# sanding edges and end grains



## dakremer (Dec 8, 2009)

I was curious as to how you guys sand your end-grains and edges on your projects. I recently made a couple of prayer kneelers as gifts, and I rounded over all the edges with my router - i had trouble sanding them down with out deforming the perfectly round edges. Any tricks you guys use? Also wondering what your techniques/steps are for getting the end-grains sanded enough to where they'll take stain without looking blotchy and *DARK*.

Thanks guys. You are the best. I really hope someday I can learn enough to where I can give some advice!!  someday….someday….


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

No matter how much you sand, end grain will always be different. I've heard of a couple of methods to keep the stain from looking much darker on end grain:

1. Use a lighter color stain on the end grain
2. Apply a sealer to the end grain before staining, so it doesn't absorb the stain as readily.

Personally, I never worry about this. To my eye, end grain is just supposed to look darker.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

quote: end grain is just supposed to look darker.

after all, if you want the entire piece to look evenly colored - not sure Wood is the best material.

I wouldn't worry about it - we always have a too complicated outlook on our projects, nit picking all the things that we shouldn't be.


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## KentS (May 27, 2009)

I typically just hand sand the profiled edges and end grain. The coarser the paper, the more likely you are to mess up the profile.

I'm with Charlie and PurpLev on the darker end grain. I never worry about it. To me, that's part of the appeal of stained pieces. If I wanted it that consistent, I would paint it. If it's blotchy, it could be inconsistent sanding-
Or it could just be the nature of the wood you are using. In the case, a sealer might help. You'll have to experiment with that on some scraps.


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## richgreer (Dec 25, 2009)

I own 8 different types of power sanders. Still, some things have to be sanded by hand. Rounded edges is one of those situations that require careful hand sanding.


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## Viktor (Jan 15, 2009)

Take a block of wood, rough cut (rout, saw, chisel) a rounded grove in it to match your rounded edge. Wrap sandpaper around the edge of your workpiece (abrasive outside). Rub your sanding block with grove in it against your workpiece. This will shape the sanding block to match your rounded edge exactly. Wrap (or glue) sandpaper around your groved sanding block. Sand away!


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## Dez (Mar 28, 2007)

I generally hand sand to at least one grit finer sometimes two grits on end grain depending on the type of wood.

I will sometimes use an orbital on bigger jobs, always working across the edge not along (parallel) it. Especially in the cabinet shop where time is money.


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## luckydawg (Mar 17, 2010)

Laminate!!!! hahahahaha!
you can spend more time working on the ends than on the whole project
I've used lighter stains and sealer etc…. now I don't fret over it so much any more!
ends are ends sand the best you can and move to the next project!


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## pvwoodcrafts (Aug 31, 2007)

I have a small bosch belt sander that I use on the endgrain and occasionally edges. I always sand before I use the router on them then hand sand the routed profile , usually a roundover .I use foam blocks made out of 2 in thick bluefoam insulation. It will take the roundover profile very quickly. If you burnish the endgrain with fine sandpaper, 400 grit , it helps a lot.


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## NateX (Mar 13, 2010)

I like to use a rubber sanding block with high grit on end grain. The wood whisperer had a good tip for end grain: He said to keep sanding until the dull dusty look goes away. I made some end grain cutting boards and hand sanded them with high grit and a sanding block, they looked very even and matched the sides of the board when all was said and done.


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## Dano46 (Sep 21, 2009)

I have always used a 280 grit on all end grains. It matches a lot better. It takes a little time, but you don't have that dark end


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## hasbeen99 (Sep 16, 2008)

I just stained a cherry jewelry box for my wife, and I'm happy to say I got some good advice about avoiding blotchy end grain. I only did 2 things:

1) Sanded the end grain with 1 to 2 grades higher sandpaper. In this case, I used 220 on the long grain, and 320 on the end grain.

2) Seal it with Bullseye shellac, thinned 50% with denatured alcohol. Sand again (lightly) with 320 when cured.

The Wood Whisperer also recommends using gel stain instead of regular oil stain on blotchy woods. The gel doesn't penetrate as deep, resulting in a more even finish.

Good luck!


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