# can you put a finish on masonite?



## TheSerpenteer (Sep 21, 2008)

Seems like an odd question. but I built what turned out to be a very nice train table for my son. I made the surface a 1/2" sheet of MDF covered with 1/8" masonite. I was going to paint the masonite, but it actually goes very well with the Honey stained oak. BUT, it takes almost nothing to get water stains and such on masonite and that ruins it. So, before I try anything, can you wipe on a coat of poly or some other varnish to waterproof the masonite. I know it would darken it, but it would be much easier than paint, and would actually look pretty darn good. Any input?
Thanks, Brian


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## ajosephg (Aug 25, 2008)

Poly would be the most waterproof and durable finish. I'd go with a brush on versus wipe on to get more build up - i.e. more thickness, more durability.


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

i wouldn't go with poly. poly will want to soak in and will most likely not get good adhesion to the the masonite. if you really want to finish it i would recommend scuff sanding it with 400 grit and then either spraying a few coats of a precat (not nitrocellulose) lacquer to get up a good protecting finish. either that or you would use a thin coat of the pour on epoxy. those would work really well but i would think that if you use poly it would flake or chip.


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## blackcherry (Dec 7, 2007)

My favorite for years two coats sand & sealer and when cure paste wax…the old times called it the 100 year finish…also try it on any wooden glides you make on your draws , its amazing… smooth running.


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## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

I'm with Blackcherry. All my benches are masonite, brush on poly and lots of J&J paste wax. Any spills I've had just wipe off. Glue, latex paint, enamal paint, coffee, lots of coffee spills. It just beads up and you wipe off. I usally wax once a week because I like the shine and it makes the shop smell nice too.


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## Ger21 (Oct 29, 2009)

Any finish that soaks into the workpiece will have excellent adhesion. Polyurethane needs to be sanded between coats if fully cured for the new coats to adhere to the old. Any flaking of the finish would be due to poor preparation. If it penetrates really well, it actually can make the surface harder. You might want to thin the first coat a little with mineral spirits so it really soaks in good, then add an unthinned coat as soon as the first gets tacky. Let cure, sand and recoat and your good to go. For a really nice finish, another coat or two and wet sand using mineral spirits up to 400 or 600 grit and finish with 0000 steel wool.


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