# Building a changing table to be painted. Poplar or is pine ok?



## Zahnarzt (Dec 13, 2011)

We are expecting our first baby this fall and I am planning on building a changing table with open shelves and one long drawer. Basically a modified dry sink. At the wife's request all the furniture will be "espresso" so I plan to paint. I was planning on using poplar but could I save some money just using premium pine from the big box stores instead? What are the advantages of using poplar vs pine if we won't really see it? Thanks in advance for all the help.


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## bent (May 9, 2008)

first off, congratulations.

if you're painting it, i don't think poplar vs. pine is a big issue. either wood will be strong enough. just be sure you put a back on it, so that it doesn't rack. as a far as differences, the pine will dent easier, but will smell better when you're cutting it. also, i don't think premium pine from a big box store will be any cheaper than poplar. from what i've seen, they tend to charge about 2-3x the normal rate for lumber.


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## Zahnarzt (Dec 13, 2011)

Thanks, bent. I appreciate the input and the good tidings I was planning on using 1/4" ply for the back in addition to 3 rails on the front and back to connect the side frames. I'm not much of an engineer but do you think this will be enough to prevent the racking?


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## Knothead62 (Apr 17, 2010)

We had an unfinished pine dresser that we used for a changing table. We used a *waterprooof *polyurethane for it. Never know when babies are going to surprise you!


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## bent (May 9, 2008)

yeah, 1/4" ply will be plenty strong. the purpose of the back is to stiffen the piece, and not really to provide structural strength.


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## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

Congrats on the new baby.

Personaly, I like to use poplar instead of pine. The reason is the pine is more likely to get dented, and also, knots and sap is far more likely to interfere with the finish.

Lee


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## Zahnarzt (Dec 13, 2011)

It is a baby girl so hopefully long distance watering won't be an issue but waterproof sounds like just what the doctor ordered in terms of finish. This table will hopefully last for one more baby and 2-3 house moves so it sounds like poplar might be a better choice to prevent denting. I'll get pics up ASAP as I plan to start cutting this weekend.


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## mjfnh (May 8, 2012)

I second what Lee said about knots and sap. I like working with pine, but I never paint over it…that sap just bleeds right through no matter what I've used as a primer.I even sanded down a big sappy knot, coated it with Kilz, re-primed it, painted it again and it still bled up through the latex paint. Soft maple isn't too much more expensive than pine around my area, more dent resistant than pine without the bleed through issues. With that said, I bought an unfinished pine dresser for my son, gave it a light stain and a few coats of poly and it still looks great. Does it have to be painted? Congrats on your future daughter…you're in for the best time of your life!


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## MonteCristo (May 29, 2012)

Shellac is supposed to be the thing to use to seal knots so that you can paint over them. GOOGLE "seal knots with shellac" and you'll get some hits . . .


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## Dark_Lightning (Nov 20, 2009)

First of all, congratulations! Use poplar, it is WAY easier to get smooth and paint than pine. If you are painting, I'd recommend a product like Zinnser's sealers. They will even seal the knots on pine boards…though I like the look of knotty pine and use nitrocellulose lacquer on them, myself. Plus, it yellows nicely over the years.


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## BentheViking (May 19, 2011)

skip the big box store and go to a lumber yard or mill or even craigslist…get something better for less usually


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## lumberjoe (Mar 30, 2012)

I made some radiator covers. 2 from pine, 2 from poplar. Both primed with Zinnsers (Bulls eye) 123 and then painted some silly named color my wife picked out to match the trim - to me it's "off white". After about a year, the pine looks like crap. A lot of the knots are visible - not so much the color, but the outline. The poplar looks great still. Also poplar was so much easier to work with.


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

I'd go through the #2 pine and find the cleanest stuff you can. You can cut knots out depending on your cutlist (there will be stuff on the shelves and a cushion and blankets on the top, so you may never even see any knots). Take the money you save on lumber and buy diapers or put it in a college fund. If money is no object and you want an heirloom piece, then go poplar. You could substitute MDF for the shelf panels if you want to even out the cost.


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## ChuckC (May 13, 2010)

Definitely poplar. I stay away from pine almost always but when I use it I only use a clear finish.

I'm also not sure how much you will save if you get premium pine compared to the cost of Poplar? No 2 pine is VERY cheap but it would be a nightmare to get a decent paint finish.

Changing tables are usually considered disposable so maybe go with MDF and use poplar for face frames to hide the edges?

Oh yea, congratulations!


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## Bluepine38 (Dec 14, 2009)

Plywood with an edge facing is another easy way to go. My 3rd giggling daughter surprised me with a minor
deluge that went through the cloth diaper and required a mop. Boys may spray farther, but with babies, the
unexpected always seems to happen. Congratulations on your upcoming addition, and may you have many
happy years.


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

That's why I would only suggest MDF for the lower shelves. Even painted, if it gets wet it'll swell up like a balloon.


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## Puzzleman (May 4, 2010)

I would suggest sheet goods as a way to go. Lot easier to work with as well as pints well. My suggestion is to use a 3/4 maple or birch. The maple will give a smoother finish. Trim the front of either with a short piece of maple.

I think will be a quicker and easier way to do it. I make products for babies and children and use all sheet goods. Have never had a problem with splintering or anything else.


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## Zahnarzt (Dec 13, 2011)

My design is coming together and I'm thinking poplar frames and plywood shelves. I am a Zinsser disciple and use it on almost every project for one purpose or another, but after hearing about all these pee issues I might cover this whole thing with bar-top epoxy!!
I've only painted one pine project so far and it was just 2 months ago with (fingers crossed) no problems so far. I wonder if a stiffer gloss contains the sap better…


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## jumbojack (Mar 20, 2011)

Most of the time poplar is going to be cheaper than 'premium' pine. It all the time machines better than pine. It takes paint better than pine. Most poplar is knot free, straight grained and does not blow out like pine can. I like Zinsser 123 as a base coat, a light sand, although Zinsser says it does not need it, it does. Then what ever color your wife picks out. If you can spray your paint do so…..wait…...find a way to spray it, you won't be sorry.


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## Zahnarzt (Dec 13, 2011)

My last pre-baby gift to myself will be a compressor and basic HVLP sprayer. After trying to hand paint a few adirondack chairs post assembly, with their endless nooks and crannies, I am very motivated to start spraying.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Congratulations. Poplar is a little easier to work with, southern yellow pine is actually harder than poplar, both are about 2x harder than white pine. Longleaf pine is the hardest, harder than mahogany.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Congrats on you baby girl. Nothing can be more gratifying than making things for the people you love especially your first child. I agree that poplar is a much superior wood verses pine I also agree the sheet goods are a viable option.


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## renners (Apr 9, 2010)

I'd go with poplar over pine any day of the week. For the amount that's in it, the difference in cost shouldn't be too great. Poplar works really well, especially if you're routing edge mouldings, and takes paint really well.


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## Zahnarzt (Dec 13, 2011)

Finally finished! Thanks everybody for your advice and opinions. I am psyched with how it turned out!

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/72051


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