# Jet cabinet saw re-hab



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*a new cener piece for the shop..... needs a little TLC*

I posted about my good fortune scoring this early 80's Jet CTAS10 with Biesemeyer fence and 50" table….

Here she is…. just needs a little TLC




























I hit the top with course steel wool to get the flakey red rust off



















upon taking things apart I have these observations…

The Biesemeyer fence is really rugged…. tube is straight as and arrow, even after some rough handling, and the 'L' brackets are really rugged… must be 1/4" angle.

Fortunately, the arbor bearings appear to be nice and tight….as I can't get any wiggle on the arbor at all.

Top is flat as a pancake

I was surprised to see this old saw came with an angle plate and DC hook up.

We fired up the motor at work, b4 I brought her home…. so at least I know it runs.

The top….. well…. that's why i only paid $100…. so I'll be giving Evapo-rust a try and see if it lives up to it's reputation.

The saw was used in the corrugated shop to cut built up corrugated blocks…. and it was not hooked up to DC ….. so the cab was packed full of clumpy shredded paper dust….. did I say packed full? I mean packed FULL.

Even the blade is sharp and appears to be a decent one.

So follow along if you want to laugh at my travails….

I'm very psyched, as I never thought I would be able to afford a 3 HP cabinet saw…. but with some sweat equity, I will hopefully make this saw the center piece of my shop.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *a new cener piece for the shop..... needs a little TLC*
> 
> I posted about my good fortune scoring this early 80's Jet CTAS10 with Biesemeyer fence and 50" table….
> 
> ...












missed this pic….

notice that they had been running the saw with only one belt :^O

Trunnions are fairly beefy.

The tilt and raising action is very stiff…. but I'm hoping it's really all due to the dust packed into every nook and cranny.


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## Cato (May 1, 2009)

ssnvet said:


> *a new cener piece for the shop..... needs a little TLC*
> 
> I posted about my good fortune scoring this early 80's Jet CTAS10 with Biesemeyer fence and 50" table….
> 
> ...


Congrats on your score. Sounds like a thorough cleaning and greasing etc. and you will be pretty much ready to go!!

I am not familiar with other Jet tools but their table saws seem to be a solid well built piece of machinery.


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## GMman (Apr 11, 2008)

ssnvet said:


> *a new cener piece for the shop..... needs a little TLC*
> 
> I posted about my good fortune scoring this early 80's Jet CTAS10 with Biesemeyer fence and 50" table….
> 
> ...


Great saw should last you for a very long time enjoy it my friend.
You made a great buy.
Thanks for posting


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## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

ssnvet said:


> *a new cener piece for the shop..... needs a little TLC*
> 
> I posted about my good fortune scoring this early 80's Jet CTAS10 with Biesemeyer fence and 50" table….
> 
> ...


Looks like it will be a fine saw after you get through with it.

It's amazing what some people will do to a piece of equipment.

The angle and height controls should be fine once they've been cleaned and lubricated.

Lee


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## ratchet (Jan 12, 2008)

ssnvet said:


> *a new cener piece for the shop..... needs a little TLC*
> 
> I posted about my good fortune scoring this early 80's Jet CTAS10 with Biesemeyer fence and 50" table….
> 
> ...


Sweet! Really a single C-note for it. This is going to be good…I look forward to installments.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *a new cener piece for the shop..... needs a little TLC*
> 
> I posted about my good fortune scoring this early 80's Jet CTAS10 with Biesemeyer fence and 50" table….
> 
> ...


If any body else ever gets into one of these old Jets (CTS or CTAS).... you'll soon discover that they are no longer supported for parts and service….

But… the early model JTAS saws are supported, and I learned from another LJ, that some of the parts are interchangeable.

Fortunately for me, the lock knob for the control wheels is one of those parts.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

ssnvet said:


> *a new cener piece for the shop..... needs a little TLC*
> 
> I posted about my good fortune scoring this early 80's Jet CTAS10 with Biesemeyer fence and 50" table….
> 
> ...


Great find!


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## Goodski (Jan 18, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *a new cener piece for the shop..... needs a little TLC*
> 
> I posted about my good fortune scoring this early 80's Jet CTAS10 with Biesemeyer fence and 50" table….
> 
> ...


Yes that looks like the same saw for sure so I will be watching intently to see your progress. I have been a lurker for the last 2 years so I need a couple of posts before it will allow me to message you, but I will as soon as I can.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*mover over Barbie.... Evapo-rust is movin' in*

So there's two approaches for Evapo-rust…

1. submerge part
2. for large parts, lay paper towels or rags on top and saturate, then cover with plastic to avoid evaporation.

It seems that many of the posts by guys going with option 2 result with odd stains as the products of chelation (carbon bonded to iron??) are deposted in certain areas more than others…..

So I set off on a hunt through the house, basement, attic and barn to find a tub large enough for the 27" x 8" extention tables…. (we only have umpteen hundred of these things half full of junk in various locations)... NO JOY!!!

But then a trip to the kids toy closet….. what's that I see…. an jumbo sized bin used to store a whole lot of Barbie Dolls…... BINGO!!!!

I dumped ~2/3 a gallon and put the first ext. wing in upside down, resting on some small plastic checkers…..

Here's the set up…..










putting the top back on to avoid evaporation…..and off two watch a movie….










Three hours later…. WOW!

Spray off with garden hose…. wipe with paper towels…. spray again…. dry and then spray with WD40 to prevent flash rust….

Too late to get pic of finished product up…. so I'll keep you in suspense untill tonight.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

ssnvet said:


> *mover over Barbie.... Evapo-rust is movin' in*
> 
> So there's two approaches for Evapo-rust…
> 
> ...


thats a lot of liquid!

for larger things I ended up going with electrolysis which is a cheaper alternative - I use evaporust for small parts though.

but - whatever works is what counts. looking forward to seeing this come together


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *mover over Barbie.... Evapo-rust is movin' in*
> 
> So there's two approaches for Evapo-rust…
> 
> ...


I've never used this stuff b4…. and wanted to try it…. so I was willing to put the $22 into it.

Which btw… I had a bugger of a time finding it…. Tried two different Tractor Supply stores and two differnt Auto-Zones…. no luck….. I finally got it from Fastenal.

By putting the wings face down, on the plastic checkers, I'm only filling about 1.5" in the bottom of the tub (~ 2/3 to 3/4 gal.

Also, this makes it easy for the product of the chemical reaction to drop to the bottom, away from the surface.

One of my checkers moved while I was dropping the wing in the juice, leaving a small section sitting on the bottom…. and sure enough, there are black stains at that spot. Hopefully they'll come off with another treatment.

I have an old battery charger and really should try electrolysis…. I guess I'm just chicken when it comes to putting hot electrical leads into water :^O


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

ssnvet said:


> *mover over Barbie.... Evapo-rust is movin' in*
> 
> So there's two approaches for Evapo-rust…
> 
> ...


evaporust is good stuff. a little cleaning with green pad will clean those black spots after treatment is done.

I was only able to find the larger containers online - had it shipped.

As for electrolysis - as long as the (+) and (-) are not coming in direct contact you do not have running currently in the circuit other than once placed into the solution in which case the solution is conducting the electricity - so you do not get any 'shorts' or anything like that - rather safe. you should be concerned about the oxygen and hydrogen that is being generated at each pole though (highly flammable/explosive)


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## davidroberts (Nov 8, 2008)

ssnvet said:


> *mover over Barbie.... Evapo-rust is movin' in*
> 
> So there's two approaches for Evapo-rust…
> 
> ...


HF sells evaporust, if you have one nearby. Electrolysis is by far the cheapest way to go, and is relatively safe. I use baking soda and a 5 gallon bucket or a large old cooler I found and patched up. A battery charger is really a step down transformer and at 12 volts and 1 to 2 amps, no problem. Just don't cross the leads. I use a few razor blades (safety blades) in a holder to first scrape off what I can, then go to electrolysis. Evaporust the bolts and nuts, done.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *mover over Barbie.... Evapo-rust is movin' in*
> 
> So there's two approaches for Evapo-rust…
> 
> ...


unfortunately, the nearest HF is 3+ hours away.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*first wing cleaned up*

before










and after










the weird thing about this Evapo-rust stuff… is that no matter how much you wipe it clean, it still turns a white paper towel black.

Hmmmmm….

I was planning to hit the table with my jitter bug sander and mineral spirits when all done…. perhaps that will take it down to bare metal again…..

Not sure if you can tell by the photo, but the table has some deep scratches in it…. I suspect someone cut lumber with exposed nails…. more than once.

second wing is in the juice now….


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## crashn (Aug 26, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *first wing cleaned up*
> 
> before
> 
> ...


In the before picture, the one on the right you can see the scratch. Really should not effect the overall operation or accuracy of the saw. I'm sure it bugs ya, but someday it will just melt away from your mind and you will hardly notice anymore.


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## BrownsFan (Jul 11, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *first wing cleaned up*
> 
> before
> 
> ...


that's incredible!


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

ssnvet said:


> *first wing cleaned up*
> 
> before
> 
> ...


with evaporust, I clean the parts with light warm soapy water after they are soaked, then spray them with WD-40 to disposition the water, and wipe with a paper towel. I've never had the towels turn black.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *first wing cleaned up*
> 
> before
> 
> ...


I'll try the soapy water and a scrubby thingy…


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *first wing cleaned up*
> 
> before
> 
> ...


...


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*second wing cleaned up...*

not to shabby….










I took a putty knife to the blotches on the first one and they scraped right off. I'm guessing that the rust was thicker there and because I only soaked them for ~3 hrs, it wasn't enough time to react through it all in those areas.

plan is to jitterbug them with a splash of mineral spirits

and then hit them with a greenie and barkeepers friend (don't tell my wife please)

then some paste wax and hopefully call it done.

I'm at a loss for a container large enough for the main top….. may build a shallow tray out of 1×4 and particle board and line it with a garbage bag.


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## SirFatty (May 5, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *second wing cleaned up...*
> 
> not to shabby….
> 
> ...


For the top, use a heavy (contractor) garbage bag.. some of them are 7 mils thick.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *second wing cleaned up...*
> 
> not to shabby….
> 
> ...


Ooooooh….. hot sunny day, and I just filled up the puppy pool and got a devious idea :^)

He wouldn't mind me borrowing it would he?


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*more progress on the top...*

Doggy pool wasn't big enough to submurge the main section of the top, so I had to sacrifice some old t-shirts to the cause and use the wet cloth soak method…. didn't work out quite as well as submerging the extension wings did…. but not too bad.










I think I'm done with the rust removal untill after I reassemble the top… which will be a while.

Next up is to do a thorough cleaning of the cabinet, and see what conditon the arbor bearings are in, and whether or not I can free up the tilt and blade height mechanisms.

I decided to pick up a Leecraft phenolic ZCI…. here it is next to the old insert that was on the saw.

I suspect I'll be needing to mill a slot for the splitter…. Unless I decide to install a Shark Gaurd.










not exactly setting the world on fire here…. but I'm happy to be making progress of some sort.


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## HerbC (Jul 28, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *more progress on the top...*
> 
> Doggy pool wasn't big enough to submurge the main section of the top, so I had to sacrifice some old t-shirts to the cause and use the wet cloth soak method…. didn't work out quite as well as submerging the extension wings did…. but not too bad.
> 
> ...


I think this is in the wrong blog series…


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *more progress on the top...*
> 
> Doggy pool wasn't big enough to submurge the main section of the top, so I had to sacrifice some old t-shirts to the cause and use the wet cloth soak method…. didn't work out quite as well as submerging the extension wings did…. but not too bad.
> 
> ...


Thanks Herb… I think I got it straight now


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## usnret (Jul 14, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *more progress on the top...*
> 
> Doggy pool wasn't big enough to submurge the main section of the top, so I had to sacrifice some old t-shirts to the cause and use the wet cloth soak method…. didn't work out quite as well as submerging the extension wings did…. but not too bad.
> 
> ...


WD-40 and some 220 wet and then 320 wet will make that top look good as new.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*Blog / project resurrection....*

I finally knocked out several other (non-woodworking) projects and got back into my TS last night.

Since I have to move it from the barn to the basement all by my lonesome self, I'm disassembling it into the major sub-assemblies. I have the cast iron table and extensions cleaned up and moved down. So last night I took down the motor and cleaned it up…. YUK!

This saw was last used in our box shop at work to cut blocks from glued up thicknesses of cardboard and it was NOT hooked up to DC. So they would scoop out the cabinet when the fluffy waste started burping out top :^O

So the junction box and starting coil shroud were both packed full of the stuff, and quite a bit was in the fan housing as well. But it's a sealed industrial style motor and spins freely, so I'm not concerned about it getting into the windings. I filled a Wal-Mart bag 1/3 full with the fluffy shreaded cardboard by the time I was done.

Can you say ACHOOO! I'm not supposed to start sneezing untill fall alergies kick in :^(

I couldn't break free the set screw on the three groove sheave, so I poured rust remover in a metal cookie tray, and stood the motor on the end of the sheave, resting on some 1x strips across the top of the tray. Two hours later the sheave cleaned up with minimal effort.

I didn't take any b4 pics….. but I'll try to shoot some after ones tonight.

Now my big decission….

To remove the trunnion assembly and haul it down in pieces, or try to rig the cabinet down the bulkhead with the trunnions still in it, using a tractor bucket and chains. I pulled this off with a 400 lb. bench top milling machine still in it's crate once…... but it wasn't fun.

Any body out there pull the trunnions off of a cabinet saw?

does the assembly stay together when you remove it? Or do the trunnions come out of the trunnion bracket ways as soon as they are unbolted and lifted?

If I had my druthers, I wouldn't pull it apart.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Blog / project resurrection....*
> 
> I finally knocked out several other (non-woodworking) projects and got back into my TS last night.
> 
> ...


Here she is all cleaned up and spiffy. Simple Green full strength and a toothbrush work small wonders.


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## PhilStLouis (Mar 14, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *Blog / project resurrection....*
> 
> I finally knocked out several other (non-woodworking) projects and got back into my TS last night.
> 
> ...


Hey! Nice saw!

I've been lurking for a month or so and stumbled across the beginings of your series and was bummed that you hadn't showed us the results of your project. I am really interested in your journey as I just aquired the same saw. I was the lucky first responder the a craigslist ad and paid $200 for it. Came with a huge set of Biese fence rails but no fence. Missing the Splitter/gaurd and the cabinet front door.

I havn't found a whole lot about the saw online (other than the manual) but went ahead with the fix up process somewhat blind. Perhaps we can share some of our learnings from the process….

So far I've changed the bearings in the arbor and motor. They both really needed it!

I gave the cabinet a paint job and put everything back together. I don't have time to finish the job for another month or so. I still need to allign everything, build a cabinet door, figure out the best splitter (potentially a retrofit delta), and set up the fence. I also built a mobile base for it and had to replace the handwheels (front was broke off)...the crank shafts also need straightening. Damn, what a process. I'm really stoked about the saw!

I have some pictures I can post and I can't wait to see more of yours. Post some pics of the cabinet door if you can.

Phil in St. Louis


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## PhilStLouis (Mar 14, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *Blog / project resurrection....*
> 
> I finally knocked out several other (non-woodworking) projects and got back into my TS last night.
> 
> ...


Here are a couple shots of mine…let me know if you need to see anything in particular


















And the splitter mount in question:


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## PhilStLouis (Mar 14, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *Blog / project resurrection....*
> 
> I finally knocked out several other (non-woodworking) projects and got back into my TS last night.
> 
> ...


Oh, also, my LihDar motor has 1984 stamped on it…What year is yours? How excellent is it that they stamped the bearing types right on the motor plate as well!

Phil


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Blog / project resurrection....*
> 
> I finally knocked out several other (non-woodworking) projects and got back into my TS last night.
> 
> ...


Hi Phil,

Your saw looks great.

My motor turns pretty smoothly, so I'm not popping open the case. Though I will be changing over to HF link belts.

I've talked to a gent at Jet (very polite, knowledgeable and helpful) and though they no longer support the old CTAS line, it appears that many of the parts for the JTAS will transfer over to this saw. I can pass on his e-mail address. If you are interested, PM me.

Mind me asking what you used for paint. I wasn't planning on re-painting mine…. but may do some touch ups.

I was lucky to get the saw pretty much complete, with fence and blade guard. The fence and splitter is pretty beat up and I'm not crazy about the design. So I'm interesting in having a Shark guard made for it. I've corresponded with the guy who makes them and he says he thinks they will work, but wants me to provide some photos and measurements. Maybe we can do a "group buy" ;^)


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## PhilStLouis (Mar 14, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *Blog / project resurrection....*
> 
> I finally knocked out several other (non-woodworking) projects and got back into my TS last night.
> 
> ...


The paint I used isn't a match, but I like it. Its a Valspar brand spray called cobalt cannon.

I was also looking at the shark setup and was thinking the one they made for the JTAS-10 might fit. I saw somewhere online a guy took the removable splitter from the delta unigaurd system (splitter does't seem to be currently available) and installed it on his JTAS-10 with very minor modification to the mounting holes. From that I gather that the overall design of our jet saws are based on the older uni-saw.

I guess what I'm saying is I don't fully understand how the shark system mounts the the rear trunnion. Do they supply a mounting bracket or does their system work with our factory mounting bracket? I know they offer the "ratcheting handle" so swapping the splitters is easier.

Does your splitter mount look like the one I pictured?

Glad we are in this together!

Phil


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## PhilStLouis (Mar 14, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *Blog / project resurrection....*
> 
> I finally knocked out several other (non-woodworking) projects and got back into my TS last night.
> 
> ...


Splitter bracket from JTAS-10:


















Slightly different but look at all the right to left adjustability on the JTAS-10 bracket. I'm thinking we could buy this bracket (~$8) and then buy the JTAS-10 kit from Shark.

Phil


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Blog / project resurrection....*
> 
> I finally knocked out several other (non-woodworking) projects and got back into my TS last night.
> 
> ...


The picture you're showing from replacement parts looks like the mirror image of ours and is most likely left tilt saw…..

Given their vintage, I suspect that these Jet CTAS saws were the opening salvo of the "Asian invasion" as they were manufactured in Taiwan and were knock offs of the early Delta Unisaw (though the castings appear to be of slightly lighter construction).

I find the Shark Guard web site to be a bit confusing to navigate. But if you e-mail the guy, he appears to be very willing to help you in any way he can.

How difficult was the motor bearing replacement?


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## PhilStLouis (Mar 14, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *Blog / project resurrection....*
> 
> I finally knocked out several other (non-woodworking) projects and got back into my TS last night.
> 
> ...


Yeah, you're right about that being a left tilter!

The bearing replacement on the motor was the easiest I've done…one big load bearing and one smaller…I wouldn't hesitate to do it while you have the motor out…I just used a pretty standard gear puller and a pipe that fit the inner race to pound them on
Phil


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## PhilStLouis (Mar 14, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *Blog / project resurrection....*
> 
> I finally knocked out several other (non-woodworking) projects and got back into my TS last night.
> 
> ...


edited* whoops


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## JoseN (Apr 8, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *Blog / project resurrection....*
> 
> I finally knocked out several other (non-woodworking) projects and got back into my TS last night.
> 
> ...


I also Just purchased the saw and have found out almost nothing is available.
I would like the email to the gentleman that know the interchangable parts from the CTAS to JTAS


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*Houston, the Eagle has landed!!*

One man, one dolly and one daughter to hold the doors and clear the way….

Progress !!!


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## JL7 (Apr 13, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *Houston, the Eagle has landed!!*
> 
> One man, one dolly and one daughter to hold the doors and clear the way….
> 
> Progress !!!


Matt - looking forward to seeing the results…...I see you got your second wind here….keep going.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Houston, the Eagle has landed!!*
> 
> One man, one dolly and one daughter to hold the doors and clear the way….
> 
> Progress !!!


My daughter wants to know why I made so many loud "cave man" noises huffing the cab down the bulkhead steps….

I guess it's a guy thing…

Any one remember Vasili Alexia? That guy could grunt! He could also dead lift 900 lbs.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *Houston, the Eagle has landed!!*
> 
> One man, one dolly and one daughter to hold the doors and clear the way….
> 
> Progress !!!


Where was Vasili when you needed him? Am ambitious project that should pay dividends for a long time. Carry on and keep us posted.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*Amazing what you notice when you clean something*

I discovered that the front arbor bracket casting has a small area broken off the little bump out ledge (see red arrow) where the 90 deg. stop screw (labelled C & D) should hit it. :^(










Not a major issue as I rarely tilt the blade, but I think cranking the mechanism untill the stop screw hits the ledge helps take out the backlash and better locks the mechanism in place. Hmmmmmmm… I'll have to think on this one.


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## Grumpymike (Jan 23, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Amazing what you notice when you clean something*
> 
> I discovered that the front arbor bracket casting has a small area broken off the little bump out ledge (see red arrow) where the 90 deg. stop screw (labelled C & D) should hit it. :^(
> 
> ...


Fill the area with JB Weld and file back into shape????


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## ratchet (Jan 12, 2008)

ssnvet said:


> *Amazing what you notice when you clean something*
> 
> I discovered that the front arbor bracket casting has a small area broken off the little bump out ledge (see red arrow) where the 90 deg. stop screw (labelled C & D) should hit it. :^(
> 
> ...


ditto on the grumpymike suggestion


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Amazing what you notice when you clean something*
> 
> I discovered that the front arbor bracket casting has a small area broken off the little bump out ledge (see red arrow) where the 90 deg. stop screw (labelled C & D) should hit it. :^(
> 
> ...


Here's a pic of the broken ledge….










I like the JB Weld idea.

Another thought was to file the broken surface flat, and drill and tap a hole. Then put in a bolt as the new bearing/reference point.


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## MR_Cole (Jun 1, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Amazing what you notice when you clean something*
> 
> I discovered that the front arbor bracket casting has a small area broken off the little bump out ledge (see red arrow) where the 90 deg. stop screw (labelled C & D) should hit it. :^(
> 
> ...


Those stops are never accurate because of dust buildup. Just use the 45 degree angle on a combination square.


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## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *Amazing what you notice when you clean something*
> 
> I discovered that the front arbor bracket casting has a small area broken off the little bump out ledge (see red arrow) where the 90 deg. stop screw (labelled C & D) should hit it. :^(
> 
> ...


I like the bolt idea. I use a Wixey for all my set ups


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*Disassembled the arbor *

Took the entire arbor bracket assy into work today and one of our maintenance mechanics helped me take it apart on the press.

The Spanner Nut was a peculiar piece of hardware that didn't match up with any of the various spanner wrenches they had in their chest. So he put a torch to it and then it broke free with just a tap on a drift pin held at an angle. New mechanic, who I had never met before…very nice guy…. so I made a new friend in the process.










One bearing is "OK" the other is definitely "crunchy".

I've found VXB bearings to be economical and easy to use…. so I broke the bank and ordered them at $2.35/ea :^) This is a pretty common size bearing and I hate to spend more on shipping than product, so I ordered a few extras for my next nutty professor project.

Progress = success


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## JL7 (Apr 13, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *Disassembled the arbor *
> 
> Took the entire arbor bracket assy into work today and one of our maintenance mechanics helped me take it apart on the press.
> 
> ...


Bingo…...the crunchy bearings gotta go…..keep it going….


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## Ken90712 (Sep 2, 2009)

ssnvet said:


> *Disassembled the arbor *
> 
> Took the entire arbor bracket assy into work today and one of our maintenance mechanics helped me take it apart on the press.
> 
> ...


So far so good. I hear ya on he bearings and shipping. I'm lucky to have a big bearing place and McMaster Carr close.


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *Disassembled the arbor *
> 
> Took the entire arbor bracket assy into work today and one of our maintenance mechanics helped me take it apart on the press.
> 
> ...


Cap'n Crunch Berries = GOOD
Crunchy Bearings = BAD
Cheap replacements = (almost) PRICELESS!!!


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## Timbo (Aug 21, 2008)

ssnvet said:


> *Disassembled the arbor *
> 
> Took the entire arbor bracket assy into work today and one of our maintenance mechanics helped me take it apart on the press.
> 
> ...


Good to see you have the bearing out. I have a noisy on on my old craftman saw but unfortunately it is not available.

Anyway, good progress!


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Disassembled the arbor *
> 
> Took the entire arbor bracket assy into work today and one of our maintenance mechanics helped me take it apart on the press.
> 
> ...


A caliper is your best friend Tim….

Most of these bearings are very standard and can be had at any of several on-line dealers (I used VXB.com).

O.D., I.D. and width (most often listed in mm) and then find a picture that looks like yours.


----------



## Timbo (Aug 21, 2008)

ssnvet said:


> *Disassembled the arbor *
> 
> Took the entire arbor bracket assy into work today and one of our maintenance mechanics helped me take it apart on the press.
> 
> ...


I had the bearing out and took it to a local bearing company, they could not come up with a match. It's an odd ball.


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Disassembled the arbor *
> 
> Took the entire arbor bracket assy into work today and one of our maintenance mechanics helped me take it apart on the press.
> 
> ...


Bummer


----------



## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *Disassembled the arbor *
> 
> Took the entire arbor bracket assy into work today and one of our maintenance mechanics helped me take it apart on the press.
> 
> ...


Sorry to hear of this


----------



## PhilStLouis (Mar 14, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *Disassembled the arbor *
> 
> Took the entire arbor bracket assy into work today and one of our maintenance mechanics helped me take it apart on the press.
> 
> ...


Nice work! It looks like you have everything in proper order but pay particular attention to the spacers. I made the mistake of assuming they were identical, but one is slightly longer. I reassembled only to discover the pulley was crammed up against the arbor casting…had to take it apart and swap the spacers around.

Phil


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Disassembled the arbor *
> 
> Took the entire arbor bracket assy into work today and one of our maintenance mechanics helped me take it apart on the press.
> 
> ...


I just pressed the bearings into place and reassembled the arbor during break …… NO JOY

Something's definitely not right :^(

Need to diagnose tonight when I have more time…. more time but no press


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Disassembled the arbor *
> 
> Took the entire arbor bracket assy into work today and one of our maintenance mechanics helped me take it apart on the press.
> 
> ...


Well I pulled the arbor assembly apart again tonight and I jacked up one of the new bearings earlier today on the hydraulic press…. nice and crunchy :^(

Fortunately I purchased extra bearings, so I'll take another crack at it in the a.m.

Apparently the press was just too much… but looking on the bright side, now I understand better how the assembly works…


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Disassembled the arbor *
> 
> Took the entire arbor bracket assy into work today and one of our maintenance mechanics helped me take it apart on the press.
> 
> ...


the ways cleaned up pretty well… a bit discolored but smooth….










arbor is back together turning smooth with no slop…. HF link belts put on…










I'm 4 links shy of putting together a third belt :^(


----------



## PhilStLouis (Mar 14, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *Disassembled the arbor *
> 
> Took the entire arbor bracket assy into work today and one of our maintenance mechanics helped me take it apart on the press.
> 
> ...


Nice! Those Harbor Freight belts are a good deal. I'm sure they will go on sale at some point too and I'll have to buy a few.


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*Working on the Fence*

Guide tube is rusty but straight










Evaporust to the rescue










Once again…. after cleaning things up, I discover little "gems"

The Cam foot is bent… an has been leaving indents in the guide tube.


















I pulled a Biesemyer manual off the web… and this is what it's supposed to look like…


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Working on the Fence*
> 
> Guide tube is rusty but straight
> 
> ...


The facing on the fence is pretty rough… so it's coming off and geting replaced…..

peel off the laminate facing to reveal the hex head self tapping sheet metal screws










ready for a replacement…


----------



## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *Working on the Fence*
> 
> Guide tube is rusty but straight
> 
> ...


Nice progress!
There ain't no sittin' on the fence for this rehab, as the Nike commercials say; "Just do it"!!!


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Working on the Fence*
> 
> Guide tube is rusty but straight
> 
> ...


Funny observation Randy…. especially since I started the Blog last summer :^O

I am on a roll, however, and want to get the saw set up and running.


----------



## PhilStLouis (Mar 14, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *Working on the Fence*
> 
> Guide tube is rusty but straight
> 
> ...


jealous of the fence…are you going to replace the cam foot or fix that one?

Phiul


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Working on the Fence*
> 
> Guide tube is rusty but straight
> 
> ...


Though I"m sure I could get replacements from Biesemyer and doubt they would cost much, I'll try to fix this one up first, so that I don't have to wait for the slow boat from AZ.

I'm looking for some dense, yet grippy rubber material to reface the foot. I already scraped off the cracked facing (appears to have been laminate) and cleaned up the parts.

Stopped by HD this afternoon and picked up a can of Rustolium primer.

I'm not much concerned with the aesthetic restoration, but the process of cleaning up the guide tube took most of the remaining paint off, so even though my shop is pretty dry, I'm still concerned about it rusting up again.

So I"m going to prime it and paint (mainly because I already have a couple cans of white, but also because they often come that way from Biesemeyer and I like it well enough).


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Working on the Fence*
> 
> Guide tube is rusty but straight
> 
> ...


One coat of primer and one coat of white sprayed on and drying….


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Working on the Fence*
> 
> Guide tube is rusty but straight
> 
> ...


Well, at least the guide rail turned out pretty well…..


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*2 steps forward 1 step back*

Swapped out the damaged bearing and got the arbor assy back together tonight.

Then I mounted the arbor and the motor and lined up the pulleys. But in the process of tightening up the bolt that locks the motor in position on its pivot, I stripped the threads. Steel Bolt and cast motor bracket…. you guess which one won that battle.

It's a 7/16" fine thread, with plenty of thickness around it, so I'm hoping I can drill out the motor bracket by hand, without removing it, and then tap it to 1/2" UNC.

The motor slipped in my hands while mounting it, and The starting capacitor cover was dented. I sure hope the cap isn't damaged, as that will cos me a pretty penny to have it replaced.


----------



## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *2 steps forward 1 step back*
> 
> Swapped out the damaged bearing and got the arbor assy back together tonight.
> 
> ...


BUMMER DUDE!!!


----------



## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *2 steps forward 1 step back*
> 
> Swapped out the damaged bearing and got the arbor assy back together tonight.
> 
> ...


Good luck and keep us posted


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *2 steps forward 1 step back*
> 
> Swapped out the damaged bearing and got the arbor assy back together tonight.
> 
> ...


I pulled the starting cap cover and fortunately their doesn't appear to be any damage….

I'll find out for sure when I hit the start button for the first time.

Also, I've got a 1/2"-13 tap… So at least I don't have to borrow one.


----------



## PhilStLouis (Mar 14, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *2 steps forward 1 step back*
> 
> Swapped out the damaged bearing and got the arbor assy back together tonight.
> 
> ...


I had to replace my start capacitors…they were about $5.50 a piece. That motor is heavy as hell. Keep us posted


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *2 steps forward 1 step back*
> 
> Swapped out the damaged bearing and got the arbor assy back together tonight.
> 
> ...


Since my motor bearings are spinning freely with no detectable slop, I was hoping, in a big way, to not have to open up the motor case. So fingers are crossed with respect to the starter cap, as I'm assuming I'd have to make the connections inside.

Yeah… I'd guess the motor weighs ~80# Once upon a time, I'd military press more than that in sets of 10. But that was once upon I time :^o

After building a timber frame house and pole barn, my rotator cuff doesn't love me any more… And when you factor in a desk job, a wife who is a good cook and gravity….. :^(


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*Top gets sanded*

after clean up with evaporust….










Sanding with 150 grit sheet rock sandpaper (couldn't find 220 emery) and then one of the red metalic Scotch pads, wetted with mineral spirits produced…


----------



## Robb (Aug 18, 2007)

ssnvet said:


> *Top gets sanded*
> 
> after clean up with evaporust….
> 
> ...


Oooo, shiny!  That's going to be a beauty when you're all done.


----------



## Handtooler (Jul 24, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Top gets sanded*
> 
> after clean up with evaporust….
> 
> ...


Good Morning Posiden Junkie, Looking very muck improved! It;s surely gonna be a fine machine when you're all said and done. I've used Norton's Red Oxide 400 grit fabric abrasive cloth with mineral spirits for rust from a wet board streak. I acquired it at an auto paint store. When in the USAF we called it crocus cloth, but no one knows what that is in Chattanooga. It sure cleaned up some mighty ugly streaks on my saw and jointer tables.


----------



## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *Top gets sanded*
> 
> after clean up with evaporust….
> 
> ...


She "cleans up" nice!
Don't forget to use the paste wax, to prevent future rust!!!


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Top gets sanded*
> 
> after clean up with evaporust….
> 
> ...


paste wax

most definitely…

crocus cloth

I've heard that term b4…. I'll have to stop by NAPPA and see what they have….

It looks pretty good and I'm sure it will be functional… but there are a lot of little dings, dents and nicks in it. I'd love to have it surface ground…. but that would defeat the "budget" nature of this project.

I'm probably not doing this blog the right way… as I have an entry for each different sub-project (fence, top, arbor). I'm doing them all simultaneously and am updating each as I make more headway. If you're following along, go back and check my updates to the previous pages.

I was able to get a borrow a 29/64 bit from a mechanic at work, so I should be able to tap the motor mount hole I stripped out, and maybe then mount the top and apply power. I'm anxious to measure the arbor run-out, as that will be a big indication of what kind of precision I can expect from the saw.


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*ways and arbor are ready*

(I posted this as a response to an earlier entry by mistake, and am moving it here as a new entry… sorry if you double read)

the ways cleaned up pretty well… a bit discolored but smooth….

I'm told that it's better off to NOT lubricate the ways, as they will become a dust magnet. Any thoughts? Maybe wax?










arbor is back together turning smooth with no slop… I'm anxious to measure the run out.

HF link belts put on…










I'm 4 links shy of putting together a third belt :^(


----------



## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *ways and arbor are ready*
> 
> (I posted this as a response to an earlier entry by mistake, and am moving it here as a new entry… sorry if you double read)
> 
> ...


What about a "Dry Lubricant"...


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *ways and arbor are ready*
> 
> (I posted this as a response to an earlier entry by mistake, and am moving it here as a new entry… sorry if you double read)
> 
> ...


Ya know… we used to have a can of dry molly around work…. I should experiment and see if it would be appropriate….

I got a 20% of HF coupon via. e-mail and since it was also good for web orders I broke down and ordered another 5' link belt


----------



## Bluepine38 (Dec 14, 2009)

ssnvet said:


> *ways and arbor are ready*
> 
> (I posted this as a response to an earlier entry by mistake, and am moving it here as a new entry… sorry if you double read)
> 
> ...


I use a dry graphite lube on my saws cast iron trunnions and it works good, slick and no sawdust sticking.


----------



## Bogeyguy (Sep 26, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *ways and arbor are ready*
> 
> (I posted this as a response to an earlier entry by mistake, and am moving it here as a new entry… sorry if you double read)
> 
> ...


How do rate the quality of the HF links belts???


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *ways and arbor are ready*
> 
> (I posted this as a response to an earlier entry by mistake, and am moving it here as a new entry… sorry if you double read)
> 
> ...


I've been using the HF link belt on my very old Craftsman jointer for a couple years now and it's working very well.

I'd guess that it decreased the noise and vibration by ~1/3.

The jointer has a home made motor mount and isn't the best set up…. so I'm anxious to see how they perform on the TS.


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*stripped threads repaired & wings sanded*

Got a couple hours in on the project today….. started by breaking out my 7 amp DeWalt and drilled and then hand tapped new threads on the motor mount lock bolt.



















Of course, I forgot to stop by the hardware store on my way home from work Friday…. So I don't have a 1/2-13×3/4 bolt.

Next I brought in and cleaned up the Fence rails…. and I must say that Biesemeyer certainly didn't skimp out on the steel on these beastly boys! They are heavy.

Then I wired up the motor and put knock out plugs in some of the extra holes in the cabinet.

Finally I sanded and scrubbed the cast wings…










They look great…. untill you get close up :^(










Oh well, beggars can't be choosers.

Then I waxed the table and wings to preserve my efforts.

And last of all, I scrounged through my bins of wiring stuff to see if I had the right kind of plug to hook up the saw…. and I don't

Home Depot here I come.


----------



## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *stripped threads repaired & wings sanded*
> 
> Got a couple hours in on the project today….. started by breaking out my 7 amp DeWalt and drilled and then hand tapped new threads on the motor mount lock bolt.
> 
> ...


Looks like you are getting closer to completion


----------



## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *stripped threads repaired & wings sanded*
> 
> Got a couple hours in on the project today….. started by breaking out my 7 amp DeWalt and drilled and then hand tapped new threads on the motor mount lock bolt.
> 
> ...


It's great to see you progressing right along!!!

Don't worry about the "character lines", you'll surely be adding a few more of your own, in due time!!!


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *stripped threads repaired & wings sanded*
> 
> Got a couple hours in on the project today….. started by breaking out my 7 amp DeWalt and drilled and then hand tapped new threads on the motor mount lock bolt.
> 
> ...


getting the saw put back together and powered up shouldn't be too difficult….

The extension table, on the other hand, needs to be rebuilt. Hoping to salvage the frame… but the top is toast.

Thinking that I'll just use melomine, as the frame provides good support, I can get it on the cheap at work, and then stay after to route out the plate hole on the CNC.

I ordered a Biesemeyer replacement stylus and a few other parts from Mike's on Wed. and they were in the mail on Friday!

I'm going to have to wait untill I get the HF link belt b4 I mount the top…

Hoping to wrap it all up in another week…


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *stripped threads repaired & wings sanded*
> 
> Got a couple hours in on the project today….. started by breaking out my 7 amp DeWalt and drilled and then hand tapped new threads on the motor mount lock bolt.
> 
> ...


Houston, we have ignition!

Powered up the saw for the first time since bringing it home… Surprised how minimal the starting kick is for such a big single phase motor…. even my 1.5 HP Craftsman contractor saw gives a harder kick. I wonder if this has something to do with the link belts, as I've heard that they can help absorb some of that instantaneous kick.

The saw runs smoothly, but there's a very slight vibration/rattle coming from somewhere…. Possibly from the motor starter box. So I'll have to check for loose screws in there.

Since the TS is stealing my only 220v outlet from the DC, I need to wire up a second circuit for the DC…. which presents a good opportunity to relocate the DC motor starter box from low on the DC frame, to chest height on a more centrally located post.


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *stripped threads repaired & wings sanded*
> 
> Got a couple hours in on the project today….. started by breaking out my 7 amp DeWalt and drilled and then hand tapped new threads on the motor mount lock bolt.
> 
> ...


Finished wiring up a second 220 v circuit for the DC and mounted the motor starter box on the post….

I'm ready to mount and align the top…. but I'm going to wait until I have the third link belt set up.

Waiting on Harbor Freight now….. order placed Friday …. still hasn't shipped yet

me thinks me smells a backorder :^(


----------



## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *stripped threads repaired & wings sanded*
> 
> Got a couple hours in on the project today….. started by breaking out my 7 amp DeWalt and drilled and then hand tapped new threads on the motor mount lock bolt.
> 
> ...


Dang, I hate backorders!!!

Ya knows what they say about pictures & NOT happening!!!
WE (I) NEED PICTRES!!! Please!!!


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *stripped threads repaired & wings sanded*
> 
> Got a couple hours in on the project today….. started by breaking out my 7 amp DeWalt and drilled and then hand tapped new threads on the motor mount lock bolt.
> 
> ...


re-tapping the motor mount bolt was a success

I like socket head cap screws….


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*progress with wiring and misc. pics*

Randy wants pics… so here they are…. not overly exciting at this phase of the game….

220v 15amp outlet (dedicated circuit wired with 12-2 Romex)










Dust Collector motor starter relocated…










better than where it used to be…


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *progress with wiring and misc. pics*
> 
> Randy wants pics… so here they are…. not overly exciting at this phase of the game….
> 
> ...


These are by request for Phil, who has the same saw…

The door has two hooks at the bottom and a rotating cam latch on top


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *progress with wiring and misc. pics*
> 
> Randy wants pics… so here they are…. not overly exciting at this phase of the game….
> 
> ...


The rails and fence cleaned up pretty well….










Not sure if it's worth the effort to paint to match the guide tube or not.

Any well reasoned recommendations are welcome.


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *progress with wiring and misc. pics*
> 
> Randy wants pics… so here they are…. not overly exciting at this phase of the game….
> 
> ...


4 days gone by since ordering link belt from HF…. still no notice that they have shipped :^(

How hard will it be to add the third belt after the top is mounted and alligned?

I don't want to wait if I don't have too.


----------



## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *progress with wiring and misc. pics*
> 
> Randy wants pics… so here they are…. not overly exciting at this phase of the game….
> 
> ...


Now I SEE what you were up to!!!
hanks for the pics.
Rather than move the start switch, I got the Long Ranger, for my HF 2HP DC. Makes it so much easier!!!

No reason that you HAVE to paint to match. You may find a color that matches "close enough", or I'd recomend white. But that is a personal decision for you to make.

Looking good. Looking forward to seeing the first cuts!!!


----------



## PhilStLouis (Mar 14, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *progress with wiring and misc. pics*
> 
> Randy wants pics… so here they are…. not overly exciting at this phase of the game….
> 
> ...


Thanks for the door pics!

I think you could slip it on from the side with the motor cover off.

Phil


----------



## PhilStLouis (Mar 14, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *progress with wiring and misc. pics*
> 
> Randy wants pics… so here they are…. not overly exciting at this phase of the game….
> 
> ...


Does the cabinet itself have a rolled edge at the door or a cut edge? Mine is cut.


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *progress with wiring and misc. pics*
> 
> Randy wants pics… so here they are…. not overly exciting at this phase of the game….
> 
> ...


Mine also has a cut edge, and the door has no gasket at all.

After staring at these pics, I'm contemplating pairing the entire saw white….... What a stinky pita that would be to do though.


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *progress with wiring and misc. pics*
> 
> Randy wants pics… so here they are…. not overly exciting at this phase of the game….
> 
> ...


The Grizzly DC is 220 v and the 220 v version of the Long Ranger ain't cheap.


----------



## Ken90712 (Sep 2, 2009)

ssnvet said:


> *progress with wiring and misc. pics*
> 
> Randy wants pics… so here they are…. not overly exciting at this phase of the game….
> 
> ...


Fun project look fwd to seeing more.


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*Time to think about the extension table*

The original table is in pretty rough shape…



















The laminated surface on the top is pealing off in several places and the far end of the frame broke and has a shoddy repair, which included adding some angle iron to re-inforce the legs.

I initially thought I would cut off the top and save the frame and replace the top with a piece of melamine I have in my stash…. But cutting off the top and repairing the end sounds like more work than just making a new frame.

The good news is that the legs and even the hardware are serviceable.

So I think I'm going to make up a new frame with pocket hole construction and then put the melamine top on it. This way I can space the intermediate framing members to better accomodate the Rocker router plate I have.

Time to do my favorite gig…. design and model the new top in SolidWorks :^)


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Time to think about the extension table*
> 
> The original table is in pretty rough shape…
> 
> ...


Add'l good news… I should be getting a package from HF tomorrow…..

apparently the link belt is not back ordered after all.


----------



## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *Time to think about the extension table*
> 
> The original table is in pretty rough shape…
> 
> ...


From the pictures, a new top looks like the way to go….

Good news…..
I'll be going to HF this weekend. I know it doesn't help you…..
But it sure will be good for me!!! ;^)


----------



## Handtooler (Jul 24, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Time to think about the extension table*
> 
> The original table is in pretty rough shape…
> 
> ...


Yes, a new revised extension table is in order. While you're on to the "Soild works" program, are ya gonna draw an outfeed table also. You'll probably gonna have one any way, even if it's short. I;m sure once you design it in 3D it'll be super. Keep us bloged on you work, please.
You must have started using "Solid Works" before "SketchUp" was available free, or you have a better reason like your engineering firm buys and trained you on it???


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Time to think about the extension table*
> 
> The original table is in pretty rough shape…
> 
> ...


are ya gonna draw an outfeed table also

Oh am I ever….. plan is to put make a combination down draft sanding table / TS outfeed table that hooks up to my DC. I've got a bit of research to do b4 I'm ready for that project… so I'll post it as a project (made of wood) when I get to it.

You must have started using "Solid Works" before "SketchUp"

We use SW daily at work and the license allows me to do a second install on my home computer.

I've dabbled in Sketch Up, but why drive a VW when you have a free Ferrari in the garage :^)


----------



## Handtooler (Jul 24, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Time to think about the extension table*
> 
> The original table is in pretty rough shape…
> 
> ...


Free Ferrari I completely understand.


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*bummin about humming*

So the saw is making a weird vibration/humming noise, but when I take off the belts and run just the motor it's amazingly smooth and quiet… even the starting surge is barely perceptible.

I also noticed that one of the bearings on the arbor is running warm. So I yanked the arbor again and attempted to loosen up the bearing. But since the bearing is press fit, both into the arbor bracket casting and onto the arbor shaft, this isn't as easy as simply loosening a nut.

After loosening the retaining nut, I gave the arbor a couple taps with a mallet, in an effort to relieve some pressure on the bearing. It seemed to spin just a tad more freely, but who knows…. may have done nothing at all.

Upon reassembly, I realize that the noise is actually more likely coming from the link belts….. (which are supposed to reduce vibration, not cause it). I had been uncertain about which way to mount the green link belts, as they don't have an arrow on them, like the red ones are reported to have…. but I had found this graphic on the web… and decided to follow it.










But now I realize that this makes the drive pulley tend to push the tabs over backwards…. and though it looks like it would produce a better grip this way, I started wondering if it will run more quietly the other way. And come to think of it, when I put this same HF link belt on my jointer years ago, I now recall that I put it on one way, and then the other, and simply went with the way that was more quite. So I check the jointer…. and yup, it's the other way.

So I reversed the belts and put it all back together.

Now to get my arbor bracket off, I have to push the roll pin that secures the worm gear on the crank shaft, so I can pivot the bracket further to the rear and clear the ways. When re-installing the roll pin, the little monster went in 3/4 of the way, b4 I realize that the hole is not drilled plum, that I'm going in the out, and the exit hole in the worm gear doesn't line up…. AND…. that roll pin is not coming back out with vise grips :^(

Dremmel to the rescue…. I cut the last 1/8" of the pin flush and called it good, figuring that it was bound up in there so tight that the worm gear would never slip.

Bad news…. taking this apart again is going to be a major PITA

Good news…. between reversing the belts and playing with the arbor bearing, the vibration is gone.


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *bummin about humming*
> 
> So the saw is making a weird vibration/humming noise, but when I take off the belts and run just the motor it's amazingly smooth and quiet… even the starting surge is barely perceptible.
> 
> ...


this pic shows where the offending roll pin is located










the belts are shown mounted in the "quiet" direction… which is how I first had them on, b4 I consulted the inter web :^(


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *bummin about humming*
> 
> So the saw is making a weird vibration/humming noise, but when I take off the belts and run just the motor it's amazingly smooth and quiet… even the starting surge is barely perceptible.
> 
> ...


I'm pretty embarrassed about bunging up the roll pin.

When I put this all back together the first time, I chocked the motor out with some scrap wood until the holes in the worm gear and the shaft were lined up perfectly, and checked the alignment with a nail b4 tapping the roll pin back into place.

I think I was tired and in a hurry this second time around….

I won't be able to pull the arbor bracket again, without pulling the entire yoke and way assembly.


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## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *bummin about humming*
> 
> So the saw is making a weird vibration/humming noise, but when I take off the belts and run just the motor it's amazingly smooth and quiet… even the starting surge is barely perceptible.
> 
> ...


I am not sure, but I believe your issue maybe the result of not having match belts. Links even though they have the same number in each are not matched in length and thus will not have the same pressure applied on the pulleys. One maybe slipping as the other maybe tighter


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *bummin about humming*
> 
> So the saw is making a weird vibration/humming noise, but when I take off the belts and run just the motor it's amazingly smooth and quiet… even the starting surge is barely perceptible.
> 
> ...


I hope it all works out.
You've got a lot of work into this & I wanna see saw dust!!! ;^)
But don't rush on my account!!!


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## doyoulikegumwood (Jun 21, 2007)

ssnvet said:


> *bummin about humming*
> 
> So the saw is making a weird vibration/humming noise, but when I take off the belts and run just the motor it's amazingly smooth and quiet… even the starting surge is barely perceptible.
> 
> ...


i agree with norm i rebuilt my unisaw and had the same issue with the twist belts went out and bought a set of matched belt and it ran smooth as a brand new Mercedes.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*Wings mounted... ready for takeoff*

I mounted and alligned the table today… I took a good long time using a combinatin square and feller gauges and got the blade parallel to the miter slot within ~.002"










Then I put on the wings and found that both sides were "drooping" so I had to shim them to get them coplanar with the table. I used clamps and blocks to mount them flush and I'm very happy with the results.

Next task was to square the blade to the table and check the arbor runout. I couldn't get my dial indicator to reach down in to read directly off the arbor, so I mounted a rip blade and ran off of that…










I was pleased to see that even measuring off the blade at point ~7" dia. I was only getting +/- 0.0015", so I'm anticipating some really smooth cuts.


















I started to mount the fence 'L' rails, and found the stock I'll need to make a new extension table frame.

I also found a slab of melamine large enough for the extension table…. So I'll take that into work tomorrow and look for an opportunity to stay late so I can get on the CNC router, to cut my router plate and fence cutouts.


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *Wings mounted... ready for takeoff*
> 
> I mounted and alligned the table today… I took a good long time using a combinatin square and feller gauges and got the blade parallel to the miter slot within ~.002"
> 
> ...


Beautiful refurbish.
Looking real nice.


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## PhilStLouis (Mar 14, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *Wings mounted... ready for takeoff*
> 
> I mounted and alligned the table today… I took a good long time using a combinatin square and feller gauges and got the blade parallel to the miter slot within ~.002"
> 
> ...


Very nice!! Keep going!


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *Wings mounted... ready for takeoff*
> 
> I mounted and alligned the table today… I took a good long time using a combinatin square and feller gauges and got the blade parallel to the miter slot within ~.002"
> 
> ...


Yee-Ha!!!
Gitin' er done!!!
First cut should be soon….


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*Building the Extension Table..... My Way!*

Ol' Frankie Baby wasn't the only guy who liked to "do it my way" :^)

Started by modeling the project in SolidWorks … similar to my Rockler router table top, resized for a new (larger) plate, and turned 90 deg. from what you're used to seeing on extension wings…










Next comes exporting the cut lines into a 2D file and tweaking to facilitate conversion in the CAM suite…










I forgot to take a screen shot of the Enroute file with cutting lines…. but this is what the G-code (some 327 lines of it) that gets fed to the CNC router looks like.










Wait until LT, and then off to the woodshop I go…










Flipped it over and then cut the back side for the T-nuts that lock the fence in place.










Last night I joined, ripped and cut to length all the linear stock out of misc. Red Oak boards I've accumulated…. so now I should be able to glue this puppy up and have me the spiffiest extension wing in the east.


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *Building the Extension Table..... My Way!*
> 
> Ol' Frankie Baby wasn't the only guy who liked to "do it my way" :^)
> 
> ...


Looks really good!
I wish I had access to a CNC Router….
CAD, CAM and the required skills!!!

You're using OAK??? I thought "Pine is Fine!"


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Building the Extension Table..... My Way!*
> 
> Ol' Frankie Baby wasn't the only guy who liked to "do it my way" :^)
> 
> ...


I wanted to use a hardwood for durability…. and didn't have long enough maple boards…

Lot's of oak in the bin, however, and I'm happy to use it up.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*assembling the extension wing/router table*

Cleared the bench tonight (no small task) and test fit the router plate into the top… and then mounted the router base to the plate to check for clearance to the intermediate frame members.










Then I laid out the frame for the extension table, and set up for drilling some pocket holes.










I use the Kreg jig so infequently, I think I'll entertain myself with their "how to" video so it's all fresh in my head. My wife would just love to watch this one with me ;^)


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *assembling the extension wing/router table*
> 
> Cleared the bench tonight (no small task) and test fit the router plate into the top… and then mounted the router base to the plate to check for clearance to the intermediate frame members.
> 
> ...


Isn't watchin' the video the equivalent of readin' the directions???

Do we need to revoke your membership to "The Men's Club"??? ;^)

Nice lookin progress. It'll be nice having the router extension table!


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## dahenley (Sep 1, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *assembling the extension wing/router table*
> 
> Cleared the bench tonight (no small task) and test fit the router plate into the top… and then mounted the router base to the plate to check for clearance to the intermediate frame members.
> 
> ...


what router are you using? 
i ask, because i bought a craftsman router that uses that same clamp style lock, and it will walk and change adjustment as you rout things with a heavier profile…....

just keep an eye out and make sure it doesnt change as you rout because it could have ill effects with matching other parts if it does happen…. (trust me…...)


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## Woodwrecker (Aug 11, 2008)

ssnvet said:


> *assembling the extension wing/router table*
> 
> Cleared the bench tonight (no small task) and test fit the router plate into the top… and then mounted the router base to the plate to check for clearance to the intermediate frame members.
> 
> ...


Just wondering if those frame members are going to get in the way at all when you have to make adjustments or get at the router after its inverted.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *assembling the extension wing/router table*
> 
> Cleared the bench tonight (no small task) and test fit the router plate into the top… and then mounted the router base to the plate to check for clearance to the intermediate frame members.
> 
> ...


Eric,

Thanks for the suggestion….that was my concern as well… And the reason why I did a "dry" fit with the router base mounted. The router can be rotated 120 deg. either way, so I'll test out the other positions and see if it has enough room or not….then I can move the supports if needed. I can simply pull the router and plate from the top to do bit changes, and it has "from the bottom" depth adjustment, but I'll still need to fumble around down there to release the lock.

The router is a Bosch 1617 EVS, that came with an extra base for quick switching into a router table.

Dahenley, thanks for the heads up…I'll keep an eye on the lock.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *assembling the extension wing/router table*
> 
> Cleared the bench tonight (no small task) and test fit the router plate into the top… and then mounted the router base to the plate to check for clearance to the intermediate frame members.
> 
> ...


Randy, I've fathered three children (without the benefit of instructions) and am secure in my manhood. :^)


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*Extension table done*

Titebond Melamine for the wood to Melamine joints and Titebond III for the wood to wood joints. Lots of clamps…









Legs bolted on and corners reinforced with screws, and 1/4-20×1" long lag bolts with the tips ground flat installed as leveling screws for the plate










And here it is all pretty, with the plate leveled, the fence and miter rail installed….










I'm all ready regretting not laminating the top, as the Melamine has already chipped a little at the edge of the Miter track.


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *Extension table done*
> 
> Titebond Melamine for the wood to Melamine joints and Titebond III for the wood to wood joints. Lots of clamps…
> 
> ...


Looks great!!!
When will the saw dust fly??? Inquiring minds want, err NEED to know (& seee)!!!

The chips are nothing to worry about. After using your saw for a while, a little use & abuse should be expected & acceptable.

If it really gets trashed…
just use your "Newly Rehabbed TS" to make another!!!


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Extension table done*
> 
> Titebond Melamine for the wood to Melamine joints and Titebond III for the wood to wood joints. Lots of clamps…
> 
> ...


Now I can finish bolting up the fence 'L' rails, and get the guide tube mounted.

Then I make new facings for the fence and put the new sticky tape rules on…..

True up the fence and get the cursor set correctly and I'll be a rippin!


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## JL7 (Apr 13, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *Extension table done*
> 
> Titebond Melamine for the wood to Melamine joints and Titebond III for the wood to wood joints. Lots of clamps…
> 
> ...


Matt…...it looks great…..no regrets. Randy summed it up well…..


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*New facing for Biesemeyer fence*

I picked up a set of transfer punches on sale at a discount tool place last year. And though I don't use them very often, they sure come in handy for jobs like this.

Here I'm transfering the hole positions from the old fence facing to the new stock.










The threaded holes in the steel fence body are all in a line, so I set up a fence on my DP table. First job is to counter sink with a 1/2" forstener bit with the depth stop set for a 3/16" deep hole, using the fence to keep the distance from the edge constant, and the transfer punch divots to get the spacing correct. Then through drilling, referencing the divot from the forstener bit finished up the job.










The holes came out spot on, so mounting the facing with the original hardware was a breeze.










And here it is all finished up….










Of course, this entire technique replicated the positioning of the old facing, which was perfect…. right?

Wrong!! Neither side is parallell to the metal fence body, and they are not extending beyond the bottom by the same amount… :^(

Unless anyone has a better idea, plan 'B' is going to be to use a guide bearing bit and router to correct this lopsided situation….. but not today.


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## Woodwrecker (Aug 11, 2008)

ssnvet said:


> *New facing for Biesemeyer fence*
> 
> I picked up a set of transfer punches on sale at a discount tool place last year. And though I don't use them very often, they sure come in handy for jobs like this.
> 
> ...


Looks good, and plan "B" sounds like a reasonable fix.
Good job.
(and you wouldn't believe the workout my transfer punches have been getting lately with all the duplicate holes I've been drilling on projects. Never measure when you don't have to.)


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *New facing for Biesemeyer fence*
> 
> I picked up a set of transfer punches on sale at a discount tool place last year. And though I don't use them very often, they sure come in handy for jobs like this.
> 
> ...


getting ready for plan 'B'

On the bottom of the fence, the facing extends beyond the tube steel body, so I set up an old flush trim bit that's been re-sharpened. So the dia. is reduced to .48" To this I mounted an oversized guide bearing with a dia. = .62"

So this should give me a bottom edge to my facing that is .07" proud of and perfectly parallel to the tube steel body.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *New facing for Biesemeyer fence*
> 
> I picked up a set of transfer punches on sale at a discount tool place last year. And though I don't use them very often, they sure come in handy for jobs like this.
> 
> ...


I think this is what I'm going to shoot for…










so I'll flush trim on the top…. Plane a nice straight grained board down to 3/4 and mount with self tapping screws… They I'll mount the T-tracks and use my Rockler T-slot bit to put a track in the top.


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *New facing for Biesemeyer fence*
> 
> I picked up a set of transfer punches on sale at a discount tool place last year. And though I don't use them very often, they sure come in handy for jobs like this.
> 
> ...


Looks like maybe "PLan B" may just be the ticket!


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *New facing for Biesemeyer fence*
> 
> I picked up a set of transfer punches on sale at a discount tool place last year. And though I don't use them very often, they sure come in handy for jobs like this.
> 
> ...


I routed the top and bottoms of the facing stock with the offset guide bearing bit on the bottom and the flush cut one on the top. That part worked out well, but the facing sticks out beyond the metal tube at both ends. So I tried to clamp a narrow board into the the steel tube and shim it flush with the outside surface of the metal tube, for use as a extension for the guide bearing, but the results were so-so.

Also, my router base (I don't have a palm trim router) wouldn't clear the metal 'T' part of the fence.

So I had to remove the faces again and do some "iffy" cuts on the table saw and clean up a little with the belt sander.

The results will be totally functional, though not as "perfect" as I would have liked.

I need to press on however, as the shop is in a state of total chaos and I can barely move around in it.

I need to mount the extension table, and get the fence operable as is, so I can get my old TS out of the shop and make room to breath.

Then I can clean up and organize and finish up the fence facing and add the T-tracks.

I'm at a critical point in the project, as the snow is melted and outdoor work is calling for my time. We're driving down to DC to show the kids the sights during their spring break as well. Oh… and taxes are due as well… Turbo Tax to the rescue!


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*Fence is mostly done...*

here it is…



















Ready to set up the ext. table and the fence….


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *Fence is mostly done...*
> 
> here it is…
> 
> ...


I was wondering when you would get back to this.
Looks good. Nice progress.

I need to add some hold down clamping options to my fence.
Someday….


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## Handtooler (Jul 24, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Fence is mostly done...*
> 
> here it is…
> 
> ...


That's magnificant and I'm quite sute its perfectly true and flat. Anxiously awaiting to see the outfeed table and its assembly blog if you've done one. I seriously need a fold down one for my Grizzly G0691.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Fence is mostly done...*
> 
> here it is…
> 
> ...


I bevel cut the ends at 45 deg. as it makes it easier to get the T- studs on the track…. And to me it looks spiffy.

I do have some sharp edges that need to be blunted with a file though.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*Extention table hooked up, fence mounted.*

Gettin' there….


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## RibsBrisket4me (Jul 17, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *Extention table hooked up, fence mounted.*
> 
> Gettin' there….


Nice. Lots of work surface and that looks like a stout saw.


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## Handtooler (Jul 24, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Extention table hooked up, fence mounted.*
> 
> Gettin' there….


You're gonna really love this machine when you're all said and done. SUPER work on your additions.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*fence aligned, ZCI fit, etc...*

I use a Veritas straightedge and feeler gage to align the fence to the slot… I go for parallel and don't let the fence open up on the discharge side…










Since I got the saw for a measly $100, I splurged on some goodies… always wanted a Leecraft ZCI. UL-1A fits almost perfectly… just a little sanding and I have a nice snug fit.


















these things sure stink when you cut the slot.

I made my first test cuts on the saw ripping 4/4 pine and it cut very smoothly.

Here's a shot of the router table in the extension wing…










Now I have to decide what to do with the blade gaurd, as it's in pretty rough shape.


















I'm leaning towards using the frame, but replacing the metal gaurds with 1/4" acrylic, cut to the same shape, and rigging up a DC connection to a top plate.

That's all for tonight…


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *fence aligned, ZCI fit, etc...*
> 
> I use a Veritas straightedge and feeler gage to align the fence to the slot… I go for parallel and don't let the fence open up on the discharge side…
> 
> ...


Lookin' good!!!

Overhead DC sounds like the right direction.
I'm thinking overhead boom DC….

Is there an aftermarket riving knife available for this saw? BORK???

The saw is looking good.
You should be very excited to put this through it's paces…
I know I would be!!!


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *fence aligned, ZCI fit, etc...*
> 
> I use a Veritas straightedge and feeler gage to align the fence to the slot… I go for parallel and don't let the fence open up on the discharge side…
> 
> ...


I may take a crack at fabricating a riving knife for the saw myself some day…. there's a video out there where a guy did just that, but he obviously had serious metal working skills and tools.

I like the standard style splitter and guard on my old saw well enough…. but I definitely want to rig up DC to the top somehow


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## Handtooler (Jul 24, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *fence aligned, ZCI fit, etc...*
> 
> I use a Veritas straightedge and feeler gage to align the fence to the slot… I go for parallel and don't let the fence open up on the discharge side…
> 
> ...


ssnvet, You've certainly done an Amirable's job on that referb! "Pun intended" Absolutely magnificant. Am I misunderstanding something? Are you left handed? As you have your fence positioned on the left side of the blade with the waste being off cut to the right side. As somewhat of an advenced amature woodworker and being right handed I have usually positioned my fence on the right side of the blade with the off cuts being deposited to the left, there are ocassions when it's necessary to position on the left as you have shown.. Therefore, a serious question arises, I'm deeply considering purchasing the MCLS router table CI extension table, removing the 10" left wing from my Grizzly, G0691, table saw, and installing the 16" router table wing to replace the removed original wing; since the table saw has the long phenoylic extension table already on the right, AM I MAKING A TERRIBLE MISTAKE???? The Grizzly's dust collection port is on the right under the phenoylic table, but I think I will collect dust from the router via a seperate connection on the left and not have both ports open at the same tim which would reduce efficiency.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *fence aligned, ZCI fit, etc...*
> 
> I use a Veritas straightedge and feeler gage to align the fence to the slot… I go for parallel and don't let the fence open up on the discharge side…
> 
> ...


I'm right handed and cut 99% of the time with the fence to the right of the blade… I snapped the pic with fence on the left to show how much room I have to work the router table….

The only thing I'm doing that is at all unique is the way I oriented my router table in the wing….

I think your question is a very good one Russel, but I'm not up on that MLCS table…. I'd suggest starting a thread on the power tools forum with the question, as it will likely generate several responses with differing points of view.

I think shop layout and DC issues will play a big part of the decision.


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## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *fence aligned, ZCI fit, etc...*
> 
> I use a Veritas straightedge and feeler gage to align the fence to the slot… I go for parallel and don't let the fence open up on the discharge side…
> 
> ...


I tried once what you are considering, putting the router table extension on the left instead of on the right like most setups. It did not work out too great.
With the extension on the left, there is little room between the saw blade and router bit opening. When working with smaller parts, I often leave the blade up for cutting, and the router bit setup for whatever I may be doing there. I know this probably isn't correct, but it's what I do. With the extension on the left though, it put things so close that I had to always lower the saw blade to use the router, or lower the router bit to use the saw. This simply did not work for me.
As for being left handed, I am left handed. However, I still normally use me saw fence positioned on the right side of the blade. Because saws are originally designed with right handed people in mind, from my experience, I find it easier to simply get used to using the saw as it's designed. If I used the fence on the left side of the blade, I would not be able to cut wider material unless I basicallt did a redesign and rebuild of the saw. That seems too much trouble for me. Otherwise, I could cut narrow material left handed and wide material right handed. I think it is best to get used to cutting one way all the time when possible.

Mike, I wish I could help you on the blade guard and splitter situation, but I don't even use mine. I have two saws, an antique Craftsman (113 series) and a Ridgid 3650. Both are without guards or splitters. If a reasonably priced riving knife was available, I would love to have that. The splitter that came with my Ridgid though was so cumbersome to use that it often presented more danger than using it than not using it. 
Again, I know it is not proper to use a table saw without all the safety gear attached, but it is a chance I've decided to take myself. I am not recommending that others do the same. I'm simply stating my experience with them. If it were me, on a Jet, I would see if a riving knife was available. They are much safer and can be left on when making non-through cuts.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

ssnvet said:


> *fence aligned, ZCI fit, etc...*
> 
> I use a Veritas straightedge and feeler gage to align the fence to the slot… I go for parallel and don't let the fence open up on the discharge side…
> 
> ...


looking good.

contrary to some beliefs - left handed people don't necessarily use the TS with the fence on the left side of the blade 

I like keeping the left side of the blade free of extensions (beyond the standard 12" or so) as it allows me to stand slightly to the left of the blade and reach beyond the blade on cross cuts without having to reach over the blade.

have you checked BORK (Bolt On Riving Knife) solution for this saw?


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *fence aligned, ZCI fit, etc...*
> 
> I use a Veritas straightedge and feeler gage to align the fence to the slot… I go for parallel and don't let the fence open up on the discharge side…
> 
> ...


I thought that the BORK was getting mixed reviews…. I'll have to do some more research.


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## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *fence aligned, ZCI fit, etc...*
> 
> I use a Veritas straightedge and feeler gage to align the fence to the slot… I go for parallel and don't let the fence open up on the discharge side…
> 
> ...


Was the BORK for this particular saw getting mixed reviews? Or the BORK in general?
Everything I've read about riving knives, I thought they were a much better option than splitters. 
I actually hate the splitter that came with my Ridgid saw. No amount of fine tuning, tightening, adjusting, or even black magic, will keep it performing satisfatorily. I bought my saw second hand and don't know if someone could have tampered with it somehow. I can't tell it if they did, but I just developed a hate for factory installed splitters.

All that being said, I am also a firm believer in common sense wood working. I do not want to get into all the available (ahem!) safety possibilities. I do think though that most accidents can be traced back to not setting up cuts and not thinking them through before flipping the switch. 
The one and only problem I have ever had on my saw that a splitter would have helped on, mine failed miserable. The wood was about four foot long. Apparently there was some internal stress. It started pinching the splitter. I was still able to move the wood, so I thought it was better to keep it moving slowly while I reached to hit the switch and shut it down. I thought it would be safer than trying to come to a dead halt or to back the wood out of a moving blade. Before I could hit the switch, the splitter started wobbling back and forth from the stress, and the wood kicked back. Luckily I seen this one coming and sidestepped it, letting the wood hit the back side of the shop. It could have been worse though and I stopped using the splitter. 
From everything I've read and seen about the riving knife though, I think it would work better and I'd be willing to try it if one was made reasonable priced for my saw.

Maybe I need to try and come up with a way to make my own!


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*Calling it done (for now)*

Put on a Freud Fusion blade and aligned the saw. Put the rule on the fence. Saw is cutting very smoothly.


----------



## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *Calling it done (for now)*
> 
> Put on a Freud Fusion blade and aligned the saw. Put the rule on the fence. Saw is cutting very smoothly.


OK, the saw is DONE!!! Now what???
What will be your first project coming off of this beast?

You must be very excited to start feeding this saw!!!


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Calling it done (for now)*
> 
> Put on a Freud Fusion blade and aligned the saw. Put the rule on the fence. Saw is cutting very smoothly.


I need to figure out what I'm going to do (if anything) for a blade guard.

First project will be an outfeed table with downdraft for sanding.

Then I need to finish my daughters hope chest.


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## blockhead (May 5, 2009)

ssnvet said:


> *Calling it done (for now)*
> 
> Put on a Freud Fusion blade and aligned the saw. Put the rule on the fence. Saw is cutting very smoothly.


Looks great, Matt. All of your hard work has definitely paid off. Well done, enjoy that saw!


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Calling it done (for now)*
> 
> Put on a Freud Fusion blade and aligned the saw. Put the rule on the fence. Saw is cutting very smoothly.


I love having a good blade mounted on a steady arbor that runs true, with the fence lined up to within a couple thousandths of an inch…. When I rip a board, and the tail end of the boar clears the lead edge of the blade, there is absolutely no contact with the blade when it clears the back edge.

I took a gamble with this old saw, as I knew it was used in a shop where the employees don't care much about taking care of the bosses equipment, and then it sat rusting in a storage trailer for several years. I was quite concerned that I would put a lot of labor into the restoration and then be disappointed with the saw in the end.

But happily, it's looking like she still has years of accurate and reliable service left in her.


----------

