# Mounting a Router to a Table - Plate? or No Plate (directly to the top)?



## PurpLev

Hi,

I'm at the point where I am about to mount my router to the router table top.

The top is 1 3/8" solid phenolic. I am currently favoring mounting the router directly to the top. this means routing a circle recess on the underside of the top to house the router and keep it ~3/8" from the top (so that the bits can reach through).

I also have a 5/8" phenolic plate which at one point I was considering making into a plate that will sit in the router table, and have the router mount to it. this involves more work as I have to cut the plate square on all sides, round the corners, recess a hole to house the router (lowering the thickness of the plate to ~3/8" at that area), then routing the table top to house the plate, and level them out. the benefit I see in this though is easier router removal from the table if needed. another thing is - I could make plates for other tools (jigsaw,etc?)

I don't see much need to take the router out of the table as this is a dedicated router for table operations. This makes me favor the mounting directly to the table top option. but before I go through with it. I was wondering - is there a reason why I shouldn't mount it to the table? anything I didn't think of? any bad experience from those of you that mounted the router directly to the top?

Thanks in Advance!

P.S. I am not going to BUY a $100 router-table plate, but will do with what I've got. (also my 5/8" phenolic plate matches that phenolic table top)


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## miles125

I vote directly to the top. Sometimes we can overthink things


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## RetiredCoastie

Depending on how heavy the intended router weighs it could cause warping of phenolic plates. I've been doing research on components and that seems to be an issue when comparing phenolic to aluminium when used with heavy routers.


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## CaptainSkully

I find that being able to work on the router/plate while it's sitting on the table is very convenient. Changing bits, setting depths, etc. is easier. Being able to mount a different router in the future would be nice. Mounting the router would be considerably easier that first time too. I had to threadlock my router's spindle, which was easier with the plate. I would go ahead and do the plate option just so I don't regret it in the future. It's a bit more work, but a lot of extra flexibility. My $0.02.


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## Cory

I have used my table mounted router in a hand-held operation just using the plate as the base. I've also pulled it out when a bit was stuck in the collet (because I over tightened), when I wanted to lube up the height adjustment rod, when I needed to blow out the housing with compressed air, etc.

Basically, all that could have been done while it was mounted to the table, but it would have been much harder to do. I vote for you to spend the extra time and make a router plate. It's easy for me to say, though, cause it isn't my time!

Good luck. Can't wait to see the final result.


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## cheller

Here's another thought. If you mount the router to the table the hole for the bit will need to be large enough to accomodate the largest diameter bit you'll use, or think you'll use. Mounting it to a plate means that it would be easier to have multiple plates to accomodate multiple bit diameters. It's a lot easier to store extra plates than extra table tops, and you'd be able to work safer with smaller opening (the equivalent of zero clearance inserts in a table saw) around the bit.


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## Beginningwoodworker

I just have my router base screw to the router top, and works great for me.


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## TheDane

My first router table had the router base mounted to the underside of the table. Bit changes were no fun, setting bit height required a good deal of fussing and fiddling, and if the bit was properly installed, I gave up a good deal of cutting height (I don't trust bit extenders).

Next, I went with a plexilglass plate routed into the table top which solved the the cutting height problem, but bit changes and setting cutting height still required more tinkering than I like to do. I never noticed any flex in the plexiglass plate.

I finally dedicated a router to the table (PC890), then popped for a Woodpecker's Quick Lift 350A http://www.woodpeck.com/quickliftalum.html) ... I love it!


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## Blake

Like cheller said the main thing is how big to make the hole. If you only have a 1/4" router and only use smaller (1" diameter) bits than keep it simple.

I use my router table for larger bits a lot of the time, like frame and panel sets for making cabinet doors. So having a plate with throat insert rings is a must. You want to have the least amount of clearance around the bit possible for safety.

The other disadvantage to mounting directly to the table depends on how easy it is to change router bits from above the table on your particular router model. I lift out my router plate and router every time I change bits.


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## Karson

I like the flexibility of having different size throat plates to fit the size of the router bit. and having a hole for the largest router bit doesn't seem safe to me for use with smaller router bits and smaller pieces of wood.

I love my mfg'ed router lift with insert able router throat plates.

My lift is a Jessem that is about 8 years old and the newer ones are even nicer. with lots of features. I mounted a digital readout on mine to assisting in getting everything tweaked.

I bought a quicklift like TheDane posted about and it's still in the box. I plan to make a dedicated router table someday. Mine is now on the tablesaw extension and sometimes it's a hastle having to move the fence to use the router.


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## PurpLev

Thanks for the comments. I should have been a bit more clear:

regardless of whether I use a plate or not I WILL have a zero clearane INSERT setup. the through hole (plate, or top) will be 3" (opening in my router base), there WILL be inserts that will fit into the 3" hole (3 1/8" notch to take the insert).

bit change, and bit height are both contolled via the router which as a built in lift. not concerned about that. bit 'reach' above the table will be handled whether I use plate or not, and will have full extension over the table.

a good point was from Cory about blowing the housing and lubing the rods… didn't think about that. can be done while router is installed, but def. easier when removed from table with a plate.

sagging is also an issue, as the plate (if chosen that route) will be 5/8" phenolic. I know the 3/8" phenolic have a tendency of sagging under heavy motors - which this one may be one. that's also why I originally got the 5/8" material for extra strength…

still debating. 

Thanks for all the comments- keep em coming. the more comments, and the more I think about it, the more sense it all makes.


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## EEngineer

Well, if you are not gonna spend $100 on a router plate then you are certainly not gonna spend what it takes for my suggestion: the Woodpecker QuikLift. I love mine! It is simply the single most useful addition to my router table. Bit height adjustment is smooth and accurate to .001" and one quick 90 degree twist of the lift handle brings the router up to the top for effortless above-the-table bit changes.

Even if you don't want a Quiklift, there are good reasons to choose their router plate (BTW, all this applies to the Quiklift, too). As cheller mentioned, the table opening must accomodate the biggest router bit you intend to use. Woodpecker plates come with different inserts that are well-machined and easy to change. One of the standard 3 that ship with these units takes standard 1 3/16" PC inserts. A cheap ($12.99) set of brass inserts from HF allows openings from 7/8" to 1/8". I think it is safer with an opening tighter to the router bit diameter; I've had some nasty moments when splinters or cutoffs fall into the opening around the bit and get chewed up.

The other thing I like is the ruler lines on either side of the router opening. These are indexed to the exact center of the router bit (at least on my Quiklift they are) and I use them constantly to setup the fence position accurately. My fence is just mounted to a coupla T-tracks dadoed into the router table and the rulers allow me to set the fence accurately every time.

Just my .02…


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## EEngineer

Sorry… posting at the same time you were 

Still some good points.


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## JohnGray

I use aluminum plates on my table and have one of the plates in the link below for each of my routers, I love 'um…no sag!. They are a bargain and Rockler has free shipping until 1/3/2010.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=1385&filter=router%20plate


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## dbhost

A plate makes it easier to pull the router if need be…


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## bobkberg

I'd vote for the plate myself - Both for the changing of bits and such, and because I only have one router.

And if that wasn't enough, I also use the cutout in the table (it's my radial-arm saw table) for my sewing machine.


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## Rick Dennington

Greetings: The way I see it, it's your router and table. Do it the way you want to. You're gonna hear all kind of sugesstions how to mount it. Just pick one, and go for it.


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## RetiredCoastie

What router are you mounting in the table?


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## PurpLev

*Rick* - you are correct, it's my party, and I'll cry if I want to. just want to verify if there's any reason I should be crying for that I haven't thought of myself  look at my original post - I did not ask for which option to use. I was rather specific in my question, and asked based on my choice, if there's anything I'm missing that would be a culprit.

*RetiredCoastie* - I'm mounting in the Triton 3 1/4hp router

*John* - thanks for the link. I think that's the plate that I currently have for the Bosch. I'm not too fond of the blue color but at that price it's affordable. heck, maybe I'll just use the plate from my bosch for now, just have to drill more holes into it. we'll see how it goes - another option readily available. thanks


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## seyit

If you don't care much about the task of changing the bits,go and install it to the top.


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## WhittleMeThis

Have both sets ups and find the direct mount to the table to be much more precise and I trust it a lot more as I do not worry about leveling screws moving and messing with the flatness of the table. I also have a router that is removable from the base (2 1/4 Milwaukee) so bit changes are fairly easy. The draw back is the insert size in my direct mount table its fixed at one inch (no insert just 1 inch hole). So i use only narrow bits, for larger bits I use my table with a router plate and 3 1/4 Freud router.


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## blackcherry

Here something to consider as well as time passes you may find another router and plate at a great deal and can't pass up and boy is it nice to just swap out plate and router at the same time. Always more to think about, my vote is plate.


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## craftsman on the lake

As you know i'm still in the deciding stage with the router thing. But, with the first table top I had I made my own router plate out of plexiglas.. it didn't work out well. Not rigid enough. But I did make a set of rings for that plate out of walnut. I use a hole cutter on my drill press and cut a 1" deep ring about 4" in diameter in the walnut. Then I cut a small center hole about an 1/8" deep and sliced the ring off on my bandsaw. Next I cut a larger center hole and sliced that off. I made three or four of these with the largest being the size of my panel bit which is huge. The router plate didn't work well but the walnut center rings did.


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## AaronK

my vote is: direct mount.

i have a freud 2-base kit, with the fixed base permanently mounted to the underside of my router table. I'm not sure how your triton works, but removing the motor is easy enough to do, if/when it needs to be done. The freud has above the table height and bit change capabilities too - does the triton?

anyway, further reasoning for direct mount is as follows:

1. idiot proof. no alignment issues. rock solid. 
2. deflection of the phenolic will be minimal (negligible? 3/8 phenolic in a ~5" recess is plenty!) since it's quite thick in every area but the router recess (1 and 3/8??? did i read that right?!). 
3. the recess for the router will be small… substantially smaller than a plate. so you can always try out the direct mount system. if it's not to your liking, you can always retrofit a plate.


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## BlankMan

Try it, if it sags you can always get an aluminum plate then and install it. If you're worried about the 5/8" phenolic sagging cross brace it close to the router with 1/4" angle iron. Either blind tap the phenolic from the bottom or use 1/4"-3/8" flat head allen screws from the top. Might not hurt to brace it anyway.


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## PurpLev

Thanks.

yes, the top is 1 3/8" which means I have to route a recess for the router ~7" in diameter, about ~7/8" deep to allow the collet to reach the top of the table… slow and steady.

the triton is a plunge router, cannot be taken out of the base, but the plan is to keep it permanently in the table anyways. I have another bosch 2.25hp for hand work. the triton does have above table height adj. and bit change so other than for maintenance, it will not need to be removed from the table.

like AaronK said - I can always enlarge the opening to take a plate, but won't be able to go the other way around.

was planning to find some reasons I shouldn't do it, but so far I have not found any. I think I'll mount the router directly to the top. and if I find that troublesome, I'll later on install a plate.

Thanks for the ideas, and opinions everyone.


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## PurpLev

Curt -the only thing that worries me about the "getting an aluminum plate later on" is the fact that I have to match the opening for the plate based on dimensions of a plate (aluminum) that I don't have at hand, which can cause some mismatching. thats why I'd rather install directly to top, and if I ever decided to get a plate - can make the opening to it then, based on a plate that I can trace.


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## AaronK

you could do a flip-top lid… that is, hinge the top like the trunk of a car. that'll give you easy access to the bottom if you need it.


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## CharlieM1958

* I think I'll mount the router directly to the top. and if I find that troublesome, I'll later on install a plate.*

Great minds think alike…what can I say?


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## miles125

My router takes all of two seconds to flip open the hold down clamp and unscrew the router and sit on a table ready to change its bits. I'm not sure why anyone would even be attempting to change bits in a router while its in the table. ???


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## AaronK

some new models have above-the-table bit changing capabilities… meaning you dont even have to remove the motor.


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## BlankMan

Sharon, my fault, I thought the whole top was 5/8" not 1-3/8", I read that too quick and replied, I was late to pick up my Chinese dinner, I was thinking what you said. I was even thinking 5/8" phenolic is kind of thin for the whole top. The other thing I forgot to mention was get a recessed wrench for the collet (like an S or Z) to make loosening/tightening easier.


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## PurpLev

no worries Curt… hope dinner was good. we went to lunch today, and the waitress forgot to pass our order to the kitchen… we waited for A WHILE….

as for the wrench. the wrench that came with the router is slightly angled at the head, and when the router is plunged all the way through, the collet extrudes 1/2" beyond the base - so I should have good clearance to get to it on the table, but is not - I'll def. setup a wrench for that. thanks for the pointer.

miles - the router table is going to be enclosed, so I wouldn't want to reach in to get the router out every bit change, and my router allows me to change the bit without having to remove it as AaronK mentioned.

Charlie - does that mean that you are going to install it for me? but seriously - do you have a pic of your triton installed by any chance? very interested to see


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