# how good is a Delta 34-444 table saw?



## liketosail (Jan 31, 2013)

I just got a Delta saw for 50 dollars on cl with mobile base. And wanted to know more about it.


----------



## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

You stole that saw! I had one for about 11 years before I sold it to buy a Unisaw. I bought mine new around 1989, with a 30" Unifence it ran about $500. The factory motor one those were de-rated to 1.5HP (120V) to meet some UL requirements, they are really 2 HP motors. (the motor says 1.5/2HP, 120V/240V) I can tell you that the upgrade to a Unisaw did absolutely nothing for me in terms of capabilities. Yep, it doesn't labor as much ripping thick hardwood, but in terms of accuracy and capability it has no advantage over the 34-444 (IMHO, of course). The saw itself is USA made and i wound up ottuing PALS on mine and a link belt. Both were well worth the cost. The biggest downside is the stamped wings, they seem to be crap….but they still did the job. Congrats!


----------



## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

Super deal! At that price, it's downright profitable….the motor is worth more than you paid, and all the other parts are worth something…. it's a solid basic contractor saw. AFAIK, it was made in the USA. It should clean up pretty nicely with some elbow grease. Align it, and put a good blade on it. Down the road, you might consider selling the stock fence for $50-$75, and buying something like a Delta T2 for ~ $165 shipped. Please show us some "after" pics when you're done.


----------



## Tedstor (Mar 12, 2011)

Once you clean it up, it will make for a good "tool gloat" post.
$50 for a quality, US-made table saw is a steal. 
The stock fence might be fine, and if it is, stick with it. But as KS said, a Delta T2 would be a fantastic upgrade, and should be a direct bolt-on accessory. 
For just over $200, you'd have a saw that would keep-up with any modern contractor saw. And it'd run circles around any new saw you could buy for $200. 
Nice find!!


----------



## liketosail (Jan 31, 2013)

The rails for the fence are bent bad and so a t2 fence is next in line …also today I am buying a craftsman eighty model table saw that was never run or completely put together for $50 dollars.
I will post a picture later .


----------



## Tedstor (Mar 12, 2011)

Two table saws? Are you planning to flip one of them? 
"80 Model"? If you're looking at a Craftsman table saw from the 80's, its almost definitely a 113 series. I have one with a T2 fence. In case you weren't aware, the whimpy stock fence on the 113 is a complete POS. Otherwise, the 113 is a very capable saw….with a proper fence upgrade.


----------



## History (Dec 22, 2012)

I've been a woodworker for about 30 years, I have a Delta 34-444 with a 30" Unifence and a fullsize mobile base, I bought the saw new in 1995 from ACME Electric ( Tool Crib of the North ) and I paid $900 for it as a 34-445X package deal ( I still have the receipt ) . Since then I've added a removeable outfeed table that was made for the saw and made by Delta, I added a paddle switch to it without butchering the factory wire ends, and wired it for 230V, I added a Fenner Drives PowerTwist belt to it, then I designed dust collection for it that works very well and is user friendly. It's been a great saw and will more then likely be my last. Over the years I've built alot of stuff with the saw and it works as well as the day I bought it. It's a very well built Contractor's saw. Weather you got a great deal on your saw or not is hard for me to tell without looking it over better and turning it on. All I can see in the picture is that it needs a good cleaning up, and that takes time. I've flipped a few Delta Contractor's saws, I like them so well that I kept a Rockwell 9" Contractor's saw for my other shop, a used Unifence that I have may be going on that saw soon.


----------



## SamuraiSaw (Jan 8, 2013)

If the Craftsman has the cast iron wings it will be a better saw. Like Ted said, the fence is junk. I put a Vega on mine and really loved it. Either way, you'll have a saw, or saws, that will serve you well.


----------



## History (Dec 22, 2012)

*If the Craftsman has the cast iron wings it will be a better saw.* Thats simply not true. The open webed cast iron wings that were on a good majority of Craftsman Contractors saws were finger pinchers and not all that desirable. Plus A Delta saw will hold it's resale value much better then a Craftsman.


----------



## SamuraiSaw (Jan 8, 2013)

I've used both and the Craftsman is a better saw. It is left tilt, which is more accurate and safer.


----------



## Tedstor (Mar 12, 2011)

Resale value? I'm not sure thats a concern on a $50 saw.  
Keep in mind that this particular Delta has a bent fence rail and stamped wings. 
Just sayin'


----------



## History (Dec 22, 2012)

*I've used both and the Craftsman is a better saw. It is left tilt, which is more accurate and safer.* How is a left tilt more accurate ?


----------



## History (Dec 22, 2012)

It's not a big deal Ted, the fence would probably have to be replaced on both saws, and cast iron wings for the Delta can be found if you think that you have to have them. Mine has a stamped steel wing, I would of changed the one that the saw has, but one of the requirements on the Delta outfeed table for that saw is that the saw has stamped steel wings, you could say that it's a tradeoff, but reality is that cast wings add weight for stability, well I added the weight to the rear of the saw by adding the outfeed table, and the extension table to the right is a 1/4" steel sheet.. The outfeed table is more important to me then a cast wing.


----------



## SamuraiSaw (Jan 8, 2013)

*"How is a left tilt more accurate ?"*

I'd try to explain it to you, but you wouldn't understand.

The webbed design is still in use today. If you got your fingers pinched perhaps you were not using the saw properly. I found the design quite desirable and wore out 2 Craftsman saws. The Delta lasted less than a year.


----------



## ClintSearl (Dec 8, 2011)

It's been my TS since 1982.


----------



## History (Dec 22, 2012)

No pictures Sam, it didn't happen. *I'd try to explain it to you, but you wouldn't understand.* Oh I'd love to hear the explanation Sam, try me.


----------



## History (Dec 22, 2012)

Nice clean looking saw Clint, I also like the old Classic Rockwell / Delta crows foot stand that you have.


----------



## Tedstor (Mar 12, 2011)

OK. Maybe you're right. Just keep in mind that this saw was ultimately sold for 50 bucks. I'm thinking the fence rail was probably a factor in the pricing. And even in decent shape, I've seen plenty of those Delta's sell for $100-200. Most Craftsman 113s sell for $100-150. 
I just don't see resale as a significant detail between the two saws. No one is getting rich or going broke in either case. 
Just my opinion.


----------



## History (Dec 22, 2012)

Hard to say Ted, we don't really know the condition of the saw. He may have got a great deal on it, or there maybe something wrong with it. From that picture you can't accurately tell how it was takein care of. Like a car, you gotta test drive it. I'd say if the $50 saw is in good condition after a good cleanup, and adjustments if needed, then it's worth atleast $225 - $300, and to me in todays market of over priced import junk, even thats a steal.


----------



## liketosail (Jan 31, 2013)

I picked up the craftsman saw this morning its a 113 model number, was told it is a 1976 model. Is complete saw has never been run or fully put together …..motor is still in the box.

I bet there's not many saws out there this old and in this condition.


----------



## Tedstor (Mar 12, 2011)

WOW! Nice find.


----------



## SamuraiSaw (Jan 8, 2013)

Dump the Delta and use the money to buy a good fence for the Craftsman.

I'll take a left tilt over a right tilt any day!


----------



## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

*"Dump the Delta and use the money to buy a good fence for the Craftsman."*

Make it shine, then "Dump the Delta and use the money to buy a good fence for the Craftsman." ;-)

Wonder if a motor swap would work….are the motors reversible?


----------



## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

Congrats on both saws


----------



## liketosail (Jan 31, 2013)

Good afternoon, I am not new to work working or to table saws I have had many in the past including. A new Powermatic 66 and a jet contractors saw so now I am working my way back up to a used cabinet saw ….like. a Delta ….I have been using CL to find these saws at what seems to good to pass up.
my last three saws was only $50 each! 
Although I have the craftsman for only 50 I bought a nice Powermatic. Model 63 for 400 and one owner. No rust! Sounds like I am talking about a car!
see photo 
My point is there are great deals


















out there …..you just have to look.


----------



## runswithscissors (Nov 8, 2012)

I had the Rockwell version of that saw, bought new in the early 70s. I grew to despise that saw, and when I let it go, it was a tossup which divorce was the biggest relief-from my first wife, or the saw. I wish I'd convinced her to take it as part of the divorce settlement.

I got rid of the fence as soon as I could. It was annoying that you couldn't just pick it off the table, but had to slide it all the way to the end to get it out of the way. And even though it locked down at the far end, it wasn't solid, and had to be measured at both front and rear of the blade for every change of cut. I replaced it with a homemade T square fence, which was quite satisfactory.

When you started it up, the blade would jump up about 3/16", which did matter when depth of cut was critical. One would assume that this behavior could be corrected by tightening the blade height knob, but they had left only 2 or 3 threads sticking out for the knob, so after a few minutes of vibration and shaking (yes, it was a rough running beast), the knob would drop off. Apparently QC was on strike when the thing was made.

The arbor pulley had a habit of creeping out on the shaft until finally it would be rubbing on the sheet metal cabinet. It was a bitch to get it back in place and lined up, and it didn't matter how much I tightened the set screw, it was bound to happen again. The plastic belt guard liked to nuzzle up to the belt, so that the belt could melt grooves in it. Etc, etc, etc.

That doesn't mean you won't be happy with your saw. Maybe I am just too finicky and nitpicking, though some people say I actually have very low standards. I bought a used Unisaw off CL a few years ago, built a custom rack and pinion fence for it, and just finished (today) an honest-to-gosh riving knife for it that actually works the way it should (I'll do a write up with pics soon on that). The Uni is everything the contractor's saw wasn't, and I am not at all tempted by the SS.


----------



## liketosail (Jan 31, 2013)

I hope to get a used unisaw this weekend out of state ….only its 3 phase. But its cheap and looks like its in good shape. ...I am selling two of my saws to help pay for the. Unisaw …I will post pictures when I get it.I do miss my 66 Powermatic. O well


----------



## SamuraiSaw (Jan 8, 2013)

Scott,

Good question. I know the Craftsman motors were dual voltage, but don't have a clue if they are reversible.


----------



## History (Dec 22, 2012)

Thats quite a story Runswithsissors. Scott, Why would you swap motors ?


----------



## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

*"Scott, Why would you swap motors ?"*

I'd assume the Delta has a bit more brawn than the Emerson motor, but I could be wrong, and it might not be noticeable. Just wondering…


----------



## SamuraiSaw (Jan 8, 2013)

*"I grew to despise that saw, and when I let it go, it was a tossup which divorce was the biggest relief-from my first wife, or the saw. I wish I'd convinced her to take it as part of the divorce settlement."*

ROFL…..........

I've seen several delta contractor saws that made better boat anchors. I know, I just committed blasphemy.


----------



## History (Dec 22, 2012)

*I've seen several delta contractor saws that made better boat anchors.* Some people don't know how to maintain a piece of equipment.


----------



## cdf (Oct 4, 2014)

I have owned a Delta 34-444 for 23 years and, with modifications, it has performed brilliantly! At purchase time I upgraded the fence to an easily adjustable 32" Delta Unisaw and a Biesmeyer Splitter which gave me the assurance of accurate rip cuts without the hazard of kickback. I later added a Incra SE 1000 Mitre Gauge and Fence and the PALS trunnion adjustment system. B.T.W. - I have not had to make a single truninon adjustment since aligning with PALS. And. . .I have an annual maintenance schedule with an outside provider. This is an American made table saw with a stamped wing on the left side. There have been no issues regarding a flat surface for rip/or mitre cuts. With the addition of a Woodsmith designed 8/4 solid Oak stand with drawers for dust control and storage and a Jet 1100 Cannister Dust Collector this machine produces excellent dust control. For my shop production this saw meets all standards that I have set for it and I cannot justify making a change. If you have an opportunity to pick up one of these machines and upgrade as I have, you'll be very pleased with it's performance. Keep in mind that many replacement parts are difficult to find, but, I've never had to seek any! This machine receives my highest recommendation for table saws performing well with 4/4 or 5/4 lumber.


----------



## onewoodworker (Feb 15, 2015)

I have one of these. I use it in my shop every day. I bought it at a yard sale about 5 years ago. I think I paid 75 dollars for it. The only problem I have ever had was the up and down adj. became a little bit tight. I think I need to replace the pin that the blade pivots on. I have not been able to fine one. If anyone has a spare one laying around, toss it in the mail to me  But all in all, this is a really solid saw. Would love to know how old it is.


----------



## RichardHillius (Oct 19, 2013)

Can't complain for that price even if you have to replace the fence. I have had the same saw with cast iron wings and UniFence for a very long time now and while I am planning on replacing it with a cabinet saw when I get more room the main reasons are power and I like riving knifes than any complaint about the saw itself.

You did get a killer deal. You could probably sell the blade guard alone for more than that price on EBay as they are a bit rare these days.

How does it run?


----------



## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

*How does it run?*

Given that this thread was from a couple years ago, and the OP hasn't posted anything since, I wouldn't hold your breath waiting for an answer 

Cheers,
Brad


----------



## indyj (Nov 29, 2017)

I have this saw as well and just purchased it on C L for $75. The rockwell unifence issues I had have been resolved thanks to the assistance of several members here on LJ's! I'm currently dealing with a new z
Set of issues pertaining to the motor plate assembly and its unyielding vibration caused by improper maintenance or lack thereof….. The springs loaded mounting plate for the motor allows the old "v" belt to make the vibration more pronounced than it should because the belt has molded itself to the two pulleys and I'm not certain that that issue is the sole problem for the saw's vibration….? Any "for starters" recommendations anyone could suggest? Taking into concideration, I will change the belt to a new one that's not seated in two places! The tension seems adequate because of just manually applying pressure to the mother plate during operation seems to be stressing the motors RPM and compromising it's natural potential? This saw also has the stamped wings & the 52" Unifence rail….. It came with a home made table extension to accommodate the fence rails but I intend to replace wing extension with a custom cabinet style shop made rendition for more storage. The saw will be stationary. I need to move a loft stairway to modify my shop layout to better fit this saw and another craftsman and or B&D 10" table saw(s) that is or are to be used as my "dado" set up…. Any info on stopping the vibration factor with this delta Saw please send your ideas and input! Otherwise I will modify it to be my dado set up and revamp the craftsman with a 52" Jet fence( still in the box) I have. Thanks again! 
indyj


----------



## woodbutcherbynight (Oct 21, 2011)

Try a link belt. I have a Delta 34-410 and a Delta 34-441 both run very well with link belts. Do note the link belts stretch and links should be removed from time to time. Look at it this way, when you remove links it is time for routine maintenance.


----------



## indyj (Nov 29, 2017)

Hi woodbutcherbynight, are your saws' motor mounting plate also equipped with a spring loaded like hinged bracket? This 34-444 has a doing that allows a, what seems like to me anyway, a lot of flex in the belt tensioning adjustment. It seems way to flexible for what it's got to handle. I've made a few cuts with the saw both beveled and rips and it seems to cut well with no draw down on the motor but the vibration on a scale of 1 to 10, is a seven where my motorized 10"craftsman I can put a long stem wine glass on the webbed wings and it'll never spill or walk the table even being on an unlevel surface…. I have an inoperable craftsman 10" saw without the pulley and motor and it's motor bracket doesn't have the spring loaded bracket. It is a rigid plate and mounting plate that's mounted directly to the saw and has adjustable bolts and alignment bolting capabilities for the motor pulley to the arbor pulley…. I'm not used to this type of configuration for table saws as I've always had my direct drive craftsman saw, with the exception of another "cable driven" craftsman saw that it failed two times in 4 years of ownership! Can you elaborate on your saws' motor mounting plates or a picture of the bracket with the motor fastened to it? I think it (my motor) needs to be re-aligned or squared up to the arbor pulley because mine looks crooked?


----------



## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

If your motor and arbor pulleys are not in alignment, you will get a lot of vibration and it will eat the belt in pretty short order.

Cheers,
Brad


----------



## indyj (Nov 29, 2017)

Thanks Brad!.... I just purchased the saw as you know with the unifence issue and hS since been cleared up. That's to aLJ's' help with finding the correct manual for the fence!
It's to be in the low thirties in the am here in Nashville TN so I'll not be hanging out at the shop tomorrow but the motor sets a bit crooked in its position related to the saw and the arbor…. Apparently the saw, had been setting for a while because the v belt currently on the saw has two seats in it from no use so that too is part of the vibration I believe. I've got a lot to learn getting this saw functioning on all 8 cylinders again! I'll be asking for info often and hope everyone here at LJ can stand me pick n thier brains for ideas and options to restore this saw! I'm definately going to a link belt when I've got the alignment much more accurately set! Thanks again! Indyj


----------



## woodbutcherbynight (Oct 21, 2011)

Sounds like your belt is stretched and has two spots. That tension arrangement has worked well for me for many years. Get a new V belt or link , check the alignment of the belts to be square b y adjusting the motor on the bracket and you should be up and running.


----------



## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

These saws really benefit from link belts, 220V, and machined pulleys.


----------



## EBP (Dec 25, 2017)

> I ve got a lot to learn getting this saw functioning on all 8 cylinders again!
> - indyj


Newbie here-Greetings to everyone.

A number of years ago, I bought a 34-444 from a carpenter who was doing some work for me. I'm now finally ready to set it up for use at a friend's, where I'll be refacing her kitchen cabinets.

Tomorrow I'll start with the following Delta Blade Alignment Procedures - Contractor's saw models 34-444 and 34-445Z series which I located last night. The alignment procedure includes making certain the tie-bars are parallel, which I hadn't considered, when it was necessary to remove the motor to get the unit through her narrow basement door. To remove the motor, I had removed the tie-bar lock nuts to quickly pull off the motor and its mount. Obviously, I now need to thoroughly check the blade alignment.

The last post to this thread is reassuring: "Wow. I've had the 34-348 for about 25 years, and I've never gotten the blade this straight. It's like a new saw! thanks."

Toward the end of this Blade Alignment Procedures thread is this link to this procedure, which was provided by Delta: Blade Alignment Instructions for Original Contractors-Type Saws - when the saw has two Tie-Bars

Before I start thinking about giving up on the original Jet rip fence of this unit, which appears to be only a few thousands out of alignment along the length of the miter gage slot, I'm going to try adjusting it according to the instructions on page 17 of the Model 34-444 Instruction Manual

Good luck to you. Hope this saves you some time.

P.S. -Almost forgot:

YouTube video of aligning the Tie-Bars: 




YouTube video of aligning the blade, using a homemade PALS setup: 




YouTube video of the actual PALS alignment hardware: 



The PALS kits are $20.00 plus shipping: http://www.in-lineindustries.com/products/contractor-saw-pals/


----------



## Hockey (Apr 9, 2017)

I haven't looked at all the posts in this old thread. In any event, I have this saw, and have had it since new in 1993. It runs great on 110v. Have the link belt and steel machined pulleys on it.


----------



## EBP (Dec 25, 2017)

> Have the link belt and steel machined pulleys on it.
> 
> - Hockey


Where did you get the pulleys and belt? Are they a particular brand? - just started looking into that; and, see that you have to occasionally remove links, when the belt stretches?


----------



## Hockey (Apr 9, 2017)

> Have the link belt and steel machined pulleys on it.
> 
> - Hockey
> 
> ...


I don't recall where I got them. That was back in around 1994 or so when the saw was still kind of new. I may have some info as to the brand of pulley and belt. I'll try to remember to check tomorrow.


----------



## EBP (Dec 25, 2017)

> That was back in around 1994 or so when the saw was still kind of new. I may have some info as to the brand of pulley and belt. I ll try to remember to check tomorrow.
> 
> - Hockey


Have you ever had a link belt come apart while in use? Does it stretch to the point that could happen?


----------



## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

> That was back in around 1994 or so when the saw was still kind of new. I may have some info as to the brand of pulley and belt. I ll try to remember to check tomorrow.
> 
> - Hockey
> 
> ...


Of all the link belts in use (including the ones I had) I don't recall anyone ever mentioning that one "came apart". The good ones (Fenner) don't stretch in use, but it may take a while for all the links to set….during which time the belt may lengthen a little. Also, be sure to look up which way they go (directionally), they can and often are put on backwards. I talked to Fenner about how long it takes the links to set and they claimed it was just a few minutes of running. It didn't work that way for me, seems like it took much longer but that was many years ago, maybe I
'm not remmebering it correctly.


----------



## Hockey (Apr 9, 2017)

Okay, I checked, and see that I have a piece of paper that says "PowerTwist V-Belt". I assume, but, could be innaccurate, that the paperwork is for the belt I have. It is red. The belt has had no issues that I am aware of. It looks like a very high quality belt.


----------

