# help me finish my coffee table - walnut



## ichbinpete (Jan 12, 2011)

So I'm near finished with the coffee table I am doing for our living room. It is made out of walnut I brought down to TX from Ohio. It is going to have custom glass pieces on the top and I may do a chamfer on the underside or roundover/ogee on the top (open to suggestions here as well)

my big question is how I should apply finish and what I should apply. I would put the process as:

1. Easiest (noob friendly)
2. Best
3. Fastest

I do own the HVLP sprayer from Rockler, but weather seems like it may be an issue and I dont want to spray inside. That said, if this is suggested I think there are a few days over the next two weeks where it might be warm enough/calm enough to do this outside. I really want to show off/enhance the grain patterns while keeping it semi dark still. I have sanded it from 80-120-150-220-360 and have everything pretty smooth, understanding the walnut is very porous.

As always thanks for your help!


----------



## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

My suggestion: Wipe on a coat of Boiled Linseed Oil as per label directions. This is fast and easy, and will really highlight the grain.

After the BLO has cured for about 48 hours, wipe on about three coats of wipe-on oil-based satin polyurethane. Again, this is a fast and easy process. Allow to dry to the touch between coats.

If the finish feels "nibby" at all when you are done, wipe everything down lightly with #0000 steel wool.


----------



## ichbinpete (Jan 12, 2011)

sounds like a plan. Are there any thoughts on the BLO for home depot (Klean strip?) or Lowes (Crowne?)

Also, whats the best way to clean the wood after sanding? Mineral Spirits I think i read somewhere? I did "raise" the grain with water prior to sanding….


----------



## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

Charlie has it.
WaterLox Original can be used as a brushing or wiping finish.
Do you want to stain? I don't have a prob with the grain showing 'cause I feel that it reflects the nature of the wood.
Just don't hurry the finish whatever ya use. BLO takes a while to fully cure between coats. The Waterlox is that type of finish. Look it up.
Bill


----------



## GaryC (Dec 31, 2008)

If you've got a compressor, you can blow the sawdust away. You could wipe if after that if you want.


----------



## horky (May 18, 2010)

I like using natural Danish Oil. Wipe on, wipe on again, wipe dry … just like the directions say. You can do several times to build the finish. Then finish with poly as stated above. I just did the first coat on this aquarium stand .. walnut with curly maple ..


----------



## Earlextech (Jan 13, 2011)

Spray stain and shellac top coat with HVLP. Two coats of stain, wipe the excess with a clean rag. Three coats of dewaxed shellac cut 1:1 with denatured alcohol. Rub out with scotchbrite pad to sheen wanted then wax, using some elbow grease. Beautiful, easy to do and easy to repair in the future.


----------



## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

I like Earl's answer too. Shellac is one of my favs. One of the oldest finishes out there. Imagine that. Bug stuff makes a great finish. Kinda makes ya wonder who figured this out.
Bill


----------



## ichbinpete (Jan 12, 2011)

what kind of shellac do you suggest if I go that route? Is Zinseer any good? I dont have a hobby store/Rockler/Woodcraft too close so if I can use a big box store item it's easiest….

also, a couple people have mentioned staining. I would like to keep it more of a brown & tan(sap wood) color and avoid it looking reddish. suggestions or just stay with the natural color?


----------



## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

I've used that brand of BLO… no problem at all. Horky's suggestion of Danish oil is good too. I find BLO cures a little faster, but either product will give you good results.


----------



## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

I like Charlie's suggestion for ease of application and simplicity. I have found that Spar/MS wiped on pops the grain like BLO and eliminates one extra step. Does anyone else use this?


----------

