# Homemade Band sawmill



## geekwoodworker (May 27, 2014)

*Building the frame*

I have been thinking of building a small band sawmill for about a year or more and finally decided to make one. I built a bandsaw from Mathias at woodgears and love it. So I decided to use the same design but modify it to cut horizontally. It will only be used for small logs 6 feet long and no bigger than 28 inches in diameter.
It needs to break down easily for transport to my dads and back. I like the lumber smith saw so I think I will make it similar. http://www.lumbersmith.com/

The frame is made from scrap 2×6 lumber. It has 5 layers glued with right wheel mount mortised in.









The wheel mounts are made from ash and maple. They are a split design with axle hole routered on each side. This way it is easier to get axle straight. Axles are then held in place with 1/4" lag bolts.

































The wheels are 13" and are three layers of 11mm ply glued together. If the bearings fail I plan on making new wheels with trailer bearings and hub with a stub axle.









The motor mount is made so I can easily remove it when I need to take it from one area to another. Or from my dad's place to mine.

















I managed to get it put together today to test the fit of the blade and the tracking. Everything works perfectly. Still no power but that will come in time. The blade is from R & D bandsaws and is called a ripper37 with 1.3 tpi. http://www.tufftooth.com/









Next is the gantry to allow me to raise and lower it.


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## luv2learn (Feb 4, 2012)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Building the frame*
> 
> I have been thinking of building a small band sawmill for about a year or more and finally decided to make one. I built a bandsaw from Mathias at woodgears and love it. So I decided to use the same design but modify it to cut horizontally. It will only be used for small logs 6 feet long and no bigger than 28 inches in diameter.
> It needs to break down easily for transport to my dads and back. I like the lumber smith saw so I think I will make it similar. http://www.lumbersmith.com/
> ...


Sean, you have beat me to the punch buddy. I have been wanting to build one of these for a couple of years. I built Matthias 16" band saw and contemplated building his portable mill. I like your approach. Have you decided on what to power your mill with yet?


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## geekwoodworker (May 27, 2014)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Building the frame*
> 
> I have been thinking of building a small band sawmill for about a year or more and finally decided to make one. I built a bandsaw from Mathias at woodgears and love it. So I decided to use the same design but modify it to cut horizontally. It will only be used for small logs 6 feet long and no bigger than 28 inches in diameter.
> It needs to break down easily for transport to my dads and back. I like the lumber smith saw so I think I will make it similar. http://www.lumbersmith.com/
> ...


Thanks Lee. I too built the 16" from Matthias and it works beautifully. I am powering this saw with a 2 hp table saw motor with 3450 rpm.
I sure hope it performs as well as I think. May need bigger motor but will see how this one works.


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## luv2learn (Feb 4, 2012)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Building the frame*
> 
> I have been thinking of building a small band sawmill for about a year or more and finally decided to make one. I built a bandsaw from Mathias at woodgears and love it. So I decided to use the same design but modify it to cut horizontally. It will only be used for small logs 6 feet long and no bigger than 28 inches in diameter.
> It needs to break down easily for transport to my dads and back. I like the lumber smith saw so I think I will make it similar. http://www.lumbersmith.com/
> ...


Sean, what are the diameters of the pulley on your motor and the pulley mounted to the back of your 13" wheel? It looks like about 4" and 6" respectively. If that is the case, and my calculations are right, your blade is moving at about 7828 S.F.M. (Surface feet per minute) or 2300 rpm. That might be a tad fast for a wood cutting blade, but please check out my math buddy.


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## geekwoodworker (May 27, 2014)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Building the frame*
> 
> I have been thinking of building a small band sawmill for about a year or more and finally decided to make one. I built a bandsaw from Mathias at woodgears and love it. So I decided to use the same design but modify it to cut horizontally. It will only be used for small logs 6 feet long and no bigger than 28 inches in diameter.
> It needs to break down easily for transport to my dads and back. I like the lumber smith saw so I think I will make it similar. http://www.lumbersmith.com/
> ...


Lee. The motor pully is 3" and wheel is 8" which calculates to 4400 fpm. I did quit a bit of research on the speed and there are many different opinions on this. I have been told that upright bandsaws should run under 2800 fpm but my homemade 16" runs at 3500 fpm and works better than my old one which ran at 2500 fpm. Sawmills run faster and I figure a small one should run between 4000 to 5500 fpm which is why I went with this configuration. If it turns out to be too slow then I will increase the motor pulley to 3.5" which will give me 5134 fpm. I am gonna have a water cooling system for the blade so this speed or faster should be fine.

thanks lee


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Building the frame*
> 
> I have been thinking of building a small band sawmill for about a year or more and finally decided to make one. I built a bandsaw from Mathias at woodgears and love it. So I decided to use the same design but modify it to cut horizontally. It will only be used for small logs 6 feet long and no bigger than 28 inches in diameter.
> It needs to break down easily for transport to my dads and back. I like the lumber smith saw so I think I will make it similar. http://www.lumbersmith.com/
> ...


Curious about how the water cooling will work with wood wheels over time. Looking forward to more updates!


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## geekwoodworker (May 27, 2014)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Building the frame*
> 
> I have been thinking of building a small band sawmill for about a year or more and finally decided to make one. I built a bandsaw from Mathias at woodgears and love it. So I decided to use the same design but modify it to cut horizontally. It will only be used for small logs 6 feet long and no bigger than 28 inches in diameter.
> It needs to break down easily for transport to my dads and back. I like the lumber smith saw so I think I will make it similar. http://www.lumbersmith.com/
> ...


Rick. I have sealed wheels and sawmill with 4 coats of varethane and used titebond III glue for entire sawmill. Hopefully the water won't affect it this way. The only thing not varethaned is the gantry lift as it slides wood on wood and needs some friction. But it is to the rear so shouldn't get wet.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Building the frame*
> 
> I have been thinking of building a small band sawmill for about a year or more and finally decided to make one. I built a bandsaw from Mathias at woodgears and love it. So I decided to use the same design but modify it to cut horizontally. It will only be used for small logs 6 feet long and no bigger than 28 inches in diameter.
> It needs to break down easily for transport to my dads and back. I like the lumber smith saw so I think I will make it similar. http://www.lumbersmith.com/
> ...


Don't know how I missed this . I usually get a notice. Got one on the third blog. I've watched Mathius' video on his milling. Building it in wood is a challenge. And most electric mills have big motors which are costly?

I'm looking forward to this challenge. Thanks for posting.


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## hoosier0311 (Nov 8, 2012)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Building the frame*
> 
> I have been thinking of building a small band sawmill for about a year or more and finally decided to make one. I built a bandsaw from Mathias at woodgears and love it. So I decided to use the same design but modify it to cut horizontally. It will only be used for small logs 6 feet long and no bigger than 28 inches in diameter.
> It needs to break down easily for transport to my dads and back. I like the lumber smith saw so I think I will make it similar. http://www.lumbersmith.com/
> ...


Very cool ! Imma be watching this to see how it goes, good luck with it. I would think about a gas motor though, gives some more portability? One can be had on the cheap from craigslist and such.


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## hoosier0311 (Nov 8, 2012)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Building the frame*
> 
> I have been thinking of building a small band sawmill for about a year or more and finally decided to make one. I built a bandsaw from Mathias at woodgears and love it. So I decided to use the same design but modify it to cut horizontally. It will only be used for small logs 6 feet long and no bigger than 28 inches in diameter.
> It needs to break down easily for transport to my dads and back. I like the lumber smith saw so I think I will make it similar. http://www.lumbersmith.com/
> ...


Very cool ! Imma be watching this to see how it goes, good luck with it. I would think about a gas motor though, gives some more portability? One can be had on the cheap from craigslist and such.


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## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Building the frame*
> 
> I have been thinking of building a small band sawmill for about a year or more and finally decided to make one. I built a bandsaw from Mathias at woodgears and love it. So I decided to use the same design but modify it to cut horizontally. It will only be used for small logs 6 feet long and no bigger than 28 inches in diameter.
> It needs to break down easily for transport to my dads and back. I like the lumber smith saw so I think I will make it similar. http://www.lumbersmith.com/
> ...


I bet if we gave you enough tme you could build a space shuttle… Impressive work there Geek….


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## Lazy_K (May 27, 2012)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Building the frame*
> 
> I have been thinking of building a small band sawmill for about a year or more and finally decided to make one. I built a bandsaw from Mathias at woodgears and love it. So I decided to use the same design but modify it to cut horizontally. It will only be used for small logs 6 feet long and no bigger than 28 inches in diameter.
> It needs to break down easily for transport to my dads and back. I like the lumber smith saw so I think I will make it similar. http://www.lumbersmith.com/
> ...


if the wood is green still you shouldn't need the water. nice job/build


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## davidwalker1036 (Oct 29, 2015)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Building the frame*
> 
> I have been thinking of building a small band sawmill for about a year or more and finally decided to make one. I built a bandsaw from Mathias at woodgears and love it. So I decided to use the same design but modify it to cut horizontally. It will only be used for small logs 6 feet long and no bigger than 28 inches in diameter.
> It needs to break down easily for transport to my dads and back. I like the lumber smith saw so I think I will make it similar. http://www.lumbersmith.com/
> ...


Very nice job. Do you have any pictures of the frame layers? I was most interested in the frame, about how the right wheel mount was mortised in.
Again fantastic job.


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## geekwoodworker (May 27, 2014)

*Gantry with height adjustment mechanism*

I managed to get the gantry with height adjustment made this weekend.









Made two L shaped legs and put 5" wheels on them. I used 1/4" lag bolts to hold the wheels on.









To make the guides/clamps I made a box that the gantry can slide up and down on. I used 1/4" bolts to hold it all together with the front peice being loose. It is loose so it can be used as a clamp to hold the unit rigid during use. Just turn the handle and it gets super tight. It is held to the gantry with 4" long 1/4" lag bolts.

















































The height adjuster uses 1" threaded rod with 8 turns per inch. This makes it quick and easy to adjust. It is also easy to remove for teardown by removing the 4 lags bolts on the top of the gantry and the adjuster nut just slides out.

I also got the power hooked up to it and had it running. It runs nice and smooth. Just need to make blade guides and guards.


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## ezek1el (Nov 7, 2011)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Gantry with height adjustment mechanism*
> 
> I managed to get the gantry with height adjustment made this weekend.
> 
> ...


Its coming along pretty good sean, nice work! Im gonna have to stop by and check it out sometime! Cheers


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## ezek1el (Nov 7, 2011)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Gantry with height adjustment mechanism*
> 
> I managed to get the gantry with height adjustment made this weekend.
> 
> ...


You will probably need to put cross pieces between your two legs at the bottom and the top to reinforce the legs. When the blade engages the log its gonna want to drag the whole gantry assembly on the side that the blade pulls.


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## geekwoodworker (May 27, 2014)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Gantry with height adjustment mechanism*
> 
> I managed to get the gantry with height adjustment made this weekend.
> 
> ...


I had it running and it is pretty smooth. I have thought about adding something across the top to add rigidity but then cranking it up and down wouldn't work well. To adjust height you crank one side and then the other and it leans when doing so and a brace would make that impossible. Once the guides are clamped tight it is pretty solid.

Thanks Dom.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Gantry with height adjustment mechanism*
> 
> I managed to get the gantry with height adjustment made this weekend.
> 
> ...


Coming along nicely. I'd like to see a short video of this working.


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## luv2learn (Feb 4, 2012)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Gantry with height adjustment mechanism*
> 
> I managed to get the gantry with height adjustment made this weekend.
> 
> ...


You have made great progress Sean. I agree with Roger, you need to do a short video of your mill in action. Would there be any advantage to tying the two lifting rods together at the top via a couple sprockets connected by a chain? Cranking one side or the other would then lift both sides together. That, however, would add another level of complexity to an already real cool, real simple design.


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## geekwoodworker (May 27, 2014)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Gantry with height adjustment mechanism*
> 
> I managed to get the gantry with height adjustment made this weekend.
> 
> ...


Roger- I am not very well setup to make video and post it as this is the extent of my capabilities. However I may in the future or at the end of this blog when it is completed.
Lee - at this point I am gonna leave it the way it is and see how it works. If all is good then I am happpy. If it needs stiffening then I will think of something at that time. I just hope it works the way it is cause I like it simple.

thanks


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## Chuckwag0n (Apr 5, 2017)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Gantry with height adjustment mechanism*
> 
> I managed to get the gantry with height adjustment made this weekend.
> 
> ...


What kind of wood did you use for the gantry? I'm confused because it looks like pine on the inside and hard wood on the outside.


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## geekwoodworker (May 27, 2014)

*Blade guides and guards*

Got the blade guides and guards completed this weekend. It took longer than I thought to make the bearing guides but they turne out good. I put them in slots that prevent the nut from turning so I can tighten them from one side only.













































The guards are very minimal. The reason being is if a blade breaks then it is just to stop it from flying out to the side and possibly hitting someone near by.


















Got the switch on. It is removeable for packaging and transport. I managed to cut a small black locust log up also. It cut fantastic with no vibration. I got seven 8" wide boards that were 1 1/4" thick.



















I also managed to make a crude Kant hook to move the logs around. It works well and is adjustable for larger or smaller logs.









Next thing to make will be the rail system and clamping for the saw and the logs.


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## luv2learn (Feb 4, 2012)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Blade guides and guards*
> 
> Got the blade guides and guards completed this weekend. It took longer than I thought to make the bearing guides but they turne out good. I put them in slots that prevent the nut from turning so I can tighten them from one side only.
> 
> ...


You have made great progress Sean. How fast were you able to feed the saw blade through the Black Locust log? Did you turn your wheel edges flat or did you put a slight dome on them?


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## kaerlighedsbamsen (Sep 16, 2013)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Blade guides and guards*
> 
> Got the blade guides and guards completed this weekend. It took longer than I thought to make the bearing guides but they turne out good. I put them in slots that prevent the nut from turning so I can tighten them from one side only.
> 
> ...


Awesome machine!
Like this simple design. Just a thought: in many office tables, of the kind that raise and lower, there are a toothed belt in the top that connects the motor and the pulleys. Would it be wort taking one of these apart in order to have only one handle to turn?

Looking forward to next part!


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Blade guides and guards*
> 
> Got the blade guides and guards completed this weekend. It took longer than I thought to make the bearing guides but they turne out good. I put them in slots that prevent the nut from turning so I can tighten them from one side only.
> 
> ...


Interesting project. Looks like a lot of good work done so far.


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## geekwoodworker (May 27, 2014)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Blade guides and guards*
> 
> Got the blade guides and guards completed this weekend. It took longer than I thought to make the bearing guides but they turne out good. I put them in slots that prevent the nut from turning so I can tighten them from one side only.
> 
> ...


Lee- the log was 54" long and each pass through took less than a minute. The wheels are dome shaped to keep the blade centered on them. Here is a pic of how I did it but this pic is from my 16" bandsaw build. This setup is on my router with bearings and shaft installed. Just tilt router 5 deg.









kaerlighedsbamsen - I thought about using only one handle with a chain. When the sawmill is raised all the way up the motor sits between them and would interfere with the chain and I would need to raise them up too high to be comfortable to reach and turn. It doesn't take long to turn with 8 turns per inch.

thanks for the comments.


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## ezek1el (Nov 7, 2011)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Blade guides and guards*
> 
> Got the blade guides and guards completed this weekend. It took longer than I thought to make the bearing guides but they turne out good. I put them in slots that prevent the nut from turning so I can tighten them from one side only.
> 
> ...


looking really good Sean!


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Blade guides and guards*
> 
> Got the blade guides and guards completed this weekend. It took longer than I thought to make the bearing guides but they turne out good. I put them in slots that prevent the nut from turning so I can tighten them from one side only.
> 
> ...


Some nice engineering going on there.


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## Chuckwag0n (Apr 5, 2017)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Blade guides and guards*
> 
> Got the blade guides and guards completed this weekend. It took longer than I thought to make the bearing guides but they turne out good. I put them in slots that prevent the nut from turning so I can tighten them from one side only.
> 
> ...


very nice work, well done


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## geekwoodworker (May 27, 2014)

*Gantry Rails and log bed*

The rails and log bed with log clamps are complete and after testing it by cutting another log I found some short comings with the clamps and my right blade guides.




























Here is the new blade guide for the right side and it works much better and is smaller than old one.










The log clamps had some serious short comings as I had the uprights too close to where the left blade guides travel and unfortunately were in the way of blade guide for which I had to put a block between them and the log to give enough room. They would also bend slightly back. So made some new ones with low profiles and high profiles. They all slide in a type of T-slot and work great. Some have screws sticking through to add grip on the log.














































The log clamp slides loosely on a 1/2 in threaded rod and uses friction to stay in place.




























Now I just need to add a push handle and the water coolling for the blade.


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## kaerlighedsbamsen (Sep 16, 2013)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Gantry Rails and log bed*
> 
> The rails and log bed with log clamps are complete and after testing it by cutting another log I found some short comings with the clamps and my right blade guides.
> 
> ...


Realy like this build. Keep it coming!


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## luv2learn (Feb 4, 2012)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Gantry Rails and log bed*
> 
> The rails and log bed with log clamps are complete and after testing it by cutting another log I found some short comings with the clamps and my right blade guides.
> 
> ...


This is coming along nicely Sean. Are you having any problems with saw dust collecting in the guide rails?


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## ezek1el (Nov 7, 2011)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Gantry Rails and log bed*
> 
> The rails and log bed with log clamps are complete and after testing it by cutting another log I found some short comings with the clamps and my right blade guides.
> 
> ...


Thats awesome Sean! Keep up the good work!! I cant wait to see it in person! Cheers buddy


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## hoosier0311 (Nov 8, 2012)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Gantry Rails and log bed*
> 
> The rails and log bed with log clamps are complete and after testing it by cutting another log I found some short comings with the clamps and my right blade guides.
> 
> ...


Man you are really going to town on this. It looks awesome! look forward to seeing some more on it. heck of a job on this.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Gantry Rails and log bed*
> 
> The rails and log bed with log clamps are complete and after testing it by cutting another log I found some short comings with the clamps and my right blade guides.
> 
> ...


Very impressive build! Wishing you the best with it.


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## geekwoodworker (May 27, 2014)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Gantry Rails and log bed*
> 
> The rails and log bed with log clamps are complete and after testing it by cutting another log I found some short comings with the clamps and my right blade guides.
> 
> ...


Thanks everyone.

Lee. Sawdust does get into the one rail but I just a take broom and sweep it out.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Gantry Rails and log bed*
> 
> The rails and log bed with log clamps are complete and after testing it by cutting another log I found some short comings with the clamps and my right blade guides.
> 
> ...


Slice em up some lumber now. Gr8 build


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## Chuckwag0n (Apr 5, 2017)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Gantry Rails and log bed*
> 
> The rails and log bed with log clamps are complete and after testing it by cutting another log I found some short comings with the clamps and my right blade guides.
> 
> ...


very well thought of, really like the clamping system. Simple yet very useful


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## geekwoodworker (May 27, 2014)

*Push handle and water cooling*

The sawmill is done and working great.

Adding the handle helped allot when pushing the saw through the log. The handle is removable by just pulling the handle up and removing the lag bolts holding the arms in. The handle is held on by through mortise. I added the switch to the handle also.




























The cooling is a shower bag from canadian tire. I added a valve to it. It is attached to the movable blade guide arm. It works well but I am finding that the saw works just fine without the water cooling. So I am no long using it.




























I had to add an adjuster to the left wheel axle mount as it kept moving slightly causing the wheel to become misaligned and the blade would then ride on the edge of the wheel instead of the center.










So here is a quick video of it. This is my first ever video so it isn't that good. Enjoy.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Push handle and water cooling*
> 
> The sawmill is done and working great.
> 
> ...


Sean,

Just checked out the video. Ya did good!
Know you have been working on this for awhile. What would you estimate as time?, money?, and material for this.

Thanks!


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Push handle and water cooling*
> 
> The sawmill is done and working great.
> 
> ...


I like the handle. Have you sent the video to Matthias?


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## hoosier0311 (Nov 8, 2012)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Push handle and water cooling*
> 
> The sawmill is done and working great.
> 
> ...


Awesome build, great to see it in action!


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## geekwoodworker (May 27, 2014)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Push handle and water cooling*
> 
> The sawmill is done and working great.
> 
> ...


thanks guys.

Doc. I haven't figured the cost or time yet but will soon and then I am gonna post it as a project with that and the specs.

Rick. Haven't sent it to Mathias yet but plan on it.

thanks again.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Push handle and water cooling*
> 
> The sawmill is done and working great.
> 
> ...


Great work on this Sean. I really like that you did it with wood. You don't have to worry about it getting rusty and it appeals to the wood guy in me.


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## luv2learn (Feb 4, 2012)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Push handle and water cooling*
> 
> The sawmill is done and working great.
> 
> ...


Very nicely done Sean. You thought out every aspect of the project and turned out a valuable tool. Thanks for sharing it with us. This is on top of my to do list for 2015.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Push handle and water cooling*
> 
> The sawmill is done and working great.
> 
> ...


Thanks,

I don't have the space in my shop(full of tools on wheels) to build it. Harbor frieght has a gas band saw mill which is the least expensive of the mills out there. I have a farm quality 1.5 hp motor, but Mathias, build seemed underpowered? Since you are a Geek, I'm looking forward to any critique you want to share as well.

You may have inspired a whole new era…LOL!


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## geekwoodworker (May 27, 2014)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Push handle and water cooling*
> 
> The sawmill is done and working great.
> 
> ...


Thanks guys.

Doc. I used a 2 hp motor from an old table saw and it has plenty of power as it runs on 220 v power. The weak spot is the belt as it tends to slip and squeal under stress. I need to make something to put a bit more tension on it and hold the tension. Mathias motor did seem under powered to me too. I also think it is important to use a proper band mill blade and not just any bandsaw blade.

Hope this helps and thanks again. I hope everyone likes the project too.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Push handle and water cooling*
> 
> The sawmill is done and working great.
> 
> ...


Sean,

Harbor freight sells the linked belt cheaper than anyone else. It improved my old craftsman belt drive table saw performance.

Another thought is double pulleys?


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Push handle and water cooling*
> 
> The sawmill is done and working great.
> 
> ...


One heck of a build.


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## Chuckwag0n (Apr 5, 2017)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Push handle and water cooling*
> 
> The sawmill is done and working great.
> 
> ...


nice!


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## geekwoodworker (May 27, 2014)

*Blade guide upgrade/modification*

After cutting about 13 logs I realized that my blade guides were the weak link in cutting straight boards as I kept getting blade drift when cutting through knots. So I decided to double the bearings to better support the blade. I also changed the bearing holder to a peice of aluminum. The aluminum is 8mm thick so it is nice and strong. I cut the aluminum with my table saw and put adjustment slots in them with my slot mortiser. I used an old router bit of course and slowed down the router to about 6000rpm.





































Now it works great and cuts through knots without blade drift.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Blade guide upgrade/modification*
> 
> After cutting about 13 logs I realized that my blade guides were the weak link in cutting straight boards as I kept getting blade drift when cutting through knots. So I decided to double the bearings to better support the blade. I also changed the bearing holder to a peice of aluminum. The aluminum is 8mm thick so it is nice and strong. I cut the aluminum with my table saw and put adjustment slots in them with my slot mortiser. I used an old router bit of course and slowed down the router to about 6000rpm.
> 
> ...


Nice solution.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Blade guide upgrade/modification*
> 
> After cutting about 13 logs I realized that my blade guides were the weak link in cutting straight boards as I kept getting blade drift when cutting through knots. So I decided to double the bearings to better support the blade. I also changed the bearing holder to a peice of aluminum. The aluminum is 8mm thick so it is nice and strong. I cut the aluminum with my table saw and put adjustment slots in them with my slot mortiser. I used an old router bit of course and slowed down the router to about 6000rpm.
> 
> ...


Sean,

Thanks for posting the problem and the fix. By the time I can get around to building one you will have all the kinks worked out and you will be an expert resource. LOL! Nice fix!


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Blade guide upgrade/modification*
> 
> After cutting about 13 logs I realized that my blade guides were the weak link in cutting straight boards as I kept getting blade drift when cutting through knots. So I decided to double the bearings to better support the blade. I also changed the bearing holder to a peice of aluminum. The aluminum is 8mm thick so it is nice and strong. I cut the aluminum with my table saw and put adjustment slots in them with my slot mortiser. I used an old router bit of course and slowed down the router to about 6000rpm.
> 
> ...


Mathias will be envious. LOL!


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## geekwoodworker (May 27, 2014)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Blade guide upgrade/modification*
> 
> After cutting about 13 logs I realized that my blade guides were the weak link in cutting straight boards as I kept getting blade drift when cutting through knots. So I decided to double the bearings to better support the blade. I also changed the bearing holder to a peice of aluminum. The aluminum is 8mm thick so it is nice and strong. I cut the aluminum with my table saw and put adjustment slots in them with my slot mortiser. I used an old router bit of course and slowed down the router to about 6000rpm.
> 
> ...


thanks guys. I now have about 400 bdft of lumber with more to come in the spring. The cost of the wood would have been much more than it cost to build the sawmill. And I have wood I couldn't buy at lumbermill.


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## Chuckwag0n (Apr 5, 2017)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Blade guide upgrade/modification*
> 
> After cutting about 13 logs I realized that my blade guides were the weak link in cutting straight boards as I kept getting blade drift when cutting through knots. So I decided to double the bearings to better support the blade. I also changed the bearing holder to a peice of aluminum. The aluminum is 8mm thick so it is nice and strong. I cut the aluminum with my table saw and put adjustment slots in them with my slot mortiser. I used an old router bit of course and slowed down the router to about 6000rpm.
> 
> ...


nice!


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## geekwoodworker (May 27, 2014)

*Updates and some improvements*

After using the sawmill for awhile I have found a few issues needing some slight improvements.

The v-belt would loosen up after some use and then the belt would squeal. I added a belt tensioner to the motor mount and now it only squeals when starting.










The bearings I used for the blade guides worked great except they would seize up after a while and changing them was a pain. I decided to try wooden guides using iron wood. I changed the bolt out to a threaded rod for easy changing of the guides for when they wear out. The guides have a slot in them for some adjusting. The first set lasted for 1000 bdft. The current set has 300 bdft and showing no signs of wear.



















I kept having to sweep out the rails after each pass and that was just a pain. So I decided to add some sweeps made from and old broken stable broom. So far I haven't had to do any sweeping.










The log holders were also a pain as I always had to use a wrench to tighten and loosen them. I wanted something I could just drop in and pull out quickly and came up with this. There are two tall, two medium and two short log stops. The other side of the log still uses the old ones in the T-slot.



















So far all is working great and I have cut approx. 3000 bdft with lots more to come. My dads bush has some large white ash that have the Emarld Ash Borer in them and the trees are dying so lots to cut.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Updates and some improvements*
> 
> After using the sawmill for awhile I have found a few issues needing some slight improvements.
> 
> ...


Looks like fun


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## luv2learn (Feb 4, 2012)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Updates and some improvements*
> 
> After using the sawmill for awhile I have found a few issues needing some slight improvements.
> 
> ...


Sean, maybe you told us what hp. motor you where using but I didn't remember what is was. I really need to build one of these. Thanks for paving the way.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Updates and some improvements*
> 
> After using the sawmill for awhile I have found a few issues needing some slight improvements.
> 
> ...


Great job on this Sean with lots of smart details including the fixes.


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## geekwoodworker (May 27, 2014)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Updates and some improvements*
> 
> After using the sawmill for awhile I have found a few issues needing some slight improvements.
> 
> ...


Thanks guys. 
Lee the motor is a 2 hp running at 3450 rpm and on 220V.


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## wilsonjack68 (Jul 24, 2017)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Updates and some improvements*
> 
> After using the sawmill for awhile I have found a few issues needing some slight improvements.
> 
> ...


Love the sawmill would love to buy the blueprints to build it.

[email protected]


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## NYLumberJock (Mar 4, 2020)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Updates and some improvements*
> 
> After using the sawmill for awhile I have found a few issues needing some slight improvements.
> 
> ...


Sean,
Thanks for this great build
Have you made the blueprints available for sale?


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## Alfred276 (Apr 18, 2021)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Updates and some improvements*
> 
> After using the sawmill for awhile I have found a few issues needing some slight improvements.
> 
> ...


It is a very nice job,do you have any foto of whole machine,I would like to build one.Thank you


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## Pedrito (May 25, 2021)

geekwoodworker said:


> *Updates and some improvements*
> 
> After using the sawmill for awhile I have found a few issues needing some slight improvements.
> 
> ...


Hi Geekwoodworker (don't know your name)!

Thanks for a very good blog of wooden band saw mill. I would like to build one here at my ranch in south Mexico (I am a Swede, not Mexican). I am thinking to do the parts in Tzalam and Che-Chen, really hard wood like stone.

Can you consider to give away any type of plans with measures and what/where the necessary parts needed? Greatful for every tip whatsoever. If possible can you reply to my email; [email protected]

BR/Per


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