# Tung Oil then Poly?



## FoamieOmie (Nov 20, 2008)

Hello!

This is my firs post and I appreciate the site and anyone who reads this and those who can help.

I am finishing a Hawaiian Koa snare drum and have about 9 coats of Formby's High Gloss Tung varnish on it using 0000 steel wool in between coats. It has a nice sheen to it but I want a little more shine. I have some MinWax Wipe On Poly and wonder the best steps to get this applied without it looking too plasticish (if you know what I mean). I really like the tung oil look when it is wet and after drying but after I use the 0000 wool it's not shiny enough for me. Don't want it too shiny but a little more than a wooled over tung oil look. I have used tung oil in the past but never poly, wipe on or not. Forgive me as I am no wood worker so any help would be highly appreciated!


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## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

I think a common solution would be to hit the tung oil finish with steel wool like you have been, and then apply some paste wax to it. That would bring the shine right back, without a plastic look. Try a test piece or see what others have to say on this.


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## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

Also, I used this on my project here:



It's obviously a different material, but maybe it would work as well.

On a side note, I'm hoping to get some Koa in the future for a medium size picture frame. Its soem expensive stuff though. Post some pics when you are done!


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## FoamieOmie (Nov 20, 2008)

Thanks for the reply! I have thought about the wax paste and I think you may be right. I have asked these questions on a drum building site and those guys have the same ideas, I'm just looking for other opinions. You should see some off the stuff these guys do with drums: http://www.ghostnote.net/vbforum/showthread.php?t=17447
That's just a taste, check out the site for more. I will send some pics of the shell as it is now soon. Thanks again!


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## hObOmOnk (Feb 6, 2007)

Formby's Tung Oil finish is actually a wiping varnish that is mostly solvent.
It contains little, if any, tung oil.

IT IS VARNISH.


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## FoamieOmie (Nov 20, 2008)

Yes I know.

"I am finishing a Hawaiian Koa snare drum and have about 9 coats of Formby's High Gloss Tung varnish"

I didn't know that at first but as I asked around I was informed a while ago.


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## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

The photo I could see without having an account was pretty sweet. Ussually I think of guitars when I see that stuff, but never thought much about drums. Thats really cool. I may need to sign up some day to get soem of thier advice on those finishes.


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

With the tung oil varnish that you are applying hitting with steel wool will knock down the sheen and change it from a gloss finish to more of a satin one. Wax is a good idea to bring back the sheen but wax does little to protect the surface of the wood. However with 9 coats of varnish on it already you should have plenty of protection for the wood surface.

Your idea of putting poly on will work also. Wiping poly is simply polyurethane finish diluted with a solvent, usually mineral spirits. It can be applied over the varnish simply by lightly scuff sanding the varnish before applying the poly. With reactive finishes, such as poly and varnish, you can build the finish but the successive coats bond with the previous coat through mechanical bonds achieved by roughing up the surface (scuff sanding) before applying.

Wipe on poly is a very forgiving topcoat. You simply apply it with a clean, lint free cotton cloth, paper shop towel, etc. It dries fast and is not as subject to runs as is straight poly. But you do have to apply multiple coats to "build" the finish. But, in this case, you already have a nice build on the topcoat. A single application of a high gloss wipe on poly should give you the sheen that you are looking for.

One note I would add is that irrespective of the number of successive coats that you apply to a project its sheen will be determined by the final coat that is applied. You can put on 9 coats of gloss varnish and one last coat of satin polyurethane and the project will have a satin finish appearance.

Hope this helps.


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## FoamieOmie (Nov 20, 2008)

Wow, that's some great info! Thanks for laying it all out like that. I want to protect the finish more than wax will but want what I think a wax finish will give me. I was wondering whether just a coat or 2 of the poly would do the trick.


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## hObOmOnk (Feb 6, 2007)

If you have a thick build of cured varnish, you can rub it out to a glossy finish by using successively finer grits of sandpaper, especially with wet sanding. Also, a final rub out with pumice, rottenstone or even auto-body rubbing compound can produce a nice gloss.

Research and test before you commit.


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## FoamieOmie (Nov 20, 2008)

So if I went with the wipe on poly and I only do one coat should I do a light run over with the 0000 wool? If I do more than one coat should I use the wool in between coats? I guess my question is is whether the final coat should be sanded (is that what you call it with wool too?) with the wool or not.


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## FoamieOmie (Nov 20, 2008)

Oh and from the drum builders site here's just a few favorites of the week:

http://www.ghostnote.net/vbforum/showthread.php?t=28058
http://www.ghostnote.net/vbforum/showthread.php?t=28006
http://www.ghostnote.net/vbforum/showthread.php?t=24111&highlight=cocobolo


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## Greg3G (Mar 20, 2007)

With the 9 coats of Tung Oil, you have built a pretty good base. You have a couple of options at this point. You could use the wipe on poly, if you don't want a high gloss, you can use a semi-gloss. It has a bit more shine than a satin finish.

I personally like a high gloss. After I have built a good finish base, I then wet sand up to 2000 grit. It doesn't take as long as you think. Most of the time I start with 400 or 600 grit, then 800, 1200, then 2000.

If you want a really high shine, use an automotive polish.

I have used this process on a number of dinning tables that I have refinished. It works really well.


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## FoamieOmie (Nov 20, 2008)

I have the satin finish Minwax. I figured it would be a closer fit to my final idea. I'm gonna send a pic here soon. Oh, and if you can't view those drum pics w/o registering ley me know. I will post them as pics instead of links.


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## juniorjock (Feb 3, 2008)

Moisture is not very friendly with any kind of drum.
-JJ


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## FoamieOmie (Nov 20, 2008)

OK, here is a current pic. Keep in mind a few things.

A) I work in a closet in my house. No shop so I hang it and work on it with a pvc pipe, a towel, tape and a string!

B) There is a light directly above it that is good for catching flaws but bad for judging the shine w/o taking it out of there. Also the flash makes it seem more shiny than it is BUT on the under side I can see my reflection some but the picture does it no justice.

I took it out into other lighting and the shine is just about right but I haven't gone over the last varnish coat with steel wool yet. Do I need to? If not this is looking pretty much like I want it so then I would need to find a good final coat. Hence my questions about poly or wax!

If I'm confusing anyone it's me, not you. I don't do this (wood work) very often but plan on doing a full drum kit at the very least real soon so any knowledge will be great!


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## FoamieOmie (Nov 20, 2008)

FYI I did did not make this drum (a koa segment) I am just finishing it. I sanded and oiled it. I was made by a co. called Rhythm King in Washington St.


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## FoamieOmie (Nov 20, 2008)

Hello again! I just wanted to share the completed drum. I ended up doing about 10 coats of high gloss formby's tung oil then 3 coats of minwax wax paste. Thanks for everyones help!

Todd


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## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

It looks like it came out great. Thanks for coming back to post follow up pictures. I know everyone here appreciates when people follow up after getting advice. Plus you get to show off your work. You did a great job and hopefully we'll see some more work in the future. It's really cool to see some different woodworking applications here.


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## vcooney (Jan 4, 2009)

Those are nice drums Todd, did the hardware come as a kit or did you buy them piece by piece.

Vince


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## juniorjock (Feb 3, 2008)

Great looking snare. Are you thinking about doing a set?
-JJ


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## FoamieOmie (Nov 20, 2008)

Thanks! The shell was made by a guy in WA state (shop is called Rhythm King - www.rhythmkingdrums.com) and the lugs (brass and chrome pieces) were hand made by a co. called =ego=. I ordered the rims and other parts from a custom drum supply companies. There is some really nice woodworking going on inthe custom drum world. Check out www.ghostnote.net and look for lnks there as well to some sudtom drum shops.

I do plan on building a kit. I want the best materials I can find so coming up with the money might take awhile. The parts for this snare cost $450, so…. You can get partys cheap if you like but you get what you pay for right?

Todd


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## juniorjock (Feb 3, 2008)

Does it sound as good as it looks? And, Was it worth it? I've been thinking about doing the same thing. I have a set of Ludwigs, but I've always wanted to actually build (or finish) a set.
-JJ


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