# Boiled Linseed Oil over Trans Tint



## Dj1225 (Apr 27, 2012)

I am making a dining table for a friend out of walnut and ash. The base is walnut, the top primarily ash, with some walnut inlay. Some of the walnut in the base had a hint of gray in it, so I used a little trans tint dye in alcohol to even out the color. It did great. Now I was planning on applying boiled linseed oil next to enhance the grain, and then a top coat.

I thought I recalled that boiled linseed oil was fine over TT, and on my test piece it seems to be fine. But I have a lot of hours in this project and really do not want to screw it up.

So any advice would be appreciated. Also suggestions for a durable top coat. I usually use waterlox over cured linseed oil, but not sure on this project. The lady wants the ash top as natural as possible.

In reading, I saw that a light coat of shellac and then poly might work for a durable finish.

The more I read, the dumber I get 

As always thanks for your input.


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## Kirk650 (May 8, 2016)

Most of the dyes I use are TT mixed in water, after that I usually use Watco Danish Oil or Minwax Antique Oil to pop the grain, rather than BLO. BLO is slow to dry, if ever. Then I use Waterlox. Good stuff.

These days I don't use BLO much at all. If you decide to use the Danish Oil, wait at least three days to let it dry before you put a finish over it. If you use the Antique Oil, just waiting a day should be Ok.

If you don't let the underlying material dry, the top coat may never dry. Ask me how I know that. 

Also, Waterlox is often used on house floors, so durability should be fine as long as you wait till it cures. I also use it on gunstocks and have been very pleased with the look and toughness.


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