# Decked Out Ridgid Model R4511 Table Saw



## paulnwa

*Introduction and Background*

After moving into a different house with a very small shop, I had to leave behind my beloved *General Model 350* 3HP cabinet saw with Delta Unifence and 50 inch rails…....... :-(

However, after much research and positive reviews on LJ and other forums, I purchased a *Ridgid Model R4511 Hybrid Table Saw* in 2009…....  I was much impressed by this well engineered tool with so many features offered at such a favorable price, especially with the sale going on at Home Depot at the time.

After using the saw for about a year or so, it became apparent that some improvements could be made to better utilize the space in my shop and adapt the saw to my own personal preferences. Some of the modifications were intended to correct perceived design deficiencies; some were equipment upgrades; and some were just to suit my own personal preferences.

This multi-part blog will describe these modifications and some of the logic behind them. As many of you have this wonderful saw, you may find some of these modifications worthy of implementing in your own shop. I would like to thank all of the folks who have so freely shared their ideas and expertise on this forum. Some of the changes I made were inspired by ideas shared on the LJ forums and others.

The topics to be covered in this blog series include the following:


Redesigned Mobile Base
Improved Dust Collection
On-Board Storage
Upgraded Rip Fence
Rear Outfeed Table 
Downdraft Side Extension Table
Relocated Tilt Handwheel - Design Considerations
Relocated Tilt Handwheel - Finally Making It Happen
Tilt Indicator Redesign
Final Modifications
The Unveiling - Before and After

Please come along with me on this adventure. I think you will find it interesting, and even if you have a different model tablesaw, you might just find some ideas you can put to work in your own shop-and hopefully improve upon!


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## jaydubya

paulnwa said:


> *Introduction and Background*
> 
> After moving into a different house with a very small shop, I had to leave behind my beloved *General Model 350* 3HP cabinet saw with Delta Unifence and 50 inch rails…....... :-(
> 
> However, after much research and positive reviews on LJ and other forums, I purchased a *Ridgid Model R4511 Hybrid Table Saw* in 2009…....  I was much impressed by this well engineered tool with so many features offered at such a favorable price, especially with the sale going on at Home Depot at the time.
> 
> After using the saw for about a year or so, it became apparent that some improvements could be made to better utilize the space in my shop and adapt the saw to my own personal preferences. Some of the modifications were intended to correct perceived design deficiencies; some were equipment upgrades; and some were just to suit my own personal preferences.
> 
> This multi-part blog will describe these modifications and some of the logic behind them. As many of you have this wonderful saw, you may find some of these modifications worthy of implementing in your own shop. I would like to thank all of the folks who have so freely shared their ideas and expertise on this forum. Some of the changes I made were inspired by ideas shared on the LJ forums and others.
> 
> The topics to be covered in this blog series include the following:
> 
> 
> Redesigned Mobile Base
> Improved Dust Collection
> On-Board Storage
> Upgraded Rip Fence
> Rear Outfeed Table
> Downdraft Side Extension Table
> Relocated Tilt Handwheel - Design Considerations
> Relocated Tilt Handwheel - Finally Making It Happen
> Tilt Indicator Redesign
> Final Modifications
> The Unveiling - Before and After
> 
> Please come along with me on this adventure. I think you will find it interesting, and even if you have a different model tablesaw, you might just find some ideas you can put to work in your own shop-and hopefully improve upon!


Looking forward to seeing this. I really wish i could have found a 4511 when i was in the market. What are you doing for a rip fence? Im looking at making my own T-style fence


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## paulnwa

paulnwa said:


> *Introduction and Background*
> 
> After moving into a different house with a very small shop, I had to leave behind my beloved *General Model 350* 3HP cabinet saw with Delta Unifence and 50 inch rails…....... :-(
> 
> However, after much research and positive reviews on LJ and other forums, I purchased a *Ridgid Model R4511 Hybrid Table Saw* in 2009…....  I was much impressed by this well engineered tool with so many features offered at such a favorable price, especially with the sale going on at Home Depot at the time.
> 
> After using the saw for about a year or so, it became apparent that some improvements could be made to better utilize the space in my shop and adapt the saw to my own personal preferences. Some of the modifications were intended to correct perceived design deficiencies; some were equipment upgrades; and some were just to suit my own personal preferences.
> 
> This multi-part blog will describe these modifications and some of the logic behind them. As many of you have this wonderful saw, you may find some of these modifications worthy of implementing in your own shop. I would like to thank all of the folks who have so freely shared their ideas and expertise on this forum. Some of the changes I made were inspired by ideas shared on the LJ forums and others.
> 
> The topics to be covered in this blog series include the following:
> 
> 
> Redesigned Mobile Base
> Improved Dust Collection
> On-Board Storage
> Upgraded Rip Fence
> Rear Outfeed Table
> Downdraft Side Extension Table
> Relocated Tilt Handwheel - Design Considerations
> Relocated Tilt Handwheel - Finally Making It Happen
> Tilt Indicator Redesign
> Final Modifications
> The Unveiling - Before and After
> 
> Please come along with me on this adventure. I think you will find it interesting, and even if you have a different model tablesaw, you might just find some ideas you can put to work in your own shop-and hopefully improve upon!


Hi jaydubya,

Since you missed the R4511, what saw did you buy?

I changed over to a Delta Unifence, which will be discussed in a later section of this blog.

A lot of folks seem to be happy with the Delta T-2 fence. I have seen some shop made fences on some of the forums that used purchased extrusions-very nice, but I suspect very expensive.


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## jaydubya

paulnwa said:


> *Introduction and Background*
> 
> After moving into a different house with a very small shop, I had to leave behind my beloved *General Model 350* 3HP cabinet saw with Delta Unifence and 50 inch rails…....... :-(
> 
> However, after much research and positive reviews on LJ and other forums, I purchased a *Ridgid Model R4511 Hybrid Table Saw* in 2009…....  I was much impressed by this well engineered tool with so many features offered at such a favorable price, especially with the sale going on at Home Depot at the time.
> 
> After using the saw for about a year or so, it became apparent that some improvements could be made to better utilize the space in my shop and adapt the saw to my own personal preferences. Some of the modifications were intended to correct perceived design deficiencies; some were equipment upgrades; and some were just to suit my own personal preferences.
> 
> This multi-part blog will describe these modifications and some of the logic behind them. As many of you have this wonderful saw, you may find some of these modifications worthy of implementing in your own shop. I would like to thank all of the folks who have so freely shared their ideas and expertise on this forum. Some of the changes I made were inspired by ideas shared on the LJ forums and others.
> 
> The topics to be covered in this blog series include the following:
> 
> 
> Redesigned Mobile Base
> Improved Dust Collection
> On-Board Storage
> Upgraded Rip Fence
> Rear Outfeed Table
> Downdraft Side Extension Table
> Relocated Tilt Handwheel - Design Considerations
> Relocated Tilt Handwheel - Finally Making It Happen
> Tilt Indicator Redesign
> Final Modifications
> The Unveiling - Before and After
> 
> Please come along with me on this adventure. I think you will find it interesting, and even if you have a different model tablesaw, you might just find some ideas you can put to work in your own shop-and hopefully improve upon!


I went with a craftsman 21833. The unifence is an interesting choice. Did you already have one? I intend to build my own t-square fence using this http://techtalk.parts-express.com/showthread.php?p=1588940 as my basis with a few mods of my own. Ive seen the T-2 fence assembled and it just doesnt seem beefy enough for me. I have a problem with overdoing things


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## paulnwa

paulnwa said:


> *Introduction and Background*
> 
> After moving into a different house with a very small shop, I had to leave behind my beloved *General Model 350* 3HP cabinet saw with Delta Unifence and 50 inch rails…....... :-(
> 
> However, after much research and positive reviews on LJ and other forums, I purchased a *Ridgid Model R4511 Hybrid Table Saw* in 2009…....  I was much impressed by this well engineered tool with so many features offered at such a favorable price, especially with the sale going on at Home Depot at the time.
> 
> After using the saw for about a year or so, it became apparent that some improvements could be made to better utilize the space in my shop and adapt the saw to my own personal preferences. Some of the modifications were intended to correct perceived design deficiencies; some were equipment upgrades; and some were just to suit my own personal preferences.
> 
> This multi-part blog will describe these modifications and some of the logic behind them. As many of you have this wonderful saw, you may find some of these modifications worthy of implementing in your own shop. I would like to thank all of the folks who have so freely shared their ideas and expertise on this forum. Some of the changes I made were inspired by ideas shared on the LJ forums and others.
> 
> The topics to be covered in this blog series include the following:
> 
> 
> Redesigned Mobile Base
> Improved Dust Collection
> On-Board Storage
> Upgraded Rip Fence
> Rear Outfeed Table
> Downdraft Side Extension Table
> Relocated Tilt Handwheel - Design Considerations
> Relocated Tilt Handwheel - Finally Making It Happen
> Tilt Indicator Redesign
> Final Modifications
> The Unveiling - Before and After
> 
> Please come along with me on this adventure. I think you will find it interesting, and even if you have a different model tablesaw, you might just find some ideas you can put to work in your own shop-and hopefully improve upon!


Your saw looks a lot like the Ridgid R4512, if I recall correctly. Looks like a good choice-a lot of folks seem to like the R4512.

I had a Unifence on my old General 350, which I just loved. After using one for about 20 yrs., I found it hard to change. I did have to buy the 30" Unifence I used for this project. I will be discussing it in a later part of this blog.

There's no doubt that the Biesemeyer type design is one of the most sturdy fences I have ever seen. And I think they are probably the most commonly found design among serious woodworkers. This design you are considering looks very similar, but I think it is even a heavier build. I didn't read the whole post you referenced, but it sure looks like it would do the job for you. No question that it is a lot more sturdily built than the Unifence, which would make it ideal for cutting large sheet goods. I hope you will post your project here so we can see what you come up with.


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## jaydubya

paulnwa said:


> *Introduction and Background*
> 
> After moving into a different house with a very small shop, I had to leave behind my beloved *General Model 350* 3HP cabinet saw with Delta Unifence and 50 inch rails…....... :-(
> 
> However, after much research and positive reviews on LJ and other forums, I purchased a *Ridgid Model R4511 Hybrid Table Saw* in 2009…....  I was much impressed by this well engineered tool with so many features offered at such a favorable price, especially with the sale going on at Home Depot at the time.
> 
> After using the saw for about a year or so, it became apparent that some improvements could be made to better utilize the space in my shop and adapt the saw to my own personal preferences. Some of the modifications were intended to correct perceived design deficiencies; some were equipment upgrades; and some were just to suit my own personal preferences.
> 
> This multi-part blog will describe these modifications and some of the logic behind them. As many of you have this wonderful saw, you may find some of these modifications worthy of implementing in your own shop. I would like to thank all of the folks who have so freely shared their ideas and expertise on this forum. Some of the changes I made were inspired by ideas shared on the LJ forums and others.
> 
> The topics to be covered in this blog series include the following:
> 
> 
> Redesigned Mobile Base
> Improved Dust Collection
> On-Board Storage
> Upgraded Rip Fence
> Rear Outfeed Table
> Downdraft Side Extension Table
> Relocated Tilt Handwheel - Design Considerations
> Relocated Tilt Handwheel - Finally Making It Happen
> Tilt Indicator Redesign
> Final Modifications
> The Unveiling - Before and After
> 
> Please come along with me on this adventure. I think you will find it interesting, and even if you have a different model tablesaw, you might just find some ideas you can put to work in your own shop-and hopefully improve upon!


My saw is basically identical to the ridgid 4512. I will defiinitely post it here for all to see. I think I can come in under 125 dollars for my fence, which will hopefully be functionally equivalent to something 3 times the price


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## jlborger

paulnwa said:


> *Introduction and Background*
> 
> After moving into a different house with a very small shop, I had to leave behind my beloved *General Model 350* 3HP cabinet saw with Delta Unifence and 50 inch rails…....... :-(
> 
> However, after much research and positive reviews on LJ and other forums, I purchased a *Ridgid Model R4511 Hybrid Table Saw* in 2009…....  I was much impressed by this well engineered tool with so many features offered at such a favorable price, especially with the sale going on at Home Depot at the time.
> 
> After using the saw for about a year or so, it became apparent that some improvements could be made to better utilize the space in my shop and adapt the saw to my own personal preferences. Some of the modifications were intended to correct perceived design deficiencies; some were equipment upgrades; and some were just to suit my own personal preferences.
> 
> This multi-part blog will describe these modifications and some of the logic behind them. As many of you have this wonderful saw, you may find some of these modifications worthy of implementing in your own shop. I would like to thank all of the folks who have so freely shared their ideas and expertise on this forum. Some of the changes I made were inspired by ideas shared on the LJ forums and others.
> 
> The topics to be covered in this blog series include the following:
> 
> 
> Redesigned Mobile Base
> Improved Dust Collection
> On-Board Storage
> Upgraded Rip Fence
> Rear Outfeed Table
> Downdraft Side Extension Table
> Relocated Tilt Handwheel - Design Considerations
> Relocated Tilt Handwheel - Finally Making It Happen
> Tilt Indicator Redesign
> Final Modifications
> The Unveiling - Before and After
> 
> Please come along with me on this adventure. I think you will find it interesting, and even if you have a different model tablesaw, you might just find some ideas you can put to work in your own shop-and hopefully improve upon!


Paul,

Could you possibly share with me any designs / plans you created for your mods? I've had my R4511 for over 6 years and while I'm happy with it, I know there is room for improvement. And all of the improvements you've made to yours really seem to cover what I'd like to do to mine. I'm hoping to tackle some of these things this summer. My email address is (my lumber jocks username)@gmail.com.

Thanks,
jlborger


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## paulnwa

*Redesigned Mobile Base*

The Herculift mobile base supplied with the saw worked well, but it wasted a lot of space under the cabinet:










In addition, the heavy (~200#) granite top and cast iron mechanism made the saw feel top heavy and somewhat unstable when moving it, due to the small caster footprint. As others have done, my solution to this condition was to redesign the mobile base with a wider caster footprint:










The wider footprint distributed the weight much more evenly and made the saw feel very stable.

The improved mobile base is a 3/4" plywood box, sized to fit the saw cabinet base, with 10" outrigger panels on each side for mounting 3" diameter double locking casters. The double locking casters were sufficient to prevent movement of the saw in use. Much of the time, locking them was not necessary. Provisions were also made for a full length drawer in the cabinet.










The outrigger panels were supported by integral gussets in the front and back panels and an additional gusset at each caster location. Dust covers were added to improve appearance and eliminate debris accumulation.










The mobile base was also designed to accept modular storage cabinets on both sides.










In case you are wondering, the mobile base and other parts were painted with *Rustoleum Hammered Paint, No. 7218, Dark Bronze.
*
Many folks have commented that the paint makes the wood look like metal!

An integral dust collection duct was also incorporated into the top of the mobile base. Other dust collection features will be discussed in a following section.










Please stay with me, there's much more to come…...........


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## jaydubya

paulnwa said:


> *Redesigned Mobile Base*
> 
> The Herculift mobile base supplied with the saw worked well, but it wasted a lot of space under the cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In addition, the heavy (~200#) granite top and cast iron mechanism made the saw feel top heavy and somewhat unstable when moving it, due to the small caster footprint. As others have done, my solution to this condition was to redesign the mobile base with a wider caster footprint:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wider footprint distributed the weight much more evenly and made the saw feel very stable.
> 
> The improved mobile base is a 3/4" plywood box, sized to fit the saw cabinet base, with 10" outrigger panels on each side for mounting 3" diameter double locking casters. The double locking casters were sufficient to prevent movement of the saw in use. Much of the time, locking them was not necessary. Provisions were also made for a full length drawer in the cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The outrigger panels were supported by integral gussets in the front and back panels and an additional gusset at each caster location. Dust covers were added to improve appearance and eliminate debris accumulation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The mobile base was also designed to accept modular storage cabinets on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you are wondering, the mobile base and other parts were painted with *Rustoleum Hammered Paint, No. 7218, Dark Bronze.
> *
> Many folks have commented that the paint makes the wood look like metal!
> 
> An integral dust collection duct was also incorporated into the top of the mobile base. Other dust collection features will be discussed in a following section.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please stay with me, there's much more to come…...........


Great design. I cant wait to see it with the saw mounted


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## MWorker

paulnwa said:


> *Redesigned Mobile Base*
> 
> The Herculift mobile base supplied with the saw worked well, but it wasted a lot of space under the cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In addition, the heavy (~200#) granite top and cast iron mechanism made the saw feel top heavy and somewhat unstable when moving it, due to the small caster footprint. As others have done, my solution to this condition was to redesign the mobile base with a wider caster footprint:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wider footprint distributed the weight much more evenly and made the saw feel very stable.
> 
> The improved mobile base is a 3/4" plywood box, sized to fit the saw cabinet base, with 10" outrigger panels on each side for mounting 3" diameter double locking casters. The double locking casters were sufficient to prevent movement of the saw in use. Much of the time, locking them was not necessary. Provisions were also made for a full length drawer in the cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The outrigger panels were supported by integral gussets in the front and back panels and an additional gusset at each caster location. Dust covers were added to improve appearance and eliminate debris accumulation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The mobile base was also designed to accept modular storage cabinets on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you are wondering, the mobile base and other parts were painted with *Rustoleum Hammered Paint, No. 7218, Dark Bronze.
> *
> Many folks have commented that the paint makes the wood look like metal!
> 
> An integral dust collection duct was also incorporated into the top of the mobile base. Other dust collection features will be discussed in a following section.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please stay with me, there's much more to come…...........


Paul, I am trying to build a mobile base for my r4511, can you give me the approximate measurements of the front and back pieces? By the way, great job on this, my Herculift has been problematic and is difficult for me to adjust as it is hard to work on the concrete floor.


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## paulnwa

paulnwa said:


> *Redesigned Mobile Base*
> 
> The Herculift mobile base supplied with the saw worked well, but it wasted a lot of space under the cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In addition, the heavy (~200#) granite top and cast iron mechanism made the saw feel top heavy and somewhat unstable when moving it, due to the small caster footprint. As others have done, my solution to this condition was to redesign the mobile base with a wider caster footprint:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wider footprint distributed the weight much more evenly and made the saw feel very stable.
> 
> The improved mobile base is a 3/4" plywood box, sized to fit the saw cabinet base, with 10" outrigger panels on each side for mounting 3" diameter double locking casters. The double locking casters were sufficient to prevent movement of the saw in use. Much of the time, locking them was not necessary. Provisions were also made for a full length drawer in the cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The outrigger panels were supported by integral gussets in the front and back panels and an additional gusset at each caster location. Dust covers were added to improve appearance and eliminate debris accumulation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The mobile base was also designed to accept modular storage cabinets on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you are wondering, the mobile base and other parts were painted with *Rustoleum Hammered Paint, No. 7218, Dark Bronze.
> *
> Many folks have commented that the paint makes the wood look like metal!
> 
> An integral dust collection duct was also incorporated into the top of the mobile base. Other dust collection features will be discussed in a following section.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please stay with me, there's much more to come…...........


Hi Mike,

Check your personal messages on this site. I sent you some information.


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## DavidMcCarty

paulnwa said:


> *Redesigned Mobile Base*
> 
> The Herculift mobile base supplied with the saw worked well, but it wasted a lot of space under the cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In addition, the heavy (~200#) granite top and cast iron mechanism made the saw feel top heavy and somewhat unstable when moving it, due to the small caster footprint. As others have done, my solution to this condition was to redesign the mobile base with a wider caster footprint:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wider footprint distributed the weight much more evenly and made the saw feel very stable.
> 
> The improved mobile base is a 3/4" plywood box, sized to fit the saw cabinet base, with 10" outrigger panels on each side for mounting 3" diameter double locking casters. The double locking casters were sufficient to prevent movement of the saw in use. Much of the time, locking them was not necessary. Provisions were also made for a full length drawer in the cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The outrigger panels were supported by integral gussets in the front and back panels and an additional gusset at each caster location. Dust covers were added to improve appearance and eliminate debris accumulation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The mobile base was also designed to accept modular storage cabinets on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you are wondering, the mobile base and other parts were painted with *Rustoleum Hammered Paint, No. 7218, Dark Bronze.
> *
> Many folks have commented that the paint makes the wood look like metal!
> 
> An integral dust collection duct was also incorporated into the top of the mobile base. Other dust collection features will be discussed in a following section.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please stay with me, there's much more to come…...........


Paul
I love what you did to the saw!! I bought one of these saws as soon as they come out and have loved it but the base has give me problems ever since i got it! I have a small garage that I use for everything so I'm moving stuff around all the time. I have a concrete floor which is uneven bad so every time i move the saw it gets out of square a little cause it drags bad.. Could you give me some measurements on the base and also the dust shoot please.


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## paulnwa

paulnwa said:


> *Redesigned Mobile Base*
> 
> The Herculift mobile base supplied with the saw worked well, but it wasted a lot of space under the cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In addition, the heavy (~200#) granite top and cast iron mechanism made the saw feel top heavy and somewhat unstable when moving it, due to the small caster footprint. As others have done, my solution to this condition was to redesign the mobile base with a wider caster footprint:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wider footprint distributed the weight much more evenly and made the saw feel very stable.
> 
> The improved mobile base is a 3/4" plywood box, sized to fit the saw cabinet base, with 10" outrigger panels on each side for mounting 3" diameter double locking casters. The double locking casters were sufficient to prevent movement of the saw in use. Much of the time, locking them was not necessary. Provisions were also made for a full length drawer in the cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The outrigger panels were supported by integral gussets in the front and back panels and an additional gusset at each caster location. Dust covers were added to improve appearance and eliminate debris accumulation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The mobile base was also designed to accept modular storage cabinets on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you are wondering, the mobile base and other parts were painted with *Rustoleum Hammered Paint, No. 7218, Dark Bronze.
> *
> Many folks have commented that the paint makes the wood look like metal!
> 
> An integral dust collection duct was also incorporated into the top of the mobile base. Other dust collection features will be discussed in a following section.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please stay with me, there's much more to come…...........


Hi David,

Please check your personal messages on this site. I sent you some information.


----------



## kornhill

paulnwa said:


> *Redesigned Mobile Base*
> 
> The Herculift mobile base supplied with the saw worked well, but it wasted a lot of space under the cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In addition, the heavy (~200#) granite top and cast iron mechanism made the saw feel top heavy and somewhat unstable when moving it, due to the small caster footprint. As others have done, my solution to this condition was to redesign the mobile base with a wider caster footprint:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wider footprint distributed the weight much more evenly and made the saw feel very stable.
> 
> The improved mobile base is a 3/4" plywood box, sized to fit the saw cabinet base, with 10" outrigger panels on each side for mounting 3" diameter double locking casters. The double locking casters were sufficient to prevent movement of the saw in use. Much of the time, locking them was not necessary. Provisions were also made for a full length drawer in the cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The outrigger panels were supported by integral gussets in the front and back panels and an additional gusset at each caster location. Dust covers were added to improve appearance and eliminate debris accumulation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The mobile base was also designed to accept modular storage cabinets on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you are wondering, the mobile base and other parts were painted with *Rustoleum Hammered Paint, No. 7218, Dark Bronze.
> *
> Many folks have commented that the paint makes the wood look like metal!
> 
> An integral dust collection duct was also incorporated into the top of the mobile base. Other dust collection features will be discussed in a following section.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please stay with me, there's much more to come…...........


Paul,

Just bought a used Ridgid 4511. Would like to make a similar base as per your post. Do you mind to send out the material list of this mobile based again to me please??

Many Many thanks!!
Willy


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## paulnwa

paulnwa said:


> *Redesigned Mobile Base*
> 
> The Herculift mobile base supplied with the saw worked well, but it wasted a lot of space under the cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In addition, the heavy (~200#) granite top and cast iron mechanism made the saw feel top heavy and somewhat unstable when moving it, due to the small caster footprint. As others have done, my solution to this condition was to redesign the mobile base with a wider caster footprint:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wider footprint distributed the weight much more evenly and made the saw feel very stable.
> 
> The improved mobile base is a 3/4" plywood box, sized to fit the saw cabinet base, with 10" outrigger panels on each side for mounting 3" diameter double locking casters. The double locking casters were sufficient to prevent movement of the saw in use. Much of the time, locking them was not necessary. Provisions were also made for a full length drawer in the cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The outrigger panels were supported by integral gussets in the front and back panels and an additional gusset at each caster location. Dust covers were added to improve appearance and eliminate debris accumulation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The mobile base was also designed to accept modular storage cabinets on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you are wondering, the mobile base and other parts were painted with *Rustoleum Hammered Paint, No. 7218, Dark Bronze.
> *
> Many folks have commented that the paint makes the wood look like metal!
> 
> An integral dust collection duct was also incorporated into the top of the mobile base. Other dust collection features will be discussed in a following section.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please stay with me, there's much more to come…...........


Hi Willy,

I am unable to attach the drawings to this message. However, if you send me a personal message with your personal email address, I will send them to you in a .pdf format.

I would recommend using 5 inch double locking casters instead of the 3 inch ones I used-it will make it easier to roll around on your uneven floor.
With the 3 inch casters, my table top is about 37 inches from the floor-increasing the caster size will raise the top another inch. If that is a problem, alter the height of the base to compensate. Also, check that the 5 inch casters will swivel 360º without interfering with the cabinet.
I don't really have any design information about the dust chute-the opening in the back is dimensioned to fit a sheet metal right angle duct fitting. See the photos in the dust collection section of the blog.

Best regards,


----------



## kornhill

paulnwa said:


> *Redesigned Mobile Base*
> 
> The Herculift mobile base supplied with the saw worked well, but it wasted a lot of space under the cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In addition, the heavy (~200#) granite top and cast iron mechanism made the saw feel top heavy and somewhat unstable when moving it, due to the small caster footprint. As others have done, my solution to this condition was to redesign the mobile base with a wider caster footprint:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wider footprint distributed the weight much more evenly and made the saw feel very stable.
> 
> The improved mobile base is a 3/4" plywood box, sized to fit the saw cabinet base, with 10" outrigger panels on each side for mounting 3" diameter double locking casters. The double locking casters were sufficient to prevent movement of the saw in use. Much of the time, locking them was not necessary. Provisions were also made for a full length drawer in the cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The outrigger panels were supported by integral gussets in the front and back panels and an additional gusset at each caster location. Dust covers were added to improve appearance and eliminate debris accumulation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The mobile base was also designed to accept modular storage cabinets on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you are wondering, the mobile base and other parts were painted with *Rustoleum Hammered Paint, No. 7218, Dark Bronze.
> *
> Many folks have commented that the paint makes the wood look like metal!
> 
> An integral dust collection duct was also incorporated into the top of the mobile base. Other dust collection features will be discussed in a following section.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please stay with me, there's much more to come…...........


Hi Paul,

Somehow I am not allow to send u a personal message yet?? New to this forum maybe but here is my email [email protected]

Look forward to receive your pdf. Many Thanks!!


----------



## weezyfiggs

paulnwa said:


> *Redesigned Mobile Base*
> 
> The Herculift mobile base supplied with the saw worked well, but it wasted a lot of space under the cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In addition, the heavy (~200#) granite top and cast iron mechanism made the saw feel top heavy and somewhat unstable when moving it, due to the small caster footprint. As others have done, my solution to this condition was to redesign the mobile base with a wider caster footprint:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wider footprint distributed the weight much more evenly and made the saw feel very stable.
> 
> The improved mobile base is a 3/4" plywood box, sized to fit the saw cabinet base, with 10" outrigger panels on each side for mounting 3" diameter double locking casters. The double locking casters were sufficient to prevent movement of the saw in use. Much of the time, locking them was not necessary. Provisions were also made for a full length drawer in the cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The outrigger panels were supported by integral gussets in the front and back panels and an additional gusset at each caster location. Dust covers were added to improve appearance and eliminate debris accumulation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The mobile base was also designed to accept modular storage cabinets on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you are wondering, the mobile base and other parts were painted with *Rustoleum Hammered Paint, No. 7218, Dark Bronze.
> *
> Many folks have commented that the paint makes the wood look like metal!
> 
> An integral dust collection duct was also incorporated into the top of the mobile base. Other dust collection features will be discussed in a following section.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please stay with me, there's much more to come…...........


Hi Paul,

I just bought my first table saw this weekend: a used R4511. The leg stand is pretty beat-up and high unusable, so I was scouring the net for a solution and came across your great design. I was wondering if you might be able to send me the PDF you've mentioned in the other comments here? As a new user to lumber jocks, I'm unable to send private messages, but my email address is (my lumber jocks username)@hotmail.com.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## bdenison

paulnwa said:


> *Redesigned Mobile Base*
> 
> The Herculift mobile base supplied with the saw worked well, but it wasted a lot of space under the cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In addition, the heavy (~200#) granite top and cast iron mechanism made the saw feel top heavy and somewhat unstable when moving it, due to the small caster footprint. As others have done, my solution to this condition was to redesign the mobile base with a wider caster footprint:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wider footprint distributed the weight much more evenly and made the saw feel very stable.
> 
> The improved mobile base is a 3/4" plywood box, sized to fit the saw cabinet base, with 10" outrigger panels on each side for mounting 3" diameter double locking casters. The double locking casters were sufficient to prevent movement of the saw in use. Much of the time, locking them was not necessary. Provisions were also made for a full length drawer in the cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The outrigger panels were supported by integral gussets in the front and back panels and an additional gusset at each caster location. Dust covers were added to improve appearance and eliminate debris accumulation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The mobile base was also designed to accept modular storage cabinets on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you are wondering, the mobile base and other parts were painted with *Rustoleum Hammered Paint, No. 7218, Dark Bronze.
> *
> Many folks have commented that the paint makes the wood look like metal!
> 
> An integral dust collection duct was also incorporated into the top of the mobile base. Other dust collection features will be discussed in a following section.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please stay with me, there's much more to come…...........


I know I'm bumping an old thread, but I just picked myself up a R4511, and everything I have read says upgrading to Paul's base (or a version of…) is the way to go. Does anyone happen to have a copy of the drawings that they could share? TIA. Cheers!


----------



## paulnwa

paulnwa said:


> *Redesigned Mobile Base*
> 
> The Herculift mobile base supplied with the saw worked well, but it wasted a lot of space under the cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In addition, the heavy (~200#) granite top and cast iron mechanism made the saw feel top heavy and somewhat unstable when moving it, due to the small caster footprint. As others have done, my solution to this condition was to redesign the mobile base with a wider caster footprint:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wider footprint distributed the weight much more evenly and made the saw feel very stable.
> 
> The improved mobile base is a 3/4" plywood box, sized to fit the saw cabinet base, with 10" outrigger panels on each side for mounting 3" diameter double locking casters. The double locking casters were sufficient to prevent movement of the saw in use. Much of the time, locking them was not necessary. Provisions were also made for a full length drawer in the cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The outrigger panels were supported by integral gussets in the front and back panels and an additional gusset at each caster location. Dust covers were added to improve appearance and eliminate debris accumulation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The mobile base was also designed to accept modular storage cabinets on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you are wondering, the mobile base and other parts were painted with *Rustoleum Hammered Paint, No. 7218, Dark Bronze.
> *
> Many folks have commented that the paint makes the wood look like metal!
> 
> An integral dust collection duct was also incorporated into the top of the mobile base. Other dust collection features will be discussed in a following section.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please stay with me, there's much more to come…...........


Hi bdenison,

Please post your email and I will send you the drawings for the base. I am unable to post .pdf files on this forum.


----------



## bdenison

paulnwa said:


> *Redesigned Mobile Base*
> 
> The Herculift mobile base supplied with the saw worked well, but it wasted a lot of space under the cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In addition, the heavy (~200#) granite top and cast iron mechanism made the saw feel top heavy and somewhat unstable when moving it, due to the small caster footprint. As others have done, my solution to this condition was to redesign the mobile base with a wider caster footprint:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wider footprint distributed the weight much more evenly and made the saw feel very stable.
> 
> The improved mobile base is a 3/4" plywood box, sized to fit the saw cabinet base, with 10" outrigger panels on each side for mounting 3" diameter double locking casters. The double locking casters were sufficient to prevent movement of the saw in use. Much of the time, locking them was not necessary. Provisions were also made for a full length drawer in the cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The outrigger panels were supported by integral gussets in the front and back panels and an additional gusset at each caster location. Dust covers were added to improve appearance and eliminate debris accumulation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The mobile base was also designed to accept modular storage cabinets on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you are wondering, the mobile base and other parts were painted with *Rustoleum Hammered Paint, No. 7218, Dark Bronze.
> *
> Many folks have commented that the paint makes the wood look like metal!
> 
> An integral dust collection duct was also incorporated into the top of the mobile base. Other dust collection features will be discussed in a following section.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please stay with me, there's much more to come…...........


Wow, thanks for the quick reply Paul! You can reach me at brentdenison(at)hotmail(dot)com. I really appreciate the help here. Cheers!


----------



## bdenison

paulnwa said:


> *Redesigned Mobile Base*
> 
> The Herculift mobile base supplied with the saw worked well, but it wasted a lot of space under the cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In addition, the heavy (~200#) granite top and cast iron mechanism made the saw feel top heavy and somewhat unstable when moving it, due to the small caster footprint. As others have done, my solution to this condition was to redesign the mobile base with a wider caster footprint:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wider footprint distributed the weight much more evenly and made the saw feel very stable.
> 
> The improved mobile base is a 3/4" plywood box, sized to fit the saw cabinet base, with 10" outrigger panels on each side for mounting 3" diameter double locking casters. The double locking casters were sufficient to prevent movement of the saw in use. Much of the time, locking them was not necessary. Provisions were also made for a full length drawer in the cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The outrigger panels were supported by integral gussets in the front and back panels and an additional gusset at each caster location. Dust covers were added to improve appearance and eliminate debris accumulation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The mobile base was also designed to accept modular storage cabinets on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you are wondering, the mobile base and other parts were painted with *Rustoleum Hammered Paint, No. 7218, Dark Bronze.
> *
> Many folks have commented that the paint makes the wood look like metal!
> 
> An integral dust collection duct was also incorporated into the top of the mobile base. Other dust collection features will be discussed in a following section.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please stay with me, there's much more to come…...........


Hi folks, hoping to work on this base this weekend. Any chance someone can share a copy of Paul's plans? Email is above. Cheers!


----------



## bdenison

paulnwa said:


> *Redesigned Mobile Base*
> 
> The Herculift mobile base supplied with the saw worked well, but it wasted a lot of space under the cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In addition, the heavy (~200#) granite top and cast iron mechanism made the saw feel top heavy and somewhat unstable when moving it, due to the small caster footprint. As others have done, my solution to this condition was to redesign the mobile base with a wider caster footprint:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wider footprint distributed the weight much more evenly and made the saw feel very stable.
> 
> The improved mobile base is a 3/4" plywood box, sized to fit the saw cabinet base, with 10" outrigger panels on each side for mounting 3" diameter double locking casters. The double locking casters were sufficient to prevent movement of the saw in use. Much of the time, locking them was not necessary. Provisions were also made for a full length drawer in the cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The outrigger panels were supported by integral gussets in the front and back panels and an additional gusset at each caster location. Dust covers were added to improve appearance and eliminate debris accumulation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The mobile base was also designed to accept modular storage cabinets on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you are wondering, the mobile base and other parts were painted with *Rustoleum Hammered Paint, No. 7218, Dark Bronze.
> *
> Many folks have commented that the paint makes the wood look like metal!
> 
> An integral dust collection duct was also incorporated into the top of the mobile base. Other dust collection features will be discussed in a following section.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please stay with me, there's much more to come…...........


Thanks Paul! My apologies, not sure how I missed your first email. Thanks again for the help.


----------



## MWorker

paulnwa said:


> *Redesigned Mobile Base*
> 
> The Herculift mobile base supplied with the saw worked well, but it wasted a lot of space under the cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In addition, the heavy (~200#) granite top and cast iron mechanism made the saw feel top heavy and somewhat unstable when moving it, due to the small caster footprint. As others have done, my solution to this condition was to redesign the mobile base with a wider caster footprint:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wider footprint distributed the weight much more evenly and made the saw feel very stable.
> 
> The improved mobile base is a 3/4" plywood box, sized to fit the saw cabinet base, with 10" outrigger panels on each side for mounting 3" diameter double locking casters. The double locking casters were sufficient to prevent movement of the saw in use. Much of the time, locking them was not necessary. Provisions were also made for a full length drawer in the cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The outrigger panels were supported by integral gussets in the front and back panels and an additional gusset at each caster location. Dust covers were added to improve appearance and eliminate debris accumulation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The mobile base was also designed to accept modular storage cabinets on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you are wondering, the mobile base and other parts were painted with *Rustoleum Hammered Paint, No. 7218, Dark Bronze.
> *
> Many folks have commented that the paint makes the wood look like metal!
> 
> An integral dust collection duct was also incorporated into the top of the mobile base. Other dust collection features will be discussed in a following section.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please stay with me, there's much more to come…...........


Can someone please share the plans with me too? e-mail address is [email protected]
Paul graciously sent them to me last year, but my pc crashed and I couldn't recover them. Now that its summer, my first project was to build this.

Many thanks fellow Ridgid owners. This is a great saw for the money. I've upgraded the fence, as that was the only deficiency I have besides the mobile base.

Mike


----------



## paulnwa

paulnwa said:


> *Redesigned Mobile Base*
> 
> The Herculift mobile base supplied with the saw worked well, but it wasted a lot of space under the cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In addition, the heavy (~200#) granite top and cast iron mechanism made the saw feel top heavy and somewhat unstable when moving it, due to the small caster footprint. As others have done, my solution to this condition was to redesign the mobile base with a wider caster footprint:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wider footprint distributed the weight much more evenly and made the saw feel very stable.
> 
> The improved mobile base is a 3/4" plywood box, sized to fit the saw cabinet base, with 10" outrigger panels on each side for mounting 3" diameter double locking casters. The double locking casters were sufficient to prevent movement of the saw in use. Much of the time, locking them was not necessary. Provisions were also made for a full length drawer in the cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The outrigger panels were supported by integral gussets in the front and back panels and an additional gusset at each caster location. Dust covers were added to improve appearance and eliminate debris accumulation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The mobile base was also designed to accept modular storage cabinets on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you are wondering, the mobile base and other parts were painted with *Rustoleum Hammered Paint, No. 7218, Dark Bronze.
> *
> Many folks have commented that the paint makes the wood look like metal!
> 
> An integral dust collection duct was also incorporated into the top of the mobile base. Other dust collection features will be discussed in a following section.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please stay with me, there's much more to come…...........


Hi MikeW-

I resent the drawings today via your personal email.

Happy Woodworking!


----------



## maxruby

paulnwa said:


> *Redesigned Mobile Base*
> 
> The Herculift mobile base supplied with the saw worked well, but it wasted a lot of space under the cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In addition, the heavy (~200#) granite top and cast iron mechanism made the saw feel top heavy and somewhat unstable when moving it, due to the small caster footprint. As others have done, my solution to this condition was to redesign the mobile base with a wider caster footprint:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wider footprint distributed the weight much more evenly and made the saw feel very stable.
> 
> The improved mobile base is a 3/4" plywood box, sized to fit the saw cabinet base, with 10" outrigger panels on each side for mounting 3" diameter double locking casters. The double locking casters were sufficient to prevent movement of the saw in use. Much of the time, locking them was not necessary. Provisions were also made for a full length drawer in the cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The outrigger panels were supported by integral gussets in the front and back panels and an additional gusset at each caster location. Dust covers were added to improve appearance and eliminate debris accumulation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The mobile base was also designed to accept modular storage cabinets on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you are wondering, the mobile base and other parts were painted with *Rustoleum Hammered Paint, No. 7218, Dark Bronze.
> *
> Many folks have commented that the paint makes the wood look like metal!
> 
> An integral dust collection duct was also incorporated into the top of the mobile base. Other dust collection features will be discussed in a following section.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please stay with me, there's much more to come…...........


Hey Paul. Do you think I could get a copy of the plans too? My email address is [email protected] Great idea. Thanks a lot.

Dean


----------



## Vintage75

paulnwa said:


> *Redesigned Mobile Base*
> 
> The Herculift mobile base supplied with the saw worked well, but it wasted a lot of space under the cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In addition, the heavy (~200#) granite top and cast iron mechanism made the saw feel top heavy and somewhat unstable when moving it, due to the small caster footprint. As others have done, my solution to this condition was to redesign the mobile base with a wider caster footprint:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wider footprint distributed the weight much more evenly and made the saw feel very stable.
> 
> The improved mobile base is a 3/4" plywood box, sized to fit the saw cabinet base, with 10" outrigger panels on each side for mounting 3" diameter double locking casters. The double locking casters were sufficient to prevent movement of the saw in use. Much of the time, locking them was not necessary. Provisions were also made for a full length drawer in the cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The outrigger panels were supported by integral gussets in the front and back panels and an additional gusset at each caster location. Dust covers were added to improve appearance and eliminate debris accumulation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The mobile base was also designed to accept modular storage cabinets on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you are wondering, the mobile base and other parts were painted with *Rustoleum Hammered Paint, No. 7218, Dark Bronze.
> *
> Many folks have commented that the paint makes the wood look like metal!
> 
> An integral dust collection duct was also incorporated into the top of the mobile base. Other dust collection features will be discussed in a following section.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please stay with me, there's much more to come…...........


I'm late to the party, but am so glad to have stumbled upon your blog, Paul. Thanks for posting this project! I recently took my r4511 apart to move to a new house, and thought now would be the time to do some upgrades. I'm working on some extended rails for extra rip capacity, but after seeing your impressive mobile base and dust collection designs, I may have a bigger project on my hands! Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, right?

Aaron


----------



## paulnwa

paulnwa said:


> *Redesigned Mobile Base*
> 
> The Herculift mobile base supplied with the saw worked well, but it wasted a lot of space under the cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In addition, the heavy (~200#) granite top and cast iron mechanism made the saw feel top heavy and somewhat unstable when moving it, due to the small caster footprint. As others have done, my solution to this condition was to redesign the mobile base with a wider caster footprint:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wider footprint distributed the weight much more evenly and made the saw feel very stable.
> 
> The improved mobile base is a 3/4" plywood box, sized to fit the saw cabinet base, with 10" outrigger panels on each side for mounting 3" diameter double locking casters. The double locking casters were sufficient to prevent movement of the saw in use. Much of the time, locking them was not necessary. Provisions were also made for a full length drawer in the cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The outrigger panels were supported by integral gussets in the front and back panels and an additional gusset at each caster location. Dust covers were added to improve appearance and eliminate debris accumulation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The mobile base was also designed to accept modular storage cabinets on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you are wondering, the mobile base and other parts were painted with *Rustoleum Hammered Paint, No. 7218, Dark Bronze.
> *
> Many folks have commented that the paint makes the wood look like metal!
> 
> An integral dust collection duct was also incorporated into the top of the mobile base. Other dust collection features will be discussed in a following section.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please stay with me, there's much more to come…...........


Hi Aaron,

I hope the info is useful to you at least as a starting point.
When you complete your mods, please post on this site to share with other folks. Hopefully you will come up with some improvements to my design.


----------



## ShoelessJohn

paulnwa said:


> *Redesigned Mobile Base*
> 
> The Herculift mobile base supplied with the saw worked well, but it wasted a lot of space under the cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In addition, the heavy (~200#) granite top and cast iron mechanism made the saw feel top heavy and somewhat unstable when moving it, due to the small caster footprint. As others have done, my solution to this condition was to redesign the mobile base with a wider caster footprint:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wider footprint distributed the weight much more evenly and made the saw feel very stable.
> 
> The improved mobile base is a 3/4" plywood box, sized to fit the saw cabinet base, with 10" outrigger panels on each side for mounting 3" diameter double locking casters. The double locking casters were sufficient to prevent movement of the saw in use. Much of the time, locking them was not necessary. Provisions were also made for a full length drawer in the cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The outrigger panels were supported by integral gussets in the front and back panels and an additional gusset at each caster location. Dust covers were added to improve appearance and eliminate debris accumulation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The mobile base was also designed to accept modular storage cabinets on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you are wondering, the mobile base and other parts were painted with *Rustoleum Hammered Paint, No. 7218, Dark Bronze.
> *
> Many folks have commented that the paint makes the wood look like metal!
> 
> An integral dust collection duct was also incorporated into the top of the mobile base. Other dust collection features will be discussed in a following section.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please stay with me, there's much more to come…...........


Paul,

I really love the mods you made to your rigid 4511

If possible could I please get a copy of the base pdf. My email is johnferch8(at)gmail(dot)com.

Thanks in advance


----------



## paulnwa

paulnwa said:


> *Redesigned Mobile Base*
> 
> The Herculift mobile base supplied with the saw worked well, but it wasted a lot of space under the cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In addition, the heavy (~200#) granite top and cast iron mechanism made the saw feel top heavy and somewhat unstable when moving it, due to the small caster footprint. As others have done, my solution to this condition was to redesign the mobile base with a wider caster footprint:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wider footprint distributed the weight much more evenly and made the saw feel very stable.
> 
> The improved mobile base is a 3/4" plywood box, sized to fit the saw cabinet base, with 10" outrigger panels on each side for mounting 3" diameter double locking casters. The double locking casters were sufficient to prevent movement of the saw in use. Much of the time, locking them was not necessary. Provisions were also made for a full length drawer in the cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The outrigger panels were supported by integral gussets in the front and back panels and an additional gusset at each caster location. Dust covers were added to improve appearance and eliminate debris accumulation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The mobile base was also designed to accept modular storage cabinets on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you are wondering, the mobile base and other parts were painted with *Rustoleum Hammered Paint, No. 7218, Dark Bronze.
> *
> Many folks have commented that the paint makes the wood look like metal!
> 
> An integral dust collection duct was also incorporated into the top of the mobile base. Other dust collection features will be discussed in a following section.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please stay with me, there's much more to come…...........


Hi John,
Drawings sent. Please check your email.


----------



## Narfi

paulnwa said:


> *Redesigned Mobile Base*
> 
> The Herculift mobile base supplied with the saw worked well, but it wasted a lot of space under the cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In addition, the heavy (~200#) granite top and cast iron mechanism made the saw feel top heavy and somewhat unstable when moving it, due to the small caster footprint. As others have done, my solution to this condition was to redesign the mobile base with a wider caster footprint:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wider footprint distributed the weight much more evenly and made the saw feel very stable.
> 
> The improved mobile base is a 3/4" plywood box, sized to fit the saw cabinet base, with 10" outrigger panels on each side for mounting 3" diameter double locking casters. The double locking casters were sufficient to prevent movement of the saw in use. Much of the time, locking them was not necessary. Provisions were also made for a full length drawer in the cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The outrigger panels were supported by integral gussets in the front and back panels and an additional gusset at each caster location. Dust covers were added to improve appearance and eliminate debris accumulation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The mobile base was also designed to accept modular storage cabinets on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you are wondering, the mobile base and other parts were painted with *Rustoleum Hammered Paint, No. 7218, Dark Bronze.
> *
> Many folks have commented that the paint makes the wood look like metal!
> 
> An integral dust collection duct was also incorporated into the top of the mobile base. Other dust collection features will be discussed in a following section.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please stay with me, there's much more to come…...........


Paul,

The modifications are very impressive! Could you please email me the drawings for the base? Narfi.Stefansson(at)gmail(dot)com.

Thanks,

Narfi


----------



## redpanda

paulnwa said:


> *Redesigned Mobile Base*
> 
> The Herculift mobile base supplied with the saw worked well, but it wasted a lot of space under the cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In addition, the heavy (~200#) granite top and cast iron mechanism made the saw feel top heavy and somewhat unstable when moving it, due to the small caster footprint. As others have done, my solution to this condition was to redesign the mobile base with a wider caster footprint:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wider footprint distributed the weight much more evenly and made the saw feel very stable.
> 
> The improved mobile base is a 3/4" plywood box, sized to fit the saw cabinet base, with 10" outrigger panels on each side for mounting 3" diameter double locking casters. The double locking casters were sufficient to prevent movement of the saw in use. Much of the time, locking them was not necessary. Provisions were also made for a full length drawer in the cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The outrigger panels were supported by integral gussets in the front and back panels and an additional gusset at each caster location. Dust covers were added to improve appearance and eliminate debris accumulation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The mobile base was also designed to accept modular storage cabinets on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you are wondering, the mobile base and other parts were painted with *Rustoleum Hammered Paint, No. 7218, Dark Bronze.
> *
> Many folks have commented that the paint makes the wood look like metal!
> 
> An integral dust collection duct was also incorporated into the top of the mobile base. Other dust collection features will be discussed in a following section.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please stay with me, there's much more to come…...........


Hey Paul,

I just picked up a used R4511 and I am in the same position as others, the mobile base needs to go. Would you be able to send me your plans as well? My email address is [email protected]

-Mike


----------



## Matt200

paulnwa said:


> *Redesigned Mobile Base*
> 
> The Herculift mobile base supplied with the saw worked well, but it wasted a lot of space under the cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In addition, the heavy (~200#) granite top and cast iron mechanism made the saw feel top heavy and somewhat unstable when moving it, due to the small caster footprint. As others have done, my solution to this condition was to redesign the mobile base with a wider caster footprint:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wider footprint distributed the weight much more evenly and made the saw feel very stable.
> 
> The improved mobile base is a 3/4" plywood box, sized to fit the saw cabinet base, with 10" outrigger panels on each side for mounting 3" diameter double locking casters. The double locking casters were sufficient to prevent movement of the saw in use. Much of the time, locking them was not necessary. Provisions were also made for a full length drawer in the cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The outrigger panels were supported by integral gussets in the front and back panels and an additional gusset at each caster location. Dust covers were added to improve appearance and eliminate debris accumulation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The mobile base was also designed to accept modular storage cabinets on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you are wondering, the mobile base and other parts were painted with *Rustoleum Hammered Paint, No. 7218, Dark Bronze.
> *
> Many folks have commented that the paint makes the wood look like metal!
> 
> An integral dust collection duct was also incorporated into the top of the mobile base. Other dust collection features will be discussed in a following section.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please stay with me, there's much more to come…...........


Hi Paul and LJ members
I'm new to the forum and unable to post personal messages but as others have frequently asked, could someone send me the mobile base dimensions?

My email is [email protected]

Paul - Thanks for sharing your fantastic work on this design.
I just bought a used 4511, and after the struggle to get it into the shop, think many of your modifications can enhance it's capabilities.

Matt - Georgia


----------



## paulnwa

paulnwa said:


> *Redesigned Mobile Base*
> 
> The Herculift mobile base supplied with the saw worked well, but it wasted a lot of space under the cabinet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In addition, the heavy (~200#) granite top and cast iron mechanism made the saw feel top heavy and somewhat unstable when moving it, due to the small caster footprint. As others have done, my solution to this condition was to redesign the mobile base with a wider caster footprint:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wider footprint distributed the weight much more evenly and made the saw feel very stable.
> 
> The improved mobile base is a 3/4" plywood box, sized to fit the saw cabinet base, with 10" outrigger panels on each side for mounting 3" diameter double locking casters. The double locking casters were sufficient to prevent movement of the saw in use. Much of the time, locking them was not necessary. Provisions were also made for a full length drawer in the cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The outrigger panels were supported by integral gussets in the front and back panels and an additional gusset at each caster location. Dust covers were added to improve appearance and eliminate debris accumulation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The mobile base was also designed to accept modular storage cabinets on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you are wondering, the mobile base and other parts were painted with *Rustoleum Hammered Paint, No. 7218, Dark Bronze.
> *
> Many folks have commented that the paint makes the wood look like metal!
> 
> An integral dust collection duct was also incorporated into the top of the mobile base. Other dust collection features will be discussed in a following section.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please stay with me, there's much more to come…...........


Hi Matt,

Drawings sent. Check your email.
Please post your version of this design to help others with their modifications.


----------



## paulnwa

*Improved Dust Collection*

In my view, adequate dust collection from a tool involves both the design of the tool and the design of the dust collection provisions. The *Model R4511* cabinet is a well made, three sided, heavy gage sheet metal design. The fourth side is open and covered with the hinged plastic motor cover. Note the large corner gussets and the ledge that surrounds the bottom of the cabinet. A sloped plastic pan, 3/4" deep at the front and about 6" at the rear, is provided under the saw cabinet for dust collection. An opening in the rear side of the pan was sized for a 4" diameter DC duct.










In my experience, I have found dust collection from a tool to be most effective by eliminating as many corners and horizontal surfaces as possible, so that dust and debris cannot accumulate in those areas. To that end, I added sloped baffles to all sides of the opening in the bottom of the saw. Note that the baffles cover all of the corner gussets and the ledge around the bottom of the cabinet. The baffles were made from 5mm (0.20") birch underlayment, attached with aluminum duct tape. This material and attachment method provide smooth surfaces that don't tend to accumulate dust and debris.










Note in the following photo that all of the sloped cabinet baffles channel into a 2 1/2" x 12" duct built into the top of the mobile base. All of the airflow from the saw cabinet flows thru this duct on its way to my 3HP dust collector.










To further minimize dust entrapment, I added a sloped baffle to the motor cover. Even though the motor cover did have a sloped bottom panel, the new baffle was installed with a steeper slope and an overhanging edge to channel the dust and debris into the integral duct. This baffle was made from plastic coated hardboard.










The original dust collection port in the back of the plastic pan was designed for a 4" diameter DC fitting, protruding straight out of the back of the saw. Such an arrangement requires extra space behind the saw for additional elbow fittings and/or flex hose, which doesn't bend around a very small radius. I designed the integral duct in the top of the new mobile base to accommodate a 6" diameter, right angle, sheet metal furnace duct boot and 6" diameter PVC coupling. This accommodates the 6" ducting used for my overhead dust collection system and allows the flex duct to lie parallel to the back of the saw, saving a lot of space - a precious commodity in my small shop. This flex duct orientation also makes it easier to rotate the saw away from the wall to accommodate long pieces. The 6" diameter duct fitting provides about 225% more area than the original 4" duct, with a corresponding increase in airflow.










Thanks for staying with me-there's a lot more to come…............


----------



## A10GAC

paulnwa said:


> *Improved Dust Collection*
> 
> In my view, adequate dust collection from a tool involves both the design of the tool and the design of the dust collection provisions. The *Model R4511* cabinet is a well made, three sided, heavy gage sheet metal design. The fourth side is open and covered with the hinged plastic motor cover. Note the large corner gussets and the ledge that surrounds the bottom of the cabinet. A sloped plastic pan, 3/4" deep at the front and about 6" at the rear, is provided under the saw cabinet for dust collection. An opening in the rear side of the pan was sized for a 4" diameter DC duct.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my experience, I have found dust collection from a tool to be most effective by eliminating as many corners and horizontal surfaces as possible, so that dust and debris cannot accumulate in those areas. To that end, I added sloped baffles to all sides of the opening in the bottom of the saw. Note that the baffles cover all of the corner gussets and the ledge around the bottom of the cabinet. The baffles were made from 5mm (0.20") birch underlayment, attached with aluminum duct tape. This material and attachment method provide smooth surfaces that don't tend to accumulate dust and debris.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note in the following photo that all of the sloped cabinet baffles channel into a 2 1/2" x 12" duct built into the top of the mobile base. All of the airflow from the saw cabinet flows thru this duct on its way to my 3HP dust collector.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To further minimize dust entrapment, I added a sloped baffle to the motor cover. Even though the motor cover did have a sloped bottom panel, the new baffle was installed with a steeper slope and an overhanging edge to channel the dust and debris into the integral duct. This baffle was made from plastic coated hardboard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The original dust collection port in the back of the plastic pan was designed for a 4" diameter DC fitting, protruding straight out of the back of the saw. Such an arrangement requires extra space behind the saw for additional elbow fittings and/or flex hose, which doesn't bend around a very small radius. I designed the integral duct in the top of the new mobile base to accommodate a 6" diameter, right angle, sheet metal furnace duct boot and 6" diameter PVC coupling. This accommodates the 6" ducting used for my overhead dust collection system and allows the flex duct to lie parallel to the back of the saw, saving a lot of space - a precious commodity in my small shop. This flex duct orientation also makes it easier to rotate the saw away from the wall to accommodate long pieces. The 6" diameter duct fitting provides about 225% more area than the original 4" duct, with a corresponding increase in airflow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for staying with me-there's a lot more to come…............


I like where you're going with the dust collection. I have been making cardstock templates for my contractor saw to do basically the same thing. I was planning on using 1/8" hardboard for the final product but, I like the plastic coated stuff you used even better. Where did you find it? I don't think I've ever seen that at the BORG or smaller lumber yards around here.


----------



## paulnwa

paulnwa said:


> *Improved Dust Collection*
> 
> In my view, adequate dust collection from a tool involves both the design of the tool and the design of the dust collection provisions. The *Model R4511* cabinet is a well made, three sided, heavy gage sheet metal design. The fourth side is open and covered with the hinged plastic motor cover. Note the large corner gussets and the ledge that surrounds the bottom of the cabinet. A sloped plastic pan, 3/4" deep at the front and about 6" at the rear, is provided under the saw cabinet for dust collection. An opening in the rear side of the pan was sized for a 4" diameter DC duct.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my experience, I have found dust collection from a tool to be most effective by eliminating as many corners and horizontal surfaces as possible, so that dust and debris cannot accumulate in those areas. To that end, I added sloped baffles to all sides of the opening in the bottom of the saw. Note that the baffles cover all of the corner gussets and the ledge around the bottom of the cabinet. The baffles were made from 5mm (0.20") birch underlayment, attached with aluminum duct tape. This material and attachment method provide smooth surfaces that don't tend to accumulate dust and debris.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note in the following photo that all of the sloped cabinet baffles channel into a 2 1/2" x 12" duct built into the top of the mobile base. All of the airflow from the saw cabinet flows thru this duct on its way to my 3HP dust collector.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To further minimize dust entrapment, I added a sloped baffle to the motor cover. Even though the motor cover did have a sloped bottom panel, the new baffle was installed with a steeper slope and an overhanging edge to channel the dust and debris into the integral duct. This baffle was made from plastic coated hardboard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The original dust collection port in the back of the plastic pan was designed for a 4" diameter DC fitting, protruding straight out of the back of the saw. Such an arrangement requires extra space behind the saw for additional elbow fittings and/or flex hose, which doesn't bend around a very small radius. I designed the integral duct in the top of the new mobile base to accommodate a 6" diameter, right angle, sheet metal furnace duct boot and 6" diameter PVC coupling. This accommodates the 6" ducting used for my overhead dust collection system and allows the flex duct to lie parallel to the back of the saw, saving a lot of space - a precious commodity in my small shop. This flex duct orientation also makes it easier to rotate the saw away from the wall to accommodate long pieces. The 6" diameter duct fitting provides about 225% more area than the original 4" duct, with a corresponding increase in airflow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for staying with me-there's a lot more to come…............


I'm sorry to say that I scrounged that stuff from a junk bin at Home Depot some time ago. There were several small sheets of broken material that I packratted away. I suspect it must have been material from an old display. However, regular hardboard with one smooth side should work just as well. I would give it a good coat of paste wax after installation. The aluminum duct tape is a little expensive, but it sure works well. There is a lot on a roll and I use it to seal my PVC duct connections.


----------



## A10GAC

paulnwa said:


> *Improved Dust Collection*
> 
> In my view, adequate dust collection from a tool involves both the design of the tool and the design of the dust collection provisions. The *Model R4511* cabinet is a well made, three sided, heavy gage sheet metal design. The fourth side is open and covered with the hinged plastic motor cover. Note the large corner gussets and the ledge that surrounds the bottom of the cabinet. A sloped plastic pan, 3/4" deep at the front and about 6" at the rear, is provided under the saw cabinet for dust collection. An opening in the rear side of the pan was sized for a 4" diameter DC duct.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my experience, I have found dust collection from a tool to be most effective by eliminating as many corners and horizontal surfaces as possible, so that dust and debris cannot accumulate in those areas. To that end, I added sloped baffles to all sides of the opening in the bottom of the saw. Note that the baffles cover all of the corner gussets and the ledge around the bottom of the cabinet. The baffles were made from 5mm (0.20") birch underlayment, attached with aluminum duct tape. This material and attachment method provide smooth surfaces that don't tend to accumulate dust and debris.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note in the following photo that all of the sloped cabinet baffles channel into a 2 1/2" x 12" duct built into the top of the mobile base. All of the airflow from the saw cabinet flows thru this duct on its way to my 3HP dust collector.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To further minimize dust entrapment, I added a sloped baffle to the motor cover. Even though the motor cover did have a sloped bottom panel, the new baffle was installed with a steeper slope and an overhanging edge to channel the dust and debris into the integral duct. This baffle was made from plastic coated hardboard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The original dust collection port in the back of the plastic pan was designed for a 4" diameter DC fitting, protruding straight out of the back of the saw. Such an arrangement requires extra space behind the saw for additional elbow fittings and/or flex hose, which doesn't bend around a very small radius. I designed the integral duct in the top of the new mobile base to accommodate a 6" diameter, right angle, sheet metal furnace duct boot and 6" diameter PVC coupling. This accommodates the 6" ducting used for my overhead dust collection system and allows the flex duct to lie parallel to the back of the saw, saving a lot of space - a precious commodity in my small shop. This flex duct orientation also makes it easier to rotate the saw away from the wall to accommodate long pieces. The 6" diameter duct fitting provides about 225% more area than the original 4" duct, with a corresponding increase in airflow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for staying with me-there's a lot more to come…............


Thanks, I'll have to keep my eye out for it when I'm in the store. I've been following the series…nice work…I totally appreciate the building a good product better aspects of the design.


----------



## vegeta

paulnwa said:


> *Improved Dust Collection*
> 
> In my view, adequate dust collection from a tool involves both the design of the tool and the design of the dust collection provisions. The *Model R4511* cabinet is a well made, three sided, heavy gage sheet metal design. The fourth side is open and covered with the hinged plastic motor cover. Note the large corner gussets and the ledge that surrounds the bottom of the cabinet. A sloped plastic pan, 3/4" deep at the front and about 6" at the rear, is provided under the saw cabinet for dust collection. An opening in the rear side of the pan was sized for a 4" diameter DC duct.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my experience, I have found dust collection from a tool to be most effective by eliminating as many corners and horizontal surfaces as possible, so that dust and debris cannot accumulate in those areas. To that end, I added sloped baffles to all sides of the opening in the bottom of the saw. Note that the baffles cover all of the corner gussets and the ledge around the bottom of the cabinet. The baffles were made from 5mm (0.20") birch underlayment, attached with aluminum duct tape. This material and attachment method provide smooth surfaces that don't tend to accumulate dust and debris.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note in the following photo that all of the sloped cabinet baffles channel into a 2 1/2" x 12" duct built into the top of the mobile base. All of the airflow from the saw cabinet flows thru this duct on its way to my 3HP dust collector.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To further minimize dust entrapment, I added a sloped baffle to the motor cover. Even though the motor cover did have a sloped bottom panel, the new baffle was installed with a steeper slope and an overhanging edge to channel the dust and debris into the integral duct. This baffle was made from plastic coated hardboard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The original dust collection port in the back of the plastic pan was designed for a 4" diameter DC fitting, protruding straight out of the back of the saw. Such an arrangement requires extra space behind the saw for additional elbow fittings and/or flex hose, which doesn't bend around a very small radius. I designed the integral duct in the top of the new mobile base to accommodate a 6" diameter, right angle, sheet metal furnace duct boot and 6" diameter PVC coupling. This accommodates the 6" ducting used for my overhead dust collection system and allows the flex duct to lie parallel to the back of the saw, saving a lot of space - a precious commodity in my small shop. This flex duct orientation also makes it easier to rotate the saw away from the wall to accommodate long pieces. The 6" diameter duct fitting provides about 225% more area than the original 4" duct, with a corresponding increase in airflow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for staying with me-there's a lot more to come…............


these are great upgrades 
it looks like they will work on my craftsman saw they look very similar in design


----------



## paulnwa

*On-Board Storage *

My present shop is very small - approximately 9 1/2 ft. x 20 ft. With tools along both long walls, it is more like a woodworking corridor…..........  It does take some planning of operating sequences! Needless to say, I don't whack up any 4' x 8' sheet goods - that's what my sawhorses and Skilsaw out in the carport are for! However, I am thankful to have even a small shop space to putter in, and most of my projects will be small items.

That said, real estate in my shop is a very precious commodity. Consequently, I designed the new mobile base for this *Model R4511* with provisions to add modular storage cabinets.

The left side of this saw table extends about 12 inches beyond the cabinet. As designed, the only residents of this space were the Tilt Handwheel and the fence storage brackets.










To make the best use of this space, I was willing to give up the fence storage brackets and try to figure out some way to relocate the Tilt Handwheel. So I designed a five-drawer cabinet to fit this space under the table extension and between the caster outriggers on the mobile base. Cabinet construction was mostly Baltic Birch plywood, with various other varieties used in less visible places. Visible edges on the front of the cabinet were faced with 1/2" poplar. The 1/2" back panel of the cabinet was secured to the saw cabinet with screws.










All of the drawers are 10 1/2" deep with 1/2" Baltic Birch frames and most have 5mm Birch plywood underlayment bottoms. The drawer sides are dadoed into the drawer fronts, which, I discovered later, made them much harder to get aligned with one another on installation. If I were doing it again, I would make separate drawer fronts. All drawers are mounted on ball bearing full extension slides with 1" overtravel. I found a lot of these slides for $4/pair, so I couldn't pass them up.










The large drawer was designed to hold my saw blades, and has a 1/2" thick BB ply bottom to accommodate the extra weight. The drawer will store 11 saw blades. In addition, there is also space along the side of the blade compartment for my 8" dado set and my 8" box joint cutter set.










In the matching space on the right side of the saw cabinet, I designed a small cabinet with a drawer mounted on the same full extension ball bearing slides with overtravel. Construction of this cabinet was the same as for the cabinet on the left side of the mobile base. The space above this cabinet is taken up by the motor cover. Tho small, this drawer will still be useful for storing miscellaneous accessories and tooling.










As mentioned earlier, I designed the new mobile base with a deep drawer in its front panel. This drawer is about 20" deep and is mounted on full extension ball bearing slides. The large size of this drawer will accommodate storage of bulky items like my Delta Tenoning Jig, Zero Clearance Inserts, etc.










So, that's it for the on-board storage provisions. Thanks for coming along - but there is much more to come…............


----------



## jaydubya

paulnwa said:


> *On-Board Storage *
> 
> My present shop is very small - approximately 9 1/2 ft. x 20 ft. With tools along both long walls, it is more like a woodworking corridor…..........  It does take some planning of operating sequences! Needless to say, I don't whack up any 4' x 8' sheet goods - that's what my sawhorses and Skilsaw out in the carport are for! However, I am thankful to have even a small shop space to putter in, and most of my projects will be small items.
> 
> That said, real estate in my shop is a very precious commodity. Consequently, I designed the new mobile base for this *Model R4511* with provisions to add modular storage cabinets.
> 
> The left side of this saw table extends about 12 inches beyond the cabinet. As designed, the only residents of this space were the Tilt Handwheel and the fence storage brackets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the best use of this space, I was willing to give up the fence storage brackets and try to figure out some way to relocate the Tilt Handwheel. So I designed a five-drawer cabinet to fit this space under the table extension and between the caster outriggers on the mobile base. Cabinet construction was mostly Baltic Birch plywood, with various other varieties used in less visible places. Visible edges on the front of the cabinet were faced with 1/2" poplar. The 1/2" back panel of the cabinet was secured to the saw cabinet with screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of the drawers are 10 1/2" deep with 1/2" Baltic Birch frames and most have 5mm Birch plywood underlayment bottoms. The drawer sides are dadoed into the drawer fronts, which, I discovered later, made them much harder to get aligned with one another on installation. If I were doing it again, I would make separate drawer fronts. All drawers are mounted on ball bearing full extension slides with 1" overtravel. I found a lot of these slides for $4/pair, so I couldn't pass them up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The large drawer was designed to hold my saw blades, and has a 1/2" thick BB ply bottom to accommodate the extra weight. The drawer will store 11 saw blades. In addition, there is also space along the side of the blade compartment for my 8" dado set and my 8" box joint cutter set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the matching space on the right side of the saw cabinet, I designed a small cabinet with a drawer mounted on the same full extension ball bearing slides with overtravel. Construction of this cabinet was the same as for the cabinet on the left side of the mobile base. The space above this cabinet is taken up by the motor cover. Tho small, this drawer will still be useful for storing miscellaneous accessories and tooling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As mentioned earlier, I designed the new mobile base with a deep drawer in its front panel. This drawer is about 20" deep and is mounted on full extension ball bearing slides. The large size of this drawer will accommodate storage of bulky items like my Delta Tenoning Jig, Zero Clearance Inserts, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, that's it for the on-board storage provisions. Thanks for coming along - but there is much more to come…............


whats your plan for relocating the tilt handwheel?


----------



## b2rtch

paulnwa said:


> *On-Board Storage *
> 
> My present shop is very small - approximately 9 1/2 ft. x 20 ft. With tools along both long walls, it is more like a woodworking corridor…..........  It does take some planning of operating sequences! Needless to say, I don't whack up any 4' x 8' sheet goods - that's what my sawhorses and Skilsaw out in the carport are for! However, I am thankful to have even a small shop space to putter in, and most of my projects will be small items.
> 
> That said, real estate in my shop is a very precious commodity. Consequently, I designed the new mobile base for this *Model R4511* with provisions to add modular storage cabinets.
> 
> The left side of this saw table extends about 12 inches beyond the cabinet. As designed, the only residents of this space were the Tilt Handwheel and the fence storage brackets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the best use of this space, I was willing to give up the fence storage brackets and try to figure out some way to relocate the Tilt Handwheel. So I designed a five-drawer cabinet to fit this space under the table extension and between the caster outriggers on the mobile base. Cabinet construction was mostly Baltic Birch plywood, with various other varieties used in less visible places. Visible edges on the front of the cabinet were faced with 1/2" poplar. The 1/2" back panel of the cabinet was secured to the saw cabinet with screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of the drawers are 10 1/2" deep with 1/2" Baltic Birch frames and most have 5mm Birch plywood underlayment bottoms. The drawer sides are dadoed into the drawer fronts, which, I discovered later, made them much harder to get aligned with one another on installation. If I were doing it again, I would make separate drawer fronts. All drawers are mounted on ball bearing full extension slides with 1" overtravel. I found a lot of these slides for $4/pair, so I couldn't pass them up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The large drawer was designed to hold my saw blades, and has a 1/2" thick BB ply bottom to accommodate the extra weight. The drawer will store 11 saw blades. In addition, there is also space along the side of the blade compartment for my 8" dado set and my 8" box joint cutter set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the matching space on the right side of the saw cabinet, I designed a small cabinet with a drawer mounted on the same full extension ball bearing slides with overtravel. Construction of this cabinet was the same as for the cabinet on the left side of the mobile base. The space above this cabinet is taken up by the motor cover. Tho small, this drawer will still be useful for storing miscellaneous accessories and tooling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As mentioned earlier, I designed the new mobile base with a deep drawer in its front panel. This drawer is about 20" deep and is mounted on full extension ball bearing slides. The large size of this drawer will accommodate storage of bulky items like my Delta Tenoning Jig, Zero Clearance Inserts, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, that's it for the on-board storage provisions. Thanks for coming along - but there is much more to come…............


Could you post picture of the whole thing? 
Thank you.


----------



## DamnYankee

paulnwa said:


> *On-Board Storage *
> 
> My present shop is very small - approximately 9 1/2 ft. x 20 ft. With tools along both long walls, it is more like a woodworking corridor…..........  It does take some planning of operating sequences! Needless to say, I don't whack up any 4' x 8' sheet goods - that's what my sawhorses and Skilsaw out in the carport are for! However, I am thankful to have even a small shop space to putter in, and most of my projects will be small items.
> 
> That said, real estate in my shop is a very precious commodity. Consequently, I designed the new mobile base for this *Model R4511* with provisions to add modular storage cabinets.
> 
> The left side of this saw table extends about 12 inches beyond the cabinet. As designed, the only residents of this space were the Tilt Handwheel and the fence storage brackets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the best use of this space, I was willing to give up the fence storage brackets and try to figure out some way to relocate the Tilt Handwheel. So I designed a five-drawer cabinet to fit this space under the table extension and between the caster outriggers on the mobile base. Cabinet construction was mostly Baltic Birch plywood, with various other varieties used in less visible places. Visible edges on the front of the cabinet were faced with 1/2" poplar. The 1/2" back panel of the cabinet was secured to the saw cabinet with screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of the drawers are 10 1/2" deep with 1/2" Baltic Birch frames and most have 5mm Birch plywood underlayment bottoms. The drawer sides are dadoed into the drawer fronts, which, I discovered later, made them much harder to get aligned with one another on installation. If I were doing it again, I would make separate drawer fronts. All drawers are mounted on ball bearing full extension slides with 1" overtravel. I found a lot of these slides for $4/pair, so I couldn't pass them up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The large drawer was designed to hold my saw blades, and has a 1/2" thick BB ply bottom to accommodate the extra weight. The drawer will store 11 saw blades. In addition, there is also space along the side of the blade compartment for my 8" dado set and my 8" box joint cutter set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the matching space on the right side of the saw cabinet, I designed a small cabinet with a drawer mounted on the same full extension ball bearing slides with overtravel. Construction of this cabinet was the same as for the cabinet on the left side of the mobile base. The space above this cabinet is taken up by the motor cover. Tho small, this drawer will still be useful for storing miscellaneous accessories and tooling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As mentioned earlier, I designed the new mobile base with a deep drawer in its front panel. This drawer is about 20" deep and is mounted on full extension ball bearing slides. The large size of this drawer will accommodate storage of bulky items like my Delta Tenoning Jig, Zero Clearance Inserts, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, that's it for the on-board storage provisions. Thanks for coming along - but there is much more to come…............


Yes pictures please and more on tilt wheel


----------



## paulnwa

paulnwa said:


> *On-Board Storage *
> 
> My present shop is very small - approximately 9 1/2 ft. x 20 ft. With tools along both long walls, it is more like a woodworking corridor…..........  It does take some planning of operating sequences! Needless to say, I don't whack up any 4' x 8' sheet goods - that's what my sawhorses and Skilsaw out in the carport are for! However, I am thankful to have even a small shop space to putter in, and most of my projects will be small items.
> 
> That said, real estate in my shop is a very precious commodity. Consequently, I designed the new mobile base for this *Model R4511* with provisions to add modular storage cabinets.
> 
> The left side of this saw table extends about 12 inches beyond the cabinet. As designed, the only residents of this space were the Tilt Handwheel and the fence storage brackets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the best use of this space, I was willing to give up the fence storage brackets and try to figure out some way to relocate the Tilt Handwheel. So I designed a five-drawer cabinet to fit this space under the table extension and between the caster outriggers on the mobile base. Cabinet construction was mostly Baltic Birch plywood, with various other varieties used in less visible places. Visible edges on the front of the cabinet were faced with 1/2" poplar. The 1/2" back panel of the cabinet was secured to the saw cabinet with screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of the drawers are 10 1/2" deep with 1/2" Baltic Birch frames and most have 5mm Birch plywood underlayment bottoms. The drawer sides are dadoed into the drawer fronts, which, I discovered later, made them much harder to get aligned with one another on installation. If I were doing it again, I would make separate drawer fronts. All drawers are mounted on ball bearing full extension slides with 1" overtravel. I found a lot of these slides for $4/pair, so I couldn't pass them up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The large drawer was designed to hold my saw blades, and has a 1/2" thick BB ply bottom to accommodate the extra weight. The drawer will store 11 saw blades. In addition, there is also space along the side of the blade compartment for my 8" dado set and my 8" box joint cutter set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the matching space on the right side of the saw cabinet, I designed a small cabinet with a drawer mounted on the same full extension ball bearing slides with overtravel. Construction of this cabinet was the same as for the cabinet on the left side of the mobile base. The space above this cabinet is taken up by the motor cover. Tho small, this drawer will still be useful for storing miscellaneous accessories and tooling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As mentioned earlier, I designed the new mobile base with a deep drawer in its front panel. This drawer is about 20" deep and is mounted on full extension ball bearing slides. The large size of this drawer will accommodate storage of bulky items like my Delta Tenoning Jig, Zero Clearance Inserts, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, that's it for the on-board storage provisions. Thanks for coming along - but there is much more to come…............


Aha-- the mysterious moving Tilt Handwheel….......... Sorry folks, but that's a secret that will have to wait….......  Stay tuned….............it's on the agenda. In the meantime, how would you do it? There are several possibilities, some of which have been discussed here on LJ…...........

Similarly, we can't post a finished project picture yet…............That would be like reading the last page of a mystery novel…...................!!

But in the meantime, I wish you all a blessed Christmas and a Happy New Year.


----------



## jaydubya

paulnwa said:


> *On-Board Storage *
> 
> My present shop is very small - approximately 9 1/2 ft. x 20 ft. With tools along both long walls, it is more like a woodworking corridor…..........  It does take some planning of operating sequences! Needless to say, I don't whack up any 4' x 8' sheet goods - that's what my sawhorses and Skilsaw out in the carport are for! However, I am thankful to have even a small shop space to putter in, and most of my projects will be small items.
> 
> That said, real estate in my shop is a very precious commodity. Consequently, I designed the new mobile base for this *Model R4511* with provisions to add modular storage cabinets.
> 
> The left side of this saw table extends about 12 inches beyond the cabinet. As designed, the only residents of this space were the Tilt Handwheel and the fence storage brackets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the best use of this space, I was willing to give up the fence storage brackets and try to figure out some way to relocate the Tilt Handwheel. So I designed a five-drawer cabinet to fit this space under the table extension and between the caster outriggers on the mobile base. Cabinet construction was mostly Baltic Birch plywood, with various other varieties used in less visible places. Visible edges on the front of the cabinet were faced with 1/2" poplar. The 1/2" back panel of the cabinet was secured to the saw cabinet with screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of the drawers are 10 1/2" deep with 1/2" Baltic Birch frames and most have 5mm Birch plywood underlayment bottoms. The drawer sides are dadoed into the drawer fronts, which, I discovered later, made them much harder to get aligned with one another on installation. If I were doing it again, I would make separate drawer fronts. All drawers are mounted on ball bearing full extension slides with 1" overtravel. I found a lot of these slides for $4/pair, so I couldn't pass them up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The large drawer was designed to hold my saw blades, and has a 1/2" thick BB ply bottom to accommodate the extra weight. The drawer will store 11 saw blades. In addition, there is also space along the side of the blade compartment for my 8" dado set and my 8" box joint cutter set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the matching space on the right side of the saw cabinet, I designed a small cabinet with a drawer mounted on the same full extension ball bearing slides with overtravel. Construction of this cabinet was the same as for the cabinet on the left side of the mobile base. The space above this cabinet is taken up by the motor cover. Tho small, this drawer will still be useful for storing miscellaneous accessories and tooling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As mentioned earlier, I designed the new mobile base with a deep drawer in its front panel. This drawer is about 20" deep and is mounted on full extension ball bearing slides. The large size of this drawer will accommodate storage of bulky items like my Delta Tenoning Jig, Zero Clearance Inserts, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, that's it for the on-board storage provisions. Thanks for coming along - but there is much more to come…............


BOOOOO….. i just want a pic of the saw on the mobile base.


----------



## paulnwa

*Upgraded Rip Fence*

For those who don't have the *Ridgid Model R4511* or have never seen one, the stock fence is a T-square type - sort of a mini-Biesemeyer configuration, very loosely speaking. This configuration is somewhat similar to the *Delta T-2*, which a number of folks have purchased to replace the stock fence on this saw. It has a square tube front rail, bolted to a formed steel angle which is screwed to the front of the granite table top. For ease of shipping, the front rail is split in two pieces, with a plastic coupler fitting between the two halves. Like the *Biesemeyer*, the fence body straddles the rail and a cam lock mechanism pulls the body against the steel tube rail. This mechanism seems to lock the fence position quite well. The fence itself is a 2" square steel tube, which has a "hook" fitting on the rear end that catches underneath the rear angle rail.










There have been quite a number of folks who have found the original rip fence on the *Model R4511* to meet their needs and expectations very well. And of course there have been a fair number of folks who have had difficulties with the fence - issues related to the two piece front rail, alignment front to back, excessive height off the table, etc. I didn't have any major issues with the fence except the excessive height off the table, altho I think the 2" square tube is too small to be useful for a lot of ripping applications on thicker/longer stock. In addition, I could not get used to the debris-catching space between the front rail tube and the rail support angle - it seemed like I was always losing a pencil in that space and it was always full of sawdust!

My biggest problem with the original fence was a historical one! I had been using a *Delta Unifence* for the last 20 years or so, and I just couldn't get comfortable using a difference fence. In addition to the "perceived deficiencies" mentioned above, I missed some of the features of the *Unifence* - especially the unique feature of the *Unifence* which allows the fence extrusion to be retracted to a position in front of the blade so it can be used as a stop block for uniform length cross cuts.

The *Delta Unifence* I purchased for use on the *Model R4511* had a 30" rail, allowing a maximum cut of 30" to the right of the blade and 9" to the left. The total length of the front rail was about 60". Unfortunately, since I purchased the one for this project, it seems like the *Unifence* is either no longer made or is in very short supply. I suspect that since *Delta* bought *Biesemeyer*, they would rather sell only the Bies. - which is indeed an excellent fence, as many of you can probably attest.

The *Unifence* is a three-piece rip fence - an extruded aluminum front rail, a machined cast aluminum body, and an extruded "L"-shaped aluminum fence. The fence body is supported by the front rail, and a nylon tipped "foot" that rests on the table top - there is no attachment to the rear rail. A steel bar running in a tee slot in the front of the rail is cam locked to the face of rail to lock the fence position. The fence extrusion can be positioned on either side of the fence body, allowing left-of-blade cutting.

The fence extrusion can be mounted to the body in two ways. To accommodate this feature, two index lines are provided on the clear plastic scale cursor, with an icon to show which one applies -therefore, it is possible to read the wrong cursor line if one isn't paying attention…... :-( *DAMHIKT*...........!!The following photo shows the fence extrusion in the *Low Fence Mode*, (my favorite) providing a 1/2" high fence surface and allowing space for hand holding the workpiece without obstruction from the higher part of the fence.










This view shows the fence positioned in the *High Fence Mode* providing a 3 1/2" fence face.










The addition of an *After Market Auxiliary Fence* extrusion allows the use of feather boards or other hold down devices. However, the use of such devices does require the fence extrusion to be clamped down to the table or rear rail, which is easily accomplished.










Mounting of the *Unifence* proved to be challenging. The *Unifence* was designed to be attached to the front face of a cast iron table, which typically has a flange around the edges of the table. Bolts with heads inside the flange and nuts inside integral tee slots in the back face of the fence extrusion are used to secure the fence to the table. However, the *Model R4511* has a solid granite table with no edge flanges. So I had to dream up an alternate mounting method.

This installation required the mounting of a new steel rail support angle to the front edge of the table, using the original hole pattern, which I transferred from the original fence rail - the cheapo transfer punch set from Harbor Freight worked like a champ for this application. I used 1/8" x 2" x 2" angle stock from Home Depot. In retrospect, I wish I had used 3/16" or even 1/4" thick stock, which would have made it more rigid. The thinner stock is adequate, however - sometimes bigger* is *better! In addition, I replaced the stock rear fence support angle with a 1/8" x 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" steel angle I had lying around the shop to provide support for a right hand table extension to fill the space between the fence rails outboard of the granite table.

To accommodate the radius between the rail angle legs, I fabricated a maple filler. The filler was attached to the rail extrusion with 1/4" machine screws and either speed nuts and hex nuts. The speed nuts were used to accommodate the large upper tee slot, which was designed for 3/8" hex nuts in a normal installation. I didn't have room for the large heads of 3/8" FH machine screws in the face of the filler.










This view shows the rail support angle, filler, and rail extrusion installed on the front of the granite table. Note that there is no channel between the table and the fence rail to collect debris - or lose pencils…. 










The *Unifence* rail extrusion was attached with 1/4" machine screws tapped into the bottom surface of the fence rail, as shown in this view. Altho the fence rail extending beyond the edge of the right hand granite table extension was unsupported, it is so rigid as to not pose a problem.










Since installing the *Unifence*, I have felt much more at home using the saw-kinda like putting on an old pair of slippers…........ 

Well, that's about it for this chapter. Stay tuned, there is lots more to come….....................


----------



## new2wood

paulnwa said:


> *Upgraded Rip Fence*
> 
> For those who don't have the *Ridgid Model R4511* or have never seen one, the stock fence is a T-square type - sort of a mini-Biesemeyer configuration, very loosely speaking. This configuration is somewhat similar to the *Delta T-2*, which a number of folks have purchased to replace the stock fence on this saw. It has a square tube front rail, bolted to a formed steel angle which is screwed to the front of the granite table top. For ease of shipping, the front rail is split in two pieces, with a plastic coupler fitting between the two halves. Like the *Biesemeyer*, the fence body straddles the rail and a cam lock mechanism pulls the body against the steel tube rail. This mechanism seems to lock the fence position quite well. The fence itself is a 2" square steel tube, which has a "hook" fitting on the rear end that catches underneath the rear angle rail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There have been quite a number of folks who have found the original rip fence on the *Model R4511* to meet their needs and expectations very well. And of course there have been a fair number of folks who have had difficulties with the fence - issues related to the two piece front rail, alignment front to back, excessive height off the table, etc. I didn't have any major issues with the fence except the excessive height off the table, altho I think the 2" square tube is too small to be useful for a lot of ripping applications on thicker/longer stock. In addition, I could not get used to the debris-catching space between the front rail tube and the rail support angle - it seemed like I was always losing a pencil in that space and it was always full of sawdust!
> 
> My biggest problem with the original fence was a historical one! I had been using a *Delta Unifence* for the last 20 years or so, and I just couldn't get comfortable using a difference fence. In addition to the "perceived deficiencies" mentioned above, I missed some of the features of the *Unifence* - especially the unique feature of the *Unifence* which allows the fence extrusion to be retracted to a position in front of the blade so it can be used as a stop block for uniform length cross cuts.
> 
> The *Delta Unifence* I purchased for use on the *Model R4511* had a 30" rail, allowing a maximum cut of 30" to the right of the blade and 9" to the left. The total length of the front rail was about 60". Unfortunately, since I purchased the one for this project, it seems like the *Unifence* is either no longer made or is in very short supply. I suspect that since *Delta* bought *Biesemeyer*, they would rather sell only the Bies. - which is indeed an excellent fence, as many of you can probably attest.
> 
> The *Unifence* is a three-piece rip fence - an extruded aluminum front rail, a machined cast aluminum body, and an extruded "L"-shaped aluminum fence. The fence body is supported by the front rail, and a nylon tipped "foot" that rests on the table top - there is no attachment to the rear rail. A steel bar running in a tee slot in the front of the rail is cam locked to the face of rail to lock the fence position. The fence extrusion can be positioned on either side of the fence body, allowing left-of-blade cutting.
> 
> The fence extrusion can be mounted to the body in two ways. To accommodate this feature, two index lines are provided on the clear plastic scale cursor, with an icon to show which one applies -therefore, it is possible to read the wrong cursor line if one isn't paying attention…... :-( *DAMHIKT*...........!!The following photo shows the fence extrusion in the *Low Fence Mode*, (my favorite) providing a 1/2" high fence surface and allowing space for hand holding the workpiece without obstruction from the higher part of the fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This view shows the fence positioned in the *High Fence Mode* providing a 3 1/2" fence face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The addition of an *After Market Auxiliary Fence* extrusion allows the use of feather boards or other hold down devices. However, the use of such devices does require the fence extrusion to be clamped down to the table or rear rail, which is easily accomplished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mounting of the *Unifence* proved to be challenging. The *Unifence* was designed to be attached to the front face of a cast iron table, which typically has a flange around the edges of the table. Bolts with heads inside the flange and nuts inside integral tee slots in the back face of the fence extrusion are used to secure the fence to the table. However, the *Model R4511* has a solid granite table with no edge flanges. So I had to dream up an alternate mounting method.
> 
> This installation required the mounting of a new steel rail support angle to the front edge of the table, using the original hole pattern, which I transferred from the original fence rail - the cheapo transfer punch set from Harbor Freight worked like a champ for this application. I used 1/8" x 2" x 2" angle stock from Home Depot. In retrospect, I wish I had used 3/16" or even 1/4" thick stock, which would have made it more rigid. The thinner stock is adequate, however - sometimes bigger* is *better! In addition, I replaced the stock rear fence support angle with a 1/8" x 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" steel angle I had lying around the shop to provide support for a right hand table extension to fill the space between the fence rails outboard of the granite table.
> 
> To accommodate the radius between the rail angle legs, I fabricated a maple filler. The filler was attached to the rail extrusion with 1/4" machine screws and either speed nuts and hex nuts. The speed nuts were used to accommodate the large upper tee slot, which was designed for 3/8" hex nuts in a normal installation. I didn't have room for the large heads of 3/8" FH machine screws in the face of the filler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This view shows the rail support angle, filler, and rail extrusion installed on the front of the granite table. Note that there is no channel between the table and the fence rail to collect debris - or lose pencils….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Unifence* rail extrusion was attached with 1/4" machine screws tapped into the bottom surface of the fence rail, as shown in this view. Altho the fence rail extending beyond the edge of the right hand granite table extension was unsupported, it is so rigid as to not pose a problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since installing the *Unifence*, I have felt much more at home using the saw-kinda like putting on an old pair of slippers…........
> 
> Well, that's about it for this chapter. Stay tuned, there is lots more to come….....................


Nice upgrade. I have the 4511 and put an Incra fence on. Gotta love craigslist.


----------



## paulnwa

paulnwa said:


> *Upgraded Rip Fence*
> 
> For those who don't have the *Ridgid Model R4511* or have never seen one, the stock fence is a T-square type - sort of a mini-Biesemeyer configuration, very loosely speaking. This configuration is somewhat similar to the *Delta T-2*, which a number of folks have purchased to replace the stock fence on this saw. It has a square tube front rail, bolted to a formed steel angle which is screwed to the front of the granite table top. For ease of shipping, the front rail is split in two pieces, with a plastic coupler fitting between the two halves. Like the *Biesemeyer*, the fence body straddles the rail and a cam lock mechanism pulls the body against the steel tube rail. This mechanism seems to lock the fence position quite well. The fence itself is a 2" square steel tube, which has a "hook" fitting on the rear end that catches underneath the rear angle rail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There have been quite a number of folks who have found the original rip fence on the *Model R4511* to meet their needs and expectations very well. And of course there have been a fair number of folks who have had difficulties with the fence - issues related to the two piece front rail, alignment front to back, excessive height off the table, etc. I didn't have any major issues with the fence except the excessive height off the table, altho I think the 2" square tube is too small to be useful for a lot of ripping applications on thicker/longer stock. In addition, I could not get used to the debris-catching space between the front rail tube and the rail support angle - it seemed like I was always losing a pencil in that space and it was always full of sawdust!
> 
> My biggest problem with the original fence was a historical one! I had been using a *Delta Unifence* for the last 20 years or so, and I just couldn't get comfortable using a difference fence. In addition to the "perceived deficiencies" mentioned above, I missed some of the features of the *Unifence* - especially the unique feature of the *Unifence* which allows the fence extrusion to be retracted to a position in front of the blade so it can be used as a stop block for uniform length cross cuts.
> 
> The *Delta Unifence* I purchased for use on the *Model R4511* had a 30" rail, allowing a maximum cut of 30" to the right of the blade and 9" to the left. The total length of the front rail was about 60". Unfortunately, since I purchased the one for this project, it seems like the *Unifence* is either no longer made or is in very short supply. I suspect that since *Delta* bought *Biesemeyer*, they would rather sell only the Bies. - which is indeed an excellent fence, as many of you can probably attest.
> 
> The *Unifence* is a three-piece rip fence - an extruded aluminum front rail, a machined cast aluminum body, and an extruded "L"-shaped aluminum fence. The fence body is supported by the front rail, and a nylon tipped "foot" that rests on the table top - there is no attachment to the rear rail. A steel bar running in a tee slot in the front of the rail is cam locked to the face of rail to lock the fence position. The fence extrusion can be positioned on either side of the fence body, allowing left-of-blade cutting.
> 
> The fence extrusion can be mounted to the body in two ways. To accommodate this feature, two index lines are provided on the clear plastic scale cursor, with an icon to show which one applies -therefore, it is possible to read the wrong cursor line if one isn't paying attention…... :-( *DAMHIKT*...........!!The following photo shows the fence extrusion in the *Low Fence Mode*, (my favorite) providing a 1/2" high fence surface and allowing space for hand holding the workpiece without obstruction from the higher part of the fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This view shows the fence positioned in the *High Fence Mode* providing a 3 1/2" fence face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The addition of an *After Market Auxiliary Fence* extrusion allows the use of feather boards or other hold down devices. However, the use of such devices does require the fence extrusion to be clamped down to the table or rear rail, which is easily accomplished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mounting of the *Unifence* proved to be challenging. The *Unifence* was designed to be attached to the front face of a cast iron table, which typically has a flange around the edges of the table. Bolts with heads inside the flange and nuts inside integral tee slots in the back face of the fence extrusion are used to secure the fence to the table. However, the *Model R4511* has a solid granite table with no edge flanges. So I had to dream up an alternate mounting method.
> 
> This installation required the mounting of a new steel rail support angle to the front edge of the table, using the original hole pattern, which I transferred from the original fence rail - the cheapo transfer punch set from Harbor Freight worked like a champ for this application. I used 1/8" x 2" x 2" angle stock from Home Depot. In retrospect, I wish I had used 3/16" or even 1/4" thick stock, which would have made it more rigid. The thinner stock is adequate, however - sometimes bigger* is *better! In addition, I replaced the stock rear fence support angle with a 1/8" x 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" steel angle I had lying around the shop to provide support for a right hand table extension to fill the space between the fence rails outboard of the granite table.
> 
> To accommodate the radius between the rail angle legs, I fabricated a maple filler. The filler was attached to the rail extrusion with 1/4" machine screws and either speed nuts and hex nuts. The speed nuts were used to accommodate the large upper tee slot, which was designed for 3/8" hex nuts in a normal installation. I didn't have room for the large heads of 3/8" FH machine screws in the face of the filler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This view shows the rail support angle, filler, and rail extrusion installed on the front of the granite table. Note that there is no channel between the table and the fence rail to collect debris - or lose pencils….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Unifence* rail extrusion was attached with 1/4" machine screws tapped into the bottom surface of the fence rail, as shown in this view. Altho the fence rail extending beyond the edge of the right hand granite table extension was unsupported, it is so rigid as to not pose a problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since installing the *Unifence*, I have felt much more at home using the saw-kinda like putting on an old pair of slippers…........
> 
> Well, that's about it for this chapter. Stay tuned, there is lots more to come….....................


Thanks. I have heard that the Incra fence is a dandy. What a jump from the OEM Ridgid fence, huh! Good show!


----------



## b2rtch

paulnwa said:


> *Upgraded Rip Fence*
> 
> For those who don't have the *Ridgid Model R4511* or have never seen one, the stock fence is a T-square type - sort of a mini-Biesemeyer configuration, very loosely speaking. This configuration is somewhat similar to the *Delta T-2*, which a number of folks have purchased to replace the stock fence on this saw. It has a square tube front rail, bolted to a formed steel angle which is screwed to the front of the granite table top. For ease of shipping, the front rail is split in two pieces, with a plastic coupler fitting between the two halves. Like the *Biesemeyer*, the fence body straddles the rail and a cam lock mechanism pulls the body against the steel tube rail. This mechanism seems to lock the fence position quite well. The fence itself is a 2" square steel tube, which has a "hook" fitting on the rear end that catches underneath the rear angle rail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There have been quite a number of folks who have found the original rip fence on the *Model R4511* to meet their needs and expectations very well. And of course there have been a fair number of folks who have had difficulties with the fence - issues related to the two piece front rail, alignment front to back, excessive height off the table, etc. I didn't have any major issues with the fence except the excessive height off the table, altho I think the 2" square tube is too small to be useful for a lot of ripping applications on thicker/longer stock. In addition, I could not get used to the debris-catching space between the front rail tube and the rail support angle - it seemed like I was always losing a pencil in that space and it was always full of sawdust!
> 
> My biggest problem with the original fence was a historical one! I had been using a *Delta Unifence* for the last 20 years or so, and I just couldn't get comfortable using a difference fence. In addition to the "perceived deficiencies" mentioned above, I missed some of the features of the *Unifence* - especially the unique feature of the *Unifence* which allows the fence extrusion to be retracted to a position in front of the blade so it can be used as a stop block for uniform length cross cuts.
> 
> The *Delta Unifence* I purchased for use on the *Model R4511* had a 30" rail, allowing a maximum cut of 30" to the right of the blade and 9" to the left. The total length of the front rail was about 60". Unfortunately, since I purchased the one for this project, it seems like the *Unifence* is either no longer made or is in very short supply. I suspect that since *Delta* bought *Biesemeyer*, they would rather sell only the Bies. - which is indeed an excellent fence, as many of you can probably attest.
> 
> The *Unifence* is a three-piece rip fence - an extruded aluminum front rail, a machined cast aluminum body, and an extruded "L"-shaped aluminum fence. The fence body is supported by the front rail, and a nylon tipped "foot" that rests on the table top - there is no attachment to the rear rail. A steel bar running in a tee slot in the front of the rail is cam locked to the face of rail to lock the fence position. The fence extrusion can be positioned on either side of the fence body, allowing left-of-blade cutting.
> 
> The fence extrusion can be mounted to the body in two ways. To accommodate this feature, two index lines are provided on the clear plastic scale cursor, with an icon to show which one applies -therefore, it is possible to read the wrong cursor line if one isn't paying attention…... :-( *DAMHIKT*...........!!The following photo shows the fence extrusion in the *Low Fence Mode*, (my favorite) providing a 1/2" high fence surface and allowing space for hand holding the workpiece without obstruction from the higher part of the fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This view shows the fence positioned in the *High Fence Mode* providing a 3 1/2" fence face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The addition of an *After Market Auxiliary Fence* extrusion allows the use of feather boards or other hold down devices. However, the use of such devices does require the fence extrusion to be clamped down to the table or rear rail, which is easily accomplished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mounting of the *Unifence* proved to be challenging. The *Unifence* was designed to be attached to the front face of a cast iron table, which typically has a flange around the edges of the table. Bolts with heads inside the flange and nuts inside integral tee slots in the back face of the fence extrusion are used to secure the fence to the table. However, the *Model R4511* has a solid granite table with no edge flanges. So I had to dream up an alternate mounting method.
> 
> This installation required the mounting of a new steel rail support angle to the front edge of the table, using the original hole pattern, which I transferred from the original fence rail - the cheapo transfer punch set from Harbor Freight worked like a champ for this application. I used 1/8" x 2" x 2" angle stock from Home Depot. In retrospect, I wish I had used 3/16" or even 1/4" thick stock, which would have made it more rigid. The thinner stock is adequate, however - sometimes bigger* is *better! In addition, I replaced the stock rear fence support angle with a 1/8" x 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" steel angle I had lying around the shop to provide support for a right hand table extension to fill the space between the fence rails outboard of the granite table.
> 
> To accommodate the radius between the rail angle legs, I fabricated a maple filler. The filler was attached to the rail extrusion with 1/4" machine screws and either speed nuts and hex nuts. The speed nuts were used to accommodate the large upper tee slot, which was designed for 3/8" hex nuts in a normal installation. I didn't have room for the large heads of 3/8" FH machine screws in the face of the filler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This view shows the rail support angle, filler, and rail extrusion installed on the front of the granite table. Note that there is no channel between the table and the fence rail to collect debris - or lose pencils….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Unifence* rail extrusion was attached with 1/4" machine screws tapped into the bottom surface of the fence rail, as shown in this view. Altho the fence rail extending beyond the edge of the right hand granite table extension was unsupported, it is so rigid as to not pose a problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since installing the *Unifence*, I have felt much more at home using the saw-kinda like putting on an old pair of slippers…........
> 
> Well, that's about it for this chapter. Stay tuned, there is lots more to come….....................


Paul,
Do you still have your R4511?
I had one . 
I sold it for about $200.00 than I paid for new.
I bought a used Unisaw for $400.00 and I rebuilt it.


----------



## paulnwa

paulnwa said:


> *Upgraded Rip Fence*
> 
> For those who don't have the *Ridgid Model R4511* or have never seen one, the stock fence is a T-square type - sort of a mini-Biesemeyer configuration, very loosely speaking. This configuration is somewhat similar to the *Delta T-2*, which a number of folks have purchased to replace the stock fence on this saw. It has a square tube front rail, bolted to a formed steel angle which is screwed to the front of the granite table top. For ease of shipping, the front rail is split in two pieces, with a plastic coupler fitting between the two halves. Like the *Biesemeyer*, the fence body straddles the rail and a cam lock mechanism pulls the body against the steel tube rail. This mechanism seems to lock the fence position quite well. The fence itself is a 2" square steel tube, which has a "hook" fitting on the rear end that catches underneath the rear angle rail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There have been quite a number of folks who have found the original rip fence on the *Model R4511* to meet their needs and expectations very well. And of course there have been a fair number of folks who have had difficulties with the fence - issues related to the two piece front rail, alignment front to back, excessive height off the table, etc. I didn't have any major issues with the fence except the excessive height off the table, altho I think the 2" square tube is too small to be useful for a lot of ripping applications on thicker/longer stock. In addition, I could not get used to the debris-catching space between the front rail tube and the rail support angle - it seemed like I was always losing a pencil in that space and it was always full of sawdust!
> 
> My biggest problem with the original fence was a historical one! I had been using a *Delta Unifence* for the last 20 years or so, and I just couldn't get comfortable using a difference fence. In addition to the "perceived deficiencies" mentioned above, I missed some of the features of the *Unifence* - especially the unique feature of the *Unifence* which allows the fence extrusion to be retracted to a position in front of the blade so it can be used as a stop block for uniform length cross cuts.
> 
> The *Delta Unifence* I purchased for use on the *Model R4511* had a 30" rail, allowing a maximum cut of 30" to the right of the blade and 9" to the left. The total length of the front rail was about 60". Unfortunately, since I purchased the one for this project, it seems like the *Unifence* is either no longer made or is in very short supply. I suspect that since *Delta* bought *Biesemeyer*, they would rather sell only the Bies. - which is indeed an excellent fence, as many of you can probably attest.
> 
> The *Unifence* is a three-piece rip fence - an extruded aluminum front rail, a machined cast aluminum body, and an extruded "L"-shaped aluminum fence. The fence body is supported by the front rail, and a nylon tipped "foot" that rests on the table top - there is no attachment to the rear rail. A steel bar running in a tee slot in the front of the rail is cam locked to the face of rail to lock the fence position. The fence extrusion can be positioned on either side of the fence body, allowing left-of-blade cutting.
> 
> The fence extrusion can be mounted to the body in two ways. To accommodate this feature, two index lines are provided on the clear plastic scale cursor, with an icon to show which one applies -therefore, it is possible to read the wrong cursor line if one isn't paying attention…... :-( *DAMHIKT*...........!!The following photo shows the fence extrusion in the *Low Fence Mode*, (my favorite) providing a 1/2" high fence surface and allowing space for hand holding the workpiece without obstruction from the higher part of the fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This view shows the fence positioned in the *High Fence Mode* providing a 3 1/2" fence face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The addition of an *After Market Auxiliary Fence* extrusion allows the use of feather boards or other hold down devices. However, the use of such devices does require the fence extrusion to be clamped down to the table or rear rail, which is easily accomplished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mounting of the *Unifence* proved to be challenging. The *Unifence* was designed to be attached to the front face of a cast iron table, which typically has a flange around the edges of the table. Bolts with heads inside the flange and nuts inside integral tee slots in the back face of the fence extrusion are used to secure the fence to the table. However, the *Model R4511* has a solid granite table with no edge flanges. So I had to dream up an alternate mounting method.
> 
> This installation required the mounting of a new steel rail support angle to the front edge of the table, using the original hole pattern, which I transferred from the original fence rail - the cheapo transfer punch set from Harbor Freight worked like a champ for this application. I used 1/8" x 2" x 2" angle stock from Home Depot. In retrospect, I wish I had used 3/16" or even 1/4" thick stock, which would have made it more rigid. The thinner stock is adequate, however - sometimes bigger* is *better! In addition, I replaced the stock rear fence support angle with a 1/8" x 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" steel angle I had lying around the shop to provide support for a right hand table extension to fill the space between the fence rails outboard of the granite table.
> 
> To accommodate the radius between the rail angle legs, I fabricated a maple filler. The filler was attached to the rail extrusion with 1/4" machine screws and either speed nuts and hex nuts. The speed nuts were used to accommodate the large upper tee slot, which was designed for 3/8" hex nuts in a normal installation. I didn't have room for the large heads of 3/8" FH machine screws in the face of the filler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This view shows the rail support angle, filler, and rail extrusion installed on the front of the granite table. Note that there is no channel between the table and the fence rail to collect debris - or lose pencils….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Unifence* rail extrusion was attached with 1/4" machine screws tapped into the bottom surface of the fence rail, as shown in this view. Altho the fence rail extending beyond the edge of the right hand granite table extension was unsupported, it is so rigid as to not pose a problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since installing the *Unifence*, I have felt much more at home using the saw-kinda like putting on an old pair of slippers…........
> 
> Well, that's about it for this chapter. Stay tuned, there is lots more to come….....................


Hi Bert,
Yes, I still have the R4511. So far, it meets my needs very well. I am not overly impressed with the granite top, but it does solve the rust problem.
The Unisaw is the old standby-that is a good price you paid for it. I don't have room in my shop for one. In my old shop I had a General Model 350, which was the Canadian equivalent of the Unisaw. That was a great saw.


----------



## b2rtch

paulnwa said:


> *Upgraded Rip Fence*
> 
> For those who don't have the *Ridgid Model R4511* or have never seen one, the stock fence is a T-square type - sort of a mini-Biesemeyer configuration, very loosely speaking. This configuration is somewhat similar to the *Delta T-2*, which a number of folks have purchased to replace the stock fence on this saw. It has a square tube front rail, bolted to a formed steel angle which is screwed to the front of the granite table top. For ease of shipping, the front rail is split in two pieces, with a plastic coupler fitting between the two halves. Like the *Biesemeyer*, the fence body straddles the rail and a cam lock mechanism pulls the body against the steel tube rail. This mechanism seems to lock the fence position quite well. The fence itself is a 2" square steel tube, which has a "hook" fitting on the rear end that catches underneath the rear angle rail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There have been quite a number of folks who have found the original rip fence on the *Model R4511* to meet their needs and expectations very well. And of course there have been a fair number of folks who have had difficulties with the fence - issues related to the two piece front rail, alignment front to back, excessive height off the table, etc. I didn't have any major issues with the fence except the excessive height off the table, altho I think the 2" square tube is too small to be useful for a lot of ripping applications on thicker/longer stock. In addition, I could not get used to the debris-catching space between the front rail tube and the rail support angle - it seemed like I was always losing a pencil in that space and it was always full of sawdust!
> 
> My biggest problem with the original fence was a historical one! I had been using a *Delta Unifence* for the last 20 years or so, and I just couldn't get comfortable using a difference fence. In addition to the "perceived deficiencies" mentioned above, I missed some of the features of the *Unifence* - especially the unique feature of the *Unifence* which allows the fence extrusion to be retracted to a position in front of the blade so it can be used as a stop block for uniform length cross cuts.
> 
> The *Delta Unifence* I purchased for use on the *Model R4511* had a 30" rail, allowing a maximum cut of 30" to the right of the blade and 9" to the left. The total length of the front rail was about 60". Unfortunately, since I purchased the one for this project, it seems like the *Unifence* is either no longer made or is in very short supply. I suspect that since *Delta* bought *Biesemeyer*, they would rather sell only the Bies. - which is indeed an excellent fence, as many of you can probably attest.
> 
> The *Unifence* is a three-piece rip fence - an extruded aluminum front rail, a machined cast aluminum body, and an extruded "L"-shaped aluminum fence. The fence body is supported by the front rail, and a nylon tipped "foot" that rests on the table top - there is no attachment to the rear rail. A steel bar running in a tee slot in the front of the rail is cam locked to the face of rail to lock the fence position. The fence extrusion can be positioned on either side of the fence body, allowing left-of-blade cutting.
> 
> The fence extrusion can be mounted to the body in two ways. To accommodate this feature, two index lines are provided on the clear plastic scale cursor, with an icon to show which one applies -therefore, it is possible to read the wrong cursor line if one isn't paying attention…... :-( *DAMHIKT*...........!!The following photo shows the fence extrusion in the *Low Fence Mode*, (my favorite) providing a 1/2" high fence surface and allowing space for hand holding the workpiece without obstruction from the higher part of the fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This view shows the fence positioned in the *High Fence Mode* providing a 3 1/2" fence face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The addition of an *After Market Auxiliary Fence* extrusion allows the use of feather boards or other hold down devices. However, the use of such devices does require the fence extrusion to be clamped down to the table or rear rail, which is easily accomplished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mounting of the *Unifence* proved to be challenging. The *Unifence* was designed to be attached to the front face of a cast iron table, which typically has a flange around the edges of the table. Bolts with heads inside the flange and nuts inside integral tee slots in the back face of the fence extrusion are used to secure the fence to the table. However, the *Model R4511* has a solid granite table with no edge flanges. So I had to dream up an alternate mounting method.
> 
> This installation required the mounting of a new steel rail support angle to the front edge of the table, using the original hole pattern, which I transferred from the original fence rail - the cheapo transfer punch set from Harbor Freight worked like a champ for this application. I used 1/8" x 2" x 2" angle stock from Home Depot. In retrospect, I wish I had used 3/16" or even 1/4" thick stock, which would have made it more rigid. The thinner stock is adequate, however - sometimes bigger* is *better! In addition, I replaced the stock rear fence support angle with a 1/8" x 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" steel angle I had lying around the shop to provide support for a right hand table extension to fill the space between the fence rails outboard of the granite table.
> 
> To accommodate the radius between the rail angle legs, I fabricated a maple filler. The filler was attached to the rail extrusion with 1/4" machine screws and either speed nuts and hex nuts. The speed nuts were used to accommodate the large upper tee slot, which was designed for 3/8" hex nuts in a normal installation. I didn't have room for the large heads of 3/8" FH machine screws in the face of the filler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This view shows the rail support angle, filler, and rail extrusion installed on the front of the granite table. Note that there is no channel between the table and the fence rail to collect debris - or lose pencils….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Unifence* rail extrusion was attached with 1/4" machine screws tapped into the bottom surface of the fence rail, as shown in this view. Altho the fence rail extending beyond the edge of the right hand granite table extension was unsupported, it is so rigid as to not pose a problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since installing the *Unifence*, I have felt much more at home using the saw-kinda like putting on an old pair of slippers…........
> 
> Well, that's about it for this chapter. Stay tuned, there is lots more to come….....................


http://lumberjocks.com/b2rtch/blog/29941

http://lumberjocks.com/b2rtch/blog/31439


----------



## paulnwa

paulnwa said:


> *Upgraded Rip Fence*
> 
> For those who don't have the *Ridgid Model R4511* or have never seen one, the stock fence is a T-square type - sort of a mini-Biesemeyer configuration, very loosely speaking. This configuration is somewhat similar to the *Delta T-2*, which a number of folks have purchased to replace the stock fence on this saw. It has a square tube front rail, bolted to a formed steel angle which is screwed to the front of the granite table top. For ease of shipping, the front rail is split in two pieces, with a plastic coupler fitting between the two halves. Like the *Biesemeyer*, the fence body straddles the rail and a cam lock mechanism pulls the body against the steel tube rail. This mechanism seems to lock the fence position quite well. The fence itself is a 2" square steel tube, which has a "hook" fitting on the rear end that catches underneath the rear angle rail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There have been quite a number of folks who have found the original rip fence on the *Model R4511* to meet their needs and expectations very well. And of course there have been a fair number of folks who have had difficulties with the fence - issues related to the two piece front rail, alignment front to back, excessive height off the table, etc. I didn't have any major issues with the fence except the excessive height off the table, altho I think the 2" square tube is too small to be useful for a lot of ripping applications on thicker/longer stock. In addition, I could not get used to the debris-catching space between the front rail tube and the rail support angle - it seemed like I was always losing a pencil in that space and it was always full of sawdust!
> 
> My biggest problem with the original fence was a historical one! I had been using a *Delta Unifence* for the last 20 years or so, and I just couldn't get comfortable using a difference fence. In addition to the "perceived deficiencies" mentioned above, I missed some of the features of the *Unifence* - especially the unique feature of the *Unifence* which allows the fence extrusion to be retracted to a position in front of the blade so it can be used as a stop block for uniform length cross cuts.
> 
> The *Delta Unifence* I purchased for use on the *Model R4511* had a 30" rail, allowing a maximum cut of 30" to the right of the blade and 9" to the left. The total length of the front rail was about 60". Unfortunately, since I purchased the one for this project, it seems like the *Unifence* is either no longer made or is in very short supply. I suspect that since *Delta* bought *Biesemeyer*, they would rather sell only the Bies. - which is indeed an excellent fence, as many of you can probably attest.
> 
> The *Unifence* is a three-piece rip fence - an extruded aluminum front rail, a machined cast aluminum body, and an extruded "L"-shaped aluminum fence. The fence body is supported by the front rail, and a nylon tipped "foot" that rests on the table top - there is no attachment to the rear rail. A steel bar running in a tee slot in the front of the rail is cam locked to the face of rail to lock the fence position. The fence extrusion can be positioned on either side of the fence body, allowing left-of-blade cutting.
> 
> The fence extrusion can be mounted to the body in two ways. To accommodate this feature, two index lines are provided on the clear plastic scale cursor, with an icon to show which one applies -therefore, it is possible to read the wrong cursor line if one isn't paying attention…... :-( *DAMHIKT*...........!!The following photo shows the fence extrusion in the *Low Fence Mode*, (my favorite) providing a 1/2" high fence surface and allowing space for hand holding the workpiece without obstruction from the higher part of the fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This view shows the fence positioned in the *High Fence Mode* providing a 3 1/2" fence face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The addition of an *After Market Auxiliary Fence* extrusion allows the use of feather boards or other hold down devices. However, the use of such devices does require the fence extrusion to be clamped down to the table or rear rail, which is easily accomplished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mounting of the *Unifence* proved to be challenging. The *Unifence* was designed to be attached to the front face of a cast iron table, which typically has a flange around the edges of the table. Bolts with heads inside the flange and nuts inside integral tee slots in the back face of the fence extrusion are used to secure the fence to the table. However, the *Model R4511* has a solid granite table with no edge flanges. So I had to dream up an alternate mounting method.
> 
> This installation required the mounting of a new steel rail support angle to the front edge of the table, using the original hole pattern, which I transferred from the original fence rail - the cheapo transfer punch set from Harbor Freight worked like a champ for this application. I used 1/8" x 2" x 2" angle stock from Home Depot. In retrospect, I wish I had used 3/16" or even 1/4" thick stock, which would have made it more rigid. The thinner stock is adequate, however - sometimes bigger* is *better! In addition, I replaced the stock rear fence support angle with a 1/8" x 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" steel angle I had lying around the shop to provide support for a right hand table extension to fill the space between the fence rails outboard of the granite table.
> 
> To accommodate the radius between the rail angle legs, I fabricated a maple filler. The filler was attached to the rail extrusion with 1/4" machine screws and either speed nuts and hex nuts. The speed nuts were used to accommodate the large upper tee slot, which was designed for 3/8" hex nuts in a normal installation. I didn't have room for the large heads of 3/8" FH machine screws in the face of the filler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This view shows the rail support angle, filler, and rail extrusion installed on the front of the granite table. Note that there is no channel between the table and the fence rail to collect debris - or lose pencils….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Unifence* rail extrusion was attached with 1/4" machine screws tapped into the bottom surface of the fence rail, as shown in this view. Altho the fence rail extending beyond the edge of the right hand granite table extension was unsupported, it is so rigid as to not pose a problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since installing the *Unifence*, I have felt much more at home using the saw-kinda like putting on an old pair of slippers…........
> 
> Well, that's about it for this chapter. Stay tuned, there is lots more to come….....................


You do very nice work, Bert. That is quite a shop you have there. Congratulations!


----------



## b2rtch

paulnwa said:


> *Upgraded Rip Fence*
> 
> For those who don't have the *Ridgid Model R4511* or have never seen one, the stock fence is a T-square type - sort of a mini-Biesemeyer configuration, very loosely speaking. This configuration is somewhat similar to the *Delta T-2*, which a number of folks have purchased to replace the stock fence on this saw. It has a square tube front rail, bolted to a formed steel angle which is screwed to the front of the granite table top. For ease of shipping, the front rail is split in two pieces, with a plastic coupler fitting between the two halves. Like the *Biesemeyer*, the fence body straddles the rail and a cam lock mechanism pulls the body against the steel tube rail. This mechanism seems to lock the fence position quite well. The fence itself is a 2" square steel tube, which has a "hook" fitting on the rear end that catches underneath the rear angle rail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There have been quite a number of folks who have found the original rip fence on the *Model R4511* to meet their needs and expectations very well. And of course there have been a fair number of folks who have had difficulties with the fence - issues related to the two piece front rail, alignment front to back, excessive height off the table, etc. I didn't have any major issues with the fence except the excessive height off the table, altho I think the 2" square tube is too small to be useful for a lot of ripping applications on thicker/longer stock. In addition, I could not get used to the debris-catching space between the front rail tube and the rail support angle - it seemed like I was always losing a pencil in that space and it was always full of sawdust!
> 
> My biggest problem with the original fence was a historical one! I had been using a *Delta Unifence* for the last 20 years or so, and I just couldn't get comfortable using a difference fence. In addition to the "perceived deficiencies" mentioned above, I missed some of the features of the *Unifence* - especially the unique feature of the *Unifence* which allows the fence extrusion to be retracted to a position in front of the blade so it can be used as a stop block for uniform length cross cuts.
> 
> The *Delta Unifence* I purchased for use on the *Model R4511* had a 30" rail, allowing a maximum cut of 30" to the right of the blade and 9" to the left. The total length of the front rail was about 60". Unfortunately, since I purchased the one for this project, it seems like the *Unifence* is either no longer made or is in very short supply. I suspect that since *Delta* bought *Biesemeyer*, they would rather sell only the Bies. - which is indeed an excellent fence, as many of you can probably attest.
> 
> The *Unifence* is a three-piece rip fence - an extruded aluminum front rail, a machined cast aluminum body, and an extruded "L"-shaped aluminum fence. The fence body is supported by the front rail, and a nylon tipped "foot" that rests on the table top - there is no attachment to the rear rail. A steel bar running in a tee slot in the front of the rail is cam locked to the face of rail to lock the fence position. The fence extrusion can be positioned on either side of the fence body, allowing left-of-blade cutting.
> 
> The fence extrusion can be mounted to the body in two ways. To accommodate this feature, two index lines are provided on the clear plastic scale cursor, with an icon to show which one applies -therefore, it is possible to read the wrong cursor line if one isn't paying attention…... :-( *DAMHIKT*...........!!The following photo shows the fence extrusion in the *Low Fence Mode*, (my favorite) providing a 1/2" high fence surface and allowing space for hand holding the workpiece without obstruction from the higher part of the fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This view shows the fence positioned in the *High Fence Mode* providing a 3 1/2" fence face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The addition of an *After Market Auxiliary Fence* extrusion allows the use of feather boards or other hold down devices. However, the use of such devices does require the fence extrusion to be clamped down to the table or rear rail, which is easily accomplished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mounting of the *Unifence* proved to be challenging. The *Unifence* was designed to be attached to the front face of a cast iron table, which typically has a flange around the edges of the table. Bolts with heads inside the flange and nuts inside integral tee slots in the back face of the fence extrusion are used to secure the fence to the table. However, the *Model R4511* has a solid granite table with no edge flanges. So I had to dream up an alternate mounting method.
> 
> This installation required the mounting of a new steel rail support angle to the front edge of the table, using the original hole pattern, which I transferred from the original fence rail - the cheapo transfer punch set from Harbor Freight worked like a champ for this application. I used 1/8" x 2" x 2" angle stock from Home Depot. In retrospect, I wish I had used 3/16" or even 1/4" thick stock, which would have made it more rigid. The thinner stock is adequate, however - sometimes bigger* is *better! In addition, I replaced the stock rear fence support angle with a 1/8" x 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" steel angle I had lying around the shop to provide support for a right hand table extension to fill the space between the fence rails outboard of the granite table.
> 
> To accommodate the radius between the rail angle legs, I fabricated a maple filler. The filler was attached to the rail extrusion with 1/4" machine screws and either speed nuts and hex nuts. The speed nuts were used to accommodate the large upper tee slot, which was designed for 3/8" hex nuts in a normal installation. I didn't have room for the large heads of 3/8" FH machine screws in the face of the filler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This view shows the rail support angle, filler, and rail extrusion installed on the front of the granite table. Note that there is no channel between the table and the fence rail to collect debris - or lose pencils….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Unifence* rail extrusion was attached with 1/4" machine screws tapped into the bottom surface of the fence rail, as shown in this view. Altho the fence rail extending beyond the edge of the right hand granite table extension was unsupported, it is so rigid as to not pose a problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since installing the *Unifence*, I have felt much more at home using the saw-kinda like putting on an old pair of slippers…........
> 
> Well, that's about it for this chapter. Stay tuned, there is lots more to come….....................


To repair/refurbish old equipment is what I like to do best more that to use it.


----------



## MrFid

paulnwa said:


> *Upgraded Rip Fence*
> 
> For those who don't have the *Ridgid Model R4511* or have never seen one, the stock fence is a T-square type - sort of a mini-Biesemeyer configuration, very loosely speaking. This configuration is somewhat similar to the *Delta T-2*, which a number of folks have purchased to replace the stock fence on this saw. It has a square tube front rail, bolted to a formed steel angle which is screwed to the front of the granite table top. For ease of shipping, the front rail is split in two pieces, with a plastic coupler fitting between the two halves. Like the *Biesemeyer*, the fence body straddles the rail and a cam lock mechanism pulls the body against the steel tube rail. This mechanism seems to lock the fence position quite well. The fence itself is a 2" square steel tube, which has a "hook" fitting on the rear end that catches underneath the rear angle rail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There have been quite a number of folks who have found the original rip fence on the *Model R4511* to meet their needs and expectations very well. And of course there have been a fair number of folks who have had difficulties with the fence - issues related to the two piece front rail, alignment front to back, excessive height off the table, etc. I didn't have any major issues with the fence except the excessive height off the table, altho I think the 2" square tube is too small to be useful for a lot of ripping applications on thicker/longer stock. In addition, I could not get used to the debris-catching space between the front rail tube and the rail support angle - it seemed like I was always losing a pencil in that space and it was always full of sawdust!
> 
> My biggest problem with the original fence was a historical one! I had been using a *Delta Unifence* for the last 20 years or so, and I just couldn't get comfortable using a difference fence. In addition to the "perceived deficiencies" mentioned above, I missed some of the features of the *Unifence* - especially the unique feature of the *Unifence* which allows the fence extrusion to be retracted to a position in front of the blade so it can be used as a stop block for uniform length cross cuts.
> 
> The *Delta Unifence* I purchased for use on the *Model R4511* had a 30" rail, allowing a maximum cut of 30" to the right of the blade and 9" to the left. The total length of the front rail was about 60". Unfortunately, since I purchased the one for this project, it seems like the *Unifence* is either no longer made or is in very short supply. I suspect that since *Delta* bought *Biesemeyer*, they would rather sell only the Bies. - which is indeed an excellent fence, as many of you can probably attest.
> 
> The *Unifence* is a three-piece rip fence - an extruded aluminum front rail, a machined cast aluminum body, and an extruded "L"-shaped aluminum fence. The fence body is supported by the front rail, and a nylon tipped "foot" that rests on the table top - there is no attachment to the rear rail. A steel bar running in a tee slot in the front of the rail is cam locked to the face of rail to lock the fence position. The fence extrusion can be positioned on either side of the fence body, allowing left-of-blade cutting.
> 
> The fence extrusion can be mounted to the body in two ways. To accommodate this feature, two index lines are provided on the clear plastic scale cursor, with an icon to show which one applies -therefore, it is possible to read the wrong cursor line if one isn't paying attention…... :-( *DAMHIKT*...........!!The following photo shows the fence extrusion in the *Low Fence Mode*, (my favorite) providing a 1/2" high fence surface and allowing space for hand holding the workpiece without obstruction from the higher part of the fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This view shows the fence positioned in the *High Fence Mode* providing a 3 1/2" fence face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The addition of an *After Market Auxiliary Fence* extrusion allows the use of feather boards or other hold down devices. However, the use of such devices does require the fence extrusion to be clamped down to the table or rear rail, which is easily accomplished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mounting of the *Unifence* proved to be challenging. The *Unifence* was designed to be attached to the front face of a cast iron table, which typically has a flange around the edges of the table. Bolts with heads inside the flange and nuts inside integral tee slots in the back face of the fence extrusion are used to secure the fence to the table. However, the *Model R4511* has a solid granite table with no edge flanges. So I had to dream up an alternate mounting method.
> 
> This installation required the mounting of a new steel rail support angle to the front edge of the table, using the original hole pattern, which I transferred from the original fence rail - the cheapo transfer punch set from Harbor Freight worked like a champ for this application. I used 1/8" x 2" x 2" angle stock from Home Depot. In retrospect, I wish I had used 3/16" or even 1/4" thick stock, which would have made it more rigid. The thinner stock is adequate, however - sometimes bigger* is *better! In addition, I replaced the stock rear fence support angle with a 1/8" x 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" steel angle I had lying around the shop to provide support for a right hand table extension to fill the space between the fence rails outboard of the granite table.
> 
> To accommodate the radius between the rail angle legs, I fabricated a maple filler. The filler was attached to the rail extrusion with 1/4" machine screws and either speed nuts and hex nuts. The speed nuts were used to accommodate the large upper tee slot, which was designed for 3/8" hex nuts in a normal installation. I didn't have room for the large heads of 3/8" FH machine screws in the face of the filler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This view shows the rail support angle, filler, and rail extrusion installed on the front of the granite table. Note that there is no channel between the table and the fence rail to collect debris - or lose pencils….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Unifence* rail extrusion was attached with 1/4" machine screws tapped into the bottom surface of the fence rail, as shown in this view. Altho the fence rail extending beyond the edge of the right hand granite table extension was unsupported, it is so rigid as to not pose a problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since installing the *Unifence*, I have felt much more at home using the saw-kinda like putting on an old pair of slippers…........
> 
> Well, that's about it for this chapter. Stay tuned, there is lots more to come….....................


Hi there,

Not sure if you're still monitoring this page Paul, but if so could you tell me how long the front fence rail is on the original R4511 supplied fence? I am hoping to purchase one in the near future, and for planning purposes with my shop it would be helpful to know how long the rail was/is. You might not still have it, in which case would you say it was longer or shorter than the Delta you have on there now? Thanks so much for the advice.


----------



## paulnwa

paulnwa said:


> *Upgraded Rip Fence*
> 
> For those who don't have the *Ridgid Model R4511* or have never seen one, the stock fence is a T-square type - sort of a mini-Biesemeyer configuration, very loosely speaking. This configuration is somewhat similar to the *Delta T-2*, which a number of folks have purchased to replace the stock fence on this saw. It has a square tube front rail, bolted to a formed steel angle which is screwed to the front of the granite table top. For ease of shipping, the front rail is split in two pieces, with a plastic coupler fitting between the two halves. Like the *Biesemeyer*, the fence body straddles the rail and a cam lock mechanism pulls the body against the steel tube rail. This mechanism seems to lock the fence position quite well. The fence itself is a 2" square steel tube, which has a "hook" fitting on the rear end that catches underneath the rear angle rail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There have been quite a number of folks who have found the original rip fence on the *Model R4511* to meet their needs and expectations very well. And of course there have been a fair number of folks who have had difficulties with the fence - issues related to the two piece front rail, alignment front to back, excessive height off the table, etc. I didn't have any major issues with the fence except the excessive height off the table, altho I think the 2" square tube is too small to be useful for a lot of ripping applications on thicker/longer stock. In addition, I could not get used to the debris-catching space between the front rail tube and the rail support angle - it seemed like I was always losing a pencil in that space and it was always full of sawdust!
> 
> My biggest problem with the original fence was a historical one! I had been using a *Delta Unifence* for the last 20 years or so, and I just couldn't get comfortable using a difference fence. In addition to the "perceived deficiencies" mentioned above, I missed some of the features of the *Unifence* - especially the unique feature of the *Unifence* which allows the fence extrusion to be retracted to a position in front of the blade so it can be used as a stop block for uniform length cross cuts.
> 
> The *Delta Unifence* I purchased for use on the *Model R4511* had a 30" rail, allowing a maximum cut of 30" to the right of the blade and 9" to the left. The total length of the front rail was about 60". Unfortunately, since I purchased the one for this project, it seems like the *Unifence* is either no longer made or is in very short supply. I suspect that since *Delta* bought *Biesemeyer*, they would rather sell only the Bies. - which is indeed an excellent fence, as many of you can probably attest.
> 
> The *Unifence* is a three-piece rip fence - an extruded aluminum front rail, a machined cast aluminum body, and an extruded "L"-shaped aluminum fence. The fence body is supported by the front rail, and a nylon tipped "foot" that rests on the table top - there is no attachment to the rear rail. A steel bar running in a tee slot in the front of the rail is cam locked to the face of rail to lock the fence position. The fence extrusion can be positioned on either side of the fence body, allowing left-of-blade cutting.
> 
> The fence extrusion can be mounted to the body in two ways. To accommodate this feature, two index lines are provided on the clear plastic scale cursor, with an icon to show which one applies -therefore, it is possible to read the wrong cursor line if one isn't paying attention…... :-( *DAMHIKT*...........!!The following photo shows the fence extrusion in the *Low Fence Mode*, (my favorite) providing a 1/2" high fence surface and allowing space for hand holding the workpiece without obstruction from the higher part of the fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This view shows the fence positioned in the *High Fence Mode* providing a 3 1/2" fence face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The addition of an *After Market Auxiliary Fence* extrusion allows the use of feather boards or other hold down devices. However, the use of such devices does require the fence extrusion to be clamped down to the table or rear rail, which is easily accomplished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mounting of the *Unifence* proved to be challenging. The *Unifence* was designed to be attached to the front face of a cast iron table, which typically has a flange around the edges of the table. Bolts with heads inside the flange and nuts inside integral tee slots in the back face of the fence extrusion are used to secure the fence to the table. However, the *Model R4511* has a solid granite table with no edge flanges. So I had to dream up an alternate mounting method.
> 
> This installation required the mounting of a new steel rail support angle to the front edge of the table, using the original hole pattern, which I transferred from the original fence rail - the cheapo transfer punch set from Harbor Freight worked like a champ for this application. I used 1/8" x 2" x 2" angle stock from Home Depot. In retrospect, I wish I had used 3/16" or even 1/4" thick stock, which would have made it more rigid. The thinner stock is adequate, however - sometimes bigger* is *better! In addition, I replaced the stock rear fence support angle with a 1/8" x 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" steel angle I had lying around the shop to provide support for a right hand table extension to fill the space between the fence rails outboard of the granite table.
> 
> To accommodate the radius between the rail angle legs, I fabricated a maple filler. The filler was attached to the rail extrusion with 1/4" machine screws and either speed nuts and hex nuts. The speed nuts were used to accommodate the large upper tee slot, which was designed for 3/8" hex nuts in a normal installation. I didn't have room for the large heads of 3/8" FH machine screws in the face of the filler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This view shows the rail support angle, filler, and rail extrusion installed on the front of the granite table. Note that there is no channel between the table and the fence rail to collect debris - or lose pencils….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Unifence* rail extrusion was attached with 1/4" machine screws tapped into the bottom surface of the fence rail, as shown in this view. Altho the fence rail extending beyond the edge of the right hand granite table extension was unsupported, it is so rigid as to not pose a problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since installing the *Unifence*, I have felt much more at home using the saw-kinda like putting on an old pair of slippers…........
> 
> Well, that's about it for this chapter. Stay tuned, there is lots more to come….....................


Hi Bailey,

The original fence rail was about 67 1/2" long. The saw specifications state that it will cut 20 inches to the left of the blade and 30 inches to the right.

Tho I like the saw, I would have preferred to have a cast iron top instead of the granite. The granite will chip and scratch and makes the saw weight much heavier than cast iron. I am not happy with the miter gage slots in the granite top. The edges of the slots are not polished and quickly wear the plastic adjustment washers on the Incra miter gage bars. Also, you can't use any magnetic tool accessories with the granite top.

If you can find one, I would recommend the previous model, R3650, which a lot of folks seemed to like. Some folks also like the follow on model, R4512, which is the current model. Check out both of the saws in the Reviews section of LJ. Both of these models have cast iron tops.

Hope this helps.


----------



## Originwoodworking

paulnwa said:


> *Upgraded Rip Fence*
> 
> For those who don't have the *Ridgid Model R4511* or have never seen one, the stock fence is a T-square type - sort of a mini-Biesemeyer configuration, very loosely speaking. This configuration is somewhat similar to the *Delta T-2*, which a number of folks have purchased to replace the stock fence on this saw. It has a square tube front rail, bolted to a formed steel angle which is screwed to the front of the granite table top. For ease of shipping, the front rail is split in two pieces, with a plastic coupler fitting between the two halves. Like the *Biesemeyer*, the fence body straddles the rail and a cam lock mechanism pulls the body against the steel tube rail. This mechanism seems to lock the fence position quite well. The fence itself is a 2" square steel tube, which has a "hook" fitting on the rear end that catches underneath the rear angle rail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There have been quite a number of folks who have found the original rip fence on the *Model R4511* to meet their needs and expectations very well. And of course there have been a fair number of folks who have had difficulties with the fence - issues related to the two piece front rail, alignment front to back, excessive height off the table, etc. I didn't have any major issues with the fence except the excessive height off the table, altho I think the 2" square tube is too small to be useful for a lot of ripping applications on thicker/longer stock. In addition, I could not get used to the debris-catching space between the front rail tube and the rail support angle - it seemed like I was always losing a pencil in that space and it was always full of sawdust!
> 
> My biggest problem with the original fence was a historical one! I had been using a *Delta Unifence* for the last 20 years or so, and I just couldn't get comfortable using a difference fence. In addition to the "perceived deficiencies" mentioned above, I missed some of the features of the *Unifence* - especially the unique feature of the *Unifence* which allows the fence extrusion to be retracted to a position in front of the blade so it can be used as a stop block for uniform length cross cuts.
> 
> The *Delta Unifence* I purchased for use on the *Model R4511* had a 30" rail, allowing a maximum cut of 30" to the right of the blade and 9" to the left. The total length of the front rail was about 60". Unfortunately, since I purchased the one for this project, it seems like the *Unifence* is either no longer made or is in very short supply. I suspect that since *Delta* bought *Biesemeyer*, they would rather sell only the Bies. - which is indeed an excellent fence, as many of you can probably attest.
> 
> The *Unifence* is a three-piece rip fence - an extruded aluminum front rail, a machined cast aluminum body, and an extruded "L"-shaped aluminum fence. The fence body is supported by the front rail, and a nylon tipped "foot" that rests on the table top - there is no attachment to the rear rail. A steel bar running in a tee slot in the front of the rail is cam locked to the face of rail to lock the fence position. The fence extrusion can be positioned on either side of the fence body, allowing left-of-blade cutting.
> 
> The fence extrusion can be mounted to the body in two ways. To accommodate this feature, two index lines are provided on the clear plastic scale cursor, with an icon to show which one applies -therefore, it is possible to read the wrong cursor line if one isn't paying attention…... :-( *DAMHIKT*...........!!The following photo shows the fence extrusion in the *Low Fence Mode*, (my favorite) providing a 1/2" high fence surface and allowing space for hand holding the workpiece without obstruction from the higher part of the fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This view shows the fence positioned in the *High Fence Mode* providing a 3 1/2" fence face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The addition of an *After Market Auxiliary Fence* extrusion allows the use of feather boards or other hold down devices. However, the use of such devices does require the fence extrusion to be clamped down to the table or rear rail, which is easily accomplished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mounting of the *Unifence* proved to be challenging. The *Unifence* was designed to be attached to the front face of a cast iron table, which typically has a flange around the edges of the table. Bolts with heads inside the flange and nuts inside integral tee slots in the back face of the fence extrusion are used to secure the fence to the table. However, the *Model R4511* has a solid granite table with no edge flanges. So I had to dream up an alternate mounting method.
> 
> This installation required the mounting of a new steel rail support angle to the front edge of the table, using the original hole pattern, which I transferred from the original fence rail - the cheapo transfer punch set from Harbor Freight worked like a champ for this application. I used 1/8" x 2" x 2" angle stock from Home Depot. In retrospect, I wish I had used 3/16" or even 1/4" thick stock, which would have made it more rigid. The thinner stock is adequate, however - sometimes bigger* is *better! In addition, I replaced the stock rear fence support angle with a 1/8" x 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" steel angle I had lying around the shop to provide support for a right hand table extension to fill the space between the fence rails outboard of the granite table.
> 
> To accommodate the radius between the rail angle legs, I fabricated a maple filler. The filler was attached to the rail extrusion with 1/4" machine screws and either speed nuts and hex nuts. The speed nuts were used to accommodate the large upper tee slot, which was designed for 3/8" hex nuts in a normal installation. I didn't have room for the large heads of 3/8" FH machine screws in the face of the filler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This view shows the rail support angle, filler, and rail extrusion installed on the front of the granite table. Note that there is no channel between the table and the fence rail to collect debris - or lose pencils….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Unifence* rail extrusion was attached with 1/4" machine screws tapped into the bottom surface of the fence rail, as shown in this view. Altho the fence rail extending beyond the edge of the right hand granite table extension was unsupported, it is so rigid as to not pose a problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since installing the *Unifence*, I have felt much more at home using the saw-kinda like putting on an old pair of slippers…........
> 
> Well, that's about it for this chapter. Stay tuned, there is lots more to come….....................


so can the Delta BC50T2 50 in. Universal Biesemeyer Fence and Rail System be mounted on a Ridgid Model R4511 granite top?


----------



## paulnwa

paulnwa said:


> *Upgraded Rip Fence*
> 
> For those who don't have the *Ridgid Model R4511* or have never seen one, the stock fence is a T-square type - sort of a mini-Biesemeyer configuration, very loosely speaking. This configuration is somewhat similar to the *Delta T-2*, which a number of folks have purchased to replace the stock fence on this saw. It has a square tube front rail, bolted to a formed steel angle which is screwed to the front of the granite table top. For ease of shipping, the front rail is split in two pieces, with a plastic coupler fitting between the two halves. Like the *Biesemeyer*, the fence body straddles the rail and a cam lock mechanism pulls the body against the steel tube rail. This mechanism seems to lock the fence position quite well. The fence itself is a 2" square steel tube, which has a "hook" fitting on the rear end that catches underneath the rear angle rail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There have been quite a number of folks who have found the original rip fence on the *Model R4511* to meet their needs and expectations very well. And of course there have been a fair number of folks who have had difficulties with the fence - issues related to the two piece front rail, alignment front to back, excessive height off the table, etc. I didn't have any major issues with the fence except the excessive height off the table, altho I think the 2" square tube is too small to be useful for a lot of ripping applications on thicker/longer stock. In addition, I could not get used to the debris-catching space between the front rail tube and the rail support angle - it seemed like I was always losing a pencil in that space and it was always full of sawdust!
> 
> My biggest problem with the original fence was a historical one! I had been using a *Delta Unifence* for the last 20 years or so, and I just couldn't get comfortable using a difference fence. In addition to the "perceived deficiencies" mentioned above, I missed some of the features of the *Unifence* - especially the unique feature of the *Unifence* which allows the fence extrusion to be retracted to a position in front of the blade so it can be used as a stop block for uniform length cross cuts.
> 
> The *Delta Unifence* I purchased for use on the *Model R4511* had a 30" rail, allowing a maximum cut of 30" to the right of the blade and 9" to the left. The total length of the front rail was about 60". Unfortunately, since I purchased the one for this project, it seems like the *Unifence* is either no longer made or is in very short supply. I suspect that since *Delta* bought *Biesemeyer*, they would rather sell only the Bies. - which is indeed an excellent fence, as many of you can probably attest.
> 
> The *Unifence* is a three-piece rip fence - an extruded aluminum front rail, a machined cast aluminum body, and an extruded "L"-shaped aluminum fence. The fence body is supported by the front rail, and a nylon tipped "foot" that rests on the table top - there is no attachment to the rear rail. A steel bar running in a tee slot in the front of the rail is cam locked to the face of rail to lock the fence position. The fence extrusion can be positioned on either side of the fence body, allowing left-of-blade cutting.
> 
> The fence extrusion can be mounted to the body in two ways. To accommodate this feature, two index lines are provided on the clear plastic scale cursor, with an icon to show which one applies -therefore, it is possible to read the wrong cursor line if one isn't paying attention…... :-( *DAMHIKT*...........!!The following photo shows the fence extrusion in the *Low Fence Mode*, (my favorite) providing a 1/2" high fence surface and allowing space for hand holding the workpiece without obstruction from the higher part of the fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This view shows the fence positioned in the *High Fence Mode* providing a 3 1/2" fence face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The addition of an *After Market Auxiliary Fence* extrusion allows the use of feather boards or other hold down devices. However, the use of such devices does require the fence extrusion to be clamped down to the table or rear rail, which is easily accomplished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mounting of the *Unifence* proved to be challenging. The *Unifence* was designed to be attached to the front face of a cast iron table, which typically has a flange around the edges of the table. Bolts with heads inside the flange and nuts inside integral tee slots in the back face of the fence extrusion are used to secure the fence to the table. However, the *Model R4511* has a solid granite table with no edge flanges. So I had to dream up an alternate mounting method.
> 
> This installation required the mounting of a new steel rail support angle to the front edge of the table, using the original hole pattern, which I transferred from the original fence rail - the cheapo transfer punch set from Harbor Freight worked like a champ for this application. I used 1/8" x 2" x 2" angle stock from Home Depot. In retrospect, I wish I had used 3/16" or even 1/4" thick stock, which would have made it more rigid. The thinner stock is adequate, however - sometimes bigger* is *better! In addition, I replaced the stock rear fence support angle with a 1/8" x 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" steel angle I had lying around the shop to provide support for a right hand table extension to fill the space between the fence rails outboard of the granite table.
> 
> To accommodate the radius between the rail angle legs, I fabricated a maple filler. The filler was attached to the rail extrusion with 1/4" machine screws and either speed nuts and hex nuts. The speed nuts were used to accommodate the large upper tee slot, which was designed for 3/8" hex nuts in a normal installation. I didn't have room for the large heads of 3/8" FH machine screws in the face of the filler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This view shows the rail support angle, filler, and rail extrusion installed on the front of the granite table. Note that there is no channel between the table and the fence rail to collect debris - or lose pencils….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Unifence* rail extrusion was attached with 1/4" machine screws tapped into the bottom surface of the fence rail, as shown in this view. Altho the fence rail extending beyond the edge of the right hand granite table extension was unsupported, it is so rigid as to not pose a problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since installing the *Unifence*, I have felt much more at home using the saw-kinda like putting on an old pair of slippers…........
> 
> Well, that's about it for this chapter. Stay tuned, there is lots more to come….....................


I am not familiar with the Delta BC50T2, altho I think a lot of folks have successfully retrofitted their table saws with this model.

As noted on page 14 of this manual the front rail of the stock fence is bolted to a steel support angle (Front Rail Holder) which is bolted to the front of the granite top.

If the stock rail mounting angle is too small for the Delta fence, it is not difficult to replace the angle with at least a 1/4" thick one (which I did on my R4511 mod) and transfer the hole pattern over to the new support angle.

If you make this update successfully, please post your results here so others can benefit from your experience.


----------



## paulnwa

*Rear Outfeed Table*

One of the useful additions to a table saw is a *Rear Outfeed Table*. In my old shop I made a folding rear outfeed table for my *General 350* cabinet saw that was something like 24" deep and 48" wide. Altho it worked well, it took up a lot of space (which I had available in that shop), but it made a great assembly table.

However, in my new small, narrow, shop, I had to rethink a design suitable for the space I had available. I knew a folding design probably wouldn't work because I didn't have room to move the saw out from the wall and still get around behind it to fold/unfold such a design. So I opted for a fixed table design.

Since the new *Delta Unifence* I installed on my *Model R4511* hangs out over the back of the granite saw table about 12 inches, I decided to use this space for the *Rear Outfeed Table*. I was willing to give away a little width space in the shop for the convenience of the outfeed table. It is surprising how useful such a narrow table can be in supporting most of the normal rip cuts I do for my projects. The saw can be rotated away from the wall for longer cuts and those that require an auxiliary outfeed stand. Also the space under this table works well for my back mounted DC duct and flex hose.

This short, simple, outfeed table is 13" deep x 20" wide and constructed of Baltic Birch plywood with a laminate top. The miter gage clearance slots extend clear to the back of the table - I have found that blind ended slots tend to collect debris and are hard to clean. You sharp-eyed folks will notice that the table tilts down slightly at the back. That was intentional and can be corrected by adjustment screws which I have not yet installed in the back mounting. So far I haven't found the tilt to be a problem. The front edge of the outfeed table is slightly below the saw table so that pieces don't catch coming off the saw.










The *Rear Outfeed Table* is bolted to the back of the saw table and is supported by a gusseted bracket. Any adjustment screws could be threaded into the spreader bar between the gussets. The spreader bar just rests against the back panel of the saw cabinet.










I know this hasn't been a very exciting chapter in this blog, but I included it as part of the photo documentation of this project. The next section should prove to be more interesting…..........Stay tuned!


----------



## NormG

paulnwa said:


> *Rear Outfeed Table*
> 
> One of the useful additions to a table saw is a *Rear Outfeed Table*. In my old shop I made a folding rear outfeed table for my *General 350* cabinet saw that was something like 24" deep and 48" wide. Altho it worked well, it took up a lot of space (which I had available in that shop), but it made a great assembly table.
> 
> However, in my new small, narrow, shop, I had to rethink a design suitable for the space I had available. I knew a folding design probably wouldn't work because I didn't have room to move the saw out from the wall and still get around behind it to fold/unfold such a design. So I opted for a fixed table design.
> 
> Since the new *Delta Unifence* I installed on my *Model R4511* hangs out over the back of the granite saw table about 12 inches, I decided to use this space for the *Rear Outfeed Table*. I was willing to give away a little width space in the shop for the convenience of the outfeed table. It is surprising how useful such a narrow table can be in supporting most of the normal rip cuts I do for my projects. The saw can be rotated away from the wall for longer cuts and those that require an auxiliary outfeed stand. Also the space under this table works well for my back mounted DC duct and flex hose.
> 
> This short, simple, outfeed table is 13" deep x 20" wide and constructed of Baltic Birch plywood with a laminate top. The miter gage clearance slots extend clear to the back of the table - I have found that blind ended slots tend to collect debris and are hard to clean. You sharp-eyed folks will notice that the table tilts down slightly at the back. That was intentional and can be corrected by adjustment screws which I have not yet installed in the back mounting. So far I haven't found the tilt to be a problem. The front edge of the outfeed table is slightly below the saw table so that pieces don't catch coming off the saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Rear Outfeed Table* is bolted to the back of the saw table and is supported by a gusseted bracket. Any adjustment screws could be threaded into the spreader bar between the gussets. The spreader bar just rests against the back panel of the saw cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know this hasn't been a very exciting chapter in this blog, but I included it as part of the photo documentation of this project. The next section should prove to be more interesting…..........Stay tuned!


I am still here


----------



## MWorker

paulnwa said:


> *Rear Outfeed Table*
> 
> One of the useful additions to a table saw is a *Rear Outfeed Table*. In my old shop I made a folding rear outfeed table for my *General 350* cabinet saw that was something like 24" deep and 48" wide. Altho it worked well, it took up a lot of space (which I had available in that shop), but it made a great assembly table.
> 
> However, in my new small, narrow, shop, I had to rethink a design suitable for the space I had available. I knew a folding design probably wouldn't work because I didn't have room to move the saw out from the wall and still get around behind it to fold/unfold such a design. So I opted for a fixed table design.
> 
> Since the new *Delta Unifence* I installed on my *Model R4511* hangs out over the back of the granite saw table about 12 inches, I decided to use this space for the *Rear Outfeed Table*. I was willing to give away a little width space in the shop for the convenience of the outfeed table. It is surprising how useful such a narrow table can be in supporting most of the normal rip cuts I do for my projects. The saw can be rotated away from the wall for longer cuts and those that require an auxiliary outfeed stand. Also the space under this table works well for my back mounted DC duct and flex hose.
> 
> This short, simple, outfeed table is 13" deep x 20" wide and constructed of Baltic Birch plywood with a laminate top. The miter gage clearance slots extend clear to the back of the table - I have found that blind ended slots tend to collect debris and are hard to clean. You sharp-eyed folks will notice that the table tilts down slightly at the back. That was intentional and can be corrected by adjustment screws which I have not yet installed in the back mounting. So far I haven't found the tilt to be a problem. The front edge of the outfeed table is slightly below the saw table so that pieces don't catch coming off the saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Rear Outfeed Table* is bolted to the back of the saw table and is supported by a gusseted bracket. Any adjustment screws could be threaded into the spreader bar between the gussets. The spreader bar just rests against the back panel of the saw cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know this hasn't been a very exciting chapter in this blog, but I included it as part of the photo documentation of this project. The next section should prove to be more interesting…..........Stay tuned!


Great idea and design Paul. I think this is a very useful addition for this saw, as there is not much table behind the blade.


----------



## paulnwa

*A Breezy Side Extension Table*

A *Side Extension Table* was required to fill the space between the front and rear fence support rails, outboard of the saw table. Some folks install a solid panel, as I did on my *General 350* cabinet saw in my old shop because I had a multi-drawer cabinet underneath. Many folks use this space for a router table, which is a great way to add another tool to the shop without eating up any floor space. We have seen many great examples of this type of router table here on the LJ forums - it seems there are a lot of clever folks in the community willing to share their ideas and designs! I love looking at all of the various configurations and the skookum Yankee ingenuity! Whoops - and including our non-Yankee constituents…...... 

In that vein, I would like to thank the forum member who I think is here on LJ, for the inspiration for my take on a *Side Extension Table*. I copied a photo of your design, but I was unable to find your post when I was writing this blog - but whoever you are, thanks for sharing such a novel idea - you will recognize my version of your design!

I couldn't bear to waste the space between the fence rails, but I didn't need a router table since I will be building a free standing one soon. So when I saw the design of a *Downdraft Sanding Extension Table *, all the bells and lights went off! So here is my version of this accessory.

The downdraft table is surrounded by a removable fence system to help contain the sanding dust. Threaded tooling knobs with matching inserts secure the fence to the table and the fence components to one another. The table top is 1/2" Baltic Birch plywood covered in high pressure laminate. There are (432) 3/8" holes on a 1" x 1" grid, that were plunge routed through the top and finished with slight chamfers both sides to improve airflow. This hole pattern was designed to produce about 800 CFM airflow from my 3HP DC. A piece of perforated plastic shelf liner will be used under the workpiece when sanding.










The dust collection box is 21" wide and 27" deep, with 5" high maple side members. The bottom of the box is 1/2" plywood. Sloped baffles, on all four sides, made from 5mm Birch underlayment plywood, channel the dust down into a 1 1/2" x 14" center dust collection slot in the bottom of the box. Note the same aluminum duct tape I used to attach the baffles inside the saw cabinet in the earlier discussion.










A 6" diameter sheet metal right angle furnace boot with a 6" diameter PVC coupling was attached to the bottom of the dust collection box. The bar supported by the allthread pieces is a bumper to protect the thin sheet metal duct from damage when I roll my shop vacuum in under the dust box for storage.










This view shows the dust collection box installed between the fence rails. The laminate covered, perforated, 1/2" plywood top panel (slid aside) installs flush with the top of the box.










This view shows the modular fence components. They are designed so that one or both of the short sides can be removed to accommodate long pieces. If both short sides were removed, the long side would be clamped to the Unifence. However, most of the work I do should fit within the fences. The installation hardware is stored in one of the on-board storage drawers when not in use.










The modular fence components were designed to be stored underneath the dust collection box when not in use. Note the angle clips used to secure the dust collection box to the fence rails.










Again, my thanks to the forum member who posted the original design. One of the things I most enjoy about the LJ forum and others is the sharing of ideas that others can use and hopefully improve upon and/or adapt for their own use. What a great woodworking community!!

Well, that's about it for this chapter. Hang in there….....................there's a lot more to come. Thanks for stopping by. Please feel free to leave any comments or constructive criticisms. All questions will be answered.


----------



## NormG

paulnwa said:


> *A Breezy Side Extension Table*
> 
> A *Side Extension Table* was required to fill the space between the front and rear fence support rails, outboard of the saw table. Some folks install a solid panel, as I did on my *General 350* cabinet saw in my old shop because I had a multi-drawer cabinet underneath. Many folks use this space for a router table, which is a great way to add another tool to the shop without eating up any floor space. We have seen many great examples of this type of router table here on the LJ forums - it seems there are a lot of clever folks in the community willing to share their ideas and designs! I love looking at all of the various configurations and the skookum Yankee ingenuity! Whoops - and including our non-Yankee constituents…......
> 
> In that vein, I would like to thank the forum member who I think is here on LJ, for the inspiration for my take on a *Side Extension Table*. I copied a photo of your design, but I was unable to find your post when I was writing this blog - but whoever you are, thanks for sharing such a novel idea - you will recognize my version of your design!
> 
> I couldn't bear to waste the space between the fence rails, but I didn't need a router table since I will be building a free standing one soon. So when I saw the design of a *Downdraft Sanding Extension Table *, all the bells and lights went off! So here is my version of this accessory.
> 
> The downdraft table is surrounded by a removable fence system to help contain the sanding dust. Threaded tooling knobs with matching inserts secure the fence to the table and the fence components to one another. The table top is 1/2" Baltic Birch plywood covered in high pressure laminate. There are (432) 3/8" holes on a 1" x 1" grid, that were plunge routed through the top and finished with slight chamfers both sides to improve airflow. This hole pattern was designed to produce about 800 CFM airflow from my 3HP DC. A piece of perforated plastic shelf liner will be used under the workpiece when sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust collection box is 21" wide and 27" deep, with 5" high maple side members. The bottom of the box is 1/2" plywood. Sloped baffles, on all four sides, made from 5mm Birch underlayment plywood, channel the dust down into a 1 1/2" x 14" center dust collection slot in the bottom of the box. Note the same aluminum duct tape I used to attach the baffles inside the saw cabinet in the earlier discussion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 6" diameter sheet metal right angle furnace boot with a 6" diameter PVC coupling was attached to the bottom of the dust collection box. The bar supported by the allthread pieces is a bumper to protect the thin sheet metal duct from damage when I roll my shop vacuum in under the dust box for storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This view shows the dust collection box installed between the fence rails. The laminate covered, perforated, 1/2" plywood top panel (slid aside) installs flush with the top of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This view shows the modular fence components. They are designed so that one or both of the short sides can be removed to accommodate long pieces. If both short sides were removed, the long side would be clamped to the Unifence. However, most of the work I do should fit within the fences. The installation hardware is stored in one of the on-board storage drawers when not in use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The modular fence components were designed to be stored underneath the dust collection box when not in use. Note the angle clips used to secure the dust collection box to the fence rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again, my thanks to the forum member who posted the original design. One of the things I most enjoy about the LJ forum and others is the sharing of ideas that others can use and hopefully improve upon and/or adapt for their own use. What a great woodworking community!!
> 
> Well, that's about it for this chapter. Hang in there….....................there's a lot more to come. Thanks for stopping by. Please feel free to leave any comments or constructive criticisms. All questions will be answered.


You have done a wonderful job of planning the refitting and just as good of a job photo journalism of the whole process. Very useful additions


----------



## paulnwa

paulnwa said:


> *A Breezy Side Extension Table*
> 
> A *Side Extension Table* was required to fill the space between the front and rear fence support rails, outboard of the saw table. Some folks install a solid panel, as I did on my *General 350* cabinet saw in my old shop because I had a multi-drawer cabinet underneath. Many folks use this space for a router table, which is a great way to add another tool to the shop without eating up any floor space. We have seen many great examples of this type of router table here on the LJ forums - it seems there are a lot of clever folks in the community willing to share their ideas and designs! I love looking at all of the various configurations and the skookum Yankee ingenuity! Whoops - and including our non-Yankee constituents…......
> 
> In that vein, I would like to thank the forum member who I think is here on LJ, for the inspiration for my take on a *Side Extension Table*. I copied a photo of your design, but I was unable to find your post when I was writing this blog - but whoever you are, thanks for sharing such a novel idea - you will recognize my version of your design!
> 
> I couldn't bear to waste the space between the fence rails, but I didn't need a router table since I will be building a free standing one soon. So when I saw the design of a *Downdraft Sanding Extension Table *, all the bells and lights went off! So here is my version of this accessory.
> 
> The downdraft table is surrounded by a removable fence system to help contain the sanding dust. Threaded tooling knobs with matching inserts secure the fence to the table and the fence components to one another. The table top is 1/2" Baltic Birch plywood covered in high pressure laminate. There are (432) 3/8" holes on a 1" x 1" grid, that were plunge routed through the top and finished with slight chamfers both sides to improve airflow. This hole pattern was designed to produce about 800 CFM airflow from my 3HP DC. A piece of perforated plastic shelf liner will be used under the workpiece when sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust collection box is 21" wide and 27" deep, with 5" high maple side members. The bottom of the box is 1/2" plywood. Sloped baffles, on all four sides, made from 5mm Birch underlayment plywood, channel the dust down into a 1 1/2" x 14" center dust collection slot in the bottom of the box. Note the same aluminum duct tape I used to attach the baffles inside the saw cabinet in the earlier discussion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 6" diameter sheet metal right angle furnace boot with a 6" diameter PVC coupling was attached to the bottom of the dust collection box. The bar supported by the allthread pieces is a bumper to protect the thin sheet metal duct from damage when I roll my shop vacuum in under the dust box for storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This view shows the dust collection box installed between the fence rails. The laminate covered, perforated, 1/2" plywood top panel (slid aside) installs flush with the top of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This view shows the modular fence components. They are designed so that one or both of the short sides can be removed to accommodate long pieces. If both short sides were removed, the long side would be clamped to the Unifence. However, most of the work I do should fit within the fences. The installation hardware is stored in one of the on-board storage drawers when not in use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The modular fence components were designed to be stored underneath the dust collection box when not in use. Note the angle clips used to secure the dust collection box to the fence rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again, my thanks to the forum member who posted the original design. One of the things I most enjoy about the LJ forum and others is the sharing of ideas that others can use and hopefully improve upon and/or adapt for their own use. What a great woodworking community!!
> 
> Well, that's about it for this chapter. Hang in there….....................there's a lot more to come. Thanks for stopping by. Please feel free to leave any comments or constructive criticisms. All questions will be answered.


Thanks, *NormG* for your kind comments. -It was a fun project and it works as well as it looks…....  Photo documentation is really easy these days with the advent of high quality, affordable digital cameras. I notice that a lot of folks here on the LJ website are doing super jobs of documenting their projects. I love to see the wonderful pics of other folks' projects.


----------



## whitebeast88

paulnwa said:


> *A Breezy Side Extension Table*
> 
> A *Side Extension Table* was required to fill the space between the front and rear fence support rails, outboard of the saw table. Some folks install a solid panel, as I did on my *General 350* cabinet saw in my old shop because I had a multi-drawer cabinet underneath. Many folks use this space for a router table, which is a great way to add another tool to the shop without eating up any floor space. We have seen many great examples of this type of router table here on the LJ forums - it seems there are a lot of clever folks in the community willing to share their ideas and designs! I love looking at all of the various configurations and the skookum Yankee ingenuity! Whoops - and including our non-Yankee constituents…......
> 
> In that vein, I would like to thank the forum member who I think is here on LJ, for the inspiration for my take on a *Side Extension Table*. I copied a photo of your design, but I was unable to find your post when I was writing this blog - but whoever you are, thanks for sharing such a novel idea - you will recognize my version of your design!
> 
> I couldn't bear to waste the space between the fence rails, but I didn't need a router table since I will be building a free standing one soon. So when I saw the design of a *Downdraft Sanding Extension Table *, all the bells and lights went off! So here is my version of this accessory.
> 
> The downdraft table is surrounded by a removable fence system to help contain the sanding dust. Threaded tooling knobs with matching inserts secure the fence to the table and the fence components to one another. The table top is 1/2" Baltic Birch plywood covered in high pressure laminate. There are (432) 3/8" holes on a 1" x 1" grid, that were plunge routed through the top and finished with slight chamfers both sides to improve airflow. This hole pattern was designed to produce about 800 CFM airflow from my 3HP DC. A piece of perforated plastic shelf liner will be used under the workpiece when sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust collection box is 21" wide and 27" deep, with 5" high maple side members. The bottom of the box is 1/2" plywood. Sloped baffles, on all four sides, made from 5mm Birch underlayment plywood, channel the dust down into a 1 1/2" x 14" center dust collection slot in the bottom of the box. Note the same aluminum duct tape I used to attach the baffles inside the saw cabinet in the earlier discussion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 6" diameter sheet metal right angle furnace boot with a 6" diameter PVC coupling was attached to the bottom of the dust collection box. The bar supported by the allthread pieces is a bumper to protect the thin sheet metal duct from damage when I roll my shop vacuum in under the dust box for storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This view shows the dust collection box installed between the fence rails. The laminate covered, perforated, 1/2" plywood top panel (slid aside) installs flush with the top of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This view shows the modular fence components. They are designed so that one or both of the short sides can be removed to accommodate long pieces. If both short sides were removed, the long side would be clamped to the Unifence. However, most of the work I do should fit within the fences. The installation hardware is stored in one of the on-board storage drawers when not in use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The modular fence components were designed to be stored underneath the dust collection box when not in use. Note the angle clips used to secure the dust collection box to the fence rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again, my thanks to the forum member who posted the original design. One of the things I most enjoy about the LJ forum and others is the sharing of ideas that others can use and hopefully improve upon and/or adapt for their own use. What a great woodworking community!!
> 
> Well, that's about it for this chapter. Hang in there….....................there's a lot more to come. Thanks for stopping by. Please feel free to leave any comments or constructive criticisms. All questions will be answered.


WOW!!!!thats very nice,great build.


----------



## Buckethead

paulnwa said:


> *A Breezy Side Extension Table*
> 
> A *Side Extension Table* was required to fill the space between the front and rear fence support rails, outboard of the saw table. Some folks install a solid panel, as I did on my *General 350* cabinet saw in my old shop because I had a multi-drawer cabinet underneath. Many folks use this space for a router table, which is a great way to add another tool to the shop without eating up any floor space. We have seen many great examples of this type of router table here on the LJ forums - it seems there are a lot of clever folks in the community willing to share their ideas and designs! I love looking at all of the various configurations and the skookum Yankee ingenuity! Whoops - and including our non-Yankee constituents…......
> 
> In that vein, I would like to thank the forum member who I think is here on LJ, for the inspiration for my take on a *Side Extension Table*. I copied a photo of your design, but I was unable to find your post when I was writing this blog - but whoever you are, thanks for sharing such a novel idea - you will recognize my version of your design!
> 
> I couldn't bear to waste the space between the fence rails, but I didn't need a router table since I will be building a free standing one soon. So when I saw the design of a *Downdraft Sanding Extension Table *, all the bells and lights went off! So here is my version of this accessory.
> 
> The downdraft table is surrounded by a removable fence system to help contain the sanding dust. Threaded tooling knobs with matching inserts secure the fence to the table and the fence components to one another. The table top is 1/2" Baltic Birch plywood covered in high pressure laminate. There are (432) 3/8" holes on a 1" x 1" grid, that were plunge routed through the top and finished with slight chamfers both sides to improve airflow. This hole pattern was designed to produce about 800 CFM airflow from my 3HP DC. A piece of perforated plastic shelf liner will be used under the workpiece when sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust collection box is 21" wide and 27" deep, with 5" high maple side members. The bottom of the box is 1/2" plywood. Sloped baffles, on all four sides, made from 5mm Birch underlayment plywood, channel the dust down into a 1 1/2" x 14" center dust collection slot in the bottom of the box. Note the same aluminum duct tape I used to attach the baffles inside the saw cabinet in the earlier discussion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 6" diameter sheet metal right angle furnace boot with a 6" diameter PVC coupling was attached to the bottom of the dust collection box. The bar supported by the allthread pieces is a bumper to protect the thin sheet metal duct from damage when I roll my shop vacuum in under the dust box for storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This view shows the dust collection box installed between the fence rails. The laminate covered, perforated, 1/2" plywood top panel (slid aside) installs flush with the top of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This view shows the modular fence components. They are designed so that one or both of the short sides can be removed to accommodate long pieces. If both short sides were removed, the long side would be clamped to the Unifence. However, most of the work I do should fit within the fences. The installation hardware is stored in one of the on-board storage drawers when not in use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The modular fence components were designed to be stored underneath the dust collection box when not in use. Note the angle clips used to secure the dust collection box to the fence rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again, my thanks to the forum member who posted the original design. One of the things I most enjoy about the LJ forum and others is the sharing of ideas that others can use and hopefully improve upon and/or adapt for their own use. What a great woodworking community!!
> 
> Well, that's about it for this chapter. Hang in there….....................there's a lot more to come. Thanks for stopping by. Please feel free to leave any comments or constructive criticisms. All questions will be answered.


Excellent build, and share! The extension looks marketable.


----------



## rustythebailiff

paulnwa said:


> *A Breezy Side Extension Table*
> 
> A *Side Extension Table* was required to fill the space between the front and rear fence support rails, outboard of the saw table. Some folks install a solid panel, as I did on my *General 350* cabinet saw in my old shop because I had a multi-drawer cabinet underneath. Many folks use this space for a router table, which is a great way to add another tool to the shop without eating up any floor space. We have seen many great examples of this type of router table here on the LJ forums - it seems there are a lot of clever folks in the community willing to share their ideas and designs! I love looking at all of the various configurations and the skookum Yankee ingenuity! Whoops - and including our non-Yankee constituents…......
> 
> In that vein, I would like to thank the forum member who I think is here on LJ, for the inspiration for my take on a *Side Extension Table*. I copied a photo of your design, but I was unable to find your post when I was writing this blog - but whoever you are, thanks for sharing such a novel idea - you will recognize my version of your design!
> 
> I couldn't bear to waste the space between the fence rails, but I didn't need a router table since I will be building a free standing one soon. So when I saw the design of a *Downdraft Sanding Extension Table *, all the bells and lights went off! So here is my version of this accessory.
> 
> The downdraft table is surrounded by a removable fence system to help contain the sanding dust. Threaded tooling knobs with matching inserts secure the fence to the table and the fence components to one another. The table top is 1/2" Baltic Birch plywood covered in high pressure laminate. There are (432) 3/8" holes on a 1" x 1" grid, that were plunge routed through the top and finished with slight chamfers both sides to improve airflow. This hole pattern was designed to produce about 800 CFM airflow from my 3HP DC. A piece of perforated plastic shelf liner will be used under the workpiece when sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust collection box is 21" wide and 27" deep, with 5" high maple side members. The bottom of the box is 1/2" plywood. Sloped baffles, on all four sides, made from 5mm Birch underlayment plywood, channel the dust down into a 1 1/2" x 14" center dust collection slot in the bottom of the box. Note the same aluminum duct tape I used to attach the baffles inside the saw cabinet in the earlier discussion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 6" diameter sheet metal right angle furnace boot with a 6" diameter PVC coupling was attached to the bottom of the dust collection box. The bar supported by the allthread pieces is a bumper to protect the thin sheet metal duct from damage when I roll my shop vacuum in under the dust box for storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This view shows the dust collection box installed between the fence rails. The laminate covered, perforated, 1/2" plywood top panel (slid aside) installs flush with the top of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This view shows the modular fence components. They are designed so that one or both of the short sides can be removed to accommodate long pieces. If both short sides were removed, the long side would be clamped to the Unifence. However, most of the work I do should fit within the fences. The installation hardware is stored in one of the on-board storage drawers when not in use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The modular fence components were designed to be stored underneath the dust collection box when not in use. Note the angle clips used to secure the dust collection box to the fence rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again, my thanks to the forum member who posted the original design. One of the things I most enjoy about the LJ forum and others is the sharing of ideas that others can use and hopefully improve upon and/or adapt for their own use. What a great woodworking community!!
> 
> Well, that's about it for this chapter. Hang in there….....................there's a lot more to come. Thanks for stopping by. Please feel free to leave any comments or constructive criticisms. All questions will be answered.


It's so nice, it looks like you bought it out of a catalog. Excellent attention to detail


----------



## paulnwa

paulnwa said:


> *A Breezy Side Extension Table*
> 
> A *Side Extension Table* was required to fill the space between the front and rear fence support rails, outboard of the saw table. Some folks install a solid panel, as I did on my *General 350* cabinet saw in my old shop because I had a multi-drawer cabinet underneath. Many folks use this space for a router table, which is a great way to add another tool to the shop without eating up any floor space. We have seen many great examples of this type of router table here on the LJ forums - it seems there are a lot of clever folks in the community willing to share their ideas and designs! I love looking at all of the various configurations and the skookum Yankee ingenuity! Whoops - and including our non-Yankee constituents…......
> 
> In that vein, I would like to thank the forum member who I think is here on LJ, for the inspiration for my take on a *Side Extension Table*. I copied a photo of your design, but I was unable to find your post when I was writing this blog - but whoever you are, thanks for sharing such a novel idea - you will recognize my version of your design!
> 
> I couldn't bear to waste the space between the fence rails, but I didn't need a router table since I will be building a free standing one soon. So when I saw the design of a *Downdraft Sanding Extension Table *, all the bells and lights went off! So here is my version of this accessory.
> 
> The downdraft table is surrounded by a removable fence system to help contain the sanding dust. Threaded tooling knobs with matching inserts secure the fence to the table and the fence components to one another. The table top is 1/2" Baltic Birch plywood covered in high pressure laminate. There are (432) 3/8" holes on a 1" x 1" grid, that were plunge routed through the top and finished with slight chamfers both sides to improve airflow. This hole pattern was designed to produce about 800 CFM airflow from my 3HP DC. A piece of perforated plastic shelf liner will be used under the workpiece when sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust collection box is 21" wide and 27" deep, with 5" high maple side members. The bottom of the box is 1/2" plywood. Sloped baffles, on all four sides, made from 5mm Birch underlayment plywood, channel the dust down into a 1 1/2" x 14" center dust collection slot in the bottom of the box. Note the same aluminum duct tape I used to attach the baffles inside the saw cabinet in the earlier discussion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 6" diameter sheet metal right angle furnace boot with a 6" diameter PVC coupling was attached to the bottom of the dust collection box. The bar supported by the allthread pieces is a bumper to protect the thin sheet metal duct from damage when I roll my shop vacuum in under the dust box for storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This view shows the dust collection box installed between the fence rails. The laminate covered, perforated, 1/2" plywood top panel (slid aside) installs flush with the top of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This view shows the modular fence components. They are designed so that one or both of the short sides can be removed to accommodate long pieces. If both short sides were removed, the long side would be clamped to the Unifence. However, most of the work I do should fit within the fences. The installation hardware is stored in one of the on-board storage drawers when not in use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The modular fence components were designed to be stored underneath the dust collection box when not in use. Note the angle clips used to secure the dust collection box to the fence rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again, my thanks to the forum member who posted the original design. One of the things I most enjoy about the LJ forum and others is the sharing of ideas that others can use and hopefully improve upon and/or adapt for their own use. What a great woodworking community!!
> 
> Well, that's about it for this chapter. Hang in there….....................there's a lot more to come. Thanks for stopping by. Please feel free to leave any comments or constructive criticisms. All questions will be answered.


Thanks guys for your kind comments. It was a fun project. I haven't been able to try out the downdraft table yet, but I hope to soon. I will post the results after I use it.


----------



## paulnwa

*Relocating the Tilt Handwheel -- Design Considerations*

My decision to put a storage cabinet under the left hand table extension of my *Model R4511* tablesaw necessitated the relocation of the *Tilt Handwheel*.

When I designed the cabinet, I made provision for this modification by including a blank panel in the front of the cabinet, centered on the *Tilt Handwheel *shaft. In the photo below, this panel is located on the right side of the lower drawer, which is actually the middle drawer of the cabinet.










The *Tilt Handwheel* shaft, *10mm* in diameter with an *8mm* threaded end, extends through a steel *Cover Plate* mounted on the side of the saw cabinet. The handwheel, which slip fits on the shaft, is a cast metal design which has a cross slot in the hub that engages a roll pin thru the shaft. A *Bar Knob*, with an internal metal insert, threads onto the shaft to prevent the handwheel from coming off and locks the handwheel against the *Cover Plate *to secure the blade tilt position.

















With these existing design features to accommodate, I developed the following design criteria for the *Tilt Handwheel* relocation task.

*Design Criteria*

• Low Cost
• Simple Configuration
• Use Available Components
• Accommodate Possible Shaft Misalignment
• Reduce or Eliminate Lubrication
• Retain Original Handwheel Attachment
• Be Contained within the Envelope of the Saw Table and Fence Rail

To aid in meeting these criteria, I decided to purchase three *Ridgid Model R4511* replacement parts: *Tilt Shaft*, *Roll Pin*, and *Cover Plate *(actually called a *Tilt Bracket *on the Parts List).

The first design decision to be made was *where *to relocate the *Tilt Handwheel.* Two possibilities existed: *Side Mounting*, or *Front Mounting*. So let's look at the Pros and Cons of each.

*Side Mounting*

*The Pros*:

*Side Mounting* of the *Tilt Handwheel* would be the simplest method and require the least number of components. It should be relatively easy to extend the existing *Tilt Shaft *out through the face of the storage cabinet using the purchased replacement parts and a flange mounted bearing similar to the ones I used on the Flip-Top Planer/Sander project (http://lumberjocks.com/projects/53211) . The only challenge might be adapting the two shafts to one another - but that could be accomplished in a couple of different ways. The flange bearing could be mounted to the cabinet after installation and connection of the two shafts, thereby minimizing or eliminating any shaft alignment problem. The *Tilt Handwheel,* *Bar Knob, and Cover Plate *would be installed as in the original configuration. So essentially the *Tilt Handwheel *would simply be moved away from the saw cabinet by the depth of the storage cabinet but would still be located in the same position on the left side of the saw. At least I wouldn't have to fumble under the table extension to reach the handwheel anymore!

*The Cons:*

With the *Tilt Handwheel *on the left side of the saw, as it was originally, I found it very awkward to operate. I am right handed, so to operate the handwheel comfortably, I had to stand on the left side of the saw - but this position prevented me from seeing the *Tilt Position Indicator* on the front panel of the saw. Also, in my small shop with limited floor space, the left end of the saw might be close to the face of my jointer, making access difficult.

If possible, I didn't want the *Tilt Handwheel *and knob to extend out beyond the edge of the table extension. Also, the *Tilt Handwheel *would probably prevent opening some of the storage drawers. So that would mean that I would have to remove the handwheel when not in use - easily done by simply unscrewing the *Bar Knob *and slipping off the handwheel (which could be stored in one of the drawers). However, that might leave the end of the *Tilt Shaft *sticking out beyond the table edge. The *Bar Knob *could be replaced on the shaft.

Unless I added some sort of spacer to take the place of the handwheel, this might also eliminate locking the *Tilt Shaft *position with the *Bar Knob*. However, as the *Tilt *(and *Elevation*) features are worm gear driven, the mechanical advantage of such a mechanism is so high that I doubt any machine vibration would be great enough to change the shaft position.

*Front Mounting*

*The Pros: *

*Front Mounting *of the *Tilt Handwheel *would eliminate the awkward left side operating position and allow clear visibility of the *Tilt Position Iindicator* on the front panel. The saw table and fence rail overhang the front of the cabinet by at least 10 inches, so there would be ample room to install and operate the *Tilt Handwheel *without projecting beyond the envelope of the saw and fence.

*The Cons: *

*Front Mounting *of the *Tilt Handwheel *would introduce more complexity into the installation and require more component parts. In addition, I would have to be creative and come up with a suitable *Turn-the-Corner-Thingy* in order to change the direction of the *Tilt Shaft *from side to front. That might require some serious head scratching and *navel gazing*…………!!

*An Internet Search for Ideas
*

So the first thing I did was to turn to one of the greatest sources of woodworking information around - The LJ forum, of course!! A search turned up some interesting information from folks who have already addressed this problem.

I was able to find two discussions, one by fellow LJer, *Kiefer*, who posted an innovative solution he came up with using a right angle flexible hose to make the transition from the side to the front of his saw(http://lumberjocks.com/projects/46822) He was even more creative by developing a shop made pillow block and beautiful wooden handwheel! My solution probably won't be nearly so elegant and photogenic! Good show, guy!!

The other solution, which I couldn't find when I researched for this blog, although I remember seeing it here on LJ, I think, involved using a modified angle grinder to provide the direction change.

[Note to self: Write down the source when you are pirating other's ideas and publishing them for the world to see so you can give them proper credit!]

This fellow is a machinist and was able to fabricate the modifications necessary to adapt his tilt shaft to the angle grinder head and the end of the armature shaft to his handwheel. Since he used the angle grinder as a housing for the angle drive, he also fabricated a metal bracket to secure the components. I am a woodworker, folks - my metal working equipment consists of a vise, hacksaw, some files, a hammer, and a drill press. Somehow I couldn't see myself making such a nice modification of an angle grinder. I did however consider possibly using the angle head portion of that tool.

Tho both of these approaches were very innovative and seemed to meet the user's requirements, I felt that they would take up more space than I had available or required fabrication operations I couldn't accomplish. I sure appreciate folks' willingness to share their ideas and solutions so freely with the woodworking community, tho. We all benefit greatly from their generosity, and as importantly, from the folks who make these forums like *Lumberjocks *available to us for free! Thanks to all!

I was unable to turn up any other folks who had made similar modifications.

*Back to the Drawing Board
*

So after much deliberation, *navel gazing*, and weighing of the Pros and Cons, I decided to go with the *Front Mounting* option! (BTW, I discovered that the most productive *navel gazing *is done early in the morning aided by a good, strong cup of coffee in a lint-free environment….......... How delighted I was to find another use for my new air compressor………Cleaner than a whistle!……….  )

So now it looks like the task at hand is to come up with a suitable *Turn-the-Corner-Thingy* that will fit in the space available and meet my design criteria. I looked around my shop and found that I had a lot of *Thingys*, but no suitable *Turn-the-Corner-Thingys*. And of course when I find one, I will have to figure out how I can use it!

Ah, there is obviously some more serious *navel gazing *to be done……….but fear not, I shall keep my air compressor handy so that my view will be unobstructed……….! I sense that a breakthrough is on the immediate horizon…..........

Hopefully, the next time we meet, we will have the answer to my *Turn-the-Corner-Thingy *quest and figure out how to put it all together. Stay tuned………………….

Please feel free to share any comments or constructive criticisms. All questions will be answered.


----------



## DIYaholic

paulnwa said:


> *Relocating the Tilt Handwheel -- Design Considerations*
> 
> My decision to put a storage cabinet under the left hand table extension of my *Model R4511* tablesaw necessitated the relocation of the *Tilt Handwheel*.
> 
> When I designed the cabinet, I made provision for this modification by including a blank panel in the front of the cabinet, centered on the *Tilt Handwheel *shaft. In the photo below, this panel is located on the right side of the lower drawer, which is actually the middle drawer of the cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Tilt Handwheel* shaft, *10mm* in diameter with an *8mm* threaded end, extends through a steel *Cover Plate* mounted on the side of the saw cabinet. The handwheel, which slip fits on the shaft, is a cast metal design which has a cross slot in the hub that engages a roll pin thru the shaft. A *Bar Knob*, with an internal metal insert, threads onto the shaft to prevent the handwheel from coming off and locks the handwheel against the *Cover Plate *to secure the blade tilt position.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With these existing design features to accommodate, I developed the following design criteria for the *Tilt Handwheel* relocation task.
> 
> *Design Criteria*
> 
> • Low Cost
> • Simple Configuration
> • Use Available Components
> • Accommodate Possible Shaft Misalignment
> • Reduce or Eliminate Lubrication
> • Retain Original Handwheel Attachment
> • Be Contained within the Envelope of the Saw Table and Fence Rail
> 
> To aid in meeting these criteria, I decided to purchase three *Ridgid Model R4511* replacement parts: *Tilt Shaft*, *Roll Pin*, and *Cover Plate *(actually called a *Tilt Bracket *on the Parts List).
> 
> The first design decision to be made was *where *to relocate the *Tilt Handwheel.* Two possibilities existed: *Side Mounting*, or *Front Mounting*. So let's look at the Pros and Cons of each.
> 
> *Side Mounting*
> 
> *The Pros*:
> 
> *Side Mounting* of the *Tilt Handwheel* would be the simplest method and require the least number of components. It should be relatively easy to extend the existing *Tilt Shaft *out through the face of the storage cabinet using the purchased replacement parts and a flange mounted bearing similar to the ones I used on the Flip-Top Planer/Sander project (http://lumberjocks.com/projects/53211) . The only challenge might be adapting the two shafts to one another - but that could be accomplished in a couple of different ways. The flange bearing could be mounted to the cabinet after installation and connection of the two shafts, thereby minimizing or eliminating any shaft alignment problem. The *Tilt Handwheel,* *Bar Knob, and Cover Plate *would be installed as in the original configuration. So essentially the *Tilt Handwheel *would simply be moved away from the saw cabinet by the depth of the storage cabinet but would still be located in the same position on the left side of the saw. At least I wouldn't have to fumble under the table extension to reach the handwheel anymore!
> 
> *The Cons:*
> 
> With the *Tilt Handwheel *on the left side of the saw, as it was originally, I found it very awkward to operate. I am right handed, so to operate the handwheel comfortably, I had to stand on the left side of the saw - but this position prevented me from seeing the *Tilt Position Indicator* on the front panel of the saw. Also, in my small shop with limited floor space, the left end of the saw might be close to the face of my jointer, making access difficult.
> 
> If possible, I didn't want the *Tilt Handwheel *and knob to extend out beyond the edge of the table extension. Also, the *Tilt Handwheel *would probably prevent opening some of the storage drawers. So that would mean that I would have to remove the handwheel when not in use - easily done by simply unscrewing the *Bar Knob *and slipping off the handwheel (which could be stored in one of the drawers). However, that might leave the end of the *Tilt Shaft *sticking out beyond the table edge. The *Bar Knob *could be replaced on the shaft.
> 
> Unless I added some sort of spacer to take the place of the handwheel, this might also eliminate locking the *Tilt Shaft *position with the *Bar Knob*. However, as the *Tilt *(and *Elevation*) features are worm gear driven, the mechanical advantage of such a mechanism is so high that I doubt any machine vibration would be great enough to change the shaft position.
> 
> *Front Mounting*
> 
> *The Pros: *
> 
> *Front Mounting *of the *Tilt Handwheel *would eliminate the awkward left side operating position and allow clear visibility of the *Tilt Position Iindicator* on the front panel. The saw table and fence rail overhang the front of the cabinet by at least 10 inches, so there would be ample room to install and operate the *Tilt Handwheel *without projecting beyond the envelope of the saw and fence.
> 
> *The Cons: *
> 
> *Front Mounting *of the *Tilt Handwheel *would introduce more complexity into the installation and require more component parts. In addition, I would have to be creative and come up with a suitable *Turn-the-Corner-Thingy* in order to change the direction of the *Tilt Shaft *from side to front. That might require some serious head scratching and *navel gazing*…………!!
> 
> *An Internet Search for Ideas
> *
> 
> So the first thing I did was to turn to one of the greatest sources of woodworking information around - The LJ forum, of course!! A search turned up some interesting information from folks who have already addressed this problem.
> 
> I was able to find two discussions, one by fellow LJer, *Kiefer*, who posted an innovative solution he came up with using a right angle flexible hose to make the transition from the side to the front of his saw(http://lumberjocks.com/projects/46822) He was even more creative by developing a shop made pillow block and beautiful wooden handwheel! My solution probably won't be nearly so elegant and photogenic! Good show, guy!!
> 
> The other solution, which I couldn't find when I researched for this blog, although I remember seeing it here on LJ, I think, involved using a modified angle grinder to provide the direction change.
> 
> [Note to self: Write down the source when you are pirating other's ideas and publishing them for the world to see so you can give them proper credit!]
> 
> This fellow is a machinist and was able to fabricate the modifications necessary to adapt his tilt shaft to the angle grinder head and the end of the armature shaft to his handwheel. Since he used the angle grinder as a housing for the angle drive, he also fabricated a metal bracket to secure the components. I am a woodworker, folks - my metal working equipment consists of a vise, hacksaw, some files, a hammer, and a drill press. Somehow I couldn't see myself making such a nice modification of an angle grinder. I did however consider possibly using the angle head portion of that tool.
> 
> Tho both of these approaches were very innovative and seemed to meet the user's requirements, I felt that they would take up more space than I had available or required fabrication operations I couldn't accomplish. I sure appreciate folks' willingness to share their ideas and solutions so freely with the woodworking community, tho. We all benefit greatly from their generosity, and as importantly, from the folks who make these forums like *Lumberjocks *available to us for free! Thanks to all!
> 
> I was unable to turn up any other folks who had made similar modifications.
> 
> *Back to the Drawing Board
> *
> 
> So after much deliberation, *navel gazing*, and weighing of the Pros and Cons, I decided to go with the *Front Mounting* option! (BTW, I discovered that the most productive *navel gazing *is done early in the morning aided by a good, strong cup of coffee in a lint-free environment….......... How delighted I was to find another use for my new air compressor………Cleaner than a whistle!……….  )
> 
> So now it looks like the task at hand is to come up with a suitable *Turn-the-Corner-Thingy* that will fit in the space available and meet my design criteria. I looked around my shop and found that I had a lot of *Thingys*, but no suitable *Turn-the-Corner-Thingys*. And of course when I find one, I will have to figure out how I can use it!
> 
> Ah, there is obviously some more serious *navel gazing *to be done……….but fear not, I shall keep my air compressor handy so that my view will be unobstructed……….! I sense that a breakthrough is on the immediate horizon…..........
> 
> Hopefully, the next time we meet, we will have the answer to my *Turn-the-Corner-Thingy *quest and figure out how to put it all together. Stay tuned………………….
> 
> Please feel free to share any comments or constructive criticisms. All questions will be answered.


Would a ""Right angle attachment"":http://www.amazon.com/Vermont-American-17172-Angle-Drive/dp/B000CMJWGE/ref=sr14?ie=UTF8&qid=1325131096&sr=8-4 for a hand drill work for your "Turn-the-Corner-Thingy"?


----------



## kiefer

paulnwa said:


> *Relocating the Tilt Handwheel -- Design Considerations*
> 
> My decision to put a storage cabinet under the left hand table extension of my *Model R4511* tablesaw necessitated the relocation of the *Tilt Handwheel*.
> 
> When I designed the cabinet, I made provision for this modification by including a blank panel in the front of the cabinet, centered on the *Tilt Handwheel *shaft. In the photo below, this panel is located on the right side of the lower drawer, which is actually the middle drawer of the cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Tilt Handwheel* shaft, *10mm* in diameter with an *8mm* threaded end, extends through a steel *Cover Plate* mounted on the side of the saw cabinet. The handwheel, which slip fits on the shaft, is a cast metal design which has a cross slot in the hub that engages a roll pin thru the shaft. A *Bar Knob*, with an internal metal insert, threads onto the shaft to prevent the handwheel from coming off and locks the handwheel against the *Cover Plate *to secure the blade tilt position.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With these existing design features to accommodate, I developed the following design criteria for the *Tilt Handwheel* relocation task.
> 
> *Design Criteria*
> 
> • Low Cost
> • Simple Configuration
> • Use Available Components
> • Accommodate Possible Shaft Misalignment
> • Reduce or Eliminate Lubrication
> • Retain Original Handwheel Attachment
> • Be Contained within the Envelope of the Saw Table and Fence Rail
> 
> To aid in meeting these criteria, I decided to purchase three *Ridgid Model R4511* replacement parts: *Tilt Shaft*, *Roll Pin*, and *Cover Plate *(actually called a *Tilt Bracket *on the Parts List).
> 
> The first design decision to be made was *where *to relocate the *Tilt Handwheel.* Two possibilities existed: *Side Mounting*, or *Front Mounting*. So let's look at the Pros and Cons of each.
> 
> *Side Mounting*
> 
> *The Pros*:
> 
> *Side Mounting* of the *Tilt Handwheel* would be the simplest method and require the least number of components. It should be relatively easy to extend the existing *Tilt Shaft *out through the face of the storage cabinet using the purchased replacement parts and a flange mounted bearing similar to the ones I used on the Flip-Top Planer/Sander project (http://lumberjocks.com/projects/53211) . The only challenge might be adapting the two shafts to one another - but that could be accomplished in a couple of different ways. The flange bearing could be mounted to the cabinet after installation and connection of the two shafts, thereby minimizing or eliminating any shaft alignment problem. The *Tilt Handwheel,* *Bar Knob, and Cover Plate *would be installed as in the original configuration. So essentially the *Tilt Handwheel *would simply be moved away from the saw cabinet by the depth of the storage cabinet but would still be located in the same position on the left side of the saw. At least I wouldn't have to fumble under the table extension to reach the handwheel anymore!
> 
> *The Cons:*
> 
> With the *Tilt Handwheel *on the left side of the saw, as it was originally, I found it very awkward to operate. I am right handed, so to operate the handwheel comfortably, I had to stand on the left side of the saw - but this position prevented me from seeing the *Tilt Position Indicator* on the front panel of the saw. Also, in my small shop with limited floor space, the left end of the saw might be close to the face of my jointer, making access difficult.
> 
> If possible, I didn't want the *Tilt Handwheel *and knob to extend out beyond the edge of the table extension. Also, the *Tilt Handwheel *would probably prevent opening some of the storage drawers. So that would mean that I would have to remove the handwheel when not in use - easily done by simply unscrewing the *Bar Knob *and slipping off the handwheel (which could be stored in one of the drawers). However, that might leave the end of the *Tilt Shaft *sticking out beyond the table edge. The *Bar Knob *could be replaced on the shaft.
> 
> Unless I added some sort of spacer to take the place of the handwheel, this might also eliminate locking the *Tilt Shaft *position with the *Bar Knob*. However, as the *Tilt *(and *Elevation*) features are worm gear driven, the mechanical advantage of such a mechanism is so high that I doubt any machine vibration would be great enough to change the shaft position.
> 
> *Front Mounting*
> 
> *The Pros: *
> 
> *Front Mounting *of the *Tilt Handwheel *would eliminate the awkward left side operating position and allow clear visibility of the *Tilt Position Iindicator* on the front panel. The saw table and fence rail overhang the front of the cabinet by at least 10 inches, so there would be ample room to install and operate the *Tilt Handwheel *without projecting beyond the envelope of the saw and fence.
> 
> *The Cons: *
> 
> *Front Mounting *of the *Tilt Handwheel *would introduce more complexity into the installation and require more component parts. In addition, I would have to be creative and come up with a suitable *Turn-the-Corner-Thingy* in order to change the direction of the *Tilt Shaft *from side to front. That might require some serious head scratching and *navel gazing*…………!!
> 
> *An Internet Search for Ideas
> *
> 
> So the first thing I did was to turn to one of the greatest sources of woodworking information around - The LJ forum, of course!! A search turned up some interesting information from folks who have already addressed this problem.
> 
> I was able to find two discussions, one by fellow LJer, *Kiefer*, who posted an innovative solution he came up with using a right angle flexible hose to make the transition from the side to the front of his saw(http://lumberjocks.com/projects/46822) He was even more creative by developing a shop made pillow block and beautiful wooden handwheel! My solution probably won't be nearly so elegant and photogenic! Good show, guy!!
> 
> The other solution, which I couldn't find when I researched for this blog, although I remember seeing it here on LJ, I think, involved using a modified angle grinder to provide the direction change.
> 
> [Note to self: Write down the source when you are pirating other's ideas and publishing them for the world to see so you can give them proper credit!]
> 
> This fellow is a machinist and was able to fabricate the modifications necessary to adapt his tilt shaft to the angle grinder head and the end of the armature shaft to his handwheel. Since he used the angle grinder as a housing for the angle drive, he also fabricated a metal bracket to secure the components. I am a woodworker, folks - my metal working equipment consists of a vise, hacksaw, some files, a hammer, and a drill press. Somehow I couldn't see myself making such a nice modification of an angle grinder. I did however consider possibly using the angle head portion of that tool.
> 
> Tho both of these approaches were very innovative and seemed to meet the user's requirements, I felt that they would take up more space than I had available or required fabrication operations I couldn't accomplish. I sure appreciate folks' willingness to share their ideas and solutions so freely with the woodworking community, tho. We all benefit greatly from their generosity, and as importantly, from the folks who make these forums like *Lumberjocks *available to us for free! Thanks to all!
> 
> I was unable to turn up any other folks who had made similar modifications.
> 
> *Back to the Drawing Board
> *
> 
> So after much deliberation, *navel gazing*, and weighing of the Pros and Cons, I decided to go with the *Front Mounting* option! (BTW, I discovered that the most productive *navel gazing *is done early in the morning aided by a good, strong cup of coffee in a lint-free environment….......... How delighted I was to find another use for my new air compressor………Cleaner than a whistle!……….  )
> 
> So now it looks like the task at hand is to come up with a suitable *Turn-the-Corner-Thingy* that will fit in the space available and meet my design criteria. I looked around my shop and found that I had a lot of *Thingys*, but no suitable *Turn-the-Corner-Thingys*. And of course when I find one, I will have to figure out how I can use it!
> 
> Ah, there is obviously some more serious *navel gazing *to be done……….but fear not, I shall keep my air compressor handy so that my view will be unobstructed……….! I sense that a breakthrough is on the immediate horizon…..........
> 
> Hopefully, the next time we meet, we will have the answer to my *Turn-the-Corner-Thingy *quest and figure out how to put it all together. Stay tuned………………….
> 
> Please feel free to share any comments or constructive criticisms. All questions will be answered.












How about something like this angle drive unit Paul
You could use a nut setter slipped over two 8 mm nuts on the existing shaft and mount the tilt wheel and cover plate to the cabinet housing .
I don't know what the cover plate assembly looks like on the tilt shaft end but I am sure a simple adapter will be possible ,maybe take a pic and show me and I may have a answer .

Kiefer


----------



## paulnwa

paulnwa said:


> *Relocating the Tilt Handwheel -- Design Considerations*
> 
> My decision to put a storage cabinet under the left hand table extension of my *Model R4511* tablesaw necessitated the relocation of the *Tilt Handwheel*.
> 
> When I designed the cabinet, I made provision for this modification by including a blank panel in the front of the cabinet, centered on the *Tilt Handwheel *shaft. In the photo below, this panel is located on the right side of the lower drawer, which is actually the middle drawer of the cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Tilt Handwheel* shaft, *10mm* in diameter with an *8mm* threaded end, extends through a steel *Cover Plate* mounted on the side of the saw cabinet. The handwheel, which slip fits on the shaft, is a cast metal design which has a cross slot in the hub that engages a roll pin thru the shaft. A *Bar Knob*, with an internal metal insert, threads onto the shaft to prevent the handwheel from coming off and locks the handwheel against the *Cover Plate *to secure the blade tilt position.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With these existing design features to accommodate, I developed the following design criteria for the *Tilt Handwheel* relocation task.
> 
> *Design Criteria*
> 
> • Low Cost
> • Simple Configuration
> • Use Available Components
> • Accommodate Possible Shaft Misalignment
> • Reduce or Eliminate Lubrication
> • Retain Original Handwheel Attachment
> • Be Contained within the Envelope of the Saw Table and Fence Rail
> 
> To aid in meeting these criteria, I decided to purchase three *Ridgid Model R4511* replacement parts: *Tilt Shaft*, *Roll Pin*, and *Cover Plate *(actually called a *Tilt Bracket *on the Parts List).
> 
> The first design decision to be made was *where *to relocate the *Tilt Handwheel.* Two possibilities existed: *Side Mounting*, or *Front Mounting*. So let's look at the Pros and Cons of each.
> 
> *Side Mounting*
> 
> *The Pros*:
> 
> *Side Mounting* of the *Tilt Handwheel* would be the simplest method and require the least number of components. It should be relatively easy to extend the existing *Tilt Shaft *out through the face of the storage cabinet using the purchased replacement parts and a flange mounted bearing similar to the ones I used on the Flip-Top Planer/Sander project (http://lumberjocks.com/projects/53211) . The only challenge might be adapting the two shafts to one another - but that could be accomplished in a couple of different ways. The flange bearing could be mounted to the cabinet after installation and connection of the two shafts, thereby minimizing or eliminating any shaft alignment problem. The *Tilt Handwheel,* *Bar Knob, and Cover Plate *would be installed as in the original configuration. So essentially the *Tilt Handwheel *would simply be moved away from the saw cabinet by the depth of the storage cabinet but would still be located in the same position on the left side of the saw. At least I wouldn't have to fumble under the table extension to reach the handwheel anymore!
> 
> *The Cons:*
> 
> With the *Tilt Handwheel *on the left side of the saw, as it was originally, I found it very awkward to operate. I am right handed, so to operate the handwheel comfortably, I had to stand on the left side of the saw - but this position prevented me from seeing the *Tilt Position Indicator* on the front panel of the saw. Also, in my small shop with limited floor space, the left end of the saw might be close to the face of my jointer, making access difficult.
> 
> If possible, I didn't want the *Tilt Handwheel *and knob to extend out beyond the edge of the table extension. Also, the *Tilt Handwheel *would probably prevent opening some of the storage drawers. So that would mean that I would have to remove the handwheel when not in use - easily done by simply unscrewing the *Bar Knob *and slipping off the handwheel (which could be stored in one of the drawers). However, that might leave the end of the *Tilt Shaft *sticking out beyond the table edge. The *Bar Knob *could be replaced on the shaft.
> 
> Unless I added some sort of spacer to take the place of the handwheel, this might also eliminate locking the *Tilt Shaft *position with the *Bar Knob*. However, as the *Tilt *(and *Elevation*) features are worm gear driven, the mechanical advantage of such a mechanism is so high that I doubt any machine vibration would be great enough to change the shaft position.
> 
> *Front Mounting*
> 
> *The Pros: *
> 
> *Front Mounting *of the *Tilt Handwheel *would eliminate the awkward left side operating position and allow clear visibility of the *Tilt Position Iindicator* on the front panel. The saw table and fence rail overhang the front of the cabinet by at least 10 inches, so there would be ample room to install and operate the *Tilt Handwheel *without projecting beyond the envelope of the saw and fence.
> 
> *The Cons: *
> 
> *Front Mounting *of the *Tilt Handwheel *would introduce more complexity into the installation and require more component parts. In addition, I would have to be creative and come up with a suitable *Turn-the-Corner-Thingy* in order to change the direction of the *Tilt Shaft *from side to front. That might require some serious head scratching and *navel gazing*…………!!
> 
> *An Internet Search for Ideas
> *
> 
> So the first thing I did was to turn to one of the greatest sources of woodworking information around - The LJ forum, of course!! A search turned up some interesting information from folks who have already addressed this problem.
> 
> I was able to find two discussions, one by fellow LJer, *Kiefer*, who posted an innovative solution he came up with using a right angle flexible hose to make the transition from the side to the front of his saw(http://lumberjocks.com/projects/46822) He was even more creative by developing a shop made pillow block and beautiful wooden handwheel! My solution probably won't be nearly so elegant and photogenic! Good show, guy!!
> 
> The other solution, which I couldn't find when I researched for this blog, although I remember seeing it here on LJ, I think, involved using a modified angle grinder to provide the direction change.
> 
> [Note to self: Write down the source when you are pirating other's ideas and publishing them for the world to see so you can give them proper credit!]
> 
> This fellow is a machinist and was able to fabricate the modifications necessary to adapt his tilt shaft to the angle grinder head and the end of the armature shaft to his handwheel. Since he used the angle grinder as a housing for the angle drive, he also fabricated a metal bracket to secure the components. I am a woodworker, folks - my metal working equipment consists of a vise, hacksaw, some files, a hammer, and a drill press. Somehow I couldn't see myself making such a nice modification of an angle grinder. I did however consider possibly using the angle head portion of that tool.
> 
> Tho both of these approaches were very innovative and seemed to meet the user's requirements, I felt that they would take up more space than I had available or required fabrication operations I couldn't accomplish. I sure appreciate folks' willingness to share their ideas and solutions so freely with the woodworking community, tho. We all benefit greatly from their generosity, and as importantly, from the folks who make these forums like *Lumberjocks *available to us for free! Thanks to all!
> 
> I was unable to turn up any other folks who had made similar modifications.
> 
> *Back to the Drawing Board
> *
> 
> So after much deliberation, *navel gazing*, and weighing of the Pros and Cons, I decided to go with the *Front Mounting* option! (BTW, I discovered that the most productive *navel gazing *is done early in the morning aided by a good, strong cup of coffee in a lint-free environment….......... How delighted I was to find another use for my new air compressor………Cleaner than a whistle!……….  )
> 
> So now it looks like the task at hand is to come up with a suitable *Turn-the-Corner-Thingy* that will fit in the space available and meet my design criteria. I looked around my shop and found that I had a lot of *Thingys*, but no suitable *Turn-the-Corner-Thingys*. And of course when I find one, I will have to figure out how I can use it!
> 
> Ah, there is obviously some more serious *navel gazing *to be done……….but fear not, I shall keep my air compressor handy so that my view will be unobstructed……….! I sense that a breakthrough is on the immediate horizon…..........
> 
> Hopefully, the next time we meet, we will have the answer to my *Turn-the-Corner-Thingy *quest and figure out how to put it all together. Stay tuned………………….
> 
> Please feel free to share any comments or constructive criticisms. All questions will be answered.


Hi Guys,

What a smart bunch! I knew you would figure it out! What is the saying "Great minds think in the same direction!" Both of you are very close to my solution and I'm sure either of them would work. Thanks for the suggestions. You guys are great! I think you will find my solution interesting. But of course there are a lot of ways to skin the cat, as they say! Stay tuned…............


----------



## jaydubya

paulnwa said:


> *Relocating the Tilt Handwheel -- Design Considerations*
> 
> My decision to put a storage cabinet under the left hand table extension of my *Model R4511* tablesaw necessitated the relocation of the *Tilt Handwheel*.
> 
> When I designed the cabinet, I made provision for this modification by including a blank panel in the front of the cabinet, centered on the *Tilt Handwheel *shaft. In the photo below, this panel is located on the right side of the lower drawer, which is actually the middle drawer of the cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Tilt Handwheel* shaft, *10mm* in diameter with an *8mm* threaded end, extends through a steel *Cover Plate* mounted on the side of the saw cabinet. The handwheel, which slip fits on the shaft, is a cast metal design which has a cross slot in the hub that engages a roll pin thru the shaft. A *Bar Knob*, with an internal metal insert, threads onto the shaft to prevent the handwheel from coming off and locks the handwheel against the *Cover Plate *to secure the blade tilt position.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With these existing design features to accommodate, I developed the following design criteria for the *Tilt Handwheel* relocation task.
> 
> *Design Criteria*
> 
> • Low Cost
> • Simple Configuration
> • Use Available Components
> • Accommodate Possible Shaft Misalignment
> • Reduce or Eliminate Lubrication
> • Retain Original Handwheel Attachment
> • Be Contained within the Envelope of the Saw Table and Fence Rail
> 
> To aid in meeting these criteria, I decided to purchase three *Ridgid Model R4511* replacement parts: *Tilt Shaft*, *Roll Pin*, and *Cover Plate *(actually called a *Tilt Bracket *on the Parts List).
> 
> The first design decision to be made was *where *to relocate the *Tilt Handwheel.* Two possibilities existed: *Side Mounting*, or *Front Mounting*. So let's look at the Pros and Cons of each.
> 
> *Side Mounting*
> 
> *The Pros*:
> 
> *Side Mounting* of the *Tilt Handwheel* would be the simplest method and require the least number of components. It should be relatively easy to extend the existing *Tilt Shaft *out through the face of the storage cabinet using the purchased replacement parts and a flange mounted bearing similar to the ones I used on the Flip-Top Planer/Sander project (http://lumberjocks.com/projects/53211) . The only challenge might be adapting the two shafts to one another - but that could be accomplished in a couple of different ways. The flange bearing could be mounted to the cabinet after installation and connection of the two shafts, thereby minimizing or eliminating any shaft alignment problem. The *Tilt Handwheel,* *Bar Knob, and Cover Plate *would be installed as in the original configuration. So essentially the *Tilt Handwheel *would simply be moved away from the saw cabinet by the depth of the storage cabinet but would still be located in the same position on the left side of the saw. At least I wouldn't have to fumble under the table extension to reach the handwheel anymore!
> 
> *The Cons:*
> 
> With the *Tilt Handwheel *on the left side of the saw, as it was originally, I found it very awkward to operate. I am right handed, so to operate the handwheel comfortably, I had to stand on the left side of the saw - but this position prevented me from seeing the *Tilt Position Indicator* on the front panel of the saw. Also, in my small shop with limited floor space, the left end of the saw might be close to the face of my jointer, making access difficult.
> 
> If possible, I didn't want the *Tilt Handwheel *and knob to extend out beyond the edge of the table extension. Also, the *Tilt Handwheel *would probably prevent opening some of the storage drawers. So that would mean that I would have to remove the handwheel when not in use - easily done by simply unscrewing the *Bar Knob *and slipping off the handwheel (which could be stored in one of the drawers). However, that might leave the end of the *Tilt Shaft *sticking out beyond the table edge. The *Bar Knob *could be replaced on the shaft.
> 
> Unless I added some sort of spacer to take the place of the handwheel, this might also eliminate locking the *Tilt Shaft *position with the *Bar Knob*. However, as the *Tilt *(and *Elevation*) features are worm gear driven, the mechanical advantage of such a mechanism is so high that I doubt any machine vibration would be great enough to change the shaft position.
> 
> *Front Mounting*
> 
> *The Pros: *
> 
> *Front Mounting *of the *Tilt Handwheel *would eliminate the awkward left side operating position and allow clear visibility of the *Tilt Position Iindicator* on the front panel. The saw table and fence rail overhang the front of the cabinet by at least 10 inches, so there would be ample room to install and operate the *Tilt Handwheel *without projecting beyond the envelope of the saw and fence.
> 
> *The Cons: *
> 
> *Front Mounting *of the *Tilt Handwheel *would introduce more complexity into the installation and require more component parts. In addition, I would have to be creative and come up with a suitable *Turn-the-Corner-Thingy* in order to change the direction of the *Tilt Shaft *from side to front. That might require some serious head scratching and *navel gazing*…………!!
> 
> *An Internet Search for Ideas
> *
> 
> So the first thing I did was to turn to one of the greatest sources of woodworking information around - The LJ forum, of course!! A search turned up some interesting information from folks who have already addressed this problem.
> 
> I was able to find two discussions, one by fellow LJer, *Kiefer*, who posted an innovative solution he came up with using a right angle flexible hose to make the transition from the side to the front of his saw(http://lumberjocks.com/projects/46822) He was even more creative by developing a shop made pillow block and beautiful wooden handwheel! My solution probably won't be nearly so elegant and photogenic! Good show, guy!!
> 
> The other solution, which I couldn't find when I researched for this blog, although I remember seeing it here on LJ, I think, involved using a modified angle grinder to provide the direction change.
> 
> [Note to self: Write down the source when you are pirating other's ideas and publishing them for the world to see so you can give them proper credit!]
> 
> This fellow is a machinist and was able to fabricate the modifications necessary to adapt his tilt shaft to the angle grinder head and the end of the armature shaft to his handwheel. Since he used the angle grinder as a housing for the angle drive, he also fabricated a metal bracket to secure the components. I am a woodworker, folks - my metal working equipment consists of a vise, hacksaw, some files, a hammer, and a drill press. Somehow I couldn't see myself making such a nice modification of an angle grinder. I did however consider possibly using the angle head portion of that tool.
> 
> Tho both of these approaches were very innovative and seemed to meet the user's requirements, I felt that they would take up more space than I had available or required fabrication operations I couldn't accomplish. I sure appreciate folks' willingness to share their ideas and solutions so freely with the woodworking community, tho. We all benefit greatly from their generosity, and as importantly, from the folks who make these forums like *Lumberjocks *available to us for free! Thanks to all!
> 
> I was unable to turn up any other folks who had made similar modifications.
> 
> *Back to the Drawing Board
> *
> 
> So after much deliberation, *navel gazing*, and weighing of the Pros and Cons, I decided to go with the *Front Mounting* option! (BTW, I discovered that the most productive *navel gazing *is done early in the morning aided by a good, strong cup of coffee in a lint-free environment….......... How delighted I was to find another use for my new air compressor………Cleaner than a whistle!……….  )
> 
> So now it looks like the task at hand is to come up with a suitable *Turn-the-Corner-Thingy* that will fit in the space available and meet my design criteria. I looked around my shop and found that I had a lot of *Thingys*, but no suitable *Turn-the-Corner-Thingys*. And of course when I find one, I will have to figure out how I can use it!
> 
> Ah, there is obviously some more serious *navel gazing *to be done……….but fear not, I shall keep my air compressor handy so that my view will be unobstructed……….! I sense that a breakthrough is on the immediate horizon…..........
> 
> Hopefully, the next time we meet, we will have the answer to my *Turn-the-Corner-Thingy *quest and figure out how to put it all together. Stay tuned………………….
> 
> Please feel free to share any comments or constructive criticisms. All questions will be answered.


What about something like this
http://www.smallparts.com/huco-333-31-3-miniature-gearbox-dimensions/dp/B004HW6ZN8?ref_=goo_pf_B004HW6ZN8
or this
http://www.sdp-si.com/estore/CoverPg/FlexibleShafts.htm
or one of these cables. You have me thinking about this as well now
http://www.flexishaft.com/FC.htm


----------



## jaydubya

paulnwa said:


> *Relocating the Tilt Handwheel -- Design Considerations*
> 
> My decision to put a storage cabinet under the left hand table extension of my *Model R4511* tablesaw necessitated the relocation of the *Tilt Handwheel*.
> 
> When I designed the cabinet, I made provision for this modification by including a blank panel in the front of the cabinet, centered on the *Tilt Handwheel *shaft. In the photo below, this panel is located on the right side of the lower drawer, which is actually the middle drawer of the cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Tilt Handwheel* shaft, *10mm* in diameter with an *8mm* threaded end, extends through a steel *Cover Plate* mounted on the side of the saw cabinet. The handwheel, which slip fits on the shaft, is a cast metal design which has a cross slot in the hub that engages a roll pin thru the shaft. A *Bar Knob*, with an internal metal insert, threads onto the shaft to prevent the handwheel from coming off and locks the handwheel against the *Cover Plate *to secure the blade tilt position.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With these existing design features to accommodate, I developed the following design criteria for the *Tilt Handwheel* relocation task.
> 
> *Design Criteria*
> 
> • Low Cost
> • Simple Configuration
> • Use Available Components
> • Accommodate Possible Shaft Misalignment
> • Reduce or Eliminate Lubrication
> • Retain Original Handwheel Attachment
> • Be Contained within the Envelope of the Saw Table and Fence Rail
> 
> To aid in meeting these criteria, I decided to purchase three *Ridgid Model R4511* replacement parts: *Tilt Shaft*, *Roll Pin*, and *Cover Plate *(actually called a *Tilt Bracket *on the Parts List).
> 
> The first design decision to be made was *where *to relocate the *Tilt Handwheel.* Two possibilities existed: *Side Mounting*, or *Front Mounting*. So let's look at the Pros and Cons of each.
> 
> *Side Mounting*
> 
> *The Pros*:
> 
> *Side Mounting* of the *Tilt Handwheel* would be the simplest method and require the least number of components. It should be relatively easy to extend the existing *Tilt Shaft *out through the face of the storage cabinet using the purchased replacement parts and a flange mounted bearing similar to the ones I used on the Flip-Top Planer/Sander project (http://lumberjocks.com/projects/53211) . The only challenge might be adapting the two shafts to one another - but that could be accomplished in a couple of different ways. The flange bearing could be mounted to the cabinet after installation and connection of the two shafts, thereby minimizing or eliminating any shaft alignment problem. The *Tilt Handwheel,* *Bar Knob, and Cover Plate *would be installed as in the original configuration. So essentially the *Tilt Handwheel *would simply be moved away from the saw cabinet by the depth of the storage cabinet but would still be located in the same position on the left side of the saw. At least I wouldn't have to fumble under the table extension to reach the handwheel anymore!
> 
> *The Cons:*
> 
> With the *Tilt Handwheel *on the left side of the saw, as it was originally, I found it very awkward to operate. I am right handed, so to operate the handwheel comfortably, I had to stand on the left side of the saw - but this position prevented me from seeing the *Tilt Position Indicator* on the front panel of the saw. Also, in my small shop with limited floor space, the left end of the saw might be close to the face of my jointer, making access difficult.
> 
> If possible, I didn't want the *Tilt Handwheel *and knob to extend out beyond the edge of the table extension. Also, the *Tilt Handwheel *would probably prevent opening some of the storage drawers. So that would mean that I would have to remove the handwheel when not in use - easily done by simply unscrewing the *Bar Knob *and slipping off the handwheel (which could be stored in one of the drawers). However, that might leave the end of the *Tilt Shaft *sticking out beyond the table edge. The *Bar Knob *could be replaced on the shaft.
> 
> Unless I added some sort of spacer to take the place of the handwheel, this might also eliminate locking the *Tilt Shaft *position with the *Bar Knob*. However, as the *Tilt *(and *Elevation*) features are worm gear driven, the mechanical advantage of such a mechanism is so high that I doubt any machine vibration would be great enough to change the shaft position.
> 
> *Front Mounting*
> 
> *The Pros: *
> 
> *Front Mounting *of the *Tilt Handwheel *would eliminate the awkward left side operating position and allow clear visibility of the *Tilt Position Iindicator* on the front panel. The saw table and fence rail overhang the front of the cabinet by at least 10 inches, so there would be ample room to install and operate the *Tilt Handwheel *without projecting beyond the envelope of the saw and fence.
> 
> *The Cons: *
> 
> *Front Mounting *of the *Tilt Handwheel *would introduce more complexity into the installation and require more component parts. In addition, I would have to be creative and come up with a suitable *Turn-the-Corner-Thingy* in order to change the direction of the *Tilt Shaft *from side to front. That might require some serious head scratching and *navel gazing*…………!!
> 
> *An Internet Search for Ideas
> *
> 
> So the first thing I did was to turn to one of the greatest sources of woodworking information around - The LJ forum, of course!! A search turned up some interesting information from folks who have already addressed this problem.
> 
> I was able to find two discussions, one by fellow LJer, *Kiefer*, who posted an innovative solution he came up with using a right angle flexible hose to make the transition from the side to the front of his saw(http://lumberjocks.com/projects/46822) He was even more creative by developing a shop made pillow block and beautiful wooden handwheel! My solution probably won't be nearly so elegant and photogenic! Good show, guy!!
> 
> The other solution, which I couldn't find when I researched for this blog, although I remember seeing it here on LJ, I think, involved using a modified angle grinder to provide the direction change.
> 
> [Note to self: Write down the source when you are pirating other's ideas and publishing them for the world to see so you can give them proper credit!]
> 
> This fellow is a machinist and was able to fabricate the modifications necessary to adapt his tilt shaft to the angle grinder head and the end of the armature shaft to his handwheel. Since he used the angle grinder as a housing for the angle drive, he also fabricated a metal bracket to secure the components. I am a woodworker, folks - my metal working equipment consists of a vise, hacksaw, some files, a hammer, and a drill press. Somehow I couldn't see myself making such a nice modification of an angle grinder. I did however consider possibly using the angle head portion of that tool.
> 
> Tho both of these approaches were very innovative and seemed to meet the user's requirements, I felt that they would take up more space than I had available or required fabrication operations I couldn't accomplish. I sure appreciate folks' willingness to share their ideas and solutions so freely with the woodworking community, tho. We all benefit greatly from their generosity, and as importantly, from the folks who make these forums like *Lumberjocks *available to us for free! Thanks to all!
> 
> I was unable to turn up any other folks who had made similar modifications.
> 
> *Back to the Drawing Board
> *
> 
> So after much deliberation, *navel gazing*, and weighing of the Pros and Cons, I decided to go with the *Front Mounting* option! (BTW, I discovered that the most productive *navel gazing *is done early in the morning aided by a good, strong cup of coffee in a lint-free environment….......... How delighted I was to find another use for my new air compressor………Cleaner than a whistle!……….  )
> 
> So now it looks like the task at hand is to come up with a suitable *Turn-the-Corner-Thingy* that will fit in the space available and meet my design criteria. I looked around my shop and found that I had a lot of *Thingys*, but no suitable *Turn-the-Corner-Thingys*. And of course when I find one, I will have to figure out how I can use it!
> 
> Ah, there is obviously some more serious *navel gazing *to be done……….but fear not, I shall keep my air compressor handy so that my view will be unobstructed……….! I sense that a breakthrough is on the immediate horizon…..........
> 
> Hopefully, the next time we meet, we will have the answer to my *Turn-the-Corner-Thingy *quest and figure out how to put it all together. Stay tuned………………….
> 
> Please feel free to share any comments or constructive criticisms. All questions will be answered.


http://torquetrans.com/right-angle-gear-boxes/miniature-right-angle-drive.htm
http://www.elliottmfg.com/index.php?id=3


----------



## paulnwa

paulnwa said:


> *Relocating the Tilt Handwheel -- Design Considerations*
> 
> My decision to put a storage cabinet under the left hand table extension of my *Model R4511* tablesaw necessitated the relocation of the *Tilt Handwheel*.
> 
> When I designed the cabinet, I made provision for this modification by including a blank panel in the front of the cabinet, centered on the *Tilt Handwheel *shaft. In the photo below, this panel is located on the right side of the lower drawer, which is actually the middle drawer of the cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Tilt Handwheel* shaft, *10mm* in diameter with an *8mm* threaded end, extends through a steel *Cover Plate* mounted on the side of the saw cabinet. The handwheel, which slip fits on the shaft, is a cast metal design which has a cross slot in the hub that engages a roll pin thru the shaft. A *Bar Knob*, with an internal metal insert, threads onto the shaft to prevent the handwheel from coming off and locks the handwheel against the *Cover Plate *to secure the blade tilt position.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With these existing design features to accommodate, I developed the following design criteria for the *Tilt Handwheel* relocation task.
> 
> *Design Criteria*
> 
> • Low Cost
> • Simple Configuration
> • Use Available Components
> • Accommodate Possible Shaft Misalignment
> • Reduce or Eliminate Lubrication
> • Retain Original Handwheel Attachment
> • Be Contained within the Envelope of the Saw Table and Fence Rail
> 
> To aid in meeting these criteria, I decided to purchase three *Ridgid Model R4511* replacement parts: *Tilt Shaft*, *Roll Pin*, and *Cover Plate *(actually called a *Tilt Bracket *on the Parts List).
> 
> The first design decision to be made was *where *to relocate the *Tilt Handwheel.* Two possibilities existed: *Side Mounting*, or *Front Mounting*. So let's look at the Pros and Cons of each.
> 
> *Side Mounting*
> 
> *The Pros*:
> 
> *Side Mounting* of the *Tilt Handwheel* would be the simplest method and require the least number of components. It should be relatively easy to extend the existing *Tilt Shaft *out through the face of the storage cabinet using the purchased replacement parts and a flange mounted bearing similar to the ones I used on the Flip-Top Planer/Sander project (http://lumberjocks.com/projects/53211) . The only challenge might be adapting the two shafts to one another - but that could be accomplished in a couple of different ways. The flange bearing could be mounted to the cabinet after installation and connection of the two shafts, thereby minimizing or eliminating any shaft alignment problem. The *Tilt Handwheel,* *Bar Knob, and Cover Plate *would be installed as in the original configuration. So essentially the *Tilt Handwheel *would simply be moved away from the saw cabinet by the depth of the storage cabinet but would still be located in the same position on the left side of the saw. At least I wouldn't have to fumble under the table extension to reach the handwheel anymore!
> 
> *The Cons:*
> 
> With the *Tilt Handwheel *on the left side of the saw, as it was originally, I found it very awkward to operate. I am right handed, so to operate the handwheel comfortably, I had to stand on the left side of the saw - but this position prevented me from seeing the *Tilt Position Indicator* on the front panel of the saw. Also, in my small shop with limited floor space, the left end of the saw might be close to the face of my jointer, making access difficult.
> 
> If possible, I didn't want the *Tilt Handwheel *and knob to extend out beyond the edge of the table extension. Also, the *Tilt Handwheel *would probably prevent opening some of the storage drawers. So that would mean that I would have to remove the handwheel when not in use - easily done by simply unscrewing the *Bar Knob *and slipping off the handwheel (which could be stored in one of the drawers). However, that might leave the end of the *Tilt Shaft *sticking out beyond the table edge. The *Bar Knob *could be replaced on the shaft.
> 
> Unless I added some sort of spacer to take the place of the handwheel, this might also eliminate locking the *Tilt Shaft *position with the *Bar Knob*. However, as the *Tilt *(and *Elevation*) features are worm gear driven, the mechanical advantage of such a mechanism is so high that I doubt any machine vibration would be great enough to change the shaft position.
> 
> *Front Mounting*
> 
> *The Pros: *
> 
> *Front Mounting *of the *Tilt Handwheel *would eliminate the awkward left side operating position and allow clear visibility of the *Tilt Position Iindicator* on the front panel. The saw table and fence rail overhang the front of the cabinet by at least 10 inches, so there would be ample room to install and operate the *Tilt Handwheel *without projecting beyond the envelope of the saw and fence.
> 
> *The Cons: *
> 
> *Front Mounting *of the *Tilt Handwheel *would introduce more complexity into the installation and require more component parts. In addition, I would have to be creative and come up with a suitable *Turn-the-Corner-Thingy* in order to change the direction of the *Tilt Shaft *from side to front. That might require some serious head scratching and *navel gazing*…………!!
> 
> *An Internet Search for Ideas
> *
> 
> So the first thing I did was to turn to one of the greatest sources of woodworking information around - The LJ forum, of course!! A search turned up some interesting information from folks who have already addressed this problem.
> 
> I was able to find two discussions, one by fellow LJer, *Kiefer*, who posted an innovative solution he came up with using a right angle flexible hose to make the transition from the side to the front of his saw(http://lumberjocks.com/projects/46822) He was even more creative by developing a shop made pillow block and beautiful wooden handwheel! My solution probably won't be nearly so elegant and photogenic! Good show, guy!!
> 
> The other solution, which I couldn't find when I researched for this blog, although I remember seeing it here on LJ, I think, involved using a modified angle grinder to provide the direction change.
> 
> [Note to self: Write down the source when you are pirating other's ideas and publishing them for the world to see so you can give them proper credit!]
> 
> This fellow is a machinist and was able to fabricate the modifications necessary to adapt his tilt shaft to the angle grinder head and the end of the armature shaft to his handwheel. Since he used the angle grinder as a housing for the angle drive, he also fabricated a metal bracket to secure the components. I am a woodworker, folks - my metal working equipment consists of a vise, hacksaw, some files, a hammer, and a drill press. Somehow I couldn't see myself making such a nice modification of an angle grinder. I did however consider possibly using the angle head portion of that tool.
> 
> Tho both of these approaches were very innovative and seemed to meet the user's requirements, I felt that they would take up more space than I had available or required fabrication operations I couldn't accomplish. I sure appreciate folks' willingness to share their ideas and solutions so freely with the woodworking community, tho. We all benefit greatly from their generosity, and as importantly, from the folks who make these forums like *Lumberjocks *available to us for free! Thanks to all!
> 
> I was unable to turn up any other folks who had made similar modifications.
> 
> *Back to the Drawing Board
> *
> 
> So after much deliberation, *navel gazing*, and weighing of the Pros and Cons, I decided to go with the *Front Mounting* option! (BTW, I discovered that the most productive *navel gazing *is done early in the morning aided by a good, strong cup of coffee in a lint-free environment….......... How delighted I was to find another use for my new air compressor………Cleaner than a whistle!……….  )
> 
> So now it looks like the task at hand is to come up with a suitable *Turn-the-Corner-Thingy* that will fit in the space available and meet my design criteria. I looked around my shop and found that I had a lot of *Thingys*, but no suitable *Turn-the-Corner-Thingys*. And of course when I find one, I will have to figure out how I can use it!
> 
> Ah, there is obviously some more serious *navel gazing *to be done……….but fear not, I shall keep my air compressor handy so that my view will be unobstructed……….! I sense that a breakthrough is on the immediate horizon…..........
> 
> Hopefully, the next time we meet, we will have the answer to my *Turn-the-Corner-Thingy *quest and figure out how to put it all together. Stay tuned………………….
> 
> Please feel free to share any comments or constructive criticisms. All questions will be answered.


Hi jaydubya,

All of those are great suggestions! It's funny that I couldn't seem to find small gearboxes like that when I was doing this project. Obviously I wasn't looking under the right rock! Thanks for the references-I will save them for a future project.

I'm writing this blog in retrospect, so I have already made a selection, but the ones you folks are suggesting are really good and I appreciate it. Thanks.


----------



## DIYaholic

paulnwa said:


> *Relocating the Tilt Handwheel -- Design Considerations*
> 
> My decision to put a storage cabinet under the left hand table extension of my *Model R4511* tablesaw necessitated the relocation of the *Tilt Handwheel*.
> 
> When I designed the cabinet, I made provision for this modification by including a blank panel in the front of the cabinet, centered on the *Tilt Handwheel *shaft. In the photo below, this panel is located on the right side of the lower drawer, which is actually the middle drawer of the cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Tilt Handwheel* shaft, *10mm* in diameter with an *8mm* threaded end, extends through a steel *Cover Plate* mounted on the side of the saw cabinet. The handwheel, which slip fits on the shaft, is a cast metal design which has a cross slot in the hub that engages a roll pin thru the shaft. A *Bar Knob*, with an internal metal insert, threads onto the shaft to prevent the handwheel from coming off and locks the handwheel against the *Cover Plate *to secure the blade tilt position.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With these existing design features to accommodate, I developed the following design criteria for the *Tilt Handwheel* relocation task.
> 
> *Design Criteria*
> 
> • Low Cost
> • Simple Configuration
> • Use Available Components
> • Accommodate Possible Shaft Misalignment
> • Reduce or Eliminate Lubrication
> • Retain Original Handwheel Attachment
> • Be Contained within the Envelope of the Saw Table and Fence Rail
> 
> To aid in meeting these criteria, I decided to purchase three *Ridgid Model R4511* replacement parts: *Tilt Shaft*, *Roll Pin*, and *Cover Plate *(actually called a *Tilt Bracket *on the Parts List).
> 
> The first design decision to be made was *where *to relocate the *Tilt Handwheel.* Two possibilities existed: *Side Mounting*, or *Front Mounting*. So let's look at the Pros and Cons of each.
> 
> *Side Mounting*
> 
> *The Pros*:
> 
> *Side Mounting* of the *Tilt Handwheel* would be the simplest method and require the least number of components. It should be relatively easy to extend the existing *Tilt Shaft *out through the face of the storage cabinet using the purchased replacement parts and a flange mounted bearing similar to the ones I used on the Flip-Top Planer/Sander project (http://lumberjocks.com/projects/53211) . The only challenge might be adapting the two shafts to one another - but that could be accomplished in a couple of different ways. The flange bearing could be mounted to the cabinet after installation and connection of the two shafts, thereby minimizing or eliminating any shaft alignment problem. The *Tilt Handwheel,* *Bar Knob, and Cover Plate *would be installed as in the original configuration. So essentially the *Tilt Handwheel *would simply be moved away from the saw cabinet by the depth of the storage cabinet but would still be located in the same position on the left side of the saw. At least I wouldn't have to fumble under the table extension to reach the handwheel anymore!
> 
> *The Cons:*
> 
> With the *Tilt Handwheel *on the left side of the saw, as it was originally, I found it very awkward to operate. I am right handed, so to operate the handwheel comfortably, I had to stand on the left side of the saw - but this position prevented me from seeing the *Tilt Position Indicator* on the front panel of the saw. Also, in my small shop with limited floor space, the left end of the saw might be close to the face of my jointer, making access difficult.
> 
> If possible, I didn't want the *Tilt Handwheel *and knob to extend out beyond the edge of the table extension. Also, the *Tilt Handwheel *would probably prevent opening some of the storage drawers. So that would mean that I would have to remove the handwheel when not in use - easily done by simply unscrewing the *Bar Knob *and slipping off the handwheel (which could be stored in one of the drawers). However, that might leave the end of the *Tilt Shaft *sticking out beyond the table edge. The *Bar Knob *could be replaced on the shaft.
> 
> Unless I added some sort of spacer to take the place of the handwheel, this might also eliminate locking the *Tilt Shaft *position with the *Bar Knob*. However, as the *Tilt *(and *Elevation*) features are worm gear driven, the mechanical advantage of such a mechanism is so high that I doubt any machine vibration would be great enough to change the shaft position.
> 
> *Front Mounting*
> 
> *The Pros: *
> 
> *Front Mounting *of the *Tilt Handwheel *would eliminate the awkward left side operating position and allow clear visibility of the *Tilt Position Iindicator* on the front panel. The saw table and fence rail overhang the front of the cabinet by at least 10 inches, so there would be ample room to install and operate the *Tilt Handwheel *without projecting beyond the envelope of the saw and fence.
> 
> *The Cons: *
> 
> *Front Mounting *of the *Tilt Handwheel *would introduce more complexity into the installation and require more component parts. In addition, I would have to be creative and come up with a suitable *Turn-the-Corner-Thingy* in order to change the direction of the *Tilt Shaft *from side to front. That might require some serious head scratching and *navel gazing*…………!!
> 
> *An Internet Search for Ideas
> *
> 
> So the first thing I did was to turn to one of the greatest sources of woodworking information around - The LJ forum, of course!! A search turned up some interesting information from folks who have already addressed this problem.
> 
> I was able to find two discussions, one by fellow LJer, *Kiefer*, who posted an innovative solution he came up with using a right angle flexible hose to make the transition from the side to the front of his saw(http://lumberjocks.com/projects/46822) He was even more creative by developing a shop made pillow block and beautiful wooden handwheel! My solution probably won't be nearly so elegant and photogenic! Good show, guy!!
> 
> The other solution, which I couldn't find when I researched for this blog, although I remember seeing it here on LJ, I think, involved using a modified angle grinder to provide the direction change.
> 
> [Note to self: Write down the source when you are pirating other's ideas and publishing them for the world to see so you can give them proper credit!]
> 
> This fellow is a machinist and was able to fabricate the modifications necessary to adapt his tilt shaft to the angle grinder head and the end of the armature shaft to his handwheel. Since he used the angle grinder as a housing for the angle drive, he also fabricated a metal bracket to secure the components. I am a woodworker, folks - my metal working equipment consists of a vise, hacksaw, some files, a hammer, and a drill press. Somehow I couldn't see myself making such a nice modification of an angle grinder. I did however consider possibly using the angle head portion of that tool.
> 
> Tho both of these approaches were very innovative and seemed to meet the user's requirements, I felt that they would take up more space than I had available or required fabrication operations I couldn't accomplish. I sure appreciate folks' willingness to share their ideas and solutions so freely with the woodworking community, tho. We all benefit greatly from their generosity, and as importantly, from the folks who make these forums like *Lumberjocks *available to us for free! Thanks to all!
> 
> I was unable to turn up any other folks who had made similar modifications.
> 
> *Back to the Drawing Board
> *
> 
> So after much deliberation, *navel gazing*, and weighing of the Pros and Cons, I decided to go with the *Front Mounting* option! (BTW, I discovered that the most productive *navel gazing *is done early in the morning aided by a good, strong cup of coffee in a lint-free environment….......... How delighted I was to find another use for my new air compressor………Cleaner than a whistle!……….  )
> 
> So now it looks like the task at hand is to come up with a suitable *Turn-the-Corner-Thingy* that will fit in the space available and meet my design criteria. I looked around my shop and found that I had a lot of *Thingys*, but no suitable *Turn-the-Corner-Thingys*. And of course when I find one, I will have to figure out how I can use it!
> 
> Ah, there is obviously some more serious *navel gazing *to be done……….but fear not, I shall keep my air compressor handy so that my view will be unobstructed……….! I sense that a breakthrough is on the immediate horizon…..........
> 
> Hopefully, the next time we meet, we will have the answer to my *Turn-the-Corner-Thingy *quest and figure out how to put it all together. Stay tuned………………….
> 
> Please feel free to share any comments or constructive criticisms. All questions will be answered.


Boy did I have a brain fart! I realised from your previous posts that this project has already been completed.

Might I suggest you challenge us to figure out how you solved and implemented your solutions. Then you can award the saw to whomever gets the hardest/most solutions correct. (shameless.. I need a new tablesaw)


----------



## paulnwa

paulnwa said:


> *Relocating the Tilt Handwheel -- Design Considerations*
> 
> My decision to put a storage cabinet under the left hand table extension of my *Model R4511* tablesaw necessitated the relocation of the *Tilt Handwheel*.
> 
> When I designed the cabinet, I made provision for this modification by including a blank panel in the front of the cabinet, centered on the *Tilt Handwheel *shaft. In the photo below, this panel is located on the right side of the lower drawer, which is actually the middle drawer of the cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Tilt Handwheel* shaft, *10mm* in diameter with an *8mm* threaded end, extends through a steel *Cover Plate* mounted on the side of the saw cabinet. The handwheel, which slip fits on the shaft, is a cast metal design which has a cross slot in the hub that engages a roll pin thru the shaft. A *Bar Knob*, with an internal metal insert, threads onto the shaft to prevent the handwheel from coming off and locks the handwheel against the *Cover Plate *to secure the blade tilt position.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With these existing design features to accommodate, I developed the following design criteria for the *Tilt Handwheel* relocation task.
> 
> *Design Criteria*
> 
> • Low Cost
> • Simple Configuration
> • Use Available Components
> • Accommodate Possible Shaft Misalignment
> • Reduce or Eliminate Lubrication
> • Retain Original Handwheel Attachment
> • Be Contained within the Envelope of the Saw Table and Fence Rail
> 
> To aid in meeting these criteria, I decided to purchase three *Ridgid Model R4511* replacement parts: *Tilt Shaft*, *Roll Pin*, and *Cover Plate *(actually called a *Tilt Bracket *on the Parts List).
> 
> The first design decision to be made was *where *to relocate the *Tilt Handwheel.* Two possibilities existed: *Side Mounting*, or *Front Mounting*. So let's look at the Pros and Cons of each.
> 
> *Side Mounting*
> 
> *The Pros*:
> 
> *Side Mounting* of the *Tilt Handwheel* would be the simplest method and require the least number of components. It should be relatively easy to extend the existing *Tilt Shaft *out through the face of the storage cabinet using the purchased replacement parts and a flange mounted bearing similar to the ones I used on the Flip-Top Planer/Sander project (http://lumberjocks.com/projects/53211) . The only challenge might be adapting the two shafts to one another - but that could be accomplished in a couple of different ways. The flange bearing could be mounted to the cabinet after installation and connection of the two shafts, thereby minimizing or eliminating any shaft alignment problem. The *Tilt Handwheel,* *Bar Knob, and Cover Plate *would be installed as in the original configuration. So essentially the *Tilt Handwheel *would simply be moved away from the saw cabinet by the depth of the storage cabinet but would still be located in the same position on the left side of the saw. At least I wouldn't have to fumble under the table extension to reach the handwheel anymore!
> 
> *The Cons:*
> 
> With the *Tilt Handwheel *on the left side of the saw, as it was originally, I found it very awkward to operate. I am right handed, so to operate the handwheel comfortably, I had to stand on the left side of the saw - but this position prevented me from seeing the *Tilt Position Indicator* on the front panel of the saw. Also, in my small shop with limited floor space, the left end of the saw might be close to the face of my jointer, making access difficult.
> 
> If possible, I didn't want the *Tilt Handwheel *and knob to extend out beyond the edge of the table extension. Also, the *Tilt Handwheel *would probably prevent opening some of the storage drawers. So that would mean that I would have to remove the handwheel when not in use - easily done by simply unscrewing the *Bar Knob *and slipping off the handwheel (which could be stored in one of the drawers). However, that might leave the end of the *Tilt Shaft *sticking out beyond the table edge. The *Bar Knob *could be replaced on the shaft.
> 
> Unless I added some sort of spacer to take the place of the handwheel, this might also eliminate locking the *Tilt Shaft *position with the *Bar Knob*. However, as the *Tilt *(and *Elevation*) features are worm gear driven, the mechanical advantage of such a mechanism is so high that I doubt any machine vibration would be great enough to change the shaft position.
> 
> *Front Mounting*
> 
> *The Pros: *
> 
> *Front Mounting *of the *Tilt Handwheel *would eliminate the awkward left side operating position and allow clear visibility of the *Tilt Position Iindicator* on the front panel. The saw table and fence rail overhang the front of the cabinet by at least 10 inches, so there would be ample room to install and operate the *Tilt Handwheel *without projecting beyond the envelope of the saw and fence.
> 
> *The Cons: *
> 
> *Front Mounting *of the *Tilt Handwheel *would introduce more complexity into the installation and require more component parts. In addition, I would have to be creative and come up with a suitable *Turn-the-Corner-Thingy* in order to change the direction of the *Tilt Shaft *from side to front. That might require some serious head scratching and *navel gazing*…………!!
> 
> *An Internet Search for Ideas
> *
> 
> So the first thing I did was to turn to one of the greatest sources of woodworking information around - The LJ forum, of course!! A search turned up some interesting information from folks who have already addressed this problem.
> 
> I was able to find two discussions, one by fellow LJer, *Kiefer*, who posted an innovative solution he came up with using a right angle flexible hose to make the transition from the side to the front of his saw(http://lumberjocks.com/projects/46822) He was even more creative by developing a shop made pillow block and beautiful wooden handwheel! My solution probably won't be nearly so elegant and photogenic! Good show, guy!!
> 
> The other solution, which I couldn't find when I researched for this blog, although I remember seeing it here on LJ, I think, involved using a modified angle grinder to provide the direction change.
> 
> [Note to self: Write down the source when you are pirating other's ideas and publishing them for the world to see so you can give them proper credit!]
> 
> This fellow is a machinist and was able to fabricate the modifications necessary to adapt his tilt shaft to the angle grinder head and the end of the armature shaft to his handwheel. Since he used the angle grinder as a housing for the angle drive, he also fabricated a metal bracket to secure the components. I am a woodworker, folks - my metal working equipment consists of a vise, hacksaw, some files, a hammer, and a drill press. Somehow I couldn't see myself making such a nice modification of an angle grinder. I did however consider possibly using the angle head portion of that tool.
> 
> Tho both of these approaches were very innovative and seemed to meet the user's requirements, I felt that they would take up more space than I had available or required fabrication operations I couldn't accomplish. I sure appreciate folks' willingness to share their ideas and solutions so freely with the woodworking community, tho. We all benefit greatly from their generosity, and as importantly, from the folks who make these forums like *Lumberjocks *available to us for free! Thanks to all!
> 
> I was unable to turn up any other folks who had made similar modifications.
> 
> *Back to the Drawing Board
> *
> 
> So after much deliberation, *navel gazing*, and weighing of the Pros and Cons, I decided to go with the *Front Mounting* option! (BTW, I discovered that the most productive *navel gazing *is done early in the morning aided by a good, strong cup of coffee in a lint-free environment….......... How delighted I was to find another use for my new air compressor………Cleaner than a whistle!……….  )
> 
> So now it looks like the task at hand is to come up with a suitable *Turn-the-Corner-Thingy* that will fit in the space available and meet my design criteria. I looked around my shop and found that I had a lot of *Thingys*, but no suitable *Turn-the-Corner-Thingys*. And of course when I find one, I will have to figure out how I can use it!
> 
> Ah, there is obviously some more serious *navel gazing *to be done……….but fear not, I shall keep my air compressor handy so that my view will be unobstructed……….! I sense that a breakthrough is on the immediate horizon…..........
> 
> Hopefully, the next time we meet, we will have the answer to my *Turn-the-Corner-Thingy *quest and figure out how to put it all together. Stay tuned………………….
> 
> Please feel free to share any comments or constructive criticisms. All questions will be answered.


Hi Randy,

Great suggestion! I think I would have some difficulty giving away the saw, particularly since I don't think it would fit thru my shop door anymore-and for sure I'm not taking it apart! But be of good cheer, had there been a contest, your entry would have come the closest! Choosing a new saw these days is getting to be a real challenge because there are so many good, affordable choices out there now. Good luck on your future purchase.


----------



## paulnwa

*Relocated Tilt Handwheel -- Finally Making It Happen*

*My Turn-The-Corner-Thingy Selection*

My first choice was to use a small right angle gearbox, but I was unable to come up with any miniature ones with my Google searches. Fellow LJer *DIYaholic *pointed out some really skookum looking ones yesterday from sources that I somehow missed when I was searching. (Thanks, Randy - I tucked those references away in my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy* file for future projects.) Had I seen them, I might have gone that direction. The only right angle gearboxes I could find were too large and cost half as much as my saw!

But in spite of that, my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy* quest has come to a successful conclusion! The winner is the *Milescraft Drill 90 Right Angle Drill Drive*,* Model #1390*, which I purchased at my local *Lowes *store for less than $20. That said, there are other similar products that would probably work just as well, such as the compact *Milescraft Drive 90 #1302* suggested yesterday by LJer *Kiefer*. Please don't let my choices limit your thinking.

Note that my selected *Milescraft *product is very similar to the *Vermont-American Model 17172* suggested by LJer *DIYaholic *yesterday. I had seen this *V-A *model on *Amazon.com*, but it had some accessories that I knew I wasn't going to use and the price was a little higher than the *Milescraft*. I suspect that the two would be interchangeable. But the biggest driver was that I wanted to purchase something that I could get locally so that I could return it easily if it wasn't going to work for this application.

The *Milescraft Drill 90 *is a right angle drill drive with 1:1 ratio, powder metal bevel gears and bronze bearings. For this application, I didn't feel that the plastic case was a detractor because of the intermittent usage, low rotational speeds, and low stress mounting design. The integral chuck would be ideal for gripping the extended *Tilt Shaft *without having to fabricate or purchase any other adapters. This is not a precision device, but it is more than adequate for this job.










*Designing and Packaging the Drive Train
*

Having selected my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy*, I was ready to develop a design for the rest of the drive train, which would meet my previously specified criteria, and a way to package it.

*Design Criteria*

• Low Cost
• Simple Configuration
• Use Available Components
• Accommodate Possible Shaft Misalignment
• Reduce or Eliminate Lubrication
• Retain Original Handwheel Attachment
• Be Contained within the Envelope of the Saw Table and Fence Rail

The photo below is what I came up with for the *Right Angle Drive *train. Note that the *Part 15 *is already installed in the new *Tilt Shaft.*

*Correction*: It has been pointed out to me that some of the parts in the *Drive Train *have been shown out of order in the photo below: Parts *#8 & #12 *should be shown *between *the two* #11 Flange Bearings.* These parts are shown in the correct position in the parts installation photos and in the *Concept Drawing.*










As I mentioned before, I intended to purchase the *Tilt Shaft*, *Roll Pin*, and *Cover Plate *as *Ridgid *replacement parts. Some of the other specialized parts, such as the *Flex Coupling* components and *Shaft Collars *were purchased from *McMaster-Carr * online. The other hardware items were purchased at local hardware outlets.

As a side note, I highly recommend *McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com)* as a source for almost any hardware item you can think of. Their prices are competitive, fast order turnaround, and very reasonable shipping rates. They also have some of the best prices I have found for thin wall PVC S&D ducting fittings, including 6" sizes, for DC system fabrication.

The photo below shows the drive train components assembled in their relative positions similar to the actual installation.










The *Coupling Nut *was an easy way to attach an extension to the existing *Tilt Shaft *projecting from the side of the saw cabinet. The extension shaft was the shank from an *8mm *hex head bolt. The *Jamb Nuts * lock the *Coupling Nut * in place to prevent loosening. The round shank of the extension shaft would be easy to secure in the *Right Angle Drive *chuck.

I incorporated the *Flex Coupling*, a low priced assembly, to minimize the effects of misalignment between the *Right Angle Drive *and the new *Tilt Shaft*. I was delighted to find that *McMaster-Carr *carried the necessary components to permit joining the *3/8"* shaft on the *Right Angle Drive *with the new *10mm Tilt Shaft*!(Would that be called a *Multi-national* connection?) The *Spider * is a Buna - N rubber component that couples the two metal hubs and provides a small measure of flexibility.

The *Shaft Collars *were incorporated to prevent any lateral movement of the new *Tilt Shaft*. Operating the *Tilt Handwheel *could tend to push the new *Tilt Shaft *inward, putting unwanted stress on the *Right **Angle Drive*. Conversely, locking the handwheel with the *Bar Knob* would tend to pull the new *Tilt Shaft *outward, disengaging the *Flex Coupling*.

The *Spyraflo Flange Bearings* are a unique design in that the bearing surfaces are made from *Acetal (Delrin), *an engineered plastic material that is widely used in industry for low load bearing, low friction, precision bearings. These bearings are also self aligning and will tolerate up to 5º misalignment - a low cost product with amazing specifications! The *Acetal *bearing material is a product with a low coefficient of friction and requires no additional lubrication.

The flat steel and nylon washers were provided to produce low friction, rotational "thrust" bearing surfaces.

*Right Angle Drive Train Installation*

As shown below, a three-sided, open top (and bottom) box was fabricated and attached to the inside of the back and the right side of the storage cabinet. So that the storage cabinet would fit tightly against the saw cabinet, a counterbore was drilled in the outside of the storage cabinet back to accommodate the thickness of the original *Cover Plate*. An oversize hole was drilled thru the cabinet back to allow access to tighten the rear *Jamb Nut*. The photo shows the *Coupling Nut *with the extended *Tilt Shaft *and *Jamb Nuts *installed.










The photo below shows the *Milescraft Drill 90 Right Angle Drill Drive* installed on the extended *Tilt Shaft*. Note the oversize access hole in the side of the cabinet to allow clearance for installation and removal of the *Right Angle Drive* with the *Flex Coupling Hub* installed. The *Right Angle Drive Hub* was approximately centered in the side opening. The open top and bottom of the enclosure allowed tightening of the chuck on the shaft extension. I chose to leave the angle drive handle attachment bolt through the housing in place. I had originally considered using the bolt to attach the drive, but found it wasn't necessary.










As shown in the following photo, a separate external enclosure was built for mounting the *Flange Bearings *and housing the rest of the drive components. The bearing supports were fabricated and drilled as a matched pair, minimizing alignment problems. Note that the *Flex Coupling *is clearly visible and that the two *Shaft Collars *sandwich the flat anti- friction washers and the *Inner Flange Bearing*. These components were installed with full engagement of the *Flex Coupling *components and adjusted to produce minimal lateral movement of the new *Tilt Shaft*, while maintaining free rotation. Note the *Right Angle Drive * is unattached on one end, constrained only by the *Flex Coupling *- this design minimizes the stress applied to the *Right Angle Drive *in operation. The *Flex Coupling *is self adjusting, accommodating any minor misalignment of components.










After installation of the drive train components, the external box position was adjusted visually to produce the best alignment of the *Flex Coupling*, minimizlng misalignment between the *Right Angle Drive *and the new *Tilt Shaft*, and clamped in place. Permanent attachment of the external box to the cabinet side was then done with screws from inside the storage cabinet.

The external surfaces of the box were covered with 5mm Birch underlayment plywood to improve appearance. I didn't like the appearance of a square box that looked like it was just stuck to the side of the storage cabinet, so I added some sloped panels to make it more aesthetic- strictly foo foo-they serve no other purpose other than to make it harder for dust to stick to them. A removable access panel was incorporated into the side of the box to allow installation, removal, and adjustment of the drive train components.

The photo below shows the *Outside Flange Bearing *installation. The pairs of *Flange Bearing *mounting holes were oriented at 90º to each other. Note the screwdriver access holes for installation of the *Inner Flange Bearing *mounting screws. The *Cover Plate*, not shown in the photo, was installed over the large hole in the face of the enclosure. Installation of the *Access Cover*, *Tilt Handwheel*, and the *Bar Knob *completed the assembly.










*The Relocated Tilt Handwheel*

So for all of you folks who have been waiting with bated breath………..here is what the *Front-Mounted Relocated Tilt Handwheel* looks like! It is totally contained within the envelope of the front overhang of the table and fence rail and the front of the storage cabinet. In addition, there is no interference with adjacent front-mounted machine components, such as the *Power Switch*, *Elevation Handwheel*, and *Tilt Indicator*. The *Relocated Tilt Handwheel* operates smoothly, with no more effort than when it was mounted on the side of the saw - but it sure is a heck of a lot handier to use!










*The Handwheel Twins*

Kinda looks like a poor man's version of the new *Delta Unisaw*……………..!










*Bits and Pieces and $$*

So now your next questions are going to be, *"What are the parts? Where can I buy them? and What do they cost?"* So here are some answers. You may find that substituting other parts will work just as well. Keep in mind that these are the parts I used for the *Model R4511 *- *doing a similar modification to another saw may require different parts and hardware, especially for adapting to the existing tilt shaft.
*










*What If My R4511 Doesn't Have a Storage Cabinet or I Have a Different Saw?
*
The obvious answer is 1) you could add one, or 2) you could find a *Model 4511 *on Craigslist and change saws……………!!

But let me suggest a third alternative for relocating the *Tilt Handwheel *to the front of *almost any tablesaw*.

Firstly, purchase the component parts listed above or equivalents to fit your particular saw. Altho the *Flex Coupling *could be omitted, I would recommend including it because working with wood usually isn't as precise as dealing with metal components, although with care it can be done.

Secondly, design and build a suitable enclosure for the drive components you have selected. Sometimes it is best to have the hardware in hand before fabricating anything so that you can be sure that everything is going to fit together.

As a starting point design, you might consider the concept below:










I would add a thin plywood or hardboard cover to the top and bottom to increase the rigidity of the enclosure and preclude dust and debris. At least one of the two covers should be removable to allow access for installation and removal of the drive train components. I would also make the two sides of the enclosure adjacent to the saw cabinet at 1 to 2 inches larger top and bottom to provide a flange for attachment of the enclosure to the saw cabinet.

*WARNING!!* This is *only *a conceptual drawing-the actual dimensions of the enclosure and the placing of components will depend upon the configuration of your saw and the drive train components selected.

Well, we have finally come to the end of this chapter. But, stay tuned…........there's more to come!

This phase of the equipment upgrade was an interesting one for me- and will be right up there near the top of my favorite changes to this tablesaw. One of the things that delights me the most is that I was able to put it together with available parts and wood scraps in the shop. And the only part alteration was to cut off the head of the bolt I used for the extension shaft and cut off the excess length of the purchased Tilt Shaft. I hope others will find this information useful. If so, please let me know-and be sure to show us some pictures if you decide to take this adventure…................

Please feel free to leave comments or constructive suggestions. All questions will be answered. And if you find any errors in the material callouts or part numbers, etc., please let me know so I can make corrections.


----------



## jaydubya

paulnwa said:


> *Relocated Tilt Handwheel -- Finally Making It Happen*
> 
> *My Turn-The-Corner-Thingy Selection*
> 
> My first choice was to use a small right angle gearbox, but I was unable to come up with any miniature ones with my Google searches. Fellow LJer *DIYaholic *pointed out some really skookum looking ones yesterday from sources that I somehow missed when I was searching. (Thanks, Randy - I tucked those references away in my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy* file for future projects.) Had I seen them, I might have gone that direction. The only right angle gearboxes I could find were too large and cost half as much as my saw!
> 
> But in spite of that, my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy* quest has come to a successful conclusion! The winner is the *Milescraft Drill 90 Right Angle Drill Drive*,* Model #1390*, which I purchased at my local *Lowes *store for less than $20. That said, there are other similar products that would probably work just as well, such as the compact *Milescraft Drive 90 #1302* suggested yesterday by LJer *Kiefer*. Please don't let my choices limit your thinking.
> 
> Note that my selected *Milescraft *product is very similar to the *Vermont-American Model 17172* suggested by LJer *DIYaholic *yesterday. I had seen this *V-A *model on *Amazon.com*, but it had some accessories that I knew I wasn't going to use and the price was a little higher than the *Milescraft*. I suspect that the two would be interchangeable. But the biggest driver was that I wanted to purchase something that I could get locally so that I could return it easily if it wasn't going to work for this application.
> 
> The *Milescraft Drill 90 *is a right angle drill drive with 1:1 ratio, powder metal bevel gears and bronze bearings. For this application, I didn't feel that the plastic case was a detractor because of the intermittent usage, low rotational speeds, and low stress mounting design. The integral chuck would be ideal for gripping the extended *Tilt Shaft *without having to fabricate or purchase any other adapters. This is not a precision device, but it is more than adequate for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Designing and Packaging the Drive Train
> *
> 
> Having selected my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy*, I was ready to develop a design for the rest of the drive train, which would meet my previously specified criteria, and a way to package it.
> 
> *Design Criteria*
> 
> • Low Cost
> • Simple Configuration
> • Use Available Components
> • Accommodate Possible Shaft Misalignment
> • Reduce or Eliminate Lubrication
> • Retain Original Handwheel Attachment
> • Be Contained within the Envelope of the Saw Table and Fence Rail
> 
> The photo below is what I came up with for the *Right Angle Drive *train. Note that the *Part 15 *is already installed in the new *Tilt Shaft.*
> 
> *Correction*: It has been pointed out to me that some of the parts in the *Drive Train *have been shown out of order in the photo below: Parts *#8 & #12 *should be shown *between *the two* #11 Flange Bearings.* These parts are shown in the correct position in the parts installation photos and in the *Concept Drawing.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned before, I intended to purchase the *Tilt Shaft*, *Roll Pin*, and *Cover Plate *as *Ridgid *replacement parts. Some of the other specialized parts, such as the *Flex Coupling* components and *Shaft Collars *were purchased from *McMaster-Carr * online. The other hardware items were purchased at local hardware outlets.
> 
> As a side note, I highly recommend *McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com)* as a source for almost any hardware item you can think of. Their prices are competitive, fast order turnaround, and very reasonable shipping rates. They also have some of the best prices I have found for thin wall PVC S&D ducting fittings, including 6" sizes, for DC system fabrication.
> 
> The photo below shows the drive train components assembled in their relative positions similar to the actual installation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Coupling Nut *was an easy way to attach an extension to the existing *Tilt Shaft *projecting from the side of the saw cabinet. The extension shaft was the shank from an *8mm *hex head bolt. The *Jamb Nuts * lock the *Coupling Nut * in place to prevent loosening. The round shank of the extension shaft would be easy to secure in the *Right Angle Drive *chuck.
> 
> I incorporated the *Flex Coupling*, a low priced assembly, to minimize the effects of misalignment between the *Right Angle Drive *and the new *Tilt Shaft*. I was delighted to find that *McMaster-Carr *carried the necessary components to permit joining the *3/8"* shaft on the *Right Angle Drive *with the new *10mm Tilt Shaft*!(Would that be called a *Multi-national* connection?) The *Spider * is a Buna - N rubber component that couples the two metal hubs and provides a small measure of flexibility.
> 
> The *Shaft Collars *were incorporated to prevent any lateral movement of the new *Tilt Shaft*. Operating the *Tilt Handwheel *could tend to push the new *Tilt Shaft *inward, putting unwanted stress on the *Right **Angle Drive*. Conversely, locking the handwheel with the *Bar Knob* would tend to pull the new *Tilt Shaft *outward, disengaging the *Flex Coupling*.
> 
> The *Spyraflo Flange Bearings* are a unique design in that the bearing surfaces are made from *Acetal (Delrin), *an engineered plastic material that is widely used in industry for low load bearing, low friction, precision bearings. These bearings are also self aligning and will tolerate up to 5º misalignment - a low cost product with amazing specifications! The *Acetal *bearing material is a product with a low coefficient of friction and requires no additional lubrication.
> 
> The flat steel and nylon washers were provided to produce low friction, rotational "thrust" bearing surfaces.
> 
> *Right Angle Drive Train Installation*
> 
> As shown below, a three-sided, open top (and bottom) box was fabricated and attached to the inside of the back and the right side of the storage cabinet. So that the storage cabinet would fit tightly against the saw cabinet, a counterbore was drilled in the outside of the storage cabinet back to accommodate the thickness of the original *Cover Plate*. An oversize hole was drilled thru the cabinet back to allow access to tighten the rear *Jamb Nut*. The photo shows the *Coupling Nut *with the extended *Tilt Shaft *and *Jamb Nuts *installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below shows the *Milescraft Drill 90 Right Angle Drill Drive* installed on the extended *Tilt Shaft*. Note the oversize access hole in the side of the cabinet to allow clearance for installation and removal of the *Right Angle Drive* with the *Flex Coupling Hub* installed. The *Right Angle Drive Hub* was approximately centered in the side opening. The open top and bottom of the enclosure allowed tightening of the chuck on the shaft extension. I chose to leave the angle drive handle attachment bolt through the housing in place. I had originally considered using the bolt to attach the drive, but found it wasn't necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As shown in the following photo, a separate external enclosure was built for mounting the *Flange Bearings *and housing the rest of the drive components. The bearing supports were fabricated and drilled as a matched pair, minimizing alignment problems. Note that the *Flex Coupling *is clearly visible and that the two *Shaft Collars *sandwich the flat anti- friction washers and the *Inner Flange Bearing*. These components were installed with full engagement of the *Flex Coupling *components and adjusted to produce minimal lateral movement of the new *Tilt Shaft*, while maintaining free rotation. Note the *Right Angle Drive * is unattached on one end, constrained only by the *Flex Coupling *- this design minimizes the stress applied to the *Right Angle Drive *in operation. The *Flex Coupling *is self adjusting, accommodating any minor misalignment of components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After installation of the drive train components, the external box position was adjusted visually to produce the best alignment of the *Flex Coupling*, minimizlng misalignment between the *Right Angle Drive *and the new *Tilt Shaft*, and clamped in place. Permanent attachment of the external box to the cabinet side was then done with screws from inside the storage cabinet.
> 
> The external surfaces of the box were covered with 5mm Birch underlayment plywood to improve appearance. I didn't like the appearance of a square box that looked like it was just stuck to the side of the storage cabinet, so I added some sloped panels to make it more aesthetic- strictly foo foo-they serve no other purpose other than to make it harder for dust to stick to them. A removable access panel was incorporated into the side of the box to allow installation, removal, and adjustment of the drive train components.
> 
> The photo below shows the *Outside Flange Bearing *installation. The pairs of *Flange Bearing *mounting holes were oriented at 90º to each other. Note the screwdriver access holes for installation of the *Inner Flange Bearing *mounting screws. The *Cover Plate*, not shown in the photo, was installed over the large hole in the face of the enclosure. Installation of the *Access Cover*, *Tilt Handwheel*, and the *Bar Knob *completed the assembly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Relocated Tilt Handwheel*
> 
> So for all of you folks who have been waiting with bated breath………..here is what the *Front-Mounted Relocated Tilt Handwheel* looks like! It is totally contained within the envelope of the front overhang of the table and fence rail and the front of the storage cabinet. In addition, there is no interference with adjacent front-mounted machine components, such as the *Power Switch*, *Elevation Handwheel*, and *Tilt Indicator*. The *Relocated Tilt Handwheel* operates smoothly, with no more effort than when it was mounted on the side of the saw - but it sure is a heck of a lot handier to use!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Handwheel Twins*
> 
> Kinda looks like a poor man's version of the new *Delta Unisaw*……………..!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Bits and Pieces and $$*
> 
> So now your next questions are going to be, *"What are the parts? Where can I buy them? and What do they cost?"* So here are some answers. You may find that substituting other parts will work just as well. Keep in mind that these are the parts I used for the *Model R4511 *- *doing a similar modification to another saw may require different parts and hardware, especially for adapting to the existing tilt shaft.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *What If My R4511 Doesn't Have a Storage Cabinet or I Have a Different Saw?
> *
> The obvious answer is 1) you could add one, or 2) you could find a *Model 4511 *on Craigslist and change saws……………!!
> 
> But let me suggest a third alternative for relocating the *Tilt Handwheel *to the front of *almost any tablesaw*.
> 
> Firstly, purchase the component parts listed above or equivalents to fit your particular saw. Altho the *Flex Coupling *could be omitted, I would recommend including it because working with wood usually isn't as precise as dealing with metal components, although with care it can be done.
> 
> Secondly, design and build a suitable enclosure for the drive components you have selected. Sometimes it is best to have the hardware in hand before fabricating anything so that you can be sure that everything is going to fit together.
> 
> As a starting point design, you might consider the concept below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would add a thin plywood or hardboard cover to the top and bottom to increase the rigidity of the enclosure and preclude dust and debris. At least one of the two covers should be removable to allow access for installation and removal of the drive train components. I would also make the two sides of the enclosure adjacent to the saw cabinet at 1 to 2 inches larger top and bottom to provide a flange for attachment of the enclosure to the saw cabinet.
> 
> *WARNING!!* This is *only *a conceptual drawing-the actual dimensions of the enclosure and the placing of components will depend upon the configuration of your saw and the drive train components selected.
> 
> Well, we have finally come to the end of this chapter. But, stay tuned…........there's more to come!
> 
> This phase of the equipment upgrade was an interesting one for me- and will be right up there near the top of my favorite changes to this tablesaw. One of the things that delights me the most is that I was able to put it together with available parts and wood scraps in the shop. And the only part alteration was to cut off the head of the bolt I used for the extension shaft and cut off the excess length of the purchased Tilt Shaft. I hope others will find this information useful. If so, please let me know-and be sure to show us some pictures if you decide to take this adventure…................
> 
> Please feel free to leave comments or constructive suggestions. All questions will be answered. And if you find any errors in the material callouts or part numbers, etc., please let me know so I can make corrections.


Nice, im wondering if I could adapt this idea to my saw, but have the wheel come out the front of the saw…


----------



## paulnwa

paulnwa said:


> *Relocated Tilt Handwheel -- Finally Making It Happen*
> 
> *My Turn-The-Corner-Thingy Selection*
> 
> My first choice was to use a small right angle gearbox, but I was unable to come up with any miniature ones with my Google searches. Fellow LJer *DIYaholic *pointed out some really skookum looking ones yesterday from sources that I somehow missed when I was searching. (Thanks, Randy - I tucked those references away in my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy* file for future projects.) Had I seen them, I might have gone that direction. The only right angle gearboxes I could find were too large and cost half as much as my saw!
> 
> But in spite of that, my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy* quest has come to a successful conclusion! The winner is the *Milescraft Drill 90 Right Angle Drill Drive*,* Model #1390*, which I purchased at my local *Lowes *store for less than $20. That said, there are other similar products that would probably work just as well, such as the compact *Milescraft Drive 90 #1302* suggested yesterday by LJer *Kiefer*. Please don't let my choices limit your thinking.
> 
> Note that my selected *Milescraft *product is very similar to the *Vermont-American Model 17172* suggested by LJer *DIYaholic *yesterday. I had seen this *V-A *model on *Amazon.com*, but it had some accessories that I knew I wasn't going to use and the price was a little higher than the *Milescraft*. I suspect that the two would be interchangeable. But the biggest driver was that I wanted to purchase something that I could get locally so that I could return it easily if it wasn't going to work for this application.
> 
> The *Milescraft Drill 90 *is a right angle drill drive with 1:1 ratio, powder metal bevel gears and bronze bearings. For this application, I didn't feel that the plastic case was a detractor because of the intermittent usage, low rotational speeds, and low stress mounting design. The integral chuck would be ideal for gripping the extended *Tilt Shaft *without having to fabricate or purchase any other adapters. This is not a precision device, but it is more than adequate for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Designing and Packaging the Drive Train
> *
> 
> Having selected my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy*, I was ready to develop a design for the rest of the drive train, which would meet my previously specified criteria, and a way to package it.
> 
> *Design Criteria*
> 
> • Low Cost
> • Simple Configuration
> • Use Available Components
> • Accommodate Possible Shaft Misalignment
> • Reduce or Eliminate Lubrication
> • Retain Original Handwheel Attachment
> • Be Contained within the Envelope of the Saw Table and Fence Rail
> 
> The photo below is what I came up with for the *Right Angle Drive *train. Note that the *Part 15 *is already installed in the new *Tilt Shaft.*
> 
> *Correction*: It has been pointed out to me that some of the parts in the *Drive Train *have been shown out of order in the photo below: Parts *#8 & #12 *should be shown *between *the two* #11 Flange Bearings.* These parts are shown in the correct position in the parts installation photos and in the *Concept Drawing.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned before, I intended to purchase the *Tilt Shaft*, *Roll Pin*, and *Cover Plate *as *Ridgid *replacement parts. Some of the other specialized parts, such as the *Flex Coupling* components and *Shaft Collars *were purchased from *McMaster-Carr * online. The other hardware items were purchased at local hardware outlets.
> 
> As a side note, I highly recommend *McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com)* as a source for almost any hardware item you can think of. Their prices are competitive, fast order turnaround, and very reasonable shipping rates. They also have some of the best prices I have found for thin wall PVC S&D ducting fittings, including 6" sizes, for DC system fabrication.
> 
> The photo below shows the drive train components assembled in their relative positions similar to the actual installation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Coupling Nut *was an easy way to attach an extension to the existing *Tilt Shaft *projecting from the side of the saw cabinet. The extension shaft was the shank from an *8mm *hex head bolt. The *Jamb Nuts * lock the *Coupling Nut * in place to prevent loosening. The round shank of the extension shaft would be easy to secure in the *Right Angle Drive *chuck.
> 
> I incorporated the *Flex Coupling*, a low priced assembly, to minimize the effects of misalignment between the *Right Angle Drive *and the new *Tilt Shaft*. I was delighted to find that *McMaster-Carr *carried the necessary components to permit joining the *3/8"* shaft on the *Right Angle Drive *with the new *10mm Tilt Shaft*!(Would that be called a *Multi-national* connection?) The *Spider * is a Buna - N rubber component that couples the two metal hubs and provides a small measure of flexibility.
> 
> The *Shaft Collars *were incorporated to prevent any lateral movement of the new *Tilt Shaft*. Operating the *Tilt Handwheel *could tend to push the new *Tilt Shaft *inward, putting unwanted stress on the *Right **Angle Drive*. Conversely, locking the handwheel with the *Bar Knob* would tend to pull the new *Tilt Shaft *outward, disengaging the *Flex Coupling*.
> 
> The *Spyraflo Flange Bearings* are a unique design in that the bearing surfaces are made from *Acetal (Delrin), *an engineered plastic material that is widely used in industry for low load bearing, low friction, precision bearings. These bearings are also self aligning and will tolerate up to 5º misalignment - a low cost product with amazing specifications! The *Acetal *bearing material is a product with a low coefficient of friction and requires no additional lubrication.
> 
> The flat steel and nylon washers were provided to produce low friction, rotational "thrust" bearing surfaces.
> 
> *Right Angle Drive Train Installation*
> 
> As shown below, a three-sided, open top (and bottom) box was fabricated and attached to the inside of the back and the right side of the storage cabinet. So that the storage cabinet would fit tightly against the saw cabinet, a counterbore was drilled in the outside of the storage cabinet back to accommodate the thickness of the original *Cover Plate*. An oversize hole was drilled thru the cabinet back to allow access to tighten the rear *Jamb Nut*. The photo shows the *Coupling Nut *with the extended *Tilt Shaft *and *Jamb Nuts *installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below shows the *Milescraft Drill 90 Right Angle Drill Drive* installed on the extended *Tilt Shaft*. Note the oversize access hole in the side of the cabinet to allow clearance for installation and removal of the *Right Angle Drive* with the *Flex Coupling Hub* installed. The *Right Angle Drive Hub* was approximately centered in the side opening. The open top and bottom of the enclosure allowed tightening of the chuck on the shaft extension. I chose to leave the angle drive handle attachment bolt through the housing in place. I had originally considered using the bolt to attach the drive, but found it wasn't necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As shown in the following photo, a separate external enclosure was built for mounting the *Flange Bearings *and housing the rest of the drive components. The bearing supports were fabricated and drilled as a matched pair, minimizing alignment problems. Note that the *Flex Coupling *is clearly visible and that the two *Shaft Collars *sandwich the flat anti- friction washers and the *Inner Flange Bearing*. These components were installed with full engagement of the *Flex Coupling *components and adjusted to produce minimal lateral movement of the new *Tilt Shaft*, while maintaining free rotation. Note the *Right Angle Drive * is unattached on one end, constrained only by the *Flex Coupling *- this design minimizes the stress applied to the *Right Angle Drive *in operation. The *Flex Coupling *is self adjusting, accommodating any minor misalignment of components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After installation of the drive train components, the external box position was adjusted visually to produce the best alignment of the *Flex Coupling*, minimizlng misalignment between the *Right Angle Drive *and the new *Tilt Shaft*, and clamped in place. Permanent attachment of the external box to the cabinet side was then done with screws from inside the storage cabinet.
> 
> The external surfaces of the box were covered with 5mm Birch underlayment plywood to improve appearance. I didn't like the appearance of a square box that looked like it was just stuck to the side of the storage cabinet, so I added some sloped panels to make it more aesthetic- strictly foo foo-they serve no other purpose other than to make it harder for dust to stick to them. A removable access panel was incorporated into the side of the box to allow installation, removal, and adjustment of the drive train components.
> 
> The photo below shows the *Outside Flange Bearing *installation. The pairs of *Flange Bearing *mounting holes were oriented at 90º to each other. Note the screwdriver access holes for installation of the *Inner Flange Bearing *mounting screws. The *Cover Plate*, not shown in the photo, was installed over the large hole in the face of the enclosure. Installation of the *Access Cover*, *Tilt Handwheel*, and the *Bar Knob *completed the assembly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Relocated Tilt Handwheel*
> 
> So for all of you folks who have been waiting with bated breath………..here is what the *Front-Mounted Relocated Tilt Handwheel* looks like! It is totally contained within the envelope of the front overhang of the table and fence rail and the front of the storage cabinet. In addition, there is no interference with adjacent front-mounted machine components, such as the *Power Switch*, *Elevation Handwheel*, and *Tilt Indicator*. The *Relocated Tilt Handwheel* operates smoothly, with no more effort than when it was mounted on the side of the saw - but it sure is a heck of a lot handier to use!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Handwheel Twins*
> 
> Kinda looks like a poor man's version of the new *Delta Unisaw*……………..!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Bits and Pieces and $$*
> 
> So now your next questions are going to be, *"What are the parts? Where can I buy them? and What do they cost?"* So here are some answers. You may find that substituting other parts will work just as well. Keep in mind that these are the parts I used for the *Model R4511 *- *doing a similar modification to another saw may require different parts and hardware, especially for adapting to the existing tilt shaft.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *What If My R4511 Doesn't Have a Storage Cabinet or I Have a Different Saw?
> *
> The obvious answer is 1) you could add one, or 2) you could find a *Model 4511 *on Craigslist and change saws……………!!
> 
> But let me suggest a third alternative for relocating the *Tilt Handwheel *to the front of *almost any tablesaw*.
> 
> Firstly, purchase the component parts listed above or equivalents to fit your particular saw. Altho the *Flex Coupling *could be omitted, I would recommend including it because working with wood usually isn't as precise as dealing with metal components, although with care it can be done.
> 
> Secondly, design and build a suitable enclosure for the drive components you have selected. Sometimes it is best to have the hardware in hand before fabricating anything so that you can be sure that everything is going to fit together.
> 
> As a starting point design, you might consider the concept below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would add a thin plywood or hardboard cover to the top and bottom to increase the rigidity of the enclosure and preclude dust and debris. At least one of the two covers should be removable to allow access for installation and removal of the drive train components. I would also make the two sides of the enclosure adjacent to the saw cabinet at 1 to 2 inches larger top and bottom to provide a flange for attachment of the enclosure to the saw cabinet.
> 
> *WARNING!!* This is *only *a conceptual drawing-the actual dimensions of the enclosure and the placing of components will depend upon the configuration of your saw and the drive train components selected.
> 
> Well, we have finally come to the end of this chapter. But, stay tuned…........there's more to come!
> 
> This phase of the equipment upgrade was an interesting one for me- and will be right up there near the top of my favorite changes to this tablesaw. One of the things that delights me the most is that I was able to put it together with available parts and wood scraps in the shop. And the only part alteration was to cut off the head of the bolt I used for the extension shaft and cut off the excess length of the purchased Tilt Shaft. I hope others will find this information useful. If so, please let me know-and be sure to show us some pictures if you decide to take this adventure…................
> 
> Please feel free to leave comments or constructive suggestions. All questions will be answered. And if you find any errors in the material callouts or part numbers, etc., please let me know so I can make corrections.


Hi jaydubya,

Sorry, you lost me-since this modification *does *make the handwheel come out the front of the saw, I assume you mean out the front of the saw cabinet without having an accessory enclosure on the side. If that is the case, it would probably be much more difficult, since you would have to work within the confines of the cabinet and worse yet somehow get around the internal mechanisms-trunnions, tilt and elevation worm drives and quadrants, motor and mounting, etc. Probably not impossible, but I would think *very* challenging.


----------



## jaydubya

paulnwa said:


> *Relocated Tilt Handwheel -- Finally Making It Happen*
> 
> *My Turn-The-Corner-Thingy Selection*
> 
> My first choice was to use a small right angle gearbox, but I was unable to come up with any miniature ones with my Google searches. Fellow LJer *DIYaholic *pointed out some really skookum looking ones yesterday from sources that I somehow missed when I was searching. (Thanks, Randy - I tucked those references away in my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy* file for future projects.) Had I seen them, I might have gone that direction. The only right angle gearboxes I could find were too large and cost half as much as my saw!
> 
> But in spite of that, my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy* quest has come to a successful conclusion! The winner is the *Milescraft Drill 90 Right Angle Drill Drive*,* Model #1390*, which I purchased at my local *Lowes *store for less than $20. That said, there are other similar products that would probably work just as well, such as the compact *Milescraft Drive 90 #1302* suggested yesterday by LJer *Kiefer*. Please don't let my choices limit your thinking.
> 
> Note that my selected *Milescraft *product is very similar to the *Vermont-American Model 17172* suggested by LJer *DIYaholic *yesterday. I had seen this *V-A *model on *Amazon.com*, but it had some accessories that I knew I wasn't going to use and the price was a little higher than the *Milescraft*. I suspect that the two would be interchangeable. But the biggest driver was that I wanted to purchase something that I could get locally so that I could return it easily if it wasn't going to work for this application.
> 
> The *Milescraft Drill 90 *is a right angle drill drive with 1:1 ratio, powder metal bevel gears and bronze bearings. For this application, I didn't feel that the plastic case was a detractor because of the intermittent usage, low rotational speeds, and low stress mounting design. The integral chuck would be ideal for gripping the extended *Tilt Shaft *without having to fabricate or purchase any other adapters. This is not a precision device, but it is more than adequate for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Designing and Packaging the Drive Train
> *
> 
> Having selected my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy*, I was ready to develop a design for the rest of the drive train, which would meet my previously specified criteria, and a way to package it.
> 
> *Design Criteria*
> 
> • Low Cost
> • Simple Configuration
> • Use Available Components
> • Accommodate Possible Shaft Misalignment
> • Reduce or Eliminate Lubrication
> • Retain Original Handwheel Attachment
> • Be Contained within the Envelope of the Saw Table and Fence Rail
> 
> The photo below is what I came up with for the *Right Angle Drive *train. Note that the *Part 15 *is already installed in the new *Tilt Shaft.*
> 
> *Correction*: It has been pointed out to me that some of the parts in the *Drive Train *have been shown out of order in the photo below: Parts *#8 & #12 *should be shown *between *the two* #11 Flange Bearings.* These parts are shown in the correct position in the parts installation photos and in the *Concept Drawing.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned before, I intended to purchase the *Tilt Shaft*, *Roll Pin*, and *Cover Plate *as *Ridgid *replacement parts. Some of the other specialized parts, such as the *Flex Coupling* components and *Shaft Collars *were purchased from *McMaster-Carr * online. The other hardware items were purchased at local hardware outlets.
> 
> As a side note, I highly recommend *McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com)* as a source for almost any hardware item you can think of. Their prices are competitive, fast order turnaround, and very reasonable shipping rates. They also have some of the best prices I have found for thin wall PVC S&D ducting fittings, including 6" sizes, for DC system fabrication.
> 
> The photo below shows the drive train components assembled in their relative positions similar to the actual installation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Coupling Nut *was an easy way to attach an extension to the existing *Tilt Shaft *projecting from the side of the saw cabinet. The extension shaft was the shank from an *8mm *hex head bolt. The *Jamb Nuts * lock the *Coupling Nut * in place to prevent loosening. The round shank of the extension shaft would be easy to secure in the *Right Angle Drive *chuck.
> 
> I incorporated the *Flex Coupling*, a low priced assembly, to minimize the effects of misalignment between the *Right Angle Drive *and the new *Tilt Shaft*. I was delighted to find that *McMaster-Carr *carried the necessary components to permit joining the *3/8"* shaft on the *Right Angle Drive *with the new *10mm Tilt Shaft*!(Would that be called a *Multi-national* connection?) The *Spider * is a Buna - N rubber component that couples the two metal hubs and provides a small measure of flexibility.
> 
> The *Shaft Collars *were incorporated to prevent any lateral movement of the new *Tilt Shaft*. Operating the *Tilt Handwheel *could tend to push the new *Tilt Shaft *inward, putting unwanted stress on the *Right **Angle Drive*. Conversely, locking the handwheel with the *Bar Knob* would tend to pull the new *Tilt Shaft *outward, disengaging the *Flex Coupling*.
> 
> The *Spyraflo Flange Bearings* are a unique design in that the bearing surfaces are made from *Acetal (Delrin), *an engineered plastic material that is widely used in industry for low load bearing, low friction, precision bearings. These bearings are also self aligning and will tolerate up to 5º misalignment - a low cost product with amazing specifications! The *Acetal *bearing material is a product with a low coefficient of friction and requires no additional lubrication.
> 
> The flat steel and nylon washers were provided to produce low friction, rotational "thrust" bearing surfaces.
> 
> *Right Angle Drive Train Installation*
> 
> As shown below, a three-sided, open top (and bottom) box was fabricated and attached to the inside of the back and the right side of the storage cabinet. So that the storage cabinet would fit tightly against the saw cabinet, a counterbore was drilled in the outside of the storage cabinet back to accommodate the thickness of the original *Cover Plate*. An oversize hole was drilled thru the cabinet back to allow access to tighten the rear *Jamb Nut*. The photo shows the *Coupling Nut *with the extended *Tilt Shaft *and *Jamb Nuts *installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below shows the *Milescraft Drill 90 Right Angle Drill Drive* installed on the extended *Tilt Shaft*. Note the oversize access hole in the side of the cabinet to allow clearance for installation and removal of the *Right Angle Drive* with the *Flex Coupling Hub* installed. The *Right Angle Drive Hub* was approximately centered in the side opening. The open top and bottom of the enclosure allowed tightening of the chuck on the shaft extension. I chose to leave the angle drive handle attachment bolt through the housing in place. I had originally considered using the bolt to attach the drive, but found it wasn't necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As shown in the following photo, a separate external enclosure was built for mounting the *Flange Bearings *and housing the rest of the drive components. The bearing supports were fabricated and drilled as a matched pair, minimizing alignment problems. Note that the *Flex Coupling *is clearly visible and that the two *Shaft Collars *sandwich the flat anti- friction washers and the *Inner Flange Bearing*. These components were installed with full engagement of the *Flex Coupling *components and adjusted to produce minimal lateral movement of the new *Tilt Shaft*, while maintaining free rotation. Note the *Right Angle Drive * is unattached on one end, constrained only by the *Flex Coupling *- this design minimizes the stress applied to the *Right Angle Drive *in operation. The *Flex Coupling *is self adjusting, accommodating any minor misalignment of components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After installation of the drive train components, the external box position was adjusted visually to produce the best alignment of the *Flex Coupling*, minimizlng misalignment between the *Right Angle Drive *and the new *Tilt Shaft*, and clamped in place. Permanent attachment of the external box to the cabinet side was then done with screws from inside the storage cabinet.
> 
> The external surfaces of the box were covered with 5mm Birch underlayment plywood to improve appearance. I didn't like the appearance of a square box that looked like it was just stuck to the side of the storage cabinet, so I added some sloped panels to make it more aesthetic- strictly foo foo-they serve no other purpose other than to make it harder for dust to stick to them. A removable access panel was incorporated into the side of the box to allow installation, removal, and adjustment of the drive train components.
> 
> The photo below shows the *Outside Flange Bearing *installation. The pairs of *Flange Bearing *mounting holes were oriented at 90º to each other. Note the screwdriver access holes for installation of the *Inner Flange Bearing *mounting screws. The *Cover Plate*, not shown in the photo, was installed over the large hole in the face of the enclosure. Installation of the *Access Cover*, *Tilt Handwheel*, and the *Bar Knob *completed the assembly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Relocated Tilt Handwheel*
> 
> So for all of you folks who have been waiting with bated breath………..here is what the *Front-Mounted Relocated Tilt Handwheel* looks like! It is totally contained within the envelope of the front overhang of the table and fence rail and the front of the storage cabinet. In addition, there is no interference with adjacent front-mounted machine components, such as the *Power Switch*, *Elevation Handwheel*, and *Tilt Indicator*. The *Relocated Tilt Handwheel* operates smoothly, with no more effort than when it was mounted on the side of the saw - but it sure is a heck of a lot handier to use!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Handwheel Twins*
> 
> Kinda looks like a poor man's version of the new *Delta Unisaw*……………..!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Bits and Pieces and $$*
> 
> So now your next questions are going to be, *"What are the parts? Where can I buy them? and What do they cost?"* So here are some answers. You may find that substituting other parts will work just as well. Keep in mind that these are the parts I used for the *Model R4511 *- *doing a similar modification to another saw may require different parts and hardware, especially for adapting to the existing tilt shaft.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *What If My R4511 Doesn't Have a Storage Cabinet or I Have a Different Saw?
> *
> The obvious answer is 1) you could add one, or 2) you could find a *Model 4511 *on Craigslist and change saws……………!!
> 
> But let me suggest a third alternative for relocating the *Tilt Handwheel *to the front of *almost any tablesaw*.
> 
> Firstly, purchase the component parts listed above or equivalents to fit your particular saw. Altho the *Flex Coupling *could be omitted, I would recommend including it because working with wood usually isn't as precise as dealing with metal components, although with care it can be done.
> 
> Secondly, design and build a suitable enclosure for the drive components you have selected. Sometimes it is best to have the hardware in hand before fabricating anything so that you can be sure that everything is going to fit together.
> 
> As a starting point design, you might consider the concept below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would add a thin plywood or hardboard cover to the top and bottom to increase the rigidity of the enclosure and preclude dust and debris. At least one of the two covers should be removable to allow access for installation and removal of the drive train components. I would also make the two sides of the enclosure adjacent to the saw cabinet at 1 to 2 inches larger top and bottom to provide a flange for attachment of the enclosure to the saw cabinet.
> 
> *WARNING!!* This is *only *a conceptual drawing-the actual dimensions of the enclosure and the placing of components will depend upon the configuration of your saw and the drive train components selected.
> 
> Well, we have finally come to the end of this chapter. But, stay tuned…........there's more to come!
> 
> This phase of the equipment upgrade was an interesting one for me- and will be right up there near the top of my favorite changes to this tablesaw. One of the things that delights me the most is that I was able to put it together with available parts and wood scraps in the shop. And the only part alteration was to cut off the head of the bolt I used for the extension shaft and cut off the excess length of the purchased Tilt Shaft. I hope others will find this information useful. If so, please let me know-and be sure to show us some pictures if you decide to take this adventure…................
> 
> Please feel free to leave comments or constructive suggestions. All questions will be answered. And if you find any errors in the material callouts or part numbers, etc., please let me know so I can make corrections.


Yes, I was talking about the saw cabinet itself. My tilt handwheel actually comes out the right side of the saw so Im wondering if it wouldnt be a little easier


----------



## paulnwa

paulnwa said:


> *Relocated Tilt Handwheel -- Finally Making It Happen*
> 
> *My Turn-The-Corner-Thingy Selection*
> 
> My first choice was to use a small right angle gearbox, but I was unable to come up with any miniature ones with my Google searches. Fellow LJer *DIYaholic *pointed out some really skookum looking ones yesterday from sources that I somehow missed when I was searching. (Thanks, Randy - I tucked those references away in my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy* file for future projects.) Had I seen them, I might have gone that direction. The only right angle gearboxes I could find were too large and cost half as much as my saw!
> 
> But in spite of that, my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy* quest has come to a successful conclusion! The winner is the *Milescraft Drill 90 Right Angle Drill Drive*,* Model #1390*, which I purchased at my local *Lowes *store for less than $20. That said, there are other similar products that would probably work just as well, such as the compact *Milescraft Drive 90 #1302* suggested yesterday by LJer *Kiefer*. Please don't let my choices limit your thinking.
> 
> Note that my selected *Milescraft *product is very similar to the *Vermont-American Model 17172* suggested by LJer *DIYaholic *yesterday. I had seen this *V-A *model on *Amazon.com*, but it had some accessories that I knew I wasn't going to use and the price was a little higher than the *Milescraft*. I suspect that the two would be interchangeable. But the biggest driver was that I wanted to purchase something that I could get locally so that I could return it easily if it wasn't going to work for this application.
> 
> The *Milescraft Drill 90 *is a right angle drill drive with 1:1 ratio, powder metal bevel gears and bronze bearings. For this application, I didn't feel that the plastic case was a detractor because of the intermittent usage, low rotational speeds, and low stress mounting design. The integral chuck would be ideal for gripping the extended *Tilt Shaft *without having to fabricate or purchase any other adapters. This is not a precision device, but it is more than adequate for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Designing and Packaging the Drive Train
> *
> 
> Having selected my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy*, I was ready to develop a design for the rest of the drive train, which would meet my previously specified criteria, and a way to package it.
> 
> *Design Criteria*
> 
> • Low Cost
> • Simple Configuration
> • Use Available Components
> • Accommodate Possible Shaft Misalignment
> • Reduce or Eliminate Lubrication
> • Retain Original Handwheel Attachment
> • Be Contained within the Envelope of the Saw Table and Fence Rail
> 
> The photo below is what I came up with for the *Right Angle Drive *train. Note that the *Part 15 *is already installed in the new *Tilt Shaft.*
> 
> *Correction*: It has been pointed out to me that some of the parts in the *Drive Train *have been shown out of order in the photo below: Parts *#8 & #12 *should be shown *between *the two* #11 Flange Bearings.* These parts are shown in the correct position in the parts installation photos and in the *Concept Drawing.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned before, I intended to purchase the *Tilt Shaft*, *Roll Pin*, and *Cover Plate *as *Ridgid *replacement parts. Some of the other specialized parts, such as the *Flex Coupling* components and *Shaft Collars *were purchased from *McMaster-Carr * online. The other hardware items were purchased at local hardware outlets.
> 
> As a side note, I highly recommend *McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com)* as a source for almost any hardware item you can think of. Their prices are competitive, fast order turnaround, and very reasonable shipping rates. They also have some of the best prices I have found for thin wall PVC S&D ducting fittings, including 6" sizes, for DC system fabrication.
> 
> The photo below shows the drive train components assembled in their relative positions similar to the actual installation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Coupling Nut *was an easy way to attach an extension to the existing *Tilt Shaft *projecting from the side of the saw cabinet. The extension shaft was the shank from an *8mm *hex head bolt. The *Jamb Nuts * lock the *Coupling Nut * in place to prevent loosening. The round shank of the extension shaft would be easy to secure in the *Right Angle Drive *chuck.
> 
> I incorporated the *Flex Coupling*, a low priced assembly, to minimize the effects of misalignment between the *Right Angle Drive *and the new *Tilt Shaft*. I was delighted to find that *McMaster-Carr *carried the necessary components to permit joining the *3/8"* shaft on the *Right Angle Drive *with the new *10mm Tilt Shaft*!(Would that be called a *Multi-national* connection?) The *Spider * is a Buna - N rubber component that couples the two metal hubs and provides a small measure of flexibility.
> 
> The *Shaft Collars *were incorporated to prevent any lateral movement of the new *Tilt Shaft*. Operating the *Tilt Handwheel *could tend to push the new *Tilt Shaft *inward, putting unwanted stress on the *Right **Angle Drive*. Conversely, locking the handwheel with the *Bar Knob* would tend to pull the new *Tilt Shaft *outward, disengaging the *Flex Coupling*.
> 
> The *Spyraflo Flange Bearings* are a unique design in that the bearing surfaces are made from *Acetal (Delrin), *an engineered plastic material that is widely used in industry for low load bearing, low friction, precision bearings. These bearings are also self aligning and will tolerate up to 5º misalignment - a low cost product with amazing specifications! The *Acetal *bearing material is a product with a low coefficient of friction and requires no additional lubrication.
> 
> The flat steel and nylon washers were provided to produce low friction, rotational "thrust" bearing surfaces.
> 
> *Right Angle Drive Train Installation*
> 
> As shown below, a three-sided, open top (and bottom) box was fabricated and attached to the inside of the back and the right side of the storage cabinet. So that the storage cabinet would fit tightly against the saw cabinet, a counterbore was drilled in the outside of the storage cabinet back to accommodate the thickness of the original *Cover Plate*. An oversize hole was drilled thru the cabinet back to allow access to tighten the rear *Jamb Nut*. The photo shows the *Coupling Nut *with the extended *Tilt Shaft *and *Jamb Nuts *installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below shows the *Milescraft Drill 90 Right Angle Drill Drive* installed on the extended *Tilt Shaft*. Note the oversize access hole in the side of the cabinet to allow clearance for installation and removal of the *Right Angle Drive* with the *Flex Coupling Hub* installed. The *Right Angle Drive Hub* was approximately centered in the side opening. The open top and bottom of the enclosure allowed tightening of the chuck on the shaft extension. I chose to leave the angle drive handle attachment bolt through the housing in place. I had originally considered using the bolt to attach the drive, but found it wasn't necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As shown in the following photo, a separate external enclosure was built for mounting the *Flange Bearings *and housing the rest of the drive components. The bearing supports were fabricated and drilled as a matched pair, minimizing alignment problems. Note that the *Flex Coupling *is clearly visible and that the two *Shaft Collars *sandwich the flat anti- friction washers and the *Inner Flange Bearing*. These components were installed with full engagement of the *Flex Coupling *components and adjusted to produce minimal lateral movement of the new *Tilt Shaft*, while maintaining free rotation. Note the *Right Angle Drive * is unattached on one end, constrained only by the *Flex Coupling *- this design minimizes the stress applied to the *Right Angle Drive *in operation. The *Flex Coupling *is self adjusting, accommodating any minor misalignment of components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After installation of the drive train components, the external box position was adjusted visually to produce the best alignment of the *Flex Coupling*, minimizlng misalignment between the *Right Angle Drive *and the new *Tilt Shaft*, and clamped in place. Permanent attachment of the external box to the cabinet side was then done with screws from inside the storage cabinet.
> 
> The external surfaces of the box were covered with 5mm Birch underlayment plywood to improve appearance. I didn't like the appearance of a square box that looked like it was just stuck to the side of the storage cabinet, so I added some sloped panels to make it more aesthetic- strictly foo foo-they serve no other purpose other than to make it harder for dust to stick to them. A removable access panel was incorporated into the side of the box to allow installation, removal, and adjustment of the drive train components.
> 
> The photo below shows the *Outside Flange Bearing *installation. The pairs of *Flange Bearing *mounting holes were oriented at 90º to each other. Note the screwdriver access holes for installation of the *Inner Flange Bearing *mounting screws. The *Cover Plate*, not shown in the photo, was installed over the large hole in the face of the enclosure. Installation of the *Access Cover*, *Tilt Handwheel*, and the *Bar Knob *completed the assembly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Relocated Tilt Handwheel*
> 
> So for all of you folks who have been waiting with bated breath………..here is what the *Front-Mounted Relocated Tilt Handwheel* looks like! It is totally contained within the envelope of the front overhang of the table and fence rail and the front of the storage cabinet. In addition, there is no interference with adjacent front-mounted machine components, such as the *Power Switch*, *Elevation Handwheel*, and *Tilt Indicator*. The *Relocated Tilt Handwheel* operates smoothly, with no more effort than when it was mounted on the side of the saw - but it sure is a heck of a lot handier to use!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Handwheel Twins*
> 
> Kinda looks like a poor man's version of the new *Delta Unisaw*……………..!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Bits and Pieces and $$*
> 
> So now your next questions are going to be, *"What are the parts? Where can I buy them? and What do they cost?"* So here are some answers. You may find that substituting other parts will work just as well. Keep in mind that these are the parts I used for the *Model R4511 *- *doing a similar modification to another saw may require different parts and hardware, especially for adapting to the existing tilt shaft.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *What If My R4511 Doesn't Have a Storage Cabinet or I Have a Different Saw?
> *
> The obvious answer is 1) you could add one, or 2) you could find a *Model 4511 *on Craigslist and change saws……………!!
> 
> But let me suggest a third alternative for relocating the *Tilt Handwheel *to the front of *almost any tablesaw*.
> 
> Firstly, purchase the component parts listed above or equivalents to fit your particular saw. Altho the *Flex Coupling *could be omitted, I would recommend including it because working with wood usually isn't as precise as dealing with metal components, although with care it can be done.
> 
> Secondly, design and build a suitable enclosure for the drive components you have selected. Sometimes it is best to have the hardware in hand before fabricating anything so that you can be sure that everything is going to fit together.
> 
> As a starting point design, you might consider the concept below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would add a thin plywood or hardboard cover to the top and bottom to increase the rigidity of the enclosure and preclude dust and debris. At least one of the two covers should be removable to allow access for installation and removal of the drive train components. I would also make the two sides of the enclosure adjacent to the saw cabinet at 1 to 2 inches larger top and bottom to provide a flange for attachment of the enclosure to the saw cabinet.
> 
> *WARNING!!* This is *only *a conceptual drawing-the actual dimensions of the enclosure and the placing of components will depend upon the configuration of your saw and the drive train components selected.
> 
> Well, we have finally come to the end of this chapter. But, stay tuned…........there's more to come!
> 
> This phase of the equipment upgrade was an interesting one for me- and will be right up there near the top of my favorite changes to this tablesaw. One of the things that delights me the most is that I was able to put it together with available parts and wood scraps in the shop. And the only part alteration was to cut off the head of the bolt I used for the extension shaft and cut off the excess length of the purchased Tilt Shaft. I hope others will find this information useful. If so, please let me know-and be sure to show us some pictures if you decide to take this adventure…................
> 
> Please feel free to leave comments or constructive suggestions. All questions will be answered. And if you find any errors in the material callouts or part numbers, etc., please let me know so I can make corrections.


Keep in mind that the concept drawing can be inverted to make it work for a right hand tilt handwheel. However, you would still have an enclosure of some sort on the right side of the saw instead of the left.


----------



## DIYaholic

paulnwa said:


> *Relocated Tilt Handwheel -- Finally Making It Happen*
> 
> *My Turn-The-Corner-Thingy Selection*
> 
> My first choice was to use a small right angle gearbox, but I was unable to come up with any miniature ones with my Google searches. Fellow LJer *DIYaholic *pointed out some really skookum looking ones yesterday from sources that I somehow missed when I was searching. (Thanks, Randy - I tucked those references away in my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy* file for future projects.) Had I seen them, I might have gone that direction. The only right angle gearboxes I could find were too large and cost half as much as my saw!
> 
> But in spite of that, my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy* quest has come to a successful conclusion! The winner is the *Milescraft Drill 90 Right Angle Drill Drive*,* Model #1390*, which I purchased at my local *Lowes *store for less than $20. That said, there are other similar products that would probably work just as well, such as the compact *Milescraft Drive 90 #1302* suggested yesterday by LJer *Kiefer*. Please don't let my choices limit your thinking.
> 
> Note that my selected *Milescraft *product is very similar to the *Vermont-American Model 17172* suggested by LJer *DIYaholic *yesterday. I had seen this *V-A *model on *Amazon.com*, but it had some accessories that I knew I wasn't going to use and the price was a little higher than the *Milescraft*. I suspect that the two would be interchangeable. But the biggest driver was that I wanted to purchase something that I could get locally so that I could return it easily if it wasn't going to work for this application.
> 
> The *Milescraft Drill 90 *is a right angle drill drive with 1:1 ratio, powder metal bevel gears and bronze bearings. For this application, I didn't feel that the plastic case was a detractor because of the intermittent usage, low rotational speeds, and low stress mounting design. The integral chuck would be ideal for gripping the extended *Tilt Shaft *without having to fabricate or purchase any other adapters. This is not a precision device, but it is more than adequate for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Designing and Packaging the Drive Train
> *
> 
> Having selected my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy*, I was ready to develop a design for the rest of the drive train, which would meet my previously specified criteria, and a way to package it.
> 
> *Design Criteria*
> 
> • Low Cost
> • Simple Configuration
> • Use Available Components
> • Accommodate Possible Shaft Misalignment
> • Reduce or Eliminate Lubrication
> • Retain Original Handwheel Attachment
> • Be Contained within the Envelope of the Saw Table and Fence Rail
> 
> The photo below is what I came up with for the *Right Angle Drive *train. Note that the *Part 15 *is already installed in the new *Tilt Shaft.*
> 
> *Correction*: It has been pointed out to me that some of the parts in the *Drive Train *have been shown out of order in the photo below: Parts *#8 & #12 *should be shown *between *the two* #11 Flange Bearings.* These parts are shown in the correct position in the parts installation photos and in the *Concept Drawing.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned before, I intended to purchase the *Tilt Shaft*, *Roll Pin*, and *Cover Plate *as *Ridgid *replacement parts. Some of the other specialized parts, such as the *Flex Coupling* components and *Shaft Collars *were purchased from *McMaster-Carr * online. The other hardware items were purchased at local hardware outlets.
> 
> As a side note, I highly recommend *McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com)* as a source for almost any hardware item you can think of. Their prices are competitive, fast order turnaround, and very reasonable shipping rates. They also have some of the best prices I have found for thin wall PVC S&D ducting fittings, including 6" sizes, for DC system fabrication.
> 
> The photo below shows the drive train components assembled in their relative positions similar to the actual installation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Coupling Nut *was an easy way to attach an extension to the existing *Tilt Shaft *projecting from the side of the saw cabinet. The extension shaft was the shank from an *8mm *hex head bolt. The *Jamb Nuts * lock the *Coupling Nut * in place to prevent loosening. The round shank of the extension shaft would be easy to secure in the *Right Angle Drive *chuck.
> 
> I incorporated the *Flex Coupling*, a low priced assembly, to minimize the effects of misalignment between the *Right Angle Drive *and the new *Tilt Shaft*. I was delighted to find that *McMaster-Carr *carried the necessary components to permit joining the *3/8"* shaft on the *Right Angle Drive *with the new *10mm Tilt Shaft*!(Would that be called a *Multi-national* connection?) The *Spider * is a Buna - N rubber component that couples the two metal hubs and provides a small measure of flexibility.
> 
> The *Shaft Collars *were incorporated to prevent any lateral movement of the new *Tilt Shaft*. Operating the *Tilt Handwheel *could tend to push the new *Tilt Shaft *inward, putting unwanted stress on the *Right **Angle Drive*. Conversely, locking the handwheel with the *Bar Knob* would tend to pull the new *Tilt Shaft *outward, disengaging the *Flex Coupling*.
> 
> The *Spyraflo Flange Bearings* are a unique design in that the bearing surfaces are made from *Acetal (Delrin), *an engineered plastic material that is widely used in industry for low load bearing, low friction, precision bearings. These bearings are also self aligning and will tolerate up to 5º misalignment - a low cost product with amazing specifications! The *Acetal *bearing material is a product with a low coefficient of friction and requires no additional lubrication.
> 
> The flat steel and nylon washers were provided to produce low friction, rotational "thrust" bearing surfaces.
> 
> *Right Angle Drive Train Installation*
> 
> As shown below, a three-sided, open top (and bottom) box was fabricated and attached to the inside of the back and the right side of the storage cabinet. So that the storage cabinet would fit tightly against the saw cabinet, a counterbore was drilled in the outside of the storage cabinet back to accommodate the thickness of the original *Cover Plate*. An oversize hole was drilled thru the cabinet back to allow access to tighten the rear *Jamb Nut*. The photo shows the *Coupling Nut *with the extended *Tilt Shaft *and *Jamb Nuts *installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below shows the *Milescraft Drill 90 Right Angle Drill Drive* installed on the extended *Tilt Shaft*. Note the oversize access hole in the side of the cabinet to allow clearance for installation and removal of the *Right Angle Drive* with the *Flex Coupling Hub* installed. The *Right Angle Drive Hub* was approximately centered in the side opening. The open top and bottom of the enclosure allowed tightening of the chuck on the shaft extension. I chose to leave the angle drive handle attachment bolt through the housing in place. I had originally considered using the bolt to attach the drive, but found it wasn't necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As shown in the following photo, a separate external enclosure was built for mounting the *Flange Bearings *and housing the rest of the drive components. The bearing supports were fabricated and drilled as a matched pair, minimizing alignment problems. Note that the *Flex Coupling *is clearly visible and that the two *Shaft Collars *sandwich the flat anti- friction washers and the *Inner Flange Bearing*. These components were installed with full engagement of the *Flex Coupling *components and adjusted to produce minimal lateral movement of the new *Tilt Shaft*, while maintaining free rotation. Note the *Right Angle Drive * is unattached on one end, constrained only by the *Flex Coupling *- this design minimizes the stress applied to the *Right Angle Drive *in operation. The *Flex Coupling *is self adjusting, accommodating any minor misalignment of components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After installation of the drive train components, the external box position was adjusted visually to produce the best alignment of the *Flex Coupling*, minimizlng misalignment between the *Right Angle Drive *and the new *Tilt Shaft*, and clamped in place. Permanent attachment of the external box to the cabinet side was then done with screws from inside the storage cabinet.
> 
> The external surfaces of the box were covered with 5mm Birch underlayment plywood to improve appearance. I didn't like the appearance of a square box that looked like it was just stuck to the side of the storage cabinet, so I added some sloped panels to make it more aesthetic- strictly foo foo-they serve no other purpose other than to make it harder for dust to stick to them. A removable access panel was incorporated into the side of the box to allow installation, removal, and adjustment of the drive train components.
> 
> The photo below shows the *Outside Flange Bearing *installation. The pairs of *Flange Bearing *mounting holes were oriented at 90º to each other. Note the screwdriver access holes for installation of the *Inner Flange Bearing *mounting screws. The *Cover Plate*, not shown in the photo, was installed over the large hole in the face of the enclosure. Installation of the *Access Cover*, *Tilt Handwheel*, and the *Bar Knob *completed the assembly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Relocated Tilt Handwheel*
> 
> So for all of you folks who have been waiting with bated breath………..here is what the *Front-Mounted Relocated Tilt Handwheel* looks like! It is totally contained within the envelope of the front overhang of the table and fence rail and the front of the storage cabinet. In addition, there is no interference with adjacent front-mounted machine components, such as the *Power Switch*, *Elevation Handwheel*, and *Tilt Indicator*. The *Relocated Tilt Handwheel* operates smoothly, with no more effort than when it was mounted on the side of the saw - but it sure is a heck of a lot handier to use!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Handwheel Twins*
> 
> Kinda looks like a poor man's version of the new *Delta Unisaw*……………..!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Bits and Pieces and $$*
> 
> So now your next questions are going to be, *"What are the parts? Where can I buy them? and What do they cost?"* So here are some answers. You may find that substituting other parts will work just as well. Keep in mind that these are the parts I used for the *Model R4511 *- *doing a similar modification to another saw may require different parts and hardware, especially for adapting to the existing tilt shaft.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *What If My R4511 Doesn't Have a Storage Cabinet or I Have a Different Saw?
> *
> The obvious answer is 1) you could add one, or 2) you could find a *Model 4511 *on Craigslist and change saws……………!!
> 
> But let me suggest a third alternative for relocating the *Tilt Handwheel *to the front of *almost any tablesaw*.
> 
> Firstly, purchase the component parts listed above or equivalents to fit your particular saw. Altho the *Flex Coupling *could be omitted, I would recommend including it because working with wood usually isn't as precise as dealing with metal components, although with care it can be done.
> 
> Secondly, design and build a suitable enclosure for the drive components you have selected. Sometimes it is best to have the hardware in hand before fabricating anything so that you can be sure that everything is going to fit together.
> 
> As a starting point design, you might consider the concept below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would add a thin plywood or hardboard cover to the top and bottom to increase the rigidity of the enclosure and preclude dust and debris. At least one of the two covers should be removable to allow access for installation and removal of the drive train components. I would also make the two sides of the enclosure adjacent to the saw cabinet at 1 to 2 inches larger top and bottom to provide a flange for attachment of the enclosure to the saw cabinet.
> 
> *WARNING!!* This is *only *a conceptual drawing-the actual dimensions of the enclosure and the placing of components will depend upon the configuration of your saw and the drive train components selected.
> 
> Well, we have finally come to the end of this chapter. But, stay tuned…........there's more to come!
> 
> This phase of the equipment upgrade was an interesting one for me- and will be right up there near the top of my favorite changes to this tablesaw. One of the things that delights me the most is that I was able to put it together with available parts and wood scraps in the shop. And the only part alteration was to cut off the head of the bolt I used for the extension shaft and cut off the excess length of the purchased Tilt Shaft. I hope others will find this information useful. If so, please let me know-and be sure to show us some pictures if you decide to take this adventure…................
> 
> Please feel free to leave comments or constructive suggestions. All questions will be answered. And if you find any errors in the material callouts or part numbers, etc., please let me know so I can make corrections.


Paul,

I am finding your blog very informative and entertaining. Your explanations, documentation and tips/insights are engaging and well written. I am truly enjoying looking over your shoulder as you upgrade your saw into a design & engineering work of art.
You have talent! Please keep up the excellent work. I eagerly await your next installment…...

With that being said, I still need a new tablesaw!


----------



## paulnwa

paulnwa said:


> *Relocated Tilt Handwheel -- Finally Making It Happen*
> 
> *My Turn-The-Corner-Thingy Selection*
> 
> My first choice was to use a small right angle gearbox, but I was unable to come up with any miniature ones with my Google searches. Fellow LJer *DIYaholic *pointed out some really skookum looking ones yesterday from sources that I somehow missed when I was searching. (Thanks, Randy - I tucked those references away in my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy* file for future projects.) Had I seen them, I might have gone that direction. The only right angle gearboxes I could find were too large and cost half as much as my saw!
> 
> But in spite of that, my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy* quest has come to a successful conclusion! The winner is the *Milescraft Drill 90 Right Angle Drill Drive*,* Model #1390*, which I purchased at my local *Lowes *store for less than $20. That said, there are other similar products that would probably work just as well, such as the compact *Milescraft Drive 90 #1302* suggested yesterday by LJer *Kiefer*. Please don't let my choices limit your thinking.
> 
> Note that my selected *Milescraft *product is very similar to the *Vermont-American Model 17172* suggested by LJer *DIYaholic *yesterday. I had seen this *V-A *model on *Amazon.com*, but it had some accessories that I knew I wasn't going to use and the price was a little higher than the *Milescraft*. I suspect that the two would be interchangeable. But the biggest driver was that I wanted to purchase something that I could get locally so that I could return it easily if it wasn't going to work for this application.
> 
> The *Milescraft Drill 90 *is a right angle drill drive with 1:1 ratio, powder metal bevel gears and bronze bearings. For this application, I didn't feel that the plastic case was a detractor because of the intermittent usage, low rotational speeds, and low stress mounting design. The integral chuck would be ideal for gripping the extended *Tilt Shaft *without having to fabricate or purchase any other adapters. This is not a precision device, but it is more than adequate for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Designing and Packaging the Drive Train
> *
> 
> Having selected my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy*, I was ready to develop a design for the rest of the drive train, which would meet my previously specified criteria, and a way to package it.
> 
> *Design Criteria*
> 
> • Low Cost
> • Simple Configuration
> • Use Available Components
> • Accommodate Possible Shaft Misalignment
> • Reduce or Eliminate Lubrication
> • Retain Original Handwheel Attachment
> • Be Contained within the Envelope of the Saw Table and Fence Rail
> 
> The photo below is what I came up with for the *Right Angle Drive *train. Note that the *Part 15 *is already installed in the new *Tilt Shaft.*
> 
> *Correction*: It has been pointed out to me that some of the parts in the *Drive Train *have been shown out of order in the photo below: Parts *#8 & #12 *should be shown *between *the two* #11 Flange Bearings.* These parts are shown in the correct position in the parts installation photos and in the *Concept Drawing.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned before, I intended to purchase the *Tilt Shaft*, *Roll Pin*, and *Cover Plate *as *Ridgid *replacement parts. Some of the other specialized parts, such as the *Flex Coupling* components and *Shaft Collars *were purchased from *McMaster-Carr * online. The other hardware items were purchased at local hardware outlets.
> 
> As a side note, I highly recommend *McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com)* as a source for almost any hardware item you can think of. Their prices are competitive, fast order turnaround, and very reasonable shipping rates. They also have some of the best prices I have found for thin wall PVC S&D ducting fittings, including 6" sizes, for DC system fabrication.
> 
> The photo below shows the drive train components assembled in their relative positions similar to the actual installation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Coupling Nut *was an easy way to attach an extension to the existing *Tilt Shaft *projecting from the side of the saw cabinet. The extension shaft was the shank from an *8mm *hex head bolt. The *Jamb Nuts * lock the *Coupling Nut * in place to prevent loosening. The round shank of the extension shaft would be easy to secure in the *Right Angle Drive *chuck.
> 
> I incorporated the *Flex Coupling*, a low priced assembly, to minimize the effects of misalignment between the *Right Angle Drive *and the new *Tilt Shaft*. I was delighted to find that *McMaster-Carr *carried the necessary components to permit joining the *3/8"* shaft on the *Right Angle Drive *with the new *10mm Tilt Shaft*!(Would that be called a *Multi-national* connection?) The *Spider * is a Buna - N rubber component that couples the two metal hubs and provides a small measure of flexibility.
> 
> The *Shaft Collars *were incorporated to prevent any lateral movement of the new *Tilt Shaft*. Operating the *Tilt Handwheel *could tend to push the new *Tilt Shaft *inward, putting unwanted stress on the *Right **Angle Drive*. Conversely, locking the handwheel with the *Bar Knob* would tend to pull the new *Tilt Shaft *outward, disengaging the *Flex Coupling*.
> 
> The *Spyraflo Flange Bearings* are a unique design in that the bearing surfaces are made from *Acetal (Delrin), *an engineered plastic material that is widely used in industry for low load bearing, low friction, precision bearings. These bearings are also self aligning and will tolerate up to 5º misalignment - a low cost product with amazing specifications! The *Acetal *bearing material is a product with a low coefficient of friction and requires no additional lubrication.
> 
> The flat steel and nylon washers were provided to produce low friction, rotational "thrust" bearing surfaces.
> 
> *Right Angle Drive Train Installation*
> 
> As shown below, a three-sided, open top (and bottom) box was fabricated and attached to the inside of the back and the right side of the storage cabinet. So that the storage cabinet would fit tightly against the saw cabinet, a counterbore was drilled in the outside of the storage cabinet back to accommodate the thickness of the original *Cover Plate*. An oversize hole was drilled thru the cabinet back to allow access to tighten the rear *Jamb Nut*. The photo shows the *Coupling Nut *with the extended *Tilt Shaft *and *Jamb Nuts *installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below shows the *Milescraft Drill 90 Right Angle Drill Drive* installed on the extended *Tilt Shaft*. Note the oversize access hole in the side of the cabinet to allow clearance for installation and removal of the *Right Angle Drive* with the *Flex Coupling Hub* installed. The *Right Angle Drive Hub* was approximately centered in the side opening. The open top and bottom of the enclosure allowed tightening of the chuck on the shaft extension. I chose to leave the angle drive handle attachment bolt through the housing in place. I had originally considered using the bolt to attach the drive, but found it wasn't necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As shown in the following photo, a separate external enclosure was built for mounting the *Flange Bearings *and housing the rest of the drive components. The bearing supports were fabricated and drilled as a matched pair, minimizing alignment problems. Note that the *Flex Coupling *is clearly visible and that the two *Shaft Collars *sandwich the flat anti- friction washers and the *Inner Flange Bearing*. These components were installed with full engagement of the *Flex Coupling *components and adjusted to produce minimal lateral movement of the new *Tilt Shaft*, while maintaining free rotation. Note the *Right Angle Drive * is unattached on one end, constrained only by the *Flex Coupling *- this design minimizes the stress applied to the *Right Angle Drive *in operation. The *Flex Coupling *is self adjusting, accommodating any minor misalignment of components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After installation of the drive train components, the external box position was adjusted visually to produce the best alignment of the *Flex Coupling*, minimizlng misalignment between the *Right Angle Drive *and the new *Tilt Shaft*, and clamped in place. Permanent attachment of the external box to the cabinet side was then done with screws from inside the storage cabinet.
> 
> The external surfaces of the box were covered with 5mm Birch underlayment plywood to improve appearance. I didn't like the appearance of a square box that looked like it was just stuck to the side of the storage cabinet, so I added some sloped panels to make it more aesthetic- strictly foo foo-they serve no other purpose other than to make it harder for dust to stick to them. A removable access panel was incorporated into the side of the box to allow installation, removal, and adjustment of the drive train components.
> 
> The photo below shows the *Outside Flange Bearing *installation. The pairs of *Flange Bearing *mounting holes were oriented at 90º to each other. Note the screwdriver access holes for installation of the *Inner Flange Bearing *mounting screws. The *Cover Plate*, not shown in the photo, was installed over the large hole in the face of the enclosure. Installation of the *Access Cover*, *Tilt Handwheel*, and the *Bar Knob *completed the assembly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Relocated Tilt Handwheel*
> 
> So for all of you folks who have been waiting with bated breath………..here is what the *Front-Mounted Relocated Tilt Handwheel* looks like! It is totally contained within the envelope of the front overhang of the table and fence rail and the front of the storage cabinet. In addition, there is no interference with adjacent front-mounted machine components, such as the *Power Switch*, *Elevation Handwheel*, and *Tilt Indicator*. The *Relocated Tilt Handwheel* operates smoothly, with no more effort than when it was mounted on the side of the saw - but it sure is a heck of a lot handier to use!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Handwheel Twins*
> 
> Kinda looks like a poor man's version of the new *Delta Unisaw*……………..!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Bits and Pieces and $$*
> 
> So now your next questions are going to be, *"What are the parts? Where can I buy them? and What do they cost?"* So here are some answers. You may find that substituting other parts will work just as well. Keep in mind that these are the parts I used for the *Model R4511 *- *doing a similar modification to another saw may require different parts and hardware, especially for adapting to the existing tilt shaft.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *What If My R4511 Doesn't Have a Storage Cabinet or I Have a Different Saw?
> *
> The obvious answer is 1) you could add one, or 2) you could find a *Model 4511 *on Craigslist and change saws……………!!
> 
> But let me suggest a third alternative for relocating the *Tilt Handwheel *to the front of *almost any tablesaw*.
> 
> Firstly, purchase the component parts listed above or equivalents to fit your particular saw. Altho the *Flex Coupling *could be omitted, I would recommend including it because working with wood usually isn't as precise as dealing with metal components, although with care it can be done.
> 
> Secondly, design and build a suitable enclosure for the drive components you have selected. Sometimes it is best to have the hardware in hand before fabricating anything so that you can be sure that everything is going to fit together.
> 
> As a starting point design, you might consider the concept below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would add a thin plywood or hardboard cover to the top and bottom to increase the rigidity of the enclosure and preclude dust and debris. At least one of the two covers should be removable to allow access for installation and removal of the drive train components. I would also make the two sides of the enclosure adjacent to the saw cabinet at 1 to 2 inches larger top and bottom to provide a flange for attachment of the enclosure to the saw cabinet.
> 
> *WARNING!!* This is *only *a conceptual drawing-the actual dimensions of the enclosure and the placing of components will depend upon the configuration of your saw and the drive train components selected.
> 
> Well, we have finally come to the end of this chapter. But, stay tuned…........there's more to come!
> 
> This phase of the equipment upgrade was an interesting one for me- and will be right up there near the top of my favorite changes to this tablesaw. One of the things that delights me the most is that I was able to put it together with available parts and wood scraps in the shop. And the only part alteration was to cut off the head of the bolt I used for the extension shaft and cut off the excess length of the purchased Tilt Shaft. I hope others will find this information useful. If so, please let me know-and be sure to show us some pictures if you decide to take this adventure…................
> 
> Please feel free to leave comments or constructive suggestions. All questions will be answered. And if you find any errors in the material callouts or part numbers, etc., please let me know so I can make corrections.


Hi Randy,
Thanks for the kind comments. I worked as an engineer in the R&D field for 40+ years and documentation of our work was part of the job I always enjoyed. Now days with the advent of really good, affordable digital cameras, it is really easy. I take a lot of pics of all of my projects (and throw away most of them) because I have found it a really good reference of the details of past projects, which may not be visible or available anymore, and something I can share with my fellow woodworkers. I see a lot of folks doing a good job of photo documenting their projects. It sure makes it easy to share projects and ideas on the internet forums. I love to see pics of other people's work-it inspires me and gives me more ideas than I have time to build…......
I'm getting some hints from LOML that blogging is great, but maybe it is time to work on my Honey Do list pretty soon! She's a patient sweetheart!
Hang in there and keep looking for a good saw value-there are a lot of good used ones for sale.


----------



## falegniam

paulnwa said:


> *Relocated Tilt Handwheel -- Finally Making It Happen*
> 
> *My Turn-The-Corner-Thingy Selection*
> 
> My first choice was to use a small right angle gearbox, but I was unable to come up with any miniature ones with my Google searches. Fellow LJer *DIYaholic *pointed out some really skookum looking ones yesterday from sources that I somehow missed when I was searching. (Thanks, Randy - I tucked those references away in my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy* file for future projects.) Had I seen them, I might have gone that direction. The only right angle gearboxes I could find were too large and cost half as much as my saw!
> 
> But in spite of that, my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy* quest has come to a successful conclusion! The winner is the *Milescraft Drill 90 Right Angle Drill Drive*,* Model #1390*, which I purchased at my local *Lowes *store for less than $20. That said, there are other similar products that would probably work just as well, such as the compact *Milescraft Drive 90 #1302* suggested yesterday by LJer *Kiefer*. Please don't let my choices limit your thinking.
> 
> Note that my selected *Milescraft *product is very similar to the *Vermont-American Model 17172* suggested by LJer *DIYaholic *yesterday. I had seen this *V-A *model on *Amazon.com*, but it had some accessories that I knew I wasn't going to use and the price was a little higher than the *Milescraft*. I suspect that the two would be interchangeable. But the biggest driver was that I wanted to purchase something that I could get locally so that I could return it easily if it wasn't going to work for this application.
> 
> The *Milescraft Drill 90 *is a right angle drill drive with 1:1 ratio, powder metal bevel gears and bronze bearings. For this application, I didn't feel that the plastic case was a detractor because of the intermittent usage, low rotational speeds, and low stress mounting design. The integral chuck would be ideal for gripping the extended *Tilt Shaft *without having to fabricate or purchase any other adapters. This is not a precision device, but it is more than adequate for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Designing and Packaging the Drive Train
> *
> 
> Having selected my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy*, I was ready to develop a design for the rest of the drive train, which would meet my previously specified criteria, and a way to package it.
> 
> *Design Criteria*
> 
> • Low Cost
> • Simple Configuration
> • Use Available Components
> • Accommodate Possible Shaft Misalignment
> • Reduce or Eliminate Lubrication
> • Retain Original Handwheel Attachment
> • Be Contained within the Envelope of the Saw Table and Fence Rail
> 
> The photo below is what I came up with for the *Right Angle Drive *train. Note that the *Part 15 *is already installed in the new *Tilt Shaft.*
> 
> *Correction*: It has been pointed out to me that some of the parts in the *Drive Train *have been shown out of order in the photo below: Parts *#8 & #12 *should be shown *between *the two* #11 Flange Bearings.* These parts are shown in the correct position in the parts installation photos and in the *Concept Drawing.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned before, I intended to purchase the *Tilt Shaft*, *Roll Pin*, and *Cover Plate *as *Ridgid *replacement parts. Some of the other specialized parts, such as the *Flex Coupling* components and *Shaft Collars *were purchased from *McMaster-Carr * online. The other hardware items were purchased at local hardware outlets.
> 
> As a side note, I highly recommend *McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com)* as a source for almost any hardware item you can think of. Their prices are competitive, fast order turnaround, and very reasonable shipping rates. They also have some of the best prices I have found for thin wall PVC S&D ducting fittings, including 6" sizes, for DC system fabrication.
> 
> The photo below shows the drive train components assembled in their relative positions similar to the actual installation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Coupling Nut *was an easy way to attach an extension to the existing *Tilt Shaft *projecting from the side of the saw cabinet. The extension shaft was the shank from an *8mm *hex head bolt. The *Jamb Nuts * lock the *Coupling Nut * in place to prevent loosening. The round shank of the extension shaft would be easy to secure in the *Right Angle Drive *chuck.
> 
> I incorporated the *Flex Coupling*, a low priced assembly, to minimize the effects of misalignment between the *Right Angle Drive *and the new *Tilt Shaft*. I was delighted to find that *McMaster-Carr *carried the necessary components to permit joining the *3/8"* shaft on the *Right Angle Drive *with the new *10mm Tilt Shaft*!(Would that be called a *Multi-national* connection?) The *Spider * is a Buna - N rubber component that couples the two metal hubs and provides a small measure of flexibility.
> 
> The *Shaft Collars *were incorporated to prevent any lateral movement of the new *Tilt Shaft*. Operating the *Tilt Handwheel *could tend to push the new *Tilt Shaft *inward, putting unwanted stress on the *Right **Angle Drive*. Conversely, locking the handwheel with the *Bar Knob* would tend to pull the new *Tilt Shaft *outward, disengaging the *Flex Coupling*.
> 
> The *Spyraflo Flange Bearings* are a unique design in that the bearing surfaces are made from *Acetal (Delrin), *an engineered plastic material that is widely used in industry for low load bearing, low friction, precision bearings. These bearings are also self aligning and will tolerate up to 5º misalignment - a low cost product with amazing specifications! The *Acetal *bearing material is a product with a low coefficient of friction and requires no additional lubrication.
> 
> The flat steel and nylon washers were provided to produce low friction, rotational "thrust" bearing surfaces.
> 
> *Right Angle Drive Train Installation*
> 
> As shown below, a three-sided, open top (and bottom) box was fabricated and attached to the inside of the back and the right side of the storage cabinet. So that the storage cabinet would fit tightly against the saw cabinet, a counterbore was drilled in the outside of the storage cabinet back to accommodate the thickness of the original *Cover Plate*. An oversize hole was drilled thru the cabinet back to allow access to tighten the rear *Jamb Nut*. The photo shows the *Coupling Nut *with the extended *Tilt Shaft *and *Jamb Nuts *installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below shows the *Milescraft Drill 90 Right Angle Drill Drive* installed on the extended *Tilt Shaft*. Note the oversize access hole in the side of the cabinet to allow clearance for installation and removal of the *Right Angle Drive* with the *Flex Coupling Hub* installed. The *Right Angle Drive Hub* was approximately centered in the side opening. The open top and bottom of the enclosure allowed tightening of the chuck on the shaft extension. I chose to leave the angle drive handle attachment bolt through the housing in place. I had originally considered using the bolt to attach the drive, but found it wasn't necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As shown in the following photo, a separate external enclosure was built for mounting the *Flange Bearings *and housing the rest of the drive components. The bearing supports were fabricated and drilled as a matched pair, minimizing alignment problems. Note that the *Flex Coupling *is clearly visible and that the two *Shaft Collars *sandwich the flat anti- friction washers and the *Inner Flange Bearing*. These components were installed with full engagement of the *Flex Coupling *components and adjusted to produce minimal lateral movement of the new *Tilt Shaft*, while maintaining free rotation. Note the *Right Angle Drive * is unattached on one end, constrained only by the *Flex Coupling *- this design minimizes the stress applied to the *Right Angle Drive *in operation. The *Flex Coupling *is self adjusting, accommodating any minor misalignment of components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After installation of the drive train components, the external box position was adjusted visually to produce the best alignment of the *Flex Coupling*, minimizlng misalignment between the *Right Angle Drive *and the new *Tilt Shaft*, and clamped in place. Permanent attachment of the external box to the cabinet side was then done with screws from inside the storage cabinet.
> 
> The external surfaces of the box were covered with 5mm Birch underlayment plywood to improve appearance. I didn't like the appearance of a square box that looked like it was just stuck to the side of the storage cabinet, so I added some sloped panels to make it more aesthetic- strictly foo foo-they serve no other purpose other than to make it harder for dust to stick to them. A removable access panel was incorporated into the side of the box to allow installation, removal, and adjustment of the drive train components.
> 
> The photo below shows the *Outside Flange Bearing *installation. The pairs of *Flange Bearing *mounting holes were oriented at 90º to each other. Note the screwdriver access holes for installation of the *Inner Flange Bearing *mounting screws. The *Cover Plate*, not shown in the photo, was installed over the large hole in the face of the enclosure. Installation of the *Access Cover*, *Tilt Handwheel*, and the *Bar Knob *completed the assembly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Relocated Tilt Handwheel*
> 
> So for all of you folks who have been waiting with bated breath………..here is what the *Front-Mounted Relocated Tilt Handwheel* looks like! It is totally contained within the envelope of the front overhang of the table and fence rail and the front of the storage cabinet. In addition, there is no interference with adjacent front-mounted machine components, such as the *Power Switch*, *Elevation Handwheel*, and *Tilt Indicator*. The *Relocated Tilt Handwheel* operates smoothly, with no more effort than when it was mounted on the side of the saw - but it sure is a heck of a lot handier to use!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Handwheel Twins*
> 
> Kinda looks like a poor man's version of the new *Delta Unisaw*……………..!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Bits and Pieces and $$*
> 
> So now your next questions are going to be, *"What are the parts? Where can I buy them? and What do they cost?"* So here are some answers. You may find that substituting other parts will work just as well. Keep in mind that these are the parts I used for the *Model R4511 *- *doing a similar modification to another saw may require different parts and hardware, especially for adapting to the existing tilt shaft.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *What If My R4511 Doesn't Have a Storage Cabinet or I Have a Different Saw?
> *
> The obvious answer is 1) you could add one, or 2) you could find a *Model 4511 *on Craigslist and change saws……………!!
> 
> But let me suggest a third alternative for relocating the *Tilt Handwheel *to the front of *almost any tablesaw*.
> 
> Firstly, purchase the component parts listed above or equivalents to fit your particular saw. Altho the *Flex Coupling *could be omitted, I would recommend including it because working with wood usually isn't as precise as dealing with metal components, although with care it can be done.
> 
> Secondly, design and build a suitable enclosure for the drive components you have selected. Sometimes it is best to have the hardware in hand before fabricating anything so that you can be sure that everything is going to fit together.
> 
> As a starting point design, you might consider the concept below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would add a thin plywood or hardboard cover to the top and bottom to increase the rigidity of the enclosure and preclude dust and debris. At least one of the two covers should be removable to allow access for installation and removal of the drive train components. I would also make the two sides of the enclosure adjacent to the saw cabinet at 1 to 2 inches larger top and bottom to provide a flange for attachment of the enclosure to the saw cabinet.
> 
> *WARNING!!* This is *only *a conceptual drawing-the actual dimensions of the enclosure and the placing of components will depend upon the configuration of your saw and the drive train components selected.
> 
> Well, we have finally come to the end of this chapter. But, stay tuned…........there's more to come!
> 
> This phase of the equipment upgrade was an interesting one for me- and will be right up there near the top of my favorite changes to this tablesaw. One of the things that delights me the most is that I was able to put it together with available parts and wood scraps in the shop. And the only part alteration was to cut off the head of the bolt I used for the extension shaft and cut off the excess length of the purchased Tilt Shaft. I hope others will find this information useful. If so, please let me know-and be sure to show us some pictures if you decide to take this adventure…................
> 
> Please feel free to leave comments or constructive suggestions. All questions will be answered. And if you find any errors in the material callouts or part numbers, etc., please let me know so I can make corrections.


I love your work, and recognized the field you must of worked in since I worked in drafting and with engineers for some years. When i saw the detailed drawing, it gave it away, and said…this guy is an engineer, or was one. I still use an old version of cad to do my designs for projects. The kitchen cabinet i posted is one that I built right to spec, and I use the cabinet daily. I have the same saw, and particularly like the bottom portion of the modification you did. You are absolutely correct about the saw being unstable with the "short wheel base" if you will. The extra storage must be nice. I also wanted to add that using a right angle drill head was a very good idea. Thank you for uploading your projects, i enjoyed viewing and reading about them.


----------



## b2rtch

paulnwa said:


> *Relocated Tilt Handwheel -- Finally Making It Happen*
> 
> *My Turn-The-Corner-Thingy Selection*
> 
> My first choice was to use a small right angle gearbox, but I was unable to come up with any miniature ones with my Google searches. Fellow LJer *DIYaholic *pointed out some really skookum looking ones yesterday from sources that I somehow missed when I was searching. (Thanks, Randy - I tucked those references away in my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy* file for future projects.) Had I seen them, I might have gone that direction. The only right angle gearboxes I could find were too large and cost half as much as my saw!
> 
> But in spite of that, my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy* quest has come to a successful conclusion! The winner is the *Milescraft Drill 90 Right Angle Drill Drive*,* Model #1390*, which I purchased at my local *Lowes *store for less than $20. That said, there are other similar products that would probably work just as well, such as the compact *Milescraft Drive 90 #1302* suggested yesterday by LJer *Kiefer*. Please don't let my choices limit your thinking.
> 
> Note that my selected *Milescraft *product is very similar to the *Vermont-American Model 17172* suggested by LJer *DIYaholic *yesterday. I had seen this *V-A *model on *Amazon.com*, but it had some accessories that I knew I wasn't going to use and the price was a little higher than the *Milescraft*. I suspect that the two would be interchangeable. But the biggest driver was that I wanted to purchase something that I could get locally so that I could return it easily if it wasn't going to work for this application.
> 
> The *Milescraft Drill 90 *is a right angle drill drive with 1:1 ratio, powder metal bevel gears and bronze bearings. For this application, I didn't feel that the plastic case was a detractor because of the intermittent usage, low rotational speeds, and low stress mounting design. The integral chuck would be ideal for gripping the extended *Tilt Shaft *without having to fabricate or purchase any other adapters. This is not a precision device, but it is more than adequate for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Designing and Packaging the Drive Train
> *
> 
> Having selected my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy*, I was ready to develop a design for the rest of the drive train, which would meet my previously specified criteria, and a way to package it.
> 
> *Design Criteria*
> 
> • Low Cost
> • Simple Configuration
> • Use Available Components
> • Accommodate Possible Shaft Misalignment
> • Reduce or Eliminate Lubrication
> • Retain Original Handwheel Attachment
> • Be Contained within the Envelope of the Saw Table and Fence Rail
> 
> The photo below is what I came up with for the *Right Angle Drive *train. Note that the *Part 15 *is already installed in the new *Tilt Shaft.*
> 
> *Correction*: It has been pointed out to me that some of the parts in the *Drive Train *have been shown out of order in the photo below: Parts *#8 & #12 *should be shown *between *the two* #11 Flange Bearings.* These parts are shown in the correct position in the parts installation photos and in the *Concept Drawing.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned before, I intended to purchase the *Tilt Shaft*, *Roll Pin*, and *Cover Plate *as *Ridgid *replacement parts. Some of the other specialized parts, such as the *Flex Coupling* components and *Shaft Collars *were purchased from *McMaster-Carr * online. The other hardware items were purchased at local hardware outlets.
> 
> As a side note, I highly recommend *McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com)* as a source for almost any hardware item you can think of. Their prices are competitive, fast order turnaround, and very reasonable shipping rates. They also have some of the best prices I have found for thin wall PVC S&D ducting fittings, including 6" sizes, for DC system fabrication.
> 
> The photo below shows the drive train components assembled in their relative positions similar to the actual installation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Coupling Nut *was an easy way to attach an extension to the existing *Tilt Shaft *projecting from the side of the saw cabinet. The extension shaft was the shank from an *8mm *hex head bolt. The *Jamb Nuts * lock the *Coupling Nut * in place to prevent loosening. The round shank of the extension shaft would be easy to secure in the *Right Angle Drive *chuck.
> 
> I incorporated the *Flex Coupling*, a low priced assembly, to minimize the effects of misalignment between the *Right Angle Drive *and the new *Tilt Shaft*. I was delighted to find that *McMaster-Carr *carried the necessary components to permit joining the *3/8"* shaft on the *Right Angle Drive *with the new *10mm Tilt Shaft*!(Would that be called a *Multi-national* connection?) The *Spider * is a Buna - N rubber component that couples the two metal hubs and provides a small measure of flexibility.
> 
> The *Shaft Collars *were incorporated to prevent any lateral movement of the new *Tilt Shaft*. Operating the *Tilt Handwheel *could tend to push the new *Tilt Shaft *inward, putting unwanted stress on the *Right **Angle Drive*. Conversely, locking the handwheel with the *Bar Knob* would tend to pull the new *Tilt Shaft *outward, disengaging the *Flex Coupling*.
> 
> The *Spyraflo Flange Bearings* are a unique design in that the bearing surfaces are made from *Acetal (Delrin), *an engineered plastic material that is widely used in industry for low load bearing, low friction, precision bearings. These bearings are also self aligning and will tolerate up to 5º misalignment - a low cost product with amazing specifications! The *Acetal *bearing material is a product with a low coefficient of friction and requires no additional lubrication.
> 
> The flat steel and nylon washers were provided to produce low friction, rotational "thrust" bearing surfaces.
> 
> *Right Angle Drive Train Installation*
> 
> As shown below, a three-sided, open top (and bottom) box was fabricated and attached to the inside of the back and the right side of the storage cabinet. So that the storage cabinet would fit tightly against the saw cabinet, a counterbore was drilled in the outside of the storage cabinet back to accommodate the thickness of the original *Cover Plate*. An oversize hole was drilled thru the cabinet back to allow access to tighten the rear *Jamb Nut*. The photo shows the *Coupling Nut *with the extended *Tilt Shaft *and *Jamb Nuts *installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below shows the *Milescraft Drill 90 Right Angle Drill Drive* installed on the extended *Tilt Shaft*. Note the oversize access hole in the side of the cabinet to allow clearance for installation and removal of the *Right Angle Drive* with the *Flex Coupling Hub* installed. The *Right Angle Drive Hub* was approximately centered in the side opening. The open top and bottom of the enclosure allowed tightening of the chuck on the shaft extension. I chose to leave the angle drive handle attachment bolt through the housing in place. I had originally considered using the bolt to attach the drive, but found it wasn't necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As shown in the following photo, a separate external enclosure was built for mounting the *Flange Bearings *and housing the rest of the drive components. The bearing supports were fabricated and drilled as a matched pair, minimizing alignment problems. Note that the *Flex Coupling *is clearly visible and that the two *Shaft Collars *sandwich the flat anti- friction washers and the *Inner Flange Bearing*. These components were installed with full engagement of the *Flex Coupling *components and adjusted to produce minimal lateral movement of the new *Tilt Shaft*, while maintaining free rotation. Note the *Right Angle Drive * is unattached on one end, constrained only by the *Flex Coupling *- this design minimizes the stress applied to the *Right Angle Drive *in operation. The *Flex Coupling *is self adjusting, accommodating any minor misalignment of components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After installation of the drive train components, the external box position was adjusted visually to produce the best alignment of the *Flex Coupling*, minimizlng misalignment between the *Right Angle Drive *and the new *Tilt Shaft*, and clamped in place. Permanent attachment of the external box to the cabinet side was then done with screws from inside the storage cabinet.
> 
> The external surfaces of the box were covered with 5mm Birch underlayment plywood to improve appearance. I didn't like the appearance of a square box that looked like it was just stuck to the side of the storage cabinet, so I added some sloped panels to make it more aesthetic- strictly foo foo-they serve no other purpose other than to make it harder for dust to stick to them. A removable access panel was incorporated into the side of the box to allow installation, removal, and adjustment of the drive train components.
> 
> The photo below shows the *Outside Flange Bearing *installation. The pairs of *Flange Bearing *mounting holes were oriented at 90º to each other. Note the screwdriver access holes for installation of the *Inner Flange Bearing *mounting screws. The *Cover Plate*, not shown in the photo, was installed over the large hole in the face of the enclosure. Installation of the *Access Cover*, *Tilt Handwheel*, and the *Bar Knob *completed the assembly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Relocated Tilt Handwheel*
> 
> So for all of you folks who have been waiting with bated breath………..here is what the *Front-Mounted Relocated Tilt Handwheel* looks like! It is totally contained within the envelope of the front overhang of the table and fence rail and the front of the storage cabinet. In addition, there is no interference with adjacent front-mounted machine components, such as the *Power Switch*, *Elevation Handwheel*, and *Tilt Indicator*. The *Relocated Tilt Handwheel* operates smoothly, with no more effort than when it was mounted on the side of the saw - but it sure is a heck of a lot handier to use!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Handwheel Twins*
> 
> Kinda looks like a poor man's version of the new *Delta Unisaw*……………..!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Bits and Pieces and $$*
> 
> So now your next questions are going to be, *"What are the parts? Where can I buy them? and What do they cost?"* So here are some answers. You may find that substituting other parts will work just as well. Keep in mind that these are the parts I used for the *Model R4511 *- *doing a similar modification to another saw may require different parts and hardware, especially for adapting to the existing tilt shaft.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *What If My R4511 Doesn't Have a Storage Cabinet or I Have a Different Saw?
> *
> The obvious answer is 1) you could add one, or 2) you could find a *Model 4511 *on Craigslist and change saws……………!!
> 
> But let me suggest a third alternative for relocating the *Tilt Handwheel *to the front of *almost any tablesaw*.
> 
> Firstly, purchase the component parts listed above or equivalents to fit your particular saw. Altho the *Flex Coupling *could be omitted, I would recommend including it because working with wood usually isn't as precise as dealing with metal components, although with care it can be done.
> 
> Secondly, design and build a suitable enclosure for the drive components you have selected. Sometimes it is best to have the hardware in hand before fabricating anything so that you can be sure that everything is going to fit together.
> 
> As a starting point design, you might consider the concept below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would add a thin plywood or hardboard cover to the top and bottom to increase the rigidity of the enclosure and preclude dust and debris. At least one of the two covers should be removable to allow access for installation and removal of the drive train components. I would also make the two sides of the enclosure adjacent to the saw cabinet at 1 to 2 inches larger top and bottom to provide a flange for attachment of the enclosure to the saw cabinet.
> 
> *WARNING!!* This is *only *a conceptual drawing-the actual dimensions of the enclosure and the placing of components will depend upon the configuration of your saw and the drive train components selected.
> 
> Well, we have finally come to the end of this chapter. But, stay tuned…........there's more to come!
> 
> This phase of the equipment upgrade was an interesting one for me- and will be right up there near the top of my favorite changes to this tablesaw. One of the things that delights me the most is that I was able to put it together with available parts and wood scraps in the shop. And the only part alteration was to cut off the head of the bolt I used for the extension shaft and cut off the excess length of the purchased Tilt Shaft. I hope others will find this information useful. If so, please let me know-and be sure to show us some pictures if you decide to take this adventure…................
> 
> Please feel free to leave comments or constructive suggestions. All questions will be answered. And if you find any errors in the material callouts or part numbers, etc., please let me know so I can make corrections.


Looks beautiful.
Excellent and thank you for the very detailed information. 
I use Mc Master Carr at work daily, they are excellent.


----------



## paulnwa

paulnwa said:


> *Relocated Tilt Handwheel -- Finally Making It Happen*
> 
> *My Turn-The-Corner-Thingy Selection*
> 
> My first choice was to use a small right angle gearbox, but I was unable to come up with any miniature ones with my Google searches. Fellow LJer *DIYaholic *pointed out some really skookum looking ones yesterday from sources that I somehow missed when I was searching. (Thanks, Randy - I tucked those references away in my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy* file for future projects.) Had I seen them, I might have gone that direction. The only right angle gearboxes I could find were too large and cost half as much as my saw!
> 
> But in spite of that, my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy* quest has come to a successful conclusion! The winner is the *Milescraft Drill 90 Right Angle Drill Drive*,* Model #1390*, which I purchased at my local *Lowes *store for less than $20. That said, there are other similar products that would probably work just as well, such as the compact *Milescraft Drive 90 #1302* suggested yesterday by LJer *Kiefer*. Please don't let my choices limit your thinking.
> 
> Note that my selected *Milescraft *product is very similar to the *Vermont-American Model 17172* suggested by LJer *DIYaholic *yesterday. I had seen this *V-A *model on *Amazon.com*, but it had some accessories that I knew I wasn't going to use and the price was a little higher than the *Milescraft*. I suspect that the two would be interchangeable. But the biggest driver was that I wanted to purchase something that I could get locally so that I could return it easily if it wasn't going to work for this application.
> 
> The *Milescraft Drill 90 *is a right angle drill drive with 1:1 ratio, powder metal bevel gears and bronze bearings. For this application, I didn't feel that the plastic case was a detractor because of the intermittent usage, low rotational speeds, and low stress mounting design. The integral chuck would be ideal for gripping the extended *Tilt Shaft *without having to fabricate or purchase any other adapters. This is not a precision device, but it is more than adequate for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Designing and Packaging the Drive Train
> *
> 
> Having selected my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy*, I was ready to develop a design for the rest of the drive train, which would meet my previously specified criteria, and a way to package it.
> 
> *Design Criteria*
> 
> • Low Cost
> • Simple Configuration
> • Use Available Components
> • Accommodate Possible Shaft Misalignment
> • Reduce or Eliminate Lubrication
> • Retain Original Handwheel Attachment
> • Be Contained within the Envelope of the Saw Table and Fence Rail
> 
> The photo below is what I came up with for the *Right Angle Drive *train. Note that the *Part 15 *is already installed in the new *Tilt Shaft.*
> 
> *Correction*: It has been pointed out to me that some of the parts in the *Drive Train *have been shown out of order in the photo below: Parts *#8 & #12 *should be shown *between *the two* #11 Flange Bearings.* These parts are shown in the correct position in the parts installation photos and in the *Concept Drawing.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned before, I intended to purchase the *Tilt Shaft*, *Roll Pin*, and *Cover Plate *as *Ridgid *replacement parts. Some of the other specialized parts, such as the *Flex Coupling* components and *Shaft Collars *were purchased from *McMaster-Carr * online. The other hardware items were purchased at local hardware outlets.
> 
> As a side note, I highly recommend *McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com)* as a source for almost any hardware item you can think of. Their prices are competitive, fast order turnaround, and very reasonable shipping rates. They also have some of the best prices I have found for thin wall PVC S&D ducting fittings, including 6" sizes, for DC system fabrication.
> 
> The photo below shows the drive train components assembled in their relative positions similar to the actual installation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Coupling Nut *was an easy way to attach an extension to the existing *Tilt Shaft *projecting from the side of the saw cabinet. The extension shaft was the shank from an *8mm *hex head bolt. The *Jamb Nuts * lock the *Coupling Nut * in place to prevent loosening. The round shank of the extension shaft would be easy to secure in the *Right Angle Drive *chuck.
> 
> I incorporated the *Flex Coupling*, a low priced assembly, to minimize the effects of misalignment between the *Right Angle Drive *and the new *Tilt Shaft*. I was delighted to find that *McMaster-Carr *carried the necessary components to permit joining the *3/8"* shaft on the *Right Angle Drive *with the new *10mm Tilt Shaft*!(Would that be called a *Multi-national* connection?) The *Spider * is a Buna - N rubber component that couples the two metal hubs and provides a small measure of flexibility.
> 
> The *Shaft Collars *were incorporated to prevent any lateral movement of the new *Tilt Shaft*. Operating the *Tilt Handwheel *could tend to push the new *Tilt Shaft *inward, putting unwanted stress on the *Right **Angle Drive*. Conversely, locking the handwheel with the *Bar Knob* would tend to pull the new *Tilt Shaft *outward, disengaging the *Flex Coupling*.
> 
> The *Spyraflo Flange Bearings* are a unique design in that the bearing surfaces are made from *Acetal (Delrin), *an engineered plastic material that is widely used in industry for low load bearing, low friction, precision bearings. These bearings are also self aligning and will tolerate up to 5º misalignment - a low cost product with amazing specifications! The *Acetal *bearing material is a product with a low coefficient of friction and requires no additional lubrication.
> 
> The flat steel and nylon washers were provided to produce low friction, rotational "thrust" bearing surfaces.
> 
> *Right Angle Drive Train Installation*
> 
> As shown below, a three-sided, open top (and bottom) box was fabricated and attached to the inside of the back and the right side of the storage cabinet. So that the storage cabinet would fit tightly against the saw cabinet, a counterbore was drilled in the outside of the storage cabinet back to accommodate the thickness of the original *Cover Plate*. An oversize hole was drilled thru the cabinet back to allow access to tighten the rear *Jamb Nut*. The photo shows the *Coupling Nut *with the extended *Tilt Shaft *and *Jamb Nuts *installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below shows the *Milescraft Drill 90 Right Angle Drill Drive* installed on the extended *Tilt Shaft*. Note the oversize access hole in the side of the cabinet to allow clearance for installation and removal of the *Right Angle Drive* with the *Flex Coupling Hub* installed. The *Right Angle Drive Hub* was approximately centered in the side opening. The open top and bottom of the enclosure allowed tightening of the chuck on the shaft extension. I chose to leave the angle drive handle attachment bolt through the housing in place. I had originally considered using the bolt to attach the drive, but found it wasn't necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As shown in the following photo, a separate external enclosure was built for mounting the *Flange Bearings *and housing the rest of the drive components. The bearing supports were fabricated and drilled as a matched pair, minimizing alignment problems. Note that the *Flex Coupling *is clearly visible and that the two *Shaft Collars *sandwich the flat anti- friction washers and the *Inner Flange Bearing*. These components were installed with full engagement of the *Flex Coupling *components and adjusted to produce minimal lateral movement of the new *Tilt Shaft*, while maintaining free rotation. Note the *Right Angle Drive * is unattached on one end, constrained only by the *Flex Coupling *- this design minimizes the stress applied to the *Right Angle Drive *in operation. The *Flex Coupling *is self adjusting, accommodating any minor misalignment of components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After installation of the drive train components, the external box position was adjusted visually to produce the best alignment of the *Flex Coupling*, minimizlng misalignment between the *Right Angle Drive *and the new *Tilt Shaft*, and clamped in place. Permanent attachment of the external box to the cabinet side was then done with screws from inside the storage cabinet.
> 
> The external surfaces of the box were covered with 5mm Birch underlayment plywood to improve appearance. I didn't like the appearance of a square box that looked like it was just stuck to the side of the storage cabinet, so I added some sloped panels to make it more aesthetic- strictly foo foo-they serve no other purpose other than to make it harder for dust to stick to them. A removable access panel was incorporated into the side of the box to allow installation, removal, and adjustment of the drive train components.
> 
> The photo below shows the *Outside Flange Bearing *installation. The pairs of *Flange Bearing *mounting holes were oriented at 90º to each other. Note the screwdriver access holes for installation of the *Inner Flange Bearing *mounting screws. The *Cover Plate*, not shown in the photo, was installed over the large hole in the face of the enclosure. Installation of the *Access Cover*, *Tilt Handwheel*, and the *Bar Knob *completed the assembly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Relocated Tilt Handwheel*
> 
> So for all of you folks who have been waiting with bated breath………..here is what the *Front-Mounted Relocated Tilt Handwheel* looks like! It is totally contained within the envelope of the front overhang of the table and fence rail and the front of the storage cabinet. In addition, there is no interference with adjacent front-mounted machine components, such as the *Power Switch*, *Elevation Handwheel*, and *Tilt Indicator*. The *Relocated Tilt Handwheel* operates smoothly, with no more effort than when it was mounted on the side of the saw - but it sure is a heck of a lot handier to use!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Handwheel Twins*
> 
> Kinda looks like a poor man's version of the new *Delta Unisaw*……………..!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Bits and Pieces and $$*
> 
> So now your next questions are going to be, *"What are the parts? Where can I buy them? and What do they cost?"* So here are some answers. You may find that substituting other parts will work just as well. Keep in mind that these are the parts I used for the *Model R4511 *- *doing a similar modification to another saw may require different parts and hardware, especially for adapting to the existing tilt shaft.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *What If My R4511 Doesn't Have a Storage Cabinet or I Have a Different Saw?
> *
> The obvious answer is 1) you could add one, or 2) you could find a *Model 4511 *on Craigslist and change saws……………!!
> 
> But let me suggest a third alternative for relocating the *Tilt Handwheel *to the front of *almost any tablesaw*.
> 
> Firstly, purchase the component parts listed above or equivalents to fit your particular saw. Altho the *Flex Coupling *could be omitted, I would recommend including it because working with wood usually isn't as precise as dealing with metal components, although with care it can be done.
> 
> Secondly, design and build a suitable enclosure for the drive components you have selected. Sometimes it is best to have the hardware in hand before fabricating anything so that you can be sure that everything is going to fit together.
> 
> As a starting point design, you might consider the concept below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would add a thin plywood or hardboard cover to the top and bottom to increase the rigidity of the enclosure and preclude dust and debris. At least one of the two covers should be removable to allow access for installation and removal of the drive train components. I would also make the two sides of the enclosure adjacent to the saw cabinet at 1 to 2 inches larger top and bottom to provide a flange for attachment of the enclosure to the saw cabinet.
> 
> *WARNING!!* This is *only *a conceptual drawing-the actual dimensions of the enclosure and the placing of components will depend upon the configuration of your saw and the drive train components selected.
> 
> Well, we have finally come to the end of this chapter. But, stay tuned…........there's more to come!
> 
> This phase of the equipment upgrade was an interesting one for me- and will be right up there near the top of my favorite changes to this tablesaw. One of the things that delights me the most is that I was able to put it together with available parts and wood scraps in the shop. And the only part alteration was to cut off the head of the bolt I used for the extension shaft and cut off the excess length of the purchased Tilt Shaft. I hope others will find this information useful. If so, please let me know-and be sure to show us some pictures if you decide to take this adventure…................
> 
> Please feel free to leave comments or constructive suggestions. All questions will be answered. And if you find any errors in the material callouts or part numbers, etc., please let me know so I can make corrections.


*falegniam*-You are very observant! Yes, I am a retired engineer and worked in the R&D field for 40+ years. I am old school and only use 2D CAD drafting for all of my projects. I guess I am too lazy to try to learn new software to work with 3D-tho I have tried it. I learned drafting in the "olden days" as my kids would say, using a T-square and triangles, so 2D orthogonal projection is much easier for me to visualize. I find that making CAD drawings of my projects *to scale *makes it really easy to make changes by cutting and pasting, or overlaying different parts to make sure they are going to fit one another. I make enough mistakes as it is, so using the CAD drawings helps minimize that! However, I have the failing that frequently I make changes in the design on the fly when I am building a project and neglect to go back and update the drawings! As others have found, when trying to explain something to someone else, it is indeed true that a picture or drawing is worth a thousand words. Thanks for your encouraging comments.

*b2rtch* -Thanks Bert. I'm glad I had the opportunity to share my ideas and information. I, too used to use McMaster-Carr when I worked. I was delighted to find out that they also sell retail and there is no minimum order restriction.


----------



## rmammen

paulnwa said:


> *Relocated Tilt Handwheel -- Finally Making It Happen*
> 
> *My Turn-The-Corner-Thingy Selection*
> 
> My first choice was to use a small right angle gearbox, but I was unable to come up with any miniature ones with my Google searches. Fellow LJer *DIYaholic *pointed out some really skookum looking ones yesterday from sources that I somehow missed when I was searching. (Thanks, Randy - I tucked those references away in my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy* file for future projects.) Had I seen them, I might have gone that direction. The only right angle gearboxes I could find were too large and cost half as much as my saw!
> 
> But in spite of that, my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy* quest has come to a successful conclusion! The winner is the *Milescraft Drill 90 Right Angle Drill Drive*,* Model #1390*, which I purchased at my local *Lowes *store for less than $20. That said, there are other similar products that would probably work just as well, such as the compact *Milescraft Drive 90 #1302* suggested yesterday by LJer *Kiefer*. Please don't let my choices limit your thinking.
> 
> Note that my selected *Milescraft *product is very similar to the *Vermont-American Model 17172* suggested by LJer *DIYaholic *yesterday. I had seen this *V-A *model on *Amazon.com*, but it had some accessories that I knew I wasn't going to use and the price was a little higher than the *Milescraft*. I suspect that the two would be interchangeable. But the biggest driver was that I wanted to purchase something that I could get locally so that I could return it easily if it wasn't going to work for this application.
> 
> The *Milescraft Drill 90 *is a right angle drill drive with 1:1 ratio, powder metal bevel gears and bronze bearings. For this application, I didn't feel that the plastic case was a detractor because of the intermittent usage, low rotational speeds, and low stress mounting design. The integral chuck would be ideal for gripping the extended *Tilt Shaft *without having to fabricate or purchase any other adapters. This is not a precision device, but it is more than adequate for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Designing and Packaging the Drive Train
> *
> 
> Having selected my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy*, I was ready to develop a design for the rest of the drive train, which would meet my previously specified criteria, and a way to package it.
> 
> *Design Criteria*
> 
> • Low Cost
> • Simple Configuration
> • Use Available Components
> • Accommodate Possible Shaft Misalignment
> • Reduce or Eliminate Lubrication
> • Retain Original Handwheel Attachment
> • Be Contained within the Envelope of the Saw Table and Fence Rail
> 
> The photo below is what I came up with for the *Right Angle Drive *train. Note that the *Part 15 *is already installed in the new *Tilt Shaft.*
> 
> *Correction*: It has been pointed out to me that some of the parts in the *Drive Train *have been shown out of order in the photo below: Parts *#8 & #12 *should be shown *between *the two* #11 Flange Bearings.* These parts are shown in the correct position in the parts installation photos and in the *Concept Drawing.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned before, I intended to purchase the *Tilt Shaft*, *Roll Pin*, and *Cover Plate *as *Ridgid *replacement parts. Some of the other specialized parts, such as the *Flex Coupling* components and *Shaft Collars *were purchased from *McMaster-Carr * online. The other hardware items were purchased at local hardware outlets.
> 
> As a side note, I highly recommend *McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com)* as a source for almost any hardware item you can think of. Their prices are competitive, fast order turnaround, and very reasonable shipping rates. They also have some of the best prices I have found for thin wall PVC S&D ducting fittings, including 6" sizes, for DC system fabrication.
> 
> The photo below shows the drive train components assembled in their relative positions similar to the actual installation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Coupling Nut *was an easy way to attach an extension to the existing *Tilt Shaft *projecting from the side of the saw cabinet. The extension shaft was the shank from an *8mm *hex head bolt. The *Jamb Nuts * lock the *Coupling Nut * in place to prevent loosening. The round shank of the extension shaft would be easy to secure in the *Right Angle Drive *chuck.
> 
> I incorporated the *Flex Coupling*, a low priced assembly, to minimize the effects of misalignment between the *Right Angle Drive *and the new *Tilt Shaft*. I was delighted to find that *McMaster-Carr *carried the necessary components to permit joining the *3/8"* shaft on the *Right Angle Drive *with the new *10mm Tilt Shaft*!(Would that be called a *Multi-national* connection?) The *Spider * is a Buna - N rubber component that couples the two metal hubs and provides a small measure of flexibility.
> 
> The *Shaft Collars *were incorporated to prevent any lateral movement of the new *Tilt Shaft*. Operating the *Tilt Handwheel *could tend to push the new *Tilt Shaft *inward, putting unwanted stress on the *Right **Angle Drive*. Conversely, locking the handwheel with the *Bar Knob* would tend to pull the new *Tilt Shaft *outward, disengaging the *Flex Coupling*.
> 
> The *Spyraflo Flange Bearings* are a unique design in that the bearing surfaces are made from *Acetal (Delrin), *an engineered plastic material that is widely used in industry for low load bearing, low friction, precision bearings. These bearings are also self aligning and will tolerate up to 5º misalignment - a low cost product with amazing specifications! The *Acetal *bearing material is a product with a low coefficient of friction and requires no additional lubrication.
> 
> The flat steel and nylon washers were provided to produce low friction, rotational "thrust" bearing surfaces.
> 
> *Right Angle Drive Train Installation*
> 
> As shown below, a three-sided, open top (and bottom) box was fabricated and attached to the inside of the back and the right side of the storage cabinet. So that the storage cabinet would fit tightly against the saw cabinet, a counterbore was drilled in the outside of the storage cabinet back to accommodate the thickness of the original *Cover Plate*. An oversize hole was drilled thru the cabinet back to allow access to tighten the rear *Jamb Nut*. The photo shows the *Coupling Nut *with the extended *Tilt Shaft *and *Jamb Nuts *installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below shows the *Milescraft Drill 90 Right Angle Drill Drive* installed on the extended *Tilt Shaft*. Note the oversize access hole in the side of the cabinet to allow clearance for installation and removal of the *Right Angle Drive* with the *Flex Coupling Hub* installed. The *Right Angle Drive Hub* was approximately centered in the side opening. The open top and bottom of the enclosure allowed tightening of the chuck on the shaft extension. I chose to leave the angle drive handle attachment bolt through the housing in place. I had originally considered using the bolt to attach the drive, but found it wasn't necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As shown in the following photo, a separate external enclosure was built for mounting the *Flange Bearings *and housing the rest of the drive components. The bearing supports were fabricated and drilled as a matched pair, minimizing alignment problems. Note that the *Flex Coupling *is clearly visible and that the two *Shaft Collars *sandwich the flat anti- friction washers and the *Inner Flange Bearing*. These components were installed with full engagement of the *Flex Coupling *components and adjusted to produce minimal lateral movement of the new *Tilt Shaft*, while maintaining free rotation. Note the *Right Angle Drive * is unattached on one end, constrained only by the *Flex Coupling *- this design minimizes the stress applied to the *Right Angle Drive *in operation. The *Flex Coupling *is self adjusting, accommodating any minor misalignment of components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After installation of the drive train components, the external box position was adjusted visually to produce the best alignment of the *Flex Coupling*, minimizlng misalignment between the *Right Angle Drive *and the new *Tilt Shaft*, and clamped in place. Permanent attachment of the external box to the cabinet side was then done with screws from inside the storage cabinet.
> 
> The external surfaces of the box were covered with 5mm Birch underlayment plywood to improve appearance. I didn't like the appearance of a square box that looked like it was just stuck to the side of the storage cabinet, so I added some sloped panels to make it more aesthetic- strictly foo foo-they serve no other purpose other than to make it harder for dust to stick to them. A removable access panel was incorporated into the side of the box to allow installation, removal, and adjustment of the drive train components.
> 
> The photo below shows the *Outside Flange Bearing *installation. The pairs of *Flange Bearing *mounting holes were oriented at 90º to each other. Note the screwdriver access holes for installation of the *Inner Flange Bearing *mounting screws. The *Cover Plate*, not shown in the photo, was installed over the large hole in the face of the enclosure. Installation of the *Access Cover*, *Tilt Handwheel*, and the *Bar Knob *completed the assembly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Relocated Tilt Handwheel*
> 
> So for all of you folks who have been waiting with bated breath………..here is what the *Front-Mounted Relocated Tilt Handwheel* looks like! It is totally contained within the envelope of the front overhang of the table and fence rail and the front of the storage cabinet. In addition, there is no interference with adjacent front-mounted machine components, such as the *Power Switch*, *Elevation Handwheel*, and *Tilt Indicator*. The *Relocated Tilt Handwheel* operates smoothly, with no more effort than when it was mounted on the side of the saw - but it sure is a heck of a lot handier to use!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Handwheel Twins*
> 
> Kinda looks like a poor man's version of the new *Delta Unisaw*……………..!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Bits and Pieces and $$*
> 
> So now your next questions are going to be, *"What are the parts? Where can I buy them? and What do they cost?"* So here are some answers. You may find that substituting other parts will work just as well. Keep in mind that these are the parts I used for the *Model R4511 *- *doing a similar modification to another saw may require different parts and hardware, especially for adapting to the existing tilt shaft.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *What If My R4511 Doesn't Have a Storage Cabinet or I Have a Different Saw?
> *
> The obvious answer is 1) you could add one, or 2) you could find a *Model 4511 *on Craigslist and change saws……………!!
> 
> But let me suggest a third alternative for relocating the *Tilt Handwheel *to the front of *almost any tablesaw*.
> 
> Firstly, purchase the component parts listed above or equivalents to fit your particular saw. Altho the *Flex Coupling *could be omitted, I would recommend including it because working with wood usually isn't as precise as dealing with metal components, although with care it can be done.
> 
> Secondly, design and build a suitable enclosure for the drive components you have selected. Sometimes it is best to have the hardware in hand before fabricating anything so that you can be sure that everything is going to fit together.
> 
> As a starting point design, you might consider the concept below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would add a thin plywood or hardboard cover to the top and bottom to increase the rigidity of the enclosure and preclude dust and debris. At least one of the two covers should be removable to allow access for installation and removal of the drive train components. I would also make the two sides of the enclosure adjacent to the saw cabinet at 1 to 2 inches larger top and bottom to provide a flange for attachment of the enclosure to the saw cabinet.
> 
> *WARNING!!* This is *only *a conceptual drawing-the actual dimensions of the enclosure and the placing of components will depend upon the configuration of your saw and the drive train components selected.
> 
> Well, we have finally come to the end of this chapter. But, stay tuned…........there's more to come!
> 
> This phase of the equipment upgrade was an interesting one for me- and will be right up there near the top of my favorite changes to this tablesaw. One of the things that delights me the most is that I was able to put it together with available parts and wood scraps in the shop. And the only part alteration was to cut off the head of the bolt I used for the extension shaft and cut off the excess length of the purchased Tilt Shaft. I hope others will find this information useful. If so, please let me know-and be sure to show us some pictures if you decide to take this adventure…................
> 
> Please feel free to leave comments or constructive suggestions. All questions will be answered. And if you find any errors in the material callouts or part numbers, etc., please let me know so I can make corrections.


I am impressed with this modification. the engineering behind it looks to be elcellent. Nice going and thanks for sharing the idea.


----------



## paulnwa

paulnwa said:


> *Relocated Tilt Handwheel -- Finally Making It Happen*
> 
> *My Turn-The-Corner-Thingy Selection*
> 
> My first choice was to use a small right angle gearbox, but I was unable to come up with any miniature ones with my Google searches. Fellow LJer *DIYaholic *pointed out some really skookum looking ones yesterday from sources that I somehow missed when I was searching. (Thanks, Randy - I tucked those references away in my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy* file for future projects.) Had I seen them, I might have gone that direction. The only right angle gearboxes I could find were too large and cost half as much as my saw!
> 
> But in spite of that, my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy* quest has come to a successful conclusion! The winner is the *Milescraft Drill 90 Right Angle Drill Drive*,* Model #1390*, which I purchased at my local *Lowes *store for less than $20. That said, there are other similar products that would probably work just as well, such as the compact *Milescraft Drive 90 #1302* suggested yesterday by LJer *Kiefer*. Please don't let my choices limit your thinking.
> 
> Note that my selected *Milescraft *product is very similar to the *Vermont-American Model 17172* suggested by LJer *DIYaholic *yesterday. I had seen this *V-A *model on *Amazon.com*, but it had some accessories that I knew I wasn't going to use and the price was a little higher than the *Milescraft*. I suspect that the two would be interchangeable. But the biggest driver was that I wanted to purchase something that I could get locally so that I could return it easily if it wasn't going to work for this application.
> 
> The *Milescraft Drill 90 *is a right angle drill drive with 1:1 ratio, powder metal bevel gears and bronze bearings. For this application, I didn't feel that the plastic case was a detractor because of the intermittent usage, low rotational speeds, and low stress mounting design. The integral chuck would be ideal for gripping the extended *Tilt Shaft *without having to fabricate or purchase any other adapters. This is not a precision device, but it is more than adequate for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Designing and Packaging the Drive Train
> *
> 
> Having selected my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy*, I was ready to develop a design for the rest of the drive train, which would meet my previously specified criteria, and a way to package it.
> 
> *Design Criteria*
> 
> • Low Cost
> • Simple Configuration
> • Use Available Components
> • Accommodate Possible Shaft Misalignment
> • Reduce or Eliminate Lubrication
> • Retain Original Handwheel Attachment
> • Be Contained within the Envelope of the Saw Table and Fence Rail
> 
> The photo below is what I came up with for the *Right Angle Drive *train. Note that the *Part 15 *is already installed in the new *Tilt Shaft.*
> 
> *Correction*: It has been pointed out to me that some of the parts in the *Drive Train *have been shown out of order in the photo below: Parts *#8 & #12 *should be shown *between *the two* #11 Flange Bearings.* These parts are shown in the correct position in the parts installation photos and in the *Concept Drawing.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned before, I intended to purchase the *Tilt Shaft*, *Roll Pin*, and *Cover Plate *as *Ridgid *replacement parts. Some of the other specialized parts, such as the *Flex Coupling* components and *Shaft Collars *were purchased from *McMaster-Carr * online. The other hardware items were purchased at local hardware outlets.
> 
> As a side note, I highly recommend *McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com)* as a source for almost any hardware item you can think of. Their prices are competitive, fast order turnaround, and very reasonable shipping rates. They also have some of the best prices I have found for thin wall PVC S&D ducting fittings, including 6" sizes, for DC system fabrication.
> 
> The photo below shows the drive train components assembled in their relative positions similar to the actual installation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Coupling Nut *was an easy way to attach an extension to the existing *Tilt Shaft *projecting from the side of the saw cabinet. The extension shaft was the shank from an *8mm *hex head bolt. The *Jamb Nuts * lock the *Coupling Nut * in place to prevent loosening. The round shank of the extension shaft would be easy to secure in the *Right Angle Drive *chuck.
> 
> I incorporated the *Flex Coupling*, a low priced assembly, to minimize the effects of misalignment between the *Right Angle Drive *and the new *Tilt Shaft*. I was delighted to find that *McMaster-Carr *carried the necessary components to permit joining the *3/8"* shaft on the *Right Angle Drive *with the new *10mm Tilt Shaft*!(Would that be called a *Multi-national* connection?) The *Spider * is a Buna - N rubber component that couples the two metal hubs and provides a small measure of flexibility.
> 
> The *Shaft Collars *were incorporated to prevent any lateral movement of the new *Tilt Shaft*. Operating the *Tilt Handwheel *could tend to push the new *Tilt Shaft *inward, putting unwanted stress on the *Right **Angle Drive*. Conversely, locking the handwheel with the *Bar Knob* would tend to pull the new *Tilt Shaft *outward, disengaging the *Flex Coupling*.
> 
> The *Spyraflo Flange Bearings* are a unique design in that the bearing surfaces are made from *Acetal (Delrin), *an engineered plastic material that is widely used in industry for low load bearing, low friction, precision bearings. These bearings are also self aligning and will tolerate up to 5º misalignment - a low cost product with amazing specifications! The *Acetal *bearing material is a product with a low coefficient of friction and requires no additional lubrication.
> 
> The flat steel and nylon washers were provided to produce low friction, rotational "thrust" bearing surfaces.
> 
> *Right Angle Drive Train Installation*
> 
> As shown below, a three-sided, open top (and bottom) box was fabricated and attached to the inside of the back and the right side of the storage cabinet. So that the storage cabinet would fit tightly against the saw cabinet, a counterbore was drilled in the outside of the storage cabinet back to accommodate the thickness of the original *Cover Plate*. An oversize hole was drilled thru the cabinet back to allow access to tighten the rear *Jamb Nut*. The photo shows the *Coupling Nut *with the extended *Tilt Shaft *and *Jamb Nuts *installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below shows the *Milescraft Drill 90 Right Angle Drill Drive* installed on the extended *Tilt Shaft*. Note the oversize access hole in the side of the cabinet to allow clearance for installation and removal of the *Right Angle Drive* with the *Flex Coupling Hub* installed. The *Right Angle Drive Hub* was approximately centered in the side opening. The open top and bottom of the enclosure allowed tightening of the chuck on the shaft extension. I chose to leave the angle drive handle attachment bolt through the housing in place. I had originally considered using the bolt to attach the drive, but found it wasn't necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As shown in the following photo, a separate external enclosure was built for mounting the *Flange Bearings *and housing the rest of the drive components. The bearing supports were fabricated and drilled as a matched pair, minimizing alignment problems. Note that the *Flex Coupling *is clearly visible and that the two *Shaft Collars *sandwich the flat anti- friction washers and the *Inner Flange Bearing*. These components were installed with full engagement of the *Flex Coupling *components and adjusted to produce minimal lateral movement of the new *Tilt Shaft*, while maintaining free rotation. Note the *Right Angle Drive * is unattached on one end, constrained only by the *Flex Coupling *- this design minimizes the stress applied to the *Right Angle Drive *in operation. The *Flex Coupling *is self adjusting, accommodating any minor misalignment of components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After installation of the drive train components, the external box position was adjusted visually to produce the best alignment of the *Flex Coupling*, minimizlng misalignment between the *Right Angle Drive *and the new *Tilt Shaft*, and clamped in place. Permanent attachment of the external box to the cabinet side was then done with screws from inside the storage cabinet.
> 
> The external surfaces of the box were covered with 5mm Birch underlayment plywood to improve appearance. I didn't like the appearance of a square box that looked like it was just stuck to the side of the storage cabinet, so I added some sloped panels to make it more aesthetic- strictly foo foo-they serve no other purpose other than to make it harder for dust to stick to them. A removable access panel was incorporated into the side of the box to allow installation, removal, and adjustment of the drive train components.
> 
> The photo below shows the *Outside Flange Bearing *installation. The pairs of *Flange Bearing *mounting holes were oriented at 90º to each other. Note the screwdriver access holes for installation of the *Inner Flange Bearing *mounting screws. The *Cover Plate*, not shown in the photo, was installed over the large hole in the face of the enclosure. Installation of the *Access Cover*, *Tilt Handwheel*, and the *Bar Knob *completed the assembly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Relocated Tilt Handwheel*
> 
> So for all of you folks who have been waiting with bated breath………..here is what the *Front-Mounted Relocated Tilt Handwheel* looks like! It is totally contained within the envelope of the front overhang of the table and fence rail and the front of the storage cabinet. In addition, there is no interference with adjacent front-mounted machine components, such as the *Power Switch*, *Elevation Handwheel*, and *Tilt Indicator*. The *Relocated Tilt Handwheel* operates smoothly, with no more effort than when it was mounted on the side of the saw - but it sure is a heck of a lot handier to use!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Handwheel Twins*
> 
> Kinda looks like a poor man's version of the new *Delta Unisaw*……………..!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Bits and Pieces and $$*
> 
> So now your next questions are going to be, *"What are the parts? Where can I buy them? and What do they cost?"* So here are some answers. You may find that substituting other parts will work just as well. Keep in mind that these are the parts I used for the *Model R4511 *- *doing a similar modification to another saw may require different parts and hardware, especially for adapting to the existing tilt shaft.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *What If My R4511 Doesn't Have a Storage Cabinet or I Have a Different Saw?
> *
> The obvious answer is 1) you could add one, or 2) you could find a *Model 4511 *on Craigslist and change saws……………!!
> 
> But let me suggest a third alternative for relocating the *Tilt Handwheel *to the front of *almost any tablesaw*.
> 
> Firstly, purchase the component parts listed above or equivalents to fit your particular saw. Altho the *Flex Coupling *could be omitted, I would recommend including it because working with wood usually isn't as precise as dealing with metal components, although with care it can be done.
> 
> Secondly, design and build a suitable enclosure for the drive components you have selected. Sometimes it is best to have the hardware in hand before fabricating anything so that you can be sure that everything is going to fit together.
> 
> As a starting point design, you might consider the concept below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would add a thin plywood or hardboard cover to the top and bottom to increase the rigidity of the enclosure and preclude dust and debris. At least one of the two covers should be removable to allow access for installation and removal of the drive train components. I would also make the two sides of the enclosure adjacent to the saw cabinet at 1 to 2 inches larger top and bottom to provide a flange for attachment of the enclosure to the saw cabinet.
> 
> *WARNING!!* This is *only *a conceptual drawing-the actual dimensions of the enclosure and the placing of components will depend upon the configuration of your saw and the drive train components selected.
> 
> Well, we have finally come to the end of this chapter. But, stay tuned…........there's more to come!
> 
> This phase of the equipment upgrade was an interesting one for me- and will be right up there near the top of my favorite changes to this tablesaw. One of the things that delights me the most is that I was able to put it together with available parts and wood scraps in the shop. And the only part alteration was to cut off the head of the bolt I used for the extension shaft and cut off the excess length of the purchased Tilt Shaft. I hope others will find this information useful. If so, please let me know-and be sure to show us some pictures if you decide to take this adventure…................
> 
> Please feel free to leave comments or constructive suggestions. All questions will be answered. And if you find any errors in the material callouts or part numbers, etc., please let me know so I can make corrections.


Thanks, *Rob*. It really was a rather simple modification to make. I was delighted that I could find off-the-shelf bits and pieces to put it together, with nothing left over but the bolt head and an extra piece of the Tilt Shaft!
It was fun to engineer and it works very smoothly. And it kinda looks like it grew there…..........


----------



## toolie

paulnwa said:


> *Relocated Tilt Handwheel -- Finally Making It Happen*
> 
> *My Turn-The-Corner-Thingy Selection*
> 
> My first choice was to use a small right angle gearbox, but I was unable to come up with any miniature ones with my Google searches. Fellow LJer *DIYaholic *pointed out some really skookum looking ones yesterday from sources that I somehow missed when I was searching. (Thanks, Randy - I tucked those references away in my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy* file for future projects.) Had I seen them, I might have gone that direction. The only right angle gearboxes I could find were too large and cost half as much as my saw!
> 
> But in spite of that, my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy* quest has come to a successful conclusion! The winner is the *Milescraft Drill 90 Right Angle Drill Drive*,* Model #1390*, which I purchased at my local *Lowes *store for less than $20. That said, there are other similar products that would probably work just as well, such as the compact *Milescraft Drive 90 #1302* suggested yesterday by LJer *Kiefer*. Please don't let my choices limit your thinking.
> 
> Note that my selected *Milescraft *product is very similar to the *Vermont-American Model 17172* suggested by LJer *DIYaholic *yesterday. I had seen this *V-A *model on *Amazon.com*, but it had some accessories that I knew I wasn't going to use and the price was a little higher than the *Milescraft*. I suspect that the two would be interchangeable. But the biggest driver was that I wanted to purchase something that I could get locally so that I could return it easily if it wasn't going to work for this application.
> 
> The *Milescraft Drill 90 *is a right angle drill drive with 1:1 ratio, powder metal bevel gears and bronze bearings. For this application, I didn't feel that the plastic case was a detractor because of the intermittent usage, low rotational speeds, and low stress mounting design. The integral chuck would be ideal for gripping the extended *Tilt Shaft *without having to fabricate or purchase any other adapters. This is not a precision device, but it is more than adequate for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Designing and Packaging the Drive Train
> *
> 
> Having selected my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy*, I was ready to develop a design for the rest of the drive train, which would meet my previously specified criteria, and a way to package it.
> 
> *Design Criteria*
> 
> • Low Cost
> • Simple Configuration
> • Use Available Components
> • Accommodate Possible Shaft Misalignment
> • Reduce or Eliminate Lubrication
> • Retain Original Handwheel Attachment
> • Be Contained within the Envelope of the Saw Table and Fence Rail
> 
> The photo below is what I came up with for the *Right Angle Drive *train. Note that the *Part 15 *is already installed in the new *Tilt Shaft.*
> 
> *Correction*: It has been pointed out to me that some of the parts in the *Drive Train *have been shown out of order in the photo below: Parts *#8 & #12 *should be shown *between *the two* #11 Flange Bearings.* These parts are shown in the correct position in the parts installation photos and in the *Concept Drawing.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned before, I intended to purchase the *Tilt Shaft*, *Roll Pin*, and *Cover Plate *as *Ridgid *replacement parts. Some of the other specialized parts, such as the *Flex Coupling* components and *Shaft Collars *were purchased from *McMaster-Carr * online. The other hardware items were purchased at local hardware outlets.
> 
> As a side note, I highly recommend *McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com)* as a source for almost any hardware item you can think of. Their prices are competitive, fast order turnaround, and very reasonable shipping rates. They also have some of the best prices I have found for thin wall PVC S&D ducting fittings, including 6" sizes, for DC system fabrication.
> 
> The photo below shows the drive train components assembled in their relative positions similar to the actual installation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Coupling Nut *was an easy way to attach an extension to the existing *Tilt Shaft *projecting from the side of the saw cabinet. The extension shaft was the shank from an *8mm *hex head bolt. The *Jamb Nuts * lock the *Coupling Nut * in place to prevent loosening. The round shank of the extension shaft would be easy to secure in the *Right Angle Drive *chuck.
> 
> I incorporated the *Flex Coupling*, a low priced assembly, to minimize the effects of misalignment between the *Right Angle Drive *and the new *Tilt Shaft*. I was delighted to find that *McMaster-Carr *carried the necessary components to permit joining the *3/8"* shaft on the *Right Angle Drive *with the new *10mm Tilt Shaft*!(Would that be called a *Multi-national* connection?) The *Spider * is a Buna - N rubber component that couples the two metal hubs and provides a small measure of flexibility.
> 
> The *Shaft Collars *were incorporated to prevent any lateral movement of the new *Tilt Shaft*. Operating the *Tilt Handwheel *could tend to push the new *Tilt Shaft *inward, putting unwanted stress on the *Right **Angle Drive*. Conversely, locking the handwheel with the *Bar Knob* would tend to pull the new *Tilt Shaft *outward, disengaging the *Flex Coupling*.
> 
> The *Spyraflo Flange Bearings* are a unique design in that the bearing surfaces are made from *Acetal (Delrin), *an engineered plastic material that is widely used in industry for low load bearing, low friction, precision bearings. These bearings are also self aligning and will tolerate up to 5º misalignment - a low cost product with amazing specifications! The *Acetal *bearing material is a product with a low coefficient of friction and requires no additional lubrication.
> 
> The flat steel and nylon washers were provided to produce low friction, rotational "thrust" bearing surfaces.
> 
> *Right Angle Drive Train Installation*
> 
> As shown below, a three-sided, open top (and bottom) box was fabricated and attached to the inside of the back and the right side of the storage cabinet. So that the storage cabinet would fit tightly against the saw cabinet, a counterbore was drilled in the outside of the storage cabinet back to accommodate the thickness of the original *Cover Plate*. An oversize hole was drilled thru the cabinet back to allow access to tighten the rear *Jamb Nut*. The photo shows the *Coupling Nut *with the extended *Tilt Shaft *and *Jamb Nuts *installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below shows the *Milescraft Drill 90 Right Angle Drill Drive* installed on the extended *Tilt Shaft*. Note the oversize access hole in the side of the cabinet to allow clearance for installation and removal of the *Right Angle Drive* with the *Flex Coupling Hub* installed. The *Right Angle Drive Hub* was approximately centered in the side opening. The open top and bottom of the enclosure allowed tightening of the chuck on the shaft extension. I chose to leave the angle drive handle attachment bolt through the housing in place. I had originally considered using the bolt to attach the drive, but found it wasn't necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As shown in the following photo, a separate external enclosure was built for mounting the *Flange Bearings *and housing the rest of the drive components. The bearing supports were fabricated and drilled as a matched pair, minimizing alignment problems. Note that the *Flex Coupling *is clearly visible and that the two *Shaft Collars *sandwich the flat anti- friction washers and the *Inner Flange Bearing*. These components were installed with full engagement of the *Flex Coupling *components and adjusted to produce minimal lateral movement of the new *Tilt Shaft*, while maintaining free rotation. Note the *Right Angle Drive * is unattached on one end, constrained only by the *Flex Coupling *- this design minimizes the stress applied to the *Right Angle Drive *in operation. The *Flex Coupling *is self adjusting, accommodating any minor misalignment of components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After installation of the drive train components, the external box position was adjusted visually to produce the best alignment of the *Flex Coupling*, minimizlng misalignment between the *Right Angle Drive *and the new *Tilt Shaft*, and clamped in place. Permanent attachment of the external box to the cabinet side was then done with screws from inside the storage cabinet.
> 
> The external surfaces of the box were covered with 5mm Birch underlayment plywood to improve appearance. I didn't like the appearance of a square box that looked like it was just stuck to the side of the storage cabinet, so I added some sloped panels to make it more aesthetic- strictly foo foo-they serve no other purpose other than to make it harder for dust to stick to them. A removable access panel was incorporated into the side of the box to allow installation, removal, and adjustment of the drive train components.
> 
> The photo below shows the *Outside Flange Bearing *installation. The pairs of *Flange Bearing *mounting holes were oriented at 90º to each other. Note the screwdriver access holes for installation of the *Inner Flange Bearing *mounting screws. The *Cover Plate*, not shown in the photo, was installed over the large hole in the face of the enclosure. Installation of the *Access Cover*, *Tilt Handwheel*, and the *Bar Knob *completed the assembly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Relocated Tilt Handwheel*
> 
> So for all of you folks who have been waiting with bated breath………..here is what the *Front-Mounted Relocated Tilt Handwheel* looks like! It is totally contained within the envelope of the front overhang of the table and fence rail and the front of the storage cabinet. In addition, there is no interference with adjacent front-mounted machine components, such as the *Power Switch*, *Elevation Handwheel*, and *Tilt Indicator*. The *Relocated Tilt Handwheel* operates smoothly, with no more effort than when it was mounted on the side of the saw - but it sure is a heck of a lot handier to use!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Handwheel Twins*
> 
> Kinda looks like a poor man's version of the new *Delta Unisaw*……………..!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Bits and Pieces and $$*
> 
> So now your next questions are going to be, *"What are the parts? Where can I buy them? and What do they cost?"* So here are some answers. You may find that substituting other parts will work just as well. Keep in mind that these are the parts I used for the *Model R4511 *- *doing a similar modification to another saw may require different parts and hardware, especially for adapting to the existing tilt shaft.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *What If My R4511 Doesn't Have a Storage Cabinet or I Have a Different Saw?
> *
> The obvious answer is 1) you could add one, or 2) you could find a *Model 4511 *on Craigslist and change saws……………!!
> 
> But let me suggest a third alternative for relocating the *Tilt Handwheel *to the front of *almost any tablesaw*.
> 
> Firstly, purchase the component parts listed above or equivalents to fit your particular saw. Altho the *Flex Coupling *could be omitted, I would recommend including it because working with wood usually isn't as precise as dealing with metal components, although with care it can be done.
> 
> Secondly, design and build a suitable enclosure for the drive components you have selected. Sometimes it is best to have the hardware in hand before fabricating anything so that you can be sure that everything is going to fit together.
> 
> As a starting point design, you might consider the concept below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would add a thin plywood or hardboard cover to the top and bottom to increase the rigidity of the enclosure and preclude dust and debris. At least one of the two covers should be removable to allow access for installation and removal of the drive train components. I would also make the two sides of the enclosure adjacent to the saw cabinet at 1 to 2 inches larger top and bottom to provide a flange for attachment of the enclosure to the saw cabinet.
> 
> *WARNING!!* This is *only *a conceptual drawing-the actual dimensions of the enclosure and the placing of components will depend upon the configuration of your saw and the drive train components selected.
> 
> Well, we have finally come to the end of this chapter. But, stay tuned…........there's more to come!
> 
> This phase of the equipment upgrade was an interesting one for me- and will be right up there near the top of my favorite changes to this tablesaw. One of the things that delights me the most is that I was able to put it together with available parts and wood scraps in the shop. And the only part alteration was to cut off the head of the bolt I used for the extension shaft and cut off the excess length of the purchased Tilt Shaft. I hope others will find this information useful. If so, please let me know-and be sure to show us some pictures if you decide to take this adventure…................
> 
> Please feel free to leave comments or constructive suggestions. All questions will be answered. And if you find any errors in the material callouts or part numbers, etc., please let me know so I can make corrections.


paul, ever had a problem keeping the RA drill chock tightened on the saw's bevel rod? and, being pretty cheap (or is it "green"), i'm trying to think of a way to repurpose the column raising mechanism of older (radial 100) craftsman radial arm saw. i've removed the column support, elevation crank shaft asembly and the elevation shaft assembly from a c-man RAS. any thoughts you would be willing to provide regarding attaching the TSs bevel rod (similar to that on your 4511) to the elevation shaft assembly rod (part 28 in figure 2 of this manual) would be greatly appreciated.

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=2856


----------



## toolie

paulnwa said:


> *Relocated Tilt Handwheel -- Finally Making It Happen*
> 
> *My Turn-The-Corner-Thingy Selection*
> 
> My first choice was to use a small right angle gearbox, but I was unable to come up with any miniature ones with my Google searches. Fellow LJer *DIYaholic *pointed out some really skookum looking ones yesterday from sources that I somehow missed when I was searching. (Thanks, Randy - I tucked those references away in my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy* file for future projects.) Had I seen them, I might have gone that direction. The only right angle gearboxes I could find were too large and cost half as much as my saw!
> 
> But in spite of that, my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy* quest has come to a successful conclusion! The winner is the *Milescraft Drill 90 Right Angle Drill Drive*,* Model #1390*, which I purchased at my local *Lowes *store for less than $20. That said, there are other similar products that would probably work just as well, such as the compact *Milescraft Drive 90 #1302* suggested yesterday by LJer *Kiefer*. Please don't let my choices limit your thinking.
> 
> Note that my selected *Milescraft *product is very similar to the *Vermont-American Model 17172* suggested by LJer *DIYaholic *yesterday. I had seen this *V-A *model on *Amazon.com*, but it had some accessories that I knew I wasn't going to use and the price was a little higher than the *Milescraft*. I suspect that the two would be interchangeable. But the biggest driver was that I wanted to purchase something that I could get locally so that I could return it easily if it wasn't going to work for this application.
> 
> The *Milescraft Drill 90 *is a right angle drill drive with 1:1 ratio, powder metal bevel gears and bronze bearings. For this application, I didn't feel that the plastic case was a detractor because of the intermittent usage, low rotational speeds, and low stress mounting design. The integral chuck would be ideal for gripping the extended *Tilt Shaft *without having to fabricate or purchase any other adapters. This is not a precision device, but it is more than adequate for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Designing and Packaging the Drive Train
> *
> 
> Having selected my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy*, I was ready to develop a design for the rest of the drive train, which would meet my previously specified criteria, and a way to package it.
> 
> *Design Criteria*
> 
> • Low Cost
> • Simple Configuration
> • Use Available Components
> • Accommodate Possible Shaft Misalignment
> • Reduce or Eliminate Lubrication
> • Retain Original Handwheel Attachment
> • Be Contained within the Envelope of the Saw Table and Fence Rail
> 
> The photo below is what I came up with for the *Right Angle Drive *train. Note that the *Part 15 *is already installed in the new *Tilt Shaft.*
> 
> *Correction*: It has been pointed out to me that some of the parts in the *Drive Train *have been shown out of order in the photo below: Parts *#8 & #12 *should be shown *between *the two* #11 Flange Bearings.* These parts are shown in the correct position in the parts installation photos and in the *Concept Drawing.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned before, I intended to purchase the *Tilt Shaft*, *Roll Pin*, and *Cover Plate *as *Ridgid *replacement parts. Some of the other specialized parts, such as the *Flex Coupling* components and *Shaft Collars *were purchased from *McMaster-Carr * online. The other hardware items were purchased at local hardware outlets.
> 
> As a side note, I highly recommend *McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com)* as a source for almost any hardware item you can think of. Their prices are competitive, fast order turnaround, and very reasonable shipping rates. They also have some of the best prices I have found for thin wall PVC S&D ducting fittings, including 6" sizes, for DC system fabrication.
> 
> The photo below shows the drive train components assembled in their relative positions similar to the actual installation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Coupling Nut *was an easy way to attach an extension to the existing *Tilt Shaft *projecting from the side of the saw cabinet. The extension shaft was the shank from an *8mm *hex head bolt. The *Jamb Nuts * lock the *Coupling Nut * in place to prevent loosening. The round shank of the extension shaft would be easy to secure in the *Right Angle Drive *chuck.
> 
> I incorporated the *Flex Coupling*, a low priced assembly, to minimize the effects of misalignment between the *Right Angle Drive *and the new *Tilt Shaft*. I was delighted to find that *McMaster-Carr *carried the necessary components to permit joining the *3/8"* shaft on the *Right Angle Drive *with the new *10mm Tilt Shaft*!(Would that be called a *Multi-national* connection?) The *Spider * is a Buna - N rubber component that couples the two metal hubs and provides a small measure of flexibility.
> 
> The *Shaft Collars *were incorporated to prevent any lateral movement of the new *Tilt Shaft*. Operating the *Tilt Handwheel *could tend to push the new *Tilt Shaft *inward, putting unwanted stress on the *Right **Angle Drive*. Conversely, locking the handwheel with the *Bar Knob* would tend to pull the new *Tilt Shaft *outward, disengaging the *Flex Coupling*.
> 
> The *Spyraflo Flange Bearings* are a unique design in that the bearing surfaces are made from *Acetal (Delrin), *an engineered plastic material that is widely used in industry for low load bearing, low friction, precision bearings. These bearings are also self aligning and will tolerate up to 5º misalignment - a low cost product with amazing specifications! The *Acetal *bearing material is a product with a low coefficient of friction and requires no additional lubrication.
> 
> The flat steel and nylon washers were provided to produce low friction, rotational "thrust" bearing surfaces.
> 
> *Right Angle Drive Train Installation*
> 
> As shown below, a three-sided, open top (and bottom) box was fabricated and attached to the inside of the back and the right side of the storage cabinet. So that the storage cabinet would fit tightly against the saw cabinet, a counterbore was drilled in the outside of the storage cabinet back to accommodate the thickness of the original *Cover Plate*. An oversize hole was drilled thru the cabinet back to allow access to tighten the rear *Jamb Nut*. The photo shows the *Coupling Nut *with the extended *Tilt Shaft *and *Jamb Nuts *installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below shows the *Milescraft Drill 90 Right Angle Drill Drive* installed on the extended *Tilt Shaft*. Note the oversize access hole in the side of the cabinet to allow clearance for installation and removal of the *Right Angle Drive* with the *Flex Coupling Hub* installed. The *Right Angle Drive Hub* was approximately centered in the side opening. The open top and bottom of the enclosure allowed tightening of the chuck on the shaft extension. I chose to leave the angle drive handle attachment bolt through the housing in place. I had originally considered using the bolt to attach the drive, but found it wasn't necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As shown in the following photo, a separate external enclosure was built for mounting the *Flange Bearings *and housing the rest of the drive components. The bearing supports were fabricated and drilled as a matched pair, minimizing alignment problems. Note that the *Flex Coupling *is clearly visible and that the two *Shaft Collars *sandwich the flat anti- friction washers and the *Inner Flange Bearing*. These components were installed with full engagement of the *Flex Coupling *components and adjusted to produce minimal lateral movement of the new *Tilt Shaft*, while maintaining free rotation. Note the *Right Angle Drive * is unattached on one end, constrained only by the *Flex Coupling *- this design minimizes the stress applied to the *Right Angle Drive *in operation. The *Flex Coupling *is self adjusting, accommodating any minor misalignment of components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After installation of the drive train components, the external box position was adjusted visually to produce the best alignment of the *Flex Coupling*, minimizlng misalignment between the *Right Angle Drive *and the new *Tilt Shaft*, and clamped in place. Permanent attachment of the external box to the cabinet side was then done with screws from inside the storage cabinet.
> 
> The external surfaces of the box were covered with 5mm Birch underlayment plywood to improve appearance. I didn't like the appearance of a square box that looked like it was just stuck to the side of the storage cabinet, so I added some sloped panels to make it more aesthetic- strictly foo foo-they serve no other purpose other than to make it harder for dust to stick to them. A removable access panel was incorporated into the side of the box to allow installation, removal, and adjustment of the drive train components.
> 
> The photo below shows the *Outside Flange Bearing *installation. The pairs of *Flange Bearing *mounting holes were oriented at 90º to each other. Note the screwdriver access holes for installation of the *Inner Flange Bearing *mounting screws. The *Cover Plate*, not shown in the photo, was installed over the large hole in the face of the enclosure. Installation of the *Access Cover*, *Tilt Handwheel*, and the *Bar Knob *completed the assembly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Relocated Tilt Handwheel*
> 
> So for all of you folks who have been waiting with bated breath………..here is what the *Front-Mounted Relocated Tilt Handwheel* looks like! It is totally contained within the envelope of the front overhang of the table and fence rail and the front of the storage cabinet. In addition, there is no interference with adjacent front-mounted machine components, such as the *Power Switch*, *Elevation Handwheel*, and *Tilt Indicator*. The *Relocated Tilt Handwheel* operates smoothly, with no more effort than when it was mounted on the side of the saw - but it sure is a heck of a lot handier to use!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Handwheel Twins*
> 
> Kinda looks like a poor man's version of the new *Delta Unisaw*……………..!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Bits and Pieces and $$*
> 
> So now your next questions are going to be, *"What are the parts? Where can I buy them? and What do they cost?"* So here are some answers. You may find that substituting other parts will work just as well. Keep in mind that these are the parts I used for the *Model R4511 *- *doing a similar modification to another saw may require different parts and hardware, especially for adapting to the existing tilt shaft.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *What If My R4511 Doesn't Have a Storage Cabinet or I Have a Different Saw?
> *
> The obvious answer is 1) you could add one, or 2) you could find a *Model 4511 *on Craigslist and change saws……………!!
> 
> But let me suggest a third alternative for relocating the *Tilt Handwheel *to the front of *almost any tablesaw*.
> 
> Firstly, purchase the component parts listed above or equivalents to fit your particular saw. Altho the *Flex Coupling *could be omitted, I would recommend including it because working with wood usually isn't as precise as dealing with metal components, although with care it can be done.
> 
> Secondly, design and build a suitable enclosure for the drive components you have selected. Sometimes it is best to have the hardware in hand before fabricating anything so that you can be sure that everything is going to fit together.
> 
> As a starting point design, you might consider the concept below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would add a thin plywood or hardboard cover to the top and bottom to increase the rigidity of the enclosure and preclude dust and debris. At least one of the two covers should be removable to allow access for installation and removal of the drive train components. I would also make the two sides of the enclosure adjacent to the saw cabinet at 1 to 2 inches larger top and bottom to provide a flange for attachment of the enclosure to the saw cabinet.
> 
> *WARNING!!* This is *only *a conceptual drawing-the actual dimensions of the enclosure and the placing of components will depend upon the configuration of your saw and the drive train components selected.
> 
> Well, we have finally come to the end of this chapter. But, stay tuned…........there's more to come!
> 
> This phase of the equipment upgrade was an interesting one for me- and will be right up there near the top of my favorite changes to this tablesaw. One of the things that delights me the most is that I was able to put it together with available parts and wood scraps in the shop. And the only part alteration was to cut off the head of the bolt I used for the extension shaft and cut off the excess length of the purchased Tilt Shaft. I hope others will find this information useful. If so, please let me know-and be sure to show us some pictures if you decide to take this adventure…................
> 
> Please feel free to leave comments or constructive suggestions. All questions will be answered. And if you find any errors in the material callouts or part numbers, etc., please let me know so I can make corrections.


paul, one more thing. the MMC part numbers for parts 5 and 7 in the Parts List for Model r4511 Tilt Hadwheel Relocation…..are they actually 6408k13 and 6413k12, respectively? also, is the MMC part number for part number 2 on the parts list actually 93355a105? thanks.


----------



## paulnwa

paulnwa said:


> *Relocated Tilt Handwheel -- Finally Making It Happen*
> 
> *My Turn-The-Corner-Thingy Selection*
> 
> My first choice was to use a small right angle gearbox, but I was unable to come up with any miniature ones with my Google searches. Fellow LJer *DIYaholic *pointed out some really skookum looking ones yesterday from sources that I somehow missed when I was searching. (Thanks, Randy - I tucked those references away in my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy* file for future projects.) Had I seen them, I might have gone that direction. The only right angle gearboxes I could find were too large and cost half as much as my saw!
> 
> But in spite of that, my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy* quest has come to a successful conclusion! The winner is the *Milescraft Drill 90 Right Angle Drill Drive*,* Model #1390*, which I purchased at my local *Lowes *store for less than $20. That said, there are other similar products that would probably work just as well, such as the compact *Milescraft Drive 90 #1302* suggested yesterday by LJer *Kiefer*. Please don't let my choices limit your thinking.
> 
> Note that my selected *Milescraft *product is very similar to the *Vermont-American Model 17172* suggested by LJer *DIYaholic *yesterday. I had seen this *V-A *model on *Amazon.com*, but it had some accessories that I knew I wasn't going to use and the price was a little higher than the *Milescraft*. I suspect that the two would be interchangeable. But the biggest driver was that I wanted to purchase something that I could get locally so that I could return it easily if it wasn't going to work for this application.
> 
> The *Milescraft Drill 90 *is a right angle drill drive with 1:1 ratio, powder metal bevel gears and bronze bearings. For this application, I didn't feel that the plastic case was a detractor because of the intermittent usage, low rotational speeds, and low stress mounting design. The integral chuck would be ideal for gripping the extended *Tilt Shaft *without having to fabricate or purchase any other adapters. This is not a precision device, but it is more than adequate for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Designing and Packaging the Drive Train
> *
> 
> Having selected my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy*, I was ready to develop a design for the rest of the drive train, which would meet my previously specified criteria, and a way to package it.
> 
> *Design Criteria*
> 
> • Low Cost
> • Simple Configuration
> • Use Available Components
> • Accommodate Possible Shaft Misalignment
> • Reduce or Eliminate Lubrication
> • Retain Original Handwheel Attachment
> • Be Contained within the Envelope of the Saw Table and Fence Rail
> 
> The photo below is what I came up with for the *Right Angle Drive *train. Note that the *Part 15 *is already installed in the new *Tilt Shaft.*
> 
> *Correction*: It has been pointed out to me that some of the parts in the *Drive Train *have been shown out of order in the photo below: Parts *#8 & #12 *should be shown *between *the two* #11 Flange Bearings.* These parts are shown in the correct position in the parts installation photos and in the *Concept Drawing.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned before, I intended to purchase the *Tilt Shaft*, *Roll Pin*, and *Cover Plate *as *Ridgid *replacement parts. Some of the other specialized parts, such as the *Flex Coupling* components and *Shaft Collars *were purchased from *McMaster-Carr * online. The other hardware items were purchased at local hardware outlets.
> 
> As a side note, I highly recommend *McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com)* as a source for almost any hardware item you can think of. Their prices are competitive, fast order turnaround, and very reasonable shipping rates. They also have some of the best prices I have found for thin wall PVC S&D ducting fittings, including 6" sizes, for DC system fabrication.
> 
> The photo below shows the drive train components assembled in their relative positions similar to the actual installation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Coupling Nut *was an easy way to attach an extension to the existing *Tilt Shaft *projecting from the side of the saw cabinet. The extension shaft was the shank from an *8mm *hex head bolt. The *Jamb Nuts * lock the *Coupling Nut * in place to prevent loosening. The round shank of the extension shaft would be easy to secure in the *Right Angle Drive *chuck.
> 
> I incorporated the *Flex Coupling*, a low priced assembly, to minimize the effects of misalignment between the *Right Angle Drive *and the new *Tilt Shaft*. I was delighted to find that *McMaster-Carr *carried the necessary components to permit joining the *3/8"* shaft on the *Right Angle Drive *with the new *10mm Tilt Shaft*!(Would that be called a *Multi-national* connection?) The *Spider * is a Buna - N rubber component that couples the two metal hubs and provides a small measure of flexibility.
> 
> The *Shaft Collars *were incorporated to prevent any lateral movement of the new *Tilt Shaft*. Operating the *Tilt Handwheel *could tend to push the new *Tilt Shaft *inward, putting unwanted stress on the *Right **Angle Drive*. Conversely, locking the handwheel with the *Bar Knob* would tend to pull the new *Tilt Shaft *outward, disengaging the *Flex Coupling*.
> 
> The *Spyraflo Flange Bearings* are a unique design in that the bearing surfaces are made from *Acetal (Delrin), *an engineered plastic material that is widely used in industry for low load bearing, low friction, precision bearings. These bearings are also self aligning and will tolerate up to 5º misalignment - a low cost product with amazing specifications! The *Acetal *bearing material is a product with a low coefficient of friction and requires no additional lubrication.
> 
> The flat steel and nylon washers were provided to produce low friction, rotational "thrust" bearing surfaces.
> 
> *Right Angle Drive Train Installation*
> 
> As shown below, a three-sided, open top (and bottom) box was fabricated and attached to the inside of the back and the right side of the storage cabinet. So that the storage cabinet would fit tightly against the saw cabinet, a counterbore was drilled in the outside of the storage cabinet back to accommodate the thickness of the original *Cover Plate*. An oversize hole was drilled thru the cabinet back to allow access to tighten the rear *Jamb Nut*. The photo shows the *Coupling Nut *with the extended *Tilt Shaft *and *Jamb Nuts *installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below shows the *Milescraft Drill 90 Right Angle Drill Drive* installed on the extended *Tilt Shaft*. Note the oversize access hole in the side of the cabinet to allow clearance for installation and removal of the *Right Angle Drive* with the *Flex Coupling Hub* installed. The *Right Angle Drive Hub* was approximately centered in the side opening. The open top and bottom of the enclosure allowed tightening of the chuck on the shaft extension. I chose to leave the angle drive handle attachment bolt through the housing in place. I had originally considered using the bolt to attach the drive, but found it wasn't necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As shown in the following photo, a separate external enclosure was built for mounting the *Flange Bearings *and housing the rest of the drive components. The bearing supports were fabricated and drilled as a matched pair, minimizing alignment problems. Note that the *Flex Coupling *is clearly visible and that the two *Shaft Collars *sandwich the flat anti- friction washers and the *Inner Flange Bearing*. These components were installed with full engagement of the *Flex Coupling *components and adjusted to produce minimal lateral movement of the new *Tilt Shaft*, while maintaining free rotation. Note the *Right Angle Drive * is unattached on one end, constrained only by the *Flex Coupling *- this design minimizes the stress applied to the *Right Angle Drive *in operation. The *Flex Coupling *is self adjusting, accommodating any minor misalignment of components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After installation of the drive train components, the external box position was adjusted visually to produce the best alignment of the *Flex Coupling*, minimizlng misalignment between the *Right Angle Drive *and the new *Tilt Shaft*, and clamped in place. Permanent attachment of the external box to the cabinet side was then done with screws from inside the storage cabinet.
> 
> The external surfaces of the box were covered with 5mm Birch underlayment plywood to improve appearance. I didn't like the appearance of a square box that looked like it was just stuck to the side of the storage cabinet, so I added some sloped panels to make it more aesthetic- strictly foo foo-they serve no other purpose other than to make it harder for dust to stick to them. A removable access panel was incorporated into the side of the box to allow installation, removal, and adjustment of the drive train components.
> 
> The photo below shows the *Outside Flange Bearing *installation. The pairs of *Flange Bearing *mounting holes were oriented at 90º to each other. Note the screwdriver access holes for installation of the *Inner Flange Bearing *mounting screws. The *Cover Plate*, not shown in the photo, was installed over the large hole in the face of the enclosure. Installation of the *Access Cover*, *Tilt Handwheel*, and the *Bar Knob *completed the assembly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Relocated Tilt Handwheel*
> 
> So for all of you folks who have been waiting with bated breath………..here is what the *Front-Mounted Relocated Tilt Handwheel* looks like! It is totally contained within the envelope of the front overhang of the table and fence rail and the front of the storage cabinet. In addition, there is no interference with adjacent front-mounted machine components, such as the *Power Switch*, *Elevation Handwheel*, and *Tilt Indicator*. The *Relocated Tilt Handwheel* operates smoothly, with no more effort than when it was mounted on the side of the saw - but it sure is a heck of a lot handier to use!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Handwheel Twins*
> 
> Kinda looks like a poor man's version of the new *Delta Unisaw*……………..!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Bits and Pieces and $$*
> 
> So now your next questions are going to be, *"What are the parts? Where can I buy them? and What do they cost?"* So here are some answers. You may find that substituting other parts will work just as well. Keep in mind that these are the parts I used for the *Model R4511 *- *doing a similar modification to another saw may require different parts and hardware, especially for adapting to the existing tilt shaft.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *What If My R4511 Doesn't Have a Storage Cabinet or I Have a Different Saw?
> *
> The obvious answer is 1) you could add one, or 2) you could find a *Model 4511 *on Craigslist and change saws……………!!
> 
> But let me suggest a third alternative for relocating the *Tilt Handwheel *to the front of *almost any tablesaw*.
> 
> Firstly, purchase the component parts listed above or equivalents to fit your particular saw. Altho the *Flex Coupling *could be omitted, I would recommend including it because working with wood usually isn't as precise as dealing with metal components, although with care it can be done.
> 
> Secondly, design and build a suitable enclosure for the drive components you have selected. Sometimes it is best to have the hardware in hand before fabricating anything so that you can be sure that everything is going to fit together.
> 
> As a starting point design, you might consider the concept below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would add a thin plywood or hardboard cover to the top and bottom to increase the rigidity of the enclosure and preclude dust and debris. At least one of the two covers should be removable to allow access for installation and removal of the drive train components. I would also make the two sides of the enclosure adjacent to the saw cabinet at 1 to 2 inches larger top and bottom to provide a flange for attachment of the enclosure to the saw cabinet.
> 
> *WARNING!!* This is *only *a conceptual drawing-the actual dimensions of the enclosure and the placing of components will depend upon the configuration of your saw and the drive train components selected.
> 
> Well, we have finally come to the end of this chapter. But, stay tuned…........there's more to come!
> 
> This phase of the equipment upgrade was an interesting one for me- and will be right up there near the top of my favorite changes to this tablesaw. One of the things that delights me the most is that I was able to put it together with available parts and wood scraps in the shop. And the only part alteration was to cut off the head of the bolt I used for the extension shaft and cut off the excess length of the purchased Tilt Shaft. I hope others will find this information useful. If so, please let me know-and be sure to show us some pictures if you decide to take this adventure…................
> 
> Please feel free to leave comments or constructive suggestions. All questions will be answered. And if you find any errors in the material callouts or part numbers, etc., please let me know so I can make corrections.


Hi toolie,
Altho I appreciate your desire to recycle another piece of equipment, I think you are making it way harder than it needs to be, unless the ~$50 price tag does not fit within your budget. The Milescraft Drill Drive or equivalent, is a very easy modification. I don't know how large your bevel gear drive housing from the saw is, but even if you don't use its original housing, you have the problem of supporting and aligning both of the bevel gear shafts. And then the further problem of adapting the R4511 Tilt Shaft to your shaft. I couldn't tell much from the exploded parts diagram related to the end termination of the shafts. None of that is impossible, but it seems to me that you are putting yourself through a lot of work and it may be difficult to fit your mechanism into the available space. The way I described the modification, you are still able to use your existing *Tilt Handwheel *and *Bar Knob*.
To answer your first question, no, slippage of the shaft extension in the chuck was *not *a problem if tightened securely.
To answer your second question, you *missed a digit *in both of the part numbers. They should be *6408K112 *and *6408K113*.
To answer your third question, this time you have *too many *digits-the number should be
*9335A105*.


----------



## toolie

paulnwa said:


> *Relocated Tilt Handwheel -- Finally Making It Happen*
> 
> *My Turn-The-Corner-Thingy Selection*
> 
> My first choice was to use a small right angle gearbox, but I was unable to come up with any miniature ones with my Google searches. Fellow LJer *DIYaholic *pointed out some really skookum looking ones yesterday from sources that I somehow missed when I was searching. (Thanks, Randy - I tucked those references away in my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy* file for future projects.) Had I seen them, I might have gone that direction. The only right angle gearboxes I could find were too large and cost half as much as my saw!
> 
> But in spite of that, my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy* quest has come to a successful conclusion! The winner is the *Milescraft Drill 90 Right Angle Drill Drive*,* Model #1390*, which I purchased at my local *Lowes *store for less than $20. That said, there are other similar products that would probably work just as well, such as the compact *Milescraft Drive 90 #1302* suggested yesterday by LJer *Kiefer*. Please don't let my choices limit your thinking.
> 
> Note that my selected *Milescraft *product is very similar to the *Vermont-American Model 17172* suggested by LJer *DIYaholic *yesterday. I had seen this *V-A *model on *Amazon.com*, but it had some accessories that I knew I wasn't going to use and the price was a little higher than the *Milescraft*. I suspect that the two would be interchangeable. But the biggest driver was that I wanted to purchase something that I could get locally so that I could return it easily if it wasn't going to work for this application.
> 
> The *Milescraft Drill 90 *is a right angle drill drive with 1:1 ratio, powder metal bevel gears and bronze bearings. For this application, I didn't feel that the plastic case was a detractor because of the intermittent usage, low rotational speeds, and low stress mounting design. The integral chuck would be ideal for gripping the extended *Tilt Shaft *without having to fabricate or purchase any other adapters. This is not a precision device, but it is more than adequate for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Designing and Packaging the Drive Train
> *
> 
> Having selected my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy*, I was ready to develop a design for the rest of the drive train, which would meet my previously specified criteria, and a way to package it.
> 
> *Design Criteria*
> 
> • Low Cost
> • Simple Configuration
> • Use Available Components
> • Accommodate Possible Shaft Misalignment
> • Reduce or Eliminate Lubrication
> • Retain Original Handwheel Attachment
> • Be Contained within the Envelope of the Saw Table and Fence Rail
> 
> The photo below is what I came up with for the *Right Angle Drive *train. Note that the *Part 15 *is already installed in the new *Tilt Shaft.*
> 
> *Correction*: It has been pointed out to me that some of the parts in the *Drive Train *have been shown out of order in the photo below: Parts *#8 & #12 *should be shown *between *the two* #11 Flange Bearings.* These parts are shown in the correct position in the parts installation photos and in the *Concept Drawing.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned before, I intended to purchase the *Tilt Shaft*, *Roll Pin*, and *Cover Plate *as *Ridgid *replacement parts. Some of the other specialized parts, such as the *Flex Coupling* components and *Shaft Collars *were purchased from *McMaster-Carr * online. The other hardware items were purchased at local hardware outlets.
> 
> As a side note, I highly recommend *McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com)* as a source for almost any hardware item you can think of. Their prices are competitive, fast order turnaround, and very reasonable shipping rates. They also have some of the best prices I have found for thin wall PVC S&D ducting fittings, including 6" sizes, for DC system fabrication.
> 
> The photo below shows the drive train components assembled in their relative positions similar to the actual installation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Coupling Nut *was an easy way to attach an extension to the existing *Tilt Shaft *projecting from the side of the saw cabinet. The extension shaft was the shank from an *8mm *hex head bolt. The *Jamb Nuts * lock the *Coupling Nut * in place to prevent loosening. The round shank of the extension shaft would be easy to secure in the *Right Angle Drive *chuck.
> 
> I incorporated the *Flex Coupling*, a low priced assembly, to minimize the effects of misalignment between the *Right Angle Drive *and the new *Tilt Shaft*. I was delighted to find that *McMaster-Carr *carried the necessary components to permit joining the *3/8"* shaft on the *Right Angle Drive *with the new *10mm Tilt Shaft*!(Would that be called a *Multi-national* connection?) The *Spider * is a Buna - N rubber component that couples the two metal hubs and provides a small measure of flexibility.
> 
> The *Shaft Collars *were incorporated to prevent any lateral movement of the new *Tilt Shaft*. Operating the *Tilt Handwheel *could tend to push the new *Tilt Shaft *inward, putting unwanted stress on the *Right **Angle Drive*. Conversely, locking the handwheel with the *Bar Knob* would tend to pull the new *Tilt Shaft *outward, disengaging the *Flex Coupling*.
> 
> The *Spyraflo Flange Bearings* are a unique design in that the bearing surfaces are made from *Acetal (Delrin), *an engineered plastic material that is widely used in industry for low load bearing, low friction, precision bearings. These bearings are also self aligning and will tolerate up to 5º misalignment - a low cost product with amazing specifications! The *Acetal *bearing material is a product with a low coefficient of friction and requires no additional lubrication.
> 
> The flat steel and nylon washers were provided to produce low friction, rotational "thrust" bearing surfaces.
> 
> *Right Angle Drive Train Installation*
> 
> As shown below, a three-sided, open top (and bottom) box was fabricated and attached to the inside of the back and the right side of the storage cabinet. So that the storage cabinet would fit tightly against the saw cabinet, a counterbore was drilled in the outside of the storage cabinet back to accommodate the thickness of the original *Cover Plate*. An oversize hole was drilled thru the cabinet back to allow access to tighten the rear *Jamb Nut*. The photo shows the *Coupling Nut *with the extended *Tilt Shaft *and *Jamb Nuts *installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below shows the *Milescraft Drill 90 Right Angle Drill Drive* installed on the extended *Tilt Shaft*. Note the oversize access hole in the side of the cabinet to allow clearance for installation and removal of the *Right Angle Drive* with the *Flex Coupling Hub* installed. The *Right Angle Drive Hub* was approximately centered in the side opening. The open top and bottom of the enclosure allowed tightening of the chuck on the shaft extension. I chose to leave the angle drive handle attachment bolt through the housing in place. I had originally considered using the bolt to attach the drive, but found it wasn't necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As shown in the following photo, a separate external enclosure was built for mounting the *Flange Bearings *and housing the rest of the drive components. The bearing supports were fabricated and drilled as a matched pair, minimizing alignment problems. Note that the *Flex Coupling *is clearly visible and that the two *Shaft Collars *sandwich the flat anti- friction washers and the *Inner Flange Bearing*. These components were installed with full engagement of the *Flex Coupling *components and adjusted to produce minimal lateral movement of the new *Tilt Shaft*, while maintaining free rotation. Note the *Right Angle Drive * is unattached on one end, constrained only by the *Flex Coupling *- this design minimizes the stress applied to the *Right Angle Drive *in operation. The *Flex Coupling *is self adjusting, accommodating any minor misalignment of components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After installation of the drive train components, the external box position was adjusted visually to produce the best alignment of the *Flex Coupling*, minimizlng misalignment between the *Right Angle Drive *and the new *Tilt Shaft*, and clamped in place. Permanent attachment of the external box to the cabinet side was then done with screws from inside the storage cabinet.
> 
> The external surfaces of the box were covered with 5mm Birch underlayment plywood to improve appearance. I didn't like the appearance of a square box that looked like it was just stuck to the side of the storage cabinet, so I added some sloped panels to make it more aesthetic- strictly foo foo-they serve no other purpose other than to make it harder for dust to stick to them. A removable access panel was incorporated into the side of the box to allow installation, removal, and adjustment of the drive train components.
> 
> The photo below shows the *Outside Flange Bearing *installation. The pairs of *Flange Bearing *mounting holes were oriented at 90º to each other. Note the screwdriver access holes for installation of the *Inner Flange Bearing *mounting screws. The *Cover Plate*, not shown in the photo, was installed over the large hole in the face of the enclosure. Installation of the *Access Cover*, *Tilt Handwheel*, and the *Bar Knob *completed the assembly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Relocated Tilt Handwheel*
> 
> So for all of you folks who have been waiting with bated breath………..here is what the *Front-Mounted Relocated Tilt Handwheel* looks like! It is totally contained within the envelope of the front overhang of the table and fence rail and the front of the storage cabinet. In addition, there is no interference with adjacent front-mounted machine components, such as the *Power Switch*, *Elevation Handwheel*, and *Tilt Indicator*. The *Relocated Tilt Handwheel* operates smoothly, with no more effort than when it was mounted on the side of the saw - but it sure is a heck of a lot handier to use!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Handwheel Twins*
> 
> Kinda looks like a poor man's version of the new *Delta Unisaw*……………..!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Bits and Pieces and $$*
> 
> So now your next questions are going to be, *"What are the parts? Where can I buy them? and What do they cost?"* So here are some answers. You may find that substituting other parts will work just as well. Keep in mind that these are the parts I used for the *Model R4511 *- *doing a similar modification to another saw may require different parts and hardware, especially for adapting to the existing tilt shaft.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *What If My R4511 Doesn't Have a Storage Cabinet or I Have a Different Saw?
> *
> The obvious answer is 1) you could add one, or 2) you could find a *Model 4511 *on Craigslist and change saws……………!!
> 
> But let me suggest a third alternative for relocating the *Tilt Handwheel *to the front of *almost any tablesaw*.
> 
> Firstly, purchase the component parts listed above or equivalents to fit your particular saw. Altho the *Flex Coupling *could be omitted, I would recommend including it because working with wood usually isn't as precise as dealing with metal components, although with care it can be done.
> 
> Secondly, design and build a suitable enclosure for the drive components you have selected. Sometimes it is best to have the hardware in hand before fabricating anything so that you can be sure that everything is going to fit together.
> 
> As a starting point design, you might consider the concept below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would add a thin plywood or hardboard cover to the top and bottom to increase the rigidity of the enclosure and preclude dust and debris. At least one of the two covers should be removable to allow access for installation and removal of the drive train components. I would also make the two sides of the enclosure adjacent to the saw cabinet at 1 to 2 inches larger top and bottom to provide a flange for attachment of the enclosure to the saw cabinet.
> 
> *WARNING!!* This is *only *a conceptual drawing-the actual dimensions of the enclosure and the placing of components will depend upon the configuration of your saw and the drive train components selected.
> 
> Well, we have finally come to the end of this chapter. But, stay tuned…........there's more to come!
> 
> This phase of the equipment upgrade was an interesting one for me- and will be right up there near the top of my favorite changes to this tablesaw. One of the things that delights me the most is that I was able to put it together with available parts and wood scraps in the shop. And the only part alteration was to cut off the head of the bolt I used for the extension shaft and cut off the excess length of the purchased Tilt Shaft. I hope others will find this information useful. If so, please let me know-and be sure to show us some pictures if you decide to take this adventure…................
> 
> Please feel free to leave comments or constructive suggestions. All questions will be answered. And if you find any errors in the material callouts or part numbers, etc., please let me know so I can make corrections.


hello paul,
fair enough comment on repurposing the column mechanism of the RAS. the size and weight are also a problem. but i am having a problem finding the MMC parts shown in the parts list.

when i searched the MMC site for 6408k113, here is the page i got:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/117/1163/=fq0kvn

if there's a part number 6408k113 on that page, perhaps you can help me find it, because i cannot seem to locate it. also, the prices of the parts that i was able to locate, with the different part numbers i noted, were somewhat higher than those refelected in the parts list. so am i finding the right parts?

i'd really like to add your tilt wheel mod. to my saws, and the "spider coupling" you cobbled together using parts 5,6 and 7 from the parts list are key for it to work. i'd just like to make sure i buy the correct parts. thanks again for the great idea and your assistance.


----------



## paulnwa

paulnwa said:


> *Relocated Tilt Handwheel -- Finally Making It Happen*
> 
> *My Turn-The-Corner-Thingy Selection*
> 
> My first choice was to use a small right angle gearbox, but I was unable to come up with any miniature ones with my Google searches. Fellow LJer *DIYaholic *pointed out some really skookum looking ones yesterday from sources that I somehow missed when I was searching. (Thanks, Randy - I tucked those references away in my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy* file for future projects.) Had I seen them, I might have gone that direction. The only right angle gearboxes I could find were too large and cost half as much as my saw!
> 
> But in spite of that, my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy* quest has come to a successful conclusion! The winner is the *Milescraft Drill 90 Right Angle Drill Drive*,* Model #1390*, which I purchased at my local *Lowes *store for less than $20. That said, there are other similar products that would probably work just as well, such as the compact *Milescraft Drive 90 #1302* suggested yesterday by LJer *Kiefer*. Please don't let my choices limit your thinking.
> 
> Note that my selected *Milescraft *product is very similar to the *Vermont-American Model 17172* suggested by LJer *DIYaholic *yesterday. I had seen this *V-A *model on *Amazon.com*, but it had some accessories that I knew I wasn't going to use and the price was a little higher than the *Milescraft*. I suspect that the two would be interchangeable. But the biggest driver was that I wanted to purchase something that I could get locally so that I could return it easily if it wasn't going to work for this application.
> 
> The *Milescraft Drill 90 *is a right angle drill drive with 1:1 ratio, powder metal bevel gears and bronze bearings. For this application, I didn't feel that the plastic case was a detractor because of the intermittent usage, low rotational speeds, and low stress mounting design. The integral chuck would be ideal for gripping the extended *Tilt Shaft *without having to fabricate or purchase any other adapters. This is not a precision device, but it is more than adequate for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Designing and Packaging the Drive Train
> *
> 
> Having selected my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy*, I was ready to develop a design for the rest of the drive train, which would meet my previously specified criteria, and a way to package it.
> 
> *Design Criteria*
> 
> • Low Cost
> • Simple Configuration
> • Use Available Components
> • Accommodate Possible Shaft Misalignment
> • Reduce or Eliminate Lubrication
> • Retain Original Handwheel Attachment
> • Be Contained within the Envelope of the Saw Table and Fence Rail
> 
> The photo below is what I came up with for the *Right Angle Drive *train. Note that the *Part 15 *is already installed in the new *Tilt Shaft.*
> 
> *Correction*: It has been pointed out to me that some of the parts in the *Drive Train *have been shown out of order in the photo below: Parts *#8 & #12 *should be shown *between *the two* #11 Flange Bearings.* These parts are shown in the correct position in the parts installation photos and in the *Concept Drawing.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned before, I intended to purchase the *Tilt Shaft*, *Roll Pin*, and *Cover Plate *as *Ridgid *replacement parts. Some of the other specialized parts, such as the *Flex Coupling* components and *Shaft Collars *were purchased from *McMaster-Carr * online. The other hardware items were purchased at local hardware outlets.
> 
> As a side note, I highly recommend *McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com)* as a source for almost any hardware item you can think of. Their prices are competitive, fast order turnaround, and very reasonable shipping rates. They also have some of the best prices I have found for thin wall PVC S&D ducting fittings, including 6" sizes, for DC system fabrication.
> 
> The photo below shows the drive train components assembled in their relative positions similar to the actual installation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Coupling Nut *was an easy way to attach an extension to the existing *Tilt Shaft *projecting from the side of the saw cabinet. The extension shaft was the shank from an *8mm *hex head bolt. The *Jamb Nuts * lock the *Coupling Nut * in place to prevent loosening. The round shank of the extension shaft would be easy to secure in the *Right Angle Drive *chuck.
> 
> I incorporated the *Flex Coupling*, a low priced assembly, to minimize the effects of misalignment between the *Right Angle Drive *and the new *Tilt Shaft*. I was delighted to find that *McMaster-Carr *carried the necessary components to permit joining the *3/8"* shaft on the *Right Angle Drive *with the new *10mm Tilt Shaft*!(Would that be called a *Multi-national* connection?) The *Spider * is a Buna - N rubber component that couples the two metal hubs and provides a small measure of flexibility.
> 
> The *Shaft Collars *were incorporated to prevent any lateral movement of the new *Tilt Shaft*. Operating the *Tilt Handwheel *could tend to push the new *Tilt Shaft *inward, putting unwanted stress on the *Right **Angle Drive*. Conversely, locking the handwheel with the *Bar Knob* would tend to pull the new *Tilt Shaft *outward, disengaging the *Flex Coupling*.
> 
> The *Spyraflo Flange Bearings* are a unique design in that the bearing surfaces are made from *Acetal (Delrin), *an engineered plastic material that is widely used in industry for low load bearing, low friction, precision bearings. These bearings are also self aligning and will tolerate up to 5º misalignment - a low cost product with amazing specifications! The *Acetal *bearing material is a product with a low coefficient of friction and requires no additional lubrication.
> 
> The flat steel and nylon washers were provided to produce low friction, rotational "thrust" bearing surfaces.
> 
> *Right Angle Drive Train Installation*
> 
> As shown below, a three-sided, open top (and bottom) box was fabricated and attached to the inside of the back and the right side of the storage cabinet. So that the storage cabinet would fit tightly against the saw cabinet, a counterbore was drilled in the outside of the storage cabinet back to accommodate the thickness of the original *Cover Plate*. An oversize hole was drilled thru the cabinet back to allow access to tighten the rear *Jamb Nut*. The photo shows the *Coupling Nut *with the extended *Tilt Shaft *and *Jamb Nuts *installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below shows the *Milescraft Drill 90 Right Angle Drill Drive* installed on the extended *Tilt Shaft*. Note the oversize access hole in the side of the cabinet to allow clearance for installation and removal of the *Right Angle Drive* with the *Flex Coupling Hub* installed. The *Right Angle Drive Hub* was approximately centered in the side opening. The open top and bottom of the enclosure allowed tightening of the chuck on the shaft extension. I chose to leave the angle drive handle attachment bolt through the housing in place. I had originally considered using the bolt to attach the drive, but found it wasn't necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As shown in the following photo, a separate external enclosure was built for mounting the *Flange Bearings *and housing the rest of the drive components. The bearing supports were fabricated and drilled as a matched pair, minimizing alignment problems. Note that the *Flex Coupling *is clearly visible and that the two *Shaft Collars *sandwich the flat anti- friction washers and the *Inner Flange Bearing*. These components were installed with full engagement of the *Flex Coupling *components and adjusted to produce minimal lateral movement of the new *Tilt Shaft*, while maintaining free rotation. Note the *Right Angle Drive * is unattached on one end, constrained only by the *Flex Coupling *- this design minimizes the stress applied to the *Right Angle Drive *in operation. The *Flex Coupling *is self adjusting, accommodating any minor misalignment of components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After installation of the drive train components, the external box position was adjusted visually to produce the best alignment of the *Flex Coupling*, minimizlng misalignment between the *Right Angle Drive *and the new *Tilt Shaft*, and clamped in place. Permanent attachment of the external box to the cabinet side was then done with screws from inside the storage cabinet.
> 
> The external surfaces of the box were covered with 5mm Birch underlayment plywood to improve appearance. I didn't like the appearance of a square box that looked like it was just stuck to the side of the storage cabinet, so I added some sloped panels to make it more aesthetic- strictly foo foo-they serve no other purpose other than to make it harder for dust to stick to them. A removable access panel was incorporated into the side of the box to allow installation, removal, and adjustment of the drive train components.
> 
> The photo below shows the *Outside Flange Bearing *installation. The pairs of *Flange Bearing *mounting holes were oriented at 90º to each other. Note the screwdriver access holes for installation of the *Inner Flange Bearing *mounting screws. The *Cover Plate*, not shown in the photo, was installed over the large hole in the face of the enclosure. Installation of the *Access Cover*, *Tilt Handwheel*, and the *Bar Knob *completed the assembly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Relocated Tilt Handwheel*
> 
> So for all of you folks who have been waiting with bated breath………..here is what the *Front-Mounted Relocated Tilt Handwheel* looks like! It is totally contained within the envelope of the front overhang of the table and fence rail and the front of the storage cabinet. In addition, there is no interference with adjacent front-mounted machine components, such as the *Power Switch*, *Elevation Handwheel*, and *Tilt Indicator*. The *Relocated Tilt Handwheel* operates smoothly, with no more effort than when it was mounted on the side of the saw - but it sure is a heck of a lot handier to use!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Handwheel Twins*
> 
> Kinda looks like a poor man's version of the new *Delta Unisaw*……………..!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Bits and Pieces and $$*
> 
> So now your next questions are going to be, *"What are the parts? Where can I buy them? and What do they cost?"* So here are some answers. You may find that substituting other parts will work just as well. Keep in mind that these are the parts I used for the *Model R4511 *- *doing a similar modification to another saw may require different parts and hardware, especially for adapting to the existing tilt shaft.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *What If My R4511 Doesn't Have a Storage Cabinet or I Have a Different Saw?
> *
> The obvious answer is 1) you could add one, or 2) you could find a *Model 4511 *on Craigslist and change saws……………!!
> 
> But let me suggest a third alternative for relocating the *Tilt Handwheel *to the front of *almost any tablesaw*.
> 
> Firstly, purchase the component parts listed above or equivalents to fit your particular saw. Altho the *Flex Coupling *could be omitted, I would recommend including it because working with wood usually isn't as precise as dealing with metal components, although with care it can be done.
> 
> Secondly, design and build a suitable enclosure for the drive components you have selected. Sometimes it is best to have the hardware in hand before fabricating anything so that you can be sure that everything is going to fit together.
> 
> As a starting point design, you might consider the concept below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would add a thin plywood or hardboard cover to the top and bottom to increase the rigidity of the enclosure and preclude dust and debris. At least one of the two covers should be removable to allow access for installation and removal of the drive train components. I would also make the two sides of the enclosure adjacent to the saw cabinet at 1 to 2 inches larger top and bottom to provide a flange for attachment of the enclosure to the saw cabinet.
> 
> *WARNING!!* This is *only *a conceptual drawing-the actual dimensions of the enclosure and the placing of components will depend upon the configuration of your saw and the drive train components selected.
> 
> Well, we have finally come to the end of this chapter. But, stay tuned…........there's more to come!
> 
> This phase of the equipment upgrade was an interesting one for me- and will be right up there near the top of my favorite changes to this tablesaw. One of the things that delights me the most is that I was able to put it together with available parts and wood scraps in the shop. And the only part alteration was to cut off the head of the bolt I used for the extension shaft and cut off the excess length of the purchased Tilt Shaft. I hope others will find this information useful. If so, please let me know-and be sure to show us some pictures if you decide to take this adventure…................
> 
> Please feel free to leave comments or constructive suggestions. All questions will be answered. And if you find any errors in the material callouts or part numbers, etc., please let me know so I can make corrections.


Hi toolie,

After thinking about it some more, I think I finally understand what you are trying to do! If I understand you correctly, you essentially have a right angle, bevel gear drive in some sort of housing(?) which has a shaft and a knob on one end and a straight shaft on the other.

You are wanting to adapt the straight shaft to the Tilt Shaft coming out the side of your saw. If that is the case, the problem becomes choosing the right components for the adapter, which in this case is a flex coupling.

If your saws *are *R4511's, I would use an *8mm *coupling nut and a cut off a replacement *Ridgid Tilt **Shaft *to engage a *10mm *bore flex coupling hub . (*Note *- The *Ridgid Tilt Shaft *is *10mm *diameter with an *8mm *threaded end. The flex coupling hubs *do not *come in an *8mm *bore)Then choose the other flex coupling hub bore to match the shaft diameter of your right angle drive, which will probably be an English diameter (not metric). Choose both hubs to be the same *outside diameter *and then choose a rubber spider to match that outside diameter.

If your saws are *not *R4511's, then you need to choose a flex coupling hub to match the *Tilt Shaft *of your saw and a second one to match the output shaft of your right angle drive with a rubber spider to match. Because I don't know what your saw Tilt Shaft end looks like, you will have to decide how to adapt it to the flex coupling hub.

Then you need to figure out how to mount your right angle drive housing to your saw cabinet. It isn't at all clear to me how you are going to do that after looking at the exploded parts view.

You are right about the McMaster Carr part numbers and prices. Apparently they have changed the numbers since I ordered my parts. However, the same flex coupling hub bore diameters (*3/8" & 10mm*) and outside diameters (*1 5/64"*) are listed. The Buna-N rubber spider is the same OD. The prices are only a little higher, tho.

*Just make sure the flex coupling bore diameters match the shafts you are going to install them on, which might be different for each hub, as mine were, and that the flex coupling hub outside diameters match and choose a rubber spider with the same OD*.

When you mount your right angle drive mechanism, make sure that the flex coupling is *fully engaged *and the two shafts align with each other as close as you can get them without having to go to something exotic like a dial indicator. Your mounting arrangement will have to ensure that the flex coupling *does not *disengage when you are operating the knob to tilt the saw blade. Also your bevel gears must stay engaged.

Please keep us posted on your progress and please post some pics of your mod.


----------



## toolie

paulnwa said:


> *Relocated Tilt Handwheel -- Finally Making It Happen*
> 
> *My Turn-The-Corner-Thingy Selection*
> 
> My first choice was to use a small right angle gearbox, but I was unable to come up with any miniature ones with my Google searches. Fellow LJer *DIYaholic *pointed out some really skookum looking ones yesterday from sources that I somehow missed when I was searching. (Thanks, Randy - I tucked those references away in my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy* file for future projects.) Had I seen them, I might have gone that direction. The only right angle gearboxes I could find were too large and cost half as much as my saw!
> 
> But in spite of that, my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy* quest has come to a successful conclusion! The winner is the *Milescraft Drill 90 Right Angle Drill Drive*,* Model #1390*, which I purchased at my local *Lowes *store for less than $20. That said, there are other similar products that would probably work just as well, such as the compact *Milescraft Drive 90 #1302* suggested yesterday by LJer *Kiefer*. Please don't let my choices limit your thinking.
> 
> Note that my selected *Milescraft *product is very similar to the *Vermont-American Model 17172* suggested by LJer *DIYaholic *yesterday. I had seen this *V-A *model on *Amazon.com*, but it had some accessories that I knew I wasn't going to use and the price was a little higher than the *Milescraft*. I suspect that the two would be interchangeable. But the biggest driver was that I wanted to purchase something that I could get locally so that I could return it easily if it wasn't going to work for this application.
> 
> The *Milescraft Drill 90 *is a right angle drill drive with 1:1 ratio, powder metal bevel gears and bronze bearings. For this application, I didn't feel that the plastic case was a detractor because of the intermittent usage, low rotational speeds, and low stress mounting design. The integral chuck would be ideal for gripping the extended *Tilt Shaft *without having to fabricate or purchase any other adapters. This is not a precision device, but it is more than adequate for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Designing and Packaging the Drive Train
> *
> 
> Having selected my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy*, I was ready to develop a design for the rest of the drive train, which would meet my previously specified criteria, and a way to package it.
> 
> *Design Criteria*
> 
> • Low Cost
> • Simple Configuration
> • Use Available Components
> • Accommodate Possible Shaft Misalignment
> • Reduce or Eliminate Lubrication
> • Retain Original Handwheel Attachment
> • Be Contained within the Envelope of the Saw Table and Fence Rail
> 
> The photo below is what I came up with for the *Right Angle Drive *train. Note that the *Part 15 *is already installed in the new *Tilt Shaft.*
> 
> *Correction*: It has been pointed out to me that some of the parts in the *Drive Train *have been shown out of order in the photo below: Parts *#8 & #12 *should be shown *between *the two* #11 Flange Bearings.* These parts are shown in the correct position in the parts installation photos and in the *Concept Drawing.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned before, I intended to purchase the *Tilt Shaft*, *Roll Pin*, and *Cover Plate *as *Ridgid *replacement parts. Some of the other specialized parts, such as the *Flex Coupling* components and *Shaft Collars *were purchased from *McMaster-Carr * online. The other hardware items were purchased at local hardware outlets.
> 
> As a side note, I highly recommend *McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com)* as a source for almost any hardware item you can think of. Their prices are competitive, fast order turnaround, and very reasonable shipping rates. They also have some of the best prices I have found for thin wall PVC S&D ducting fittings, including 6" sizes, for DC system fabrication.
> 
> The photo below shows the drive train components assembled in their relative positions similar to the actual installation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Coupling Nut *was an easy way to attach an extension to the existing *Tilt Shaft *projecting from the side of the saw cabinet. The extension shaft was the shank from an *8mm *hex head bolt. The *Jamb Nuts * lock the *Coupling Nut * in place to prevent loosening. The round shank of the extension shaft would be easy to secure in the *Right Angle Drive *chuck.
> 
> I incorporated the *Flex Coupling*, a low priced assembly, to minimize the effects of misalignment between the *Right Angle Drive *and the new *Tilt Shaft*. I was delighted to find that *McMaster-Carr *carried the necessary components to permit joining the *3/8"* shaft on the *Right Angle Drive *with the new *10mm Tilt Shaft*!(Would that be called a *Multi-national* connection?) The *Spider * is a Buna - N rubber component that couples the two metal hubs and provides a small measure of flexibility.
> 
> The *Shaft Collars *were incorporated to prevent any lateral movement of the new *Tilt Shaft*. Operating the *Tilt Handwheel *could tend to push the new *Tilt Shaft *inward, putting unwanted stress on the *Right **Angle Drive*. Conversely, locking the handwheel with the *Bar Knob* would tend to pull the new *Tilt Shaft *outward, disengaging the *Flex Coupling*.
> 
> The *Spyraflo Flange Bearings* are a unique design in that the bearing surfaces are made from *Acetal (Delrin), *an engineered plastic material that is widely used in industry for low load bearing, low friction, precision bearings. These bearings are also self aligning and will tolerate up to 5º misalignment - a low cost product with amazing specifications! The *Acetal *bearing material is a product with a low coefficient of friction and requires no additional lubrication.
> 
> The flat steel and nylon washers were provided to produce low friction, rotational "thrust" bearing surfaces.
> 
> *Right Angle Drive Train Installation*
> 
> As shown below, a three-sided, open top (and bottom) box was fabricated and attached to the inside of the back and the right side of the storage cabinet. So that the storage cabinet would fit tightly against the saw cabinet, a counterbore was drilled in the outside of the storage cabinet back to accommodate the thickness of the original *Cover Plate*. An oversize hole was drilled thru the cabinet back to allow access to tighten the rear *Jamb Nut*. The photo shows the *Coupling Nut *with the extended *Tilt Shaft *and *Jamb Nuts *installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below shows the *Milescraft Drill 90 Right Angle Drill Drive* installed on the extended *Tilt Shaft*. Note the oversize access hole in the side of the cabinet to allow clearance for installation and removal of the *Right Angle Drive* with the *Flex Coupling Hub* installed. The *Right Angle Drive Hub* was approximately centered in the side opening. The open top and bottom of the enclosure allowed tightening of the chuck on the shaft extension. I chose to leave the angle drive handle attachment bolt through the housing in place. I had originally considered using the bolt to attach the drive, but found it wasn't necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As shown in the following photo, a separate external enclosure was built for mounting the *Flange Bearings *and housing the rest of the drive components. The bearing supports were fabricated and drilled as a matched pair, minimizing alignment problems. Note that the *Flex Coupling *is clearly visible and that the two *Shaft Collars *sandwich the flat anti- friction washers and the *Inner Flange Bearing*. These components were installed with full engagement of the *Flex Coupling *components and adjusted to produce minimal lateral movement of the new *Tilt Shaft*, while maintaining free rotation. Note the *Right Angle Drive * is unattached on one end, constrained only by the *Flex Coupling *- this design minimizes the stress applied to the *Right Angle Drive *in operation. The *Flex Coupling *is self adjusting, accommodating any minor misalignment of components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After installation of the drive train components, the external box position was adjusted visually to produce the best alignment of the *Flex Coupling*, minimizlng misalignment between the *Right Angle Drive *and the new *Tilt Shaft*, and clamped in place. Permanent attachment of the external box to the cabinet side was then done with screws from inside the storage cabinet.
> 
> The external surfaces of the box were covered with 5mm Birch underlayment plywood to improve appearance. I didn't like the appearance of a square box that looked like it was just stuck to the side of the storage cabinet, so I added some sloped panels to make it more aesthetic- strictly foo foo-they serve no other purpose other than to make it harder for dust to stick to them. A removable access panel was incorporated into the side of the box to allow installation, removal, and adjustment of the drive train components.
> 
> The photo below shows the *Outside Flange Bearing *installation. The pairs of *Flange Bearing *mounting holes were oriented at 90º to each other. Note the screwdriver access holes for installation of the *Inner Flange Bearing *mounting screws. The *Cover Plate*, not shown in the photo, was installed over the large hole in the face of the enclosure. Installation of the *Access Cover*, *Tilt Handwheel*, and the *Bar Knob *completed the assembly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Relocated Tilt Handwheel*
> 
> So for all of you folks who have been waiting with bated breath………..here is what the *Front-Mounted Relocated Tilt Handwheel* looks like! It is totally contained within the envelope of the front overhang of the table and fence rail and the front of the storage cabinet. In addition, there is no interference with adjacent front-mounted machine components, such as the *Power Switch*, *Elevation Handwheel*, and *Tilt Indicator*. The *Relocated Tilt Handwheel* operates smoothly, with no more effort than when it was mounted on the side of the saw - but it sure is a heck of a lot handier to use!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Handwheel Twins*
> 
> Kinda looks like a poor man's version of the new *Delta Unisaw*……………..!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Bits and Pieces and $$*
> 
> So now your next questions are going to be, *"What are the parts? Where can I buy them? and What do they cost?"* So here are some answers. You may find that substituting other parts will work just as well. Keep in mind that these are the parts I used for the *Model R4511 *- *doing a similar modification to another saw may require different parts and hardware, especially for adapting to the existing tilt shaft.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *What If My R4511 Doesn't Have a Storage Cabinet or I Have a Different Saw?
> *
> The obvious answer is 1) you could add one, or 2) you could find a *Model 4511 *on Craigslist and change saws……………!!
> 
> But let me suggest a third alternative for relocating the *Tilt Handwheel *to the front of *almost any tablesaw*.
> 
> Firstly, purchase the component parts listed above or equivalents to fit your particular saw. Altho the *Flex Coupling *could be omitted, I would recommend including it because working with wood usually isn't as precise as dealing with metal components, although with care it can be done.
> 
> Secondly, design and build a suitable enclosure for the drive components you have selected. Sometimes it is best to have the hardware in hand before fabricating anything so that you can be sure that everything is going to fit together.
> 
> As a starting point design, you might consider the concept below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would add a thin plywood or hardboard cover to the top and bottom to increase the rigidity of the enclosure and preclude dust and debris. At least one of the two covers should be removable to allow access for installation and removal of the drive train components. I would also make the two sides of the enclosure adjacent to the saw cabinet at 1 to 2 inches larger top and bottom to provide a flange for attachment of the enclosure to the saw cabinet.
> 
> *WARNING!!* This is *only *a conceptual drawing-the actual dimensions of the enclosure and the placing of components will depend upon the configuration of your saw and the drive train components selected.
> 
> Well, we have finally come to the end of this chapter. But, stay tuned…........there's more to come!
> 
> This phase of the equipment upgrade was an interesting one for me- and will be right up there near the top of my favorite changes to this tablesaw. One of the things that delights me the most is that I was able to put it together with available parts and wood scraps in the shop. And the only part alteration was to cut off the head of the bolt I used for the extension shaft and cut off the excess length of the purchased Tilt Shaft. I hope others will find this information useful. If so, please let me know-and be sure to show us some pictures if you decide to take this adventure…................
> 
> Please feel free to leave comments or constructive suggestions. All questions will be answered. And if you find any errors in the material callouts or part numbers, etc., please let me know so I can make corrections.


thanks for confirming that the MMC part numbers and prices of the parts you used and listed in the parts list have changed. also, what method did you use in measuring the diameter of the 4511's tilt rod and the shaft diameter of the milescraft right angle drive?


----------



## paulnwa

paulnwa said:


> *Relocated Tilt Handwheel -- Finally Making It Happen*
> 
> *My Turn-The-Corner-Thingy Selection*
> 
> My first choice was to use a small right angle gearbox, but I was unable to come up with any miniature ones with my Google searches. Fellow LJer *DIYaholic *pointed out some really skookum looking ones yesterday from sources that I somehow missed when I was searching. (Thanks, Randy - I tucked those references away in my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy* file for future projects.) Had I seen them, I might have gone that direction. The only right angle gearboxes I could find were too large and cost half as much as my saw!
> 
> But in spite of that, my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy* quest has come to a successful conclusion! The winner is the *Milescraft Drill 90 Right Angle Drill Drive*,* Model #1390*, which I purchased at my local *Lowes *store for less than $20. That said, there are other similar products that would probably work just as well, such as the compact *Milescraft Drive 90 #1302* suggested yesterday by LJer *Kiefer*. Please don't let my choices limit your thinking.
> 
> Note that my selected *Milescraft *product is very similar to the *Vermont-American Model 17172* suggested by LJer *DIYaholic *yesterday. I had seen this *V-A *model on *Amazon.com*, but it had some accessories that I knew I wasn't going to use and the price was a little higher than the *Milescraft*. I suspect that the two would be interchangeable. But the biggest driver was that I wanted to purchase something that I could get locally so that I could return it easily if it wasn't going to work for this application.
> 
> The *Milescraft Drill 90 *is a right angle drill drive with 1:1 ratio, powder metal bevel gears and bronze bearings. For this application, I didn't feel that the plastic case was a detractor because of the intermittent usage, low rotational speeds, and low stress mounting design. The integral chuck would be ideal for gripping the extended *Tilt Shaft *without having to fabricate or purchase any other adapters. This is not a precision device, but it is more than adequate for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Designing and Packaging the Drive Train
> *
> 
> Having selected my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy*, I was ready to develop a design for the rest of the drive train, which would meet my previously specified criteria, and a way to package it.
> 
> *Design Criteria*
> 
> • Low Cost
> • Simple Configuration
> • Use Available Components
> • Accommodate Possible Shaft Misalignment
> • Reduce or Eliminate Lubrication
> • Retain Original Handwheel Attachment
> • Be Contained within the Envelope of the Saw Table and Fence Rail
> 
> The photo below is what I came up with for the *Right Angle Drive *train. Note that the *Part 15 *is already installed in the new *Tilt Shaft.*
> 
> *Correction*: It has been pointed out to me that some of the parts in the *Drive Train *have been shown out of order in the photo below: Parts *#8 & #12 *should be shown *between *the two* #11 Flange Bearings.* These parts are shown in the correct position in the parts installation photos and in the *Concept Drawing.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned before, I intended to purchase the *Tilt Shaft*, *Roll Pin*, and *Cover Plate *as *Ridgid *replacement parts. Some of the other specialized parts, such as the *Flex Coupling* components and *Shaft Collars *were purchased from *McMaster-Carr * online. The other hardware items were purchased at local hardware outlets.
> 
> As a side note, I highly recommend *McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com)* as a source for almost any hardware item you can think of. Their prices are competitive, fast order turnaround, and very reasonable shipping rates. They also have some of the best prices I have found for thin wall PVC S&D ducting fittings, including 6" sizes, for DC system fabrication.
> 
> The photo below shows the drive train components assembled in their relative positions similar to the actual installation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Coupling Nut *was an easy way to attach an extension to the existing *Tilt Shaft *projecting from the side of the saw cabinet. The extension shaft was the shank from an *8mm *hex head bolt. The *Jamb Nuts * lock the *Coupling Nut * in place to prevent loosening. The round shank of the extension shaft would be easy to secure in the *Right Angle Drive *chuck.
> 
> I incorporated the *Flex Coupling*, a low priced assembly, to minimize the effects of misalignment between the *Right Angle Drive *and the new *Tilt Shaft*. I was delighted to find that *McMaster-Carr *carried the necessary components to permit joining the *3/8"* shaft on the *Right Angle Drive *with the new *10mm Tilt Shaft*!(Would that be called a *Multi-national* connection?) The *Spider * is a Buna - N rubber component that couples the two metal hubs and provides a small measure of flexibility.
> 
> The *Shaft Collars *were incorporated to prevent any lateral movement of the new *Tilt Shaft*. Operating the *Tilt Handwheel *could tend to push the new *Tilt Shaft *inward, putting unwanted stress on the *Right **Angle Drive*. Conversely, locking the handwheel with the *Bar Knob* would tend to pull the new *Tilt Shaft *outward, disengaging the *Flex Coupling*.
> 
> The *Spyraflo Flange Bearings* are a unique design in that the bearing surfaces are made from *Acetal (Delrin), *an engineered plastic material that is widely used in industry for low load bearing, low friction, precision bearings. These bearings are also self aligning and will tolerate up to 5º misalignment - a low cost product with amazing specifications! The *Acetal *bearing material is a product with a low coefficient of friction and requires no additional lubrication.
> 
> The flat steel and nylon washers were provided to produce low friction, rotational "thrust" bearing surfaces.
> 
> *Right Angle Drive Train Installation*
> 
> As shown below, a three-sided, open top (and bottom) box was fabricated and attached to the inside of the back and the right side of the storage cabinet. So that the storage cabinet would fit tightly against the saw cabinet, a counterbore was drilled in the outside of the storage cabinet back to accommodate the thickness of the original *Cover Plate*. An oversize hole was drilled thru the cabinet back to allow access to tighten the rear *Jamb Nut*. The photo shows the *Coupling Nut *with the extended *Tilt Shaft *and *Jamb Nuts *installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below shows the *Milescraft Drill 90 Right Angle Drill Drive* installed on the extended *Tilt Shaft*. Note the oversize access hole in the side of the cabinet to allow clearance for installation and removal of the *Right Angle Drive* with the *Flex Coupling Hub* installed. The *Right Angle Drive Hub* was approximately centered in the side opening. The open top and bottom of the enclosure allowed tightening of the chuck on the shaft extension. I chose to leave the angle drive handle attachment bolt through the housing in place. I had originally considered using the bolt to attach the drive, but found it wasn't necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As shown in the following photo, a separate external enclosure was built for mounting the *Flange Bearings *and housing the rest of the drive components. The bearing supports were fabricated and drilled as a matched pair, minimizing alignment problems. Note that the *Flex Coupling *is clearly visible and that the two *Shaft Collars *sandwich the flat anti- friction washers and the *Inner Flange Bearing*. These components were installed with full engagement of the *Flex Coupling *components and adjusted to produce minimal lateral movement of the new *Tilt Shaft*, while maintaining free rotation. Note the *Right Angle Drive * is unattached on one end, constrained only by the *Flex Coupling *- this design minimizes the stress applied to the *Right Angle Drive *in operation. The *Flex Coupling *is self adjusting, accommodating any minor misalignment of components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After installation of the drive train components, the external box position was adjusted visually to produce the best alignment of the *Flex Coupling*, minimizlng misalignment between the *Right Angle Drive *and the new *Tilt Shaft*, and clamped in place. Permanent attachment of the external box to the cabinet side was then done with screws from inside the storage cabinet.
> 
> The external surfaces of the box were covered with 5mm Birch underlayment plywood to improve appearance. I didn't like the appearance of a square box that looked like it was just stuck to the side of the storage cabinet, so I added some sloped panels to make it more aesthetic- strictly foo foo-they serve no other purpose other than to make it harder for dust to stick to them. A removable access panel was incorporated into the side of the box to allow installation, removal, and adjustment of the drive train components.
> 
> The photo below shows the *Outside Flange Bearing *installation. The pairs of *Flange Bearing *mounting holes were oriented at 90º to each other. Note the screwdriver access holes for installation of the *Inner Flange Bearing *mounting screws. The *Cover Plate*, not shown in the photo, was installed over the large hole in the face of the enclosure. Installation of the *Access Cover*, *Tilt Handwheel*, and the *Bar Knob *completed the assembly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Relocated Tilt Handwheel*
> 
> So for all of you folks who have been waiting with bated breath………..here is what the *Front-Mounted Relocated Tilt Handwheel* looks like! It is totally contained within the envelope of the front overhang of the table and fence rail and the front of the storage cabinet. In addition, there is no interference with adjacent front-mounted machine components, such as the *Power Switch*, *Elevation Handwheel*, and *Tilt Indicator*. The *Relocated Tilt Handwheel* operates smoothly, with no more effort than when it was mounted on the side of the saw - but it sure is a heck of a lot handier to use!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Handwheel Twins*
> 
> Kinda looks like a poor man's version of the new *Delta Unisaw*……………..!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Bits and Pieces and $$*
> 
> So now your next questions are going to be, *"What are the parts? Where can I buy them? and What do they cost?"* So here are some answers. You may find that substituting other parts will work just as well. Keep in mind that these are the parts I used for the *Model R4511 *- *doing a similar modification to another saw may require different parts and hardware, especially for adapting to the existing tilt shaft.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *What If My R4511 Doesn't Have a Storage Cabinet or I Have a Different Saw?
> *
> The obvious answer is 1) you could add one, or 2) you could find a *Model 4511 *on Craigslist and change saws……………!!
> 
> But let me suggest a third alternative for relocating the *Tilt Handwheel *to the front of *almost any tablesaw*.
> 
> Firstly, purchase the component parts listed above or equivalents to fit your particular saw. Altho the *Flex Coupling *could be omitted, I would recommend including it because working with wood usually isn't as precise as dealing with metal components, although with care it can be done.
> 
> Secondly, design and build a suitable enclosure for the drive components you have selected. Sometimes it is best to have the hardware in hand before fabricating anything so that you can be sure that everything is going to fit together.
> 
> As a starting point design, you might consider the concept below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would add a thin plywood or hardboard cover to the top and bottom to increase the rigidity of the enclosure and preclude dust and debris. At least one of the two covers should be removable to allow access for installation and removal of the drive train components. I would also make the two sides of the enclosure adjacent to the saw cabinet at 1 to 2 inches larger top and bottom to provide a flange for attachment of the enclosure to the saw cabinet.
> 
> *WARNING!!* This is *only *a conceptual drawing-the actual dimensions of the enclosure and the placing of components will depend upon the configuration of your saw and the drive train components selected.
> 
> Well, we have finally come to the end of this chapter. But, stay tuned…........there's more to come!
> 
> This phase of the equipment upgrade was an interesting one for me- and will be right up there near the top of my favorite changes to this tablesaw. One of the things that delights me the most is that I was able to put it together with available parts and wood scraps in the shop. And the only part alteration was to cut off the head of the bolt I used for the extension shaft and cut off the excess length of the purchased Tilt Shaft. I hope others will find this information useful. If so, please let me know-and be sure to show us some pictures if you decide to take this adventure…................
> 
> Please feel free to leave comments or constructive suggestions. All questions will be answered. And if you find any errors in the material callouts or part numbers, etc., please let me know so I can make corrections.


I probably measured the *R4511 Tilt Shaft *with a digital caliper. It fit the close tolerance *10mm *flange bearing I used very well. I took the manufacturer's word for the fact that the *Milescraft *shaft was *3/8" *- and it fit the *3/8" *bore of the flex coupling hub very well.


----------



## toolie

paulnwa said:


> *Relocated Tilt Handwheel -- Finally Making It Happen*
> 
> *My Turn-The-Corner-Thingy Selection*
> 
> My first choice was to use a small right angle gearbox, but I was unable to come up with any miniature ones with my Google searches. Fellow LJer *DIYaholic *pointed out some really skookum looking ones yesterday from sources that I somehow missed when I was searching. (Thanks, Randy - I tucked those references away in my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy* file for future projects.) Had I seen them, I might have gone that direction. The only right angle gearboxes I could find were too large and cost half as much as my saw!
> 
> But in spite of that, my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy* quest has come to a successful conclusion! The winner is the *Milescraft Drill 90 Right Angle Drill Drive*,* Model #1390*, which I purchased at my local *Lowes *store for less than $20. That said, there are other similar products that would probably work just as well, such as the compact *Milescraft Drive 90 #1302* suggested yesterday by LJer *Kiefer*. Please don't let my choices limit your thinking.
> 
> Note that my selected *Milescraft *product is very similar to the *Vermont-American Model 17172* suggested by LJer *DIYaholic *yesterday. I had seen this *V-A *model on *Amazon.com*, but it had some accessories that I knew I wasn't going to use and the price was a little higher than the *Milescraft*. I suspect that the two would be interchangeable. But the biggest driver was that I wanted to purchase something that I could get locally so that I could return it easily if it wasn't going to work for this application.
> 
> The *Milescraft Drill 90 *is a right angle drill drive with 1:1 ratio, powder metal bevel gears and bronze bearings. For this application, I didn't feel that the plastic case was a detractor because of the intermittent usage, low rotational speeds, and low stress mounting design. The integral chuck would be ideal for gripping the extended *Tilt Shaft *without having to fabricate or purchase any other adapters. This is not a precision device, but it is more than adequate for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Designing and Packaging the Drive Train
> *
> 
> Having selected my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy*, I was ready to develop a design for the rest of the drive train, which would meet my previously specified criteria, and a way to package it.
> 
> *Design Criteria*
> 
> • Low Cost
> • Simple Configuration
> • Use Available Components
> • Accommodate Possible Shaft Misalignment
> • Reduce or Eliminate Lubrication
> • Retain Original Handwheel Attachment
> • Be Contained within the Envelope of the Saw Table and Fence Rail
> 
> The photo below is what I came up with for the *Right Angle Drive *train. Note that the *Part 15 *is already installed in the new *Tilt Shaft.*
> 
> *Correction*: It has been pointed out to me that some of the parts in the *Drive Train *have been shown out of order in the photo below: Parts *#8 & #12 *should be shown *between *the two* #11 Flange Bearings.* These parts are shown in the correct position in the parts installation photos and in the *Concept Drawing.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned before, I intended to purchase the *Tilt Shaft*, *Roll Pin*, and *Cover Plate *as *Ridgid *replacement parts. Some of the other specialized parts, such as the *Flex Coupling* components and *Shaft Collars *were purchased from *McMaster-Carr * online. The other hardware items were purchased at local hardware outlets.
> 
> As a side note, I highly recommend *McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com)* as a source for almost any hardware item you can think of. Their prices are competitive, fast order turnaround, and very reasonable shipping rates. They also have some of the best prices I have found for thin wall PVC S&D ducting fittings, including 6" sizes, for DC system fabrication.
> 
> The photo below shows the drive train components assembled in their relative positions similar to the actual installation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Coupling Nut *was an easy way to attach an extension to the existing *Tilt Shaft *projecting from the side of the saw cabinet. The extension shaft was the shank from an *8mm *hex head bolt. The *Jamb Nuts * lock the *Coupling Nut * in place to prevent loosening. The round shank of the extension shaft would be easy to secure in the *Right Angle Drive *chuck.
> 
> I incorporated the *Flex Coupling*, a low priced assembly, to minimize the effects of misalignment between the *Right Angle Drive *and the new *Tilt Shaft*. I was delighted to find that *McMaster-Carr *carried the necessary components to permit joining the *3/8"* shaft on the *Right Angle Drive *with the new *10mm Tilt Shaft*!(Would that be called a *Multi-national* connection?) The *Spider * is a Buna - N rubber component that couples the two metal hubs and provides a small measure of flexibility.
> 
> The *Shaft Collars *were incorporated to prevent any lateral movement of the new *Tilt Shaft*. Operating the *Tilt Handwheel *could tend to push the new *Tilt Shaft *inward, putting unwanted stress on the *Right **Angle Drive*. Conversely, locking the handwheel with the *Bar Knob* would tend to pull the new *Tilt Shaft *outward, disengaging the *Flex Coupling*.
> 
> The *Spyraflo Flange Bearings* are a unique design in that the bearing surfaces are made from *Acetal (Delrin), *an engineered plastic material that is widely used in industry for low load bearing, low friction, precision bearings. These bearings are also self aligning and will tolerate up to 5º misalignment - a low cost product with amazing specifications! The *Acetal *bearing material is a product with a low coefficient of friction and requires no additional lubrication.
> 
> The flat steel and nylon washers were provided to produce low friction, rotational "thrust" bearing surfaces.
> 
> *Right Angle Drive Train Installation*
> 
> As shown below, a three-sided, open top (and bottom) box was fabricated and attached to the inside of the back and the right side of the storage cabinet. So that the storage cabinet would fit tightly against the saw cabinet, a counterbore was drilled in the outside of the storage cabinet back to accommodate the thickness of the original *Cover Plate*. An oversize hole was drilled thru the cabinet back to allow access to tighten the rear *Jamb Nut*. The photo shows the *Coupling Nut *with the extended *Tilt Shaft *and *Jamb Nuts *installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below shows the *Milescraft Drill 90 Right Angle Drill Drive* installed on the extended *Tilt Shaft*. Note the oversize access hole in the side of the cabinet to allow clearance for installation and removal of the *Right Angle Drive* with the *Flex Coupling Hub* installed. The *Right Angle Drive Hub* was approximately centered in the side opening. The open top and bottom of the enclosure allowed tightening of the chuck on the shaft extension. I chose to leave the angle drive handle attachment bolt through the housing in place. I had originally considered using the bolt to attach the drive, but found it wasn't necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As shown in the following photo, a separate external enclosure was built for mounting the *Flange Bearings *and housing the rest of the drive components. The bearing supports were fabricated and drilled as a matched pair, minimizing alignment problems. Note that the *Flex Coupling *is clearly visible and that the two *Shaft Collars *sandwich the flat anti- friction washers and the *Inner Flange Bearing*. These components were installed with full engagement of the *Flex Coupling *components and adjusted to produce minimal lateral movement of the new *Tilt Shaft*, while maintaining free rotation. Note the *Right Angle Drive * is unattached on one end, constrained only by the *Flex Coupling *- this design minimizes the stress applied to the *Right Angle Drive *in operation. The *Flex Coupling *is self adjusting, accommodating any minor misalignment of components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After installation of the drive train components, the external box position was adjusted visually to produce the best alignment of the *Flex Coupling*, minimizlng misalignment between the *Right Angle Drive *and the new *Tilt Shaft*, and clamped in place. Permanent attachment of the external box to the cabinet side was then done with screws from inside the storage cabinet.
> 
> The external surfaces of the box were covered with 5mm Birch underlayment plywood to improve appearance. I didn't like the appearance of a square box that looked like it was just stuck to the side of the storage cabinet, so I added some sloped panels to make it more aesthetic- strictly foo foo-they serve no other purpose other than to make it harder for dust to stick to them. A removable access panel was incorporated into the side of the box to allow installation, removal, and adjustment of the drive train components.
> 
> The photo below shows the *Outside Flange Bearing *installation. The pairs of *Flange Bearing *mounting holes were oriented at 90º to each other. Note the screwdriver access holes for installation of the *Inner Flange Bearing *mounting screws. The *Cover Plate*, not shown in the photo, was installed over the large hole in the face of the enclosure. Installation of the *Access Cover*, *Tilt Handwheel*, and the *Bar Knob *completed the assembly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Relocated Tilt Handwheel*
> 
> So for all of you folks who have been waiting with bated breath………..here is what the *Front-Mounted Relocated Tilt Handwheel* looks like! It is totally contained within the envelope of the front overhang of the table and fence rail and the front of the storage cabinet. In addition, there is no interference with adjacent front-mounted machine components, such as the *Power Switch*, *Elevation Handwheel*, and *Tilt Indicator*. The *Relocated Tilt Handwheel* operates smoothly, with no more effort than when it was mounted on the side of the saw - but it sure is a heck of a lot handier to use!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Handwheel Twins*
> 
> Kinda looks like a poor man's version of the new *Delta Unisaw*……………..!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Bits and Pieces and $$*
> 
> So now your next questions are going to be, *"What are the parts? Where can I buy them? and What do they cost?"* So here are some answers. You may find that substituting other parts will work just as well. Keep in mind that these are the parts I used for the *Model R4511 *- *doing a similar modification to another saw may require different parts and hardware, especially for adapting to the existing tilt shaft.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *What If My R4511 Doesn't Have a Storage Cabinet or I Have a Different Saw?
> *
> The obvious answer is 1) you could add one, or 2) you could find a *Model 4511 *on Craigslist and change saws……………!!
> 
> But let me suggest a third alternative for relocating the *Tilt Handwheel *to the front of *almost any tablesaw*.
> 
> Firstly, purchase the component parts listed above or equivalents to fit your particular saw. Altho the *Flex Coupling *could be omitted, I would recommend including it because working with wood usually isn't as precise as dealing with metal components, although with care it can be done.
> 
> Secondly, design and build a suitable enclosure for the drive components you have selected. Sometimes it is best to have the hardware in hand before fabricating anything so that you can be sure that everything is going to fit together.
> 
> As a starting point design, you might consider the concept below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would add a thin plywood or hardboard cover to the top and bottom to increase the rigidity of the enclosure and preclude dust and debris. At least one of the two covers should be removable to allow access for installation and removal of the drive train components. I would also make the two sides of the enclosure adjacent to the saw cabinet at 1 to 2 inches larger top and bottom to provide a flange for attachment of the enclosure to the saw cabinet.
> 
> *WARNING!!* This is *only *a conceptual drawing-the actual dimensions of the enclosure and the placing of components will depend upon the configuration of your saw and the drive train components selected.
> 
> Well, we have finally come to the end of this chapter. But, stay tuned…........there's more to come!
> 
> This phase of the equipment upgrade was an interesting one for me- and will be right up there near the top of my favorite changes to this tablesaw. One of the things that delights me the most is that I was able to put it together with available parts and wood scraps in the shop. And the only part alteration was to cut off the head of the bolt I used for the extension shaft and cut off the excess length of the purchased Tilt Shaft. I hope others will find this information useful. If so, please let me know-and be sure to show us some pictures if you decide to take this adventure…................
> 
> Please feel free to leave comments or constructive suggestions. All questions will be answered. And if you find any errors in the material callouts or part numbers, etc., please let me know so I can make corrections.


in reviewing the completed assembly pic that follows the arrangement and part numbering pic of all the parts, it appears that parts 8 and 12 sit between the 2 flange bearings (part 11) in the final assembly, as opposed to how 8 and 12 are arranged in the part numbering pic. have i git that right?


----------



## paulnwa

paulnwa said:


> *Relocated Tilt Handwheel -- Finally Making It Happen*
> 
> *My Turn-The-Corner-Thingy Selection*
> 
> My first choice was to use a small right angle gearbox, but I was unable to come up with any miniature ones with my Google searches. Fellow LJer *DIYaholic *pointed out some really skookum looking ones yesterday from sources that I somehow missed when I was searching. (Thanks, Randy - I tucked those references away in my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy* file for future projects.) Had I seen them, I might have gone that direction. The only right angle gearboxes I could find were too large and cost half as much as my saw!
> 
> But in spite of that, my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy* quest has come to a successful conclusion! The winner is the *Milescraft Drill 90 Right Angle Drill Drive*,* Model #1390*, which I purchased at my local *Lowes *store for less than $20. That said, there are other similar products that would probably work just as well, such as the compact *Milescraft Drive 90 #1302* suggested yesterday by LJer *Kiefer*. Please don't let my choices limit your thinking.
> 
> Note that my selected *Milescraft *product is very similar to the *Vermont-American Model 17172* suggested by LJer *DIYaholic *yesterday. I had seen this *V-A *model on *Amazon.com*, but it had some accessories that I knew I wasn't going to use and the price was a little higher than the *Milescraft*. I suspect that the two would be interchangeable. But the biggest driver was that I wanted to purchase something that I could get locally so that I could return it easily if it wasn't going to work for this application.
> 
> The *Milescraft Drill 90 *is a right angle drill drive with 1:1 ratio, powder metal bevel gears and bronze bearings. For this application, I didn't feel that the plastic case was a detractor because of the intermittent usage, low rotational speeds, and low stress mounting design. The integral chuck would be ideal for gripping the extended *Tilt Shaft *without having to fabricate or purchase any other adapters. This is not a precision device, but it is more than adequate for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Designing and Packaging the Drive Train
> *
> 
> Having selected my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy*, I was ready to develop a design for the rest of the drive train, which would meet my previously specified criteria, and a way to package it.
> 
> *Design Criteria*
> 
> • Low Cost
> • Simple Configuration
> • Use Available Components
> • Accommodate Possible Shaft Misalignment
> • Reduce or Eliminate Lubrication
> • Retain Original Handwheel Attachment
> • Be Contained within the Envelope of the Saw Table and Fence Rail
> 
> The photo below is what I came up with for the *Right Angle Drive *train. Note that the *Part 15 *is already installed in the new *Tilt Shaft.*
> 
> *Correction*: It has been pointed out to me that some of the parts in the *Drive Train *have been shown out of order in the photo below: Parts *#8 & #12 *should be shown *between *the two* #11 Flange Bearings.* These parts are shown in the correct position in the parts installation photos and in the *Concept Drawing.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned before, I intended to purchase the *Tilt Shaft*, *Roll Pin*, and *Cover Plate *as *Ridgid *replacement parts. Some of the other specialized parts, such as the *Flex Coupling* components and *Shaft Collars *were purchased from *McMaster-Carr * online. The other hardware items were purchased at local hardware outlets.
> 
> As a side note, I highly recommend *McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com)* as a source for almost any hardware item you can think of. Their prices are competitive, fast order turnaround, and very reasonable shipping rates. They also have some of the best prices I have found for thin wall PVC S&D ducting fittings, including 6" sizes, for DC system fabrication.
> 
> The photo below shows the drive train components assembled in their relative positions similar to the actual installation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Coupling Nut *was an easy way to attach an extension to the existing *Tilt Shaft *projecting from the side of the saw cabinet. The extension shaft was the shank from an *8mm *hex head bolt. The *Jamb Nuts * lock the *Coupling Nut * in place to prevent loosening. The round shank of the extension shaft would be easy to secure in the *Right Angle Drive *chuck.
> 
> I incorporated the *Flex Coupling*, a low priced assembly, to minimize the effects of misalignment between the *Right Angle Drive *and the new *Tilt Shaft*. I was delighted to find that *McMaster-Carr *carried the necessary components to permit joining the *3/8"* shaft on the *Right Angle Drive *with the new *10mm Tilt Shaft*!(Would that be called a *Multi-national* connection?) The *Spider * is a Buna - N rubber component that couples the two metal hubs and provides a small measure of flexibility.
> 
> The *Shaft Collars *were incorporated to prevent any lateral movement of the new *Tilt Shaft*. Operating the *Tilt Handwheel *could tend to push the new *Tilt Shaft *inward, putting unwanted stress on the *Right **Angle Drive*. Conversely, locking the handwheel with the *Bar Knob* would tend to pull the new *Tilt Shaft *outward, disengaging the *Flex Coupling*.
> 
> The *Spyraflo Flange Bearings* are a unique design in that the bearing surfaces are made from *Acetal (Delrin), *an engineered plastic material that is widely used in industry for low load bearing, low friction, precision bearings. These bearings are also self aligning and will tolerate up to 5º misalignment - a low cost product with amazing specifications! The *Acetal *bearing material is a product with a low coefficient of friction and requires no additional lubrication.
> 
> The flat steel and nylon washers were provided to produce low friction, rotational "thrust" bearing surfaces.
> 
> *Right Angle Drive Train Installation*
> 
> As shown below, a three-sided, open top (and bottom) box was fabricated and attached to the inside of the back and the right side of the storage cabinet. So that the storage cabinet would fit tightly against the saw cabinet, a counterbore was drilled in the outside of the storage cabinet back to accommodate the thickness of the original *Cover Plate*. An oversize hole was drilled thru the cabinet back to allow access to tighten the rear *Jamb Nut*. The photo shows the *Coupling Nut *with the extended *Tilt Shaft *and *Jamb Nuts *installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below shows the *Milescraft Drill 90 Right Angle Drill Drive* installed on the extended *Tilt Shaft*. Note the oversize access hole in the side of the cabinet to allow clearance for installation and removal of the *Right Angle Drive* with the *Flex Coupling Hub* installed. The *Right Angle Drive Hub* was approximately centered in the side opening. The open top and bottom of the enclosure allowed tightening of the chuck on the shaft extension. I chose to leave the angle drive handle attachment bolt through the housing in place. I had originally considered using the bolt to attach the drive, but found it wasn't necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As shown in the following photo, a separate external enclosure was built for mounting the *Flange Bearings *and housing the rest of the drive components. The bearing supports were fabricated and drilled as a matched pair, minimizing alignment problems. Note that the *Flex Coupling *is clearly visible and that the two *Shaft Collars *sandwich the flat anti- friction washers and the *Inner Flange Bearing*. These components were installed with full engagement of the *Flex Coupling *components and adjusted to produce minimal lateral movement of the new *Tilt Shaft*, while maintaining free rotation. Note the *Right Angle Drive * is unattached on one end, constrained only by the *Flex Coupling *- this design minimizes the stress applied to the *Right Angle Drive *in operation. The *Flex Coupling *is self adjusting, accommodating any minor misalignment of components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After installation of the drive train components, the external box position was adjusted visually to produce the best alignment of the *Flex Coupling*, minimizlng misalignment between the *Right Angle Drive *and the new *Tilt Shaft*, and clamped in place. Permanent attachment of the external box to the cabinet side was then done with screws from inside the storage cabinet.
> 
> The external surfaces of the box were covered with 5mm Birch underlayment plywood to improve appearance. I didn't like the appearance of a square box that looked like it was just stuck to the side of the storage cabinet, so I added some sloped panels to make it more aesthetic- strictly foo foo-they serve no other purpose other than to make it harder for dust to stick to them. A removable access panel was incorporated into the side of the box to allow installation, removal, and adjustment of the drive train components.
> 
> The photo below shows the *Outside Flange Bearing *installation. The pairs of *Flange Bearing *mounting holes were oriented at 90º to each other. Note the screwdriver access holes for installation of the *Inner Flange Bearing *mounting screws. The *Cover Plate*, not shown in the photo, was installed over the large hole in the face of the enclosure. Installation of the *Access Cover*, *Tilt Handwheel*, and the *Bar Knob *completed the assembly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Relocated Tilt Handwheel*
> 
> So for all of you folks who have been waiting with bated breath………..here is what the *Front-Mounted Relocated Tilt Handwheel* looks like! It is totally contained within the envelope of the front overhang of the table and fence rail and the front of the storage cabinet. In addition, there is no interference with adjacent front-mounted machine components, such as the *Power Switch*, *Elevation Handwheel*, and *Tilt Indicator*. The *Relocated Tilt Handwheel* operates smoothly, with no more effort than when it was mounted on the side of the saw - but it sure is a heck of a lot handier to use!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Handwheel Twins*
> 
> Kinda looks like a poor man's version of the new *Delta Unisaw*……………..!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Bits and Pieces and $$*
> 
> So now your next questions are going to be, *"What are the parts? Where can I buy them? and What do they cost?"* So here are some answers. You may find that substituting other parts will work just as well. Keep in mind that these are the parts I used for the *Model R4511 *- *doing a similar modification to another saw may require different parts and hardware, especially for adapting to the existing tilt shaft.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *What If My R4511 Doesn't Have a Storage Cabinet or I Have a Different Saw?
> *
> The obvious answer is 1) you could add one, or 2) you could find a *Model 4511 *on Craigslist and change saws……………!!
> 
> But let me suggest a third alternative for relocating the *Tilt Handwheel *to the front of *almost any tablesaw*.
> 
> Firstly, purchase the component parts listed above or equivalents to fit your particular saw. Altho the *Flex Coupling *could be omitted, I would recommend including it because working with wood usually isn't as precise as dealing with metal components, although with care it can be done.
> 
> Secondly, design and build a suitable enclosure for the drive components you have selected. Sometimes it is best to have the hardware in hand before fabricating anything so that you can be sure that everything is going to fit together.
> 
> As a starting point design, you might consider the concept below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would add a thin plywood or hardboard cover to the top and bottom to increase the rigidity of the enclosure and preclude dust and debris. At least one of the two covers should be removable to allow access for installation and removal of the drive train components. I would also make the two sides of the enclosure adjacent to the saw cabinet at 1 to 2 inches larger top and bottom to provide a flange for attachment of the enclosure to the saw cabinet.
> 
> *WARNING!!* This is *only *a conceptual drawing-the actual dimensions of the enclosure and the placing of components will depend upon the configuration of your saw and the drive train components selected.
> 
> Well, we have finally come to the end of this chapter. But, stay tuned…........there's more to come!
> 
> This phase of the equipment upgrade was an interesting one for me- and will be right up there near the top of my favorite changes to this tablesaw. One of the things that delights me the most is that I was able to put it together with available parts and wood scraps in the shop. And the only part alteration was to cut off the head of the bolt I used for the extension shaft and cut off the excess length of the purchased Tilt Shaft. I hope others will find this information useful. If so, please let me know-and be sure to show us some pictures if you decide to take this adventure…................
> 
> Please feel free to leave comments or constructive suggestions. All questions will be answered. And if you find any errors in the material callouts or part numbers, etc., please let me know so I can make corrections.


Yes, you are right! The assembly view is correct. As many times as I looked at that part numbering pic, I didn't see the discrepancy. Thanks for pointing it out. You can also see those two parts in the last pic showing the drive train installed. The concept drawing also shows them correctly.


----------



## toolie

paulnwa said:


> *Relocated Tilt Handwheel -- Finally Making It Happen*
> 
> *My Turn-The-Corner-Thingy Selection*
> 
> My first choice was to use a small right angle gearbox, but I was unable to come up with any miniature ones with my Google searches. Fellow LJer *DIYaholic *pointed out some really skookum looking ones yesterday from sources that I somehow missed when I was searching. (Thanks, Randy - I tucked those references away in my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy* file for future projects.) Had I seen them, I might have gone that direction. The only right angle gearboxes I could find were too large and cost half as much as my saw!
> 
> But in spite of that, my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy* quest has come to a successful conclusion! The winner is the *Milescraft Drill 90 Right Angle Drill Drive*,* Model #1390*, which I purchased at my local *Lowes *store for less than $20. That said, there are other similar products that would probably work just as well, such as the compact *Milescraft Drive 90 #1302* suggested yesterday by LJer *Kiefer*. Please don't let my choices limit your thinking.
> 
> Note that my selected *Milescraft *product is very similar to the *Vermont-American Model 17172* suggested by LJer *DIYaholic *yesterday. I had seen this *V-A *model on *Amazon.com*, but it had some accessories that I knew I wasn't going to use and the price was a little higher than the *Milescraft*. I suspect that the two would be interchangeable. But the biggest driver was that I wanted to purchase something that I could get locally so that I could return it easily if it wasn't going to work for this application.
> 
> The *Milescraft Drill 90 *is a right angle drill drive with 1:1 ratio, powder metal bevel gears and bronze bearings. For this application, I didn't feel that the plastic case was a detractor because of the intermittent usage, low rotational speeds, and low stress mounting design. The integral chuck would be ideal for gripping the extended *Tilt Shaft *without having to fabricate or purchase any other adapters. This is not a precision device, but it is more than adequate for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Designing and Packaging the Drive Train
> *
> 
> Having selected my *Turn-The-Corner-Thingy*, I was ready to develop a design for the rest of the drive train, which would meet my previously specified criteria, and a way to package it.
> 
> *Design Criteria*
> 
> • Low Cost
> • Simple Configuration
> • Use Available Components
> • Accommodate Possible Shaft Misalignment
> • Reduce or Eliminate Lubrication
> • Retain Original Handwheel Attachment
> • Be Contained within the Envelope of the Saw Table and Fence Rail
> 
> The photo below is what I came up with for the *Right Angle Drive *train. Note that the *Part 15 *is already installed in the new *Tilt Shaft.*
> 
> *Correction*: It has been pointed out to me that some of the parts in the *Drive Train *have been shown out of order in the photo below: Parts *#8 & #12 *should be shown *between *the two* #11 Flange Bearings.* These parts are shown in the correct position in the parts installation photos and in the *Concept Drawing.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned before, I intended to purchase the *Tilt Shaft*, *Roll Pin*, and *Cover Plate *as *Ridgid *replacement parts. Some of the other specialized parts, such as the *Flex Coupling* components and *Shaft Collars *were purchased from *McMaster-Carr * online. The other hardware items were purchased at local hardware outlets.
> 
> As a side note, I highly recommend *McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com)* as a source for almost any hardware item you can think of. Their prices are competitive, fast order turnaround, and very reasonable shipping rates. They also have some of the best prices I have found for thin wall PVC S&D ducting fittings, including 6" sizes, for DC system fabrication.
> 
> The photo below shows the drive train components assembled in their relative positions similar to the actual installation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Coupling Nut *was an easy way to attach an extension to the existing *Tilt Shaft *projecting from the side of the saw cabinet. The extension shaft was the shank from an *8mm *hex head bolt. The *Jamb Nuts * lock the *Coupling Nut * in place to prevent loosening. The round shank of the extension shaft would be easy to secure in the *Right Angle Drive *chuck.
> 
> I incorporated the *Flex Coupling*, a low priced assembly, to minimize the effects of misalignment between the *Right Angle Drive *and the new *Tilt Shaft*. I was delighted to find that *McMaster-Carr *carried the necessary components to permit joining the *3/8"* shaft on the *Right Angle Drive *with the new *10mm Tilt Shaft*!(Would that be called a *Multi-national* connection?) The *Spider * is a Buna - N rubber component that couples the two metal hubs and provides a small measure of flexibility.
> 
> The *Shaft Collars *were incorporated to prevent any lateral movement of the new *Tilt Shaft*. Operating the *Tilt Handwheel *could tend to push the new *Tilt Shaft *inward, putting unwanted stress on the *Right **Angle Drive*. Conversely, locking the handwheel with the *Bar Knob* would tend to pull the new *Tilt Shaft *outward, disengaging the *Flex Coupling*.
> 
> The *Spyraflo Flange Bearings* are a unique design in that the bearing surfaces are made from *Acetal (Delrin), *an engineered plastic material that is widely used in industry for low load bearing, low friction, precision bearings. These bearings are also self aligning and will tolerate up to 5º misalignment - a low cost product with amazing specifications! The *Acetal *bearing material is a product with a low coefficient of friction and requires no additional lubrication.
> 
> The flat steel and nylon washers were provided to produce low friction, rotational "thrust" bearing surfaces.
> 
> *Right Angle Drive Train Installation*
> 
> As shown below, a three-sided, open top (and bottom) box was fabricated and attached to the inside of the back and the right side of the storage cabinet. So that the storage cabinet would fit tightly against the saw cabinet, a counterbore was drilled in the outside of the storage cabinet back to accommodate the thickness of the original *Cover Plate*. An oversize hole was drilled thru the cabinet back to allow access to tighten the rear *Jamb Nut*. The photo shows the *Coupling Nut *with the extended *Tilt Shaft *and *Jamb Nuts *installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below shows the *Milescraft Drill 90 Right Angle Drill Drive* installed on the extended *Tilt Shaft*. Note the oversize access hole in the side of the cabinet to allow clearance for installation and removal of the *Right Angle Drive* with the *Flex Coupling Hub* installed. The *Right Angle Drive Hub* was approximately centered in the side opening. The open top and bottom of the enclosure allowed tightening of the chuck on the shaft extension. I chose to leave the angle drive handle attachment bolt through the housing in place. I had originally considered using the bolt to attach the drive, but found it wasn't necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As shown in the following photo, a separate external enclosure was built for mounting the *Flange Bearings *and housing the rest of the drive components. The bearing supports were fabricated and drilled as a matched pair, minimizing alignment problems. Note that the *Flex Coupling *is clearly visible and that the two *Shaft Collars *sandwich the flat anti- friction washers and the *Inner Flange Bearing*. These components were installed with full engagement of the *Flex Coupling *components and adjusted to produce minimal lateral movement of the new *Tilt Shaft*, while maintaining free rotation. Note the *Right Angle Drive * is unattached on one end, constrained only by the *Flex Coupling *- this design minimizes the stress applied to the *Right Angle Drive *in operation. The *Flex Coupling *is self adjusting, accommodating any minor misalignment of components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After installation of the drive train components, the external box position was adjusted visually to produce the best alignment of the *Flex Coupling*, minimizlng misalignment between the *Right Angle Drive *and the new *Tilt Shaft*, and clamped in place. Permanent attachment of the external box to the cabinet side was then done with screws from inside the storage cabinet.
> 
> The external surfaces of the box were covered with 5mm Birch underlayment plywood to improve appearance. I didn't like the appearance of a square box that looked like it was just stuck to the side of the storage cabinet, so I added some sloped panels to make it more aesthetic- strictly foo foo-they serve no other purpose other than to make it harder for dust to stick to them. A removable access panel was incorporated into the side of the box to allow installation, removal, and adjustment of the drive train components.
> 
> The photo below shows the *Outside Flange Bearing *installation. The pairs of *Flange Bearing *mounting holes were oriented at 90º to each other. Note the screwdriver access holes for installation of the *Inner Flange Bearing *mounting screws. The *Cover Plate*, not shown in the photo, was installed over the large hole in the face of the enclosure. Installation of the *Access Cover*, *Tilt Handwheel*, and the *Bar Knob *completed the assembly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Relocated Tilt Handwheel*
> 
> So for all of you folks who have been waiting with bated breath………..here is what the *Front-Mounted Relocated Tilt Handwheel* looks like! It is totally contained within the envelope of the front overhang of the table and fence rail and the front of the storage cabinet. In addition, there is no interference with adjacent front-mounted machine components, such as the *Power Switch*, *Elevation Handwheel*, and *Tilt Indicator*. The *Relocated Tilt Handwheel* operates smoothly, with no more effort than when it was mounted on the side of the saw - but it sure is a heck of a lot handier to use!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Handwheel Twins*
> 
> Kinda looks like a poor man's version of the new *Delta Unisaw*……………..!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Bits and Pieces and $$*
> 
> So now your next questions are going to be, *"What are the parts? Where can I buy them? and What do they cost?"* So here are some answers. You may find that substituting other parts will work just as well. Keep in mind that these are the parts I used for the *Model R4511 *- *doing a similar modification to another saw may require different parts and hardware, especially for adapting to the existing tilt shaft.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *What If My R4511 Doesn't Have a Storage Cabinet or I Have a Different Saw?
> *
> The obvious answer is 1) you could add one, or 2) you could find a *Model 4511 *on Craigslist and change saws……………!!
> 
> But let me suggest a third alternative for relocating the *Tilt Handwheel *to the front of *almost any tablesaw*.
> 
> Firstly, purchase the component parts listed above or equivalents to fit your particular saw. Altho the *Flex Coupling *could be omitted, I would recommend including it because working with wood usually isn't as precise as dealing with metal components, although with care it can be done.
> 
> Secondly, design and build a suitable enclosure for the drive components you have selected. Sometimes it is best to have the hardware in hand before fabricating anything so that you can be sure that everything is going to fit together.
> 
> As a starting point design, you might consider the concept below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would add a thin plywood or hardboard cover to the top and bottom to increase the rigidity of the enclosure and preclude dust and debris. At least one of the two covers should be removable to allow access for installation and removal of the drive train components. I would also make the two sides of the enclosure adjacent to the saw cabinet at 1 to 2 inches larger top and bottom to provide a flange for attachment of the enclosure to the saw cabinet.
> 
> *WARNING!!* This is *only *a conceptual drawing-the actual dimensions of the enclosure and the placing of components will depend upon the configuration of your saw and the drive train components selected.
> 
> Well, we have finally come to the end of this chapter. But, stay tuned…........there's more to come!
> 
> This phase of the equipment upgrade was an interesting one for me- and will be right up there near the top of my favorite changes to this tablesaw. One of the things that delights me the most is that I was able to put it together with available parts and wood scraps in the shop. And the only part alteration was to cut off the head of the bolt I used for the extension shaft and cut off the excess length of the purchased Tilt Shaft. I hope others will find this information useful. If so, please let me know-and be sure to show us some pictures if you decide to take this adventure…................
> 
> Please feel free to leave comments or constructive suggestions. All questions will be answered. And if you find any errors in the material callouts or part numbers, etc., please let me know so I can make corrections.


thanks. i'm looking into adapting the idea to my 10" contractor TSs. i only hope i'm as successful as you were in locating the drivetrain parts (other than the RA drive, which i've found @ HD)


----------



## paulnwa

*Tilt Indicator Redesign*

As shown below, the *Tilt Angle Indicator *furnished with the *Model R4511* was typical of most tablesaws - a sheet metal pointer secured to the arbor tilt mechanism.

















These pointers are somewhat fragile and easily bumped out of alignment. This one was bent when I received the saw, and you can see from the worn off paint that I didn't do a very good job of straightening it (while on the saw). At best, this type of device provides a very rough indication of actual blade tilt angle. As a result many woodworkers today use more accurate means to set or measure the blade tilt angle, such as drafting triangles, protractors, squares, or digital indicators.

In searching for a better indicating method, I ran across an idea on the *NC Woodworker* forum (www.ncwoodworker.net) proposed by *Mr. Alan Schaffter*, a very accomplished woodworker from North Carolina. *Mr. Schaffter *is a retired engineer, inventor, and author - perhaps you have seen some of his articles in the *American Woodworker *magazine.

*Mr. Schaffter *proposed mounting a *Digital Angle Cube *to replace the stock tilt angle indicator. This modification would provide very accurate *Tilt Angle *measurement and would work with any of the available *Angle Cubes*, such as the *Wixey, IGaging, Beall*, etc. Based upon his idea, I decided to develop a design to include this feature on my *Model 4511*.

To that end, I designed a new mounting arrangement to replace the original sheet metal pointer. Because the mounting screw for the indicator was over 3 inches *inside *the saw cabinet, the new mounting bracket needed to be rigid and sturdy to carry the extra weight of the angle cube and the mounting arm. In addition, because I wanted the digital display to be outside of the periphery of the *Elevation Handwheel*, so that the reading would be visible at any angle, the increased the moment of the cantilevered mounting arm further increased the need for good rigidity.

The photos below show the front and rear views of the new *Tilt Indicator *mounting arm and bracket. The mounting arm is a piece of ½" Baltic Birch plywood, long enough to reach outside the *Elevation Handwheel*. The bracket is a three piece Z-shaped assembly, patterned after the original sheet metal device. Since I don't have any welding capability, screws were used to attach the bracket components. A steel sheet metal construction *Angle Clip *was used as a base for the *Angle Cube *attachment. The pointer was made from a brass screw hook and mounted at the correct angle to match the *Tilt Angle Scale* on the front panel of the saw. The new pointer was included in the design to give a method of rough indication when making a large tilt angle change. This helps offset the time delay inherent in the digital display before it will display a new reading.

In addition to building the new *Tilt Angle Indicator* mounting, I had to square off and slightly extend the right hand end of the curved slot in the front panel. This was necessary to accommodate the extra thickness of the new Z-bracket.

















Before installing the *Angle Cube *on the new mounting bracket, I first checked the *actual blade angle*, with the *Tilt Mechanism *rotated against the built in reference stop. This procedure is very simple as shown in the photos below. The left hand photo shows the *Angle Cube zeroed* to the saw table to provide the reference point. The right hand photo shows that the *Angle Cube * attached to the saw blade does indeed indicate that the blade is *exactly **90º* to the saw table.

















The following photo shows the new *Tilt Angle *mounting assembly in place on the saw with the *Angle Cube * installed. Integral rare earth magnets in the case of the *Angle Cube *hold the device in place on the *Angle Clip*. With the blade vertical, as verified in the previous test, the *Angle Cube *has been *zeroed *again *while on the bracket*, to provide a vertical blade angle reference. Any movement of the blade from the vertical position will be indicated on the *Angle Cube *, in spite of the fact that the *Angle Cube *is not mounted in the horizontal position.

You will notice that the *Angle Cube *I use is one made by *IGaging*. I also have another *Angle Cube *made by *Wixey*. I prefer the *IGaging *model because it uses a single standard 9VDC battery, which seems to provide better battery life-as it should since it has a much higher mA capacity than the button cell in the *Wixey*. Either of these models or similar ones marketed by *Beall *and others will work just as well.










As shown in the following photo I checked the 45º blade angle position by turning my new hand dandy *Front Mounted Tilt Handweel* until the *Angle Cube *display indicated *exactly **45º*. Altho I could have, I didn't set the 45º stop screw under the table at that point. I prefer to ease up on the end point instead of bumping up against a hard end point to minimize the stress on the *Tilt *mechanism.










As shown in the photos below, I verified the actual *45º *blade position in the same way I verified the vertical position. The left hand photo shows the *Angle Cube zeroed* to the saw table to provide the reference point. The right hand photo shows that the *Angle Cube *attached to the saw blade does indeed indicate that the blade is *exactly **45º *to the saw table.

















*Usage Note*: If the *Angle Cube* display turns *Off *while the blade is tilted, it may be necessary to return the blade to the vertical position, turn it back *On * and *zero *the display with the *Angle Cube* on its bracket. *Angle Cubes *are designed to save battery life by automatically shutting off the display after a fixed idle interval.

One of the nice features of using an *Angle Cube *for the *Tilt Angle Indicator *is that it can be easily removed from the bracket to use for other purposes, such as setting accurate miter gage angles, measuring angles between adjacent pieces in a project, etc. Also, having the *Angle Cube *stored on its mounting bracket in under the saw overhang protects the device from being bumped into or dropped on the floor.

Thanks again to *Mr. Alan Schaffter *for his original idea.

Well, it looks like we have come to the end of this chapter. Please come back again-there's at least one more chapter coming.

Please feel free to offer comments or constructive criticism. All questions will be answered.


----------



## jaydubya

paulnwa said:


> *Tilt Indicator Redesign*
> 
> As shown below, the *Tilt Angle Indicator *furnished with the *Model R4511* was typical of most tablesaws - a sheet metal pointer secured to the arbor tilt mechanism.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pointers are somewhat fragile and easily bumped out of alignment. This one was bent when I received the saw, and you can see from the worn off paint that I didn't do a very good job of straightening it (while on the saw). At best, this type of device provides a very rough indication of actual blade tilt angle. As a result many woodworkers today use more accurate means to set or measure the blade tilt angle, such as drafting triangles, protractors, squares, or digital indicators.
> 
> In searching for a better indicating method, I ran across an idea on the *NC Woodworker* forum (www.ncwoodworker.net) proposed by *Mr. Alan Schaffter*, a very accomplished woodworker from North Carolina. *Mr. Schaffter *is a retired engineer, inventor, and author - perhaps you have seen some of his articles in the *American Woodworker *magazine.
> 
> *Mr. Schaffter *proposed mounting a *Digital Angle Cube *to replace the stock tilt angle indicator. This modification would provide very accurate *Tilt Angle *measurement and would work with any of the available *Angle Cubes*, such as the *Wixey, IGaging, Beall*, etc. Based upon his idea, I decided to develop a design to include this feature on my *Model 4511*.
> 
> To that end, I designed a new mounting arrangement to replace the original sheet metal pointer. Because the mounting screw for the indicator was over 3 inches *inside *the saw cabinet, the new mounting bracket needed to be rigid and sturdy to carry the extra weight of the angle cube and the mounting arm. In addition, because I wanted the digital display to be outside of the periphery of the *Elevation Handwheel*, so that the reading would be visible at any angle, the increased the moment of the cantilevered mounting arm further increased the need for good rigidity.
> 
> The photos below show the front and rear views of the new *Tilt Indicator *mounting arm and bracket. The mounting arm is a piece of ½" Baltic Birch plywood, long enough to reach outside the *Elevation Handwheel*. The bracket is a three piece Z-shaped assembly, patterned after the original sheet metal device. Since I don't have any welding capability, screws were used to attach the bracket components. A steel sheet metal construction *Angle Clip *was used as a base for the *Angle Cube *attachment. The pointer was made from a brass screw hook and mounted at the correct angle to match the *Tilt Angle Scale* on the front panel of the saw. The new pointer was included in the design to give a method of rough indication when making a large tilt angle change. This helps offset the time delay inherent in the digital display before it will display a new reading.
> 
> In addition to building the new *Tilt Angle Indicator* mounting, I had to square off and slightly extend the right hand end of the curved slot in the front panel. This was necessary to accommodate the extra thickness of the new Z-bracket.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before installing the *Angle Cube *on the new mounting bracket, I first checked the *actual blade angle*, with the *Tilt Mechanism *rotated against the built in reference stop. This procedure is very simple as shown in the photos below. The left hand photo shows the *Angle Cube zeroed* to the saw table to provide the reference point. The right hand photo shows that the *Angle Cube * attached to the saw blade does indeed indicate that the blade is *exactly **90º* to the saw table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The following photo shows the new *Tilt Angle *mounting assembly in place on the saw with the *Angle Cube * installed. Integral rare earth magnets in the case of the *Angle Cube *hold the device in place on the *Angle Clip*. With the blade vertical, as verified in the previous test, the *Angle Cube *has been *zeroed *again *while on the bracket*, to provide a vertical blade angle reference. Any movement of the blade from the vertical position will be indicated on the *Angle Cube *, in spite of the fact that the *Angle Cube *is not mounted in the horizontal position.
> 
> You will notice that the *Angle Cube *I use is one made by *IGaging*. I also have another *Angle Cube *made by *Wixey*. I prefer the *IGaging *model because it uses a single standard 9VDC battery, which seems to provide better battery life-as it should since it has a much higher mA capacity than the button cell in the *Wixey*. Either of these models or similar ones marketed by *Beall *and others will work just as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As shown in the following photo I checked the 45º blade angle position by turning my new hand dandy *Front Mounted Tilt Handweel* until the *Angle Cube *display indicated *exactly **45º*. Altho I could have, I didn't set the 45º stop screw under the table at that point. I prefer to ease up on the end point instead of bumping up against a hard end point to minimize the stress on the *Tilt *mechanism.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As shown in the photos below, I verified the actual *45º *blade position in the same way I verified the vertical position. The left hand photo shows the *Angle Cube zeroed* to the saw table to provide the reference point. The right hand photo shows that the *Angle Cube *attached to the saw blade does indeed indicate that the blade is *exactly **45º *to the saw table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Usage Note*: If the *Angle Cube* display turns *Off *while the blade is tilted, it may be necessary to return the blade to the vertical position, turn it back *On * and *zero *the display with the *Angle Cube* on its bracket. *Angle Cubes *are designed to save battery life by automatically shutting off the display after a fixed idle interval.
> 
> One of the nice features of using an *Angle Cube *for the *Tilt Angle Indicator *is that it can be easily removed from the bracket to use for other purposes, such as setting accurate miter gage angles, measuring angles between adjacent pieces in a project, etc. Also, having the *Angle Cube *stored on its mounting bracket in under the saw overhang protects the device from being bumped into or dropped on the floor.
> 
> Thanks again to *Mr. Alan Schaffter *for his original idea.
> 
> Well, it looks like we have come to the end of this chapter. Please come back again-there's at least one more chapter coming.
> 
> Please feel free to offer comments or constructive criticism. All questions will be answered.


I love it. Your entire series here makes me want to get to work. My heater that I ordered will be here middle of the week so maybe i can get some stuff done in the shop


----------



## DIYaholic

paulnwa said:


> *Tilt Indicator Redesign*
> 
> As shown below, the *Tilt Angle Indicator *furnished with the *Model R4511* was typical of most tablesaws - a sheet metal pointer secured to the arbor tilt mechanism.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pointers are somewhat fragile and easily bumped out of alignment. This one was bent when I received the saw, and you can see from the worn off paint that I didn't do a very good job of straightening it (while on the saw). At best, this type of device provides a very rough indication of actual blade tilt angle. As a result many woodworkers today use more accurate means to set or measure the blade tilt angle, such as drafting triangles, protractors, squares, or digital indicators.
> 
> In searching for a better indicating method, I ran across an idea on the *NC Woodworker* forum (www.ncwoodworker.net) proposed by *Mr. Alan Schaffter*, a very accomplished woodworker from North Carolina. *Mr. Schaffter *is a retired engineer, inventor, and author - perhaps you have seen some of his articles in the *American Woodworker *magazine.
> 
> *Mr. Schaffter *proposed mounting a *Digital Angle Cube *to replace the stock tilt angle indicator. This modification would provide very accurate *Tilt Angle *measurement and would work with any of the available *Angle Cubes*, such as the *Wixey, IGaging, Beall*, etc. Based upon his idea, I decided to develop a design to include this feature on my *Model 4511*.
> 
> To that end, I designed a new mounting arrangement to replace the original sheet metal pointer. Because the mounting screw for the indicator was over 3 inches *inside *the saw cabinet, the new mounting bracket needed to be rigid and sturdy to carry the extra weight of the angle cube and the mounting arm. In addition, because I wanted the digital display to be outside of the periphery of the *Elevation Handwheel*, so that the reading would be visible at any angle, the increased the moment of the cantilevered mounting arm further increased the need for good rigidity.
> 
> The photos below show the front and rear views of the new *Tilt Indicator *mounting arm and bracket. The mounting arm is a piece of ½" Baltic Birch plywood, long enough to reach outside the *Elevation Handwheel*. The bracket is a three piece Z-shaped assembly, patterned after the original sheet metal device. Since I don't have any welding capability, screws were used to attach the bracket components. A steel sheet metal construction *Angle Clip *was used as a base for the *Angle Cube *attachment. The pointer was made from a brass screw hook and mounted at the correct angle to match the *Tilt Angle Scale* on the front panel of the saw. The new pointer was included in the design to give a method of rough indication when making a large tilt angle change. This helps offset the time delay inherent in the digital display before it will display a new reading.
> 
> In addition to building the new *Tilt Angle Indicator* mounting, I had to square off and slightly extend the right hand end of the curved slot in the front panel. This was necessary to accommodate the extra thickness of the new Z-bracket.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before installing the *Angle Cube *on the new mounting bracket, I first checked the *actual blade angle*, with the *Tilt Mechanism *rotated against the built in reference stop. This procedure is very simple as shown in the photos below. The left hand photo shows the *Angle Cube zeroed* to the saw table to provide the reference point. The right hand photo shows that the *Angle Cube * attached to the saw blade does indeed indicate that the blade is *exactly **90º* to the saw table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The following photo shows the new *Tilt Angle *mounting assembly in place on the saw with the *Angle Cube * installed. Integral rare earth magnets in the case of the *Angle Cube *hold the device in place on the *Angle Clip*. With the blade vertical, as verified in the previous test, the *Angle Cube *has been *zeroed *again *while on the bracket*, to provide a vertical blade angle reference. Any movement of the blade from the vertical position will be indicated on the *Angle Cube *, in spite of the fact that the *Angle Cube *is not mounted in the horizontal position.
> 
> You will notice that the *Angle Cube *I use is one made by *IGaging*. I also have another *Angle Cube *made by *Wixey*. I prefer the *IGaging *model because it uses a single standard 9VDC battery, which seems to provide better battery life-as it should since it has a much higher mA capacity than the button cell in the *Wixey*. Either of these models or similar ones marketed by *Beall *and others will work just as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As shown in the following photo I checked the 45º blade angle position by turning my new hand dandy *Front Mounted Tilt Handweel* until the *Angle Cube *display indicated *exactly **45º*. Altho I could have, I didn't set the 45º stop screw under the table at that point. I prefer to ease up on the end point instead of bumping up against a hard end point to minimize the stress on the *Tilt *mechanism.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As shown in the photos below, I verified the actual *45º *blade position in the same way I verified the vertical position. The left hand photo shows the *Angle Cube zeroed* to the saw table to provide the reference point. The right hand photo shows that the *Angle Cube *attached to the saw blade does indeed indicate that the blade is *exactly **45º *to the saw table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Usage Note*: If the *Angle Cube* display turns *Off *while the blade is tilted, it may be necessary to return the blade to the vertical position, turn it back *On * and *zero *the display with the *Angle Cube* on its bracket. *Angle Cubes *are designed to save battery life by automatically shutting off the display after a fixed idle interval.
> 
> One of the nice features of using an *Angle Cube *for the *Tilt Angle Indicator *is that it can be easily removed from the bracket to use for other purposes, such as setting accurate miter gage angles, measuring angles between adjacent pieces in a project, etc. Also, having the *Angle Cube *stored on its mounting bracket in under the saw overhang protects the device from being bumped into or dropped on the floor.
> 
> Thanks again to *Mr. Alan Schaffter *for his original idea.
> 
> Well, it looks like we have come to the end of this chapter. Please come back again-there's at least one more chapter coming.
> 
> Please feel free to offer comments or constructive criticism. All questions will be answered.


Another great detailed narrative of your tablesaw re-engineering! Great job. How much more could possibly be left to improve upon? I hope you have many more installments (or other machines to enhance).

BTW: Happy New year to you and yours & to everyone here on LJ's!!!


----------



## Bagtown

paulnwa said:


> *Tilt Indicator Redesign*
> 
> As shown below, the *Tilt Angle Indicator *furnished with the *Model R4511* was typical of most tablesaws - a sheet metal pointer secured to the arbor tilt mechanism.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pointers are somewhat fragile and easily bumped out of alignment. This one was bent when I received the saw, and you can see from the worn off paint that I didn't do a very good job of straightening it (while on the saw). At best, this type of device provides a very rough indication of actual blade tilt angle. As a result many woodworkers today use more accurate means to set or measure the blade tilt angle, such as drafting triangles, protractors, squares, or digital indicators.
> 
> In searching for a better indicating method, I ran across an idea on the *NC Woodworker* forum (www.ncwoodworker.net) proposed by *Mr. Alan Schaffter*, a very accomplished woodworker from North Carolina. *Mr. Schaffter *is a retired engineer, inventor, and author - perhaps you have seen some of his articles in the *American Woodworker *magazine.
> 
> *Mr. Schaffter *proposed mounting a *Digital Angle Cube *to replace the stock tilt angle indicator. This modification would provide very accurate *Tilt Angle *measurement and would work with any of the available *Angle Cubes*, such as the *Wixey, IGaging, Beall*, etc. Based upon his idea, I decided to develop a design to include this feature on my *Model 4511*.
> 
> To that end, I designed a new mounting arrangement to replace the original sheet metal pointer. Because the mounting screw for the indicator was over 3 inches *inside *the saw cabinet, the new mounting bracket needed to be rigid and sturdy to carry the extra weight of the angle cube and the mounting arm. In addition, because I wanted the digital display to be outside of the periphery of the *Elevation Handwheel*, so that the reading would be visible at any angle, the increased the moment of the cantilevered mounting arm further increased the need for good rigidity.
> 
> The photos below show the front and rear views of the new *Tilt Indicator *mounting arm and bracket. The mounting arm is a piece of ½" Baltic Birch plywood, long enough to reach outside the *Elevation Handwheel*. The bracket is a three piece Z-shaped assembly, patterned after the original sheet metal device. Since I don't have any welding capability, screws were used to attach the bracket components. A steel sheet metal construction *Angle Clip *was used as a base for the *Angle Cube *attachment. The pointer was made from a brass screw hook and mounted at the correct angle to match the *Tilt Angle Scale* on the front panel of the saw. The new pointer was included in the design to give a method of rough indication when making a large tilt angle change. This helps offset the time delay inherent in the digital display before it will display a new reading.
> 
> In addition to building the new *Tilt Angle Indicator* mounting, I had to square off and slightly extend the right hand end of the curved slot in the front panel. This was necessary to accommodate the extra thickness of the new Z-bracket.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before installing the *Angle Cube *on the new mounting bracket, I first checked the *actual blade angle*, with the *Tilt Mechanism *rotated against the built in reference stop. This procedure is very simple as shown in the photos below. The left hand photo shows the *Angle Cube zeroed* to the saw table to provide the reference point. The right hand photo shows that the *Angle Cube * attached to the saw blade does indeed indicate that the blade is *exactly **90º* to the saw table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The following photo shows the new *Tilt Angle *mounting assembly in place on the saw with the *Angle Cube * installed. Integral rare earth magnets in the case of the *Angle Cube *hold the device in place on the *Angle Clip*. With the blade vertical, as verified in the previous test, the *Angle Cube *has been *zeroed *again *while on the bracket*, to provide a vertical blade angle reference. Any movement of the blade from the vertical position will be indicated on the *Angle Cube *, in spite of the fact that the *Angle Cube *is not mounted in the horizontal position.
> 
> You will notice that the *Angle Cube *I use is one made by *IGaging*. I also have another *Angle Cube *made by *Wixey*. I prefer the *IGaging *model because it uses a single standard 9VDC battery, which seems to provide better battery life-as it should since it has a much higher mA capacity than the button cell in the *Wixey*. Either of these models or similar ones marketed by *Beall *and others will work just as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As shown in the following photo I checked the 45º blade angle position by turning my new hand dandy *Front Mounted Tilt Handweel* until the *Angle Cube *display indicated *exactly **45º*. Altho I could have, I didn't set the 45º stop screw under the table at that point. I prefer to ease up on the end point instead of bumping up against a hard end point to minimize the stress on the *Tilt *mechanism.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As shown in the photos below, I verified the actual *45º *blade position in the same way I verified the vertical position. The left hand photo shows the *Angle Cube zeroed* to the saw table to provide the reference point. The right hand photo shows that the *Angle Cube *attached to the saw blade does indeed indicate that the blade is *exactly **45º *to the saw table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Usage Note*: If the *Angle Cube* display turns *Off *while the blade is tilted, it may be necessary to return the blade to the vertical position, turn it back *On * and *zero *the display with the *Angle Cube* on its bracket. *Angle Cubes *are designed to save battery life by automatically shutting off the display after a fixed idle interval.
> 
> One of the nice features of using an *Angle Cube *for the *Tilt Angle Indicator *is that it can be easily removed from the bracket to use for other purposes, such as setting accurate miter gage angles, measuring angles between adjacent pieces in a project, etc. Also, having the *Angle Cube *stored on its mounting bracket in under the saw overhang protects the device from being bumped into or dropped on the floor.
> 
> Thanks again to *Mr. Alan Schaffter *for his original idea.
> 
> Well, it looks like we have come to the end of this chapter. Please come back again-there's at least one more chapter coming.
> 
> Please feel free to offer comments or constructive criticism. All questions will be answered.


Damn.
That's impressive.

Mike


----------



## NormG

paulnwa said:


> *Tilt Indicator Redesign*
> 
> As shown below, the *Tilt Angle Indicator *furnished with the *Model R4511* was typical of most tablesaws - a sheet metal pointer secured to the arbor tilt mechanism.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pointers are somewhat fragile and easily bumped out of alignment. This one was bent when I received the saw, and you can see from the worn off paint that I didn't do a very good job of straightening it (while on the saw). At best, this type of device provides a very rough indication of actual blade tilt angle. As a result many woodworkers today use more accurate means to set or measure the blade tilt angle, such as drafting triangles, protractors, squares, or digital indicators.
> 
> In searching for a better indicating method, I ran across an idea on the *NC Woodworker* forum (www.ncwoodworker.net) proposed by *Mr. Alan Schaffter*, a very accomplished woodworker from North Carolina. *Mr. Schaffter *is a retired engineer, inventor, and author - perhaps you have seen some of his articles in the *American Woodworker *magazine.
> 
> *Mr. Schaffter *proposed mounting a *Digital Angle Cube *to replace the stock tilt angle indicator. This modification would provide very accurate *Tilt Angle *measurement and would work with any of the available *Angle Cubes*, such as the *Wixey, IGaging, Beall*, etc. Based upon his idea, I decided to develop a design to include this feature on my *Model 4511*.
> 
> To that end, I designed a new mounting arrangement to replace the original sheet metal pointer. Because the mounting screw for the indicator was over 3 inches *inside *the saw cabinet, the new mounting bracket needed to be rigid and sturdy to carry the extra weight of the angle cube and the mounting arm. In addition, because I wanted the digital display to be outside of the periphery of the *Elevation Handwheel*, so that the reading would be visible at any angle, the increased the moment of the cantilevered mounting arm further increased the need for good rigidity.
> 
> The photos below show the front and rear views of the new *Tilt Indicator *mounting arm and bracket. The mounting arm is a piece of ½" Baltic Birch plywood, long enough to reach outside the *Elevation Handwheel*. The bracket is a three piece Z-shaped assembly, patterned after the original sheet metal device. Since I don't have any welding capability, screws were used to attach the bracket components. A steel sheet metal construction *Angle Clip *was used as a base for the *Angle Cube *attachment. The pointer was made from a brass screw hook and mounted at the correct angle to match the *Tilt Angle Scale* on the front panel of the saw. The new pointer was included in the design to give a method of rough indication when making a large tilt angle change. This helps offset the time delay inherent in the digital display before it will display a new reading.
> 
> In addition to building the new *Tilt Angle Indicator* mounting, I had to square off and slightly extend the right hand end of the curved slot in the front panel. This was necessary to accommodate the extra thickness of the new Z-bracket.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before installing the *Angle Cube *on the new mounting bracket, I first checked the *actual blade angle*, with the *Tilt Mechanism *rotated against the built in reference stop. This procedure is very simple as shown in the photos below. The left hand photo shows the *Angle Cube zeroed* to the saw table to provide the reference point. The right hand photo shows that the *Angle Cube * attached to the saw blade does indeed indicate that the blade is *exactly **90º* to the saw table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The following photo shows the new *Tilt Angle *mounting assembly in place on the saw with the *Angle Cube * installed. Integral rare earth magnets in the case of the *Angle Cube *hold the device in place on the *Angle Clip*. With the blade vertical, as verified in the previous test, the *Angle Cube *has been *zeroed *again *while on the bracket*, to provide a vertical blade angle reference. Any movement of the blade from the vertical position will be indicated on the *Angle Cube *, in spite of the fact that the *Angle Cube *is not mounted in the horizontal position.
> 
> You will notice that the *Angle Cube *I use is one made by *IGaging*. I also have another *Angle Cube *made by *Wixey*. I prefer the *IGaging *model because it uses a single standard 9VDC battery, which seems to provide better battery life-as it should since it has a much higher mA capacity than the button cell in the *Wixey*. Either of these models or similar ones marketed by *Beall *and others will work just as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As shown in the following photo I checked the 45º blade angle position by turning my new hand dandy *Front Mounted Tilt Handweel* until the *Angle Cube *display indicated *exactly **45º*. Altho I could have, I didn't set the 45º stop screw under the table at that point. I prefer to ease up on the end point instead of bumping up against a hard end point to minimize the stress on the *Tilt *mechanism.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As shown in the photos below, I verified the actual *45º *blade position in the same way I verified the vertical position. The left hand photo shows the *Angle Cube zeroed* to the saw table to provide the reference point. The right hand photo shows that the *Angle Cube *attached to the saw blade does indeed indicate that the blade is *exactly **45º *to the saw table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Usage Note*: If the *Angle Cube* display turns *Off *while the blade is tilted, it may be necessary to return the blade to the vertical position, turn it back *On * and *zero *the display with the *Angle Cube* on its bracket. *Angle Cubes *are designed to save battery life by automatically shutting off the display after a fixed idle interval.
> 
> One of the nice features of using an *Angle Cube *for the *Tilt Angle Indicator *is that it can be easily removed from the bracket to use for other purposes, such as setting accurate miter gage angles, measuring angles between adjacent pieces in a project, etc. Also, having the *Angle Cube *stored on its mounting bracket in under the saw overhang protects the device from being bumped into or dropped on the floor.
> 
> Thanks again to *Mr. Alan Schaffter *for his original idea.
> 
> Well, it looks like we have come to the end of this chapter. Please come back again-there's at least one more chapter coming.
> 
> Please feel free to offer comments or constructive criticism. All questions will be answered.


Great idea for the bracket. I use a Wixey to set my angles now


----------



## AlaninlittleWash

paulnwa said:


> *Tilt Indicator Redesign*
> 
> As shown below, the *Tilt Angle Indicator *furnished with the *Model R4511* was typical of most tablesaws - a sheet metal pointer secured to the arbor tilt mechanism.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pointers are somewhat fragile and easily bumped out of alignment. This one was bent when I received the saw, and you can see from the worn off paint that I didn't do a very good job of straightening it (while on the saw). At best, this type of device provides a very rough indication of actual blade tilt angle. As a result many woodworkers today use more accurate means to set or measure the blade tilt angle, such as drafting triangles, protractors, squares, or digital indicators.
> 
> In searching for a better indicating method, I ran across an idea on the *NC Woodworker* forum (www.ncwoodworker.net) proposed by *Mr. Alan Schaffter*, a very accomplished woodworker from North Carolina. *Mr. Schaffter *is a retired engineer, inventor, and author - perhaps you have seen some of his articles in the *American Woodworker *magazine.
> 
> *Mr. Schaffter *proposed mounting a *Digital Angle Cube *to replace the stock tilt angle indicator. This modification would provide very accurate *Tilt Angle *measurement and would work with any of the available *Angle Cubes*, such as the *Wixey, IGaging, Beall*, etc. Based upon his idea, I decided to develop a design to include this feature on my *Model 4511*.
> 
> To that end, I designed a new mounting arrangement to replace the original sheet metal pointer. Because the mounting screw for the indicator was over 3 inches *inside *the saw cabinet, the new mounting bracket needed to be rigid and sturdy to carry the extra weight of the angle cube and the mounting arm. In addition, because I wanted the digital display to be outside of the periphery of the *Elevation Handwheel*, so that the reading would be visible at any angle, the increased the moment of the cantilevered mounting arm further increased the need for good rigidity.
> 
> The photos below show the front and rear views of the new *Tilt Indicator *mounting arm and bracket. The mounting arm is a piece of ½" Baltic Birch plywood, long enough to reach outside the *Elevation Handwheel*. The bracket is a three piece Z-shaped assembly, patterned after the original sheet metal device. Since I don't have any welding capability, screws were used to attach the bracket components. A steel sheet metal construction *Angle Clip *was used as a base for the *Angle Cube *attachment. The pointer was made from a brass screw hook and mounted at the correct angle to match the *Tilt Angle Scale* on the front panel of the saw. The new pointer was included in the design to give a method of rough indication when making a large tilt angle change. This helps offset the time delay inherent in the digital display before it will display a new reading.
> 
> In addition to building the new *Tilt Angle Indicator* mounting, I had to square off and slightly extend the right hand end of the curved slot in the front panel. This was necessary to accommodate the extra thickness of the new Z-bracket.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before installing the *Angle Cube *on the new mounting bracket, I first checked the *actual blade angle*, with the *Tilt Mechanism *rotated against the built in reference stop. This procedure is very simple as shown in the photos below. The left hand photo shows the *Angle Cube zeroed* to the saw table to provide the reference point. The right hand photo shows that the *Angle Cube * attached to the saw blade does indeed indicate that the blade is *exactly **90º* to the saw table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The following photo shows the new *Tilt Angle *mounting assembly in place on the saw with the *Angle Cube * installed. Integral rare earth magnets in the case of the *Angle Cube *hold the device in place on the *Angle Clip*. With the blade vertical, as verified in the previous test, the *Angle Cube *has been *zeroed *again *while on the bracket*, to provide a vertical blade angle reference. Any movement of the blade from the vertical position will be indicated on the *Angle Cube *, in spite of the fact that the *Angle Cube *is not mounted in the horizontal position.
> 
> You will notice that the *Angle Cube *I use is one made by *IGaging*. I also have another *Angle Cube *made by *Wixey*. I prefer the *IGaging *model because it uses a single standard 9VDC battery, which seems to provide better battery life-as it should since it has a much higher mA capacity than the button cell in the *Wixey*. Either of these models or similar ones marketed by *Beall *and others will work just as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As shown in the following photo I checked the 45º blade angle position by turning my new hand dandy *Front Mounted Tilt Handweel* until the *Angle Cube *display indicated *exactly **45º*. Altho I could have, I didn't set the 45º stop screw under the table at that point. I prefer to ease up on the end point instead of bumping up against a hard end point to minimize the stress on the *Tilt *mechanism.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As shown in the photos below, I verified the actual *45º *blade position in the same way I verified the vertical position. The left hand photo shows the *Angle Cube zeroed* to the saw table to provide the reference point. The right hand photo shows that the *Angle Cube *attached to the saw blade does indeed indicate that the blade is *exactly **45º *to the saw table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Usage Note*: If the *Angle Cube* display turns *Off *while the blade is tilted, it may be necessary to return the blade to the vertical position, turn it back *On * and *zero *the display with the *Angle Cube* on its bracket. *Angle Cubes *are designed to save battery life by automatically shutting off the display after a fixed idle interval.
> 
> One of the nice features of using an *Angle Cube *for the *Tilt Angle Indicator *is that it can be easily removed from the bracket to use for other purposes, such as setting accurate miter gage angles, measuring angles between adjacent pieces in a project, etc. Also, having the *Angle Cube *stored on its mounting bracket in under the saw overhang protects the device from being bumped into or dropped on the floor.
> 
> Thanks again to *Mr. Alan Schaffter *for his original idea.
> 
> Well, it looks like we have come to the end of this chapter. Please come back again-there's at least one more chapter coming.
> 
> Please feel free to offer comments or constructive criticism. All questions will be answered.


Paul did a super job documenting and incorporating my idea on his saw!! Well done!!!

I would like to offer some additional info. The new Wixey Angle Gauge uses AAA batteries with a projected life of *TWO YEARS* and while the display may turn off automatically, the circuitry stays energized and maintains calibration- something to think about.



















And for those whose brains are racing- yup, about the same time I came up with a similar but even simpler installation for my sliding compound mitersaw. The head of the saw must horizontal to read the gauge and set the tilt, but other than that it works great- *MUCH* easier to read and set the blade tilt with the gauge than trying to see, read, and use the tiny analog scale at the back of the saw!! I mounted a small steel strip just behind the handle using an existing cable tie screw but double stick tape would probably work also.


----------



## paulnwa

paulnwa said:


> *Tilt Indicator Redesign*
> 
> As shown below, the *Tilt Angle Indicator *furnished with the *Model R4511* was typical of most tablesaws - a sheet metal pointer secured to the arbor tilt mechanism.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pointers are somewhat fragile and easily bumped out of alignment. This one was bent when I received the saw, and you can see from the worn off paint that I didn't do a very good job of straightening it (while on the saw). At best, this type of device provides a very rough indication of actual blade tilt angle. As a result many woodworkers today use more accurate means to set or measure the blade tilt angle, such as drafting triangles, protractors, squares, or digital indicators.
> 
> In searching for a better indicating method, I ran across an idea on the *NC Woodworker* forum (www.ncwoodworker.net) proposed by *Mr. Alan Schaffter*, a very accomplished woodworker from North Carolina. *Mr. Schaffter *is a retired engineer, inventor, and author - perhaps you have seen some of his articles in the *American Woodworker *magazine.
> 
> *Mr. Schaffter *proposed mounting a *Digital Angle Cube *to replace the stock tilt angle indicator. This modification would provide very accurate *Tilt Angle *measurement and would work with any of the available *Angle Cubes*, such as the *Wixey, IGaging, Beall*, etc. Based upon his idea, I decided to develop a design to include this feature on my *Model 4511*.
> 
> To that end, I designed a new mounting arrangement to replace the original sheet metal pointer. Because the mounting screw for the indicator was over 3 inches *inside *the saw cabinet, the new mounting bracket needed to be rigid and sturdy to carry the extra weight of the angle cube and the mounting arm. In addition, because I wanted the digital display to be outside of the periphery of the *Elevation Handwheel*, so that the reading would be visible at any angle, the increased the moment of the cantilevered mounting arm further increased the need for good rigidity.
> 
> The photos below show the front and rear views of the new *Tilt Indicator *mounting arm and bracket. The mounting arm is a piece of ½" Baltic Birch plywood, long enough to reach outside the *Elevation Handwheel*. The bracket is a three piece Z-shaped assembly, patterned after the original sheet metal device. Since I don't have any welding capability, screws were used to attach the bracket components. A steel sheet metal construction *Angle Clip *was used as a base for the *Angle Cube *attachment. The pointer was made from a brass screw hook and mounted at the correct angle to match the *Tilt Angle Scale* on the front panel of the saw. The new pointer was included in the design to give a method of rough indication when making a large tilt angle change. This helps offset the time delay inherent in the digital display before it will display a new reading.
> 
> In addition to building the new *Tilt Angle Indicator* mounting, I had to square off and slightly extend the right hand end of the curved slot in the front panel. This was necessary to accommodate the extra thickness of the new Z-bracket.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before installing the *Angle Cube *on the new mounting bracket, I first checked the *actual blade angle*, with the *Tilt Mechanism *rotated against the built in reference stop. This procedure is very simple as shown in the photos below. The left hand photo shows the *Angle Cube zeroed* to the saw table to provide the reference point. The right hand photo shows that the *Angle Cube * attached to the saw blade does indeed indicate that the blade is *exactly **90º* to the saw table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The following photo shows the new *Tilt Angle *mounting assembly in place on the saw with the *Angle Cube * installed. Integral rare earth magnets in the case of the *Angle Cube *hold the device in place on the *Angle Clip*. With the blade vertical, as verified in the previous test, the *Angle Cube *has been *zeroed *again *while on the bracket*, to provide a vertical blade angle reference. Any movement of the blade from the vertical position will be indicated on the *Angle Cube *, in spite of the fact that the *Angle Cube *is not mounted in the horizontal position.
> 
> You will notice that the *Angle Cube *I use is one made by *IGaging*. I also have another *Angle Cube *made by *Wixey*. I prefer the *IGaging *model because it uses a single standard 9VDC battery, which seems to provide better battery life-as it should since it has a much higher mA capacity than the button cell in the *Wixey*. Either of these models or similar ones marketed by *Beall *and others will work just as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As shown in the following photo I checked the 45º blade angle position by turning my new hand dandy *Front Mounted Tilt Handweel* until the *Angle Cube *display indicated *exactly **45º*. Altho I could have, I didn't set the 45º stop screw under the table at that point. I prefer to ease up on the end point instead of bumping up against a hard end point to minimize the stress on the *Tilt *mechanism.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As shown in the photos below, I verified the actual *45º *blade position in the same way I verified the vertical position. The left hand photo shows the *Angle Cube zeroed* to the saw table to provide the reference point. The right hand photo shows that the *Angle Cube *attached to the saw blade does indeed indicate that the blade is *exactly **45º *to the saw table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Usage Note*: If the *Angle Cube* display turns *Off *while the blade is tilted, it may be necessary to return the blade to the vertical position, turn it back *On * and *zero *the display with the *Angle Cube* on its bracket. *Angle Cubes *are designed to save battery life by automatically shutting off the display after a fixed idle interval.
> 
> One of the nice features of using an *Angle Cube *for the *Tilt Angle Indicator *is that it can be easily removed from the bracket to use for other purposes, such as setting accurate miter gage angles, measuring angles between adjacent pieces in a project, etc. Also, having the *Angle Cube *stored on its mounting bracket in under the saw overhang protects the device from being bumped into or dropped on the floor.
> 
> Thanks again to *Mr. Alan Schaffter *for his original idea.
> 
> Well, it looks like we have come to the end of this chapter. Please come back again-there's at least one more chapter coming.
> 
> Please feel free to offer comments or constructive criticism. All questions will be answered.


Thanks, *Alan*, for your encouraging words.

And thank you for adding the info on the updated Wixey angle cube( WR365, $50). It looks like the new design is a great improvement over the original, what with the AA batteries instead of the button cell, the tilted display, and the operating buttons on top, as well as its improved leveling features. I considered buying one of them when you first mentioned them in a previous post, but since I already had two functioning models, I couldn't justify the expenditure. That said, if I didn't have one, I would certainly give this new model a hard look. Somehow, I suspect that there are some "AlaninLittleWashington" influences in the improved design…... 

Also, thanks for the additional potential application info for use on a miter saw. Great idea, as usual! Sure isn't any moss on certain NC Woodworkers….....!!


----------



## paulnwa

*The Final Upgrades*

This blog chapter discusses the final upgrades I made to my *Model R4511* tablesaw.

*Upgrading the Blade Insert*

As with most tablesaws, the stock blade insert is a metal die casting with a wide slot to accommodate both vertical and bevel cutting. However, the wide slot does not provide adequate support of the material, particularly when cross cutting. The lack of material support adjacent to the cut is especially noticeable when cross cutting hardwood plywood, which frequently has very thin face veneers of brittle materials, resulting in chipping and tearout of the face plys along the cut surface.

This photo shows the metal blade insert that was furnished with the *Model R4511*.










A common solution to the tearout problem is the use of a *Zero Clearance Insert (ZCI), *which has a blade slot which exactly matches the particular saw blade being used. Many of the *ZCI's *in use today are shop made from a variety of materials, including plywood, MDF, hardboard, solid hardwood, phenolic, Corian, and others.

A *ZCI *is usually made by using the original stock blade insert as a pattern to establish a periphery which will match the opening in the saw table top. Frequently, woodworkers fabricate a number of *ZCI's*, dedicating each one to a particular blade size. *ZCI's* can also be made for specialized cutters like dado and box cutter sets.

In many cases, it is possible to use the same *ZCI *for two different blades by flipping the insert end-for-end and putting the second blade slot on the other side of the insert, thereby saving insert material ( which might be expensive or not commonly available).

The photo below shows a *ZCI *I made for my *Model 4511 *from ½ " sheet phenolic material I was able to obtain from fellow LJer *noweyrey1*. Altho many folks use a flush trim router bit to size their ZCI blanks to the original insert, this one was cut to size on the tablesaw, including the corner chamfers, for convenience, since I don't have my router table built yet. The corner radii on the original insert are fairly small, so it was more expedient to just use chamfers instead. There is a *#10-24 set screw* near each corner of the *ZCI *to permit leveling to the table top.










You sharp-eyed readers will note that the blade slot in the *ZCI *does *not *exit the end of the insert. Tho I can't recommend this practice to you, I prefer *not *to use the guard/splitter furnished with the saw. In my opinion, this device obscures my view of the blade, making a more unsafe condition than omitting the device and leaving the blade exposed to view. Also, although this saw will accommodate an aftermarket *riving knife*, I have not invested in one or felt the need to fabricate one at this time - although that is something I might consider later.

*Miter Gage Upgrade*

The stock *Ridgid Miter Gage *is a well-made unit with a cast aluminum head and steel guide bar. Adjustable stops are furnished at standard bevel angles. The guide bar also has four set screws to adjust the fit of the bar to the miter gage table slot. After removing the T-bar, this miter gage could probably be used on my bandsaw.










I chose to replace the stock miter gage with an *Incra V27*, which I was able to purchase at a good sale price some time ago. I chose this unit mostly for its absolute settable accuracy in *5º* increments, due to the use of precision laser cut detents in the outer periphery. Since this unit was first marketed, there are newer ones (at higher prices) which are very popular with woodworkers, that have *1º *increment detents. This unit employs adjustable plastic washers to improve the fit of the bar to the miter slots. However, I have found that the abrasive surface of the sides of the miter slots in the granite top tend to cause excessive wear of the plastic washers.










*Power Switch Upgrade*

The stock power switch, shown below, worked well. It is a flip toggle type which is rated for both *110VAC *and *220VAC*. Altho I chose to replace it on my *Model R4511*, I think I will use it to replace the pushbutton switch that came on my *Grizzly G0555X *bandsaw, which seems to have a hard to operate pushbutton mechanism.










I chose to replace the stock *Power Switch *with the *Grizzly Model H8243, Paddle Type Pushbutton Switch *shown below because I was used to using a paddle type switch on my previous *General Model 350 *cabinet saw. The large paddle makes it easier to turn off the saw with a knee in the event of an emergency or a situation in which both hands are required to secure the material for the cut being made. This change also required changing the switch box to accommodate the new switch.










*Input Voltage Conversion*

The *1 1/2HP* motor on the *Model 4511 *came from the factory wired for *120VAC*. The motor nameplate rating lists the current draw as *13A at 120VAC* and *6.7A at 240VAC*.

Altho the saw ran fine on *120VAC*, and I was only loading the circuit to about a maximum of *65%* of the recommended *80%* circuit capacity, I did not like loading the *120V/20A *circuit I was using to that level. Since I had provided multiple *240VAC *circuits when I built the shop, I decided to switch the motor over to a dedicated circuit at the higher input voltage.

This changeover does not save any money, contrary to many of the misguided rumors floating about, because the electric bill is based upon the number of *KWH *used. Doubling the input voltage usually produces a corresponding reduction of around 50% in the amperage required. The main benefit is balancing the amperage draw across both sides of the incoming line, with each line only drawing half of the current. So the bottom line is that instead of one side of the line on a *120VAC *circuit drawing a full *13A*, each side of a *240VAC *circuit is only drawing about *6.5A*. In addition to changing the motor wiring connections, I did have to change the motor plug to a *NEMA 6-20 *plug to accommodate the *240VAC *circuit receptacle.

The one change that I did notice after changing the input voltage to *240VAC *was that the motor spins up to full operating speed almost instantly -noticeably faster than when it was running on *120VAC*, even tho it didn't seem to be especially slow before.

Well folks, this chapter ends the discussion of the modifications I made to my beloved *Model R4511*. I hope the information in this blog has been not only interesting, but useful to some of you, especially to fellow owners of this marvelous machine. If nothing else, it has served to document this journey for me, so that I might have it to share with other woodworkers in the future. I do plan to post this project here on LJ, as well as some of the other woodworking forums with a link back to this blog.

That said, please return one more time for ………………*The Unveiling - Before and After*…………….!
'Til then, I wish all of you a Happy New Year! May you be blessed with good health, prosperity, a safe time in your shops, and maybe some new toys!


----------



## DIYaholic

paulnwa said:


> *The Final Upgrades*
> 
> This blog chapter discusses the final upgrades I made to my *Model R4511* tablesaw.
> 
> *Upgrading the Blade Insert*
> 
> As with most tablesaws, the stock blade insert is a metal die casting with a wide slot to accommodate both vertical and bevel cutting. However, the wide slot does not provide adequate support of the material, particularly when cross cutting. The lack of material support adjacent to the cut is especially noticeable when cross cutting hardwood plywood, which frequently has very thin face veneers of brittle materials, resulting in chipping and tearout of the face plys along the cut surface.
> 
> This photo shows the metal blade insert that was furnished with the *Model R4511*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A common solution to the tearout problem is the use of a *Zero Clearance Insert (ZCI), *which has a blade slot which exactly matches the particular saw blade being used. Many of the *ZCI's *in use today are shop made from a variety of materials, including plywood, MDF, hardboard, solid hardwood, phenolic, Corian, and others.
> 
> A *ZCI *is usually made by using the original stock blade insert as a pattern to establish a periphery which will match the opening in the saw table top. Frequently, woodworkers fabricate a number of *ZCI's*, dedicating each one to a particular blade size. *ZCI's* can also be made for specialized cutters like dado and box cutter sets.
> 
> In many cases, it is possible to use the same *ZCI *for two different blades by flipping the insert end-for-end and putting the second blade slot on the other side of the insert, thereby saving insert material ( which might be expensive or not commonly available).
> 
> The photo below shows a *ZCI *I made for my *Model 4511 *from ½ " sheet phenolic material I was able to obtain from fellow LJer *noweyrey1*. Altho many folks use a flush trim router bit to size their ZCI blanks to the original insert, this one was cut to size on the tablesaw, including the corner chamfers, for convenience, since I don't have my router table built yet. The corner radii on the original insert are fairly small, so it was more expedient to just use chamfers instead. There is a *#10-24 set screw* near each corner of the *ZCI *to permit leveling to the table top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You sharp-eyed readers will note that the blade slot in the *ZCI *does *not *exit the end of the insert. Tho I can't recommend this practice to you, I prefer *not *to use the guard/splitter furnished with the saw. In my opinion, this device obscures my view of the blade, making a more unsafe condition than omitting the device and leaving the blade exposed to view. Also, although this saw will accommodate an aftermarket *riving knife*, I have not invested in one or felt the need to fabricate one at this time - although that is something I might consider later.
> 
> *Miter Gage Upgrade*
> 
> The stock *Ridgid Miter Gage *is a well-made unit with a cast aluminum head and steel guide bar. Adjustable stops are furnished at standard bevel angles. The guide bar also has four set screws to adjust the fit of the bar to the miter gage table slot. After removing the T-bar, this miter gage could probably be used on my bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I chose to replace the stock miter gage with an *Incra V27*, which I was able to purchase at a good sale price some time ago. I chose this unit mostly for its absolute settable accuracy in *5º* increments, due to the use of precision laser cut detents in the outer periphery. Since this unit was first marketed, there are newer ones (at higher prices) which are very popular with woodworkers, that have *1º *increment detents. This unit employs adjustable plastic washers to improve the fit of the bar to the miter slots. However, I have found that the abrasive surface of the sides of the miter slots in the granite top tend to cause excessive wear of the plastic washers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Power Switch Upgrade*
> 
> The stock power switch, shown below, worked well. It is a flip toggle type which is rated for both *110VAC *and *220VAC*. Altho I chose to replace it on my *Model R4511*, I think I will use it to replace the pushbutton switch that came on my *Grizzly G0555X *bandsaw, which seems to have a hard to operate pushbutton mechanism.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I chose to replace the stock *Power Switch *with the *Grizzly Model H8243, Paddle Type Pushbutton Switch *shown below because I was used to using a paddle type switch on my previous *General Model 350 *cabinet saw. The large paddle makes it easier to turn off the saw with a knee in the event of an emergency or a situation in which both hands are required to secure the material for the cut being made. This change also required changing the switch box to accommodate the new switch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Input Voltage Conversion*
> 
> The *1 1/2HP* motor on the *Model 4511 *came from the factory wired for *120VAC*. The motor nameplate rating lists the current draw as *13A at 120VAC* and *6.7A at 240VAC*.
> 
> Altho the saw ran fine on *120VAC*, and I was only loading the circuit to about a maximum of *65%* of the recommended *80%* circuit capacity, I did not like loading the *120V/20A *circuit I was using to that level. Since I had provided multiple *240VAC *circuits when I built the shop, I decided to switch the motor over to a dedicated circuit at the higher input voltage.
> 
> This changeover does not save any money, contrary to many of the misguided rumors floating about, because the electric bill is based upon the number of *KWH *used. Doubling the input voltage usually produces a corresponding reduction of around 50% in the amperage required. The main benefit is balancing the amperage draw across both sides of the incoming line, with each line only drawing half of the current. So the bottom line is that instead of one side of the line on a *120VAC *circuit drawing a full *13A*, each side of a *240VAC *circuit is only drawing about *6.5A*. In addition to changing the motor wiring connections, I did have to change the motor plug to a *NEMA 6-20 *plug to accommodate the *240VAC *circuit receptacle.
> 
> The one change that I did notice after changing the input voltage to *240VAC *was that the motor spins up to full operating speed almost instantly -noticeably faster than when it was running on *120VAC*, even tho it didn't seem to be especially slow before.
> 
> Well folks, this chapter ends the discussion of the modifications I made to my beloved *Model R4511*. I hope the information in this blog has been not only interesting, but useful to some of you, especially to fellow owners of this marvelous machine. If nothing else, it has served to document this journey for me, so that I might have it to share with other woodworkers in the future. I do plan to post this project here on LJ, as well as some of the other woodworking forums with a link back to this blog.
> 
> That said, please return one more time for ………………*The Unveiling - Before and After*…………….!
> 'Til then, I wish all of you a Happy New Year! May you be blessed with good health, prosperity, a safe time in your shops, and maybe some new toys!


Parting will be such sweet sorrow!

I know these modifications were completed some time ago. I think that in your final chapter *"The Unveiling - Before and After"*, you should include some pictures of completed projects you & this saw are capable of!!!

Happy New Year to you and yours and may you be covered in saw dust to your hearts content!!!


----------



## paulnwa

paulnwa said:


> *The Final Upgrades*
> 
> This blog chapter discusses the final upgrades I made to my *Model R4511* tablesaw.
> 
> *Upgrading the Blade Insert*
> 
> As with most tablesaws, the stock blade insert is a metal die casting with a wide slot to accommodate both vertical and bevel cutting. However, the wide slot does not provide adequate support of the material, particularly when cross cutting. The lack of material support adjacent to the cut is especially noticeable when cross cutting hardwood plywood, which frequently has very thin face veneers of brittle materials, resulting in chipping and tearout of the face plys along the cut surface.
> 
> This photo shows the metal blade insert that was furnished with the *Model R4511*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A common solution to the tearout problem is the use of a *Zero Clearance Insert (ZCI), *which has a blade slot which exactly matches the particular saw blade being used. Many of the *ZCI's *in use today are shop made from a variety of materials, including plywood, MDF, hardboard, solid hardwood, phenolic, Corian, and others.
> 
> A *ZCI *is usually made by using the original stock blade insert as a pattern to establish a periphery which will match the opening in the saw table top. Frequently, woodworkers fabricate a number of *ZCI's*, dedicating each one to a particular blade size. *ZCI's* can also be made for specialized cutters like dado and box cutter sets.
> 
> In many cases, it is possible to use the same *ZCI *for two different blades by flipping the insert end-for-end and putting the second blade slot on the other side of the insert, thereby saving insert material ( which might be expensive or not commonly available).
> 
> The photo below shows a *ZCI *I made for my *Model 4511 *from ½ " sheet phenolic material I was able to obtain from fellow LJer *noweyrey1*. Altho many folks use a flush trim router bit to size their ZCI blanks to the original insert, this one was cut to size on the tablesaw, including the corner chamfers, for convenience, since I don't have my router table built yet. The corner radii on the original insert are fairly small, so it was more expedient to just use chamfers instead. There is a *#10-24 set screw* near each corner of the *ZCI *to permit leveling to the table top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You sharp-eyed readers will note that the blade slot in the *ZCI *does *not *exit the end of the insert. Tho I can't recommend this practice to you, I prefer *not *to use the guard/splitter furnished with the saw. In my opinion, this device obscures my view of the blade, making a more unsafe condition than omitting the device and leaving the blade exposed to view. Also, although this saw will accommodate an aftermarket *riving knife*, I have not invested in one or felt the need to fabricate one at this time - although that is something I might consider later.
> 
> *Miter Gage Upgrade*
> 
> The stock *Ridgid Miter Gage *is a well-made unit with a cast aluminum head and steel guide bar. Adjustable stops are furnished at standard bevel angles. The guide bar also has four set screws to adjust the fit of the bar to the miter gage table slot. After removing the T-bar, this miter gage could probably be used on my bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I chose to replace the stock miter gage with an *Incra V27*, which I was able to purchase at a good sale price some time ago. I chose this unit mostly for its absolute settable accuracy in *5º* increments, due to the use of precision laser cut detents in the outer periphery. Since this unit was first marketed, there are newer ones (at higher prices) which are very popular with woodworkers, that have *1º *increment detents. This unit employs adjustable plastic washers to improve the fit of the bar to the miter slots. However, I have found that the abrasive surface of the sides of the miter slots in the granite top tend to cause excessive wear of the plastic washers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Power Switch Upgrade*
> 
> The stock power switch, shown below, worked well. It is a flip toggle type which is rated for both *110VAC *and *220VAC*. Altho I chose to replace it on my *Model R4511*, I think I will use it to replace the pushbutton switch that came on my *Grizzly G0555X *bandsaw, which seems to have a hard to operate pushbutton mechanism.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I chose to replace the stock *Power Switch *with the *Grizzly Model H8243, Paddle Type Pushbutton Switch *shown below because I was used to using a paddle type switch on my previous *General Model 350 *cabinet saw. The large paddle makes it easier to turn off the saw with a knee in the event of an emergency or a situation in which both hands are required to secure the material for the cut being made. This change also required changing the switch box to accommodate the new switch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Input Voltage Conversion*
> 
> The *1 1/2HP* motor on the *Model 4511 *came from the factory wired for *120VAC*. The motor nameplate rating lists the current draw as *13A at 120VAC* and *6.7A at 240VAC*.
> 
> Altho the saw ran fine on *120VAC*, and I was only loading the circuit to about a maximum of *65%* of the recommended *80%* circuit capacity, I did not like loading the *120V/20A *circuit I was using to that level. Since I had provided multiple *240VAC *circuits when I built the shop, I decided to switch the motor over to a dedicated circuit at the higher input voltage.
> 
> This changeover does not save any money, contrary to many of the misguided rumors floating about, because the electric bill is based upon the number of *KWH *used. Doubling the input voltage usually produces a corresponding reduction of around 50% in the amperage required. The main benefit is balancing the amperage draw across both sides of the incoming line, with each line only drawing half of the current. So the bottom line is that instead of one side of the line on a *120VAC *circuit drawing a full *13A*, each side of a *240VAC *circuit is only drawing about *6.5A*. In addition to changing the motor wiring connections, I did have to change the motor plug to a *NEMA 6-20 *plug to accommodate the *240VAC *circuit receptacle.
> 
> The one change that I did notice after changing the input voltage to *240VAC *was that the motor spins up to full operating speed almost instantly -noticeably faster than when it was running on *120VAC*, even tho it didn't seem to be especially slow before.
> 
> Well folks, this chapter ends the discussion of the modifications I made to my beloved *Model R4511*. I hope the information in this blog has been not only interesting, but useful to some of you, especially to fellow owners of this marvelous machine. If nothing else, it has served to document this journey for me, so that I might have it to share with other woodworkers in the future. I do plan to post this project here on LJ, as well as some of the other woodworking forums with a link back to this blog.
> 
> That said, please return one more time for ………………*The Unveiling - Before and After*…………….!
> 'Til then, I wish all of you a Happy New Year! May you be blessed with good health, prosperity, a safe time in your shops, and maybe some new toys!


Hi Randy,

Well, if you look at *My Projects *at this time, you will only find the *Flip Top Sander/Planer *project and companion *Plans*. That project was a companion to this one and was accomplished *after *I made the modifications to my tablesaw. so I was able to give it an acid test! And thankfully, it passed!!

That said, I am looking forward to getting into making some real projects. And I will certainly post them on the LJ forum.

Thanks for your kind comments and encouragement.


----------



## DIYaholic

paulnwa said:


> *The Final Upgrades*
> 
> This blog chapter discusses the final upgrades I made to my *Model R4511* tablesaw.
> 
> *Upgrading the Blade Insert*
> 
> As with most tablesaws, the stock blade insert is a metal die casting with a wide slot to accommodate both vertical and bevel cutting. However, the wide slot does not provide adequate support of the material, particularly when cross cutting. The lack of material support adjacent to the cut is especially noticeable when cross cutting hardwood plywood, which frequently has very thin face veneers of brittle materials, resulting in chipping and tearout of the face plys along the cut surface.
> 
> This photo shows the metal blade insert that was furnished with the *Model R4511*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A common solution to the tearout problem is the use of a *Zero Clearance Insert (ZCI), *which has a blade slot which exactly matches the particular saw blade being used. Many of the *ZCI's *in use today are shop made from a variety of materials, including plywood, MDF, hardboard, solid hardwood, phenolic, Corian, and others.
> 
> A *ZCI *is usually made by using the original stock blade insert as a pattern to establish a periphery which will match the opening in the saw table top. Frequently, woodworkers fabricate a number of *ZCI's*, dedicating each one to a particular blade size. *ZCI's* can also be made for specialized cutters like dado and box cutter sets.
> 
> In many cases, it is possible to use the same *ZCI *for two different blades by flipping the insert end-for-end and putting the second blade slot on the other side of the insert, thereby saving insert material ( which might be expensive or not commonly available).
> 
> The photo below shows a *ZCI *I made for my *Model 4511 *from ½ " sheet phenolic material I was able to obtain from fellow LJer *noweyrey1*. Altho many folks use a flush trim router bit to size their ZCI blanks to the original insert, this one was cut to size on the tablesaw, including the corner chamfers, for convenience, since I don't have my router table built yet. The corner radii on the original insert are fairly small, so it was more expedient to just use chamfers instead. There is a *#10-24 set screw* near each corner of the *ZCI *to permit leveling to the table top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You sharp-eyed readers will note that the blade slot in the *ZCI *does *not *exit the end of the insert. Tho I can't recommend this practice to you, I prefer *not *to use the guard/splitter furnished with the saw. In my opinion, this device obscures my view of the blade, making a more unsafe condition than omitting the device and leaving the blade exposed to view. Also, although this saw will accommodate an aftermarket *riving knife*, I have not invested in one or felt the need to fabricate one at this time - although that is something I might consider later.
> 
> *Miter Gage Upgrade*
> 
> The stock *Ridgid Miter Gage *is a well-made unit with a cast aluminum head and steel guide bar. Adjustable stops are furnished at standard bevel angles. The guide bar also has four set screws to adjust the fit of the bar to the miter gage table slot. After removing the T-bar, this miter gage could probably be used on my bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I chose to replace the stock miter gage with an *Incra V27*, which I was able to purchase at a good sale price some time ago. I chose this unit mostly for its absolute settable accuracy in *5º* increments, due to the use of precision laser cut detents in the outer periphery. Since this unit was first marketed, there are newer ones (at higher prices) which are very popular with woodworkers, that have *1º *increment detents. This unit employs adjustable plastic washers to improve the fit of the bar to the miter slots. However, I have found that the abrasive surface of the sides of the miter slots in the granite top tend to cause excessive wear of the plastic washers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Power Switch Upgrade*
> 
> The stock power switch, shown below, worked well. It is a flip toggle type which is rated for both *110VAC *and *220VAC*. Altho I chose to replace it on my *Model R4511*, I think I will use it to replace the pushbutton switch that came on my *Grizzly G0555X *bandsaw, which seems to have a hard to operate pushbutton mechanism.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I chose to replace the stock *Power Switch *with the *Grizzly Model H8243, Paddle Type Pushbutton Switch *shown below because I was used to using a paddle type switch on my previous *General Model 350 *cabinet saw. The large paddle makes it easier to turn off the saw with a knee in the event of an emergency or a situation in which both hands are required to secure the material for the cut being made. This change also required changing the switch box to accommodate the new switch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Input Voltage Conversion*
> 
> The *1 1/2HP* motor on the *Model 4511 *came from the factory wired for *120VAC*. The motor nameplate rating lists the current draw as *13A at 120VAC* and *6.7A at 240VAC*.
> 
> Altho the saw ran fine on *120VAC*, and I was only loading the circuit to about a maximum of *65%* of the recommended *80%* circuit capacity, I did not like loading the *120V/20A *circuit I was using to that level. Since I had provided multiple *240VAC *circuits when I built the shop, I decided to switch the motor over to a dedicated circuit at the higher input voltage.
> 
> This changeover does not save any money, contrary to many of the misguided rumors floating about, because the electric bill is based upon the number of *KWH *used. Doubling the input voltage usually produces a corresponding reduction of around 50% in the amperage required. The main benefit is balancing the amperage draw across both sides of the incoming line, with each line only drawing half of the current. So the bottom line is that instead of one side of the line on a *120VAC *circuit drawing a full *13A*, each side of a *240VAC *circuit is only drawing about *6.5A*. In addition to changing the motor wiring connections, I did have to change the motor plug to a *NEMA 6-20 *plug to accommodate the *240VAC *circuit receptacle.
> 
> The one change that I did notice after changing the input voltage to *240VAC *was that the motor spins up to full operating speed almost instantly -noticeably faster than when it was running on *120VAC*, even tho it didn't seem to be especially slow before.
> 
> Well folks, this chapter ends the discussion of the modifications I made to my beloved *Model R4511*. I hope the information in this blog has been not only interesting, but useful to some of you, especially to fellow owners of this marvelous machine. If nothing else, it has served to document this journey for me, so that I might have it to share with other woodworkers in the future. I do plan to post this project here on LJ, as well as some of the other woodworking forums with a link back to this blog.
> 
> That said, please return one more time for ………………*The Unveiling - Before and After*…………….!
> 'Til then, I wish all of you a Happy New Year! May you be blessed with good health, prosperity, a safe time in your shops, and maybe some new toys!


I am sure you are going to relish the time you spend in the shop using your skillfully modified tablesaw. To say it is a reward well deserved is an understatement…..
What are you doing reading these posts…...*Get in the shop and make some saw dust!*


----------



## paulnwa

*The Unveiling -- Before and After*

This final chapter winds up our journey-* Decked Out Ridgid Model R4511 Table Saw*.

*Where I Started*










*The Changes I Made*

Here is the baker's dozen of additions and modifications I made to my *Model R4511 *to transform it from a great tablesaw to an even greater one - and more importantly, into one which fits the constraints of my small shop and my own personal preferences.

• Improved Mobile Base
• Internal Baffling
• Improved Dust Collection
• On-Board Storage
• Rear Extension Table
• Downdraft Side ExtensionTable
• Upgraded Rip Fence
• Relocated Tilt Handwheel
• Digital Tilt Angle Indicator
• Zero Clearance Inserts
• Upgraded Miter Gage
• Upgraded Power Switch
• Conversion to 240VAC Input

*Where I Finished - My Decked Out Model R4511*










Is it okay if I say I'm *really *pleased with the way this project turned out? Dads should be proud of their kids, right………….!!

*Closing Thoughts*

This has been a wonderful, creative, adventure for me. This is the first time I have made major modifications to a piece of woodworking equipment. I am especially pleased that I was able to make significant improvements to a machine that was already well-engineered, to make it better fit *my *needs and preferences.

In retrospect, I can only think of two changes I would make if I were doing it again:

• Make the Rip Fence Rail Support Angle from ¼" steel stock 
• Mount the Mobile Base on 5" diameter casters.

I hope the information I have presented - in a lot of detail, intentionally - will encourage others to reevaluate their equipment and look for ways to modify or adapt it to meet *their *unique situation and personal preferences. How many times have you said, * "Gee, I really like this tool, but I wish this _ feature was different"? * The big picture may look daunting, but if you break it up in little pieces (and maybe those into even smaller pieces) it is probably doable far easier than you can possibly imagine. *Go for it!!*

There are lots of experienced folks here at LJ and other forums like it, who are always ready to offer suggestions and share their experiences. I am retired, so I have a lot of time to putter, and offer "sage advice", whatever that is. If I can help, please don't hesitate to ask. I have made most of the possible mistakes over the years, so maybe I can steer you around some of them…………… 

Thanks for following patiently along with me. I hope to hear some feedback from folks who have used this information to modify their *Model R4511 *or other equipment to better suit *their *preferences. I hope you will post pics of your adventure!

So long- for now……………


----------



## Lance09

paulnwa said:


> *The Unveiling -- Before and After*
> 
> This final chapter winds up our journey-* Decked Out Ridgid Model R4511 Table Saw*.
> 
> *Where I Started*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Changes I Made*
> 
> Here is the baker's dozen of additions and modifications I made to my *Model R4511 *to transform it from a great tablesaw to an even greater one - and more importantly, into one which fits the constraints of my small shop and my own personal preferences.
> 
> • Improved Mobile Base
> • Internal Baffling
> • Improved Dust Collection
> • On-Board Storage
> • Rear Extension Table
> • Downdraft Side ExtensionTable
> • Upgraded Rip Fence
> • Relocated Tilt Handwheel
> • Digital Tilt Angle Indicator
> • Zero Clearance Inserts
> • Upgraded Miter Gage
> • Upgraded Power Switch
> • Conversion to 240VAC Input
> 
> *Where I Finished - My Decked Out Model R4511*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it okay if I say I'm *really *pleased with the way this project turned out? Dads should be proud of their kids, right………….!!
> 
> *Closing Thoughts*
> 
> This has been a wonderful, creative, adventure for me. This is the first time I have made major modifications to a piece of woodworking equipment. I am especially pleased that I was able to make significant improvements to a machine that was already well-engineered, to make it better fit *my *needs and preferences.
> 
> In retrospect, I can only think of two changes I would make if I were doing it again:
> 
> • Make the Rip Fence Rail Support Angle from ¼" steel stock
> • Mount the Mobile Base on 5" diameter casters.
> 
> I hope the information I have presented - in a lot of detail, intentionally - will encourage others to reevaluate their equipment and look for ways to modify or adapt it to meet *their *unique situation and personal preferences. How many times have you said, * "Gee, I really like this tool, but I wish this _ feature was different"? * The big picture may look daunting, but if you break it up in little pieces (and maybe those into even smaller pieces) it is probably doable far easier than you can possibly imagine. *Go for it!!*
> 
> There are lots of experienced folks here at LJ and other forums like it, who are always ready to offer suggestions and share their experiences. I am retired, so I have a lot of time to putter, and offer "sage advice", whatever that is. If I can help, please don't hesitate to ask. I have made most of the possible mistakes over the years, so maybe I can steer you around some of them……………
> 
> Thanks for following patiently along with me. I hope to hear some feedback from folks who have used this information to modify their *Model R4511 *or other equipment to better suit *their *preferences. I hope you will post pics of your adventure!
> 
> So long- for now……………


Blood, sweat, and hopefully not tears in that project, well done!


----------



## doncutlip

paulnwa said:


> *The Unveiling -- Before and After*
> 
> This final chapter winds up our journey-* Decked Out Ridgid Model R4511 Table Saw*.
> 
> *Where I Started*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Changes I Made*
> 
> Here is the baker's dozen of additions and modifications I made to my *Model R4511 *to transform it from a great tablesaw to an even greater one - and more importantly, into one which fits the constraints of my small shop and my own personal preferences.
> 
> • Improved Mobile Base
> • Internal Baffling
> • Improved Dust Collection
> • On-Board Storage
> • Rear Extension Table
> • Downdraft Side ExtensionTable
> • Upgraded Rip Fence
> • Relocated Tilt Handwheel
> • Digital Tilt Angle Indicator
> • Zero Clearance Inserts
> • Upgraded Miter Gage
> • Upgraded Power Switch
> • Conversion to 240VAC Input
> 
> *Where I Finished - My Decked Out Model R4511*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it okay if I say I'm *really *pleased with the way this project turned out? Dads should be proud of their kids, right………….!!
> 
> *Closing Thoughts*
> 
> This has been a wonderful, creative, adventure for me. This is the first time I have made major modifications to a piece of woodworking equipment. I am especially pleased that I was able to make significant improvements to a machine that was already well-engineered, to make it better fit *my *needs and preferences.
> 
> In retrospect, I can only think of two changes I would make if I were doing it again:
> 
> • Make the Rip Fence Rail Support Angle from ¼" steel stock
> • Mount the Mobile Base on 5" diameter casters.
> 
> I hope the information I have presented - in a lot of detail, intentionally - will encourage others to reevaluate their equipment and look for ways to modify or adapt it to meet *their *unique situation and personal preferences. How many times have you said, * "Gee, I really like this tool, but I wish this _ feature was different"? * The big picture may look daunting, but if you break it up in little pieces (and maybe those into even smaller pieces) it is probably doable far easier than you can possibly imagine. *Go for it!!*
> 
> There are lots of experienced folks here at LJ and other forums like it, who are always ready to offer suggestions and share their experiences. I am retired, so I have a lot of time to putter, and offer "sage advice", whatever that is. If I can help, please don't hesitate to ask. I have made most of the possible mistakes over the years, so maybe I can steer you around some of them……………
> 
> Thanks for following patiently along with me. I hope to hear some feedback from folks who have used this information to modify their *Model R4511 *or other equipment to better suit *their *preferences. I hope you will post pics of your adventure!
> 
> So long- for now……………


Wow you really put that saw on steroids!


----------



## DIYaholic

paulnwa said:


> *The Unveiling -- Before and After*
> 
> This final chapter winds up our journey-* Decked Out Ridgid Model R4511 Table Saw*.
> 
> *Where I Started*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Changes I Made*
> 
> Here is the baker's dozen of additions and modifications I made to my *Model R4511 *to transform it from a great tablesaw to an even greater one - and more importantly, into one which fits the constraints of my small shop and my own personal preferences.
> 
> • Improved Mobile Base
> • Internal Baffling
> • Improved Dust Collection
> • On-Board Storage
> • Rear Extension Table
> • Downdraft Side ExtensionTable
> • Upgraded Rip Fence
> • Relocated Tilt Handwheel
> • Digital Tilt Angle Indicator
> • Zero Clearance Inserts
> • Upgraded Miter Gage
> • Upgraded Power Switch
> • Conversion to 240VAC Input
> 
> *Where I Finished - My Decked Out Model R4511*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it okay if I say I'm *really *pleased with the way this project turned out? Dads should be proud of their kids, right………….!!
> 
> *Closing Thoughts*
> 
> This has been a wonderful, creative, adventure for me. This is the first time I have made major modifications to a piece of woodworking equipment. I am especially pleased that I was able to make significant improvements to a machine that was already well-engineered, to make it better fit *my *needs and preferences.
> 
> In retrospect, I can only think of two changes I would make if I were doing it again:
> 
> • Make the Rip Fence Rail Support Angle from ¼" steel stock
> • Mount the Mobile Base on 5" diameter casters.
> 
> I hope the information I have presented - in a lot of detail, intentionally - will encourage others to reevaluate their equipment and look for ways to modify or adapt it to meet *their *unique situation and personal preferences. How many times have you said, * "Gee, I really like this tool, but I wish this _ feature was different"? * The big picture may look daunting, but if you break it up in little pieces (and maybe those into even smaller pieces) it is probably doable far easier than you can possibly imagine. *Go for it!!*
> 
> There are lots of experienced folks here at LJ and other forums like it, who are always ready to offer suggestions and share their experiences. I am retired, so I have a lot of time to putter, and offer "sage advice", whatever that is. If I can help, please don't hesitate to ask. I have made most of the possible mistakes over the years, so maybe I can steer you around some of them……………
> 
> Thanks for following patiently along with me. I hope to hear some feedback from folks who have used this information to modify their *Model R4511 *or other equipment to better suit *their *preferences. I hope you will post pics of your adventure!
> 
> So long- for now……………


Are you sure you don't want to raffle that saw off? I'll take two raffle tickets!!


----------



## deleteme

paulnwa said:


> *The Unveiling -- Before and After*
> 
> This final chapter winds up our journey-* Decked Out Ridgid Model R4511 Table Saw*.
> 
> *Where I Started*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Changes I Made*
> 
> Here is the baker's dozen of additions and modifications I made to my *Model R4511 *to transform it from a great tablesaw to an even greater one - and more importantly, into one which fits the constraints of my small shop and my own personal preferences.
> 
> • Improved Mobile Base
> • Internal Baffling
> • Improved Dust Collection
> • On-Board Storage
> • Rear Extension Table
> • Downdraft Side ExtensionTable
> • Upgraded Rip Fence
> • Relocated Tilt Handwheel
> • Digital Tilt Angle Indicator
> • Zero Clearance Inserts
> • Upgraded Miter Gage
> • Upgraded Power Switch
> • Conversion to 240VAC Input
> 
> *Where I Finished - My Decked Out Model R4511*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it okay if I say I'm *really *pleased with the way this project turned out? Dads should be proud of their kids, right………….!!
> 
> *Closing Thoughts*
> 
> This has been a wonderful, creative, adventure for me. This is the first time I have made major modifications to a piece of woodworking equipment. I am especially pleased that I was able to make significant improvements to a machine that was already well-engineered, to make it better fit *my *needs and preferences.
> 
> In retrospect, I can only think of two changes I would make if I were doing it again:
> 
> • Make the Rip Fence Rail Support Angle from ¼" steel stock
> • Mount the Mobile Base on 5" diameter casters.
> 
> I hope the information I have presented - in a lot of detail, intentionally - will encourage others to reevaluate their equipment and look for ways to modify or adapt it to meet *their *unique situation and personal preferences. How many times have you said, * "Gee, I really like this tool, but I wish this _ feature was different"? * The big picture may look daunting, but if you break it up in little pieces (and maybe those into even smaller pieces) it is probably doable far easier than you can possibly imagine. *Go for it!!*
> 
> There are lots of experienced folks here at LJ and other forums like it, who are always ready to offer suggestions and share their experiences. I am retired, so I have a lot of time to putter, and offer "sage advice", whatever that is. If I can help, please don't hesitate to ask. I have made most of the possible mistakes over the years, so maybe I can steer you around some of them……………
> 
> Thanks for following patiently along with me. I hope to hear some feedback from folks who have used this information to modify their *Model R4511 *or other equipment to better suit *their *preferences. I hope you will post pics of your adventure!
> 
> So long- for now……………


Amazing job Sir! Thanks for the inspiration!


----------



## DMIHOMECENTER

paulnwa said:


> *The Unveiling -- Before and After*
> 
> This final chapter winds up our journey-* Decked Out Ridgid Model R4511 Table Saw*.
> 
> *Where I Started*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Changes I Made*
> 
> Here is the baker's dozen of additions and modifications I made to my *Model R4511 *to transform it from a great tablesaw to an even greater one - and more importantly, into one which fits the constraints of my small shop and my own personal preferences.
> 
> • Improved Mobile Base
> • Internal Baffling
> • Improved Dust Collection
> • On-Board Storage
> • Rear Extension Table
> • Downdraft Side ExtensionTable
> • Upgraded Rip Fence
> • Relocated Tilt Handwheel
> • Digital Tilt Angle Indicator
> • Zero Clearance Inserts
> • Upgraded Miter Gage
> • Upgraded Power Switch
> • Conversion to 240VAC Input
> 
> *Where I Finished - My Decked Out Model R4511*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it okay if I say I'm *really *pleased with the way this project turned out? Dads should be proud of their kids, right………….!!
> 
> *Closing Thoughts*
> 
> This has been a wonderful, creative, adventure for me. This is the first time I have made major modifications to a piece of woodworking equipment. I am especially pleased that I was able to make significant improvements to a machine that was already well-engineered, to make it better fit *my *needs and preferences.
> 
> In retrospect, I can only think of two changes I would make if I were doing it again:
> 
> • Make the Rip Fence Rail Support Angle from ¼" steel stock
> • Mount the Mobile Base on 5" diameter casters.
> 
> I hope the information I have presented - in a lot of detail, intentionally - will encourage others to reevaluate their equipment and look for ways to modify or adapt it to meet *their *unique situation and personal preferences. How many times have you said, * "Gee, I really like this tool, but I wish this _ feature was different"? * The big picture may look daunting, but if you break it up in little pieces (and maybe those into even smaller pieces) it is probably doable far easier than you can possibly imagine. *Go for it!!*
> 
> There are lots of experienced folks here at LJ and other forums like it, who are always ready to offer suggestions and share their experiences. I am retired, so I have a lot of time to putter, and offer "sage advice", whatever that is. If I can help, please don't hesitate to ask. I have made most of the possible mistakes over the years, so maybe I can steer you around some of them……………
> 
> Thanks for following patiently along with me. I hope to hear some feedback from folks who have used this information to modify their *Model R4511 *or other equipment to better suit *their *preferences. I hope you will post pics of your adventure!
> 
> So long- for now……………


You done good !


----------



## paulnwa

paulnwa said:


> *The Unveiling -- Before and After*
> 
> This final chapter winds up our journey-* Decked Out Ridgid Model R4511 Table Saw*.
> 
> *Where I Started*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Changes I Made*
> 
> Here is the baker's dozen of additions and modifications I made to my *Model R4511 *to transform it from a great tablesaw to an even greater one - and more importantly, into one which fits the constraints of my small shop and my own personal preferences.
> 
> • Improved Mobile Base
> • Internal Baffling
> • Improved Dust Collection
> • On-Board Storage
> • Rear Extension Table
> • Downdraft Side ExtensionTable
> • Upgraded Rip Fence
> • Relocated Tilt Handwheel
> • Digital Tilt Angle Indicator
> • Zero Clearance Inserts
> • Upgraded Miter Gage
> • Upgraded Power Switch
> • Conversion to 240VAC Input
> 
> *Where I Finished - My Decked Out Model R4511*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it okay if I say I'm *really *pleased with the way this project turned out? Dads should be proud of their kids, right………….!!
> 
> *Closing Thoughts*
> 
> This has been a wonderful, creative, adventure for me. This is the first time I have made major modifications to a piece of woodworking equipment. I am especially pleased that I was able to make significant improvements to a machine that was already well-engineered, to make it better fit *my *needs and preferences.
> 
> In retrospect, I can only think of two changes I would make if I were doing it again:
> 
> • Make the Rip Fence Rail Support Angle from ¼" steel stock
> • Mount the Mobile Base on 5" diameter casters.
> 
> I hope the information I have presented - in a lot of detail, intentionally - will encourage others to reevaluate their equipment and look for ways to modify or adapt it to meet *their *unique situation and personal preferences. How many times have you said, * "Gee, I really like this tool, but I wish this _ feature was different"? * The big picture may look daunting, but if you break it up in little pieces (and maybe those into even smaller pieces) it is probably doable far easier than you can possibly imagine. *Go for it!!*
> 
> There are lots of experienced folks here at LJ and other forums like it, who are always ready to offer suggestions and share their experiences. I am retired, so I have a lot of time to putter, and offer "sage advice", whatever that is. If I can help, please don't hesitate to ask. I have made most of the possible mistakes over the years, so maybe I can steer you around some of them……………
> 
> Thanks for following patiently along with me. I hope to hear some feedback from folks who have used this information to modify their *Model R4511 *or other equipment to better suit *their *preferences. I hope you will post pics of your adventure!
> 
> So long- for now……………


Hi Folks,

Lance-Thanks, no tears-just a fun adventure!

doncutlip -Well, not really, but boy it sure is a lot more fun to use!

Randy-Sorry, I just ran out of raffle tickets! And you wanted *two*!!??

hybridhelix-Thanks, Paul. I hope some of you will get inspired while I enjoy my "*new*" saw….......


----------



## mprzybylski

paulnwa said:


> *The Unveiling -- Before and After*
> 
> This final chapter winds up our journey-* Decked Out Ridgid Model R4511 Table Saw*.
> 
> *Where I Started*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Changes I Made*
> 
> Here is the baker's dozen of additions and modifications I made to my *Model R4511 *to transform it from a great tablesaw to an even greater one - and more importantly, into one which fits the constraints of my small shop and my own personal preferences.
> 
> • Improved Mobile Base
> • Internal Baffling
> • Improved Dust Collection
> • On-Board Storage
> • Rear Extension Table
> • Downdraft Side ExtensionTable
> • Upgraded Rip Fence
> • Relocated Tilt Handwheel
> • Digital Tilt Angle Indicator
> • Zero Clearance Inserts
> • Upgraded Miter Gage
> • Upgraded Power Switch
> • Conversion to 240VAC Input
> 
> *Where I Finished - My Decked Out Model R4511*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it okay if I say I'm *really *pleased with the way this project turned out? Dads should be proud of their kids, right………….!!
> 
> *Closing Thoughts*
> 
> This has been a wonderful, creative, adventure for me. This is the first time I have made major modifications to a piece of woodworking equipment. I am especially pleased that I was able to make significant improvements to a machine that was already well-engineered, to make it better fit *my *needs and preferences.
> 
> In retrospect, I can only think of two changes I would make if I were doing it again:
> 
> • Make the Rip Fence Rail Support Angle from ¼" steel stock
> • Mount the Mobile Base on 5" diameter casters.
> 
> I hope the information I have presented - in a lot of detail, intentionally - will encourage others to reevaluate their equipment and look for ways to modify or adapt it to meet *their *unique situation and personal preferences. How many times have you said, * "Gee, I really like this tool, but I wish this _ feature was different"? * The big picture may look daunting, but if you break it up in little pieces (and maybe those into even smaller pieces) it is probably doable far easier than you can possibly imagine. *Go for it!!*
> 
> There are lots of experienced folks here at LJ and other forums like it, who are always ready to offer suggestions and share their experiences. I am retired, so I have a lot of time to putter, and offer "sage advice", whatever that is. If I can help, please don't hesitate to ask. I have made most of the possible mistakes over the years, so maybe I can steer you around some of them……………
> 
> Thanks for following patiently along with me. I hope to hear some feedback from folks who have used this information to modify their *Model R4511 *or other equipment to better suit *their *preferences. I hope you will post pics of your adventure!
> 
> So long- for now……………


Paul,
Amazing work! I have a question about (of all things) your ZCI. What are you going to do about the riving knife? I don't see an opening for it in your insert and I'm about to make some inserts for my R4512 so just curious how you're going to solve that.

Again, incredible mods and you now have me thinking about what I can do to my saw 

Matt


----------



## paulnwa

paulnwa said:


> *The Unveiling -- Before and After*
> 
> This final chapter winds up our journey-* Decked Out Ridgid Model R4511 Table Saw*.
> 
> *Where I Started*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Changes I Made*
> 
> Here is the baker's dozen of additions and modifications I made to my *Model R4511 *to transform it from a great tablesaw to an even greater one - and more importantly, into one which fits the constraints of my small shop and my own personal preferences.
> 
> • Improved Mobile Base
> • Internal Baffling
> • Improved Dust Collection
> • On-Board Storage
> • Rear Extension Table
> • Downdraft Side ExtensionTable
> • Upgraded Rip Fence
> • Relocated Tilt Handwheel
> • Digital Tilt Angle Indicator
> • Zero Clearance Inserts
> • Upgraded Miter Gage
> • Upgraded Power Switch
> • Conversion to 240VAC Input
> 
> *Where I Finished - My Decked Out Model R4511*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it okay if I say I'm *really *pleased with the way this project turned out? Dads should be proud of their kids, right………….!!
> 
> *Closing Thoughts*
> 
> This has been a wonderful, creative, adventure for me. This is the first time I have made major modifications to a piece of woodworking equipment. I am especially pleased that I was able to make significant improvements to a machine that was already well-engineered, to make it better fit *my *needs and preferences.
> 
> In retrospect, I can only think of two changes I would make if I were doing it again:
> 
> • Make the Rip Fence Rail Support Angle from ¼" steel stock
> • Mount the Mobile Base on 5" diameter casters.
> 
> I hope the information I have presented - in a lot of detail, intentionally - will encourage others to reevaluate their equipment and look for ways to modify or adapt it to meet *their *unique situation and personal preferences. How many times have you said, * "Gee, I really like this tool, but I wish this _ feature was different"? * The big picture may look daunting, but if you break it up in little pieces (and maybe those into even smaller pieces) it is probably doable far easier than you can possibly imagine. *Go for it!!*
> 
> There are lots of experienced folks here at LJ and other forums like it, who are always ready to offer suggestions and share their experiences. I am retired, so I have a lot of time to putter, and offer "sage advice", whatever that is. If I can help, please don't hesitate to ask. I have made most of the possible mistakes over the years, so maybe I can steer you around some of them……………
> 
> Thanks for following patiently along with me. I hope to hear some feedback from folks who have used this information to modify their *Model R4511 *or other equipment to better suit *their *preferences. I hope you will post pics of your adventure!
> 
> So long- for now……………


Hi *Matt*, did you take a look at the section in the blog where I talked about the ZCI? I don't currently have a riving knife for this saw, altho I may make or purchase one in the future. The stock metal insert has a slot cut clear to one end to accept the guard/splitter or a riving knife. I haven't looked into it carefully, but it appears that it would weaken the open end of the insert. The phenolic material is very stiff, so maybe that wouldn't be a problem. Another option that I haven't looked into seriously is the type of aftermarket splitter that mounts to holes in the end of the insert -not as effective as a true riving knife, but probably useful. So far, I haven't had a problem with the saw kerf closing up on me, but it is possible with some woods that may have extreme stresses in them. That may be a blessing in disguise to have a lower powered saw which might stall in that circumstance, unlike the 3HP General 350 cabinet saw I used to have.

I think the R4512 would lend itself to many of the improvements I made to this saw. But of course your saw isn't nearly as heavy without the granite top, so maybe your existing mobile base is okay, tho it does waste a lot of space. Even tho your tilt handwheel is on the right side, it could be mounted on the front as I discussed in the blog. You would need to invert the sketch to visualize what it would look like for a right hand tilt wheel. If you make any changes, be sure to post some pics.


----------



## mprzybylski

paulnwa said:


> *The Unveiling -- Before and After*
> 
> This final chapter winds up our journey-* Decked Out Ridgid Model R4511 Table Saw*.
> 
> *Where I Started*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Changes I Made*
> 
> Here is the baker's dozen of additions and modifications I made to my *Model R4511 *to transform it from a great tablesaw to an even greater one - and more importantly, into one which fits the constraints of my small shop and my own personal preferences.
> 
> • Improved Mobile Base
> • Internal Baffling
> • Improved Dust Collection
> • On-Board Storage
> • Rear Extension Table
> • Downdraft Side ExtensionTable
> • Upgraded Rip Fence
> • Relocated Tilt Handwheel
> • Digital Tilt Angle Indicator
> • Zero Clearance Inserts
> • Upgraded Miter Gage
> • Upgraded Power Switch
> • Conversion to 240VAC Input
> 
> *Where I Finished - My Decked Out Model R4511*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it okay if I say I'm *really *pleased with the way this project turned out? Dads should be proud of their kids, right………….!!
> 
> *Closing Thoughts*
> 
> This has been a wonderful, creative, adventure for me. This is the first time I have made major modifications to a piece of woodworking equipment. I am especially pleased that I was able to make significant improvements to a machine that was already well-engineered, to make it better fit *my *needs and preferences.
> 
> In retrospect, I can only think of two changes I would make if I were doing it again:
> 
> • Make the Rip Fence Rail Support Angle from ¼" steel stock
> • Mount the Mobile Base on 5" diameter casters.
> 
> I hope the information I have presented - in a lot of detail, intentionally - will encourage others to reevaluate their equipment and look for ways to modify or adapt it to meet *their *unique situation and personal preferences. How many times have you said, * "Gee, I really like this tool, but I wish this _ feature was different"? * The big picture may look daunting, but if you break it up in little pieces (and maybe those into even smaller pieces) it is probably doable far easier than you can possibly imagine. *Go for it!!*
> 
> There are lots of experienced folks here at LJ and other forums like it, who are always ready to offer suggestions and share their experiences. I am retired, so I have a lot of time to putter, and offer "sage advice", whatever that is. If I can help, please don't hesitate to ask. I have made most of the possible mistakes over the years, so maybe I can steer you around some of them……………
> 
> Thanks for following patiently along with me. I hope to hear some feedback from folks who have used this information to modify their *Model R4511 *or other equipment to better suit *their *preferences. I hope you will post pics of your adventure!
> 
> So long- for now……………


Ah, I just re-read the ZCI portion. There was a lot of info to take in so I forgot some of it


----------



## SignWave

paulnwa said:


> *The Unveiling -- Before and After*
> 
> This final chapter winds up our journey-* Decked Out Ridgid Model R4511 Table Saw*.
> 
> *Where I Started*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Changes I Made*
> 
> Here is the baker's dozen of additions and modifications I made to my *Model R4511 *to transform it from a great tablesaw to an even greater one - and more importantly, into one which fits the constraints of my small shop and my own personal preferences.
> 
> • Improved Mobile Base
> • Internal Baffling
> • Improved Dust Collection
> • On-Board Storage
> • Rear Extension Table
> • Downdraft Side ExtensionTable
> • Upgraded Rip Fence
> • Relocated Tilt Handwheel
> • Digital Tilt Angle Indicator
> • Zero Clearance Inserts
> • Upgraded Miter Gage
> • Upgraded Power Switch
> • Conversion to 240VAC Input
> 
> *Where I Finished - My Decked Out Model R4511*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it okay if I say I'm *really *pleased with the way this project turned out? Dads should be proud of their kids, right………….!!
> 
> *Closing Thoughts*
> 
> This has been a wonderful, creative, adventure for me. This is the first time I have made major modifications to a piece of woodworking equipment. I am especially pleased that I was able to make significant improvements to a machine that was already well-engineered, to make it better fit *my *needs and preferences.
> 
> In retrospect, I can only think of two changes I would make if I were doing it again:
> 
> • Make the Rip Fence Rail Support Angle from ¼" steel stock
> • Mount the Mobile Base on 5" diameter casters.
> 
> I hope the information I have presented - in a lot of detail, intentionally - will encourage others to reevaluate their equipment and look for ways to modify or adapt it to meet *their *unique situation and personal preferences. How many times have you said, * "Gee, I really like this tool, but I wish this _ feature was different"? * The big picture may look daunting, but if you break it up in little pieces (and maybe those into even smaller pieces) it is probably doable far easier than you can possibly imagine. *Go for it!!*
> 
> There are lots of experienced folks here at LJ and other forums like it, who are always ready to offer suggestions and share their experiences. I am retired, so I have a lot of time to putter, and offer "sage advice", whatever that is. If I can help, please don't hesitate to ask. I have made most of the possible mistakes over the years, so maybe I can steer you around some of them……………
> 
> Thanks for following patiently along with me. I hope to hear some feedback from folks who have used this information to modify their *Model R4511 *or other equipment to better suit *their *preferences. I hope you will post pics of your adventure!
> 
> So long- for now……………


Thank you very much for sharing. I also have this saw and want to address several of the concerns that you have. I also find the saw to be top heavy, and having a "less-than-perfect" floor plus the need to move the saw around, the base that comes with it doesn't work so well for me. A new base is definitely in the plans. I hope you don't mind if I borrow some ideas from yours 

I also find the stock fence to be acceptable, but not particularly accurate or stable (the split rails seem to shift just enough to be annoying). I am installing the Incra TS-LS on mine. I am debating which side to put a router on the left side (and contend with the tilt handwheel) or on the right (and contend with the access door). Seeing how you moved the handwheel sure makes the left side mount more compelling.

I am also planning on creating my own riving knife out of some sheet stock, using the blade guard as a template.

Thanks again for the inspiration!


----------



## paulnwa

paulnwa said:


> *The Unveiling -- Before and After*
> 
> This final chapter winds up our journey-* Decked Out Ridgid Model R4511 Table Saw*.
> 
> *Where I Started*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Changes I Made*
> 
> Here is the baker's dozen of additions and modifications I made to my *Model R4511 *to transform it from a great tablesaw to an even greater one - and more importantly, into one which fits the constraints of my small shop and my own personal preferences.
> 
> • Improved Mobile Base
> • Internal Baffling
> • Improved Dust Collection
> • On-Board Storage
> • Rear Extension Table
> • Downdraft Side ExtensionTable
> • Upgraded Rip Fence
> • Relocated Tilt Handwheel
> • Digital Tilt Angle Indicator
> • Zero Clearance Inserts
> • Upgraded Miter Gage
> • Upgraded Power Switch
> • Conversion to 240VAC Input
> 
> *Where I Finished - My Decked Out Model R4511*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it okay if I say I'm *really *pleased with the way this project turned out? Dads should be proud of their kids, right………….!!
> 
> *Closing Thoughts*
> 
> This has been a wonderful, creative, adventure for me. This is the first time I have made major modifications to a piece of woodworking equipment. I am especially pleased that I was able to make significant improvements to a machine that was already well-engineered, to make it better fit *my *needs and preferences.
> 
> In retrospect, I can only think of two changes I would make if I were doing it again:
> 
> • Make the Rip Fence Rail Support Angle from ¼" steel stock
> • Mount the Mobile Base on 5" diameter casters.
> 
> I hope the information I have presented - in a lot of detail, intentionally - will encourage others to reevaluate their equipment and look for ways to modify or adapt it to meet *their *unique situation and personal preferences. How many times have you said, * "Gee, I really like this tool, but I wish this _ feature was different"? * The big picture may look daunting, but if you break it up in little pieces (and maybe those into even smaller pieces) it is probably doable far easier than you can possibly imagine. *Go for it!!*
> 
> There are lots of experienced folks here at LJ and other forums like it, who are always ready to offer suggestions and share their experiences. I am retired, so I have a lot of time to putter, and offer "sage advice", whatever that is. If I can help, please don't hesitate to ask. I have made most of the possible mistakes over the years, so maybe I can steer you around some of them……………
> 
> Thanks for following patiently along with me. I hope to hear some feedback from folks who have used this information to modify their *Model R4511 *or other equipment to better suit *their *preferences. I hope you will post pics of your adventure!
> 
> So long- for now……………


*SignWave*-Thanks for the response and your positive comments.

Borrow away, my good man! That's why I posted this project-to give other owners some things to think about and maybe some solutions to quirks of the original design that could be improved upon. And hopefully other folks will come up with some ideas that will leapfrog mine into a better design yet! Ah, the fun of sharing ideas!!

I have heard that the Incra fence is a dandy! It should be a huge improvement over the stock fence!

I have noticed that some folks have posted information about after market riving knives-both shop made and commercially made. I have also seen some discussions about using (adapting?) the ones available for one of the comparable Steel City saws. I don't know if the comparable saw at Sears (also made by Orion) would offer a compatible riving knife as a spare part-might be worth checking out. Go for it!


----------



## knotscott

paulnwa said:


> *The Unveiling -- Before and After*
> 
> This final chapter winds up our journey-* Decked Out Ridgid Model R4511 Table Saw*.
> 
> *Where I Started*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Changes I Made*
> 
> Here is the baker's dozen of additions and modifications I made to my *Model R4511 *to transform it from a great tablesaw to an even greater one - and more importantly, into one which fits the constraints of my small shop and my own personal preferences.
> 
> • Improved Mobile Base
> • Internal Baffling
> • Improved Dust Collection
> • On-Board Storage
> • Rear Extension Table
> • Downdraft Side ExtensionTable
> • Upgraded Rip Fence
> • Relocated Tilt Handwheel
> • Digital Tilt Angle Indicator
> • Zero Clearance Inserts
> • Upgraded Miter Gage
> • Upgraded Power Switch
> • Conversion to 240VAC Input
> 
> *Where I Finished - My Decked Out Model R4511*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it okay if I say I'm *really *pleased with the way this project turned out? Dads should be proud of their kids, right………….!!
> 
> *Closing Thoughts*
> 
> This has been a wonderful, creative, adventure for me. This is the first time I have made major modifications to a piece of woodworking equipment. I am especially pleased that I was able to make significant improvements to a machine that was already well-engineered, to make it better fit *my *needs and preferences.
> 
> In retrospect, I can only think of two changes I would make if I were doing it again:
> 
> • Make the Rip Fence Rail Support Angle from ¼" steel stock
> • Mount the Mobile Base on 5" diameter casters.
> 
> I hope the information I have presented - in a lot of detail, intentionally - will encourage others to reevaluate their equipment and look for ways to modify or adapt it to meet *their *unique situation and personal preferences. How many times have you said, * "Gee, I really like this tool, but I wish this _ feature was different"? * The big picture may look daunting, but if you break it up in little pieces (and maybe those into even smaller pieces) it is probably doable far easier than you can possibly imagine. *Go for it!!*
> 
> There are lots of experienced folks here at LJ and other forums like it, who are always ready to offer suggestions and share their experiences. I am retired, so I have a lot of time to putter, and offer "sage advice", whatever that is. If I can help, please don't hesitate to ask. I have made most of the possible mistakes over the years, so maybe I can steer you around some of them……………
> 
> Thanks for following patiently along with me. I hope to hear some feedback from folks who have used this information to modify their *Model R4511 *or other equipment to better suit *their *preferences. I hope you will post pics of your adventure!
> 
> So long- for now……………


As stated on another forum, this is awesome and inspired work. It's not only functional, but is extraordinarily well done….very cool looking upgrades!


----------



## paulnwa

paulnwa said:


> *The Unveiling -- Before and After*
> 
> This final chapter winds up our journey-* Decked Out Ridgid Model R4511 Table Saw*.
> 
> *Where I Started*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Changes I Made*
> 
> Here is the baker's dozen of additions and modifications I made to my *Model R4511 *to transform it from a great tablesaw to an even greater one - and more importantly, into one which fits the constraints of my small shop and my own personal preferences.
> 
> • Improved Mobile Base
> • Internal Baffling
> • Improved Dust Collection
> • On-Board Storage
> • Rear Extension Table
> • Downdraft Side ExtensionTable
> • Upgraded Rip Fence
> • Relocated Tilt Handwheel
> • Digital Tilt Angle Indicator
> • Zero Clearance Inserts
> • Upgraded Miter Gage
> • Upgraded Power Switch
> • Conversion to 240VAC Input
> 
> *Where I Finished - My Decked Out Model R4511*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it okay if I say I'm *really *pleased with the way this project turned out? Dads should be proud of their kids, right………….!!
> 
> *Closing Thoughts*
> 
> This has been a wonderful, creative, adventure for me. This is the first time I have made major modifications to a piece of woodworking equipment. I am especially pleased that I was able to make significant improvements to a machine that was already well-engineered, to make it better fit *my *needs and preferences.
> 
> In retrospect, I can only think of two changes I would make if I were doing it again:
> 
> • Make the Rip Fence Rail Support Angle from ¼" steel stock
> • Mount the Mobile Base on 5" diameter casters.
> 
> I hope the information I have presented - in a lot of detail, intentionally - will encourage others to reevaluate their equipment and look for ways to modify or adapt it to meet *their *unique situation and personal preferences. How many times have you said, * "Gee, I really like this tool, but I wish this _ feature was different"? * The big picture may look daunting, but if you break it up in little pieces (and maybe those into even smaller pieces) it is probably doable far easier than you can possibly imagine. *Go for it!!*
> 
> There are lots of experienced folks here at LJ and other forums like it, who are always ready to offer suggestions and share their experiences. I am retired, so I have a lot of time to putter, and offer "sage advice", whatever that is. If I can help, please don't hesitate to ask. I have made most of the possible mistakes over the years, so maybe I can steer you around some of them……………
> 
> Thanks for following patiently along with me. I hope to hear some feedback from folks who have used this information to modify their *Model R4511 *or other equipment to better suit *their *preferences. I hope you will post pics of your adventure!
> 
> So long- for now……………


Thanks *knotscott*, it was a fun project that did turn out pretty well.

I see you have a lot of wonderful projects on your home page. I have a lot of catching up to do!


----------



## noweyrey1

paulnwa said:


> *The Unveiling -- Before and After*
> 
> This final chapter winds up our journey-* Decked Out Ridgid Model R4511 Table Saw*.
> 
> *Where I Started*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Changes I Made*
> 
> Here is the baker's dozen of additions and modifications I made to my *Model R4511 *to transform it from a great tablesaw to an even greater one - and more importantly, into one which fits the constraints of my small shop and my own personal preferences.
> 
> • Improved Mobile Base
> • Internal Baffling
> • Improved Dust Collection
> • On-Board Storage
> • Rear Extension Table
> • Downdraft Side ExtensionTable
> • Upgraded Rip Fence
> • Relocated Tilt Handwheel
> • Digital Tilt Angle Indicator
> • Zero Clearance Inserts
> • Upgraded Miter Gage
> • Upgraded Power Switch
> • Conversion to 240VAC Input
> 
> *Where I Finished - My Decked Out Model R4511*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it okay if I say I'm *really *pleased with the way this project turned out? Dads should be proud of their kids, right………….!!
> 
> *Closing Thoughts*
> 
> This has been a wonderful, creative, adventure for me. This is the first time I have made major modifications to a piece of woodworking equipment. I am especially pleased that I was able to make significant improvements to a machine that was already well-engineered, to make it better fit *my *needs and preferences.
> 
> In retrospect, I can only think of two changes I would make if I were doing it again:
> 
> • Make the Rip Fence Rail Support Angle from ¼" steel stock
> • Mount the Mobile Base on 5" diameter casters.
> 
> I hope the information I have presented - in a lot of detail, intentionally - will encourage others to reevaluate their equipment and look for ways to modify or adapt it to meet *their *unique situation and personal preferences. How many times have you said, * "Gee, I really like this tool, but I wish this _ feature was different"? * The big picture may look daunting, but if you break it up in little pieces (and maybe those into even smaller pieces) it is probably doable far easier than you can possibly imagine. *Go for it!!*
> 
> There are lots of experienced folks here at LJ and other forums like it, who are always ready to offer suggestions and share their experiences. I am retired, so I have a lot of time to putter, and offer "sage advice", whatever that is. If I can help, please don't hesitate to ask. I have made most of the possible mistakes over the years, so maybe I can steer you around some of them……………
> 
> Thanks for following patiently along with me. I hope to hear some feedback from folks who have used this information to modify their *Model R4511 *or other equipment to better suit *their *preferences. I hope you will post pics of your adventure!
> 
> So long- for now……………


HI Paul, I'm glad to see the ZCI made it onto your saw. That is an impressive machine and gives me lots of ideas for my 4511 that I never thought of before. Great job detailing all the modifications you made as well. Very Inspiring.
If you do decide to add a riving knife, there is a guy on ebay selling one that works pretty well. Just flip your ZCI end for end and extend the cut for the blade. it lined up pretty well for me. Since I've gotten one I've stopped using the factory guard all together.
I Look forward to your next projects.

Jeff


----------



## paulnwa

paulnwa said:


> *The Unveiling -- Before and After*
> 
> This final chapter winds up our journey-* Decked Out Ridgid Model R4511 Table Saw*.
> 
> *Where I Started*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Changes I Made*
> 
> Here is the baker's dozen of additions and modifications I made to my *Model R4511 *to transform it from a great tablesaw to an even greater one - and more importantly, into one which fits the constraints of my small shop and my own personal preferences.
> 
> • Improved Mobile Base
> • Internal Baffling
> • Improved Dust Collection
> • On-Board Storage
> • Rear Extension Table
> • Downdraft Side ExtensionTable
> • Upgraded Rip Fence
> • Relocated Tilt Handwheel
> • Digital Tilt Angle Indicator
> • Zero Clearance Inserts
> • Upgraded Miter Gage
> • Upgraded Power Switch
> • Conversion to 240VAC Input
> 
> *Where I Finished - My Decked Out Model R4511*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it okay if I say I'm *really *pleased with the way this project turned out? Dads should be proud of their kids, right………….!!
> 
> *Closing Thoughts*
> 
> This has been a wonderful, creative, adventure for me. This is the first time I have made major modifications to a piece of woodworking equipment. I am especially pleased that I was able to make significant improvements to a machine that was already well-engineered, to make it better fit *my *needs and preferences.
> 
> In retrospect, I can only think of two changes I would make if I were doing it again:
> 
> • Make the Rip Fence Rail Support Angle from ¼" steel stock
> • Mount the Mobile Base on 5" diameter casters.
> 
> I hope the information I have presented - in a lot of detail, intentionally - will encourage others to reevaluate their equipment and look for ways to modify or adapt it to meet *their *unique situation and personal preferences. How many times have you said, * "Gee, I really like this tool, but I wish this _ feature was different"? * The big picture may look daunting, but if you break it up in little pieces (and maybe those into even smaller pieces) it is probably doable far easier than you can possibly imagine. *Go for it!!*
> 
> There are lots of experienced folks here at LJ and other forums like it, who are always ready to offer suggestions and share their experiences. I am retired, so I have a lot of time to putter, and offer "sage advice", whatever that is. If I can help, please don't hesitate to ask. I have made most of the possible mistakes over the years, so maybe I can steer you around some of them……………
> 
> Thanks for following patiently along with me. I hope to hear some feedback from folks who have used this information to modify their *Model R4511 *or other equipment to better suit *their *preferences. I hope you will post pics of your adventure!
> 
> So long- for now……………


Hi *Jeff*, thanks for the nice comments.

That phenolic material I got from you for the ZCI's is really nice stuff. It really is hard, isn't it! They should last a long time, especially putting two slots in them.
Thanks for the info on the riving knife. I may try one out some time in the future. 
There is a risk not using the guard, but I would much rather see the blade area than have it obscured. The responsibility is on me to keep my hands out of harms way. 
I still have a router table cabinet to build for the top, lift, and fence I bought. I have it partly designed, so now I need to get back to it.
The LOML is anxious for me to get a Murphy bed built for our combination computer room/guest bedroom/craft room. I will be designing the bed with a fold down table and room for storage, so it should be an interesting project-that will show up here on LJ someday….. Good to hear from you!


----------



## crzy4wood

paulnwa said:


> *The Unveiling -- Before and After*
> 
> This final chapter winds up our journey-* Decked Out Ridgid Model R4511 Table Saw*.
> 
> *Where I Started*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Changes I Made*
> 
> Here is the baker's dozen of additions and modifications I made to my *Model R4511 *to transform it from a great tablesaw to an even greater one - and more importantly, into one which fits the constraints of my small shop and my own personal preferences.
> 
> • Improved Mobile Base
> • Internal Baffling
> • Improved Dust Collection
> • On-Board Storage
> • Rear Extension Table
> • Downdraft Side ExtensionTable
> • Upgraded Rip Fence
> • Relocated Tilt Handwheel
> • Digital Tilt Angle Indicator
> • Zero Clearance Inserts
> • Upgraded Miter Gage
> • Upgraded Power Switch
> • Conversion to 240VAC Input
> 
> *Where I Finished - My Decked Out Model R4511*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it okay if I say I'm *really *pleased with the way this project turned out? Dads should be proud of their kids, right………….!!
> 
> *Closing Thoughts*
> 
> This has been a wonderful, creative, adventure for me. This is the first time I have made major modifications to a piece of woodworking equipment. I am especially pleased that I was able to make significant improvements to a machine that was already well-engineered, to make it better fit *my *needs and preferences.
> 
> In retrospect, I can only think of two changes I would make if I were doing it again:
> 
> • Make the Rip Fence Rail Support Angle from ¼" steel stock
> • Mount the Mobile Base on 5" diameter casters.
> 
> I hope the information I have presented - in a lot of detail, intentionally - will encourage others to reevaluate their equipment and look for ways to modify or adapt it to meet *their *unique situation and personal preferences. How many times have you said, * "Gee, I really like this tool, but I wish this _ feature was different"? * The big picture may look daunting, but if you break it up in little pieces (and maybe those into even smaller pieces) it is probably doable far easier than you can possibly imagine. *Go for it!!*
> 
> There are lots of experienced folks here at LJ and other forums like it, who are always ready to offer suggestions and share their experiences. I am retired, so I have a lot of time to putter, and offer "sage advice", whatever that is. If I can help, please don't hesitate to ask. I have made most of the possible mistakes over the years, so maybe I can steer you around some of them……………
> 
> Thanks for following patiently along with me. I hope to hear some feedback from folks who have used this information to modify their *Model R4511 *or other equipment to better suit *their *preferences. I hope you will post pics of your adventure!
> 
> So long- for now……………


Hello Paul, I'd like to know if you still have the same saw and setup today in 2020. Also, did you ever have issues with the mobile base sagging in the center as time went on because of the weight?


----------

