asked if I'd like one.
> 
> ...


Go to ShopSmith forums ( http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/index.htm ) to learn a lot about shopsmiths and how to restore them.

I started with ShopSmith many years ago and I still have that machine in my shop. I now have more space and I have acquired a pretty good collection of stand alone tools, but I still want to keep my shopsmith. I use it for a number of secondary functions (buffing, horizontal boring, belt sander attachment, and others). It's a reasonably good (but not great) lathe. If using it as a lathe is your primary objective, weight it down a lot and/or bolt it to the floor and get the heavy duty universal tool rest. I'm always impressed with the quality of the engineering in a shopsmith. It's a unique machine that can be adapted to perform a number of functions in a way that you cannot do with other machines.


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## hobie123 (Jan 28, 2010)

PG_Zac said:


> *An offer I couldn't refuse*
> 
> So yesterday I was up in a tree I am felling for and with my step-dad (I keep the wood) when he asked if I had done any turning. I said no because I don't have a lathe, but that I would like one. He looked up at me and asked if I'd like one.
> 
> ...


Thats great PG! Sounds like a pretty good reward for your efforts.
Great story, let us know how the rebuild goes.

Does anyone have a tree to cut down for say…. a shaper that needs buffing and paint? Worth a shot I guess

Hobie


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## 8iowa (Feb 7, 2008)

PG_Zac said:


> *An offer I couldn't refuse*
> 
> So yesterday I was up in a tree I am felling for and with my step-dad (I keep the wood) when he asked if I had done any turning. I said no because I don't have a lathe, but that I would like one. He looked up at me and asked if I'd like one.
> 
> ...


As Rich said, there's a lot of good information and advice about restoring old Shopsmiths on the shopsmith forum. Nick Engler's DVD's would be a real plus;
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/nevideo_index.htm


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## PG_Zac (Feb 14, 2009)

PG_Zac said:


> *An offer I couldn't refuse*
> 
> So yesterday I was up in a tree I am felling for and with my step-dad (I keep the wood) when he asked if I had done any turning. I said no because I don't have a lathe, but that I would like one. He looked up at me and asked if I'd like one.
> 
> ...


Thanks for all the pointers Guys.

I will definitely be blogging the restoration progress with lots of pictures.

Stay tuned to this space, but don't hold your breath for the first episode as I'll only start it in a couple of weeks, and it won't be on the top of my priority list.

Cheers


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## HoosierJoe (Oct 6, 2009)

PG_Zac said:


> *An offer I couldn't refuse*
> 
> So yesterday I was up in a tree I am felling for and with my step-dad (I keep the wood) when he asked if I had done any turning. I said no because I don't have a lathe, but that I would like one. He looked up at me and asked if I'd like one.
> 
> ...


You are gonna love it, Zac! I always wanted a 10ER and found one 3 years ago at a steam engine show flea market for $150. It's a 1953, and is my most treasured stationary tool. I bought it intending it as a dedicated lathe, but I use it for so much more the longer I have it. It was so well cared for I kinda got a bit aroused just looking at it…...The only thing I had to do was clean up the rust on the way tubes.
It's my grinder, boring tool, and lathe…..One of the things I absolutely love it for is cutting dados. It takes, literally 2 minutes to set up, and I don't have to putz with blade changing on my table saw.

I suggest you get a a ball bearing live center right off the bat. You're gonna be looking for a Morse taper (probably a #2MT).....I found a good one for about $30 at the Rockler store, but Highland has them starting around $16.

There's a guy in Texas named "Skip" who maintains a Yahoo Group called "Shopsmith 10ER Users Group". You might wanna check it out. He is , as far as I'm concerned, THE leading authority on the 10E & ER….and machines replacement parts, and speed changers.

Good luck and "Happy Shopsmithing"! ~ Joe


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## PG_Zac (Feb 14, 2009)

*The Treasure Trove*

As you may know, I have been gifted a Shopsmith but it needs restoration.

Well, This afternoon we loaded the Shopsmith and the second "spares" machine in our bakkie (pickup) and drove it 2.5 hours home. Most of the trip was in rain, with almost half of the drive time spent peering through a rain storm worse than I have seen in the last 5 years. At times the visibility was down to about 3 car lengths.

I'm not worried about any rust from the trip, because this is how my new toy has been stored for the last few years

*The Shopsmith*








.

*Its Legs*








.

*The Shopsmith Clone made in Taiwan*.
















.
Tomorrow I'll unload the machines and take better pictures for posting (if there is sun).


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## SST (Nov 30, 2006)

PG_Zac said:


> *The Treasure Trove*
> 
> As you may know, I have been gifted a Shopsmith but it needs restoration.
> 
> ...


What you have is NOT a shopsmith. It's an import copy that (I think) was sold through Menards in the 1980's as a "Woodmaster". As I remember, many parts are close enough copies as to be interchangeable. Good luck on the restoration. I've restored several Shopsmiths…some that were real basket cases, and it's very rewarding when you're done to use the machine. -SST


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## longgone (May 5, 2009)

PG_Zac said:


> *The Treasure Trove*
> 
> As you may know, I have been gifted a Shopsmith but it needs restoration.
> 
> ...


It looks as if you have your work cut out for you.This machine was obviously neglected for a long time.
I had a Shopsmith back in the 70's and it came in really handy since I would take it to the boathouse alot. The multifunction part was quite handy, even thought it was a hassle between setups. After many years of hard use it became primarily a horizontal drill and a lathe. I definitely got my moneys worth out of it. I remember paying around $800 for it.
good luck on your restoration..


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## 8iowa (Feb 7, 2008)

PG_Zac said:


> *The Treasure Trove*
> 
> As you may know, I have been gifted a Shopsmith but it needs restoration.
> 
> ...


I'm a little confused. Did you say that you have obtained two machines? The first picture does look like a Shopsmith. If so that is the machine you should concentrate your restoration on because the older model 500 is still supported by Shopsmith Inc. in Dayton Ohio.


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## PG_Zac (Feb 14, 2009)

PG_Zac said:


> *The Treasure Trove*
> 
> As you may know, I have been gifted a Shopsmith but it needs restoration.
> 
> ...


*ShopsmithTom* & *8iowa* - I have 2 machines.

One is a Shopsmith and the other is a Master Shop.

My next post shows the two machines and the sad condition they are in.


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## KMJohnsonow (Feb 16, 2010)

PG_Zac said:


> *The Treasure Trove*
> 
> As you may know, I have been gifted a Shopsmith but it needs restoration.
> 
> ...


Good luck.


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## 8iowa (Feb 7, 2008)

PG_Zac said:


> *The Treasure Trove*
> 
> As you may know, I have been gifted a Shopsmith but it needs restoration.
> 
> ...


PG:

There is a lot of restoration and "experts" on the Shopsmith forum;

http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/


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## PG_Zac (Feb 14, 2009)

*Unpacking - Terrible Condition*

This morning I unpacked my new toys and can confirm that I have one Shopsmith mk 5, and one Master Shop. They are both in very sad condition, and I will be concentrating my efforts on restoring the Shopsmith and relegating the Master Shop to being the "spares" supply wherever possible.
















.

The load waiting to be unpacked.








.

As you can see, there is rust everywhere








.
Even the Aluminium is seriously corroded








.
At least one of the main castings is broken









I can see that this is going to be a long and difficult restoration process, but I'm sure it will all be worth it in the end. I have been trying to manipulate my budget to buy a drill press followed by a table saw, with a lathe somewhere down near the bottom of the priority list - this way I get all 3.

Many of the accessories are missing, but at least I have the table saw and the lathe tail stock


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## KMJohnsonow (Feb 16, 2010)

PG_Zac said:


> *Unpacking - Terrible Condition*
> 
> This morning I unpacked my new toys and can confirm that I have one Shopsmith mk 5, and one Master Shop. They are both in very sad condition, and I will be concentrating my efforts on restoring the Shopsmith and relegating the Master Shop to being the "spares" supply wherever possible.
> 
> ...


Lotsa work.


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## UncleHank (Jan 13, 2010)

PG_Zac said:


> *Unpacking - Terrible Condition*
> 
> This morning I unpacked my new toys and can confirm that I have one Shopsmith mk 5, and one Master Shop. They are both in very sad condition, and I will be concentrating my efforts on restoring the Shopsmith and relegating the Master Shop to being the "spares" supply wherever possible.
> 
> ...


Wow! Was it kept outside? Best of luck in the restoration.


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## deeman (Dec 19, 2009)

PG_Zac said:


> *Unpacking - Terrible Condition*
> 
> This morning I unpacked my new toys and can confirm that I have one Shopsmith mk 5, and one Master Shop. They are both in very sad condition, and I will be concentrating my efforts on restoring the Shopsmith and relegating the Master Shop to being the "spares" supply wherever possible.
> 
> ...


I have bought parts on E-Bay for repairs on my MK V. They have worked out quite well. You just have to be patient and keep checking. The parts you need will eventually show up. I have two MK V One I bought new in 1986 and one I bought at a yard sale for $100. It was made in 1970. Both work very well. Good luck on your restoration.


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## PG_Zac (Feb 14, 2009)

PG_Zac said:


> *Unpacking - Terrible Condition*
> 
> This morning I unpacked my new toys and can confirm that I have one Shopsmith mk 5, and one Master Shop. They are both in very sad condition, and I will be concentrating my efforts on restoring the Shopsmith and relegating the Master Shop to being the "spares" supply wherever possible.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the good wishes guys.

John - They weren't outside, but almost as bad. They were in a "shed" with two open sides in a very humid city for at least two years.


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## SST (Nov 30, 2006)

PG_Zac said:


> *Unpacking - Terrible Condition*
> 
> This morning I unpacked my new toys and can confirm that I have one Shopsmith mk 5, and one Master Shop. They are both in very sad condition, and I will be concentrating my efforts on restoring the Shopsmith and relegating the Master Shop to being the "spares" supply wherever possible.
> 
> ...


I would suggest that you spend your time & money on the real Shopsmith & scrounge any compatible parts off the other but not bother to restore it, since there is no support for that tool. The "smith" you have is from the 1950's, but one of my Mark 5's is that vintage & I've restored several others like it. The result is a very serviceable tool that will give you years of reliable use. Feel free to PM me if you need any help when you get into the project. I might be able to save you some time & frustration. -SST


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## oldwoodman (Feb 4, 2009)

PG_Zac said:


> *Unpacking - Terrible Condition*
> 
> This morning I unpacked my new toys and can confirm that I have one Shopsmith mk 5, and one Master Shop. They are both in very sad condition, and I will be concentrating my efforts on restoring the Shopsmith and relegating the Master Shop to being the "spares" supply wherever possible.
> 
> ...


Would it be possible for some American/European Shopsmith owners with extra, unwanted parts to donate them to PG-Zac to facilitate his restoration project? I have a few duplicate parts that I would be willing to donate. I just do not know what the shipping costs would be, or even if it would be worth it.

Would the shipping costs be prohibitive for such a venture?

I think it would be cool to have an *international *ShopSmith restoration.


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## PG_Zac (Feb 14, 2009)

PG_Zac said:


> *Unpacking - Terrible Condition*
> 
> This morning I unpacked my new toys and can confirm that I have one Shopsmith mk 5, and one Master Shop. They are both in very sad condition, and I will be concentrating my efforts on restoring the Shopsmith and relegating the Master Shop to being the "spares" supply wherever possible.
> 
> ...


*SST* - Yeah I definitely won't be spending much time fixing the Taiwanese clone. At most, I'll just prevent further deterioration and keep it on hand for spares when needed. Thanks for your offer of help - I'm sure I'll need it somewhere along the line.

You say this is a 50's machine - How do you tell for sure? I want to buy an owner's manual, but I believe there are several models with different manuals.

*oldwoodman* - That's a very generous offer, thanks. Any missing parts that I need to buy would have to be shipped whether I buy parts from the manufacturer or eBay, so the shipping cost is a fact of my life and won't prevent a purchase, although it may delay it a while. I intend to replace only missing parts or parts that are beyond repair rather than parts that are difficult to repair.

All assistance is greatly appreciated


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## SST (Nov 30, 2006)

PG_Zac said:


> *Unpacking - Terrible Condition*
> 
> This morning I unpacked my new toys and can confirm that I have one Shopsmith mk 5, and one Master Shop. They are both in very sad condition, and I will be concentrating my efforts on restoring the Shopsmith and relegating the Master Shop to being the "spares" supply wherever possible.
> 
> ...


Regarding the age of the machine, go to the Shopsmith.com site & click on Mark 5 and then on serial #'s. If I could ever figure how to do a link, I would. I think there's also a place there where you can download a manual at that site. if not, go to www.ssug.org it's a good resource.


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## SCOTSMAN (Aug 1, 2008)

PG_Zac said:


> *Unpacking - Terrible Condition*
> 
> This morning I unpacked my new toys and can confirm that I have one Shopsmith mk 5, and one Master Shop. They are both in very sad condition, and I will be concentrating my efforts on restoring the Shopsmith and relegating the Master Shop to being the "spares" supply wherever possible.
> 
> ...


I can never understand the fascination TODAY with this old fashioned technology.We live in a world (mainly thanks to the Chinese) where setting up a shop is relatively within the budget of most people who have a home.Now obviously we can go to the stars when it comes to spending if we so wish.But this kind of tool is OK I suppose if you are pushed for space where everything fits in one machine and is very versatile and I could see a real use for it in abygone age say just after the war for example.Today I see very little scope for this, and even if this one of yours were in reasonable condition (which it's clearly not) I would still seriously question a need for this type of machine .I wish you good luck but if you intend using this watch your health is more important than saving a few bucks this is dangerously in need of second thoughts, if and when when, it comes to using it sorry I am just trying to be honest.Alistair


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PG_Zac said:


> *Unpacking - Terrible Condition*
> 
> This morning I unpacked my new toys and can confirm that I have one Shopsmith mk 5, and one Master Shop. They are both in very sad condition, and I will be concentrating my efforts on restoring the Shopsmith and relegating the Master Shop to being the "spares" supply wherever possible.
> 
> ...


lots of potential. it'll take some work,but I think it's worth it!

looking forward to seeing the progress


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## SST (Nov 30, 2006)

PG_Zac said:


> *Unpacking - Terrible Condition*
> 
> This morning I unpacked my new toys and can confirm that I have one Shopsmith mk 5, and one Master Shop. They are both in very sad condition, and I will be concentrating my efforts on restoring the Shopsmith and relegating the Master Shop to being the "spares" supply wherever possible.
> 
> ...


I'm a little puzzled by Scotsman's "old fashioned technology" comment. Now, mind you, I'm not faulting anyone for their opinion, because the Shopsmith idea has always been subject to spirited discussion, but I'm wondering how a variable speed drill press, lathe, horizontal borer, and movable disk sander can be considered old fashioned technology. (I'll leave out the table saw not because I don't use it, but because it probably is a weak point to some with the tilt table design) 
The only thing that's old fashioned, I suppose, is that these tools (with reasonable care)routinely last 50 years or more. I don't think many tools today will do that.
I've restored many old Shopsmiths, and other than rust cleanup on machines stored in crappy areas, about all the mechanicals needed was cleaning, lube and an occasional set of bearings. 
As to safety issues, Blade guards are available if they've been lost, and if a safety on/off switch is desired, it's easily & cheaply added. 
These are not "throwaway" machines. Maybe that's why I'm always supportive of restorations (yes even on separate old machines), but especially on Shopsmiths…because I'm an admitted "smith" junkie.

By the way, I do know some paint codes if you plan to go with an original look.


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## bunkie (Oct 13, 2009)

PG_Zac said:


> *Unpacking - Terrible Condition*
> 
> This morning I unpacked my new toys and can confirm that I have one Shopsmith mk 5, and one Master Shop. They are both in very sad condition, and I will be concentrating my efforts on restoring the Shopsmith and relegating the Master Shop to being the "spares" supply wherever possible.
> 
> ...


SCOTSMAN-

I could certainly go back to all the typical pro-ShopSmith arguments. But I won't. You questioned the *need*. I think that misses an important point which is that *want* has a lot to do with it. The Mark V has a really lovable quality. I don't know how else to explain it. Why restore a Mark V? Why not? It's more useful than, say, a vintage car. It's an example from another age when things were made to be maintained and repaired. I certainly think that merits the love and attention of those who appreciate its clever design and solid execution.

Back when I was a younger man, I worked in a TV repair shop. There was a particular brand of TV that was a joy to repair. It was well-made, designed to be easily serviced and had great support (service manuals and parts). They weren't cheap, but they represented something important, a commitment to a long service life. Of all the consumer products available today, the Mark V stands out as a survivor of that time. To some of us that's a very powerful attraction.


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## PG_Zac (Feb 14, 2009)

PG_Zac said:


> *Unpacking - Terrible Condition*
> 
> This morning I unpacked my new toys and can confirm that I have one Shopsmith mk 5, and one Master Shop. They are both in very sad condition, and I will be concentrating my efforts on restoring the Shopsmith and relegating the Master Shop to being the "spares" supply wherever possible.
> 
> ...


I have read that Shopsmiths have an avid following, and that opinions of these machines can be widely divided. In a way I am pleased to see it firsthand as it gives me a more personal insight into the pros and cons of the effort I am embarking on. I value *all* comments on and responses to my posts (like I think most active members do) because this helps me improve my skills and widen my idea base.

*Alistair* - Thanks for your comments. I'm usually very tuned-in to safety risks of using any machine, and I'll take your gentle warning seriously. Don't apologise for being honest, it's good to see that there are still people around who are both honest and who can disagree without offending.

*SST* - I haven't yet decided on staying with the original colour scheme, but I'll keep it mind for when I make that decision, Thanks.


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## PG_Zac (Feb 14, 2009)

*We have identified the machine*

At least I believe we have identified it.

Shopsmiths have a very active user group forum, and the members there have helped me identify which model I have.

It seems that my SS is a "Goldie" MK 5 (not MK V) model 500, manufactured somewhere from 1960 to 1963 by Magna Corporation before they went out of business in 1964. Shopsmith Inc. (founded in 1972) still supports the Magna machines.

It seems that the clincher in identifying it was this warning label riveted onto the headstock casting - apparently all of the other models have stick-on labels.








.
The machine has obviously undergone some not too clever repair and maintenance in it's long career, evidenced by this make-shift power switch.








.
This machine seems to be almost as old as me, and older than many LJ's. I just wish I could renovate myself with some electrolysis, sand paper, paint and wax.

The reference to electrolysis is a method employed by several SS refurbishers to remove rust. I know many LJ's refurbish old tools and machines, but I haven't seen mention of electrolysis as a rust remover. I'll post that process and the results when I do it - hopefully it will help someone restore a plane or two.


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## whitedog (Dec 7, 2008)

PG_Zac said:


> *We have identified the machine*
> 
> At least I believe we have identified it.
> 
> ...


that power switch isn't stock ? I'm surprised.


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## davidmicraig (Nov 21, 2009)

PG_Zac said:


> *We have identified the machine*
> 
> At least I believe we have identified it.
> 
> ...


Looking forward to seeing the progress. Be careful when using the switch, it might activate your neighbor's garage door opener…

David


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## ajb (Jan 7, 2010)

PG_Zac said:


> *We have identified the machine*
> 
> At least I believe we have identified it.
> 
> ...


good luck on this one I am in the middle of a refurb job myself on a radial arm saw about halfway through I had wished i had just left it alone but now that it is almost done, I* have realized how much i have probably learned about the machinei wouldn't have know about before. Hope you have a lot of fun with this.


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## OutPutter (Jun 23, 2007)

PG_Zac said:


> *We have identified the machine*
> 
> At least I believe we have identified it.
> 
> ...


You might try looking through the posts about plane restoration for some electrolysis examples. I'm sure I saw one just recently.


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## jstegall (Oct 9, 2008)

PG_Zac said:


> *We have identified the machine*
> 
> At least I believe we have identified it.
> 
> ...


I am mainly posting so that I can keep up with this restoration. I owned a Mark V from about 1980 until 1994 when I sold it to make a cross-country move. I used it mainly as a lathe and horizontal boring machine (not for cutting mortises).


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## PG_Zac (Feb 14, 2009)

*Started the Strip-Down*

I started stripping my Goldie today, so I knocked this cradle together to support it while working.








.
I rough cut the base and overlong uprights. I then clamped the uprights together and used a large Forstner to drill the support cut-outs and cut off the tops off the uprights to give me half-round cradles for the way tubes. A few angle brackets later all glued and screwed, and I have a good work stand.








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I can even turn the unit on its side to access the underside.








.

I then started stripping down the headstock to find out what internals I have. To get the belt cover off, I had to take the end casting off the way tubes. Not very cooperative due to rust.








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Not commonly used restoration tools








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Speed pulleys seem to be in decent condition








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The motor appears to be original








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It seems to be able to handle both 110V and 230V without mods








.
Wiring is all shot








.
Good news though - The quill rack & pinion seem to be in very good condition, just greasy & dirty








.
That's it for today.


----------



## Hacksaw007 (Sep 1, 2009)

PG_Zac said:


> *Started the Strip-Down*
> 
> I started stripping my Goldie today, so I knocked this cradle together to support it while working.
> 
> ...


Wow, this one is a bit on the rough side. I await with excitment to see how it goes on this great machine! This isn't your first one I am guessing?


----------



## woodworm (Jul 27, 2008)

PG_Zac said:


> *Started the Strip-Down*
> 
> I started stripping my Goldie today, so I knocked this cradle together to support it while working.
> 
> ...


Now I'm scared….and very anxious to see the result.


----------



## jstegall (Oct 9, 2008)

PG_Zac said:


> *Started the Strip-Down*
> 
> I started stripping my Goldie today, so I knocked this cradle together to support it while working.
> 
> ...


Wow.


----------



## SST (Nov 30, 2006)

PG_Zac said:


> *Started the Strip-Down*
> 
> I started stripping my Goldie today, so I knocked this cradle together to support it while working.
> 
> ...


You definitely have a challenging one there. I recommend replacing the bearings in the motor as long as it's out. It's not uncommon that, even though they feel good now, if it's been sitting for many years, that you'll get it back together & run it a few times & then the dried and/or congealed grease will cause bearing failure & you'll have to take it apart again.

If the bearings in the upper & idler shaft or quill feel "lumpy" or tight, you can sometimes save them by warming them (not too hot) with a hand held propane torch & then putting a couple of drops of oil (I use Marvel Mystery Oil…don't really know why, I just always have) into the bearing & spinning until it smooths out. The quick way to do this is to hold the shaft with the bearing lightly up against a buffing wheel or soft wire wheel & turn on the buffer/grinder machine. If the bearing is off the shaft, slip it over a dowel or rod. Let the wheel spin the bearing for a few minutes.
I wouldn't do that with the motor bearings, only the headstock ones. Also be aware that some motors have a different size bearing at each end of the motor shaft. (but not all motors) The difference is slight, so measure carefully.

Oh, and have fun. -SST


----------



## PG_Zac (Feb 14, 2009)

PG_Zac said:


> *Started the Strip-Down*
> 
> I started stripping my Goldie today, so I knocked this cradle together to support it while working.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the pointers SSTom.

Hacksaw - You are wrong, this *is* my first one, and it is a *lot* on the rough side


----------



## DerekL (Aug 18, 2008)

PG_Zac said:


> *Started the Strip-Down*
> 
> I started stripping my Goldie today, so I knocked this cradle together to support it while working.
> 
> ...


I hope the motor is still functional under all that… I'd figure a way to mount and run it outside of the machinery and give it some thorough testing before committing to it.


----------



## dusty2 (Jan 4, 2009)

PG_Zac said:


> *Started the Strip-Down*
> 
> I started stripping my Goldie today, so I knocked this cradle together to support it while working.
> 
> ...


According to the label, the motor is switchable 115/220vac. Wish they had left them that way.


----------



## EEngineer (Jul 4, 2008)

PG_Zac said:


> *Started the Strip-Down*
> 
> I started stripping my Goldie today, so I knocked this cradle together to support it while working.
> 
> ...


Sorry about the end casting. Is that a piece you can easily get a replacement for?

I love seeing old arn restored but this one does look like a rough one!


----------



## PG_Zac (Feb 14, 2009)

PG_Zac said:


> *Started the Strip-Down*
> 
> I started stripping my Goldie today, so I knocked this cradle together to support it while working.
> 
> ...


*EEngineer *- The casting is very easy to replace. ShopSmith still sells new parts for machines dating back to the early '50's, and if you don't like their prices, there is a ton of used stuff on eBay in decent condition.

I don't have to replace this part, as the Taiwanese clone I have has one in good condition.


----------



## jman95 (Mar 22, 2016)

PG_Zac said:


> *Started the Strip-Down*
> 
> I started stripping my Goldie today, so I knocked this cradle together to support it while working.
> 
> ...


Dont know where you are on this but on .Ebay you can pic up the tie bar for 15 bucks. wrap the tubes up in news paper and soke with lemon juice and leave on it a day or twoo and the rust will come right off. The motor has been replaced at some point because they did not put 1 1/8th motors in until 1980 prior was a 3/4hp. I re bult won about a year ago not as rough but still rough and I own 3 I you ever have questions I would be happy to help. anyway this is how mine came out. http://lumberjocks.com/topics/154418 If yous is done or close I would love to see a update. I just love these old machines.


----------



## PG_Zac (Feb 14, 2009)

*Stripping and Cleaning*

I have spent the last several days down with a nasty bug as did most in our house, so the work slacked off a lot. Anyway - so on to more stripping and starting the cleaning.

Here is the inside of the headstock with a bucket of bits.








.
I have found that the speed control sheave assembly needs to be replaced - the wire loop is supposed to be fixed in the end of the shaft with a bearing. Bearing is gone and the wire is near worn through.








.
Headstock completely dismantled and brushed off - original colour still shows in some areas.








.
I pressed out the nameplate rivets from behind, and can reuse them.








.
I had to use a lot of penetrating oil to remove stuck items and there were some areas of old gummy grease, so I needed to degrease all the parts for a decent clean up (except the bearings)
Check out the oils on this casting








.
and the grease in the quill gears in the previous post.

How to degrease?

Find some plastic baskets and place small parts in them. Then place basket and larger parts in bucket and smother with degreaser








.

*Before*









.
Brush them and rinse thoroughly. The baskets help them dry out.
.
*After*








.

I am using a new (to me) paint stripper that is much gentler to the skin that those I have used before, and it has no unpleasant vapours.
Just paint it on and leave it for a few hours. The scrape and hose off.
















.

*Here is the first part painted*








.
Note the red patch on the thumb knuckle? Skin does NOT beat wire wheel in drill !!
There are lots more pictures, but that's enough for now.


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

PG_Zac said:


> *Stripping and Cleaning*
> 
> I have spent the last several days down with a nasty bug as did most in our house, so the work slacked off a lot. Anyway - so on to more stripping and starting the cleaning.
> 
> ...


Pretty cool. As I remember, this Shopsmith was really a bucket of bolts. It is going to be fun to see what you can do with it. The bigger the challenge, the better the chance for unusual success. Will keep watching.


----------



## 8iowa (Feb 7, 2008)

PG_Zac said:


> *Stripping and Cleaning*
> 
> I have spent the last several days down with a nasty bug as did most in our house, so the work slacked off a lot. Anyway - so on to more stripping and starting the cleaning.
> 
> ...


Truly amazing Zak! Keep up the good work.

Have the guys over at the Shopsmith forum been able to help you?


----------



## SST (Nov 30, 2006)

PG_Zac said:


> *Stripping and Cleaning*
> 
> I have spent the last several days down with a nasty bug as did most in our house, so the work slacked off a lot. Anyway - so on to more stripping and starting the cleaning.
> 
> ...


Hang in there. From the pics, this may be the biggest mess I've ever seen in a shopsmith. The good news is that any really worn parts are pretty reasonable on ebay or from a couple of "shopsmith guys" out in the world. The rest is just elbow grease, and the end result will be a really nice machine. -SST


----------



## dlmckirdy (Oct 27, 2009)

PG_Zac said:


> *Stripping and Cleaning*
> 
> I have spent the last several days down with a nasty bug as did most in our house, so the work slacked off a lot. Anyway - so on to more stripping and starting the cleaning.
> 
> ...


SST, My son-in-law was gifted a 2000 Shopsmith Mk V. It has the lathe, table saw, drill press. sander, and bandsaw. However, he has no instruction manual/s for it. It came set up as a lathe, with all the other parts in boxes. Do you, or anybody else, know where we could get the manuals, either electronically (.PDF, etc.) or hard-copy? I am visiting them in Hermiston, Oregon from Bakerswfield, CA this week, and am trying to get it up and running.

PG-Zac, I am watching this one closely! Hope I don't have to go this far on ours. Keep up the good work.


----------



## PG_Zac (Feb 14, 2009)

PG_Zac said:


> *Stripping and Cleaning*
> 
> I have spent the last several days down with a nasty bug as did most in our house, so the work slacked off a lot. Anyway - so on to more stripping and starting the cleaning.
> 
> ...


*8iowa *- The SS forum has been a great help. I've found the the members of that forum to be as helpful and knowledgable as the LJ forum members, just with a different focus.

*SSTom *- I have already bought several items from eBay, and from ShopSmith Inc. As I get further down the line I am finding more items that need replacing.


----------



## pommy (Apr 17, 2008)

PG_Zac said:


> *Stripping and Cleaning*
> 
> I have spent the last several days down with a nasty bug as did most in our house, so the work slacked off a lot. Anyway - so on to more stripping and starting the cleaning.
> 
> ...


mate she's going to be a beauty when you have finished ….


----------



## PG_Zac (Feb 14, 2009)

*Cleaning Tubes*

I have been doing some tests of technique for cleaning the various tubes on my Goldie. I will be posting some pics of methods & results as I go along.

Here is a drill holder I got years ago when I bought a cutting disk for my drill. I haven't used this rig for years, but it is now earning its place in my "Good-to-Have" tool collection. It is adjustable in all directions except length.









This first "Tubes" post deals with the extension table legs. These legs are from my clone machine and were chromed but a lot of the chrome had been rusted out. This evening I used a sanding drum to hold the tube in my drill and used a cable tie to set & hold the drill trigger.









I used sandpaper grits 80 - 100 - 120 - 180 - 280 - 360 - 600 (wet). Followed by paste wax applied to the spinning tube with fine steelwool and buffed off with a polishing cloth.

Here is the result showing before & after.


----------



## pommy (Apr 17, 2008)

PG_Zac said:


> *Cleaning Tubes*
> 
> I have been doing some tests of technique for cleaning the various tubes on my Goldie. I will be posting some pics of methods & results as I go along.
> 
> ...


nice work there mate she is coming along very well


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

PG_Zac said:


> *Cleaning Tubes*
> 
> I have been doing some tests of technique for cleaning the various tubes on my Goldie. I will be posting some pics of methods & results as I go along.
> 
> ...


what a difference !
something new ,
under the African sun ?


----------



## PG_Zac (Feb 14, 2009)

PG_Zac said:


> *Cleaning Tubes*
> 
> I have been doing some tests of technique for cleaning the various tubes on my Goldie. I will be posting some pics of methods & results as I go along.
> 
> ...


There are very few ShopSmiths under African skys. I'm still trying to find if there are any other SS's in South Africa.


----------



## bigike (May 25, 2009)

PG_Zac said:


> *Cleaning Tubes*
> 
> I have been doing some tests of technique for cleaning the various tubes on my Goldie. I will be posting some pics of methods & results as I go along.
> 
> ...


wow! it's amazing what a little hard work will do?


----------



## Docmartin (Apr 1, 2016)

PG_Zac said:


> *Cleaning Tubes*
> 
> I have been doing some tests of technique for cleaning the various tubes on my Goldie. I will be posting some pics of methods & results as I go along.
> 
> ...


I have had an SS since about 1974. Inherited it.
It was imported in 1954.


----------



## PG_Zac (Feb 14, 2009)

*Quill Dismantling*

A few days ago I tried to dismantle my Goldie's quill assembly with zero success. I seriously wanted to dismantle this to clean it up properly - I'm sure a bath in degreaser would not be good for the bearing.

First I removed the whole quill from the headstock.
Next I removed the set screw from the spindle knob, but I couldn't take the knob off the spindle. I managed to turn the knob on the spindle with tools, but it was very tight, and wouldn't pull off.

So I asked the ShopSmith Forum members for some pointers. Which I got.

Here are a couple of pictures.
On this one you can see the score marks on the shaft that (I think) were the main reason the knob would not come off.









Check the crud inside the housing









In this pic you can see the corrosion I will need to remove, as well as the wonky clip on the housing.









I supported the housing with the spindle facing up and the spline facing down unsupported, and whacked the daylights out of the shaft sending it down out of the housing and bearing at the same time, but I had to ensure that I don't damage the end of the shaft.

That's why I have "soft" mallets in my arsenal. For this job I used an aluminium mallet. The mallet gets all dinged before it harms steel.

In terms of "whacking tools", here are my favourites shown from left to right in order of force required.
Short handled claw hammer, Rubber mallet, Nylon faced mallet, Aluminium mallet, 4 pound hammer.








.
.
.
Today I removed the bearing from the housing and degreased and cleaned the parts (excluding the bearing).

The bearing feels very good with no apparent slop or play, and smooth rotation without grating or excessive free running.

As you can see, my cleaning brush will soon have to be retired.


----------



## pommy (Apr 17, 2008)

PG_Zac said:


> *Quill Dismantling*
> 
> A few days ago I tried to dismantle my Goldie's quill assembly with zero success. I seriously wanted to dismantle this to clean it up properly - I'm sure a bath in degreaser would not be good for the bearing.
> 
> ...


i hope you know how to put this all back together again mate


----------



## olddutchman (Aug 17, 2007)

PG_Zac said:


> *Quill Dismantling*
> 
> A few days ago I tried to dismantle my Goldie's quill assembly with zero success. I seriously wanted to dismantle this to clean it up properly - I'm sure a bath in degreaser would not be good for the bearing.
> 
> ...


That's in need of a good going over! Is the first time that You tried to tahe it apart? Glad that You had some help from the forum . It's a great time to replace any damaged parts, and seals and the like Do You have a good parts store that can match up bearings" I always fear that it i don't get it together soon after dismantle, that I would not be good at rebuilding. Good Luck


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

PG_Zac said:


> *Quill Dismantling*
> 
> A few days ago I tried to dismantle my Goldie's quill assembly with zero success. I seriously wanted to dismantle this to clean it up properly - I'm sure a bath in degreaser would not be good for the bearing.
> 
> ...


this will keep you busy ,

but well worth it ,

i'm sure .

looking good !


----------



## 8iowa (Feb 7, 2008)

PG_Zac said:


> *Quill Dismantling*
> 
> A few days ago I tried to dismantle my Goldie's quill assembly with zero success. I seriously wanted to dismantle this to clean it up properly - I'm sure a bath in degreaser would not be good for the bearing.
> 
> ...


You're going to have that old "greenie" gleaming and humming in due time. Keep up the good work.

Are you planning to cut an access hole on the back side of the headstock housing? This will make periodic maintenance much easier. The older sand cast housings did not have this access.


----------



## PG_Zac (Feb 14, 2009)

PG_Zac said:


> *Quill Dismantling*
> 
> A few days ago I tried to dismantle my Goldie's quill assembly with zero success. I seriously wanted to dismantle this to clean it up properly - I'm sure a bath in degreaser would not be good for the bearing.
> 
> ...


*Andrew *- So do I * *

*OldDutchman *- I was gifted this machine and a clone a month or so ago. It was in such bad shape I have to rebuild it before even thinking of using it. Unfortunately, finding a good parts store out in the country is not possible.

*David *- It had better be worth it. In fact I think it already is - I love mechanical tinkering, and it's going to give me some awesome wood machines that I've been coveting.

*8iowa *- This is actually a 62 or 63 Goldie so the access is already there. In fact, I even have an extra access hole in the belt cover between the way tubes.


----------



## SST (Nov 30, 2006)

PG_Zac said:


> *Quill Dismantling*
> 
> A few days ago I tried to dismantle my Goldie's quill assembly with zero success. I seriously wanted to dismantle this to clean it up properly - I'm sure a bath in degreaser would not be good for the bearing.
> 
> ...


It's fun watching someone going through the same things I've been through, although your machine appears in worse shape than any I've redone. I gotta give you credit…I think I'd have just kept this one as a parts machine. But, the worse they look at the start, the sweeter the feeling when you finish. Keep us posted. -SST


----------



## PG_Zac (Feb 14, 2009)

PG_Zac said:


> *Quill Dismantling*
> 
> A few days ago I tried to dismantle my Goldie's quill assembly with zero success. I seriously wanted to dismantle this to clean it up properly - I'm sure a bath in degreaser would not be good for the bearing.
> 
> ...


SSTom - My parts machine is a clone, and is in equally bad shape. Apart from anything else, SS's are extremely rare in S.A. and shipping one from the US would melt my credit card.

.* *


----------



## Eagle1 (Jan 4, 2010)

PG_Zac said:


> *Quill Dismantling*
> 
> A few days ago I tried to dismantle my Goldie's quill assembly with zero success. I seriously wanted to dismantle this to clean it up properly - I'm sure a bath in degreaser would not be good for the bearing.
> 
> ...


Good luck restoring it..


----------



## pommy (Apr 17, 2008)

PG_Zac said:


> *Quill Dismantling*
> 
> A few days ago I tried to dismantle my Goldie's quill assembly with zero success. I seriously wanted to dismantle this to clean it up properly - I'm sure a bath in degreaser would not be good for the bearing.
> 
> ...


how is the SS Restoration going mate


----------



## PG_Zac (Feb 14, 2009)

PG_Zac said:


> *Quill Dismantling*
> 
> A few days ago I tried to dismantle my Goldie's quill assembly with zero success. I seriously wanted to dismantle this to clean it up properly - I'm sure a bath in degreaser would not be good for the bearing.
> 
> ...


Andrew - I still work on it most days, but nothing spectacular is happening. It's mostly cleaning and filing small mechanical parts, and *WAITING* desperately for the ordered spares to arrive. My motor is blown, and it is out for a repair quote at the moment. When that is cleared up, I'll post progress again.


----------



## PG_Zac (Feb 14, 2009)

*Electrolysis for Rust Removal*

This series has been quiet for a while, as I've been buying replacement parts off eBay and dealing with several small(ish) technical issues. The members of the ShopSmith owners' forum have been extremely helpful. My thanks to the LJ members who pointed me to that forum.

Here is my experience with removing rust by Electrolysis and I'm sure that many LJ's can benefit using this technique for tool restoration. If you have any questions, just ask and I'll do my best to help. I'm sure that this isn't the first LJ posting about this technique, but it is the most recent, and new members could find this helpful.

Basic setup:-

I took 2 scrap pieces of painted angle iron from old shelving.








.
Cleaned the inner faces and attached cables.








.
I took my quill housing and wedged a cable inside.








.
Then placed them in a bucket and electrolyte like this.








.
Next I connected the battery charger Black to quill & Red to angle irons









'
I applied power, and nothing happened. At least nothing happened in the bucket. The charger hummed, and that was all. I moved the quill closer to the scrap - nothing. I moved the quill to touching the scrap - nothing. I switched the charger from 3A to 15A - nothing.

So I dismantled the setup and pondered overnight. 
Was it the Electrolyte solution? Maybe the issue was the 1 tablespoon per gallon I've seen on some instructions.
Was it the charger? It is a bit old, and has been incorrectly connected a few times.

A few possible answers surfaced in my brain over the next few hours, until I had a route mapped forward.

Step 1: Test the charger on a battery I know will need boosting - CHECK
Step 2: Enrich the electrolyte to 1/2 cup per gallon as seen on other instructions - CHECK

I made these adjustments and connected the system again.
I applied power and (drumroll please) ... ... ... NOTHING.

Then a small little background idea pushed forward in my head - This charger has an automatic cut-off when the battery is full. Maybe it also has a protection circuit of sorts that only allows it to work if there is a battery connected.

The next step was to use a battery instead of a charger on the cleaning circuit to see if the charger was the problem.

I connected the battery to the circuit and … ... Hey presto - *BUBBLES*









.
I then connected the charger to the battery to keep it charged it while the battery was working on my quill. The battery and the work are connected in parallel.









.
Six minutes after starting, this is the surface of the electrolyte









.
This is the charger - As you can see here, the system is drawing between 9A and 12A









.
Goop Soup anyone?









.
The temperature of the liquid went up from the ambient 25 deg C to 42 deg C









.
Before









.
After Electrolysis

















.
After 15 minutes with sandpaper and steel wool.








.

This process has reduced my work time down to half or less. What used to take over 4 hours, now takes less than 2 hours including electrolysis.
.


----------



## bigike (May 25, 2009)

PG_Zac said:


> *Electrolysis for Rust Removal*
> 
> This series has been quiet for a while, as I've been buying replacement parts off eBay and dealing with several small(ish) technical issues. The members of the ShopSmith owners' forum have been extremely helpful. My thanks to the LJ members who pointed me to that forum.
> 
> ...


wow great job!


----------



## PG_Zac (Feb 14, 2009)

PG_Zac said:


> *Electrolysis for Rust Removal*
> 
> This series has been quiet for a while, as I've been buying replacement parts off eBay and dealing with several small(ish) technical issues. The members of the ShopSmith owners' forum have been extremely helpful. My thanks to the LJ members who pointed me to that forum.
> 
> ...


Mario,

I've read that any Sodium product will be a good electrolyte for this process. Sodium Bicarbonate (baking soda), Sodium Chloride (table salt) etc. but I read that Sodium Carbonate (washing soda) is apparently the best. I found some washing soda amongst the laundry detergents at Checkers and used it for this test.

Yes, the angle irons are connected *together *to the charger's *RED* cable and the battery's *positive* (*+*).
.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PG_Zac said:


> *Electrolysis for Rust Removal*
> 
> This series has been quiet for a while, as I've been buying replacement parts off eBay and dealing with several small(ish) technical issues. The members of the ShopSmith owners' forum have been extremely helpful. My thanks to the LJ members who pointed me to that forum.
> 
> ...


looks like great progress


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

PG_Zac said:


> *Electrolysis for Rust Removal*
> 
> This series has been quiet for a while, as I've been buying replacement parts off eBay and dealing with several small(ish) technical issues. The members of the ShopSmith owners' forum have been extremely helpful. My thanks to the LJ members who pointed me to that forum.
> 
> ...


Great blog Zac. I wonder if it will eliminate wrinkles too?


----------



## N6DSW (May 25, 2009)

PG_Zac said:


> *Electrolysis for Rust Removal*
> 
> This series has been quiet for a while, as I've been buying replacement parts off eBay and dealing with several small(ish) technical issues. The members of the ShopSmith owners' forum have been extremely helpful. My thanks to the LJ members who pointed me to that forum.
> 
> ...


Thinking out loud for a second. I wonder if some sort of better quality sacrificial metal such as a small chunk of stainless steel plate from the scrap yard instead of something soft like angle iron from the borg would have a better/longer lasting result?


----------



## SST (Nov 30, 2006)

PG_Zac said:


> *Electrolysis for Rust Removal*
> 
> This series has been quiet for a while, as I've been buying replacement parts off eBay and dealing with several small(ish) technical issues. The members of the ShopSmith owners' forum have been extremely helpful. My thanks to the LJ members who pointed me to that forum.
> 
> ...


Great write up & pix. I've used this process on old planes with great success. I use washing soda. I've thought of making some wood troughs so I can do Shopsmith way tubes, but I'm out of unrestored Shopsmiths right now. I figure that if I get a pretty tight fit on the wood & let it soak up water & swell I could make it work. I guess lining it with plastic from a cut open garbage bag would also work. Good luck with the rest of the project & post more pics. -SST


----------



## eccentrictinkerer (Feb 9, 2010)

PG_Zac said:


> *Electrolysis for Rust Removal*
> 
> This series has been quiet for a while, as I've been buying replacement parts off eBay and dealing with several small(ish) technical issues. The members of the ShopSmith owners' forum have been extremely helpful. My thanks to the LJ members who pointed me to that forum.
> 
> ...


There are postings on some sites that warn against using stainless steel because of the potential for heavy metals being leached out of the SS. These metals could be dangerous to our water supply.

I haven't investigated the claims, but thought someone (chemist?) might have an idea if this true.


----------



## PG_Zac (Feb 14, 2009)

PG_Zac said:


> *Electrolysis for Rust Removal*
> 
> This series has been quiet for a while, as I've been buying replacement parts off eBay and dealing with several small(ish) technical issues. The members of the ShopSmith owners' forum have been extremely helpful. My thanks to the LJ members who pointed me to that forum.
> 
> ...


*SSTom* - hopefully I'll get a chance to try this out on a was tube soon. I've already sanded and painted the bench tubes, and I almost finished sanding a way tube before I managed to get the electrolysis right.

*Eccentric* - I have also read that stainless is a bad idea due to hexavalent chrome being released, so I won't even take that chance as our only water supply here at home is from our own borehole.


----------



## JJohnston (May 22, 2009)

PG_Zac said:


> *Electrolysis for Rust Removal*
> 
> This series has been quiet for a while, as I've been buying replacement parts off eBay and dealing with several small(ish) technical issues. The members of the ShopSmith owners' forum have been extremely helpful. My thanks to the LJ members who pointed me to that forum.
> 
> ...


Here's a tank I put together for cleaning rifle actions & barrels, but it would work equally well for anything long and thin, like the way tubes. It's a piece of scrounged 5" PVC pipe with (bought) caps. Other diameters from 3 to 6" would work also. It's about 3.5 feet long.

Glue on the caps, then cut out a rectangular opening of width about 1/4 of the circumference, from cap to cap. If it's thin-wall, split the cutout down the middle and glue it along each edge of the opening to stiffen it. You can make a V-block for each end, or just dig a shallow trench to keep it from rolling. I don't know why the white caps look purple, except that the sun is reflecting directly off them.










Drill a drain hole in one end near the top. No plug is necessary; the contents will stay in place until you tilt the other end up. Without the drain hole, you'd never get the contents out completely.










Make an optional parts rack by cutting another rectangle of pipe about the same length as the hole in the tank and drilling holes in it; make the feet by cutting some of the pipe into small rectangles and gluing them into a stack, and glue it onto the bottom. These feet are 6 layers thick; use whatever you like.










Here's a shot with the flash on that shows the parts rack in the tank. There are 4 feet on the parts rack; the interior ones are where the holes have the bigger space between them.


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## PG_Zac (Feb 14, 2009)

PG_Zac said:


> *Electrolysis for Rust Removal*
> 
> This series has been quiet for a while, as I've been buying replacement parts off eBay and dealing with several small(ish) technical issues. The members of the ShopSmith owners' forum have been extremely helpful. My thanks to the LJ members who pointed me to that forum.
> 
> ...


Thanks JJ.

I was thinking of a 5" pipe for my way tubes, and this gives me a great insight on what features to include when I make mine. One question though - how do you keep the electrode from touching the workpiece?


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## JJohnston (May 22, 2009)

PG_Zac said:


> *Electrolysis for Rust Removal*
> 
> This series has been quiet for a while, as I've been buying replacement parts off eBay and dealing with several small(ish) technical issues. The members of the ShopSmith owners' forum have been extremely helpful. My thanks to the LJ members who pointed me to that forum.
> 
> ...


You mean because the bottom of the tank isn't flat? I hadn't thought of that. I've never used my tank for electrolysis, only for "soak and scrub". I suppose a flat insert, instead of one made from pipe. Or, you could bridge across the opening and suspend the electrode in the solution. Or, size your feet so the electrode fits under the parts rack (would that work? Do the parts have to have "line of sight" to each other for the ions to flow?)


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## PG_Zac (Feb 14, 2009)

PG_Zac said:


> *Electrolysis for Rust Removal*
> 
> This series has been quiet for a while, as I've been buying replacement parts off eBay and dealing with several small(ish) technical issues. The members of the ShopSmith owners' forum have been extremely helpful. My thanks to the LJ members who pointed me to that forum.
> 
> ...


I believe the parts do have to be "line of sight", but I haven't tested that yet. From the parts I've done so far, I suspect that there is a small amount of "around the corner" activity happening, but not much and certainly not far around the corner.


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## Jayp413 (Feb 27, 2010)

PG_Zac said:


> *Electrolysis for Rust Removal*
> 
> This series has been quiet for a while, as I've been buying replacement parts off eBay and dealing with several small(ish) technical issues. The members of the ShopSmith owners' forum have been extremely helpful. My thanks to the LJ members who pointed me to that forum.
> 
> ...


Great series! Anymore progress and pictures??? Would love to see where your at!


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## FeralVermonter (Jan 1, 2013)

PG_Zac said:


> *Electrolysis for Rust Removal*
> 
> This series has been quiet for a while, as I've been buying replacement parts off eBay and dealing with several small(ish) technical issues. The members of the ShopSmith owners' forum have been extremely helpful. My thanks to the LJ members who pointed me to that forum.
> 
> ...


I've been looking at electrolysis for a while, just haven't gotten started because I don't yet have a solid idea of what's going on in the tank, and I don't usually start a project until I have a solid conceptual floor to work off of… but also because something in my gut has been telling me that there's more to it… more to it, as in danger.

First off, from what I've read, using stainless steel is VERY toxic, and that furthermore dumping of the post-electrolysis fluid is illegal. Couldn't tell you why, exactly, but it's something mentioned on nearly every resource I've found so far. Why risk it?

But mainly I'm writing to re-share a post from another LJ electrolysis discussion which discusses what sorts of chemicals are found in the post-electroylsis fluid (post #27 on this thread http://lumberjocks.com/dustbunny/blog/28994)

Electrolysis may be "easy," but there's really a lot that a responsible person should know, before getting started.

(Thanks to chrisstef and Sodabowski):

Well, basically, all the crap you put in there in the first place will always be there in the end.

Just a bit WORSE.

The acidity of the bath can raise as gasses start to bubble and dissolve in there (hydrogen WILL be produced and WILL dissolve), and you add to it all kinds of metal oxydes from whatever crap is on the metal part firsthand. Also, the paint used for metal can contain boatloads of very dangerous stuff, like LEAD, which is an absolute poison for… whatever.

I still have some copper oxides from a small electrolysis experiment I did waaaay long ago when a teen (12 or so) in a test tube. These oxides can be very stable if you know what's inside, but with iron and generally speaking industry-made tools, moreover vintage stuff, you never really know what's inside. The cast iron could be of the unpurified sorts and contain all sorts of poisonous metals, and you don't want them back in the biosphere, or in your garden (try growing anything edible afterwards… I WOULDN'T).

Best thing to do with such baths is to leave them to evaporate, scratch the dry residue and keep it in a glass container until you have enough accumulated (say a full jar) to bring it to a safe disposal facility. At least that's what I would do if doing big time electrolysis with tools, and that's about what they do at the university's chem labs, when they aren't sure what's inside and they can't neutralize it themselves.

All depends on whatever parts you put in there, and what you add to your bath for it to conduce electric current. I would use caustic soda for it's easy to neutralize afterwards using hydrochloric acide (which would end up being salter water once you've neutralized the solution). You have a little math to do to ensure the proper quantities to end up with a neutral solution, but it's by far the best eco-friendly solution (using table salt from the beginning is OK but it's loaded with other minerals and as such it produces gunk on its own and can leave chloride inside the metal parts, which would cause them to oxidize after the fact if you don't rinse them properly immediately after the electrolysis).


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