# Table Saw blade options, thin kerf blade or standard 1/8"



## CalgaryGeoff

I'm just curious as to what type of blades we use most on our table saws, tooth count, kerf size, rip blade, cross cut blades and the list goes on with options available for table saw blades. Most of my work is on solid wood pieces usually thicknesses between 1/4" to 2 1/2" and starting with rough cut boards. I have a 10" table saw 2 hp, general 185 left tilt, contractor mounted on large rolling base with router table.

I use CMT 1/8" kerf blades, my go to blades are a 10" Glue line rip blade, 30 tooth, as well as a 10" Compound mitre Cross cut 80 tooth blade. I change between these two blades as required and they have performed perfectly for me and my projects.

8" Dado stack is used and makes oh such nice smooth flat bottoms.

I did find a thin kerf blade in my collection but don't recall knowingly using it.

So what do you use for your table saw go to or default blade/s ?


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## Loren

Full kerf blades yield cleaner cuts. The only reasons I use
a thin kerf is with a 110v saw.


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## knotscott

My blade inventory is down to a measly 25 ready to go blades that I have on hand. I'm currently running a 3hp cabinet saw, and have gradually replaced my thin kerf blades with full kerf simply because there's less incentive use TK blades now. When I had a 2hp contractor saw and 1-3/4hp hybrid, the saws had a noticeably easier time spinning a good TK blade. I tend to keep a good 40T Infinity Super General or 50T DeWalt ATB/R general purpose blade in the saw for convenience, but I'll switch to a specialty blade when there's a need…..60T Infinity Hi-ATB or 80T CMT Hi-ATB blade for more critical fine crosscuts and plywood, or a 20T Amana ripper if I have a lot of heavy ripping to do. I keep an 80T Leitz on my CMS.

There are pros and cons to each kerf width. I don't believe you can make a valid absolute statement that all full kerf blades make cleaner cuts than all TK blades. There are good and poor examples of each, and it's hard to tell the difference between the good ones…which is best is a matter of preference and circumstances. Both kerf widths will work with most saws, but a full kerf blade is typically 33% thicker than it's TK counterpart, and requires more power to make the same cut. If all else is equal, a thicker blade will tend to be more stable than a thinner blade, but if the blade is well made, it generally requires some lateral pressure to make any blade deflect significantly. Sharpness and basic quality are key in either kerf width….keeping them clean, will yield better results and will keep them sharp longer. It's especially important that your blade is at least as wide as your splitter or riving knife, or the work piece will bind.

Tips for picking saw blades
Current saw blade bargains

Current blade roster:
80T CMT 210.080.10 Hi-ATB 
80T Leitz Pro TK Neg hook ATB
60T Infinity 010-060 Hi-ATB
60T DeWalt DW7646 ATB
60T Leitz/Delta ATB
60T Onsrud TCG
50T Tenryu RS25550 ATB/R
50T Infinity Combomax Lite ATB/R
50T DeWalt DW7640 ATB/R
42T Onsrud ATB
40T Infinity Laser TK 010-046 
40T Craftex Blue Tornado ATB
40T Infinity Super General 010-044 Hi-ATB 
40T Forrest WWII TK ATB
40T Delta 35-7657 40T ATB 
40T Oshlun ATB 
30T Delta 35-7653 ATB ripper
24T Leitz/Irwin Woodworking series FTG TK ripper
20T Amana Tools RB1020 FTG ripper
10T Leitz/Delta FTG
Dado set - Infinity Dadonator

< 10" 
60T Freud Diablo D0640 (6")
24T CMT (8-1/4")
24T Bosch CRB724 (7-1/4")
20T PC Razor (7-1/4")


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## Blackie_

I'm not one that likes to changes blades on the table saw, call me lazy  I have an older Hitachi C10FL 10" Table Saw that's no longer made that I purchased from Lowes many years ago, since I do a lot of box and finger joints, mitered splines and such I've been using the Forrest single grind 1/8" flat kerf blade and just use it for everything, in the miter saw I have a low end avanti 60 tooth finishing blade.


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## HorizontalMike

I hate math… and figuring with a full kerf 1/8in. blade in the mix, is a lot easier! *;-)*


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## CharlieM1958

I have a 1.5 HP contractor saw, so power is somewhat of an issue. For a long time, I used a Forrest WWII full kerf combination as my main blade, and I was very happy with it. (The reason I went with full-kerf at the time is that the thin-kerf blade that came with my saw had hang-up issues with the blade-guard/splitter assembly.)

After I ditched the OEM splitter for a Micro Jig splitter setup, I decided to see how a good quality thin-kerf would perform. I bought a Freud Fusion TK combo blade that I saw several folks recommend, and I run it with a blade stabilizer. The cut quality is every bit as good as the Forrest full-kerf, and the saw does not struggle at all now. It's like a hot knife through butter. Needless to say, that's the blade that stays on my saw now, unless I'm using my dado stack.

At 2 HP, I guess you might be sort of on the borderline. I think it would be worth your while to try a good thin-kerf blade. You might find enough improved performance to make you think about sticking with it.


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## SamuraiSaw

2 things will dictate full kerf vs thin kerf; hp and depth of cut. Lower hp saws definitely benefit from thin kerf as they are take less muscle to spin through the wood. However, as the depth of cut increases the likelihood of blade warp increases exponentially. Stabilizers help, but also limit the depth of cut. When using a contractor style saw I typically use a thin kerf blade, but our cabinet saws are all full kerf.

If you're getting good results with full kerf blades, there's no reason to change. I doubt you'll see any improvement and more likely will see degraded cuts.


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## lew

a couple of standard Combo blades, an old thin kerf blade and a standard rip blade


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## BillWhite

Full kerf combo, thin kerf ripper, thin 80 th. crosscut are the standards for my shop. I have multiples from Freud, Onsrud, and Infinity.
Bill


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## GT350

I use a Forrest WWII full kerf on my 1 3/4 hp Sawstop. It has plenty of power to use a full kerf blade so I don't see any reason for the thin kerf blade. I don't like changing blades a lot either so unless I need to use my dado set I just leave the one blade on and it works good for me.
Mike


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## luv2learn

Geoff, I use a variety of 8" Skill saw blade configurations in my table saw unless I really have a thick piece to cut. Why, because they are cheaper. But that is just me. Currently I have an 8" thin kerf 40 tooth combination blade on my saw that has lasted for a long time.


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## bigblockyeti

I usually have a Delta ATB combination blade mounted up as I have several on hand. If I'm cutting something that's could damage or quickly dull the blade, I'll use a thinner kerf Freud Diablo blade. If I'm making several cuts where minimum kerf is required and surface finish and speed aren't high priorities, I'll use a much smaller, very thin kerf blade for a cordless circular saw. This is only done when the bandsaw won't work for what I'm trying to accomplish.


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## gfadvm

I use the 40 and 24 tooth Diablo blades in my 2 HP Grizzly and have been well pleased with them.


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## darthford

knotscott good lord! lol I have a couple full kerf Forest blades, one for ripping one for cross cuts on a 3HP cabinet saw.


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## amagineer

I use a Forrest WWII thin kerf and a Freud Fusion TK combo blade.
-don


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## OggieOglethorpe

My normal usage includes examples of Forrest WWII 40t, Chopmaster 80T, Freud 18, 24, and 30T rip blades, and a melamine blade, all full kerf. I have two of most, one is either unused or out for sharpening, the other is in use. A pair of 24T rips are married, and mated to spacers for dual blade tenoning.

I don't keep track of the stack that I don't use…


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## mrbreezeet1

*It's especially important that your blade is at least as wide as your splitter or riving knife, or the work piece will bind.*

I'm confused now, and won't know what BORK to get if I decide, as I have both TK and full. 
I thought on the BORK site he said the thin BORK was for all blades.


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## PaulDoug

I've used full kerf for a long time except for one little blade, it is a diablo and has a 1/16" kerf. I use it only on 1/4" stalk and smaller when I want a real clean cut, like on 1/4" BB plywood. It is a great little blade. Other than that I pretty much have been completely satisfied with Frend. A while back I forked out the money for a Forrest II thin kerf. It's a good blade but I do not get any better cut that I do with the Frend blades. I could have bought 2 Frends for the price of the Forrest blade. I now have an Incra fence on my saw and it is much easier doing the math with a 1/8" kerf than a 3/16" kerf. The Forrest blade gets used less and less.


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## CharlesA

Once I discovered that you don't have to tighten the blade down too much, I became much more likely to change blades. I now use the "hold the blade with one hand and the wrench with the other" when I change blades and it works great. I used to just bear down on the wrench getting it tight as possible.

I have an older Craftsman contractor with a ZCI, so I use only thin kerf blades. If I had a cabinet saw, I'd switch to full.


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## ClintSearl

After 40 years of various 10" blades, I converted to an 8" Freud Fusion combo. It'll do 95% of what needs doing with more friendliness. I also found that 12 Ga wiring on a 20 amp circuit allows the saw to run at full tilt without bogging down.


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## CharlesA

Clint, what does "with more friendliness" mean?


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## WhoMe

Early 80's vintage Craftsman contractors saw advertising 2 1/2hp (known to be false)
Here. I have learned that thin kerf blades are the way to go on that saw.
So a Diablo 24t rip, a Diablo 40t combo/crosscut that stays on most of the time and a 80t for fine cuts and veneers/melamine cuts. The 10" sliding compound mitre has a nice 60t Diablo mitre blade. Been pretty happy with the Diablos but may look into the Freuds.
When I increase to a 3hp cabinet saw, I will have to see on blades. At that point, Amana, Forrest and a couple other names come to mind.


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## ClintSearl

Charles, I swapped out a Ridge 10" 40 tooth combo in favor of the 8" Freud, and the Freud feels like it cuts with less effort and less screaming aggressiveness. The only thing I use a 10" blade for is heavy/hardwood ripping, which is rare.


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## CharlesA

Thanks, Clint. BTW, @whome, Diablo blades are Freud blades.


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## AnniesDad

Please forgive me , I'm not a Professional woodworker, but rather a job site contractor who has questions about blade life. I bought a rip blade today labeled as contractor grade made by CMT (I hope listing a manufacturer is not a problem). The blade made 10' in a glue worthy joint in a Menards 2×4 (very straight as are all the others in this days work I'm as picky as my time will allow ). The second 2×4 the push was almost double. By the eighth cut (80') the cut was furry and the push was bad. The blade was tossed out at 2x # 17 with some foul words. I think a blade should last longer… So my question starts here… I have a pile of forty blades I hate to toss blades out as i keep them for foam and plastic cuts or perhaps steel doors or whatever else they were never meant to do. A resharpen here costs 15 per blade so a cheaper blade never goes in. Is a higher priced blade really going to save me money on the jobsite? will I get 50 30 degree rips of 10' 2×4s before i need to spend another $15.00 to resharpen it. How many resharpens should i expect per blade? 3 or 4 or more,,, or… less? I'm thinking about Freud or The thinner Diablo's as we run job-site saws no 3 hp saws on the job-site.


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## knotscott

> Please forgive me , I m not a Professional woodworker, but rather a job site contractor who has questions about blade life. I bought a rip blade today labeled as contractor grade made by CMT (I hope listing a manufacturer is not a problem). The blade made 10 in a glue worthy joint in a Menards 2×4 (very straight as are all the others in this days work I m as picky as my time will allow ). The second 2×4 the push was almost double. By the eighth cut (80 ) the cut was furry and the push was bad. The blade was tossed out at 2x # 17 with some foul words. I think a blade should last longer… So my question starts here… I have a pile of forty blades I hate to toss blades out as i keep them for foam and plastic cuts or perhaps steel doors or whatever else they were never meant to do. A resharpen here costs 15 per blade so a cheaper blade never goes in. Is a higher priced blade really going to save me money on the jobsite? will I get 50 30 degree rips of 10 2×4s before i need to spend another $15.00 to resharpen it. How many resharpens should i expect per blade? 3 or 4 or more,,, or… less? I m thinking about Freud or The thinner Diablo s as we run job-site saws no 3 hp saws on the job-site.
> 
> - AnniesDad


Edge depends on several variables, so it can be really hard to accurately pinpoint a cause for premature dulling. Tooth count, sharpness, appropriateness for the task, and carbide hardness are among the most obvious. I've used CMT Industrial blades, generally with good results, but not the Contractor grade….my guess is that it's made from softer carbide and lower grade stamped steel. It may have also not been as sharp as expected from a new blade….they don't always come from the factory as planned, so you may have had a defective blade.

The saw's alignment is another big factor in blade life. If the alignment isn't spot on, there will be extra heat, which will dull the blade prematurely. Blade height is another factor….higher blade height runs cooler.

You said the blade was a rip blade, but didn't mentioned tooth count. I'd expect it to be around 24T, which would be about right for that task. I'd also expect that the Contractor grade blade is a 3/32" thin kerf? You should have longer edge life with something like the CMT ITK Plus P10024, Freud LU87 or Freud Diablo D1024, or Irwin Marples 24T, but it's not a given.


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## Carloz

A full kerf blade wastes 1/3 more wood and produces 1/3 more dust. If you often rip to rather thin strips that translates into substantial material waste. Even for wider strips if often happens that if you rip with a full kerf you would need to select another wider board, which again is a waste.


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