# Thicknessing guitar sides/backs without a drum sander



## Sirgreggins (Apr 12, 2012)

I have a few guitars that I'd like to star working on soon and am trying to figure out how to get my sides to thickness since I don't have a drum sander. Also, most of the sets that I have a highly figured hardwoods that just wouldn't do well through a planer. Ziricotre, curly maple, and koa just to name a few. I have taken a piece of mdf in the past and put it down on the planer bed so i could plane to less than 1/8" but that was on straight grained mahogany. Any thoughts on how i should get my sides to thickness?Generally the sides would be 2mm (.07-.08") and the backs around 2.5-3mm (.09-.11")


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## JustJoe (Oct 26, 2012)

How about a really good, really sharp handplane? Maybe something with a high bed angle to tackle crazy grain? 
If you've got a decent enough bandsaw blade and the resaw capability you can also slice them right off pretty close to finish size and just hit it with a scraper to remove any errant marks.


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## Sirgreggins (Apr 12, 2012)

if i use a hand plane, how should i hold the work piece? double sided tape to the bench?


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## JustJoe (Oct 26, 2012)

I can't picture how thin .07 actually is. If you can double-sided tape it to the bench (or to a flat piece of MDF and then clamp the mdf to the bench) without the thickness of the tape flexing it, then that would work. Or you can just use clamps or holdfasts on a couple of corners, smooth the rest, and then move the clamps/holdfasts to get to the rest of it.


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## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

A #12 scraper or scraper plane might be a better choice but is slower. tape, bench dogs - where there is a will, you will find a way.


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## Texcaster (Oct 26, 2013)

In the past I've used a #80 scraper, card scraper then hand sand for very cranky timbers. I've only made archtops, so I've only had to do sides. Where are you? Maybe one of the jocks can help out with a sander.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

The way I've thicknessed guitar plates with hand planes is
by using an MDF work boardwith a thin batten glued to the
end to act as a stop. The batten has to be no thicker
than your final thickness. Then tape it down or use clamps
and move them around as you work. I prefer the clamp
approach. In the greater scheme of making a guitar it's
only about an hour of minor aggravation.

Vacuum can also be used.


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## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

If you are going to sand, and the surfaces are shaped, I would create a few sanding blocks with the profiles that I needed. Yes, it takes longer but when working with instruments, slow it good.


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## Sirgreggins (Apr 12, 2012)

Thanks everyone. I will double sided tape it down and try with a handplane 1st. .07" is only just under 2mm thick so i'll have to figure out how to make a stop that is that thick. I'm nervous about planing the ziricote. That stuff is hard as hell, brittle, and the figure is off the charts. Keep the suggestions coming. I'm in MA btw


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

This luthier developed a sharpening system for working
figured woods.


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

hard as hell, brittle, and the figure is off the charts

That to me describes using a toothing plane, followed by a scraper. 2nd choice would be a high angled smoothing plane, but I would still be inclined to break up the grain with a toothing plane so that if tearout happens, it would at least be very limited.


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## Sirgreggins (Apr 12, 2012)

i'll look around fro a toothed blade as well


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## jmartel (Jul 6, 2012)

JustJoe, 0.07 is just over 1/16" thick.


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## Dal300 (Aug 4, 2011)

If you cannot find a toothed plane iron try using an old saw blade like a card scraper. It will cut the fibers nicely, then you can plane with a smooth plane iron.

I have a chunk of an old, cheap chinese made back saw that I made a card scraper out of. I did have gaffers tape around the toothed edges but when I was having trouble scraping an oak crotch I removed the tape and used the toothed side first.
After that it was easy to plane and scrape. No sanding was needed.


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## Sirgreggins (Apr 12, 2012)

If i use my #4 hand plane for this, can i simply hone a microbevel of say 50° on my current blade and then once done go back to my 25°? just curious.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

On a #4 you'd have to put a bevel on the back. A 10 degree
back bevel will cut at 55 degrees.

If you have a bevel-up plane, then what you are thinking will
work.


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## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

Before you do this to the blade, you may want to consider buying a new blade and sharpen the new one to your new specs. It is much easier to replace a blade then resharpen it.


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## Sirgreggins (Apr 12, 2012)

cool thanks. I guess i'll just buy a replacement blade and that way i can have one dedicated. Thanks for all the help guys. I hope to start this soon


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