# using pocket holes with maple



## Tooch (Apr 6, 2013)

So I was helping a student build a face frame for his gun cabinet, and we were pre-assembling the frame with picket hole screws with intent to glue on the whole thing at once. Much to our chagrin, the very first screw that we put in split the front face of the stock.

So my question is- was this a fluke? A one-time mistake that we should just chalk up to the trials and tribulations of woodworking? Or is this type of accident common when using pocket holes and maple due to the density of the wood?

Most of the stock I use is Oak (due to availability and low-cost), so anyone with experience using maple, please advise!


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## Nicky (Mar 13, 2007)

I got a lot of good advise here http://lumberjocks.com/topics/59088

I had more alignment issues then splitting. But pre-drilling a pilot hole, after you've drilled the pocket hole make for easy alignment so I would think it would help reduce splitting as well.


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## huff (May 28, 2009)

Tooch,

I've never had much splitting problem when using pocket screws with maple. I've used literally thousands of pocket screws over the years and have had very little problems. With that being said; I'm not saying I've never had a board split, but it usually happens to a piece that the grain is stressed and Maple seems to be one of those woods that it shows up in.

Usually doesn't show up until you do something like run a screw in it. I'd try again and hope it's just that one board.

Run your screws in slowly and if it happens again, try putting a little soap on the screw threads for lubrication.

Good luck.


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## woodchuckerNJ (Dec 4, 2013)

Fine threads or coarse threads?
With coarse threads yea.
With fine threads it's still possible.
Are you using kreg screws with a drill point (slit on the side)?
If they are fine and kreg, then you probably need to still a little pilot hole, and wax the screw to lube it.


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## hoosier0311 (Nov 8, 2012)

I try to remember to back off on the clutch setting on my drill. I split out a couple of pieces of Maple by forgetting to do so. My theory is once the head seats there is no good reason to crank anymore.


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## rustfever (May 3, 2009)

And Don't Forget To Wax the Threads Before Driving the Screw!!!!!


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

I don't wax or soap the screws, but I do use the fine thread screws.

You might also check the drilling depth of the jig. Maybe it was too deep, or even too shallow.

Good luck.
Mike


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

After pre-drilling the holes, this is where my Yankee screwdrivers come in handy. A clutched power driver can help, but only AFTER you find out the clutch is/was set to tight. With the Yankee you have that tactile feel helping you out from the beginning, thus you are less likely to over-power it and strip/split either the hole or the screw. IMO…


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

I have had it happen with maple more than oak. I use fine thread screws. Luckily for me I don't use much maple. Mostly oak or poplar in my shop.


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## hoss12992 (Mar 20, 2013)

As long as I use fine thread screws, never have a problem. If you use course thread, that can happen alot. Hope this helps buddy.


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## Tooch (Apr 6, 2013)

I know for a fact they are Kreg screws, and I'm almost positive they were fine thread… that's all I buy for my school stock for that very reason.

*Nicky *- I am trying out a pocket hole clamp for alignment (Rockler - $17 I think), I'll keep you posted on how well it works.

Thanks to everyone else with the soap on the thread idea and setting the clutch lower… I try those and let yinz know how it works.


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

I use both methods. I use my battery powered driver to put the screws 90% in. I then do the remaining 10% on all the screws by hand with a ratcheting screwdriver (I like my Klein). Never had one strip or split using this method, and it gives me confidence that they're all in just right.


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