# ridgid R4512:



## Tomj (Nov 18, 2011)

Seems like more and more signs keep popping up on why not to buy the r4512, I wonder if the steel city and rikon (similar except for the cabinet mounted trunnions) have the same problems when cutting hardwoods. I myself have like so many others on here have been debating which saw to buy (originally I was going for the r4512) but it just seems you can't win for under $1000. I"ll probably end up with the Craftsmen 22116 or a more expensive cabinet saw. Thank you for your review. The reviews on lumberjocks really make all the difference in the wourld when it comes to buying the right tool. Thanks again.


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## lumberjoe (Mar 30, 2012)

How do you have it wired and what blade are you using? I've never worked with mesquite, and I am not sure where it ranks on the hardness scale, but my R4512 cuts hard maple with no complaints at all. I have it wired 220. I have a Forrest WWII, but as other have suggested, I think this blade really performs best on a 3hp+ saw. I wish I did some better research before I picked it up. 
I find for ripping, especially hard woods, my Freud LM75R010 (glue-line rip 30 tooth) cuts a little easier on this saw. I don't get any chatter. burning, or slowing down, even with 9 foot long boards (4/4). When I want a REALLY clean cross cut, I use the LU74R010 from my miter saw blade stash. Again, no problems at all cutting hard maple. The included blade is terrible.


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## BPS238 (Feb 22, 2012)

I've had mine for about a year and have had no problems with maple, oak, and cherry. Rips 8/4 white oak with no problems at all. Haven't cut mesquite, though.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

I doubt the HP of the motor is the issue here…

is your saw tuned? what blade are you using - the factory supplied one with the saw or an after market blade (you should have gotten a better blade than what came with the saw)?

thre are other saws in the market with the same motor - and all cut hardwood up to 8/4 pretty well. - just saying.


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## StinkyPete (Jun 19, 2011)

I had a belt tension issue with my saw. Might be worth checking. If the belt comes loose, the saw is pretty useless.


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## Dwain (Nov 1, 2007)

I would suggest a new blade, possibly thin kerf that will work for either cross cutting or ripping. Also, I don't know if your issue is throwing a circuit. If that is the case, i would suggest re-wiring to 220. Those two things along with a good tune up should help out a lot. Remember, you don't have a 3HP cabinet saw there!


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## cso (Jan 15, 2011)

I had similar issues, I took it back to the store. Used thin kerf blades, wiring was perfect (no extension cords, no voltage drop issues). It was a pain to align the blade to miter slots as well.


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## JNP (May 6, 2011)

No problems here. I have gone through over 1,000 bd/ft of 5/4 and 6/4 hickory over the past few months and it performed like a champ. I do have the WWII thin kerf and a crosscut blade.


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## javelina (May 6, 2012)

Thanks for your comments on my R4512. I called Ridgid today and found out my saw only has .9548 HP. and they could not help me. This was the second R4512 I have had. The first one was so bad Ridgid told me to return it to Home Depot. I was having the same problem as I am having right now. I guest it's just the saw, because I am using good blades and I don't have trouble with pine. But when it comes to cutting pecan, mesquite, and hard mable the saw doesn't do a good job. I will however check the belt, and also see if I can change it to a 220 plug.


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## javelina (May 6, 2012)

I forgot to mention that I don't cross cut much with the R4512. I rip my boards.


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## Ken90712 (Sep 2, 2009)

I have the rigid 3650 which is basiclly the same saw just cpl yr's before yours. I have cut thousands of board feet on mine making over 200 cutting boards out of 8/4 Hard maple , Paduak, Walnut, Purple Heart ect. While I would like a 3 or 5 HP saw, mine works fine. Sound's like a blade issue. I like many others, use Forrrest's Wood Workers II blade. Once the blade starts gumming up I clean it and spray it with Dry Teflon. I user Krud Kutters form HD, which works well for clenaing the blade. Good luck.


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## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

I've been cutting 6 inch walnut with mine with no problem at all. Maybe it's your blade.


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## lumberjoe (Mar 30, 2012)

Are you sure your saw isn't heeling? You mentioned you mostly rip with with the saw. Have you made sure the fence is perfectly aligned with the blade? Also how is your power situation? Are you using any extension cords? What size breaker is on the circuit you plug into?

As I mentioned I've ripped a ton of hard maple lately and have not had any issues. I do notice a difference between hard and soft woods, but I wouldn't say hard woods are difficult. When I rip pine or poplar I can barely even tell there is a board passing through the blade. Hard maple offers a little resistance, but nothing that requires much effort. I don't get any bogging, binding or burning at all like I did on my little Ryobi I replaced.


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## wooddon (Jul 11, 2007)

I just got one and the only problem I have is gettinh the saw guard on.


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## RossPleban (May 1, 2012)

r4512 question: Does the riving knife raise and lower with the blade or does it have a finite set of positions?


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## lumberjoe (Mar 30, 2012)

It raises and lowers with the blade. You can use it both as a splitter (all the way up) or a riving knife.


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## crank49 (Apr 7, 2010)

I have the Craftsman 21833, same saw, different paint.
Never had a HP problem.
Constant battle to get and keep alignment.
Alignment issue will appear to be a power problem.

Get it aligned, clean sharp blade, and there's plenty of power.

If you want to further prove this, change to a 7 1/4" blade.
That will, from a mechanical point of view, be the same as changing to 2.41 HP.
If your alignment is out or your belt is loose, it will still bog down.


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## MTL (Feb 13, 2012)

No problems with the power on mine. The blade stays aligned to the miter tracks just fine for me but the fence is not as reliable. I have no problems cutting cherry, maple, oak and walnut on mine. Not overly satisfied with the fence but have no other issues with it,especially for the price.


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## nwbusa (Feb 21, 2012)

Meh… I call BS on this review. I rip 8/4 maple on my 4512 with zero problems. Nice try, though.


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## Robe5000 (Jan 15, 2012)

Ive ripped A ton of 3/4 oak flooring with this saw, cuts like butter, I recommend this saw to anyone


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## Bobmedic (Sep 24, 2010)

I have a 4512 and it rips great with my Freud thin kerf. I did tighten the belt up a little and it helped immensely. Saw is tuned well with riving knife in cuts 8/4 and 4/4 very well. Check your blade, set up and power source.


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## kajunkraft (May 7, 2012)

I really love my Ridgid 4512. Mostly use it to rip cedar and do not use an expensive blade. Does a great job for me. Absolutely no complaints.


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## MolokMot (Jan 11, 2012)

I know this is a little late in the game for this thread, but I had some problems cutting the thinnest of hardwood stock on this table saw and after hours of surfing across the internet I found a plausible issue… the belt was really really loose. The saw seemed to be bogging down, but in actuality it was the belt coming loose from the pulleys.

After figuring out how to tighten the belt, I have not had any issues with power and I have cut some pretty thick / tough stock with an "ok" blade bought at the big orange box store.

This was most helpful: https://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/t37714/


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## lumberjoe (Mar 30, 2012)

MolokMot - while you are messing with belts, replace it with a "link belt". You can find them everywhere online. Harbor freight has them as well and they are decent. Your saw will run much smoother. This is one of the cheapest and easiest ways to get better performance out of your (or any) belt driven saw.


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## UKCat (Sep 27, 2012)

I am very close to buying the 4512 . I currently have a cheap skil TS and this seems like very nice upgrade, especially if I upgrade the fence to an Incra.


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## JNP (May 6, 2011)

Do you have to replace the pulleys to go the to the link belt?


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## lumberjoe (Mar 30, 2012)

Yes


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## MolokMot (Jan 11, 2012)

It seems like it would be a lot of work to replace the pulleys, then again it took me about a week of research on the net to figure out how to tighten the belt. The manual is not very helpful as the picture and the instructions seem to be incorrect.

What pulleys does it require and where can you get them?

Regards,
MolokMot


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