# Antique restoration



## simmers (Nov 26, 2008)

I got laid off from my job 2 months ago, first time in my life. I am attempting to make my hobby of restoring antiques a job. Possible??? Any tips are appreciated.

I do not have an air compressor (except a pancake). I need to be able to spray! I can't afford the big compressor/HVLP conversion gun, etc., unless I find a used compressor. Is the Rockler HVLP spray "system" a good option at $139…..or the Earlex…....or not?

Thanks
Bob


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

I've heard good things about the small Earlex unit.

Also, keep in mind that you can buy a decent HVLP gun for $50 and use it with your small compressor. This would not be feasible for large jobs like a set of cabinets, but for piece work it is do-able.


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

I would buy a dedicated HVLP unit. The power is provided by what is essentially a shop vac motor providing warm dry air. An oil-free pancake compressor will never keep up with the volume of air you need and you will kill it in no time, not to mention that you should have a moisture separator in line with the hose. My HVLP is a Wagner I bought about over a decade ago for around $325, but they have become very affordable and the quality of the cheaper units looks no different than what I bought back then. I wouldn't hesitate to buy one.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

I have the low cost Earlex and it works great as long as your not trying to shoot something as thick as house paint.I've been spraying for 35 years and I was really surprised how well it worked. I think I saw a ad from highland woodworking supply showing a new Earlex model for around $139. I don't want to be contrary with dhazelton but unless your spraying a very small object most pancake compressors can not put out the volume needed to spray large pieces.
I also found that you can buy lacquer and shellac in rattle cans that work very well on small objects or repairs.


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## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

Harbor Freight has a sprayer for around $25.00. You can use your pancake compressor with the small unit. You have to wait sometimes for it to catch up. In your position, this is what I would do until I get some revenue going. It also gives you a throw away system to practice with and get used to spraying. I bought this a few years ago and still use it from time to time. I usually hand apply my finishes because I have more control and the fumes are a lot less.

Just a thought


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

I was not advocating the compressor/sprayer route. You will frustrate yourself to no end if you try to spray with an oil free pancake - they are made for filling basketballs and shooting a brad. THEY ARE NOT HIGH VOLUME NOR DO THEY HAVE HIGH DUTY CYCLES AND THEY CREATE MOISTURE. Why would you want to be in the middle of a panel and have to wait for the compressor or have it spit moisture out? Just buy the HVLP. If you plan on shooting any kind of casework and making your living by refinishing, then buy the right tool for your needs. You will kick yourself if you don't.


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## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

Don't get me wrong, not a long term solution - but - when you have lost your income, bills are due and you are trying to get something in - anything, it is an option. HF also has very cost effective compressors and armed with a couple of 20% off coupons, the bite on the pocket is greatly reduced.

I have been there and telling the better half that you want to spend a bunch of money is not going over easily. Then again, if I am doing something on old furniture and it is shellaq, i am doing french polish - no sprayer required.


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

Sprayers aside, I do have a suggestion about restoring antiques… 
After having done several pieces of restoration for clients…it got old real fast. I was dabbling in antiques, and people were impressed with my work, so it became rather easy to get restoration or refinish jobs. But.. the hassles of trying to satisfy customers who could never be satisfied made it clear why others in the trade were giving me their referrals…Long story. So.. I began buying those critter pieces of furniture at auctions, y'know the ones with damaged veneers, missing a drawer, or other fatal flaws…remanufactured missing or damaged items, spiffed them up, and freighted them off to the antique shows on Sundays. Anyone had an issue with what I was selling? I could either pump them into something else, or send them on their way, no harm no foul. Not so difficult when compared to having a client complain that your resto "isn't quite the same shade" or some other nonsense.
Buying relics, refurbishing them, and retailing them is infinitely preferable to the commission-based restorations. But yes, using your unemployment status to launch your biz is strategically a great idea. As long as the rent is paid, and the kids are well-fed and clothed, go for it!!


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## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

I fully agree with this. In my projects I detail the repair - only to be told that it was too shiny afterward. You can find stuff at the curb during trash days and get stuff for free that just needs to be glued and resell them.


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## canadianchips (Mar 12, 2010)

I agree. Re-furbishing is easier target crowd.Don't put to much CASH into your projects….people still want items for NOTHING !


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

I don't think any of us knows enough about the financial situation or Simmers skill level to recommend a business plan. There is a huge payback difference in picking up broken furniture and fixing it for resale at flea markets and making high end reproduction Chippendale chairs for museum display. If I were told my best plan of action was dumpster diving and reselling at flea markets I think I would quit before I ever got started.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

Unless you already know plenty about spray finishing, trying
to make money refinishing tired old furniture will be a
mistake.

1. It's labor intensive and easy to mess up.
2. It requires attention to cleanliness and detail.
3. You need space to hold the pieces while the finish cures.
4. You need to be set up to deliver the pieces, with finish intact and perfect, to the buyer.

An alternative I suggest is going after the shabby aesthetic favored
by young artist and professional types, where a beat-up finish
is an advantage and for whom the owning of repurposed old 
industrial furniture and stuff made from salvaged architectural
elements is a status badge of taste and ecology.


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## simmers (Nov 26, 2008)

I'm able to make it on unemployment and my wife's job. My skill level is intermediate. A retired antique restorer (made his living at it) is helping me with advice when I get stuck. So far I've done an ice chest, 2 oak pedestal tables, 3 kitchen chairs, a porch swing, a child's sled(1900), a child's desk and an old sewing cabinet. All needed repair. My repair skills are SLOW, and my finishing with a brush is SLOW. I charge what I think it should cost if I was as fast as I should be - I'm learning, and I'm trying to get business. I use KWIK paint & varnish remover to strip. I can do a good size piece in about 1 1/2 hours. If I get faster at the repair, and can spray I MAY be able to do this, but I AM applying for real day jobs. So far I've used WATCO danish oil. I have also used shellac. My shop is 24 X 24. My wife is very supportive of this venture, but health insurance is a killer! 
My target is heirlooms, pieces that have been passed down, possibly nearly discarded. People who have heirlooms don't gripe about every penny. They want it to look like it was when granny had it in her summer kitchen 50 years ago. 
All of the above is just a 'plan' for right now. I am open to all advice and really appreciate the responses. 
Bob


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

Hey Bob, what I don't like about spraying is that it seems to take me as long to clean up the gun as I've saved in finish time. It just feels that way, I'm sure it's not really…

If that's the kind of work you want to do I'd open up some dialogues with antique shops or home decorators, do a Craigslist ad in the collectible section. If a picker for antique shops knows he's got a go-to guy for repair he might buy things expressly to bring to you. A shop near me buys old wooden steamer trunks, cleans out the smell, cleans and varnishes them and they sell as fast as they come in. Hoosier cabinets do well, I've done a few of those that need drawer bottoms and repro hardware but the key is to get the units cheap. Big hand-made looking harvest tables and benches do well, also.

Start talking to people local to you to see what sells. Don't discount having a table at a craft fair or flea market for wooden crafts like spoons, bowls or birdhouses. I think the answer is there if you look around.


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## JAAune (Jan 22, 2012)

Furniture repair and restoration should be profitable if you're skilled enough to do it on a timely basis. There is plenty of that work out there and not enough people willing to do it (at least in my area).

Shellac is a great product to use for restoration work. It can help overcome fisheye and be used for toners or quick sealing tasks. It is also easily reversed with alcohol. I am fond of alternating between lacquer and shellac when I need to use toners, grain fillers and similar products because I can remove the shellac without harming the lacquer. You can also do a quick wipe with acetone to remove Famowood off fully cured shellac and not harm it.

Get really good at using dyes as stains and toners. Color match using layers of color instead of trying to find a perfect stain match. A sequence that works well for me is as follows:

1. Water-based dye stain
2. Oil stain
3. Light coat of lacquer
5. Spot repairs using Mixol pigments in shellac - dab a brush in shellac, dip in pigment and paint on the wood
6. Light spray of Deft over spot repairs (skip if no spot repairs are done)
7. Shellac toner (if needed)
8. Light coat of lacquer (skip if no toner is used)
9. Glaze (if needed)
10. Topcoat

Sometimes I do the toner step multiple times if the coloring process is complex. I'll do all of the above steps if needed but try to get the job done in less if possible.


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## simmers (Nov 26, 2008)

JAAune
Thanks very much. I'll keep that info.
Restoring antiques ona timely basis is the challenge. I'm trying to get into a routine and get more efficient. Having never been self employed before, it is pretty tough to change my work habits at 53. I need to accomplish this by the time my unemployment runs out.
Bob


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## LeeBarker (Aug 6, 2010)

Bob, have you considered a line of credit at your bank? It wouldn't have to have a large ceiling, but if you can show your banker that you're serious about this venture and that you need a tool now, the line of credit would be an answer.

If your clientele expects quality work, you'd best be doing it with quality tools.

And while I know this is a bit unfair, if any of us writing here walked into Bob's shop for the first time, carrying an heirloom piece that needs some TLC, and saw a substandard array of inadequate power tools, how would we feel about leaving the aforementioned heirloom there in his care?

Kindly,

Lee


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## simmers (Nov 26, 2008)

a1Jim
The Earlex sounds good at $139, but I can't find it for less than about $339.

Harbor Freight has an HVLP system for $119 - ????

Bob
***I just found the $134.00 Earlex at Amazon!


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Simmers
I looked and could not find it either ,I'm wondering if earlex is coming out with the new model and highland had it advertised before they were ready to release the new unit. Highland had a photo of it on the email I got from them and it looked more like the more expensive model but not exactly the same ,you could call them and see what the story is. Here's what my unit looks like it was only $99 a couple years ago
http://earlexspraystation.org/earlex-spray-station-2900/ I don't see where they sell this unit anymore .I could not find the HF unit but you always have 30 days to return their products if you wanted to give it a try.
I think the way JAJune approaches finishe repairs is excellent.


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

dhazleton said: I don't think any of us knows enough about the financial situation or Simmers skill level to recommend a business plan. 
Well, maybe not but my comments about the restoration of furniture as a business was based on his project posting, here: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/62052 *Nice restoration job, simmers!*


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## grandpaj (Jan 20, 2008)

I use double tank air and a Harbor freight HVLP gun works fantastic. I have 15.00 in sprayer and I paid 100.00 or so for 10 gallon compressor 7 yrs ago. I do some re-purposing of furniture and lots of spraying stains and will start shooting latex this spring on some re -purposed projects and my screen door business . There is a couple on my site you could look at


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## Jupiter (Feb 23, 2012)

Hi Bob,

I have had a furniture repair and antique restoration business for about 25 years. I'm a woodworker but the majority of my income is from restoration. I believe it's important to include stripping in your business. Most of my restoration works starts with stripping. I attended a furniture restoration workshop from the Minuteman Institute many years ago. They are not in business anymore but a similar outfit (TouchUp Depot) out of Houston, Tx. offers the same sort of workshop for people interested in the restoration business seriously. You might give them a call for suggestions.

Ron


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## simmers (Nov 26, 2008)

Ron,
Can you email me at [email protected]? I would like to get some info.

Yes, I have a tank that's about 8 inches deep, 5' X 4' - stainless steel, for stripping. I don't submerge, but I pour Kwik. I wear all the safety gear - powerful stuff. However, it evaporates quickly. Is there a better product that's as cheap?

Thanks
Bob


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## grandpaj (Jan 20, 2008)

I just posted a site for Earlex for 149.00


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## simmers (Nov 26, 2008)

I just saw the Earlex 1900 on line at Sears for 114. I am leaning towards the Earlex 5500 for $323 at Sears. I'm not sure what to spend at this point. The 5500 looks like a really nice system.
Bob


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Go for it, don't stop and trust your gut. You can do it.
I have a graco HVLP, spraystation 1900, that you can put to good use. PM me. 
I suspect you shall do well.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

You pretty much should be prepared to pick up and deliver furniture
to clients. Many people don't have a vehicle suitable.

You can specialize in finishing in your garage and outsource the
machine work and just use a few tools to execute structural
repairs. That sort of gets you partially off the hook as far
as crowding your shop with machinery and the dust it throws off.

If you have the space, the skill to finish and a vehicle to move
work, you may find calling interior designers is a good way to
get some jobs. Also furniture stores may need finishes repaired
of old stock updated to whatever finish is selling well.

I think finishing is a pain and focus on other things mostly,
but the truth is the finish sells the work to lots of clients and
customers. The geometry of a furniture piece can be outsourced,
but nicely faux-finished pieces of undistinguished style and 
quality crowd the homes of America's affluent families. People
do buy furniture based on what color it is and various
painted and tinted finishes may be used to both mask 
dull woodworking and boost the salability of work.

You may want to approach home stagers as well with some
sort of profit-sharing arrangement. If you can get the furniture
for virtually nothing (you can) refinish it to match today's
trends in shabby chic or whatever, then you may be
able to find a way to turn $10 dressers into $1200 showpieces
and sell them without storing them yourself.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

If your budget will allow It looks like it's got good reviews. It's a little less at amazan

http://www.amazon.com/Earlex-HV5500-Spray-Station/dp/B004RGOKR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1330216654&sr=8-1


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## Tennessee (Jul 8, 2011)

I did professional refinishing for 12 years, part-time at night and on Saturdays. Here's the truth about it:
-Find two or three (at most) finishes you are good at and become a pro at them.
-I used cheap Harbor Freight guns for years, and learned how to lay mirror varnish with them. Never shot lacquer, too quick, too easy to frost. Used varnish, and one oil rubbed finish.
-I always used Minwax stain since it was predictable and gave a nice pop to the grain.
-I did NOT paint. Let someone else have that headache.
-About one year in, I had a two month backlog, and after two years, it never got below three months.
-Stripping furniture I found a huge piece of sheetmetal that I put edges on, and pounded a dip in the middle, then drilled a hole for the stripper and lacquer wash to drip through. Mounted it on a frame made of cheap, #3 2X4s that formed a table. I recycled the lacquer until it evaporated. Never washed off a piece with water. Too much work to recapture the finish afterwards.
-Bought steel wool scrubber wheels they use on the bottom of floor buffers cause they were cheaper than steel balls.
-bought tools from either HF or the used refurbished Sears bins until I could afford brand names.
-when you go out for a quote, if there is an expensive car in the driveway, or the house is very expensive, jack up the price.
I made a TON of money, and never, ever picked off a garbage pile. I never had a dissatisfied customer unless I stepped out of my comfort zone of finishes. 
I did, however, gain access to multiple antique dealers back rooms, and picked up some great pieces that I resold when refinished. 
You can do this, just think cheap, dirty, and don't be afraid. It is the hardest of all woodworking, most labor intensive, but a lot of money out there.


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## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

Paul, that is sound advice


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## simmers (Nov 26, 2008)

Thanks for that good info Paul.
I have not bought a sprayer yet. So far I am pretty busy repairing chairs. I'm learning a lot. I am still seeking a 'regular' job, but no interviews yet. It's hard for me to stay focused and get into a routine. I have been looking for a used compressor, but no luck. So I guess I will get am HVLP spray system. Still not sure whether to get the Earlex or Rockler. It's tough to spend money right now.
Bob


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## crank49 (Apr 7, 2010)

I bought the cheap HVLP (blower type) from HF for $50 (normally around $100 I think). It looks just like the one sold by Rockler.

I signed up for the "Inside Track Club" at HF and get the best discount they have on anything I buy there. Costs $29 a year to be a member, but worth it if you buy from them a lot.


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## bruc101 (Sep 13, 2008)

I've got a good friend that use to restore antiques and is now retired. He is also a master woodworker and has a massive amount of experience in woodworking and could pretty much do anything put on his plate.

His shop was about as good as it could get for a woodworking business. He had an overflow system to strip off finishes with, several different lathes set up to do different things, etc..you get the picture.
For spray finishing he used a 5 gallon compressor he bought at sears and gravity feed cup guns.
He is also a master at finishing and refinishing and matching finishes.

He had very little walk-in work, most of it coming from antique dealers within a 100 mile radius of his shop repairing and restoring their antiques. He also had an understanding with anyone he worked for there is a difference in things now than a 100 years ago with wood and furniture. The walk-ins were usually the ones that wanted a master's work for very little amount of money.

Financially, he had some clients that would pay top dollar for his work, then he had some that always tried to barter him down and then would want to argue that he could have done a better job. He soon put the boot to them and out the door they went. As far as he was concerned that group was not welcome in his shop anymore.

He's told me several times…if my wife didn't have the job she has with insurance benefits for both of us and a decent retirement plan there is no way I could continue what I do.
A lot of jobs he had to give an upfront price and stick to it and when it took more hours than he had planed for on a job then he started losing money. One thing he would always say..you can't charge but so much for a job. You either get it or lose it and I've lost my share.

Good luck on your new venture, I certainly hope you succeed at it.


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## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

You never know where life is going to take you. I started as a maintenance man, to prpoerty manager, to energy management, to computer manufacturing, to large systems and now large storage systems.

Everything is a progression.


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## Windpants (Mar 14, 2012)

Here's an idea that could go along with restoration…....re-caning antique chair seats. I discovered that very few people do this. Plus, those people that do it may live thousands of miles away and shipping a set of valuable old chairs across the country is expensive. Often people who own antiques with worn out seats don't mind paying you for your time either. Last year I re-caned 10 antique chairs with dried cattail stalks, the way they did them hundreds of years ago. To learn, I researched books online and bought 3 books, including "Making Chair Seats" by Ruth Comstock, "The Craft of Chair Seat Weaving" by George Sterns and "Natural Rush Seats" from The H.H. Perkins Co. of North Haven, CT. The Perkins Co. is also where I got the dried cattail, because as you would discover that's an issue in itself. Anyway, people are willling to pay big $$$ for re-caned antique chair seats. See photo of one of the chairs.

http://i1154.photobucket.com/albums/p534/Windpants/5thchairseat.jpg


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