# What receptacles are you using to power your shop?



## CTWith3 (Nov 9, 2015)

What receptacles are you using in your shop?

I am looking at Leviton's commercial grade 20 A duplex outlets in gray because I plan n painting my garage grey and white.

I have 4 single gang boxes for my single duplex receptacles and 1 GFCI receptacle, and have 2 two gang boxes with 2 duplex receptacles at my bench, and am looking into one of hose hand dandy receptacles with USB receptacles to charge my cell phone or iPad or i whatever.

I also have two 220V receptacles so I can work with my table saw in different areas of my garage/shop.

As time goes on I will update to only GFCI receptacles. I wad considering a GFCI breaker but the GFCI really needs to be at or near the source of the problem.

AFCI receptacles could end up becoming a standard in new houses in the near future, we shall see.


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## conifur (Apr 1, 2015)

I believe IMHO over kill. If any thing I would go with the arc fault b4 GFIs unless you are standing in water.


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

I have a 30A receptacle that has a GFCI breaker in the main breaker panel and a disconnect panel in my shop.
I didn't want a GFCI but code here requires GFCI in any outlet not in the house and all kitchen/bathroom outlets!
He told that my house, built in 1964, needs some updating on the other outdoor outlets, tough to do as all the wiring is two wire without ground!

Originally I had a 40A GFCI but the inspector said it was over rated load and I had to go back to the 30A!
So now I have a 40A GFCI that cost me plenty with no place to use it … *if you want/need it's available for $50, about 1/2 price.*


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## Tennessee (Jul 8, 2011)

I have standard 20 amp duplex outlets around the shop. No double gang boxes, but I do use UL approved power strips overhead plugged into the 20 amp outlets and the same style power strips on my benches, all with 15 amp breakers built into them. It is a rare day when I pop one of those strip breakers, but nice to know they are there.
No GFCI.

My major tools, like my table saw is on a dedicated 120VAC outlet. Same with my jointer but that stays unplugged most of the time due to space. The 220VAC stuff, planer, air compressor, large bandsaw get dedicated 220VAC outlets. I don't have enough 220VAC, so I can only plug in two at a time. But as a one person shop, I never run more than say, a bandsaw and a vacuum at the same time, plus lights, (on their own circuit), and a radio. Actually, I need to run another 220VAC circuit since I do have room in my panel so I can stop plugging in stuff when I need it.
I never blow breakers or heat up plugs save sometimes my planer pops its own internal overload if I try to take off too much wood at once. I also have all my outlets either on the wall or on the ceiling. I have low ceilings in my shop allowing me to reach up and plug in say, a ROS. I would rather have the cord going up or away than heading down. Much easier. No up-facing plugs since they gather up wood dust and can short out. Also not a fan of those shops where plugs are on the fronts of benches at waist level. I tend to knock out what is plugged in, which I think is a slight safety issue.


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## clin (Sep 3, 2015)

I use common 20 A outlets with 1 GFI upstream on each of the circuits. A GFI on every outlet seems unnecessary to me.

As far as where and how many. On a new wall I built to carve out my shop space from the rest of the garage, I have a row of outlets above workbench height and another row down low. I also have one dedicated 240 V and another 2 gang dedicated 120 V. Probably convert that dedicate 120 V to a 220 V someday to run dust collection.

Already have outlet in ceiling for garage door opener and also use that for room air filter. Added few more outlets to exiting wall with intent to add power strips wherever I feel the need (shop is still in process).


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## JollyGreen67 (Nov 1, 2010)

What ever you get, do not - repeat - do not buy those things that are marked "contractor grade" - pure junk!


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## EEngineer (Jul 4, 2008)

Small 1 1/2 car garage shop.

I have 3 X 20A circuits, all chained off of GFI outlets. The GFI outlets are ~1/4 the cost of GFI breakers. NEC requires GFI on all accessible outlets in a garage.

One of those 20A circuits has a timer and USB socket for charging. The timer prevnets overcharging my battery tools.

I have 2 X 15A circuits for lights.

I have one 20A, 220V circuit for an electric heater.

Arc-fault breakers do NOT work reliably yet. This is why they haven't been required yet. Stay away!


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## CTWith3 (Nov 9, 2015)

I have my lights, and soon my air cleaner, on a 15A circuit, receptacles on a 20A circuit, and both of my 220V receptacles are dedicated individual circuits.

My shop runs off a sub-panel and I ran out of room so I threw in 2 tandem circuit breakers to make room for my second dedicated 220V circuit.

I read somewhere that the 2014 NEC mandates all receptacles in a garage must be GFCI.

I'm still waiting to get the skinny on long the term application of AFCI.

The guys writing the NEC are killing my wallet.


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## PaulHWood (Mar 26, 2012)

I installed a subpanel to augment my outlets:

I have two 220V 20A circuits on one side of my garage (DC and power tool of my choice)

I have an additional 110V 20A circuit on this side as well sent to a GFCI quad box.

I then have a 110V 20A sent to my air filtration unit with a convenience outlet below.

To the other side where my bench and work areas are, I have two 110V 20A circuits, one dedicated to my golf cart charger, and the other split into many convenience outlets along the wall and a pull cord from the ceiling.

I kept the two original circuits which feed one convenience outlet, and my fridge/ chargers with the chargers being GFCI downstream from the fridge.

What I am really missing is more lighting!!!


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

> I have my lights, and soon my air cleaner, on a 15A circuit, receptacles on a 20A circuit, and both of my 220V receptacles are dedicated individual circuits.
> 
> My shop runs off a sub-panel and I ran out of room so I threw in 2 tandem circuit breakers to make room for my second dedicated 220V circuit.
> 
> ...


I know that, at least in VA, the 2012 code (IRC) requires all 125V 15/20A outlets in garages or unfinished spaces to be GFCI. AFCI is required in all bedrooms.


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## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

What do you mean "That's NOT up to code?" 
.
.


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

*CTWith3* , that's what I found out in California!
Garage outlets = GFCI


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## OggieOglethorpe (Aug 15, 2012)

It seems that you're starting from scratch, so simply install a GFCI breaker if that's what you want or code requires.

Installing GFCI outlets at every point on the same circuit seems like expensive overkill.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

Leviton 15 amp Decora outlets for my 110V stuff. I have nothing 20 amp, and no plans for it. Anything that requires that much draw will go to 220v which I have 30 amp sockets for…

Each circuit has a Leviton white GFCI outlet, which is why I went with Decora outlets, keeps the same face plates…


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

Only one gfi is needed per ckt at the home run. Gfi breakers cost more.


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## CTWith3 (Nov 9, 2015)

I'm not starting at scratch per se. My electric was in conduits mounted on the drywall, so I already have the 120V outlets, except for the GFCI I bought at HD the other day.

I have no interest in buying 11 GFCI receptacles, but he NM 12/2 has the manufacturing date of the wiring printed on it and I used the old wire elsewhere in my basement, so the question from an inquisitive official would be why didn't I use GFCI when remodeled.

About $200 for the 11 GFCIs, the wall plates, and the tax. I could buy some good tools with that money, but if it saves me even once it was worth the money.

Sometimes I hate playing by the rules, and I sleep just fine without AFCI in my bedrooms.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

No no no no

Change out the first rectacle in each circuit to a gfci. Not all of them.

Say that you have a circuit per double gang and another for the 4 singles.

In each double, take the hot and neutral coming into the box And put it on the line side of the gfci, and come off the load side of the gfci to the other receptacle.

In the singles, change the first receptacle in the run to gfci. Put the incoming hot and neutral on the line side and the outgoing hot and neutral on the load side.

In short, change out the first receptacle in the circuit to a gfci. Put the home run wires on the line side and put every thing after it on the load side. Line= power in, load= gfci protected power going out. Line and load will be clearly marked. Load side almost always has a sticker that you have to take off.

When where how the wire was manufactured has no bearing whatsoever really.


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## BurlyBob (Mar 13, 2012)

I went by the old adage 9 on a line. I've got the first out of the box is a gfi. I've basically got 8 outlets on each wall and each wall has it's own circuit breaker. Tried to keep things simple and it seems to work. I put in two 240 outlets and rarely do I have more than two outlets in use on a circuit.


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## Knothead62 (Apr 17, 2010)

You only have to have a GFCI on the first outlet in the line. Not needed for all outlets.


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## CTWith3 (Nov 9, 2015)

The one GFCI receptaiI hVe is the first receptacle in the run for my 20A circuit for my garage- it is about 1' away from my sub panel.

Thanks for the info, I know how to wire a GFCI, but maybe it will help someone else.

I have done a lot of electrical work in my time, so I know what I am doing, I just wanted to see what kind of receptacles people are using, be it residential , contractor, or commercial grade, standard duplex or Decora, and how people are responding to the GFCI requirement.

1 GFCI, with it being the 1st receptacle in line in the circuit out of our power distribution centers sounds cost effective, and I don't really want to spend all that money on GFCIs. Being that the wiring is brand new and I have used nailing plates and drew a map of all the electrical components in my garage so anyone can find any wireI feel pretty safe, but knowing what the current code requires and knowing that I am ignoring that requirement my conscience is nagging me. I'm sure you all have had that feeling.


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## CTWith3 (Nov 9, 2015)

Sorry sbout the sloppy post above, I was on the run and it's too late to be edited.

Here is a more readable version:

The one GFCI receptacle I have is the first receptacle in the run for my 20A circuit for my garage- it is about 1' away from my sub panel.

Thanks for the info, I know how to wire a GFCI, but maybe it will help someone else. I have done a lot of electrical work in my time, so I know what I am doing, I just wanted to see what kind of receptacles people are using, be it residential , contractor, or commercial grade, standard duplex or Decora, and how people are responding to the GFCI requirement.

1 GFCI, with it being the 1st receptacle in line in the circuit out of our power distribution center, sounds cost effective, and I don't really want to spend all that money on GFCIs.

Being that the wiring is brand new and I used nailing plates on the studs, and drew a map of all the electrical components in my garage so anyone can find any wire, I feel pretty safe; but, knowing what the current code requires and knowing that I am ignoring that requirement my conscience is nagging me. I'm sure you all have had that feeling.


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## Knothead62 (Apr 17, 2010)

I wired my shop with plain ol' outlets and boxes for residential use. Cant' remember the brand from Lowe's. Used 12/2 with ground as I don't have a need for 220/240 voltage.


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

All my 120 volt outlets are twenty amp circuits. I like the better quality outlets because I don't have to loop the wire, just stick in the back and clamp it down.

All my wall outlets are high enough I just reach out and plug them, which is about three feet off the floor, and just high enough a standard bench wouldn't hide them (so I make carts and things that do - just can win, when playing against myself).

My wall circuits leap frog each other so each outlet is on a different circuit that the one next to it. With that in mind, the north wall is two circuits. The west plus the south wall are two more. Then the east wall, separating my shop from the garage, is two circuits.

The ceiling has about six outlets off one circuit. I made twelve gauge extension cords so I could be anywhere in the shop and sand, router or saw without running a cord across the floor.

All my 240 volt circuits are ten gauge. Some think that's overkill, but I can run what I want on them, such as my three horse collector, which I know runs at fifteen amps and may eat more under severe load (e.g., filters plugged).

There are three 240 circuits in the ceiling for my dust collector, temporary heat and table saw. The walls have a couple more for a grinding station and the other collector, if I want to crank it up to 240.

I have about twenty lights in the ceiling, plus 14 gauge circuits and outlets for about fifteen more. They are on two three-way circuits, so power can go out on one and the other should be alive and well.

I've yet to install my circuit at the four foot door into the garage. It will have a motion activated light controlled the four foot door and the man door closest to it in the shop.

Each exterior wall has at least one GFI controlled outlet.

Exterior security lights are controlled at one door, nearest the house. The sensor for all of them is at the west end of the shop, because of the problem of them coming on too early or during dreary days. The switches for them are higher than average to make it less likely they will be shut off accidentally.


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## Tennessee (Jul 8, 2011)

Joe, I LOVE that picture - I had one of those when I changed my "garage", (loose term for a space below a sunroom that actually was not anything in particular, just a space that happened to have a garage door), and rewired it into three different circuits. It is absolutely amazing how many wires people will try to run through one box. Good heavens!!
My "garage" was only a garage in real estate terms. It didn't even hold a car very well, unless it was a small car. The low ceilings prevented my Suburban from going into it, so I thought - this is not a garage, it is a shop!!

I used to work on a few of my motorcycles in there around the woodworking tools, but sold off all but my dear Harley.
So it has been designated, and it stands as such to this day. A Woodworking Shop! And no GFI…


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

One other thing you might want to consider is ceiling hung reel extension cord.










I find mine very useful when I do sanding as it keeps cord of the the sanded surfaces.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

I prefer leviton 20A devices.

There isn't a code on gods green earth that requires 2 gfcis in line on one ckt. And if there is for some dumb reason, it won't be in a residential setting.


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## AZWoody (Jan 18, 2015)

I have a question on GFCI receptacles. I had heard before, and it was a long time ago that they aren't as durable when used with machinery, or other things that put a heavier load than the normal household items that they're normally used with.

Is that, or was that ever true or was that in the past and they're made better and able to handle machinery?


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## Crashcup (Feb 11, 2015)

Hi CT,

I'm new to this site, so not sure what the local "etiquette" is, but figured I'd throw my 2 cents in since I'm planning the electrical for my new basement shop.

Personally I don't have a problem buying cheaper receptacles, because it's not a big deal to replace if one breaks or plugs become loose in the receptacle. I won't buy the very cheapest ones at the store, but I can't afford to buy premium ones when I'm going to have 52 duplex receps overall (26 double-gang boxes). The large number of receps is for flexibility in the shop layout. When I finally get all the tools arranged, some receps will get used and some will not. Even the ones that get a machine plugged in won't get a lot of wear from plugging and removing.

I would second what someone said about screw terminals though. Wouldn't go for the push-in type terminals on the back; only terminals where you can tighten the connection with a screw.

You may be too far in your planning for this, but have you considered a 3-wire circuit? I will be using 3 in my shop, again for flexibility. Even after drywall, I'll be able to switch a receptacle from 120V to a 240V by rewiring inside the box.

Couple other things I noticed in this thread. GFCIs yes, are now required in all garage and unfinished basement spaces, not just accessible outlets. The NEC definition of "unfinished basement space" includes workspaces that aren't habitable rooms. Maybe a bit of grayness in that definition, so if your shop is in the basement and you're unsure, it would be best to ask your local inspector how he interprets that.

Also, AFCI breakers are now required in a bunch of living spaces, not only bedrooms. But shop space doesn't require it.

Good luck! I'm looking forward to seeing other people's shops on here, and possibly posting some pics of mine as things develop.

Keith


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## Crashcup (Feb 11, 2015)

Oops, just realized… what I said about GFCI and AFCI is based on the 2014 NEC. Where I live, Minnesota electrical code = NEC. Where you are, it might be NEC with modifications.


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## CTWith3 (Nov 9, 2015)

> One other thing you might want to consider is ceiling hung reel extension cord.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I have fond memories of those reels from auto shop in high school, but my ceiling height is 7' 6" and those reels would just clear my head, and be distracting.

My shop is a 1 car garage, and I will only be using 1 machine at a time plus dust collection, so a single 120/20V circuit plus two 240V receptacles will be enough. My lights are on a separate 15A circuit.

NEC dictates the code rules in the southern tier of NY, and maybe the whole state, so I am going to start replacing my standard receptacles with GFCI outlets- at the expense of my wallet.

I spoke to some local electricians I know, and who know me well, and they said bite the bullet in the garage, and address AFCI in the house when you want to spend the money or do any evident rewiring. I was told by them that a single GFCI in the first box on a home run does not satisfy code, and you want coverage where you are working at the time of an incident.

I'm putting grey Leviton Decora GFCIs in with matching nylon wallplates that will blend with the color I'm going to paint the garage. The receptacle used by the garage door doesn't have to be GFCI because it is on the ceiling. I'm thinking of sticking it and my air cleaner on a separate circuit.


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## bonesbr549 (Jan 1, 2010)

> I believe IMHO over kill. If any thing I would go with the arc fault b4 GFIs unless you are standing in water.
> 
> - conifur


+1 on what he said! You won't be hurting anything. It's only money.


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## EEngineer (Jul 4, 2008)

NEC dictates the code rules in the southern tier of NY, and maybe the whole state, so I am going to start replacing my standard receptacles with GFCI outlets- at the expense of my wallet.

I was told by them that a single GFCI in the first box on a home run does not satisfy code, and you want coverage where you are working at the time of an incident.

The receptacle used by the garage door doesn't have to be GFCI because it is on the ceiling.

You need to find different electricians to talk to or get a copy of the NEC and read it yourself. 2011 NEC specifically does allow a GFCI in the first box on a home run to protect the rest of the outlets in that run. Unless your local code is a lot more stringent (all I have run into follow NEC in this regard) there shouldn't be a requirement for GFCI at each outlet. The 2011 NEC specifically requires an outlet in the ceiling for the garage door opener to have GFCI.

You will regret putting AFCI's in the shop. Nuisance tripping on any brush motor (this includes hand drills, sanders, circular saws and anything with a universal motor) will force you to remove them. DAMHIKT. Most local codes still ignore AFCI requirements in the NEC because the damned things are so unreliable.


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## nmdusty (Nov 20, 2015)

Agree with Eengineer. I am an electrical journeyman and contractor.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

When I was installing electric into my 2 car garage, I read somewhere the outlets that you loop the wire under the screw are better than the ones your insert the wire into a hole and clamp. Honestly do not know which is better, but I went with loop electrical outlets.

Eengineer and dusty are correct: power > gfci outlet > regular outlet > etc. This picture is for simple reference only. In addition, I pigtailed all my regular outlefts except the GFCI's. ANY outlet that has a chance of the associated power cord coming into contact with water MUST be GFCI. Hence, even ceiling outlet has to be GFCI. Example: my ceiling outlet feeds my overhead 25' reel extension cord which comes in contact with the floor quite often.


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## CTWith3 (Nov 9, 2015)

I don't know if the 2 electricians I talked to do residential or commercial work. Maybe they do commercial work and are thinking about a garage at a service station or a dealer or a professional mechanic's shop and they thought by shop or garage I am talking about a place of business.

Another thing, doesn't everybody makes sure they are standing in a puddle before they turn their power tools on?


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## CTWith3 (Nov 9, 2015)

Stop the presses!

My wife had an idea: why not build a bigger workshop in the basement?

I have a 600 sq. ft. unfinished basement that is only 25-30% utilized, and it has 8' ceilings. Getting electric down there is easy because I already have a conduit for electric lines and cable TV running through a false wall from the garage through the wall of the room that separates the basement from the garage. The room has lots of lighting because my kids go downstairs so to get games, dog food, fishing gear, canned goods etc, and leave the lights on. I have 8 LED flood lights in my unfinished but insulated ceiling, which can easily be sheet rocked once all the electric is in. The only problem is that there is only 1 small window in the basement go natural light and fresh air. I do run daylight bulbs so it is pretty darn bright.

I could run a couple of 240V lines and another 2 120V lines very easily, have better head room for my air cleaner and could use my workbench I built years ago instead of setting up saw horses. It gets humid, not wet, but I already have a humidifier down there that I run when I remember. If I am down to here I will run it more to get a better handle on the humidity in the summer.

I can get full sheets of plywood into the basement because the door to my basement is straight across from the door from my garage into the halo use, and I would be able to work on my Harley without removing the car.

Anybody wok in their basement?


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

*CTWith3*, I had a basement shop when I lived in Illinois.
Working in a basement means you make projects that can go up the stairs or assemble outside the basement or have a partially exposed basement, and, you have the same issue with large stationary power tools.

But it can all be worked out and I really miss my basement shop, I now work in my garage which is not temperature or pest (wldlife or curious neighbors) controlled.


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## drcodfish (Oct 17, 2015)

Best tip I have seen here so far is the recommendation to leap frog outlets. especially if you tend to bunch your machines or plug in tools (like closer to the heat, the light, the door etc. It is a good way to spread the load between circuits with out having to move machines 'farther away' to connect to the 'less used' circuit.

I inherited a shop where the previous owner had installed multiple GFCI's on the circuits, too few circuits (only 2), and both 15A. It was a scavenger hunt at times to find the GFI which had popped (maddening!).


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## pjones46 (Mar 1, 2011)

You should check with your local electrical inspector so as to be compliant with your state and local codes. I know in my state, (PIA MA), we must meet and exceed federal requirements as well as state/local mandated code upgrades, and the insurance companies can refuse to pay if you should have an electrical fire dependant on if your system did not meet the standards at the time of installation or changes to that system.

In other words they make you bring the system up to code at the time of the changes.


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## JeffP (Aug 4, 2014)

I really like that Joe In GA picture. Might not be safe, might not be NEC kosher…but at least there is a LOT of it.

In my book, that is the most common mistake people make when outfitting a shop for electric. They "over do it", and still have about 1/3 as many outlets as they wind up needing.

What the OP described sounds like WAY under doing it to me. Forget about kind/quality/color/GFCI. Buy about 50 of the $2 a piece outlets at the big box store and use ALL of them.

NEC solution when the inspector comes? "Yeah, I don't know what that guy I bought this place from was thinking. I sure wouldn't do shoddy work like that."


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

I can't answer your question. But….. if you panel box is full and you need to run another circuit…...


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## JeffP (Aug 4, 2014)

Serious question about GFCI and grounding…

Have we EVER lost a lumberjock to electrocution in their shop?

I suspect and hope the answer is no, but if it has happened I would like to hear about it.


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## JeffP (Aug 4, 2014)

AlaskaGuy, I don't see any problem there.

Sure, you've got an aluminum wire, a zinc/steel screw, and a copper wire together, but…
At least you've got the screw well seated in the insulation to keep the air out.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

> I can t answer your question. But….. if you panel box is full and you need to run another circuit…...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I thought I'd seen it all in the last 45 years, but wonders never cease ;-) I've seen taps on the main service, but never quite like that one.


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## REO (Sep 20, 2012)

The red wire is the fusible link!
Per Code GFCI's can be used as the first outlet in a string of protected outlets. I had trouble when I split 110 off 220 in a four wire system. I had to put in individual GFCI's. I would get ghost trips when I used the 220. Although code requires a dedicated circuit for the heat regardless of current I am not sure that one is required or suggested for AC. Outlets exceeding 20 amps have to be 
individually protected and may not be served by the same breaker.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

> I had trouble when I split 110 off 220 in a four wire system. I had to put in individual GFCI s. I would get ghost trips when I used the 220.


Trying to take 220 off 2 110 circuits weren't ghost trips, they were the real deal. That unbalanced load missing on the neural will trip them every time.



> Outlets exceeding 20 amps have to be
> individually protected and may not be served by the same breaker.
> 
> - REO


The National electric Code allows circuits protected at higher than 20 amps to have multiple outlets. The outlets must be rated for the over protection device and the circuit cannot be intended to serve a piece of equipment rated higher than 50% of the ampacity of the circuit.


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## bonesbr549 (Jan 1, 2010)

> Serious question about GFCI and grounding…
> 
> Have we EVER lost a lumberjock to electrocution in their shop?
> 
> ...


I don't see how we would know as they would simply quit posting


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## WhyMe (Feb 15, 2014)

> I had trouble when I split 110 off 220 in a four wire system. I had to put in individual GFCI s. I would get ghost trips when I used the 220.
> 
> Trying to take 220 off 2 110 circuits weren t ghost trips, they were the real deal. That unbalanced load missing on the neural will trip them every time.
> 
> ...


But, the International Residential Building Code doesn't allow multiple outlets on a circuit greater than 20A. E3702.5 http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2012/icod_irc_2012_37_par012.htm


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

> I had trouble when I split 110 off 220 in a four wire system. I had to put in individual GFCI s. I would get ghost trips when I used the 220.
> 
> Trying to take 220 off 2 110 circuits weren t ghost trips, they were the real deal. That unbalanced load missing on the neural will trip them every time.
> 
> ...


Then that applies if the authority having jurisdiction adopts it. The National Electric Code was first published in 1897 and has been been the standard in the US and Canada for many decades. IMO, IRC's attempts to "simplify" is merely a big business effort use lower qualified labor and enhance profit margins.


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## Woodmaster1 (Apr 26, 2011)

I have 10 commercial grade outlets with a gfci outlet at the start of run. I also have 4 220 outlets one on each wall. My service is a 200 amp. I still have room to add if needed.


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