# Wooden Models



## htl

*Another toy BullDozer*

Been playing with another wood toy project.
Bought and down loaded the plans for the Bull Dozer from Wood Store Net.
I was looking at the High Gear Dozer from Toys and Joys but you have to order the plans which is fine but I wanted to get started now not two weeks from now.

Well here's what I've got done so far.









Now I'm going to start at the Beginning. LOL
I'm building with Walnut I found while scrounging and Mahogany from a bed also found lumber.
The plans show a flat blade for the front but as I'm doing with a lot of this build I'm taking ideas from the Toys and Joys pictures and making this a little more of a show toy and not a kids play toy.
So I'm cutting out the center of the blade to make it more real to life.

To make the blade I clamped my sliding fence down and just tacked a angled fence to get the cut.
Fast and easy.



























Once I get working I forget to take pictures, and I jump around a lot.
While the blades glued up and drying I worked on the base and as it was drying I built the cabin.
It's pretty cool in my shop so the glue is taking a lot longer to dry.


















Now a little work on the cabin.



























I added the radiator because after I got the base and engine compartment built and started sanding it a large screw hole showed its ugly face so had to come up with a work around or start over, hey I love a good radiator so why not.



















I used store bought wheels they look so much better.
The plans called for 1" wheels down below but Hobby Lobby didn't have any so I got 1 1/2" and made a jig and sanded them down to fit.
I hated to have to make the jig but once it was made the job went really fast and their all just right plus now I have the jig to make my own wheels if I need to.
The more I look at it the better the 1" wheels look.
The stock wheels would have looked like the bigger wheels these look different like their supposed to be there. lol

I would have loved to build the real tracks for this build like on the T&Y build but we'll save that for next time.
I still may buy the T&Y plans mainly for the tracks setup.



































That's all for now thanks for looking in.


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## ArworksIII

htl said:


> *Another toy BullDozer*
> 
> Been playing with another wood toy project.
> Bought and down loaded the plans for the Bull Dozer from Wood Store Net.
> I was looking at the High Gear Dozer from Toys and Joys but you have to order the plans which is fine but I wanted to get started now not two weeks from now.
> 
> Well here's what I've got done so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm going to start at the Beginning. LOL
> I'm building with Walnut I found while scrounging and Mahogany from a bed also found lumber.
> The plans show a flat blade for the front but as I'm doing with a lot of this build I'm taking ideas from the Toys and Joys pictures and making this a little more of a show toy and not a kids play toy.
> So I'm cutting out the center of the blade to make it more real to life.
> 
> To make the blade I clamped my sliding fence down and just tacked a angled fence to get the cut.
> Fast and easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I get working I forget to take pictures, and I jump around a lot.
> While the blades glued up and drying I worked on the base and as it was drying I built the cabin.
> It's pretty cool in my shop so the glue is taking a lot longer to dry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now a little work on the cabin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I added the radiator because after I got the base and engine compartment built and started sanding it a large screw hole showed its ugly face so had to come up with a work around or start over, hey I love a good radiator so why not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used store bought wheels they look so much better.
> The plans called for 1" wheels down below but Hobby Lobby didn't have any so I got 1 1/2" and made a jig and sanded them down to fit.
> I hated to have to make the jig but once it was made the job went really fast and their all just right plus now I have the jig to make my own wheels if I need to.
> The more I look at it the better the 1" wheels look.
> The stock wheels would have looked like the bigger wheels these look different like their supposed to be there. lol
> 
> I would have loved to build the real tracks for this build like on the T&Y build but we'll save that for next time.
> I still may buy the T&Y plans mainly for the tracks setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all for now thanks for looking in.


How are the traks fabricated? Bits and dowels? to emulate the traks? I like all these machines Cheers


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## htl

htl said:


> *Another toy BullDozer*
> 
> Been playing with another wood toy project.
> Bought and down loaded the plans for the Bull Dozer from Wood Store Net.
> I was looking at the High Gear Dozer from Toys and Joys but you have to order the plans which is fine but I wanted to get started now not two weeks from now.
> 
> Well here's what I've got done so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm going to start at the Beginning. LOL
> I'm building with Walnut I found while scrounging and Mahogany from a bed also found lumber.
> The plans show a flat blade for the front but as I'm doing with a lot of this build I'm taking ideas from the Toys and Joys pictures and making this a little more of a show toy and not a kids play toy.
> So I'm cutting out the center of the blade to make it more real to life.
> 
> To make the blade I clamped my sliding fence down and just tacked a angled fence to get the cut.
> Fast and easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I get working I forget to take pictures, and I jump around a lot.
> While the blades glued up and drying I worked on the base and as it was drying I built the cabin.
> It's pretty cool in my shop so the glue is taking a lot longer to dry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now a little work on the cabin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I added the radiator because after I got the base and engine compartment built and started sanding it a large screw hole showed its ugly face so had to come up with a work around or start over, hey I love a good radiator so why not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used store bought wheels they look so much better.
> The plans called for 1" wheels down below but Hobby Lobby didn't have any so I got 1 1/2" and made a jig and sanded them down to fit.
> I hated to have to make the jig but once it was made the job went really fast and their all just right plus now I have the jig to make my own wheels if I need to.
> The more I look at it the better the 1" wheels look.
> The stock wheels would have looked like the bigger wheels these look different like their supposed to be there. lol
> 
> I would have loved to build the real tracks for this build like on the T&Y build but we'll save that for next time.
> I still may buy the T&Y plans mainly for the tracks setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all for now thanks for looking in.


ArworksIII









And you need 50 or more of them. LOL


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## johnstoneb

htl said:


> *Another toy BullDozer*
> 
> Been playing with another wood toy project.
> Bought and down loaded the plans for the Bull Dozer from Wood Store Net.
> I was looking at the High Gear Dozer from Toys and Joys but you have to order the plans which is fine but I wanted to get started now not two weeks from now.
> 
> Well here's what I've got done so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm going to start at the Beginning. LOL
> I'm building with Walnut I found while scrounging and Mahogany from a bed also found lumber.
> The plans show a flat blade for the front but as I'm doing with a lot of this build I'm taking ideas from the Toys and Joys pictures and making this a little more of a show toy and not a kids play toy.
> So I'm cutting out the center of the blade to make it more real to life.
> 
> To make the blade I clamped my sliding fence down and just tacked a angled fence to get the cut.
> Fast and easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I get working I forget to take pictures, and I jump around a lot.
> While the blades glued up and drying I worked on the base and as it was drying I built the cabin.
> It's pretty cool in my shop so the glue is taking a lot longer to dry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now a little work on the cabin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I added the radiator because after I got the base and engine compartment built and started sanding it a large screw hole showed its ugly face so had to come up with a work around or start over, hey I love a good radiator so why not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used store bought wheels they look so much better.
> The plans called for 1" wheels down below but Hobby Lobby didn't have any so I got 1 1/2" and made a jig and sanded them down to fit.
> I hated to have to make the jig but once it was made the job went really fast and their all just right plus now I have the jig to make my own wheels if I need to.
> The more I look at it the better the 1" wheels look.
> The stock wheels would have looked like the bigger wheels these look different like their supposed to be there. lol
> 
> I would have loved to build the real tracks for this build like on the T&Y build but we'll save that for next time.
> I still may buy the T&Y plans mainly for the tracks setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all for now thanks for looking in.


Here is a dozer that was built by another LJ, He used a belt for the tracks. gives the part # in the comments. it looks very real.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Another toy BullDozer*
> 
> Been playing with another wood toy project.
> Bought and down loaded the plans for the Bull Dozer from Wood Store Net.
> I was looking at the High Gear Dozer from Toys and Joys but you have to order the plans which is fine but I wanted to get started now not two weeks from now.
> 
> Well here's what I've got done so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm going to start at the Beginning. LOL
> I'm building with Walnut I found while scrounging and Mahogany from a bed also found lumber.
> The plans show a flat blade for the front but as I'm doing with a lot of this build I'm taking ideas from the Toys and Joys pictures and making this a little more of a show toy and not a kids play toy.
> So I'm cutting out the center of the blade to make it more real to life.
> 
> To make the blade I clamped my sliding fence down and just tacked a angled fence to get the cut.
> Fast and easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I get working I forget to take pictures, and I jump around a lot.
> While the blades glued up and drying I worked on the base and as it was drying I built the cabin.
> It's pretty cool in my shop so the glue is taking a lot longer to dry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now a little work on the cabin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I added the radiator because after I got the base and engine compartment built and started sanding it a large screw hole showed its ugly face so had to come up with a work around or start over, hey I love a good radiator so why not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used store bought wheels they look so much better.
> The plans called for 1" wheels down below but Hobby Lobby didn't have any so I got 1 1/2" and made a jig and sanded them down to fit.
> I hated to have to make the jig but once it was made the job went really fast and their all just right plus now I have the jig to make my own wheels if I need to.
> The more I look at it the better the 1" wheels look.
> The stock wheels would have looked like the bigger wheels these look different like their supposed to be there. lol
> 
> I would have loved to build the real tracks for this build like on the T&Y build but we'll save that for next time.
> I still may buy the T&Y plans mainly for the tracks setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all for now thanks for looking in.


John I looked at your toys and man you've made some really nice ones!!!
Could you please tell me where you saw those belt tracks.


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## johnstoneb

htl said:


> *Another toy BullDozer*
> 
> Been playing with another wood toy project.
> Bought and down loaded the plans for the Bull Dozer from Wood Store Net.
> I was looking at the High Gear Dozer from Toys and Joys but you have to order the plans which is fine but I wanted to get started now not two weeks from now.
> 
> Well here's what I've got done so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm going to start at the Beginning. LOL
> I'm building with Walnut I found while scrounging and Mahogany from a bed also found lumber.
> The plans show a flat blade for the front but as I'm doing with a lot of this build I'm taking ideas from the Toys and Joys pictures and making this a little more of a show toy and not a kids play toy.
> So I'm cutting out the center of the blade to make it more real to life.
> 
> To make the blade I clamped my sliding fence down and just tacked a angled fence to get the cut.
> Fast and easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I get working I forget to take pictures, and I jump around a lot.
> While the blades glued up and drying I worked on the base and as it was drying I built the cabin.
> It's pretty cool in my shop so the glue is taking a lot longer to dry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now a little work on the cabin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I added the radiator because after I got the base and engine compartment built and started sanding it a large screw hole showed its ugly face so had to come up with a work around or start over, hey I love a good radiator so why not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used store bought wheels they look so much better.
> The plans called for 1" wheels down below but Hobby Lobby didn't have any so I got 1 1/2" and made a jig and sanded them down to fit.
> I hated to have to make the jig but once it was made the job went really fast and their all just right plus now I have the jig to make my own wheels if I need to.
> The more I look at it the better the 1" wheels look.
> The stock wheels would have looked like the bigger wheels these look different like their supposed to be there. lol
> 
> I would have loved to build the real tracks for this build like on the T&Y build but we'll save that for next time.
> I still may buy the T&Y plans mainly for the tracks setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all for now thanks for looking in.


I forgot to post the link, sorry.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/151994

Its about comment # 14.

Thank You my grandson really enjoys them.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Another toy BullDozer*
> 
> Been playing with another wood toy project.
> Bought and down loaded the plans for the Bull Dozer from Wood Store Net.
> I was looking at the High Gear Dozer from Toys and Joys but you have to order the plans which is fine but I wanted to get started now not two weeks from now.
> 
> Well here's what I've got done so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm going to start at the Beginning. LOL
> I'm building with Walnut I found while scrounging and Mahogany from a bed also found lumber.
> The plans show a flat blade for the front but as I'm doing with a lot of this build I'm taking ideas from the Toys and Joys pictures and making this a little more of a show toy and not a kids play toy.
> So I'm cutting out the center of the blade to make it more real to life.
> 
> To make the blade I clamped my sliding fence down and just tacked a angled fence to get the cut.
> Fast and easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I get working I forget to take pictures, and I jump around a lot.
> While the blades glued up and drying I worked on the base and as it was drying I built the cabin.
> It's pretty cool in my shop so the glue is taking a lot longer to dry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now a little work on the cabin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I added the radiator because after I got the base and engine compartment built and started sanding it a large screw hole showed its ugly face so had to come up with a work around or start over, hey I love a good radiator so why not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used store bought wheels they look so much better.
> The plans called for 1" wheels down below but Hobby Lobby didn't have any so I got 1 1/2" and made a jig and sanded them down to fit.
> I hated to have to make the jig but once it was made the job went really fast and their all just right plus now I have the jig to make my own wheels if I need to.
> The more I look at it the better the 1" wheels look.
> The stock wheels would have looked like the bigger wheels these look different like their supposed to be there. lol
> 
> I would have loved to build the real tracks for this build like on the T&Y build but we'll save that for next time.
> I still may buy the T&Y plans mainly for the tracks setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all for now thanks for looking in.


Thanks John
I had seen it once awhile back but wasn't able to find it again.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Another toy BullDozer*
> 
> Been playing with another wood toy project.
> Bought and down loaded the plans for the Bull Dozer from Wood Store Net.
> I was looking at the High Gear Dozer from Toys and Joys but you have to order the plans which is fine but I wanted to get started now not two weeks from now.
> 
> Well here's what I've got done so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm going to start at the Beginning. LOL
> I'm building with Walnut I found while scrounging and Mahogany from a bed also found lumber.
> The plans show a flat blade for the front but as I'm doing with a lot of this build I'm taking ideas from the Toys and Joys pictures and making this a little more of a show toy and not a kids play toy.
> So I'm cutting out the center of the blade to make it more real to life.
> 
> To make the blade I clamped my sliding fence down and just tacked a angled fence to get the cut.
> Fast and easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I get working I forget to take pictures, and I jump around a lot.
> While the blades glued up and drying I worked on the base and as it was drying I built the cabin.
> It's pretty cool in my shop so the glue is taking a lot longer to dry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now a little work on the cabin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I added the radiator because after I got the base and engine compartment built and started sanding it a large screw hole showed its ugly face so had to come up with a work around or start over, hey I love a good radiator so why not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used store bought wheels they look so much better.
> The plans called for 1" wheels down below but Hobby Lobby didn't have any so I got 1 1/2" and made a jig and sanded them down to fit.
> I hated to have to make the jig but once it was made the job went really fast and their all just right plus now I have the jig to make my own wheels if I need to.
> The more I look at it the better the 1" wheels look.
> The stock wheels would have looked like the bigger wheels these look different like their supposed to be there. lol
> 
> I would have loved to build the real tracks for this build like on the T&Y build but we'll save that for next time.
> I still may buy the T&Y plans mainly for the tracks setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all for now thanks for looking in.


Love the way you've personalized the build with some clever beautiful additions sir…..


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## robscastle

htl said:


> *Another toy BullDozer*
> 
> Been playing with another wood toy project.
> Bought and down loaded the plans for the Bull Dozer from Wood Store Net.
> I was looking at the High Gear Dozer from Toys and Joys but you have to order the plans which is fine but I wanted to get started now not two weeks from now.
> 
> Well here's what I've got done so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm going to start at the Beginning. LOL
> I'm building with Walnut I found while scrounging and Mahogany from a bed also found lumber.
> The plans show a flat blade for the front but as I'm doing with a lot of this build I'm taking ideas from the Toys and Joys pictures and making this a little more of a show toy and not a kids play toy.
> So I'm cutting out the center of the blade to make it more real to life.
> 
> To make the blade I clamped my sliding fence down and just tacked a angled fence to get the cut.
> Fast and easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I get working I forget to take pictures, and I jump around a lot.
> While the blades glued up and drying I worked on the base and as it was drying I built the cabin.
> It's pretty cool in my shop so the glue is taking a lot longer to dry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now a little work on the cabin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I added the radiator because after I got the base and engine compartment built and started sanding it a large screw hole showed its ugly face so had to come up with a work around or start over, hey I love a good radiator so why not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used store bought wheels they look so much better.
> The plans called for 1" wheels down below but Hobby Lobby didn't have any so I got 1 1/2" and made a jig and sanded them down to fit.
> I hated to have to make the jig but once it was made the job went really fast and their all just right plus now I have the jig to make my own wheels if I need to.
> The more I look at it the better the 1" wheels look.
> The stock wheels would have looked like the bigger wheels these look different like their supposed to be there. lol
> 
> I would have loved to build the real tracks for this build like on the T&Y build but we'll save that for next time.
> I still may buy the T&Y plans mainly for the tracks setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all for now thanks for looking in.


Track links
I think LBD could crank out a few if you patted him nicely.
I dont think I could do them by hand without needing restraining half way through!
Possibly something to consider for the crane.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Another toy BullDozer*
> 
> Been playing with another wood toy project.
> Bought and down loaded the plans for the Bull Dozer from Wood Store Net.
> I was looking at the High Gear Dozer from Toys and Joys but you have to order the plans which is fine but I wanted to get started now not two weeks from now.
> 
> Well here's what I've got done so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm going to start at the Beginning. LOL
> I'm building with Walnut I found while scrounging and Mahogany from a bed also found lumber.
> The plans show a flat blade for the front but as I'm doing with a lot of this build I'm taking ideas from the Toys and Joys pictures and making this a little more of a show toy and not a kids play toy.
> So I'm cutting out the center of the blade to make it more real to life.
> 
> To make the blade I clamped my sliding fence down and just tacked a angled fence to get the cut.
> Fast and easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I get working I forget to take pictures, and I jump around a lot.
> While the blades glued up and drying I worked on the base and as it was drying I built the cabin.
> It's pretty cool in my shop so the glue is taking a lot longer to dry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now a little work on the cabin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I added the radiator because after I got the base and engine compartment built and started sanding it a large screw hole showed its ugly face so had to come up with a work around or start over, hey I love a good radiator so why not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used store bought wheels they look so much better.
> The plans called for 1" wheels down below but Hobby Lobby didn't have any so I got 1 1/2" and made a jig and sanded them down to fit.
> I hated to have to make the jig but once it was made the job went really fast and their all just right plus now I have the jig to make my own wheels if I need to.
> The more I look at it the better the 1" wheels look.
> The stock wheels would have looked like the bigger wheels these look different like their supposed to be there. lol
> 
> I would have loved to build the real tracks for this build like on the T&Y build but we'll save that for next time.
> I still may buy the T&Y plans mainly for the tracks setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all for now thanks for looking in.


robscastle This was one of my first builds and hadn't got into tracks yet since then I've built two sets.
You need to check out my other blogs and projects.


----------



## robscastle

htl said:


> *Another toy BullDozer*
> 
> Been playing with another wood toy project.
> Bought and down loaded the plans for the Bull Dozer from Wood Store Net.
> I was looking at the High Gear Dozer from Toys and Joys but you have to order the plans which is fine but I wanted to get started now not two weeks from now.
> 
> Well here's what I've got done so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm going to start at the Beginning. LOL
> I'm building with Walnut I found while scrounging and Mahogany from a bed also found lumber.
> The plans show a flat blade for the front but as I'm doing with a lot of this build I'm taking ideas from the Toys and Joys pictures and making this a little more of a show toy and not a kids play toy.
> So I'm cutting out the center of the blade to make it more real to life.
> 
> To make the blade I clamped my sliding fence down and just tacked a angled fence to get the cut.
> Fast and easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I get working I forget to take pictures, and I jump around a lot.
> While the blades glued up and drying I worked on the base and as it was drying I built the cabin.
> It's pretty cool in my shop so the glue is taking a lot longer to dry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now a little work on the cabin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I added the radiator because after I got the base and engine compartment built and started sanding it a large screw hole showed its ugly face so had to come up with a work around or start over, hey I love a good radiator so why not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used store bought wheels they look so much better.
> The plans called for 1" wheels down below but Hobby Lobby didn't have any so I got 1 1/2" and made a jig and sanded them down to fit.
> I hated to have to make the jig but once it was made the job went really fast and their all just right plus now I have the jig to make my own wheels if I need to.
> The more I look at it the better the 1" wheels look.
> The stock wheels would have looked like the bigger wheels these look different like their supposed to be there. lol
> 
> I would have loved to build the real tracks for this build like on the T&Y build but we'll save that for next time.
> I still may buy the T&Y plans mainly for the tracks setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all for now thanks for looking in.


Oh boy there are some dummies on this site! I just saw the 2015 
I did check out your othe blogs and projects, all are of exceptional craftsmanship, loved the wooden PC Box!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Another toy BullDozer*
> 
> Been playing with another wood toy project.
> Bought and down loaded the plans for the Bull Dozer from Wood Store Net.
> I was looking at the High Gear Dozer from Toys and Joys but you have to order the plans which is fine but I wanted to get started now not two weeks from now.
> 
> Well here's what I've got done so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm going to start at the Beginning. LOL
> I'm building with Walnut I found while scrounging and Mahogany from a bed also found lumber.
> The plans show a flat blade for the front but as I'm doing with a lot of this build I'm taking ideas from the Toys and Joys pictures and making this a little more of a show toy and not a kids play toy.
> So I'm cutting out the center of the blade to make it more real to life.
> 
> To make the blade I clamped my sliding fence down and just tacked a angled fence to get the cut.
> Fast and easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I get working I forget to take pictures, and I jump around a lot.
> While the blades glued up and drying I worked on the base and as it was drying I built the cabin.
> It's pretty cool in my shop so the glue is taking a lot longer to dry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now a little work on the cabin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I added the radiator because after I got the base and engine compartment built and started sanding it a large screw hole showed its ugly face so had to come up with a work around or start over, hey I love a good radiator so why not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used store bought wheels they look so much better.
> The plans called for 1" wheels down below but Hobby Lobby didn't have any so I got 1 1/2" and made a jig and sanded them down to fit.
> I hated to have to make the jig but once it was made the job went really fast and their all just right plus now I have the jig to make my own wheels if I need to.
> The more I look at it the better the 1" wheels look.
> The stock wheels would have looked like the bigger wheels these look different like their supposed to be there. lol
> 
> I would have loved to build the real tracks for this build like on the T&Y build but we'll save that for next time.
> I still may buy the T&Y plans mainly for the tracks setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all for now thanks for looking in.


There aren't any dummies here just some that haven't been paying attention. LOL
rob I've never ever done that before. Not!
I keep going on Pinterest and finding links to this site to great projects way back 6 or so years ago that if you do a search you can't seem to find for some reason.


----------



## htl

*Getting the push blade set 2*

Well I played around with it some more figured out the pins for the push blade arm, if that's what it's called??? And glued on the fake tracks and added what was left of the radiator to fill a hole in the back.

















I'm trying to make some hydraulics for the push arms.

It's funny, I could have had it nearly done but no I had to play with them hydraulics and used up the whole day.


----------



## johnstoneb

htl said:


> *Getting the push blade set 2*
> 
> Well I played around with it some more figured out the pins for the push blade arm, if that's what it's called??? And glued on the fake tracks and added what was left of the radiator to fill a hole in the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm trying to make some hydraulics for the push arms.
> 
> It's funny, I could have had it nearly done but no I had to play with them hydraulics and used up the whole day.


Some times you just can't stop.


----------



## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Getting the push blade set 2*
> 
> Well I played around with it some more figured out the pins for the push blade arm, if that's what it's called??? And glued on the fake tracks and added what was left of the radiator to fill a hole in the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm trying to make some hydraulics for the push arms.
> 
> It's funny, I could have had it nearly done but no I had to play with them hydraulics and used up the whole day.


You are making a fantastic rendition!

Do not know if it is going to be "Too nice to play with?"

Looks like a display piece with way too many hours in it to play with!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Getting the push blade set 2*
> 
> Well I played around with it some more figured out the pins for the push blade arm, if that's what it's called??? And glued on the fake tracks and added what was left of the radiator to fill a hole in the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm trying to make some hydraulics for the push arms.
> 
> It's funny, I could have had it nearly done but no I had to play with them hydraulics and used up the whole day.


Thanks ralbuck 
I'm retired so have the time, I've put 3, 4 days in to building it.
It's really about the build to me I love to figure things out.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Getting the push blade set 2*
> 
> Well I played around with it some more figured out the pins for the push blade arm, if that's what it's called??? And glued on the fake tracks and added what was left of the radiator to fill a hole in the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm trying to make some hydraulics for the push arms.
> 
> It's funny, I could have had it nearly done but no I had to play with them hydraulics and used up the whole day.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Getting the push blade set 2*
> 
> Well I played around with it some more figured out the pins for the push blade arm, if that's what it's called??? And glued on the fake tracks and added what was left of the radiator to fill a hole in the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm trying to make some hydraulics for the push arms.
> 
> It's funny, I could have had it nearly done but no I had to play with them hydraulics and used up the whole day.


Now that's clever woodwork engineering….well done sir….


----------



## htl

*Building a Tower Crane day 1*

I got started on a *tower crane* today while I wait for my Toys and Joys plans to get here for the Excavator.
I've got the plans for the Woodstore.net *Excavator* but I want to try my hand at making the tracks and could probable figure them out but why reinvent the wheel when all I have to do is wait a couple a days and get it right.

*I know there's a lot of info here but I figure if your looking at this blog your interested in how it was built or may be getting ready to make your own.*

While I was building the Dozer I kept seeing the tower crane on one of the plan sheets and it looks simple and I've got a bucket of mahogany 24" slates that were part of a crib I scrounged up awhile back so it's tower crane time.









Yesterday I got on google and did a search for cranes and came up with this one page plan [on the wood store sight it was free] which showed the width and length of the base. 4 1/2" x 11" 
That's all I really need cause the height will be the length of the slates I've got 24".
This will mostly be made out of mahogany scraps what little walnut I've got left I want to save for the excavator.
Here we go with the wheel base.
I used a 2×4 for the center part and added mahogany to widen it and hide the pine.
You can see the plans in the back ground.








Then I glued up the base for the tower.
I'm using 3/8 dowels to mount all the parts.
On the store bought plans everything would be made with 3/4 lumber but my slates are 3/8 so I just tripled up on the parts which just adds to the look I think.

















The tower and the crane arm are not glued in yet.
I'm building this as I go so need to be able to take it apart if something doesn't look right and needs to be changed.

















The control room will be glued to the main tower and is used as a stop for the arm.
There's no need for it to go any lower.
I'm thinking about not having the drop for the cable in one stationary place out on the end of the arm.
May make it like a real tower crane where the cable can be brought closer to the tower to pick things up.
I hope that make sense?








There's not to many extra things you can add to this project.










Next I'll be figuring out the pulleys and cranks.
Need to add some counter weights.
and I think I'm going to make some wheels???
A really crane like this wouldn't have wheels but hey it's a toy, but for a little realisom I may add some of those hydraulic out rigger arms so it won't tip over if you turn it to the right or left, we need to do something to spruce it up. lol
I'm having fun hope you are.


----------



## johnstoneb

htl said:


> *Building a Tower Crane day 1*
> 
> I got started on a *tower crane* today while I wait for my Toys and Joys plans to get here for the Excavator.
> I've got the plans for the Woodstore.net *Excavator* but I want to try my hand at making the tracks and could probable figure them out but why reinvent the wheel when all I have to do is wait a couple a days and get it right.
> 
> *I know there's a lot of info here but I figure if your looking at this blog your interested in how it was built or may be getting ready to make your own.*
> 
> While I was building the Dozer I kept seeing the tower crane on one of the plan sheets and it looks simple and I've got a bucket of mahogany 24" slates that were part of a crib I scrounged up awhile back so it's tower crane time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday I got on google and did a search for cranes and came up with this one page plan [on the wood store sight it was free] which showed the width and length of the base. 4 1/2" x 11"
> That's all I really need cause the height will be the length of the slates I've got 24".
> This will mostly be made out of mahogany scraps what little walnut I've got left I want to save for the excavator.
> Here we go with the wheel base.
> I used a 2×4 for the center part and added mahogany to widen it and hide the pine.
> You can see the plans in the back ground.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I glued up the base for the tower.
> I'm using 3/8 dowels to mount all the parts.
> On the store bought plans everything would be made with 3/4 lumber but my slates are 3/8 so I just tripled up on the parts which just adds to the look I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tower and the crane arm are not glued in yet.
> I'm building this as I go so need to be able to take it apart if something doesn't look right and needs to be changed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The control room will be glued to the main tower and is used as a stop for the arm.
> There's no need for it to go any lower.
> I'm thinking about not having the drop for the cable in one stationary place out on the end of the arm.
> May make it like a real tower crane where the cable can be brought closer to the tower to pick things up.
> I hope that make sense?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's not to many extra things you can add to this project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I'll be figuring out the pulleys and cranks.
> Need to add some counter weights.
> and I think I'm going to make some wheels???
> A really crane like this wouldn't have wheels but hey it's a toy, but for a little realisom I may add some of those hydraulic out rigger arms so it won't tip over if you turn it to the right or left, we need to do something to spruce it up. lol
> I'm having fun hope you are.


Do not use the lazy susan hardware for the pivot. It wobbles too much. It would be better to use a dowel for the pivot or an axle for a wheel. I built that and the lazy susan hardware is a weak point. Your modifications will make that into a very realistic toy.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Building a Tower Crane day 1*
> 
> I got started on a *tower crane* today while I wait for my Toys and Joys plans to get here for the Excavator.
> I've got the plans for the Woodstore.net *Excavator* but I want to try my hand at making the tracks and could probable figure them out but why reinvent the wheel when all I have to do is wait a couple a days and get it right.
> 
> *I know there's a lot of info here but I figure if your looking at this blog your interested in how it was built or may be getting ready to make your own.*
> 
> While I was building the Dozer I kept seeing the tower crane on one of the plan sheets and it looks simple and I've got a bucket of mahogany 24" slates that were part of a crib I scrounged up awhile back so it's tower crane time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday I got on google and did a search for cranes and came up with this one page plan [on the wood store sight it was free] which showed the width and length of the base. 4 1/2" x 11"
> That's all I really need cause the height will be the length of the slates I've got 24".
> This will mostly be made out of mahogany scraps what little walnut I've got left I want to save for the excavator.
> Here we go with the wheel base.
> I used a 2×4 for the center part and added mahogany to widen it and hide the pine.
> You can see the plans in the back ground.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I glued up the base for the tower.
> I'm using 3/8 dowels to mount all the parts.
> On the store bought plans everything would be made with 3/4 lumber but my slates are 3/8 so I just tripled up on the parts which just adds to the look I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tower and the crane arm are not glued in yet.
> I'm building this as I go so need to be able to take it apart if something doesn't look right and needs to be changed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The control room will be glued to the main tower and is used as a stop for the arm.
> There's no need for it to go any lower.
> I'm thinking about not having the drop for the cable in one stationary place out on the end of the arm.
> May make it like a real tower crane where the cable can be brought closer to the tower to pick things up.
> I hope that make sense?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's not to many extra things you can add to this project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I'll be figuring out the pulleys and cranks.
> Need to add some counter weights.
> and I think I'm going to make some wheels???
> A really crane like this wouldn't have wheels but hey it's a toy, but for a little realisom I may add some of those hydraulic out rigger arms so it won't tip over if you turn it to the right or left, we need to do something to spruce it up. lol
> I'm having fun hope you are.


Thanks Johnstoneb
I kind a wondered about that and didn't what to buy it any way LOL.
This it just a side project so just using scraps.
Now that I've got it up it looks like it well be a ball to play with.
Thanks again for the heads up!!!


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Building a Tower Crane day 1*
> 
> I got started on a *tower crane* today while I wait for my Toys and Joys plans to get here for the Excavator.
> I've got the plans for the Woodstore.net *Excavator* but I want to try my hand at making the tracks and could probable figure them out but why reinvent the wheel when all I have to do is wait a couple a days and get it right.
> 
> *I know there's a lot of info here but I figure if your looking at this blog your interested in how it was built or may be getting ready to make your own.*
> 
> While I was building the Dozer I kept seeing the tower crane on one of the plan sheets and it looks simple and I've got a bucket of mahogany 24" slates that were part of a crib I scrounged up awhile back so it's tower crane time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday I got on google and did a search for cranes and came up with this one page plan [on the wood store sight it was free] which showed the width and length of the base. 4 1/2" x 11"
> That's all I really need cause the height will be the length of the slates I've got 24".
> This will mostly be made out of mahogany scraps what little walnut I've got left I want to save for the excavator.
> Here we go with the wheel base.
> I used a 2×4 for the center part and added mahogany to widen it and hide the pine.
> You can see the plans in the back ground.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I glued up the base for the tower.
> I'm using 3/8 dowels to mount all the parts.
> On the store bought plans everything would be made with 3/4 lumber but my slates are 3/8 so I just tripled up on the parts which just adds to the look I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tower and the crane arm are not glued in yet.
> I'm building this as I go so need to be able to take it apart if something doesn't look right and needs to be changed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The control room will be glued to the main tower and is used as a stop for the arm.
> There's no need for it to go any lower.
> I'm thinking about not having the drop for the cable in one stationary place out on the end of the arm.
> May make it like a real tower crane where the cable can be brought closer to the tower to pick things up.
> I hope that make sense?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's not to many extra things you can add to this project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I'll be figuring out the pulleys and cranks.
> Need to add some counter weights.
> and I think I'm going to make some wheels???
> A really crane like this wouldn't have wheels but hey it's a toy, but for a little realisom I may add some of those hydraulic out rigger arms so it won't tip over if you turn it to the right or left, we need to do something to spruce it up. lol
> I'm having fun hope you are.


Looking good Bruce… like the personalization modifications….


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Building a Tower Crane day 1*
> 
> I got started on a *tower crane* today while I wait for my Toys and Joys plans to get here for the Excavator.
> I've got the plans for the Woodstore.net *Excavator* but I want to try my hand at making the tracks and could probable figure them out but why reinvent the wheel when all I have to do is wait a couple a days and get it right.
> 
> *I know there's a lot of info here but I figure if your looking at this blog your interested in how it was built or may be getting ready to make your own.*
> 
> While I was building the Dozer I kept seeing the tower crane on one of the plan sheets and it looks simple and I've got a bucket of mahogany 24" slates that were part of a crib I scrounged up awhile back so it's tower crane time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday I got on google and did a search for cranes and came up with this one page plan [on the wood store sight it was free] which showed the width and length of the base. 4 1/2" x 11"
> That's all I really need cause the height will be the length of the slates I've got 24".
> This will mostly be made out of mahogany scraps what little walnut I've got left I want to save for the excavator.
> Here we go with the wheel base.
> I used a 2×4 for the center part and added mahogany to widen it and hide the pine.
> You can see the plans in the back ground.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I glued up the base for the tower.
> I'm using 3/8 dowels to mount all the parts.
> On the store bought plans everything would be made with 3/4 lumber but my slates are 3/8 so I just tripled up on the parts which just adds to the look I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tower and the crane arm are not glued in yet.
> I'm building this as I go so need to be able to take it apart if something doesn't look right and needs to be changed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The control room will be glued to the main tower and is used as a stop for the arm.
> There's no need for it to go any lower.
> I'm thinking about not having the drop for the cable in one stationary place out on the end of the arm.
> May make it like a real tower crane where the cable can be brought closer to the tower to pick things up.
> I hope that make sense?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's not to many extra things you can add to this project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I'll be figuring out the pulleys and cranks.
> Need to add some counter weights.
> and I think I'm going to make some wheels???
> A really crane like this wouldn't have wheels but hey it's a toy, but for a little realisom I may add some of those hydraulic out rigger arms so it won't tip over if you turn it to the right or left, we need to do something to spruce it up. lol
> I'm having fun hope you are.


Thank crowie I went down under to the woodworkforums.com and there are some out standing builds there. 
The alien 1-5 ones is so cool.
And 9 fingers is great but we won't forget yours. lol


----------



## htl

*Tower build day two*

Did a bunch a sanding.
I'm big on getting things sanded but it's o so hard stopping in the middle of building to sand the stuff that will be easier now then later.
Built the counter weight sliding pulley bracket and router a bunch a holes.
Then sand sand sand.










I was warned "Do not use the lazy Susan hardware for the pivot. It wobbles too much." 
I really didn't want to go with the plans on that so glad for the heads up!!!
So here's what I'm going to do.
By doing it this way I can adjust the tightness with just a turn of the crank.











































I'll make an extra tire to use as the handle.

I played a little with making a wheel and no problem so that's what I'll be doing tomorrow.
So here's an over all and I'm out of here.
Have a good evening.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Tower build day two*
> 
> Did a bunch a sanding.
> I'm big on getting things sanded but it's o so hard stopping in the middle of building to sand the stuff that will be easier now then later.
> Built the counter weight sliding pulley bracket and router a bunch a holes.
> Then sand sand sand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was warned "Do not use the lazy Susan hardware for the pivot. It wobbles too much."
> I really didn't want to go with the plans on that so glad for the heads up!!!
> So here's what I'm going to do.
> By doing it this way I can adjust the tightness with just a turn of the crank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll make an extra tire to use as the handle.
> 
> I played a little with making a wheel and no problem so that's what I'll be doing tomorrow.
> So here's an over all and I'm out of here.
> Have a good evening.


G'day Bruce, 
I did use the "lazy susan" with an Aussie Hardwood construction of the crane and so far it's held together BUT I do like your alternative heaps better, so much more positively secured.
Also love the modifications and personalization of the crane you are doing…WELL DONE SIR…


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Tower build day two*
> 
> Did a bunch a sanding.
> I'm big on getting things sanded but it's o so hard stopping in the middle of building to sand the stuff that will be easier now then later.
> Built the counter weight sliding pulley bracket and router a bunch a holes.
> Then sand sand sand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was warned "Do not use the lazy Susan hardware for the pivot. It wobbles too much."
> I really didn't want to go with the plans on that so glad for the heads up!!!
> So here's what I'm going to do.
> By doing it this way I can adjust the tightness with just a turn of the crank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll make an extra tire to use as the handle.
> 
> I played a little with making a wheel and no problem so that's what I'll be doing tomorrow.
> So here's an over all and I'm out of here.
> Have a good evening.


it's o so hard stopping in the middle of building to sand the stuff that will be easier now then later. When you get older it will be easier. One of benefit's of getting older


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Tower build day two*
> 
> Did a bunch a sanding.
> I'm big on getting things sanded but it's o so hard stopping in the middle of building to sand the stuff that will be easier now then later.
> Built the counter weight sliding pulley bracket and router a bunch a holes.
> Then sand sand sand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was warned "Do not use the lazy Susan hardware for the pivot. It wobbles too much."
> I really didn't want to go with the plans on that so glad for the heads up!!!
> So here's what I'm going to do.
> By doing it this way I can adjust the tightness with just a turn of the crank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll make an extra tire to use as the handle.
> 
> I played a little with making a wheel and no problem so that's what I'll be doing tomorrow.
> So here's an over all and I'm out of here.
> Have a good evening.


Dutchy I'm 66 years old how much older do I need to get before it gets easier. LOL!!!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Tower build day two*
> 
> Did a bunch a sanding.
> I'm big on getting things sanded but it's o so hard stopping in the middle of building to sand the stuff that will be easier now then later.
> Built the counter weight sliding pulley bracket and router a bunch a holes.
> Then sand sand sand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was warned "Do not use the lazy Susan hardware for the pivot. It wobbles too much."
> I really didn't want to go with the plans on that so glad for the heads up!!!
> So here's what I'm going to do.
> By doing it this way I can adjust the tightness with just a turn of the crank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll make an extra tire to use as the handle.
> 
> I played a little with making a wheel and no problem so that's what I'll be doing tomorrow.
> So here's an over all and I'm out of here.
> Have a good evening.


I would have liked the bolt to have been in the center of the base but if I did that the crank wouldn't have worked.
Hey if you need to pick up something behind the crane drive around.
I just had a thought instead of a tire make a steering wheel for the bolt.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Tower build day two*
> 
> Did a bunch a sanding.
> I'm big on getting things sanded but it's o so hard stopping in the middle of building to sand the stuff that will be easier now then later.
> Built the counter weight sliding pulley bracket and router a bunch a holes.
> Then sand sand sand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was warned "Do not use the lazy Susan hardware for the pivot. It wobbles too much."
> I really didn't want to go with the plans on that so glad for the heads up!!!
> So here's what I'm going to do.
> By doing it this way I can adjust the tightness with just a turn of the crank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll make an extra tire to use as the handle.
> 
> I played a little with making a wheel and no problem so that's what I'll be doing tomorrow.
> So here's an over all and I'm out of here.
> Have a good evening.


I need to clear something up I didn't route out the holes I drilled them then shaped them with the router.


----------



## htl

*Crane Tower day 3&4*

Making wheels
I've never really took time to make any wheels for my toys so it's a great time to learn what I can do with the few tool I have.
I cut out the wheels with a hole saw then made a jig to sand them smooth and round.
I made a jig to cut out the tread and used the router but the treads would need a ton a sanding so using the same jig I tried it on the table saw and with a skill saw thin cut blade they turned out with a much cleaner tread.









Drilled out the center of the wheel for axle cover and lug bolts.
I first drilled the lug bolts into the wheel it self but there was no way to get the center of the hole sanded good enough and the small lug bolts all the same so drilled it out deeper and put an insert with the bolts on it. Much cleaner look.









I found this pattern on the web and set my printer to put 12 or more pages on the same paper and got just the size I needed for the wheels.
Drilling out for the lug bolts on the wheel.
I made the first one I made a pattern and used tooth picks to keep them aligned as I drilled, double side tape would have been better but didn't have any.








I made 17 wheels in all. 4 I used for testing out my different jigs and ended up with 13 usable wheels.








When I was building doll houses I asked my wife to buy me a box a tooth picks and she brought home 4 boxes, well she done good cause I've found a use for them, they make great lug bolts.








Well here's what two days of playing with wheel parts got done. 
I guess I should say 3 days cause that's just one wheel near finished still have to get the rest up to snuff.
Had a ball figuring these out.








Here's the difference between home made and store bought.
Bigger badder and Heavy Duty for the tower crane. lol
Well have 4 extra wheel for some other project???


----------



## bearkatwood

htl said:


> *Crane Tower day 3&4*
> 
> Making wheels
> I've never really took time to make any wheels for my toys so it's a great time to learn what I can do with the few tool I have.
> I cut out the wheels with a hole saw then made a jig to sand them smooth and round.
> I made a jig to cut out the tread and used the router but the treads would need a ton a sanding so using the same jig I tried it on the table saw and with a skill saw thin cut blade they turned out with a much cleaner tread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled out the center of the wheel for axle cover and lug bolts.
> I first drilled the lug bolts into the wheel it self but there was no way to get the center of the hole sanded good enough and the small lug bolts all the same so drilled it out deeper and put an insert with the bolts on it. Much cleaner look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found this pattern on the web and set my printer to put 12 or more pages on the same paper and got just the size I needed for the wheels.
> Drilling out for the lug bolts on the wheel.
> I made the first one I made a pattern and used tooth picks to keep them aligned as I drilled, double side tape would have been better but didn't have any.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made 17 wheels in all. 4 I used for testing out my different jigs and ended up with 13 usable wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I was building doll houses I asked my wife to buy me a box a tooth picks and she brought home 4 boxes, well she done good cause I've found a use for them, they make great lug bolts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well here's what two days of playing with wheel parts got done.
> I guess I should say 3 days cause that's just one wheel near finished still have to get the rest up to snuff.
> Had a ball figuring these out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the difference between home made and store bought.
> Bigger badder and Heavy Duty for the tower crane. lol
> Well have 4 extra wheel for some other project???


With the tooth picks in there they look like torture devices. Nice job, makes me wish I was a kid again.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Crane Tower day 3&4*
> 
> Making wheels
> I've never really took time to make any wheels for my toys so it's a great time to learn what I can do with the few tool I have.
> I cut out the wheels with a hole saw then made a jig to sand them smooth and round.
> I made a jig to cut out the tread and used the router but the treads would need a ton a sanding so using the same jig I tried it on the table saw and with a skill saw thin cut blade they turned out with a much cleaner tread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled out the center of the wheel for axle cover and lug bolts.
> I first drilled the lug bolts into the wheel it self but there was no way to get the center of the hole sanded good enough and the small lug bolts all the same so drilled it out deeper and put an insert with the bolts on it. Much cleaner look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found this pattern on the web and set my printer to put 12 or more pages on the same paper and got just the size I needed for the wheels.
> Drilling out for the lug bolts on the wheel.
> I made the first one I made a pattern and used tooth picks to keep them aligned as I drilled, double side tape would have been better but didn't have any.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made 17 wheels in all. 4 I used for testing out my different jigs and ended up with 13 usable wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I was building doll houses I asked my wife to buy me a box a tooth picks and she brought home 4 boxes, well she done good cause I've found a use for them, they make great lug bolts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well here's what two days of playing with wheel parts got done.
> I guess I should say 3 days cause that's just one wheel near finished still have to get the rest up to snuff.
> Had a ball figuring these out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the difference between home made and store bought.
> Bigger badder and Heavy Duty for the tower crane. lol
> Well have 4 extra wheel for some other project???


bearkatwood it was torture drilling all them little bitty holes then gluing it all up with out getting glue all over every thing. lol
Thank for looking in.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Crane Tower day 3&4*
> 
> Making wheels
> I've never really took time to make any wheels for my toys so it's a great time to learn what I can do with the few tool I have.
> I cut out the wheels with a hole saw then made a jig to sand them smooth and round.
> I made a jig to cut out the tread and used the router but the treads would need a ton a sanding so using the same jig I tried it on the table saw and with a skill saw thin cut blade they turned out with a much cleaner tread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled out the center of the wheel for axle cover and lug bolts.
> I first drilled the lug bolts into the wheel it self but there was no way to get the center of the hole sanded good enough and the small lug bolts all the same so drilled it out deeper and put an insert with the bolts on it. Much cleaner look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found this pattern on the web and set my printer to put 12 or more pages on the same paper and got just the size I needed for the wheels.
> Drilling out for the lug bolts on the wheel.
> I made the first one I made a pattern and used tooth picks to keep them aligned as I drilled, double side tape would have been better but didn't have any.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made 17 wheels in all. 4 I used for testing out my different jigs and ended up with 13 usable wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I was building doll houses I asked my wife to buy me a box a tooth picks and she brought home 4 boxes, well she done good cause I've found a use for them, they make great lug bolts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well here's what two days of playing with wheel parts got done.
> I guess I should say 3 days cause that's just one wheel near finished still have to get the rest up to snuff.
> Had a ball figuring these out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the difference between home made and store bought.
> Bigger badder and Heavy Duty for the tower crane. lol
> Well have 4 extra wheel for some other project???


How long is the brake stopping distance?


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Crane Tower day 3&4*
> 
> Making wheels
> I've never really took time to make any wheels for my toys so it's a great time to learn what I can do with the few tool I have.
> I cut out the wheels with a hole saw then made a jig to sand them smooth and round.
> I made a jig to cut out the tread and used the router but the treads would need a ton a sanding so using the same jig I tried it on the table saw and with a skill saw thin cut blade they turned out with a much cleaner tread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled out the center of the wheel for axle cover and lug bolts.
> I first drilled the lug bolts into the wheel it self but there was no way to get the center of the hole sanded good enough and the small lug bolts all the same so drilled it out deeper and put an insert with the bolts on it. Much cleaner look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found this pattern on the web and set my printer to put 12 or more pages on the same paper and got just the size I needed for the wheels.
> Drilling out for the lug bolts on the wheel.
> I made the first one I made a pattern and used tooth picks to keep them aligned as I drilled, double side tape would have been better but didn't have any.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made 17 wheels in all. 4 I used for testing out my different jigs and ended up with 13 usable wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I was building doll houses I asked my wife to buy me a box a tooth picks and she brought home 4 boxes, well she done good cause I've found a use for them, they make great lug bolts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well here's what two days of playing with wheel parts got done.
> I guess I should say 3 days cause that's just one wheel near finished still have to get the rest up to snuff.
> Had a ball figuring these out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the difference between home made and store bought.
> Bigger badder and Heavy Duty for the tower crane. lol
> Well have 4 extra wheel for some other project???


Dutchy?
I would guess till you smell wood burning. lol


----------



## Dee1

htl said:


> *Crane Tower day 3&4*
> 
> Making wheels
> I've never really took time to make any wheels for my toys so it's a great time to learn what I can do with the few tool I have.
> I cut out the wheels with a hole saw then made a jig to sand them smooth and round.
> I made a jig to cut out the tread and used the router but the treads would need a ton a sanding so using the same jig I tried it on the table saw and with a skill saw thin cut blade they turned out with a much cleaner tread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled out the center of the wheel for axle cover and lug bolts.
> I first drilled the lug bolts into the wheel it self but there was no way to get the center of the hole sanded good enough and the small lug bolts all the same so drilled it out deeper and put an insert with the bolts on it. Much cleaner look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found this pattern on the web and set my printer to put 12 or more pages on the same paper and got just the size I needed for the wheels.
> Drilling out for the lug bolts on the wheel.
> I made the first one I made a pattern and used tooth picks to keep them aligned as I drilled, double side tape would have been better but didn't have any.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made 17 wheels in all. 4 I used for testing out my different jigs and ended up with 13 usable wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I was building doll houses I asked my wife to buy me a box a tooth picks and she brought home 4 boxes, well she done good cause I've found a use for them, they make great lug bolts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well here's what two days of playing with wheel parts got done.
> I guess I should say 3 days cause that's just one wheel near finished still have to get the rest up to snuff.
> Had a ball figuring these out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the difference between home made and store bought.
> Bigger badder and Heavy Duty for the tower crane. lol
> Well have 4 extra wheel for some other project???


Some great Ideas there looking good I wish I was more computer savvy
I would wonder if you could glue some sandpaper on a disc and sand all the toothpics at one time before gluing in the center hub?


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Crane Tower day 3&4*
> 
> Making wheels
> I've never really took time to make any wheels for my toys so it's a great time to learn what I can do with the few tool I have.
> I cut out the wheels with a hole saw then made a jig to sand them smooth and round.
> I made a jig to cut out the tread and used the router but the treads would need a ton a sanding so using the same jig I tried it on the table saw and with a skill saw thin cut blade they turned out with a much cleaner tread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled out the center of the wheel for axle cover and lug bolts.
> I first drilled the lug bolts into the wheel it self but there was no way to get the center of the hole sanded good enough and the small lug bolts all the same so drilled it out deeper and put an insert with the bolts on it. Much cleaner look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found this pattern on the web and set my printer to put 12 or more pages on the same paper and got just the size I needed for the wheels.
> Drilling out for the lug bolts on the wheel.
> I made the first one I made a pattern and used tooth picks to keep them aligned as I drilled, double side tape would have been better but didn't have any.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made 17 wheels in all. 4 I used for testing out my different jigs and ended up with 13 usable wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I was building doll houses I asked my wife to buy me a box a tooth picks and she brought home 4 boxes, well she done good cause I've found a use for them, they make great lug bolts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well here's what two days of playing with wheel parts got done.
> I guess I should say 3 days cause that's just one wheel near finished still have to get the rest up to snuff.
> Had a ball figuring these out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the difference between home made and store bought.
> Bigger badder and Heavy Duty for the tower crane. lol
> Well have 4 extra wheel for some other project???


Dee1 you got it right I nipped off the long tooth picks then used a disk sander to get them just right.
Thanks for checking it out.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Crane Tower day 3&4*
> 
> Making wheels
> I've never really took time to make any wheels for my toys so it's a great time to learn what I can do with the few tool I have.
> I cut out the wheels with a hole saw then made a jig to sand them smooth and round.
> I made a jig to cut out the tread and used the router but the treads would need a ton a sanding so using the same jig I tried it on the table saw and with a skill saw thin cut blade they turned out with a much cleaner tread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled out the center of the wheel for axle cover and lug bolts.
> I first drilled the lug bolts into the wheel it self but there was no way to get the center of the hole sanded good enough and the small lug bolts all the same so drilled it out deeper and put an insert with the bolts on it. Much cleaner look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found this pattern on the web and set my printer to put 12 or more pages on the same paper and got just the size I needed for the wheels.
> Drilling out for the lug bolts on the wheel.
> I made the first one I made a pattern and used tooth picks to keep them aligned as I drilled, double side tape would have been better but didn't have any.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made 17 wheels in all. 4 I used for testing out my different jigs and ended up with 13 usable wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I was building doll houses I asked my wife to buy me a box a tooth picks and she brought home 4 boxes, well she done good cause I've found a use for them, they make great lug bolts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well here's what two days of playing with wheel parts got done.
> I guess I should say 3 days cause that's just one wheel near finished still have to get the rest up to snuff.
> Had a ball figuring these out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the difference between home made and store bought.
> Bigger badder and Heavy Duty for the tower crane. lol
> Well have 4 extra wheel for some other project???


Getting close to being done.
But it's to cooled in the shop today. :[


























And here's the lumber for my next toy.
Toys and Joys Excavator, walnut and sassafras, I can smell the root beer already. yahoo!!!


----------



## htl

*Excavator Toys & Joys #1*

Finally got the plans for the Toys & Joys Excavator.
I had the plans for the Wood Stores Excavator but just wanted to try my hand at building some tracks.
Before I started this project I've checked out a bunch of other builds on this site and man there's some OUT STANDING work going on around here!!!

I'm going to be using walnut and sassafras.
I wanted the sassafras for the root beer smell but it just stinks! LOL
Sassafras looks a lot like oak but with more figure.









They say to start on sheet one and go from there but I wanted to get the base built first and that's on pages 2 & 3.
Upper track base
lower track base
round spacer
The main base.








There are a couple a tabs that need to be glued on but I added notches for added strength, plus changed to walnut for a little color. 








Gluing on the fender and fender brackets.

























All so worked on the engine compartment.









That's all for today thanks for looking in.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Excavator Toys & Joys #1*
> 
> Finally got the plans for the Toys & Joys Excavator.
> I had the plans for the Wood Stores Excavator but just wanted to try my hand at building some tracks.
> Before I started this project I've checked out a bunch of other builds on this site and man there's some OUT STANDING work going on around here!!!
> 
> I'm going to be using walnut and sassafras.
> I wanted the sassafras for the root beer smell but it just stinks! LOL
> Sassafras looks a lot like oak but with more figure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They say to start on sheet one and go from there but I wanted to get the base built first and that's on pages 2 & 3.
> Upper track base
> lower track base
> round spacer
> The main base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a couple a tabs that need to be glued on but I added notches for added strength, plus changed to walnut for a little color.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing on the fender and fender brackets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All so worked on the engine compartment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all for today thanks for looking in.


This looks very interesting, you got may attention with the sassafras….....


----------



## bushmaster

htl said:


> *Excavator Toys & Joys #1*
> 
> Finally got the plans for the Toys & Joys Excavator.
> I had the plans for the Wood Stores Excavator but just wanted to try my hand at building some tracks.
> Before I started this project I've checked out a bunch of other builds on this site and man there's some OUT STANDING work going on around here!!!
> 
> I'm going to be using walnut and sassafras.
> I wanted the sassafras for the root beer smell but it just stinks! LOL
> Sassafras looks a lot like oak but with more figure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They say to start on sheet one and go from there but I wanted to get the base built first and that's on pages 2 & 3.
> Upper track base
> lower track base
> round spacer
> The main base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a couple a tabs that need to be glued on but I added notches for added strength, plus changed to walnut for a little color.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing on the fender and fender brackets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All so worked on the engine compartment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all for today thanks for looking in.


Will be interested to see your progress one this project. I am constructing one similar of my own design from the pictures.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Excavator Toys & Joys #1*
> 
> Finally got the plans for the Toys & Joys Excavator.
> I had the plans for the Wood Stores Excavator but just wanted to try my hand at building some tracks.
> Before I started this project I've checked out a bunch of other builds on this site and man there's some OUT STANDING work going on around here!!!
> 
> I'm going to be using walnut and sassafras.
> I wanted the sassafras for the root beer smell but it just stinks! LOL
> Sassafras looks a lot like oak but with more figure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They say to start on sheet one and go from there but I wanted to get the base built first and that's on pages 2 & 3.
> Upper track base
> lower track base
> round spacer
> The main base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a couple a tabs that need to be glued on but I added notches for added strength, plus changed to walnut for a little color.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing on the fender and fender brackets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All so worked on the engine compartment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all for today thanks for looking in.


I,m glad with this blog!! *Keep on going.* 
The more people come up with these kinds of blogs the more toy builders there will come. My next T and J project will maybe also this excavator.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Excavator Toys & Joys #1*
> 
> Finally got the plans for the Toys & Joys Excavator.
> I had the plans for the Wood Stores Excavator but just wanted to try my hand at building some tracks.
> Before I started this project I've checked out a bunch of other builds on this site and man there's some OUT STANDING work going on around here!!!
> 
> I'm going to be using walnut and sassafras.
> I wanted the sassafras for the root beer smell but it just stinks! LOL
> Sassafras looks a lot like oak but with more figure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They say to start on sheet one and go from there but I wanted to get the base built first and that's on pages 2 & 3.
> Upper track base
> lower track base
> round spacer
> The main base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a couple a tabs that need to be glued on but I added notches for added strength, plus changed to walnut for a little color.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing on the fender and fender brackets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All so worked on the engine compartment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all for today thanks for looking in.


Thanks guys!
Dutchy hope you don't mind I tried my hand at doctoring the pictures with some notes like you do and it added a new dimension to playing with these posts.


----------



## htl

*Excavator Day 2*

Cleaned up the mating edges then sanded some more on the base and engine cover then,
played with the booms and bucket.

















Made the booms in three parts to add a little color and just change it around a little.
Still need to plane down the booms some more .









The bucket took quite a bit a work, first glue it all up then cut it out then sand sand sand.
I cut out the inside of the bucket then sanded it up really good then glued up the sides.
The main bucket is all end grain [1/4" thick] it could be easily broken so did all the inside work then glued the side on and we're safe to move to the out side of the bucket.

Gluing up the bucket.









Gluing up the boom.
I like to use stick glue to hold the patterns on the wood.
I should also add I take the plans to my copier and print out all the parts needed, two or three copy's to cut up for the patterns.

















If the tornado's don't get us tonight I'll start in the cabin tomorrow..
Saving the best for last, tracks.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Excavator Day 2*
> 
> Cleaned up the mating edges then sanded some more on the base and engine cover then,
> played with the booms and bucket.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made the booms in three parts to add a little color and just change it around a little.
> Still need to plane down the booms some more .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bucket took quite a bit a work, first glue it all up then cut it out then sand sand sand.
> I cut out the inside of the bucket then sanded it up really good then glued up the sides.
> The main bucket is all end grain [1/4" thick] it could be easily broken so did all the inside work then glued the side on and we're safe to move to the out side of the bucket.
> 
> Gluing up the bucket.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing up the boom.
> I like to use stick glue to hold the patterns on the wood.
> I should also add I take the plans to my copier and print out all the parts needed, two or three copy's to cut up for the patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the tornado's don't get us tonight I'll start in the cabin tomorrow..
> Saving the best for last, tracks.


Want to see one mind blowing excavator.
http://www.talkfestool.com/vb/woodworking-projects/4076-wood-model-excavator.html


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Excavator Day 2*
> 
> Cleaned up the mating edges then sanded some more on the base and engine cover then,
> played with the booms and bucket.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made the booms in three parts to add a little color and just change it around a little.
> Still need to plane down the booms some more .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bucket took quite a bit a work, first glue it all up then cut it out then sand sand sand.
> I cut out the inside of the bucket then sanded it up really good then glued up the sides.
> The main bucket is all end grain [1/4" thick] it could be easily broken so did all the inside work then glued the side on and we're safe to move to the out side of the bucket.
> 
> Gluing up the bucket.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing up the boom.
> I like to use stick glue to hold the patterns on the wood.
> I should also add I take the plans to my copier and print out all the parts needed, two or three copy's to cut up for the patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the tornado's don't get us tonight I'll start in the cabin tomorrow..
> Saving the best for last, tracks.


Still need to plane down the booms some more, You would have lots of benefit from a drumsander 

You have weighty books sir.

I have seen the blowing excavator and I wonder whether I will continue toy building. Incredible to see such cracks.

Thanks for sharing.


----------



## Dee1

htl said:


> *Excavator Day 2*
> 
> Cleaned up the mating edges then sanded some more on the base and engine cover then,
> played with the booms and bucket.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made the booms in three parts to add a little color and just change it around a little.
> Still need to plane down the booms some more .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bucket took quite a bit a work, first glue it all up then cut it out then sand sand sand.
> I cut out the inside of the bucket then sanded it up really good then glued up the sides.
> The main bucket is all end grain [1/4" thick] it could be easily broken so did all the inside work then glued the side on and we're safe to move to the out side of the bucket.
> 
> Gluing up the bucket.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing up the boom.
> I like to use stick glue to hold the patterns on the wood.
> I should also add I take the plans to my copier and print out all the parts needed, two or three copy's to cut up for the patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the tornado's don't get us tonight I'll start in the cabin tomorrow..
> Saving the best for last, tracks.


Very Very nice, I really like what you are doing with the wood Combinations 
And I agree with Dutchy I am not sure I will build anymore after looking at that one All I can say is wow


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Excavator Day 2*
> 
> Cleaned up the mating edges then sanded some more on the base and engine cover then,
> played with the booms and bucket.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made the booms in three parts to add a little color and just change it around a little.
> Still need to plane down the booms some more .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bucket took quite a bit a work, first glue it all up then cut it out then sand sand sand.
> I cut out the inside of the bucket then sanded it up really good then glued up the sides.
> The main bucket is all end grain [1/4" thick] it could be easily broken so did all the inside work then glued the side on and we're safe to move to the out side of the bucket.
> 
> Gluing up the bucket.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing up the boom.
> I like to use stick glue to hold the patterns on the wood.
> I should also add I take the plans to my copier and print out all the parts needed, two or three copy's to cut up for the patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the tornado's don't get us tonight I'll start in the cabin tomorrow..
> Saving the best for last, tracks.


We've got to remember, we're building beautiful or at least fun to build toys while he was making a peace of art that took him years.


----------



## htl

*Escavator day 3*

Played with the cabin today, thankfully the bad weather went around us here in Huntsville al.
Went to Google and searched for a more modern looking cabin.
The picture I liked was of the whole machine so the cabin was to small so took the picture printed it out then enlarger it. It took 4 tries at different sized before I found the right size.
Then made 4 copy's and cut and pasted on the wood cut them out and it's done.
Sounds easy but it took all day.
I was planning to go rounder with the cabin but as I got working a more square one came into being.
I will be smoothing the edges but not as rounded as the one picture shows.









I thought when I got back into toy building that the band saw would be my main tool but the scroll saw does a much better job on the small stuff and you don't have to do as much sanding.
Don't want it to sound like there's no sanding just makes smaller gouges that have to be sanded out.













































I would glue the side to the back clamp it up and sand something then 
glue up the top and sand something and or get the next part ready to glue up.










This is one of those deals where between glue ups it's sand sand sand.










Here's a photo story of the build so far.
http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/heretolearn7/Excavator/story


----------



## chief101

htl said:


> *Escavator day 3*
> 
> Played with the cabin today, thankfully the bad weather went around us here in Huntsville al.
> Went to Google and searched for a more modern looking cabin.
> The picture I liked was of the whole machine so the cabin was to small so took the picture printed it out then enlarger it. It took 4 tries at different sized before I found the right size.
> Then made 4 copy's and cut and pasted on the wood cut them out and it's done.
> Sounds easy but it took all day.
> I was planning to go rounder with the cabin but as I got working a more square one came into being.
> I will be smoothing the edges but not as rounded as the one picture shows.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought when I got back into toy building that the band saw would be my main tool but the scroll saw does a much better job on the small stuff and you don't have to do as much sanding.
> Don't want it to sound like there's no sanding just makes smaller gouges that have to be sanded out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would glue the side to the back clamp it up and sand something then
> glue up the top and sand something and or get the next part ready to glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is one of those deals where between glue ups it's sand sand sand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a photo story of the build so far.
> http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/heretolearn7/Excavator/story


Very cool. Can't wait to see it when done.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Escavator day 3*
> 
> Played with the cabin today, thankfully the bad weather went around us here in Huntsville al.
> Went to Google and searched for a more modern looking cabin.
> The picture I liked was of the whole machine so the cabin was to small so took the picture printed it out then enlarger it. It took 4 tries at different sized before I found the right size.
> Then made 4 copy's and cut and pasted on the wood cut them out and it's done.
> Sounds easy but it took all day.
> I was planning to go rounder with the cabin but as I got working a more square one came into being.
> I will be smoothing the edges but not as rounded as the one picture shows.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought when I got back into toy building that the band saw would be my main tool but the scroll saw does a much better job on the small stuff and you don't have to do as much sanding.
> Don't want it to sound like there's no sanding just makes smaller gouges that have to be sanded out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would glue the side to the back clamp it up and sand something then
> glue up the top and sand something and or get the next part ready to glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is one of those deals where between glue ups it's sand sand sand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a photo story of the build so far.
> http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/heretolearn7/Excavator/story


This is the cabin I like!


----------



## JulianLech

htl said:


> *Escavator day 3*
> 
> Played with the cabin today, thankfully the bad weather went around us here in Huntsville al.
> Went to Google and searched for a more modern looking cabin.
> The picture I liked was of the whole machine so the cabin was to small so took the picture printed it out then enlarger it. It took 4 tries at different sized before I found the right size.
> Then made 4 copy's and cut and pasted on the wood cut them out and it's done.
> Sounds easy but it took all day.
> I was planning to go rounder with the cabin but as I got working a more square one came into being.
> I will be smoothing the edges but not as rounded as the one picture shows.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought when I got back into toy building that the band saw would be my main tool but the scroll saw does a much better job on the small stuff and you don't have to do as much sanding.
> Don't want it to sound like there's no sanding just makes smaller gouges that have to be sanded out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would glue the side to the back clamp it up and sand something then
> glue up the top and sand something and or get the next part ready to glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is one of those deals where between glue ups it's sand sand sand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a photo story of the build so far.
> http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/heretolearn7/Excavator/story


great progress and looks awesome.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Escavator day 3*
> 
> Played with the cabin today, thankfully the bad weather went around us here in Huntsville al.
> Went to Google and searched for a more modern looking cabin.
> The picture I liked was of the whole machine so the cabin was to small so took the picture printed it out then enlarger it. It took 4 tries at different sized before I found the right size.
> Then made 4 copy's and cut and pasted on the wood cut them out and it's done.
> Sounds easy but it took all day.
> I was planning to go rounder with the cabin but as I got working a more square one came into being.
> I will be smoothing the edges but not as rounded as the one picture shows.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought when I got back into toy building that the band saw would be my main tool but the scroll saw does a much better job on the small stuff and you don't have to do as much sanding.
> Don't want it to sound like there's no sanding just makes smaller gouges that have to be sanded out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would glue the side to the back clamp it up and sand something then
> glue up the top and sand something and or get the next part ready to glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is one of those deals where between glue ups it's sand sand sand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a photo story of the build so far.
> http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/heretolearn7/Excavator/story


Dale I really can't wait to see it but that just puts me in the hunt for my next project. ol
Thanks Julian
Dutchy it is looking better than the boxy plan cabin but after looking at yours last night I wish I had thinned the posts down a little bit more.
I guess it's my being new at this I think it needs to be heavy duty when a little finer touch is needed.


----------



## Dee1

htl said:


> *Escavator day 3*
> 
> Played with the cabin today, thankfully the bad weather went around us here in Huntsville al.
> Went to Google and searched for a more modern looking cabin.
> The picture I liked was of the whole machine so the cabin was to small so took the picture printed it out then enlarger it. It took 4 tries at different sized before I found the right size.
> Then made 4 copy's and cut and pasted on the wood cut them out and it's done.
> Sounds easy but it took all day.
> I was planning to go rounder with the cabin but as I got working a more square one came into being.
> I will be smoothing the edges but not as rounded as the one picture shows.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought when I got back into toy building that the band saw would be my main tool but the scroll saw does a much better job on the small stuff and you don't have to do as much sanding.
> Don't want it to sound like there's no sanding just makes smaller gouges that have to be sanded out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would glue the side to the back clamp it up and sand something then
> glue up the top and sand something and or get the next part ready to glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is one of those deals where between glue ups it's sand sand sand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a photo story of the build so far.
> http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/heretolearn7/Excavator/story


I really like your changes to the cabin very nice .
I will for sure use your idea if I should build another , that is if I ever finish this loader.
It has given me more than a few issues and if it was not for Dutchy I probably would still be on page one of the plans.
Thanks Dutchy.
Dee1


----------



## htl

*Excavator day 4*

Had to fix two really dumb mistakes, I glued up the booms before I cut out the places for them to bolt up.
Would have taken 10 minutes I put in a couple a hours trying to cut them out with out buggering it up.
I have the technology but shore is a lot easier if you do it right the first time.









Finally got to play with the tracks this after noon.
Cut out the lumber to length then needed 3/8" for the treads so split some walnut and while I'm at it will be making a set of mahogany treads too because I'm sure there will be another crane,excavator or bull dozer in my future.
I cut about 200, 1 1/2" x1 1/4" blank treads both walnut and mahogany.
Used my table saw sled, if you notice it has a very low fence which make it easy for me to use it sitting down.
With a fine Skill saw blade it makes some really clean cuts.









Started building a jig for the treads *THANKS DUTCHY FOR THE HOW TO ON GETTING THIS GREAT JIG built.*
Sure is a labor saver.



























Used carpet tape to help keep the treads in place while they were being cut.

















Sanded up what I could reach while it's all together like this.
You can get a lot done ganging it up like this.









Glued some sand paper to a stick so I could reach all those narrow groves.









Dutchy one last thing, what kind of clearance do you try to keep between the tracks?
I've cut all of one side of the sets and tomorrow I'll be cutting the other so is it better for the tracks to be sloppy lose or just how tight do you like it to be?


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Excavator day 4*
> 
> Had to fix two really dumb mistakes, I glued up the booms before I cut out the places for them to bolt up.
> Would have taken 10 minutes I put in a couple a hours trying to cut them out with out buggering it up.
> I have the technology but shore is a lot easier if you do it right the first time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally got to play with the tracks this after noon.
> Cut out the lumber to length then needed 3/8" for the treads so split some walnut and while I'm at it will be making a set of mahogany treads too because I'm sure there will be another crane,excavator or bull dozer in my future.
> I cut about 200, 1 1/2" x1 1/4" blank treads both walnut and mahogany.
> Used my table saw sled, if you notice it has a very low fence which make it easy for me to use it sitting down.
> With a fine Skill saw blade it makes some really clean cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Started building a jig for the treads *THANKS DUTCHY FOR THE HOW TO ON GETTING THIS GREAT JIG built.*
> Sure is a labor saver.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used carpet tape to help keep the treads in place while they were being cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sanded up what I could reach while it's all together like this.
> You can get a lot done ganging it up like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued some sand paper to a stick so I could reach all those narrow groves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dutchy one last thing, what kind of clearance do you try to keep between the tracks?
> I've cut all of one side of the sets and tomorrow I'll be cutting the other so is it better for the tracks to be sloppy lose or just how tight do you like it to be?


Now that's an ingenious way to make all those track components…...very clever engineering!


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Excavator day 4*
> 
> Had to fix two really dumb mistakes, I glued up the booms before I cut out the places for them to bolt up.
> Would have taken 10 minutes I put in a couple a hours trying to cut them out with out buggering it up.
> I have the technology but shore is a lot easier if you do it right the first time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally got to play with the tracks this after noon.
> Cut out the lumber to length then needed 3/8" for the treads so split some walnut and while I'm at it will be making a set of mahogany treads too because I'm sure there will be another crane,excavator or bull dozer in my future.
> I cut about 200, 1 1/2" x1 1/4" blank treads both walnut and mahogany.
> Used my table saw sled, if you notice it has a very low fence which make it easy for me to use it sitting down.
> With a fine Skill saw blade it makes some really clean cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Started building a jig for the treads *THANKS DUTCHY FOR THE HOW TO ON GETTING THIS GREAT JIG built.*
> Sure is a labor saver.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used carpet tape to help keep the treads in place while they were being cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sanded up what I could reach while it's all together like this.
> You can get a lot done ganging it up like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued some sand paper to a stick so I could reach all those narrow groves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dutchy one last thing, what kind of clearance do you try to keep between the tracks?
> I've cut all of one side of the sets and tomorrow I'll be cutting the other so is it better for the tracks to be sloppy lose or just how tight do you like it to be?


Apologies to Dutchy as I must have missed his original post on the jig…..


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Excavator day 4*
> 
> Had to fix two really dumb mistakes, I glued up the booms before I cut out the places for them to bolt up.
> Would have taken 10 minutes I put in a couple a hours trying to cut them out with out buggering it up.
> I have the technology but shore is a lot easier if you do it right the first time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally got to play with the tracks this after noon.
> Cut out the lumber to length then needed 3/8" for the treads so split some walnut and while I'm at it will be making a set of mahogany treads too because I'm sure there will be another crane,excavator or bull dozer in my future.
> I cut about 200, 1 1/2" x1 1/4" blank treads both walnut and mahogany.
> Used my table saw sled, if you notice it has a very low fence which make it easy for me to use it sitting down.
> With a fine Skill saw blade it makes some really clean cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Started building a jig for the treads *THANKS DUTCHY FOR THE HOW TO ON GETTING THIS GREAT JIG built.*
> Sure is a labor saver.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used carpet tape to help keep the treads in place while they were being cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sanded up what I could reach while it's all together like this.
> You can get a lot done ganging it up like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued some sand paper to a stick so I could reach all those narrow groves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dutchy one last thing, what kind of clearance do you try to keep between the tracks?
> I've cut all of one side of the sets and tomorrow I'll be cutting the other so is it better for the tracks to be sloppy lose or just how tight do you like it to be?


I could use a little help.
I want to hing the door and don't want any thing to big so any suggestions would be appreciated.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Excavator day 4*
> 
> Had to fix two really dumb mistakes, I glued up the booms before I cut out the places for them to bolt up.
> Would have taken 10 minutes I put in a couple a hours trying to cut them out with out buggering it up.
> I have the technology but shore is a lot easier if you do it right the first time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally got to play with the tracks this after noon.
> Cut out the lumber to length then needed 3/8" for the treads so split some walnut and while I'm at it will be making a set of mahogany treads too because I'm sure there will be another crane,excavator or bull dozer in my future.
> I cut about 200, 1 1/2" x1 1/4" blank treads both walnut and mahogany.
> Used my table saw sled, if you notice it has a very low fence which make it easy for me to use it sitting down.
> With a fine Skill saw blade it makes some really clean cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Started building a jig for the treads *THANKS DUTCHY FOR THE HOW TO ON GETTING THIS GREAT JIG built.*
> Sure is a labor saver.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used carpet tape to help keep the treads in place while they were being cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sanded up what I could reach while it's all together like this.
> You can get a lot done ganging it up like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued some sand paper to a stick so I could reach all those narrow groves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dutchy one last thing, what kind of clearance do you try to keep between the tracks?
> I've cut all of one side of the sets and tomorrow I'll be cutting the other so is it better for the tracks to be sloppy lose or just how tight do you like it to be?





> I could use a little help.
> I want to hing the door and don t want any thing to big so any suggestions would be appreciated.
> 
> - htl


What about small jewellery box hinges??
or a strip of calico glued to both the door & the door pillar??


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Excavator day 4*
> 
> Had to fix two really dumb mistakes, I glued up the booms before I cut out the places for them to bolt up.
> Would have taken 10 minutes I put in a couple a hours trying to cut them out with out buggering it up.
> I have the technology but shore is a lot easier if you do it right the first time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally got to play with the tracks this after noon.
> Cut out the lumber to length then needed 3/8" for the treads so split some walnut and while I'm at it will be making a set of mahogany treads too because I'm sure there will be another crane,excavator or bull dozer in my future.
> I cut about 200, 1 1/2" x1 1/4" blank treads both walnut and mahogany.
> Used my table saw sled, if you notice it has a very low fence which make it easy for me to use it sitting down.
> With a fine Skill saw blade it makes some really clean cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Started building a jig for the treads *THANKS DUTCHY FOR THE HOW TO ON GETTING THIS GREAT JIG built.*
> Sure is a labor saver.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used carpet tape to help keep the treads in place while they were being cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sanded up what I could reach while it's all together like this.
> You can get a lot done ganging it up like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued some sand paper to a stick so I could reach all those narrow groves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dutchy one last thing, what kind of clearance do you try to keep between the tracks?
> I've cut all of one side of the sets and tomorrow I'll be cutting the other so is it better for the tracks to be sloppy lose or just how tight do you like it to be?


I like to see you have used my idea! Your welcome! A reason for me to keep on posting blogs about the building process of my toy making adventures. The clearance I gave it is about 0,8 mm. (We in europe use a comma where americans use a dot and use a dot where americans use a comma, which has already cost a lot of money in silicon valley ) This 0,8mm unintentionally wasn't divided proportionally. When all the tracks where ready I sometimes sanded a little to make the run pliable (I hope I have used the wright word)


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Excavator day 4*
> 
> Had to fix two really dumb mistakes, I glued up the booms before I cut out the places for them to bolt up.
> Would have taken 10 minutes I put in a couple a hours trying to cut them out with out buggering it up.
> I have the technology but shore is a lot easier if you do it right the first time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally got to play with the tracks this after noon.
> Cut out the lumber to length then needed 3/8" for the treads so split some walnut and while I'm at it will be making a set of mahogany treads too because I'm sure there will be another crane,excavator or bull dozer in my future.
> I cut about 200, 1 1/2" x1 1/4" blank treads both walnut and mahogany.
> Used my table saw sled, if you notice it has a very low fence which make it easy for me to use it sitting down.
> With a fine Skill saw blade it makes some really clean cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Started building a jig for the treads *THANKS DUTCHY FOR THE HOW TO ON GETTING THIS GREAT JIG built.*
> Sure is a labor saver.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used carpet tape to help keep the treads in place while they were being cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sanded up what I could reach while it's all together like this.
> You can get a lot done ganging it up like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued some sand paper to a stick so I could reach all those narrow groves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dutchy one last thing, what kind of clearance do you try to keep between the tracks?
> I've cut all of one side of the sets and tomorrow I'll be cutting the other so is it better for the tracks to be sloppy lose or just how tight do you like it to be?


Thanks Dutchy for the timely reply, now all I have to do is translate it to english. lol
The funny thing is the more I build this small stuff the easier it is with metric.
I went back and took a closer look at your pictures and I could see the dowels between the fingers so being really tight ain't right.
Ps And under stand every word.

Thanks Crowie but would like to stay with wood if at all possible.
I'll need to do some more research on this.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Excavator day 4*
> 
> Had to fix two really dumb mistakes, I glued up the booms before I cut out the places for them to bolt up.
> Would have taken 10 minutes I put in a couple a hours trying to cut them out with out buggering it up.
> I have the technology but shore is a lot easier if you do it right the first time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally got to play with the tracks this after noon.
> Cut out the lumber to length then needed 3/8" for the treads so split some walnut and while I'm at it will be making a set of mahogany treads too because I'm sure there will be another crane,excavator or bull dozer in my future.
> I cut about 200, 1 1/2" x1 1/4" blank treads both walnut and mahogany.
> Used my table saw sled, if you notice it has a very low fence which make it easy for me to use it sitting down.
> With a fine Skill saw blade it makes some really clean cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Started building a jig for the treads *THANKS DUTCHY FOR THE HOW TO ON GETTING THIS GREAT JIG built.*
> Sure is a labor saver.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used carpet tape to help keep the treads in place while they were being cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sanded up what I could reach while it's all together like this.
> You can get a lot done ganging it up like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued some sand paper to a stick so I could reach all those narrow groves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dutchy one last thing, what kind of clearance do you try to keep between the tracks?
> I've cut all of one side of the sets and tomorrow I'll be cutting the other so is it better for the tracks to be sloppy lose or just how tight do you like it to be?


I went back and took a closer look at your pictures and I could see the dowels between the fingers so being really tight ain't right. Daardoor had ik een extra onderdeel nodig (Because of this I needed an additional component)


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Excavator day 4*
> 
> Had to fix two really dumb mistakes, I glued up the booms before I cut out the places for them to bolt up.
> Would have taken 10 minutes I put in a couple a hours trying to cut them out with out buggering it up.
> I have the technology but shore is a lot easier if you do it right the first time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally got to play with the tracks this after noon.
> Cut out the lumber to length then needed 3/8" for the treads so split some walnut and while I'm at it will be making a set of mahogany treads too because I'm sure there will be another crane,excavator or bull dozer in my future.
> I cut about 200, 1 1/2" x1 1/4" blank treads both walnut and mahogany.
> Used my table saw sled, if you notice it has a very low fence which make it easy for me to use it sitting down.
> With a fine Skill saw blade it makes some really clean cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Started building a jig for the treads *THANKS DUTCHY FOR THE HOW TO ON GETTING THIS GREAT JIG built.*
> Sure is a labor saver.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used carpet tape to help keep the treads in place while they were being cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sanded up what I could reach while it's all together like this.
> You can get a lot done ganging it up like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued some sand paper to a stick so I could reach all those narrow groves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dutchy one last thing, what kind of clearance do you try to keep between the tracks?
> I've cut all of one side of the sets and tomorrow I'll be cutting the other so is it better for the tracks to be sloppy lose or just how tight do you like it to be?


I could use a little help.
I want to hing the door and don't want any thing to big so any suggestions would be appreciated. Do it the same way you made the treads.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Excavator day 4*
> 
> Had to fix two really dumb mistakes, I glued up the booms before I cut out the places for them to bolt up.
> Would have taken 10 minutes I put in a couple a hours trying to cut them out with out buggering it up.
> I have the technology but shore is a lot easier if you do it right the first time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally got to play with the tracks this after noon.
> Cut out the lumber to length then needed 3/8" for the treads so split some walnut and while I'm at it will be making a set of mahogany treads too because I'm sure there will be another crane,excavator or bull dozer in my future.
> I cut about 200, 1 1/2" x1 1/4" blank treads both walnut and mahogany.
> Used my table saw sled, if you notice it has a very low fence which make it easy for me to use it sitting down.
> With a fine Skill saw blade it makes some really clean cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Started building a jig for the treads *THANKS DUTCHY FOR THE HOW TO ON GETTING THIS GREAT JIG built.*
> Sure is a labor saver.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used carpet tape to help keep the treads in place while they were being cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sanded up what I could reach while it's all together like this.
> You can get a lot done ganging it up like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued some sand paper to a stick so I could reach all those narrow groves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dutchy one last thing, what kind of clearance do you try to keep between the tracks?
> I've cut all of one side of the sets and tomorrow I'll be cutting the other so is it better for the tracks to be sloppy lose or just how tight do you like it to be?


Ya Dutchy I've been heading in that direction.
May have it pined on the inside so the door can come off if need be.
Now don't start talking that wind mill talk or ypu'll loss me with the first word.
I have enough trouble with one tongue.
And again thanks for the help.


----------



## htl

*Excavator day 5*

Played with the tracks again today.
Got the one side cut out yesterday so today I'll get the other side done and start drilling for dowels.
Here's what needs done and the jig to get er done.








More of the same but I will point out that I will be cutting grooves in the walnut and some of the mahogany now
just for this set but will need to set it all up all over again later for another walnut set so I'm making a cutting board.









With this I will be able to just set the board over the saw blade slide the fence over and start cutting.
All the figuring has been done why do it again.
I don't have a Dado set, well I do but they won't work with this saw so have to make a cut move over a tad and make another cut. Not as good as a dado but it gets er done.
I'm on the out look of a Shop Smith real cheap so when I do my dadoing will be on that.
Not getting the SS for the table saw want it for the drill press and lathe.


















Made a simple jig to drill all those those holes.









I only buggered up three parts when the drill bit wandered off on it's own. grrrrr!
But I'm only half done with the drilling so we'll see.
Walnut wasn't the problem it's that soft mahogany that liked to walk about.








That's all there is.
Thanks for checking it out.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Excavator day 5*
> 
> Played with the tracks again today.
> Got the one side cut out yesterday so today I'll get the other side done and start drilling for dowels.
> Here's what needs done and the jig to get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More of the same but I will point out that I will be cutting grooves in the walnut and some of the mahogany now
> just for this set but will need to set it all up all over again later for another walnut set so I'm making a cutting board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With this I will be able to just set the board over the saw blade slide the fence over and start cutting.
> All the figuring has been done why do it again.
> I don't have a Dado set, well I do but they won't work with this saw so have to make a cut move over a tad and make another cut. Not as good as a dado but it gets er done.
> I'm on the out look of a Shop Smith real cheap so when I do my dadoing will be on that.
> Not getting the SS for the table saw want it for the drill press and lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made a simple jig to drill all those those holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I only buggered up three parts when the drill bit wandered off on it's own. grrrrr!
> But I'm only half done with the drilling so we'll see.
> Walnut wasn't the problem it's that soft mahogany that liked to walk about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is.
> Thanks for checking it out.


Definitely a labour of love with a huge bucket of patience thrown in…well done Bruce.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Excavator day 5*
> 
> Played with the tracks again today.
> Got the one side cut out yesterday so today I'll get the other side done and start drilling for dowels.
> Here's what needs done and the jig to get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More of the same but I will point out that I will be cutting grooves in the walnut and some of the mahogany now
> just for this set but will need to set it all up all over again later for another walnut set so I'm making a cutting board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With this I will be able to just set the board over the saw blade slide the fence over and start cutting.
> All the figuring has been done why do it again.
> I don't have a Dado set, well I do but they won't work with this saw so have to make a cut move over a tad and make another cut. Not as good as a dado but it gets er done.
> I'm on the out look of a Shop Smith real cheap so when I do my dadoing will be on that.
> Not getting the SS for the table saw want it for the drill press and lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made a simple jig to drill all those those holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I only buggered up three parts when the drill bit wandered off on it's own. grrrrr!
> But I'm only half done with the drilling so we'll see.
> Walnut wasn't the problem it's that soft mahogany that liked to walk about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is.
> Thanks for checking it out.


Usually I don't want to get out of the shop but today I had my fill of drilling little bitty stuff. lol


----------



## JulianLech

htl said:


> *Excavator day 5*
> 
> Played with the tracks again today.
> Got the one side cut out yesterday so today I'll get the other side done and start drilling for dowels.
> Here's what needs done and the jig to get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More of the same but I will point out that I will be cutting grooves in the walnut and some of the mahogany now
> just for this set but will need to set it all up all over again later for another walnut set so I'm making a cutting board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With this I will be able to just set the board over the saw blade slide the fence over and start cutting.
> All the figuring has been done why do it again.
> I don't have a Dado set, well I do but they won't work with this saw so have to make a cut move over a tad and make another cut. Not as good as a dado but it gets er done.
> I'm on the out look of a Shop Smith real cheap so when I do my dadoing will be on that.
> Not getting the SS for the table saw want it for the drill press and lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made a simple jig to drill all those those holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I only buggered up three parts when the drill bit wandered off on it's own. grrrrr!
> But I'm only half done with the drilling so we'll see.
> Walnut wasn't the problem it's that soft mahogany that liked to walk about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is.
> Thanks for checking it out.


I like how you made the tracks. Added to my favorites for future toy projects. Thanks for posting.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Excavator day 5*
> 
> Played with the tracks again today.
> Got the one side cut out yesterday so today I'll get the other side done and start drilling for dowels.
> Here's what needs done and the jig to get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More of the same but I will point out that I will be cutting grooves in the walnut and some of the mahogany now
> just for this set but will need to set it all up all over again later for another walnut set so I'm making a cutting board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With this I will be able to just set the board over the saw blade slide the fence over and start cutting.
> All the figuring has been done why do it again.
> I don't have a Dado set, well I do but they won't work with this saw so have to make a cut move over a tad and make another cut. Not as good as a dado but it gets er done.
> I'm on the out look of a Shop Smith real cheap so when I do my dadoing will be on that.
> Not getting the SS for the table saw want it for the drill press and lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made a simple jig to drill all those those holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I only buggered up three parts when the drill bit wandered off on it's own. grrrrr!
> But I'm only half done with the drilling so we'll see.
> Walnut wasn't the problem it's that soft mahogany that liked to walk about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is.
> Thanks for checking it out.


About drilling: Your drill is much too long. Shorten (on the back side) your drill to prevent wandering. Or even better pre drill it with this cheap center drill:









Pre drilling looks double work, but I can assure you it is not. Downside is that you stay longer in the shop.. Benefit of pre drilling is that the mounting process will be much more convenient.

*Success.*


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Excavator day 5*
> 
> Played with the tracks again today.
> Got the one side cut out yesterday so today I'll get the other side done and start drilling for dowels.
> Here's what needs done and the jig to get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More of the same but I will point out that I will be cutting grooves in the walnut and some of the mahogany now
> just for this set but will need to set it all up all over again later for another walnut set so I'm making a cutting board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With this I will be able to just set the board over the saw blade slide the fence over and start cutting.
> All the figuring has been done why do it again.
> I don't have a Dado set, well I do but they won't work with this saw so have to make a cut move over a tad and make another cut. Not as good as a dado but it gets er done.
> I'm on the out look of a Shop Smith real cheap so when I do my dadoing will be on that.
> Not getting the SS for the table saw want it for the drill press and lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made a simple jig to drill all those those holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I only buggered up three parts when the drill bit wandered off on it's own. grrrrr!
> But I'm only half done with the drilling so we'll see.
> Walnut wasn't the problem it's that soft mahogany that liked to walk about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is.
> Thanks for checking it out.


Dutch one more of many questions. lol
When you start drilling the other side do you drill all the way through or half and half to help it stay true?
Thanks in advance and for all your other help as well.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Excavator day 5*
> 
> Played with the tracks again today.
> Got the one side cut out yesterday so today I'll get the other side done and start drilling for dowels.
> Here's what needs done and the jig to get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More of the same but I will point out that I will be cutting grooves in the walnut and some of the mahogany now
> just for this set but will need to set it all up all over again later for another walnut set so I'm making a cutting board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With this I will be able to just set the board over the saw blade slide the fence over and start cutting.
> All the figuring has been done why do it again.
> I don't have a Dado set, well I do but they won't work with this saw so have to make a cut move over a tad and make another cut. Not as good as a dado but it gets er done.
> I'm on the out look of a Shop Smith real cheap so when I do my dadoing will be on that.
> Not getting the SS for the table saw want it for the drill press and lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made a simple jig to drill all those those holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I only buggered up three parts when the drill bit wandered off on it's own. grrrrr!
> But I'm only half done with the drilling so we'll see.
> Walnut wasn't the problem it's that soft mahogany that liked to walk about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is.
> Thanks for checking it out.


I do not drill all the way through, not even half and half. In your case I would drill a maximum of 8-10 mm deep in the blind side (male side) I also drill the two lips (female side) from both sides. This means that I use two dowels per track. One side of the dowel is always with a spearhead. When the dowel is 2,5 mm I drill 2,5 diameter in the lips (female) and 3 mm in the blind (male) side. I didn,t use glue. The dowels are pressed in and holds from it's own. Sometimes you have to use a drill from 2,4 mm for dowels from 2,5 mm. The dowels I used where theeth pics with means that measerment isn't that good.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Excavator day 5*
> 
> Played with the tracks again today.
> Got the one side cut out yesterday so today I'll get the other side done and start drilling for dowels.
> Here's what needs done and the jig to get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More of the same but I will point out that I will be cutting grooves in the walnut and some of the mahogany now
> just for this set but will need to set it all up all over again later for another walnut set so I'm making a cutting board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With this I will be able to just set the board over the saw blade slide the fence over and start cutting.
> All the figuring has been done why do it again.
> I don't have a Dado set, well I do but they won't work with this saw so have to make a cut move over a tad and make another cut. Not as good as a dado but it gets er done.
> I'm on the out look of a Shop Smith real cheap so when I do my dadoing will be on that.
> Not getting the SS for the table saw want it for the drill press and lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made a simple jig to drill all those those holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I only buggered up three parts when the drill bit wandered off on it's own. grrrrr!
> But I'm only half done with the drilling so we'll see.
> Walnut wasn't the problem it's that soft mahogany that liked to walk about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is.
> Thanks for checking it out.


Thanks Dutchy!!!
I don't know why but I hadn't even considered drilling just for the one side of the track when doing the male side.
Man I'm glad I started on the female side and with them I did drill one side then flipped it over.
*Thank you thank you very much.*


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Excavator day 5*
> 
> Played with the tracks again today.
> Got the one side cut out yesterday so today I'll get the other side done and start drilling for dowels.
> Here's what needs done and the jig to get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More of the same but I will point out that I will be cutting grooves in the walnut and some of the mahogany now
> just for this set but will need to set it all up all over again later for another walnut set so I'm making a cutting board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With this I will be able to just set the board over the saw blade slide the fence over and start cutting.
> All the figuring has been done why do it again.
> I don't have a Dado set, well I do but they won't work with this saw so have to make a cut move over a tad and make another cut. Not as good as a dado but it gets er done.
> I'm on the out look of a Shop Smith real cheap so when I do my dadoing will be on that.
> Not getting the SS for the table saw want it for the drill press and lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made a simple jig to drill all those those holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I only buggered up three parts when the drill bit wandered off on it's own. grrrrr!
> But I'm only half done with the drilling so we'll see.
> Walnut wasn't the problem it's that soft mahogany that liked to walk about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is.
> Thanks for checking it out.


Your welcome. My first thought was also do drill in once. It was Dee1 that give me the advise to drill from both sides.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Excavator day 5*
> 
> Played with the tracks again today.
> Got the one side cut out yesterday so today I'll get the other side done and start drilling for dowels.
> Here's what needs done and the jig to get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More of the same but I will point out that I will be cutting grooves in the walnut and some of the mahogany now
> just for this set but will need to set it all up all over again later for another walnut set so I'm making a cutting board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With this I will be able to just set the board over the saw blade slide the fence over and start cutting.
> All the figuring has been done why do it again.
> I don't have a Dado set, well I do but they won't work with this saw so have to make a cut move over a tad and make another cut. Not as good as a dado but it gets er done.
> I'm on the out look of a Shop Smith real cheap so when I do my dadoing will be on that.
> Not getting the SS for the table saw want it for the drill press and lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made a simple jig to drill all those those holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I only buggered up three parts when the drill bit wandered off on it's own. grrrrr!
> But I'm only half done with the drilling so we'll see.
> Walnut wasn't the problem it's that soft mahogany that liked to walk about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is.
> Thanks for checking it out.


I read on another site that it is recommended to use a denser wood for tracks so any one just getting started may want to keep this in mind.
The drill bit wants to follow any softer wood grain and will deflect the drill bit out of it's needed path and bugger up the part..
That's why they say when your making treads to plan on making 70 when you really only need 55-58 treads.
That's my $.02


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Excavator day 5*
> 
> Played with the tracks again today.
> Got the one side cut out yesterday so today I'll get the other side done and start drilling for dowels.
> Here's what needs done and the jig to get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More of the same but I will point out that I will be cutting grooves in the walnut and some of the mahogany now
> just for this set but will need to set it all up all over again later for another walnut set so I'm making a cutting board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With this I will be able to just set the board over the saw blade slide the fence over and start cutting.
> All the figuring has been done why do it again.
> I don't have a Dado set, well I do but they won't work with this saw so have to make a cut move over a tad and make another cut. Not as good as a dado but it gets er done.
> I'm on the out look of a Shop Smith real cheap so when I do my dadoing will be on that.
> Not getting the SS for the table saw want it for the drill press and lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made a simple jig to drill all those those holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I only buggered up three parts when the drill bit wandered off on it's own. grrrrr!
> But I'm only half done with the drilling so we'll see.
> Walnut wasn't the problem it's that soft mahogany that liked to walk about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is.
> Thanks for checking it out.


Julian I got the help I needed from dutchy's latest blog.
I hope I was some help and not taken you over to the dark side of wood working. LOL
Just went back over to Dee1 post and he's really built some nice toys.


----------



## htl

*Excavator day 6*

It's track day!!! part two

Showed this last time but just wanted you to be able to see the difference in the jig.

Drill the one finger then flip it and drill the other. [9/64 drill bit]









Then started the other end using a 1/64 larger bit I'll show pictures why later.
I drilled a little passed center then flipped it over and drilled the other side.
I added a board under the jig so the tread wouldn't slip down under load









I first drilled all the small fingered ones as in the first jig then drilled about 20 with the second jig and tried them out and they were ok but they need to be able to turn around a 2" wheel and these wouldn't come close.

So I sanded a 45 degree on* one side* of the small and large fingers this made the clearence needed to bend nicely.
I made a jig on my sander to do this.
First set sander at a 45 degree.
I placed a fence parallel to the sanding disk a little bigger than the tread then brought the end at the out side of the wheel in to a distance I wanted for my 45 degree cut. 
Now I turn on the sander and place a tread at the loss end and slide it toward the out side, nice sanded 45 degree.
The pictures do a much better job of telling the story.



























*But I still have a problem???*
The treads bend but head to the side just a bit plus when set down they sit up a little.
You can see in picture the walnut or dark treads have been fixed but the lighter ones show where it needs work.



















So I went back and drilled all the big finger treads with a 1/64 bigger bit and all is fixed.
Now they bend way more than enough and are straight.
They wiggle just like a snake.

Here's a shot of the walnut with the bigger hole and the mahogany before drilling them out.









I started on the track frames and spacers but no pictures so will show that next time.

You have to remember one thing on these how toes.
There's a hundred ways to do any thing you just have to use what you've got on hand.
This is whats working for me with my cheap Harbor Freight tools.
I used to have a shop full a tools but when I retired I thought I was out of wood working and gave away all my wore out tools. lol 
Thanks for checking in.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Excavator day 6*
> 
> It's track day!!! part two
> 
> Showed this last time but just wanted you to be able to see the difference in the jig.
> 
> Drill the one finger then flip it and drill the other. [9/64 drill bit]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then started the other end using a 1/64 larger bit I'll show pictures why later.
> I drilled a little passed center then flipped it over and drilled the other side.
> I added a board under the jig so the tread wouldn't slip down under load
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I first drilled all the small fingered ones as in the first jig then drilled about 20 with the second jig and tried them out and they were ok but they need to be able to turn around a 2" wheel and these wouldn't come close.
> 
> So I sanded a 45 degree on* one side* of the small and large fingers this made the clearence needed to bend nicely.
> I made a jig on my sander to do this.
> First set sander at a 45 degree.
> I placed a fence parallel to the sanding disk a little bigger than the tread then brought the end at the out side of the wheel in to a distance I wanted for my 45 degree cut.
> Now I turn on the sander and place a tread at the loss end and slide it toward the out side, nice sanded 45 degree.
> The pictures do a much better job of telling the story.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *But I still have a problem???*
> The treads bend but head to the side just a bit plus when set down they sit up a little.
> You can see in picture the walnut or dark treads have been fixed but the lighter ones show where it needs work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went back and drilled all the big finger treads with a 1/64 bigger bit and all is fixed.
> Now they bend way more than enough and are straight.
> They wiggle just like a snake.
> 
> Here's a shot of the walnut with the bigger hole and the mahogany before drilling them out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started on the track frames and spacers but no pictures so will show that next time.
> 
> You have to remember one thing on these how toes.
> There's a hundred ways to do any thing you just have to use what you've got on hand.
> This is whats working for me with my cheap Harbor Freight tools.
> I used to have a shop full a tools but when I retired I thought I was out of wood working and gave away all my wore out tools. lol
> Thanks for checking in.


*I'm glad it succeeded.* One thing I can't understand is why you made one dark and one light colored.


----------



## chief101

htl said:


> *Excavator day 6*
> 
> It's track day!!! part two
> 
> Showed this last time but just wanted you to be able to see the difference in the jig.
> 
> Drill the one finger then flip it and drill the other. [9/64 drill bit]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then started the other end using a 1/64 larger bit I'll show pictures why later.
> I drilled a little passed center then flipped it over and drilled the other side.
> I added a board under the jig so the tread wouldn't slip down under load
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I first drilled all the small fingered ones as in the first jig then drilled about 20 with the second jig and tried them out and they were ok but they need to be able to turn around a 2" wheel and these wouldn't come close.
> 
> So I sanded a 45 degree on* one side* of the small and large fingers this made the clearence needed to bend nicely.
> I made a jig on my sander to do this.
> First set sander at a 45 degree.
> I placed a fence parallel to the sanding disk a little bigger than the tread then brought the end at the out side of the wheel in to a distance I wanted for my 45 degree cut.
> Now I turn on the sander and place a tread at the loss end and slide it toward the out side, nice sanded 45 degree.
> The pictures do a much better job of telling the story.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *But I still have a problem???*
> The treads bend but head to the side just a bit plus when set down they sit up a little.
> You can see in picture the walnut or dark treads have been fixed but the lighter ones show where it needs work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went back and drilled all the big finger treads with a 1/64 bigger bit and all is fixed.
> Now they bend way more than enough and are straight.
> They wiggle just like a snake.
> 
> Here's a shot of the walnut with the bigger hole and the mahogany before drilling them out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started on the track frames and spacers but no pictures so will show that next time.
> 
> You have to remember one thing on these how toes.
> There's a hundred ways to do any thing you just have to use what you've got on hand.
> This is whats working for me with my cheap Harbor Freight tools.
> I used to have a shop full a tools but when I retired I thought I was out of wood working and gave away all my wore out tools. lol
> Thanks for checking in.


Out standing work. I really enjoy watching your progress. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Excavator day 6*
> 
> It's track day!!! part two
> 
> Showed this last time but just wanted you to be able to see the difference in the jig.
> 
> Drill the one finger then flip it and drill the other. [9/64 drill bit]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then started the other end using a 1/64 larger bit I'll show pictures why later.
> I drilled a little passed center then flipped it over and drilled the other side.
> I added a board under the jig so the tread wouldn't slip down under load
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I first drilled all the small fingered ones as in the first jig then drilled about 20 with the second jig and tried them out and they were ok but they need to be able to turn around a 2" wheel and these wouldn't come close.
> 
> So I sanded a 45 degree on* one side* of the small and large fingers this made the clearence needed to bend nicely.
> I made a jig on my sander to do this.
> First set sander at a 45 degree.
> I placed a fence parallel to the sanding disk a little bigger than the tread then brought the end at the out side of the wheel in to a distance I wanted for my 45 degree cut.
> Now I turn on the sander and place a tread at the loss end and slide it toward the out side, nice sanded 45 degree.
> The pictures do a much better job of telling the story.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *But I still have a problem???*
> The treads bend but head to the side just a bit plus when set down they sit up a little.
> You can see in picture the walnut or dark treads have been fixed but the lighter ones show where it needs work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went back and drilled all the big finger treads with a 1/64 bigger bit and all is fixed.
> Now they bend way more than enough and are straight.
> They wiggle just like a snake.
> 
> Here's a shot of the walnut with the bigger hole and the mahogany before drilling them out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started on the track frames and spacers but no pictures so will show that next time.
> 
> You have to remember one thing on these how toes.
> There's a hundred ways to do any thing you just have to use what you've got on hand.
> This is whats working for me with my cheap Harbor Freight tools.
> I used to have a shop full a tools but when I retired I thought I was out of wood working and gave away all my wore out tools. lol
> Thanks for checking in.


Dutchy The main reason I built this project was to get my feet wet with tracks.
I bought walnut for the excavator but had a bunch of extra mahogany around so why not make two set of tracks one for another project. I know some use a different style but hey I just wanted to make two sets. ??? 
I don't know why. LOL
This way I can try and see which color looks better with my toy.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Excavator day 6*
> 
> It's track day!!! part two
> 
> Showed this last time but just wanted you to be able to see the difference in the jig.
> 
> Drill the one finger then flip it and drill the other. [9/64 drill bit]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then started the other end using a 1/64 larger bit I'll show pictures why later.
> I drilled a little passed center then flipped it over and drilled the other side.
> I added a board under the jig so the tread wouldn't slip down under load
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I first drilled all the small fingered ones as in the first jig then drilled about 20 with the second jig and tried them out and they were ok but they need to be able to turn around a 2" wheel and these wouldn't come close.
> 
> So I sanded a 45 degree on* one side* of the small and large fingers this made the clearence needed to bend nicely.
> I made a jig on my sander to do this.
> First set sander at a 45 degree.
> I placed a fence parallel to the sanding disk a little bigger than the tread then brought the end at the out side of the wheel in to a distance I wanted for my 45 degree cut.
> Now I turn on the sander and place a tread at the loss end and slide it toward the out side, nice sanded 45 degree.
> The pictures do a much better job of telling the story.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *But I still have a problem???*
> The treads bend but head to the side just a bit plus when set down they sit up a little.
> You can see in picture the walnut or dark treads have been fixed but the lighter ones show where it needs work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went back and drilled all the big finger treads with a 1/64 bigger bit and all is fixed.
> Now they bend way more than enough and are straight.
> They wiggle just like a snake.
> 
> Here's a shot of the walnut with the bigger hole and the mahogany before drilling them out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started on the track frames and spacers but no pictures so will show that next time.
> 
> You have to remember one thing on these how toes.
> There's a hundred ways to do any thing you just have to use what you've got on hand.
> This is whats working for me with my cheap Harbor Freight tools.
> I used to have a shop full a tools but when I retired I thought I was out of wood working and gave away all my wore out tools. lol
> Thanks for checking in.


Dutchy LOL
I reread my posts and see where your coming from.
"*why you made one dark and one light colored*." 
I made just a few 20 of each experimenting on what would work for me.
Didn't want to get it wrong and not have enough walnut to get er done.
Most things I'm not afraid to try something different but there's just to many to remake if I do get it wrong.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Excavator day 6*
> 
> It's track day!!! part two
> 
> Showed this last time but just wanted you to be able to see the difference in the jig.
> 
> Drill the one finger then flip it and drill the other. [9/64 drill bit]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then started the other end using a 1/64 larger bit I'll show pictures why later.
> I drilled a little passed center then flipped it over and drilled the other side.
> I added a board under the jig so the tread wouldn't slip down under load
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I first drilled all the small fingered ones as in the first jig then drilled about 20 with the second jig and tried them out and they were ok but they need to be able to turn around a 2" wheel and these wouldn't come close.
> 
> So I sanded a 45 degree on* one side* of the small and large fingers this made the clearence needed to bend nicely.
> I made a jig on my sander to do this.
> First set sander at a 45 degree.
> I placed a fence parallel to the sanding disk a little bigger than the tread then brought the end at the out side of the wheel in to a distance I wanted for my 45 degree cut.
> Now I turn on the sander and place a tread at the loss end and slide it toward the out side, nice sanded 45 degree.
> The pictures do a much better job of telling the story.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *But I still have a problem???*
> The treads bend but head to the side just a bit plus when set down they sit up a little.
> You can see in picture the walnut or dark treads have been fixed but the lighter ones show where it needs work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went back and drilled all the big finger treads with a 1/64 bigger bit and all is fixed.
> Now they bend way more than enough and are straight.
> They wiggle just like a snake.
> 
> Here's a shot of the walnut with the bigger hole and the mahogany before drilling them out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started on the track frames and spacers but no pictures so will show that next time.
> 
> You have to remember one thing on these how toes.
> There's a hundred ways to do any thing you just have to use what you've got on hand.
> This is whats working for me with my cheap Harbor Freight tools.
> I used to have a shop full a tools but when I retired I thought I was out of wood working and gave away all my wore out tools. lol
> Thanks for checking in.


Thought I should add this here.









I dado the splines so they would be strait and would be easier to glue up.
I also doweled the guides so they too would be easier to glue up.
I used tooth picks for dowels.


----------



## htl

*Time to make so wheels *

Had to get in to something else for a change, and wheels is next in line.

No those aren't chocolate flavored Cheerios

40 3/4" wheels.
We need 36 but thought I better make some extras.
Their walnut with sassafras liners.
I used a hole saw to make then then had to fill the to big guide hole with sassafras then drilled it to size.
You'll see them a little different in the second picture, kinda looks like bearing to me.









Changing the look with a power drive wheel, don't really know what it's called but that sounds heavy duty to me.
Another one of those tooth pick jobs.
Hey I got boxes of them got to use them up some where.



















Needed to taper the edge of all those wheels so made a jig.
There is a sheet rock screw in the jig down in the miter grove that stops the jig when in place.


















It's the end of the day lets put it together and have a look.
No where near ready just want to get a look at it.


























One picture with flash on, one without.


















That's all.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Time to make so wheels *
> 
> Had to get in to something else for a change, and wheels is next in line.
> 
> No those aren't chocolate flavored Cheerios
> 
> 40 3/4" wheels.
> We need 36 but thought I better make some extras.
> Their walnut with sassafras liners.
> I used a hole saw to make then then had to fill the to big guide hole with sassafras then drilled it to size.
> You'll see them a little different in the second picture, kinda looks like bearing to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Changing the look with a power drive wheel, don't really know what it's called but that sounds heavy duty to me.
> Another one of those tooth pick jobs.
> Hey I got boxes of them got to use them up some where.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Needed to taper the edge of all those wheels so made a jig.
> There is a sheet rock screw in the jig down in the miter grove that stops the jig when in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's the end of the day lets put it together and have a look.
> No where near ready just want to get a look at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One picture with flash on, one without.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all.


Looks good Bruce. I like that jig. I always taper the edge freehand, but your way is better. Thanks.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Time to make so wheels *
> 
> Had to get in to something else for a change, and wheels is next in line.
> 
> No those aren't chocolate flavored Cheerios
> 
> 40 3/4" wheels.
> We need 36 but thought I better make some extras.
> Their walnut with sassafras liners.
> I used a hole saw to make then then had to fill the to big guide hole with sassafras then drilled it to size.
> You'll see them a little different in the second picture, kinda looks like bearing to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Changing the look with a power drive wheel, don't really know what it's called but that sounds heavy duty to me.
> Another one of those tooth pick jobs.
> Hey I got boxes of them got to use them up some where.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Needed to taper the edge of all those wheels so made a jig.
> There is a sheet rock screw in the jig down in the miter grove that stops the jig when in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's the end of the day lets put it together and have a look.
> No where near ready just want to get a look at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One picture with flash on, one without.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all.


Now that's very impressive, sir….


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Time to make so wheels *
> 
> Had to get in to something else for a change, and wheels is next in line.
> 
> No those aren't chocolate flavored Cheerios
> 
> 40 3/4" wheels.
> We need 36 but thought I better make some extras.
> Their walnut with sassafras liners.
> I used a hole saw to make then then had to fill the to big guide hole with sassafras then drilled it to size.
> You'll see them a little different in the second picture, kinda looks like bearing to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Changing the look with a power drive wheel, don't really know what it's called but that sounds heavy duty to me.
> Another one of those tooth pick jobs.
> Hey I got boxes of them got to use them up some where.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Needed to taper the edge of all those wheels so made a jig.
> There is a sheet rock screw in the jig down in the miter grove that stops the jig when in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's the end of the day lets put it together and have a look.
> No where near ready just want to get a look at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One picture with flash on, one without.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all.


Thanks Dutcky
I put a screw in at an angle so I can screw it in or out to fine tune the taper.
This was just a scrape piece a wood don't even know what the angle is.
I think I will be using something like this a lot need to make a true adjustable jig.
Thanks crowie
It's taking longer to add all the little things than it took to build the whole toy.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Time to make so wheels *
> 
> Had to get in to something else for a change, and wheels is next in line.
> 
> No those aren't chocolate flavored Cheerios
> 
> 40 3/4" wheels.
> We need 36 but thought I better make some extras.
> Their walnut with sassafras liners.
> I used a hole saw to make then then had to fill the to big guide hole with sassafras then drilled it to size.
> You'll see them a little different in the second picture, kinda looks like bearing to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Changing the look with a power drive wheel, don't really know what it's called but that sounds heavy duty to me.
> Another one of those tooth pick jobs.
> Hey I got boxes of them got to use them up some where.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Needed to taper the edge of all those wheels so made a jig.
> There is a sheet rock screw in the jig down in the miter grove that stops the jig when in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's the end of the day lets put it together and have a look.
> No where near ready just want to get a look at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One picture with flash on, one without.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all.


I see in pictures others clean tighty shops don't know how they do it, man this toy building really makes the dust.
I just use my home made cyclone to vac up the floor and tools and in the 7 days on this project I've dumped out 5 gal. of dust.
I also blow it out with the weed blower and there's a bunch out the door.

Might just mention that the sassafras makes me sneeze a little more than oak and mahogany so any one sensitive to dust my want to steer clear.


----------



## htl

*It's starting to come together Hydraulics*

Here's a great tool for buffing off small parts with out rounding the edges.



























There needs to be a 1/2" slack for the tracks to move smoothly but when it's not going to be moved around I'd like it to look nice and tight so made the power wheels axle adjustable still need to make a nice nob for the back but it'll come.




























Started on the hydraulics out in my cold cold shop. lol



























I know he needs some under arm deodorant but is sassafras, so it's not to bad.










Drilling over 4" in to a 1/2" dowel is a real test of any doweling jig.
I tried 3 different jigs before I found what worked consistently for me.









That's all for now thanks for looking in.


----------



## chief101

htl said:


> *It's starting to come together Hydraulics*
> 
> Here's a great tool for buffing off small parts with out rounding the edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There needs to be a 1/2" slack for the tracks to move smoothly but when it's not going to be moved around I'd like it to look nice and tight so made the power wheels axle adjustable still need to make a nice nob for the back but it'll come.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Started on the hydraulics out in my cold cold shop. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know he needs some under arm deodorant but is sassafras, so it's not to bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling over 4" in to a 1/2" dowel is a real test of any doweling jig.
> I tried 3 different jigs before I found what worked consistently for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all for now thanks for looking in.


Amazing work. I like all the intricate works. Thanks for sharing as you progress,


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *It's starting to come together Hydraulics*
> 
> Here's a great tool for buffing off small parts with out rounding the edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There needs to be a 1/2" slack for the tracks to move smoothly but when it's not going to be moved around I'd like it to look nice and tight so made the power wheels axle adjustable still need to make a nice nob for the back but it'll come.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Started on the hydraulics out in my cold cold shop. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know he needs some under arm deodorant but is sassafras, so it's not to bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling over 4" in to a 1/2" dowel is a real test of any doweling jig.
> I tried 3 different jigs before I found what worked consistently for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all for now thanks for looking in.


This just keeps getting better Bruce…thank you for all the photos & notes…...


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *It's starting to come together Hydraulics*
> 
> Here's a great tool for buffing off small parts with out rounding the edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There needs to be a 1/2" slack for the tracks to move smoothly but when it's not going to be moved around I'd like it to look nice and tight so made the power wheels axle adjustable still need to make a nice nob for the back but it'll come.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Started on the hydraulics out in my cold cold shop. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know he needs some under arm deodorant but is sassafras, so it's not to bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling over 4" in to a 1/2" dowel is a real test of any doweling jig.
> I tried 3 different jigs before I found what worked consistently for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all for now thanks for looking in.


Nice to see you made the tracks lenght adjustable. That is clever and also wisely.

Also like that row of sockets above your workbench.


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## johnstoneb

htl said:


> *It's starting to come together Hydraulics*
> 
> Here's a great tool for buffing off small parts with out rounding the edges.
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> There needs to be a 1/2" slack for the tracks to move smoothly but when it's not going to be moved around I'd like it to look nice and tight so made the power wheels axle adjustable still need to make a nice nob for the back but it'll come.
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> Started on the hydraulics out in my cold cold shop. lol
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> I know he needs some under arm deodorant but is sassafras, so it's not to bad.
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> Drilling over 4" in to a 1/2" dowel is a real test of any doweling jig.
> I tried 3 different jigs before I found what worked consistently for me.
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> That's all for now thanks for looking in.


That is looking good. I like your adjustable track tension. I like to see improvements on the original plans and you are certainly doing that.


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## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *It's starting to come together Hydraulics*
> 
> Here's a great tool for buffing off small parts with out rounding the edges.
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> There needs to be a 1/2" slack for the tracks to move smoothly but when it's not going to be moved around I'd like it to look nice and tight so made the power wheels axle adjustable still need to make a nice nob for the back but it'll come.
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> Started on the hydraulics out in my cold cold shop. lol
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> I know he needs some under arm deodorant but is sassafras, so it's not to bad.
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> 
> Drilling over 4" in to a 1/2" dowel is a real test of any doweling jig.
> I tried 3 different jigs before I found what worked consistently for me.
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> That's all for now thanks for looking in.


What? ANOTHER toy maker on here ??

My wife says I already spend too many hours each day online! I keep telling her it takes TIME to look thru all these cool projects ! And yours is yet another one of them ! Nice !


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## htl

*Fiddling with the small stuff excavator*

I could have had this thing done a week ago if I had stayed with the plans. lol
I keep adding ideas and making it more complicated than it already is.

But that's part of the fun of it.
This is a brain puzzle that needs to be solved.

All of the big stuff is done but I can't bring myself to glue it up so yesterday I doweled all the bases and engine compartment so it will be able to come apart for one last sanding at the end.
Played with the cabin furniture.
Our operator is in his chair all day so he needed some cushions to be comfy.




























Remember one thing this is not a play toy it's a poser so making things stay in one place is more important to me then function or play ability..

Here's how the power wheel is adjustable, not set in stone may jiggle it around a little more before I'm done.
When all is tightened down the wheel floats on the all thread.

























The arm is the main thing I want to stay in one place up.
I'm bolting the boom so it can be tightened and stay in one place, the other arm will be bolted too just haven't got to it yet.
I will be hiding all the metal work so it looks like it's all wood when I'm done.


















Fighting with the idea of hinging the door but I just don't know if it's worth the heartache when the hing breaks.
Any votes for or against ??? lol





































That's all focks!


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## JulianLech

htl said:


> *Fiddling with the small stuff excavator*
> 
> I could have had this thing done a week ago if I had stayed with the plans. lol
> I keep adding ideas and making it more complicated than it already is.
> 
> But that's part of the fun of it.
> This is a brain puzzle that needs to be solved.
> 
> All of the big stuff is done but I can't bring myself to glue it up so yesterday I doweled all the bases and engine compartment so it will be able to come apart for one last sanding at the end.
> Played with the cabin furniture.
> Our operator is in his chair all day so he needed some cushions to be comfy.
> 
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> 
> Remember one thing this is not a play toy it's a poser so making things stay in one place is more important to me then function or play ability..
> 
> Here's how the power wheel is adjustable, not set in stone may jiggle it around a little more before I'm done.
> When all is tightened down the wheel floats on the all thread.
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> The arm is the main thing I want to stay in one place up.
> I'm bolting the boom so it can be tightened and stay in one place, the other arm will be bolted too just haven't got to it yet.
> I will be hiding all the metal work so it looks like it's all wood when I'm done.
> 
> 
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> Fighting with the idea of hinging the door but I just don't know if it's worth the heartache when the hing breaks.
> Any votes for or against ??? lol
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> That's all focks!


That is fantastic.


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Fiddling with the small stuff excavator*
> 
> I could have had this thing done a week ago if I had stayed with the plans. lol
> I keep adding ideas and making it more complicated than it already is.
> 
> But that's part of the fun of it.
> This is a brain puzzle that needs to be solved.
> 
> All of the big stuff is done but I can't bring myself to glue it up so yesterday I doweled all the bases and engine compartment so it will be able to come apart for one last sanding at the end.
> Played with the cabin furniture.
> Our operator is in his chair all day so he needed some cushions to be comfy.
> 
> 
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> 
> Remember one thing this is not a play toy it's a poser so making things stay in one place is more important to me then function or play ability..
> 
> Here's how the power wheel is adjustable, not set in stone may jiggle it around a little more before I'm done.
> When all is tightened down the wheel floats on the all thread.
> 
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> 
> The arm is the main thing I want to stay in one place up.
> I'm bolting the boom so it can be tightened and stay in one place, the other arm will be bolted too just haven't got to it yet.
> I will be hiding all the metal work so it looks like it's all wood when I'm done.
> 
> 
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> 
> Fighting with the idea of hinging the door but I just don't know if it's worth the heartache when the hing breaks.
> Any votes for or against ??? lol
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> That's all focks!


Are you keeping track(poor pun) of the hours you have expended on this endeavor?

Great work; but extremely time consuming!


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## johnstoneb

htl said:


> *Fiddling with the small stuff excavator*
> 
> I could have had this thing done a week ago if I had stayed with the plans. lol
> I keep adding ideas and making it more complicated than it already is.
> 
> But that's part of the fun of it.
> This is a brain puzzle that needs to be solved.
> 
> All of the big stuff is done but I can't bring myself to glue it up so yesterday I doweled all the bases and engine compartment so it will be able to come apart for one last sanding at the end.
> Played with the cabin furniture.
> Our operator is in his chair all day so he needed some cushions to be comfy.
> 
> 
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> 
> Remember one thing this is not a play toy it's a poser so making things stay in one place is more important to me then function or play ability..
> 
> Here's how the power wheel is adjustable, not set in stone may jiggle it around a little more before I'm done.
> When all is tightened down the wheel floats on the all thread.
> 
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> 
> The arm is the main thing I want to stay in one place up.
> I'm bolting the boom so it can be tightened and stay in one place, the other arm will be bolted too just haven't got to it yet.
> I will be hiding all the metal work so it looks like it's all wood when I'm done.
> 
> 
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> Fighting with the idea of hinging the door but I just don't know if it's worth the heartache when the hing breaks.
> Any votes for or against ??? lol
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> That's all focks!


I think a hinge for the door would be great. Maybe 1/8" dowel.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Fiddling with the small stuff excavator*
> 
> I could have had this thing done a week ago if I had stayed with the plans. lol
> I keep adding ideas and making it more complicated than it already is.
> 
> But that's part of the fun of it.
> This is a brain puzzle that needs to be solved.
> 
> All of the big stuff is done but I can't bring myself to glue it up so yesterday I doweled all the bases and engine compartment so it will be able to come apart for one last sanding at the end.
> Played with the cabin furniture.
> Our operator is in his chair all day so he needed some cushions to be comfy.
> 
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> 
> Remember one thing this is not a play toy it's a poser so making things stay in one place is more important to me then function or play ability..
> 
> Here's how the power wheel is adjustable, not set in stone may jiggle it around a little more before I'm done.
> When all is tightened down the wheel floats on the all thread.
> 
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> 
> The arm is the main thing I want to stay in one place up.
> I'm bolting the boom so it can be tightened and stay in one place, the other arm will be bolted too just haven't got to it yet.
> I will be hiding all the metal work so it looks like it's all wood when I'm done.
> 
> 
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> 
> Fighting with the idea of hinging the door but I just don't know if it's worth the heartache when the hing breaks.
> Any votes for or against ??? lol
> 
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> That's all focks!


Thanks Julian

ralbuck
I post nearly every day I build so, 
Ten days so far [6 hour days]
I'm retired so have the time and it helps full it.
The need to create doesn't stop when you retire and my health won't let me build the bigger things I used to do, but even when I was building house cabinets and doing other things heavy construction and the like toy building has always been my first love in wood working.

One vote for hinge. Thanks john


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Fiddling with the small stuff excavator*
> 
> I could have had this thing done a week ago if I had stayed with the plans. lol
> I keep adding ideas and making it more complicated than it already is.
> 
> But that's part of the fun of it.
> This is a brain puzzle that needs to be solved.
> 
> All of the big stuff is done but I can't bring myself to glue it up so yesterday I doweled all the bases and engine compartment so it will be able to come apart for one last sanding at the end.
> Played with the cabin furniture.
> Our operator is in his chair all day so he needed some cushions to be comfy.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Remember one thing this is not a play toy it's a poser so making things stay in one place is more important to me then function or play ability..
> 
> Here's how the power wheel is adjustable, not set in stone may jiggle it around a little more before I'm done.
> When all is tightened down the wheel floats on the all thread.
> 
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> 
> The arm is the main thing I want to stay in one place up.
> I'm bolting the boom so it can be tightened and stay in one place, the other arm will be bolted too just haven't got to it yet.
> I will be hiding all the metal work so it looks like it's all wood when I'm done.
> 
> 
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> 
> Fighting with the idea of hinging the door but I just don't know if it's worth the heartache when the hing breaks.
> Any votes for or against ??? lol
> 
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> That's all focks!


It is getting to the end. I,m glad to hear that you enjoy the building. Your chair and cabin handles are graet, as well as the rest of course. Don't use hinges, and in my opinion when you do than you first have to make a new cabin side panel. You used iron to make the arm stay in place. That is okay of coarse. But when you don't want iron it is also possible with wood. This is absolutely not a criticism but merely an hint. I did it with wood at my hydraulic crane with a boom of almost two meter. This boom will stay in almost every position. Here you can see how it did this. Excuse me for giving this hint.


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## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Fiddling with the small stuff excavator*
> 
> I could have had this thing done a week ago if I had stayed with the plans. lol
> I keep adding ideas and making it more complicated than it already is.
> 
> But that's part of the fun of it.
> This is a brain puzzle that needs to be solved.
> 
> All of the big stuff is done but I can't bring myself to glue it up so yesterday I doweled all the bases and engine compartment so it will be able to come apart for one last sanding at the end.
> Played with the cabin furniture.
> Our operator is in his chair all day so he needed some cushions to be comfy.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Remember one thing this is not a play toy it's a poser so making things stay in one place is more important to me then function or play ability..
> 
> Here's how the power wheel is adjustable, not set in stone may jiggle it around a little more before I'm done.
> When all is tightened down the wheel floats on the all thread.
> 
> 
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> 
> The arm is the main thing I want to stay in one place up.
> I'm bolting the boom so it can be tightened and stay in one place, the other arm will be bolted too just haven't got to it yet.
> I will be hiding all the metal work so it looks like it's all wood when I'm done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Fighting with the idea of hinging the door but I just don't know if it's worth the heartache when the hing breaks.
> Any votes for or against ??? lol
> 
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> That's all focks!


This thing looks badass and it aint even DONE YET!

Since you asked for "opinions" on the door, here's mine. You say it will be a "show piece" rather than a play toy. I'm wondering if you might be thinking the door is hiding a lot of your detail work? If that's the case, why not just leave it off so people can see in the cabin.

OR…. mount it in the open position.

OR … maybe you could use a couple small dowels to hold in it place so it's removable?

Just throwing some ideas out there.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Fiddling with the small stuff excavator*
> 
> I could have had this thing done a week ago if I had stayed with the plans. lol
> I keep adding ideas and making it more complicated than it already is.
> 
> But that's part of the fun of it.
> This is a brain puzzle that needs to be solved.
> 
> All of the big stuff is done but I can't bring myself to glue it up so yesterday I doweled all the bases and engine compartment so it will be able to come apart for one last sanding at the end.
> Played with the cabin furniture.
> Our operator is in his chair all day so he needed some cushions to be comfy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remember one thing this is not a play toy it's a poser so making things stay in one place is more important to me then function or play ability..
> 
> Here's how the power wheel is adjustable, not set in stone may jiggle it around a little more before I'm done.
> When all is tightened down the wheel floats on the all thread.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> The arm is the main thing I want to stay in one place up.
> I'm bolting the boom so it can be tightened and stay in one place, the other arm will be bolted too just haven't got to it yet.
> I will be hiding all the metal work so it looks like it's all wood when I'm done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Fighting with the idea of hinging the door but I just don't know if it's worth the heartache when the hing breaks.
> Any votes for or against ??? lol
> 
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> That's all focks!


Thanks Dutchy for the tip.
Your T&J plans show how to do this on the excavator they don't show this may be a different designer for the two different builds.
Before I got into building these great construction projects I read and read about so many projects it all starts to run together and I forget where the ideas for things came from.
This is the case with this tip, it was in the back of my mind to do it but just but???
I do like the idea of tightening a bolt and it not moving.
My wife will be the one to dust it and after nearly 40 years of dusting my toys she won't be gentle with them so better to be cranked down.
I hope you see what I mean.

Thanks Joeinga 
I would never use a store bought metal hing on this project just wouldn't work.
I kinda wish I hadn't cut out the door but that's behind me now.
In doll house builds they drill a small hole at the bottom and top of the frame them drill a hole in the door and slip a dowel in for the hinge may go that way.
The only problem it can have a pretty big gap.

It's funny how we have to be careful how we word things on here or the web.
Just a word in the wrong place can set some people off.
This may be one of the reasons why some won't comment on a project or tell of a different way to go about it.
For me I'm thrilled to see a better and best of all easier way to get ur done.
So keep the suggestions coming.
Thanks for looking in and letting me see your projects as well.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Fiddling with the small stuff excavator*
> 
> I could have had this thing done a week ago if I had stayed with the plans. lol
> I keep adding ideas and making it more complicated than it already is.
> 
> But that's part of the fun of it.
> This is a brain puzzle that needs to be solved.
> 
> All of the big stuff is done but I can't bring myself to glue it up so yesterday I doweled all the bases and engine compartment so it will be able to come apart for one last sanding at the end.
> Played with the cabin furniture.
> Our operator is in his chair all day so he needed some cushions to be comfy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remember one thing this is not a play toy it's a poser so making things stay in one place is more important to me then function or play ability..
> 
> Here's how the power wheel is adjustable, not set in stone may jiggle it around a little more before I'm done.
> When all is tightened down the wheel floats on the all thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> The arm is the main thing I want to stay in one place up.
> I'm bolting the boom so it can be tightened and stay in one place, the other arm will be bolted too just haven't got to it yet.
> I will be hiding all the metal work so it looks like it's all wood when I'm done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fighting with the idea of hinging the door but I just don't know if it's worth the heartache when the hing breaks.
> Any votes for or against ??? lol
> 
> 
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> That's all focks!


I may have to build a new engine compartment just to many stripes???
And the cabin is wrong just not right.
Back to the drawing board. lol


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Fiddling with the small stuff excavator*
> 
> I could have had this thing done a week ago if I had stayed with the plans. lol
> I keep adding ideas and making it more complicated than it already is.
> 
> But that's part of the fun of it.
> This is a brain puzzle that needs to be solved.
> 
> All of the big stuff is done but I can't bring myself to glue it up so yesterday I doweled all the bases and engine compartment so it will be able to come apart for one last sanding at the end.
> Played with the cabin furniture.
> Our operator is in his chair all day so he needed some cushions to be comfy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remember one thing this is not a play toy it's a poser so making things stay in one place is more important to me then function or play ability..
> 
> Here's how the power wheel is adjustable, not set in stone may jiggle it around a little more before I'm done.
> When all is tightened down the wheel floats on the all thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The arm is the main thing I want to stay in one place up.
> I'm bolting the boom so it can be tightened and stay in one place, the other arm will be bolted too just haven't got to it yet.
> I will be hiding all the metal work so it looks like it's all wood when I'm done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fighting with the idea of hinging the door but I just don't know if it's worth the heartache when the hing breaks.
> Any votes for or against ??? lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all focks!


Certainly turning out beautifully, thank you for all the notes & photos….


----------



## htl

*New cabin and engine compartment*

I really wasn't liking the cabin and when I routed it around the edges I got the wild hair to route out the windows and now I really don't like it, so here's my second try.

*NEW*










*OLD*










Being more open it looks bigger but it's nearly the same size.
I also made a solid walnut engine compartment and pipe.








Did a lot but it just doesn't show this close to the finish.
Till next time.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *New cabin and engine compartment*
> 
> I really wasn't liking the cabin and when I routed it around the edges I got the wild hair to route out the windows and now I really don't like it, so here's my second try.
> 
> *NEW*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OLD*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being more open it looks bigger but it's nearly the same size.
> I also made a solid walnut engine compartment and pipe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did a lot but it just doesn't show this close to the finish.
> Till next time.


You took a good decision. Nice cabin.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *New cabin and engine compartment*
> 
> I really wasn't liking the cabin and when I routed it around the edges I got the wild hair to route out the windows and now I really don't like it, so here's my second try.
> 
> *NEW*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OLD*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being more open it looks bigger but it's nearly the same size.
> I also made a solid walnut engine compartment and pipe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did a lot but it just doesn't show this close to the finish.
> Till next time.


It's way different having trouble getting used to the new look.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *New cabin and engine compartment*
> 
> I really wasn't liking the cabin and when I routed it around the edges I got the wild hair to route out the windows and now I really don't like it, so here's my second try.
> 
> *NEW*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OLD*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being more open it looks bigger but it's nearly the same size.
> I also made a solid walnut engine compartment and pipe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did a lot but it just doesn't show this close to the finish.
> Till next time.


I like what you've done sir…beautiful cabin


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *New cabin and engine compartment*
> 
> I really wasn't liking the cabin and when I routed it around the edges I got the wild hair to route out the windows and now I really don't like it, so here's my second try.
> 
> *NEW*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OLD*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being more open it looks bigger but it's nearly the same size.
> I also made a solid walnut engine compartment and pipe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did a lot but it just doesn't show this close to the finish.
> Till next time.


Crowie Dutchy did you happen to see what I did wrong?
I was in such a hurry to get it glued up I forgot to cut out the front and back windows.
Got it fixed and learned some new to me tricks along the way.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *New cabin and engine compartment*
> 
> I really wasn't liking the cabin and when I routed it around the edges I got the wild hair to route out the windows and now I really don't like it, so here's my second try.
> 
> *NEW*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OLD*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being more open it looks bigger but it's nearly the same size.
> I also made a solid walnut engine compartment and pipe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did a lot but it just doesn't show this close to the finish.
> Till next time.





> Crowie Dutchy did you happen to see what I did wrong?
> I was in such a hurry to get it glued up I forgot to cut out the front and back windows.
> Got it fixed and learned some new to me tricks along the way.
> 
> - htl


Small oversight than can be rectified by a clever craftsman as yourself…..


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *New cabin and engine compartment*
> 
> I really wasn't liking the cabin and when I routed it around the edges I got the wild hair to route out the windows and now I really don't like it, so here's my second try.
> 
> *NEW*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OLD*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being more open it looks bigger but it's nearly the same size.
> I also made a solid walnut engine compartment and pipe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did a lot but it just doesn't show this close to the finish.
> Till next time.


Crowie if I was cleaver it wouldn't have happened in the first place.
I finally got up the nerve yesterday to glue up the big parts and put some hand rubbed finish on it, that sassafras really looks good with the walnut..
Just glue up the tracks and a few other small parts and finished.

It's 35 in the shop BRRRRR


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *New cabin and engine compartment*
> 
> I really wasn't liking the cabin and when I routed it around the edges I got the wild hair to route out the windows and now I really don't like it, so here's my second try.
> 
> *NEW*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OLD*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being more open it looks bigger but it's nearly the same size.
> I also made a solid walnut engine compartment and pipe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did a lot but it just doesn't show this close to the finish.
> Till next time.





> Crowie if I was cleaver it wouldn t have happened in the first place.
> I finally got up the nerve yesterday to glue up the big parts and put some hand rubbed finish on it, that sassafras really looks good with the walnut..
> Just glue up the tracks and a few other small parts and finished.
> 
> It s 30 in the shop BRRRRR
> 
> - htl


And you are talking 30deg"c" ...we have the next 4 days of high 30's deg"c" to 40deg"c" on Thursday….


----------



## helluvawreck

htl said:


> *New cabin and engine compartment*
> 
> I really wasn't liking the cabin and when I routed it around the edges I got the wild hair to route out the windows and now I really don't like it, so here's my second try.
> 
> *NEW*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OLD*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being more open it looks bigger but it's nearly the same size.
> I also made a solid walnut engine compartment and pipe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did a lot but it just doesn't show this close to the finish.
> Till next time.


This is turning out nicely. It will be a remarkable miniature with a wealth of detail. You have to be a diligent and patient craftsman to cope with the many details.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *New cabin and engine compartment*
> 
> I really wasn't liking the cabin and when I routed it around the edges I got the wild hair to route out the windows and now I really don't like it, so here's my second try.
> 
> *NEW*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OLD*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being more open it looks bigger but it's nearly the same size.
> I also made a solid walnut engine compartment and pipe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did a lot but it just doesn't show this close to the finish.
> Till next time.


crowie I'm talking the big F we're at like 2 decrees above freezing. 34F BRRRRR
This is Huntsville Alabama we don't get much cooled down here. lol


----------



## htl

*Got ur done*

One or two more things to do but will be waiting for warmer weather come Feb..
So here she is.

*Thanks* for all that followed the build and too all that gave me ideas and help an extra *THANKS!!!*.


























Here's the project page.
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/215074


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Got ur done*
> 
> One or two more things to do but will be waiting for warmer weather come Feb..
> So here she is.
> 
> *Thanks* for all that followed the build and too all that gave me ideas and help an extra *THANKS!!!*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the project page.
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/215074


Certainly come up a treat Brain… beautiful woodwork by a top craftsman sir….


----------



## chief101

htl said:


> *Got ur done*
> 
> One or two more things to do but will be waiting for warmer weather come Feb..
> So here she is.
> 
> *Thanks* for all that followed the build and too all that gave me ideas and help an extra *THANKS!!!*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the project page.
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/215074


Absolutely beautiful. Great job and thanks for sharing the project from start too finish.


----------



## BurlyBob

htl said:


> *Got ur done*
> 
> One or two more things to do but will be waiting for warmer weather come Feb..
> So here she is.
> 
> *Thanks* for all that followed the build and too all that gave me ideas and help an extra *THANKS!!!*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the project page.
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/215074


Wow, that is fantastic!


----------



## htl

*Well Drilling Rig 1*

Been really cold out in the shop as some of you may have noticed so just a hit and miss with building the well drilling rig.

I really wasn't planning on building it but needed a drill chuck for my new to me Shop Smith and found one over at Grizzly and while I was over there found the well rig and the the Belly Dump Trailer plans with a deep discount so got both of them and the chuck was paying the shipping so It don't get much cheaper than free shipping on both plans. lol 
So now all I'll need is a truck to pull them with and Dutchys started a blog on that so how cool is that.

Here's my start on it, just making all the little tanks and fans right now.
The drilling tower looks like it will take a lot of study to figure it out but that's what it's all about so looking forward to it.








The wood for the deck is ??? maple, it was a nice paneled cabinet door at one time.
You can see the bead board look it had on the bottom.



















I ran out in the shop and took some quick pictures of what I've made so far.
Their just sitting about where they will go and I noticed the fans on it's side but just wanted to give a look at it so far.

















The compressor tank is part broom handle and part porch umbrella handle.
I knew I had scrounged them up for something, now we know what it was. lol


















Till next time stay warm and you down under stay cool.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Well Drilling Rig 1*
> 
> Been really cold out in the shop as some of you may have noticed so just a hit and miss with building the well drilling rig.
> 
> I really wasn't planning on building it but needed a drill chuck for my new to me Shop Smith and found one over at Grizzly and while I was over there found the well rig and the the Belly Dump Trailer plans with a deep discount so got both of them and the chuck was paying the shipping so It don't get much cheaper than free shipping on both plans. lol
> So now all I'll need is a truck to pull them with and Dutchys started a blog on that so how cool is that.
> 
> Here's my start on it, just making all the little tanks and fans right now.
> The drilling tower looks like it will take a lot of study to figure it out but that's what it's all about so looking forward to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood for the deck is ??? maple, it was a nice paneled cabinet door at one time.
> You can see the bead board look it had on the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ran out in the shop and took some quick pictures of what I've made so far.
> Their just sitting about where they will go and I noticed the fans on it's side but just wanted to give a look at it so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The compressor tank is part broom handle and part porch umbrella handle.
> I knew I had scrounged them up for something, now we know what it was. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Till next time stay warm and you down under stay cool.


You have don a lot already!

BTW: Dust cleaning this well drilling rig is hard to do.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Well Drilling Rig 1*
> 
> Been really cold out in the shop as some of you may have noticed so just a hit and miss with building the well drilling rig.
> 
> I really wasn't planning on building it but needed a drill chuck for my new to me Shop Smith and found one over at Grizzly and while I was over there found the well rig and the the Belly Dump Trailer plans with a deep discount so got both of them and the chuck was paying the shipping so It don't get much cheaper than free shipping on both plans. lol
> So now all I'll need is a truck to pull them with and Dutchys started a blog on that so how cool is that.
> 
> Here's my start on it, just making all the little tanks and fans right now.
> The drilling tower looks like it will take a lot of study to figure it out but that's what it's all about so looking forward to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood for the deck is ??? maple, it was a nice paneled cabinet door at one time.
> You can see the bead board look it had on the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ran out in the shop and took some quick pictures of what I've made so far.
> Their just sitting about where they will go and I noticed the fans on it's side but just wanted to give a look at it so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The compressor tank is part broom handle and part porch umbrella handle.
> I knew I had scrounged them up for something, now we know what it was. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Till next time stay warm and you down under stay cool.





> BTW: Dust cleaning this well drilling rig is hard to do.
> 
> - Dutchy


I didn't understand where you were going then it hit me and your right, keeping it dusted will be a job.
Been thinking of getting the wife to sew some dust covers for my toys.


----------



## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Well Drilling Rig 1*
> 
> Been really cold out in the shop as some of you may have noticed so just a hit and miss with building the well drilling rig.
> 
> I really wasn't planning on building it but needed a drill chuck for my new to me Shop Smith and found one over at Grizzly and while I was over there found the well rig and the the Belly Dump Trailer plans with a deep discount so got both of them and the chuck was paying the shipping so It don't get much cheaper than free shipping on both plans. lol
> So now all I'll need is a truck to pull them with and Dutchys started a blog on that so how cool is that.
> 
> Here's my start on it, just making all the little tanks and fans right now.
> The drilling tower looks like it will take a lot of study to figure it out but that's what it's all about so looking forward to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood for the deck is ??? maple, it was a nice paneled cabinet door at one time.
> You can see the bead board look it had on the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ran out in the shop and took some quick pictures of what I've made so far.
> Their just sitting about where they will go and I noticed the fans on it's side but just wanted to give a look at it so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The compressor tank is part broom handle and part porch umbrella handle.
> I knew I had scrounged them up for something, now we know what it was. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Till next time stay warm and you down under stay cool.


You people make models; not toys!

Great work and still fun to do and see someone else's toys.

My avatar is a 6 foot long toy box!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Well Drilling Rig 1*
> 
> Been really cold out in the shop as some of you may have noticed so just a hit and miss with building the well drilling rig.
> 
> I really wasn't planning on building it but needed a drill chuck for my new to me Shop Smith and found one over at Grizzly and while I was over there found the well rig and the the Belly Dump Trailer plans with a deep discount so got both of them and the chuck was paying the shipping so It don't get much cheaper than free shipping on both plans. lol
> So now all I'll need is a truck to pull them with and Dutchys started a blog on that so how cool is that.
> 
> Here's my start on it, just making all the little tanks and fans right now.
> The drilling tower looks like it will take a lot of study to figure it out but that's what it's all about so looking forward to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood for the deck is ??? maple, it was a nice paneled cabinet door at one time.
> You can see the bead board look it had on the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ran out in the shop and took some quick pictures of what I've made so far.
> Their just sitting about where they will go and I noticed the fans on it's side but just wanted to give a look at it so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The compressor tank is part broom handle and part porch umbrella handle.
> I knew I had scrounged them up for something, now we know what it was. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Till next time stay warm and you down under stay cool.


ralbuck hey I play with it so it's a toy to me. lol


----------



## Dee1

htl said:


> *Well Drilling Rig 1*
> 
> Been really cold out in the shop as some of you may have noticed so just a hit and miss with building the well drilling rig.
> 
> I really wasn't planning on building it but needed a drill chuck for my new to me Shop Smith and found one over at Grizzly and while I was over there found the well rig and the the Belly Dump Trailer plans with a deep discount so got both of them and the chuck was paying the shipping so It don't get much cheaper than free shipping on both plans. lol
> So now all I'll need is a truck to pull them with and Dutchys started a blog on that so how cool is that.
> 
> Here's my start on it, just making all the little tanks and fans right now.
> The drilling tower looks like it will take a lot of study to figure it out but that's what it's all about so looking forward to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood for the deck is ??? maple, it was a nice paneled cabinet door at one time.
> You can see the bead board look it had on the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ran out in the shop and took some quick pictures of what I've made so far.
> Their just sitting about where they will go and I noticed the fans on it's side but just wanted to give a look at it so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The compressor tank is part broom handle and part porch umbrella handle.
> I knew I had scrounged them up for something, now we know what it was. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Till next time stay warm and you down under stay cool.


Looking very nice good work watching Dutchy and you start new projects I am getting itchy to start something but first I am going to build a new disc sander. 
Dee1


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Well Drilling Rig 1*
> 
> Been really cold out in the shop as some of you may have noticed so just a hit and miss with building the well drilling rig.
> 
> I really wasn't planning on building it but needed a drill chuck for my new to me Shop Smith and found one over at Grizzly and while I was over there found the well rig and the the Belly Dump Trailer plans with a deep discount so got both of them and the chuck was paying the shipping so It don't get much cheaper than free shipping on both plans. lol
> So now all I'll need is a truck to pull them with and Dutchys started a blog on that so how cool is that.
> 
> Here's my start on it, just making all the little tanks and fans right now.
> The drilling tower looks like it will take a lot of study to figure it out but that's what it's all about so looking forward to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood for the deck is ??? maple, it was a nice paneled cabinet door at one time.
> You can see the bead board look it had on the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ran out in the shop and took some quick pictures of what I've made so far.
> Their just sitting about where they will go and I noticed the fans on it's side but just wanted to give a look at it so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The compressor tank is part broom handle and part porch umbrella handle.
> I knew I had scrounged them up for something, now we know what it was. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Till next time stay warm and you down under stay cool.


Building jigs and tools is just as much fun as toys [models] and something you can use over and over.
Well be glad when you give us a look Dee1.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Well Drilling Rig 1*
> 
> Been really cold out in the shop as some of you may have noticed so just a hit and miss with building the well drilling rig.
> 
> I really wasn't planning on building it but needed a drill chuck for my new to me Shop Smith and found one over at Grizzly and while I was over there found the well rig and the the Belly Dump Trailer plans with a deep discount so got both of them and the chuck was paying the shipping so It don't get much cheaper than free shipping on both plans. lol
> So now all I'll need is a truck to pull them with and Dutchys started a blog on that so how cool is that.
> 
> Here's my start on it, just making all the little tanks and fans right now.
> The drilling tower looks like it will take a lot of study to figure it out but that's what it's all about so looking forward to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood for the deck is ??? maple, it was a nice paneled cabinet door at one time.
> You can see the bead board look it had on the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ran out in the shop and took some quick pictures of what I've made so far.
> Their just sitting about where they will go and I noticed the fans on it's side but just wanted to give a look at it so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The compressor tank is part broom handle and part porch umbrella handle.
> I knew I had scrounged them up for something, now we know what it was. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Till next time stay warm and you down under stay cool.


WOW, coolers with fans, pressure vessels…this rig is the real deal…


----------



## htl

*Drilling rig #2*

Well got another fairly warm day in the shop 50 degrees F.

Cut out the derrick sides and made a glue up jig to hold them together while I added the cross braces.
This is a little trickery because there are only three sides to it.








This is one of the great things about these plans, just copy, print out the plans, glue them to some wood clamp it up and you have all the angles and places to drill marked out.









Now glue on the braces and every thing will stay in place till the glue hardens.









There's 9 pages to these plans and it gets quite confusing keeping it all straight so I used colored pencils to color match all the different views of the parts.
Many parts are buried under other parts and very hard to see.
The top of a part may be in one view the bottom may show on another page or in three places on one page so coloring them helps you connect the dotes so to speak and find them quicker.










Here's my super duper mitering saw for really small parts.
I use this a lot so really need to build a better jig.










The derricks main cylinder is *10" long* so drilling it out was quite interesting.
This is a 1/2" oak dowel drilled with a 1/4" bit.
I love these Harbor Frieght drill bits they get er done their 25" long.





































Just put the dump truck in there so you could see how big this thing is going to be.
The truck is half the size of the Toy&Joys trucks.



















Happy modeling.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Drilling rig #2*
> 
> Well got another fairly warm day in the shop 50 degrees F.
> 
> Cut out the derrick sides and made a glue up jig to hold them together while I added the cross braces.
> This is a little trickery because there are only three sides to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is one of the great things about these plans, just copy, print out the plans, glue them to some wood clamp it up and you have all the angles and places to drill marked out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now glue on the braces and every thing will stay in place till the glue hardens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's 9 pages to these plans and it gets quite confusing keeping it all straight so I used colored pencils to color match all the different views of the parts.
> Many parts are buried under other parts and very hard to see.
> The top of a part may be in one view the bottom may show on another page or in three places on one page so coloring them helps you connect the dotes so to speak and find them quicker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my super duper mitering saw for really small parts.
> I use this a lot so really need to build a better jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The derricks main cylinder is *10" long* so drilling it out was quite interesting.
> This is a 1/2" oak dowel drilled with a 1/4" bit.
> I love these Harbor Frieght drill bits they get er done their 25" long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just put the dump truck in there so you could see how big this thing is going to be.
> The truck is half the size of the Toy&Joys trucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Happy modeling.


Many parts are buried under other parts and very hard to see. I know that problem.

*How* do you drill a 1/4 hole in a 1/2 dowel of 10" long. By me that always goes a bit awry. So I'm very curious.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Drilling rig #2*
> 
> Well got another fairly warm day in the shop 50 degrees F.
> 
> Cut out the derrick sides and made a glue up jig to hold them together while I added the cross braces.
> This is a little trickery because there are only three sides to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is one of the great things about these plans, just copy, print out the plans, glue them to some wood clamp it up and you have all the angles and places to drill marked out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now glue on the braces and every thing will stay in place till the glue hardens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's 9 pages to these plans and it gets quite confusing keeping it all straight so I used colored pencils to color match all the different views of the parts.
> Many parts are buried under other parts and very hard to see.
> The top of a part may be in one view the bottom may show on another page or in three places on one page so coloring them helps you connect the dotes so to speak and find them quicker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my super duper mitering saw for really small parts.
> I use this a lot so really need to build a better jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The derricks main cylinder is *10" long* so drilling it out was quite interesting.
> This is a 1/2" oak dowel drilled with a 1/4" bit.
> I love these Harbor Frieght drill bits they get er done their 25" long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just put the dump truck in there so you could see how big this thing is going to be.
> The truck is half the size of the Toy&Joys trucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Happy modeling.


Dutchy It's in the pictures how i did it.
I thought about making a how to about it but the jig you see [Dowel Crafter ] is 30 something years old and hasn't been made in years so not much help to any one.
I had one years ago and a friend borrowed it and lost it and have been looking on eBay off an on for years, then 3 months ago a guy up in Alaska had one on eBay and I grabbed that thing up quick!!!
I love this doweling jig, it drills 2 hole at a time for face frame work. 
I'll get some pictures of it later today.
If your still interested I can tell you how I did it and maybe you can substitute the Dowel Crafter with something else.


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Drilling rig #2*
> 
> Well got another fairly warm day in the shop 50 degrees F.
> 
> Cut out the derrick sides and made a glue up jig to hold them together while I added the cross braces.
> This is a little trickery because there are only three sides to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is one of the great things about these plans, just copy, print out the plans, glue them to some wood clamp it up and you have all the angles and places to drill marked out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now glue on the braces and every thing will stay in place till the glue hardens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's 9 pages to these plans and it gets quite confusing keeping it all straight so I used colored pencils to color match all the different views of the parts.
> Many parts are buried under other parts and very hard to see.
> The top of a part may be in one view the bottom may show on another page or in three places on one page so coloring them helps you connect the dotes so to speak and find them quicker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my super duper mitering saw for really small parts.
> I use this a lot so really need to build a better jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The derricks main cylinder is *10" long* so drilling it out was quite interesting.
> This is a 1/2" oak dowel drilled with a 1/4" bit.
> I love these Harbor Frieght drill bits they get er done their 25" long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just put the dump truck in there so you could see how big this thing is going to be.
> The truck is half the size of the Toy&Joys trucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Happy modeling.


Looking good so far. Lots of little parts to handle !


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Drilling rig #2*
> 
> Well got another fairly warm day in the shop 50 degrees F.
> 
> Cut out the derrick sides and made a glue up jig to hold them together while I added the cross braces.
> This is a little trickery because there are only three sides to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is one of the great things about these plans, just copy, print out the plans, glue them to some wood clamp it up and you have all the angles and places to drill marked out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now glue on the braces and every thing will stay in place till the glue hardens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's 9 pages to these plans and it gets quite confusing keeping it all straight so I used colored pencils to color match all the different views of the parts.
> Many parts are buried under other parts and very hard to see.
> The top of a part may be in one view the bottom may show on another page or in three places on one page so coloring them helps you connect the dotes so to speak and find them quicker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my super duper mitering saw for really small parts.
> I use this a lot so really need to build a better jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The derricks main cylinder is *10" long* so drilling it out was quite interesting.
> This is a 1/2" oak dowel drilled with a 1/4" bit.
> I love these Harbor Frieght drill bits they get er done their 25" long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just put the dump truck in there so you could see how big this thing is going to be.
> The truck is half the size of the Toy&Joys trucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Happy modeling.


I have looked again and googled on Dowel Crafter. You could say that we call that jig a boor bril (can't find a translation or a picture) A boor bril is guiding the drill. But what I don't understand is that you can drill a hole 10" long all parellel over the full length. When the centerpoint of a CV or HSS drill has a 0,05mm of center centerpoint it will run sideways. Also a drill of that length is mostly not 100% parallel. But whatever it is I will look for such thing like a Dowel Crafter. Thanks Bruce for your help.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Drilling rig #2*
> 
> Well got another fairly warm day in the shop 50 degrees F.
> 
> Cut out the derrick sides and made a glue up jig to hold them together while I added the cross braces.
> This is a little trickery because there are only three sides to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is one of the great things about these plans, just copy, print out the plans, glue them to some wood clamp it up and you have all the angles and places to drill marked out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now glue on the braces and every thing will stay in place till the glue hardens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's 9 pages to these plans and it gets quite confusing keeping it all straight so I used colored pencils to color match all the different views of the parts.
> Many parts are buried under other parts and very hard to see.
> The top of a part may be in one view the bottom may show on another page or in three places on one page so coloring them helps you connect the dotes so to speak and find them quicker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my super duper mitering saw for really small parts.
> I use this a lot so really need to build a better jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The derricks main cylinder is *10" long* so drilling it out was quite interesting.
> This is a 1/2" oak dowel drilled with a 1/4" bit.
> I love these Harbor Frieght drill bits they get er done their 25" long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just put the dump truck in there so you could see how big this thing is going to be.
> The truck is half the size of the Toy&Joys trucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Happy modeling.


Dutchy the simplest way to do it with out the jig is.
May want to try it first with some pine then if it work alright make another with something that will last longer.
Get a 2×6 pine? plain all side square, need to drill a 1/4" hole all the way through it, in the center of the 5 1/2" side[needs to be as parallel as possible].
Now you need to drill a 1/2" hole 1/3 of the way through in the same hole as the 1/4" hole.
Now put a 1/2" dowel in the 1/2" hole and need to find a way to clamp it so it doesn't move.
Now take a 1/4" drill bit and using the 1/4 hole as a guide drill out the 1/2" dowel.
I would drill half way throw then turn it around and drill from the other end.
The hole in the center isn't perfect but since the plans call for a 3/16" dowel the small imperfection in the center of the dowel works out OK.
Hope this helps.
I use the dowel crafter to hold the 1/2" dowel so it stays straight and have the 1/4 hole lined up to work..
Maybe now look at the picture again and you can see what I did.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Drilling rig #2*
> 
> Well got another fairly warm day in the shop 50 degrees F.
> 
> Cut out the derrick sides and made a glue up jig to hold them together while I added the cross braces.
> This is a little trickery because there are only three sides to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is one of the great things about these plans, just copy, print out the plans, glue them to some wood clamp it up and you have all the angles and places to drill marked out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now glue on the braces and every thing will stay in place till the glue hardens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's 9 pages to these plans and it gets quite confusing keeping it all straight so I used colored pencils to color match all the different views of the parts.
> Many parts are buried under other parts and very hard to see.
> The top of a part may be in one view the bottom may show on another page or in three places on one page so coloring them helps you connect the dotes so to speak and find them quicker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my super duper mitering saw for really small parts.
> I use this a lot so really need to build a better jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The derricks main cylinder is *10" long* so drilling it out was quite interesting.
> This is a 1/2" oak dowel drilled with a 1/4" bit.
> I love these Harbor Frieght drill bits they get er done their 25" long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just put the dump truck in there so you could see how big this thing is going to be.
> The truck is half the size of the Toy&Joys trucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Happy modeling.


Hope this helps.

After I finished with my 10" dowel and then made a 6" one, I tried making some smaller ones
3" and just drill throw one side and they would blow out the end.
But I had drilled ten holes by then and I think it was getting loss
and out of alignment.

When I did my first ones for my excavator I used a brad point drill bit 
and they didn't blow out the end on the 3" dowels.
Ps you don't need the Dowel Crafter thats just what I had and have liked using for many years.










Here's what the Dowel Crafter looks like, the holes can be move around for different heights, and it's great for doing dowels for face frames like everyone did back in the 1980s.
The doweled lumber would come out flush every time.
Was great for on the job work.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Drilling rig #2*
> 
> Well got another fairly warm day in the shop 50 degrees F.
> 
> Cut out the derrick sides and made a glue up jig to hold them together while I added the cross braces.
> This is a little trickery because there are only three sides to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is one of the great things about these plans, just copy, print out the plans, glue them to some wood clamp it up and you have all the angles and places to drill marked out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now glue on the braces and every thing will stay in place till the glue hardens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's 9 pages to these plans and it gets quite confusing keeping it all straight so I used colored pencils to color match all the different views of the parts.
> Many parts are buried under other parts and very hard to see.
> The top of a part may be in one view the bottom may show on another page or in three places on one page so coloring them helps you connect the dotes so to speak and find them quicker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my super duper mitering saw for really small parts.
> I use this a lot so really need to build a better jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The derricks main cylinder is *10" long* so drilling it out was quite interesting.
> This is a 1/2" oak dowel drilled with a 1/4" bit.
> I love these Harbor Frieght drill bits they get er done their 25" long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just put the dump truck in there so you could see how big this thing is going to be.
> The truck is half the size of the Toy&Joys trucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Happy modeling.


Am I having fun with this or what. LOL

Plain the board so all edges are parallel.
I would think the longer you make the guide on the 1/2 hole side the better.
Drill the 1/4" hole all the way throw the board 
Then drill the 1/2" hole half way throw or what feels right.
It has to line up just right.
Cut the board on the 1/2" drilled holes side and make notches so you can 
clamp the dowel so it can't move.
Then split the notch so it can close around the dowel.
Drill the dowel half way throw then flip and finish it.

After all this some one will show us a much better way. LOL


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Drilling rig #2*
> 
> Well got another fairly warm day in the shop 50 degrees F.
> 
> Cut out the derrick sides and made a glue up jig to hold them together while I added the cross braces.
> This is a little trickery because there are only three sides to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is one of the great things about these plans, just copy, print out the plans, glue them to some wood clamp it up and you have all the angles and places to drill marked out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now glue on the braces and every thing will stay in place till the glue hardens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's 9 pages to these plans and it gets quite confusing keeping it all straight so I used colored pencils to color match all the different views of the parts.
> Many parts are buried under other parts and very hard to see.
> The top of a part may be in one view the bottom may show on another page or in three places on one page so coloring them helps you connect the dotes so to speak and find them quicker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my super duper mitering saw for really small parts.
> I use this a lot so really need to build a better jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The derricks main cylinder is *10" long* so drilling it out was quite interesting.
> This is a 1/2" oak dowel drilled with a 1/4" bit.
> I love these Harbor Frieght drill bits they get er done their 25" long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just put the dump truck in there so you could see how big this thing is going to be.
> The truck is half the size of the Toy&Joys trucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Happy modeling.


Bruce thank you very much for your nice and complete exlpanation. TOP. I now fully understand what is going on. Thanks again.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Drilling rig #2*
> 
> Well got another fairly warm day in the shop 50 degrees F.
> 
> Cut out the derrick sides and made a glue up jig to hold them together while I added the cross braces.
> This is a little trickery because there are only three sides to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is one of the great things about these plans, just copy, print out the plans, glue them to some wood clamp it up and you have all the angles and places to drill marked out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now glue on the braces and every thing will stay in place till the glue hardens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's 9 pages to these plans and it gets quite confusing keeping it all straight so I used colored pencils to color match all the different views of the parts.
> Many parts are buried under other parts and very hard to see.
> The top of a part may be in one view the bottom may show on another page or in three places on one page so coloring them helps you connect the dotes so to speak and find them quicker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my super duper mitering saw for really small parts.
> I use this a lot so really need to build a better jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The derricks main cylinder is *10" long* so drilling it out was quite interesting.
> This is a 1/2" oak dowel drilled with a 1/4" bit.
> I love these Harbor Frieght drill bits they get er done their 25" long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> Just put the dump truck in there so you could see how big this thing is going to be.
> The truck is half the size of the Toy&Joys trucks.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Happy modeling.


Thank you Bruce, I'll have to keep an eye out for one….


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Drilling rig #2*
> 
> Well got another fairly warm day in the shop 50 degrees F.
> 
> Cut out the derrick sides and made a glue up jig to hold them together while I added the cross braces.
> This is a little trickery because there are only three sides to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is one of the great things about these plans, just copy, print out the plans, glue them to some wood clamp it up and you have all the angles and places to drill marked out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now glue on the braces and every thing will stay in place till the glue hardens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's 9 pages to these plans and it gets quite confusing keeping it all straight so I used colored pencils to color match all the different views of the parts.
> Many parts are buried under other parts and very hard to see.
> The top of a part may be in one view the bottom may show on another page or in three places on one page so coloring them helps you connect the dotes so to speak and find them quicker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my super duper mitering saw for really small parts.
> I use this a lot so really need to build a better jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The derricks main cylinder is *10" long* so drilling it out was quite interesting.
> This is a 1/2" oak dowel drilled with a 1/4" bit.
> I love these Harbor Frieght drill bits they get er done their 25" long.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just put the dump truck in there so you could see how big this thing is going to be.
> The truck is half the size of the Toy&Joys trucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Happy modeling.


Dutchy and htl, While I haven't got a bottomless wallet I'm like a woman in a shoe shop when it comes to tools.
I use a Collet chuck on my lathe to drill holes up to 8" long (never needed to go as far as 10") in smaller dowels. I specifically bought the ones from Beall Tools Company (though similar is available here in Australia), however, I cannot readily get the oversized collets that they supply. They're not cheap but I reckon worth it,
http://www.bealltool.com/products/turning/colletchuck.php
I still start off with a standard drill bit, followed by the closest drill bit to half the length of the work piece and then repeat from the other end. I do use an oversized bit to hog out the middle with the collet tightened around the middle to prevent/minimize potential blowout.
P.S. my lathe spindle has a 3/4" hollow shaft through it which accommodates longish lengths of small diameter dowel. I also make pens so I use a drill press pen blank drilling jig (good for up to 6" square/rectangular timber). press


----------



## htl

*Drill Rig #3*

Worked out in the shop a little, so there's some progress going on even though it may not look like much.
All the little parts I've been building are all starting to come together to make the larger whole.
Finally got up the nerve to glue the Derrick assembly to the base so now the derrick can be pined in to see how it all lines up.









Even got some of the hydraulics in place.



























Now I can glue up the travel support frame.










I've made up most of the hydraulics and their mounts but still needs some adjusting before I make them permanent.

Can't help it just had to put it all together and see how it will all fit.


















Still have all the really small doodads to make and put on but the main parts are all there, already thinking about building the truck. lol

Thanks for checking it out and happy wood working!!!


----------



## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Drill Rig #3*
> 
> Worked out in the shop a little, so there's some progress going on even though it may not look like much.
> All the little parts I've been building are all starting to come together to make the larger whole.
> Finally got up the nerve to glue the Derrick assembly to the base so now the derrick can be pined in to see how it all lines up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even got some of the hydraulics in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can glue up the travel support frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've made up most of the hydraulics and their mounts but still needs some adjusting before I make them permanent.
> 
> Can't help it just had to put it all together and see how it will all fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still have all the really small doodads to make and put on but the main parts are all there, already thinking about building the truck. lol
> 
> Thanks for checking it out and happy wood working!!!


Many hours into that one!

Will be very nice!


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Drill Rig #3*
> 
> Worked out in the shop a little, so there's some progress going on even though it may not look like much.
> All the little parts I've been building are all starting to come together to make the larger whole.
> Finally got up the nerve to glue the Derrick assembly to the base so now the derrick can be pined in to see how it all lines up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even got some of the hydraulics in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can glue up the travel support frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've made up most of the hydraulics and their mounts but still needs some adjusting before I make them permanent.
> 
> Can't help it just had to put it all together and see how it will all fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still have all the really small doodads to make and put on but the main parts are all there, already thinking about building the truck. lol
> 
> Thanks for checking it out and happy wood working!!!


*Impressiv.*


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## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Drill Rig #3*
> 
> Worked out in the shop a little, so there's some progress going on even though it may not look like much.
> All the little parts I've been building are all starting to come together to make the larger whole.
> Finally got up the nerve to glue the Derrick assembly to the base so now the derrick can be pined in to see how it all lines up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even got some of the hydraulics in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can glue up the travel support frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've made up most of the hydraulics and their mounts but still needs some adjusting before I make them permanent.
> 
> Can't help it just had to put it all together and see how it will all fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still have all the really small doodads to make and put on but the main parts are all there, already thinking about building the truck. lol
> 
> Thanks for checking it out and happy wood working!!!


Nice !


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Drill Rig #3*
> 
> Worked out in the shop a little, so there's some progress going on even though it may not look like much.
> All the little parts I've been building are all starting to come together to make the larger whole.
> Finally got up the nerve to glue the Derrick assembly to the base so now the derrick can be pined in to see how it all lines up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even got some of the hydraulics in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can glue up the travel support frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've made up most of the hydraulics and their mounts but still needs some adjusting before I make them permanent.
> 
> Can't help it just had to put it all together and see how it will all fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still have all the really small doodads to make and put on but the main parts are all there, already thinking about building the truck. lol
> 
> Thanks for checking it out and happy wood working!!!


Thanks all this has been a fun project but as always looking toward the next already.

Dutchy We'll need to drive in a convoy when I get my truck built. lol


----------



## htl

*Well Drilling Rig #4*

Well with all the fun going on around here I thought I would post a Photo Bucket story of my build so far.

The individual pictures I down load from photo bucket are really to big so their only showing 2/3 of the picture.
Hope they get things fixed at the moment all my pictures are gone on my blogs, but time will tell if they can fix it.

I hadn't really took any pictures of the different parts before so that what I'm doing here.









I'm having to go to Photo Bucket and shrink all the pictures to get them right, I take it Lumber Jocks did this for me before.









Here's the base with it's first coat of finish.


















This is the oil cooler.









Here's the Mud Pump what ever that is. LOL


















Cooling fan.









Pictures of the Jig Boom being made.



























Maybe all will be fixed shortly so that's all for now, but here are all the pictures I've taken of the build so far, many will not be shown on this site, enjoy.

These are from the newest pictures to the old.
http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/heretolearn7/Well%20Drilling%20Rig/story


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Well Drilling Rig #4*
> 
> Well with all the fun going on around here I thought I would post a Photo Bucket story of my build so far.
> 
> The individual pictures I down load from photo bucket are really to big so their only showing 2/3 of the picture.
> Hope they get things fixed at the moment all my pictures are gone on my blogs, but time will tell if they can fix it.
> 
> I hadn't really took any pictures of the different parts before so that what I'm doing here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm having to go to Photo Bucket and shrink all the pictures to get them right, I take it Lumber Jocks did this for me before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the base with it's first coat of finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the oil cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the Mud Pump what ever that is. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cooling fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pictures of the Jig Boom being made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe all will be fixed shortly so that's all for now, but here are all the pictures I've taken of the build so far, many will not be shown on this site, enjoy.
> 
> These are from the newest pictures to the old.
> http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/heretolearn7/Well%20Drilling%20Rig/story


Niet alle foto,s maar ik zit te genieten!!!!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Well Drilling Rig #4*
> 
> Well with all the fun going on around here I thought I would post a Photo Bucket story of my build so far.
> 
> The individual pictures I down load from photo bucket are really to big so their only showing 2/3 of the picture.
> Hope they get things fixed at the moment all my pictures are gone on my blogs, but time will tell if they can fix it.
> 
> I hadn't really took any pictures of the different parts before so that what I'm doing here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm having to go to Photo Bucket and shrink all the pictures to get them right, I take it Lumber Jocks did this for me before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the base with it's first coat of finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the oil cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the Mud Pump what ever that is. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cooling fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pictures of the Jig Boom being made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe all will be fixed shortly so that's all for now, but here are all the pictures I've taken of the build so far, many will not be shown on this site, enjoy.
> 
> These are from the newest pictures to the old.
> http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/heretolearn7/Well%20Drilling%20Rig/story


Dutchy


> ?
> Did you say "Not all photo's but I'm enjoying !!!! ""


?
Thanks Dutchy!


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Well Drilling Rig #4*
> 
> Well with all the fun going on around here I thought I would post a Photo Bucket story of my build so far.
> 
> The individual pictures I down load from photo bucket are really to big so their only showing 2/3 of the picture.
> Hope they get things fixed at the moment all my pictures are gone on my blogs, but time will tell if they can fix it.
> 
> I hadn't really took any pictures of the different parts before so that what I'm doing here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm having to go to Photo Bucket and shrink all the pictures to get them right, I take it Lumber Jocks did this for me before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the base with it's first coat of finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the oil cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the Mud Pump what ever that is. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cooling fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pictures of the Jig Boom being made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe all will be fixed shortly so that's all for now, but here are all the pictures I've taken of the build so far, many will not be shown on this site, enjoy.
> 
> These are from the newest pictures to the old.
> http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/heretolearn7/Well%20Drilling%20Rig/story


Looking great Bruce, it's coming together nicely…
reminds me of the time I worked for Sullair and we have the Drilltech drilling rigs….


----------



## Dee1

htl said:


> *Well Drilling Rig #4*
> 
> Well with all the fun going on around here I thought I would post a Photo Bucket story of my build so far.
> 
> The individual pictures I down load from photo bucket are really to big so their only showing 2/3 of the picture.
> Hope they get things fixed at the moment all my pictures are gone on my blogs, but time will tell if they can fix it.
> 
> I hadn't really took any pictures of the different parts before so that what I'm doing here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm having to go to Photo Bucket and shrink all the pictures to get them right, I take it Lumber Jocks did this for me before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the base with it's first coat of finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the oil cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the Mud Pump what ever that is. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cooling fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pictures of the Jig Boom being made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe all will be fixed shortly so that's all for now, but here are all the pictures I've taken of the build so far, many will not be shown on this site, enjoy.
> 
> These are from the newest pictures to the old.
> http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/heretolearn7/Well%20Drilling%20Rig/story


Looking great have been missing you guys blog pictures.
Dee


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Well Drilling Rig #4*
> 
> Well with all the fun going on around here I thought I would post a Photo Bucket story of my build so far.
> 
> The individual pictures I down load from photo bucket are really to big so their only showing 2/3 of the picture.
> Hope they get things fixed at the moment all my pictures are gone on my blogs, but time will tell if they can fix it.
> 
> I hadn't really took any pictures of the different parts before so that what I'm doing here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm having to go to Photo Bucket and shrink all the pictures to get them right, I take it Lumber Jocks did this for me before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the base with it's first coat of finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the oil cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the Mud Pump what ever that is. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cooling fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pictures of the Jig Boom being made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe all will be fixed shortly so that's all for now, but here are all the pictures I've taken of the build so far, many will not be shown on this site, enjoy.
> 
> These are from the newest pictures to the old.
> http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/heretolearn7/Well%20Drilling%20Rig/story


Dee1 .
This cold wet weather is really kicking my you know what with arthritis pain, can hardly move around but in the next couple a days it'll get better and off we go again.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Well Drilling Rig #4*
> 
> Well with all the fun going on around here I thought I would post a Photo Bucket story of my build so far.
> 
> The individual pictures I down load from photo bucket are really to big so their only showing 2/3 of the picture.
> Hope they get things fixed at the moment all my pictures are gone on my blogs, but time will tell if they can fix it.
> 
> I hadn't really took any pictures of the different parts before so that what I'm doing here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm having to go to Photo Bucket and shrink all the pictures to get them right, I take it Lumber Jocks did this for me before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the base with it's first coat of finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the oil cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the Mud Pump what ever that is. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cooling fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pictures of the Jig Boom being made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe all will be fixed shortly so that's all for now, but here are all the pictures I've taken of the build so far, many will not be shown on this site, enjoy.
> 
> These are from the newest pictures to the old.
> http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/heretolearn7/Well%20Drilling%20Rig/story





> Dee1 .
> This cold wet weather is really kicking my you know what with arthritis pain, can hardly move around but in the next couple a days it ll get better and off we go again.
> 
> - htl


As I've been told a number of times Bruce..
Better to wear out than rust out… Keep up the great work sir….


----------



## htl

*well drilling rig #5*

One more time I got her done. Yahoo!!!
Now on to building a truck.
It was a fun build with lots of odd shapes to make.
The cable work was quite interesting as they went all over the place.
They T&J had to add a whole sheet with tons of pictures just so you could figure out how they all went.













































Here's the project build page.
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/229114

Here's all the construction pictures some are shown only here.
http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/heretolearn7/Well%20Drilling%20Rig/story


----------



## chief101

htl said:


> *well drilling rig #5*
> 
> One more time I got her done. Yahoo!!!
> Now on to building a truck.
> It was a fun build with lots of odd shapes to make.
> The cable work was quite interesting as they went all over the place.
> They T&J had to add a whole sheet with tons of pictures just so you could figure out how they all went.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the project build page.
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/229114
> 
> Here's all the construction pictures some are shown only here.
> http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/heretolearn7/Well%20Drilling%20Rig/story


Awesome is all I can say.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *well drilling rig #5*
> 
> One more time I got her done. Yahoo!!!
> Now on to building a truck.
> It was a fun build with lots of odd shapes to make.
> The cable work was quite interesting as they went all over the place.
> They T&J had to add a whole sheet with tons of pictures just so you could figure out how they all went.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> Here's the project build page.
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/229114
> 
> Here's all the construction pictures some are shown only here.
> http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/heretolearn7/Well%20Drilling%20Rig/story


Thanks Dale


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *well drilling rig #5*
> 
> One more time I got her done. Yahoo!!!
> Now on to building a truck.
> It was a fun build with lots of odd shapes to make.
> The cable work was quite interesting as they went all over the place.
> They T&J had to add a whole sheet with tons of pictures just so you could figure out how they all went.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the project build page.
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/229114
> 
> Here's all the construction pictures some are shown only here.
> http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/heretolearn7/Well%20Drilling%20Rig/story


Dale when someone comments I always like t check out their posts to see what they've been up to,and your a builder I have commented on myself .
I just love rocking horse, don't ask me why?
They're fun to build and it's an action toy that can really be enjoyed by young and old alike, I built one full size for an adult which was great fun.


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## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *well drilling rig #5*
> 
> One more time I got her done. Yahoo!!!
> Now on to building a truck.
> It was a fun build with lots of odd shapes to make.
> The cable work was quite interesting as they went all over the place.
> They T&J had to add a whole sheet with tons of pictures just so you could figure out how they all went.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the project build page.
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/229114
> 
> Here's all the construction pictures some are shown only here.
> http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/heretolearn7/Well%20Drilling%20Rig/story


The rig came out awesome. Now adding the truck under it will make it even MORE AWESOMER ! 
.


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## htl

htl said:


> *well drilling rig #5*
> 
> One more time I got her done. Yahoo!!!
> Now on to building a truck.
> It was a fun build with lots of odd shapes to make.
> The cable work was quite interesting as they went all over the place.
> They T&J had to add a whole sheet with tons of pictures just so you could figure out how they all went.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the project build page.
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/229114
> 
> Here's all the construction pictures some are shown only here.
> http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/heretolearn7/Well%20Drilling%20Rig/story


Thanks Joeinga
Bruce in N Al. LOL
I've been looking at the plans for the Toys And Joys truck and that this is HUGE!!!!

Working with the well drilling rig I guess I got kinda used to it but the truck is even bigger.
Man I don't need a toy truck as big as a middle sized dog.
May just Have to cut it down by 1/3 that way the wheels will be 2" instead of 2 3/4".
I could sure use some thoughts plus or minus on this.


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## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *well drilling rig #5*
> 
> One more time I got her done. Yahoo!!!
> Now on to building a truck.
> It was a fun build with lots of odd shapes to make.
> The cable work was quite interesting as they went all over the place.
> They T&J had to add a whole sheet with tons of pictures just so you could figure out how they all went.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the project build page.
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/229114
> 
> Here's all the construction pictures some are shown only here.
> http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/heretolearn7/Well%20Drilling%20Rig/story


But if you downsize the truck, will the rig still fit on it? And if it will still fit, will it look "too big" for the truck?


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## htl

htl said:


> *well drilling rig #5*
> 
> One more time I got her done. Yahoo!!!
> Now on to building a truck.
> It was a fun build with lots of odd shapes to make.
> The cable work was quite interesting as they went all over the place.
> They T&J had to add a whole sheet with tons of pictures just so you could figure out how they all went.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the project build page.
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/229114
> 
> Here's all the construction pictures some are shown only here.
> http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/heretolearn7/Well%20Drilling%20Rig/story


Thanks Joe please fill out my questionnaire in the next post. LOL


----------



## htl

*Peter Built truck "Testing the waters"*

*The reason I'm posting this is for feed back, please would like your thoughts on this.*

Many of you have built the T&J projects do you wish now that it was smaller or is the size just right.
But also would like your feed back if you haven't built any this big.

Getting ready to build the Peter built Toys and joys truck but this thing is so big I mean it's like huge!!!
I don't know why the T&J models just don't look that big in the pictures.

I thought the well driller was big when I started it and I guess I got used to it but the thing fits on the truck so that means the trucks even bigger!!!.

I've been building toys for 40 or so years off and on and I guess I've got used to my toys being 1/2 the size of the t&j.
The well drill can stand on it's own so not worried about that. 
Here's some of my models and toys up next to the log truck from T&J full size plan picture.
This was just a quick group together and shot so dusty and not great lighting.

The dump truck has 2" wheels the T&J has 2 3/4" wheels.
I thought this truck was big when I built it a couple a months ago.









The car has 1 1/2" wheels if I remember right.
I liked this size but kind of small for much dealing.









Here you can see the steps up in size.
The cars small 
The dump truck is to me a good size the bull dozer is just a bit bigger from the Wood Store plans.
When I built the bull dozer I thought the t&J plans were this size.
Then we jump up 1/3 bigger to the T&J builds to me way bigger .

I'm just having a fight with myself over the size, it's just monster big, then when I get it built I'll be wanting to build the Belly Dump Trailer, 
*Just the trailer is 32" long…32" long.*

The truck will be around 17" together they'll be around 4' am I seeing this right* FOUR FOOT!!!*










*Would like some thought on this please.*


----------



## sras

htl said:


> *Peter Built truck "Testing the waters"*
> 
> *The reason I'm posting this is for feed back, please would like your thoughts on this.*
> 
> Many of you have built the T&J projects do you wish now that it was smaller or is the size just right.
> But also would like your feed back if you haven't built any this big.
> 
> Getting ready to build the Peter built Toys and joys truck but this thing is so big I mean it's like huge!!!
> I don't know why the T&J models just don't look that big in the pictures.
> 
> I thought the well driller was big when I started it and I guess I got used to it but the thing fits on the truck so that means the trucks even bigger!!!.
> 
> I've been building toys for 40 or so years off and on and I guess I've got used to my toys being 1/2 the size of the t&j.
> The well drill can stand on it's own so not worried about that.
> Here's some of my models and toys up next to the log truck from T&J full size plan picture.
> This was just a quick group together and shot so dusty and not great lighting.
> 
> The dump truck has 2" wheels the T&J has 2 3/4" wheels.
> I thought this truck was big when I built it a couple a months ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The car has 1 1/2" wheels if I remember right.
> I liked this size but kind of small for much dealing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the steps up in size.
> The cars small
> The dump truck is to me a good size the bull dozer is just a bit bigger from the Wood Store plans.
> When I built the bull dozer I thought the t&J plans were this size.
> Then we jump up 1/3 bigger to the T&J builds to me way bigger .
> 
> I'm just having a fight with myself over the size, it's just monster big, then when I get it built I'll be wanting to build the Belly Dump Trailer,
> *Just the trailer is 32" long…32" long.*
> 
> The truck will be around 17" together they'll be around 4' am I seeing this right* FOUR FOOT!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Would like some thought on this please.*


You can scale the plans down of course, but what determines the ideal size for you? Here are a few questions to consider…

Is there a display area that determines the ideal size?

Storage area?

Are they for little ones to play with or display only?

Are the toys for sale and it's a matter of market attractiveness?

Does the size require more material than you wish to use?

Or maybe it is just appearance. If that's the case what size looks right?

My father has built several toys and some of them got pretty long. He has a shelf along one wall and they look great. But the shelf is long enough so everything works out for him.


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Peter Built truck "Testing the waters"*
> 
> *The reason I'm posting this is for feed back, please would like your thoughts on this.*
> 
> Many of you have built the T&J projects do you wish now that it was smaller or is the size just right.
> But also would like your feed back if you haven't built any this big.
> 
> Getting ready to build the Peter built Toys and joys truck but this thing is so big I mean it's like huge!!!
> I don't know why the T&J models just don't look that big in the pictures.
> 
> I thought the well driller was big when I started it and I guess I got used to it but the thing fits on the truck so that means the trucks even bigger!!!.
> 
> I've been building toys for 40 or so years off and on and I guess I've got used to my toys being 1/2 the size of the t&j.
> The well drill can stand on it's own so not worried about that.
> Here's some of my models and toys up next to the log truck from T&J full size plan picture.
> This was just a quick group together and shot so dusty and not great lighting.
> 
> The dump truck has 2" wheels the T&J has 2 3/4" wheels.
> I thought this truck was big when I built it a couple a months ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The car has 1 1/2" wheels if I remember right.
> I liked this size but kind of small for much dealing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the steps up in size.
> The cars small
> The dump truck is to me a good size the bull dozer is just a bit bigger from the Wood Store plans.
> When I built the bull dozer I thought the t&J plans were this size.
> Then we jump up 1/3 bigger to the T&J builds to me way bigger .
> 
> I'm just having a fight with myself over the size, it's just monster big, then when I get it built I'll be wanting to build the Belly Dump Trailer,
> *Just the trailer is 32" long…32" long.*
> 
> The truck will be around 17" together they'll be around 4' am I seeing this right* FOUR FOOT!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Would like some thought on this please.*


Those of us who dont build the "toys" are living vicariously through you (and others like Dutchy) so I say GO FOR IT ! You build the coolest things ! So much cooler than a bookcase or installing a new door 

One day I MIGHT get the courage to tackle some of these things but not quite there yet !


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Peter Built truck "Testing the waters"*
> 
> *The reason I'm posting this is for feed back, please would like your thoughts on this.*
> 
> Many of you have built the T&J projects do you wish now that it was smaller or is the size just right.
> But also would like your feed back if you haven't built any this big.
> 
> Getting ready to build the Peter built Toys and joys truck but this thing is so big I mean it's like huge!!!
> I don't know why the T&J models just don't look that big in the pictures.
> 
> I thought the well driller was big when I started it and I guess I got used to it but the thing fits on the truck so that means the trucks even bigger!!!.
> 
> I've been building toys for 40 or so years off and on and I guess I've got used to my toys being 1/2 the size of the t&j.
> The well drill can stand on it's own so not worried about that.
> Here's some of my models and toys up next to the log truck from T&J full size plan picture.
> This was just a quick group together and shot so dusty and not great lighting.
> 
> The dump truck has 2" wheels the T&J has 2 3/4" wheels.
> I thought this truck was big when I built it a couple a months ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The car has 1 1/2" wheels if I remember right.
> I liked this size but kind of small for much dealing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the steps up in size.
> The cars small
> The dump truck is to me a good size the bull dozer is just a bit bigger from the Wood Store plans.
> When I built the bull dozer I thought the t&J plans were this size.
> Then we jump up 1/3 bigger to the T&J builds to me way bigger .
> 
> I'm just having a fight with myself over the size, it's just monster big, then when I get it built I'll be wanting to build the Belly Dump Trailer,
> *Just the trailer is 32" long…32" long.*
> 
> The truck will be around 17" together they'll be around 4' am I seeing this right* FOUR FOOT!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Would like some thought on this please.*


IT's just for me.
I just build for the build it self.
Once it's made I'm on to the next project.
I don't know why but the size just ercks me is that a word the spell checker says???
Thanks for asking the questions it gets me to thinking and looking behind the feelings I guess.
As you see in the pictures my TOYS! are out in the shop gathering saw dust.
After 40 some years of dusting my toys the BETTER HALF has seen enough of them. lol
So it's the build that keeps me coming back for more.
IT's funny but my other love is computers so half the fun is having things to put up and talk about.
I just sold a doll house I built took what a month to make and barely got the price of materials so no not selling them. lol

I've put up many a book case, houses, helped build dams, water treatment plants so next lets talk concrete form building. lol


----------



## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Peter Built truck "Testing the waters"*
> 
> *The reason I'm posting this is for feed back, please would like your thoughts on this.*
> 
> Many of you have built the T&J projects do you wish now that it was smaller or is the size just right.
> But also would like your feed back if you haven't built any this big.
> 
> Getting ready to build the Peter built Toys and joys truck but this thing is so big I mean it's like huge!!!
> I don't know why the T&J models just don't look that big in the pictures.
> 
> I thought the well driller was big when I started it and I guess I got used to it but the thing fits on the truck so that means the trucks even bigger!!!.
> 
> I've been building toys for 40 or so years off and on and I guess I've got used to my toys being 1/2 the size of the t&j.
> The well drill can stand on it's own so not worried about that.
> Here's some of my models and toys up next to the log truck from T&J full size plan picture.
> This was just a quick group together and shot so dusty and not great lighting.
> 
> The dump truck has 2" wheels the T&J has 2 3/4" wheels.
> I thought this truck was big when I built it a couple a months ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The car has 1 1/2" wheels if I remember right.
> I liked this size but kind of small for much dealing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the steps up in size.
> The cars small
> The dump truck is to me a good size the bull dozer is just a bit bigger from the Wood Store plans.
> When I built the bull dozer I thought the t&J plans were this size.
> Then we jump up 1/3 bigger to the T&J builds to me way bigger .
> 
> I'm just having a fight with myself over the size, it's just monster big, then when I get it built I'll be wanting to build the Belly Dump Trailer,
> *Just the trailer is 32" long…32" long.*
> 
> The truck will be around 17" together they'll be around 4' am I seeing this right* FOUR FOOT!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Would like some thought on this please.*


Building toys is a joy in itself!

I have built a few "just for me" many for nieces/nephews/ grandkids and great grandkids, and some just for other kids. I even sell some occasionally.

As I try to use free/scrap wood unless on a commissioned project I can keep most of my costs low.

It is a joy to know the rocking horse that I was coerced into building for our oldest grandson( I did not think I could succeed) is now being used by a great grandson.

The wooden toys you make are very well made and worthy of display too!

I try to make only "playable" toys, not models! I really do not have the patience or skills for them, but admire the fine work I see others do!

Keep on enjoying the build-eventually someone other than the woodaddicts may APPRECIATE your good work!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Peter Built truck "Testing the waters"*
> 
> *The reason I'm posting this is for feed back, please would like your thoughts on this.*
> 
> Many of you have built the T&J projects do you wish now that it was smaller or is the size just right.
> But also would like your feed back if you haven't built any this big.
> 
> Getting ready to build the Peter built Toys and joys truck but this thing is so big I mean it's like huge!!!
> I don't know why the T&J models just don't look that big in the pictures.
> 
> I thought the well driller was big when I started it and I guess I got used to it but the thing fits on the truck so that means the trucks even bigger!!!.
> 
> I've been building toys for 40 or so years off and on and I guess I've got used to my toys being 1/2 the size of the t&j.
> The well drill can stand on it's own so not worried about that.
> Here's some of my models and toys up next to the log truck from T&J full size plan picture.
> This was just a quick group together and shot so dusty and not great lighting.
> 
> The dump truck has 2" wheels the T&J has 2 3/4" wheels.
> I thought this truck was big when I built it a couple a months ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The car has 1 1/2" wheels if I remember right.
> I liked this size but kind of small for much dealing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the steps up in size.
> The cars small
> The dump truck is to me a good size the bull dozer is just a bit bigger from the Wood Store plans.
> When I built the bull dozer I thought the t&J plans were this size.
> Then we jump up 1/3 bigger to the T&J builds to me way bigger .
> 
> I'm just having a fight with myself over the size, it's just monster big, then when I get it built I'll be wanting to build the Belly Dump Trailer,
> *Just the trailer is 32" long…32" long.*
> 
> The truck will be around 17" together they'll be around 4' am I seeing this right* FOUR FOOT!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Would like some thought on this please.*


Ralbuck like you I mostly till now just made my toy's out of scrounged wood, but something clicked when I made a triplane for Steve's Plane-a-than awhile back.[I can't remember what it was called]
As you can see in the pictures above my builds has just kept getting more involved and now I can hardly beleave what I've been building the lost couple a months.
It really started 2 winters ago building doll houses, I got a kit from Hobby Lobby [just to have some thing to do] the cheapest they had $16 with no tools. I bought a jewelers saw and mini miter box and went to building doll houses kits. Then last winter I got a dewalt contractors saw and built a scratch built doll house thats in my projects file.
Then came that air plane and it's all down hill from there.

Now don't let it sound like these are my first toys I've been wood working for near 50 years in all kinds of projects.
I had retired and given all my old wore out tools away and then we moved where I now have a two car garage to play in. 
Ain't it sad I gave all my broke tools away so now new ones follow me home every so often.
*Sad but true*, sad but true.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Peter Built truck "Testing the waters"*
> 
> *The reason I'm posting this is for feed back, please would like your thoughts on this.*
> 
> Many of you have built the T&J projects do you wish now that it was smaller or is the size just right.
> But also would like your feed back if you haven't built any this big.
> 
> Getting ready to build the Peter built Toys and joys truck but this thing is so big I mean it's like huge!!!
> I don't know why the T&J models just don't look that big in the pictures.
> 
> I thought the well driller was big when I started it and I guess I got used to it but the thing fits on the truck so that means the trucks even bigger!!!.
> 
> I've been building toys for 40 or so years off and on and I guess I've got used to my toys being 1/2 the size of the t&j.
> The well drill can stand on it's own so not worried about that.
> Here's some of my models and toys up next to the log truck from T&J full size plan picture.
> This was just a quick group together and shot so dusty and not great lighting.
> 
> The dump truck has 2" wheels the T&J has 2 3/4" wheels.
> I thought this truck was big when I built it a couple a months ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The car has 1 1/2" wheels if I remember right.
> I liked this size but kind of small for much dealing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the steps up in size.
> The cars small
> The dump truck is to me a good size the bull dozer is just a bit bigger from the Wood Store plans.
> When I built the bull dozer I thought the t&J plans were this size.
> Then we jump up 1/3 bigger to the T&J builds to me way bigger .
> 
> I'm just having a fight with myself over the size, it's just monster big, then when I get it built I'll be wanting to build the Belly Dump Trailer,
> *Just the trailer is 32" long…32" long.*
> 
> The truck will be around 17" together they'll be around 4' am I seeing this right* FOUR FOOT!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Would like some thought on this please.*


*Bruce* speaking for myself I like the T&J scale. Maybe it is bigger than from other plans. I never have bilt others so I don't have comparative material.

For so far I know (I'm not 100% sure but mean to remember I have read this somewhere) the belly dump trailer has the same scale as the excavator.

I agree with *Steve* that you can scale the drawing. Maybe you have a scanner and able to scale. The logging truck isn't the most difficult but making him smaller will making the building process more difficult. T&J models has a lot of detail and making it smaller will at a given moment become technically impossible. It is up to you where the limits are But as said already the logging truck isn't the most difficult, so in this case I think you can scale it.

Consider also that scaling plans with fractional measerment (T&J is fractional) is much more difficult than metric plans and when your well dril is standing on the "big" T&J truck you need less space than a smaller stand alone truck and a stand alone rig.

I'm curious about the well drill sizes.

What ever it will be good luck with your choice, and I look forward to the construction process.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Peter Built truck "Testing the waters"*
> 
> *The reason I'm posting this is for feed back, please would like your thoughts on this.*
> 
> Many of you have built the T&J projects do you wish now that it was smaller or is the size just right.
> But also would like your feed back if you haven't built any this big.
> 
> Getting ready to build the Peter built Toys and joys truck but this thing is so big I mean it's like huge!!!
> I don't know why the T&J models just don't look that big in the pictures.
> 
> I thought the well driller was big when I started it and I guess I got used to it but the thing fits on the truck so that means the trucks even bigger!!!.
> 
> I've been building toys for 40 or so years off and on and I guess I've got used to my toys being 1/2 the size of the t&j.
> The well drill can stand on it's own so not worried about that.
> Here's some of my models and toys up next to the log truck from T&J full size plan picture.
> This was just a quick group together and shot so dusty and not great lighting.
> 
> The dump truck has 2" wheels the T&J has 2 3/4" wheels.
> I thought this truck was big when I built it a couple a months ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The car has 1 1/2" wheels if I remember right.
> I liked this size but kind of small for much dealing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the steps up in size.
> The cars small
> The dump truck is to me a good size the bull dozer is just a bit bigger from the Wood Store plans.
> When I built the bull dozer I thought the t&J plans were this size.
> Then we jump up 1/3 bigger to the T&J builds to me way bigger .
> 
> I'm just having a fight with myself over the size, it's just monster big, then when I get it built I'll be wanting to build the Belly Dump Trailer,
> *Just the trailer is 32" long…32" long.*
> 
> The truck will be around 17" together they'll be around 4' am I seeing this right* FOUR FOOT!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Would like some thought on this please.*


SRAS Thanks for the many questions they got me thinking and not just stuck in a rut of to big.

Dutchy I have a scanner so that's not a problem, I can adjust to just about any need.
Almost all my other builds have pretty well been just from a picture.
That blue doll house I made was just from 3 pictures of a house in Japan.

It's just me, I'm used to a different size once I get started I'll get over it.
Dutchy I'm not really building the logging truck,it's just pictures I have to go by for scale and measurements.
You've done such a great job on your how to's I see no problem following and using the best of bother your truck builds to make mine.
There's some other great trucks on here to get ideas from too.
I'm also thinking of building a sleeper truck if that's what you call them, or is it over the cab something or other but that would really tax my shaping ability.
I'll probable leave the back long to start with so I can put the well driller on it for pictures then switch it over to pull the belly trailer.

That's the plan but we'll see what comes of it.
May make a great fire half way through.LOL
I don't know might be willing to trade some one plans if I had some thing they liked.

I don't know why but this truck looks interesting to me.
Wouldn't this be a cool truck to pull a flat bed trailer for the excavator.
The truck and excavator look a lot alike or would when I was done with it.
Still in the planing mod right now, that's why I started this post just haven't set on which way to go.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Peter Built truck "Testing the waters"*
> 
> *The reason I'm posting this is for feed back, please would like your thoughts on this.*
> 
> Many of you have built the T&J projects do you wish now that it was smaller or is the size just right.
> But also would like your feed back if you haven't built any this big.
> 
> Getting ready to build the Peter built Toys and joys truck but this thing is so big I mean it's like huge!!!
> I don't know why the T&J models just don't look that big in the pictures.
> 
> I thought the well driller was big when I started it and I guess I got used to it but the thing fits on the truck so that means the trucks even bigger!!!.
> 
> I've been building toys for 40 or so years off and on and I guess I've got used to my toys being 1/2 the size of the t&j.
> The well drill can stand on it's own so not worried about that.
> Here's some of my models and toys up next to the log truck from T&J full size plan picture.
> This was just a quick group together and shot so dusty and not great lighting.
> 
> The dump truck has 2" wheels the T&J has 2 3/4" wheels.
> I thought this truck was big when I built it a couple a months ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The car has 1 1/2" wheels if I remember right.
> I liked this size but kind of small for much dealing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the steps up in size.
> The cars small
> The dump truck is to me a good size the bull dozer is just a bit bigger from the Wood Store plans.
> When I built the bull dozer I thought the t&J plans were this size.
> Then we jump up 1/3 bigger to the T&J builds to me way bigger .
> 
> I'm just having a fight with myself over the size, it's just monster big, then when I get it built I'll be wanting to build the Belly Dump Trailer,
> *Just the trailer is 32" long…32" long.*
> 
> The truck will be around 17" together they'll be around 4' am I seeing this right* FOUR FOOT!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Would like some thought on this please.*


I,m curious how it is going on. We will see.

When you are going to build the MACK (from picture above) I would like to join you building a semilair truck. This Mack looks like the european types. A couple of months ago I have been to a truck trade show to do some inspiration to build such a truck. But unlike you I never have build my own model, and till now I still dare not to build a truck. After I have finished the dump truck and some other activities I will start building a Landrover. I all ready started with a ACAD drawing. This Landrover is square and "easy" to draw. 
This is what I have in mind:


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Peter Built truck "Testing the waters"*
> 
> *The reason I'm posting this is for feed back, please would like your thoughts on this.*
> 
> Many of you have built the T&J projects do you wish now that it was smaller or is the size just right.
> But also would like your feed back if you haven't built any this big.
> 
> Getting ready to build the Peter built Toys and joys truck but this thing is so big I mean it's like huge!!!
> I don't know why the T&J models just don't look that big in the pictures.
> 
> I thought the well driller was big when I started it and I guess I got used to it but the thing fits on the truck so that means the trucks even bigger!!!.
> 
> I've been building toys for 40 or so years off and on and I guess I've got used to my toys being 1/2 the size of the t&j.
> The well drill can stand on it's own so not worried about that.
> Here's some of my models and toys up next to the log truck from T&J full size plan picture.
> This was just a quick group together and shot so dusty and not great lighting.
> 
> The dump truck has 2" wheels the T&J has 2 3/4" wheels.
> I thought this truck was big when I built it a couple a months ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The car has 1 1/2" wheels if I remember right.
> I liked this size but kind of small for much dealing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the steps up in size.
> The cars small
> The dump truck is to me a good size the bull dozer is just a bit bigger from the Wood Store plans.
> When I built the bull dozer I thought the t&J plans were this size.
> Then we jump up 1/3 bigger to the T&J builds to me way bigger .
> 
> I'm just having a fight with myself over the size, it's just monster big, then when I get it built I'll be wanting to build the Belly Dump Trailer,
> *Just the trailer is 32" long…32" long.*
> 
> The truck will be around 17" together they'll be around 4' am I seeing this right* FOUR FOOT!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Would like some thought on this please.*


When you start building a truck isn't is a challenge to build the MACK but also a dutch DAF. The chassis of both are the same. The lights of the DAF are difficult to make but maybe you have a good solution. DAF is a Paccar compagnie with a factory in the netherlands. The motors are from Paccar. DAF is one of the biggest truck companies in europe.
So please think about it.

BTW The dumpt truck I build is a Freightliner. And Freightlander is a brand of Daimler (Mercedes)


----------



## Dee1

htl said:


> *Peter Built truck "Testing the waters"*
> 
> *The reason I'm posting this is for feed back, please would like your thoughts on this.*
> 
> Many of you have built the T&J projects do you wish now that it was smaller or is the size just right.
> But also would like your feed back if you haven't built any this big.
> 
> Getting ready to build the Peter built Toys and joys truck but this thing is so big I mean it's like huge!!!
> I don't know why the T&J models just don't look that big in the pictures.
> 
> I thought the well driller was big when I started it and I guess I got used to it but the thing fits on the truck so that means the trucks even bigger!!!.
> 
> I've been building toys for 40 or so years off and on and I guess I've got used to my toys being 1/2 the size of the t&j.
> The well drill can stand on it's own so not worried about that.
> Here's some of my models and toys up next to the log truck from T&J full size plan picture.
> This was just a quick group together and shot so dusty and not great lighting.
> 
> The dump truck has 2" wheels the T&J has 2 3/4" wheels.
> I thought this truck was big when I built it a couple a months ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The car has 1 1/2" wheels if I remember right.
> I liked this size but kind of small for much dealing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the steps up in size.
> The cars small
> The dump truck is to me a good size the bull dozer is just a bit bigger from the Wood Store plans.
> When I built the bull dozer I thought the t&J plans were this size.
> Then we jump up 1/3 bigger to the T&J builds to me way bigger .
> 
> I'm just having a fight with myself over the size, it's just monster big, then when I get it built I'll be wanting to build the Belly Dump Trailer,
> *Just the trailer is 32" long…32" long.*
> 
> The truck will be around 17" together they'll be around 4' am I seeing this right* FOUR FOOT!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Would like some thought on this please.*


I have built a few of the toys and joys models, and after building the High Sprocket bulldozer I thought hey I will build the scraper to go with it. well surprise surprise the scraper is a much smaller scale, although it is a nice little scraper it is too small to be correct. But it sits on a shelf away from the dozer and looks fine.
I am not sure if I would be able to scale up or down ?
Right now I am working on another old John Deere without plans and it is kicking my behind! not sure what it will look like when done so far it is just one step above kindling!
Dee


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Peter Built truck "Testing the waters"*
> 
> *The reason I'm posting this is for feed back, please would like your thoughts on this.*
> 
> Many of you have built the T&J projects do you wish now that it was smaller or is the size just right.
> But also would like your feed back if you haven't built any this big.
> 
> Getting ready to build the Peter built Toys and joys truck but this thing is so big I mean it's like huge!!!
> I don't know why the T&J models just don't look that big in the pictures.
> 
> I thought the well driller was big when I started it and I guess I got used to it but the thing fits on the truck so that means the trucks even bigger!!!.
> 
> I've been building toys for 40 or so years off and on and I guess I've got used to my toys being 1/2 the size of the t&j.
> The well drill can stand on it's own so not worried about that.
> Here's some of my models and toys up next to the log truck from T&J full size plan picture.
> This was just a quick group together and shot so dusty and not great lighting.
> 
> The dump truck has 2" wheels the T&J has 2 3/4" wheels.
> I thought this truck was big when I built it a couple a months ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The car has 1 1/2" wheels if I remember right.
> I liked this size but kind of small for much dealing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the steps up in size.
> The cars small
> The dump truck is to me a good size the bull dozer is just a bit bigger from the Wood Store plans.
> When I built the bull dozer I thought the t&J plans were this size.
> Then we jump up 1/3 bigger to the T&J builds to me way bigger .
> 
> I'm just having a fight with myself over the size, it's just monster big, then when I get it built I'll be wanting to build the Belly Dump Trailer,
> *Just the trailer is 32" long…32" long.*
> 
> The truck will be around 17" together they'll be around 4' am I seeing this right* FOUR FOOT!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Would like some thought on this please.*


*Dee *If it turns in to kindling do a video of how to burn up a project that's kicked your butt , I'll bet it would be a real hoot.
You know I'm just kidding but wouldn't that be a funny.
You would think T&J would give us some idea how the different vehicles match up in size.
I love the old tractors they look like a really fun build specially the back tires..

*Dutchy* go over to the T&J forum there's a guy that just posted some really cool parts.
His wheels would look out standing on the rover and my truck.
And it would be easy to use his under neath just what you need.
You've built two trucks so you know whats needed, just need to shorten the frame a little.

I'm thinking of this truck above in a four wheel or six wheel drive to get the drilling rig where it needs to go.
Have a bunch of mufflers and air filters behind the truck cab with the safty screen from the logging truck behind that then the drilling rig.

And how about using his springs but glue it up using two woods like you did on your truck.
His truck doesn't even have a frame under neath.
There's so many way to go about this.

Check out that post and you'll see what I'm talking about.

Here's where I got the picture of the truck, there's front side pictures to be blown up for plans.
http://www.macktrucks.com/trucks/terrapro-series/

What I've done before is print out the picture measure the wheels then print it out inlarging it till the wheels are the size you want, then print all the side front back what ever at that size and you,ve got your plans or at
least you'll know how wide how tall and so on to make it and it's all in scale.

*Sorry but you guys are getting me fired up*
I just came back from the lumber mill with some walnut cherry and I still have some sassafras left so all set. yahoo!!!

Way cool!!!!!

Dutchy can you get Sketchup where you are?
I've got just what you need for inspiration.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Peter Built truck "Testing the waters"*
> 
> *The reason I'm posting this is for feed back, please would like your thoughts on this.*
> 
> Many of you have built the T&J projects do you wish now that it was smaller or is the size just right.
> But also would like your feed back if you haven't built any this big.
> 
> Getting ready to build the Peter built Toys and joys truck but this thing is so big I mean it's like huge!!!
> I don't know why the T&J models just don't look that big in the pictures.
> 
> I thought the well driller was big when I started it and I guess I got used to it but the thing fits on the truck so that means the trucks even bigger!!!.
> 
> I've been building toys for 40 or so years off and on and I guess I've got used to my toys being 1/2 the size of the t&j.
> The well drill can stand on it's own so not worried about that.
> Here's some of my models and toys up next to the log truck from T&J full size plan picture.
> This was just a quick group together and shot so dusty and not great lighting.
> 
> The dump truck has 2" wheels the T&J has 2 3/4" wheels.
> I thought this truck was big when I built it a couple a months ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The car has 1 1/2" wheels if I remember right.
> I liked this size but kind of small for much dealing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the steps up in size.
> The cars small
> The dump truck is to me a good size the bull dozer is just a bit bigger from the Wood Store plans.
> When I built the bull dozer I thought the t&J plans were this size.
> Then we jump up 1/3 bigger to the T&J builds to me way bigger .
> 
> I'm just having a fight with myself over the size, it's just monster big, then when I get it built I'll be wanting to build the Belly Dump Trailer,
> *Just the trailer is 32" long…32" long.*
> 
> The truck will be around 17" together they'll be around 4' am I seeing this right* FOUR FOOT!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Would like some thought on this please.*


Dutch one cool thing about building this truck.
I don't think I've seen another one like it in toy form I mean.
That's why I'm interested in it some thing diffrent.

I just noticed something interesting on the Mack truck the rear springs are just like you did it on your newest truck. How cool is that.

I've seen the T&J plans for the Hummer and really every thing is pretty much flat like you say.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Peter Built truck "Testing the waters"*
> 
> *The reason I'm posting this is for feed back, please would like your thoughts on this.*
> 
> Many of you have built the T&J projects do you wish now that it was smaller or is the size just right.
> But also would like your feed back if you haven't built any this big.
> 
> Getting ready to build the Peter built Toys and joys truck but this thing is so big I mean it's like huge!!!
> I don't know why the T&J models just don't look that big in the pictures.
> 
> I thought the well driller was big when I started it and I guess I got used to it but the thing fits on the truck so that means the trucks even bigger!!!.
> 
> I've been building toys for 40 or so years off and on and I guess I've got used to my toys being 1/2 the size of the t&j.
> The well drill can stand on it's own so not worried about that.
> Here's some of my models and toys up next to the log truck from T&J full size plan picture.
> This was just a quick group together and shot so dusty and not great lighting.
> 
> The dump truck has 2" wheels the T&J has 2 3/4" wheels.
> I thought this truck was big when I built it a couple a months ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The car has 1 1/2" wheels if I remember right.
> I liked this size but kind of small for much dealing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the steps up in size.
> The cars small
> The dump truck is to me a good size the bull dozer is just a bit bigger from the Wood Store plans.
> When I built the bull dozer I thought the t&J plans were this size.
> Then we jump up 1/3 bigger to the T&J builds to me way bigger .
> 
> I'm just having a fight with myself over the size, it's just monster big, then when I get it built I'll be wanting to build the Belly Dump Trailer,
> *Just the trailer is 32" long…32" long.*
> 
> The truck will be around 17" together they'll be around 4' am I seeing this right* FOUR FOOT!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Would like some thought on this please.*


Bruce I have sketchup 8.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Peter Built truck "Testing the waters"*
> 
> *The reason I'm posting this is for feed back, please would like your thoughts on this.*
> 
> Many of you have built the T&J projects do you wish now that it was smaller or is the size just right.
> But also would like your feed back if you haven't built any this big.
> 
> Getting ready to build the Peter built Toys and joys truck but this thing is so big I mean it's like huge!!!
> I don't know why the T&J models just don't look that big in the pictures.
> 
> I thought the well driller was big when I started it and I guess I got used to it but the thing fits on the truck so that means the trucks even bigger!!!.
> 
> I've been building toys for 40 or so years off and on and I guess I've got used to my toys being 1/2 the size of the t&j.
> The well drill can stand on it's own so not worried about that.
> Here's some of my models and toys up next to the log truck from T&J full size plan picture.
> This was just a quick group together and shot so dusty and not great lighting.
> 
> The dump truck has 2" wheels the T&J has 2 3/4" wheels.
> I thought this truck was big when I built it a couple a months ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The car has 1 1/2" wheels if I remember right.
> I liked this size but kind of small for much dealing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the steps up in size.
> The cars small
> The dump truck is to me a good size the bull dozer is just a bit bigger from the Wood Store plans.
> When I built the bull dozer I thought the t&J plans were this size.
> Then we jump up 1/3 bigger to the T&J builds to me way bigger .
> 
> I'm just having a fight with myself over the size, it's just monster big, then when I get it built I'll be wanting to build the Belly Dump Trailer,
> *Just the trailer is 32" long…32" long.*
> 
> The truck will be around 17" together they'll be around 4' am I seeing this right* FOUR FOOT!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Would like some thought on this please.*


Check this out.
It's what you need to get you land rover started.
Email him and you may be able to check the hummer out.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Peter Built truck "Testing the waters"*
> 
> *The reason I'm posting this is for feed back, please would like your thoughts on this.*
> 
> Many of you have built the T&J projects do you wish now that it was smaller or is the size just right.
> But also would like your feed back if you haven't built any this big.
> 
> Getting ready to build the Peter built Toys and joys truck but this thing is so big I mean it's like huge!!!
> I don't know why the T&J models just don't look that big in the pictures.
> 
> I thought the well driller was big when I started it and I guess I got used to it but the thing fits on the truck so that means the trucks even bigger!!!.
> 
> I've been building toys for 40 or so years off and on and I guess I've got used to my toys being 1/2 the size of the t&j.
> The well drill can stand on it's own so not worried about that.
> Here's some of my models and toys up next to the log truck from T&J full size plan picture.
> This was just a quick group together and shot so dusty and not great lighting.
> 
> The dump truck has 2" wheels the T&J has 2 3/4" wheels.
> I thought this truck was big when I built it a couple a months ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The car has 1 1/2" wheels if I remember right.
> I liked this size but kind of small for much dealing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the steps up in size.
> The cars small
> The dump truck is to me a good size the bull dozer is just a bit bigger from the Wood Store plans.
> When I built the bull dozer I thought the t&J plans were this size.
> Then we jump up 1/3 bigger to the T&J builds to me way bigger .
> 
> I'm just having a fight with myself over the size, it's just monster big, then when I get it built I'll be wanting to build the Belly Dump Trailer,
> *Just the trailer is 32" long…32" long.*
> 
> The truck will be around 17" together they'll be around 4' am I seeing this right* FOUR FOOT!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Would like some thought on this please.*





> *Dutchy* go over to the T&J forum there s a guy that just posted some really cool parts.
> 
> - htl


Can you give me a URL. I can,t find what you mean.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Peter Built truck "Testing the waters"*
> 
> *The reason I'm posting this is for feed back, please would like your thoughts on this.*
> 
> Many of you have built the T&J projects do you wish now that it was smaller or is the size just right.
> But also would like your feed back if you haven't built any this big.
> 
> Getting ready to build the Peter built Toys and joys truck but this thing is so big I mean it's like huge!!!
> I don't know why the T&J models just don't look that big in the pictures.
> 
> I thought the well driller was big when I started it and I guess I got used to it but the thing fits on the truck so that means the trucks even bigger!!!.
> 
> I've been building toys for 40 or so years off and on and I guess I've got used to my toys being 1/2 the size of the t&j.
> The well drill can stand on it's own so not worried about that.
> Here's some of my models and toys up next to the log truck from T&J full size plan picture.
> This was just a quick group together and shot so dusty and not great lighting.
> 
> The dump truck has 2" wheels the T&J has 2 3/4" wheels.
> I thought this truck was big when I built it a couple a months ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The car has 1 1/2" wheels if I remember right.
> I liked this size but kind of small for much dealing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the steps up in size.
> The cars small
> The dump truck is to me a good size the bull dozer is just a bit bigger from the Wood Store plans.
> When I built the bull dozer I thought the t&J plans were this size.
> Then we jump up 1/3 bigger to the T&J builds to me way bigger .
> 
> I'm just having a fight with myself over the size, it's just monster big, then when I get it built I'll be wanting to build the Belly Dump Trailer,
> *Just the trailer is 32" long…32" long.*
> 
> The truck will be around 17" together they'll be around 4' am I seeing this right* FOUR FOOT!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Would like some thought on this please.*


No problem.
http://toysandjoys.com/bb/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=3576&start=10

And here is what he's building.

Can you see you land rover coming out of this. lol
http://s84.photobucket.com/user/Limeplace67/media/IMG_3221_zpsfz43dpbz.jpg.html?sort=3&o=13

And check your email. LOL


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Peter Built truck "Testing the waters"*
> 
> *The reason I'm posting this is for feed back, please would like your thoughts on this.*
> 
> Many of you have built the T&J projects do you wish now that it was smaller or is the size just right.
> But also would like your feed back if you haven't built any this big.
> 
> Getting ready to build the Peter built Toys and joys truck but this thing is so big I mean it's like huge!!!
> I don't know why the T&J models just don't look that big in the pictures.
> 
> I thought the well driller was big when I started it and I guess I got used to it but the thing fits on the truck so that means the trucks even bigger!!!.
> 
> I've been building toys for 40 or so years off and on and I guess I've got used to my toys being 1/2 the size of the t&j.
> The well drill can stand on it's own so not worried about that.
> Here's some of my models and toys up next to the log truck from T&J full size plan picture.
> This was just a quick group together and shot so dusty and not great lighting.
> 
> The dump truck has 2" wheels the T&J has 2 3/4" wheels.
> I thought this truck was big when I built it a couple a months ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The car has 1 1/2" wheels if I remember right.
> I liked this size but kind of small for much dealing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the steps up in size.
> The cars small
> The dump truck is to me a good size the bull dozer is just a bit bigger from the Wood Store plans.
> When I built the bull dozer I thought the t&J plans were this size.
> Then we jump up 1/3 bigger to the T&J builds to me way bigger .
> 
> I'm just having a fight with myself over the size, it's just monster big, then when I get it built I'll be wanting to build the Belly Dump Trailer,
> *Just the trailer is 32" long…32" long.*
> 
> The truck will be around 17" together they'll be around 4' am I seeing this right* FOUR FOOT!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Would like some thought on this please.*





> No problem.
> http://toysandjoys.com/bb/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=3576&start=10
> 
> - htl


Thanks. I had seen this but i had no idea what it was going to be.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Peter Built truck "Testing the waters"*
> 
> *The reason I'm posting this is for feed back, please would like your thoughts on this.*
> 
> Many of you have built the T&J projects do you wish now that it was smaller or is the size just right.
> But also would like your feed back if you haven't built any this big.
> 
> Getting ready to build the Peter built Toys and joys truck but this thing is so big I mean it's like huge!!!
> I don't know why the T&J models just don't look that big in the pictures.
> 
> I thought the well driller was big when I started it and I guess I got used to it but the thing fits on the truck so that means the trucks even bigger!!!.
> 
> I've been building toys for 40 or so years off and on and I guess I've got used to my toys being 1/2 the size of the t&j.
> The well drill can stand on it's own so not worried about that.
> Here's some of my models and toys up next to the log truck from T&J full size plan picture.
> This was just a quick group together and shot so dusty and not great lighting.
> 
> The dump truck has 2" wheels the T&J has 2 3/4" wheels.
> I thought this truck was big when I built it a couple a months ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The car has 1 1/2" wheels if I remember right.
> I liked this size but kind of small for much dealing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the steps up in size.
> The cars small
> The dump truck is to me a good size the bull dozer is just a bit bigger from the Wood Store plans.
> When I built the bull dozer I thought the t&J plans were this size.
> Then we jump up 1/3 bigger to the T&J builds to me way bigger .
> 
> I'm just having a fight with myself over the size, it's just monster big, then when I get it built I'll be wanting to build the Belly Dump Trailer,
> *Just the trailer is 32" long…32" long.*
> 
> The truck will be around 17" together they'll be around 4' am I seeing this right* FOUR FOOT!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Would like some thought on this please.*





> Can you see you land rover coming out of this. lol
> http://s84.photobucket.com/user/Limeplace67/media/IMG_3221_zpsfz43dpbz.jpg.html?sort=3&o=13
> 
> - htl


Thanks again. Isn't this Peter Jones.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Peter Built truck "Testing the waters"*
> 
> *The reason I'm posting this is for feed back, please would like your thoughts on this.*
> 
> Many of you have built the T&J projects do you wish now that it was smaller or is the size just right.
> But also would like your feed back if you haven't built any this big.
> 
> Getting ready to build the Peter built Toys and joys truck but this thing is so big I mean it's like huge!!!
> I don't know why the T&J models just don't look that big in the pictures.
> 
> I thought the well driller was big when I started it and I guess I got used to it but the thing fits on the truck so that means the trucks even bigger!!!.
> 
> I've been building toys for 40 or so years off and on and I guess I've got used to my toys being 1/2 the size of the t&j.
> The well drill can stand on it's own so not worried about that.
> Here's some of my models and toys up next to the log truck from T&J full size plan picture.
> This was just a quick group together and shot so dusty and not great lighting.
> 
> The dump truck has 2" wheels the T&J has 2 3/4" wheels.
> I thought this truck was big when I built it a couple a months ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The car has 1 1/2" wheels if I remember right.
> I liked this size but kind of small for much dealing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the steps up in size.
> The cars small
> The dump truck is to me a good size the bull dozer is just a bit bigger from the Wood Store plans.
> When I built the bull dozer I thought the t&J plans were this size.
> Then we jump up 1/3 bigger to the T&J builds to me way bigger .
> 
> I'm just having a fight with myself over the size, it's just monster big, then when I get it built I'll be wanting to build the Belly Dump Trailer,
> *Just the trailer is 32" long…32" long.*
> 
> The truck will be around 17" together they'll be around 4' am I seeing this right* FOUR FOOT!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Would like some thought on this please.*


Sorry I couldn't tell you .
Did you check out some of his other builds by clicking back and forth.

Did you get my email?


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Peter Built truck "Testing the waters"*
> 
> *The reason I'm posting this is for feed back, please would like your thoughts on this.*
> 
> Many of you have built the T&J projects do you wish now that it was smaller or is the size just right.
> But also would like your feed back if you haven't built any this big.
> 
> Getting ready to build the Peter built Toys and joys truck but this thing is so big I mean it's like huge!!!
> I don't know why the T&J models just don't look that big in the pictures.
> 
> I thought the well driller was big when I started it and I guess I got used to it but the thing fits on the truck so that means the trucks even bigger!!!.
> 
> I've been building toys for 40 or so years off and on and I guess I've got used to my toys being 1/2 the size of the t&j.
> The well drill can stand on it's own so not worried about that.
> Here's some of my models and toys up next to the log truck from T&J full size plan picture.
> This was just a quick group together and shot so dusty and not great lighting.
> 
> The dump truck has 2" wheels the T&J has 2 3/4" wheels.
> I thought this truck was big when I built it a couple a months ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The car has 1 1/2" wheels if I remember right.
> I liked this size but kind of small for much dealing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the steps up in size.
> The cars small
> The dump truck is to me a good size the bull dozer is just a bit bigger from the Wood Store plans.
> When I built the bull dozer I thought the t&J plans were this size.
> Then we jump up 1/3 bigger to the T&J builds to me way bigger .
> 
> I'm just having a fight with myself over the size, it's just monster big, then when I get it built I'll be wanting to build the Belly Dump Trailer,
> *Just the trailer is 32" long…32" long.*
> 
> The truck will be around 17" together they'll be around 4' am I seeing this right* FOUR FOOT!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Would like some thought on this please.*





> I just noticed something interesting on the Mack truck the rear springs are just like you did it on your newest truck. How cool is that.
> 
> - htl


Sometimes I have to read comments again to understand what is meant. And about the springs I had not understand it directly. But now I understand it yes indeed cool.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Peter Built truck "Testing the waters"*
> 
> *The reason I'm posting this is for feed back, please would like your thoughts on this.*
> 
> Many of you have built the T&J projects do you wish now that it was smaller or is the size just right.
> But also would like your feed back if you haven't built any this big.
> 
> Getting ready to build the Peter built Toys and joys truck but this thing is so big I mean it's like huge!!!
> I don't know why the T&J models just don't look that big in the pictures.
> 
> I thought the well driller was big when I started it and I guess I got used to it but the thing fits on the truck so that means the trucks even bigger!!!.
> 
> I've been building toys for 40 or so years off and on and I guess I've got used to my toys being 1/2 the size of the t&j.
> The well drill can stand on it's own so not worried about that.
> Here's some of my models and toys up next to the log truck from T&J full size plan picture.
> This was just a quick group together and shot so dusty and not great lighting.
> 
> The dump truck has 2" wheels the T&J has 2 3/4" wheels.
> I thought this truck was big when I built it a couple a months ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The car has 1 1/2" wheels if I remember right.
> I liked this size but kind of small for much dealing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the steps up in size.
> The cars small
> The dump truck is to me a good size the bull dozer is just a bit bigger from the Wood Store plans.
> When I built the bull dozer I thought the t&J plans were this size.
> Then we jump up 1/3 bigger to the T&J builds to me way bigger .
> 
> I'm just having a fight with myself over the size, it's just monster big, then when I get it built I'll be wanting to build the Belly Dump Trailer,
> *Just the trailer is 32" long…32" long.*
> 
> The truck will be around 17" together they'll be around 4' am I seeing this right* FOUR FOOT!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Would like some thought on this please.*


I've had the same trouble a couple a times but no real problem, Just ask again it won't hurt my feelings and it's kind of fun seeing how those in other areas have a different way of expressing them selves.
Now them Down under people I just don't know what o think. lol

I guess I should add that sometimes my brain gets ahead of my typing and things don't come out right but I try to reread my posts to stop a lot of that.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Peter Built truck "Testing the waters"*
> 
> *The reason I'm posting this is for feed back, please would like your thoughts on this.*
> 
> Many of you have built the T&J projects do you wish now that it was smaller or is the size just right.
> But also would like your feed back if you haven't built any this big.
> 
> Getting ready to build the Peter built Toys and joys truck but this thing is so big I mean it's like huge!!!
> I don't know why the T&J models just don't look that big in the pictures.
> 
> I thought the well driller was big when I started it and I guess I got used to it but the thing fits on the truck so that means the trucks even bigger!!!.
> 
> I've been building toys for 40 or so years off and on and I guess I've got used to my toys being 1/2 the size of the t&j.
> The well drill can stand on it's own so not worried about that.
> Here's some of my models and toys up next to the log truck from T&J full size plan picture.
> This was just a quick group together and shot so dusty and not great lighting.
> 
> The dump truck has 2" wheels the T&J has 2 3/4" wheels.
> I thought this truck was big when I built it a couple a months ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The car has 1 1/2" wheels if I remember right.
> I liked this size but kind of small for much dealing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the steps up in size.
> The cars small
> The dump truck is to me a good size the bull dozer is just a bit bigger from the Wood Store plans.
> When I built the bull dozer I thought the t&J plans were this size.
> Then we jump up 1/3 bigger to the T&J builds to me way bigger .
> 
> I'm just having a fight with myself over the size, it's just monster big, then when I get it built I'll be wanting to build the Belly Dump Trailer,
> *Just the trailer is 32" long…32" long.*
> 
> The truck will be around 17" together they'll be around 4' am I seeing this right* FOUR FOOT!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Would like some thought on this please.*


In my mind I keep wanting to put really big tires on the land rover but it doesn't quite have the same looks as the hummer does it.
I really haven't seen many land rovers around my neck of the woods.
This is big 4 wheel drive territory.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Peter Built truck "Testing the waters"*
> 
> *The reason I'm posting this is for feed back, please would like your thoughts on this.*
> 
> Many of you have built the T&J projects do you wish now that it was smaller or is the size just right.
> But also would like your feed back if you haven't built any this big.
> 
> Getting ready to build the Peter built Toys and joys truck but this thing is so big I mean it's like huge!!!
> I don't know why the T&J models just don't look that big in the pictures.
> 
> I thought the well driller was big when I started it and I guess I got used to it but the thing fits on the truck so that means the trucks even bigger!!!.
> 
> I've been building toys for 40 or so years off and on and I guess I've got used to my toys being 1/2 the size of the t&j.
> The well drill can stand on it's own so not worried about that.
> Here's some of my models and toys up next to the log truck from T&J full size plan picture.
> This was just a quick group together and shot so dusty and not great lighting.
> 
> The dump truck has 2" wheels the T&J has 2 3/4" wheels.
> I thought this truck was big when I built it a couple a months ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The car has 1 1/2" wheels if I remember right.
> I liked this size but kind of small for much dealing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the steps up in size.
> The cars small
> The dump truck is to me a good size the bull dozer is just a bit bigger from the Wood Store plans.
> When I built the bull dozer I thought the t&J plans were this size.
> Then we jump up 1/3 bigger to the T&J builds to me way bigger .
> 
> I'm just having a fight with myself over the size, it's just monster big, then when I get it built I'll be wanting to build the Belly Dump Trailer,
> *Just the trailer is 32" long…32" long.*
> 
> The truck will be around 17" together they'll be around 4' am I seeing this right* FOUR FOOT!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Would like some thought on this please.*


Dutchy You may not want this but to fit the well digger with the Mack truck here's my figures.

With the pictures I showed you for the Mack truck.

The front view and side view pictures are not the same size by my figures so to match the pictures we need to go by.
The* front view* should be printed at 100%.
The *side view* needs to be enlarged to 125%, this is using the windows paint program.
This will give you 2 7/8" wheels or 75cm.
The pictures will now fit the drilling rig. 
The drilling rig base is 6" wide, the front picture is 6 1/2 wide, this will have the truck 1/4" wider than the base on each side, I think that will work.

This doesn't matter to you unless you want to build the drilling rig but the rig needs 5" to clear the roof of the truck.
The truck is 4" high from the top of the frame so 1" of clearance.

I need to find some pictures that will show how the motor, cab and axial all fit together.

Man this is the fun stuff!!!

The main thing I'm interested in with this build is the futuristic look of the truck.
I just like this style plus it's way diffrent.

Before I go much farther with this truck, I need to start a new post.


----------



## htl

*Starting the planing of the future truck*

Starting a new post for my next build which will not be the logging truck as planned but a truck that will match up with the Excavator.
I may leave the frame long at first for the well drilling rig but want a truck and trailer for the excavator.

I like the look and feel of the excavator much more than the drilling rig so we will have more fun and enjoy it more building for that.
I'm thinking of using the Mack LR as my main body type but Dutchy showed me the DAF truck from Europe which has many of the same shapes.

I know! I know!! the Mack is a garbage truck but the body is just so cool to me.
The Mack body is low for easy entry the daf is set up higher which is the way we will be going.
I may get it half built and go back to the logging truck look but I don't think that will happen.

The Mack truck.









The DAF

















The Mack has a much squarer look and would be easier to build plus I like the down low look to it.
Has that George Jetsons look of the future to me. lol

The DAF has a little bit taller more stream lined look.
I like them both and will be mixing and matching to body parts as needed.

Place you vote here. LOL

I've only got 4 good pictures to build the mack but the daf site has many great pictures of it's motor placement and all other parts so most of the body motor frame and axial placements will come from the daf.

These are just my starting point thoughts so it can change at any moment.

So my thoughts are.

1-Mack style body [square looking]
have a 4 wheel drive or six wheel [off road look]
2-Off road large tread tires.
3-Use the longer body style of the DAF but not have the roof go all the way back so we can see the trans and air filter and mufflers. [like the fairings on the over body trucks]
4-have the safety cage like on the back of the log truck.
5-cherry-walnut springs for suspension.
6-walnut-cherry-sassafras-oak-mahogany these are the woods on hand but cherry and walnut will be the main I think.
7- may but just a may have the cab flip up [hinged] just like the real trucks to work on the motor.

See what I mean the DAJ has some great pictures to get every thing just right.









*More ideas would be much appreciated.*


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Starting the planing of the future truck*
> 
> Starting a new post for my next build which will not be the logging truck as planned but a truck that will match up with the Excavator.
> I may leave the frame long at first for the well drilling rig but want a truck and trailer for the excavator.
> 
> I like the look and feel of the excavator much more than the drilling rig so we will have more fun and enjoy it more building for that.
> I'm thinking of using the Mack LR as my main body type but Dutchy showed me the DAF truck from Europe which has many of the same shapes.
> 
> I know! I know!! the Mack is a garbage truck but the body is just so cool to me.
> The Mack body is low for easy entry the daf is set up higher which is the way we will be going.
> I may get it half built and go back to the logging truck look but I don't think that will happen.
> 
> The Mack truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The DAF
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Mack has a much squarer look and would be easier to build plus I like the down low look to it.
> Has that George Jetsons look of the future to me. lol
> 
> The DAF has a little bit taller more stream lined look.
> I like them both and will be mixing and matching to body parts as needed.
> 
> Place you vote here. LOL
> 
> I've only got 4 good pictures to build the mack but the daf site has many great pictures of it's motor placement and all other parts so most of the body motor frame and axial placements will come from the daf.
> 
> These are just my starting point thoughts so it can change at any moment.
> 
> So my thoughts are.
> 
> 1-Mack style body [square looking]
> have a 4 wheel drive or six wheel [off road look]
> 2-Off road large tread tires.
> 3-Use the longer body style of the DAF but not have the roof go all the way back so we can see the trans and air filter and mufflers. [like the fairings on the over body trucks]
> 4-have the safety cage like on the back of the log truck.
> 5-cherry-walnut springs for suspension.
> 6-walnut-cherry-sassafras-oak-mahogany these are the woods on hand but cherry and walnut will be the main I think.
> 7- may but just a may have the cab flip up [hinged] just like the real trucks to work on the motor.
> 
> See what I mean the DAJ has some great pictures to get every thing just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *More ideas would be much appreciated.*


I don,t have words for it so….................PUSH


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Starting the planing of the future truck*
> 
> Starting a new post for my next build which will not be the logging truck as planned but a truck that will match up with the Excavator.
> I may leave the frame long at first for the well drilling rig but want a truck and trailer for the excavator.
> 
> I like the look and feel of the excavator much more than the drilling rig so we will have more fun and enjoy it more building for that.
> I'm thinking of using the Mack LR as my main body type but Dutchy showed me the DAF truck from Europe which has many of the same shapes.
> 
> I know! I know!! the Mack is a garbage truck but the body is just so cool to me.
> The Mack body is low for easy entry the daf is set up higher which is the way we will be going.
> I may get it half built and go back to the logging truck look but I don't think that will happen.
> 
> The Mack truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The DAF
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Mack has a much squarer look and would be easier to build plus I like the down low look to it.
> Has that George Jetsons look of the future to me. lol
> 
> The DAF has a little bit taller more stream lined look.
> I like them both and will be mixing and matching to body parts as needed.
> 
> Place you vote here. LOL
> 
> I've only got 4 good pictures to build the mack but the daf site has many great pictures of it's motor placement and all other parts so most of the body motor frame and axial placements will come from the daf.
> 
> These are just my starting point thoughts so it can change at any moment.
> 
> So my thoughts are.
> 
> 1-Mack style body [square looking]
> have a 4 wheel drive or six wheel [off road look]
> 2-Off road large tread tires.
> 3-Use the longer body style of the DAF but not have the roof go all the way back so we can see the trans and air filter and mufflers. [like the fairings on the over body trucks]
> 4-have the safety cage like on the back of the log truck.
> 5-cherry-walnut springs for suspension.
> 6-walnut-cherry-sassafras-oak-mahogany these are the woods on hand but cherry and walnut will be the main I think.
> 7- may but just a may have the cab flip up [hinged] just like the real trucks to work on the motor.
> 
> See what I mean the DAJ has some great pictures to get every thing just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *More ideas would be much appreciated.*


*There is more:*


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Starting the planing of the future truck*
> 
> Starting a new post for my next build which will not be the logging truck as planned but a truck that will match up with the Excavator.
> I may leave the frame long at first for the well drilling rig but want a truck and trailer for the excavator.
> 
> I like the look and feel of the excavator much more than the drilling rig so we will have more fun and enjoy it more building for that.
> I'm thinking of using the Mack LR as my main body type but Dutchy showed me the DAF truck from Europe which has many of the same shapes.
> 
> I know! I know!! the Mack is a garbage truck but the body is just so cool to me.
> The Mack body is low for easy entry the daf is set up higher which is the way we will be going.
> I may get it half built and go back to the logging truck look but I don't think that will happen.
> 
> The Mack truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The DAF
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Mack has a much squarer look and would be easier to build plus I like the down low look to it.
> Has that George Jetsons look of the future to me. lol
> 
> The DAF has a little bit taller more stream lined look.
> I like them both and will be mixing and matching to body parts as needed.
> 
> Place you vote here. LOL
> 
> I've only got 4 good pictures to build the mack but the daf site has many great pictures of it's motor placement and all other parts so most of the body motor frame and axial placements will come from the daf.
> 
> These are just my starting point thoughts so it can change at any moment.
> 
> So my thoughts are.
> 
> 1-Mack style body [square looking]
> have a 4 wheel drive or six wheel [off road look]
> 2-Off road large tread tires.
> 3-Use the longer body style of the DAF but not have the roof go all the way back so we can see the trans and air filter and mufflers. [like the fairings on the over body trucks]
> 4-have the safety cage like on the back of the log truck.
> 5-cherry-walnut springs for suspension.
> 6-walnut-cherry-sassafras-oak-mahogany these are the woods on hand but cherry and walnut will be the main I think.
> 7- may but just a may have the cab flip up [hinged] just like the real trucks to work on the motor.
> 
> See what I mean the DAJ has some great pictures to get every thing just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *More ideas would be much appreciated.*


Now that is way cool!!!
I wish I could play an instrument.
When I was a kid I wanted to learn to play the guitar, wanted to take guitar lessons.
My cheap cheap father found me some accordion lessens, can you guess how long those lessons lasted?
This was back in 1965 or so.
Think Cream, lead zeppelin and the like, just wasn't going to work. lol


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Starting the planing of the future truck*
> 
> Starting a new post for my next build which will not be the logging truck as planned but a truck that will match up with the Excavator.
> I may leave the frame long at first for the well drilling rig but want a truck and trailer for the excavator.
> 
> I like the look and feel of the excavator much more than the drilling rig so we will have more fun and enjoy it more building for that.
> I'm thinking of using the Mack LR as my main body type but Dutchy showed me the DAF truck from Europe which has many of the same shapes.
> 
> I know! I know!! the Mack is a garbage truck but the body is just so cool to me.
> The Mack body is low for easy entry the daf is set up higher which is the way we will be going.
> I may get it half built and go back to the logging truck look but I don't think that will happen.
> 
> The Mack truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The DAF
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Mack has a much squarer look and would be easier to build plus I like the down low look to it.
> Has that George Jetsons look of the future to me. lol
> 
> The DAF has a little bit taller more stream lined look.
> I like them both and will be mixing and matching to body parts as needed.
> 
> Place you vote here. LOL
> 
> I've only got 4 good pictures to build the mack but the daf site has many great pictures of it's motor placement and all other parts so most of the body motor frame and axial placements will come from the daf.
> 
> These are just my starting point thoughts so it can change at any moment.
> 
> So my thoughts are.
> 
> 1-Mack style body [square looking]
> have a 4 wheel drive or six wheel [off road look]
> 2-Off road large tread tires.
> 3-Use the longer body style of the DAF but not have the roof go all the way back so we can see the trans and air filter and mufflers. [like the fairings on the over body trucks]
> 4-have the safety cage like on the back of the log truck.
> 5-cherry-walnut springs for suspension.
> 6-walnut-cherry-sassafras-oak-mahogany these are the woods on hand but cherry and walnut will be the main I think.
> 7- may but just a may have the cab flip up [hinged] just like the real trucks to work on the motor.
> 
> See what I mean the DAJ has some great pictures to get every thing just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *More ideas would be much appreciated.*


Question please Bruce….Why a Cab-Over??


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Starting the planing of the future truck*
> 
> Starting a new post for my next build which will not be the logging truck as planned but a truck that will match up with the Excavator.
> I may leave the frame long at first for the well drilling rig but want a truck and trailer for the excavator.
> 
> I like the look and feel of the excavator much more than the drilling rig so we will have more fun and enjoy it more building for that.
> I'm thinking of using the Mack LR as my main body type but Dutchy showed me the DAF truck from Europe which has many of the same shapes.
> 
> I know! I know!! the Mack is a garbage truck but the body is just so cool to me.
> The Mack body is low for easy entry the daf is set up higher which is the way we will be going.
> I may get it half built and go back to the logging truck look but I don't think that will happen.
> 
> The Mack truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The DAF
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Mack has a much squarer look and would be easier to build plus I like the down low look to it.
> Has that George Jetsons look of the future to me. lol
> 
> The DAF has a little bit taller more stream lined look.
> I like them both and will be mixing and matching to body parts as needed.
> 
> Place you vote here. LOL
> 
> I've only got 4 good pictures to build the mack but the daf site has many great pictures of it's motor placement and all other parts so most of the body motor frame and axial placements will come from the daf.
> 
> These are just my starting point thoughts so it can change at any moment.
> 
> So my thoughts are.
> 
> 1-Mack style body [square looking]
> have a 4 wheel drive or six wheel [off road look]
> 2-Off road large tread tires.
> 3-Use the longer body style of the DAF but not have the roof go all the way back so we can see the trans and air filter and mufflers. [like the fairings on the over body trucks]
> 4-have the safety cage like on the back of the log truck.
> 5-cherry-walnut springs for suspension.
> 6-walnut-cherry-sassafras-oak-mahogany these are the woods on hand but cherry and walnut will be the main I think.
> 7- may but just a may have the cab flip up [hinged] just like the real trucks to work on the motor.
> 
> See what I mean the DAJ has some great pictures to get every thing just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *More ideas would be much appreciated.*


crowie 
What dutchy put up just now is what I'm talking about sorry didn't mean to confuse any body.
I think I want the sides like those in the last picture but will leave part of the back roof open so the mufflers and air filter can stick up out the top.
What I'm trying to say is have the regular cab but have sides panels extended out the sides, with the behind the cab roof open.[spoilers]
Here's the mack with out the spoiler cover.
It's really busy back there, with the spoiler you could have the mufflers and air box showing out the back with out the clutter.
See the last picture of the DAF has longer sides on the cab.
You know how the sleepers have the cab then the built in sleeper with a spoiler behind.
I want the spoiler with out the sleeper.










Man DAF really has some great info on their trucks.
Dutchy 
I hadn't seen that lay out that's really going to help.
It shows just where the motor and trans and all need to be.
That's just what we were needing. THANKS!!!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Starting the planing of the future truck*
> 
> Starting a new post for my next build which will not be the logging truck as planned but a truck that will match up with the Excavator.
> I may leave the frame long at first for the well drilling rig but want a truck and trailer for the excavator.
> 
> I like the look and feel of the excavator much more than the drilling rig so we will have more fun and enjoy it more building for that.
> I'm thinking of using the Mack LR as my main body type but Dutchy showed me the DAF truck from Europe which has many of the same shapes.
> 
> I know! I know!! the Mack is a garbage truck but the body is just so cool to me.
> The Mack body is low for easy entry the daf is set up higher which is the way we will be going.
> I may get it half built and go back to the logging truck look but I don't think that will happen.
> 
> The Mack truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The DAF
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Mack has a much squarer look and would be easier to build plus I like the down low look to it.
> Has that George Jetsons look of the future to me. lol
> 
> The DAF has a little bit taller more stream lined look.
> I like them both and will be mixing and matching to body parts as needed.
> 
> Place you vote here. LOL
> 
> I've only got 4 good pictures to build the mack but the daf site has many great pictures of it's motor placement and all other parts so most of the body motor frame and axial placements will come from the daf.
> 
> These are just my starting point thoughts so it can change at any moment.
> 
> So my thoughts are.
> 
> 1-Mack style body [square looking]
> have a 4 wheel drive or six wheel [off road look]
> 2-Off road large tread tires.
> 3-Use the longer body style of the DAF but not have the roof go all the way back so we can see the trans and air filter and mufflers. [like the fairings on the over body trucks]
> 4-have the safety cage like on the back of the log truck.
> 5-cherry-walnut springs for suspension.
> 6-walnut-cherry-sassafras-oak-mahogany these are the woods on hand but cherry and walnut will be the main I think.
> 7- may but just a may have the cab flip up [hinged] just like the real trucks to work on the motor.
> 
> See what I mean the DAJ has some great pictures to get every thing just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *More ideas would be much appreciated.*


Great!
Those frame pictures show the trans coming out from under the cab.
PS Just looked at the pictures again and may need to build a small part of the motor coming out from under the cab. *Up dated*
All depends on how deep the cab becomes.
So could easily make the trans which is in real live shaped like a box with some ribs on the sides to dress it up.
Then the drive shaft to the axial.
It would be neat to add the universal joints for detail.
It's interesting but on the Mack trucks the drive shaft goes over the top and then has a worm gear or something down to the axial, this will make a much nicer looking and much easier to build duel axial rear end,if I go that route.

Here's what the under neath may look like but with a frame.
Plus thinking about having u shaped frame members, instead of just the 3/8 by 3/4 frame..









And those are the wheels I have in mind but strait a crossed not slanted.
Plus see the springs have them like dutchy did his where they really look like springs.
Kind a wondering if I should keep some of these ideas to myself for awhile till I make them.
I know these are is some pretty wild ideas but that's the fun of it for me..
Here's where I get my joy brain storming for a build.
It's just the way my feeble brain works so don't go calling the shrinks on me.


----------



## Northwest29

htl said:


> *Starting the planing of the future truck*
> 
> Starting a new post for my next build which will not be the logging truck as planned but a truck that will match up with the Excavator.
> I may leave the frame long at first for the well drilling rig but want a truck and trailer for the excavator.
> 
> I like the look and feel of the excavator much more than the drilling rig so we will have more fun and enjoy it more building for that.
> I'm thinking of using the Mack LR as my main body type but Dutchy showed me the DAF truck from Europe which has many of the same shapes.
> 
> I know! I know!! the Mack is a garbage truck but the body is just so cool to me.
> The Mack body is low for easy entry the daf is set up higher which is the way we will be going.
> I may get it half built and go back to the logging truck look but I don't think that will happen.
> 
> The Mack truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The DAF
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Mack has a much squarer look and would be easier to build plus I like the down low look to it.
> Has that George Jetsons look of the future to me. lol
> 
> The DAF has a little bit taller more stream lined look.
> I like them both and will be mixing and matching to body parts as needed.
> 
> Place you vote here. LOL
> 
> I've only got 4 good pictures to build the mack but the daf site has many great pictures of it's motor placement and all other parts so most of the body motor frame and axial placements will come from the daf.
> 
> These are just my starting point thoughts so it can change at any moment.
> 
> So my thoughts are.
> 
> 1-Mack style body [square looking]
> have a 4 wheel drive or six wheel [off road look]
> 2-Off road large tread tires.
> 3-Use the longer body style of the DAF but not have the roof go all the way back so we can see the trans and air filter and mufflers. [like the fairings on the over body trucks]
> 4-have the safety cage like on the back of the log truck.
> 5-cherry-walnut springs for suspension.
> 6-walnut-cherry-sassafras-oak-mahogany these are the woods on hand but cherry and walnut will be the main I think.
> 7- may but just a may have the cab flip up [hinged] just like the real trucks to work on the motor.
> 
> See what I mean the DAJ has some great pictures to get every thing just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *More ideas would be much appreciated.*





> Now that is way cool!!!
> I wish I could play an instrument.
> When I was a kid I wanted to learn to play the guitar, wanted to take guitar lessons.
> My cheap cheap father found me some accordion lessens, can you guess how long those lessons lasted?
> This was back in 1965 or so.
> Think Cream, lead zeppelin and the like, just wasn t going to work. lol
> 
> - htl


Never to late to start guitar -


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Starting the planing of the future truck*
> 
> Starting a new post for my next build which will not be the logging truck as planned but a truck that will match up with the Excavator.
> I may leave the frame long at first for the well drilling rig but want a truck and trailer for the excavator.
> 
> I like the look and feel of the excavator much more than the drilling rig so we will have more fun and enjoy it more building for that.
> I'm thinking of using the Mack LR as my main body type but Dutchy showed me the DAF truck from Europe which has many of the same shapes.
> 
> I know! I know!! the Mack is a garbage truck but the body is just so cool to me.
> The Mack body is low for easy entry the daf is set up higher which is the way we will be going.
> I may get it half built and go back to the logging truck look but I don't think that will happen.
> 
> The Mack truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The DAF
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Mack has a much squarer look and would be easier to build plus I like the down low look to it.
> Has that George Jetsons look of the future to me. lol
> 
> The DAF has a little bit taller more stream lined look.
> I like them both and will be mixing and matching to body parts as needed.
> 
> Place you vote here. LOL
> 
> I've only got 4 good pictures to build the mack but the daf site has many great pictures of it's motor placement and all other parts so most of the body motor frame and axial placements will come from the daf.
> 
> These are just my starting point thoughts so it can change at any moment.
> 
> So my thoughts are.
> 
> 1-Mack style body [square looking]
> have a 4 wheel drive or six wheel [off road look]
> 2-Off road large tread tires.
> 3-Use the longer body style of the DAF but not have the roof go all the way back so we can see the trans and air filter and mufflers. [like the fairings on the over body trucks]
> 4-have the safety cage like on the back of the log truck.
> 5-cherry-walnut springs for suspension.
> 6-walnut-cherry-sassafras-oak-mahogany these are the woods on hand but cherry and walnut will be the main I think.
> 7- may but just a may have the cab flip up [hinged] just like the real trucks to work on the motor.
> 
> See what I mean the DAJ has some great pictures to get every thing just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *More ideas would be much appreciated.*


Why Northwest but I got one some years back and music needs some one with some room left in their brain or not have a hole at the bottom where it all fall out, me thinks.
I kind a think the drums would work but the brain thing still holds true in my case. lol


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Starting the planing of the future truck*
> 
> Starting a new post for my next build which will not be the logging truck as planned but a truck that will match up with the Excavator.
> I may leave the frame long at first for the well drilling rig but want a truck and trailer for the excavator.
> 
> I like the look and feel of the excavator much more than the drilling rig so we will have more fun and enjoy it more building for that.
> I'm thinking of using the Mack LR as my main body type but Dutchy showed me the DAF truck from Europe which has many of the same shapes.
> 
> I know! I know!! the Mack is a garbage truck but the body is just so cool to me.
> The Mack body is low for easy entry the daf is set up higher which is the way we will be going.
> I may get it half built and go back to the logging truck look but I don't think that will happen.
> 
> The Mack truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The DAF
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Mack has a much squarer look and would be easier to build plus I like the down low look to it.
> Has that George Jetsons look of the future to me. lol
> 
> The DAF has a little bit taller more stream lined look.
> I like them both and will be mixing and matching to body parts as needed.
> 
> Place you vote here. LOL
> 
> I've only got 4 good pictures to build the mack but the daf site has many great pictures of it's motor placement and all other parts so most of the body motor frame and axial placements will come from the daf.
> 
> These are just my starting point thoughts so it can change at any moment.
> 
> So my thoughts are.
> 
> 1-Mack style body [square looking]
> have a 4 wheel drive or six wheel [off road look]
> 2-Off road large tread tires.
> 3-Use the longer body style of the DAF but not have the roof go all the way back so we can see the trans and air filter and mufflers. [like the fairings on the over body trucks]
> 4-have the safety cage like on the back of the log truck.
> 5-cherry-walnut springs for suspension.
> 6-walnut-cherry-sassafras-oak-mahogany these are the woods on hand but cherry and walnut will be the main I think.
> 7- may but just a may have the cab flip up [hinged] just like the real trucks to work on the motor.
> 
> See what I mean the DAJ has some great pictures to get every thing just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *More ideas would be much appreciated.*


*There is more:*

Bruce here you can download a lot of jt files. To use a jt file you need free 3D viewer software from Siemens and here is where you can find it. Before you can download this software they ask for your email and adres. It isn't necessary that they are right. Every email and name will do. You can read more about jt files here I don't know if there is a conversion possible to SU files. Below some pictures what you can do with the jt file viewer:


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Starting the planing of the future truck*
> 
> Starting a new post for my next build which will not be the logging truck as planned but a truck that will match up with the Excavator.
> I may leave the frame long at first for the well drilling rig but want a truck and trailer for the excavator.
> 
> I like the look and feel of the excavator much more than the drilling rig so we will have more fun and enjoy it more building for that.
> I'm thinking of using the Mack LR as my main body type but Dutchy showed me the DAF truck from Europe which has many of the same shapes.
> 
> I know! I know!! the Mack is a garbage truck but the body is just so cool to me.
> The Mack body is low for easy entry the daf is set up higher which is the way we will be going.
> I may get it half built and go back to the logging truck look but I don't think that will happen.
> 
> The Mack truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The DAF
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Mack has a much squarer look and would be easier to build plus I like the down low look to it.
> Has that George Jetsons look of the future to me. lol
> 
> The DAF has a little bit taller more stream lined look.
> I like them both and will be mixing and matching to body parts as needed.
> 
> Place you vote here. LOL
> 
> I've only got 4 good pictures to build the mack but the daf site has many great pictures of it's motor placement and all other parts so most of the body motor frame and axial placements will come from the daf.
> 
> These are just my starting point thoughts so it can change at any moment.
> 
> So my thoughts are.
> 
> 1-Mack style body [square looking]
> have a 4 wheel drive or six wheel [off road look]
> 2-Off road large tread tires.
> 3-Use the longer body style of the DAF but not have the roof go all the way back so we can see the trans and air filter and mufflers. [like the fairings on the over body trucks]
> 4-have the safety cage like on the back of the log truck.
> 5-cherry-walnut springs for suspension.
> 6-walnut-cherry-sassafras-oak-mahogany these are the woods on hand but cherry and walnut will be the main I think.
> 7- may but just a may have the cab flip up [hinged] just like the real trucks to work on the motor.
> 
> See what I mean the DAJ has some great pictures to get every thing just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *More ideas would be much appreciated.*


*There is more:*

Here you can find by downloads a compleet PDF book called Bodybuilder guidlines 3-5. This book of more than 400 pages has a lot of information you can use.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Starting the planing of the future truck*
> 
> Starting a new post for my next build which will not be the logging truck as planned but a truck that will match up with the Excavator.
> I may leave the frame long at first for the well drilling rig but want a truck and trailer for the excavator.
> 
> I like the look and feel of the excavator much more than the drilling rig so we will have more fun and enjoy it more building for that.
> I'm thinking of using the Mack LR as my main body type but Dutchy showed me the DAF truck from Europe which has many of the same shapes.
> 
> I know! I know!! the Mack is a garbage truck but the body is just so cool to me.
> The Mack body is low for easy entry the daf is set up higher which is the way we will be going.
> I may get it half built and go back to the logging truck look but I don't think that will happen.
> 
> The Mack truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The DAF
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Mack has a much squarer look and would be easier to build plus I like the down low look to it.
> Has that George Jetsons look of the future to me. lol
> 
> The DAF has a little bit taller more stream lined look.
> I like them both and will be mixing and matching to body parts as needed.
> 
> Place you vote here. LOL
> 
> I've only got 4 good pictures to build the mack but the daf site has many great pictures of it's motor placement and all other parts so most of the body motor frame and axial placements will come from the daf.
> 
> These are just my starting point thoughts so it can change at any moment.
> 
> So my thoughts are.
> 
> 1-Mack style body [square looking]
> have a 4 wheel drive or six wheel [off road look]
> 2-Off road large tread tires.
> 3-Use the longer body style of the DAF but not have the roof go all the way back so we can see the trans and air filter and mufflers. [like the fairings on the over body trucks]
> 4-have the safety cage like on the back of the log truck.
> 5-cherry-walnut springs for suspension.
> 6-walnut-cherry-sassafras-oak-mahogany these are the woods on hand but cherry and walnut will be the main I think.
> 7- may but just a may have the cab flip up [hinged] just like the real trucks to work on the motor.
> 
> See what I mean the DAJ has some great pictures to get every thing just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *More ideas would be much appreciated.*


There's a ton of info for your build on that site for sure.
There's so much info I would have trouble choosing which way to go.


----------



## jaguar1201

htl said:


> *Starting the planing of the future truck*
> 
> Starting a new post for my next build which will not be the logging truck as planned but a truck that will match up with the Excavator.
> I may leave the frame long at first for the well drilling rig but want a truck and trailer for the excavator.
> 
> I like the look and feel of the excavator much more than the drilling rig so we will have more fun and enjoy it more building for that.
> I'm thinking of using the Mack LR as my main body type but Dutchy showed me the DAF truck from Europe which has many of the same shapes.
> 
> I know! I know!! the Mack is a garbage truck but the body is just so cool to me.
> The Mack body is low for easy entry the daf is set up higher which is the way we will be going.
> I may get it half built and go back to the logging truck look but I don't think that will happen.
> 
> The Mack truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The DAF
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Mack has a much squarer look and would be easier to build plus I like the down low look to it.
> Has that George Jetsons look of the future to me. lol
> 
> The DAF has a little bit taller more stream lined look.
> I like them both and will be mixing and matching to body parts as needed.
> 
> Place you vote here. LOL
> 
> I've only got 4 good pictures to build the mack but the daf site has many great pictures of it's motor placement and all other parts so most of the body motor frame and axial placements will come from the daf.
> 
> These are just my starting point thoughts so it can change at any moment.
> 
> So my thoughts are.
> 
> 1-Mack style body [square looking]
> have a 4 wheel drive or six wheel [off road look]
> 2-Off road large tread tires.
> 3-Use the longer body style of the DAF but not have the roof go all the way back so we can see the trans and air filter and mufflers. [like the fairings on the over body trucks]
> 4-have the safety cage like on the back of the log truck.
> 5-cherry-walnut springs for suspension.
> 6-walnut-cherry-sassafras-oak-mahogany these are the woods on hand but cherry and walnut will be the main I think.
> 7- may but just a may have the cab flip up [hinged] just like the real trucks to work on the motor.
> 
> See what I mean the DAJ has some great pictures to get every thing just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *More ideas would be much appreciated.*


Have you considered the INTERNATIONAL line of trucks by NAVISTAR? Take a look at their websites.
Enrico


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Starting the planing of the future truck*
> 
> Starting a new post for my next build which will not be the logging truck as planned but a truck that will match up with the Excavator.
> I may leave the frame long at first for the well drilling rig but want a truck and trailer for the excavator.
> 
> I like the look and feel of the excavator much more than the drilling rig so we will have more fun and enjoy it more building for that.
> I'm thinking of using the Mack LR as my main body type but Dutchy showed me the DAF truck from Europe which has many of the same shapes.
> 
> I know! I know!! the Mack is a garbage truck but the body is just so cool to me.
> The Mack body is low for easy entry the daf is set up higher which is the way we will be going.
> I may get it half built and go back to the logging truck look but I don't think that will happen.
> 
> The Mack truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The DAF
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Mack has a much squarer look and would be easier to build plus I like the down low look to it.
> Has that George Jetsons look of the future to me. lol
> 
> The DAF has a little bit taller more stream lined look.
> I like them both and will be mixing and matching to body parts as needed.
> 
> Place you vote here. LOL
> 
> I've only got 4 good pictures to build the mack but the daf site has many great pictures of it's motor placement and all other parts so most of the body motor frame and axial placements will come from the daf.
> 
> These are just my starting point thoughts so it can change at any moment.
> 
> So my thoughts are.
> 
> 1-Mack style body [square looking]
> have a 4 wheel drive or six wheel [off road look]
> 2-Off road large tread tires.
> 3-Use the longer body style of the DAF but not have the roof go all the way back so we can see the trans and air filter and mufflers. [like the fairings on the over body trucks]
> 4-have the safety cage like on the back of the log truck.
> 5-cherry-walnut springs for suspension.
> 6-walnut-cherry-sassafras-oak-mahogany these are the woods on hand but cherry and walnut will be the main I think.
> 7- may but just a may have the cab flip up [hinged] just like the real trucks to work on the motor.
> 
> See what I mean the DAJ has some great pictures to get every thing just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *More ideas would be much appreciated.*


Thanks jaguar will do.


----------



## bj383ss

htl said:


> *Starting the planing of the future truck*
> 
> Starting a new post for my next build which will not be the logging truck as planned but a truck that will match up with the Excavator.
> I may leave the frame long at first for the well drilling rig but want a truck and trailer for the excavator.
> 
> I like the look and feel of the excavator much more than the drilling rig so we will have more fun and enjoy it more building for that.
> I'm thinking of using the Mack LR as my main body type but Dutchy showed me the DAF truck from Europe which has many of the same shapes.
> 
> I know! I know!! the Mack is a garbage truck but the body is just so cool to me.
> The Mack body is low for easy entry the daf is set up higher which is the way we will be going.
> I may get it half built and go back to the logging truck look but I don't think that will happen.
> 
> The Mack truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The DAF
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Mack has a much squarer look and would be easier to build plus I like the down low look to it.
> Has that George Jetsons look of the future to me. lol
> 
> The DAF has a little bit taller more stream lined look.
> I like them both and will be mixing and matching to body parts as needed.
> 
> Place you vote here. LOL
> 
> I've only got 4 good pictures to build the mack but the daf site has many great pictures of it's motor placement and all other parts so most of the body motor frame and axial placements will come from the daf.
> 
> These are just my starting point thoughts so it can change at any moment.
> 
> So my thoughts are.
> 
> 1-Mack style body [square looking]
> have a 4 wheel drive or six wheel [off road look]
> 2-Off road large tread tires.
> 3-Use the longer body style of the DAF but not have the roof go all the way back so we can see the trans and air filter and mufflers. [like the fairings on the over body trucks]
> 4-have the safety cage like on the back of the log truck.
> 5-cherry-walnut springs for suspension.
> 6-walnut-cherry-sassafras-oak-mahogany these are the woods on hand but cherry and walnut will be the main I think.
> 7- may but just a may have the cab flip up [hinged] just like the real trucks to work on the motor.
> 
> See what I mean the DAJ has some great pictures to get every thing just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *More ideas would be much appreciated.*


I think you need to build a Scania next!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Starting the planing of the future truck*
> 
> Starting a new post for my next build which will not be the logging truck as planned but a truck that will match up with the Excavator.
> I may leave the frame long at first for the well drilling rig but want a truck and trailer for the excavator.
> 
> I like the look and feel of the excavator much more than the drilling rig so we will have more fun and enjoy it more building for that.
> I'm thinking of using the Mack LR as my main body type but Dutchy showed me the DAF truck from Europe which has many of the same shapes.
> 
> I know! I know!! the Mack is a garbage truck but the body is just so cool to me.
> The Mack body is low for easy entry the daf is set up higher which is the way we will be going.
> I may get it half built and go back to the logging truck look but I don't think that will happen.
> 
> The Mack truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The DAF
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Mack has a much squarer look and would be easier to build plus I like the down low look to it.
> Has that George Jetsons look of the future to me. lol
> 
> The DAF has a little bit taller more stream lined look.
> I like them both and will be mixing and matching to body parts as needed.
> 
> Place you vote here. LOL
> 
> I've only got 4 good pictures to build the mack but the daf site has many great pictures of it's motor placement and all other parts so most of the body motor frame and axial placements will come from the daf.
> 
> These are just my starting point thoughts so it can change at any moment.
> 
> So my thoughts are.
> 
> 1-Mack style body [square looking]
> have a 4 wheel drive or six wheel [off road look]
> 2-Off road large tread tires.
> 3-Use the longer body style of the DAF but not have the roof go all the way back so we can see the trans and air filter and mufflers. [like the fairings on the over body trucks]
> 4-have the safety cage like on the back of the log truck.
> 5-cherry-walnut springs for suspension.
> 6-walnut-cherry-sassafras-oak-mahogany these are the woods on hand but cherry and walnut will be the main I think.
> 7- may but just a may have the cab flip up [hinged] just like the real trucks to work on the motor.
> 
> See what I mean the DAJ has some great pictures to get every thing just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *More ideas would be much appreciated.*


After I finish my caboose I'm looking at your rocket ships. LOL

UP UP and away!!!

Where did you get the plans for your truck or is it scratch, ether way it's way cool?


----------



## htl

*Starting to build the Mack LR Truck #1 Plans*

I'm starting to lay out where everything goes on paper with the few down loaded Mack and some great Daf pictures I could find.
Then I can take some measurements and off to the shop I go.
I will be working on the frame axles[differential] springs motor and trans.
Probable should make the wheels fairly soon so I'll have those measurements.
Those wheels are going to be interesting, I've never made any like this before.
I just love those wheels I posted, will be kind of off road, on road tires.
On our dirt bikes we called them universal tires.

These parts done will let me then know how to proceed with the body.
One of the reasons there's not much info on the Mack LR, It just came out last year so it's a really new design.

Here's my plans so far, not much but this is a do as you go builds.
The plans measure out to 17" which is what the log truck come out to, may need to make the frame a little longer for the drilling rig but I'm going the build the frame long any way.
Hope I won't need to back up and redo to much but to is what it is.

Blow these plans up so the wheels are 2 7/8" cut them out and you've got my truck.
This could turn out to be one wild looking truck or one really ugly turkey we'll see.
*Well here's to the start of a fine finish I hope.*


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Starting to build the Mack LR Truck #1 Plans*
> 
> I'm starting to lay out where everything goes on paper with the few down loaded Mack and some great Daf pictures I could find.
> Then I can take some measurements and off to the shop I go.
> I will be working on the frame axles[differential] springs motor and trans.
> Probable should make the wheels fairly soon so I'll have those measurements.
> Those wheels are going to be interesting, I've never made any like this before.
> I just love those wheels I posted, will be kind of off road, on road tires.
> On our dirt bikes we called them universal tires.
> 
> These parts done will let me then know how to proceed with the body.
> One of the reasons there's not much info on the Mack LR, It just came out last year so it's a really new design.
> 
> Here's my plans so far, not much but this is a do as you go builds.
> The plans measure out to 17" which is what the log truck come out to, may need to make the frame a little longer for the drilling rig but I'm going the build the frame long any way.
> Hope I won't need to back up and redo to much but to is what it is.
> 
> Blow these plans up so the wheels are 2 7/8" cut them out and you've got my truck.
> This could turn out to be one wild looking truck or one really ugly turkey we'll see.
> *Well here's to the start of a fine finish I hope.*


Should be fun to follow along. You just gonna build the basic cab and chassis so you can add the oil rig? Or you gonna get "creative" and make it so other bodies can go on it?
.
.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Starting to build the Mack LR Truck #1 Plans*
> 
> I'm starting to lay out where everything goes on paper with the few down loaded Mack and some great Daf pictures I could find.
> Then I can take some measurements and off to the shop I go.
> I will be working on the frame axles[differential] springs motor and trans.
> Probable should make the wheels fairly soon so I'll have those measurements.
> Those wheels are going to be interesting, I've never made any like this before.
> I just love those wheels I posted, will be kind of off road, on road tires.
> On our dirt bikes we called them universal tires.
> 
> These parts done will let me then know how to proceed with the body.
> One of the reasons there's not much info on the Mack LR, It just came out last year so it's a really new design.
> 
> Here's my plans so far, not much but this is a do as you go builds.
> The plans measure out to 17" which is what the log truck come out to, may need to make the frame a little longer for the drilling rig but I'm going the build the frame long any way.
> Hope I won't need to back up and redo to much but to is what it is.
> 
> Blow these plans up so the wheels are 2 7/8" cut them out and you've got my truck.
> This could turn out to be one wild looking truck or one really ugly turkey we'll see.
> *Well here's to the start of a fine finish I hope.*


JoeinGa You know it!!!
Joe you didn't read my last two posts did you? LOL
I really like the excavator so will first leave the frame long and take some pictures with the drilling rig then build a trailer for the truck so the excavator can take a ride.
That is if every thing goes all right and I don't get burned out.
This is as you said really a simple build but have planes for many details.

*I have been spoiled* by building with plans from Toys & Joys.
All I had to do was read the measurement and cut the board and most of the time I could cut out a picture and paste it to the wood and cut.

Now I'm back to needing to know what the size of a part is that I haven't build yet, now doesn't that sound like fun???


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Starting to build the Mack LR Truck #1 Plans*
> 
> I'm starting to lay out where everything goes on paper with the few down loaded Mack and some great Daf pictures I could find.
> Then I can take some measurements and off to the shop I go.
> I will be working on the frame axles[differential] springs motor and trans.
> Probable should make the wheels fairly soon so I'll have those measurements.
> Those wheels are going to be interesting, I've never made any like this before.
> I just love those wheels I posted, will be kind of off road, on road tires.
> On our dirt bikes we called them universal tires.
> 
> These parts done will let me then know how to proceed with the body.
> One of the reasons there's not much info on the Mack LR, It just came out last year so it's a really new design.
> 
> Here's my plans so far, not much but this is a do as you go builds.
> The plans measure out to 17" which is what the log truck come out to, may need to make the frame a little longer for the drilling rig but I'm going the build the frame long any way.
> Hope I won't need to back up and redo to much but to is what it is.
> 
> Blow these plans up so the wheels are 2 7/8" cut them out and you've got my truck.
> This could turn out to be one wild looking truck or one really ugly turkey we'll see.
> *Well here's to the start of a fine finish I hope.*


So here's my first parts for the mack the main frame member.
Not much but it's a start.








Now here's what I used to make it.

I use 7 1/2" or skill saw blades on my Dewalt saw to do all my cutting, my miter saw also uses that size.
When I buy saw blades I'm trying to always buy the same brand and size blade because by using 2 or 3 blades I can make dado cuts.
I made a mistake when I bought my table saw I got the cheapest one Dewalt sells at Home Depot,don't get me wrong it's a great saw but it won't let me cut full dadoes which at the time I didn't think I was going to be making.
So to get around this I use my old saw blades 2 or 3 at a time to get the dadoes done.

Making this dado cut shown would have taken 6 passes with the saw but with my 3 blade set up I did it in two.

I set the saw up make one cut flip the board around cut again and it's done and perfectly centered.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Starting to build the Mack LR Truck #1 Plans*
> 
> I'm starting to lay out where everything goes on paper with the few down loaded Mack and some great Daf pictures I could find.
> Then I can take some measurements and off to the shop I go.
> I will be working on the frame axles[differential] springs motor and trans.
> Probable should make the wheels fairly soon so I'll have those measurements.
> Those wheels are going to be interesting, I've never made any like this before.
> I just love those wheels I posted, will be kind of off road, on road tires.
> On our dirt bikes we called them universal tires.
> 
> These parts done will let me then know how to proceed with the body.
> One of the reasons there's not much info on the Mack LR, It just came out last year so it's a really new design.
> 
> Here's my plans so far, not much but this is a do as you go builds.
> The plans measure out to 17" which is what the log truck come out to, may need to make the frame a little longer for the drilling rig but I'm going the build the frame long any way.
> Hope I won't need to back up and redo to much but to is what it is.
> 
> Blow these plans up so the wheels are 2 7/8" cut them out and you've got my truck.
> This could turn out to be one wild looking truck or one really ugly turkey we'll see.
> *Well here's to the start of a fine finish I hope.*


I just found where I got the idea for the wheels,
And how to build them. LOL
I should have known, those are some really nice looking tires..
Dutchy your way way ahead of me.
http://lumberjocks.com/Dutchy/blog/66410


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Starting to build the Mack LR Truck #1 Plans*
> 
> I'm starting to lay out where everything goes on paper with the few down loaded Mack and some great Daf pictures I could find.
> Then I can take some measurements and off to the shop I go.
> I will be working on the frame axles[differential] springs motor and trans.
> Probable should make the wheels fairly soon so I'll have those measurements.
> Those wheels are going to be interesting, I've never made any like this before.
> I just love those wheels I posted, will be kind of off road, on road tires.
> On our dirt bikes we called them universal tires.
> 
> These parts done will let me then know how to proceed with the body.
> One of the reasons there's not much info on the Mack LR, It just came out last year so it's a really new design.
> 
> Here's my plans so far, not much but this is a do as you go builds.
> The plans measure out to 17" which is what the log truck come out to, may need to make the frame a little longer for the drilling rig but I'm going the build the frame long any way.
> Hope I won't need to back up and redo to much but to is what it is.
> 
> Blow these plans up so the wheels are 2 7/8" cut them out and you've got my truck.
> This could turn out to be one wild looking truck or one really ugly turkey we'll see.
> *Well here's to the start of a fine finish I hope.*





> I set the saw up make one cut flip the board around cut again and it s done and perfectly centered.
> 
> - htl


That is more precise and also faster than doing it in one cut with a wider dado.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Starting to build the Mack LR Truck #1 Plans*
> 
> I'm starting to lay out where everything goes on paper with the few down loaded Mack and some great Daf pictures I could find.
> Then I can take some measurements and off to the shop I go.
> I will be working on the frame axles[differential] springs motor and trans.
> Probable should make the wheels fairly soon so I'll have those measurements.
> Those wheels are going to be interesting, I've never made any like this before.
> I just love those wheels I posted, will be kind of off road, on road tires.
> On our dirt bikes we called them universal tires.
> 
> These parts done will let me then know how to proceed with the body.
> One of the reasons there's not much info on the Mack LR, It just came out last year so it's a really new design.
> 
> Here's my plans so far, not much but this is a do as you go builds.
> The plans measure out to 17" which is what the log truck come out to, may need to make the frame a little longer for the drilling rig but I'm going the build the frame long any way.
> Hope I won't need to back up and redo to much but to is what it is.
> 
> Blow these plans up so the wheels are 2 7/8" cut them out and you've got my truck.
> This could turn out to be one wild looking truck or one really ugly turkey we'll see.
> *Well here's to the start of a fine finish I hope.*





> I just found where I got the idea for the wheels,
> And how to build them. LOL
> I should have known, those are some really nice looking tires..
> Dutchy your way way ahead of me.
> http://lumberjocks.com/Dutchy/blog/66410
> 
> - htl


This week I'm starting again making tires. Do it a little different now. Hope to post a blog in a couple of days.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Starting to build the Mack LR Truck #1 Plans*
> 
> I'm starting to lay out where everything goes on paper with the few down loaded Mack and some great Daf pictures I could find.
> Then I can take some measurements and off to the shop I go.
> I will be working on the frame axles[differential] springs motor and trans.
> Probable should make the wheels fairly soon so I'll have those measurements.
> Those wheels are going to be interesting, I've never made any like this before.
> I just love those wheels I posted, will be kind of off road, on road tires.
> On our dirt bikes we called them universal tires.
> 
> These parts done will let me then know how to proceed with the body.
> One of the reasons there's not much info on the Mack LR, It just came out last year so it's a really new design.
> 
> Here's my plans so far, not much but this is a do as you go builds.
> The plans measure out to 17" which is what the log truck come out to, may need to make the frame a little longer for the drilling rig but I'm going the build the frame long any way.
> Hope I won't need to back up and redo to much but to is what it is.
> 
> Blow these plans up so the wheels are 2 7/8" cut them out and you've got my truck.
> This could turn out to be one wild looking truck or one really ugly turkey we'll see.
> *Well here's to the start of a fine finish I hope.*


Cool than I'll wait on my wheels so I can steal I mean use you great ideas and blend them in with mine.
Dutch what other model sites have you found useful for your work may I ask.

And this goes for any others that have found any great even not so great sites that have helped your working with small parts.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Starting to build the Mack LR Truck #1 Plans*
> 
> I'm starting to lay out where everything goes on paper with the few down loaded Mack and some great Daf pictures I could find.
> Then I can take some measurements and off to the shop I go.
> I will be working on the frame axles[differential] springs motor and trans.
> Probable should make the wheels fairly soon so I'll have those measurements.
> Those wheels are going to be interesting, I've never made any like this before.
> I just love those wheels I posted, will be kind of off road, on road tires.
> On our dirt bikes we called them universal tires.
> 
> These parts done will let me then know how to proceed with the body.
> One of the reasons there's not much info on the Mack LR, It just came out last year so it's a really new design.
> 
> Here's my plans so far, not much but this is a do as you go builds.
> The plans measure out to 17" which is what the log truck come out to, may need to make the frame a little longer for the drilling rig but I'm going the build the frame long any way.
> Hope I won't need to back up and redo to much but to is what it is.
> 
> Blow these plans up so the wheels are 2 7/8" cut them out and you've got my truck.
> This could turn out to be one wild looking truck or one really ugly turkey we'll see.
> *Well here's to the start of a fine finish I hope.*


I've been searching for more info on the Mack LR and not finding much, but whats funny is when I did a search for *Mack LR frame* the picture of the frame I made and down loaded here [it's the picture at the top of the page] came up in like the 10 line down on the search.
I think that helps show how new this truck is when it comes to info and pictures.


----------



## MrRon

htl said:


> *Starting to build the Mack LR Truck #1 Plans*
> 
> I'm starting to lay out where everything goes on paper with the few down loaded Mack and some great Daf pictures I could find.
> Then I can take some measurements and off to the shop I go.
> I will be working on the frame axles[differential] springs motor and trans.
> Probable should make the wheels fairly soon so I'll have those measurements.
> Those wheels are going to be interesting, I've never made any like this before.
> I just love those wheels I posted, will be kind of off road, on road tires.
> On our dirt bikes we called them universal tires.
> 
> These parts done will let me then know how to proceed with the body.
> One of the reasons there's not much info on the Mack LR, It just came out last year so it's a really new design.
> 
> Here's my plans so far, not much but this is a do as you go builds.
> The plans measure out to 17" which is what the log truck come out to, may need to make the frame a little longer for the drilling rig but I'm going the build the frame long any way.
> Hope I won't need to back up and redo to much but to is what it is.
> 
> Blow these plans up so the wheels are 2 7/8" cut them out and you've got my truck.
> This could turn out to be one wild looking truck or one really ugly turkey we'll see.
> *Well here's to the start of a fine finish I hope.*


When I build models, I also use a 7-1/4" blade as it is a bit more precise than a 10" blade and a lot less noisy. A 60 tooth blade works good.


----------



## htl

*Making Tires or is it Tyres. LOL*

The spell checker says tire. LOL

Been holding my breath waiting for Dutchy to blog his wheels and the wait was not wasted a great post.
This will help me out when I start sawing out the treads but first I needed to cut out the wheels to round and so that's what I did today.
Almost exactly like Jan did it but using different tools to accomplish the same exact thing.
The wheels will be 3" or just shy of that.
I had no idea what size to cut the two out sides and center for the wheels but figured 3/8" and 1/4" wheels felt right hoping Jan gives me a thumbs up on that.
So ripped the wood to 3 1/4" and then resawed them on the table saw.
Cut half way though then flip and cut the rest, then hit the planer to clean it up.










I love harbor freight's $6 feather boards they really come in handy.
Clamp it down and that's one part of the cut I don't have to worry about while resawing.










Glued on the pattern for the tires, band saw close to round, drill a center hole and they're ready to be sanded to round.










*Here where the Shop Smith shines!!!*
I made a jig to hold the wheels in place and used the SS's drill press mod with the sanding disk to shape the tire.
I'm able to sand 4 at once to speed things up a little.



















As you can see the jig is bolted to the table saw.
I have a bolt, bolted to the jig to hold the wheels down but loose enough to be able to turn them.
Now turn on the saw and with the drill press mod push the sanding disk as hard or softly as I need to safely sand the tires as I turn them.








This is made possible because the SS has a great depth stop for the drill.








So there they are waiting for the next half of Jans blog.









I was planing on making a jig to use the table saw to cut all the treads at once kinda like Jan did in his Hydraulic crane build but Jan's using the band saw this time and I think I'll follow his lead again and use the band saw..


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Making Tires or is it Tyres. LOL*
> 
> The spell checker says tire. LOL
> 
> Been holding my breath waiting for Dutchy to blog his wheels and the wait was not wasted a great post.
> This will help me out when I start sawing out the treads but first I needed to cut out the wheels to round and so that's what I did today.
> Almost exactly like Jan did it but using different tools to accomplish the same exact thing.
> The wheels will be 3" or just shy of that.
> I had no idea what size to cut the two out sides and center for the wheels but figured 3/8" and 1/4" wheels felt right hoping Jan gives me a thumbs up on that.
> So ripped the wood to 3 1/4" and then resawed them on the table saw.
> Cut half way though then flip and cut the rest, then hit the planer to clean it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love harbor freight's $6 feather boards they really come in handy.
> Clamp it down and that's one part of the cut I don't have to worry about while resawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued on the pattern for the tires, band saw close to round, drill a center hole and they're ready to be sanded to round.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Here where the Shop Smith shines!!!*
> I made a jig to hold the wheels in place and used the SS's drill press mod with the sanding disk to shape the tire.
> I'm able to sand 4 at once to speed things up a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see the jig is bolted to the table saw.
> I have a bolt, bolted to the jig to hold the wheels down but loose enough to be able to turn them.
> Now turn on the saw and with the drill press mod push the sanding disk as hard or softly as I need to safely sand the tires as I turn them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is made possible because the SS has a great depth stop for the drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there they are waiting for the next half of Jans blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was planing on making a jig to use the table saw to cut all the treads at once kinda like Jan did in his Hydraulic crane build but Jan's using the band saw this time and I think I'll follow his lead again and use the band saw..


I like that SS machine. Very handy.Also like to see that your process is similar to mine. I'm sure others are stimulated to start with "toy" building.

BTW you have to remove some rust


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Making Tires or is it Tyres. LOL*
> 
> The spell checker says tire. LOL
> 
> Been holding my breath waiting for Dutchy to blog his wheels and the wait was not wasted a great post.
> This will help me out when I start sawing out the treads but first I needed to cut out the wheels to round and so that's what I did today.
> Almost exactly like Jan did it but using different tools to accomplish the same exact thing.
> The wheels will be 3" or just shy of that.
> I had no idea what size to cut the two out sides and center for the wheels but figured 3/8" and 1/4" wheels felt right hoping Jan gives me a thumbs up on that.
> So ripped the wood to 3 1/4" and then resawed them on the table saw.
> Cut half way though then flip and cut the rest, then hit the planer to clean it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love harbor freight's $6 feather boards they really come in handy.
> Clamp it down and that's one part of the cut I don't have to worry about while resawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued on the pattern for the tires, band saw close to round, drill a center hole and they're ready to be sanded to round.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Here where the Shop Smith shines!!!*
> I made a jig to hold the wheels in place and used the SS's drill press mod with the sanding disk to shape the tire.
> I'm able to sand 4 at once to speed things up a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see the jig is bolted to the table saw.
> I have a bolt, bolted to the jig to hold the wheels down but loose enough to be able to turn them.
> Now turn on the saw and with the drill press mod push the sanding disk as hard or softly as I need to safely sand the tires as I turn them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is made possible because the SS has a great depth stop for the drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there they are waiting for the next half of Jans blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was planing on making a jig to use the table saw to cut all the treads at once kinda like Jan did in his Hydraulic crane build but Jan's using the band saw this time and I think I'll follow his lead again and use the band saw..


*"BTW you have to remove some rust "*
If you would have seen him when I first got it you'd think he was looking a lot better.
He sat in a shed for 25 or more years not talking to any one, so I think he's just glad to see the light of day and will brighten up as time goes by.
I'm not a keep every thing shiny type of person, keep it oiled and aligned and every things fine, but I will say that since I built my cyclone I like to suck up all the dust and keep it under control more.
.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Making Tires or is it Tyres. LOL*
> 
> The spell checker says tire. LOL
> 
> Been holding my breath waiting for Dutchy to blog his wheels and the wait was not wasted a great post.
> This will help me out when I start sawing out the treads but first I needed to cut out the wheels to round and so that's what I did today.
> Almost exactly like Jan did it but using different tools to accomplish the same exact thing.
> The wheels will be 3" or just shy of that.
> I had no idea what size to cut the two out sides and center for the wheels but figured 3/8" and 1/4" wheels felt right hoping Jan gives me a thumbs up on that.
> So ripped the wood to 3 1/4" and then resawed them on the table saw.
> Cut half way though then flip and cut the rest, then hit the planer to clean it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love harbor freight's $6 feather boards they really come in handy.
> Clamp it down and that's one part of the cut I don't have to worry about while resawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued on the pattern for the tires, band saw close to round, drill a center hole and they're ready to be sanded to round.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Here where the Shop Smith shines!!!*
> I made a jig to hold the wheels in place and used the SS's drill press mod with the sanding disk to shape the tire.
> I'm able to sand 4 at once to speed things up a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see the jig is bolted to the table saw.
> I have a bolt, bolted to the jig to hold the wheels down but loose enough to be able to turn them.
> Now turn on the saw and with the drill press mod push the sanding disk as hard or softly as I need to safely sand the tires as I turn them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is made possible because the SS has a great depth stop for the drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there they are waiting for the next half of Jans blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was planing on making a jig to use the table saw to cut all the treads at once kinda like Jan did in his Hydraulic crane build but Jan's using the band saw this time and I think I'll follow his lead again and use the band saw..


Sorry Bruce but "downunder" they are spelt *"TYRES"*


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Making Tires or is it Tyres. LOL*
> 
> The spell checker says tire. LOL
> 
> Been holding my breath waiting for Dutchy to blog his wheels and the wait was not wasted a great post.
> This will help me out when I start sawing out the treads but first I needed to cut out the wheels to round and so that's what I did today.
> Almost exactly like Jan did it but using different tools to accomplish the same exact thing.
> The wheels will be 3" or just shy of that.
> I had no idea what size to cut the two out sides and center for the wheels but figured 3/8" and 1/4" wheels felt right hoping Jan gives me a thumbs up on that.
> So ripped the wood to 3 1/4" and then resawed them on the table saw.
> Cut half way though then flip and cut the rest, then hit the planer to clean it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love harbor freight's $6 feather boards they really come in handy.
> Clamp it down and that's one part of the cut I don't have to worry about while resawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued on the pattern for the tires, band saw close to round, drill a center hole and they're ready to be sanded to round.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Here where the Shop Smith shines!!!*
> I made a jig to hold the wheels in place and used the SS's drill press mod with the sanding disk to shape the tire.
> I'm able to sand 4 at once to speed things up a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see the jig is bolted to the table saw.
> I have a bolt, bolted to the jig to hold the wheels down but loose enough to be able to turn them.
> Now turn on the saw and with the drill press mod push the sanding disk as hard or softly as I need to safely sand the tires as I turn them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is made possible because the SS has a great depth stop for the drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there they are waiting for the next half of Jans blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was planing on making a jig to use the table saw to cut all the treads at once kinda like Jan did in his Hydraulic crane build but Jan's using the band saw this time and I think I'll follow his lead again and use the band saw..


The spell checker also says I'm an idiot… doesn't mean it is 100% correct… LBMB (Laugh Behind My Back)...


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Making Tires or is it Tyres. LOL*
> 
> The spell checker says tire. LOL
> 
> Been holding my breath waiting for Dutchy to blog his wheels and the wait was not wasted a great post.
> This will help me out when I start sawing out the treads but first I needed to cut out the wheels to round and so that's what I did today.
> Almost exactly like Jan did it but using different tools to accomplish the same exact thing.
> The wheels will be 3" or just shy of that.
> I had no idea what size to cut the two out sides and center for the wheels but figured 3/8" and 1/4" wheels felt right hoping Jan gives me a thumbs up on that.
> So ripped the wood to 3 1/4" and then resawed them on the table saw.
> Cut half way though then flip and cut the rest, then hit the planer to clean it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love harbor freight's $6 feather boards they really come in handy.
> Clamp it down and that's one part of the cut I don't have to worry about while resawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued on the pattern for the tires, band saw close to round, drill a center hole and they're ready to be sanded to round.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Here where the Shop Smith shines!!!*
> I made a jig to hold the wheels in place and used the SS's drill press mod with the sanding disk to shape the tire.
> I'm able to sand 4 at once to speed things up a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see the jig is bolted to the table saw.
> I have a bolt, bolted to the jig to hold the wheels down but loose enough to be able to turn them.
> Now turn on the saw and with the drill press mod push the sanding disk as hard or softly as I need to safely sand the tires as I turn them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is made possible because the SS has a great depth stop for the drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there they are waiting for the next half of Jans blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was planing on making a jig to use the table saw to cut all the treads at once kinda like Jan did in his Hydraulic crane build but Jan's using the band saw this time and I think I'll follow his lead again and use the band saw..


(On return, prompted bi iour *#26 *blog quotyng "Yf iou've got ugli tires iou've got an ugli project,"...) 
I'll *tri* not to knock iour *tire* spellyng, Y'm gettyng tyred of correctyng Ianki mystakes.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Making Tires or is it Tyres. LOL*
> 
> The spell checker says tire. LOL
> 
> Been holding my breath waiting for Dutchy to blog his wheels and the wait was not wasted a great post.
> This will help me out when I start sawing out the treads but first I needed to cut out the wheels to round and so that's what I did today.
> Almost exactly like Jan did it but using different tools to accomplish the same exact thing.
> The wheels will be 3" or just shy of that.
> I had no idea what size to cut the two out sides and center for the wheels but figured 3/8" and 1/4" wheels felt right hoping Jan gives me a thumbs up on that.
> So ripped the wood to 3 1/4" and then resawed them on the table saw.
> Cut half way though then flip and cut the rest, then hit the planer to clean it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love harbor freight's $6 feather boards they really come in handy.
> Clamp it down and that's one part of the cut I don't have to worry about while resawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued on the pattern for the tires, band saw close to round, drill a center hole and they're ready to be sanded to round.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Here where the Shop Smith shines!!!*
> I made a jig to hold the wheels in place and used the SS's drill press mod with the sanding disk to shape the tire.
> I'm able to sand 4 at once to speed things up a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see the jig is bolted to the table saw.
> I have a bolt, bolted to the jig to hold the wheels down but loose enough to be able to turn them.
> Now turn on the saw and with the drill press mod push the sanding disk as hard or softly as I need to safely sand the tires as I turn them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is made possible because the SS has a great depth stop for the drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there they are waiting for the next half of Jans blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was planing on making a jig to use the table saw to cut all the treads at once kinda like Jan did in his Hydraulic crane build but Jan's using the band saw this time and I think I'll follow his lead again and use the band saw..


I'm not getting notices of post so just missed this post till now Duck???


----------



## htl

*Tires day 2.*

Building wheels and tires is not a one day project, its really one of the biggest part of the build.
If you've got ugly tires you've got an ugly project, it's strange how much the tires can make or break a project.
Still in the planing stage right now but can be building the wheel parts till I figure it out.










Now that I've got the tires to size it's time to add the tread and like Jan I'll be using the band saw.
I made a jig from some scrap 3/4 ply wood with a dowel to hold 5 tires at once.
The dowelwill keep the tires at the right place for the saw and I also am using a stop block to stop the jig at a consistent tread depth.
Like Jan I drilled a hole for a small dowel to keep the 5 wheels in line. [It is hide behind the center pivot dowel]
I thought of hot glue or two sided tape but there's a lot of clean up going that way, plus when you take them apart there's the chance of breaking the part.
I turn the wheels with the pattern glued to the top for 36 tread groves.


















Since I band sawed the treads first I'm not going to route the shape on the corners this would bugger up the treads.
I will be using the Shop Smith again in drum sander mod to shape the out side edges.
Here again the SS gets er done with easy.
Now when I say with easy you have to remember there are 10 wheels and three parts to the tire so that makes 30 parts to be made and shapes and and and.LOL
I like a fatter tire look for this build that's why I'm rounding the out side of the tires.



























Now we need to notch the center tire part and we'll use the table saw for this.
I'm using a feather board to keep the tire centered as I turn the part to make the notch.
Ps This is a very shallow notch so not afraid to do it this way.



















Now I'm going to have to sand all those groves, want to help???

That's about all for today but just had to put some tires together and see what different looks can be had with these parts.
I really like the 4 part tire it gives it a fatter look, wish I had made some extra center parts.

What do you all think?


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Tires day 2.*
> 
> Building wheels and tires is not a one day project, its really one of the biggest part of the build.
> If you've got ugly tires you've got an ugly project, it's strange how much the tires can make or break a project.
> Still in the planing stage right now but can be building the wheel parts till I figure it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that I've got the tires to size it's time to add the tread and like Jan I'll be using the band saw.
> I made a jig from some scrap 3/4 ply wood with a dowel to hold 5 tires at once.
> The dowelwill keep the tires at the right place for the saw and I also am using a stop block to stop the jig at a consistent tread depth.
> Like Jan I drilled a hole for a small dowel to keep the 5 wheels in line. [It is hide behind the center pivot dowel]
> I thought of hot glue or two sided tape but there's a lot of clean up going that way, plus when you take them apart there's the chance of breaking the part.
> I turn the wheels with the pattern glued to the top for 36 tread groves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I band sawed the treads first I'm not going to route the shape on the corners this would bugger up the treads.
> I will be using the Shop Smith again in drum sander mod to shape the out side edges.
> Here again the SS gets er done with easy.
> Now when I say with easy you have to remember there are 10 wheels and three parts to the tire so that makes 30 parts to be made and shapes and and and.LOL
> I like a fatter tire look for this build that's why I'm rounding the out side of the tires.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to notch the center tire part and we'll use the table saw for this.
> I'm using a feather board to keep the tire centered as I turn the part to make the notch.
> Ps This is a very shallow notch so not afraid to do it this way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm going to have to sand all those groves, want to help???
> 
> That's about all for today but just had to put some tires together and see what different looks can be had with these parts.
> I really like the 4 part tire it gives it a fatter look, wish I had made some extra center parts.
> 
> What do you all think?


I like the look of the 4-part ones also. So why mot make some more centers? It's not like you're on a schedule and have to meet a deadline.

Oh, and if you ever build a "Monster truck" those 6-part ones would work great. ( I got to stand next to this one at the Ford Plant when we lived in St Louis )
.
.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Tires day 2.*
> 
> Building wheels and tires is not a one day project, its really one of the biggest part of the build.
> If you've got ugly tires you've got an ugly project, it's strange how much the tires can make or break a project.
> Still in the planing stage right now but can be building the wheel parts till I figure it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that I've got the tires to size it's time to add the tread and like Jan I'll be using the band saw.
> I made a jig from some scrap 3/4 ply wood with a dowel to hold 5 tires at once.
> The dowelwill keep the tires at the right place for the saw and I also am using a stop block to stop the jig at a consistent tread depth.
> Like Jan I drilled a hole for a small dowel to keep the 5 wheels in line. [It is hide behind the center pivot dowel]
> I thought of hot glue or two sided tape but there's a lot of clean up going that way, plus when you take them apart there's the chance of breaking the part.
> I turn the wheels with the pattern glued to the top for 36 tread groves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I band sawed the treads first I'm not going to route the shape on the corners this would bugger up the treads.
> I will be using the Shop Smith again in drum sander mod to shape the out side edges.
> Here again the SS gets er done with easy.
> Now when I say with easy you have to remember there are 10 wheels and three parts to the tire so that makes 30 parts to be made and shapes and and and.LOL
> I like a fatter tire look for this build that's why I'm rounding the out side of the tires.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to notch the center tire part and we'll use the table saw for this.
> I'm using a feather board to keep the tire centered as I turn the part to make the notch.
> Ps This is a very shallow notch so not afraid to do it this way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm going to have to sand all those groves, want to help???
> 
> That's about all for today but just had to put some tires together and see what different looks can be had with these parts.
> I really like the 4 part tire it gives it a fatter look, wish I had made some extra center parts.
> 
> What do you all think?


Joe because I'm cross eyed from making the few I have. LOL
Tire making is all most as monotonous as making tracks for the excavator.
You are right! that 4 part wheel really would set the look of this project. HMMMMMMM

Here's some fat tires I made for my crane.
Being just groved made these much easier to build.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Tires day 2.*
> 
> Building wheels and tires is not a one day project, its really one of the biggest part of the build.
> If you've got ugly tires you've got an ugly project, it's strange how much the tires can make or break a project.
> Still in the planing stage right now but can be building the wheel parts till I figure it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that I've got the tires to size it's time to add the tread and like Jan I'll be using the band saw.
> I made a jig from some scrap 3/4 ply wood with a dowel to hold 5 tires at once.
> The dowelwill keep the tires at the right place for the saw and I also am using a stop block to stop the jig at a consistent tread depth.
> Like Jan I drilled a hole for a small dowel to keep the 5 wheels in line. [It is hide behind the center pivot dowel]
> I thought of hot glue or two sided tape but there's a lot of clean up going that way, plus when you take them apart there's the chance of breaking the part.
> I turn the wheels with the pattern glued to the top for 36 tread groves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I band sawed the treads first I'm not going to route the shape on the corners this would bugger up the treads.
> I will be using the Shop Smith again in drum sander mod to shape the out side edges.
> Here again the SS gets er done with easy.
> Now when I say with easy you have to remember there are 10 wheels and three parts to the tire so that makes 30 parts to be made and shapes and and and.LOL
> I like a fatter tire look for this build that's why I'm rounding the out side of the tires.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to notch the center tire part and we'll use the table saw for this.
> I'm using a feather board to keep the tire centered as I turn the part to make the notch.
> Ps This is a very shallow notch so not afraid to do it this way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm going to have to sand all those groves, want to help???
> 
> That's about all for today but just had to put some tires together and see what different looks can be had with these parts.
> I really like the 4 part tire it gives it a fatter look, wish I had made some extra center parts.
> 
> What do you all think?


A lot of work isn't it? *Looks good.*


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Tires day 2.*
> 
> Building wheels and tires is not a one day project, its really one of the biggest part of the build.
> If you've got ugly tires you've got an ugly project, it's strange how much the tires can make or break a project.
> Still in the planing stage right now but can be building the wheel parts till I figure it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that I've got the tires to size it's time to add the tread and like Jan I'll be using the band saw.
> I made a jig from some scrap 3/4 ply wood with a dowel to hold 5 tires at once.
> The dowelwill keep the tires at the right place for the saw and I also am using a stop block to stop the jig at a consistent tread depth.
> Like Jan I drilled a hole for a small dowel to keep the 5 wheels in line. [It is hide behind the center pivot dowel]
> I thought of hot glue or two sided tape but there's a lot of clean up going that way, plus when you take them apart there's the chance of breaking the part.
> I turn the wheels with the pattern glued to the top for 36 tread groves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I band sawed the treads first I'm not going to route the shape on the corners this would bugger up the treads.
> I will be using the Shop Smith again in drum sander mod to shape the out side edges.
> Here again the SS gets er done with easy.
> Now when I say with easy you have to remember there are 10 wheels and three parts to the tire so that makes 30 parts to be made and shapes and and and.LOL
> I like a fatter tire look for this build that's why I'm rounding the out side of the tires.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to notch the center tire part and we'll use the table saw for this.
> I'm using a feather board to keep the tire centered as I turn the part to make the notch.
> Ps This is a very shallow notch so not afraid to do it this way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm going to have to sand all those groves, want to help???
> 
> That's about all for today but just had to put some tires together and see what different looks can be had with these parts.
> I really like the 4 part tire it gives it a fatter look, wish I had made some extra center parts.
> 
> What do you all think?


Jan I'd rather make tracks then* these stinking wheels* any time.LOL
One thing I will say the Shop smith Is a wheel making monster for sure.
I might just have backed out of making them this complicated if I hadn't had the SS, NO JOKE!!!
A little hint [I'm going 4 in the front and 5 in the back], monster wheels!!!


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Tires day 2.*
> 
> Building wheels and tires is not a one day project, its really one of the biggest part of the build.
> If you've got ugly tires you've got an ugly project, it's strange how much the tires can make or break a project.
> Still in the planing stage right now but can be building the wheel parts till I figure it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that I've got the tires to size it's time to add the tread and like Jan I'll be using the band saw.
> I made a jig from some scrap 3/4 ply wood with a dowel to hold 5 tires at once.
> The dowelwill keep the tires at the right place for the saw and I also am using a stop block to stop the jig at a consistent tread depth.
> Like Jan I drilled a hole for a small dowel to keep the 5 wheels in line. [It is hide behind the center pivot dowel]
> I thought of hot glue or two sided tape but there's a lot of clean up going that way, plus when you take them apart there's the chance of breaking the part.
> I turn the wheels with the pattern glued to the top for 36 tread groves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I band sawed the treads first I'm not going to route the shape on the corners this would bugger up the treads.
> I will be using the Shop Smith again in drum sander mod to shape the out side edges.
> Here again the SS gets er done with easy.
> Now when I say with easy you have to remember there are 10 wheels and three parts to the tire so that makes 30 parts to be made and shapes and and and.LOL
> I like a fatter tire look for this build that's why I'm rounding the out side of the tires.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to notch the center tire part and we'll use the table saw for this.
> I'm using a feather board to keep the tire centered as I turn the part to make the notch.
> Ps This is a very shallow notch so not afraid to do it this way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm going to have to sand all those groves, want to help???
> 
> That's about all for today but just had to put some tires together and see what different looks can be had with these parts.
> I really like the 4 part tire it gives it a fatter look, wish I had made some extra center parts.
> 
> What do you all think?


Patience of a saint Bruce to do all that detailed work….top job sir


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Tires day 2.*
> 
> Building wheels and tires is not a one day project, its really one of the biggest part of the build.
> If you've got ugly tires you've got an ugly project, it's strange how much the tires can make or break a project.
> Still in the planing stage right now but can be building the wheel parts till I figure it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that I've got the tires to size it's time to add the tread and like Jan I'll be using the band saw.
> I made a jig from some scrap 3/4 ply wood with a dowel to hold 5 tires at once.
> The dowelwill keep the tires at the right place for the saw and I also am using a stop block to stop the jig at a consistent tread depth.
> Like Jan I drilled a hole for a small dowel to keep the 5 wheels in line. [It is hide behind the center pivot dowel]
> I thought of hot glue or two sided tape but there's a lot of clean up going that way, plus when you take them apart there's the chance of breaking the part.
> I turn the wheels with the pattern glued to the top for 36 tread groves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I band sawed the treads first I'm not going to route the shape on the corners this would bugger up the treads.
> I will be using the Shop Smith again in drum sander mod to shape the out side edges.
> Here again the SS gets er done with easy.
> Now when I say with easy you have to remember there are 10 wheels and three parts to the tire so that makes 30 parts to be made and shapes and and and.LOL
> I like a fatter tire look for this build that's why I'm rounding the out side of the tires.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to notch the center tire part and we'll use the table saw for this.
> I'm using a feather board to keep the tire centered as I turn the part to make the notch.
> Ps This is a very shallow notch so not afraid to do it this way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm going to have to sand all those groves, want to help???
> 
> That's about all for today but just had to put some tires together and see what different looks can be had with these parts.
> I really like the 4 part tire it gives it a fatter look, wish I had made some extra center parts.
> 
> What do you all think?


Htl and Dutchy, you should combine to make a training video or slideshow for making these truck wheels and "sell" them to T&J. The price of the pre-fab wheels are very cost affective, however, these creations of yours' raise the bar in tyre making.


----------



## htl

*Tires time 3*

I'm still playing with the tires trying out some different ideas.
Here's what I came up with today.
They're a long way from perfect, 
There's quite a learning curve building wheels and come next time they'll be much better.
I like these a lot, may drill the back ones deeper so the centers set deeper but it's getting close.








I had some 1 1/2 tires sitting around waiting for some thing to do so I put them to work to see if they might be the ones.
I used this picture to mark off the five holes, just set the tire over the picture and got the 5 marks.
I tried drilling it free hand and the drill would snake around because I'm drilling at the edge of the tire.
So using that same jig that I used for band sawing the treads, I clamped it to the drill press table so it wouldn't move, set the tire over the dowel and driller the 5 holes, now that's much better.

I believe the Forstner bits will be the best way to go drilling them.
After that I sanded them till they fit the wheel hole.
SS to the rescue.

















One more day rounding the edges and finding the best look then well be making the trans axial and may play with some ideas for springs.
Front tires on the left backs on the right.









Having fun hope all's well with you all.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Tires time 3*
> 
> I'm still playing with the tires trying out some different ideas.
> Here's what I came up with today.
> They're a long way from perfect,
> There's quite a learning curve building wheels and come next time they'll be much better.
> I like these a lot, may drill the back ones deeper so the centers set deeper but it's getting close.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had some 1 1/2 tires sitting around waiting for some thing to do so I put them to work to see if they might be the ones.
> I used this picture to mark off the five holes, just set the tire over the picture and got the 5 marks.
> I tried drilling it free hand and the drill would snake around because I'm drilling at the edge of the tire.
> So using that same jig that I used for band sawing the treads, I clamped it to the drill press table so it wouldn't move, set the tire over the dowel and driller the 5 holes, now that's much better.
> 
> I believe the Forstner bits will be the best way to go drilling them.
> After that I sanded them till they fit the wheel hole.
> SS to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more day rounding the edges and finding the best look then well be making the trans axial and may play with some ideas for springs.
> Front tires on the left backs on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having fun hope all's well with you all.


Those wheels look so good Bruce….well done


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Tires time 3*
> 
> I'm still playing with the tires trying out some different ideas.
> Here's what I came up with today.
> They're a long way from perfect,
> There's quite a learning curve building wheels and come next time they'll be much better.
> I like these a lot, may drill the back ones deeper so the centers set deeper but it's getting close.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had some 1 1/2 tires sitting around waiting for some thing to do so I put them to work to see if they might be the ones.
> I used this picture to mark off the five holes, just set the tire over the picture and got the 5 marks.
> I tried drilling it free hand and the drill would snake around because I'm drilling at the edge of the tire.
> So using that same jig that I used for band sawing the treads, I clamped it to the drill press table so it wouldn't move, set the tire over the dowel and driller the 5 holes, now that's much better.
> 
> I believe the Forstner bits will be the best way to go drilling them.
> After that I sanded them till they fit the wheel hole.
> SS to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more day rounding the edges and finding the best look then well be making the trans axial and may play with some ideas for springs.
> Front tires on the left backs on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having fun hope all's well with you all.


Thank crowie
You got on here so quick you must be looking over my shoulder???


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Tires time 3*
> 
> I'm still playing with the tires trying out some different ideas.
> Here's what I came up with today.
> They're a long way from perfect,
> There's quite a learning curve building wheels and come next time they'll be much better.
> I like these a lot, may drill the back ones deeper so the centers set deeper but it's getting close.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had some 1 1/2 tires sitting around waiting for some thing to do so I put them to work to see if they might be the ones.
> I used this picture to mark off the five holes, just set the tire over the picture and got the 5 marks.
> I tried drilling it free hand and the drill would snake around because I'm drilling at the edge of the tire.
> So using that same jig that I used for band sawing the treads, I clamped it to the drill press table so it wouldn't move, set the tire over the dowel and driller the 5 holes, now that's much better.
> 
> I believe the Forstner bits will be the best way to go drilling them.
> After that I sanded them till they fit the wheel hole.
> SS to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more day rounding the edges and finding the best look then well be making the trans axial and may play with some ideas for springs.
> Front tires on the left backs on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having fun hope all's well with you all.


I'm diggin' the wheels !


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Tires time 3*
> 
> I'm still playing with the tires trying out some different ideas.
> Here's what I came up with today.
> They're a long way from perfect,
> There's quite a learning curve building wheels and come next time they'll be much better.
> I like these a lot, may drill the back ones deeper so the centers set deeper but it's getting close.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had some 1 1/2 tires sitting around waiting for some thing to do so I put them to work to see if they might be the ones.
> I used this picture to mark off the five holes, just set the tire over the picture and got the 5 marks.
> I tried drilling it free hand and the drill would snake around because I'm drilling at the edge of the tire.
> So using that same jig that I used for band sawing the treads, I clamped it to the drill press table so it wouldn't move, set the tire over the dowel and driller the 5 holes, now that's much better.
> 
> I believe the Forstner bits will be the best way to go drilling them.
> After that I sanded them till they fit the wheel hole.
> SS to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more day rounding the edges and finding the best look then well be making the trans axial and may play with some ideas for springs.
> Front tires on the left backs on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having fun hope all's well with you all.


I'm trying Thanks.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Tires time 3*
> 
> I'm still playing with the tires trying out some different ideas.
> Here's what I came up with today.
> They're a long way from perfect,
> There's quite a learning curve building wheels and come next time they'll be much better.
> I like these a lot, may drill the back ones deeper so the centers set deeper but it's getting close.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had some 1 1/2 tires sitting around waiting for some thing to do so I put them to work to see if they might be the ones.
> I used this picture to mark off the five holes, just set the tire over the picture and got the 5 marks.
> I tried drilling it free hand and the drill would snake around because I'm drilling at the edge of the tire.
> So using that same jig that I used for band sawing the treads, I clamped it to the drill press table so it wouldn't move, set the tire over the dowel and driller the 5 holes, now that's much better.
> 
> I believe the Forstner bits will be the best way to go drilling them.
> After that I sanded them till they fit the wheel hole.
> SS to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more day rounding the edges and finding the best look then well be making the trans axial and may play with some ideas for springs.
> Front tires on the left backs on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having fun hope all's well with you all.


This turned out very well. Very nice. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Tires time 3*
> 
> I'm still playing with the tires trying out some different ideas.
> Here's what I came up with today.
> They're a long way from perfect,
> There's quite a learning curve building wheels and come next time they'll be much better.
> I like these a lot, may drill the back ones deeper so the centers set deeper but it's getting close.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had some 1 1/2 tires sitting around waiting for some thing to do so I put them to work to see if they might be the ones.
> I used this picture to mark off the five holes, just set the tire over the picture and got the 5 marks.
> I tried drilling it free hand and the drill would snake around because I'm drilling at the edge of the tire.
> So using that same jig that I used for band sawing the treads, I clamped it to the drill press table so it wouldn't move, set the tire over the dowel and driller the 5 holes, now that's much better.
> 
> I believe the Forstner bits will be the best way to go drilling them.
> After that I sanded them till they fit the wheel hole.
> SS to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more day rounding the edges and finding the best look then well be making the trans axial and may play with some ideas for springs.
> Front tires on the left backs on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having fun hope all's well with you all.





> Thank crowie
> You got on here so quick you must be looking over my shoulder???
> 
> - htl


Morning tea time downunder so openned up the computer and your beaut wheels popped up… 
Just had to give praise were it and when it was due….


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Tires time 3*
> 
> I'm still playing with the tires trying out some different ideas.
> Here's what I came up with today.
> They're a long way from perfect,
> There's quite a learning curve building wheels and come next time they'll be much better.
> I like these a lot, may drill the back ones deeper so the centers set deeper but it's getting close.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had some 1 1/2 tires sitting around waiting for some thing to do so I put them to work to see if they might be the ones.
> I used this picture to mark off the five holes, just set the tire over the picture and got the 5 marks.
> I tried drilling it free hand and the drill would snake around because I'm drilling at the edge of the tire.
> So using that same jig that I used for band sawing the treads, I clamped it to the drill press table so it wouldn't move, set the tire over the dowel and driller the 5 holes, now that's much better.
> 
> I believe the Forstner bits will be the best way to go drilling them.
> After that I sanded them till they fit the wheel hole.
> SS to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more day rounding the edges and finding the best look then well be making the trans axial and may play with some ideas for springs.
> Front tires on the left backs on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having fun hope all's well with you all.


Thanks Jan
Love to search the net and find new to me interesting ways of doing things.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Tires time 3*
> 
> I'm still playing with the tires trying out some different ideas.
> Here's what I came up with today.
> They're a long way from perfect,
> There's quite a learning curve building wheels and come next time they'll be much better.
> I like these a lot, may drill the back ones deeper so the centers set deeper but it's getting close.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had some 1 1/2 tires sitting around waiting for some thing to do so I put them to work to see if they might be the ones.
> I used this picture to mark off the five holes, just set the tire over the picture and got the 5 marks.
> I tried drilling it free hand and the drill would snake around because I'm drilling at the edge of the tire.
> So using that same jig that I used for band sawing the treads, I clamped it to the drill press table so it wouldn't move, set the tire over the dowel and driller the 5 holes, now that's much better.
> 
> I believe the Forstner bits will be the best way to go drilling them.
> After that I sanded them till they fit the wheel hole.
> SS to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more day rounding the edges and finding the best look then well be making the trans axial and may play with some ideas for springs.
> Front tires on the left backs on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having fun hope all's well with you all.


Crowie 
It's funny I had just posted it closed the post then thought I'd better check it and you had already commented.
You didn't even give it time for the ink to dry.


----------



## Dee1

htl said:


> *Tires time 3*
> 
> I'm still playing with the tires trying out some different ideas.
> Here's what I came up with today.
> They're a long way from perfect,
> There's quite a learning curve building wheels and come next time they'll be much better.
> I like these a lot, may drill the back ones deeper so the centers set deeper but it's getting close.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had some 1 1/2 tires sitting around waiting for some thing to do so I put them to work to see if they might be the ones.
> I used this picture to mark off the five holes, just set the tire over the picture and got the 5 marks.
> I tried drilling it free hand and the drill would snake around because I'm drilling at the edge of the tire.
> So using that same jig that I used for band sawing the treads, I clamped it to the drill press table so it wouldn't move, set the tire over the dowel and driller the 5 holes, now that's much better.
> 
> I believe the Forstner bits will be the best way to go drilling them.
> After that I sanded them till they fit the wheel hole.
> SS to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more day rounding the edges and finding the best look then well be making the trans axial and may play with some ideas for springs.
> Front tires on the left backs on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having fun hope all's well with you all.


Hey I really like your wheels looking good keep up your ideas and thoughts.
D


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Tires time 3*
> 
> I'm still playing with the tires trying out some different ideas.
> Here's what I came up with today.
> They're a long way from perfect,
> There's quite a learning curve building wheels and come next time they'll be much better.
> I like these a lot, may drill the back ones deeper so the centers set deeper but it's getting close.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had some 1 1/2 tires sitting around waiting for some thing to do so I put them to work to see if they might be the ones.
> I used this picture to mark off the five holes, just set the tire over the picture and got the 5 marks.
> I tried drilling it free hand and the drill would snake around because I'm drilling at the edge of the tire.
> So using that same jig that I used for band sawing the treads, I clamped it to the drill press table so it wouldn't move, set the tire over the dowel and driller the 5 holes, now that's much better.
> 
> I believe the Forstner bits will be the best way to go drilling them.
> After that I sanded them till they fit the wheel hole.
> SS to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more day rounding the edges and finding the best look then well be making the trans axial and may play with some ideas for springs.
> Front tires on the left backs on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having fun hope all's well with you all.


Bruce, are the centers pre-fab wheels or did you lathe them? If pre-fab what is their, I am presuming T&J, part number? Any chance of a copy of your templates for measurement purposes (and design of course).


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Tires time 3*
> 
> I'm still playing with the tires trying out some different ideas.
> Here's what I came up with today.
> They're a long way from perfect,
> There's quite a learning curve building wheels and come next time they'll be much better.
> I like these a lot, may drill the back ones deeper so the centers set deeper but it's getting close.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had some 1 1/2 tires sitting around waiting for some thing to do so I put them to work to see if they might be the ones.
> I used this picture to mark off the five holes, just set the tire over the picture and got the 5 marks.
> I tried drilling it free hand and the drill would snake around because I'm drilling at the edge of the tire.
> So using that same jig that I used for band sawing the treads, I clamped it to the drill press table so it wouldn't move, set the tire over the dowel and driller the 5 holes, now that's much better.
> 
> I believe the Forstner bits will be the best way to go drilling them.
> After that I sanded them till they fit the wheel hole.
> SS to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more day rounding the edges and finding the best look then well be making the trans axial and may play with some ideas for springs.
> Front tires on the left backs on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having fun hope all's well with you all.


Duck these were 1 1/2 store bought wheels that I sanded down to fit.
I got them at Hobby Lobby which is a craft store in the US.

I just had a bag of them laying around so gave it a try
I now have a lathe so may just may give it a try next time.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Tires time 3*
> 
> I'm still playing with the tires trying out some different ideas.
> Here's what I came up with today.
> They're a long way from perfect,
> There's quite a learning curve building wheels and come next time they'll be much better.
> I like these a lot, may drill the back ones deeper so the centers set deeper but it's getting close.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had some 1 1/2 tires sitting around waiting for some thing to do so I put them to work to see if they might be the ones.
> I used this picture to mark off the five holes, just set the tire over the picture and got the 5 marks.
> I tried drilling it free hand and the drill would snake around because I'm drilling at the edge of the tire.
> So using that same jig that I used for band sawing the treads, I clamped it to the drill press table so it wouldn't move, set the tire over the dowel and driller the 5 holes, now that's much better.
> 
> I believe the Forstner bits will be the best way to go drilling them.
> After that I sanded them till they fit the wheel hole.
> SS to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more day rounding the edges and finding the best look then well be making the trans axial and may play with some ideas for springs.
> Front tires on the left backs on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having fun hope all's well with you all.


Thx, T&J sell 1.5" wheels for 35 cents each. Unless I need to "timber match" it wouldn't be economical to lathe….
Having said that, I thought exactly the same of the 2.5" truck wheels and made a bulk purchase for future/duplicated projects as I always buy the parts kits with the plans, for the first build.

However having seen your's and Dutchy's wheels, while the $1.40/wheel price is great on the pocket (and time), it doesn't compare with the handmade results.

*$%[email protected]#... You guys have just cost me about 40+ extra hours per build.*


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Tires time 3*
> 
> I'm still playing with the tires trying out some different ideas.
> Here's what I came up with today.
> They're a long way from perfect,
> There's quite a learning curve building wheels and come next time they'll be much better.
> I like these a lot, may drill the back ones deeper so the centers set deeper but it's getting close.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had some 1 1/2 tires sitting around waiting for some thing to do so I put them to work to see if they might be the ones.
> I used this picture to mark off the five holes, just set the tire over the picture and got the 5 marks.
> I tried drilling it free hand and the drill would snake around because I'm drilling at the edge of the tire.
> So using that same jig that I used for band sawing the treads, I clamped it to the drill press table so it wouldn't move, set the tire over the dowel and driller the 5 holes, now that's much better.
> 
> I believe the Forstner bits will be the best way to go drilling them.
> After that I sanded them till they fit the wheel hole.
> SS to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more day rounding the edges and finding the best look then well be making the trans axial and may play with some ideas for springs.
> Front tires on the left backs on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having fun hope all's well with you all.


Duck if you didn't mind the treads matching up you could make the wheels I make quite easily.
And this will be what I do on my next build.
Just use the table saw and cut the groves both ways. [table saw gives much cleaner cuts to me]
Once with the round of the wheel then across like we did with the band saw.
I would use a 7 1/4" skill saw blade to get as thin a tread as possible plus I just like using smaller blades.
Just my $.02

PS I just saw your fire truck over at the Drop Box and man it turned out so nice.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Tires time 3*
> 
> I'm still playing with the tires trying out some different ideas.
> Here's what I came up with today.
> They're a long way from perfect,
> There's quite a learning curve building wheels and come next time they'll be much better.
> I like these a lot, may drill the back ones deeper so the centers set deeper but it's getting close.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had some 1 1/2 tires sitting around waiting for some thing to do so I put them to work to see if they might be the ones.
> I used this picture to mark off the five holes, just set the tire over the picture and got the 5 marks.
> I tried drilling it free hand and the drill would snake around because I'm drilling at the edge of the tire.
> So using that same jig that I used for band sawing the treads, I clamped it to the drill press table so it wouldn't move, set the tire over the dowel and driller the 5 holes, now that's much better.
> 
> I believe the Forstner bits will be the best way to go drilling them.
> After that I sanded them till they fit the wheel hole.
> SS to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more day rounding the edges and finding the best look then well be making the trans axial and may play with some ideas for springs.
> Front tires on the left backs on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having fun hope all's well with you all.





> [table saw gives much cleaner cuts to me]


People say I'm psycho (I can read minds), and am one trip to the hardware store ahead of you. 
Thinking alike I bought a 7 1/4" 1.5mm kerf Diablo blade 2 days ago after being inspired by the thin kerf bandsaw cuts..



> ... didn't mind the treads matching up …


Do you mean not matching plans or hard to get matching wheels?

As for the fire truck, I hope you mean Photobucket (as I've only posted SU drawings/models on DropBox)? Thx, but it's nothing significant to what others make *unless* it had the black *"htl/Dutchy"* wheels (and of course exhaust pipes drilled out). Not trying to suck… but I do like your wheels.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Tires time 3*
> 
> I'm still playing with the tires trying out some different ideas.
> Here's what I came up with today.
> They're a long way from perfect,
> There's quite a learning curve building wheels and come next time they'll be much better.
> I like these a lot, may drill the back ones deeper so the centers set deeper but it's getting close.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had some 1 1/2 tires sitting around waiting for some thing to do so I put them to work to see if they might be the ones.
> I used this picture to mark off the five holes, just set the tire over the picture and got the 5 marks.
> I tried drilling it free hand and the drill would snake around because I'm drilling at the edge of the tire.
> So using that same jig that I used for band sawing the treads, I clamped it to the drill press table so it wouldn't move, set the tire over the dowel and driller the 5 holes, now that's much better.
> 
> I believe the Forstner bits will be the best way to go drilling them.
> After that I sanded them till they fit the wheel hole.
> SS to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more day rounding the edges and finding the best look then well be making the trans axial and may play with some ideas for springs.
> Front tires on the left backs on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having fun hope all's well with you all.


" ... didn't mind the treads matching up …

Do you mean not matching plans or hard to get matching wheels?"

The treads will be in line with each other not staggered like Dutchy and I made mine.
When I made mine I was tempted to have the treads in line with each other but ended up staggering them but won't be doing that next time.

Here's my idea.
1 make a round wheel blank with axial hole 3"round by what 2" thick [hight- thickness???]
2 Set table saw up to cut the treads 1/4" deep
3 Roll the side of the wheel on the fence and make the treads.
I used a stop so the tire would stay in one place.
How about making some spacers to move the tire the distance needed each time this would make for more accurate tread thickness with out having to think about it.

4 Make a jig to hold the tires side ways kind a like the one we used on the band saw, but set up for the table saw.
5 Cut treads side ways on the jig.
Note May want to make first treads wider so you'll have room to shape the side of the wheel for even a better look.
You will end up with a nice looking wheel with all the treads in line.
This will look just like what we made but won't take half as much work.

By not having to slice the tires and glue them back up will come out much cleaner.
This is how I will be making my next tires
Just my $.02


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Tires time 3*
> 
> I'm still playing with the tires trying out some different ideas.
> Here's what I came up with today.
> They're a long way from perfect,
> There's quite a learning curve building wheels and come next time they'll be much better.
> I like these a lot, may drill the back ones deeper so the centers set deeper but it's getting close.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had some 1 1/2 tires sitting around waiting for some thing to do so I put them to work to see if they might be the ones.
> I used this picture to mark off the five holes, just set the tire over the picture and got the 5 marks.
> I tried drilling it free hand and the drill would snake around because I'm drilling at the edge of the tire.
> So using that same jig that I used for band sawing the treads, I clamped it to the drill press table so it wouldn't move, set the tire over the dowel and driller the 5 holes, now that's much better.
> 
> I believe the Forstner bits will be the best way to go drilling them.
> After that I sanded them till they fit the wheel hole.
> SS to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more day rounding the edges and finding the best look then well be making the trans axial and may play with some ideas for springs.
> Front tires on the left backs on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having fun hope all's well with you all.


LittleBlackDuck for some reason I'm not getting notified when there are comments made so please ether comment in my latest post or leave a notice so I will find your posts.
I just happened to look back and found them.
Thanks and have really enjoyed your comments.


----------



## htl

*Wheels at last finito!!!*

Finally I will quit adding to these wheels *I THINK*.

The black wheel at the top is made from all the left over and buggered up parts.
It's been a great test bed for adding the next part as I feel my way though this.
I have stained it dark to see what that looks like then sanded off the side for the white wall look, so check them out and tell me which way you like.









Here's the way I started out would have had a dark rim and then some bolts but then I went the other way and never looked back.
The center would have been lower.



























Shots of the lag bolt build.
First I marked then set the drill hole so the bit wouldn't drift.
Then drilled with the smallest bit I had again to stop the drift.
Then bigger bit to drill the holes deep enough for the tooth picks.
The round one was my test part.
Using that simple jig to drill the parts.
Through all this I never did say what wood this was, Cherry.




























That's all folks!


----------



## Dee1

htl said:


> *Wheels at last finito!!!*
> 
> Finally I will quit adding to these wheels *I THINK*.
> 
> The black wheel at the top is made from all the left over and buggered up parts.
> It's been a great test bed for adding the next part as I feel my way though this.
> I have stained it dark to see what that looks like then sanded off the side for the white wall look, so check them out and tell me which way you like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the way I started out would have had a dark rim and then some bolts but then I went the other way and never looked back.
> The center would have been lower.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shots of the lag bolt build.
> First I marked then set the drill hole so the bit wouldn't drift.
> Then drilled with the smallest bit I had again to stop the drift.
> Then bigger bit to drill the holes deep enough for the tooth picks.
> The round one was my test part.
> Using that simple jig to drill the parts.
> Through all this I never did say what wood this was, Cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks!


Great looking bolt circle great looking wheels 
Good job 
Dee


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Wheels at last finito!!!*
> 
> Finally I will quit adding to these wheels *I THINK*.
> 
> The black wheel at the top is made from all the left over and buggered up parts.
> It's been a great test bed for adding the next part as I feel my way though this.
> I have stained it dark to see what that looks like then sanded off the side for the white wall look, so check them out and tell me which way you like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the way I started out would have had a dark rim and then some bolts but then I went the other way and never looked back.
> The center would have been lower.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shots of the lag bolt build.
> First I marked then set the drill hole so the bit wouldn't drift.
> Then drilled with the smallest bit I had again to stop the drift.
> Then bigger bit to drill the holes deep enough for the tooth picks.
> The round one was my test part.
> Using that simple jig to drill the parts.
> Through all this I never did say what wood this was, Cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks!


I like the wheels, but white-walls on a rig like this???

NAH !


----------



## bushmaster

htl said:


> *Wheels at last finito!!!*
> 
> Finally I will quit adding to these wheels *I THINK*.
> 
> The black wheel at the top is made from all the left over and buggered up parts.
> It's been a great test bed for adding the next part as I feel my way though this.
> I have stained it dark to see what that looks like then sanded off the side for the white wall look, so check them out and tell me which way you like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the way I started out would have had a dark rim and then some bolts but then I went the other way and never looked back.
> The center would have been lower.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shots of the lag bolt build.
> First I marked then set the drill hole so the bit wouldn't drift.
> Then drilled with the smallest bit I had again to stop the drift.
> Then bigger bit to drill the holes deep enough for the tooth picks.
> The round one was my test part.
> Using that simple jig to drill the parts.
> Through all this I never did say what wood this was, Cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks!


You have done a great job and service for many of us. I like the dark stained to rim.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Wheels at last finito!!!*
> 
> Finally I will quit adding to these wheels *I THINK*.
> 
> The black wheel at the top is made from all the left over and buggered up parts.
> It's been a great test bed for adding the next part as I feel my way though this.
> I have stained it dark to see what that looks like then sanded off the side for the white wall look, so check them out and tell me which way you like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the way I started out would have had a dark rim and then some bolts but then I went the other way and never looked back.
> The center would have been lower.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shots of the lag bolt build.
> First I marked then set the drill hole so the bit wouldn't drift.
> Then drilled with the smallest bit I had again to stop the drift.
> Then bigger bit to drill the holes deep enough for the tooth picks.
> The round one was my test part.
> Using that simple jig to drill the parts.
> Through all this I never did say what wood this was, Cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks!


Thanks Dee!
Joe I'm not into the white walls either but would look cool on some of them old cars or trucks being built.
I would have rounded the side wall a little for that.
Bushmaster I'm with you on that,I do like the looks of the black rim too.

I was just trying a bunch a different things,and now have a better idea of what can be done.
I won't do any thing more to the wheels till I figure out how the truck wants them.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Wheels at last finito!!!*
> 
> Finally I will quit adding to these wheels *I THINK*.
> 
> The black wheel at the top is made from all the left over and buggered up parts.
> It's been a great test bed for adding the next part as I feel my way though this.
> I have stained it dark to see what that looks like then sanded off the side for the white wall look, so check them out and tell me which way you like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the way I started out would have had a dark rim and then some bolts but then I went the other way and never looked back.
> The center would have been lower.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shots of the lag bolt build.
> First I marked then set the drill hole so the bit wouldn't drift.
> Then drilled with the smallest bit I had again to stop the drift.
> Then bigger bit to drill the holes deep enough for the tooth picks.
> The round one was my test part.
> Using that simple jig to drill the parts.
> Through all this I never did say what wood this was, Cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks!


To me it is a useful hint for other type of wheels, but I wouldn't use the white side for this kind of wheel.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Wheels at last finito!!!*
> 
> Finally I will quit adding to these wheels *I THINK*.
> 
> The black wheel at the top is made from all the left over and buggered up parts.
> It's been a great test bed for adding the next part as I feel my way though this.
> I have stained it dark to see what that looks like then sanded off the side for the white wall look, so check them out and tell me which way you like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the way I started out would have had a dark rim and then some bolts but then I went the other way and never looked back.
> The center would have been lower.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shots of the lag bolt build.
> First I marked then set the drill hole so the bit wouldn't drift.
> Then drilled with the smallest bit I had again to stop the drift.
> Then bigger bit to drill the holes deep enough for the tooth picks.
> The round one was my test part.
> Using that simple jig to drill the parts.
> Through all this I never did say what wood this was, Cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks!


If and when I make tires again I will be making a jig to gang up the tires tread slices, dowel them together so they don't move and cut the groves on the table saw.
The table saw gives a much cleaner cut and I will have more control.
I say this having made treads for the excavator, the jig made it fast and much easier.
A lot of this could be my 12" band saw and blade, and as I have said earlier this has been my first real time making nice to me tires so had a lot to learn.
The main problem I was having is I didn't use a consistent thickness of my lumber. [3 different thicknesses]
I had it in my head that the ends needed to be thicker than the middle treads and this caused me a lot a trouble down near the end.
My thinking now is that the thickness stays the same and you get the look by shaping one side or the other or both for the treads.
But there again a lot depends on the look your after.
I used no plans for these wheels just some short how tos for ideas and* it was fun but a lot more work *than I would have thought.
These are the ramblings of a crazy would be tire maker. lol

Ps One more thought just hit me, keeping the shaping to one side will keep the seam from being down the middle of the tread groove.
It's logical now but hind sight is always 20-20


----------



## Northwest29

htl said:


> *Wheels at last finito!!!*
> 
> Finally I will quit adding to these wheels *I THINK*.
> 
> The black wheel at the top is made from all the left over and buggered up parts.
> It's been a great test bed for adding the next part as I feel my way though this.
> I have stained it dark to see what that looks like then sanded off the side for the white wall look, so check them out and tell me which way you like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the way I started out would have had a dark rim and then some bolts but then I went the other way and never looked back.
> The center would have been lower.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shots of the lag bolt build.
> First I marked then set the drill hole so the bit wouldn't drift.
> Then drilled with the smallest bit I had again to stop the drift.
> Then bigger bit to drill the holes deep enough for the tooth picks.
> The round one was my test part.
> Using that simple jig to drill the parts.
> Through all this I never did say what wood this was, Cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks!


They look good - wow that's a lot of holes to drill.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Wheels at last finito!!!*
> 
> Finally I will quit adding to these wheels *I THINK*.
> 
> The black wheel at the top is made from all the left over and buggered up parts.
> It's been a great test bed for adding the next part as I feel my way though this.
> I have stained it dark to see what that looks like then sanded off the side for the white wall look, so check them out and tell me which way you like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the way I started out would have had a dark rim and then some bolts but then I went the other way and never looked back.
> The center would have been lower.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shots of the lag bolt build.
> First I marked then set the drill hole so the bit wouldn't drift.
> Then drilled with the smallest bit I had again to stop the drift.
> Then bigger bit to drill the holes deep enough for the tooth picks.
> The round one was my test part.
> Using that simple jig to drill the parts.
> Through all this I never did say what wood this was, Cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks!


Northwest
To *GET ER DONE* you got to cut some wood and drill some holes and a little glue wouldn't hurt me thinks.
Dutchy 
Your right on these rims the white wall just doesn't get it but on some big thick spoker, can you say cool!!!
And just the other day we got that great spoke making jig how to on here


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Wheels at last finito!!!*
> 
> Finally I will quit adding to these wheels *I THINK*.
> 
> The black wheel at the top is made from all the left over and buggered up parts.
> It's been a great test bed for adding the next part as I feel my way though this.
> I have stained it dark to see what that looks like then sanded off the side for the white wall look, so check them out and tell me which way you like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the way I started out would have had a dark rim and then some bolts but then I went the other way and never looked back.
> The center would have been lower.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shots of the lag bolt build.
> First I marked then set the drill hole so the bit wouldn't drift.
> Then drilled with the smallest bit I had again to stop the drift.
> Then bigger bit to drill the holes deep enough for the tooth picks.
> The round one was my test part.
> Using that simple jig to drill the parts.
> Through all this I never did say what wood this was, Cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks!


Some of you may find this interesting.
For planing your own wheels cones and much more.
http://www.blocklayer.com/hub-spokes.aspx

http://www.blocklayer.com/cone-patterns.aspx


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Wheels at last finito!!!*
> 
> Finally I will quit adding to these wheels *I THINK*.
> 
> The black wheel at the top is made from all the left over and buggered up parts.
> It's been a great test bed for adding the next part as I feel my way though this.
> I have stained it dark to see what that looks like then sanded off the side for the white wall look, so check them out and tell me which way you like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the way I started out would have had a dark rim and then some bolts but then I went the other way and never looked back.
> The center would have been lower.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shots of the lag bolt build.
> First I marked then set the drill hole so the bit wouldn't drift.
> Then drilled with the smallest bit I had again to stop the drift.
> Then bigger bit to drill the holes deep enough for the tooth picks.
> The round one was my test part.
> Using that simple jig to drill the parts.
> Through all this I never did say what wood this was, Cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks!


And here's one very interesting.

http://www.blocklayer.com/scale-fixer.aspx


----------



## Dee1

htl said:


> *Wheels at last finito!!!*
> 
> Finally I will quit adding to these wheels *I THINK*.
> 
> The black wheel at the top is made from all the left over and buggered up parts.
> It's been a great test bed for adding the next part as I feel my way though this.
> I have stained it dark to see what that looks like then sanded off the side for the white wall look, so check them out and tell me which way you like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the way I started out would have had a dark rim and then some bolts but then I went the other way and never looked back.
> The center would have been lower.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shots of the lag bolt build.
> First I marked then set the drill hole so the bit wouldn't drift.
> Then drilled with the smallest bit I had again to stop the drift.
> Then bigger bit to drill the holes deep enough for the tooth picks.
> The round one was my test part.
> Using that simple jig to drill the parts.
> Through all this I never did say what wood this was, Cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks!


htl thank you for that block layer spoke thing I bet I will use that , providing of course I remember where I put it?
now today it is fresh in my mind so no issue tomorrow maybe not so much.
Dee


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Wheels at last finito!!!*
> 
> Finally I will quit adding to these wheels *I THINK*.
> 
> The black wheel at the top is made from all the left over and buggered up parts.
> It's been a great test bed for adding the next part as I feel my way though this.
> I have stained it dark to see what that looks like then sanded off the side for the white wall look, so check them out and tell me which way you like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the way I started out would have had a dark rim and then some bolts but then I went the other way and never looked back.
> The center would have been lower.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shots of the lag bolt build.
> First I marked then set the drill hole so the bit wouldn't drift.
> Then drilled with the smallest bit I had again to stop the drift.
> Then bigger bit to drill the holes deep enough for the tooth picks.
> The round one was my test part.
> Using that simple jig to drill the parts.
> Through all this I never did say what wood this was, Cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks!


Dee1 add it to your favorites page and when you need it just think of wheels and LJ.


----------



## htl

*Mack axles*

It's time to build the axles so the tires will have some where to go, then springs.
Used the Shop Smith to drill out the square axles 1/2"so 1/4" dowels will be used.








With parts this small had to use clamps to keep every thing square and in line but with full size lumber the fence and miter gauge would have done the job.








Build the differential and checking out the drive shaft, much of it is just set in place to figure out the next step, making the pivet for the rear wheel Assembly.
I spent most of the day making curved springs but not to happy with them so we'll have to look in to this some more.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Mack axles*
> 
> It's time to build the axles so the tires will have some where to go, then springs.
> Used the Shop Smith to drill out the square axles 1/2"so 1/4" dowels will be used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With parts this small had to use clamps to keep every thing square and in line but with full size lumber the fence and miter gauge would have done the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build the differential and checking out the drive shaft, much of it is just set in place to figure out the next step, making the pivet for the rear wheel Assembly.
> I spent most of the day making curved springs but not to happy with them so we'll have to look in to this some more.


That looks amazing good Bruce….well done indeed.

Please what is the "Used the SS to drill out the square axles"?
I've used my drill press with a engineers vee block clamping the timber in place….


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Mack axles*
> 
> It's time to build the axles so the tires will have some where to go, then springs.
> Used the Shop Smith to drill out the square axles 1/2"so 1/4" dowels will be used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With parts this small had to use clamps to keep every thing square and in line but with full size lumber the fence and miter gauge would have done the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build the differential and checking out the drive shaft, much of it is just set in place to figure out the next step, making the pivet for the rear wheel Assembly.
> I spent most of the day making curved springs but not to happy with them so we'll have to look in to this some more.


I knew I should have spelled it out Shop Smith, LOL
I used a square block of wood to clamp the axle to and have a small chunk of wood behind it so I don't drill the fence.
I drilled them all the way through and it came out just right.
While I was at it I made extras for my next truck.
Hey once it's set up might as will get er done .
And thanks crowie for checking it out.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Mack axles*
> 
> It's time to build the axles so the tires will have some where to go, then springs.
> Used the Shop Smith to drill out the square axles 1/2"so 1/4" dowels will be used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With parts this small had to use clamps to keep every thing square and in line but with full size lumber the fence and miter gauge would have done the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build the differential and checking out the drive shaft, much of it is just set in place to figure out the next step, making the pivet for the rear wheel Assembly.
> I spent most of the day making curved springs but not to happy with them so we'll have to look in to this some more.





> I knew I should have spelled it out Shop Smith, LOL
> I used a square block of wood to clamp the axle to and have a small chunk of wood behind it so I don t drill the fence.
> I drilled them all the way through and it came out just right.
> While I was at it I made extras for my next truck.
> Hey once it s set up might as will get er done .
> And thanks crowie for checking it out.
> 
> - htl


THANK YOU


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Mack axles*
> 
> It's time to build the axles so the tires will have some where to go, then springs.
> Used the Shop Smith to drill out the square axles 1/2"so 1/4" dowels will be used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With parts this small had to use clamps to keep every thing square and in line but with full size lumber the fence and miter gauge would have done the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build the differential and checking out the drive shaft, much of it is just set in place to figure out the next step, making the pivet for the rear wheel Assembly.
> I spent most of the day making curved springs but not to happy with them so we'll have to look in to this some more.


Hey Crowie,,
Dutchy says they don't have Shop Smiths over there do they sell them down under. ???
I never had thought about them being sold or not sold any where else.
Shipping would be a killer for them.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Mack axles*
> 
> It's time to build the axles so the tires will have some where to go, then springs.
> Used the Shop Smith to drill out the square axles 1/2"so 1/4" dowels will be used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With parts this small had to use clamps to keep every thing square and in line but with full size lumber the fence and miter gauge would have done the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build the differential and checking out the drive shaft, much of it is just set in place to figure out the next step, making the pivet for the rear wheel Assembly.
> I spent most of the day making curved springs but not to happy with them so we'll have to look in to this some more.


I like it all especially the ….........(there we go again).....................................tyres


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Mack axles*
> 
> It's time to build the axles so the tires will have some where to go, then springs.
> Used the Shop Smith to drill out the square axles 1/2"so 1/4" dowels will be used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With parts this small had to use clamps to keep every thing square and in line but with full size lumber the fence and miter gauge would have done the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build the differential and checking out the drive shaft, much of it is just set in place to figure out the next step, making the pivet for the rear wheel Assembly.
> I spent most of the day making curved springs but not to happy with them so we'll have to look in to this some more.


They're wheels to me Jan. lol
I love this style wheel but want to try some of those off road one's with the deep deep treads.
Dutchy how do you type or spell these words in Dutch?
*Tire* rubber part 
*rim* metal part 
whole thing *wheel*


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Mack axles*
> 
> It's time to build the axles so the tires will have some where to go, then springs.
> Used the Shop Smith to drill out the square axles 1/2"so 1/4" dowels will be used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With parts this small had to use clamps to keep every thing square and in line but with full size lumber the fence and miter gauge would have done the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build the differential and checking out the drive shaft, much of it is just set in place to figure out the next step, making the pivet for the rear wheel Assembly.
> I spent most of the day making curved springs but not to happy with them so we'll have to look in to this some more.





> I like it all especially the ….........(there we go again).....................................tyres
> 
> - Dutchy


Made me chuckle !


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Mack axles*
> 
> It's time to build the axles so the tires will have some where to go, then springs.
> Used the Shop Smith to drill out the square axles 1/2"so 1/4" dowels will be used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With parts this small had to use clamps to keep every thing square and in line but with full size lumber the fence and miter gauge would have done the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build the differential and checking out the drive shaft, much of it is just set in place to figure out the next step, making the pivet for the rear wheel Assembly.
> I spent most of the day making curved springs but not to happy with them so we'll have to look in to this some more.





> Dutchy how do you type or spell these words in Dutch?
> *Tire* rubber part
> *rim* metal part
> whole thing *wheel*
> 
> - htl


*Tire*, rubber part …........................*band*, rubber gedeelte

*rim*, metal part …..........................*velg* metalen deel

whole thing *wheel*........................ het volledige ding *wiel*


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Mack axles*
> 
> It's time to build the axles so the tires will have some where to go, then springs.
> Used the Shop Smith to drill out the square axles 1/2"so 1/4" dowels will be used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With parts this small had to use clamps to keep every thing square and in line but with full size lumber the fence and miter gauge would have done the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build the differential and checking out the drive shaft, much of it is just set in place to figure out the next step, making the pivet for the rear wheel Assembly.
> I spent most of the day making curved springs but not to happy with them so we'll have to look in to this some more.





> Hey Crowie,,
> Dutchy says they don t have Shop Smiths over there do they sell them down under. ???
> I never had thought about them being sold or not sold any where else.
> Shipping would be a killer for them.
> 
> - htl


I'd not heard of Shop Smiths until I started viewing woodwork in the USA & Canada.

Yes Bruce, freight costs from the USA to Australia are awfully high even for smaller light weight items…

It's a crying shame as *the range, quality and the pricing is way better in the USA* then here; sometimes as much as 75% cheaper in the USA than in Australia [generally 40-60% cheaper]....

PS - TYRE is our spelling of the black round rubber donut that going on a wheel rim!!!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Mack axles*
> 
> It's time to build the axles so the tires will have some where to go, then springs.
> Used the Shop Smith to drill out the square axles 1/2"so 1/4" dowels will be used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With parts this small had to use clamps to keep every thing square and in line but with full size lumber the fence and miter gauge would have done the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build the differential and checking out the drive shaft, much of it is just set in place to figure out the next step, making the pivet for the rear wheel Assembly.
> I spent most of the day making curved springs but not to happy with them so we'll have to look in to this some more.


I'm beginning to think of tires and tyres like I do inchs and centimeters. lol
Hey they both work just use'm and get er done.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Mack axles*
> 
> It's time to build the axles so the tires will have some where to go, then springs.
> Used the Shop Smith to drill out the square axles 1/2"so 1/4" dowels will be used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With parts this small had to use clamps to keep every thing square and in line but with full size lumber the fence and miter gauge would have done the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build the differential and checking out the drive shaft, much of it is just set in place to figure out the next step, making the pivet for the rear wheel Assembly.
> I spent most of the day making curved springs but not to happy with them so we'll have to look in to this some more.





> I m beginning to think of tires and tyres like I do inchs and centimeters. lol
> Hey they both work just use m and get er done.
> 
> - htl


I grew up with imperial and did my engineering training in the Navy with imperial but metric had come in so I've learnt both; millimetres and 1/16" all good…one comment, if the plan is metric you must use "mm" in your measurements and the same for plans in imperial YOU MUCH USE INCHES AND FRACTIONS.

TYRES ARE ANOTHER ISSUE ALL TOGETHER….


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Mack axles*
> 
> It's time to build the axles so the tires will have some where to go, then springs.
> Used the Shop Smith to drill out the square axles 1/2"so 1/4" dowels will be used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With parts this small had to use clamps to keep every thing square and in line but with full size lumber the fence and miter gauge would have done the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build the differential and checking out the drive shaft, much of it is just set in place to figure out the next step, making the pivet for the rear wheel Assembly.
> I spent most of the day making curved springs but not to happy with them so we'll have to look in to this some more.


Crowie foot and inchs has always been my lot in the US but as I build these models and need to find the center of some thing meters comes in really handy.
It's taking me awhile but meters is growing on my.


----------



## Reawood18

htl said:


> *Mack axles*
> 
> It's time to build the axles so the tires will have some where to go, then springs.
> Used the Shop Smith to drill out the square axles 1/2"so 1/4" dowels will be used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With parts this small had to use clamps to keep every thing square and in line but with full size lumber the fence and miter gauge would have done the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build the differential and checking out the drive shaft, much of it is just set in place to figure out the next step, making the pivet for the rear wheel Assembly.
> I spent most of the day making curved springs but not to happy with them so we'll have to look in to this some more.


Very helpful set of blogs 
Thankyou
Peter


----------



## htl

*Building the body and motor*

Got started on the motor and body today so here we go.
I may go back to the full diesel truck body and save this body for another project but we'll see.
No matter here's a how to on doweling.
The body is going to flip up so need a motor.


















Started cutting out the body and then sanding the windows.
I've been using a file and metal straight edge to get my windows looking right.

My saw is just barely holding on, I'm surprised it got these parts cut.
That Raccoon just about killed it.



































I like to use dowels to hold my projects together as I build, this keeps every thing lined up and I don't have to glue it all up so fast can leave it loose to be able to change thing as I go along.
So here's a step by step.

Using my Dowel Crafter jig.
I could have used my Shop Smith in horizontal drill press mod just as easy but forgot about it at the time.






























































Now when I get ready to glue every thing up I don't need to worry about the parts moving while gluing and adding clamps, every thing stays put.









Here's some body shots.









Will need to cut out the back, the motor is half way in the cabin.


















That's all folks.


----------



## chief101

htl said:


> *Building the body and motor*
> 
> Got started on the motor and body today so here we go.
> I may go back to the full diesel truck body and save this body for another project but we'll see.
> No matter here's a how to on doweling.
> The body is going to flip up so need a motor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Started cutting out the body and then sanding the windows.
> I've been using a file and metal straight edge to get my windows looking right.
> 
> My saw is just barely holding on, I'm surprised it got these parts cut.
> That Raccoon just about killed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to use dowels to hold my projects together as I build, this keeps every thing lined up and I don't have to glue it all up so fast can leave it loose to be able to change thing as I go along.
> So here's a step by step.
> 
> Using my Dowel Crafter jig.
> I could have used my Shop Smith in horizontal drill press mod just as easy but forgot about it at the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now when I get ready to glue every thing up I don't need to worry about the parts moving while gluing and adding clamps, every thing stays put.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's some body shots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will need to cut out the back, the motor is half way in the cabin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks.


Pretty awesome. Waiting for the next step.


----------



## hookfoot

htl said:


> *Building the body and motor*
> 
> Got started on the motor and body today so here we go.
> I may go back to the full diesel truck body and save this body for another project but we'll see.
> No matter here's a how to on doweling.
> The body is going to flip up so need a motor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Started cutting out the body and then sanding the windows.
> I've been using a file and metal straight edge to get my windows looking right.
> 
> My saw is just barely holding on, I'm surprised it got these parts cut.
> That Raccoon just about killed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to use dowels to hold my projects together as I build, this keeps every thing lined up and I don't have to glue it all up so fast can leave it loose to be able to change thing as I go along.
> So here's a step by step.
> 
> Using my Dowel Crafter jig.
> I could have used my Shop Smith in horizontal drill press mod just as easy but forgot about it at the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now when I get ready to glue every thing up I don't need to worry about the parts moving while gluing and adding clamps, every thing stays put.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's some body shots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will need to cut out the back, the motor is half way in the cabin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks.


Looks good.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Building the body and motor*
> 
> Got started on the motor and body today so here we go.
> I may go back to the full diesel truck body and save this body for another project but we'll see.
> No matter here's a how to on doweling.
> The body is going to flip up so need a motor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Started cutting out the body and then sanding the windows.
> I've been using a file and metal straight edge to get my windows looking right.
> 
> My saw is just barely holding on, I'm surprised it got these parts cut.
> That Raccoon just about killed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to use dowels to hold my projects together as I build, this keeps every thing lined up and I don't have to glue it all up so fast can leave it loose to be able to change thing as I go along.
> So here's a step by step.
> 
> Using my Dowel Crafter jig.
> I could have used my Shop Smith in horizontal drill press mod just as easy but forgot about it at the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now when I get ready to glue every thing up I don't need to worry about the parts moving while gluing and adding clamps, every thing stays put.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's some body shots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will need to cut out the back, the motor is half way in the cabin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks.


Dale this is hot of the press so give me a day. LOL


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Building the body and motor*
> 
> Got started on the motor and body today so here we go.
> I may go back to the full diesel truck body and save this body for another project but we'll see.
> No matter here's a how to on doweling.
> The body is going to flip up so need a motor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Started cutting out the body and then sanding the windows.
> I've been using a file and metal straight edge to get my windows looking right.
> 
> My saw is just barely holding on, I'm surprised it got these parts cut.
> That Raccoon just about killed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to use dowels to hold my projects together as I build, this keeps every thing lined up and I don't have to glue it all up so fast can leave it loose to be able to change thing as I go along.
> So here's a step by step.
> 
> Using my Dowel Crafter jig.
> I could have used my Shop Smith in horizontal drill press mod just as easy but forgot about it at the time.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now when I get ready to glue every thing up I don't need to worry about the parts moving while gluing and adding clamps, every thing stays put.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's some body shots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will need to cut out the back, the motor is half way in the cabin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks.


Hope that metal straight edge is not a ruler… If I used that technique (which by the way I like) I might as well draw my next ruled line freehand.
Also like your idea of dowels, however, I would like a very accurate depth stop.. Some of the "major parts'" thicknesses in some models are only 3/16" (nearly the length of the pilot tip). Will have to incorporate this concept in my next build but downsize to 4mm dowels.
BTW. Wheels (tires) look "bloodi" good.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Building the body and motor*
> 
> Got started on the motor and body today so here we go.
> I may go back to the full diesel truck body and save this body for another project but we'll see.
> No matter here's a how to on doweling.
> The body is going to flip up so need a motor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Started cutting out the body and then sanding the windows.
> I've been using a file and metal straight edge to get my windows looking right.
> 
> My saw is just barely holding on, I'm surprised it got these parts cut.
> That Raccoon just about killed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to use dowels to hold my projects together as I build, this keeps every thing lined up and I don't have to glue it all up so fast can leave it loose to be able to change thing as I go along.
> So here's a step by step.
> 
> Using my Dowel Crafter jig.
> I could have used my Shop Smith in horizontal drill press mod just as easy but forgot about it at the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now when I get ready to glue every thing up I don't need to worry about the parts moving while gluing and adding clamps, every thing stays put.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's some body shots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will need to cut out the back, the motor is half way in the cabin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks.


Duck the shop smith has one out standing depth stop.
The ruler is an old cork backed ruler that the prints gone, I use it for that, I'm not going out to buy when I have something in house that works just fine.
Also I don't build by the rules I make things for me and build to my specks not theirs.
I must say I really have enjoyed using the T&J plans really takes the work out of it and makes it easier and much more fun.
I guess I'm coming from the building of wood toys so don't have a problem with using thicker wood.

Really I'm a beginner coming in to it from a house cabinet and furniture building back ground.
I've thought about using some tooth pick dowels and use brad nails as the dowel guide.
Could use the tooth pick and just drill the hole on though and make them look like rivets, now wouldn't that look cool on some parts.

Thanks Duck for the comments they made me look at why I do things the way I do, which may look crazy to others but seem to work till I can learn something better. lol


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Building the body and motor*
> 
> Got started on the motor and body today so here we go.
> I may go back to the full diesel truck body and save this body for another project but we'll see.
> No matter here's a how to on doweling.
> The body is going to flip up so need a motor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Started cutting out the body and then sanding the windows.
> I've been using a file and metal straight edge to get my windows looking right.
> 
> My saw is just barely holding on, I'm surprised it got these parts cut.
> That Raccoon just about killed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to use dowels to hold my projects together as I build, this keeps every thing lined up and I don't have to glue it all up so fast can leave it loose to be able to change thing as I go along.
> So here's a step by step.
> 
> Using my Dowel Crafter jig.
> I could have used my Shop Smith in horizontal drill press mod just as easy but forgot about it at the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now when I get ready to glue every thing up I don't need to worry about the parts moving while gluing and adding clamps, every thing stays put.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's some body shots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will need to cut out the back, the motor is half way in the cabin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks.


Duck on the shopsmith you can put the drill bit where you want it set the dial to 0 tighten it up and your ready to drill to that depth, it works really sweet.
Here's the dial but not in drill mod in the picture.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Building the body and motor*
> 
> Got started on the motor and body today so here we go.
> I may go back to the full diesel truck body and save this body for another project but we'll see.
> No matter here's a how to on doweling.
> The body is going to flip up so need a motor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Started cutting out the body and then sanding the windows.
> I've been using a file and metal straight edge to get my windows looking right.
> 
> My saw is just barely holding on, I'm surprised it got these parts cut.
> That Raccoon just about killed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to use dowels to hold my projects together as I build, this keeps every thing lined up and I don't have to glue it all up so fast can leave it loose to be able to change thing as I go along.
> So here's a step by step.
> 
> Using my Dowel Crafter jig.
> I could have used my Shop Smith in horizontal drill press mod just as easy but forgot about it at the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now when I get ready to glue every thing up I don't need to worry about the parts moving while gluing and adding clamps, every thing stays put.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's some body shots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will need to cut out the back, the motor is half way in the cabin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks.


I do like your approach. I strictly stick to T&J dimensions so I don't have to adjust length for changes in thickness (just call me lazy). Just gaging about the ruler, though I use the same concept with a chisel but think rasp is less prone to mistakes (not to mention probably quicker). Ok I'll mention it… It's probably quicker..


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Building the body and motor*
> 
> Got started on the motor and body today so here we go.
> I may go back to the full diesel truck body and save this body for another project but we'll see.
> No matter here's a how to on doweling.
> The body is going to flip up so need a motor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Started cutting out the body and then sanding the windows.
> I've been using a file and metal straight edge to get my windows looking right.
> 
> My saw is just barely holding on, I'm surprised it got these parts cut.
> That Raccoon just about killed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to use dowels to hold my projects together as I build, this keeps every thing lined up and I don't have to glue it all up so fast can leave it loose to be able to change thing as I go along.
> So here's a step by step.
> 
> Using my Dowel Crafter jig.
> I could have used my Shop Smith in horizontal drill press mod just as easy but forgot about it at the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now when I get ready to glue every thing up I don't need to worry about the parts moving while gluing and adding clamps, every thing stays put.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's some body shots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will need to cut out the back, the motor is half way in the cabin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks.


Am also envious of the SS…


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Building the body and motor*
> 
> Got started on the motor and body today so here we go.
> I may go back to the full diesel truck body and save this body for another project but we'll see.
> No matter here's a how to on doweling.
> The body is going to flip up so need a motor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Started cutting out the body and then sanding the windows.
> I've been using a file and metal straight edge to get my windows looking right.
> 
> My saw is just barely holding on, I'm surprised it got these parts cut.
> That Raccoon just about killed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to use dowels to hold my projects together as I build, this keeps every thing lined up and I don't have to glue it all up so fast can leave it loose to be able to change thing as I go along.
> So here's a step by step.
> 
> Using my Dowel Crafter jig.
> I could have used my Shop Smith in horizontal drill press mod just as easy but forgot about it at the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now when I get ready to glue every thing up I don't need to worry about the parts moving while gluing and adding clamps, every thing stays put.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's some body shots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will need to cut out the back, the motor is half way in the cabin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks.


It's a shame they can't be had over there, they are a ball to work with.
It doesn't really matter how we ger er done just so we do. lol


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Building the body and motor*
> 
> Got started on the motor and body today so here we go.
> I may go back to the full diesel truck body and save this body for another project but we'll see.
> No matter here's a how to on doweling.
> The body is going to flip up so need a motor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Started cutting out the body and then sanding the windows.
> I've been using a file and metal straight edge to get my windows looking right.
> 
> My saw is just barely holding on, I'm surprised it got these parts cut.
> That Raccoon just about killed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to use dowels to hold my projects together as I build, this keeps every thing lined up and I don't have to glue it all up so fast can leave it loose to be able to change thing as I go along.
> So here's a step by step.
> 
> Using my Dowel Crafter jig.
> I could have used my Shop Smith in horizontal drill press mod just as easy but forgot about it at the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now when I get ready to glue every thing up I don't need to worry about the parts moving while gluing and adding clamps, every thing stays put.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's some body shots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will need to cut out the back, the motor is half way in the cabin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks.


Man those tires (tyres?) came out GREAT !

I used the doweling method for lining up glue joints years ago when I built a desk (long since gone) and it really did work. I haven't built too many larger items in quite a while. And on thinner work I'm always afraid I'll drill thru.

Lookin' good so far !


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Building the body and motor*
> 
> Got started on the motor and body today so here we go.
> I may go back to the full diesel truck body and save this body for another project but we'll see.
> No matter here's a how to on doweling.
> The body is going to flip up so need a motor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Started cutting out the body and then sanding the windows.
> I've been using a file and metal straight edge to get my windows looking right.
> 
> My saw is just barely holding on, I'm surprised it got these parts cut.
> That Raccoon just about killed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to use dowels to hold my projects together as I build, this keeps every thing lined up and I don't have to glue it all up so fast can leave it loose to be able to change thing as I go along.
> So here's a step by step.
> 
> Using my Dowel Crafter jig.
> I could have used my Shop Smith in horizontal drill press mod just as easy but forgot about it at the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now when I get ready to glue every thing up I don't need to worry about the parts moving while gluing and adding clamps, every thing stays put.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's some body shots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will need to cut out the back, the motor is half way in the cabin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks.


Thank you Bruce for a top tutorial on the cabin; I'm especially impressed with the mini doweling…..


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Building the body and motor*
> 
> Got started on the motor and body today so here we go.
> I may go back to the full diesel truck body and save this body for another project but we'll see.
> No matter here's a how to on doweling.
> The body is going to flip up so need a motor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Started cutting out the body and then sanding the windows.
> I've been using a file and metal straight edge to get my windows looking right.
> 
> My saw is just barely holding on, I'm surprised it got these parts cut.
> That Raccoon just about killed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to use dowels to hold my projects together as I build, this keeps every thing lined up and I don't have to glue it all up so fast can leave it loose to be able to change thing as I go along.
> So here's a step by step.
> 
> Using my Dowel Crafter jig.
> I could have used my Shop Smith in horizontal drill press mod just as easy but forgot about it at the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now when I get ready to glue every thing up I don't need to worry about the parts moving while gluing and adding clamps, every thing stays put.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's some body shots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will need to cut out the back, the motor is half way in the cabin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks.


I'm an old I mean old cabinet builder from way back so doweling was a way of life , you had to make the face frames strong so dowels was the way to go.
Doweling has fallen out of fashion now a days but it has worked for me for years.
Biscuits was used for a while now it's all screws and they work great but not in this application.
Thanks all for your comments and sure love checking out you projects, I get new ideas every day.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Building the body and motor*
> 
> Got started on the motor and body today so here we go.
> I may go back to the full diesel truck body and save this body for another project but we'll see.
> No matter here's a how to on doweling.
> The body is going to flip up so need a motor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Started cutting out the body and then sanding the windows.
> I've been using a file and metal straight edge to get my windows looking right.
> 
> My saw is just barely holding on, I'm surprised it got these parts cut.
> That Raccoon just about killed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to use dowels to hold my projects together as I build, this keeps every thing lined up and I don't have to glue it all up so fast can leave it loose to be able to change thing as I go along.
> So here's a step by step.
> 
> Using my Dowel Crafter jig.
> I could have used my Shop Smith in horizontal drill press mod just as easy but forgot about it at the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now when I get ready to glue every thing up I don't need to worry about the parts moving while gluing and adding clamps, every thing stays put.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's some body shots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will need to cut out the back, the motor is half way in the cabin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks.


Hookfoot I just checked out your posts and wow some really fine work there.
One of the few that I have seen that use metal and plastics, to dress up their projects.
Very nice job, *Out Standing* is a better word.


----------



## rougninit

htl said:


> *Building the body and motor*
> 
> Got started on the motor and body today so here we go.
> I may go back to the full diesel truck body and save this body for another project but we'll see.
> No matter here's a how to on doweling.
> The body is going to flip up so need a motor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Started cutting out the body and then sanding the windows.
> I've been using a file and metal straight edge to get my windows looking right.
> 
> My saw is just barely holding on, I'm surprised it got these parts cut.
> That Raccoon just about killed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to use dowels to hold my projects together as I build, this keeps every thing lined up and I don't have to glue it all up so fast can leave it loose to be able to change thing as I go along.
> So here's a step by step.
> 
> Using my Dowel Crafter jig.
> I could have used my Shop Smith in horizontal drill press mod just as easy but forgot about it at the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now when I get ready to glue every thing up I don't need to worry about the parts moving while gluing and adding clamps, every thing stays put.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's some body shots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will need to cut out the back, the motor is half way in the cabin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks.


Do you have any drawings on the motor/transmission that you would be willing to share? I enjoy adding detail and have been trying to come up with a motor trans set up. Yours looks real good


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Building the body and motor*
> 
> Got started on the motor and body today so here we go.
> I may go back to the full diesel truck body and save this body for another project but we'll see.
> No matter here's a how to on doweling.
> The body is going to flip up so need a motor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Started cutting out the body and then sanding the windows.
> I've been using a file and metal straight edge to get my windows looking right.
> 
> My saw is just barely holding on, I'm surprised it got these parts cut.
> That Raccoon just about killed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to use dowels to hold my projects together as I build, this keeps every thing lined up and I don't have to glue it all up so fast can leave it loose to be able to change thing as I go along.
> So here's a step by step.
> 
> Using my Dowel Crafter jig.
> I could have used my Shop Smith in horizontal drill press mod just as easy but forgot about it at the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now when I get ready to glue every thing up I don't need to worry about the parts moving while gluing and adding clamps, every thing stays put.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's some body shots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will need to cut out the back, the motor is half way in the cabin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks.


Mine came out of a Gatto truck plan I never made the truck but the motor and rear end are very interesting.
Check out the motor in this build.

Figure out what make of truck you're building then do a search for the motor that goes with it then search for motor pictures.
There should be tons of pictures of people rebuilding trucks and motors.
Then down load some pictures print them out to size and then draw the outlines of the motor and trans and there you go.

Or take my first picture up top and print it out to suit.


----------



## htl

*More body work*

Working from scratch this is taking quite a bit longer to get er done.
Here's my progress today.
Wheel wells engine box radiator and seats and sand sand sand.
The truck has a flip up cab so you can get to the engine.
Really adds to the work and should I say fun? ya! fun!!!
I just thought to note that the sides are not glued at this point so able to make any changes needed.


























Adding the lower step and floor.


















Glue in radiator so can line up partitions and set base.


















Able to place wheel wells now.


















Engine still not glued in may have to make changes to oil pan so axial will work but that's down the road a bit.








Add seats and made engine cover but we'll see that tomorrow maybe.









The truck is supposed to have a in line diesel but it's looking more like one mean v8 or v10 to me.
That's all for today.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *More body work*
> 
> Working from scratch this is taking quite a bit longer to get er done.
> Here's my progress today.
> Wheel wells engine box radiator and seats and sand sand sand.
> The truck has a flip up cab so you can get to the engine.
> Really adds to the work and should I say fun? ya! fun!!!
> I just thought to note that the sides are not glued at this point so able to make any changes needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adding the lower step and floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue in radiator so can line up partitions and set base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Able to place wheel wells now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Engine still not glued in may have to make changes to oil pan so axial will work but that's down the road a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add seats and made engine cover but we'll see that tomorrow maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The truck is supposed to have a in line diesel but it's looking more like one mean v8 or v10 to me.
> That's all for today.


I like the flip over and how the motor is mounted. Keep going on.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *More body work*
> 
> Working from scratch this is taking quite a bit longer to get er done.
> Here's my progress today.
> Wheel wells engine box radiator and seats and sand sand sand.
> The truck has a flip up cab so you can get to the engine.
> Really adds to the work and should I say fun? ya! fun!!!
> I just thought to note that the sides are not glued at this point so able to make any changes needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adding the lower step and floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue in radiator so can line up partitions and set base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Able to place wheel wells now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Engine still not glued in may have to make changes to oil pan so axial will work but that's down the road a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add seats and made engine cover but we'll see that tomorrow maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The truck is supposed to have a in line diesel but it's looking more like one mean v8 or v10 to me.
> That's all for today.


Dutchy I'm on new ground here never built like this before so hope it works out.
I can always hide it in the closet. lol


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *More body work*
> 
> Working from scratch this is taking quite a bit longer to get er done.
> Here's my progress today.
> Wheel wells engine box radiator and seats and sand sand sand.
> The truck has a flip up cab so you can get to the engine.
> Really adds to the work and should I say fun? ya! fun!!!
> I just thought to note that the sides are not glued at this point so able to make any changes needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adding the lower step and floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue in radiator so can line up partitions and set base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Able to place wheel wells now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Engine still not glued in may have to make changes to oil pan so axial will work but that's down the road a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add seats and made engine cover but we'll see that tomorrow maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The truck is supposed to have a in line diesel but it's looking more like one mean v8 or v10 to me.
> That's all for today.


The flip-front cab is going to be an interesting twist !


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *More body work*
> 
> Working from scratch this is taking quite a bit longer to get er done.
> Here's my progress today.
> Wheel wells engine box radiator and seats and sand sand sand.
> The truck has a flip up cab so you can get to the engine.
> Really adds to the work and should I say fun? ya! fun!!!
> I just thought to note that the sides are not glued at this point so able to make any changes needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adding the lower step and floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue in radiator so can line up partitions and set base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Able to place wheel wells now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Engine still not glued in may have to make changes to oil pan so axial will work but that's down the road a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add seats and made engine cover but we'll see that tomorrow maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The truck is supposed to have a in line diesel but it's looking more like one mean v8 or v10 to me.
> That's all for today.


Joe ain't this the way the big rigs are supposed to be with the flip top?


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *More body work*
> 
> Working from scratch this is taking quite a bit longer to get er done.
> Here's my progress today.
> Wheel wells engine box radiator and seats and sand sand sand.
> The truck has a flip up cab so you can get to the engine.
> Really adds to the work and should I say fun? ya! fun!!!
> I just thought to note that the sides are not glued at this point so able to make any changes needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adding the lower step and floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue in radiator so can line up partitions and set base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Able to place wheel wells now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Engine still not glued in may have to make changes to oil pan so axial will work but that's down the road a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add seats and made engine cover but we'll see that tomorrow maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The truck is supposed to have a in line diesel but it's looking more like one mean v8 or v10 to me.
> That's all for today.





> Joe ain t this the way the big rigs are supposed to be with the flip top?
> 
> - htl


Yes, the "Cab-over" styles do that. I was referencing that I had not seen anyone build a model of a tilt-cab.

I worked in a big truck shop when I was younger and more than once I saw the mechanics tilt a cab up without bothering to check for "loose items" in the cab. But they never cared, it was the owner's problem to clean up the mess. 
.
.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *More body work*
> 
> Working from scratch this is taking quite a bit longer to get er done.
> Here's my progress today.
> Wheel wells engine box radiator and seats and sand sand sand.
> The truck has a flip up cab so you can get to the engine.
> Really adds to the work and should I say fun? ya! fun!!!
> I just thought to note that the sides are not glued at this point so able to make any changes needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adding the lower step and floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue in radiator so can line up partitions and set base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Able to place wheel wells now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Engine still not glued in may have to make changes to oil pan so axial will work but that's down the road a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add seats and made engine cover but we'll see that tomorrow maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The truck is supposed to have a in line diesel but it's looking more like one mean v8 or v10 to me.
> That's all for today.


Joe I'm glad you said something about that cause I had been wondering about it. LOL


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *More body work*
> 
> Working from scratch this is taking quite a bit longer to get er done.
> Here's my progress today.
> Wheel wells engine box radiator and seats and sand sand sand.
> The truck has a flip up cab so you can get to the engine.
> Really adds to the work and should I say fun? ya! fun!!!
> I just thought to note that the sides are not glued at this point so able to make any changes needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adding the lower step and floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue in radiator so can line up partitions and set base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Able to place wheel wells now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Engine still not glued in may have to make changes to oil pan so axial will work but that's down the road a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add seats and made engine cover but we'll see that tomorrow maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The truck is supposed to have a in line diesel but it's looking more like one mean v8 or v10 to me.
> That's all for today.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *More body work*
> 
> Working from scratch this is taking quite a bit longer to get er done.
> Here's my progress today.
> Wheel wells engine box radiator and seats and sand sand sand.
> The truck has a flip up cab so you can get to the engine.
> Really adds to the work and should I say fun? ya! fun!!!
> I just thought to note that the sides are not glued at this point so able to make any changes needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adding the lower step and floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue in radiator so can line up partitions and set base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Able to place wheel wells now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Engine still not glued in may have to make changes to oil pan so axial will work but that's down the road a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add seats and made engine cover but we'll see that tomorrow maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The truck is supposed to have a in line diesel but it's looking more like one mean v8 or v10 to me.
> That's all for today.


Very impressive…you'll be able to service this model easily…


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *More body work*
> 
> Working from scratch this is taking quite a bit longer to get er done.
> Here's my progress today.
> Wheel wells engine box radiator and seats and sand sand sand.
> The truck has a flip up cab so you can get to the engine.
> Really adds to the work and should I say fun? ya! fun!!!
> I just thought to note that the sides are not glued at this point so able to make any changes needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adding the lower step and floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue in radiator so can line up partitions and set base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Able to place wheel wells now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Engine still not glued in may have to make changes to oil pan so axial will work but that's down the road a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add seats and made engine cover but we'll see that tomorrow maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The truck is supposed to have a in line diesel but it's looking more like one mean v8 or v10 to me.
> That's all for today.





> - Dutchy


That's funny Jan. I spent about 10 minutes looking thru Google images before I found a photo that clearly showed the tilt-cab. I dont think I even noticed what was on the wall (except for "Kenworth" )


----------



## htl

*Truck cab and back axial*

Finished up the inside.



































I sanded down the engine compartment top a little to much and the engine woldn't fit so had to cut the inside top to fix.
Shopsmith to the rescue one more time.

























Had to square up the side before I could glue and clamp her up.


























Now the wind shield can be framed in.




































Here's how the back axial works, and it will pivot for bumps.
The axial is drilled then the dowel frame members are glued in.

The axial bracket fits into the truck frame for strength.



































She's getting closer.
I was going to add a top to the cabin but I think it will do just fine as is, what do you all think.

Next up bumper and grill.
Then air filter and mufflers


----------



## JulianLech

htl said:


> *Truck cab and back axial*
> 
> Finished up the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sanded down the engine compartment top a little to much and the engine woldn't fit so had to cut the inside top to fix.
> Shopsmith to the rescue one more time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to square up the side before I could glue and clamp her up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> Now the wind shield can be framed in.
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> Here's how the back axial works, and it will pivot for bumps.
> The axial is drilled then the dowel frame members are glued in.
> 
> The axial bracket fits into the truck frame for strength.
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> She's getting closer.
> I was going to add a top to the cabin but I think it will do just fine as is, what do you all think.
> 
> Next up bumper and grill.
> Then air filter and mufflers


Looks great. The small details look fantastic.


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## Dee1

htl said:


> *Truck cab and back axial*
> 
> Finished up the inside.
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> I sanded down the engine compartment top a little to much and the engine woldn't fit so had to cut the inside top to fix.
> Shopsmith to the rescue one more time.
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> Had to square up the side before I could glue and clamp her up.
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> Now the wind shield can be framed in.
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> 
> Here's how the back axial works, and it will pivot for bumps.
> The axial is drilled then the dowel frame members are glued in.
> 
> The axial bracket fits into the truck frame for strength.
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> She's getting closer.
> I was going to add a top to the cabin but I think it will do just fine as is, what do you all think.
> 
> Next up bumper and grill.
> Then air filter and mufflers


Looking good I like it esp the wheels and tires.
D


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Truck cab and back axial*
> 
> Finished up the inside.
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> I sanded down the engine compartment top a little to much and the engine woldn't fit so had to cut the inside top to fix.
> Shopsmith to the rescue one more time.
> 
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> Had to square up the side before I could glue and clamp her up.
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> Now the wind shield can be framed in.
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> 
> Here's how the back axial works, and it will pivot for bumps.
> The axial is drilled then the dowel frame members are glued in.
> 
> The axial bracket fits into the truck frame for strength.
> 
> 
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> 
> She's getting closer.
> I was going to add a top to the cabin but I think it will do just fine as is, what do you all think.
> 
> Next up bumper and grill.
> Then air filter and mufflers


Steering clear of the tire/tyre debate… I'll just call them "whils" and they look great without stealing the thunder from the cabin which look fantastic and the detail is highly commendable.

I'm guessing the axial design is yours interpretation or did you get your clues elsewhere? I'm not mechanically minded and would be lost without a blueprint to follow.

In another post you mentioned straight treads to save laminating the "whils" (quicker to spell.. if I didn't quote it) segments. Looking at the pictures above, I am thinking that the staggered treads may look better in the long run (at the cost of more hours).

One blatant mistake I picked up… the steering whil is on the wrong side… DOH!


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Truck cab and back axial*
> 
> Finished up the inside.
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> I sanded down the engine compartment top a little to much and the engine woldn't fit so had to cut the inside top to fix.
> Shopsmith to the rescue one more time.
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> Had to square up the side before I could glue and clamp her up.
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> Now the wind shield can be framed in.
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> 
> Here's how the back axial works, and it will pivot for bumps.
> The axial is drilled then the dowel frame members are glued in.
> 
> The axial bracket fits into the truck frame for strength.
> 
> 
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> She's getting closer.
> I was going to add a top to the cabin but I think it will do just fine as is, what do you all think.
> 
> Next up bumper and grill.
> Then air filter and mufflers


I like to see your progression. In my opinion a higher cabin fits on a long distance truck, not in combination with a drilling rig.


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Truck cab and back axial*
> 
> Finished up the inside.
> 
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> 
> I sanded down the engine compartment top a little to much and the engine woldn't fit so had to cut the inside top to fix.
> Shopsmith to the rescue one more time.
> 
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> Had to square up the side before I could glue and clamp her up.
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> Now the wind shield can be framed in.
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> 
> 
> Here's how the back axial works, and it will pivot for bumps.
> The axial is drilled then the dowel frame members are glued in.
> 
> The axial bracket fits into the truck frame for strength.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> She's getting closer.
> I was going to add a top to the cabin but I think it will do just fine as is, what do you all think.
> 
> Next up bumper and grill.
> Then air filter and mufflers





> One blatant mistake I picked up… the steering whil is on the wrong side… DOH!
> 
> - LittleBlackDuck





> ?


????
Would you have put the steering wheel on the bottom?


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Truck cab and back axial*
> 
> Finished up the inside.
> 
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> 
> I sanded down the engine compartment top a little to much and the engine woldn't fit so had to cut the inside top to fix.
> Shopsmith to the rescue one more time.
> 
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> Had to square up the side before I could glue and clamp her up.
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> Now the wind shield can be framed in.
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> 
> Here's how the back axial works, and it will pivot for bumps.
> The axial is drilled then the dowel frame members are glued in.
> 
> The axial bracket fits into the truck frame for strength.
> 
> 
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> She's getting closer.
> I was going to add a top to the cabin but I think it will do just fine as is, what do you all think.
> 
> Next up bumper and grill.
> Then air filter and mufflers





> ... steering wheel on the bottom?


Of course YES! After all I am down under..


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## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Truck cab and back axial*
> 
> Finished up the inside.
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> I sanded down the engine compartment top a little to much and the engine woldn't fit so had to cut the inside top to fix.
> Shopsmith to the rescue one more time.
> 
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> Had to square up the side before I could glue and clamp her up.
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> Now the wind shield can be framed in.
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> 
> Here's how the back axial works, and it will pivot for bumps.
> The axial is drilled then the dowel frame members are glued in.
> 
> The axial bracket fits into the truck frame for strength.
> 
> 
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> 
> She's getting closer.
> I was going to add a top to the cabin but I think it will do just fine as is, what do you all think.
> 
> Next up bumper and grill.
> Then air filter and mufflers


In the first 3 photos it looks like you got a skosh too close to the edge with the upper pin on the drivers side. But in the subsequent pics of the assembled cab I dont see it. Did you re-make the drivers "door"? Or did it sand out so nicely that it cant be seen?

Oh and I really like that you added seat cushions !


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## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Truck cab and back axial*
> 
> Finished up the inside.
> 
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> 
> I sanded down the engine compartment top a little to much and the engine woldn't fit so had to cut the inside top to fix.
> Shopsmith to the rescue one more time.
> 
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> Had to square up the side before I could glue and clamp her up.
> 
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> Now the wind shield can be framed in.
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> 
> 
> Here's how the back axial works, and it will pivot for bumps.
> The axial is drilled then the dowel frame members are glued in.
> 
> The axial bracket fits into the truck frame for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> She's getting closer.
> I was going to add a top to the cabin but I think it will do just fine as is, what do you all think.
> 
> Next up bumper and grill.
> Then air filter and mufflers


Oh and I do agree with Jan, the big wind deflector which would sit on the roof would probably not look right on an oil rig. More likely found on over-the-road semi trucks.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Truck cab and back axial*
> 
> Finished up the inside.
> 
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> 
> I sanded down the engine compartment top a little to much and the engine woldn't fit so had to cut the inside top to fix.
> Shopsmith to the rescue one more time.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> Had to square up the side before I could glue and clamp her up.
> 
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> Now the wind shield can be framed in.
> 
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> 
> 
> Here's how the back axial works, and it will pivot for bumps.
> The axial is drilled then the dowel frame members are glued in.
> 
> The axial bracket fits into the truck frame for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> She's getting closer.
> I was going to add a top to the cabin but I think it will do just fine as is, what do you all think.
> 
> Next up bumper and grill.
> Then air filter and mufflers


Double posted???
Love all the comments!!!


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## htl

htl said:


> *Truck cab and back axial*
> 
> Finished up the inside.
> 
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> 
> I sanded down the engine compartment top a little to much and the engine woldn't fit so had to cut the inside top to fix.
> Shopsmith to the rescue one more time.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> Had to square up the side before I could glue and clamp her up.
> 
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> Now the wind shield can be framed in.
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> 
> Here's how the back axial works, and it will pivot for bumps.
> The axial is drilled then the dowel frame members are glued in.
> 
> The axial bracket fits into the truck frame for strength.
> 
> 
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> 
> She's getting closer.
> I was going to add a top to the cabin but I think it will do just fine as is, what do you all think.
> 
> Next up bumper and grill.
> Then air filter and mufflers


*Little Ducky*
The funny thing is the truck body it's copied off the LR Mack garbage truck and is supposed to have steering wheels on both sides. lol

The axials come from the pictures that Duchy gave us when he was making his, his how to really helped me get my planing together then tried to simplify if I could.

On the tire front.
Building them the way I mentioned would give them a street tyre look while the staggered tread gives it an universal tire look.
[http://lumberjocks.com/htl/blog/80954 post 15]

When I used to race dirt bikes we had 3 different tire to choose from street tires universal and knobby tires.
*Street just for the street*









*universal tread for on and off road tire*










*Nobby tire full durt*










*Duchy *your right on, about the higher truck for the long haulers.
My truck will be higher off the ground for ground clearance but not top heavy where a slight uneven road would cause it to fall over.
I just stuck the well digger on there for a look but will be making it to haul the excavator I think?
Will need to build a trailer for it.
My thinking is that the truck needs the tools so it can get the excavator into hard to get at locations.
Think muddier truck.

*Joe* about the skosh to close to the edge.
I to thought there was going to be a problem there once I sanded every thing flat on the front but??? for some reason it just went way I did nothing to fix it.
It would not have been a problem because I was planing on putting walnut bumpers on the corners any way.

I had thought at one time about the wind deflector but will not be pulling any thing high enough to be of any economic value here.
If I was going to build a full boxed trailer I would probable went with it.

About the cushions, I made way to much walk way planking for the excavator so will made cushions out of it for all my builds till I run out and then will probable make some more, it's an easy way to make my builds just that little bit different.
I don't think I've seen it done before.

Thanks for all the great comments it's a lot of fun seeing the build from others point of view and also seeing that your finding my little buggers.
Ideas are more than welcome, always love it when a plans comes together but hate it when I see something I could have done but it's to late now. [like putting the steering wheel on the wrong side]

Ducky it'd funny but when I first read your comment about the steering wheel I thought that may be I had put it on your side of the truck, *NOW WOULD'NT THAT HAVE BE JUST WRONG!!!*


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## htl

htl said:


> *Truck cab and back axial*
> 
> Finished up the inside.
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> 
> I sanded down the engine compartment top a little to much and the engine woldn't fit so had to cut the inside top to fix.
> Shopsmith to the rescue one more time.
> 
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> Had to square up the side before I could glue and clamp her up.
> 
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> Now the wind shield can be framed in.
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> Here's how the back axial works, and it will pivot for bumps.
> The axial is drilled then the dowel frame members are glued in.
> 
> The axial bracket fits into the truck frame for strength.
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> She's getting closer.
> I was going to add a top to the cabin but I think it will do just fine as is, what do you all think.
> 
> Next up bumper and grill.
> Then air filter and mufflers


*Joe* I was just back looking at my pictures and figured out what we were seeing.
It was the glue showing that socking through and darkened the wood .
The super glue sands out clear so sanded and puff the bugger it's gone.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Truck cab and back axial*
> 
> Finished up the inside.
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> I sanded down the engine compartment top a little to much and the engine woldn't fit so had to cut the inside top to fix.
> Shopsmith to the rescue one more time.
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> Had to square up the side before I could glue and clamp her up.
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> Now the wind shield can be framed in.
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> 
> Here's how the back axial works, and it will pivot for bumps.
> The axial is drilled then the dowel frame members are glued in.
> 
> The axial bracket fits into the truck frame for strength.
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> She's getting closer.
> I was going to add a top to the cabin but I think it will do just fine as is, what do you all think.
> 
> Next up bumper and grill.
> Then air filter and mufflers


There is so much time, effort and skill going into this build…and one can't but be in awe!!!


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## htl

htl said:


> *Truck cab and back axial*
> 
> Finished up the inside.
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> I sanded down the engine compartment top a little to much and the engine woldn't fit so had to cut the inside top to fix.
> Shopsmith to the rescue one more time.
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> Had to square up the side before I could glue and clamp her up.
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> Now the wind shield can be framed in.
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> 
> Here's how the back axial works, and it will pivot for bumps.
> The axial is drilled then the dowel frame members are glued in.
> 
> The axial bracket fits into the truck frame for strength.
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> She's getting closer.
> I was going to add a top to the cabin but I think it will do just fine as is, what do you all think.
> 
> Next up bumper and grill.
> Then air filter and mufflers


Thanks Crowie I needed that!!!
I've been looking at all the great posts and was just about ready to quite posting and building.
Having one of those bad rainy days I guess.


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## htl

*Mack Truck Steering*

The Gatto truck plans have movable steering but not to my liking, they used little tabs to hold the main pivot point and that looked like it would be a weak spot so tried something a little different to get er done.






















































These parts will be seeing a lot a twisting and turning so socked them in super glue to help strengthen them.










I don't seem to be very good at rounding edges free hand so used a rounding jig to get a much better look.



























I went back after the pictures and cut and sanded parts that were binding.
I'll still need to sand and buff every thing up but thought I better let it set over night and set up.
I did it once don't want to have to redo it.
That's all folks.


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## johnstoneb

htl said:


> *Mack Truck Steering*
> 
> The Gatto truck plans have movable steering but not to my liking, they used little tabs to hold the main pivot point and that looked like it would be a weak spot so tried something a little different to get er done.
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> These parts will be seeing a lot a twisting and turning so socked them in super glue to help strengthen them.
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> I don't seem to be very good at rounding edges free hand so used a rounding jig to get a much better look.
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> I went back after the pictures and cut and sanded parts that were binding.
> I'll still need to sand and buff every thing up but thought I better let it set over night and set up.
> I did it once don't want to have to redo it.
> That's all folks.


That front axle looks good. Your design is very close to what is on the actual truck and looks plenty strong.


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Mack Truck Steering*
> 
> The Gatto truck plans have movable steering but not to my liking, they used little tabs to hold the main pivot point and that looked like it would be a weak spot so tried something a little different to get er done.
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> These parts will be seeing a lot a twisting and turning so socked them in super glue to help strengthen them.
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> I don't seem to be very good at rounding edges free hand so used a rounding jig to get a much better look.
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> I went back after the pictures and cut and sanded parts that were binding.
> I'll still need to sand and buff every thing up but thought I better let it set over night and set up.
> I did it once don't want to have to redo it.
> That's all folks.


I had a hunch you would make movable steering and indeed there it is. I like this very much. Thanks for sharing.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Mack Truck Steering*
> 
> The Gatto truck plans have movable steering but not to my liking, they used little tabs to hold the main pivot point and that looked like it would be a weak spot so tried something a little different to get er done.
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> These parts will be seeing a lot a twisting and turning so socked them in super glue to help strengthen them.
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> I don't seem to be very good at rounding edges free hand so used a rounding jig to get a much better look.
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> I went back after the pictures and cut and sanded parts that were binding.
> I'll still need to sand and buff every thing up but thought I better let it set over night and set up.
> I did it once don't want to have to redo it.
> That's all folks.





> I don t seem to be very good at rounding edges free hand so used a rounding jig to get a much better look.


You need some lessons from a certain Dutchman…

Keep up this level of detail and you'll be able to drive your next model.


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## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Mack Truck Steering*
> 
> The Gatto truck plans have movable steering but not to my liking, they used little tabs to hold the main pivot point and that looked like it would be a weak spot so tried something a little different to get er done.
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> These parts will be seeing a lot a twisting and turning so socked them in super glue to help strengthen them.
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> I don't seem to be very good at rounding edges free hand so used a rounding jig to get a much better look.
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> I went back after the pictures and cut and sanded parts that were binding.
> I'll still need to sand and buff every thing up but thought I better let it set over night and set up.
> I did it once don't want to have to redo it.
> That's all folks.


I agree with Bruce in Boise above. Nice job


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## htl

htl said:


> *Mack Truck Steering*
> 
> The Gatto truck plans have movable steering but not to my liking, they used little tabs to hold the main pivot point and that looked like it would be a weak spot so tried something a little different to get er done.
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> These parts will be seeing a lot a twisting and turning so socked them in super glue to help strengthen them.
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> I don't seem to be very good at rounding edges free hand so used a rounding jig to get a much better look.
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> I went back after the pictures and cut and sanded parts that were binding.
> I'll still need to sand and buff every thing up but thought I better let it set over night and set up.
> I did it once don't want to have to redo it.
> That's all folks.


I just thought it really looked cool when the front wheels were turned so figured why not and gave it a try.
This was a poser project. lol


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## htl

htl said:


> *Mack Truck Steering*
> 
> The Gatto truck plans have movable steering but not to my liking, they used little tabs to hold the main pivot point and that looked like it would be a weak spot so tried something a little different to get er done.
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> These parts will be seeing a lot a twisting and turning so socked them in super glue to help strengthen them.
> 
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> I don't seem to be very good at rounding edges free hand so used a rounding jig to get a much better look.
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> 
> I went back after the pictures and cut and sanded parts that were binding.
> I'll still need to sand and buff every thing up but thought I better let it set over night and set up.
> I did it once don't want to have to redo it.
> That's all folks.


Really for me drilling a hole near the end of a part then slip it over a dowel to sand is a pretty fast way to get it just right. 
No marking of parts and they come out the same every time.

I still need to sand a little clearance between the wheel and the privet arm, glue up the dowels and mount it in place.

I know I go on and on at some points and are simple tips but they may help some one starting out to not have to reinvent the wheel so to speak.
Just my $.02

I've asked this before but *do any of you have some favorite model building sites *that have helped you?


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Mack Truck Steering*
> 
> The Gatto truck plans have movable steering but not to my liking, they used little tabs to hold the main pivot point and that looked like it would be a weak spot so tried something a little different to get er done.
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> These parts will be seeing a lot a twisting and turning so socked them in super glue to help strengthen them.
> 
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> I don't seem to be very good at rounding edges free hand so used a rounding jig to get a much better look.
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> I went back after the pictures and cut and sanded parts that were binding.
> I'll still need to sand and buff every thing up but thought I better let it set over night and set up.
> I did it once don't want to have to redo it.
> That's all folks.


Bruce, all your tips ARE greatly appreciated. You (and Dutchy) have revised a lot of my practices. It was my typical tongue in cheek comment. I'd complain if I won $10,000,00 dollars. After all one can only say great job about 1,000 times before it becomes repetitive.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Mack Truck Steering*
> 
> The Gatto truck plans have movable steering but not to my liking, they used little tabs to hold the main pivot point and that looked like it would be a weak spot so tried something a little different to get er done.
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> These parts will be seeing a lot a twisting and turning so socked them in super glue to help strengthen them.
> 
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> I don't seem to be very good at rounding edges free hand so used a rounding jig to get a much better look.
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> I went back after the pictures and cut and sanded parts that were binding.
> I'll still need to sand and buff every thing up but thought I better let it set over night and set up.
> I did it once don't want to have to redo it.
> That's all folks.


Your tongue and cheek is what I enjoy ,man we got to try and keep things lively.
Take T&J site man that's one dead place, there's so much talent but no one wants to share just take.

Ducky I would love to see and hear a little about your lazer builds looks interesting from what little I've seen of it.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Mack Truck Steering*
> 
> The Gatto truck plans have movable steering but not to my liking, they used little tabs to hold the main pivot point and that looked like it would be a weak spot so tried something a little different to get er done.
> 
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> These parts will be seeing a lot a twisting and turning so socked them in super glue to help strengthen them.
> 
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> I don't seem to be very good at rounding edges free hand so used a rounding jig to get a much better look.
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> I went back after the pictures and cut and sanded parts that were binding.
> I'll still need to sand and buff every thing up but thought I better let it set over night and set up.
> I did it once don't want to have to redo it.
> That's all folks.


Bruce, I mainly use the laser to cut those crappy small intricate pieces, that challenge the presence of fingers, for "truck" builds (and routing templates out of 6mm MDF for the large curved pieces)

I'd would love to share my other two passions,
1. Laser cutting timber for builds (and jigs).
2. 3D printing for the workshop.
however, I will start up a new project/blog once I can figure out how to do things. You being a vet. of posting, what is the generally acceptable size of photos (in pixel dimensions). Can I directly upload them or do I need to use some sort of media like PhotoBucket (I did make a blog but that was a few days ago and I am over 65 so I can't remember)..


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## htl

htl said:


> *Mack Truck Steering*
> 
> The Gatto truck plans have movable steering but not to my liking, they used little tabs to hold the main pivot point and that looked like it would be a weak spot so tried something a little different to get er done.
> 
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> These parts will be seeing a lot a twisting and turning so socked them in super glue to help strengthen them.
> 
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> I don't seem to be very good at rounding edges free hand so used a rounding jig to get a much better look.
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> I went back after the pictures and cut and sanded parts that were binding.
> I'll still need to sand and buff every thing up but thought I better let it set over night and set up.
> I did it once don't want to have to redo it.
> That's all folks.


Ducky I'm 66 so can't remember what I was going to say.
But on another note,I just use my Canon camera to take my pictures and the LJ shrinks them down some what.
I save my pictures to a file then just use the LJ software to down load it.
It's not like T&J where it's like pulling teeth to post a picture.

Just click on the img button show the program where you saved the picture and down load.
There's a good how to on here some where.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Mack Truck Steering*
> 
> The Gatto truck plans have movable steering but not to my liking, they used little tabs to hold the main pivot point and that looked like it would be a weak spot so tried something a little different to get er done.
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> These parts will be seeing a lot a twisting and turning so socked them in super glue to help strengthen them.
> 
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> I don't seem to be very good at rounding edges free hand so used a rounding jig to get a much better look.
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> I went back after the pictures and cut and sanded parts that were binding.
> I'll still need to sand and buff every thing up but thought I better let it set over night and set up.
> I did it once don't want to have to redo it.
> That's all folks.


You old bugger…, however I can still call you junior as a register my 67th in a few days… BTW. It doesn't have to be big, but expensive… my prezzie.

It's all coming back… including my name. Will have an attempt and keep you posted (hopefully better than Australia Post who take 5 days to deliver a letter in the same town).


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Mack Truck Steering*
> 
> The Gatto truck plans have movable steering but not to my liking, they used little tabs to hold the main pivot point and that looked like it would be a weak spot so tried something a little different to get er done.
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> 
> 
> These parts will be seeing a lot a twisting and turning so socked them in super glue to help strengthen them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't seem to be very good at rounding edges free hand so used a rounding jig to get a much better look.
> 
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> 
> I went back after the pictures and cut and sanded parts that were binding.
> I'll still need to sand and buff every thing up but thought I better let it set over night and set up.
> I did it once don't want to have to redo it.
> That's all folks.


I'll have to put this one in the memory bank for "Ron", thank you


----------



## htl

*Mack grill, front bumper and safety cage*

Another day in the shop another progress report.
Made a front bumper, front radiator grill and a safety cage for the back.

















The mufflers #2 and the air filters will go between the cage and the cabin.









*Here's a no measure way to make a grill, works for me any way.*

Have a 1/8" *spacer* board on hand.

I glue up two different 1/8" thick woods and make bigger than need to be, and square up the board…
Mark the center of board
Set the table saw fence to cut center first.
Set the table saw up for a 1/8" deep of cut, just enough to cut through the first board.
Make first cut.
Stop saw and put the wood back in it's last cut move the fence out so you can put in the spacer, lock fence and remove spacer.
Make a cut flip the board around and cut again.
Unlock fence add spacer and repeat as before till you've cut the whole grill.
Now cut grill to right size.
This will work for many cuts that need to be perfectly even cause just a slight difference and it just looks bad.

*Here's one of those places where 3 pictures say a thousand words. lol
*



























I also glued up the front axial to the frame, I glues up all the back axial parts but will not glue to frame at this time.

I played with making a head lights and tried 3 or four different things but for now no joy on that front.
I made a wedge to hold the back axial in place till I really know what I want.

That's all focks and hope some of you will have some use for this post.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Mack grill, front bumper and safety cage*
> 
> Another day in the shop another progress report.
> Made a front bumper, front radiator grill and a safety cage for the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The mufflers #2 and the air filters will go between the cage and the cabin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Here's a no measure way to make a grill, works for me any way.*
> 
> Have a 1/8" *spacer* board on hand.
> 
> I glue up two different 1/8" thick woods and make bigger than need to be, and square up the board…
> Mark the center of board
> Set the table saw fence to cut center first.
> Set the table saw up for a 1/8" deep of cut, just enough to cut through the first board.
> Make first cut.
> Stop saw and put the wood back in it's last cut move the fence out so you can put in the spacer, lock fence and remove spacer.
> Make a cut flip the board around and cut again.
> Unlock fence add spacer and repeat as before till you've cut the whole grill.
> Now cut grill to right size.
> This will work for many cuts that need to be perfectly even cause just a slight difference and it just looks bad.
> 
> *Here's one of those places where 3 pictures say a thousand words. lol
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also glued up the front axial to the frame, I glues up all the back axial parts but will not glue to frame at this time.
> 
> I played with making a head lights and tried 3 or four different things but for now no joy on that front.
> I made a wedge to hold the back axial in place till I really know what I want.
> 
> That's all focks and hope some of you will have some use for this post.


I like…


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Mack grill, front bumper and safety cage*
> 
> Another day in the shop another progress report.
> Made a front bumper, front radiator grill and a safety cage for the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The mufflers #2 and the air filters will go between the cage and the cabin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Here's a no measure way to make a grill, works for me any way.*
> 
> Have a 1/8" *spacer* board on hand.
> 
> I glue up two different 1/8" thick woods and make bigger than need to be, and square up the board…
> Mark the center of board
> Set the table saw fence to cut center first.
> Set the table saw up for a 1/8" deep of cut, just enough to cut through the first board.
> Make first cut.
> Stop saw and put the wood back in it's last cut move the fence out so you can put in the spacer, lock fence and remove spacer.
> Make a cut flip the board around and cut again.
> Unlock fence add spacer and repeat as before till you've cut the whole grill.
> Now cut grill to right size.
> This will work for many cuts that need to be perfectly even cause just a slight difference and it just looks bad.
> 
> *Here's one of those places where 3 pictures say a thousand words. lol
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also glued up the front axial to the frame, I glues up all the back axial parts but will not glue to frame at this time.
> 
> I played with making a head lights and tried 3 or four different things but for now no joy on that front.
> I made a wedge to hold the back axial in place till I really know what I want.
> 
> That's all focks and hope some of you will have some use for this post.


Alrighty then. It's really starting to look like a truck now !


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Mack grill, front bumper and safety cage*
> 
> Another day in the shop another progress report.
> Made a front bumper, front radiator grill and a safety cage for the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The mufflers #2 and the air filters will go between the cage and the cabin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Here's a no measure way to make a grill, works for me any way.*
> 
> Have a 1/8" *spacer* board on hand.
> 
> I glue up two different 1/8" thick woods and make bigger than need to be, and square up the board…
> Mark the center of board
> Set the table saw fence to cut center first.
> Set the table saw up for a 1/8" deep of cut, just enough to cut through the first board.
> Make first cut.
> Stop saw and put the wood back in it's last cut move the fence out so you can put in the spacer, lock fence and remove spacer.
> Make a cut flip the board around and cut again.
> Unlock fence add spacer and repeat as before till you've cut the whole grill.
> Now cut grill to right size.
> This will work for many cuts that need to be perfectly even cause just a slight difference and it just looks bad.
> 
> *Here's one of those places where 3 pictures say a thousand words. lol
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also glued up the front axial to the frame, I glues up all the back axial parts but will not glue to frame at this time.
> 
> I played with making a head lights and tried 3 or four different things but for now no joy on that front.
> I made a wedge to hold the back axial in place till I really know what I want.
> 
> That's all focks and hope some of you will have some use for this post.


It looking great Bruce…

I've tried using the tablesaw that way to make a grill but yours looks heaps better….


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Mack grill, front bumper and safety cage*
> 
> Another day in the shop another progress report.
> Made a front bumper, front radiator grill and a safety cage for the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The mufflers #2 and the air filters will go between the cage and the cabin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Here's a no measure way to make a grill, works for me any way.*
> 
> Have a 1/8" *spacer* board on hand.
> 
> I glue up two different 1/8" thick woods and make bigger than need to be, and square up the board…
> Mark the center of board
> Set the table saw fence to cut center first.
> Set the table saw up for a 1/8" deep of cut, just enough to cut through the first board.
> Make first cut.
> Stop saw and put the wood back in it's last cut move the fence out so you can put in the spacer, lock fence and remove spacer.
> Make a cut flip the board around and cut again.
> Unlock fence add spacer and repeat as before till you've cut the whole grill.
> Now cut grill to right size.
> This will work for many cuts that need to be perfectly even cause just a slight difference and it just looks bad.
> 
> *Here's one of those places where 3 pictures say a thousand words. lol
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also glued up the front axial to the frame, I glues up all the back axial parts but will not glue to frame at this time.
> 
> I played with making a head lights and tried 3 or four different things but for now no joy on that front.
> I made a wedge to hold the back axial in place till I really know what I want.
> 
> That's all focks and hope some of you will have some use for this post.


Joe I didn't recognize you with out the hat. LOL
I showed my wife the motor when I first made it and she thought I was making a Gatling gun. lol

Crowie I'm using a 60 tooth skill saw blade very very thin blade.[dewalt]
It cuts like butter.
I'd say practice make perfect but it's only the second one I've made.


----------



## htl

*head lights,fender,wheel well, fifth wheel*

Worked most of the day but this is all I got done.
I'll bet I spent 4 hours trying to come up with a descent head light.
Let me tell you head lights are hard. lol
Played with the wheel wells and now half of my back safety cage will be cut off to fit. LOL- not funny-

*I need info on a good distance for the fifth wheel from the cab???*


----------



## johnstoneb

htl said:


> *head lights,fender,wheel well, fifth wheel*
> 
> Worked most of the day but this is all I got done.
> I'll bet I spent 4 hours trying to come up with a descent head light.
> Let me tell you head lights are hard. lol
> Played with the wheel wells and now half of my back safety cage will be cut off to fit. LOL- not funny-
> 
> *I need info on a good distance for the fifth wheel from the cab???*


The 5th wheel should be centered between the rear axles or just a little forward of center. Your cab to axle distance is dictated by the distance from the center of the king pin to the corners on the front of the trailer. That allows for clearance between the trailer and tractor when turning. On tandem axle tractors cab to axle distance is the distance from back of cab to centerline between the tandem axles.

Looking at your photos it looks like you will have plenty of distance.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *head lights,fender,wheel well, fifth wheel*
> 
> Worked most of the day but this is all I got done.
> I'll bet I spent 4 hours trying to come up with a descent head light.
> Let me tell you head lights are hard. lol
> Played with the wheel wells and now half of my back safety cage will be cut off to fit. LOL- not funny-
> 
> *I need info on a good distance for the fifth wheel from the cab???*


The 5th wheel should only be used by learner drivers and positioned so as to stop them running up the curb and hitting parked cars…

Sorry Bruce, actually this post is what has made me realise what is referred to as the 5th wheel. I actually thought it was something like Dutchy's small wheels on the dump truck. DOH! To think my father was going to call me Einstein….


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *head lights,fender,wheel well, fifth wheel*
> 
> Worked most of the day but this is all I got done.
> I'll bet I spent 4 hours trying to come up with a descent head light.
> Let me tell you head lights are hard. lol
> Played with the wheel wells and now half of my back safety cage will be cut off to fit. LOL- not funny-
> 
> *I need info on a good distance for the fifth wheel from the cab???*


Duckystein My dad was a union truck driver all his working life and I didn't know or remember what it was either. LOL
Me and my dad* were not close.* Thank you very much LOL
Now all I need to know is what is a king pin. LOL
I'm guessing the king pin is the privet point of what. the trailer of course!!! Sorry.
I've read it 7 times and it's starting to make sense.
*Thanks John for the info.*
But next time please translate it to Dutch so Dutchy can explain it to me.* Just kidding*.

So the answer is I need to finish the back of my truck then find out how wide the trailer I haven't *invented* yet is.
Take the distance of the width of the trailer cut it in half , which will give me the king pin distance for the trailer.
My double axial rear end will center the king pin.

*So the answer is half the distance of the trailer width, from king pin to truck back, plus a little me thinks.*
Simple ya right. LOL

Now that's one of the reasons they make the 5th wheel on adjustable teeth thingys so it can be adjusted.

My heads starting to hurt. LOL

*Joe I do appreciate the help just having some fun with it.*

PS!!! Now I know why Toys & Joys makes the big bucks!!!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *head lights,fender,wheel well, fifth wheel*
> 
> Worked most of the day but this is all I got done.
> I'll bet I spent 4 hours trying to come up with a descent head light.
> Let me tell you head lights are hard. lol
> Played with the wheel wells and now half of my back safety cage will be cut off to fit. LOL- not funny-
> 
> *I need info on a good distance for the fifth wheel from the cab???*


Duckystein this is very important *stuff* that I need to know desperately so please stop hitting my funny button in the middle of this very important *stuff*....
I think you know how importent this *stuff* is.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *head lights,fender,wheel well, fifth wheel*
> 
> Worked most of the day but this is all I got done.
> I'll bet I spent 4 hours trying to come up with a descent head light.
> Let me tell you head lights are hard. lol
> Played with the wheel wells and now half of my back safety cage will be cut off to fit. LOL- not funny-
> 
> *I need info on a good distance for the fifth wheel from the cab???*


K. I shall fade into retirement's retirement and for once keep the wife happy by shutting my mouth.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *head lights,fender,wheel well, fifth wheel*
> 
> Worked most of the day but this is all I got done.
> I'll bet I spent 4 hours trying to come up with a descent head light.
> Let me tell you head lights are hard. lol
> Played with the wheel wells and now half of my back safety cage will be cut off to fit. LOL- not funny-
> 
> *I need info on a good distance for the fifth wheel from the cab???*


I'll bet she's not even in the room so how is she going to know you've kept your mouth shut!!!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *head lights,fender,wheel well, fifth wheel*
> 
> Worked most of the day but this is all I got done.
> I'll bet I spent 4 hours trying to come up with a descent head light.
> Let me tell you head lights are hard. lol
> Played with the wheel wells and now half of my back safety cage will be cut off to fit. LOL- not funny-
> 
> *I need info on a good distance for the fifth wheel from the cab???*


Alex i wanted to comment on your furniture build that was some out standing work.
You've got the Tec to get er done.
And you know all that *STUFF* was in jest right!!!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *head lights,fender,wheel well, fifth wheel*
> 
> Worked most of the day but this is all I got done.
> I'll bet I spent 4 hours trying to come up with a descent head light.
> Let me tell you head lights are hard. lol
> Played with the wheel wells and now half of my back safety cage will be cut off to fit. LOL- not funny-
> 
> *I need info on a good distance for the fifth wheel from the cab???*





> ... in the room so how is she going to know…


You're married, aren't you? You know those impeccable creatures called wives have eyes in the back of their heads and are somehow linked into our webcams so they know exactly what we are doing…

Thanks for your kind words on the dresser. Yes it was a challenge as I wanted to make it visually the same as the original, warts and all. It was my first major Sketchup project and while I was a fumbling novice at the start I could just about class myself as an expert in not being a fumbling novice.

Oh yeh, I was very upset by your comments, but then the wife slapped me around because of my loud typing (or is it tiping?) so the offence faded into insignificance and furthermore, I have trouble reading your emails through blackened eyes.

Just kidding, you'd only offend me if you stole my loving wife (the one with the shotgun pointed at my head as I am telling you how nice she really is). I think my next model might be a hearse…. mine!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *head lights,fender,wheel well, fifth wheel*
> 
> Worked most of the day but this is all I got done.
> I'll bet I spent 4 hours trying to come up with a descent head light.
> Let me tell you head lights are hard. lol
> Played with the wheel wells and now half of my back safety cage will be cut off to fit. LOL- not funny-
> 
> *I need info on a good distance for the fifth wheel from the cab???*


Sorry, I am taking the topic away from what I consider brilliant work. So I'll shut up… for the second time.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *head lights,fender,wheel well, fifth wheel*
> 
> Worked most of the day but this is all I got done.
> I'll bet I spent 4 hours trying to come up with a descent head light.
> Let me tell you head lights are hard. lol
> Played with the wheel wells and now half of my back safety cage will be cut off to fit. LOL- not funny-
> 
> *I need info on a good distance for the fifth wheel from the cab???*


Vijfde wiel?? Wat een verhaal. Ik begrijp het allemaal niet meer.

BTW Nice head lights.


----------



## johnstoneb

htl said:


> *head lights,fender,wheel well, fifth wheel*
> 
> Worked most of the day but this is all I got done.
> I'll bet I spent 4 hours trying to come up with a descent head light.
> Let me tell you head lights are hard. lol
> Played with the wheel wells and now half of my back safety cage will be cut off to fit. LOL- not funny-
> 
> *I need info on a good distance for the fifth wheel from the cab???*


Yes the king pin is the pin on the trailer that connects to the 5th wheel. The dimension you need is not the width of the trailer but the distance from the king pin to one of the front corners of the trailer. This will be more than 1/2 the width of the trailer.

If you use 1/2 the trailer width when you turn, the corner of the trailer will hit the back of the cab. 
You can move that pin on the trailer forward or back some if you need to for clearance. Remember if a flatbed trailer you will need to place the landing gear where it won't hit the back of the tractor in a turn and if the trailer is a drop deck you have to have clearance at the drop for the rear of the tractor there also.

I have seen some people mount 5th wheels in their short bed pickups and what it does to the pickup cab after their first sharp corner is not pretty.

I just got plans from T&J for the garbage truck. I will build that here shortly. I may then take those plans and modify them to mount another concrete pump on the truck. T&J doesn't have an engine in the truck may have to modify the cab to accept an engine. It's funny how plans just beg to be modified.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *head lights,fender,wheel well, fifth wheel*
> 
> Worked most of the day but this is all I got done.
> I'll bet I spent 4 hours trying to come up with a descent head light.
> Let me tell you head lights are hard. lol
> Played with the wheel wells and now half of my back safety cage will be cut off to fit. LOL- not funny-
> 
> *I need info on a good distance for the fifth wheel from the cab???*


Dutchy I tried to translate it but wouldn't work this time?


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *head lights,fender,wheel well, fifth wheel*
> 
> Worked most of the day but this is all I got done.
> I'll bet I spent 4 hours trying to come up with a descent head light.
> Let me tell you head lights are hard. lol
> Played with the wheel wells and now half of my back safety cage will be cut off to fit. LOL- not funny-
> 
> *I need info on a good distance for the fifth wheel from the cab???*


Thanks John for the extra info I would have figured it out sooner or later but thanks to your help I know it now not later when I would have to cut something out to make adjustments.

And thanks for not giving the short answer cause now I have a better under standing of how 5th wheels work and will never look at a semi the same way again.
I also checked it out a little on the net but your answer was much clearer and to the point than what I was finding there.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *head lights,fender,wheel well, fifth wheel*
> 
> Worked most of the day but this is all I got done.
> I'll bet I spent 4 hours trying to come up with a descent head light.
> Let me tell you head lights are hard. lol
> Played with the wheel wells and now half of my back safety cage will be cut off to fit. LOL- not funny-
> 
> *I need info on a good distance for the fifth wheel from the cab???*


I had a quick glance at Dutchy's comments and before I realised it was in Dutch, I thought he was commenting about my wife. 
It's bedtime now and I'll let you boys get down to your serious *stuff*.


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *head lights,fender,wheel well, fifth wheel*
> 
> Worked most of the day but this is all I got done.
> I'll bet I spent 4 hours trying to come up with a descent head light.
> Let me tell you head lights are hard. lol
> Played with the wheel wells and now half of my back safety cage will be cut off to fit. LOL- not funny-
> 
> *I need info on a good distance for the fifth wheel from the cab???*


5th wheel???? I thought you were making a long flatbed truck to mount the drilling rig on?

Looking good either way.


----------



## johnstoneb

htl said:


> *head lights,fender,wheel well, fifth wheel*
> 
> Worked most of the day but this is all I got done.
> I'll bet I spent 4 hours trying to come up with a descent head light.
> Let me tell you head lights are hard. lol
> Played with the wheel wells and now half of my back safety cage will be cut off to fit. LOL- not funny-
> 
> *I need info on a good distance for the fifth wheel from the cab???*


Maybe the thing to do is build a trailer to mount the drill rig on. you could park the trailer setup the drill rig then go pickup another trailer load of the frill string.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *head lights,fender,wheel well, fifth wheel*
> 
> Worked most of the day but this is all I got done.
> I'll bet I spent 4 hours trying to come up with a descent head light.
> Let me tell you head lights are hard. lol
> Played with the wheel wells and now half of my back safety cage will be cut off to fit. LOL- not funny-
> 
> *I need info on a good distance for the fifth wheel from the cab???*


I've got to the point where I need to make up my mind. LOL
Joe I was at one point, but the cab of the excavator kinda matchs the truck so thought about a trailer for it.
I don't know which way to go I'm so confused.
I just keep adding to the truck hoping it will tell me what it wants to be.
John that's what I've been leaning toward.
I never seen the well digger on a trailer but over a T&J forum a builder just posted one with it on the low boy trailer.
He did a really nice job on both.
http://toysandjoys.com/bb/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=3614

John on your" It's funny how plans just beg to be modified." 
That's half the fun of building these things is coming up with something different but I must also say that the Toys and joys plans really make building a joy.
I can spend my time as you say changing things not worry about the distance for the 5th wheel. LOL


----------



## htl

*Well I posted her*

Sunday I was working on the truck and it hit me I was done, or as close to done as I was going to get.
So added some hand rub finish and we're finished for now.
I really should have maned up and added mirrors and running lights but once it hit me there was no going any farther???

Here's the project post.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/238722

And here's all the pictures of the build.



















*Notice the wheels as they go up and down the drive shaft follows.
*


----------



## chief101

htl said:


> *Well I posted her*
> 
> Sunday I was working on the truck and it hit me I was done, or as close to done as I was going to get.
> So added some hand rub finish and we're finished for now.
> I really should have maned up and added mirrors and running lights but once it hit me there was no going any farther???
> 
> Here's the project post.
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/238722
> 
> And here's all the pictures of the build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Notice the wheels as they go up and down the drive shaft follows.
> *


Great job. A lot of intricate pieces there.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Well I posted her*
> 
> Sunday I was working on the truck and it hit me I was done, or as close to done as I was going to get.
> So added some hand rub finish and we're finished for now.
> I really should have maned up and added mirrors and running lights but once it hit me there was no going any farther???
> 
> Here's the project post.
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/238722
> 
> And here's all the pictures of the build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Notice the wheels as they go up and down the drive shaft follows.
> *


I found something that will be of use to any builder wanting to add steering to their project.

This would have been quite useful if I had seen it in time.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Well I posted her*
> 
> Sunday I was working on the truck and it hit me I was done, or as close to done as I was going to get.
> So added some hand rub finish and we're finished for now.
> I really should have maned up and added mirrors and running lights but once it hit me there was no going any farther???
> 
> Here's the project post.
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/238722
> 
> And here's all the pictures of the build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Notice the wheels as they go up and down the drive shaft follows.
> *


Thank you Bruce for such a great series of tutorials in your blogs….


----------



## bj383ss

htl said:


> *Well I posted her*
> 
> Sunday I was working on the truck and it hit me I was done, or as close to done as I was going to get.
> So added some hand rub finish and we're finished for now.
> I really should have maned up and added mirrors and running lights but once it hit me there was no going any farther???
> 
> Here's the project post.
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/238722
> 
> And here's all the pictures of the build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Notice the wheels as they go up and down the drive shaft follows.
> *


Fantastic Build. Love those tires. Thanks for adding another to do to my list. 

Bret


----------



## htl

*Coboose #1*

Playing with a caboose this time.
I don't know what I did but the pictures aren't very good so just going to show a quick post of it so any that are interested in building the TOYS AND JOYS caboose can see whats involved.

The Caboose is a very simple fun project and a great way to get started building models.
There's only 2 pages of plans so not as easy to get lost in all the details of one of the bigger plans.

Here are the main parts to the build.










For me framing out the window was a pain but by printing out the plans and hot gluing the parts to the paper plus I used a spacer board to keep the parts in line helped.
Then super gluing them it all worked out.
There must be an easier way but I haven't come up with it yet.

O!!! I might need to mention that I shrunk the plans down.
The T&J is over 12" I cut it down to 9 1/2" which makes the small parts even harder to work with.
It's funny when I was getting ready to build my last truck I was all freaked out at how big it was but if I would have shrunk it down like this caboose it would have been a MUCH harder model to build.

*If your wanting to put details in your models bigger is better.*










As always I can't leave well enough alone and had to add some extras.
There are no plans for the in side but I got reading about cabooses and found the perfect info for filling the in side just like it should be.
This site has a history of the coboose plus great pictures and drawings to get it just right.









http://www.trainsarefun.com/lirr/caboose/N52A/N52A.htm

So off I went building cabinets and bunks stoves and even a sink. LOL




























Got to have hand rails.


















I really should make the top where it comes off to see all the work inside but you'll just have to sneak a look through the windows when it'd done and when you do you'll be back around 1920 or so.




























I've been wanting to build this since I first saw the T&J plans, I built the Shop Smith train plans way back in the early 1980s and it was a ball to build.

This is a simple project and a great starter but with a little research can get quite interesting.
That's all for now folks.


----------



## bj383ss

htl said:


> *Coboose #1*
> 
> Playing with a caboose this time.
> I don't know what I did but the pictures aren't very good so just going to show a quick post of it so any that are interested in building the TOYS AND JOYS caboose can see whats involved.
> 
> The Caboose is a very simple fun project and a great way to get started building models.
> There's only 2 pages of plans so not as easy to get lost in all the details of one of the bigger plans.
> 
> Here are the main parts to the build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For me framing out the window was a pain but by printing out the plans and hot gluing the parts to the paper plus I used a spacer board to keep the parts in line helped.
> Then super gluing them it all worked out.
> There must be an easier way but I haven't come up with it yet.
> 
> O!!! I might need to mention that I shrunk the plans down.
> The T&J is over 12" I cut it down to 9 1/2" which makes the small parts even harder to work with.
> It's funny when I was getting ready to build my last truck I was all freaked out at how big it was but if I would have shrunk it down like this caboose it would have been a MUCH harder model to build.
> 
> *If your wanting to put details in your models bigger is better.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always I can't leave well enough alone and had to add some extras.
> There are no plans for the in side but I got reading about cabooses and found the perfect info for filling the in side just like it should be.
> This site has a history of the coboose plus great pictures and drawings to get it just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.trainsarefun.com/lirr/caboose/N52A/N52A.htm
> 
> So off I went building cabinets and bunks stoves and even a sink. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got to have hand rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really should make the top where it comes off to see all the work inside but you'll just have to sneak a look through the windows when it'd done and when you do you'll be back around 1920 or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been wanting to build this since I first saw the T&J plans, I built the Shop Smith train plans way back in the early 1980s and it was a ball to build.
> 
> This is a simple project and a great starter but with a little research can get quite interesting.
> That's all for now folks.


Looks fantastic. Love all the details you adding on the inside. I would do the same thing. I have to build this to go behind my train some day.

Bret


----------



## sras

htl said:


> *Coboose #1*
> 
> Playing with a caboose this time.
> I don't know what I did but the pictures aren't very good so just going to show a quick post of it so any that are interested in building the TOYS AND JOYS caboose can see whats involved.
> 
> The Caboose is a very simple fun project and a great way to get started building models.
> There's only 2 pages of plans so not as easy to get lost in all the details of one of the bigger plans.
> 
> Here are the main parts to the build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For me framing out the window was a pain but by printing out the plans and hot gluing the parts to the paper plus I used a spacer board to keep the parts in line helped.
> Then super gluing them it all worked out.
> There must be an easier way but I haven't come up with it yet.
> 
> O!!! I might need to mention that I shrunk the plans down.
> The T&J is over 12" I cut it down to 9 1/2" which makes the small parts even harder to work with.
> It's funny when I was getting ready to build my last truck I was all freaked out at how big it was but if I would have shrunk it down like this caboose it would have been a MUCH harder model to build.
> 
> *If your wanting to put details in your models bigger is better.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always I can't leave well enough alone and had to add some extras.
> There are no plans for the in side but I got reading about cabooses and found the perfect info for filling the in side just like it should be.
> This site has a history of the coboose plus great pictures and drawings to get it just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.trainsarefun.com/lirr/caboose/N52A/N52A.htm
> 
> So off I went building cabinets and bunks stoves and even a sink. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got to have hand rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really should make the top where it comes off to see all the work inside but you'll just have to sneak a look through the windows when it'd done and when you do you'll be back around 1920 or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been wanting to build this since I first saw the T&J plans, I built the Shop Smith train plans way back in the early 1980s and it was a ball to build.
> 
> This is a simple project and a great starter but with a little research can get quite interesting.
> That's all for now folks.


Wow!! That's a lot of detail - impressive!


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Coboose #1*
> 
> Playing with a caboose this time.
> I don't know what I did but the pictures aren't very good so just going to show a quick post of it so any that are interested in building the TOYS AND JOYS caboose can see whats involved.
> 
> The Caboose is a very simple fun project and a great way to get started building models.
> There's only 2 pages of plans so not as easy to get lost in all the details of one of the bigger plans.
> 
> Here are the main parts to the build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For me framing out the window was a pain but by printing out the plans and hot gluing the parts to the paper plus I used a spacer board to keep the parts in line helped.
> Then super gluing them it all worked out.
> There must be an easier way but I haven't come up with it yet.
> 
> O!!! I might need to mention that I shrunk the plans down.
> The T&J is over 12" I cut it down to 9 1/2" which makes the small parts even harder to work with.
> It's funny when I was getting ready to build my last truck I was all freaked out at how big it was but if I would have shrunk it down like this caboose it would have been a MUCH harder model to build.
> 
> *If your wanting to put details in your models bigger is better.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always I can't leave well enough alone and had to add some extras.
> There are no plans for the in side but I got reading about cabooses and found the perfect info for filling the in side just like it should be.
> This site has a history of the coboose plus great pictures and drawings to get it just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.trainsarefun.com/lirr/caboose/N52A/N52A.htm
> 
> So off I went building cabinets and bunks stoves and even a sink. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got to have hand rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really should make the top where it comes off to see all the work inside but you'll just have to sneak a look through the windows when it'd done and when you do you'll be back around 1920 or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been wanting to build this since I first saw the T&J plans, I built the Shop Smith train plans way back in the early 1980s and it was a ball to build.
> 
> This is a simple project and a great starter but with a little research can get quite interesting.
> That's all for now folks.


A lot of detail and work. Looks good. When did you started?


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Coboose #1*
> 
> Playing with a caboose this time.
> I don't know what I did but the pictures aren't very good so just going to show a quick post of it so any that are interested in building the TOYS AND JOYS caboose can see whats involved.
> 
> The Caboose is a very simple fun project and a great way to get started building models.
> There's only 2 pages of plans so not as easy to get lost in all the details of one of the bigger plans.
> 
> Here are the main parts to the build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For me framing out the window was a pain but by printing out the plans and hot gluing the parts to the paper plus I used a spacer board to keep the parts in line helped.
> Then super gluing them it all worked out.
> There must be an easier way but I haven't come up with it yet.
> 
> O!!! I might need to mention that I shrunk the plans down.
> The T&J is over 12" I cut it down to 9 1/2" which makes the small parts even harder to work with.
> It's funny when I was getting ready to build my last truck I was all freaked out at how big it was but if I would have shrunk it down like this caboose it would have been a MUCH harder model to build.
> 
> *If your wanting to put details in your models bigger is better.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always I can't leave well enough alone and had to add some extras.
> There are no plans for the in side but I got reading about cabooses and found the perfect info for filling the in side just like it should be.
> This site has a history of the coboose plus great pictures and drawings to get it just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.trainsarefun.com/lirr/caboose/N52A/N52A.htm
> 
> So off I went building cabinets and bunks stoves and even a sink. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got to have hand rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really should make the top where it comes off to see all the work inside but you'll just have to sneak a look through the windows when it'd done and when you do you'll be back around 1920 or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been wanting to build this since I first saw the T&J plans, I built the Shop Smith train plans way back in the early 1980s and it was a ball to build.
> 
> This is a simple project and a great starter but with a little research can get quite interesting.
> That's all for now folks.


Dutchy I usually post after I come in from building but have two days in it so far.
Not counting a day planing and just reading about cabooses and getting a feel for the project.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Coboose #1*
> 
> Playing with a caboose this time.
> I don't know what I did but the pictures aren't very good so just going to show a quick post of it so any that are interested in building the TOYS AND JOYS caboose can see whats involved.
> 
> The Caboose is a very simple fun project and a great way to get started building models.
> There's only 2 pages of plans so not as easy to get lost in all the details of one of the bigger plans.
> 
> Here are the main parts to the build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For me framing out the window was a pain but by printing out the plans and hot gluing the parts to the paper plus I used a spacer board to keep the parts in line helped.
> Then super gluing them it all worked out.
> There must be an easier way but I haven't come up with it yet.
> 
> O!!! I might need to mention that I shrunk the plans down.
> The T&J is over 12" I cut it down to 9 1/2" which makes the small parts even harder to work with.
> It's funny when I was getting ready to build my last truck I was all freaked out at how big it was but if I would have shrunk it down like this caboose it would have been a MUCH harder model to build.
> 
> *If your wanting to put details in your models bigger is better.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always I can't leave well enough alone and had to add some extras.
> There are no plans for the in side but I got reading about cabooses and found the perfect info for filling the in side just like it should be.
> This site has a history of the coboose plus great pictures and drawings to get it just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.trainsarefun.com/lirr/caboose/N52A/N52A.htm
> 
> So off I went building cabinets and bunks stoves and even a sink. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got to have hand rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really should make the top where it comes off to see all the work inside but you'll just have to sneak a look through the windows when it'd done and when you do you'll be back around 1920 or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been wanting to build this since I first saw the T&J plans, I built the Shop Smith train plans way back in the early 1980s and it was a ball to build.
> 
> This is a simple project and a great starter but with a little research can get quite interesting.
> That's all for now folks.


I am impressed. I can see one issue with this… sooner or later you will need to build a train to pull it. Love your detail.. you continually move the goal posts..


----------



## johnstoneb

htl said:


> *Coboose #1*
> 
> Playing with a caboose this time.
> I don't know what I did but the pictures aren't very good so just going to show a quick post of it so any that are interested in building the TOYS AND JOYS caboose can see whats involved.
> 
> The Caboose is a very simple fun project and a great way to get started building models.
> There's only 2 pages of plans so not as easy to get lost in all the details of one of the bigger plans.
> 
> Here are the main parts to the build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For me framing out the window was a pain but by printing out the plans and hot gluing the parts to the paper plus I used a spacer board to keep the parts in line helped.
> Then super gluing them it all worked out.
> There must be an easier way but I haven't come up with it yet.
> 
> O!!! I might need to mention that I shrunk the plans down.
> The T&J is over 12" I cut it down to 9 1/2" which makes the small parts even harder to work with.
> It's funny when I was getting ready to build my last truck I was all freaked out at how big it was but if I would have shrunk it down like this caboose it would have been a MUCH harder model to build.
> 
> *If your wanting to put details in your models bigger is better.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always I can't leave well enough alone and had to add some extras.
> There are no plans for the in side but I got reading about cabooses and found the perfect info for filling the in side just like it should be.
> This site has a history of the coboose plus great pictures and drawings to get it just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.trainsarefun.com/lirr/caboose/N52A/N52A.htm
> 
> So off I went building cabinets and bunks stoves and even a sink. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got to have hand rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really should make the top where it comes off to see all the work inside but you'll just have to sneak a look through the windows when it'd done and when you do you'll be back around 1920 or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been wanting to build this since I first saw the T&J plans, I built the Shop Smith train plans way back in the early 1980s and it was a ball to build.
> 
> This is a simple project and a great starter but with a little research can get quite interesting.
> That's all for now folks.


That is looking great. Love the added detail.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Coboose #1*
> 
> Playing with a caboose this time.
> I don't know what I did but the pictures aren't very good so just going to show a quick post of it so any that are interested in building the TOYS AND JOYS caboose can see whats involved.
> 
> The Caboose is a very simple fun project and a great way to get started building models.
> There's only 2 pages of plans so not as easy to get lost in all the details of one of the bigger plans.
> 
> Here are the main parts to the build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For me framing out the window was a pain but by printing out the plans and hot gluing the parts to the paper plus I used a spacer board to keep the parts in line helped.
> Then super gluing them it all worked out.
> There must be an easier way but I haven't come up with it yet.
> 
> O!!! I might need to mention that I shrunk the plans down.
> The T&J is over 12" I cut it down to 9 1/2" which makes the small parts even harder to work with.
> It's funny when I was getting ready to build my last truck I was all freaked out at how big it was but if I would have shrunk it down like this caboose it would have been a MUCH harder model to build.
> 
> *If your wanting to put details in your models bigger is better.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always I can't leave well enough alone and had to add some extras.
> There are no plans for the in side but I got reading about cabooses and found the perfect info for filling the in side just like it should be.
> This site has a history of the coboose plus great pictures and drawings to get it just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.trainsarefun.com/lirr/caboose/N52A/N52A.htm
> 
> So off I went building cabinets and bunks stoves and even a sink. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got to have hand rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really should make the top where it comes off to see all the work inside but you'll just have to sneak a look through the windows when it'd done and when you do you'll be back around 1920 or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been wanting to build this since I first saw the T&J plans, I built the Shop Smith train plans way back in the early 1980s and it was a ball to build.
> 
> This is a simple project and a great starter but with a little research can get quite interesting.
> That's all for now folks.


Thank you Brian for all the detailed photos and notes, makes the build come alive….

PS - Your woodworking talent and patience are to behold, sir…


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Coboose #1*
> 
> Playing with a caboose this time.
> I don't know what I did but the pictures aren't very good so just going to show a quick post of it so any that are interested in building the TOYS AND JOYS caboose can see whats involved.
> 
> The Caboose is a very simple fun project and a great way to get started building models.
> There's only 2 pages of plans so not as easy to get lost in all the details of one of the bigger plans.
> 
> Here are the main parts to the build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For me framing out the window was a pain but by printing out the plans and hot gluing the parts to the paper plus I used a spacer board to keep the parts in line helped.
> Then super gluing them it all worked out.
> There must be an easier way but I haven't come up with it yet.
> 
> O!!! I might need to mention that I shrunk the plans down.
> The T&J is over 12" I cut it down to 9 1/2" which makes the small parts even harder to work with.
> It's funny when I was getting ready to build my last truck I was all freaked out at how big it was but if I would have shrunk it down like this caboose it would have been a MUCH harder model to build.
> 
> *If your wanting to put details in your models bigger is better.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always I can't leave well enough alone and had to add some extras.
> There are no plans for the in side but I got reading about cabooses and found the perfect info for filling the in side just like it should be.
> This site has a history of the coboose plus great pictures and drawings to get it just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.trainsarefun.com/lirr/caboose/N52A/N52A.htm
> 
> So off I went building cabinets and bunks stoves and even a sink. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got to have hand rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really should make the top where it comes off to see all the work inside but you'll just have to sneak a look through the windows when it'd done and when you do you'll be back around 1920 or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been wanting to build this since I first saw the T&J plans, I built the Shop Smith train plans way back in the early 1980s and it was a ball to build.
> 
> This is a simple project and a great starter but with a little research can get quite interesting.
> That's all for now folks.


Thanks all it is a fun build.
Ducky I'm on the look out for just the right train to go with it but so far I haven't seen one that really catches my imagination.
For most of the older engines I will have to get my lathe skills and tools up and running.
Haven't tried using a lathe sitting down so don't know if it's going to happen, we'll see


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Coboose #1*
> 
> Playing with a caboose this time.
> I don't know what I did but the pictures aren't very good so just going to show a quick post of it so any that are interested in building the TOYS AND JOYS caboose can see whats involved.
> 
> The Caboose is a very simple fun project and a great way to get started building models.
> There's only 2 pages of plans so not as easy to get lost in all the details of one of the bigger plans.
> 
> Here are the main parts to the build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For me framing out the window was a pain but by printing out the plans and hot gluing the parts to the paper plus I used a spacer board to keep the parts in line helped.
> Then super gluing them it all worked out.
> There must be an easier way but I haven't come up with it yet.
> 
> O!!! I might need to mention that I shrunk the plans down.
> The T&J is over 12" I cut it down to 9 1/2" which makes the small parts even harder to work with.
> It's funny when I was getting ready to build my last truck I was all freaked out at how big it was but if I would have shrunk it down like this caboose it would have been a MUCH harder model to build.
> 
> *If your wanting to put details in your models bigger is better.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always I can't leave well enough alone and had to add some extras.
> There are no plans for the in side but I got reading about cabooses and found the perfect info for filling the in side just like it should be.
> This site has a history of the coboose plus great pictures and drawings to get it just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.trainsarefun.com/lirr/caboose/N52A/N52A.htm
> 
> So off I went building cabinets and bunks stoves and even a sink. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got to have hand rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really should make the top where it comes off to see all the work inside but you'll just have to sneak a look through the windows when it'd done and when you do you'll be back around 1920 or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been wanting to build this since I first saw the T&J plans, I built the Shop Smith train plans way back in the early 1980s and it was a ball to build.
> 
> This is a simple project and a great starter but with a little research can get quite interesting.
> That's all for now folks.


If you may be wanting to build a simple train check out the Shop Smith train, as I said I built it years ago and it has some great shapes for working on the lathe.
This is a toy not a model but as always any thing is possible.
http://www.shopsmithhandson.com/archives/sept_oct_02/html/major_project.htm


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Coboose #1*
> 
> Playing with a caboose this time.
> I don't know what I did but the pictures aren't very good so just going to show a quick post of it so any that are interested in building the TOYS AND JOYS caboose can see whats involved.
> 
> The Caboose is a very simple fun project and a great way to get started building models.
> There's only 2 pages of plans so not as easy to get lost in all the details of one of the bigger plans.
> 
> Here are the main parts to the build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For me framing out the window was a pain but by printing out the plans and hot gluing the parts to the paper plus I used a spacer board to keep the parts in line helped.
> Then super gluing them it all worked out.
> There must be an easier way but I haven't come up with it yet.
> 
> O!!! I might need to mention that I shrunk the plans down.
> The T&J is over 12" I cut it down to 9 1/2" which makes the small parts even harder to work with.
> It's funny when I was getting ready to build my last truck I was all freaked out at how big it was but if I would have shrunk it down like this caboose it would have been a MUCH harder model to build.
> 
> *If your wanting to put details in your models bigger is better.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always I can't leave well enough alone and had to add some extras.
> There are no plans for the in side but I got reading about cabooses and found the perfect info for filling the in side just like it should be.
> This site has a history of the coboose plus great pictures and drawings to get it just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.trainsarefun.com/lirr/caboose/N52A/N52A.htm
> 
> So off I went building cabinets and bunks stoves and even a sink. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got to have hand rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really should make the top where it comes off to see all the work inside but you'll just have to sneak a look through the windows when it'd done and when you do you'll be back around 1920 or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been wanting to build this since I first saw the T&J plans, I built the Shop Smith train plans way back in the early 1980s and it was a ball to build.
> 
> This is a simple project and a great starter but with a little research can get quite interesting.
> That's all for now folks.


Bruce, Fortunately (or maybe unfortunately), I bought a few train oriented plans from T&J that should keep me away from pubs for a few months.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Coboose #1*
> 
> Playing with a caboose this time.
> I don't know what I did but the pictures aren't very good so just going to show a quick post of it so any that are interested in building the TOYS AND JOYS caboose can see whats involved.
> 
> The Caboose is a very simple fun project and a great way to get started building models.
> There's only 2 pages of plans so not as easy to get lost in all the details of one of the bigger plans.
> 
> Here are the main parts to the build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For me framing out the window was a pain but by printing out the plans and hot gluing the parts to the paper plus I used a spacer board to keep the parts in line helped.
> Then super gluing them it all worked out.
> There must be an easier way but I haven't come up with it yet.
> 
> O!!! I might need to mention that I shrunk the plans down.
> The T&J is over 12" I cut it down to 9 1/2" which makes the small parts even harder to work with.
> It's funny when I was getting ready to build my last truck I was all freaked out at how big it was but if I would have shrunk it down like this caboose it would have been a MUCH harder model to build.
> 
> *If your wanting to put details in your models bigger is better.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always I can't leave well enough alone and had to add some extras.
> There are no plans for the in side but I got reading about cabooses and found the perfect info for filling the in side just like it should be.
> This site has a history of the coboose plus great pictures and drawings to get it just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.trainsarefun.com/lirr/caboose/N52A/N52A.htm
> 
> So off I went building cabinets and bunks stoves and even a sink. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got to have hand rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really should make the top where it comes off to see all the work inside but you'll just have to sneak a look through the windows when it'd done and when you do you'll be back around 1920 or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been wanting to build this since I first saw the T&J plans, I built the Shop Smith train plans way back in the early 1980s and it was a ball to build.
> 
> This is a simple project and a great starter but with a little research can get quite interesting.
> That's all for now folks.





> Bruce, Fortunately (or maybe unfortunately), I bought a few train oriented plans from T&J that should keep me away from pubs for a few months.
> 
> - LittleBlackDuck


On the railway there always have been pubs or something similar.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Coboose #1*
> 
> Playing with a caboose this time.
> I don't know what I did but the pictures aren't very good so just going to show a quick post of it so any that are interested in building the TOYS AND JOYS caboose can see whats involved.
> 
> The Caboose is a very simple fun project and a great way to get started building models.
> There's only 2 pages of plans so not as easy to get lost in all the details of one of the bigger plans.
> 
> Here are the main parts to the build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For me framing out the window was a pain but by printing out the plans and hot gluing the parts to the paper plus I used a spacer board to keep the parts in line helped.
> Then super gluing them it all worked out.
> There must be an easier way but I haven't come up with it yet.
> 
> O!!! I might need to mention that I shrunk the plans down.
> The T&J is over 12" I cut it down to 9 1/2" which makes the small parts even harder to work with.
> It's funny when I was getting ready to build my last truck I was all freaked out at how big it was but if I would have shrunk it down like this caboose it would have been a MUCH harder model to build.
> 
> *If your wanting to put details in your models bigger is better.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always I can't leave well enough alone and had to add some extras.
> There are no plans for the in side but I got reading about cabooses and found the perfect info for filling the in side just like it should be.
> This site has a history of the coboose plus great pictures and drawings to get it just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.trainsarefun.com/lirr/caboose/N52A/N52A.htm
> 
> So off I went building cabinets and bunks stoves and even a sink. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got to have hand rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really should make the top where it comes off to see all the work inside but you'll just have to sneak a look through the windows when it'd done and when you do you'll be back around 1920 or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been wanting to build this since I first saw the T&J plans, I built the Shop Smith train plans way back in the early 1980s and it was a ball to build.
> 
> This is a simple project and a great starter but with a little research can get quite interesting.
> That's all for now folks.


Alex and Dutchy are you saying I need to build a dining car next with wet Bar??? LOL


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Coboose #1*
> 
> Playing with a caboose this time.
> I don't know what I did but the pictures aren't very good so just going to show a quick post of it so any that are interested in building the TOYS AND JOYS caboose can see whats involved.
> 
> The Caboose is a very simple fun project and a great way to get started building models.
> There's only 2 pages of plans so not as easy to get lost in all the details of one of the bigger plans.
> 
> Here are the main parts to the build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For me framing out the window was a pain but by printing out the plans and hot gluing the parts to the paper plus I used a spacer board to keep the parts in line helped.
> Then super gluing them it all worked out.
> There must be an easier way but I haven't come up with it yet.
> 
> O!!! I might need to mention that I shrunk the plans down.
> The T&J is over 12" I cut it down to 9 1/2" which makes the small parts even harder to work with.
> It's funny when I was getting ready to build my last truck I was all freaked out at how big it was but if I would have shrunk it down like this caboose it would have been a MUCH harder model to build.
> 
> *If your wanting to put details in your models bigger is better.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always I can't leave well enough alone and had to add some extras.
> There are no plans for the in side but I got reading about cabooses and found the perfect info for filling the in side just like it should be.
> This site has a history of the coboose plus great pictures and drawings to get it just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.trainsarefun.com/lirr/caboose/N52A/N52A.htm
> 
> So off I went building cabinets and bunks stoves and even a sink. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got to have hand rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really should make the top where it comes off to see all the work inside but you'll just have to sneak a look through the windows when it'd done and when you do you'll be back around 1920 or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been wanting to build this since I first saw the T&J plans, I built the Shop Smith train plans way back in the early 1980s and it was a ball to build.
> 
> This is a simple project and a great starter but with a little research can get quite interesting.
> That's all for now folks.


Well if we (at least I) didn't…. we are now.. and the first glass is on you!


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Coboose #1*
> 
> Playing with a caboose this time.
> I don't know what I did but the pictures aren't very good so just going to show a quick post of it so any that are interested in building the TOYS AND JOYS caboose can see whats involved.
> 
> The Caboose is a very simple fun project and a great way to get started building models.
> There's only 2 pages of plans so not as easy to get lost in all the details of one of the bigger plans.
> 
> Here are the main parts to the build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For me framing out the window was a pain but by printing out the plans and hot gluing the parts to the paper plus I used a spacer board to keep the parts in line helped.
> Then super gluing them it all worked out.
> There must be an easier way but I haven't come up with it yet.
> 
> O!!! I might need to mention that I shrunk the plans down.
> The T&J is over 12" I cut it down to 9 1/2" which makes the small parts even harder to work with.
> It's funny when I was getting ready to build my last truck I was all freaked out at how big it was but if I would have shrunk it down like this caboose it would have been a MUCH harder model to build.
> 
> *If your wanting to put details in your models bigger is better.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always I can't leave well enough alone and had to add some extras.
> There are no plans for the in side but I got reading about cabooses and found the perfect info for filling the in side just like it should be.
> This site has a history of the coboose plus great pictures and drawings to get it just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.trainsarefun.com/lirr/caboose/N52A/N52A.htm
> 
> So off I went building cabinets and bunks stoves and even a sink. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got to have hand rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really should make the top where it comes off to see all the work inside but you'll just have to sneak a look through the windows when it'd done and when you do you'll be back around 1920 or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been wanting to build this since I first saw the T&J plans, I built the Shop Smith train plans way back in the early 1980s and it was a ball to build.
> 
> This is a simple project and a great starter but with a little research can get quite interesting.
> That's all for now folks.


So this wont be a 37-part build? HAHA

Guess I wont need to get the popcorn out, will I ?  
.
.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Coboose #1*
> 
> Playing with a caboose this time.
> I don't know what I did but the pictures aren't very good so just going to show a quick post of it so any that are interested in building the TOYS AND JOYS caboose can see whats involved.
> 
> The Caboose is a very simple fun project and a great way to get started building models.
> There's only 2 pages of plans so not as easy to get lost in all the details of one of the bigger plans.
> 
> Here are the main parts to the build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For me framing out the window was a pain but by printing out the plans and hot gluing the parts to the paper plus I used a spacer board to keep the parts in line helped.
> Then super gluing them it all worked out.
> There must be an easier way but I haven't come up with it yet.
> 
> O!!! I might need to mention that I shrunk the plans down.
> The T&J is over 12" I cut it down to 9 1/2" which makes the small parts even harder to work with.
> It's funny when I was getting ready to build my last truck I was all freaked out at how big it was but if I would have shrunk it down like this caboose it would have been a MUCH harder model to build.
> 
> *If your wanting to put details in your models bigger is better.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always I can't leave well enough alone and had to add some extras.
> There are no plans for the in side but I got reading about cabooses and found the perfect info for filling the in side just like it should be.
> This site has a history of the coboose plus great pictures and drawings to get it just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.trainsarefun.com/lirr/caboose/N52A/N52A.htm
> 
> So off I went building cabinets and bunks stoves and even a sink. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got to have hand rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really should make the top where it comes off to see all the work inside but you'll just have to sneak a look through the windows when it'd done and when you do you'll be back around 1920 or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been wanting to build this since I first saw the T&J plans, I built the Shop Smith train plans way back in the early 1980s and it was a ball to build.
> 
> This is a simple project and a great starter but with a little research can get quite interesting.
> That's all for now folks.


Pop Corn! Pop Corn!! on a train???
Who ever heard a eating pop corn on a train?
On a* plane*, well maybe
While using a *cane* could happen.
But never ever on a train!!!
Gets it all greasy me thinks.

O!!! and I might add there are 246 parts to this build.
247 if you count the splinter in my finger. OUCH!!!


----------



## helluvawreck

htl said:


> *Coboose #1*
> 
> Playing with a caboose this time.
> I don't know what I did but the pictures aren't very good so just going to show a quick post of it so any that are interested in building the TOYS AND JOYS caboose can see whats involved.
> 
> The Caboose is a very simple fun project and a great way to get started building models.
> There's only 2 pages of plans so not as easy to get lost in all the details of one of the bigger plans.
> 
> Here are the main parts to the build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For me framing out the window was a pain but by printing out the plans and hot gluing the parts to the paper plus I used a spacer board to keep the parts in line helped.
> Then super gluing them it all worked out.
> There must be an easier way but I haven't come up with it yet.
> 
> O!!! I might need to mention that I shrunk the plans down.
> The T&J is over 12" I cut it down to 9 1/2" which makes the small parts even harder to work with.
> It's funny when I was getting ready to build my last truck I was all freaked out at how big it was but if I would have shrunk it down like this caboose it would have been a MUCH harder model to build.
> 
> *If your wanting to put details in your models bigger is better.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always I can't leave well enough alone and had to add some extras.
> There are no plans for the in side but I got reading about cabooses and found the perfect info for filling the in side just like it should be.
> This site has a history of the coboose plus great pictures and drawings to get it just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.trainsarefun.com/lirr/caboose/N52A/N52A.htm
> 
> So off I went building cabinets and bunks stoves and even a sink. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got to have hand rails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> I really should make the top where it comes off to see all the work inside but you'll just have to sneak a look through the windows when it'd done and when you do you'll be back around 1920 or so.
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> 
> I've been wanting to build this since I first saw the T&J plans, I built the Shop Smith train plans way back in the early 1980s and it was a ball to build.
> 
> This is a simple project and a great starter but with a little research can get quite interesting.
> That's all for now folks.


This caboose is coming along beautifully. The detail and craftsmanship of it are amazing.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


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## lizardhead

htl said:


> *Coboose #1*
> 
> Playing with a caboose this time.
> I don't know what I did but the pictures aren't very good so just going to show a quick post of it so any that are interested in building the TOYS AND JOYS caboose can see whats involved.
> 
> The Caboose is a very simple fun project and a great way to get started building models.
> There's only 2 pages of plans so not as easy to get lost in all the details of one of the bigger plans.
> 
> Here are the main parts to the build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> For me framing out the window was a pain but by printing out the plans and hot gluing the parts to the paper plus I used a spacer board to keep the parts in line helped.
> Then super gluing them it all worked out.
> There must be an easier way but I haven't come up with it yet.
> 
> O!!! I might need to mention that I shrunk the plans down.
> The T&J is over 12" I cut it down to 9 1/2" which makes the small parts even harder to work with.
> It's funny when I was getting ready to build my last truck I was all freaked out at how big it was but if I would have shrunk it down like this caboose it would have been a MUCH harder model to build.
> 
> *If your wanting to put details in your models bigger is better.*
> 
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> 
> As always I can't leave well enough alone and had to add some extras.
> There are no plans for the in side but I got reading about cabooses and found the perfect info for filling the in side just like it should be.
> This site has a history of the coboose plus great pictures and drawings to get it just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> http://www.trainsarefun.com/lirr/caboose/N52A/N52A.htm
> 
> So off I went building cabinets and bunks stoves and even a sink. LOL
> 
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> I really should make the top where it comes off to see all the work inside but you'll just have to sneak a look through the windows when it'd done and when you do you'll be back around 1920 or so.
> 
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> 
> I've been wanting to build this since I first saw the T&J plans, I built the Shop Smith train plans way back in the early 1980s and it was a ball to build.
> 
> This is a simple project and a great starter but with a little research can get quite interesting.
> That's all for now folks.


I thought at first you were using ZebraWood, but I see now that you are going for a pleated seat.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Coboose #1*
> 
> Playing with a caboose this time.
> I don't know what I did but the pictures aren't very good so just going to show a quick post of it so any that are interested in building the TOYS AND JOYS caboose can see whats involved.
> 
> The Caboose is a very simple fun project and a great way to get started building models.
> There's only 2 pages of plans so not as easy to get lost in all the details of one of the bigger plans.
> 
> Here are the main parts to the build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For me framing out the window was a pain but by printing out the plans and hot gluing the parts to the paper plus I used a spacer board to keep the parts in line helped.
> Then super gluing them it all worked out.
> There must be an easier way but I haven't come up with it yet.
> 
> O!!! I might need to mention that I shrunk the plans down.
> The T&J is over 12" I cut it down to 9 1/2" which makes the small parts even harder to work with.
> It's funny when I was getting ready to build my last truck I was all freaked out at how big it was but if I would have shrunk it down like this caboose it would have been a MUCH harder model to build.
> 
> *If your wanting to put details in your models bigger is better.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always I can't leave well enough alone and had to add some extras.
> There are no plans for the in side but I got reading about cabooses and found the perfect info for filling the in side just like it should be.
> This site has a history of the coboose plus great pictures and drawings to get it just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.trainsarefun.com/lirr/caboose/N52A/N52A.htm
> 
> So off I went building cabinets and bunks stoves and even a sink. LOL
> 
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> Got to have hand rails.
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> 
> I really should make the top where it comes off to see all the work inside but you'll just have to sneak a look through the windows when it'd done and when you do you'll be back around 1920 or so.
> 
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> 
> I've been wanting to build this since I first saw the T&J plans, I built the Shop Smith train plans way back in the early 1980s and it was a ball to build.
> 
> This is a simple project and a great starter but with a little research can get quite interesting.
> That's all for now folks.


lizardhead This was some wood I had glued up to make springs for my Mack truck and they just didn't work so into the scrap jar till a need came about.
Well I found the need for cushions in the caboose so why not make some really comfy cushions. lol.


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## htl

*Caboose #2*

Just a few more shots.














































Building these ladders was a pain, I don't really have the passions for the really small stuff.


























Almost done.
Will post it tomorrow.
That's all folks


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Caboose #2*
> 
> Just a few more shots.
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> Building these ladders was a pain, I don't really have the passions for the really small stuff.
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> Almost done.
> Will post it tomorrow.
> That's all folks


Hartstikke leuk.


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## johnstoneb

htl said:


> *Caboose #2*
> 
> Just a few more shots.
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> Building these ladders was a pain, I don't really have the passions for the really small stuff.
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> Almost done.
> Will post it tomorrow.
> That's all folks


I like it.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Caboose #2*
> 
> Just a few more shots.
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> Building these ladders was a pain, I don't really have the passions for the really small stuff.
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> Almost done.
> Will post it tomorrow.
> That's all folks


That's two post already and still no beer! At least we have something to admire…. while waiting.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Caboose #2*
> 
> Just a few more shots.
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> Building these ladders was a pain, I don't really have the passions for the really small stuff.
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> Almost done.
> Will post it tomorrow.
> That's all folks


Something just doesn't feel right I'm providing the train car the bar and now you want me to provide the beer too???
Well here's my beer at least it's got my name on it.


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## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Caboose #2*
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> Just a few more shots.
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> Building these ladders was a pain, I don't really have the passions for the really small stuff.
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> Almost done.
> Will post it tomorrow.
> That's all folks





> Well here s my beer *at least it's got my name on it.*
> 
> - htl


Your parents named you "High"??? You must have been born in the drug-crazed '60s !


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## htl

htl said:


> *Caboose #2*
> 
> Just a few more shots.
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> Building these ladders was a pain, I don't really have the passions for the really small stuff.
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> Almost done.
> Will post it tomorrow.
> That's all folks


Laugh out Loud!!!


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## majuvla

htl said:


> *Caboose #2*
> 
> Just a few more shots.
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> Building these ladders was a pain, I don't really have the passions for the really small stuff.
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> Almost done.
> Will post it tomorrow.
> That's all folks


Incredibly detailed presentation.


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## handsawgeek

htl said:


> *Caboose #2*
> 
> Just a few more shots.
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> Building these ladders was a pain, I don't really have the passions for the really small stuff.
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> Almost done.
> Will post it tomorrow.
> That's all folks


Holy Moly !!! This is a very fine project. Excellent detailing and rendition. I'm very impressed with the fully functional wheel trucks.
Big thumbs up from the 'geek' !!!


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## htl

htl said:


> *Caboose #2*
> 
> Just a few more shots.
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> Building these ladders was a pain, I don't really have the passions for the really small stuff.
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> Almost done.
> Will post it tomorrow.
> That's all folks


Thanks all for checking it out and the great comments.
handsawgeek 
If you look at the second picture and see the round spacer glued to the frame *in the plans it is square* and won't let the wheel truck [O that's what it's called DA!!!] turn freely but with a little careful drilling with a hole saw I fixed it, scared to death that I would bugger it up after all this work.


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## bj383ss

htl said:


> *Caboose #2*
> 
> Just a few more shots.
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> Building these ladders was a pain, I don't really have the passions for the really small stuff.
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> Almost done.
> Will post it tomorrow.
> That's all folks


Looks Fantastic!. Are you going to put a finish on it? I really need to get this plan and build it.

Bret


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## handsawgeek

htl said:


> *Caboose #2*
> 
> Just a few more shots.
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> Building these ladders was a pain, I don't really have the passions for the really small stuff.
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> Almost done.
> Will post it tomorrow.
> That's all folks


Sometimes, ya just gotta take a risk to make things better. Glad this one worked out.
Do they have similar plans for the rest of the train?

Too bad we don't see cabooses (cabeese?) on real trains any more. It's so disappointing now days to watch a freight train go by and see it ending with either the last freight car or a push locomotive or two. Understandable, though, because technology has done away with the need for railroad crews.

I think they should still add em' on just for aesthetics!


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## htl

htl said:


> *Caboose #2*
> 
> Just a few more shots.
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> Building these ladders was a pain, I don't really have the passions for the really small stuff.
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> Almost done.
> Will post it tomorrow.
> That's all folks


Bret if and when you order your plans your train was a Gatto I think and their car plans comes with 3 diffrent cars in the kit.
$16 and you get passenger, caboose and cool car, and I think $1 shipping.
T&J is $12 for the caboose plus like $9 shipping.
Cost quite a bit more but they hold your hand with the build a lot more, which I might mention you don't need. LOL
Grizzy has the T&J plans a little cheaper with less postage.
A couple of the old car plans are on sale cheap!!!
From what I remember reading Cabooses died out in the 1980s.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Caboose #2*
> 
> Just a few more shots.
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> Building these ladders was a pain, I don't really have the passions for the really small stuff.
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> Almost done.
> Will post it tomorrow.
> That's all folks





> ... turn freely but ….


Thanks for the heads up. At least it'll be easier to "circle" before the glue up. Now at least the caboose will be able to take those sharp 90° bends to avoid collisions with track debris… I hope you do realise now we'll have to build tracks with bends… and I thought tracks were always straight (like me).


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## htl

htl said:


> *Caboose #2*
> 
> Just a few more shots.
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> Building these ladders was a pain, I don't really have the passions for the really small stuff.
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> Almost done.
> Will post it tomorrow.
> That's all folks


It still can't turn much the wheels will hit the stairs but with out the change I got very little clearance at all could just be the way I did it but I don't think so.
I think the round base has a more professional look to it any way, the square just looks like an after thought..
Just my $.02 and I can't afford any more.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Caboose #2*
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> Just a few more shots.
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> Almost done.
> Will post it tomorrow.
> That's all folks





> .. my $.02 and I can t afford any..


Boy, you are rich.. You speak in $s, I can only afford 2cents (even for large values of 2).


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## htl

*Combined Car train build*

I started to scratch build the T&J passenger car but after some searching around found some thing just that little bit different and an now going with what they call a *Combined Car*.
This is what they used to use when it was a short line that needed to carry people but not enough to need a full car so they would use part of it for a mail car or just about any thing to make it pay for it self.
So this is my main car to get ideas from.

Plus I have it in my head that this is the car Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid blow up when they used too much dynamite trying to get in the safe.
Remember surely you remember it. LOL










I've got two days in it so far and will be using the left over scrapes from the Caboose.
Cherry and walnut are the woods.
So off we go on a wild ride I hope you like it.

Here is the picture I will be using to get the measurements I'll need.
It is a plastic model that is at the right angle to copy and then blow up to the size that I hope will match the caboose.
I ended up enlarging to 158, it took me a few tries to get it right, a great waste of paper but I can still use the other side.









I well need to cut out a lot a windows and wanting them to be as nice as possible I didn't use the scroll saw.

To speed things up a little I cut the top off of the windows, now I can use the miter saw to cut the window sides and will use the band saw for the bottom and then a file to clean it all up.


















Here we are framing the door and windows.
I used the same picture to get the measurements for the windows, just line the picture up and draw some lines no need to figure any of it out it's already done for me.










Adding some trim, this will hide my window cut at the top, it wasn't bad could have left it but just wanted to add so color.










Now on to building doors and here again I used the same trick with the miter saw to get those cleaner lines.
I usually get in a big hurry and glue the side up but for the first time I forced myself to have the windows and doors done before I glued up the sides.
Much easier and I can sand every thing up so much better!!!




































I think I should add here that as I build the different parts I sand them to level every thing out glue on another part sand it level.
Just saying I sand and then sand some more.
By the time I've gotten to this point I should not be needing to sand any thing, all should be right with the world, but then I sand some more. HELP!!!

Finally to the fun stuff!!!












































Now I'm ready to start the top and I do beleave that it is the hardest part to this build, at least for me.
I have no plans to go by and really haven't found any really good pictures showing the end of the car, so will be scratching my head a lot on this.





































Before I go any farther I need to sleep on this last part, I want to get the two levels blended just right if I can and it's been a long day.

That's all folks.
Sorry it was so long but yesterday I just didn't feel like I had enough done to post.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Combined Car train build*
> 
> I started to scratch build the T&J passenger car but after some searching around found some thing just that little bit different and an now going with what they call a *Combined Car*.
> This is what they used to use when it was a short line that needed to carry people but not enough to need a full car so they would use part of it for a mail car or just about any thing to make it pay for it self.
> So this is my main car to get ideas from.
> 
> Plus I have it in my head that this is the car Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid blow up when they used too much dynamite trying to get in the safe.
> Remember surely you remember it. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got two days in it so far and will be using the left over scrapes from the Caboose.
> Cherry and walnut are the woods.
> So off we go on a wild ride I hope you like it.
> 
> Here is the picture I will be using to get the measurements I'll need.
> It is a plastic model that is at the right angle to copy and then blow up to the size that I hope will match the caboose.
> I ended up enlarging to 158, it took me a few tries to get it right, a great waste of paper but I can still use the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I well need to cut out a lot a windows and wanting them to be as nice as possible I didn't use the scroll saw.
> 
> To speed things up a little I cut the top off of the windows, now I can use the miter saw to cut the window sides and will use the band saw for the bottom and then a file to clean it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are framing the door and windows.
> I used the same picture to get the measurements for the windows, just line the picture up and draw some lines no need to figure any of it out it's already done for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adding some trim, this will hide my window cut at the top, it wasn't bad could have left it but just wanted to add so color.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to building doors and here again I used the same trick with the miter saw to get those cleaner lines.
> I usually get in a big hurry and glue the side up but for the first time I forced myself to have the windows and doors done before I glued up the sides.
> Much easier and I can sand every thing up so much better!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I should add here that as I build the different parts I sand them to level every thing out glue on another part sand it level.
> Just saying I sand and then sand some more.
> By the time I've gotten to this point I should not be needing to sand any thing, all should be right with the world, but then I sand some more. HELP!!!
> 
> Finally to the fun stuff!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to start the top and I do beleave that it is the hardest part to this build, at least for me.
> I have no plans to go by and really haven't found any really good pictures showing the end of the car, so will be scratching my head a lot on this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I go any farther I need to sleep on this last part, I want to get the two levels blended just right if I can and it's been a long day.
> 
> That's all folks.
> Sorry it was so long but yesterday I just didn't feel like I had enough done to post.


Remember now???


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Combined Car train build*
> 
> I started to scratch build the T&J passenger car but after some searching around found some thing just that little bit different and an now going with what they call a *Combined Car*.
> This is what they used to use when it was a short line that needed to carry people but not enough to need a full car so they would use part of it for a mail car or just about any thing to make it pay for it self.
> So this is my main car to get ideas from.
> 
> Plus I have it in my head that this is the car Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid blow up when they used too much dynamite trying to get in the safe.
> Remember surely you remember it. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got two days in it so far and will be using the left over scrapes from the Caboose.
> Cherry and walnut are the woods.
> So off we go on a wild ride I hope you like it.
> 
> Here is the picture I will be using to get the measurements I'll need.
> It is a plastic model that is at the right angle to copy and then blow up to the size that I hope will match the caboose.
> I ended up enlarging to 158, it took me a few tries to get it right, a great waste of paper but I can still use the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I well need to cut out a lot a windows and wanting them to be as nice as possible I didn't use the scroll saw.
> 
> To speed things up a little I cut the top off of the windows, now I can use the miter saw to cut the window sides and will use the band saw for the bottom and then a file to clean it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are framing the door and windows.
> I used the same picture to get the measurements for the windows, just line the picture up and draw some lines no need to figure any of it out it's already done for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adding some trim, this will hide my window cut at the top, it wasn't bad could have left it but just wanted to add so color.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to building doors and here again I used the same trick with the miter saw to get those cleaner lines.
> I usually get in a big hurry and glue the side up but for the first time I forced myself to have the windows and doors done before I glued up the sides.
> Much easier and I can sand every thing up so much better!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I should add here that as I build the different parts I sand them to level every thing out glue on another part sand it level.
> Just saying I sand and then sand some more.
> By the time I've gotten to this point I should not be needing to sand any thing, all should be right with the world, but then I sand some more. HELP!!!
> 
> Finally to the fun stuff!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to start the top and I do beleave that it is the hardest part to this build, at least for me.
> I have no plans to go by and really haven't found any really good pictures showing the end of the car, so will be scratching my head a lot on this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I go any farther I need to sleep on this last part, I want to get the two levels blended just right if I can and it's been a long day.
> 
> That's all folks.
> Sorry it was so long but yesterday I just didn't feel like I had enough done to post.


Looking good !!

.
.
I think You need one of these ! 
.


----------



## builtinbkyn

htl said:


> *Combined Car train build*
> 
> I started to scratch build the T&J passenger car but after some searching around found some thing just that little bit different and an now going with what they call a *Combined Car*.
> This is what they used to use when it was a short line that needed to carry people but not enough to need a full car so they would use part of it for a mail car or just about any thing to make it pay for it self.
> So this is my main car to get ideas from.
> 
> Plus I have it in my head that this is the car Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid blow up when they used too much dynamite trying to get in the safe.
> Remember surely you remember it. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got two days in it so far and will be using the left over scrapes from the Caboose.
> Cherry and walnut are the woods.
> So off we go on a wild ride I hope you like it.
> 
> Here is the picture I will be using to get the measurements I'll need.
> It is a plastic model that is at the right angle to copy and then blow up to the size that I hope will match the caboose.
> I ended up enlarging to 158, it took me a few tries to get it right, a great waste of paper but I can still use the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I well need to cut out a lot a windows and wanting them to be as nice as possible I didn't use the scroll saw.
> 
> To speed things up a little I cut the top off of the windows, now I can use the miter saw to cut the window sides and will use the band saw for the bottom and then a file to clean it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are framing the door and windows.
> I used the same picture to get the measurements for the windows, just line the picture up and draw some lines no need to figure any of it out it's already done for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adding some trim, this will hide my window cut at the top, it wasn't bad could have left it but just wanted to add so color.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to building doors and here again I used the same trick with the miter saw to get those cleaner lines.
> I usually get in a big hurry and glue the side up but for the first time I forced myself to have the windows and doors done before I glued up the sides.
> Much easier and I can sand every thing up so much better!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I should add here that as I build the different parts I sand them to level every thing out glue on another part sand it level.
> Just saying I sand and then sand some more.
> By the time I've gotten to this point I should not be needing to sand any thing, all should be right with the world, but then I sand some more. HELP!!!
> 
> Finally to the fun stuff!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to start the top and I do beleave that it is the hardest part to this build, at least for me.
> I have no plans to go by and really haven't found any really good pictures showing the end of the car, so will be scratching my head a lot on this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I go any farther I need to sleep on this last part, I want to get the two levels blended just right if I can and it's been a long day.
> 
> That's all folks.
> Sorry it was so long but yesterday I just didn't feel like I had enough done to post.


That is going to look great. I've seen a few train builds here on LJs and have yet to do one myself. I'm a railroad fan (Pessny) and collect O scale brass. I think I'll have to start planning on building a Pennsylvania RR N6b cabin car (aka caboose)


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Combined Car train build*
> 
> I started to scratch build the T&J passenger car but after some searching around found some thing just that little bit different and an now going with what they call a *Combined Car*.
> This is what they used to use when it was a short line that needed to carry people but not enough to need a full car so they would use part of it for a mail car or just about any thing to make it pay for it self.
> So this is my main car to get ideas from.
> 
> Plus I have it in my head that this is the car Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid blow up when they used too much dynamite trying to get in the safe.
> Remember surely you remember it. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got two days in it so far and will be using the left over scrapes from the Caboose.
> Cherry and walnut are the woods.
> So off we go on a wild ride I hope you like it.
> 
> Here is the picture I will be using to get the measurements I'll need.
> It is a plastic model that is at the right angle to copy and then blow up to the size that I hope will match the caboose.
> I ended up enlarging to 158, it took me a few tries to get it right, a great waste of paper but I can still use the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I well need to cut out a lot a windows and wanting them to be as nice as possible I didn't use the scroll saw.
> 
> To speed things up a little I cut the top off of the windows, now I can use the miter saw to cut the window sides and will use the band saw for the bottom and then a file to clean it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are framing the door and windows.
> I used the same picture to get the measurements for the windows, just line the picture up and draw some lines no need to figure any of it out it's already done for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adding some trim, this will hide my window cut at the top, it wasn't bad could have left it but just wanted to add so color.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to building doors and here again I used the same trick with the miter saw to get those cleaner lines.
> I usually get in a big hurry and glue the side up but for the first time I forced myself to have the windows and doors done before I glued up the sides.
> Much easier and I can sand every thing up so much better!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I should add here that as I build the different parts I sand them to level every thing out glue on another part sand it level.
> Just saying I sand and then sand some more.
> By the time I've gotten to this point I should not be needing to sand any thing, all should be right with the world, but then I sand some more. HELP!!!
> 
> Finally to the fun stuff!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to start the top and I do beleave that it is the hardest part to this build, at least for me.
> I have no plans to go by and really haven't found any really good pictures showing the end of the car, so will be scratching my head a lot on this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I go any farther I need to sleep on this last part, I want to get the two levels blended just right if I can and it's been a long day.
> 
> That's all folks.
> Sorry it was so long but yesterday I just didn't feel like I had enough done to post.


Joe that's it just what I've been needing but I want it in a saw dust color me thinks.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Combined Car train build*
> 
> I started to scratch build the T&J passenger car but after some searching around found some thing just that little bit different and an now going with what they call a *Combined Car*.
> This is what they used to use when it was a short line that needed to carry people but not enough to need a full car so they would use part of it for a mail car or just about any thing to make it pay for it self.
> So this is my main car to get ideas from.
> 
> Plus I have it in my head that this is the car Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid blow up when they used too much dynamite trying to get in the safe.
> Remember surely you remember it. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got two days in it so far and will be using the left over scrapes from the Caboose.
> Cherry and walnut are the woods.
> So off we go on a wild ride I hope you like it.
> 
> Here is the picture I will be using to get the measurements I'll need.
> It is a plastic model that is at the right angle to copy and then blow up to the size that I hope will match the caboose.
> I ended up enlarging to 158, it took me a few tries to get it right, a great waste of paper but I can still use the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I well need to cut out a lot a windows and wanting them to be as nice as possible I didn't use the scroll saw.
> 
> To speed things up a little I cut the top off of the windows, now I can use the miter saw to cut the window sides and will use the band saw for the bottom and then a file to clean it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are framing the door and windows.
> I used the same picture to get the measurements for the windows, just line the picture up and draw some lines no need to figure any of it out it's already done for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adding some trim, this will hide my window cut at the top, it wasn't bad could have left it but just wanted to add so color.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to building doors and here again I used the same trick with the miter saw to get those cleaner lines.
> I usually get in a big hurry and glue the side up but for the first time I forced myself to have the windows and doors done before I glued up the sides.
> Much easier and I can sand every thing up so much better!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I should add here that as I build the different parts I sand them to level every thing out glue on another part sand it level.
> Just saying I sand and then sand some more.
> By the time I've gotten to this point I should not be needing to sand any thing, all should be right with the world, but then I sand some more. HELP!!!
> 
> Finally to the fun stuff!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to start the top and I do beleave that it is the hardest part to this build, at least for me.
> I have no plans to go by and really haven't found any really good pictures showing the end of the car, so will be scratching my head a lot on this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I go any farther I need to sleep on this last part, I want to get the two levels blended just right if I can and it's been a long day.
> 
> That's all folks.
> Sorry it was so long but yesterday I just didn't feel like I had enough done to post.


Very nice. I commend you on your ingenuity and foresight to make a special room for the bar…


----------



## johnstoneb

htl said:


> *Combined Car train build*
> 
> I started to scratch build the T&J passenger car but after some searching around found some thing just that little bit different and an now going with what they call a *Combined Car*.
> This is what they used to use when it was a short line that needed to carry people but not enough to need a full car so they would use part of it for a mail car or just about any thing to make it pay for it self.
> So this is my main car to get ideas from.
> 
> Plus I have it in my head that this is the car Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid blow up when they used too much dynamite trying to get in the safe.
> Remember surely you remember it. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got two days in it so far and will be using the left over scrapes from the Caboose.
> Cherry and walnut are the woods.
> So off we go on a wild ride I hope you like it.
> 
> Here is the picture I will be using to get the measurements I'll need.
> It is a plastic model that is at the right angle to copy and then blow up to the size that I hope will match the caboose.
> I ended up enlarging to 158, it took me a few tries to get it right, a great waste of paper but I can still use the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I well need to cut out a lot a windows and wanting them to be as nice as possible I didn't use the scroll saw.
> 
> To speed things up a little I cut the top off of the windows, now I can use the miter saw to cut the window sides and will use the band saw for the bottom and then a file to clean it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are framing the door and windows.
> I used the same picture to get the measurements for the windows, just line the picture up and draw some lines no need to figure any of it out it's already done for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adding some trim, this will hide my window cut at the top, it wasn't bad could have left it but just wanted to add so color.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to building doors and here again I used the same trick with the miter saw to get those cleaner lines.
> I usually get in a big hurry and glue the side up but for the first time I forced myself to have the windows and doors done before I glued up the sides.
> Much easier and I can sand every thing up so much better!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I should add here that as I build the different parts I sand them to level every thing out glue on another part sand it level.
> Just saying I sand and then sand some more.
> By the time I've gotten to this point I should not be needing to sand any thing, all should be right with the world, but then I sand some more. HELP!!!
> 
> Finally to the fun stuff!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to start the top and I do beleave that it is the hardest part to this build, at least for me.
> I have no plans to go by and really haven't found any really good pictures showing the end of the car, so will be scratching my head a lot on this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I go any farther I need to sleep on this last part, I want to get the two levels blended just right if I can and it's been a long day.
> 
> That's all folks.
> Sorry it was so long but yesterday I just didn't feel like I had enough done to post.


Looking forward to following this build.


----------



## bj383ss

htl said:


> *Combined Car train build*
> 
> I started to scratch build the T&J passenger car but after some searching around found some thing just that little bit different and an now going with what they call a *Combined Car*.
> This is what they used to use when it was a short line that needed to carry people but not enough to need a full car so they would use part of it for a mail car or just about any thing to make it pay for it self.
> So this is my main car to get ideas from.
> 
> Plus I have it in my head that this is the car Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid blow up when they used too much dynamite trying to get in the safe.
> Remember surely you remember it. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got two days in it so far and will be using the left over scrapes from the Caboose.
> Cherry and walnut are the woods.
> So off we go on a wild ride I hope you like it.
> 
> Here is the picture I will be using to get the measurements I'll need.
> It is a plastic model that is at the right angle to copy and then blow up to the size that I hope will match the caboose.
> I ended up enlarging to 158, it took me a few tries to get it right, a great waste of paper but I can still use the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I well need to cut out a lot a windows and wanting them to be as nice as possible I didn't use the scroll saw.
> 
> To speed things up a little I cut the top off of the windows, now I can use the miter saw to cut the window sides and will use the band saw for the bottom and then a file to clean it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are framing the door and windows.
> I used the same picture to get the measurements for the windows, just line the picture up and draw some lines no need to figure any of it out it's already done for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adding some trim, this will hide my window cut at the top, it wasn't bad could have left it but just wanted to add so color.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to building doors and here again I used the same trick with the miter saw to get those cleaner lines.
> I usually get in a big hurry and glue the side up but for the first time I forced myself to have the windows and doors done before I glued up the sides.
> Much easier and I can sand every thing up so much better!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I should add here that as I build the different parts I sand them to level every thing out glue on another part sand it level.
> Just saying I sand and then sand some more.
> By the time I've gotten to this point I should not be needing to sand any thing, all should be right with the world, but then I sand some more. HELP!!!
> 
> Finally to the fun stuff!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to start the top and I do beleave that it is the hardest part to this build, at least for me.
> I have no plans to go by and really haven't found any really good pictures showing the end of the car, so will be scratching my head a lot on this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I go any farther I need to sleep on this last part, I want to get the two levels blended just right if I can and it's been a long day.
> 
> That's all folks.
> Sorry it was so long but yesterday I just didn't feel like I had enough done to post.


Another great build.

Bret


----------



## Dee1

htl said:


> *Combined Car train build*
> 
> I started to scratch build the T&J passenger car but after some searching around found some thing just that little bit different and an now going with what they call a *Combined Car*.
> This is what they used to use when it was a short line that needed to carry people but not enough to need a full car so they would use part of it for a mail car or just about any thing to make it pay for it self.
> So this is my main car to get ideas from.
> 
> Plus I have it in my head that this is the car Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid blow up when they used too much dynamite trying to get in the safe.
> Remember surely you remember it. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got two days in it so far and will be using the left over scrapes from the Caboose.
> Cherry and walnut are the woods.
> So off we go on a wild ride I hope you like it.
> 
> Here is the picture I will be using to get the measurements I'll need.
> It is a plastic model that is at the right angle to copy and then blow up to the size that I hope will match the caboose.
> I ended up enlarging to 158, it took me a few tries to get it right, a great waste of paper but I can still use the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I well need to cut out a lot a windows and wanting them to be as nice as possible I didn't use the scroll saw.
> 
> To speed things up a little I cut the top off of the windows, now I can use the miter saw to cut the window sides and will use the band saw for the bottom and then a file to clean it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are framing the door and windows.
> I used the same picture to get the measurements for the windows, just line the picture up and draw some lines no need to figure any of it out it's already done for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adding some trim, this will hide my window cut at the top, it wasn't bad could have left it but just wanted to add so color.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to building doors and here again I used the same trick with the miter saw to get those cleaner lines.
> I usually get in a big hurry and glue the side up but for the first time I forced myself to have the windows and doors done before I glued up the sides.
> Much easier and I can sand every thing up so much better!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I should add here that as I build the different parts I sand them to level every thing out glue on another part sand it level.
> Just saying I sand and then sand some more.
> By the time I've gotten to this point I should not be needing to sand any thing, all should be right with the world, but then I sand some more. HELP!!!
> 
> Finally to the fun stuff!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to start the top and I do beleave that it is the hardest part to this build, at least for me.
> I have no plans to go by and really haven't found any really good pictures showing the end of the car, so will be scratching my head a lot on this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I go any farther I need to sleep on this last part, I want to get the two levels blended just right if I can and it's been a long day.
> 
> That's all folks.
> Sorry it was so long but yesterday I just didn't feel like I had enough done to post.


Very nice I am looking fwd to the rest of the build


----------



## htl

*Combined Car train build #2*

Working on the roof 
Still having fun trying to get a feel for the roof shape and just not happy with it but the builds not over yet.

First I wanted to get the wheels put together so I would be able to see it in it's full shape.
I left the tongues long so I could adjust it if need be later.
The caboose felt like they were a little short so will be able to adjust for that by making these a tad longer if need be.









Gluing up the roof and over head windows.


















Now I'm just shaving off small bits at a time trying to see the shape .
Want a little over hang but not to much, but how much is too much.









Now I can start to get a feel for what the roof needs.
This is where to toys and joys plans really shine, just copy the full size drawings and it's done and right for their version.


















This is my high tec rounder maker.









I know this doesn't look like much but I've got a bold spot where I've been scratching my head trying to figure this one out.
That's all folks


----------



## bj383ss

htl said:


> *Combined Car train build #2*
> 
> Working on the roof
> Still having fun trying to get a feel for the roof shape and just not happy with it but the builds not over yet.
> 
> First I wanted to get the wheels put together so I would be able to see it in it's full shape.
> I left the tongues long so I could adjust it if need be later.
> The caboose felt like they were a little short so will be able to adjust for that by making these a tad longer if need be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing up the roof and over head windows.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm just shaving off small bits at a time trying to see the shape .
> Want a little over hang but not to much, but how much is too much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can start to get a feel for what the roof needs.
> This is where to toys and joys plans really shine, just copy the full size drawings and it's done and right for their version.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my high tec rounder maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know this doesn't look like much but I've got a bold spot where I've been scratching my head trying to figure this one out.
> That's all folks


Looking good.

Bret


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Combined Car train build #2*
> 
> Working on the roof
> Still having fun trying to get a feel for the roof shape and just not happy with it but the builds not over yet.
> 
> First I wanted to get the wheels put together so I would be able to see it in it's full shape.
> I left the tongues long so I could adjust it if need be later.
> The caboose felt like they were a little short so will be able to adjust for that by making these a tad longer if need be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing up the roof and over head windows.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm just shaving off small bits at a time trying to see the shape .
> Want a little over hang but not to much, but how much is too much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can start to get a feel for what the roof needs.
> This is where to toys and joys plans really shine, just copy the full size drawings and it's done and right for their version.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my high tec rounder maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know this doesn't look like much but I've got a bold spot where I've been scratching my head trying to figure this one out.
> That's all folks


Bret that roof is giving me fits.
Afraid I may have rounded it too much.
Ideas any one.
Would love to see how T&J showed getting er done. HINT HINT


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Combined Car train build #2*
> 
> Working on the roof
> Still having fun trying to get a feel for the roof shape and just not happy with it but the builds not over yet.
> 
> First I wanted to get the wheels put together so I would be able to see it in it's full shape.
> I left the tongues long so I could adjust it if need be later.
> The caboose felt like they were a little short so will be able to adjust for that by making these a tad longer if need be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing up the roof and over head windows.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm just shaving off small bits at a time trying to see the shape .
> Want a little over hang but not to much, but how much is too much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can start to get a feel for what the roof needs.
> This is where to toys and joys plans really shine, just copy the full size drawings and it's done and right for their version.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my high tec rounder maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know this doesn't look like much but I've got a bold spot where I've been scratching my head trying to figure this one out.
> That's all folks


I can hardly wait I ordered the coil burner train from T&J.
If I would have known I was going to be getting the engine I would have built the caboose full size now I'll need to shrink the engine down to fit but then again if I don't shrink it the train and cars will need a whole wall to show them off.

I love the chimney on the wood burner train but it only has 2 drive wheels on a side where the coil burner has 3 and to me gives it a nicer look, would any one tell if I put the wood burner chimney on my coil burner. LOL

There's some thing about having the plans in hand, I just love reading and figuring out plans, it's like building a puzzle but you have to make the part to fit..


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Combined Car train build #2*
> 
> Working on the roof
> Still having fun trying to get a feel for the roof shape and just not happy with it but the builds not over yet.
> 
> First I wanted to get the wheels put together so I would be able to see it in it's full shape.
> I left the tongues long so I could adjust it if need be later.
> The caboose felt like they were a little short so will be able to adjust for that by making these a tad longer if need be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing up the roof and over head windows.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm just shaving off small bits at a time trying to see the shape .
> Want a little over hang but not to much, but how much is too much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can start to get a feel for what the roof needs.
> This is where to toys and joys plans really shine, just copy the full size drawings and it's done and right for their version.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my high tec rounder maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know this doesn't look like much but I've got a bold spot where I've been scratching my head trying to figure this one out.
> That's all folks





> ... only has 2 drive wheels on a side where the coil burner has 3…


That was my sole reason for buying the coal. I also agree the wood chimney looks better, however, as you mused, no one else would know… Even I would forget by the time it was finished (unless you built it in 1 day).



> ...will need a whole wall to show them off…


I've given up on thoughts about wall/cabinet sizes. In the words of Brody (Roy Scheider in Jaws) "You're Gonna Need a Bigger House"!


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Combined Car train build #2*
> 
> Working on the roof
> Still having fun trying to get a feel for the roof shape and just not happy with it but the builds not over yet.
> 
> First I wanted to get the wheels put together so I would be able to see it in it's full shape.
> I left the tongues long so I could adjust it if need be later.
> The caboose felt like they were a little short so will be able to adjust for that by making these a tad longer if need be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing up the roof and over head windows.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm just shaving off small bits at a time trying to see the shape .
> Want a little over hang but not to much, but how much is too much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can start to get a feel for what the roof needs.
> This is where to toys and joys plans really shine, just copy the full size drawings and it's done and right for their version.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my high tec rounder maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know this doesn't look like much but I've got a bold spot where I've been scratching my head trying to figure this one out.
> That's all folks





> I can hardly wait I ordered the coil burner train from T&J.
> 
> - htl


Thia means that you will start using the SS as a lathe.

I;m not (yet) in for making a train but I can hardly wait to see your blogs.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Combined Car train build #2*
> 
> Working on the roof
> Still having fun trying to get a feel for the roof shape and just not happy with it but the builds not over yet.
> 
> First I wanted to get the wheels put together so I would be able to see it in it's full shape.
> I left the tongues long so I could adjust it if need be later.
> The caboose felt like they were a little short so will be able to adjust for that by making these a tad longer if need be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing up the roof and over head windows.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm just shaving off small bits at a time trying to see the shape .
> Want a little over hang but not to much, but how much is too much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can start to get a feel for what the roof needs.
> This is where to toys and joys plans really shine, just copy the full size drawings and it's done and right for their version.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my high tec rounder maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know this doesn't look like much but I've got a bold spot where I've been scratching my head trying to figure this one out.
> That's all folks


Ducky It just hit me how it works you do like the Barbers motor cycle museum, they just put some of their collection up at a time and switch it around ever so often.
Corse you still got to have space to store them. lol

Dutchy One of my first projects I built when I first set up my very small 10' by 10' shop and got my new SS back in 1983 was build the SS's train plan.
The thing is the SS train had a much shapelier boiler and smoke stack, may have to try and do something about that [You know me by now]








This isn't the one I made.
This train was a ball to build at a much simpler time.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Combined Car train build #2*
> 
> Working on the roof
> Still having fun trying to get a feel for the roof shape and just not happy with it but the builds not over yet.
> 
> First I wanted to get the wheels put together so I would be able to see it in it's full shape.
> I left the tongues long so I could adjust it if need be later.
> The caboose felt like they were a little short so will be able to adjust for that by making these a tad longer if need be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing up the roof and over head windows.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm just shaving off small bits at a time trying to see the shape .
> Want a little over hang but not to much, but how much is too much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can start to get a feel for what the roof needs.
> This is where to toys and joys plans really shine, just copy the full size drawings and it's done and right for their version.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my high tec rounder maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know this doesn't look like much but I've got a bold spot where I've been scratching my head trying to figure this one out.
> That's all folks


I'm hoping once I get the hand rails and steps on and add it will look ok.
Wanting to start the roof over but just hate to, running out of walnut.
I have been making extra wheels and wheel trucks I think it was called so if the engine doesn't show up may still build the cattle car, would be much simpler but theirs something about making the cage or box that is calling me.

*That's one thing about building* a train it *pays to not think one project at a time *when it comes to parts.
Many of the frame and trucks or wheel systems work for more than one build so when your saws set up cut extra parts and the same will be true for the drilling.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Combined Car train build #2*
> 
> Working on the roof
> Still having fun trying to get a feel for the roof shape and just not happy with it but the builds not over yet.
> 
> First I wanted to get the wheels put together so I would be able to see it in it's full shape.
> I left the tongues long so I could adjust it if need be later.
> The caboose felt like they were a little short so will be able to adjust for that by making these a tad longer if need be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing up the roof and over head windows.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm just shaving off small bits at a time trying to see the shape .
> Want a little over hang but not to much, but how much is too much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can start to get a feel for what the roof needs.
> This is where to toys and joys plans really shine, just copy the full size drawings and it's done and right for their version.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my high tec rounder maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know this doesn't look like much but I've got a bold spot where I've been scratching my head trying to figure this one out.
> That's all folks


I found my cattle car plans.









And when I printed them out they were just the right size for my build.
May shorten them up a bit their 13" long at this stunk size.
I'll just take a section out of each side [1 1/2"] and that will get er done.
If this was T&J size it could easily be 18".
*
Now how cool is that???*


----------



## htl

*Combined Car train build #3*

Feeling a little better about the roof done a lot but it doesn't show much at this stage.
I've got these major part glued up and needing to just shave or flatten it and one false move and I'm going to be starting over.
I thought this was supposed to be relaxing.
Can you say sand sand sand.












































I haven't glued the roof on yet need to do a search on seating and* yes Alex the bar MAYBE???*


----------



## bj383ss

htl said:


> *Combined Car train build #3*
> 
> Feeling a little better about the roof done a lot but it doesn't show much at this stage.
> I've got these major part glued up and needing to just shave or flatten it and one false move and I'm going to be starting over.
> I thought this was supposed to be relaxing.
> Can you say sand sand sand.
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> I haven't glued the roof on yet need to do a search on seating and* yes Alex the bar MAYBE???*


I think the shape of the roof looks great. But I know how you feel. When I built the cabin to my train I completely scraped the whole first cab I made because I was not happy with it.

Bret


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## htl

htl said:


> *Combined Car train build #3*
> 
> Feeling a little better about the roof done a lot but it doesn't show much at this stage.
> I've got these major part glued up and needing to just shave or flatten it and one false move and I'm going to be starting over.
> I thought this was supposed to be relaxing.
> Can you say sand sand sand.
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> I haven't glued the roof on yet need to do a search on seating and* yes Alex the bar MAYBE???*


Thanks Bret!


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Combined Car train build #3*
> 
> Feeling a little better about the roof done a lot but it doesn't show much at this stage.
> I've got these major part glued up and needing to just shave or flatten it and one false move and I'm going to be starting over.
> I thought this was supposed to be relaxing.
> Can you say sand sand sand.
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> I haven't glued the roof on yet need to do a search on seating and* yes Alex the bar MAYBE???*


Thanks… Hic!


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## htl

htl said:


> *Combined Car train build #3*
> 
> Feeling a little better about the roof done a lot but it doesn't show much at this stage.
> I've got these major part glued up and needing to just shave or flatten it and one false move and I'm going to be starting over.
> I thought this was supposed to be relaxing.
> Can you say sand sand sand.
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> I haven't glued the roof on yet need to do a search on seating and* yes Alex the bar MAYBE???*


Bret that got me to thinking and I did the same thing when I built my excavator.
The cabin was nearly done and I just wanted a more modern looking cabin.
OLD








NEW









Much better me thinks.
It's funny but T&J just last week came out with a newer more modern looking excavator.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Combined Car train build #3*
> 
> Feeling a little better about the roof done a lot but it doesn't show much at this stage.
> I've got these major part glued up and needing to just shave or flatten it and one false move and I'm going to be starting over.
> I thought this was supposed to be relaxing.
> Can you say sand sand sand.
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> I haven't glued the roof on yet need to do a search on seating and* yes Alex the bar MAYBE???*


Bruce, you are certain one clever thinking woodworker and toymaker; thank you for the blogs, much appreciated.


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## htl

*Combined Car train build #4*

Well we're getting close to moving in so bring the fork lift we got a load a freight to haul but it just hit me I ain't got no ENGINE YET.

Wheels check.









Stairs check how do I know it's on the side.










Just not getting my fingers in there by that band saw blade with these little bity parts.!!!
My fingers are so far away you don't even see them. lol



























Here's what we're going to be hauling, a load of gears and a grind stone for a water mill.
You may have noticed that we have the government required spittoon in the corner.









In the passenger area nice comfy chairs and again the required spittoon over by the well stocked BAR[Alex].


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## htl

htl said:


> *Combined Car train build #4*
> 
> Well we're getting close to moving in so bring the fork lift we got a load a freight to haul but it just hit me I ain't got no ENGINE YET.
> 
> Wheels check.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stairs check how do I know it's on the side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just not getting my fingers in there by that band saw blade with these little bity parts.!!!
> My fingers are so far away you don't even see them. lol
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Here's what we're going to be hauling, a load of gears and a grind stone for a water mill.
> You may have noticed that we have the government required spittoon in the corner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the passenger area nice comfy chairs and again the required spittoon over by the well stocked BAR[Alex].


I'm posting it tomorrow but here's a teaser.
I was afraid they wouldn't match up but it's a go.
Wish I knew when the engine plans will get here would wait on the cattle car till later.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Combined Car train build #4*
> 
> Well we're getting close to moving in so bring the fork lift we got a load a freight to haul but it just hit me I ain't got no ENGINE YET.
> 
> Wheels check.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stairs check how do I know it's on the side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just not getting my fingers in there by that band saw blade with these little bity parts.!!!
> My fingers are so far away you don't even see them. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what we're going to be hauling, a load of gears and a grind stone for a water mill.
> You may have noticed that we have the government required spittoon in the corner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the passenger area nice comfy chairs and again the required spittoon over by the well stocked BAR[Alex].


Looking good… great job. I like the grain in the roof.. a feature in itself. Does the roof come off (hinge up) to reveal the detail inside? If not it's a shame to waste.


> ... ain't got no ENGINE YET…


Also, Does the magic SS's *tracks *act as a pathfinder as well??


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## htl

htl said:


> *Combined Car train build #4*
> 
> Well we're getting close to moving in so bring the fork lift we got a load a freight to haul but it just hit me I ain't got no ENGINE YET.
> 
> Wheels check.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stairs check how do I know it's on the side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just not getting my fingers in there by that band saw blade with these little bity parts.!!!
> My fingers are so far away you don't even see them. lol
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what we're going to be hauling, a load of gears and a grind stone for a water mill.
> You may have noticed that we have the government required spittoon in the corner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the passenger area nice comfy chairs and again the required spittoon over by the well stocked BAR[Alex].


No hinge this is the quick cheap econo model.
Lost me on this one?

magic SS's tracks ???

That roof really had me worried just didn't think I was going to pull this one off for a while.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Combined Car train build #4*
> 
> Well we're getting close to moving in so bring the fork lift we got a load a freight to haul but it just hit me I ain't got no ENGINE YET.
> 
> Wheels check.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stairs check how do I know it's on the side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just not getting my fingers in there by that band saw blade with these little bity parts.!!!
> My fingers are so far away you don't even see them. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what we're going to be hauling, a load of gears and a grind stone for a water mill.
> You may have noticed that we have the government required spittoon in the corner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the passenger area nice comfy chairs and again the required spittoon over by the well stocked BAR[Alex].


Alex it would be a small matter of slicing under the roof with a razer knife to fix the roof differently.
I'm just afraid if I change it someone will pick it up and off to meet the floor it would go.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Combined Car train build #4*
> 
> Well we're getting close to moving in so bring the fork lift we got a load a freight to haul but it just hit me I ain't got no ENGINE YET.
> 
> Wheels check.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stairs check how do I know it's on the side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just not getting my fingers in there by that band saw blade with these little bity parts.!!!
> My fingers are so far away you don't even see them. lol
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what we're going to be hauling, a load of gears and a grind stone for a water mill.
> You may have noticed that we have the government required spittoon in the corner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the passenger area nice comfy chairs and again the required spittoon over by the well stocked BAR[Alex].


Do agree about adult fingers… Kids you expect and tend to excuse but adults must "see if the paint is wet". Maybe it's better to just let them look through the window.


> ... magic SS's tracks ???


Bruce, you hinted at *no ENGINE yet*... But what good is an engine if you have NO tracks. With the versatility of your SS, I thought you'd just use it's mitre *tracks* and save timber.


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## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Combined Car train build #4*
> 
> Well we're getting close to moving in so bring the fork lift we got a load a freight to haul but it just hit me I ain't got no ENGINE YET.
> 
> Wheels check.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stairs check how do I know it's on the side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just not getting my fingers in there by that band saw blade with these little bity parts.!!!
> My fingers are so far away you don't even see them. lol
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what we're going to be hauling, a load of gears and a grind stone for a water mill.
> You may have noticed that we have the government required spittoon in the corner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the passenger area nice comfy chairs and again the required spittoon over by the well stocked BAR[Alex].


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## htl

htl said:


> *Combined Car train build #4*
> 
> Well we're getting close to moving in so bring the fork lift we got a load a freight to haul but it just hit me I ain't got no ENGINE YET.
> 
> Wheels check.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stairs check how do I know it's on the side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just not getting my fingers in there by that band saw blade with these little bity parts.!!!
> My fingers are so far away you don't even see them. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what we're going to be hauling, a load of gears and a grind stone for a water mill.
> You may have noticed that we have the government required spittoon in the corner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the passenger area nice comfy chairs and again the required spittoon over by the well stocked BAR[Alex].


Building these toys -models is really a blast and it's a lot a fun when you all come along for the ride.
Thanks!!!


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## htl

htl said:


> *Combined Car train build #4*
> 
> Well we're getting close to moving in so bring the fork lift we got a load a freight to haul but it just hit me I ain't got no ENGINE YET.
> 
> Wheels check.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stairs check how do I know it's on the side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just not getting my fingers in there by that band saw blade with these little bity parts.!!!
> My fingers are so far away you don't even see them. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what we're going to be hauling, a load of gears and a grind stone for a water mill.
> You may have noticed that we have the government required spittoon in the corner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the passenger area nice comfy chairs and again the required spittoon over by the well stocked BAR[Alex].


I had ordered the coil train engine and the 1932 Lincoln-KB plus the tank truck.
The truck and car came today in a box but the train isn't with them.
WAAAA!!! 
Call a Wambulance I wanted my train plans..WAAAA!!!!
The Truck and car plans were on sale for $4 each and man they must have been sitting on a shelf for 20 something years.
Their old and faded the car plastic cover has some old I mean old dust on the cover, but their ok workable.
Both plans are super simple just 2 pages but with some adjusting can be some fun builds once I get the train done.
They have the shapes and for me that all I need.

I should add and Dutchy said something about it.
The Coal train has a good bit of lathe work and the more I look at it my back isn't going to let me stand over the Shop Smith to do it sooo,
I'm working on a lathe duplicater for the Shop Smith to get er done.
This will be a great change of pace for me after doing my last 3 builds one on top of the other.
I love to build jigs so should be a fun project.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Combined Car train build #4*
> 
> Well we're getting close to moving in so bring the fork lift we got a load a freight to haul but it just hit me I ain't got no ENGINE YET.
> 
> Wheels check.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stairs check how do I know it's on the side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just not getting my fingers in there by that band saw blade with these little bity parts.!!!
> My fingers are so far away you don't even see them. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what we're going to be hauling, a load of gears and a grind stone for a water mill.
> You may have noticed that we have the government required spittoon in the corner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the passenger area nice comfy chairs and again the required spittoon over by the well stocked BAR[Alex].


Here is a story board of all the pictures I took.
http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/heretolearn7/passenger%20train%20%20cat/story


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## htl

*Coal Train Build #1*

Well the plans came in and it's full steam ahead. Yahoo!!!
Starting the Toys And Joys Coal train.
I started on the boiler, my thoughts being this is the hardest part everything else can be adjusted to suit it.
Here's what I got done today, I know it doesn't look like much but this is a big part to this project.

Nothing is glued up so may go back and make the walnut rings thinner but we'll see.










Lets back up and start at the beginning.
Remember there's a hundred ways to do any thing this is what worked for me with what tools I had on hand.

Most builders would use the lathe to make the boiler but Little black Duck and I got to talking about it and it hit me I don't need to use the lathe lets try something else.
Another blogger gave me the idea to use a bolt to get every thing lined up and it worked like a charm.
He used the lathe and a dowel for his build..
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/79782

One other thing to note the wood on the plans goes from front to back while the one noted above goes side ways, I really liked the look of his but it needs to be some really nice wood to work.

First I needed some wood to glue up but then it hit me I got some scrounged oak bed posts gathering dust, I almost throw them out last week end. lol









Remember I made my miter gauge work with the Dewalt saw well this was the best way to cut these posts, they needed to be really cut right or we'd have some ugly boilers.
Here's that post. http://lumberjocks.com/htl/blog/84530
I usually use 7 1/2" blades on my saw but wanted it to be cut in one pass so loaded up the big guns and used a 10" blade for this. Man I can really feel and hear the difference in the saw having to turn that bigger blade.
With the big blade the saw has to work to cut through but with the smaller thinner blades it cuts though stuff like this like a knife trough butter.




























Next I resewed some walnut on the table saw for the spacers then planed it.









Now's when thing start going in a different direction.
I mark the centers of the four oak blocks that will be the boiler and drill a hole for a all tread bolt to go through.
Then I sand the blocks round and to size on the SS just like when I'm making wheels.
The bolt is a tight fit so there will not be any sliding around when I finally do glue them up.









Now bolted the wood up and turned the grains to match up and tightened the bolt.
Now chuck it up in the drill press to sand it smooth and get the 4 blocks to match up perfectly.
I should note here that it is a long bolt so clamped a 3/4 piece a scrap under the bolt and drilled the bottom end of the bolt into the wood.
This worked great for the short time I needed it but it did make some noise, I guess I could have oiled it but it worked with out for me.














































Now take it all apart and sand the walnut partitions now that we know exactly how round we want them.

This looks like the hard part for this build so it's all down hill from here, I do need to turn the smoke stack and another dome but shouldn't be to bad.
The wheels sure look thin to me I wonder what some thicker ones would look like on there?

You may have noticed I added a little more shape to the boiler so we'll see if that works out.










That's all folks!


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build #1*
> 
> Well the plans came in and it's full steam ahead. Yahoo!!!
> Starting the Toys And Joys Coal train.
> I started on the boiler, my thoughts being this is the hardest part everything else can be adjusted to suit it.
> Here's what I got done today, I know it doesn't look like much but this is a big part to this project.
> 
> Nothing is glued up so may go back and make the walnut rings thinner but we'll see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lets back up and start at the beginning.
> Remember there's a hundred ways to do any thing this is what worked for me with what tools I had on hand.
> 
> Most builders would use the lathe to make the boiler but Little black Duck and I got to talking about it and it hit me I don't need to use the lathe lets try something else.
> Another blogger gave me the idea to use a bolt to get every thing lined up and it worked like a charm.
> He used the lathe and a dowel for his build..
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/79782
> 
> One other thing to note the wood on the plans goes from front to back while the one noted above goes side ways, I really liked the look of his but it needs to be some really nice wood to work.
> 
> First I needed some wood to glue up but then it hit me I got some scrounged oak bed posts gathering dust, I almost throw them out last week end. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remember I made my miter gauge work with the Dewalt saw well this was the best way to cut these posts, they needed to be really cut right or we'd have some ugly boilers.
> Here's that post. http://lumberjocks.com/htl/blog/84530
> I usually use 7 1/2" blades on my saw but wanted it to be cut in one pass so loaded up the big guns and used a 10" blade for this. Man I can really feel and hear the difference in the saw having to turn that bigger blade.
> With the big blade the saw has to work to cut through but with the smaller thinner blades it cuts though stuff like this like a knife trough butter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I resewed some walnut on the table saw for the spacers then planed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now's when thing start going in a different direction.
> I mark the centers of the four oak blocks that will be the boiler and drill a hole for a all tread bolt to go through.
> Then I sand the blocks round and to size on the SS just like when I'm making wheels.
> The bolt is a tight fit so there will not be any sliding around when I finally do glue them up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now bolted the wood up and turned the grains to match up and tightened the bolt.
> Now chuck it up in the drill press to sand it smooth and get the 4 blocks to match up perfectly.
> I should note here that it is a long bolt so clamped a 3/4 piece a scrap under the bolt and drilled the bottom end of the bolt into the wood.
> This worked great for the short time I needed it but it did make some noise, I guess I could have oiled it but it worked with out for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now take it all apart and sand the walnut partitions now that we know exactly how round we want them.
> 
> This looks like the hard part for this build so it's all down hill from here, I do need to turn the smoke stack and another dome but shouldn't be to bad.
> The wheels sure look thin to me I wonder what some thicker ones would look like on there?
> 
> You may have noticed I added a little more shape to the boiler so we'll see if that works out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks!


"One picture says 1,000 words" (surprisingly is not an original quote.. I stole it from somewhere…).

When you build the wood burner (I'm sure you won't be able to stop after this one), maybe a small 1/8" dowel between adjoining segments would stop slip just if/in case the nut did not give enough pressure to prevent movement.. that way you could use a rasp to speed things up (if it could/need be). May need dowels on opposite side to counter balance (just picturing what may go wrong if I did it). In a past life, for something totally different, I used a 8mm threaded bolt with a skateboard bearing (actually 2-3 for greater stability) on the bottom end. The commercial bearings are 8mm ID (close enough to 5/16"), 22mmOD and 7mm thick. This prevents the thread from wearing away the timber and the base and reduce chatter and friction. I use these bearings a lot in my workshop and when bought in bulk (pack of 20) are about 50p (Aussie cents) each.

Back to the model… I am impressed, job well done.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build #1*
> 
> Well the plans came in and it's full steam ahead. Yahoo!!!
> Starting the Toys And Joys Coal train.
> I started on the boiler, my thoughts being this is the hardest part everything else can be adjusted to suit it.
> Here's what I got done today, I know it doesn't look like much but this is a big part to this project.
> 
> Nothing is glued up so may go back and make the walnut rings thinner but we'll see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lets back up and start at the beginning.
> Remember there's a hundred ways to do any thing this is what worked for me with what tools I had on hand.
> 
> Most builders would use the lathe to make the boiler but Little black Duck and I got to talking about it and it hit me I don't need to use the lathe lets try something else.
> Another blogger gave me the idea to use a bolt to get every thing lined up and it worked like a charm.
> He used the lathe and a dowel for his build..
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/79782
> 
> One other thing to note the wood on the plans goes from front to back while the one noted above goes side ways, I really liked the look of his but it needs to be some really nice wood to work.
> 
> First I needed some wood to glue up but then it hit me I got some scrounged oak bed posts gathering dust, I almost throw them out last week end. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remember I made my miter gauge work with the Dewalt saw well this was the best way to cut these posts, they needed to be really cut right or we'd have some ugly boilers.
> Here's that post. http://lumberjocks.com/htl/blog/84530
> I usually use 7 1/2" blades on my saw but wanted it to be cut in one pass so loaded up the big guns and used a 10" blade for this. Man I can really feel and hear the difference in the saw having to turn that bigger blade.
> With the big blade the saw has to work to cut through but with the smaller thinner blades it cuts though stuff like this like a knife trough butter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I resewed some walnut on the table saw for the spacers then planed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now's when thing start going in a different direction.
> I mark the centers of the four oak blocks that will be the boiler and drill a hole for a all tread bolt to go through.
> Then I sand the blocks round and to size on the SS just like when I'm making wheels.
> The bolt is a tight fit so there will not be any sliding around when I finally do glue them up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now bolted the wood up and turned the grains to match up and tightened the bolt.
> Now chuck it up in the drill press to sand it smooth and get the 4 blocks to match up perfectly.
> I should note here that it is a long bolt so clamped a 3/4 piece a scrap under the bolt and drilled the bottom end of the bolt into the wood.
> This worked great for the short time I needed it but it did make some noise, I guess I could have oiled it but it worked with out for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now take it all apart and sand the walnut partitions now that we know exactly how round we want them.
> 
> This looks like the hard part for this build so it's all down hill from here, I do need to turn the smoke stack and another dome but shouldn't be to bad.
> The wheels sure look thin to me I wonder what some thicker ones would look like on there?
> 
> You may have noticed I added a little more shape to the boiler so we'll see if that works out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks!


You Yanks are weird… Is that a heater keeping the old bed posts warm????


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build #1*
> 
> Well the plans came in and it's full steam ahead. Yahoo!!!
> Starting the Toys And Joys Coal train.
> I started on the boiler, my thoughts being this is the hardest part everything else can be adjusted to suit it.
> Here's what I got done today, I know it doesn't look like much but this is a big part to this project.
> 
> Nothing is glued up so may go back and make the walnut rings thinner but we'll see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lets back up and start at the beginning.
> Remember there's a hundred ways to do any thing this is what worked for me with what tools I had on hand.
> 
> Most builders would use the lathe to make the boiler but Little black Duck and I got to talking about it and it hit me I don't need to use the lathe lets try something else.
> Another blogger gave me the idea to use a bolt to get every thing lined up and it worked like a charm.
> He used the lathe and a dowel for his build..
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/79782
> 
> One other thing to note the wood on the plans goes from front to back while the one noted above goes side ways, I really liked the look of his but it needs to be some really nice wood to work.
> 
> First I needed some wood to glue up but then it hit me I got some scrounged oak bed posts gathering dust, I almost throw them out last week end. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remember I made my miter gauge work with the Dewalt saw well this was the best way to cut these posts, they needed to be really cut right or we'd have some ugly boilers.
> Here's that post. http://lumberjocks.com/htl/blog/84530
> I usually use 7 1/2" blades on my saw but wanted it to be cut in one pass so loaded up the big guns and used a 10" blade for this. Man I can really feel and hear the difference in the saw having to turn that bigger blade.
> With the big blade the saw has to work to cut through but with the smaller thinner blades it cuts though stuff like this like a knife trough butter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I resewed some walnut on the table saw for the spacers then planed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now's when thing start going in a different direction.
> I mark the centers of the four oak blocks that will be the boiler and drill a hole for a all tread bolt to go through.
> Then I sand the blocks round and to size on the SS just like when I'm making wheels.
> The bolt is a tight fit so there will not be any sliding around when I finally do glue them up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now bolted the wood up and turned the grains to match up and tightened the bolt.
> Now chuck it up in the drill press to sand it smooth and get the 4 blocks to match up perfectly.
> I should note here that it is a long bolt so clamped a 3/4 piece a scrap under the bolt and drilled the bottom end of the bolt into the wood.
> This worked great for the short time I needed it but it did make some noise, I guess I could have oiled it but it worked with out for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now take it all apart and sand the walnut partitions now that we know exactly how round we want them.
> 
> This looks like the hard part for this build so it's all down hill from here, I do need to turn the smoke stack and another dome but shouldn't be to bad.
> The wheels sure look thin to me I wonder what some thicker ones would look like on there?
> 
> You may have noticed I added a little more shape to the boiler so we'll see if that works out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks!





> You Yanks are weird… Is that a heater keeping the old bed posts warm????
> 
> - LittleBlackDuck


*Funny that. I was gonna ask the same question ! You beat me to it! *


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build #1*
> 
> Well the plans came in and it's full steam ahead. Yahoo!!!
> Starting the Toys And Joys Coal train.
> I started on the boiler, my thoughts being this is the hardest part everything else can be adjusted to suit it.
> Here's what I got done today, I know it doesn't look like much but this is a big part to this project.
> 
> Nothing is glued up so may go back and make the walnut rings thinner but we'll see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lets back up and start at the beginning.
> Remember there's a hundred ways to do any thing this is what worked for me with what tools I had on hand.
> 
> Most builders would use the lathe to make the boiler but Little black Duck and I got to talking about it and it hit me I don't need to use the lathe lets try something else.
> Another blogger gave me the idea to use a bolt to get every thing lined up and it worked like a charm.
> He used the lathe and a dowel for his build..
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/79782
> 
> One other thing to note the wood on the plans goes from front to back while the one noted above goes side ways, I really liked the look of his but it needs to be some really nice wood to work.
> 
> First I needed some wood to glue up but then it hit me I got some scrounged oak bed posts gathering dust, I almost throw them out last week end. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remember I made my miter gauge work with the Dewalt saw well this was the best way to cut these posts, they needed to be really cut right or we'd have some ugly boilers.
> Here's that post. http://lumberjocks.com/htl/blog/84530
> I usually use 7 1/2" blades on my saw but wanted it to be cut in one pass so loaded up the big guns and used a 10" blade for this. Man I can really feel and hear the difference in the saw having to turn that bigger blade.
> With the big blade the saw has to work to cut through but with the smaller thinner blades it cuts though stuff like this like a knife trough butter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I resewed some walnut on the table saw for the spacers then planed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now's when thing start going in a different direction.
> I mark the centers of the four oak blocks that will be the boiler and drill a hole for a all tread bolt to go through.
> Then I sand the blocks round and to size on the SS just like when I'm making wheels.
> The bolt is a tight fit so there will not be any sliding around when I finally do glue them up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now bolted the wood up and turned the grains to match up and tightened the bolt.
> Now chuck it up in the drill press to sand it smooth and get the 4 blocks to match up perfectly.
> I should note here that it is a long bolt so clamped a 3/4 piece a scrap under the bolt and drilled the bottom end of the bolt into the wood.
> This worked great for the short time I needed it but it did make some noise, I guess I could have oiled it but it worked with out for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now take it all apart and sand the walnut partitions now that we know exactly how round we want them.
> 
> This looks like the hard part for this build so it's all down hill from here, I do need to turn the smoke stack and another dome but shouldn't be to bad.
> The wheels sure look thin to me I wonder what some thicker ones would look like on there?
> 
> You may have noticed I added a little more shape to the boiler so we'll see if that works out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks!


Hey you wanting my heater, you can't have it buddy!
I know it's getting cooler down under but up here in the south it's getting warm so my not a heater is blowing in my direction while I'm sanding the boiler. LOL!!!
The post just haven't found it's way back to the corner from which it came, still trying to find a project to use the middle of that post in I have two of them.
Been thinking of redoing my table saw table one more time kinda like Bearatwood did his out standing work table but probable not.

Ducky I'm glad you mentioned the all thread in the drill press it really could have got interesting if I had been using a cutter or some thing that really put some pressure on the bottom. [it was over an inch in the wood]
I had sanded them so close on the Shopsmith that all I needed to do was sand out the deeper marks from the SS"S course sand paper.
Probable didn't use it like that for 5-10 minutes.
The sander you see near it in the pictures was used as a sanding pad to level out any small rounded out areas.
Then with the drill turned off sanded out the really small marks.
And like you had said else where can you imagine trying to sand this after it's all glued up,would be a real pain.

I've scrounged up some inline skates awhile back and need to check them out for this kind of project.

You probable right about building another one, this is a 2/3 size build and just might want to make one full size so I can put in more details.

Joe I didn't see you post till after I posted the above.
Hey your in my neck of the woods so don't start hanging around with him he'll get you in trouble.


----------



## toyguy

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build #1*
> 
> Well the plans came in and it's full steam ahead. Yahoo!!!
> Starting the Toys And Joys Coal train.
> I started on the boiler, my thoughts being this is the hardest part everything else can be adjusted to suit it.
> Here's what I got done today, I know it doesn't look like much but this is a big part to this project.
> 
> Nothing is glued up so may go back and make the walnut rings thinner but we'll see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lets back up and start at the beginning.
> Remember there's a hundred ways to do any thing this is what worked for me with what tools I had on hand.
> 
> Most builders would use the lathe to make the boiler but Little black Duck and I got to talking about it and it hit me I don't need to use the lathe lets try something else.
> Another blogger gave me the idea to use a bolt to get every thing lined up and it worked like a charm.
> He used the lathe and a dowel for his build..
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/79782
> 
> One other thing to note the wood on the plans goes from front to back while the one noted above goes side ways, I really liked the look of his but it needs to be some really nice wood to work.
> 
> First I needed some wood to glue up but then it hit me I got some scrounged oak bed posts gathering dust, I almost throw them out last week end. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remember I made my miter gauge work with the Dewalt saw well this was the best way to cut these posts, they needed to be really cut right or we'd have some ugly boilers.
> Here's that post. http://lumberjocks.com/htl/blog/84530
> I usually use 7 1/2" blades on my saw but wanted it to be cut in one pass so loaded up the big guns and used a 10" blade for this. Man I can really feel and hear the difference in the saw having to turn that bigger blade.
> With the big blade the saw has to work to cut through but with the smaller thinner blades it cuts though stuff like this like a knife trough butter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I resewed some walnut on the table saw for the spacers then planed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now's when thing start going in a different direction.
> I mark the centers of the four oak blocks that will be the boiler and drill a hole for a all tread bolt to go through.
> Then I sand the blocks round and to size on the SS just like when I'm making wheels.
> The bolt is a tight fit so there will not be any sliding around when I finally do glue them up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now bolted the wood up and turned the grains to match up and tightened the bolt.
> Now chuck it up in the drill press to sand it smooth and get the 4 blocks to match up perfectly.
> I should note here that it is a long bolt so clamped a 3/4 piece a scrap under the bolt and drilled the bottom end of the bolt into the wood.
> This worked great for the short time I needed it but it did make some noise, I guess I could have oiled it but it worked with out for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now take it all apart and sand the walnut partitions now that we know exactly how round we want them.
> 
> This looks like the hard part for this build so it's all down hill from here, I do need to turn the smoke stack and another dome but shouldn't be to bad.
> The wheels sure look thin to me I wonder what some thicker ones would look like on there?
> 
> You may have noticed I added a little more shape to the boiler so we'll see if that works out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks!


Interesting way of attacking this build. Just goes to show you that there is more than one way to skin a cat. But honestly, I'll stick with my lathe.  
Good luck in the rest of the build. These trains from T&J are great conversation pieces when done.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build #1*
> 
> Well the plans came in and it's full steam ahead. Yahoo!!!
> Starting the Toys And Joys Coal train.
> I started on the boiler, my thoughts being this is the hardest part everything else can be adjusted to suit it.
> Here's what I got done today, I know it doesn't look like much but this is a big part to this project.
> 
> Nothing is glued up so may go back and make the walnut rings thinner but we'll see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lets back up and start at the beginning.
> Remember there's a hundred ways to do any thing this is what worked for me with what tools I had on hand.
> 
> Most builders would use the lathe to make the boiler but Little black Duck and I got to talking about it and it hit me I don't need to use the lathe lets try something else.
> Another blogger gave me the idea to use a bolt to get every thing lined up and it worked like a charm.
> He used the lathe and a dowel for his build..
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/79782
> 
> One other thing to note the wood on the plans goes from front to back while the one noted above goes side ways, I really liked the look of his but it needs to be some really nice wood to work.
> 
> First I needed some wood to glue up but then it hit me I got some scrounged oak bed posts gathering dust, I almost throw them out last week end. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remember I made my miter gauge work with the Dewalt saw well this was the best way to cut these posts, they needed to be really cut right or we'd have some ugly boilers.
> Here's that post. http://lumberjocks.com/htl/blog/84530
> I usually use 7 1/2" blades on my saw but wanted it to be cut in one pass so loaded up the big guns and used a 10" blade for this. Man I can really feel and hear the difference in the saw having to turn that bigger blade.
> With the big blade the saw has to work to cut through but with the smaller thinner blades it cuts though stuff like this like a knife trough butter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I resewed some walnut on the table saw for the spacers then planed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now's when thing start going in a different direction.
> I mark the centers of the four oak blocks that will be the boiler and drill a hole for a all tread bolt to go through.
> Then I sand the blocks round and to size on the SS just like when I'm making wheels.
> The bolt is a tight fit so there will not be any sliding around when I finally do glue them up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now bolted the wood up and turned the grains to match up and tightened the bolt.
> Now chuck it up in the drill press to sand it smooth and get the 4 blocks to match up perfectly.
> I should note here that it is a long bolt so clamped a 3/4 piece a scrap under the bolt and drilled the bottom end of the bolt into the wood.
> This worked great for the short time I needed it but it did make some noise, I guess I could have oiled it but it worked with out for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now take it all apart and sand the walnut partitions now that we know exactly how round we want them.
> 
> This looks like the hard part for this build so it's all down hill from here, I do need to turn the smoke stack and another dome but shouldn't be to bad.
> The wheels sure look thin to me I wonder what some thicker ones would look like on there?
> 
> You may have noticed I added a little more shape to the boiler so we'll see if that works out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks!


Toyguy not everyone has a lathe and just thought I'd give it a try before buying any more tools.
I needed a live or even a died center before I use the SS for a lathe and even looked at making one[Got one on order but won't be here till the 15] 
Went to HF and Sears but lathe tools are not fast sellers so no joy.
The plans came in and I have the technology so get er done even if it is a little different..
I wonder how many wood workers have built something else because of not having a lathe when they really wanted to build a train.
So here's another way using a disk sander and a drill press which is a tool most wood workers will get before they would have a lathe.

30 or so years ago I had all the tools needed to use my SS as a lathe and turned a train but sad to say it's one of the toys that didn't survive my son's play time. lol


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build #1*
> 
> Well the plans came in and it's full steam ahead. Yahoo!!!
> Starting the Toys And Joys Coal train.
> I started on the boiler, my thoughts being this is the hardest part everything else can be adjusted to suit it.
> Here's what I got done today, I know it doesn't look like much but this is a big part to this project.
> 
> Nothing is glued up so may go back and make the walnut rings thinner but we'll see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lets back up and start at the beginning.
> Remember there's a hundred ways to do any thing this is what worked for me with what tools I had on hand.
> 
> Most builders would use the lathe to make the boiler but Little black Duck and I got to talking about it and it hit me I don't need to use the lathe lets try something else.
> Another blogger gave me the idea to use a bolt to get every thing lined up and it worked like a charm.
> He used the lathe and a dowel for his build..
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/79782
> 
> One other thing to note the wood on the plans goes from front to back while the one noted above goes side ways, I really liked the look of his but it needs to be some really nice wood to work.
> 
> First I needed some wood to glue up but then it hit me I got some scrounged oak bed posts gathering dust, I almost throw them out last week end. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remember I made my miter gauge work with the Dewalt saw well this was the best way to cut these posts, they needed to be really cut right or we'd have some ugly boilers.
> Here's that post. http://lumberjocks.com/htl/blog/84530
> I usually use 7 1/2" blades on my saw but wanted it to be cut in one pass so loaded up the big guns and used a 10" blade for this. Man I can really feel and hear the difference in the saw having to turn that bigger blade.
> With the big blade the saw has to work to cut through but with the smaller thinner blades it cuts though stuff like this like a knife trough butter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I resewed some walnut on the table saw for the spacers then planed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now's when thing start going in a different direction.
> I mark the centers of the four oak blocks that will be the boiler and drill a hole for a all tread bolt to go through.
> Then I sand the blocks round and to size on the SS just like when I'm making wheels.
> The bolt is a tight fit so there will not be any sliding around when I finally do glue them up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now bolted the wood up and turned the grains to match up and tightened the bolt.
> Now chuck it up in the drill press to sand it smooth and get the 4 blocks to match up perfectly.
> I should note here that it is a long bolt so clamped a 3/4 piece a scrap under the bolt and drilled the bottom end of the bolt into the wood.
> This worked great for the short time I needed it but it did make some noise, I guess I could have oiled it but it worked with out for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now take it all apart and sand the walnut partitions now that we know exactly how round we want them.
> 
> This looks like the hard part for this build so it's all down hill from here, I do need to turn the smoke stack and another dome but shouldn't be to bad.
> The wheels sure look thin to me I wonder what some thicker ones would look like on there?
> 
> You may have noticed I added a little more shape to the boiler so we'll see if that works out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks!


So today I went and sanded the walnut rings a little closer to the boiler and sanded then buffed it out.
I had two pieces of all thread so glued up half the boiler with one so I wouldn't have as much to worry about while I was bolting it up.
Man the bolt worked great just tighten it up and no worrys.
So finished one then glued up the other.
Waited an hour or more and took them apart and then put it all back together gluing up the center, so the boiler is done till I sand the bottom flat and drill holes.
I'm using scraps off the two train cars and truck for wood so this is going to be a really mixed up train wood wise.
Cut out the frame and cabin so tomorrow should be a really fun build.


----------



## helluvawreck

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build #1*
> 
> Well the plans came in and it's full steam ahead. Yahoo!!!
> Starting the Toys And Joys Coal train.
> I started on the boiler, my thoughts being this is the hardest part everything else can be adjusted to suit it.
> Here's what I got done today, I know it doesn't look like much but this is a big part to this project.
> 
> Nothing is glued up so may go back and make the walnut rings thinner but we'll see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lets back up and start at the beginning.
> Remember there's a hundred ways to do any thing this is what worked for me with what tools I had on hand.
> 
> Most builders would use the lathe to make the boiler but Little black Duck and I got to talking about it and it hit me I don't need to use the lathe lets try something else.
> Another blogger gave me the idea to use a bolt to get every thing lined up and it worked like a charm.
> He used the lathe and a dowel for his build..
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/79782
> 
> One other thing to note the wood on the plans goes from front to back while the one noted above goes side ways, I really liked the look of his but it needs to be some really nice wood to work.
> 
> First I needed some wood to glue up but then it hit me I got some scrounged oak bed posts gathering dust, I almost throw them out last week end. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remember I made my miter gauge work with the Dewalt saw well this was the best way to cut these posts, they needed to be really cut right or we'd have some ugly boilers.
> Here's that post. http://lumberjocks.com/htl/blog/84530
> I usually use 7 1/2" blades on my saw but wanted it to be cut in one pass so loaded up the big guns and used a 10" blade for this. Man I can really feel and hear the difference in the saw having to turn that bigger blade.
> With the big blade the saw has to work to cut through but with the smaller thinner blades it cuts though stuff like this like a knife trough butter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I resewed some walnut on the table saw for the spacers then planed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now's when thing start going in a different direction.
> I mark the centers of the four oak blocks that will be the boiler and drill a hole for a all tread bolt to go through.
> Then I sand the blocks round and to size on the SS just like when I'm making wheels.
> The bolt is a tight fit so there will not be any sliding around when I finally do glue them up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now bolted the wood up and turned the grains to match up and tightened the bolt.
> Now chuck it up in the drill press to sand it smooth and get the 4 blocks to match up perfectly.
> I should note here that it is a long bolt so clamped a 3/4 piece a scrap under the bolt and drilled the bottom end of the bolt into the wood.
> This worked great for the short time I needed it but it did make some noise, I guess I could have oiled it but it worked with out for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now take it all apart and sand the walnut partitions now that we know exactly how round we want them.
> 
> This looks like the hard part for this build so it's all down hill from here, I do need to turn the smoke stack and another dome but shouldn't be to bad.
> The wheels sure look thin to me I wonder what some thicker ones would look like on there?
> 
> You may have noticed I added a little more shape to the boiler so we'll see if that works out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks!


Nice work. Your jigs look great and your work is very interesting.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


----------



## htl

*Coal train Builds #2.5*

I thought I took a bunch more pictures but???
Played with the cabin walls and windows.









Next I needed a roof so here's my take on rounding one out.
First I glued the pattern on the edge of the wood [made the wood block extra big so plenty of room to work]then hot glued a big square of scrap 3" X 3" to the roof bottom and cut it out on the band saw.
Then with the wood scrap still on it to keep it strait and level I sanded it on the SS.




























Then I really had some fun flattening the bottom of the boiler where it will meet up with the base.

Having the bolt in the center made making a jig to flatten it on the SS drum sander quite easy.
Still it made me quite nervous didn't want to bugger it up this late in the game.


















Here you can see where the sanding will be done.









The sanding disk is moved to the wood so much nicer and the wood can't move and get out of control.


























I need to mention that I had hit the bolt lose on the first day so it was tight but not glued in at this time.

With that done I could unscrew the bolt from the boiler.










Here it is sitting on the base.









Tomorrows garbage day so cleaned out the cyclone and had 6.5" of saw dust in the 7 gal. bucket.
Quite a bit a saw dust just went out the door with my grass blower, when I use it to really clean out the dust.









So here's where we're at, at the end of the day.
Not glued up but where I can see whats needed.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Coal train Builds #2.5*
> 
> I thought I took a bunch more pictures but???
> Played with the cabin walls and windows.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I needed a roof so here's my take on rounding one out.
> First I glued the pattern on the edge of the wood [made the wood block extra big so plenty of room to work]then hot glued a big square of scrap 3" X 3" to the roof bottom and cut it out on the band saw.
> Then with the wood scrap still on it to keep it strait and level I sanded it on the SS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I really had some fun flattening the bottom of the boiler where it will meet up with the base.
> 
> Having the bolt in the center made making a jig to flatten it on the SS drum sander quite easy.
> Still it made me quite nervous didn't want to bugger it up this late in the game.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where the sanding will be done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sanding disk is moved to the wood so much nicer and the wood can't move and get out of control.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to mention that I had hit the bolt lose on the first day so it was tight but not glued in at this time.
> 
> With that done I could unscrew the bolt from the boiler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is sitting on the base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrows garbage day so cleaned out the cyclone and had 6.5" of saw dust in the 7 gal. bucket.
> Quite a bit a saw dust just went out the door with my grass blower, when I use it to really clean out the dust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's where we're at, at the end of the day.
> Not glued up but where I can see whats needed.


I envy your ability to move sander to stable wood (and maintain angles). The arcs around the window is a nice touch.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Coal train Builds #2.5*
> 
> I thought I took a bunch more pictures but???
> Played with the cabin walls and windows.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I needed a roof so here's my take on rounding one out.
> First I glued the pattern on the edge of the wood [made the wood block extra big so plenty of room to work]then hot glued a big square of scrap 3" X 3" to the roof bottom and cut it out on the band saw.
> Then with the wood scrap still on it to keep it strait and level I sanded it on the SS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I really had some fun flattening the bottom of the boiler where it will meet up with the base.
> 
> Having the bolt in the center made making a jig to flatten it on the SS drum sander quite easy.
> Still it made me quite nervous didn't want to bugger it up this late in the game.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where the sanding will be done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sanding disk is moved to the wood so much nicer and the wood can't move and get out of control.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to mention that I had hit the bolt lose on the first day so it was tight but not glued in at this time.
> 
> With that done I could unscrew the bolt from the boiler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is sitting on the base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrows garbage day so cleaned out the cyclone and had 6.5" of saw dust in the 7 gal. bucket.
> Quite a bit a saw dust just went out the door with my grass blower, when I use it to really clean out the dust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's where we're at, at the end of the day.
> Not glued up but where I can see whats needed.


Alex I really had forgotten how handy the SS is on such things that and it's been many years since I've made such small projects.
It really make wood working a joy when you've got the right tools.
Speaking of which I shore would love to have Dutchy's sander for all those parts needing flattening.
Once I get the sign on the side and the windows they will complement each other I think.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Coal train Builds #2.5*
> 
> I thought I took a bunch more pictures but???
> Played with the cabin walls and windows.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I needed a roof so here's my take on rounding one out.
> First I glued the pattern on the edge of the wood [made the wood block extra big so plenty of room to work]then hot glued a big square of scrap 3" X 3" to the roof bottom and cut it out on the band saw.
> Then with the wood scrap still on it to keep it strait and level I sanded it on the SS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I really had some fun flattening the bottom of the boiler where it will meet up with the base.
> 
> Having the bolt in the center made making a jig to flatten it on the SS drum sander quite easy.
> Still it made me quite nervous didn't want to bugger it up this late in the game.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where the sanding will be done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sanding disk is moved to the wood so much nicer and the wood can't move and get out of control.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to mention that I had hit the bolt lose on the first day so it was tight but not glued in at this time.
> 
> With that done I could unscrew the bolt from the boiler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is sitting on the base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrows garbage day so cleaned out the cyclone and had 6.5" of saw dust in the 7 gal. bucket.
> Quite a bit a saw dust just went out the door with my grass blower, when I use it to really clean out the dust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's where we're at, at the end of the day.
> Not glued up but where I can see whats needed.


Thank you Bruce - another top lesson


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Coal train Builds #2.5*
> 
> I thought I took a bunch more pictures but???
> Played with the cabin walls and windows.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I needed a roof so here's my take on rounding one out.
> First I glued the pattern on the edge of the wood [made the wood block extra big so plenty of room to work]then hot glued a big square of scrap 3" X 3" to the roof bottom and cut it out on the band saw.
> Then with the wood scrap still on it to keep it strait and level I sanded it on the SS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I really had some fun flattening the bottom of the boiler where it will meet up with the base.
> 
> Having the bolt in the center made making a jig to flatten it on the SS drum sander quite easy.
> Still it made me quite nervous didn't want to bugger it up this late in the game.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where the sanding will be done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sanding disk is moved to the wood so much nicer and the wood can't move and get out of control.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to mention that I had hit the bolt lose on the first day so it was tight but not glued in at this time.
> 
> With that done I could unscrew the bolt from the boiler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is sitting on the base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrows garbage day so cleaned out the cyclone and had 6.5" of saw dust in the 7 gal. bucket.
> Quite a bit a saw dust just went out the door with my grass blower, when I use it to really clean out the dust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's where we're at, at the end of the day.
> Not glued up but where I can see whats needed.


Bruce thanks for sharing the idea of the woodblock against the roof for perpendicular sanding. Questione: Why didn't you first rough flatten the boiler on the bandsaw before sanding?


----------



## bruce317

htl said:


> *Coal train Builds #2.5*
> 
> I thought I took a bunch more pictures but???
> Played with the cabin walls and windows.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I needed a roof so here's my take on rounding one out.
> First I glued the pattern on the edge of the wood [made the wood block extra big so plenty of room to work]then hot glued a big square of scrap 3" X 3" to the roof bottom and cut it out on the band saw.
> Then with the wood scrap still on it to keep it strait and level I sanded it on the SS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I really had some fun flattening the bottom of the boiler where it will meet up with the base.
> 
> Having the bolt in the center made making a jig to flatten it on the SS drum sander quite easy.
> Still it made me quite nervous didn't want to bugger it up this late in the game.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where the sanding will be done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sanding disk is moved to the wood so much nicer and the wood can't move and get out of control.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to mention that I had hit the bolt lose on the first day so it was tight but not glued in at this time.
> 
> With that done I could unscrew the bolt from the boiler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is sitting on the base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrows garbage day so cleaned out the cyclone and had 6.5" of saw dust in the 7 gal. bucket.
> Quite a bit a saw dust just went out the door with my grass blower, when I use it to really clean out the dust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's where we're at, at the end of the day.
> Not glued up but where I can see whats needed.


Mighty Fine looking steam engine . Been following this along.


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Coal train Builds #2.5*
> 
> I thought I took a bunch more pictures but???
> Played with the cabin walls and windows.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I needed a roof so here's my take on rounding one out.
> First I glued the pattern on the edge of the wood [made the wood block extra big so plenty of room to work]then hot glued a big square of scrap 3" X 3" to the roof bottom and cut it out on the band saw.
> Then with the wood scrap still on it to keep it strait and level I sanded it on the SS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I really had some fun flattening the bottom of the boiler where it will meet up with the base.
> 
> Having the bolt in the center made making a jig to flatten it on the SS drum sander quite easy.
> Still it made me quite nervous didn't want to bugger it up this late in the game.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where the sanding will be done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sanding disk is moved to the wood so much nicer and the wood can't move and get out of control.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to mention that I had hit the bolt lose on the first day so it was tight but not glued in at this time.
> 
> With that done I could unscrew the bolt from the boiler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is sitting on the base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrows garbage day so cleaned out the cyclone and had 6.5" of saw dust in the 7 gal. bucket.
> Quite a bit a saw dust just went out the door with my grass blower, when I use it to really clean out the dust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's where we're at, at the end of the day.
> Not glued up but where I can see whats needed.


It's beginning to look a lot like a CHOO CHOO !!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Coal train Builds #2.5*
> 
> I thought I took a bunch more pictures but???
> Played with the cabin walls and windows.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I needed a roof so here's my take on rounding one out.
> First I glued the pattern on the edge of the wood [made the wood block extra big so plenty of room to work]then hot glued a big square of scrap 3" X 3" to the roof bottom and cut it out on the band saw.
> Then with the wood scrap still on it to keep it strait and level I sanded it on the SS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I really had some fun flattening the bottom of the boiler where it will meet up with the base.
> 
> Having the bolt in the center made making a jig to flatten it on the SS drum sander quite easy.
> Still it made me quite nervous didn't want to bugger it up this late in the game.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where the sanding will be done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sanding disk is moved to the wood so much nicer and the wood can't move and get out of control.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to mention that I had hit the bolt lose on the first day so it was tight but not glued in at this time.
> 
> With that done I could unscrew the bolt from the boiler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is sitting on the base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrows garbage day so cleaned out the cyclone and had 6.5" of saw dust in the 7 gal. bucket.
> Quite a bit a saw dust just went out the door with my grass blower, when I use it to really clean out the dust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's where we're at, at the end of the day.
> Not glued up but where I can see whats needed.


*"Why didn't you first rough flatten the boiler on the band saw before sanding?*
Dutchy there was no need to, once I had the jig set the coarse sanding disk I had on there did it in a minute.
To use the band saw I would have had to make a fence extension and by the time I made that the job was done on the sander, plus I don't trust my band saw to cut it straight.
One thing you have to remember this is the 2/3 size train so there wasn't that much material to sand.
Remember also with the jig all I had to do was push the lever and the sanding disk was up to the boiler and it was done , less than 3 minutes.
Like a lot of this stuff setting it all up or aligning takes longer than the job itself.
Hope that makes sense?


"thanks for sharing the idea of the woodblock against the roof for perpendicular sanding"*
Dutchy Here again I don't trust my band saw to get the job done right so cut it big and then sanded it to right with the disk sander.

As you've shown us many times the disk sander is great for the small fine marks, well it works pretty good on the big stuff too. lol


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Coal train Builds #2.5*
> 
> I thought I took a bunch more pictures but???
> Played with the cabin walls and windows.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I needed a roof so here's my take on rounding one out.
> First I glued the pattern on the edge of the wood [made the wood block extra big so plenty of room to work]then hot glued a big square of scrap 3" X 3" to the roof bottom and cut it out on the band saw.
> Then with the wood scrap still on it to keep it strait and level I sanded it on the SS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I really had some fun flattening the bottom of the boiler where it will meet up with the base.
> 
> Having the bolt in the center made making a jig to flatten it on the SS drum sander quite easy.
> Still it made me quite nervous didn't want to bugger it up this late in the game.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where the sanding will be done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sanding disk is moved to the wood so much nicer and the wood can't move and get out of control.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to mention that I had hit the bolt lose on the first day so it was tight but not glued in at this time.
> 
> With that done I could unscrew the bolt from the boiler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is sitting on the base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrows garbage day so cleaned out the cyclone and had 6.5" of saw dust in the 7 gal. bucket.
> Quite a bit a saw dust just went out the door with my grass blower, when I use it to really clean out the dust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's where we're at, at the end of the day.
> Not glued up but where I can see whats needed.


Joe what fun is it to say Caboose Caboose?
*GOT TO HAVE The CHOO CHOO* to get it right. LOL

Thanks all that are following along.
It really helps to get feed back even just a word to show it's worth the trouble and that there's interest.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Coal train Builds #2.5*
> 
> I thought I took a bunch more pictures but???
> Played with the cabin walls and windows.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I needed a roof so here's my take on rounding one out.
> First I glued the pattern on the edge of the wood [made the wood block extra big so plenty of room to work]then hot glued a big square of scrap 3" X 3" to the roof bottom and cut it out on the band saw.
> Then with the wood scrap still on it to keep it strait and level I sanded it on the SS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I really had some fun flattening the bottom of the boiler where it will meet up with the base.
> 
> Having the bolt in the center made making a jig to flatten it on the SS drum sander quite easy.
> Still it made me quite nervous didn't want to bugger it up this late in the game.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where the sanding will be done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sanding disk is moved to the wood so much nicer and the wood can't move and get out of control.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to mention that I had hit the bolt lose on the first day so it was tight but not glued in at this time.
> 
> With that done I could unscrew the bolt from the boiler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is sitting on the base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrows garbage day so cleaned out the cyclone and had 6.5" of saw dust in the 7 gal. bucket.
> Quite a bit a saw dust just went out the door with my grass blower, when I use it to really clean out the dust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's where we're at, at the end of the day.
> Not glued up but where I can see whats needed.


Ducky about the sanding disk.
If I didn't have the SS I would probable have built a sliding table for the disk sander to do the same as the SS.
You need one to make your wheels so just make it wider and kill two birds with on jig.
It's cool what jigs you can make with some drawer slides. hint hint


----------



## helluvawreck

htl said:


> *Coal train Builds #2.5*
> 
> I thought I took a bunch more pictures but???
> Played with the cabin walls and windows.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I needed a roof so here's my take on rounding one out.
> First I glued the pattern on the edge of the wood [made the wood block extra big so plenty of room to work]then hot glued a big square of scrap 3" X 3" to the roof bottom and cut it out on the band saw.
> Then with the wood scrap still on it to keep it strait and level I sanded it on the SS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I really had some fun flattening the bottom of the boiler where it will meet up with the base.
> 
> Having the bolt in the center made making a jig to flatten it on the SS drum sander quite easy.
> Still it made me quite nervous didn't want to bugger it up this late in the game.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where the sanding will be done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sanding disk is moved to the wood so much nicer and the wood can't move and get out of control.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to mention that I had hit the bolt lose on the first day so it was tight but not glued in at this time.
> 
> With that done I could unscrew the bolt from the boiler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is sitting on the base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrows garbage day so cleaned out the cyclone and had 6.5" of saw dust in the 7 gal. bucket.
> Quite a bit a saw dust just went out the door with my grass blower, when I use it to really clean out the dust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's where we're at, at the end of the day.
> Not glued up but where I can see whats needed.


I love this project. I'll have to check out the blog. Nice work and well presented.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Coal train Builds #2.5*
> 
> I thought I took a bunch more pictures but???
> Played with the cabin walls and windows.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I needed a roof so here's my take on rounding one out.
> First I glued the pattern on the edge of the wood [made the wood block extra big so plenty of room to work]then hot glued a big square of scrap 3" X 3" to the roof bottom and cut it out on the band saw.
> Then with the wood scrap still on it to keep it strait and level I sanded it on the SS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I really had some fun flattening the bottom of the boiler where it will meet up with the base.
> 
> Having the bolt in the center made making a jig to flatten it on the SS drum sander quite easy.
> Still it made me quite nervous didn't want to bugger it up this late in the game.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where the sanding will be done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sanding disk is moved to the wood so much nicer and the wood can't move and get out of control.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to mention that I had hit the bolt lose on the first day so it was tight but not glued in at this time.
> 
> With that done I could unscrew the bolt from the boiler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is sitting on the base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrows garbage day so cleaned out the cyclone and had 6.5" of saw dust in the 7 gal. bucket.
> Quite a bit a saw dust just went out the door with my grass blower, when I use it to really clean out the dust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's where we're at, at the end of the day.
> Not glued up but where I can see whats needed.





> "Why didn't you first rough flatten the boiler on the band saw before sanding?
> Dutchy there was no need to, once I had the jig set the coarse sanding disk I had on there did it in a minute.
> To use the band saw I would have had to make a fence extension and by the time I made that the job was done on the sander, plus I don t trust my band saw to cut it straight.
> One thing you have to remember this is the 2/3 size train so there wasn t that much material to sand.
> Remember also with the jig all I had to do was push the lever and the sanding disk was up to the boiler and it was done , less than 3 minutes.
> Like a lot of this stuff setting it all up or aligning takes longer than the job itself.
> Hope that makes sense?
> 
> "thanks for sharing the idea of the woodblock against the roof for perpendicular sanding"
> Dutchy Here again I don t trust my band saw to get the job done right so cut it big and then sanded it to right with the disk sander.
> 
> As you ve shown us many times the disk sander is great for the small fine marks, well it works pretty good on the big stuff too. lol
> 
> - htl


 *THANKS*


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Coal train Builds #2.5*
> 
> I thought I took a bunch more pictures but???
> Played with the cabin walls and windows.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I needed a roof so here's my take on rounding one out.
> First I glued the pattern on the edge of the wood [made the wood block extra big so plenty of room to work]then hot glued a big square of scrap 3" X 3" to the roof bottom and cut it out on the band saw.
> Then with the wood scrap still on it to keep it strait and level I sanded it on the SS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I really had some fun flattening the bottom of the boiler where it will meet up with the base.
> 
> Having the bolt in the center made making a jig to flatten it on the SS drum sander quite easy.
> Still it made me quite nervous didn't want to bugger it up this late in the game.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where the sanding will be done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sanding disk is moved to the wood so much nicer and the wood can't move and get out of control.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to mention that I had hit the bolt lose on the first day so it was tight but not glued in at this time.
> 
> With that done I could unscrew the bolt from the boiler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is sitting on the base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrows garbage day so cleaned out the cyclone and had 6.5" of saw dust in the 7 gal. bucket.
> Quite a bit a saw dust just went out the door with my grass blower, when I use it to really clean out the dust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's where we're at, at the end of the day.
> Not glued up but where I can see whats needed.


Dutchy I know I type or talk to much but once I get on a roll look out>


----------



## htl

*Coal Train Build day 4.5 Wheels*

It's time to make the wheels or what ever their called on trains.
Spent nearly the whole day yesterday trying out an idea and it was a bust and I don't like not accomplishing something, well I did get the 4 small front wheels done but I'll show them later but that's all I got done.
So today I headed in a whole new direction about the wheels and got them done thank you very much. LOL

Here's what I did yesterday and you'll find it some day on a project that just needs that.

The idea was to glue up some wood that kinda looked like spokes and then cut them up and put them in the rim of the steel tire, but it just ain't working so lets move on and see what does work.


















How about we make some real spokes for the train wheels.










Now here's how I did it.









First I glued on a pattern for the spokes, I cut the pattern down close to the circle so I could see the line of the spokes really well.
I made a jig to hold the wood with the pattern up on the sliding table.
The object of this is to line the spoke pattern up with the saw blade and make a cut half way throw the wood.[deep]
So clamp cut one line loosen line up next spoke clamp cut for all the spokes, then on to the next wheel.



























Now we glue up all the spokes with supper glue and no I didn't glue myself to the table.
Cut thins strips that fit in the saw cut.
The center will be driller out so it doesn't need to be really neat but I did use the disk sander to sand the angles where the wood matched up, just can't stand the ugly if you didn't.



























Now we trim off the extra and sand it flat, not to finish just so we can put it on the drill press and drill out the axle holes.










Now their ready to take to the Shopsmith and round them on the wheel making jig *BUT FIRST* we need to make the tire treads where the train meets the track.

I used two different sized hole saws to make these rings, first the larger hole then the smaller.
[I had some left over parts and just drilled them out for my rims, that why I'm using the pliers to hold the part.]
These are quite delicate so make extras and when your all done it would pay to coat them with super glue so they will last.
When I say this I mean when the wheels are finished, super glue doesn't stick to itself very well.









Now that we have the rings made we now can sand the spoke centers to fit in the rings.
I slowly sanded down till they fit, and as you can see I busted a couple of them.
I really need to dull down my hole saw blades so they don't cut so fast.
Now it's sand sand sand and polish every thing up.
I can now glue up the centers and cut out the back plate for the wheel.










I really haven't shown how the sanding jig works so lets do that with the back plates.

Hole saw out some plates, over size of course.
















The reason there's two dowels out at the end of the jigs is the pointed one I used first but with these bigger disks they were flopping around and was afraid they would break so made a new holder farther back for more support.









I can set the SS where it should stop but once I'm close to the right size I find I can control the disk better if I unlock the table and just tap it for those super fine adjustments to get er right.










So there they are all sanded and ready to ride the train.
Here's also the shot of the front wheels, I may need to thin then a little but their close.



























I would guess you could just glue the spokes to the wood but for me there's always those couple that slip and aren't right and this is a place where it would really show up so by cutting the groves you trap the spokes and they can't go any where but right.
Just my $.02

That's all folks.
Hope you enjoyed it.

.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 4.5 Wheels*
> 
> It's time to make the wheels or what ever their called on trains.
> Spent nearly the whole day yesterday trying out an idea and it was a bust and I don't like not accomplishing something, well I did get the 4 small front wheels done but I'll show them later but that's all I got done.
> So today I headed in a whole new direction about the wheels and got them done thank you very much. LOL
> 
> Here's what I did yesterday and you'll find it some day on a project that just needs that.
> 
> The idea was to glue up some wood that kinda looked like spokes and then cut them up and put them in the rim of the steel tire, but it just ain't working so lets move on and see what does work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How about we make some real spokes for the train wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now here's how I did it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I glued on a pattern for the spokes, I cut the pattern down close to the circle so I could see the line of the spokes really well.
> I made a jig to hold the wood with the pattern up on the sliding table.
> The object of this is to line the spoke pattern up with the saw blade and make a cut half way throw the wood.[deep]
> So clamp cut one line loosen line up next spoke clamp cut for all the spokes, then on to the next wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we glue up all the spokes with supper glue and no I didn't glue myself to the table.
> Cut thins strips that fit in the saw cut.
> The center will be driller out so it doesn't need to be really neat but I did use the disk sander to sand the angles where the wood matched up, just can't stand the ugly if you didn't.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we trim off the extra and sand it flat, not to finish just so we can put it on the drill press and drill out the axle holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now their ready to take to the Shopsmith and round them on the wheel making jig *BUT FIRST* we need to make the tire treads where the train meets the track.
> 
> I used two different sized hole saws to make these rings, first the larger hole then the smaller.
> [I had some left over parts and just drilled them out for my rims, that why I'm using the pliers to hold the part.]
> These are quite delicate so make extras and when your all done it would pay to coat them with super glue so they will last.
> When I say this I mean when the wheels are finished, super glue doesn't stick to itself very well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that we have the rings made we now can sand the spoke centers to fit in the rings.
> I slowly sanded down till they fit, and as you can see I busted a couple of them.
> I really need to dull down my hole saw blades so they don't cut so fast.
> Now it's sand sand sand and polish every thing up.
> I can now glue up the centers and cut out the back plate for the wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really haven't shown how the sanding jig works so lets do that with the back plates.
> 
> Hole saw out some plates, over size of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The reason there's two dowels out at the end of the jigs is the pointed one I used first but with these bigger disks they were flopping around and was afraid they would break so made a new holder farther back for more support.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can set the SS where it should stop but once I'm close to the right size I find I can control the disk better if I unlock the table and just tap it for those super fine adjustments to get er right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there they are all sanded and ready to ride the train.
> Here's also the shot of the front wheels, I may need to thin then a little but their close.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would guess you could just glue the spokes to the wood but for me there's always those couple that slip and aren't right and this is a place where it would really show up so by cutting the groves you trap the spokes and they can't go any where but right.
> Just my $.02
> 
> That's all folks.
> Hope you enjoyed it.
> 
> .


Brilliant (for a non-Dutchman). A hell of a lot better than holes which was better than no holes. You should sent the method into T &J and get them to make a video… or better still get you to star in the video (and maybe even mention the wheel).


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 4.5 Wheels*
> 
> It's time to make the wheels or what ever their called on trains.
> Spent nearly the whole day yesterday trying out an idea and it was a bust and I don't like not accomplishing something, well I did get the 4 small front wheels done but I'll show them later but that's all I got done.
> So today I headed in a whole new direction about the wheels and got them done thank you very much. LOL
> 
> Here's what I did yesterday and you'll find it some day on a project that just needs that.
> 
> The idea was to glue up some wood that kinda looked like spokes and then cut them up and put them in the rim of the steel tire, but it just ain't working so lets move on and see what does work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How about we make some real spokes for the train wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now here's how I did it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I glued on a pattern for the spokes, I cut the pattern down close to the circle so I could see the line of the spokes really well.
> I made a jig to hold the wood with the pattern up on the sliding table.
> The object of this is to line the spoke pattern up with the saw blade and make a cut half way throw the wood.[deep]
> So clamp cut one line loosen line up next spoke clamp cut for all the spokes, then on to the next wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we glue up all the spokes with supper glue and no I didn't glue myself to the table.
> Cut thins strips that fit in the saw cut.
> The center will be driller out so it doesn't need to be really neat but I did use the disk sander to sand the angles where the wood matched up, just can't stand the ugly if you didn't.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we trim off the extra and sand it flat, not to finish just so we can put it on the drill press and drill out the axle holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now their ready to take to the Shopsmith and round them on the wheel making jig *BUT FIRST* we need to make the tire treads where the train meets the track.
> 
> I used two different sized hole saws to make these rings, first the larger hole then the smaller.
> [I had some left over parts and just drilled them out for my rims, that why I'm using the pliers to hold the part.]
> These are quite delicate so make extras and when your all done it would pay to coat them with super glue so they will last.
> When I say this I mean when the wheels are finished, super glue doesn't stick to itself very well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that we have the rings made we now can sand the spoke centers to fit in the rings.
> I slowly sanded down till they fit, and as you can see I busted a couple of them.
> I really need to dull down my hole saw blades so they don't cut so fast.
> Now it's sand sand sand and polish every thing up.
> I can now glue up the centers and cut out the back plate for the wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really haven't shown how the sanding jig works so lets do that with the back plates.
> 
> Hole saw out some plates, over size of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The reason there's two dowels out at the end of the jigs is the pointed one I used first but with these bigger disks they were flopping around and was afraid they would break so made a new holder farther back for more support.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can set the SS where it should stop but once I'm close to the right size I find I can control the disk better if I unlock the table and just tap it for those super fine adjustments to get er right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there they are all sanded and ready to ride the train.
> Here's also the shot of the front wheels, I may need to thin then a little but their close.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would guess you could just glue the spokes to the wood but for me there's always those couple that slip and aren't right and this is a place where it would really show up so by cutting the groves you trap the spokes and they can't go any where but right.
> Just my $.02
> 
> That's all folks.
> Hope you enjoyed it.
> 
> .


Ducky it's all your fault your the one got me thinking in that direction.
Me and cameras don't get along.
I have to be careful when I'm taking pictures of my projects any little shiny thing that reflects me in it will break the camera.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 4.5 Wheels*
> 
> It's time to make the wheels or what ever their called on trains.
> Spent nearly the whole day yesterday trying out an idea and it was a bust and I don't like not accomplishing something, well I did get the 4 small front wheels done but I'll show them later but that's all I got done.
> So today I headed in a whole new direction about the wheels and got them done thank you very much. LOL
> 
> Here's what I did yesterday and you'll find it some day on a project that just needs that.
> 
> The idea was to glue up some wood that kinda looked like spokes and then cut them up and put them in the rim of the steel tire, but it just ain't working so lets move on and see what does work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How about we make some real spokes for the train wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now here's how I did it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I glued on a pattern for the spokes, I cut the pattern down close to the circle so I could see the line of the spokes really well.
> I made a jig to hold the wood with the pattern up on the sliding table.
> The object of this is to line the spoke pattern up with the saw blade and make a cut half way throw the wood.[deep]
> So clamp cut one line loosen line up next spoke clamp cut for all the spokes, then on to the next wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we glue up all the spokes with supper glue and no I didn't glue myself to the table.
> Cut thins strips that fit in the saw cut.
> The center will be driller out so it doesn't need to be really neat but I did use the disk sander to sand the angles where the wood matched up, just can't stand the ugly if you didn't.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we trim off the extra and sand it flat, not to finish just so we can put it on the drill press and drill out the axle holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now their ready to take to the Shopsmith and round them on the wheel making jig *BUT FIRST* we need to make the tire treads where the train meets the track.
> 
> I used two different sized hole saws to make these rings, first the larger hole then the smaller.
> [I had some left over parts and just drilled them out for my rims, that why I'm using the pliers to hold the part.]
> These are quite delicate so make extras and when your all done it would pay to coat them with super glue so they will last.
> When I say this I mean when the wheels are finished, super glue doesn't stick to itself very well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that we have the rings made we now can sand the spoke centers to fit in the rings.
> I slowly sanded down till they fit, and as you can see I busted a couple of them.
> I really need to dull down my hole saw blades so they don't cut so fast.
> Now it's sand sand sand and polish every thing up.
> I can now glue up the centers and cut out the back plate for the wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really haven't shown how the sanding jig works so lets do that with the back plates.
> 
> Hole saw out some plates, over size of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The reason there's two dowels out at the end of the jigs is the pointed one I used first but with these bigger disks they were flopping around and was afraid they would break so made a new holder farther back for more support.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can set the SS where it should stop but once I'm close to the right size I find I can control the disk better if I unlock the table and just tap it for those super fine adjustments to get er right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there they are all sanded and ready to ride the train.
> Here's also the shot of the front wheels, I may need to thin then a little but their close.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would guess you could just glue the spokes to the wood but for me there's always those couple that slip and aren't right and this is a place where it would really show up so by cutting the groves you trap the spokes and they can't go any where but right.
> Just my $.02
> 
> That's all folks.
> Hope you enjoyed it.
> 
> .


Bruce I always like your contributions and this one is special and that's why I enjoyed looking at and reading it very much. Also great build instructions. THANKS and well done.

I.m glad this train wheels don't have…..................(sorry I can't remember)?


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 4.5 Wheels*
> 
> It's time to make the wheels or what ever their called on trains.
> Spent nearly the whole day yesterday trying out an idea and it was a bust and I don't like not accomplishing something, well I did get the 4 small front wheels done but I'll show them later but that's all I got done.
> So today I headed in a whole new direction about the wheels and got them done thank you very much. LOL
> 
> Here's what I did yesterday and you'll find it some day on a project that just needs that.
> 
> The idea was to glue up some wood that kinda looked like spokes and then cut them up and put them in the rim of the steel tire, but it just ain't working so lets move on and see what does work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How about we make some real spokes for the train wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now here's how I did it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I glued on a pattern for the spokes, I cut the pattern down close to the circle so I could see the line of the spokes really well.
> I made a jig to hold the wood with the pattern up on the sliding table.
> The object of this is to line the spoke pattern up with the saw blade and make a cut half way throw the wood.[deep]
> So clamp cut one line loosen line up next spoke clamp cut for all the spokes, then on to the next wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we glue up all the spokes with supper glue and no I didn't glue myself to the table.
> Cut thins strips that fit in the saw cut.
> The center will be driller out so it doesn't need to be really neat but I did use the disk sander to sand the angles where the wood matched up, just can't stand the ugly if you didn't.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we trim off the extra and sand it flat, not to finish just so we can put it on the drill press and drill out the axle holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now their ready to take to the Shopsmith and round them on the wheel making jig *BUT FIRST* we need to make the tire treads where the train meets the track.
> 
> I used two different sized hole saws to make these rings, first the larger hole then the smaller.
> [I had some left over parts and just drilled them out for my rims, that why I'm using the pliers to hold the part.]
> These are quite delicate so make extras and when your all done it would pay to coat them with super glue so they will last.
> When I say this I mean when the wheels are finished, super glue doesn't stick to itself very well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that we have the rings made we now can sand the spoke centers to fit in the rings.
> I slowly sanded down till they fit, and as you can see I busted a couple of them.
> I really need to dull down my hole saw blades so they don't cut so fast.
> Now it's sand sand sand and polish every thing up.
> I can now glue up the centers and cut out the back plate for the wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really haven't shown how the sanding jig works so lets do that with the back plates.
> 
> Hole saw out some plates, over size of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The reason there's two dowels out at the end of the jigs is the pointed one I used first but with these bigger disks they were flopping around and was afraid they would break so made a new holder farther back for more support.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can set the SS where it should stop but once I'm close to the right size I find I can control the disk better if I unlock the table and just tap it for those super fine adjustments to get er right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there they are all sanded and ready to ride the train.
> Here's also the shot of the front wheels, I may need to thin then a little but their close.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would guess you could just glue the spokes to the wood but for me there's always those couple that slip and aren't right and this is a place where it would really show up so by cutting the groves you trap the spokes and they can't go any where but right.
> Just my $.02
> 
> That's all folks.
> Hope you enjoyed it.
> 
> .


Thanks Dutchy much appreciated.
But Dutchy you need to remember it could be important. LOL


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 4.5 Wheels*
> 
> It's time to make the wheels or what ever their called on trains.
> Spent nearly the whole day yesterday trying out an idea and it was a bust and I don't like not accomplishing something, well I did get the 4 small front wheels done but I'll show them later but that's all I got done.
> So today I headed in a whole new direction about the wheels and got them done thank you very much. LOL
> 
> Here's what I did yesterday and you'll find it some day on a project that just needs that.
> 
> The idea was to glue up some wood that kinda looked like spokes and then cut them up and put them in the rim of the steel tire, but it just ain't working so lets move on and see what does work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How about we make some real spokes for the train wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now here's how I did it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I glued on a pattern for the spokes, I cut the pattern down close to the circle so I could see the line of the spokes really well.
> I made a jig to hold the wood with the pattern up on the sliding table.
> The object of this is to line the spoke pattern up with the saw blade and make a cut half way throw the wood.[deep]
> So clamp cut one line loosen line up next spoke clamp cut for all the spokes, then on to the next wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we glue up all the spokes with supper glue and no I didn't glue myself to the table.
> Cut thins strips that fit in the saw cut.
> The center will be driller out so it doesn't need to be really neat but I did use the disk sander to sand the angles where the wood matched up, just can't stand the ugly if you didn't.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we trim off the extra and sand it flat, not to finish just so we can put it on the drill press and drill out the axle holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now their ready to take to the Shopsmith and round them on the wheel making jig *BUT FIRST* we need to make the tire treads where the train meets the track.
> 
> I used two different sized hole saws to make these rings, first the larger hole then the smaller.
> [I had some left over parts and just drilled them out for my rims, that why I'm using the pliers to hold the part.]
> These are quite delicate so make extras and when your all done it would pay to coat them with super glue so they will last.
> When I say this I mean when the wheels are finished, super glue doesn't stick to itself very well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that we have the rings made we now can sand the spoke centers to fit in the rings.
> I slowly sanded down till they fit, and as you can see I busted a couple of them.
> I really need to dull down my hole saw blades so they don't cut so fast.
> Now it's sand sand sand and polish every thing up.
> I can now glue up the centers and cut out the back plate for the wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really haven't shown how the sanding jig works so lets do that with the back plates.
> 
> Hole saw out some plates, over size of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The reason there's two dowels out at the end of the jigs is the pointed one I used first but with these bigger disks they were flopping around and was afraid they would break so made a new holder farther back for more support.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can set the SS where it should stop but once I'm close to the right size I find I can control the disk better if I unlock the table and just tap it for those super fine adjustments to get er right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there they are all sanded and ready to ride the train.
> Here's also the shot of the front wheels, I may need to thin then a little but their close.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would guess you could just glue the spokes to the wood but for me there's always those couple that slip and aren't right and this is a place where it would really show up so by cutting the groves you trap the spokes and they can't go any where but right.
> Just my $.02
> 
> That's all folks.
> Hope you enjoyed it.
> 
> .


Here's what the wheels should look like.
I know I still need to add the counter weight but my wheels look some what close.


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 4.5 Wheels*
> 
> It's time to make the wheels or what ever their called on trains.
> Spent nearly the whole day yesterday trying out an idea and it was a bust and I don't like not accomplishing something, well I did get the 4 small front wheels done but I'll show them later but that's all I got done.
> So today I headed in a whole new direction about the wheels and got them done thank you very much. LOL
> 
> Here's what I did yesterday and you'll find it some day on a project that just needs that.
> 
> The idea was to glue up some wood that kinda looked like spokes and then cut them up and put them in the rim of the steel tire, but it just ain't working so lets move on and see what does work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How about we make some real spokes for the train wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now here's how I did it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I glued on a pattern for the spokes, I cut the pattern down close to the circle so I could see the line of the spokes really well.
> I made a jig to hold the wood with the pattern up on the sliding table.
> The object of this is to line the spoke pattern up with the saw blade and make a cut half way throw the wood.[deep]
> So clamp cut one line loosen line up next spoke clamp cut for all the spokes, then on to the next wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we glue up all the spokes with supper glue and no I didn't glue myself to the table.
> Cut thins strips that fit in the saw cut.
> The center will be driller out so it doesn't need to be really neat but I did use the disk sander to sand the angles where the wood matched up, just can't stand the ugly if you didn't.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we trim off the extra and sand it flat, not to finish just so we can put it on the drill press and drill out the axle holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now their ready to take to the Shopsmith and round them on the wheel making jig *BUT FIRST* we need to make the tire treads where the train meets the track.
> 
> I used two different sized hole saws to make these rings, first the larger hole then the smaller.
> [I had some left over parts and just drilled them out for my rims, that why I'm using the pliers to hold the part.]
> These are quite delicate so make extras and when your all done it would pay to coat them with super glue so they will last.
> When I say this I mean when the wheels are finished, super glue doesn't stick to itself very well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that we have the rings made we now can sand the spoke centers to fit in the rings.
> I slowly sanded down till they fit, and as you can see I busted a couple of them.
> I really need to dull down my hole saw blades so they don't cut so fast.
> Now it's sand sand sand and polish every thing up.
> I can now glue up the centers and cut out the back plate for the wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really haven't shown how the sanding jig works so lets do that with the back plates.
> 
> Hole saw out some plates, over size of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The reason there's two dowels out at the end of the jigs is the pointed one I used first but with these bigger disks they were flopping around and was afraid they would break so made a new holder farther back for more support.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can set the SS where it should stop but once I'm close to the right size I find I can control the disk better if I unlock the table and just tap it for those super fine adjustments to get er right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there they are all sanded and ready to ride the train.
> Here's also the shot of the front wheels, I may need to thin then a little but their close.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would guess you could just glue the spokes to the wood but for me there's always those couple that slip and aren't right and this is a place where it would really show up so by cutting the groves you trap the spokes and they can't go any where but right.
> Just my $.02
> 
> That's all folks.
> Hope you enjoyed it.
> 
> .


The wheel/axel sets on a train are called the "trucks" .... Dont know how I know that, it's just another useless bit of information that is rattling around in my brain 

Nice job on the spokes. You got more determination (and patience) that I would have !


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 4.5 Wheels*
> 
> It's time to make the wheels or what ever their called on trains.
> Spent nearly the whole day yesterday trying out an idea and it was a bust and I don't like not accomplishing something, well I did get the 4 small front wheels done but I'll show them later but that's all I got done.
> So today I headed in a whole new direction about the wheels and got them done thank you very much. LOL
> 
> Here's what I did yesterday and you'll find it some day on a project that just needs that.
> 
> The idea was to glue up some wood that kinda looked like spokes and then cut them up and put them in the rim of the steel tire, but it just ain't working so lets move on and see what does work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How about we make some real spokes for the train wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now here's how I did it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I glued on a pattern for the spokes, I cut the pattern down close to the circle so I could see the line of the spokes really well.
> I made a jig to hold the wood with the pattern up on the sliding table.
> The object of this is to line the spoke pattern up with the saw blade and make a cut half way throw the wood.[deep]
> So clamp cut one line loosen line up next spoke clamp cut for all the spokes, then on to the next wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we glue up all the spokes with supper glue and no I didn't glue myself to the table.
> Cut thins strips that fit in the saw cut.
> The center will be driller out so it doesn't need to be really neat but I did use the disk sander to sand the angles where the wood matched up, just can't stand the ugly if you didn't.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we trim off the extra and sand it flat, not to finish just so we can put it on the drill press and drill out the axle holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now their ready to take to the Shopsmith and round them on the wheel making jig *BUT FIRST* we need to make the tire treads where the train meets the track.
> 
> I used two different sized hole saws to make these rings, first the larger hole then the smaller.
> [I had some left over parts and just drilled them out for my rims, that why I'm using the pliers to hold the part.]
> These are quite delicate so make extras and when your all done it would pay to coat them with super glue so they will last.
> When I say this I mean when the wheels are finished, super glue doesn't stick to itself very well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that we have the rings made we now can sand the spoke centers to fit in the rings.
> I slowly sanded down till they fit, and as you can see I busted a couple of them.
> I really need to dull down my hole saw blades so they don't cut so fast.
> Now it's sand sand sand and polish every thing up.
> I can now glue up the centers and cut out the back plate for the wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really haven't shown how the sanding jig works so lets do that with the back plates.
> 
> Hole saw out some plates, over size of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The reason there's two dowels out at the end of the jigs is the pointed one I used first but with these bigger disks they were flopping around and was afraid they would break so made a new holder farther back for more support.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can set the SS where it should stop but once I'm close to the right size I find I can control the disk better if I unlock the table and just tap it for those super fine adjustments to get er right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there they are all sanded and ready to ride the train.
> Here's also the shot of the front wheels, I may need to thin then a little but their close.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would guess you could just glue the spokes to the wood but for me there's always those couple that slip and aren't right and this is a place where it would really show up so by cutting the groves you trap the spokes and they can't go any where but right.
> Just my $.02
> 
> That's all folks.
> Hope you enjoyed it.
> 
> .


Joe you get into some of them segmented bowls and you'll be in the same boat.
I hadn't noticed if you have tried any of those yet or not?


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 4.5 Wheels*
> 
> It's time to make the wheels or what ever their called on trains.
> Spent nearly the whole day yesterday trying out an idea and it was a bust and I don't like not accomplishing something, well I did get the 4 small front wheels done but I'll show them later but that's all I got done.
> So today I headed in a whole new direction about the wheels and got them done thank you very much. LOL
> 
> Here's what I did yesterday and you'll find it some day on a project that just needs that.
> 
> The idea was to glue up some wood that kinda looked like spokes and then cut them up and put them in the rim of the steel tire, but it just ain't working so lets move on and see what does work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How about we make some real spokes for the train wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now here's how I did it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I glued on a pattern for the spokes, I cut the pattern down close to the circle so I could see the line of the spokes really well.
> I made a jig to hold the wood with the pattern up on the sliding table.
> The object of this is to line the spoke pattern up with the saw blade and make a cut half way throw the wood.[deep]
> So clamp cut one line loosen line up next spoke clamp cut for all the spokes, then on to the next wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we glue up all the spokes with supper glue and no I didn't glue myself to the table.
> Cut thins strips that fit in the saw cut.
> The center will be driller out so it doesn't need to be really neat but I did use the disk sander to sand the angles where the wood matched up, just can't stand the ugly if you didn't.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we trim off the extra and sand it flat, not to finish just so we can put it on the drill press and drill out the axle holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now their ready to take to the Shopsmith and round them on the wheel making jig *BUT FIRST* we need to make the tire treads where the train meets the track.
> 
> I used two different sized hole saws to make these rings, first the larger hole then the smaller.
> [I had some left over parts and just drilled them out for my rims, that why I'm using the pliers to hold the part.]
> These are quite delicate so make extras and when your all done it would pay to coat them with super glue so they will last.
> When I say this I mean when the wheels are finished, super glue doesn't stick to itself very well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that we have the rings made we now can sand the spoke centers to fit in the rings.
> I slowly sanded down till they fit, and as you can see I busted a couple of them.
> I really need to dull down my hole saw blades so they don't cut so fast.
> Now it's sand sand sand and polish every thing up.
> I can now glue up the centers and cut out the back plate for the wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really haven't shown how the sanding jig works so lets do that with the back plates.
> 
> Hole saw out some plates, over size of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The reason there's two dowels out at the end of the jigs is the pointed one I used first but with these bigger disks they were flopping around and was afraid they would break so made a new holder farther back for more support.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can set the SS where it should stop but once I'm close to the right size I find I can control the disk better if I unlock the table and just tap it for those super fine adjustments to get er right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there they are all sanded and ready to ride the train.
> Here's also the shot of the front wheels, I may need to thin then a little but their close.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would guess you could just glue the spokes to the wood but for me there's always those couple that slip and aren't right and this is a place where it would really show up so by cutting the groves you trap the spokes and they can't go any where but right.
> Just my $.02
> 
> That's all folks.
> Hope you enjoyed it.
> 
> .





> ... wheel/axel sets on a train are called the "trucks" ....


You Americans sure know how to basterdise the queen's English. The correct name for axels with metal *tyres* is *"bogie".*


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 4.5 Wheels*
> 
> It's time to make the wheels or what ever their called on trains.
> Spent nearly the whole day yesterday trying out an idea and it was a bust and I don't like not accomplishing something, well I did get the 4 small front wheels done but I'll show them later but that's all I got done.
> So today I headed in a whole new direction about the wheels and got them done thank you very much. LOL
> 
> Here's what I did yesterday and you'll find it some day on a project that just needs that.
> 
> The idea was to glue up some wood that kinda looked like spokes and then cut them up and put them in the rim of the steel tire, but it just ain't working so lets move on and see what does work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How about we make some real spokes for the train wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now here's how I did it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I glued on a pattern for the spokes, I cut the pattern down close to the circle so I could see the line of the spokes really well.
> I made a jig to hold the wood with the pattern up on the sliding table.
> The object of this is to line the spoke pattern up with the saw blade and make a cut half way throw the wood.[deep]
> So clamp cut one line loosen line up next spoke clamp cut for all the spokes, then on to the next wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we glue up all the spokes with supper glue and no I didn't glue myself to the table.
> Cut thins strips that fit in the saw cut.
> The center will be driller out so it doesn't need to be really neat but I did use the disk sander to sand the angles where the wood matched up, just can't stand the ugly if you didn't.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we trim off the extra and sand it flat, not to finish just so we can put it on the drill press and drill out the axle holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now their ready to take to the Shopsmith and round them on the wheel making jig *BUT FIRST* we need to make the tire treads where the train meets the track.
> 
> I used two different sized hole saws to make these rings, first the larger hole then the smaller.
> [I had some left over parts and just drilled them out for my rims, that why I'm using the pliers to hold the part.]
> These are quite delicate so make extras and when your all done it would pay to coat them with super glue so they will last.
> When I say this I mean when the wheels are finished, super glue doesn't stick to itself very well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that we have the rings made we now can sand the spoke centers to fit in the rings.
> I slowly sanded down till they fit, and as you can see I busted a couple of them.
> I really need to dull down my hole saw blades so they don't cut so fast.
> Now it's sand sand sand and polish every thing up.
> I can now glue up the centers and cut out the back plate for the wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really haven't shown how the sanding jig works so lets do that with the back plates.
> 
> Hole saw out some plates, over size of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The reason there's two dowels out at the end of the jigs is the pointed one I used first but with these bigger disks they were flopping around and was afraid they would break so made a new holder farther back for more support.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can set the SS where it should stop but once I'm close to the right size I find I can control the disk better if I unlock the table and just tap it for those super fine adjustments to get er right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there they are all sanded and ready to ride the train.
> Here's also the shot of the front wheels, I may need to thin then a little but their close.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would guess you could just glue the spokes to the wood but for me there's always those couple that slip and aren't right and this is a place where it would really show up so by cutting the groves you trap the spokes and they can't go any where but right.
> Just my $.02
> 
> That's all folks.
> Hope you enjoyed it.
> 
> .


Well I ain't never heard that one before sur is a new one on me. lol


----------



## htl

*Coal Train Build day 6.5 Cow catcher and other odds and ends.*

Little black ducky showed me a SketchUp drawing he made of the boiler room for the train, so here's my interpretation of his drawing.
Sorry Ducky but the spittoon just looked to big for my build.
Again on a bigger model I could and would have used more of his levers and such.


















I'm at the point where I could go in another direction.
How about a canon?










Or add some fins and it's a rocket ship.










Ok back to the regularly scheduled programing.

I trimed it out around the base on the real train it would some times be chromed.
Also put most of the nose parts on.










I covered the wheel base with 1/16" walnut to hide the sassafras base I started with.
I started out just using any thing that came to my hand then a third of the way through saw this just wouldn't do and remade quite a few parts to make it all match up.

When a project tells you something you need to listen.










The train gets kind a busy in the front so need to get every little thing built to see how it all works out.
Plus I made my boiler a little different that added some length to it so need to keep an eye out for trouble.

This is the coal burning train plans I'm using but I had a chance to see the wood burning train plans and I found it quite interesting the different Technics used in the two builds.
On my train I was supposed to turn the boiler on the lathe as one piece of wood, but the wood train plans call for the way I built mine.
I hadn't seen the wood train plans before I started mine.

Here's a better picture of the wheels.









The cow catcher is a real pain to make and get it to look right.

The wood train plans give a much better drawings to help with the cow catchers construction.































































It's getting there but still need to make all the chimneys and the like.
I should note that quite a few parts are just sitting there not glued up till I'm sure all is well.

Thais all folks.


----------



## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 6.5 Cow catcher and other odds and ends.*
> 
> Little black ducky showed me a SketchUp drawing he made of the boiler room for the train, so here's my interpretation of his drawing.
> Sorry Ducky but the spittoon just looked to big for my build.
> Again on a bigger model I could and would have used more of his levers and such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm at the point where I could go in another direction.
> How about a canon?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or add some fins and it's a rocket ship.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok back to the regularly scheduled programing.
> 
> I trimed it out around the base on the real train it would some times be chromed.
> Also put most of the nose parts on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I covered the wheel base with 1/16" walnut to hide the sassafras base I started with.
> I started out just using any thing that came to my hand then a third of the way through saw this just wouldn't do and remade quite a few parts to make it all match up.
> 
> When a project tells you something you need to listen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The train gets kind a busy in the front so need to get every little thing built to see how it all works out.
> Plus I made my boiler a little different that added some length to it so need to keep an eye out for trouble.
> 
> This is the coal burning train plans I'm using but I had a chance to see the wood burning train plans and I found it quite interesting the different Technics used in the two builds.
> On my train I was supposed to turn the boiler on the lathe as one piece of wood, but the wood train plans call for the way I built mine.
> I hadn't seen the wood train plans before I started mine.
> 
> Here's a better picture of the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cow catcher is a real pain to make and get it to look right.
> 
> The wood train plans give a much better drawings to help with the cow catchers construction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's getting there but still need to make all the chimneys and the like.
> I should note that quite a few parts are just sitting there not glued up till I'm sure all is well.
> 
> Thais all folks.


IT is looking FANTASTIC!

Just do not COUNT the hours you have in it!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 6.5 Cow catcher and other odds and ends.*
> 
> Little black ducky showed me a SketchUp drawing he made of the boiler room for the train, so here's my interpretation of his drawing.
> Sorry Ducky but the spittoon just looked to big for my build.
> Again on a bigger model I could and would have used more of his levers and such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm at the point where I could go in another direction.
> How about a canon?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or add some fins and it's a rocket ship.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok back to the regularly scheduled programing.
> 
> I trimed it out around the base on the real train it would some times be chromed.
> Also put most of the nose parts on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I covered the wheel base with 1/16" walnut to hide the sassafras base I started with.
> I started out just using any thing that came to my hand then a third of the way through saw this just wouldn't do and remade quite a few parts to make it all match up.
> 
> When a project tells you something you need to listen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The train gets kind a busy in the front so need to get every little thing built to see how it all works out.
> Plus I made my boiler a little different that added some length to it so need to keep an eye out for trouble.
> 
> This is the coal burning train plans I'm using but I had a chance to see the wood burning train plans and I found it quite interesting the different Technics used in the two builds.
> On my train I was supposed to turn the boiler on the lathe as one piece of wood, but the wood train plans call for the way I built mine.
> I hadn't seen the wood train plans before I started mine.
> 
> Here's a better picture of the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cow catcher is a real pain to make and get it to look right.
> 
> The wood train plans give a much better drawings to help with the cow catchers construction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's getting there but still need to make all the chimneys and the like.
> I should note that quite a few parts are just sitting there not glued up till I'm sure all is well.
> 
> Thais all folks.


ralbuck I really just work and then post that evening helps to keep it all straight in my mind.

And while I'm blogging it helps me reflected on whats been done and what is needed next, then after sleeping on it Fresh ideas have come to the top.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 6.5 Cow catcher and other odds and ends.*
> 
> Little black ducky showed me a SketchUp drawing he made of the boiler room for the train, so here's my interpretation of his drawing.
> Sorry Ducky but the spittoon just looked to big for my build.
> Again on a bigger model I could and would have used more of his levers and such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm at the point where I could go in another direction.
> How about a canon?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or add some fins and it's a rocket ship.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok back to the regularly scheduled programing.
> 
> I trimed it out around the base on the real train it would some times be chromed.
> Also put most of the nose parts on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I covered the wheel base with 1/16" walnut to hide the sassafras base I started with.
> I started out just using any thing that came to my hand then a third of the way through saw this just wouldn't do and remade quite a few parts to make it all match up.
> 
> When a project tells you something you need to listen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The train gets kind a busy in the front so need to get every little thing built to see how it all works out.
> Plus I made my boiler a little different that added some length to it so need to keep an eye out for trouble.
> 
> This is the coal burning train plans I'm using but I had a chance to see the wood burning train plans and I found it quite interesting the different Technics used in the two builds.
> On my train I was supposed to turn the boiler on the lathe as one piece of wood, but the wood train plans call for the way I built mine.
> I hadn't seen the wood train plans before I started mine.
> 
> Here's a better picture of the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cow catcher is a real pain to make and get it to look right.
> 
> The wood train plans give a much better drawings to help with the cow catchers construction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's getting there but still need to make all the chimneys and the like.
> I should note that quite a few parts are just sitting there not glued up till I'm sure all is well.
> 
> Thais all folks.


htl, you will never grow up to be a HTL without spittoon *train*-ing.

Coming on great.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 6.5 Cow catcher and other odds and ends.*
> 
> Little black ducky showed me a SketchUp drawing he made of the boiler room for the train, so here's my interpretation of his drawing.
> Sorry Ducky but the spittoon just looked to big for my build.
> Again on a bigger model I could and would have used more of his levers and such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm at the point where I could go in another direction.
> How about a canon?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or add some fins and it's a rocket ship.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok back to the regularly scheduled programing.
> 
> I trimed it out around the base on the real train it would some times be chromed.
> Also put most of the nose parts on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I covered the wheel base with 1/16" walnut to hide the sassafras base I started with.
> I started out just using any thing that came to my hand then a third of the way through saw this just wouldn't do and remade quite a few parts to make it all match up.
> 
> When a project tells you something you need to listen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The train gets kind a busy in the front so need to get every little thing built to see how it all works out.
> Plus I made my boiler a little different that added some length to it so need to keep an eye out for trouble.
> 
> This is the coal burning train plans I'm using but I had a chance to see the wood burning train plans and I found it quite interesting the different Technics used in the two builds.
> On my train I was supposed to turn the boiler on the lathe as one piece of wood, but the wood train plans call for the way I built mine.
> I hadn't seen the wood train plans before I started mine.
> 
> Here's a better picture of the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cow catcher is a real pain to make and get it to look right.
> 
> The wood train plans give a much better drawings to help with the cow catchers construction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's getting there but still need to make all the chimneys and the like.
> I should note that quite a few parts are just sitting there not glued up till I'm sure all is well.
> 
> Thais all folks.


You are almost there!


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 6.5 Cow catcher and other odds and ends.*
> 
> Little black ducky showed me a SketchUp drawing he made of the boiler room for the train, so here's my interpretation of his drawing.
> Sorry Ducky but the spittoon just looked to big for my build.
> Again on a bigger model I could and would have used more of his levers and such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm at the point where I could go in another direction.
> How about a canon?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or add some fins and it's a rocket ship.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok back to the regularly scheduled programing.
> 
> I trimed it out around the base on the real train it would some times be chromed.
> Also put most of the nose parts on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I covered the wheel base with 1/16" walnut to hide the sassafras base I started with.
> I started out just using any thing that came to my hand then a third of the way through saw this just wouldn't do and remade quite a few parts to make it all match up.
> 
> When a project tells you something you need to listen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The train gets kind a busy in the front so need to get every little thing built to see how it all works out.
> Plus I made my boiler a little different that added some length to it so need to keep an eye out for trouble.
> 
> This is the coal burning train plans I'm using but I had a chance to see the wood burning train plans and I found it quite interesting the different Technics used in the two builds.
> On my train I was supposed to turn the boiler on the lathe as one piece of wood, but the wood train plans call for the way I built mine.
> I hadn't seen the wood train plans before I started mine.
> 
> Here's a better picture of the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cow catcher is a real pain to make and get it to look right.
> 
> The wood train plans give a much better drawings to help with the cow catchers construction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's getting there but still need to make all the chimneys and the like.
> I should note that quite a few parts are just sitting there not glued up till I'm sure all is well.
> 
> Thais all folks.


Now that is one beaut train Bruce….


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 6.5 Cow catcher and other odds and ends.*
> 
> Little black ducky showed me a SketchUp drawing he made of the boiler room for the train, so here's my interpretation of his drawing.
> Sorry Ducky but the spittoon just looked to big for my build.
> Again on a bigger model I could and would have used more of his levers and such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm at the point where I could go in another direction.
> How about a canon?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or add some fins and it's a rocket ship.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok back to the regularly scheduled programing.
> 
> I trimed it out around the base on the real train it would some times be chromed.
> Also put most of the nose parts on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I covered the wheel base with 1/16" walnut to hide the sassafras base I started with.
> I started out just using any thing that came to my hand then a third of the way through saw this just wouldn't do and remade quite a few parts to make it all match up.
> 
> When a project tells you something you need to listen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The train gets kind a busy in the front so need to get every little thing built to see how it all works out.
> Plus I made my boiler a little different that added some length to it so need to keep an eye out for trouble.
> 
> This is the coal burning train plans I'm using but I had a chance to see the wood burning train plans and I found it quite interesting the different Technics used in the two builds.
> On my train I was supposed to turn the boiler on the lathe as one piece of wood, but the wood train plans call for the way I built mine.
> I hadn't seen the wood train plans before I started mine.
> 
> Here's a better picture of the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cow catcher is a real pain to make and get it to look right.
> 
> The wood train plans give a much better drawings to help with the cow catchers construction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's getting there but still need to make all the chimneys and the like.
> I should note that quite a few parts are just sitting there not glued up till I'm sure all is well.
> 
> Thais all folks.





> You are almost there!
> 
> - Dutchy


He'll never get there without *TRACKS* (unless it's a 4WD)..... (Chicken or the egg???)


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 6.5 Cow catcher and other odds and ends.*
> 
> Little black ducky showed me a SketchUp drawing he made of the boiler room for the train, so here's my interpretation of his drawing.
> Sorry Ducky but the spittoon just looked to big for my build.
> Again on a bigger model I could and would have used more of his levers and such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm at the point where I could go in another direction.
> How about a canon?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or add some fins and it's a rocket ship.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok back to the regularly scheduled programing.
> 
> I trimed it out around the base on the real train it would some times be chromed.
> Also put most of the nose parts on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I covered the wheel base with 1/16" walnut to hide the sassafras base I started with.
> I started out just using any thing that came to my hand then a third of the way through saw this just wouldn't do and remade quite a few parts to make it all match up.
> 
> When a project tells you something you need to listen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The train gets kind a busy in the front so need to get every little thing built to see how it all works out.
> Plus I made my boiler a little different that added some length to it so need to keep an eye out for trouble.
> 
> This is the coal burning train plans I'm using but I had a chance to see the wood burning train plans and I found it quite interesting the different Technics used in the two builds.
> On my train I was supposed to turn the boiler on the lathe as one piece of wood, but the wood train plans call for the way I built mine.
> I hadn't seen the wood train plans before I started mine.
> 
> Here's a better picture of the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cow catcher is a real pain to make and get it to look right.
> 
> The wood train plans give a much better drawings to help with the cow catchers construction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's getting there but still need to make all the chimneys and the like.
> I should note that quite a few parts are just sitting there not glued up till I'm sure all is well.
> 
> Thais all folks.


Ducky just waiting to see if it will drive on the right or left side of the road.
Or will it be like most trains and just blow it's horn and tell every body to get out of the way.
O!!! and Ducky it's a 6 wheel drive me thinks.


----------



## johnstoneb

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 6.5 Cow catcher and other odds and ends.*
> 
> Little black ducky showed me a SketchUp drawing he made of the boiler room for the train, so here's my interpretation of his drawing.
> Sorry Ducky but the spittoon just looked to big for my build.
> Again on a bigger model I could and would have used more of his levers and such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm at the point where I could go in another direction.
> How about a canon?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or add some fins and it's a rocket ship.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok back to the regularly scheduled programing.
> 
> I trimed it out around the base on the real train it would some times be chromed.
> Also put most of the nose parts on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I covered the wheel base with 1/16" walnut to hide the sassafras base I started with.
> I started out just using any thing that came to my hand then a third of the way through saw this just wouldn't do and remade quite a few parts to make it all match up.
> 
> When a project tells you something you need to listen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The train gets kind a busy in the front so need to get every little thing built to see how it all works out.
> Plus I made my boiler a little different that added some length to it so need to keep an eye out for trouble.
> 
> This is the coal burning train plans I'm using but I had a chance to see the wood burning train plans and I found it quite interesting the different Technics used in the two builds.
> On my train I was supposed to turn the boiler on the lathe as one piece of wood, but the wood train plans call for the way I built mine.
> I hadn't seen the wood train plans before I started mine.
> 
> Here's a better picture of the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cow catcher is a real pain to make and get it to look right.
> 
> The wood train plans give a much better drawings to help with the cow catchers construction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's getting there but still need to make all the chimneys and the like.
> I should note that quite a few parts are just sitting there not glued up till I'm sure all is well.
> 
> Thais all folks.


Engine is coming along nicely.


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 6.5 Cow catcher and other odds and ends.*
> 
> Little black ducky showed me a SketchUp drawing he made of the boiler room for the train, so here's my interpretation of his drawing.
> Sorry Ducky but the spittoon just looked to big for my build.
> Again on a bigger model I could and would have used more of his levers and such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm at the point where I could go in another direction.
> How about a canon?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or add some fins and it's a rocket ship.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok back to the regularly scheduled programing.
> 
> I trimed it out around the base on the real train it would some times be chromed.
> Also put most of the nose parts on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I covered the wheel base with 1/16" walnut to hide the sassafras base I started with.
> I started out just using any thing that came to my hand then a third of the way through saw this just wouldn't do and remade quite a few parts to make it all match up.
> 
> When a project tells you something you need to listen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The train gets kind a busy in the front so need to get every little thing built to see how it all works out.
> Plus I made my boiler a little different that added some length to it so need to keep an eye out for trouble.
> 
> This is the coal burning train plans I'm using but I had a chance to see the wood burning train plans and I found it quite interesting the different Technics used in the two builds.
> On my train I was supposed to turn the boiler on the lathe as one piece of wood, but the wood train plans call for the way I built mine.
> I hadn't seen the wood train plans before I started mine.
> 
> Here's a better picture of the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cow catcher is a real pain to make and get it to look right.
> 
> The wood train plans give a much better drawings to help with the cow catchers construction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's getting there but still need to make all the chimneys and the like.
> I should note that quite a few parts are just sitting there not glued up till I'm sure all is well.
> 
> Thais all folks.


Good idea on giving both each of the engineers their own commodes ! (Very handy for, you know, long runs and all)  
.
.


----------



## Dautterguy

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 6.5 Cow catcher and other odds and ends.*
> 
> Little black ducky showed me a SketchUp drawing he made of the boiler room for the train, so here's my interpretation of his drawing.
> Sorry Ducky but the spittoon just looked to big for my build.
> Again on a bigger model I could and would have used more of his levers and such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm at the point where I could go in another direction.
> How about a canon?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or add some fins and it's a rocket ship.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok back to the regularly scheduled programing.
> 
> I trimed it out around the base on the real train it would some times be chromed.
> Also put most of the nose parts on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I covered the wheel base with 1/16" walnut to hide the sassafras base I started with.
> I started out just using any thing that came to my hand then a third of the way through saw this just wouldn't do and remade quite a few parts to make it all match up.
> 
> When a project tells you something you need to listen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The train gets kind a busy in the front so need to get every little thing built to see how it all works out.
> Plus I made my boiler a little different that added some length to it so need to keep an eye out for trouble.
> 
> This is the coal burning train plans I'm using but I had a chance to see the wood burning train plans and I found it quite interesting the different Technics used in the two builds.
> On my train I was supposed to turn the boiler on the lathe as one piece of wood, but the wood train plans call for the way I built mine.
> I hadn't seen the wood train plans before I started mine.
> 
> Here's a better picture of the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cow catcher is a real pain to make and get it to look right.
> 
> The wood train plans give a much better drawings to help with the cow catchers construction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's getting there but still need to make all the chimneys and the like.
> I should note that quite a few parts are just sitting there not glued up till I'm sure all is well.
> 
> Thais all folks.


I too build "Toy Trians". I am intrigued by the design of your Train. Is thier a name for it? A 4-6 perhaps? I don't believe I have ever seen one quite like your design. You have put a lot of work into your models. Keep up the good work. I love the use of the different woods,very beautiful. What kind of finish do you use? I dip (soak) mine in Mineral Oil. Non-toxic of any one.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 6.5 Cow catcher and other odds and ends.*
> 
> Little black ducky showed me a SketchUp drawing he made of the boiler room for the train, so here's my interpretation of his drawing.
> Sorry Ducky but the spittoon just looked to big for my build.
> Again on a bigger model I could and would have used more of his levers and such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm at the point where I could go in another direction.
> How about a canon?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or add some fins and it's a rocket ship.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok back to the regularly scheduled programing.
> 
> I trimed it out around the base on the real train it would some times be chromed.
> Also put most of the nose parts on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I covered the wheel base with 1/16" walnut to hide the sassafras base I started with.
> I started out just using any thing that came to my hand then a third of the way through saw this just wouldn't do and remade quite a few parts to make it all match up.
> 
> When a project tells you something you need to listen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The train gets kind a busy in the front so need to get every little thing built to see how it all works out.
> Plus I made my boiler a little different that added some length to it so need to keep an eye out for trouble.
> 
> This is the coal burning train plans I'm using but I had a chance to see the wood burning train plans and I found it quite interesting the different Technics used in the two builds.
> On my train I was supposed to turn the boiler on the lathe as one piece of wood, but the wood train plans call for the way I built mine.
> I hadn't seen the wood train plans before I started mine.
> 
> Here's a better picture of the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cow catcher is a real pain to make and get it to look right.
> 
> The wood train plans give a much better drawings to help with the cow catchers construction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's getting there but still need to make all the chimneys and the like.
> I should note that quite a few parts are just sitting there not glued up till I'm sure all is well.
> 
> Thais all folks.


Joe Joe Joe don't you remember way back in your child hood when they used to make things that run on poop, cars trucks and aa trains?
But lets not go there me think.
Now that you've gone there do I really need to change my chairs do they look that bad? LOL

Dautterguy I don't build where kids can get hold of them so use a hand rub finish on them.
Minwax


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 6.5 Cow catcher and other odds and ends.*
> 
> Little black ducky showed me a SketchUp drawing he made of the boiler room for the train, so here's my interpretation of his drawing.
> Sorry Ducky but the spittoon just looked to big for my build.
> Again on a bigger model I could and would have used more of his levers and such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm at the point where I could go in another direction.
> How about a canon?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or add some fins and it's a rocket ship.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok back to the regularly scheduled programing.
> 
> I trimed it out around the base on the real train it would some times be chromed.
> Also put most of the nose parts on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I covered the wheel base with 1/16" walnut to hide the sassafras base I started with.
> I started out just using any thing that came to my hand then a third of the way through saw this just wouldn't do and remade quite a few parts to make it all match up.
> 
> When a project tells you something you need to listen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The train gets kind a busy in the front so need to get every little thing built to see how it all works out.
> Plus I made my boiler a little different that added some length to it so need to keep an eye out for trouble.
> 
> This is the coal burning train plans I'm using but I had a chance to see the wood burning train plans and I found it quite interesting the different Technics used in the two builds.
> On my train I was supposed to turn the boiler on the lathe as one piece of wood, but the wood train plans call for the way I built mine.
> I hadn't seen the wood train plans before I started mine.
> 
> Here's a better picture of the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cow catcher is a real pain to make and get it to look right.
> 
> The wood train plans give a much better drawings to help with the cow catchers construction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's getting there but still need to make all the chimneys and the like.
> I should note that quite a few parts are just sitting there not glued up till I'm sure all is well.
> 
> Thais all folks.





> ... just blow it s horn and tell every body to get out of the way.


Yell to the driver to *GO AROUND*!!!!


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 6.5 Cow catcher and other odds and ends.*
> 
> Little black ducky showed me a SketchUp drawing he made of the boiler room for the train, so here's my interpretation of his drawing.
> Sorry Ducky but the spittoon just looked to big for my build.
> Again on a bigger model I could and would have used more of his levers and such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm at the point where I could go in another direction.
> How about a canon?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or add some fins and it's a rocket ship.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok back to the regularly scheduled programing.
> 
> I trimed it out around the base on the real train it would some times be chromed.
> Also put most of the nose parts on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I covered the wheel base with 1/16" walnut to hide the sassafras base I started with.
> I started out just using any thing that came to my hand then a third of the way through saw this just wouldn't do and remade quite a few parts to make it all match up.
> 
> When a project tells you something you need to listen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The train gets kind a busy in the front so need to get every little thing built to see how it all works out.
> Plus I made my boiler a little different that added some length to it so need to keep an eye out for trouble.
> 
> This is the coal burning train plans I'm using but I had a chance to see the wood burning train plans and I found it quite interesting the different Technics used in the two builds.
> On my train I was supposed to turn the boiler on the lathe as one piece of wood, but the wood train plans call for the way I built mine.
> I hadn't seen the wood train plans before I started mine.
> 
> Here's a better picture of the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cow catcher is a real pain to make and get it to look right.
> 
> The wood train plans give a much better drawings to help with the cow catchers construction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's getting there but still need to make all the chimneys and the like.
> I should note that quite a few parts are just sitting there not glued up till I'm sure all is well.
> 
> Thais all folks.





> ... just blow it s horn and tell every body to get out of the way.
> Yell to the driver to *GO AROUND*!!!!
> 
> - LittleBlackDuck


.
.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 6.5 Cow catcher and other odds and ends.*
> 
> Little black ducky showed me a SketchUp drawing he made of the boiler room for the train, so here's my interpretation of his drawing.
> Sorry Ducky but the spittoon just looked to big for my build.
> Again on a bigger model I could and would have used more of his levers and such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm at the point where I could go in another direction.
> How about a canon?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or add some fins and it's a rocket ship.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok back to the regularly scheduled programing.
> 
> I trimed it out around the base on the real train it would some times be chromed.
> Also put most of the nose parts on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I covered the wheel base with 1/16" walnut to hide the sassafras base I started with.
> I started out just using any thing that came to my hand then a third of the way through saw this just wouldn't do and remade quite a few parts to make it all match up.
> 
> When a project tells you something you need to listen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The train gets kind a busy in the front so need to get every little thing built to see how it all works out.
> Plus I made my boiler a little different that added some length to it so need to keep an eye out for trouble.
> 
> This is the coal burning train plans I'm using but I had a chance to see the wood burning train plans and I found it quite interesting the different Technics used in the two builds.
> On my train I was supposed to turn the boiler on the lathe as one piece of wood, but the wood train plans call for the way I built mine.
> I hadn't seen the wood train plans before I started mine.
> 
> Here's a better picture of the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cow catcher is a real pain to make and get it to look right.
> 
> The wood train plans give a much better drawings to help with the cow catchers construction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's getting there but still need to make all the chimneys and the like.
> I should note that quite a few parts are just sitting there not glued up till I'm sure all is well.
> 
> Thais all folks.


I always heard it was go* around idiot go around* .


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 6.5 Cow catcher and other odds and ends.*
> 
> Little black ducky showed me a SketchUp drawing he made of the boiler room for the train, so here's my interpretation of his drawing.
> Sorry Ducky but the spittoon just looked to big for my build.
> Again on a bigger model I could and would have used more of his levers and such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm at the point where I could go in another direction.
> How about a canon?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or add some fins and it's a rocket ship.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok back to the regularly scheduled programing.
> 
> I trimed it out around the base on the real train it would some times be chromed.
> Also put most of the nose parts on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I covered the wheel base with 1/16" walnut to hide the sassafras base I started with.
> I started out just using any thing that came to my hand then a third of the way through saw this just wouldn't do and remade quite a few parts to make it all match up.
> 
> When a project tells you something you need to listen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The train gets kind a busy in the front so need to get every little thing built to see how it all works out.
> Plus I made my boiler a little different that added some length to it so need to keep an eye out for trouble.
> 
> This is the coal burning train plans I'm using but I had a chance to see the wood burning train plans and I found it quite interesting the different Technics used in the two builds.
> On my train I was supposed to turn the boiler on the lathe as one piece of wood, but the wood train plans call for the way I built mine.
> I hadn't seen the wood train plans before I started mine.
> 
> Here's a better picture of the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cow catcher is a real pain to make and get it to look right.
> 
> The wood train plans give a much better drawings to help with the cow catchers construction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's getting there but still need to make all the chimneys and the like.
> I should note that quite a few parts are just sitting there not glued up till I'm sure all is well.
> 
> Thais all folks.


Guys I need a some tips on making very small axial pins???
I don't buy many store bought parts but axials is one of them but for this build I need some really small axials so some help would be appreciated.


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 6.5 Cow catcher and other odds and ends.*
> 
> Little black ducky showed me a SketchUp drawing he made of the boiler room for the train, so here's my interpretation of his drawing.
> Sorry Ducky but the spittoon just looked to big for my build.
> Again on a bigger model I could and would have used more of his levers and such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm at the point where I could go in another direction.
> How about a canon?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or add some fins and it's a rocket ship.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok back to the regularly scheduled programing.
> 
> I trimed it out around the base on the real train it would some times be chromed.
> Also put most of the nose parts on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I covered the wheel base with 1/16" walnut to hide the sassafras base I started with.
> I started out just using any thing that came to my hand then a third of the way through saw this just wouldn't do and remade quite a few parts to make it all match up.
> 
> When a project tells you something you need to listen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The train gets kind a busy in the front so need to get every little thing built to see how it all works out.
> Plus I made my boiler a little different that added some length to it so need to keep an eye out for trouble.
> 
> This is the coal burning train plans I'm using but I had a chance to see the wood burning train plans and I found it quite interesting the different Technics used in the two builds.
> On my train I was supposed to turn the boiler on the lathe as one piece of wood, but the wood train plans call for the way I built mine.
> I hadn't seen the wood train plans before I started mine.
> 
> Here's a better picture of the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cow catcher is a real pain to make and get it to look right.
> 
> The wood train plans give a much better drawings to help with the cow catchers construction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's getting there but still need to make all the chimneys and the like.
> I should note that quite a few parts are just sitting there not glued up till I'm sure all is well.
> 
> Thais all folks.





> Guys I need a some tips on making very small axial pins???
> I don t buy many store bought parts but axials is one of them but for this build I need some really small axials so some help would be appreciated.
> 
> - htl


Tooth picks?


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 6.5 Cow catcher and other odds and ends.*
> 
> Little black ducky showed me a SketchUp drawing he made of the boiler room for the train, so here's my interpretation of his drawing.
> Sorry Ducky but the spittoon just looked to big for my build.
> Again on a bigger model I could and would have used more of his levers and such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm at the point where I could go in another direction.
> How about a canon?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or add some fins and it's a rocket ship.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok back to the regularly scheduled programing.
> 
> I trimed it out around the base on the real train it would some times be chromed.
> Also put most of the nose parts on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I covered the wheel base with 1/16" walnut to hide the sassafras base I started with.
> I started out just using any thing that came to my hand then a third of the way through saw this just wouldn't do and remade quite a few parts to make it all match up.
> 
> When a project tells you something you need to listen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The train gets kind a busy in the front so need to get every little thing built to see how it all works out.
> Plus I made my boiler a little different that added some length to it so need to keep an eye out for trouble.
> 
> This is the coal burning train plans I'm using but I had a chance to see the wood burning train plans and I found it quite interesting the different Technics used in the two builds.
> On my train I was supposed to turn the boiler on the lathe as one piece of wood, but the wood train plans call for the way I built mine.
> I hadn't seen the wood train plans before I started mine.
> 
> Here's a better picture of the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cow catcher is a real pain to make and get it to look right.
> 
> The wood train plans give a much better drawings to help with the cow catchers construction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's getting there but still need to make all the chimneys and the like.
> I should note that quite a few parts are just sitting there not glued up till I'm sure all is well.
> 
> Thais all folks.


Well if that's all I need send me over some of them there splinters you get turning stuff.
Thanks in advance!
Ps it's the cap on the end i'm thinking about.
Thanks Joe!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 6.5 Cow catcher and other odds and ends.*
> 
> Little black ducky showed me a SketchUp drawing he made of the boiler room for the train, so here's my interpretation of his drawing.
> Sorry Ducky but the spittoon just looked to big for my build.
> Again on a bigger model I could and would have used more of his levers and such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm at the point where I could go in another direction.
> How about a canon?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or add some fins and it's a rocket ship.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok back to the regularly scheduled programing.
> 
> I trimed it out around the base on the real train it would some times be chromed.
> Also put most of the nose parts on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I covered the wheel base with 1/16" walnut to hide the sassafras base I started with.
> I started out just using any thing that came to my hand then a third of the way through saw this just wouldn't do and remade quite a few parts to make it all match up.
> 
> When a project tells you something you need to listen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The train gets kind a busy in the front so need to get every little thing built to see how it all works out.
> Plus I made my boiler a little different that added some length to it so need to keep an eye out for trouble.
> 
> This is the coal burning train plans I'm using but I had a chance to see the wood burning train plans and I found it quite interesting the different Technics used in the two builds.
> On my train I was supposed to turn the boiler on the lathe as one piece of wood, but the wood train plans call for the way I built mine.
> I hadn't seen the wood train plans before I started mine.
> 
> Here's a better picture of the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cow catcher is a real pain to make and get it to look right.
> 
> The wood train plans give a much better drawings to help with the cow catchers construction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's getting there but still need to make all the chimneys and the like.
> I should note that quite a few parts are just sitting there not glued up till I'm sure all is well.
> 
> Thais all folks.


Drill a hole in a small piece of dowel larger than the axle same diameter as axle. CA glue in dowel 1"" longer than required. Chuck it (not over your shoulder) in a hand held or the SS and hit the tip with a bit of sandpaper.

Alternatively just drill a contrasting/stained dowel and cut a 1/8 or 1/16 sliver and use it as a round nut.


----------



## htl

*Coal Train Build day 7 Cow catcher redo and chimney*

*First thing does any one have some tips on making little bitty axial???*
I really need it for the pivot points on the Push Bars and where they hook up to the wheels.

I just didn't like the way the cow catcher came out so gave it a second try.
I used the same trick I used for the wheels, cutting a grove for the small wood pieces to be glued in, this way they stay in place and can't move or lean over and just look wrong.










Here's how it worked out for me.
You've seen this before but some may not have so.
I don't worry where I get started just need some groves to put the slats in.
Spacer in set fence take out space make cut and start all over again.
After I get it all put together then I cut and sand up close to the cow catcher teeth.





































Once the groves are cut, I cut the board in half and glue it up making sure the groves match up.
As I glued it up I also glued the middle and biggest grill part this helped to line and square it up for the rest of the parts.


























Just a little bigger but turned out much cleaner looking.

Next I played with making a chimney.
Remember that wasted day well it wasn't wasted after all I drilled out the middle and made my smoke stack with it. lol




































Well that just might get er done at least for today.
That's all folks


----------



## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 7 Cow catcher redo and chimney*
> 
> *First thing does any one have some tips on making little bitty axial???*
> I really need it for the pivot points on the Push Bars and where they hook up to the wheels.
> 
> I just didn't like the way the cow catcher came out so gave it a second try.
> I used the same trick I used for the wheels, cutting a grove for the small wood pieces to be glued in, this way they stay in place and can't move or lean over and just look wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how it worked out for me.
> You've seen this before but some may not have so.
> I don't worry where I get started just need some groves to put the slats in.
> Spacer in set fence take out space make cut and start all over again.
> After I get it all put together then I cut and sand up close to the cow catcher teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the groves are cut, I cut the board in half and glue it up making sure the groves match up.
> As I glued it up I also glued the middle and biggest grill part this helped to line and square it up for the rest of the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a little bigger but turned out much cleaner looking.
> 
> Next I played with making a chimney.
> Remember that wasted day well it wasn't wasted after all I drilled out the middle and made my smoke stack with it. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that just might get er done at least for today.
> That's all folks


You are doing an AMAZING model!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 7 Cow catcher redo and chimney*
> 
> *First thing does any one have some tips on making little bitty axial???*
> I really need it for the pivot points on the Push Bars and where they hook up to the wheels.
> 
> I just didn't like the way the cow catcher came out so gave it a second try.
> I used the same trick I used for the wheels, cutting a grove for the small wood pieces to be glued in, this way they stay in place and can't move or lean over and just look wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how it worked out for me.
> You've seen this before but some may not have so.
> I don't worry where I get started just need some groves to put the slats in.
> Spacer in set fence take out space make cut and start all over again.
> After I get it all put together then I cut and sand up close to the cow catcher teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the groves are cut, I cut the board in half and glue it up making sure the groves match up.
> As I glued it up I also glued the middle and biggest grill part this helped to line and square it up for the rest of the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a little bigger but turned out much cleaner looking.
> 
> Next I played with making a chimney.
> Remember that wasted day well it wasn't wasted after all I drilled out the middle and made my smoke stack with it. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that just might get er done at least for today.
> That's all folks


Very *GROOVE*y. Great solution… better than a whiskey soak (the solution),


----------



## htl

*Coal Train Build day 8 Put it together just to see how it may look.*

If you see something you think needs some work tell me now it's all glued up tomorrow.
I still need to finish up the wheel linkage but that's about all besides making the coal or wood car.
To me the wood car looks better, which one do you like.
O! and I guess I need to build the bell to fill that spot on the boiler roof and the tanks under the cabin and the - - - - the more I look at it the more I see what still needs doing. AAAAA!!!!!!


----------



## bruce317

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 8 Put it together just to see how it may look.*
> 
> If you see something you think needs some work tell me now it's all glued up tomorrow.
> I still need to finish up the wheel linkage but that's about all besides making the coal or wood car.
> To me the wood car looks better, which one do you like.
> O! and I guess I need to build the bell to fill that spot on the boiler roof and the tanks under the cabin and the - - - - the more I look at it the more I see what still needs doing. AAAAA!!!!!!


You have The Look and that is GREAT!!! If by coal or wood car, you mean the tender. Do use the wood one. It has The Look to go with the smoke stack. Just my two cents worth.
Bruce


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 8 Put it together just to see how it may look.*
> 
> If you see something you think needs some work tell me now it's all glued up tomorrow.
> I still need to finish up the wheel linkage but that's about all besides making the coal or wood car.
> To me the wood car looks better, which one do you like.
> O! and I guess I need to build the bell to fill that spot on the boiler roof and the tanks under the cabin and the - - - - the more I look at it the more I see what still needs doing. AAAAA!!!!!!


Bruce I'm with you the wood tender looks like a real car the coal tender looks like an after thought.
I know they both are used differently one for wood the other coal but it just doesn't look real to me, speaking of the coal tender.
I guess I should show some examples to choose from.

Here's Mr woodys wood tender.








And here's his coal tender.








The more I look at woodys trains both look just fine.
And he did and out standing job.

When looking at the plans the wood tender just looks better to me, but side by side like this no problem with ether.
I think the wood one like Bruce said how about any one else?


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 8 Put it together just to see how it may look.*
> 
> If you see something you think needs some work tell me now it's all glued up tomorrow.
> I still need to finish up the wheel linkage but that's about all besides making the coal or wood car.
> To me the wood car looks better, which one do you like.
> O! and I guess I need to build the bell to fill that spot on the boiler roof and the tanks under the cabin and the - - - - the more I look at it the more I see what still needs doing. AAAAA!!!!!!


To answer the $64,000 question (none of this petty $0.02), what are you going to do when you build the wood burner? Use the coal tender??? Come on Bruce, admit it, you WILL eventually build it… It's like a good beer, you just can't stop at one…

If you can multi-task and display exemplary self control, the coal does look better.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 8 Put it together just to see how it may look.*
> 
> If you see something you think needs some work tell me now it's all glued up tomorrow.
> I still need to finish up the wheel linkage but that's about all besides making the coal or wood car.
> To me the wood car looks better, which one do you like.
> O! and I guess I need to build the bell to fill that spot on the boiler roof and the tanks under the cabin and the - - - - the more I look at it the more I see what still needs doing. AAAAA!!!!!!





> If you see something you think needs some work tell me now it s all glued up tomorrow.


Without sounding repetitive…. *TRACKS*.

Actually if you ever build them, I'll have nothing to complain about.


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## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 8 Put it together just to see how it may look.*
> 
> If you see something you think needs some work tell me now it's all glued up tomorrow.
> I still need to finish up the wheel linkage but that's about all besides making the coal or wood car.
> To me the wood car looks better, which one do you like.
> O! and I guess I need to build the bell to fill that spot on the boiler roof and the tanks under the cabin and the - - - - the more I look at it the more I see what still needs doing. AAAAA!!!!!!


Is one of those 2 "barrel looking thingys" on the boiler the whistle? If not, you need a whistle !

Yes, I have been following along, but you put so many little details on these blogs that I have forgotten if one is the whistle. (That, plus I'm too lazy to scroll back thru all these pages to see. )

Lookin' good. Bud !


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## htl

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 8 Put it together just to see how it may look.*
> 
> If you see something you think needs some work tell me now it's all glued up tomorrow.
> I still need to finish up the wheel linkage but that's about all besides making the coal or wood car.
> To me the wood car looks better, which one do you like.
> O! and I guess I need to build the bell to fill that spot on the boiler roof and the tanks under the cabin and the - - - - the more I look at it the more I see what still needs doing. AAAAA!!!!!!


Joe, here I thought I was leaving things out.
The dome closest to the cabin should have the whistle at the top.
There is whistle on the top of both but only one works LOL, the one close to the cabin.

TRACK! WOO! TRACK! TRACK! WOO! WOO! TRACK! TRACK! TRACK! WOO! WOO! WOO! TRACK! TRACK! TRACK! And away we go.

Ducky like I said just from looking at the plans the wood tender looked better but the more I look at mr woodys trains the coal tender does look great more stream lined,and I think my train looks more stream lined so.
AAAAAAAAA!!!!!
LOL
I guess we'll find out when I start cutting the wood and it tells me what it wants.


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## Splintered_Thumb

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 8 Put it together just to see how it may look.*
> 
> If you see something you think needs some work tell me now it's all glued up tomorrow.
> I still need to finish up the wheel linkage but that's about all besides making the coal or wood car.
> To me the wood car looks better, which one do you like.
> O! and I guess I need to build the bell to fill that spot on the boiler roof and the tanks under the cabin and the - - - - the more I look at it the more I see what still needs doing. AAAAA!!!!!!


Built that project for my brother two Christmas's ago. I also liked the sleeker design o fthe coal car over the wood one. Decided to use solid copper wire for all the rails and strips instead of wood. Added a fine brass chain to the bell. I like the look of the track in these pictures so looks like I may have to get those added to his and make it look more complete.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 8 Put it together just to see how it may look.*
> 
> If you see something you think needs some work tell me now it's all glued up tomorrow.
> I still need to finish up the wheel linkage but that's about all besides making the coal or wood car.
> To me the wood car looks better, which one do you like.
> O! and I guess I need to build the bell to fill that spot on the boiler roof and the tanks under the cabin and the - - - - the more I look at it the more I see what still needs doing. AAAAA!!!!!!


*Thumb* as you've seen ducky keeps after me to *make the track and I will* just haven't got to it yet.
Putting Mr woody's trains up together really helped me make my mind up on some things , and as I'm building mine smaller the copper wire would be a great way to get those touch's I have been leaving out of my builds because of the difficulties of using wood.
So thanks for the push there.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 8 Put it together just to see how it may look.*
> 
> If you see something you think needs some work tell me now it's all glued up tomorrow.
> I still need to finish up the wheel linkage but that's about all besides making the coal or wood car.
> To me the wood car looks better, which one do you like.
> O! and I guess I need to build the bell to fill that spot on the boiler roof and the tanks under the cabin and the - - - - the more I look at it the more I see what still needs doing. AAAAA!!!!!!





> ...So thanks for the push there.


Doin't thank me or talk about it… Make the track….


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 8 Put it together just to see how it may look.*
> 
> If you see something you think needs some work tell me now it's all glued up tomorrow.
> I still need to finish up the wheel linkage but that's about all besides making the coal or wood car.
> To me the wood car looks better, which one do you like.
> O! and I guess I need to build the bell to fill that spot on the boiler roof and the tanks under the cabin and the - - - - the more I look at it the more I see what still needs doing. AAAAA!!!!!!





> ... copper wire…


Non-wooden parts, htl, you surrendering to the "dark side"????

In small print "actually it could look good". (didn't know how to reduce the font.)


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## htl

*Coal Train Build day 9 train tender*

Just had to get away from all the small stuff needed for the train engine so built the tender today.

*Start*







































































































































*Nearly finished day one.*
Thought I'd try and do like one of Dutchys great blogs and let the pictures do the talking for once.
Now this is the kind a builds I really like still have to make the wheel covers and add the water tanks in the back but other than that it'd a done deal and had a lot of fun building it.

This is a coal car tender with a wood tender water toting back end. LOL
If you can't make up your mind morph them together. Why not?


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## bruce317

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 9 train tender*
> 
> Just had to get away from all the small stuff needed for the train engine so built the tender today.
> 
> *Start*
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> *Nearly finished day one.*
> Thought I'd try and do like one of Dutchys great blogs and let the pictures do the talking for once.
> Now this is the kind a builds I really like still have to make the wheel covers and add the water tanks in the back but other than that it'd a done deal and had a lot of fun building it.
> 
> This is a coal car tender with a wood tender water toting back end. LOL
> If you can't make up your mind morph them together. Why not?


Another great build by you. I love it! 
Bruce


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## htl

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 9 train tender*
> 
> Just had to get away from all the small stuff needed for the train engine so built the tender today.
> 
> *Start*
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> *Nearly finished day one.*
> Thought I'd try and do like one of Dutchys great blogs and let the pictures do the talking for once.
> Now this is the kind a builds I really like still have to make the wheel covers and add the water tanks in the back but other than that it'd a done deal and had a lot of fun building it.
> 
> This is a coal car tender with a wood tender water toting back end. LOL
> If you can't make up your mind morph them together. Why not?


Thanks Bruce
I really had fun building this simple project.
There something about small one and two day projects that appeals to me.
The instant gratification of a fun project finished and done.
I'm not one of those people that could work on a project for months or even years don't have that kind of will power.
Once I get started on a project that's all I can think about and it takes a lot a energy, I'm finding I an running in short supply of lately.
So the shorter projects just work better for me.
Bruce TOO!


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 9 train tender*
> 
> Just had to get away from all the small stuff needed for the train engine so built the tender today.
> 
> *Start*
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> *Nearly finished day one.*
> Thought I'd try and do like one of Dutchys great blogs and let the pictures do the talking for once.
> Now this is the kind a builds I really like still have to make the wheel covers and add the water tanks in the back but other than that it'd a done deal and had a lot of fun building it.
> 
> This is a coal car tender with a wood tender water toting back end. LOL
> If you can't make up your mind morph them together. Why not?





> Just had to get away from all the small stuff needed for the train engine…


Glanced through the first few words of your intro and looked at the first picture and thought… "Making of *TRACKS*".... finally… only to be disappointed by the second and following picture… oh well (or not so well).

Still, great build and even greater progress.

When looking at other models, your spokes really stand out and make it one of it's own. I'm sure you won't forget, but at the moment, the wheel looks a tad naked without the counter weights.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 9 train tender*
> 
> Just had to get away from all the small stuff needed for the train engine so built the tender today.
> 
> *Start*
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> *Nearly finished day one.*
> Thought I'd try and do like one of Dutchys great blogs and let the pictures do the talking for once.
> Now this is the kind a builds I really like still have to make the wheel covers and add the water tanks in the back but other than that it'd a done deal and had a lot of fun building it.
> 
> This is a coal car tender with a wood tender water toting back end. LOL
> If you can't make up your mind morph them together. Why not?


Here you go coming in here after a hard days night, I mean day of building trains and all you can say is tracks tracks tracks. lol

When and if I can get this thing done I was thinking of building a bridge acrossed my wall.
I have a wall full of shelves and am thinking of an expansion bridge to give my train and cars a place to be displayed.

Ducky the counter weights and the linkage and all has got me on the run, just tired of the small stuff and the tracks just might be another side road to keep me away from them and the two water tanks and lets see what else needs doing.
Could build the breeze way on the roof, but not really in to that but may.
The bell to fill in that empty place over the boiler.
There's also some hand rails but not really interested in that stuff so may leave that off if no ones looking.
O! and the head light.
On the full size plans these things are quite easy to do but at my scale it's a pain.

Tomorrow I'll take a picture of the plans next to my caboose and you be shocked at the size difference.
Don't get me wrong I'm glad I went smaller just makes it harder on the really small stuff.


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 9 train tender*
> 
> Just had to get away from all the small stuff needed for the train engine so built the tender today.
> 
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> *Nearly finished day one.*
> Thought I'd try and do like one of Dutchys great blogs and let the pictures do the talking for once.
> Now this is the kind a builds I really like still have to make the wheel covers and add the water tanks in the back but other than that it'd a done deal and had a lot of fun building it.
> 
> This is a coal car tender with a wood tender water toting back end. LOL
> If you can't make up your mind morph them together. Why not?


I like it very much. Special the "kiddy cart".

I was able te read and understand the hole story. And to say it with your words; LOL.


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 9 train tender*
> 
> Just had to get away from all the small stuff needed for the train engine so built the tender today.
> 
> *Start*
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> *Nearly finished day one.*
> Thought I'd try and do like one of Dutchys great blogs and let the pictures do the talking for once.
> Now this is the kind a builds I really like still have to make the wheel covers and add the water tanks in the back but other than that it'd a done deal and had a lot of fun building it.
> 
> This is a coal car tender with a wood tender water toting back end. LOL
> If you can't make up your mind morph them together. Why not?





> Don t get me wrong I m glad I went smaller just *makes it harder* on the really small stuff.
> 
> - htl


I have warned you.


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 9 train tender*
> 
> Just had to get away from all the small stuff needed for the train engine so built the tender today.
> 
> *Start*
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> *Nearly finished day one.*
> Thought I'd try and do like one of Dutchys great blogs and let the pictures do the talking for once.
> Now this is the kind a builds I really like still have to make the wheel covers and add the water tanks in the back but other than that it'd a done deal and had a lot of fun building it.
> 
> This is a coal car tender with a wood tender water toting back end. LOL
> If you can't make up your mind morph them together. Why not?





> Thanks Bruce
> 
> Bruce TOO!
> 
> - htl


How does it come that when your name is Bruce you like toy building?

http://lumberjocks.com/BruceBarber

http://lumberjocks.com/johnstoneb

http://lumberjocks.com/bruce317

http://lumberjocks.com/htl


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## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 9 train tender*
> 
> Just had to get away from all the small stuff needed for the train engine so built the tender today.
> 
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> *Nearly finished day one.*
> Thought I'd try and do like one of Dutchys great blogs and let the pictures do the talking for once.
> Now this is the kind a builds I really like still have to make the wheel covers and add the water tanks in the back but other than that it'd a done deal and had a lot of fun building it.
> 
> This is a coal car tender with a wood tender water toting back end. LOL
> If you can't make up your mind morph them together. Why not?


You cranked that out in one day? Props to you my good Sir!
.
.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 9 train tender*
> 
> Just had to get away from all the small stuff needed for the train engine so built the tender today.
> 
> *Start*
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> *Nearly finished day one.*
> Thought I'd try and do like one of Dutchys great blogs and let the pictures do the talking for once.
> Now this is the kind a builds I really like still have to make the wheel covers and add the water tanks in the back but other than that it'd a done deal and had a lot of fun building it.
> 
> This is a coal car tender with a wood tender water toting back end. LOL
> If you can't make up your mind morph them together. Why not?


Joe I already had the wheels made.
When I built my last car I had it in mind to build a box car so made the wheels so had them on hand for this, now how cool is that.
Joe if you could see the plans for these toys their quite simple.
I print out the pictures and cut out the harder parts, glue to a piece a wood and your done.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 9 train tender*
> 
> Just had to get away from all the small stuff needed for the train engine so built the tender today.
> 
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> 
> *Nearly finished day one.*
> Thought I'd try and do like one of Dutchys great blogs and let the pictures do the talking for once.
> Now this is the kind a builds I really like still have to make the wheel covers and add the water tanks in the back but other than that it'd a done deal and had a lot of fun building it.
> 
> This is a coal car tender with a wood tender water toting back end. LOL
> If you can't make up your mind morph them together. Why not?


You make it look so easy to do but I'm sure it wasn't as simple as the photos & notes suggest….thank you.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 9 train tender*
> 
> Just had to get away from all the small stuff needed for the train engine so built the tender today.
> 
> *Start*
> 
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> 
> 
> *Nearly finished day one.*
> Thought I'd try and do like one of Dutchys great blogs and let the pictures do the talking for once.
> Now this is the kind a builds I really like still have to make the wheel covers and add the water tanks in the back but other than that it'd a done deal and had a lot of fun building it.
> 
> This is a coal car tender with a wood tender water toting back end. LOL
> If you can't make up your mind morph them together. Why not?


Just having fun with the camera and unfinished train.
Sorry ducky still no tracks.

It just hit me I have the perfect back drop for the train.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 9 train tender*
> 
> Just had to get away from all the small stuff needed for the train engine so built the tender today.
> 
> *Start*
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> *Nearly finished day one.*
> Thought I'd try and do like one of Dutchys great blogs and let the pictures do the talking for once.
> Now this is the kind a builds I really like still have to make the wheel covers and add the water tanks in the back but other than that it'd a done deal and had a lot of fun building it.
> 
> This is a coal car tender with a wood tender water toting back end. LOL
> If you can't make up your mind morph them together. Why not?


Maybe no tracks [yet] BUT WOW it looks great setup as a train….


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## htl

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 9 train tender*
> 
> Just had to get away from all the small stuff needed for the train engine so built the tender today.
> 
> *Start*
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> *Nearly finished day one.*
> Thought I'd try and do like one of Dutchys great blogs and let the pictures do the talking for once.
> Now this is the kind a builds I really like still have to make the wheel covers and add the water tanks in the back but other than that it'd a done deal and had a lot of fun building it.
> 
> This is a coal car tender with a wood tender water toting back end. LOL
> If you can't make up your mind morph them together. Why not?


Thanks crowie
This scratch built doll house and the two doll house kits I build before it were what got me back in to toy building after 30 years.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 9 train tender*
> 
> Just had to get away from all the small stuff needed for the train engine so built the tender today.
> 
> *Start*
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Nearly finished day one.*
> Thought I'd try and do like one of Dutchys great blogs and let the pictures do the talking for once.
> Now this is the kind a builds I really like still have to make the wheel covers and add the water tanks in the back but other than that it'd a done deal and had a lot of fun building it.
> 
> This is a coal car tender with a wood tender water toting back end. LOL
> If you can't make up your mind morph them together. Why not?


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## Dee1

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build day 9 train tender*
> 
> Just had to get away from all the small stuff needed for the train engine so built the tender today.
> 
> *Start*
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Nearly finished day one.*
> Thought I'd try and do like one of Dutchys great blogs and let the pictures do the talking for once.
> Now this is the kind a builds I really like still have to make the wheel covers and add the water tanks in the back but other than that it'd a done deal and had a lot of fun building it.
> 
> This is a coal car tender with a wood tender water toting back end. LOL
> If you can't make up your mind morph them together. Why not?


I echo what everyone else has said what a great build I love it . 
Dee1


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## htl

*Coal Train Build Shows the difference in size*

I keep talking about the difference in size well here's some examples using the caboose, the Root beer can will help with the real size of things.


















Now just some pictures with the cars all together.
If I would have been useing the plans full size the train and caboose would be falling off the table.



















It's about time for me to be figuring out what I'm going to build next???
My plan choices are the 
32 Lincoln Kb #52









The Tank Truck #33

Now that I have this truck shape theirs a ton a different ways to configure it.









Hummer #97
You all know what it looks like.

I'm not wanting to get into something as involved as the Hummer right now so the car or truck will do unless some picture catches my eye and I go scratch building again,

But first I need to rearrange the shop now that I have the Two SS in there* which have been a really big help* I'm having to move around to much and need a more organized setup.


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## johnstoneb

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build Shows the difference in size*
> 
> I keep talking about the difference in size well here's some examples using the caboose, the Root beer can will help with the real size of things.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just some pictures with the cars all together.
> If I would have been useing the plans full size the train and caboose would be falling off the table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's about time for me to be figuring out what I'm going to build next???
> My plan choices are the
> 32 Lincoln Kb #52
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Tank Truck #33
> 
> Now that I have this truck shape theirs a ton a different ways to configure it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hummer #97
> You all know what it looks like.
> 
> I'm not wanting to get into something as involved as the Hummer right now so the car or truck will do unless some picture catches my eye and I go scratch building again,
> 
> But first I need to rearrange the shop now that I have the Two SS in there* which have been a really big help* I'm having to move around to much and need a more organized setup.


Looking forward to your next build. I have started on the T&J garbage truck. I am also working on a glockenspiel as practice before building a marimba and making some more wine tables and one other project that I forget what it is but there is a pile of lumber in the shop partially cut up. I might blog the garbage truck when I get time.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build Shows the difference in size*
> 
> I keep talking about the difference in size well here's some examples using the caboose, the Root beer can will help with the real size of things.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just some pictures with the cars all together.
> If I would have been useing the plans full size the train and caboose would be falling off the table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's about time for me to be figuring out what I'm going to build next???
> My plan choices are the
> 32 Lincoln Kb #52
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Tank Truck #33
> 
> Now that I have this truck shape theirs a ton a different ways to configure it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hummer #97
> You all know what it looks like.
> 
> I'm not wanting to get into something as involved as the Hummer right now so the car or truck will do unless some picture catches my eye and I go scratch building again,
> 
> But first I need to rearrange the shop now that I have the Two SS in there* which have been a really big help* I'm having to move around to much and need a more organized setup.


John that garbage truck looks like a fun build.
We always have lived way out in the country where getting rid of the garbage was a pain.
Four years ago we moved to the city and have 3 different kinds of trash pick up.
So where am I going here, my wife loved to hear the trucks coming and getting the trash.
I asked if she wanted me to build her one but she said no i got the real thing now! LOL

Ps I had to research what a glockenspiel was looks like fun also.
Do you buy the metal for them in a kit or what.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build Shows the difference in size*
> 
> I keep talking about the difference in size well here's some examples using the caboose, the Root beer can will help with the real size of things.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just some pictures with the cars all together.
> If I would have been useing the plans full size the train and caboose would be falling off the table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's about time for me to be figuring out what I'm going to build next???
> My plan choices are the
> 32 Lincoln Kb #52
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Tank Truck #33
> 
> Now that I have this truck shape theirs a ton a different ways to configure it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hummer #97
> You all know what it looks like.
> 
> I'm not wanting to get into something as involved as the Hummer right now so the car or truck will do unless some picture catches my eye and I go scratch building again,
> 
> But first I need to rearrange the shop now that I have the Two SS in there* which have been a really big help* I'm having to move around to much and need a more organized setup.


John I had to check out what a glockenspiel was and looks very interesting.
Do you buy the metal parts in a kit or what?


----------



## johnstoneb

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build Shows the difference in size*
> 
> I keep talking about the difference in size well here's some examples using the caboose, the Root beer can will help with the real size of things.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just some pictures with the cars all together.
> If I would have been useing the plans full size the train and caboose would be falling off the table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's about time for me to be figuring out what I'm going to build next???
> My plan choices are the
> 32 Lincoln Kb #52
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Tank Truck #33
> 
> Now that I have this truck shape theirs a ton a different ways to configure it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hummer #97
> You all know what it looks like.
> 
> I'm not wanting to get into something as involved as the Hummer right now so the car or truck will do unless some picture catches my eye and I go scratch building again,
> 
> But first I need to rearrange the shop now that I have the Two SS in there* which have been a really big help* I'm having to move around to much and need a more organized setup.


I bought the plans for the marimba and they had a special on plans for making the mallets for the marimba. They included a free plan for the glockenspiel. After reading all the different plans decided might be best to build and tune the glock before trying the marimba. It is turning out to be a good idea. The frame is from cherry the keys are 1/8" by 3/4" aluminum bar stock. I cut to length and then tune.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build Shows the difference in size*
> 
> I keep talking about the difference in size well here's some examples using the caboose, the Root beer can will help with the real size of things.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just some pictures with the cars all together.
> If I would have been useing the plans full size the train and caboose would be falling off the table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's about time for me to be figuring out what I'm going to build next???
> My plan choices are the
> 32 Lincoln Kb #52
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Tank Truck #33
> 
> Now that I have this truck shape theirs a ton a different ways to configure it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hummer #97
> You all know what it looks like.
> 
> I'm not wanting to get into something as involved as the Hummer right now so the car or truck will do unless some picture catches my eye and I go scratch building again,
> 
> But first I need to rearrange the shop now that I have the Two SS in there* which have been a really big help* I'm having to move around to much and need a more organized setup.


One day Bruce I how to take the time to also build some beautiful models like yours sir…


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build Shows the difference in size*
> 
> I keep talking about the difference in size well here's some examples using the caboose, the Root beer can will help with the real size of things.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just some pictures with the cars all together.
> If I would have been useing the plans full size the train and caboose would be falling off the table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's about time for me to be figuring out what I'm going to build next???
> My plan choices are the
> 32 Lincoln Kb #52
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Tank Truck #33
> 
> Now that I have this truck shape theirs a ton a different ways to configure it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hummer #97
> You all know what it looks like.
> 
> I'm not wanting to get into something as involved as the Hummer right now so the car or truck will do unless some picture catches my eye and I go scratch building again,
> 
> But first I need to rearrange the shop now that I have the Two SS in there* which have been a really big help* I'm having to move around to much and need a more organized setup.


You are building models; not toys! They will be to precious to be out in the dirt!

I will want to see the tanker, Please!


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build Shows the difference in size*
> 
> I keep talking about the difference in size well here's some examples using the caboose, the Root beer can will help with the real size of things.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just some pictures with the cars all together.
> If I would have been useing the plans full size the train and caboose would be falling off the table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's about time for me to be figuring out what I'm going to build next???
> My plan choices are the
> 32 Lincoln Kb #52
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Tank Truck #33
> 
> Now that I have this truck shape theirs a ton a different ways to configure it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hummer #97
> You all know what it looks like.
> 
> I'm not wanting to get into something as involved as the Hummer right now so the car or truck will do unless some picture catches my eye and I go scratch building again,
> 
> But first I need to rearrange the shop now that I have the Two SS in there* which have been a really big help* I'm having to move around to much and need a more organized setup.


I like the tank truck.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build Shows the difference in size*
> 
> I keep talking about the difference in size well here's some examples using the caboose, the Root beer can will help with the real size of things.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just some pictures with the cars all together.
> If I would have been useing the plans full size the train and caboose would be falling off the table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's about time for me to be figuring out what I'm going to build next???
> My plan choices are the
> 32 Lincoln Kb #52
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Tank Truck #33
> 
> Now that I have this truck shape theirs a ton a different ways to configure it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hummer #97
> You all know what it looks like.
> 
> I'm not wanting to get into something as involved as the Hummer right now so the car or truck will do unless some picture catches my eye and I go scratch building again,
> 
> But first I need to rearrange the shop now that I have the Two SS in there* which have been a really big help* I'm having to move around to much and need a more organized setup.





> If I would have been useing the plans full size the train and caboose would be falling off the table.


Not if you had *TRACKS*.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build Shows the difference in size*
> 
> I keep talking about the difference in size well here's some examples using the caboose, the Root beer can will help with the real size of things.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just some pictures with the cars all together.
> If I would have been useing the plans full size the train and caboose would be falling off the table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's about time for me to be figuring out what I'm going to build next???
> My plan choices are the
> 32 Lincoln Kb #52
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Tank Truck #33
> 
> Now that I have this truck shape theirs a ton a different ways to configure it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hummer #97
> You all know what it looks like.
> 
> I'm not wanting to get into something as involved as the Hummer right now so the car or truck will do unless some picture catches my eye and I go scratch building again,
> 
> But first I need to rearrange the shop now that I have the Two SS in there* which have been a really big help* I'm having to move around to much and need a more organized setup.





> If I would have been useing the plans full size the train and caboose would be falling off the table.


Not if you had *TRACKS*.


----------



## bruce317

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build Shows the difference in size*
> 
> I keep talking about the difference in size well here's some examples using the caboose, the Root beer can will help with the real size of things.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just some pictures with the cars all together.
> If I would have been useing the plans full size the train and caboose would be falling off the table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's about time for me to be figuring out what I'm going to build next???
> My plan choices are the
> 32 Lincoln Kb #52
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Tank Truck #33
> 
> Now that I have this truck shape theirs a ton a different ways to configure it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hummer #97
> You all know what it looks like.
> 
> I'm not wanting to get into something as involved as the Hummer right now so the car or truck will do unless some picture catches my eye and I go scratch building again,
> 
> But first I need to rearrange the shop now that I have the Two SS in there* which have been a really big help* I'm having to move around to much and need a more organized setup.


Bruce. 
Your train is Great!!
My vote is for the tank truck.
bruce


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build Shows the difference in size*
> 
> I keep talking about the difference in size well here's some examples using the caboose, the Root beer can will help with the real size of things.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just some pictures with the cars all together.
> If I would have been useing the plans full size the train and caboose would be falling off the table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's about time for me to be figuring out what I'm going to build next???
> My plan choices are the
> 32 Lincoln Kb #52
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Tank Truck #33
> 
> Now that I have this truck shape theirs a ton a different ways to configure it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hummer #97
> You all know what it looks like.
> 
> I'm not wanting to get into something as involved as the Hummer right now so the car or truck will do unless some picture catches my eye and I go scratch building again,
> 
> But first I need to rearrange the shop now that I have the Two SS in there* which have been a really big help* I'm having to move around to much and need a more organized setup.


I also vote for the tanker … 
.
.
.
Oh, and after that you should build one of these. I LOVE the sound of these things ! 
.
.
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=lionel+hampton+marimba&&view=detail&mid=2531325E05D595E1240F2531325E05D595E1240F&FORM=VRDGAR

.
.

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=marimba+music&&view=detail&mid=F797EB42C90ADC279D88F797EB42C90ADC279D88&FORM=VRDGAR


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build Shows the difference in size*
> 
> I keep talking about the difference in size well here's some examples using the caboose, the Root beer can will help with the real size of things.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just some pictures with the cars all together.
> If I would have been useing the plans full size the train and caboose would be falling off the table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's about time for me to be figuring out what I'm going to build next???
> My plan choices are the
> 32 Lincoln Kb #52
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Tank Truck #33
> 
> Now that I have this truck shape theirs a ton a different ways to configure it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hummer #97
> You all know what it looks like.
> 
> I'm not wanting to get into something as involved as the Hummer right now so the car or truck will do unless some picture catches my eye and I go scratch building again,
> 
> But first I need to rearrange the shop now that I have the Two SS in there* which have been a really big help* I'm having to move around to much and need a more organized setup.


Joe your on to something there!!!

I all ways wanted to play the guitar and ask my focks to get me classes but instead they got me Accordion Lessons
and you know how long that lasted back in the 1966 or so.
Be thinking Cream, lead zeppelin and the like. lol
But I've come to think that the drums would work for me but looking at your I can't remember what it was called them would be fun to play.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build Shows the difference in size*
> 
> I keep talking about the difference in size well here's some examples using the caboose, the Root beer can will help with the real size of things.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just some pictures with the cars all together.
> If I would have been useing the plans full size the train and caboose would be falling off the table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's about time for me to be figuring out what I'm going to build next???
> My plan choices are the
> 32 Lincoln Kb #52
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Tank Truck #33
> 
> Now that I have this truck shape theirs a ton a different ways to configure it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hummer #97
> You all know what it looks like.
> 
> I'm not wanting to get into something as involved as the Hummer right now so the car or truck will do unless some picture catches my eye and I go scratch building again,
> 
> But first I need to rearrange the shop now that I have the Two SS in there* which have been a really big help* I'm having to move around to much and need a more organized setup.


Ducky I'm going to change your name to 
*WantsTrackys* LOL


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Coal Train Build Shows the difference in size*
> 
> I keep talking about the difference in size well here's some examples using the caboose, the Root beer can will help with the real size of things.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just some pictures with the cars all together.
> If I would have been useing the plans full size the train and caboose would be falling off the table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's about time for me to be figuring out what I'm going to build next???
> My plan choices are the
> 32 Lincoln Kb #52
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Tank Truck #33
> 
> Now that I have this truck shape theirs a ton a different ways to configure it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hummer #97
> You all know what it looks like.
> 
> I'm not wanting to get into something as involved as the Hummer right now so the car or truck will do unless some picture catches my eye and I go scratch building again,
> 
> But first I need to rearrange the shop now that I have the Two SS in there* which have been a really big help* I'm having to move around to much and need a more organized setup.





> One day Bruce I how to take the time to also build some beautiful models like yours sir…
> 
> - crowie


crowie that last monster truck you make was way cool and looked like a ball to make.


----------



## htl

*32 Lincoln Kb I know not the truck*

I got looking at the tanker truck and it's not the one in the picture.
I got it on sale at Grizzly for $4 so will get it's turn but will take quite a bit a mind games to do what I want so holding off on it right now.

Got the Lincoln at the same time and price and is a very simple build.
I've never built an old production car so this could be fun.
Here's the build picture.









I really wanted and need to change the shop around but once I got figuing on the car the shop changed went out the window for now.
This is another quick build there's not really much to it but really this is what I'm into right now quick and fun.
The bonnet and roof look to be the only real shaping well and the fender.
Here's what I got done today and a couple hours yesterday.
Cut out the frame and body parts.


















Glued up for the hood.









I still can't be-leave I made that SS miter gauge to work with my dewalt, I have used it a bunch since I made it and it really has made my life easier.

Cutting the hood at such an odd angle and being so thick, felt better using a clamp to keep it in place while I cut it.


















On small stuff like this I much prefer to make it in two cuts[when using the fence], just feels safer to me but with this I wanted a clean edge so the 10" blade and a clamp got it done.

Here I'm sanding the hood which turned out to be quite interesting, but the SS was up to the challenge. lol
The front and back of the hood both had different shaped patterns to follow so it was quite fun getting the SS set up to sand it.
If they would have told what the angle was to do it sure would have made it so much easier.



















Its starting to come together.
I can't be leave I have no pictures of the radiator work.
I used that grove making trick again and also on the seats as you will see.



























Got the roof glued up for the next time I get in the shop and also the trunk box.
As you can see I glued it up in strips the hood was done the same way so they should match up I hope.









Here's the seats I used the grove trick hoping they will look like pleated seats.









This is all cherry but the seats are mahogany.

Sorry Ducky but the tracks will have to wait, I just have no interest in making any at this time.

That's all folks.


----------



## johnstoneb

htl said:


> *32 Lincoln Kb I know not the truck*
> 
> I got looking at the tanker truck and it's not the one in the picture.
> I got it on sale at Grizzly for $4 so will get it's turn but will take quite a bit a mind games to do what I want so holding off on it right now.
> 
> Got the Lincoln at the same time and price and is a very simple build.
> I've never built an old production car so this could be fun.
> Here's the build picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really wanted and need to change the shop around but once I got figuing on the car the shop changed went out the window for now.
> This is another quick build there's not really much to it but really this is what I'm into right now quick and fun.
> The bonnet and roof look to be the only real shaping well and the fender.
> Here's what I got done today and a couple hours yesterday.
> Cut out the frame and body parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued up for the hood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still can't be-leave I made that SS miter gauge to work with my dewalt, I have used it a bunch since I made it and it really has made my life easier.
> 
> Cutting the hood at such an odd angle and being so thick, felt better using a clamp to keep it in place while I cut it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On small stuff like this I much prefer to make it in two cuts[when using the fence], just feels safer to me but with this I wanted a clean edge so the 10" blade and a clamp got it done.
> 
> Here I'm sanding the hood which turned out to be quite interesting, but the SS was up to the challenge. lol
> The front and back of the hood both had different shaped patterns to follow so it was quite fun getting the SS set up to sand it.
> If they would have told what the angle was to do it sure would have made it so much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its starting to come together.
> I can't be leave I have no pictures of the radiator work.
> I used that grove making trick again and also on the seats as you will see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got the roof glued up for the next time I get in the shop and also the trunk box.
> As you can see I glued it up in strips the hood was done the same way so they should match up I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the seats I used the grove trick hoping they will look like pleated seats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is all cherry but the seats are mahogany.
> 
> Sorry Ducky but the tracks will have to wait, I just have no interest in making any at this time.
> 
> That's all folks.


Doesn't take you long once you start on something. It's looking good.


----------



## bruce317

htl said:


> *32 Lincoln Kb I know not the truck*
> 
> I got looking at the tanker truck and it's not the one in the picture.
> I got it on sale at Grizzly for $4 so will get it's turn but will take quite a bit a mind games to do what I want so holding off on it right now.
> 
> Got the Lincoln at the same time and price and is a very simple build.
> I've never built an old production car so this could be fun.
> Here's the build picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really wanted and need to change the shop around but once I got figuing on the car the shop changed went out the window for now.
> This is another quick build there's not really much to it but really this is what I'm into right now quick and fun.
> The bonnet and roof look to be the only real shaping well and the fender.
> Here's what I got done today and a couple hours yesterday.
> Cut out the frame and body parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued up for the hood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still can't be-leave I made that SS miter gauge to work with my dewalt, I have used it a bunch since I made it and it really has made my life easier.
> 
> Cutting the hood at such an odd angle and being so thick, felt better using a clamp to keep it in place while I cut it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On small stuff like this I much prefer to make it in two cuts[when using the fence], just feels safer to me but with this I wanted a clean edge so the 10" blade and a clamp got it done.
> 
> Here I'm sanding the hood which turned out to be quite interesting, but the SS was up to the challenge. lol
> The front and back of the hood both had different shaped patterns to follow so it was quite fun getting the SS set up to sand it.
> If they would have told what the angle was to do it sure would have made it so much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its starting to come together.
> I can't be leave I have no pictures of the radiator work.
> I used that grove making trick again and also on the seats as you will see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got the roof glued up for the next time I get in the shop and also the trunk box.
> As you can see I glued it up in strips the hood was done the same way so they should match up I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the seats I used the grove trick hoping they will look like pleated seats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is all cherry but the seats are mahogany.
> 
> Sorry Ducky but the tracks will have to wait, I just have no interest in making any at this time.
> 
> That's all folks.


Bruce,
Looking good as all your other builds.
I think one would say your right on TRACK with this build. Just had to say that.
Bruce
P.S. At this moment the Bruce's have it.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *32 Lincoln Kb I know not the truck*
> 
> I got looking at the tanker truck and it's not the one in the picture.
> I got it on sale at Grizzly for $4 so will get it's turn but will take quite a bit a mind games to do what I want so holding off on it right now.
> 
> Got the Lincoln at the same time and price and is a very simple build.
> I've never built an old production car so this could be fun.
> Here's the build picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really wanted and need to change the shop around but once I got figuing on the car the shop changed went out the window for now.
> This is another quick build there's not really much to it but really this is what I'm into right now quick and fun.
> The bonnet and roof look to be the only real shaping well and the fender.
> Here's what I got done today and a couple hours yesterday.
> Cut out the frame and body parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued up for the hood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still can't be-leave I made that SS miter gauge to work with my dewalt, I have used it a bunch since I made it and it really has made my life easier.
> 
> Cutting the hood at such an odd angle and being so thick, felt better using a clamp to keep it in place while I cut it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On small stuff like this I much prefer to make it in two cuts[when using the fence], just feels safer to me but with this I wanted a clean edge so the 10" blade and a clamp got it done.
> 
> Here I'm sanding the hood which turned out to be quite interesting, but the SS was up to the challenge. lol
> The front and back of the hood both had different shaped patterns to follow so it was quite fun getting the SS set up to sand it.
> If they would have told what the angle was to do it sure would have made it so much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its starting to come together.
> I can't be leave I have no pictures of the radiator work.
> I used that grove making trick again and also on the seats as you will see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got the roof glued up for the next time I get in the shop and also the trunk box.
> As you can see I glued it up in strips the hood was done the same way so they should match up I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the seats I used the grove trick hoping they will look like pleated seats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is all cherry but the seats are mahogany.
> 
> Sorry Ducky but the tracks will have to wait, I just have no interest in making any at this time.
> 
> That's all folks.


Bruce I'm having trouble keeping TRACK myself. LOL
John it's like I said it's supper simple but I haven't hit the fenders yet, never done one of those before.
The tank truck is the same way no frame super simple.
I get the impression these are the type of plans they started with and have advanced to the more complicated ones now a days.
When I start the truck I'm going to add a frame and who knows what.
May not even be a tanker when I'm done with it.
Was looking at some of the old hot rod trucks would be cool to go that way me thinks.
Bruce in Alabama


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *32 Lincoln Kb I know not the truck*
> 
> I got looking at the tanker truck and it's not the one in the picture.
> I got it on sale at Grizzly for $4 so will get it's turn but will take quite a bit a mind games to do what I want so holding off on it right now.
> 
> Got the Lincoln at the same time and price and is a very simple build.
> I've never built an old production car so this could be fun.
> Here's the build picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really wanted and need to change the shop around but once I got figuing on the car the shop changed went out the window for now.
> This is another quick build there's not really much to it but really this is what I'm into right now quick and fun.
> The bonnet and roof look to be the only real shaping well and the fender.
> Here's what I got done today and a couple hours yesterday.
> Cut out the frame and body parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued up for the hood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still can't be-leave I made that SS miter gauge to work with my dewalt, I have used it a bunch since I made it and it really has made my life easier.
> 
> Cutting the hood at such an odd angle and being so thick, felt better using a clamp to keep it in place while I cut it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On small stuff like this I much prefer to make it in two cuts[when using the fence], just feels safer to me but with this I wanted a clean edge so the 10" blade and a clamp got it done.
> 
> Here I'm sanding the hood which turned out to be quite interesting, but the SS was up to the challenge. lol
> The front and back of the hood both had different shaped patterns to follow so it was quite fun getting the SS set up to sand it.
> If they would have told what the angle was to do it sure would have made it so much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its starting to come together.
> I can't be leave I have no pictures of the radiator work.
> I used that grove making trick again and also on the seats as you will see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got the roof glued up for the next time I get in the shop and also the trunk box.
> As you can see I glued it up in strips the hood was done the same way so they should match up I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the seats I used the grove trick hoping they will look like pleated seats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is all cherry but the seats are mahogany.
> 
> Sorry Ducky but the tracks will have to wait, I just have no interest in making any at this time.
> 
> That's all folks.


I'm getting to know you, yet you keep amazing me with your speed, which would be impressive enough but when you add in the quality of your work… well, far from shabby. 


> I used that grove making trick again and also on the seats as you will see.


Is this in reference to the door kerfs as well?

I'll give you "E" for effort *for getting *in b4 me, however, unless this series is a lead up to a *fishing blog *this does not get you off the *hook*,


> Sorry Ducky but the tracks will have to wait, I just have no interest in making any at this time.


I an not *forgetting* the *tracks* and will keep hounding you till you get back on *TRACK*(s). Don't close your eyes.. I may have found a cure for my fear of flying (called "Build-a-track-a-phobia"). 
Wish there was such a thing as a *yellicon*.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *32 Lincoln Kb I know not the truck*
> 
> I got looking at the tanker truck and it's not the one in the picture.
> I got it on sale at Grizzly for $4 so will get it's turn but will take quite a bit a mind games to do what I want so holding off on it right now.
> 
> Got the Lincoln at the same time and price and is a very simple build.
> I've never built an old production car so this could be fun.
> Here's the build picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really wanted and need to change the shop around but once I got figuing on the car the shop changed went out the window for now.
> This is another quick build there's not really much to it but really this is what I'm into right now quick and fun.
> The bonnet and roof look to be the only real shaping well and the fender.
> Here's what I got done today and a couple hours yesterday.
> Cut out the frame and body parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued up for the hood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still can't be-leave I made that SS miter gauge to work with my dewalt, I have used it a bunch since I made it and it really has made my life easier.
> 
> Cutting the hood at such an odd angle and being so thick, felt better using a clamp to keep it in place while I cut it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On small stuff like this I much prefer to make it in two cuts[when using the fence], just feels safer to me but with this I wanted a clean edge so the 10" blade and a clamp got it done.
> 
> Here I'm sanding the hood which turned out to be quite interesting, but the SS was up to the challenge. lol
> The front and back of the hood both had different shaped patterns to follow so it was quite fun getting the SS set up to sand it.
> If they would have told what the angle was to do it sure would have made it so much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its starting to come together.
> I can't be leave I have no pictures of the radiator work.
> I used that grove making trick again and also on the seats as you will see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got the roof glued up for the next time I get in the shop and also the trunk box.
> As you can see I glued it up in strips the hood was done the same way so they should match up I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the seats I used the grove trick hoping they will look like pleated seats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is all cherry but the seats are mahogany.
> 
> Sorry Ducky but the tracks will have to wait, I just have no interest in making any at this time.
> 
> That's all folks.


Way back yesterday No! Way Way Back a month or more waaaay back I showed the groving tip for getting even groves for radiaters and the like.
Come to think of it, it might not have even been in this universe that I talked about it but I think so???.
Even before the 3 Bruces were made known to each other that far back.

Door kerfs were done on my sliding miter saw set high.

Ducky please don't get the YELLICON after me I don't think I can handle the volume,I'm already def in one ear and can't hear out the other..


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *32 Lincoln Kb I know not the truck*
> 
> I got looking at the tanker truck and it's not the one in the picture.
> I got it on sale at Grizzly for $4 so will get it's turn but will take quite a bit a mind games to do what I want so holding off on it right now.
> 
> Got the Lincoln at the same time and price and is a very simple build.
> I've never built an old production car so this could be fun.
> Here's the build picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really wanted and need to change the shop around but once I got figuing on the car the shop changed went out the window for now.
> This is another quick build there's not really much to it but really this is what I'm into right now quick and fun.
> The bonnet and roof look to be the only real shaping well and the fender.
> Here's what I got done today and a couple hours yesterday.
> Cut out the frame and body parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued up for the hood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still can't be-leave I made that SS miter gauge to work with my dewalt, I have used it a bunch since I made it and it really has made my life easier.
> 
> Cutting the hood at such an odd angle and being so thick, felt better using a clamp to keep it in place while I cut it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On small stuff like this I much prefer to make it in two cuts[when using the fence], just feels safer to me but with this I wanted a clean edge so the 10" blade and a clamp got it done.
> 
> Here I'm sanding the hood which turned out to be quite interesting, but the SS was up to the challenge. lol
> The front and back of the hood both had different shaped patterns to follow so it was quite fun getting the SS set up to sand it.
> If they would have told what the angle was to do it sure would have made it so much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its starting to come together.
> I can't be leave I have no pictures of the radiator work.
> I used that grove making trick again and also on the seats as you will see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got the roof glued up for the next time I get in the shop and also the trunk box.
> As you can see I glued it up in strips the hood was done the same way so they should match up I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the seats I used the grove trick hoping they will look like pleated seats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is all cherry but the seats are mahogany.
> 
> Sorry Ducky but the tracks will have to wait, I just have no interest in making any at this time.
> 
> That's all folks.





> Even before the 3 Bruces were made known to each other that far back.
> 
> - htl


Even before the *4* Bruces were made known to each other that far back.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *32 Lincoln Kb I know not the truck*
> 
> I got looking at the tanker truck and it's not the one in the picture.
> I got it on sale at Grizzly for $4 so will get it's turn but will take quite a bit a mind games to do what I want so holding off on it right now.
> 
> Got the Lincoln at the same time and price and is a very simple build.
> I've never built an old production car so this could be fun.
> Here's the build picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really wanted and need to change the shop around but once I got figuing on the car the shop changed went out the window for now.
> This is another quick build there's not really much to it but really this is what I'm into right now quick and fun.
> The bonnet and roof look to be the only real shaping well and the fender.
> Here's what I got done today and a couple hours yesterday.
> Cut out the frame and body parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued up for the hood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still can't be-leave I made that SS miter gauge to work with my dewalt, I have used it a bunch since I made it and it really has made my life easier.
> 
> Cutting the hood at such an odd angle and being so thick, felt better using a clamp to keep it in place while I cut it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On small stuff like this I much prefer to make it in two cuts[when using the fence], just feels safer to me but with this I wanted a clean edge so the 10" blade and a clamp got it done.
> 
> Here I'm sanding the hood which turned out to be quite interesting, but the SS was up to the challenge. lol
> The front and back of the hood both had different shaped patterns to follow so it was quite fun getting the SS set up to sand it.
> If they would have told what the angle was to do it sure would have made it so much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its starting to come together.
> I can't be leave I have no pictures of the radiator work.
> I used that grove making trick again and also on the seats as you will see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got the roof glued up for the next time I get in the shop and also the trunk box.
> As you can see I glued it up in strips the hood was done the same way so they should match up I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the seats I used the grove trick hoping they will look like pleated seats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is all cherry but the seats are mahogany.
> 
> Sorry Ducky but the tracks will have to wait, I just have no interest in making any at this time.
> 
> That's all folks.


You are in a hurry. Steam comes off.

BTW I like that Lincoln.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *32 Lincoln Kb I know not the truck*
> 
> I got looking at the tanker truck and it's not the one in the picture.
> I got it on sale at Grizzly for $4 so will get it's turn but will take quite a bit a mind games to do what I want so holding off on it right now.
> 
> Got the Lincoln at the same time and price and is a very simple build.
> I've never built an old production car so this could be fun.
> Here's the build picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really wanted and need to change the shop around but once I got figuing on the car the shop changed went out the window for now.
> This is another quick build there's not really much to it but really this is what I'm into right now quick and fun.
> The bonnet and roof look to be the only real shaping well and the fender.
> Here's what I got done today and a couple hours yesterday.
> Cut out the frame and body parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued up for the hood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still can't be-leave I made that SS miter gauge to work with my dewalt, I have used it a bunch since I made it and it really has made my life easier.
> 
> Cutting the hood at such an odd angle and being so thick, felt better using a clamp to keep it in place while I cut it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On small stuff like this I much prefer to make it in two cuts[when using the fence], just feels safer to me but with this I wanted a clean edge so the 10" blade and a clamp got it done.
> 
> Here I'm sanding the hood which turned out to be quite interesting, but the SS was up to the challenge. lol
> The front and back of the hood both had different shaped patterns to follow so it was quite fun getting the SS set up to sand it.
> If they would have told what the angle was to do it sure would have made it so much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its starting to come together.
> I can't be leave I have no pictures of the radiator work.
> I used that grove making trick again and also on the seats as you will see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got the roof glued up for the next time I get in the shop and also the trunk box.
> As you can see I glued it up in strips the hood was done the same way so they should match up I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the seats I used the grove trick hoping they will look like pleated seats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is all cherry but the seats are mahogany.
> 
> Sorry Ducky but the tracks will have to wait, I just have no interest in making any at this time.
> 
> That's all folks.


The grooving tip was here.
http://lumberjocks.com/htl/blog/82578
But was used in my very first post for the bulldozer radiator.
I guess I could have done a better job explaining it but???
I remember now that it was on another site[universe] where someone was having trouble getting it to work and I expanded on the idea..

Having some fun coming up with a wheel for this build[lincoln]. LOL
Dutchy & Ducky I think you'll like it, being the tire nuts you are.
I hope I can pull it off.

Sorry Bruce johnstoneb I keep calling you John I'm slow but I catch on after awhile.


----------



## hunter71

htl said:


> *32 Lincoln Kb I know not the truck*
> 
> I got looking at the tanker truck and it's not the one in the picture.
> I got it on sale at Grizzly for $4 so will get it's turn but will take quite a bit a mind games to do what I want so holding off on it right now.
> 
> Got the Lincoln at the same time and price and is a very simple build.
> I've never built an old production car so this could be fun.
> Here's the build picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really wanted and need to change the shop around but once I got figuing on the car the shop changed went out the window for now.
> This is another quick build there's not really much to it but really this is what I'm into right now quick and fun.
> The bonnet and roof look to be the only real shaping well and the fender.
> Here's what I got done today and a couple hours yesterday.
> Cut out the frame and body parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued up for the hood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still can't be-leave I made that SS miter gauge to work with my dewalt, I have used it a bunch since I made it and it really has made my life easier.
> 
> Cutting the hood at such an odd angle and being so thick, felt better using a clamp to keep it in place while I cut it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On small stuff like this I much prefer to make it in two cuts[when using the fence], just feels safer to me but with this I wanted a clean edge so the 10" blade and a clamp got it done.
> 
> Here I'm sanding the hood which turned out to be quite interesting, but the SS was up to the challenge. lol
> The front and back of the hood both had different shaped patterns to follow so it was quite fun getting the SS set up to sand it.
> If they would have told what the angle was to do it sure would have made it so much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its starting to come together.
> I can't be leave I have no pictures of the radiator work.
> I used that grove making trick again and also on the seats as you will see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got the roof glued up for the next time I get in the shop and also the trunk box.
> As you can see I glued it up in strips the hood was done the same way so they should match up I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the seats I used the grove trick hoping they will look like pleated seats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is all cherry but the seats are mahogany.
> 
> Sorry Ducky but the tracks will have to wait, I just have no interest in making any at this time.
> 
> That's all folks.


Ahhhh, good looking car,


----------



## htl

*32 Lincoln Kb 2.5 Spent the day making A wheel.*

The lincoln Kb needs some wheels and not just any wheels but the stock wheels that come with it when new.
Something like this 1932 Lincoln KB Roadster.
But I don't know about them white walls. LOL









Can it be done well I did it once took me all day hope I can get better on my next 7 tries.

But first need to catch up on how the cars coming along. [What was done Saturday]
Now hardly any thing is glued up, there are quite a few part that need gluing then shaping and then add another part glue shape you get the idea.




































Ok it's time for the rim I didn't even get to the tire but the rim is quite the project in itself!!!

This is just my first try so be kind.
I will need to do a lot more clean up to get them usable.
The oak you see on the out side will be the tire when cut out, should come out to be 2 3/4" when done.


















I spent half the day making parts and the other half trying to figure out how to get the spoke pattern right.
As you can see it's all in the spokes.
There's probable a hundred ways to do this but this is what I came up with.
I've made enough parts for 8 tires and rims so maybe by the time I get the first 4 made it will all come together.

Here's all the tires and rims cut out, and there's some great parts that came from the center of cuts that will make some great tires later on.










Here's all the parts needed.


























So I spent the whole day and got one rim done. OUCH!!!But I've got it kinda figured out so should speed up from here.



















That's all folks.


----------



## bruce317

htl said:


> *32 Lincoln Kb 2.5 Spent the day making A wheel.*
> 
> The lincoln Kb needs some wheels and not just any wheels but the stock wheels that come with it when new.
> Something like this 1932 Lincoln KB Roadster.
> But I don't know about them white walls. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can it be done well I did it once took me all day hope I can get better on my next 7 tries.
> 
> But first need to catch up on how the cars coming along. [What was done Saturday]
> Now hardly any thing is glued up, there are quite a few part that need gluing then shaping and then add another part glue shape you get the idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok it's time for the rim I didn't even get to the tire but the rim is quite the project in itself!!!
> 
> This is just my first try so be kind.
> I will need to do a lot more clean up to get them usable.
> The oak you see on the out side will be the tire when cut out, should come out to be 2 3/4" when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spent half the day making parts and the other half trying to figure out how to get the spoke pattern right.
> As you can see it's all in the spokes.
> There's probable a hundred ways to do this but this is what I came up with.
> I've made enough parts for 8 tires and rims so maybe by the time I get the first 4 made it will all come together.
> 
> Here's all the tires and rims cut out, and there's some great parts that came from the center of cuts that will make some great tires later on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's all the parts needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I spent the whole day and got one rim done. OUCH!!!But I've got it kinda figured out so should speed up from here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks.


Bruce, 
SUPER KOOL!!!! Please explain how you figured out where to drill holes for spokes. After you tell me how, then I'll steal your idea. Which happens to be a very good one!!!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *32 Lincoln Kb 2.5 Spent the day making A wheel.*
> 
> The lincoln Kb needs some wheels and not just any wheels but the stock wheels that come with it when new.
> Something like this 1932 Lincoln KB Roadster.
> But I don't know about them white walls. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can it be done well I did it once took me all day hope I can get better on my next 7 tries.
> 
> But first need to catch up on how the cars coming along. [What was done Saturday]
> Now hardly any thing is glued up, there are quite a few part that need gluing then shaping and then add another part glue shape you get the idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok it's time for the rim I didn't even get to the tire but the rim is quite the project in itself!!!
> 
> This is just my first try so be kind.
> I will need to do a lot more clean up to get them usable.
> The oak you see on the out side will be the tire when cut out, should come out to be 2 3/4" when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spent half the day making parts and the other half trying to figure out how to get the spoke pattern right.
> As you can see it's all in the spokes.
> There's probable a hundred ways to do this but this is what I came up with.
> I've made enough parts for 8 tires and rims so maybe by the time I get the first 4 made it will all come together.
> 
> Here's all the tires and rims cut out, and there's some great parts that came from the center of cuts that will make some great tires later on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's all the parts needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I spent the whole day and got one rim done. OUCH!!!But I've got it kinda figured out so should speed up from here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks.


A *Train track *would be quicker and easier… but for rimmed t*Y*res.. brilliant.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *32 Lincoln Kb 2.5 Spent the day making A wheel.*
> 
> The lincoln Kb needs some wheels and not just any wheels but the stock wheels that come with it when new.
> Something like this 1932 Lincoln KB Roadster.
> But I don't know about them white walls. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can it be done well I did it once took me all day hope I can get better on my next 7 tries.
> 
> But first need to catch up on how the cars coming along. [What was done Saturday]
> Now hardly any thing is glued up, there are quite a few part that need gluing then shaping and then add another part glue shape you get the idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok it's time for the rim I didn't even get to the tire but the rim is quite the project in itself!!!
> 
> This is just my first try so be kind.
> I will need to do a lot more clean up to get them usable.
> The oak you see on the out side will be the tire when cut out, should come out to be 2 3/4" when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spent half the day making parts and the other half trying to figure out how to get the spoke pattern right.
> As you can see it's all in the spokes.
> There's probable a hundred ways to do this but this is what I came up with.
> I've made enough parts for 8 tires and rims so maybe by the time I get the first 4 made it will all come together.
> 
> Here's all the tires and rims cut out, and there's some great parts that came from the center of cuts that will make some great tires later on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's all the parts needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I spent the whole day and got one rim done. OUCH!!!But I've got it kinda figured out so should speed up from here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks.


Bruce just search the net it's on there and then make it your own.
No need to steal, it's on there to be used and improved.
I've seen this tip for a while but never thought I would get up the nerve to try it.





Even with this help it's still quite an interesting project.
As you see in my pictures I had to do it a little different to get it to work for me.
I could make a how to but lets see if anyone is interested first.

LOL I've got to get it all strait in my head first.
The sad thing is the pictures just don't do it justice


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *32 Lincoln Kb 2.5 Spent the day making A wheel.*
> 
> The lincoln Kb needs some wheels and not just any wheels but the stock wheels that come with it when new.
> Something like this 1932 Lincoln KB Roadster.
> But I don't know about them white walls. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can it be done well I did it once took me all day hope I can get better on my next 7 tries.
> 
> But first need to catch up on how the cars coming along. [What was done Saturday]
> Now hardly any thing is glued up, there are quite a few part that need gluing then shaping and then add another part glue shape you get the idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok it's time for the rim I didn't even get to the tire but the rim is quite the project in itself!!!
> 
> This is just my first try so be kind.
> I will need to do a lot more clean up to get them usable.
> The oak you see on the out side will be the tire when cut out, should come out to be 2 3/4" when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spent half the day making parts and the other half trying to figure out how to get the spoke pattern right.
> As you can see it's all in the spokes.
> There's probable a hundred ways to do this but this is what I came up with.
> I've made enough parts for 8 tires and rims so maybe by the time I get the first 4 made it will all come together.
> 
> Here's all the tires and rims cut out, and there's some great parts that came from the center of cuts that will make some great tires later on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's all the parts needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I spent the whole day and got one rim done. OUCH!!!But I've got it kinda figured out so should speed up from here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks.


I was waiting for this moment.

And I realy like this. Looks much more better then the T&J ones. They are so cute. Thanks Bruce for this nice tire contribution.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *32 Lincoln Kb 2.5 Spent the day making A wheel.*
> 
> The lincoln Kb needs some wheels and not just any wheels but the stock wheels that come with it when new.
> Something like this 1932 Lincoln KB Roadster.
> But I don't know about them white walls. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can it be done well I did it once took me all day hope I can get better on my next 7 tries.
> 
> But first need to catch up on how the cars coming along. [What was done Saturday]
> Now hardly any thing is glued up, there are quite a few part that need gluing then shaping and then add another part glue shape you get the idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok it's time for the rim I didn't even get to the tire but the rim is quite the project in itself!!!
> 
> This is just my first try so be kind.
> I will need to do a lot more clean up to get them usable.
> The oak you see on the out side will be the tire when cut out, should come out to be 2 3/4" when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spent half the day making parts and the other half trying to figure out how to get the spoke pattern right.
> As you can see it's all in the spokes.
> There's probable a hundred ways to do this but this is what I came up with.
> I've made enough parts for 8 tires and rims so maybe by the time I get the first 4 made it will all come together.
> 
> Here's all the tires and rims cut out, and there's some great parts that came from the center of cuts that will make some great tires later on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's all the parts needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I spent the whole day and got one rim done. OUCH!!!But I've got it kinda figured out so should speed up from here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks.


Thanks dutch coming from you it means a lot.
I figured you and Ducky would find this interesting and just the right touch for the car.
Now I need to come up with a simple tread design.
I don't think they had many choices back then, will need to look in to that.
I really need to thin the rims down but I already have the tires cut to fit.
I built these using what hole saw cutter sizes I had on hand so what you see is what I had.
With the SS I can easily sand the disks down to fit in a hole so it's the hole saw sizes that I have to work from that dictates the sizes of the rims.
I guess I could try to cut a perfect hole but it's so much easier to do it with hole saw blades,and they come out uniform every time.
So once I have a size drilled out with the hole saw I can make as many as I need then set the SS up for sanding to that size and again I can make all I need in one sitting.

*Mass Production at it's best.*

And it still took a whole day, of course there was the many times I sat there scratching my head thinking what needed to come next. LOL


----------



## a1Jim

htl said:


> *32 Lincoln Kb 2.5 Spent the day making A wheel.*
> 
> The lincoln Kb needs some wheels and not just any wheels but the stock wheels that come with it when new.
> Something like this 1932 Lincoln KB Roadster.
> But I don't know about them white walls. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can it be done well I did it once took me all day hope I can get better on my next 7 tries.
> 
> But first need to catch up on how the cars coming along. [What was done Saturday]
> Now hardly any thing is glued up, there are quite a few part that need gluing then shaping and then add another part glue shape you get the idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok it's time for the rim I didn't even get to the tire but the rim is quite the project in itself!!!
> 
> This is just my first try so be kind.
> I will need to do a lot more clean up to get them usable.
> The oak you see on the out side will be the tire when cut out, should come out to be 2 3/4" when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spent half the day making parts and the other half trying to figure out how to get the spoke pattern right.
> As you can see it's all in the spokes.
> There's probable a hundred ways to do this but this is what I came up with.
> I've made enough parts for 8 tires and rims so maybe by the time I get the first 4 made it will all come together.
> 
> Here's all the tires and rims cut out, and there's some great parts that came from the center of cuts that will make some great tires later on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's all the parts needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I spent the whole day and got one rim done. OUCH!!!But I've got it kinda figured out so should speed up from here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks.


Very well done on very a comlacated project.


----------



## Dee1

htl said:


> *32 Lincoln Kb 2.5 Spent the day making A wheel.*
> 
> The lincoln Kb needs some wheels and not just any wheels but the stock wheels that come with it when new.
> Something like this 1932 Lincoln KB Roadster.
> But I don't know about them white walls. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can it be done well I did it once took me all day hope I can get better on my next 7 tries.
> 
> But first need to catch up on how the cars coming along. [What was done Saturday]
> Now hardly any thing is glued up, there are quite a few part that need gluing then shaping and then add another part glue shape you get the idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok it's time for the rim I didn't even get to the tire but the rim is quite the project in itself!!!
> 
> This is just my first try so be kind.
> I will need to do a lot more clean up to get them usable.
> The oak you see on the out side will be the tire when cut out, should come out to be 2 3/4" when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spent half the day making parts and the other half trying to figure out how to get the spoke pattern right.
> As you can see it's all in the spokes.
> There's probable a hundred ways to do this but this is what I came up with.
> I've made enough parts for 8 tires and rims so maybe by the time I get the first 4 made it will all come together.
> 
> Here's all the tires and rims cut out, and there's some great parts that came from the center of cuts that will make some great tires later on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's all the parts needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I spent the whole day and got one rim done. OUCH!!!But I've got it kinda figured out so should speed up from here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks.


Wow I am impressed love the spokes well done 
Dee1


----------



## bruce317

htl said:


> *32 Lincoln Kb 2.5 Spent the day making A wheel.*
> 
> The lincoln Kb needs some wheels and not just any wheels but the stock wheels that come with it when new.
> Something like this 1932 Lincoln KB Roadster.
> But I don't know about them white walls. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can it be done well I did it once took me all day hope I can get better on my next 7 tries.
> 
> But first need to catch up on how the cars coming along. [What was done Saturday]
> Now hardly any thing is glued up, there are quite a few part that need gluing then shaping and then add another part glue shape you get the idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok it's time for the rim I didn't even get to the tire but the rim is quite the project in itself!!!
> 
> This is just my first try so be kind.
> I will need to do a lot more clean up to get them usable.
> The oak you see on the out side will be the tire when cut out, should come out to be 2 3/4" when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spent half the day making parts and the other half trying to figure out how to get the spoke pattern right.
> As you can see it's all in the spokes.
> There's probable a hundred ways to do this but this is what I came up with.
> I've made enough parts for 8 tires and rims so maybe by the time I get the first 4 made it will all come together.
> 
> Here's all the tires and rims cut out, and there's some great parts that came from the center of cuts that will make some great tires later on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's all the parts needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I spent the whole day and got one rim done. OUCH!!!But I've got it kinda figured out so should speed up from here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks.


Bruce, 
Thanks for the U Tube. That really helps. You have made the best looking wheels I've seen. Joking about stealing, but would truly love to use your wheels on a up coming build.
Bruce


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *32 Lincoln Kb 2.5 Spent the day making A wheel.*
> 
> The lincoln Kb needs some wheels and not just any wheels but the stock wheels that come with it when new.
> Something like this 1932 Lincoln KB Roadster.
> But I don't know about them white walls. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can it be done well I did it once took me all day hope I can get better on my next 7 tries.
> 
> But first need to catch up on how the cars coming along. [What was done Saturday]
> Now hardly any thing is glued up, there are quite a few part that need gluing then shaping and then add another part glue shape you get the idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok it's time for the rim I didn't even get to the tire but the rim is quite the project in itself!!!
> 
> This is just my first try so be kind.
> I will need to do a lot more clean up to get them usable.
> The oak you see on the out side will be the tire when cut out, should come out to be 2 3/4" when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spent half the day making parts and the other half trying to figure out how to get the spoke pattern right.
> As you can see it's all in the spokes.
> There's probable a hundred ways to do this but this is what I came up with.
> I've made enough parts for 8 tires and rims so maybe by the time I get the first 4 made it will all come together.
> 
> Here's all the tires and rims cut out, and there's some great parts that came from the center of cuts that will make some great tires later on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's all the parts needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I spent the whole day and got one rim done. OUCH!!!But I've got it kinda figured out so should speed up from here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks.


Bruce I knew what you meant I've use those words my self on some of Dutchys projects.
Make them yours by adding something new and interesting That I can steal!!!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *32 Lincoln Kb 2.5 Spent the day making A wheel.*
> 
> The lincoln Kb needs some wheels and not just any wheels but the stock wheels that come with it when new.
> Something like this 1932 Lincoln KB Roadster.
> But I don't know about them white walls. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can it be done well I did it once took me all day hope I can get better on my next 7 tries.
> 
> But first need to catch up on how the cars coming along. [What was done Saturday]
> Now hardly any thing is glued up, there are quite a few part that need gluing then shaping and then add another part glue shape you get the idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok it's time for the rim I didn't even get to the tire but the rim is quite the project in itself!!!
> 
> This is just my first try so be kind.
> I will need to do a lot more clean up to get them usable.
> The oak you see on the out side will be the tire when cut out, should come out to be 2 3/4" when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spent half the day making parts and the other half trying to figure out how to get the spoke pattern right.
> As you can see it's all in the spokes.
> There's probable a hundred ways to do this but this is what I came up with.
> I've made enough parts for 8 tires and rims so maybe by the time I get the first 4 made it will all come together.
> 
> Here's all the tires and rims cut out, and there's some great parts that came from the center of cuts that will make some great tires later on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's all the parts needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I spent the whole day and got one rim done. OUCH!!!But I've got it kinda figured out so should speed up from here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks.


Hardly anything is new these days, we just build on other people ideas, that's what so great about a site like this you find so many great ideas that are new to you and me, different ways of doing things.
Back when I got into wood working back in the 1970s there were a few books and mags out to help the wood worker.
Years ago it used to make me mad in a way, I would work hard to figure some thing out in wood working and show me helper or a friend and boom they were doing it no problem.

It's kind a like this wheel video, to figure it out our selves it can be done but would take a lot of work.
We see the video and boom we can do it we now have the in sight needed to get er done.
It's still not easy but we have what we need the understanding behind the project.
Just my $.02


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *32 Lincoln Kb 2.5 Spent the day making A wheel.*
> 
> The lincoln Kb needs some wheels and not just any wheels but the stock wheels that come with it when new.
> Something like this 1932 Lincoln KB Roadster.
> But I don't know about them white walls. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can it be done well I did it once took me all day hope I can get better on my next 7 tries.
> 
> But first need to catch up on how the cars coming along. [What was done Saturday]
> Now hardly any thing is glued up, there are quite a few part that need gluing then shaping and then add another part glue shape you get the idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok it's time for the rim I didn't even get to the tire but the rim is quite the project in itself!!!
> 
> This is just my first try so be kind.
> I will need to do a lot more clean up to get them usable.
> The oak you see on the out side will be the tire when cut out, should come out to be 2 3/4" when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spent half the day making parts and the other half trying to figure out how to get the spoke pattern right.
> As you can see it's all in the spokes.
> There's probable a hundred ways to do this but this is what I came up with.
> I've made enough parts for 8 tires and rims so maybe by the time I get the first 4 made it will all come together.
> 
> Here's all the tires and rims cut out, and there's some great parts that came from the center of cuts that will make some great tires later on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's all the parts needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I spent the whole day and got one rim done. OUCH!!!But I've got it kinda figured out so should speed up from here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks.


First Class Wheels & Tyres for one beautiful vehicle… They'll set the model off a treat…very well done Bruce!!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *32 Lincoln Kb 2.5 Spent the day making A wheel.*
> 
> The lincoln Kb needs some wheels and not just any wheels but the stock wheels that come with it when new.
> Something like this 1932 Lincoln KB Roadster.
> But I don't know about them white walls. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can it be done well I did it once took me all day hope I can get better on my next 7 tries.
> 
> But first need to catch up on how the cars coming along. [What was done Saturday]
> Now hardly any thing is glued up, there are quite a few part that need gluing then shaping and then add another part glue shape you get the idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok it's time for the rim I didn't even get to the tire but the rim is quite the project in itself!!!
> 
> This is just my first try so be kind.
> I will need to do a lot more clean up to get them usable.
> The oak you see on the out side will be the tire when cut out, should come out to be 2 3/4" when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spent half the day making parts and the other half trying to figure out how to get the spoke pattern right.
> As you can see it's all in the spokes.
> There's probable a hundred ways to do this but this is what I came up with.
> I've made enough parts for 8 tires and rims so maybe by the time I get the first 4 made it will all come together.
> 
> Here's all the tires and rims cut out, and there's some great parts that came from the center of cuts that will make some great tires later on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's all the parts needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I spent the whole day and got one rim done. OUCH!!!But I've got it kinda figured out so should speed up from here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks.


Ducky is impressed!

However,



> ... Now I need to come up with a simple tread design…


Are you contemplating a new fangle-dangled tread design for the *train TRACKs*???? Is that your delay?


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *32 Lincoln Kb 2.5 Spent the day making A wheel.*
> 
> The lincoln Kb needs some wheels and not just any wheels but the stock wheels that come with it when new.
> Something like this 1932 Lincoln KB Roadster.
> But I don't know about them white walls. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can it be done well I did it once took me all day hope I can get better on my next 7 tries.
> 
> But first need to catch up on how the cars coming along. [What was done Saturday]
> Now hardly any thing is glued up, there are quite a few part that need gluing then shaping and then add another part glue shape you get the idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok it's time for the rim I didn't even get to the tire but the rim is quite the project in itself!!!
> 
> This is just my first try so be kind.
> I will need to do a lot more clean up to get them usable.
> The oak you see on the out side will be the tire when cut out, should come out to be 2 3/4" when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spent half the day making parts and the other half trying to figure out how to get the spoke pattern right.
> As you can see it's all in the spokes.
> There's probable a hundred ways to do this but this is what I came up with.
> I've made enough parts for 8 tires and rims so maybe by the time I get the first 4 made it will all come together.
> 
> Here's all the tires and rims cut out, and there's some great parts that came from the center of cuts that will make some great tires later on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's all the parts needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I spent the whole day and got one rim done. OUCH!!!But I've got it kinda figured out so should speed up from here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks.





> ...the project. Just my $.02…


Keep up these great posts and I'll raise your salary to $.03 and not tell your wife about it so you can spend it all on yourself .


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *32 Lincoln Kb 2.5 Spent the day making A wheel.*
> 
> The lincoln Kb needs some wheels and not just any wheels but the stock wheels that come with it when new.
> Something like this 1932 Lincoln KB Roadster.
> But I don't know about them white walls. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can it be done well I did it once took me all day hope I can get better on my next 7 tries.
> 
> But first need to catch up on how the cars coming along. [What was done Saturday]
> Now hardly any thing is glued up, there are quite a few part that need gluing then shaping and then add another part glue shape you get the idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok it's time for the rim I didn't even get to the tire but the rim is quite the project in itself!!!
> 
> This is just my first try so be kind.
> I will need to do a lot more clean up to get them usable.
> The oak you see on the out side will be the tire when cut out, should come out to be 2 3/4" when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spent half the day making parts and the other half trying to figure out how to get the spoke pattern right.
> As you can see it's all in the spokes.
> There's probable a hundred ways to do this but this is what I came up with.
> I've made enough parts for 8 tires and rims so maybe by the time I get the first 4 made it will all come together.
> 
> Here's all the tires and rims cut out, and there's some great parts that came from the center of cuts that will make some great tires later on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's all the parts needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I spent the whole day and got one rim done. OUCH!!!But I've got it kinda figured out so should speed up from here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks.


Accidentally duplicated the previous post and couldn't delete this one.

Lost for words… unlike me. No there was no cussing or profanities or dumb statements… unlike me.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *32 Lincoln Kb 2.5 Spent the day making A wheel.*
> 
> The lincoln Kb needs some wheels and not just any wheels but the stock wheels that come with it when new.
> Something like this 1932 Lincoln KB Roadster.
> But I don't know about them white walls. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can it be done well I did it once took me all day hope I can get better on my next 7 tries.
> 
> But first need to catch up on how the cars coming along. [What was done Saturday]
> Now hardly any thing is glued up, there are quite a few part that need gluing then shaping and then add another part glue shape you get the idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok it's time for the rim I didn't even get to the tire but the rim is quite the project in itself!!!
> 
> This is just my first try so be kind.
> I will need to do a lot more clean up to get them usable.
> The oak you see on the out side will be the tire when cut out, should come out to be 2 3/4" when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spent half the day making parts and the other half trying to figure out how to get the spoke pattern right.
> As you can see it's all in the spokes.
> There's probable a hundred ways to do this but this is what I came up with.
> I've made enough parts for 8 tires and rims so maybe by the time I get the first 4 made it will all come together.
> 
> Here's all the tires and rims cut out, and there's some great parts that came from the center of cuts that will make some great tires later on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's all the parts needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I spent the whole day and got one rim done. OUCH!!!But I've got it kinda figured out so should speed up from here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks.


LOL I tried to duplicate like you did but put it on the wrong page. LOL
Jumping around like this is getting me dizzy.


----------



## htl

*Making a spoked wheel*

Here's a quick *how to* for making spoked wheels.









Please watch this video it's where I got my ideas on how to do it.





I just used the windows Snapping tool and copied his plan but it's at an angle so not right.
If I was to do this again I would draw up a better pattern.

As always changes are made to suit the tools and ability.

First I cut out all the parts using my holes saw set.
My wheels are for a 2 3/4 wheel and made adjustments to his plans to work with my hole saw set.
If I was going to start making a bunch a wheels it would pay to get an adjustable hole saw cutter.
I made 8 wheels, I only needed 4 for the car and two for the spare tires.
So had two for experimenting.
The first turned out ok, by the forth I was getting it figured out.
All are usable but the last 4 are uniform and consistent.










Like the video I glued down the rings, I used super glue so no white glue will show up later.
I also used thicker paper to glue them to didn't want the parts moving as I drilled them.
Here I'm marking for the drill holes, will be cutting off the out side bottom of the pattern.









I clamped a block so I would have something to hold the part while drilling.
I used tooth picks for spokes and used 3 different size drill bits to keep control of the wandering of the bit.
A very small bit just to get the hole started, then switched over to a little bigger and stronger bit to drill through and set the angle, then used the right size to finish it off.

I got this drill set at HF and it's worked really great on wood doesn't seem to wander like some bits do.










I would drill all the holes in one direction, glue in the tooth picks then drill in the other direction and glue them up.
I would drill the first set just below the* center line *then with the next set drill just above the tooth pick, this kept them in line.
The *center line I'm talking* about here is on the center or axle part.
For the drilling of the out side, drill first set of holes[one direction] glue in tooth picks for that set then drill right over the hole of the first set of glued in part. [This keeps every thing in line]










I cut off the tips of the tooth picks so all would be the same thickness.









Before I would glue in a part I would put it in and mark it to know where to put glue, the tip and just before the mark.
Note If your planing on staining your tires and rims, you better be careful where you glue the spokes or they'll come out white where the glue seals the wood.










Step by step pictures.
The bottom left picture shows the tooth picks all pointing in one direction [first drilling]
The second shows them going in other direction [second drilling]
The third shows then up the middle [third drilling.
If you could see it, the holes in the center axle part would all be one on top of the other.
Bottom would be first drilling then the second then the last all in line with each other.



























I know it's hard to see but the rim with the tire was the first and looks alright but with the other rim the spokes are on top of each [in line] other more consistently and turned out much better.









Well that's two 1/2 days work and still no tires, but happy with the out come so far.
Now if I can just come up with a simple tread pattern with out buggering all this work.

I know this is a lot of info but read it 10 or more times and you'll start to get it.
I must have watch the video 10 times then took snap shots of the different points to get it in my head, but till you start playing with it that's when it all falls into place.
That's all folks.


----------



## bruce317

htl said:


> *Making a spoked wheel*
> 
> Here's a quick *how to* for making spoked wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please watch this video it's where I got my ideas on how to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just used the windows Snapping tool and copied his plan but it's at an angle so not right.
> If I was to do this again I would draw up a better pattern.
> 
> As always changes are made to suit the tools and ability.
> 
> First I cut out all the parts using my holes saw set.
> My wheels are for a 2 3/4 wheel and made adjustments to his plans to work with my hole saw set.
> If I was going to start making a bunch a wheels it would pay to get an adjustable hole saw cutter.
> I made 8 wheels, I only needed 4 for the car and two for the spare tires.
> So had two for experimenting.
> The first turned out ok, by the forth I was getting it figured out.
> All are usable but the last 4 are uniform and consistent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like the video I glued down the rings, I used super glue so no white glue will show up later.
> I also used thicker paper to glue them to didn't want the parts moving as I drilled them.
> Here I'm marking for the drill holes, will be cutting off the out side bottom of the pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I clamped a block so I would have something to hold the part while drilling.
> I used tooth picks for spokes and used 3 different size drill bits to keep control of the wandering of the bit.
> A very small bit just to get the hole started, then switched over to a little bigger and stronger bit to drill through and set the angle, then used the right size to finish it off.
> 
> I got this drill set at HF and it's worked really great on wood doesn't seem to wander like some bits do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would drill all the holes in one direction, glue in the tooth picks then drill in the other direction and glue them up.
> I would drill the first set just below the* center line *then with the next set drill just above the tooth pick, this kept them in line.
> The *center line I'm talking* about here is on the center or axle part.
> For the drilling of the out side, drill first set of holes[one direction] glue in tooth picks for that set then drill right over the hole of the first set of glued in part. [This keeps every thing in line]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut off the tips of the tooth picks so all would be the same thickness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I would glue in a part I would put it in and mark it to know where to put glue, the tip and just before the mark.
> Note If your planing on staining your tires and rims, you better be careful where you glue the spokes or they'll come out white where the glue seals the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Step by step pictures.
> The bottom left picture shows the tooth picks all pointing in one direction [first drilling]
> The second shows them going in other direction [second drilling]
> The third shows then up the middle [third drilling.
> If you could see it, the holes in the center axle part would all be one on top of the other.
> Bottom would be first drilling then the second then the last all in line with each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it's hard to see but the rim with the tire was the first and looks alright but with the other rim the spokes are on top of each [in line] other more consistently and turned out much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that's two 1/2 days work and still no tires, but happy with the out come so far.
> Now if I can just come up with a simple tread pattern with out buggering all this work.
> 
> I know this is a lot of info but read it 10 or more times and you'll start to get it.
> I must have watch the video 10 times then took snap shots of the different points to get it in my head, but till you start playing with it that's when it all falls into place.
> That's all folks.


Great liking wheels. With wonderful information. Thank you!


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Making a spoked wheel*
> 
> Here's a quick *how to* for making spoked wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please watch this video it's where I got my ideas on how to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just used the windows Snapping tool and copied his plan but it's at an angle so not right.
> If I was to do this again I would draw up a better pattern.
> 
> As always changes are made to suit the tools and ability.
> 
> First I cut out all the parts using my holes saw set.
> My wheels are for a 2 3/4 wheel and made adjustments to his plans to work with my hole saw set.
> If I was going to start making a bunch a wheels it would pay to get an adjustable hole saw cutter.
> I made 8 wheels, I only needed 4 for the car and two for the spare tires.
> So had two for experimenting.
> The first turned out ok, by the forth I was getting it figured out.
> All are usable but the last 4 are uniform and consistent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like the video I glued down the rings, I used super glue so no white glue will show up later.
> I also used thicker paper to glue them to didn't want the parts moving as I drilled them.
> Here I'm marking for the drill holes, will be cutting off the out side bottom of the pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I clamped a block so I would have something to hold the part while drilling.
> I used tooth picks for spokes and used 3 different size drill bits to keep control of the wandering of the bit.
> A very small bit just to get the hole started, then switched over to a little bigger and stronger bit to drill through and set the angle, then used the right size to finish it off.
> 
> I got this drill set at HF and it's worked really great on wood doesn't seem to wander like some bits do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would drill all the holes in one direction, glue in the tooth picks then drill in the other direction and glue them up.
> I would drill the first set just below the* center line *then with the next set drill just above the tooth pick, this kept them in line.
> The *center line I'm talking* about here is on the center or axle part.
> For the drilling of the out side, drill first set of holes[one direction] glue in tooth picks for that set then drill right over the hole of the first set of glued in part. [This keeps every thing in line]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut off the tips of the tooth picks so all would be the same thickness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I would glue in a part I would put it in and mark it to know where to put glue, the tip and just before the mark.
> Note If your planing on staining your tires and rims, you better be careful where you glue the spokes or they'll come out white where the glue seals the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Step by step pictures.
> The bottom left picture shows the tooth picks all pointing in one direction [first drilling]
> The second shows them going in other direction [second drilling]
> The third shows then up the middle [third drilling.
> If you could see it, the holes in the center axle part would all be one on top of the other.
> Bottom would be first drilling then the second then the last all in line with each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it's hard to see but the rim with the tire was the first and looks alright but with the other rim the spokes are on top of each [in line] other more consistently and turned out much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that's two 1/2 days work and still no tires, but happy with the out come so far.
> Now if I can just come up with a simple tread pattern with out buggering all this work.
> 
> I know this is a lot of info but read it 10 or more times and you'll start to get it.
> I must have watch the video 10 times then took snap shots of the different points to get it in my head, but till you start playing with it that's when it all falls into place.
> That's all folks.


Also this one is put into my favorites map. Now I'm waiting for the "colering" how to


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Making a spoked wheel*
> 
> Here's a quick *how to* for making spoked wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please watch this video it's where I got my ideas on how to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just used the windows Snapping tool and copied his plan but it's at an angle so not right.
> If I was to do this again I would draw up a better pattern.
> 
> As always changes are made to suit the tools and ability.
> 
> First I cut out all the parts using my holes saw set.
> My wheels are for a 2 3/4 wheel and made adjustments to his plans to work with my hole saw set.
> If I was going to start making a bunch a wheels it would pay to get an adjustable hole saw cutter.
> I made 8 wheels, I only needed 4 for the car and two for the spare tires.
> So had two for experimenting.
> The first turned out ok, by the forth I was getting it figured out.
> All are usable but the last 4 are uniform and consistent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like the video I glued down the rings, I used super glue so no white glue will show up later.
> I also used thicker paper to glue them to didn't want the parts moving as I drilled them.
> Here I'm marking for the drill holes, will be cutting off the out side bottom of the pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I clamped a block so I would have something to hold the part while drilling.
> I used tooth picks for spokes and used 3 different size drill bits to keep control of the wandering of the bit.
> A very small bit just to get the hole started, then switched over to a little bigger and stronger bit to drill through and set the angle, then used the right size to finish it off.
> 
> I got this drill set at HF and it's worked really great on wood doesn't seem to wander like some bits do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would drill all the holes in one direction, glue in the tooth picks then drill in the other direction and glue them up.
> I would drill the first set just below the* center line *then with the next set drill just above the tooth pick, this kept them in line.
> The *center line I'm talking* about here is on the center or axle part.
> For the drilling of the out side, drill first set of holes[one direction] glue in tooth picks for that set then drill right over the hole of the first set of glued in part. [This keeps every thing in line]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut off the tips of the tooth picks so all would be the same thickness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I would glue in a part I would put it in and mark it to know where to put glue, the tip and just before the mark.
> Note If your planing on staining your tires and rims, you better be careful where you glue the spokes or they'll come out white where the glue seals the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Step by step pictures.
> The bottom left picture shows the tooth picks all pointing in one direction [first drilling]
> The second shows them going in other direction [second drilling]
> The third shows then up the middle [third drilling.
> If you could see it, the holes in the center axle part would all be one on top of the other.
> Bottom would be first drilling then the second then the last all in line with each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it's hard to see but the rim with the tire was the first and looks alright but with the other rim the spokes are on top of each [in line] other more consistently and turned out much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that's two 1/2 days work and still no tires, but happy with the out come so far.
> Now if I can just come up with a simple tread pattern with out buggering all this work.
> 
> I know this is a lot of info but read it 10 or more times and you'll start to get it.
> I must have watch the video 10 times then took snap shots of the different points to get it in my head, but till you start playing with it that's when it all falls into place.
> That's all folks.


Great tutorial. You should make a video and sell it to T&J. It's certainly a method I will file away in my wheel making bag of goodies.

Oh yeh, you don't get off that easy….


> ... and still no tires, ...


Just put it on the same queue as your railway TRACKS…..

I took a copy of this article for keepsake before idiotic people, like me, start making irreverent (and irrelevant) statements and finish up infecting your good work.


----------



## Redoak49

htl said:


> *Making a spoked wheel*
> 
> Here's a quick *how to* for making spoked wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please watch this video it's where I got my ideas on how to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just used the windows Snapping tool and copied his plan but it's at an angle so not right.
> If I was to do this again I would draw up a better pattern.
> 
> As always changes are made to suit the tools and ability.
> 
> First I cut out all the parts using my holes saw set.
> My wheels are for a 2 3/4 wheel and made adjustments to his plans to work with my hole saw set.
> If I was going to start making a bunch a wheels it would pay to get an adjustable hole saw cutter.
> I made 8 wheels, I only needed 4 for the car and two for the spare tires.
> So had two for experimenting.
> The first turned out ok, by the forth I was getting it figured out.
> All are usable but the last 4 are uniform and consistent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like the video I glued down the rings, I used super glue so no white glue will show up later.
> I also used thicker paper to glue them to didn't want the parts moving as I drilled them.
> Here I'm marking for the drill holes, will be cutting off the out side bottom of the pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I clamped a block so I would have something to hold the part while drilling.
> I used tooth picks for spokes and used 3 different size drill bits to keep control of the wandering of the bit.
> A very small bit just to get the hole started, then switched over to a little bigger and stronger bit to drill through and set the angle, then used the right size to finish it off.
> 
> I got this drill set at HF and it's worked really great on wood doesn't seem to wander like some bits do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would drill all the holes in one direction, glue in the tooth picks then drill in the other direction and glue them up.
> I would drill the first set just below the* center line *then with the next set drill just above the tooth pick, this kept them in line.
> The *center line I'm talking* about here is on the center or axle part.
> For the drilling of the out side, drill first set of holes[one direction] glue in tooth picks for that set then drill right over the hole of the first set of glued in part. [This keeps every thing in line]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut off the tips of the tooth picks so all would be the same thickness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I would glue in a part I would put it in and mark it to know where to put glue, the tip and just before the mark.
> Note If your planing on staining your tires and rims, you better be careful where you glue the spokes or they'll come out white where the glue seals the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Step by step pictures.
> The bottom left picture shows the tooth picks all pointing in one direction [first drilling]
> The second shows them going in other direction [second drilling]
> The third shows then up the middle [third drilling.
> If you could see it, the holes in the center axle part would all be one on top of the other.
> Bottom would be first drilling then the second then the last all in line with each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it's hard to see but the rim with the tire was the first and looks alright but with the other rim the spokes are on top of each [in line] other more consistently and turned out much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that's two 1/2 days work and still no tires, but happy with the out come so far.
> Now if I can just come up with a simple tread pattern with out buggering all this work.
> 
> I know this is a lot of info but read it 10 or more times and you'll start to get it.
> I must have watch the video 10 times then took snap shots of the different points to get it in my head, but till you start playing with it that's when it all falls into place.
> That's all folks.


Very well done and excellent wheels


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Making a spoked wheel*
> 
> Here's a quick *how to* for making spoked wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please watch this video it's where I got my ideas on how to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just used the windows Snapping tool and copied his plan but it's at an angle so not right.
> If I was to do this again I would draw up a better pattern.
> 
> As always changes are made to suit the tools and ability.
> 
> First I cut out all the parts using my holes saw set.
> My wheels are for a 2 3/4 wheel and made adjustments to his plans to work with my hole saw set.
> If I was going to start making a bunch a wheels it would pay to get an adjustable hole saw cutter.
> I made 8 wheels, I only needed 4 for the car and two for the spare tires.
> So had two for experimenting.
> The first turned out ok, by the forth I was getting it figured out.
> All are usable but the last 4 are uniform and consistent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like the video I glued down the rings, I used super glue so no white glue will show up later.
> I also used thicker paper to glue them to didn't want the parts moving as I drilled them.
> Here I'm marking for the drill holes, will be cutting off the out side bottom of the pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I clamped a block so I would have something to hold the part while drilling.
> I used tooth picks for spokes and used 3 different size drill bits to keep control of the wandering of the bit.
> A very small bit just to get the hole started, then switched over to a little bigger and stronger bit to drill through and set the angle, then used the right size to finish it off.
> 
> I got this drill set at HF and it's worked really great on wood doesn't seem to wander like some bits do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would drill all the holes in one direction, glue in the tooth picks then drill in the other direction and glue them up.
> I would drill the first set just below the* center line *then with the next set drill just above the tooth pick, this kept them in line.
> The *center line I'm talking* about here is on the center or axle part.
> For the drilling of the out side, drill first set of holes[one direction] glue in tooth picks for that set then drill right over the hole of the first set of glued in part. [This keeps every thing in line]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut off the tips of the tooth picks so all would be the same thickness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I would glue in a part I would put it in and mark it to know where to put glue, the tip and just before the mark.
> Note If your planing on staining your tires and rims, you better be careful where you glue the spokes or they'll come out white where the glue seals the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Step by step pictures.
> The bottom left picture shows the tooth picks all pointing in one direction [first drilling]
> The second shows them going in other direction [second drilling]
> The third shows then up the middle [third drilling.
> If you could see it, the holes in the center axle part would all be one on top of the other.
> Bottom would be first drilling then the second then the last all in line with each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it's hard to see but the rim with the tire was the first and looks alright but with the other rim the spokes are on top of each [in line] other more consistently and turned out much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that's two 1/2 days work and still no tires, but happy with the out come so far.
> Now if I can just come up with a simple tread pattern with out buggering all this work.
> 
> I know this is a lot of info but read it 10 or more times and you'll start to get it.
> I must have watch the video 10 times then took snap shots of the different points to get it in my head, but till you start playing with it that's when it all falls into place.
> That's all folks.


Ducky it's never ever happened to me.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Making a spoked wheel*
> 
> Here's a quick *how to* for making spoked wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please watch this video it's where I got my ideas on how to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just used the windows Snapping tool and copied his plan but it's at an angle so not right.
> If I was to do this again I would draw up a better pattern.
> 
> As always changes are made to suit the tools and ability.
> 
> First I cut out all the parts using my holes saw set.
> My wheels are for a 2 3/4 wheel and made adjustments to his plans to work with my hole saw set.
> If I was going to start making a bunch a wheels it would pay to get an adjustable hole saw cutter.
> I made 8 wheels, I only needed 4 for the car and two for the spare tires.
> So had two for experimenting.
> The first turned out ok, by the forth I was getting it figured out.
> All are usable but the last 4 are uniform and consistent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like the video I glued down the rings, I used super glue so no white glue will show up later.
> I also used thicker paper to glue them to didn't want the parts moving as I drilled them.
> Here I'm marking for the drill holes, will be cutting off the out side bottom of the pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I clamped a block so I would have something to hold the part while drilling.
> I used tooth picks for spokes and used 3 different size drill bits to keep control of the wandering of the bit.
> A very small bit just to get the hole started, then switched over to a little bigger and stronger bit to drill through and set the angle, then used the right size to finish it off.
> 
> I got this drill set at HF and it's worked really great on wood doesn't seem to wander like some bits do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would drill all the holes in one direction, glue in the tooth picks then drill in the other direction and glue them up.
> I would drill the first set just below the* center line *then with the next set drill just above the tooth pick, this kept them in line.
> The *center line I'm talking* about here is on the center or axle part.
> For the drilling of the out side, drill first set of holes[one direction] glue in tooth picks for that set then drill right over the hole of the first set of glued in part. [This keeps every thing in line]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut off the tips of the tooth picks so all would be the same thickness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I would glue in a part I would put it in and mark it to know where to put glue, the tip and just before the mark.
> Note If your planing on staining your tires and rims, you better be careful where you glue the spokes or they'll come out white where the glue seals the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Step by step pictures.
> The bottom left picture shows the tooth picks all pointing in one direction [first drilling]
> The second shows them going in other direction [second drilling]
> The third shows then up the middle [third drilling.
> If you could see it, the holes in the center axle part would all be one on top of the other.
> Bottom would be first drilling then the second then the last all in line with each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it's hard to see but the rim with the tire was the first and looks alright but with the other rim the spokes are on top of each [in line] other more consistently and turned out much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that's two 1/2 days work and still no tires, but happy with the out come so far.
> Now if I can just come up with a simple tread pattern with out buggering all this work.
> 
> I know this is a lot of info but read it 10 or more times and you'll start to get it.
> I must have watch the video 10 times then took snap shots of the different points to get it in my head, but till you start playing with it that's when it all falls into place.
> That's all folks.


Ducky it's never ever happened to me.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Making a spoked wheel*
> 
> Here's a quick *how to* for making spoked wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please watch this video it's where I got my ideas on how to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just used the windows Snapping tool and copied his plan but it's at an angle so not right.
> If I was to do this again I would draw up a better pattern.
> 
> As always changes are made to suit the tools and ability.
> 
> First I cut out all the parts using my holes saw set.
> My wheels are for a 2 3/4 wheel and made adjustments to his plans to work with my hole saw set.
> If I was going to start making a bunch a wheels it would pay to get an adjustable hole saw cutter.
> I made 8 wheels, I only needed 4 for the car and two for the spare tires.
> So had two for experimenting.
> The first turned out ok, by the forth I was getting it figured out.
> All are usable but the last 4 are uniform and consistent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like the video I glued down the rings, I used super glue so no white glue will show up later.
> I also used thicker paper to glue them to didn't want the parts moving as I drilled them.
> Here I'm marking for the drill holes, will be cutting off the out side bottom of the pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I clamped a block so I would have something to hold the part while drilling.
> I used tooth picks for spokes and used 3 different size drill bits to keep control of the wandering of the bit.
> A very small bit just to get the hole started, then switched over to a little bigger and stronger bit to drill through and set the angle, then used the right size to finish it off.
> 
> I got this drill set at HF and it's worked really great on wood doesn't seem to wander like some bits do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would drill all the holes in one direction, glue in the tooth picks then drill in the other direction and glue them up.
> I would drill the first set just below the* center line *then with the next set drill just above the tooth pick, this kept them in line.
> The *center line I'm talking* about here is on the center or axle part.
> For the drilling of the out side, drill first set of holes[one direction] glue in tooth picks for that set then drill right over the hole of the first set of glued in part. [This keeps every thing in line]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut off the tips of the tooth picks so all would be the same thickness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I would glue in a part I would put it in and mark it to know where to put glue, the tip and just before the mark.
> Note If your planing on staining your tires and rims, you better be careful where you glue the spokes or they'll come out white where the glue seals the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Step by step pictures.
> The bottom left picture shows the tooth picks all pointing in one direction [first drilling]
> The second shows them going in other direction [second drilling]
> The third shows then up the middle [third drilling.
> If you could see it, the holes in the center axle part would all be one on top of the other.
> Bottom would be first drilling then the second then the last all in line with each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it's hard to see but the rim with the tire was the first and looks alright but with the other rim the spokes are on top of each [in line] other more consistently and turned out much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that's two 1/2 days work and still no tires, but happy with the out come so far.
> Now if I can just come up with a simple tread pattern with out buggering all this work.
> 
> I know this is a lot of info but read it 10 or more times and you'll start to get it.
> I must have watch the video 10 times then took snap shots of the different points to get it in my head, but till you start playing with it that's when it all falls into place.
> That's all folks.





> Also this one is put into my favorites map. Now I m waiting for the "colering" how to
> 
> - Dutchy


Now's when I start getting nervous, I've got it this far now afraid I'll bugger it up.

Don't need to worry ain't no white walls touching my tires.
Will be playing with some black on the two extras to see what can be done but may wait till I get the car a little farther along before committing myself to any colors[black].


----------



## JulianLech

htl said:


> *Making a spoked wheel*
> 
> Here's a quick *how to* for making spoked wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please watch this video it's where I got my ideas on how to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just used the windows Snapping tool and copied his plan but it's at an angle so not right.
> If I was to do this again I would draw up a better pattern.
> 
> As always changes are made to suit the tools and ability.
> 
> First I cut out all the parts using my holes saw set.
> My wheels are for a 2 3/4 wheel and made adjustments to his plans to work with my hole saw set.
> If I was going to start making a bunch a wheels it would pay to get an adjustable hole saw cutter.
> I made 8 wheels, I only needed 4 for the car and two for the spare tires.
> So had two for experimenting.
> The first turned out ok, by the forth I was getting it figured out.
> All are usable but the last 4 are uniform and consistent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like the video I glued down the rings, I used super glue so no white glue will show up later.
> I also used thicker paper to glue them to didn't want the parts moving as I drilled them.
> Here I'm marking for the drill holes, will be cutting off the out side bottom of the pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I clamped a block so I would have something to hold the part while drilling.
> I used tooth picks for spokes and used 3 different size drill bits to keep control of the wandering of the bit.
> A very small bit just to get the hole started, then switched over to a little bigger and stronger bit to drill through and set the angle, then used the right size to finish it off.
> 
> I got this drill set at HF and it's worked really great on wood doesn't seem to wander like some bits do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would drill all the holes in one direction, glue in the tooth picks then drill in the other direction and glue them up.
> I would drill the first set just below the* center line *then with the next set drill just above the tooth pick, this kept them in line.
> The *center line I'm talking* about here is on the center or axle part.
> For the drilling of the out side, drill first set of holes[one direction] glue in tooth picks for that set then drill right over the hole of the first set of glued in part. [This keeps every thing in line]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut off the tips of the tooth picks so all would be the same thickness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I would glue in a part I would put it in and mark it to know where to put glue, the tip and just before the mark.
> Note If your planing on staining your tires and rims, you better be careful where you glue the spokes or they'll come out white where the glue seals the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Step by step pictures.
> The bottom left picture shows the tooth picks all pointing in one direction [first drilling]
> The second shows them going in other direction [second drilling]
> The third shows then up the middle [third drilling.
> If you could see it, the holes in the center axle part would all be one on top of the other.
> Bottom would be first drilling then the second then the last all in line with each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it's hard to see but the rim with the tire was the first and looks alright but with the other rim the spokes are on top of each [in line] other more consistently and turned out much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that's two 1/2 days work and still no tires, but happy with the out come so far.
> Now if I can just come up with a simple tread pattern with out buggering all this work.
> 
> I know this is a lot of info but read it 10 or more times and you'll start to get it.
> I must have watch the video 10 times then took snap shots of the different points to get it in my head, but till you start playing with it that's when it all falls into place.
> That's all folks.


Very cool. Fantastic detail. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Making a spoked wheel*
> 
> Here's a quick *how to* for making spoked wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please watch this video it's where I got my ideas on how to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just used the windows Snapping tool and copied his plan but it's at an angle so not right.
> If I was to do this again I would draw up a better pattern.
> 
> As always changes are made to suit the tools and ability.
> 
> First I cut out all the parts using my holes saw set.
> My wheels are for a 2 3/4 wheel and made adjustments to his plans to work with my hole saw set.
> If I was going to start making a bunch a wheels it would pay to get an adjustable hole saw cutter.
> I made 8 wheels, I only needed 4 for the car and two for the spare tires.
> So had two for experimenting.
> The first turned out ok, by the forth I was getting it figured out.
> All are usable but the last 4 are uniform and consistent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like the video I glued down the rings, I used super glue so no white glue will show up later.
> I also used thicker paper to glue them to didn't want the parts moving as I drilled them.
> Here I'm marking for the drill holes, will be cutting off the out side bottom of the pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I clamped a block so I would have something to hold the part while drilling.
> I used tooth picks for spokes and used 3 different size drill bits to keep control of the wandering of the bit.
> A very small bit just to get the hole started, then switched over to a little bigger and stronger bit to drill through and set the angle, then used the right size to finish it off.
> 
> I got this drill set at HF and it's worked really great on wood doesn't seem to wander like some bits do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would drill all the holes in one direction, glue in the tooth picks then drill in the other direction and glue them up.
> I would drill the first set just below the* center line *then with the next set drill just above the tooth pick, this kept them in line.
> The *center line I'm talking* about here is on the center or axle part.
> For the drilling of the out side, drill first set of holes[one direction] glue in tooth picks for that set then drill right over the hole of the first set of glued in part. [This keeps every thing in line]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut off the tips of the tooth picks so all would be the same thickness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I would glue in a part I would put it in and mark it to know where to put glue, the tip and just before the mark.
> Note If your planing on staining your tires and rims, you better be careful where you glue the spokes or they'll come out white where the glue seals the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Step by step pictures.
> The bottom left picture shows the tooth picks all pointing in one direction [first drilling]
> The second shows them going in other direction [second drilling]
> The third shows then up the middle [third drilling.
> If you could see it, the holes in the center axle part would all be one on top of the other.
> Bottom would be first drilling then the second then the last all in line with each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it's hard to see but the rim with the tire was the first and looks alright but with the other rim the spokes are on top of each [in line] other more consistently and turned out much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that's two 1/2 days work and still no tires, but happy with the out come so far.
> Now if I can just come up with a simple tread pattern with out buggering all this work.
> 
> I know this is a lot of info but read it 10 or more times and you'll start to get it.
> I must have watch the video 10 times then took snap shots of the different points to get it in my head, but till you start playing with it that's when it all falls into place.
> That's all folks.


Thanks Julian
I like to go back and look at what projects a commenter has made and yours are out standing and you made some cool toys too!!.
I build a crane like yours but haven't posted it for some reason, maybe because it turned out kind of ugly! LOL


----------



## woodworkerguyca

htl said:


> *Making a spoked wheel*
> 
> Here's a quick *how to* for making spoked wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please watch this video it's where I got my ideas on how to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just used the windows Snapping tool and copied his plan but it's at an angle so not right.
> If I was to do this again I would draw up a better pattern.
> 
> As always changes are made to suit the tools and ability.
> 
> First I cut out all the parts using my holes saw set.
> My wheels are for a 2 3/4 wheel and made adjustments to his plans to work with my hole saw set.
> If I was going to start making a bunch a wheels it would pay to get an adjustable hole saw cutter.
> I made 8 wheels, I only needed 4 for the car and two for the spare tires.
> So had two for experimenting.
> The first turned out ok, by the forth I was getting it figured out.
> All are usable but the last 4 are uniform and consistent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like the video I glued down the rings, I used super glue so no white glue will show up later.
> I also used thicker paper to glue them to didn't want the parts moving as I drilled them.
> Here I'm marking for the drill holes, will be cutting off the out side bottom of the pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I clamped a block so I would have something to hold the part while drilling.
> I used tooth picks for spokes and used 3 different size drill bits to keep control of the wandering of the bit.
> A very small bit just to get the hole started, then switched over to a little bigger and stronger bit to drill through and set the angle, then used the right size to finish it off.
> 
> I got this drill set at HF and it's worked really great on wood doesn't seem to wander like some bits do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would drill all the holes in one direction, glue in the tooth picks then drill in the other direction and glue them up.
> I would drill the first set just below the* center line *then with the next set drill just above the tooth pick, this kept them in line.
> The *center line I'm talking* about here is on the center or axle part.
> For the drilling of the out side, drill first set of holes[one direction] glue in tooth picks for that set then drill right over the hole of the first set of glued in part. [This keeps every thing in line]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut off the tips of the tooth picks so all would be the same thickness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I would glue in a part I would put it in and mark it to know where to put glue, the tip and just before the mark.
> Note If your planing on staining your tires and rims, you better be careful where you glue the spokes or they'll come out white where the glue seals the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Step by step pictures.
> The bottom left picture shows the tooth picks all pointing in one direction [first drilling]
> The second shows them going in other direction [second drilling]
> The third shows then up the middle [third drilling.
> If you could see it, the holes in the center axle part would all be one on top of the other.
> Bottom would be first drilling then the second then the last all in line with each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it's hard to see but the rim with the tire was the first and looks alright but with the other rim the spokes are on top of each [in line] other more consistently and turned out much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that's two 1/2 days work and still no tires, but happy with the out come so far.
> Now if I can just come up with a simple tread pattern with out buggering all this work.
> 
> I know this is a lot of info but read it 10 or more times and you'll start to get it.
> I must have watch the video 10 times then took snap shots of the different points to get it in my head, but till you start playing with it that's when it all falls into place.
> That's all folks.


that is brilliant.


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Making a spoked wheel*
> 
> Here's a quick *how to* for making spoked wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please watch this video it's where I got my ideas on how to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just used the windows Snapping tool and copied his plan but it's at an angle so not right.
> If I was to do this again I would draw up a better pattern.
> 
> As always changes are made to suit the tools and ability.
> 
> First I cut out all the parts using my holes saw set.
> My wheels are for a 2 3/4 wheel and made adjustments to his plans to work with my hole saw set.
> If I was going to start making a bunch a wheels it would pay to get an adjustable hole saw cutter.
> I made 8 wheels, I only needed 4 for the car and two for the spare tires.
> So had two for experimenting.
> The first turned out ok, by the forth I was getting it figured out.
> All are usable but the last 4 are uniform and consistent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like the video I glued down the rings, I used super glue so no white glue will show up later.
> I also used thicker paper to glue them to didn't want the parts moving as I drilled them.
> Here I'm marking for the drill holes, will be cutting off the out side bottom of the pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I clamped a block so I would have something to hold the part while drilling.
> I used tooth picks for spokes and used 3 different size drill bits to keep control of the wandering of the bit.
> A very small bit just to get the hole started, then switched over to a little bigger and stronger bit to drill through and set the angle, then used the right size to finish it off.
> 
> I got this drill set at HF and it's worked really great on wood doesn't seem to wander like some bits do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would drill all the holes in one direction, glue in the tooth picks then drill in the other direction and glue them up.
> I would drill the first set just below the* center line *then with the next set drill just above the tooth pick, this kept them in line.
> The *center line I'm talking* about here is on the center or axle part.
> For the drilling of the out side, drill first set of holes[one direction] glue in tooth picks for that set then drill right over the hole of the first set of glued in part. [This keeps every thing in line]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut off the tips of the tooth picks so all would be the same thickness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I would glue in a part I would put it in and mark it to know where to put glue, the tip and just before the mark.
> Note If your planing on staining your tires and rims, you better be careful where you glue the spokes or they'll come out white where the glue seals the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Step by step pictures.
> The bottom left picture shows the tooth picks all pointing in one direction [first drilling]
> The second shows them going in other direction [second drilling]
> The third shows then up the middle [third drilling.
> If you could see it, the holes in the center axle part would all be one on top of the other.
> Bottom would be first drilling then the second then the last all in line with each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it's hard to see but the rim with the tire was the first and looks alright but with the other rim the spokes are on top of each [in line] other more consistently and turned out much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that's two 1/2 days work and still no tires, but happy with the out come so far.
> Now if I can just come up with a simple tread pattern with out buggering all this work.
> 
> I know this is a lot of info but read it 10 or more times and you'll start to get it.
> I must have watch the video 10 times then took snap shots of the different points to get it in my head, but till you start playing with it that's when it all falls into place.
> That's all folks.


----------



## helluvawreck

htl said:


> *Making a spoked wheel*
> 
> Here's a quick *how to* for making spoked wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please watch this video it's where I got my ideas on how to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just used the windows Snapping tool and copied his plan but it's at an angle so not right.
> If I was to do this again I would draw up a better pattern.
> 
> As always changes are made to suit the tools and ability.
> 
> First I cut out all the parts using my holes saw set.
> My wheels are for a 2 3/4 wheel and made adjustments to his plans to work with my hole saw set.
> If I was going to start making a bunch a wheels it would pay to get an adjustable hole saw cutter.
> I made 8 wheels, I only needed 4 for the car and two for the spare tires.
> So had two for experimenting.
> The first turned out ok, by the forth I was getting it figured out.
> All are usable but the last 4 are uniform and consistent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like the video I glued down the rings, I used super glue so no white glue will show up later.
> I also used thicker paper to glue them to didn't want the parts moving as I drilled them.
> Here I'm marking for the drill holes, will be cutting off the out side bottom of the pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I clamped a block so I would have something to hold the part while drilling.
> I used tooth picks for spokes and used 3 different size drill bits to keep control of the wandering of the bit.
> A very small bit just to get the hole started, then switched over to a little bigger and stronger bit to drill through and set the angle, then used the right size to finish it off.
> 
> I got this drill set at HF and it's worked really great on wood doesn't seem to wander like some bits do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would drill all the holes in one direction, glue in the tooth picks then drill in the other direction and glue them up.
> I would drill the first set just below the* center line *then with the next set drill just above the tooth pick, this kept them in line.
> The *center line I'm talking* about here is on the center or axle part.
> For the drilling of the out side, drill first set of holes[one direction] glue in tooth picks for that set then drill right over the hole of the first set of glued in part. [This keeps every thing in line]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut off the tips of the tooth picks so all would be the same thickness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I would glue in a part I would put it in and mark it to know where to put glue, the tip and just before the mark.
> Note If your planing on staining your tires and rims, you better be careful where you glue the spokes or they'll come out white where the glue seals the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Step by step pictures.
> The bottom left picture shows the tooth picks all pointing in one direction [first drilling]
> The second shows them going in other direction [second drilling]
> The third shows then up the middle [third drilling.
> If you could see it, the holes in the center axle part would all be one on top of the other.
> Bottom would be first drilling then the second then the last all in line with each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it's hard to see but the rim with the tire was the first and looks alright but with the other rim the spokes are on top of each [in line] other more consistently and turned out much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that's two 1/2 days work and still no tires, but happy with the out come so far.
> Now if I can just come up with a simple tread pattern with out buggering all this work.
> 
> I know this is a lot of info but read it 10 or more times and you'll start to get it.
> I must have watch the video 10 times then took snap shots of the different points to get it in my head, but till you start playing with it that's when it all falls into place.
> That's all folks.


Those spoke wheels really look sharp and your presentation is very interesting.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Making a spoked wheel*
> 
> Here's a quick *how to* for making spoked wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please watch this video it's where I got my ideas on how to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just used the windows Snapping tool and copied his plan but it's at an angle so not right.
> If I was to do this again I would draw up a better pattern.
> 
> As always changes are made to suit the tools and ability.
> 
> First I cut out all the parts using my holes saw set.
> My wheels are for a 2 3/4 wheel and made adjustments to his plans to work with my hole saw set.
> If I was going to start making a bunch a wheels it would pay to get an adjustable hole saw cutter.
> I made 8 wheels, I only needed 4 for the car and two for the spare tires.
> So had two for experimenting.
> The first turned out ok, by the forth I was getting it figured out.
> All are usable but the last 4 are uniform and consistent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like the video I glued down the rings, I used super glue so no white glue will show up later.
> I also used thicker paper to glue them to didn't want the parts moving as I drilled them.
> Here I'm marking for the drill holes, will be cutting off the out side bottom of the pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I clamped a block so I would have something to hold the part while drilling.
> I used tooth picks for spokes and used 3 different size drill bits to keep control of the wandering of the bit.
> A very small bit just to get the hole started, then switched over to a little bigger and stronger bit to drill through and set the angle, then used the right size to finish it off.
> 
> I got this drill set at HF and it's worked really great on wood doesn't seem to wander like some bits do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would drill all the holes in one direction, glue in the tooth picks then drill in the other direction and glue them up.
> I would drill the first set just below the* center line *then with the next set drill just above the tooth pick, this kept them in line.
> The *center line I'm talking* about here is on the center or axle part.
> For the drilling of the out side, drill first set of holes[one direction] glue in tooth picks for that set then drill right over the hole of the first set of glued in part. [This keeps every thing in line]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut off the tips of the tooth picks so all would be the same thickness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I would glue in a part I would put it in and mark it to know where to put glue, the tip and just before the mark.
> Note If your planing on staining your tires and rims, you better be careful where you glue the spokes or they'll come out white where the glue seals the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Step by step pictures.
> The bottom left picture shows the tooth picks all pointing in one direction [first drilling]
> The second shows them going in other direction [second drilling]
> The third shows then up the middle [third drilling.
> If you could see it, the holes in the center axle part would all be one on top of the other.
> Bottom would be first drilling then the second then the last all in line with each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it's hard to see but the rim with the tire was the first and looks alright but with the other rim the spokes are on top of each [in line] other more consistently and turned out much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that's two 1/2 days work and still no tires, but happy with the out come so far.
> Now if I can just come up with a simple tread pattern with out buggering all this work.
> 
> I know this is a lot of info but read it 10 or more times and you'll start to get it.
> I must have watch the video 10 times then took snap shots of the different points to get it in my head, but till you start playing with it that's when it all falls into place.
> That's all folks.


The video is the main tool here, I just added some things that you would have had to come up with on your own and this helps you from getting the bald spot on the back of your head that now needs to grow back out if it will.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Making a spoked wheel*
> 
> Here's a quick *how to* for making spoked wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please watch this video it's where I got my ideas on how to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just used the windows Snapping tool and copied his plan but it's at an angle so not right.
> If I was to do this again I would draw up a better pattern.
> 
> As always changes are made to suit the tools and ability.
> 
> First I cut out all the parts using my holes saw set.
> My wheels are for a 2 3/4 wheel and made adjustments to his plans to work with my hole saw set.
> If I was going to start making a bunch a wheels it would pay to get an adjustable hole saw cutter.
> I made 8 wheels, I only needed 4 for the car and two for the spare tires.
> So had two for experimenting.
> The first turned out ok, by the forth I was getting it figured out.
> All are usable but the last 4 are uniform and consistent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like the video I glued down the rings, I used super glue so no white glue will show up later.
> I also used thicker paper to glue them to didn't want the parts moving as I drilled them.
> Here I'm marking for the drill holes, will be cutting off the out side bottom of the pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I clamped a block so I would have something to hold the part while drilling.
> I used tooth picks for spokes and used 3 different size drill bits to keep control of the wandering of the bit.
> A very small bit just to get the hole started, then switched over to a little bigger and stronger bit to drill through and set the angle, then used the right size to finish it off.
> 
> I got this drill set at HF and it's worked really great on wood doesn't seem to wander like some bits do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would drill all the holes in one direction, glue in the tooth picks then drill in the other direction and glue them up.
> I would drill the first set just below the* center line *then with the next set drill just above the tooth pick, this kept them in line.
> The *center line I'm talking* about here is on the center or axle part.
> For the drilling of the out side, drill first set of holes[one direction] glue in tooth picks for that set then drill right over the hole of the first set of glued in part. [This keeps every thing in line]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut off the tips of the tooth picks so all would be the same thickness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I would glue in a part I would put it in and mark it to know where to put glue, the tip and just before the mark.
> Note If your planing on staining your tires and rims, you better be careful where you glue the spokes or they'll come out white where the glue seals the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Step by step pictures.
> The bottom left picture shows the tooth picks all pointing in one direction [first drilling]
> The second shows them going in other direction [second drilling]
> The third shows then up the middle [third drilling.
> If you could see it, the holes in the center axle part would all be one on top of the other.
> Bottom would be first drilling then the second then the last all in line with each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it's hard to see but the rim with the tire was the first and looks alright but with the other rim the spokes are on top of each [in line] other more consistently and turned out much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that's two 1/2 days work and still no tires, but happy with the out come so far.
> Now if I can just come up with a simple tread pattern with out buggering all this work.
> 
> I know this is a lot of info but read it 10 or more times and you'll start to get it.
> I must have watch the video 10 times then took snap shots of the different points to get it in my head, but till you start playing with it that's when it all falls into place.
> That's all folks.


Dutchy I'm hoping you'ed be the one on *"colering" how to *
Pjonesy done a bunch a wheels black what does he call it?
*tires are ebonized *
Would love if he'd give us some hints.


----------



## htl

*Sanding wheels then back to the car building*

I started sanding the wheels with the sander then it hit me this is going way to slow, so the shop smith to the rescue.


















I would have been sanding for hours but with the ss or any drill press I had them sanded and perfect in an hour, and since it was so easy I took more time with them to* get out all* the sanding marks.










I routed around the rim of the test tire and rim and stained it just to get a look see and didn't really like the look, but went back and stained the whole tire and rim and it turned out looking good, but forgot to take a picture so will show it next time I hope.

If I do any more of these I will get a adjustable hole saw cutter so I can make the tire and rim in one peace,I think it will look much better.
I meant to route the center and the inside of the rim but got thinking so much on the spokes I forgot to route them.
You must remember this was a experiment and hind site is 20-20 so know a little better what needs to be done now..but hey not to bad for a first try me thinks.

It just hit me what these tires look like.
Race tires on a road racing motor cycle.
Couldn't you see a tall set of these on a motor cycle model. Hmmm!!!
I love and have owned over 20 bikes so Hmmm!!! on the bike model. LOL








Just showing the back to see the differents of not routing the rim.









The frame was a little bigger than the engine hood so used the router to even it out.


















Wanted to get the insides done so I could seal them before putting on the top.


























Doing the fenders is a real project so got so into it I forgot to take picture so need to do that with the truck. sorry!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Sanding wheels then back to the car building*
> 
> I started sanding the wheels with the sander then it hit me this is going way to slow, so the shop smith to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would have been sanding for hours but with the ss or any drill press I had them sanded and perfect in an hour, and since it was so easy I took more time with them to* get out all* the sanding marks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I routed around the rim of the test tire and rim and stained it just to get a look see and didn't really like the look, but went back and stained the whole tire and rim and it turned out looking good, but forgot to take a picture so will show it next time I hope.
> 
> If I do any more of these I will get a adjustable hole saw cutter so I can make the tire and rim in one peace,I think it will look much better.
> I meant to route the center and the inside of the rim but got thinking so much on the spokes I forgot to route them.
> You must remember this was a experiment and hind site is 20-20 so know a little better what needs to be done now..but hey not to bad for a first try me thinks.
> 
> It just hit me what these tires look like.
> Race tires on a road racing motor cycle.
> Couldn't you see a tall set of these on a motor cycle model. Hmmm!!!
> I love and have owned over 20 bikes so Hmmm!!! on the bike model. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just showing the back to see the differents of not routing the rim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The frame was a little bigger than the engine hood so used the router to even it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wanted to get the insides done so I could seal them before putting on the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doing the fenders is a real project so got so into it I forgot to take picture so need to do that with the truck. sorry!


I repeat my previous call on the wheels, make a video (or a formal document) and I'd certainly buy it, and for quite a tad more than your $.02…

Looks great but would have been easier to glue the fender on rather than running after the car holding it in your hand.

And the* steering wheel*, it is and added touch…

To quote a famous saying….


> ... Got the Lincoln at the same time and price and is a very simple build…


Soooo much for a *simple build*.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Sanding wheels then back to the car building*
> 
> I started sanding the wheels with the sander then it hit me this is going way to slow, so the shop smith to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would have been sanding for hours but with the ss or any drill press I had them sanded and perfect in an hour, and since it was so easy I took more time with them to* get out all* the sanding marks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I routed around the rim of the test tire and rim and stained it just to get a look see and didn't really like the look, but went back and stained the whole tire and rim and it turned out looking good, but forgot to take a picture so will show it next time I hope.
> 
> If I do any more of these I will get a adjustable hole saw cutter so I can make the tire and rim in one peace,I think it will look much better.
> I meant to route the center and the inside of the rim but got thinking so much on the spokes I forgot to route them.
> You must remember this was a experiment and hind site is 20-20 so know a little better what needs to be done now..but hey not to bad for a first try me thinks.
> 
> It just hit me what these tires look like.
> Race tires on a road racing motor cycle.
> Couldn't you see a tall set of these on a motor cycle model. Hmmm!!!
> I love and have owned over 20 bikes so Hmmm!!! on the bike model. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just showing the back to see the differents of not routing the rim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The frame was a little bigger than the engine hood so used the router to even it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wanted to get the insides done so I could seal them before putting on the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doing the fenders is a real project so got so into it I forgot to take picture so need to do that with the truck. sorry!


Ducky don't you recognize a train wheel when you see one. lol
And no I will not put any tracks inside the car!
It's getting to be fun to add parts I have made for something else in my builds., an easter egg kinda thing.

And Ducky that motor cycle build is looking very interesting for some reason.


----------



## bruce317

htl said:


> *Sanding wheels then back to the car building*
> 
> I started sanding the wheels with the sander then it hit me this is going way to slow, so the shop smith to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would have been sanding for hours but with the ss or any drill press I had them sanded and perfect in an hour, and since it was so easy I took more time with them to* get out all* the sanding marks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I routed around the rim of the test tire and rim and stained it just to get a look see and didn't really like the look, but went back and stained the whole tire and rim and it turned out looking good, but forgot to take a picture so will show it next time I hope.
> 
> If I do any more of these I will get a adjustable hole saw cutter so I can make the tire and rim in one peace,I think it will look much better.
> I meant to route the center and the inside of the rim but got thinking so much on the spokes I forgot to route them.
> You must remember this was a experiment and hind site is 20-20 so know a little better what needs to be done now..but hey not to bad for a first try me thinks.
> 
> It just hit me what these tires look like.
> Race tires on a road racing motor cycle.
> Couldn't you see a tall set of these on a motor cycle model. Hmmm!!!
> I love and have owned over 20 bikes so Hmmm!!! on the bike model. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just showing the back to see the differents of not routing the rim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The frame was a little bigger than the engine hood so used the router to even it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wanted to get the insides done so I could seal them before putting on the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doing the fenders is a real project so got so into it I forgot to take picture so need to do that with the truck. sorry!


Your whole build is wonderful! The wheels are ART!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Sanding wheels then back to the car building*
> 
> I started sanding the wheels with the sander then it hit me this is going way to slow, so the shop smith to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would have been sanding for hours but with the ss or any drill press I had them sanded and perfect in an hour, and since it was so easy I took more time with them to* get out all* the sanding marks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I routed around the rim of the test tire and rim and stained it just to get a look see and didn't really like the look, but went back and stained the whole tire and rim and it turned out looking good, but forgot to take a picture so will show it next time I hope.
> 
> If I do any more of these I will get a adjustable hole saw cutter so I can make the tire and rim in one peace,I think it will look much better.
> I meant to route the center and the inside of the rim but got thinking so much on the spokes I forgot to route them.
> You must remember this was a experiment and hind site is 20-20 so know a little better what needs to be done now..but hey not to bad for a first try me thinks.
> 
> It just hit me what these tires look like.
> Race tires on a road racing motor cycle.
> Couldn't you see a tall set of these on a motor cycle model. Hmmm!!!
> I love and have owned over 20 bikes so Hmmm!!! on the bike model. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just showing the back to see the differents of not routing the rim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The frame was a little bigger than the engine hood so used the router to even it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wanted to get the insides done so I could seal them before putting on the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doing the fenders is a real project so got so into it I forgot to take picture so need to do that with the truck. sorry!





> Ducky don't you recognize a train wheel when you see one. lol


Got no beef 'bout dem wheels.. May even use them on *my* *train* build, in fact I just might even make one to put in the* boot *of my real car.

Talking about *boot*s,


> And no I will not put any tracks inside the car!


I tried to keep my previous comments civil, but now that you mentioned the *train TRACKS*... the Lincoln's *boot* is not inside the car. In fact you may think of the *boot* as a caboose and needs to be dragged on… you guessed it *TRACKS*.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Sanding wheels then back to the car building*
> 
> I started sanding the wheels with the sander then it hit me this is going way to slow, so the shop smith to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would have been sanding for hours but with the ss or any drill press I had them sanded and perfect in an hour, and since it was so easy I took more time with them to* get out all* the sanding marks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I routed around the rim of the test tire and rim and stained it just to get a look see and didn't really like the look, but went back and stained the whole tire and rim and it turned out looking good, but forgot to take a picture so will show it next time I hope.
> 
> If I do any more of these I will get a adjustable hole saw cutter so I can make the tire and rim in one peace,I think it will look much better.
> I meant to route the center and the inside of the rim but got thinking so much on the spokes I forgot to route them.
> You must remember this was a experiment and hind site is 20-20 so know a little better what needs to be done now..but hey not to bad for a first try me thinks.
> 
> It just hit me what these tires look like.
> Race tires on a road racing motor cycle.
> Couldn't you see a tall set of these on a motor cycle model. Hmmm!!!
> I love and have owned over 20 bikes so Hmmm!!! on the bike model. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just showing the back to see the differents of not routing the rim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The frame was a little bigger than the engine hood so used the router to even it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wanted to get the insides done so I could seal them before putting on the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doing the fenders is a real project so got so into it I forgot to take picture so need to do that with the truck. sorry!


Ducky I'm not sure you were understanding my comment, the steering wheel is a left over train wheel. LOL
I was just over at Lowes which is a lumber yard here and they had some cut nails that would make great ****************************** for some tracks if it ever come into being.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Sanding wheels then back to the car building*
> 
> I started sanding the wheels with the sander then it hit me this is going way to slow, so the shop smith to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would have been sanding for hours but with the ss or any drill press I had them sanded and perfect in an hour, and since it was so easy I took more time with them to* get out all* the sanding marks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I routed around the rim of the test tire and rim and stained it just to get a look see and didn't really like the look, but went back and stained the whole tire and rim and it turned out looking good, but forgot to take a picture so will show it next time I hope.
> 
> If I do any more of these I will get a adjustable hole saw cutter so I can make the tire and rim in one peace,I think it will look much better.
> I meant to route the center and the inside of the rim but got thinking so much on the spokes I forgot to route them.
> You must remember this was a experiment and hind site is 20-20 so know a little better what needs to be done now..but hey not to bad for a first try me thinks.
> 
> It just hit me what these tires look like.
> Race tires on a road racing motor cycle.
> Couldn't you see a tall set of these on a motor cycle model. Hmmm!!!
> I love and have owned over 20 bikes so Hmmm!!! on the bike model. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just showing the back to see the differents of not routing the rim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The frame was a little bigger than the engine hood so used the router to even it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wanted to get the insides done so I could seal them before putting on the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doing the fenders is a real project so got so into it I forgot to take picture so need to do that with the truck. sorry!





> Ducky I m not sure you were understanding my comment…


Sorry, my bad, though I could be forgiven as I am an foreign Aussie import who spells tyre without an "I".


> ... the steering wheel is a left over train wheel.


In all fairness you don't need wheels on a train without *TRACKS*. Actually without *TRACKs* and wheels you should just call it a Boat with a Cano(s)e. 
And please ask Mr. Lowes to rust proof them there cut nails.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Sanding wheels then back to the car building*
> 
> I started sanding the wheels with the sander then it hit me this is going way to slow, so the shop smith to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would have been sanding for hours but with the ss or any drill press I had them sanded and perfect in an hour, and since it was so easy I took more time with them to* get out all* the sanding marks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I routed around the rim of the test tire and rim and stained it just to get a look see and didn't really like the look, but went back and stained the whole tire and rim and it turned out looking good, but forgot to take a picture so will show it next time I hope.
> 
> If I do any more of these I will get a adjustable hole saw cutter so I can make the tire and rim in one peace,I think it will look much better.
> I meant to route the center and the inside of the rim but got thinking so much on the spokes I forgot to route them.
> You must remember this was a experiment and hind site is 20-20 so know a little better what needs to be done now..but hey not to bad for a first try me thinks.
> 
> It just hit me what these tires look like.
> Race tires on a road racing motor cycle.
> Couldn't you see a tall set of these on a motor cycle model. Hmmm!!!
> I love and have owned over 20 bikes so Hmmm!!! on the bike model. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just showing the back to see the differents of not routing the rim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The frame was a little bigger than the engine hood so used the router to even it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wanted to get the insides done so I could seal them before putting on the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doing the fenders is a real project so got so into it I forgot to take picture so need to do that with the truck. sorry!


Hey Ducky!!!
Here's that cool wooden motor cycle build I was talking about.
He did one out standing job.
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/164546

O!! And here's you some tracks you can make as you wait on me. lol
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/247274


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Sanding wheels then back to the car building*
> 
> I started sanding the wheels with the sander then it hit me this is going way to slow, so the shop smith to the rescue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would have been sanding for hours but with the ss or any drill press I had them sanded and perfect in an hour, and since it was so easy I took more time with them to* get out all* the sanding marks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I routed around the rim of the test tire and rim and stained it just to get a look see and didn't really like the look, but went back and stained the whole tire and rim and it turned out looking good, but forgot to take a picture so will show it next time I hope.
> 
> If I do any more of these I will get a adjustable hole saw cutter so I can make the tire and rim in one peace,I think it will look much better.
> I meant to route the center and the inside of the rim but got thinking so much on the spokes I forgot to route them.
> You must remember this was a experiment and hind site is 20-20 so know a little better what needs to be done now..but hey not to bad for a first try me thinks.
> 
> It just hit me what these tires look like.
> Race tires on a road racing motor cycle.
> Couldn't you see a tall set of these on a motor cycle model. Hmmm!!!
> I love and have owned over 20 bikes so Hmmm!!! on the bike model. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just showing the back to see the differents of not routing the rim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The frame was a little bigger than the engine hood so used the router to even it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wanted to get the insides done so I could seal them before putting on the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doing the fenders is a real project so got so into it I forgot to take picture so need to do that with the truck. sorry!


Very impressive and an outstanding job as you said, but could you imagine the lumber bill…

for the cabinet to store it in???!!!!

Hey thrill-seeker (you'll find a *htl* in there somewhere), my views of upsizing the Sizzler was not quite as grandiose.


----------



## htl

*Last day of the 32 Lincoln Kb*

Go to http://lumberjocks.com/projects/247626 to see the finished project.

I got this plan from Grizzy for $4 on sale and I must say it was a blast to build this car and that's not even talking about the wheels I made.
All the different angles to play with on the fenders and all, makes it turn out just right and looks really nice once built.
I know all the votes were for the tanker truck but I'm really glad I waited so now I have a better idea of what is needed to really soup the truck up I think.
They sell a fancier version of the truck at T&J that I wish I would have bought instead but all the shapes are there to get it done.

So from our last post I needed to drill the axle holes and use the SS to get er done.

I made a sliding table for my Shop smith and it was needed in this part of the project.
I should have drilled out the holes when I first cut out the base but didn't so now it's a tad harder because the base or frame has been cut up for the axles and there's only to points of contact with the table to get it drilled out right.

The distance between the axles is like 16" so one end will be hanging off the table for either drilling.
But with the sliding table I can move the table from side to side and keep the base where it will work.





















































Here's a sneak peak planing to post tomorrow.


















I just couldn't bring myself to cut any grooves in the tires, my nerves just wouldn't put up with me buggering one of them up. lol

Now that it's done I can get back to what I had planed before rearranging my shop.


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## bruce317

htl said:


> *Last day of the 32 Lincoln Kb*
> 
> Go to http://lumberjocks.com/projects/247626 to see the finished project.
> 
> I got this plan from Grizzy for $4 on sale and I must say it was a blast to build this car and that's not even talking about the wheels I made.
> All the different angles to play with on the fenders and all, makes it turn out just right and looks really nice once built.
> I know all the votes were for the tanker truck but I'm really glad I waited so now I have a better idea of what is needed to really soup the truck up I think.
> They sell a fancier version of the truck at T&J that I wish I would have bought instead but all the shapes are there to get it done.
> 
> So from our last post I needed to drill the axle holes and use the SS to get er done.
> 
> I made a sliding table for my Shop smith and it was needed in this part of the project.
> I should have drilled out the holes when I first cut out the base but didn't so now it's a tad harder because the base or frame has been cut up for the axles and there's only to points of contact with the table to get it drilled out right.
> 
> The distance between the axles is like 16" so one end will be hanging off the table for either drilling.
> But with the sliding table I can move the table from side to side and keep the base where it will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a sneak peak planing to post tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just couldn't bring myself to cut any grooves in the tires, my nerves just wouldn't put up with me buggering one of them up. lol
> 
> Now that it's done I can get back to what I had planed before rearranging my shop.


Like other things you made, This is a fine BUILD!!! The wheels really set it off. I will try to post photos of my tank truck tomorrow, for you to see.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Last day of the 32 Lincoln Kb*
> 
> Go to http://lumberjocks.com/projects/247626 to see the finished project.
> 
> I got this plan from Grizzy for $4 on sale and I must say it was a blast to build this car and that's not even talking about the wheels I made.
> All the different angles to play with on the fenders and all, makes it turn out just right and looks really nice once built.
> I know all the votes were for the tanker truck but I'm really glad I waited so now I have a better idea of what is needed to really soup the truck up I think.
> They sell a fancier version of the truck at T&J that I wish I would have bought instead but all the shapes are there to get it done.
> 
> So from our last post I needed to drill the axle holes and use the SS to get er done.
> 
> I made a sliding table for my Shop smith and it was needed in this part of the project.
> I should have drilled out the holes when I first cut out the base but didn't so now it's a tad harder because the base or frame has been cut up for the axles and there's only to points of contact with the table to get it drilled out right.
> 
> The distance between the axles is like 16" so one end will be hanging off the table for either drilling.
> But with the sliding table I can move the table from side to side and keep the base where it will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a sneak peak planing to post tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just couldn't bring myself to cut any grooves in the tires, my nerves just wouldn't put up with me buggering one of them up. lol
> 
> Now that it's done I can get back to what I had planed before rearranging my shop.


That would be cool because that's my next project unless something gets in the way.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Last day of the 32 Lincoln Kb*
> 
> Go to http://lumberjocks.com/projects/247626 to see the finished project.
> 
> I got this plan from Grizzy for $4 on sale and I must say it was a blast to build this car and that's not even talking about the wheels I made.
> All the different angles to play with on the fenders and all, makes it turn out just right and looks really nice once built.
> I know all the votes were for the tanker truck but I'm really glad I waited so now I have a better idea of what is needed to really soup the truck up I think.
> They sell a fancier version of the truck at T&J that I wish I would have bought instead but all the shapes are there to get it done.
> 
> So from our last post I needed to drill the axle holes and use the SS to get er done.
> 
> I made a sliding table for my Shop smith and it was needed in this part of the project.
> I should have drilled out the holes when I first cut out the base but didn't so now it's a tad harder because the base or frame has been cut up for the axles and there's only to points of contact with the table to get it drilled out right.
> 
> The distance between the axles is like 16" so one end will be hanging off the table for either drilling.
> But with the sliding table I can move the table from side to side and keep the base where it will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a sneak peak planing to post tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just couldn't bring myself to cut any grooves in the tires, my nerves just wouldn't put up with me buggering one of them up. lol
> 
> Now that it's done I can get back to what I had planed before rearranging my shop.


That is one beaut wooden model sir….


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## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Last day of the 32 Lincoln Kb*
> 
> Go to http://lumberjocks.com/projects/247626 to see the finished project.
> 
> I got this plan from Grizzy for $4 on sale and I must say it was a blast to build this car and that's not even talking about the wheels I made.
> All the different angles to play with on the fenders and all, makes it turn out just right and looks really nice once built.
> I know all the votes were for the tanker truck but I'm really glad I waited so now I have a better idea of what is needed to really soup the truck up I think.
> They sell a fancier version of the truck at T&J that I wish I would have bought instead but all the shapes are there to get it done.
> 
> So from our last post I needed to drill the axle holes and use the SS to get er done.
> 
> I made a sliding table for my Shop smith and it was needed in this part of the project.
> I should have drilled out the holes when I first cut out the base but didn't so now it's a tad harder because the base or frame has been cut up for the axles and there's only to points of contact with the table to get it drilled out right.
> 
> The distance between the axles is like 16" so one end will be hanging off the table for either drilling.
> But with the sliding table I can move the table from side to side and keep the base where it will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a sneak peak planing to post tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just couldn't bring myself to cut any grooves in the tires, my nerves just wouldn't put up with me buggering one of them up. lol
> 
> Now that it's done I can get back to what I had planed before rearranging my shop.


Cool! You need to carve out a miniature machine gun and lay it on the back seat !


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## htl

htl said:


> *Last day of the 32 Lincoln Kb*
> 
> Go to http://lumberjocks.com/projects/247626 to see the finished project.
> 
> I got this plan from Grizzy for $4 on sale and I must say it was a blast to build this car and that's not even talking about the wheels I made.
> All the different angles to play with on the fenders and all, makes it turn out just right and looks really nice once built.
> I know all the votes were for the tanker truck but I'm really glad I waited so now I have a better idea of what is needed to really soup the truck up I think.
> They sell a fancier version of the truck at T&J that I wish I would have bought instead but all the shapes are there to get it done.
> 
> So from our last post I needed to drill the axle holes and use the SS to get er done.
> 
> I made a sliding table for my Shop smith and it was needed in this part of the project.
> I should have drilled out the holes when I first cut out the base but didn't so now it's a tad harder because the base or frame has been cut up for the axles and there's only to points of contact with the table to get it drilled out right.
> 
> The distance between the axles is like 16" so one end will be hanging off the table for either drilling.
> But with the sliding table I can move the table from side to side and keep the base where it will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a sneak peak planing to post tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just couldn't bring myself to cut any grooves in the tires, my nerves just wouldn't put up with me buggering one of them up. lol
> 
> Now that it's done I can get back to what I had planed before rearranging my shop.


No! No! not Bonnie and Clyde
My goodness some of the stuff you come up with. LOL
Look at the second to last picture there's a bullet hole in the fender. lol
I kept wondering why every time I heard a police siren it would hide behind the belt sander.
And that trunk sure felt heavy for some reason, but I ain't even going to look!!!


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Last day of the 32 Lincoln Kb*
> 
> Go to http://lumberjocks.com/projects/247626 to see the finished project.
> 
> I got this plan from Grizzy for $4 on sale and I must say it was a blast to build this car and that's not even talking about the wheels I made.
> All the different angles to play with on the fenders and all, makes it turn out just right and looks really nice once built.
> I know all the votes were for the tanker truck but I'm really glad I waited so now I have a better idea of what is needed to really soup the truck up I think.
> They sell a fancier version of the truck at T&J that I wish I would have bought instead but all the shapes are there to get it done.
> 
> So from our last post I needed to drill the axle holes and use the SS to get er done.
> 
> I made a sliding table for my Shop smith and it was needed in this part of the project.
> I should have drilled out the holes when I first cut out the base but didn't so now it's a tad harder because the base or frame has been cut up for the axles and there's only to points of contact with the table to get it drilled out right.
> 
> The distance between the axles is like 16" so one end will be hanging off the table for either drilling.
> But with the sliding table I can move the table from side to side and keep the base where it will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Here's a sneak peak planing to post tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just couldn't bring myself to cut any grooves in the tires, my nerves just wouldn't put up with me buggering one of them up. lol
> 
> Now that it's done I can get back to what I had planed before rearranging my shop.


Nice build… New meaning to "*re-inventing the wheel*".



> No! No! not Bonnie and Clyde


Correctamundo, it's (Al)cap on(e).







Knew I'd get to use this picture one day (long story).



> Look at the second to last picture there s a bullet hole in the fender. lol


That's not a bullet hole, it a ding… Bonnie parking in a Walmart car-park..

*BTW.*


> And that trunk sure felt heavy for some reason, but I ain t even going to look!!!


Take a peek, there may be a body or two tied across some *railway TRACKS*.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Last day of the 32 Lincoln Kb*
> 
> Go to http://lumberjocks.com/projects/247626 to see the finished project.
> 
> I got this plan from Grizzy for $4 on sale and I must say it was a blast to build this car and that's not even talking about the wheels I made.
> All the different angles to play with on the fenders and all, makes it turn out just right and looks really nice once built.
> I know all the votes were for the tanker truck but I'm really glad I waited so now I have a better idea of what is needed to really soup the truck up I think.
> They sell a fancier version of the truck at T&J that I wish I would have bought instead but all the shapes are there to get it done.
> 
> So from our last post I needed to drill the axle holes and use the SS to get er done.
> 
> I made a sliding table for my Shop smith and it was needed in this part of the project.
> I should have drilled out the holes when I first cut out the base but didn't so now it's a tad harder because the base or frame has been cut up for the axles and there's only to points of contact with the table to get it drilled out right.
> 
> The distance between the axles is like 16" so one end will be hanging off the table for either drilling.
> But with the sliding table I can move the table from side to side and keep the base where it will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a sneak peak planing to post tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just couldn't bring myself to cut any grooves in the tires, my nerves just wouldn't put up with me buggering one of them up. lol
> 
> Now that it's done I can get back to what I had planed before rearranging my shop.


You guys are a mess that's all I can say!!! LOL


----------



## NormG

htl said:


> *Last day of the 32 Lincoln Kb*
> 
> Go to http://lumberjocks.com/projects/247626 to see the finished project.
> 
> I got this plan from Grizzy for $4 on sale and I must say it was a blast to build this car and that's not even talking about the wheels I made.
> All the different angles to play with on the fenders and all, makes it turn out just right and looks really nice once built.
> I know all the votes were for the tanker truck but I'm really glad I waited so now I have a better idea of what is needed to really soup the truck up I think.
> They sell a fancier version of the truck at T&J that I wish I would have bought instead but all the shapes are there to get it done.
> 
> So from our last post I needed to drill the axle holes and use the SS to get er done.
> 
> I made a sliding table for my Shop smith and it was needed in this part of the project.
> I should have drilled out the holes when I first cut out the base but didn't so now it's a tad harder because the base or frame has been cut up for the axles and there's only to points of contact with the table to get it drilled out right.
> 
> The distance between the axles is like 16" so one end will be hanging off the table for either drilling.
> But with the sliding table I can move the table from side to side and keep the base where it will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a sneak peak planing to post tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just couldn't bring myself to cut any grooves in the tires, my nerves just wouldn't put up with me buggering one of them up. lol
> 
> Now that it's done I can get back to what I had planed before rearranging my shop.


Wow, $4.00 well spent. Great job on the car.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Last day of the 32 Lincoln Kb*
> 
> Go to http://lumberjocks.com/projects/247626 to see the finished project.
> 
> I got this plan from Grizzy for $4 on sale and I must say it was a blast to build this car and that's not even talking about the wheels I made.
> All the different angles to play with on the fenders and all, makes it turn out just right and looks really nice once built.
> I know all the votes were for the tanker truck but I'm really glad I waited so now I have a better idea of what is needed to really soup the truck up I think.
> They sell a fancier version of the truck at T&J that I wish I would have bought instead but all the shapes are there to get it done.
> 
> So from our last post I needed to drill the axle holes and use the SS to get er done.
> 
> I made a sliding table for my Shop smith and it was needed in this part of the project.
> I should have drilled out the holes when I first cut out the base but didn't so now it's a tad harder because the base or frame has been cut up for the axles and there's only to points of contact with the table to get it drilled out right.
> 
> The distance between the axles is like 16" so one end will be hanging off the table for either drilling.
> But with the sliding table I can move the table from side to side and keep the base where it will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a sneak peak planing to post tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just couldn't bring myself to cut any grooves in the tires, my nerves just wouldn't put up with me buggering one of them up. lol
> 
> Now that it's done I can get back to what I had planed before rearranging my shop.





> Like other things you made, This is a fine BUILD!!! The wheels really set it off. I will try to post photos of my tank truck tomorrow, for you to see.
> 
> - bruce317


I'm looking forward to see your truck Bruce 317


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Last day of the 32 Lincoln Kb*
> 
> Go to http://lumberjocks.com/projects/247626 to see the finished project.
> 
> I got this plan from Grizzy for $4 on sale and I must say it was a blast to build this car and that's not even talking about the wheels I made.
> All the different angles to play with on the fenders and all, makes it turn out just right and looks really nice once built.
> I know all the votes were for the tanker truck but I'm really glad I waited so now I have a better idea of what is needed to really soup the truck up I think.
> They sell a fancier version of the truck at T&J that I wish I would have bought instead but all the shapes are there to get it done.
> 
> So from our last post I needed to drill the axle holes and use the SS to get er done.
> 
> I made a sliding table for my Shop smith and it was needed in this part of the project.
> I should have drilled out the holes when I first cut out the base but didn't so now it's a tad harder because the base or frame has been cut up for the axles and there's only to points of contact with the table to get it drilled out right.
> 
> The distance between the axles is like 16" so one end will be hanging off the table for either drilling.
> But with the sliding table I can move the table from side to side and keep the base where it will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a sneak peak planing to post tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just couldn't bring myself to cut any grooves in the tires, my nerves just wouldn't put up with me buggering one of them up. lol
> 
> Now that it's done I can get back to what I had planed before rearranging my shop.


With all that curves it must have been a puzzle, but that doesn't matter to you so below something to puzzle.

Bruce je hebt een prachtig autootje gemaakt. Luister niet naar al die bandieten verhalen.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Last day of the 32 Lincoln Kb*
> 
> Go to http://lumberjocks.com/projects/247626 to see the finished project.
> 
> I got this plan from Grizzy for $4 on sale and I must say it was a blast to build this car and that's not even talking about the wheels I made.
> All the different angles to play with on the fenders and all, makes it turn out just right and looks really nice once built.
> I know all the votes were for the tanker truck but I'm really glad I waited so now I have a better idea of what is needed to really soup the truck up I think.
> They sell a fancier version of the truck at T&J that I wish I would have bought instead but all the shapes are there to get it done.
> 
> So from our last post I needed to drill the axle holes and use the SS to get er done.
> 
> I made a sliding table for my Shop smith and it was needed in this part of the project.
> I should have drilled out the holes when I first cut out the base but didn't so now it's a tad harder because the base or frame has been cut up for the axles and there's only to points of contact with the table to get it drilled out right.
> 
> The distance between the axles is like 16" so one end will be hanging off the table for either drilling.
> But with the sliding table I can move the table from side to side and keep the base where it will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a sneak peak planing to post tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just couldn't bring myself to cut any grooves in the tires, my nerves just wouldn't put up with me buggering one of them up. lol
> 
> Now that it's done I can get back to what I had planed before rearranging my shop.





> Bruce je hebt een prachtig autootje gemaakt. Luister niet naar al die bandieten verhalen.


Zoals altijd , het duurt een Nederlander om de storm te kalmeren.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Last day of the 32 Lincoln Kb*
> 
> Go to http://lumberjocks.com/projects/247626 to see the finished project.
> 
> I got this plan from Grizzy for $4 on sale and I must say it was a blast to build this car and that's not even talking about the wheels I made.
> All the different angles to play with on the fenders and all, makes it turn out just right and looks really nice once built.
> I know all the votes were for the tanker truck but I'm really glad I waited so now I have a better idea of what is needed to really soup the truck up I think.
> They sell a fancier version of the truck at T&J that I wish I would have bought instead but all the shapes are there to get it done.
> 
> So from our last post I needed to drill the axle holes and use the SS to get er done.
> 
> I made a sliding table for my Shop smith and it was needed in this part of the project.
> I should have drilled out the holes when I first cut out the base but didn't so now it's a tad harder because the base or frame has been cut up for the axles and there's only to points of contact with the table to get it drilled out right.
> 
> The distance between the axles is like 16" so one end will be hanging off the table for either drilling.
> But with the sliding table I can move the table from side to side and keep the base where it will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a sneak peak planing to post tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just couldn't bring myself to cut any grooves in the tires, my nerves just wouldn't put up with me buggering one of them up. lol
> 
> Now that it's done I can get back to what I had planed before rearranging my shop.


No Dutchy I do not but I was brought up 35 miles south of Chicago so was near where a lot of it happened.
*Bruce you have created a wonderful car. Do not listen to all those bandits stories.*
And ducky's
*As always , it takes a Dutchman to calm the storm.*


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Last day of the 32 Lincoln Kb*
> 
> Go to http://lumberjocks.com/projects/247626 to see the finished project.
> 
> I got this plan from Grizzy for $4 on sale and I must say it was a blast to build this car and that's not even talking about the wheels I made.
> All the different angles to play with on the fenders and all, makes it turn out just right and looks really nice once built.
> I know all the votes were for the tanker truck but I'm really glad I waited so now I have a better idea of what is needed to really soup the truck up I think.
> They sell a fancier version of the truck at T&J that I wish I would have bought instead but all the shapes are there to get it done.
> 
> So from our last post I needed to drill the axle holes and use the SS to get er done.
> 
> I made a sliding table for my Shop smith and it was needed in this part of the project.
> I should have drilled out the holes when I first cut out the base but didn't so now it's a tad harder because the base or frame has been cut up for the axles and there's only to points of contact with the table to get it drilled out right.
> 
> The distance between the axles is like 16" so one end will be hanging off the table for either drilling.
> But with the sliding table I can move the table from side to side and keep the base where it will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a sneak peak planing to post tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just couldn't bring myself to cut any grooves in the tires, my nerves just wouldn't put up with me buggering one of them up. lol
> 
> Now that it's done I can get back to what I had planed before rearranging my shop.


Thanks, *htl*... I just started hitting keys and that's what came out.


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Last day of the 32 Lincoln Kb*
> 
> Go to http://lumberjocks.com/projects/247626 to see the finished project.
> 
> I got this plan from Grizzy for $4 on sale and I must say it was a blast to build this car and that's not even talking about the wheels I made.
> All the different angles to play with on the fenders and all, makes it turn out just right and looks really nice once built.
> I know all the votes were for the tanker truck but I'm really glad I waited so now I have a better idea of what is needed to really soup the truck up I think.
> They sell a fancier version of the truck at T&J that I wish I would have bought instead but all the shapes are there to get it done.
> 
> So from our last post I needed to drill the axle holes and use the SS to get er done.
> 
> I made a sliding table for my Shop smith and it was needed in this part of the project.
> I should have drilled out the holes when I first cut out the base but didn't so now it's a tad harder because the base or frame has been cut up for the axles and there's only to points of contact with the table to get it drilled out right.
> 
> The distance between the axles is like 16" so one end will be hanging off the table for either drilling.
> But with the sliding table I can move the table from side to side and keep the base where it will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a sneak peak planing to post tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just couldn't bring myself to cut any grooves in the tires, my nerves just wouldn't put up with me buggering one of them up. lol
> 
> Now that it's done I can get back to what I had planed before rearranging my shop.


Calming the storm isn't that necessary. We have dikes.



> No Dutchy I do not but I was brought up 35 miles south of Chicago so was near where a lot of it happened.
> *Bruce you have created a wonderful car. Do not listen to all those bandits stories.*
> And ducky s
> *As always , it takes a Dutchman to calm the storm.*
> 
> - htl


Bruce you are

Graduated summa cum laude.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Last day of the 32 Lincoln Kb*
> 
> Go to http://lumberjocks.com/projects/247626 to see the finished project.
> 
> I got this plan from Grizzy for $4 on sale and I must say it was a blast to build this car and that's not even talking about the wheels I made.
> All the different angles to play with on the fenders and all, makes it turn out just right and looks really nice once built.
> I know all the votes were for the tanker truck but I'm really glad I waited so now I have a better idea of what is needed to really soup the truck up I think.
> They sell a fancier version of the truck at T&J that I wish I would have bought instead but all the shapes are there to get it done.
> 
> So from our last post I needed to drill the axle holes and use the SS to get er done.
> 
> I made a sliding table for my Shop smith and it was needed in this part of the project.
> I should have drilled out the holes when I first cut out the base but didn't so now it's a tad harder because the base or frame has been cut up for the axles and there's only to points of contact with the table to get it drilled out right.
> 
> The distance between the axles is like 16" so one end will be hanging off the table for either drilling.
> But with the sliding table I can move the table from side to side and keep the base where it will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a sneak peak planing to post tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just couldn't bring myself to cut any grooves in the tires, my nerves just wouldn't put up with me buggering one of them up. lol
> 
> Now that it's done I can get back to what I had planed before rearranging my shop.


Dutchy het is Google aan de redding. lol

Hoe zit het met hen appels. lol


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## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Last day of the 32 Lincoln Kb*
> 
> Go to http://lumberjocks.com/projects/247626 to see the finished project.
> 
> I got this plan from Grizzy for $4 on sale and I must say it was a blast to build this car and that's not even talking about the wheels I made.
> All the different angles to play with on the fenders and all, makes it turn out just right and looks really nice once built.
> I know all the votes were for the tanker truck but I'm really glad I waited so now I have a better idea of what is needed to really soup the truck up I think.
> They sell a fancier version of the truck at T&J that I wish I would have bought instead but all the shapes are there to get it done.
> 
> So from our last post I needed to drill the axle holes and use the SS to get er done.
> 
> I made a sliding table for my Shop smith and it was needed in this part of the project.
> I should have drilled out the holes when I first cut out the base but didn't so now it's a tad harder because the base or frame has been cut up for the axles and there's only to points of contact with the table to get it drilled out right.
> 
> The distance between the axles is like 16" so one end will be hanging off the table for either drilling.
> But with the sliding table I can move the table from side to side and keep the base where it will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a sneak peak planing to post tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just couldn't bring myself to cut any grooves in the tires, my nerves just wouldn't put up with me buggering one of them up. lol
> 
> Now that it's done I can get back to what I had planed before rearranging my shop.


HEY! You two guys stop talkin' in code! This site is an American one, so talk in SPANISH !

.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Last day of the 32 Lincoln Kb*
> 
> Go to http://lumberjocks.com/projects/247626 to see the finished project.
> 
> I got this plan from Grizzy for $4 on sale and I must say it was a blast to build this car and that's not even talking about the wheels I made.
> All the different angles to play with on the fenders and all, makes it turn out just right and looks really nice once built.
> I know all the votes were for the tanker truck but I'm really glad I waited so now I have a better idea of what is needed to really soup the truck up I think.
> They sell a fancier version of the truck at T&J that I wish I would have bought instead but all the shapes are there to get it done.
> 
> So from our last post I needed to drill the axle holes and use the SS to get er done.
> 
> I made a sliding table for my Shop smith and it was needed in this part of the project.
> I should have drilled out the holes when I first cut out the base but didn't so now it's a tad harder because the base or frame has been cut up for the axles and there's only to points of contact with the table to get it drilled out right.
> 
> The distance between the axles is like 16" so one end will be hanging off the table for either drilling.
> But with the sliding table I can move the table from side to side and keep the base where it will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Here's a sneak peak planing to post tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just couldn't bring myself to cut any grooves in the tires, my nerves just wouldn't put up with me buggering one of them up. lol
> 
> Now that it's done I can get back to what I had planed before rearranging my shop.


Joe I just told dutchy "Google to the rescue."


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Last day of the 32 Lincoln Kb*
> 
> Go to http://lumberjocks.com/projects/247626 to see the finished project.
> 
> I got this plan from Grizzy for $4 on sale and I must say it was a blast to build this car and that's not even talking about the wheels I made.
> All the different angles to play with on the fenders and all, makes it turn out just right and looks really nice once built.
> I know all the votes were for the tanker truck but I'm really glad I waited so now I have a better idea of what is needed to really soup the truck up I think.
> They sell a fancier version of the truck at T&J that I wish I would have bought instead but all the shapes are there to get it done.
> 
> So from our last post I needed to drill the axle holes and use the SS to get er done.
> 
> I made a sliding table for my Shop smith and it was needed in this part of the project.
> I should have drilled out the holes when I first cut out the base but didn't so now it's a tad harder because the base or frame has been cut up for the axles and there's only to points of contact with the table to get it drilled out right.
> 
> The distance between the axles is like 16" so one end will be hanging off the table for either drilling.
> But with the sliding table I can move the table from side to side and keep the base where it will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Here's a sneak peak planing to post tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just couldn't bring myself to cut any grooves in the tires, my nerves just wouldn't put up with me buggering one of them up. lol
> 
> Now that it's done I can get back to what I had planed before rearranging my shop.





> .. site is an American one, so talk in SPANISH !


Hey Pancho htl, correct yourself… *Google al rescate.*


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Last day of the 32 Lincoln Kb*
> 
> Go to http://lumberjocks.com/projects/247626 to see the finished project.
> 
> I got this plan from Grizzy for $4 on sale and I must say it was a blast to build this car and that's not even talking about the wheels I made.
> All the different angles to play with on the fenders and all, makes it turn out just right and looks really nice once built.
> I know all the votes were for the tanker truck but I'm really glad I waited so now I have a better idea of what is needed to really soup the truck up I think.
> They sell a fancier version of the truck at T&J that I wish I would have bought instead but all the shapes are there to get it done.
> 
> So from our last post I needed to drill the axle holes and use the SS to get er done.
> 
> I made a sliding table for my Shop smith and it was needed in this part of the project.
> I should have drilled out the holes when I first cut out the base but didn't so now it's a tad harder because the base or frame has been cut up for the axles and there's only to points of contact with the table to get it drilled out right.
> 
> The distance between the axles is like 16" so one end will be hanging off the table for either drilling.
> But with the sliding table I can move the table from side to side and keep the base where it will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a sneak peak planing to post tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just couldn't bring myself to cut any grooves in the tires, my nerves just wouldn't put up with me buggering one of them up. lol
> 
> Now that it's done I can get back to what I had planed before rearranging my shop.


I don't talk ducky or dutch just copied what google said it should be???
If it wasn't for the spell checker I wouldn't be on here right now.


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Last day of the 32 Lincoln Kb*
> 
> Go to http://lumberjocks.com/projects/247626 to see the finished project.
> 
> I got this plan from Grizzy for $4 on sale and I must say it was a blast to build this car and that's not even talking about the wheels I made.
> All the different angles to play with on the fenders and all, makes it turn out just right and looks really nice once built.
> I know all the votes were for the tanker truck but I'm really glad I waited so now I have a better idea of what is needed to really soup the truck up I think.
> They sell a fancier version of the truck at T&J that I wish I would have bought instead but all the shapes are there to get it done.
> 
> So from our last post I needed to drill the axle holes and use the SS to get er done.
> 
> I made a sliding table for my Shop smith and it was needed in this part of the project.
> I should have drilled out the holes when I first cut out the base but didn't so now it's a tad harder because the base or frame has been cut up for the axles and there's only to points of contact with the table to get it drilled out right.
> 
> The distance between the axles is like 16" so one end will be hanging off the table for either drilling.
> But with the sliding table I can move the table from side to side and keep the base where it will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a sneak peak planing to post tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just couldn't bring myself to cut any grooves in the tires, my nerves just wouldn't put up with me buggering one of them up. lol
> 
> Now that it's done I can get back to what I had planed before rearranging my shop.





> HEY! You two guys stop talkin in code! This site is an American one, so talk in SPANISH !
> 
> - JoeinGa


 Is that why you use so many pictures?


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Last day of the 32 Lincoln Kb*
> 
> Go to http://lumberjocks.com/projects/247626 to see the finished project.
> 
> I got this plan from Grizzy for $4 on sale and I must say it was a blast to build this car and that's not even talking about the wheels I made.
> All the different angles to play with on the fenders and all, makes it turn out just right and looks really nice once built.
> I know all the votes were for the tanker truck but I'm really glad I waited so now I have a better idea of what is needed to really soup the truck up I think.
> They sell a fancier version of the truck at T&J that I wish I would have bought instead but all the shapes are there to get it done.
> 
> So from our last post I needed to drill the axle holes and use the SS to get er done.
> 
> I made a sliding table for my Shop smith and it was needed in this part of the project.
> I should have drilled out the holes when I first cut out the base but didn't so now it's a tad harder because the base or frame has been cut up for the axles and there's only to points of contact with the table to get it drilled out right.
> 
> The distance between the axles is like 16" so one end will be hanging off the table for either drilling.
> But with the sliding table I can move the table from side to side and keep the base where it will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a sneak peak planing to post tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just couldn't bring myself to cut any grooves in the tires, my nerves just wouldn't put up with me buggering one of them up. lol
> 
> Now that it's done I can get back to what I had planed before rearranging my shop.


Touche Dutchy, but then that's French Netherlands.


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Last day of the 32 Lincoln Kb*
> 
> Go to http://lumberjocks.com/projects/247626 to see the finished project.
> 
> I got this plan from Grizzy for $4 on sale and I must say it was a blast to build this car and that's not even talking about the wheels I made.
> All the different angles to play with on the fenders and all, makes it turn out just right and looks really nice once built.
> I know all the votes were for the tanker truck but I'm really glad I waited so now I have a better idea of what is needed to really soup the truck up I think.
> They sell a fancier version of the truck at T&J that I wish I would have bought instead but all the shapes are there to get it done.
> 
> So from our last post I needed to drill the axle holes and use the SS to get er done.
> 
> I made a sliding table for my Shop smith and it was needed in this part of the project.
> I should have drilled out the holes when I first cut out the base but didn't so now it's a tad harder because the base or frame has been cut up for the axles and there's only to points of contact with the table to get it drilled out right.
> 
> The distance between the axles is like 16" so one end will be hanging off the table for either drilling.
> But with the sliding table I can move the table from side to side and keep the base where it will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a sneak peak planing to post tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just couldn't bring myself to cut any grooves in the tires, my nerves just wouldn't put up with me buggering one of them up. lol
> 
> Now that it's done I can get back to what I had planed before rearranging my shop.





> Touche Dutchy, but then that s French Netherlands.
> 
> - LittleBlackDuck


Well my Grandmother (on my father's side) was French-Canadian. Does that count?


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Last day of the 32 Lincoln Kb*
> 
> Go to http://lumberjocks.com/projects/247626 to see the finished project.
> 
> I got this plan from Grizzy for $4 on sale and I must say it was a blast to build this car and that's not even talking about the wheels I made.
> All the different angles to play with on the fenders and all, makes it turn out just right and looks really nice once built.
> I know all the votes were for the tanker truck but I'm really glad I waited so now I have a better idea of what is needed to really soup the truck up I think.
> They sell a fancier version of the truck at T&J that I wish I would have bought instead but all the shapes are there to get it done.
> 
> So from our last post I needed to drill the axle holes and use the SS to get er done.
> 
> I made a sliding table for my Shop smith and it was needed in this part of the project.
> I should have drilled out the holes when I first cut out the base but didn't so now it's a tad harder because the base or frame has been cut up for the axles and there's only to points of contact with the table to get it drilled out right.
> 
> The distance between the axles is like 16" so one end will be hanging off the table for either drilling.
> But with the sliding table I can move the table from side to side and keep the base where it will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a sneak peak planing to post tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just couldn't bring myself to cut any grooves in the tires, my nerves just wouldn't put up with me buggering one of them up. lol
> 
> Now that it's done I can get back to what I had planed before rearranging my shop.





> ... that count?


Only if you use your fingers… no calculator!


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## bushmaster

htl said:


> *Last day of the 32 Lincoln Kb*
> 
> Go to http://lumberjocks.com/projects/247626 to see the finished project.
> 
> I got this plan from Grizzy for $4 on sale and I must say it was a blast to build this car and that's not even talking about the wheels I made.
> All the different angles to play with on the fenders and all, makes it turn out just right and looks really nice once built.
> I know all the votes were for the tanker truck but I'm really glad I waited so now I have a better idea of what is needed to really soup the truck up I think.
> They sell a fancier version of the truck at T&J that I wish I would have bought instead but all the shapes are there to get it done.
> 
> So from our last post I needed to drill the axle holes and use the SS to get er done.
> 
> I made a sliding table for my Shop smith and it was needed in this part of the project.
> I should have drilled out the holes when I first cut out the base but didn't so now it's a tad harder because the base or frame has been cut up for the axles and there's only to points of contact with the table to get it drilled out right.
> 
> The distance between the axles is like 16" so one end will be hanging off the table for either drilling.
> But with the sliding table I can move the table from side to side and keep the base where it will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a sneak peak planing to post tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just couldn't bring myself to cut any grooves in the tires, my nerves just wouldn't put up with me buggering one of them up. lol
> 
> Now that it's done I can get back to what I had planed before rearranging my shop.


Your wheels are even more impressive than I first thought, I had wondered about all the holes that you drilled through the outside, but now I believe you capped them with another turning as I look at these detailed photo.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Last day of the 32 Lincoln Kb*
> 
> Go to http://lumberjocks.com/projects/247626 to see the finished project.
> 
> I got this plan from Grizzy for $4 on sale and I must say it was a blast to build this car and that's not even talking about the wheels I made.
> All the different angles to play with on the fenders and all, makes it turn out just right and looks really nice once built.
> I know all the votes were for the tanker truck but I'm really glad I waited so now I have a better idea of what is needed to really soup the truck up I think.
> They sell a fancier version of the truck at T&J that I wish I would have bought instead but all the shapes are there to get it done.
> 
> So from our last post I needed to drill the axle holes and use the SS to get er done.
> 
> I made a sliding table for my Shop smith and it was needed in this part of the project.
> I should have drilled out the holes when I first cut out the base but didn't so now it's a tad harder because the base or frame has been cut up for the axles and there's only to points of contact with the table to get it drilled out right.
> 
> The distance between the axles is like 16" so one end will be hanging off the table for either drilling.
> But with the sliding table I can move the table from side to side and keep the base where it will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a sneak peak planing to post tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just couldn't bring myself to cut any grooves in the tires, my nerves just wouldn't put up with me buggering one of them up. lol
> 
> Now that it's done I can get back to what I had planed before rearranging my shop.


There's a lot of details but still a lot to be filled in by reverse engineering. lol
That's why I said you need to read and watch the videos a bunch a times for it all to soak in.
I'm having the same deal with your shaping how to.
Need to read between the lines for all the goodys.
But it won't all come together till you make a set, the same with the fenders.
I was so into getting the tires on the car I didn't even think about rounding the roof or the fenders.
I look back now and see what could have done but still really like the sharp edges of this build too.

With the wheels I now have the main idea how it works, now I need to add the rim & tire shaping and also adding tread to the mix.
That saying about baby steps fits here really well.


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## htl

*Track for the Train*

Well I finally got the shop set up so broke down and made some really quick tracks for the train.
Made it 4' long to fit on a shelf.

Cut a 4' by 3" base for the tracks then clamped it down to the table and used spacers to get the spacing just right and consistent.





































T&J wants you to build a complete rail in I shape but as I shrunk the train down I made T shaped rails and cut a grove in the rail road ties to be glued in to.
I glued all the ties down then used the table saw to cut the grove.

I started to put the train tracks down the center then got the idea to set the train to one side so the train will be closer to the wall and the ties will show up more.
The ties and rails are made from Mahogany scraps.


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Track for the Train*
> 
> Well I finally got the shop set up so broke down and made some really quick tracks for the train.
> Made it 4' long to fit on a shelf.
> 
> Cut a 4' by 3" base for the tracks then clamped it down to the table and used spacers to get the spacing just right and consistent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> T&J wants you to build a complete rail in I shape but as I shrunk the train down I made T shaped rails and cut a grove in the rail road ties to be glued in to.
> I glued all the ties down then used the table saw to cut the grove.
> 
> I started to put the train tracks down the center then got the idea to set the train to one side so the train will be closer to the wall and the ties will show up more.
> The ties and rails are made from Mahogany scraps.


Someone down under the tracks must be impressed.


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## CaptainSkully

htl said:


> *Track for the Train*
> 
> Well I finally got the shop set up so broke down and made some really quick tracks for the train.
> Made it 4' long to fit on a shelf.
> 
> Cut a 4' by 3" base for the tracks then clamped it down to the table and used spacers to get the spacing just right and consistent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> T&J wants you to build a complete rail in I shape but as I shrunk the train down I made T shaped rails and cut a grove in the rail road ties to be glued in to.
> I glued all the ties down then used the table saw to cut the grove.
> 
> I started to put the train tracks down the center then got the idea to set the train to one side so the train will be closer to the wall and the ties will show up more.
> The ties and rails are made from Mahogany scraps.


Awesome! I'm still blown away that modern day train tracks that the space shuttle crawled out to the launch pad on are based on the 4' 8-1/2" width of Roman chariot wheels because that's the width of two horse's withers…


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## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Track for the Train*
> 
> Well I finally got the shop set up so broke down and made some really quick tracks for the train.
> Made it 4' long to fit on a shelf.
> 
> Cut a 4' by 3" base for the tracks then clamped it down to the table and used spacers to get the spacing just right and consistent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> T&J wants you to build a complete rail in I shape but as I shrunk the train down I made T shaped rails and cut a grove in the rail road ties to be glued in to.
> I glued all the ties down then used the table saw to cut the grove.
> 
> I started to put the train tracks down the center then got the idea to set the train to one side so the train will be closer to the wall and the ties will show up more.
> The ties and rails are made from Mahogany scraps.


YAY! TRACKS! FINALLY !
.
.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Track for the Train*
> 
> Well I finally got the shop set up so broke down and made some really quick tracks for the train.
> Made it 4' long to fit on a shelf.
> 
> Cut a 4' by 3" base for the tracks then clamped it down to the table and used spacers to get the spacing just right and consistent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> T&J wants you to build a complete rail in I shape but as I shrunk the train down I made T shaped rails and cut a grove in the rail road ties to be glued in to.
> I glued all the ties down then used the table saw to cut the grove.
> 
> I started to put the train tracks down the center then got the idea to set the train to one side so the train will be closer to the wall and the ties will show up more.
> The ties and rails are made from Mahogany scraps.


I'm very impressed, the tracks look great but the train looks even better sitting on the rails….top job sir


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## htl

htl said:


> *Track for the Train*
> 
> Well I finally got the shop set up so broke down and made some really quick tracks for the train.
> Made it 4' long to fit on a shelf.
> 
> Cut a 4' by 3" base for the tracks then clamped it down to the table and used spacers to get the spacing just right and consistent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> T&J wants you to build a complete rail in I shape but as I shrunk the train down I made T shaped rails and cut a grove in the rail road ties to be glued in to.
> I glued all the ties down then used the table saw to cut the grove.
> 
> I started to put the train tracks down the center then got the idea to set the train to one side so the train will be closer to the wall and the ties will show up more.
> The ties and rails are made from Mahogany scraps.


Joe THANK YOU!!! Thank you Very Much!!! LOL

You Too crowie!!!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Track for the Train*
> 
> Well I finally got the shop set up so broke down and made some really quick tracks for the train.
> Made it 4' long to fit on a shelf.
> 
> Cut a 4' by 3" base for the tracks then clamped it down to the table and used spacers to get the spacing just right and consistent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> T&J wants you to build a complete rail in I shape but as I shrunk the train down I made T shaped rails and cut a grove in the rail road ties to be glued in to.
> I glued all the ties down then used the table saw to cut the grove.
> 
> I started to put the train tracks down the center then got the idea to set the train to one side so the train will be closer to the wall and the ties will show up more.
> The ties and rails are made from Mahogany scraps.


Goes to show the rest of the world was hanging out for the *TRACKs*... not just moi. Kermit croaked our elation.



> ... got the idea to set the train to one side …


Initially I thought that a train on it's side is not what the railway industry refer to a "sleeper". The "left wing" is a nice deviation from the norm (unless you are a Communist) and does present the entire "picture" better. Nice touch.


> T&J wants you to build a complete rail in I shape but as I shrunk the train down I made T shaped


 *"T"* tracks, not *"I"* ... arrrggghhh, *James Watt *would roll over in his grave! I am starting to think that your promotion to *HTL *was a tad premature and you have officially been demoted to *hTL*...
Take time with the *Lincoln LIGHTs *and I'll *light*en your promotion back to *htL* ...


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Track for the Train*
> 
> Well I finally got the shop set up so broke down and made some really quick tracks for the train.
> Made it 4' long to fit on a shelf.
> 
> Cut a 4' by 3" base for the tracks then clamped it down to the table and used spacers to get the spacing just right and consistent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> T&J wants you to build a complete rail in I shape but as I shrunk the train down I made T shaped rails and cut a grove in the rail road ties to be glued in to.
> I glued all the ties down then used the table saw to cut the grove.
> 
> I started to put the train tracks down the center then got the idea to set the train to one side so the train will be closer to the wall and the ties will show up more.
> The ties and rails are made from Mahogany scraps.





> ... made from Mahogany *scraps*. ...


Nearly every time I read a blog, everyone seem to refer to this magical timber called "xxx *scraps*".

*hTL* you are also guilty. Finally I have lost my composure and I have to ask. "Where do you get it!"

I have searched high and wide in nearly every Australian timber merchant and most other neighbouring countries within swimming distance to buy "*scraps*" and they all just "look at me stupid" or is it "look at me, stupid".


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Track for the Train*
> 
> Well I finally got the shop set up so broke down and made some really quick tracks for the train.
> Made it 4' long to fit on a shelf.
> 
> Cut a 4' by 3" base for the tracks then clamped it down to the table and used spacers to get the spacing just right and consistent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> T&J wants you to build a complete rail in I shape but as I shrunk the train down I made T shaped rails and cut a grove in the rail road ties to be glued in to.
> I glued all the ties down then used the table saw to cut the grove.
> 
> I started to put the train tracks down the center then got the idea to set the train to one side so the train will be closer to the wall and the ties will show up more.
> The ties and rails are made from Mahogany scraps.


I'm just about ready to quite talking with you Duck.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Track for the Train*
> 
> Well I finally got the shop set up so broke down and made some really quick tracks for the train.
> Made it 4' long to fit on a shelf.
> 
> Cut a 4' by 3" base for the tracks then clamped it down to the table and used spacers to get the spacing just right and consistent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> T&J wants you to build a complete rail in I shape but as I shrunk the train down I made T shaped rails and cut a grove in the rail road ties to be glued in to.
> I glued all the ties down then used the table saw to cut the grove.
> 
> I started to put the train tracks down the center then got the idea to set the train to one side so the train will be closer to the wall and the ties will show up more.
> The ties and rails are made from Mahogany scraps.


Sorry htl, not sure whether you mean "a quite talk" as in therapist, or "quit talking" as in give it a rest. Either way I'll just shut up.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Track for the Train*
> 
> Well I finally got the shop set up so broke down and made some really quick tracks for the train.
> Made it 4' long to fit on a shelf.
> 
> Cut a 4' by 3" base for the tracks then clamped it down to the table and used spacers to get the spacing just right and consistent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> T&J wants you to build a complete rail in I shape but as I shrunk the train down I made T shaped rails and cut a grove in the rail road ties to be glued in to.
> I glued all the ties down then used the table saw to cut the grove.
> 
> I started to put the train tracks down the center then got the idea to set the train to one side so the train will be closer to the wall and the ties will show up more.
> The ties and rails are made from Mahogany scraps.


Ducky love them jigs you been showing and will be using them in the not to distant future to improve my work.
Love to build them so way cool posts!!!

Wish I had a way to delete my last post Ducky!!!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Track for the Train*
> 
> Well I finally got the shop set up so broke down and made some really quick tracks for the train.
> Made it 4' long to fit on a shelf.
> 
> Cut a 4' by 3" base for the tracks then clamped it down to the table and used spacers to get the spacing just right and consistent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> T&J wants you to build a complete rail in I shape but as I shrunk the train down I made T shaped rails and cut a grove in the rail road ties to be glued in to.
> I glued all the ties down then used the table saw to cut the grove.
> 
> I started to put the train tracks down the center then got the idea to set the train to one side so the train will be closer to the wall and the ties will show up more.
> The ties and rails are made from Mahogany scraps.


What post????

As my wife once screamed to me… "Alex look out for that keep left sign!"... "What keep left sign?". *BANG*. "That keep left sign!".

I'd have forgotten it, if she didn't keep reminding me.


----------



## htl

*Tanker Truck #1*

Started playing with the plans for the tanker truck.
T&J has two tanker trucks, this one was put out in 1985 if I remember right and is a very simple plan with 2 pages to work with.
The newer one is much more elaborate having tool boxes and oil drums on the sides.
It had fenders going to the tool boxes and stopping.

The one I have has full fenders but no tool boxes and the tank is rounder.

I'm going to be copying the squarer looking tank but still not sure about the tools boxes yet.

I had a cutting board that I made and never used so will be using it to make my main parts for this build.

First of all I go to the copier and make copys of all the parts that will need to be shaped.









Using the copied plans I cut out and glue to the wood that will make the frame and axles.










Then cut up the cutting board for the hood and tank glue up.










Next I glued the pattern for the tank that will need to be rounded but first I used the table saw to cut out part of the circle so I won't have to sand as much .









Then I glued a block to the wood to help hold it square as I sand the part.









Then cut out and built the cab seat and steering wheel.



















Here's the top part of the tank and picture from different angles.





































Added the bottom of the tank.



























I could have made my life a lot easier if I had used solid wood for this build but where's the fun in that.









Here's something from the newer plans added partitions in the tank.









Starting to glue up the partitions.










And that's all folks for today.


----------



## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Tanker Truck #1*
> 
> Started playing with the plans for the tanker truck.
> T&J has two tanker trucks, this one was put out in 1985 if I remember right and is a very simple plan with 2 pages to work with.
> The newer one is much more elaborate having tool boxes and oil drums on the sides.
> It had fenders going to the tool boxes and stopping.
> 
> The one I have has full fenders but no tool boxes and the tank is rounder.
> 
> I'm going to be copying the squarer looking tank but still not sure about the tools boxes yet.
> 
> I had a cutting board that I made and never used so will be using it to make my main parts for this build.
> 
> First of all I go to the copier and make copys of all the parts that will need to be shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the copied plans I cut out and glue to the wood that will make the frame and axles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut up the cutting board for the hood and tank glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I glued the pattern for the tank that will need to be rounded but first I used the table saw to cut out part of the circle so I won't have to sand as much .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I glued a block to the wood to help hold it square as I sand the part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut out and built the cab seat and steering wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the top part of the tank and picture from different angles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added the bottom of the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could have made my life a lot easier if I had used solid wood for this build but where's the fun in that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's something from the newer plans added partitions in the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Starting to glue up the partitions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's all folks for today.


That is going to be very neat AND DOUBLE DUTY!

Exercise GYM and toy truck!


----------



## Northwest29

htl said:


> *Tanker Truck #1*
> 
> Started playing with the plans for the tanker truck.
> T&J has two tanker trucks, this one was put out in 1985 if I remember right and is a very simple plan with 2 pages to work with.
> The newer one is much more elaborate having tool boxes and oil drums on the sides.
> It had fenders going to the tool boxes and stopping.
> 
> The one I have has full fenders but no tool boxes and the tank is rounder.
> 
> I'm going to be copying the squarer looking tank but still not sure about the tools boxes yet.
> 
> I had a cutting board that I made and never used so will be using it to make my main parts for this build.
> 
> First of all I go to the copier and make copys of all the parts that will need to be shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the copied plans I cut out and glue to the wood that will make the frame and axles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut up the cutting board for the hood and tank glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I glued the pattern for the tank that will need to be rounded but first I used the table saw to cut out part of the circle so I won't have to sand as much .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I glued a block to the wood to help hold it square as I sand the part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut out and built the cab seat and steering wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the top part of the tank and picture from different angles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added the bottom of the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could have made my life a lot easier if I had used solid wood for this build but where's the fun in that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's something from the newer plans added partitions in the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Starting to glue up the partitions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's all folks for today.


Looks really great and good reuse of wood. Since you will have all these odd grains showing are you planning to paint or leave it as is?


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Tanker Truck #1*
> 
> Started playing with the plans for the tanker truck.
> T&J has two tanker trucks, this one was put out in 1985 if I remember right and is a very simple plan with 2 pages to work with.
> The newer one is much more elaborate having tool boxes and oil drums on the sides.
> It had fenders going to the tool boxes and stopping.
> 
> The one I have has full fenders but no tool boxes and the tank is rounder.
> 
> I'm going to be copying the squarer looking tank but still not sure about the tools boxes yet.
> 
> I had a cutting board that I made and never used so will be using it to make my main parts for this build.
> 
> First of all I go to the copier and make copys of all the parts that will need to be shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the copied plans I cut out and glue to the wood that will make the frame and axles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut up the cutting board for the hood and tank glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I glued the pattern for the tank that will need to be rounded but first I used the table saw to cut out part of the circle so I won't have to sand as much .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I glued a block to the wood to help hold it square as I sand the part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut out and built the cab seat and steering wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the top part of the tank and picture from different angles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added the bottom of the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could have made my life a lot easier if I had used solid wood for this build but where's the fun in that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's something from the newer plans added partitions in the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Starting to glue up the partitions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's all folks for today.


Clear hand rub finish to make it pop! LOL
There's will be not painting on these models, if I was going to paint I would have used 2 by 4's and made my life a lot easier.
In fact if I had used 2 by 4 the project would already be done.


----------



## bruce317

htl said:


> *Tanker Truck #1*
> 
> Started playing with the plans for the tanker truck.
> T&J has two tanker trucks, this one was put out in 1985 if I remember right and is a very simple plan with 2 pages to work with.
> The newer one is much more elaborate having tool boxes and oil drums on the sides.
> It had fenders going to the tool boxes and stopping.
> 
> The one I have has full fenders but no tool boxes and the tank is rounder.
> 
> I'm going to be copying the squarer looking tank but still not sure about the tools boxes yet.
> 
> I had a cutting board that I made and never used so will be using it to make my main parts for this build.
> 
> First of all I go to the copier and make copys of all the parts that will need to be shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the copied plans I cut out and glue to the wood that will make the frame and axles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut up the cutting board for the hood and tank glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I glued the pattern for the tank that will need to be rounded but first I used the table saw to cut out part of the circle so I won't have to sand as much .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I glued a block to the wood to help hold it square as I sand the part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut out and built the cab seat and steering wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the top part of the tank and picture from different angles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added the bottom of the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could have made my life a lot easier if I had used solid wood for this build but where's the fun in that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's something from the newer plans added partitions in the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Starting to glue up the partitions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's all folks for today.


Bruce,
Great way of making it your own. love what your doing.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Tanker Truck #1*
> 
> Started playing with the plans for the tanker truck.
> T&J has two tanker trucks, this one was put out in 1985 if I remember right and is a very simple plan with 2 pages to work with.
> The newer one is much more elaborate having tool boxes and oil drums on the sides.
> It had fenders going to the tool boxes and stopping.
> 
> The one I have has full fenders but no tool boxes and the tank is rounder.
> 
> I'm going to be copying the squarer looking tank but still not sure about the tools boxes yet.
> 
> I had a cutting board that I made and never used so will be using it to make my main parts for this build.
> 
> First of all I go to the copier and make copys of all the parts that will need to be shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the copied plans I cut out and glue to the wood that will make the frame and axles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut up the cutting board for the hood and tank glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I glued the pattern for the tank that will need to be rounded but first I used the table saw to cut out part of the circle so I won't have to sand as much .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I glued a block to the wood to help hold it square as I sand the part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut out and built the cab seat and steering wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the top part of the tank and picture from different angles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added the bottom of the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could have made my life a lot easier if I had used solid wood for this build but where's the fun in that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's something from the newer plans added partitions in the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Starting to glue up the partitions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's all folks for today.


Sorry Bruce, I haven't actually had a chance to read any part of this blog at the moment but observe the first picture and will promise to read later.

In the meantime based on the first picture I am nominating you as a "*hand-model*" of the year.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Tanker Truck #1*
> 
> Started playing with the plans for the tanker truck.
> T&J has two tanker trucks, this one was put out in 1985 if I remember right and is a very simple plan with 2 pages to work with.
> The newer one is much more elaborate having tool boxes and oil drums on the sides.
> It had fenders going to the tool boxes and stopping.
> 
> The one I have has full fenders but no tool boxes and the tank is rounder.
> 
> I'm going to be copying the squarer looking tank but still not sure about the tools boxes yet.
> 
> I had a cutting board that I made and never used so will be using it to make my main parts for this build.
> 
> First of all I go to the copier and make copys of all the parts that will need to be shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the copied plans I cut out and glue to the wood that will make the frame and axles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut up the cutting board for the hood and tank glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I glued the pattern for the tank that will need to be rounded but first I used the table saw to cut out part of the circle so I won't have to sand as much .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I glued a block to the wood to help hold it square as I sand the part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut out and built the cab seat and steering wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the top part of the tank and picture from different angles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added the bottom of the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could have made my life a lot easier if I had used solid wood for this build but where's the fun in that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's something from the newer plans added partitions in the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Starting to glue up the partitions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's all folks for today.


G'Day Bruce, 
Thank you for showing how you did the half cylinder using a set of glued timber pieces…
Something I hadn't thought of, always using solid timber blocks…
May I also compliment you on the shaping as it looks very symmetrical especially using the disc sander…top job sir.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Tanker Truck #1*
> 
> Started playing with the plans for the tanker truck.
> T&J has two tanker trucks, this one was put out in 1985 if I remember right and is a very simple plan with 2 pages to work with.
> The newer one is much more elaborate having tool boxes and oil drums on the sides.
> It had fenders going to the tool boxes and stopping.
> 
> The one I have has full fenders but no tool boxes and the tank is rounder.
> 
> I'm going to be copying the squarer looking tank but still not sure about the tools boxes yet.
> 
> I had a cutting board that I made and never used so will be using it to make my main parts for this build.
> 
> First of all I go to the copier and make copys of all the parts that will need to be shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the copied plans I cut out and glue to the wood that will make the frame and axles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut up the cutting board for the hood and tank glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I glued the pattern for the tank that will need to be rounded but first I used the table saw to cut out part of the circle so I won't have to sand as much .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I glued a block to the wood to help hold it square as I sand the part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut out and built the cab seat and steering wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the top part of the tank and picture from different angles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added the bottom of the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could have made my life a lot easier if I had used solid wood for this build but where's the fun in that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's something from the newer plans added partitions in the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Starting to glue up the partitions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's all folks for today.


Crowie I look back at the pictures and see where I could have used some filler and not used up all the cutting board wood in one place where half of it will never be seen but hind sight is 20-20.
Just had the cutting board parts [it had been part of my scratch built computer case and when I took it apart the board split] so has been sitting around in the way but not any more. LOL

"shaping as it looks very symmetrical especially using the disc sander" 
Having a 10" disk sander makes it easy to square up parts and shape, as long as you have a board hot glued to it to keep it parallel.
Just glue on the pattern and cut a tad big with the band saw then sand to the pattern.

The engine hood is the hard one where both ends are a different shape.


----------



## johnstoneb

htl said:


> *Tanker Truck #1*
> 
> Started playing with the plans for the tanker truck.
> T&J has two tanker trucks, this one was put out in 1985 if I remember right and is a very simple plan with 2 pages to work with.
> The newer one is much more elaborate having tool boxes and oil drums on the sides.
> It had fenders going to the tool boxes and stopping.
> 
> The one I have has full fenders but no tool boxes and the tank is rounder.
> 
> I'm going to be copying the squarer looking tank but still not sure about the tools boxes yet.
> 
> I had a cutting board that I made and never used so will be using it to make my main parts for this build.
> 
> First of all I go to the copier and make copys of all the parts that will need to be shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the copied plans I cut out and glue to the wood that will make the frame and axles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut up the cutting board for the hood and tank glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I glued the pattern for the tank that will need to be rounded but first I used the table saw to cut out part of the circle so I won't have to sand as much .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I glued a block to the wood to help hold it square as I sand the part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut out and built the cab seat and steering wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the top part of the tank and picture from different angles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added the bottom of the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could have made my life a lot easier if I had used solid wood for this build but where's the fun in that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's something from the newer plans added partitions in the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Starting to glue up the partitions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's all folks for today.


Good use for a cutting board.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Tanker Truck #1*
> 
> Started playing with the plans for the tanker truck.
> T&J has two tanker trucks, this one was put out in 1985 if I remember right and is a very simple plan with 2 pages to work with.
> The newer one is much more elaborate having tool boxes and oil drums on the sides.
> It had fenders going to the tool boxes and stopping.
> 
> The one I have has full fenders but no tool boxes and the tank is rounder.
> 
> I'm going to be copying the squarer looking tank but still not sure about the tools boxes yet.
> 
> I had a cutting board that I made and never used so will be using it to make my main parts for this build.
> 
> First of all I go to the copier and make copys of all the parts that will need to be shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the copied plans I cut out and glue to the wood that will make the frame and axles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut up the cutting board for the hood and tank glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I glued the pattern for the tank that will need to be rounded but first I used the table saw to cut out part of the circle so I won't have to sand as much .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I glued a block to the wood to help hold it square as I sand the part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut out and built the cab seat and steering wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the top part of the tank and picture from different angles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added the bottom of the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could have made my life a lot easier if I had used solid wood for this build but where's the fun in that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's something from the newer plans added partitions in the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Starting to glue up the partitions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's all folks for today.


Here's where the cutting board came from.
I made another wood case and just had this sitting around gathering dust so back in the scrap wood to be reused.
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/139697


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Tanker Truck #1*
> 
> Started playing with the plans for the tanker truck.
> T&J has two tanker trucks, this one was put out in 1985 if I remember right and is a very simple plan with 2 pages to work with.
> The newer one is much more elaborate having tool boxes and oil drums on the sides.
> It had fenders going to the tool boxes and stopping.
> 
> The one I have has full fenders but no tool boxes and the tank is rounder.
> 
> I'm going to be copying the squarer looking tank but still not sure about the tools boxes yet.
> 
> I had a cutting board that I made and never used so will be using it to make my main parts for this build.
> 
> First of all I go to the copier and make copys of all the parts that will need to be shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the copied plans I cut out and glue to the wood that will make the frame and axles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut up the cutting board for the hood and tank glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I glued the pattern for the tank that will need to be rounded but first I used the table saw to cut out part of the circle so I won't have to sand as much .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I glued a block to the wood to help hold it square as I sand the part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut out and built the cab seat and steering wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the top part of the tank and picture from different angles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added the bottom of the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could have made my life a lot easier if I had used solid wood for this build but where's the fun in that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's something from the newer plans added partitions in the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Starting to glue up the partitions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's all folks for today.





> ... so back in the scrap wood to be reused.
> 
> - htl


Shame to see good work re-cycled. Re-assigned with a face lift, yes, scrapped, sad.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Tanker Truck #1*
> 
> Started playing with the plans for the tanker truck.
> T&J has two tanker trucks, this one was put out in 1985 if I remember right and is a very simple plan with 2 pages to work with.
> The newer one is much more elaborate having tool boxes and oil drums on the sides.
> It had fenders going to the tool boxes and stopping.
> 
> The one I have has full fenders but no tool boxes and the tank is rounder.
> 
> I'm going to be copying the squarer looking tank but still not sure about the tools boxes yet.
> 
> I had a cutting board that I made and never used so will be using it to make my main parts for this build.
> 
> First of all I go to the copier and make copys of all the parts that will need to be shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the copied plans I cut out and glue to the wood that will make the frame and axles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut up the cutting board for the hood and tank glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I glued the pattern for the tank that will need to be rounded but first I used the table saw to cut out part of the circle so I won't have to sand as much .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I glued a block to the wood to help hold it square as I sand the part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut out and built the cab seat and steering wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the top part of the tank and picture from different angles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added the bottom of the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could have made my life a lot easier if I had used solid wood for this build but where's the fun in that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's something from the newer plans added partitions in the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Starting to glue up the partitions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's all folks for today.


It was just an experiment at making a wood case and worked ok but I like to tinker with my computers, adding hard drives to booting 2 and 3 different OS operating systems at any time so the design was to limiting and plus found that other wood case design that I really like the looks of much better.
I was in to hackintoshs for a while and love the apple old aluminium cases they used to use.
Have made four hackintoshs using your cases.
You can see one of them in action in the train pictures up on the shelf .
I needed to add a tower cooler to it after being in the wood case.

I don't have the memory to be a programmer but I can build a pretty mean computer when called for.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Tanker Truck #1*
> 
> Started playing with the plans for the tanker truck.
> T&J has two tanker trucks, this one was put out in 1985 if I remember right and is a very simple plan with 2 pages to work with.
> The newer one is much more elaborate having tool boxes and oil drums on the sides.
> It had fenders going to the tool boxes and stopping.
> 
> The one I have has full fenders but no tool boxes and the tank is rounder.
> 
> I'm going to be copying the squarer looking tank but still not sure about the tools boxes yet.
> 
> I had a cutting board that I made and never used so will be using it to make my main parts for this build.
> 
> First of all I go to the copier and make copys of all the parts that will need to be shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the copied plans I cut out and glue to the wood that will make the frame and axles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut up the cutting board for the hood and tank glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I glued the pattern for the tank that will need to be rounded but first I used the table saw to cut out part of the circle so I won't have to sand as much .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I glued a block to the wood to help hold it square as I sand the part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut out and built the cab seat and steering wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the top part of the tank and picture from different angles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added the bottom of the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could have made my life a lot easier if I had used solid wood for this build but where's the fun in that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's something from the newer plans added partitions in the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Starting to glue up the partitions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's all folks for today.


Unfortunately for someone supposed to be intelligent I erred and chose against the Mac, going down the dark side with Windows (in typical voyeur fashion). Now I'm struggling with Linux on my NAS.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Tanker Truck #1*
> 
> Started playing with the plans for the tanker truck.
> T&J has two tanker trucks, this one was put out in 1985 if I remember right and is a very simple plan with 2 pages to work with.
> The newer one is much more elaborate having tool boxes and oil drums on the sides.
> It had fenders going to the tool boxes and stopping.
> 
> The one I have has full fenders but no tool boxes and the tank is rounder.
> 
> I'm going to be copying the squarer looking tank but still not sure about the tools boxes yet.
> 
> I had a cutting board that I made and never used so will be using it to make my main parts for this build.
> 
> First of all I go to the copier and make copys of all the parts that will need to be shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the copied plans I cut out and glue to the wood that will make the frame and axles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut up the cutting board for the hood and tank glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I glued the pattern for the tank that will need to be rounded but first I used the table saw to cut out part of the circle so I won't have to sand as much .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I glued a block to the wood to help hold it square as I sand the part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut out and built the cab seat and steering wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the top part of the tank and picture from different angles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added the bottom of the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could have made my life a lot easier if I had used solid wood for this build but where's the fun in that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's something from the newer plans added partitions in the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Starting to glue up the partitions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's all folks for today.


Duchy I really like building Hacintoshs and for some reason I can read the type better on a mac, I don't know if it's better drivers or what but the words are MUCH clearer on the mac. 
The last month or so I'm back on Windows been using it since win 3.
I need to get all my computers set for windows 10 while it's free but I really don't want to.
I play with Linux about once a year or so hoping it can be useful but really just play with it.
Once windows goes $$ again and they do some thing stupid that kills all my copys, Linux will be looking better and better.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Tanker Truck #1*
> 
> Started playing with the plans for the tanker truck.
> T&J has two tanker trucks, this one was put out in 1985 if I remember right and is a very simple plan with 2 pages to work with.
> The newer one is much more elaborate having tool boxes and oil drums on the sides.
> It had fenders going to the tool boxes and stopping.
> 
> The one I have has full fenders but no tool boxes and the tank is rounder.
> 
> I'm going to be copying the squarer looking tank but still not sure about the tools boxes yet.
> 
> I had a cutting board that I made and never used so will be using it to make my main parts for this build.
> 
> First of all I go to the copier and make copys of all the parts that will need to be shaped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the copied plans I cut out and glue to the wood that will make the frame and axles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut up the cutting board for the hood and tank glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I glued the pattern for the tank that will need to be rounded but first I used the table saw to cut out part of the circle so I won't have to sand as much .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I glued a block to the wood to help hold it square as I sand the part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut out and built the cab seat and steering wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the top part of the tank and picture from different angles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added the bottom of the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could have made my life a lot easier if I had used solid wood for this build but where's the fun in that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's something from the newer plans added partitions in the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Starting to glue up the partitions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's all folks for today.


Even though I'm older, I've used Windows ever since I learnt how to break in.
While I would never begrudge Gatesey earning another billion dollars, be a Scotsman and stick with the Mac. I've uninstalled Win 10 more times than I've had sex and I used to be promiscuous and also got it for free.


----------



## htl

*Tanker Truck #2*

Starting to put the tank together, make the radiator,roof and play with the axles.

Yesterday I cut the tank in three for the partitions then glued up one side of each partition and quit for the day and spent the evening trying to come up with a way to make sure the partitions followed the shape of the tank.



















Here's what it looks like all together but still only one side of each partition is glued.










So here's one way to solve the problem.

Made a jig to sand the edges of the partitions to get them to match the tank sides.

In the picture you see a round wood form nailed to the table it is about 1/4" bigger than the sanding drum I used. [I would have loved to uses a bigger drum but this is the one that fit 1/4 bigger than any hole saw I had on hand.]









I tacked the form to the table then put a drill bit in the drill to center the drill to the form.
Now the drum will be centered with the form.
[I wish I would have had a large bearing for my flush router bit could have done the job in minutes]


















Next took a thin pencil and scribed a line around the partition to know where to cut with the band saw.
Cut clear of the mark want the sander to do the main shaping.













































Didn't like the way they do the axle on these plans, wanted a real axle not one that's part of the frame.



























Just some put together shots not glued up yet.























































That's all folks.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Tanker Truck #2*
> 
> Starting to put the tank together, make the radiator,roof and play with the axles.
> 
> Yesterday I cut the tank in three for the partitions then glued up one side of each partition and quit for the day and spent the evening trying to come up with a way to make sure the partitions followed the shape of the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what it looks like all together but still only one side of each partition is glued.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's one way to solve the problem.
> 
> Made a jig to sand the edges of the partitions to get them to match the tank sides.
> 
> In the picture you see a round wood form nailed to the table it is about 1/4" bigger than the sanding drum I used. [I would have loved to uses a bigger drum but this is the one that fit 1/4 bigger than any hole saw I had on hand.]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tacked the form to the table then put a drill bit in the drill to center the drill to the form.
> Now the drum will be centered with the form.
> [I wish I would have had a large bearing for my flush router bit could have done the job in minutes]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next took a thin pencil and scribed a line around the partition to know where to cut with the band saw.
> Cut clear of the mark want the sander to do the main shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't like the way they do the axle on these plans, wanted a real axle not one that's part of the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just some put together shots not glued up yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks.


Magnificent Bruce….that's looking so, so good sir….


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Tanker Truck #2*
> 
> Starting to put the tank together, make the radiator,roof and play with the axles.
> 
> Yesterday I cut the tank in three for the partitions then glued up one side of each partition and quit for the day and spent the evening trying to come up with a way to make sure the partitions followed the shape of the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what it looks like all together but still only one side of each partition is glued.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's one way to solve the problem.
> 
> Made a jig to sand the edges of the partitions to get them to match the tank sides.
> 
> In the picture you see a round wood form nailed to the table it is about 1/4" bigger than the sanding drum I used. [I would have loved to uses a bigger drum but this is the one that fit 1/4 bigger than any hole saw I had on hand.]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tacked the form to the table then put a drill bit in the drill to center the drill to the form.
> Now the drum will be centered with the form.
> [I wish I would have had a large bearing for my flush router bit could have done the job in minutes]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next took a thin pencil and scribed a line around the partition to know where to cut with the band saw.
> Cut clear of the mark want the sander to do the main shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't like the way they do the axle on these plans, wanted a real axle not one that's part of the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just some put together shots not glued up yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks.


Very ingenious. I must admit that for similar operations in the past I never considered sanding. I've got more sand in my workshops sanding media than the sahara desert yet it is seldom my first go to tool. I probably would have tried to adapt a router which in the past has given me grief and taught me to religiously count fingers after the operation (of the tool not the doctor). Must re-think my practices. Thx, my fingers salute you.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Tanker Truck #2*
> 
> Starting to put the tank together, make the radiator,roof and play with the axles.
> 
> Yesterday I cut the tank in three for the partitions then glued up one side of each partition and quit for the day and spent the evening trying to come up with a way to make sure the partitions followed the shape of the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what it looks like all together but still only one side of each partition is glued.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's one way to solve the problem.
> 
> Made a jig to sand the edges of the partitions to get them to match the tank sides.
> 
> In the picture you see a round wood form nailed to the table it is about 1/4" bigger than the sanding drum I used. [I would have loved to uses a bigger drum but this is the one that fit 1/4 bigger than any hole saw I had on hand.]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tacked the form to the table then put a drill bit in the drill to center the drill to the form.
> Now the drum will be centered with the form.
> [I wish I would have had a large bearing for my flush router bit could have done the job in minutes]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next took a thin pencil and scribed a line around the partition to know where to cut with the band saw.
> Cut clear of the mark want the sander to do the main shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't like the way they do the axle on these plans, wanted a real axle not one that's part of the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just some put together shots not glued up yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks.


Sorry about not commenting on the looks of the build… I just get sick of repeating myself and there are just so many words to spell *great work*... even in my dictionary.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Tanker Truck #2*
> 
> Starting to put the tank together, make the radiator,roof and play with the axles.
> 
> Yesterday I cut the tank in three for the partitions then glued up one side of each partition and quit for the day and spent the evening trying to come up with a way to make sure the partitions followed the shape of the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what it looks like all together but still only one side of each partition is glued.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's one way to solve the problem.
> 
> Made a jig to sand the edges of the partitions to get them to match the tank sides.
> 
> In the picture you see a round wood form nailed to the table it is about 1/4" bigger than the sanding drum I used. [I would have loved to uses a bigger drum but this is the one that fit 1/4 bigger than any hole saw I had on hand.]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tacked the form to the table then put a drill bit in the drill to center the drill to the form.
> Now the drum will be centered with the form.
> [I wish I would have had a large bearing for my flush router bit could have done the job in minutes]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next took a thin pencil and scribed a line around the partition to know where to cut with the band saw.
> Cut clear of the mark want the sander to do the main shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't like the way they do the axle on these plans, wanted a real axle not one that's part of the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just some put together shots not glued up yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks.


Ducky I wanted to use the router but just couldn't come up with a idea that wouldn't have a chance or buggering up the project.
Years ago I would have had a large enough bearing but now no can do and not going to buy anything just for that.
Might have tried to tape some card board but probable wouldn't have stayed true to the shape.
I don't know why but it seems that the sander is my go to tool for just about every thing here lately.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Tanker Truck #2*
> 
> Starting to put the tank together, make the radiator,roof and play with the axles.
> 
> Yesterday I cut the tank in three for the partitions then glued up one side of each partition and quit for the day and spent the evening trying to come up with a way to make sure the partitions followed the shape of the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what it looks like all together but still only one side of each partition is glued.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's one way to solve the problem.
> 
> Made a jig to sand the edges of the partitions to get them to match the tank sides.
> 
> In the picture you see a round wood form nailed to the table it is about 1/4" bigger than the sanding drum I used. [I would have loved to uses a bigger drum but this is the one that fit 1/4 bigger than any hole saw I had on hand.]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tacked the form to the table then put a drill bit in the drill to center the drill to the form.
> Now the drum will be centered with the form.
> [I wish I would have had a large bearing for my flush router bit could have done the job in minutes]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next took a thin pencil and scribed a line around the partition to know where to cut with the band saw.
> Cut clear of the mark want the sander to do the main shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't like the way they do the axle on these plans, wanted a real axle not one that's part of the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just some put together shots not glued up yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks.


#4 no need to apologise and all is forgiven (after all, I assume you are an American as I didn't see at the Austro-Hungarian border in 1956). I prefer this (your) sanding solution and improvisation is more customisable than purchased items. Much safer, less prone to error and generates more toxic dust rather than those dreadful eye gouging chips.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Tanker Truck #2*
> 
> Starting to put the tank together, make the radiator,roof and play with the axles.
> 
> Yesterday I cut the tank in three for the partitions then glued up one side of each partition and quit for the day and spent the evening trying to come up with a way to make sure the partitions followed the shape of the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what it looks like all together but still only one side of each partition is glued.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's one way to solve the problem.
> 
> Made a jig to sand the edges of the partitions to get them to match the tank sides.
> 
> In the picture you see a round wood form nailed to the table it is about 1/4" bigger than the sanding drum I used. [I would have loved to uses a bigger drum but this is the one that fit 1/4 bigger than any hole saw I had on hand.]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tacked the form to the table then put a drill bit in the drill to center the drill to the form.
> Now the drum will be centered with the form.
> [I wish I would have had a large bearing for my flush router bit could have done the job in minutes]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next took a thin pencil and scribed a line around the partition to know where to cut with the band saw.
> Cut clear of the mark want the sander to do the main shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't like the way they do the axle on these plans, wanted a real axle not one that's part of the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just some put together shots not glued up yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks.


Alex #4

Komen jullie nog een keer langs om mijn schuurschijf te bekijken? De koffie staat klaar


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Tanker Truck #2*
> 
> Starting to put the tank together, make the radiator,roof and play with the axles.
> 
> Yesterday I cut the tank in three for the partitions then glued up one side of each partition and quit for the day and spent the evening trying to come up with a way to make sure the partitions followed the shape of the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what it looks like all together but still only one side of each partition is glued.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's one way to solve the problem.
> 
> Made a jig to sand the edges of the partitions to get them to match the tank sides.
> 
> In the picture you see a round wood form nailed to the table it is about 1/4" bigger than the sanding drum I used. [I would have loved to uses a bigger drum but this is the one that fit 1/4 bigger than any hole saw I had on hand.]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tacked the form to the table then put a drill bit in the drill to center the drill to the form.
> Now the drum will be centered with the form.
> [I wish I would have had a large bearing for my flush router bit could have done the job in minutes]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next took a thin pencil and scribed a line around the partition to know where to cut with the band saw.
> Cut clear of the mark want the sander to do the main shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't like the way they do the axle on these plans, wanted a real axle not one that's part of the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just some put together shots not glued up yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks.


My dear Dutchman,

Alleen als er een druppel jenever daarin


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Tanker Truck #2*
> 
> Starting to put the tank together, make the radiator,roof and play with the axles.
> 
> Yesterday I cut the tank in three for the partitions then glued up one side of each partition and quit for the day and spent the evening trying to come up with a way to make sure the partitions followed the shape of the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what it looks like all together but still only one side of each partition is glued.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's one way to solve the problem.
> 
> Made a jig to sand the edges of the partitions to get them to match the tank sides.
> 
> In the picture you see a round wood form nailed to the table it is about 1/4" bigger than the sanding drum I used. [I would have loved to uses a bigger drum but this is the one that fit 1/4 bigger than any hole saw I had on hand.]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tacked the form to the table then put a drill bit in the drill to center the drill to the form.
> Now the drum will be centered with the form.
> [I wish I would have had a large bearing for my flush router bit could have done the job in minutes]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next took a thin pencil and scribed a line around the partition to know where to cut with the band saw.
> Cut clear of the mark want the sander to do the main shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't like the way they do the axle on these plans, wanted a real axle not one that's part of the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just some put together shots not glued up yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks.





> My dear Dutchman,
> 
> Alleen als er een druppel jenever in zit
> 
> - LittleBlackDuck


Okay, that,s a deal. I like to hear when.


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Tanker Truck #2*
> 
> Starting to put the tank together, make the radiator,roof and play with the axles.
> 
> Yesterday I cut the tank in three for the partitions then glued up one side of each partition and quit for the day and spent the evening trying to come up with a way to make sure the partitions followed the shape of the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what it looks like all together but still only one side of each partition is glued.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's one way to solve the problem.
> 
> Made a jig to sand the edges of the partitions to get them to match the tank sides.
> 
> In the picture you see a round wood form nailed to the table it is about 1/4" bigger than the sanding drum I used. [I would have loved to uses a bigger drum but this is the one that fit 1/4 bigger than any hole saw I had on hand.]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tacked the form to the table then put a drill bit in the drill to center the drill to the form.
> Now the drum will be centered with the form.
> [I wish I would have had a large bearing for my flush router bit could have done the job in minutes]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next took a thin pencil and scribed a line around the partition to know where to cut with the band saw.
> Cut clear of the mark want the sander to do the main shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't like the way they do the axle on these plans, wanted a real axle not one that's part of the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just some put together shots not glued up yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks.


Looks pretty cool.

This thing…. looks like an old steamer trunk to me  
.
.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Tanker Truck #2*
> 
> Starting to put the tank together, make the radiator,roof and play with the axles.
> 
> Yesterday I cut the tank in three for the partitions then glued up one side of each partition and quit for the day and spent the evening trying to come up with a way to make sure the partitions followed the shape of the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what it looks like all together but still only one side of each partition is glued.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's one way to solve the problem.
> 
> Made a jig to sand the edges of the partitions to get them to match the tank sides.
> 
> In the picture you see a round wood form nailed to the table it is about 1/4" bigger than the sanding drum I used. [I would have loved to uses a bigger drum but this is the one that fit 1/4 bigger than any hole saw I had on hand.]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tacked the form to the table then put a drill bit in the drill to center the drill to the form.
> Now the drum will be centered with the form.
> [I wish I would have had a large bearing for my flush router bit could have done the job in minutes]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next took a thin pencil and scribed a line around the partition to know where to cut with the band saw.
> Cut clear of the mark want the sander to do the main shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't like the way they do the axle on these plans, wanted a real axle not one that's part of the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just some put together shots not glued up yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks.


Ik heb genoeg moeite met het Engels nu een goede modeler ik nodig om Nederlands te leren. LOL

I have no idea if this came out right but I try.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Tanker Truck #2*
> 
> Starting to put the tank together, make the radiator,roof and play with the axles.
> 
> Yesterday I cut the tank in three for the partitions then glued up one side of each partition and quit for the day and spent the evening trying to come up with a way to make sure the partitions followed the shape of the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what it looks like all together but still only one side of each partition is glued.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's one way to solve the problem.
> 
> Made a jig to sand the edges of the partitions to get them to match the tank sides.
> 
> In the picture you see a round wood form nailed to the table it is about 1/4" bigger than the sanding drum I used. [I would have loved to uses a bigger drum but this is the one that fit 1/4 bigger than any hole saw I had on hand.]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tacked the form to the table then put a drill bit in the drill to center the drill to the form.
> Now the drum will be centered with the form.
> [I wish I would have had a large bearing for my flush router bit could have done the job in minutes]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next took a thin pencil and scribed a line around the partition to know where to cut with the band saw.
> Cut clear of the mark want the sander to do the main shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't like the way they do the axle on these plans, wanted a real axle not one that's part of the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just some put together shots not glued up yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks.





> Ik heb genoeg moeite met het Engels nu een goede modeler ik nodig om Nederlands te leren. LOL
> 
> I have no idea if this came out right but I try.
> 
> - htl


I you well understand.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Tanker Truck #2*
> 
> Starting to put the tank together, make the radiator,roof and play with the axles.
> 
> Yesterday I cut the tank in three for the partitions then glued up one side of each partition and quit for the day and spent the evening trying to come up with a way to make sure the partitions followed the shape of the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what it looks like all together but still only one side of each partition is glued.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's one way to solve the problem.
> 
> Made a jig to sand the edges of the partitions to get them to match the tank sides.
> 
> In the picture you see a round wood form nailed to the table it is about 1/4" bigger than the sanding drum I used. [I would have loved to uses a bigger drum but this is the one that fit 1/4 bigger than any hole saw I had on hand.]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tacked the form to the table then put a drill bit in the drill to center the drill to the form.
> Now the drum will be centered with the form.
> [I wish I would have had a large bearing for my flush router bit could have done the job in minutes]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next took a thin pencil and scribed a line around the partition to know where to cut with the band saw.
> Cut clear of the mark want the sander to do the main shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't like the way they do the axle on these plans, wanted a real axle not one that's part of the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just some put together shots not glued up yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks.


Joe I made a steam engine now I'm on a steam trunk truck.
Say that tree times really fast if you can.

And come o think of it, it weighs about that of a steamer trunk.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Tanker Truck #2*
> 
> Starting to put the tank together, make the radiator,roof and play with the axles.
> 
> Yesterday I cut the tank in three for the partitions then glued up one side of each partition and quit for the day and spent the evening trying to come up with a way to make sure the partitions followed the shape of the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what it looks like all together but still only one side of each partition is glued.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's one way to solve the problem.
> 
> Made a jig to sand the edges of the partitions to get them to match the tank sides.
> 
> In the picture you see a round wood form nailed to the table it is about 1/4" bigger than the sanding drum I used. [I would have loved to uses a bigger drum but this is the one that fit 1/4 bigger than any hole saw I had on hand.]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tacked the form to the table then put a drill bit in the drill to center the drill to the form.
> Now the drum will be centered with the form.
> [I wish I would have had a large bearing for my flush router bit could have done the job in minutes]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next took a thin pencil and scribed a line around the partition to know where to cut with the band saw.
> Cut clear of the mark want the sander to do the main shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't like the way they do the axle on these plans, wanted a real axle not one that's part of the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just some put together shots not glued up yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks.





> Okay, that,s a deal. I like to hear when.
> 
> - Dutchy


Wanneer u uw handtekening te wijzigen in " Mijn Nederlands is slecht, maar hoe is uw Engels ?"

(My appologies to htl and the the innocent readers of this post… however, it does bolster the stats.)


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Tanker Truck #2*
> 
> Starting to put the tank together, make the radiator,roof and play with the axles.
> 
> Yesterday I cut the tank in three for the partitions then glued up one side of each partition and quit for the day and spent the evening trying to come up with a way to make sure the partitions followed the shape of the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what it looks like all together but still only one side of each partition is glued.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's one way to solve the problem.
> 
> Made a jig to sand the edges of the partitions to get them to match the tank sides.
> 
> In the picture you see a round wood form nailed to the table it is about 1/4" bigger than the sanding drum I used. [I would have loved to uses a bigger drum but this is the one that fit 1/4 bigger than any hole saw I had on hand.]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tacked the form to the table then put a drill bit in the drill to center the drill to the form.
> Now the drum will be centered with the form.
> [I wish I would have had a large bearing for my flush router bit could have done the job in minutes]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next took a thin pencil and scribed a line around the partition to know where to cut with the band saw.
> Cut clear of the mark want the sander to do the main shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't like the way they do the axle on these plans, wanted a real axle not one that's part of the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just some put together shots not glued up yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks.


Ducky soms vraag ik me af over jou

LOL #4


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Tanker Truck #2*
> 
> Starting to put the tank together, make the radiator,roof and play with the axles.
> 
> Yesterday I cut the tank in three for the partitions then glued up one side of each partition and quit for the day and spent the evening trying to come up with a way to make sure the partitions followed the shape of the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what it looks like all together but still only one side of each partition is glued.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's one way to solve the problem.
> 
> Made a jig to sand the edges of the partitions to get them to match the tank sides.
> 
> In the picture you see a round wood form nailed to the table it is about 1/4" bigger than the sanding drum I used. [I would have loved to uses a bigger drum but this is the one that fit 1/4 bigger than any hole saw I had on hand.]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tacked the form to the table then put a drill bit in the drill to center the drill to the form.
> Now the drum will be centered with the form.
> [I wish I would have had a large bearing for my flush router bit could have done the job in minutes]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next took a thin pencil and scribed a line around the partition to know where to cut with the band saw.
> Cut clear of the mark want the sander to do the main shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't like the way they do the axle on these plans, wanted a real axle not one that's part of the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just some put together shots not glued up yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all folks.


*nellA yrraB*, Just had a *Flash back *egged on by JoeinGA's post after seeing some other vehicle blog .


> .... old steamer trunk…
> 
> - JoeinGa


I vaguely remember a suggestion of leather straps on a trunk by one of your readers. I looked for it in your *Lincoln* posts but couldn't find it. Nevertheless, I'm not as inventive as you and would have tried practically everything else but think of using this concept for the trunk using walnut "veneers" to emulate the straps.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Tanker Truck #2*
> 
> Starting to put the tank together, make the radiator,roof and play with the axles.
> 
> Yesterday I cut the tank in three for the partitions then glued up one side of each partition and quit for the day and spent the evening trying to come up with a way to make sure the partitions followed the shape of the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what it looks like all together but still only one side of each partition is glued.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's one way to solve the problem.
> 
> Made a jig to sand the edges of the partitions to get them to match the tank sides.
> 
> In the picture you see a round wood form nailed to the table it is about 1/4" bigger than the sanding drum I used. [I would have loved to uses a bigger drum but this is the one that fit 1/4 bigger than any hole saw I had on hand.]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tacked the form to the table then put a drill bit in the drill to center the drill to the form.
> Now the drum will be centered with the form.
> [I wish I would have had a large bearing for my flush router bit could have done the job in minutes]
> 
> 
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> 
> Next took a thin pencil and scribed a line around the partition to know where to cut with the band saw.
> Cut clear of the mark want the sander to do the main shaping.
> 
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> 
> Didn't like the way they do the axle on these plans, wanted a real axle not one that's part of the frame.
> 
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> Just some put together shots not glued up yet.
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> That's all folks.


Ducky I was thinking the same thing but some don't mind other materials on their builds and I have to admit it would really set it off.

I was looking at some YouTube videos a couple a days ago, have no idea where I was but they were making some really cool trucks using some Diy metal frames and covering the gas tanks with pop can aluminum.
Steering that worked, shocks the whole 9 yards.
Really had my mind cooking on some of the cool things they were doing.

Using metals and plastics for some of the small parts would really help but then the question comes up how much metal is ok.
There's a hundred ways to do any thing just need to figure out how far is acceptable for your type of build I guess.
There's no right or wrong here just a different and I must say cool way of doing things.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Tanker Truck #2*
> 
> Starting to put the tank together, make the radiator,roof and play with the axles.
> 
> Yesterday I cut the tank in three for the partitions then glued up one side of each partition and quit for the day and spent the evening trying to come up with a way to make sure the partitions followed the shape of the tank.
> 
> 
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> 
> Here's what it looks like all together but still only one side of each partition is glued.
> 
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> 
> 
> So here's one way to solve the problem.
> 
> Made a jig to sand the edges of the partitions to get them to match the tank sides.
> 
> In the picture you see a round wood form nailed to the table it is about 1/4" bigger than the sanding drum I used. [I would have loved to uses a bigger drum but this is the one that fit 1/4 bigger than any hole saw I had on hand.]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tacked the form to the table then put a drill bit in the drill to center the drill to the form.
> Now the drum will be centered with the form.
> [I wish I would have had a large bearing for my flush router bit could have done the job in minutes]
> 
> 
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> 
> Next took a thin pencil and scribed a line around the partition to know where to cut with the band saw.
> Cut clear of the mark want the sander to do the main shaping.
> 
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> 
> Didn't like the way they do the axle on these plans, wanted a real axle not one that's part of the frame.
> 
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> Just some put together shots not glued up yet.
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> That's all folks.


htl #1. In my humble opinion T&J models are made of timber and timber and occasionally the odd bit of timber. I struggle even thinking of stain or black paint for the tyres but I definitely draw the line there. The thought of plastic and metal just doesn't sit right with me. I'll leave the welding to the missus and her girl friends.


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## htl

*Tanker Truck #4*

Just some shots of how it's coming along.
Here's how the radiator was put together.































































that's all for now folks.


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## JulianLech

htl said:


> *Tanker Truck #4*
> 
> Just some shots of how it's coming along.
> Here's how the radiator was put together.
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> that's all for now folks.


All the details look great.


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## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Tanker Truck #4*
> 
> Just some shots of how it's coming along.
> Here's how the radiator was put together.
> 
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> that's all for now folks.


Hey! I think you are trying to scam us!

What happened to "Tanker Truck *#3* ???

I feel so cheated !


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## htl

htl said:


> *Tanker Truck #4*
> 
> Just some shots of how it's coming along.
> Here's how the radiator was put together.
> 
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> that's all for now folks.


The numbers are more to keep track how many days I've got into this project.
Put in some part days so didn't post but I'm trying to make progress.
Hey why you calling me a scammer buddy?????
You were the one on the front page of the news over some evil deed me thinks. lol
Cricket knows, cricket know all the dirt!!!


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Tanker Truck #4*
> 
> Just some shots of how it's coming along.
> Here's how the radiator was put together.
> 
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> that's all for now folks.


Coming along fine and looking good. Looking to seeing the finished product.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Tanker Truck #4*
> 
> Just some shots of how it's coming along.
> Here's how the radiator was put together.
> 
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> that's all for now folks.


Won't be long now.


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Tanker Truck #4*
> 
> Just some shots of how it's coming along.
> Here's how the radiator was put together.
> 
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> that's all for now folks.


Amost done.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Tanker Truck #4*
> 
> Just some shots of how it's coming along.
> Here's how the radiator was put together.
> 
> 
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> 
> that's all for now folks.


Thank you Bruce for sharing your "how to"....much appreciated, sir…


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## htl

htl said:


> *Tanker Truck #4*
> 
> Just some shots of how it's coming along.
> Here's how the radiator was put together.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> that's all for now folks.


I went and posted the project as done so here it is.
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/251330

And thanks all for your continued support.


----------



## htl

*Tires for the tanker truck 1&2*

The tires will be something like these but much simpler treads.
They will be much thinner to fit the truck.

http://lumberjocks.com/htl/blog/80818









Going to experiment with some cheap new hole saws and see if I can make some truck tires for my latest project.
This is an 18 hole saw set for $16 so way cheap and light duty.
From Harbor Freight.
The main thing I'm after here is the large choice of hole sizes for making tires.
3/4 In - 5 In Carbon Steel Hole Saw Set 18 Pc

When I showed the truck in my tanker truck tread I had stolen the wheels off my 1932 Lincoln kb project so I'm in need of some truck wheels.
When i made the Lincoln I built some spoke wheels for the first time, made 8 of them and the first two didn't come out just right so they can be used on the truck
but would really like some wheels that look like they came with the truck. lol









I'm wanting to make some 2 7/8 tires so put the 3" hole saw in my drill press [Shop Smith] ,
and on the lowest speed setting tried to drill a wheel well my saw is way to fast and just didn't like the feel of it so went and using my 18v Ryobi and drilled out 8 3/4 thick oak blanks for the tires in no time.

*Note to self-* plain board before drilling out the holes so the wood will stay the same thickness.

So that tells me the cheap thin metal isn't putting that much of a load on the power drill, the drill did get hot but don't need to do them all at once any way..

OK so got the main tires drilled out.
It really did a pretty smooth job for a 3" hole saw.










I'm going to be using a hole pattern with 10 points, this will give us 5 lag bolt holes and 5 spokes.
Got this sheet from Dutchy and it's been really handy for my spoke and lag drilling.









I could drill out some centers but I've got a bunch a 1 1/2 tires i bought and will never use plus they have a really nice shape to them so.










Now the pattern need to be put on the wheel so glued the pattern on a thin chunk a wood and drilled out the center now with the drill bit in place you can hold the tire and pattern and mark them.










Now we need a jig to hold the tire while we drill out for the spokes.
As you can see in the picture above the hole is half on the tire so need to use a 3/8 forstner drill bit so it drills it and doesn't slide off.
To make this much easier build a jig with a dowel that fits tight in the tire and clamp the jig down so the dowel stays put and the drill always hits the same spot on the tire..
I just happened to have the old pattern I used to line up the drill bit and that's what you see in the second picture.
Now the tire can turn to drill every other mark but it will always hit the same place on the tire.




























Now all the spokes are drilled need to make a better mark for the lag bolt hole and I hit it with a all to be sure the small drill bit goes where it should.









Now we need to drill out the center of the 3' tire.

I used a wore out 1 1/2" hole saw and when I was done with the first one I couldn't believe it but the center fit just right.
The last time I made tires I drilled out the centers bigger and had to sand them down to fit in.


















Shaped the inside edges then sanded and buffed the parts.




























Then glue up the parts.

*Be sure to hold them down till the glue takes hold they need to be straight with the rims.*

Have the centers that will be the front tires flush with the front of the tire and the back rims will be glued toward the back of the tire.
Once the tires are set used the sanding jig to sand them round and to a uniform size.



























I have my sander hooked up to the cyclone to keep the dust down and the fan to keep the heat down it's getting hot up in our neck of the woods.









Now used the table saw with a skill saw blade [very thin] to cut three grooves and had planned to cut cross ways and make treads but this oak came from a platform bed I built 35 years ago and the wood was way old then so seems to be chipping quite badly so not going with the full treads this time.


















Now glue in the tooth picks for the lag bolts and call it a day way to hot to go on today.




























Will show the finished pictures here tomorrow, and thanks for looking in.


----------



## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Tires for the tanker truck 1&2*
> 
> The tires will be something like these but much simpler treads.
> They will be much thinner to fit the truck.
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/htl/blog/80818
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to experiment with some cheap new hole saws and see if I can make some truck tires for my latest project.
> This is an 18 hole saw set for $16 so way cheap and light duty.
> From Harbor Freight.
> The main thing I'm after here is the large choice of hole sizes for making tires.
> 3/4 In - 5 In Carbon Steel Hole Saw Set 18 Pc
> 
> When I showed the truck in my tanker truck tread I had stolen the wheels off my 1932 Lincoln kb project so I'm in need of some truck wheels.
> When i made the Lincoln I built some spoke wheels for the first time, made 8 of them and the first two didn't come out just right so they can be used on the truck
> but would really like some wheels that look like they came with the truck. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm wanting to make some 2 7/8 tires so put the 3" hole saw in my drill press [Shop Smith] ,
> and on the lowest speed setting tried to drill a wheel well my saw is way to fast and just didn't like the feel of it so went and using my 18v Ryobi and drilled out 8 3/4 thick oak blanks for the tires in no time.
> 
> *Note to self-* plain board before drilling out the holes so the wood will stay the same thickness.
> 
> So that tells me the cheap thin metal isn't putting that much of a load on the power drill, the drill did get hot but don't need to do them all at once any way..
> 
> OK so got the main tires drilled out.
> It really did a pretty smooth job for a 3" hole saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to be using a hole pattern with 10 points, this will give us 5 lag bolt holes and 5 spokes.
> Got this sheet from Dutchy and it's been really handy for my spoke and lag drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could drill out some centers but I've got a bunch a 1 1/2 tires i bought and will never use plus they have a really nice shape to them so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the pattern need to be put on the wheel so glued the pattern on a thin chunk a wood and drilled out the center now with the drill bit in place you can hold the tire and pattern and mark them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need a jig to hold the tire while we drill out for the spokes.
> As you can see in the picture above the hole is half on the tire so need to use a 3/8 forstner drill bit so it drills it and doesn't slide off.
> To make this much easier build a jig with a dowel that fits tight in the tire and clamp the jig down so the dowel stays put and the drill always hits the same spot on the tire..
> I just happened to have the old pattern I used to line up the drill bit and that's what you see in the second picture.
> Now the tire can turn to drill every other mark but it will always hit the same place on the tire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now all the spokes are drilled need to make a better mark for the lag bolt hole and I hit it with a all to be sure the small drill bit goes where it should.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to drill out the center of the 3' tire.
> 
> I used a wore out 1 1/2" hole saw and when I was done with the first one I couldn't believe it but the center fit just right.
> The last time I made tires I drilled out the centers bigger and had to sand them down to fit in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped the inside edges then sanded and buffed the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then glue up the parts.
> 
> *Be sure to hold them down till the glue takes hold they need to be straight with the rims.*
> 
> Have the centers that will be the front tires flush with the front of the tire and the back rims will be glued toward the back of the tire.
> Once the tires are set used the sanding jig to sand them round and to a uniform size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have my sander hooked up to the cyclone to keep the dust down and the fan to keep the heat down it's getting hot up in our neck of the woods.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now used the table saw with a skill saw blade [very thin] to cut three grooves and had planned to cut cross ways and make treads but this oak came from a platform bed I built 35 years ago and the wood was way old then so seems to be chipping quite badly so not going with the full treads this time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now glue in the tooth picks for the lag bolts and call it a day way to hot to go on today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will show the finished pictures here tomorrow, and thanks for looking in.


GREAT! New ideas for my wheels too.

I also use toothpicks for a lot of little things


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Tires for the tanker truck 1&2*
> 
> The tires will be something like these but much simpler treads.
> They will be much thinner to fit the truck.
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/htl/blog/80818
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to experiment with some cheap new hole saws and see if I can make some truck tires for my latest project.
> This is an 18 hole saw set for $16 so way cheap and light duty.
> From Harbor Freight.
> The main thing I'm after here is the large choice of hole sizes for making tires.
> 3/4 In - 5 In Carbon Steel Hole Saw Set 18 Pc
> 
> When I showed the truck in my tanker truck tread I had stolen the wheels off my 1932 Lincoln kb project so I'm in need of some truck wheels.
> When i made the Lincoln I built some spoke wheels for the first time, made 8 of them and the first two didn't come out just right so they can be used on the truck
> but would really like some wheels that look like they came with the truck. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm wanting to make some 2 7/8 tires so put the 3" hole saw in my drill press [Shop Smith] ,
> and on the lowest speed setting tried to drill a wheel well my saw is way to fast and just didn't like the feel of it so went and using my 18v Ryobi and drilled out 8 3/4 thick oak blanks for the tires in no time.
> 
> *Note to self-* plain board before drilling out the holes so the wood will stay the same thickness.
> 
> So that tells me the cheap thin metal isn't putting that much of a load on the power drill, the drill did get hot but don't need to do them all at once any way..
> 
> OK so got the main tires drilled out.
> It really did a pretty smooth job for a 3" hole saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to be using a hole pattern with 10 points, this will give us 5 lag bolt holes and 5 spokes.
> Got this sheet from Dutchy and it's been really handy for my spoke and lag drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could drill out some centers but I've got a bunch a 1 1/2 tires i bought and will never use plus they have a really nice shape to them so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the pattern need to be put on the wheel so glued the pattern on a thin chunk a wood and drilled out the center now with the drill bit in place you can hold the tire and pattern and mark them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need a jig to hold the tire while we drill out for the spokes.
> As you can see in the picture above the hole is half on the tire so need to use a 3/8 forstner drill bit so it drills it and doesn't slide off.
> To make this much easier build a jig with a dowel that fits tight in the tire and clamp the jig down so the dowel stays put and the drill always hits the same spot on the tire..
> I just happened to have the old pattern I used to line up the drill bit and that's what you see in the second picture.
> Now the tire can turn to drill every other mark but it will always hit the same place on the tire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now all the spokes are drilled need to make a better mark for the lag bolt hole and I hit it with a all to be sure the small drill bit goes where it should.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to drill out the center of the 3' tire.
> 
> I used a wore out 1 1/2" hole saw and when I was done with the first one I couldn't believe it but the center fit just right.
> The last time I made tires I drilled out the centers bigger and had to sand them down to fit in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped the inside edges then sanded and buffed the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then glue up the parts.
> 
> *Be sure to hold them down till the glue takes hold they need to be straight with the rims.*
> 
> Have the centers that will be the front tires flush with the front of the tire and the back rims will be glued toward the back of the tire.
> Once the tires are set used the sanding jig to sand them round and to a uniform size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have my sander hooked up to the cyclone to keep the dust down and the fan to keep the heat down it's getting hot up in our neck of the woods.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now used the table saw with a skill saw blade [very thin] to cut three grooves and had planned to cut cross ways and make treads but this oak came from a platform bed I built 35 years ago and the wood was way old then so seems to be chipping quite badly so not going with the full treads this time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now glue in the tooth picks for the lag bolts and call it a day way to hot to go on today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will show the finished pictures here tomorrow, and thanks for looking in.


ralbuck I asked my wife to get me some tooth picks two years ago for my doll houses and she brought home 5 boxes and I'm finally used 3 of them up. lol


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Tires for the tanker truck 1&2*
> 
> The tires will be something like these but much simpler treads.
> They will be much thinner to fit the truck.
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/htl/blog/80818
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to experiment with some cheap new hole saws and see if I can make some truck tires for my latest project.
> This is an 18 hole saw set for $16 so way cheap and light duty.
> From Harbor Freight.
> The main thing I'm after here is the large choice of hole sizes for making tires.
> 3/4 In - 5 In Carbon Steel Hole Saw Set 18 Pc
> 
> When I showed the truck in my tanker truck tread I had stolen the wheels off my 1932 Lincoln kb project so I'm in need of some truck wheels.
> When i made the Lincoln I built some spoke wheels for the first time, made 8 of them and the first two didn't come out just right so they can be used on the truck
> but would really like some wheels that look like they came with the truck. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm wanting to make some 2 7/8 tires so put the 3" hole saw in my drill press [Shop Smith] ,
> and on the lowest speed setting tried to drill a wheel well my saw is way to fast and just didn't like the feel of it so went and using my 18v Ryobi and drilled out 8 3/4 thick oak blanks for the tires in no time.
> 
> *Note to self-* plain board before drilling out the holes so the wood will stay the same thickness.
> 
> So that tells me the cheap thin metal isn't putting that much of a load on the power drill, the drill did get hot but don't need to do them all at once any way..
> 
> OK so got the main tires drilled out.
> It really did a pretty smooth job for a 3" hole saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to be using a hole pattern with 10 points, this will give us 5 lag bolt holes and 5 spokes.
> Got this sheet from Dutchy and it's been really handy for my spoke and lag drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could drill out some centers but I've got a bunch a 1 1/2 tires i bought and will never use plus they have a really nice shape to them so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the pattern need to be put on the wheel so glued the pattern on a thin chunk a wood and drilled out the center now with the drill bit in place you can hold the tire and pattern and mark them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need a jig to hold the tire while we drill out for the spokes.
> As you can see in the picture above the hole is half on the tire so need to use a 3/8 forstner drill bit so it drills it and doesn't slide off.
> To make this much easier build a jig with a dowel that fits tight in the tire and clamp the jig down so the dowel stays put and the drill always hits the same spot on the tire..
> I just happened to have the old pattern I used to line up the drill bit and that's what you see in the second picture.
> Now the tire can turn to drill every other mark but it will always hit the same place on the tire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now all the spokes are drilled need to make a better mark for the lag bolt hole and I hit it with a all to be sure the small drill bit goes where it should.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to drill out the center of the 3' tire.
> 
> I used a wore out 1 1/2" hole saw and when I was done with the first one I couldn't believe it but the center fit just right.
> The last time I made tires I drilled out the centers bigger and had to sand them down to fit in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped the inside edges then sanded and buffed the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then glue up the parts.
> 
> *Be sure to hold them down till the glue takes hold they need to be straight with the rims.*
> 
> Have the centers that will be the front tires flush with the front of the tire and the back rims will be glued toward the back of the tire.
> Once the tires are set used the sanding jig to sand them round and to a uniform size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have my sander hooked up to the cyclone to keep the dust down and the fan to keep the heat down it's getting hot up in our neck of the woods.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now used the table saw with a skill saw blade [very thin] to cut three grooves and had planned to cut cross ways and make treads but this oak came from a platform bed I built 35 years ago and the wood was way old then so seems to be chipping quite badly so not going with the full treads this time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now glue in the tooth picks for the lag bolts and call it a day way to hot to go on today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will show the finished pictures here tomorrow, and thanks for looking in.


No complaints here… looks good to me so far !


----------



## hunter71

htl said:


> *Tires for the tanker truck 1&2*
> 
> The tires will be something like these but much simpler treads.
> They will be much thinner to fit the truck.
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/htl/blog/80818
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to experiment with some cheap new hole saws and see if I can make some truck tires for my latest project.
> This is an 18 hole saw set for $16 so way cheap and light duty.
> From Harbor Freight.
> The main thing I'm after here is the large choice of hole sizes for making tires.
> 3/4 In - 5 In Carbon Steel Hole Saw Set 18 Pc
> 
> When I showed the truck in my tanker truck tread I had stolen the wheels off my 1932 Lincoln kb project so I'm in need of some truck wheels.
> When i made the Lincoln I built some spoke wheels for the first time, made 8 of them and the first two didn't come out just right so they can be used on the truck
> but would really like some wheels that look like they came with the truck. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm wanting to make some 2 7/8 tires so put the 3" hole saw in my drill press [Shop Smith] ,
> and on the lowest speed setting tried to drill a wheel well my saw is way to fast and just didn't like the feel of it so went and using my 18v Ryobi and drilled out 8 3/4 thick oak blanks for the tires in no time.
> 
> *Note to self-* plain board before drilling out the holes so the wood will stay the same thickness.
> 
> So that tells me the cheap thin metal isn't putting that much of a load on the power drill, the drill did get hot but don't need to do them all at once any way..
> 
> OK so got the main tires drilled out.
> It really did a pretty smooth job for a 3" hole saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to be using a hole pattern with 10 points, this will give us 5 lag bolt holes and 5 spokes.
> Got this sheet from Dutchy and it's been really handy for my spoke and lag drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could drill out some centers but I've got a bunch a 1 1/2 tires i bought and will never use plus they have a really nice shape to them so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the pattern need to be put on the wheel so glued the pattern on a thin chunk a wood and drilled out the center now with the drill bit in place you can hold the tire and pattern and mark them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need a jig to hold the tire while we drill out for the spokes.
> As you can see in the picture above the hole is half on the tire so need to use a 3/8 forstner drill bit so it drills it and doesn't slide off.
> To make this much easier build a jig with a dowel that fits tight in the tire and clamp the jig down so the dowel stays put and the drill always hits the same spot on the tire..
> I just happened to have the old pattern I used to line up the drill bit and that's what you see in the second picture.
> Now the tire can turn to drill every other mark but it will always hit the same place on the tire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now all the spokes are drilled need to make a better mark for the lag bolt hole and I hit it with a all to be sure the small drill bit goes where it should.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to drill out the center of the 3' tire.
> 
> I used a wore out 1 1/2" hole saw and when I was done with the first one I couldn't believe it but the center fit just right.
> The last time I made tires I drilled out the centers bigger and had to sand them down to fit in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped the inside edges then sanded and buffed the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then glue up the parts.
> 
> *Be sure to hold them down till the glue takes hold they need to be straight with the rims.*
> 
> Have the centers that will be the front tires flush with the front of the tire and the back rims will be glued toward the back of the tire.
> Once the tires are set used the sanding jig to sand them round and to a uniform size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have my sander hooked up to the cyclone to keep the dust down and the fan to keep the heat down it's getting hot up in our neck of the woods.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now used the table saw with a skill saw blade [very thin] to cut three grooves and had planned to cut cross ways and make treads but this oak came from a platform bed I built 35 years ago and the wood was way old then so seems to be chipping quite badly so not going with the full treads this time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now glue in the tooth picks for the lag bolts and call it a day way to hot to go on today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will show the finished pictures here tomorrow, and thanks for looking in.


Thanks for sharing your ideas. They look very good, great in fact.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Tires for the tanker truck 1&2*
> 
> The tires will be something like these but much simpler treads.
> They will be much thinner to fit the truck.
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/htl/blog/80818
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to experiment with some cheap new hole saws and see if I can make some truck tires for my latest project.
> This is an 18 hole saw set for $16 so way cheap and light duty.
> From Harbor Freight.
> The main thing I'm after here is the large choice of hole sizes for making tires.
> 3/4 In - 5 In Carbon Steel Hole Saw Set 18 Pc
> 
> When I showed the truck in my tanker truck tread I had stolen the wheels off my 1932 Lincoln kb project so I'm in need of some truck wheels.
> When i made the Lincoln I built some spoke wheels for the first time, made 8 of them and the first two didn't come out just right so they can be used on the truck
> but would really like some wheels that look like they came with the truck. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm wanting to make some 2 7/8 tires so put the 3" hole saw in my drill press [Shop Smith] ,
> and on the lowest speed setting tried to drill a wheel well my saw is way to fast and just didn't like the feel of it so went and using my 18v Ryobi and drilled out 8 3/4 thick oak blanks for the tires in no time.
> 
> *Note to self-* plain board before drilling out the holes so the wood will stay the same thickness.
> 
> So that tells me the cheap thin metal isn't putting that much of a load on the power drill, the drill did get hot but don't need to do them all at once any way..
> 
> OK so got the main tires drilled out.
> It really did a pretty smooth job for a 3" hole saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to be using a hole pattern with 10 points, this will give us 5 lag bolt holes and 5 spokes.
> Got this sheet from Dutchy and it's been really handy for my spoke and lag drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could drill out some centers but I've got a bunch a 1 1/2 tires i bought and will never use plus they have a really nice shape to them so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the pattern need to be put on the wheel so glued the pattern on a thin chunk a wood and drilled out the center now with the drill bit in place you can hold the tire and pattern and mark them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need a jig to hold the tire while we drill out for the spokes.
> As you can see in the picture above the hole is half on the tire so need to use a 3/8 forstner drill bit so it drills it and doesn't slide off.
> To make this much easier build a jig with a dowel that fits tight in the tire and clamp the jig down so the dowel stays put and the drill always hits the same spot on the tire..
> I just happened to have the old pattern I used to line up the drill bit and that's what you see in the second picture.
> Now the tire can turn to drill every other mark but it will always hit the same place on the tire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now all the spokes are drilled need to make a better mark for the lag bolt hole and I hit it with a all to be sure the small drill bit goes where it should.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to drill out the center of the 3' tire.
> 
> I used a wore out 1 1/2" hole saw and when I was done with the first one I couldn't believe it but the center fit just right.
> The last time I made tires I drilled out the centers bigger and had to sand them down to fit in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped the inside edges then sanded and buffed the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then glue up the parts.
> 
> *Be sure to hold them down till the glue takes hold they need to be straight with the rims.*
> 
> Have the centers that will be the front tires flush with the front of the tire and the back rims will be glued toward the back of the tire.
> Once the tires are set used the sanding jig to sand them round and to a uniform size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have my sander hooked up to the cyclone to keep the dust down and the fan to keep the heat down it's getting hot up in our neck of the woods.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now used the table saw with a skill saw blade [very thin] to cut three grooves and had planned to cut cross ways and make treads but this oak came from a platform bed I built 35 years ago and the wood was way old then so seems to be chipping quite badly so not going with the full treads this time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now glue in the tooth picks for the lag bolts and call it a day way to hot to go on today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will show the finished pictures here tomorrow, and thanks for looking in.


Hunter71
I like to say there are a hundred way to do any thing.
This is what i used at this time with what tools I had on hand.

By doing this blog I can look back and remember how and when I did some thing, I have a very bad memory. lol


----------



## bruce317

htl said:


> *Tires for the tanker truck 1&2*
> 
> The tires will be something like these but much simpler treads.
> They will be much thinner to fit the truck.
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/htl/blog/80818
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to experiment with some cheap new hole saws and see if I can make some truck tires for my latest project.
> This is an 18 hole saw set for $16 so way cheap and light duty.
> From Harbor Freight.
> The main thing I'm after here is the large choice of hole sizes for making tires.
> 3/4 In - 5 In Carbon Steel Hole Saw Set 18 Pc
> 
> When I showed the truck in my tanker truck tread I had stolen the wheels off my 1932 Lincoln kb project so I'm in need of some truck wheels.
> When i made the Lincoln I built some spoke wheels for the first time, made 8 of them and the first two didn't come out just right so they can be used on the truck
> but would really like some wheels that look like they came with the truck. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm wanting to make some 2 7/8 tires so put the 3" hole saw in my drill press [Shop Smith] ,
> and on the lowest speed setting tried to drill a wheel well my saw is way to fast and just didn't like the feel of it so went and using my 18v Ryobi and drilled out 8 3/4 thick oak blanks for the tires in no time.
> 
> *Note to self-* plain board before drilling out the holes so the wood will stay the same thickness.
> 
> So that tells me the cheap thin metal isn't putting that much of a load on the power drill, the drill did get hot but don't need to do them all at once any way..
> 
> OK so got the main tires drilled out.
> It really did a pretty smooth job for a 3" hole saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to be using a hole pattern with 10 points, this will give us 5 lag bolt holes and 5 spokes.
> Got this sheet from Dutchy and it's been really handy for my spoke and lag drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could drill out some centers but I've got a bunch a 1 1/2 tires i bought and will never use plus they have a really nice shape to them so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the pattern need to be put on the wheel so glued the pattern on a thin chunk a wood and drilled out the center now with the drill bit in place you can hold the tire and pattern and mark them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need a jig to hold the tire while we drill out for the spokes.
> As you can see in the picture above the hole is half on the tire so need to use a 3/8 forstner drill bit so it drills it and doesn't slide off.
> To make this much easier build a jig with a dowel that fits tight in the tire and clamp the jig down so the dowel stays put and the drill always hits the same spot on the tire..
> I just happened to have the old pattern I used to line up the drill bit and that's what you see in the second picture.
> Now the tire can turn to drill every other mark but it will always hit the same place on the tire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now all the spokes are drilled need to make a better mark for the lag bolt hole and I hit it with a all to be sure the small drill bit goes where it should.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to drill out the center of the 3' tire.
> 
> I used a wore out 1 1/2" hole saw and when I was done with the first one I couldn't believe it but the center fit just right.
> The last time I made tires I drilled out the centers bigger and had to sand them down to fit in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped the inside edges then sanded and buffed the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then glue up the parts.
> 
> *Be sure to hold them down till the glue takes hold they need to be straight with the rims.*
> 
> Have the centers that will be the front tires flush with the front of the tire and the back rims will be glued toward the back of the tire.
> Once the tires are set used the sanding jig to sand them round and to a uniform size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have my sander hooked up to the cyclone to keep the dust down and the fan to keep the heat down it's getting hot up in our neck of the woods.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now used the table saw with a skill saw blade [very thin] to cut three grooves and had planned to cut cross ways and make treads but this oak came from a platform bed I built 35 years ago and the wood was way old then so seems to be chipping quite badly so not going with the full treads this time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now glue in the tooth picks for the lag bolts and call it a day way to hot to go on today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will show the finished pictures here tomorrow, and thanks for looking in.


Bruce, Another fine piece of work you done. Looking forward to the next installment, of this. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## bj383ss

htl said:


> *Tires for the tanker truck 1&2*
> 
> The tires will be something like these but much simpler treads.
> They will be much thinner to fit the truck.
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/htl/blog/80818
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to experiment with some cheap new hole saws and see if I can make some truck tires for my latest project.
> This is an 18 hole saw set for $16 so way cheap and light duty.
> From Harbor Freight.
> The main thing I'm after here is the large choice of hole sizes for making tires.
> 3/4 In - 5 In Carbon Steel Hole Saw Set 18 Pc
> 
> When I showed the truck in my tanker truck tread I had stolen the wheels off my 1932 Lincoln kb project so I'm in need of some truck wheels.
> When i made the Lincoln I built some spoke wheels for the first time, made 8 of them and the first two didn't come out just right so they can be used on the truck
> but would really like some wheels that look like they came with the truck. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm wanting to make some 2 7/8 tires so put the 3" hole saw in my drill press [Shop Smith] ,
> and on the lowest speed setting tried to drill a wheel well my saw is way to fast and just didn't like the feel of it so went and using my 18v Ryobi and drilled out 8 3/4 thick oak blanks for the tires in no time.
> 
> *Note to self-* plain board before drilling out the holes so the wood will stay the same thickness.
> 
> So that tells me the cheap thin metal isn't putting that much of a load on the power drill, the drill did get hot but don't need to do them all at once any way..
> 
> OK so got the main tires drilled out.
> It really did a pretty smooth job for a 3" hole saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to be using a hole pattern with 10 points, this will give us 5 lag bolt holes and 5 spokes.
> Got this sheet from Dutchy and it's been really handy for my spoke and lag drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could drill out some centers but I've got a bunch a 1 1/2 tires i bought and will never use plus they have a really nice shape to them so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the pattern need to be put on the wheel so glued the pattern on a thin chunk a wood and drilled out the center now with the drill bit in place you can hold the tire and pattern and mark them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need a jig to hold the tire while we drill out for the spokes.
> As you can see in the picture above the hole is half on the tire so need to use a 3/8 forstner drill bit so it drills it and doesn't slide off.
> To make this much easier build a jig with a dowel that fits tight in the tire and clamp the jig down so the dowel stays put and the drill always hits the same spot on the tire..
> I just happened to have the old pattern I used to line up the drill bit and that's what you see in the second picture.
> Now the tire can turn to drill every other mark but it will always hit the same place on the tire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now all the spokes are drilled need to make a better mark for the lag bolt hole and I hit it with a all to be sure the small drill bit goes where it should.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to drill out the center of the 3' tire.
> 
> I used a wore out 1 1/2" hole saw and when I was done with the first one I couldn't believe it but the center fit just right.
> The last time I made tires I drilled out the centers bigger and had to sand them down to fit in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped the inside edges then sanded and buffed the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then glue up the parts.
> 
> *Be sure to hold them down till the glue takes hold they need to be straight with the rims.*
> 
> Have the centers that will be the front tires flush with the front of the tire and the back rims will be glued toward the back of the tire.
> Once the tires are set used the sanding jig to sand them round and to a uniform size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have my sander hooked up to the cyclone to keep the dust down and the fan to keep the heat down it's getting hot up in our neck of the woods.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now used the table saw with a skill saw blade [very thin] to cut three grooves and had planned to cut cross ways and make treads but this oak came from a platform bed I built 35 years ago and the wood was way old then so seems to be chipping quite badly so not going with the full treads this time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now glue in the tooth picks for the lag bolts and call it a day way to hot to go on today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will show the finished pictures here tomorrow, and thanks for looking in.


Those look fantastic! Job well done.

Bret


----------



## Jason1974

htl said:


> *Tires for the tanker truck 1&2*
> 
> The tires will be something like these but much simpler treads.
> They will be much thinner to fit the truck.
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/htl/blog/80818
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to experiment with some cheap new hole saws and see if I can make some truck tires for my latest project.
> This is an 18 hole saw set for $16 so way cheap and light duty.
> From Harbor Freight.
> The main thing I'm after here is the large choice of hole sizes for making tires.
> 3/4 In - 5 In Carbon Steel Hole Saw Set 18 Pc
> 
> When I showed the truck in my tanker truck tread I had stolen the wheels off my 1932 Lincoln kb project so I'm in need of some truck wheels.
> When i made the Lincoln I built some spoke wheels for the first time, made 8 of them and the first two didn't come out just right so they can be used on the truck
> but would really like some wheels that look like they came with the truck. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm wanting to make some 2 7/8 tires so put the 3" hole saw in my drill press [Shop Smith] ,
> and on the lowest speed setting tried to drill a wheel well my saw is way to fast and just didn't like the feel of it so went and using my 18v Ryobi and drilled out 8 3/4 thick oak blanks for the tires in no time.
> 
> *Note to self-* plain board before drilling out the holes so the wood will stay the same thickness.
> 
> So that tells me the cheap thin metal isn't putting that much of a load on the power drill, the drill did get hot but don't need to do them all at once any way..
> 
> OK so got the main tires drilled out.
> It really did a pretty smooth job for a 3" hole saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to be using a hole pattern with 10 points, this will give us 5 lag bolt holes and 5 spokes.
> Got this sheet from Dutchy and it's been really handy for my spoke and lag drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could drill out some centers but I've got a bunch a 1 1/2 tires i bought and will never use plus they have a really nice shape to them so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the pattern need to be put on the wheel so glued the pattern on a thin chunk a wood and drilled out the center now with the drill bit in place you can hold the tire and pattern and mark them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need a jig to hold the tire while we drill out for the spokes.
> As you can see in the picture above the hole is half on the tire so need to use a 3/8 forstner drill bit so it drills it and doesn't slide off.
> To make this much easier build a jig with a dowel that fits tight in the tire and clamp the jig down so the dowel stays put and the drill always hits the same spot on the tire..
> I just happened to have the old pattern I used to line up the drill bit and that's what you see in the second picture.
> Now the tire can turn to drill every other mark but it will always hit the same place on the tire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now all the spokes are drilled need to make a better mark for the lag bolt hole and I hit it with a all to be sure the small drill bit goes where it should.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to drill out the center of the 3' tire.
> 
> I used a wore out 1 1/2" hole saw and when I was done with the first one I couldn't believe it but the center fit just right.
> The last time I made tires I drilled out the centers bigger and had to sand them down to fit in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped the inside edges then sanded and buffed the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then glue up the parts.
> 
> *Be sure to hold them down till the glue takes hold they need to be straight with the rims.*
> 
> Have the centers that will be the front tires flush with the front of the tire and the back rims will be glued toward the back of the tire.
> Once the tires are set used the sanding jig to sand them round and to a uniform size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have my sander hooked up to the cyclone to keep the dust down and the fan to keep the heat down it's getting hot up in our neck of the woods.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now used the table saw with a skill saw blade [very thin] to cut three grooves and had planned to cut cross ways and make treads but this oak came from a platform bed I built 35 years ago and the wood was way old then so seems to be chipping quite badly so not going with the full treads this time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now glue in the tooth picks for the lag bolts and call it a day way to hot to go on today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will show the finished pictures here tomorrow, and thanks for looking in.


Bruce,

Do you still have a copy of the sheet you got from Dutchy to make the wheels? Is there a link we can download it?


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Tires for the tanker truck 1&2*
> 
> The tires will be something like these but much simpler treads.
> They will be much thinner to fit the truck.
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/htl/blog/80818
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to experiment with some cheap new hole saws and see if I can make some truck tires for my latest project.
> This is an 18 hole saw set for $16 so way cheap and light duty.
> From Harbor Freight.
> The main thing I'm after here is the large choice of hole sizes for making tires.
> 3/4 In - 5 In Carbon Steel Hole Saw Set 18 Pc
> 
> When I showed the truck in my tanker truck tread I had stolen the wheels off my 1932 Lincoln kb project so I'm in need of some truck wheels.
> When i made the Lincoln I built some spoke wheels for the first time, made 8 of them and the first two didn't come out just right so they can be used on the truck
> but would really like some wheels that look like they came with the truck. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm wanting to make some 2 7/8 tires so put the 3" hole saw in my drill press [Shop Smith] ,
> and on the lowest speed setting tried to drill a wheel well my saw is way to fast and just didn't like the feel of it so went and using my 18v Ryobi and drilled out 8 3/4 thick oak blanks for the tires in no time.
> 
> *Note to self-* plain board before drilling out the holes so the wood will stay the same thickness.
> 
> So that tells me the cheap thin metal isn't putting that much of a load on the power drill, the drill did get hot but don't need to do them all at once any way..
> 
> OK so got the main tires drilled out.
> It really did a pretty smooth job for a 3" hole saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to be using a hole pattern with 10 points, this will give us 5 lag bolt holes and 5 spokes.
> Got this sheet from Dutchy and it's been really handy for my spoke and lag drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could drill out some centers but I've got a bunch a 1 1/2 tires i bought and will never use plus they have a really nice shape to them so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the pattern need to be put on the wheel so glued the pattern on a thin chunk a wood and drilled out the center now with the drill bit in place you can hold the tire and pattern and mark them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need a jig to hold the tire while we drill out for the spokes.
> As you can see in the picture above the hole is half on the tire so need to use a 3/8 forstner drill bit so it drills it and doesn't slide off.
> To make this much easier build a jig with a dowel that fits tight in the tire and clamp the jig down so the dowel stays put and the drill always hits the same spot on the tire..
> I just happened to have the old pattern I used to line up the drill bit and that's what you see in the second picture.
> Now the tire can turn to drill every other mark but it will always hit the same place on the tire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now all the spokes are drilled need to make a better mark for the lag bolt hole and I hit it with a all to be sure the small drill bit goes where it should.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to drill out the center of the 3' tire.
> 
> I used a wore out 1 1/2" hole saw and when I was done with the first one I couldn't believe it but the center fit just right.
> The last time I made tires I drilled out the centers bigger and had to sand them down to fit in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped the inside edges then sanded and buffed the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then glue up the parts.
> 
> *Be sure to hold them down till the glue takes hold they need to be straight with the rims.*
> 
> Have the centers that will be the front tires flush with the front of the tire and the back rims will be glued toward the back of the tire.
> Once the tires are set used the sanding jig to sand them round and to a uniform size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have my sander hooked up to the cyclone to keep the dust down and the fan to keep the heat down it's getting hot up in our neck of the woods.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now used the table saw with a skill saw blade [very thin] to cut three grooves and had planned to cut cross ways and make treads but this oak came from a platform bed I built 35 years ago and the wood was way old then so seems to be chipping quite badly so not going with the full treads this time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now glue in the tooth picks for the lag bolts and call it a day way to hot to go on today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will show the finished pictures here tomorrow, and thanks for looking in.


Try this.
This is Dutchy's so thank him.










Be sure to check out some of my later blogs as I now use a jig that make this so much easier.


This jig also does great lag bolt holes.


----------



## Jason1974

htl said:


> *Tires for the tanker truck 1&2*
> 
> The tires will be something like these but much simpler treads.
> They will be much thinner to fit the truck.
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/htl/blog/80818
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to experiment with some cheap new hole saws and see if I can make some truck tires for my latest project.
> This is an 18 hole saw set for $16 so way cheap and light duty.
> From Harbor Freight.
> The main thing I'm after here is the large choice of hole sizes for making tires.
> 3/4 In - 5 In Carbon Steel Hole Saw Set 18 Pc
> 
> When I showed the truck in my tanker truck tread I had stolen the wheels off my 1932 Lincoln kb project so I'm in need of some truck wheels.
> When i made the Lincoln I built some spoke wheels for the first time, made 8 of them and the first two didn't come out just right so they can be used on the truck
> but would really like some wheels that look like they came with the truck. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm wanting to make some 2 7/8 tires so put the 3" hole saw in my drill press [Shop Smith] ,
> and on the lowest speed setting tried to drill a wheel well my saw is way to fast and just didn't like the feel of it so went and using my 18v Ryobi and drilled out 8 3/4 thick oak blanks for the tires in no time.
> 
> *Note to self-* plain board before drilling out the holes so the wood will stay the same thickness.
> 
> So that tells me the cheap thin metal isn't putting that much of a load on the power drill, the drill did get hot but don't need to do them all at once any way..
> 
> OK so got the main tires drilled out.
> It really did a pretty smooth job for a 3" hole saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to be using a hole pattern with 10 points, this will give us 5 lag bolt holes and 5 spokes.
> Got this sheet from Dutchy and it's been really handy for my spoke and lag drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could drill out some centers but I've got a bunch a 1 1/2 tires i bought and will never use plus they have a really nice shape to them so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the pattern need to be put on the wheel so glued the pattern on a thin chunk a wood and drilled out the center now with the drill bit in place you can hold the tire and pattern and mark them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need a jig to hold the tire while we drill out for the spokes.
> As you can see in the picture above the hole is half on the tire so need to use a 3/8 forstner drill bit so it drills it and doesn't slide off.
> To make this much easier build a jig with a dowel that fits tight in the tire and clamp the jig down so the dowel stays put and the drill always hits the same spot on the tire..
> I just happened to have the old pattern I used to line up the drill bit and that's what you see in the second picture.
> Now the tire can turn to drill every other mark but it will always hit the same place on the tire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now all the spokes are drilled need to make a better mark for the lag bolt hole and I hit it with a all to be sure the small drill bit goes where it should.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to drill out the center of the 3' tire.
> 
> I used a wore out 1 1/2" hole saw and when I was done with the first one I couldn't believe it but the center fit just right.
> The last time I made tires I drilled out the centers bigger and had to sand them down to fit in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped the inside edges then sanded and buffed the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then glue up the parts.
> 
> *Be sure to hold them down till the glue takes hold they need to be straight with the rims.*
> 
> Have the centers that will be the front tires flush with the front of the tire and the back rims will be glued toward the back of the tire.
> Once the tires are set used the sanding jig to sand them round and to a uniform size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have my sander hooked up to the cyclone to keep the dust down and the fan to keep the heat down it's getting hot up in our neck of the woods.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now used the table saw with a skill saw blade [very thin] to cut three grooves and had planned to cut cross ways and make treads but this oak came from a platform bed I built 35 years ago and the wood was way old then so seems to be chipping quite badly so not going with the full treads this time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now glue in the tooth picks for the lag bolts and call it a day way to hot to go on today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will show the finished pictures here tomorrow, and thanks for looking in.


Dutchy,

The sheet you made for making wheels, did you add that to any of your plans for download? And thanks for making that sheet.


----------



## htl

*Tires for the tanker truck 3 ++Vote for your tire++*

Well I cut and sanded down the tooth picks and what a pain!
First I nipped all the tooth picks off with some wire pliers then the front tires I could just sand with the disk sander till I touched the rim and they were fine, but the back are set deeper in so needed to trim them some more but how with out buggering every thing up?
I ended up finding a bolt that would fit in between the spokes and could sand to the bolt head to get them all even, but it took some brain storming before a solution made it self know to this feeble brain.





































*OK Now I've got a job for you all.*

I've been playing with both sets of tires and will show the new set but I can't make up my mind if I like the newer wheels on this truck or not may need to save them for some future build with a more modern look.

I'm so used to the spokes I just can't tell so give me a vote which you think looks better.
I like them both but the spokes kinda fit the truck better to me.

I also put a set on the car but the oak wheels and the all cherry car just don't mix to me, but here again even if they were cherry would they work or not.













































Here's the truck with spokes.


















And here's the posting of them.
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/251330

And here's the car with them on it.

My only wish is the tooth picks didn't show up so white on camera.
I know they don't work here but just for fun.





































The voting booth is open LOL


----------



## bruce317

htl said:


> *Tires for the tanker truck 3 ++Vote for your tire++*
> 
> Well I cut and sanded down the tooth picks and what a pain!
> First I nipped all the tooth picks off with some wire pliers then the front tires I could just sand with the disk sander till I touched the rim and they were fine, but the back are set deeper in so needed to trim them some more but how with out buggering every thing up?
> I ended up finding a bolt that would fit in between the spokes and could sand to the bolt head to get them all even, but it took some brain storming before a solution made it self know to this feeble brain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OK Now I've got a job for you all.*
> 
> I've been playing with both sets of tires and will show the new set but I can't make up my mind if I like the newer wheels on this truck or not may need to save them for some future build with a more modern look.
> 
> I'm so used to the spokes I just can't tell so give me a vote which you think looks better.
> I like them both but the spokes kinda fit the truck better to me.
> 
> I also put a set on the car but the oak wheels and the all cherry car just don't mix to me, but here again even if they were cherry would they work or not.
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> Here's the truck with spokes.
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> And here's the posting of them.
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/251330
> 
> And here's the car with them on it.
> 
> My only wish is the tooth picks didn't show up so white on camera.
> I know they don't work here but just for fun.
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> The voting booth is open LOL


Bruce,
I looked up 1930 fuel oil truck images on net. Looking at the real photos only, not toy photos. 
I vote for the new wheels you just made.
The new truck wheels don't look right on Lincoln. Just my thought.


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Tires for the tanker truck 3 ++Vote for your tire++*
> 
> Well I cut and sanded down the tooth picks and what a pain!
> First I nipped all the tooth picks off with some wire pliers then the front tires I could just sand with the disk sander till I touched the rim and they were fine, but the back are set deeper in so needed to trim them some more but how with out buggering every thing up?
> I ended up finding a bolt that would fit in between the spokes and could sand to the bolt head to get them all even, but it took some brain storming before a solution made it self know to this feeble brain.
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> 
> *OK Now I've got a job for you all.*
> 
> I've been playing with both sets of tires and will show the new set but I can't make up my mind if I like the newer wheels on this truck or not may need to save them for some future build with a more modern look.
> 
> I'm so used to the spokes I just can't tell so give me a vote which you think looks better.
> I like them both but the spokes kinda fit the truck better to me.
> 
> I also put a set on the car but the oak wheels and the all cherry car just don't mix to me, but here again even if they were cherry would they work or not.
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> Here's the truck with spokes.
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> 
> And here's the posting of them.
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/251330
> 
> And here's the car with them on it.
> 
> My only wish is the tooth picks didn't show up so white on camera.
> I know they don't work here but just for fun.
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> The voting booth is open LOL


You did a neat job on the new wheels, I like the new truck wheels on the Truck (just my option)


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## PaulDoug

htl said:


> *Tires for the tanker truck 3 ++Vote for your tire++*
> 
> Well I cut and sanded down the tooth picks and what a pain!
> First I nipped all the tooth picks off with some wire pliers then the front tires I could just sand with the disk sander till I touched the rim and they were fine, but the back are set deeper in so needed to trim them some more but how with out buggering every thing up?
> I ended up finding a bolt that would fit in between the spokes and could sand to the bolt head to get them all even, but it took some brain storming before a solution made it self know to this feeble brain.
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> *OK Now I've got a job for you all.*
> 
> I've been playing with both sets of tires and will show the new set but I can't make up my mind if I like the newer wheels on this truck or not may need to save them for some future build with a more modern look.
> 
> I'm so used to the spokes I just can't tell so give me a vote which you think looks better.
> I like them both but the spokes kinda fit the truck better to me.
> 
> I also put a set on the car but the oak wheels and the all cherry car just don't mix to me, but here again even if they were cherry would they work or not.
> 
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> Here's the truck with spokes.
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> And here's the posting of them.
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/251330
> 
> And here's the car with them on it.
> 
> My only wish is the tooth picks didn't show up so white on camera.
> I know they don't work here but just for fun.
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> The voting booth is open LOL


I agree, both excellent and both fit what made for. New truck wheels on the truck. Spoke on the car. And, thanks for showing how you did both.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Tires for the tanker truck 3 ++Vote for your tire++*
> 
> Well I cut and sanded down the tooth picks and what a pain!
> First I nipped all the tooth picks off with some wire pliers then the front tires I could just sand with the disk sander till I touched the rim and they were fine, but the back are set deeper in so needed to trim them some more but how with out buggering every thing up?
> I ended up finding a bolt that would fit in between the spokes and could sand to the bolt head to get them all even, but it took some brain storming before a solution made it self know to this feeble brain.
> 
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> 
> *OK Now I've got a job for you all.*
> 
> I've been playing with both sets of tires and will show the new set but I can't make up my mind if I like the newer wheels on this truck or not may need to save them for some future build with a more modern look.
> 
> I'm so used to the spokes I just can't tell so give me a vote which you think looks better.
> I like them both but the spokes kinda fit the truck better to me.
> 
> I also put a set on the car but the oak wheels and the all cherry car just don't mix to me, but here again even if they were cherry would they work or not.
> 
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> Here's the truck with spokes.
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> 
> And here's the posting of them.
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/251330
> 
> And here's the car with them on it.
> 
> My only wish is the tooth picks didn't show up so white on camera.
> I know they don't work here but just for fun.
> 
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> The voting booth is open LOL


I was just playing with the wheels.
It's not very often you get to try out different looks.
And your all right the truck is starting to look better with the new wheels, I didn't think it would be that much better but once you see them side by side there's a big difference. 
I do wish the tooth picks would suck in more of the finish and darken up, will make the next set if I ever do with some real wood dowel.
So thanks all for checking it out, but more views would be nice too.


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## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Tires for the tanker truck 3 ++Vote for your tire++*
> 
> Well I cut and sanded down the tooth picks and what a pain!
> First I nipped all the tooth picks off with some wire pliers then the front tires I could just sand with the disk sander till I touched the rim and they were fine, but the back are set deeper in so needed to trim them some more but how with out buggering every thing up?
> I ended up finding a bolt that would fit in between the spokes and could sand to the bolt head to get them all even, but it took some brain storming before a solution made it self know to this feeble brain.
> 
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> 
> *OK Now I've got a job for you all.*
> 
> I've been playing with both sets of tires and will show the new set but I can't make up my mind if I like the newer wheels on this truck or not may need to save them for some future build with a more modern look.
> 
> I'm so used to the spokes I just can't tell so give me a vote which you think looks better.
> I like them both but the spokes kinda fit the truck better to me.
> 
> I also put a set on the car but the oak wheels and the all cherry car just don't mix to me, but here again even if they were cherry would they work or not.
> 
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> Here's the truck with spokes.
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> 
> And here's the posting of them.
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/251330
> 
> And here's the car with them on it.
> 
> My only wish is the tooth picks didn't show up so white on camera.
> I know they don't work here but just for fun.
> 
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> The voting booth is open LOL


I like the spokes on the car, and the new hubs on the truck.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Tires for the tanker truck 3 ++Vote for your tire++*
> 
> Well I cut and sanded down the tooth picks and what a pain!
> First I nipped all the tooth picks off with some wire pliers then the front tires I could just sand with the disk sander till I touched the rim and they were fine, but the back are set deeper in so needed to trim them some more but how with out buggering every thing up?
> I ended up finding a bolt that would fit in between the spokes and could sand to the bolt head to get them all even, but it took some brain storming before a solution made it self know to this feeble brain.
> 
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> 
> *OK Now I've got a job for you all.*
> 
> I've been playing with both sets of tires and will show the new set but I can't make up my mind if I like the newer wheels on this truck or not may need to save them for some future build with a more modern look.
> 
> I'm so used to the spokes I just can't tell so give me a vote which you think looks better.
> I like them both but the spokes kinda fit the truck better to me.
> 
> I also put a set on the car but the oak wheels and the all cherry car just don't mix to me, but here again even if they were cherry would they work or not.
> 
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> Here's the truck with spokes.
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> 
> And here's the posting of them.
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/251330
> 
> And here's the car with them on it.
> 
> My only wish is the tooth picks didn't show up so white on camera.
> I know they don't work here but just for fun.
> 
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> The voting booth is open LOL


Bruce #317
I did like you just now and checked out some old pictures and the wheels are fairly close in looks, how cool is that.









You have to go way back to see them in spokes. lol


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Tires for the tanker truck 3 ++Vote for your tire++*
> 
> Well I cut and sanded down the tooth picks and what a pain!
> First I nipped all the tooth picks off with some wire pliers then the front tires I could just sand with the disk sander till I touched the rim and they were fine, but the back are set deeper in so needed to trim them some more but how with out buggering every thing up?
> I ended up finding a bolt that would fit in between the spokes and could sand to the bolt head to get them all even, but it took some brain storming before a solution made it self know to this feeble brain.
> 
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> 
> *OK Now I've got a job for you all.*
> 
> I've been playing with both sets of tires and will show the new set but I can't make up my mind if I like the newer wheels on this truck or not may need to save them for some future build with a more modern look.
> 
> I'm so used to the spokes I just can't tell so give me a vote which you think looks better.
> I like them both but the spokes kinda fit the truck better to me.
> 
> I also put a set on the car but the oak wheels and the all cherry car just don't mix to me, but here again even if they were cherry would they work or not.
> 
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> Here's the truck with spokes.
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> 
> And here's the posting of them.
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/251330
> 
> And here's the car with them on it.
> 
> My only wish is the tooth picks didn't show up so white on camera.
> I know they don't work here but just for fun.
> 
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> The voting booth is open LOL


#4, the bear has woken and has a sore filling. My rational summation, your honour…
On the truck, the spokes may be OK for those girlie champagne cartage, but for men's heavy bootleg you need solid wheels.
You need the spokes on the Lincoln as with the heavy rims the cops would have too easy a job to shoot out the tyres.

Both wheels look great, however, I think your initial choice for Abe and your latest wheels designed for your tanker are a "*Lay down Misere*".

You just wanted to brag about the Lincoln again, didn't you???


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## htl

htl said:


> *Tires for the tanker truck 3 ++Vote for your tire++*
> 
> Well I cut and sanded down the tooth picks and what a pain!
> First I nipped all the tooth picks off with some wire pliers then the front tires I could just sand with the disk sander till I touched the rim and they were fine, but the back are set deeper in so needed to trim them some more but how with out buggering every thing up?
> I ended up finding a bolt that would fit in between the spokes and could sand to the bolt head to get them all even, but it took some brain storming before a solution made it self know to this feeble brain.
> 
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> 
> *OK Now I've got a job for you all.*
> 
> I've been playing with both sets of tires and will show the new set but I can't make up my mind if I like the newer wheels on this truck or not may need to save them for some future build with a more modern look.
> 
> I'm so used to the spokes I just can't tell so give me a vote which you think looks better.
> I like them both but the spokes kinda fit the truck better to me.
> 
> I also put a set on the car but the oak wheels and the all cherry car just don't mix to me, but here again even if they were cherry would they work or not.
> 
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> Here's the truck with spokes.
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> 
> And here's the posting of them.
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/251330
> 
> And here's the car with them on it.
> 
> My only wish is the tooth picks didn't show up so white on camera.
> I know they don't work here but just for fun.
> 
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> The voting booth is open LOL


Ducky Ducky Ducky
I had to find out what you were saying as I know nothing about gambling.
I knew it wasn't English or Dutch. LOL 
"" 'lay down misere' is *Australian* gambling slang for a predicted easy victory.""

Just having some fun seeing what looks what on what.
How often do you get the chance to model different parts to show the out come.
I hope someone including me has learned something about the different looks that can be had with these wheels, and sorry if I had some fun while I was doing it. [Which I did. lol]

I now have two extra sets a wheels and need to figure where to put them.

But for now I think I'm going back and build the cattle car which should be a fun simple build in this hot weather, we're having in this neck of the woods.


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## bj383ss

htl said:


> *Tires for the tanker truck 3 ++Vote for your tire++*
> 
> Well I cut and sanded down the tooth picks and what a pain!
> First I nipped all the tooth picks off with some wire pliers then the front tires I could just sand with the disk sander till I touched the rim and they were fine, but the back are set deeper in so needed to trim them some more but how with out buggering every thing up?
> I ended up finding a bolt that would fit in between the spokes and could sand to the bolt head to get them all even, but it took some brain storming before a solution made it self know to this feeble brain.
> 
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> 
> *OK Now I've got a job for you all.*
> 
> I've been playing with both sets of tires and will show the new set but I can't make up my mind if I like the newer wheels on this truck or not may need to save them for some future build with a more modern look.
> 
> I'm so used to the spokes I just can't tell so give me a vote which you think looks better.
> I like them both but the spokes kinda fit the truck better to me.
> 
> I also put a set on the car but the oak wheels and the all cherry car just don't mix to me, but here again even if they were cherry would they work or not.
> 
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> Here's the truck with spokes.
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> 
> And here's the posting of them.
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/251330
> 
> And here's the car with them on it.
> 
> My only wish is the tooth picks didn't show up so white on camera.
> I know they don't work here but just for fun.
> 
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> The voting booth is open LOL


I vote for the new wheels as well. I think they look better and more realistic than the spoke ones. What pain they are to make.

Bret


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## htl

htl said:


> *Tires for the tanker truck 3 ++Vote for your tire++*
> 
> Well I cut and sanded down the tooth picks and what a pain!
> First I nipped all the tooth picks off with some wire pliers then the front tires I could just sand with the disk sander till I touched the rim and they were fine, but the back are set deeper in so needed to trim them some more but how with out buggering every thing up?
> I ended up finding a bolt that would fit in between the spokes and could sand to the bolt head to get them all even, but it took some brain storming before a solution made it self know to this feeble brain.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OK Now I've got a job for you all.*
> 
> I've been playing with both sets of tires and will show the new set but I can't make up my mind if I like the newer wheels on this truck or not may need to save them for some future build with a more modern look.
> 
> I'm so used to the spokes I just can't tell so give me a vote which you think looks better.
> I like them both but the spokes kinda fit the truck better to me.
> 
> I also put a set on the car but the oak wheels and the all cherry car just don't mix to me, but here again even if they were cherry would they work or not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the truck with spokes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's the posting of them.
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/251330
> 
> And here's the car with them on it.
> 
> My only wish is the tooth picks didn't show up so white on camera.
> I know they don't work here but just for fun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The voting booth is open LOL


bj383ss They're really not that hard to make but I can see why picking the right wood to make them really counts, especially if your going to cut treads.
I would guess that why they use what is it maple for the store bought wheels, they don't splinter or chip as bad.
When I did the Mack truck I had a bunch a cherry and those tires came out much smoother and chip free.
I guess it's like any thing else the more you make them the easier it gets.


----------



## htl

*Cattle car for my train set*

Found these prints a while back and so it's time to get er made.









Had to enlarge it by 150% with my copier then I shortened it so it would match my other cars.
If I can get the wheels to 1" on the plans I know it's all to scale, for my train.










So got out in the shop before it got to hot and got the sides made up.
I'd been thinking on this one for a while so had a pretty good idea how I wanted to do it.










Re-sawed some 3/4 oak down to 3/8 and planed it, then cut out the bottom and sides.
I then made some 1/4" lumber to be the braces and glued them on really good they'll be holding every thing together so need to be strong..

Set the table saw to cut the sides for the slats and just barely nick the brace wood.
So now I have slats and the braces are holding it all together.




































So tomorrow will be door and glue up the sides and add trim, then on to the roof.
I don't have any more wheels so will need to make those also.

One thing I should note I use Gorilla super glue and then when I add finish I use Wetco Danish oil finish and the two blend together so the glue doesn't show.
This is a little thicker glue and doesn't run much.
There is a lot in the bottle so it lasts a long time.










My wife got me the Gorilla jelled super glue [in the green bottle] and I didn't like it at all, you had to shake it every time you wanted to use it and lasted no time.

I hate to buy those little bottles of glue and there's hardly any thing in them.

That's all folks.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Cattle car for my train set*
> 
> Found these prints a while back and so it's time to get er made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to enlarge it by 150% with my copier then I shortened it so it would match my other cars.
> If I can get the wheels to 1" on the plans I know it's all to scale, for my train.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So got out in the shop before it got to hot and got the sides made up.
> I'd been thinking on this one for a while so had a pretty good idea how I wanted to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re-sawed some 3/4 oak down to 3/8 and planed it, then cut out the bottom and sides.
> I then made some 1/4" lumber to be the braces and glued them on really good they'll be holding every thing together so need to be strong..
> 
> Set the table saw to cut the sides for the slats and just barely nick the brace wood.
> So now I have slats and the braces are holding it all together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So tomorrow will be door and glue up the sides and add trim, then on to the roof.
> I don't have any more wheels so will need to make those also.
> 
> One thing I should note I use Gorilla super glue and then when I add finish I use Wetco Danish oil finish and the two blend together so the glue doesn't show.
> This is a little thicker glue and doesn't run much.
> There is a lot in the bottle so it lasts a long time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My wife got me the Gorilla jelled super glue [in the green bottle] and I didn't like it at all, you had to shake it every time you wanted to use it and lasted no time.
> 
> I hate to buy those little bottles of glue and there's hardly any thing in them.
> 
> That's all folks.


You're certainly well and truly on the way with this project Bruce…
Very clever to use the glue & oil to hide the glue joins…


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Cattle car for my train set*
> 
> Found these prints a while back and so it's time to get er made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to enlarge it by 150% with my copier then I shortened it so it would match my other cars.
> If I can get the wheels to 1" on the plans I know it's all to scale, for my train.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So got out in the shop before it got to hot and got the sides made up.
> I'd been thinking on this one for a while so had a pretty good idea how I wanted to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re-sawed some 3/4 oak down to 3/8 and planed it, then cut out the bottom and sides.
> I then made some 1/4" lumber to be the braces and glued them on really good they'll be holding every thing together so need to be strong..
> 
> Set the table saw to cut the sides for the slats and just barely nick the brace wood.
> So now I have slats and the braces are holding it all together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So tomorrow will be door and glue up the sides and add trim, then on to the roof.
> I don't have any more wheels so will need to make those also.
> 
> One thing I should note I use Gorilla super glue and then when I add finish I use Wetco Danish oil finish and the two blend together so the glue doesn't show.
> This is a little thicker glue and doesn't run much.
> There is a lot in the bottle so it lasts a long time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My wife got me the Gorilla jelled super glue [in the green bottle] and I didn't like it at all, you had to shake it every time you wanted to use it and lasted no time.
> 
> I hate to buy those little bottles of glue and there's hardly any thing in them.
> 
> That's all folks.


I love trains … just don't have any plans on making any right now LOL


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Cattle car for my train set*
> 
> Found these prints a while back and so it's time to get er made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to enlarge it by 150% with my copier then I shortened it so it would match my other cars.
> If I can get the wheels to 1" on the plans I know it's all to scale, for my train.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So got out in the shop before it got to hot and got the sides made up.
> I'd been thinking on this one for a while so had a pretty good idea how I wanted to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re-sawed some 3/4 oak down to 3/8 and planed it, then cut out the bottom and sides.
> I then made some 1/4" lumber to be the braces and glued them on really good they'll be holding every thing together so need to be strong..
> 
> Set the table saw to cut the sides for the slats and just barely nick the brace wood.
> So now I have slats and the braces are holding it all together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So tomorrow will be door and glue up the sides and add trim, then on to the roof.
> I don't have any more wheels so will need to make those also.
> 
> One thing I should note I use Gorilla super glue and then when I add finish I use Wetco Danish oil finish and the two blend together so the glue doesn't show.
> This is a little thicker glue and doesn't run much.
> There is a lot in the bottle so it lasts a long time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My wife got me the Gorilla jelled super glue [in the green bottle] and I didn't like it at all, you had to shake it every time you wanted to use it and lasted no time.
> 
> I hate to buy those little bottles of glue and there's hardly any thing in them.
> 
> That's all folks.


Gr8hunter Well then don't get started because once you do there's no end to what you can add to it.

I just loved the Caboose so made it then had so much fun building it had to do a scratch build passenger car and once you've made two you got to have an engine, then tracks, then, then, then!!!

One thing about these cars their square boxes so quite easy and fast which to me makes them really fun.
So be carefull once you grab a train by it's tail your in trouble.


----------



## PaulDoug

htl said:


> *Cattle car for my train set*
> 
> Found these prints a while back and so it's time to get er made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to enlarge it by 150% with my copier then I shortened it so it would match my other cars.
> If I can get the wheels to 1" on the plans I know it's all to scale, for my train.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So got out in the shop before it got to hot and got the sides made up.
> I'd been thinking on this one for a while so had a pretty good idea how I wanted to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re-sawed some 3/4 oak down to 3/8 and planed it, then cut out the bottom and sides.
> I then made some 1/4" lumber to be the braces and glued them on really good they'll be holding every thing together so need to be strong..
> 
> Set the table saw to cut the sides for the slats and just barely nick the brace wood.
> So now I have slats and the braces are holding it all together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So tomorrow will be door and glue up the sides and add trim, then on to the roof.
> I don't have any more wheels so will need to make those also.
> 
> One thing I should note I use Gorilla super glue and then when I add finish I use Wetco Danish oil finish and the two blend together so the glue doesn't show.
> This is a little thicker glue and doesn't run much.
> There is a lot in the bottle so it lasts a long time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My wife got me the Gorilla jelled super glue [in the green bottle] and I didn't like it at all, you had to shake it every time you wanted to use it and lasted no time.
> 
> I hate to buy those little bottles of glue and there's hardly any thing in them.
> 
> That's all folks.


This is looking great. Really appreciate you doing the blog. I always learn a lot from them.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Cattle car for my train set*
> 
> Found these prints a while back and so it's time to get er made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to enlarge it by 150% with my copier then I shortened it so it would match my other cars.
> If I can get the wheels to 1" on the plans I know it's all to scale, for my train.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So got out in the shop before it got to hot and got the sides made up.
> I'd been thinking on this one for a while so had a pretty good idea how I wanted to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re-sawed some 3/4 oak down to 3/8 and planed it, then cut out the bottom and sides.
> I then made some 1/4" lumber to be the braces and glued them on really good they'll be holding every thing together so need to be strong..
> 
> Set the table saw to cut the sides for the slats and just barely nick the brace wood.
> So now I have slats and the braces are holding it all together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So tomorrow will be door and glue up the sides and add trim, then on to the roof.
> I don't have any more wheels so will need to make those also.
> 
> One thing I should note I use Gorilla super glue and then when I add finish I use Wetco Danish oil finish and the two blend together so the glue doesn't show.
> This is a little thicker glue and doesn't run much.
> There is a lot in the bottle so it lasts a long time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My wife got me the Gorilla jelled super glue [in the green bottle] and I didn't like it at all, you had to shake it every time you wanted to use it and lasted no time.
> 
> I hate to buy those little bottles of glue and there's hardly any thing in them.
> 
> That's all folks.


Nice job so far, but less would not be expected (or accepted).

What type of oak are you using? Here in Aussieland I have access to Tasmanian oak which is a dog to do fine woodworking with because of it's stringy fibres.

I'll leave further pleasantries for the finished product and onto more serious matters.

Your nemesis is back! *YOUR GONNA NEED A BIGGA TRACK!* Looking at picture 2, if you ever get sick of trains you can always use it as a door for the workshop, especially on those hot summer day, though may be a tad breezy in winter.

I really like your approach and intuition, however…., where are you going to get *cows* that you can fatten up by an extra 50% and then get a vice big enough to shorten them to fit into the carriage*?* *?* *?* *?* *?* Furthermore, long horns would be murder!



> ...
> There is a lot in the bottle so it lasts a long time.
> ...
> I hate to buy those little bottles of glue and there s hardly any thing in them.
> ...
> 
> - htl


Me too. For my pen making I use super glue and the nozzle end usually gums up after continual use. When I found some on sale I got just a tad carried away.








I bought them 5 years ago (so who knows how old they were then) and recently realised that CA has a definitive shelf life of 1 year max (especially if not next to your beer in the fridge) and I now need about 50 of those little vials to get a glue sniffing high, but then again it no longer glues my nose hairs together. (Just a word of advice for the wary - One of those few times I don't speak with a forked tongue.)



> My *wife* got me the Gorilla jelled super glue [in the green bottle] and I didn t like it at all, you *had to shake *it every time you wanted to use it and lasted no time.
> 
> - htl


Hope she has recovered from the shaking. (Imagine the fine print on a marriage certificate, "*Shake well before use*.")

*PS.* Don't tell anyone but you misspelled your signoff… Here in Churchill we were taught in school to spell it with a "u".


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Cattle car for my train set*
> 
> Found these prints a while back and so it's time to get er made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to enlarge it by 150% with my copier then I shortened it so it would match my other cars.
> If I can get the wheels to 1" on the plans I know it's all to scale, for my train.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So got out in the shop before it got to hot and got the sides made up.
> I'd been thinking on this one for a while so had a pretty good idea how I wanted to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re-sawed some 3/4 oak down to 3/8 and planed it, then cut out the bottom and sides.
> I then made some 1/4" lumber to be the braces and glued them on really good they'll be holding every thing together so need to be strong..
> 
> Set the table saw to cut the sides for the slats and just barely nick the brace wood.
> So now I have slats and the braces are holding it all together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So tomorrow will be door and glue up the sides and add trim, then on to the roof.
> I don't have any more wheels so will need to make those also.
> 
> One thing I should note I use Gorilla super glue and then when I add finish I use Wetco Danish oil finish and the two blend together so the glue doesn't show.
> This is a little thicker glue and doesn't run much.
> There is a lot in the bottle so it lasts a long time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My wife got me the Gorilla jelled super glue [in the green bottle] and I didn't like it at all, you had to shake it every time you wanted to use it and lasted no time.
> 
> I hate to buy those little bottles of glue and there's hardly any thing in them.
> 
> That's all folks.


Ducky the bottom plans or shorter car's name is. FruitCar1.jpg
So I would guess I'm not hauling cattle in this car, it's a fruit hauler so should I say it you'd fit right in. LOL

The only problem with this is if I change the name of the post to fruit car,
I don't think anyone would check it out.

Thanks Ducky you finally decided to tell me I was typing it wrong all this time. LOL
To tell you the truth I just had to use the spell checker 3 times for that last sentence.
I can't spell to save my life thanks to google I can usually find my way around this weakness. 
But it won't happen again cause I have the technology to over come.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Cattle car for my train set*
> 
> Found these prints a while back and so it's time to get er made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to enlarge it by 150% with my copier then I shortened it so it would match my other cars.
> If I can get the wheels to 1" on the plans I know it's all to scale, for my train.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So got out in the shop before it got to hot and got the sides made up.
> I'd been thinking on this one for a while so had a pretty good idea how I wanted to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re-sawed some 3/4 oak down to 3/8 and planed it, then cut out the bottom and sides.
> I then made some 1/4" lumber to be the braces and glued them on really good they'll be holding every thing together so need to be strong..
> 
> Set the table saw to cut the sides for the slats and just barely nick the brace wood.
> So now I have slats and the braces are holding it all together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So tomorrow will be door and glue up the sides and add trim, then on to the roof.
> I don't have any more wheels so will need to make those also.
> 
> One thing I should note I use Gorilla super glue and then when I add finish I use Wetco Danish oil finish and the two blend together so the glue doesn't show.
> This is a little thicker glue and doesn't run much.
> There is a lot in the bottle so it lasts a long time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My wife got me the Gorilla jelled super glue [in the green bottle] and I didn't like it at all, you had to shake it every time you wanted to use it and lasted no time.
> 
> I hate to buy those little bottles of glue and there's hardly any thing in them.
> 
> That's all folks.


Sorry #4, I honestly thought you signed "focks" and thought it was a one time typo (I would never presume to question the original). It's that super glue sniffing.

You are also right about the title. It caught my eye as I miss read it as "*Cattle prod* to tame the missus".
Though Duckies might still read (speaking for myself only).


----------



## hunter71

htl said:


> *Cattle car for my train set*
> 
> Found these prints a while back and so it's time to get er made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to enlarge it by 150% with my copier then I shortened it so it would match my other cars.
> If I can get the wheels to 1" on the plans I know it's all to scale, for my train.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So got out in the shop before it got to hot and got the sides made up.
> I'd been thinking on this one for a while so had a pretty good idea how I wanted to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re-sawed some 3/4 oak down to 3/8 and planed it, then cut out the bottom and sides.
> I then made some 1/4" lumber to be the braces and glued them on really good they'll be holding every thing together so need to be strong..
> 
> Set the table saw to cut the sides for the slats and just barely nick the brace wood.
> So now I have slats and the braces are holding it all together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So tomorrow will be door and glue up the sides and add trim, then on to the roof.
> I don't have any more wheels so will need to make those also.
> 
> One thing I should note I use Gorilla super glue and then when I add finish I use Wetco Danish oil finish and the two blend together so the glue doesn't show.
> This is a little thicker glue and doesn't run much.
> There is a lot in the bottle so it lasts a long time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My wife got me the Gorilla jelled super glue [in the green bottle] and I didn't like it at all, you had to shake it every time you wanted to use it and lasted no time.
> 
> I hate to buy those little bottles of glue and there's hardly any thing in them.
> 
> That's all folks.


I like everything but the Gorilla glue. I am sold on Titebond II


----------



## johnstoneb

htl said:


> *Cattle car for my train set*
> 
> Found these prints a while back and so it's time to get er made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to enlarge it by 150% with my copier then I shortened it so it would match my other cars.
> If I can get the wheels to 1" on the plans I know it's all to scale, for my train.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So got out in the shop before it got to hot and got the sides made up.
> I'd been thinking on this one for a while so had a pretty good idea how I wanted to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re-sawed some 3/4 oak down to 3/8 and planed it, then cut out the bottom and sides.
> I then made some 1/4" lumber to be the braces and glued them on really good they'll be holding every thing together so need to be strong..
> 
> Set the table saw to cut the sides for the slats and just barely nick the brace wood.
> So now I have slats and the braces are holding it all together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So tomorrow will be door and glue up the sides and add trim, then on to the roof.
> I don't have any more wheels so will need to make those also.
> 
> One thing I should note I use Gorilla super glue and then when I add finish I use Wetco Danish oil finish and the two blend together so the glue doesn't show.
> This is a little thicker glue and doesn't run much.
> There is a lot in the bottle so it lasts a long time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My wife got me the Gorilla jelled super glue [in the green bottle] and I didn't like it at all, you had to shake it every time you wanted to use it and lasted no time.
> 
> I hate to buy those little bottles of glue and there's hardly any thing in them.
> 
> That's all folks.


Looking forward to seeing this one.


----------



## bj383ss

htl said:


> *Cattle car for my train set*
> 
> Found these prints a while back and so it's time to get er made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to enlarge it by 150% with my copier then I shortened it so it would match my other cars.
> If I can get the wheels to 1" on the plans I know it's all to scale, for my train.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So got out in the shop before it got to hot and got the sides made up.
> I'd been thinking on this one for a while so had a pretty good idea how I wanted to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re-sawed some 3/4 oak down to 3/8 and planed it, then cut out the bottom and sides.
> I then made some 1/4" lumber to be the braces and glued them on really good they'll be holding every thing together so need to be strong..
> 
> Set the table saw to cut the sides for the slats and just barely nick the brace wood.
> So now I have slats and the braces are holding it all together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So tomorrow will be door and glue up the sides and add trim, then on to the roof.
> I don't have any more wheels so will need to make those also.
> 
> One thing I should note I use Gorilla super glue and then when I add finish I use Wetco Danish oil finish and the two blend together so the glue doesn't show.
> This is a little thicker glue and doesn't run much.
> There is a lot in the bottle so it lasts a long time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My wife got me the Gorilla jelled super glue [in the green bottle] and I didn't like it at all, you had to shake it every time you wanted to use it and lasted no time.
> 
> I hate to buy those little bottles of glue and there's hardly any thing in them.
> 
> That's all folks.


Clever idea on using the saw to make the horizontal slates. That saves a lot of time and frustration. Even for the ride on this one.

Bret


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Cattle car for my train set*
> 
> Found these prints a while back and so it's time to get er made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to enlarge it by 150% with my copier then I shortened it so it would match my other cars.
> If I can get the wheels to 1" on the plans I know it's all to scale, for my train.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So got out in the shop before it got to hot and got the sides made up.
> I'd been thinking on this one for a while so had a pretty good idea how I wanted to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re-sawed some 3/4 oak down to 3/8 and planed it, then cut out the bottom and sides.
> I then made some 1/4" lumber to be the braces and glued them on really good they'll be holding every thing together so need to be strong..
> 
> Set the table saw to cut the sides for the slats and just barely nick the brace wood.
> So now I have slats and the braces are holding it all together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So tomorrow will be door and glue up the sides and add trim, then on to the roof.
> I don't have any more wheels so will need to make those also.
> 
> One thing I should note I use Gorilla super glue and then when I add finish I use Wetco Danish oil finish and the two blend together so the glue doesn't show.
> This is a little thicker glue and doesn't run much.
> There is a lot in the bottle so it lasts a long time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My wife got me the Gorilla jelled super glue [in the green bottle] and I didn't like it at all, you had to shake it every time you wanted to use it and lasted no time.
> 
> I hate to buy those little bottles of glue and there's hardly any thing in them.
> 
> That's all folks.


Geeze Ducky, now why'd you hafta go and tell him he was spelling "folks" wrong? And here all this time I thought he was cursing at us and should have put a "U" where the "C" was ! 
.
.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Cattle car for my train set*
> 
> Found these prints a while back and so it's time to get er made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to enlarge it by 150% with my copier then I shortened it so it would match my other cars.
> If I can get the wheels to 1" on the plans I know it's all to scale, for my train.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So got out in the shop before it got to hot and got the sides made up.
> I'd been thinking on this one for a while so had a pretty good idea how I wanted to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re-sawed some 3/4 oak down to 3/8 and planed it, then cut out the bottom and sides.
> I then made some 1/4" lumber to be the braces and glued them on really good they'll be holding every thing together so need to be strong..
> 
> Set the table saw to cut the sides for the slats and just barely nick the brace wood.
> So now I have slats and the braces are holding it all together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So tomorrow will be door and glue up the sides and add trim, then on to the roof.
> I don't have any more wheels so will need to make those also.
> 
> One thing I should note I use Gorilla super glue and then when I add finish I use Wetco Danish oil finish and the two blend together so the glue doesn't show.
> This is a little thicker glue and doesn't run much.
> There is a lot in the bottle so it lasts a long time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My wife got me the Gorilla jelled super glue [in the green bottle] and I didn't like it at all, you had to shake it every time you wanted to use it and lasted no time.
> 
> I hate to buy those little bottles of glue and there's hardly any thing in them.
> 
> That's all folks.


Joe In the back of my mind I knew it didn't feel right and have no idea why the spell checker didn't help me out but I know now.
I have no memory when it comes to names and spelling and any thing like that, have for years been big on computer building and would have loved to be a able to program but my mind doesn't work that way show me something and i'll pick it up pretty quick or ask me to figure some thing out no problem.

Working on this blog has really helped me to visualize words which is what I can't do.
So getting better at it I think and don't be afraid to tell me when I'm way off but a private message would be nice if it's really stupid.

And I would hope you all would have noticed by now I can't stand dirty talk and the like, will go the other way very quickly if things get nasty.
So now you know more about me than you really wanted to. LOL
That's my $.02


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Cattle car for my train set*
> 
> Found these prints a while back and so it's time to get er made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to enlarge it by 150% with my copier then I shortened it so it would match my other cars.
> If I can get the wheels to 1" on the plans I know it's all to scale, for my train.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So got out in the shop before it got to hot and got the sides made up.
> I'd been thinking on this one for a while so had a pretty good idea how I wanted to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re-sawed some 3/4 oak down to 3/8 and planed it, then cut out the bottom and sides.
> I then made some 1/4" lumber to be the braces and glued them on really good they'll be holding every thing together so need to be strong..
> 
> Set the table saw to cut the sides for the slats and just barely nick the brace wood.
> So now I have slats and the braces are holding it all together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So tomorrow will be door and glue up the sides and add trim, then on to the roof.
> I don't have any more wheels so will need to make those also.
> 
> One thing I should note I use Gorilla super glue and then when I add finish I use Wetco Danish oil finish and the two blend together so the glue doesn't show.
> This is a little thicker glue and doesn't run much.
> There is a lot in the bottle so it lasts a long time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My wife got me the Gorilla jelled super glue [in the green bottle] and I didn't like it at all, you had to shake it every time you wanted to use it and lasted no time.
> 
> I hate to buy those little bottles of glue and there's hardly any thing in them.
> 
> That's all folks.





> I like everything but the Gorilla glue. I am sold on Titebond II
> 
> - hunter71


Hunter I like the Titebond too on real furniture projects but hate waiting 30 minutes for stuff to dry and the white marks that the glue leaves on small projects just won't work.
For building toys where kids will play with it need that extra strength so Titedond it is.

On my models the super glue holds in a minute and I'm on to the next step plus the Gorilla glue if it bleeds out the side turns the wood a brown color that just matchs the brown that the hand rub finish leaves so no glue marks are seen.

When i was building something and just felt I needed to add some extra support I used some of that really liquidity super glue and it socked in really well and I felt better about the joint but when I went and added my finish the glue had socked in and sealed the wood with a lighter shade of brown so you can see it not bad but it is notice able.

I've got where if I feel I need some extra strength I will put on some wood glue down the center and then use super glue just enough to hold it till the wood glue dries.

As I've said before there's a hundred ways to do things this is what works for me.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Cattle car for my train set*
> 
> Found these prints a while back and so it's time to get er made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to enlarge it by 150% with my copier then I shortened it so it would match my other cars.
> If I can get the wheels to 1" on the plans I know it's all to scale, for my train.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So got out in the shop before it got to hot and got the sides made up.
> I'd been thinking on this one for a while so had a pretty good idea how I wanted to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re-sawed some 3/4 oak down to 3/8 and planed it, then cut out the bottom and sides.
> I then made some 1/4" lumber to be the braces and glued them on really good they'll be holding every thing together so need to be strong..
> 
> Set the table saw to cut the sides for the slats and just barely nick the brace wood.
> So now I have slats and the braces are holding it all together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So tomorrow will be door and glue up the sides and add trim, then on to the roof.
> I don't have any more wheels so will need to make those also.
> 
> One thing I should note I use Gorilla super glue and then when I add finish I use Wetco Danish oil finish and the two blend together so the glue doesn't show.
> This is a little thicker glue and doesn't run much.
> There is a lot in the bottle so it lasts a long time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My wife got me the Gorilla jelled super glue [in the green bottle] and I didn't like it at all, you had to shake it every time you wanted to use it and lasted no time.
> 
> I hate to buy those little bottles of glue and there's hardly any thing in them.
> 
> That's all folks.


#4, You couldn't have said it better even if you were a toy maker rather than a glue salesman…. Stick 2 it.


----------



## htl

*Not a Cattle Car but a Fruit Car???*

It was brought to my attention that if I shrink down the cattle car the long horn cattle will no longer be able to get in so in the quest for authenticity [ya! right] it will now be hauling fruit. LOL

So here's a few more pictures and a how to for making all those slats.
I've showed this before but this project is made from slats that's about all it is.

So I glued up all the sides and bottom then sanded every thing even.


















Now here's a how to for cutting the slats.

Please pretend the door has not been cut out yet.
First I set the saw to just touch the cross bracing on the top.

Then I set the saw to make the first cut near the center of the door [you can start any where you like]










After the cut slide the door back over the blade [saw is off]
Now unlock the fence and move it out a little and put a spacer between the door and fence, now slide the fence over and lock it










Now take the spacer out and your ready to make your second cut.









Now we've made our second cut and will put the door back over the blade against the fence









Again we unlock the fence and add the spacer slide the fence over and lock it.


















Now again we're ready to cut, just keep repeating theses steps and when one sides done just flip it around and start from your last cut and off you go.


















Might pay to try it on a scrap chunk a wood to get it down pat before doing something important.

Here's where I got to before the heat ran me out of the shop.


----------



## PaulDoug

htl said:


> *Not a Cattle Car but a Fruit Car???*
> 
> It was brought to my attention that if I shrink down the cattle car the long horn cattle will no longer be able to get in so in the quest for authenticity [ya! right] it will now be hauling fruit. LOL
> 
> So here's a few more pictures and a how to for making all those slats.
> I've showed this before but this project is made from slats that's about all it is.
> 
> So I glued up all the sides and bottom then sanded every thing even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now here's a how to for cutting the slats.
> 
> Please pretend the door has not been cut out yet.
> First I set the saw to just touch the cross bracing on the top.
> 
> Then I set the saw to make the first cut near the center of the door [you can start any where you like]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the cut slide the door back over the blade [saw is off]
> Now unlock the fence and move it out a little and put a spacer between the door and fence, now slide the fence over and lock it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now take the spacer out and your ready to make your second cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've made our second cut and will put the door back over the blade against the fence
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again we unlock the fence and add the spacer slide the fence over and lock it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now again we're ready to cut, just keep repeating theses steps and when one sides done just flip it around and start from your last cut and off you go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might pay to try it on a scrap chunk a wood to get it down pat before doing something important.
> 
> Here's where I got to before the heat ran me out of the shop.


Could you put the spacer in, move/lock the fence make cut, turn the door around so the other side is against the fence, cut, so you are making two cut every time you measure with you spacer. That way you move the fence 1/2 as many times? May not be explaining it correctly but I see it in my head,,,

This is looking very good. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Not a Cattle Car but a Fruit Car???*
> 
> It was brought to my attention that if I shrink down the cattle car the long horn cattle will no longer be able to get in so in the quest for authenticity [ya! right] it will now be hauling fruit. LOL
> 
> So here's a few more pictures and a how to for making all those slats.
> I've showed this before but this project is made from slats that's about all it is.
> 
> So I glued up all the sides and bottom then sanded every thing even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now here's a how to for cutting the slats.
> 
> Please pretend the door has not been cut out yet.
> First I set the saw to just touch the cross bracing on the top.
> 
> Then I set the saw to make the first cut near the center of the door [you can start any where you like]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the cut slide the door back over the blade [saw is off]
> Now unlock the fence and move it out a little and put a spacer between the door and fence, now slide the fence over and lock it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now take the spacer out and your ready to make your second cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've made our second cut and will put the door back over the blade against the fence
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again we unlock the fence and add the spacer slide the fence over and lock it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now again we're ready to cut, just keep repeating theses steps and when one sides done just flip it around and start from your last cut and off you go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might pay to try it on a scrap chunk a wood to get it down pat before doing something important.
> 
> Here's where I got to before the heat ran me out of the shop.


ahhh …...... no choo choo for moo moos


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Not a Cattle Car but a Fruit Car???*
> 
> It was brought to my attention that if I shrink down the cattle car the long horn cattle will no longer be able to get in so in the quest for authenticity [ya! right] it will now be hauling fruit. LOL
> 
> So here's a few more pictures and a how to for making all those slats.
> I've showed this before but this project is made from slats that's about all it is.
> 
> So I glued up all the sides and bottom then sanded every thing even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now here's a how to for cutting the slats.
> 
> Please pretend the door has not been cut out yet.
> First I set the saw to just touch the cross bracing on the top.
> 
> Then I set the saw to make the first cut near the center of the door [you can start any where you like]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the cut slide the door back over the blade [saw is off]
> Now unlock the fence and move it out a little and put a spacer between the door and fence, now slide the fence over and lock it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now take the spacer out and your ready to make your second cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've made our second cut and will put the door back over the blade against the fence
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again we unlock the fence and add the spacer slide the fence over and lock it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now again we're ready to cut, just keep repeating theses steps and when one sides done just flip it around and start from your last cut and off you go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might pay to try it on a scrap chunk a wood to get it down pat before doing something important.
> 
> Here's where I got to before the heat ran me out of the shop.


Paul I think you got something there but for my feeble mind I would start forgetting if I had done one side or the other ,so I'll just work the one side then the other.
But if it works for you more power to you!!!

As you can see in the pictures on the sides I used the same trick to make lap siding and this makes great looking radiator grills.
Works great for fender floor boards too.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Not a Cattle Car but a Fruit Car???*
> 
> It was brought to my attention that if I shrink down the cattle car the long horn cattle will no longer be able to get in so in the quest for authenticity [ya! right] it will now be hauling fruit. LOL
> 
> So here's a few more pictures and a how to for making all those slats.
> I've showed this before but this project is made from slats that's about all it is.
> 
> So I glued up all the sides and bottom then sanded every thing even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now here's a how to for cutting the slats.
> 
> Please pretend the door has not been cut out yet.
> First I set the saw to just touch the cross bracing on the top.
> 
> Then I set the saw to make the first cut near the center of the door [you can start any where you like]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the cut slide the door back over the blade [saw is off]
> Now unlock the fence and move it out a little and put a spacer between the door and fence, now slide the fence over and lock it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now take the spacer out and your ready to make your second cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've made our second cut and will put the door back over the blade against the fence
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again we unlock the fence and add the spacer slide the fence over and lock it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now again we're ready to cut, just keep repeating theses steps and when one sides done just flip it around and start from your last cut and off you go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might pay to try it on a scrap chunk a wood to get it down pat before doing something important.
> 
> Here's where I got to before the heat ran me out of the shop.


Gr8hunter LOL
I first read it and it went way over my head, an hour later and still way over and just now I got it.* LOL*


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Not a Cattle Car but a Fruit Car???*
> 
> It was brought to my attention that if I shrink down the cattle car the long horn cattle will no longer be able to get in so in the quest for authenticity [ya! right] it will now be hauling fruit. LOL
> 
> So here's a few more pictures and a how to for making all those slats.
> I've showed this before but this project is made from slats that's about all it is.
> 
> So I glued up all the sides and bottom then sanded every thing even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now here's a how to for cutting the slats.
> 
> Please pretend the door has not been cut out yet.
> First I set the saw to just touch the cross bracing on the top.
> 
> Then I set the saw to make the first cut near the center of the door [you can start any where you like]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the cut slide the door back over the blade [saw is off]
> Now unlock the fence and move it out a little and put a spacer between the door and fence, now slide the fence over and lock it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now take the spacer out and your ready to make your second cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've made our second cut and will put the door back over the blade against the fence
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again we unlock the fence and add the spacer slide the fence over and lock it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now again we're ready to cut, just keep repeating theses steps and when one sides done just flip it around and start from your last cut and off you go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might pay to try it on a scrap chunk a wood to get it down pat before doing something important.
> 
> Here's where I got to before the heat ran me out of the shop.


Fruit? Geeze, I dunno. Kinda reminds me of the train cars they moved the Circus animals with ! 
.
.








.


----------



## hunter71

htl said:


> *Not a Cattle Car but a Fruit Car???*
> 
> It was brought to my attention that if I shrink down the cattle car the long horn cattle will no longer be able to get in so in the quest for authenticity [ya! right] it will now be hauling fruit. LOL
> 
> So here's a few more pictures and a how to for making all those slats.
> I've showed this before but this project is made from slats that's about all it is.
> 
> So I glued up all the sides and bottom then sanded every thing even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now here's a how to for cutting the slats.
> 
> Please pretend the door has not been cut out yet.
> First I set the saw to just touch the cross bracing on the top.
> 
> Then I set the saw to make the first cut near the center of the door [you can start any where you like]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the cut slide the door back over the blade [saw is off]
> Now unlock the fence and move it out a little and put a spacer between the door and fence, now slide the fence over and lock it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now take the spacer out and your ready to make your second cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've made our second cut and will put the door back over the blade against the fence
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again we unlock the fence and add the spacer slide the fence over and lock it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now again we're ready to cut, just keep repeating theses steps and when one sides done just flip it around and start from your last cut and off you go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might pay to try it on a scrap chunk a wood to get it down pat before doing something important.
> 
> Here's where I got to before the heat ran me out of the shop.


There is always many ways to do different projects. But when they come out as good as yours, they are all great.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Not a Cattle Car but a Fruit Car???*
> 
> It was brought to my attention that if I shrink down the cattle car the long horn cattle will no longer be able to get in so in the quest for authenticity [ya! right] it will now be hauling fruit. LOL
> 
> So here's a few more pictures and a how to for making all those slats.
> I've showed this before but this project is made from slats that's about all it is.
> 
> So I glued up all the sides and bottom then sanded every thing even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now here's a how to for cutting the slats.
> 
> Please pretend the door has not been cut out yet.
> First I set the saw to just touch the cross bracing on the top.
> 
> Then I set the saw to make the first cut near the center of the door [you can start any where you like]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the cut slide the door back over the blade [saw is off]
> Now unlock the fence and move it out a little and put a spacer between the door and fence, now slide the fence over and lock it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now take the spacer out and your ready to make your second cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've made our second cut and will put the door back over the blade against the fence
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again we unlock the fence and add the spacer slide the fence over and lock it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now again we're ready to cut, just keep repeating theses steps and when one sides done just flip it around and start from your last cut and off you go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might pay to try it on a scrap chunk a wood to get it down pat before doing something important.
> 
> Here's where I got to before the heat ran me out of the shop.


Joe it seem's like when i was a kid I had an electric train set that had a giraffe that would stick his head out of the car but there was something that made him lower it when he went under a bridge or something.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Not a Cattle Car but a Fruit Car???*
> 
> It was brought to my attention that if I shrink down the cattle car the long horn cattle will no longer be able to get in so in the quest for authenticity [ya! right] it will now be hauling fruit. LOL
> 
> So here's a few more pictures and a how to for making all those slats.
> I've showed this before but this project is made from slats that's about all it is.
> 
> So I glued up all the sides and bottom then sanded every thing even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now here's a how to for cutting the slats.
> 
> Please pretend the door has not been cut out yet.
> First I set the saw to just touch the cross bracing on the top.
> 
> Then I set the saw to make the first cut near the center of the door [you can start any where you like]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the cut slide the door back over the blade [saw is off]
> Now unlock the fence and move it out a little and put a spacer between the door and fence, now slide the fence over and lock it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now take the spacer out and your ready to make your second cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've made our second cut and will put the door back over the blade against the fence
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again we unlock the fence and add the spacer slide the fence over and lock it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now again we're ready to cut, just keep repeating theses steps and when one sides done just flip it around and start from your last cut and off you go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might pay to try it on a scrap chunk a wood to get it down pat before doing something important.
> 
> Here's where I got to before the heat ran me out of the shop.


Bruce, You are certainly steaming ahead with this project and not stopping for the curves….

Looks great sir….


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Not a Cattle Car but a Fruit Car???*
> 
> It was brought to my attention that if I shrink down the cattle car the long horn cattle will no longer be able to get in so in the quest for authenticity [ya! right] it will now be hauling fruit. LOL
> 
> So here's a few more pictures and a how to for making all those slats.
> I've showed this before but this project is made from slats that's about all it is.
> 
> So I glued up all the sides and bottom then sanded every thing even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now here's a how to for cutting the slats.
> 
> Please pretend the door has not been cut out yet.
> First I set the saw to just touch the cross bracing on the top.
> 
> Then I set the saw to make the first cut near the center of the door [you can start any where you like]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the cut slide the door back over the blade [saw is off]
> Now unlock the fence and move it out a little and put a spacer between the door and fence, now slide the fence over and lock it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now take the spacer out and your ready to make your second cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've made our second cut and will put the door back over the blade against the fence
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again we unlock the fence and add the spacer slide the fence over and lock it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now again we're ready to cut, just keep repeating theses steps and when one sides done just flip it around and start from your last cut and off you go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might pay to try it on a scrap chunk a wood to get it down pat before doing something important.
> 
> Here's where I got to before the heat ran me out of the shop.


Looking good Bruce and I'm glad with the how to.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Not a Cattle Car but a Fruit Car???*
> 
> It was brought to my attention that if I shrink down the cattle car the long horn cattle will no longer be able to get in so in the quest for authenticity [ya! right] it will now be hauling fruit. LOL
> 
> So here's a few more pictures and a how to for making all those slats.
> I've showed this before but this project is made from slats that's about all it is.
> 
> So I glued up all the sides and bottom then sanded every thing even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now here's a how to for cutting the slats.
> 
> Please pretend the door has not been cut out yet.
> First I set the saw to just touch the cross bracing on the top.
> 
> Then I set the saw to make the first cut near the center of the door [you can start any where you like]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the cut slide the door back over the blade [saw is off]
> Now unlock the fence and move it out a little and put a spacer between the door and fence, now slide the fence over and lock it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now take the spacer out and your ready to make your second cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've made our second cut and will put the door back over the blade against the fence
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again we unlock the fence and add the spacer slide the fence over and lock it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now again we're ready to cut, just keep repeating theses steps and when one sides done just flip it around and start from your last cut and off you go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might pay to try it on a scrap chunk a wood to get it down pat before doing something important.
> 
> Here's where I got to before the heat ran me out of the shop.


Joe I found it.


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Not a Cattle Car but a Fruit Car???*
> 
> It was brought to my attention that if I shrink down the cattle car the long horn cattle will no longer be able to get in so in the quest for authenticity [ya! right] it will now be hauling fruit. LOL
> 
> So here's a few more pictures and a how to for making all those slats.
> I've showed this before but this project is made from slats that's about all it is.
> 
> So I glued up all the sides and bottom then sanded every thing even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now here's a how to for cutting the slats.
> 
> Please pretend the door has not been cut out yet.
> First I set the saw to just touch the cross bracing on the top.
> 
> Then I set the saw to make the first cut near the center of the door [you can start any where you like]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the cut slide the door back over the blade [saw is off]
> Now unlock the fence and move it out a little and put a spacer between the door and fence, now slide the fence over and lock it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now take the spacer out and your ready to make your second cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've made our second cut and will put the door back over the blade against the fence
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again we unlock the fence and add the spacer slide the fence over and lock it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now again we're ready to cut, just keep repeating theses steps and when one sides done just flip it around and start from your last cut and off you go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might pay to try it on a scrap chunk a wood to get it down pat before doing something important.
> 
> Here's where I got to before the heat ran me out of the shop.





> Joe I found it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - htl


*Yup, that's what I remember too!*


----------



## bruce317

htl said:


> *Not a Cattle Car but a Fruit Car???*
> 
> It was brought to my attention that if I shrink down the cattle car the long horn cattle will no longer be able to get in so in the quest for authenticity [ya! right] it will now be hauling fruit. LOL
> 
> So here's a few more pictures and a how to for making all those slats.
> I've showed this before but this project is made from slats that's about all it is.
> 
> So I glued up all the sides and bottom then sanded every thing even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now here's a how to for cutting the slats.
> 
> Please pretend the door has not been cut out yet.
> First I set the saw to just touch the cross bracing on the top.
> 
> Then I set the saw to make the first cut near the center of the door [you can start any where you like]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the cut slide the door back over the blade [saw is off]
> Now unlock the fence and move it out a little and put a spacer between the door and fence, now slide the fence over and lock it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now take the spacer out and your ready to make your second cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've made our second cut and will put the door back over the blade against the fence
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again we unlock the fence and add the spacer slide the fence over and lock it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now again we're ready to cut, just keep repeating theses steps and when one sides done just flip it around and start from your last cut and off you go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might pay to try it on a scrap chunk a wood to get it down pat before doing something important.
> 
> Here's where I got to before the heat ran me out of the shop.


Bruce
Excellent way to join strips. Thanks!


----------



## htl

*Finishing Up the ????? Train Car*

I have been wanting to build this car for a while and finally got my chance.
I was a fun 2 1/2 day build, I really like these train car builds every thing is all square and boxy so easy to build and once you've made one or two with plans your all set to adjust the plans and make something completely different.

If I hadn't already glued the top on I would have made it in to a giraffe car with a lever to make his head come in and out of the car, but o well maybe another time.

Here's the jig I used to drill out the wheel centers.



























Then on to sanding them.









Then putting the running gear all together.


















I trimmed out the roof with walnut so there would be a little color to connect it to the other cars.



















And a shot with the caboose to show how it will match up.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Finishing Up the ????? Train Car*
> 
> I have been wanting to build this car for a while and finally got my chance.
> I was a fun 2 1/2 day build, I really like these train car builds every thing is all square and boxy so easy to build and once you've made one or two with plans your all set to adjust the plans and make something completely different.
> 
> If I hadn't already glued the top on I would have made it in to a giraffe car with a lever to make his head come in and out of the car, but o well maybe another time.
> 
> Here's the jig I used to drill out the wheel centers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to sanding them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then putting the running gear all together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I trimmed out the roof with walnut so there would be a little color to connect it to the other cars.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a shot with the caboose to show how it will match up.


it certainly does not take you long at all ….. heck half my time is waiting for glue to dry LOL
another GREAT JOB Bruce


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Finishing Up the ????? Train Car*
> 
> I have been wanting to build this car for a while and finally got my chance.
> I was a fun 2 1/2 day build, I really like these train car builds every thing is all square and boxy so easy to build and once you've made one or two with plans your all set to adjust the plans and make something completely different.
> 
> If I hadn't already glued the top on I would have made it in to a giraffe car with a lever to make his head come in and out of the car, but o well maybe another time.
> 
> Here's the jig I used to drill out the wheel centers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to sanding them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then putting the running gear all together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I trimmed out the roof with walnut so there would be a little color to connect it to the other cars.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a shot with the caboose to show how it will match up.


Super glue rules when your building models but if it was for kids would have to take more time and make it heavy duty.


----------



## bruce317

htl said:


> *Finishing Up the ????? Train Car*
> 
> I have been wanting to build this car for a while and finally got my chance.
> I was a fun 2 1/2 day build, I really like these train car builds every thing is all square and boxy so easy to build and once you've made one or two with plans your all set to adjust the plans and make something completely different.
> 
> If I hadn't already glued the top on I would have made it in to a giraffe car with a lever to make his head come in and out of the car, but o well maybe another time.
> 
> Here's the jig I used to drill out the wheel centers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to sanding them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then putting the running gear all together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I trimmed out the roof with walnut so there would be a little color to connect it to the other cars.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a shot with the caboose to show how it will match up.


Another GREAT one!


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Finishing Up the ????? Train Car*
> 
> I have been wanting to build this car for a while and finally got my chance.
> I was a fun 2 1/2 day build, I really like these train car builds every thing is all square and boxy so easy to build and once you've made one or two with plans your all set to adjust the plans and make something completely different.
> 
> If I hadn't already glued the top on I would have made it in to a giraffe car with a lever to make his head come in and out of the car, but o well maybe another time.
> 
> Here's the jig I used to drill out the wheel centers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to sanding them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then putting the running gear all together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I trimmed out the roof with walnut so there would be a little color to connect it to the other cars.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a shot with the caboose to show how it will match up.


You certainly work fast Bruce.
Saying that the quality of the workmanship is up there, well done sir…


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Finishing Up the ????? Train Car*
> 
> I have been wanting to build this car for a while and finally got my chance.
> I was a fun 2 1/2 day build, I really like these train car builds every thing is all square and boxy so easy to build and once you've made one or two with plans your all set to adjust the plans and make something completely different.
> 
> If I hadn't already glued the top on I would have made it in to a giraffe car with a lever to make his head come in and out of the car, but o well maybe another time.
> 
> Here's the jig I used to drill out the wheel centers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to sanding them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then putting the running gear all together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I trimmed out the roof with walnut so there would be a little color to connect it to the other cars.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a shot with the caboose to show how it will match up.





> ... but if it was for kids would have to take more time and make it heavy duty.
> 
> - htl


Another great build and I really like the look of all those slats.

But one quick question, how do you keep the kids still to ensure the glue sets… kiddie clamps?


----------



## hunter71

htl said:


> *Finishing Up the ????? Train Car*
> 
> I have been wanting to build this car for a while and finally got my chance.
> I was a fun 2 1/2 day build, I really like these train car builds every thing is all square and boxy so easy to build and once you've made one or two with plans your all set to adjust the plans and make something completely different.
> 
> If I hadn't already glued the top on I would have made it in to a giraffe car with a lever to make his head come in and out of the car, but o well maybe another time.
> 
> Here's the jig I used to drill out the wheel centers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to sanding them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then putting the running gear all together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I trimmed out the roof with walnut so there would be a little color to connect it to the other cars.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a shot with the caboose to show how it will match up.


Train is getting longer, looks great.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Finishing Up the ????? Train Car*
> 
> I have been wanting to build this car for a while and finally got my chance.
> I was a fun 2 1/2 day build, I really like these train car builds every thing is all square and boxy so easy to build and once you've made one or two with plans your all set to adjust the plans and make something completely different.
> 
> If I hadn't already glued the top on I would have made it in to a giraffe car with a lever to make his head come in and out of the car, but o well maybe another time.
> 
> Here's the jig I used to drill out the wheel centers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to sanding them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then putting the running gear all together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I trimmed out the roof with walnut so there would be a little color to connect it to the other cars.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a shot with the caboose to show how it will match up.


Duck tape never leave home with out it!!!

And thanks all for checking in!!!


----------



## EricFai

htl said:


> *Finishing Up the ????? Train Car*
> 
> I have been wanting to build this car for a while and finally got my chance.
> I was a fun 2 1/2 day build, I really like these train car builds every thing is all square and boxy so easy to build and once you've made one or two with plans your all set to adjust the plans and make something completely different.
> 
> If I hadn't already glued the top on I would have made it in to a giraffe car with a lever to make his head come in and out of the car, but o well maybe another time.
> 
> Here's the jig I used to drill out the wheel centers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to sanding them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then putting the running gear all together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I trimmed out the roof with walnut so there would be a little color to connect it to the other cars.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a shot with the caboose to show how it will match up.


Great work, I enjoy looking at your builds, and reading the blogs. Keep up the good work.

A few question for you here. 
Do the wheel mechanisms pivot to allow the trains to follow a curved track?
Do you use a pin to tie the individual cars together?

Years ago I build a train set (engine and 5 cars for my kids, not an elaborate thing, but turned out to be a great Christmas present. Funny thing is I still have the plans with I drew up.

Thanks for sharing


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Finishing Up the ????? Train Car*
> 
> I have been wanting to build this car for a while and finally got my chance.
> I was a fun 2 1/2 day build, I really like these train car builds every thing is all square and boxy so easy to build and once you've made one or two with plans your all set to adjust the plans and make something completely different.
> 
> If I hadn't already glued the top on I would have made it in to a giraffe car with a lever to make his head come in and out of the car, but o well maybe another time.
> 
> Here's the jig I used to drill out the wheel centers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to sanding them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then putting the running gear all together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I trimmed out the roof with walnut so there would be a little color to connect it to the other cars.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a shot with the caboose to show how it will match up.


Eric Check out the last picture, it's a gripper style system, no pins needed.


----------



## htl

*Hummer Wheels Jig*

Got the plans for the Hummer and it's about time to give it a try.
There are some outstanding Hummer projects on here so have lots a great examples to look to for inspiration.

The first thing up for modding is going to be the wheels.
This is the main reason I'm building this, been wanting to make some of those mudder tires. LOL

I'm afraid I'm like Ducky there's just something about a cool set a wheels!!!

What got me started was seeing a post about building the jig for the tires over at woodworkforums.
http://www.woodworkforums.com/f174/wheel-jig-206333

Here's what it's all about.









His jig and the one I made are based off the jig that comes with the Toys And Joys plans.

The miter gauge is set at 60 degrees for this project.

*As always there's a hundred ways to do this but this is just one of them.*

First up is to build a toothed indexing wheel to be used to set the distance between the treads, this is the same size as the tire 4 1/4" 
Here is the wheel and indexer taped together after the tread had been cut..










First copy, print, then cut the wheel pattern off the plans to some 3/4 plywood[I used particleboard don't]and make a wheel pattern.
[The cuts for the treads are set for 10 degrees]

Then as you can see in the picture made a jig using my sliding fence, there is a hole drilled down through the top plywood brace into the center of the wheel pattern and a dowel is used to make a pivot point.

When I screwed the plywood down to the sled to hold the wheel bracket it was so tight that it was hard to turn the wheel for the next cut so worked out really nice and safe for the cutting.




























Now with this set up you can cut the grooves for our indexing wheel.










Now make the 8 wheel halves and centers. [make extras]


















Now some shots of the miter gauge set up.


















Here you can see a bolt locked to the miter gauge arm so now you can place the indexing wheel we made and a wheel blank, lock them down to cut.
You can see above this is an indexing lock that works with the wheel we made to adjust where the treads will be cut.
The lock is adjustable so you can set how far it seats in the wheel.

*[Remember when your setting up for the cut the center of the tire is what needs to center the blade]*










If I do this again I'll make the lock pointer smaller.








The numbers on the indexer are there to help me not miss any grooves.


















You need to loosen the tire to move to the next groove so I used double sided tape to keep the tire and indexing wheels in line.

















You may need to use a backer board to keep from having tearout.

























I know there's more that could be added but maybe this will help some one.

Tomorrow we'll get to the fun stuff.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Hummer Wheels Jig*
> 
> Got the plans for the Hummer and it's about time to give it a try.
> There are some outstanding Hummer projects on here so have lots a great examples to look to for inspiration.
> 
> The first thing up for modding is going to be the wheels.
> This is the main reason I'm building this, been wanting to make some of those mudder tires. LOL
> 
> I'm afraid I'm like Ducky there's just something about a cool set a wheels!!!
> 
> What got me started was seeing a post about building the jig for the tires over at woodworkforums.
> http://www.woodworkforums.com/f174/wheel-jig-206333
> 
> Here's what it's all about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> His jig and the one I made are based off the jig that comes with the Toys And Joys plans.
> 
> The miter gauge is set at 60 degrees for this project.
> 
> *As always there's a hundred ways to do this but this is just one of them.*
> 
> First up is to build a toothed indexing wheel to be used to set the distance between the treads, this is the same size as the tire 4 1/4"
> Here is the wheel and indexer taped together after the tread had been cut..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First copy, print, then cut the wheel pattern off the plans to some 3/4 plywood[I used particleboard don't]and make a wheel pattern.
> [The cuts for the treads are set for 10 degrees]
> 
> Then as you can see in the picture made a jig using my sliding fence, there is a hole drilled down through the top plywood brace into the center of the wheel pattern and a dowel is used to make a pivot point.
> 
> When I screwed the plywood down to the sled to hold the wheel bracket it was so tight that it was hard to turn the wheel for the next cut so worked out really nice and safe for the cutting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with this set up you can cut the grooves for our indexing wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now make the 8 wheel halves and centers. [make extras]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now some shots of the miter gauge set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see a bolt locked to the miter gauge arm so now you can place the indexing wheel we made and a wheel blank, lock them down to cut.
> You can see above this is an indexing lock that works with the wheel we made to adjust where the treads will be cut.
> The lock is adjustable so you can set how far it seats in the wheel.
> 
> *[Remember when your setting up for the cut the center of the tire is what needs to center the blade]*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I do this again I'll make the lock pointer smaller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The numbers on the indexer are there to help me not miss any grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You need to loosen the tire to move to the next groove so I used double sided tape to keep the tire and indexing wheels in line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may need to use a backer board to keep from having tearout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know there's more that could be added but maybe this will help some one.
> 
> Tomorrow we'll get to the fun stuff.


Very cool wheel Bruce…


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Hummer Wheels Jig*
> 
> Got the plans for the Hummer and it's about time to give it a try.
> There are some outstanding Hummer projects on here so have lots a great examples to look to for inspiration.
> 
> The first thing up for modding is going to be the wheels.
> This is the main reason I'm building this, been wanting to make some of those mudder tires. LOL
> 
> I'm afraid I'm like Ducky there's just something about a cool set a wheels!!!
> 
> What got me started was seeing a post about building the jig for the tires over at woodworkforums.
> http://www.woodworkforums.com/f174/wheel-jig-206333
> 
> Here's what it's all about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> His jig and the one I made are based off the jig that comes with the Toys And Joys plans.
> 
> The miter gauge is set at 60 degrees for this project.
> 
> *As always there's a hundred ways to do this but this is just one of them.*
> 
> First up is to build a toothed indexing wheel to be used to set the distance between the treads, this is the same size as the tire 4 1/4"
> Here is the wheel and indexer taped together after the tread had been cut..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First copy, print, then cut the wheel pattern off the plans to some 3/4 plywood[I used particleboard don't]and make a wheel pattern.
> [The cuts for the treads are set for 10 degrees]
> 
> Then as you can see in the picture made a jig using my sliding fence, there is a hole drilled down through the top plywood brace into the center of the wheel pattern and a dowel is used to make a pivot point.
> 
> When I screwed the plywood down to the sled to hold the wheel bracket it was so tight that it was hard to turn the wheel for the next cut so worked out really nice and safe for the cutting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with this set up you can cut the grooves for our indexing wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now make the 8 wheel halves and centers. [make extras]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now some shots of the miter gauge set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see a bolt locked to the miter gauge arm so now you can place the indexing wheel we made and a wheel blank, lock them down to cut.
> You can see above this is an indexing lock that works with the wheel we made to adjust where the treads will be cut.
> The lock is adjustable so you can set how far it seats in the wheel.
> 
> *[Remember when your setting up for the cut the center of the tire is what needs to center the blade]*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I do this again I'll make the lock pointer smaller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The numbers on the indexer are there to help me not miss any grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You need to loosen the tire to move to the next groove so I used double sided tape to keep the tire and indexing wheels in line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may need to use a backer board to keep from having tearout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know there's more that could be added but maybe this will help some one.
> 
> Tomorrow we'll get to the fun stuff.


love this idea GREAT LOOKING wheels 
just having some trouble signing up to woodworking forum 
I need something to make better wheels


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer Wheels Jig*
> 
> Got the plans for the Hummer and it's about time to give it a try.
> There are some outstanding Hummer projects on here so have lots a great examples to look to for inspiration.
> 
> The first thing up for modding is going to be the wheels.
> This is the main reason I'm building this, been wanting to make some of those mudder tires. LOL
> 
> I'm afraid I'm like Ducky there's just something about a cool set a wheels!!!
> 
> What got me started was seeing a post about building the jig for the tires over at woodworkforums.
> http://www.woodworkforums.com/f174/wheel-jig-206333
> 
> Here's what it's all about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> His jig and the one I made are based off the jig that comes with the Toys And Joys plans.
> 
> The miter gauge is set at 60 degrees for this project.
> 
> *As always there's a hundred ways to do this but this is just one of them.*
> 
> First up is to build a toothed indexing wheel to be used to set the distance between the treads, this is the same size as the tire 4 1/4"
> Here is the wheel and indexer taped together after the tread had been cut..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First copy, print, then cut the wheel pattern off the plans to some 3/4 plywood[I used particleboard don't]and make a wheel pattern.
> [The cuts for the treads are set for 10 degrees]
> 
> Then as you can see in the picture made a jig using my sliding fence, there is a hole drilled down through the top plywood brace into the center of the wheel pattern and a dowel is used to make a pivot point.
> 
> When I screwed the plywood down to the sled to hold the wheel bracket it was so tight that it was hard to turn the wheel for the next cut so worked out really nice and safe for the cutting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with this set up you can cut the grooves for our indexing wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now make the 8 wheel halves and centers. [make extras]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now some shots of the miter gauge set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see a bolt locked to the miter gauge arm so now you can place the indexing wheel we made and a wheel blank, lock them down to cut.
> You can see above this is an indexing lock that works with the wheel we made to adjust where the treads will be cut.
> The lock is adjustable so you can set how far it seats in the wheel.
> 
> *[Remember when your setting up for the cut the center of the tire is what needs to center the blade]*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I do this again I'll make the lock pointer smaller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The numbers on the indexer are there to help me not miss any grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You need to loosen the tire to move to the next groove so I used double sided tape to keep the tire and indexing wheels in line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may need to use a backer board to keep from having tearout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know there's more that could be added but maybe this will help some one.
> 
> Tomorrow we'll get to the fun stuff.


Gr8hunter I sure love the wheels on you new bob cat that's one cute project.

Check out some of Dutchy's tire blogs have really helped my wheel making and all round model work..


----------



## JPJ

htl said:


> *Hummer Wheels Jig*
> 
> Got the plans for the Hummer and it's about time to give it a try.
> There are some outstanding Hummer projects on here so have lots a great examples to look to for inspiration.
> 
> The first thing up for modding is going to be the wheels.
> This is the main reason I'm building this, been wanting to make some of those mudder tires. LOL
> 
> I'm afraid I'm like Ducky there's just something about a cool set a wheels!!!
> 
> What got me started was seeing a post about building the jig for the tires over at woodworkforums.
> http://www.woodworkforums.com/f174/wheel-jig-206333
> 
> Here's what it's all about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> His jig and the one I made are based off the jig that comes with the Toys And Joys plans.
> 
> The miter gauge is set at 60 degrees for this project.
> 
> *As always there's a hundred ways to do this but this is just one of them.*
> 
> First up is to build a toothed indexing wheel to be used to set the distance between the treads, this is the same size as the tire 4 1/4"
> Here is the wheel and indexer taped together after the tread had been cut..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First copy, print, then cut the wheel pattern off the plans to some 3/4 plywood[I used particleboard don't]and make a wheel pattern.
> [The cuts for the treads are set for 10 degrees]
> 
> Then as you can see in the picture made a jig using my sliding fence, there is a hole drilled down through the top plywood brace into the center of the wheel pattern and a dowel is used to make a pivot point.
> 
> When I screwed the plywood down to the sled to hold the wheel bracket it was so tight that it was hard to turn the wheel for the next cut so worked out really nice and safe for the cutting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with this set up you can cut the grooves for our indexing wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now make the 8 wheel halves and centers. [make extras]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now some shots of the miter gauge set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see a bolt locked to the miter gauge arm so now you can place the indexing wheel we made and a wheel blank, lock them down to cut.
> You can see above this is an indexing lock that works with the wheel we made to adjust where the treads will be cut.
> The lock is adjustable so you can set how far it seats in the wheel.
> 
> *[Remember when your setting up for the cut the center of the tire is what needs to center the blade]*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I do this again I'll make the lock pointer smaller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The numbers on the indexer are there to help me not miss any grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You need to loosen the tire to move to the next groove so I used double sided tape to keep the tire and indexing wheels in line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may need to use a backer board to keep from having tearout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know there's more that could be added but maybe this will help some one.
> 
> Tomorrow we'll get to the fun stuff.


Thanks for the blog I'll be watching.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Hummer Wheels Jig*
> 
> Got the plans for the Hummer and it's about time to give it a try.
> There are some outstanding Hummer projects on here so have lots a great examples to look to for inspiration.
> 
> The first thing up for modding is going to be the wheels.
> This is the main reason I'm building this, been wanting to make some of those mudder tires. LOL
> 
> I'm afraid I'm like Ducky there's just something about a cool set a wheels!!!
> 
> What got me started was seeing a post about building the jig for the tires over at woodworkforums.
> http://www.woodworkforums.com/f174/wheel-jig-206333
> 
> Here's what it's all about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> His jig and the one I made are based off the jig that comes with the Toys And Joys plans.
> 
> The miter gauge is set at 60 degrees for this project.
> 
> *As always there's a hundred ways to do this but this is just one of them.*
> 
> First up is to build a toothed indexing wheel to be used to set the distance between the treads, this is the same size as the tire 4 1/4"
> Here is the wheel and indexer taped together after the tread had been cut..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First copy, print, then cut the wheel pattern off the plans to some 3/4 plywood[I used particleboard don't]and make a wheel pattern.
> [The cuts for the treads are set for 10 degrees]
> 
> Then as you can see in the picture made a jig using my sliding fence, there is a hole drilled down through the top plywood brace into the center of the wheel pattern and a dowel is used to make a pivot point.
> 
> When I screwed the plywood down to the sled to hold the wheel bracket it was so tight that it was hard to turn the wheel for the next cut so worked out really nice and safe for the cutting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with this set up you can cut the grooves for our indexing wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now make the 8 wheel halves and centers. [make extras]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now some shots of the miter gauge set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see a bolt locked to the miter gauge arm so now you can place the indexing wheel we made and a wheel blank, lock them down to cut.
> You can see above this is an indexing lock that works with the wheel we made to adjust where the treads will be cut.
> The lock is adjustable so you can set how far it seats in the wheel.
> 
> *[Remember when your setting up for the cut the center of the tire is what needs to center the blade]*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I do this again I'll make the lock pointer smaller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The numbers on the indexer are there to help me not miss any grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You need to loosen the tire to move to the next groove so I used double sided tape to keep the tire and indexing wheels in line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may need to use a backer board to keep from having tearout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know there's more that could be added but maybe this will help some one.
> 
> Tomorrow we'll get to the fun stuff.


#4, you remind me of the fairy tale "*The Princess and the Pea*". It's not that you are a *Princess* or you *pee* a lot but you must walk on lawn seeds as you don't let the "*grass grow under your feet*".

Nice jig… watch out for the *lightning* as you've already stolen my* thunder *(I'm working on one as well, from the same article… good take.)


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer Wheels Jig*
> 
> Got the plans for the Hummer and it's about time to give it a try.
> There are some outstanding Hummer projects on here so have lots a great examples to look to for inspiration.
> 
> The first thing up for modding is going to be the wheels.
> This is the main reason I'm building this, been wanting to make some of those mudder tires. LOL
> 
> I'm afraid I'm like Ducky there's just something about a cool set a wheels!!!
> 
> What got me started was seeing a post about building the jig for the tires over at woodworkforums.
> http://www.woodworkforums.com/f174/wheel-jig-206333
> 
> Here's what it's all about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> His jig and the one I made are based off the jig that comes with the Toys And Joys plans.
> 
> The miter gauge is set at 60 degrees for this project.
> 
> *As always there's a hundred ways to do this but this is just one of them.*
> 
> First up is to build a toothed indexing wheel to be used to set the distance between the treads, this is the same size as the tire 4 1/4"
> Here is the wheel and indexer taped together after the tread had been cut..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First copy, print, then cut the wheel pattern off the plans to some 3/4 plywood[I used particleboard don't]and make a wheel pattern.
> [The cuts for the treads are set for 10 degrees]
> 
> Then as you can see in the picture made a jig using my sliding fence, there is a hole drilled down through the top plywood brace into the center of the wheel pattern and a dowel is used to make a pivot point.
> 
> When I screwed the plywood down to the sled to hold the wheel bracket it was so tight that it was hard to turn the wheel for the next cut so worked out really nice and safe for the cutting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with this set up you can cut the grooves for our indexing wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now make the 8 wheel halves and centers. [make extras]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now some shots of the miter gauge set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see a bolt locked to the miter gauge arm so now you can place the indexing wheel we made and a wheel blank, lock them down to cut.
> You can see above this is an indexing lock that works with the wheel we made to adjust where the treads will be cut.
> The lock is adjustable so you can set how far it seats in the wheel.
> 
> *[Remember when your setting up for the cut the center of the tire is what needs to center the blade]*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I do this again I'll make the lock pointer smaller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The numbers on the indexer are there to help me not miss any grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You need to loosen the tire to move to the next groove so I used double sided tape to keep the tire and indexing wheels in line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may need to use a backer board to keep from having tearout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know there's more that could be added but maybe this will help some one.
> 
> Tomorrow we'll get to the fun stuff.


From what I've seen of your other jigs it will be much better than the one use jig I made.
Sorry Ducky I had no idea you had something in the works.
I already had one in mind before his post, it just kinda pushed me over the edge to get er done.
What are you making the wheels for may I ask.
You've already made the Hummer and I was thinking you were on a construction project?

That new Power Wagon sure looks sweet and would be a fun build.
Again sorry!!!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Hummer Wheels Jig*
> 
> Got the plans for the Hummer and it's about time to give it a try.
> There are some outstanding Hummer projects on here so have lots a great examples to look to for inspiration.
> 
> The first thing up for modding is going to be the wheels.
> This is the main reason I'm building this, been wanting to make some of those mudder tires. LOL
> 
> I'm afraid I'm like Ducky there's just something about a cool set a wheels!!!
> 
> What got me started was seeing a post about building the jig for the tires over at woodworkforums.
> http://www.woodworkforums.com/f174/wheel-jig-206333
> 
> Here's what it's all about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> His jig and the one I made are based off the jig that comes with the Toys And Joys plans.
> 
> The miter gauge is set at 60 degrees for this project.
> 
> *As always there's a hundred ways to do this but this is just one of them.*
> 
> First up is to build a toothed indexing wheel to be used to set the distance between the treads, this is the same size as the tire 4 1/4"
> Here is the wheel and indexer taped together after the tread had been cut..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First copy, print, then cut the wheel pattern off the plans to some 3/4 plywood[I used particleboard don't]and make a wheel pattern.
> [The cuts for the treads are set for 10 degrees]
> 
> Then as you can see in the picture made a jig using my sliding fence, there is a hole drilled down through the top plywood brace into the center of the wheel pattern and a dowel is used to make a pivot point.
> 
> When I screwed the plywood down to the sled to hold the wheel bracket it was so tight that it was hard to turn the wheel for the next cut so worked out really nice and safe for the cutting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with this set up you can cut the grooves for our indexing wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now make the 8 wheel halves and centers. [make extras]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now some shots of the miter gauge set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see a bolt locked to the miter gauge arm so now you can place the indexing wheel we made and a wheel blank, lock them down to cut.
> You can see above this is an indexing lock that works with the wheel we made to adjust where the treads will be cut.
> The lock is adjustable so you can set how far it seats in the wheel.
> 
> *[Remember when your setting up for the cut the center of the tire is what needs to center the blade]*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I do this again I'll make the lock pointer smaller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The numbers on the indexer are there to help me not miss any grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You need to loosen the tire to move to the next groove so I used double sided tape to keep the tire and indexing wheels in line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may need to use a backer board to keep from having tearout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know there's more that could be added but maybe this will help some one.
> 
> Tomorrow we'll get to the fun stuff.


Actually you've given me a few more ideas re the jig. It was actually Dallas diagrams that got me going as I thought I had an ally in another Sketchup user (unfortunately he's one of those weird CAD culture followers).

I have already made the wheels for the front end loader I started before the gummy ankle, but as you, I have always considered a generic jig but was too lazy to design. Dallas' (and your ) contributions gave me something to plagerise and as I have enough plans to ensure I will need to make more wheels, Iit's just another excuse to use SketchUp (and keep out from under the missus' feet). Just finishing the import of the Backhoe Tractor so after that the PC would only be boat anchor fodder otherwise.


----------



## hunter71

htl said:


> *Hummer Wheels Jig*
> 
> Got the plans for the Hummer and it's about time to give it a try.
> There are some outstanding Hummer projects on here so have lots a great examples to look to for inspiration.
> 
> The first thing up for modding is going to be the wheels.
> This is the main reason I'm building this, been wanting to make some of those mudder tires. LOL
> 
> I'm afraid I'm like Ducky there's just something about a cool set a wheels!!!
> 
> What got me started was seeing a post about building the jig for the tires over at woodworkforums.
> http://www.woodworkforums.com/f174/wheel-jig-206333
> 
> Here's what it's all about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> His jig and the one I made are based off the jig that comes with the Toys And Joys plans.
> 
> The miter gauge is set at 60 degrees for this project.
> 
> *As always there's a hundred ways to do this but this is just one of them.*
> 
> First up is to build a toothed indexing wheel to be used to set the distance between the treads, this is the same size as the tire 4 1/4"
> Here is the wheel and indexer taped together after the tread had been cut..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First copy, print, then cut the wheel pattern off the plans to some 3/4 plywood[I used particleboard don't]and make a wheel pattern.
> [The cuts for the treads are set for 10 degrees]
> 
> Then as you can see in the picture made a jig using my sliding fence, there is a hole drilled down through the top plywood brace into the center of the wheel pattern and a dowel is used to make a pivot point.
> 
> When I screwed the plywood down to the sled to hold the wheel bracket it was so tight that it was hard to turn the wheel for the next cut so worked out really nice and safe for the cutting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with this set up you can cut the grooves for our indexing wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now make the 8 wheel halves and centers. [make extras]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now some shots of the miter gauge set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see a bolt locked to the miter gauge arm so now you can place the indexing wheel we made and a wheel blank, lock them down to cut.
> You can see above this is an indexing lock that works with the wheel we made to adjust where the treads will be cut.
> The lock is adjustable so you can set how far it seats in the wheel.
> 
> *[Remember when your setting up for the cut the center of the tire is what needs to center the blade]*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I do this again I'll make the lock pointer smaller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The numbers on the indexer are there to help me not miss any grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You need to loosen the tire to move to the next groove so I used double sided tape to keep the tire and indexing wheels in line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may need to use a backer board to keep from having tearout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know there's more that could be added but maybe this will help some one.
> 
> Tomorrow we'll get to the fun stuff.


Making the jigs might be the best part. I took a small table saw and dedicated it to my wheel jig's. Changing blades and having it dedicated doesn't tie up my Unisaw. Have fun, keep posting. Sharing ideas is fun.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Hummer Wheels Jig*
> 
> Got the plans for the Hummer and it's about time to give it a try.
> There are some outstanding Hummer projects on here so have lots a great examples to look to for inspiration.
> 
> The first thing up for modding is going to be the wheels.
> This is the main reason I'm building this, been wanting to make some of those mudder tires. LOL
> 
> I'm afraid I'm like Ducky there's just something about a cool set a wheels!!!
> 
> What got me started was seeing a post about building the jig for the tires over at woodworkforums.
> http://www.woodworkforums.com/f174/wheel-jig-206333
> 
> Here's what it's all about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> His jig and the one I made are based off the jig that comes with the Toys And Joys plans.
> 
> The miter gauge is set at 60 degrees for this project.
> 
> *As always there's a hundred ways to do this but this is just one of them.*
> 
> First up is to build a toothed indexing wheel to be used to set the distance between the treads, this is the same size as the tire 4 1/4"
> Here is the wheel and indexer taped together after the tread had been cut..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First copy, print, then cut the wheel pattern off the plans to some 3/4 plywood[I used particleboard don't]and make a wheel pattern.
> [The cuts for the treads are set for 10 degrees]
> 
> Then as you can see in the picture made a jig using my sliding fence, there is a hole drilled down through the top plywood brace into the center of the wheel pattern and a dowel is used to make a pivot point.
> 
> When I screwed the plywood down to the sled to hold the wheel bracket it was so tight that it was hard to turn the wheel for the next cut so worked out really nice and safe for the cutting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with this set up you can cut the grooves for our indexing wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now make the 8 wheel halves and centers. [make extras]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now some shots of the miter gauge set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see a bolt locked to the miter gauge arm so now you can place the indexing wheel we made and a wheel blank, lock them down to cut.
> You can see above this is an indexing lock that works with the wheel we made to adjust where the treads will be cut.
> The lock is adjustable so you can set how far it seats in the wheel.
> 
> *[Remember when your setting up for the cut the center of the tire is what needs to center the blade]*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I do this again I'll make the lock pointer smaller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The numbers on the indexer are there to help me not miss any grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You need to loosen the tire to move to the next groove so I used double sided tape to keep the tire and indexing wheels in line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may need to use a backer board to keep from having tearout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know there's more that could be added but maybe this will help some one.
> 
> Tomorrow we'll get to the fun stuff.





> ... I took a small table saw and dedicated it to my wheel jig s. Ch…
> 
> - hunter71


I certainly would like a looksee atit. However, rather than kidnap this blog for out nefarious deeds, any chance of posting under Dutchy's gallery and keep it where we can all remember. Until our chest beating thread gets launced, we might as well link the hints there so we have them grouped in one place for quick access, unless there are better interim ideas. Anyway it'll give Dutchy something to do when he gets back from his dirty weekend…


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer Wheels Jig*
> 
> Got the plans for the Hummer and it's about time to give it a try.
> There are some outstanding Hummer projects on here so have lots a great examples to look to for inspiration.
> 
> The first thing up for modding is going to be the wheels.
> This is the main reason I'm building this, been wanting to make some of those mudder tires. LOL
> 
> I'm afraid I'm like Ducky there's just something about a cool set a wheels!!!
> 
> What got me started was seeing a post about building the jig for the tires over at woodworkforums.
> http://www.woodworkforums.com/f174/wheel-jig-206333
> 
> Here's what it's all about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> His jig and the one I made are based off the jig that comes with the Toys And Joys plans.
> 
> The miter gauge is set at 60 degrees for this project.
> 
> *As always there's a hundred ways to do this but this is just one of them.*
> 
> First up is to build a toothed indexing wheel to be used to set the distance between the treads, this is the same size as the tire 4 1/4"
> Here is the wheel and indexer taped together after the tread had been cut..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First copy, print, then cut the wheel pattern off the plans to some 3/4 plywood[I used particleboard don't]and make a wheel pattern.
> [The cuts for the treads are set for 10 degrees]
> 
> Then as you can see in the picture made a jig using my sliding fence, there is a hole drilled down through the top plywood brace into the center of the wheel pattern and a dowel is used to make a pivot point.
> 
> When I screwed the plywood down to the sled to hold the wheel bracket it was so tight that it was hard to turn the wheel for the next cut so worked out really nice and safe for the cutting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with this set up you can cut the grooves for our indexing wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now make the 8 wheel halves and centers. [make extras]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now some shots of the miter gauge set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see a bolt locked to the miter gauge arm so now you can place the indexing wheel we made and a wheel blank, lock them down to cut.
> You can see above this is an indexing lock that works with the wheel we made to adjust where the treads will be cut.
> The lock is adjustable so you can set how far it seats in the wheel.
> 
> *[Remember when your setting up for the cut the center of the tire is what needs to center the blade]*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I do this again I'll make the lock pointer smaller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The numbers on the indexer are there to help me not miss any grooves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You need to loosen the tire to move to the next groove so I used double sided tape to keep the tire and indexing wheels in line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may need to use a backer board to keep from having tearout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know there's more that could be added but maybe this will help some one.
> 
> Tomorrow we'll get to the fun stuff.


You're right on the money there hunter71.
I have as much fun on here trying very hard to make myself come across in a logical manner as I do trying to get the wood to do my bidding. lol

It's funny but Ducky it was your beautiful jigs that got me thinking about a wheel jig then I saw Dallas's it put me in high gear to get er done.
I had been putting off the Hummer but you two got my mind in the right place to tackle it.

And Ducky I hope you will let me in on the plans when they come to fruit or is it a vegetable?.


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Hummer Wheels Jig*
> 
> Got the plans for the Hummer and it's about time to give it a try.
> There are some outstanding Hummer projects on here so have lots a great examples to look to for inspiration.
> 
> The first thing up for modding is going to be the wheels.
> This is the main reason I'm building this, been wanting to make some of those mudder tires. LOL
> 
> I'm afraid I'm like Ducky there's just something about a cool set a wheels!!!
> 
> What got me started was seeing a post about building the jig for the tires over at woodworkforums.
> http://www.woodworkforums.com/f174/wheel-jig-206333
> 
> Here's what it's all about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> His jig and the one I made are based off the jig that comes with the Toys And Joys plans.
> 
> The miter gauge is set at 60 degrees for this project.
> 
> *As always there's a hundred ways to do this but this is just one of them.*
> 
> First up is to build a toothed indexing wheel to be used to set the distance between the treads, this is the same size as the tire 4 1/4"
> Here is the wheel and indexer taped together after the tread had been cut..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First copy, print, then cut the wheel pattern off the plans to some 3/4 plywood[I used particleboard don't]and make a wheel pattern.
> [The cuts for the treads are set for 10 degrees]
> 
> Then as you can see in the picture made a jig using my sliding fence, there is a hole drilled down through the top plywood brace into the center of the wheel pattern and a dowel is used to make a pivot point.
> 
> When I screwed the plywood down to the sled to hold the wheel bracket it was so tight that it was hard to turn the wheel for the next cut so worked out really nice and safe for the cutting.
> 
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> Now with this set up you can cut the grooves for our indexing wheel.
> 
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> Now make the 8 wheel halves and centers. [make extras]
> 
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> Now some shots of the miter gauge set up.
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> 
> Here you can see a bolt locked to the miter gauge arm so now you can place the indexing wheel we made and a wheel blank, lock them down to cut.
> You can see above this is an indexing lock that works with the wheel we made to adjust where the treads will be cut.
> The lock is adjustable so you can set how far it seats in the wheel.
> 
> *[Remember when your setting up for the cut the center of the tire is what needs to center the blade]*
> 
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> If I do this again I'll make the lock pointer smaller.
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> The numbers on the indexer are there to help me not miss any grooves.
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> You need to loosen the tire to move to the next groove so I used double sided tape to keep the tire and indexing wheels in line.
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> You may need to use a backer board to keep from having tearout.
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> I know there's more that could be added but maybe this will help some one.
> 
> Tomorrow we'll get to the fun stuff.


Looking good keep up the good work


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## htl

*Hummer Wheels Jig Part 2 & 3*

My last two projects have been mostly of oak and where that oak came from was a queen size platform bed I made back around 1995?
I was out scrounging a couple a months ago and came across a man putting out a very nice queen size bed, got it for the lumber but once the wife saw it and I knew she would she started cleaning it up and 2 hours later she had a new bed. LOL
So that's why I got to building with oak and here's the last part of it, I should have took pictures of the victim but forgot to.










Sanding the rims to fit inside the tire.








Here some pictures of the parts and I can see where if you were building 3 or more of these projects at one time you better be really organized or things would get out of control very quickly.



























Made a jig to drill the lag bolts.
Have pivoting point so hole will always be at the same distance from the outside.
I made a pattern and would set the wood under it drill the first hole and then put a pin in it to keep the pattern and wood matched up then would go to the other side of the pattern and drill another hole and add a pin now the pattern will stay where it should.





































I cut over 60 of those bolts and drilled that many holes and glue that many parts to come up with this.









I didn't use tooth picks this time tried some 1/8" dowels just a little bigger and hope they don't show up so white when done.










I still need to glue in the rim and the bolt center but not sure how far out I want the rim to be yet so will just wait on the hummer to tell me what it wants.
So they're all sanded and ready for the truck.




































I feel like I put more work in these 6 wheels than I did the cattle car and Lincoln combined.
Not counting the Lincoln's wheels in that. lol

So now we start the Hummer.


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## hunter71

htl said:


> *Hummer Wheels Jig Part 2 & 3*
> 
> My last two projects have been mostly of oak and where that oak came from was a queen size platform bed I made back around 1995?
> I was out scrounging a couple a months ago and came across a man putting out a very nice queen size bed, got it for the lumber but once the wife saw it and I knew she would she started cleaning it up and 2 hours later she had a new bed. LOL
> So that's why I got to building with oak and here's the last part of it, I should have took pictures of the victim but forgot to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sanding the rims to fit inside the tire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here some pictures of the parts and I can see where if you were building 3 or more of these projects at one time you better be really organized or things would get out of control very quickly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made a jig to drill the lag bolts.
> Have pivoting point so hole will always be at the same distance from the outside.
> I made a pattern and would set the wood under it drill the first hole and then put a pin in it to keep the pattern and wood matched up then would go to the other side of the pattern and drill another hole and add a pin now the pattern will stay where it should.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> I cut over 60 of those bolts and drilled that many holes and glue that many parts to come up with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't use tooth picks this time tried some 1/8" dowels just a little bigger and hope they don't show up so white when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to glue in the rim and the bolt center but not sure how far out I want the rim to be yet so will just wait on the hummer to tell me what it wants.
> So they're all sanded and ready for the truck.
> 
> 
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> 
> I feel like I put more work in these 6 wheels than I did the cattle car and Lincoln combined.
> Not counting the Lincoln's wheels in that. lol
> 
> So now we start the Hummer.


Very helpfull guide. Like you always say, "there are 100 ways…........"


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## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer Wheels Jig Part 2 & 3*
> 
> My last two projects have been mostly of oak and where that oak came from was a queen size platform bed I made back around 1995?
> I was out scrounging a couple a months ago and came across a man putting out a very nice queen size bed, got it for the lumber but once the wife saw it and I knew she would she started cleaning it up and 2 hours later she had a new bed. LOL
> So that's why I got to building with oak and here's the last part of it, I should have took pictures of the victim but forgot to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sanding the rims to fit inside the tire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here some pictures of the parts and I can see where if you were building 3 or more of these projects at one time you better be really organized or things would get out of control very quickly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made a jig to drill the lag bolts.
> Have pivoting point so hole will always be at the same distance from the outside.
> I made a pattern and would set the wood under it drill the first hole and then put a pin in it to keep the pattern and wood matched up then would go to the other side of the pattern and drill another hole and add a pin now the pattern will stay where it should.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> I cut over 60 of those bolts and drilled that many holes and glue that many parts to come up with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't use tooth picks this time tried some 1/8" dowels just a little bigger and hope they don't show up so white when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to glue in the rim and the bolt center but not sure how far out I want the rim to be yet so will just wait on the hummer to tell me what it wants.
> So they're all sanded and ready for the truck.
> 
> 
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> 
> I feel like I put more work in these 6 wheels than I did the cattle car and Lincoln combined.
> Not counting the Lincoln's wheels in that. lol
> 
> So now we start the Hummer.


Thanks hunter!
I see all these wonderful hummers and other models and wonder how they get it done, well I'll never know but maybe some will get some help or at least have a better understanding of what's involved.

#4 over and out


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Hummer Wheels Jig Part 2 & 3*
> 
> My last two projects have been mostly of oak and where that oak came from was a queen size platform bed I made back around 1995?
> I was out scrounging a couple a months ago and came across a man putting out a very nice queen size bed, got it for the lumber but once the wife saw it and I knew she would she started cleaning it up and 2 hours later she had a new bed. LOL
> So that's why I got to building with oak and here's the last part of it, I should have took pictures of the victim but forgot to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sanding the rims to fit inside the tire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here some pictures of the parts and I can see where if you were building 3 or more of these projects at one time you better be really organized or things would get out of control very quickly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made a jig to drill the lag bolts.
> Have pivoting point so hole will always be at the same distance from the outside.
> I made a pattern and would set the wood under it drill the first hole and then put a pin in it to keep the pattern and wood matched up then would go to the other side of the pattern and drill another hole and add a pin now the pattern will stay where it should.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut over 60 of those bolts and drilled that many holes and glue that many parts to come up with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't use tooth picks this time tried some 1/8" dowels just a little bigger and hope they don't show up so white when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to glue in the rim and the bolt center but not sure how far out I want the rim to be yet so will just wait on the hummer to tell me what it wants.
> So they're all sanded and ready for the truck.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> I feel like I put more work in these 6 wheels than I did the cattle car and Lincoln combined.
> Not counting the Lincoln's wheels in that. lol
> 
> So now we start the Hummer.


Nice wheels, again. Your treading pattern sure looks better than the T&J suggestion. Hope you didn't err like me and make 4 wheels of the same side. After making the complimentary side I have a spare set for another hummer however, they may be wasted as I would use your pattern if I ever made another.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Hummer Wheels Jig Part 2 & 3*
> 
> My last two projects have been mostly of oak and where that oak came from was a queen size platform bed I made back around 1995?
> I was out scrounging a couple a months ago and came across a man putting out a very nice queen size bed, got it for the lumber but once the wife saw it and I knew she would she started cleaning it up and 2 hours later she had a new bed. LOL
> So that's why I got to building with oak and here's the last part of it, I should have took pictures of the victim but forgot to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sanding the rims to fit inside the tire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here some pictures of the parts and I can see where if you were building 3 or more of these projects at one time you better be really organized or things would get out of control very quickly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made a jig to drill the lag bolts.
> Have pivoting point so hole will always be at the same distance from the outside.
> I made a pattern and would set the wood under it drill the first hole and then put a pin in it to keep the pattern and wood matched up then would go to the other side of the pattern and drill another hole and add a pin now the pattern will stay where it should.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut over 60 of those bolts and drilled that many holes and glue that many parts to come up with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't use tooth picks this time tried some 1/8" dowels just a little bigger and hope they don't show up so white when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to glue in the rim and the bolt center but not sure how far out I want the rim to be yet so will just wait on the hummer to tell me what it wants.
> So they're all sanded and ready for the truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> I feel like I put more work in these 6 wheels than I did the cattle car and Lincoln combined.
> Not counting the Lincoln's wheels in that. lol
> 
> So now we start the Hummer.


Yon certainly may have put more work into this set of wheels Bruce, but IMHO they are very much the "bees knees" of wheels sir, excellent work, well done!!


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Hummer Wheels Jig Part 2 & 3*
> 
> My last two projects have been mostly of oak and where that oak came from was a queen size platform bed I made back around 1995?
> I was out scrounging a couple a months ago and came across a man putting out a very nice queen size bed, got it for the lumber but once the wife saw it and I knew she would she started cleaning it up and 2 hours later she had a new bed. LOL
> So that's why I got to building with oak and here's the last part of it, I should have took pictures of the victim but forgot to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sanding the rims to fit inside the tire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here some pictures of the parts and I can see where if you were building 3 or more of these projects at one time you better be really organized or things would get out of control very quickly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made a jig to drill the lag bolts.
> Have pivoting point so hole will always be at the same distance from the outside.
> I made a pattern and would set the wood under it drill the first hole and then put a pin in it to keep the pattern and wood matched up then would go to the other side of the pattern and drill another hole and add a pin now the pattern will stay where it should.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut over 60 of those bolts and drilled that many holes and glue that many parts to come up with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't use tooth picks this time tried some 1/8" dowels just a little bigger and hope they don't show up so white when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to glue in the rim and the bolt center but not sure how far out I want the rim to be yet so will just wait on the hummer to tell me what it wants.
> So they're all sanded and ready for the truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I feel like I put more work in these 6 wheels than I did the cattle car and Lincoln combined.
> Not counting the Lincoln's wheels in that. lol
> 
> So now we start the Hummer.


Very nice wheels. I like the profile pattern. Do you ebonize the tires/tyres?


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Hummer Wheels Jig Part 2 & 3*
> 
> My last two projects have been mostly of oak and where that oak came from was a queen size platform bed I made back around 1995?
> I was out scrounging a couple a months ago and came across a man putting out a very nice queen size bed, got it for the lumber but once the wife saw it and I knew she would she started cleaning it up and 2 hours later she had a new bed. LOL
> So that's why I got to building with oak and here's the last part of it, I should have took pictures of the victim but forgot to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sanding the rims to fit inside the tire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here some pictures of the parts and I can see where if you were building 3 or more of these projects at one time you better be really organized or things would get out of control very quickly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made a jig to drill the lag bolts.
> Have pivoting point so hole will always be at the same distance from the outside.
> I made a pattern and would set the wood under it drill the first hole and then put a pin in it to keep the pattern and wood matched up then would go to the other side of the pattern and drill another hole and add a pin now the pattern will stay where it should.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut over 60 of those bolts and drilled that many holes and glue that many parts to come up with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't use tooth picks this time tried some 1/8" dowels just a little bigger and hope they don't show up so white when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to glue in the rim and the bolt center but not sure how far out I want the rim to be yet so will just wait on the hummer to tell me what it wants.
> So they're all sanded and ready for the truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I feel like I put more work in these 6 wheels than I did the cattle car and Lincoln combined.
> Not counting the Lincoln's wheels in that. lol
> 
> So now we start the Hummer.





> Very nice wheels. I like the profile pattern. Do you ebonize the tires/tyres?
> 
> - Dutchy


that's first thing I thought of when he said oak….. ebonize would work well for oak
if you can stand that smell YUCKY LMAO {:<))


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Hummer Wheels Jig Part 2 & 3*
> 
> My last two projects have been mostly of oak and where that oak came from was a queen size platform bed I made back around 1995?
> I was out scrounging a couple a months ago and came across a man putting out a very nice queen size bed, got it for the lumber but once the wife saw it and I knew she would she started cleaning it up and 2 hours later she had a new bed. LOL
> So that's why I got to building with oak and here's the last part of it, I should have took pictures of the victim but forgot to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sanding the rims to fit inside the tire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here some pictures of the parts and I can see where if you were building 3 or more of these projects at one time you better be really organized or things would get out of control very quickly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made a jig to drill the lag bolts.
> Have pivoting point so hole will always be at the same distance from the outside.
> I made a pattern and would set the wood under it drill the first hole and then put a pin in it to keep the pattern and wood matched up then would go to the other side of the pattern and drill another hole and add a pin now the pattern will stay where it should.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut over 60 of those bolts and drilled that many holes and glue that many parts to come up with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't use tooth picks this time tried some 1/8" dowels just a little bigger and hope they don't show up so white when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to glue in the rim and the bolt center but not sure how far out I want the rim to be yet so will just wait on the hummer to tell me what it wants.
> So they're all sanded and ready for the truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I feel like I put more work in these 6 wheels than I did the cattle car and Lincoln combined.
> Not counting the Lincoln's wheels in that. lol
> 
> So now we start the Hummer.


Very nice wheeles a lot of moves but well worth it (Outstanding)


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer Wheels Jig Part 2 & 3*
> 
> My last two projects have been mostly of oak and where that oak came from was a queen size platform bed I made back around 1995?
> I was out scrounging a couple a months ago and came across a man putting out a very nice queen size bed, got it for the lumber but once the wife saw it and I knew she would she started cleaning it up and 2 hours later she had a new bed. LOL
> So that's why I got to building with oak and here's the last part of it, I should have took pictures of the victim but forgot to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sanding the rims to fit inside the tire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here some pictures of the parts and I can see where if you were building 3 or more of these projects at one time you better be really organized or things would get out of control very quickly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made a jig to drill the lag bolts.
> Have pivoting point so hole will always be at the same distance from the outside.
> I made a pattern and would set the wood under it drill the first hole and then put a pin in it to keep the pattern and wood matched up then would go to the other side of the pattern and drill another hole and add a pin now the pattern will stay where it should.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut over 60 of those bolts and drilled that many holes and glue that many parts to come up with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't use tooth picks this time tried some 1/8" dowels just a little bigger and hope they don't show up so white when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to glue in the rim and the bolt center but not sure how far out I want the rim to be yet so will just wait on the hummer to tell me what it wants.
> So they're all sanded and ready for the truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I feel like I put more work in these 6 wheels than I did the cattle car and Lincoln combined.
> Not counting the Lincoln's wheels in that. lol
> 
> So now we start the Hummer.


I just got up from a nap and get on here and *Ducky scares me to death*, had to go out in my 100 degree shop and check that the wheels I had spent 3 days making and checked and rechecked were make in pairs just one more time. LOL



> Very nice wheels. I like the profile pattern. Do you ebonize the tires/tyres?
> 
> - Dutchy


Been thinking about it but I'm wondering the whole truck is going to be oak what would a whole truck look like ebonized??? LOL

And then some one I won't name tells me it stinks to a very high degree??? LOL

Now I don't know which way to go.
How long does the smell last?


> ?


I don't want no stinkin truck!!!!!!!!! LOL


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer Wheels Jig Part 2 & 3*
> 
> My last two projects have been mostly of oak and where that oak came from was a queen size platform bed I made back around 1995?
> I was out scrounging a couple a months ago and came across a man putting out a very nice queen size bed, got it for the lumber but once the wife saw it and I knew she would she started cleaning it up and 2 hours later she had a new bed. LOL
> So that's why I got to building with oak and here's the last part of it, I should have took pictures of the victim but forgot to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sanding the rims to fit inside the tire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here some pictures of the parts and I can see where if you were building 3 or more of these projects at one time you better be really organized or things would get out of control very quickly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made a jig to drill the lag bolts.
> Have pivoting point so hole will always be at the same distance from the outside.
> I made a pattern and would set the wood under it drill the first hole and then put a pin in it to keep the pattern and wood matched up then would go to the other side of the pattern and drill another hole and add a pin now the pattern will stay where it should.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut over 60 of those bolts and drilled that many holes and glue that many parts to come up with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't use tooth picks this time tried some 1/8" dowels just a little bigger and hope they don't show up so white when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to glue in the rim and the bolt center but not sure how far out I want the rim to be yet so will just wait on the hummer to tell me what it wants.
> So they're all sanded and ready for the truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I feel like I put more work in these 6 wheels than I did the cattle car and Lincoln combined.
> Not counting the Lincoln's wheels in that. lol
> 
> So now we start the Hummer.


Ducky you're like me and we love our wheels how about making a display with all the different extra wheels we have made, to me it would make one cool picture but make it where you can change out the wheels as more become available.
And Hunter I'll bet you could fill a whole wall with your extras.
What would be cool for you Hunter, would be a wheel wagon, the back of a wagon full of old wheels being taken to the retread station..
Just my $.02

I love it the ways you guys keep my mind thinking of new and different ways of doing things.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Hummer Wheels Jig Part 2 & 3*
> 
> My last two projects have been mostly of oak and where that oak came from was a queen size platform bed I made back around 1995?
> I was out scrounging a couple a months ago and came across a man putting out a very nice queen size bed, got it for the lumber but once the wife saw it and I knew she would she started cleaning it up and 2 hours later she had a new bed. LOL
> So that's why I got to building with oak and here's the last part of it, I should have took pictures of the victim but forgot to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sanding the rims to fit inside the tire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here some pictures of the parts and I can see where if you were building 3 or more of these projects at one time you better be really organized or things would get out of control very quickly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made a jig to drill the lag bolts.
> Have pivoting point so hole will always be at the same distance from the outside.
> I made a pattern and would set the wood under it drill the first hole and then put a pin in it to keep the pattern and wood matched up then would go to the other side of the pattern and drill another hole and add a pin now the pattern will stay where it should.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut over 60 of those bolts and drilled that many holes and glue that many parts to come up with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't use tooth picks this time tried some 1/8" dowels just a little bigger and hope they don't show up so white when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to glue in the rim and the bolt center but not sure how far out I want the rim to be yet so will just wait on the hummer to tell me what it wants.
> So they're all sanded and ready for the truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I feel like I put more work in these 6 wheels than I did the cattle car and Lincoln combined.
> Not counting the Lincoln's wheels in that. lol
> 
> So now we start the Hummer.





> ... my 100 degree shop …
> 
> - htl


#4, With your *100° shop *and 'HUNTER's *45° angels*, I'm glad I live in a *straight* country where we *only *have to put up with idiotic polititians…



> I love it the ways you guys keep my mind thinking of new and different ways of doing things.


As for an *all eb's *hummer… hmmm, think would look cool… Who's gonna be the bunny to be the first??? Not this LittleBlackDuck  Wait til it hits 110°, then you can say the heat sent you tropo ar blaze in the glory if it works.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer Wheels Jig Part 2 & 3*
> 
> My last two projects have been mostly of oak and where that oak came from was a queen size platform bed I made back around 1995?
> I was out scrounging a couple a months ago and came across a man putting out a very nice queen size bed, got it for the lumber but once the wife saw it and I knew she would she started cleaning it up and 2 hours later she had a new bed. LOL
> So that's why I got to building with oak and here's the last part of it, I should have took pictures of the victim but forgot to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sanding the rims to fit inside the tire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here some pictures of the parts and I can see where if you were building 3 or more of these projects at one time you better be really organized or things would get out of control very quickly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made a jig to drill the lag bolts.
> Have pivoting point so hole will always be at the same distance from the outside.
> I made a pattern and would set the wood under it drill the first hole and then put a pin in it to keep the pattern and wood matched up then would go to the other side of the pattern and drill another hole and add a pin now the pattern will stay where it should.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut over 60 of those bolts and drilled that many holes and glue that many parts to come up with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't use tooth picks this time tried some 1/8" dowels just a little bigger and hope they don't show up so white when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to glue in the rim and the bolt center but not sure how far out I want the rim to be yet so will just wait on the hummer to tell me what it wants.
> So they're all sanded and ready for the truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I feel like I put more work in these 6 wheels than I did the cattle car and Lincoln combined.
> Not counting the Lincoln's wheels in that. lol
> 
> So now we start the Hummer.


Ducky I couldn't figure where you were getting the angels comments from and had to go read over your shoulder and find out where you had been to find hunters comments.
I hardly ever look at the forum part of the site but I guess I need to.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Hummer Wheels Jig Part 2 & 3*
> 
> My last two projects have been mostly of oak and where that oak came from was a queen size platform bed I made back around 1995?
> I was out scrounging a couple a months ago and came across a man putting out a very nice queen size bed, got it for the lumber but once the wife saw it and I knew she would she started cleaning it up and 2 hours later she had a new bed. LOL
> So that's why I got to building with oak and here's the last part of it, I should have took pictures of the victim but forgot to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sanding the rims to fit inside the tire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here some pictures of the parts and I can see where if you were building 3 or more of these projects at one time you better be really organized or things would get out of control very quickly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made a jig to drill the lag bolts.
> Have pivoting point so hole will always be at the same distance from the outside.
> I made a pattern and would set the wood under it drill the first hole and then put a pin in it to keep the pattern and wood matched up then would go to the other side of the pattern and drill another hole and add a pin now the pattern will stay where it should.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut over 60 of those bolts and drilled that many holes and glue that many parts to come up with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't use tooth picks this time tried some 1/8" dowels just a little bigger and hope they don't show up so white when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to glue in the rim and the bolt center but not sure how far out I want the rim to be yet so will just wait on the hummer to tell me what it wants.
> So they're all sanded and ready for the truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I feel like I put more work in these 6 wheels than I did the cattle car and Lincoln combined.
> Not counting the Lincoln's wheels in that. lol
> 
> So now we start the Hummer.


ahhh bruce …..... you know how them ducks are…... even the little black ones LOL


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer Wheels Jig Part 2 & 3*
> 
> My last two projects have been mostly of oak and where that oak came from was a queen size platform bed I made back around 1995?
> I was out scrounging a couple a months ago and came across a man putting out a very nice queen size bed, got it for the lumber but once the wife saw it and I knew she would she started cleaning it up and 2 hours later she had a new bed. LOL
> So that's why I got to building with oak and here's the last part of it, I should have took pictures of the victim but forgot to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sanding the rims to fit inside the tire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here some pictures of the parts and I can see where if you were building 3 or more of these projects at one time you better be really organized or things would get out of control very quickly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made a jig to drill the lag bolts.
> Have pivoting point so hole will always be at the same distance from the outside.
> I made a pattern and would set the wood under it drill the first hole and then put a pin in it to keep the pattern and wood matched up then would go to the other side of the pattern and drill another hole and add a pin now the pattern will stay where it should.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut over 60 of those bolts and drilled that many holes and glue that many parts to come up with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't use tooth picks this time tried some 1/8" dowels just a little bigger and hope they don't show up so white when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to glue in the rim and the bolt center but not sure how far out I want the rim to be yet so will just wait on the hummer to tell me what it wants.
> So they're all sanded and ready for the truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I feel like I put more work in these 6 wheels than I did the cattle car and Lincoln combined.
> Not counting the Lincoln's wheels in that. lol
> 
> So now we start the Hummer.


Hunter what do you do when you see a line a duckys in a row?
I don't know but a black duck would be first me thinks.

Hunter have you looked at your messages?


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Hummer Wheels Jig Part 2 & 3*
> 
> My last two projects have been mostly of oak and where that oak came from was a queen size platform bed I made back around 1995?
> I was out scrounging a couple a months ago and came across a man putting out a very nice queen size bed, got it for the lumber but once the wife saw it and I knew she would she started cleaning it up and 2 hours later she had a new bed. LOL
> So that's why I got to building with oak and here's the last part of it, I should have took pictures of the victim but forgot to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sanding the rims to fit inside the tire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here some pictures of the parts and I can see where if you were building 3 or more of these projects at one time you better be really organized or things would get out of control very quickly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made a jig to drill the lag bolts.
> Have pivoting point so hole will always be at the same distance from the outside.
> I made a pattern and would set the wood under it drill the first hole and then put a pin in it to keep the pattern and wood matched up then would go to the other side of the pattern and drill another hole and add a pin now the pattern will stay where it should.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut over 60 of those bolts and drilled that many holes and glue that many parts to come up with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't use tooth picks this time tried some 1/8" dowels just a little bigger and hope they don't show up so white when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to glue in the rim and the bolt center but not sure how far out I want the rim to be yet so will just wait on the hummer to tell me what it wants.
> So they're all sanded and ready for the truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I feel like I put more work in these 6 wheels than I did the cattle car and Lincoln combined.
> Not counting the Lincoln's wheels in that. lol
> 
> So now we start the Hummer.





> .. had to go read over your shoulder…
> 
> - htl


Phew, had me worried, I thought the fiery breath on the back of my neck was the missus getting amorous.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Hummer Wheels Jig Part 2 & 3*
> 
> My last two projects have been mostly of oak and where that oak came from was a queen size platform bed I made back around 1995?
> I was out scrounging a couple a months ago and came across a man putting out a very nice queen size bed, got it for the lumber but once the wife saw it and I knew she would she started cleaning it up and 2 hours later she had a new bed. LOL
> So that's why I got to building with oak and here's the last part of it, I should have took pictures of the victim but forgot to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sanding the rims to fit inside the tire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here some pictures of the parts and I can see where if you were building 3 or more of these projects at one time you better be really organized or things would get out of control very quickly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made a jig to drill the lag bolts.
> Have pivoting point so hole will always be at the same distance from the outside.
> I made a pattern and would set the wood under it drill the first hole and then put a pin in it to keep the pattern and wood matched up then would go to the other side of the pattern and drill another hole and add a pin now the pattern will stay where it should.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut over 60 of those bolts and drilled that many holes and glue that many parts to come up with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't use tooth picks this time tried some 1/8" dowels just a little bigger and hope they don't show up so white when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to glue in the rim and the bolt center but not sure how far out I want the rim to be yet so will just wait on the hummer to tell me what it wants.
> So they're all sanded and ready for the truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I feel like I put more work in these 6 wheels than I did the cattle car and Lincoln combined.
> Not counting the Lincoln's wheels in that. lol
> 
> So now we start the Hummer.





> I don t know but a black duck would be first me thinks.
> 
> - htl


As long as it's just a warning shot between the eyes..


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer Wheels Jig Part 2 & 3*
> 
> My last two projects have been mostly of oak and where that oak came from was a queen size platform bed I made back around 1995?
> I was out scrounging a couple a months ago and came across a man putting out a very nice queen size bed, got it for the lumber but once the wife saw it and I knew she would she started cleaning it up and 2 hours later she had a new bed. LOL
> So that's why I got to building with oak and here's the last part of it, I should have took pictures of the victim but forgot to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sanding the rims to fit inside the tire.
> 
> 
> 
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> Here some pictures of the parts and I can see where if you were building 3 or more of these projects at one time you better be really organized or things would get out of control very quickly.
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> Have pivoting point so hole will always be at the same distance from the outside.
> I made a pattern and would set the wood under it drill the first hole and then put a pin in it to keep the pattern and wood matched up then would go to the other side of the pattern and drill another hole and add a pin now the pattern will stay where it should.
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> I still need to glue in the rim and the bolt center but not sure how far out I want the rim to be yet so will just wait on the hummer to tell me what it wants.
> So they're all sanded and ready for the truck.
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> I feel like I put more work in these 6 wheels than I did the cattle car and Lincoln combined.
> Not counting the Lincoln's wheels in that. lol
> 
> So now we start the Hummer.


Ducky I'm the same way if your going to shot me don't get sloppy make it count. LOL


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## htl

*Start The Hummer One and a Two*

Well the wheels are ready now for the frame work for the Hummer.
Most of this work you've seen in my other how2's so just pictures.
This is going to be one big vehicle but I always say that don't I, but it's TRUE!!! LOL























































Going to be doing the back end a little differently, I hope it works out.










Cutting out for the axles.

The wheels was page 9 and this is all from the first page so only 7 more to go.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Start The Hummer One and a Two*
> 
> Well the wheels are ready now for the frame work for the Hummer.
> Most of this work you've seen in my other how2's so just pictures.
> This is going to be one big vehicle but I always say that don't I, but it's TRUE!!! LOL
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> Cutting out for the axles.
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> The wheels was page 9 and this is all from the first page so only 7 more to go.


I'll bite… Where'd you buy the *groovy* wood from?? Nice touch.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Start The Hummer One and a Two*
> 
> Well the wheels are ready now for the frame work for the Hummer.
> Most of this work you've seen in my other how2's so just pictures.
> This is going to be one big vehicle but I always say that don't I, but it's TRUE!!! LOL
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> Cutting out for the axles.
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> The wheels was page 9 and this is all from the first page so only 7 more to go.


*Thanks Bruce* for the extra time and effort to do the *"HOW TO"*, much appreciated…


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## htl

htl said:


> *Start The Hummer One and a Two*
> 
> Well the wheels are ready now for the frame work for the Hummer.
> Most of this work you've seen in my other how2's so just pictures.
> This is going to be one big vehicle but I always say that don't I, but it's TRUE!!! LOL
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> Going to be doing the back end a little differently, I hope it works out.
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> Cutting out for the axles.
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> The wheels was page 9 and this is all from the first page so only 7 more to go.


My goodness the ink isn't even dry and your already commenting LOL
I'm just getting ready for bed and you all are up and at em.
It's 9:30 pm my time.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Start The Hummer One and a Two*
> 
> Well the wheels are ready now for the frame work for the Hummer.
> Most of this work you've seen in my other how2's so just pictures.
> This is going to be one big vehicle but I always say that don't I, but it's TRUE!!! LOL
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> Cutting out for the axles.
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> The wheels was page 9 and this is all from the first page so only 7 more to go.


It's early arvo… so haw dare you have a nanny nap???


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## helluvawreck

htl said:


> *Start The Hummer One and a Two*
> 
> Well the wheels are ready now for the frame work for the Hummer.
> Most of this work you've seen in my other how2's so just pictures.
> This is going to be one big vehicle but I always say that don't I, but it's TRUE!!! LOL
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> Cutting out for the axles.
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> The wheels was page 9 and this is all from the first page so only 7 more to go.


This looks like it will be an interesting build and it looks like there's going to be a lot of nice details.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Start The Hummer One and a Two*
> 
> Well the wheels are ready now for the frame work for the Hummer.
> Most of this work you've seen in my other how2's so just pictures.
> This is going to be one big vehicle but I always say that don't I, but it's TRUE!!! LOL
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> Going to be doing the back end a little differently, I hope it works out.
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> Cutting out for the axles.
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> The wheels was page 9 and this is all from the first page so only 7 more to go.


it really does take extra time to post all those how to pictures GREAT JOB Bruce
I wish I could do that but takes to much time and very hard for me to explain just how I do things 
but also you are very fast took me a whole week just to make my Packard wheels LOL
*YOU GOT ANYTHING TO SAY LBD LMAO*


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Start The Hummer One and a Two*
> 
> Well the wheels are ready now for the frame work for the Hummer.
> Most of this work you've seen in my other how2's so just pictures.
> This is going to be one big vehicle but I always say that don't I, but it's TRUE!!! LOL
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> Going to be doing the back end a little differently, I hope it works out.
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> Cutting out for the axles.
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> The wheels was page 9 and this is all from the first page so only 7 more to go.





> ... took me a whole week just to make my Packard wheels LOL
> *YOU GOT ANYTHING TO SAY LBD LMAO*
> 
> - GR8HUNTER


White rag to a red bull!

You work for USPS? Slow post? Can't knock your *In the shop *location vs *North Alabama*, so I can't pinpoint the excuse for lethargy to environment.

You do realise that *#4* (potential *+1*, but that's another story) is a hand-model (look at all his pictures in other posts and admire the neat cuticles), so he has a camera "*on hand*".



> ... and very hard for me to explain just how I do things..
> 
> - GR8HUNTER


Just *BS* like I do… A crappy word is often better than no word at all (except in front of the cops [and the missus], hey some of my best friends know cops well).



> but also you are very fast…
> 
> - GR8HUNTER


If he wasn't called *#4* (OK, maybe *+1*, I think I've created a monster), he'd be called *Barry Allen*! I have trouble typing fast enough to keep pace with his posts.


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## htl

*Hummer body work #3*

It's starting to look like something but I don't know what.

I really need to be making the seats and gauges but just have to do some body work to see what it's going to look like.
Maybe tomorrow I'll get back to the program, ya right!
Don't look like much but played around with the angles for the sides.
I don't know why they don't just tell you their 15 degrees[I don't know how to make that circle thingy that says degrees] for the windshield and 7 degrees for the sides.

Here's the axles in place.



























And you all know me by now got to put the wheels on and give it a look see.

This thing stands almost as tall as my Toyota Prerunner. LOL





































Ok and for the last picture what do you all think about we make a pickup truck for a little change of pace?


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Hummer body work #3*
> 
> It's starting to look like something but I don't know what.
> 
> I really need to be making the seats and gauges but just have to do some body work to see what it's going to look like.
> Maybe tomorrow I'll get back to the program, ya right!
> Don't look like much but played around with the angles for the sides.
> I don't know why they don't just tell you their 15 degrees[I don't know how to make that circle thingy that says degrees] for the windshield and 7 degrees for the sides.
> 
> Here's the axles in place.
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> And you all know me by now got to put the wheels on and give it a look see.
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> This thing stands almost as tall as my Toyota Prerunner. LOL
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> Ok and for the last picture what do you all think about we make a pickup truck for a little change of pace?


Good progress Bruce…The mockup with the wheels & no sides looks great…


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## bruce317

htl said:


> *Hummer body work #3*
> 
> It's starting to look like something but I don't know what.
> 
> I really need to be making the seats and gauges but just have to do some body work to see what it's going to look like.
> Maybe tomorrow I'll get back to the program, ya right!
> Don't look like much but played around with the angles for the sides.
> I don't know why they don't just tell you their 15 degrees[I don't know how to make that circle thingy that says degrees] for the windshield and 7 degrees for the sides.
> 
> Here's the axles in place.
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> And you all know me by now got to put the wheels on and give it a look see.
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> This thing stands almost as tall as my Toyota Prerunner. LOL
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> Ok and for the last picture what do you all think about we make a pickup truck for a little change of pace?


Bruce,
Yes like your pick-up! Looks great that way.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Hummer body work #3*
> 
> It's starting to look like something but I don't know what.
> 
> I really need to be making the seats and gauges but just have to do some body work to see what it's going to look like.
> Maybe tomorrow I'll get back to the program, ya right!
> Don't look like much but played around with the angles for the sides.
> I don't know why they don't just tell you their 15 degrees[I don't know how to make that circle thingy that says degrees] for the windshield and 7 degrees for the sides.
> 
> Here's the axles in place.
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> And you all know me by now got to put the wheels on and give it a look see.
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> This thing stands almost as tall as my Toyota Prerunner. LOL
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> Ok and for the last picture what do you all think about we make a pickup truck for a little change of pace?


holy crap Bruce , I'm still on the lowboy 
do you take speed ? LMAO 
I BLINK AND YOU GOT A ROLLING CHASSIS LMAO


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## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer body work #3*
> 
> It's starting to look like something but I don't know what.
> 
> I really need to be making the seats and gauges but just have to do some body work to see what it's going to look like.
> Maybe tomorrow I'll get back to the program, ya right!
> Don't look like much but played around with the angles for the sides.
> I don't know why they don't just tell you their 15 degrees[I don't know how to make that circle thingy that says degrees] for the windshield and 7 degrees for the sides.
> 
> Here's the axles in place.
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> And you all know me by now got to put the wheels on and give it a look see.
> 
> This thing stands almost as tall as my Toyota Prerunner. LOL
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> Ok and for the last picture what do you all think about we make a pickup truck for a little change of pace?


Hunter I'm retired so put about 5 hours a day in till it gets too hot in the shop.
I haven't got my low boy planes yet should be in the mail any day now.
Glad they haven't showed up yet been wanting to build this here Hummer for a while.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Hummer body work #3*
> 
> It's starting to look like something but I don't know what.
> 
> I really need to be making the seats and gauges but just have to do some body work to see what it's going to look like.
> Maybe tomorrow I'll get back to the program, ya right!
> Don't look like much but played around with the angles for the sides.
> I don't know why they don't just tell you their 15 degrees[I don't know how to make that circle thingy that says degrees] for the windshield and 7 degrees for the sides.
> 
> Here's the axles in place.
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> And you all know me by now got to put the wheels on and give it a look see.
> 
> This thing stands almost as tall as my Toyota Prerunner. LOL
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> Ok and for the last picture what do you all think about we make a pickup truck for a little change of pace?


that's about the same time I put in also….... except I been working on some chairs in between


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## BruceBarber

htl said:


> *Hummer body work #3*
> 
> It's starting to look like something but I don't know what.
> 
> I really need to be making the seats and gauges but just have to do some body work to see what it's going to look like.
> Maybe tomorrow I'll get back to the program, ya right!
> Don't look like much but played around with the angles for the sides.
> I don't know why they don't just tell you their 15 degrees[I don't know how to make that circle thingy that says degrees] for the windshield and 7 degrees for the sides.
> 
> Here's the axles in place.
> 
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> And you all know me by now got to put the wheels on and give it a look see.
> 
> This thing stands almost as tall as my Toyota Prerunner. LOL
> 
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> Ok and for the last picture what do you all think about we make a pickup truck for a little change of pace?


Looks good Bruce ,,, i am building a Hummer tooo, and i was going to cut the roof like yours too
how do you plan to cut the doors out ?? 
i will post some of my pictures too and we can have a challenge LOL
i like the way t you did the wheels

Bruce Barber


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Hummer body work #3*
> 
> It's starting to look like something but I don't know what.
> 
> I really need to be making the seats and gauges but just have to do some body work to see what it's going to look like.
> Maybe tomorrow I'll get back to the program, ya right!
> Don't look like much but played around with the angles for the sides.
> I don't know why they don't just tell you their 15 degrees[I don't know how to make that circle thingy that says degrees] for the windshield and 7 degrees for the sides.
> 
> Here's the axles in place.
> 
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> And you all know me by now got to put the wheels on and give it a look see.
> 
> This thing stands almost as tall as my Toyota Prerunner. LOL
> 
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> Ok and for the last picture what do you all think about we make a pickup truck for a little change of pace?





> ... what do you all think about we make a pickup truck for a little change of pace?
> 
> - htl


Just what the missus needs for the daily shopping trip to the lolly shop (she's a sweetie).



> Hunter I m retired so put about 5 hours a day in…
> 
> - htl


I shouldn't be apologising for you #4, but we (the royal we) need our nanny nap!



> ..I m re*tired* so…
> 
> - htl


Had to read several times… No wonder you are good at making *tyre*s… even though you can't spell properly.


> ... in till it gets too hot in the shop…
> 
> - htl


You guys always complain about the *weather*. Come to Australian and all you have to worry about is *whether *you have a glass or not (the latter always a looser).



> ... on some chairs…
> 
> - GR8HUNTER


And beds?... designed for a nanny (nap?)... Don't blame comfort for complacency.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer body work #3*
> 
> It's starting to look like something but I don't know what.
> 
> I really need to be making the seats and gauges but just have to do some body work to see what it's going to look like.
> Maybe tomorrow I'll get back to the program, ya right!
> Don't look like much but played around with the angles for the sides.
> I don't know why they don't just tell you their 15 degrees[I don't know how to make that circle thingy that says degrees] for the windshield and 7 degrees for the sides.
> 
> Here's the axles in place.
> 
> 
> 
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> And you all know me by now got to put the wheels on and give it a look see.
> 
> This thing stands almost as tall as my Toyota Prerunner. LOL
> 
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> Ok and for the last picture what do you all think about we make a pickup truck for a little change of pace?


I'm just about afraid to post, he can see through walls and find the smallest detail even if they are all wrong, but that's ok cause we have to be good to poor Little Black Ducks that get locked up in vices for long periods of time.

Bruce I've lost count of which bruce is which all I know is I'm #4 but I have no idea how I'm going to cut the doors I probably won't since I already glued them up but maybe tomorrow I'll come up with something.
I hate cutting out doors infact I never have.
I never have had to before so in new territory here.

"we can have a challenge" 
Bruce you can win I'm not very good under pressure I just like to build models for the fun of it.

*If you have a great idea I sure could use one*. LOL

I got to quit hanging around with Ducks I'm beginning to sound like one and that's scary!!!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Hummer body work #3*
> 
> It's starting to look like something but I don't know what.
> 
> I really need to be making the seats and gauges but just have to do some body work to see what it's going to look like.
> Maybe tomorrow I'll get back to the program, ya right!
> Don't look like much but played around with the angles for the sides.
> I don't know why they don't just tell you their 15 degrees[I don't know how to make that circle thingy that says degrees] for the windshield and 7 degrees for the sides.
> 
> Here's the axles in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you all know me by now got to put the wheels on and give it a look see.
> 
> This thing stands almost as tall as my Toyota Prerunner. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok and for the last picture what do you all think about we make a pickup truck for a little change of pace?





> ...
> how do you plan to cut the doors out ??
> ...
> 
> Bruce Barber
> 
> - Bruce Barber


*BB#?* C'mon, there is no such thing as a duck in hibernation. I'm watching you… A Hummer with "*cut doors out*" would be open to burglary and just be an oversized mini-moke. Keep the doors! 
If you have to, paint it orange, name it "*General Lee*" and let people climb in through the window. (Sorry for the swear word of "paint".)


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer body work #3*
> 
> It's starting to look like something but I don't know what.
> 
> I really need to be making the seats and gauges but just have to do some body work to see what it's going to look like.
> Maybe tomorrow I'll get back to the program, ya right!
> Don't look like much but played around with the angles for the sides.
> I don't know why they don't just tell you their 15 degrees[I don't know how to make that circle thingy that says degrees] for the windshield and 7 degrees for the sides.
> 
> Here's the axles in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you all know me by now got to put the wheels on and give it a look see.
> 
> This thing stands almost as tall as my Toyota Prerunner. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok and for the last picture what do you all think about we make a pickup truck for a little change of pace?


Now there's an idea I can use!!!
Then can I drive it over a ramp and throw a barn wall. lol


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Hummer body work #3*
> 
> It's starting to look like something but I don't know what.
> 
> I really need to be making the seats and gauges but just have to do some body work to see what it's going to look like.
> Maybe tomorrow I'll get back to the program, ya right!
> Don't look like much but played around with the angles for the sides.
> I don't know why they don't just tell you their 15 degrees[I don't know how to make that circle thingy that says degrees] for the windshield and 7 degrees for the sides.
> 
> Here's the axles in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you all know me by now got to put the wheels on and give it a look see.
> 
> This thing stands almost as tall as my Toyota Prerunner. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok and for the last picture what do you all think about we make a pickup truck for a little change of pace?


*htl (AKA Luke), *keep up the good work and don't let a moronic tasty "*Aix galericulata*" phase your progress.

Kisses Daisy.


----------



## htl

*Hummer Worked on the inside*

Figured I better get the insides done before I get the wild hair and close this thing up.
I'm finding that I have a bad habit of thinking about something that needs done then the next day going and forgetting about it and doing something that make it hard or near impossible to do it after the fact.
So get the inside done then on we go.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Hummer Worked on the inside*
> 
> Figured I better get the insides done before I get the wild hair and close this thing up.
> I'm finding that I have a bad habit of thinking about something that needs done then the next day going and forgetting about it and doing something that make it hard or near impossible to do it after the fact.
> So get the inside done then on we go.


> Nice Bruce.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer Worked on the inside*
> 
> Figured I better get the insides done before I get the wild hair and close this thing up.
> I'm finding that I have a bad habit of thinking about something that needs done then the next day going and forgetting about it and doing something that make it hard or near impossible to do it after the fact.
> So get the inside done then on we go.


Thanks Dutchy!!!
You having fun on your walk abouts?


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Hummer Worked on the inside*
> 
> Figured I better get the insides done before I get the wild hair and close this thing up.
> I'm finding that I have a bad habit of thinking about something that needs done then the next day going and forgetting about it and doing something that make it hard or near impossible to do it after the fact.
> So get the inside done then on we go.


walkabout:

a journey on foot undertaken by an Australian Aboriginal in order to live in the traditional manner*????*


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer Worked on the inside*
> 
> Figured I better get the insides done before I get the wild hair and close this thing up.
> I'm finding that I have a bad habit of thinking about something that needs done then the next day going and forgetting about it and doing something that make it hard or near impossible to do it after the fact.
> So get the inside done then on we go.


Walkabout means getting things done going shopping just about any where you want to go.
Your not here so your walking about. LOL

I know ducky will say different but he's a Duck what does he know.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Hummer Worked on the inside*
> 
> Figured I better get the insides done before I get the wild hair and close this thing up.
> I'm finding that I have a bad habit of thinking about something that needs done then the next day going and forgetting about it and doing something that make it hard or near impossible to do it after the fact.
> So get the inside done then on we go.


I glued axels onto lowboy worked on front part quite a bit almost have it done pin in and all connections work well


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer Worked on the inside*
> 
> Figured I better get the insides done before I get the wild hair and close this thing up.
> I'm finding that I have a bad habit of thinking about something that needs done then the next day going and forgetting about it and doing something that make it hard or near impossible to do it after the fact.
> So get the inside done then on we go.


I wanta see it!!!
No pictures it didn't happen. LOL

My low Boy plans came in today YAAAA!!!!!


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Hummer Worked on the inside*
> 
> Figured I better get the insides done before I get the wild hair and close this thing up.
> I'm finding that I have a bad habit of thinking about something that needs done then the next day going and forgetting about it and doing something that make it hard or near impossible to do it after the fact.
> So get the inside done then on we go.


Bruce, You are sure on fine modeller/toymaker sir….

**

And YES I too will await Ducky's long explanation of "Walkabout", he has a way with words indeed!!!
Though probably a little too early for him???


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Hummer Worked on the inside*
> 
> Figured I better get the insides done before I get the wild hair and close this thing up.
> I'm finding that I have a bad habit of thinking about something that needs done then the next day going and forgetting about it and doing something that make it hard or near impossible to do it after the fact.
> So get the inside done then on we go.





> walkabout:
> 
> a journey on foot undertaken by an Australian Aboriginal in order to live in the traditional manner*????*
> 
> - Dutchy


That may be the explanation in your Dutch dictionary, but here in Churchill, the *Wotjobaluk Tribe* call it a *dirty weekend*...

Nice instrumentation panels, #4.


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Hummer Worked on the inside*
> 
> Figured I better get the insides done before I get the wild hair and close this thing up.
> I'm finding that I have a bad habit of thinking about something that needs done then the next day going and forgetting about it and doing something that make it hard or near impossible to do it after the fact.
> So get the inside done then on we go.


Looking good!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer Worked on the inside*
> 
> Figured I better get the insides done before I get the wild hair and close this thing up.
> I'm finding that I have a bad habit of thinking about something that needs done then the next day going and forgetting about it and doing something that make it hard or near impossible to do it after the fact.
> So get the inside done then on we go.


I ain't showing no post today I went backwards more than forwards today. LOL


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Hummer Worked on the inside*
> 
> Figured I better get the insides done before I get the wild hair and close this thing up.
> I'm finding that I have a bad habit of thinking about something that needs done then the next day going and forgetting about it and doing something that make it hard or near impossible to do it after the fact.
> So get the inside done then on we go.





> I ain t showing no post today I went backwards more than forwards today. LOL
> 
> - htl


BUT at less you got to do!!!!

My shed has been very lonely lately….


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Hummer Worked on the inside*
> 
> Figured I better get the insides done before I get the wild hair and close this thing up.
> I'm finding that I have a bad habit of thinking about something that needs done then the next day going and forgetting about it and doing something that make it hard or near impossible to do it after the fact.
> So get the inside done then on we go.





> I ain t showing no post today ….
> 
> - htl


And the ever reliable Duck to the rescue….








No sitting on the fence.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer Worked on the inside*
> 
> Figured I better get the insides done before I get the wild hair and close this thing up.
> I'm finding that I have a bad habit of thinking about something that needs done then the next day going and forgetting about it and doing something that make it hard or near impossible to do it after the fact.
> So get the inside done then on we go.


Thanks Crowie and the Duck I need all the help I can get. LOL


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer Worked on the inside*
> 
> Figured I better get the insides done before I get the wild hair and close this thing up.
> I'm finding that I have a bad habit of thinking about something that needs done then the next day going and forgetting about it and doing something that make it hard or near impossible to do it after the fact.
> So get the inside done then on we go.


Here's my sign!!!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Hummer Worked on the inside*
> 
> Figured I better get the insides done before I get the wild hair and close this thing up.
> I'm finding that I have a bad habit of thinking about something that needs done then the next day going and forgetting about it and doing something that make it hard or near impossible to do it after the fact.
> So get the inside done then on we go.


#4, didn't realise you were vindictive… Just realised your conspiracy…
*Pick him*!


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Hummer Worked on the inside*
> 
> Figured I better get the insides done before I get the wild hair and close this thing up.
> I'm finding that I have a bad habit of thinking about something that needs done then the next day going and forgetting about it and doing something that make it hard or near impossible to do it after the fact.
> So get the inside done then on we go.


its duck season


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer Worked on the inside*
> 
> Figured I better get the insides done before I get the wild hair and close this thing up.
> I'm finding that I have a bad habit of thinking about something that needs done then the next day going and forgetting about it and doing something that make it hard or near impossible to do it after the fact.
> So get the inside done then on we go.


Hey don't be getting any Ducky juices on my seats.

Now that's funny!!!!!!!!!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Hummer Worked on the inside*
> 
> Figured I better get the insides done before I get the wild hair and close this thing up.
> I'm finding that I have a bad habit of thinking about something that needs done then the next day going and forgetting about it and doing something that make it hard or near impossible to do it after the fact.
> So get the inside done then on we go.





> ... getting any Ducky juices….
> 
> - htl


Only if you are a very good shot. Don't forget I know how to *duck*!


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Hummer Worked on the inside*
> 
> Figured I better get the insides done before I get the wild hair and close this thing up.
> I'm finding that I have a bad habit of thinking about something that needs done then the next day going and forgetting about it and doing something that make it hard or near impossible to do it after the fact.
> So get the inside done then on we go.





> I ain t showing no post today I went backwards more than forwards today. LOL
> 
> - htl


What you are making when you walk forwards is often not the most simple! I know that walking backward is even harder. So please show


----------



## htl

*Hummer Working Back to going forward again I hope*

Went at my usual full speed ahead and it got me in trouble this time around.
I know better than to take any thing on the Toys and Joys plans with out checking and rechecking that what it shows is what needs to be done.
I"ve been building the easier plans here lately and to just jump in without really studying the plans is a recipe for trouble and sure enough had to do some back peddling to cover my mistakes and get on the straight and narrow.

So now all is good in Hummer ville and will try to keep my enthusiasm in check.

Ok where was I?
Last I made the seats and added some cushions.









Then sanded the back all flush and installed the tail gate.









Then on to the front fenders and this is where I wasn't paying attention to business.
There are two parts to each front fender plus a right and left.
Well I did fine on the first set, right and left these are compound cuts so can get in trouble really quick if not paying attention
but when I cut the smaller set that fits on top of the first I got my fronts and back mixed up and there was no way they were going to work so had to back up and make another set but this time I put arrows showing which way was front so no mistakes this time.

I would think T&J would mark the sets but that's right they don't give you but one set the right side and expect you to flip it around and get her done.
Saves them some paper but this is one place where they could help their users out I would think.

I'm not saying this in a mad fit but some newer builders will be way lost on this part of the plans I would think.

After gluing up some parts needed to cut out for the gas filler.
I used a router bit in the drill press to make the cut.
Clamped down a speed square for a fence and held the part in a vice to be held securely.





































I think I figure out why the mistake, on most things the back is larger than the front so if you take this for a fact you're in trouble here because you're cutting out for the headlight and the front is larger than the back here.

OK here's my redo of the headlight fender.













































Sand between cuts while you still have some level surfaces.








I taped a piece a scrap wood under the odd shape to get it level for the final cut.


















Did you notice the R's ans L's and the arrows showing which way the pictures should be facing, this will help keep every thing straight as you work.

I'm glad I got that all fixed and working right, it feels much better when a plans coming together and not falling apart. LOL

Finally got it glued in and sanded.














































Never fails but I need to put the wheels on and take it for a spin.



























Now we can get an idea what the pickup version of the Hummer will look like.

















And here's the grill maybe.









I have seen comments by some that they built a second project being not happy with the way the first one turned out, and I now understand where they were coming from.
This project will get done and be ok but I just know it could have been way better.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Hummer Working Back to going forward again I hope*
> 
> Went at my usual full speed ahead and it got me in trouble this time around.
> I know better than to take any thing on the Toys and Joys plans with out checking and rechecking that what it shows is what needs to be done.
> I"ve been building the easier plans here lately and to just jump in without really studying the plans is a recipe for trouble and sure enough had to do some back peddling to cover my mistakes and get on the straight and narrow.
> 
> So now all is good in Hummer ville and will try to keep my enthusiasm in check.
> 
> Ok where was I?
> Last I made the seats and added some cushions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sanded the back all flush and installed the tail gate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the front fenders and this is where I wasn't paying attention to business.
> There are two parts to each front fender plus a right and left.
> Well I did fine on the first set, right and left these are compound cuts so can get in trouble really quick if not paying attention
> but when I cut the smaller set that fits on top of the first I got my fronts and back mixed up and there was no way they were going to work so had to back up and make another set but this time I put arrows showing which way was front so no mistakes this time.
> 
> I would think T&J would mark the sets but that's right they don't give you but one set the right side and expect you to flip it around and get her done.
> Saves them some paper but this is one place where they could help their users out I would think.
> 
> I'm not saying this in a mad fit but some newer builders will be way lost on this part of the plans I would think.
> 
> After gluing up some parts needed to cut out for the gas filler.
> I used a router bit in the drill press to make the cut.
> Clamped down a speed square for a fence and held the part in a vice to be held securely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I figure out why the mistake, on most things the back is larger than the front so if you take this for a fact you're in trouble here because you're cutting out for the headlight and the front is larger than the back here.
> 
> OK here's my redo of the headlight fender.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sand between cuts while you still have some level surfaces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I taped a piece a scrap wood under the odd shape to get it level for the final cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you notice the R's ans L's and the arrows showing which way the pictures should be facing, this will help keep every thing straight as you work.
> 
> I'm glad I got that all fixed and working right, it feels much better when a plans coming together and not falling apart. LOL
> 
> Finally got it glued in and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never fails but I need to put the wheels on and take it for a spin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we can get an idea what the pickup version of the Hummer will look like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's the grill maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have seen comments by some that they built a second project being not happy with the way the first one turned out, and I now understand where they were coming from.
> This project will get done and be ok but I just know it could have been way better.


I also am progressing ahead put first coat of poly on today I am pleased if you can be happy


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer Working Back to going forward again I hope*
> 
> Went at my usual full speed ahead and it got me in trouble this time around.
> I know better than to take any thing on the Toys and Joys plans with out checking and rechecking that what it shows is what needs to be done.
> I"ve been building the easier plans here lately and to just jump in without really studying the plans is a recipe for trouble and sure enough had to do some back peddling to cover my mistakes and get on the straight and narrow.
> 
> So now all is good in Hummer ville and will try to keep my enthusiasm in check.
> 
> Ok where was I?
> Last I made the seats and added some cushions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sanded the back all flush and installed the tail gate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the front fenders and this is where I wasn't paying attention to business.
> There are two parts to each front fender plus a right and left.
> Well I did fine on the first set, right and left these are compound cuts so can get in trouble really quick if not paying attention
> but when I cut the smaller set that fits on top of the first I got my fronts and back mixed up and there was no way they were going to work so had to back up and make another set but this time I put arrows showing which way was front so no mistakes this time.
> 
> I would think T&J would mark the sets but that's right they don't give you but one set the right side and expect you to flip it around and get her done.
> Saves them some paper but this is one place where they could help their users out I would think.
> 
> I'm not saying this in a mad fit but some newer builders will be way lost on this part of the plans I would think.
> 
> After gluing up some parts needed to cut out for the gas filler.
> I used a router bit in the drill press to make the cut.
> Clamped down a speed square for a fence and held the part in a vice to be held securely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I figure out why the mistake, on most things the back is larger than the front so if you take this for a fact you're in trouble here because you're cutting out for the headlight and the front is larger than the back here.
> 
> OK here's my redo of the headlight fender.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sand between cuts while you still have some level surfaces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I taped a piece a scrap wood under the odd shape to get it level for the final cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you notice the R's ans L's and the arrows showing which way the pictures should be facing, this will help keep every thing straight as you work.
> 
> I'm glad I got that all fixed and working right, it feels much better when a plans coming together and not falling apart. LOL
> 
> Finally got it glued in and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never fails but I need to put the wheels on and take it for a spin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we can get an idea what the pickup version of the Hummer will look like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's the grill maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have seen comments by some that they built a second project being not happy with the way the first one turned out, and I now understand where they were coming from.
> This project will get done and be ok but I just know it could have been way better.


Get Er Done Dude!!!

O!!! I'm happy just not used to things getting that far out of whack.
It's fun trying to figure a way to hide my buggered up places and turn them into pluses.

Now I'm trying to figure out a use for them backwards fenders, they look pretty cool there should be something I can use them for?


----------



## BruceBarber

htl said:


> *Hummer Working Back to going forward again I hope*
> 
> Went at my usual full speed ahead and it got me in trouble this time around.
> I know better than to take any thing on the Toys and Joys plans with out checking and rechecking that what it shows is what needs to be done.
> I"ve been building the easier plans here lately and to just jump in without really studying the plans is a recipe for trouble and sure enough had to do some back peddling to cover my mistakes and get on the straight and narrow.
> 
> So now all is good in Hummer ville and will try to keep my enthusiasm in check.
> 
> Ok where was I?
> Last I made the seats and added some cushions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sanded the back all flush and installed the tail gate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the front fenders and this is where I wasn't paying attention to business.
> There are two parts to each front fender plus a right and left.
> Well I did fine on the first set, right and left these are compound cuts so can get in trouble really quick if not paying attention
> but when I cut the smaller set that fits on top of the first I got my fronts and back mixed up and there was no way they were going to work so had to back up and make another set but this time I put arrows showing which way was front so no mistakes this time.
> 
> I would think T&J would mark the sets but that's right they don't give you but one set the right side and expect you to flip it around and get her done.
> Saves them some paper but this is one place where they could help their users out I would think.
> 
> I'm not saying this in a mad fit but some newer builders will be way lost on this part of the plans I would think.
> 
> After gluing up some parts needed to cut out for the gas filler.
> I used a router bit in the drill press to make the cut.
> Clamped down a speed square for a fence and held the part in a vice to be held securely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I figure out why the mistake, on most things the back is larger than the front so if you take this for a fact you're in trouble here because you're cutting out for the headlight and the front is larger than the back here.
> 
> OK here's my redo of the headlight fender.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sand between cuts while you still have some level surfaces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I taped a piece a scrap wood under the odd shape to get it level for the final cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you notice the R's ans L's and the arrows showing which way the pictures should be facing, this will help keep every thing straight as you work.
> 
> I'm glad I got that all fixed and working right, it feels much better when a plans coming together and not falling apart. LOL
> 
> Finally got it glued in and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Never fails but I need to put the wheels on and take it for a spin.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we can get an idea what the pickup version of the Hummer will look like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's the grill maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have seen comments by some that they built a second project being not happy with the way the first one turned out, and I now understand where they were coming from.
> This project will get done and be ok but I just know it could have been way better.


great job ,,, i have started doing my front fence ,, the T&J plans do not tell you much ,, 
your back window do you have a plan for it ?? i look at the picture but cannot see it that good


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer Working Back to going forward again I hope*
> 
> Went at my usual full speed ahead and it got me in trouble this time around.
> I know better than to take any thing on the Toys and Joys plans with out checking and rechecking that what it shows is what needs to be done.
> I"ve been building the easier plans here lately and to just jump in without really studying the plans is a recipe for trouble and sure enough had to do some back peddling to cover my mistakes and get on the straight and narrow.
> 
> So now all is good in Hummer ville and will try to keep my enthusiasm in check.
> 
> Ok where was I?
> Last I made the seats and added some cushions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sanded the back all flush and installed the tail gate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the front fenders and this is where I wasn't paying attention to business.
> There are two parts to each front fender plus a right and left.
> Well I did fine on the first set, right and left these are compound cuts so can get in trouble really quick if not paying attention
> but when I cut the smaller set that fits on top of the first I got my fronts and back mixed up and there was no way they were going to work so had to back up and make another set but this time I put arrows showing which way was front so no mistakes this time.
> 
> I would think T&J would mark the sets but that's right they don't give you but one set the right side and expect you to flip it around and get her done.
> Saves them some paper but this is one place where they could help their users out I would think.
> 
> I'm not saying this in a mad fit but some newer builders will be way lost on this part of the plans I would think.
> 
> After gluing up some parts needed to cut out for the gas filler.
> I used a router bit in the drill press to make the cut.
> Clamped down a speed square for a fence and held the part in a vice to be held securely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I figure out why the mistake, on most things the back is larger than the front so if you take this for a fact you're in trouble here because you're cutting out for the headlight and the front is larger than the back here.
> 
> OK here's my redo of the headlight fender.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sand between cuts while you still have some level surfaces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I taped a piece a scrap wood under the odd shape to get it level for the final cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you notice the R's ans L's and the arrows showing which way the pictures should be facing, this will help keep every thing straight as you work.
> 
> I'm glad I got that all fixed and working right, it feels much better when a plans coming together and not falling apart. LOL
> 
> Finally got it glued in and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never fails but I need to put the wheels on and take it for a spin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we can get an idea what the pickup version of the Hummer will look like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's the grill maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have seen comments by some that they built a second project being not happy with the way the first one turned out, and I now understand where they were coming from.
> This project will get done and be ok but I just know it could have been way better.


Bruce B
"do you have a plan for it" 
Sorry not really sure what your asking?
I liked the shape of the two small side windows so used them too.

I just made a copy of the back end picture and left in 3/8 at the bottom and top then used my Scroll Saw to cut out the windows.

On the real hummer pickups the back is straight up and down but I'm adding a little angle to it
I'm following the door windows shape so cut the back panel at 7° top and bottom.

Hope that helps.
#4


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Hummer Working Back to going forward again I hope*
> 
> Went at my usual full speed ahead and it got me in trouble this time around.
> I know better than to take any thing on the Toys and Joys plans with out checking and rechecking that what it shows is what needs to be done.
> I"ve been building the easier plans here lately and to just jump in without really studying the plans is a recipe for trouble and sure enough had to do some back peddling to cover my mistakes and get on the straight and narrow.
> 
> So now all is good in Hummer ville and will try to keep my enthusiasm in check.
> 
> Ok where was I?
> Last I made the seats and added some cushions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sanded the back all flush and installed the tail gate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the front fenders and this is where I wasn't paying attention to business.
> There are two parts to each front fender plus a right and left.
> Well I did fine on the first set, right and left these are compound cuts so can get in trouble really quick if not paying attention
> but when I cut the smaller set that fits on top of the first I got my fronts and back mixed up and there was no way they were going to work so had to back up and make another set but this time I put arrows showing which way was front so no mistakes this time.
> 
> I would think T&J would mark the sets but that's right they don't give you but one set the right side and expect you to flip it around and get her done.
> Saves them some paper but this is one place where they could help their users out I would think.
> 
> I'm not saying this in a mad fit but some newer builders will be way lost on this part of the plans I would think.
> 
> After gluing up some parts needed to cut out for the gas filler.
> I used a router bit in the drill press to make the cut.
> Clamped down a speed square for a fence and held the part in a vice to be held securely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I figure out why the mistake, on most things the back is larger than the front so if you take this for a fact you're in trouble here because you're cutting out for the headlight and the front is larger than the back here.
> 
> OK here's my redo of the headlight fender.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sand between cuts while you still have some level surfaces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I taped a piece a scrap wood under the odd shape to get it level for the final cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you notice the R's ans L's and the arrows showing which way the pictures should be facing, this will help keep every thing straight as you work.
> 
> I'm glad I got that all fixed and working right, it feels much better when a plans coming together and not falling apart. LOL
> 
> Finally got it glued in and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never fails but I need to put the wheels on and take it for a spin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we can get an idea what the pickup version of the Hummer will look like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's the grill maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have seen comments by some that they built a second project being not happy with the way the first one turned out, and I now understand where they were coming from.
> This project will get done and be ok but I just know it could have been way better.


Another great detailed description and advice to the next thrill-seeking builder.

I also appreciate the Duck friendly layout of the cumfy seats in pickie #1.

Just a quiet FYI. 


> ... I know better than to take any thing on the Toys and Joys plans with out checking and rechecking that what it shows is what needs to be done.
> ... and to just jump in without really studying the plans is a recipe for trouble…
> 
> ... newer builders will be way lost on this part of the plans I would think.
> 
> - htl


This is the exact reason I go to the trouble of using SketchUp. Importing emulates the build, which is a great bonus to me. Then during the build, just being able to see it in 3D has also been a great assist.



> I taped a piece a scrap wood under the odd shape to get it level for the final cut.


I use the scroll saw to cut these type of shapes that require compound cutting. It takes a hell of a lot longer than the bandsaw but it leaves such a small (and smooth) kerf that you can then tape the off cut to the piece to "rebuild" the block into a more stable victim for the upcoming compound cut. 


> ... It s fun trying to figure a way to hide my buggered up places and turn them into pluses.
> 
> Now I m trying to figure out a use for them backwards fenders, they look pretty cool there should be something I can use them for?
> 
> - htl


Sometimes you just can't hide the stuff ups. Don't feel too bad, the following are all the buggered up pieces that I haven't been able to use as scraps in other projects (yet).











> Bruce how did you notch out for the head light, some really clean work there.
> And thanks?
> 
> - htl


I believe you asked #3 about the headlight. I split the timber, naturally by accident as I'm not clever enough to plan it, and found I could cut the piece out (using the scroll saw) and gluing the bottom back on. I though that it was such a great idea that I did it to the other fender as well and I'm glad I did it this way as I had to repeat because of my stuff ups..


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Hummer Working Back to going forward again I hope*
> 
> Went at my usual full speed ahead and it got me in trouble this time around.
> I know better than to take any thing on the Toys and Joys plans with out checking and rechecking that what it shows is what needs to be done.
> I"ve been building the easier plans here lately and to just jump in without really studying the plans is a recipe for trouble and sure enough had to do some back peddling to cover my mistakes and get on the straight and narrow.
> 
> So now all is good in Hummer ville and will try to keep my enthusiasm in check.
> 
> Ok where was I?
> Last I made the seats and added some cushions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sanded the back all flush and installed the tail gate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the front fenders and this is where I wasn't paying attention to business.
> There are two parts to each front fender plus a right and left.
> Well I did fine on the first set, right and left these are compound cuts so can get in trouble really quick if not paying attention
> but when I cut the smaller set that fits on top of the first I got my fronts and back mixed up and there was no way they were going to work so had to back up and make another set but this time I put arrows showing which way was front so no mistakes this time.
> 
> I would think T&J would mark the sets but that's right they don't give you but one set the right side and expect you to flip it around and get her done.
> Saves them some paper but this is one place where they could help their users out I would think.
> 
> I'm not saying this in a mad fit but some newer builders will be way lost on this part of the plans I would think.
> 
> After gluing up some parts needed to cut out for the gas filler.
> I used a router bit in the drill press to make the cut.
> Clamped down a speed square for a fence and held the part in a vice to be held securely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I figure out why the mistake, on most things the back is larger than the front so if you take this for a fact you're in trouble here because you're cutting out for the headlight and the front is larger than the back here.
> 
> OK here's my redo of the headlight fender.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sand between cuts while you still have some level surfaces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I taped a piece a scrap wood under the odd shape to get it level for the final cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you notice the R's ans L's and the arrows showing which way the pictures should be facing, this will help keep every thing straight as you work.
> 
> I'm glad I got that all fixed and working right, it feels much better when a plans coming together and not falling apart. LOL
> 
> Finally got it glued in and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never fails but I need to put the wheels on and take it for a spin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we can get an idea what the pickup version of the Hummer will look like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's the grill maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have seen comments by some that they built a second project being not happy with the way the first one turned out, and I now understand where they were coming from.
> This project will get done and be ok but I just know it could have been way better.





> ... i have started doing my front fence ,, the T&J plans do not tell you much ,,
> your back window do you have a plan for it ?? i look at the picture but cannot see it that good
> 
> - Bruce Barber


Try Wallmart for your front fence, but I thought you were building a hummer?
Having built one front fence in the past life I may be able to shed light if you give me the size of the pickets (even if just a SketchUp screen dump).


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer Working Back to going forward again I hope*
> 
> Went at my usual full speed ahead and it got me in trouble this time around.
> I know better than to take any thing on the Toys and Joys plans with out checking and rechecking that what it shows is what needs to be done.
> I"ve been building the easier plans here lately and to just jump in without really studying the plans is a recipe for trouble and sure enough had to do some back peddling to cover my mistakes and get on the straight and narrow.
> 
> So now all is good in Hummer ville and will try to keep my enthusiasm in check.
> 
> Ok where was I?
> Last I made the seats and added some cushions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sanded the back all flush and installed the tail gate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the front fenders and this is where I wasn't paying attention to business.
> There are two parts to each front fender plus a right and left.
> Well I did fine on the first set, right and left these are compound cuts so can get in trouble really quick if not paying attention
> but when I cut the smaller set that fits on top of the first I got my fronts and back mixed up and there was no way they were going to work so had to back up and make another set but this time I put arrows showing which way was front so no mistakes this time.
> 
> I would think T&J would mark the sets but that's right they don't give you but one set the right side and expect you to flip it around and get her done.
> Saves them some paper but this is one place where they could help their users out I would think.
> 
> I'm not saying this in a mad fit but some newer builders will be way lost on this part of the plans I would think.
> 
> After gluing up some parts needed to cut out for the gas filler.
> I used a router bit in the drill press to make the cut.
> Clamped down a speed square for a fence and held the part in a vice to be held securely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I figure out why the mistake, on most things the back is larger than the front so if you take this for a fact you're in trouble here because you're cutting out for the headlight and the front is larger than the back here.
> 
> OK here's my redo of the headlight fender.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sand between cuts while you still have some level surfaces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I taped a piece a scrap wood under the odd shape to get it level for the final cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you notice the R's ans L's and the arrows showing which way the pictures should be facing, this will help keep every thing straight as you work.
> 
> I'm glad I got that all fixed and working right, it feels much better when a plans coming together and not falling apart. LOL
> 
> Finally got it glued in and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never fails but I need to put the wheels on and take it for a spin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we can get an idea what the pickup version of the Hummer will look like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's the grill maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have seen comments by some that they built a second project being not happy with the way the first one turned out, and I now understand where they were coming from.
> This project will get done and be ok but I just know it could have been way better.


*"I taped a piece a scrap wood under the odd shape to get it level for the final cut."*

Ducky usually when I cut out parts like this I'm just making one and can just tape it back together for the second cut but as you can see in the picture I ganged the cuts up close for lack of wood so didn't have a straight bottom for the second cut, so ended up having to find a scrap that would get the part level.
I guess it really wasn't a very good example to show but that's what I had to do so showed it in all it's ugly details. LOL


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer Working Back to going forward again I hope*
> 
> Went at my usual full speed ahead and it got me in trouble this time around.
> I know better than to take any thing on the Toys and Joys plans with out checking and rechecking that what it shows is what needs to be done.
> I"ve been building the easier plans here lately and to just jump in without really studying the plans is a recipe for trouble and sure enough had to do some back peddling to cover my mistakes and get on the straight and narrow.
> 
> So now all is good in Hummer ville and will try to keep my enthusiasm in check.
> 
> Ok where was I?
> Last I made the seats and added some cushions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sanded the back all flush and installed the tail gate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the front fenders and this is where I wasn't paying attention to business.
> There are two parts to each front fender plus a right and left.
> Well I did fine on the first set, right and left these are compound cuts so can get in trouble really quick if not paying attention
> but when I cut the smaller set that fits on top of the first I got my fronts and back mixed up and there was no way they were going to work so had to back up and make another set but this time I put arrows showing which way was front so no mistakes this time.
> 
> I would think T&J would mark the sets but that's right they don't give you but one set the right side and expect you to flip it around and get her done.
> Saves them some paper but this is one place where they could help their users out I would think.
> 
> I'm not saying this in a mad fit but some newer builders will be way lost on this part of the plans I would think.
> 
> After gluing up some parts needed to cut out for the gas filler.
> I used a router bit in the drill press to make the cut.
> Clamped down a speed square for a fence and held the part in a vice to be held securely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I figure out why the mistake, on most things the back is larger than the front so if you take this for a fact you're in trouble here because you're cutting out for the headlight and the front is larger than the back here.
> 
> OK here's my redo of the headlight fender.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sand between cuts while you still have some level surfaces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I taped a piece a scrap wood under the odd shape to get it level for the final cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you notice the R's ans L's and the arrows showing which way the pictures should be facing, this will help keep every thing straight as you work.
> 
> I'm glad I got that all fixed and working right, it feels much better when a plans coming together and not falling apart. LOL
> 
> Finally got it glued in and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never fails but I need to put the wheels on and take it for a spin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we can get an idea what the pickup version of the Hummer will look like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's the grill maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have seen comments by some that they built a second project being not happy with the way the first one turned out, and I now understand where they were coming from.
> This project will get done and be ok but I just know it could have been way better.


O!!! and I might add those cushions are birdy proof so sit on them all you want, I didn't say bullet proof I said birdy proof..


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Hummer Working Back to going forward again I hope*
> 
> Went at my usual full speed ahead and it got me in trouble this time around.
> I know better than to take any thing on the Toys and Joys plans with out checking and rechecking that what it shows is what needs to be done.
> I"ve been building the easier plans here lately and to just jump in without really studying the plans is a recipe for trouble and sure enough had to do some back peddling to cover my mistakes and get on the straight and narrow.
> 
> So now all is good in Hummer ville and will try to keep my enthusiasm in check.
> 
> Ok where was I?
> Last I made the seats and added some cushions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sanded the back all flush and installed the tail gate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the front fenders and this is where I wasn't paying attention to business.
> There are two parts to each front fender plus a right and left.
> Well I did fine on the first set, right and left these are compound cuts so can get in trouble really quick if not paying attention
> but when I cut the smaller set that fits on top of the first I got my fronts and back mixed up and there was no way they were going to work so had to back up and make another set but this time I put arrows showing which way was front so no mistakes this time.
> 
> I would think T&J would mark the sets but that's right they don't give you but one set the right side and expect you to flip it around and get her done.
> Saves them some paper but this is one place where they could help their users out I would think.
> 
> I'm not saying this in a mad fit but some newer builders will be way lost on this part of the plans I would think.
> 
> After gluing up some parts needed to cut out for the gas filler.
> I used a router bit in the drill press to make the cut.
> Clamped down a speed square for a fence and held the part in a vice to be held securely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I figure out why the mistake, on most things the back is larger than the front so if you take this for a fact you're in trouble here because you're cutting out for the headlight and the front is larger than the back here.
> 
> OK here's my redo of the headlight fender.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sand between cuts while you still have some level surfaces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I taped a piece a scrap wood under the odd shape to get it level for the final cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you notice the R's ans L's and the arrows showing which way the pictures should be facing, this will help keep every thing straight as you work.
> 
> I'm glad I got that all fixed and working right, it feels much better when a plans coming together and not falling apart. LOL
> 
> Finally got it glued in and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never fails but I need to put the wheels on and take it for a spin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we can get an idea what the pickup version of the Hummer will look like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's the grill maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have seen comments by some that they built a second project being not happy with the way the first one turned out, and I now understand where they were coming from.
> This project will get done and be ok but I just know it could have been way better.


Bruce you are powering on with this build, top photos & great build notes, thank you..

Love the seats and that front grill is beaut, sir, well done…


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Hummer Working Back to going forward again I hope*
> 
> Went at my usual full speed ahead and it got me in trouble this time around.
> I know better than to take any thing on the Toys and Joys plans with out checking and rechecking that what it shows is what needs to be done.
> I"ve been building the easier plans here lately and to just jump in without really studying the plans is a recipe for trouble and sure enough had to do some back peddling to cover my mistakes and get on the straight and narrow.
> 
> So now all is good in Hummer ville and will try to keep my enthusiasm in check.
> 
> Ok where was I?
> Last I made the seats and added some cushions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sanded the back all flush and installed the tail gate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the front fenders and this is where I wasn't paying attention to business.
> There are two parts to each front fender plus a right and left.
> Well I did fine on the first set, right and left these are compound cuts so can get in trouble really quick if not paying attention
> but when I cut the smaller set that fits on top of the first I got my fronts and back mixed up and there was no way they were going to work so had to back up and make another set but this time I put arrows showing which way was front so no mistakes this time.
> 
> I would think T&J would mark the sets but that's right they don't give you but one set the right side and expect you to flip it around and get her done.
> Saves them some paper but this is one place where they could help their users out I would think.
> 
> I'm not saying this in a mad fit but some newer builders will be way lost on this part of the plans I would think.
> 
> After gluing up some parts needed to cut out for the gas filler.
> I used a router bit in the drill press to make the cut.
> Clamped down a speed square for a fence and held the part in a vice to be held securely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I figure out why the mistake, on most things the back is larger than the front so if you take this for a fact you're in trouble here because you're cutting out for the headlight and the front is larger than the back here.
> 
> OK here's my redo of the headlight fender.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sand between cuts while you still have some level surfaces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I taped a piece a scrap wood under the odd shape to get it level for the final cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you notice the R's ans L's and the arrows showing which way the pictures should be facing, this will help keep every thing straight as you work.
> 
> I'm glad I got that all fixed and working right, it feels much better when a plans coming together and not falling apart. LOL
> 
> Finally got it glued in and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never fails but I need to put the wheels on and take it for a spin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we can get an idea what the pickup version of the Hummer will look like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's the grill maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have seen comments by some that they built a second project being not happy with the way the first one turned out, and I now understand where they were coming from.
> This project will get done and be ok but I just know it could have been way better.


As always you are in a hurry.

I'm enjoying. Like to see the building but also all the comments.

Keep on going.


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Hummer Working Back to going forward again I hope*
> 
> Went at my usual full speed ahead and it got me in trouble this time around.
> I know better than to take any thing on the Toys and Joys plans with out checking and rechecking that what it shows is what needs to be done.
> I"ve been building the easier plans here lately and to just jump in without really studying the plans is a recipe for trouble and sure enough had to do some back peddling to cover my mistakes and get on the straight and narrow.
> 
> So now all is good in Hummer ville and will try to keep my enthusiasm in check.
> 
> Ok where was I?
> Last I made the seats and added some cushions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sanded the back all flush and installed the tail gate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the front fenders and this is where I wasn't paying attention to business.
> There are two parts to each front fender plus a right and left.
> Well I did fine on the first set, right and left these are compound cuts so can get in trouble really quick if not paying attention
> but when I cut the smaller set that fits on top of the first I got my fronts and back mixed up and there was no way they were going to work so had to back up and make another set but this time I put arrows showing which way was front so no mistakes this time.
> 
> I would think T&J would mark the sets but that's right they don't give you but one set the right side and expect you to flip it around and get her done.
> Saves them some paper but this is one place where they could help their users out I would think.
> 
> I'm not saying this in a mad fit but some newer builders will be way lost on this part of the plans I would think.
> 
> After gluing up some parts needed to cut out for the gas filler.
> I used a router bit in the drill press to make the cut.
> Clamped down a speed square for a fence and held the part in a vice to be held securely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I figure out why the mistake, on most things the back is larger than the front so if you take this for a fact you're in trouble here because you're cutting out for the headlight and the front is larger than the back here.
> 
> OK here's my redo of the headlight fender.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sand between cuts while you still have some level surfaces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I taped a piece a scrap wood under the odd shape to get it level for the final cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you notice the R's ans L's and the arrows showing which way the pictures should be facing, this will help keep every thing straight as you work.
> 
> I'm glad I got that all fixed and working right, it feels much better when a plans coming together and not falling apart. LOL
> 
> Finally got it glued in and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never fails but I need to put the wheels on and take it for a spin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we can get an idea what the pickup version of the Hummer will look like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's the grill maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have seen comments by some that they built a second project being not happy with the way the first one turned out, and I now understand where they were coming from.
> This project will get done and be ok but I just know it could have been way better.


I gots 2 questions… 
.
.
1. What happened here? Was that a little "oops" you had to fix, or did the plans call for that little piece to be separate?
.








.
.
.
.
2. What's that I see over on the side there? How come you aint never posted any pic's of it. How 'bout a better pic of your scooter !
.


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Hummer Working Back to going forward again I hope*
> 
> Went at my usual full speed ahead and it got me in trouble this time around.
> I know better than to take any thing on the Toys and Joys plans with out checking and rechecking that what it shows is what needs to be done.
> I"ve been building the easier plans here lately and to just jump in without really studying the plans is a recipe for trouble and sure enough had to do some back peddling to cover my mistakes and get on the straight and narrow.
> 
> So now all is good in Hummer ville and will try to keep my enthusiasm in check.
> 
> Ok where was I?
> Last I made the seats and added some cushions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sanded the back all flush and installed the tail gate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the front fenders and this is where I wasn't paying attention to business.
> There are two parts to each front fender plus a right and left.
> Well I did fine on the first set, right and left these are compound cuts so can get in trouble really quick if not paying attention
> but when I cut the smaller set that fits on top of the first I got my fronts and back mixed up and there was no way they were going to work so had to back up and make another set but this time I put arrows showing which way was front so no mistakes this time.
> 
> I would think T&J would mark the sets but that's right they don't give you but one set the right side and expect you to flip it around and get her done.
> Saves them some paper but this is one place where they could help their users out I would think.
> 
> I'm not saying this in a mad fit but some newer builders will be way lost on this part of the plans I would think.
> 
> After gluing up some parts needed to cut out for the gas filler.
> I used a router bit in the drill press to make the cut.
> Clamped down a speed square for a fence and held the part in a vice to be held securely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I figure out why the mistake, on most things the back is larger than the front so if you take this for a fact you're in trouble here because you're cutting out for the headlight and the front is larger than the back here.
> 
> OK here's my redo of the headlight fender.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sand between cuts while you still have some level surfaces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I taped a piece a scrap wood under the odd shape to get it level for the final cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you notice the R's ans L's and the arrows showing which way the pictures should be facing, this will help keep every thing straight as you work.
> 
> I'm glad I got that all fixed and working right, it feels much better when a plans coming together and not falling apart. LOL
> 
> Finally got it glued in and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never fails but I need to put the wheels on and take it for a spin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we can get an idea what the pickup version of the Hummer will look like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's the grill maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have seen comments by some that they built a second project being not happy with the way the first one turned out, and I now understand where they were coming from.
> This project will get done and be ok but I just know it could have been way better.


Looking Good I am amazed at all the little detail work.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer Working Back to going forward again I hope*
> 
> Went at my usual full speed ahead and it got me in trouble this time around.
> I know better than to take any thing on the Toys and Joys plans with out checking and rechecking that what it shows is what needs to be done.
> I"ve been building the easier plans here lately and to just jump in without really studying the plans is a recipe for trouble and sure enough had to do some back peddling to cover my mistakes and get on the straight and narrow.
> 
> So now all is good in Hummer ville and will try to keep my enthusiasm in check.
> 
> Ok where was I?
> Last I made the seats and added some cushions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sanded the back all flush and installed the tail gate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the front fenders and this is where I wasn't paying attention to business.
> There are two parts to each front fender plus a right and left.
> Well I did fine on the first set, right and left these are compound cuts so can get in trouble really quick if not paying attention
> but when I cut the smaller set that fits on top of the first I got my fronts and back mixed up and there was no way they were going to work so had to back up and make another set but this time I put arrows showing which way was front so no mistakes this time.
> 
> I would think T&J would mark the sets but that's right they don't give you but one set the right side and expect you to flip it around and get her done.
> Saves them some paper but this is one place where they could help their users out I would think.
> 
> I'm not saying this in a mad fit but some newer builders will be way lost on this part of the plans I would think.
> 
> After gluing up some parts needed to cut out for the gas filler.
> I used a router bit in the drill press to make the cut.
> Clamped down a speed square for a fence and held the part in a vice to be held securely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I figure out why the mistake, on most things the back is larger than the front so if you take this for a fact you're in trouble here because you're cutting out for the headlight and the front is larger than the back here.
> 
> OK here's my redo of the headlight fender.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sand between cuts while you still have some level surfaces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I taped a piece a scrap wood under the odd shape to get it level for the final cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you notice the R's ans L's and the arrows showing which way the pictures should be facing, this will help keep every thing straight as you work.
> 
> I'm glad I got that all fixed and working right, it feels much better when a plans coming together and not falling apart. LOL
> 
> Finally got it glued in and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never fails but I need to put the wheels on and take it for a spin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we can get an idea what the pickup version of the Hummer will look like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's the grill maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have seen comments by some that they built a second project being not happy with the way the first one turned out, and I now understand where they were coming from.
> This project will get done and be ok but I just know it could have been way better.


JoeinGa










Machine gun is optional, I'm building the Civilian model.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer Working Back to going forward again I hope*
> 
> Went at my usual full speed ahead and it got me in trouble this time around.
> I know better than to take any thing on the Toys and Joys plans with out checking and rechecking that what it shows is what needs to be done.
> I"ve been building the easier plans here lately and to just jump in without really studying the plans is a recipe for trouble and sure enough had to do some back peddling to cover my mistakes and get on the straight and narrow.
> 
> So now all is good in Hummer ville and will try to keep my enthusiasm in check.
> 
> Ok where was I?
> Last I made the seats and added some cushions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sanded the back all flush and installed the tail gate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the front fenders and this is where I wasn't paying attention to business.
> There are two parts to each front fender plus a right and left.
> Well I did fine on the first set, right and left these are compound cuts so can get in trouble really quick if not paying attention
> but when I cut the smaller set that fits on top of the first I got my fronts and back mixed up and there was no way they were going to work so had to back up and make another set but this time I put arrows showing which way was front so no mistakes this time.
> 
> I would think T&J would mark the sets but that's right they don't give you but one set the right side and expect you to flip it around and get her done.
> Saves them some paper but this is one place where they could help their users out I would think.
> 
> I'm not saying this in a mad fit but some newer builders will be way lost on this part of the plans I would think.
> 
> After gluing up some parts needed to cut out for the gas filler.
> I used a router bit in the drill press to make the cut.
> Clamped down a speed square for a fence and held the part in a vice to be held securely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I figure out why the mistake, on most things the back is larger than the front so if you take this for a fact you're in trouble here because you're cutting out for the headlight and the front is larger than the back here.
> 
> OK here's my redo of the headlight fender.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sand between cuts while you still have some level surfaces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I taped a piece a scrap wood under the odd shape to get it level for the final cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you notice the R's ans L's and the arrows showing which way the pictures should be facing, this will help keep every thing straight as you work.
> 
> I'm glad I got that all fixed and working right, it feels much better when a plans coming together and not falling apart. LOL
> 
> Finally got it glued in and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never fails but I need to put the wheels on and take it for a spin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we can get an idea what the pickup version of the Hummer will look like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's the grill maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have seen comments by some that they built a second project being not happy with the way the first one turned out, and I now understand where they were coming from.
> This project will get done and be ok but I just know it could have been way better.


Or is that the Duck hunting attire???.


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Hummer Working Back to going forward again I hope*
> 
> Went at my usual full speed ahead and it got me in trouble this time around.
> I know better than to take any thing on the Toys and Joys plans with out checking and rechecking that what it shows is what needs to be done.
> I"ve been building the easier plans here lately and to just jump in without really studying the plans is a recipe for trouble and sure enough had to do some back peddling to cover my mistakes and get on the straight and narrow.
> 
> So now all is good in Hummer ville and will try to keep my enthusiasm in check.
> 
> Ok where was I?
> Last I made the seats and added some cushions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sanded the back all flush and installed the tail gate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the front fenders and this is where I wasn't paying attention to business.
> There are two parts to each front fender plus a right and left.
> Well I did fine on the first set, right and left these are compound cuts so can get in trouble really quick if not paying attention
> but when I cut the smaller set that fits on top of the first I got my fronts and back mixed up and there was no way they were going to work so had to back up and make another set but this time I put arrows showing which way was front so no mistakes this time.
> 
> I would think T&J would mark the sets but that's right they don't give you but one set the right side and expect you to flip it around and get her done.
> Saves them some paper but this is one place where they could help their users out I would think.
> 
> I'm not saying this in a mad fit but some newer builders will be way lost on this part of the plans I would think.
> 
> After gluing up some parts needed to cut out for the gas filler.
> I used a router bit in the drill press to make the cut.
> Clamped down a speed square for a fence and held the part in a vice to be held securely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I figure out why the mistake, on most things the back is larger than the front so if you take this for a fact you're in trouble here because you're cutting out for the headlight and the front is larger than the back here.
> 
> OK here's my redo of the headlight fender.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sand between cuts while you still have some level surfaces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I taped a piece a scrap wood under the odd shape to get it level for the final cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you notice the R's ans L's and the arrows showing which way the pictures should be facing, this will help keep every thing straight as you work.
> 
> I'm glad I got that all fixed and working right, it feels much better when a plans coming together and not falling apart. LOL
> 
> Finally got it glued in and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never fails but I need to put the wheels on and take it for a spin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we can get an idea what the pickup version of the Hummer will look like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's the grill maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have seen comments by some that they built a second project being not happy with the way the first one turned out, and I now understand where they were coming from.
> This project will get done and be ok but I just know it could have been way better.


Thanks,

I guess I never looked that close at a Hummer's body panels. Appreciate you clearing that up.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer Working Back to going forward again I hope*
> 
> Went at my usual full speed ahead and it got me in trouble this time around.
> I know better than to take any thing on the Toys and Joys plans with out checking and rechecking that what it shows is what needs to be done.
> I"ve been building the easier plans here lately and to just jump in without really studying the plans is a recipe for trouble and sure enough had to do some back peddling to cover my mistakes and get on the straight and narrow.
> 
> So now all is good in Hummer ville and will try to keep my enthusiasm in check.
> 
> Ok where was I?
> Last I made the seats and added some cushions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sanded the back all flush and installed the tail gate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the front fenders and this is where I wasn't paying attention to business.
> There are two parts to each front fender plus a right and left.
> Well I did fine on the first set, right and left these are compound cuts so can get in trouble really quick if not paying attention
> but when I cut the smaller set that fits on top of the first I got my fronts and back mixed up and there was no way they were going to work so had to back up and make another set but this time I put arrows showing which way was front so no mistakes this time.
> 
> I would think T&J would mark the sets but that's right they don't give you but one set the right side and expect you to flip it around and get her done.
> Saves them some paper but this is one place where they could help their users out I would think.
> 
> I'm not saying this in a mad fit but some newer builders will be way lost on this part of the plans I would think.
> 
> After gluing up some parts needed to cut out for the gas filler.
> I used a router bit in the drill press to make the cut.
> Clamped down a speed square for a fence and held the part in a vice to be held securely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I figure out why the mistake, on most things the back is larger than the front so if you take this for a fact you're in trouble here because you're cutting out for the headlight and the front is larger than the back here.
> 
> OK here's my redo of the headlight fender.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sand between cuts while you still have some level surfaces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I taped a piece a scrap wood under the odd shape to get it level for the final cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you notice the R's ans L's and the arrows showing which way the pictures should be facing, this will help keep every thing straight as you work.
> 
> I'm glad I got that all fixed and working right, it feels much better when a plans coming together and not falling apart. LOL
> 
> Finally got it glued in and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never fails but I need to put the wheels on and take it for a spin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we can get an idea what the pickup version of the Hummer will look like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's the grill maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have seen comments by some that they built a second project being not happy with the way the first one turned out, and I now understand where they were coming from.
> This project will get done and be ok but I just know it could have been way better.


Hey I make enough bugger without pointing out one that's really one of my prouder points cause that spot can get ugly real quick if you're not carefull.. 
Joe I never looked at it that close till I had to make it. lol


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer Working Back to going forward again I hope*
> 
> Went at my usual full speed ahead and it got me in trouble this time around.
> I know better than to take any thing on the Toys and Joys plans with out checking and rechecking that what it shows is what needs to be done.
> I"ve been building the easier plans here lately and to just jump in without really studying the plans is a recipe for trouble and sure enough had to do some back peddling to cover my mistakes and get on the straight and narrow.
> 
> So now all is good in Hummer ville and will try to keep my enthusiasm in check.
> 
> Ok where was I?
> Last I made the seats and added some cushions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sanded the back all flush and installed the tail gate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the front fenders and this is where I wasn't paying attention to business.
> There are two parts to each front fender plus a right and left.
> Well I did fine on the first set, right and left these are compound cuts so can get in trouble really quick if not paying attention
> but when I cut the smaller set that fits on top of the first I got my fronts and back mixed up and there was no way they were going to work so had to back up and make another set but this time I put arrows showing which way was front so no mistakes this time.
> 
> I would think T&J would mark the sets but that's right they don't give you but one set the right side and expect you to flip it around and get her done.
> Saves them some paper but this is one place where they could help their users out I would think.
> 
> I'm not saying this in a mad fit but some newer builders will be way lost on this part of the plans I would think.
> 
> After gluing up some parts needed to cut out for the gas filler.
> I used a router bit in the drill press to make the cut.
> Clamped down a speed square for a fence and held the part in a vice to be held securely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I figure out why the mistake, on most things the back is larger than the front so if you take this for a fact you're in trouble here because you're cutting out for the headlight and the front is larger than the back here.
> 
> OK here's my redo of the headlight fender.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sand between cuts while you still have some level surfaces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I taped a piece a scrap wood under the odd shape to get it level for the final cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you notice the R's ans L's and the arrows showing which way the pictures should be facing, this will help keep every thing straight as you work.
> 
> I'm glad I got that all fixed and working right, it feels much better when a plans coming together and not falling apart. LOL
> 
> Finally got it glued in and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never fails but I need to put the wheels on and take it for a spin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we can get an idea what the pickup version of the Hummer will look like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's the grill maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have seen comments by some that they built a second project being not happy with the way the first one turned out, and I now understand where they were coming from.
> This project will get done and be ok but I just know it could have been way better.





> Looking Good I am amazed at all the little detail work.
> 
> - oldrivers


oldrivers I use the little details to hide my mistakes, sad but true.

Have you ever wondered why I put a certain detail just so, well it's to hide buggers. LOL


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Hummer Working Back to going forward again I hope*
> 
> Went at my usual full speed ahead and it got me in trouble this time around.
> I know better than to take any thing on the Toys and Joys plans with out checking and rechecking that what it shows is what needs to be done.
> I"ve been building the easier plans here lately and to just jump in without really studying the plans is a recipe for trouble and sure enough had to do some back peddling to cover my mistakes and get on the straight and narrow.
> 
> So now all is good in Hummer ville and will try to keep my enthusiasm in check.
> 
> Ok where was I?
> Last I made the seats and added some cushions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sanded the back all flush and installed the tail gate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the front fenders and this is where I wasn't paying attention to business.
> There are two parts to each front fender plus a right and left.
> Well I did fine on the first set, right and left these are compound cuts so can get in trouble really quick if not paying attention
> but when I cut the smaller set that fits on top of the first I got my fronts and back mixed up and there was no way they were going to work so had to back up and make another set but this time I put arrows showing which way was front so no mistakes this time.
> 
> I would think T&J would mark the sets but that's right they don't give you but one set the right side and expect you to flip it around and get her done.
> Saves them some paper but this is one place where they could help their users out I would think.
> 
> I'm not saying this in a mad fit but some newer builders will be way lost on this part of the plans I would think.
> 
> After gluing up some parts needed to cut out for the gas filler.
> I used a router bit in the drill press to make the cut.
> Clamped down a speed square for a fence and held the part in a vice to be held securely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I figure out why the mistake, on most things the back is larger than the front so if you take this for a fact you're in trouble here because you're cutting out for the headlight and the front is larger than the back here.
> 
> OK here's my redo of the headlight fender.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sand between cuts while you still have some level surfaces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I taped a piece a scrap wood under the odd shape to get it level for the final cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you notice the R's ans L's and the arrows showing which way the pictures should be facing, this will help keep every thing straight as you work.
> 
> I'm glad I got that all fixed and working right, it feels much better when a plans coming together and not falling apart. LOL
> 
> Finally got it glued in and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Never fails but I need to put the wheels on and take it for a spin.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Now we can get an idea what the pickup version of the Hummer will look like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's the grill maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have seen comments by some that they built a second project being not happy with the way the first one turned out, and I now understand where they were coming from.
> This project will get done and be ok but I just know it could have been way better.





> I guess I never looked that close at a Hummer s body panels. Appreciate you clearing that up.
> 
> - JoeinGa


Cheeze Joe. How do you think they hide from the enemy. They pop the bonnet up so "*no can see*"!

And I always thought T&J threw that in to make cutting easier. Who says you can never teach an old Duck how to drink water…


----------



## htl

*Hummer working on the grill*

It's funny I already had the grill made and it still took me all day to get er done.
Here's what I had done yesterday.









Here's what it looks like this evening.










And here's what happened in between.

I don't have any head lights so made some up.
I was over at Hobby Lobby looking for some head lights and no joy but they did have some bowls that looked promising so lets see what we can come up with.

At the bottom of the second picture is the bowls but it needs a round center so took some hole plugs and sanded off the back and now have a nice round disk to glue in the bowl for the lite.










I glued one of the disks to the front and back and now have an old timey looking head light.


















I think I'm going to use some of the disks for my other lights on the truck.
Here's How they were made.

First drilled a hole with a bit just a tad bigger than the plug, ad a little saw dust to the bottom and put a plug in the hole face down.
Now sand the back of the disk till it's got the flat back like you want it.
May need to turn the plug around a couple a times to get an even back.





































So here's what I got for my efforts.









Now I need to hollow it out behind the grill work.


----------



## bruce317

htl said:


> *Hummer working on the grill*
> 
> It's funny I already had the grill made and it still took me all day to get er done.
> Here's what I had done yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what it looks like this evening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's what happened in between.
> 
> I don't have any head lights so made some up.
> I was over at Hobby Lobby looking for some head lights and no joy but they did have some bowls that looked promising so lets see what we can come up with.
> 
> At the bottom of the second picture is the bowls but it needs a round center so took some hole plugs and sanded off the back and now have a nice round disk to glue in the bowl for the lite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I glued one of the disks to the front and back and now have an old timey looking head light.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I'm going to use some of the disks for my other lights on the truck.
> Here's How they were made.
> 
> First drilled a hole with a bit just a tad bigger than the plug, ad a little saw dust to the bottom and put a plug in the hole face down.
> Now sand the back of the disk till it's got the flat back like you want it.
> May need to turn the plug around a couple a times to get an even back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's what I got for my efforts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to hollow it out behind the grill work.


Bruce,
Great job, as always!


----------



## Northwest29

htl said:


> *Hummer working on the grill*
> 
> It's funny I already had the grill made and it still took me all day to get er done.
> Here's what I had done yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what it looks like this evening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's what happened in between.
> 
> I don't have any head lights so made some up.
> I was over at Hobby Lobby looking for some head lights and no joy but they did have some bowls that looked promising so lets see what we can come up with.
> 
> At the bottom of the second picture is the bowls but it needs a round center so took some hole plugs and sanded off the back and now have a nice round disk to glue in the bowl for the lite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I glued one of the disks to the front and back and now have an old timey looking head light.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I'm going to use some of the disks for my other lights on the truck.
> Here's How they were made.
> 
> First drilled a hole with a bit just a tad bigger than the plug, ad a little saw dust to the bottom and put a plug in the hole face down.
> Now sand the back of the disk till it's got the flat back like you want it.
> May need to turn the plug around a couple a times to get an even back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's what I got for my efforts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to hollow it out behind the grill work.


Looks great - that's good thinking.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Hummer working on the grill*
> 
> It's funny I already had the grill made and it still took me all day to get er done.
> Here's what I had done yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what it looks like this evening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's what happened in between.
> 
> I don't have any head lights so made some up.
> I was over at Hobby Lobby looking for some head lights and no joy but they did have some bowls that looked promising so lets see what we can come up with.
> 
> At the bottom of the second picture is the bowls but it needs a round center so took some hole plugs and sanded off the back and now have a nice round disk to glue in the bowl for the lite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I glued one of the disks to the front and back and now have an old timey looking head light.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I'm going to use some of the disks for my other lights on the truck.
> Here's How they were made.
> 
> First drilled a hole with a bit just a tad bigger than the plug, ad a little saw dust to the bottom and put a plug in the hole face down.
> Now sand the back of the disk till it's got the flat back like you want it.
> May need to turn the plug around a couple a times to get an even back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's what I got for my efforts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to hollow it out behind the grill work.


Nice job. Like the concept of your customisable headlights.. It's scope is endless and potential to mix timber types (or even stain the separate pieces) can lead to great affects.

I may be preaching to the converted, but as I was never afraid of repeating myself. Not sure if you have used a similar concept as I do for taking off the top axle pegs, but your ingenuity for bending the rules might reduce sanding time by using a reversed engineering principle. You just may have to work on a *"catchers mitt"* for the flying top.









Now for something serious…..

After cutting out the holes for the grill, how the hell did you manage to paint them black????


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer working on the grill*
> 
> It's funny I already had the grill made and it still took me all day to get er done.
> Here's what I had done yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what it looks like this evening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's what happened in between.
> 
> I don't have any head lights so made some up.
> I was over at Hobby Lobby looking for some head lights and no joy but they did have some bowls that looked promising so lets see what we can come up with.
> 
> At the bottom of the second picture is the bowls but it needs a round center so took some hole plugs and sanded off the back and now have a nice round disk to glue in the bowl for the lite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I glued one of the disks to the front and back and now have an old timey looking head light.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I'm going to use some of the disks for my other lights on the truck.
> Here's How they were made.
> 
> First drilled a hole with a bit just a tad bigger than the plug, ad a little saw dust to the bottom and put a plug in the hole face down.
> Now sand the back of the disk till it's got the flat back like you want it.
> May need to turn the plug around a couple a times to get an even back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's what I got for my efforts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to hollow it out behind the grill work.


Ducky back up to the second, third and fourth pictures and look really close you can see a shadow in the grill.
I routed out about 3/8" behind the headlights and grill then stained it, wish now I would have routed it a little deeper and put some oak in there but hindsight is always 20-20.

I kind a used the same idea on the Mack truck headlight.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Hummer working on the grill*
> 
> It's funny I already had the grill made and it still took me all day to get er done.
> Here's what I had done yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what it looks like this evening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's what happened in between.
> 
> I don't have any head lights so made some up.
> I was over at Hobby Lobby looking for some head lights and no joy but they did have some bowls that looked promising so lets see what we can come up with.
> 
> At the bottom of the second picture is the bowls but it needs a round center so took some hole plugs and sanded off the back and now have a nice round disk to glue in the bowl for the lite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I glued one of the disks to the front and back and now have an old timey looking head light.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I'm going to use some of the disks for my other lights on the truck.
> Here's How they were made.
> 
> First drilled a hole with a bit just a tad bigger than the plug, ad a little saw dust to the bottom and put a plug in the hole face down.
> Now sand the back of the disk till it's got the flat back like you want it.
> May need to turn the plug around a couple a times to get an even back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's what I got for my efforts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to hollow it out behind the grill work.


Had me worried… I thought you might have discovered how to keep the paint from falling out of the holes.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Hummer working on the grill*
> 
> It's funny I already had the grill made and it still took me all day to get er done.
> Here's what I had done yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what it looks like this evening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's what happened in between.
> 
> I don't have any head lights so made some up.
> I was over at Hobby Lobby looking for some head lights and no joy but they did have some bowls that looked promising so lets see what we can come up with.
> 
> At the bottom of the second picture is the bowls but it needs a round center so took some hole plugs and sanded off the back and now have a nice round disk to glue in the bowl for the lite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I glued one of the disks to the front and back and now have an old timey looking head light.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I'm going to use some of the disks for my other lights on the truck.
> Here's How they were made.
> 
> First drilled a hole with a bit just a tad bigger than the plug, ad a little saw dust to the bottom and put a plug in the hole face down.
> Now sand the back of the disk till it's got the flat back like you want it.
> May need to turn the plug around a couple a times to get an even back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's what I got for my efforts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to hollow it out behind the grill work.


That grill looks almost impossible to me. You did it. Nice lamp construction.

Thanks for your contribution.


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Hummer working on the grill*
> 
> It's funny I already had the grill made and it still took me all day to get er done.
> Here's what I had done yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what it looks like this evening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's what happened in between.
> 
> I don't have any head lights so made some up.
> I was over at Hobby Lobby looking for some head lights and no joy but they did have some bowls that looked promising so lets see what we can come up with.
> 
> At the bottom of the second picture is the bowls but it needs a round center so took some hole plugs and sanded off the back and now have a nice round disk to glue in the bowl for the lite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I glued one of the disks to the front and back and now have an old timey looking head light.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I'm going to use some of the disks for my other lights on the truck.
> Here's How they were made.
> 
> First drilled a hole with a bit just a tad bigger than the plug, ad a little saw dust to the bottom and put a plug in the hole face down.
> Now sand the back of the disk till it's got the flat back like you want it.
> May need to turn the plug around a couple a times to get an even back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's what I got for my efforts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to hollow it out behind the grill work.


Nice job on the grille.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer working on the grill*
> 
> It's funny I already had the grill made and it still took me all day to get er done.
> Here's what I had done yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what it looks like this evening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's what happened in between.
> 
> I don't have any head lights so made some up.
> I was over at Hobby Lobby looking for some head lights and no joy but they did have some bowls that looked promising so lets see what we can come up with.
> 
> At the bottom of the second picture is the bowls but it needs a round center so took some hole plugs and sanded off the back and now have a nice round disk to glue in the bowl for the lite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I glued one of the disks to the front and back and now have an old timey looking head light.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I'm going to use some of the disks for my other lights on the truck.
> Here's How they were made.
> 
> First drilled a hole with a bit just a tad bigger than the plug, ad a little saw dust to the bottom and put a plug in the hole face down.
> Now sand the back of the disk till it's got the flat back like you want it.
> May need to turn the plug around a couple a times to get an even back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's what I got for my efforts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to hollow it out behind the grill work.


Thanks guys
I really didn't mean to get the holes that close together but was trying to figure a way to make the grooves and saw it wasn't going to work so this is what it ended up being.
I super glued the back to be sure it wouldn't fall apart down the road.
I would think plywood would be stronger but how would you hide the edge?


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Hummer working on the grill*
> 
> It's funny I already had the grill made and it still took me all day to get er done.
> Here's what I had done yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what it looks like this evening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's what happened in between.
> 
> I don't have any head lights so made some up.
> I was over at Hobby Lobby looking for some head lights and no joy but they did have some bowls that looked promising so lets see what we can come up with.
> 
> At the bottom of the second picture is the bowls but it needs a round center so took some hole plugs and sanded off the back and now have a nice round disk to glue in the bowl for the lite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I glued one of the disks to the front and back and now have an old timey looking head light.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I'm going to use some of the disks for my other lights on the truck.
> Here's How they were made.
> 
> First drilled a hole with a bit just a tad bigger than the plug, ad a little saw dust to the bottom and put a plug in the hole face down.
> Now sand the back of the disk till it's got the flat back like you want it.
> May need to turn the plug around a couple a times to get an even back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's what I got for my efforts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to hollow it out behind the grill work.


Thank you again Bruce…
I enjoy the photos as they really help blokes like me see how things are done…Much appreciated sir!!


----------



## htl

*Hummer It's a slow go on the details.*

Slow going but getting in the details.
Finished up the inside so sealed it with some danish oil finish.









Had to sand off the back of the rear headrests so the back could lean in just right.
Kinda like the look of the cut off headrest, need to file that away for future use.










Here's a better look of the grill.

I had to force myself from putting on the bush guard, really going to make the front end me thinks but still have a lot a little stuff where I will be needing to lay it on it's side so no bush guard at this time. :-[


















Working on some doors.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Hummer It's a slow go on the details.*
> 
> Slow going but getting in the details.
> Finished up the inside so sealed it with some danish oil finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to sand off the back of the rear headrests so the back could lean in just right.
> Kinda like the look of the cut off headrest, need to file that away for future use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a better look of the grill.
> 
> I had to force myself from putting on the bush guard, really going to make the front end me thinks but still have a lot a little stuff where I will be needing to lay it on it's side so no bush guard at this time. :-[
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Working on some doors.


man that thing looks HUGE 
but very great job on it


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer It's a slow go on the details.*
> 
> Slow going but getting in the details.
> Finished up the inside so sealed it with some danish oil finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to sand off the back of the rear headrests so the back could lean in just right.
> Kinda like the look of the cut off headrest, need to file that away for future use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a better look of the grill.
> 
> I had to force myself from putting on the bush guard, really going to make the front end me thinks but still have a lot a little stuff where I will be needing to lay it on it's side so no bush guard at this time. :-[
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Working on some doors.


Hunter I have no idea where I'm going to keep it as you say this thing is* HUGE*
I may need to add another garage to keep it in. LOL
Most of my other T&J projects I shrunk them down to 2/3's.
But as I've said before if you want to add details the bigger the better.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Hummer It's a slow go on the details.*
> 
> Slow going but getting in the details.
> Finished up the inside so sealed it with some danish oil finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to sand off the back of the rear headrests so the back could lean in just right.
> Kinda like the look of the cut off headrest, need to file that away for future use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a better look of the grill.
> 
> I had to force myself from putting on the bush guard, really going to make the front end me thinks but still have a lot a little stuff where I will be needing to lay it on it's side so no bush guard at this time. :-[
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Working on some doors.


Nice Bruce,

BTW Your battery has been charged.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Hummer It's a slow go on the details.*
> 
> Slow going but getting in the details.
> Finished up the inside so sealed it with some danish oil finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to sand off the back of the rear headrests so the back could lean in just right.
> Kinda like the look of the cut off headrest, need to file that away for future use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a better look of the grill.
> 
> I had to force myself from putting on the bush guard, really going to make the front end me thinks but still have a lot a little stuff where I will be needing to lay it on it's side so no bush guard at this time. :-[
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Working on some doors.


Really pops with that *lil dab'l doya *oil… Kinda takes me back to my teens and the good old *Brylcreem* days.

Bit selfish though… where's the back cushions for the passengers? Not being a military vehicle, they're not gonna be hardened mercenaries.

*BTW, BTW *Your battery has been charged. Dutchy mentioned it a while back and if you don't take it out you may cook the battery (or at least keep wasting 'lectricity).


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Hummer It's a slow go on the details.*
> 
> Slow going but getting in the details.
> Finished up the inside so sealed it with some danish oil finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to sand off the back of the rear headrests so the back could lean in just right.
> Kinda like the look of the cut off headrest, need to file that away for future use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a better look of the grill.
> 
> I had to force myself from putting on the bush guard, really going to make the front end me thinks but still have a lot a little stuff where I will be needing to lay it on it's side so no bush guard at this time. :-[
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Working on some doors.


That looks good Bruce, the finish on the timber sure does bring it alive…


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## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer It's a slow go on the details.*
> 
> Slow going but getting in the details.
> Finished up the inside so sealed it with some danish oil finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to sand off the back of the rear headrests so the back could lean in just right.
> Kinda like the look of the cut off headrest, need to file that away for future use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a better look of the grill.
> 
> I had to force myself from putting on the bush guard, really going to make the front end me thinks but still have a lot a little stuff where I will be needing to lay it on it's side so no bush guard at this time. :-[
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Working on some doors.





> That looks good Bruce, the finish on the timber sure does bring it alive…
> 
> - crowie


Watco Danish oil
It also come in 3 different shades.
What I like about it is just wipe it on and wait a little while and wipe off, great for those hard to reach areas just flood it and it will sock it's way and cover it all.
Not made for true protection for things that will be used a lot but sure brings out the grain in models.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Hummer It's a slow go on the details.*
> 
> Slow going but getting in the details.
> Finished up the inside so sealed it with some danish oil finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to sand off the back of the rear headrests so the back could lean in just right.
> Kinda like the look of the cut off headrest, need to file that away for future use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a better look of the grill.
> 
> I had to force myself from putting on the bush guard, really going to make the front end me thinks but still have a lot a little stuff where I will be needing to lay it on it's side so no bush guard at this time. :-[
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Working on some doors.





> It also come in *3 different shades*.
> 
> - htl


C'mon #4, you can't even have breakfast without us (me) Aussies watching you…

Sure as chips more economical than the *feminine 50 shades*...

I'm an Organ Oil Hard Burnishing Oil fan… It may be rubbish but it smells great… Furthermore, my preference is* Dames *not *Danes* (sorry SWMBO.. I know I will be)...

*VOV* (*V*ictim *O*f *V*ino)


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer It's a slow go on the details.*
> 
> Slow going but getting in the details.
> Finished up the inside so sealed it with some danish oil finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to sand off the back of the rear headrests so the back could lean in just right.
> Kinda like the look of the cut off headrest, need to file that away for future use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a better look of the grill.
> 
> I had to force myself from putting on the bush guard, really going to make the front end me thinks but still have a lot a little stuff where I will be needing to lay it on it's side so no bush guard at this time. :-[
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Working on some doors.


Thanks Ducky I wasn't sure if Watco got down under so your post helps those in the need down under.
I really shouldn't go by the brand it's a *Danish oil wipe on application.*
Does it help your feathers from the rain also?


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Hummer It's a slow go on the details.*
> 
> Slow going but getting in the details.
> Finished up the inside so sealed it with some danish oil finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to sand off the back of the rear headrests so the back could lean in just right.
> Kinda like the look of the cut off headrest, need to file that away for future use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a better look of the grill.
> 
> I had to force myself from putting on the bush guard, really going to make the front end me thinks but still have a lot a little stuff where I will be needing to lay it on it's side so no bush guard at this time. :-[
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Working on some doors.





> I m an Organ Oil Hard Burnishing Oil fan… It may be rubbish but it smells great… Furthermore, my preference is* Dames *not *Danes* (sorry SWMBO.. I know I will be)...
> 
> *VOV* (*V*ictim *O*f *V*ino)
> 
> - LittleBlackDuck


ye but …........ organ oil ....... sound dirty to me …........ LOL


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Hummer It's a slow go on the details.*
> 
> Slow going but getting in the details.
> Finished up the inside so sealed it with some danish oil finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to sand off the back of the rear headrests so the back could lean in just right.
> Kinda like the look of the cut off headrest, need to file that away for future use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a better look of the grill.
> 
> I had to force myself from putting on the bush guard, really going to make the front end me thinks but still have a lot a little stuff where I will be needing to lay it on it's side so no bush guard at this time. :-[
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Working on some doors.





> ... *Danish oil wipe on application.*
> Does it help your feathers from the rain also?
> 
> - htl


Why DO I find it hard to fly??...

With a serious frown on the plumage.
I had it read to me that *DO* takes about 2 weeks to cure (the brand I use) while *TO* (my choice of Organ oil brand) takes about 1 week. I have also found that *DO* does give it a tad darker hue and it depends on my need whether that is desirable. Not sure if Watco is available but I seem to remember the name (or is it *Watco*me to my brewery).

Cheeze I hate advertising products… but while we (you Shirley) mentioned "*wipe on*" I am a fan of MinWax "Wipe on Poly" (*I *stay away from *F*east*W*atsom "Wipe On Poly" - 4 Aussie readers). Like you I hate to promote but then, I at times are asked for opinions and I will state what I prefer/use). This time I will say that I tried the *FW* and was not that impressed… however, the MinWax should be renamed "*hens teeth in Australia*" (unless you live near a fading Masters) as it's near impossible to source… (thank you Internet).


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Hummer It's a slow go on the details.*
> 
> Slow going but getting in the details.
> Finished up the inside so sealed it with some danish oil finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to sand off the back of the rear headrests so the back could lean in just right.
> Kinda like the look of the cut off headrest, need to file that away for future use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a better look of the grill.
> 
> I had to force myself from putting on the bush guard, really going to make the front end me thinks but still have a lot a little stuff where I will be needing to lay it on it's side so no bush guard at this time. :-[
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Working on some doors.





> ye but …........ organ oil ....... sound *dirty* to me …........ LOL
> 
> - GR8HUNTER


You really didn't expect to stay an untouched/responded virgin???

I am sobering up and the missus'es have remover the *VOV* tattoo off my back.
With *clean* language and commitment to this post (now that I have started typing)... while I'm still typing (bleeding on-line stuff… will never take off), I now get an "*Hi-Dee-Do*" about you having posted some more (*dirty*) pictures… I will channel all my organic venom there and try to retain sanity in young *htl'*s post.


----------



## htl

*Hummer Knocking at the door #9*

Well I finally figured what I'd do with the doors.


















Took it for another ride.



























I want to put the grill on so bad.









I ebonized an extra tire just to see what it would look like, had a bit of a smoky brown look to it but will add a little finish to it tomorrow and see if that livens it up.


















Getting closer to a fine finish.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Hummer Knocking at the door #9*
> 
> Well I finally figured what I'd do with the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took it for another ride.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to put the grill on so bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ebonized an extra tire just to see what it would look like, had a bit of a smoky brown look to it but will add a little finish to it tomorrow and see if that livens it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer to a fine finish.


I like the ebonizing BRUCE finish should make it pop very nicely


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## diggerdelaney

htl said:


> *Hummer Knocking at the door #9*
> 
> Well I finally figured what I'd do with the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Took it for another ride.
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to put the grill on so bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ebonized an extra tire just to see what it would look like, had a bit of a smoky brown look to it but will add a little finish to it tomorrow and see if that livens it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer to a fine finish.


I think it just adds that little colour to the wheel and makes them stand out. Great job


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Hummer Knocking at the door #9*
> 
> Well I finally figured what I'd do with the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took it for another ride.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to put the grill on so bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ebonized an extra tire just to see what it would look like, had a bit of a smoky brown look to it but will add a little finish to it tomorrow and see if that livens it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer to a fine finish.


Coming along very nicely, how many hours invested already?


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## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer Knocking at the door #9*
> 
> Well I finally figured what I'd do with the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took it for another ride.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to put the grill on so bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ebonized an extra tire just to see what it would look like, had a bit of a smoky brown look to it but will add a little finish to it tomorrow and see if that livens it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer to a fine finish.


I've lost count but I pretty well post every day I work at least 5 hours so that would be pretty close.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Hummer Knocking at the door #9*
> 
> Well I finally figured what I'd do with the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took it for another ride.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to put the grill on so bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ebonized an extra tire just to see what it would look like, had a bit of a smoky brown look to it but will add a little finish to it tomorrow and see if that livens it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer to a fine finish.





> ... I ebonized an extra tire just to see what it would look like…
> - htl


Usually photos do not fully do justice, however, you seem to have snagged it.

They do look good even in "*smoky brown*". Sorry #4, I kinda say that in sympathy as I have also always *browned* my test ebonizing and haven't been happy enough with the results to put into practice. As Jonesy said in one of his posts maybe a cuppa tea (tannin) may help if you want darker. I am waiting for a shipment of "tannin powder" I thought I'd try through the Internet to see what results.

However, I would not be disappointed if my wheels turned our as good as yours… Unless you used Photoshop to tuch them up…

*PS* Just to throw a spanner into the works… The T&J wheels (whatever timber they're made out of) turn out an interesting bronze colour if you black stain it over tung oil (Organoil in my case). Maybe something worth filing away in the brain, above "*the line*" (mainframe computer speak) that alcohol doesn't affect.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer Knocking at the door #9*
> 
> Well I finally figured what I'd do with the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took it for another ride.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to put the grill on so bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ebonized an extra tire just to see what it would look like, had a bit of a smoky brown look to it but will add a little finish to it tomorrow and see if that livens it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer to a fine finish.


Thanks Ducky!
It's funny how our minds work was looking for black to look like rubber tire but a nice dark brown would fit in better with all the brown wood.
Testing tomorrow. LOL
To tell the truth I really don't like working with water based anything on my models don't like the grain raising.
Really will need to sand the wheels but don't sand the ebonized it will rub off HAAAAA!!!!
Beginning to think it's not worth the trouble.


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Hummer Knocking at the door #9*
> 
> Well I finally figured what I'd do with the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took it for another ride.
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to put the grill on so bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ebonized an extra tire just to see what it would look like, had a bit of a smoky brown look to it but will add a little finish to it tomorrow and see if that livens it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer to a fine finish.


Bruce normally after a lacquer spray finish the tires/tyres will be black. Sand with steel wool to prevent rub off or even better sometimes I use a hard brush. From brushing the tires/tyres mostly also get darker.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Hummer Knocking at the door #9*
> 
> Well I finally figured what I'd do with the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took it for another ride.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> I want to put the grill on so bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ebonized an extra tire just to see what it would look like, had a bit of a smoky brown look to it but will add a little finish to it tomorrow and see if that livens it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer to a fine finish.





> ... water based anything on my models don t like the grain raising.
> Really will need to sand the wheels but don t sand the ebonized it will rub off HAAAAA!!!!
> 
> - htl


A*greed* (and that's not because I'm selfish), water is stuff fish do things in that I would get censored for if I elucidated.

#4, I think I'm becoming a spruiker without the pay… I may have mentioned b4 that I will try anything for the sake of progress… I came across a site a while back and have religiously (mea culpa) stuck with. These sandpapers I found amongst other uses, great for those touch-ups where rigid paper was a tad too much. Though costly on first sight… I got some and spread the cost with friends which would have made it cheap if I could have found someone to share with… (just gagging… they all jumped on board). They are ideal for sandovers to remove the grain without effort and jeopardise the timber (and finish) below.

*BTW* Worse comes to worse… what's wrong with furry wheels. I'd break the fingers of anyone that dared to touch them.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Hummer Knocking at the door #9*
> 
> Well I finally figured what I'd do with the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took it for another ride.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> I want to put the grill on so bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ebonized an extra tire just to see what it would look like, had a bit of a smoky brown look to it but will add a little finish to it tomorrow and see if that livens it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer to a fine finish.





> Bruce normally after a *lacquer *spray finish the tires/tyres will be black. Sand with steel wool to prevent rub off.
> 
> - Dutchy


Just remember to use *black laquer*... Sorry D'y..


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Hummer Knocking at the door #9*
> 
> Well I finally figured what I'd do with the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took it for another ride.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> I want to put the grill on so bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ebonized an extra tire just to see what it would look like, had a bit of a smoky brown look to it but will add a little finish to it tomorrow and see if that livens it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer to a fine finish.


This one is really coming together well Bruce…enjoying watching you showoff your craftsmanship sir, thank you.


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Hummer Knocking at the door #9*
> 
> Well I finally figured what I'd do with the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> Took it for another ride.
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to put the grill on so bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ebonized an extra tire just to see what it would look like, had a bit of a smoky brown look to it but will add a little finish to it tomorrow and see if that livens it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer to a fine finish.





> Bruce normally after a *lacquer *spray finish the tires/tyres will be black. Sand with steel wool to prevent rub off.
> 
> - Dutchy
> 
> Just remember to use *black laquer*... Sorry D y..
> 
> - LittleBlackDuck


You are right Little*Black*Duck. I should have wrote a clear lacquer. Sorry Ducky.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer Knocking at the door #9*
> 
> Well I finally figured what I'd do with the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took it for another ride.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to put the grill on so bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ebonized an extra tire just to see what it would look like, had a bit of a smoky brown look to it but will add a little finish to it tomorrow and see if that livens it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer to a fine finish.


Dutchy you were right the minute, well second I put the danish oil to it it darkened up just right.
For some reason there was a white spot on the side wall so sanded it out just to see what a dark tread and dark danish oil would look like.
And here's the other tires all blacked out tomorrow I'll put the danish oil to them once they're good and dry.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Hummer Knocking at the door #9*
> 
> Well I finally figured what I'd do with the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took it for another ride.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to put the grill on so bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ebonized an extra tire just to see what it would look like, had a bit of a smoky brown look to it but will add a little finish to it tomorrow and see if that livens it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer to a fine finish.


Good to see you had the foresight not to glue the rims in.



> ... there was a *white* spot on the side wall …
> 
> - htl


Distant cousin, the slow moving *White Duck*,,,


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer Knocking at the door #9*
> 
> Well I finally figured what I'd do with the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took it for another ride.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to put the grill on so bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ebonized an extra tire just to see what it would look like, had a bit of a smoky brown look to it but will add a little finish to it tomorrow and see if that livens it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer to a fine finish.


I was thinking the same thing Ducky, the minute we all got talking about blacking them.
I still don't like the water base but it is what it is.
Seems like I mentioned I was going to leave the wheels and let the Hummer tell me what it wanted and here we are.


----------



## htl

*Hummer Almost there*

I really like the Dark Danish oil!!!
It has some walnut stain in it and sinks into the grain and darkens it so it really shows up in the oak.
I got the bumpers on and all the little side panels and gas filler, all I really have left is the back stop lights and the windshield post.
O! and I still need to build the rack and radiator grill, I made one grill but it just wouldn't bend enough over the hood so will need to make a few things and get the wheels oiled up.
May look into building some fences for the back of the pickup. [Can't think what you call them???]




































I used the clear Danish oil on the inside and while I was painting the out side I used the same for the upper part of the inside so it's now two tone on the inside cool!!!


















Got the bush guard and back bumpers on, *just love the bush guard*!!!


















The extra wheel I darkened turned out great but the side wall had a white spot don't know if it was a greasy fingerprint or what so sanded it out and put the oil finish on it just to see what the black tread and dark danish oil would look like.
Here's the wheels before the danish oil, tomorrow I'll know if they're going to work but from what I see so far they're looking great.









If all goes well should have it all finished tomorrow.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Hummer Almost there*
> 
> I really like the Dark Danish oil!!!
> It has some walnut stain in it and sinks into the grain and darkens it so it really shows up in the oak.
> I got the bumpers on and all the little side panels and gas filler, all I really have left is the back stop lights and the windshield post.
> O! and I still need to build the rack and radiator grill, I made one grill but it just wouldn't bend enough over the hood so will need to make a few things and get the wheels oiled up.
> May look into building some fences for the back of the pickup. [Can't think what you call them???]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used the clear Danish oil on the inside and while I was painting the out side I used the same for the upper part of the inside so it's now two tone on the inside cool!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got the bush guard and back bumpers on, *just love the bush guard*!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The extra wheel I darkened turned out great but the side wall had a white spot don't know if it was a greasy fingerprint or what so sanded it out and put the oil finish on it just to see what the black tread and dark danish oil would look like.
> Here's the wheels before the danish oil, tomorrow I'll know if they're going to work but from what I see so far they're looking great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If all goes well should have it all finished tomorrow.


Yes Bruce, Some of the grain in the timber has really been highlighted with the stain…beautiful.


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Hummer Almost there*
> 
> I really like the Dark Danish oil!!!
> It has some walnut stain in it and sinks into the grain and darkens it so it really shows up in the oak.
> I got the bumpers on and all the little side panels and gas filler, all I really have left is the back stop lights and the windshield post.
> O! and I still need to build the rack and radiator grill, I made one grill but it just wouldn't bend enough over the hood so will need to make a few things and get the wheels oiled up.
> May look into building some fences for the back of the pickup. [Can't think what you call them???]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used the clear Danish oil on the inside and while I was painting the out side I used the same for the upper part of the inside so it's now two tone on the inside cool!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got the bush guard and back bumpers on, *just love the bush guard*!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The extra wheel I darkened turned out great but the side wall had a white spot don't know if it was a greasy fingerprint or what so sanded it out and put the oil finish on it just to see what the black tread and dark danish oil would look like.
> Here's the wheels before the danish oil, tomorrow I'll know if they're going to work but from what I see so far they're looking great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If all goes well should have it all finished tomorrow.


Ok lets see.. couple observations…

The grain in the hood looks GREAT !

I also love the brush guard. It looks great too.

But you know what would look REALLY COOL ??

This picture made me think of it. 
.








.
.
.
You need to mount a 50cal MACHINE GUN on the roof !


----------



## bruce317

htl said:


> *Hummer Almost there*
> 
> I really like the Dark Danish oil!!!
> It has some walnut stain in it and sinks into the grain and darkens it so it really shows up in the oak.
> I got the bumpers on and all the little side panels and gas filler, all I really have left is the back stop lights and the windshield post.
> O! and I still need to build the rack and radiator grill, I made one grill but it just wouldn't bend enough over the hood so will need to make a few things and get the wheels oiled up.
> May look into building some fences for the back of the pickup. [Can't think what you call them???]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used the clear Danish oil on the inside and while I was painting the out side I used the same for the upper part of the inside so it's now two tone on the inside cool!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got the bush guard and back bumpers on, *just love the bush guard*!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The extra wheel I darkened turned out great but the side wall had a white spot don't know if it was a greasy fingerprint or what so sanded it out and put the oil finish on it just to see what the black tread and dark danish oil would look like.
> Here's the wheels before the danish oil, tomorrow I'll know if they're going to work but from what I see so far they're looking great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If all goes well should have it all finished tomorrow.


Looking like a million bucks! Great work Bruce.
Believe the lost word is "Racks".


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer Almost there*
> 
> I really like the Dark Danish oil!!!
> It has some walnut stain in it and sinks into the grain and darkens it so it really shows up in the oak.
> I got the bumpers on and all the little side panels and gas filler, all I really have left is the back stop lights and the windshield post.
> O! and I still need to build the rack and radiator grill, I made one grill but it just wouldn't bend enough over the hood so will need to make a few things and get the wheels oiled up.
> May look into building some fences for the back of the pickup. [Can't think what you call them???]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used the clear Danish oil on the inside and while I was painting the out side I used the same for the upper part of the inside so it's now two tone on the inside cool!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got the bush guard and back bumpers on, *just love the bush guard*!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The extra wheel I darkened turned out great but the side wall had a white spot don't know if it was a greasy fingerprint or what so sanded it out and put the oil finish on it just to see what the black tread and dark danish oil would look like.
> Here's the wheels before the danish oil, tomorrow I'll know if they're going to work but from what I see so far they're looking great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If all goes well should have it all finished tomorrow.


That's it racks. Duuuuaaaa!!!!
No weapons for this truck would destroy it first.
Been to war and know where it's at.
Build toys not weapons.
Just my $100


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Hummer Almost there*
> 
> I really like the Dark Danish oil!!!
> It has some walnut stain in it and sinks into the grain and darkens it so it really shows up in the oak.
> I got the bumpers on and all the little side panels and gas filler, all I really have left is the back stop lights and the windshield post.
> O! and I still need to build the rack and radiator grill, I made one grill but it just wouldn't bend enough over the hood so will need to make a few things and get the wheels oiled up.
> May look into building some fences for the back of the pickup. [Can't think what you call them???]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used the clear Danish oil on the inside and while I was painting the out side I used the same for the upper part of the inside so it's now two tone on the inside cool!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got the bush guard and back bumpers on, *just love the bush guard*!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The extra wheel I darkened turned out great but the side wall had a white spot don't know if it was a greasy fingerprint or what so sanded it out and put the oil finish on it just to see what the black tread and dark danish oil would look like.
> Here's the wheels before the danish oil, tomorrow I'll know if they're going to work but from what I see so far they're looking great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If all goes well should have it all finished tomorrow.


"Racks" or some folks call 'em "rails" ... Either way.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer Almost there*
> 
> I really like the Dark Danish oil!!!
> It has some walnut stain in it and sinks into the grain and darkens it so it really shows up in the oak.
> I got the bumpers on and all the little side panels and gas filler, all I really have left is the back stop lights and the windshield post.
> O! and I still need to build the rack and radiator grill, I made one grill but it just wouldn't bend enough over the hood so will need to make a few things and get the wheels oiled up.
> May look into building some fences for the back of the pickup. [Can't think what you call them???]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used the clear Danish oil on the inside and while I was painting the out side I used the same for the upper part of the inside so it's now two tone on the inside cool!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got the bush guard and back bumpers on, *just love the bush guard*!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The extra wheel I darkened turned out great but the side wall had a white spot don't know if it was a greasy fingerprint or what so sanded it out and put the oil finish on it just to see what the black tread and dark danish oil would look like.
> Here's the wheels before the danish oil, tomorrow I'll know if they're going to work but from what I see so far they're looking great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If all goes well should have it all finished tomorrow.


Rails that's it, one of them there things but once I get the luggage rack it's done thank you very much.
I thought about a tool box on the back , would be something I haven't seen before but I'm hitting that spot that says it's done and that's all it get's.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer Almost there*
> 
> I really like the Dark Danish oil!!!
> It has some walnut stain in it and sinks into the grain and darkens it so it really shows up in the oak.
> I got the bumpers on and all the little side panels and gas filler, all I really have left is the back stop lights and the windshield post.
> O! and I still need to build the rack and radiator grill, I made one grill but it just wouldn't bend enough over the hood so will need to make a few things and get the wheels oiled up.
> May look into building some fences for the back of the pickup. [Can't think what you call them???]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used the clear Danish oil on the inside and while I was painting the out side I used the same for the upper part of the inside so it's now two tone on the inside cool!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got the bush guard and back bumpers on, *just love the bush guard*!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The extra wheel I darkened turned out great but the side wall had a white spot don't know if it was a greasy fingerprint or what so sanded it out and put the oil finish on it just to see what the black tread and dark danish oil would look like.
> Here's the wheels before the danish oil, tomorrow I'll know if they're going to work but from what I see so far they're looking great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If all goes well should have it all finished tomorrow.


O!! and Joe you wanted a picture of my steed, it's covered in saw dust. 
Need to go blow the dust off it.
Yamaha 1300


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Hummer Almost there*
> 
> I really like the Dark Danish oil!!!
> It has some walnut stain in it and sinks into the grain and darkens it so it really shows up in the oak.
> I got the bumpers on and all the little side panels and gas filler, all I really have left is the back stop lights and the windshield post.
> O! and I still need to build the rack and radiator grill, I made one grill but it just wouldn't bend enough over the hood so will need to make a few things and get the wheels oiled up.
> May look into building some fences for the back of the pickup. [Can't think what you call them???]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used the clear Danish oil on the inside and while I was painting the out side I used the same for the upper part of the inside so it's now two tone on the inside cool!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got the bush guard and back bumpers on, *just love the bush guard*!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The extra wheel I darkened turned out great but the side wall had a white spot don't know if it was a greasy fingerprint or what so sanded it out and put the oil finish on it just to see what the black tread and dark danish oil would look like.
> Here's the wheels before the danish oil, tomorrow I'll know if they're going to work but from what I see so far they're looking great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If all goes well should have it all finished tomorrow.


just 1 more day then you can start on lowboy WOOOOOOOHOOOOOOOOOOOOO YIPEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE

*LMAO*


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer Almost there*
> 
> I really like the Dark Danish oil!!!
> It has some walnut stain in it and sinks into the grain and darkens it so it really shows up in the oak.
> I got the bumpers on and all the little side panels and gas filler, all I really have left is the back stop lights and the windshield post.
> O! and I still need to build the rack and radiator grill, I made one grill but it just wouldn't bend enough over the hood so will need to make a few things and get the wheels oiled up.
> May look into building some fences for the back of the pickup. [Can't think what you call them???]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used the clear Danish oil on the inside and while I was painting the out side I used the same for the upper part of the inside so it's now two tone on the inside cool!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got the bush guard and back bumpers on, *just love the bush guard*!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The extra wheel I darkened turned out great but the side wall had a white spot don't know if it was a greasy fingerprint or what so sanded it out and put the oil finish on it just to see what the black tread and dark danish oil would look like.
> Here's the wheels before the danish oil, tomorrow I'll know if they're going to work but from what I see so far they're looking great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If all goes well should have it all finished tomorrow.


You got that right my man!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
LOL
WOOOOOOOHOOOOOOOOOOOOO YIPEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer Almost there*
> 
> I really like the Dark Danish oil!!!
> It has some walnut stain in it and sinks into the grain and darkens it so it really shows up in the oak.
> I got the bumpers on and all the little side panels and gas filler, all I really have left is the back stop lights and the windshield post.
> O! and I still need to build the rack and radiator grill, I made one grill but it just wouldn't bend enough over the hood so will need to make a few things and get the wheels oiled up.
> May look into building some fences for the back of the pickup. [Can't think what you call them???]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used the clear Danish oil on the inside and while I was painting the out side I used the same for the upper part of the inside so it's now two tone on the inside cool!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got the bush guard and back bumpers on, *just love the bush guard*!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The extra wheel I darkened turned out great but the side wall had a white spot don't know if it was a greasy fingerprint or what so sanded it out and put the oil finish on it just to see what the black tread and dark danish oil would look like.
> Here's the wheels before the danish oil, tomorrow I'll know if they're going to work but from what I see so far they're looking great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If all goes well should have it all finished tomorrow.


Gr8Hunter 
I really built this project for the wheels, just wanted to build the mudder tires.
Now the trailer I have *no interest in making all those wheels*, but I will.
It's the shape on the sides of the trailer that have got my interest, don't ask me why. LOL


----------



## htl

*Hummer Ebonized tires #11*

The tires turned out great and thanks all for heading me in the right direction there.

I stained my first trucks wheels with jacobean stain and wasn't dark enough so used a magic marker on it and it made them black but this ebonizing treatment gets them just right and there was no need to sand them.

Here's the ebonizing treatment on the tires.
I let the water treatment dry 24 hours it's 95° in the shop so dried up well.









Then put danish oil on them.
Picture with flash.








With out flash.









The second the oil hit the wood it went black or close enough.
Using a flash you can see the brown but without the flash they look almost black which is just right.
It's sad how the camera really doesn't show the true beauty of the wood.

You all have show the ebonized tires but the true beauty just doesn't get translated with a camera.



















Here's the one that got the side walls sanded just to get an idea how that looks.
Will be sanding the oil off and ebonizing the side walls so it can be used as a spare tire.

You may have noticed that the center tread looks different well it's cherry, just happened to have some scraps of cherry around when I was making the wheels and used it instead of making some thinner oak, if I knew what I do now I would have used oak but it just adds a little different look so not hurting anything.


















That affliction is hitting me again, should add a few more things but my mind has said it's enough.
So here's a teaser.









Just a note for those liking the way the dark Danish oil looks on the Hummer body but wanting to use a traditional finish test out some minwax provincial stain adds the dark to the grain without darkening the whole thing.
You could also add just a touch more walnut stain the the provincial to get even darker but some testing would be needed.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Hummer Ebonized tires #11*
> 
> The tires turned out great and thanks all for heading me in the right direction there.
> 
> I stained my first trucks wheels with jacobean stain and wasn't dark enough so used a magic marker on it and it made them black but this ebonizing treatment gets them just right and there was no need to sand them.
> 
> Here's the ebonizing treatment on the tires.
> I let the water treatment dry 24 hours it's 95° in the shop so dried up well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then put danish oil on them.
> Picture with flash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With out flash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The second the oil hit the wood it went black or close enough.
> Using a flash you can see the brown but without the flash they look almost black which is just right.
> It's sad how the camera really doesn't show the true beauty of the wood.
> 
> You all have show the ebonized tires but the true beauty just doesn't get translated with a camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the one that got the side walls sanded just to get an idea how that looks.
> Will be sanding the oil off and ebonizing the side walls so it can be used as a spare tire.
> 
> You may have noticed that the center tread looks different well it's cherry, just happened to have some scraps of cherry around when I was making the wheels and used it instead of making some thinner oak, if I knew what I do now I would have used oak but it just adds a little different look so not hurting anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That affliction is hitting me again, should add a few more things but my mind has said it's enough.
> So here's a teaser.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a note for those liking the way the dark Danish oil looks on the Hummer body but wanting to use a traditional finish test out some minwax provincial stain adds the dark to the grain without darkening the whole thing.
> You could also add just a touch more walnut stain the the provincial to get even darker but some testing would be needed.


Bruce, What a difference a little colour makes or is that lack of colour were black is concerned…
Sir, with the black tyres you have added a superb level of beautiful detail….love it.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer Ebonized tires #11*
> 
> The tires turned out great and thanks all for heading me in the right direction there.
> 
> I stained my first trucks wheels with jacobean stain and wasn't dark enough so used a magic marker on it and it made them black but this ebonizing treatment gets them just right and there was no need to sand them.
> 
> Here's the ebonizing treatment on the tires.
> I let the water treatment dry 24 hours it's 95° in the shop so dried up well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then put danish oil on them.
> Picture with flash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With out flash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The second the oil hit the wood it went black or close enough.
> Using a flash you can see the brown but without the flash they look almost black which is just right.
> It's sad how the camera really doesn't show the true beauty of the wood.
> 
> You all have show the ebonized tires but the true beauty just doesn't get translated with a camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the one that got the side walls sanded just to get an idea how that looks.
> Will be sanding the oil off and ebonizing the side walls so it can be used as a spare tire.
> 
> You may have noticed that the center tread looks different well it's cherry, just happened to have some scraps of cherry around when I was making the wheels and used it instead of making some thinner oak, if I knew what I do now I would have used oak but it just adds a little different look so not hurting anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That affliction is hitting me again, should add a few more things but my mind has said it's enough.
> So here's a teaser.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a note for those liking the way the dark Danish oil looks on the Hummer body but wanting to use a traditional finish test out some minwax provincial stain adds the dark to the grain without darkening the whole thing.
> You could also add just a touch more walnut stain the the provincial to get even darker but some testing would be needed.


Crowie you're absolutely right with those big side walls it needs blacked out the spare tire really shows the difference.
If I would have rounded the side walls it might have been all right but I haven't got around to experimenting with that yet maybe next time.

Thanks guys for talking me into it I really did everything I could think of to *Not black these tires*, just didn't want to go that far off track.
What make my own stain, how far out in left field is that!

In the back of my mind I was thinking *do all that work and then bugger them up*, go the safe route and just stain them.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Hummer Ebonized tires #11*
> 
> The tires turned out great and thanks all for heading me in the right direction there.
> 
> I stained my first trucks wheels with jacobean stain and wasn't dark enough so used a magic marker on it and it made them black but this ebonizing treatment gets them just right and there was no need to sand them.
> 
> Here's the ebonizing treatment on the tires.
> I let the water treatment dry 24 hours it's 95° in the shop so dried up well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then put danish oil on them.
> Picture with flash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With out flash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The second the oil hit the wood it went black or close enough.
> Using a flash you can see the brown but without the flash they look almost black which is just right.
> It's sad how the camera really doesn't show the true beauty of the wood.
> 
> You all have show the ebonized tires but the true beauty just doesn't get translated with a camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the one that got the side walls sanded just to get an idea how that looks.
> Will be sanding the oil off and ebonizing the side walls so it can be used as a spare tire.
> 
> You may have noticed that the center tread looks different well it's cherry, just happened to have some scraps of cherry around when I was making the wheels and used it instead of making some thinner oak, if I knew what I do now I would have used oak but it just adds a little different look so not hurting anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That affliction is hitting me again, should add a few more things but my mind has said it's enough.
> So here's a teaser.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a note for those liking the way the dark Danish oil looks on the Hummer body but wanting to use a traditional finish test out some minwax provincial stain adds the dark to the grain without darkening the whole thing.
> You could also add just a touch more walnut stain the the provincial to get even darker but some testing would be needed.


Hummer looks great.

You are now also addicted to ebonizing?


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Hummer Ebonized tires #11*
> 
> The tires turned out great and thanks all for heading me in the right direction there.
> 
> I stained my first trucks wheels with jacobean stain and wasn't dark enough so used a magic marker on it and it made them black but this ebonizing treatment gets them just right and there was no need to sand them.
> 
> Here's the ebonizing treatment on the tires.
> I let the water treatment dry 24 hours it's 95° in the shop so dried up well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then put danish oil on them.
> Picture with flash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With out flash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The second the oil hit the wood it went black or close enough.
> Using a flash you can see the brown but without the flash they look almost black which is just right.
> It's sad how the camera really doesn't show the true beauty of the wood.
> 
> You all have show the ebonized tires but the true beauty just doesn't get translated with a camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the one that got the side walls sanded just to get an idea how that looks.
> Will be sanding the oil off and ebonizing the side walls so it can be used as a spare tire.
> 
> You may have noticed that the center tread looks different well it's cherry, just happened to have some scraps of cherry around when I was making the wheels and used it instead of making some thinner oak, if I knew what I do now I would have used oak but it just adds a little different look so not hurting anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That affliction is hitting me again, should add a few more things but my mind has said it's enough.
> So here's a teaser.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a note for those liking the way the dark Danish oil looks on the Hummer body but wanting to use a traditional finish test out some minwax provincial stain adds the dark to the grain without darkening the whole thing.
> You could also add just a touch more walnut stain the the provincial to get even darker but some testing would be needed.


Nice look, especially with the customisations, but I think you should bite the bullet and garnish it a bit more.

*BTW*. Is that an Aussie SS? The label is down under!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer Ebonized tires #11*
> 
> The tires turned out great and thanks all for heading me in the right direction there.
> 
> I stained my first trucks wheels with jacobean stain and wasn't dark enough so used a magic marker on it and it made them black but this ebonizing treatment gets them just right and there was no need to sand them.
> 
> Here's the ebonizing treatment on the tires.
> I let the water treatment dry 24 hours it's 95° in the shop so dried up well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then put danish oil on them.
> Picture with flash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With out flash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The second the oil hit the wood it went black or close enough.
> Using a flash you can see the brown but without the flash they look almost black which is just right.
> It's sad how the camera really doesn't show the true beauty of the wood.
> 
> You all have show the ebonized tires but the true beauty just doesn't get translated with a camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the one that got the side walls sanded just to get an idea how that looks.
> Will be sanding the oil off and ebonizing the side walls so it can be used as a spare tire.
> 
> You may have noticed that the center tread looks different well it's cherry, just happened to have some scraps of cherry around when I was making the wheels and used it instead of making some thinner oak, if I knew what I do now I would have used oak but it just adds a little different look so not hurting anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That affliction is hitting me again, should add a few more things but my mind has said it's enough.
> So here's a teaser.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a note for those liking the way the dark Danish oil looks on the Hummer body but wanting to use a traditional finish test out some minwax provincial stain adds the dark to the grain without darkening the whole thing.
> You could also add just a touch more walnut stain the the provincial to get even darker but some testing would be needed.


Dutchy I'm afraid you maybe right.

Ducky you're all so right but it's just so hard to keep going when the mind says it's a wrap.

*



? Is that an Aussie SS? The label is down under!

Click to expand...

?*

LOL I couldn't figure where you were going with this then saw the speed dial and figured it out.
That is the speed dial, you turn it to set the saw for different uses like the table saw or different size drill bits,
Will be really handy once I start using the lathe..


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Hummer Ebonized tires #11*
> 
> The tires turned out great and thanks all for heading me in the right direction there.
> 
> I stained my first trucks wheels with jacobean stain and wasn't dark enough so used a magic marker on it and it made them black but this ebonizing treatment gets them just right and there was no need to sand them.
> 
> Here's the ebonizing treatment on the tires.
> I let the water treatment dry 24 hours it's 95° in the shop so dried up well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then put danish oil on them.
> Picture with flash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With out flash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The second the oil hit the wood it went black or close enough.
> Using a flash you can see the brown but without the flash they look almost black which is just right.
> It's sad how the camera really doesn't show the true beauty of the wood.
> 
> You all have show the ebonized tires but the true beauty just doesn't get translated with a camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the one that got the side walls sanded just to get an idea how that looks.
> Will be sanding the oil off and ebonizing the side walls so it can be used as a spare tire.
> 
> You may have noticed that the center tread looks different well it's cherry, just happened to have some scraps of cherry around when I was making the wheels and used it instead of making some thinner oak, if I knew what I do now I would have used oak but it just adds a little different look so not hurting anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That affliction is hitting me again, should add a few more things but my mind has said it's enough.
> So here's a teaser.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a note for those liking the way the dark Danish oil looks on the Hummer body but wanting to use a traditional finish test out some minwax provincial stain adds the dark to the grain without darkening the whole thing.
> You could also add just a touch more walnut stain the the provincial to get even darker but some testing would be needed.


Sorry #4, I do appreciate your views, however, if you don't do in now it's sure as hell you won't do it in the future.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Hummer Ebonized tires #11*
> 
> The tires turned out great and thanks all for heading me in the right direction there.
> 
> I stained my first trucks wheels with jacobean stain and wasn't dark enough so used a magic marker on it and it made them black but this ebonizing treatment gets them just right and there was no need to sand them.
> 
> Here's the ebonizing treatment on the tires.
> I let the water treatment dry 24 hours it's 95° in the shop so dried up well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then put danish oil on them.
> Picture with flash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With out flash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The second the oil hit the wood it went black or close enough.
> Using a flash you can see the brown but without the flash they look almost black which is just right.
> It's sad how the camera really doesn't show the true beauty of the wood.
> 
> You all have show the ebonized tires but the true beauty just doesn't get translated with a camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the one that got the side walls sanded just to get an idea how that looks.
> Will be sanding the oil off and ebonizing the side walls so it can be used as a spare tire.
> 
> You may have noticed that the center tread looks different well it's cherry, just happened to have some scraps of cherry around when I was making the wheels and used it instead of making some thinner oak, if I knew what I do now I would have used oak but it just adds a little different look so not hurting anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That affliction is hitting me again, should add a few more things but my mind has said it's enough.
> So here's a teaser.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a note for those liking the way the dark Danish oil looks on the Hummer body but wanting to use a traditional finish test out some minwax provincial stain adds the dark to the grain without darkening the whole thing.
> You could also add just a touch more walnut stain the the provincial to get even darker but some testing would be needed.


simply love the wheel chocks in last picture LMAO

GREAT JOB BUDDY


----------



## htl

*Hummer adding the last few things #12*

Ducky talked me into adding a few more things to the build so here they are then that's it. lol
Added a luggage rack but had to shorten up the rack being it's a pickup truck.
So here's a luggage rack quick how to.

I printed out the plans for it then cut it up to fit the top of the truck then cut parts to fit that plan.
I hot glued the three braces to the plans so they wouldn't move then I had something to go by to keep everything lined up.




































I then banded it, I guess I really should have took more time with it but this will get er done.

















Then sanding and buffing and onto the roof it went.
I clamped a board down to keep it lined up till the glue dried.


















Next I built some over head lights.
I really need to find some store bought ones but just for a few lights I'm not paying $9 shipping.
So notice on some real Hummers they use the square lights so hey let's give that a try.

I took a page out of Dutchy's play book and made them.




































Here's the project post.
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/256138


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Hummer adding the last few things #12*
> 
> Ducky talked me into adding a few more things to the build so here they are then that's it. lol
> Added a luggage rack but had to shorten up the rack being it's a pickup truck.
> So here's a luggage rack quick how to.
> 
> I printed out the plans for it then cut it up to fit the top of the truck then cut parts to fit that plan.
> I hot glued the three braces to the plans so they wouldn't move then I had something to go by to keep everything lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then banded it, I guess I really should have took more time with it but this will get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sanding and buffing and onto the roof it went.
> I clamped a board down to keep it lined up till the glue dried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I built some over head lights.
> I really need to find some store bought ones but just for a few lights I'm not paying $9 shipping.
> So notice on some real Hummers they use the square lights so hey let's give that a try.
> 
> I took a page out of Dutchy's play book and made them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the project post.
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/256138


looks like a skid LMAO


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Hummer adding the last few things #12*
> 
> Ducky talked me into adding a few more things to the build so here they are then that's it. lol
> Added a luggage rack but had to shorten up the rack being it's a pickup truck.
> So here's a luggage rack quick how to.
> 
> I printed out the plans for it then cut it up to fit the top of the truck then cut parts to fit that plan.
> I hot glued the three braces to the plans so they wouldn't move then I had something to go by to keep everything lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then banded it, I guess I really should have took more time with it but this will get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sanding and buffing and onto the roof it went.
> I clamped a board down to keep it lined up till the glue dried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I built some over head lights.
> I really need to find some store bought ones but just for a few lights I'm not paying $9 shipping.
> So notice on some real Hummers they use the square lights so hey let's give that a try.
> 
> I took a page out of Dutchy's play book and made them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the project post.
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/256138


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer adding the last few things #12*
> 
> Ducky talked me into adding a few more things to the build so here they are then that's it. lol
> Added a luggage rack but had to shorten up the rack being it's a pickup truck.
> So here's a luggage rack quick how to.
> 
> I printed out the plans for it then cut it up to fit the top of the truck then cut parts to fit that plan.
> I hot glued the three braces to the plans so they wouldn't move then I had something to go by to keep everything lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then banded it, I guess I really should have took more time with it but this will get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sanding and buffing and onto the roof it went.
> I clamped a board down to keep it lined up till the glue dried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I built some over head lights.
> I really need to find some store bought ones but just for a few lights I'm not paying $9 shipping.
> So notice on some real Hummers they use the square lights so hey let's give that a try.
> 
> I took a page out of Dutchy's play book and made them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the project post.
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/256138


All I can say is ouch!!!


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Hummer adding the last few things #12*
> 
> Ducky talked me into adding a few more things to the build so here they are then that's it. lol
> Added a luggage rack but had to shorten up the rack being it's a pickup truck.
> So here's a luggage rack quick how to.
> 
> I printed out the plans for it then cut it up to fit the top of the truck then cut parts to fit that plan.
> I hot glued the three braces to the plans so they wouldn't move then I had something to go by to keep everything lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then banded it, I guess I really should have took more time with it but this will get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sanding and buffing and onto the roof it went.
> I clamped a board down to keep it lined up till the glue dried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I built some over head lights.
> I really need to find some store bought ones but just for a few lights I'm not paying $9 shipping.
> So notice on some real Hummers they use the square lights so hey let's give that a try.
> 
> I took a page out of Dutchy's play book and made them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Here's the project post.
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/256138


Now that just adds an extra finishing touch - well done Bruce…


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## BruceBarber

htl said:


> *Hummer adding the last few things #12*
> 
> Ducky talked me into adding a few more things to the build so here they are then that's it. lol
> Added a luggage rack but had to shorten up the rack being it's a pickup truck.
> So here's a luggage rack quick how to.
> 
> I printed out the plans for it then cut it up to fit the top of the truck then cut parts to fit that plan.
> I hot glued the three braces to the plans so they wouldn't move then I had something to go by to keep everything lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then banded it, I guess I really should have took more time with it but this will get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sanding and buffing and onto the roof it went.
> I clamped a board down to keep it lined up till the glue dried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I built some over head lights.
> I really need to find some store bought ones but just for a few lights I'm not paying $9 shipping.
> So notice on some real Hummers they use the square lights so hey let's give that a try.
> 
> I took a page out of Dutchy's play book and made them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Here's the project post.
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/256138


Hi Bruce ,,, the Hummer looks GREAT ,, i have to get my ass going and do them Hummer to ,,, 
the front Bar Grill how did you round it


> ? and the wheels you did do you have the plans for the tires , i like the way you did your ,, again great job ,,, what is your next project


?


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer adding the last few things #12*
> 
> Ducky talked me into adding a few more things to the build so here they are then that's it. lol
> Added a luggage rack but had to shorten up the rack being it's a pickup truck.
> So here's a luggage rack quick how to.
> 
> I printed out the plans for it then cut it up to fit the top of the truck then cut parts to fit that plan.
> I hot glued the three braces to the plans so they wouldn't move then I had something to go by to keep everything lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then banded it, I guess I really should have took more time with it but this will get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sanding and buffing and onto the roof it went.
> I clamped a board down to keep it lined up till the glue dried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I built some over head lights.
> I really need to find some store bought ones but just for a few lights I'm not paying $9 shipping.
> So notice on some real Hummers they use the square lights so hey let's give that a try.
> 
> I took a page out of Dutchy's play book and made them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Here's the project post.
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/256138


Bruce the bush guard was printed out then glued to some 3/8??? lumber then scroll sawed out sanded then routed with a 1/8 bit then sand sand sand.

I've got some old blogs that show the tires being made and Dutchy has some great How2 blogs on tires.

I thought about the lowboy trailer bit it's so hot in the shop may build a quicky car.
1935 Ford.
It's funny never thought I would get into building the cars but really are fun to build and love having them around when they're done.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Hummer adding the last few things #12*
> 
> Ducky talked me into adding a few more things to the build so here they are then that's it. lol
> Added a luggage rack but had to shorten up the rack being it's a pickup truck.
> So here's a luggage rack quick how to.
> 
> I printed out the plans for it then cut it up to fit the top of the truck then cut parts to fit that plan.
> I hot glued the three braces to the plans so they wouldn't move then I had something to go by to keep everything lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then banded it, I guess I really should have took more time with it but this will get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sanding and buffing and onto the roof it went.
> I clamped a board down to keep it lined up till the glue dried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I built some over head lights.
> I really need to find some store bought ones but just for a few lights I'm not paying $9 shipping.
> So notice on some real Hummers they use the square lights so hey let's give that a try.
> 
> I took a page out of Dutchy's play book and made them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the project post.
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/256138





> looks like a skid LMAO
> 
> - GR8HUNTER


Obviously made by someone who didn't see your train blogs… It's obviously a backup side for your fruit car in case the longhorn decide to turn vegetarian and get a penchant for sweetmeats.

As I moved down the pictures, I thought you merely used the hummer as a delivery truck for the box sides to the railway yard.

Further down, when I saw that it was actually glued to the roof I suddenly realised it was a hailstone catcher to protect the delicate fabric of the seat cushions. Lucky there's no comfort cushions in the back or they'd get hammered by the hail.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer adding the last few things #12*
> 
> Ducky talked me into adding a few more things to the build so here they are then that's it. lol
> Added a luggage rack but had to shorten up the rack being it's a pickup truck.
> So here's a luggage rack quick how to.
> 
> I printed out the plans for it then cut it up to fit the top of the truck then cut parts to fit that plan.
> I hot glued the three braces to the plans so they wouldn't move then I had something to go by to keep everything lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then banded it, I guess I really should have took more time with it but this will get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sanding and buffing and onto the roof it went.
> I clamped a board down to keep it lined up till the glue dried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I built some over head lights.
> I really need to find some store bought ones but just for a few lights I'm not paying $9 shipping.
> So notice on some real Hummers they use the square lights so hey let's give that a try.
> 
> I took a page out of Dutchy's play book and made them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the project post.
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/256138


Now listen here Ducky I didn't want to build the thing in the first place so why are you giving me grief over it.
This ain't no bicycle rack this is for carrying real manly stuff like like manly stuff!!!! LOL

All I can say if you can't say something nice why say anything!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer adding the last few things #12*
> 
> Ducky talked me into adding a few more things to the build so here they are then that's it. lol
> Added a luggage rack but had to shorten up the rack being it's a pickup truck.
> So here's a luggage rack quick how to.
> 
> I printed out the plans for it then cut it up to fit the top of the truck then cut parts to fit that plan.
> I hot glued the three braces to the plans so they wouldn't move then I had something to go by to keep everything lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then banded it, I guess I really should have took more time with it but this will get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sanding and buffing and onto the roof it went.
> I clamped a board down to keep it lined up till the glue dried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I built some over head lights.
> I really need to find some store bought ones but just for a few lights I'm not paying $9 shipping.
> So notice on some real Hummers they use the square lights so hey let's give that a try.
> 
> I took a page out of Dutchy's play book and made them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the project post.
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/256138


I just noticed I didn't post many of the finished truck so there you are.


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## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Hummer adding the last few things #12*
> 
> Ducky talked me into adding a few more things to the build so here they are then that's it. lol
> Added a luggage rack but had to shorten up the rack being it's a pickup truck.
> So here's a luggage rack quick how to.
> 
> I printed out the plans for it then cut it up to fit the top of the truck then cut parts to fit that plan.
> I hot glued the three braces to the plans so they wouldn't move then I had something to go by to keep everything lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then banded it, I guess I really should have took more time with it but this will get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sanding and buffing and onto the roof it went.
> I clamped a board down to keep it lined up till the glue dried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I built some over head lights.
> I really need to find some store bought ones but just for a few lights I'm not paying $9 shipping.
> So notice on some real Hummers they use the square lights so hey let's give that a try.
> 
> I took a page out of Dutchy's play book and made them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the project post.
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/256138


If everybody's wondering what you plan to carry on the roof rack, make another (matching) tire & rim and just set it up there. I see plenty of "off roaders" who just throw their spare tire up on the rack.
.
.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer adding the last few things #12*
> 
> Ducky talked me into adding a few more things to the build so here they are then that's it. lol
> Added a luggage rack but had to shorten up the rack being it's a pickup truck.
> So here's a luggage rack quick how to.
> 
> I printed out the plans for it then cut it up to fit the top of the truck then cut parts to fit that plan.
> I hot glued the three braces to the plans so they wouldn't move then I had something to go by to keep everything lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then banded it, I guess I really should have took more time with it but this will get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sanding and buffing and onto the roof it went.
> I clamped a board down to keep it lined up till the glue dried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I built some over head lights.
> I really need to find some store bought ones but just for a few lights I'm not paying $9 shipping.
> So notice on some real Hummers they use the square lights so hey let's give that a try.
> 
> I took a page out of Dutchy's play book and made them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the project post.
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/256138


Joe that's what I plan to do with my extra tire but need to sand off the side walls and blacken it again.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Hummer adding the last few things #12*
> 
> Ducky talked me into adding a few more things to the build so here they are then that's it. lol
> Added a luggage rack but had to shorten up the rack being it's a pickup truck.
> So here's a luggage rack quick how to.
> 
> I printed out the plans for it then cut it up to fit the top of the truck then cut parts to fit that plan.
> I hot glued the three braces to the plans so they wouldn't move then I had something to go by to keep everything lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then banded it, I guess I really should have took more time with it but this will get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sanding and buffing and onto the roof it went.
> I clamped a board down to keep it lined up till the glue dried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I built some over head lights.
> I really need to find some store bought ones but just for a few lights I'm not paying $9 shipping.
> So notice on some real Hummers they use the square lights so hey let's give that a try.
> 
> I took a page out of Dutchy's play book and made them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the project post.
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/256138


yeah ducky what he said !!!!!!!!! ........ and Bruce defiantly throw a tire up there that would set it off very nicely ...... other then that IT is a GREAT LOOKING GAS HOG ….... LMAO 
another fine job …...... oh make the 36 ford I like to see how to make them side vents LOL


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer adding the last few things #12*
> 
> Ducky talked me into adding a few more things to the build so here they are then that's it. lol
> Added a luggage rack but had to shorten up the rack being it's a pickup truck.
> So here's a luggage rack quick how to.
> 
> I printed out the plans for it then cut it up to fit the top of the truck then cut parts to fit that plan.
> I hot glued the three braces to the plans so they wouldn't move then I had something to go by to keep everything lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then banded it, I guess I really should have took more time with it but this will get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sanding and buffing and onto the roof it went.
> I clamped a board down to keep it lined up till the glue dried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I built some over head lights.
> I really need to find some store bought ones but just for a few lights I'm not paying $9 shipping.
> So notice on some real Hummers they use the square lights so hey let's give that a try.
> 
> I took a page out of Dutchy's play book and made them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the project post.
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/256138


GREAT LOOKING GAS HOG

I was reading about the Hummer the last year they made them, they came up with this really great new motor helped it get much better gas milage, would you believe 10 miles to the gal.
Now that's really sad, course we need to remember this thing is built like a tank so HEAVY DUTY is the word with the main word being *heavy*.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer adding the last few things #12*
> 
> Ducky talked me into adding a few more things to the build so here they are then that's it. lol
> Added a luggage rack but had to shorten up the rack being it's a pickup truck.
> So here's a luggage rack quick how to.
> 
> I printed out the plans for it then cut it up to fit the top of the truck then cut parts to fit that plan.
> I hot glued the three braces to the plans so they wouldn't move then I had something to go by to keep everything lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then banded it, I guess I really should have took more time with it but this will get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sanding and buffing and onto the roof it went.
> I clamped a board down to keep it lined up till the glue dried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I built some over head lights.
> I really need to find some store bought ones but just for a few lights I'm not paying $9 shipping.
> So notice on some real Hummers they use the square lights so hey let's give that a try.
> 
> I took a page out of Dutchy's play book and made them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the project post.
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/256138


O Great Hunter why are you wanting me to be the guinea pig on this project. lol
Now there you go putting the pressure on me.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Hummer adding the last few things #12*
> 
> Ducky talked me into adding a few more things to the build so here they are then that's it. lol
> Added a luggage rack but had to shorten up the rack being it's a pickup truck.
> So here's a luggage rack quick how to.
> 
> I printed out the plans for it then cut it up to fit the top of the truck then cut parts to fit that plan.
> I hot glued the three braces to the plans so they wouldn't move then I had something to go by to keep everything lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then banded it, I guess I really should have took more time with it but this will get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sanding and buffing and onto the roof it went.
> I clamped a board down to keep it lined up till the glue dried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I built some over head lights.
> I really need to find some store bought ones but just for a few lights I'm not paying $9 shipping.
> So notice on some real Hummers they use the square lights so hey let's give that a try.
> 
> I took a page out of Dutchy's play book and made them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the project post.
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/256138


was curious on just how to make them vents …did you see them on the 36 ford …...... I probably would run thru table saw then glue top on then put half wooden dowels on it


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer adding the last few things #12*
> 
> Ducky talked me into adding a few more things to the build so here they are then that's it. lol
> Added a luggage rack but had to shorten up the rack being it's a pickup truck.
> So here's a luggage rack quick how to.
> 
> I printed out the plans for it then cut it up to fit the top of the truck then cut parts to fit that plan.
> I hot glued the three braces to the plans so they wouldn't move then I had something to go by to keep everything lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then banded it, I guess I really should have took more time with it but this will get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sanding and buffing and onto the roof it went.
> I clamped a board down to keep it lined up till the glue dried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I built some over head lights.
> I really need to find some store bought ones but just for a few lights I'm not paying $9 shipping.
> So notice on some real Hummers they use the square lights so hey let's give that a try.
> 
> I took a page out of Dutchy's play book and made them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the project post.
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/256138


Sorry Hunter I really haven't got around to figuring on that yet but stay tuned to same batty channel for further misadventures. LOL


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hummer adding the last few things #12*
> 
> Ducky talked me into adding a few more things to the build so here they are then that's it. lol
> Added a luggage rack but had to shorten up the rack being it's a pickup truck.
> So here's a luggage rack quick how to.
> 
> I printed out the plans for it then cut it up to fit the top of the truck then cut parts to fit that plan.
> I hot glued the three braces to the plans so they wouldn't move then I had something to go by to keep everything lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then banded it, I guess I really should have took more time with it but this will get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sanding and buffing and onto the roof it went.
> I clamped a board down to keep it lined up till the glue dried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I built some over head lights.
> I really need to find some store bought ones but just for a few lights I'm not paying $9 shipping.
> So notice on some real Hummers they use the square lights so hey let's give that a try.
> 
> I took a page out of Dutchy's play book and made them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the project post.
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/256138


Well we had to make room for the Hummer on the shelves so had to do some moving and the Hummer was up to the task. LOL

First we needed to move a pool table.
Getting it up on the rack was a gut buster.


















Then we moved a bunch a furniture and stuff out of the shop.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Hummer adding the last few things #12*
> 
> Ducky talked me into adding a few more things to the build so here they are then that's it. lol
> Added a luggage rack but had to shorten up the rack being it's a pickup truck.
> So here's a luggage rack quick how to.
> 
> I printed out the plans for it then cut it up to fit the top of the truck then cut parts to fit that plan.
> I hot glued the three braces to the plans so they wouldn't move then I had something to go by to keep everything lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then banded it, I guess I really should have took more time with it but this will get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sanding and buffing and onto the roof it went.
> I clamped a board down to keep it lined up till the glue dried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I built some over head lights.
> I really need to find some store bought ones but just for a few lights I'm not paying $9 shipping.
> So notice on some real Hummers they use the square lights so hey let's give that a try.
> 
> I took a page out of Dutchy's play book and made them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the project post.
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/256138


Now that's brought a big smile to my face…love it Bruce…Furniture Removalist Hummer


----------



## htl

*Starting on a 1935 Ford #1*










I've hardly got the thing started and wish I had done it way different.

Starting to run out of nice wood and don't want to put any $$$ into this car so thought I would try one out of some pine shelving and 2×4s.
If worst comes to worst I'll paint it never ever done one of those before so why not. lol
I know ducky I got the oxygen waiting on you over in the corner.

One thing I'm already noticing is it's going to take some doing to keep the dings out of this soft wood.
May need to use a towel under at all times for that.

Is it to late to start over and use some better wood?

Just some quick pictures of getting started and seeing which way it wants to go.




























*Did you happen to notice my big mistake yet?*
Hint It's written right on the side of the part.


















*Ok I got it fixed now.*




































Ok!!!
What i did wrong was get in a hurry and cut out the sides and glued them up *BUT *I forgot to saw the sides down to 3/8" so when I went to put it on the frame it was like 3/4 to fat.
So had to take it to the table saw and resaw the sides while they were all glues up.
But hey now I got a set of 1/4" sides if I want to build another one.

I know it ain't much but it's a start.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Starting on a 1935 Ford #1*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've hardly got the thing started and wish I had done it way different.
> 
> Starting to run out of nice wood and don't want to put any $$$ into this car so thought I would try one out of some pine shelving and 2×4s.
> If worst comes to worst I'll paint it never ever done one of those before so why not. lol
> I know ducky I got the oxygen waiting on you over in the corner.
> 
> One thing I'm already noticing is it's going to take some doing to keep the dings out of this soft wood.
> May need to use a towel under at all times for that.
> 
> Is it to late to start over and use some better wood?
> 
> Just some quick pictures of getting started and seeing which way it wants to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Did you happen to notice my big mistake yet?*
> Hint It's written right on the side of the part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ok I got it fixed now.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok!!!
> What i did wrong was get in a hurry and cut out the sides and glued them up *BUT *I forgot to saw the sides down to 3/8" so when I went to put it on the frame it was like 3/4 to fat.
> So had to take it to the table saw and resaw the sides while they were all glues up.
> But hey now I got a set of 1/4" sides if I want to build another one.
> 
> I know it ain't much but it's a start.


G'Day Bruce, The lacquer is hardly dry on the Hummer and this Ford is well on the way…Looks good..

PS - Toymakers don't make mistakes just modifications and embellishments….


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Starting on a 1935 Ford #1*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've hardly got the thing started and wish I had done it way different.
> 
> Starting to run out of nice wood and don't want to put any $$$ into this car so thought I would try one out of some pine shelving and 2×4s.
> If worst comes to worst I'll paint it never ever done one of those before so why not. lol
> I know ducky I got the oxygen waiting on you over in the corner.
> 
> One thing I'm already noticing is it's going to take some doing to keep the dings out of this soft wood.
> May need to use a towel under at all times for that.
> 
> Is it to late to start over and use some better wood?
> 
> Just some quick pictures of getting started and seeing which way it wants to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Did you happen to notice my big mistake yet?*
> Hint It's written right on the side of the part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ok I got it fixed now.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok!!!
> What i did wrong was get in a hurry and cut out the sides and glued them up *BUT *I forgot to saw the sides down to 3/8" so when I went to put it on the frame it was like 3/4 to fat.
> So had to take it to the table saw and resaw the sides while they were all glues up.
> But hey now I got a set of 1/4" sides if I want to build another one.
> 
> I know it ain't much but it's a start.


Ya! That's it I'm making two of them. 
NOT!


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Starting on a 1935 Ford #1*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've hardly got the thing started and wish I had done it way different.
> 
> Starting to run out of nice wood and don't want to put any $$$ into this car so thought I would try one out of some pine shelving and 2×4s.
> If worst comes to worst I'll paint it never ever done one of those before so why not. lol
> I know ducky I got the oxygen waiting on you over in the corner.
> 
> One thing I'm already noticing is it's going to take some doing to keep the dings out of this soft wood.
> May need to use a towel under at all times for that.
> 
> Is it to late to start over and use some better wood?
> 
> Just some quick pictures of getting started and seeing which way it wants to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Did you happen to notice my big mistake yet?*
> Hint It's written right on the side of the part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ok I got it fixed now.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok!!!
> What i did wrong was get in a hurry and cut out the sides and glued them up *BUT *I forgot to saw the sides down to 3/8" so when I went to put it on the frame it was like 3/4 to fat.
> So had to take it to the table saw and resaw the sides while they were all glues up.
> But hey now I got a set of 1/4" sides if I want to build another one.
> 
> I know it ain't much but it's a start.


hey buddy …...... just call it a pattern …........ I just cant believe how fast you are…....... LMAO


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Starting on a 1935 Ford #1*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've hardly got the thing started and wish I had done it way different.
> 
> Starting to run out of nice wood and don't want to put any $$$ into this car so thought I would try one out of some pine shelving and 2×4s.
> If worst comes to worst I'll paint it never ever done one of those before so why not. lol
> I know ducky I got the oxygen waiting on you over in the corner.
> 
> One thing I'm already noticing is it's going to take some doing to keep the dings out of this soft wood.
> May need to use a towel under at all times for that.
> 
> Is it to late to start over and use some better wood?
> 
> Just some quick pictures of getting started and seeing which way it wants to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Did you happen to notice my big mistake yet?*
> Hint It's written right on the side of the part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ok I got it fixed now.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok!!!
> What i did wrong was get in a hurry and cut out the sides and glued them up *BUT *I forgot to saw the sides down to 3/8" so when I went to put it on the frame it was like 3/4 to fat.
> So had to take it to the table saw and resaw the sides while they were all glues up.
> But hey now I got a set of 1/4" sides if I want to build another one.
> 
> I know it ain't much but it's a start.


A drawing template, building blogs, pictures and more. ALL FOR FREE. Thanks.


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Starting on a 1935 Ford #1*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've hardly got the thing started and wish I had done it way different.
> 
> Starting to run out of nice wood and don't want to put any $$$ into this car so thought I would try one out of some pine shelving and 2×4s.
> If worst comes to worst I'll paint it never ever done one of those before so why not. lol
> I know ducky I got the oxygen waiting on you over in the corner.
> 
> One thing I'm already noticing is it's going to take some doing to keep the dings out of this soft wood.
> May need to use a towel under at all times for that.
> 
> Is it to late to start over and use some better wood?
> 
> Just some quick pictures of getting started and seeing which way it wants to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Did you happen to notice my big mistake yet?*
> Hint It's written right on the side of the part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ok I got it fixed now.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok!!!
> What i did wrong was get in a hurry and cut out the sides and glued them up *BUT *I forgot to saw the sides down to 3/8" so when I went to put it on the frame it was like 3/4 to fat.
> So had to take it to the table saw and resaw the sides while they were all glues up.
> But hey now I got a set of 1/4" sides if I want to build another one.
> 
> I know it ain't much but it's a start.


Pine, oak, bubinga…dont matter, it's just a Ford anyway !  .


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Starting on a 1935 Ford #1*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've hardly got the thing started and wish I had done it way different.
> 
> Starting to run out of nice wood and don't want to put any $$$ into this car so thought I would try one out of some pine shelving and 2×4s.
> If worst comes to worst I'll paint it never ever done one of those before so why not. lol
> I know ducky I got the oxygen waiting on you over in the corner.
> 
> One thing I'm already noticing is it's going to take some doing to keep the dings out of this soft wood.
> May need to use a towel under at all times for that.
> 
> Is it to late to start over and use some better wood?
> 
> Just some quick pictures of getting started and seeing which way it wants to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Did you happen to notice my big mistake yet?*
> Hint It's written right on the side of the part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ok I got it fixed now.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok!!!
> What i did wrong was get in a hurry and cut out the sides and glued them up *BUT *I forgot to saw the sides down to 3/8" so when I went to put it on the frame it was like 3/4 to fat.
> So had to take it to the table saw and resaw the sides while they were all glues up.
> But hey now I got a set of 1/4" sides if I want to build another one.
> 
> I know it ain't much but it's a start.


hey joe don't forget 
First
On
Race
Day
LMAO


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Starting on a 1935 Ford #1*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've hardly got the thing started and wish I had done it way different.
> 
> Starting to run out of nice wood and don't want to put any $$$ into this car so thought I would try one out of some pine shelving and 2×4s.
> If worst comes to worst I'll paint it never ever done one of those before so why not. lol
> I know ducky I got the oxygen waiting on you over in the corner.
> 
> One thing I'm already noticing is it's going to take some doing to keep the dings out of this soft wood.
> May need to use a towel under at all times for that.
> 
> Is it to late to start over and use some better wood?
> 
> Just some quick pictures of getting started and seeing which way it wants to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Did you happen to notice my big mistake yet?*
> Hint It's written right on the side of the part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ok I got it fixed now.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok!!!
> What i did wrong was get in a hurry and cut out the sides and glued them up *BUT *I forgot to saw the sides down to 3/8" so when I went to put it on the frame it was like 3/4 to fat.
> So had to take it to the table saw and resaw the sides while they were all glues up.
> But hey now I got a set of 1/4" sides if I want to build another one.
> 
> I know it ain't much but it's a start.





> hey joe don t forget
> First
> On
> Race
> Day
> LMAO
> 
> - GR8HUNTER


My friends used to say "Fix Or Repair Daily" LOL


----------



## htl

*1935 Ford #2*

Just sand and sand and get er shaped up.
But first gotta get the inside done and finished cause once the tops on you're not touching it.
So let's build the benches and steering wheel.
































































Now the hood and fenders need placing.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *1935 Ford #2*
> 
> Just sand and sand and get er shaped up.
> But first gotta get the inside done and finished cause once the tops on you're not touching it.
> So let's build the benches and steering wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the hood and fenders need placing.


very nice wheels ….......also nice seats …...... and its a *FORD* so you know it will run very well …..LMAO


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *1935 Ford #2*
> 
> Just sand and sand and get er shaped up.
> But first gotta get the inside done and finished cause once the tops on you're not touching it.
> So let's build the benches and steering wheel.
> 
> 
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> Now the hood and fenders need placing.


Ok, question here… I see where you cut a kerf for the door to separate it from the body at the rear edge of the door. But What about the front edge of the door? No kerf?

Not being "nit-picky" here, just curious, because usually you pay a lot of attention to the details. 
.
.


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## htl

htl said:


> *1935 Ford #2*
> 
> Just sand and sand and get er shaped up.
> But first gotta get the inside done and finished cause once the tops on you're not touching it.
> So let's build the benches and steering wheel.
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> Now the hood and fenders need placing.


It's like the hand in the comics hey just uses 3 fingers same principle here.
Joe you haven't been paying attention I don't pay a lot attention to details unless it interests me and kerfs don't for some reason only my shrink would understand. lol.

I'm going to come over and put the evil eye on your turnings if you don't give me a break. lol

Looking at your picture change the label from *Kerf here* to* Kerf easy*, and the other one *No kerf here?* to* kerf harder. *
It's one of those things if I can do it and it will come out right I may do it[miter saw]
If I have to do it by hand and have a chance of buggering it up will most likely skip it.
Just my $.02


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *1935 Ford #2*
> 
> Just sand and sand and get er shaped up.
> But first gotta get the inside done and finished cause once the tops on you're not touching it.
> So let's build the benches and steering wheel.
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> Now the hood and fenders need placing.


FORD puts their hinges on inside of cars LMAO


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *1935 Ford #2*
> 
> Just sand and sand and get er shaped up.
> But first gotta get the inside done and finished cause once the tops on you're not touching it.
> So let's build the benches and steering wheel.
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> Now the hood and fenders need placing.





> and its a *FORD* so…
> 
> - GR8HUNTER


Nope it* pine*...


> Starting to run out of nice wood and don t want to put any $$$ into this car so thought I would try one out of some pine shelving and 2×4s.
> 
> - htl


htl couldn't *a*f*Ford* expensive timber… 


> Just sand and sand and get er shaped up.
> 
> - htl


Coming along nicely (and quickly). I'm guessing pine makes the sanding a tad easier..


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## htl

htl said:


> *1935 Ford #2*
> 
> Just sand and sand and get er shaped up.
> But first gotta get the inside done and finished cause once the tops on you're not touching it.
> So let's build the benches and steering wheel.
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> Now the hood and fenders need placing.





> Coming along nicely (and quickly). I m guessing pine makes the sanding a tad easier..
> 
> - LittleBlackDuck


To tell you the truth for me it makes it harder, the wood is so soft the sander leaves more marks and if there's anything under the pad it leaves marks and very fine once at that.
With oak once it's sanded it's good to go and can stand a little handling and bumping around.

I was hoping to put the Danish on it but will probable need to paint it to hide the scratches.
Plus you can get them plochy spots so,
Will be testing some wood to see.


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *1935 Ford #2*
> 
> Just sand and sand and get er shaped up.
> But first gotta get the inside done and finished cause once the tops on you're not touching it.
> So let's build the benches and steering wheel.
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> Now the hood and fenders need placing.


It will be a very nice toy!

Call it a "generic" and let it go!


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## htl

htl said:


> *1935 Ford #2*
> 
> Just sand and sand and get er shaped up.
> But first gotta get the inside done and finished cause once the tops on you're not touching it.
> So let's build the benches and steering wheel.
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> Now the hood and fenders need placing.


ralbuck your right this is *more on the toy side* easy to build and more heavy duty without all the small parts that can break off.

Being a fast build it's also a fun build.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *1935 Ford #2*
> 
> Just sand and sand and get er shaped up.
> But first gotta get the inside done and finished cause once the tops on you're not touching it.
> So let's build the benches and steering wheel.
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> Now the hood and fenders need placing.


It's a FORD - Its got look good and it sure does!!!


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## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *1935 Ford #2*
> 
> Just sand and sand and get er shaped up.
> But first gotta get the inside done and finished cause once the tops on you're not touching it.
> So let's build the benches and steering wheel.
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> Now the hood and fenders need placing.


*"Just sand and sand and get er shaped up"*


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## htl

htl said:


> *1935 Ford #2*
> 
> Just sand and sand and get er shaped up.
> But first gotta get the inside done and finished cause once the tops on you're not touching it.
> So let's build the benches and steering wheel.
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> Now the hood and fenders need placing.


Joe that t shirt hits it to a T!!!


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## bushmaster

htl said:


> *1935 Ford #2*
> 
> Just sand and sand and get er shaped up.
> But first gotta get the inside done and finished cause once the tops on you're not touching it.
> So let's build the benches and steering wheel.
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> Now the hood and fenders need placing.


you certanly are a master toy builder and I enjoy your construction photos. I do have one suggestion that i think y0u may be more happy with the finished project, is to put a solid wedge to the bottom of running boards for the taper of the engine section. Then you do not need the stub axle. This allows you to round the fenders right over, and makes it alittle more realistic. Check out the last one I did again. Just an idea that I found to work well, all the old cars had nice rounded fenders. I do hope you are not offended. Keep those toys coming.


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *1935 Ford #2*
> 
> Just sand and sand and get er shaped up.
> But first gotta get the inside done and finished cause once the tops on you're not touching it.
> So let's build the benches and steering wheel.
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> Now the hood and fenders need placing.


*Looking Good!*


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## htl

*1935 ford Just about there #3*

Just about done just needs some bumpers but way to hot to keep going so.
The floor boards fenders and the radiator were the main projects for this build.

Starting to get the feel for the fenders but they definitely slow you down if you want to get them right.












































The radiator was a half day project didn't really know what I wanted but it all came out after like 4 tries.




































Tested out some walnut danish oil which would be like putting on a dark stain and the pine would have bloached all over the place so just put a clear danish oil on it and it looks pretty nice not great but hey it's pine, probably should have stuck to either the 2×4 lumber or the clear pine they really don't match but the plan was to paint it which I still may do down the road.

Still need to make bumpers but if I'm going to paint it no need for bumpers just yet.































































Really have fun building these cars and I think it would be kinda cool to try painting it the more I think about it, but will have to check and see what the Danish oil did to it, more testing me thinks.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *1935 ford Just about there #3*
> 
> Just about done just needs some bumpers but way to hot to keep going so.
> The floor boards fenders and the radiator were the main projects for this build.
> 
> Starting to get the feel for the fenders but they definitely slow you down if you want to get them right.
> 
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> 
> The radiator was a half day project didn't really know what I wanted but it all came out after like 4 tries.
> 
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> 
> Tested out some walnut danish oil which would be like putting on a dark stain and the pine would have bloached all over the place so just put a clear danish oil on it and it looks pretty nice not great but hey it's pine, probably should have stuck to either the 2×4 lumber or the clear pine they really don't match but the plan was to paint it which I still may do down the road.
> 
> Still need to make bumpers but if I'm going to paint it no need for bumpers just yet.
> 
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> 
> Really have fun building these cars and I think it would be kinda cool to try painting it the more I think about it, but will have to check and see what the Danish oil did to it, more testing me thinks.


hi buddy ….......... if you paint it I will find you and kick you heiney …. or show you the hole in my belly…. or both LMAO


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *1935 ford Just about there #3*
> 
> Just about done just needs some bumpers but way to hot to keep going so.
> The floor boards fenders and the radiator were the main projects for this build.
> 
> Starting to get the feel for the fenders but they definitely slow you down if you want to get them right.
> 
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> 
> The radiator was a half day project didn't really know what I wanted but it all came out after like 4 tries.
> 
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> 
> Tested out some walnut danish oil which would be like putting on a dark stain and the pine would have bloached all over the place so just put a clear danish oil on it and it looks pretty nice not great but hey it's pine, probably should have stuck to either the 2×4 lumber or the clear pine they really don't match but the plan was to paint it which I still may do down the road.
> 
> Still need to make bumpers but if I'm going to paint it no need for bumpers just yet.
> 
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> 
> Really have fun building these cars and I think it would be kinda cool to try painting it the more I think about it, but will have to check and see what the Danish oil did to it, more testing me thinks.


I like the car but honestly I don't like the wood combinations. I know that you used waist wood for this car. Maybe a color paint will be indeed a good plan, but it is up to you Bruce.


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *1935 ford Just about there #3*
> 
> Just about done just needs some bumpers but way to hot to keep going so.
> The floor boards fenders and the radiator were the main projects for this build.
> 
> Starting to get the feel for the fenders but they definitely slow you down if you want to get them right.
> 
> 
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> 
> The radiator was a half day project didn't really know what I wanted but it all came out after like 4 tries.
> 
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> 
> Tested out some walnut danish oil which would be like putting on a dark stain and the pine would have bloached all over the place so just put a clear danish oil on it and it looks pretty nice not great but hey it's pine, probably should have stuck to either the 2×4 lumber or the clear pine they really don't match but the plan was to paint it which I still may do down the road.
> 
> Still need to make bumpers but if I'm going to paint it no need for bumpers just yet.
> 
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> 
> Really have fun building these cars and I think it would be kinda cool to try painting it the more I think about it, but will have to check and see what the Danish oil did to it, more testing me thinks.


It will be nice either way!

Paint does help poor wood look better, even on a "generic"-!


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## htl

htl said:


> *1935 ford Just about there #3*
> 
> Just about done just needs some bumpers but way to hot to keep going so.
> The floor boards fenders and the radiator were the main projects for this build.
> 
> Starting to get the feel for the fenders but they definitely slow you down if you want to get them right.
> 
> 
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> 
> The radiator was a half day project didn't really know what I wanted but it all came out after like 4 tries.
> 
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> 
> Tested out some walnut danish oil which would be like putting on a dark stain and the pine would have bloached all over the place so just put a clear danish oil on it and it looks pretty nice not great but hey it's pine, probably should have stuck to either the 2×4 lumber or the clear pine they really don't match but the plan was to paint it which I still may do down the road.
> 
> Still need to make bumpers but if I'm going to paint it no need for bumpers just yet.
> 
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> 
> Really have fun building these cars and I think it would be kinda cool to try painting it the more I think about it, but will have to check and see what the Danish oil did to it, more testing me thinks.


This was one of those things use the clear pine for the 3/4 stuff and used the 2×4 for the 1 1/2 stuff, saved me from gluing anything up.
Just wanted to make it really wasn't worried how it looked now with my 20-20 hind sight should a used some better wood. lol

I'm always wanting to try something different, hey i stunk up my hummer wheels getting them black didn't I so just may need to give this new fangled painting thing a try.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *1935 ford Just about there #3*
> 
> Just about done just needs some bumpers but way to hot to keep going so.
> The floor boards fenders and the radiator were the main projects for this build.
> 
> Starting to get the feel for the fenders but they definitely slow you down if you want to get them right.
> 
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> 
> The radiator was a half day project didn't really know what I wanted but it all came out after like 4 tries.
> 
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> 
> Tested out some walnut danish oil which would be like putting on a dark stain and the pine would have bloached all over the place so just put a clear danish oil on it and it looks pretty nice not great but hey it's pine, probably should have stuck to either the 2×4 lumber or the clear pine they really don't match but the plan was to paint it which I still may do down the road.
> 
> Still need to make bumpers but if I'm going to paint it no need for bumpers just yet.
> 
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> Really have fun building these cars and I think it would be kinda cool to try painting it the more I think about it, but will have to check and see what the Danish oil did to it, more testing me thinks.


G'Day Bruce, 
The radiator work looks great, but sir, I too am struggling with the mix/contrast of the very clear roof & sides against the figure/grain of the front…. maybe some stain on the clear timber could help but it might easily muck-up a beaut model…a very difficult decision.


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## johnstoneb

htl said:


> *1935 ford Just about there #3*
> 
> Just about done just needs some bumpers but way to hot to keep going so.
> The floor boards fenders and the radiator were the main projects for this build.
> 
> Starting to get the feel for the fenders but they definitely slow you down if you want to get them right.
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> The radiator was a half day project didn't really know what I wanted but it all came out after like 4 tries.
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> Tested out some walnut danish oil which would be like putting on a dark stain and the pine would have bloached all over the place so just put a clear danish oil on it and it looks pretty nice not great but hey it's pine, probably should have stuck to either the 2×4 lumber or the clear pine they really don't match but the plan was to paint it which I still may do down the road.
> 
> Still need to make bumpers but if I'm going to paint it no need for bumpers just yet.
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> Really have fun building these cars and I think it would be kinda cool to try painting it the more I think about it, but will have to check and see what the Danish oil did to it, more testing me thinks.


Looking good. I like the way your are using the grain.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *1935 ford Just about there #3*
> 
> Just about done just needs some bumpers but way to hot to keep going so.
> The floor boards fenders and the radiator were the main projects for this build.
> 
> Starting to get the feel for the fenders but they definitely slow you down if you want to get them right.
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> The radiator was a half day project didn't really know what I wanted but it all came out after like 4 tries.
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> 
> Tested out some walnut danish oil which would be like putting on a dark stain and the pine would have bloached all over the place so just put a clear danish oil on it and it looks pretty nice not great but hey it's pine, probably should have stuck to either the 2×4 lumber or the clear pine they really don't match but the plan was to paint it which I still may do down the road.
> 
> Still need to make bumpers but if I'm going to paint it no need for bumpers just yet.
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> Really have fun building these cars and I think it would be kinda cool to try painting it the more I think about it, but will have to check and see what the Danish oil did to it, more testing me thinks.


Love the radiator and the step. Also the grain doesn't detract from the model. If you are going to paint it, have you considered black stain or ebonising first, 2 c what eventuates. Hate to see the loss of grain. After all, everyone keeps saying its a Ford and wasn't coloured paint invented in the 1936?


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## bruce317

htl said:


> *1935 ford Just about there #3*
> 
> Just about done just needs some bumpers but way to hot to keep going so.
> The floor boards fenders and the radiator were the main projects for this build.
> 
> Starting to get the feel for the fenders but they definitely slow you down if you want to get them right.
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> The radiator was a half day project didn't really know what I wanted but it all came out after like 4 tries.
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> 
> Tested out some walnut danish oil which would be like putting on a dark stain and the pine would have bloached all over the place so just put a clear danish oil on it and it looks pretty nice not great but hey it's pine, probably should have stuck to either the 2×4 lumber or the clear pine they really don't match but the plan was to paint it which I still may do down the road.
> 
> Still need to make bumpers but if I'm going to paint it no need for bumpers just yet.
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> Really have fun building these cars and I think it would be kinda cool to try painting it the more I think about it, but will have to check and see what the Danish oil did to it, more testing me thinks.


Love the car! The old Fat Body style. I paint all my cars & trucks. use base wood for build. This is a hobby, so finish how you like. will look good either way.


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## htl

htl said:


> *1935 ford Just about there #3*
> 
> Just about done just needs some bumpers but way to hot to keep going so.
> The floor boards fenders and the radiator were the main projects for this build.
> 
> Starting to get the feel for the fenders but they definitely slow you down if you want to get them right.
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> The radiator was a half day project didn't really know what I wanted but it all came out after like 4 tries.
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> 
> Tested out some walnut danish oil which would be like putting on a dark stain and the pine would have bloached all over the place so just put a clear danish oil on it and it looks pretty nice not great but hey it's pine, probably should have stuck to either the 2×4 lumber or the clear pine they really don't match but the plan was to paint it which I still may do down the road.
> 
> Still need to make bumpers but if I'm going to paint it no need for bumpers just yet.
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> Really have fun building these cars and I think it would be kinda cool to try painting it the more I think about it, but will have to check and see what the Danish oil did to it, more testing me thinks.


Ok Bruce and Ducky, you talked me into it I'm going out with my paint brush and give it a lick right now!!! LOL


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## bruce317

htl said:


> *1935 ford Just about there #3*
> 
> Just about done just needs some bumpers but way to hot to keep going so.
> The floor boards fenders and the radiator were the main projects for this build.
> 
> Starting to get the feel for the fenders but they definitely slow you down if you want to get them right.
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> The radiator was a half day project didn't really know what I wanted but it all came out after like 4 tries.
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> 
> Tested out some walnut danish oil which would be like putting on a dark stain and the pine would have bloached all over the place so just put a clear danish oil on it and it looks pretty nice not great but hey it's pine, probably should have stuck to either the 2×4 lumber or the clear pine they really don't match but the plan was to paint it which I still may do down the road.
> 
> Still need to make bumpers but if I'm going to paint it no need for bumpers just yet.
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> Really have fun building these cars and I think it would be kinda cool to try painting it the more I think about it, but will have to check and see what the Danish oil did to it, more testing me thinks.


too many Bruce's. If you mean me in the above. Don't use brush for color, use spray can. Also blue painters tape to mask with.
If you meant Bruce from Boise Id. Then forget I sent this.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *1935 ford Just about there #3*
> 
> Just about done just needs some bumpers but way to hot to keep going so.
> The floor boards fenders and the radiator were the main projects for this build.
> 
> Starting to get the feel for the fenders but they definitely slow you down if you want to get them right.
> 
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> The radiator was a half day project didn't really know what I wanted but it all came out after like 4 tries.
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> Tested out some walnut danish oil which would be like putting on a dark stain and the pine would have bloached all over the place so just put a clear danish oil on it and it looks pretty nice not great but hey it's pine, probably should have stuck to either the 2×4 lumber or the clear pine they really don't match but the plan was to paint it which I still may do down the road.
> 
> Still need to make bumpers but if I'm going to paint it no need for bumpers just yet.
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> Really have fun building these cars and I think it would be kinda cool to try painting it the more I think about it, but will have to check and see what the Danish oil did to it, more testing me thinks.





> Ok Bruce and Ducky, you talked me into it I m going out with my paint brush and give it a lick right now!!! LOL
> 
> - htl


Whoa there pardner… Don't hang it on me about "talking you into it"! All I'm saying is if you must… repeat *must*... repeat *must*… and once more… *MUST* paint it… consider a black stain first. If you're going to "ruin" it, you might as well experiment first.

Sorry Brucessss, I have a phobia of paint on timber. Goes back to the days of the ex-father-in-law who went to the trouble of having old furniture sand blasted back to bare wood only to paint it… ugh… I still cringe… and that was 40 years ago… no wonder I divorced that woman.

Couldn't resist this foot note…


> hi buddy ….......... if you paint it I will find you and kick you heiney …. or show you the hole in my belly…. or both LMAO
> 
> - GR8HUNTER


Good to see you're recovering and hope you have the strength…

Sorry #4 and #3 and #1 and #2….


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## htl

htl said:


> *1935 ford Just about there #3*
> 
> Just about done just needs some bumpers but way to hot to keep going so.
> The floor boards fenders and the radiator were the main projects for this build.
> 
> Starting to get the feel for the fenders but they definitely slow you down if you want to get them right.
> 
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> The radiator was a half day project didn't really know what I wanted but it all came out after like 4 tries.
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> 
> Tested out some walnut danish oil which would be like putting on a dark stain and the pine would have bloached all over the place so just put a clear danish oil on it and it looks pretty nice not great but hey it's pine, probably should have stuck to either the 2×4 lumber or the clear pine they really don't match but the plan was to paint it which I still may do down the road.
> 
> Still need to make bumpers but if I'm going to paint it no need for bumpers just yet.
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> Really have fun building these cars and I think it would be kinda cool to try painting it the more I think about it, but will have to check and see what the Danish oil did to it, more testing me thinks.


I just put the car in a time machine and aged it 40 years.
And ducky and Bruce? I figured that might get a word or two out of you. LOL

So it's already got one coat of danish so lets try a coat of the walnut now that it's got something to stop the walnut from going to deep.

You can still see the different woods but it has blended them better, with the flash it's not a true picture but in normal light it's a lot better but as I said it has aged the car, gives it a dirty lived in look.
With flash


















Without
Remember the stain is still wet.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *1935 ford Just about there #3*
> 
> Just about done just needs some bumpers but way to hot to keep going so.
> The floor boards fenders and the radiator were the main projects for this build.
> 
> Starting to get the feel for the fenders but they definitely slow you down if you want to get them right.
> 
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> The radiator was a half day project didn't really know what I wanted but it all came out after like 4 tries.
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> 
> Tested out some walnut danish oil which would be like putting on a dark stain and the pine would have bloached all over the place so just put a clear danish oil on it and it looks pretty nice not great but hey it's pine, probably should have stuck to either the 2×4 lumber or the clear pine they really don't match but the plan was to paint it which I still may do down the road.
> 
> Still need to make bumpers but if I'm going to paint it no need for bumpers just yet.
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> Really have fun building these cars and I think it would be kinda cool to try painting it the more I think about it, but will have to check and see what the Danish oil did to it, more testing me thinks.


stop right there it looks GREAT JUST THE WAY IT IS throw some bumpers and headlights on it and put it on a shelf


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## bruce317

htl said:


> *1935 ford Just about there #3*
> 
> Just about done just needs some bumpers but way to hot to keep going so.
> The floor boards fenders and the radiator were the main projects for this build.
> 
> Starting to get the feel for the fenders but they definitely slow you down if you want to get them right.
> 
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> The radiator was a half day project didn't really know what I wanted but it all came out after like 4 tries.
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> 
> Tested out some walnut danish oil which would be like putting on a dark stain and the pine would have bloached all over the place so just put a clear danish oil on it and it looks pretty nice not great but hey it's pine, probably should have stuck to either the 2×4 lumber or the clear pine they really don't match but the plan was to paint it which I still may do down the road.
> 
> Still need to make bumpers but if I'm going to paint it no need for bumpers just yet.
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> Really have fun building these cars and I think it would be kinda cool to try painting it the more I think about it, but will have to check and see what the Danish oil did to it, more testing me thinks.


Must admit it do look great way it is!


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *1935 ford Just about there #3*
> 
> Just about done just needs some bumpers but way to hot to keep going so.
> The floor boards fenders and the radiator were the main projects for this build.
> 
> Starting to get the feel for the fenders but they definitely slow you down if you want to get them right.
> 
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> The radiator was a half day project didn't really know what I wanted but it all came out after like 4 tries.
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> 
> Tested out some walnut danish oil which would be like putting on a dark stain and the pine would have bloached all over the place so just put a clear danish oil on it and it looks pretty nice not great but hey it's pine, probably should have stuck to either the 2×4 lumber or the clear pine they really don't match but the plan was to paint it which I still may do down the road.
> 
> Still need to make bumpers but if I'm going to paint it no need for bumpers just yet.
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> Really have fun building these cars and I think it would be kinda cool to try painting it the more I think about it, but will have to check and see what the Danish oil did to it, more testing me thinks.


In the words of Meatloaf (and GR8)... lets have lunch… Nooooo, just kidding.









You can sing along (starts around the 0:40 mark) and look for the 5:04 minute mark

Looks good with the oil especially the second last pickie, but then I still like pine. Damn… I'll get you to black stain one of the models some day.


> ...put it on a shelf
> 
> - GR8HUNTER


at least a *black stained *shelf…

Now I'm redesigning your house… sorry.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *1935 ford Just about there #3*
> 
> Just about done just needs some bumpers but way to hot to keep going so.
> The floor boards fenders and the radiator were the main projects for this build.
> 
> Starting to get the feel for the fenders but they definitely slow you down if you want to get them right.
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> The radiator was a half day project didn't really know what I wanted but it all came out after like 4 tries.
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> 
> Tested out some walnut danish oil which would be like putting on a dark stain and the pine would have bloached all over the place so just put a clear danish oil on it and it looks pretty nice not great but hey it's pine, probably should have stuck to either the 2×4 lumber or the clear pine they really don't match but the plan was to paint it which I still may do down the road.
> 
> Still need to make bumpers but if I'm going to paint it no need for bumpers just yet.
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> Really have fun building these cars and I think it would be kinda cool to try painting it the more I think about it, but will have to check and see what the Danish oil did to it, more testing me thinks.


THINK DUCKY HAS A BLACK AND TYRE FETISH LMAO
Would look like a gangsta car if you would ebonize it …... awwwwww maybe next one LOL


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *1935 ford Just about there #3*
> 
> Just about done just needs some bumpers but way to hot to keep going so.
> The floor boards fenders and the radiator were the main projects for this build.
> 
> Starting to get the feel for the fenders but they definitely slow you down if you want to get them right.
> 
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> 
> The radiator was a half day project didn't really know what I wanted but it all came out after like 4 tries.
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> 
> Tested out some walnut danish oil which would be like putting on a dark stain and the pine would have bloached all over the place so just put a clear danish oil on it and it looks pretty nice not great but hey it's pine, probably should have stuck to either the 2×4 lumber or the clear pine they really don't match but the plan was to paint it which I still may do down the road.
> 
> Still need to make bumpers but if I'm going to paint it no need for bumpers just yet.
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> Really have fun building these cars and I think it would be kinda cool to try painting it the more I think about it, but will have to check and see what the Danish oil did to it, more testing me thinks.


Now ya talkin', GR8… Yep have a tIre fetish. As for black… I don't know why the missus call me Goth?


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## crowie

htl said:


> *1935 ford Just about there #3*
> 
> Just about done just needs some bumpers but way to hot to keep going so.
> The floor boards fenders and the radiator were the main projects for this build.
> 
> Starting to get the feel for the fenders but they definitely slow you down if you want to get them right.
> 
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> 
> The radiator was a half day project didn't really know what I wanted but it all came out after like 4 tries.
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> 
> Tested out some walnut danish oil which would be like putting on a dark stain and the pine would have bloached all over the place so just put a clear danish oil on it and it looks pretty nice not great but hey it's pine, probably should have stuck to either the 2×4 lumber or the clear pine they really don't match but the plan was to paint it which I still may do down the road.
> 
> Still need to make bumpers but if I'm going to paint it no need for bumpers just yet.
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> Really have fun building these cars and I think it would be kinda cool to try painting it the more I think about it, but will have to check and see what the Danish oil did to it, more testing me thinks.


Bruce, with the finish on it, it ready does look great sir; now the grain is a highlight..


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## htl

htl said:


> *1935 ford Just about there #3*
> 
> Just about done just needs some bumpers but way to hot to keep going so.
> The floor boards fenders and the radiator were the main projects for this build.
> 
> Starting to get the feel for the fenders but they definitely slow you down if you want to get them right.
> 
> 
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> 
> The radiator was a half day project didn't really know what I wanted but it all came out after like 4 tries.
> 
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> 
> Tested out some walnut danish oil which would be like putting on a dark stain and the pine would have bloached all over the place so just put a clear danish oil on it and it looks pretty nice not great but hey it's pine, probably should have stuck to either the 2×4 lumber or the clear pine they really don't match but the plan was to paint it which I still may do down the road.
> 
> Still need to make bumpers but if I'm going to paint it no need for bumpers just yet.
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> 
> Really have fun building these cars and I think it would be kinda cool to try painting it the more I think about it, but will have to check and see what the Danish oil did to it, more testing me thinks.


If I would have used oak like the hummer it would have really turned out much better[and easier shaping and sanding wise] but was still experimenting with the fenders and trying to get it more life like so not really worried if it turned out shelf worthy..
Wanted to have grooves in the running board which really made it a little harder to bring it all together.
I was tempted when I started to make it into the coupe but chickened out and just went with the plans.

Still not happy with the finish so may try the paint thing once the danish is dry.
Will be experimenting on some wood sample first.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *1935 ford Just about there #3*
> 
> Just about done just needs some bumpers but way to hot to keep going so.
> The floor boards fenders and the radiator were the main projects for this build.
> 
> Starting to get the feel for the fenders but they definitely slow you down if you want to get them right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> The radiator was a half day project didn't really know what I wanted but it all came out after like 4 tries.
> 
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> 
> Tested out some walnut danish oil which would be like putting on a dark stain and the pine would have bloached all over the place so just put a clear danish oil on it and it looks pretty nice not great but hey it's pine, probably should have stuck to either the 2×4 lumber or the clear pine they really don't match but the plan was to paint it which I still may do down the road.
> 
> Still need to make bumpers but if I'm going to paint it no need for bumpers just yet.
> 
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> Really have fun building these cars and I think it would be kinda cool to try painting it the more I think about it, but will have to check and see what the Danish oil did to it, more testing me thinks.





> Still not happy with the finish so may try the paint thing once the danish is dry.
> Will be experimenting on some wood sample first.
> 
> - htl


Couldn't sit back and say nothing, even from past prompting.

It's hard at times to fully judge from pictures as most times they take away from the unit, however, on the odd occasion it does an about face. You are a better judge and after all we only have a small shareholding on your builds.

Still on my soap box but only because you are going to paint and seem prepared to put on that little fury costume and act like a guinea-pig. Not sure if you have that adage in Yankyland, but here in the land of the good looking and righteous, it is not a derogatory term but refers to experimentation.

Don't know how Danish oil reacts with black stain, however, tung oil (they should be similar), leaved this incredible bronzish hue. With me it may have been an one off accidental result but when applied to tyres, bronze just did not cut the mustard… even spelt with an "I" (and I DON"T mean m*I*stard)..


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## htl

*1935 Ford Blacked Out*

It's really hard to get any nice pictures with the black.

Still playing with the Ford, this time put some black laquer on it to see what that would do.
Hard to keep the dust off of it to get a picture but you get the idea.
A little fine sanding and maybe one more light coat, then some polish?


















Here's some shots without the flash.








You can still see and feel the wood grain but one more shot of the paint would end that I believe.
When I was painting it I went over it a bunch a times but with a very light coat so it wouldn't run or get thick.


















The black really shows all the little dings in the pine, can see where it would pay to go over it with some putty or sheet rock mud to even it out but I'll stick to the harder woods from now on and not have all these headaches.
I sanded and sanded but when I was putting on the oil it got hit just a little and it really shows with the black paint.
Must say I learned a lot and that's what it's all about for me.


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *1935 Ford Blacked Out*
> 
> It's really hard to get any nice pictures with the black.
> 
> Still playing with the Ford, this time put some black laquer on it to see what that would do.
> Hard to keep the dust off of it to get a picture but you get the idea.
> A little fine sanding and maybe one more light coat, then some polish?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> Here's some shots without the flash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can still see and feel the wood grain but one more shot of the paint would end that I believe.
> When I was painting it I went over it a bunch a times but with a very light coat so it wouldn't run or get thick.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> The black really shows all the little dings in the pine, can see where it would pay to go over it with some putty or sheet rock mud to even it out but I'll stick to the harder woods from now on and not have all these headaches.
> I sanded and sanded but when I was putting on the oil it got hit just a little and it really shows with the black paint.
> Must say I learned a lot and that's what it's all about for me.


It still looks good.

A satin cream color will hide the dings and still look good.

Or leave the fender s black and use a medium grey for the rest.


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## htl

htl said:


> *1935 Ford Blacked Out*
> 
> It's really hard to get any nice pictures with the black.
> 
> Still playing with the Ford, this time put some black laquer on it to see what that would do.
> Hard to keep the dust off of it to get a picture but you get the idea.
> A little fine sanding and maybe one more light coat, then some polish?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> Here's some shots without the flash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can still see and feel the wood grain but one more shot of the paint would end that I believe.
> When I was painting it I went over it a bunch a times but with a very light coat so it wouldn't run or get thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> The black really shows all the little dings in the pine, can see where it would pay to go over it with some putty or sheet rock mud to even it out but I'll stick to the harder woods from now on and not have all these headaches.
> I sanded and sanded but when I was putting on the oil it got hit just a little and it really shows with the black paint.
> Must say I learned a lot and that's what it's all about for me.


A year or so ago I asked my wife to get me some clear lacquer from wallymart and she came home with a couple a cans of black lacquer so that's why it's black. lol
It's about as far as it's going to get besides the bumpers maybe.
On to the Lowboy project.


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *1935 Ford Blacked Out*
> 
> It's really hard to get any nice pictures with the black.
> 
> Still playing with the Ford, this time put some black laquer on it to see what that would do.
> Hard to keep the dust off of it to get a picture but you get the idea.
> A little fine sanding and maybe one more light coat, then some polish?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> Here's some shots without the flash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can still see and feel the wood grain but one more shot of the paint would end that I believe.
> When I was painting it I went over it a bunch a times but with a very light coat so it wouldn't run or get thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> The black really shows all the little dings in the pine, can see where it would pay to go over it with some putty or sheet rock mud to even it out but I'll stick to the harder woods from now on and not have all these headaches.
> I sanded and sanded but when I was putting on the oil it got hit just a little and it really shows with the black paint.
> Must say I learned a lot and that's what it's all about for me.


Myself I prefer a transparent finish, but this black paint finish is also nice.


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## bruce317

htl said:


> *1935 Ford Blacked Out*
> 
> It's really hard to get any nice pictures with the black.
> 
> Still playing with the Ford, this time put some black laquer on it to see what that would do.
> Hard to keep the dust off of it to get a picture but you get the idea.
> A little fine sanding and maybe one more light coat, then some polish?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's some shots without the flash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can still see and feel the wood grain but one more shot of the paint would end that I believe.
> When I was painting it I went over it a bunch a times but with a very light coat so it wouldn't run or get thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The black really shows all the little dings in the pine, can see where it would pay to go over it with some putty or sheet rock mud to even it out but I'll stick to the harder woods from now on and not have all these headaches.
> I sanded and sanded but when I was putting on the oil it got hit just a little and it really shows with the black paint.
> Must say I learned a lot and that's what it's all about for me.


I thought it looked good with other finish. but I do paint mine. So I do like it painted. You said earlier you thought about a coupe. DO THE COUPE!


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## htl

htl said:


> *1935 Ford Blacked Out*
> 
> It's really hard to get any nice pictures with the black.
> 
> Still playing with the Ford, this time put some black laquer on it to see what that would do.
> Hard to keep the dust off of it to get a picture but you get the idea.
> A little fine sanding and maybe one more light coat, then some polish?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's some shots without the flash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can still see and feel the wood grain but one more shot of the paint would end that I believe.
> When I was painting it I went over it a bunch a times but with a very light coat so it wouldn't run or get thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> The black really shows all the little dings in the pine, can see where it would pay to go over it with some putty or sheet rock mud to even it out but I'll stick to the harder woods from now on and not have all these headaches.
> I sanded and sanded but when I was putting on the oil it got hit just a little and it really shows with the black paint.
> Must say I learned a lot and that's what it's all about for me.


Made the mistake of trying pine and then the 2×4's so my mistakes just kept getting worse and worse but as I said learned a lot and will stick to the hard woods from now on.
Even if I was to need to paint another car or what ever the hard woods are so much easier to work with you aren't really saving any money for all the extra work it takes to get the pine looking good.
Of course there are tricks I don't know about so for some it works out.
I'm like you Dutchy just like the natural woods, looks and feel better.

I kinda did the same thing with the Linclon, I started out to go with the cheaper woods but after I got started changed my mind and redid a bunch a parts using better wood for a much nicer project.

So as the saying goes "been there did that" and there's no need to go there again for me any way.

Not saying I don't like it, it was fun and learned a lot just like the look of the wood better.


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## htl

htl said:


> *1935 Ford Blacked Out*
> 
> It's really hard to get any nice pictures with the black.
> 
> Still playing with the Ford, this time put some black laquer on it to see what that would do.
> Hard to keep the dust off of it to get a picture but you get the idea.
> A little fine sanding and maybe one more light coat, then some polish?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's some shots without the flash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can still see and feel the wood grain but one more shot of the paint would end that I believe.
> When I was painting it I went over it a bunch a times but with a very light coat so it wouldn't run or get thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The black really shows all the little dings in the pine, can see where it would pay to go over it with some putty or sheet rock mud to even it out but I'll stick to the harder woods from now on and not have all these headaches.
> I sanded and sanded but when I was putting on the oil it got hit just a little and it really shows with the black paint.
> Must say I learned a lot and that's what it's all about for me.


Bruce if I did the coupe I would have to make it a hot rod, kinda like one of my first projects here.
But I've come a long way since then.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *1935 Ford Blacked Out*
> 
> It's really hard to get any nice pictures with the black.
> 
> Still playing with the Ford, this time put some black laquer on it to see what that would do.
> Hard to keep the dust off of it to get a picture but you get the idea.
> A little fine sanding and maybe one more light coat, then some polish?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's some shots without the flash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can still see and feel the wood grain but one more shot of the paint would end that I believe.
> When I was painting it I went over it a bunch a times but with a very light coat so it wouldn't run or get thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The black really shows all the little dings in the pine, can see where it would pay to go over it with some putty or sheet rock mud to even it out but I'll stick to the harder woods from now on and not have all these headaches.
> I sanded and sanded but when I was putting on the oil it got hit just a little and it really shows with the black paint.
> Must say I learned a lot and that's what it's all about for me.


you know me buddy ….. I cant stand to see wood painted … BUT I guess I'll let you slid on this one …LMAO


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## htl

htl said:


> *1935 Ford Blacked Out*
> 
> It's really hard to get any nice pictures with the black.
> 
> Still playing with the Ford, this time put some black laquer on it to see what that would do.
> Hard to keep the dust off of it to get a picture but you get the idea.
> A little fine sanding and maybe one more light coat, then some polish?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's some shots without the flash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can still see and feel the wood grain but one more shot of the paint would end that I believe.
> When I was painting it I went over it a bunch a times but with a very light coat so it wouldn't run or get thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The black really shows all the little dings in the pine, can see where it would pay to go over it with some putty or sheet rock mud to even it out but I'll stick to the harder woods from now on and not have all these headaches.
> I sanded and sanded but when I was putting on the oil it got hit just a little and it really shows with the black paint.
> Must say I learned a lot and that's what it's all about for me.


Hey if you make something ugly paint it. lol


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *1935 Ford Blacked Out*
> 
> It's really hard to get any nice pictures with the black.
> 
> Still playing with the Ford, this time put some black laquer on it to see what that would do.
> Hard to keep the dust off of it to get a picture but you get the idea.
> A little fine sanding and maybe one more light coat, then some polish?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's some shots without the flash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can still see and feel the wood grain but one more shot of the paint would end that I believe.
> When I was painting it I went over it a bunch a times but with a very light coat so it wouldn't run or get thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The black really shows all the little dings in the pine, can see where it would pay to go over it with some putty or sheet rock mud to even it out but I'll stick to the harder woods from now on and not have all these headaches.
> I sanded and sanded but when I was putting on the oil it got hit just a little and it really shows with the black paint.
> Must say I learned a lot and that's what it's all about for me.





> Hey if you make something ugly paint it. lol
> 
> - htl


No wonder the missus follows me with a spray can… a BIG spray can…

Like D and T (and yourself), I'm sure I have exalted my preference for raw/oiled wood. However, that finish does not look that bad at all (considering). I rant about stain but that is because it lets the grain show through, obviously that doesn't seem like your preference in this model and you've got the actual eyewitness perspective (regarding further coats).

Probably a tad late now and I'm sure you know about it, but just in case you avoid household chores like I do, there is an invention called a* hot iron * and with a wet rag does wonders on misbehaving pine. Making a lot of builds out of pine (my model cabinets recently) have been beautified by that trick. While I've heard about it for a long time I only started using that practice just recently. Incredible the depth of dings it will resurrect. Sorry if I'm preaching to the converted.

One thing I would like to add though, I really don't think the timber tyres suit the black. You may need to give them a more rubber look with whitewalls perhaps?


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *1935 Ford Blacked Out*
> 
> It's really hard to get any nice pictures with the black.
> 
> Still playing with the Ford, this time put some black laquer on it to see what that would do.
> Hard to keep the dust off of it to get a picture but you get the idea.
> A little fine sanding and maybe one more light coat, then some polish?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's some shots without the flash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can still see and feel the wood grain but one more shot of the paint would end that I believe.
> When I was painting it I went over it a bunch a times but with a very light coat so it wouldn't run or get thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The black really shows all the little dings in the pine, can see where it would pay to go over it with some putty or sheet rock mud to even it out but I'll stick to the harder woods from now on and not have all these headaches.
> I sanded and sanded but when I was putting on the oil it got hit just a little and it really shows with the black paint.
> Must say I learned a lot and that's what it's all about for me.


Bruce, It could be the real car at a glance sir… I like it.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *1935 Ford Blacked Out*
> 
> It's really hard to get any nice pictures with the black.
> 
> Still playing with the Ford, this time put some black laquer on it to see what that would do.
> Hard to keep the dust off of it to get a picture but you get the idea.
> A little fine sanding and maybe one more light coat, then some polish?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's some shots without the flash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can still see and feel the wood grain but one more shot of the paint would end that I believe.
> When I was painting it I went over it a bunch a times but with a very light coat so it wouldn't run or get thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The black really shows all the little dings in the pine, can see where it would pay to go over it with some putty or sheet rock mud to even it out but I'll stick to the harder woods from now on and not have all these headaches.
> I sanded and sanded but when I was putting on the oil it got hit just a little and it really shows with the black paint.
> Must say I learned a lot and that's what it's all about for me.


I may play with the extra set of spock wheels for this car but not going to be doing much more with it.
I've squeezed all the learning I can out of it , it's time to move on.
This is one car I wouldn't feel bad giving to some young'un it's heavy duty for a kid.


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *1935 Ford Blacked Out*
> 
> It's really hard to get any nice pictures with the black.
> 
> Still playing with the Ford, this time put some black laquer on it to see what that would do.
> Hard to keep the dust off of it to get a picture but you get the idea.
> A little fine sanding and maybe one more light coat, then some polish?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's some shots without the flash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can still see and feel the wood grain but one more shot of the paint would end that I believe.
> When I was painting it I went over it a bunch a times but with a very light coat so it wouldn't run or get thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The black really shows all the little dings in the pine, can see where it would pay to go over it with some putty or sheet rock mud to even it out but I'll stick to the harder woods from now on and not have all these headaches.
> I sanded and sanded but when I was putting on the oil it got hit just a little and it really shows with the black paint.
> Must say I learned a lot and that's what it's all about for me.





> you know me buddy ….. I cant stand to see wood painted … BUT I guess I ll let you slid on this one …LMAO
> 
> - GR8HUNTER


I saw this on a t-shirt years ago!


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *1935 Ford Blacked Out*
> 
> It's really hard to get any nice pictures with the black.
> 
> Still playing with the Ford, this time put some black laquer on it to see what that would do.
> Hard to keep the dust off of it to get a picture but you get the idea.
> A little fine sanding and maybe one more light coat, then some polish?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's some shots without the flash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can still see and feel the wood grain but one more shot of the paint would end that I believe.
> When I was painting it I went over it a bunch a times but with a very light coat so it wouldn't run or get thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The black really shows all the little dings in the pine, can see where it would pay to go over it with some putty or sheet rock mud to even it out but I'll stick to the harder woods from now on and not have all these headaches.
> I sanded and sanded but when I was putting on the oil it got hit just a little and it really shows with the black paint.
> Must say I learned a lot and that's what it's all about for me.


How did you mask off the interior (and wheels) so they wouldn't get any spray on 'em? Oh, by the way, I like this in black.

And remember *"Black Fords Matter" *


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *1935 Ford Blacked Out*
> 
> It's really hard to get any nice pictures with the black.
> 
> Still playing with the Ford, this time put some black laquer on it to see what that would do.
> Hard to keep the dust off of it to get a picture but you get the idea.
> A little fine sanding and maybe one more light coat, then some polish?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's some shots without the flash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can still see and feel the wood grain but one more shot of the paint would end that I believe.
> When I was painting it I went over it a bunch a times but with a very light coat so it wouldn't run or get thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The black really shows all the little dings in the pine, can see where it would pay to go over it with some putty or sheet rock mud to even it out but I'll stick to the harder woods from now on and not have all these headaches.
> I sanded and sanded but when I was putting on the oil it got hit just a little and it really shows with the black paint.
> Must say I learned a lot and that's what it's all about for me.


I just filled it with toilet paper and the wheels aren't glued on yet, not sure if these will be the ones have a set of spokers but need to darken them up bit to fit in.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *1935 Ford Blacked Out*
> 
> It's really hard to get any nice pictures with the black.
> 
> Still playing with the Ford, this time put some black laquer on it to see what that would do.
> Hard to keep the dust off of it to get a picture but you get the idea.
> A little fine sanding and maybe one more light coat, then some polish?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's some shots without the flash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can still see and feel the wood grain but one more shot of the paint would end that I believe.
> When I was painting it I went over it a bunch a times but with a very light coat so it wouldn't run or get thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The black really shows all the little dings in the pine, can see where it would pay to go over it with some putty or sheet rock mud to even it out but I'll stick to the harder woods from now on and not have all these headaches.
> I sanded and sanded but when I was putting on the oil it got hit just a little and it really shows with the black paint.
> Must say I learned a lot and that's what it's all about for me.





> ... not sure if these will be the ones have a set of spokers but…
> 
> - htl


Wasn't sure whether you were gonna do something about the front wheel Masala (from Ben-Hur) axle scimitars.








The front ones looked deadly… worthy of a Ford..


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *1935 Ford Blacked Out*
> 
> It's really hard to get any nice pictures with the black.
> 
> Still playing with the Ford, this time put some black laquer on it to see what that would do.
> Hard to keep the dust off of it to get a picture but you get the idea.
> A little fine sanding and maybe one more light coat, then some polish?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's some shots without the flash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can still see and feel the wood grain but one more shot of the paint would end that I believe.
> When I was painting it I went over it a bunch a times but with a very light coat so it wouldn't run or get thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The black really shows all the little dings in the pine, can see where it would pay to go over it with some putty or sheet rock mud to even it out but I'll stick to the harder woods from now on and not have all these headaches.
> I sanded and sanded but when I was putting on the oil it got hit just a little and it really shows with the black paint.
> Must say I learned a lot and that's what it's all about for me.


Looking good to me, anyway, the early Fords came in any color you like as long as it was Black.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *1935 Ford Blacked Out*
> 
> It's really hard to get any nice pictures with the black.
> 
> Still playing with the Ford, this time put some black laquer on it to see what that would do.
> Hard to keep the dust off of it to get a picture but you get the idea.
> A little fine sanding and maybe one more light coat, then some polish?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's some shots without the flash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can still see and feel the wood grain but one more shot of the paint would end that I believe.
> When I was painting it I went over it a bunch a times but with a very light coat so it wouldn't run or get thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The black really shows all the little dings in the pine, can see where it would pay to go over it with some putty or sheet rock mud to even it out but I'll stick to the harder woods from now on and not have all these headaches.
> I sanded and sanded but when I was putting on the oil it got hit just a little and it really shows with the black paint.
> Must say I learned a lot and that's what it's all about for me.


#4, How did I ever miss this statement?.... I'm getting old… *oldrivers* gave the wake up call…


> It s really hard to get any nice pictures with the black.
> 
> - htl





> ... as long as it was* Black*.
> 
> - oldrivers


*NO IT's NOT*.....


----------



## htl

*Low Boy Trailer build #1*

Well it's about time to get my Excavator a trailer, so the low boy is on the table.
Just cutting out some of the main parts.

I had found a wobble dado blade at a yard sale some time back but my Dewalt can't use it so ordered a 5/8 arbor for the Shopsmith so now I can cut my dados in one pass where it used to take me forever to get er done.

Back 30 something years ago I used to use a wobble blade on my dewalt radial arm saw but from what I remember it would vibrate a little but on the Shopsmith it really ran smooth as silk but this one has more teeth so that could be the reason.










I need to make a zero clearance cover for the saw, I thought I had made some and I did but it was for the older model so will be making some covers here shortly.




































I'm going off the plans a little and will have dowels down the middle instead of solid wood.



























I know this isn't much but I took quite a bit a time making sure I had the wobble blade set up right on the Shopsmith, not something you want to get wrong me thinks.
It cut smooth as butter so will feel better from now on setting it up and using it.
I sure could have used it on the tracks for the Excavator, would have saved me a day or two.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer build #1*
> 
> Well it's about time to get my Excavator a trailer, so the low boy is on the table.
> Just cutting out some of the main parts.
> 
> I had found a wobble dado blade at a yard sale some time back but my Dewalt can't use it so ordered a 5/8 arbor for the Shopsmith so now I can cut my dados in one pass where it used to take me forever to get er done.
> 
> Back 30 something years ago I used to use a wobble blade on my dewalt radial arm saw but from what I remember it would vibrate a little but on the Shopsmith it really ran smooth as silk but this one has more teeth so that could be the reason.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to make a zero clearance cover for the saw, I thought I had made some and I did but it was for the older model so will be making some covers here shortly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going off the plans a little and will have dowels down the middle instead of solid wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know this isn't much but I took quite a bit a time making sure I had the wobble blade set up right on the Shopsmith, not something you want to get wrong me thinks.
> It cut smooth as butter so will feel better from now on setting it up and using it.
> I sure could have used it on the tracks for the Excavator, would have saved me a day or two.


I thought about using the dado for my tracks …...... just not sure about wood …......walnuts wacky ….......


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer build #1*
> 
> Well it's about time to get my Excavator a trailer, so the low boy is on the table.
> Just cutting out some of the main parts.
> 
> I had found a wobble dado blade at a yard sale some time back but my Dewalt can't use it so ordered a 5/8 arbor for the Shopsmith so now I can cut my dados in one pass where it used to take me forever to get er done.
> 
> Back 30 something years ago I used to use a wobble blade on my dewalt radial arm saw but from what I remember it would vibrate a little but on the Shopsmith it really ran smooth as silk but this one has more teeth so that could be the reason.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to make a zero clearance cover for the saw, I thought I had made some and I did but it was for the older model so will be making some covers here shortly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going off the plans a little and will have dowels down the middle instead of solid wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know this isn't much but I took quite a bit a time making sure I had the wobble blade set up right on the Shopsmith, not something you want to get wrong me thinks.
> It cut smooth as butter so will feel better from now on setting it up and using it.
> I sure could have used it on the tracks for the Excavator, would have saved me a day or two.


You sure don't just sit around Bruce, but make the most of the time, timber and machinery…

Got to have a sit for this build as your Work In Progress photos & notes are always good, thank you.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer build #1*
> 
> Well it's about time to get my Excavator a trailer, so the low boy is on the table.
> Just cutting out some of the main parts.
> 
> I had found a wobble dado blade at a yard sale some time back but my Dewalt can't use it so ordered a 5/8 arbor for the Shopsmith so now I can cut my dados in one pass where it used to take me forever to get er done.
> 
> Back 30 something years ago I used to use a wobble blade on my dewalt radial arm saw but from what I remember it would vibrate a little but on the Shopsmith it really ran smooth as silk but this one has more teeth so that could be the reason.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to make a zero clearance cover for the saw, I thought I had made some and I did but it was for the older model so will be making some covers here shortly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going off the plans a little and will have dowels down the middle instead of solid wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know this isn't much but I took quite a bit a time making sure I had the wobble blade set up right on the Shopsmith, not something you want to get wrong me thinks.
> It cut smooth as butter so will feel better from now on setting it up and using it.
> I sure could have used it on the tracks for the Excavator, would have saved me a day or two.


#4, Serious question for a change.

Is there any specific reason you use the dado rather than a router (table). I avoid dados like a plague, even though I "love" them, only because it's a pain to change out the blades (on *my* table saw)... I also find that I am not organised and as soon as I mount a dado I need the use of the standard blade (almost immediately) that cannot wait till I've exhausted my dado requirements.

I am assuming you have a router table… (hats off if you don't).


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer build #1*
> 
> Well it's about time to get my Excavator a trailer, so the low boy is on the table.
> Just cutting out some of the main parts.
> 
> I had found a wobble dado blade at a yard sale some time back but my Dewalt can't use it so ordered a 5/8 arbor for the Shopsmith so now I can cut my dados in one pass where it used to take me forever to get er done.
> 
> Back 30 something years ago I used to use a wobble blade on my dewalt radial arm saw but from what I remember it would vibrate a little but on the Shopsmith it really ran smooth as silk but this one has more teeth so that could be the reason.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to make a zero clearance cover for the saw, I thought I had made some and I did but it was for the older model so will be making some covers here shortly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going off the plans a little and will have dowels down the middle instead of solid wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know this isn't much but I took quite a bit a time making sure I had the wobble blade set up right on the Shopsmith, not something you want to get wrong me thinks.
> It cut smooth as butter so will feel better from now on setting it up and using it.
> I sure could have used it on the tracks for the Excavator, would have saved me a day or two.





> #4, Serious question for a change.
> 
> Is there any specific reason you use the dado rather than a router (table). I avoid dados like a plague, even though I "love" them, only because it s a pain to change out the blades (on *my* table saw)... I also find that I am not organised and as soon as I mount a dado I need the use of the standard blade (almost immediately) that cannot wait till I ve exhausted my dado requirements.
> 
> I am assuming you have a router table… (hats off if you don t).
> 
> - LittleBlackDuck


I just don't think its that hard to change the blades back and forth …..... I do own a router table .. but I find that is more of a pain ….....LMAO
you say tyre I say tire


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer build #1*
> 
> Well it's about time to get my Excavator a trailer, so the low boy is on the table.
> Just cutting out some of the main parts.
> 
> I had found a wobble dado blade at a yard sale some time back but my Dewalt can't use it so ordered a 5/8 arbor for the Shopsmith so now I can cut my dados in one pass where it used to take me forever to get er done.
> 
> Back 30 something years ago I used to use a wobble blade on my dewalt radial arm saw but from what I remember it would vibrate a little but on the Shopsmith it really ran smooth as silk but this one has more teeth so that could be the reason.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to make a zero clearance cover for the saw, I thought I had made some and I did but it was for the older model so will be making some covers here shortly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going off the plans a little and will have dowels down the middle instead of solid wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know this isn't much but I took quite a bit a time making sure I had the wobble blade set up right on the Shopsmith, not something you want to get wrong me thinks.
> It cut smooth as butter so will feel better from now on setting it up and using it.
> I sure could have used it on the tracks for the Excavator, would have saved me a day or two.


I made a router table it's one of my projects here but quit using it so took all the useful things off it and chucked it. lol
I would much rather use the table saw than a router for this work, I seem to get a much cleaner and sharper cut.
With the Shopsmith the table saw is used very little or at all except now for dados.
The blade is on it's own arbor so it always can stay at 1/2 if I wish, just a minute change and it's on or off.
I like to keep my routers set for one job so not in to change the set up any more than I have to.

You may think I'm afraid of the router but no years ago when I had my cabinet shop mostly all I did was plastic laminate work so routers were used all most all day long.

Hunter you must have been typing your comment at the same time I was. lol

Like you I can set up the table saw faster or just like it better ???


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer build #1*
> 
> Well it's about time to get my Excavator a trailer, so the low boy is on the table.
> Just cutting out some of the main parts.
> 
> I had found a wobble dado blade at a yard sale some time back but my Dewalt can't use it so ordered a 5/8 arbor for the Shopsmith so now I can cut my dados in one pass where it used to take me forever to get er done.
> 
> Back 30 something years ago I used to use a wobble blade on my dewalt radial arm saw but from what I remember it would vibrate a little but on the Shopsmith it really ran smooth as silk but this one has more teeth so that could be the reason.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to make a zero clearance cover for the saw, I thought I had made some and I did but it was for the older model so will be making some covers here shortly.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> I'm going off the plans a little and will have dowels down the middle instead of solid wood.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know this isn't much but I took quite a bit a time making sure I had the wobble blade set up right on the Shopsmith, not something you want to get wrong me thinks.
> It cut smooth as butter so will feel better from now on setting it up and using it.
> I sure could have used it on the tracks for the Excavator, would have saved me a day or two.


Thx guys. I admit the table saw is better (cleaner and safer) but the arbor on mine is in such a place that when I raise it there is little clearance between it and the table top and when I lower it it's difficult to manoeuvre the blade over it. Removing the dado is then a reverse struggle.

GR8, it looks like my table saw issue is idiosyncratic as your table saw and ZCI.
You say tomito.. but we all know its tomyto.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer build #1*
> 
> Well it's about time to get my Excavator a trailer, so the low boy is on the table.
> Just cutting out some of the main parts.
> 
> I had found a wobble dado blade at a yard sale some time back but my Dewalt can't use it so ordered a 5/8 arbor for the Shopsmith so now I can cut my dados in one pass where it used to take me forever to get er done.
> 
> Back 30 something years ago I used to use a wobble blade on my dewalt radial arm saw but from what I remember it would vibrate a little but on the Shopsmith it really ran smooth as silk but this one has more teeth so that could be the reason.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to make a zero clearance cover for the saw, I thought I had made some and I did but it was for the older model so will be making some covers here shortly.
> 
> 
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> 
> I'm going off the plans a little and will have dowels down the middle instead of solid wood.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> I know this isn't much but I took quite a bit a time making sure I had the wobble blade set up right on the Shopsmith, not something you want to get wrong me thinks.
> It cut smooth as butter so will feel better from now on setting it up and using it.
> I sure could have used it on the tracks for the Excavator, would have saved me a day or two.


How about some photos of all your router table setup's please gents!!


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## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer build #1*
> 
> Well it's about time to get my Excavator a trailer, so the low boy is on the table.
> Just cutting out some of the main parts.
> 
> I had found a wobble dado blade at a yard sale some time back but my Dewalt can't use it so ordered a 5/8 arbor for the Shopsmith so now I can cut my dados in one pass where it used to take me forever to get er done.
> 
> Back 30 something years ago I used to use a wobble blade on my dewalt radial arm saw but from what I remember it would vibrate a little but on the Shopsmith it really ran smooth as silk but this one has more teeth so that could be the reason.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to make a zero clearance cover for the saw, I thought I had made some and I did but it was for the older model so will be making some covers here shortly.
> 
> 
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> 
> I'm going off the plans a little and will have dowels down the middle instead of solid wood.
> 
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> 
> 
> I know this isn't much but I took quite a bit a time making sure I had the wobble blade set up right on the Shopsmith, not something you want to get wrong me thinks.
> It cut smooth as butter so will feel better from now on setting it up and using it.
> I sure could have used it on the tracks for the Excavator, would have saved me a day or two.


*So was this a little "OOPSIE" with the Dado blade? *


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## htl

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer build #1*
> 
> Well it's about time to get my Excavator a trailer, so the low boy is on the table.
> Just cutting out some of the main parts.
> 
> I had found a wobble dado blade at a yard sale some time back but my Dewalt can't use it so ordered a 5/8 arbor for the Shopsmith so now I can cut my dados in one pass where it used to take me forever to get er done.
> 
> Back 30 something years ago I used to use a wobble blade on my dewalt radial arm saw but from what I remember it would vibrate a little but on the Shopsmith it really ran smooth as silk but this one has more teeth so that could be the reason.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to make a zero clearance cover for the saw, I thought I had made some and I did but it was for the older model so will be making some covers here shortly.
> 
> 
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> 
> I'm going off the plans a little and will have dowels down the middle instead of solid wood.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> I know this isn't much but I took quite a bit a time making sure I had the wobble blade set up right on the Shopsmith, not something you want to get wrong me thinks.
> It cut smooth as butter so will feel better from now on setting it up and using it.
> I sure could have used it on the tracks for the Excavator, would have saved me a day or two.


No on my dewalt table saw I couldn't get the lower clamp to work without getting in closer to the saw blade so cut out the first few teeth and all is good.
I must say these guides work great and at $7 its cheap.
http://www.harborfreight.com/feather-board-with-angle-finder-36697.html

The aluminum tape was there to keep the saw dust out of my face but since I cut off those teeth should take it off.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer build #1*
> 
> Well it's about time to get my Excavator a trailer, so the low boy is on the table.
> Just cutting out some of the main parts.
> 
> I had found a wobble dado blade at a yard sale some time back but my Dewalt can't use it so ordered a 5/8 arbor for the Shopsmith so now I can cut my dados in one pass where it used to take me forever to get er done.
> 
> Back 30 something years ago I used to use a wobble blade on my dewalt radial arm saw but from what I remember it would vibrate a little but on the Shopsmith it really ran smooth as silk but this one has more teeth so that could be the reason.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to make a zero clearance cover for the saw, I thought I had made some and I did but it was for the older model so will be making some covers here shortly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> I'm going off the plans a little and will have dowels down the middle instead of solid wood.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know this isn't much but I took quite a bit a time making sure I had the wobble blade set up right on the Shopsmith, not something you want to get wrong me thinks.
> It cut smooth as butter so will feel better from now on setting it up and using it.
> I sure could have used it on the tracks for the Excavator, would have saved me a day or two.





> *So was this a little "OOPSIE" with the Dado blade? *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - JoeinGa





> No on my dewalt table saw I couldn t get the lower clamp to work without getting in closer to the saw blade so cut out the first few teeth and all is good.
> I must say these guides work great and at $7 its cheap.
> http://www.harborfreight.com/feather-board-with-angle-finder-36697.html
> 
> The aluminum tape was there to keep the saw dust out of my face but since I cut off those teeth should take it off.
> 
> - htl


Joe, While you mishap isn't good, at least with info like that Bruce supplied, the replacement isn't too expensive.. 
Downunder we have a very small range of good woodworking suppliers and little competition in the big box warehouse…. that sort of replacement would cost at least 2.5 times that price here…
When the Aussie Dollar was on par with the US Dollar i purchased a few good items from the USA and even with awfully dear freight I saved 40-60% of the local price when and were it was available….


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## htl

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer build #1*
> 
> Well it's about time to get my Excavator a trailer, so the low boy is on the table.
> Just cutting out some of the main parts.
> 
> I had found a wobble dado blade at a yard sale some time back but my Dewalt can't use it so ordered a 5/8 arbor for the Shopsmith so now I can cut my dados in one pass where it used to take me forever to get er done.
> 
> Back 30 something years ago I used to use a wobble blade on my dewalt radial arm saw but from what I remember it would vibrate a little but on the Shopsmith it really ran smooth as silk but this one has more teeth so that could be the reason.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to make a zero clearance cover for the saw, I thought I had made some and I did but it was for the older model so will be making some covers here shortly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> I'm going off the plans a little and will have dowels down the middle instead of solid wood.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> I know this isn't much but I took quite a bit a time making sure I had the wobble blade set up right on the Shopsmith, not something you want to get wrong me thinks.
> It cut smooth as butter so will feel better from now on setting it up and using it.
> I sure could have used it on the tracks for the Excavator, would have saved me a day or two.


Crowie why the fingers are gone is because the part that fits in the groove at the bottom of the screen was nearly off the table to clear the saw blade and didn't feel safe so I cut off some of the fingers or so the bottom clamp would be farther in the groove.

On a bigger table saw this wouldn't be a problem.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer build #1*
> 
> Well it's about time to get my Excavator a trailer, so the low boy is on the table.
> Just cutting out some of the main parts.
> 
> I had found a wobble dado blade at a yard sale some time back but my Dewalt can't use it so ordered a 5/8 arbor for the Shopsmith so now I can cut my dados in one pass where it used to take me forever to get er done.
> 
> Back 30 something years ago I used to use a wobble blade on my dewalt radial arm saw but from what I remember it would vibrate a little but on the Shopsmith it really ran smooth as silk but this one has more teeth so that could be the reason.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to make a zero clearance cover for the saw, I thought I had made some and I did but it was for the older model so will be making some covers here shortly.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> I'm going off the plans a little and will have dowels down the middle instead of solid wood.
> 
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> 
> 
> I know this isn't much but I took quite a bit a time making sure I had the wobble blade set up right on the Shopsmith, not something you want to get wrong me thinks.
> It cut smooth as butter so will feel better from now on setting it up and using it.
> I sure could have used it on the tracks for the Excavator, would have saved me a day or two.


Here's my home made router table.
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/155314


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer build #1*
> 
> Well it's about time to get my Excavator a trailer, so the low boy is on the table.
> Just cutting out some of the main parts.
> 
> I had found a wobble dado blade at a yard sale some time back but my Dewalt can't use it so ordered a 5/8 arbor for the Shopsmith so now I can cut my dados in one pass where it used to take me forever to get er done.
> 
> Back 30 something years ago I used to use a wobble blade on my dewalt radial arm saw but from what I remember it would vibrate a little but on the Shopsmith it really ran smooth as silk but this one has more teeth so that could be the reason.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to make a zero clearance cover for the saw, I thought I had made some and I did but it was for the older model so will be making some covers here shortly.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> I'm going off the plans a little and will have dowels down the middle instead of solid wood.
> 
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> 
> 
> I know this isn't much but I took quite a bit a time making sure I had the wobble blade set up right on the Shopsmith, not something you want to get wrong me thinks.
> It cut smooth as butter so will feel better from now on setting it up and using it.
> I sure could have used it on the tracks for the Excavator, would have saved me a day or two.





> Downunder we have a very small range of *good woodworking* suppliers…
> 
> - crowie


Hit the nail on the head. Furthermore what exacerbates the issue is that many items are just not available here (in Oz) and many US retailers don't ship Internationally. That's why I have a US address for these rare occasions. May cost an arm and a leg but if the need is there… at least paying these exorbitant costs, I am helping to keep the US taxes down (no guys, no need for thanks)!


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## htl

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer build #1*
> 
> Well it's about time to get my Excavator a trailer, so the low boy is on the table.
> Just cutting out some of the main parts.
> 
> I had found a wobble dado blade at a yard sale some time back but my Dewalt can't use it so ordered a 5/8 arbor for the Shopsmith so now I can cut my dados in one pass where it used to take me forever to get er done.
> 
> Back 30 something years ago I used to use a wobble blade on my dewalt radial arm saw but from what I remember it would vibrate a little but on the Shopsmith it really ran smooth as silk but this one has more teeth so that could be the reason.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to make a zero clearance cover for the saw, I thought I had made some and I did but it was for the older model so will be making some covers here shortly.
> 
> 
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> 
> I'm going off the plans a little and will have dowels down the middle instead of solid wood.
> 
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> 
> 
> I know this isn't much but I took quite a bit a time making sure I had the wobble blade set up right on the Shopsmith, not something you want to get wrong me thinks.
> It cut smooth as butter so will feel better from now on setting it up and using it.
> I sure could have used it on the tracks for the Excavator, would have saved me a day or two.


Ok Ducky my question now is are you as dependent on china as the us is for just about everything or because you can't get it you make your own stuff and would be in better shape if china stopped shiping stuff?

Or are you just paying more for less choose?


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer build #1*
> 
> Well it's about time to get my Excavator a trailer, so the low boy is on the table.
> Just cutting out some of the main parts.
> 
> I had found a wobble dado blade at a yard sale some time back but my Dewalt can't use it so ordered a 5/8 arbor for the Shopsmith so now I can cut my dados in one pass where it used to take me forever to get er done.
> 
> Back 30 something years ago I used to use a wobble blade on my dewalt radial arm saw but from what I remember it would vibrate a little but on the Shopsmith it really ran smooth as silk but this one has more teeth so that could be the reason.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to make a zero clearance cover for the saw, I thought I had made some and I did but it was for the older model so will be making some covers here shortly.
> 
> 
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> 
> I'm going off the plans a little and will have dowels down the middle instead of solid wood.
> 
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> 
> 
> I know this isn't much but I took quite a bit a time making sure I had the wobble blade set up right on the Shopsmith, not something you want to get wrong me thinks.
> It cut smooth as butter so will feel better from now on setting it up and using it.
> I sure could have used it on the tracks for the Excavator, would have saved me a day or two.


It's just about impossible to buy anything that isn't made in China here. Not trying to be politically incorrect but here what isn't made in China, is bought by Chinese and sold back to us.

I have never begrudged paying for quality for just about anything I need, however, I will refuse to buy rubbish just because it is cheap. If it is usable and worthwhile, I'll buy it but I do look at quality rather than price. My problem is that if I can't see it (to buy it) I don't know what I need to make (if that makes sense). Unfortunately I'm not as inventive as many of the woodworking bloggers that I have the pleasure of following.

I would rather forgo that 1/2 dozen casks of vino (that I buy cheap and go for quantity not quality) and spend those extra few shekels on what I feel is good quality even if not necessarily value for money (at least while I can still "afford it" [though getting harder daily as the current environment is not on the side of borderline self-funded retirees especially the ones that retirement was not made by choice]).

If the quality (or availability) is not there I will attempt to fabricate the item myself or even if do I buy the crap, then I will attempt to cannibalise and enhance it.

*One rule I do follow though.* The most precious commodity I still have left and treasure dearly is the time I have remaining on this earth. Consequently I place a minimum of $20 per hour on my time though at times this may be adjusted in either direction depending on what I have on my agenda, though I can't remember going below $15. Using that as a measuring stick (actually I apply this to ALL things), if I don't save my labour cost on any venture I will fork over the shekels asked (commercial items only of course).

I used to have this same attitude about wheels for the T&J models. At $1.40 each for the the bigger ones and lets ignore the specialised ones that the plans call for shop-made, if I could make one in 4.2 minutes than I could justify NOT buying them… HOWEVER, *YOU* and *Dutchy* have screwed me up here (go and self-flagellate)... After seeing the substitute wheels you guys make I now have about 30 pre-fabbed wheels (I bulk bought a while back) that may not see the under-carriage of a T&J model (time will tell).



> Or are you just paying more for less choose?
> 
> - htl


Now to answer what you asked, yes, I find that I am paying more for less choice, however, If I need it unfortunately I have to pay for it. I'm too old to do the time when I get caught for stealing it.

The time will come when "made in China" will no longer be a swear work. I remember the day when we were expected to buy crap stamped made in Japan in the 60's.. Hell, I'd kill for something made in Japan now-a-days… other than Sashimi…


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## htl

*Low Boy Trailer build #2*

Just some progress on the low boy.


















Used my miter saw for all the angled cuts [22 1/2°] but when I got to this point used the drum sander on the Shopsmith to sand where the front assembly and back meet up so everything comes out just right.





































Marked for center to be sure and not miss and then free hand drilled for dowels for a little extra support.





































O!!! I should mention I'm making mine an 8 wheel trailer and all so shortening it from a 17" deck to a 14"er so my excavator will fit just right and so will my Dull Dozer if need be..


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer build #2*
> 
> Just some progress on the low boy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used my miter saw for all the angled cuts [22 1/2°] but when I got to this point used the drum sander on the Shopsmith to sand where the front assembly and back meet up so everything comes out just right.
> 
> 
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> 
> Marked for center to be sure and not miss and then free hand drilled for dowels for a little extra support.
> 
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> 
> O!!! I should mention I'm making mine an 8 wheel trailer and all so shortening it from a 17" deck to a 14"er so my excavator will fit just right and so will my Dull Dozer if need be..


starting to look like a trailer …....... do you plan to leave center open ?


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer build #2*
> 
> Just some progress on the low boy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used my miter saw for all the angled cuts [22 1/2°] but when I got to this point used the drum sander on the Shopsmith to sand where the front assembly and back meet up so everything comes out just right.
> 
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> 
> Marked for center to be sure and not miss and then free hand drilled for dowels for a little extra support.
> 
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> 
> O!!! I should mention I'm making mine an 8 wheel trailer and all so shortening it from a 17" deck to a 14"er so my excavator will fit just right and so will my Dull Dozer if need be..


yes


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer build #2*
> 
> Just some progress on the low boy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used my miter saw for all the angled cuts [22 1/2°] but when I got to this point used the drum sander on the Shopsmith to sand where the front assembly and back meet up so everything comes out just right.
> 
> 
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> Marked for center to be sure and not miss and then free hand drilled for dowels for a little extra support.
> 
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> 
> O!!! I should mention I'm making mine an 8 wheel trailer and all so shortening it from a 17" deck to a 14"er so my excavator will fit just right and so will my Dull Dozer if need be..


OH NEAT I never seen that b4 ….. ok keep on keeping on brother .......LMAO


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer build #2*
> 
> Just some progress on the low boy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used my miter saw for all the angled cuts [22 1/2°] but when I got to this point used the drum sander on the Shopsmith to sand where the front assembly and back meet up so everything comes out just right.
> 
> 
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> 
> Marked for center to be sure and not miss and then free hand drilled for dowels for a little extra support.
> 
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> 
> 
> O!!! I should mention I'm making mine an 8 wheel trailer and all so shortening it from a 17" deck to a 14"er so my excavator will fit just right and so will my Dull Dozer if need be..


Always try to put a little twist to the plans, should have mixed it up with some different woods but have been getting away from that here lately for some unknown reason.


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## BruceBarber

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer build #2*
> 
> Just some progress on the low boy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used my miter saw for all the angled cuts [22 1/2°] but when I got to this point used the drum sander on the Shopsmith to sand where the front assembly and back meet up so everything comes out just right.
> 
> 
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> 
> Marked for center to be sure and not miss and then free hand drilled for dowels for a little extra support.
> 
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> 
> 
> O!!! I should mention I'm making mine an 8 wheel trailer and all so shortening it from a 17" deck to a 14"er so my excavator will fit just right and so will my Dull Dozer if need be..


i did a double low boy trailor with three sets of tires,, i was going to keep the middle open to but the customer said he did not want too ,,,, i might make one for my tow D330×500 Drilling machine …

Great job keep up the GREAT jobs GUYS and GIRLS.


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer build #2*
> 
> Just some progress on the low boy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used my miter saw for all the angled cuts [22 1/2°] but when I got to this point used the drum sander on the Shopsmith to sand where the front assembly and back meet up so everything comes out just right.
> 
> 
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> 
> Marked for center to be sure and not miss and then free hand drilled for dowels for a little extra support.
> 
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> 
> O!!! I should mention I'm making mine an 8 wheel trailer and all so shortening it from a 17" deck to a 14"er so my excavator will fit just right and so will my Dull Dozer if need be..


NICE!


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## htl

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer build #2*
> 
> Just some progress on the low boy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used my miter saw for all the angled cuts [22 1/2°] but when I got to this point used the drum sander on the Shopsmith to sand where the front assembly and back meet up so everything comes out just right.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Marked for center to be sure and not miss and then free hand drilled for dowels for a little extra support.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> O!!! I should mention I'm making mine an 8 wheel trailer and all so shortening it from a 17" deck to a 14"er so my excavator will fit just right and so will my Dull Dozer if need be..


bruce is this it?
Nice trailer!!!


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer build #2*
> 
> Just some progress on the low boy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used my miter saw for all the angled cuts [22 1/2°] but when I got to this point used the drum sander on the Shopsmith to sand where the front assembly and back meet up so everything comes out just right.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Marked for center to be sure and not miss and then free hand drilled for dowels for a little extra support.
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> O!!! I should mention I'm making mine an 8 wheel trailer and all so shortening it from a 17" deck to a 14"er so my excavator will fit just right and so will my Dull Dozer if need be..


LOOKS VERY NICE from what I can see …... my eyes keep getting older


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer build #2*
> 
> Just some progress on the low boy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used my miter saw for all the angled cuts [22 1/2°] but when I got to this point used the drum sander on the Shopsmith to sand where the front assembly and back meet up so everything comes out just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Marked for center to be sure and not miss and then free hand drilled for dowels for a little extra support.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> O!!! I should mention I'm making mine an 8 wheel trailer and all so shortening it from a 17" deck to a 14"er so my excavator will fit just right and so will my Dull Dozer if need be..


I wish I had the patience to do work like this….beautiful, sirs


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer build #2*
> 
> Just some progress on the low boy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used my miter saw for all the angled cuts [22 1/2°] but when I got to this point used the drum sander on the Shopsmith to sand where the front assembly and back meet up so everything comes out just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Marked for center to be sure and not miss and then free hand drilled for dowels for a little extra support.
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> O!!! I should mention I'm making mine an 8 wheel trailer and all so shortening it from a 17" deck to a 14"er so my excavator will fit just right and so will my Dull Dozer if need be..


crowie I really don't have the patience for the small stuff as you may have noticed I'm not into the mirrors and small do dads they really look nice but just not my thing.
I usually have a reason for building a project want to see how something works for this project it was making the groove on the rails.
For the Hummer it was the wheels.
The cars it was the fenders.


----------



## htl

*Low Boy Trailer Getting er Done #3*

Getting close on this one just some fine sanding and add a back bumper with lights, then some finish.
This is a fun build and cool to have something to help connect my different models together.










I'm going to steal the tires off the black car and use them on the trailer they match up with the Mack truck so that works out just right.
I painted my spare set of spoker wheels for the black car so we'll see how that works. lol




























I really like using the dowels as a frame member they are drilled and go in 1/2" so really add to the strength, much more that just a butt joint.










My brake away front end is drilled in to the frame so quite strong, used 3/8 oak dowels for this.









OK I build this to go with the Mack truck but the frame on the Mack is still set up for the drilling rig but will be cutting it down once I'm sure I know what I need.
The back axle isn't glued in just clamped so can move it any way I need to .

So now I just wanted some pictures of the mack and excavator and bulldozer together.
With these I should be able to see any thing that needs changing.



















As I have said earlier I cut the trailer from 17" to 14" on the part that carries a load so my excavator and Bulldozer fit just right.
I also cut out one set of wheels this took another 2 1/2" off the length of the trailer.






















































I hope there's some good pictures at the right angles to help anyone wanting to build the trailer.
Really a fun build I have about 15 hours in this project so far.

Tip 
Something I've been doing lately.
I use gorilla super glue for all my building but there are times when I feel like I need a little extra strength so I've been putting wood glue down the middle of a glue up and super glue around the edges .
This way I get the benefit of the wood glue with the ability to keep moving with the project without having to clamp things up and then watch the glue dry.


----------



## Northwest29

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer Getting er Done #3*
> 
> Getting close on this one just some fine sanding and add a back bumper with lights, then some finish.
> This is a fun build and cool to have something to help connect my different models together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to steal the tires off the black car and use them on the trailer they match up with the Mack truck so that works out just right.
> I painted my spare set of spoker wheels for the black car so we'll see how that works. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like using the dowels as a frame member they are drilled and go in 1/2" so really add to the strength, much more that just a butt joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My brake away front end is drilled in to the frame so quite strong, used 3/8 oak dowels for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK I build this to go with the Mack truck but the frame on the Mack is still set up for the drilling rig but will be cutting it down once I'm sure I know what I need.
> The back axle isn't glued in just clamped so can move it any way I need to .
> 
> So now I just wanted some pictures of the mack and excavator and bulldozer together.
> With these I should be able to see any thing that needs changing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I have said earlier I cut the trailer from 17" to 14" on the part that carries a load so my excavator and Bulldozer fit just right.
> I also cut out one set of wheels this took another 2 1/2" off the length of the trailer.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> I hope there's some good pictures at the right angles to help anyone wanting to build the trailer.
> Really a fun build I have about 15 hours in this project so far.
> 
> Tip
> Something I've been doing lately.
> I use gorilla super glue for all my building but there are times when I feel like I need a little extra strength so I've been putting wood glue down the middle of a glue up and super glue around the edges .
> This way I get the benefit of the wood glue with the ability to keep moving with the project without having to clamp things up and then watch the glue dry.


Looks mighty darn fine! Nice redesign on the trailer and looks natural that way. Thanks for the share.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer Getting er Done #3*
> 
> Getting close on this one just some fine sanding and add a back bumper with lights, then some finish.
> This is a fun build and cool to have something to help connect my different models together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to steal the tires off the black car and use them on the trailer they match up with the Mack truck so that works out just right.
> I painted my spare set of spoker wheels for the black car so we'll see how that works. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like using the dowels as a frame member they are drilled and go in 1/2" so really add to the strength, much more that just a butt joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My brake away front end is drilled in to the frame so quite strong, used 3/8 oak dowels for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK I build this to go with the Mack truck but the frame on the Mack is still set up for the drilling rig but will be cutting it down once I'm sure I know what I need.
> The back axle isn't glued in just clamped so can move it any way I need to .
> 
> So now I just wanted some pictures of the mack and excavator and bulldozer together.
> With these I should be able to see any thing that needs changing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I have said earlier I cut the trailer from 17" to 14" on the part that carries a load so my excavator and Bulldozer fit just right.
> I also cut out one set of wheels this took another 2 1/2" off the length of the trailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope there's some good pictures at the right angles to help anyone wanting to build the trailer.
> Really a fun build I have about 15 hours in this project so far.
> 
> Tip
> Something I've been doing lately.
> I use gorilla super glue for all my building but there are times when I feel like I need a little extra strength so I've been putting wood glue down the middle of a glue up and super glue around the edges .
> This way I get the benefit of the wood glue with the ability to keep moving with the project without having to clamp things up and then watch the glue dry.


what can I say but very nice looking FITS each piece of equipment very nice also …...... I just cant believe your almost done with it already ….....man your speedy Gonzales LMAO GREAT JOB


----------



## bruce317

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer Getting er Done #3*
> 
> Getting close on this one just some fine sanding and add a back bumper with lights, then some finish.
> This is a fun build and cool to have something to help connect my different models together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to steal the tires off the black car and use them on the trailer they match up with the Mack truck so that works out just right.
> I painted my spare set of spoker wheels for the black car so we'll see how that works. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like using the dowels as a frame member they are drilled and go in 1/2" so really add to the strength, much more that just a butt joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My brake away front end is drilled in to the frame so quite strong, used 3/8 oak dowels for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK I build this to go with the Mack truck but the frame on the Mack is still set up for the drilling rig but will be cutting it down once I'm sure I know what I need.
> The back axle isn't glued in just clamped so can move it any way I need to .
> 
> So now I just wanted some pictures of the mack and excavator and bulldozer together.
> With these I should be able to see any thing that needs changing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I have said earlier I cut the trailer from 17" to 14" on the part that carries a load so my excavator and Bulldozer fit just right.
> I also cut out one set of wheels this took another 2 1/2" off the length of the trailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope there's some good pictures at the right angles to help anyone wanting to build the trailer.
> Really a fun build I have about 15 hours in this project so far.
> 
> Tip
> Something I've been doing lately.
> I use gorilla super glue for all my building but there are times when I feel like I need a little extra strength so I've been putting wood glue down the middle of a glue up and super glue around the edges .
> This way I get the benefit of the wood glue with the ability to keep moving with the project without having to clamp things up and then watch the glue dry.


Bruce,
Your fast, good and make the builds your own. Good looking unit.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer Getting er Done #3*
> 
> Getting close on this one just some fine sanding and add a back bumper with lights, then some finish.
> This is a fun build and cool to have something to help connect my different models together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to steal the tires off the black car and use them on the trailer they match up with the Mack truck so that works out just right.
> I painted my spare set of spoker wheels for the black car so we'll see how that works. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like using the dowels as a frame member they are drilled and go in 1/2" so really add to the strength, much more that just a butt joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My brake away front end is drilled in to the frame so quite strong, used 3/8 oak dowels for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK I build this to go with the Mack truck but the frame on the Mack is still set up for the drilling rig but will be cutting it down once I'm sure I know what I need.
> The back axle isn't glued in just clamped so can move it any way I need to .
> 
> So now I just wanted some pictures of the mack and excavator and bulldozer together.
> With these I should be able to see any thing that needs changing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I have said earlier I cut the trailer from 17" to 14" on the part that carries a load so my excavator and Bulldozer fit just right.
> I also cut out one set of wheels this took another 2 1/2" off the length of the trailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope there's some good pictures at the right angles to help anyone wanting to build the trailer.
> Really a fun build I have about 15 hours in this project so far.
> 
> Tip
> Something I've been doing lately.
> I use gorilla super glue for all my building but there are times when I feel like I need a little extra strength so I've been putting wood glue down the middle of a glue up and super glue around the edges .
> This way I get the benefit of the wood glue with the ability to keep moving with the project without having to clamp things up and then watch the glue dry.


This is one of those project that I kept asking myself how did they do that edge, well been there done that and now I know and I like it. LOL!!!
And thanks guys for the kind comments and all your encouragement along the way.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer Getting er Done #3*
> 
> Getting close on this one just some fine sanding and add a back bumper with lights, then some finish.
> This is a fun build and cool to have something to help connect my different models together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to steal the tires off the black car and use them on the trailer they match up with the Mack truck so that works out just right.
> I painted my spare set of spoker wheels for the black car so we'll see how that works. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like using the dowels as a frame member they are drilled and go in 1/2" so really add to the strength, much more that just a butt joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My brake away front end is drilled in to the frame so quite strong, used 3/8 oak dowels for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK I build this to go with the Mack truck but the frame on the Mack is still set up for the drilling rig but will be cutting it down once I'm sure I know what I need.
> The back axle isn't glued in just clamped so can move it any way I need to .
> 
> So now I just wanted some pictures of the mack and excavator and bulldozer together.
> With these I should be able to see any thing that needs changing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I have said earlier I cut the trailer from 17" to 14" on the part that carries a load so my excavator and Bulldozer fit just right.
> I also cut out one set of wheels this took another 2 1/2" off the length of the trailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope there's some good pictures at the right angles to help anyone wanting to build the trailer.
> Really a fun build I have about 15 hours in this project so far.
> 
> Tip
> Something I've been doing lately.
> I use gorilla super glue for all my building but there are times when I feel like I need a little extra strength so I've been putting wood glue down the middle of a glue up and super glue around the edges .
> This way I get the benefit of the wood glue with the ability to keep moving with the project without having to clamp things up and then watch the glue dry.


Bruce, What a top result and as said, so quickly put together….
The excavator and dozer look great on the the lowboy trailer, 
BUT maybe you need two, that's on for each or in my circumstance I'll have to do three, one for each grandson…
Keep up the very good work sir…


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer Getting er Done #3*
> 
> Getting close on this one just some fine sanding and add a back bumper with lights, then some finish.
> This is a fun build and cool to have something to help connect my different models together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to steal the tires off the black car and use them on the trailer they match up with the Mack truck so that works out just right.
> I painted my spare set of spoker wheels for the black car so we'll see how that works. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like using the dowels as a frame member they are drilled and go in 1/2" so really add to the strength, much more that just a butt joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My brake away front end is drilled in to the frame so quite strong, used 3/8 oak dowels for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK I build this to go with the Mack truck but the frame on the Mack is still set up for the drilling rig but will be cutting it down once I'm sure I know what I need.
> The back axle isn't glued in just clamped so can move it any way I need to .
> 
> So now I just wanted some pictures of the mack and excavator and bulldozer together.
> With these I should be able to see any thing that needs changing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I have said earlier I cut the trailer from 17" to 14" on the part that carries a load so my excavator and Bulldozer fit just right.
> I also cut out one set of wheels this took another 2 1/2" off the length of the trailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope there's some good pictures at the right angles to help anyone wanting to build the trailer.
> Really a fun build I have about 15 hours in this project so far.
> 
> Tip
> Something I've been doing lately.
> I use gorilla super glue for all my building but there are times when I feel like I need a little extra strength so I've been putting wood glue down the middle of a glue up and super glue around the edges .
> This way I get the benefit of the wood glue with the ability to keep moving with the project without having to clamp things up and then watch the glue dry.


Very innovative build and greatly exploited by the hitch-hikers. Looks good with the Mack and can't wait for the popping finish.



> .. BUT maybe you need *two*, that s on for each or in my circumstance I'll have to do *three*, one for each grandson…
> 
> - crowie


Now I know why I haven't made *any* of these… *no* grandkids.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer Getting er Done #3*
> 
> Getting close on this one just some fine sanding and add a back bumper with lights, then some finish.
> This is a fun build and cool to have something to help connect my different models together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to steal the tires off the black car and use them on the trailer they match up with the Mack truck so that works out just right.
> I painted my spare set of spoker wheels for the black car so we'll see how that works. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like using the dowels as a frame member they are drilled and go in 1/2" so really add to the strength, much more that just a butt joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My brake away front end is drilled in to the frame so quite strong, used 3/8 oak dowels for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK I build this to go with the Mack truck but the frame on the Mack is still set up for the drilling rig but will be cutting it down once I'm sure I know what I need.
> The back axle isn't glued in just clamped so can move it any way I need to .
> 
> So now I just wanted some pictures of the mack and excavator and bulldozer together.
> With these I should be able to see any thing that needs changing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I have said earlier I cut the trailer from 17" to 14" on the part that carries a load so my excavator and Bulldozer fit just right.
> I also cut out one set of wheels this took another 2 1/2" off the length of the trailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope there's some good pictures at the right angles to help anyone wanting to build the trailer.
> Really a fun build I have about 15 hours in this project so far.
> 
> Tip
> Something I've been doing lately.
> I use gorilla super glue for all my building but there are times when I feel like I need a little extra strength so I've been putting wood glue down the middle of a glue up and super glue around the edges .
> This way I get the benefit of the wood glue with the ability to keep moving with the project without having to clamp things up and then watch the glue dry.


I say let them make their own toys these are mine. LOL


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer Getting er Done #3*
> 
> Getting close on this one just some fine sanding and add a back bumper with lights, then some finish.
> This is a fun build and cool to have something to help connect my different models together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to steal the tires off the black car and use them on the trailer they match up with the Mack truck so that works out just right.
> I painted my spare set of spoker wheels for the black car so we'll see how that works. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like using the dowels as a frame member they are drilled and go in 1/2" so really add to the strength, much more that just a butt joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My brake away front end is drilled in to the frame so quite strong, used 3/8 oak dowels for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK I build this to go with the Mack truck but the frame on the Mack is still set up for the drilling rig but will be cutting it down once I'm sure I know what I need.
> The back axle isn't glued in just clamped so can move it any way I need to .
> 
> So now I just wanted some pictures of the mack and excavator and bulldozer together.
> With these I should be able to see any thing that needs changing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I have said earlier I cut the trailer from 17" to 14" on the part that carries a load so my excavator and Bulldozer fit just right.
> I also cut out one set of wheels this took another 2 1/2" off the length of the trailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope there's some good pictures at the right angles to help anyone wanting to build the trailer.
> Really a fun build I have about 15 hours in this project so far.
> 
> Tip
> Something I've been doing lately.
> I use gorilla super glue for all my building but there are times when I feel like I need a little extra strength so I've been putting wood glue down the middle of a glue up and super glue around the edges .
> This way I get the benefit of the wood glue with the ability to keep moving with the project without having to clamp things up and then watch the glue dry.


Looks like another case of Spamming #4.. Not as good as your 's anyway…

The moderators were quick… quicker than me..


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer Getting er Done #3*
> 
> Getting close on this one just some fine sanding and add a back bumper with lights, then some finish.
> This is a fun build and cool to have something to help connect my different models together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to steal the tires off the black car and use them on the trailer they match up with the Mack truck so that works out just right.
> I painted my spare set of spoker wheels for the black car so we'll see how that works. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like using the dowels as a frame member they are drilled and go in 1/2" so really add to the strength, much more that just a butt joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My brake away front end is drilled in to the frame so quite strong, used 3/8 oak dowels for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK I build this to go with the Mack truck but the frame on the Mack is still set up for the drilling rig but will be cutting it down once I'm sure I know what I need.
> The back axle isn't glued in just clamped so can move it any way I need to .
> 
> So now I just wanted some pictures of the mack and excavator and bulldozer together.
> With these I should be able to see any thing that needs changing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I have said earlier I cut the trailer from 17" to 14" on the part that carries a load so my excavator and Bulldozer fit just right.
> I also cut out one set of wheels this took another 2 1/2" off the length of the trailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope there's some good pictures at the right angles to help anyone wanting to build the trailer.
> Really a fun build I have about 15 hours in this project so far.
> 
> Tip
> Something I've been doing lately.
> I use gorilla super glue for all my building but there are times when I feel like I need a little extra strength so I've been putting wood glue down the middle of a glue up and super glue around the edges .
> This way I get the benefit of the wood glue with the ability to keep moving with the project without having to clamp things up and then watch the glue dry.


You lost me on that one?
Spammers


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer Getting er Done #3*
> 
> Getting close on this one just some fine sanding and add a back bumper with lights, then some finish.
> This is a fun build and cool to have something to help connect my different models together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to steal the tires off the black car and use them on the trailer they match up with the Mack truck so that works out just right.
> I painted my spare set of spoker wheels for the black car so we'll see how that works. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like using the dowels as a frame member they are drilled and go in 1/2" so really add to the strength, much more that just a butt joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My brake away front end is drilled in to the frame so quite strong, used 3/8 oak dowels for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK I build this to go with the Mack truck but the frame on the Mack is still set up for the drilling rig but will be cutting it down once I'm sure I know what I need.
> The back axle isn't glued in just clamped so can move it any way I need to .
> 
> So now I just wanted some pictures of the mack and excavator and bulldozer together.
> With these I should be able to see any thing that needs changing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I have said earlier I cut the trailer from 17" to 14" on the part that carries a load so my excavator and Bulldozer fit just right.
> I also cut out one set of wheels this took another 2 1/2" off the length of the trailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope there's some good pictures at the right angles to help anyone wanting to build the trailer.
> Really a fun build I have about 15 hours in this project so far.
> 
> Tip
> Something I've been doing lately.
> I use gorilla super glue for all my building but there are times when I feel like I need a little extra strength so I've been putting wood glue down the middle of a glue up and super glue around the edges .
> This way I get the benefit of the wood glue with the ability to keep moving with the project without having to clamp things up and then watch the glue dry.





> You lost me on that one?
> Spammers
> 
> - htl


Depends on whether someone "Flags" the post… I may have on your blog when I clicked on the *Flag icon *to see what it does as I thought it was a *sus *post… apparently some spammers get on and start advertising against recent blogs/projects… You'll see the same on Jonesey's crane post (if it hasn't already been deleted [Flagged]). 








The "blogger", no projects or blogs, sent a swag of the same post at the same time (probably some sort of robot). This is what he advertises,


> ---------------------------------
> thomasteds commented on a project:
> ---------------------------------
> 
> 
> Woodworking guide offers anyone of any skill level the ability to build amazing projects. The guide is extra helpful because it offers more detailed explanations, videos and blueprints then your typical woodworker magazine .
> Download over 16,000 WOODWORKING PLANS >> woodworkingplanspro.weebly.com
> 
> ---------------------------------


I believe a similar intrusion happened when someone was talking about leather straps on one of your builds a while back…

I remember *JoeinGa* picked a similar one up, that I somehow got involved with and he reported it to *Cricket*. It went missing and I spent a bit of time and couldn't find it later (it was for that post, in response to JoeinGa mentioning "spamming" that I created the above posted * picture of "Spam" Scrapper* for… [and why waste it now…])...


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer Getting er Done #3*
> 
> Getting close on this one just some fine sanding and add a back bumper with lights, then some finish.
> This is a fun build and cool to have something to help connect my different models together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to steal the tires off the black car and use them on the trailer they match up with the Mack truck so that works out just right.
> I painted my spare set of spoker wheels for the black car so we'll see how that works. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like using the dowels as a frame member they are drilled and go in 1/2" so really add to the strength, much more that just a butt joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My brake away front end is drilled in to the frame so quite strong, used 3/8 oak dowels for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK I build this to go with the Mack truck but the frame on the Mack is still set up for the drilling rig but will be cutting it down once I'm sure I know what I need.
> The back axle isn't glued in just clamped so can move it any way I need to .
> 
> So now I just wanted some pictures of the mack and excavator and bulldozer together.
> With these I should be able to see any thing that needs changing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I have said earlier I cut the trailer from 17" to 14" on the part that carries a load so my excavator and Bulldozer fit just right.
> I also cut out one set of wheels this took another 2 1/2" off the length of the trailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope there's some good pictures at the right angles to help anyone wanting to build the trailer.
> Really a fun build I have about 15 hours in this project so far.
> 
> Tip
> Something I've been doing lately.
> I use gorilla super glue for all my building but there are times when I feel like I need a little extra strength so I've been putting wood glue down the middle of a glue up and super glue around the edges .
> This way I get the benefit of the wood glue with the ability to keep moving with the project without having to clamp things up and then watch the glue dry.


How to keep a Yank busy for days… Write on both sides of a $1 bill.. PTO...


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer Getting er Done #3*
> 
> Getting close on this one just some fine sanding and add a back bumper with lights, then some finish.
> This is a fun build and cool to have something to help connect my different models together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to steal the tires off the black car and use them on the trailer they match up with the Mack truck so that works out just right.
> I painted my spare set of spoker wheels for the black car so we'll see how that works. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like using the dowels as a frame member they are drilled and go in 1/2" so really add to the strength, much more that just a butt joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My brake away front end is drilled in to the frame so quite strong, used 3/8 oak dowels for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK I build this to go with the Mack truck but the frame on the Mack is still set up for the drilling rig but will be cutting it down once I'm sure I know what I need.
> The back axle isn't glued in just clamped so can move it any way I need to .
> 
> So now I just wanted some pictures of the mack and excavator and bulldozer together.
> With these I should be able to see any thing that needs changing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I have said earlier I cut the trailer from 17" to 14" on the part that carries a load so my excavator and Bulldozer fit just right.
> I also cut out one set of wheels this took another 2 1/2" off the length of the trailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> I hope there's some good pictures at the right angles to help anyone wanting to build the trailer.
> Really a fun build I have about 15 hours in this project so far.
> 
> Tip
> Something I've been doing lately.
> I use gorilla super glue for all my building but there are times when I feel like I need a little extra strength so I've been putting wood glue down the middle of a glue up and super glue around the edges .
> This way I get the benefit of the wood glue with the ability to keep moving with the project without having to clamp things up and then watch the glue dry.


Cool they fixed it so fast I missed it.


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer Getting er Done #3*
> 
> Getting close on this one just some fine sanding and add a back bumper with lights, then some finish.
> This is a fun build and cool to have something to help connect my different models together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to steal the tires off the black car and use them on the trailer they match up with the Mack truck so that works out just right.
> I painted my spare set of spoker wheels for the black car so we'll see how that works. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> I really like using the dowels as a frame member they are drilled and go in 1/2" so really add to the strength, much more that just a butt joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My brake away front end is drilled in to the frame so quite strong, used 3/8 oak dowels for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK I build this to go with the Mack truck but the frame on the Mack is still set up for the drilling rig but will be cutting it down once I'm sure I know what I need.
> The back axle isn't glued in just clamped so can move it any way I need to .
> 
> So now I just wanted some pictures of the mack and excavator and bulldozer together.
> With these I should be able to see any thing that needs changing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I have said earlier I cut the trailer from 17" to 14" on the part that carries a load so my excavator and Bulldozer fit just right.
> I also cut out one set of wheels this took another 2 1/2" off the length of the trailer.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope there's some good pictures at the right angles to help anyone wanting to build the trailer.
> Really a fun build I have about 15 hours in this project so far.
> 
> Tip
> Something I've been doing lately.
> I use gorilla super glue for all my building but there are times when I feel like I need a little extra strength so I've been putting wood glue down the middle of a glue up and super glue around the edges .
> This way I get the benefit of the wood glue with the ability to keep moving with the project without having to clamp things up and then watch the glue dry.


good work looks Great


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer Getting er Done #3*
> 
> Getting close on this one just some fine sanding and add a back bumper with lights, then some finish.
> This is a fun build and cool to have something to help connect my different models together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to steal the tires off the black car and use them on the trailer they match up with the Mack truck so that works out just right.
> I painted my spare set of spoker wheels for the black car so we'll see how that works. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like using the dowels as a frame member they are drilled and go in 1/2" so really add to the strength, much more that just a butt joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My brake away front end is drilled in to the frame so quite strong, used 3/8 oak dowels for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK I build this to go with the Mack truck but the frame on the Mack is still set up for the drilling rig but will be cutting it down once I'm sure I know what I need.
> The back axle isn't glued in just clamped so can move it any way I need to .
> 
> So now I just wanted some pictures of the mack and excavator and bulldozer together.
> With these I should be able to see any thing that needs changing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I have said earlier I cut the trailer from 17" to 14" on the part that carries a load so my excavator and Bulldozer fit just right.
> I also cut out one set of wheels this took another 2 1/2" off the length of the trailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope there's some good pictures at the right angles to help anyone wanting to build the trailer.
> Really a fun build I have about 15 hours in this project so far.
> 
> Tip
> Something I've been doing lately.
> I use gorilla super glue for all my building but there are times when I feel like I need a little extra strength so I've been putting wood glue down the middle of a glue up and super glue around the edges .
> This way I get the benefit of the wood glue with the ability to keep moving with the project without having to clamp things up and then watch the glue dry.


Great combination Bruce.


----------



## htl

*Low Boy Trailer build #4*

Well the trailers done just need to make four inside tires to go with the mag wheels.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer build #4*
> 
> Well the trailers done just need to make four inside tires to go with the mag wheels.


very nice …..looks great …......Whats next


> ? still very hard to believe only about what 17 hours


GREAT JOB Bruce


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer build #4*
> 
> Well the trailers done just need to make four inside tires to go with the mag wheels.


Seems like you only started this yesterday. What's your secret with the tail lights… small hole saw? They look good… Noticed you used similar process on hummer, perchance?


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer build #4*
> 
> Well the trailers done just need to make four inside tires to go with the mag wheels.


There is some nice grain in that timber Bruce….


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer build #4*
> 
> Well the trailers done just need to make four inside tires to go with the mag wheels.


Ducky I used what they call a hollow punch, cut out holes in leather.

Put it in the drill press and it burns a really fine clean hole.

http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-hollow-punch-set-3838.html










Plug cutter also work but make a bigger groove.
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-plug-cutter-set-6956.html









Ducky I know you can't get them here but others can might check a shoe repair place for his old set.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer build #4*
> 
> Well the trailers done just need to make four inside tires to go with the mag wheels.


Thx #4, I have a mixed set of some leather plug cutters (used them for "perforating sanding discs"). Never thought of using them. Will file away for next project(s).


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer build #4*
> 
> Well the trailers done just need to make four inside tires to go with the mag wheels.


Got the tools you need right under your nose, need I say more? lol

These are the types of tools to be looking for when at flea markets and such.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer build #4*
> 
> Well the trailers done just need to make four inside tires to go with the mag wheels.


well we don't have hot and spicy spam either …...... so that makes us even …....... LMAO


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer build #4*
> 
> Well the trailers done just need to make four inside tires to go with the mag wheels.


Ducky I went to Harbor freight to get the plug cutters and grabbed the wrong package, they hang right next to each other and man was I upset when I got home and needing to make some walnut plugs had to go back and get the hole plugger kit.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer build #4*
> 
> Well the trailers done just need to make four inside tires to go with the mag wheels.





> ...when at flea markets and such.
> 
> - htl


Churchill, the town where I live, is smaller than a small flea market. The tool shops near me are mainly geared around the typical home handyman and few serious woodworking items. That is why I have so much rubbish (not referring to quality) as the supply is scarce, I stock pile in case I might need it.. Then when I do, I forget I've got it…
As you say "There's a hundred ways to do anything" and I have to decide what I have, what I should have, what I might have and then finally which will do it the easies/best… Of course I pick that tool last… 


> ... needing to make some walnut plugs…
> 
> - htl


You will/should eventually get a lathe (or maybe adapt the SS) and make walnut dowels and slice that up for plugs. That's what I do… and keep forgetting I have a box of plug cutters with the wax still on the cutters.

*PS. *#4, how did I miss it??


> ... four inside tires to go …
> 
> - htl


Hope they're going to be road worth*I*.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer build #4*
> 
> Well the trailers done just need to make four inside tires to go with the mag wheels.


Ducky all they really need is the tread they'll never be seem anywhere else.
Might pay to make some extras while I'm at it.
It really make me happy when I'm building and find that some part has already been made. lol


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer build #4*
> 
> Well the trailers done just need to make four inside tires to go with the mag wheels.





> Ducky I used what they call a hollow punch, cut out holes in leather.
> 
> Put it in the drill press and it burns a really fine clean hole.
> 
> Plug cutter also work but make a bigger groove.
> 
> Ducky I know you can t get them here but others can might check a shoe repair place for his old set.
> 
> - htl


Thank you very much for sharing this.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer build #4*
> 
> Well the trailers done just need to make four inside tires to go with the mag wheels.


I wouldn't be any where near to where I am building these models if it wasn't for this site and all the comments and encouragement I get here.
So thanks all and especially you Dutchy, it feels good to be able to pay back just a little.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Low Boy Trailer build #4*
> 
> Well the trailers done just need to make four inside tires to go with the mag wheels.





> I wouldn t be any where near to where I am building these models if it wasn t for this site and all the comments and encouragement I get here.
> So thanks all and especially you Dutchy, it feels good to be able to pay back just a little.
> 
> - htl


#4, you give as good as you take (if not better)...

As for encouragement… I still think you should apply for a hand model job… at least you don't need to stand…


----------



## htl

*Fat Wheels For The Low Boy Trailer*

Got it in my head to make the center wheels for the low boy.
I needed some 3/4" oak but found some nice 1", so started making the wheels and as I was getting half way though it hit me I was not making the center wheels for the trailer but was making some fat boy tires I had been thinking about making.
So the tires may not fit the trailer but hey I like making tires so???

*NOTE: There's really nothing new here just what I did to make these wheels.*

Here's some tire making pictures, using some different shapes so well look just a tad different trying to get the sides looking a little rounder.

I used the hole saw to drill out the axle hole and this also marks the shape for the band saw.
I could have used the hole saw but will be sanding them round and to size so use the band saw it's faster.









Just showing the axle hole.










Then to the band saw to cut things out.
There's no need to get real close the sander will fix that.



















Then of the the disk sander and the wheel jig.



























Now over to the drill press to drill out the center.
I have some store bought 1 1/2" wheels that I use for the centers and found a hole saw blade that just cuts the perfect hole for them to fit without having to sand them, way cool.


























Now drilling the shape for the mag wheel rims. 1/4" bit


























Now drilling holes for the lug nuts.









I didn't take any pictures of the shaping of the wheels took quite a bit a time figuring the look I want.
Playing with the idea of having the sides rounded just a little but that will be tomorrow's project.

After routing them off to the table saw for some treads.
These are supposed to be for the trailer so a simple tread pattern.
The feather board keeps it from moving sideways and if you look close it also keeps it in place near the center of the blade.
The tire pushes against one tooth of the feather board.









So here's the tires, then off to the black bath.
Is this where black Duckys come from???


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Fat Wheels For The Low Boy Trailer*
> 
> Got it in my head to make the center wheels for the low boy.
> I needed some 3/4" oak but found some nice 1", so started making the wheels and as I was getting half way though it hit me I was not making the center wheels for the trailer but was making some fat boy tires I had been thinking about making.
> So the tires may not fit the trailer but hey I like making tires so???
> 
> *NOTE: There's really nothing new here just what I did to make these wheels.*
> 
> Here's some tire making pictures, using some different shapes so well look just a tad different trying to get the sides looking a little rounder.
> 
> I used the hole saw to drill out the axle hole and this also marks the shape for the band saw.
> I could have used the hole saw but will be sanding them round and to size so use the band saw it's faster.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just showing the axle hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to the band saw to cut things out.
> There's no need to get real close the sander will fix that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then of the the disk sander and the wheel jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the drill press to drill out the center.
> I have some store bought 1 1/2" wheels that I use for the centers and found a hole saw blade that just cuts the perfect hole for them to fit without having to sand them, way cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drilling the shape for the mag wheel rims. 1/4" bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drilling holes for the lug nuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take any pictures of the shaping of the wheels took quite a bit a time figuring the look I want.
> Playing with the idea of having the sides rounded just a little but that will be tomorrow's project.
> 
> After routing them off to the table saw for some treads.
> These are supposed to be for the trailer so a simple tread pattern.
> The feather board keeps it from moving sideways and if you look close it also keeps it in place near the center of the blade.
> The tire pushes against one tooth of the feather board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's the tires, then off to the black bath.
> Is this where black Duckys come from???


What a top tutorial Bruce, THANK YOU…...


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Fat Wheels For The Low Boy Trailer*
> 
> Got it in my head to make the center wheels for the low boy.
> I needed some 3/4" oak but found some nice 1", so started making the wheels and as I was getting half way though it hit me I was not making the center wheels for the trailer but was making some fat boy tires I had been thinking about making.
> So the tires may not fit the trailer but hey I like making tires so???
> 
> *NOTE: There's really nothing new here just what I did to make these wheels.*
> 
> Here's some tire making pictures, using some different shapes so well look just a tad different trying to get the sides looking a little rounder.
> 
> I used the hole saw to drill out the axle hole and this also marks the shape for the band saw.
> I could have used the hole saw but will be sanding them round and to size so use the band saw it's faster.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just showing the axle hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to the band saw to cut things out.
> There's no need to get real close the sander will fix that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then of the the disk sander and the wheel jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the drill press to drill out the center.
> I have some store bought 1 1/2" wheels that I use for the centers and found a hole saw blade that just cuts the perfect hole for them to fit without having to sand them, way cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drilling the shape for the mag wheel rims. 1/4" bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drilling holes for the lug nuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take any pictures of the shaping of the wheels took quite a bit a time figuring the look I want.
> Playing with the idea of having the sides rounded just a little but that will be tomorrow's project.
> 
> After routing them off to the table saw for some treads.
> These are supposed to be for the trailer so a simple tread pattern.
> The feather board keeps it from moving sideways and if you look close it also keeps it in place near the center of the blade.
> The tire pushes against one tooth of the feather board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's the tires, then off to the black bath.
> Is this where black Duckys come from???


very nice tutorial …..... they some very cool mag looking wheels …..... GREAT JOB


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Fat Wheels For The Low Boy Trailer*
> 
> Got it in my head to make the center wheels for the low boy.
> I needed some 3/4" oak but found some nice 1", so started making the wheels and as I was getting half way though it hit me I was not making the center wheels for the trailer but was making some fat boy tires I had been thinking about making.
> So the tires may not fit the trailer but hey I like making tires so???
> 
> *NOTE: There's really nothing new here just what I did to make these wheels.*
> 
> Here's some tire making pictures, using some different shapes so well look just a tad different trying to get the sides looking a little rounder.
> 
> I used the hole saw to drill out the axle hole and this also marks the shape for the band saw.
> I could have used the hole saw but will be sanding them round and to size so use the band saw it's faster.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just showing the axle hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to the band saw to cut things out.
> There's no need to get real close the sander will fix that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then of the the disk sander and the wheel jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the drill press to drill out the center.
> I have some store bought 1 1/2" wheels that I use for the centers and found a hole saw blade that just cuts the perfect hole for them to fit without having to sand them, way cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drilling the shape for the mag wheel rims. 1/4" bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drilling holes for the lug nuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take any pictures of the shaping of the wheels took quite a bit a time figuring the look I want.
> Playing with the idea of having the sides rounded just a little but that will be tomorrow's project.
> 
> After routing them off to the table saw for some treads.
> These are supposed to be for the trailer so a simple tread pattern.
> The feather board keeps it from moving sideways and if you look close it also keeps it in place near the center of the blade.
> The tire pushes against one tooth of the feather board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's the tires, then off to the black bath.
> Is this where black Duckys come from???


Great tute #4.

Nice shot of the SS. Fist time I've seen it in full view.. like the "moving sled". Might consider something like that for my lathe…



> So the tires may not fit the trailer but hey I like making tires so???
> 
> - htl


Why shouldn't you like something you excel at?? (Not detracting from the rest of the build…)









Ingenious way of treading the tyres. Do you free hand rotate or is there a "pivot guide" hidden? 
Is all the action at just one end of the feather board (filed tooth end) and the 2nd wheel used for spacing purposes?

*PS.*


> Is this where black Duckys come from???
> 
> - htl


Yes. As we all know, enonizers are made with vinegar and iron… That's why I drink a lot of vino waiting for it to turn to vinegar and I chew my nails… I was born a paleface…


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Fat Wheels For The Low Boy Trailer*
> 
> Got it in my head to make the center wheels for the low boy.
> I needed some 3/4" oak but found some nice 1", so started making the wheels and as I was getting half way though it hit me I was not making the center wheels for the trailer but was making some fat boy tires I had been thinking about making.
> So the tires may not fit the trailer but hey I like making tires so???
> 
> *NOTE: There's really nothing new here just what I did to make these wheels.*
> 
> Here's some tire making pictures, using some different shapes so well look just a tad different trying to get the sides looking a little rounder.
> 
> I used the hole saw to drill out the axle hole and this also marks the shape for the band saw.
> I could have used the hole saw but will be sanding them round and to size so use the band saw it's faster.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just showing the axle hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to the band saw to cut things out.
> There's no need to get real close the sander will fix that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then of the the disk sander and the wheel jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the drill press to drill out the center.
> I have some store bought 1 1/2" wheels that I use for the centers and found a hole saw blade that just cuts the perfect hole for them to fit without having to sand them, way cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drilling the shape for the mag wheel rims. 1/4" bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drilling holes for the lug nuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take any pictures of the shaping of the wheels took quite a bit a time figuring the look I want.
> Playing with the idea of having the sides rounded just a little but that will be tomorrow's project.
> 
> After routing them off to the table saw for some treads.
> These are supposed to be for the trailer so a simple tread pattern.
> The feather board keeps it from moving sideways and if you look close it also keeps it in place near the center of the blade.
> The tire pushes against one tooth of the feather board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's the tires, then off to the black bath.
> Is this where black Duckys come from???


Sorry the tire closest to us would not be there while cutting the grooves in the tire by the 3m tape.
You can see the line on the fence which shows where the center of the blade is.
I'm rolling the tire with my hands.
I'm putting pressure against the top of the tire and also keeping it against the fence.
*You have to remember* I'm only cutting a 1/8" groove with a very narrow 40 tooth dewalt 71/2" blade.


----------



## hunter71

htl said:


> *Fat Wheels For The Low Boy Trailer*
> 
> Got it in my head to make the center wheels for the low boy.
> I needed some 3/4" oak but found some nice 1", so started making the wheels and as I was getting half way though it hit me I was not making the center wheels for the trailer but was making some fat boy tires I had been thinking about making.
> So the tires may not fit the trailer but hey I like making tires so???
> 
> *NOTE: There's really nothing new here just what I did to make these wheels.*
> 
> Here's some tire making pictures, using some different shapes so well look just a tad different trying to get the sides looking a little rounder.
> 
> I used the hole saw to drill out the axle hole and this also marks the shape for the band saw.
> I could have used the hole saw but will be sanding them round and to size so use the band saw it's faster.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just showing the axle hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to the band saw to cut things out.
> There's no need to get real close the sander will fix that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then of the the disk sander and the wheel jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the drill press to drill out the center.
> I have some store bought 1 1/2" wheels that I use for the centers and found a hole saw blade that just cuts the perfect hole for them to fit without having to sand them, way cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drilling the shape for the mag wheel rims. 1/4" bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drilling holes for the lug nuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take any pictures of the shaping of the wheels took quite a bit a time figuring the look I want.
> Playing with the idea of having the sides rounded just a little but that will be tomorrow's project.
> 
> After routing them off to the table saw for some treads.
> These are supposed to be for the trailer so a simple tread pattern.
> The feather board keeps it from moving sideways and if you look close it also keeps it in place near the center of the blade.
> The tire pushes against one tooth of the feather board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's the tires, then off to the black bath.
> Is this where black Duckys come from???


Only part I don't like is that hand rotation of the tire groves. More great ideas on tire making though.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Fat Wheels For The Low Boy Trailer*
> 
> Got it in my head to make the center wheels for the low boy.
> I needed some 3/4" oak but found some nice 1", so started making the wheels and as I was getting half way though it hit me I was not making the center wheels for the trailer but was making some fat boy tires I had been thinking about making.
> So the tires may not fit the trailer but hey I like making tires so???
> 
> *NOTE: There's really nothing new here just what I did to make these wheels.*
> 
> Here's some tire making pictures, using some different shapes so well look just a tad different trying to get the sides looking a little rounder.
> 
> I used the hole saw to drill out the axle hole and this also marks the shape for the band saw.
> I could have used the hole saw but will be sanding them round and to size so use the band saw it's faster.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just showing the axle hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to the band saw to cut things out.
> There's no need to get real close the sander will fix that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then of the the disk sander and the wheel jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the drill press to drill out the center.
> I have some store bought 1 1/2" wheels that I use for the centers and found a hole saw blade that just cuts the perfect hole for them to fit without having to sand them, way cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drilling the shape for the mag wheel rims. 1/4" bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drilling holes for the lug nuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take any pictures of the shaping of the wheels took quite a bit a time figuring the look I want.
> Playing with the idea of having the sides rounded just a little but that will be tomorrow's project.
> 
> After routing them off to the table saw for some treads.
> These are supposed to be for the trailer so a simple tread pattern.
> The feather board keeps it from moving sideways and if you look close it also keeps it in place near the center of the blade.
> The tire pushes against one tooth of the feather board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's the tires, then off to the black bath.
> Is this where black Duckys come from???


Sorry #4 (Bruce that is not the # of fingers), was gonna agree with h'71, however, carefully evaluating the chance of kickback (which was my initial concern in my previous query) would be probably zero with the 1/8" groove. But I accidentally hit post while I was considering what I typed and as we now know, post can't be un-posted but fortunately revised.
I love the concept but would personally be much more comfortable rotating on a pivot if for no other reason than constant depth/displacement. I again cuss you cause it's a bloody good idea and I will probably use it, but as I've said before, blade change out on my table saw is a pain. A thin kerf blade doesn't make it any easier.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Fat Wheels For The Low Boy Trailer*
> 
> Got it in my head to make the center wheels for the low boy.
> I needed some 3/4" oak but found some nice 1", so started making the wheels and as I was getting half way though it hit me I was not making the center wheels for the trailer but was making some fat boy tires I had been thinking about making.
> So the tires may not fit the trailer but hey I like making tires so???
> 
> *NOTE: There's really nothing new here just what I did to make these wheels.*
> 
> Here's some tire making pictures, using some different shapes so well look just a tad different trying to get the sides looking a little rounder.
> 
> I used the hole saw to drill out the axle hole and this also marks the shape for the band saw.
> I could have used the hole saw but will be sanding them round and to size so use the band saw it's faster.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just showing the axle hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to the band saw to cut things out.
> There's no need to get real close the sander will fix that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then of the the disk sander and the wheel jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the drill press to drill out the center.
> I have some store bought 1 1/2" wheels that I use for the centers and found a hole saw blade that just cuts the perfect hole for them to fit without having to sand them, way cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drilling the shape for the mag wheel rims. 1/4" bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drilling holes for the lug nuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take any pictures of the shaping of the wheels took quite a bit a time figuring the look I want.
> Playing with the idea of having the sides rounded just a little but that will be tomorrow's project.
> 
> After routing them off to the table saw for some treads.
> These are supposed to be for the trailer so a simple tread pattern.
> The feather board keeps it from moving sideways and if you look close it also keeps it in place near the center of the blade.
> The tire pushes against one tooth of the feather board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's the tires, then off to the black bath.
> Is this where black Duckys come from???


The first time I used this idea I clamped a block in front of the wheels but it made it hard to hold the tire and spin it which really was not as comfortable as the way I do it now.
Whats funny to me is I see videos of wood workers routing small tires with their hands and are an inch away from the blade.
I think one other thing to keep in mind is the size of the fence, on my saw it's quite short and thin so much easier to get hold of the part and can put the palm of my hand on the top of the fence..


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Fat Wheels For The Low Boy Trailer*
> 
> Got it in my head to make the center wheels for the low boy.
> I needed some 3/4" oak but found some nice 1", so started making the wheels and as I was getting half way though it hit me I was not making the center wheels for the trailer but was making some fat boy tires I had been thinking about making.
> So the tires may not fit the trailer but hey I like making tires so???
> 
> *NOTE: There's really nothing new here just what I did to make these wheels.*
> 
> Here's some tire making pictures, using some different shapes so well look just a tad different trying to get the sides looking a little rounder.
> 
> I used the hole saw to drill out the axle hole and this also marks the shape for the band saw.
> I could have used the hole saw but will be sanding them round and to size so use the band saw it's faster.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just showing the axle hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to the band saw to cut things out.
> There's no need to get real close the sander will fix that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then of the the disk sander and the wheel jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the drill press to drill out the center.
> I have some store bought 1 1/2" wheels that I use for the centers and found a hole saw blade that just cuts the perfect hole for them to fit without having to sand them, way cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drilling the shape for the mag wheel rims. 1/4" bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drilling holes for the lug nuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take any pictures of the shaping of the wheels took quite a bit a time figuring the look I want.
> Playing with the idea of having the sides rounded just a little but that will be tomorrow's project.
> 
> After routing them off to the table saw for some treads.
> These are supposed to be for the trailer so a simple tread pattern.
> The feather board keeps it from moving sideways and if you look close it also keeps it in place near the center of the blade.
> The tire pushes against one tooth of the feather board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's the tires, then off to the black bath.
> Is this where black Duckys come from???


Here's a video of the tires tread being cut.
The table saw was still set up for it so not a problem.

I was going to set up the tripod but just tried it by hand first and it worked.

http://vid1273.photobucket.com/albums/y409/heretolearn7/MVI_3119_zpsialqq9nr.mp4

As you can see my hand never gets near the saw and the feather board is holding the wheel up against the fence and keeps it from moving forward.

Without flash.









With it.


----------



## SouthavenToyMaker

htl said:


> *Fat Wheels For The Low Boy Trailer*
> 
> Got it in my head to make the center wheels for the low boy.
> I needed some 3/4" oak but found some nice 1", so started making the wheels and as I was getting half way though it hit me I was not making the center wheels for the trailer but was making some fat boy tires I had been thinking about making.
> So the tires may not fit the trailer but hey I like making tires so???
> 
> *NOTE: There's really nothing new here just what I did to make these wheels.*
> 
> Here's some tire making pictures, using some different shapes so well look just a tad different trying to get the sides looking a little rounder.
> 
> I used the hole saw to drill out the axle hole and this also marks the shape for the band saw.
> I could have used the hole saw but will be sanding them round and to size so use the band saw it's faster.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just showing the axle hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to the band saw to cut things out.
> There's no need to get real close the sander will fix that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then of the the disk sander and the wheel jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the drill press to drill out the center.
> I have some store bought 1 1/2" wheels that I use for the centers and found a hole saw blade that just cuts the perfect hole for them to fit without having to sand them, way cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drilling the shape for the mag wheel rims. 1/4" bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drilling holes for the lug nuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take any pictures of the shaping of the wheels took quite a bit a time figuring the look I want.
> Playing with the idea of having the sides rounded just a little but that will be tomorrow's project.
> 
> After routing them off to the table saw for some treads.
> These are supposed to be for the trailer so a simple tread pattern.
> The feather board keeps it from moving sideways and if you look close it also keeps it in place near the center of the blade.
> The tire pushes against one tooth of the feather board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's the tires, then off to the black bath.
> Is this where black Duckys come from???


Wheels look great, they are going to make the trailer stand out. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Fat Wheels For The Low Boy Trailer*
> 
> Got it in my head to make the center wheels for the low boy.
> I needed some 3/4" oak but found some nice 1", so started making the wheels and as I was getting half way though it hit me I was not making the center wheels for the trailer but was making some fat boy tires I had been thinking about making.
> So the tires may not fit the trailer but hey I like making tires so???
> 
> *NOTE: There's really nothing new here just what I did to make these wheels.*
> 
> Here's some tire making pictures, using some different shapes so well look just a tad different trying to get the sides looking a little rounder.
> 
> I used the hole saw to drill out the axle hole and this also marks the shape for the band saw.
> I could have used the hole saw but will be sanding them round and to size so use the band saw it's faster.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just showing the axle hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to the band saw to cut things out.
> There's no need to get real close the sander will fix that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then of the the disk sander and the wheel jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the drill press to drill out the center.
> I have some store bought 1 1/2" wheels that I use for the centers and found a hole saw blade that just cuts the perfect hole for them to fit without having to sand them, way cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drilling the shape for the mag wheel rims. 1/4" bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drilling holes for the lug nuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take any pictures of the shaping of the wheels took quite a bit a time figuring the look I want.
> Playing with the idea of having the sides rounded just a little but that will be tomorrow's project.
> 
> After routing them off to the table saw for some treads.
> These are supposed to be for the trailer so a simple tread pattern.
> The feather board keeps it from moving sideways and if you look close it also keeps it in place near the center of the blade.
> The tire pushes against one tooth of the feather board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's the tires, then off to the black bath.
> Is this where black Duckys come from???





> Here s a video of the tires tread being cut.
> 
> - htl


Thx #4, great demo and certainly clears up any apprehensions I had. You do go to great level to please us Philistines… even the feathered aquatic ones…

*BTW.* I rescind*ed* my thought about danger in the initial post… But camera in one hand and sawing with the other… that is flirting, even for a hand model. Bet your tri-pod had 4 legs… once…


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Fat Wheels For The Low Boy Trailer*
> 
> Got it in my head to make the center wheels for the low boy.
> I needed some 3/4" oak but found some nice 1", so started making the wheels and as I was getting half way though it hit me I was not making the center wheels for the trailer but was making some fat boy tires I had been thinking about making.
> So the tires may not fit the trailer but hey I like making tires so???
> 
> *NOTE: There's really nothing new here just what I did to make these wheels.*
> 
> Here's some tire making pictures, using some different shapes so well look just a tad different trying to get the sides looking a little rounder.
> 
> I used the hole saw to drill out the axle hole and this also marks the shape for the band saw.
> I could have used the hole saw but will be sanding them round and to size so use the band saw it's faster.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just showing the axle hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to the band saw to cut things out.
> There's no need to get real close the sander will fix that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then of the the disk sander and the wheel jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the drill press to drill out the center.
> I have some store bought 1 1/2" wheels that I use for the centers and found a hole saw blade that just cuts the perfect hole for them to fit without having to sand them, way cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drilling the shape for the mag wheel rims. 1/4" bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drilling holes for the lug nuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take any pictures of the shaping of the wheels took quite a bit a time figuring the look I want.
> Playing with the idea of having the sides rounded just a little but that will be tomorrow's project.
> 
> After routing them off to the table saw for some treads.
> These are supposed to be for the trailer so a simple tread pattern.
> The feather board keeps it from moving sideways and if you look close it also keeps it in place near the center of the blade.
> The tire pushes against one tooth of the feather board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's the tires, then off to the black bath.
> Is this where black Duckys come from???


Ducky the wheel had already been cut so there was no cutting, but there's also no room for two hand in this operation.
I should add that I first did this without the feather board and it worked fine just wanted to be sure the tire stays next to the fence for a good tread.
Right after that I made a jig that had an axle running through the wheel but it just made thing extra complicated for this 1/8" cut.

*Look at the video again and you see that I had to force the tire down between the fence and feather board.*


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Fat Wheels For The Low Boy Trailer*
> 
> Got it in my head to make the center wheels for the low boy.
> I needed some 3/4" oak but found some nice 1", so started making the wheels and as I was getting half way though it hit me I was not making the center wheels for the trailer but was making some fat boy tires I had been thinking about making.
> So the tires may not fit the trailer but hey I like making tires so???
> 
> *NOTE: There's really nothing new here just what I did to make these wheels.*
> 
> Here's some tire making pictures, using some different shapes so well look just a tad different trying to get the sides looking a little rounder.
> 
> I used the hole saw to drill out the axle hole and this also marks the shape for the band saw.
> I could have used the hole saw but will be sanding them round and to size so use the band saw it's faster.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just showing the axle hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to the band saw to cut things out.
> There's no need to get real close the sander will fix that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then of the the disk sander and the wheel jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the drill press to drill out the center.
> I have some store bought 1 1/2" wheels that I use for the centers and found a hole saw blade that just cuts the perfect hole for them to fit without having to sand them, way cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drilling the shape for the mag wheel rims. 1/4" bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drilling holes for the lug nuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take any pictures of the shaping of the wheels took quite a bit a time figuring the look I want.
> Playing with the idea of having the sides rounded just a little but that will be tomorrow's project.
> 
> After routing them off to the table saw for some treads.
> These are supposed to be for the trailer so a simple tread pattern.
> The feather board keeps it from moving sideways and if you look close it also keeps it in place near the center of the blade.
> The tire pushes against one tooth of the feather board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's the tires, then off to the black bath.
> Is this where black Duckys come from???


Wheels, wheels and wheels. Always time consumers. Nice black ones!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Fat Wheels For The Low Boy Trailer*
> 
> Got it in my head to make the center wheels for the low boy.
> I needed some 3/4" oak but found some nice 1", so started making the wheels and as I was getting half way though it hit me I was not making the center wheels for the trailer but was making some fat boy tires I had been thinking about making.
> So the tires may not fit the trailer but hey I like making tires so???
> 
> *NOTE: There's really nothing new here just what I did to make these wheels.*
> 
> Here's some tire making pictures, using some different shapes so well look just a tad different trying to get the sides looking a little rounder.
> 
> I used the hole saw to drill out the axle hole and this also marks the shape for the band saw.
> I could have used the hole saw but will be sanding them round and to size so use the band saw it's faster.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just showing the axle hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to the band saw to cut things out.
> There's no need to get real close the sander will fix that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then of the the disk sander and the wheel jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the drill press to drill out the center.
> I have some store bought 1 1/2" wheels that I use for the centers and found a hole saw blade that just cuts the perfect hole for them to fit without having to sand them, way cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drilling the shape for the mag wheel rims. 1/4" bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drilling holes for the lug nuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take any pictures of the shaping of the wheels took quite a bit a time figuring the look I want.
> Playing with the idea of having the sides rounded just a little but that will be tomorrow's project.
> 
> After routing them off to the table saw for some treads.
> These are supposed to be for the trailer so a simple tread pattern.
> The feather board keeps it from moving sideways and if you look close it also keeps it in place near the center of the blade.
> The tire pushes against one tooth of the feather board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's the tires, then off to the black bath.
> Is this where black Duckys come from???


But we love making wheels don't we Dutchy???


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Fat Wheels For The Low Boy Trailer*
> 
> Got it in my head to make the center wheels for the low boy.
> I needed some 3/4" oak but found some nice 1", so started making the wheels and as I was getting half way though it hit me I was not making the center wheels for the trailer but was making some fat boy tires I had been thinking about making.
> So the tires may not fit the trailer but hey I like making tires so???
> 
> *NOTE: There's really nothing new here just what I did to make these wheels.*
> 
> Here's some tire making pictures, using some different shapes so well look just a tad different trying to get the sides looking a little rounder.
> 
> I used the hole saw to drill out the axle hole and this also marks the shape for the band saw.
> I could have used the hole saw but will be sanding them round and to size so use the band saw it's faster.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just showing the axle hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to the band saw to cut things out.
> There's no need to get real close the sander will fix that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then of the the disk sander and the wheel jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the drill press to drill out the center.
> I have some store bought 1 1/2" wheels that I use for the centers and found a hole saw blade that just cuts the perfect hole for them to fit without having to sand them, way cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drilling the shape for the mag wheel rims. 1/4" bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drilling holes for the lug nuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take any pictures of the shaping of the wheels took quite a bit a time figuring the look I want.
> Playing with the idea of having the sides rounded just a little but that will be tomorrow's project.
> 
> After routing them off to the table saw for some treads.
> These are supposed to be for the trailer so a simple tread pattern.
> The feather board keeps it from moving sideways and if you look close it also keeps it in place near the center of the blade.
> The tire pushes against one tooth of the feather board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's the tires, then off to the black bath.
> Is this where black Duckys come from???


I like the tires on James dunebuggy …....... you make some neat wheels Bruce


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Fat Wheels For The Low Boy Trailer*
> 
> Got it in my head to make the center wheels for the low boy.
> I needed some 3/4" oak but found some nice 1", so started making the wheels and as I was getting half way though it hit me I was not making the center wheels for the trailer but was making some fat boy tires I had been thinking about making.
> So the tires may not fit the trailer but hey I like making tires so???
> 
> *NOTE: There's really nothing new here just what I did to make these wheels.*
> 
> Here's some tire making pictures, using some different shapes so well look just a tad different trying to get the sides looking a little rounder.
> 
> I used the hole saw to drill out the axle hole and this also marks the shape for the band saw.
> I could have used the hole saw but will be sanding them round and to size so use the band saw it's faster.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just showing the axle hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to the band saw to cut things out.
> There's no need to get real close the sander will fix that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then of the the disk sander and the wheel jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the drill press to drill out the center.
> I have some store bought 1 1/2" wheels that I use for the centers and found a hole saw blade that just cuts the perfect hole for them to fit without having to sand them, way cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drilling the shape for the mag wheel rims. 1/4" bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drilling holes for the lug nuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take any pictures of the shaping of the wheels took quite a bit a time figuring the look I want.
> Playing with the idea of having the sides rounded just a little but that will be tomorrow's project.
> 
> After routing them off to the table saw for some treads.
> These are supposed to be for the trailer so a simple tread pattern.
> The feather board keeps it from moving sideways and if you look close it also keeps it in place near the center of the blade.
> The tire pushes against one tooth of the feather board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's the tires, then off to the black bath.
> Is this where black Duckys come from???


Hunter give me a link I can't seem to find it.
Did I miss it or what???

Are you talking about this?
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l150/jamest59/buggy%20003_zpsh1xhyvs9.jpg

Them wheels would really throw up some mud and sand. LOL 
Now that is one cute and fun looking build.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Fat Wheels For The Low Boy Trailer*
> 
> Got it in my head to make the center wheels for the low boy.
> I needed some 3/4" oak but found some nice 1", so started making the wheels and as I was getting half way though it hit me I was not making the center wheels for the trailer but was making some fat boy tires I had been thinking about making.
> So the tires may not fit the trailer but hey I like making tires so???
> 
> *NOTE: There's really nothing new here just what I did to make these wheels.*
> 
> Here's some tire making pictures, using some different shapes so well look just a tad different trying to get the sides looking a little rounder.
> 
> I used the hole saw to drill out the axle hole and this also marks the shape for the band saw.
> I could have used the hole saw but will be sanding them round and to size so use the band saw it's faster.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just showing the axle hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to the band saw to cut things out.
> There's no need to get real close the sander will fix that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then of the the disk sander and the wheel jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the drill press to drill out the center.
> I have some store bought 1 1/2" wheels that I use for the centers and found a hole saw blade that just cuts the perfect hole for them to fit without having to sand them, way cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drilling the shape for the mag wheel rims. 1/4" bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drilling holes for the lug nuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take any pictures of the shaping of the wheels took quite a bit a time figuring the look I want.
> Playing with the idea of having the sides rounded just a little but that will be tomorrow's project.
> 
> After routing them off to the table saw for some treads.
> These are supposed to be for the trailer so a simple tread pattern.
> The feather board keeps it from moving sideways and if you look close it also keeps it in place near the center of the blade.
> The tire pushes against one tooth of the feather board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's the tires, then off to the black bath.
> Is this where black Duckys come from???


http://s95.photobucket.com/user/jamest59/media/buggy%20003_zpsh1xhyvs9.jpg.html

here it is I hope


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Fat Wheels For The Low Boy Trailer*
> 
> Got it in my head to make the center wheels for the low boy.
> I needed some 3/4" oak but found some nice 1", so started making the wheels and as I was getting half way though it hit me I was not making the center wheels for the trailer but was making some fat boy tires I had been thinking about making.
> So the tires may not fit the trailer but hey I like making tires so???
> 
> *NOTE: There's really nothing new here just what I did to make these wheels.*
> 
> Here's some tire making pictures, using some different shapes so well look just a tad different trying to get the sides looking a little rounder.
> 
> I used the hole saw to drill out the axle hole and this also marks the shape for the band saw.
> I could have used the hole saw but will be sanding them round and to size so use the band saw it's faster.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just showing the axle hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to the band saw to cut things out.
> There's no need to get real close the sander will fix that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then of the the disk sander and the wheel jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the drill press to drill out the center.
> I have some store bought 1 1/2" wheels that I use for the centers and found a hole saw blade that just cuts the perfect hole for them to fit without having to sand them, way cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drilling the shape for the mag wheel rims. 1/4" bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drilling holes for the lug nuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take any pictures of the shaping of the wheels took quite a bit a time figuring the look I want.
> Playing with the idea of having the sides rounded just a little but that will be tomorrow's project.
> 
> After routing them off to the table saw for some treads.
> These are supposed to be for the trailer so a simple tread pattern.
> The feather board keeps it from moving sideways and if you look close it also keeps it in place near the center of the blade.
> The tire pushes against one tooth of the feather board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's the tires, then off to the black bath.
> Is this where black Duckys come from???


Yep that's it!
I knew I had seen one somewhere but been so many places here lately just couldn't remember where.

I've got where I don't go to the T&J site very often just nothing going on there.
Sad should be the place to be for T&J stuff.

Didn't he make a fork lift with some way cool looking knobby tires?


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Fat Wheels For The Low Boy Trailer*
> 
> Got it in my head to make the center wheels for the low boy.
> I needed some 3/4" oak but found some nice 1", so started making the wheels and as I was getting half way though it hit me I was not making the center wheels for the trailer but was making some fat boy tires I had been thinking about making.
> So the tires may not fit the trailer but hey I like making tires so???
> 
> *NOTE: There's really nothing new here just what I did to make these wheels.*
> 
> Here's some tire making pictures, using some different shapes so well look just a tad different trying to get the sides looking a little rounder.
> 
> I used the hole saw to drill out the axle hole and this also marks the shape for the band saw.
> I could have used the hole saw but will be sanding them round and to size so use the band saw it's faster.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just showing the axle hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to the band saw to cut things out.
> There's no need to get real close the sander will fix that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then of the the disk sander and the wheel jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the drill press to drill out the center.
> I have some store bought 1 1/2" wheels that I use for the centers and found a hole saw blade that just cuts the perfect hole for them to fit without having to sand them, way cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drilling the shape for the mag wheel rims. 1/4" bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drilling holes for the lug nuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take any pictures of the shaping of the wheels took quite a bit a time figuring the look I want.
> Playing with the idea of having the sides rounded just a little but that will be tomorrow's project.
> 
> After routing them off to the table saw for some treads.
> These are supposed to be for the trailer so a simple tread pattern.
> The feather board keeps it from moving sideways and if you look close it also keeps it in place near the center of the blade.
> The tire pushes against one tooth of the feather board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's the tires, then off to the black bath.
> Is this where black Duckys come from???


SORRY I don't remember that


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Fat Wheels For The Low Boy Trailer*
> 
> Got it in my head to make the center wheels for the low boy.
> I needed some 3/4" oak but found some nice 1", so started making the wheels and as I was getting half way though it hit me I was not making the center wheels for the trailer but was making some fat boy tires I had been thinking about making.
> So the tires may not fit the trailer but hey I like making tires so???
> 
> *NOTE: There's really nothing new here just what I did to make these wheels.*
> 
> Here's some tire making pictures, using some different shapes so well look just a tad different trying to get the sides looking a little rounder.
> 
> I used the hole saw to drill out the axle hole and this also marks the shape for the band saw.
> I could have used the hole saw but will be sanding them round and to size so use the band saw it's faster.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just showing the axle hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to the band saw to cut things out.
> There's no need to get real close the sander will fix that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then of the the disk sander and the wheel jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the drill press to drill out the center.
> I have some store bought 1 1/2" wheels that I use for the centers and found a hole saw blade that just cuts the perfect hole for them to fit without having to sand them, way cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drilling the shape for the mag wheel rims. 1/4" bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drilling holes for the lug nuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take any pictures of the shaping of the wheels took quite a bit a time figuring the look I want.
> Playing with the idea of having the sides rounded just a little but that will be tomorrow's project.
> 
> After routing them off to the table saw for some treads.
> These are supposed to be for the trailer so a simple tread pattern.
> The feather board keeps it from moving sideways and if you look close it also keeps it in place near the center of the blade.
> The tire pushes against one tooth of the feather board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's the tires, then off to the black bath.
> Is this where black Duckys come from???





> But we love making wheels don t we Dutchy???
> 
> - htl


Welcome back Dutchy…

Looks like we have the *Monarchs of wheels *talking to each other… All we have to do is determine who is the king and who is the queen… Gents no offence meant, take it as an underarm compliment..


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Fat Wheels For The Low Boy Trailer*
> 
> Got it in my head to make the center wheels for the low boy.
> I needed some 3/4" oak but found some nice 1", so started making the wheels and as I was getting half way though it hit me I was not making the center wheels for the trailer but was making some fat boy tires I had been thinking about making.
> So the tires may not fit the trailer but hey I like making tires so???
> 
> *NOTE: There's really nothing new here just what I did to make these wheels.*
> 
> Here's some tire making pictures, using some different shapes so well look just a tad different trying to get the sides looking a little rounder.
> 
> I used the hole saw to drill out the axle hole and this also marks the shape for the band saw.
> I could have used the hole saw but will be sanding them round and to size so use the band saw it's faster.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just showing the axle hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to the band saw to cut things out.
> There's no need to get real close the sander will fix that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then of the the disk sander and the wheel jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the drill press to drill out the center.
> I have some store bought 1 1/2" wheels that I use for the centers and found a hole saw blade that just cuts the perfect hole for them to fit without having to sand them, way cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drilling the shape for the mag wheel rims. 1/4" bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drilling holes for the lug nuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take any pictures of the shaping of the wheels took quite a bit a time figuring the look I want.
> Playing with the idea of having the sides rounded just a little but that will be tomorrow's project.
> 
> After routing them off to the table saw for some treads.
> These are supposed to be for the trailer so a simple tread pattern.
> The feather board keeps it from moving sideways and if you look close it also keeps it in place near the center of the blade.
> The tire pushes against one tooth of the feather board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's the tires, then off to the black bath.
> Is this where black Duckys come from???


I'm just a good student that wants to learn more.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Fat Wheels For The Low Boy Trailer*
> 
> Got it in my head to make the center wheels for the low boy.
> I needed some 3/4" oak but found some nice 1", so started making the wheels and as I was getting half way though it hit me I was not making the center wheels for the trailer but was making some fat boy tires I had been thinking about making.
> So the tires may not fit the trailer but hey I like making tires so???
> 
> *NOTE: There's really nothing new here just what I did to make these wheels.*
> 
> Here's some tire making pictures, using some different shapes so well look just a tad different trying to get the sides looking a little rounder.
> 
> I used the hole saw to drill out the axle hole and this also marks the shape for the band saw.
> I could have used the hole saw but will be sanding them round and to size so use the band saw it's faster.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just showing the axle hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to the band saw to cut things out.
> There's no need to get real close the sander will fix that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then of the the disk sander and the wheel jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the drill press to drill out the center.
> I have some store bought 1 1/2" wheels that I use for the centers and found a hole saw blade that just cuts the perfect hole for them to fit without having to sand them, way cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drilling the shape for the mag wheel rims. 1/4" bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drilling holes for the lug nuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take any pictures of the shaping of the wheels took quite a bit a time figuring the look I want.
> Playing with the idea of having the sides rounded just a little but that will be tomorrow's project.
> 
> After routing them off to the table saw for some treads.
> These are supposed to be for the trailer so a simple tread pattern.
> The feather board keeps it from moving sideways and if you look close it also keeps it in place near the center of the blade.
> The tire pushes against one tooth of the feather board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's the tires, then off to the black bath.
> Is this where black Duckys come from???





> But we love making wheels don t we Dutchy???
> 
> - htl


Sometimes


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Fat Wheels For The Low Boy Trailer*
> 
> Got it in my head to make the center wheels for the low boy.
> I needed some 3/4" oak but found some nice 1", so started making the wheels and as I was getting half way though it hit me I was not making the center wheels for the trailer but was making some fat boy tires I had been thinking about making.
> So the tires may not fit the trailer but hey I like making tires so???
> 
> *NOTE: There's really nothing new here just what I did to make these wheels.*
> 
> Here's some tire making pictures, using some different shapes so well look just a tad different trying to get the sides looking a little rounder.
> 
> I used the hole saw to drill out the axle hole and this also marks the shape for the band saw.
> I could have used the hole saw but will be sanding them round and to size so use the band saw it's faster.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just showing the axle hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to the band saw to cut things out.
> There's no need to get real close the sander will fix that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then of the the disk sander and the wheel jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the drill press to drill out the center.
> I have some store bought 1 1/2" wheels that I use for the centers and found a hole saw blade that just cuts the perfect hole for them to fit without having to sand them, way cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drilling the shape for the mag wheel rims. 1/4" bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now drilling holes for the lug nuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take any pictures of the shaping of the wheels took quite a bit a time figuring the look I want.
> Playing with the idea of having the sides rounded just a little but that will be tomorrow's project.
> 
> After routing them off to the table saw for some treads.
> These are supposed to be for the trailer so a simple tread pattern.
> The feather board keeps it from moving sideways and if you look close it also keeps it in place near the center of the blade.
> The tire pushes against one tooth of the feather board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's the tires, then off to the black bath.
> Is this where black Duckys come from???


Ya!!! I wouldn't what to do it for a living. LOL


----------



## htl

*diesel locomotive 1.5*

Been liking the looks of the diesel locomotive for a while so it's time to build one.
I have no where to put it lol but just want to build it and won't be happy till I do.

So here's the diesel locomotive plans I found and using for the build.
I blow this up on the printer till the wheels were 1" then I knew the train would be on scale with my other cars.

*An after the build note.*
The train turned out a little small next to the cars I have built so the engine must use bigger trucks[or wheels] so check this out before building so every thing is to scale.
This is ok for my build, the train is 18" now really didn't want it any bigger, so for me it worked out but just something to keep an eye on.



























I would swear I took 10 or more pictures but 5 was all I found when I got ready to blog.

I took a 2×4 and made it the core of the engine and covered it with oak.
I need to just glue up the oak it takes less time and a lot less work, I don't know why I keep doing this.
Could it be cause I'm running out of wood???


















While I was doing this I was also cutting out the base, then on to the motor cover.



































I never had paid any attention to how trains have 5 thousand doors to get at the engine.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 1.5*
> 
> Been liking the looks of the diesel locomotive for a while so it's time to build one.
> I have no where to put it lol but just want to build it and won't be happy till I do.
> 
> So here's the diesel locomotive plans I found and using for the build.
> I blow this up on the printer till the wheels were 1" then I knew the train would be on scale with my other cars.
> 
> *An after the build note.*
> The train turned out a little small next to the cars I have built so the engine must use bigger trucks[or wheels] so check this out before building so every thing is to scale.
> This is ok for my build, the train is 18" now really didn't want it any bigger, so for me it worked out but just something to keep an eye on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would swear I took 10 or more pictures but 5 was all I found when I got ready to blog.
> 
> I took a 2×4 and made it the core of the engine and covered it with oak.
> I need to just glue up the oak it takes less time and a lot less work, I don't know why I keep doing this.
> Could it be cause I'm running out of wood???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I was doing this I was also cutting out the base, then on to the motor cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never had paid any attention to how trains have 5 thousand doors to get at the engine.


oh thought it was only 4 thousand doors …......LMAO @ Bruce 
you make me half sick with your speed


----------



## ralbuck

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 1.5*
> 
> Been liking the looks of the diesel locomotive for a while so it's time to build one.
> I have no where to put it lol but just want to build it and won't be happy till I do.
> 
> So here's the diesel locomotive plans I found and using for the build.
> I blow this up on the printer till the wheels were 1" then I knew the train would be on scale with my other cars.
> 
> *An after the build note.*
> The train turned out a little small next to the cars I have built so the engine must use bigger trucks[or wheels] so check this out before building so every thing is to scale.
> This is ok for my build, the train is 18" now really didn't want it any bigger, so for me it worked out but just something to keep an eye on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would swear I took 10 or more pictures but 5 was all I found when I got ready to blog.
> 
> I took a 2×4 and made it the core of the engine and covered it with oak.
> I need to just glue up the oak it takes less time and a lot less work, I don't know why I keep doing this.
> Could it be cause I'm running out of wood???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I was doing this I was also cutting out the base, then on to the motor cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never had paid any attention to how trains have 5 thousand doors to get at the engine.


Awaiting the finished unit

Looking forward to seeing it.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 1.5*
> 
> Been liking the looks of the diesel locomotive for a while so it's time to build one.
> I have no where to put it lol but just want to build it and won't be happy till I do.
> 
> So here's the diesel locomotive plans I found and using for the build.
> I blow this up on the printer till the wheels were 1" then I knew the train would be on scale with my other cars.
> 
> *An after the build note.*
> The train turned out a little small next to the cars I have built so the engine must use bigger trucks[or wheels] so check this out before building so every thing is to scale.
> This is ok for my build, the train is 18" now really didn't want it any bigger, so for me it worked out but just something to keep an eye on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would swear I took 10 or more pictures but 5 was all I found when I got ready to blog.
> 
> I took a 2×4 and made it the core of the engine and covered it with oak.
> I need to just glue up the oak it takes less time and a lot less work, I don't know why I keep doing this.
> Could it be cause I'm running out of wood???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I was doing this I was also cutting out the base, then on to the motor cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never had paid any attention to how trains have 5 thousand doors to get at the engine.





> oh thought it was only 4 thousand doors …......LMAO @ Bruce
> you make me half sick with your *speed*
> 
> - GR8HUNTER











Gonzales #4 and GR8, I only counted *36*... the other* 4,964* (give or take 1,000) must be on the other side.

Fully appreciate your take on the "plans". The "knobs" are a great touch (thx for the past hint, great execution). Be interested to see when you get down to your *favourite parts*... the little bits, like the two sided windscreen wipers :-(...


----------



## bruce317

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 1.5*
> 
> Been liking the looks of the diesel locomotive for a while so it's time to build one.
> I have no where to put it lol but just want to build it and won't be happy till I do.
> 
> So here's the diesel locomotive plans I found and using for the build.
> I blow this up on the printer till the wheels were 1" then I knew the train would be on scale with my other cars.
> 
> *An after the build note.*
> The train turned out a little small next to the cars I have built so the engine must use bigger trucks[or wheels] so check this out before building so every thing is to scale.
> This is ok for my build, the train is 18" now really didn't want it any bigger, so for me it worked out but just something to keep an eye on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would swear I took 10 or more pictures but 5 was all I found when I got ready to blog.
> 
> I took a 2×4 and made it the core of the engine and covered it with oak.
> I need to just glue up the oak it takes less time and a lot less work, I don't know why I keep doing this.
> Could it be cause I'm running out of wood???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I was doing this I was also cutting out the base, then on to the motor cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never had paid any attention to how trains have 5 thousand doors to get at the engine.


Bruce,
I totally love your train builds. You do make them your own!

Question: what is the space between the rails?


----------



## CO_Goose

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 1.5*
> 
> Been liking the looks of the diesel locomotive for a while so it's time to build one.
> I have no where to put it lol but just want to build it and won't be happy till I do.
> 
> So here's the diesel locomotive plans I found and using for the build.
> I blow this up on the printer till the wheels were 1" then I knew the train would be on scale with my other cars.
> 
> *An after the build note.*
> The train turned out a little small next to the cars I have built so the engine must use bigger trucks[or wheels] so check this out before building so every thing is to scale.
> This is ok for my build, the train is 18" now really didn't want it any bigger, so for me it worked out but just something to keep an eye on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would swear I took 10 or more pictures but 5 was all I found when I got ready to blog.
> 
> I took a 2×4 and made it the core of the engine and covered it with oak.
> I need to just glue up the oak it takes less time and a lot less work, I don't know why I keep doing this.
> Could it be cause I'm running out of wood???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I was doing this I was also cutting out the base, then on to the motor cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never had paid any attention to how trains have 5 thousand doors to get at the engine.


Very Nice. I like the SD40-2 that you picked, one of the great american locomotives from the 70's and 80's that you can still find running today. I always thought that the proportions were just about perfect.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 1.5*
> 
> Been liking the looks of the diesel locomotive for a while so it's time to build one.
> I have no where to put it lol but just want to build it and won't be happy till I do.
> 
> So here's the diesel locomotive plans I found and using for the build.
> I blow this up on the printer till the wheels were 1" then I knew the train would be on scale with my other cars.
> 
> *An after the build note.*
> The train turned out a little small next to the cars I have built so the engine must use bigger trucks[or wheels] so check this out before building so every thing is to scale.
> This is ok for my build, the train is 18" now really didn't want it any bigger, so for me it worked out but just something to keep an eye on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would swear I took 10 or more pictures but 5 was all I found when I got ready to blog.
> 
> I took a 2×4 and made it the core of the engine and covered it with oak.
> I need to just glue up the oak it takes less time and a lot less work, I don't know why I keep doing this.
> Could it be cause I'm running out of wood???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I was doing this I was also cutting out the base, then on to the motor cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never had paid any attention to how trains have 5 thousand doors to get at the engine.


"knobs" are a great touch
There really should be one at the top and bottom but didn't have a small enough circle maker so went with one in the middle.

Question: what is the space between the rails?

Sorry Bruce not sure what between the rails means.
The main body, cab floor and nose aren't glued up yet figured I'd wait till tomorrow with a fresh mind to go any farther with the cabin.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 1.5*
> 
> Been liking the looks of the diesel locomotive for a while so it's time to build one.
> I have no where to put it lol but just want to build it and won't be happy till I do.
> 
> So here's the diesel locomotive plans I found and using for the build.
> I blow this up on the printer till the wheels were 1" then I knew the train would be on scale with my other cars.
> 
> *An after the build note.*
> The train turned out a little small next to the cars I have built so the engine must use bigger trucks[or wheels] so check this out before building so every thing is to scale.
> This is ok for my build, the train is 18" now really didn't want it any bigger, so for me it worked out but just something to keep an eye on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would swear I took 10 or more pictures but 5 was all I found when I got ready to blog.
> 
> I took a 2×4 and made it the core of the engine and covered it with oak.
> I need to just glue up the oak it takes less time and a lot less work, I don't know why I keep doing this.
> Could it be cause I'm running out of wood???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I was doing this I was also cutting out the base, then on to the motor cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never had paid any attention to how trains have 5 thousand doors to get at the engine.


This is another beautiful serie I will follow.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 1.5*
> 
> Been liking the looks of the diesel locomotive for a while so it's time to build one.
> I have no where to put it lol but just want to build it and won't be happy till I do.
> 
> So here's the diesel locomotive plans I found and using for the build.
> I blow this up on the printer till the wheels were 1" then I knew the train would be on scale with my other cars.
> 
> *An after the build note.*
> The train turned out a little small next to the cars I have built so the engine must use bigger trucks[or wheels] so check this out before building so every thing is to scale.
> This is ok for my build, the train is 18" now really didn't want it any bigger, so for me it worked out but just something to keep an eye on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would swear I took 10 or more pictures but 5 was all I found when I got ready to blog.
> 
> I took a 2×4 and made it the core of the engine and covered it with oak.
> I need to just glue up the oak it takes less time and a lot less work, I don't know why I keep doing this.
> Could it be cause I'm running out of wood???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I was doing this I was also cutting out the base, then on to the motor cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never had paid any attention to how trains have 5 thousand doors to get at the engine.


You sure aren't wasting time with yet another built Bruce….looking good sir.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 1.5*
> 
> Been liking the looks of the diesel locomotive for a while so it's time to build one.
> I have no where to put it lol but just want to build it and won't be happy till I do.
> 
> So here's the diesel locomotive plans I found and using for the build.
> I blow this up on the printer till the wheels were 1" then I knew the train would be on scale with my other cars.
> 
> *An after the build note.*
> The train turned out a little small next to the cars I have built so the engine must use bigger trucks[or wheels] so check this out before building so every thing is to scale.
> This is ok for my build, the train is 18" now really didn't want it any bigger, so for me it worked out but just something to keep an eye on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would swear I took 10 or more pictures but 5 was all I found when I got ready to blog.
> 
> I took a 2×4 and made it the core of the engine and covered it with oak.
> I need to just glue up the oak it takes less time and a lot less work, I don't know why I keep doing this.
> Could it be cause I'm running out of wood???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I was doing this I was also cutting out the base, then on to the motor cover.
> 
> 
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> 
> I never had paid any attention to how trains have 5 thousand doors to get at the engine.





> Question: what is the space between *the rails*?
> 
> Sorry Bruce not sure what between *the rails *means.
> ....
> 
> - htl


This question has gone unanswered for too long. Allow the LBD to come to the rescue!

It depends on the *size* of the *door* (s) the whole 5,0000 of them! The "knobs" do not come into the equation. The length of *1* or* 2* whichever is cut first.









Always willing to help…


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 1.5*
> 
> Been liking the looks of the diesel locomotive for a while so it's time to build one.
> I have no where to put it lol but just want to build it and won't be happy till I do.
> 
> So here's the diesel locomotive plans I found and using for the build.
> I blow this up on the printer till the wheels were 1" then I knew the train would be on scale with my other cars.
> 
> *An after the build note.*
> The train turned out a little small next to the cars I have built so the engine must use bigger trucks[or wheels] so check this out before building so every thing is to scale.
> This is ok for my build, the train is 18" now really didn't want it any bigger, so for me it worked out but just something to keep an eye on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would swear I took 10 or more pictures but 5 was all I found when I got ready to blog.
> 
> I took a 2×4 and made it the core of the engine and covered it with oak.
> I need to just glue up the oak it takes less time and a lot less work, I don't know why I keep doing this.
> Could it be cause I'm running out of wood???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I was doing this I was also cutting out the base, then on to the motor cover.
> 
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> 
> I never had paid any attention to how trains have 5 thousand doors to get at the engine.


Dude! I'm totally disappointed! How come you didn't make the *WHEELS *first?

You *LOVE *doing wheels !


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 1.5*
> 
> Been liking the looks of the diesel locomotive for a while so it's time to build one.
> I have no where to put it lol but just want to build it and won't be happy till I do.
> 
> So here's the diesel locomotive plans I found and using for the build.
> I blow this up on the printer till the wheels were 1" then I knew the train would be on scale with my other cars.
> 
> *An after the build note.*
> The train turned out a little small next to the cars I have built so the engine must use bigger trucks[or wheels] so check this out before building so every thing is to scale.
> This is ok for my build, the train is 18" now really didn't want it any bigger, so for me it worked out but just something to keep an eye on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would swear I took 10 or more pictures but 5 was all I found when I got ready to blog.
> 
> I took a 2×4 and made it the core of the engine and covered it with oak.
> I need to just glue up the oak it takes less time and a lot less work, I don't know why I keep doing this.
> Could it be cause I'm running out of wood???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I was doing this I was also cutting out the base, then on to the motor cover.
> 
> 
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> 
> I never had paid any attention to how trains have 5 thousand doors to get at the engine.





> I took a 2×4 and made it the core of the engine and covered it with oak.
> 
> - htl


htl, Nice coverage… didn't want to ask before as I was a bit ashamed of my ignorance. What timber was the 2×4 out of and what type of *oak* did you use.
Here in Aus. I would have used* Tassie oak *for what you used the 2×4 for, hence the confusion.


----------



## bruce317

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 1.5*
> 
> Been liking the looks of the diesel locomotive for a while so it's time to build one.
> I have no where to put it lol but just want to build it and won't be happy till I do.
> 
> So here's the diesel locomotive plans I found and using for the build.
> I blow this up on the printer till the wheels were 1" then I knew the train would be on scale with my other cars.
> 
> *An after the build note.*
> The train turned out a little small next to the cars I have built so the engine must use bigger trucks[or wheels] so check this out before building so every thing is to scale.
> This is ok for my build, the train is 18" now really didn't want it any bigger, so for me it worked out but just something to keep an eye on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would swear I took 10 or more pictures but 5 was all I found when I got ready to blog.
> 
> I took a 2×4 and made it the core of the engine and covered it with oak.
> I need to just glue up the oak it takes less time and a lot less work, I don't know why I keep doing this.
> Could it be cause I'm running out of wood???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I was doing this I was also cutting out the base, then on to the motor cover.
> 
> 
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> 
> I never had paid any attention to how trains have 5 thousand doors to get at the engine.





> Question: what is the space between *the rails*?
> 
> Sorry Bruce not sure what between *the rails *means.
> ....
> 
> - htl
> 
> This question has gone unanswered for too long. Allow the LBD to come to the rescue!
> 
> Always willing to help…
> 
> - LittleBlackDuck


First to LBD. WHAT!! Your answer is so far out there. The men in white coats are coming for you. With that said, you sir are very funny. I enjoy reading your replies. To see what you come up with next. Ducky, you don't disappoint.
Bruce, I mean the distance between your track rails. I ask so I can picture how big your trains are.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 1.5*
> 
> Been liking the looks of the diesel locomotive for a while so it's time to build one.
> I have no where to put it lol but just want to build it and won't be happy till I do.
> 
> So here's the diesel locomotive plans I found and using for the build.
> I blow this up on the printer till the wheels were 1" then I knew the train would be on scale with my other cars.
> 
> *An after the build note.*
> The train turned out a little small next to the cars I have built so the engine must use bigger trucks[or wheels] so check this out before building so every thing is to scale.
> This is ok for my build, the train is 18" now really didn't want it any bigger, so for me it worked out but just something to keep an eye on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would swear I took 10 or more pictures but 5 was all I found when I got ready to blog.
> 
> I took a 2×4 and made it the core of the engine and covered it with oak.
> I need to just glue up the oak it takes less time and a lot less work, I don't know why I keep doing this.
> Could it be cause I'm running out of wood???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I was doing this I was also cutting out the base, then on to the motor cover.
> 
> 
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> 
> I never had paid any attention to how trains have 5 thousand doors to get at the engine.





> ... how big your trains are…
> 
> - bruce317


Probably not as long as this one, but I bet it may have trouble matching the caboose!!!








Sorry htl, just keeping your audience "amused" while you are sleeping…


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 1.5*
> 
> Been liking the looks of the diesel locomotive for a while so it's time to build one.
> I have no where to put it lol but just want to build it and won't be happy till I do.
> 
> So here's the diesel locomotive plans I found and using for the build.
> I blow this up on the printer till the wheels were 1" then I knew the train would be on scale with my other cars.
> 
> *An after the build note.*
> The train turned out a little small next to the cars I have built so the engine must use bigger trucks[or wheels] so check this out before building so every thing is to scale.
> This is ok for my build, the train is 18" now really didn't want it any bigger, so for me it worked out but just something to keep an eye on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would swear I took 10 or more pictures but 5 was all I found when I got ready to blog.
> 
> I took a 2×4 and made it the core of the engine and covered it with oak.
> I need to just glue up the oak it takes less time and a lot less work, I don't know why I keep doing this.
> Could it be cause I'm running out of wood???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I was doing this I was also cutting out the base, then on to the motor cover.
> 
> 
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> 
> I never had paid any attention to how trains have 5 thousand doors to get at the engine.


Dude! I m totally disappointed! How come you didn t make the *WHEELS *first? 
You *LOVE *doing wheels !

*- JoeinGa*
These are some small wheels so not much I can do to them but the out side brace could be done interestingly.
Will be 12 wheels.

*Ducky*
the 2×4's are pine remember what the black car's bonnet looked like, 
I was just used what I had on hand, need to go scrounging and pick up some new lumber but my health isn't going to let that happen in this summer heat.

*Bruce*
Remember my train is shrunk down to 2/3 from what the toys and joys trains are.
Toys and joys has free track plans on their site.

The space between my tracks are 1 7/8" 
Base of train engine is 18" long by 3" wide
The cattle car is 5" tall when sitting on a table, the wheels take up 1" of this height.
The coupling base[shown in picture] is 1/2" thick with a 1/2" thick round base[under it] glued to the train base.









Do a search for diesel train plans to find the ones I used.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 1.5*
> 
> Been liking the looks of the diesel locomotive for a while so it's time to build one.
> I have no where to put it lol but just want to build it and won't be happy till I do.
> 
> So here's the diesel locomotive plans I found and using for the build.
> I blow this up on the printer till the wheels were 1" then I knew the train would be on scale with my other cars.
> 
> *An after the build note.*
> The train turned out a little small next to the cars I have built so the engine must use bigger trucks[or wheels] so check this out before building so every thing is to scale.
> This is ok for my build, the train is 18" now really didn't want it any bigger, so for me it worked out but just something to keep an eye on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would swear I took 10 or more pictures but 5 was all I found when I got ready to blog.
> 
> I took a 2×4 and made it the core of the engine and covered it with oak.
> I need to just glue up the oak it takes less time and a lot less work, I don't know why I keep doing this.
> Could it be cause I'm running out of wood???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I was doing this I was also cutting out the base, then on to the motor cover.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> I never had paid any attention to how trains have 5 thousand doors to get at the engine.


I went and looked for the plans I used and couldn't find them again, 
but under *diesel train drawings* I found some useable ones.
Check this site out.
http://trainiax.net/me55-emd.php
http://www.pacificbelt.com/crc_emd_sd40_cn_ph2b.html

*Here it is*
searched for sd40-2.gif
http://www.the-blueprints.com/blueprints/trains/trains-r-s/25131/view/sd40-2/


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 1.5*
> 
> Been liking the looks of the diesel locomotive for a while so it's time to build one.
> I have no where to put it lol but just want to build it and won't be happy till I do.
> 
> So here's the diesel locomotive plans I found and using for the build.
> I blow this up on the printer till the wheels were 1" then I knew the train would be on scale with my other cars.
> 
> *An after the build note.*
> The train turned out a little small next to the cars I have built so the engine must use bigger trucks[or wheels] so check this out before building so every thing is to scale.
> This is ok for my build, the train is 18" now really didn't want it any bigger, so for me it worked out but just something to keep an eye on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would swear I took 10 or more pictures but 5 was all I found when I got ready to blog.
> 
> I took a 2×4 and made it the core of the engine and covered it with oak.
> I need to just glue up the oak it takes less time and a lot less work, I don't know why I keep doing this.
> Could it be cause I'm running out of wood???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I was doing this I was also cutting out the base, then on to the motor cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never had paid any attention to how trains have 5 thousand doors to get at the engine.


I went and looked for the plans I used and couldn't find them again, 
but under *diesel train drawings* I found some useable ones.
Check this site out.
http://trainiax.net/me55-emd.php

*Found it searching google*, the picture name is sd40-2.gif
http://www.the-blueprints.com/blueprints/trains/trains-r-s/25131/view/sd40-2/
Hope this helpful.


----------



## SouthavenToyMaker

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 1.5*
> 
> Been liking the looks of the diesel locomotive for a while so it's time to build one.
> I have no where to put it lol but just want to build it and won't be happy till I do.
> 
> So here's the diesel locomotive plans I found and using for the build.
> I blow this up on the printer till the wheels were 1" then I knew the train would be on scale with my other cars.
> 
> *An after the build note.*
> The train turned out a little small next to the cars I have built so the engine must use bigger trucks[or wheels] so check this out before building so every thing is to scale.
> This is ok for my build, the train is 18" now really didn't want it any bigger, so for me it worked out but just something to keep an eye on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would swear I took 10 or more pictures but 5 was all I found when I got ready to blog.
> 
> I took a 2×4 and made it the core of the engine and covered it with oak.
> I need to just glue up the oak it takes less time and a lot less work, I don't know why I keep doing this.
> Could it be cause I'm running out of wood???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I was doing this I was also cutting out the base, then on to the motor cover.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> I never had paid any attention to how trains have 5 thousand doors to get at the engine.


So you found blue prints of an actual locamotive and are turning it into a wooden scale replica??? I must say I am very impressed, the talent on the website is amazing. Finally something on the Internet that is usefull. Great work.


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## bruce317

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 1.5*
> 
> Been liking the looks of the diesel locomotive for a while so it's time to build one.
> I have no where to put it lol but just want to build it and won't be happy till I do.
> 
> So here's the diesel locomotive plans I found and using for the build.
> I blow this up on the printer till the wheels were 1" then I knew the train would be on scale with my other cars.
> 
> *An after the build note.*
> The train turned out a little small next to the cars I have built so the engine must use bigger trucks[or wheels] so check this out before building so every thing is to scale.
> This is ok for my build, the train is 18" now really didn't want it any bigger, so for me it worked out but just something to keep an eye on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would swear I took 10 or more pictures but 5 was all I found when I got ready to blog.
> 
> I took a 2×4 and made it the core of the engine and covered it with oak.
> I need to just glue up the oak it takes less time and a lot less work, I don't know why I keep doing this.
> Could it be cause I'm running out of wood???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I was doing this I was also cutting out the base, then on to the motor cover.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> I never had paid any attention to how trains have 5 thousand doors to get at the engine.


Bruce, Thanks for information. I was asking, cause while I'm waiting on doc ok. I've changed Cornerstone design 4-6-2 to about 1/32 scale. The track space is 1 3/4", height from top of rail to roof is 5 1/4".


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## htl

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 1.5*
> 
> Been liking the looks of the diesel locomotive for a while so it's time to build one.
> I have no where to put it lol but just want to build it and won't be happy till I do.
> 
> So here's the diesel locomotive plans I found and using for the build.
> I blow this up on the printer till the wheels were 1" then I knew the train would be on scale with my other cars.
> 
> *An after the build note.*
> The train turned out a little small next to the cars I have built so the engine must use bigger trucks[or wheels] so check this out before building so every thing is to scale.
> This is ok for my build, the train is 18" now really didn't want it any bigger, so for me it worked out but just something to keep an eye on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would swear I took 10 or more pictures but 5 was all I found when I got ready to blog.
> 
> I took a 2×4 and made it the core of the engine and covered it with oak.
> I need to just glue up the oak it takes less time and a lot less work, I don't know why I keep doing this.
> Could it be cause I'm running out of wood???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I was doing this I was also cutting out the base, then on to the motor cover.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> I never had paid any attention to how trains have 5 thousand doors to get at the engine.


*I need to make a correction the base for the wheels is 3/8" and so is the pivot base.*

I was making mine today and found my mistake.


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## johnstoneb

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 1.5*
> 
> Been liking the looks of the diesel locomotive for a while so it's time to build one.
> I have no where to put it lol but just want to build it and won't be happy till I do.
> 
> So here's the diesel locomotive plans I found and using for the build.
> I blow this up on the printer till the wheels were 1" then I knew the train would be on scale with my other cars.
> 
> *An after the build note.*
> The train turned out a little small next to the cars I have built so the engine must use bigger trucks[or wheels] so check this out before building so every thing is to scale.
> This is ok for my build, the train is 18" now really didn't want it any bigger, so for me it worked out but just something to keep an eye on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would swear I took 10 or more pictures but 5 was all I found when I got ready to blog.
> 
> I took a 2×4 and made it the core of the engine and covered it with oak.
> I need to just glue up the oak it takes less time and a lot less work, I don't know why I keep doing this.
> Could it be cause I'm running out of wood???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I was doing this I was also cutting out the base, then on to the motor cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never had paid any attention to how trains have 5 thousand doors to get at the engine.


Thanks for the link to blueprints.com. I have been looking for something like that.
Definitely following this build.


----------



## htl

*diesel locomotive 2.5*

Here's where I left yesterday, need to fill in that big hole.









Took me a couple a tries before I came up with something I could live with.



















After every part was glued on I would sand it with the disk sander to keep everything flush and even.



















The nose and cabin aren't glued up here just checking if it looks right and what needs to be do next.




























The nose, cabin, and engine are all glued up but not to the base.
Going to be working on the hand rails, something I've never done before and not really interested in but it sure will make the train look right.
I may chicken out and not build them, if there's any way around it I would.



















Now on to the wheels.



























Then on to the sanding station that you've all seen before so.




























Once I get the wheels done and the steps made we'll see what's needed.
O! and I can't forget the big fuel tank between the wheels.


----------



## ralbuck

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 2.5*
> 
> Here's where I left yesterday, need to fill in that big hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took me a couple a tries before I came up with something I could live with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After every part was glued on I would sand it with the disk sander to keep everything flush and even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The nose and cabin aren't glued up here just checking if it looks right and what needs to be do next.
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The nose, cabin, and engine are all glued up but not to the base.
> Going to be working on the hand rails, something I've never done before and not really interested in but it sure will make the train look right.
> I may chicken out and not build them, if there's any way around it I would.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> Now on to the wheels.
> 
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> 
> Then on to the sanding station that you've all seen before so.
> 
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> 
> Once I get the wheels done and the steps made we'll see what's needed.
> O! and I can't forget the big fuel tank between the wheels.


Looking great!

Think about using Schist-Kabob- bamboo skewers for the hand rails-might work.

Grocery store-or Dollar Tree item.


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## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 2.5*
> 
> Here's where I left yesterday, need to fill in that big hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took me a couple a tries before I came up with something I could live with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After every part was glued on I would sand it with the disk sander to keep everything flush and even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The nose and cabin aren't glued up here just checking if it looks right and what needs to be do next.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The nose, cabin, and engine are all glued up but not to the base.
> Going to be working on the hand rails, something I've never done before and not really interested in but it sure will make the train look right.
> I may chicken out and not build them, if there's any way around it I would.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Now on to the wheels.
> 
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> 
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> 
> Then on to the sanding station that you've all seen before so.
> 
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> 
> Once I get the wheels done and the steps made we'll see what's needed.
> O! and I can't forget the big fuel tank between the wheels.


I'm not a "train expert" but in looking at the area I marked in red…. 2 things come to mind.

1. Shouldn't the side windows be bigger ( maybe "taller" is better word) because I remember seeing trains go by where the engineer is leaning out the window and I could almost see down to his waist.

2. The small window that faces towards the front of the train. Isnt that supposed to be a door?

Again, not trying to be nit-picking, just brainstorming some ideas at you.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 2.5*
> 
> Here's where I left yesterday, need to fill in that big hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took me a couple a tries before I came up with something I could live with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After every part was glued on I would sand it with the disk sander to keep everything flush and even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The nose and cabin aren't glued up here just checking if it looks right and what needs to be do next.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The nose, cabin, and engine are all glued up but not to the base.
> Going to be working on the hand rails, something I've never done before and not really interested in but it sure will make the train look right.
> I may chicken out and not build them, if there's any way around it I would.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to the wheels.
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Then on to the sanding station that you've all seen before so.
> 
> 
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> 
> Once I get the wheels done and the steps made we'll see what's needed.
> O! and I can't forget the big fuel tank between the wheels.


Coming on well. Next to the "knobs", I do like your "extensive" use of kerfs… adds another dimension of detail.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 2.5*
> 
> Here's where I left yesterday, need to fill in that big hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took me a couple a tries before I came up with something I could live with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After every part was glued on I would sand it with the disk sander to keep everything flush and even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The nose and cabin aren't glued up here just checking if it looks right and what needs to be do next.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The nose, cabin, and engine are all glued up but not to the base.
> Going to be working on the hand rails, something I've never done before and not really interested in but it sure will make the train look right.
> I may chicken out and not build them, if there's any way around it I would.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to the wheels.
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the sanding station that you've all seen before so.
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> Once I get the wheels done and the steps made we'll see what's needed.
> O! and I can't forget the big fuel tank between the wheels.


Hey Joe you ever see a house built where the doors and windows went up before the walls. LOL

And one more question did your mom give you a new red pen to play with. lol

Joe go back and look at the plans, I still need to add steps to get up into the big cabin through the door so he can look out the big window, there's also doors under the windows to be added.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 2.5*
> 
> Here's where I left yesterday, need to fill in that big hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took me a couple a tries before I came up with something I could live with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After every part was glued on I would sand it with the disk sander to keep everything flush and even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The nose and cabin aren't glued up here just checking if it looks right and what needs to be do next.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The nose, cabin, and engine are all glued up but not to the base.
> Going to be working on the hand rails, something I've never done before and not really interested in but it sure will make the train look right.
> I may chicken out and not build them, if there's any way around it I would.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to the wheels.
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Then on to the sanding station that you've all seen before so.
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> Once I get the wheels done and the steps made we'll see what's needed.
> O! and I can't forget the big fuel tank between the wheels.


Ducky those kerfs are supposed to be screens where the air can be sucked in or out for the fans, I think?
Wouldn't be surprised if there isn't radiators in there too, that's it their radiators. LOL.

I want to put the kerfing on the nose as well but will stop myself.


----------



## WhoMe

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 2.5*
> 
> Here's where I left yesterday, need to fill in that big hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took me a couple a tries before I came up with something I could live with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After every part was glued on I would sand it with the disk sander to keep everything flush and even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The nose and cabin aren't glued up here just checking if it looks right and what needs to be do next.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The nose, cabin, and engine are all glued up but not to the base.
> Going to be working on the hand rails, something I've never done before and not really interested in but it sure will make the train look right.
> I may chicken out and not build them, if there's any way around it I would.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to the wheels.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the sanding station that you've all seen before so.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Once I get the wheels done and the steps made we'll see what's needed.
> O! and I can't forget the big fuel tank between the wheels.


So, what diesel are you modeling it after. From the nose, it looks like am older one like a sd-45 and not a more modern one like a current generation ES-44-AC or sd-70.
You going to make a 5 chime air horn for the top too? That will be a challenge.
Looking good so far, can't wait to see it finished.

So, what is the next project. A UP big boy??? Hehe


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 2.5*
> 
> Here's where I left yesterday, need to fill in that big hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took me a couple a tries before I came up with something I could live with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After every part was glued on I would sand it with the disk sander to keep everything flush and even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The nose and cabin aren't glued up here just checking if it looks right and what needs to be do next.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The nose, cabin, and engine are all glued up but not to the base.
> Going to be working on the hand rails, something I've never done before and not really interested in but it sure will make the train look right.
> I may chicken out and not build them, if there's any way around it I would.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the sanding station that you've all seen before so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Once I get the wheels done and the steps made we'll see what's needed.
> O! and I can't forget the big fuel tank between the wheels.


I really know nothing about trains just have always liked the diesel engine in norm marshall's toy book and have never made it despite having his book for 35 years or more, so it was about time.
This will be my last engine may need to build a couple a cars to go with it.

The name on the plan file is sd40-2.gif
So it's probable a sd40. ???

Wouldn't having 5 fans make it a bigger engine than one with just 3????


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 2.5*
> 
> Here's where I left yesterday, need to fill in that big hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took me a couple a tries before I came up with something I could live with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After every part was glued on I would sand it with the disk sander to keep everything flush and even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The nose and cabin aren't glued up here just checking if it looks right and what needs to be do next.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The nose, cabin, and engine are all glued up but not to the base.
> Going to be working on the hand rails, something I've never done before and not really interested in but it sure will make the train look right.
> I may chicken out and not build them, if there's any way around it I would.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the sanding station that you've all seen before so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I get the wheels done and the steps made we'll see what's needed.
> O! and I can't forget the big fuel tank between the wheels.


That's certainly looking the real deal…well done.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 2.5*
> 
> Here's where I left yesterday, need to fill in that big hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took me a couple a tries before I came up with something I could live with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After every part was glued on I would sand it with the disk sander to keep everything flush and even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The nose and cabin aren't glued up here just checking if it looks right and what needs to be do next.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The nose, cabin, and engine are all glued up but not to the base.
> Going to be working on the hand rails, something I've never done before and not really interested in but it sure will make the train look right.
> I may chicken out and not build them, if there's any way around it I would.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the sanding station that you've all seen before so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I get the wheels done and the steps made we'll see what's needed.
> O! and I can't forget the big fuel tank between the wheels.


Your sandpaper is getting dull Bruce, but despide that thanks for sharing your building progress.


----------



## robscastle

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 2.5*
> 
> Here's where I left yesterday, need to fill in that big hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took me a couple a tries before I came up with something I could live with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After every part was glued on I would sand it with the disk sander to keep everything flush and even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The nose and cabin aren't glued up here just checking if it looks right and what needs to be do next.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The nose, cabin, and engine are all glued up but not to the base.
> Going to be working on the hand rails, something I've never done before and not really interested in but it sure will make the train look right.
> I may chicken out and not build them, if there's any way around it I would.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the sanding station that you've all seen before so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I get the wheels done and the steps made we'll see what's needed.
> O! and I can't forget the big fuel tank between the wheels.


Toot Toot !!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 2.5*
> 
> Here's where I left yesterday, need to fill in that big hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took me a couple a tries before I came up with something I could live with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After every part was glued on I would sand it with the disk sander to keep everything flush and even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The nose and cabin aren't glued up here just checking if it looks right and what needs to be do next.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The nose, cabin, and engine are all glued up but not to the base.
> Going to be working on the hand rails, something I've never done before and not really interested in but it sure will make the train look right.
> I may chicken out and not build them, if there's any way around it I would.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the sanding station that you've all seen before so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I get the wheels done and the steps made we'll see what's needed.
> O! and I can't forget the big fuel tank between the wheels.


Ya! that cherry really burns if you don't keep the paper changed.
The paper for the 12" drum sander doesn't seem to hold up long,may need to try some there other than Harbor Freight for better quality.
The problem there is the shipping would probably buy the paper.
So *note taken* change the paper you tight wad. LOL

If I remember right, you get yours for free some how???
It's not fair it's just not fair. LOL


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 2.5*
> 
> Here's where I left yesterday, need to fill in that big hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took me a couple a tries before I came up with something I could live with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After every part was glued on I would sand it with the disk sander to keep everything flush and even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The nose and cabin aren't glued up here just checking if it looks right and what needs to be do next.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The nose, cabin, and engine are all glued up but not to the base.
> Going to be working on the hand rails, something I've never done before and not really interested in but it sure will make the train look right.
> I may chicken out and not build them, if there's any way around it I would.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the sanding station that you've all seen before so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I get the wheels done and the steps made we'll see what's needed.
> O! and I can't forget the big fuel tank between the wheels.





> Ya! that cherry really burns if you don t keep the paper changed.
> 
> - htl


And to think I thought you were surrendering to your dark side and painting it *black*...


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 2.5*
> 
> Here's where I left yesterday, need to fill in that big hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took me a couple a tries before I came up with something I could live with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After every part was glued on I would sand it with the disk sander to keep everything flush and even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The nose and cabin aren't glued up here just checking if it looks right and what needs to be do next.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The nose, cabin, and engine are all glued up but not to the base.
> Going to be working on the hand rails, something I've never done before and not really interested in but it sure will make the train look right.
> I may chicken out and not build them, if there's any way around it I would.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the sanding station that you've all seen before so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I get the wheels done and the steps made we'll see what's needed.
> O! and I can't forget the big fuel tank between the wheels.


Joe is this what your talking about.
See how I still need to make a step up and some doors.
I think you've made a good point but it sure hurts to be shown it.
Why is it we get so sensitive about our builds.


----------



## WhoMe

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 2.5*
> 
> Here's where I left yesterday, need to fill in that big hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took me a couple a tries before I came up with something I could live with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After every part was glued on I would sand it with the disk sander to keep everything flush and even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The nose and cabin aren't glued up here just checking if it looks right and what needs to be do next.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The nose, cabin, and engine are all glued up but not to the base.
> Going to be working on the hand rails, something I've never done before and not really interested in but it sure will make the train look right.
> I may chicken out and not build them, if there's any way around it I would.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the sanding station that you've all seen before so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I get the wheels done and the steps made we'll see what's needed.
> O! and I can't forget the big fuel tank between the wheels.


Thought the good looked like an old sd diesel. 
Cool stuff. Looking forward to the finished product.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 2.5*
> 
> Here's where I left yesterday, need to fill in that big hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took me a couple a tries before I came up with something I could live with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After every part was glued on I would sand it with the disk sander to keep everything flush and even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The nose and cabin aren't glued up here just checking if it looks right and what needs to be do next.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The nose, cabin, and engine are all glued up but not to the base.
> Going to be working on the hand rails, something I've never done before and not really interested in but it sure will make the train look right.
> I may chicken out and not build them, if there's any way around it I would.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the sanding station that you've all seen before so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I get the wheels done and the steps made we'll see what's needed.
> O! and I can't forget the big fuel tank between the wheels.





> Ya! that cherry really burns if you don t keep the paper changed.
> 
> - htl
> 
> And to think I thought you were surrendering to your dark side and painting it *black*...
> 
> - LittleBlackDuck


Ducky that black car showed me you can hardly take pictures of them, that black just doesn't show up and really brings out the dings in a project.
I did think to black out the train but no.
The Ford did turn out ok but just prefer the wood.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 2.5*
> 
> Here's where I left yesterday, need to fill in that big hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took me a couple a tries before I came up with something I could live with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After every part was glued on I would sand it with the disk sander to keep everything flush and even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The nose and cabin aren't glued up here just checking if it looks right and what needs to be do next.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The nose, cabin, and engine are all glued up but not to the base.
> Going to be working on the hand rails, something I've never done before and not really interested in but it sure will make the train look right.
> I may chicken out and not build them, if there's any way around it I would.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the sanding station that you've all seen before so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I get the wheels done and the steps made we'll see what's needed.
> O! and I can't forget the big fuel tank between the wheels.





> If I remember right, you get yours for free some how???
> 
> - htl


*Only the size 1200×2700mm (47"x106") and grit 80.*



> It s not fair it s just not fair. LOL
> 
> - htl


*You're right it's not fair and I'm glad you can still laugh about it.*


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 2.5*
> 
> Here's where I left yesterday, need to fill in that big hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took me a couple a tries before I came up with something I could live with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After every part was glued on I would sand it with the disk sander to keep everything flush and even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The nose and cabin aren't glued up here just checking if it looks right and what needs to be do next.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The nose, cabin, and engine are all glued up but not to the base.
> Going to be working on the hand rails, something I've never done before and not really interested in but it sure will make the train look right.
> I may chicken out and not build them, if there's any way around it I would.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the sanding station that you've all seen before so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I get the wheels done and the steps made we'll see what's needed.
> O! and I can't forget the big fuel tank between the wheels.





> If I remember right, you get yours for free some how???
> 
> - htl
> 
> *Only the size 1200×2700mm (47"x106") and grit 80.*
> 
> It s not fair it s just not fair. LOL
> 
> - htl
> 
> *You re right it s not fair and I m glad you can still laugh about it.*
> 
> - Dutchy


I have to pay for mine… but then again once it wears out I just turn it over and use the other side. It might not cut too well but it lasts a bit longer.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 2.5*
> 
> Here's where I left yesterday, need to fill in that big hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took me a couple a tries before I came up with something I could live with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After every part was glued on I would sand it with the disk sander to keep everything flush and even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The nose and cabin aren't glued up here just checking if it looks right and what needs to be do next.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The nose, cabin, and engine are all glued up but not to the base.
> Going to be working on the hand rails, something I've never done before and not really interested in but it sure will make the train look right.
> I may chicken out and not build them, if there's any way around it I would.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the sanding station that you've all seen before so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I get the wheels done and the steps made we'll see what's needed.
> O! and I can't forget the big fuel tank between the wheels.





> I have to pay for mine… but then again once it wears out I just turn it over and use the other side. It might not cut too well but it lasts a bit longer.
> 
> - LittleBlackDuck


Now it's clear to me why you don't make as much models as Bruce #4 does.


----------



## helluvawreck

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 2.5*
> 
> Here's where I left yesterday, need to fill in that big hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took me a couple a tries before I came up with something I could live with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After every part was glued on I would sand it with the disk sander to keep everything flush and even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The nose and cabin aren't glued up here just checking if it looks right and what needs to be do next.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The nose, cabin, and engine are all glued up but not to the base.
> Going to be working on the hand rails, something I've never done before and not really interested in but it sure will make the train look right.
> I may chicken out and not build them, if there's any way around it I would.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the sanding station that you've all seen before so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I get the wheels done and the steps made we'll see what's needed.
> O! and I can't forget the big fuel tank between the wheels.


This will be a beautiful model. I lov the craftsmanship and detail that you put into your work. You are very meticulous.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 2.5*
> 
> Here's where I left yesterday, need to fill in that big hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took me a couple a tries before I came up with something I could live with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After every part was glued on I would sand it with the disk sander to keep everything flush and even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The nose and cabin aren't glued up here just checking if it looks right and what needs to be do next.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The nose, cabin, and engine are all glued up but not to the base.
> Going to be working on the hand rails, something I've never done before and not really interested in but it sure will make the train look right.
> I may chicken out and not build them, if there's any way around it I would.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the sanding station that you've all seen before so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I get the wheels done and the steps made we'll see what's needed.
> O! and I can't forget the big fuel tank between the wheels.





> I have to pay for mine… but then again once it wears out I just turn it over and use the other side. It might not cut too well but it lasts a bit longer.
> 
> - LittleBlackDuck
> 
> *Now it s clear to me why you don t make as much models as Bruce #4 does.
> *
> 
> - Dutchy


Not quite true… I have built hundreds of models… But unlike *Bruce #4* (aka *htl*), I don't recycle my *timber*, I recycle my *models*.. After all, they already have them, so why *re-invent *the wheel. That is why I only have *one model *at any one time.

That's the *real reason *why you might see a *MRAP Cougar machine gun *on my *golf buggy*.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 2.5*
> 
> Here's where I left yesterday, need to fill in that big hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took me a couple a tries before I came up with something I could live with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After every part was glued on I would sand it with the disk sander to keep everything flush and even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The nose and cabin aren't glued up here just checking if it looks right and what needs to be do next.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> The nose, cabin, and engine are all glued up but not to the base.
> Going to be working on the hand rails, something I've never done before and not really interested in but it sure will make the train look right.
> I may chicken out and not build them, if there's any way around it I would.
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> Now on to the wheels.
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> Then on to the sanding station that you've all seen before so.
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> Once I get the wheels done and the steps made we'll see what's needed.
> O! and I can't forget the big fuel tank between the wheels.


Not quite true… I have built hundreds of models… But unlike Bruce #4 (aka htl), I don't recycle my timber, I recycle my models.. After all, they already have them, so why re-invent the wheel. That is why I only have one model at any one time.

I've been thinking about that myself ducky.
Running out of room for my models so may just save the good parts for other builds.
Your so smart ducky, how did you get so smart?


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 2.5*
> 
> Here's where I left yesterday, need to fill in that big hole.
> 
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> Took me a couple a tries before I came up with something I could live with.
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> After every part was glued on I would sand it with the disk sander to keep everything flush and even.
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> The nose and cabin aren't glued up here just checking if it looks right and what needs to be do next.
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> 
> The nose, cabin, and engine are all glued up but not to the base.
> Going to be working on the hand rails, something I've never done before and not really interested in but it sure will make the train look right.
> I may chicken out and not build them, if there's any way around it I would.
> 
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> Now on to the wheels.
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> Then on to the sanding station that you've all seen before so.
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> Once I get the wheels done and the steps made we'll see what's needed.
> O! and I can't forget the big fuel tank between the wheels.





> ... how did you get so smart?
> 
> - htl


Got it from the missus. She always says I'm a *smarty pants* and I thought that if my pants were smart, *the wearer *must be *brilliant*...


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## WhoMe

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 2.5*
> 
> Here's where I left yesterday, need to fill in that big hole.
> 
> 
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> 
> Took me a couple a tries before I came up with something I could live with.
> 
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> After every part was glued on I would sand it with the disk sander to keep everything flush and even.
> 
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> The nose and cabin aren't glued up here just checking if it looks right and what needs to be do next.
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> 
> The nose, cabin, and engine are all glued up but not to the base.
> Going to be working on the hand rails, something I've never done before and not really interested in but it sure will make the train look right.
> I may chicken out and not build them, if there's any way around it I would.
> 
> 
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> Now on to the wheels.
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> Then on to the sanding station that you've all seen before so.
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> Once I get the wheels done and the steps made we'll see what's needed.
> O! and I can't forget the big fuel tank between the wheels.





> ... how did you get so smart?
> 
> - htl
> 
> Got it from the missus. She always says I m a *smarty pants* and I thought that if my pants were smart, *the wearer *must be *brilliant*...
> 
> - LittleBlackDuck


That is way too funny.


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## htl

*diesel locomotive 4*

As I've noted before this is a project I had my eye on making some thirty years ago and just now getting around to building it.

So here's the last few pictures, I don't know why but couldn't think to stop and take more.



























I used the miter saw to cut the steps, need to use this instead of gluing the parts together much easier and faster, and I like faster.



























I really didn't want to put the hand rails on, it's always these last parts that get me paranoid that I'll bugger it up and I came really close but got er done in the end.

Here's a teaser for tomorrow.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 4*
> 
> As I've noted before this is a project I had my eye on making some thirty years ago and just now getting around to building it.
> 
> So here's the last few pictures, I don't know why but couldn't think to stop and take more.
> 
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> 
> I used the miter saw to cut the steps, need to use this instead of gluing the parts together much easier and faster, and I like faster.
> 
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> 
> I really didn't want to put the hand rails on, it's always these last parts that get me paranoid that I'll bugger it up and I came really close but got er done in the end.
> 
> Here's a teaser for tomorrow.


Coming on great, really taking shape… A character of it's own (hmmm?)...

Don't know whether it's the vino, but if you close one eye, squint the other and hop on one leg with your right hand in your left pocket, picture #5 resembles a short eared *beagle*... Could help in naming it perhaps when finished.








Ouch.. just got a "moon-slap" on the back of the head from the missus…



> ... it s always these last parts that get me paranoid …
> 
> - htl


#4, Hope we don't have to got through the *TRACK* saga again!... Without the tracks, forget about the *beagle* and call it a short *snake*.


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## htl

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 4*
> 
> As I've noted before this is a project I had my eye on making some thirty years ago and just now getting around to building it.
> 
> So here's the last few pictures, I don't know why but couldn't think to stop and take more.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> I used the miter saw to cut the steps, need to use this instead of gluing the parts together much easier and faster, and I like faster.
> 
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> 
> I really didn't want to put the hand rails on, it's always these last parts that get me paranoid that I'll bugger it up and I came really close but got er done in the end.
> 
> Here's a teaser for tomorrow.


Thank you Missus Ducky for straightening this feller out.
Sometimes his imagination gets the better of him and he's a little too far away for us to slap back to sanity.


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 4*
> 
> As I've noted before this is a project I had my eye on making some thirty years ago and just now getting around to building it.
> 
> So here's the last few pictures, I don't know why but couldn't think to stop and take more.
> 
> 
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> 
> I used the miter saw to cut the steps, need to use this instead of gluing the parts together much easier and faster, and I like faster.
> 
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> 
> I really didn't want to put the hand rails on, it's always these last parts that get me paranoid that I'll bugger it up and I came really close but got er done in the end.
> 
> Here's a teaser for tomorrow.


Looking good keep up the good work.


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## htl

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 4*
> 
> As I've noted before this is a project I had my eye on making some thirty years ago and just now getting around to building it.
> 
> So here's the last few pictures, I don't know why but couldn't think to stop and take more.
> 
> 
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> 
> I used the miter saw to cut the steps, need to use this instead of gluing the parts together much easier and faster, and I like faster.
> 
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> I really didn't want to put the hand rails on, it's always these last parts that get me paranoid that I'll bugger it up and I came really close but got er done in the end.
> 
> Here's a teaser for tomorrow.


Thanks oldrivers, I'd thank Ducky but I don't want him to get the big head, plus I think he was making fun of my train so no thanks for him.. LOL


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 4*
> 
> As I've noted before this is a project I had my eye on making some thirty years ago and just now getting around to building it.
> 
> So here's the last few pictures, I don't know why but couldn't think to stop and take more.
> 
> 
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> 
> I used the miter saw to cut the steps, need to use this instead of gluing the parts together much easier and faster, and I like faster.
> 
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> I really didn't want to put the hand rails on, it's always these last parts that get me paranoid that I'll bugger it up and I came really close but got er done in the end.
> 
> Here's a teaser for tomorrow.





> ... but I don t want him to get the big head, ...
> LOL
> 
> - htl


Is this North Alabama vengeance? You'll know what I mean, if you know what I mean!

*PS. *Thanks… The missus gave me another slap, just to keep you guys happy and said you're welcome.


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 4*
> 
> As I've noted before this is a project I had my eye on making some thirty years ago and just now getting around to building it.
> 
> So here's the last few pictures, I don't know why but couldn't think to stop and take more.
> 
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> 
> I used the miter saw to cut the steps, need to use this instead of gluing the parts together much easier and faster, and I like faster.
> 
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> I really didn't want to put the hand rails on, it's always these last parts that get me paranoid that I'll bugger it up and I came really close but got er done in the end.
> 
> Here's a teaser for tomorrow.


Again build in a short time (however 30 years in mind).

I'm waiting for tomorrow.


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## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 4*
> 
> As I've noted before this is a project I had my eye on making some thirty years ago and just now getting around to building it.
> 
> So here's the last few pictures, I don't know why but couldn't think to stop and take more.
> 
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> 
> I used the miter saw to cut the steps, need to use this instead of gluing the parts together much easier and faster, and I like faster.
> 
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> I really didn't want to put the hand rails on, it's always these last parts that get me paranoid that I'll bugger it up and I came really close but got er done in the end.
> 
> Here's a teaser for tomorrow.


And *NOW *it's beginning to actually *LOOK *like a train ! Good going so far.


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## htl

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 4*
> 
> As I've noted before this is a project I had my eye on making some thirty years ago and just now getting around to building it.
> 
> So here's the last few pictures, I don't know why but couldn't think to stop and take more.
> 
> 
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> 
> I used the miter saw to cut the steps, need to use this instead of gluing the parts together much easier and faster, and I like faster.
> 
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> I really didn't want to put the hand rails on, it's always these last parts that get me paranoid that I'll bugger it up and I came really close but got er done in the end.
> 
> Here's a teaser for tomorrow.


Here is the project posting. http://lumberjocks.com/projects/260834

Need some on the tracks shots to keep Ducky happy. LOL


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## htl

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 4*
> 
> As I've noted before this is a project I had my eye on making some thirty years ago and just now getting around to building it.
> 
> So here's the last few pictures, I don't know why but couldn't think to stop and take more.
> 
> 
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> 
> I used the miter saw to cut the steps, need to use this instead of gluing the parts together much easier and faster, and I like faster.
> 
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> I really didn't want to put the hand rails on, it's always these last parts that get me paranoid that I'll bugger it up and I came really close but got er done in the end.
> 
> Here's a teaser for tomorrow.


I just love the lines of this train.
It was a fun simple build, everything being square.
I should note one thing, on all my train cars I used the wheels at 1" for my base to figure the sizes of everything else but the engine looks a bit small to the other cars so should have done some *checking to see if the engine on a sd40 has bigger wheels [trucks I think they're called] than the cars.*
It's not really a problem cause I really didn't want it any bigger but just something to keep in mind if and when you build one.


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## htl

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 4*
> 
> As I've noted before this is a project I had my eye on making some thirty years ago and just now getting around to building it.
> 
> So here's the last few pictures, I don't know why but couldn't think to stop and take more.
> 
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> 
> I used the miter saw to cut the steps, need to use this instead of gluing the parts together much easier and faster, and I like faster.
> 
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> I really didn't want to put the hand rails on, it's always these last parts that get me paranoid that I'll bugger it up and I came really close but got er done in the end.
> 
> Here's a teaser for tomorrow.


Dutchy asked a question on the project page.
""*Bruce I'm glad you made a rail on it and now I'm curious how you glued the rail parts and with glue you used and what measure the dowels are*.""

Dutchy I found some 1/16" dowels [ at Lowes which helps you a whole bunch I'm sure],
always before they were a white white wood but there were some darker ones mixed in thank you very much.
I marked the base[motor was not glued on yet], then used the fence on the shopsmith to keep the holes lined up for drilling and set the depth so they wouldn't go through the bottom but all most. 
Drilled the holes with a tight fit so had to tap them to go all the way in, this helped them to stand up straight.
Used gorilla super glue in the blue top and just dripped it into the hole and tapped it home.
I held a small board against the post to check if they were straight up, then let harden.
With a board set flat on the base just a hair shorter than the posts took the belt sander acrossed the board and post to get them all the same height.
This all was done on the base without the engine being glued on there.
I then cut a dowel to length and gluing half the posts, stuck the top rail on let get hard then bent the rail slightly and put glue on the tops of the rest and held in place for a minute or so.

One thing I noticed using the darker danish oil I could see just a little of where the stain in the oil didn't stain the wood, not bad but next time I think I will use the natural color oil first then use the darker danish oil on all other coats.
This will help hide the few glue places that show up.
I do like the way the stain brings out the grain in the oak but when I did the ford car and stained it natural then with the dark danish it still filler the grain but maybe not quite as much.
Testing would be a good idea first I would think.

I hope this was helpful.


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 4*
> 
> As I've noted before this is a project I had my eye on making some thirty years ago and just now getting around to building it.
> 
> So here's the last few pictures, I don't know why but couldn't think to stop and take more.
> 
> 
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> 
> I used the miter saw to cut the steps, need to use this instead of gluing the parts together much easier and faster, and I like faster.
> 
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> 
> I really didn't want to put the hand rails on, it's always these last parts that get me paranoid that I'll bugger it up and I came really close but got er done in the end.
> 
> Here's a teaser for tomorrow.


Yes immensely useful. There's a hundred ways to do anything. And you did it differently than I do. Even I could understand your story. Thanks for taking time to write it so extensive.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 4*
> 
> As I've noted before this is a project I had my eye on making some thirty years ago and just now getting around to building it.
> 
> So here's the last few pictures, I don't know why but couldn't think to stop and take more.
> 
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> 
> I used the miter saw to cut the steps, need to use this instead of gluing the parts together much easier and faster, and I like faster.
> 
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> I really didn't want to put the hand rails on, it's always these last parts that get me paranoid that I'll bugger it up and I came really close but got er done in the end.
> 
> Here's a teaser for tomorrow.


Darn #4, You know I HATE reading… Why didn't you leave the small parts OFF. Then I wouldn't have had to read your extensive and detailed explanation… It's 7:00am here and now I need to go back to bed and rest.


> Need some *on the tracks *shots to keep Ducky happy. LOL
> 
> - htl


Thx* htl*, I'm learning how to spell *compromise*....


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## htl

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 4*
> 
> As I've noted before this is a project I had my eye on making some thirty years ago and just now getting around to building it.
> 
> So here's the last few pictures, I don't know why but couldn't think to stop and take more.
> 
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> 
> I used the miter saw to cut the steps, need to use this instead of gluing the parts together much easier and faster, and I like faster.
> 
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> 
> I really didn't want to put the hand rails on, it's always these last parts that get me paranoid that I'll bugger it up and I came really close but got er done in the end.
> 
> Here's a teaser for tomorrow.


Sorry ducky!!!
Not been taking enough pictures here lately to do a decent how2 and the handrail would have been a good one with just a few pictures telling the story, 
but to tell the truth it was one hair raising experience for me and almost messed up the whole project so was to interested in getting it right and hiding my buggers to take pictures..
I just do not like adding the little stuff, just to easy to put the ugly to it.


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## htl

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 4*
> 
> As I've noted before this is a project I had my eye on making some thirty years ago and just now getting around to building it.
> 
> So here's the last few pictures, I don't know why but couldn't think to stop and take more.
> 
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> 
> I used the miter saw to cut the steps, need to use this instead of gluing the parts together much easier and faster, and I like faster.
> 
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> I really didn't want to put the hand rails on, it's always these last parts that get me paranoid that I'll bugger it up and I came really close but got er done in the end.
> 
> Here's a teaser for tomorrow.


*Dutchy please take note!!!*

Ducky just brought to my attention that those are 1/8 rails not 1/16 as I said two posts up, SORRY!!!
I'd change the post but it's set in concrete now.
Why couldn't Ducky have brought it to my attention sooner *it's all his fault.*


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 4*
> 
> As I've noted before this is a project I had my eye on making some thirty years ago and just now getting around to building it.
> 
> So here's the last few pictures, I don't know why but couldn't think to stop and take more.
> 
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> 
> I used the miter saw to cut the steps, need to use this instead of gluing the parts together much easier and faster, and I like faster.
> 
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> 
> I really didn't want to put the hand rails on, it's always these last parts that get me paranoid that I'll bugger it up and I came really close but got er done in the end.
> 
> Here's a teaser for tomorrow.





> Not been taking enough pictures here lately to do a decent how2 ….
> 
> - htl


You should stop whingeing… You do more than most to explain what you do and keep us informed…



> I just do not like adding the little stuff, just to easy to put the ugly to it.
> 
> - htl


I don't like chocolate either… but I keep eating it… What's that got to do with little stuff… nothing… but you always manage when you get off your rrrs to do them and if you bugger it up its only you that knows. If you don't paint red arrows on your mistakes you don't have to sand them off.

Unfortunately, *for you*, it does finish the models off and with the effort you put in why cut corners….

After all when you buy something, how often *don't* you take the change? What's that got to do with this topic… who knows… other than you take the change to complete the transaction… and the small parts complete the build.

Just call me that Chinese philoshopher "*Confused*".


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 4*
> 
> As I've noted before this is a project I had my eye on making some thirty years ago and just now getting around to building it.
> 
> So here's the last few pictures, I don't know why but couldn't think to stop and take more.
> 
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> I used the miter saw to cut the steps, need to use this instead of gluing the parts together much easier and faster, and I like faster.
> 
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> I really didn't want to put the hand rails on, it's always these last parts that get me paranoid that I'll bugger it up and I came really close but got er done in the end.
> 
> Here's a teaser for tomorrow.


#4, At least you saved Dutchy a boat trip to Lowes…


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## crowie

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 4*
> 
> As I've noted before this is a project I had my eye on making some thirty years ago and just now getting around to building it.
> 
> So here's the last few pictures, I don't know why but couldn't think to stop and take more.
> 
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> I used the miter saw to cut the steps, need to use this instead of gluing the parts together much easier and faster, and I like faster.
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> I really didn't want to put the hand rails on, it's always these last parts that get me paranoid that I'll bugger it up and I came really close but got er done in the end.
> 
> Here's a teaser for tomorrow.


The train looks fantastic Bruce,....

We can only get 4mm [3/16"] dowel in the big warehouse…


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 4*
> 
> As I've noted before this is a project I had my eye on making some thirty years ago and just now getting around to building it.
> 
> So here's the last few pictures, I don't know why but couldn't think to stop and take more.
> 
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> I used the miter saw to cut the steps, need to use this instead of gluing the parts together much easier and faster, and I like faster.
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> I really didn't want to put the hand rails on, it's always these last parts that get me paranoid that I'll bugger it up and I came really close but got er done in the end.
> 
> Here's a teaser for tomorrow.





> Why couldn t Ducky have brought it to my attention sooner *it s all his fault.*
> 
> - htl


#4, Told you I hate reading… I missed this sentence. I profusely apologise and now running off to self flagellate…, after…



> We can only get 4mm [3/16"] dowel in the big warehouse…
> 
> - crowie


Here down south our 4mm must have shrunk… I believe Bunnings sell 3mm and if they don't I just cut my 4mm, 1mm shorter.


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## htl

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 4*
> 
> As I've noted before this is a project I had my eye on making some thirty years ago and just now getting around to building it.
> 
> So here's the last few pictures, I don't know why but couldn't think to stop and take more.
> 
> 
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> I used the miter saw to cut the steps, need to use this instead of gluing the parts together much easier and faster, and I like faster.
> 
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> I really didn't want to put the hand rails on, it's always these last parts that get me paranoid that I'll bugger it up and I came really close but got er done in the end.
> 
> Here's a teaser for tomorrow.


No problem Ducky I'm sure we got to dutchy in time. LOL
Just glad you noticed it, would hate anyone searching for the wrong dowels.
But I have seem and someone mentioned those small bamboo curtains can be cut up for very small dowels.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 4*
> 
> As I've noted before this is a project I had my eye on making some thirty years ago and just now getting around to building it.
> 
> So here's the last few pictures, I don't know why but couldn't think to stop and take more.
> 
> 
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> I used the miter saw to cut the steps, need to use this instead of gluing the parts together much easier and faster, and I like faster.
> 
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> I really didn't want to put the hand rails on, it's always these last parts that get me paranoid that I'll bugger it up and I came really close but got er done in the end.
> 
> Here's a teaser for tomorrow.





> No problem Ducky I m sure we got to dutchy in time. LOL
> 
> - htl


If we didn't, he'd probably manage to carve a 1/4 sized model of the Eifel Tower during transit. Hate to think what he'd do on the trip back.


> But I have seem and someone mentioned those small bamboo curtains can be cut up for very small dowels.
> 
> - htl


Never tried those, however, was looking at such when searching for payload for my logger.

Speaking in bamboo, I have found that bamboo skewers can "substitute" for small dowels.

At least here in Oz., if you go to a "quality supermarket" (used loosely as they are few and far between), you can get reasonably toleranced 3mm skewers and in our $2 shops (probably called $2.25 shops in imperial American), the cheap Chinese grades can be as narrow as 1.9mm to about 2.5mm (the cheaper the thinner it is which for once can be a blessing, but uniformity is not). The good thing is you can get a reasonable length (300mm or 11 51/64"... see how stupid imperial measurements are) but they'd probably suffer the fate of your "spotless" tooth picks ( if only my teeth, or more correctly tooth, resisted stain that well).


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## htl

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 4*
> 
> As I've noted before this is a project I had my eye on making some thirty years ago and just now getting around to building it.
> 
> So here's the last few pictures, I don't know why but couldn't think to stop and take more.
> 
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> I used the miter saw to cut the steps, need to use this instead of gluing the parts together much easier and faster, and I like faster.
> 
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> I really didn't want to put the hand rails on, it's always these last parts that get me paranoid that I'll bugger it up and I came really close but got er done in the end.
> 
> Here's a teaser for tomorrow.


LOL!!! Some of the stuff you come up with.:-]


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 4*
> 
> As I've noted before this is a project I had my eye on making some thirty years ago and just now getting around to building it.
> 
> So here's the last few pictures, I don't know why but couldn't think to stop and take more.
> 
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> I used the miter saw to cut the steps, need to use this instead of gluing the parts together much easier and faster, and I like faster.
> 
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> I really didn't want to put the hand rails on, it's always these last parts that get me paranoid that I'll bugger it up and I came really close but got er done in the end.
> 
> Here's a teaser for tomorrow.


#4 If you can LOL about it and take it *squarely* on the chin… or is it on that *squarely* chin "* ] *" ), I've served my purpose.


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## bj383ss

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 4*
> 
> As I've noted before this is a project I had my eye on making some thirty years ago and just now getting around to building it.
> 
> So here's the last few pictures, I don't know why but couldn't think to stop and take more.
> 
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> I used the miter saw to cut the steps, need to use this instead of gluing the parts together much easier and faster, and I like faster.
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> I really didn't want to put the hand rails on, it's always these last parts that get me paranoid that I'll bugger it up and I came really close but got er done in the end.
> 
> Here's a teaser for tomorrow.


What a fantastic Loco. And it scratch built to boot. Very impressive. If I wasn't so immensely deep in my 64' I would love to have a go at one of these.

Bret


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## htl

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 4*
> 
> As I've noted before this is a project I had my eye on making some thirty years ago and just now getting around to building it.
> 
> So here's the last few pictures, I don't know why but couldn't think to stop and take more.
> 
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> I used the miter saw to cut the steps, need to use this instead of gluing the parts together much easier and faster, and I like faster.
> 
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> I really didn't want to put the hand rails on, it's always these last parts that get me paranoid that I'll bugger it up and I came really close but got er done in the end.
> 
> Here's a teaser for tomorrow.


bj383 I'm looking at your rockets for a build would be so much fun and a chance to get back on the lathe.


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 4*
> 
> As I've noted before this is a project I had my eye on making some thirty years ago and just now getting around to building it.
> 
> So here's the last few pictures, I don't know why but couldn't think to stop and take more.
> 
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> I used the miter saw to cut the steps, need to use this instead of gluing the parts together much easier and faster, and I like faster.
> 
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> I really didn't want to put the hand rails on, it's always these last parts that get me paranoid that I'll bugger it up and I came really close but got er done in the end.
> 
> Here's a teaser for tomorrow.





> *Dutchy please take note!!!*
> 
> Ducky just brought to my attention that those are 1/8 rails not 1/16 as I said two posts up, SORRY!!!
> I d change the post but it s set in concrete now.
> Why couldn t Ducky have brought it to my attention sooner *it s all his fault.*
> 
> - htl


Bruce I made a mistake. When you talked about 1/16 I thought that this must be 3.2 mm. Now I understand that my calculation was wrong but my thoughts where right  
I agree with Ducky that the imperial measerment system is SUPER….............annoying.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 4*
> 
> As I've noted before this is a project I had my eye on making some thirty years ago and just now getting around to building it.
> 
> So here's the last few pictures, I don't know why but couldn't think to stop and take more.
> 
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> I used the miter saw to cut the steps, need to use this instead of gluing the parts together much easier and faster, and I like faster.
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> I really didn't want to put the hand rails on, it's always these last parts that get me paranoid that I'll bugger it up and I came really close but got er done in the end.
> 
> Here's a teaser for tomorrow.





> Bruce I made a mistake. *Sorry #4… Yanke boo-boo…
> *
> ... imperial measerment system is SUPER….............annoying.
> 
> - Dutchy


For once we have a *consensus of nations*…* American *(should be at the bottom of this list due to complicity), *Netherland*isch (or better known as *Dutch*isch) as the independent observer with their finger in the (not the pie… wait for it)... and the good old *Aussie*isch as the rationale behind any humanitarian reformation… 
*
Imperial measurements* should be *banned, verboten, black listed, de-mathematicalised*… Where's the CIA, FBI. I recon *Donald* (and I don't mean* Duck*) has his finger in the pie… If in doubt, vote *Metric* at the next election.. Sorry Hilli.


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## htl

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 4*
> 
> As I've noted before this is a project I had my eye on making some thirty years ago and just now getting around to building it.
> 
> So here's the last few pictures, I don't know why but couldn't think to stop and take more.
> 
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> I used the miter saw to cut the steps, need to use this instead of gluing the parts together much easier and faster, and I like faster.
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> I really didn't want to put the hand rails on, it's always these last parts that get me paranoid that I'll bugger it up and I came really close but got er done in the end.
> 
> Here's a teaser for tomorrow.


I think it would be clever if this site[or even Google] had a measurement converter handy at all times being this is such a international site.
Would be cool if the* spell checker *when it finds a measurement would adjust and show both measurements, how handy would that be?
Couldn't be that hard to add a little bit a code for it.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *diesel locomotive 4*
> 
> As I've noted before this is a project I had my eye on making some thirty years ago and just now getting around to building it.
> 
> So here's the last few pictures, I don't know why but couldn't think to stop and take more.
> 
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> I used the miter saw to cut the steps, need to use this instead of gluing the parts together much easier and faster, and I like faster.
> 
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> I really didn't want to put the hand rails on, it's always these last parts that get me paranoid that I'll bugger it up and I came really close but got er done in the end.
> 
> Here's a teaser for tomorrow.


#4, Being an ex-programmer (sorry correction… super Programmer with an oversized right big toe), allow me to take the next 2 years (in line with Dutchy's explication of wheel-ology creation) to work on a solution..

Tic..Tic..

Early revelation… I've fumbled across an acceptable interpretation to this elusive conundrum. At Bunnings, Traralgon (Lowes eat your heart out) you can pick up one of these problem solvers (please ignore the picture of Adonis in the background). Just double sided tape it across your computer screen (or super-glue for a permanent solution) and all your lengths will be what you bragged about in your teens.









It is not a Yanke or Aussie prejudiced machinery (made in… poorly translated by katakana characters, sorry *Xi Jinping*) and can even display numbers in Dutch.

As for the spell checker, my missus gives lessons on how to "moon-slap" your hubby when he stuffs up with his typographic "expertise".

Why oversized toe? I type quicker… Why Big toe? I like to brag. Why right toe? Don't ask, I have my political preferences!

Why post? I'm Insane!!!


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## htl

*railway breakdown crane #1 *

Had a lot a fun building the diesel train so thought I would play with a work car to go with my working engine.
So the railway breakdown crane looks kind a interesting so we'll see how this turns out.
This is another scratch build from a couple a pictures.









I wanted that same look on the side like the low boy trailer so set up the shopsmith and dadoed out the sides of the base.
But before I could do that I made a new Zero Clearance Table Saw Insert for the dado I just didn't like the standard insert that comes with the saw it's just fine for large boards but the narrow stuff I cut needs to be zero clearance not 1/4 clearance on each side..


















So here the start to my crane.





































































Now I need to sit back and figure how I need to do the cables.
Don't think there's going to be much detail here just playing around with this one..


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *railway breakdown crane #1 *
> 
> Had a lot a fun building the diesel train so thought I would play with a work car to go with my working engine.
> So the railway breakdown crane looks kind a interesting so we'll see how this turns out.
> This is another scratch build from a couple a pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted that same look on the side like the low boy trailer so set up the shopsmith and dadoed out the sides of the base.
> But before I could do that I made a new Zero Clearance Table Saw Insert for the dado I just didn't like the standard insert that comes with the saw it's just fine for large boards but the narrow stuff I cut needs to be zero clearance not 1/4 clearance on each side..
> 
> 
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> So here the start to my crane.
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> Now I need to sit back and figure how I need to do the cables.
> Don't think there's going to be much detail here just playing around with this one..


Looking GOOD!

I really like seeing others also do a scratch builds from a few pictures!


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *railway breakdown crane #1 *
> 
> Had a lot a fun building the diesel train so thought I would play with a work car to go with my working engine.
> So the railway breakdown crane looks kind a interesting so we'll see how this turns out.
> This is another scratch build from a couple a pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted that same look on the side like the low boy trailer so set up the shopsmith and dadoed out the sides of the base.
> But before I could do that I made a new Zero Clearance Table Saw Insert for the dado I just didn't like the standard insert that comes with the saw it's just fine for large boards but the narrow stuff I cut needs to be zero clearance not 1/4 clearance on each side..
> 
> 
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> So here the start to my crane.
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> Now I need to sit back and figure how I need to do the cables.
> Don't think there's going to be much detail here just playing around with this one..


Enjoying again.

Is this a good idea for the cable?

Or:
 
this one.


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## bruce317

htl said:


> *railway breakdown crane #1 *
> 
> Had a lot a fun building the diesel train so thought I would play with a work car to go with my working engine.
> So the railway breakdown crane looks kind a interesting so we'll see how this turns out.
> This is another scratch build from a couple a pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted that same look on the side like the low boy trailer so set up the shopsmith and dadoed out the sides of the base.
> But before I could do that I made a new Zero Clearance Table Saw Insert for the dado I just didn't like the standard insert that comes with the saw it's just fine for large boards but the narrow stuff I cut needs to be zero clearance not 1/4 clearance on each side..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the start to my crane.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Now I need to sit back and figure how I need to do the cables.
> Don't think there's going to be much detail here just playing around with this one..


Another great addition! How about Coal Car next?


----------



## WhoMe

htl said:


> *railway breakdown crane #1 *
> 
> Had a lot a fun building the diesel train so thought I would play with a work car to go with my working engine.
> So the railway breakdown crane looks kind a interesting so we'll see how this turns out.
> This is another scratch build from a couple a pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted that same look on the side like the low boy trailer so set up the shopsmith and dadoed out the sides of the base.
> But before I could do that I made a new Zero Clearance Table Saw Insert for the dado I just didn't like the standard insert that comes with the saw it's just fine for large boards but the narrow stuff I cut needs to be zero clearance not 1/4 clearance on each side..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the start to my crane.
> 
> 
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> 
> Now I need to sit back and figure how I need to do the cables.
> Don't think there's going to be much detail here just playing around with this one..


Or how about a rotary snow plow next, or a ballast gondola, a pair of gondolas carrying rails.
You could make a complete rail replacement train….

Totally enjoying the posts


----------



## helluvawreck

htl said:


> *railway breakdown crane #1 *
> 
> Had a lot a fun building the diesel train so thought I would play with a work car to go with my working engine.
> So the railway breakdown crane looks kind a interesting so we'll see how this turns out.
> This is another scratch build from a couple a pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted that same look on the side like the low boy trailer so set up the shopsmith and dadoed out the sides of the base.
> But before I could do that I made a new Zero Clearance Table Saw Insert for the dado I just didn't like the standard insert that comes with the saw it's just fine for large boards but the narrow stuff I cut needs to be zero clearance not 1/4 clearance on each side..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the start to my crane.
> 
> 
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> 
> Now I need to sit back and figure how I need to do the cables.
> Don't think there's going to be much detail here just playing around with this one..


This is a magnificent model. It displays a lot of details and a lot of fine details.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *railway breakdown crane #1 *
> 
> Had a lot a fun building the diesel train so thought I would play with a work car to go with my working engine.
> So the railway breakdown crane looks kind a interesting so we'll see how this turns out.
> This is another scratch build from a couple a pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted that same look on the side like the low boy trailer so set up the shopsmith and dadoed out the sides of the base.
> But before I could do that I made a new Zero Clearance Table Saw Insert for the dado I just didn't like the standard insert that comes with the saw it's just fine for large boards but the narrow stuff I cut needs to be zero clearance not 1/4 clearance on each side..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the start to my crane.
> 
> 
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> 
> Now I need to sit back and figure how I need to do the cables.
> Don't think there's going to be much detail here just playing around with this one..


Good project looks like a great start.


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## johnstoneb

htl said:


> *railway breakdown crane #1 *
> 
> Had a lot a fun building the diesel train so thought I would play with a work car to go with my working engine.
> So the railway breakdown crane looks kind a interesting so we'll see how this turns out.
> This is another scratch build from a couple a pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted that same look on the side like the low boy trailer so set up the shopsmith and dadoed out the sides of the base.
> But before I could do that I made a new Zero Clearance Table Saw Insert for the dado I just didn't like the standard insert that comes with the saw it's just fine for large boards but the narrow stuff I cut needs to be zero clearance not 1/4 clearance on each side..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the start to my crane.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Now I need to sit back and figure how I need to do the cables.
> Don't think there's going to be much detail here just playing around with this one..


Looking good.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *railway breakdown crane #1 *
> 
> Had a lot a fun building the diesel train so thought I would play with a work car to go with my working engine.
> So the railway breakdown crane looks kind a interesting so we'll see how this turns out.
> This is another scratch build from a couple a pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted that same look on the side like the low boy trailer so set up the shopsmith and dadoed out the sides of the base.
> But before I could do that I made a new Zero Clearance Table Saw Insert for the dado I just didn't like the standard insert that comes with the saw it's just fine for large boards but the narrow stuff I cut needs to be zero clearance not 1/4 clearance on each side..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the start to my crane.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to sit back and figure how I need to do the cables.
> Don't think there's going to be much detail here just playing around with this one..


Sorry Dutchy but I still have a mile of that tan [yellow] cord I used on the well drilling project. lol
and Bruce #3 the coal car does look like a great candidate for a build, in fact was going to build one when I spied the crane..
These scratch builds are fun but it takes a while longer to build, have to spend a lot a time scratching your head where the T&J builds are so much faster having all the shapes you need on hand and no worries that the dimensions aren't right.

WhoMe I don't even know what a ballast gondola is but I will shortly.

Here Google, google,google! Here google! What's a ballast gondola


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *railway breakdown crane #1 *
> 
> Had a lot a fun building the diesel train so thought I would play with a work car to go with my working engine.
> So the railway breakdown crane looks kind a interesting so we'll see how this turns out.
> This is another scratch build from a couple a pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted that same look on the side like the low boy trailer so set up the shopsmith and dadoed out the sides of the base.
> But before I could do that I made a new Zero Clearance Table Saw Insert for the dado I just didn't like the standard insert that comes with the saw it's just fine for large boards but the narrow stuff I cut needs to be zero clearance not 1/4 clearance on each side..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the start to my crane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Now I need to sit back and figure how I need to do the cables.
> Don't think there's going to be much detail here just playing around with this one..


WhoMe I don't really know that much about trains and the cars but the ballast gondola was the car I was looking for when I found the crane.
I have the T&J belly dump trailer plans but really not interested in building it but was looking for the train car equivalent and the ballast gondola is it, so this just may be my next project or at least down the road.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *railway breakdown crane #1 *
> 
> Had a lot a fun building the diesel train so thought I would play with a work car to go with my working engine.
> So the railway breakdown crane looks kind a interesting so we'll see how this turns out.
> This is another scratch build from a couple a pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted that same look on the side like the low boy trailer so set up the shopsmith and dadoed out the sides of the base.
> But before I could do that I made a new Zero Clearance Table Saw Insert for the dado I just didn't like the standard insert that comes with the saw it's just fine for large boards but the narrow stuff I cut needs to be zero clearance not 1/4 clearance on each side..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the start to my crane.
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to sit back and figure how I need to do the cables.
> Don't think there's going to be much detail here just playing around with this one..


You're really getting into *train*ing, #4… You're gonna be very fit soon.



> Enjoying again.
> 
> Is this a good idea for the cable?
> 
> Or:
> 
> this one.
> 
> - Dutchy


*Or this???*


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *railway breakdown crane #1 *
> 
> Had a lot a fun building the diesel train so thought I would play with a work car to go with my working engine.
> So the railway breakdown crane looks kind a interesting so we'll see how this turns out.
> This is another scratch build from a couple a pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted that same look on the side like the low boy trailer so set up the shopsmith and dadoed out the sides of the base.
> But before I could do that I made a new Zero Clearance Table Saw Insert for the dado I just didn't like the standard insert that comes with the saw it's just fine for large boards but the narrow stuff I cut needs to be zero clearance not 1/4 clearance on each side..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the start to my crane.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to sit back and figure how I need to do the cables.
> Don't think there's going to be much detail here just playing around with this one..


Or a nervous wreck!


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *railway breakdown crane #1 *
> 
> Had a lot a fun building the diesel train so thought I would play with a work car to go with my working engine.
> So the railway breakdown crane looks kind a interesting so we'll see how this turns out.
> This is another scratch build from a couple a pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted that same look on the side like the low boy trailer so set up the shopsmith and dadoed out the sides of the base.
> But before I could do that I made a new Zero Clearance Table Saw Insert for the dado I just didn't like the standard insert that comes with the saw it's just fine for large boards but the narrow stuff I cut needs to be zero clearance not 1/4 clearance on each side..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the start to my crane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to sit back and figure how I need to do the cables.
> Don't think there's going to be much detail here just playing around with this one..


next model should be 1 of the railroad trucks


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *railway breakdown crane #1 *
> 
> Had a lot a fun building the diesel train so thought I would play with a work car to go with my working engine.
> So the railway breakdown crane looks kind a interesting so we'll see how this turns out.
> This is another scratch build from a couple a pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted that same look on the side like the low boy trailer so set up the shopsmith and dadoed out the sides of the base.
> But before I could do that I made a new Zero Clearance Table Saw Insert for the dado I just didn't like the standard insert that comes with the saw it's just fine for large boards but the narrow stuff I cut needs to be zero clearance not 1/4 clearance on each side..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the start to my crane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to sit back and figure how I need to do the cables.
> Don't think there's going to be much detail here just playing around with this one..


You're going to have to make more tracks at this rate Bruce…as you are certainly barrelling down the tracks with yet another build…WELL DONE AGAIN SIR…


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *railway breakdown crane #1 *
> 
> Had a lot a fun building the diesel train so thought I would play with a work car to go with my working engine.
> So the railway breakdown crane looks kind a interesting so we'll see how this turns out.
> This is another scratch build from a couple a pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted that same look on the side like the low boy trailer so set up the shopsmith and dadoed out the sides of the base.
> But before I could do that I made a new Zero Clearance Table Saw Insert for the dado I just didn't like the standard insert that comes with the saw it's just fine for large boards but the narrow stuff I cut needs to be zero clearance not 1/4 clearance on each side..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the start to my crane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to sit back and figure how I need to do the cables.
> Don't think there's going to be much detail here just playing around with this one..





> You re going to have to make *more tracks*...
> 
> - crowie


Sick of living Crowie??? *Tracks* to a "*htl*" is like a *red rag *to a *bull*!


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *railway breakdown crane #1 *
> 
> Had a lot a fun building the diesel train so thought I would play with a work car to go with my working engine.
> So the railway breakdown crane looks kind a interesting so we'll see how this turns out.
> This is another scratch build from a couple a pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted that same look on the side like the low boy trailer so set up the shopsmith and dadoed out the sides of the base.
> But before I could do that I made a new Zero Clearance Table Saw Insert for the dado I just didn't like the standard insert that comes with the saw it's just fine for large boards but the narrow stuff I cut needs to be zero clearance not 1/4 clearance on each side..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the start to my crane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to sit back and figure how I need to do the cables.
> Don't think there's going to be much detail here just playing around with this one..





> You re really getting into *train*ing, #4… You re gonna be very fit soon.
> 
> Enjoying again.
> 
> Is this a good idea for the cable?
> 
> Or:
> 
> this one.
> 
> - Dutchy
> 
> *Or this???*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - LittleBlackDuck


There's two ways to do things…The right one or the stupid one.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *railway breakdown crane #1 *
> 
> Had a lot a fun building the diesel train so thought I would play with a work car to go with my working engine.
> So the railway breakdown crane looks kind a interesting so we'll see how this turns out.
> This is another scratch build from a couple a pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted that same look on the side like the low boy trailer so set up the shopsmith and dadoed out the sides of the base.
> But before I could do that I made a new Zero Clearance Table Saw Insert for the dado I just didn't like the standard insert that comes with the saw it's just fine for large boards but the narrow stuff I cut needs to be zero clearance not 1/4 clearance on each side..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the start to my crane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to sit back and figure how I need to do the cables.
> Don't think there's going to be much detail here just playing around with this one..


crowie, I thought about building a railroad trestle but haven't found one that looks right for my needs.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *railway breakdown crane #1 *
> 
> Had a lot a fun building the diesel train so thought I would play with a work car to go with my working engine.
> So the railway breakdown crane looks kind a interesting so we'll see how this turns out.
> This is another scratch build from a couple a pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted that same look on the side like the low boy trailer so set up the shopsmith and dadoed out the sides of the base.
> But before I could do that I made a new Zero Clearance Table Saw Insert for the dado I just didn't like the standard insert that comes with the saw it's just fine for large boards but the narrow stuff I cut needs to be zero clearance not 1/4 clearance on each side..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the start to my crane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to sit back and figure how I need to do the cables.
> Don't think there's going to be much detail here just playing around with this one..


Hunter are you talking about the pickup trucks that have the extra wheels for riding the tracks or what.


----------



## bruce317

htl said:


> *railway breakdown crane #1 *
> 
> Had a lot a fun building the diesel train so thought I would play with a work car to go with my working engine.
> So the railway breakdown crane looks kind a interesting so we'll see how this turns out.
> This is another scratch build from a couple a pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted that same look on the side like the low boy trailer so set up the shopsmith and dadoed out the sides of the base.
> But before I could do that I made a new Zero Clearance Table Saw Insert for the dado I just didn't like the standard insert that comes with the saw it's just fine for large boards but the narrow stuff I cut needs to be zero clearance not 1/4 clearance on each side..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the start to my crane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to sit back and figure how I need to do the cables.
> Don't think there's going to be much detail here just playing around with this one..


Bruce,
T&J # 40 would be one choice.

http://toysandjoys.com/images/detailed/0/40_railroad_baggage_truck.jpg?t=1455191082


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *railway breakdown crane #1 *
> 
> Had a lot a fun building the diesel train so thought I would play with a work car to go with my working engine.
> So the railway breakdown crane looks kind a interesting so we'll see how this turns out.
> This is another scratch build from a couple a pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted that same look on the side like the low boy trailer so set up the shopsmith and dadoed out the sides of the base.
> But before I could do that I made a new Zero Clearance Table Saw Insert for the dado I just didn't like the standard insert that comes with the saw it's just fine for large boards but the narrow stuff I cut needs to be zero clearance not 1/4 clearance on each side..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the start to my crane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to sit back and figure how I need to do the cables.
> Don't think there's going to be much detail here just playing around with this one..





> Hunter are you talking about the pickup trucks that have the extra wheels for riding the tracks or what.
> 
> - htl


YES …..they have all kinds …....http://www.autotruck.com/products/railroad


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *railway breakdown crane #1 *
> 
> Had a lot a fun building the diesel train so thought I would play with a work car to go with my working engine.
> So the railway breakdown crane looks kind a interesting so we'll see how this turns out.
> This is another scratch build from a couple a pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted that same look on the side like the low boy trailer so set up the shopsmith and dadoed out the sides of the base.
> But before I could do that I made a new Zero Clearance Table Saw Insert for the dado I just didn't like the standard insert that comes with the saw it's just fine for large boards but the narrow stuff I cut needs to be zero clearance not 1/4 clearance on each side..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the start to my crane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to sit back and figure how I need to do the cables.
> Don't think there's going to be much detail here just playing around with this one..


I'm *cran*ing my neck for more pictures #4.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *railway breakdown crane #1 *
> 
> Had a lot a fun building the diesel train so thought I would play with a work car to go with my working engine.
> So the railway breakdown crane looks kind a interesting so we'll see how this turns out.
> This is another scratch build from a couple a pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted that same look on the side like the low boy trailer so set up the shopsmith and dadoed out the sides of the base.
> But before I could do that I made a new Zero Clearance Table Saw Insert for the dado I just didn't like the standard insert that comes with the saw it's just fine for large boards but the narrow stuff I cut needs to be zero clearance not 1/4 clearance on each side..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the start to my crane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to sit back and figure how I need to do the cables.
> Don't think there's going to be much detail here just playing around with this one..


Just an FYI…



> YES …..they have all kinds …....http://www.autotruck.com/products/railroad
> 
> - GR8HUNTER


*GR8 et all*, Probably a false alarm, however, just in case it isn't…
Reported by* Kaspersky* on my PC… (But Kaspersky's not like me… It *can* make mistakes…).
I was *totally* locked out… wasn't even given the option to be a thrill-seeker.








Then I tried "*www.autotruck.com*" by itself and got the following,









*The above FYI warning is not an attempted joke..*

The following is…

( Could this be a leftover from the *"red bull" bull* above???... Just looking at all that red… . )


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *railway breakdown crane #1 *
> 
> Had a lot a fun building the diesel train so thought I would play with a work car to go with my working engine.
> So the railway breakdown crane looks kind a interesting so we'll see how this turns out.
> This is another scratch build from a couple a pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted that same look on the side like the low boy trailer so set up the shopsmith and dadoed out the sides of the base.
> But before I could do that I made a new Zero Clearance Table Saw Insert for the dado I just didn't like the standard insert that comes with the saw it's just fine for large boards but the narrow stuff I cut needs to be zero clearance not 1/4 clearance on each side..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here the start to my crane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to sit back and figure how I need to do the cables.
> Don't think there's going to be much detail here just playing around with this one..


I won't be needing to look there any time soon. lol
It's a shame when a site gets hurt like this.


----------



## htl

*railway break down crane #2*

Well I wasn't happy with the way the boom came out so redid it then made the wheels for this build and for two more cars, 28 in all.

Here's the old boom and then on to the new.









I cut grooves with the miter saw then glued it up.













































Then got into wheel mod and built 28 wheels for this car and there is a car that follows the crane and gives it some where to lower the boom when traveling so will be making that.
I made the base for it when I cut out the crane so I guess you could say I'm building two cars at once..
Here's a look at it.










Then may get around to the ballast gondola if I'm still in the train mod.

Now back to the wheels.
I drill from one side go almost all the way through then flip it over and finish the cut, this leaves part of the wood sticking out the bottom and easier to get with a pair a pliers.
I also try to make one cut as close to the other so the blade ends up with some clearance for the saw dust. You'll be surprised how much this helps especially on the bigger wheels.









After drilling them all out and sanding them on the SS disk sander and wheel jig I got into glue up mod.









I put the guide wheel on an axle added glue to the wheel and placed it on the guide wheel then added some clamps and puller the axle out and on to the next.

I never thought much of these small plastic clamps but their great for this project.




























Now just some shots of the rebuilt parts and wheels to get a look.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *railway break down crane #2*
> 
> Well I wasn't happy with the way the boom came out so redid it then made the wheels for this build and for two more cars, 28 in all.
> 
> Here's the old boom and then on to the new.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut grooves with the miter saw then glued it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then got into wheel mod and built 28 wheels for this car and there is a car that follows the crane and gives it some where to lower the boom when traveling so will be making that.
> I made the base for it when I cut out the crane so I guess you could say I'm building two cars at once..
> Here's a look at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then may get around to the ballast gondola if I'm still in the train mod.
> 
> Now back to the wheels.
> I drill from one side go almost all the way through then flip it over and finish the cut, this leaves part of the wood sticking out the bottom and easier to get with a pair a pliers.
> I also try to make one cut as close to the other so the blade ends up with some clearance for the saw dust. You'll be surprised how much this helps especially on the bigger wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling them all out and sanding them on the SS disk sander and wheel jig I got into glue up mod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the guide wheel on an axle added glue to the wheel and placed it on the guide wheel then added some clamps and puller the axle out and on to the next.
> 
> I never thought much of these small plastic clamps but their great for this project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just some shots of the rebuilt parts and wheels to get a look.


YOU SIR …......certainly do not let grass grow under your feet …... I am in total awe of just how fast you are ….. btw …... I think the dowels look a lot better


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *railway break down crane #2*
> 
> Well I wasn't happy with the way the boom came out so redid it then made the wheels for this build and for two more cars, 28 in all.
> 
> Here's the old boom and then on to the new.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut grooves with the miter saw then glued it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then got into wheel mod and built 28 wheels for this car and there is a car that follows the crane and gives it some where to lower the boom when traveling so will be making that.
> I made the base for it when I cut out the crane so I guess you could say I'm building two cars at once..
> Here's a look at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then may get around to the ballast gondola if I'm still in the train mod.
> 
> Now back to the wheels.
> I drill from one side go almost all the way through then flip it over and finish the cut, this leaves part of the wood sticking out the bottom and easier to get with a pair a pliers.
> I also try to make one cut as close to the other so the blade ends up with some clearance for the saw dust. You'll be surprised how much this helps especially on the bigger wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling them all out and sanding them on the SS disk sander and wheel jig I got into glue up mod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the guide wheel on an axle added glue to the wheel and placed it on the guide wheel then added some clamps and puller the axle out and on to the next.
> 
> I never thought much of these small plastic clamps but their great for this project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just some shots of the rebuilt parts and wheels to get a look.


G'Day Bruce, 
The revamped crane arm does look better than the original, a heap more work but it certainly well worth the end result looking great….
Thank you for all the photos on wheel making, appreciate the extra time & effort to assist others & me.


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *railway break down crane #2*
> 
> Well I wasn't happy with the way the boom came out so redid it then made the wheels for this build and for two more cars, 28 in all.
> 
> Here's the old boom and then on to the new.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut grooves with the miter saw then glued it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then got into wheel mod and built 28 wheels for this car and there is a car that follows the crane and gives it some where to lower the boom when traveling so will be making that.
> I made the base for it when I cut out the crane so I guess you could say I'm building two cars at once..
> Here's a look at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then may get around to the ballast gondola if I'm still in the train mod.
> 
> Now back to the wheels.
> I drill from one side go almost all the way through then flip it over and finish the cut, this leaves part of the wood sticking out the bottom and easier to get with a pair a pliers.
> I also try to make one cut as close to the other so the blade ends up with some clearance for the saw dust. You'll be surprised how much this helps especially on the bigger wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling them all out and sanding them on the SS disk sander and wheel jig I got into glue up mod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the guide wheel on an axle added glue to the wheel and placed it on the guide wheel then added some clamps and puller the axle out and on to the next.
> 
> I never thought much of these small plastic clamps but their great for this project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just some shots of the rebuilt parts and wheels to get a look.


I agree; I like the boom bracing a lot better much more realistic, keep up the good work.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *railway break down crane #2*
> 
> Well I wasn't happy with the way the boom came out so redid it then made the wheels for this build and for two more cars, 28 in all.
> 
> Here's the old boom and then on to the new.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut grooves with the miter saw then glued it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then got into wheel mod and built 28 wheels for this car and there is a car that follows the crane and gives it some where to lower the boom when traveling so will be making that.
> I made the base for it when I cut out the crane so I guess you could say I'm building two cars at once..
> Here's a look at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then may get around to the ballast gondola if I'm still in the train mod.
> 
> Now back to the wheels.
> I drill from one side go almost all the way through then flip it over and finish the cut, this leaves part of the wood sticking out the bottom and easier to get with a pair a pliers.
> I also try to make one cut as close to the other so the blade ends up with some clearance for the saw dust. You'll be surprised how much this helps especially on the bigger wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling them all out and sanding them on the SS disk sander and wheel jig I got into glue up mod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the guide wheel on an axle added glue to the wheel and placed it on the guide wheel then added some clamps and puller the axle out and on to the next.
> 
> I never thought much of these small plastic clamps but their great for this project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just some shots of the rebuilt parts and wheels to get a look.


If I was building a toy the first arm would have been ok, not prone to breaking but this is a model so make it pretty not bullet proof. lol


----------



## ralbuck

htl said:


> *railway break down crane #2*
> 
> Well I wasn't happy with the way the boom came out so redid it then made the wheels for this build and for two more cars, 28 in all.
> 
> Here's the old boom and then on to the new.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut grooves with the miter saw then glued it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then got into wheel mod and built 28 wheels for this car and there is a car that follows the crane and gives it some where to lower the boom when traveling so will be making that.
> I made the base for it when I cut out the crane so I guess you could say I'm building two cars at once..
> Here's a look at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then may get around to the ballast gondola if I'm still in the train mod.
> 
> Now back to the wheels.
> I drill from one side go almost all the way through then flip it over and finish the cut, this leaves part of the wood sticking out the bottom and easier to get with a pair a pliers.
> I also try to make one cut as close to the other so the blade ends up with some clearance for the saw dust. You'll be surprised how much this helps especially on the bigger wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling them all out and sanding them on the SS disk sander and wheel jig I got into glue up mod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the guide wheel on an axle added glue to the wheel and placed it on the guide wheel then added some clamps and puller the axle out and on to the next.
> 
> I never thought much of these small plastic clamps but their great for this project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just some shots of the rebuilt parts and wheels to get a look.


Iy is looking very FINE!

I have to admire yourpatience; I surely do not have thagt much!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *railway break down crane #2*
> 
> Well I wasn't happy with the way the boom came out so redid it then made the wheels for this build and for two more cars, 28 in all.
> 
> Here's the old boom and then on to the new.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut grooves with the miter saw then glued it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then got into wheel mod and built 28 wheels for this car and there is a car that follows the crane and gives it some where to lower the boom when traveling so will be making that.
> I made the base for it when I cut out the crane so I guess you could say I'm building two cars at once..
> Here's a look at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then may get around to the ballast gondola if I'm still in the train mod.
> 
> Now back to the wheels.
> I drill from one side go almost all the way through then flip it over and finish the cut, this leaves part of the wood sticking out the bottom and easier to get with a pair a pliers.
> I also try to make one cut as close to the other so the blade ends up with some clearance for the saw dust. You'll be surprised how much this helps especially on the bigger wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling them all out and sanding them on the SS disk sander and wheel jig I got into glue up mod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the guide wheel on an axle added glue to the wheel and placed it on the guide wheel then added some clamps and puller the axle out and on to the next.
> 
> I never thought much of these small plastic clamps but their great for this project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just some shots of the rebuilt parts and wheels to get a look.


*"Glued it"*. Would have said *"nailed it"* but naturally you didn't. Looks much better and more resembles the photo in pickie #1.
As a bonus you could always use the new design as a one sided *"Naughts and Crosses"* game.. 


> I also try to make one cut as close to the other so the blade ends up with some clearance for the saw dust.
> 
> - htl


*Very* handy tip.

*PS. * You may be 2 wheels short… You might need 2 more for that boom-arm support… (the missus always says I'm missing a few wheels (her name for brain cells) short). 









Sorry #4, just trying to avoid you having to repeat *"why didn't you tell me earlier"*.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *railway break down crane #2*
> 
> Well I wasn't happy with the way the boom came out so redid it then made the wheels for this build and for two more cars, 28 in all.
> 
> Here's the old boom and then on to the new.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut grooves with the miter saw then glued it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then got into wheel mod and built 28 wheels for this car and there is a car that follows the crane and gives it some where to lower the boom when traveling so will be making that.
> I made the base for it when I cut out the crane so I guess you could say I'm building two cars at once..
> Here's a look at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then may get around to the ballast gondola if I'm still in the train mod.
> 
> Now back to the wheels.
> I drill from one side go almost all the way through then flip it over and finish the cut, this leaves part of the wood sticking out the bottom and easier to get with a pair a pliers.
> I also try to make one cut as close to the other so the blade ends up with some clearance for the saw dust. You'll be surprised how much this helps especially on the bigger wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling them all out and sanding them on the SS disk sander and wheel jig I got into glue up mod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the guide wheel on an axle added glue to the wheel and placed it on the guide wheel then added some clamps and puller the axle out and on to the next.
> 
> I never thought much of these small plastic clamps but their great for this project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just some shots of the rebuilt parts and wheels to get a look.


If you could look at it closer you would see the nail holes so didn't use that part.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *railway break down crane #2*
> 
> Well I wasn't happy with the way the boom came out so redid it then made the wheels for this build and for two more cars, 28 in all.
> 
> Here's the old boom and then on to the new.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut grooves with the miter saw then glued it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then got into wheel mod and built 28 wheels for this car and there is a car that follows the crane and gives it some where to lower the boom when traveling so will be making that.
> I made the base for it when I cut out the crane so I guess you could say I'm building two cars at once..
> Here's a look at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then may get around to the ballast gondola if I'm still in the train mod.
> 
> Now back to the wheels.
> I drill from one side go almost all the way through then flip it over and finish the cut, this leaves part of the wood sticking out the bottom and easier to get with a pair a pliers.
> I also try to make one cut as close to the other so the blade ends up with some clearance for the saw dust. You'll be surprised how much this helps especially on the bigger wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling them all out and sanding them on the SS disk sander and wheel jig I got into glue up mod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the guide wheel on an axle added glue to the wheel and placed it on the guide wheel then added some clamps and puller the axle out and on to the next.
> 
> I never thought much of these small plastic clamps but their great for this project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just some shots of the rebuilt parts and wheels to get a look.


The boom looks much nicer.


----------



## htl

*T&J Dozer #1*

When Gr8Hunter posted his dozer It was just so nice I had to get a move on and build one.
His project here

I already have the tracks and some left over hydraulics from my excavator so all the really hard work is already done just need to build a body and put er together.
My first dozer here.
My excavator

So here's my starter pictures.
I will be using oak and walnut and a little cherry.
These are store bought plans from Toys and joys, they make some really great plans and are a ball to build.
The tracks for this are the major part of this build.
Here's a short how to for the tracks and Dutchy also has one.
Somebody keeps stealing the pictures I thought I took but once I get working it's hard to think to stop and take them plus many things I've already made how to's for so no need repeating them.


















Showing the odd shape I had to work around to get this groove cut on the bottom.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *T&J Dozer #1*
> 
> When Gr8Hunter posted his dozer It was just so nice I had to get a move on and build one.
> His project here
> 
> I already have the tracks and some left over hydraulics from my excavator so all the really hard work is already done just need to build a body and put er together.
> My first dozer here.
> My excavator
> 
> So here's my starter pictures.
> I will be using oak and walnut and a little cherry.
> These are store bought plans from Toys and joys, they make some really great plans and are a ball to build.
> The tracks for this are the major part of this build.
> Here's a short how to for the tracks and Dutchy also has one.
> Somebody keeps stealing the pictures I thought I took but once I get working it's hard to think to stop and take them plus many things I've already made how to's for so no need repeating them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Showing the odd shape I had to work around to get this groove cut on the bottom.


Can't you afford stickers for the banding? TIC

I like… VERY nice touch.

*PS.* You gotta paint that pink basket… Maybe you can use the sides (of the pinkie) as a template for the grill…


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *T&J Dozer #1*
> 
> When Gr8Hunter posted his dozer It was just so nice I had to get a move on and build one.
> His project here
> 
> I already have the tracks and some left over hydraulics from my excavator so all the really hard work is already done just need to build a body and put er together.
> My first dozer here.
> My excavator
> 
> So here's my starter pictures.
> I will be using oak and walnut and a little cherry.
> These are store bought plans from Toys and joys, they make some really great plans and are a ball to build.
> The tracks for this are the major part of this build.
> Here's a short how to for the tracks and Dutchy also has one.
> Somebody keeps stealing the pictures I thought I took but once I get working it's hard to think to stop and take them plus many things I've already made how to's for so no need repeating them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Showing the odd shape I had to work around to get this groove cut on the bottom.


Why would I use stickers when I have all this pretty walnut? lol

*PS.* You gotta paint that pink basket… Maybe you can use the sides (of the pinkie) as a template for the grill…

My Mrs. gave me that so be careful, I'll get her to tell your *much* better half you're picking on me!!!


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *T&J Dozer #1*
> 
> When Gr8Hunter posted his dozer It was just so nice I had to get a move on and build one.
> His project here
> 
> I already have the tracks and some left over hydraulics from my excavator so all the really hard work is already done just need to build a body and put er together.
> My first dozer here.
> My excavator
> 
> So here's my starter pictures.
> I will be using oak and walnut and a little cherry.
> These are store bought plans from Toys and joys, they make some really great plans and are a ball to build.
> The tracks for this are the major part of this build.
> Here's a short how to for the tracks and Dutchy also has one.
> Somebody keeps stealing the pictures I thought I took but once I get working it's hard to think to stop and take them plus many things I've already made how to's for so no need repeating them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Showing the odd shape I had to work around to get this groove cut on the bottom.


a very good start so far Bruce …. are you going to shrink it a bit …..... or will he fit onto your trailer ?


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *T&J Dozer #1*
> 
> When Gr8Hunter posted his dozer It was just so nice I had to get a move on and build one.
> His project here
> 
> I already have the tracks and some left over hydraulics from my excavator so all the really hard work is already done just need to build a body and put er together.
> My first dozer here.
> My excavator
> 
> So here's my starter pictures.
> I will be using oak and walnut and a little cherry.
> These are store bought plans from Toys and joys, they make some really great plans and are a ball to build.
> The tracks for this are the major part of this build.
> Here's a short how to for the tracks  and Dutchy also has one.
> Somebody keeps stealing the pictures I thought I took but once I get working it's hard to think to stop and take them plus many things I've already made how to's for so no need repeating them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Showing the odd shape I had to work around to get this groove cut on the bottom.


Hunter I've already got two things I can put in the trailer so going full size.
Plus the tracks I already have are for full size so not building more treads. LOL


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *T&J Dozer #1*
> 
> When Gr8Hunter posted his dozer It was just so nice I had to get a move on and build one.
> His project here
> 
> I already have the tracks and some left over hydraulics from my excavator so all the really hard work is already done just need to build a body and put er together.
> My first dozer here.
> My excavator
> 
> So here's my starter pictures.
> I will be using oak and walnut and a little cherry.
> These are store bought plans from Toys and joys, they make some really great plans and are a ball to build.
> The tracks for this are the major part of this build.
> Here's a short how to for the tracks and Dutchy also has one.
> Somebody keeps stealing the pictures I thought I took but once I get working it's hard to think to stop and take them plus many things I've already made how to's for so no need repeating them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Showing the odd shape I had to work around to get this groove cut on the bottom.


that was best part for me building tracks except for when I cut them at 3/16" instead of 3/8" thick which worked out better any ways


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *T&J Dozer #1*
> 
> When Gr8Hunter posted his dozer It was just so nice I had to get a move on and build one.
> His project here
> 
> I already have the tracks and some left over hydraulics from my excavator so all the really hard work is already done just need to build a body and put er together.
> My first dozer here.
> My excavator
> 
> So here's my starter pictures.
> I will be using oak and walnut and a little cherry.
> These are store bought plans from Toys and joys, they make some really great plans and are a ball to build.
> The tracks for this are the major part of this build.
> Here's a short how to for the tracks and Dutchy also has one.
> Somebody keeps stealing the pictures I thought I took but once I get working it's hard to think to stop and take them plus many things I've already made how to's for so no need repeating them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Showing the odd shape I had to work around to get this groove cut on the bottom.





> Why would I use stickers when I have all this *pretty walnut*? lol
> 
> - htl


Didn't notice bandsaw or drum sander in your workshop… How'd you veneer (even that far away)?



> My Mrs. gave me that so be careful, ...
> 
> - htl


She also married you… hmmmm!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *T&J Dozer #1*
> 
> When Gr8Hunter posted his dozer It was just so nice I had to get a move on and build one.
> His project here
> 
> I already have the tracks and some left over hydraulics from my excavator so all the really hard work is already done just need to build a body and put er together.
> My first dozer here.
> My excavator
> 
> So here's my starter pictures.
> I will be using oak and walnut and a little cherry.
> These are store bought plans from Toys and joys, they make some really great plans and are a ball to build.
> The tracks for this are the major part of this build.
> Here's a short how to for the tracks and Dutchy also has one.
> Somebody keeps stealing the pictures I thought I took but once I get working it's hard to think to stop and take them plus many things I've already made how to's for so no need repeating them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Showing the odd shape I had to work around to get this groove cut on the bottom.


Hunter So you went ahead and made them with 3/16? 
interesting?


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *T&J Dozer #1*
> 
> When Gr8Hunter posted his dozer It was just so nice I had to get a move on and build one.
> His project here
> 
> I already have the tracks and some left over hydraulics from my excavator so all the really hard work is already done just need to build a body and put er together.
> My first dozer here.
> My excavator
> 
> So here's my starter pictures.
> I will be using oak and walnut and a little cherry.
> These are store bought plans from Toys and joys, they make some really great plans and are a ball to build.
> The tracks for this are the major part of this build.
> Here's a short how to for the tracks and Dutchy also has one.
> Somebody keeps stealing the pictures I thought I took but once I get working it's hard to think to stop and take them plus many things I've already made how to's for so no need repeating them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Showing the odd shape I had to work around to get this groove cut on the bottom.


I have a bandsaw but rather and get better results resawing with the table saw.
I will cut lumber down to near size then resaw it for the thickness I need then if long enough run it through the planer.
My plainer will work with just over 1/8" thick but haven't really tested to see how low it will go.
I can belt sand it from there with my 3" X 21" belt sander


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *T&J Dozer #1*
> 
> When Gr8Hunter posted his dozer It was just so nice I had to get a move on and build one.
> His project here
> 
> I already have the tracks and some left over hydraulics from my excavator so all the really hard work is already done just need to build a body and put er together.
> My first dozer here.
> My excavator
> 
> So here's my starter pictures.
> I will be using oak and walnut and a little cherry.
> These are store bought plans from Toys and joys, they make some really great plans and are a ball to build.
> The tracks for this are the major part of this build.
> Here's a short how to for the tracks and Dutchy also has one.
> Somebody keeps stealing the pictures I thought I took but once I get working it's hard to think to stop and take them plus many things I've already made how to's for so no need repeating them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Showing the odd shape I had to work around to get this groove cut on the bottom.


Had a mental block as I do similar (forgot about your planer). While bandsawing is good for wide boards I hate the finish and what kerf saving I make I loose in the cleanup. I have a 20mm laminex tabletop (20mm to make maths easier and laminex to make it slippery) that I put on my planer for very narrow stock but the pressure roller leaves groove marks if I take shallow cuts to sneak up on the thickness. 
I find the drum sander allows me to create those crazy 1/32" T&J dimensions.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *T&J Dozer #1*
> 
> When Gr8Hunter posted his dozer It was just so nice I had to get a move on and build one.
> His project here
> 
> I already have the tracks and some left over hydraulics from my excavator so all the really hard work is already done just need to build a body and put er together.
> My first dozer here.
> My excavator
> 
> So here's my starter pictures.
> I will be using oak and walnut and a little cherry.
> These are store bought plans from Toys and joys, they make some really great plans and are a ball to build.
> The tracks for this are the major part of this build.
> Here's a short how to for the tracks and Dutchy also has one.
> Somebody keeps stealing the pictures I thought I took but once I get working it's hard to think to stop and take them plus many things I've already made how to's for so no need repeating them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Showing the odd shape I had to work around to get this groove cut on the bottom.


I don't even worry about then super small thicknesses but don't think I've really build any of the plans that call for that.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *T&J Dozer #1*
> 
> When Gr8Hunter posted his dozer It was just so nice I had to get a move on and build one.
> His project here
> 
> I already have the tracks and some left over hydraulics from my excavator so all the really hard work is already done just need to build a body and put er together.
> My first dozer here.
> My excavator
> 
> So here's my starter pictures.
> I will be using oak and walnut and a little cherry.
> These are store bought plans from Toys and joys, they make some really great plans and are a ball to build.
> The tracks for this are the major part of this build.
> Here's a short how to for the tracks and Dutchy also has one.
> Somebody keeps stealing the pictures I thought I took but once I get working it's hard to think to stop and take them plus many things I've already made how to's for so no need repeating them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Showing the odd shape I had to work around to get this groove cut on the bottom.


I've learnt to follow instructions…. SWMBO indoctrination..


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *T&J Dozer #1*
> 
> When Gr8Hunter posted his dozer It was just so nice I had to get a move on and build one.
> His project here
> 
> I already have the tracks and some left over hydraulics from my excavator so all the really hard work is already done just need to build a body and put er together.
> My first dozer here.
> My excavator
> 
> So here's my starter pictures.
> I will be using oak and walnut and a little cherry.
> These are store bought plans from Toys and joys, they make some really great plans and are a ball to build.
> The tracks for this are the major part of this build.
> Here's a short how to for the tracks and Dutchy also has one.
> Somebody keeps stealing the pictures I thought I took but once I get working it's hard to think to stop and take them plus many things I've already made how to's for so no need repeating them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Showing the odd shape I had to work around to get this groove cut on the bottom.


G'Day Bruce, I'll keep well clear of the mischief & banter and just sit on the sideline enjoying watching you build another very nice model, thank you….


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *T&J Dozer #1*
> 
> When Gr8Hunter posted his dozer It was just so nice I had to get a move on and build one.
> His project here
> 
> I already have the tracks and some left over hydraulics from my excavator so all the really hard work is already done just need to build a body and put er together.
> My first dozer here.
> My excavator
> 
> So here's my starter pictures.
> I will be using oak and walnut and a little cherry.
> These are store bought plans from Toys and joys, they make some really great plans and are a ball to build.
> The tracks for this are the major part of this build.
> Here's a short how to for the tracks and Dutchy also has one.
> Somebody keeps stealing the pictures I thought I took but once I get working it's hard to think to stop and take them plus many things I've already made how to's for so no need repeating them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Showing the odd shape I had to work around to get this groove cut on the bottom.


I will be one of the followers of this dozer building blog.

Nice to hear you have still some tracks, so ducky doesn't need to be worry about this.

Have a great time building this one.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *T&J Dozer #1*
> 
> When Gr8Hunter posted his dozer It was just so nice I had to get a move on and build one.
> His project here
> 
> I already have the tracks and some left over hydraulics from my excavator so all the really hard work is already done just need to build a body and put er together.
> My first dozer here.
> My excavator
> 
> So here's my starter pictures.
> I will be using oak and walnut and a little cherry.
> These are store bought plans from Toys and joys, they make some really great plans and are a ball to build.
> The tracks for this are the major part of this build.
> Here's a short how to for the tracks and Dutchy also has one.
> Somebody keeps stealing the pictures I thought I took but once I get working it's hard to think to stop and take them plus many things I've already made how to's for so no need repeating them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Showing the odd shape I had to work around to get this groove cut on the bottom.





> Nice to hear you have still some tracks, so ducky doesn t need to be worry about this.
> 
> - Dutchy


*Dutchy,*









*#4,*


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *T&J Dozer #1*
> 
> When Gr8Hunter posted his dozer It was just so nice I had to get a move on and build one.
> His project here
> 
> I already have the tracks and some left over hydraulics from my excavator so all the really hard work is already done just need to build a body and put er together.
> My first dozer here.
> My excavator
> 
> So here's my starter pictures.
> I will be using oak and walnut and a little cherry.
> These are store bought plans from Toys and joys, they make some really great plans and are a ball to build.
> The tracks for this are the major part of this build.
> Here's a short how to for the tracks and Dutchy also has one.
> Somebody keeps stealing the pictures I thought I took but once I get working it's hard to think to stop and take them plus many things I've already made how to's for so no need repeating them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Showing the odd shape I had to work around to get this groove cut on the bottom.


Thanks Ducky! I knew about making a formica table to go inside the planer for the thinner cuts but forgot about it and will be making one soon.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *T&J Dozer #1*
> 
> When Gr8Hunter posted his dozer It was just so nice I had to get a move on and build one.
> His project here
> 
> I already have the tracks and some left over hydraulics from my excavator so all the really hard work is already done just need to build a body and put er together.
> My first dozer here.
> My excavator
> 
> So here's my starter pictures.
> I will be using oak and walnut and a little cherry.
> These are store bought plans from Toys and joys, they make some really great plans and are a ball to build.
> The tracks for this are the major part of this build.
> Here's a short how to for the tracks and Dutchy also has one.
> Somebody keeps stealing the pictures I thought I took but once I get working it's hard to think to stop and take them plus many things I've already made how to's for so no need repeating them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Showing the odd shape I had to work around to get this groove cut on the bottom.





> Hunter So you went ahead and made them with 3/16?
> interesting?
> 
> - htl


 NO that's why I had recut them they are 3/8 ' thick 
no I meant had this plan in my head and changed it


----------



## htl

*T&J Dozer #2&3*

Barely spiting and sputtering the last couple a days but got a little done.

Got out my bucket a treads for the dozer and the parts were cut out but still need the holes the treads and the alignment blocks so a ton a work still to be done on them.


















These will be walnut treads but also had some mahogany one made up so used one of the mahogany treats to make a drilling jig.









I just drilled through the one side then flipped the jig over and did the other side.








*
Build note *When drilling and then putting the tread together if the dowels are too tight the treads may seem to lock up or when you have ten or more together it wants to turn and or not lay down flat, you will need to drill the inside hole a 1/32 bigger and this will give the dowels a little extra clearance.
They will now lay down flat and be loss like a snake.

I then made a jig to guide me as I glued on the guide blocks.
slide the tread under the jig put some super glue on the block set it next to the guide then wait a few seconds and slid it out and clamp.
I glued the two guide blocks to the mahogany tread then clamped to the table.

I didn't take pictures but for the traction treads I cut a groove for the treads to fit in for strength but more to guide the small parts to line up
There's pictures of this in my excavator blog.





































This time I just modified some store bought wheels.






















































Some of these last shots are just parts set so you can see whats going on but will leave loss so I can add more parts and make for easier sanding.














































Hope this is helpful to others.


----------



## diggerdelaney

htl said:


> *T&J Dozer #2&3*
> 
> Barely spiting and sputtering the last couple a days but got a little done.
> 
> Got out my bucket a treads for the dozer and the parts were cut out but still need the holes the treads and the alignment blocks so a ton a work still to be done on them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will be walnut treads but also had some mahogany one made up so used one of the mahogany treats to make a drilling jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just drilled through the one side then flipped the jig over and did the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> Build note *When drilling and then putting the tread together if the dowels are too tight the treads may seem to lock up or when you have ten or more together it wants to turn and or not lay down flat, you will need to drill the inside hole a 1/32 bigger and this will give the dowels a little extra clearance.
> They will now lay down flat and be loss like a snake.
> 
> I then made a jig to guide me as I glued on the guide blocks.
> slide the tread under the jig put some super glue on the block set it next to the guide then wait a few seconds and slid it out and clamp.
> I glued the two guide blocks to the mahogany tread then clamped to the table.
> 
> I didn't take pictures but for the traction treads I cut a groove for the treads to fit in for strength but more to guide the small parts to line up
> There's pictures of this in my excavator blog.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> This time I just modified some store bought wheels.
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> 
> Some of these last shots are just parts set so you can see whats going on but will leave loss so I can add more parts and make for easier sanding.
> 
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> 
> Hope this is helpful to others.


Looking good so far. I keep promising to do a model with tracks but that will have to wait until later


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## bruce317

htl said:


> *T&J Dozer #2&3*
> 
> Barely spiting and sputtering the last couple a days but got a little done.
> 
> Got out my bucket a treads for the dozer and the parts were cut out but still need the holes the treads and the alignment blocks so a ton a work still to be done on them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will be walnut treads but also had some mahogany one made up so used one of the mahogany treats to make a drilling jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just drilled through the one side then flipped the jig over and did the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> Build note *When drilling and then putting the tread together if the dowels are too tight the treads may seem to lock up or when you have ten or more together it wants to turn and or not lay down flat, you will need to drill the inside hole a 1/32 bigger and this will give the dowels a little extra clearance.
> They will now lay down flat and be loss like a snake.
> 
> I then made a jig to guide me as I glued on the guide blocks.
> slide the tread under the jig put some super glue on the block set it next to the guide then wait a few seconds and slid it out and clamp.
> I glued the two guide blocks to the mahogany tread then clamped to the table.
> 
> I didn't take pictures but for the traction treads I cut a groove for the treads to fit in for strength but more to guide the small parts to line up
> There's pictures of this in my excavator blog.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> This time I just modified some store bought wheels.
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> 
> Some of these last shots are just parts set so you can see whats going on but will leave loss so I can add more parts and make for easier sanding.
> 
> 
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> 
> Hope this is helpful to others.


Another great one is started.


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## htl

htl said:


> *T&J Dozer #2&3*
> 
> Barely spiting and sputtering the last couple a days but got a little done.
> 
> Got out my bucket a treads for the dozer and the parts were cut out but still need the holes the treads and the alignment blocks so a ton a work still to be done on them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will be walnut treads but also had some mahogany one made up so used one of the mahogany treats to make a drilling jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just drilled through the one side then flipped the jig over and did the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> Build note *When drilling and then putting the tread together if the dowels are too tight the treads may seem to lock up or when you have ten or more together it wants to turn and or not lay down flat, you will need to drill the inside hole a 1/32 bigger and this will give the dowels a little extra clearance.
> They will now lay down flat and be loss like a snake.
> 
> I then made a jig to guide me as I glued on the guide blocks.
> slide the tread under the jig put some super glue on the block set it next to the guide then wait a few seconds and slid it out and clamp.
> I glued the two guide blocks to the mahogany tread then clamped to the table.
> 
> I didn't take pictures but for the traction treads I cut a groove for the treads to fit in for strength but more to guide the small parts to line up
> There's pictures of this in my excavator blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> This time I just modified some store bought wheels.
> 
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> 
> Some of these last shots are just parts set so you can see whats going on but will leave loss so I can add more parts and make for easier sanding.
> 
> 
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> 
> Hope this is helpful to others.


diggerdelaney Tracks is a whole other project, on the one hand I love em but man there's a lot a work to get it right.
PS make sure you make extras because there will be buggers!!!


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *T&J Dozer #2&3*
> 
> Barely spiting and sputtering the last couple a days but got a little done.
> 
> Got out my bucket a treads for the dozer and the parts were cut out but still need the holes the treads and the alignment blocks so a ton a work still to be done on them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will be walnut treads but also had some mahogany one made up so used one of the mahogany treats to make a drilling jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just drilled through the one side then flipped the jig over and did the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> Build note *When drilling and then putting the tread together if the dowels are too tight the treads may seem to lock up or when you have ten or more together it wants to turn and or not lay down flat, you will need to drill the inside hole a 1/32 bigger and this will give the dowels a little extra clearance.
> They will now lay down flat and be loss like a snake.
> 
> I then made a jig to guide me as I glued on the guide blocks.
> slide the tread under the jig put some super glue on the block set it next to the guide then wait a few seconds and slid it out and clamp.
> I glued the two guide blocks to the mahogany tread then clamped to the table.
> 
> I didn't take pictures but for the traction treads I cut a groove for the treads to fit in for strength but more to guide the small parts to line up
> There's pictures of this in my excavator blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> This time I just modified some store bought wheels.
> 
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> 
> Some of these last shots are just parts set so you can see whats going on but will leave loss so I can add more parts and make for easier sanding.
> 
> 
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> 
> Hope this is helpful to others.


yes I made 62 but then I used 50 of them ….....looks real nice Bruce …... I can tell its going to be another nice 1 …... GREAT JOB
ALSO for the little 1/2 inch long pieces after I had all 25 together I just clamped down a longer straight edge and had them pieces glued in no time at all


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *T&J Dozer #2&3*
> 
> Barely spiting and sputtering the last couple a days but got a little done.
> 
> Got out my bucket a treads for the dozer and the parts were cut out but still need the holes the treads and the alignment blocks so a ton a work still to be done on them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will be walnut treads but also had some mahogany one made up so used one of the mahogany treats to make a drilling jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just drilled through the one side then flipped the jig over and did the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> Build note *When drilling and then putting the tread together if the dowels are too tight the treads may seem to lock up or when you have ten or more together it wants to turn and or not lay down flat, you will need to drill the inside hole a 1/32 bigger and this will give the dowels a little extra clearance.
> They will now lay down flat and be loss like a snake.
> 
> I then made a jig to guide me as I glued on the guide blocks.
> slide the tread under the jig put some super glue on the block set it next to the guide then wait a few seconds and slid it out and clamp.
> I glued the two guide blocks to the mahogany tread then clamped to the table.
> 
> I didn't take pictures but for the traction treads I cut a groove for the treads to fit in for strength but more to guide the small parts to line up
> There's pictures of this in my excavator blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> This time I just modified some store bought wheels.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of these last shots are just parts set so you can see whats going on but will leave loss so I can add more parts and make for easier sanding.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Hope this is helpful to others.





> ALSO for the little 1/2 inch long pieces after I had all 25 together I just clamped down a longer straight edge and had them pieces glued in no time at all
> 
> - GR8HUNTER


I had read about doing it that way and had forgoten the tip.
*NOW YOU REMIND ME!!! LOL*


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *T&J Dozer #2&3*
> 
> Barely spiting and sputtering the last couple a days but got a little done.
> 
> Got out my bucket a treads for the dozer and the parts were cut out but still need the holes the treads and the alignment blocks so a ton a work still to be done on them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will be walnut treads but also had some mahogany one made up so used one of the mahogany treats to make a drilling jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just drilled through the one side then flipped the jig over and did the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> Build note *When drilling and then putting the tread together if the dowels are too tight the treads may seem to lock up or when you have ten or more together it wants to turn and or not lay down flat, you will need to drill the inside hole a 1/32 bigger and this will give the dowels a little extra clearance.
> They will now lay down flat and be loss like a snake.
> 
> I then made a jig to guide me as I glued on the guide blocks.
> slide the tread under the jig put some super glue on the block set it next to the guide then wait a few seconds and slid it out and clamp.
> I glued the two guide blocks to the mahogany tread then clamped to the table.
> 
> I didn't take pictures but for the traction treads I cut a groove for the treads to fit in for strength but more to guide the small parts to line up
> There's pictures of this in my excavator blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I just modified some store bought wheels.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of these last shots are just parts set so you can see whats going on but will leave loss so I can add more parts and make for easier sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Hope this is helpful to others.


sorry (


----------



## Redoak49

htl said:


> *T&J Dozer #2&3*
> 
> Barely spiting and sputtering the last couple a days but got a little done.
> 
> Got out my bucket a treads for the dozer and the parts were cut out but still need the holes the treads and the alignment blocks so a ton a work still to be done on them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will be walnut treads but also had some mahogany one made up so used one of the mahogany treats to make a drilling jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just drilled through the one side then flipped the jig over and did the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> Build note *When drilling and then putting the tread together if the dowels are too tight the treads may seem to lock up or when you have ten or more together it wants to turn and or not lay down flat, you will need to drill the inside hole a 1/32 bigger and this will give the dowels a little extra clearance.
> They will now lay down flat and be loss like a snake.
> 
> I then made a jig to guide me as I glued on the guide blocks.
> slide the tread under the jig put some super glue on the block set it next to the guide then wait a few seconds and slid it out and clamp.
> I glued the two guide blocks to the mahogany tread then clamped to the table.
> 
> I didn't take pictures but for the traction treads I cut a groove for the treads to fit in for strength but more to guide the small parts to line up
> There's pictures of this in my excavator blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I just modified some store bought wheels.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of these last shots are just parts set so you can see whats going on but will leave loss so I can add more parts and make for easier sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Hope this is helpful to others.


Good job and great post about how it is done.

I have seen so many great models that I am starting to think about trying a simple one.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *T&J Dozer #2&3*
> 
> Barely spiting and sputtering the last couple a days but got a little done.
> 
> Got out my bucket a treads for the dozer and the parts were cut out but still need the holes the treads and the alignment blocks so a ton a work still to be done on them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will be walnut treads but also had some mahogany one made up so used one of the mahogany treats to make a drilling jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just drilled through the one side then flipped the jig over and did the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> Build note *When drilling and then putting the tread together if the dowels are too tight the treads may seem to lock up or when you have ten or more together it wants to turn and or not lay down flat, you will need to drill the inside hole a 1/32 bigger and this will give the dowels a little extra clearance.
> They will now lay down flat and be loss like a snake.
> 
> I then made a jig to guide me as I glued on the guide blocks.
> slide the tread under the jig put some super glue on the block set it next to the guide then wait a few seconds and slid it out and clamp.
> I glued the two guide blocks to the mahogany tread then clamped to the table.
> 
> I didn't take pictures but for the traction treads I cut a groove for the treads to fit in for strength but more to guide the small parts to line up
> There's pictures of this in my excavator blog.
> 
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> This time I just modified some store bought wheels.
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> Some of these last shots are just parts set so you can see whats going on but will leave loss so I can add more parts and make for easier sanding.
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> Hope this is helpful to others.


Redoak from what I'm seeing of your work you'd end up with one nice model for sure, so get to it. lol


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *T&J Dozer #2&3*
> 
> Barely spiting and sputtering the last couple a days but got a little done.
> 
> Got out my bucket a treads for the dozer and the parts were cut out but still need the holes the treads and the alignment blocks so a ton a work still to be done on them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will be walnut treads but also had some mahogany one made up so used one of the mahogany treats to make a drilling jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just drilled through the one side then flipped the jig over and did the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> Build note *When drilling and then putting the tread together if the dowels are too tight the treads may seem to lock up or when you have ten or more together it wants to turn and or not lay down flat, you will need to drill the inside hole a 1/32 bigger and this will give the dowels a little extra clearance.
> They will now lay down flat and be loss like a snake.
> 
> I then made a jig to guide me as I glued on the guide blocks.
> slide the tread under the jig put some super glue on the block set it next to the guide then wait a few seconds and slid it out and clamp.
> I glued the two guide blocks to the mahogany tread then clamped to the table.
> 
> I didn't take pictures but for the traction treads I cut a groove for the treads to fit in for strength but more to guide the small parts to line up
> There's pictures of this in my excavator blog.
> 
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> This time I just modified some store bought wheels.
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> 
> Some of these last shots are just parts set so you can see whats going on but will leave loss so I can add more parts and make for easier sanding.
> 
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> Hope this is helpful to others.


Nice detail #4. Couple of good hints. Last few pictures look impressive. A bit of oil on it will work better than on popcorn.

Now a couple of serious questions…

???


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *T&J Dozer #2&3*
> 
> Barely spiting and sputtering the last couple a days but got a little done.
> 
> Got out my bucket a treads for the dozer and the parts were cut out but still need the holes the treads and the alignment blocks so a ton a work still to be done on them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will be walnut treads but also had some mahogany one made up so used one of the mahogany treats to make a drilling jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just drilled through the one side then flipped the jig over and did the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> Build note *When drilling and then putting the tread together if the dowels are too tight the treads may seem to lock up or when you have ten or more together it wants to turn and or not lay down flat, you will need to drill the inside hole a 1/32 bigger and this will give the dowels a little extra clearance.
> They will now lay down flat and be loss like a snake.
> 
> I then made a jig to guide me as I glued on the guide blocks.
> slide the tread under the jig put some super glue on the block set it next to the guide then wait a few seconds and slid it out and clamp.
> I glued the two guide blocks to the mahogany tread then clamped to the table.
> 
> I didn't take pictures but for the traction treads I cut a groove for the treads to fit in for strength but more to guide the small parts to line up
> There's pictures of this in my excavator blog.
> 
> 
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> 
> This time I just modified some store bought wheels.
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> 
> Some of these last shots are just parts set so you can see whats going on but will leave loss so I can add more parts and make for easier sanding.
> 
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> 
> Hope this is helpful to others.





> Now a couple of serious questions…
> 
> - LittleBlackDuck


You didn't really believe me???

I lied, have got some questions…

Did you fill the engine block kerfs? Stringing or putty?
Are those large wheels pre-fab T & J, T & J customisation or a SS/#4 creation. Did you buy the kit?
Where do you buy tattered sand paper (pic #1).


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *T&J Dozer #2&3*
> 
> Barely spiting and sputtering the last couple a days but got a little done.
> 
> Got out my bucket a treads for the dozer and the parts were cut out but still need the holes the treads and the alignment blocks so a ton a work still to be done on them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will be walnut treads but also had some mahogany one made up so used one of the mahogany treats to make a drilling jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just drilled through the one side then flipped the jig over and did the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> Build note *When drilling and then putting the tread together if the dowels are too tight the treads may seem to lock up or when you have ten or more together it wants to turn and or not lay down flat, you will need to drill the inside hole a 1/32 bigger and this will give the dowels a little extra clearance.
> They will now lay down flat and be loss like a snake.
> 
> I then made a jig to guide me as I glued on the guide blocks.
> slide the tread under the jig put some super glue on the block set it next to the guide then wait a few seconds and slid it out and clamp.
> I glued the two guide blocks to the mahogany tread then clamped to the table.
> 
> I didn't take pictures but for the traction treads I cut a groove for the treads to fit in for strength but more to guide the small parts to line up
> There's pictures of this in my excavator blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> This time I just modified some store bought wheels.
> 
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> 
> Some of these last shots are just parts set so you can see whats going on but will leave loss so I can add more parts and make for easier sanding.
> 
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> 
> Hope this is helpful to others.


I GOT the kit from T&J s but turned the groove on my lathe ….. I used an old independent 4 jaw chuck a 3/8 inch all thread made a wooden spacer put wheel on then a fender washer then a nut …....not too much fun with independent chuck


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *T&J Dozer #2&3*
> 
> Barely spiting and sputtering the last couple a days but got a little done.
> 
> Got out my bucket a treads for the dozer and the parts were cut out but still need the holes the treads and the alignment blocks so a ton a work still to be done on them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will be walnut treads but also had some mahogany one made up so used one of the mahogany treats to make a drilling jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just drilled through the one side then flipped the jig over and did the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> Build note *When drilling and then putting the tread together if the dowels are too tight the treads may seem to lock up or when you have ten or more together it wants to turn and or not lay down flat, you will need to drill the inside hole a 1/32 bigger and this will give the dowels a little extra clearance.
> They will now lay down flat and be loss like a snake.
> 
> I then made a jig to guide me as I glued on the guide blocks.
> slide the tread under the jig put some super glue on the block set it next to the guide then wait a few seconds and slid it out and clamp.
> I glued the two guide blocks to the mahogany tread then clamped to the table.
> 
> I didn't take pictures but for the traction treads I cut a groove for the treads to fit in for strength but more to guide the small parts to line up
> There's pictures of this in my excavator blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> This time I just modified some store bought wheels.
> 
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> 
> Some of these last shots are just parts set so you can see whats going on but will leave loss so I can add more parts and make for easier sanding.
> 
> 
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> 
> Hope this is helpful to others.


1. Look at third to last picture, the flash in the other pictures makes it look like their filled up.
2. I don't need to buy kits, Hobby Lobby to the rescue. Just 2" store bought tires.
All I can say is remember my video and do it in steps? Quite simple and fast.
I was tempted to try putting a little angle on the sides but thought better of it , may be next time.
3. I make my own, and it takes a lot a practice.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *T&J Dozer #2&3*
> 
> Barely spiting and sputtering the last couple a days but got a little done.
> 
> Got out my bucket a treads for the dozer and the parts were cut out but still need the holes the treads and the alignment blocks so a ton a work still to be done on them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will be walnut treads but also had some mahogany one made up so used one of the mahogany treats to make a drilling jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just drilled through the one side then flipped the jig over and did the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> Build note *When drilling and then putting the tread together if the dowels are too tight the treads may seem to lock up or when you have ten or more together it wants to turn and or not lay down flat, you will need to drill the inside hole a 1/32 bigger and this will give the dowels a little extra clearance.
> They will now lay down flat and be loss like a snake.
> 
> I then made a jig to guide me as I glued on the guide blocks.
> slide the tread under the jig put some super glue on the block set it next to the guide then wait a few seconds and slid it out and clamp.
> I glued the two guide blocks to the mahogany tread then clamped to the table.
> 
> I didn't take pictures but for the traction treads I cut a groove for the treads to fit in for strength but more to guide the small parts to line up
> There's pictures of this in my excavator blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> This time I just modified some store bought wheels.
> 
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> 
> Some of these last shots are just parts set so you can see whats going on but will leave loss so I can add more parts and make for easier sanding.
> 
> 
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> 
> Hope this is helpful to others.


This is one awesome build sir….


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *T&J Dozer #2&3*
> 
> Barely spiting and sputtering the last couple a days but got a little done.
> 
> Got out my bucket a treads for the dozer and the parts were cut out but still need the holes the treads and the alignment blocks so a ton a work still to be done on them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will be walnut treads but also had some mahogany one made up so used one of the mahogany treats to make a drilling jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just drilled through the one side then flipped the jig over and did the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> Build note *When drilling and then putting the tread together if the dowels are too tight the treads may seem to lock up or when you have ten or more together it wants to turn and or not lay down flat, you will need to drill the inside hole a 1/32 bigger and this will give the dowels a little extra clearance.
> They will now lay down flat and be loss like a snake.
> 
> I then made a jig to guide me as I glued on the guide blocks.
> slide the tread under the jig put some super glue on the block set it next to the guide then wait a few seconds and slid it out and clamp.
> I glued the two guide blocks to the mahogany tread then clamped to the table.
> 
> I didn't take pictures but for the traction treads I cut a groove for the treads to fit in for strength but more to guide the small parts to line up
> There's pictures of this in my excavator blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> This time I just modified some store bought wheels.
> 
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> 
> 
> Some of these last shots are just parts set so you can see whats going on but will leave loss so I can add more parts and make for easier sanding.
> 
> 
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> 
> Hope this is helpful to others.





> ... All I can say is remember my video and do it in steps?...
> 
> - htl


??? Sorry #4. I may be small in brain cell count, but great at not using those few. I cannot remember you making any videos. To same me grief, from that benign disease of copious *re-reading *(please b merciful), any chance of a fast-track (no not a mono-rail for the loco's) but a link. 


> 3. I make my own, and it takes a lot a practice.
> 
> - htl


Just like your wheel making… you've mastered it.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *T&J Dozer #2&3*
> 
> Barely spiting and sputtering the last couple a days but got a little done.
> 
> Got out my bucket a treads for the dozer and the parts were cut out but still need the holes the treads and the alignment blocks so a ton a work still to be done on them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will be walnut treads but also had some mahogany one made up so used one of the mahogany treats to make a drilling jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just drilled through the one side then flipped the jig over and did the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> Build note *When drilling and then putting the tread together if the dowels are too tight the treads may seem to lock up or when you have ten or more together it wants to turn and or not lay down flat, you will need to drill the inside hole a 1/32 bigger and this will give the dowels a little extra clearance.
> They will now lay down flat and be loss like a snake.
> 
> I then made a jig to guide me as I glued on the guide blocks.
> slide the tread under the jig put some super glue on the block set it next to the guide then wait a few seconds and slid it out and clamp.
> I glued the two guide blocks to the mahogany tread then clamped to the table.
> 
> I didn't take pictures but for the traction treads I cut a groove for the treads to fit in for strength but more to guide the small parts to line up
> There's pictures of this in my excavator blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I just modified some store bought wheels.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Some of these last shots are just parts set so you can see whats going on but will leave loss so I can add more parts and make for easier sanding.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Hope this is helpful to others.


Ok!!!
It was when I made the truck tire grooves.

The one thing I did different was clamp a board in front of the blade to help the tire not move forward.
And as I said I did it 1/8" cuts at a time.

Video http://vid1273.photobucket.com/albums/y409/heretolearn7/MVI_3119_zpsialqq9nr.mp4


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *T&J Dozer #2&3*
> 
> Barely spiting and sputtering the last couple a days but got a little done.
> 
> Got out my bucket a treads for the dozer and the parts were cut out but still need the holes the treads and the alignment blocks so a ton a work still to be done on them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will be walnut treads but also had some mahogany one made up so used one of the mahogany treats to make a drilling jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just drilled through the one side then flipped the jig over and did the other side.
> 
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> *
> Build note *When drilling and then putting the tread together if the dowels are too tight the treads may seem to lock up or when you have ten or more together it wants to turn and or not lay down flat, you will need to drill the inside hole a 1/32 bigger and this will give the dowels a little extra clearance.
> They will now lay down flat and be loss like a snake.
> 
> I then made a jig to guide me as I glued on the guide blocks.
> slide the tread under the jig put some super glue on the block set it next to the guide then wait a few seconds and slid it out and clamp.
> I glued the two guide blocks to the mahogany tread then clamped to the table.
> 
> I didn't take pictures but for the traction treads I cut a groove for the treads to fit in for strength but more to guide the small parts to line up
> There's pictures of this in my excavator blog.
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> This time I just modified some store bought wheels.
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> Some of these last shots are just parts set so you can see whats going on but will leave loss so I can add more parts and make for easier sanding.
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> Hope this is helpful to others.


Thx #4. I remember it now. I need things like that to remind me. The memory is not too good nowadays… when I go to the toilet is the reminder that I've had something to eat before… I know TMI… It's only when I get a moon slap on the back of the head that I recall I'm still married.


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## htl

htl said:


> *T&J Dozer #2&3*
> 
> Barely spiting and sputtering the last couple a days but got a little done.
> 
> Got out my bucket a treads for the dozer and the parts were cut out but still need the holes the treads and the alignment blocks so a ton a work still to be done on them.
> 
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> 
> These will be walnut treads but also had some mahogany one made up so used one of the mahogany treats to make a drilling jig.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> I just drilled through the one side then flipped the jig over and did the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> Build note *When drilling and then putting the tread together if the dowels are too tight the treads may seem to lock up or when you have ten or more together it wants to turn and or not lay down flat, you will need to drill the inside hole a 1/32 bigger and this will give the dowels a little extra clearance.
> They will now lay down flat and be loss like a snake.
> 
> I then made a jig to guide me as I glued on the guide blocks.
> slide the tread under the jig put some super glue on the block set it next to the guide then wait a few seconds and slid it out and clamp.
> I glued the two guide blocks to the mahogany tread then clamped to the table.
> 
> I didn't take pictures but for the traction treads I cut a groove for the treads to fit in for strength but more to guide the small parts to line up
> There's pictures of this in my excavator blog.
> 
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> This time I just modified some store bought wheels.
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> Some of these last shots are just parts set so you can see whats going on but will leave loss so I can add more parts and make for easier sanding.
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> Hope this is helpful to others.


Ducky I really had to do some digging to remember when and where I used it so no problemo.


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## htl

*T&J Dozer #4*

Got a few more things done or at least heading in that direction.
Worked on the fuel tanks and got the base for it ready..


























Then on to one of the funner things to make.









Clamped down some boards at just the right angle and by raising the blade about an 1/16" at a time cut out the blade.

The project is finished find the post HERE.































































It's getting there won't be long now.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *T&J Dozer #4*
> 
> Got a few more things done or at least heading in that direction.
> Worked on the fuel tanks and got the base for it ready..
> 
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> 
> Then on to one of the funner things to make.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Clamped down some boards at just the right angle and by raising the blade about an 1/16" at a time cut out the blade.
> 
> The project is finished find the post HERE.
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> It's getting there won't be long now.


Love the laminated timbers and thank you for showing how you made the blade


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *T&J Dozer #4*
> 
> Got a few more things done or at least heading in that direction.
> Worked on the fuel tanks and got the base for it ready..
> 
> 
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> Then on to one of the funner things to make.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped down some boards at just the right angle and by raising the blade about an 1/16" at a time cut out the blade.
> 
> The project is finished find the post HERE.
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> It's getting there won't be long now.


looks really nice Bruce …....was fun making that blade …....... but I was a little paranoid …...... I used to shoes also to hold it down …....LMAO …........CANT WAIT to see it with finish


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## htl

htl said:


> *T&J Dozer #4*
> 
> Got a few more things done or at least heading in that direction.
> Worked on the fuel tanks and got the base for it ready..
> 
> 
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> 
> Then on to one of the funner things to make.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped down some boards at just the right angle and by raising the blade about an 1/16" at a time cut out the blade.
> 
> The project is finished find the post HERE.
> 
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> It's getting there won't be long now.


Thanks crowie.



> looks really nice Bruce …....was fun making that blade …....... but I was a little paranoid …...... I used to shoes also to hold it down …....LMAO …........CANT WAIT to see it with finish
> 
> - GR8HUNTER


It really can be scary but the less wood you cut out at a time the smoother it works so don't get in a big hurry is my best advice..
A friend of mine does this for whole cabinet sets, making crown molding.
Here's some I made for a chifferobe.
It was a long time ago but seems like I made three, 6' lengths to do it.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *T&J Dozer #4*
> 
> Got a few more things done or at least heading in that direction.
> Worked on the fuel tanks and got the base for it ready..
> 
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> 
> Then on to one of the funner things to make.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped down some boards at just the right angle and by raising the blade about an 1/16" at a time cut out the blade.
> 
> The project is finished find the post HERE.
> 
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> It's getting there won't be long now.


Like *crowie* said, Love the laminated timber. I'm too lazy to do it but that doesn't mean I cant admire it in other people's work.

Talking about laminate… You had me going in admiring your forward thought of the walnut blade tip in picture 4. 
As I was formulating the praises in my response, I noticed it missing from the cut (following pictures) and felt disappointed. Nevertheless it does look great.


> .......was* fun *making that blade ….......
> 
> - GR8HUNTER


Here we go again… using *that word *loosely.

While I haven't made this model, I made the grader which uses the same principle… and I was crapping myself all the way throuh… *Challenging*.. hmm,* interesting*.. hmm or maybe even *clever*... but certainly not *fun*... The* fun *part was reaching the count of *10* when checking my fingers after the cut…
But I do agree you sit back with a proud sense of achievement….., *when finished*.

*PS.* Like the *demon* protecting the chifferobe.


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## htl

htl said:


> *T&J Dozer #4*
> 
> Got a few more things done or at least heading in that direction.
> Worked on the fuel tanks and got the base for it ready..
> 
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> 
> Then on to one of the funner things to make.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped down some boards at just the right angle and by raising the blade about an 1/16" at a time cut out the blade.
> 
> The project is finished find the post HERE.
> 
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> It's getting there won't be long now.


He's been doing his job for 30 something years.


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## htl

htl said:


> *T&J Dozer #4*
> 
> Got a few more things done or at least heading in that direction.
> Worked on the fuel tanks and got the base for it ready..
> 
> 
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> 
> Then on to one of the funner things to make.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped down some boards at just the right angle and by raising the blade about an 1/16" at a time cut out the blade.
> 
> The project is finished find the post HERE.
> 
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> It's getting there won't be long now.


*"Talking about laminate… You had me going in admiring your forward thought of the walnut blade tip in picture 4. 
As I was formulating the praises in my response, I noticed it missing from the cut (following pictures) and felt disappointed. Nevertheless it does look great." 
*

Ducky Look at it again and think how deeply I would have had to cut into the wood to do it all at once, plus I didn't think about the walnut blade tip till it was cut and the notion hit me.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *T&J Dozer #4*
> 
> Got a few more things done or at least heading in that direction.
> Worked on the fuel tanks and got the base for it ready..
> 
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> 
> Then on to one of the funner things to make.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Clamped down some boards at just the right angle and by raising the blade about an 1/16" at a time cut out the blade.
> 
> The project is finished find the post HERE.
> 
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> It's getting there won't be long now.


Is he the vicious one…? Looks like the dust is too afraid from landing on the top of the cabinet, or has the boss (Mrs. #4) organised a "tidy" for the photo shoot?


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## htl

htl said:


> *T&J Dozer #4*
> 
> Got a few more things done or at least heading in that direction.
> Worked on the fuel tanks and got the base for it ready..
> 
> 
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> 
> Then on to one of the funner things to make.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped down some boards at just the right angle and by raising the blade about an 1/16" at a time cut out the blade.
> 
> The project is finished find the post HERE.
> 
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> It's getting there won't be long now.


My wife is a dust buster from way back and she would appreciate the compliment.
That's one reason my many models have just about reach their limit, she doesn't want to dust them any more, so may need to find some new homes for some of my models. 
Sad but true!!!


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *T&J Dozer #4*
> 
> Got a few more things done or at least heading in that direction.
> Worked on the fuel tanks and got the base for it ready..
> 
> 
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> 
> Then on to one of the funner things to make.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Clamped down some boards at just the right angle and by raising the blade about an 1/16" at a time cut out the blade.
> 
> The project is finished find the post HERE.
> 
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> It's getting there won't be long now.





> Ducky Look at it again and think how deeply I would have had to cut into the wood to do it all at once, plus I didn t think about the walnut blade tip till it was cut and the notion hit me.
> 
> - htl


I did look at it a few times and that's why I thought it was clever as you would have had to plan it carefully to shave so much off to just get a tip. You still get "E" for effort…


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## htl

*WS Tractor Semi*

Wanted a better truck for the Low Boy so going to be playing with the Toys and Joys W S Tractor.
Got a pretty nice start on the frame today, but had to get the shop straightened up first was a total mess after the last couple a builds..
I am kinda disappointed with these plans, was hoping for a more complicated suspension kinda like on Dutchy's dump truck.
I know I could soup it up but think I'll stick with the plans for this one.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi*
> 
> Wanted a better truck for the Low Boy so going to be playing with the Toys and Joys W S Tractor.
> Got a pretty nice start on the frame today, but had to get the shop straightened up first was a total mess after the last couple a builds..
> I am kinda disappointed with these plans, was hoping for a more complicated suspension kinda like on Dutchy's dump truck.
> I know I could soup it up but think I'll stick with the plans for this one.


THANK YOU Bruce for all the extra time & effort to do the notes & photos for the blog….very much appreciated.


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## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi*
> 
> Wanted a better truck for the Low Boy so going to be playing with the Toys and Joys W S Tractor.
> Got a pretty nice start on the frame today, but had to get the shop straightened up first was a total mess after the last couple a builds..
> I am kinda disappointed with these plans, was hoping for a more complicated suspension kinda like on Dutchy's dump truck.
> I know I could soup it up but think I'll stick with the plans for this one.


Dang son, you're like Speedy Gonzales on these toys !


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi*
> 
> Wanted a better truck for the Low Boy so going to be playing with the Toys and Joys W S Tractor.
> Got a pretty nice start on the frame today, but had to get the shop straightened up first was a total mess after the last couple a builds..
> I am kinda disappointed with these plans, was hoping for a more complicated suspension kinda like on Dutchy's dump truck.
> I know I could soup it up but think I'll stick with the plans for this one.


this is a fun build …... I even put a mattress in sleeper ….took a piece of foam wrapped it in TP …..LMAO it worked 
your off to a great start on this build again


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## johnstoneb

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi*
> 
> Wanted a better truck for the Low Boy so going to be playing with the Toys and Joys W S Tractor.
> Got a pretty nice start on the frame today, but had to get the shop straightened up first was a total mess after the last couple a builds..
> I am kinda disappointed with these plans, was hoping for a more complicated suspension kinda like on Dutchy's dump truck.
> I know I could soup it up but think I'll stick with the plans for this one.


I have been a little disappointed with the suspensions on the T&J trucks. I am currently poking around with a build on the garbage truck and am disappointed with the suspension on it also. I am going to build it as the plans call for. It is giving me some ideas and will work with them on another build after I get some other projects done. Looking at your suspension they are trying to model a spring suspension. You might cut the individual piece with a curve then glue them up as a lamination and have them look a little more realistic.

You've got a good start it looks like.


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## htl

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi*
> 
> Wanted a better truck for the Low Boy so going to be playing with the Toys and Joys W S Tractor.
> Got a pretty nice start on the frame today, but had to get the shop straightened up first was a total mess after the last couple a builds..
> I am kinda disappointed with these plans, was hoping for a more complicated suspension kinda like on Dutchy's dump truck.
> I know I could soup it up but think I'll stick with the plans for this one.


John the springs are hide behind the wheels so not going to get that fancy with them.
With the T&J dump truck the back wheels are able to move over objects independently like a real truck, here their glued down but that's ok for this build. On my Mack truck build I copied the pictures of Dutchys dump truck and it worked out really well.


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## hunter71

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi*
> 
> Wanted a better truck for the Low Boy so going to be playing with the Toys and Joys W S Tractor.
> Got a pretty nice start on the frame today, but had to get the shop straightened up first was a total mess after the last couple a builds..
> I am kinda disappointed with these plans, was hoping for a more complicated suspension kinda like on Dutchy's dump truck.
> I know I could soup it up but think I'll stick with the plans for this one.


The KING of T&J's You rock man


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## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi*
> 
> Wanted a better truck for the Low Boy so going to be playing with the Toys and Joys W S Tractor.
> Got a pretty nice start on the frame today, but had to get the shop straightened up first was a total mess after the last couple a builds..
> I am kinda disappointed with these plans, was hoping for a more complicated suspension kinda like on Dutchy's dump truck.
> I know I could soup it up but think I'll stick with the plans for this one.


This ..
.
.








.
.
.
Reminds me of these old toys…
.
.


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## htl

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi*
> 
> Wanted a better truck for the Low Boy so going to be playing with the Toys and Joys W S Tractor.
> Got a pretty nice start on the frame today, but had to get the shop straightened up first was a total mess after the last couple a builds..
> I am kinda disappointed with these plans, was hoping for a more complicated suspension kinda like on Dutchy's dump truck.
> I know I could soup it up but think I'll stick with the plans for this one.


The cool thing is the drive shaft to the transmission moves up and down as the axle moves.
Hunter I have a lot to learn but having fun figuring it out, I guess that one reason I like working on the big stuff once I get bogged down on the bumpers and lights and the like I lose interest quick.

Movable parts interest me a lot.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi*
> 
> Wanted a better truck for the Low Boy so going to be playing with the Toys and Joys W S Tractor.
> Got a pretty nice start on the frame today, but had to get the shop straightened up first was a total mess after the last couple a builds..
> I am kinda disappointed with these plans, was hoping for a more complicated suspension kinda like on Dutchy's dump truck.
> I know I could soup it up but think I'll stick with the plans for this one.


MOVEABLE parts is what helps bring it to life …....... well and finish …....LMAO
LIKE to do a model with opening doors


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## htl

*WS Tractor Semi #2*

Building diesel tanks and gluing up axles.
Over a year ago I scrounged up a wood porch umbrella pole and it has come in really handy for building gas tanks and air compressor tanks being that it's 1 1/2", has a really nice grain pattern.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi #2*
> 
> Building diesel tanks and gluing up axles.
> Over a year ago I scrounged up a wood porch umbrella pole and it has come in really handy for building gas tanks and air compressor tanks being that it's 1 1/2", has a really nice grain pattern.


Looks quite scary doing the tank grooves in the drop-saw Brian but no evidence of misadventure so all good.

Again THANK YOU for the HOW TO photos series in the blog, much appreciated….


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## htl

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi #2*
> 
> Building diesel tanks and gluing up axles.
> Over a year ago I scrounged up a wood porch umbrella pole and it has come in really handy for building gas tanks and air compressor tanks being that it's 1 1/2", has a really nice grain pattern.


Crowie I'm only cutting 1/8 of an inch, the saw has a stop lever so you can set it to whatever level you need.
I would have done it on the table saw and then hit on using the miter saw, feels much safer to me.
Here's something else I used this with.


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## htl

*WS Tractor Semi #3*

Finally got back to building my truck.
Using oak and walnut for this build just love the way the grain in the oak shows up in these models.
Needed to cut out the engine compartment. 
Wanted it cut in one pass so it would be nise and smooth so the clamp keeps it from being able to move.






















































Next up was the grill and made some doors..


















Then on to the dash board and finish the inside so I could close it up..


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi #3*
> 
> Finally got back to building my truck.
> Using oak and walnut for this build just love the way the grain in the oak shows up in these models.
> Needed to cut out the engine compartment.
> Wanted it cut in one pass so it would be nise and smooth so the clamp keeps it from being able to move.
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> Then on to the dash board and finish the inside so I could close it up..


looks like your well on your way Bruce ….. should be done in 2 days ..LMAO ,........... GREAT JOB


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## htl

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi #3*
> 
> Finally got back to building my truck.
> Using oak and walnut for this build just love the way the grain in the oak shows up in these models.
> Needed to cut out the engine compartment.
> Wanted it cut in one pass so it would be nise and smooth so the clamp keeps it from being able to move.
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> Then on to the dash board and finish the inside so I could close it up..


Ya!!! That's right then I need to start on the wheels. AAAAAAAaaaa!!!!!!!!!
I'm going to have to mix up a batch of that tire blacker upper.


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi #3*
> 
> Finally got back to building my truck.
> Using oak and walnut for this build just love the way the grain in the oak shows up in these models.
> Needed to cut out the engine compartment.
> Wanted it cut in one pass so it would be nise and smooth so the clamp keeps it from being able to move.
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> Next up was the grill and made some doors..
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> Then on to the dash board and finish the inside so I could close it up..


Looking very nice-and a whole lot of work left!


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## crowie

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi #3*
> 
> Finally got back to building my truck.
> Using oak and walnut for this build just love the way the grain in the oak shows up in these models.
> Needed to cut out the engine compartment.
> Wanted it cut in one pass so it would be nise and smooth so the clamp keeps it from being able to move.
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> Next up was the grill and made some doors..
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> Then on to the dash board and finish the inside so I could close it up..


That is looking real good Brian and with the top photos of how you did it, you make it look so easy….thank you!


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi #3*
> 
> Finally got back to building my truck.
> Using oak and walnut for this build just love the way the grain in the oak shows up in these models.
> Needed to cut out the engine compartment.
> Wanted it cut in one pass so it would be nise and smooth so the clamp keeps it from being able to move.
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> Next up was the grill and made some doors..
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> Then on to the dash board and finish the inside so I could close it up..


looking good Bruce.


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## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi #3*
> 
> Finally got back to building my truck.
> Using oak and walnut for this build just love the way the grain in the oak shows up in these models.
> Needed to cut out the engine compartment.
> Wanted it cut in one pass so it would be nise and smooth so the clamp keeps it from being able to move.
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> Next up was the grill and made some doors..
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> Then on to the dash board and finish the inside so I could close it up..


I'm surprised you didn't do the wheels FIRST !


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## htl

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi #3*
> 
> Finally got back to building my truck.
> Using oak and walnut for this build just love the way the grain in the oak shows up in these models.
> Needed to cut out the engine compartment.
> Wanted it cut in one pass so it would be nise and smooth so the clamp keeps it from being able to move.
> 
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> Next up was the grill and made some doors..
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> Then on to the dash board and finish the inside so I could close it up..


Joe For some reason maybe I know how now and not in any hurry to start that project again but I will I want some black tired wheels to match my lowboy trailer.. lol


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## bruce317

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi #3*
> 
> Finally got back to building my truck.
> Using oak and walnut for this build just love the way the grain in the oak shows up in these models.
> Needed to cut out the engine compartment.
> Wanted it cut in one pass so it would be nise and smooth so the clamp keeps it from being able to move.
> 
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> Next up was the grill and made some doors..
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> Then on to the dash board and finish the inside so I could close it up..


Bruce, The start of another great one. Love the seats.


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi #3*
> 
> Finally got back to building my truck.
> Using oak and walnut for this build just love the way the grain in the oak shows up in these models.
> Needed to cut out the engine compartment.
> Wanted it cut in one pass so it would be nise and smooth so the clamp keeps it from being able to move.
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> Next up was the grill and made some doors..
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> Then on to the dash board and finish the inside so I could close it up..


Looking good I like those seat cover colors.


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## htl

*WS Tractor Semi Fenders and cab*

I thought it was supposed to cool off a little this week but I think they lied cause it's hot out there!!!
Me and fenders don't get a long, I plays the same trick I did last time and made them backwards???
In my mind any part that's thin at one end should be the front and it gets me in trouble with these fenders every time. lol with a couple a GRRRR in there.
But never fear I finally got it straight.



























Took the wheels off the woodie to check it out.

From what I see here I may make the wheels a little extra big to fill in some of that space.
The funny thing is if I had gone strictly by the plans there would be even more space.










Going off plans a little bit here.


















Haven't figured out the top yet but it's coming along.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi Fenders and cab*
> 
> I thought it was supposed to cool off a little this week but I think they lied cause it's hot out there!!!
> Me and fenders don't get a long, I plays the same trick I did last time and made them backwards???
> In my mind any part that's thin at one end should be the front and it gets me in trouble with these fenders every time. lol with a couple a GRRRR in there.
> But never fear I finally got it straight.
> 
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> Took the wheels off the woodie to check it out.
> 
> From what I see here I may make the wheels a little extra big to fill in some of that space.
> The funny thing is if I had gone strictly by the plans there would be even more space.
> 
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> Going off plans a little bit here.
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> Haven't figured out the top yet but it's coming along.


simply love the bumped out sleeper looks pretty nice with wheels ….......GREAT JOB


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## crowie

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi Fenders and cab*
> 
> I thought it was supposed to cool off a little this week but I think they lied cause it's hot out there!!!
> Me and fenders don't get a long, I plays the same trick I did last time and made them backwards???
> In my mind any part that's thin at one end should be the front and it gets me in trouble with these fenders every time. lol with a couple a GRRRR in there.
> But never fear I finally got it straight.
> 
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> Took the wheels off the woodie to check it out.
> 
> From what I see here I may make the wheels a little extra big to fill in some of that space.
> The funny thing is if I had gone strictly by the plans there would be even more space.
> 
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> Going off plans a little bit here.
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> Haven't figured out the top yet but it's coming along.


Now this truck is getting some style….


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## htl

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi Fenders and cab*
> 
> I thought it was supposed to cool off a little this week but I think they lied cause it's hot out there!!!
> Me and fenders don't get a long, I plays the same trick I did last time and made them backwards???
> In my mind any part that's thin at one end should be the front and it gets me in trouble with these fenders every time. lol with a couple a GRRRR in there.
> But never fear I finally got it straight.
> 
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> Took the wheels off the woodie to check it out.
> 
> From what I see here I may make the wheels a little extra big to fill in some of that space.
> The funny thing is if I had gone strictly by the plans there would be even more space.
> 
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> Going off plans a little bit here.
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> Haven't figured out the top yet but it's coming along.


Thanks Hunter and crowie!!!


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## htl

*WS Tractor Semi cab over *

This has turned into a half T&J and half scratch build.
Just got it in my head to try a cab over and this is what came of it with what scraps I had in the shop.













































There were some wild angles in this part of the build, with 45° by 30° compound angles.








The angle gauge is just on there to use the magnet to hold the wood in place for the picture.


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi cab over *
> 
> This has turned into a half T&J and half scratch build.
> Just got it in my head to try a cab over and this is what came of it with what scraps I had in the shop.
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> There were some wild angles in this part of the build, with 45° by 30° compound angles.
> 
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> 
> The angle gauge is just on there to use the magnet to hold the wood in place for the picture.


Unbelieveble what a construction/production speed!

Also this one is great.


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## htl

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi cab over *
> 
> This has turned into a half T&J and half scratch build.
> Just got it in my head to try a cab over and this is what came of it with what scraps I had in the shop.
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> There were some wild angles in this part of the build, with 45° by 30° compound angles.
> 
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> 
> 
> The angle gauge is just on there to use the magnet to hold the wood in place for the picture.


One of them coulda shoulda done some things different but hind sights 20×20 as they say but I've sure learned a lot and that's what it's all about for me.

Thanks Dutchy, I was starting to feel I was heading in the wrong direction here.


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## Northwest29

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi cab over *
> 
> This has turned into a half T&J and half scratch build.
> Just got it in my head to try a cab over and this is what came of it with what scraps I had in the shop.
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> There were some wild angles in this part of the build, with 45° by 30° compound angles.
> 
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> 
> 
> The angle gauge is just on there to use the magnet to hold the wood in place for the picture.


Lookn' good, but I agree with you your going to need much bigger tires.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi cab over *
> 
> This has turned into a half T&J and half scratch build.
> Just got it in my head to try a cab over and this is what came of it with what scraps I had in the shop.
> 
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> There were some wild angles in this part of the build, with 45° by 30° compound angles.
> 
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> 
> 
> The angle gauge is just on there to use the magnet to hold the wood in place for the picture.


Thank you Bruce for this lot of "how to" photos using a bandsaw as I've only used the dropsaw….


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi cab over *
> 
> This has turned into a half T&J and half scratch build.
> Just got it in my head to try a cab over and this is what came of it with what scraps I had in the shop.
> 
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> There were some wild angles in this part of the build, with 45° by 30° compound angles.
> 
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> 
> The angle gauge is just on there to use the magnet to hold the wood in place for the picture.


loving that sleeper Bruce ..... looks more like a real truck …....... GREAT JOB


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## SouthavenToyMaker

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi cab over *
> 
> This has turned into a half T&J and half scratch build.
> Just got it in my head to try a cab over and this is what came of it with what scraps I had in the shop.
> 
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> 
> There were some wild angles in this part of the build, with 45° by 30° compound angles.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> The angle gauge is just on there to use the magnet to hold the wood in place for the picture.


Looking good….I'm going to have to step up my game.


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## htl

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi cab over *
> 
> This has turned into a half T&J and half scratch build.
> Just got it in my head to try a cab over and this is what came of it with what scraps I had in the shop.
> 
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> 
> There were some wild angles in this part of the build, with 45° by 30° compound angles.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> The angle gauge is just on there to use the magnet to hold the wood in place for the picture.


Crowie I need to add some wood fences with stop block capability to my miter fences, much safer and more accurate..
These cheap little miters work ok? for the few times I need them but if I find I will be using it more I will be making a better one for sure.


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## htl

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi cab over *
> 
> This has turned into a half T&J and half scratch build.
> Just got it in my head to try a cab over and this is what came of it with what scraps I had in the shop.
> 
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> 
> There were some wild angles in this part of the build, with 45° by 30° compound angles.
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> 
> The angle gauge is just on there to use the magnet to hold the wood in place for the picture.


SouthavenToyMaker
I don't know why I do this to myself the plans called for a nice sleeper but no had to go off the plans and add a big sleeper that my lowboy trailer really doesn't need. LOL


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi cab over *
> 
> This has turned into a half T&J and half scratch build.
> Just got it in my head to try a cab over and this is what came of it with what scraps I had in the shop.
> 
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> 
> There were some wild angles in this part of the build, with 45° by 30° compound angles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The angle gauge is just on there to use the magnet to hold the wood in place for the picture.


Shaping up beautifully , I also agree you need to build some real heafty wheels & tires to fit this Baby.


----------



## htl

*WS Tractor Semi Making wheels*

Before I go any farther with my truck I figured I better get some wheels made so I can build the back fenders to fit since I'm going to make some slightly over sized wheels to fill in some of the space between the wheels and fenders.

I've done tire how to's before so just some pictures showing how I've change thinks up a bit.
I added a longer bolt so I can now cut treads on 3 tires at once and if I would have had a longer all thread I would have made it longer.

Thursday I cut up a board of walnut for the wheels, the funny thing here is that morning my neighbor came over and wanted to know if I wanted a shelving board he was getting out of his way and of course I said sure need me to bring my truck?
Well he come back over and it's a bowed up board[8'long] well I was working on my air filters for the model truck so just took a quick look at it and saying thanks for it thinking it was Mahogany so really!!! thanks!!, 
HuMMM wasn't really wanting mahogany wheels but hey you use what you got right!.
So yesterday I start cutting into it around the nots and splits and it hits me this doesn't smell like Mahogany this is walnut so dirty and old I didn't recognize it till I took a better look at it.

So I'm thrilled to death for this timely wood which will be just perfect for the truck wheels.

So yesterday I started cutting it up for the wheels it was so cuped I split it down the middle to help flatten it out and cut around the bad places but for model work it's just perfect once I planed it.

Used the band saw and made some wheel blanks, then to the SS to sand them round and route the outside.


















So today I dug out the wheel jig and changed it around a little and off to making treads.
This jig was made for the Hummer which has much bigger wheels but just needed to raise the blade up to adjust for that.





































I think I need to make a new jig.































































Here's the Hummer how to for the tire jig.

I know this isn't a fancy tread pattern but with only a couple a hours invested [in making the treads] it turned out just right, plus it will match up with the lowboy trailer and that's what I wanted in the first place.

Here's the steel wool vinegar stain on the new wheels, still wet.
There so black they don't even show up very well.

*Notice the toothpick, tried one to see if it would stain and it do's get some what darker.
I need to stain a box for my spokes and lug nuts for next time .*








After I cut up the walnut I was kind of upset with myself for using up the walnut for this but after seeing how dark they are walnut is the wood to use my last wheels using oak didn't come out this black.










And here they are ready for the dutch oil finish.


----------



## ralbuck

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi Making wheels*
> 
> Before I go any farther with my truck I figured I better get some wheels made so I can build the back fenders to fit since I'm going to make some slightly over sized wheels to fill in some of the space between the wheels and fenders.
> 
> I've done tire how to's before so just some pictures showing how I've change thinks up a bit.
> I added a longer bolt so I can now cut treads on 3 tires at once and if I would have had a longer all thread I would have made it longer.
> 
> Thursday I cut up a board of walnut for the wheels, the funny thing here is that morning my neighbor came over and wanted to know if I wanted a shelving board he was getting out of his way and of course I said sure need me to bring my truck?
> Well he come back over and it's a bowed up board[8'long] well I was working on my air filters for the model truck so just took a quick look at it and saying thanks for it thinking it was Mahogany so really!!! thanks!!,
> HuMMM wasn't really wanting mahogany wheels but hey you use what you got right!.
> So yesterday I start cutting into it around the nots and splits and it hits me this doesn't smell like Mahogany this is walnut so dirty and old I didn't recognize it till I took a better look at it.
> 
> So I'm thrilled to death for this timely wood which will be just perfect for the truck wheels.
> 
> So yesterday I started cutting it up for the wheels it was so cuped I split it down the middle to help flatten it out and cut around the bad places but for model work it's just perfect once I planed it.
> 
> Used the band saw and made some wheel blanks, then to the SS to sand them round and route the outside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So today I dug out the wheel jig and changed it around a little and off to making treads.
> This jig was made for the Hummer which has much bigger wheels but just needed to raise the blade up to adjust for that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> I think I need to make a new jig.
> 
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> 
> 
> Here's the Hummer how to for the tire jig.
> 
> I know this isn't a fancy tread pattern but with only a couple a hours invested [in making the treads] it turned out just right, plus it will match up with the lowboy trailer and that's what I wanted in the first place.
> 
> Here's the steel wool vinegar stain on the new wheels, still wet.
> There so black they don't even show up very well.
> 
> *Notice the toothpick, tried one to see if it would stain and it do's get some what darker.
> I need to stain a box for my spokes and lug nuts for next time .*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After I cut up the walnut I was kind of upset with myself for using up the walnut for this but after seeing how dark they are walnut is the wood to use my last wheels using oak didn't come out this black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here they are ready for the dutch oil finish.


Very nicely done!

They sure look better than purchased wheels do!


----------



## Redoak49

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi Making wheels*
> 
> Before I go any farther with my truck I figured I better get some wheels made so I can build the back fenders to fit since I'm going to make some slightly over sized wheels to fill in some of the space between the wheels and fenders.
> 
> I've done tire how to's before so just some pictures showing how I've change thinks up a bit.
> I added a longer bolt so I can now cut treads on 3 tires at once and if I would have had a longer all thread I would have made it longer.
> 
> Thursday I cut up a board of walnut for the wheels, the funny thing here is that morning my neighbor came over and wanted to know if I wanted a shelving board he was getting out of his way and of course I said sure need me to bring my truck?
> Well he come back over and it's a bowed up board[8'long] well I was working on my air filters for the model truck so just took a quick look at it and saying thanks for it thinking it was Mahogany so really!!! thanks!!,
> HuMMM wasn't really wanting mahogany wheels but hey you use what you got right!.
> So yesterday I start cutting into it around the nots and splits and it hits me this doesn't smell like Mahogany this is walnut so dirty and old I didn't recognize it till I took a better look at it.
> 
> So I'm thrilled to death for this timely wood which will be just perfect for the truck wheels.
> 
> So yesterday I started cutting it up for the wheels it was so cuped I split it down the middle to help flatten it out and cut around the bad places but for model work it's just perfect once I planed it.
> 
> Used the band saw and made some wheel blanks, then to the SS to sand them round and route the outside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So today I dug out the wheel jig and changed it around a little and off to making treads.
> This jig was made for the Hummer which has much bigger wheels but just needed to raise the blade up to adjust for that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> I think I need to make a new jig.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the Hummer how to for the tire jig.
> 
> I know this isn't a fancy tread pattern but with only a couple a hours invested [in making the treads] it turned out just right, plus it will match up with the lowboy trailer and that's what I wanted in the first place.
> 
> Here's the steel wool vinegar stain on the new wheels, still wet.
> There so black they don't even show up very well.
> 
> *Notice the toothpick, tried one to see if it would stain and it do's get some what darker.
> I need to stain a box for my spokes and lug nuts for next time .*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After I cut up the walnut I was kind of upset with myself for using up the walnut for this but after seeing how dark they are walnut is the wood to use my last wheels using oak didn't come out this black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here they are ready for the dutch oil finish.


Very nice….appreciate you taking the effort to show how you made the wheels.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi Making wheels*
> 
> Before I go any farther with my truck I figured I better get some wheels made so I can build the back fenders to fit since I'm going to make some slightly over sized wheels to fill in some of the space between the wheels and fenders.
> 
> I've done tire how to's before so just some pictures showing how I've change thinks up a bit.
> I added a longer bolt so I can now cut treads on 3 tires at once and if I would have had a longer all thread I would have made it longer.
> 
> Thursday I cut up a board of walnut for the wheels, the funny thing here is that morning my neighbor came over and wanted to know if I wanted a shelving board he was getting out of his way and of course I said sure need me to bring my truck?
> Well he come back over and it's a bowed up board[8'long] well I was working on my air filters for the model truck so just took a quick look at it and saying thanks for it thinking it was Mahogany so really!!! thanks!!,
> HuMMM wasn't really wanting mahogany wheels but hey you use what you got right!.
> So yesterday I start cutting into it around the nots and splits and it hits me this doesn't smell like Mahogany this is walnut so dirty and old I didn't recognize it till I took a better look at it.
> 
> So I'm thrilled to death for this timely wood which will be just perfect for the truck wheels.
> 
> So yesterday I started cutting it up for the wheels it was so cuped I split it down the middle to help flatten it out and cut around the bad places but for model work it's just perfect once I planed it.
> 
> Used the band saw and made some wheel blanks, then to the SS to sand them round and route the outside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So today I dug out the wheel jig and changed it around a little and off to making treads.
> This jig was made for the Hummer which has much bigger wheels but just needed to raise the blade up to adjust for that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> I think I need to make a new jig.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the Hummer how to for the tire jig.
> 
> I know this isn't a fancy tread pattern but with only a couple a hours invested [in making the treads] it turned out just right, plus it will match up with the lowboy trailer and that's what I wanted in the first place.
> 
> Here's the steel wool vinegar stain on the new wheels, still wet.
> There so black they don't even show up very well.
> 
> *Notice the toothpick, tried one to see if it would stain and it do's get some what darker.
> I need to stain a box for my spokes and lug nuts for next time .*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After I cut up the walnut I was kind of upset with myself for using up the walnut for this but after seeing how dark they are walnut is the wood to use my last wheels using oak didn't come out this black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here they are ready for the dutch oil finish.


awesome as always ….. and your like a production line …..... cant wait to see them on truck with finish …..... GREAT JOB


----------



## SouthavenToyMaker

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi Making wheels*
> 
> Before I go any farther with my truck I figured I better get some wheels made so I can build the back fenders to fit since I'm going to make some slightly over sized wheels to fill in some of the space between the wheels and fenders.
> 
> I've done tire how to's before so just some pictures showing how I've change thinks up a bit.
> I added a longer bolt so I can now cut treads on 3 tires at once and if I would have had a longer all thread I would have made it longer.
> 
> Thursday I cut up a board of walnut for the wheels, the funny thing here is that morning my neighbor came over and wanted to know if I wanted a shelving board he was getting out of his way and of course I said sure need me to bring my truck?
> Well he come back over and it's a bowed up board[8'long] well I was working on my air filters for the model truck so just took a quick look at it and saying thanks for it thinking it was Mahogany so really!!! thanks!!,
> HuMMM wasn't really wanting mahogany wheels but hey you use what you got right!.
> So yesterday I start cutting into it around the nots and splits and it hits me this doesn't smell like Mahogany this is walnut so dirty and old I didn't recognize it till I took a better look at it.
> 
> So I'm thrilled to death for this timely wood which will be just perfect for the truck wheels.
> 
> So yesterday I started cutting it up for the wheels it was so cuped I split it down the middle to help flatten it out and cut around the bad places but for model work it's just perfect once I planed it.
> 
> Used the band saw and made some wheel blanks, then to the SS to sand them round and route the outside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So today I dug out the wheel jig and changed it around a little and off to making treads.
> This jig was made for the Hummer which has much bigger wheels but just needed to raise the blade up to adjust for that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> I think I need to make a new jig.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the Hummer how to for the tire jig.
> 
> I know this isn't a fancy tread pattern but with only a couple a hours invested [in making the treads] it turned out just right, plus it will match up with the lowboy trailer and that's what I wanted in the first place.
> 
> Here's the steel wool vinegar stain on the new wheels, still wet.
> There so black they don't even show up very well.
> 
> *Notice the toothpick, tried one to see if it would stain and it do's get some what darker.
> I need to stain a box for my spokes and lug nuts for next time .*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After I cut up the walnut I was kind of upset with myself for using up the walnut for this but after seeing how dark they are walnut is the wood to use my last wheels using oak didn't come out this black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here they are ready for the dutch oil finish.


Nice score on the walnut, tires look good. Do you really spin the wheel over ylthe table blade freehand? How do keep it from being thrown at you?


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi Making wheels*
> 
> Before I go any farther with my truck I figured I better get some wheels made so I can build the back fenders to fit since I'm going to make some slightly over sized wheels to fill in some of the space between the wheels and fenders.
> 
> I've done tire how to's before so just some pictures showing how I've change thinks up a bit.
> I added a longer bolt so I can now cut treads on 3 tires at once and if I would have had a longer all thread I would have made it longer.
> 
> Thursday I cut up a board of walnut for the wheels, the funny thing here is that morning my neighbor came over and wanted to know if I wanted a shelving board he was getting out of his way and of course I said sure need me to bring my truck?
> Well he come back over and it's a bowed up board[8'long] well I was working on my air filters for the model truck so just took a quick look at it and saying thanks for it thinking it was Mahogany so really!!! thanks!!,
> HuMMM wasn't really wanting mahogany wheels but hey you use what you got right!.
> So yesterday I start cutting into it around the nots and splits and it hits me this doesn't smell like Mahogany this is walnut so dirty and old I didn't recognize it till I took a better look at it.
> 
> So I'm thrilled to death for this timely wood which will be just perfect for the truck wheels.
> 
> So yesterday I started cutting it up for the wheels it was so cuped I split it down the middle to help flatten it out and cut around the bad places but for model work it's just perfect once I planed it.
> 
> Used the band saw and made some wheel blanks, then to the SS to sand them round and route the outside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So today I dug out the wheel jig and changed it around a little and off to making treads.
> This jig was made for the Hummer which has much bigger wheels but just needed to raise the blade up to adjust for that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> I think I need to make a new jig.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the Hummer how to for the tire jig.
> 
> I know this isn't a fancy tread pattern but with only a couple a hours invested [in making the treads] it turned out just right, plus it will match up with the lowboy trailer and that's what I wanted in the first place.
> 
> Here's the steel wool vinegar stain on the new wheels, still wet.
> There so black they don't even show up very well.
> 
> *Notice the toothpick, tried one to see if it would stain and it do's get some what darker.
> I need to stain a box for my spokes and lug nuts for next time .*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After I cut up the walnut I was kind of upset with myself for using up the walnut for this but after seeing how dark they are walnut is the wood to use my last wheels using oak didn't come out this black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here they are ready for the dutch oil finish.


STM Remember I'm only cutting less than an 1/8" so not much being cut, plus look at the featherboard 3 fingers are holding the wheel against the fence plus there's one finger that the wheel is pushing against to keep it from moving forward.
I really don't need that last finger but it helps keep the wheel centered over the blade.
I have used a stop block with that finger in the past but feel comfortable without it.
The palm of my hand rests on the top of the fence at all times.
Plus i'm using a dewalt circular saw blade with 40 teeth that is really thin so not removing much wood.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi Making wheels*
> 
> Before I go any farther with my truck I figured I better get some wheels made so I can build the back fenders to fit since I'm going to make some slightly over sized wheels to fill in some of the space between the wheels and fenders.
> 
> I've done tire how to's before so just some pictures showing how I've change thinks up a bit.
> I added a longer bolt so I can now cut treads on 3 tires at once and if I would have had a longer all thread I would have made it longer.
> 
> Thursday I cut up a board of walnut for the wheels, the funny thing here is that morning my neighbor came over and wanted to know if I wanted a shelving board he was getting out of his way and of course I said sure need me to bring my truck?
> Well he come back over and it's a bowed up board[8'long] well I was working on my air filters for the model truck so just took a quick look at it and saying thanks for it thinking it was Mahogany so really!!! thanks!!,
> HuMMM wasn't really wanting mahogany wheels but hey you use what you got right!.
> So yesterday I start cutting into it around the nots and splits and it hits me this doesn't smell like Mahogany this is walnut so dirty and old I didn't recognize it till I took a better look at it.
> 
> So I'm thrilled to death for this timely wood which will be just perfect for the truck wheels.
> 
> So yesterday I started cutting it up for the wheels it was so cuped I split it down the middle to help flatten it out and cut around the bad places but for model work it's just perfect once I planed it.
> 
> Used the band saw and made some wheel blanks, then to the SS to sand them round and route the outside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So today I dug out the wheel jig and changed it around a little and off to making treads.
> This jig was made for the Hummer which has much bigger wheels but just needed to raise the blade up to adjust for that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I need to make a new jig.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the Hummer how to for the tire jig.
> 
> I know this isn't a fancy tread pattern but with only a couple a hours invested [in making the treads] it turned out just right, plus it will match up with the lowboy trailer and that's what I wanted in the first place.
> 
> Here's the steel wool vinegar stain on the new wheels, still wet.
> There so black they don't even show up very well.
> 
> *Notice the toothpick, tried one to see if it would stain and it do's get some what darker.
> I need to stain a box for my spokes and lug nuts for next time .*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After I cut up the walnut I was kind of upset with myself for using up the walnut for this but after seeing how dark they are walnut is the wood to use my last wheels using oak didn't come out this black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here they are ready for the dutch oil finish.


One more thought STM I feel much more comfortable cutting the treads on the table saw than I did shaping the side of the wheels with the router.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi Making wheels*
> 
> Before I go any farther with my truck I figured I better get some wheels made so I can build the back fenders to fit since I'm going to make some slightly over sized wheels to fill in some of the space between the wheels and fenders.
> 
> I've done tire how to's before so just some pictures showing how I've change thinks up a bit.
> I added a longer bolt so I can now cut treads on 3 tires at once and if I would have had a longer all thread I would have made it longer.
> 
> Thursday I cut up a board of walnut for the wheels, the funny thing here is that morning my neighbor came over and wanted to know if I wanted a shelving board he was getting out of his way and of course I said sure need me to bring my truck?
> Well he come back over and it's a bowed up board[8'long] well I was working on my air filters for the model truck so just took a quick look at it and saying thanks for it thinking it was Mahogany so really!!! thanks!!,
> HuMMM wasn't really wanting mahogany wheels but hey you use what you got right!.
> So yesterday I start cutting into it around the nots and splits and it hits me this doesn't smell like Mahogany this is walnut so dirty and old I didn't recognize it till I took a better look at it.
> 
> So I'm thrilled to death for this timely wood which will be just perfect for the truck wheels.
> 
> So yesterday I started cutting it up for the wheels it was so cuped I split it down the middle to help flatten it out and cut around the bad places but for model work it's just perfect once I planed it.
> 
> Used the band saw and made some wheel blanks, then to the SS to sand them round and route the outside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So today I dug out the wheel jig and changed it around a little and off to making treads.
> This jig was made for the Hummer which has much bigger wheels but just needed to raise the blade up to adjust for that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I need to make a new jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the Hummer how to for the tire jig.
> 
> I know this isn't a fancy tread pattern but with only a couple a hours invested [in making the treads] it turned out just right, plus it will match up with the lowboy trailer and that's what I wanted in the first place.
> 
> Here's the steel wool vinegar stain on the new wheels, still wet.
> There so black they don't even show up very well.
> 
> *Notice the toothpick, tried one to see if it would stain and it do's get some what darker.
> I need to stain a box for my spokes and lug nuts for next time .*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After I cut up the walnut I was kind of upset with myself for using up the walnut for this but after seeing how dark they are walnut is the wood to use my last wheels using oak didn't come out this black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here they are ready for the dutch oil finish.


I KNOW what you saying Bruce


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi Making wheels*
> 
> Before I go any farther with my truck I figured I better get some wheels made so I can build the back fenders to fit since I'm going to make some slightly over sized wheels to fill in some of the space between the wheels and fenders.
> 
> I've done tire how to's before so just some pictures showing how I've change thinks up a bit.
> I added a longer bolt so I can now cut treads on 3 tires at once and if I would have had a longer all thread I would have made it longer.
> 
> Thursday I cut up a board of walnut for the wheels, the funny thing here is that morning my neighbor came over and wanted to know if I wanted a shelving board he was getting out of his way and of course I said sure need me to bring my truck?
> Well he come back over and it's a bowed up board[8'long] well I was working on my air filters for the model truck so just took a quick look at it and saying thanks for it thinking it was Mahogany so really!!! thanks!!,
> HuMMM wasn't really wanting mahogany wheels but hey you use what you got right!.
> So yesterday I start cutting into it around the nots and splits and it hits me this doesn't smell like Mahogany this is walnut so dirty and old I didn't recognize it till I took a better look at it.
> 
> So I'm thrilled to death for this timely wood which will be just perfect for the truck wheels.
> 
> So yesterday I started cutting it up for the wheels it was so cuped I split it down the middle to help flatten it out and cut around the bad places but for model work it's just perfect once I planed it.
> 
> Used the band saw and made some wheel blanks, then to the SS to sand them round and route the outside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So today I dug out the wheel jig and changed it around a little and off to making treads.
> This jig was made for the Hummer which has much bigger wheels but just needed to raise the blade up to adjust for that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I need to make a new jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the Hummer how to for the tire jig.
> 
> I know this isn't a fancy tread pattern but with only a couple a hours invested [in making the treads] it turned out just right, plus it will match up with the lowboy trailer and that's what I wanted in the first place.
> 
> Here's the steel wool vinegar stain on the new wheels, still wet.
> There so black they don't even show up very well.
> 
> *Notice the toothpick, tried one to see if it would stain and it do's get some what darker.
> I need to stain a box for my spokes and lug nuts for next time .*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After I cut up the walnut I was kind of upset with myself for using up the walnut for this but after seeing how dark they are walnut is the wood to use my last wheels using oak didn't come out this black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here they are ready for the dutch oil finish.


Wheels, wheels, wheels.

Nice wheels and smart made.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi Making wheels*
> 
> Before I go any farther with my truck I figured I better get some wheels made so I can build the back fenders to fit since I'm going to make some slightly over sized wheels to fill in some of the space between the wheels and fenders.
> 
> I've done tire how to's before so just some pictures showing how I've change thinks up a bit.
> I added a longer bolt so I can now cut treads on 3 tires at once and if I would have had a longer all thread I would have made it longer.
> 
> Thursday I cut up a board of walnut for the wheels, the funny thing here is that morning my neighbor came over and wanted to know if I wanted a shelving board he was getting out of his way and of course I said sure need me to bring my truck?
> Well he come back over and it's a bowed up board[8'long] well I was working on my air filters for the model truck so just took a quick look at it and saying thanks for it thinking it was Mahogany so really!!! thanks!!,
> HuMMM wasn't really wanting mahogany wheels but hey you use what you got right!.
> So yesterday I start cutting into it around the nots and splits and it hits me this doesn't smell like Mahogany this is walnut so dirty and old I didn't recognize it till I took a better look at it.
> 
> So I'm thrilled to death for this timely wood which will be just perfect for the truck wheels.
> 
> So yesterday I started cutting it up for the wheels it was so cuped I split it down the middle to help flatten it out and cut around the bad places but for model work it's just perfect once I planed it.
> 
> Used the band saw and made some wheel blanks, then to the SS to sand them round and route the outside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So today I dug out the wheel jig and changed it around a little and off to making treads.
> This jig was made for the Hummer which has much bigger wheels but just needed to raise the blade up to adjust for that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I need to make a new jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the Hummer how to for the tire jig.
> 
> I know this isn't a fancy tread pattern but with only a couple a hours invested [in making the treads] it turned out just right, plus it will match up with the lowboy trailer and that's what I wanted in the first place.
> 
> Here's the steel wool vinegar stain on the new wheels, still wet.
> There so black they don't even show up very well.
> 
> *Notice the toothpick, tried one to see if it would stain and it do's get some what darker.
> I need to stain a box for my spokes and lug nuts for next time .*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After I cut up the walnut I was kind of upset with myself for using up the walnut for this but after seeing how dark they are walnut is the wood to use my last wheels using oak didn't come out this black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here they are ready for the dutch oil finish.


Hey Dutchy
YOU TALKING ABOUT MY WHEELS!!!
Don't you be talking about my wheels!!! LOL


----------



## htl

*WS Tractor Semi Getting close*

I added the staining of the tires to the last post so some may need to check that out.
Worked on rear fenders, spare tire holder,nose on motor cover.
I used oak walnut and a touch a cherry.








Fills up the wheel well nicely now.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi Getting close*
> 
> I added the staining of the tires to the last post so some may need to check that out.
> Worked on rear fenders, spare tire holder,nose on motor cover.
> I used oak walnut and a touch a cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fills up the wheel well nicely now.


don't forget the front bumper Bruce LMAO ….......looks good ….... GREAT JOB


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi Getting close*
> 
> I added the staining of the tires to the last post so some may need to check that out.
> Worked on rear fenders, spare tire holder,nose on motor cover.
> I used oak walnut and a touch a cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fills up the wheel well nicely now.


GR8H It's made just haven't put it on yet. LOL
It just hit me I need some mufflers too!
And the diesel tanks.
and the air tanks
and and and!!!


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi Getting close*
> 
> I added the staining of the tires to the last post so some may need to check that out.
> Worked on rear fenders, spare tire holder,nose on motor cover.
> I used oak walnut and a touch a cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fills up the wheel well nicely now.


Bruce, This is really looking on great truck sir…. 
Love the little extras in the detailing and the wheels look like they are real…well done.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi Getting close*
> 
> I added the staining of the tires to the last post so some may need to check that out.
> Worked on rear fenders, spare tire holder,nose on motor cover.
> I used oak walnut and a touch a cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fills up the wheel well nicely now.


You and I we can change our wheels. Looks very good Bruce.


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi Getting close*
> 
> I added the staining of the tires to the last post so some may need to check that out.
> Worked on rear fenders, spare tire holder,nose on motor cover.
> I used oak walnut and a touch a cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fills up the wheel well nicely now.


Yeah, that's right buddy. NOW it's time for the part you hate. Time for *all the little details*! !

Looking good as it is though !


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi Getting close*
> 
> I added the staining of the tires to the last post so some may need to check that out.
> Worked on rear fenders, spare tire holder,nose on motor cover.
> I used oak walnut and a touch a cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fills up the wheel well nicely now.


JoeinGa

You know me too well. LOL
I'm already looking for and think I've found my next project but the little stuff first.
*NEED TO FINISH THIS ONE FIRST!!!*


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi Getting close*
> 
> I added the staining of the tires to the last post so some may need to check that out.
> Worked on rear fenders, spare tire holder,nose on motor cover.
> I used oak walnut and a touch a cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fills up the wheel well nicely now.


HINT ??? on next project LOL


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi Getting close*
> 
> I added the staining of the tires to the last post so some may need to check that out.
> Worked on rear fenders, spare tire holder,nose on motor cover.
> I used oak walnut and a touch a cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fills up the wheel well nicely now.


GR8h remember my cattle car for the train how about one for my new truck.
May not build it but I really liked making that train car.
If I build it I would need to start storing my tools in it cause it would really take up some room.


----------



## htl

*WS Tractor Semi *

Here's the last post for the truck.
Project thread here.














































Making the mufflers.
Drill out a 5/8 dowel for muffler body.
Seems like every time I need to drill out a dowel I think up another way to do it.













































Here's a teaser for tomorrows project post.
All that work just so the trailer and truck both have the blacked out wheels.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi *
> 
> Here's the last post for the truck.
> Project thread here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the mufflers.
> Drill out a 5/8 dowel for muffler body.
> Seems like every time I need to drill out a dowel I think up another way to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a teaser for tomorrows project post.
> All that work just so the trailer and truck both have the blacked out wheels.


Very nicely done Bruce, looks good… 
I do the exhausts similar but with a vee block in the drill press….


----------



## chief101

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi *
> 
> Here's the last post for the truck.
> Project thread here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the mufflers.
> Drill out a 5/8 dowel for muffler body.
> Seems like every time I need to drill out a dowel I think up another way to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a teaser for tomorrows project post.
> All that work just so the trailer and truck both have the blacked out wheels.


Awesome job!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi *
> 
> Here's the last post for the truck.
> Project thread here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the mufflers.
> Drill out a 5/8 dowel for muffler body.
> Seems like every time I need to drill out a dowel I think up another way to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a teaser for tomorrows project post.
> All that work just so the trailer and truck both have the blacked out wheels.


I started to use a homemade v block I made out of a 2×4 last time I drilled some dowels but it was warped so went in another direction. 
Hope I can remember how I did it next time, worked out pretty good and fast.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi *
> 
> Here's the last post for the truck.
> Project thread here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the mufflers.
> Drill out a 5/8 dowel for muffler body.
> Seems like every time I need to drill out a dowel I think up another way to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a teaser for tomorrows project post.
> All that work just so the trailer and truck both have the blacked out wheels.


Deliberately holding back my comments *#4* till the project post (hope it is to come). You don't get any brownie points towards daily ratings for "posts" and some, if not most, should be up there.

Still had to comment on…

*Great* looking… (sounds stupid repeating myself *grate*).
On the topic of drilling dowels, unless I'm mistaken, don't forget to drill out the tops of the exhausts. In my early models I never used to and then when I saw others' builds and started doing it myself, so that now, solid exhaust ends stick out like dogs …. and I only have cat food in the house.
Still admire your manicurist.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi *
> 
> Here's the last post for the truck.
> Project thread here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the mufflers.
> Drill out a 5/8 dowel for muffler body.
> Seems like every time I need to drill out a dowel I think up another way to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a teaser for tomorrows project post.
> All that work just so the trailer and truck both have the blacked out wheels.


simply love this truck …......looks great all together with trailer and dozer ….... I wished there was more pics …..after finish was applied …... I like how you drilled out stacks ….....but I no have SS ( .......... I do mine on D.P. ...... .... GREAT JOB


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi *
> 
> Here's the last post for the truck.
> Project thread here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making the mufflers.
> Drill out a 5/8 dowel for muffler body.
> Seems like every time I need to drill out a dowel I think up another way to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a teaser for tomorrows project post.
> All that work just so the trailer and truck both have the blacked out wheels.


Ducky I thought about drilling out the pipes and was to far in to being done to do it. LOL

Come to think of it I did't glue the stacks in the muffler so it would not be much trouble to take them out and drill them but it's over my friend and the paints drying. LOL
GR8H tomorrow is the day.


----------



## jwmalone

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi *
> 
> Here's the last post for the truck.
> Project thread here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Making the mufflers.
> Drill out a 5/8 dowel for muffler body.
> Seems like every time I need to drill out a dowel I think up another way to do it.
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> Here's a teaser for tomorrows project post.
> All that work just so the trailer and truck both have the blacked out wheels.


That's just to damn cool. very nice.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi *
> 
> Here's the last post for the truck.
> Project thread here.
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> Making the mufflers.
> Drill out a 5/8 dowel for muffler body.
> Seems like every time I need to drill out a dowel I think up another way to do it.
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> Here's a teaser for tomorrows project post.
> All that work just so the trailer and truck both have the blacked out wheels.


#4, I'm gonna be the devils advocate… You will forever regret it if you don't (especially after this reply)... Call me dog-with-a-bone (remember the *TRACKS*???). You don't paint… (you better not) and anyway, imperial dowel is not that scarce there in the US of A.

In the words of that infamous grey-haired, 67 year old, ex-Hungarian, woodworker from the backwaters of Churchill… *Do it*.

See… If I held back my replies then it definitely would have been too late… serves you right..


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## htl

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi *
> 
> Here's the last post for the truck.
> Project thread here.
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> Making the mufflers.
> Drill out a 5/8 dowel for muffler body.
> Seems like every time I need to drill out a dowel I think up another way to do it.
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> Here's a teaser for tomorrows project post.
> All that work just so the trailer and truck both have the blacked out wheels.


Ain't doing it and not going to just NO NO NO!!! LOL

I was going to say on to bigger and better things but will probably shrink my next project back down to the 2/3 scale like I like doing.

May make one of Toys and Joys new models, *can you guess which one?*


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi *
> 
> Here's the last post for the truck.
> Project thread here.
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> Making the mufflers.
> Drill out a 5/8 dowel for muffler body.
> Seems like every time I need to drill out a dowel I think up another way to do it.
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> Here's a teaser for tomorrows project post.
> All that work just so the trailer and truck both have the blacked out wheels.





> That s just to damn *cool*. very nice.
> 
> - jwmalone


Not* cool*... *HOT*... nowhere for the exhaust gasses to escape.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi *
> 
> Here's the last post for the truck.
> Project thread here.
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> Making the mufflers.
> Drill out a 5/8 dowel for muffler body.
> Seems like every time I need to drill out a dowel I think up another way to do it.
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> Here's a teaser for tomorrows project post.
> All that work just so the trailer and truck both have the blacked out wheels.





> Ain t doing it and not going to just NO NO NO!!! LOL
> 
> - htl


Don't let me be the conscience on your shoulder… You'll buckle under my weight and leave you physically exhausted. Buckle under my whims and you'll just be mental.

(*TRACKS… TRACKS… TRACKS…)*

Hey it feels good to act like a juvenile… again…


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## htl

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi *
> 
> Here's the last post for the truck.
> Project thread here.
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> Making the mufflers.
> Drill out a 5/8 dowel for muffler body.
> Seems like every time I need to drill out a dowel I think up another way to do it.
> 
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> Here's a teaser for tomorrows project post.
> All that work just so the trailer and truck both have the blacked out wheels.


Look at that animal over your second comment, need I say more!!! LOL


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## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *WS Tractor Semi *
> 
> Here's the last post for the truck.
> Project thread here.
> 
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> Making the mufflers.
> Drill out a 5/8 dowel for muffler body.
> Seems like every time I need to drill out a dowel I think up another way to do it.
> 
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> Here's a teaser for tomorrows project post.
> All that work just so the trailer and truck both have the blacked out wheels.


The truck came out great. I really like the "lines" in the hood.


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## htl

*Power Wagon 6x6 building the frame and rear suspension*



















Here's the rear end of the Mack truck to give you an idea what i'm up to.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 building the frame and rear suspension*
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> Here's the rear end of the Mack truck to give you an idea what i'm up to.


holy cow you are 1 fast woodworking dude it would take me a day just to make the wheels and tires and then on top of it its independent rear suspension WOW


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## htl

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 building the frame and rear suspension*
> 
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> Here's the rear end of the Mack truck to give you an idea what i'm up to.


Tony the frame and suspension I built today the wheels are the two extra wheels I made for the semi last week.
Just wanted to show how it would move up and down for those that hadn't seen my mack truck build.
If everything comes out all right it will be a 6 wheel drive with 5 drive shafts.


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## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 building the frame and rear suspension*
> 
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> Here's the rear end of the Mack truck to give you an idea what i'm up to.


I see the plans show one rear axle, so you're adding a second? Pretty cool.

Just remember you'll have to extend the bed (and not use the dimensions from the plans).


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## htl

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 building the frame and rear suspension*
> 
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> Here's the rear end of the Mack truck to give you an idea what i'm up to.


Hey Joe this ain't my first rodeo. LOL

I got the idea about the dual axle rear end then went searching for Power Wagen ideas and found this.
And once I found that I came up with this.
So there's no problems with things to go by to get er done.
Now that the frame and drive train are in place and have the wheels half way done, will be getting the cab and front in place then see what needs to be done to get the rear end set right.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 building the frame and rear suspension*
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> Here's the rear end of the Mack truck to give you an idea what i'm up to.


WOW …...8000 lbs. ............ LMAO …...... 1 KEWL TRUCK


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## htl

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 building the frame and rear suspension*
> 
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> Here's the rear end of the Mack truck to give you an idea what i'm up to.


Tony can you say *HEAVY DUTY*!!!
That has always been one of my favorite sayings from way back when the world was you guessed it heavy duty.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 building the frame and rear suspension*
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> Here's the rear end of the Mack truck to give you an idea what i'm up to.


Nearly missed a seat on this truck build….. watching to see how you get it done…


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 building the frame and rear suspension*
> 
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> Here's the rear end of the Mack truck to give you an idea what i'm up to.


Looking Good!


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## htl

*Power Wagon 6x6 building the transfer case, drive shafts and wheels*

First picture shows the back drive shaft passing over the differential and heading to the transfer case.
Both rear drive shafts go to the transfer case independently.
Second picture show the transfer case with the drive shaft to the trans and one to the front end.
I ran out of 1/4" oak dowel so will finish up the drive shafts monday.
Last pictures just showing the travel of the rear axles.




































Couple a pictures of the wheels being made.
marked for the band saw and cut,

















Then drilled 5/8 deep with the hole saw and will clear it out with a fastener bit just deep enough so the router can clear for the inside shaping.
Using the 1" store bought wheels for the centers the hole saw fits them just right but not wanting to drill all the way through to help keep every thing centered, so after the hole saw I clear out the hole with the biggest fastener bit I have.
By doing it this way everything stays center to the axles.
Then when I glue in the centers if their off a little bit I just drill from the back using the hole saw's guide hole and everything is just right.








Setting the hole saw for the right depth.









Then off to the super duper sanding disk and wheel jig.



























Then over to the table saw for some groovy work, I showed this last week so check it out a couple a pages back on the semi blog.
So here's what they will look like, I had an extra one from the semi build so put it in here to show the difference in looks just by using a different router bit and spacing the tread differently.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 building the transfer case, drive shafts and wheels*
> 
> First picture shows the back drive shaft passing over the differential and heading to the transfer case.
> Both rear drive shafts go to the transfer case independently.
> Second picture show the transfer case with the drive shaft to the trans and one to the front end.
> I ran out of 1/4" oak dowel so will finish up the drive shafts monday.
> Last pictures just showing the travel of the rear axles.
> 
> 
> 
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> Couple a pictures of the wheels being made.
> marked for the band saw and cut,
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drilled 5/8 deep with the hole saw and will clear it out with a fastener bit just deep enough so the router can clear for the inside shaping.
> Using the 1" store bought wheels for the centers the hole saw fits them just right but not wanting to drill all the way through to help keep every thing centered, so after the hole saw I clear out the hole with the biggest fastener bit I have.
> By doing it this way everything stays center to the axles.
> Then when I glue in the centers if their off a little bit I just drill from the back using the hole saw's guide hole and everything is just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Setting the hole saw for the right depth.
> 
> 
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> 
> Then off to the super duper sanding disk and wheel jig.
> 
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> 
> 
> Then over to the table saw for some groovy work, I showed this last week so check it out a couple a pages back on the semi blog.
> So here's what they will look like, I had an extra one from the semi build so put it in here to show the difference in looks just by using a different router bit and spacing the tread differently.





> I ran out of 1/4"* oak *dowel so will finish up the drive shafts *monday*.
> 
> - htl


Is *monday* a hard or softwood?

Looking good, especially considering your *love of small parts*…


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## htl

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 building the transfer case, drive shafts and wheels*
> 
> First picture shows the back drive shaft passing over the differential and heading to the transfer case.
> Both rear drive shafts go to the transfer case independently.
> Second picture show the transfer case with the drive shaft to the trans and one to the front end.
> I ran out of 1/4" oak dowel so will finish up the drive shafts monday.
> Last pictures just showing the travel of the rear axles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Couple a pictures of the wheels being made.
> marked for the band saw and cut,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drilled 5/8 deep with the hole saw and will clear it out with a fastener bit just deep enough so the router can clear for the inside shaping.
> Using the 1" store bought wheels for the centers the hole saw fits them just right but not wanting to drill all the way through to help keep every thing centered, so after the hole saw I clear out the hole with the biggest fastener bit I have.
> By doing it this way everything stays center to the axles.
> Then when I glue in the centers if their off a little bit I just drill from the back using the hole saw's guide hole and everything is just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Setting the hole saw for the right depth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then off to the super duper sanding disk and wheel jig.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Then over to the table saw for some groovy work, I showed this last week so check it out a couple a pages back on the semi blog.
> So here's what they will look like, I had an extra one from the semi build so put it in here to show the difference in looks just by using a different router bit and spacing the tread differently.


Ducky it's not a hatred of small parts but hatred of small part that hang off of vehicles and* tracks*!!! LOL


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## htl

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 building the transfer case, drive shafts and wheels*
> 
> First picture shows the back drive shaft passing over the differential and heading to the transfer case.
> Both rear drive shafts go to the transfer case independently.
> Second picture show the transfer case with the drive shaft to the trans and one to the front end.
> I ran out of 1/4" oak dowel so will finish up the drive shafts monday.
> Last pictures just showing the travel of the rear axles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Couple a pictures of the wheels being made.
> marked for the band saw and cut,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drilled 5/8 deep with the hole saw and will clear it out with a fastener bit just deep enough so the router can clear for the inside shaping.
> Using the 1" store bought wheels for the centers the hole saw fits them just right but not wanting to drill all the way through to help keep every thing centered, so after the hole saw I clear out the hole with the biggest fastener bit I have.
> By doing it this way everything stays center to the axles.
> Then when I glue in the centers if their off a little bit I just drill from the back using the hole saw's guide hole and everything is just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Setting the hole saw for the right depth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then off to the super duper sanding disk and wheel jig.
> 
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> 
> 
> Then over to the table saw for some groovy work, I showed this last week so check it out a couple a pages back on the semi blog.
> So here's what they will look like, I had an extra one from the semi build so put it in here to show the difference in looks just by using a different router bit and spacing the tread differently.


Here's more tire pictures.
Glued a pattern for my spokes on a tire and got much better marks for the spokes.









Then set up the jig to get um done.

















Then a small adjustment and drilled holes for the tooth pick lug nuts.








Blacked out some more wheels with the vinegar and steel wool.



































Here's the axles and the drive shaft follows the axles.



























Got the easy part done now I need to get to work.


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## htl

*Power Wagon 6x6 building the cab*

Been out in my back so been a slow go with this one.
Here's the beginning of the body work.
Using oak and walnut for this build but the interior is cherry.









To me they went about the body work in a strange round about way but should come out all right in the end.








I thought they would look like coke bottles but look more like wine bottles to me.


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 building the cab*
> 
> Been out in my back so been a slow go with this one.
> Here's the beginning of the body work.
> Using oak and walnut for this build but the interior is cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To me they went about the body work in a strange round about way but should come out all right in the end.
> 
> 
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> 
> I thought they would look like coke bottles but look more like wine bottles to me.


Cabis starting to look like a vintage Power Wagon!

Some of the real ones are even still around; but the 4×4's not the6×6's. At least a very very few of them!


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## bruce317

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 building the cab*
> 
> Been out in my back so been a slow go with this one.
> Here's the beginning of the body work.
> Using oak and walnut for this build but the interior is cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To me they went about the body work in a strange round about way but should come out all right in the end.
> 
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> 
> I thought they would look like coke bottles but look more like wine bottles to me.


Bruce, really lookin good.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 building the cab*
> 
> Been out in my back so been a slow go with this one.
> Here's the beginning of the body work.
> Using oak and walnut for this build but the interior is cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To me they went about the body work in a strange round about way but should come out all right in the end.
> 
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> I thought they would look like coke bottles but look more like wine bottles to me.


Damn those wheels lookgood and that pink basket is growing…... (on me).


> I thought they would look like coke bottles but look more like *wine* bottles to me.
> 
> - htl


But…* NOW *you've got my *full* attention…


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## htl

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 building the cab*
> 
> Been out in my back so been a slow go with this one.
> Here's the beginning of the body work.
> Using oak and walnut for this build but the interior is cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To me they went about the body work in a strange round about way but should come out all right in the end.
> 
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> 
> I thought they would look like coke bottles but look more like wine bottles to me.


I guess I should have said tequila bottle, not a beer or wine drinker but tequila that's another story. LOL


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 building the cab*
> 
> Been out in my back so been a slow go with this one.
> Here's the beginning of the body work.
> Using oak and walnut for this build but the interior is cherry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> To me they went about the body work in a strange round about way but should come out all right in the end.
> 
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> 
> 
> I thought they would look like coke bottles but look more like wine bottles to me.


YES the wheels do look good but the top of the cabin looks GREAT…lovely lines…top sanding job Bruce..


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## htl

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 building the cab*
> 
> Been out in my back so been a slow go with this one.
> Here's the beginning of the body work.
> Using oak and walnut for this build but the interior is cherry.
> 
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> To me they went about the body work in a strange round about way but should come out all right in the end.
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> I thought they would look like coke bottles but look more like wine bottles to me.


It looks kinda strange right now but once I get the doors and running boards on it will all come together.


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## bj383ss

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 building the cab*
> 
> Been out in my back so been a slow go with this one.
> Here's the beginning of the body work.
> Using oak and walnut for this build but the interior is cherry.
> 
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> To me they went about the body work in a strange round about way but should come out all right in the end.
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> I thought they would look like coke bottles but look more like wine bottles to me.


Looking good. I can't wait to see this one done. I saw this new plan and thought it looked great.

Bret


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 building the cab*
> 
> Been out in my back so been a slow go with this one.
> Here's the beginning of the body work.
> Using oak and walnut for this build but the interior is cherry.
> 
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> 
> To me they went about the body work in a strange round about way but should come out all right in the end.
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> I thought they would look like coke bottles but look more like wine bottles to me.


LOVE IT


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 building the cab*
> 
> Been out in my back so been a slow go with this one.
> Here's the beginning of the body work.
> Using oak and walnut for this build but the interior is cherry.
> 
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> To me they went about the body work in a strange round about way but should come out all right in the end.
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> I thought they would look like coke bottles but look more like wine bottles to me.


Maybe you like this picture:









This "truck" is now an eye cather on the entre area from a compagny who has used him in the past.


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 building the cab*
> 
> Been out in my back so been a slow go with this one.
> Here's the beginning of the body work.
> Using oak and walnut for this build but the interior is cherry.
> 
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> To me they went about the body work in a strange round about way but should come out all right in the end.
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> I thought they would look like coke bottles but look more like wine bottles to me.


Mighty fine!


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## htl

*Power Wagon 6x6 More body work*

Alot a head scratching to get the body in shape.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 More body work*
> 
> Alot a head scratching to get the body in shape.


really starting to look very nice Bruce …........GREAT JOB


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 More body work*
> 
> Alot a head scratching to get the body in shape.


Now one can see the detail and skill the craftsman puts into such a top model/truck…
Well done Bruce, looks great.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 More body work*
> 
> Alot a head scratching to get the body in shape.





> Alot a *head scratching *to get the *body in shape*.
> 
> - htl


Hey *#4*, make a cap out of sandpaper and minimise your sanding…

Taking shape… not like me. I learnt the hard way… its exercise , not *head scratching*, that gets the *body in shape* (the mirror tells me I failed).


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 More body work*
> 
> Alot a head scratching to get the body in shape.


A lot a head scratching but a great body Bruce.


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## htl

*Power Wagon 6x6 Back End*


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 Back End*


I am waiting to see the flathead 6 in it!

Verynice going so far.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 Back End*


Not in this one, I thought about and even draw up a motor plan but not up to it in this build, will be proud if I can just get it done.
The plans don't come with motors T&J plans never do to my knowledge.
You need to get Gatto plans if your in to that.
If I had made a motor it would have been a diesel.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 Back End*


The laminated timber tray looks beaut Bruce….

On the engine, how about a 6V71 GM Diesel…lots of power and sound great…..


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 Back End*


As always a great blog. I don't comment every blog from you but look to them all and enjoy it.


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## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 Back End*


Yup. What Dutchy said. ^^
I dont comment on every one, but rest assured that I* DO READ *them all !


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## htl

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 Back End*


I know I blog a lot and have slowed down a little with the heat and health here lately but do like the encouragement I get from you all even when it's just a HI!.
Some things get repeated but each build have many of the same ingredients and there are many new ones to check things out plus this is a record of when and how I did things in this build.
My mind is always working to find an easier way to do things plus I find so many ideas here and elsewhere that help me change things up.
Many of the things I build I have never really payed much attention to before building so have really enjoyed it when some tell of their adventures with the real thing many years ago.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 Back End*


crowie wouldn't a 6V71 *GM* Diesel be frowned upon in a *Dodge* truck??? LOL


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 Back End*





> crowie wouldn t a 6V71 *GM* Diesel be frowned upon in a *Dodge* truck??? LOL
> 
> - htl


YES …..Garbage Motor Corporation GMC 
You need a cummins in there 
I really love this model starting to look really nice Bruce …....very sorry to hear about your health ….....sucks getting older…........GREAT JOB


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 Back End*


*Very Nice!*


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## htl

*Power Wagon 6x6 Just about there*

Here's the Project Post

Tried blacking out the fenders and it turned out ok, walnut is a much blacker wood when stained but the oaks wood grain peeking through looks pretty good. but won't be doing it again I think.






















































The danish oil should look good.


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## robscastle

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 Just about there*
> 
> Here's the Project Post
> 
> Tried blacking out the fenders and it turned out ok, walnut is a much blacker wood when stained but the oaks wood grain peeking through looks pretty good. but won't be doing it again I think.
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Impressive attention to detail I must say!
Kinda puts my toy train to shame


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## htl

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 Just about there*
> 
> Here's the Project Post
> 
> Tried blacking out the fenders and it turned out ok, walnut is a much blacker wood when stained but the oaks wood grain peeking through looks pretty good. but won't be doing it again I think.
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> The danish oil should look good.


Cool train and a real imagination activator.
There's a zillion parts to making your train I know!


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 Just about there*
> 
> Here's the Project Post
> 
> Tried blacking out the fenders and it turned out ok, walnut is a much blacker wood when stained but the oaks wood grain peeking through looks pretty good. but won't be doing it again I think.
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> The danish oil should look good.


The power wagon is so real; next you will want the real one!


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 Just about there*
> 
> Here's the Project Post
> 
> Tried blacking out the fenders and it turned out ok, walnut is a much blacker wood when stained but the oaks wood grain peeking through looks pretty good. but won't be doing it again I think.
> 
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HI Bruce ….what stain did you use on your walnut?? ..... when i first seen it i thought it was ebony …....GREAT JOB


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## htl

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 Just about there*
> 
> Here's the Project Post
> 
> Tried blacking out the fenders and it turned out ok, walnut is a much blacker wood when stained but the oaks wood grain peeking through looks pretty good. but won't be doing it again I think.
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> The danish oil should look good.


That"s raw wood haven't put anything on it yet but the blacked out fenders, still have some do dads to add then it's done.
Using Danish Oil on it when ready.


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## Northwest29

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 Just about there*
> 
> Here's the Project Post
> 
> Tried blacking out the fenders and it turned out ok, walnut is a much blacker wood when stained but the oaks wood grain peeking through looks pretty good. but won't be doing it again I think.
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> The danish oil should look good.


Love the winch! Great job all the way around.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 Just about there*
> 
> Here's the Project Post
> 
> Tried blacking out the fenders and it turned out ok, walnut is a much blacker wood when stained but the oaks wood grain peeking through looks pretty good. but won't be doing it again I think.
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> The danish oil should look good.





> The power wagon is so real; next you will want the real one!
> 
> - ralbuck


I love my Toyota PreRunner so no problem there. LOL
I like my 19 or so miles to the gal. compared to this diesel hog, would do good to get 5 I'll bet.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 Just about there*
> 
> Here's the Project Post
> 
> Tried blacking out the fenders and it turned out ok, walnut is a much blacker wood when stained but the oaks wood grain peeking through looks pretty good. but won't be doing it again I think.
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> HI Bruce ….what stain did you use on your walnut?? ..... when i first seen it i thought it was ebony …....GREAT JOB
> 
> - GR8HUNTER


Those are oak fenders and I put a vinegar and steel wool wash on them that turned them almost black just like I use on the wheels.
The wash doesn't get as black with the oak [fenders]as it does with the walnut [wheels]I use for the wheels.


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 Just about there*
> 
> Here's the Project Post
> 
> Tried blacking out the fenders and it turned out ok, walnut is a much blacker wood when stained but the oaks wood grain peeking through looks pretty good. but won't be doing it again I think.
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> The dutch oil should look good.
> 
> - htl


Danish I think.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 Just about there*
> 
> Here's the Project Post
> 
> Tried blacking out the fenders and it turned out ok, walnut is a much blacker wood when stained but the oaks wood grain peeking through looks pretty good. but won't be doing it again I think.
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They are some cool mudguards Bruce…beautiful timber contrast!!


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 Just about there*
> 
> Here's the Project Post
> 
> Tried blacking out the fenders and it turned out ok, walnut is a much blacker wood when stained but the oaks wood grain peeking through looks pretty good. but won't be doing it again I think.
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Mighty Fine! Keeping on Trucking.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 Just about there*
> 
> Here's the Project Post
> 
> Tried blacking out the fenders and it turned out ok, walnut is a much blacker wood when stained but the oaks wood grain peeking through looks pretty good. but won't be doing it again I think.
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I'm getting my Ducks, Dutch, and Danish all mixed up, sorry!!!


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## djmonk

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 Just about there*
> 
> Here's the Project Post
> 
> Tried blacking out the fenders and it turned out ok, walnut is a much blacker wood when stained but the oaks wood grain peeking through looks pretty good. but won't be doing it again I think.
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so awesome


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 Just about there*
> 
> Here's the Project Post
> 
> Tried blacking out the fenders and it turned out ok, walnut is a much blacker wood when stained but the oaks wood grain peeking through looks pretty good. but won't be doing it again I think.
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> I m getting my Ducks, Dutch, and Danish all mixed up, sorry!!!
> 
> - htl


That's a bit harsh.
How could you confuse Dutchy and Ducky????


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## htl

htl said:


> *Power Wagon 6x6 Just about there*
> 
> Here's the Project Post
> 
> Tried blacking out the fenders and it turned out ok, walnut is a much blacker wood when stained but the oaks wood grain peeking through looks pretty good. but won't be doing it again I think.
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It's so true crowie but it happened and I need help. LOL


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## htl

*Power Wagon video of the drive shaft working.*

*New to the video thing* but just wanted to show the rear wheels and drive shaft doing their thing.
*Photo Bucket* messed up the video so no joy there!!!



















I finally did it, I went back and did most of the things that needed to be done, *so it is finished*..
The biggest thing I wanted to do was close in the windshield it was looking way to open, and was the one thing I didn't like in these plans, if I was to build another one I would lower the top some for a cleaner look.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Power Wagon video of the drive shaft working.*
> 
> *New to the video thing* but just wanted to show the rear wheels and drive shaft doing their thing.
> *Photo Bucket* messed up the video so no joy there!!!
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> I finally did it, I went back and did most of the things that needed to be done, *so it is finished*..
> The biggest thing I wanted to do was close in the windshield it was looking way to open, and was the one thing I didn't like in these plans, if I was to build another one I would lower the top some for a cleaner look.


Thank you Bruce for showing the video of the rear axle & drive mechanism of such a beaut truck you've built…


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## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Power Wagon video of the drive shaft working.*
> 
> *New to the video thing* but just wanted to show the rear wheels and drive shaft doing their thing.
> *Photo Bucket* messed up the video so no joy there!!!
> 
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> I finally did it, I went back and did most of the things that needed to be done, *so it is finished*..
> The biggest thing I wanted to do was close in the windshield it was looking way to open, and was the one thing I didn't like in these plans, if I was to build another one I would lower the top some for a cleaner look.


So now you're just BRAGGING …. right?


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## htl

htl said:


> *Power Wagon video of the drive shaft working.*
> 
> *New to the video thing* but just wanted to show the rear wheels and drive shaft doing their thing.
> *Photo Bucket* messed up the video so no joy there!!!
> 
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> I finally did it, I went back and did most of the things that needed to be done, *so it is finished*..
> The biggest thing I wanted to do was close in the windshield it was looking way to open, and was the one thing I didn't like in these plans, if I was to build another one I would lower the top some for a cleaner look.


Joe just showing what it can do.
And did I mention it's so smooth!!!


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Power Wagon video of the drive shaft working.*
> 
> *New to the video thing* but just wanted to show the rear wheels and drive shaft doing their thing.
> *Photo Bucket* messed up the video so no joy there!!!
> 
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> I finally did it, I went back and did most of the things that needed to be done, *so it is finished*..
> The biggest thing I wanted to do was close in the windshield it was looking way to open, and was the one thing I didn't like in these plans, if I was to build another one I would lower the top some for a cleaner look.





> So now you re just BRAGGING …. right?
> 
> - JoeinGa


Come on Joe, *When you're that good one is allowed* to show off a little, 
though Bruce I don't think is really showing off just show how!!!!


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Power Wagon video of the drive shaft working.*
> 
> *New to the video thing* but just wanted to show the rear wheels and drive shaft doing their thing.
> *Photo Bucket* messed up the video so no joy there!!!
> 
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> I finally did it, I went back and did most of the things that needed to be done, *so it is finished*..
> The biggest thing I wanted to do was close in the windshield it was looking way to open, and was the one thing I didn't like in these plans, if I was to build another one I would lower the top some for a cleaner look.


Nicely done *Cecil . B de #4*... Also, great "bonus" shot of the door.

However, thousands of questions come to mind (but space not permitting, I'll mention the first 3);

Does that finger ever leave the hand?
Is he/she relative of the thumb.. didn't see a wedding wheel?
What razor do they use?... to be so smooooth!



> "Just set your mouse over this…
> 
> - htl


???, nothing happened… till I *clicked* the* left *button! But then as you said you were new to this video thingy…
(Hmmm.. Brings up question 4.)


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Power Wagon video of the drive shaft working.*
> 
> *New to the video thing* but just wanted to show the rear wheels and drive shaft doing their thing.
> *Photo Bucket* messed up the video so no joy there!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finally did it, I went back and did most of the things that needed to be done, *so it is finished*..
> The biggest thing I wanted to do was close in the windshield it was looking way to open, and was the one thing I didn't like in these plans, if I was to build another one I would lower the top some for a cleaner look.


With win 10 I just touch the words and it shows the video but maybe your computer isn't set up for that.
Mine does it for most video links here lately.

If I don't show how it works how can others know it can be done and then do it much better.
All I have ever done is just follow in the footsteps of others and add the steps together to make a whole.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Power Wagon video of the drive shaft working.*
> 
> *New to the video thing* but just wanted to show the rear wheels and drive shaft doing their thing.
> *Photo Bucket* messed up the video so no joy there!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finally did it, I went back and did most of the things that needed to be done, *so it is finished*..
> The biggest thing I wanted to do was close in the windshield it was looking way to open, and was the one thing I didn't like in these plans, if I was to build another one I would lower the top some for a cleaner look.





> ... but maybe your computer isn't set up for that. ...
> 
> - htl


#4, you're keep pulling all these things out of left field… You didn't tell me I needed a computer!

*PS. *I have *12 Win*dows on my house but that doesn't make any difference.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Power Wagon video of the drive shaft working.*
> 
> *New to the video thing* but just wanted to show the rear wheels and drive shaft doing their thing.
> *Photo Bucket* messed up the video so no joy there!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finally did it, I went back and did most of the things that needed to be done, *so it is finished*..
> The biggest thing I wanted to do was close in the windshield it was looking way to open, and was the one thing I didn't like in these plans, if I was to build another one I would lower the top some for a cleaner look.


Ducky I didn't know Windows 12 had come out yet in fact I haven't seen Win 11 yet either, not that I really am interested in them.
I still have my windows 3 floppy disks but nothing to run them on any more but what does this have to do with the doors in my truck???.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Power Wagon video of the drive shaft working.*
> 
> *New to the video thing* but just wanted to show the rear wheels and drive shaft doing their thing.
> *Photo Bucket* messed up the video so no joy there!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finally did it, I went back and did most of the things that needed to be done, *so it is finished*..
> The biggest thing I wanted to do was close in the windshield it was looking way to open, and was the one thing I didn't like in these plans, if I was to build another one I would lower the top some for a cleaner look.





> Ducky I didn t know Windows 12 had come out yet in fact I haven t seen Win 11 yet either, not that I really am interested in them.
> I still have my windows 3 floppy disks but nothing to run them on any more but what does this have to do with the doors in my truck???.
> 
> - htl


Maybe Ducky is going somewhat daffy


















Bruce I think Ducky has his house windows mixed up with his computer,
BUT neither have anything to do with you beaut truck…


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Power Wagon video of the drive shaft working.*
> 
> *New to the video thing* but just wanted to show the rear wheels and drive shaft doing their thing.
> *Photo Bucket* messed up the video so no joy there!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finally did it, I went back and did most of the things that needed to be done, *so it is finished*..
> The biggest thing I wanted to do was close in the windshield it was looking way to open, and was the one thing I didn't like in these plans, if I was to build another one I would lower the top some for a cleaner look.





> With *win 10 *I just touch….
> 
> - htl


*#4*, You started with the windows topic. I just mentioned how many I have on my house… Actually I have more than 12 but ran out of fingers while counting…


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Power Wagon video of the drive shaft working.*
> 
> *New to the video thing* but just wanted to show the rear wheels and drive shaft doing their thing.
> *Photo Bucket* messed up the video so no joy there!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finally did it, I went back and did most of the things that needed to be done, *so it is finished*..
> The biggest thing I wanted to do was close in the windshield it was looking way to open, and was the one thing I didn't like in these plans, if I was to build another one I would lower the top some for a cleaner look.


Very good thanks for posting


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Power Wagon video of the drive shaft working.*
> 
> *New to the video thing* but just wanted to show the rear wheels and drive shaft doing their thing.
> *Photo Bucket* messed up the video so no joy there!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finally did it, I went back and did most of the things that needed to be done, *so it is finished*..
> The biggest thing I wanted to do was close in the windshield it was looking way to open, and was the one thing I didn't like in these plans, if I was to build another one I would lower the top some for a cleaner look.





> *#4*, You started with the windows topic. I just mentioned how many I have on my house… *Actually I have more than 12 but ran out of fingers while counting…
> *
> - LittleBlackDuck


I can count to 20 if I take my shoes off… If I'm naked, I can count to *21* !!!!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Power Wagon video of the drive shaft working.*
> 
> *New to the video thing* but just wanted to show the rear wheels and drive shaft doing their thing.
> *Photo Bucket* messed up the video so no joy there!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finally did it, I went back and did most of the things that needed to be done, *so it is finished*..
> The biggest thing I wanted to do was close in the windshield it was looking way to open, and was the one thing I didn't like in these plans, if I was to build another one I would lower the top some for a cleaner look.





> I can count to 20 if I take my shoes off… If I m naked, I can count to *21* !!!!
> 
> - JoeinGa


I got *6* toes on each *foot* (each *2"* long)... according to my calculator that makes and additional *12*... and being a metroxesual kind of bloke that can't count in *imperial*! And as for naked, unfortunately the stomach hides all…


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Power Wagon video of the drive shaft working.*
> 
> *New to the video thing* but just wanted to show the rear wheels and drive shaft doing their thing.
> *Photo Bucket* messed up the video so no joy there!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finally did it, I went back and did most of the things that needed to be done, *so it is finished*..
> The biggest thing I wanted to do was close in the windshield it was looking way to open, and was the one thing I didn't like in these plans, if I was to build another one I would lower the top some for a cleaner look.


SUPERB!!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Power Wagon video of the drive shaft working.*
> 
> *New to the video thing* but just wanted to show the rear wheels and drive shaft doing their thing.
> *Photo Bucket* messed up the video so no joy there!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finally did it, I went back and did most of the things that needed to be done, *so it is finished*..
> The biggest thing I wanted to do was close in the windshield it was looking way to open, and was the one thing I didn't like in these plans, if I was to build another one I would lower the top some for a cleaner look.


Now that is neatamundo *#4*... What finish did you use, as it seems to have one helluva sheen to it?

Is the tray big enough for a cask of vino?


> ...
> The biggest thing I wanted to do was close in the windshield it was looking way to open, ...
> 
> - htl


And to quiz you on your windshield cleaner? It looks totally transparent!!!!


----------



## htl

*32 Chevy*


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *32 Chevy*


As I've said before Bruce, You sure do get stuck in, when building a model…top progress sir.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *32 Chevy*


moving right along …......... love the pleated seat and gearshifter …...... GREAT JOB


----------



## ralbuck

htl said:


> *32 Chevy*


It is looking woderful!

I have always liked 3 window coupes; regardless of brand.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *32 Chevy*


Elm?


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *32 Chevy*


You keep knocking these things out so fast, soon you're gonna need to build a car dealership building to make room for the new models ! 
.
.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *32 Chevy*


Dutchy it's cherry and will have a touch a walnut I'm thinking.
Joe the better half is just about ready to get rid of me or them if I make any more.
I keep wanting to build something else but just haven't found something that catches my imagination.


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *32 Chevy*


So maybe something a bit more "utilitarian"

.








.
.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *32 Chevy*


Joe I don't know but the newer vehicles are just too flat or square.
I thought about building my toyota Prerunner but!
I always lover the El Camino's.


----------



## TV2

htl said:


> *32 Chevy*


Love your work. Can you tell me where you get the plans for your 32 chevy from? I'd like to try my hand at one too
Thanks TV2


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *32 Chevy*


TV2 It's really a 1934 if two years makes any different.
It's a Toys And Joys plan, it only has 2 paged a how to and the shapes you'll need to get er done.
It comes with plans for the fenders which would look way nice but I always seem to gravitate to the hot rods before I get to far along.


----------



## TV2

htl said:


> *32 Chevy*


thanks for the info. By the way what are the dimensions of your engine for this hot-rod?
Thanks TV2


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *32 Chevy*





> thanks for the info. By the way what are the dimensions of your engine for this hot-rod?
> Thanks TV2
> 
> - TV2


I'll put the info over at the other hot rod post.


----------



## jorge63

htl said:


> *32 Chevy*


hola….me encanto lo que hicistes…donde puedo conseguir el plano de ese modelo….gracias


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *32 Chevy*





> hola….me encanto lo que hicistes…donde puedo conseguir el plano de ese modelo….gracias
> 
> - jorge63


*"hello …. I love what you did … where can I get the blueprint of that model …. thank you"*
Check here.

https://dutchypatterns.com/


----------



## htl

*32 Chevy Wheel time*

I figured before I could do the fenders and just about anything else I better get the wheels in shape.
On the jig I used before I had a hard time clamping it down, my clamps didn't have enough reach, then it hit me to use a longer 2×4 and I could clamp it at the edges.
*Most times* simple is better.



















Got a new to me handle for the drill press way better And Ebay for the win.


















Wanted to give the rims a different look but they're so simple to do didn't want to go far.
I wanted to use a round over bit but the bearing were to big but since I drilled them out using a 3/8 bit the smaller router bearing works just right.


----------



## ralbuck

htl said:


> *32 Chevy Wheel time*
> 
> I figured before I could do the fenders and just about anything else I better get the wheels in shape.
> On the jig I used before I had a hard time clamping it down, my clamps didn't have enough reach, then it hit me to use a longer 2×4 and I could clamp it at the edges.
> *Most times* simple is better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a new to me handle for the drill press way better And Ebay for the win.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wanted to give the rims a different look but they're so simple to do didn't want to go far.
> I wanted to use a round over bit but the bearing were to big but since I drilled them out using a 3/8 bit the smaller router bearing works just right.


Nice wheels Lots of work!

Look Great!


----------



## JulianLech

htl said:


> *32 Chevy Wheel time*
> 
> I figured before I could do the fenders and just about anything else I better get the wheels in shape.
> On the jig I used before I had a hard time clamping it down, my clamps didn't have enough reach, then it hit me to use a longer 2×4 and I could clamp it at the edges.
> *Most times* simple is better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a new to me handle for the drill press way better And Ebay for the win.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wanted to give the rims a different look but they're so simple to do didn't want to go far.
> I wanted to use a round over bit but the bearing were to big but since I drilled them out using a 3/8 bit the smaller router bearing works just right.


Looks fantastic.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *32 Chevy Wheel time*
> 
> I figured before I could do the fenders and just about anything else I better get the wheels in shape.
> On the jig I used before I had a hard time clamping it down, my clamps didn't have enough reach, then it hit me to use a longer 2×4 and I could clamp it at the edges.
> *Most times* simple is better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a new to me handle for the drill press way better And Ebay for the win.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wanted to give the rims a different look but they're so simple to do didn't want to go far.
> I wanted to use a round over bit but the bearing were to big but since I drilled them out using a 3/8 bit the smaller router bearing works just right.


Can never get enough of your wheel designs. The tyre look great and that's a cool adaptation of the pre-fab'd wheels for rims.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *32 Chevy Wheel time*
> 
> I figured before I could do the fenders and just about anything else I better get the wheels in shape.
> On the jig I used before I had a hard time clamping it down, my clamps didn't have enough reach, then it hit me to use a longer 2×4 and I could clamp it at the edges.
> *Most times* simple is better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a new to me handle for the drill press way better And Ebay for the win.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wanted to give the rims a different look but they're so simple to do didn't want to go far.
> I wanted to use a round over bit but the bearing were to big but since I drilled them out using a 3/8 bit the smaller router bearing works just right.





> I figured before I could do the fenders and just about anything else I better get the wheels in shape.
> 
> - htl


You could have made some mirrors as well?

But anyway great rims Bruce.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *32 Chevy Wheel time*
> 
> I figured before I could do the fenders and just about anything else I better get the wheels in shape.
> On the jig I used before I had a hard time clamping it down, my clamps didn't have enough reach, then it hit me to use a longer 2×4 and I could clamp it at the edges.
> *Most times* simple is better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a new to me handle for the drill press way better And Ebay for the win.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wanted to give the rims a different look but they're so simple to do didn't want to go far.
> I wanted to use a round over bit but the bearing were to big but since I drilled them out using a 3/8 bit the smaller router bearing works just right.





> You could have made some mirrors as well?
> 
> But anyway great rims Bruce.
> 
> - Dutchy


*Dutchy*, Haven't you noticed you only see pictures of *#4*'s fingers… Maybe he's *scared* of mirrors…

Yes, they are great rims… but he'll never see their reflection…


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *32 Chevy Wheel time*
> 
> I figured before I could do the fenders and just about anything else I better get the wheels in shape.
> On the jig I used before I had a hard time clamping it down, my clamps didn't have enough reach, then it hit me to use a longer 2×4 and I could clamp it at the edges.
> *Most times* simple is better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a new to me handle for the drill press way better And Ebay for the win.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wanted to give the rims a different look but they're so simple to do didn't want to go far.
> I wanted to use a round over bit but the bearing were to big but since I drilled them out using a 3/8 bit the smaller router bearing works just right.


You all go back and check out this.
Late addition to my power wagon post!!!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *32 Chevy Wheel time*
> 
> I figured before I could do the fenders and just about anything else I better get the wheels in shape.
> On the jig I used before I had a hard time clamping it down, my clamps didn't have enough reach, then it hit me to use a longer 2×4 and I could clamp it at the edges.
> *Most times* simple is better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a new to me handle for the drill press way better And Ebay for the win.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wanted to give the rims a different look but they're so simple to do didn't want to go far.
> I wanted to use a round over bit but the bearing were to big but since I drilled them out using a 3/8 bit the smaller router bearing works just right.





> ...
> Late addition to my power wagon post!!!
> 
> - htl


*This* is too late *#4* ... The images are forever imprinted in my brain… above the line that even alcohol cannot erase… but, you get an *"E"* for *E*ffort.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *32 Chevy Wheel time*
> 
> I figured before I could do the fenders and just about anything else I better get the wheels in shape.
> On the jig I used before I had a hard time clamping it down, my clamps didn't have enough reach, then it hit me to use a longer 2×4 and I could clamp it at the edges.
> *Most times* simple is better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a new to me handle for the drill press way better And Ebay for the win.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wanted to give the rims a different look but they're so simple to do didn't want to go far.
> I wanted to use a round over bit but the bearing were to big but since I drilled them out using a 3/8 bit the smaller router bearing works just right.


You certainly get the most out of the Shop Smith Bruce…..


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *32 Chevy Wheel time*
> 
> I figured before I could do the fenders and just about anything else I better get the wheels in shape.
> On the jig I used before I had a hard time clamping it down, my clamps didn't have enough reach, then it hit me to use a longer 2×4 and I could clamp it at the edges.
> *Most times* simple is better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a new to me handle for the drill press way better And Ebay for the win.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wanted to give the rims a different look but they're so simple to do didn't want to go far.
> I wanted to use a round over bit but the bearing were to big but since I drilled them out using a 3/8 bit the smaller router bearing works just right.





> You certainly get the most out of the Shop Smith Bruce…..
> 
> - crowie


*#4*, may be tall, slim, good looking and rich… he may even be an Adonis… 
However, I agree, and only envy his *SS*...


----------



## robscastle

htl said:


> *32 Chevy Wheel time*
> 
> I figured before I could do the fenders and just about anything else I better get the wheels in shape.
> On the jig I used before I had a hard time clamping it down, my clamps didn't have enough reach, then it hit me to use a longer 2×4 and I could clamp it at the edges.
> *Most times* simple is better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a new to me handle for the drill press way better And Ebay for the win.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wanted to give the rims a different look but they're so simple to do didn't want to go far.
> I wanted to use a round over bit but the bearing were to big but since I drilled them out using a 3/8 bit the smaller router bearing works just right.


Nice wheels,...including the ones behind the drill press!

Whats with all the secret coded messages #4 etc?


----------



## htl

*32 Chevy radiator and rear fender*


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *32 Chevy radiator and rear fender*


Grappig karretje.


----------



## toyguy

htl said:


> *32 Chevy radiator and rear fender*


good job


----------



## ralbuck

htl said:


> *32 Chevy radiator and rear fender*


You are going to like this toy so well; that you will have to build a street rod!

Looking great.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *32 Chevy radiator and rear fender*


You should stop posting pictures of the wheels… I have trouble NOT looking at them and trying to see the rest of the build…

You seem to have created a new level of sophistication… In *picture 5*, 








is the tyre flat or made of "memory rubber"???


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *32 Chevy radiator and rear fender*


The radiator is superb Bruce….

On the wheels, I would have thought a set of fat almost slicks on the back to give the Chevy a "hot rod" look..


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *32 Chevy radiator and rear fender*


Crowie I didn't mean to cut the thread that deep but once I got them done I didn't have the heart to sand them down.
I guess I really should make a new set but they'll work for now.
So used to making for 4 wheelers and trucks here lately never thought much about not having thick treads.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *32 Chevy radiator and rear fender*





> Crowie I didn t mean to cut the thread that deep but once I got them done I didn t have the heart to sand them down.
> I guess I really should make a new set but they ll work for now.
> So used to making for 4 wheelers and trucks here lately never thought much about not having thick treads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - htl


Apologies Bruce for giving you extra work….
Love the photo of the Hot Rod, is it yours or a friends??


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *32 Chevy radiator and rear fender*


Just one to get ideas from and show the tires.


----------



## jeffreyarne

htl said:


> *32 Chevy radiator and rear fender*


Beautiful masterpiece. Congratulation.


----------



## htl

*32 Chevy Adding the last touchs*

My first radiator didn't turn out right I made the trim to thin and close to the edge so when I started sanding it the radiator under the trim came throw so made a better one or at least different.



























What caused the problem was not having the right size router bit and cutting too big a seat for the radiator but on this second try it hit me that my laminate trimmer bit would do it with a smaller bearing on it.









Then on to making the front axle.


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## bruce317

htl said:


> *32 Chevy Adding the last touchs*
> 
> My first radiator didn't turn out right I made the trim to thin and close to the edge so when I started sanding it the radiator under the trim came throw so made a better one or at least different.
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> What caused the problem was not having the right size router bit and cutting too big a seat for the radiator but on this second try it hit me that my laminate trimmer bit would do it with a smaller bearing on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to making the front axle.


Bruce,
That is one fine street rod. Everything about it is sweet!


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *32 Chevy Adding the last touchs*
> 
> My first radiator didn't turn out right I made the trim to thin and close to the edge so when I started sanding it the radiator under the trim came throw so made a better one or at least different.
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> What caused the problem was not having the right size router bit and cutting too big a seat for the radiator but on this second try it hit me that my laminate trimmer bit would do it with a smaller bearing on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to making the front axle.


*Whoa there hoss*…,

*#4*, I don't think that this is what *Dutchy* was leading to when he was talking about *headlights*...


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## robscastle

htl said:


> *32 Chevy Adding the last touchs*
> 
> My first radiator didn't turn out right I made the trim to thin and close to the edge so when I started sanding it the radiator under the trim came throw so made a better one or at least different.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> What caused the problem was not having the right size router bit and cutting too big a seat for the radiator but on this second try it hit me that my laminate trimmer bit would do it with a smaller bearing on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to making the front axle.


I guess making models to the detail of yours would lend itself to custom router bits so.

This may be of interest,

As router bits are reasonably priced theses days and can be as low as $2 each customising them can be done for specific jobs, even if they never get used again later.

If you go to a bearing specialist shop you can buy just about any bearings of various sizes to suit your custom application.
Note:- Be warned they may be 3 or 4 times the original cost of the router bit however it does what you want.

I have removed bearings and ground off their support posts to create custom bits for projects I do.

Here is a Round over bit modified and fitted with a shank bearing










Here is a cove bit modified (the bearing from the round over bit above gets fitted. Which prompts the comment substitution of bearings from other bits works also.










A retaining collar or spring may need to be fitted to the stop the bearing moving on the shank.

Anyway back to your post The model looks very similar to a Plymouth I rode in with my Grandfather as a youth many years ago.


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## johnhutchinson

htl said:


> *32 Chevy Adding the last touchs*
> 
> My first radiator didn't turn out right I made the trim to thin and close to the edge so when I started sanding it the radiator under the trim came throw so made a better one or at least different.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> What caused the problem was not having the right size router bit and cutting too big a seat for the radiator but on this second try it hit me that my laminate trimmer bit would do it with a smaller bearing on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to making the front axle.


Beautiful workmanship !!!

How are you holding the parts that you're routing?


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *32 Chevy Adding the last touchs*
> 
> My first radiator didn't turn out right I made the trim to thin and close to the edge so when I started sanding it the radiator under the trim came throw so made a better one or at least different.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> What caused the problem was not having the right size router bit and cutting too big a seat for the radiator but on this second try it hit me that my laminate trimmer bit would do it with a smaller bearing on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to making the front axle.











How do you get away with it???

If I did that, I'd *NEVER* find the piece (the grill).


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## htl

htl said:


> *32 Chevy Adding the last touchs*
> 
> My first radiator didn't turn out right I made the trim to thin and close to the edge so when I started sanding it the radiator under the trim came throw so made a better one or at least different.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What caused the problem was not having the right size router bit and cutting too big a seat for the radiator but on this second try it hit me that my laminate trimmer bit would do it with a smaller bearing on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to making the front axle.


Thanks all for checking thinks out.
robscastle very interesting and will be on the look out for other applications from now on. Thanks.

Ducky those aren't headlights those are his ears!!!


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *32 Chevy Adding the last touchs*
> 
> My first radiator didn't turn out right I made the trim to thin and close to the edge so when I started sanding it the radiator under the trim came throw so made a better one or at least different.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> What caused the problem was not having the right size router bit and cutting too big a seat for the radiator but on this second try it hit me that my laminate trimmer bit would do it with a smaller bearing on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to making the front axle.





> Ducky those aren t headlights those are his ears!!!
> 
> - htl


Hate to be trying to buy headphones for them! Job for super-missus…


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## htl

htl said:


> *32 Chevy Adding the last touchs*
> 
> My first radiator didn't turn out right I made the trim to thin and close to the edge so when I started sanding it the radiator under the trim came throw so made a better one or at least different.
> 
> 
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> 
> What caused the problem was not having the right size router bit and cutting too big a seat for the radiator but on this second try it hit me that my laminate trimmer bit would do it with a smaller bearing on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to making the front axle.


johnhutchinson with the radiator I held it in a vice and many times I use a hand screw clamp.
Ducky I was thinking micky somebody?


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## crowie

htl said:


> *32 Chevy Adding the last touchs*
> 
> My first radiator didn't turn out right I made the trim to thin and close to the edge so when I started sanding it the radiator under the trim came throw so made a better one or at least different.
> 
> 
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> 
> What caused the problem was not having the right size router bit and cutting too big a seat for the radiator but on this second try it hit me that my laminate trimmer bit would do it with a smaller bearing on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to making the front axle.


Thank you again Bruce for the excellent blog with notes and photos, 
plus putting up with and joining in on some of the silliness….you're a good sport.


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## robscastle

htl said:


> *32 Chevy Adding the last touchs*
> 
> My first radiator didn't turn out right I made the trim to thin and close to the edge so when I started sanding it the radiator under the trim came throw so made a better one or at least different.
> 
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> What caused the problem was not having the right size router bit and cutting too big a seat for the radiator but on this second try it hit me that my laminate trimmer bit would do it with a smaller bearing on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to making the front axle.


Sillyness…sillyness you say

I will have you know I take lopping the heads off my router bits very seriously !!

I even routed a piece of metal one day with my CMT bit.

Now that was serious










Seriously stupid I might add.. (its beyond repair) and cost me big bucks!!


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *32 Chevy Adding the last touchs*
> 
> My first radiator didn't turn out right I made the trim to thin and close to the edge so when I started sanding it the radiator under the trim came throw so made a better one or at least different.
> 
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> 
> What caused the problem was not having the right size router bit and cutting too big a seat for the radiator but on this second try it hit me that my laminate trimmer bit would do it with a smaller bearing on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to making the front axle.





> Sillyness…sillyness you say
> ...
> - robscastle


Hey *pilfer-a-fortress*, I think he was having a go *et moi*. Those down-under feathered foreigners have one those days more often than days in the week.


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## robscastle

htl said:


> *32 Chevy Adding the last touchs*
> 
> My first radiator didn't turn out right I made the trim to thin and close to the edge so when I started sanding it the radiator under the trim came throw so made a better one or at least different.
> 
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> 
> What caused the problem was not having the right size router bit and cutting too big a seat for the radiator but on this second try it hit me that my laminate trimmer bit would do it with a smaller bearing on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to making the front axle.


*Hey pilfer-a-fortress, I think he was having a go et moi. *

Whats this? ... more coded messages? ...thinking thinking thinking.

I see no LJ called pilfer-a-fortress whats the LBD quacking about? more thinking thinking thinking.

then *Ding*! got it. pilfer to rob, fortress a Castle OMG talk about sllow.

Oh your such a funny man LBD!

This website is going to be the death of me!


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *32 Chevy Adding the last touchs*
> 
> My first radiator didn't turn out right I made the trim to thin and close to the edge so when I started sanding it the radiator under the trim came throw so made a better one or at least different.
> 
> 
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> 
> What caused the problem was not having the right size router bit and cutting too big a seat for the radiator but on this second try it hit me that my laminate trimmer bit would do it with a smaller bearing on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to making the front axle.





> This website is going to be the death of me!
> 
> - robscastle


With *#4* speed at building, I'm sure he'll build you a *hearse* with slicks…


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## htl

htl said:


> *32 Chevy Adding the last touchs*
> 
> My first radiator didn't turn out right I made the trim to thin and close to the edge so when I started sanding it the radiator under the trim came throw so made a better one or at least different.
> 
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> What caused the problem was not having the right size router bit and cutting too big a seat for the radiator but on this second try it hit me that my laminate trimmer bit would do it with a smaller bearing on it.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to making the front axle.


Ducks that are black can make us use our minds in different ways to translate what he's trying to hide.
It can be interesting to see what he comes up with next or maybe not?


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *32 Chevy Adding the last touchs*
> 
> My first radiator didn't turn out right I made the trim to thin and close to the edge so when I started sanding it the radiator under the trim came throw so made a better one or at least different.
> 
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> What caused the problem was not having the right size router bit and cutting too big a seat for the radiator but on this second try it hit me that my laminate trimmer bit would do it with a smaller bearing on it.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to making the front axle.


Lucky this lil' Australasian quacker with black feathers on the outside, has rhino-hide on the inside…


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## htl

*Sprint race car Frame*

Going to try my hand at a tubular frame for a sprint car.










Dirt bikes has always been my favorite form for racing but if I was into cars this would be my style.









I put two drops a super glue behind the first brace so it would stay in place on the paper, now I can line everything else to the lines to get it right.
Once it's all glued up I can tear the paper away and sand sand sand.


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## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Sprint race car Frame*
> 
> Going to try my hand at a tubular frame for a sprint car.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Dirt bikes has always been my favorite form for racing but if I was into cars this would be my style.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put two drops a super glue behind the first brace so it would stay in place on the paper, now I can line everything else to the lines to get it right.
> Once it's all glued up I can tear the paper away and sand sand sand.


Damn son, You're a MACHINE !


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## RyanHaasen

htl said:


> *Sprint race car Frame*
> 
> Going to try my hand at a tubular frame for a sprint car.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dirt bikes has always been my favorite form for racing but if I was into cars this would be my style.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put two drops a super glue behind the first brace so it would stay in place on the paper, now I can line everything else to the lines to get it right.
> Once it's all glued up I can tear the paper away and sand sand sand.


Looking good!! I know how hard it is to work dowel like that…. lots of trial and error. Keeping an eye on this one!


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Sprint race car Frame*
> 
> Going to try my hand at a tubular frame for a sprint car.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dirt bikes has always been my favorite form for racing but if I was into cars this would be my style.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put two drops a super glue behind the first brace so it would stay in place on the paper, now I can line everything else to the lines to get it right.
> Once it's all glued up I can tear the paper away and sand sand sand.


This will be one fast ride in a sprint car with Bruce driving…..


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## htl

htl said:


> *Sprint race car Frame*
> 
> Going to try my hand at a tubular frame for a sprint car.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dirt bikes has always been my favorite form for racing but if I was into cars this would be my style.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put two drops a super glue behind the first brace so it would stay in place on the paper, now I can line everything else to the lines to get it right.
> Once it's all glued up I can tear the paper away and sand sand sand.


I've got 4 hours in that frame.
You're right Ryan a * lots of trial and error* mostly errors.
I got it figured out by the time I got it finished.
I'll know better how to go about it next time, but hey I learned enough to stay away from it!!! LOL

The plans have you cutting out the frame with a scroll saw but just wanted to do it a little differently.
Making the frame is the whole reason to try this build,all ways like to try different things.

I would have liked to use oak dowels but I have a bunch of these dowels left over from building dollhouses so this will be a great way to use them up.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Sprint race car Frame*
> 
> Going to try my hand at a tubular frame for a sprint car.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dirt bikes has always been my favorite form for racing but if I was into cars this would be my style.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put two drops a super glue behind the first brace so it would stay in place on the paper, now I can line everything else to the lines to get it right.
> Once it's all glued up I can tear the paper away and sand sand sand.





> Dirt bikes has always been my favorite…
> 
> - htl


Dirt cars are my choice… I haven't washed mine for years…

I know why you took on this project… NO headlights…

Great progress and appreciate your patience… especially the small parts. Looking forward to your take on the tyres… 
Did you use a "rat's tail" file on the end of the dowels for profiling?


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## BruceBarber

htl said:


> *Sprint race car Frame*
> 
> Going to try my hand at a tubular frame for a sprint car.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dirt bikes has always been my favorite form for racing but if I was into cars this would be my style.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put two drops a super glue behind the first brace so it would stay in place on the paper, now I can line everything else to the lines to get it right.
> Once it's all glued up I can tear the paper away and sand sand sand.


that is going to be fun to watch you buikd it ,, i did two ,, one was just cut it to the buid ,, the next one i use a dremal and rounded the 1/4" x 1/4" so it came out looking like i used dowels

kep me up to date on the build ,, i am going to build a B-Modfied dirt track car so and willl show you step by step…love the work you guys do

Bruce


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## htl

htl said:


> *Sprint race car Frame*
> 
> Going to try my hand at a tubular frame for a sprint car.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dirt bikes has always been my favorite form for racing but if I was into cars this would be my style.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put two drops a super glue behind the first brace so it would stay in place on the paper, now I can line everything else to the lines to get it right.
> Once it's all glued up I can tear the paper away and sand sand sand.


Bruce I remembered that one of the Bruces had build one but couldn't remember which, was one of the reasons I wanted to give it a try after seeing it..


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## bruce317

htl said:


> *Sprint race car Frame*
> 
> Going to try my hand at a tubular frame for a sprint car.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dirt bikes has always been my favorite form for racing but if I was into cars this would be my style.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put two drops a super glue behind the first brace so it would stay in place on the paper, now I can line everything else to the lines to get it right.
> Once it's all glued up I can tear the paper away and sand sand sand.


Love race cars. Like your take on the frame.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Sprint race car Frame*
> 
> Going to try my hand at a tubular frame for a sprint car.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dirt bikes has always been my favorite form for racing but if I was into cars this would be my style.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put two drops a super glue behind the first brace so it would stay in place on the paper, now I can line everything else to the lines to get it right.
> Once it's all glued up I can tear the paper away and sand sand sand.





> Damn son, You re a MACHINE !
> 
> - JoeinGa


your a fricking MADMAN 
GREAT JOB so far
should be done tomorrow …LMAO


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## htl

htl said:


> *Sprint race car Frame*
> 
> Going to try my hand at a tubular frame for a sprint car.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dirt bikes has always been my favorite form for racing but if I was into cars this would be my style.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put two drops a super glue behind the first brace so it would stay in place on the paper, now I can line everything else to the lines to get it right.
> Once it's all glued up I can tear the paper away and sand sand sand.


You all quite making fun of me, I can't help it if I don't have a life or a job. LOL
Being retired is tough work!!!
Thanks for checking it out and having fun here, it makes my day!


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Sprint race car Frame*
> 
> Going to try my hand at a tubular frame for a sprint car.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dirt bikes has always been my favorite form for racing but if I was into cars this would be my style.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put two drops a super glue behind the first brace so it would stay in place on the paper, now I can line everything else to the lines to get it right.
> Once it's all glued up I can tear the paper away and sand sand sand.





> Damn son, You re a *MACHINE* !
> 
> - JoeinGa
> 
> your a fricking MADMAN
> GREAT JOB so far
> should be done tomorrow …LMAO
> 
> - GR8HUNTER


And his next toy will be made of *flesh*...


> You all quite making fun of me,...
> 
> - htl


Hey *#4*... we're laughing with you… NOT at you. Just start worrying when I call you Mr. Bruce… husband of Mrs. Bruce!

Keep up the good work and posts… they make my day, and something worth waking up for…

I'm a bludging retiree too and can't lay eggs any more!


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## Tinnocker

htl said:


> *Sprint race car Frame*
> 
> Going to try my hand at a tubular frame for a sprint car.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dirt bikes has always been my favorite form for racing but if I was into cars this would be my style.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put two drops a super glue behind the first brace so it would stay in place on the paper, now I can line everything else to the lines to get it right.
> Once it's all glued up I can tear the paper away and sand sand sand.


Wow that is loooking gooood! Where did you get the plans for your build? My 12 year old grandson races Quarter Midget Sprint cars at Atco Speedway here in the lovely state of confusion, I mean NJ and I would love to build one for him. I have been looking all over for a kit or plans to do this. Your help would be much appreciated.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Sprint race car Frame*
> 
> Going to try my hand at a tubular frame for a sprint car.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dirt bikes has always been my favorite form for racing but if I was into cars this would be my style.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put two drops a super glue behind the first brace so it would stay in place on the paper, now I can line everything else to the lines to get it right.
> Once it's all glued up I can tear the paper away and sand sand sand.


Tinnocker Gatto is the place, the plans are quite reasonable and the shipping is cheap but slow!!!

Would love to see your pictures as you build. 
Here they are.


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## Tinnocker

htl said:


> *Sprint race car Frame*
> 
> Going to try my hand at a tubular frame for a sprint car.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> Dirt bikes has always been my favorite form for racing but if I was into cars this would be my style.
> 
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> 
> I put two drops a super glue behind the first brace so it would stay in place on the paper, now I can line everything else to the lines to get it right.
> Once it's all glued up I can tear the paper away and sand sand sand.


Hi Bruce,
So I ordered the Sprint Car plans from Gatto and I can't wait to dig in and start building. I am actually going to build 3 cars, my grandson has three different weight classed he drives in. This will be a great 13th Birthday present present for him. I will sure yet to take pictures as I build but I'm bad at that, don't know why, I always get caught up in the building and forget to document the builds. I built a 16" band saw, a band saw saw milk and many other power tools and only remembered to take the pictures after I was done. Go figure.


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## htl

*Sprint race car motor, seat, rear end*

Needed to start with the things that will hold the two frames together.
This is being made with what wood is left over from other project.
Cherry walnut and oak dowels.

I haven't read one bit of the instructions just using the pictures to get er done.
When I get near finished and things aren't going right I'll read the fine print and see what I did wrong. lol
The Gatto plans have a lot a reading instructions but these plans came with a full sheet with all the part pictured so you can copy, print and then cut them out and glue to your wood can't get much easier than that.












































Sorry but that's all I got done today.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Sprint race car motor, seat, rear end*
> 
> Needed to start with the things that will hold the two frames together.
> This is being made with what wood is left over from other project.
> Cherry walnut and oak dowels.
> 
> I haven't read one bit of the instructions just using the pictures to get er done.
> When I get near finished and things aren't going right I'll read the fine print and see what I did wrong. lol
> The Gatto plans have a lot a reading instructions but these plans came with a full sheet with all the part pictured so you can copy, print and then cut them out and glue to your wood can't get much easier than that.
> 
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> Sorry but that's all I got done today.


That looks good Bruce and I like the logic of your assembly….


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## htl

htl said:


> *Sprint race car motor, seat, rear end*
> 
> Needed to start with the things that will hold the two frames together.
> This is being made with what wood is left over from other project.
> Cherry walnut and oak dowels.
> 
> I haven't read one bit of the instructions just using the pictures to get er done.
> When I get near finished and things aren't going right I'll read the fine print and see what I did wrong. lol
> The Gatto plans have a lot a reading instructions but these plans came with a full sheet with all the part pictured so you can copy, print and then cut them out and glue to your wood can't get much easier than that.
> 
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> Sorry but that's all I got done today.


I should add that all the big parts are dry fit so I will be able to shape and buff everything when the time comes.


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Sprint race car motor, seat, rear end*
> 
> Needed to start with the things that will hold the two frames together.
> This is being made with what wood is left over from other project.
> Cherry walnut and oak dowels.
> 
> I haven't read one bit of the instructions just using the pictures to get er done.
> When I get near finished and things aren't going right I'll read the fine print and see what I did wrong. lol
> The Gatto plans have a lot a reading instructions but these plans came with a full sheet with all the part pictured so you can copy, print and then cut them out and glue to your wood can't get much easier than that.
> 
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> Sorry but that's all I got done today.


Very well thought out and ambitious project! Looking great!


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Sprint race car motor, seat, rear end*
> 
> Needed to start with the things that will hold the two frames together.
> This is being made with what wood is left over from other project.
> Cherry walnut and oak dowels.
> 
> I haven't read one bit of the instructions just using the pictures to get er done.
> When I get near finished and things aren't going right I'll read the fine print and see what I did wrong. lol
> The Gatto plans have a lot a reading instructions but these plans came with a full sheet with all the part pictured so you can copy, print and then cut them out and glue to your wood can't get much easier than that.
> 
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> 
> Sorry but that's all I got done today.


Lucky dowel is circular… otherwise you'd finish up with a box-cage rather than a roll-cage.

Keep them there posts a rolling.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Sprint race car motor, seat, rear end*
> 
> Needed to start with the things that will hold the two frames together.
> This is being made with what wood is left over from other project.
> Cherry walnut and oak dowels.
> 
> I haven't read one bit of the instructions just using the pictures to get er done.
> When I get near finished and things aren't going right I'll read the fine print and see what I did wrong. lol
> The Gatto plans have a lot a reading instructions but these plans came with a full sheet with all the part pictured so you can copy, print and then cut them out and glue to your wood can't get much easier than that.
> 
> 
> 
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> Sorry but that's all I got done today.


It would have been nice and more accurate to do it all with dowels[the frame] but my would be metal brackets will be mostly hid by the fairings and such.


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## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Sprint race car motor, seat, rear end*
> 
> Needed to start with the things that will hold the two frames together.
> This is being made with what wood is left over from other project.
> Cherry walnut and oak dowels.
> 
> I haven't read one bit of the instructions just using the pictures to get er done.
> When I get near finished and things aren't going right I'll read the fine print and see what I did wrong. lol
> The Gatto plans have a lot a reading instructions but these plans came with a full sheet with all the part pictured so you can copy, print and then cut them out and glue to your wood can't get much easier than that.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> Sorry but that's all I got done today.


The glue-up of all those dowel frame pieces must have sucked BIG TIME !

I'm thinking you must have more patience than me …


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## htl

*Sprint race car gas tank, gluing it together.*

The tires you will see here are just leftovers from other project but help get an idea what's going on.
There's a lot more to this project than is first seen when looking at it just on a shelf as I discovered when I started building one..
Of course making a frame out of dowels had something to do with that.









It's interesting how they designed the manifold, may be using this idea on other projects.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Sprint race car gas tank, gluing it together.*
> 
> The tires you will see here are just leftovers from other project but help get an idea what's going on.
> There's a lot more to this project than is first seen when looking at it just on a shelf as I discovered when I started building one..
> Of course making a frame out of dowels had something to do with that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's interesting how they designed the manifold, may be using this idea on other projects.


Your starting to get some detail going Bruce….
The steering front end looks good…


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Sprint race car gas tank, gluing it together.*
> 
> The tires you will see here are just leftovers from other project but help get an idea what's going on.
> There's a lot more to this project than is first seen when looking at it just on a shelf as I discovered when I started building one..
> Of course making a frame out of dowels had something to do with that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's interesting how they designed the manifold, may be using this idea on other projects.


hehehehehe .....HEY Bruce is that the doughnut on the rear ….. you have a flat …......LMAO ......... I have the plan on order …. if its Gatto


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Sprint race car gas tank, gluing it together.*
> 
> The tires you will see here are just leftovers from other project but help get an idea what's going on.
> There's a lot more to this project than is first seen when looking at it just on a shelf as I discovered when I started building one..
> Of course making a frame out of dowels had something to do with that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's interesting how they designed the manifold, may be using this idea on other projects.


Lots and LOTS MORE work!

Will be neat; but, A lot of work.

Way past my patience level or skill for that matter too.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Sprint race car gas tank, gluing it together.*
> 
> The tires you will see here are just leftovers from other project but help get an idea what's going on.
> There's a lot more to this project than is first seen when looking at it just on a shelf as I discovered when I started building one..
> Of course making a frame out of dowels had something to do with that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's interesting how they designed the manifold, may be using this idea on other projects.


Hunter yep it's Gatto!
Get er and get er done!!!


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## htl

htl said:


> *Sprint race car gas tank, gluing it together.*
> 
> The tires you will see here are just leftovers from other project but help get an idea what's going on.
> There's a lot more to this project than is first seen when looking at it just on a shelf as I discovered when I started building one..
> Of course making a frame out of dowels had something to do with that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's interesting how they designed the manifold, may be using this idea on other projects.


ralbuck I was thinking I was just about done. LOL
Well except for the wheels, and that's a good day and a half work in them selves.


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## hunter71

htl said:


> *Sprint race car gas tank, gluing it together.*
> 
> The tires you will see here are just leftovers from other project but help get an idea what's going on.
> There's a lot more to this project than is first seen when looking at it just on a shelf as I discovered when I started building one..
> Of course making a frame out of dowels had something to do with that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's interesting how they designed the manifold, may be using this idea on other projects.


Looks great, I like the tire design.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Sprint race car gas tank, gluing it together.*
> 
> The tires you will see here are just leftovers from other project but help get an idea what's going on.
> There's a lot more to this project than is first seen when looking at it just on a shelf as I discovered when I started building one..
> Of course making a frame out of dowels had something to do with that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's interesting how they designed the manifold, may be using this idea on other projects.


Sorry hunter but these tires are from three different builds, still need to come up with a style for the tires.
The plans show a XX pattern but not sure, need to go looking at sprint tires and make a chose.
The plans show a 2" tire on the back the ones I showed were 2 7/8.
I know I want them fat but from there????

Any one in the know could help me here???


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Sprint race car gas tank, gluing it together.*
> 
> The tires you will see here are just leftovers from other project but help get an idea what's going on.
> There's a lot more to this project than is first seen when looking at it just on a shelf as I discovered when I started building one..
> Of course making a frame out of dowels had something to do with that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's interesting how they designed the manifold, may be using this idea on other projects.


James on T&J's forum made 1 that I liked tires a lot …..I think he has it on photobucket


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## htl

htl said:


> *Sprint race car gas tank, gluing it together.*
> 
> The tires you will see here are just leftovers from other project but help get an idea what's going on.
> There's a lot more to this project than is first seen when looking at it just on a shelf as I discovered when I started building one..
> Of course making a frame out of dowels had something to do with that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's interesting how they designed the manifold, may be using this idea on other projects.


I was thinking I had seen one there, thanks
Will check it out.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Sprint race car gas tank, gluing it together.*
> 
> The tires you will see here are just leftovers from other project but help get an idea what's going on.
> There's a lot more to this project than is first seen when looking at it just on a shelf as I discovered when I started building one..
> Of course making a frame out of dowels had something to do with that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's interesting how they designed the manifold, may be using this idea on other projects.


I love building these different models never fail to learn something new, like these cars don't use a transmission it's more of a direct drive, to change gearing they can switch gear ratios in the differential.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Sprint race car gas tank, gluing it together.*
> 
> The tires you will see here are just leftovers from other project but help get an idea what's going on.
> There's a lot more to this project than is first seen when looking at it just on a shelf as I discovered when I started building one..
> Of course making a frame out of dowels had something to do with that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's interesting how they designed the manifold, may be using this idea on other projects.





> ... never fail to learn something new, ...
> 
> - htl


Sir, maybe you should just log on this site more often to be "*here to learn*". I believe there's a guy here that some refer to as *#4* that has a few spare good ideas.


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## htl

*Sprint car finishing it up*

This has really been some thing different with all the frame work, a very fun and enjoyable build.





































I still need to make a new better indexer but this one still does fine so why bother?
Here's some tire how to shots and videos.
Here's where I stick the bolt through with a washer.









Added double sided tape to the wheels so they won't slip, then tighten the bolt to the wheels and indexer.
The indexer needs no tape it has sand paper glued to it.









Here we see the locking pin for the indexer.
My indexer is getting pretty cut up with all the work it has done so have the pin screwed out farther than it needed to be when new, so have to loosen the handle an extra bit to get over it.


















Here you can see where all the work gets done.
This indexer and jig was make for the Hummer that had over 4" wheels but by raising the blade can cut 1 1/2 tires with ease, but would be wise to have a blade guard on the back side for safety.









Here you can see where the indexer and pin lock up for the cuts.
With the long index key and the notch in the indexer there's no fumbling around feeling for a hole you can see where it needs to be at the top of the fence.
The only things I would like to do different is use better lumber for the indexer, [ the fiber board I used was a no no].
I guess it wasn't so bad I've built how many car and truck wheel sets with it. lol
The other thing is make a more accurate indexer.









Here is a vidio of cutting the treads with my tire jig.
Wanting to show ducky how I just turn the nob to loosen then turn to next notch then tighten it back up.

!http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf!


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Sprint car finishing it up*
> 
> This has really been some thing different with all the frame work, a very fun and enjoyable build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to make a new better indexer but this one still does fine so why bother?
> Here's some tire how to shots and videos.
> Here's where I stick the bolt through with a washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added double sided tape to the wheels so they won't slip, then tighten the bolt to the wheels and indexer.
> The indexer needs no tape it has sand paper glued to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we see the locking pin for the indexer.
> My indexer is getting pretty cut up with all the work it has done so have the pin screwed out farther than it needed to be when new, so have to loosen the handle an extra bit to get over it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where all the work gets done.
> This indexer and jig was make for the Hummer that had over 4" wheels but by raising the blade can cut 1 1/2 tires with ease, but would be wise to have a blade guard on the back side for safety.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where the indexer and pin lock up for the cuts.
> With the long index key and the notch in the indexer there's no fumbling around feeling for a hole you can see where it needs to be at the top of the fence.
> The only things I would like to do different is use better lumber for the indexer, [ the fiber board I used was a no no].
> I guess it wasn't so bad I've built how many car and truck wheel sets with it. lol
> The other thing is make a more accurate indexer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a vidio of cutting the treads with my tire jig.
> Wanting to show ducky how I just turn the nob to loosen then turn to next notch then tighten it back up.
> 
> !http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf!


good video thanks


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Sprint car finishing it up*
> 
> This has really been some thing different with all the frame work, a very fun and enjoyable build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to make a new better indexer but this one still does fine so why bother?
> Here's some tire how to shots and videos.
> Here's where I stick the bolt through with a washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added double sided tape to the wheels so they won't slip, then tighten the bolt to the wheels and indexer.
> The indexer needs no tape it has sand paper glued to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we see the locking pin for the indexer.
> My indexer is getting pretty cut up with all the work it has done so have the pin screwed out farther than it needed to be when new, so have to loosen the handle an extra bit to get over it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where all the work gets done.
> This indexer and jig was make for the Hummer that had over 4" wheels but by raising the blade can cut 1 1/2 tires with ease, but would be wise to have a blade guard on the back side for safety.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where the indexer and pin lock up for the cuts.
> With the long index key and the notch in the indexer there's no fumbling around feeling for a hole you can see where it needs to be at the top of the fence.
> The only things I would like to do different is use better lumber for the indexer, [ the fiber board I used was a no no].
> I guess it wasn't so bad I've built how many car and truck wheel sets with it. lol
> The other thing is make a more accurate indexer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a vidio of cutting the treads with my tire jig.
> Wanting to show ducky how I just turn the nob to loosen then turn to next notch then tighten it back up.
> 
> !http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf!


You certainly do a fine, educational and informative tutorial blog Bruce…THANK YOU


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Sprint car finishing it up*
> 
> This has really been some thing different with all the frame work, a very fun and enjoyable build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to make a new better indexer but this one still does fine so why bother?
> Here's some tire how to shots and videos.
> Here's where I stick the bolt through with a washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added double sided tape to the wheels so they won't slip, then tighten the bolt to the wheels and indexer.
> The indexer needs no tape it has sand paper glued to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we see the locking pin for the indexer.
> My indexer is getting pretty cut up with all the work it has done so have the pin screwed out farther than it needed to be when new, so have to loosen the handle an extra bit to get over it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where all the work gets done.
> This indexer and jig was make for the Hummer that had over 4" wheels but by raising the blade can cut 1 1/2 tires with ease, but would be wise to have a blade guard on the back side for safety.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where the indexer and pin lock up for the cuts.
> With the long index key and the notch in the indexer there's no fumbling around feeling for a hole you can see where it needs to be at the top of the fence.
> The only things I would like to do different is use better lumber for the indexer, [ the fiber board I used was a no no].
> I guess it wasn't so bad I've built how many car and truck wheel sets with it. lol
> The other thing is make a more accurate indexer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a vidio of cutting the treads with my tire jig.
> Wanting to show ducky how I just turn the nob to loosen then turn to next notch then tighten it back up.
> 
> !http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf!


Just a thought.
Remove the rotary knob and instead of ad a compression spring. Than you can change from index point to index point without loosen the screw. Maybe you need the knob to push the screw forward, so it is easier to rotate the wheel.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Sprint car finishing it up*
> 
> This has really been some thing different with all the frame work, a very fun and enjoyable build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to make a new better indexer but this one still does fine so why bother?
> Here's some tire how to shots and videos.
> Here's where I stick the bolt through with a washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added double sided tape to the wheels so they won't slip, then tighten the bolt to the wheels and indexer.
> The indexer needs no tape it has sand paper glued to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we see the locking pin for the indexer.
> My indexer is getting pretty cut up with all the work it has done so have the pin screwed out farther than it needed to be when new, so have to loosen the handle an extra bit to get over it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where all the work gets done.
> This indexer and jig was make for the Hummer that had over 4" wheels but by raising the blade can cut 1 1/2 tires with ease, but would be wise to have a blade guard on the back side for safety.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where the indexer and pin lock up for the cuts.
> With the long index key and the notch in the indexer there's no fumbling around feeling for a hole you can see where it needs to be at the top of the fence.
> The only things I would like to do different is use better lumber for the indexer, [ the fiber board I used was a no no].
> I guess it wasn't so bad I've built how many car and truck wheel sets with it. lol
> The other thing is make a more accurate indexer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a vidio of cutting the treads with my tire jig.
> Wanting to show ducky how I just turn the nob to loosen then turn to next notch then tighten it back up.
> 
> !http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf!


Sorry *#4* let's take practicality out of the equation, love your movie and I *absolutely* like the *simplicity* and *practicality* of your jig, however (the famous however), I now remember why I buggered around with my ridiculous jig. Please ignore "complexity", with the over expensive hardware and the fine manicured shirt sleeves (which missed the 3rd. movie take), I hope that this little snippet will detail what my ultimate aim was and please don't take offense or criticism… *no knob twisting *(to stop my missus complaining).
Sooo, sit back and take a trip in a 'Cecil B. De LBD' blockbuster… Hey #4… I do acknowledge I have the benefit of the lazer to make my life easier so I will use it and not criticise lack there of… however, the aforementioned toggle clamps (in a distant post) may eliminate a few twists (??).

*PS. * Your knob twisting takes a helluva longer time with slow Internet response… and my workshop suffers from that.

*PPS. *Note that my right wrist/fore-arm has been on a diet (a missus observation).

*PPS.* Another damn you *#4*. Just realised from your video that the indexing jig doesn't have to be "smaller" than the wheel. I can raise the blade and cut into it with the gears appropriately spaced… not ideal but it will circumvents one of my dillemas. Nope, I am obnoxious… I refuse to change my design.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Sprint car finishing it up*
> 
> This has really been some thing different with all the frame work, a very fun and enjoyable build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to make a new better indexer but this one still does fine so why bother?
> Here's some tire how to shots and videos.
> Here's where I stick the bolt through with a washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added double sided tape to the wheels so they won't slip, then tighten the bolt to the wheels and indexer.
> The indexer needs no tape it has sand paper glued to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we see the locking pin for the indexer.
> My indexer is getting pretty cut up with all the work it has done so have the pin screwed out farther than it needed to be when new, so have to loosen the handle an extra bit to get over it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where all the work gets done.
> This indexer and jig was make for the Hummer that had over 4" wheels but by raising the blade can cut 1 1/2 tires with ease, but would be wise to have a blade guard on the back side for safety.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where the indexer and pin lock up for the cuts.
> With the long index key and the notch in the indexer there's no fumbling around feeling for a hole you can see where it needs to be at the top of the fence.
> The only things I would like to do different is use better lumber for the indexer, [ the fiber board I used was a no no].
> I guess it wasn't so bad I've built how many car and truck wheel sets with it. lol
> The other thing is make a more accurate indexer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a vidio of cutting the treads with my tire jig.
> Wanting to show ducky how I just turn the nob to loosen then turn to next notch then tighten it back up.
> 
> !http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf!


*#4*, forgetting about my *BS*, this is a huge instalment in *how to *and it may get hidden in the annals of "where the hell is that *htl *post about wheels". May I suggest your little gem get immortalised where it can be re-gurditated on demand.

Dutchy (sorry Mr. Netherlandisch, hope u read), whatever happened to that repository for these type of snippets (yeh, I know… I was a silent advokee)?


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Sprint car finishing it up*
> 
> This has really been some thing different with all the frame work, a very fun and enjoyable build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to make a new better indexer but this one still does fine so why bother?
> Here's some tire how to shots and videos.
> Here's where I stick the bolt through with a washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added double sided tape to the wheels so they won't slip, then tighten the bolt to the wheels and indexer.
> The indexer needs no tape it has sand paper glued to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we see the locking pin for the indexer.
> My indexer is getting pretty cut up with all the work it has done so have the pin screwed out farther than it needed to be when new, so have to loosen the handle an extra bit to get over it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where all the work gets done.
> This indexer and jig was make for the Hummer that had over 4" wheels but by raising the blade can cut 1 1/2 tires with ease, but would be wise to have a blade guard on the back side for safety.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where the indexer and pin lock up for the cuts.
> With the long index key and the notch in the indexer there's no fumbling around feeling for a hole you can see where it needs to be at the top of the fence.
> The only things I would like to do different is use better lumber for the indexer, [ the fiber board I used was a no no].
> I guess it wasn't so bad I've built how many car and truck wheel sets with it. lol
> The other thing is make a more accurate indexer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a vidio of cutting the treads with my tire jig.
> Wanting to show ducky how I just turn the nob to loosen then turn to next notch then tighten it back up.
> 
> !http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf!





> Dutchy (sorry Mr. Netherlandisch, hope u read), whatever happened to that repository for these type of snippets (yeh, I know… I was a silent advokee)?
> 
> - LittleBlackDuck


Sorry Ducky I can't understand a word from what you have written. Please use short sentences like you would write to a child.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Sprint car finishing it up*
> 
> This has really been some thing different with all the frame work, a very fun and enjoyable build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to make a new better indexer but this one still does fine so why bother?
> Here's some tire how to shots and videos.
> Here's where I stick the bolt through with a washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added double sided tape to the wheels so they won't slip, then tighten the bolt to the wheels and indexer.
> The indexer needs no tape it has sand paper glued to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we see the locking pin for the indexer.
> My indexer is getting pretty cut up with all the work it has done so have the pin screwed out farther than it needed to be when new, so have to loosen the handle an extra bit to get over it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where all the work gets done.
> This indexer and jig was make for the Hummer that had over 4" wheels but by raising the blade can cut 1 1/2 tires with ease, but would be wise to have a blade guard on the back side for safety.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where the indexer and pin lock up for the cuts.
> With the long index key and the notch in the indexer there's no fumbling around feeling for a hole you can see where it needs to be at the top of the fence.
> The only things I would like to do different is use better lumber for the indexer, [ the fiber board I used was a no no].
> I guess it wasn't so bad I've built how many car and truck wheel sets with it. lol
> The other thing is make a more accurate indexer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a vidio of cutting the treads with my tire jig.
> Wanting to show ducky how I just turn the nob to loosen then turn to next notch then tighten it back up.
> 
> !http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf!


Wow microsystem
My translation never has come up before but it sure did this time thank you very much. lol


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Sprint car finishing it up*
> 
> This has really been some thing different with all the frame work, a very fun and enjoyable build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to make a new better indexer but this one still does fine so why bother?
> Here's some tire how to shots and videos.
> Here's where I stick the bolt through with a washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added double sided tape to the wheels so they won't slip, then tighten the bolt to the wheels and indexer.
> The indexer needs no tape it has sand paper glued to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we see the locking pin for the indexer.
> My indexer is getting pretty cut up with all the work it has done so have the pin screwed out farther than it needed to be when new, so have to loosen the handle an extra bit to get over it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where all the work gets done.
> This indexer and jig was make for the Hummer that had over 4" wheels but by raising the blade can cut 1 1/2 tires with ease, but would be wise to have a blade guard on the back side for safety.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where the indexer and pin lock up for the cuts.
> With the long index key and the notch in the indexer there's no fumbling around feeling for a hole you can see where it needs to be at the top of the fence.
> The only things I would like to do different is use better lumber for the indexer, [ the fiber board I used was a no no].
> I guess it wasn't so bad I've built how many car and truck wheel sets with it. lol
> The other thing is make a more accurate indexer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a vidio of cutting the treads with my tire jig.
> Wanting to show ducky how I just turn the nob to loosen then turn to next notch then tighten it back up.
> 
> !http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf!


Dutch I thank you for all your contributions to this site and all your tire work has helped me become a much better model maker so thanks!!!!
By your not showing us how it was done has helped me find my own way to get er done, plus I don't think I have the patience to use your technique any way. lol
You know me by now I like to be fast but *look* complicated.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Sprint car finishing it up*
> 
> This has really been some thing different with all the frame work, a very fun and enjoyable build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to make a new better indexer but this one still does fine so why bother?
> Here's some tire how to shots and videos.
> Here's where I stick the bolt through with a washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added double sided tape to the wheels so they won't slip, then tighten the bolt to the wheels and indexer.
> The indexer needs no tape it has sand paper glued to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we see the locking pin for the indexer.
> My indexer is getting pretty cut up with all the work it has done so have the pin screwed out farther than it needed to be when new, so have to loosen the handle an extra bit to get over it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where all the work gets done.
> This indexer and jig was make for the Hummer that had over 4" wheels but by raising the blade can cut 1 1/2 tires with ease, but would be wise to have a blade guard on the back side for safety.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where the indexer and pin lock up for the cuts.
> With the long index key and the notch in the indexer there's no fumbling around feeling for a hole you can see where it needs to be at the top of the fence.
> The only things I would like to do different is use better lumber for the indexer, [ the fiber board I used was a no no].
> I guess it wasn't so bad I've built how many car and truck wheel sets with it. lol
> The other thing is make a more accurate indexer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a vidio of cutting the treads with my tire jig.
> Wanting to show ducky how I just turn the nob to loosen then turn to next notch then tighten it back up.
> 
> !http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf!


I got the chance to get some hub caps for the car.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Sprint car finishing it up*
> 
> This has really been some thing different with all the frame work, a very fun and enjoyable build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to make a new better indexer but this one still does fine so why bother?
> Here's some tire how to shots and videos.
> Here's where I stick the bolt through with a washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added double sided tape to the wheels so they won't slip, then tighten the bolt to the wheels and indexer.
> The indexer needs no tape it has sand paper glued to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we see the locking pin for the indexer.
> My indexer is getting pretty cut up with all the work it has done so have the pin screwed out farther than it needed to be when new, so have to loosen the handle an extra bit to get over it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where all the work gets done.
> This indexer and jig was make for the Hummer that had over 4" wheels but by raising the blade can cut 1 1/2 tires with ease, but would be wise to have a blade guard on the back side for safety.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where the indexer and pin lock up for the cuts.
> With the long index key and the notch in the indexer there's no fumbling around feeling for a hole you can see where it needs to be at the top of the fence.
> The only things I would like to do different is use better lumber for the indexer, [ the fiber board I used was a no no].
> I guess it wasn't so bad I've built how many car and truck wheel sets with it. lol
> The other thing is make a more accurate indexer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a vidio of cutting the treads with my tire jig.
> Wanting to show ducky how I just turn the nob to loosen then turn to next notch then tighten it back up.
> 
> !http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf!


Cool… What's left to criticize now???


> Wow microsystem
> My translation never has come up before but it sure did this time thank you very much. lol
> 
> - htl


My translator failed me. Looking at his home page, is this a







??


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Sprint car finishing it up*
> 
> This has really been some thing different with all the frame work, a very fun and enjoyable build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to make a new better indexer but this one still does fine so why bother?
> Here's some tire how to shots and videos.
> Here's where I stick the bolt through with a washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added double sided tape to the wheels so they won't slip, then tighten the bolt to the wheels and indexer.
> The indexer needs no tape it has sand paper glued to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we see the locking pin for the indexer.
> My indexer is getting pretty cut up with all the work it has done so have the pin screwed out farther than it needed to be when new, so have to loosen the handle an extra bit to get over it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where all the work gets done.
> This indexer and jig was make for the Hummer that had over 4" wheels but by raising the blade can cut 1 1/2 tires with ease, but would be wise to have a blade guard on the back side for safety.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where the indexer and pin lock up for the cuts.
> With the long index key and the notch in the indexer there's no fumbling around feeling for a hole you can see where it needs to be at the top of the fence.
> The only things I would like to do different is use better lumber for the indexer, [ the fiber board I used was a no no].
> I guess it wasn't so bad I've built how many car and truck wheel sets with it. lol
> The other thing is make a more accurate indexer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a vidio of cutting the treads with my tire jig.
> Wanting to show ducky how I just turn the nob to loosen then turn to next notch then tighten it back up.
> 
> !http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf!


Ducky why have you waited so long to show us this???
It's a cool jig and will definitely get er done.
The biggest advantage is speed.

One of the points of this video was to show that you only need one setting for most tire sizes.
I had noticed yesterday where you had been over at the woodworkerforum talking about jig making and it hit me how you all were so set on making it adjustable..

Your jig would be great for mass produced wheels[quicker] but as you said would be very hard for all but a few woodworkers to be able to come up with this jig.

You're getting right up there with Matthias Wandel with this project, and I must say it is way up there on the cool jig factor.

O I have one other question are you able to change the amount of teeth being cut without a major change over, not a biggie just wondering.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Sprint car finishing it up*
> 
> This has really been some thing different with all the frame work, a very fun and enjoyable build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to make a new better indexer but this one still does fine so why bother?
> Here's some tire how to shots and videos.
> Here's where I stick the bolt through with a washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added double sided tape to the wheels so they won't slip, then tighten the bolt to the wheels and indexer.
> The indexer needs no tape it has sand paper glued to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we see the locking pin for the indexer.
> My indexer is getting pretty cut up with all the work it has done so have the pin screwed out farther than it needed to be when new, so have to loosen the handle an extra bit to get over it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where all the work gets done.
> This indexer and jig was make for the Hummer that had over 4" wheels but by raising the blade can cut 1 1/2 tires with ease, but would be wise to have a blade guard on the back side for safety.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where the indexer and pin lock up for the cuts.
> With the long index key and the notch in the indexer there's no fumbling around feeling for a hole you can see where it needs to be at the top of the fence.
> The only things I would like to do different is use better lumber for the indexer, [ the fiber board I used was a no no].
> I guess it wasn't so bad I've built how many car and truck wheel sets with it. lol
> The other thing is make a more accurate indexer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a vidio of cutting the treads with my tire jig.
> Wanting to show ducky how I just turn the nob to loosen then turn to next notch then tighten it back up.
> 
> !http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf!





> Cool… What s left to criticize now???
> 
> Wow microsystem
> My translation never has come up before but it sure did this time thank you very much. lol
> 
> - htl
> 
> My translator failed me. Looking at his home page, is this a
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ??
> 
> - LittleBlackDuck


The beautiful wooden toy scraper model or the tin of spam??


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Sprint car finishing it up*
> 
> This has really been some thing different with all the frame work, a very fun and enjoyable build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to make a new better indexer but this one still does fine so why bother?
> Here's some tire how to shots and videos.
> Here's where I stick the bolt through with a washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added double sided tape to the wheels so they won't slip, then tighten the bolt to the wheels and indexer.
> The indexer needs no tape it has sand paper glued to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we see the locking pin for the indexer.
> My indexer is getting pretty cut up with all the work it has done so have the pin screwed out farther than it needed to be when new, so have to loosen the handle an extra bit to get over it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where all the work gets done.
> This indexer and jig was make for the Hummer that had over 4" wheels but by raising the blade can cut 1 1/2 tires with ease, but would be wise to have a blade guard on the back side for safety.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where the indexer and pin lock up for the cuts.
> With the long index key and the notch in the indexer there's no fumbling around feeling for a hole you can see where it needs to be at the top of the fence.
> The only things I would like to do different is use better lumber for the indexer, [ the fiber board I used was a no no].
> I guess it wasn't so bad I've built how many car and truck wheel sets with it. lol
> The other thing is make a more accurate indexer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a vidio of cutting the treads with my tire jig.
> Wanting to show ducky how I just turn the nob to loosen then turn to next notch then tighten it back up.
> 
> !http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf!


Man his spam is sure making it a pain to get to the bottom of this post.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Sprint car finishing it up*
> 
> This has really been some thing different with all the frame work, a very fun and enjoyable build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to make a new better indexer but this one still does fine so why bother?
> Here's some tire how to shots and videos.
> Here's where I stick the bolt through with a washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added double sided tape to the wheels so they won't slip, then tighten the bolt to the wheels and indexer.
> The indexer needs no tape it has sand paper glued to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we see the locking pin for the indexer.
> My indexer is getting pretty cut up with all the work it has done so have the pin screwed out farther than it needed to be when new, so have to loosen the handle an extra bit to get over it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where all the work gets done.
> This indexer and jig was make for the Hummer that had over 4" wheels but by raising the blade can cut 1 1/2 tires with ease, but would be wise to have a blade guard on the back side for safety.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where the indexer and pin lock up for the cuts.
> With the long index key and the notch in the indexer there's no fumbling around feeling for a hole you can see where it needs to be at the top of the fence.
> The only things I would like to do different is use better lumber for the indexer, [ the fiber board I used was a no no].
> I guess it wasn't so bad I've built how many car and truck wheel sets with it. lol
> The other thing is make a more accurate indexer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a vidio of cutting the treads with my tire jig.
> Wanting to show ducky how I just turn the nob to loosen then turn to next notch then tighten it back up.
> 
> !http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf!





> Man his spam is sure making it a pain to get to the bottom of this post.
> 
> - htl


Sorry *#4*, I took the liberty of "flagging" the blog. At least you can get down to the "*spam tram*" quicker (sometime). With all these dodgy bloggers* it *may need one of your wheel upgrades.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Sprint car finishing it up*
> 
> This has really been some thing different with all the frame work, a very fun and enjoyable build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to make a new better indexer but this one still does fine so why bother?
> Here's some tire how to shots and videos.
> Here's where I stick the bolt through with a washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added double sided tape to the wheels so they won't slip, then tighten the bolt to the wheels and indexer.
> The indexer needs no tape it has sand paper glued to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we see the locking pin for the indexer.
> My indexer is getting pretty cut up with all the work it has done so have the pin screwed out farther than it needed to be when new, so have to loosen the handle an extra bit to get over it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where all the work gets done.
> This indexer and jig was make for the Hummer that had over 4" wheels but by raising the blade can cut 1 1/2 tires with ease, but would be wise to have a blade guard on the back side for safety.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where the indexer and pin lock up for the cuts.
> With the long index key and the notch in the indexer there's no fumbling around feeling for a hole you can see where it needs to be at the top of the fence.
> The only things I would like to do different is use better lumber for the indexer, [ the fiber board I used was a no no].
> I guess it wasn't so bad I've built how many car and truck wheel sets with it. lol
> The other thing is make a more accurate indexer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a vidio of cutting the treads with my tire jig.
> Wanting to show ducky how I just turn the nob to loosen then turn to next notch then tighten it back up.
> 
> !http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf!


Thanks Ducky the more flags the better I hit him with one too.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Sprint car finishing it up*
> 
> This has really been some thing different with all the frame work, a very fun and enjoyable build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to make a new better indexer but this one still does fine so why bother?
> Here's some tire how to shots and videos.
> Here's where I stick the bolt through with a washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added double sided tape to the wheels so they won't slip, then tighten the bolt to the wheels and indexer.
> The indexer needs no tape it has sand paper glued to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we see the locking pin for the indexer.
> My indexer is getting pretty cut up with all the work it has done so have the pin screwed out farther than it needed to be when new, so have to loosen the handle an extra bit to get over it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where all the work gets done.
> This indexer and jig was make for the Hummer that had over 4" wheels but by raising the blade can cut 1 1/2 tires with ease, but would be wise to have a blade guard on the back side for safety.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where the indexer and pin lock up for the cuts.
> With the long index key and the notch in the indexer there's no fumbling around feeling for a hole you can see where it needs to be at the top of the fence.
> The only things I would like to do different is use better lumber for the indexer, [ the fiber board I used was a no no].
> I guess it wasn't so bad I've built how many car and truck wheel sets with it. lol
> The other thing is make a more accurate indexer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a vidio of cutting the treads with my tire jig.
> Wanting to show ducky how I just turn the nob to loosen then turn to next notch then tighten it back up.
> 
> !http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf!





> The biggest advantage is speed.
> 
> - htl


*I feel the need… the need for speed.*
- Tom & Maverick



> ... with Matthias Wandel …
> 
> - htl


Wow, I take this as a great compliment. Unfortunately, I only take other peoples ideas (yours included) and then run with it (plagiarism is my 2nd. religion). However, not trying to spruike, Matthias' gears software, it is one helluva great item (and the centre of my jig) and should be in every-one's jig arsenal (more to follow).


> ... change the amount of teeth being cut without a major change over, not a biggie just wondering.
> 
> - htl


A picture is worth 1,000 words. Tomorrow I'll resort back to linguistics, but for now, a picture of the jig in bed/hibernation,








Now, in words, it takes approximately 12.3796 seconds to change (quicker if I had slip nuts)... add another 22.78453 if you need to change the bore size… and 3 hours to pour and digest a mug of vino.



> ... would be very hard for all but a few woodworkers to be able to…
> 
> - htl


Been surfing the T&J Web site and come across this blog. Lazering may not be out of the question. Most of the costs is in the design and I am more than happy to make them available.
*Re: Kerf lines

Postby jamest » Sat Oct 22, 2016 3:23 pm

hey guys. On my half track I cut out the sides and hood. Then I took them down to the silk screening shop in town. The have a laser engraver. He cut in the kerf lines and all the latches and stuff. They're pictures on photobucket if you want to check it out. The best 20 bucks I've ever spent. James*

Nope… cut your own kerfs… but laser cutting/engraving is my contribution. I can provide lazer destined gears and parts files (for those that paid attention to "more to follow" above).


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Sprint car finishing it up*
> 
> This has really been some thing different with all the frame work, a very fun and enjoyable build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to make a new better indexer but this one still does fine so why bother?
> Here's some tire how to shots and videos.
> Here's where I stick the bolt through with a washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added double sided tape to the wheels so they won't slip, then tighten the bolt to the wheels and indexer.
> The indexer needs no tape it has sand paper glued to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we see the locking pin for the indexer.
> My indexer is getting pretty cut up with all the work it has done so have the pin screwed out farther than it needed to be when new, so have to loosen the handle an extra bit to get over it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where all the work gets done.
> This indexer and jig was make for the Hummer that had over 4" wheels but by raising the blade can cut 1 1/2 tires with ease, but would be wise to have a blade guard on the back side for safety.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where the indexer and pin lock up for the cuts.
> With the long index key and the notch in the indexer there's no fumbling around feeling for a hole you can see where it needs to be at the top of the fence.
> The only things I would like to do different is use better lumber for the indexer, [ the fiber board I used was a no no].
> I guess it wasn't so bad I've built how many car and truck wheel sets with it. lol
> The other thing is make a more accurate indexer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a vidio of cutting the treads with my tire jig.
> Wanting to show ducky how I just turn the nob to loosen then turn to next notch then tighten it back up.
> 
> !http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf!


That is one mechanical marvel for sure Ducky…..WOW!!


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Sprint car finishing it up*
> 
> This has really been some thing different with all the frame work, a very fun and enjoyable build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to make a new better indexer but this one still does fine so why bother?
> Here's some tire how to shots and videos.
> Here's where I stick the bolt through with a washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added double sided tape to the wheels so they won't slip, then tighten the bolt to the wheels and indexer.
> The indexer needs no tape it has sand paper glued to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we see the locking pin for the indexer.
> My indexer is getting pretty cut up with all the work it has done so have the pin screwed out farther than it needed to be when new, so have to loosen the handle an extra bit to get over it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where all the work gets done.
> This indexer and jig was make for the Hummer that had over 4" wheels but by raising the blade can cut 1 1/2 tires with ease, but would be wise to have a blade guard on the back side for safety.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where the indexer and pin lock up for the cuts.
> With the long index key and the notch in the indexer there's no fumbling around feeling for a hole you can see where it needs to be at the top of the fence.
> The only things I would like to do different is use better lumber for the indexer, [ the fiber board I used was a no no].
> I guess it wasn't so bad I've built how many car and truck wheel sets with it. lol
> The other thing is make a more accurate indexer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a vidio of cutting the treads with my tire jig.
> Wanting to show ducky how I just turn the nob to loosen then turn to next notch then tighten it back up.
> 
> !http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf!


A picture is worth 1,000 words. Tomorrow I'll resort back to linguistics, but for now, a picture of the jig in bed/hibernation,

true ducky : BUT a video is worth billion words


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Sprint car finishing it up*
> 
> This has really been some thing different with all the frame work, a very fun and enjoyable build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to make a new better indexer but this one still does fine so why bother?
> Here's some tire how to shots and videos.
> Here's where I stick the bolt through with a washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added double sided tape to the wheels so they won't slip, then tighten the bolt to the wheels and indexer.
> The indexer needs no tape it has sand paper glued to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we see the locking pin for the indexer.
> My indexer is getting pretty cut up with all the work it has done so have the pin screwed out farther than it needed to be when new, so have to loosen the handle an extra bit to get over it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where all the work gets done.
> This indexer and jig was make for the Hummer that had over 4" wheels but by raising the blade can cut 1 1/2 tires with ease, but would be wise to have a blade guard on the back side for safety.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where the indexer and pin lock up for the cuts.
> With the long index key and the notch in the indexer there's no fumbling around feeling for a hole you can see where it needs to be at the top of the fence.
> The only things I would like to do different is use better lumber for the indexer, [ the fiber board I used was a no no].
> I guess it wasn't so bad I've built how many car and truck wheel sets with it. lol
> The other thing is make a more accurate indexer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a vidio of cutting the treads with my tire jig.
> Wanting to show ducky how I just turn the nob to loosen then turn to next notch then tighten it back up.
> 
> !http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf!


As above you will be able to make some great and perfect wheels with your new toy maker.
Love all the work you have put into it and way way up there on the cool jig meter for sure.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Sprint car finishing it up*
> 
> This has really been some thing different with all the frame work, a very fun and enjoyable build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to make a new better indexer but this one still does fine so why bother?
> Here's some tire how to shots and videos.
> Here's where I stick the bolt through with a washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added double sided tape to the wheels so they won't slip, then tighten the bolt to the wheels and indexer.
> The indexer needs no tape it has sand paper glued to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we see the locking pin for the indexer.
> My indexer is getting pretty cut up with all the work it has done so have the pin screwed out farther than it needed to be when new, so have to loosen the handle an extra bit to get over it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where all the work gets done.
> This indexer and jig was make for the Hummer that had over 4" wheels but by raising the blade can cut 1 1/2 tires with ease, but would be wise to have a blade guard on the back side for safety.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where the indexer and pin lock up for the cuts.
> With the long index key and the notch in the indexer there's no fumbling around feeling for a hole you can see where it needs to be at the top of the fence.
> The only things I would like to do different is use better lumber for the indexer, [ the fiber board I used was a no no].
> I guess it wasn't so bad I've built how many car and truck wheel sets with it. lol
> The other thing is make a more accurate indexer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a vidio of cutting the treads with my tire jig.
> Wanting to show ducky how I just turn the nob to loosen then turn to next notch then tighten it back up.
> 
> !http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf!


Would be cool if you would do a projects post on this. hint hint
so I can add it to my favorites page.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Sprint car finishing it up*
> 
> This has really been some thing different with all the frame work, a very fun and enjoyable build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to make a new better indexer but this one still does fine so why bother?
> Here's some tire how to shots and videos.
> Here's where I stick the bolt through with a washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added double sided tape to the wheels so they won't slip, then tighten the bolt to the wheels and indexer.
> The indexer needs no tape it has sand paper glued to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we see the locking pin for the indexer.
> My indexer is getting pretty cut up with all the work it has done so have the pin screwed out farther than it needed to be when new, so have to loosen the handle an extra bit to get over it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where all the work gets done.
> This indexer and jig was make for the Hummer that had over 4" wheels but by raising the blade can cut 1 1/2 tires with ease, but would be wise to have a blade guard on the back side for safety.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where the indexer and pin lock up for the cuts.
> With the long index key and the notch in the indexer there's no fumbling around feeling for a hole you can see where it needs to be at the top of the fence.
> The only things I would like to do different is use better lumber for the indexer, [ the fiber board I used was a no no].
> I guess it wasn't so bad I've built how many car and truck wheel sets with it. lol
> The other thing is make a more accurate indexer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a vidio of cutting the treads with my tire jig.
> Wanting to show ducky how I just turn the nob to loosen then turn to next notch then tighten it back up.
> 
> !http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf!





> Would be cool if you would do a projects post on this. hint hint
> 
> - htl


I was tempted as I have enough photos, but because of it's dependence on a lazer cutter, which is not in every ones workshop arsenal, I opted to just sit on this egg and not hatch it.

If fewer teethed gears would be practical I wouldn't have hesitated. I found that the more teeth in the gears, there was less play when cutting. Even with 36 teeth (which could be difficult with a scroll saw) it was subject to play, however small finger pressure manages to stop that. Probably 60 teeth would totally eliminate, however, for a 2.5" dia. wheel you'd need to spend more time in cutting and getting the gears right compared to hand cutting the wheel kerfs.

I did ask James (the author of the quote above at the T&J site) for his pictures and maybe even follow up with a few question of outsourcing lazer cutting. Unfortunately I never got into commercial lazer jobs so I have no idea of pricing.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Sprint car finishing it up*
> 
> This has really been some thing different with all the frame work, a very fun and enjoyable build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to make a new better indexer but this one still does fine so why bother?
> Here's some tire how to shots and videos.
> Here's where I stick the bolt through with a washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added double sided tape to the wheels so they won't slip, then tighten the bolt to the wheels and indexer.
> The indexer needs no tape it has sand paper glued to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we see the locking pin for the indexer.
> My indexer is getting pretty cut up with all the work it has done so have the pin screwed out farther than it needed to be when new, so have to loosen the handle an extra bit to get over it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where all the work gets done.
> This indexer and jig was make for the Hummer that had over 4" wheels but by raising the blade can cut 1 1/2 tires with ease, but would be wise to have a blade guard on the back side for safety.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where the indexer and pin lock up for the cuts.
> With the long index key and the notch in the indexer there's no fumbling around feeling for a hole you can see where it needs to be at the top of the fence.
> The only things I would like to do different is use better lumber for the indexer, [ the fiber board I used was a no no].
> I guess it wasn't so bad I've built how many car and truck wheel sets with it. lol
> The other thing is make a more accurate indexer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a vidio of cutting the treads with my tire jig.
> Wanting to show ducky how I just turn the nob to loosen then turn to next notch then tighten it back up.
> 
> !http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf!


*#4*, noticed in the following pickie, the long thread the knob has to negotiate to tighten and then remove to extract the wheel, 









Just in case anyone out there are not familiar with… have you considered a slip nut?


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Sprint car finishing it up*
> 
> This has really been some thing different with all the frame work, a very fun and enjoyable build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to make a new better indexer but this one still does fine so why bother?
> Here's some tire how to shots and videos.
> Here's where I stick the bolt through with a washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added double sided tape to the wheels so they won't slip, then tighten the bolt to the wheels and indexer.
> The indexer needs no tape it has sand paper glued to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we see the locking pin for the indexer.
> My indexer is getting pretty cut up with all the work it has done so have the pin screwed out farther than it needed to be when new, so have to loosen the handle an extra bit to get over it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where all the work gets done.
> This indexer and jig was make for the Hummer that had over 4" wheels but by raising the blade can cut 1 1/2 tires with ease, but would be wise to have a blade guard on the back side for safety.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where the indexer and pin lock up for the cuts.
> With the long index key and the notch in the indexer there's no fumbling around feeling for a hole you can see where it needs to be at the top of the fence.
> The only things I would like to do different is use better lumber for the indexer, [ the fiber board I used was a no no].
> I guess it wasn't so bad I've built how many car and truck wheel sets with it. lol
> The other thing is make a more accurate indexer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a vidio of cutting the treads with my tire jig.
> Wanting to show ducky how I just turn the nob to loosen then turn to next notch then tighten it back up.
> 
> !http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf!


Ducky the long bolt is for doing 3 and 4 wheels at a time I should use a shorted one but it's not a problem.
The camed nob would also be nice but I wouldn't save me 3 minutes making a set a tires so???
My jig take a little more time and I have to turn a knob but these are not problems when building wheels if you just get to work and get er done.
As I've said before I should build a newer better prettier one but it just keeps on making wheels without any problems so why bother.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Sprint car finishing it up*
> 
> This has really been some thing different with all the frame work, a very fun and enjoyable build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to make a new better indexer but this one still does fine so why bother?
> Here's some tire how to shots and videos.
> Here's where I stick the bolt through with a washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added double sided tape to the wheels so they won't slip, then tighten the bolt to the wheels and indexer.
> The indexer needs no tape it has sand paper glued to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we see the locking pin for the indexer.
> My indexer is getting pretty cut up with all the work it has done so have the pin screwed out farther than it needed to be when new, so have to loosen the handle an extra bit to get over it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where all the work gets done.
> This indexer and jig was make for the Hummer that had over 4" wheels but by raising the blade can cut 1 1/2 tires with ease, but would be wise to have a blade guard on the back side for safety.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where the indexer and pin lock up for the cuts.
> With the long index key and the notch in the indexer there's no fumbling around feeling for a hole you can see where it needs to be at the top of the fence.
> The only things I would like to do different is use better lumber for the indexer, [ the fiber board I used was a no no].
> I guess it wasn't so bad I've built how many car and truck wheel sets with it. lol
> The other thing is make a more accurate indexer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a vidio of cutting the treads with my tire jig.
> Wanting to show ducky how I just turn the nob to loosen then turn to next notch then tighten it back up.
> 
> !http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf!


I appreciate your position *#4*. I'm just a weird gadgets enthusiast and the post was more directed at making people that haven't seen them (slip nuts) aware. I do similar and customise bolt length to make the threading minimal, however, there have been times when I need long bolts and rather than continually change… 2 seconds I save in threading is 2 second more I have to waste on something else.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Sprint car finishing it up*
> 
> This has really been some thing different with all the frame work, a very fun and enjoyable build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to make a new better indexer but this one still does fine so why bother?
> Here's some tire how to shots and videos.
> Here's where I stick the bolt through with a washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added double sided tape to the wheels so they won't slip, then tighten the bolt to the wheels and indexer.
> The indexer needs no tape it has sand paper glued to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we see the locking pin for the indexer.
> My indexer is getting pretty cut up with all the work it has done so have the pin screwed out farther than it needed to be when new, so have to loosen the handle an extra bit to get over it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where all the work gets done.
> This indexer and jig was make for the Hummer that had over 4" wheels but by raising the blade can cut 1 1/2 tires with ease, but would be wise to have a blade guard on the back side for safety.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see where the indexer and pin lock up for the cuts.
> With the long index key and the notch in the indexer there's no fumbling around feeling for a hole you can see where it needs to be at the top of the fence.
> The only things I would like to do different is use better lumber for the indexer, [ the fiber board I used was a no no].
> I guess it wasn't so bad I've built how many car and truck wheel sets with it. lol
> The other thing is make a more accurate indexer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a vidio of cutting the treads with my tire jig.
> Wanting to show ducky how I just turn the nob to loosen then turn to next notch then tighten it back up.
> 
> !http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf!


Ducky the last picture is showing the bolt on there backwards so it would normally have 2 or3 wheels on it.


----------



## htl

*Mining Truck*

Trying my hand at the mining truck.
I don't know why I do it to myself working with pine, it's so hard to get a smooth finish without showing sanding marks, the harder woods are much easier to get right and stay that way.

The plans call for 4 1/4" wheels but shrinking it down to use 3" wheels.
Using pine and cherry


















Radiator and guard.


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Mining Truck*
> 
> Trying my hand at the mining truck.
> I don't know why I do it to myself working with pine, it's so hard to get a smooth finish without showing sanding marks, the harder woods are much easier to get right and stay that way.
> 
> The plans call for 4 1/4" wheels but shrinking it down to use 3" wheels.
> Using pine and cherry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Radiator and guard.


Pretty cool. Just be careful where you park it…. 
.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Mining Truck*
> 
> Trying my hand at the mining truck.
> I don't know why I do it to myself working with pine, it's so hard to get a smooth finish without showing sanding marks, the harder woods are much easier to get right and stay that way.
> 
> The plans call for 4 1/4" wheels but shrinking it down to use 3" wheels.
> Using pine and cherry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Radiator and guard.


I love that picture I've used it myself somewhere???
To start this build I did some searches and this picture is really showing one of the smaller mining dump truck. LOL 
Here's one hot truck.
Some days you just have to use the air conditioner!!!


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Mining Truck*
> 
> Trying my hand at the mining truck.
> I don't know why I do it to myself working with pine, it's so hard to get a smooth finish without showing sanding marks, the harder woods are much easier to get right and stay that way.
> 
> The plans call for 4 1/4" wheels but shrinking it down to use 3" wheels.
> Using pine and cherry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Radiator and guard.


Oh my Bruce, You are amazing sir, a new week and a new project….


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## robscastle

htl said:


> *Mining Truck*
> 
> Trying my hand at the mining truck.
> I don't know why I do it to myself working with pine, it's so hard to get a smooth finish without showing sanding marks, the harder woods are much easier to get right and stay that way.
> 
> The plans call for 4 1/4" wheels but shrinking it down to use 3" wheels.
> Using pine and cherry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Radiator and guard.


Looks very similar to a 741 to me but my mining work is a foggy past now 
I still remember the rotten OGL (Open gear lube) that lubricant managed to get on everything as well as the dragline cables!

The picture Joe posted is a scary reality they had untimate right of way regardless of any road rules

I will watch out of a interested memory


----------



## Northwest29

htl said:


> *Mining Truck*
> 
> Trying my hand at the mining truck.
> I don't know why I do it to myself working with pine, it's so hard to get a smooth finish without showing sanding marks, the harder woods are much easier to get right and stay that way.
> 
> The plans call for 4 1/4" wheels but shrinking it down to use 3" wheels.
> Using pine and cherry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Radiator and guard.


Great looking mining truck and that first photo is just 'FAB', gave me a huge smile to start my day off with. I too dislike pine for it's smoothness as well as it's tendency to blotch unless treated with sealer.


----------



## helluvawreck

htl said:


> *Mining Truck*
> 
> Trying my hand at the mining truck.
> I don't know why I do it to myself working with pine, it's so hard to get a smooth finish without showing sanding marks, the harder woods are much easier to get right and stay that way.
> 
> The plans call for 4 1/4" wheels but shrinking it down to use 3" wheels.
> Using pine and cherry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Radiator and guard.


There is a lot of nice details on this truck. You really did a nice job on this model truck.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


----------



## htl

*Mining Truck Wheels and...*

Here is the finished truck.


















I got carried away and made the wheels too wide so not going to be able to have 4 wheels in the back but that's ok cause I can use them on my next project. LOL


















Here's a picture of how big the wheels would have been if I had gone full scale, in fact this Hummer wheel is 1/4" smaller than they called for on the bump truck.









That would have been one monster truck if I would have gone full size!!!

I think the four fatter wheels will work out just fine.


















I've always hated making hydraulics because I didn't have a good way to make the brackets but found a trick that works for me at least..

I drill a hole in a block a wood for the dowel size I need. [Needs a tight fit]
Then set the fence to sand one half of the bracket, then turn the dowel over and sand the other side.


----------



## bruce317

htl said:


> *Mining Truck Wheels and...*
> 
> Here is the finished truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got carried away and made the wheels too wide so not going to be able to have 4 wheels in the back but that's ok cause I can use them on my next project. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a picture of how big the wheels would have been if I had gone full scale, in fact this Hummer wheel is 1/4" smaller than they called for on the bump truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That would have been one monster truck if I would have gone full size!!!
> 
> I think the four fatter wheels will work out just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've always hated making hydraulics because I didn't have a good way to make the brackets but found a trick that works for me at least..
> 
> I drill a hole in a block a wood for the dowel size I need. [Needs a tight fit]
> Then set the fence to sand one half of the bracket, then turn the dowel over and sand the other side.


Bruce, 
Great ideal on hydraulics. That I'll need to remember. Truck is looking good, as all your models do.


----------



## johnstoneb

htl said:


> *Mining Truck Wheels and...*
> 
> Here is the finished truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got carried away and made the wheels too wide so not going to be able to have 4 wheels in the back but that's ok cause I can use them on my next project. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a picture of how big the wheels would have been if I had gone full scale, in fact this Hummer wheel is 1/4" smaller than they called for on the bump truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That would have been one monster truck if I would have gone full size!!!
> 
> I think the four fatter wheels will work out just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've always hated making hydraulics because I didn't have a good way to make the brackets but found a trick that works for me at least..
> 
> I drill a hole in a block a wood for the dowel size I need. [Needs a tight fit]
> Then set the fence to sand one half of the bracket, then turn the dowel over and sand the other side.


I like that dowel trick. that was a real pain on the garbage truck Im building


----------



## Northwest29

htl said:


> *Mining Truck Wheels and...*
> 
> Here is the finished truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got carried away and made the wheels too wide so not going to be able to have 4 wheels in the back but that's ok cause I can use them on my next project. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a picture of how big the wheels would have been if I had gone full scale, in fact this Hummer wheel is 1/4" smaller than they called for on the bump truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That would have been one monster truck if I would have gone full size!!!
> 
> I think the four fatter wheels will work out just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've always hated making hydraulics because I didn't have a good way to make the brackets but found a trick that works for me at least..
> 
> I drill a hole in a block a wood for the dowel size I need. [Needs a tight fit]
> Then set the fence to sand one half of the bracket, then turn the dowel over and sand the other side.


That's one fine looking mining truck and thanks for sharing your 'trick'.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Mining Truck Wheels and...*
> 
> Here is the finished truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got carried away and made the wheels too wide so not going to be able to have 4 wheels in the back but that's ok cause I can use them on my next project. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a picture of how big the wheels would have been if I had gone full scale, in fact this Hummer wheel is 1/4" smaller than they called for on the bump truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That would have been one monster truck if I would have gone full size!!!
> 
> I think the four fatter wheels will work out just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've always hated making hydraulics because I didn't have a good way to make the brackets but found a trick that works for me at least..
> 
> I drill a hole in a block a wood for the dowel size I need. [Needs a tight fit]
> Then set the fence to sand one half of the bracket, then turn the dowel over and sand the other side.





> I like that dowel trick. that was a real pain on the garbage truck Im building
> 
> - johnstoneb


I love it to. I always did it on the dis sander but this is much better.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Mining Truck Wheels and...*
> 
> Here is the finished truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got carried away and made the wheels too wide so not going to be able to have 4 wheels in the back but that's ok cause I can use them on my next project. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a picture of how big the wheels would have been if I had gone full scale, in fact this Hummer wheel is 1/4" smaller than they called for on the bump truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That would have been one monster truck if I would have gone full size!!!
> 
> I think the four fatter wheels will work out just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've always hated making hydraulics because I didn't have a good way to make the brackets but found a trick that works for me at least..
> 
> I drill a hole in a block a wood for the dowel size I need. [Needs a tight fit]
> Then set the fence to sand one half of the bracket, then turn the dowel over and sand the other side.


Thanks all!!!
I almost didn't add it thinking it would not be useful for any one, but when I need hydraulics I will no longer dread making them.

O!! and Thank Crowie for you help in getting this project started.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Mining Truck Wheels and...*
> 
> Here is the finished truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got carried away and made the wheels too wide so not going to be able to have 4 wheels in the back but that's ok cause I can use them on my next project. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a picture of how big the wheels would have been if I had gone full scale, in fact this Hummer wheel is 1/4" smaller than they called for on the bump truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That would have been one monster truck if I would have gone full size!!!
> 
> I think the four fatter wheels will work out just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've always hated making hydraulics because I didn't have a good way to make the brackets but found a trick that works for me at least..
> 
> I drill a hole in a block a wood for the dowel size I need. [Needs a tight fit]
> Then set the fence to sand one half of the bracket, then turn the dowel over and sand the other side.


Bruce, That's very ingenious, the way that you've flattened the end of the hydraulic rams….

Also sir, love the wheels, you sure have mastered the talent of making them look very good…


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Mining Truck Wheels and...*
> 
> Here is the finished truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got carried away and made the wheels too wide so not going to be able to have 4 wheels in the back but that's ok cause I can use them on my next project. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a picture of how big the wheels would have been if I had gone full scale, in fact this Hummer wheel is 1/4" smaller than they called for on the bump truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That would have been one monster truck if I would have gone full size!!!
> 
> I think the four fatter wheels will work out just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've always hated making hydraulics because I didn't have a good way to make the brackets but found a trick that works for me at least..
> 
> I drill a hole in a block a wood for the dowel size I need. [Needs a tight fit]
> Then set the fence to sand one half of the bracket, then turn the dowel over and sand the other side.


Great trick *#4*. I used a similar concept on the bandsaw and bevelled on the scroll saw. Never thought of using a spindle sander to clean up.

And of course… *great wheels *go without saying.


----------



## htl

*Playing with a Bob Cat*

Started on a semi scratch built bobcat.
Found some hand drawn plans on the net and with pictures from my favorites page am getting it built.
Thanks Gr8hunter for your great pictures.
Oak cherry and walnut



































If you look close you can see where I had to back up and redo some of my work because of a design flaw.
I could have worked around it but it would have never been right so just bite the bullet and redo it.








The seat and the roof and also the back are all junk yard parts left over from other projects



































These aren't the wheels I'll use just a look see.


----------



## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Playing with a Bob Cat*
> 
> Started on a semi scratch built bobcat.
> Found some hand drawn plans on the net and with pictures from my favorites page am getting it built.
> Thanks Gr8hunter for your great pictures.
> Oak cherry and walnut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you look close you can see where I had to back up and redo some of my work because of a design flaw.
> I could have worked around it but it would have never been right so just bite the bullet and redo it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The seat and the roof and also the back are all junk yard parts left over from other projects
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These aren't the wheels I'll use just a look see.


Looking good! You are doing a marvelous job!

I have run "Actual BobCats" and other skidsteer loaders off and on for the last 40 years.

The original BobCats were a 3 wheelers. Made on a farmyard at Foxhome MN. Then they next ones were built by the same brothers at their farm at Gwinner, ND.

The patent was then sold to Melroe Manufacturing;(Gwinner) and eventually bought and resold many times. 
I believe they are no foreign owned but still manufactured at Gwinner.

I was through the Gwinner factory 30+ years ago and it had the first robotic welders I had ever seen.

They are a very marvelous machine!

We actually have a tiny cousin the Progidy Powerehouse Skidsteer. It is rubber tracked and you actually stand on a small platform at the rear of it. It has a 13 horsepower Hoda 2 cylinder aircooled engine.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Playing with a Bob Cat*
> 
> Started on a semi scratch built bobcat.
> Found some hand drawn plans on the net and with pictures from my favorites page am getting it built.
> Thanks Gr8hunter for your great pictures.
> Oak cherry and walnut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> If you look close you can see where I had to back up and redo some of my work because of a design flaw.
> I could have worked around it but it would have never been right so just bite the bullet and redo it.
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> The seat and the roof and also the back are all junk yard parts left over from other projects
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> These aren't the wheels I'll use just a look see.


Ralbuck I used to get on them and play around on job sites during breaks way back in the 1970's and while doing research for this build saw the cats you are using.
Looks like a real time saver and your back also. lol


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## BruceBarber

htl said:


> *Playing with a Bob Cat*
> 
> Started on a semi scratch built bobcat.
> Found some hand drawn plans on the net and with pictures from my favorites page am getting it built.
> Thanks Gr8hunter for your great pictures.
> Oak cherry and walnut
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> If you look close you can see where I had to back up and redo some of my work because of a design flaw.
> I could have worked around it but it would have never been right so just bite the bullet and redo it.
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> The seat and the roof and also the back are all junk yard parts left over from other projects
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> These aren't the wheels I'll use just a look see.


Hi HTM ,, we are both doing a Bobcat ,, i enlarged my plans to 140% so it withh be about 14" long and 9' tall 6'wide.. like what you did on the seat ,, how did you do that ?? i am making my own wheels with groves in them ,, 
Bruce


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## htl

htl said:


> *Playing with a Bob Cat*
> 
> Started on a semi scratch built bobcat.
> Found some hand drawn plans on the net and with pictures from my favorites page am getting it built.
> Thanks Gr8hunter for your great pictures.
> Oak cherry and walnut
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> If you look close you can see where I had to back up and redo some of my work because of a design flaw.
> I could have worked around it but it would have never been right so just bite the bullet and redo it.
> 
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> The seat and the roof and also the back are all junk yard parts left over from other projects
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> These aren't the wheels I'll use just a look see.


COOL Bruce!!!
Mine will be a little baby one compared to yours.
Kinda like this. LOL









The back of the seat is walnut 1/4" deep and cherry 1/8" deep glug up then shaped it was a leftover part from my 32 chevy's radiator.
.









The seat part was from here.









How I did this is here.
The back with all the holes was another left over part that I didn't like for that build but works great here.
I like to make parts bigger than needed, much safer on the hands so have left over parts I can use on other builds.
Hope this is helpful.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Playing with a Bob Cat*
> 
> Started on a semi scratch built bobcat.
> Found some hand drawn plans on the net and with pictures from my favorites page am getting it built.
> Thanks Gr8hunter for your great pictures.
> Oak cherry and walnut
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> If you look close you can see where I had to back up and redo some of my work because of a design flaw.
> I could have worked around it but it would have never been right so just bite the bullet and redo it.
> 
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> The seat and the roof and also the back are all junk yard parts left over from other projects
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> These aren't the wheels I'll use just a look see.


You are surely a very talented craftsman Bruce….Love the Bobcat


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Playing with a Bob Cat*
> 
> Started on a semi scratch built bobcat.
> Found some hand drawn plans on the net and with pictures from my favorites page am getting it built.
> Thanks Gr8hunter for your great pictures.
> Oak cherry and walnut
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> If you look close you can see where I had to back up and redo some of my work because of a design flaw.
> I could have worked around it but it would have never been right so just bite the bullet and redo it.
> 
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> The seat and the roof and also the back are all junk yard parts left over from other projects
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> These aren't the wheels I'll use just a look see.


I'm so glad I was able to help I didn't even know it LOL ......... That's the best …..... yours will look nice also with finish on it …...... GREAT JOB


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Playing with a Bob Cat*
> 
> Started on a semi scratch built bobcat.
> Found some hand drawn plans on the net and with pictures from my favorites page am getting it built.
> Thanks Gr8hunter for your great pictures.
> Oak cherry and walnut
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> If you look close you can see where I had to back up and redo some of my work because of a design flaw.
> I could have worked around it but it would have never been right so just bite the bullet and redo it.
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> The seat and the roof and also the back are all junk yard parts left over from other projects
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> These aren't the wheels I'll use just a look see.


Nice Bruce Bob car like the other nice Bruce Bob car


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## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Playing with a Bob Cat*
> 
> Started on a semi scratch built bobcat.
> Found some hand drawn plans on the net and with pictures from my favorites page am getting it built.
> Thanks Gr8hunter for your great pictures.
> Oak cherry and walnut
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> If you look close you can see where I had to back up and redo some of my work because of a design flaw.
> I could have worked around it but it would have never been right so just bite the bullet and redo it.
> 
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> The seat and the roof and also the back are all junk yard parts left over from other projects
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> These aren't the wheels I'll use just a look see.


You've gotten pretty dang good on doing the wheels for all these toys, so why not get up out of your comfort zone and make tracks for this one.

Oh and, better watch out …. BobCats bite ! 
.

.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Playing with a Bob Cat*
> 
> Started on a semi scratch built bobcat.
> Found some hand drawn plans on the net and with pictures from my favorites page am getting it built.
> Thanks Gr8hunter for your great pictures.
> Oak cherry and walnut
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> If you look close you can see where I had to back up and redo some of my work because of a design flaw.
> I could have worked around it but it would have never been right so just bite the bullet and redo it.
> 
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> The seat and the roof and also the back are all junk yard parts left over from other projects
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> These aren't the wheels I'll use just a look see.


Joe I thought about it but the main reason for this build is to make them knobby tires I have seen on some other cool cats.
You know me I like to make different type wheels.
Plus I have some mahogany track parts left but would need to make the cat 2 to 3 times bigger to use them.
I've been shrinking my builds down to save room so going that big ain't going to happen.
Been wanting to make the John Deer back tires but don't want or need a tractor. lol

Plus there's a ton a work to build tracks and I've done that twice so.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Playing with a Bob Cat*
> 
> Started on a semi scratch built bobcat.
> Found some hand drawn plans on the net and with pictures from my favorites page am getting it built.
> Thanks Gr8hunter for your great pictures.
> Oak cherry and walnut
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> If you look close you can see where I had to back up and redo some of my work because of a design flaw.
> I could have worked around it but it would have never been right so just bite the bullet and redo it.
> 
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> The seat and the roof and also the back are all junk yard parts left over from other projects
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> These aren't the wheels I'll use just a look see.


GR8HUNTER
It was your 4 pictures that helped me get started.
From all the different angles it was a real help.
Have never understood how some will build such great models and toys and then just give us one picture to look at.


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## helluvawreck

htl said:


> *Playing with a Bob Cat*
> 
> Started on a semi scratch built bobcat.
> Found some hand drawn plans on the net and with pictures from my favorites page am getting it built.
> Thanks Gr8hunter for your great pictures.
> Oak cherry and walnut
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> If you look close you can see where I had to back up and redo some of my work because of a design flaw.
> I could have worked around it but it would have never been right so just bite the bullet and redo it.
> 
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> 
> The seat and the roof and also the back are all junk yard parts left over from other projects
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> These aren't the wheels I'll use just a look see.


This has a lot of wonderful details and outstanding craftsmanship. Nice work.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


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## htl

*Playing with a Bob Cat wheels...*

Getting cold in the shop in the 55°at the high today which is ok for working but the super glue doesn't like it been warming the wood up with a heat gun to get it to work faster.
Played with making wheels today, didn't know what angle to make the grooves so went with 70° hope it's right but it is what it is now. lol


















This is just what I got cut out have a couple different ways to change it up, we'll see.


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## BruceBarber

htl said:


> *Playing with a Bob Cat wheels...*
> 
> Getting cold in the shop in the 55°at the high today which is ok for working but the super glue doesn't like it been warming the wood up with a heat gun to get it to work faster.
> Played with making wheels today, didn't know what angle to make the grooves so went with 70° hope it's right but it is what it is now. lol
> 
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> This is just what I got cut out have a couple different ways to change it up, we'll see.


Hi HTL,, i made my wheels like yours ,, but i leave out the sampler in between the two half of the wheels
i rounded then on the outside and the back of the other wheel ,, i will send pictures of might to show you
get job ,,, i like your wheek step up ,, do you have plans for it ??
Bruce


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Playing with a Bob Cat wheels...*
> 
> Getting cold in the shop in the 55°at the high today which is ok for working but the super glue doesn't like it been warming the wood up with a heat gun to get it to work faster.
> Played with making wheels today, didn't know what angle to make the grooves so went with 70° hope it's right but it is what it is now. lol
> 
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> This is just what I got cut out have a couple different ways to change it up, we'll see.


As long as you don't confuse the temperature and the angle *°s*, all should turn out OK.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Playing with a Bob Cat wheels...*
> 
> Getting cold in the shop in the 55°at the high today which is ok for working but the super glue doesn't like it been warming the wood up with a heat gun to get it to work faster.
> Played with making wheels today, didn't know what angle to make the grooves so went with 70° hope it's right but it is what it is now. lol
> 
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> This is just what I got cut out have a couple different ways to change it up, we'll see.


I like Bruce's idea Bruce…. the 2 cut pieces without the spacers….


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Playing with a Bob Cat wheels...*
> 
> Getting cold in the shop in the 55°at the high today which is ok for working but the super glue doesn't like it been warming the wood up with a heat gun to get it to work faster.
> Played with making wheels today, didn't know what angle to make the grooves so went with 70° hope it's right but it is what it is now. lol
> 
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> This is just what I got cut out have a couple different ways to change it up, we'll see.





> I like *Bruce* s idea* Bruce*.... the 2 cut pieces without the spacers….
> 
> - crowie


Crowie, I know a good cure for stuttering…


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## htl

htl said:


> *Playing with a Bob Cat wheels...*
> 
> Getting cold in the shop in the 55°at the high today which is ok for working but the super glue doesn't like it been warming the wood up with a heat gun to get it to work faster.
> Played with making wheels today, didn't know what angle to make the grooves so went with 70° hope it's right but it is what it is now. lol
> 
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> This is just what I got cut out have a couple different ways to change it up, we'll see.


Ducky you're not going to be nice to anybody to day are you.
Nighty Night LOL


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Playing with a Bob Cat wheels...*
> 
> Getting cold in the shop in the 55°at the high today which is ok for working but the super glue doesn't like it been warming the wood up with a heat gun to get it to work faster.
> Played with making wheels today, didn't know what angle to make the grooves so went with 70° hope it's right but it is what it is now. lol
> 
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> This is just what I got cut out have a couple different ways to change it up, we'll see.





> Ducky you re not going to be nice to anybody to day are you.
> Nighty Night LOL
> 
> - htl


Sorry *#4*, but I have already done my good deed for the day this morning…

I put superglue on my granny's dentures so they wont fall into her breakfast porridge.


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## hunter71

htl said:


> *Playing with a Bob Cat wheels...*
> 
> Getting cold in the shop in the 55°at the high today which is ok for working but the super glue doesn't like it been warming the wood up with a heat gun to get it to work faster.
> Played with making wheels today, didn't know what angle to make the grooves so went with 70° hope it's right but it is what it is now. lol
> 
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> This is just what I got cut out have a couple different ways to change it up, we'll see.


So many ways to make wheels, I personally enjoy the challenge. Looking good man.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Playing with a Bob Cat wheels...*
> 
> Getting cold in the shop in the 55°at the high today which is ok for working but the super glue doesn't like it been warming the wood up with a heat gun to get it to work faster.
> Played with making wheels today, didn't know what angle to make the grooves so went with 70° hope it's right but it is what it is now. lol
> 
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> This is just what I got cut out have a couple different ways to change it up, we'll see.


They ain't done yet these are just the base for ???


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## htl

htl said:


> *Playing with a Bob Cat wheels...*
> 
> Getting cold in the shop in the 55°at the high today which is ok for working but the super glue doesn't like it been warming the wood up with a heat gun to get it to work faster.
> Played with making wheels today, didn't know what angle to make the grooves so went with 70° hope it's right but it is what it is now. lol
> 
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> This is just what I got cut out have a couple different ways to change it up, we'll see.


Ducky I bought two of them quick lock knobs for my jigs and will be using them a lot but on this jig the first time I really could have used them they are so big I didn't get to use them.
If you look at the first picture the wheels are so small I really had to cut high to get the groove and the blade would have cut my new knobs so used my smaller ones and it still cut them.
Thinking of making some small wooden vises and these quick knobs will really make them work great.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Playing with a Bob Cat wheels...*
> 
> Getting cold in the shop in the 55°at the high today which is ok for working but the super glue doesn't like it been warming the wood up with a heat gun to get it to work faster.
> Played with making wheels today, didn't know what angle to make the grooves so went with 70° hope it's right but it is what it is now. lol
> 
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> This is just what I got cut out have a couple different ways to change it up, we'll see.


Downsizing is something I never considered *#4*. One of my biggest problems was to make the indexing wheel "not so small" so that the max 36 (my current limit) indices would fit. I decided on a minimum size of 2.5" dia. to handle minimum 2 3/4" wheel sizes. Consequently I wasn't faced with the size issue.

Nevertheless, I'm sure you'll find them of great use elsewhere in the workshop.

Also, knurled push button nuts are another alternative (though not cheap… however, as I get older… nor is my precious time left on this earth *[cheap]*).


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## hnau

htl said:


> *Playing with a Bob Cat wheels...*
> 
> Getting cold in the shop in the 55°at the high today which is ok for working but the super glue doesn't like it been warming the wood up with a heat gun to get it to work faster.
> Played with making wheels today, didn't know what angle to make the grooves so went with 70° hope it's right but it is what it is now. lol
> 
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> This is just what I got cut out have a couple different ways to change it up, we'll see.


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## bhuvi

htl said:


> *Playing with a Bob Cat wheels...*
> 
> Getting cold in the shop in the 55°at the high today which is ok for working but the super glue doesn't like it been warming the wood up with a heat gun to get it to work faster.
> Played with making wheels today, didn't know what angle to make the grooves so went with 70° hope it's right but it is what it is now. lol
> 
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> This is just what I got cut out have a couple different ways to change it up, we'll see.


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## htl

*Playing with a Bob Cat More on the wheels*

Been wanting to try building the wheel treads like they use on the John Deer traitor but really don't want to build one so trying it out on this build in mini.
I got in a hurry with the glue up of the treads, just BRRRRR!
So not going to black the wheels, tryed it on one of the reject parts and it was way to blotchy from the super glue, come to think about it if I blacked them out it would hide all the work I put into them.
I need to slow down I went and glued up the wheels and now looking at the pictures I forgot to shape the inside of the rims.
I got so involved with the spokes I forgot.













































I'm making way too many mistakes on this build got the plans for the Delivery Truck which was on sale at Grizzly so losing interest in this project really fast.
I wasn't interested in the truck when I first saw it a year or so back but looking at the plans there's some cool parts to make.
Plus one or two of the Bruce's made one so got to keep up with the Bruce's. LOL


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Playing with a Bob Cat More on the wheels*
> 
> Been wanting to try building the wheel treads like they use on the John Deer traitor but really don't want to build one so trying it out on this build in mini.
> I got in a hurry with the glue up of the treads, just BRRRRR!
> So not going to black the wheels, tryed it on one of the reject parts and it was way to blotchy from the super glue, come to think about it if I blacked them out it would hide all the work I put into them.
> I need to slow down I went and glued up the wheels and now looking at the pictures I forgot to shape the inside of the rims.
> I got so involved with the spokes I forgot.
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> 
> I'm making way too many mistakes on this build got the plans for the Delivery Truck which was on sale at Grizzly so losing interest in this project really fast.
> I wasn't interested in the truck when I first saw it a year or so back but looking at the plans there's some cool parts to make.
> Plus one or two of the Bruce's made one so got to keep up with the Bruce's. LOL


But to me it's clear no mirrors this time.

I like the bob cat Bruce and the wheels are looking also very nice.

When I glue the treads I use PVA glue to prevent blotchy.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Playing with a Bob Cat More on the wheels*
> 
> Been wanting to try building the wheel treads like they use on the John Deer traitor but really don't want to build one so trying it out on this build in mini.
> I got in a hurry with the glue up of the treads, just BRRRRR!
> So not going to black the wheels, tryed it on one of the reject parts and it was way to blotchy from the super glue, come to think about it if I blacked them out it would hide all the work I put into them.
> I need to slow down I went and glued up the wheels and now looking at the pictures I forgot to shape the inside of the rims.
> I got so involved with the spokes I forgot.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm making way too many mistakes on this build got the plans for the Delivery Truck which was on sale at Grizzly so losing interest in this project really fast.
> I wasn't interested in the truck when I first saw it a year or so back but looking at the plans there's some cool parts to make.
> Plus one or two of the Bruce's made one so got to keep up with the Bruce's. LOL


Dutchy been wanting to try some of the clear PVA and got some but just love the speed I get with the super glues.
If I would have taken my time there wouldn't have been a problem, the PVA would have made the same mess, cause I wasn't taking my time was the end of the day and just wanted to get in the nice warm house. lol.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Playing with a Bob Cat More on the wheels*
> 
> Been wanting to try building the wheel treads like they use on the John Deer traitor but really don't want to build one so trying it out on this build in mini.
> I got in a hurry with the glue up of the treads, just BRRRRR!
> So not going to black the wheels, tryed it on one of the reject parts and it was way to blotchy from the super glue, come to think about it if I blacked them out it would hide all the work I put into them.
> I need to slow down I went and glued up the wheels and now looking at the pictures I forgot to shape the inside of the rims.
> I got so involved with the spokes I forgot.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm making way too many mistakes on this build got the plans for the Delivery Truck which was on sale at Grizzly so losing interest in this project really fast.
> I wasn't interested in the truck when I first saw it a year or so back but looking at the plans there's some cool parts to make.
> Plus one or two of the Bruce's made one so got to keep up with the Bruce's. LOL


Bruce, Those wheels are awesome sir, look like real bobcat med tread tyres….top job!!!


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## hnau

htl said:


> *Playing with a Bob Cat More on the wheels*
> 
> Been wanting to try building the wheel treads like they use on the John Deer traitor but really don't want to build one so trying it out on this build in mini.
> I got in a hurry with the glue up of the treads, just BRRRRR!
> So not going to black the wheels, tryed it on one of the reject parts and it was way to blotchy from the super glue, come to think about it if I blacked them out it would hide all the work I put into them.
> I need to slow down I went and glued up the wheels and now looking at the pictures I forgot to shape the inside of the rims.
> I got so involved with the spokes I forgot.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm making way too many mistakes on this build got the plans for the Delivery Truck which was on sale at Grizzly so losing interest in this project really fast.
> I wasn't interested in the truck when I first saw it a year or so back but looking at the plans there's some cool parts to make.
> Plus one or two of the Bruce's made one so got to keep up with the Bruce's. LOL


----------



## bhuvi

htl said:


> *Playing with a Bob Cat More on the wheels*
> 
> Been wanting to try building the wheel treads like they use on the John Deer traitor but really don't want to build one so trying it out on this build in mini.
> I got in a hurry with the glue up of the treads, just BRRRRR!
> So not going to black the wheels, tryed it on one of the reject parts and it was way to blotchy from the super glue, come to think about it if I blacked them out it would hide all the work I put into them.
> I need to slow down I went and glued up the wheels and now looking at the pictures I forgot to shape the inside of the rims.
> I got so involved with the spokes I forgot.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm making way too many mistakes on this build got the plans for the Delivery Truck which was on sale at Grizzly so losing interest in this project really fast.
> I wasn't interested in the truck when I first saw it a year or so back but looking at the plans there's some cool parts to make.
> Plus one or two of the Bruce's made one so got to keep up with the Bruce's. LOL


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Playing with a Bob Cat More on the wheels*
> 
> Been wanting to try building the wheel treads like they use on the John Deer traitor but really don't want to build one so trying it out on this build in mini.
> I got in a hurry with the glue up of the treads, just BRRRRR!
> So not going to black the wheels, tryed it on one of the reject parts and it was way to blotchy from the super glue, come to think about it if I blacked them out it would hide all the work I put into them.
> I need to slow down I went and glued up the wheels and now looking at the pictures I forgot to shape the inside of the rims.
> I got so involved with the spokes I forgot.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm making way too many mistakes on this build got the plans for the Delivery Truck which was on sale at Grizzly so losing interest in this project really fast.
> I wasn't interested in the truck when I first saw it a year or so back but looking at the plans there's some cool parts to make.
> Plus one or two of the Bruce's made one so got to keep up with the Bruce's. LOL


How'd I miss this????... As always, great looking wheels… love the design of the rims…


----------



## htl

*Delivery Truck*

Starting on the T&J delivery Truck.


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## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Delivery Truck*
> 
> Starting on the T&J delivery Truck.


You're just some kind of toy-making-machine, aint you !


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## BruceBarber

htl said:


> *Delivery Truck*
> 
> Starting on the T&J delivery Truck.


how do i keep up with you ,, LOL great work ,, i builded a truck like that one too ,, check it out if you need some help in it ,,,

Bruce


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## htl

htl said:


> *Delivery Truck*
> 
> Starting on the T&J delivery Truck.


Bruce where do you think I got the idea to make one.* LOL*
That's why I really like it here so many great ideas to be put to good use.
The plans were on sale at Grizzly. LOL


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Delivery Truck*
> 
> Starting on the T&J delivery Truck.


your fast on your way im still on my 65 stang but i took a break


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Delivery Truck*
> 
> Starting on the T&J delivery Truck.


Wot? Plain seats *#4*... Or is the driver gonna sit on da roof.

Gotta use your idea of the depth stop on the drop saw. I always keep thinking that setting the depth and maintaining the kerf is too much hassle… I'm unimaginative and would normally go for the scroll or I'd rather go through the arduous task of a dado set with height adjustment and trying to control the block… I like a challenge as it's more prone to error.


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Delivery Truck*
> 
> Starting on the T&J delivery Truck.


Nice chairs and also the (rest of) course.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Delivery Truck*
> 
> Starting on the T&J delivery Truck.


I go away for a weekend and Bruce has made another beaut model/toy…very impressive sir…


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## htl

htl said:


> *Delivery Truck*
> 
> Starting on the T&J delivery Truck.





> Gotta use your idea of the depth stop on the drop saw. I always keep thinking that setting the depth and maintaining the kerf is too much hassle… I m unimaginative and would normally go for the scroll or I d rather go through the arduous task of a dado set with height adjustment and trying to control the block… I like a challenge as it s more prone to error.
> 
> - LittleBlackDuck


Ducky my scroll saw is on it's last legs so try not to use it any more than I have to, plus I will get a much sharper and straighter edge with the miter saw.
*I only do it this way if my fingers can stay far enough away.*

For me it's the speed of set up, takes seconds to flip the stop down and fine tune the depth of cut.
Notice in the picture I ran a line out from the picture and did some test cuts out away from the part.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Delivery Truck*
> 
> Starting on the T&J delivery Truck.





> Wot? Plain seats *#4*... Or is the driver gonna sit on da roof.
> 
> - LittleBlackDuck


I didn't want the seats to clash with the back. lol


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## htl

htl said:


> *Delivery Truck*
> 
> Starting on the T&J delivery Truck.





> I go away for a weekend and Bruce has made another beaut model/toy…very impressive sir…
> 
> - crowie


*TOYS!!! TOYS!!!*
*I ain't building no stickin TOYS!!! LOL*


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## htl

htl said:


> *Delivery Truck*
> 
> Starting on the T&J delivery Truck.





> You re just some kind of toy-making-machine, aint you !
> 
> - JoeinGa


NO but I got some out in the garage. :=]


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Delivery Truck*
> 
> Starting on the T&J delivery Truck.





> I go away for a weekend and Bruce has made another beaut model/toy…very impressive sir…
> 
> - crowie
> 
> *TOYS!!! TOYS!!!*
> *I ain t building no stickin TOYS!!! LOL*
> 
> - htl


Apologies Bruce…..


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Delivery Truck*
> 
> Starting on the T&J delivery Truck.





> .....
> 
> Ducky my scroll saw is on it s last legs so try not to use it any more than I have to, plus I will get a much sharper and straighter edge with the miter saw.
> *I only do it this way if my fingers can stay far enough away.*
> 
> For me it s the speed of set up, takes seconds to flip the stop down and fine tune the depth of cut.
> Notice in the picture I ran a line out from the picture and did some test cuts out away from the part.
> 
> - htl


*#4*, hope you didn't misconstrue my intentions. It was meant as a big thank you as the practice is more practical from what I employ (even if the scroller was NOT heading for that big workshop in the sky).



> I go away for a weekend and Bruce has made another beaut model/toy…very impressive sir…
> 
> - crowie
> 
> *TOYS!!! TOYS!!!*
> *I ain t building no stickin TOYS!!! LOL*
> 
> - htl
> 
> Apologies Bruce…..
> 
> - crowie


Sorry *#4* but I have to agree with *Crowie*. My past statements of "I'm going to play with my *models*" kept earning me a moon-slap from the missus (ouch!)... So now it's "*TOYs* here I come!"...


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## hnau

htl said:


> *Delivery Truck*
> 
> Starting on the T&J delivery Truck.


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## bhuvi

htl said:


> *Delivery Truck*
> 
> Starting on the T&J delivery Truck.


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## htl

*Delivery Truck Grill & interier*

The pictures on the plans for the front of the truck just don't seem to make much sense to me but I ended up getting something done on it.

It really doesn't look like I got much done but the front end and grill were a pain to figure out so just went my own way and got er done.



















Had some fun working on the seats and steering wheel.
I got to remember to put in a shifter before I glue up the top.
The steering wheel was supposed to look like one with finger grips but looks more like a daisy every time I look at it. lol





















































Somebody said I hadn't put striped seats in well buddy you got to give me time. :=}


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## htl

htl said:


> *Delivery Truck Grill & interier*
> 
> The pictures on the plans for the front of the truck just don't seem to make much sense to me but I ended up getting something done on it.
> 
> It really doesn't look like I got much done but the front end and grill were a pain to figure out so just went my own way and got er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had some fun working on the seats and steering wheel.
> I got to remember to put in a shifter before I glue up the top.
> The steering wheel was supposed to look like one with finger grips but looks more like a daisy every time I look at it. lol
> 
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> 
> Somebody said I hadn't put striped seats in well buddy you got to give me time. :=}


I wanted the seats to match the wall paper.


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Delivery Truck Grill & interier*
> 
> The pictures on the plans for the front of the truck just don't seem to make much sense to me but I ended up getting something done on it.
> 
> It really doesn't look like I got much done but the front end and grill were a pain to figure out so just went my own way and got er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had some fun working on the seats and steering wheel.
> I got to remember to put in a shifter before I glue up the top.
> The steering wheel was supposed to look like one with finger grips but looks more like a daisy every time I look at it. lol
> 
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> 
> Somebody said I hadn't put striped seats in well buddy you got to give me time. :=}


Looking good. IHC Metro?


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Delivery Truck Grill & interier*
> 
> The pictures on the plans for the front of the truck just don't seem to make much sense to me but I ended up getting something done on it.
> 
> It really doesn't look like I got much done but the front end and grill were a pain to figure out so just went my own way and got er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had some fun working on the seats and steering wheel.
> I got to remember to put in a shifter before I glue up the top.
> The steering wheel was supposed to look like one with finger grips but looks more like a daisy every time I look at it. lol
> 
> 
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> 
> Somebody said I hadn't put striped seats in well buddy you got to give me time. :=}


seats to match wallpaper ....... bahahahaaha


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Delivery Truck Grill & interier*
> 
> The pictures on the plans for the front of the truck just don't seem to make much sense to me but I ended up getting something done on it.
> 
> It really doesn't look like I got much done but the front end and grill were a pain to figure out so just went my own way and got er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had some fun working on the seats and steering wheel.
> I got to remember to put in a shifter before I glue up the top.
> The steering wheel was supposed to look like one with finger grips but looks more like a daisy every time I look at it. lol
> 
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> 
> 
> Somebody said I hadn't put striped seats in well buddy you got to give me time. :=}


That steering wheel!


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## bj383ss

htl said:


> *Delivery Truck Grill & interier*
> 
> The pictures on the plans for the front of the truck just don't seem to make much sense to me but I ended up getting something done on it.
> 
> It really doesn't look like I got much done but the front end and grill were a pain to figure out so just went my own way and got er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had some fun working on the seats and steering wheel.
> I got to remember to put in a shifter before I glue up the top.
> The steering wheel was supposed to look like one with finger grips but looks more like a daisy every time I look at it. lol
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Somebody said I hadn't put striped seats in well buddy you got to give me time. :=}


I love how you did the back wall and the seats. Great idea.

Bret


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## hunter71

htl said:


> *Delivery Truck Grill & interier*
> 
> The pictures on the plans for the front of the truck just don't seem to make much sense to me but I ended up getting something done on it.
> 
> It really doesn't look like I got much done but the front end and grill were a pain to figure out so just went my own way and got er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had some fun working on the seats and steering wheel.
> I got to remember to put in a shifter before I glue up the top.
> The steering wheel was supposed to look like one with finger grips but looks more like a daisy every time I look at it. lol
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Somebody said I hadn't put striped seats in well buddy you got to give me time. :=}


I tended to step out off the paper a lot when I was using plans. Go for it.


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## hnau

htl said:


> *Delivery Truck Grill & interier*
> 
> The pictures on the plans for the front of the truck just don't seem to make much sense to me but I ended up getting something done on it.
> 
> It really doesn't look like I got much done but the front end and grill were a pain to figure out so just went my own way and got er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had some fun working on the seats and steering wheel.
> I got to remember to put in a shifter before I glue up the top.
> The steering wheel was supposed to look like one with finger grips but looks more like a daisy every time I look at it. lol
> 
> 
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> 
> Somebody said I hadn't put striped seats in well buddy you got to give me time. :=}


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## bhuvi

htl said:


> *Delivery Truck Grill & interier*
> 
> The pictures on the plans for the front of the truck just don't seem to make much sense to me but I ended up getting something done on it.
> 
> It really doesn't look like I got much done but the front end and grill were a pain to figure out so just went my own way and got er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had some fun working on the seats and steering wheel.
> I got to remember to put in a shifter before I glue up the top.
> The steering wheel was supposed to look like one with finger grips but looks more like a daisy every time I look at it. lol
> 
> 
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> 
> Somebody said I hadn't put striped seats in well buddy you got to give me time. :=}


----------



## htl

*Delivery truck, steps, bumper, roof*

There seems to be a lot more to this project than I would have guessed.
Finished up most of the grill didn't want to add head light till I see how everything comes together.
The step behind the grill was a pain.
Also got the front fenders on as they were part of the steps.



















But had a ball building the front bumper.
Made it all out of one piece of wood.



















Got looking at the pictures and have a ton of the bumper witch I love and nearly nothing on the grill and steps. lol
More bumper pictures. lol

Here's what it looked like when I first made it and then changed it up a bit.








































































Had enough of the bumper now? lol

Painted up the inside so I can glue on the top.


















I love my little daisy steering wheel!!! LOL


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Delivery truck, steps, bumper, roof*
> 
> There seems to be a lot more to this project than I would have guessed.
> Finished up most of the grill didn't want to add head light till I see how everything comes together.
> The step behind the grill was a pain.
> Also got the front fenders on as they were part of the steps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But had a ball building the front bumper.
> Made it all out of one piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got looking at the pictures and have a ton of the bumper witch I love and nearly nothing on the grill and steps. lol
> More bumper pictures. lol
> 
> Here's what it looked like when I first made it and then changed it up a bit.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had enough of the bumper now? lol
> 
> Painted up the inside so I can glue on the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> I love my little daisy steering wheel!!! LOL


Starting to look like one of those Isusu trucks that run around.

Lots of work; but looking good.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Delivery truck, steps, bumper, roof*
> 
> There seems to be a lot more to this project than I would have guessed.
> Finished up most of the grill didn't want to add head light till I see how everything comes together.
> The step behind the grill was a pain.
> Also got the front fenders on as they were part of the steps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But had a ball building the front bumper.
> Made it all out of one piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got looking at the pictures and have a ton of the bumper witch I love and nearly nothing on the grill and steps. lol
> More bumper pictures. lol
> 
> Here's what it looked like when I first made it and then changed it up a bit.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had enough of the bumper now? lol
> 
> Painted up the inside so I can glue on the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> I love my little daisy steering wheel!!! LOL


The bumper bar looks great, YES I too like the steering wheel BUT the best is the laminated timbers on the rear of the cabin & seat….


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Delivery truck, steps, bumper, roof*
> 
> There seems to be a lot more to this project than I would have guessed.
> Finished up most of the grill didn't want to add head light till I see how everything comes together.
> The step behind the grill was a pain.
> Also got the front fenders on as they were part of the steps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But had a ball building the front bumper.
> Made it all out of one piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got looking at the pictures and have a ton of the bumper witch I love and nearly nothing on the grill and steps. lol
> More bumper pictures. lol
> 
> Here's what it looked like when I first made it and then changed it up a bit.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had enough of the bumper now? lol
> 
> Painted up the inside so I can glue on the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love my little daisy steering wheel!!! LOL


Nice bumper *#4*... but one crash and it'll be a pile of mangled toothpicks…

Also like the neglected fender. Is that *one* piece *too*... read that question carefully (I deliberately spelled it slowly)!

That coat of warmth really makes the contrasting timbers pop.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Delivery truck, steps, bumper, roof*
> 
> There seems to be a lot more to this project than I would have guessed.
> Finished up most of the grill didn't want to add head light till I see how everything comes together.
> The step behind the grill was a pain.
> Also got the front fenders on as they were part of the steps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But had a ball building the front bumper.
> Made it all out of one piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got looking at the pictures and have a ton of the bumper witch I love and nearly nothing on the grill and steps. lol
> More bumper pictures. lol
> 
> Here's what it looked like when I first made it and then changed it up a bit.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had enough of the bumper now? lol
> 
> Painted up the inside so I can glue on the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love my little daisy steering wheel!!! LOL


Thanks Ducky for getting me to check out some pictures of the truck.
The plans for the fenders didn't make much sense to me, never thought to check out some picture of the truck.
It's funny on every other build I would print out interesting pictures of a build but the one time I really could have used some I didn't have any. :+[
They left out some key parts back behind the fender from my way of looking at things, so maybe tomorrow I'll erase all the work I did today and start over. WAAAAAAA!!!!! LOL
Or can I just make extra wide wheels to use up all that great fender width?

I seem to be having a lot of trouble with my last couple a builds maybe I need to go back to toy building.


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Delivery truck, steps, bumper, roof*
> 
> There seems to be a lot more to this project than I would have guessed.
> Finished up most of the grill didn't want to add head light till I see how everything comes together.
> The step behind the grill was a pain.
> Also got the front fenders on as they were part of the steps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But had a ball building the front bumper.
> Made it all out of one piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got looking at the pictures and have a ton of the bumper witch I love and nearly nothing on the grill and steps. lol
> More bumper pictures. lol
> 
> Here's what it looked like when I first made it and then changed it up a bit.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had enough of the bumper now? lol
> 
> Painted up the inside so I can glue on the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love my little daisy steering wheel!!! LOL


Looks good so far. Now dont get discouraged and start SKIMPING OUT on the details to finish it up (as you have been known to do )


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Delivery truck, steps, bumper, roof*
> 
> There seems to be a lot more to this project than I would have guessed.
> Finished up most of the grill didn't want to add head light till I see how everything comes together.
> The step behind the grill was a pain.
> Also got the front fenders on as they were part of the steps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But had a ball building the front bumper.
> Made it all out of one piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got looking at the pictures and have a ton of the bumper witch I love and nearly nothing on the grill and steps. lol
> More bumper pictures. lol
> 
> Here's what it looked like when I first made it and then changed it up a bit.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had enough of the bumper now? lol
> 
> Painted up the inside so I can glue on the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love my little daisy steering wheel!!! LOL


*#4*, I was not criticising/questioning the shape of the fender. Just wanted to say that you neglected a biography of it. If I was those upside down bent Us, I would feel left out (and right out for the other side one).


----------



## hnau

htl said:


> *Delivery truck, steps, bumper, roof*
> 
> There seems to be a lot more to this project than I would have guessed.
> Finished up most of the grill didn't want to add head light till I see how everything comes together.
> The step behind the grill was a pain.
> Also got the front fenders on as they were part of the steps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But had a ball building the front bumper.
> Made it all out of one piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got looking at the pictures and have a ton of the bumper witch I love and nearly nothing on the grill and steps. lol
> More bumper pictures. lol
> 
> Here's what it looked like when I first made it and then changed it up a bit.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had enough of the bumper now? lol
> 
> Painted up the inside so I can glue on the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love my little daisy steering wheel!!! LOL


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Delivery truck, steps, bumper, roof*
> 
> There seems to be a lot more to this project than I would have guessed.
> Finished up most of the grill didn't want to add head light till I see how everything comes together.
> The step behind the grill was a pain.
> Also got the front fenders on as they were part of the steps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But had a ball building the front bumper.
> Made it all out of one piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got looking at the pictures and have a ton of the bumper witch I love and nearly nothing on the grill and steps. lol
> More bumper pictures. lol
> 
> Here's what it looked like when I first made it and then changed it up a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had enough of the bumper now? lol
> 
> Painted up the inside so I can glue on the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love my little daisy steering wheel!!! LOL





> *#4*, I was not criticising/questioning the shape of the fender. Just wanted to say that you neglected a biography of it. If I was those upside down bent Us, I would feel left out (and right out for the other side one).
> 
> - LittleBlackDuck


Next time bring a translator with you cause it got me all confused sometimes I just don't understand little ducks.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Delivery truck, steps, bumper, roof*
> 
> There seems to be a lot more to this project than I would have guessed.
> Finished up most of the grill didn't want to add head light till I see how everything comes together.
> The step behind the grill was a pain.
> Also got the front fenders on as they were part of the steps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But had a ball building the front bumper.
> Made it all out of one piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got looking at the pictures and have a ton of the bumper witch I love and nearly nothing on the grill and steps. lol
> More bumper pictures. lol
> 
> Here's what it looked like when I first made it and then changed it up a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had enough of the bumper now? lol
> 
> Painted up the inside so I can glue on the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love my little daisy steering wheel!!! LOL





> Next time bring a translator with you cause it got me all confused sometimes I just don t understand little ducks.
> 
> - htl


That's OK *#4*, the missus always says that most of the time I don't understand myself… however, next time use a *black duck* translator not your normal *cutesey fluffy yellow duck *one.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Delivery truck, steps, bumper, roof*
> 
> There seems to be a lot more to this project than I would have guessed.
> Finished up most of the grill didn't want to add head light till I see how everything comes together.
> The step behind the grill was a pain.
> Also got the front fenders on as they were part of the steps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But had a ball building the front bumper.
> Made it all out of one piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got looking at the pictures and have a ton of the bumper witch I love and nearly nothing on the grill and steps. lol
> More bumper pictures. lol
> 
> Here's what it looked like when I first made it and then changed it up a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had enough of the bumper now? lol
> 
> Painted up the inside so I can glue on the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love my little daisy steering wheel!!! LOL


There really aren't that many little black ducks compared to.









And one just wouldn't cooperate.








And the other one just didn't care one way or the other.









So you got the yeller one.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Delivery truck, steps, bumper, roof*
> 
> There seems to be a lot more to this project than I would have guessed.
> Finished up most of the grill didn't want to add head light till I see how everything comes together.
> The step behind the grill was a pain.
> Also got the front fenders on as they were part of the steps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But had a ball building the front bumper.
> Made it all out of one piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got looking at the pictures and have a ton of the bumper witch I love and nearly nothing on the grill and steps. lol
> More bumper pictures. lol
> 
> Here's what it looked like when I first made it and then changed it up a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had enough of the bumper now? lol
> 
> Painted up the inside so I can glue on the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love my little daisy steering wheel!!! LOL


Now the one that wouldn't co-operate… doesn't it ring a bell.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Delivery truck, steps, bumper, roof*
> 
> There seems to be a lot more to this project than I would have guessed.
> Finished up most of the grill didn't want to add head light till I see how everything comes together.
> The step behind the grill was a pain.
> Also got the front fenders on as they were part of the steps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But had a ball building the front bumper.
> Made it all out of one piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got looking at the pictures and have a ton of the bumper witch I love and nearly nothing on the grill and steps. lol
> More bumper pictures. lol
> 
> Here's what it looked like when I first made it and then changed it up a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had enough of the bumper now? lol
> 
> Painted up the inside so I can glue on the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love my little daisy steering wheel!!! LOL






























And of course there is this whaky duck


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Delivery truck, steps, bumper, roof*
> 
> There seems to be a lot more to this project than I would have guessed.
> Finished up most of the grill didn't want to add head light till I see how everything comes together.
> The step behind the grill was a pain.
> Also got the front fenders on as they were part of the steps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But had a ball building the front bumper.
> Made it all out of one piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got looking at the pictures and have a ton of the bumper witch I love and nearly nothing on the grill and steps. lol
> More bumper pictures. lol
> 
> Here's what it looked like when I first made it and then changed it up a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> Had enough of the bumper now? lol
> 
> Painted up the inside so I can glue on the top.
> 
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> I love my little daisy steering wheel!!! LOL


This is what the missus accuses me of, because of my philanthropy towards the *tool* industry…


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## htl

htl said:


> *Delivery truck, steps, bumper, roof*
> 
> There seems to be a lot more to this project than I would have guessed.
> Finished up most of the grill didn't want to add head light till I see how everything comes together.
> The step behind the grill was a pain.
> Also got the front fenders on as they were part of the steps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> But had a ball building the front bumper.
> Made it all out of one piece of wood.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got looking at the pictures and have a ton of the bumper witch I love and nearly nothing on the grill and steps. lol
> More bumper pictures. lol
> 
> Here's what it looked like when I first made it and then changed it up a bit.
> 
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> 
> Had enough of the bumper now? lol
> 
> Painted up the inside so I can glue on the top.
> 
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> I love my little daisy steering wheel!!! LOL


LOLLLLLLLLLLL!!!!


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## bhuvi

htl said:


> *Delivery truck, steps, bumper, roof*
> 
> There seems to be a lot more to this project than I would have guessed.
> Finished up most of the grill didn't want to add head light till I see how everything comes together.
> The step behind the grill was a pain.
> Also got the front fenders on as they were part of the steps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> But had a ball building the front bumper.
> Made it all out of one piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got looking at the pictures and have a ton of the bumper witch I love and nearly nothing on the grill and steps. lol
> More bumper pictures. lol
> 
> Here's what it looked like when I first made it and then changed it up a bit.
> 
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> 
> Had enough of the bumper now? lol
> 
> Painted up the inside so I can glue on the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> I love my little daisy steering wheel!!! LOL


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## htl

htl said:


> *Delivery truck, steps, bumper, roof*
> 
> There seems to be a lot more to this project than I would have guessed.
> Finished up most of the grill didn't want to add head light till I see how everything comes together.
> The step behind the grill was a pain.
> Also got the front fenders on as they were part of the steps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But had a ball building the front bumper.
> Made it all out of one piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got looking at the pictures and have a ton of the bumper witch I love and nearly nothing on the grill and steps. lol
> More bumper pictures. lol
> 
> Here's what it looked like when I first made it and then changed it up a bit.
> 
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> 
> Had enough of the bumper now? lol
> 
> Painted up the inside so I can glue on the top.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love my little daisy steering wheel!!! LOL





> Looks good so far. Now dont get *discouraged and start SKIMPING OUT on the details* to finish it up (as you have been known to do )
> 
> - JoeinGa


Joe that hurt.
Do you know how much I put into a project and then call it skimping. Ouch


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## htl

*Delivery truck wheels*

Played with making some wheels.
Had a couple different inserts to try, can't say I'm to happy with them but made two sets of tires so may try again.
These are made of cherry and a touch a oak.
2 7/8 tall - 1" wide
Used vinegar & steel wool stain on them.













































I must say what ever Cricket did they really speeded up the up loads WOW!!!


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Delivery truck wheels*
> 
> Played with making some wheels.
> Had a couple different inserts to try, can't say I'm to happy with them but made two sets of tires so may try again.
> These are made of cherry and a touch a oak.
> 2 7/8 tall - 1" wide
> Used vinegar & steel wool stain on them.
> 
> 
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> 
> I must say what ever Cricket did they really speeded up the up loads WOW!!!


Bruce, You certainly make a very nice MODEL wheel sir….


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Delivery truck wheels*
> 
> Played with making some wheels.
> Had a couple different inserts to try, can't say I'm to happy with them but made two sets of tires so may try again.
> These are made of cherry and a touch a oak.
> 2 7/8 tall - 1" wide
> Used vinegar & steel wool stain on them.
> 
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> 
> I must say what ever Cricket did they really speeded up the up loads WOW!!!


Nicely made as crowie has stated.

More work than non-woodworkers ever will realize too!


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## BruceBarber

htl said:


> *Delivery truck wheels*
> 
> Played with making some wheels.
> Had a couple different inserts to try, can't say I'm to happy with them but made two sets of tires so may try again.
> These are made of cherry and a touch a oak.
> 2 7/8 tall - 1" wide
> Used vinegar & steel wool stain on them.
> 
> 
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> 
> I must say what ever Cricket did they really speeded up the up loads WOW!!!


Hey Bruce ,,,i was looking at doing my Hummer wheels like that,, but going to make them 4" x 1 3/4 how many halfs do you have in a wheel and what is the wide size 1/4'


> ?? plus what colour of stain is that and the stin make


great Job ,, keep up the work

Bruce


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## bj383ss

htl said:


> *Delivery truck wheels*
> 
> Played with making some wheels.
> Had a couple different inserts to try, can't say I'm to happy with them but made two sets of tires so may try again.
> These are made of cherry and a touch a oak.
> 2 7/8 tall - 1" wide
> Used vinegar & steel wool stain on them.
> 
> 
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> I must say what ever Cricket did they really speeded up the up loads WOW!!!


Those wheels look fantastic!

Bret


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## htl

htl said:


> *Delivery truck wheels*
> 
> Played with making some wheels.
> Had a couple different inserts to try, can't say I'm to happy with them but made two sets of tires so may try again.
> These are made of cherry and a touch a oak.
> 2 7/8 tall - 1" wide
> Used vinegar & steel wool stain on them.
> 
> 
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> 
> I must say what ever Cricket did they really speeded up the up loads WOW!!!


Bruce the tires are one piece of wood,
1 drill out the centers almost through using a hole saw [ this provides an axle hole, keeps everything in line]
2 band saw them round
3 sand to size on the disk sander
4 drill out the center enough so the router can 
5 shape the inside edge edges, also do out side.
6 cut the cross the tire treads with the tire jig
7 cut the treads around the wheel with the table saw [all table saw cuts using dewalt 7 1/4" 36 tooth blade]

Ps I cut test boards to figure out spacing for the treads.

The stain is a wood treatment that turns the wood black.
Can't think what you call it to save my life, maybe someone will pipe in.
Here's one
Walnut works the best but I hate to use up my walnut.
Cherry what these tires are works pretty well .
oak works but does show some wood grain.
Which ever one you use try to make them all out of the same board, some wood will get black than others.
Old growth new growth stain differently.

Seems like I made a how 2 on this.
Look here.
I hope this is what you were wanting.
If not maybe it will help some one.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Delivery truck wheels*
> 
> Played with making some wheels.
> Had a couple different inserts to try, can't say I'm to happy with them but made two sets of tires so may try again.
> These are made of cherry and a touch a oak.
> 2 7/8 tall - 1" wide
> Used vinegar & steel wool stain on them.
> 
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> I must say what ever Cricket did they really speeded up the up loads WOW!!!


ebozizing ??


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Delivery truck wheels*
> 
> Played with making some wheels.
> Had a couple different inserts to try, can't say I'm to happy with them but made two sets of tires so may try again.
> These are made of cherry and a touch a oak.
> 2 7/8 tall - 1" wide
> Used vinegar & steel wool stain on them.
> 
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> 
> I must say what ever Cricket did they really speeded up the up loads WOW!!!


Feel like a parrot if I say great wheels… So *SQUAWK*...



> Bruce the tires are one piece of wood,
> 1 drill out the centers almost through using a hole saw [ this provides an axle hole, keeps everything in line]
> ...
> 
> - htl


Sorry *#4*, I am confused.
If you use a hole saw as I know them,








I can understand the "axle hole" but how do you hog out the holes for the rim?
The rest certainly makes sense.



> ebozizing ??
> 
> - GR8HUNTER


I have found (only in test samples) that strong black tea (compliments of* PJones *or preferably "tannin powder" dissolved in water/metho) brushed on first and let dry before the "ebonizer" creates a much darker black in lighter timbers like maple.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Delivery truck wheels*
> 
> Played with making some wheels.
> Had a couple different inserts to try, can't say I'm to happy with them but made two sets of tires so may try again.
> These are made of cherry and a touch a oak.
> 2 7/8 tall - 1" wide
> Used vinegar & steel wool stain on them.
> 
> 
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> 
> I must say what ever Cricket did they really speeded up the up loads WOW!!!


Forstner bits to the rescue, just use one smaller than the hole saw hole and hog out the center.
I do it at this stage of the build to save a lot a hole a lining later.
The hole from the hole saw is used for the sanding disk jig, I do have to drill it out to 1/4" to work with the jigs I make.

I've not tried the tea but I guess I need to give it a try, a blacker black is always nice..


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Delivery truck wheels*
> 
> Played with making some wheels.
> Had a couple different inserts to try, can't say I'm to happy with them but made two sets of tires so may try again.
> These are made of cherry and a touch a oak.
> 2 7/8 tall - 1" wide
> Used vinegar & steel wool stain on them.
> 
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> I must say what ever Cricket did they really speeded up the up loads WOW!!!


Nice and ….......big wheels.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Delivery truck wheels*
> 
> Played with making some wheels.
> Had a couple different inserts to try, can't say I'm to happy with them but made two sets of tires so may try again.
> These are made of cherry and a touch a oak.
> 2 7/8 tall - 1" wide
> Used vinegar & steel wool stain on them.
> 
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> 
> I must say what ever Cricket did they really speeded up the up loads WOW!!!





> Forstner bits to the rescue, just use one smaller than the hole saw hole and hog out the center.
> I do it at this stage of the build to save a lot a hole a lining later.
> The hole from the hole saw is used for the sanding disk jig, I do have to drill it out to 1/4" to work with the jigs I make.
> 
> - htl


Sorry for hassling *#4*. I guessed you did something like that and it should be obvious to all. However, giving it a step of it's own completes the picture.
After all "*Once a time*" seems lacking without the *"upon"* in there somewhere.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Delivery truck wheels*
> 
> Played with making some wheels.
> Had a couple different inserts to try, can't say I'm to happy with them but made two sets of tires so may try again.
> These are made of cherry and a touch a oak.
> 2 7/8 tall - 1" wide
> Used vinegar & steel wool stain on them.
> 
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> I must say what ever Cricket did they really speeded up the up loads WOW!!!





> I've not tried the tea but I guess I need to give it a try, a blacker black is always nice..
> 
> - htl


*Pjonesy* put me onto *black tea *and somewhere I must have dreamt about "*tannin powder*" (must be a dream as you know I don't read). Tea containg some amount of tannin, however, I am guessing dedicated "*tannin powder*" would have just a smidgeon more…
This was not a scientific experiment, as the samples were from different cuts of maple scraps, however, you can notice the obvious difference in the small picture below. 
Top timber is basted with *tannin* while the bottom one had a *cupa-T*... b4 the vinegars scrub.










U B the judge….


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## htl

htl said:


> *Delivery truck wheels*
> 
> Played with making some wheels.
> Had a couple different inserts to try, can't say I'm to happy with them but made two sets of tires so may try again.
> These are made of cherry and a touch a oak.
> 2 7/8 tall - 1" wide
> Used vinegar & steel wool stain on them.
> 
> 
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> I must say what ever Cricket did they really speeded up the up loads WOW!!!


As I've said before I keep refining my methods and finding faster and easier ways.
Just jiggling the steps for cutting the holes makes a big difference how easy these are to make.
I really like Dutchy's look much better with the staggered treads but it takes a lot more work and I mean a lot, so my way is the fast and dirty way to get the look with out that much work.
They're not staggered but I can live with that.
I've been thinking of doing a step by step with drill bit sizes to help some make a wheel with everything needed no guess work involved.

That is one nice looking flap wheel you got there in the last picture. Ducky

I kept wondering what the spring was for on your hole saw picture then it hit me to help push the part out, never seen one like that before course I don't pay the big $$$ for my holes saws either. LOL


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## htl

htl said:


> *Delivery truck wheels*
> 
> Played with making some wheels.
> Had a couple different inserts to try, can't say I'm to happy with them but made two sets of tires so may try again.
> These are made of cherry and a touch a oak.
> 2 7/8 tall - 1" wide
> Used vinegar & steel wool stain on them.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> I must say what ever Cricket did they really speeded up the up loads WOW!!!


1a Mark some wood for tires [use a compass] this finds axle hole and where to band saw wheels
1b Drill out the centers almost through using a hole saw [ this provides an axle hole, keeps everything in line]
Needs to be drilled deep enough to give the router bearing room for rounding edge later on.
1c Then take a Forstner bit smaller than the hole saw hole and hog out the center. 
2 band saw them round a tad bigger than needed.
3 sand to size on the disk sander jig
4 drill out the center deep enough so the router can shape the edges.
5 shape the inside edges, also do out side. Do this now for less tread chipping later.
6 cut the cross the tire treads with the tire jig
7 cut the treads around the wheel with the table saw [all table saw cuts using dewalt 7 1/4" 36 tooth blade]
The dewalt 40 and 60 tooth blades both are thinner blades for a slightly thinner kerf.
I use store bought tires for my centers they're cheap and made from maple I think so better wood for drilling and shaping the center parts.
They stain out a little lighter so adds a little contrast but if you want all to match make your own centers.

All of this info are in my posts but spread over a couple a builds and each time tried different ways till I came up doing them in these steps.
Once you get these steps down, you can build a set a tires very quickly.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Delivery truck wheels*
> 
> Played with making some wheels.
> Had a couple different inserts to try, can't say I'm to happy with them but made two sets of tires so may try again.
> These are made of cherry and a touch a oak.
> 2 7/8 tall - 1" wide
> Used vinegar & steel wool stain on them.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> I must say what ever Cricket did they really speeded up the up loads WOW!!!


Adding a little bit more would have loved to add it last post up but it's now closed.
So will add it here to make it easy to copy it all or print out.

1a Mark some wood for tires [use a compass] this finds axle hole and where to band saw wheels
1b Drill out the centers almost through using a hole saw [ this provides an axle hole, keeps everything in line] Needs to be drilled deep enough to give the router bearing room for rounding edge later on.
1c Then take a Forstner bit smaller than the hole saw hole and hog out the center.
2 band saw them round a tad bigger than needed.
3 sand to size on the disk sander jig
4 drill out the center deep enough so the router can shape the edges.
5 shape the inside edges, also do out side. Do this now for less tread chipping later.
6 cut the cross the tire treads with the tire jig
7 cut the treads around the wheel with the table saw [all table saw cuts using dewalt 7 1/4" 36 tooth blade] The dewalt 40 and 60 tooth blades both are thinner blades for a slightly thinner kerf.
I use store bought tires for my centers they're cheap and made from maple I think so better wood for drilling and shaping the center parts.
They stain out a little lighter so adds a little contrast but if you want all to match make your own centers.
*Note* I've been using 1 1/2" store bought wheels but today I ran out of those so tried my hand at some 2" wheels will at new blog to show them.
The 1 1/2" wheels fit just right in one of my hole saw blades, so must be 1 1/2" inside D.
The 2" must be cut down, haven't looked into using bigger hole saw with them would work great with the hummer tires which are really big.
All of this info are in my posts but spread over a couple a builds and each time tried different ways till I came up doing them in these steps.
Once you get these steps down, you can build a set a tires very quickly.


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## helluvawreck

htl said:


> *Delivery truck wheels*
> 
> Played with making some wheels.
> Had a couple different inserts to try, can't say I'm to happy with them but made two sets of tires so may try again.
> These are made of cherry and a touch a oak.
> 2 7/8 tall - 1" wide
> Used vinegar & steel wool stain on them.
> 
> 
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> 
> I must say what ever Cricket did they really speeded up the up loads WOW!!!


These wheels look great. Nice work.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Delivery truck wheels*
> 
> Played with making some wheels.
> Had a couple different inserts to try, can't say I'm to happy with them but made two sets of tires so may try again.
> These are made of cherry and a touch a oak.
> 2 7/8 tall - 1" wide
> Used vinegar & steel wool stain on them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I must say what ever Cricket did they really speeded up the up loads WOW!!!





> I kept wondering what the spring was for on your hole saw picture then it hit me to help push the part out, never seen one like that before course I don t pay the big $$$ for my holes saws either. LOL
> 
> - htl


Guilty of plagiarism but innocent of spendthriftism *#4*. Just took the 1st. picture I found on the Internet to put picture to my statement that "a non-through hole with a hole saw leaves residue that needs cleaning up". Didn't take notice of the spring (DOH!). With my experience of hole-saw waste extraction, it'd need to be such a heavy spring to eject that *not-so-slippery-sucker-of-a-plug*, you'd need three hands to lower the quill, to fight the spring, to cut into the wood.


> That is one nice looking flap wheel you got there in the last picture. Ducky
> 
> - htl


Must admit it is a great little addition to the sanding arsenal. Great for the contoured T&J parts though a killer on the manicure. It is mounted on a slow speed grinder with 180 grit on one spindle and 240 on the other. Searched high and wide for the 1/2 speed grinder as a normal grinder was far too fast for the 8" flappers and created such a wind draft that I had to buy my toupee back from my neighbour.. two doors down..
Unfortunately that is where the big $$$ are, for the flap wheels (and replacement strips). Fortunately I have an understanding missus that is not a *shoe-a-holic* so there is some money left in the kitty.


> I really like Dutchy s look much better with the staggered treads but it takes a lot more work and I mean a lot, so my way is the fast and dirty way to get the look with out that much work.
> 
> - htl


Don't sell yourself too short *#4*. While the staggered wheel may "look better", in context, they may be an *overkill *for a "lowly" delivery truck. After all if the delivery guy had money he'd be racing the rig on *slicks* and not *non-staggered treads*. Staggered treads would be more suited to power wagons and monster trucks.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Delivery truck wheels*
> 
> Played with making some wheels.
> Had a couple different inserts to try, can't say I'm to happy with them but made two sets of tires so may try again.
> These are made of cherry and a touch a oak.
> 2 7/8 tall - 1" wide
> Used vinegar & steel wool stain on them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I must say what ever Cricket did they really speeded up the up loads WOW!!!


"Don't sell yourself too short #4. While the staggered wheel may "look better", in context, they may be an overkill for a "lowly" delivery truck. After all if the delivery guy had money he'd be racing the rig on slicks and not non-staggered treads. Staggered treads would be more suited to power wagons and monster trucks."

So your saying I'm building a no talent truck, not worthy of a nice set a wheels. *LOL*

*YES HE IS!!!!* He's got striped wall paper not only in the back but the roof too!!!!!
And! Striped seat cover and!







!







!!! *LOL*


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Delivery truck wheels*
> 
> Played with making some wheels.
> Had a couple different inserts to try, can't say I'm to happy with them but made two sets of tires so may try again.
> These are made of cherry and a touch a oak.
> 2 7/8 tall - 1" wide
> Used vinegar & steel wool stain on them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I must say what ever Cricket did they really speeded up the up loads WOW!!!


Sorry* #4*, but the missus whacked me on the back of the head and hollered, "You gonna take that sitting down?"


> "Don't sell *"yourself too short" *#4…
> 
> .......
> 
> So your saying I m building a no talent truck, not worthy of a nice set a wheels. *LOL*
> 
> - htl


Sell* "ice-cream"!!!*

Just a coat of pinkie and some speakers…


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Delivery truck wheels*
> 
> Played with making some wheels.
> Had a couple different inserts to try, can't say I'm to happy with them but made two sets of tires so may try again.
> These are made of cherry and a touch a oak.
> 2 7/8 tall - 1" wide
> Used vinegar & steel wool stain on them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I must say what ever Cricket did they really speeded up the up loads WOW!!!


Ducky here's a secret and don't let any one else know.
I'm not building a delivery truck, it's going to be use it to haul my Sprint car to the races.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Delivery truck wheels*
> 
> Played with making some wheels.
> Had a couple different inserts to try, can't say I'm to happy with them but made two sets of tires so may try again.
> These are made of cherry and a touch a oak.
> 2 7/8 tall - 1" wide
> Used vinegar & steel wool stain on them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I must say what ever Cricket did they really speeded up the up loads WOW!!!


B…b…b…but.. but… but… it's red?


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Delivery truck wheels*
> 
> Played with making some wheels.
> Had a couple different inserts to try, can't say I'm to happy with them but made two sets of tires so may try again.
> These are made of cherry and a touch a oak.
> 2 7/8 tall - 1" wide
> Used vinegar & steel wool stain on them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I must say what ever Cricket did they really speeded up the up loads WOW!!!





> B…b…b…but.. but… but… it s red?
> 
> - LittleBlackDuck


Come on Ducky, Red Cars go faster…...


----------



## htl

*Delivery truck More about wheels and the roof*

Wanted to play with my other set a wheels but ran out of 1 1/2" wheels for centers so lets try some 2" for a change up.
Here's the wheels I ebanized.








And here's the new set of tires I can't beleave I didn't take any pictures of the new wheels being put together.
I meant to add lug nuts but got busy gluing up and didn't notice till it was to late. GRRRRR!!!

*Note to self* drill the spoke holes one size bigger next time,will have a tad better reveal.
It took all day to figure out what I wanted, and once I've committed to some thing it never fails that I see something that would have been better. [next time]








Looks like the new tires will match the truck better.


















Ebanized the new set.








Danish oil on the tires made yesterday.









Shot with out the flash for a more natural look see.









Fixed the fenders and glued on the roof.

















Think I got enough strips on this build?


----------



## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Delivery truck More about wheels and the roof*
> 
> Wanted to play with my other set a wheels but ran out of 1 1/2" wheels for centers so lets try some 2" for a change up.
> Here's the wheels I ebanized.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's the new set of tires I can't beleave I didn't take any pictures of the new wheels being put together.
> I meant to add lug nuts but got busy gluing up and didn't notice till it was to late. GRRRRR!!!
> 
> *Note to self* drill the spoke holes one size bigger next time,will have a tad better reveal.
> It took all day to figure out what I wanted, and once I've committed to some thing it never fails that I see something that would have been better. [next time]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like the new tires will match the truck better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ebanized the new set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Danish oil on the tires made yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shot with out the flash for a more natural look see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fixed the fenders and glued on the roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Think I got enough strips on this build?


I'm really diggin' this one ! 
.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Delivery truck More about wheels and the roof*
> 
> Wanted to play with my other set a wheels but ran out of 1 1/2" wheels for centers so lets try some 2" for a change up.
> Here's the wheels I ebanized.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's the new set of tires I can't beleave I didn't take any pictures of the new wheels being put together.
> I meant to add lug nuts but got busy gluing up and didn't notice till it was to late. GRRRRR!!!
> 
> *Note to self* drill the spoke holes one size bigger next time,will have a tad better reveal.
> It took all day to figure out what I wanted, and once I've committed to some thing it never fails that I see something that would have been better. [next time]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like the new tires will match the truck better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ebanized the new set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Danish oil on the tires made yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shot with out the flash for a more natural look see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fixed the fenders and glued on the roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Think I got enough strips on this build?


You scared me Joe!!!
I was scrolling down checking the post for errors, and see this big thumb sticking out of the screen. LOL
My wife was looking in and!!!


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Delivery truck More about wheels and the roof*
> 
> Wanted to play with my other set a wheels but ran out of 1 1/2" wheels for centers so lets try some 2" for a change up.
> Here's the wheels I ebanized.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's the new set of tires I can't beleave I didn't take any pictures of the new wheels being put together.
> I meant to add lug nuts but got busy gluing up and didn't notice till it was to late. GRRRRR!!!
> 
> *Note to self* drill the spoke holes one size bigger next time,will have a tad better reveal.
> It took all day to figure out what I wanted, and once I've committed to some thing it never fails that I see something that would have been better. [next time]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like the new tires will match the truck better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ebanized the new set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Danish oil on the tires made yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shot with out the flash for a more natural look see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fixed the fenders and glued on the roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Think I got enough strips on this build?


We certainly do have fun on LumberJocks….

AND the wheel do look good Bruce…


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## PaulDoug

htl said:


> *Delivery truck More about wheels and the roof*
> 
> Wanted to play with my other set a wheels but ran out of 1 1/2" wheels for centers so lets try some 2" for a change up.
> Here's the wheels I ebanized.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's the new set of tires I can't beleave I didn't take any pictures of the new wheels being put together.
> I meant to add lug nuts but got busy gluing up and didn't notice till it was to late. GRRRRR!!!
> 
> *Note to self* drill the spoke holes one size bigger next time,will have a tad better reveal.
> It took all day to figure out what I wanted, and once I've committed to some thing it never fails that I see something that would have been better. [next time]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like the new tires will match the truck better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ebanized the new set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Danish oil on the tires made yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shot with out the flash for a more natural look see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fixed the fenders and glued on the roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Think I got enough strips on this build?


Wow oh WOW!


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Delivery truck More about wheels and the roof*
> 
> Wanted to play with my other set a wheels but ran out of 1 1/2" wheels for centers so lets try some 2" for a change up.
> Here's the wheels I ebanized.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's the new set of tires I can't beleave I didn't take any pictures of the new wheels being put together.
> I meant to add lug nuts but got busy gluing up and didn't notice till it was to late. GRRRRR!!!
> 
> *Note to self* drill the spoke holes one size bigger next time,will have a tad better reveal.
> It took all day to figure out what I wanted, and once I've committed to some thing it never fails that I see something that would have been better. [next time]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like the new tires will match the truck better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ebanized the new set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Danish oil on the tires made yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shot with out the flash for a more natural look see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fixed the fenders and glued on the roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Think I got enough strips on this build?


A very nice model coming along well.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Delivery truck More about wheels and the roof*
> 
> Wanted to play with my other set a wheels but ran out of 1 1/2" wheels for centers so lets try some 2" for a change up.
> Here's the wheels I ebanized.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's the new set of tires I can't beleave I didn't take any pictures of the new wheels being put together.
> I meant to add lug nuts but got busy gluing up and didn't notice till it was to late. GRRRRR!!!
> 
> *Note to self* drill the spoke holes one size bigger next time,will have a tad better reveal.
> It took all day to figure out what I wanted, and once I've committed to some thing it never fails that I see something that would have been better. [next time]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like the new tires will match the truck better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ebanized the new set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Danish oil on the tires made yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shot with out the flash for a more natural look see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fixed the fenders and glued on the roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Think I got enough strips on this build?


Name it *Zebra*.


> *Note to self* drill the spoke holes one size bigger next time,will have a tad better reveal.
> 
> - htl


Sometimes bigger is not better (I can't believe I said that… lucky it was written). Personally I like the subtle smaller reveal. Either way the wheels still look great (even with t*I*res).


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Delivery truck More about wheels and the roof*
> 
> Wanted to play with my other set a wheels but ran out of 1 1/2" wheels for centers so lets try some 2" for a change up.
> Here's the wheels I ebanized.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's the new set of tires I can't beleave I didn't take any pictures of the new wheels being put together.
> I meant to add lug nuts but got busy gluing up and didn't notice till it was to late. GRRRRR!!!
> 
> *Note to self* drill the spoke holes one size bigger next time,will have a tad better reveal.
> It took all day to figure out what I wanted, and once I've committed to some thing it never fails that I see something that would have been better. [next time]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like the new tires will match the truck better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ebanized the new set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Danish oil on the tires made yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shot with out the flash for a more natural look see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fixed the fenders and glued on the roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Think I got enough strips on this build?


Thanks guys I really like making wheels but you all didn't know that did you. LOL


----------



## htl

*Delivery truck Back Deck and more wheel pictures*

I really need to change the name of this post now that I figured out what it's going to be.
It's a flat bed wrecker that I will be used to display the Sprint car on.
I came up with the idea to make my models work with one another like this truck carrying the sprint car.
My lowboy carry's the Bull Dozer and Bob Cat.

The Sprint car is out of scale with the truck but that's not a problem with me.






























































And you all thought I was done with the strips. LOL


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## bruce317

htl said:


> *Delivery truck Back Deck and more wheel pictures*
> 
> I really need to change the name of this post now that I figured out what it's going to be.
> It's a flat bed wrecker that I will be used to display the Sprint car on.
> I came up with the idea to make my models work with one another like this truck carrying the sprint car.
> My lowboy carry's the Bull Dozer and Bob Cat.
> 
> The Sprint car is out of scale with the truck but that's not a problem with me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you all thought I was done with the strips. LOL


Bruce, Another winning combination.


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Delivery truck Back Deck and more wheel pictures*
> 
> I really need to change the name of this post now that I figured out what it's going to be.
> It's a flat bed wrecker that I will be used to display the Sprint car on.
> I came up with the idea to make my models work with one another like this truck carrying the sprint car.
> My lowboy carry's the Bull Dozer and Bob Cat.
> 
> The Sprint car is out of scale with the truck but that's not a problem with me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you all thought I was done with the strips. LOL


Toys are JOYS to make1 Even the shelf type.

Good looking project!


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## htl

htl said:


> *Delivery truck Back Deck and more wheel pictures*
> 
> I really need to change the name of this post now that I figured out what it's going to be.
> It's a flat bed wrecker that I will be used to display the Sprint car on.
> I came up with the idea to make my models work with one another like this truck carrying the sprint car.
> My lowboy carry's the Bull Dozer and Bob Cat.
> 
> The Sprint car is out of scale with the truck but that's not a problem with me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you all thought I was done with the strips. LOL


thanks guys!


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Delivery truck Back Deck and more wheel pictures*
> 
> I really need to change the name of this post now that I figured out what it's going to be.
> It's a flat bed wrecker that I will be used to display the Sprint car on.
> I came up with the idea to make my models work with one another like this truck carrying the sprint car.
> My lowboy carry's the Bull Dozer and Bob Cat.
> 
> The Sprint car is out of scale with the truck but that's not a problem with me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> And you all thought I was done with the strips. LOL


Nice *#4*... but that racer isn't *RED*!

And quit trying to seduce us with those pictures of your wheels… I like those small holes on the rear wheels…


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## htl

htl said:


> *Delivery truck Back Deck and more wheel pictures*
> 
> I really need to change the name of this post now that I figured out what it's going to be.
> It's a flat bed wrecker that I will be used to display the Sprint car on.
> I came up with the idea to make my models work with one another like this truck carrying the sprint car.
> My lowboy carry's the Bull Dozer and Bob Cat.
> 
> The Sprint car is out of scale with the truck but that's not a problem with me.
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> And you all thought I was done with the strips. LOL


Sorry Ducky you'll just have to make a set on that newfangled gizmo of your to get over it. lol


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Delivery truck Back Deck and more wheel pictures*
> 
> I really need to change the name of this post now that I figured out what it's going to be.
> It's a flat bed wrecker that I will be used to display the Sprint car on.
> I came up with the idea to make my models work with one another like this truck carrying the sprint car.
> My lowboy carry's the Bull Dozer and Bob Cat.
> 
> The Sprint car is out of scale with the truck but that's not a problem with me.
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> And you all thought I was done with the strips. LOL


I hope that beaut stripped tray on the back is going to be "a tilt tray" version to facilitate the easy loading and unloading of that great sprint car….


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## htl

htl said:


> *Delivery truck Back Deck and more wheel pictures*
> 
> I really need to change the name of this post now that I figured out what it's going to be.
> It's a flat bed wrecker that I will be used to display the Sprint car on.
> I came up with the idea to make my models work with one another like this truck carrying the sprint car.
> My lowboy carry's the Bull Dozer and Bob Cat.
> 
> The Sprint car is out of scale with the truck but that's not a problem with me.
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> And you all thought I was done with the strips. LOL


Tha'ts the idea Crowie,
Going to figure out the slide gizmo and hydraulics today if all goes well..


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## htl

*Delivery truck working on the deck*

Rained here all day and man I'm hurting but got some time in the shop and figured out the deck for the race car.













































Got to put in some tire pictures to keep Ducky happy.

Ducky I need some track and roller pictures when you get to them.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Delivery truck working on the deck*
> 
> Rained here all day and man I'm hurting but got some time in the shop and figured out the deck for the race car.
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> Got to put in some tire pictures to keep Ducky happy.
> 
> Ducky I need some track and roller pictures when you get to them.


The tray is looking good Bruce, but very sorry to hear it was at a cost…..


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Delivery truck working on the deck*
> 
> Rained here all day and man I'm hurting but got some time in the shop and figured out the deck for the race car.
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> Got to put in some tire pictures to keep Ducky happy.
> 
> Ducky I need some track and roller pictures when you get to them.





> .....
> Got to put in some tire pictures to keep Ducky happy.
> .....
> 
> - htl


Still waiting for my t*Y*res!!!


> .....
> Ducky I need some* track *and *roller *pictures when you get to them.
> .....
> - htl


*#4*, your wish is my command… but only 1 to start with…


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Delivery truck working on the deck*
> 
> Rained here all day and man I'm hurting but got some time in the shop and figured out the deck for the race car.
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> Got to put in some tire pictures to keep Ducky happy.
> 
> Ducky I need some track and roller pictures when you get to them.


Looking very fine!

Rain == PAIN! Damned uncle Arthur (RITIS) is a mean old devil!

I hope you have NOT had that companion for the 60+ years I have had to put up with him!


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Delivery truck working on the deck*
> 
> Rained here all day and man I'm hurting but got some time in the shop and figured out the deck for the race car.
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> Got to put in some tire pictures to keep Ducky happy.
> 
> Ducky I need some track and roller pictures when you get to them.


He is getting nicer and nicer. I like the two tone trailer floor very much.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Delivery truck working on the deck*
> 
> Rained here all day and man I'm hurting but got some time in the shop and figured out the deck for the race car.
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> Got to put in some tire pictures to keep Ducky happy.
> 
> Ducky I need some track and roller pictures when you get to them.


Ducky not the track and roller I had in mind but did give me a LOL moment.
Ralbuck been hurting for years but it seems to be kicking up a natch here lately.
Thanks Dutchy Once I did the back wall just couldn't stop with the strips, hope it isn't to much once the oil hits it.


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## htl

*Delivery Truck---Race Car Hauler All most there*

Well it's starting to come together and look like something.
Got the runners, hydraulics,gas tank,tool box and axles all put into place.
Quite a few pictures trying to help you get a picture of what was done.This is a oak and walnut project.
For those of you just checking it out this is a Toys And Joys plan with a few small changes and then a scratch built hauler bed for my Sprint car.
Sorry for the bad pictures.
















































































The hydraulic are from a left over one from another build the same with the bracket.
As much trouble as it is to make hydraulics at least for me it pays to make extra parts since the tools are already set up so why not make extras.


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## bruce317

htl said:


> *Delivery Truck---Race Car Hauler All most there*
> 
> Well it's starting to come together and look like something.
> Got the runners, hydraulics,gas tank,tool box and axles all put into place.
> Quite a few pictures trying to help you get a picture of what was done.This is a oak and walnut project.
> For those of you just checking it out this is a Toys And Joys plan with a few small changes and then a scratch built hauler bed for my Sprint car.
> Sorry for the bad pictures.
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> The hydraulic are from a left over one from another build the same with the bracket.
> As much trouble as it is to make hydraulics at least for me it pays to make extra parts since the tools are already set up so why not make extras.


Bruce, The roll back bed Is way cool.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Delivery Truck---Race Car Hauler All most there*
> 
> Well it's starting to come together and look like something.
> Got the runners, hydraulics,gas tank,tool box and axles all put into place.
> Quite a few pictures trying to help you get a picture of what was done.This is a oak and walnut project.
> For those of you just checking it out this is a Toys And Joys plan with a few small changes and then a scratch built hauler bed for my Sprint car.
> Sorry for the bad pictures.
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> The hydraulic are from a left over one from another build the same with the bracket.
> As much trouble as it is to make hydraulics at least for me it pays to make extra parts since the tools are already set up so why not make extras.


Hey *#4*, You may loose your crown for wheel making and replaced by tray making. That's one helluva great design and addition to the "ice-creamer".

We have people like that in my neighbourhood,








steal your wheels and leave the car on blocks.


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Delivery Truck---Race Car Hauler All most there*
> 
> Well it's starting to come together and look like something.
> Got the runners, hydraulics,gas tank,tool box and axles all put into place.
> Quite a few pictures trying to help you get a picture of what was done.This is a oak and walnut project.
> For those of you just checking it out this is a Toys And Joys plan with a few small changes and then a scratch built hauler bed for my Sprint car.
> Sorry for the bad pictures.
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> The hydraulic are from a left over one from another build the same with the bracket.
> As much trouble as it is to make hydraulics at least for me it pays to make extra parts since the tools are already set up so why not make extras.


I like the hydraulic cylinder. Having used many; I have to compliment the accuracy!

Great looking model. Are you going to ad the winch on the front of the bed?


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## htl

htl said:


> *Delivery Truck---Race Car Hauler All most there*
> 
> Well it's starting to come together and look like something.
> Got the runners, hydraulics,gas tank,tool box and axles all put into place.
> Quite a few pictures trying to help you get a picture of what was done.This is a oak and walnut project.
> For those of you just checking it out this is a Toys And Joys plan with a few small changes and then a scratch built hauler bed for my Sprint car.
> Sorry for the bad pictures.
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> The hydraulic are from a left over one from another build the same with the bracket.
> As much trouble as it is to make hydraulics at least for me it pays to make extra parts since the tools are already set up so why not make extras.


"We have people like that in my neighbourhood,"

*I'm thinking what is he talking about this time,I was about ready to call the translator then I saw,
*

"steal your wheels and leave the car on blocks." 
So!! Funny!!!
ralbuck I'm thinking about it, yes I am.
I want to get everything else done first cause cold weather is just about here so won't be getting in the shop for a couple a days at least.

ralbuck don't tell anyone but I think I should a lowered the main hydraulic bracket a little for better leverage but it's there now so happy happy.

Thanks Bruce#3 I'm really happy the way it came out of no where and will fit in with my other models just right.


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## johnstoneb

htl said:


> *Delivery Truck---Race Car Hauler All most there*
> 
> Well it's starting to come together and look like something.
> Got the runners, hydraulics,gas tank,tool box and axles all put into place.
> Quite a few pictures trying to help you get a picture of what was done.This is a oak and walnut project.
> For those of you just checking it out this is a Toys And Joys plan with a few small changes and then a scratch built hauler bed for my Sprint car.
> Sorry for the bad pictures.
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> The hydraulic are from a left over one from another build the same with the bracket.
> As much trouble as it is to make hydraulics at least for me it pays to make extra parts since the tools are already set up so why not make extras.


Great job
I was hoping to see a rollback and you didn't disappoint. Good job


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Delivery Truck---Race Car Hauler All most there*
> 
> Well it's starting to come together and look like something.
> Got the runners, hydraulics,gas tank,tool box and axles all put into place.
> Quite a few pictures trying to help you get a picture of what was done.This is a oak and walnut project.
> For those of you just checking it out this is a Toys And Joys plan with a few small changes and then a scratch built hauler bed for my Sprint car.
> Sorry for the bad pictures.
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> The hydraulic are from a left over one from another build the same with the bracket.
> As much trouble as it is to make hydraulics at least for me it pays to make extra parts since the tools are already set up so why not make extras.


What a brilliant and yet simple mechanism Bruce…TOP MARKS Sir…


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Delivery Truck---Race Car Hauler All most there*
> 
> Well it's starting to come together and look like something.
> Got the runners, hydraulics,gas tank,tool box and axles all put into place.
> Quite a few pictures trying to help you get a picture of what was done.This is a oak and walnut project.
> For those of you just checking it out this is a Toys And Joys plan with a few small changes and then a scratch built hauler bed for my Sprint car.
> Sorry for the bad pictures.
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> The hydraulic are from a left over one from another build the same with the bracket.
> As much trouble as it is to make hydraulics at least for me it pays to make extra parts since the tools are already set up so why not make extras.


At the end and after many blogs ypu are still able to suprice me. Great rolback Bruce.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Delivery Truck---Race Car Hauler All most there*
> 
> Well it's starting to come together and look like something.
> Got the runners, hydraulics,gas tank,tool box and axles all put into place.
> Quite a few pictures trying to help you get a picture of what was done.This is a oak and walnut project.
> For those of you just checking it out this is a Toys And Joys plan with a few small changes and then a scratch built hauler bed for my Sprint car.
> Sorry for the bad pictures.
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> The hydraulic are from a left over one from another build the same with the bracket.
> As much trouble as it is to make hydraulics at least for me it pays to make extra parts since the tools are already set up so why not make extras.


WOW …........ delivery with a huge twist …... instead of boxes or skids ….. it is delivering a sprinter …...love how the bed works …..... VERY KEWL …........A GREAT JOB


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## htl

htl said:


> *Delivery Truck---Race Car Hauler All most there*
> 
> Well it's starting to come together and look like something.
> Got the runners, hydraulics,gas tank,tool box and axles all put into place.
> Quite a few pictures trying to help you get a picture of what was done.This is a oak and walnut project.
> For those of you just checking it out this is a Toys And Joys plan with a few small changes and then a scratch built hauler bed for my Sprint car.
> Sorry for the bad pictures.
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> The hydraulic are from a left over one from another build the same with the bracket.
> As much trouble as it is to make hydraulics at least for me it pays to make extra parts since the tools are already set up so why not make extras.


Thanks all your encouragement helps keep me going.


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## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Delivery Truck---Race Car Hauler All most there*
> 
> Well it's starting to come together and look like something.
> Got the runners, hydraulics,gas tank,tool box and axles all put into place.
> Quite a few pictures trying to help you get a picture of what was done.This is a oak and walnut project.
> For those of you just checking it out this is a Toys And Joys plan with a few small changes and then a scratch built hauler bed for my Sprint car.
> Sorry for the bad pictures.
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> The hydraulic are from a left over one from another build the same with the bracket.
> As much trouble as it is to make hydraulics at least for me it pays to make extra parts since the tools are already set up so why not make extras.





> I like the hydraulic cylinder. Having used many; I have to compliment the accuracy!
> 
> Great looking model. *Are you going to ad the winch on the front of the bed?
> *
> - ralbuck


Uhmmmm, remember, this is the guy who has a hard time finishing the "finishing details". Once the basic vehicle is done, it's likely he'll move on to something ELSE, and we'll never see that winch !

Oh, but nice job on the truck Brucie - Boy !


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## htl

htl said:


> *Delivery Truck---Race Car Hauler All most there*
> 
> Well it's starting to come together and look like something.
> Got the runners, hydraulics,gas tank,tool box and axles all put into place.
> Quite a few pictures trying to help you get a picture of what was done.This is a oak and walnut project.
> For those of you just checking it out this is a Toys And Joys plan with a few small changes and then a scratch built hauler bed for my Sprint car.
> Sorry for the bad pictures.
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> The hydraulic are from a left over one from another build the same with the bracket.
> As much trouble as it is to make hydraulics at least for me it pays to make extra parts since the tools are already set up so why not make extras.


Wow Joe you really made my day!!!
I limped out into the shop about 11am was the soonest I could manage and got to work, putting in head lights and turn signals added some rear mud flaps.
Fixed the tires where my wife got in the shop and spray painted something with gold paint and got it on the tires.
Then took it all apart for one last sanding and put the finish on it, and really all happy about the way it turned out and limped in to my computer room to show it to you all, but it's not done I read needs mirrors And and and.

So lets just put it on the shelf with the sprint car that's not finished and look at it and be happy for a project I really enjoyed building for the build not for any thing else, just the joy of figuring some thing out and being able to show some others of like mind and a love of wood working.

For me *it's finished*, as far as I want to take it and I'm happy with that so be happy for me and let it go!!!..


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Delivery Truck---Race Car Hauler All most there*
> 
> Well it's starting to come together and look like something.
> Got the runners, hydraulics,gas tank,tool box and axles all put into place.
> Quite a few pictures trying to help you get a picture of what was done.This is a oak and walnut project.
> For those of you just checking it out this is a Toys And Joys plan with a few small changes and then a scratch built hauler bed for my Sprint car.
> Sorry for the bad pictures.
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> The hydraulic are from a left over one from another build the same with the bracket.
> As much trouble as it is to make hydraulics at least for me it pays to make extra parts since the tools are already set up so why not make extras.





> .....
> but it s not done I read needs mirrors *And* and *and*.
> .....
> For me *it's finished*, as far as I want to take it and I m happy with that so be happy for me and let it go!!!..
> 
> - htl


Hey *#4*, I understand. Less surface area for the dust to settle on.

Great result… well done!


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## htl

htl said:


> *Delivery Truck---Race Car Hauler All most there*
> 
> Well it's starting to come together and look like something.
> Got the runners, hydraulics,gas tank,tool box and axles all put into place.
> Quite a few pictures trying to help you get a picture of what was done.This is a oak and walnut project.
> For those of you just checking it out this is a Toys And Joys plan with a few small changes and then a scratch built hauler bed for my Sprint car.
> Sorry for the bad pictures.
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> The hydraulic are from a left over one from another build the same with the bracket.
> As much trouble as it is to make hydraulics at least for me it pays to make extra parts since the tools are already set up so why not make extras.


The finished project is here.
Hope you liked it I sure had a ball making it.


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## htl

*Playing with a Caterpillar*

Lets see if we can talk him in to walking a little bit.

Toymakingdad built a caterpillar Automata and I just loved it so had to give it a try.
I should add he gives a very complete how to with many problem solving ideas, because there can be problems getting everything just so.
I never knew caterpillars could be so much trouble.
It's just made out of scraps I had laying around the shop.
Pine and more pine. LOL




































Then I thought I would change it up a bit and make him one of them furry one's.

















I had to add it to face book for the video to work.
It hasn't been waxed up yet but seems to work pretty well.
Now lets see if we can talk him in to walking a little bit.


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## PaulDoug

htl said:


> *Playing with a Caterpillar*
> 
> Lets see if we can talk him in to walking a little bit.
> 
> Toymakingdad built a caterpillar Automata and I just loved it so had to give it a try.
> I should add he gives a very complete how to with many problem solving ideas, because there can be problems getting everything just so.
> I never knew caterpillars could be so much trouble.
> It's just made out of scraps I had laying around the shop.
> Pine and more pine. LOL
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> Then I thought I would change it up a bit and make him one of them furry one's.
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> I had to add it to face book for the video to work.
> It hasn't been waxed up yet but seems to work pretty well.
> Now lets see if we can talk him in to walking a little bit.


Ha ha ha,, darn cool!


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Playing with a Caterpillar*
> 
> Lets see if we can talk him in to walking a little bit.
> 
> Toymakingdad built a caterpillar Automata and I just loved it so had to give it a try.
> I should add he gives a very complete how to with many problem solving ideas, because there can be problems getting everything just so.
> I never knew caterpillars could be so much trouble.
> It's just made out of scraps I had laying around the shop.
> Pine and more pine. LOL
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> I had to add it to face book for the video to work.
> It hasn't been waxed up yet but seems to work pretty well.
> Now lets see if we can talk him in to walking a little bit.


That is one neat project *#4*... Would make a good conversation piece, rather than have those little ankle bitters rip it's legs off. 


> .....
> I never knew caterpillars could be so much trouble.
> .....
> 
> - htl


You should have spoken to *MY fruit trees*...


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## ToyMakingDad

htl said:


> *Playing with a Caterpillar*
> 
> Lets see if we can talk him in to walking a little bit.
> 
> Toymakingdad built a caterpillar Automata and I just loved it so had to give it a try.
> I should add he gives a very complete how to with many problem solving ideas, because there can be problems getting everything just so.
> I never knew caterpillars could be so much trouble.
> It's just made out of scraps I had laying around the shop.
> Pine and more pine. LOL
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> I had to add it to face book for the video to work.
> It hasn't been waxed up yet but seems to work pretty well.
> Now lets see if we can talk him in to walking a little bit.


WOW! That looks so freakin' cool! Brilliant and creative. Really well done.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Playing with a Caterpillar*
> 
> Lets see if we can talk him in to walking a little bit.
> 
> Toymakingdad built a caterpillar Automata and I just loved it so had to give it a try.
> I should add he gives a very complete how to with many problem solving ideas, because there can be problems getting everything just so.
> I never knew caterpillars could be so much trouble.
> It's just made out of scraps I had laying around the shop.
> Pine and more pine. LOL
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> I had to add it to face book for the video to work.
> It hasn't been waxed up yet but seems to work pretty well.
> Now lets see if we can talk him in to walking a little bit.


With a bit of colour, the kids will just love it to bits…


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Playing with a Caterpillar*
> 
> Lets see if we can talk him in to walking a little bit.
> 
> Toymakingdad built a caterpillar Automata and I just loved it so had to give it a try.
> I should add he gives a very complete how to with many problem solving ideas, because there can be problems getting everything just so.
> I never knew caterpillars could be so much trouble.
> It's just made out of scraps I had laying around the shop.
> Pine and more pine. LOL
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> I had to add it to face book for the video to work.
> It hasn't been waxed up yet but seems to work pretty well.
> Now lets see if we can talk him in to walking a little bit.





> With a bit of colour, the kids will just love it to bits…
> 
> - crowie


Non-lead paint on the kids… PLEASE!


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Playing with a Caterpillar*
> 
> Lets see if we can talk him in to walking a little bit.
> 
> Toymakingdad built a caterpillar Automata and I just loved it so had to give it a try.
> I should add he gives a very complete how to with many problem solving ideas, because there can be problems getting everything just so.
> I never knew caterpillars could be so much trouble.
> It's just made out of scraps I had laying around the shop.
> Pine and more pine. LOL
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> I had to add it to face book for the video to work.
> It hasn't been waxed up yet but seems to work pretty well.
> Now lets see if we can talk him in to walking a little bit.


This is again a nice Bruce one. Well done friend.


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## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Playing with a Caterpillar*
> 
> Lets see if we can talk him in to walking a little bit.
> 
> Toymakingdad built a caterpillar Automata and I just loved it so had to give it a try.
> I should add he gives a very complete how to with many problem solving ideas, because there can be problems getting everything just so.
> I never knew caterpillars could be so much trouble.
> It's just made out of scraps I had laying around the shop.
> Pine and more pine. LOL
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> I had to add it to face book for the video to work.
> It hasn't been waxed up yet but seems to work pretty well.
> Now lets see if we can talk him in to walking a little bit.


Nice job Bud. I like the "furry" version !

And I'll bet that using a drill to power him, he runs like there's no tomorrow !


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## htl

htl said:


> *Playing with a Caterpillar*
> 
> Lets see if we can talk him in to walking a little bit.
> 
> Toymakingdad built a caterpillar Automata and I just loved it so had to give it a try.
> I should add he gives a very complete how to with many problem solving ideas, because there can be problems getting everything just so.
> I never knew caterpillars could be so much trouble.
> It's just made out of scraps I had laying around the shop.
> Pine and more pine. LOL
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> I had to add it to face book for the video to work.
> It hasn't been waxed up yet but seems to work pretty well.
> Now lets see if we can talk him in to walking a little bit.


I just put the drill on there to loosen every thing up but it's fun to see how fast he can go before he starts messing up.

Not really into the paint thing but may put a light danish on it and then the dark to get some color to him.
This was really just a prof of concept to me, wanting to get my feet wet in animations.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Playing with a Caterpillar*
> 
> Lets see if we can talk him in to walking a little bit.
> 
> Toymakingdad built a caterpillar Automata and I just loved it so had to give it a try.
> I should add he gives a very complete how to with many problem solving ideas, because there can be problems getting everything just so.
> I never knew caterpillars could be so much trouble.
> It's just made out of scraps I had laying around the shop.
> Pine and more pine. LOL
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> I had to add it to face book for the video to work.
> It hasn't been waxed up yet but seems to work pretty well.
> Now lets see if we can talk him in to walking a little bit.





> ....,
> wanting to get my feet *wet* in *animations*.
> 
> - htl


Hey *#4*, I really don't know how I came across this idea (probably somewhere amongst all that copious reading I do… in my sleep), however. if you are contemplating *animations*, this could give you a good *soaking*...

These are the components that can be used to create most types of toy *machinations*...









Just in case you want to follow your nose, sniff this out. It's a SketchUp model of the components… can be used to print out cutting templates.

How to incorporate them into a build?... Sorry but you'll have to learn to suck your own eggs!


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## htl

htl said:


> *Playing with a Caterpillar*
> 
> Lets see if we can talk him in to walking a little bit.
> 
> Toymakingdad built a caterpillar Automata and I just loved it so had to give it a try.
> I should add he gives a very complete how to with many problem solving ideas, because there can be problems getting everything just so.
> I never knew caterpillars could be so much trouble.
> It's just made out of scraps I had laying around the shop.
> Pine and more pine. LOL
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> I had to add it to face book for the video to work.
> It hasn't been waxed up yet but seems to work pretty well.
> Now lets see if we can talk him in to walking a little bit.


Read! Read!!!
You won't but you want me to!!!
Well I just ain't going to do it!!!!!!!!!
*Ducky *who's side are you on???
LOL!!!!!!!


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Playing with a Caterpillar*
> 
> Lets see if we can talk him in to walking a little bit.
> 
> Toymakingdad built a caterpillar Automata and I just loved it so had to give it a try.
> I should add he gives a very complete how to with many problem solving ideas, because there can be problems getting everything just so.
> I never knew caterpillars could be so much trouble.
> It's just made out of scraps I had laying around the shop.
> Pine and more pine. LOL
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> It hasn't been waxed up yet but seems to work pretty well.
> Now lets see if we can talk him in to walking a little bit.


Hey *#4*, It's probably not as much as I hate reading… but I write so much that when I read it to correct the spelling and grammar, I exhaust *my* reading quota.

By the way, I must have deleted the above link when I went to reclaim some DropBox real estate… so that'll conserve some of your reading ritual.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Playing with a Caterpillar*
> 
> Lets see if we can talk him in to walking a little bit.
> 
> Toymakingdad built a caterpillar Automata and I just loved it so had to give it a try.
> I should add he gives a very complete how to with many problem solving ideas, because there can be problems getting everything just so.
> I never knew caterpillars could be so much trouble.
> It's just made out of scraps I had laying around the shop.
> Pine and more pine. LOL
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> It hasn't been waxed up yet but seems to work pretty well.
> Now lets see if we can talk him in to walking a little bit.


I may have down loaded it when you first put it up but where it's at now ????
Thanks Ducky!!!


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## htl

*Delivery truck Movie LOL*










*And to add to your enjoyment a short short movie!!!*


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Delivery truck Movie LOL*
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> *And to add to your enjoyment a short short movie!!!*


A Movie Producer in the making, look out Hollywood there's a new kid on the block….


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Delivery truck Movie LOL*
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> *And to add to your enjoyment a short short movie!!!*


hey this movie stinks ….weres the topless girl loading the racer …...LOL :<))


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## NormG

htl said:


> *Delivery truck Movie LOL*
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> *And to add to your enjoyment a short short movie!!!*


That is a wonderful truck, someone is going to be very happy


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Delivery truck Movie LOL*
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> *And to add to your enjoyment a short short movie!!!*


Hey *#4*, how'd you fit inside the racer to operate the pedals?


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Delivery truck Movie LOL*
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> *And to add to your enjoyment a short short movie!!!*


Neat toys. The fishing line trick works again.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Delivery truck Movie LOL*
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> *And to add to your enjoyment a short short movie!!!*


What fishing line?
It may stink but there ain't no fish in my movie! LOL


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## JoeinGa

htl said:


> *Delivery truck Movie LOL*
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> *And to add to your enjoyment a short short movie!!!*


And it's a "stop action" short at that! This guy would be so pleased ! 
.
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## CFrye

htl said:


> *Delivery truck Movie LOL*
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The next Frank Howarth!


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## robscastle

htl said:


> *Delivery truck Movie LOL*
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> *And to add to your enjoyment a short short movie!!!*


She is in the racer I saw her!.. true…look again
That little green fellow is Gumby and from memory he has been around for a while
Hasent animation come a long way since Gumby.

Good job "Spielberg"


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## htl

*Wood burning train #2*

Well I got some insulation in the ceiling so till I get more $$$ for insulation for the walls will be getting back to building models.
Got the plans for the wood burner Toys and Joys plans so will be playing with this for a little while.
I build the coal burner a while back but shrunk it down but this time going to try a full size train so may put in a few more details, we'll see how that goes. :-]

Since moving to a new shop having to find the tools I need and figure out the best why to get er done so Not taking as many picture, but if any one has a need to know how I got something done just ask but please check out my other train blog for how the boiler and wheels are made.
I also built a more modern train here.

Cut out the base and glued it up and while it was drying started on the boiler.








Thankfully I had some 1/4" all thread left over from the last train build.

Using poplar for the main wood and cherry for the rest if I can scrounge up some more.










Then the floor.









Roof.









Then the cabin sides and front.









I don't know but it looks top heavy to me but as I said it is bigger than most of my other builds.


----------



## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Wood burning train #2*
> 
> Well I got some insulation in the ceiling so till I get more $$$ for insulation for the walls will be getting back to building models.
> Got the plans for the wood burner Toys and Joys plans so will be playing with this for a little while.
> I build the coal burner a while back but shrunk it down but this time going to try a full size train so may put in a few more details, we'll see how that goes. :-]
> 
> Since moving to a new shop having to find the tools I need and figure out the best why to get er done so Not taking as many picture, but if any one has a need to know how I got something done just ask but please check out my other train blog for how the boiler and wheels are made.
> I also built a more modern train here.
> 
> Cut out the base and glued it up and while it was drying started on the boiler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thankfully I had some 1/4" all thread left over from the last train build.
> 
> Using poplar for the main wood and cherry for the rest if I can scrounge up some more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the cabin sides and front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know but it looks top heavy to me but as I said it is bigger than most of my other builds.


It looks fine to me.

Build it the way YOU like it.

Plans are a place to start FROM! They are not a legal requirement to follow blindly.

Deviations from the plans are what makes them your OWN BUILD!


----------



## bruce317

htl said:


> *Wood burning train #2*
> 
> Well I got some insulation in the ceiling so till I get more $$$ for insulation for the walls will be getting back to building models.
> Got the plans for the wood burner Toys and Joys plans so will be playing with this for a little while.
> I build the coal burner a while back but shrunk it down but this time going to try a full size train so may put in a few more details, we'll see how that goes. :-]
> 
> Since moving to a new shop having to find the tools I need and figure out the best why to get er done so Not taking as many picture, but if any one has a need to know how I got something done just ask but please check out my other train blog for how the boiler and wheels are made.
> I also built a more modern train here.
> 
> Cut out the base and glued it up and while it was drying started on the boiler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thankfully I had some 1/4" all thread left over from the last train build.
> 
> Using poplar for the main wood and cherry for the rest if I can scrounge up some more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the cabin sides and front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know but it looks top heavy to me but as I said it is bigger than most of my other builds.


Nice! "She'll be coming around the mountain!"


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Wood burning train #2*
> 
> Well I got some insulation in the ceiling so till I get more $$$ for insulation for the walls will be getting back to building models.
> Got the plans for the wood burner Toys and Joys plans so will be playing with this for a little while.
> I build the coal burner a while back but shrunk it down but this time going to try a full size train so may put in a few more details, we'll see how that goes. :-]
> 
> Since moving to a new shop having to find the tools I need and figure out the best why to get er done so Not taking as many picture, but if any one has a need to know how I got something done just ask but please check out my other train blog for how the boiler and wheels are made.
> I also built a more modern train here.
> 
> Cut out the base and glued it up and while it was drying started on the boiler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thankfully I had some 1/4" all thread left over from the last train build.
> 
> Using poplar for the main wood and cherry for the rest if I can scrounge up some more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the cabin sides and front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know but it looks top heavy to me but as I said it is bigger than most of my other builds.


I love to see you back at it Bruce ….Welcome back :<))


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Wood burning train #2*
> 
> Well I got some insulation in the ceiling so till I get more $$$ for insulation for the walls will be getting back to building models.
> Got the plans for the wood burner Toys and Joys plans so will be playing with this for a little while.
> I build the coal burner a while back but shrunk it down but this time going to try a full size train so may put in a few more details, we'll see how that goes. :-]
> 
> Since moving to a new shop having to find the tools I need and figure out the best why to get er done so Not taking as many picture, but if any one has a need to know how I got something done just ask but please check out my other train blog for how the boiler and wheels are made.
> I also built a more modern train here.
> 
> Cut out the base and glued it up and while it was drying started on the boiler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thankfully I had some 1/4" all thread left over from the last train build.
> 
> Using poplar for the main wood and cherry for the rest if I can scrounge up some more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the cabin sides and front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know but it looks top heavy to me but as I said it is bigger than most of my other builds.


I've got a ticket for this train ride and looking forward to seeing it come alive, thank you Bruce.


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Wood burning train #2*
> 
> Well I got some insulation in the ceiling so till I get more $$$ for insulation for the walls will be getting back to building models.
> Got the plans for the wood burner Toys and Joys plans so will be playing with this for a little while.
> I build the coal burner a while back but shrunk it down but this time going to try a full size train so may put in a few more details, we'll see how that goes. :-]
> 
> Since moving to a new shop having to find the tools I need and figure out the best why to get er done so Not taking as many picture, but if any one has a need to know how I got something done just ask but please check out my other train blog for how the boiler and wheels are made.
> I also built a more modern train here.
> 
> Cut out the base and glued it up and while it was drying started on the boiler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thankfully I had some 1/4" all thread left over from the last train build.
> 
> Using poplar for the main wood and cherry for the rest if I can scrounge up some more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the cabin sides and front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know but it looks top heavy to me but as I said it is bigger than most of my other builds.


*Looking good.*


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Wood burning train #2*
> 
> Well I got some insulation in the ceiling so till I get more $$$ for insulation for the walls will be getting back to building models.
> Got the plans for the wood burner Toys and Joys plans so will be playing with this for a little while.
> I build the coal burner a while back but shrunk it down but this time going to try a full size train so may put in a few more details, we'll see how that goes. :-]
> 
> Since moving to a new shop having to find the tools I need and figure out the best why to get er done so Not taking as many picture, but if any one has a need to know how I got something done just ask but please check out my other train blog for how the boiler and wheels are made.
> I also built a more modern train here.
> 
> Cut out the base and glued it up and while it was drying started on the boiler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thankfully I had some 1/4" all thread left over from the last train build.
> 
> Using poplar for the main wood and cherry for the rest if I can scrounge up some more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the cabin sides and front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know but it looks top heavy to me but as I said it is bigger than most of my other builds.


Welcome back *#4*. Good to see you haven't forgotten how to focus a camera in your absence.

Now that you seem to be settled in your new residence… I expect to see more *loco* pictures.

*PS.* Miss the pinkie…


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Wood burning train #2*
> 
> Well I got some insulation in the ceiling so till I get more $$$ for insulation for the walls will be getting back to building models.
> Got the plans for the wood burner Toys and Joys plans so will be playing with this for a little while.
> I build the coal burner a while back but shrunk it down but this time going to try a full size train so may put in a few more details, we'll see how that goes. :-]
> 
> Since moving to a new shop having to find the tools I need and figure out the best why to get er done so Not taking as many picture, but if any one has a need to know how I got something done just ask but please check out my other train blog for how the boiler and wheels are made.
> I also built a more modern train here.
> 
> Cut out the base and glued it up and while it was drying started on the boiler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thankfully I had some 1/4" all thread left over from the last train build.
> 
> Using poplar for the main wood and cherry for the rest if I can scrounge up some more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the cabin sides and front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know but it looks top heavy to me but as I said it is bigger than most of my other builds.


My pinkie is just fine got all ten. :-]


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Wood burning train #2*
> 
> Well I got some insulation in the ceiling so till I get more $$$ for insulation for the walls will be getting back to building models.
> Got the plans for the wood burner Toys and Joys plans so will be playing with this for a little while.
> I build the coal burner a while back but shrunk it down but this time going to try a full size train so may put in a few more details, we'll see how that goes. :-]
> 
> Since moving to a new shop having to find the tools I need and figure out the best why to get er done so Not taking as many picture, but if any one has a need to know how I got something done just ask but please check out my other train blog for how the boiler and wheels are made.
> I also built a more modern train here.
> 
> Cut out the base and glued it up and while it was drying started on the boiler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thankfully I had some 1/4" all thread left over from the last train build.
> 
> Using poplar for the main wood and cherry for the rest if I can scrounge up some more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the cabin sides and front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know but it looks top heavy to me but as I said it is bigger than most of my other builds.





> My pinkie is just fine got all ten. :-]
> 
> - htl


Can barely handle one… 10 is just kinda freaky…


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Wood burning train #2*
> 
> Well I got some insulation in the ceiling so till I get more $$$ for insulation for the walls will be getting back to building models.
> Got the plans for the wood burner Toys and Joys plans so will be playing with this for a little while.
> I build the coal burner a while back but shrunk it down but this time going to try a full size train so may put in a few more details, we'll see how that goes. :-]
> 
> Since moving to a new shop having to find the tools I need and figure out the best why to get er done so Not taking as many picture, but if any one has a need to know how I got something done just ask but please check out my other train blog for how the boiler and wheels are made.
> I also built a more modern train here.
> 
> Cut out the base and glued it up and while it was drying started on the boiler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thankfully I had some 1/4" all thread left over from the last train build.
> 
> Using poplar for the main wood and cherry for the rest if I can scrounge up some more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the cabin sides and front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know but it looks top heavy to me but as I said it is bigger than most of my other builds.


When we moved old pinky went by-by. LOL

*Ducky need your help.*
Would you still have the plans you made up for the coal train boiler???
Going larger so can add some more details to it, and yes the spittoon would work nicely here. LOL


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Wood burning train #2*
> 
> Well I got some insulation in the ceiling so till I get more $$$ for insulation for the walls will be getting back to building models.
> Got the plans for the wood burner Toys and Joys plans so will be playing with this for a little while.
> I build the coal burner a while back but shrunk it down but this time going to try a full size train so may put in a few more details, we'll see how that goes. :-]
> 
> Since moving to a new shop having to find the tools I need and figure out the best why to get er done so Not taking as many picture, but if any one has a need to know how I got something done just ask but please check out my other train blog for how the boiler and wheels are made.
> I also built a more modern train here.
> 
> Cut out the base and glued it up and while it was drying started on the boiler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thankfully I had some 1/4" all thread left over from the last train build.
> 
> Using poplar for the main wood and cherry for the rest if I can scrounge up some more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the cabin sides and front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know but it looks top heavy to me but as I said it is bigger than most of my other builds.





> When we moved old pinky went by-by. LOL
> 
> - htl


I'm gonna miss him! His absence will take the colour out of your blogs….

Maybe a sly cameo photo wouldn't go astray…

If you run SU 2017 here is a link to the "*loco explosion*" (without plans).


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Wood burning train #2*
> 
> Well I got some insulation in the ceiling so till I get more $$$ for insulation for the walls will be getting back to building models.
> Got the plans for the wood burner Toys and Joys plans so will be playing with this for a little while.
> I build the coal burner a while back but shrunk it down but this time going to try a full size train so may put in a few more details, we'll see how that goes. :-]
> 
> Since moving to a new shop having to find the tools I need and figure out the best why to get er done so Not taking as many picture, but if any one has a need to know how I got something done just ask but please check out my other train blog for how the boiler and wheels are made.
> I also built a more modern train here.
> 
> Cut out the base and glued it up and while it was drying started on the boiler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thankfully I had some 1/4" all thread left over from the last train build.
> 
> Using poplar for the main wood and cherry for the rest if I can scrounge up some more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the cabin sides and front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know but it looks top heavy to me but as I said it is bigger than most of my other builds.


OOPS… wrong model above. Try this link (also w/o plans).


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Wood burning train #2*
> 
> Well I got some insulation in the ceiling so till I get more $$$ for insulation for the walls will be getting back to building models.
> Got the plans for the wood burner Toys and Joys plans so will be playing with this for a little while.
> I build the coal burner a while back but shrunk it down but this time going to try a full size train so may put in a few more details, we'll see how that goes. :-]
> 
> Since moving to a new shop having to find the tools I need and figure out the best why to get er done so Not taking as many picture, but if any one has a need to know how I got something done just ask but please check out my other train blog for how the boiler and wheels are made.
> I also built a more modern train here.
> 
> Cut out the base and glued it up and while it was drying started on the boiler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thankfully I had some 1/4" all thread left over from the last train build.
> 
> Using poplar for the main wood and cherry for the rest if I can scrounge up some more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the cabin sides and front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know but it looks top heavy to me but as I said it is bigger than most of my other builds.


Thanks Ducky just what I needed to help come up with something with levers and gears and a spittoon. lol
I kept looking for a picture had forgot you had it as part of the plans.


----------



## Dee1

htl said:


> *Wood burning train #2*
> 
> Well I got some insulation in the ceiling so till I get more $$$ for insulation for the walls will be getting back to building models.
> Got the plans for the wood burner Toys and Joys plans so will be playing with this for a little while.
> I build the coal burner a while back but shrunk it down but this time going to try a full size train so may put in a few more details, we'll see how that goes. :-]
> 
> Since moving to a new shop having to find the tools I need and figure out the best why to get er done so Not taking as many picture, but if any one has a need to know how I got something done just ask but please check out my other train blog for how the boiler and wheels are made.
> I also built a more modern train here.
> 
> Cut out the base and glued it up and while it was drying started on the boiler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thankfully I had some 1/4" all thread left over from the last train build.
> 
> Using poplar for the main wood and cherry for the rest if I can scrounge up some more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the cabin sides and front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know but it looks top heavy to me but as I said it is bigger than most of my other builds.


Great to see you back at it again, nobody builds as fast as you do with such great results 
Dee1


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Wood burning train #2*
> 
> Well I got some insulation in the ceiling so till I get more $$$ for insulation for the walls will be getting back to building models.
> Got the plans for the wood burner Toys and Joys plans so will be playing with this for a little while.
> I build the coal burner a while back but shrunk it down but this time going to try a full size train so may put in a few more details, we'll see how that goes. :-]
> 
> Since moving to a new shop having to find the tools I need and figure out the best why to get er done so Not taking as many picture, but if any one has a need to know how I got something done just ask but please check out my other train blog for how the boiler and wheels are made.
> I also built a more modern train here.
> 
> Cut out the base and glued it up and while it was drying started on the boiler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thankfully I had some 1/4" all thread left over from the last train build.
> 
> Using poplar for the main wood and cherry for the rest if I can scrounge up some more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the cabin sides and front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know but it looks top heavy to me but as I said it is bigger than most of my other builds.


Dee1 I feel like I've been brought to a crawl with this new shop.
I throw a bunch a stuff away to move just didn't want to pack it and then unload but now all those things have come back to kick me.
I thought I could get along with out a desk or [work station] but find that now I pile things up every where where I used to keep the mess at my desk or [work table].
I need to go to Harbor Freight and load up on supplies.


----------



## htl

*Triming the base & filling the cab #3*

Yesterday I got most of the base and cab cut out and shaped now I'll be triming it with cherry and building up the gadgets and things for the cab.

I looked and looked for My copy of Duckys boiler room but had to get him to show me where it was at.

Here's one I found.









Here's what I made for last time.









And here's what I worked out for this build.
I already had the gauges put on before I stopped for lunch and found that Ducky was good enough to get what I needed.
Had a ball figuring out the levers.









Now back to the start of the day and a couple a how to.

They called for a slant under the roof to make it look like the whole thing is curved underneath.




























Had a 2×4 with an angle on it so used it to guide the sanding.
Just sand to the line and it's done.



























Next trimming out all the base and cab edges.
First I cut up some cherry for trim.
I don't try for any fancy angle cuts just start at the back and work my way forward.
I just put some trim in the hole and mark with a sharpened small screw driver.








I have a small electric miter saw but it just seems to work better old school for this.








Then I clamp a guide to my sander to make those really fine adjustments.



























I used my band saw to cut out the windows so will be putting some trim at the top to hide where I entered the cut. [my scroll saw died} :-[
Then I used a file to square up the holes for trimming.









As I glue up the parts, I sand them flush,most times I will glue up more than on board at a time to speed things up, but have to be careful or you can sand parts the wrong way and knock them off.
[ I use super glue for this, glue it up hold the parts for a count of 120 and sand]




































I did the gauges first, if I would have had Ducky's plans I may have done it a tad different but this will work.









The walls are glued together but not to the base, just need to get the feel for the space.



























Turned out pretty close to Duckys plans, thanks Ducky for you continuing help.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Triming the base & filling the cab #3*
> 
> Yesterday I got most of the base and cab cut out and shaped now I'll be triming it with cherry and building up the gadgets and things for the cab.
> 
> I looked and looked for My copy of Duckys boiler room but had to get him to show me where it was at.
> 
> Here's one I found.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what I made for last time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's what I worked out for this build.
> I already had the gauges put on before I stopped for lunch and found that Ducky was good enough to get what I needed.
> Had a ball figuring out the levers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the start of the day and a couple a how to.
> 
> They called for a slant under the roof to make it look like the whole thing is curved underneath.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had a 2×4 with an angle on it so used it to guide the sanding.
> Just sand to the line and it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next trimming out all the base and cab edges.
> First I cut up some cherry for trim.
> I don't try for any fancy angle cuts just start at the back and work my way forward.
> I just put some trim in the hole and mark with a sharpened small screw driver.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a small electric miter saw but it just seems to work better old school for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I clamp a guide to my sander to make those really fine adjustments.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used my band saw to cut out the windows so will be putting some trim at the top to hide where I entered the cut. [my scroll saw died} :-[
> Then I used a file to square up the holes for trimming.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I glue up the parts, I sand them flush,most times I will glue up more than on board at a time to speed things up, but have to be careful or you can sand parts the wrong way and knock them off.
> [ I use super glue for this, glue it up hold the parts for a count of 120 and sand]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did the gauges first, if I would have had Ducky's plans I may have done it a tad different but this will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The walls are glued together but not to the base, just need to get the feel for the space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned out pretty close to Duckys plans, thanks Ducky for you continuing help.


Some very nice detailing there Bruce…


----------



## Redoak49

htl said:


> *Triming the base & filling the cab #3*
> 
> Yesterday I got most of the base and cab cut out and shaped now I'll be triming it with cherry and building up the gadgets and things for the cab.
> 
> I looked and looked for My copy of Duckys boiler room but had to get him to show me where it was at.
> 
> Here's one I found.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what I made for last time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's what I worked out for this build.
> I already had the gauges put on before I stopped for lunch and found that Ducky was good enough to get what I needed.
> Had a ball figuring out the levers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the start of the day and a couple a how to.
> 
> They called for a slant under the roof to make it look like the whole thing is curved underneath.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had a 2×4 with an angle on it so used it to guide the sanding.
> Just sand to the line and it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next trimming out all the base and cab edges.
> First I cut up some cherry for trim.
> I don't try for any fancy angle cuts just start at the back and work my way forward.
> I just put some trim in the hole and mark with a sharpened small screw driver.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a small electric miter saw but it just seems to work better old school for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I clamp a guide to my sander to make those really fine adjustments.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used my band saw to cut out the windows so will be putting some trim at the top to hide where I entered the cut. [my scroll saw died} :-[
> Then I used a file to square up the holes for trimming.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I glue up the parts, I sand them flush,most times I will glue up more than on board at a time to speed things up, but have to be careful or you can sand parts the wrong way and knock them off.
> [ I use super glue for this, glue it up hold the parts for a count of 120 and sand]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did the gauges first, if I would have had Ducky's plans I may have done it a tad different but this will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The walls are glued together but not to the base, just need to get the feel for the space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned out pretty close to Duckys plans, thanks Ducky for you continuing help.


Nicely done!

I really appreciate people who take the time to show how they make the small details.


----------



## bruce317

htl said:


> *Triming the base & filling the cab #3*
> 
> Yesterday I got most of the base and cab cut out and shaped now I'll be triming it with cherry and building up the gadgets and things for the cab.
> 
> I looked and looked for My copy of Duckys boiler room but had to get him to show me where it was at.
> 
> Here's one I found.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what I made for last time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's what I worked out for this build.
> I already had the gauges put on before I stopped for lunch and found that Ducky was good enough to get what I needed.
> Had a ball figuring out the levers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the start of the day and a couple a how to.
> 
> They called for a slant under the roof to make it look like the whole thing is curved underneath.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had a 2×4 with an angle on it so used it to guide the sanding.
> Just sand to the line and it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next trimming out all the base and cab edges.
> First I cut up some cherry for trim.
> I don't try for any fancy angle cuts just start at the back and work my way forward.
> I just put some trim in the hole and mark with a sharpened small screw driver.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a small electric miter saw but it just seems to work better old school for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I clamp a guide to my sander to make those really fine adjustments.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used my band saw to cut out the windows so will be putting some trim at the top to hide where I entered the cut. [my scroll saw died} :-[
> Then I used a file to square up the holes for trimming.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I glue up the parts, I sand them flush,most times I will glue up more than on board at a time to speed things up, but have to be careful or you can sand parts the wrong way and knock them off.
> [ I use super glue for this, glue it up hold the parts for a count of 120 and sand]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did the gauges first, if I would have had Ducky's plans I may have done it a tad different but this will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The walls are glued together but not to the base, just need to get the feel for the space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned out pretty close to Duckys plans, thanks Ducky for you continuing help.


looking great! Nice touch having the fire box doors open.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Triming the base & filling the cab #3*
> 
> Yesterday I got most of the base and cab cut out and shaped now I'll be triming it with cherry and building up the gadgets and things for the cab.
> 
> I looked and looked for My copy of Duckys boiler room but had to get him to show me where it was at.
> 
> Here's one I found.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what I made for last time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's what I worked out for this build.
> I already had the gauges put on before I stopped for lunch and found that Ducky was good enough to get what I needed.
> Had a ball figuring out the levers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the start of the day and a couple a how to.
> 
> They called for a slant under the roof to make it look like the whole thing is curved underneath.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had a 2×4 with an angle on it so used it to guide the sanding.
> Just sand to the line and it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next trimming out all the base and cab edges.
> First I cut up some cherry for trim.
> I don't try for any fancy angle cuts just start at the back and work my way forward.
> I just put some trim in the hole and mark with a sharpened small screw driver.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a small electric miter saw but it just seems to work better old school for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I clamp a guide to my sander to make those really fine adjustments.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used my band saw to cut out the windows so will be putting some trim at the top to hide where I entered the cut. [my scroll saw died} :-[
> Then I used a file to square up the holes for trimming.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I glue up the parts, I sand them flush,most times I will glue up more than on board at a time to speed things up, but have to be careful or you can sand parts the wrong way and knock them off.
> [ I use super glue for this, glue it up hold the parts for a count of 120 and sand]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did the gauges first, if I would have had Ducky's plans I may have done it a tad different but this will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The walls are glued together but not to the base, just need to get the feel for the space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned out pretty close to Duckys plans, thanks Ducky for you continuing help.





> looking great! Nice touch having the fire box doors open.
> 
> - bruce317


It's funny but for that door I had this head light [that's what it was] and wanted to cut it in half for the open door look and looked at my miter saw nope, not safe then the band saw, I don't think so, then it hit me do it old school and used my little miter box that you see in the trim pictures.
Ten strokes and it was in half ,and with that thin blade there wasn't much cut off.

Am I going back to hand tools, I hope not but their the winner for safety.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Triming the base & filling the cab #3*
> 
> Yesterday I got most of the base and cab cut out and shaped now I'll be triming it with cherry and building up the gadgets and things for the cab.
> 
> I looked and looked for My copy of Duckys boiler room but had to get him to show me where it was at.
> 
> Here's one I found.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what I made for last time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's what I worked out for this build.
> I already had the gauges put on before I stopped for lunch and found that Ducky was good enough to get what I needed.
> Had a ball figuring out the levers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the start of the day and a couple a how to.
> 
> They called for a slant under the roof to make it look like the whole thing is curved underneath.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had a 2×4 with an angle on it so used it to guide the sanding.
> Just sand to the line and it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next trimming out all the base and cab edges.
> First I cut up some cherry for trim.
> I don't try for any fancy angle cuts just start at the back and work my way forward.
> I just put some trim in the hole and mark with a sharpened small screw driver.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a small electric miter saw but it just seems to work better old school for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I clamp a guide to my sander to make those really fine adjustments.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used my band saw to cut out the windows so will be putting some trim at the top to hide where I entered the cut. [my scroll saw died} :-[
> Then I used a file to square up the holes for trimming.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I glue up the parts, I sand them flush,most times I will glue up more than on board at a time to speed things up, but have to be careful or you can sand parts the wrong way and knock them off.
> [ I use super glue for this, glue it up hold the parts for a count of 120 and sand]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did the gauges first, if I would have had Ducky's plans I may have done it a tad different but this will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The walls are glued together but not to the base, just need to get the feel for the space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned out pretty close to Duckys plans, thanks Ducky for you continuing help.


Great job on the cabin detail… the use of the light is very innovative.. The trims around the window and perimeters are impressive as well.


> ... old school and used my little miter box that you see in the trim pictures…
> 
> ... Am I going back to hand tools…
> 
> - htl


There is noting wrong with a Japsaw and a trusty mitre box… one of my favourite fall back pieces of equipment.








As you may see, it has taken a "hammering" over the past 6 months.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Triming the base & filling the cab #3*
> 
> Yesterday I got most of the base and cab cut out and shaped now I'll be triming it with cherry and building up the gadgets and things for the cab.
> 
> I looked and looked for My copy of Duckys boiler room but had to get him to show me where it was at.
> 
> Here's one I found.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what I made for last time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's what I worked out for this build.
> I already had the gauges put on before I stopped for lunch and found that Ducky was good enough to get what I needed.
> Had a ball figuring out the levers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the start of the day and a couple a how to.
> 
> They called for a slant under the roof to make it look like the whole thing is curved underneath.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had a 2×4 with an angle on it so used it to guide the sanding.
> Just sand to the line and it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next trimming out all the base and cab edges.
> First I cut up some cherry for trim.
> I don't try for any fancy angle cuts just start at the back and work my way forward.
> I just put some trim in the hole and mark with a sharpened small screw driver.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a small electric miter saw but it just seems to work better old school for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I clamp a guide to my sander to make those really fine adjustments.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used my band saw to cut out the windows so will be putting some trim at the top to hide where I entered the cut. [my scroll saw died} :-[
> Then I used a file to square up the holes for trimming.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I glue up the parts, I sand them flush,most times I will glue up more than on board at a time to speed things up, but have to be careful or you can sand parts the wrong way and knock them off.
> [ I use super glue for this, glue it up hold the parts for a count of 120 and sand]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did the gauges first, if I would have had Ducky's plans I may have done it a tad different but this will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The walls are glued together but not to the base, just need to get the feel for the space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned out pretty close to Duckys plans, thanks Ducky for you continuing help.


Nice jig Ducky, I was just thinking mine was getting old and needs replacing and a shop built would be heavy duty. LOL


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Triming the base & filling the cab #3*
> 
> Yesterday I got most of the base and cab cut out and shaped now I'll be triming it with cherry and building up the gadgets and things for the cab.
> 
> I looked and looked for My copy of Duckys boiler room but had to get him to show me where it was at.
> 
> Here's one I found.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what I made for last time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's what I worked out for this build.
> I already had the gauges put on before I stopped for lunch and found that Ducky was good enough to get what I needed.
> Had a ball figuring out the levers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the start of the day and a couple a how to.
> 
> They called for a slant under the roof to make it look like the whole thing is curved underneath.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had a 2×4 with an angle on it so used it to guide the sanding.
> Just sand to the line and it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next trimming out all the base and cab edges.
> First I cut up some cherry for trim.
> I don't try for any fancy angle cuts just start at the back and work my way forward.
> I just put some trim in the hole and mark with a sharpened small screw driver.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a small electric miter saw but it just seems to work better old school for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I clamp a guide to my sander to make those really fine adjustments.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used my band saw to cut out the windows so will be putting some trim at the top to hide where I entered the cut. [my scroll saw died} :-[
> Then I used a file to square up the holes for trimming.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I glue up the parts, I sand them flush,most times I will glue up more than on board at a time to speed things up, but have to be careful or you can sand parts the wrong way and knock them off.
> [ I use super glue for this, glue it up hold the parts for a count of 120 and sand]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did the gauges first, if I would have had Ducky's plans I may have done it a tad different but this will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The walls are glued together but not to the base, just need to get the feel for the space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned out pretty close to Duckys plans, thanks Ducky for you continuing help.


Great blog my friend. I enjoyed looking to your building methode. Keep on going. Insulation can wait , or is it to warm/hot there?


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Triming the base & filling the cab #3*
> 
> Yesterday I got most of the base and cab cut out and shaped now I'll be triming it with cherry and building up the gadgets and things for the cab.
> 
> I looked and looked for My copy of Duckys boiler room but had to get him to show me where it was at.
> 
> Here's one I found.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what I made for last time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's what I worked out for this build.
> I already had the gauges put on before I stopped for lunch and found that Ducky was good enough to get what I needed.
> Had a ball figuring out the levers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the start of the day and a couple a how to.
> 
> They called for a slant under the roof to make it look like the whole thing is curved underneath.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had a 2×4 with an angle on it so used it to guide the sanding.
> Just sand to the line and it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next trimming out all the base and cab edges.
> First I cut up some cherry for trim.
> I don't try for any fancy angle cuts just start at the back and work my way forward.
> I just put some trim in the hole and mark with a sharpened small screw driver.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a small electric miter saw but it just seems to work better old school for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I clamp a guide to my sander to make those really fine adjustments.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used my band saw to cut out the windows so will be putting some trim at the top to hide where I entered the cut. [my scroll saw died} :-[
> Then I used a file to square up the holes for trimming.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I glue up the parts, I sand them flush,most times I will glue up more than on board at a time to speed things up, but have to be careful or you can sand parts the wrong way and knock them off.
> [ I use super glue for this, glue it up hold the parts for a count of 120 and sand]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did the gauges first, if I would have had Ducky's plans I may have done it a tad different but this will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The walls are glued together but not to the base, just need to get the feel for the space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned out pretty close to Duckys plans, thanks Ducky for you continuing help.


Dutchy was planning on insulating the walls today but fell getting in the house yesterday so will be working on the train today, it's been pretty cool and the insulation on the ceiling has really help my small air conditioner do it's job.
But some time next week will get the walls done.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Triming the base & filling the cab #3*
> 
> Yesterday I got most of the base and cab cut out and shaped now I'll be triming it with cherry and building up the gadgets and things for the cab.
> 
> I looked and looked for My copy of Duckys boiler room but had to get him to show me where it was at.
> 
> Here's one I found.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what I made for last time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's what I worked out for this build.
> I already had the gauges put on before I stopped for lunch and found that Ducky was good enough to get what I needed.
> Had a ball figuring out the levers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the start of the day and a couple a how to.
> 
> They called for a slant under the roof to make it look like the whole thing is curved underneath.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had a 2×4 with an angle on it so used it to guide the sanding.
> Just sand to the line and it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next trimming out all the base and cab edges.
> First I cut up some cherry for trim.
> I don't try for any fancy angle cuts just start at the back and work my way forward.
> I just put some trim in the hole and mark with a sharpened small screw driver.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a small electric miter saw but it just seems to work better old school for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I clamp a guide to my sander to make those really fine adjustments.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used my band saw to cut out the windows so will be putting some trim at the top to hide where I entered the cut. [my scroll saw died} :-[
> Then I used a file to square up the holes for trimming.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I glue up the parts, I sand them flush,most times I will glue up more than on board at a time to speed things up, but have to be careful or you can sand parts the wrong way and knock them off.
> [ I use super glue for this, glue it up hold the parts for a count of 120 and sand]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did the gauges first, if I would have had Ducky's plans I may have done it a tad different but this will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The walls are glued together but not to the base, just need to get the feel for the space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned out pretty close to Duckys plans, thanks Ducky for you continuing help.


YES much safer I too also have a very small miter box made from aluminum …only 1 problem with store bought only has straight cut and 45 ….love to see you back at it Bruce ….if ducky misses pinky so much ..I guess I could take a few pics with wife's pink panties on and send to him …that should clearly keep him quite for a bit :<))


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Triming the base & filling the cab #3*
> 
> Yesterday I got most of the base and cab cut out and shaped now I'll be triming it with cherry and building up the gadgets and things for the cab.
> 
> I looked and looked for My copy of Duckys boiler room but had to get him to show me where it was at.
> 
> Here's one I found.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what I made for last time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's what I worked out for this build.
> I already had the gauges put on before I stopped for lunch and found that Ducky was good enough to get what I needed.
> Had a ball figuring out the levers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back to the start of the day and a couple a how to.
> 
> They called for a slant under the roof to make it look like the whole thing is curved underneath.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had a 2×4 with an angle on it so used it to guide the sanding.
> Just sand to the line and it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next trimming out all the base and cab edges.
> First I cut up some cherry for trim.
> I don't try for any fancy angle cuts just start at the back and work my way forward.
> I just put some trim in the hole and mark with a sharpened small screw driver.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a small electric miter saw but it just seems to work better old school for this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I clamp a guide to my sander to make those really fine adjustments.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used my band saw to cut out the windows so will be putting some trim at the top to hide where I entered the cut. [my scroll saw died} :-[
> Then I used a file to square up the holes for trimming.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I glue up the parts, I sand them flush,most times I will glue up more than on board at a time to speed things up, but have to be careful or you can sand parts the wrong way and knock them off.
> [ I use super glue for this, glue it up hold the parts for a count of 120 and sand]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did the gauges first, if I would have had Ducky's plans I may have done it a tad different but this will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The walls are glued together but not to the base, just need to get the feel for the space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned out pretty close to Duckys plans, thanks Ducky for you continuing help.





> ...I could take a few pics with wife s pink panties on ….
> 
> - GR8HUNTER


Thx for the offer GR8, however, I already have enough pictures of me in my missus's pink panties… and they're frilly to boot.


----------



## htl

*Smoke stack #4*

Worked on the dodad's that go on top of the boiler [smoke stack].
Here's a better look at my sanding drum jig.
I scrounged up a router fence and it has some great adjustments for easing up on the sander.
I should add that this is set up for the Shop Smith but would work on other tools too.










I put slats on the bottom so it can move side ways when I loosen the bolt but can't move back.
By being able to move side ways, when making wheels you use up just a small part of the disk by being able to move side ways you move to a new section of the sand paper.









These pictures show the part is on a dowel and stays put, the disk is moved to the part and there are adjustments to set the depth.
Now comes the best part because the jig is mounted to the router fence I can turn a nob and bring the work closer to the disk for super fine adjustment.













































Here I've added some angle to make the chimney.




































As you can see my sandpaper is shoot, need to hit HF and get some new ones.
I meant to show sanding the parts but got working and only took a after it's done shoot. sorry!!!


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Smoke stack #4*
> 
> Worked on the dodad's that go on top of the boiler [smoke stack].
> Here's a better look at my sanding drum jig.
> I scrounged up a router fence and it has some great adjustments for easing up on the sander.
> I should add that this is set up for the Shop Smith but would work on other tools too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put slats on the bottom so it can move side ways when I loosen the bolt but can't move back.
> By being able to move side ways, when making wheels you use up just a small part of the disk by being able to move side ways you move to a new section of the sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pictures show the part is on a dowel and stays put, the disk is moved to the part and there are adjustments to set the depth.
> Now comes the best part because the jig is mounted to the router fence I can turn a nob and bring the work closer to the disk for super fine adjustment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I've added some angle to make the chimney.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see my sandpaper is shoot, need to hit HF and get some new ones.
> I meant to show sanding the parts but got working and only took a after it's done shoot. sorry!!!


Nice, Thanks. Sandpaper!


----------



## Redoak49

htl said:


> *Smoke stack #4*
> 
> Worked on the dodad's that go on top of the boiler [smoke stack].
> Here's a better look at my sanding drum jig.
> I scrounged up a router fence and it has some great adjustments for easing up on the sander.
> I should add that this is set up for the Shop Smith but would work on other tools too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put slats on the bottom so it can move side ways when I loosen the bolt but can't move back.
> By being able to move side ways, when making wheels you use up just a small part of the disk by being able to move side ways you move to a new section of the sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pictures show the part is on a dowel and stays put, the disk is moved to the part and there are adjustments to set the depth.
> Now comes the best part because the jig is mounted to the router fence I can turn a nob and bring the work closer to the disk for super fine adjustment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I've added some angle to make the chimney.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see my sandpaper is shoot, need to hit HF and get some new ones.
> I meant to show sanding the parts but got working and only took a after it's done shoot. sorry!!!


Thanks for showing how you made the parts. A Shopsmith is such a versatile tool for making parts.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Smoke stack #4*
> 
> Worked on the dodad's that go on top of the boiler [smoke stack].
> Here's a better look at my sanding drum jig.
> I scrounged up a router fence and it has some great adjustments for easing up on the sander.
> I should add that this is set up for the Shop Smith but would work on other tools too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put slats on the bottom so it can move side ways when I loosen the bolt but can't move back.
> By being able to move side ways, when making wheels you use up just a small part of the disk by being able to move side ways you move to a new section of the sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pictures show the part is on a dowel and stays put, the disk is moved to the part and there are adjustments to set the depth.
> Now comes the best part because the jig is mounted to the router fence I can turn a nob and bring the work closer to the disk for super fine adjustment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I've added some angle to make the chimney.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see my sandpaper is shoot, need to hit HF and get some new ones.
> I meant to show sanding the parts but got working and only took a after it's done shoot. sorry!!!


Whoo-Whoo!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Smoke stack #4*
> 
> Worked on the dodad's that go on top of the boiler [smoke stack].
> Here's a better look at my sanding drum jig.
> I scrounged up a router fence and it has some great adjustments for easing up on the sander.
> I should add that this is set up for the Shop Smith but would work on other tools too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put slats on the bottom so it can move side ways when I loosen the bolt but can't move back.
> By being able to move side ways, when making wheels you use up just a small part of the disk by being able to move side ways you move to a new section of the sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pictures show the part is on a dowel and stays put, the disk is moved to the part and there are adjustments to set the depth.
> Now comes the best part because the jig is mounted to the router fence I can turn a nob and bring the work closer to the disk for super fine adjustment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I've added some angle to make the chimney.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see my sandpaper is shoot, need to hit HF and get some new ones.
> I meant to show sanding the parts but got working and only took a after it's done shoot. sorry!!!





> ... I scrounged up a router fence and it has some great adjustments for easing up on the sander…
> 
> - htl


Hmm… Must look into this. I think I got something like that in a kit that I don't use… I find the 2 way vice I adapted is a tad too cumbersome for small pieces… or maybe I'm just too lazy… no… too cumbersome!



> Nice, Thanks. *Sandpaper*!
> 
> - Dutchy


I think a *#4 Dutchy* must keep the sandpaper trade in business.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Smoke stack #4*
> 
> Worked on the dodad's that go on top of the boiler [smoke stack].
> Here's a better look at my sanding drum jig.
> I scrounged up a router fence and it has some great adjustments for easing up on the sander.
> I should add that this is set up for the Shop Smith but would work on other tools too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put slats on the bottom so it can move side ways when I loosen the bolt but can't move back.
> By being able to move side ways, when making wheels you use up just a small part of the disk by being able to move side ways you move to a new section of the sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pictures show the part is on a dowel and stays put, the disk is moved to the part and there are adjustments to set the depth.
> Now comes the best part because the jig is mounted to the router fence I can turn a nob and bring the work closer to the disk for super fine adjustment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I've added some angle to make the chimney.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see my sandpaper is shoot, need to hit HF and get some new ones.
> I meant to show sanding the parts but got working and only took a after it's done shoot. sorry!!!


"Hmm… Must look into this. I think I got something like that in a kit that I don't use… I find the 2 way vice I adapted is a tad too cumbersome for small pieces… or maybe I'm just too lazy… no… too cumbersome!"

Ducky the jig works great for sneaking up and the mark, the wood doesn't know what hit it. ;-]


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Smoke stack #4*
> 
> Worked on the dodad's that go on top of the boiler [smoke stack].
> Here's a better look at my sanding drum jig.
> I scrounged up a router fence and it has some great adjustments for easing up on the sander.
> I should add that this is set up for the Shop Smith but would work on other tools too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put slats on the bottom so it can move side ways when I loosen the bolt but can't move back.
> By being able to move side ways, when making wheels you use up just a small part of the disk by being able to move side ways you move to a new section of the sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pictures show the part is on a dowel and stays put, the disk is moved to the part and there are adjustments to set the depth.
> Now comes the best part because the jig is mounted to the router fence I can turn a nob and bring the work closer to the disk for super fine adjustment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Here I've added some angle to make the chimney.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see my sandpaper is shoot, need to hit HF and get some new ones.
> I meant to show sanding the parts but got working and only took a after it's done shoot. sorry!!!


Ducky the jig works great for *sneaking up on the mark, *the wood doesn't know what hit it. ;-]

*I need to slow down and check my wording much more better!!!!!!!!
*


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Smoke stack #4*
> 
> Worked on the dodad's that go on top of the boiler [smoke stack].
> Here's a better look at my sanding drum jig.
> I scrounged up a router fence and it has some great adjustments for easing up on the sander.
> I should add that this is set up for the Shop Smith but would work on other tools too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put slats on the bottom so it can move side ways when I loosen the bolt but can't move back.
> By being able to move side ways, when making wheels you use up just a small part of the disk by being able to move side ways you move to a new section of the sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pictures show the part is on a dowel and stays put, the disk is moved to the part and there are adjustments to set the depth.
> Now comes the best part because the jig is mounted to the router fence I can turn a nob and bring the work closer to the disk for super fine adjustment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Here I've added some angle to make the chimney.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see my sandpaper is shoot, need to hit HF and get some new ones.
> I meant to show sanding the parts but got working and only took a after it's done shoot. sorry!!!


Very ingenious Bruce…helped me with a couple of things…


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Smoke stack #4*
> 
> Worked on the dodad's that go on top of the boiler [smoke stack].
> Here's a better look at my sanding drum jig.
> I scrounged up a router fence and it has some great adjustments for easing up on the sander.
> I should add that this is set up for the Shop Smith but would work on other tools too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put slats on the bottom so it can move side ways when I loosen the bolt but can't move back.
> By being able to move side ways, when making wheels you use up just a small part of the disk by being able to move side ways you move to a new section of the sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pictures show the part is on a dowel and stays put, the disk is moved to the part and there are adjustments to set the depth.
> Now comes the best part because the jig is mounted to the router fence I can turn a nob and bring the work closer to the disk for super fine adjustment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I've added some angle to make the chimney.
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see my sandpaper is shoot, need to hit HF and get some new ones.
> I meant to show sanding the parts but got working and only took a after it's done shoot. sorry!!!


Crowie if it's a jig give us a look when you get er done.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Smoke stack #4*
> 
> Worked on the dodad's that go on top of the boiler [smoke stack].
> Here's a better look at my sanding drum jig.
> I scrounged up a router fence and it has some great adjustments for easing up on the sander.
> I should add that this is set up for the Shop Smith but would work on other tools too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put slats on the bottom so it can move side ways when I loosen the bolt but can't move back.
> By being able to move side ways, when making wheels you use up just a small part of the disk by being able to move side ways you move to a new section of the sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pictures show the part is on a dowel and stays put, the disk is moved to the part and there are adjustments to set the depth.
> Now comes the best part because the jig is mounted to the router fence I can turn a nob and bring the work closer to the disk for super fine adjustment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I've added some angle to make the chimney.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see my sandpaper is shoot, need to hit HF and get some new ones.
> I meant to show sanding the parts but got working and only took a after it's done shoot. sorry!!!





> Crowie if it s a jig give us a look when you get er done.
> 
> - htl


Bruce, not really a jig but just that you helped me realize how to make better use of my 12" disk sander making the job/process easier and safer. THANK YOU


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Smoke stack #4*
> 
> Worked on the dodad's that go on top of the boiler [smoke stack].
> Here's a better look at my sanding drum jig.
> I scrounged up a router fence and it has some great adjustments for easing up on the sander.
> I should add that this is set up for the Shop Smith but would work on other tools too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put slats on the bottom so it can move side ways when I loosen the bolt but can't move back.
> By being able to move side ways, when making wheels you use up just a small part of the disk by being able to move side ways you move to a new section of the sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pictures show the part is on a dowel and stays put, the disk is moved to the part and there are adjustments to set the depth.
> Now comes the best part because the jig is mounted to the router fence I can turn a nob and bring the work closer to the disk for super fine adjustment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I've added some angle to make the chimney.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see my sandpaper is shoot, need to hit HF and get some new ones.
> I meant to show sanding the parts but got working and only took a after it's done shoot. sorry!!!


Crowie
My work here is done, glad I could be of help. LOL


----------



## htl

*Starting to look like a train*

While I had the boiler in the sanding jig, drilled all the hand rail holes, made it so much easier to line every thing up.
Can't seem to get into high gear but it's coming together.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Starting to look like a train*
> 
> While I had the boiler in the sanding jig, drilled all the hand rail holes, made it so much easier to line every thing up.
> Can't seem to get into high gear but it's coming together.


This is turning out to be one beautiful model Bruce… Well done in the heat of your summer and sitting!!


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Starting to look like a train*
> 
> While I had the boiler in the sanding jig, drilled all the hand rail holes, made it so much easier to line every thing up.
> Can't seem to get into high gear but it's coming together.


Very impressive, looking good.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Starting to look like a train*
> 
> While I had the boiler in the sanding jig, drilled all the hand rail holes, made it so much easier to line every thing up.
> Can't seem to get into high gear but it's coming together.


that is going to be a beauty like the combo of wood …..GREAT JOB :<))


----------



## sras

htl said:


> *Starting to look like a train*
> 
> While I had the boiler in the sanding jig, drilled all the hand rail holes, made it so much easier to line every thing up.
> Can't seem to get into high gear but it's coming together.


Moving along nicely!


----------



## bruce317

htl said:


> *Starting to look like a train*
> 
> While I had the boiler in the sanding jig, drilled all the hand rail holes, made it so much easier to line every thing up.
> Can't seem to get into high gear but it's coming together.


Bruce,
That is one fine looking model! And it's not done yet. Great job.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Starting to look like a train*
> 
> While I had the boiler in the sanding jig, drilled all the hand rail holes, made it so much easier to line every thing up.
> Can't seem to get into high gear but it's coming together.


So nice to see #4. You are really back in building. How is temperature there?


----------



## Dee1

htl said:


> *Starting to look like a train*
> 
> While I had the boiler in the sanding jig, drilled all the hand rail holes, made it so much easier to line every thing up.
> Can't seem to get into high gear but it's coming together.


Very Nice it is indeed going to be a beauty I really am liking your wood contrast.
Dee1


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Starting to look like a train*
> 
> While I had the boiler in the sanding jig, drilled all the hand rail holes, made it so much easier to line every thing up.
> Can't seem to get into high gear but it's coming together.


Thanks all!!!
I would have much rather built it out of oak and cherry but free poplar and cherry will get er done, and it will turn out to be a much lighter [brighter] looking on the shelf.
I can't wait to build a cattle[fruit] car for it.
You have to remember this train is 1/3 again bigger than my other trains, so all new cars are needed. :-]


----------



## htl

*Been working on the wheels #6*

Got started on the wheels and brackets for them.
I again made the spokes like on the last train.
Then while I was at it and had the tools set up cut out wheels for two more cars.
Here's how I did the wheels in my last build.
This time I used the miter saw to cut the groves for the spokes was much easier.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Been working on the wheels #6*
> 
> Got started on the wheels and brackets for them.
> I again made the spokes like on the last train.
> Then while I was at it and had the tools set up cut out wheels for two more cars.
> Here's how I did the wheels in my last build.
> This time I used the miter saw to cut the groves for the spokes was much easier.


looking good Bruce :<))


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Been working on the wheels #6*
> 
> Got started on the wheels and brackets for them.
> I again made the spokes like on the last train.
> Then while I was at it and had the tools set up cut out wheels for two more cars.
> Here's how I did the wheels in my last build.
> This time I used the miter saw to cut the groves for the spokes was much easier.


Great job on the wheels *#4*... however, that is now *expected…

*But… and a *big BUT* (no, not a "missus butt")... the funnel on it's side will not cut the mustard… unless you are pouring out the *excess steam*!


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Been working on the wheels #6*
> 
> Got started on the wheels and brackets for them.
> I again made the spokes like on the last train.
> Then while I was at it and had the tools set up cut out wheels for two more cars.
> Here's how I did the wheels in my last build.
> This time I used the miter saw to cut the groves for the spokes was much easier.


*Fantastic! Looks great!*


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Been working on the wheels #6*
> 
> Got started on the wheels and brackets for them.
> I again made the spokes like on the last train.
> Then while I was at it and had the tools set up cut out wheels for two more cars.
> Here's how I did the wheels in my last build.
> This time I used the miter saw to cut the groves for the spokes was much easier.


Ducky?


> The funnel on it's side


?


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Been working on the wheels #6*
> 
> Got started on the wheels and brackets for them.
> I again made the spokes like on the last train.
> Then while I was at it and had the tools set up cut out wheels for two more cars.
> Here's how I did the wheels in my last build.
> This time I used the miter saw to cut the groves for the spokes was much easier.


Hey *#4*... it is your picture after all!

Looks like the quality of your *wackie-backie *is not as good as mine….


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Been working on the wheels #6*
> 
> Got started on the wheels and brackets for them.
> I again made the spokes like on the last train.
> Then while I was at it and had the tools set up cut out wheels for two more cars.
> Here's how I did the wheels in my last build.
> This time I used the miter saw to cut the groves for the spokes was much easier.


Nice job on the wheels.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Been working on the wheels #6*
> 
> Got started on the wheels and brackets for them.
> I again made the spokes like on the last train.
> Then while I was at it and had the tools set up cut out wheels for two more cars.
> Here's how I did the wheels in my last build.
> This time I used the miter saw to cut the groves for the spokes was much easier.


I didn't know what a funnel was, till you started making fun of mine. LOL
I build them I don't pay much attention to the name of the parts.
So I guess the one in the picture is a new fangled screw funnel *Much more aerodynamic*.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Been working on the wheels #6*
> 
> Got started on the wheels and brackets for them.
> I again made the spokes like on the last train.
> Then while I was at it and had the tools set up cut out wheels for two more cars.
> Here's how I did the wheels in my last build.
> This time I used the miter saw to cut the groves for the spokes was much easier.


This one beautiful Loco Bruce…. 
Thank you for all the "work in progress" photos and build notes..much appreciated.


----------



## Dee1

htl said:


> *Been working on the wheels #6*
> 
> Got started on the wheels and brackets for them.
> I again made the spokes like on the last train.
> Then while I was at it and had the tools set up cut out wheels for two more cars.
> Here's how I did the wheels in my last build.
> This time I used the miter saw to cut the groves for the spokes was much easier.


Bruce that is going to a top of the line model very nice my friend.


----------



## Belg1960

htl said:


> *Been working on the wheels #6*
> 
> Got started on the wheels and brackets for them.
> I again made the spokes like on the last train.
> Then while I was at it and had the tools set up cut out wheels for two more cars.
> Here's how I did the wheels in my last build.
> This time I used the miter saw to cut the groves for the spokes was much easier.


So you used the same technique to cut the grooves in the wheels that you used in your latest siding technique for the cattle car? You still added the glued on pattern I assume? 
"This time I used the miter saw to cut the groves for the spokes was much easier."


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Been working on the wheels #6*
> 
> Got started on the wheels and brackets for them.
> I again made the spokes like on the last train.
> Then while I was at it and had the tools set up cut out wheels for two more cars.
> Here's how I did the wheels in my last build.
> This time I used the miter saw to cut the groves for the spokes was much easier.


Belg I found a picture of a train wheel with clearly defined spooks and glued this on the round wood blank then with a hold down placed the blank to be cut on the Miter saw.


----------



## htl

*Got the Funnel Fitted & the Domes Too*

As I've said before a slow go but it's getting there.
Glued up the boiler, funnel, domes, cab and more.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Got the Funnel Fitted & the Domes Too*
> 
> As I've said before a slow go but it's getting there.
> Glued up the boiler, funnel, domes, cab and more.


Might be a little slow BUT it'll soon be steaming down the tracks…


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Got the Funnel Fitted & the Domes Too*
> 
> As I've said before a slow go but it's getting there.
> Glued up the boiler, funnel, domes, cab and more.





> Might be a little slow BUT it ll soon be steaming down *the tracks*...
> 
> - crowie


OUCH! Do we need to go "*tracking*" again? *Shirley* there must be some left over from the last session!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Got the Funnel Fitted & the Domes Too*
> 
> As I've said before a slow go but it's getting there.
> Glued up the boiler, funnel, domes, cab and more.


Ducky if you remember this is a bigger train so, need I say more???


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Got the Funnel Fitted & the Domes Too*
> 
> As I've said before a slow go but it's getting there.
> Glued up the boiler, funnel, domes, cab and more.





> ... a bigger train …
> 
> - htl


Here we go again…


----------



## robscastle

htl said:


> *Got the Funnel Fitted & the Domes Too*
> 
> As I've said before a slow go but it's getting there.
> Glued up the boiler, funnel, domes, cab and more.


An impressive progress so far

and FWIW the metal tyres on the bogies are held on by a Jakobs Ring


----------



## hunter71

htl said:


> *Got the Funnel Fitted & the Domes Too*
> 
> As I've said before a slow go but it's getting there.
> Glued up the boiler, funnel, domes, cab and more.


lookin good


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Got the Funnel Fitted & the Domes Too*
> 
> As I've said before a slow go but it's getting there.
> Glued up the boiler, funnel, domes, cab and more.


Looks good, perseverance will prevail in a job well done.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Got the Funnel Fitted & the Domes Too*
> 
> As I've said before a slow go but it's getting there.
> Glued up the boiler, funnel, domes, cab and more.


robcastle

*metal tyres on the bogies are held on by a Jakobs Ring*

Would you please translate this into english. LOL


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Got the Funnel Fitted & the Domes Too*
> 
> As I've said before a slow go but it's getting there.
> Glued up the boiler, funnel, domes, cab and more.


I did a google for jakobs ring and got-
Surely not!!! LOL


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Got the Funnel Fitted & the Domes Too*
> 
> As I've said before a slow go but it's getting there.
> Glued up the boiler, funnel, domes, cab and more.


Ducky here is the blog on the difference in size.
I'm going full plan size with this train, wish now I wasn't but here we go.


----------



## robscastle

htl said:


> *Got the Funnel Fitted & the Domes Too*
> 
> As I've said before a slow go but it's getting there.
> Glued up the boiler, funnel, domes, cab and more.


The bogies are callled Jakobs after the I guess inventor?

I assume they are expensive but I dont thnk you will see and sparklers unless its from Saudi Arabia !!

Technologies - Articulated trains (Jakob-type bogies)
www.railway-energy.org/static/Articulatedtrains_Jakobtype_bogies_12.php
Whereas conventional stock consists of individual carriages resting on two bogies each, articulated trains consist of a fixed composition of coaches with consecutive cars resting on shared bogies. ... Whereas conventional stock consists of individual carriages resting on two bogies … hopefully it makes more sense to you than me.


----------



## htl

*How do you catch a cow?*

With a cow catcher of course.
The first one I made didn't go very well nun of the slats matched up or were spaced right so I went back to my old trick of cutting grooves in the back and bottom, now every thing stays lined up.








Notice here in the wood burner plans above they give you the shapes for the catchers in the coal train plans they don't help you out much with this.









I used two skill saw blades to get the right width cut.
I also groove the back and bottom as one board so the grooves will match up just right.



































Not the same but pretty close.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *How do you catch a cow?*
> 
> With a cow catcher of course.
> The first one I made didn't go very well nun of the slats matched up or were spaced right so I went back to my old trick of cutting grooves in the back and bottom, now every thing stays lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice here in the wood burner plans above they give you the shapes for the catchers in the coal train plans they don't help you out much with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used two skill saw blades to get the right width cut.
> I also groove the back and bottom as one board so the grooves will match up just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not the same but pretty close.


MOOOOOOOOOOO :<))


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *How do you catch a cow?*
> 
> With a cow catcher of course.
> The first one I made didn't go very well nun of the slats matched up or were spaced right so I went back to my old trick of cutting grooves in the back and bottom, now every thing stays lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice here in the wood burner plans above they give you the shapes for the catchers in the coal train plans they don't help you out much with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used two skill saw blades to get the right width cut.
> I also groove the back and bottom as one board so the grooves will match up just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not the same but pretty close.


This is important stuff, so we *MUST keep this serious*. :-}
There's to be no MOOOOOing in the cow shed!!!


----------



## bruce317

htl said:


> *How do you catch a cow?*
> 
> With a cow catcher of course.
> The first one I made didn't go very well nun of the slats matched up or were spaced right so I went back to my old trick of cutting grooves in the back and bottom, now every thing stays lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice here in the wood burner plans above they give you the shapes for the catchers in the coal train plans they don't help you out much with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used two skill saw blades to get the right width cut.
> I also groove the back and bottom as one board so the grooves will match up just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not the same but pretty close.





> MOOOOOOOOOOO :<))
> 
> - GR8HUNTER





> This is important stuff, so we *MUST keep this serious*. :-}
> There s to be no MOOOOOing in the cow shed!!!
> 
> - htl


Ok Bruce, how about, "GOT MILK"?


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *How do you catch a cow?*
> 
> With a cow catcher of course.
> The first one I made didn't go very well nun of the slats matched up or were spaced right so I went back to my old trick of cutting grooves in the back and bottom, now every thing stays lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice here in the wood burner plans above they give you the shapes for the catchers in the coal train plans they don't help you out much with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used two skill saw blades to get the right width cut.
> I also groove the back and bottom as one board so the grooves will match up just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not the same but pretty close.


OINK OINK OINK :<))


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *How do you catch a cow?*
> 
> With a cow catcher of course.
> The first one I made didn't go very well nun of the slats matched up or were spaced right so I went back to my old trick of cutting grooves in the back and bottom, now every thing stays lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice here in the wood burner plans above they give you the shapes for the catchers in the coal train plans they don't help you out much with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used two skill saw blades to get the right width cut.
> I also groove the back and bottom as one board so the grooves will match up just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not the same but pretty close.





> There s to be no MOOOOOing in the cow shed!!!
> 
> - htl


Just *GOOOooo* on the gumbies!

*BTW.* Nice job on the *"Bull Bar"*. The trims cap it off.


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *How do you catch a cow?*
> 
> With a cow catcher of course.
> The first one I made didn't go very well nun of the slats matched up or were spaced right so I went back to my old trick of cutting grooves in the back and bottom, now every thing stays lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice here in the wood burner plans above they give you the shapes for the catchers in the coal train plans they don't help you out much with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used two skill saw blades to get the right width cut.
> I also groove the back and bottom as one board so the grooves will match up just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not the same but pretty close.


Looks good now!


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *How do you catch a cow?*
> 
> With a cow catcher of course.
> The first one I made didn't go very well nun of the slats matched up or were spaced right so I went back to my old trick of cutting grooves in the back and bottom, now every thing stays lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice here in the wood burner plans above they give you the shapes for the catchers in the coal train plans they don't help you out much with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used two skill saw blades to get the right width cut.
> I also groove the back and bottom as one board so the grooves will match up just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not the same but pretty close.


As you said Bruce, very minor in the differences so superb job!!


----------



## johnstoneb

htl said:


> *How do you catch a cow?*
> 
> With a cow catcher of course.
> The first one I made didn't go very well nun of the slats matched up or were spaced right so I went back to my old trick of cutting grooves in the back and bottom, now every thing stays lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice here in the wood burner plans above they give you the shapes for the catchers in the coal train plans they don't help you out much with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used two skill saw blades to get the right width cut.
> I also groove the back and bottom as one board so the grooves will match up just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not the same but pretty close.


Keep this up. I'm enjoying reading your blog


----------



## oldnovice

htl said:


> *How do you catch a cow?*
> 
> With a cow catcher of course.
> The first one I made didn't go very well nun of the slats matched up or were spaced right so I went back to my old trick of cutting grooves in the back and bottom, now every thing stays lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice here in the wood burner plans above they give you the shapes for the catchers in the coal train plans they don't help you out much with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used two skill saw blades to get the right width cut.
> I also groove the back and bottom as one board so the grooves will match up just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not the same but pretty close.


I used to be a model railroaded with some vintage locomotives that had cow catchers just like that!
A nice version of the cow catcher!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *How do you catch a cow?*
> 
> With a cow catcher of course.
> The first one I made didn't go very well nun of the slats matched up or were spaced right so I went back to my old trick of cutting grooves in the back and bottom, now every thing stays lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice here in the wood burner plans above they give you the shapes for the catchers in the coal train plans they don't help you out much with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used two skill saw blades to get the right width cut.
> I also groove the back and bottom as one board so the grooves will match up just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not the same but pretty close.


Had to have a third look at how you made it *#4*... came up really great in the finished post!

Don't know how I missed this….

Is the tissue there









to provide a soft landing for caught cows???


----------



## htl

*Getting close*

Not got to much more for this puppy.

Just some pictures for a days work.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Getting close*
> 
> Not got to much more for this puppy.
> 
> Just some pictures for a days work.


Very nice, as always. At the moment I'm on vacation with my VR and don't see al your contributions, but when I'm back home I will enjoy al what I have missed.


----------



## diggerdelaney

htl said:


> *Getting close*
> 
> Not got to much more for this puppy.
> 
> Just some pictures for a days work.


Have not posted or commented on here but have been watching from the side lines Coming along just great


----------



## Redoak49

htl said:


> *Getting close*
> 
> Not got to much more for this puppy.
> 
> Just some pictures for a days work.


Really well done!!


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Getting close*
> 
> Not got to much more for this puppy.
> 
> Just some pictures for a days work.


You've certainly done yourself proud with the quality of this train build Bruce…beautiful workmanship!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Getting close*
> 
> Not got to much more for this puppy.
> 
> Just some pictures for a days work.


Thanks guys!!!
I've been working really hard on it.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Getting close*
> 
> Not got to much more for this puppy.
> 
> Just some pictures for a days work.





> Thanks guys!!!
> I ve been working really hard on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - htl


That little bloke needs a longer lever bar…..ha ha….but marks for effort!!


----------



## chief101

htl said:


> *Getting close*
> 
> Not got to much more for this puppy.
> 
> Just some pictures for a days work.


Wow beautiful.


----------



## robscastle

htl said:


> *Getting close*
> 
> Not got to much more for this puppy.
> 
> Just some pictures for a days work.


Very nice work!

In my younger days I was a avid bushwalker and spent many days exploring the Blue Mountains and environs
(crowie country) anyway I found my way into the Wolgan Valley where kerosene shale had been mined.
To get the shale out of the rugged mountains they built a entire railway system and used what was called Shay locos, they were gear driven bogies capable of very tight turns and pitches well above the standard 1:40 for a "normal Railway" incline

The locos unfortunately were all cut up for scrap amd the railway lines ended up in Tobruk as defences.

Here is a picture of one of the locos, I thought it may be of interest.










Further reading http://users.tpg.com.au/newnes/r/loco.htm

Enjoy


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Getting close*
> 
> Not got to much more for this puppy.
> 
> Just some pictures for a days work.


Very interesting!!!
I love that they had a drive shaft system, very interesting indeed!!!


----------



## htl

*Building the tender*

Need some parts from Hobby Lobby or may make my own to finish the train, but just so much easier to modify HL stuff.
So played with the tender today, which I loved doing it's an easy one day project not counting the wheels.



























I wanted to trim out the edges with cherry but ran out, but it should be ok.




























And tomorrow will be starting on sanding all these wheels.








Here's a blog of the last one I did and I like it a lot better. [step by step]


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Building the tender*
> 
> Need some parts from Hobby Lobby or may make my own to finish the train, but just so much easier to modify HL stuff.
> So played with the tender today, which I loved doing it's an easy one day project not counting the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to trim out the edges with cherry but ran out, but it should be ok.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And tomorrow will be starting on sanding all these wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a blog of the last one I did and I like it a lot better. [step by step]


The tender is coming together quickly Bruce…


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Building the tender*
> 
> Need some parts from Hobby Lobby or may make my own to finish the train, but just so much easier to modify HL stuff.
> So played with the tender today, which I loved doing it's an easy one day project not counting the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to trim out the edges with cherry but ran out, but it should be ok.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And tomorrow will be starting on sanding all these wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a blog of the last one I did and I like it a lot better. [step by step]


Finished up the train so here's the project.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Building the tender*
> 
> Need some parts from Hobby Lobby or may make my own to finish the train, but just so much easier to modify HL stuff.
> So played with the tender today, which I loved doing it's an easy one day project not counting the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to trim out the edges with cherry but ran out, but it should be ok.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And tomorrow will be starting on sanding all these wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a blog of the last one I did and I like it a lot better. [step by step]


What a top project Bruce, You've certainly done yourself and the train proud with this beautiful project…


----------



## htl

*Last How to for the train*

I needed to drill a 1/8" hole in a 1/4" dowel at an angle for two of the braces, so here's how I got it done.









First cut a 2×4 at the right angle then cut a groove for the 1/4" dowel to sit in and then adjusted the drill to be just off center as the brad bit wanted to move around the rounded shape, but by setting it just behind where I wanted it [and drilling very slowly] the drill bit pulled itself to the right spot. [We are talking about a 1/8 brad bit here]




































Hope this is helpful for someone.


----------



## htl

*#2 Cattle car *

Need some cars for the new wood burner so loved building my last cattle car so here we go again.
This will be full size like the train plans but this is a scratch build no plans just a couple a picture like last one.

Started on the base 4 1/2" wide to match the tender by 13" long.
I really think it would be wider if it was to scale but this will keep it from getting to big for my needs.
I cut grooves to get the look of planks.
I used my miter saw and it works ok but is so much easier to cut these on the table saw BUT being so narrow didn't like using the TS.

How to #1

Set the saw to cut 1/4" or what looks right.
Make a mark on the fence to know where to put the wood for each cut.





































We want it to look something like this when done but being bigger maybe we can add more details we'll see.
I know many have seen this in one of my how toes but I never really think I did it justice.
So here's one more try at it.
You may have guessed but I like the look of these grooves and just like making them. LOL










First we need to glue on the bracing which will be what holds the whole thing together.
Don't skimp on the glue here this is what holds this altogether!!!





































How to #2
Now it's time to cut out the slats.
I wanted just over *1/4" for the slats so cut a spacer board* to match, 
I also used a skill saw 7 1/4 thin kerf blade for the cuts.

First set the spacer next to the fence and slid it over to the blade this will be your first cut. [top of side]










Now set the side back over the blade [saw is stopped] move the fence out add the spacer and then move the fence back over next to the spacer and blade.








Take the spacer out and take out the side and get ready for next cut.


















Now it starts all over again.








Set the car side back into the cut you just made.








Add the spacer.








Move the fence over and you ready for the next cut.

















Now we start it all over again.




































The spacer is in there but it's hard to make out.














































It would pay to practice on something just to get the hang of it.
There are some really cool thing that can be done with this tip.
Some have covered the out sides of jewelry boxes to get some out standing shapes.

So here's what I've got to show for my working in the shop.



























I don't know why but I just love making things with grooves on them as you all have found out if you've looked at any of my projects.

It's groovy man Groovy!!!


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *#2 Cattle car *
> 
> Need some cars for the new wood burner so loved building my last cattle car so here we go again.
> This will be full size like the train plans but this is a scratch build no plans just a couple a picture like last one.
> 
> Started on the base 4 1/2" wide to match the tender by 13" long.
> I really think it would be wider if it was to scale but this will keep it from getting to big for my needs.
> I cut grooves to get the look of planks.
> I used my miter saw and it works ok but is so much easier to cut these on the table saw BUT being so narrow didn't like using the TS.
> 
> How to #1
> 
> Set the saw to cut 1/4" or what looks right.
> Make a mark on the fence to know where to put the wood for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We want it to look something like this when done but being bigger maybe we can add more details we'll see.
> I know many have seen this in one of my how toes but I never really think I did it justice.
> So here's one more try at it.
> You may have guessed but I like the look of these grooves and just like making them. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First we need to glue on the bracing which will be what holds the whole thing together.
> Don't skimp on the glue here this is what holds this altogether!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How to #2
> Now it's time to cut out the slats.
> I wanted just over *1/4" for the slats so cut a spacer board* to match,
> I also used a skill saw 7 1/4 thin kerf blade for the cuts.
> 
> First set the spacer next to the fence and slid it over to the blade this will be your first cut. [top of side]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now set the side back over the blade [saw is stopped] move the fence out add the spacer and then move the fence back over next to the spacer and blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the spacer out and take out the side and get ready for next cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it starts all over again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set the car side back into the cut you just made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add the spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Move the fence over and you ready for the next cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we start it all over again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The spacer is in there but it's hard to make out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would pay to practice on something just to get the hang of it.
> There are some really cool thing that can be done with this tip.
> Some have covered the out sides of jewelry boxes to get some out standing shapes.
> 
> So here's what I've got to show for my working in the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know why but I just love making things with grooves on them as you all have found out if you've looked at any of my projects.
> 
> It's groovy man Groovy!!!


My goodness me Bruce, 
the lacquer is just dry on the loco and you're already well into the carriages for all the us cattle….


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *#2 Cattle car *
> 
> Need some cars for the new wood burner so loved building my last cattle car so here we go again.
> This will be full size like the train plans but this is a scratch build no plans just a couple a picture like last one.
> 
> Started on the base 4 1/2" wide to match the tender by 13" long.
> I really think it would be wider if it was to scale but this will keep it from getting to big for my needs.
> I cut grooves to get the look of planks.
> I used my miter saw and it works ok but is so much easier to cut these on the table saw BUT being so narrow didn't like using the TS.
> 
> How to #1
> 
> Set the saw to cut 1/4" or what looks right.
> Make a mark on the fence to know where to put the wood for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We want it to look something like this when done but being bigger maybe we can add more details we'll see.
> I know many have seen this in one of my how toes but I never really think I did it justice.
> So here's one more try at it.
> You may have guessed but I like the look of these grooves and just like making them. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First we need to glue on the bracing which will be what holds the whole thing together.
> Don't skimp on the glue here this is what holds this altogether!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How to #2
> Now it's time to cut out the slats.
> I wanted just over *1/4" for the slats so cut a spacer board* to match,
> I also used a skill saw 7 1/4 thin kerf blade for the cuts.
> 
> First set the spacer next to the fence and slid it over to the blade this will be your first cut. [top of side]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now set the side back over the blade [saw is stopped] move the fence out add the spacer and then move the fence back over next to the spacer and blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the spacer out and take out the side and get ready for next cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it starts all over again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set the car side back into the cut you just made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add the spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Move the fence over and you ready for the next cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we start it all over again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The spacer is in there but it's hard to make out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would pay to practice on something just to get the hang of it.
> There are some really cool thing that can be done with this tip.
> Some have covered the out sides of jewelry boxes to get some out standing shapes.
> 
> So here's what I've got to show for my working in the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know why but I just love making things with grooves on them as you all have found out if you've looked at any of my projects.
> 
> It's groovy man Groovy!!!


I just love building the cattle car!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *#2 Cattle car *
> 
> Need some cars for the new wood burner so loved building my last cattle car so here we go again.
> This will be full size like the train plans but this is a scratch build no plans just a couple a picture like last one.
> 
> Started on the base 4 1/2" wide to match the tender by 13" long.
> I really think it would be wider if it was to scale but this will keep it from getting to big for my needs.
> I cut grooves to get the look of planks.
> I used my miter saw and it works ok but is so much easier to cut these on the table saw BUT being so narrow didn't like using the TS.
> 
> How to #1
> 
> Set the saw to cut 1/4" or what looks right.
> Make a mark on the fence to know where to put the wood for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We want it to look something like this when done but being bigger maybe we can add more details we'll see.
> I know many have seen this in one of my how toes but I never really think I did it justice.
> So here's one more try at it.
> You may have guessed but I like the look of these grooves and just like making them. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First we need to glue on the bracing which will be what holds the whole thing together.
> Don't skimp on the glue here this is what holds this altogether!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How to #2
> Now it's time to cut out the slats.
> I wanted just over *1/4" for the slats so cut a spacer board* to match,
> I also used a skill saw 7 1/4 thin kerf blade for the cuts.
> 
> First set the spacer next to the fence and slid it over to the blade this will be your first cut. [top of side]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now set the side back over the blade [saw is stopped] move the fence out add the spacer and then move the fence back over next to the spacer and blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the spacer out and take out the side and get ready for next cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it starts all over again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set the car side back into the cut you just made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add the spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Move the fence over and you ready for the next cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we start it all over again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The spacer is in there but it's hard to make out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would pay to practice on something just to get the hang of it.
> There are some really cool thing that can be done with this tip.
> Some have covered the out sides of jewelry boxes to get some out standing shapes.
> 
> So here's what I've got to show for my working in the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know why but I just love making things with grooves on them as you all have found out if you've looked at any of my projects.
> 
> It's groovy man Groovy!!!





> My goodness me Bruce,
> the lacquer is just dry on the loco and you re already well into the carriages for all the us cattle….
> 
> - crowie


Nor let dust settle on the tracks.

Great technique *#4*.

Actually this picture (left side),








has a subtle appeal to me. It has the simplicity of a flat face but the complexity of the "transparent" frame. Unfortunately its probably a photographic illusion and impractical in real life.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *#2 Cattle car *
> 
> Need some cars for the new wood burner so loved building my last cattle car so here we go again.
> This will be full size like the train plans but this is a scratch build no plans just a couple a picture like last one.
> 
> Started on the base 4 1/2" wide to match the tender by 13" long.
> I really think it would be wider if it was to scale but this will keep it from getting to big for my needs.
> I cut grooves to get the look of planks.
> I used my miter saw and it works ok but is so much easier to cut these on the table saw BUT being so narrow didn't like using the TS.
> 
> How to #1
> 
> Set the saw to cut 1/4" or what looks right.
> Make a mark on the fence to know where to put the wood for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We want it to look something like this when done but being bigger maybe we can add more details we'll see.
> I know many have seen this in one of my how toes but I never really think I did it justice.
> So here's one more try at it.
> You may have guessed but I like the look of these grooves and just like making them. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First we need to glue on the bracing which will be what holds the whole thing together.
> Don't skimp on the glue here this is what holds this altogether!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How to #2
> Now it's time to cut out the slats.
> I wanted just over *1/4" for the slats so cut a spacer board* to match,
> I also used a skill saw 7 1/4 thin kerf blade for the cuts.
> 
> First set the spacer next to the fence and slid it over to the blade this will be your first cut. [top of side]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now set the side back over the blade [saw is stopped] move the fence out add the spacer and then move the fence back over next to the spacer and blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the spacer out and take out the side and get ready for next cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it starts all over again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set the car side back into the cut you just made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add the spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Move the fence over and you ready for the next cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we start it all over again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The spacer is in there but it's hard to make out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would pay to practice on something just to get the hang of it.
> There are some really cool thing that can be done with this tip.
> Some have covered the out sides of jewelry boxes to get some out standing shapes.
> 
> So here's what I've got to show for my working in the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know why but I just love making things with grooves on them as you all have found out if you've looked at any of my projects.
> 
> It's groovy man Groovy!!!


Ducky it's just the flip side, same as the other.
I was just thinking what would the cattle car look like with the bracing put to the inside--Transparent framing?
The problem is you will only notice it at a few angles.
If your interested I'll take a couple pictures tomorrow to see what happens.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *#2 Cattle car *
> 
> Need some cars for the new wood burner so loved building my last cattle car so here we go again.
> This will be full size like the train plans but this is a scratch build no plans just a couple a picture like last one.
> 
> Started on the base 4 1/2" wide to match the tender by 13" long.
> I really think it would be wider if it was to scale but this will keep it from getting to big for my needs.
> I cut grooves to get the look of planks.
> I used my miter saw and it works ok but is so much easier to cut these on the table saw BUT being so narrow didn't like using the TS.
> 
> How to #1
> 
> Set the saw to cut 1/4" or what looks right.
> Make a mark on the fence to know where to put the wood for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We want it to look something like this when done but being bigger maybe we can add more details we'll see.
> I know many have seen this in one of my how toes but I never really think I did it justice.
> So here's one more try at it.
> You may have guessed but I like the look of these grooves and just like making them. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First we need to glue on the bracing which will be what holds the whole thing together.
> Don't skimp on the glue here this is what holds this altogether!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How to #2
> Now it's time to cut out the slats.
> I wanted just over *1/4" for the slats so cut a spacer board* to match,
> I also used a skill saw 7 1/4 thin kerf blade for the cuts.
> 
> First set the spacer next to the fence and slid it over to the blade this will be your first cut. [top of side]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now set the side back over the blade [saw is stopped] move the fence out add the spacer and then move the fence back over next to the spacer and blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the spacer out and take out the side and get ready for next cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it starts all over again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set the car side back into the cut you just made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add the spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Move the fence over and you ready for the next cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we start it all over again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The spacer is in there but it's hard to make out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would pay to practice on something just to get the hang of it.
> There are some really cool thing that can be done with this tip.
> Some have covered the out sides of jewelry boxes to get some out standing shapes.
> 
> So here's what I've got to show for my working in the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know why but I just love making things with grooves on them as you all have found out if you've looked at any of my projects.
> 
> It's groovy man Groovy!!!





> Ducky it s just the flip side, same as the other.
> I was just thinking what would the cattle car look like with the bracing put to the inside--Transparent framing?
> The problem is you will only notice it at a few angles.
> If your interested I ll take a couple pictures tomorrow to see what happens.
> 
> - htl


No criticism or challenge! It's just that in the phot it just looked appealing.. at least to me. From the reverse side, in the picture, you can get a glimpse of the framing (through the slats) giving it a "transparent" look. 
I appreciate that in real life, put together, that look would be lost in the lighting/shadows etc… It's just that in the photo I thought it looked inspirational.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *#2 Cattle car *
> 
> Need some cars for the new wood burner so loved building my last cattle car so here we go again.
> This will be full size like the train plans but this is a scratch build no plans just a couple a picture like last one.
> 
> Started on the base 4 1/2" wide to match the tender by 13" long.
> I really think it would be wider if it was to scale but this will keep it from getting to big for my needs.
> I cut grooves to get the look of planks.
> I used my miter saw and it works ok but is so much easier to cut these on the table saw BUT being so narrow didn't like using the TS.
> 
> How to #1
> 
> Set the saw to cut 1/4" or what looks right.
> Make a mark on the fence to know where to put the wood for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We want it to look something like this when done but being bigger maybe we can add more details we'll see.
> I know many have seen this in one of my how toes but I never really think I did it justice.
> So here's one more try at it.
> You may have guessed but I like the look of these grooves and just like making them. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First we need to glue on the bracing which will be what holds the whole thing together.
> Don't skimp on the glue here this is what holds this altogether!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How to #2
> Now it's time to cut out the slats.
> I wanted just over *1/4" for the slats so cut a spacer board* to match,
> I also used a skill saw 7 1/4 thin kerf blade for the cuts.
> 
> First set the spacer next to the fence and slid it over to the blade this will be your first cut. [top of side]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now set the side back over the blade [saw is stopped] move the fence out add the spacer and then move the fence back over next to the spacer and blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the spacer out and take out the side and get ready for next cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it starts all over again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set the car side back into the cut you just made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add the spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Move the fence over and you ready for the next cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we start it all over again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The spacer is in there but it's hard to make out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would pay to practice on something just to get the hang of it.
> There are some really cool thing that can be done with this tip.
> Some have covered the out sides of jewelry boxes to get some out standing shapes.
> 
> So here's what I've got to show for my working in the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know why but I just love making things with grooves on them as you all have found out if you've looked at any of my projects.
> 
> It's groovy man Groovy!!!


It's all in the angles.


----------



## bruce317

htl said:


> *#2 Cattle car *
> 
> Need some cars for the new wood burner so loved building my last cattle car so here we go again.
> This will be full size like the train plans but this is a scratch build no plans just a couple a picture like last one.
> 
> Started on the base 4 1/2" wide to match the tender by 13" long.
> I really think it would be wider if it was to scale but this will keep it from getting to big for my needs.
> I cut grooves to get the look of planks.
> I used my miter saw and it works ok but is so much easier to cut these on the table saw BUT being so narrow didn't like using the TS.
> 
> How to #1
> 
> Set the saw to cut 1/4" or what looks right.
> Make a mark on the fence to know where to put the wood for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We want it to look something like this when done but being bigger maybe we can add more details we'll see.
> I know many have seen this in one of my how toes but I never really think I did it justice.
> So here's one more try at it.
> You may have guessed but I like the look of these grooves and just like making them. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First we need to glue on the bracing which will be what holds the whole thing together.
> Don't skimp on the glue here this is what holds this altogether!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How to #2
> Now it's time to cut out the slats.
> I wanted just over *1/4" for the slats so cut a spacer board* to match,
> I also used a skill saw 7 1/4 thin kerf blade for the cuts.
> 
> First set the spacer next to the fence and slid it over to the blade this will be your first cut. [top of side]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now set the side back over the blade [saw is stopped] move the fence out add the spacer and then move the fence back over next to the spacer and blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the spacer out and take out the side and get ready for next cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it starts all over again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set the car side back into the cut you just made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add the spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Move the fence over and you ready for the next cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we start it all over again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The spacer is in there but it's hard to make out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would pay to practice on something just to get the hang of it.
> There are some really cool thing that can be done with this tip.
> Some have covered the out sides of jewelry boxes to get some out standing shapes.
> 
> So here's what I've got to show for my working in the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know why but I just love making things with grooves on them as you all have found out if you've looked at any of my projects.
> 
> It's groovy man Groovy!!!


Another winner, Bruce!!


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *#2 Cattle car *
> 
> Need some cars for the new wood burner so loved building my last cattle car so here we go again.
> This will be full size like the train plans but this is a scratch build no plans just a couple a picture like last one.
> 
> Started on the base 4 1/2" wide to match the tender by 13" long.
> I really think it would be wider if it was to scale but this will keep it from getting to big for my needs.
> I cut grooves to get the look of planks.
> I used my miter saw and it works ok but is so much easier to cut these on the table saw BUT being so narrow didn't like using the TS.
> 
> How to #1
> 
> Set the saw to cut 1/4" or what looks right.
> Make a mark on the fence to know where to put the wood for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We want it to look something like this when done but being bigger maybe we can add more details we'll see.
> I know many have seen this in one of my how toes but I never really think I did it justice.
> So here's one more try at it.
> You may have guessed but I like the look of these grooves and just like making them. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First we need to glue on the bracing which will be what holds the whole thing together.
> Don't skimp on the glue here this is what holds this altogether!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How to #2
> Now it's time to cut out the slats.
> I wanted just over *1/4" for the slats so cut a spacer board* to match,
> I also used a skill saw 7 1/4 thin kerf blade for the cuts.
> 
> First set the spacer next to the fence and slid it over to the blade this will be your first cut. [top of side]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now set the side back over the blade [saw is stopped] move the fence out add the spacer and then move the fence back over next to the spacer and blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the spacer out and take out the side and get ready for next cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it starts all over again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set the car side back into the cut you just made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add the spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Move the fence over and you ready for the next cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we start it all over again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The spacer is in there but it's hard to make out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would pay to practice on something just to get the hang of it.
> There are some really cool thing that can be done with this tip.
> Some have covered the out sides of jewelry boxes to get some out standing shapes.
> 
> So here's what I've got to show for my working in the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know why but I just love making things with grooves on them as you all have found out if you've looked at any of my projects.
> 
> It's groovy man Groovy!!!


Always nice to see how others solve there woodworking challenges. It keeps us on track.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *#2 Cattle car *
> 
> Need some cars for the new wood burner so loved building my last cattle car so here we go again.
> This will be full size like the train plans but this is a scratch build no plans just a couple a picture like last one.
> 
> Started on the base 4 1/2" wide to match the tender by 13" long.
> I really think it would be wider if it was to scale but this will keep it from getting to big for my needs.
> I cut grooves to get the look of planks.
> I used my miter saw and it works ok but is so much easier to cut these on the table saw BUT being so narrow didn't like using the TS.
> 
> How to #1
> 
> Set the saw to cut 1/4" or what looks right.
> Make a mark on the fence to know where to put the wood for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We want it to look something like this when done but being bigger maybe we can add more details we'll see.
> I know many have seen this in one of my how toes but I never really think I did it justice.
> So here's one more try at it.
> You may have guessed but I like the look of these grooves and just like making them. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First we need to glue on the bracing which will be what holds the whole thing together.
> Don't skimp on the glue here this is what holds this altogether!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How to #2
> Now it's time to cut out the slats.
> I wanted just over *1/4" for the slats so cut a spacer board* to match,
> I also used a skill saw 7 1/4 thin kerf blade for the cuts.
> 
> First set the spacer next to the fence and slid it over to the blade this will be your first cut. [top of side]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now set the side back over the blade [saw is stopped] move the fence out add the spacer and then move the fence back over next to the spacer and blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the spacer out and take out the side and get ready for next cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it starts all over again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set the car side back into the cut you just made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add the spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Move the fence over and you ready for the next cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we start it all over again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The spacer is in there but it's hard to make out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would pay to practice on something just to get the hang of it.
> There are some really cool thing that can be done with this tip.
> Some have covered the out sides of jewelry boxes to get some out standing shapes.
> 
> So here's what I've got to show for my working in the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know why but I just love making things with grooves on them as you all have found out if you've looked at any of my projects.
> 
> It's groovy man Groovy!!!





> ... It keeps us on *track*.
> 
> - Dutchy


*Dutchy*, Was this a little subtle *track*ed earth moving *dig*









or was something lost in the *rolling* Dutch to English *track*solator?


----------



## hunter71

htl said:


> *#2 Cattle car *
> 
> Need some cars for the new wood burner so loved building my last cattle car so here we go again.
> This will be full size like the train plans but this is a scratch build no plans just a couple a picture like last one.
> 
> Started on the base 4 1/2" wide to match the tender by 13" long.
> I really think it would be wider if it was to scale but this will keep it from getting to big for my needs.
> I cut grooves to get the look of planks.
> I used my miter saw and it works ok but is so much easier to cut these on the table saw BUT being so narrow didn't like using the TS.
> 
> How to #1
> 
> Set the saw to cut 1/4" or what looks right.
> Make a mark on the fence to know where to put the wood for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We want it to look something like this when done but being bigger maybe we can add more details we'll see.
> I know many have seen this in one of my how toes but I never really think I did it justice.
> So here's one more try at it.
> You may have guessed but I like the look of these grooves and just like making them. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First we need to glue on the bracing which will be what holds the whole thing together.
> Don't skimp on the glue here this is what holds this altogether!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How to #2
> Now it's time to cut out the slats.
> I wanted just over *1/4" for the slats so cut a spacer board* to match,
> I also used a skill saw 7 1/4 thin kerf blade for the cuts.
> 
> First set the spacer next to the fence and slid it over to the blade this will be your first cut. [top of side]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now set the side back over the blade [saw is stopped] move the fence out add the spacer and then move the fence back over next to the spacer and blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the spacer out and take out the side and get ready for next cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it starts all over again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set the car side back into the cut you just made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add the spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Move the fence over and you ready for the next cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we start it all over again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The spacer is in there but it's hard to make out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would pay to practice on something just to get the hang of it.
> There are some really cool thing that can be done with this tip.
> Some have covered the out sides of jewelry boxes to get some out standing shapes.
> 
> So here's what I've got to show for my working in the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know why but I just love making things with grooves on them as you all have found out if you've looked at any of my projects.
> 
> It's groovy man Groovy!!!


Train is looking great, how many cars?


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *#2 Cattle car *
> 
> Need some cars for the new wood burner so loved building my last cattle car so here we go again.
> This will be full size like the train plans but this is a scratch build no plans just a couple a picture like last one.
> 
> Started on the base 4 1/2" wide to match the tender by 13" long.
> I really think it would be wider if it was to scale but this will keep it from getting to big for my needs.
> I cut grooves to get the look of planks.
> I used my miter saw and it works ok but is so much easier to cut these on the table saw BUT being so narrow didn't like using the TS.
> 
> How to #1
> 
> Set the saw to cut 1/4" or what looks right.
> Make a mark on the fence to know where to put the wood for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We want it to look something like this when done but being bigger maybe we can add more details we'll see.
> I know many have seen this in one of my how toes but I never really think I did it justice.
> So here's one more try at it.
> You may have guessed but I like the look of these grooves and just like making them. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First we need to glue on the bracing which will be what holds the whole thing together.
> Don't skimp on the glue here this is what holds this altogether!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How to #2
> Now it's time to cut out the slats.
> I wanted just over *1/4" for the slats so cut a spacer board* to match,
> I also used a skill saw 7 1/4 thin kerf blade for the cuts.
> 
> First set the spacer next to the fence and slid it over to the blade this will be your first cut. [top of side]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now set the side back over the blade [saw is stopped] move the fence out add the spacer and then move the fence back over next to the spacer and blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the spacer out and take out the side and get ready for next cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it starts all over again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set the car side back into the cut you just made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add the spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Move the fence over and you ready for the next cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we start it all over again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The spacer is in there but it's hard to make out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would pay to practice on something just to get the hang of it.
> There are some really cool thing that can be done with this tip.
> Some have covered the out sides of jewelry boxes to get some out standing shapes.
> 
> So here's what I've got to show for my working in the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know why but I just love making things with grooves on them as you all have found out if you've looked at any of my projects.
> 
> It's groovy man Groovy!!!





> ... It keeps us on *track*.
> 
> - Dutchy
> 
> *Dutchy*, Was this a little subtle *track*ed earth moving *dig*
> 
> or was something lost in the *rolling* Dutch to English *track*solator?
> 
> - LittleBlackDuck


****


----------



## MrRon

htl said:


> *#2 Cattle car *
> 
> Need some cars for the new wood burner so loved building my last cattle car so here we go again.
> This will be full size like the train plans but this is a scratch build no plans just a couple a picture like last one.
> 
> Started on the base 4 1/2" wide to match the tender by 13" long.
> I really think it would be wider if it was to scale but this will keep it from getting to big for my needs.
> I cut grooves to get the look of planks.
> I used my miter saw and it works ok but is so much easier to cut these on the table saw BUT being so narrow didn't like using the TS.
> 
> How to #1
> 
> Set the saw to cut 1/4" or what looks right.
> Make a mark on the fence to know where to put the wood for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We want it to look something like this when done but being bigger maybe we can add more details we'll see.
> I know many have seen this in one of my how toes but I never really think I did it justice.
> So here's one more try at it.
> You may have guessed but I like the look of these grooves and just like making them. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First we need to glue on the bracing which will be what holds the whole thing together.
> Don't skimp on the glue here this is what holds this altogether!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How to #2
> Now it's time to cut out the slats.
> I wanted just over *1/4" for the slats so cut a spacer board* to match,
> I also used a skill saw 7 1/4 thin kerf blade for the cuts.
> 
> First set the spacer next to the fence and slid it over to the blade this will be your first cut. [top of side]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now set the side back over the blade [saw is stopped] move the fence out add the spacer and then move the fence back over next to the spacer and blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the spacer out and take out the side and get ready for next cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it starts all over again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set the car side back into the cut you just made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add the spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Move the fence over and you ready for the next cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we start it all over again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The spacer is in there but it's hard to make out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would pay to practice on something just to get the hang of it.
> There are some really cool thing that can be done with this tip.
> Some have covered the out sides of jewelry boxes to get some out standing shapes.
> 
> So here's what I've got to show for my working in the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know why but I just love making things with grooves on them as you all have found out if you've looked at any of my projects.
> 
> It's groovy man Groovy!!!


Great job. Based on your dimensions of 4-1/2" x 13", I would place the scale at approximately 1/2" to the foot.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *#2 Cattle car *
> 
> Need some cars for the new wood burner so loved building my last cattle car so here we go again.
> This will be full size like the train plans but this is a scratch build no plans just a couple a picture like last one.
> 
> Started on the base 4 1/2" wide to match the tender by 13" long.
> I really think it would be wider if it was to scale but this will keep it from getting to big for my needs.
> I cut grooves to get the look of planks.
> I used my miter saw and it works ok but is so much easier to cut these on the table saw BUT being so narrow didn't like using the TS.
> 
> How to #1
> 
> Set the saw to cut 1/4" or what looks right.
> Make a mark on the fence to know where to put the wood for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We want it to look something like this when done but being bigger maybe we can add more details we'll see.
> I know many have seen this in one of my how toes but I never really think I did it justice.
> So here's one more try at it.
> You may have guessed but I like the look of these grooves and just like making them. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First we need to glue on the bracing which will be what holds the whole thing together.
> Don't skimp on the glue here this is what holds this altogether!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How to #2
> Now it's time to cut out the slats.
> I wanted just over *1/4" for the slats so cut a spacer board* to match,
> I also used a skill saw 7 1/4 thin kerf blade for the cuts.
> 
> First set the spacer next to the fence and slid it over to the blade this will be your first cut. [top of side]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now set the side back over the blade [saw is stopped] move the fence out add the spacer and then move the fence back over next to the spacer and blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the spacer out and take out the side and get ready for next cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it starts all over again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set the car side back into the cut you just made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add the spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Move the fence over and you ready for the next cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we start it all over again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The spacer is in there but it's hard to make out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would pay to practice on something just to get the hang of it.
> There are some really cool thing that can be done with this tip.
> Some have covered the out sides of jewelry boxes to get some out standing shapes.
> 
> So here's what I've got to show for my working in the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know why but I just love making things with grooves on them as you all have found out if you've looked at any of my projects.
> 
> It's groovy man Groovy!!!





> ... It keeps us on *track*.
> 
> - Dutchy
> 
> *Dutchy*, Was this a little subtle *track*ed earth moving *dig*
> 
> or was something lost in the *rolling* Dutch to English *track*solator?
> 
> - LittleBlackDuck
> 
> ****
> 
> - Dutchy


Dutchy if your having trouble with that how are you able to keep up with his long winded silly banter at all. LOL


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *#2 Cattle car *
> 
> Need some cars for the new wood burner so loved building my last cattle car so here we go again.
> This will be full size like the train plans but this is a scratch build no plans just a couple a picture like last one.
> 
> Started on the base 4 1/2" wide to match the tender by 13" long.
> I really think it would be wider if it was to scale but this will keep it from getting to big for my needs.
> I cut grooves to get the look of planks.
> I used my miter saw and it works ok but is so much easier to cut these on the table saw BUT being so narrow didn't like using the TS.
> 
> How to #1
> 
> Set the saw to cut 1/4" or what looks right.
> Make a mark on the fence to know where to put the wood for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We want it to look something like this when done but being bigger maybe we can add more details we'll see.
> I know many have seen this in one of my how toes but I never really think I did it justice.
> So here's one more try at it.
> You may have guessed but I like the look of these grooves and just like making them. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First we need to glue on the bracing which will be what holds the whole thing together.
> Don't skimp on the glue here this is what holds this altogether!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How to #2
> Now it's time to cut out the slats.
> I wanted just over *1/4" for the slats so cut a spacer board* to match,
> I also used a skill saw 7 1/4 thin kerf blade for the cuts.
> 
> First set the spacer next to the fence and slid it over to the blade this will be your first cut. [top of side]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now set the side back over the blade [saw is stopped] move the fence out add the spacer and then move the fence back over next to the spacer and blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the spacer out and take out the side and get ready for next cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it starts all over again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set the car side back into the cut you just made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add the spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Move the fence over and you ready for the next cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we start it all over again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The spacer is in there but it's hard to make out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would pay to practice on something just to get the hang of it.
> There are some really cool thing that can be done with this tip.
> Some have covered the out sides of jewelry boxes to get some out standing shapes.
> 
> So here's what I've got to show for my working in the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know why but I just love making things with grooves on them as you all have found out if you've looked at any of my projects.
> 
> It's groovy man Groovy!!!


Hunter71 We'll see how many the better half lets me get away.
My cabinet shop friend said today he's got a bunch a cherry scraps left over form his last cabinet job so wood wise. I'm set. LOL


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *#2 Cattle car *
> 
> Need some cars for the new wood burner so loved building my last cattle car so here we go again.
> This will be full size like the train plans but this is a scratch build no plans just a couple a picture like last one.
> 
> Started on the base 4 1/2" wide to match the tender by 13" long.
> I really think it would be wider if it was to scale but this will keep it from getting to big for my needs.
> I cut grooves to get the look of planks.
> I used my miter saw and it works ok but is so much easier to cut these on the table saw BUT being so narrow didn't like using the TS.
> 
> How to #1
> 
> Set the saw to cut 1/4" or what looks right.
> Make a mark on the fence to know where to put the wood for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We want it to look something like this when done but being bigger maybe we can add more details we'll see.
> I know many have seen this in one of my how toes but I never really think I did it justice.
> So here's one more try at it.
> You may have guessed but I like the look of these grooves and just like making them. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First we need to glue on the bracing which will be what holds the whole thing together.
> Don't skimp on the glue here this is what holds this altogether!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How to #2
> Now it's time to cut out the slats.
> I wanted just over *1/4" for the slats so cut a spacer board* to match,
> I also used a skill saw 7 1/4 thin kerf blade for the cuts.
> 
> First set the spacer next to the fence and slid it over to the blade this will be your first cut. [top of side]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now set the side back over the blade [saw is stopped] move the fence out add the spacer and then move the fence back over next to the spacer and blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the spacer out and take out the side and get ready for next cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it starts all over again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set the car side back into the cut you just made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add the spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Move the fence over and you ready for the next cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we start it all over again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The spacer is in there but it's hard to make out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would pay to practice on something just to get the hang of it.
> There are some really cool thing that can be done with this tip.
> Some have covered the out sides of jewelry boxes to get some out standing shapes.
> 
> So here's what I've got to show for my working in the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know why but I just love making things with grooves on them as you all have found out if you've looked at any of my projects.
> 
> It's groovy man Groovy!!!


And here's what you get if you turn it and then cut grooves the other way.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *#2 Cattle car *
> 
> Need some cars for the new wood burner so loved building my last cattle car so here we go again.
> This will be full size like the train plans but this is a scratch build no plans just a couple a picture like last one.
> 
> Started on the base 4 1/2" wide to match the tender by 13" long.
> I really think it would be wider if it was to scale but this will keep it from getting to big for my needs.
> I cut grooves to get the look of planks.
> I used my miter saw and it works ok but is so much easier to cut these on the table saw BUT being so narrow didn't like using the TS.
> 
> How to #1
> 
> Set the saw to cut 1/4" or what looks right.
> Make a mark on the fence to know where to put the wood for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We want it to look something like this when done but being bigger maybe we can add more details we'll see.
> I know many have seen this in one of my how toes but I never really think I did it justice.
> So here's one more try at it.
> You may have guessed but I like the look of these grooves and just like making them. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First we need to glue on the bracing which will be what holds the whole thing together.
> Don't skimp on the glue here this is what holds this altogether!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How to #2
> Now it's time to cut out the slats.
> I wanted just over *1/4" for the slats so cut a spacer board* to match,
> I also used a skill saw 7 1/4 thin kerf blade for the cuts.
> 
> First set the spacer next to the fence and slid it over to the blade this will be your first cut. [top of side]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now set the side back over the blade [saw is stopped] move the fence out add the spacer and then move the fence back over next to the spacer and blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the spacer out and take out the side and get ready for next cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it starts all over again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set the car side back into the cut you just made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add the spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Move the fence over and you ready for the next cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we start it all over again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The spacer is in there but it's hard to make out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would pay to practice on something just to get the hang of it.
> There are some really cool thing that can be done with this tip.
> Some have covered the out sides of jewelry boxes to get some out standing shapes.
> 
> So here's what I've got to show for my working in the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know why but I just love making things with grooves on them as you all have found out if you've looked at any of my projects.
> 
> It's groovy man Groovy!!!





> And here s what you get if you turn it and then cut grooves the other way.
> 
> - htl


But, how do you make chess pieced small enough?

Nevertheless, an impressive result.


----------



## Belg1960

htl said:


> *#2 Cattle car *
> 
> Need some cars for the new wood burner so loved building my last cattle car so here we go again.
> This will be full size like the train plans but this is a scratch build no plans just a couple a picture like last one.
> 
> Started on the base 4 1/2" wide to match the tender by 13" long.
> I really think it would be wider if it was to scale but this will keep it from getting to big for my needs.
> I cut grooves to get the look of planks.
> I used my miter saw and it works ok but is so much easier to cut these on the table saw BUT being so narrow didn't like using the TS.
> 
> How to #1
> 
> Set the saw to cut 1/4" or what looks right.
> Make a mark on the fence to know where to put the wood for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We want it to look something like this when done but being bigger maybe we can add more details we'll see.
> I know many have seen this in one of my how toes but I never really think I did it justice.
> So here's one more try at it.
> You may have guessed but I like the look of these grooves and just like making them. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First we need to glue on the bracing which will be what holds the whole thing together.
> Don't skimp on the glue here this is what holds this altogether!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How to #2
> Now it's time to cut out the slats.
> I wanted just over *1/4" for the slats so cut a spacer board* to match,
> I also used a skill saw 7 1/4 thin kerf blade for the cuts.
> 
> First set the spacer next to the fence and slid it over to the blade this will be your first cut. [top of side]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now set the side back over the blade [saw is stopped] move the fence out add the spacer and then move the fence back over next to the spacer and blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the spacer out and take out the side and get ready for next cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it starts all over again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set the car side back into the cut you just made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add the spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Move the fence over and you ready for the next cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we start it all over again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The spacer is in there but it's hard to make out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would pay to practice on something just to get the hang of it.
> There are some really cool thing that can be done with this tip.
> Some have covered the out sides of jewelry boxes to get some out standing shapes.
> 
> So here's what I've got to show for my working in the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know why but I just love making things with grooves on them as you all have found out if you've looked at any of my projects.
> 
> It's groovy man Groovy!!!


As a model RR I love this. Will be reading the rest of your blog as well. Did you do a build blog for the train? Link please. Pat


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *#2 Cattle car *
> 
> Need some cars for the new wood burner so loved building my last cattle car so here we go again.
> This will be full size like the train plans but this is a scratch build no plans just a couple a picture like last one.
> 
> Started on the base 4 1/2" wide to match the tender by 13" long.
> I really think it would be wider if it was to scale but this will keep it from getting to big for my needs.
> I cut grooves to get the look of planks.
> I used my miter saw and it works ok but is so much easier to cut these on the table saw BUT being so narrow didn't like using the TS.
> 
> How to #1
> 
> Set the saw to cut 1/4" or what looks right.
> Make a mark on the fence to know where to put the wood for each cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We want it to look something like this when done but being bigger maybe we can add more details we'll see.
> I know many have seen this in one of my how toes but I never really think I did it justice.
> So here's one more try at it.
> You may have guessed but I like the look of these grooves and just like making them. LOL
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> First we need to glue on the bracing which will be what holds the whole thing together.
> Don't skimp on the glue here this is what holds this altogether!!!
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> Now it's time to cut out the slats.
> I wanted just over *1/4" for the slats so cut a spacer board* to match,
> I also used a skill saw 7 1/4 thin kerf blade for the cuts.
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> First set the spacer next to the fence and slid it over to the blade this will be your first cut. [top of side]
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> It would pay to practice on something just to get the hang of it.
> There are some really cool thing that can be done with this tip.
> Some have covered the out sides of jewelry boxes to get some out standing shapes.
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> I don't know why but I just love making things with grooves on them as you all have found out if you've looked at any of my projects.
> 
> It's groovy man Groovy!!!


You need to check my blog section for a bunch a different train cars and many other builds.


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## htl

*#2 Cattle car Adding the small parts #2*

Now that I've got the main body parts made, or remade in the case of the ends. [had the grain running the wrong way.
So need the guide for the sliding doors and all the other doodads.



























Had some fun making the top.













































Next up I need to build the doors and I took the trucks off the train to have a look at it all together.




































Here's what the ends look like if turned and cut on the table saw, there's many places where this would look great.


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *#2 Cattle car Adding the small parts #2*
> 
> Now that I've got the main body parts made, or remade in the case of the ends. [had the grain running the wrong way.
> So need the guide for the sliding doors and all the other doodads.
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> Here's what the ends look like if turned and cut on the table saw, there's many places where this would look great.


*So nice. *


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## crowie

htl said:


> *#2 Cattle car Adding the small parts #2*
> 
> Now that I've got the main body parts made, or remade in the case of the ends. [had the grain running the wrong way.
> So need the guide for the sliding doors and all the other doodads.
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> Here's what the ends look like if turned and cut on the table saw, there's many places where this would look great.


Must agree with Dutchy, Bruce, top job sir!!


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *#2 Cattle car Adding the small parts #2*
> 
> Now that I've got the main body parts made, or remade in the case of the ends. [had the grain running the wrong way.
> So need the guide for the sliding doors and all the other doodads.
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> Here's what the ends look like if turned and cut on the table saw, there's many places where this would look great.





> ... So need the guide for the sliding doors and all the other *doodads*.
> 
> - htl


Great job, however, here in Australia we have another name for *doodads*…. its *tracks*!


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *#2 Cattle car Adding the small parts #2*
> 
> Now that I've got the main body parts made, or remade in the case of the ends. [had the grain running the wrong way.
> So need the guide for the sliding doors and all the other doodads.
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> Next up I need to build the doors and I took the trucks off the train to have a look at it all together.
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> Here's what the ends look like if turned and cut on the table saw, there's many places where this would look great.


Good work!


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## Dautterguy

htl said:


> *#2 Cattle car Adding the small parts #2*
> 
> Now that I've got the main body parts made, or remade in the case of the ends. [had the grain running the wrong way.
> So need the guide for the sliding doors and all the other doodads.
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> Had some fun making the top.
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> Here's what the ends look like if turned and cut on the table saw, there's many places where this would look great.


I have come in late on all the construction of your items. I cannot find any reference to the type of wood you are using. Looks like Poplar to me. Was this a good guess? I to make trains, but not to the quality of yours, maybe someday? Thanks, Marty


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## htl

htl said:


> *#2 Cattle car Adding the small parts #2*
> 
> Now that I've got the main body parts made, or remade in the case of the ends. [had the grain running the wrong way.
> So need the guide for the sliding doors and all the other doodads.
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> Here's what the ends look like if turned and cut on the table saw, there's many places where this would look great.


It's poplar and cherry and the trucks [wheels] are oak.
I much prefer to use oak as my main wood then walnut for accents but having a friend with a cabinet shop that gives me the scraps, I'm using poplar and cherry.
Right now he's doing a lot of painted cabinets and poplar paints well so poplar it is.


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## MrRon

htl said:


> *#2 Cattle car Adding the small parts #2*
> 
> Now that I've got the main body parts made, or remade in the case of the ends. [had the grain running the wrong way.
> So need the guide for the sliding doors and all the other doodads.
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> Here's what the ends look like if turned and cut on the table saw, there's many places where this would look great.


Is that Gorilla glue you are using?


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## htl

htl said:


> *#2 Cattle car Adding the small parts #2*
> 
> Now that I've got the main body parts made, or remade in the case of the ends. [had the grain running the wrong way.
> So need the guide for the sliding doors and all the other doodads.
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> Here's what the ends look like if turned and cut on the table saw, there's many places where this would look great.


Yep Got to love the quick acting stuff, gorilla super glue in the blue top.
If I need extra strength I'll use some wood glue then add a little super glue to the edges to hold till the glue dries.
I don't like waiting for glue to dry when building models.


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## htl

*#2 Cattle car Sliding door build #3*

Here's the project post.

Need to finish it up and make the sliding doors.

















































































From looking at the finished pictures I may go back and sand the doors down they seem to be a little thick.
And may even split them to make two smaller doors would look much better.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *#2 Cattle car Sliding door build #3*
> 
> Here's the project post.
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> Need to finish it up and make the sliding doors.
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> From looking at the finished pictures I may go back and sand the doors down they seem to be a little thick.
> And may even split them to make two smaller doors would look much better.


loving this rail car Bruce ….GREAT JOB :<))


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *#2 Cattle car Sliding door build #3*
> 
> Here's the project post.
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> Need to finish it up and make the sliding doors.
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> From looking at the finished pictures I may go back and sand the doors down they seem to be a little thick.
> And may even split them to make two smaller doors would look much better.


Looks absolutely great with your kerfing!

Had me a bit worried at first. Was wondering how the cows could see through the doors (I care about animals' feelings), 








but then you redeemed yourself and even suggested the luxury of two doors… wow!


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## crowie

htl said:


> *#2 Cattle car Sliding door build #3*
> 
> Here's the project post.
> 
> Need to finish it up and make the sliding doors.
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> From looking at the finished pictures I may go back and sand the doors down they seem to be a little thick.
> And may even split them to make two smaller doors would look much better.


Very professionally done Bruce!


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## htl

htl said:


> *#2 Cattle car Sliding door build #3*
> 
> Here's the project post.
> 
> Need to finish it up and make the sliding doors.
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> From looking at the finished pictures I may go back and sand the doors down they seem to be a little thick.
> And may even split them to make two smaller doors would look much better.


Crowie I just do this for me so no pro here. LOL


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## htl

*Caboose----mail car*

Getting started on the next car for my train set.
It will be a caboose - mail car.
It will be something like this.









I got started on the base and sides today.
It will be made out of green poplar with cherry ascents.
It is a scratch build and will be full size in line with toys and joys train plans.
The picture I found on a google caboose search came up with this and the third picture bellow show what I'm using to build this car.
I printed out the picture and then had to enlarge it to get the wheels to 1 1/2" once I had this all other measurements can be taken off the new picture.
Here's what got done today.
I was thinking I had some beginning pictures but???
And as you can tell I'm back making some groovy parts. :-]


















As you can see in this picture all measurements can be taken straight from the picture, there's no needing to divide any thing it's already done for you.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Caboose----mail car*
> 
> Getting started on the next car for my train set.
> It will be a caboose - mail car.
> It will be something like this.
> 
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> 
> I got started on the base and sides today.
> It will be made out of green poplar with cherry ascents.
> It is a scratch build and will be full size in line with toys and joys train plans.
> The picture I found on a google caboose search came up with this and the third picture bellow show what I'm using to build this car.
> I printed out the picture and then had to enlarge it to get the wheels to 1 1/2" once I had this all other measurements can be taken off the new picture.
> Here's what got done today.
> I was thinking I had some beginning pictures but???
> And as you can tell I'm back making some groovy parts. :-]
> 
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> As you can see in this picture all measurements can be taken straight from the picture, there's no needing to divide any thing it's already done for you.


grooves don't match first picture …..but it looks good either way …... VERY NICE :<))


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## htl

htl said:


> *Caboose----mail car*
> 
> Getting started on the next car for my train set.
> It will be a caboose - mail car.
> It will be something like this.
> 
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> 
> I got started on the base and sides today.
> It will be made out of green poplar with cherry ascents.
> It is a scratch build and will be full size in line with toys and joys train plans.
> The picture I found on a google caboose search came up with this and the third picture bellow show what I'm using to build this car.
> I printed out the picture and then had to enlarge it to get the wheels to 1 1/2" once I had this all other measurements can be taken off the new picture.
> Here's what got done today.
> I was thinking I had some beginning pictures but???
> And as you can tell I'm back making some groovy parts. :-]
> 
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> As you can see in this picture all measurements can be taken straight from the picture, there's no needing to divide any thing it's already done for you.


Gr8 Well I'll be!!!! lol
Didn't want to go to the trouble of cutting and gluing wood to get the grain going in the right direction, so one of my many changes before this is done.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Caboose----mail car*
> 
> Getting started on the next car for my train set.
> It will be a caboose - mail car.
> It will be something like this.
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> 
> I got started on the base and sides today.
> It will be made out of green poplar with cherry ascents.
> It is a scratch build and will be full size in line with toys and joys train plans.
> The picture I found on a google caboose search came up with this and the third picture bellow show what I'm using to build this car.
> I printed out the picture and then had to enlarge it to get the wheels to 1 1/2" once I had this all other measurements can be taken off the new picture.
> Here's what got done today.
> I was thinking I had some beginning pictures but???
> And as you can tell I'm back making some groovy parts. :-]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see in this picture all measurements can be taken straight from the picture, there's no needing to divide any thing it's already done for you.


You certainly don't let *moss* grow under your tracks *#4*...

One of the affiliates for the *Prevention of Cruelty to Moss *will be visiting you soon.

Great job/progress and if you hadn't posted the picture we'd be none the wiser. Just work quick before the *Moss* people have you committed!


----------



## oldnovice

htl said:


> *Caboose----mail car*
> 
> Getting started on the next car for my train set.
> It will be a caboose - mail car.
> It will be something like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got started on the base and sides today.
> It will be made out of green poplar with cherry ascents.
> It is a scratch build and will be full size in line with toys and joys train plans.
> The picture I found on a google caboose search came up with this and the third picture bellow show what I'm using to build this car.
> I printed out the picture and then had to enlarge it to get the wheels to 1 1/2" once I had this all other measurements can be taken off the new picture.
> Here's what got done today.
> I was thinking I had some beginning pictures but???
> And as you can tell I'm back making some groovy parts. :-]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see in this picture all measurements can be taken straight from the picture, there's no needing to divide any thing it's already done for you.


Based on ypur previous work, that is going to be beautiful when you get done!


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Caboose----mail car*
> 
> Getting started on the next car for my train set.
> It will be a caboose - mail car.
> It will be something like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got started on the base and sides today.
> It will be made out of green poplar with cherry ascents.
> It is a scratch build and will be full size in line with toys and joys train plans.
> The picture I found on a google caboose search came up with this and the third picture bellow show what I'm using to build this car.
> I printed out the picture and then had to enlarge it to get the wheels to 1 1/2" once I had this all other measurements can be taken off the new picture.
> Here's what got done today.
> I was thinking I had some beginning pictures but???
> And as you can tell I'm back making some groovy parts. :-]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see in this picture all measurements can be taken straight from the picture, there's no needing to divide any thing it's already done for you.


Getting started is a huge understatement….


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Caboose----mail car*
> 
> Getting started on the next car for my train set.
> It will be a caboose - mail car.
> It will be something like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got started on the base and sides today.
> It will be made out of green poplar with cherry ascents.
> It is a scratch build and will be full size in line with toys and joys train plans.
> The picture I found on a google caboose search came up with this and the third picture bellow show what I'm using to build this car.
> I printed out the picture and then had to enlarge it to get the wheels to 1 1/2" once I had this all other measurements can be taken off the new picture.
> Here's what got done today.
> I was thinking I had some beginning pictures but???
> And as you can tell I'm back making some groovy parts. :-]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see in this picture all measurements can be taken straight from the picture, there's no needing to divide any thing it's already done for you.





> Getting started is a huge understatement….
> 
> - crowie


Sorry *crowie*, I must disagree when it comes to *#4*. He seems to finish before you can click on the "*page forward*" button. The lad is a machine… that cant build *tracks*....

Oops… I promised myself not to mention *tracks *again! C'mon guys… you all know I'm a liar and if you don't then rest assured I am…!


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Caboose----mail car*
> 
> Getting started on the next car for my train set.
> It will be a caboose - mail car.
> It will be something like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got started on the base and sides today.
> It will be made out of green poplar with cherry ascents.
> It is a scratch build and will be full size in line with toys and joys train plans.
> The picture I found on a google caboose search came up with this and the third picture bellow show what I'm using to build this car.
> I printed out the picture and then had to enlarge it to get the wheels to 1 1/2" once I had this all other measurements can be taken off the new picture.
> Here's what got done today.
> I was thinking I had some beginning pictures but???
> And as you can tell I'm back making some groovy parts. :-]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see in this picture all measurements can be taken straight from the picture, there's no needing to divide any thing it's already done for you.


That groovy parts! So nice. How thin are they?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

htl said:


> *Caboose----mail car*
> 
> Getting started on the next car for my train set.
> It will be a caboose - mail car.
> It will be something like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got started on the base and sides today.
> It will be made out of green poplar with cherry ascents.
> It is a scratch build and will be full size in line with toys and joys train plans.
> The picture I found on a google caboose search came up with this and the third picture bellow show what I'm using to build this car.
> I printed out the picture and then had to enlarge it to get the wheels to 1 1/2" once I had this all other measurements can be taken off the new picture.
> Here's what got done today.
> I was thinking I had some beginning pictures but???
> And as you can tell I'm back making some groovy parts. :-]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see in this picture all measurements can be taken straight from the picture, there's no needing to divide any thing it's already done for you.


Love the look you're going for, a great start. Fun to watch you work, thanks for blogging!


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Caboose----mail car*
> 
> Getting started on the next car for my train set.
> It will be a caboose - mail car.
> It will be something like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got started on the base and sides today.
> It will be made out of green poplar with cherry ascents.
> It is a scratch build and will be full size in line with toys and joys train plans.
> The picture I found on a google caboose search came up with this and the third picture bellow show what I'm using to build this car.
> I printed out the picture and then had to enlarge it to get the wheels to 1 1/2" once I had this all other measurements can be taken off the new picture.
> Here's what got done today.
> I was thinking I had some beginning pictures but???
> And as you can tell I'm back making some groovy parts. :-]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see in this picture all measurements can be taken straight from the picture, there's no needing to divide any thing it's already done for you.


Very Nice!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Caboose----mail car*
> 
> Getting started on the next car for my train set.
> It will be a caboose - mail car.
> It will be something like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got started on the base and sides today.
> It will be made out of green poplar with cherry ascents.
> It is a scratch build and will be full size in line with toys and joys train plans.
> The picture I found on a google caboose search came up with this and the third picture bellow show what I'm using to build this car.
> I printed out the picture and then had to enlarge it to get the wheels to 1 1/2" once I had this all other measurements can be taken off the new picture.
> Here's what got done today.
> I was thinking I had some beginning pictures but???
> And as you can tell I'm back making some groovy parts. :-]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see in this picture all measurements can be taken straight from the picture, there's no needing to divide any thing it's already done for you.


Dutchy This is a full size model so I went with just under 3/8" helps with any worpage but even when I use 1/4" I've had no problems.
You need to remember this is store bought cabinet grade lumber.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Caboose----mail car*
> 
> Getting started on the next car for my train set.
> It will be a caboose - mail car.
> It will be something like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got started on the base and sides today.
> It will be made out of green poplar with cherry ascents.
> It is a scratch build and will be full size in line with toys and joys train plans.
> The picture I found on a google caboose search came up with this and the third picture bellow show what I'm using to build this car.
> I printed out the picture and then had to enlarge it to get the wheels to 1 1/2" once I had this all other measurements can be taken off the new picture.
> Here's what got done today.
> I was thinking I had some beginning pictures but???
> And as you can tell I'm back making some groovy parts. :-]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see in this picture all measurements can be taken straight from the picture, there's no needing to divide any thing it's already done for you.


just joking you Bruce ….it will look real nice once it is sitting with that beautiful Loco …..*ON TRACKS* LOL ....sorry couldn't resist it …...GREAT JOB :<))


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Caboose----mail car*
> 
> Getting started on the next car for my train set.
> It will be a caboose - mail car.
> It will be something like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got started on the base and sides today.
> It will be made out of green poplar with cherry ascents.
> It is a scratch build and will be full size in line with toys and joys train plans.
> The picture I found on a google caboose search came up with this and the third picture bellow show what I'm using to build this car.
> I printed out the picture and then had to enlarge it to get the wheels to 1 1/2" once I had this all other measurements can be taken off the new picture.
> Here's what got done today.
> I was thinking I had some beginning pictures but???
> And as you can tell I'm back making some groovy parts. :-]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see in this picture all measurements can be taken straight from the picture, there's no needing to divide any thing it's already done for you.


"ON TRACKS LOL" 
GR8,7,6,5,4,3,2, your almost a 1 with that last comment!!!


----------



## htl

*Caboose #2*

Started putting things together.


























Using super glue I don't use bar clamps much but when I got to this point I knew I wouldn't be able to keep it all in place till it was all glued up so used slower drying wood glue and bar clamps to get it all together.



































I hadn't planned to do much with the inside but once I got started just couldn't leave it alone..









I wonder where all those cushions came from Ducky?








One door will be closed and one open.


















I just had to see what it would look like with some wheels, the poor tender may never get his wheels back.
I'll have to get into wheel mod but not yet. lol


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Caboose #2*
> 
> Started putting things together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using super glue I don't use bar clamps much but when I got to this point I knew I wouldn't be able to keep it all in place till it was all glued up so used slower drying wood glue and bar clamps to get it all together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hadn't planned to do much with the inside but once I got started just couldn't leave it alone..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder where all those cushions came from Ducky?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One door will be closed and one open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just had to see what it would look like with some wheels, the poor tender may never get his wheels back.
> I'll have to get into wheel mod but not yet. lol


That looks good #4. I take back my comment about "green" wood (don't know what I was thinking).


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Caboose #2*
> 
> Started putting things together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using super glue I don't use bar clamps much but when I got to this point I knew I wouldn't be able to keep it all in place till it was all glued up so used slower drying wood glue and bar clamps to get it all together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hadn't planned to do much with the inside but once I got started just couldn't leave it alone..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder where all those cushions came from Ducky?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One door will be closed and one open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just had to see what it would look like with some wheels, the poor tender may never get his wheels back.
> I'll have to get into wheel mod but not yet. lol


It's really more a hint of green, so should fit in nicely with my other models.

Now will start the hard part, at least it was last time trying to get the roof to look right.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Caboose #2*
> 
> Started putting things together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using super glue I don't use bar clamps much but when I got to this point I knew I wouldn't be able to keep it all in place till it was all glued up so used slower drying wood glue and bar clamps to get it all together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hadn't planned to do much with the inside but once I got started just couldn't leave it alone..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder where all those cushions came from Ducky?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One door will be closed and one open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just had to see what it would look like with some wheels, the poor tender may never get his wheels back.
> I'll have to get into wheel mod but not yet. lol


your way to fast for me to even watch your post Bruce …...LMAO :<)) IM loving this rail car ….GREAT JOB :<))


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Caboose #2*
> 
> Started putting things together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using super glue I don't use bar clamps much but when I got to this point I knew I wouldn't be able to keep it all in place till it was all glued up so used slower drying wood glue and bar clamps to get it all together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hadn't planned to do much with the inside but once I got started just couldn't leave it alone..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder where all those cushions came from Ducky?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One door will be closed and one open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just had to see what it would look like with some wheels, the poor tender may never get his wheels back.
> I'll have to get into wheel mod but not yet. lol


I say it again: So nice.

One point of "criticism" I don't like the groves in the furniture. I writing this because I want to be honest, and not rude.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Caboose #2*
> 
> Started putting things together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using super glue I don't use bar clamps much but when I got to this point I knew I wouldn't be able to keep it all in place till it was all glued up so used slower drying wood glue and bar clamps to get it all together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hadn't planned to do much with the inside but once I got started just couldn't leave it alone..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder where all those cushions came from Ducky?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One door will be closed and one open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just had to see what it would look like with some wheels, the poor tender may never get his wheels back.
> I'll have to get into wheel mod but not yet. lol


This caboose is going to be finished and rolling down the tracks in no time…well done Bruce!


----------



## bj383ss

htl said:


> *Caboose #2*
> 
> Started putting things together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using super glue I don't use bar clamps much but when I got to this point I knew I wouldn't be able to keep it all in place till it was all glued up so used slower drying wood glue and bar clamps to get it all together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hadn't planned to do much with the inside but once I got started just couldn't leave it alone..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder where all those cushions came from Ducky?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One door will be closed and one open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just had to see what it would look like with some wheels, the poor tender may never get his wheels back.
> I'll have to get into wheel mod but not yet. lol


Looks awesome Bruce. I need to make one to go with my train some day when I don't have any projects going on.(yeah right when will that be).

Bret


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Caboose #2*
> 
> Started putting things together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using super glue I don't use bar clamps much but when I got to this point I knew I wouldn't be able to keep it all in place till it was all glued up so used slower drying wood glue and bar clamps to get it all together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hadn't planned to do much with the inside but once I got started just couldn't leave it alone..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder where all those cushions came from Ducky?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One door will be closed and one open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just had to see what it would look like with some wheels, the poor tender may never get his wheels back.
> I'll have to get into wheel mod but not yet. lol


Dutchy once the roofs on you can hardly see any thing inside so it helps to add a little texture when looking in the windows..
On my last caboose all the cushions were two tone but hey everyone likes something different.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Caboose #2*
> 
> Started putting things together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using super glue I don't use bar clamps much but when I got to this point I knew I wouldn't be able to keep it all in place till it was all glued up so used slower drying wood glue and bar clamps to get it all together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hadn't planned to do much with the inside but once I got started just couldn't leave it alone..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder where all those cushions came from Ducky?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One door will be closed and one open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just had to see what it would look like with some wheels, the poor tender may never get his wheels back.
> I'll have to get into wheel mod but not yet. lol


I just wanted to mention that it is now May 2021 and the green car is a nice brown color all the green has faded way.
So *be careful thinking to using green poplar* in a build, [green army jeeps] come to mind.


----------



## htl

*Caboose----mail car Roof building #3.5*

I know there are other things I need to build but the roof is the one thing that gave me trouble last time so wanted to get ahead of it.
I used my 10" saw blade as the pattern for the roof curve.

















































































Now I need a roof for the look out or what ever they call it, crows nest?









I made this by clamping a stop to the table saw and raising the blade into the wood.
I cranked it all the way down then would raise it 7 turns to get my height.


















Then band saw the top and disk sand it into shape and we have a roof.
I super glued a squared 2×4 to the roof to help it stay lined up for sawing and sanding.



























I need a couple wheel pictures. lol


















Here's a can to see how big it will be.









Now I can have some peace of mind knowing I got the roofs figured out.


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Caboose----mail car Roof building #3.5*
> 
> I know there are other things I need to build but the roof is the one thing that gave me trouble last time so wanted to get ahead of it.
> I used my 10" saw blade as the pattern for the roof curve.
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> Now I need a roof for the look out or what ever they call it, crows nest?
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> 
> I made this by clamping a stop to the table saw and raising the blade into the wood.
> I cranked it all the way down then would raise it 7 turns to get my height.
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> Then band saw the top and disk sand it into shape and we have a roof.
> I super glued a squared 2×4 to the roof to help it stay lined up for sawing and sanding.
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> I need a couple wheel pictures. lol
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> Here's a can to see how big it will be.
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> Now I can have some peace of mind knowing I got the roofs figured out.


Man what a great looking Caboose!


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Caboose----mail car Roof building #3.5*
> 
> I know there are other things I need to build but the roof is the one thing that gave me trouble last time so wanted to get ahead of it.
> I used my 10" saw blade as the pattern for the roof curve.
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> Now I need a roof for the look out or what ever they call it, crows nest?
> 
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> 
> I made this by clamping a stop to the table saw and raising the blade into the wood.
> I cranked it all the way down then would raise it 7 turns to get my height.
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> Then band saw the top and disk sand it into shape and we have a roof.
> I super glued a squared 2×4 to the roof to help it stay lined up for sawing and sanding.
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> I need a couple wheel pictures. lol
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> Here's a can to see how big it will be.
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> Now I can have some peace of mind knowing I got the roofs figured out.


WOW …..... the roof really sets it off …GREAT JOB :<))


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## RonAylor1760

htl said:


> *Caboose----mail car Roof building #3.5*
> 
> I know there are other things I need to build but the roof is the one thing that gave me trouble last time so wanted to get ahead of it.
> I used my 10" saw blade as the pattern for the roof curve.
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> Now I need a roof for the look out or what ever they call it, crows nest?
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> I made this by clamping a stop to the table saw and raising the blade into the wood.
> I cranked it all the way down then would raise it 7 turns to get my height.
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> Then band saw the top and disk sand it into shape and we have a roof.
> I super glued a squared 2×4 to the roof to help it stay lined up for sawing and sanding.
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> I need a couple wheel pictures. lol
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> Here's a can to see how big it will be.
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> Now I can have some peace of mind knowing I got the roofs figured out.


Nice work … great detail. Pardon my ignorance, but may I assume it will be painted?


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Caboose----mail car Roof building #3.5*
> 
> I know there are other things I need to build but the roof is the one thing that gave me trouble last time so wanted to get ahead of it.
> I used my 10" saw blade as the pattern for the roof curve.
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> 
> Now I need a roof for the look out or what ever they call it, crows nest?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made this by clamping a stop to the table saw and raising the blade into the wood.
> I cranked it all the way down then would raise it 7 turns to get my height.
> 
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> Then band saw the top and disk sand it into shape and we have a roof.
> I super glued a squared 2×4 to the roof to help it stay lined up for sawing and sanding.
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> I need a couple wheel pictures. lol
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> Here's a can to see how big it will be.
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> Now I can have some peace of mind knowing I got the roofs figured out.


You're a worry wart *#4*, the roof turned out perfect.


> Here s a beer can, rood beer that is to see how big it will be.
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> - htl


Where'd you get the 20' tall can? I only thought big things came from Texas!


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## htl

htl said:


> *Caboose----mail car Roof building #3.5*
> 
> I know there are other things I need to build but the roof is the one thing that gave me trouble last time so wanted to get ahead of it.
> I used my 10" saw blade as the pattern for the roof curve.
> 
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> 
> Now I need a roof for the look out or what ever they call it, crows nest?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made this by clamping a stop to the table saw and raising the blade into the wood.
> I cranked it all the way down then would raise it 7 turns to get my height.
> 
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> 
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> 
> Then band saw the top and disk sand it into shape and we have a roof.
> I super glued a squared 2×4 to the roof to help it stay lined up for sawing and sanding.
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> I need a couple wheel pictures. lol
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> Here's a can to see how big it will be.
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> Now I can have some peace of mind knowing I got the roofs figured out.


Ron there will be Minwax Danish natural oil finish on it to match the train and cattle car.

I would love to use the Minwax Danish oil in dark walnut but afraid the poplar would blotch all over the place but the natural will make it pop just fine.

And thanks all for checking out the build and commenting..


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

htl said:


> *Caboose----mail car Roof building #3.5*
> 
> I know there are other things I need to build but the roof is the one thing that gave me trouble last time so wanted to get ahead of it.
> I used my 10" saw blade as the pattern for the roof curve.
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> Now I need a roof for the look out or what ever they call it, crows nest?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made this by clamping a stop to the table saw and raising the blade into the wood.
> I cranked it all the way down then would raise it 7 turns to get my height.
> 
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> 
> Then band saw the top and disk sand it into shape and we have a roof.
> I super glued a squared 2×4 to the roof to help it stay lined up for sawing and sanding.
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> I need a couple wheel pictures. lol
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> Here's a can to see how big it will be.
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> Now I can have some peace of mind knowing I got the roofs figured out.


Wow, just like that. You make it look easy, and it certainly isn't easy. Great job with that roof!


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Caboose----mail car Roof building #3.5*
> 
> I know there are other things I need to build but the roof is the one thing that gave me trouble last time so wanted to get ahead of it.
> I used my 10" saw blade as the pattern for the roof curve.
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> Now I need a roof for the look out or what ever they call it, crows nest?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made this by clamping a stop to the table saw and raising the blade into the wood.
> I cranked it all the way down then would raise it 7 turns to get my height.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> Then band saw the top and disk sand it into shape and we have a roof.
> I super glued a squared 2×4 to the roof to help it stay lined up for sawing and sanding.
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> I need a couple wheel pictures. lol
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> Here's a can to see how big it will be.
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> Now I can have some peace of mind knowing I got the roofs figured out.


looking good!


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Caboose----mail car Roof building #3.5*
> 
> I know there are other things I need to build but the roof is the one thing that gave me trouble last time so wanted to get ahead of it.
> I used my 10" saw blade as the pattern for the roof curve.
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> Now I need a roof for the look out or what ever they call it, crows nest?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made this by clamping a stop to the table saw and raising the blade into the wood.
> I cranked it all the way down then would raise it 7 turns to get my height.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> Then band saw the top and disk sand it into shape and we have a roof.
> I super glued a squared 2×4 to the roof to help it stay lined up for sawing and sanding.
> 
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> I need a couple wheel pictures. lol
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> Here's a can to see how big it will be.
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> Now I can have some peace of mind knowing I got the roofs figured out.


Every time he is getting nicer and nicer. Great colors!!


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## bruce317

htl said:


> *Caboose----mail car Roof building #3.5*
> 
> I know there are other things I need to build but the roof is the one thing that gave me trouble last time so wanted to get ahead of it.
> I used my 10" saw blade as the pattern for the roof curve.
> 
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> Now I need a roof for the look out or what ever they call it, crows nest?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made this by clamping a stop to the table saw and raising the blade into the wood.
> I cranked it all the way down then would raise it 7 turns to get my height.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Then band saw the top and disk sand it into shape and we have a roof.
> I super glued a squared 2×4 to the roof to help it stay lined up for sawing and sanding.
> 
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> I need a couple wheel pictures. lol
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> Here's a can to see how big it will be.
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> Now I can have some peace of mind knowing I got the roofs figured out.


I built a lot of La Belle woodworking model railroading passenger kits. In my opinion you nailed the roof.


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## helluvawreck

htl said:


> *Caboose----mail car Roof building #3.5*
> 
> I know there are other things I need to build but the roof is the one thing that gave me trouble last time so wanted to get ahead of it.
> I used my 10" saw blade as the pattern for the roof curve.
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> Now I need a roof for the look out or what ever they call it, crows nest?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made this by clamping a stop to the table saw and raising the blade into the wood.
> I cranked it all the way down then would raise it 7 turns to get my height.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Then band saw the top and disk sand it into shape and we have a roof.
> I super glued a squared 2×4 to the roof to help it stay lined up for sawing and sanding.
> 
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> I need a couple wheel pictures. lol
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> Here's a can to see how big it will be.
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> Now I can have some peace of mind knowing I got the roofs figured out.


This is a very nice model caboose and it displays a lot of nice details and craftsmanship.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


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## htl

htl said:


> *Caboose----mail car Roof building #3.5*
> 
> I know there are other things I need to build but the roof is the one thing that gave me trouble last time so wanted to get ahead of it.
> I used my 10" saw blade as the pattern for the roof curve.
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> 
> Now I need a roof for the look out or what ever they call it, crows nest?
> 
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> 
> I made this by clamping a stop to the table saw and raising the blade into the wood.
> I cranked it all the way down then would raise it 7 turns to get my height.
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> Then band saw the top and disk sand it into shape and we have a roof.
> I super glued a squared 2×4 to the roof to help it stay lined up for sawing and sanding.
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> I need a couple wheel pictures. lol
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> Here's a can to see how big it will be.
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> Now I can have some peace of mind knowing I got the roofs figured out.


Thanks Bruce #3
I never was totally happy with my first car roof like this but going larger really helps get the feel for it.
La Belle kits look very interesting!
Again *thanks all* for checking it out.


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## johnstoneb

htl said:


> *Caboose----mail car Roof building #3.5*
> 
> I know there are other things I need to build but the roof is the one thing that gave me trouble last time so wanted to get ahead of it.
> I used my 10" saw blade as the pattern for the roof curve.
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> 
> Now I need a roof for the look out or what ever they call it, crows nest?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made this by clamping a stop to the table saw and raising the blade into the wood.
> I cranked it all the way down then would raise it 7 turns to get my height.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then band saw the top and disk sand it into shape and we have a roof.
> I super glued a squared 2×4 to the roof to help it stay lined up for sawing and sanding.
> 
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> I need a couple wheel pictures. lol
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> Here's a can to see how big it will be.
> 
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> Now I can have some peace of mind knowing I got the roofs figured out.


You just keep getting better and better. Great looking caboos.


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## sras

htl said:


> *Caboose----mail car Roof building #3.5*
> 
> I know there are other things I need to build but the roof is the one thing that gave me trouble last time so wanted to get ahead of it.
> I used my 10" saw blade as the pattern for the roof curve.
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> 
> 
> 
> Now I need a roof for the look out or what ever they call it, crows nest?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made this by clamping a stop to the table saw and raising the blade into the wood.
> I cranked it all the way down then would raise it 7 turns to get my height.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then band saw the top and disk sand it into shape and we have a roof.
> I super glued a squared 2×4 to the roof to help it stay lined up for sawing and sanding.
> 
> 
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> I need a couple wheel pictures. lol
> 
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> 
> Here's a can to see how big it will be.
> 
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> 
> Now I can have some peace of mind knowing I got the roofs figured out.


It's fun to watch this come together. Nice work!


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## Dee1

htl said:


> *Caboose----mail car Roof building #3.5*
> 
> I know there are other things I need to build but the roof is the one thing that gave me trouble last time so wanted to get ahead of it.
> I used my 10" saw blade as the pattern for the roof curve.
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> 
> 
> Now I need a roof for the look out or what ever they call it, crows nest?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made this by clamping a stop to the table saw and raising the blade into the wood.
> I cranked it all the way down then would raise it 7 turns to get my height.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then band saw the top and disk sand it into shape and we have a roof.
> I super glued a squared 2×4 to the roof to help it stay lined up for sawing and sanding.
> 
> 
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> I need a couple wheel pictures. lol
> 
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> 
> Here's a can to see how big it will be.
> 
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> Now I can have some peace of mind knowing I got the roofs figured out.


Looks just Great fantastic job 
Dee1


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## htl

*Caboose----mail car #5*

Just what I've got done so far.
Trucks, you got to have trucks.

















Then some more furniture and sliding doors.












































Worked on the windows.


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## Redoak49

htl said:


> *Caboose----mail car #5*
> 
> Just what I've got done so far.
> Trucks, you got to have trucks.
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> Worked on the windows.


Great…the details are amazing.


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Caboose----mail car #5*
> 
> Just what I've got done so far.
> Trucks, you got to have trucks.
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> Worked on the windows.


Doing Good.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Caboose----mail car #5*
> 
> Just what I've got done so far.
> Trucks, you got to have trucks.
> 
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> Worked on the windows.


looking pretty darn awesome Bruce …like the furniture and pot belly stove …...GREAT JOB :<))


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Caboose----mail car #5*
> 
> Just what I've got done so far.
> Trucks, you got to have trucks.
> 
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> Worked on the windows.


You've outdone yourself* #*4… Turning this into a work of art (on a flat bench…).

I really like the look of seeing the open door through the window!

However, that begs one question… When you throw your empty beer cans out the door of the rolling caboose… how can the dog hang his head through the open window?

*PS.* Can one be supplied with built-in iPod jacks?

*PSS.* Where's the *sp'toon*?


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## htl

htl said:


> *Caboose----mail car #5*
> 
> Just what I've got done so far.
> Trucks, you got to have trucks.
> 
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> Worked on the windows.


O!!! MY GOODNESS!!!
I forgot the spittoon but have no worry's *The roof is still off*. lol


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Caboose----mail car #5*
> 
> Just what I've got done so far.
> Trucks, you got to have trucks.
> 
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> Worked on the windows.





> .....*The roof is still off*....
> 
> - htl


You are damn lucky there *#4*, sure beats sneaking it in under your jacket… like illicit grog into a sporting event!


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Caboose----mail car #5*
> 
> Just what I've got done so far.
> Trucks, you got to have trucks.
> 
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> Worked on the windows.


**


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Caboose----mail car #5*
> 
> Just what I've got done so far.
> Trucks, you got to have trucks.
> 
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> **
> 
> - Dutchy


In English… please!


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## sras

htl said:


> *Caboose----mail car #5*
> 
> Just what I've got done so far.
> Trucks, you got to have trucks.
> 
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> Worked on the windows.


This is looking fantastic!


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Caboose----mail car #5*
> 
> Just what I've got done so far.
> Trucks, you got to have trucks.
> 
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> Worked on the windows.


Magnificent Bruce especially the inside seating and stove…


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## htl

*Caboose finishing it up #6.5*

Wanted to add some detail to the trucks.


















Disk sander to the rescue again.
I took no measurements or cut any angles for this just cut the parts a little long and glued up a part sanded it and glued on something else.

















































































Thanks all for checking it out.

Some shots with the train.


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## Redoak49

htl said:


> *Caboose finishing it up #6.5*
> 
> Wanted to add some detail to the trucks.
> 
> 
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> 
> Disk sander to the rescue again.
> I took no measurements or cut any angles for this just cut the parts a little long and glued up a part sanded it and glued on something else.
> 
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> Thanks all for checking it out.
> 
> Some shots with the train.


Thanks for posting the blog detailing how you made this.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Caboose finishing it up #6.5*
> 
> Wanted to add some detail to the trucks.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> Disk sander to the rescue again.
> I took no measurements or cut any angles for this just cut the parts a little long and glued up a part sanded it and glued on something else.
> 
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> Thanks all for checking it out.
> 
> Some shots with the train.


*#4*, Does tho coupler on the bogey move or did you run out of glue?










Cool addition if it does!


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Caboose finishing it up #6.5*
> 
> Wanted to add some detail to the trucks.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Disk sander to the rescue again.
> I took no measurements or cut any angles for this just cut the parts a little long and glued up a part sanded it and glued on something else.
> 
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> Thanks all for checking it out.
> 
> Some shots with the train.


That's on First Class Caboose, Bruce….


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## bruce317

htl said:


> *Caboose finishing it up #6.5*
> 
> Wanted to add some detail to the trucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Disk sander to the rescue again.
> I took no measurements or cut any angles for this just cut the parts a little long and glued up a part sanded it and glued on something else.
> 
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> Thanks all for checking it out.
> 
> Some shots with the train.


Wow! Sweet!


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## htl

htl said:


> *Caboose finishing it up #6.5*
> 
> Wanted to add some detail to the trucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Disk sander to the rescue again.
> I took no measurements or cut any angles for this just cut the parts a little long and glued up a part sanded it and glued on something else.
> 
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> Thanks all for checking it out.
> 
> Some shots with the train.


Yes Ducky it moves for those occasional u turns. lol


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Caboose finishing it up #6.5*
> 
> Wanted to add some detail to the trucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Disk sander to the rescue again.
> I took no measurements or cut any angles for this just cut the parts a little long and glued up a part sanded it and glued on something else.
> 
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> Thanks all for checking it out.
> 
> Some shots with the train.





> .... for those *occasional* u turns…..
> 
> - htl


That should be *OFTEN* when it runs out of track!

Sorry… had a mental gap… yet to build a train or related model… forgot the whole bogey rotates.
Just give me a warning shot through the head!


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Caboose finishing it up #6.5*
> 
> Wanted to add some detail to the trucks.
> 
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> 
> Disk sander to the rescue again.
> I took no measurements or cut any angles for this just cut the parts a little long and glued up a part sanded it and glued on something else.
> 
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> Thanks all for checking it out.
> 
> Some shots with the train.


Beautiful Build great detail.


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## Dee1

htl said:


> *Caboose finishing it up #6.5*
> 
> Wanted to add some detail to the trucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Disk sander to the rescue again.
> I took no measurements or cut any angles for this just cut the parts a little long and glued up a part sanded it and glued on something else.
> 
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> Thanks all for checking it out.
> 
> Some shots with the train.


Very nice great work 
Dee1


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## htl

*Train family all together*

Here's the train set put all together.













































And here's a couple a shots of my first train cars up next to their big brothers.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Train family all together*
> 
> Here's the train set put all together.
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> And here's a couple a shots of my first train cars up next to their big brothers.


I'm loving this cute train …looks really good all together with other cars …..another GREAT JOB :<))


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## htl

htl said:


> *Train family all together*
> 
> Here's the train set put all together.
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> And here's a couple a shots of my first train cars up next to their big brothers.


Thanks GR I'm really happy with the way it turned out, now the boss wants shelves to put them on.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Train family all together*
> 
> Here's the train set put all together.
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> And here's a couple a shots of my first train cars up next to their big brothers.


Magnificent Bruce, Such a credit to to skills, craftsmanship and patience 
and YES they deserve to be displayed on a shelf…


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Train family all together*
> 
> Here's the train set put all together.
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> And here's a couple a shots of my first train cars up next to their big brothers.


*Very Good!*beautiful build congratulations.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Train family all together*
> 
> Here's the train set put all together.
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> And here's a couple a shots of my first train cars up next to their big brothers.


OK *#4*... Look cute… *BUT*....


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Train family all together*
> 
> Here's the train set put all together.
> 
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> And here's a couple a shots of my first train cars up next to their big brothers.





> ... the boss wants shelves to put them on.
> 
> - htl


Forget the shelves #4….









*PS.* Notice anything different… other than the paint???


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Train family all together*
> 
> Here's the train set put all together.
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> And here's a couple a shots of my first train cars up next to their big brothers.


All this train stuff has turned out very well. And now the boss want shelves maybe rehousing is a possibility ?


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## bruce317

htl said:


> *Train family all together*
> 
> Here's the train set put all together.
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> And here's a couple a shots of my first train cars up next to their big brothers.


Beautiful Models! Great craftsmanship!


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## bj383ss

htl said:


> *Train family all together*
> 
> Here's the train set put all together.
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> And here's a couple a shots of my first train cars up next to their big brothers.


Looks fantastic. I second the shelves so you can look at the everyday.

Bret


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## htl

*Train track build*

My train cars are just over 5' long so will be making tracks to fit and while I'm at it I'm cutting an extra set while the tools are set up just in case I get the wild hair to build more, plus if any of the tracks don't come out right I'll have a fall back set..
I am splitting the tracks in two so will have a coupling near the middle, making it much easier to work in my small shop.
So have made enough track for two shelves 5' long and will have a shelf made up for my truck and low boy, I'm looking forward to the shelve build something different to sink my teeth into.
So here's some pictures of the track build.

The first cuts are with a ten degree angle.
Will be using both sides of the fence to cut out the tracks, don't need to do this very often so very interesting.


















Love these cheap finger boards from Harbor freight.


















Now back over to the other side of the fence but you keep the same settings on the saw. 













































Now I need to cut a 16th off the sides of the top so use my sacrificial fence.





































I'm thinking 40 sleepers [ties] will get the job done we'll see.



















Need to add some pictures of the ties being glued down.
I needed 1" spacing for the ties so my square worked out just right and also helped keep it all squared up at the same time.



























Getting it finished.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Train track build*
> 
> My train cars are just over 5' long so will be making tracks to fit and while I'm at it I'm cutting an extra set while the tools are set up just in case I get the wild hair to build more, plus if any of the tracks don't come out right I'll have a fall back set..
> I am splitting the tracks in two so will have a coupling near the middle, making it much easier to work in my small shop.
> So have made enough track for two shelves 5' long and will have a shelf made up for my truck and low boy, I'm looking forward to the shelve build something different to sink my teeth into.
> So here's some pictures of the track build.
> 
> The first cuts are with a ten degree angle.
> Will be using both sides of the fence to cut out the tracks, don't need to do this very often so very interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Love these cheap finger boards from Harbor freight.
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> Now back over to the other side of the fence but you keep the same settings on the saw.
> 
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> 
> Now I need to cut a 16th off the sides of the top so use my sacrificial fence.
> 
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> 
> I'm thinking 40 sleepers [ties] will get the job done we'll see.
> 
> 
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> 
> Need to add some pictures of the ties being glued down.
> I needed 1" spacing for the ties so my square worked out just right and also helped keep it all squared up at the same time.
> 
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> 
> Getting it finished.


Top Marks Bruce… You're on a winner here…


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## bj383ss

htl said:


> *Train track build*
> 
> My train cars are just over 5' long so will be making tracks to fit and while I'm at it I'm cutting an extra set while the tools are set up just in case I get the wild hair to build more, plus if any of the tracks don't come out right I'll have a fall back set..
> I am splitting the tracks in two so will have a coupling near the middle, making it much easier to work in my small shop.
> So have made enough track for two shelves 5' long and will have a shelf made up for my truck and low boy, I'm looking forward to the shelve build something different to sink my teeth into.
> So here's some pictures of the track build.
> 
> The first cuts are with a ten degree angle.
> Will be using both sides of the fence to cut out the tracks, don't need to do this very often so very interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Love these cheap finger boards from Harbor freight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back over to the other side of the fence but you keep the same settings on the saw.
> 
> 
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> 
> Now I need to cut a 16th off the sides of the top so use my sacrificial fence.
> 
> 
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> 
> I'm thinking 40 sleepers [ties] will get the job done we'll see.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Need to add some pictures of the ties being glued down.
> I needed 1" spacing for the ties so my square worked out just right and also helped keep it all squared up at the same time.
> 
> 
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> 
> Getting it finished.


Got a front row seat to this one!


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## sras

htl said:


> *Train track build*
> 
> My train cars are just over 5' long so will be making tracks to fit and while I'm at it I'm cutting an extra set while the tools are set up just in case I get the wild hair to build more, plus if any of the tracks don't come out right I'll have a fall back set..
> I am splitting the tracks in two so will have a coupling near the middle, making it much easier to work in my small shop.
> So have made enough track for two shelves 5' long and will have a shelf made up for my truck and low boy, I'm looking forward to the shelve build something different to sink my teeth into.
> So here's some pictures of the track build.
> 
> The first cuts are with a ten degree angle.
> Will be using both sides of the fence to cut out the tracks, don't need to do this very often so very interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love these cheap finger boards from Harbor freight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back over to the other side of the fence but you keep the same settings on the saw.
> 
> 
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> 
> Now I need to cut a 16th off the sides of the top so use my sacrificial fence.
> 
> 
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> 
> I'm thinking 40 sleepers [ties] will get the job done we'll see.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need to add some pictures of the ties being glued down.
> I needed 1" spacing for the ties so my square worked out just right and also helped keep it all squared up at the same time.
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> Getting it finished.


More fun!!


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## htl

htl said:


> *Train track build*
> 
> My train cars are just over 5' long so will be making tracks to fit and while I'm at it I'm cutting an extra set while the tools are set up just in case I get the wild hair to build more, plus if any of the tracks don't come out right I'll have a fall back set..
> I am splitting the tracks in two so will have a coupling near the middle, making it much easier to work in my small shop.
> So have made enough track for two shelves 5' long and will have a shelf made up for my truck and low boy, I'm looking forward to the shelve build something different to sink my teeth into.
> So here's some pictures of the track build.
> 
> The first cuts are with a ten degree angle.
> Will be using both sides of the fence to cut out the tracks, don't need to do this very often so very interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love these cheap finger boards from Harbor freight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back over to the other side of the fence but you keep the same settings on the saw.
> 
> 
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> 
> Now I need to cut a 16th off the sides of the top so use my sacrificial fence.
> 
> 
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> 
> I'm thinking 40 sleepers [ties] will get the job done we'll see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need to add some pictures of the ties being glued down.
> I needed 1" spacing for the ties so my square worked out just right and also helped keep it all squared up at the same time.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Getting it finished.


Working on the chain gang!!!
So hard work!


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## bruce317

htl said:


> *Train track build*
> 
> My train cars are just over 5' long so will be making tracks to fit and while I'm at it I'm cutting an extra set while the tools are set up just in case I get the wild hair to build more, plus if any of the tracks don't come out right I'll have a fall back set..
> I am splitting the tracks in two so will have a coupling near the middle, making it much easier to work in my small shop.
> So have made enough track for two shelves 5' long and will have a shelf made up for my truck and low boy, I'm looking forward to the shelve build something different to sink my teeth into.
> So here's some pictures of the track build.
> 
> The first cuts are with a ten degree angle.
> Will be using both sides of the fence to cut out the tracks, don't need to do this very often so very interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love these cheap finger boards from Harbor freight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back over to the other side of the fence but you keep the same settings on the saw.
> 
> 
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> 
> Now I need to cut a 16th off the sides of the top so use my sacrificial fence.
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> I'm thinking 40 sleepers [ties] will get the job done we'll see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need to add some pictures of the ties being glued down.
> I needed 1" spacing for the ties so my square worked out just right and also helped keep it all squared up at the same time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Getting it finished.


Excellent Bruce!


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Train track build*
> 
> My train cars are just over 5' long so will be making tracks to fit and while I'm at it I'm cutting an extra set while the tools are set up just in case I get the wild hair to build more, plus if any of the tracks don't come out right I'll have a fall back set..
> I am splitting the tracks in two so will have a coupling near the middle, making it much easier to work in my small shop.
> So have made enough track for two shelves 5' long and will have a shelf made up for my truck and low boy, I'm looking forward to the shelve build something different to sink my teeth into.
> So here's some pictures of the track build.
> 
> The first cuts are with a ten degree angle.
> Will be using both sides of the fence to cut out the tracks, don't need to do this very often so very interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love these cheap finger boards from Harbor freight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now back over to the other side of the fence but you keep the same settings on the saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> Now I need to cut a 16th off the sides of the top so use my sacrificial fence.
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> I'm thinking 40 sleepers [ties] will get the job done we'll see.
> 
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> Need to add some pictures of the ties being glued down.
> I needed 1" spacing for the ties so my square worked out just right and also helped keep it all squared up at the same time.
> 
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> Getting it finished.


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## OleGrump

htl said:


> *Train track build*
> 
> My train cars are just over 5' long so will be making tracks to fit and while I'm at it I'm cutting an extra set while the tools are set up just in case I get the wild hair to build more, plus if any of the tracks don't come out right I'll have a fall back set..
> I am splitting the tracks in two so will have a coupling near the middle, making it much easier to work in my small shop.
> So have made enough track for two shelves 5' long and will have a shelf made up for my truck and low boy, I'm looking forward to the shelve build something different to sink my teeth into.
> So here's some pictures of the track build.
> 
> The first cuts are with a ten degree angle.
> Will be using both sides of the fence to cut out the tracks, don't need to do this very often so very interesting.
> 
> 
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> Love these cheap finger boards from Harbor freight.
> 
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> 
> Now back over to the other side of the fence but you keep the same settings on the saw.
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> Now I need to cut a 16th off the sides of the top so use my sacrificial fence.
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> 
> I'm thinking 40 sleepers [ties] will get the job done we'll see.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> Need to add some pictures of the ties being glued down.
> I needed 1" spacing for the ties so my square worked out just right and also helped keep it all squared up at the same time.
> 
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> Getting it finished.


WOW !!! Having been collecting and operating toy trains (primarily O and Standard gauges) for about 35 years now, I have seen a LOT of wooden track and display/storage shelves. Nothing I had seen thus far could even come CLOSE to the fine work you've done here. Great looking and AMAZING. I've cut crossties, "logs", "oil drums", turned "wine barrels", made telegraph poles, a few freight and waiting platforms over the years, but never anything close to your rails. Fantastic stuff !!!
BTW, Yes, there is a sub-culture of collectors who specialize in only trains made of wood. Not only the push type but items such as the kits from Strombecker and others.


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## MrRon

htl said:


> *Train track build*
> 
> My train cars are just over 5' long so will be making tracks to fit and while I'm at it I'm cutting an extra set while the tools are set up just in case I get the wild hair to build more, plus if any of the tracks don't come out right I'll have a fall back set..
> I am splitting the tracks in two so will have a coupling near the middle, making it much easier to work in my small shop.
> So have made enough track for two shelves 5' long and will have a shelf made up for my truck and low boy, I'm looking forward to the shelve build something different to sink my teeth into.
> So here's some pictures of the track build.
> 
> The first cuts are with a ten degree angle.
> Will be using both sides of the fence to cut out the tracks, don't need to do this very often so very interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Love these cheap finger boards from Harbor freight.
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> Now back over to the other side of the fence but you keep the same settings on the saw.
> 
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> Now I need to cut a 16th off the sides of the top so use my sacrificial fence.
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> I'm thinking 40 sleepers [ties] will get the job done we'll see.
> 
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> 
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> 
> Need to add some pictures of the ties being glued down.
> I needed 1" spacing for the ties so my square worked out just right and also helped keep it all squared up at the same time.
> 
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> Getting it finished.





> the kits from Strombecker and others.
> 
> - OleGrump


I remember the wood kits from Strombecker. It was an HO model of an F1 diesel. That had to be about 65-70 years ago. I still make trains in wood, bu in 1-1/2" and 3/4" scale. At that large size, I can produce a more realistic model. Example: An 1-1/2" scale model of the first diesel locomotive used on an American railroad. It has 2 electric motors and working headlights. I am now building at a 3/4" scale because I am running out of room.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Train track build*
> 
> My train cars are just over 5' long so will be making tracks to fit and while I'm at it I'm cutting an extra set while the tools are set up just in case I get the wild hair to build more, plus if any of the tracks don't come out right I'll have a fall back set..
> I am splitting the tracks in two so will have a coupling near the middle, making it much easier to work in my small shop.
> So have made enough track for two shelves 5' long and will have a shelf made up for my truck and low boy, I'm looking forward to the shelve build something different to sink my teeth into.
> So here's some pictures of the track build.
> 
> The first cuts are with a ten degree angle.
> Will be using both sides of the fence to cut out the tracks, don't need to do this very often so very interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Love these cheap finger boards from Harbor freight.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Now back over to the other side of the fence but you keep the same settings on the saw.
> 
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> Now I need to cut a 16th off the sides of the top so use my sacrificial fence.
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> I'm thinking 40 sleepers [ties] will get the job done we'll see.
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> Need to add some pictures of the ties being glued down.
> I needed 1" spacing for the ties so my square worked out just right and also helped keep it all squared up at the same time.
> 
> 
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> 
> Getting it finished.


Love your work MrRon and would love to try a big build but will have to be happy with making 15 little builds that I can sneak in the house, or I'd be building a dog house for some one I know very well. ;-[


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## htl

*Train track build finished and on the shelves*

Train track build finished and on the shelves.



























I should add that I added some extra finish up pictures to the last post.


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## Redoak49

htl said:


> *Train track build finished and on the shelves*
> 
> Train track build finished and on the shelves.
> 
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> I should add that I added some extra finish up pictures to the last post.


Great work and displays


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## htl

htl said:


> *Train track build finished and on the shelves*
> 
> Train track build finished and on the shelves.
> 
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> I should add that I added some extra finish up pictures to the last post.


I should mention the plywood it was made from was birch ply wood, so I was thinking the vinegar steel wool treatment wouldn't turn black but it did that's why the tracks are so black.
If I knew what I know now I would have stained the ties and rails by them selves, then put it together..

It looks fine in real light but the camera just doesn't get it right


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Train track build finished and on the shelves*
> 
> Train track build finished and on the shelves.
> 
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> I should add that I added some extra finish up pictures to the last post.


Bruce, The camera had got enough of this magnificent display shelf and it's models…beautiful!!


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Train track build finished and on the shelves*
> 
> Train track build finished and on the shelves.
> 
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> I should add that I added some extra finish up pictures to the last post.


So nice!


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Train track build finished and on the shelves*
> 
> Train track build finished and on the shelves.
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> I should add that I added some extra finish up pictures to the last post.


Looks great, all beautiful work, Congratulations,


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## kiefer

htl said:


> *Train track build finished and on the shelves*
> 
> Train track build finished and on the shelves.
> 
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> I should add that I added some extra finish up pictures to the last post.


Nice models and display and all nicely visible.
*But don't touch !!!!!!!!!!*

Klaus


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## Dee1

htl said:


> *Train track build finished and on the shelves*
> 
> Train track build finished and on the shelves.
> 
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> I should add that I added some extra finish up pictures to the last post.


Very Nice great way to show off your work 
Dee1


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## htl

*Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #1*

Going to try something a little different and build the submarine from 
20000 thousand leagues under the sea.

No plans just a picture I found that should give me what I need.
Here's my first days work.
As you can tell I didn't start taking pictures till I had the shape kinda figured out and how I might go about this project with no knowledge of subs or boat building..



























Here I'm on the band saw giving the ship some shape.


















After a ton a sanding the start to my sub.









After the robot from *Forbidden planet* it's time for a sub from *20000 thousand leagues under the sea*, My all time Favorite movie.
This movie put the love of diving in my heart and have spent at least a year of my life under water diving.

I just hope I can do it justice, we'll see..


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## chief101

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #1*
> 
> Going to try something a little different and build the submarine from
> 20000 thousand leagues under the sea.
> 
> No plans just a picture I found that should give me what I need.
> Here's my first days work.
> As you can tell I didn't start taking pictures till I had the shape kinda figured out and how I might go about this project with no knowledge of subs or boat building..
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Here I'm on the band saw giving the ship some shape.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> After a ton a sanding the start to my sub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the robot from *Forbidden planet* it's time for a sub from *20000 thousand leagues under the sea*, My all time Favorite movie.
> This movie put the love of diving in my heart and have spent at least a year of my life under water diving.
> 
> I just hope I can do it justice, we'll see..


Impressive! I really enjoy watching your progress updates. Thanks for sharing.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #1*
> 
> Going to try something a little different and build the submarine from
> 20000 thousand leagues under the sea.
> 
> No plans just a picture I found that should give me what I need.
> Here's my first days work.
> As you can tell I didn't start taking pictures till I had the shape kinda figured out and how I might go about this project with no knowledge of subs or boat building..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Here I'm on the band saw giving the ship some shape.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a ton a sanding the start to my sub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the robot from *Forbidden planet* it's time for a sub from *20000 thousand leagues under the sea*, My all time Favorite movie.
> This movie put the love of diving in my heart and have spent at least a year of my life under water diving.
> 
> I just hope I can do it justice, we'll see..


Thanks Dale.
I like going back and seeing what those who have check out my work are building and your rocking horse [that I also have built] and all your other rockers are a real treat and out standing work.
I've built many things but when I see a rocking any thing it brings a smile to my face.
So thanks for the look see!


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## htl

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #1*
> 
> Going to try something a little different and build the submarine from
> 20000 thousand leagues under the sea.
> 
> No plans just a picture I found that should give me what I need.
> Here's my first days work.
> As you can tell I didn't start taking pictures till I had the shape kinda figured out and how I might go about this project with no knowledge of subs or boat building..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Here I'm on the band saw giving the ship some shape.
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a ton a sanding the start to my sub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the robot from *Forbidden planet* it's time for a sub from *20000 thousand leagues under the sea*, My all time Favorite movie.
> This movie put the love of diving in my heart and have spent at least a year of my life under water diving.
> 
> I just hope I can do it justice, we'll see..


I should add there's probable a much easier way to go about building this but at this time it hasn't hit me yet. lol


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #1*
> 
> Going to try something a little different and build the submarine from
> 20000 thousand leagues under the sea.
> 
> No plans just a picture I found that should give me what I need.
> Here's my first days work.
> As you can tell I didn't start taking pictures till I had the shape kinda figured out and how I might go about this project with no knowledge of subs or boat building..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Here I'm on the band saw giving the ship some shape.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a ton a sanding the start to my sub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the robot from *Forbidden planet* it's time for a sub from *20000 thousand leagues under the sea*, My all time Favorite movie.
> This movie put the love of diving in my heart and have spent at least a year of my life under water diving.
> 
> I just hope I can do it justice, we'll see..





> I should add there s probable a much easier way to go about building this but at this time it hasn t hit me yet. lol
> - htl


But it's nice tot see your approach *#4*. It will give everyone ideas for the future, if it works… and what to avoid, if it doesn't.

Thanks for the post.

*PS.* And for those of us that don't have a TV to withstand 200000 leagues' pressure and have trouble holding their breath under the shower… Any chance of a heads up picture of the proposed USO (Under Swimming Object) you are working off, or are you just keeping us in suspenders for a future revelation?


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## htl

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #1*
> 
> Going to try something a little different and build the submarine from
> 20000 thousand leagues under the sea.
> 
> No plans just a picture I found that should give me what I need.
> Here's my first days work.
> As you can tell I didn't start taking pictures till I had the shape kinda figured out and how I might go about this project with no knowledge of subs or boat building..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Here I'm on the band saw giving the ship some shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a ton a sanding the start to my sub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the robot from *Forbidden planet* it's time for a sub from *20000 thousand leagues under the sea*, My all time Favorite movie.
> This movie put the love of diving in my heart and have spent at least a year of my life under water diving.
> 
> I just hope I can do it justice, we'll see..


It's in the last picture Ducky.
But here you go.


















Is that one cool looking sub or what!!!!!!!!!

Steam Punk at it's best!!!!


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #1*
> 
> Going to try something a little different and build the submarine from
> 20000 thousand leagues under the sea.
> 
> No plans just a picture I found that should give me what I need.
> Here's my first days work.
> As you can tell I didn't start taking pictures till I had the shape kinda figured out and how I might go about this project with no knowledge of subs or boat building..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> Here I'm on the band saw giving the ship some shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a ton a sanding the start to my sub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the robot from *Forbidden planet* it's time for a sub from *20000 thousand leagues under the sea*, My all time Favorite movie.
> This movie put the love of diving in my heart and have spent at least a year of my life under water diving.
> 
> I just hope I can do it justice, we'll see..


This will be a nice journey, with challenging aspects.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #1*
> 
> Going to try something a little different and build the submarine from
> 20000 thousand leagues under the sea.
> 
> No plans just a picture I found that should give me what I need.
> Here's my first days work.
> As you can tell I didn't start taking pictures till I had the shape kinda figured out and how I might go about this project with no knowledge of subs or boat building..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Here I'm on the band saw giving the ship some shape.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> After a ton a sanding the start to my sub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the robot from *Forbidden planet* it's time for a sub from *20000 thousand leagues under the sea*, My all time Favorite movie.
> This movie put the love of diving in my heart and have spent at least a year of my life under water diving.
> 
> I just hope I can do it justice, we'll see..


Thx *#4*, That is neat (the coloured version)... I suppose I'll now have to hound you about *ocean currents *instead of *tracks*...


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## hunter71

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #1*
> 
> Going to try something a little different and build the submarine from
> 20000 thousand leagues under the sea.
> 
> No plans just a picture I found that should give me what I need.
> Here's my first days work.
> As you can tell I didn't start taking pictures till I had the shape kinda figured out and how I might go about this project with no knowledge of subs or boat building..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I'm on the band saw giving the ship some shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a ton a sanding the start to my sub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the robot from *Forbidden planet* it's time for a sub from *20000 thousand leagues under the sea*, My all time Favorite movie.
> This movie put the love of diving in my heart and have spent at least a year of my life under water diving.
> 
> I just hope I can do it justice, we'll see..


It looks like a fun project.


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #1*
> 
> Going to try something a little different and build the submarine from
> 20000 thousand leagues under the sea.
> 
> No plans just a picture I found that should give me what I need.
> Here's my first days work.
> As you can tell I didn't start taking pictures till I had the shape kinda figured out and how I might go about this project with no knowledge of subs or boat building..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I'm on the band saw giving the ship some shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a ton a sanding the start to my sub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the robot from *Forbidden planet* it's time for a sub from *20000 thousand leagues under the sea*, My all time Favorite movie.
> This movie put the love of diving in my heart and have spent at least a year of my life under water diving.
> 
> I just hope I can do it justice, we'll see..


Neat project keep us posted.


----------



## Redoak49

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #1*
> 
> Going to try something a little different and build the submarine from
> 20000 thousand leagues under the sea.
> 
> No plans just a picture I found that should give me what I need.
> Here's my first days work.
> As you can tell I didn't start taking pictures till I had the shape kinda figured out and how I might go about this project with no knowledge of subs or boat building..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I'm on the band saw giving the ship some shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a ton a sanding the start to my sub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the robot from *Forbidden planet* it's time for a sub from *20000 thousand leagues under the sea*, My all time Favorite movie.
> This movie put the love of diving in my heart and have spent at least a year of my life under water diving.
> 
> I just hope I can do it justice, we'll see..


Absolutely one of my favorite movies…going to watch this thread


----------



## johnstoneb

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #1*
> 
> Going to try something a little different and build the submarine from
> 20000 thousand leagues under the sea.
> 
> No plans just a picture I found that should give me what I need.
> Here's my first days work.
> As you can tell I didn't start taking pictures till I had the shape kinda figured out and how I might go about this project with no knowledge of subs or boat building..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I'm on the band saw giving the ship some shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a ton a sanding the start to my sub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the robot from *Forbidden planet* it's time for a sub from *20000 thousand leagues under the sea*, My all time Favorite movie.
> This movie put the love of diving in my heart and have spent at least a year of my life under water diving.
> 
> I just hope I can do it justice, we'll see..


I'm going to be following this with interest.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #1*
> 
> Going to try something a little different and build the submarine from
> 20000 thousand leagues under the sea.
> 
> No plans just a picture I found that should give me what I need.
> Here's my first days work.
> As you can tell I didn't start taking pictures till I had the shape kinda figured out and how I might go about this project with no knowledge of subs or boat building..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I'm on the band saw giving the ship some shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a ton a sanding the start to my sub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the robot from *Forbidden planet* it's time for a sub from *20000 thousand leagues under the sea*, My all time Favorite movie.
> This movie put the love of diving in my heart and have spent at least a year of my life under water diving.
> 
> I just hope I can do it justice, we'll see..


what a mind to come up with that futuristic submarine design at what ? 1955 movie came out ? cool project Bruce something a little different then your used to …I love it …GREAT JOB :<))


----------



## Dakkar

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #1*
> 
> Going to try something a little different and build the submarine from
> 20000 thousand leagues under the sea.
> 
> No plans just a picture I found that should give me what I need.
> Here's my first days work.
> As you can tell I didn't start taking pictures till I had the shape kinda figured out and how I might go about this project with no knowledge of subs or boat building..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I'm on the band saw giving the ship some shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a ton a sanding the start to my sub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the robot from *Forbidden planet* it's time for a sub from *20000 thousand leagues under the sea*, My all time Favorite movie.
> This movie put the love of diving in my heart and have spent at least a year of my life under water diving.
> 
> I just hope I can do it justice, we'll see..


Nice start, htl.

The origin plans are available free online from Ty "babynuke" Bumgardner's N-E-M-O site:
http://www.raleightime.com/NEMO/nemo-home.html
http://www.raleightime.com/NEMO/nemo-blueprints.html
He's also got hundreds of reference pics there.

I've long belonged to an online forum devoted to the Nautilus and I can safely say everybody there would love for you to start a thread over there with some progress pics as you create this interesting project. I've seen a couple of carved Nauts over the years and they can be quite beautiful.
https://nautilussubmarine.com/forum/


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #1*
> 
> Going to try something a little different and build the submarine from
> 20000 thousand leagues under the sea.
> 
> No plans just a picture I found that should give me what I need.
> Here's my first days work.
> As you can tell I didn't start taking pictures till I had the shape kinda figured out and how I might go about this project with no knowledge of subs or boat building..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I'm on the band saw giving the ship some shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a ton a sanding the start to my sub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the robot from *Forbidden planet* it's time for a sub from *20000 thousand leagues under the sea*, My all time Favorite movie.
> This movie put the love of diving in my heart and have spent at least a year of my life under water diving.
> 
> I just hope I can do it justice, we'll see..


Thanks Dakkar!!!
Very interesting and helpful !!!!!!!!!!
I really don't see that this model will turn out to be any thing, just my love of the movie and the style.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #1*
> 
> Going to try something a little different and build the submarine from
> 20000 thousand leagues under the sea.
> 
> No plans just a picture I found that should give me what I need.
> Here's my first days work.
> As you can tell I didn't start taking pictures till I had the shape kinda figured out and how I might go about this project with no knowledge of subs or boat building..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I'm on the band saw giving the ship some shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a ton a sanding the start to my sub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the robot from *Forbidden planet* it's time for a sub from *20000 thousand leagues under the sea*, My all time Favorite movie.
> This movie put the love of diving in my heart and have spent at least a year of my life under water diving.
> 
> I just hope I can do it justice, we'll see..





> The origin plans are available free online….
> 
> - Dakkar


Hope you manage to get some sleep #4… there's no plans for* mirrors*.

*Dakkar*, Just a FYI… *#4* (aka Bruce) loves to make *mirrors*... nearly as much as railway *tracks*...


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #1*
> 
> Going to try something a little different and build the submarine from
> 20000 thousand leagues under the sea.
> 
> No plans just a picture I found that should give me what I need.
> Here's my first days work.
> As you can tell I didn't start taking pictures till I had the shape kinda figured out and how I might go about this project with no knowledge of subs or boat building..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I'm on the band saw giving the ship some shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a ton a sanding the start to my sub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the robot from *Forbidden planet* it's time for a sub from *20000 thousand leagues under the sea*, My all time Favorite movie.
> This movie put the love of diving in my heart and have spent at least a year of my life under water diving.
> 
> I just hope I can do it justice, we'll see..





> ..... my think you may benefit from this product as it has 16,000 different woodworking plans (all in the correct size) for only £50 ! The link is here
> 
> - JWilliams09


*#4*, Looks like you've been…







*'d*.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #1*
> 
> Going to try something a little different and build the submarine from
> 20000 thousand leagues under the sea.
> 
> No plans just a picture I found that should give me what I need.
> Here's my first days work.
> As you can tell I didn't start taking pictures till I had the shape kinda figured out and how I might go about this project with no knowledge of subs or boat building..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I'm on the band saw giving the ship some shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a ton a sanding the start to my sub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the robot from *Forbidden planet* it's time for a sub from *20000 thousand leagues under the sea*, My all time Favorite movie.
> This movie put the love of diving in my heart and have spent at least a year of my life under water diving.
> 
> I just hope I can do it justice, we'll see..


Yep!! I had all ready hit the spam button. LOL
But I all ways love seeing the Spam Mobile getting the job done. LOL


----------



## htl

*New Wheel Making Jig #1*

My old wheel making jig was way way wore out so when we moved it hit the trash can. :-[

So time to make a new one with thoughts of being more accurate and safer to use.
Want it to work with my hands farther from the blade and need to come up with a way to get better holes drilled for the dial indicator [if that the right word]

So with that being said I needed to find a guide to drill 36 holes at just the right spacing.

I started by using a 36 tooth 7 1/2" saw blade to force the drill bit to stay in place and not wander as I driller the holes.
It still may not be perfect but for my needs way better than before.










I started to use my *smaller sliding table* with the dial indicator [will use dial for dial indicator from now on] out over the end of the fence.
The thought being the larger the dial the more accurate the tool and the dial was already made at 7".
I also wanted the dial away from the saw blade as I cut the wheels.
This all sounded good at the time but my small sliding table had a fence on the back for stiffness that was getting in the way of taking the tires on and off. 
I wanted to be able to cut 3 or 4 tires at a time if possible would really speed up the building process.





































So seeing the problems coming my way I re-drilled my dial and then made a smaller dial.


















Then went and built a new sliding table just for this jig.
There would be no need for stiffeners as I wouldn't be cutting though on ether end.
The dial was just small enough to be over the table so no worry's about hitting the saw table any more.






















































I still need to build a top so I can add a vac hook up that will be easy to open and the back can be closed in for more support when cutting 4 wheels at a time.

So the three main things are 
The dial being much more accurate 
Moving the dial away from the cutting so not cutting the dial up.
The dial and the tire blank holder are bolted together so they move as one.

Will probable make a fast lock pin for the dial lock [like Duckys] but my pin stop looks to work just fine for now.

Knowing what I know now I could have moved the center partition in closer to the front but lets try this one out a couple a times to be sure of no unseen problems first.

I would make some tires now but in the middle of this I started having ideas about building a sub so will be getting back to this next week me thinks. LOL

*So now there is no need to set up anything to make wheels just set it on the saw set the saw blade high and cut treads.*

One more thought, there's only 6 screws holding the jig to the table so would be no problem if table needed for other uses, I would drill some dowel guides before removing so would be easy to get back to right fast.

The jig can make treads for tire from 2 1/2" to just under 4" with a 7 1/2" blade and with a 10" blade 1" I would think but not needing any that size any time soon I hope.

Here's an update to this blog post.

Here's some wheels made with the jig.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *New Wheel Making Jig #1*
> 
> My old wheel making jig was way way wore out so when we moved it hit the trash can. :-[
> 
> So time to make a new one with thoughts of being more accurate and safer to use.
> Want it to work with my hands farther from the blade and need to come up with a way to get better holes drilled for the dial indicator [if that the right word]
> 
> So with that being said I needed to find a guide to drill 36 holes at just the right spacing.
> 
> I started by using a 36 tooth 7 1/2" saw blade to force the drill bit to stay in place and not wander as I driller the holes.
> It still may not be perfect but for my needs way better than before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started to use my *smaller sliding table* with the dial indicator [will use dial for dial indicator from now on] out over the end of the fence.
> The thought being the larger the dial the more accurate the tool and the dial was already made at 7".
> I also wanted the dial away from the saw blade as I cut the wheels.
> This all sounded good at the time but my small sliding table had a fence on the back for stiffness that was getting in the way of taking the tires on and off.
> I wanted to be able to cut 3 or 4 tires at a time if possible would really speed up the building process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So seeing the problems coming my way I re-drilled my dial and then made a smaller dial.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then went and built a new sliding table just for this jig.
> There would be no need for stiffeners as I wouldn't be cutting though on ether end.
> The dial was just small enough to be over the table so no worry's about hitting the saw table any more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to build a top so I can add a vac hook up that will be easy to open and the back can be closed in for more support when cutting 4 wheels at a time.
> 
> So the three main things are
> The dial being much more accurate
> Moving the dial away from the cutting so not cutting the dial up.
> The dial and the tire blank holder are bolted together so they move as one.
> 
> Will probable make a fast lock pin for the dial lock [like Duckys] but my pin stop looks to work just fine for now.
> 
> Knowing what I know now I could have moved the center partition in closer to the front but lets try this one out a couple a times to be sure of no unseen problems first.
> 
> I would make some tires now but in the middle of this I started having ideas about building a sub so will be getting back to this next week me thinks. LOL
> 
> *So now there is no need to set up anything to make wheels just set it on the saw set the saw blade high and cut treads.*
> 
> One more thought, there's only 6 screws holding the jig to the table so would be no problem if table needed for other uses, I would drill some dowel guides before removing so would be easy to get back to right fast.
> 
> The jig can make treads for tire from 2 1/2" to just under 4" with a 7 1/2" blade and with a 10" blade 1" I would think but not needing any that size any time soon I hope.
> 
> Here's an update to this blog post.
> 
> Here's some wheels made with the jig.


A nice jig, not that sophisticated as Ducky's one, but perfect for his task. Great idea of that saw blade.

How about tractor wheels?


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *New Wheel Making Jig #1*
> 
> My old wheel making jig was way way wore out so when we moved it hit the trash can. :-[
> 
> So time to make a new one with thoughts of being more accurate and safer to use.
> Want it to work with my hands farther from the blade and need to come up with a way to get better holes drilled for the dial indicator [if that the right word]
> 
> So with that being said I needed to find a guide to drill 36 holes at just the right spacing.
> 
> I started by using a 36 tooth 7 1/2" saw blade to force the drill bit to stay in place and not wander as I driller the holes.
> It still may not be perfect but for my needs way better than before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started to use my *smaller sliding table* with the dial indicator [will use dial for dial indicator from now on] out over the end of the fence.
> The thought being the larger the dial the more accurate the tool and the dial was already made at 7".
> I also wanted the dial away from the saw blade as I cut the wheels.
> This all sounded good at the time but my small sliding table had a fence on the back for stiffness that was getting in the way of taking the tires on and off.
> I wanted to be able to cut 3 or 4 tires at a time if possible would really speed up the building process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So seeing the problems coming my way I re-drilled my dial and then made a smaller dial.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then went and built a new sliding table just for this jig.
> There would be no need for stiffeners as I wouldn't be cutting though on ether end.
> The dial was just small enough to be over the table so no worry's about hitting the saw table any more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to build a top so I can add a vac hook up that will be easy to open and the back can be closed in for more support when cutting 4 wheels at a time.
> 
> So the three main things are
> The dial being much more accurate
> Moving the dial away from the cutting so not cutting the dial up.
> The dial and the tire blank holder are bolted together so they move as one.
> 
> Will probable make a fast lock pin for the dial lock [like Duckys] but my pin stop looks to work just fine for now.
> 
> Knowing what I know now I could have moved the center partition in closer to the front but lets try this one out a couple a times to be sure of no unseen problems first.
> 
> I would make some tires now but in the middle of this I started having ideas about building a sub so will be getting back to this next week me thinks. LOL
> 
> *So now there is no need to set up anything to make wheels just set it on the saw set the saw blade high and cut treads.*
> 
> One more thought, there's only 6 screws holding the jig to the table so would be no problem if table needed for other uses, I would drill some dowel guides before removing so would be easy to get back to right fast.
> 
> The jig can make treads for tire from 2 1/2" to just under 4" with a 7 1/2" blade and with a 10" blade 1" I would think but not needing any that size any time soon I hope.
> 
> Here's an update to this blog post.
> 
> Here's some wheels made with the jig.


*#4*, love the simplicity of it. With the size of the indexing wheel (even the smaller one), there seems to be sufficient space between holes to prevent breakage.

Absolutely love the use of the metal hardware to ensure perfect alignment.


----------



## hunter71

htl said:


> *New Wheel Making Jig #1*
> 
> My old wheel making jig was way way wore out so when we moved it hit the trash can. :-[
> 
> So time to make a new one with thoughts of being more accurate and safer to use.
> Want it to work with my hands farther from the blade and need to come up with a way to get better holes drilled for the dial indicator [if that the right word]
> 
> So with that being said I needed to find a guide to drill 36 holes at just the right spacing.
> 
> I started by using a 36 tooth 7 1/2" saw blade to force the drill bit to stay in place and not wander as I driller the holes.
> It still may not be perfect but for my needs way better than before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started to use my *smaller sliding table* with the dial indicator [will use dial for dial indicator from now on] out over the end of the fence.
> The thought being the larger the dial the more accurate the tool and the dial was already made at 7".
> I also wanted the dial away from the saw blade as I cut the wheels.
> This all sounded good at the time but my small sliding table had a fence on the back for stiffness that was getting in the way of taking the tires on and off.
> I wanted to be able to cut 3 or 4 tires at a time if possible would really speed up the building process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So seeing the problems coming my way I re-drilled my dial and then made a smaller dial.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then went and built a new sliding table just for this jig.
> There would be no need for stiffeners as I wouldn't be cutting though on ether end.
> The dial was just small enough to be over the table so no worry's about hitting the saw table any more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to build a top so I can add a vac hook up that will be easy to open and the back can be closed in for more support when cutting 4 wheels at a time.
> 
> So the three main things are
> The dial being much more accurate
> Moving the dial away from the cutting so not cutting the dial up.
> The dial and the tire blank holder are bolted together so they move as one.
> 
> Will probable make a fast lock pin for the dial lock [like Duckys] but my pin stop looks to work just fine for now.
> 
> Knowing what I know now I could have moved the center partition in closer to the front but lets try this one out a couple a times to be sure of no unseen problems first.
> 
> I would make some tires now but in the middle of this I started having ideas about building a sub so will be getting back to this next week me thinks. LOL
> 
> *So now there is no need to set up anything to make wheels just set it on the saw set the saw blade high and cut treads.*
> 
> One more thought, there's only 6 screws holding the jig to the table so would be no problem if table needed for other uses, I would drill some dowel guides before removing so would be easy to get back to right fast.
> 
> The jig can make treads for tire from 2 1/2" to just under 4" with a 7 1/2" blade and with a 10" blade 1" I would think but not needing any that size any time soon I hope.
> 
> Here's an update to this blog post.
> 
> Here's some wheels made with the jig.


Another way to do it. Imagination and a little work and it's done. I SHOULD do a blog, I have been asked so many tomes about spooked wheels and lug wheels. I like the simplicity of this. Doug


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *New Wheel Making Jig #1*
> 
> My old wheel making jig was way way wore out so when we moved it hit the trash can. :-[
> 
> So time to make a new one with thoughts of being more accurate and safer to use.
> Want it to work with my hands farther from the blade and need to come up with a way to get better holes drilled for the dial indicator [if that the right word]
> 
> So with that being said I needed to find a guide to drill 36 holes at just the right spacing.
> 
> I started by using a 36 tooth 7 1/2" saw blade to force the drill bit to stay in place and not wander as I driller the holes.
> It still may not be perfect but for my needs way better than before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started to use my *smaller sliding table* with the dial indicator [will use dial for dial indicator from now on] out over the end of the fence.
> The thought being the larger the dial the more accurate the tool and the dial was already made at 7".
> I also wanted the dial away from the saw blade as I cut the wheels.
> This all sounded good at the time but my small sliding table had a fence on the back for stiffness that was getting in the way of taking the tires on and off.
> I wanted to be able to cut 3 or 4 tires at a time if possible would really speed up the building process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So seeing the problems coming my way I re-drilled my dial and then made a smaller dial.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then went and built a new sliding table just for this jig.
> There would be no need for stiffeners as I wouldn't be cutting though on ether end.
> The dial was just small enough to be over the table so no worry's about hitting the saw table any more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to build a top so I can add a vac hook up that will be easy to open and the back can be closed in for more support when cutting 4 wheels at a time.
> 
> So the three main things are
> The dial being much more accurate
> Moving the dial away from the cutting so not cutting the dial up.
> The dial and the tire blank holder are bolted together so they move as one.
> 
> Will probable make a fast lock pin for the dial lock [like Duckys] but my pin stop looks to work just fine for now.
> 
> Knowing what I know now I could have moved the center partition in closer to the front but lets try this one out a couple a times to be sure of no unseen problems first.
> 
> I would make some tires now but in the middle of this I started having ideas about building a sub so will be getting back to this next week me thinks. LOL
> 
> *So now there is no need to set up anything to make wheels just set it on the saw set the saw blade high and cut treads.*
> 
> One more thought, there's only 6 screws holding the jig to the table so would be no problem if table needed for other uses, I would drill some dowel guides before removing so would be easy to get back to right fast.
> 
> The jig can make treads for tire from 2 1/2" to just under 4" with a 7 1/2" blade and with a 10" blade 1" I would think but not needing any that size any time soon I hope.
> 
> Here's an update to this blog post.
> 
> Here's some wheels made with the jig.


AS I said the jig could be let loss with 6 screws and flipped to a *different angle* and then screwed down, then drill a couple a dowel holes for guides and then be set for those fancy mudders but don't make many of them just wanted a quick and easy way to get my simple straight treads done.
The pin stop I made has a pointed end to slip into the guide hole for fast placement I would add.
There is no slop or wiggling of the dial or tire holder they are bolted and locked in place on the all thread.
I know on my box making jig there was a slight give so be keeping the dial turned to one side or the other you would get consistent cuts and by cutting to one side then cut to the other side you could if needed get a 1/32 or so wider grove if needed for tight grooves.

The main thing I was after was not having to be looking every time I change to cut the next tread, plus have some ideas for a new tread pattern where the treads must match up or it just won't look right .

LOL this jig could and will probable be used for making spooks as well, just clamp it side ways to the drill table and you could drill spooks. lol


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *New Wheel Making Jig #1*
> 
> My old wheel making jig was way way wore out so when we moved it hit the trash can. :-[
> 
> So time to make a new one with thoughts of being more accurate and safer to use.
> Want it to work with my hands farther from the blade and need to come up with a way to get better holes drilled for the dial indicator [if that the right word]
> 
> So with that being said I needed to find a guide to drill 36 holes at just the right spacing.
> 
> I started by using a 36 tooth 7 1/2" saw blade to force the drill bit to stay in place and not wander as I driller the holes.
> It still may not be perfect but for my needs way better than before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started to use my *smaller sliding table* with the dial indicator [will use dial for dial indicator from now on] out over the end of the fence.
> The thought being the larger the dial the more accurate the tool and the dial was already made at 7".
> I also wanted the dial away from the saw blade as I cut the wheels.
> This all sounded good at the time but my small sliding table had a fence on the back for stiffness that was getting in the way of taking the tires on and off.
> I wanted to be able to cut 3 or 4 tires at a time if possible would really speed up the building process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So seeing the problems coming my way I re-drilled my dial and then made a smaller dial.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then went and built a new sliding table just for this jig.
> There would be no need for stiffeners as I wouldn't be cutting though on ether end.
> The dial was just small enough to be over the table so no worry's about hitting the saw table any more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to build a top so I can add a vac hook up that will be easy to open and the back can be closed in for more support when cutting 4 wheels at a time.
> 
> So the three main things are
> The dial being much more accurate
> Moving the dial away from the cutting so not cutting the dial up.
> The dial and the tire blank holder are bolted together so they move as one.
> 
> Will probable make a fast lock pin for the dial lock [like Duckys] but my pin stop looks to work just fine for now.
> 
> Knowing what I know now I could have moved the center partition in closer to the front but lets try this one out a couple a times to be sure of no unseen problems first.
> 
> I would make some tires now but in the middle of this I started having ideas about building a sub so will be getting back to this next week me thinks. LOL
> 
> *So now there is no need to set up anything to make wheels just set it on the saw set the saw blade high and cut treads.*
> 
> One more thought, there's only 6 screws holding the jig to the table so would be no problem if table needed for other uses, I would drill some dowel guides before removing so would be easy to get back to right fast.
> 
> The jig can make treads for tire from 2 1/2" to just under 4" with a 7 1/2" blade and with a 10" blade 1" I would think but not needing any that size any time soon I hope.
> 
> Here's an update to this blog post.
> 
> Here's some wheels made with the jig.


To late to change from spooks to spokes but you all get the idea I hope. :-]

*Ducky don't even go there. LOL*

There ain't no tracks mirrors or any other of them nasty parts on this sub!!!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *New Wheel Making Jig #1*
> 
> My old wheel making jig was way way wore out so when we moved it hit the trash can. :-[
> 
> So time to make a new one with thoughts of being more accurate and safer to use.
> Want it to work with my hands farther from the blade and need to come up with a way to get better holes drilled for the dial indicator [if that the right word]
> 
> So with that being said I needed to find a guide to drill 36 holes at just the right spacing.
> 
> I started by using a 36 tooth 7 1/2" saw blade to force the drill bit to stay in place and not wander as I driller the holes.
> It still may not be perfect but for my needs way better than before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started to use my *smaller sliding table* with the dial indicator [will use dial for dial indicator from now on] out over the end of the fence.
> The thought being the larger the dial the more accurate the tool and the dial was already made at 7".
> I also wanted the dial away from the saw blade as I cut the wheels.
> This all sounded good at the time but my small sliding table had a fence on the back for stiffness that was getting in the way of taking the tires on and off.
> I wanted to be able to cut 3 or 4 tires at a time if possible would really speed up the building process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So seeing the problems coming my way I re-drilled my dial and then made a smaller dial.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then went and built a new sliding table just for this jig.
> There would be no need for stiffeners as I wouldn't be cutting though on ether end.
> The dial was just small enough to be over the table so no worry's about hitting the saw table any more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to build a top so I can add a vac hook up that will be easy to open and the back can be closed in for more support when cutting 4 wheels at a time.
> 
> So the three main things are
> The dial being much more accurate
> Moving the dial away from the cutting so not cutting the dial up.
> The dial and the tire blank holder are bolted together so they move as one.
> 
> Will probable make a fast lock pin for the dial lock [like Duckys] but my pin stop looks to work just fine for now.
> 
> Knowing what I know now I could have moved the center partition in closer to the front but lets try this one out a couple a times to be sure of no unseen problems first.
> 
> I would make some tires now but in the middle of this I started having ideas about building a sub so will be getting back to this next week me thinks. LOL
> 
> *So now there is no need to set up anything to make wheels just set it on the saw set the saw blade high and cut treads.*
> 
> One more thought, there's only 6 screws holding the jig to the table so would be no problem if table needed for other uses, I would drill some dowel guides before removing so would be easy to get back to right fast.
> 
> The jig can make treads for tire from 2 1/2" to just under 4" with a 7 1/2" blade and with a 10" blade 1" I would think but not needing any that size any time soon I hope.
> 
> Here's an update to this blog post.
> 
> Here's some wheels made with the jig.


Sorry Ducky I'm getting my sub and wheel threads mixed up, talking about the track and mirror comment.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *New Wheel Making Jig #1*
> 
> My old wheel making jig was way way wore out so when we moved it hit the trash can. :-[
> 
> So time to make a new one with thoughts of being more accurate and safer to use.
> Want it to work with my hands farther from the blade and need to come up with a way to get better holes drilled for the dial indicator [if that the right word]
> 
> So with that being said I needed to find a guide to drill 36 holes at just the right spacing.
> 
> I started by using a 36 tooth 7 1/2" saw blade to force the drill bit to stay in place and not wander as I driller the holes.
> It still may not be perfect but for my needs way better than before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started to use my *smaller sliding table* with the dial indicator [will use dial for dial indicator from now on] out over the end of the fence.
> The thought being the larger the dial the more accurate the tool and the dial was already made at 7".
> I also wanted the dial away from the saw blade as I cut the wheels.
> This all sounded good at the time but my small sliding table had a fence on the back for stiffness that was getting in the way of taking the tires on and off.
> I wanted to be able to cut 3 or 4 tires at a time if possible would really speed up the building process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So seeing the problems coming my way I re-drilled my dial and then made a smaller dial.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then went and built a new sliding table just for this jig.
> There would be no need for stiffeners as I wouldn't be cutting though on ether end.
> The dial was just small enough to be over the table so no worry's about hitting the saw table any more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to build a top so I can add a vac hook up that will be easy to open and the back can be closed in for more support when cutting 4 wheels at a time.
> 
> So the three main things are
> The dial being much more accurate
> Moving the dial away from the cutting so not cutting the dial up.
> The dial and the tire blank holder are bolted together so they move as one.
> 
> Will probable make a fast lock pin for the dial lock [like Duckys] but my pin stop looks to work just fine for now.
> 
> Knowing what I know now I could have moved the center partition in closer to the front but lets try this one out a couple a times to be sure of no unseen problems first.
> 
> I would make some tires now but in the middle of this I started having ideas about building a sub so will be getting back to this next week me thinks. LOL
> 
> *So now there is no need to set up anything to make wheels just set it on the saw set the saw blade high and cut treads.*
> 
> One more thought, there's only 6 screws holding the jig to the table so would be no problem if table needed for other uses, I would drill some dowel guides before removing so would be easy to get back to right fast.
> 
> The jig can make treads for tire from 2 1/2" to just under 4" with a 7 1/2" blade and with a 10" blade 1" I would think but not needing any that size any time soon I hope.
> 
> Here's an update to this blog post.
> 
> Here's some wheels made with the jig.


*"Great idea of that saw blade."*

Duchy I would have liked to have used a smaller saw blade to start with but my battery powered Dewalts blade was If I remember right 5" but only had 24 teeth and already had this 36 tooth 7" dewalt blade so went with it.
I really don't think I could get much more accuracy with out going with a metal dial.
Should be close enough for my models, and the *main thing was I didn't want to be looking every time I move the dial,* just pull the pin and switch holes.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *New Wheel Making Jig #1*
> 
> My old wheel making jig was way way wore out so when we moved it hit the trash can. :-[
> 
> So time to make a new one with thoughts of being more accurate and safer to use.
> Want it to work with my hands farther from the blade and need to come up with a way to get better holes drilled for the dial indicator [if that the right word]
> 
> So with that being said I needed to find a guide to drill 36 holes at just the right spacing.
> 
> I started by using a 36 tooth 7 1/2" saw blade to force the drill bit to stay in place and not wander as I driller the holes.
> It still may not be perfect but for my needs way better than before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started to use my *smaller sliding table* with the dial indicator [will use dial for dial indicator from now on] out over the end of the fence.
> The thought being the larger the dial the more accurate the tool and the dial was already made at 7".
> I also wanted the dial away from the saw blade as I cut the wheels.
> This all sounded good at the time but my small sliding table had a fence on the back for stiffness that was getting in the way of taking the tires on and off.
> I wanted to be able to cut 3 or 4 tires at a time if possible would really speed up the building process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So seeing the problems coming my way I re-drilled my dial and then made a smaller dial.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then went and built a new sliding table just for this jig.
> There would be no need for stiffeners as I wouldn't be cutting though on ether end.
> The dial was just small enough to be over the table so no worry's about hitting the saw table any more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to build a top so I can add a vac hook up that will be easy to open and the back can be closed in for more support when cutting 4 wheels at a time.
> 
> So the three main things are
> The dial being much more accurate
> Moving the dial away from the cutting so not cutting the dial up.
> The dial and the tire blank holder are bolted together so they move as one.
> 
> Will probable make a fast lock pin for the dial lock [like Duckys] but my pin stop looks to work just fine for now.
> 
> Knowing what I know now I could have moved the center partition in closer to the front but lets try this one out a couple a times to be sure of no unseen problems first.
> 
> I would make some tires now but in the middle of this I started having ideas about building a sub so will be getting back to this next week me thinks. LOL
> 
> *So now there is no need to set up anything to make wheels just set it on the saw set the saw blade high and cut treads.*
> 
> One more thought, there's only 6 screws holding the jig to the table so would be no problem if table needed for other uses, I would drill some dowel guides before removing so would be easy to get back to right fast.
> 
> The jig can make treads for tire from 2 1/2" to just under 4" with a 7 1/2" blade and with a 10" blade 1" I would think but not needing any that size any time soon I hope.
> 
> Here's an update to this blog post.
> 
> Here's some wheels made with the jig.





> ..... I would have liked to have used a smaller saw blade to start with but…. had 24 teeth….
> - htl


Gents, why do you need to over complicate things. Just break off 16 teeth if you want a 20 index, however, remember to work down on the index scale as if you then want a 24 index it may be a tad difficult to glue the teeth back. Just spread the missing teeth out (as shown) or the saw may wobble on your next cut.









And again… the *Duck *to the rescue!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *New Wheel Making Jig #1*
> 
> My old wheel making jig was way way wore out so when we moved it hit the trash can. :-[
> 
> So time to make a new one with thoughts of being more accurate and safer to use.
> Want it to work with my hands farther from the blade and need to come up with a way to get better holes drilled for the dial indicator [if that the right word]
> 
> So with that being said I needed to find a guide to drill 36 holes at just the right spacing.
> 
> I started by using a 36 tooth 7 1/2" saw blade to force the drill bit to stay in place and not wander as I driller the holes.
> It still may not be perfect but for my needs way better than before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started to use my *smaller sliding table* with the dial indicator [will use dial for dial indicator from now on] out over the end of the fence.
> The thought being the larger the dial the more accurate the tool and the dial was already made at 7".
> I also wanted the dial away from the saw blade as I cut the wheels.
> This all sounded good at the time but my small sliding table had a fence on the back for stiffness that was getting in the way of taking the tires on and off.
> I wanted to be able to cut 3 or 4 tires at a time if possible would really speed up the building process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So seeing the problems coming my way I re-drilled my dial and then made a smaller dial.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then went and built a new sliding table just for this jig.
> There would be no need for stiffeners as I wouldn't be cutting though on ether end.
> The dial was just small enough to be over the table so no worry's about hitting the saw table any more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to build a top so I can add a vac hook up that will be easy to open and the back can be closed in for more support when cutting 4 wheels at a time.
> 
> So the three main things are
> The dial being much more accurate
> Moving the dial away from the cutting so not cutting the dial up.
> The dial and the tire blank holder are bolted together so they move as one.
> 
> Will probable make a fast lock pin for the dial lock [like Duckys] but my pin stop looks to work just fine for now.
> 
> Knowing what I know now I could have moved the center partition in closer to the front but lets try this one out a couple a times to be sure of no unseen problems first.
> 
> I would make some tires now but in the middle of this I started having ideas about building a sub so will be getting back to this next week me thinks. LOL
> 
> *So now there is no need to set up anything to make wheels just set it on the saw set the saw blade high and cut treads.*
> 
> One more thought, there's only 6 screws holding the jig to the table so would be no problem if table needed for other uses, I would drill some dowel guides before removing so would be easy to get back to right fast.
> 
> The jig can make treads for tire from 2 1/2" to just under 4" with a 7 1/2" blade and with a 10" blade 1" I would think but not needing any that size any time soon I hope.
> 
> Here's an update to this blog post.
> 
> Here's some wheels made with the jig.


Now that's just plain scary!!!


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *New Wheel Making Jig #1*
> 
> My old wheel making jig was way way wore out so when we moved it hit the trash can. :-[
> 
> So time to make a new one with thoughts of being more accurate and safer to use.
> Want it to work with my hands farther from the blade and need to come up with a way to get better holes drilled for the dial indicator [if that the right word]
> 
> So with that being said I needed to find a guide to drill 36 holes at just the right spacing.
> 
> I started by using a 36 tooth 7 1/2" saw blade to force the drill bit to stay in place and not wander as I driller the holes.
> It still may not be perfect but for my needs way better than before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started to use my *smaller sliding table* with the dial indicator [will use dial for dial indicator from now on] out over the end of the fence.
> The thought being the larger the dial the more accurate the tool and the dial was already made at 7".
> I also wanted the dial away from the saw blade as I cut the wheels.
> This all sounded good at the time but my small sliding table had a fence on the back for stiffness that was getting in the way of taking the tires on and off.
> I wanted to be able to cut 3 or 4 tires at a time if possible would really speed up the building process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So seeing the problems coming my way I re-drilled my dial and then made a smaller dial.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then went and built a new sliding table just for this jig.
> There would be no need for stiffeners as I wouldn't be cutting though on ether end.
> The dial was just small enough to be over the table so no worry's about hitting the saw table any more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to build a top so I can add a vac hook up that will be easy to open and the back can be closed in for more support when cutting 4 wheels at a time.
> 
> So the three main things are
> The dial being much more accurate
> Moving the dial away from the cutting so not cutting the dial up.
> The dial and the tire blank holder are bolted together so they move as one.
> 
> Will probable make a fast lock pin for the dial lock [like Duckys] but my pin stop looks to work just fine for now.
> 
> Knowing what I know now I could have moved the center partition in closer to the front but lets try this one out a couple a times to be sure of no unseen problems first.
> 
> I would make some tires now but in the middle of this I started having ideas about building a sub so will be getting back to this next week me thinks. LOL
> 
> *So now there is no need to set up anything to make wheels just set it on the saw set the saw blade high and cut treads.*
> 
> One more thought, there's only 6 screws holding the jig to the table so would be no problem if table needed for other uses, I would drill some dowel guides before removing so would be easy to get back to right fast.
> 
> The jig can make treads for tire from 2 1/2" to just under 4" with a 7 1/2" blade and with a 10" blade 1" I would think but not needing any that size any time soon I hope.
> 
> Here's an update to this blog post.
> 
> Here's some wheels made with the jig.


And again… the Duck to the rescue!
-If your first cut is too short… Take the second cut from the longer end… LBD
Quote

remember Elmer Fudd shot the face off that duck LMAO :<))


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *New Wheel Making Jig #1*
> 
> My old wheel making jig was way way wore out so when we moved it hit the trash can. :-[
> 
> So time to make a new one with thoughts of being more accurate and safer to use.
> Want it to work with my hands farther from the blade and need to come up with a way to get better holes drilled for the dial indicator [if that the right word]
> 
> So with that being said I needed to find a guide to drill 36 holes at just the right spacing.
> 
> I started by using a 36 tooth 7 1/2" saw blade to force the drill bit to stay in place and not wander as I driller the holes.
> It still may not be perfect but for my needs way better than before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started to use my *smaller sliding table* with the dial indicator [will use dial for dial indicator from now on] out over the end of the fence.
> The thought being the larger the dial the more accurate the tool and the dial was already made at 7".
> I also wanted the dial away from the saw blade as I cut the wheels.
> This all sounded good at the time but my small sliding table had a fence on the back for stiffness that was getting in the way of taking the tires on and off.
> I wanted to be able to cut 3 or 4 tires at a time if possible would really speed up the building process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So seeing the problems coming my way I re-drilled my dial and then made a smaller dial.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then went and built a new sliding table just for this jig.
> There would be no need for stiffeners as I wouldn't be cutting though on ether end.
> The dial was just small enough to be over the table so no worry's about hitting the saw table any more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to build a top so I can add a vac hook up that will be easy to open and the back can be closed in for more support when cutting 4 wheels at a time.
> 
> So the three main things are
> The dial being much more accurate
> Moving the dial away from the cutting so not cutting the dial up.
> The dial and the tire blank holder are bolted together so they move as one.
> 
> Will probable make a fast lock pin for the dial lock [like Duckys] but my pin stop looks to work just fine for now.
> 
> Knowing what I know now I could have moved the center partition in closer to the front but lets try this one out a couple a times to be sure of no unseen problems first.
> 
> I would make some tires now but in the middle of this I started having ideas about building a sub so will be getting back to this next week me thinks. LOL
> 
> *So now there is no need to set up anything to make wheels just set it on the saw set the saw blade high and cut treads.*
> 
> One more thought, there's only 6 screws holding the jig to the table so would be no problem if table needed for other uses, I would drill some dowel guides before removing so would be easy to get back to right fast.
> 
> The jig can make treads for tire from 2 1/2" to just under 4" with a 7 1/2" blade and with a 10" blade 1" I would think but not needing any that size any time soon I hope.
> 
> Here's an update to this blog post.
> 
> Here's some wheels made with the jig.


GR8 *More than once if I remember right*, and well deserved!!! lol


----------



## diggerdelaney

htl said:


> *New Wheel Making Jig #1*
> 
> My old wheel making jig was way way wore out so when we moved it hit the trash can. :-[
> 
> So time to make a new one with thoughts of being more accurate and safer to use.
> Want it to work with my hands farther from the blade and need to come up with a way to get better holes drilled for the dial indicator [if that the right word]
> 
> So with that being said I needed to find a guide to drill 36 holes at just the right spacing.
> 
> I started by using a 36 tooth 7 1/2" saw blade to force the drill bit to stay in place and not wander as I driller the holes.
> It still may not be perfect but for my needs way better than before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started to use my *smaller sliding table* with the dial indicator [will use dial for dial indicator from now on] out over the end of the fence.
> The thought being the larger the dial the more accurate the tool and the dial was already made at 7".
> I also wanted the dial away from the saw blade as I cut the wheels.
> This all sounded good at the time but my small sliding table had a fence on the back for stiffness that was getting in the way of taking the tires on and off.
> I wanted to be able to cut 3 or 4 tires at a time if possible would really speed up the building process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So seeing the problems coming my way I re-drilled my dial and then made a smaller dial.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then went and built a new sliding table just for this jig.
> There would be no need for stiffeners as I wouldn't be cutting though on ether end.
> The dial was just small enough to be over the table so no worry's about hitting the saw table any more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to build a top so I can add a vac hook up that will be easy to open and the back can be closed in for more support when cutting 4 wheels at a time.
> 
> So the three main things are
> The dial being much more accurate
> Moving the dial away from the cutting so not cutting the dial up.
> The dial and the tire blank holder are bolted together so they move as one.
> 
> Will probable make a fast lock pin for the dial lock [like Duckys] but my pin stop looks to work just fine for now.
> 
> Knowing what I know now I could have moved the center partition in closer to the front but lets try this one out a couple a times to be sure of no unseen problems first.
> 
> I would make some tires now but in the middle of this I started having ideas about building a sub so will be getting back to this next week me thinks. LOL
> 
> *So now there is no need to set up anything to make wheels just set it on the saw set the saw blade high and cut treads.*
> 
> One more thought, there's only 6 screws holding the jig to the table so would be no problem if table needed for other uses, I would drill some dowel guides before removing so would be easy to get back to right fast.
> 
> The jig can make treads for tire from 2 1/2" to just under 4" with a 7 1/2" blade and with a 10" blade 1" I would think but not needing any that size any time soon I hope.
> 
> Here's an update to this blog post.
> 
> Here's some wheels made with the jig.


Love the simplicity of how to mark out the indexing plate. Like you I enjoy making the jigs for the models I make


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *New Wheel Making Jig #1*
> 
> My old wheel making jig was way way wore out so when we moved it hit the trash can. :-[
> 
> So time to make a new one with thoughts of being more accurate and safer to use.
> Want it to work with my hands farther from the blade and need to come up with a way to get better holes drilled for the dial indicator [if that the right word]
> 
> So with that being said I needed to find a guide to drill 36 holes at just the right spacing.
> 
> I started by using a 36 tooth 7 1/2" saw blade to force the drill bit to stay in place and not wander as I driller the holes.
> It still may not be perfect but for my needs way better than before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started to use my *smaller sliding table* with the dial indicator [will use dial for dial indicator from now on] out over the end of the fence.
> The thought being the larger the dial the more accurate the tool and the dial was already made at 7".
> I also wanted the dial away from the saw blade as I cut the wheels.
> This all sounded good at the time but my small sliding table had a fence on the back for stiffness that was getting in the way of taking the tires on and off.
> I wanted to be able to cut 3 or 4 tires at a time if possible would really speed up the building process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So seeing the problems coming my way I re-drilled my dial and then made a smaller dial.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then went and built a new sliding table just for this jig.
> There would be no need for stiffeners as I wouldn't be cutting though on ether end.
> The dial was just small enough to be over the table so no worry's about hitting the saw table any more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to build a top so I can add a vac hook up that will be easy to open and the back can be closed in for more support when cutting 4 wheels at a time.
> 
> So the three main things are
> The dial being much more accurate
> Moving the dial away from the cutting so not cutting the dial up.
> The dial and the tire blank holder are bolted together so they move as one.
> 
> Will probable make a fast lock pin for the dial lock [like Duckys] but my pin stop looks to work just fine for now.
> 
> Knowing what I know now I could have moved the center partition in closer to the front but lets try this one out a couple a times to be sure of no unseen problems first.
> 
> I would make some tires now but in the middle of this I started having ideas about building a sub so will be getting back to this next week me thinks. LOL
> 
> *So now there is no need to set up anything to make wheels just set it on the saw set the saw blade high and cut treads.*
> 
> One more thought, there's only 6 screws holding the jig to the table so would be no problem if table needed for other uses, I would drill some dowel guides before removing so would be easy to get back to right fast.
> 
> The jig can make treads for tire from 2 1/2" to just under 4" with a 7 1/2" blade and with a 10" blade 1" I would think but not needing any that size any time soon I hope.
> 
> Here's an update to this blog post.
> 
> Here's some wheels made with the jig.


*""I still need to build a top so I can add a vac hook up that will be easy to open and the back can be closed in for more support when cutting 4 wheels at a time.""*

Just wanted to update this.
There's no need for the vac hook up this cuts so close to the base all most all the saw dust goes out the bottom.


----------



## htl

*Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #2 & 3*

If I knew what I know now, I would probable done things a little differently but hind site is 20 20.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #2 & 3*
> 
> If I knew what I know now, I would probable done things a little differently but hind site is 20 20.


this project is going to be WAY COOL :<))


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #2 & 3*
> 
> If I knew what I know now, I would probable done things a little differently but hind site is 20 20.


Thanks Hunter the Great!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #2 & 3*
> 
> If I knew what I know now, I would probable done things a little differently but hind site is 20 20.


I'm expecting this to poke it's faceout of one of the portals….


----------



## SouthavenToyMaker

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #2 & 3*
> 
> If I knew what I know now, I would probable done things a little differently but hind site is 20 20.


super cool


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #2 & 3*
> 
> If I knew what I know now, I would probable done things a little differently but hind site is 20 20.


Nice to follow. Something different.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #2 & 3*
> 
> If I knew what I know now, I would probable done things a little differently but hind site is 20 20.


Just a couple a hours playing in the shop.



























Still a lot of adjustments but you all get the idea.


----------



## htl

*Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #4 1/2*

Working on the wings [flippers?]
None of the wings are glued in, just in the groove waiting for final shaping.
Just showing the pictures as I got things done.

I should add the whole model is made in maple.













































Starting to sand and smooth things out.





































I'm at a stand still trying to figure out a way to make the teeth [front ripper saw teeth].*Aaaaa!!!!!!!!!!*


----------



## bruce317

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #4 1/2*
> 
> Working on the wings [flippers?]
> None of the wings are glued in, just in the groove waiting for final shaping.
> Just showing the pictures as I got things done.
> 
> I should add the whole model is made in maple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Starting to sand and smooth things out.
> 
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> 
> 
> I'm at a stand still trying to figure out a way to make the teeth [front ripper saw teeth].*Aaaaa!!!!!!!!!!*


Bruce,
That is really good. I do like it!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #4 1/2*
> 
> Working on the wings [flippers?]
> None of the wings are glued in, just in the groove waiting for final shaping.
> Just showing the pictures as I got things done.
> 
> I should add the whole model is made in maple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Starting to sand and smooth things out.
> 
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> 
> 
> I'm at a stand still trying to figure out a way to make the teeth [front ripper saw teeth].*Aaaaa!!!!!!!!!!*


Thanks #3 
It always helps when you love the subject your working on.


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## Redoak49

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #4 1/2*
> 
> Working on the wings [flippers?]
> None of the wings are glued in, just in the groove waiting for final shaping.
> Just showing the pictures as I got things done.
> 
> I should add the whole model is made in maple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> Starting to sand and smooth things out.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> I'm at a stand still trying to figure out a way to make the teeth [front ripper saw teeth].*Aaaaa!!!!!!!!!!*


A tremendous job…....


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #4 1/2*
> 
> Working on the wings [flippers?]
> None of the wings are glued in, just in the groove waiting for final shaping.
> Just showing the pictures as I got things done.
> 
> I should add the whole model is made in maple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Starting to sand and smooth things out.
> 
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> 
> 
> I'm at a stand still trying to figure out a way to make the teeth [front ripper saw teeth].*Aaaaa!!!!!!!!!!*


That is really taking shape *#4*, and for a landlubber I am enjoying this build more than I imagined (and I have a good imagination).

*PS.*


> I m at a stand still trying to figure out a way to make the teeth.*Aaaaa!!!!!!!!!!*
> - htl


I'm on the cusp of getting all my teeth out for a plastic "*upgrade*"....*Aaaaa!!!!!!!!!!*

I can post you some (or all) of them obsolete bones…


----------



## johnstoneb

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #4 1/2*
> 
> Working on the wings [flippers?]
> None of the wings are glued in, just in the groove waiting for final shaping.
> Just showing the pictures as I got things done.
> 
> I should add the whole model is made in maple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Starting to sand and smooth things out.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> I'm at a stand still trying to figure out a way to make the teeth [front ripper saw teeth].*Aaaaa!!!!!!!!!!*


That is looking good keep up the good work.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #4 1/2*
> 
> Working on the wings [flippers?]
> None of the wings are glued in, just in the groove waiting for final shaping.
> Just showing the pictures as I got things done.
> 
> I should add the whole model is made in maple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> I'm at a stand still trying to figure out a way to make the teeth [front ripper saw teeth].*Aaaaa!!!!!!!!!!*


You certain going swimmingly Bruce with this underwater project


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #4 1/2*
> 
> Working on the wings [flippers?]
> None of the wings are glued in, just in the groove waiting for final shaping.
> Just showing the pictures as I got things done.
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forgot the subscription


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #4 1/2*
> 
> Working on the wings [flippers?]
> None of the wings are glued in, just in the groove waiting for final shaping.
> Just showing the pictures as I got things done.
> 
> I should add the whole model is made in maple.
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> I'm at a stand still trying to figure out a way to make the teeth [front ripper saw teeth].*Aaaaa!!!!!!!!!!*


Prachtig mooie onderzeeër.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #4 1/2*
> 
> Working on the wings [flippers?]
> None of the wings are glued in, just in the groove waiting for final shaping.
> Just showing the pictures as I got things done.
> 
> I should add the whole model is made in maple.
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> I'm at a stand still trying to figure out a way to make the teeth [front ripper saw teeth].*Aaaaa!!!!!!!!!!*





> Prachtig mooie onderzeeër.
> 
> - Dutchy


Lovely lovely submarine.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #4 1/2*
> 
> Working on the wings [flippers?]
> None of the wings are glued in, just in the groove waiting for final shaping.
> Just showing the pictures as I got things done.
> 
> I should add the whole model is made in maple.
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> Prachtig mooie onderzeeër.
> 
> - Dutchy
> 
> Lovely lovely submarine.
> 
> - crowie


Darn… I thought he said *fish and chips *on Friday night.


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #4 1/2*
> 
> Working on the wings [flippers?]
> None of the wings are glued in, just in the groove waiting for final shaping.
> Just showing the pictures as I got things done.
> 
> I should add the whole model is made in maple.
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> I'm at a stand still trying to figure out a way to make the teeth [front ripper saw teeth].*Aaaaa!!!!!!!!!!*


*Fantastic!!*


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## Woodbutchery

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #4 1/2*
> 
> Working on the wings [flippers?]
> None of the wings are glued in, just in the groove waiting for final shaping.
> Just showing the pictures as I got things done.
> 
> I should add the whole model is made in maple.
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A very nice job. Inspiring!


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #4 1/2*
> 
> Working on the wings [flippers?]
> None of the wings are glued in, just in the groove waiting for final shaping.
> Just showing the pictures as I got things done.
> 
> I should add the whole model is made in maple.
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just keeps getting better :<))


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## htl

*Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #5 1/2*

Getting close to the end of this project and man have I loved figuring this baby out.
All that is needed is a rudder and screw guard I think.




































*Building the prop was quite interesting [it's so small.]*






















































Getting it all glued up after a ton a sanding and buffing.































































The project pictures are here.


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #5 1/2*
> 
> Getting close to the end of this project and man have I loved figuring this baby out.
> All that is needed is a rudder and screw guard I think.
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> *Building the prop was quite interesting [it's so small.]*
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**


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## Redoak49

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #5 1/2*
> 
> Getting close to the end of this project and man have I loved figuring this baby out.
> All that is needed is a rudder and screw guard I think.
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> *Building the prop was quite interesting [it's so small.]*
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I love this project and blog….thanks. (any chance you have made some templates or plans?)


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## Oliver15

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #5 1/2*
> 
> Getting close to the end of this project and man have I loved figuring this baby out.
> All that is needed is a rudder and screw guard I think.
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If I remember right, you still missing a giant squid! Or was it an octopus?!


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #5 1/2*
> 
> Getting close to the end of this project and man have I loved figuring this baby out.
> All that is needed is a rudder and screw guard I think.
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> *Building the prop was quite interesting [it's so small.]*
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> If I remember right, you still missing a giant squid! Or was it an octopus?!
> 
> - Derek Oliver


We strive for realism here!


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## htl

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #5 1/2*
> 
> Getting close to the end of this project and man have I loved figuring this baby out.
> All that is needed is a rudder and screw guard I think.
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Way cool!!!
Thanks ducky but you better stay out of the water.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #5 1/2*
> 
> Getting close to the end of this project and man have I loved figuring this baby out.
> All that is needed is a rudder and screw guard I think.
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> I love this project and blog….thanks. (any chance you have made some templates or plans?)
> 
> - Redoak49


Sorry Redoak I thought about tracing out the sail wings today for a later build but got busy and forgot about it.
There are blue prints or plans all over the place for this, check out here for all things Nautilus.

Or just search Nautilus plans, it's where I got my start on this.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #5 1/2*
> 
> Getting close to the end of this project and man have I loved figuring this baby out.
> All that is needed is a rudder and screw guard I think.
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> I love this project and blog….thanks. (any chance you have made some templates or plans?)
> 
> - Redoak49
> 
> Sorry Redoak I thought about tracing out the sail wings today for a later build but got busy and forgot about it.
> 
> - htl


*#4*, what is the dimension of your little tadpole (from bow to stern)? I found a good Sketchup model of it. I can resize it (it's currently "full size [hundred feet or so]" and make it available if anyone is interested.


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #5 1/2*
> 
> Getting close to the end of this project and man have I loved figuring this baby out.
> All that is needed is a rudder and screw guard I think.
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> *Building the prop was quite interesting [it's so small.]*
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Dandy project


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## htl

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #5 1/2*
> 
> Getting close to the end of this project and man have I loved figuring this baby out.
> All that is needed is a rudder and screw guard I think.
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> *Building the prop was quite interesting [it's so small.]*
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> Getting it all glued up after a ton a sanding and buffing.
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> The project pictures are here.


Ducky it's 20" from tip to tail, 4 1/2 high, and 4 1/2 wide.
That's the sub with out stand.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #5 1/2*
> 
> Getting close to the end of this project and man have I loved figuring this baby out.
> All that is needed is a rudder and screw guard I think.
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> *Building the prop was quite interesting [it's so small.]*
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> Getting it all glued up after a ton a sanding and buffing.
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> The project pictures are here.


Redoak49 
If you really interested I can take some straight on pictures side, top, front and back all from the same distance, then all you'd need to do is print them out and then shrink or enlarge the pictures to what ever size you want to build it.
That's how I build all my scratch builds.
In fact this model was just a blow up of this plan on the net.
Really it's easier from this plan there'a just enough info to get er done.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #5 1/2*
> 
> Getting close to the end of this project and man have I loved figuring this baby out.
> All that is needed is a rudder and screw guard I think.
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> *Building the prop was quite interesting [it's so small.]*
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> Getting it all glued up after a ton a sanding and buffing.
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I found a good Sketchup model of it. I can resize it (it s currently "full size [hundred feet or so]" and make it available if anyone is interested.

- LittleBlackDuck

Ducky I think I found the one your talking about and really like it, is this the one.

I hadn't thought to check out Sketchup.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #5 1/2*
> 
> Getting close to the end of this project and man have I loved figuring this baby out.
> All that is needed is a rudder and screw guard I think.
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> *Building the prop was quite interesting [it's so small.]*
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> Getting it all glued up after a ton a sanding and buffing.
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> Ducky I think I found the one your talking about and really like it, is this the one.
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> - htl


*Bingo* in scuba gear!


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## Redoak49

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #5 1/2*
> 
> Getting close to the end of this project and man have I loved figuring this baby out.
> All that is needed is a rudder and screw guard I think.
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> *Building the prop was quite interesting [it's so small.]*
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> Getting it all glued up after a ton a sanding and buffing.
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Thanks HTL, I am adding this to my list of projects to consider…......a rather long list.

This is a very unique and awesome project.


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## ToyMakingDad

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #5 1/2*
> 
> Getting close to the end of this project and man have I loved figuring this baby out.
> All that is needed is a rudder and screw guard I think.
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> *Building the prop was quite interesting [it's so small.]*
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> Getting it all glued up after a ton a sanding and buffing.
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So flippin' cool.
Looks great and almost certainly a one of a kind build.
Well done.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #5 1/2*
> 
> Getting close to the end of this project and man have I loved figuring this baby out.
> All that is needed is a rudder and screw guard I think.
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> *Building the prop was quite interesting [it's so small.]*
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> Getting it all glued up after a ton a sanding and buffing.
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Just love you imagination and creative clever building skills Bruce….


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## htl

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #5 1/2*
> 
> Getting close to the end of this project and man have I loved figuring this baby out.
> All that is needed is a rudder and screw guard I think.
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> *Building the prop was quite interesting [it's so small.]*
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> Getting it all glued up after a ton a sanding and buffing.
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This project was a labor of love and deep respect for a point in time that changed my life.


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## chief101

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #5 1/2*
> 
> Getting close to the end of this project and man have I loved figuring this baby out.
> All that is needed is a rudder and screw guard I think.
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> *Building the prop was quite interesting [it's so small.]*
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> Getting it all glued up after a ton a sanding and buffing.
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Absolutely awesome.


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## robertcowell

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #5 1/2*
> 
> Getting close to the end of this project and man have I loved figuring this baby out.
> All that is needed is a rudder and screw guard I think.
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> *Building the prop was quite interesting [it's so small.]*
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> Getting it all glued up after a ton a sanding and buffing.
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I like your idea and its embodiment! Today I'll go for the materials, my son needs a submarine)


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #5 1/2*
> 
> Getting close to the end of this project and man have I loved figuring this baby out.
> All that is needed is a rudder and screw guard I think.
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> *Building the prop was quite interesting [it's so small.]*
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> Getting it all glued up after a ton a sanding and buffing.
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> .... my son needs a submarine….
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> - Robert Cowell


You're gonna need a bigger pool!


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## htl

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #5 1/2*
> 
> Getting close to the end of this project and man have I loved figuring this baby out.
> All that is needed is a rudder and screw guard I think.
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> *Building the prop was quite interesting [it's so small.]*
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> Getting it all glued up after a ton a sanding and buffing.
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Robert Please keep us up to date on your progress :-]

Robert the main thing I would do different is cut the grooves for the fins while the body is still square.
I guess you could glue the fins on with out the grooves but will be much stronger and straighter using them.

Have fun with it, that's the main thing.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Nautilus 20000 thousand leagues under the sea #5 1/2*
> 
> Getting close to the end of this project and man have I loved figuring this baby out.
> All that is needed is a rudder and screw guard I think.
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> *Building the prop was quite interesting [it's so small.]*
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> Getting it all glued up after a ton a sanding and buffing.
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The other day I made something that just might go with the sub.


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## htl

*New Wheel Making Jig #2 For Angled Treads *

After posting my last wheel making jig Duchy posted.



> A nice jig, not that sophisticated as Ducky s one, but perfect for his task. Great idea of that saw blade.
> 
> *How about tractor wheels?
> *
> - Dutchy


Here's the first wheel jig blog.
.
Well here's another jig pretty close to the other straight tread jig but able to be moved around for different angle treads.

I make a lot more straight treads so will leave the first jig on the wall and build a new one.

Here's a picture of the type of tread we're making.










And what it will look like when done.









I should add the whole benefit of these jigs is to be able to just put the jig on the saw and make treads with out having to do a lot of setting things up.
If all your making is one set a wheels the way Toys and Joys will do just fine.

As the pictures will show I set it to an angle I want [Hummer treads] for the left side tread.
I then clamp it down drive in two screws and then drill a couple a 1/4" holes and place some dowels in them so now I will be able to find this angle setting again in seconds.

Then by taking out the screws and doing the same for the right angle I'm all set to make the angled treads for the Hummer and many other treads.

Once the dowel holes are made I can switch from one angle to another in the time it takes to take out 4 screws take out the dowels and then place them in the new hole settings and screw them down.

So the *biggest difference* from the first jig is adding the wings to the sides, so you have some where to add the dowels and the screws.

*The biggest trick to using this jig is getting the center of the tire set with the cut of the saw blade.
*

Set to make right side treads.



















Set to make left side treads.



























And here's the straight cutter jig on the wall.









I didn't make this big enough for tractor wheels as I'm not planning on building any in the near future but hey you never know, I hadn't planned on a sub either. LOL

Here's some wheels made with the jig.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *New Wheel Making Jig #2 For Angled Treads *
> 
> After posting my last wheel making jig Duchy posted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A nice jig, not that sophisticated as Ducky s one, but perfect for his task. Great idea of that saw blade.
> 
> *How about tractor wheels?
> *
> - Dutchy
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the first wheel jig blog.
> .
> Well here's another jig pretty close to the other straight tread jig but able to be moved around for different angle treads.
> 
> I make a lot more straight treads so will leave the first jig on the wall and build a new one.
> 
> Here's a picture of the type of tread we're making.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And what it will look like when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I should add the whole benefit of these jigs is to be able to just put the jig on the saw and make treads with out having to do a lot of setting things up.
> If all your making is one set a wheels the way Toys and Joys will do just fine.
> 
> As the pictures will show I set it to an angle I want [Hummer treads] for the left side tread.
> I then clamp it down drive in two screws and then drill a couple a 1/4" holes and place some dowels in them so now I will be able to find this angle setting again in seconds.
> 
> Then by taking out the screws and doing the same for the right angle I'm all set to make the angled treads for the Hummer and many other treads.
> 
> Once the dowel holes are made I can switch from one angle to another in the time it takes to take out 4 screws take out the dowels and then place them in the new hole settings and screw them down.
> 
> So the *biggest difference* from the first jig is adding the wings to the sides, so you have some where to add the dowels and the screws.
> 
> *The biggest trick to using this jig is getting the center of the tire set with the cut of the saw blade.
> *
> 
> Set to make right side treads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set to make left side treads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's the straight cutter jig on the wall.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't make this big enough for tractor wheels as I'm not planning on building any in the near future but hey you never know, I hadn't planned on a sub either. LOL
> 
> Here's some wheels made with the jig.
Click to expand...

You have made this for me? Superb? But I hope others will like it to. Great idea to make the skew adjustment on the outside. In my brain it always has been on the inside. So you can say this idea is out of the box for me. Am I now obligated to do it the same way? I like my own jig very much 

*Thanks Bruce!*


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *New Wheel Making Jig #2 For Angled Treads *
> 
> After posting my last wheel making jig Duchy posted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A nice jig, not that sophisticated as Ducky s one, but perfect for his task. Great idea of that saw blade.
> 
> *How about tractor wheels?
> *
> - Dutchy
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the first wheel jig blog.
> .
> Well here's another jig pretty close to the other straight tread jig but able to be moved around for different angle treads.
> 
> I make a lot more straight treads so will leave the first jig on the wall and build a new one.
> 
> Here's a picture of the type of tread we're making.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And what it will look like when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I should add the whole benefit of these jigs is to be able to just put the jig on the saw and make treads with out having to do a lot of setting things up.
> If all your making is one set a wheels the way Toys and Joys will do just fine.
> 
> As the pictures will show I set it to an angle I want [Hummer treads] for the left side tread.
> I then clamp it down drive in two screws and then drill a couple a 1/4" holes and place some dowels in them so now I will be able to find this angle setting again in seconds.
> 
> Then by taking out the screws and doing the same for the right angle I'm all set to make the angled treads for the Hummer and many other treads.
> 
> Once the dowel holes are made I can switch from one angle to another in the time it takes to take out 4 screws take out the dowels and then place them in the new hole settings and screw them down.
> 
> So the *biggest difference* from the first jig is adding the wings to the sides, so you have some where to add the dowels and the screws.
> 
> *The biggest trick to using this jig is getting the center of the tire set with the cut of the saw blade.
> *
> 
> Set to make right side treads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set to make left side treads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's the straight cutter jig on the wall.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't make this big enough for tractor wheels as I'm not planning on building any in the near future but hey you never know, I hadn't planned on a sub either. LOL
> 
> Here's some wheels made with the jig.
Click to expand...

Slick trick looks GOOD!


----------



## hunter71

htl said:


> *New Wheel Making Jig #2 For Angled Treads *
> 
> After posting my last wheel making jig Duchy posted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A nice jig, not that sophisticated as Ducky s one, but perfect for his task. Great idea of that saw blade.
> 
> *How about tractor wheels?
> *
> - Dutchy
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the first wheel jig blog.
> .
> Well here's another jig pretty close to the other straight tread jig but able to be moved around for different angle treads.
> 
> I make a lot more straight treads so will leave the first jig on the wall and build a new one.
> 
> Here's a picture of the type of tread we're making.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And what it will look like when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I should add the whole benefit of these jigs is to be able to just put the jig on the saw and make treads with out having to do a lot of setting things up.
> If all your making is one set a wheels the way Toys and Joys will do just fine.
> 
> As the pictures will show I set it to an angle I want [Hummer treads] for the left side tread.
> I then clamp it down drive in two screws and then drill a couple a 1/4" holes and place some dowels in them so now I will be able to find this angle setting again in seconds.
> 
> Then by taking out the screws and doing the same for the right angle I'm all set to make the angled treads for the Hummer and many other treads.
> 
> Once the dowel holes are made I can switch from one angle to another in the time it takes to take out 4 screws take out the dowels and then place them in the new hole settings and screw them down.
> 
> So the *biggest difference* from the first jig is adding the wings to the sides, so you have some where to add the dowels and the screws.
> 
> *The biggest trick to using this jig is getting the center of the tire set with the cut of the saw blade.
> *
> 
> Set to make right side treads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set to make left side treads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's the straight cutter jig on the wall.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't make this big enough for tractor wheels as I'm not planning on building any in the near future but hey you never know, I hadn't planned on a sub either. LOL
> 
> Here's some wheels made with the jig.
Click to expand...

Neat, I dedicated a small 10" saw just for wheels. Pick on up cheap at trade day. Not building trucks much these days though. For my tractor tires I have other blades.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *New Wheel Making Jig #2 For Angled Treads *
> 
> After posting my last wheel making jig Duchy posted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A nice jig, not that sophisticated as Ducky s one, but perfect for his task. Great idea of that saw blade.
> 
> *How about tractor wheels?
> *
> - Dutchy
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the first wheel jig blog.
> .
> Well here's another jig pretty close to the other straight tread jig but able to be moved around for different angle treads.
> 
> I make a lot more straight treads so will leave the first jig on the wall and build a new one.
> 
> Here's a picture of the type of tread we're making.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And what it will look like when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I should add the whole benefit of these jigs is to be able to just put the jig on the saw and make treads with out having to do a lot of setting things up.
> If all your making is one set a wheels the way Toys and Joys will do just fine.
> 
> As the pictures will show I set it to an angle I want [Hummer treads] for the left side tread.
> I then clamp it down drive in two screws and then drill a couple a 1/4" holes and place some dowels in them so now I will be able to find this angle setting again in seconds.
> 
> Then by taking out the screws and doing the same for the right angle I'm all set to make the angled treads for the Hummer and many other treads.
> 
> Once the dowel holes are made I can switch from one angle to another in the time it takes to take out 4 screws take out the dowels and then place them in the new hole settings and screw them down.
> 
> So the *biggest difference* from the first jig is adding the wings to the sides, so you have some where to add the dowels and the screws.
> 
> *The biggest trick to using this jig is getting the center of the tire set with the cut of the saw blade.
> *
> 
> Set to make right side treads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set to make left side treads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's the straight cutter jig on the wall.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't make this big enough for tractor wheels as I'm not planning on building any in the near future but hey you never know, I hadn't planned on a sub either. LOL
> 
> Here's some wheels made with the jig.
Click to expand...

Didn't do it for you Dutchy but you did ask.
Been needing a new jig and can't seem to get up the gumption to start a new truck, car,boat, or what ever so got playing with this here jig.
It's been in the back of my mind for a while so build it and make room for something else. lol
In my small and I mean small shop there's only room for one small contractors saw so have to make do, but I love my Dewalt contractors saw so all is good!!!


----------



## Northwest29

htl said:


> *New Wheel Making Jig #2 For Angled Treads *
> 
> After posting my last wheel making jig Duchy posted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A nice jig, not that sophisticated as Ducky s one, but perfect for his task. Great idea of that saw blade.
> 
> *How about tractor wheels?
> *
> - Dutchy
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the first wheel jig blog.
> .
> Well here's another jig pretty close to the other straight tread jig but able to be moved around for different angle treads.
> 
> I make a lot more straight treads so will leave the first jig on the wall and build a new one.
> 
> Here's a picture of the type of tread we're making.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And what it will look like when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I should add the whole benefit of these jigs is to be able to just put the jig on the saw and make treads with out having to do a lot of setting things up.
> If all your making is one set a wheels the way Toys and Joys will do just fine.
> 
> As the pictures will show I set it to an angle I want [Hummer treads] for the left side tread.
> I then clamp it down drive in two screws and then drill a couple a 1/4" holes and place some dowels in them so now I will be able to find this angle setting again in seconds.
> 
> Then by taking out the screws and doing the same for the right angle I'm all set to make the angled treads for the Hummer and many other treads.
> 
> Once the dowel holes are made I can switch from one angle to another in the time it takes to take out 4 screws take out the dowels and then place them in the new hole settings and screw them down.
> 
> So the *biggest difference* from the first jig is adding the wings to the sides, so you have some where to add the dowels and the screws.
> 
> *The biggest trick to using this jig is getting the center of the tire set with the cut of the saw blade.
> *
> 
> Set to make right side treads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set to make left side treads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's the straight cutter jig on the wall.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't make this big enough for tractor wheels as I'm not planning on building any in the near future but hey you never know, I hadn't planned on a sub either. LOL
> 
> Here's some wheels made with the jig.
Click to expand...

Really a great jig, very creative thinking. Thanks for sharing. Still working at playing the guitar?


----------



## bushmaster

htl said:


> *New Wheel Making Jig #2 For Angled Treads *
> 
> After posting my last wheel making jig Duchy posted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A nice jig, not that sophisticated as Ducky s one, but perfect for his task. Great idea of that saw blade.
> 
> *How about tractor wheels?
> *
> - Dutchy
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the first wheel jig blog.
> .
> Well here's another jig pretty close to the other straight tread jig but able to be moved around for different angle treads.
> 
> I make a lot more straight treads so will leave the first jig on the wall and build a new one.
> 
> Here's a picture of the type of tread we're making.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And what it will look like when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I should add the whole benefit of these jigs is to be able to just put the jig on the saw and make treads with out having to do a lot of setting things up.
> If all your making is one set a wheels the way Toys and Joys will do just fine.
> 
> As the pictures will show I set it to an angle I want [Hummer treads] for the left side tread.
> I then clamp it down drive in two screws and then drill a couple a 1/4" holes and place some dowels in them so now I will be able to find this angle setting again in seconds.
> 
> Then by taking out the screws and doing the same for the right angle I'm all set to make the angled treads for the Hummer and many other treads.
> 
> Once the dowel holes are made I can switch from one angle to another in the time it takes to take out 4 screws take out the dowels and then place them in the new hole settings and screw them down.
> 
> So the *biggest difference* from the first jig is adding the wings to the sides, so you have some where to add the dowels and the screws.
> 
> *The biggest trick to using this jig is getting the center of the tire set with the cut of the saw blade.
> *
> 
> Set to make right side treads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set to make left side treads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's the straight cutter jig on the wall.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't make this big enough for tractor wheels as I'm not planning on building any in the near future but hey you never know, I hadn't planned on a sub either. LOL
> 
> Here's some wheels made with the jig.
Click to expand...

Saw the earlier on and was very interested, will have give it a try as I have did Tremendous Toy trucks templates and it works Ok but this would be much more uniform and easy. Thanks for engineering this device


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *New Wheel Making Jig #2 For Angled Treads *
> 
> After posting my last wheel making jig Duchy posted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A nice jig, not that sophisticated as Ducky s one, but perfect for his task. Great idea of that saw blade.
> 
> *How about tractor wheels?
> *
> - Dutchy
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the first wheel jig blog.
> .
> Well here's another jig pretty close to the other straight tread jig but able to be moved around for different angle treads.
> 
> I make a lot more straight treads so will leave the first jig on the wall and build a new one.
> 
> Here's a picture of the type of tread we're making.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And what it will look like when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I should add the whole benefit of these jigs is to be able to just put the jig on the saw and make treads with out having to do a lot of setting things up.
> If all your making is one set a wheels the way Toys and Joys will do just fine.
> 
> As the pictures will show I set it to an angle I want [Hummer treads] for the left side tread.
> I then clamp it down drive in two screws and then drill a couple a 1/4" holes and place some dowels in them so now I will be able to find this angle setting again in seconds.
> 
> Then by taking out the screws and doing the same for the right angle I'm all set to make the angled treads for the Hummer and many other treads.
> 
> Once the dowel holes are made I can switch from one angle to another in the time it takes to take out 4 screws take out the dowels and then place them in the new hole settings and screw them down.
> 
> So the *biggest difference* from the first jig is adding the wings to the sides, so you have some where to add the dowels and the screws.
> 
> *The biggest trick to using this jig is getting the center of the tire set with the cut of the saw blade.
> *
> 
> Set to make right side treads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set to make left side treads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's the straight cutter jig on the wall.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't make this big enough for tractor wheels as I'm not planning on building any in the near future but hey you never know, I hadn't planned on a sub either. LOL
> 
> Here's some wheels made with the jig.
Click to expand...

Thank you Bruce


----------



## htl

*Rocket Ship *

I was sitting at the computer this morning looking at one of those computer cut out plans for a jet and got thinking what it would look like as a four winged rocket ship so we're at it again building a rocket ship using the same style build as I used for the Submarine.

*And don't any of you faint,* I got up the gumption to dig up my *lathe tools *for the ShopSmith. LOL

Here again this is just an experiment no plans just an idea floating around in my head.





































It's been 25 or more years since I've done any lathe work but it started coming back to me right a way and I must say I had a ball playing on it.
I need to get a dead stop but a bolt screwed in the end got er done.













































It's one mean machine for this simple project. lol


















Now you can see what I have in mind for this here rocket ship.

I really enjoyed playing on the lathe and found out I can do it sitting down so maybe some more lathe projects in the future. COOL!!!!!

And here's the plan that got me started, I know it looks nothing like my build but it did at the start. LOL
It was the shape of the wings that got me thinking.
Turn the main wings up side down and you got a rocket ship. :-]


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Rocket Ship *
> 
> I was sitting at the computer this morning looking at one of those computer cut out plans for a jet and got thinking what it would look like as a four winged rocket ship so we're at it again building a rocket ship using the same style build as I used for the Submarine.
> 
> *And don't any of you faint,* I got up the gumption to dig up my *lathe tools *for the ShopSmith. LOL
> 
> Here again this is just an experiment no plans just an idea floating around in my head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's been 25 or more years since I've done any lathe work but it started coming back to me right a way and I must say I had a ball playing on it.
> I need to get a dead stop but a bolt screwed in the end got er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's one mean machine for this simple project. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you can see what I have in mind for this here rocket ship.
> 
> I really enjoyed playing on the lathe and found out I can do it sitting down so maybe some more lathe projects in the future. COOL!!!!!
> 
> And here's the plan that got me started, I know it looks nothing like my build but it did at the start. LOL
> It was the shape of the wings that got me thinking.
> Turn the main wings up side down and you got a rocket ship. :-]


I would still like to know where you are getting them awesome drawings LMAO :<)) looks
like a great start again


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Rocket Ship *
> 
> I was sitting at the computer this morning looking at one of those computer cut out plans for a jet and got thinking what it would look like as a four winged rocket ship so we're at it again building a rocket ship using the same style build as I used for the Submarine.
> 
> *And don't any of you faint,* I got up the gumption to dig up my *lathe tools *for the ShopSmith. LOL
> 
> Here again this is just an experiment no plans just an idea floating around in my head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's been 25 or more years since I've done any lathe work but it started coming back to me right a way and I must say I had a ball playing on it.
> I need to get a dead stop but a bolt screwed in the end got er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> It's one mean machine for this simple project. lol
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you can see what I have in mind for this here rocket ship.
> 
> I really enjoyed playing on the lathe and found out I can do it sitting down so maybe some more lathe projects in the future. COOL!!!!!
> 
> And here's the plan that got me started, I know it looks nothing like my build but it did at the start. LOL
> It was the shape of the wings that got me thinking.
> Turn the main wings up side down and you got a rocket ship. :-]


Tony I can't really tell you, I think I was looking at Pinterest looking at toy trucks and came on some plans.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Rocket Ship *
> 
> I was sitting at the computer this morning looking at one of those computer cut out plans for a jet and got thinking what it would look like as a four winged rocket ship so we're at it again building a rocket ship using the same style build as I used for the Submarine.
> 
> *And don't any of you faint,* I got up the gumption to dig up my *lathe tools *for the ShopSmith. LOL
> 
> Here again this is just an experiment no plans just an idea floating around in my head.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's been 25 or more years since I've done any lathe work but it started coming back to me right a way and I must say I had a ball playing on it.
> I need to get a dead stop but a bolt screwed in the end got er done.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> It's one mean machine for this simple project. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you can see what I have in mind for this here rocket ship.
> 
> I really enjoyed playing on the lathe and found out I can do it sitting down so maybe some more lathe projects in the future. COOL!!!!!
> 
> And here's the plan that got me started, I know it looks nothing like my build but it did at the start. LOL
> It was the shape of the wings that got me thinking.
> Turn the main wings up side down and you got a rocket ship. :-]


Nice to see you back in turning. Succes with the project. As always I will follow your blog!


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## Redoak49

htl said:


> *Rocket Ship *
> 
> I was sitting at the computer this morning looking at one of those computer cut out plans for a jet and got thinking what it would look like as a four winged rocket ship so we're at it again building a rocket ship using the same style build as I used for the Submarine.
> 
> *And don't any of you faint,* I got up the gumption to dig up my *lathe tools *for the ShopSmith. LOL
> 
> Here again this is just an experiment no plans just an idea floating around in my head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's been 25 or more years since I've done any lathe work but it started coming back to me right a way and I must say I had a ball playing on it.
> I need to get a dead stop but a bolt screwed in the end got er done.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> It's one mean machine for this simple project. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you can see what I have in mind for this here rocket ship.
> 
> I really enjoyed playing on the lathe and found out I can do it sitting down so maybe some more lathe projects in the future. COOL!!!!!
> 
> And here's the plan that got me started, I know it looks nothing like my build but it did at the start. LOL
> It was the shape of the wings that got me thinking.
> Turn the main wings up side down and you got a rocket ship. :-]


Another interesting project and will be watching


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Rocket Ship *
> 
> I was sitting at the computer this morning looking at one of those computer cut out plans for a jet and got thinking what it would look like as a four winged rocket ship so we're at it again building a rocket ship using the same style build as I used for the Submarine.
> 
> *And don't any of you faint,* I got up the gumption to dig up my *lathe tools *for the ShopSmith. LOL
> 
> Here again this is just an experiment no plans just an idea floating around in my head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's been 25 or more years since I've done any lathe work but it started coming back to me right a way and I must say I had a ball playing on it.
> I need to get a dead stop but a bolt screwed in the end got er done.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> It's one mean machine for this simple project. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you can see what I have in mind for this here rocket ship.
> 
> I really enjoyed playing on the lathe and found out I can do it sitting down so maybe some more lathe projects in the future. COOL!!!!!
> 
> And here's the plan that got me started, I know it looks nothing like my build but it did at the start. LOL
> It was the shape of the wings that got me thinking.
> Turn the main wings up side down and you got a rocket ship. :-]


Looks like a "Thunderbirds" project bruce… many happy childhood memories watching the old black & white TV


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Rocket Ship *
> 
> I was sitting at the computer this morning looking at one of those computer cut out plans for a jet and got thinking what it would look like as a four winged rocket ship so we're at it again building a rocket ship using the same style build as I used for the Submarine.
> 
> *And don't any of you faint,* I got up the gumption to dig up my *lathe tools *for the ShopSmith. LOL
> 
> Here again this is just an experiment no plans just an idea floating around in my head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's been 25 or more years since I've done any lathe work but it started coming back to me right a way and I must say I had a ball playing on it.
> I need to get a dead stop but a bolt screwed in the end got er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> It's one mean machine for this simple project. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you can see what I have in mind for this here rocket ship.
> 
> I really enjoyed playing on the lathe and found out I can do it sitting down so maybe some more lathe projects in the future. COOL!!!!!
> 
> And here's the plan that got me started, I know it looks nothing like my build but it did at the start. LOL
> It was the shape of the wings that got me thinking.
> Turn the main wings up side down and you got a rocket ship. :-]


You may be right there crowie.
What's old comes back around and is new again. LOL


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Rocket Ship *
> 
> I was sitting at the computer this morning looking at one of those computer cut out plans for a jet and got thinking what it would look like as a four winged rocket ship so we're at it again building a rocket ship using the same style build as I used for the Submarine.
> 
> *And don't any of you faint,* I got up the gumption to dig up my *lathe tools *for the ShopSmith. LOL
> 
> Here again this is just an experiment no plans just an idea floating around in my head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's been 25 or more years since I've done any lathe work but it started coming back to me right a way and I must say I had a ball playing on it.
> I need to get a dead stop but a bolt screwed in the end got er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's one mean machine for this simple project. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you can see what I have in mind for this here rocket ship.
> 
> I really enjoyed playing on the lathe and found out I can do it sitting down so maybe some more lathe projects in the future. COOL!!!!!
> 
> And here's the plan that got me started, I know it looks nothing like my build but it did at the start. LOL
> It was the shape of the wings that got me thinking.
> Turn the main wings up side down and you got a rocket ship. :-]


Just a few more picture then the project post.




























Love adding the Danish oil to get the wood too pop.
I forgot to add that I used Ebonizing stain on this project and it turned the birch body and poplar wings a nice brown color, no blackening like with oak or cherry.

*It's interesting how this hide the green color in the poplar*.










I ebonized [water based] this brings up the grain so may need to add a couple more coats and steel wool it.


----------



## htl

*New Set A Wheels*

I got my two wheel making jigs made a week or so back but never got around to testing them so it's time to build some wheels.

Will be making some 3" wheels so cut up some 3/4" & 1" lumber to 3 1/4", then split the wood into 3/8" and 1/4".
I use my table saw to split the lumber cutting 1 3/4 or there about then flip and finish splitting the wood, helps keep the hands way from the blade.
This comes out so smooth I don't bother putting it through the plainer where snipe can get hold of it.
I thought I had pictures but?

Then on to the wheel jig for making the treads.

I want to add here that the straight cutting jig makes 5 treads at a time so way fast but when you start making the angled treads they have to be cut one at a time so way slower but as you can see the angled treads can really jass up at tire.
I just make one of these as a test the tire is really wide, so would need to thin them down for most models.

Making of the jig blog here.

Blog showing my splitting of the lumber and making wheels for the Mack truck.


Here's one of my wheel how to's.



So after all the wood gets shaped on the wheel jig it's time to get organized.









Just putting them together to see how they match up.


















I found that I need a little space between treads so made a jig to shape the edge.
I would usually use the table saw for this but wanted to try something a little different and safer.










I used my wheel shaping jig, just used the Shop Smith and a small sanding drum to get er done.



















Next time I will use a finer grit paper for this but it did just fine for now.

I then had to sand all the grooves and then buffed them with this.
It cleans them up nicely.









Then it's time to glue them up and I don't show it but I glue up just one tread at a time to be sure to get the treads spaced just right.


















Then off to the drill press for sanding and buffing.


















We're getting there.










Now we need to drill out for the rims.

To keep everything trued up I drilled a 1/4 hole in the table which is the same as the wheel axle holes, then place a dowel and tire over this so all my drilling will be center of the tire.



















I don't drill all the way through because I like to use the back to keep everything lined up which is harder once it's drilled al the way through.










Now using the dowel again to keep everything lined up for drilling out the center.




























Now I need to play around with making up some wheel hubs.
Here's a couple ideas, we'll see.




























The funny thing is I don't even know what kind of car truck or what these are for.

I should add that both Dutchy and I have other how toe's on tire and wheel making just do a search and find some great blogs.


----------



## robscastle

htl said:


> *New Set A Wheels*
> 
> I got my two wheel making jigs made a week or so back but never got around to testing them so it's time to build some wheels.
> 
> Will be making some 3" wheels so cut up some 3/4" & 1" lumber to 3 1/4", then split the wood into 3/8" and 1/4".
> I use my table saw to split the lumber cutting 1 3/4 or there about then flip and finish splitting the wood, helps keep the hands way from the blade.
> This comes out so smooth I don't bother putting it through the plainer where snipe can get hold of it.
> I thought I had pictures but?
> 
> Then on to the wheel jig for making the treads.
> 
> I want to add here that the straight cutting jig makes 5 treads at a time so way fast but when you start making the angled treads they have to be cut one at a time so way slower but as you can see the angled treads can really jass up at tire.
> I just make one of these as a test the tire is really wide, so would need to thin them down for most models.
> 
> Making of the jig blog here.
> 
> Blog showing my splitting of the lumber and making wheels for the Mack truck.
> 
> 
> Here's one of my wheel how to's.
> 
> 
> 
> So after all the wood gets shaped on the wheel jig it's time to get organized.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just putting them together to see how they match up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found that I need a little space between treads so made a jig to shape the edge.
> I would usually use the table saw for this but wanted to try something a little different and safer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used my wheel shaping jig, just used the Shop Smith and a small sanding drum to get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will use a finer grit paper for this but it did just fine for now.
> 
> I then had to sand all the grooves and then buffed them with this.
> It cleans them up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's time to glue them up and I don't show it but I glue up just one tread at a time to be sure to get the treads spaced just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then off to the drill press for sanding and buffing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We're getting there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to drill out for the rims.
> 
> To keep everything trued up I drilled a 1/4 hole in the table which is the same as the wheel axle holes, then place a dowel and tire over this so all my drilling will be center of the tire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't drill all the way through because I like to use the back to keep everything lined up which is harder once it's drilled al the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now using the dowel again to keep everything lined up for drilling out the center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to play around with making up some wheel hubs.
> Here's a couple ideas, we'll see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The funny thing is I don't even know what kind of car truck or what these are for.
> 
> I should add that both Dutchy and I have other how toe's on tire and wheel making just do a search and find some great blogs.


Amazing stuff htl

Not a chip or chunk out of place anwhere, if you didn't know any better it looks like a real tyre
Your stash reminds me of my mining days and the tyre stock pile at Peak Downs.










The tyres are for Cat coal haulers and are about 3.5m wide and cost about $90 to100K AUD each, so there is a "few" bucks lined up there.

I am off to check out all your blogs, so will report back soon.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *New Set A Wheels*
> 
> I got my two wheel making jigs made a week or so back but never got around to testing them so it's time to build some wheels.
> 
> Will be making some 3" wheels so cut up some 3/4" & 1" lumber to 3 1/4", then split the wood into 3/8" and 1/4".
> I use my table saw to split the lumber cutting 1 3/4 or there about then flip and finish splitting the wood, helps keep the hands way from the blade.
> This comes out so smooth I don't bother putting it through the plainer where snipe can get hold of it.
> I thought I had pictures but?
> 
> Then on to the wheel jig for making the treads.
> 
> I want to add here that the straight cutting jig makes 5 treads at a time so way fast but when you start making the angled treads they have to be cut one at a time so way slower but as you can see the angled treads can really jass up at tire.
> I just make one of these as a test the tire is really wide, so would need to thin them down for most models.
> 
> Making of the jig blog here.
> 
> Blog showing my splitting of the lumber and making wheels for the Mack truck.
> 
> 
> Here's one of my wheel how to's.
> 
> 
> 
> So after all the wood gets shaped on the wheel jig it's time to get organized.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just putting them together to see how they match up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found that I need a little space between treads so made a jig to shape the edge.
> I would usually use the table saw for this but wanted to try something a little different and safer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used my wheel shaping jig, just used the Shop Smith and a small sanding drum to get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will use a finer grit paper for this but it did just fine for now.
> 
> I then had to sand all the grooves and then buffed them with this.
> It cleans them up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's time to glue them up and I don't show it but I glue up just one tread at a time to be sure to get the treads spaced just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then off to the drill press for sanding and buffing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We're getting there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to drill out for the rims.
> 
> To keep everything trued up I drilled a 1/4 hole in the table which is the same as the wheel axle holes, then place a dowel and tire over this so all my drilling will be center of the tire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't drill all the way through because I like to use the back to keep everything lined up which is harder once it's drilled al the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now using the dowel again to keep everything lined up for drilling out the center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to play around with making up some wheel hubs.
> Here's a couple ideas, we'll see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The funny thing is I don't even know what kind of car truck or what these are for.
> 
> I should add that both Dutchy and I have other how toe's on tire and wheel making just do a search and find some great blogs.


That's a huge amount of work Bruce,

*BUT WOW what a brilliant result!!!!*


----------



## hunter71

htl said:


> *New Set A Wheels*
> 
> I got my two wheel making jigs made a week or so back but never got around to testing them so it's time to build some wheels.
> 
> Will be making some 3" wheels so cut up some 3/4" & 1" lumber to 3 1/4", then split the wood into 3/8" and 1/4".
> I use my table saw to split the lumber cutting 1 3/4 or there about then flip and finish splitting the wood, helps keep the hands way from the blade.
> This comes out so smooth I don't bother putting it through the plainer where snipe can get hold of it.
> I thought I had pictures but?
> 
> Then on to the wheel jig for making the treads.
> 
> I want to add here that the straight cutting jig makes 5 treads at a time so way fast but when you start making the angled treads they have to be cut one at a time so way slower but as you can see the angled treads can really jass up at tire.
> I just make one of these as a test the tire is really wide, so would need to thin them down for most models.
> 
> Making of the jig blog here.
> 
> Blog showing my splitting of the lumber and making wheels for the Mack truck.
> 
> 
> Here's one of my wheel how to's.
> 
> 
> 
> So after all the wood gets shaped on the wheel jig it's time to get organized.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just putting them together to see how they match up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found that I need a little space between treads so made a jig to shape the edge.
> I would usually use the table saw for this but wanted to try something a little different and safer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used my wheel shaping jig, just used the Shop Smith and a small sanding drum to get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will use a finer grit paper for this but it did just fine for now.
> 
> I then had to sand all the grooves and then buffed them with this.
> It cleans them up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's time to glue them up and I don't show it but I glue up just one tread at a time to be sure to get the treads spaced just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then off to the drill press for sanding and buffing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We're getting there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to drill out for the rims.
> 
> To keep everything trued up I drilled a 1/4 hole in the table which is the same as the wheel axle holes, then place a dowel and tire over this so all my drilling will be center of the tire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't drill all the way through because I like to use the back to keep everything lined up which is harder once it's drilled al the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now using the dowel again to keep everything lined up for drilling out the center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to play around with making up some wheel hubs.
> Here's a couple ideas, we'll see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The funny thing is I don't even know what kind of car truck or what these are for.
> 
> I should add that both Dutchy and I have other how toe's on tire and wheel making just do a search and find some great blogs.


YES, fantastic job.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *New Set A Wheels*
> 
> I got my two wheel making jigs made a week or so back but never got around to testing them so it's time to build some wheels.
> 
> Will be making some 3" wheels so cut up some 3/4" & 1" lumber to 3 1/4", then split the wood into 3/8" and 1/4".
> I use my table saw to split the lumber cutting 1 3/4 or there about then flip and finish splitting the wood, helps keep the hands way from the blade.
> This comes out so smooth I don't bother putting it through the plainer where snipe can get hold of it.
> I thought I had pictures but?
> 
> Then on to the wheel jig for making the treads.
> 
> I want to add here that the straight cutting jig makes 5 treads at a time so way fast but when you start making the angled treads they have to be cut one at a time so way slower but as you can see the angled treads can really jass up at tire.
> I just make one of these as a test the tire is really wide, so would need to thin them down for most models.
> 
> Making of the jig blog here.
> 
> Blog showing my splitting of the lumber and making wheels for the Mack truck.
> 
> 
> Here's one of my wheel how to's.
> 
> 
> 
> So after all the wood gets shaped on the wheel jig it's time to get organized.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just putting them together to see how they match up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found that I need a little space between treads so made a jig to shape the edge.
> I would usually use the table saw for this but wanted to try something a little different and safer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used my wheel shaping jig, just used the Shop Smith and a small sanding drum to get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will use a finer grit paper for this but it did just fine for now.
> 
> I then had to sand all the grooves and then buffed them with this.
> It cleans them up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's time to glue them up and I don't show it but I glue up just one tread at a time to be sure to get the treads spaced just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then off to the drill press for sanding and buffing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We're getting there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to drill out for the rims.
> 
> To keep everything trued up I drilled a 1/4 hole in the table which is the same as the wheel axle holes, then place a dowel and tire over this so all my drilling will be center of the tire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't drill all the way through because I like to use the back to keep everything lined up which is harder once it's drilled al the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now using the dowel again to keep everything lined up for drilling out the center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to play around with making up some wheel hubs.
> Here's a couple ideas, we'll see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The funny thing is I don't even know what kind of car truck or what these are for.
> 
> I should add that both Dutchy and I have other how toe's on tire and wheel making just do a search and find some great blogs.


Crowie I've been trying to find ways to get a great looking wheel with out to much invested but to get the staggered treads you got to put in the time.
Castle they're no way near perfect but with a new saw blade and take you time they can come out pretty good.
Poplar isn't the best wood for tires [maple] but that's what I had on hand and this was only a test but now that their done I need to figure out a project for them to go on. lol

Thanks Hunter!!!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *New Set A Wheels*
> 
> I got my two wheel making jigs made a week or so back but never got around to testing them so it's time to build some wheels.
> 
> Will be making some 3" wheels so cut up some 3/4" & 1" lumber to 3 1/4", then split the wood into 3/8" and 1/4".
> I use my table saw to split the lumber cutting 1 3/4 or there about then flip and finish splitting the wood, helps keep the hands way from the blade.
> This comes out so smooth I don't bother putting it through the plainer where snipe can get hold of it.
> I thought I had pictures but?
> 
> Then on to the wheel jig for making the treads.
> 
> I want to add here that the straight cutting jig makes 5 treads at a time so way fast but when you start making the angled treads they have to be cut one at a time so way slower but as you can see the angled treads can really jass up at tire.
> I just make one of these as a test the tire is really wide, so would need to thin them down for most models.
> 
> Making of the jig blog here.
> 
> Blog showing my splitting of the lumber and making wheels for the Mack truck.
> 
> 
> Here's one of my wheel how to's.
> 
> 
> 
> So after all the wood gets shaped on the wheel jig it's time to get organized.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just putting them together to see how they match up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found that I need a little space between treads so made a jig to shape the edge.
> I would usually use the table saw for this but wanted to try something a little different and safer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used my wheel shaping jig, just used the Shop Smith and a small sanding drum to get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will use a finer grit paper for this but it did just fine for now.
> 
> I then had to sand all the grooves and then buffed them with this.
> It cleans them up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's time to glue them up and I don't show it but I glue up just one tread at a time to be sure to get the treads spaced just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then off to the drill press for sanding and buffing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We're getting there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to drill out for the rims.
> 
> To keep everything trued up I drilled a 1/4 hole in the table which is the same as the wheel axle holes, then place a dowel and tire over this so all my drilling will be center of the tire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't drill all the way through because I like to use the back to keep everything lined up which is harder once it's drilled al the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now using the dowel again to keep everything lined up for drilling out the center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to play around with making up some wheel hubs.
> Here's a couple ideas, we'll see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The funny thing is I don't even know what kind of car truck or what these are for.
> 
> I should add that both Dutchy and I have other how toe's on tire and wheel making just do a search and find some great blogs.


*#4*, Those staggered treads are the *bees knees *(in tyre speak).

The beauty of those wheels kept distracting me in the methodology, machinery and jig you used. Might have to come back and read it a few more times. Definitely filed away in my wheel making library.

You keep giving me excuses to envy that *SS* more and more…


----------



## bushmaster

htl said:


> *New Set A Wheels*
> 
> I got my two wheel making jigs made a week or so back but never got around to testing them so it's time to build some wheels.
> 
> Will be making some 3" wheels so cut up some 3/4" & 1" lumber to 3 1/4", then split the wood into 3/8" and 1/4".
> I use my table saw to split the lumber cutting 1 3/4 or there about then flip and finish splitting the wood, helps keep the hands way from the blade.
> This comes out so smooth I don't bother putting it through the plainer where snipe can get hold of it.
> I thought I had pictures but?
> 
> Then on to the wheel jig for making the treads.
> 
> I want to add here that the straight cutting jig makes 5 treads at a time so way fast but when you start making the angled treads they have to be cut one at a time so way slower but as you can see the angled treads can really jass up at tire.
> I just make one of these as a test the tire is really wide, so would need to thin them down for most models.
> 
> Making of the jig blog here.
> 
> Blog showing my splitting of the lumber and making wheels for the Mack truck.
> 
> 
> Here's one of my wheel how to's.
> 
> 
> 
> So after all the wood gets shaped on the wheel jig it's time to get organized.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just putting them together to see how they match up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found that I need a little space between treads so made a jig to shape the edge.
> I would usually use the table saw for this but wanted to try something a little different and safer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used my wheel shaping jig, just used the Shop Smith and a small sanding drum to get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will use a finer grit paper for this but it did just fine for now.
> 
> I then had to sand all the grooves and then buffed them with this.
> It cleans them up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's time to glue them up and I don't show it but I glue up just one tread at a time to be sure to get the treads spaced just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then off to the drill press for sanding and buffing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We're getting there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to drill out for the rims.
> 
> To keep everything trued up I drilled a 1/4 hole in the table which is the same as the wheel axle holes, then place a dowel and tire over this so all my drilling will be center of the tire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't drill all the way through because I like to use the back to keep everything lined up which is harder once it's drilled al the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now using the dowel again to keep everything lined up for drilling out the center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to play around with making up some wheel hubs.
> Here's a couple ideas, we'll see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The funny thing is I don't even know what kind of car truck or what these are for.
> 
> I should add that both Dutchy and I have other how toe's on tire and wheel making just do a search and find some great blogs.


Thanks for the posting and idea's you share, will be making an indexed jig similar to yours when I have time to get back in the shop to get more accurate saw cuts.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *New Set A Wheels*
> 
> I got my two wheel making jigs made a week or so back but never got around to testing them so it's time to build some wheels.
> 
> Will be making some 3" wheels so cut up some 3/4" & 1" lumber to 3 1/4", then split the wood into 3/8" and 1/4".
> I use my table saw to split the lumber cutting 1 3/4 or there about then flip and finish splitting the wood, helps keep the hands way from the blade.
> This comes out so smooth I don't bother putting it through the plainer where snipe can get hold of it.
> I thought I had pictures but?
> 
> Then on to the wheel jig for making the treads.
> 
> I want to add here that the straight cutting jig makes 5 treads at a time so way fast but when you start making the angled treads they have to be cut one at a time so way slower but as you can see the angled treads can really jass up at tire.
> I just make one of these as a test the tire is really wide, so would need to thin them down for most models.
> 
> Making of the jig blog here.
> 
> Blog showing my splitting of the lumber and making wheels for the Mack truck.
> 
> 
> Here's one of my wheel how to's.
> 
> 
> 
> So after all the wood gets shaped on the wheel jig it's time to get organized.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just putting them together to see how they match up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found that I need a little space between treads so made a jig to shape the edge.
> I would usually use the table saw for this but wanted to try something a little different and safer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used my wheel shaping jig, just used the Shop Smith and a small sanding drum to get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will use a finer grit paper for this but it did just fine for now.
> 
> I then had to sand all the grooves and then buffed them with this.
> It cleans them up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's time to glue them up and I don't show it but I glue up just one tread at a time to be sure to get the treads spaced just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then off to the drill press for sanding and buffing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We're getting there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to drill out for the rims.
> 
> To keep everything trued up I drilled a 1/4 hole in the table which is the same as the wheel axle holes, then place a dowel and tire over this so all my drilling will be center of the tire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't drill all the way through because I like to use the back to keep everything lined up which is harder once it's drilled al the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now using the dowel again to keep everything lined up for drilling out the center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to play around with making up some wheel hubs.
> Here's a couple ideas, we'll see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The funny thing is I don't even know what kind of car truck or what these are for.
> 
> I should add that both Dutchy and I have other how toe's on tire and wheel making just do a search and find some great blogs.


Bushmaster
I would have liked to have started out with a smaller saw blade but needed 36 teeth for the Toy and Joys models and had a dewalt blade [7 1/4"] so that was my pattern..
Will be on the out look for a smaller blade and would then use that as my indexer and not a driller out one of wood.


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *New Set A Wheels*
> 
> I got my two wheel making jigs made a week or so back but never got around to testing them so it's time to build some wheels.
> 
> Will be making some 3" wheels so cut up some 3/4" & 1" lumber to 3 1/4", then split the wood into 3/8" and 1/4".
> I use my table saw to split the lumber cutting 1 3/4 or there about then flip and finish splitting the wood, helps keep the hands way from the blade.
> This comes out so smooth I don't bother putting it through the plainer where snipe can get hold of it.
> I thought I had pictures but?
> 
> Then on to the wheel jig for making the treads.
> 
> I want to add here that the straight cutting jig makes 5 treads at a time so way fast but when you start making the angled treads they have to be cut one at a time so way slower but as you can see the angled treads can really jass up at tire.
> I just make one of these as a test the tire is really wide, so would need to thin them down for most models.
> 
> Making of the jig blog here.
> 
> Blog showing my splitting of the lumber and making wheels for the Mack truck.
> 
> 
> Here's one of my wheel how to's.
> 
> 
> 
> So after all the wood gets shaped on the wheel jig it's time to get organized.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just putting them together to see how they match up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found that I need a little space between treads so made a jig to shape the edge.
> I would usually use the table saw for this but wanted to try something a little different and safer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used my wheel shaping jig, just used the Shop Smith and a small sanding drum to get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will use a finer grit paper for this but it did just fine for now.
> 
> I then had to sand all the grooves and then buffed them with this.
> It cleans them up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's time to glue them up and I don't show it but I glue up just one tread at a time to be sure to get the treads spaced just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then off to the drill press for sanding and buffing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We're getting there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to drill out for the rims.
> 
> To keep everything trued up I drilled a 1/4 hole in the table which is the same as the wheel axle holes, then place a dowel and tire over this so all my drilling will be center of the tire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't drill all the way through because I like to use the back to keep everything lined up which is harder once it's drilled al the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now using the dowel again to keep everything lined up for drilling out the center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to play around with making up some wheel hubs.
> Here's a couple ideas, we'll see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The funny thing is I don't even know what kind of car truck or what these are for.
> 
> I should add that both Dutchy and I have other how toe's on tire and wheel making just do a search and find some great blogs.


Very Good!


----------



## sras

htl said:


> *New Set A Wheels*
> 
> I got my two wheel making jigs made a week or so back but never got around to testing them so it's time to build some wheels.
> 
> Will be making some 3" wheels so cut up some 3/4" & 1" lumber to 3 1/4", then split the wood into 3/8" and 1/4".
> I use my table saw to split the lumber cutting 1 3/4 or there about then flip and finish splitting the wood, helps keep the hands way from the blade.
> This comes out so smooth I don't bother putting it through the plainer where snipe can get hold of it.
> I thought I had pictures but?
> 
> Then on to the wheel jig for making the treads.
> 
> I want to add here that the straight cutting jig makes 5 treads at a time so way fast but when you start making the angled treads they have to be cut one at a time so way slower but as you can see the angled treads can really jass up at tire.
> I just make one of these as a test the tire is really wide, so would need to thin them down for most models.
> 
> Making of the jig blog here.
> 
> Blog showing my splitting of the lumber and making wheels for the Mack truck.
> 
> 
> Here's one of my wheel how to's.
> 
> 
> 
> So after all the wood gets shaped on the wheel jig it's time to get organized.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just putting them together to see how they match up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found that I need a little space between treads so made a jig to shape the edge.
> I would usually use the table saw for this but wanted to try something a little different and safer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used my wheel shaping jig, just used the Shop Smith and a small sanding drum to get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will use a finer grit paper for this but it did just fine for now.
> 
> I then had to sand all the grooves and then buffed them with this.
> It cleans them up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's time to glue them up and I don't show it but I glue up just one tread at a time to be sure to get the treads spaced just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then off to the drill press for sanding and buffing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We're getting there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to drill out for the rims.
> 
> To keep everything trued up I drilled a 1/4 hole in the table which is the same as the wheel axle holes, then place a dowel and tire over this so all my drilling will be center of the tire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't drill all the way through because I like to use the back to keep everything lined up which is harder once it's drilled al the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now using the dowel again to keep everything lined up for drilling out the center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to play around with making up some wheel hubs.
> Here's a couple ideas, we'll see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The funny thing is I don't even know what kind of car truck or what these are for.
> 
> I should add that both Dutchy and I have other how toe's on tire and wheel making just do a search and find some great blogs.


Wow - they turned out great!


----------



## SouthavenToyMaker

htl said:


> *New Set A Wheels*
> 
> I got my two wheel making jigs made a week or so back but never got around to testing them so it's time to build some wheels.
> 
> Will be making some 3" wheels so cut up some 3/4" & 1" lumber to 3 1/4", then split the wood into 3/8" and 1/4".
> I use my table saw to split the lumber cutting 1 3/4 or there about then flip and finish splitting the wood, helps keep the hands way from the blade.
> This comes out so smooth I don't bother putting it through the plainer where snipe can get hold of it.
> I thought I had pictures but?
> 
> Then on to the wheel jig for making the treads.
> 
> I want to add here that the straight cutting jig makes 5 treads at a time so way fast but when you start making the angled treads they have to be cut one at a time so way slower but as you can see the angled treads can really jass up at tire.
> I just make one of these as a test the tire is really wide, so would need to thin them down for most models.
> 
> Making of the jig blog here.
> 
> Blog showing my splitting of the lumber and making wheels for the Mack truck.
> 
> 
> Here's one of my wheel how to's.
> 
> 
> 
> So after all the wood gets shaped on the wheel jig it's time to get organized.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just putting them together to see how they match up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found that I need a little space between treads so made a jig to shape the edge.
> I would usually use the table saw for this but wanted to try something a little different and safer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used my wheel shaping jig, just used the Shop Smith and a small sanding drum to get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will use a finer grit paper for this but it did just fine for now.
> 
> I then had to sand all the grooves and then buffed them with this.
> It cleans them up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's time to glue them up and I don't show it but I glue up just one tread at a time to be sure to get the treads spaced just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then off to the drill press for sanding and buffing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We're getting there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to drill out for the rims.
> 
> To keep everything trued up I drilled a 1/4 hole in the table which is the same as the wheel axle holes, then place a dowel and tire over this so all my drilling will be center of the tire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't drill all the way through because I like to use the back to keep everything lined up which is harder once it's drilled al the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now using the dowel again to keep everything lined up for drilling out the center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to play around with making up some wheel hubs.
> Here's a couple ideas, we'll see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The funny thing is I don't even know what kind of car truck or what these are for.
> 
> I should add that both Dutchy and I have other how toe's on tire and wheel making just do a search and find some great blogs.


I believe I will be making your jig soon. The tires look amazing. What blade are you using to cut the kerfs?


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *New Set A Wheels*
> 
> I got my two wheel making jigs made a week or so back but never got around to testing them so it's time to build some wheels.
> 
> Will be making some 3" wheels so cut up some 3/4" & 1" lumber to 3 1/4", then split the wood into 3/8" and 1/4".
> I use my table saw to split the lumber cutting 1 3/4 or there about then flip and finish splitting the wood, helps keep the hands way from the blade.
> This comes out so smooth I don't bother putting it through the plainer where snipe can get hold of it.
> I thought I had pictures but?
> 
> Then on to the wheel jig for making the treads.
> 
> I want to add here that the straight cutting jig makes 5 treads at a time so way fast but when you start making the angled treads they have to be cut one at a time so way slower but as you can see the angled treads can really jass up at tire.
> I just make one of these as a test the tire is really wide, so would need to thin them down for most models.
> 
> Making of the jig blog here.
> 
> Blog showing my splitting of the lumber and making wheels for the Mack truck.
> 
> 
> Here's one of my wheel how to's.
> 
> 
> 
> So after all the wood gets shaped on the wheel jig it's time to get organized.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just putting them together to see how they match up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found that I need a little space between treads so made a jig to shape the edge.
> I would usually use the table saw for this but wanted to try something a little different and safer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used my wheel shaping jig, just used the Shop Smith and a small sanding drum to get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will use a finer grit paper for this but it did just fine for now.
> 
> I then had to sand all the grooves and then buffed them with this.
> It cleans them up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's time to glue them up and I don't show it but I glue up just one tread at a time to be sure to get the treads spaced just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then off to the drill press for sanding and buffing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We're getting there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to drill out for the rims.
> 
> To keep everything trued up I drilled a 1/4 hole in the table which is the same as the wheel axle holes, then place a dowel and tire over this so all my drilling will be center of the tire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't drill all the way through because I like to use the back to keep everything lined up which is harder once it's drilled al the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now using the dowel again to keep everything lined up for drilling out the center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to play around with making up some wheel hubs.
> Here's a couple ideas, we'll see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The funny thing is I don't even know what kind of car truck or what these are for.
> 
> I should add that both Dutchy and I have other how toe's on tire and wheel making just do a search and find some great blogs.


Nice to see and nice to read. Great looking wheels.

A little idea for indexing other than 24 steps. Try to get some old different bicycle gears as supplement to your saw blades.










Another option is to use an old timebelt with is glued around a wooden circle plate.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *New Set A Wheels*
> 
> I got my two wheel making jigs made a week or so back but never got around to testing them so it's time to build some wheels.
> 
> Will be making some 3" wheels so cut up some 3/4" & 1" lumber to 3 1/4", then split the wood into 3/8" and 1/4".
> I use my table saw to split the lumber cutting 1 3/4 or there about then flip and finish splitting the wood, helps keep the hands way from the blade.
> This comes out so smooth I don't bother putting it through the plainer where snipe can get hold of it.
> I thought I had pictures but?
> 
> Then on to the wheel jig for making the treads.
> 
> I want to add here that the straight cutting jig makes 5 treads at a time so way fast but when you start making the angled treads they have to be cut one at a time so way slower but as you can see the angled treads can really jass up at tire.
> I just make one of these as a test the tire is really wide, so would need to thin them down for most models.
> 
> Making of the jig blog here.
> 
> Blog showing my splitting of the lumber and making wheels for the Mack truck.
> 
> 
> Here's one of my wheel how to's.
> 
> 
> 
> So after all the wood gets shaped on the wheel jig it's time to get organized.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just putting them together to see how they match up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found that I need a little space between treads so made a jig to shape the edge.
> I would usually use the table saw for this but wanted to try something a little different and safer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used my wheel shaping jig, just used the Shop Smith and a small sanding drum to get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will use a finer grit paper for this but it did just fine for now.
> 
> I then had to sand all the grooves and then buffed them with this.
> It cleans them up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's time to glue them up and I don't show it but I glue up just one tread at a time to be sure to get the treads spaced just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then off to the drill press for sanding and buffing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We're getting there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to drill out for the rims.
> 
> To keep everything trued up I drilled a 1/4 hole in the table which is the same as the wheel axle holes, then place a dowel and tire over this so all my drilling will be center of the tire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't drill all the way through because I like to use the back to keep everything lined up which is harder once it's drilled al the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now using the dowel again to keep everything lined up for drilling out the center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to play around with making up some wheel hubs.
> Here's a couple ideas, we'll see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The funny thing is I don't even know what kind of car truck or what these are for.
> 
> I should add that both Dutchy and I have other how toe's on tire and wheel making just do a search and find some great blogs.


Dutchy that would work for sure.
If I was going to be building many more it would pay to get on Ebay and just buy the real thing but what fun is that. lol


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *New Set A Wheels*
> 
> I got my two wheel making jigs made a week or so back but never got around to testing them so it's time to build some wheels.
> 
> Will be making some 3" wheels so cut up some 3/4" & 1" lumber to 3 1/4", then split the wood into 3/8" and 1/4".
> I use my table saw to split the lumber cutting 1 3/4 or there about then flip and finish splitting the wood, helps keep the hands way from the blade.
> This comes out so smooth I don't bother putting it through the plainer where snipe can get hold of it.
> I thought I had pictures but?
> 
> Then on to the wheel jig for making the treads.
> 
> I want to add here that the straight cutting jig makes 5 treads at a time so way fast but when you start making the angled treads they have to be cut one at a time so way slower but as you can see the angled treads can really jass up at tire.
> I just make one of these as a test the tire is really wide, so would need to thin them down for most models.
> 
> Making of the jig blog here.
> 
> Blog showing my splitting of the lumber and making wheels for the Mack truck.
> 
> 
> Here's one of my wheel how to's.
> 
> 
> 
> So after all the wood gets shaped on the wheel jig it's time to get organized.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just putting them together to see how they match up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found that I need a little space between treads so made a jig to shape the edge.
> I would usually use the table saw for this but wanted to try something a little different and safer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used my wheel shaping jig, just used the Shop Smith and a small sanding drum to get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will use a finer grit paper for this but it did just fine for now.
> 
> I then had to sand all the grooves and then buffed them with this.
> It cleans them up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's time to glue them up and I don't show it but I glue up just one tread at a time to be sure to get the treads spaced just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then off to the drill press for sanding and buffing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We're getting there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to drill out for the rims.
> 
> To keep everything trued up I drilled a 1/4 hole in the table which is the same as the wheel axle holes, then place a dowel and tire over this so all my drilling will be center of the tire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't drill all the way through because I like to use the back to keep everything lined up which is harder once it's drilled al the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now using the dowel again to keep everything lined up for drilling out the center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to play around with making up some wheel hubs.
> Here's a couple ideas, we'll see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The funny thing is I don't even know what kind of car truck or what these are for.
> 
> I should add that both Dutchy and I have other how toe's on tire and wheel making just do a search and find some great blogs.


As for the saw blade it was a 
Diablo 7-1/4 in. 24-Tooth Demo Demon Tracking Point Amped Saw Blade 
from Home Depot *super sharp* and cuts a really flat bottom for such a cheap blade $15.

I usually buy Dewalt blades but this one was looking like it would cut a flat bottom, would have liked more teeth but it worked just fine.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *New Set A Wheels*
> 
> I got my two wheel making jigs made a week or so back but never got around to testing them so it's time to build some wheels.
> 
> Will be making some 3" wheels so cut up some 3/4" & 1" lumber to 3 1/4", then split the wood into 3/8" and 1/4".
> I use my table saw to split the lumber cutting 1 3/4 or there about then flip and finish splitting the wood, helps keep the hands way from the blade.
> This comes out so smooth I don't bother putting it through the plainer where snipe can get hold of it.
> I thought I had pictures but?
> 
> Then on to the wheel jig for making the treads.
> 
> I want to add here that the straight cutting jig makes 5 treads at a time so way fast but when you start making the angled treads they have to be cut one at a time so way slower but as you can see the angled treads can really jass up at tire.
> I just make one of these as a test the tire is really wide, so would need to thin them down for most models.
> 
> Making of the jig blog here.
> 
> Blog showing my splitting of the lumber and making wheels for the Mack truck.
> 
> 
> Here's one of my wheel how to's.
> 
> 
> 
> So after all the wood gets shaped on the wheel jig it's time to get organized.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just putting them together to see how they match up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found that I need a little space between treads so made a jig to shape the edge.
> I would usually use the table saw for this but wanted to try something a little different and safer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used my wheel shaping jig, just used the Shop Smith and a small sanding drum to get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will use a finer grit paper for this but it did just fine for now.
> 
> I then had to sand all the grooves and then buffed them with this.
> It cleans them up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's time to glue them up and I don't show it but I glue up just one tread at a time to be sure to get the treads spaced just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then off to the drill press for sanding and buffing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We're getting there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to drill out for the rims.
> 
> To keep everything trued up I drilled a 1/4 hole in the table which is the same as the wheel axle holes, then place a dowel and tire over this so all my drilling will be center of the tire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't drill all the way through because I like to use the back to keep everything lined up which is harder once it's drilled al the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now using the dowel again to keep everything lined up for drilling out the center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to play around with making up some wheel hubs.
> Here's a couple ideas, we'll see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The funny thing is I don't even know what kind of car truck or what these are for.
> 
> I should add that both Dutchy and I have other how toe's on tire and wheel making just do a search and find some great blogs.





> ..., would have liked more teeth but it would just fine.
> - htl


Damn *#4*, How'd you find out about my upcoming full dentures????



> ... bicycle gears as supplement to your saw blades….
> 
> - Dutchy


Hey *Dutchy*... we in the Western world now have things we call *cars*....

But not a bad idea!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *New Set A Wheels*
> 
> I got my two wheel making jigs made a week or so back but never got around to testing them so it's time to build some wheels.
> 
> Will be making some 3" wheels so cut up some 3/4" & 1" lumber to 3 1/4", then split the wood into 3/8" and 1/4".
> I use my table saw to split the lumber cutting 1 3/4 or there about then flip and finish splitting the wood, helps keep the hands way from the blade.
> This comes out so smooth I don't bother putting it through the plainer where snipe can get hold of it.
> I thought I had pictures but?
> 
> Then on to the wheel jig for making the treads.
> 
> I want to add here that the straight cutting jig makes 5 treads at a time so way fast but when you start making the angled treads they have to be cut one at a time so way slower but as you can see the angled treads can really jass up at tire.
> I just make one of these as a test the tire is really wide, so would need to thin them down for most models.
> 
> Making of the jig blog here.
> 
> Blog showing my splitting of the lumber and making wheels for the Mack truck.
> 
> 
> Here's one of my wheel how to's.
> 
> 
> 
> So after all the wood gets shaped on the wheel jig it's time to get organized.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just putting them together to see how they match up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found that I need a little space between treads so made a jig to shape the edge.
> I would usually use the table saw for this but wanted to try something a little different and safer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used my wheel shaping jig, just used the Shop Smith and a small sanding drum to get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will use a finer grit paper for this but it did just fine for now.
> 
> I then had to sand all the grooves and then buffed them with this.
> It cleans them up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's time to glue them up and I don't show it but I glue up just one tread at a time to be sure to get the treads spaced just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then off to the drill press for sanding and buffing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We're getting there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to drill out for the rims.
> 
> To keep everything trued up I drilled a 1/4 hole in the table which is the same as the wheel axle holes, then place a dowel and tire over this so all my drilling will be center of the tire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't drill all the way through because I like to use the back to keep everything lined up which is harder once it's drilled al the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now using the dowel again to keep everything lined up for drilling out the center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to play around with making up some wheel hubs.
> Here's a couple ideas, we'll see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The funny thing is I don't even know what kind of car truck or what these are for.
> 
> I should add that both Dutchy and I have other how toe's on tire and wheel making just do a search and find some great blogs.


Ducky We use the same dentist. :-}


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *New Set A Wheels*
> 
> I got my two wheel making jigs made a week or so back but never got around to testing them so it's time to build some wheels.
> 
> Will be making some 3" wheels so cut up some 3/4" & 1" lumber to 3 1/4", then split the wood into 3/8" and 1/4".
> I use my table saw to split the lumber cutting 1 3/4 or there about then flip and finish splitting the wood, helps keep the hands way from the blade.
> This comes out so smooth I don't bother putting it through the plainer where snipe can get hold of it.
> I thought I had pictures but?
> 
> Then on to the wheel jig for making the treads.
> 
> I want to add here that the straight cutting jig makes 5 treads at a time so way fast but when you start making the angled treads they have to be cut one at a time so way slower but as you can see the angled treads can really jass up at tire.
> I just make one of these as a test the tire is really wide, so would need to thin them down for most models.
> 
> Making of the jig blog here.
> 
> Blog showing my splitting of the lumber and making wheels for the Mack truck.
> 
> 
> Here's one of my wheel how to's.
> 
> 
> 
> So after all the wood gets shaped on the wheel jig it's time to get organized.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just putting them together to see how they match up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found that I need a little space between treads so made a jig to shape the edge.
> I would usually use the table saw for this but wanted to try something a little different and safer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used my wheel shaping jig, just used the Shop Smith and a small sanding drum to get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will use a finer grit paper for this but it did just fine for now.
> 
> I then had to sand all the grooves and then buffed them with this.
> It cleans them up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's time to glue them up and I don't show it but I glue up just one tread at a time to be sure to get the treads spaced just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then off to the drill press for sanding and buffing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We're getting there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to drill out for the rims.
> 
> To keep everything trued up I drilled a 1/4 hole in the table which is the same as the wheel axle holes, then place a dowel and tire over this so all my drilling will be center of the tire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't drill all the way through because I like to use the back to keep everything lined up which is harder once it's drilled al the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now using the dowel again to keep everything lined up for drilling out the center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to play around with making up some wheel hubs.
> Here's a couple ideas, we'll see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The funny thing is I don't even know what kind of car truck or what these are for.
> 
> I should add that both Dutchy and I have other how toe's on tire and wheel making just do a search and find some great blogs.


Did a little more work on the wheels.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *New Set A Wheels*
> 
> I got my two wheel making jigs made a week or so back but never got around to testing them so it's time to build some wheels.
> 
> Will be making some 3" wheels so cut up some 3/4" & 1" lumber to 3 1/4", then split the wood into 3/8" and 1/4".
> I use my table saw to split the lumber cutting 1 3/4 or there about then flip and finish splitting the wood, helps keep the hands way from the blade.
> This comes out so smooth I don't bother putting it through the plainer where snipe can get hold of it.
> I thought I had pictures but?
> 
> Then on to the wheel jig for making the treads.
> 
> I want to add here that the straight cutting jig makes 5 treads at a time so way fast but when you start making the angled treads they have to be cut one at a time so way slower but as you can see the angled treads can really jass up at tire.
> I just make one of these as a test the tire is really wide, so would need to thin them down for most models.
> 
> Making of the jig blog here.
> 
> Blog showing my splitting of the lumber and making wheels for the Mack truck.
> 
> 
> Here's one of my wheel how to's.
> 
> 
> 
> So after all the wood gets shaped on the wheel jig it's time to get organized.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just putting them together to see how they match up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found that I need a little space between treads so made a jig to shape the edge.
> I would usually use the table saw for this but wanted to try something a little different and safer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used my wheel shaping jig, just used the Shop Smith and a small sanding drum to get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will use a finer grit paper for this but it did just fine for now.
> 
> I then had to sand all the grooves and then buffed them with this.
> It cleans them up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's time to glue them up and I don't show it but I glue up just one tread at a time to be sure to get the treads spaced just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then off to the drill press for sanding and buffing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We're getting there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to drill out for the rims.
> 
> To keep everything trued up I drilled a 1/4 hole in the table which is the same as the wheel axle holes, then place a dowel and tire over this so all my drilling will be center of the tire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't drill all the way through because I like to use the back to keep everything lined up which is harder once it's drilled al the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now using the dowel again to keep everything lined up for drilling out the center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to play around with making up some wheel hubs.
> Here's a couple ideas, we'll see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The funny thing is I don't even know what kind of car truck or what these are for.
> 
> I should add that both Dutchy and I have other how toe's on tire and wheel making just do a search and find some great blogs.


Superb Bruce… they look real, well done sir!!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *New Set A Wheels*
> 
> I got my two wheel making jigs made a week or so back but never got around to testing them so it's time to build some wheels.
> 
> Will be making some 3" wheels so cut up some 3/4" & 1" lumber to 3 1/4", then split the wood into 3/8" and 1/4".
> I use my table saw to split the lumber cutting 1 3/4 or there about then flip and finish splitting the wood, helps keep the hands way from the blade.
> This comes out so smooth I don't bother putting it through the plainer where snipe can get hold of it.
> I thought I had pictures but?
> 
> Then on to the wheel jig for making the treads.
> 
> I want to add here that the straight cutting jig makes 5 treads at a time so way fast but when you start making the angled treads they have to be cut one at a time so way slower but as you can see the angled treads can really jass up at tire.
> I just make one of these as a test the tire is really wide, so would need to thin them down for most models.
> 
> Making of the jig blog here.
> 
> Blog showing my splitting of the lumber and making wheels for the Mack truck.
> 
> 
> Here's one of my wheel how to's.
> 
> 
> 
> So after all the wood gets shaped on the wheel jig it's time to get organized.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just putting them together to see how they match up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found that I need a little space between treads so made a jig to shape the edge.
> I would usually use the table saw for this but wanted to try something a little different and safer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used my wheel shaping jig, just used the Shop Smith and a small sanding drum to get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will use a finer grit paper for this but it did just fine for now.
> 
> I then had to sand all the grooves and then buffed them with this.
> It cleans them up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's time to glue them up and I don't show it but I glue up just one tread at a time to be sure to get the treads spaced just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then off to the drill press for sanding and buffing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We're getting there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to drill out for the rims.
> 
> To keep everything trued up I drilled a 1/4 hole in the table which is the same as the wheel axle holes, then place a dowel and tire over this so all my drilling will be center of the tire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't drill all the way through because I like to use the back to keep everything lined up which is harder once it's drilled al the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now using the dowel again to keep everything lined up for drilling out the center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to play around with making up some wheel hubs.
> Here's a couple ideas, we'll see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The funny thing is I don't even know what kind of car truck or what these are for.
> 
> I should add that both Dutchy and I have other how toe's on tire and wheel making just do a search and find some great blogs.


Than's Crowie!!!
Still haven't figured out where they're going. LOL


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *New Set A Wheels*
> 
> I got my two wheel making jigs made a week or so back but never got around to testing them so it's time to build some wheels.
> 
> Will be making some 3" wheels so cut up some 3/4" & 1" lumber to 3 1/4", then split the wood into 3/8" and 1/4".
> I use my table saw to split the lumber cutting 1 3/4 or there about then flip and finish splitting the wood, helps keep the hands way from the blade.
> This comes out so smooth I don't bother putting it through the plainer where snipe can get hold of it.
> I thought I had pictures but?
> 
> Then on to the wheel jig for making the treads.
> 
> I want to add here that the straight cutting jig makes 5 treads at a time so way fast but when you start making the angled treads they have to be cut one at a time so way slower but as you can see the angled treads can really jass up at tire.
> I just make one of these as a test the tire is really wide, so would need to thin them down for most models.
> 
> Making of the jig blog here.
> 
> Blog showing my splitting of the lumber and making wheels for the Mack truck.
> 
> 
> Here's one of my wheel how to's.
> 
> 
> 
> So after all the wood gets shaped on the wheel jig it's time to get organized.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just putting them together to see how they match up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found that I need a little space between treads so made a jig to shape the edge.
> I would usually use the table saw for this but wanted to try something a little different and safer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used my wheel shaping jig, just used the Shop Smith and a small sanding drum to get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will use a finer grit paper for this but it did just fine for now.
> 
> I then had to sand all the grooves and then buffed them with this.
> It cleans them up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it's time to glue them up and I don't show it but I glue up just one tread at a time to be sure to get the treads spaced just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then off to the drill press for sanding and buffing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We're getting there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to drill out for the rims.
> 
> To keep everything trued up I drilled a 1/4 hole in the table which is the same as the wheel axle holes, then place a dowel and tire over this so all my drilling will be center of the tire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't drill all the way through because I like to use the back to keep everything lined up which is harder once it's drilled al the way through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now using the dowel again to keep everything lined up for drilling out the center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I need to play around with making up some wheel hubs.
> Here's a couple ideas, we'll see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The funny thing is I don't even know what kind of car truck or what these are for.
> 
> I should add that both Dutchy and I have other how toe's on tire and wheel making just do a search and find some great blogs.





> Still haven t figured out where they're going. LOL
> 
> - htl


*STRAIGHT TO THE POOL ROOM!*

*crowie* would know what I mean by that (and so would most Aussies).

If still confused, go watch "*The Castle*"... not the one with Robert Redford.

*PS.* The wheels (tyres and rims) still look great *#4*... no matter how you try to bugger them up.


----------



## htl

*34 coupe One more Time #2*

Getting started on another 34 Coupe.
I already built one so have the plans but with this one the only thing I'm using is the shape of the body and have shrunk it down just a tad for a 2 7/8" wheel.
I should also add that the plans for this are only two pages but it's enough to get er done. [Toys And Joys]
It will be mostly maple cause that's whats one the shelf.
Will be trying to get this done before the cold is here to stay.

Already had this frame for a truck I just couldn't get my heart into a couple a months ago, these won't be the wheels once it's finished.
Just trying to get a feel for what's up, and what materials will work.









I chopped the top a little for a meaner look.









Playing with some left over parts for the rear end.









Added mounts for the springs.
I added some dowels to be sure it stays in place.

















Trying to get the feel of the frame in the back.


















Needs some seats, and steering wheel ,gear shiftier,and brakes 


























We need some gauges.









Just before I called it a day had to see what the roof wood look like.


















Here's the link to my other hot rod.


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *34 coupe One more Time #2*
> 
> Getting started on another 34 Coupe.
> I already built one so have the plans but with this one the only thing I'm using is the shape of the body and have shrunk it down just a tad for a 2 7/8" wheel.
> I should also add that the plans for this are only two pages but it's enough to get er done. [Toys And Joys]
> It will be mostly maple cause that's whats one the shelf.
> Will be trying to get this done before the cold is here to stay.
> 
> Already had this frame for a truck I just couldn't get my heart into a couple a months ago, these won't be the wheels once it's finished.
> Just trying to get a feel for what's up, and what materials will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I chopped the top a little for a meaner look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Playing with some left over parts for the rear end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added mounts for the springs.
> I added some dowels to be sure it stays in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trying to get the feel of the frame in the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Needs some seats, and steering wheel ,gear shiftier,and brakes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We need some gauges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just before I called it a day had to see what the roof wood look like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the link to my other hot rod.


Oh Man your looking good. I love those old 34 Coupes.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *34 coupe One more Time #2*
> 
> Getting started on another 34 Coupe.
> I already built one so have the plans but with this one the only thing I'm using is the shape of the body and have shrunk it down just a tad for a 2 7/8" wheel.
> I should also add that the plans for this are only two pages but it's enough to get er done. [Toys And Joys]
> It will be mostly maple cause that's whats one the shelf.
> Will be trying to get this done before the cold is here to stay.
> 
> Already had this frame for a truck I just couldn't get my heart into a couple a months ago, these won't be the wheels once it's finished.
> Just trying to get a feel for what's up, and what materials will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I chopped the top a little for a meaner look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Playing with some left over parts for the rear end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added mounts for the springs.
> I added some dowels to be sure it stays in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trying to get the feel of the frame in the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Needs some seats, and steering wheel ,gear shiftier,and brakes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We need some gauges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just before I called it a day had to see what the roof wood look like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the link to my other hot rod.


cant beat them classic curves on these cars …GREAT START :<))


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *34 coupe One more Time #2*
> 
> Getting started on another 34 Coupe.
> I already built one so have the plans but with this one the only thing I'm using is the shape of the body and have shrunk it down just a tad for a 2 7/8" wheel.
> I should also add that the plans for this are only two pages but it's enough to get er done. [Toys And Joys]
> It will be mostly maple cause that's whats one the shelf.
> Will be trying to get this done before the cold is here to stay.
> 
> Already had this frame for a truck I just couldn't get my heart into a couple a months ago, these won't be the wheels once it's finished.
> Just trying to get a feel for what's up, and what materials will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I chopped the top a little for a meaner look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Playing with some left over parts for the rear end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added mounts for the springs.
> I added some dowels to be sure it stays in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trying to get the feel of the frame in the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Needs some seats, and steering wheel ,gear shiftier,and brakes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We need some gauges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just before I called it a day had to see what the roof wood look like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the link to my other hot rod.


Sorry *#4*... still trying to get past the happy snaps of those awesome tyres…

This better be an automatic as those seats look so comfortable the driver is bound to fall asleep.


----------



## robscastle

htl said:


> *34 coupe One more Time #2*
> 
> Getting started on another 34 Coupe.
> I already built one so have the plans but with this one the only thing I'm using is the shape of the body and have shrunk it down just a tad for a 2 7/8" wheel.
> I should also add that the plans for this are only two pages but it's enough to get er done. [Toys And Joys]
> It will be mostly maple cause that's whats one the shelf.
> Will be trying to get this done before the cold is here to stay.
> 
> Already had this frame for a truck I just couldn't get my heart into a couple a months ago, these won't be the wheels once it's finished.
> Just trying to get a feel for what's up, and what materials will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I chopped the top a little for a meaner look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Playing with some left over parts for the rear end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added mounts for the springs.
> I added some dowels to be sure it stays in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trying to get the feel of the frame in the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Needs some seats, and steering wheel ,gear shiftier,and brakes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We need some gauges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just before I called it a day had to see what the roof wood look like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the link to my other hot rod.


Well the wheels get my vote too, they certainly hog the attention.

The detail on the internals is something to be admired as well, I don't know how you get such amazing results.

Makes me think about attempting a model although it would have to be a big one like a Double decker Syd Bus or even an MRAP (I think thats what you call them its a huge mine resistant Russian truck) 
That way I may just be able to see all the parts.

Hey I was just checking out BurlyBob's Project and was thinking some LBD mudflaps on the coupe would be the go. ...snicker snicker!!


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *34 coupe One more Time #2*
> 
> Getting started on another 34 Coupe.
> I already built one so have the plans but with this one the only thing I'm using is the shape of the body and have shrunk it down just a tad for a 2 7/8" wheel.
> I should also add that the plans for this are only two pages but it's enough to get er done. [Toys And Joys]
> It will be mostly maple cause that's whats one the shelf.
> Will be trying to get this done before the cold is here to stay.
> 
> Already had this frame for a truck I just couldn't get my heart into a couple a months ago, these won't be the wheels once it's finished.
> Just trying to get a feel for what's up, and what materials will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I chopped the top a little for a meaner look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Playing with some left over parts for the rear end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added mounts for the springs.
> I added some dowels to be sure it stays in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trying to get the feel of the frame in the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Needs some seats, and steering wheel ,gear shiftier,and brakes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We need some gauges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just before I called it a day had to see what the roof wood look like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the link to my other hot rod.


Looking great, especially the…...................wheels.


----------



## hunter71

htl said:


> *34 coupe One more Time #2*
> 
> Getting started on another 34 Coupe.
> I already built one so have the plans but with this one the only thing I'm using is the shape of the body and have shrunk it down just a tad for a 2 7/8" wheel.
> I should also add that the plans for this are only two pages but it's enough to get er done. [Toys And Joys]
> It will be mostly maple cause that's whats one the shelf.
> Will be trying to get this done before the cold is here to stay.
> 
> Already had this frame for a truck I just couldn't get my heart into a couple a months ago, these won't be the wheels once it's finished.
> Just trying to get a feel for what's up, and what materials will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I chopped the top a little for a meaner look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Playing with some left over parts for the rear end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added mounts for the springs.
> I added some dowels to be sure it stays in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trying to get the feel of the frame in the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Needs some seats, and steering wheel ,gear shiftier,and brakes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We need some gauges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just before I called it a day had to see what the roof wood look like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the link to my other hot rod.


ANOTHER GREAT BUILD.


----------



## helluvawreck

htl said:


> *34 coupe One more Time #2*
> 
> Getting started on another 34 Coupe.
> I already built one so have the plans but with this one the only thing I'm using is the shape of the body and have shrunk it down just a tad for a 2 7/8" wheel.
> I should also add that the plans for this are only two pages but it's enough to get er done. [Toys And Joys]
> It will be mostly maple cause that's whats one the shelf.
> Will be trying to get this done before the cold is here to stay.
> 
> Already had this frame for a truck I just couldn't get my heart into a couple a months ago, these won't be the wheels once it's finished.
> Just trying to get a feel for what's up, and what materials will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I chopped the top a little for a meaner look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Playing with some left over parts for the rear end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added mounts for the springs.
> I added some dowels to be sure it stays in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trying to get the feel of the frame in the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Needs some seats, and steering wheel ,gear shiftier,and brakes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We need some gauges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just before I called it a day had to see what the roof wood look like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the link to my other hot rod.


This coupe is coming along so beautifully and it will display a lot of fine details and craftsmanship.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *34 coupe One more Time #2*
> 
> Getting started on another 34 Coupe.
> I already built one so have the plans but with this one the only thing I'm using is the shape of the body and have shrunk it down just a tad for a 2 7/8" wheel.
> I should also add that the plans for this are only two pages but it's enough to get er done. [Toys And Joys]
> It will be mostly maple cause that's whats one the shelf.
> Will be trying to get this done before the cold is here to stay.
> 
> Already had this frame for a truck I just couldn't get my heart into a couple a months ago, these won't be the wheels once it's finished.
> Just trying to get a feel for what's up, and what materials will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I chopped the top a little for a meaner look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Playing with some left over parts for the rear end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added mounts for the springs.
> I added some dowels to be sure it stays in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trying to get the feel of the frame in the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Needs some seats, and steering wheel ,gear shiftier,and brakes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We need some gauges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just before I called it a day had to see what the roof wood look like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the link to my other hot rod.


Now that's a great way to use those beaut wheels Bruce, only a top ride!!


----------



## franktha4th

htl said:


> *34 coupe One more Time #2*
> 
> Getting started on another 34 Coupe.
> I already built one so have the plans but with this one the only thing I'm using is the shape of the body and have shrunk it down just a tad for a 2 7/8" wheel.
> I should also add that the plans for this are only two pages but it's enough to get er done. [Toys And Joys]
> It will be mostly maple cause that's whats one the shelf.
> Will be trying to get this done before the cold is here to stay.
> 
> Already had this frame for a truck I just couldn't get my heart into a couple a months ago, these won't be the wheels once it's finished.
> Just trying to get a feel for what's up, and what materials will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I chopped the top a little for a meaner look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Playing with some left over parts for the rear end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added mounts for the springs.
> I added some dowels to be sure it stays in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trying to get the feel of the frame in the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Needs some seats, and steering wheel ,gear shiftier,and brakes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We need some gauges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just before I called it a day had to see what the roof wood look like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the link to my other hot rod.


This is truly amazing! Nice work!


----------



## htl

*Starting on the motor for the coupe*

One of those might as well make 3 while I'm at it so my next model can have one.

I want to thank SouthavenToyMaker for his motor project that got me wanting to build a really mean Hot Rod motor.

Getting cold in the shop. BRRRRRRR!!!!!




































I've been getting asked for the dimensions for the motor well here's a quick drawing.


















Hope this helps.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Starting on the motor for the coupe*
> 
> One of those might as well make 3 while I'm at it so my next model can have one.
> 
> I want to thank SouthavenToyMaker for his motor project that got me wanting to build a really mean Hot Rod motor.
> 
> Getting cold in the shop. BRRRRRRR!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been getting asked for the dimensions for the motor well here's a quick drawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps.


What do you call cold Bruce, we're enjoying a start to summer of high 20deg's "C" to the mid 30deg's "C"...

Back on topic, good start to the engine!!


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Starting on the motor for the coupe*
> 
> One of those might as well make 3 while I'm at it so my next model can have one.
> 
> I want to thank SouthavenToyMaker for his motor project that got me wanting to build a really mean Hot Rod motor.
> 
> Getting cold in the shop. BRRRRRRR!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been getting asked for the dimensions for the motor well here's a quick drawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps.


*Looking good.* If you think it is cold now just wait channel 48 is predicting 22 Deg. for Sat. morning


----------



## HotRod1

htl said:


> *Starting on the motor for the coupe*
> 
> One of those might as well make 3 while I'm at it so my next model can have one.
> 
> I want to thank SouthavenToyMaker for his motor project that got me wanting to build a really mean Hot Rod motor.
> 
> Getting cold in the shop. BRRRRRRR!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been getting asked for the dimensions for the motor well here's a quick drawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps.


Pretty cool, can't go wrong with the blown motor in a coupe.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Starting on the motor for the coupe*
> 
> One of those might as well make 3 while I'm at it so my next model can have one.
> 
> I want to thank SouthavenToyMaker for his motor project that got me wanting to build a really mean Hot Rod motor.
> 
> Getting cold in the shop. BRRRRRRR!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been getting asked for the dimensions for the motor well here's a quick drawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps.


Went out and played a little more with them.




































Wonder how it will fit the car?









And how about a two engine dragster? LOL


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Starting on the motor for the coupe*
> 
> One of those might as well make 3 while I'm at it so my next model can have one.
> 
> I want to thank SouthavenToyMaker for his motor project that got me wanting to build a really mean Hot Rod motor.
> 
> Getting cold in the shop. BRRRRRRR!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been getting asked for the dimensions for the motor well here's a quick drawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps.


very kewl looking motor ….cant wait to see it with headers …...GREAT JOB :<))


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Starting on the motor for the coupe*
> 
> One of those might as well make 3 while I'm at it so my next model can have one.
> 
> I want to thank SouthavenToyMaker for his motor project that got me wanting to build a really mean Hot Rod motor.
> 
> Getting cold in the shop. BRRRRRRR!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been getting asked for the dimensions for the motor well here's a quick drawing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps.


Hey Oldrivers!!!
I saw *Town Creek, Alabama @ Wheeler Dam* and it made me remember my old mussel diving days in your neck of the woods, man it would be cold in that there lake in the winter, BRRR, Double BRRR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I just lately moved back to Sylagauga, the river here comes out of Georgia so not as cold for diving in the winter, not that I'm doing that any more. LOL

*And thanks all for your comments *it makes my day to get in put on these builds.


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Starting on the motor for the coupe*
> 
> One of those might as well make 3 while I'm at it so my next model can have one.
> 
> I want to thank SouthavenToyMaker for his motor project that got me wanting to build a really mean Hot Rod motor.
> 
> Getting cold in the shop. BRRRRRRR!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> I've been getting asked for the dimensions for the motor well here's a quick drawing.
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> Hope this helps.


Don't see the divers like we did market must have went south. (I did not know you had moved) Have a Great day.
Keep us posted on the high powered coupe you are building.


----------



## SouthavenToyMaker

htl said:


> *Starting on the motor for the coupe*
> 
> One of those might as well make 3 while I'm at it so my next model can have one.
> 
> I want to thank SouthavenToyMaker for his motor project that got me wanting to build a really mean Hot Rod motor.
> 
> Getting cold in the shop. BRRRRRRR!!!!!
> 
> 
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> 
> I've been getting asked for the dimensions for the motor well here's a quick drawing.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps.


Great work, I like the way the coupe is turning out.


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## bushmaster

htl said:


> *Starting on the motor for the coupe*
> 
> One of those might as well make 3 while I'm at it so my next model can have one.
> 
> I want to thank SouthavenToyMaker for his motor project that got me wanting to build a really mean Hot Rod motor.
> 
> Getting cold in the shop. BRRRRRRR!!!!!
> 
> 
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> 
> I've been getting asked for the dimensions for the motor well here's a quick drawing.
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps.


I think it will be abit overpowered


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## htl

htl said:


> *Starting on the motor for the coupe*
> 
> One of those might as well make 3 while I'm at it so my next model can have one.
> 
> I want to thank SouthavenToyMaker for his motor project that got me wanting to build a really mean Hot Rod motor.
> 
> Getting cold in the shop. BRRRRRRR!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> I've been getting asked for the dimensions for the motor well here's a quick drawing.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps.





> I think it will be abit overpowered
> 
> - bushmaster


*Bushmaster this here ain't gonna be no slow pock, I'm a thinking. ;-}*


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## robscastle

htl said:


> *Starting on the motor for the coupe*
> 
> One of those might as well make 3 while I'm at it so my next model can have one.
> 
> I want to thank SouthavenToyMaker for his motor project that got me wanting to build a really mean Hot Rod motor.
> 
> Getting cold in the shop. BRRRRRRR!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> I've been getting asked for the dimensions for the motor well here's a quick drawing.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps.


Dont forget the colder the air going in, the more horses coming out!
You would want to be hanging on with 2x the power or end up in the dicky seat!










Very nice progress!


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## htl

htl said:


> *Starting on the motor for the coupe*
> 
> One of those might as well make 3 while I'm at it so my next model can have one.
> 
> I want to thank SouthavenToyMaker for his motor project that got me wanting to build a really mean Hot Rod motor.
> 
> Getting cold in the shop. BRRRRRRR!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> I've been getting asked for the dimensions for the motor well here's a quick drawing.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps.


I added the measurements for the motor up in the post.


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## TV2

htl said:


> *Starting on the motor for the coupe*
> 
> One of those might as well make 3 while I'm at it so my next model can have one.
> 
> I want to thank SouthavenToyMaker for his motor project that got me wanting to build a really mean Hot Rod motor.
> 
> Getting cold in the shop. BRRRRRRR!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> I've been getting asked for the dimensions for the motor well here's a quick drawing.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps.


thanks so much for the engine dimensions . It will we really helpful when I start on my own 34 roadster build. TV2


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## htl

htl said:


> *Starting on the motor for the coupe*
> 
> One of those might as well make 3 while I'm at it so my next model can have one.
> 
> I want to thank SouthavenToyMaker for his motor project that got me wanting to build a really mean Hot Rod motor.
> 
> Getting cold in the shop. BRRRRRRR!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> I've been getting asked for the dimensions for the motor well here's a quick drawing.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps.


These motors aren't wood but O how much fun would they be to build.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Starting on the motor for the coupe*
> 
> One of those might as well make 3 while I'm at it so my next model can have one.
> 
> I want to thank SouthavenToyMaker for his motor project that got me wanting to build a really mean Hot Rod motor.
> 
> Getting cold in the shop. BRRRRRRR!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> I've been getting asked for the dimensions for the motor well here's a quick drawing.
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps.





> These motors aren t wood but O how much fun would they be to build.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - htl


Almost encourages one to want/wish for a 3D Printer….

Look at this one too….


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## htl

htl said:


> *Starting on the motor for the coupe*
> 
> One of those might as well make 3 while I'm at it so my next model can have one.
> 
> I want to thank SouthavenToyMaker for his motor project that got me wanting to build a really mean Hot Rod motor.
> 
> Getting cold in the shop. BRRRRRRR!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> I've been getting asked for the dimensions for the motor well here's a quick drawing.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps.


It would be easier to buy one of the kits, I saw one for $60, which ain't cheap, but how many times you going to make one.
A wood one wood be so cool to make but at a bigger scale me thinks.
But hey I'm happy with ours. LOL


----------



## htl

*34 coupe Feel like I'm getting some where*

It's finally starting to come together after power outage and snow.
Still have a way to go with the frame but can now see what need to be done.



























Got a feel for the bonnet and radiator cover.



























Lets see what the motor would look like without a cover.









You can see here where the radiator will fit in the cover.


















And a look at the underneath.


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *34 coupe Feel like I'm getting some where*
> 
> It's finally starting to come together after power outage and snow.
> Still have a way to go with the frame but can now see what need to be done.
> 
> 
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> 
> Got a feel for the bonnet and radiator cover.
> 
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> 
> 
> Lets see what the motor would look like without a cover.
> 
> 
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> 
> You can see here where the radiator will fit in the cover.
> 
> 
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> And a look at the underneath.


Looking GREAT!


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *34 coupe Feel like I'm getting some where*
> 
> It's finally starting to come together after power outage and snow.
> Still have a way to go with the frame but can now see what need to be done.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Got a feel for the bonnet and radiator cover.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Lets see what the motor would look like without a cover.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> You can see here where the radiator will fit in the cover.
> 
> 
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> And a look at the underneath.


i thought the headers would have been next ….LMAO :<))


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## bruce317

htl said:


> *34 coupe Feel like I'm getting some where*
> 
> It's finally starting to come together after power outage and snow.
> Still have a way to go with the frame but can now see what need to be done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Got a feel for the bonnet and radiator cover.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Lets see what the motor would look like without a cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see here where the radiator will fit in the cover.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> And a look at the underneath.


Bruce,
That is AWESOME !!!


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *34 coupe Feel like I'm getting some where*
> 
> It's finally starting to come together after power outage and snow.
> Still have a way to go with the frame but can now see what need to be done.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> Got a feel for the bonnet and radiator cover.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lets see what the motor would look like without a cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see here where the radiator will fit in the cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> And a look at the underneath.


That is way too cool *#4*...

Hope you're not putting a bonnet on it! Hate TO SEE that donk NOT SEE daylight.


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## FraPen

htl said:


> *34 coupe Feel like I'm getting some where*
> 
> It's finally starting to come together after power outage and snow.
> Still have a way to go with the frame but can now see what need to be done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> Got a feel for the bonnet and radiator cover.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Lets see what the motor would look like without a cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see here where the radiator will fit in the cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a look at the underneath.


Nice


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## htl

htl said:


> *34 coupe Feel like I'm getting some where*
> 
> It's finally starting to come together after power outage and snow.
> Still have a way to go with the frame but can now see what need to be done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a feel for the bonnet and radiator cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lets see what the motor would look like without a cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see here where the radiator will fit in the cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a look at the underneath.


Ducky I may be putting the fenders on it so will need a smooth transition from cab, frame and radiator.
The bonnet if used will be cut up to show all that work I put in the motor. LOL


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *34 coupe Feel like I'm getting some where*
> 
> It's finally starting to come together after power outage and snow.
> Still have a way to go with the frame but can now see what need to be done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a feel for the bonnet and radiator cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lets see what the motor would look like without a cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see here where the radiator will fit in the cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a look at the underneath.


Gr8Hunter Woulda Coulda but nope not yet. LOL


----------



## robscastle

htl said:


> *34 coupe Feel like I'm getting some where*
> 
> It's finally starting to come together after power outage and snow.
> Still have a way to go with the frame but can now see what need to be done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a feel for the bonnet and radiator cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lets see what the motor would look like without a cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see here where the radiator will fit in the cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a look at the underneath.


Dont forget those mudflaps !!

Otherwise exceptional work in progress!


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## htl

htl said:


> *34 coupe Feel like I'm getting some where*
> 
> It's finally starting to come together after power outage and snow.
> Still have a way to go with the frame but can now see what need to be done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a feel for the bonnet and radiator cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Lets see what the motor would look like without a cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see here where the radiator will fit in the cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a look at the underneath.


LOL!!! robscastle I like to build mudflaps almost as much as I like making headlights and mirrors, NOT!!! LOL


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *34 coupe Feel like I'm getting some where*
> 
> It's finally starting to come together after power outage and snow.
> Still have a way to go with the frame but can now see what need to be done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a feel for the bonnet and radiator cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lets see what the motor would look like without a cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see here where the radiator will fit in the cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a look at the underneath.


Keep on going.


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## htl

htl said:


> *34 coupe Feel like I'm getting some where*
> 
> It's finally starting to come together after power outage and snow.
> Still have a way to go with the frame but can now see what need to be done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a feel for the bonnet and radiator cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lets see what the motor would look like without a cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see here where the radiator will fit in the cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a look at the underneath.


I am Dutchy I am. LOL


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *34 coupe Feel like I'm getting some where*
> 
> It's finally starting to come together after power outage and snow.
> Still have a way to go with the frame but can now see what need to be done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a feel for the bonnet and radiator cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lets see what the motor would look like without a cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see here where the radiator will fit in the cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a look at the underneath.





> ... almost as much as I like making headlights and mirrors…
> 
> - htl


Notice I deliberately haven't mentioned TRACKS, *#4*! Then again, maybe you missed it so again I won't mention TRACKS.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *34 coupe Feel like I'm getting some where*
> 
> It's finally starting to come together after power outage and snow.
> Still have a way to go with the frame but can now see what need to be done.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> Got a feel for the bonnet and radiator cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lets see what the motor would look like without a cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see here where the radiator will fit in the cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a look at the underneath.


I've build my *TRACKS* for both trains and *hated every minute of it. LOL*


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *34 coupe Feel like I'm getting some where*
> 
> It's finally starting to come together after power outage and snow.
> Still have a way to go with the frame but can now see what need to be done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a feel for the bonnet and radiator cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lets see what the motor would look like without a cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see here where the radiator will fit in the cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a look at the underneath.


SouthavenToyMaker
You know it's all your fault I'm building this hot rod, I saw your motor and just had to give it a try.


----------



## johnstoneb

htl said:


> *34 coupe Feel like I'm getting some where*
> 
> It's finally starting to come together after power outage and snow.
> Still have a way to go with the frame but can now see what need to be done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a feel for the bonnet and radiator cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lets see what the motor would look like without a cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see here where the radiator will fit in the cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a look at the underneath.


That is looking good. Just need to hinge the bonnet so you can open to see engine.


----------



## helluvawreck

htl said:


> *34 coupe Feel like I'm getting some where*
> 
> It's finally starting to come together after power outage and snow.
> Still have a way to go with the frame but can now see what need to be done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a feel for the bonnet and radiator cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lets see what the motor would look like without a cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see here where the radiator will fit in the cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a look at the underneath.


This is going to be a fine model hotrod when you have finished it. You are doing a wonderful job on this.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *34 coupe Feel like I'm getting some where*
> 
> It's finally starting to come together after power outage and snow.
> Still have a way to go with the frame but can now see what need to be done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a feel for the bonnet and radiator cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lets see what the motor would look like without a cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see here where the radiator will fit in the cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a look at the underneath.





> That is looking good. Just need to hinge the bonnet so you can open to see engine.
> 
> - johnstoneb


-- now there's an idea, HUMMMMM!!!!!


----------



## htl

*34 coupe Put in the time but not much progress today*

Seem like I spent more time scratching my head than making anything.

Worked some more on the radiator.




































Then on to the bonnet.



































I need to make my mind up if I want the front wheels before the radiator or out back.

*Would like some input on this.*


----------



## SouthavenToyMaker

htl said:


> *34 coupe Put in the time but not much progress today*
> 
> Seem like I spent more time scratching my head than making anything.
> 
> Worked some more on the radiator.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the bonnet.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to make my mind up if I want the front wheels before the radiator or out back.
> 
> *Would like some input on this.*


taking shape, we will have to meet at the strip and line up…..LOL


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *34 coupe Put in the time but not much progress today*
> 
> Seem like I spent more time scratching my head than making anything.
> 
> Worked some more on the radiator.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the bonnet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to make my mind up if I want the front wheels before the radiator or out back.
> 
> *Would like some input on this.*


Like the souped up *Forklift* alternative…

Coming on well *#4*.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *34 coupe Put in the time but not much progress today*
> 
> Seem like I spent more time scratching my head than making anything.
> 
> Worked some more on the radiator.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the bonnet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to make my mind up if I want the front wheels before the radiator or out back.
> 
> *Would like some input on this.*


Ducky you never fail well most times to get a laugh out of me.
Fork lift. LOL


----------



## ralbuck

htl said:


> *34 coupe Put in the time but not much progress today*
> 
> Seem like I spent more time scratching my head than making anything.
> 
> Worked some more on the radiator.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the bonnet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to make my mind up if I want the front wheels before the radiator or out back.
> 
> *Would like some input on this.*


Lookin' great======== ===

B U T!

You have the wheelie bars on the wrong end!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *34 coupe Put in the time but not much progress today*
> 
> Seem like I spent more time scratching my head than making anything.
> 
> Worked some more on the radiator.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the bonnet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to make my mind up if I want the front wheels before the radiator or out back.
> 
> *Would like some input on this.*


Now you guys need to play nice, I haven't got over the first joke yet!!!!!!!!!! ;-{


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *34 coupe Put in the time but not much progress today*
> 
> Seem like I spent more time scratching my head than making anything.
> 
> Worked some more on the radiator.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the bonnet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to make my mind up if I want the front wheels before the radiator or out back.
> 
> *Would like some input on this.*





> ... to get a laugh out of me…
> 
> - htl


Then I've served my purpose!

It's nice to be *funny ha-ha *sometimes than *funny peculiar *always!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *34 coupe Put in the time but not much progress today*
> 
> Seem like I spent more time scratching my head than making anything.
> 
> Worked some more on the radiator.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the bonnet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to make my mind up if I want the front wheels before the radiator or out back.
> 
> *Would like some input on this.*


You two got this all wrong this is a *MAD MAX* wanta be!!!!!


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *34 coupe Put in the time but not much progress today*
> 
> Seem like I spent more time scratching my head than making anything.
> 
> Worked some more on the radiator.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the bonnet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to make my mind up if I want the front wheels before the radiator or out back.
> 
> *Would like some input on this.*


Mad Max - WOW..

This is what Mr Google found for me in coupes..


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *34 coupe Put in the time but not much progress today*
> 
> Seem like I spent more time scratching my head than making anything.
> 
> Worked some more on the radiator.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the bonnet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to make my mind up if I want the front wheels before the radiator or out back.
> 
> *Would like some input on this.*





> Seem like I spent more time scratching my head than making anything.
> 
> - htl


But in the end it becomes very beautiful!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *34 coupe Put in the time but not much progress today*
> 
> Seem like I spent more time scratching my head than making anything.
> 
> Worked some more on the radiator.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the bonnet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to make my mind up if I want the front wheels before the radiator or out back.
> 
> *Would like some input on this.*





> Mad Max - WOW..
> 
> - crowie


Now it all makes sense to me… Those two long pokey out things at the front of the "rocket" and reference to Mad Max…










DOH!

All that's missing is the nodding dog (with the red bandanna) on the back window.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *34 coupe Put in the time but not much progress today*
> 
> Seem like I spent more time scratching my head than making anything.
> 
> Worked some more on the radiator.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the bonnet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to make my mind up if I want the front wheels before the radiator or out back.
> 
> *Would like some input on this.*


Loving the pipes in the first picture. LOL


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *34 coupe Put in the time but not much progress today*
> 
> Seem like I spent more time scratching my head than making anything.
> 
> Worked some more on the radiator.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the bonnet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to make my mind up if I want the front wheels before the radiator or out back.
> 
> *Would like some input on this.*


Here's some pictures of my first coupe and the wheels will be in line with these.


















My first coupe project.


----------



## johnstoneb

htl said:


> *34 coupe Put in the time but not much progress today*
> 
> Seem like I spent more time scratching my head than making anything.
> 
> Worked some more on the radiator.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the bonnet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to make my mind up if I want the front wheels before the radiator or out back.
> 
> *Would like some input on this.*


I like forward of the radiator.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *34 coupe Put in the time but not much progress today*
> 
> Seem like I spent more time scratching my head than making anything.
> 
> Worked some more on the radiator.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the bonnet.
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to make my mind up if I want the front wheels before the radiator or out back.
> 
> *Would like some input on this.*


I think we need to *talk about Mad Max more* there's 4000 hits on here. LOL


----------



## Bibby

htl said:


> *34 coupe Put in the time but not much progress today*
> 
> Seem like I spent more time scratching my head than making anything.
> 
> Worked some more on the radiator.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the bonnet.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to make my mind up if I want the front wheels before the radiator or out back.
> 
> *Would like some input on this.*


Nice looking radiator!! I would like to see your other projects.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *34 coupe Put in the time but not much progress today*
> 
> Seem like I spent more time scratching my head than making anything.
> 
> Worked some more on the radiator.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the bonnet.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to make my mind up if I want the front wheels before the radiator or out back.
> 
> *Would like some input on this.*


Bibby Just click on my name or projects or blog and there should be enough the keep you busy for a while, and Welcome to LJ"s


----------



## htl

*34 coupe frame and front end*

Well for one I de Mad Maxed the frame [or in other words shortened it] and added some shape. LOL




































Then went on and figured out the front end.


















Then glue on the top and sand sand sand.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *34 coupe frame and front end*
> 
> Well for one I de Mad Maxed the frame [or in other words shortened it] and added some shape. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then went on and figured out the front end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then glue on the top and sand sand sand.


Look out thunder road. Burn rubber


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *34 coupe frame and front end*
> 
> Well for one I de Mad Maxed the frame [or in other words shortened it] and added some shape. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Then went on and figured out the front end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then glue on the top and sand sand sand.


**


----------



## eng1_romy

htl said:


> *34 coupe frame and front end*
> 
> Well for one I de Mad Maxed the frame [or in other words shortened it] and added some shape. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> Then went on and figured out the front end.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then glue on the top and sand sand sand.


really great work i wish i have one


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *34 coupe frame and front end*
> 
> Well for one I de Mad Maxed the frame [or in other words shortened it] and added some shape. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Then went on and figured out the front end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then glue on the top and sand sand sand.


Coming along right well, looking good.


----------



## Redoak49

htl said:


> *34 coupe frame and front end*
> 
> Well for one I de Mad Maxed the frame [or in other words shortened it] and added some shape. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> Then went on and figured out the front end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then glue on the top and sand sand sand.


Very impressive build


----------



## bj383ss

htl said:


> *34 coupe frame and front end*
> 
> Well for one I de Mad Maxed the frame [or in other words shortened it] and added some shape. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Then went on and figured out the front end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then glue on the top and sand sand sand.


Very nice. It is looking the part.

Bret


----------



## bushmaster

htl said:


> *34 coupe frame and front end*
> 
> Well for one I de Mad Maxed the frame [or in other words shortened it] and added some shape. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then went on and figured out the front end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then glue on the top and sand sand sand.


You totally amaze me in the work and detail you put into model making.


----------



## robscastle

htl said:


> *34 coupe frame and front end*
> 
> Well for one I de Mad Maxed the frame [or in other words shortened it] and added some shape. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then went on and figured out the front end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then glue on the top and sand sand sand.


All looks to be Progressing well
You might have to check the pressure in the front tyres they seem to have ballooned out a bit!!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *34 coupe frame and front end*
> 
> Well for one I de Mad Maxed the frame [or in other words shortened it] and added some shape. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then went on and figured out the front end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then glue on the top and sand sand sand.


O MY!!!
I forgot to turn the compressor off. BOOM!!!!!
Will be starting on a set a new wheels tomorrow.


----------



## htl

*Mag Wheel Making Jig*

After seeing Bushmasters jig making it got me wanting to rethink my mag wheel making jig
and this is what I came up with, and I must say it's much faster and safer to boot.









Using and indexer makes this job so much easier and really a no brainier from now on, just make up your mind how many spokes you want and jig it up.
For even # holes at least. LOL

First I made up some hole blanks, don't cut them all the way through just enough to have a center hole and the out line for the wheels.
I could have drawn them out but this is faster for me.
I also didn't drill the center holes all the way through for this project.
Doing it this way there's no worry's about them getting out of round ,which I would tend to do if I did this by hand. [Getting in a hurry]

That's what I love about this jig, before I had to mark where the center hole would be and then for the spokes and the marks I made were not perfect, now mark them with the hole saw place on the jig and everything is just right.

*Oo! *and one more tip always make one extra of your parts [wheel hub in this case] so if and when you want to make some more you just place the part on the jig and use it to set the jig up for the new parts no measuring needed.

*When mass producing something, anything you can do to have less steps or make simpler the better.*









This is my indexer for 40 holes but I only need six and you can see where I put marks on the plywood for the holes I need.
I have a plywood base butted up to the fence , I drilled a 1/4" hole, some where near the center and add a 1/4" dowel, you can see it coming up throw the indexer.
Next I slide the indexer and base over till I can drill a hole in one of the 40 holes, this lines the two holes up. *Not really needed to be in line but sometime down the road it could help with another project.
*
This hole will be used for finding you six spokes and needs to be where ever the indexer needs it.









Now we need to decide where we want the holed for the spokes to be and clamp down the base, and put the metal pin in our first of the six indexing holes.

*Be sure to clamp the base to the table before you start drilling.*

Place your blank over the 1/4" dowel and drill a 3/8" hole for your first hole, it doesn't matter where it is on the blank.

I'm using a 3/8 drill bit for my spoke holes, you'll see why later.

Place a 3/8" dowel in the first hole through the blank and into the indexer, this will keep everything lined up as you drill the next five holes using the index holes we marked.



























Now we add some shape to the hole drilled with a router bit.

Figure out how deep you want you shape and lock the drill press .

I use a 3/8" bearing on the router bit so it goes in our pre drilled 3/8" holes and guides the bit.

[I guess you really don't need to use a router bit with a bearing now that we have the indexer but old habits die hard. LOL]

I put the dowel back in to help hold the blank and then with the indexing pin removed route a hole and spin the indexer to the next hole.



















Now over to the band saw and cut out the hub. 
It doesn't have to be round cause we're going to sand it to round.









Now over to the disk sander jig and make the hub fit the tyre inserts.









Some sanding and.









Now hows that for a mag wheel?


----------



## bruce317

htl said:


> *Mag Wheel Making Jig*
> 
> After seeing Bushmasters jig making it got me wanting to rethink my mag wheel making jig
> and this is what I came up with, and I must say it's much faster and safer to boot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using and indexer makes this job so much easier and really a no brainier from now on, just make up your mind how many spokes you want and jig it up.
> For even # holes at least. LOL
> 
> First I made up some hole blanks, don't cut them all the way through just enough to have a center hole and the out line for the wheels.
> I could have drawn them out but this is faster for me.
> I also didn't drill the center holes all the way through for this project.
> Doing it this way there's no worry's about them getting out of round ,which I would tend to do if I did this by hand. [Getting in a hurry]
> 
> That's what I love about this jig, before I had to mark where the center hole would be and then for the spokes and the marks I made were not perfect, now mark them with the hole saw place on the jig and everything is just right.
> 
> *Oo! *and one more tip always make one extra of your parts [wheel hub in this case] so if and when you want to make some more you just place the part on the jig and use it to set the jig up for the new parts no measuring needed.
> 
> *When mass producing something, anything you can do to have less steps or make simpler the better.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my indexer for 40 holes but I only need six and you can see where I put marks on the plywood for the holes I need.
> I have a plywood base butted up to the fence , I drilled a 1/4" hole, some where near the center and add a 1/4" dowel, you can see it coming up throw the indexer.
> Next I slide the indexer and base over till I can drill a hole in one of the 40 holes, this lines the two holes up. *Not really needed to be in line but sometime down the road it could help with another project.
> *
> This hole will be used for finding you six spokes and needs to be where ever the indexer needs it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to decide where we want the holed for the spokes to be and clamp down the base, and put the metal pin in our first of the six indexing holes.
> 
> *Be sure to clamp the base to the table before you start drilling.*
> 
> Place your blank over the 1/4" dowel and drill a 3/8" hole for your first hole, it doesn't matter where it is on the blank.
> 
> I'm using a 3/8 drill bit for my spoke holes, you'll see why later.
> 
> Place a 3/8" dowel in the first hole through the blank and into the indexer, this will keep everything lined up as you drill the next five holes using the index holes we marked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we add some shape to the hole drilled with a router bit.
> 
> Figure out how deep you want you shape and lock the drill press .
> 
> I use a 3/8" bearing on the router bit so it goes in our pre drilled 3/8" holes and guides the bit.
> 
> [I guess you really don't need to use a router bit with a bearing now that we have the indexer but old habits die hard. LOL]
> 
> I put the dowel back in to help hold the blank and then with the indexing pin removed route a hole and spin the indexer to the next hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the band saw and cut out the hub.
> It doesn't have to be round cause we're going to sand it to round.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the disk sander jig and make the hub fit the tyre inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some sanding and.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now hows that for a mag wheel?


This is super COOL!!


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Mag Wheel Making Jig*
> 
> After seeing Bushmasters jig making it got me wanting to rethink my mag wheel making jig
> and this is what I came up with, and I must say it's much faster and safer to boot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using and indexer makes this job so much easier and really a no brainier from now on, just make up your mind how many spokes you want and jig it up.
> For even # holes at least. LOL
> 
> First I made up some hole blanks, don't cut them all the way through just enough to have a center hole and the out line for the wheels.
> I could have drawn them out but this is faster for me.
> I also didn't drill the center holes all the way through for this project.
> Doing it this way there's no worry's about them getting out of round ,which I would tend to do if I did this by hand. [Getting in a hurry]
> 
> That's what I love about this jig, before I had to mark where the center hole would be and then for the spokes and the marks I made were not perfect, now mark them with the hole saw place on the jig and everything is just right.
> 
> *Oo! *and one more tip always make one extra of your parts [wheel hub in this case] so if and when you want to make some more you just place the part on the jig and use it to set the jig up for the new parts no measuring needed.
> 
> *When mass producing something, anything you can do to have less steps or make simpler the better.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my indexer for 40 holes but I only need six and you can see where I put marks on the plywood for the holes I need.
> I have a plywood base butted up to the fence , I drilled a 1/4" hole, some where near the center and add a 1/4" dowel, you can see it coming up throw the indexer.
> Next I slide the indexer and base over till I can drill a hole in one of the 40 holes, this lines the two holes up. *Not really needed to be in line but sometime down the road it could help with another project.
> *
> This hole will be used for finding you six spokes and needs to be where ever the indexer needs it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to decide where we want the holed for the spokes to be and clamp down the base, and put the metal pin in our first of the six indexing holes.
> 
> *Be sure to clamp the base to the table before you start drilling.*
> 
> Place your blank over the 1/4" dowel and drill a 3/8" hole for your first hole, it doesn't matter where it is on the blank.
> 
> I'm using a 3/8 drill bit for my spoke holes, you'll see why later.
> 
> Place a 3/8" dowel in the first hole through the blank and into the indexer, this will keep everything lined up as you drill the next five holes using the index holes we marked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we add some shape to the hole drilled with a router bit.
> 
> Figure out how deep you want you shape and lock the drill press .
> 
> I use a 3/8" bearing on the router bit so it goes in our pre drilled 3/8" holes and guides the bit.
> 
> [I guess you really don't need to use a router bit with a bearing now that we have the indexer but old habits die hard. LOL]
> 
> I put the dowel back in to help hold the blank and then with the indexing pin removed route a hole and spin the indexer to the next hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the band saw and cut out the hub.
> It doesn't have to be round cause we're going to sand it to round.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the disk sander jig and make the hub fit the tyre inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some sanding and.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now hows that for a mag wheel?


Wheels, wheels, wheels.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Mag Wheel Making Jig*
> 
> After seeing Bushmasters jig making it got me wanting to rethink my mag wheel making jig
> and this is what I came up with, and I must say it's much faster and safer to boot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using and indexer makes this job so much easier and really a no brainier from now on, just make up your mind how many spokes you want and jig it up.
> For even # holes at least. LOL
> 
> First I made up some hole blanks, don't cut them all the way through just enough to have a center hole and the out line for the wheels.
> I could have drawn them out but this is faster for me.
> I also didn't drill the center holes all the way through for this project.
> Doing it this way there's no worry's about them getting out of round ,which I would tend to do if I did this by hand. [Getting in a hurry]
> 
> That's what I love about this jig, before I had to mark where the center hole would be and then for the spokes and the marks I made were not perfect, now mark them with the hole saw place on the jig and everything is just right.
> 
> *Oo! *and one more tip always make one extra of your parts [wheel hub in this case] so if and when you want to make some more you just place the part on the jig and use it to set the jig up for the new parts no measuring needed.
> 
> *When mass producing something, anything you can do to have less steps or make simpler the better.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my indexer for 40 holes but I only need six and you can see where I put marks on the plywood for the holes I need.
> I have a plywood base butted up to the fence , I drilled a 1/4" hole, some where near the center and add a 1/4" dowel, you can see it coming up throw the indexer.
> Next I slide the indexer and base over till I can drill a hole in one of the 40 holes, this lines the two holes up. *Not really needed to be in line but sometime down the road it could help with another project.
> *
> This hole will be used for finding you six spokes and needs to be where ever the indexer needs it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to decide where we want the holed for the spokes to be and clamp down the base, and put the metal pin in our first of the six indexing holes.
> 
> *Be sure to clamp the base to the table before you start drilling.*
> 
> Place your blank over the 1/4" dowel and drill a 3/8" hole for your first hole, it doesn't matter where it is on the blank.
> 
> I'm using a 3/8 drill bit for my spoke holes, you'll see why later.
> 
> Place a 3/8" dowel in the first hole through the blank and into the indexer, this will keep everything lined up as you drill the next five holes using the index holes we marked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we add some shape to the hole drilled with a router bit.
> 
> Figure out how deep you want you shape and lock the drill press .
> 
> I use a 3/8" bearing on the router bit so it goes in our pre drilled 3/8" holes and guides the bit.
> 
> [I guess you really don't need to use a router bit with a bearing now that we have the indexer but old habits die hard. LOL]
> 
> I put the dowel back in to help hold the blank and then with the indexing pin removed route a hole and spin the indexer to the next hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the band saw and cut out the hub.
> It doesn't have to be round cause we're going to sand it to round.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the disk sander jig and make the hub fit the tyre inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some sanding and.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now hows that for a mag wheel?


The one thing I need to do is find a better way to sand them, or maybe use better wood.
Always before I use store bought wheels to make my centers but just used poplar for this test run.

One thing I could try is running the drill at a higher speed I had it let at it's lowest setting.
Thanks Gr#8 you got my brain to working again.

I need to find a smaller brush thingy. LOL
You didn't know I could read the future did you. GR#8

Here's a not so good video on the jig.
I know I should shorten them but better this than nota me thinks. LOL

Drilling the holes





Shaping the hub.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Mag Wheel Making Jig*
> 
> After seeing Bushmasters jig making it got me wanting to rethink my mag wheel making jig
> and this is what I came up with, and I must say it's much faster and safer to boot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using and indexer makes this job so much easier and really a no brainier from now on, just make up your mind how many spokes you want and jig it up.
> For even # holes at least. LOL
> 
> First I made up some hole blanks, don't cut them all the way through just enough to have a center hole and the out line for the wheels.
> I could have drawn them out but this is faster for me.
> I also didn't drill the center holes all the way through for this project.
> Doing it this way there's no worry's about them getting out of round ,which I would tend to do if I did this by hand. [Getting in a hurry]
> 
> That's what I love about this jig, before I had to mark where the center hole would be and then for the spokes and the marks I made were not perfect, now mark them with the hole saw place on the jig and everything is just right.
> 
> *Oo! *and one more tip always make one extra of your parts [wheel hub in this case] so if and when you want to make some more you just place the part on the jig and use it to set the jig up for the new parts no measuring needed.
> 
> *When mass producing something, anything you can do to have less steps or make simpler the better.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my indexer for 40 holes but I only need six and you can see where I put marks on the plywood for the holes I need.
> I have a plywood base butted up to the fence , I drilled a 1/4" hole, some where near the center and add a 1/4" dowel, you can see it coming up throw the indexer.
> Next I slide the indexer and base over till I can drill a hole in one of the 40 holes, this lines the two holes up. *Not really needed to be in line but sometime down the road it could help with another project.
> *
> This hole will be used for finding you six spokes and needs to be where ever the indexer needs it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to decide where we want the holed for the spokes to be and clamp down the base, and put the metal pin in our first of the six indexing holes.
> 
> *Be sure to clamp the base to the table before you start drilling.*
> 
> Place your blank over the 1/4" dowel and drill a 3/8" hole for your first hole, it doesn't matter where it is on the blank.
> 
> I'm using a 3/8 drill bit for my spoke holes, you'll see why later.
> 
> Place a 3/8" dowel in the first hole through the blank and into the indexer, this will keep everything lined up as you drill the next five holes using the index holes we marked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we add some shape to the hole drilled with a router bit.
> 
> Figure out how deep you want you shape and lock the drill press .
> 
> I use a 3/8" bearing on the router bit so it goes in our pre drilled 3/8" holes and guides the bit.
> 
> [I guess you really don't need to use a router bit with a bearing now that we have the indexer but old habits die hard. LOL]
> 
> I put the dowel back in to help hold the blank and then with the indexing pin removed route a hole and spin the indexer to the next hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the band saw and cut out the hub.
> It doesn't have to be round cause we're going to sand it to round.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the disk sander jig and make the hub fit the tyre inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some sanding and.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now hows that for a mag wheel?


are you showing you mount a router bit into drill press ?
and can you clean them up a little better with that brush thingy mounted in DP ?
GREAT LOOK :<))


----------



## woodshaver

htl said:


> *Mag Wheel Making Jig*
> 
> After seeing Bushmasters jig making it got me wanting to rethink my mag wheel making jig
> and this is what I came up with, and I must say it's much faster and safer to boot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using and indexer makes this job so much easier and really a no brainier from now on, just make up your mind how many spokes you want and jig it up.
> For even # holes at least. LOL
> 
> First I made up some hole blanks, don't cut them all the way through just enough to have a center hole and the out line for the wheels.
> I could have drawn them out but this is faster for me.
> I also didn't drill the center holes all the way through for this project.
> Doing it this way there's no worry's about them getting out of round ,which I would tend to do if I did this by hand. [Getting in a hurry]
> 
> That's what I love about this jig, before I had to mark where the center hole would be and then for the spokes and the marks I made were not perfect, now mark them with the hole saw place on the jig and everything is just right.
> 
> *Oo! *and one more tip always make one extra of your parts [wheel hub in this case] so if and when you want to make some more you just place the part on the jig and use it to set the jig up for the new parts no measuring needed.
> 
> *When mass producing something, anything you can do to have less steps or make simpler the better.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my indexer for 40 holes but I only need six and you can see where I put marks on the plywood for the holes I need.
> I have a plywood base butted up to the fence , I drilled a 1/4" hole, some where near the center and add a 1/4" dowel, you can see it coming up throw the indexer.
> Next I slide the indexer and base over till I can drill a hole in one of the 40 holes, this lines the two holes up. *Not really needed to be in line but sometime down the road it could help with another project.
> *
> This hole will be used for finding you six spokes and needs to be where ever the indexer needs it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to decide where we want the holed for the spokes to be and clamp down the base, and put the metal pin in our first of the six indexing holes.
> 
> *Be sure to clamp the base to the table before you start drilling.*
> 
> Place your blank over the 1/4" dowel and drill a 3/8" hole for your first hole, it doesn't matter where it is on the blank.
> 
> I'm using a 3/8 drill bit for my spoke holes, you'll see why later.
> 
> Place a 3/8" dowel in the first hole through the blank and into the indexer, this will keep everything lined up as you drill the next five holes using the index holes we marked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we add some shape to the hole drilled with a router bit.
> 
> Figure out how deep you want you shape and lock the drill press .
> 
> I use a 3/8" bearing on the router bit so it goes in our pre drilled 3/8" holes and guides the bit.
> 
> [I guess you really don't need to use a router bit with a bearing now that we have the indexer but old habits die hard. LOL]
> 
> I put the dowel back in to help hold the blank and then with the indexing pin removed route a hole and spin the indexer to the next hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the band saw and cut out the hub.
> It doesn't have to be round cause we're going to sand it to round.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the disk sander jig and make the hub fit the tyre inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some sanding and.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now hows that for a mag wheel?


Those are some really slick moves to get all that detail! Yes… maybe different wood might work better. Time to experiment!


----------



## Redoak49

htl said:


> *Mag Wheel Making Jig*
> 
> After seeing Bushmasters jig making it got me wanting to rethink my mag wheel making jig
> and this is what I came up with, and I must say it's much faster and safer to boot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using and indexer makes this job so much easier and really a no brainier from now on, just make up your mind how many spokes you want and jig it up.
> For even # holes at least. LOL
> 
> First I made up some hole blanks, don't cut them all the way through just enough to have a center hole and the out line for the wheels.
> I could have drawn them out but this is faster for me.
> I also didn't drill the center holes all the way through for this project.
> Doing it this way there's no worry's about them getting out of round ,which I would tend to do if I did this by hand. [Getting in a hurry]
> 
> That's what I love about this jig, before I had to mark where the center hole would be and then for the spokes and the marks I made were not perfect, now mark them with the hole saw place on the jig and everything is just right.
> 
> *Oo! *and one more tip always make one extra of your parts [wheel hub in this case] so if and when you want to make some more you just place the part on the jig and use it to set the jig up for the new parts no measuring needed.
> 
> *When mass producing something, anything you can do to have less steps or make simpler the better.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my indexer for 40 holes but I only need six and you can see where I put marks on the plywood for the holes I need.
> I have a plywood base butted up to the fence , I drilled a 1/4" hole, some where near the center and add a 1/4" dowel, you can see it coming up throw the indexer.
> Next I slide the indexer and base over till I can drill a hole in one of the 40 holes, this lines the two holes up. *Not really needed to be in line but sometime down the road it could help with another project.
> *
> This hole will be used for finding you six spokes and needs to be where ever the indexer needs it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to decide where we want the holed for the spokes to be and clamp down the base, and put the metal pin in our first of the six indexing holes.
> 
> *Be sure to clamp the base to the table before you start drilling.*
> 
> Place your blank over the 1/4" dowel and drill a 3/8" hole for your first hole, it doesn't matter where it is on the blank.
> 
> I'm using a 3/8 drill bit for my spoke holes, you'll see why later.
> 
> Place a 3/8" dowel in the first hole through the blank and into the indexer, this will keep everything lined up as you drill the next five holes using the index holes we marked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we add some shape to the hole drilled with a router bit.
> 
> Figure out how deep you want you shape and lock the drill press .
> 
> I use a 3/8" bearing on the router bit so it goes in our pre drilled 3/8" holes and guides the bit.
> 
> [I guess you really don't need to use a router bit with a bearing now that we have the indexer but old habits die hard. LOL]
> 
> I put the dowel back in to help hold the blank and then with the indexing pin removed route a hole and spin the indexer to the next hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the band saw and cut out the hub.
> It doesn't have to be round cause we're going to sand it to round.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the disk sander jig and make the hub fit the tyre inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some sanding and.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now hows that for a mag wheel?


Absolutely Awesome wheels and jigs.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Mag Wheel Making Jig*
> 
> After seeing Bushmasters jig making it got me wanting to rethink my mag wheel making jig
> and this is what I came up with, and I must say it's much faster and safer to boot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using and indexer makes this job so much easier and really a no brainier from now on, just make up your mind how many spokes you want and jig it up.
> For even # holes at least. LOL
> 
> First I made up some hole blanks, don't cut them all the way through just enough to have a center hole and the out line for the wheels.
> I could have drawn them out but this is faster for me.
> I also didn't drill the center holes all the way through for this project.
> Doing it this way there's no worry's about them getting out of round ,which I would tend to do if I did this by hand. [Getting in a hurry]
> 
> That's what I love about this jig, before I had to mark where the center hole would be and then for the spokes and the marks I made were not perfect, now mark them with the hole saw place on the jig and everything is just right.
> 
> *Oo! *and one more tip always make one extra of your parts [wheel hub in this case] so if and when you want to make some more you just place the part on the jig and use it to set the jig up for the new parts no measuring needed.
> 
> *When mass producing something, anything you can do to have less steps or make simpler the better.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my indexer for 40 holes but I only need six and you can see where I put marks on the plywood for the holes I need.
> I have a plywood base butted up to the fence , I drilled a 1/4" hole, some where near the center and add a 1/4" dowel, you can see it coming up throw the indexer.
> Next I slide the indexer and base over till I can drill a hole in one of the 40 holes, this lines the two holes up. *Not really needed to be in line but sometime down the road it could help with another project.
> *
> This hole will be used for finding you six spokes and needs to be where ever the indexer needs it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to decide where we want the holed for the spokes to be and clamp down the base, and put the metal pin in our first of the six indexing holes.
> 
> *Be sure to clamp the base to the table before you start drilling.*
> 
> Place your blank over the 1/4" dowel and drill a 3/8" hole for your first hole, it doesn't matter where it is on the blank.
> 
> I'm using a 3/8 drill bit for my spoke holes, you'll see why later.
> 
> Place a 3/8" dowel in the first hole through the blank and into the indexer, this will keep everything lined up as you drill the next five holes using the index holes we marked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we add some shape to the hole drilled with a router bit.
> 
> Figure out how deep you want you shape and lock the drill press .
> 
> I use a 3/8" bearing on the router bit so it goes in our pre drilled 3/8" holes and guides the bit.
> 
> [I guess you really don't need to use a router bit with a bearing now that we have the indexer but old habits die hard. LOL]
> 
> I put the dowel back in to help hold the blank and then with the indexing pin removed route a hole and spin the indexer to the next hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the band saw and cut out the hub.
> It doesn't have to be round cause we're going to sand it to round.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the disk sander jig and make the hub fit the tyre inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some sanding and.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now hows that for a mag wheel?


sorry about brush thingy but seen it in your other wheel blog ? :<))
PLUS 
i never thougth bout put router bit into DP great idea :<))


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Mag Wheel Making Jig*
> 
> After seeing Bushmasters jig making it got me wanting to rethink my mag wheel making jig
> and this is what I came up with, and I must say it's much faster and safer to boot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using and indexer makes this job so much easier and really a no brainier from now on, just make up your mind how many spokes you want and jig it up.
> For even # holes at least. LOL
> 
> First I made up some hole blanks, don't cut them all the way through just enough to have a center hole and the out line for the wheels.
> I could have drawn them out but this is faster for me.
> I also didn't drill the center holes all the way through for this project.
> Doing it this way there's no worry's about them getting out of round ,which I would tend to do if I did this by hand. [Getting in a hurry]
> 
> That's what I love about this jig, before I had to mark where the center hole would be and then for the spokes and the marks I made were not perfect, now mark them with the hole saw place on the jig and everything is just right.
> 
> *Oo! *and one more tip always make one extra of your parts [wheel hub in this case] so if and when you want to make some more you just place the part on the jig and use it to set the jig up for the new parts no measuring needed.
> 
> *When mass producing something, anything you can do to have less steps or make simpler the better.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my indexer for 40 holes but I only need six and you can see where I put marks on the plywood for the holes I need.
> I have a plywood base butted up to the fence , I drilled a 1/4" hole, some where near the center and add a 1/4" dowel, you can see it coming up throw the indexer.
> Next I slide the indexer and base over till I can drill a hole in one of the 40 holes, this lines the two holes up. *Not really needed to be in line but sometime down the road it could help with another project.
> *
> This hole will be used for finding you six spokes and needs to be where ever the indexer needs it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to decide where we want the holed for the spokes to be and clamp down the base, and put the metal pin in our first of the six indexing holes.
> 
> *Be sure to clamp the base to the table before you start drilling.*
> 
> Place your blank over the 1/4" dowel and drill a 3/8" hole for your first hole, it doesn't matter where it is on the blank.
> 
> I'm using a 3/8 drill bit for my spoke holes, you'll see why later.
> 
> Place a 3/8" dowel in the first hole through the blank and into the indexer, this will keep everything lined up as you drill the next five holes using the index holes we marked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we add some shape to the hole drilled with a router bit.
> 
> Figure out how deep you want you shape and lock the drill press .
> 
> I use a 3/8" bearing on the router bit so it goes in our pre drilled 3/8" holes and guides the bit.
> 
> [I guess you really don't need to use a router bit with a bearing now that we have the indexer but old habits die hard. LOL]
> 
> I put the dowel back in to help hold the blank and then with the indexing pin removed route a hole and spin the indexer to the next hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the band saw and cut out the hub.
> It doesn't have to be round cause we're going to sand it to round.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the disk sander jig and make the hub fit the tyre inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some sanding and.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now hows that for a mag wheel?


very nice, great detail.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Mag Wheel Making Jig*
> 
> After seeing Bushmasters jig making it got me wanting to rethink my mag wheel making jig
> and this is what I came up with, and I must say it's much faster and safer to boot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using and indexer makes this job so much easier and really a no brainier from now on, just make up your mind how many spokes you want and jig it up.
> For even # holes at least. LOL
> 
> First I made up some hole blanks, don't cut them all the way through just enough to have a center hole and the out line for the wheels.
> I could have drawn them out but this is faster for me.
> I also didn't drill the center holes all the way through for this project.
> Doing it this way there's no worry's about them getting out of round ,which I would tend to do if I did this by hand. [Getting in a hurry]
> 
> That's what I love about this jig, before I had to mark where the center hole would be and then for the spokes and the marks I made were not perfect, now mark them with the hole saw place on the jig and everything is just right.
> 
> *Oo! *and one more tip always make one extra of your parts [wheel hub in this case] so if and when you want to make some more you just place the part on the jig and use it to set the jig up for the new parts no measuring needed.
> 
> *When mass producing something, anything you can do to have less steps or make simpler the better.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my indexer for 40 holes but I only need six and you can see where I put marks on the plywood for the holes I need.
> I have a plywood base butted up to the fence , I drilled a 1/4" hole, some where near the center and add a 1/4" dowel, you can see it coming up throw the indexer.
> Next I slide the indexer and base over till I can drill a hole in one of the 40 holes, this lines the two holes up. *Not really needed to be in line but sometime down the road it could help with another project.
> *
> This hole will be used for finding you six spokes and needs to be where ever the indexer needs it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to decide where we want the holed for the spokes to be and clamp down the base, and put the metal pin in our first of the six indexing holes.
> 
> *Be sure to clamp the base to the table before you start drilling.*
> 
> Place your blank over the 1/4" dowel and drill a 3/8" hole for your first hole, it doesn't matter where it is on the blank.
> 
> I'm using a 3/8 drill bit for my spoke holes, you'll see why later.
> 
> Place a 3/8" dowel in the first hole through the blank and into the indexer, this will keep everything lined up as you drill the next five holes using the index holes we marked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we add some shape to the hole drilled with a router bit.
> 
> Figure out how deep you want you shape and lock the drill press .
> 
> I use a 3/8" bearing on the router bit so it goes in our pre drilled 3/8" holes and guides the bit.
> 
> [I guess you really don't need to use a router bit with a bearing now that we have the indexer but old habits die hard. LOL]
> 
> I put the dowel back in to help hold the blank and then with the indexing pin removed route a hole and spin the indexer to the next hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the band saw and cut out the hub.
> It doesn't have to be round cause we're going to sand it to round.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the disk sander jig and make the hub fit the tyre inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some sanding and.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now hows that for a mag wheel?


I have never liked getting any closer to a shaper cutter or router bit than I have to GR#8, I guess that's why I like using the bearing when routing the holes .
I knew exactly what you were talking about when you said brushy thing. LOL


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Mag Wheel Making Jig*
> 
> After seeing Bushmasters jig making it got me wanting to rethink my mag wheel making jig
> and this is what I came up with, and I must say it's much faster and safer to boot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using and indexer makes this job so much easier and really a no brainier from now on, just make up your mind how many spokes you want and jig it up.
> For even # holes at least. LOL
> 
> First I made up some hole blanks, don't cut them all the way through just enough to have a center hole and the out line for the wheels.
> I could have drawn them out but this is faster for me.
> I also didn't drill the center holes all the way through for this project.
> Doing it this way there's no worry's about them getting out of round ,which I would tend to do if I did this by hand. [Getting in a hurry]
> 
> That's what I love about this jig, before I had to mark where the center hole would be and then for the spokes and the marks I made were not perfect, now mark them with the hole saw place on the jig and everything is just right.
> 
> *Oo! *and one more tip always make one extra of your parts [wheel hub in this case] so if and when you want to make some more you just place the part on the jig and use it to set the jig up for the new parts no measuring needed.
> 
> *When mass producing something, anything you can do to have less steps or make simpler the better.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my indexer for 40 holes but I only need six and you can see where I put marks on the plywood for the holes I need.
> I have a plywood base butted up to the fence , I drilled a 1/4" hole, some where near the center and add a 1/4" dowel, you can see it coming up throw the indexer.
> Next I slide the indexer and base over till I can drill a hole in one of the 40 holes, this lines the two holes up. *Not really needed to be in line but sometime down the road it could help with another project.
> *
> This hole will be used for finding you six spokes and needs to be where ever the indexer needs it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to decide where we want the holed for the spokes to be and clamp down the base, and put the metal pin in our first of the six indexing holes.
> 
> *Be sure to clamp the base to the table before you start drilling.*
> 
> Place your blank over the 1/4" dowel and drill a 3/8" hole for your first hole, it doesn't matter where it is on the blank.
> 
> I'm using a 3/8 drill bit for my spoke holes, you'll see why later.
> 
> Place a 3/8" dowel in the first hole through the blank and into the indexer, this will keep everything lined up as you drill the next five holes using the index holes we marked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we add some shape to the hole drilled with a router bit.
> 
> Figure out how deep you want you shape and lock the drill press .
> 
> I use a 3/8" bearing on the router bit so it goes in our pre drilled 3/8" holes and guides the bit.
> 
> [I guess you really don't need to use a router bit with a bearing now that we have the indexer but old habits die hard. LOL]
> 
> I put the dowel back in to help hold the blank and then with the indexing pin removed route a hole and spin the indexer to the next hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the band saw and cut out the hub.
> It doesn't have to be round cause we're going to sand it to round.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the disk sander jig and make the hub fit the tyre inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some sanding and.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now hows that for a mag wheel?





> Those are some really slick moves to get all that detail! Yes… maybe different wood might work better. *Time to experiment!
> *
> - woodshaver Tony C


Tony I thought that's what I was doing, but I do like it when an experiment works the first time and I don't have to make any more. LOL


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Mag Wheel Making Jig*
> 
> After seeing Bushmasters jig making it got me wanting to rethink my mag wheel making jig
> and this is what I came up with, and I must say it's much faster and safer to boot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using and indexer makes this job so much easier and really a no brainier from now on, just make up your mind how many spokes you want and jig it up.
> For even # holes at least. LOL
> 
> First I made up some hole blanks, don't cut them all the way through just enough to have a center hole and the out line for the wheels.
> I could have drawn them out but this is faster for me.
> I also didn't drill the center holes all the way through for this project.
> Doing it this way there's no worry's about them getting out of round ,which I would tend to do if I did this by hand. [Getting in a hurry]
> 
> That's what I love about this jig, before I had to mark where the center hole would be and then for the spokes and the marks I made were not perfect, now mark them with the hole saw place on the jig and everything is just right.
> 
> *Oo! *and one more tip always make one extra of your parts [wheel hub in this case] so if and when you want to make some more you just place the part on the jig and use it to set the jig up for the new parts no measuring needed.
> 
> *When mass producing something, anything you can do to have less steps or make simpler the better.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my indexer for 40 holes but I only need six and you can see where I put marks on the plywood for the holes I need.
> I have a plywood base butted up to the fence , I drilled a 1/4" hole, some where near the center and add a 1/4" dowel, you can see it coming up throw the indexer.
> Next I slide the indexer and base over till I can drill a hole in one of the 40 holes, this lines the two holes up. *Not really needed to be in line but sometime down the road it could help with another project.
> *
> This hole will be used for finding you six spokes and needs to be where ever the indexer needs it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to decide where we want the holed for the spokes to be and clamp down the base, and put the metal pin in our first of the six indexing holes.
> 
> *Be sure to clamp the base to the table before you start drilling.*
> 
> Place your blank over the 1/4" dowel and drill a 3/8" hole for your first hole, it doesn't matter where it is on the blank.
> 
> I'm using a 3/8 drill bit for my spoke holes, you'll see why later.
> 
> Place a 3/8" dowel in the first hole through the blank and into the indexer, this will keep everything lined up as you drill the next five holes using the index holes we marked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we add some shape to the hole drilled with a router bit.
> 
> Figure out how deep you want you shape and lock the drill press .
> 
> I use a 3/8" bearing on the router bit so it goes in our pre drilled 3/8" holes and guides the bit.
> 
> [I guess you really don't need to use a router bit with a bearing now that we have the indexer but old habits die hard. LOL]
> 
> I put the dowel back in to help hold the blank and then with the indexing pin removed route a hole and spin the indexer to the next hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the band saw and cut out the hub.
> It doesn't have to be round cause we're going to sand it to round.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the disk sander jig and make the hub fit the tyre inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some sanding and.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now hows that for a mag wheel?


Those are great looking mags *#4*. You'll do anything to avoid making tracks (train type).

May I suggest you try maple. A tad more expensive but the results are worth it.

I use a large 8" diameter flapper mounted on a slow speed grinder… while it is large, it's incredible the tight spots it can get into,









Prior to that, I have used this ball sander (1/4" shank mounted on drill press),









and this make your own sander (also 1/4" shank mounted on drill press),









Another option might be these small sanders (to suit Dremels and such). I've never used them but have considered them many times.

*PS.* With these magical mags, it's not too hard to imagine your next vehicle build….


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Mag Wheel Making Jig*
> 
> After seeing Bushmasters jig making it got me wanting to rethink my mag wheel making jig
> and this is what I came up with, and I must say it's much faster and safer to boot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using and indexer makes this job so much easier and really a no brainier from now on, just make up your mind how many spokes you want and jig it up.
> For even # holes at least. LOL
> 
> First I made up some hole blanks, don't cut them all the way through just enough to have a center hole and the out line for the wheels.
> I could have drawn them out but this is faster for me.
> I also didn't drill the center holes all the way through for this project.
> Doing it this way there's no worry's about them getting out of round ,which I would tend to do if I did this by hand. [Getting in a hurry]
> 
> That's what I love about this jig, before I had to mark where the center hole would be and then for the spokes and the marks I made were not perfect, now mark them with the hole saw place on the jig and everything is just right.
> 
> *Oo! *and one more tip always make one extra of your parts [wheel hub in this case] so if and when you want to make some more you just place the part on the jig and use it to set the jig up for the new parts no measuring needed.
> 
> *When mass producing something, anything you can do to have less steps or make simpler the better.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my indexer for 40 holes but I only need six and you can see where I put marks on the plywood for the holes I need.
> I have a plywood base butted up to the fence , I drilled a 1/4" hole, some where near the center and add a 1/4" dowel, you can see it coming up throw the indexer.
> Next I slide the indexer and base over till I can drill a hole in one of the 40 holes, this lines the two holes up. *Not really needed to be in line but sometime down the road it could help with another project.
> *
> This hole will be used for finding you six spokes and needs to be where ever the indexer needs it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to decide where we want the holed for the spokes to be and clamp down the base, and put the metal pin in our first of the six indexing holes.
> 
> *Be sure to clamp the base to the table before you start drilling.*
> 
> Place your blank over the 1/4" dowel and drill a 3/8" hole for your first hole, it doesn't matter where it is on the blank.
> 
> I'm using a 3/8 drill bit for my spoke holes, you'll see why later.
> 
> Place a 3/8" dowel in the first hole through the blank and into the indexer, this will keep everything lined up as you drill the next five holes using the index holes we marked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we add some shape to the hole drilled with a router bit.
> 
> Figure out how deep you want you shape and lock the drill press .
> 
> I use a 3/8" bearing on the router bit so it goes in our pre drilled 3/8" holes and guides the bit.
> 
> [I guess you really don't need to use a router bit with a bearing now that we have the indexer but old habits die hard. LOL]
> 
> I put the dowel back in to help hold the blank and then with the indexing pin removed route a hole and spin the indexer to the next hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the band saw and cut out the hub.
> It doesn't have to be round cause we're going to sand it to round.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the disk sander jig and make the hub fit the tyre inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some sanding and.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now hows that for a mag wheel?


Ducky have you forgotten already the one I'm working on now!!! LOL
Starting the wheels tomorrow.


----------



## woodshaver

htl said:


> *Mag Wheel Making Jig*
> 
> After seeing Bushmasters jig making it got me wanting to rethink my mag wheel making jig
> and this is what I came up with, and I must say it's much faster and safer to boot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using and indexer makes this job so much easier and really a no brainier from now on, just make up your mind how many spokes you want and jig it up.
> For even # holes at least. LOL
> 
> First I made up some hole blanks, don't cut them all the way through just enough to have a center hole and the out line for the wheels.
> I could have drawn them out but this is faster for me.
> I also didn't drill the center holes all the way through for this project.
> Doing it this way there's no worry's about them getting out of round ,which I would tend to do if I did this by hand. [Getting in a hurry]
> 
> That's what I love about this jig, before I had to mark where the center hole would be and then for the spokes and the marks I made were not perfect, now mark them with the hole saw place on the jig and everything is just right.
> 
> *Oo! *and one more tip always make one extra of your parts [wheel hub in this case] so if and when you want to make some more you just place the part on the jig and use it to set the jig up for the new parts no measuring needed.
> 
> *When mass producing something, anything you can do to have less steps or make simpler the better.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my indexer for 40 holes but I only need six and you can see where I put marks on the plywood for the holes I need.
> I have a plywood base butted up to the fence , I drilled a 1/4" hole, some where near the center and add a 1/4" dowel, you can see it coming up throw the indexer.
> Next I slide the indexer and base over till I can drill a hole in one of the 40 holes, this lines the two holes up. *Not really needed to be in line but sometime down the road it could help with another project.
> *
> This hole will be used for finding you six spokes and needs to be where ever the indexer needs it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to decide where we want the holed for the spokes to be and clamp down the base, and put the metal pin in our first of the six indexing holes.
> 
> *Be sure to clamp the base to the table before you start drilling.*
> 
> Place your blank over the 1/4" dowel and drill a 3/8" hole for your first hole, it doesn't matter where it is on the blank.
> 
> I'm using a 3/8 drill bit for my spoke holes, you'll see why later.
> 
> Place a 3/8" dowel in the first hole through the blank and into the indexer, this will keep everything lined up as you drill the next five holes using the index holes we marked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we add some shape to the hole drilled with a router bit.
> 
> Figure out how deep you want you shape and lock the drill press .
> 
> I use a 3/8" bearing on the router bit so it goes in our pre drilled 3/8" holes and guides the bit.
> 
> [I guess you really don't need to use a router bit with a bearing now that we have the indexer but old habits die hard. LOL]
> 
> I put the dowel back in to help hold the blank and then with the indexing pin removed route a hole and spin the indexer to the next hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the band saw and cut out the hub.
> It doesn't have to be round cause we're going to sand it to round.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the disk sander jig and make the hub fit the tyre inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some sanding and.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now hows that for a mag wheel?


Sorry….Should have said… time for more experimenting! 
I know you got this… it's just a matter of time. Close spinning bit's make me nervous also!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Mag Wheel Making Jig*
> 
> After seeing Bushmasters jig making it got me wanting to rethink my mag wheel making jig
> and this is what I came up with, and I must say it's much faster and safer to boot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using and indexer makes this job so much easier and really a no brainier from now on, just make up your mind how many spokes you want and jig it up.
> For even # holes at least. LOL
> 
> First I made up some hole blanks, don't cut them all the way through just enough to have a center hole and the out line for the wheels.
> I could have drawn them out but this is faster for me.
> I also didn't drill the center holes all the way through for this project.
> Doing it this way there's no worry's about them getting out of round ,which I would tend to do if I did this by hand. [Getting in a hurry]
> 
> That's what I love about this jig, before I had to mark where the center hole would be and then for the spokes and the marks I made were not perfect, now mark them with the hole saw place on the jig and everything is just right.
> 
> *Oo! *and one more tip always make one extra of your parts [wheel hub in this case] so if and when you want to make some more you just place the part on the jig and use it to set the jig up for the new parts no measuring needed.
> 
> *When mass producing something, anything you can do to have less steps or make simpler the better.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my indexer for 40 holes but I only need six and you can see where I put marks on the plywood for the holes I need.
> I have a plywood base butted up to the fence , I drilled a 1/4" hole, some where near the center and add a 1/4" dowel, you can see it coming up throw the indexer.
> Next I slide the indexer and base over till I can drill a hole in one of the 40 holes, this lines the two holes up. *Not really needed to be in line but sometime down the road it could help with another project.
> *
> This hole will be used for finding you six spokes and needs to be where ever the indexer needs it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to decide where we want the holed for the spokes to be and clamp down the base, and put the metal pin in our first of the six indexing holes.
> 
> *Be sure to clamp the base to the table before you start drilling.*
> 
> Place your blank over the 1/4" dowel and drill a 3/8" hole for your first hole, it doesn't matter where it is on the blank.
> 
> I'm using a 3/8 drill bit for my spoke holes, you'll see why later.
> 
> Place a 3/8" dowel in the first hole through the blank and into the indexer, this will keep everything lined up as you drill the next five holes using the index holes we marked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we add some shape to the hole drilled with a router bit.
> 
> Figure out how deep you want you shape and lock the drill press .
> 
> I use a 3/8" bearing on the router bit so it goes in our pre drilled 3/8" holes and guides the bit.
> 
> [I guess you really don't need to use a router bit with a bearing now that we have the indexer but old habits die hard. LOL]
> 
> I put the dowel back in to help hold the blank and then with the indexing pin removed route a hole and spin the indexer to the next hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the band saw and cut out the hub.
> It doesn't have to be round cause we're going to sand it to round.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the disk sander jig and make the hub fit the tyre inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some sanding and.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now hows that for a mag wheel?


Nothing to be sorry about Tony!!!
I know you meant well, Just me spouting off and having fun with you guys and gals and even a Duck or two.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Mag Wheel Making Jig*
> 
> After seeing Bushmasters jig making it got me wanting to rethink my mag wheel making jig
> and this is what I came up with, and I must say it's much faster and safer to boot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using and indexer makes this job so much easier and really a no brainier from now on, just make up your mind how many spokes you want and jig it up.
> For even # holes at least. LOL
> 
> First I made up some hole blanks, don't cut them all the way through just enough to have a center hole and the out line for the wheels.
> I could have drawn them out but this is faster for me.
> I also didn't drill the center holes all the way through for this project.
> Doing it this way there's no worry's about them getting out of round ,which I would tend to do if I did this by hand. [Getting in a hurry]
> 
> That's what I love about this jig, before I had to mark where the center hole would be and then for the spokes and the marks I made were not perfect, now mark them with the hole saw place on the jig and everything is just right.
> 
> *Oo! *and one more tip always make one extra of your parts [wheel hub in this case] so if and when you want to make some more you just place the part on the jig and use it to set the jig up for the new parts no measuring needed.
> 
> *When mass producing something, anything you can do to have less steps or make simpler the better.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my indexer for 40 holes but I only need six and you can see where I put marks on the plywood for the holes I need.
> I have a plywood base butted up to the fence , I drilled a 1/4" hole, some where near the center and add a 1/4" dowel, you can see it coming up throw the indexer.
> Next I slide the indexer and base over till I can drill a hole in one of the 40 holes, this lines the two holes up. *Not really needed to be in line but sometime down the road it could help with another project.
> *
> This hole will be used for finding you six spokes and needs to be where ever the indexer needs it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to decide where we want the holed for the spokes to be and clamp down the base, and put the metal pin in our first of the six indexing holes.
> 
> *Be sure to clamp the base to the table before you start drilling.*
> 
> Place your blank over the 1/4" dowel and drill a 3/8" hole for your first hole, it doesn't matter where it is on the blank.
> 
> I'm using a 3/8 drill bit for my spoke holes, you'll see why later.
> 
> Place a 3/8" dowel in the first hole through the blank and into the indexer, this will keep everything lined up as you drill the next five holes using the index holes we marked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we add some shape to the hole drilled with a router bit.
> 
> Figure out how deep you want you shape and lock the drill press .
> 
> I use a 3/8" bearing on the router bit so it goes in our pre drilled 3/8" holes and guides the bit.
> 
> [I guess you really don't need to use a router bit with a bearing now that we have the indexer but old habits die hard. LOL]
> 
> I put the dowel back in to help hold the blank and then with the indexing pin removed route a hole and spin the indexer to the next hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the band saw and cut out the hub.
> It doesn't have to be round cause we're going to sand it to round.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the disk sander jig and make the hub fit the tyre inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some sanding and.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now hows that for a mag wheel?





> Ducky have you forgotten already the one I m working on now!!! LOL
> Starting the wheels tomorrow.
> 
> - htl


Thought that buggy already had it's wheels earmarked… gotta see those mags spinning real soon.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Mag Wheel Making Jig*
> 
> After seeing Bushmasters jig making it got me wanting to rethink my mag wheel making jig
> and this is what I came up with, and I must say it's much faster and safer to boot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using and indexer makes this job so much easier and really a no brainier from now on, just make up your mind how many spokes you want and jig it up.
> For even # holes at least. LOL
> 
> First I made up some hole blanks, don't cut them all the way through just enough to have a center hole and the out line for the wheels.
> I could have drawn them out but this is faster for me.
> I also didn't drill the center holes all the way through for this project.
> Doing it this way there's no worry's about them getting out of round ,which I would tend to do if I did this by hand. [Getting in a hurry]
> 
> That's what I love about this jig, before I had to mark where the center hole would be and then for the spokes and the marks I made were not perfect, now mark them with the hole saw place on the jig and everything is just right.
> 
> *Oo! *and one more tip always make one extra of your parts [wheel hub in this case] so if and when you want to make some more you just place the part on the jig and use it to set the jig up for the new parts no measuring needed.
> 
> *When mass producing something, anything you can do to have less steps or make simpler the better.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my indexer for 40 holes but I only need six and you can see where I put marks on the plywood for the holes I need.
> I have a plywood base butted up to the fence , I drilled a 1/4" hole, some where near the center and add a 1/4" dowel, you can see it coming up throw the indexer.
> Next I slide the indexer and base over till I can drill a hole in one of the 40 holes, this lines the two holes up. *Not really needed to be in line but sometime down the road it could help with another project.
> *
> This hole will be used for finding you six spokes and needs to be where ever the indexer needs it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to decide where we want the holed for the spokes to be and clamp down the base, and put the metal pin in our first of the six indexing holes.
> 
> *Be sure to clamp the base to the table before you start drilling.*
> 
> Place your blank over the 1/4" dowel and drill a 3/8" hole for your first hole, it doesn't matter where it is on the blank.
> 
> I'm using a 3/8 drill bit for my spoke holes, you'll see why later.
> 
> Place a 3/8" dowel in the first hole through the blank and into the indexer, this will keep everything lined up as you drill the next five holes using the index holes we marked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we add some shape to the hole drilled with a router bit.
> 
> Figure out how deep you want you shape and lock the drill press .
> 
> I use a 3/8" bearing on the router bit so it goes in our pre drilled 3/8" holes and guides the bit.
> 
> [I guess you really don't need to use a router bit with a bearing now that we have the indexer but old habits die hard. LOL]
> 
> I put the dowel back in to help hold the blank and then with the indexing pin removed route a hole and spin the indexer to the next hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the band saw and cut out the hub.
> It doesn't have to be round cause we're going to sand it to round.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the disk sander jig and make the hub fit the tyre inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some sanding and.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now hows that for a mag wheel?


You may have missed it but from the beginning I wrote about new wheels.
They would have been alright for the back but I think it needs some smaller one for the front so to get them to match, new wheels.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Mag Wheel Making Jig*
> 
> After seeing Bushmasters jig making it got me wanting to rethink my mag wheel making jig
> and this is what I came up with, and I must say it's much faster and safer to boot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using and indexer makes this job so much easier and really a no brainier from now on, just make up your mind how many spokes you want and jig it up.
> For even # holes at least. LOL
> 
> First I made up some hole blanks, don't cut them all the way through just enough to have a center hole and the out line for the wheels.
> I could have drawn them out but this is faster for me.
> I also didn't drill the center holes all the way through for this project.
> Doing it this way there's no worry's about them getting out of round ,which I would tend to do if I did this by hand. [Getting in a hurry]
> 
> That's what I love about this jig, before I had to mark where the center hole would be and then for the spokes and the marks I made were not perfect, now mark them with the hole saw place on the jig and everything is just right.
> 
> *Oo! *and one more tip always make one extra of your parts [wheel hub in this case] so if and when you want to make some more you just place the part on the jig and use it to set the jig up for the new parts no measuring needed.
> 
> *When mass producing something, anything you can do to have less steps or make simpler the better.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my indexer for 40 holes but I only need six and you can see where I put marks on the plywood for the holes I need.
> I have a plywood base butted up to the fence , I drilled a 1/4" hole, some where near the center and add a 1/4" dowel, you can see it coming up throw the indexer.
> Next I slide the indexer and base over till I can drill a hole in one of the 40 holes, this lines the two holes up. *Not really needed to be in line but sometime down the road it could help with another project.
> *
> This hole will be used for finding you six spokes and needs to be where ever the indexer needs it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to decide where we want the holed for the spokes to be and clamp down the base, and put the metal pin in our first of the six indexing holes.
> 
> *Be sure to clamp the base to the table before you start drilling.*
> 
> Place your blank over the 1/4" dowel and drill a 3/8" hole for your first hole, it doesn't matter where it is on the blank.
> 
> I'm using a 3/8 drill bit for my spoke holes, you'll see why later.
> 
> Place a 3/8" dowel in the first hole through the blank and into the indexer, this will keep everything lined up as you drill the next five holes using the index holes we marked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we add some shape to the hole drilled with a router bit.
> 
> Figure out how deep you want you shape and lock the drill press .
> 
> I use a 3/8" bearing on the router bit so it goes in our pre drilled 3/8" holes and guides the bit.
> 
> [I guess you really don't need to use a router bit with a bearing now that we have the indexer but old habits die hard. LOL]
> 
> I put the dowel back in to help hold the blank and then with the indexing pin removed route a hole and spin the indexer to the next hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the band saw and cut out the hub.
> It doesn't have to be round cause we're going to sand it to round.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the disk sander jig and make the hub fit the tyre inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some sanding and.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now hows that for a mag wheel?


I've reread the instructions and found I needed to reword a few things so it is easier to follow, don't want any one getting last..
It never false that you don't take the one picture that would make everything so much clearer.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Mag Wheel Making Jig*
> 
> After seeing Bushmasters jig making it got me wanting to rethink my mag wheel making jig
> and this is what I came up with, and I must say it's much faster and safer to boot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using and indexer makes this job so much easier and really a no brainier from now on, just make up your mind how many spokes you want and jig it up.
> For even # holes at least. LOL
> 
> First I made up some hole blanks, don't cut them all the way through just enough to have a center hole and the out line for the wheels.
> I could have drawn them out but this is faster for me.
> I also didn't drill the center holes all the way through for this project.
> Doing it this way there's no worry's about them getting out of round ,which I would tend to do if I did this by hand. [Getting in a hurry]
> 
> That's what I love about this jig, before I had to mark where the center hole would be and then for the spokes and the marks I made were not perfect, now mark them with the hole saw place on the jig and everything is just right.
> 
> *Oo! *and one more tip always make one extra of your parts [wheel hub in this case] so if and when you want to make some more you just place the part on the jig and use it to set the jig up for the new parts no measuring needed.
> 
> *When mass producing something, anything you can do to have less steps or make simpler the better.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my indexer for 40 holes but I only need six and you can see where I put marks on the plywood for the holes I need.
> I have a plywood base butted up to the fence , I drilled a 1/4" hole, some where near the center and add a 1/4" dowel, you can see it coming up throw the indexer.
> Next I slide the indexer and base over till I can drill a hole in one of the 40 holes, this lines the two holes up. *Not really needed to be in line but sometime down the road it could help with another project.
> *
> This hole will be used for finding you six spokes and needs to be where ever the indexer needs it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to decide where we want the holed for the spokes to be and clamp down the base, and put the metal pin in our first of the six indexing holes.
> 
> *Be sure to clamp the base to the table before you start drilling.*
> 
> Place your blank over the 1/4" dowel and drill a 3/8" hole for your first hole, it doesn't matter where it is on the blank.
> 
> I'm using a 3/8 drill bit for my spoke holes, you'll see why later.
> 
> Place a 3/8" dowel in the first hole through the blank and into the indexer, this will keep everything lined up as you drill the next five holes using the index holes we marked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we add some shape to the hole drilled with a router bit.
> 
> Figure out how deep you want you shape and lock the drill press .
> 
> I use a 3/8" bearing on the router bit so it goes in our pre drilled 3/8" holes and guides the bit.
> 
> [I guess you really don't need to use a router bit with a bearing now that we have the indexer but old habits die hard. LOL]
> 
> I put the dowel back in to help hold the blank and then with the indexing pin removed route a hole and spin the indexer to the next hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the band saw and cut out the hub.
> It doesn't have to be round cause we're going to sand it to round.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the disk sander jig and make the hub fit the tyre inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some sanding and.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now hows that for a mag wheel?





> ..... [I guess you really don t need to use a router bit with a bearing now that we have the indexer but old habits die hard. LOL]....
> 
> - htl


Let old habits die hard or that LOL will quickly change to a YOWL (no acronym)... Even with the jig, the bearing will steady the work.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Mag Wheel Making Jig*
> 
> After seeing Bushmasters jig making it got me wanting to rethink my mag wheel making jig
> and this is what I came up with, and I must say it's much faster and safer to boot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using and indexer makes this job so much easier and really a no brainier from now on, just make up your mind how many spokes you want and jig it up.
> For even # holes at least. LOL
> 
> First I made up some hole blanks, don't cut them all the way through just enough to have a center hole and the out line for the wheels.
> I could have drawn them out but this is faster for me.
> I also didn't drill the center holes all the way through for this project.
> Doing it this way there's no worry's about them getting out of round ,which I would tend to do if I did this by hand. [Getting in a hurry]
> 
> That's what I love about this jig, before I had to mark where the center hole would be and then for the spokes and the marks I made were not perfect, now mark them with the hole saw place on the jig and everything is just right.
> 
> *Oo! *and one more tip always make one extra of your parts [wheel hub in this case] so if and when you want to make some more you just place the part on the jig and use it to set the jig up for the new parts no measuring needed.
> 
> *When mass producing something, anything you can do to have less steps or make simpler the better.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my indexer for 40 holes but I only need six and you can see where I put marks on the plywood for the holes I need.
> I have a plywood base butted up to the fence , I drilled a 1/4" hole, some where near the center and add a 1/4" dowel, you can see it coming up throw the indexer.
> Next I slide the indexer and base over till I can drill a hole in one of the 40 holes, this lines the two holes up. *Not really needed to be in line but sometime down the road it could help with another project.
> *
> This hole will be used for finding you six spokes and needs to be where ever the indexer needs it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to decide where we want the holed for the spokes to be and clamp down the base, and put the metal pin in our first of the six indexing holes.
> 
> *Be sure to clamp the base to the table before you start drilling.*
> 
> Place your blank over the 1/4" dowel and drill a 3/8" hole for your first hole, it doesn't matter where it is on the blank.
> 
> I'm using a 3/8 drill bit for my spoke holes, you'll see why later.
> 
> Place a 3/8" dowel in the first hole through the blank and into the indexer, this will keep everything lined up as you drill the next five holes using the index holes we marked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we add some shape to the hole drilled with a router bit.
> 
> Figure out how deep you want you shape and lock the drill press .
> 
> I use a 3/8" bearing on the router bit so it goes in our pre drilled 3/8" holes and guides the bit.
> 
> [I guess you really don't need to use a router bit with a bearing now that we have the indexer but old habits die hard. LOL]
> 
> I put the dowel back in to help hold the blank and then with the indexing pin removed route a hole and spin the indexer to the next hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the band saw and cut out the hub.
> It doesn't have to be round cause we're going to sand it to round.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the disk sander jig and make the hub fit the tyre inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some sanding and.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now hows that for a mag wheel?





> ..... new wheels…..
> 
> - htl


Hey *#4*, if you keep improving/developing the wheel, you can retire the body,










the vehicle's… not yours!


----------



## bj383ss

htl said:


> *Mag Wheel Making Jig*
> 
> After seeing Bushmasters jig making it got me wanting to rethink my mag wheel making jig
> and this is what I came up with, and I must say it's much faster and safer to boot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using and indexer makes this job so much easier and really a no brainier from now on, just make up your mind how many spokes you want and jig it up.
> For even # holes at least. LOL
> 
> First I made up some hole blanks, don't cut them all the way through just enough to have a center hole and the out line for the wheels.
> I could have drawn them out but this is faster for me.
> I also didn't drill the center holes all the way through for this project.
> Doing it this way there's no worry's about them getting out of round ,which I would tend to do if I did this by hand. [Getting in a hurry]
> 
> That's what I love about this jig, before I had to mark where the center hole would be and then for the spokes and the marks I made were not perfect, now mark them with the hole saw place on the jig and everything is just right.
> 
> *Oo! *and one more tip always make one extra of your parts [wheel hub in this case] so if and when you want to make some more you just place the part on the jig and use it to set the jig up for the new parts no measuring needed.
> 
> *When mass producing something, anything you can do to have less steps or make simpler the better.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my indexer for 40 holes but I only need six and you can see where I put marks on the plywood for the holes I need.
> I have a plywood base butted up to the fence , I drilled a 1/4" hole, some where near the center and add a 1/4" dowel, you can see it coming up throw the indexer.
> Next I slide the indexer and base over till I can drill a hole in one of the 40 holes, this lines the two holes up. *Not really needed to be in line but sometime down the road it could help with another project.
> *
> This hole will be used for finding you six spokes and needs to be where ever the indexer needs it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to decide where we want the holed for the spokes to be and clamp down the base, and put the metal pin in our first of the six indexing holes.
> 
> *Be sure to clamp the base to the table before you start drilling.*
> 
> Place your blank over the 1/4" dowel and drill a 3/8" hole for your first hole, it doesn't matter where it is on the blank.
> 
> I'm using a 3/8 drill bit for my spoke holes, you'll see why later.
> 
> Place a 3/8" dowel in the first hole through the blank and into the indexer, this will keep everything lined up as you drill the next five holes using the index holes we marked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we add some shape to the hole drilled with a router bit.
> 
> Figure out how deep you want you shape and lock the drill press .
> 
> I use a 3/8" bearing on the router bit so it goes in our pre drilled 3/8" holes and guides the bit.
> 
> [I guess you really don't need to use a router bit with a bearing now that we have the indexer but old habits die hard. LOL]
> 
> I put the dowel back in to help hold the blank and then with the indexing pin removed route a hole and spin the indexer to the next hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the band saw and cut out the hub.
> It doesn't have to be round cause we're going to sand it to round.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the disk sander jig and make the hub fit the tyre inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some sanding and.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now hows that for a mag wheel?


That is just fantastic!

Bret


----------



## bushmaster

htl said:


> *Mag Wheel Making Jig*
> 
> After seeing Bushmasters jig making it got me wanting to rethink my mag wheel making jig
> and this is what I came up with, and I must say it's much faster and safer to boot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using and indexer makes this job so much easier and really a no brainier from now on, just make up your mind how many spokes you want and jig it up.
> For even # holes at least. LOL
> 
> First I made up some hole blanks, don't cut them all the way through just enough to have a center hole and the out line for the wheels.
> I could have drawn them out but this is faster for me.
> I also didn't drill the center holes all the way through for this project.
> Doing it this way there's no worry's about them getting out of round ,which I would tend to do if I did this by hand. [Getting in a hurry]
> 
> That's what I love about this jig, before I had to mark where the center hole would be and then for the spokes and the marks I made were not perfect, now mark them with the hole saw place on the jig and everything is just right.
> 
> *Oo! *and one more tip always make one extra of your parts [wheel hub in this case] so if and when you want to make some more you just place the part on the jig and use it to set the jig up for the new parts no measuring needed.
> 
> *When mass producing something, anything you can do to have less steps or make simpler the better.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my indexer for 40 holes but I only need six and you can see where I put marks on the plywood for the holes I need.
> I have a plywood base butted up to the fence , I drilled a 1/4" hole, some where near the center and add a 1/4" dowel, you can see it coming up throw the indexer.
> Next I slide the indexer and base over till I can drill a hole in one of the 40 holes, this lines the two holes up. *Not really needed to be in line but sometime down the road it could help with another project.
> *
> This hole will be used for finding you six spokes and needs to be where ever the indexer needs it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to decide where we want the holed for the spokes to be and clamp down the base, and put the metal pin in our first of the six indexing holes.
> 
> *Be sure to clamp the base to the table before you start drilling.*
> 
> Place your blank over the 1/4" dowel and drill a 3/8" hole for your first hole, it doesn't matter where it is on the blank.
> 
> I'm using a 3/8 drill bit for my spoke holes, you'll see why later.
> 
> Place a 3/8" dowel in the first hole through the blank and into the indexer, this will keep everything lined up as you drill the next five holes using the index holes we marked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we add some shape to the hole drilled with a router bit.
> 
> Figure out how deep you want you shape and lock the drill press .
> 
> I use a 3/8" bearing on the router bit so it goes in our pre drilled 3/8" holes and guides the bit.
> 
> [I guess you really don't need to use a router bit with a bearing now that we have the indexer but old habits die hard. LOL]
> 
> I put the dowel back in to help hold the blank and then with the indexing pin removed route a hole and spin the indexer to the next hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the band saw and cut out the hub.
> It doesn't have to be round cause we're going to sand it to round.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the disk sander jig and make the hub fit the tyre inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some sanding and.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now hows that for a mag wheel?


Your jig is great, the larger base flat on the board is a great idea, after I posted mine on Utube I saw one built like that, he used a ball with a spring in the base board, to hold it at the indent spot. The larger size like you built is certainly superior for doing allot of jobs. 40 holes on the small plates that I made would be a bit much. How you machined the mag type centers for your wheels is incredible. Love and am amazed at the work you do on the models. I still am planning on building a jig to use my indexing plates to cut those small grooves on the bandsaw. Thanks for looking at my projects and all the kind comments you make.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Mag Wheel Making Jig*
> 
> After seeing Bushmasters jig making it got me wanting to rethink my mag wheel making jig
> and this is what I came up with, and I must say it's much faster and safer to boot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using and indexer makes this job so much easier and really a no brainier from now on, just make up your mind how many spokes you want and jig it up.
> For even # holes at least. LOL
> 
> First I made up some hole blanks, don't cut them all the way through just enough to have a center hole and the out line for the wheels.
> I could have drawn them out but this is faster for me.
> I also didn't drill the center holes all the way through for this project.
> Doing it this way there's no worry's about them getting out of round ,which I would tend to do if I did this by hand. [Getting in a hurry]
> 
> That's what I love about this jig, before I had to mark where the center hole would be and then for the spokes and the marks I made were not perfect, now mark them with the hole saw place on the jig and everything is just right.
> 
> *Oo! *and one more tip always make one extra of your parts [wheel hub in this case] so if and when you want to make some more you just place the part on the jig and use it to set the jig up for the new parts no measuring needed.
> 
> *When mass producing something, anything you can do to have less steps or make simpler the better.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my indexer for 40 holes but I only need six and you can see where I put marks on the plywood for the holes I need.
> I have a plywood base butted up to the fence , I drilled a 1/4" hole, some where near the center and add a 1/4" dowel, you can see it coming up throw the indexer.
> Next I slide the indexer and base over till I can drill a hole in one of the 40 holes, this lines the two holes up. *Not really needed to be in line but sometime down the road it could help with another project.
> *
> This hole will be used for finding you six spokes and needs to be where ever the indexer needs it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to decide where we want the holed for the spokes to be and clamp down the base, and put the metal pin in our first of the six indexing holes.
> 
> *Be sure to clamp the base to the table before you start drilling.*
> 
> Place your blank over the 1/4" dowel and drill a 3/8" hole for your first hole, it doesn't matter where it is on the blank.
> 
> I'm using a 3/8 drill bit for my spoke holes, you'll see why later.
> 
> Place a 3/8" dowel in the first hole through the blank and into the indexer, this will keep everything lined up as you drill the next five holes using the index holes we marked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we add some shape to the hole drilled with a router bit.
> 
> Figure out how deep you want you shape and lock the drill press .
> 
> I use a 3/8" bearing on the router bit so it goes in our pre drilled 3/8" holes and guides the bit.
> 
> [I guess you really don't need to use a router bit with a bearing now that we have the indexer but old habits die hard. LOL]
> 
> I put the dowel back in to help hold the blank and then with the indexing pin removed route a hole and spin the indexer to the next hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the band saw and cut out the hub.
> It doesn't have to be round cause we're going to sand it to round.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the disk sander jig and make the hub fit the tyre inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some sanding and.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now hows that for a mag wheel?


Always looking for a new slant on an old idea to make our work easier.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Mag Wheel Making Jig*
> 
> After seeing Bushmasters jig making it got me wanting to rethink my mag wheel making jig
> and this is what I came up with, and I must say it's much faster and safer to boot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using and indexer makes this job so much easier and really a no brainier from now on, just make up your mind how many spokes you want and jig it up.
> For even # holes at least. LOL
> 
> First I made up some hole blanks, don't cut them all the way through just enough to have a center hole and the out line for the wheels.
> I could have drawn them out but this is faster for me.
> I also didn't drill the center holes all the way through for this project.
> Doing it this way there's no worry's about them getting out of round ,which I would tend to do if I did this by hand. [Getting in a hurry]
> 
> That's what I love about this jig, before I had to mark where the center hole would be and then for the spokes and the marks I made were not perfect, now mark them with the hole saw place on the jig and everything is just right.
> 
> *Oo! *and one more tip always make one extra of your parts [wheel hub in this case] so if and when you want to make some more you just place the part on the jig and use it to set the jig up for the new parts no measuring needed.
> 
> *When mass producing something, anything you can do to have less steps or make simpler the better.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my indexer for 40 holes but I only need six and you can see where I put marks on the plywood for the holes I need.
> I have a plywood base butted up to the fence , I drilled a 1/4" hole, some where near the center and add a 1/4" dowel, you can see it coming up throw the indexer.
> Next I slide the indexer and base over till I can drill a hole in one of the 40 holes, this lines the two holes up. *Not really needed to be in line but sometime down the road it could help with another project.
> *
> This hole will be used for finding you six spokes and needs to be where ever the indexer needs it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we need to decide where we want the holed for the spokes to be and clamp down the base, and put the metal pin in our first of the six indexing holes.
> 
> *Be sure to clamp the base to the table before you start drilling.*
> 
> Place your blank over the 1/4" dowel and drill a 3/8" hole for your first hole, it doesn't matter where it is on the blank.
> 
> I'm using a 3/8 drill bit for my spoke holes, you'll see why later.
> 
> Place a 3/8" dowel in the first hole through the blank and into the indexer, this will keep everything lined up as you drill the next five holes using the index holes we marked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we add some shape to the hole drilled with a router bit.
> 
> Figure out how deep you want you shape and lock the drill press .
> 
> I use a 3/8" bearing on the router bit so it goes in our pre drilled 3/8" holes and guides the bit.
> 
> [I guess you really don't need to use a router bit with a bearing now that we have the indexer but old habits die hard. LOL]
> 
> I put the dowel back in to help hold the blank and then with the indexing pin removed route a hole and spin the indexer to the next hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the band saw and cut out the hub.
> It doesn't have to be round cause we're going to sand it to round.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now over to the disk sander jig and make the hub fit the tyre inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some sanding and.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now hows that for a mag wheel?





> i never thougth bout put router bit into DP great idea :<))
> 
> - GR8HUNTER


GR8 this is like using a pin router and has some great uses when mass producing parts but a pin router works with a router and works much better as the speed makes for much smoother cuts.


----------



## htl

*Tires for the Coupe*

Now that I've figured out the hubs, I'm going for some street tires for the coupe.

Before I can go much farther with the coupes frame and suspension, I needed to build the tires so I'm know how big they well turn out to be. [The fronts will be smaller but just as wide.]
I usually start out with a size in mind but buy the time I get them made and sanded they can be a whole different beast.
I made up a whole bunch a plain and angled treads so I could try for a different look.
I had really liked the 5 part tyre I made last time so will be looking into more of that.
Here's a couple different looks.

This one looks way to busy to me, but would probable look pretty cool once done.
Notice that all the spaces are matched up.
Would probable look good on a Indy car.

















Here the spaces are staggered.










Here's the one I'm going with both types of spacing.









Here's the tires matched up and ready to glue up.









All glued up and ready for shaping and sand sand sand.









Came up with a way to make thinner tread spacing.
Feels a lot safer too.


















Not all the tyres make it to the finish unharmed.
And do you see that roll a test treads, I tried a few different things before it all came together.

















But all and all I think I can live with 4 of the 10 tires that made it through.


















Still going to take some work to get them usable.

Then back to the frame.

I should add the smaller these tyres get the harder time I'm having coming up with usable tyres.
As with all thing in wooden model building bigger is better.
The last tyres were made of poplar and these are maple and I thought the maple would work better but this time the poplar wins for a better looking tire but there again they are just a tad bigger.


----------



## Redoak49

htl said:


> *Tires for the Coupe*
> 
> Now that I've figured out the hubs, I'm going for some street tires for the coupe.
> 
> Before I can go much farther with the coupes frame and suspension, I needed to build the tires so I'm know how big they well turn out to be. [The fronts will be smaller but just as wide.]
> I usually start out with a size in mind but buy the time I get them made and sanded they can be a whole different beast.
> I made up a whole bunch a plain and angled treads so I could try for a different look.
> I had really liked the 5 part tyre I made last time so will be looking into more of that.
> Here's a couple different looks.
> 
> This one looks way to busy to me, but would probable look pretty cool once done.
> Notice that all the spaces are matched up.
> Would probable look good on a Indy car.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the spaces are staggered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the one I'm going with both types of spacing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the tires matched up and ready to glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All glued up and ready for shaping and sand sand sand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Came up with a way to make thinner tread spacing.
> Feels a lot safer too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not all the tyres make it to the finish unharmed.
> And do you see that roll a test treads, I tried a few different things before it all came together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But all and all I think I can live with 4 of the 10 tires that made it through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still going to take some work to get them usable.
> 
> Then back to the frame.
> 
> I should add the smaller these tyres get the harder time I'm having coming up with usable tyres.
> As with all thing in wooden model building bigger is better.
> The last tyres were made of poplar and these are maple and I thought the maple would work better but this time the poplar wins for a better looking tire but there again they are just a tad bigger.


Just great seeing how you make these and the tool setups…thanks


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Tires for the Coupe*
> 
> Now that I've figured out the hubs, I'm going for some street tires for the coupe.
> 
> Before I can go much farther with the coupes frame and suspension, I needed to build the tires so I'm know how big they well turn out to be. [The fronts will be smaller but just as wide.]
> I usually start out with a size in mind but buy the time I get them made and sanded they can be a whole different beast.
> I made up a whole bunch a plain and angled treads so I could try for a different look.
> I had really liked the 5 part tyre I made last time so will be looking into more of that.
> Here's a couple different looks.
> 
> This one looks way to busy to me, but would probable look pretty cool once done.
> Notice that all the spaces are matched up.
> Would probable look good on a Indy car.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the spaces are staggered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the one I'm going with both types of spacing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the tires matched up and ready to glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All glued up and ready for shaping and sand sand sand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Came up with a way to make thinner tread spacing.
> Feels a lot safer too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not all the tyres make it to the finish unharmed.
> And do you see that roll a test treads, I tried a few different things before it all came together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But all and all I think I can live with 4 of the 10 tires that made it through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still going to take some work to get them usable.
> 
> Then back to the frame.
> 
> I should add the smaller these tyres get the harder time I'm having coming up with usable tyres.
> As with all thing in wooden model building bigger is better.
> The last tyres were made of poplar and these are maple and I thought the maple would work better but this time the poplar wins for a better looking tire but there again they are just a tad bigger.


What timber are you using for the tyres Bruce, to get that sort of destruction? Cheers, Peter


----------



## bushmaster

htl said:


> *Tires for the Coupe*
> 
> Now that I've figured out the hubs, I'm going for some street tires for the coupe.
> 
> Before I can go much farther with the coupes frame and suspension, I needed to build the tires so I'm know how big they well turn out to be. [The fronts will be smaller but just as wide.]
> I usually start out with a size in mind but buy the time I get them made and sanded they can be a whole different beast.
> I made up a whole bunch a plain and angled treads so I could try for a different look.
> I had really liked the 5 part tyre I made last time so will be looking into more of that.
> Here's a couple different looks.
> 
> This one looks way to busy to me, but would probable look pretty cool once done.
> Notice that all the spaces are matched up.
> Would probable look good on a Indy car.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the spaces are staggered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the one I'm going with both types of spacing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the tires matched up and ready to glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All glued up and ready for shaping and sand sand sand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Came up with a way to make thinner tread spacing.
> Feels a lot safer too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not all the tyres make it to the finish unharmed.
> And do you see that roll a test treads, I tried a few different things before it all came together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But all and all I think I can live with 4 of the 10 tires that made it through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still going to take some work to get them usable.
> 
> Then back to the frame.
> 
> I should add the smaller these tyres get the harder time I'm having coming up with usable tyres.
> As with all thing in wooden model building bigger is better.
> The last tyres were made of poplar and these are maple and I thought the maple would work better but this time the poplar wins for a better looking tire but there again they are just a tad bigger.


nice tires, that is sure allot of work with so many thin pieces, The tread cutting jig makes it all possible, with out going cross eyed looking at a paper pattern.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Tires for the Coupe*
> 
> Now that I've figured out the hubs, I'm going for some street tires for the coupe.
> 
> Before I can go much farther with the coupes frame and suspension, I needed to build the tires so I'm know how big they well turn out to be. [The fronts will be smaller but just as wide.]
> I usually start out with a size in mind but buy the time I get them made and sanded they can be a whole different beast.
> I made up a whole bunch a plain and angled treads so I could try for a different look.
> I had really liked the 5 part tyre I made last time so will be looking into more of that.
> Here's a couple different looks.
> 
> This one looks way to busy to me, but would probable look pretty cool once done.
> Notice that all the spaces are matched up.
> Would probable look good on a Indy car.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the spaces are staggered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the one I'm going with both types of spacing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the tires matched up and ready to glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All glued up and ready for shaping and sand sand sand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Came up with a way to make thinner tread spacing.
> Feels a lot safer too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not all the tyres make it to the finish unharmed.
> And do you see that roll a test treads, I tried a few different things before it all came together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But all and all I think I can live with 4 of the 10 tires that made it through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still going to take some work to get them usable.
> 
> Then back to the frame.
> 
> I should add the smaller these tyres get the harder time I'm having coming up with usable tyres.
> As with all thing in wooden model building bigger is better.
> The last tyres were made of poplar and these are maple and I thought the maple would work better but this time the poplar wins for a better looking tire but there again they are just a tad bigger.


Crowie I used maple for these tires I would have thought it would have been better than poplar but my last tires turned out way nicer but then again they are a little bigger so there's more wood to help hold it together.
Making small tires like these I may need to stop using 36 treads per tire and go to maybe 24 that way the treads would be a little stronger.
If I remember right the tires that broke are only 2 1/4" so a pretty small tire.
It was in the routing and sanding there I started having problems..
One other thought it maybe time for a new router bit.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Tires for the Coupe*
> 
> Now that I've figured out the hubs, I'm going for some street tires for the coupe.
> 
> Before I can go much farther with the coupes frame and suspension, I needed to build the tires so I'm know how big they well turn out to be. [The fronts will be smaller but just as wide.]
> I usually start out with a size in mind but buy the time I get them made and sanded they can be a whole different beast.
> I made up a whole bunch a plain and angled treads so I could try for a different look.
> I had really liked the 5 part tyre I made last time so will be looking into more of that.
> Here's a couple different looks.
> 
> This one looks way to busy to me, but would probable look pretty cool once done.
> Notice that all the spaces are matched up.
> Would probable look good on a Indy car.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the spaces are staggered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the one I'm going with both types of spacing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the tires matched up and ready to glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All glued up and ready for shaping and sand sand sand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Came up with a way to make thinner tread spacing.
> Feels a lot safer too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not all the tyres make it to the finish unharmed.
> And do you see that roll a test treads, I tried a few different things before it all came together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But all and all I think I can live with 4 of the 10 tires that made it through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still going to take some work to get them usable.
> 
> Then back to the frame.
> 
> I should add the smaller these tyres get the harder time I'm having coming up with usable tyres.
> As with all thing in wooden model building bigger is better.
> The last tyres were made of poplar and these are maple and I thought the maple would work better but this time the poplar wins for a better looking tire but there again they are just a tad bigger.


Although in the end there are only 4 pieces usable, they are very nice and above average in terms of execution. If you are able to get hornbeam I'm sure more tyres (tires) would have succeeded.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Tires for the Coupe*
> 
> Now that I've figured out the hubs, I'm going for some street tires for the coupe.
> 
> Before I can go much farther with the coupes frame and suspension, I needed to build the tires so I'm know how big they well turn out to be. [The fronts will be smaller but just as wide.]
> I usually start out with a size in mind but buy the time I get them made and sanded they can be a whole different beast.
> I made up a whole bunch a plain and angled treads so I could try for a different look.
> I had really liked the 5 part tyre I made last time so will be looking into more of that.
> Here's a couple different looks.
> 
> This one looks way to busy to me, but would probable look pretty cool once done.
> Notice that all the spaces are matched up.
> Would probable look good on a Indy car.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the spaces are staggered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the one I'm going with both types of spacing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the tires matched up and ready to glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All glued up and ready for shaping and sand sand sand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Came up with a way to make thinner tread spacing.
> Feels a lot safer too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not all the tyres make it to the finish unharmed.
> And do you see that roll a test treads, I tried a few different things before it all came together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But all and all I think I can live with 4 of the 10 tires that made it through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still going to take some work to get them usable.
> 
> Then back to the frame.
> 
> I should add the smaller these tyres get the harder time I'm having coming up with usable tyres.
> As with all thing in wooden model building bigger is better.
> The last tyres were made of poplar and these are maple and I thought the maple would work better but this time the poplar wins for a better looking tire but there again they are just a tad bigger.





> Crowie I used maple for these tires I would have thought it would have been better than poplar but my last tires turned out way nicer but then again they are a little bigger so there s more wood to help hold it together.
> Making small tires like these I may need to stop using 36 treads per tire and go to maybe 24 that way the treads would be a little stronger.
> If I remember right the tires that broke are only 2 1/4" so a pretty small tire.
> It was in the routing and sanding there I started having problems..
> One other thought it maybe time for a new router bit.
> 
> - htl


Bruce, For the few grooved tyres I've made [no where as fancy as yours] I've used Aussie Hardwoods as I've found the softer timbers do tear and splinter badly; so the thought or recommendation to the teacher/master is: do you have some hard or harder timbers available for the wheels come tyres?? Cheers, Peter


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Tires for the Coupe*
> 
> Now that I've figured out the hubs, I'm going for some street tires for the coupe.
> 
> Before I can go much farther with the coupes frame and suspension, I needed to build the tires so I'm know how big they well turn out to be. [The fronts will be smaller but just as wide.]
> I usually start out with a size in mind but buy the time I get them made and sanded they can be a whole different beast.
> I made up a whole bunch a plain and angled treads so I could try for a different look.
> I had really liked the 5 part tyre I made last time so will be looking into more of that.
> Here's a couple different looks.
> 
> This one looks way to busy to me, but would probable look pretty cool once done.
> Notice that all the spaces are matched up.
> Would probable look good on a Indy car.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the spaces are staggered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the one I'm going with both types of spacing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the tires matched up and ready to glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All glued up and ready for shaping and sand sand sand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Came up with a way to make thinner tread spacing.
> Feels a lot safer too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not all the tyres make it to the finish unharmed.
> And do you see that roll a test treads, I tried a few different things before it all came together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But all and all I think I can live with 4 of the 10 tires that made it through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still going to take some work to get them usable.
> 
> Then back to the frame.
> 
> I should add the smaller these tyres get the harder time I'm having coming up with usable tyres.
> As with all thing in wooden model building bigger is better.
> The last tyres were made of poplar and these are maple and I thought the maple would work better but this time the poplar wins for a better looking tire but there again they are just a tad bigger.


There's always going to be problems so was just trying to let it be known that not all projects run smoothly all the time.
That's one reason I always make more parts than needed especially when they're this complicated.
There are going to be pieces a wood that just want to be firewood so I'll let them go there. LOL

I should add that four tires turned out fine and four are usable but could be better, and I got to thinking about it and the one that's really broke could be fixed by sanding off the outside treads and gluing on new ones, but not worth the trouble unless I need it down the road..

***One other thing hit me on the *last set I used a wider tread on the outsides, so would be much stronger to withstand the router and sanding.* and can now see that I need to go back to that practice.

This is one of the benefits to writing a blog, it gets me thinking about the project and figuring out what works and doesn't, plus once I write it down I can quit thinking about it as other wise it just keeps coming back, is that a sign of obsession??? LOL


----------



## hunter71

htl said:


> *Tires for the Coupe*
> 
> Now that I've figured out the hubs, I'm going for some street tires for the coupe.
> 
> Before I can go much farther with the coupes frame and suspension, I needed to build the tires so I'm know how big they well turn out to be. [The fronts will be smaller but just as wide.]
> I usually start out with a size in mind but buy the time I get them made and sanded they can be a whole different beast.
> I made up a whole bunch a plain and angled treads so I could try for a different look.
> I had really liked the 5 part tyre I made last time so will be looking into more of that.
> Here's a couple different looks.
> 
> This one looks way to busy to me, but would probable look pretty cool once done.
> Notice that all the spaces are matched up.
> Would probable look good on a Indy car.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the spaces are staggered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the one I'm going with both types of spacing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the tires matched up and ready to glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All glued up and ready for shaping and sand sand sand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Came up with a way to make thinner tread spacing.
> Feels a lot safer too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not all the tyres make it to the finish unharmed.
> And do you see that roll a test treads, I tried a few different things before it all came together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But all and all I think I can live with 4 of the 10 tires that made it through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still going to take some work to get them usable.
> 
> Then back to the frame.
> 
> I should add the smaller these tyres get the harder time I'm having coming up with usable tyres.
> As with all thing in wooden model building bigger is better.
> The last tyres were made of poplar and these are maple and I thought the maple would work better but this time the poplar wins for a better looking tire but there again they are just a tad bigger.


Great looking tires and wheels man.


----------



## Redoak49

htl said:


> *Tires for the Coupe*
> 
> Now that I've figured out the hubs, I'm going for some street tires for the coupe.
> 
> Before I can go much farther with the coupes frame and suspension, I needed to build the tires so I'm know how big they well turn out to be. [The fronts will be smaller but just as wide.]
> I usually start out with a size in mind but buy the time I get them made and sanded they can be a whole different beast.
> I made up a whole bunch a plain and angled treads so I could try for a different look.
> I had really liked the 5 part tyre I made last time so will be looking into more of that.
> Here's a couple different looks.
> 
> This one looks way to busy to me, but would probable look pretty cool once done.
> Notice that all the spaces are matched up.
> Would probable look good on a Indy car.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the spaces are staggered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the one I'm going with both types of spacing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the tires matched up and ready to glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All glued up and ready for shaping and sand sand sand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Came up with a way to make thinner tread spacing.
> Feels a lot safer too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not all the tyres make it to the finish unharmed.
> And do you see that roll a test treads, I tried a few different things before it all came together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But all and all I think I can live with 4 of the 10 tires that made it through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still going to take some work to get them usable.
> 
> Then back to the frame.
> 
> I should add the smaller these tyres get the harder time I'm having coming up with usable tyres.
> As with all thing in wooden model building bigger is better.
> The last tyres were made of poplar and these are maple and I thought the maple would work better but this time the poplar wins for a better looking tire but there again they are just a tad bigger.


The posts like these are like a giant dust collector…...they are sucking me in. I am getting close to try my hand at making the wheels…..soooo close. It it is the next project on my list.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Tires for the Coupe*
> 
> Now that I've figured out the hubs, I'm going for some street tires for the coupe.
> 
> Before I can go much farther with the coupes frame and suspension, I needed to build the tires so I'm know how big they well turn out to be. [The fronts will be smaller but just as wide.]
> I usually start out with a size in mind but buy the time I get them made and sanded they can be a whole different beast.
> I made up a whole bunch a plain and angled treads so I could try for a different look.
> I had really liked the 5 part tyre I made last time so will be looking into more of that.
> Here's a couple different looks.
> 
> This one looks way to busy to me, but would probable look pretty cool once done.
> Notice that all the spaces are matched up.
> Would probable look good on a Indy car.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the spaces are staggered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the one I'm going with both types of spacing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the tires matched up and ready to glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All glued up and ready for shaping and sand sand sand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Came up with a way to make thinner tread spacing.
> Feels a lot safer too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not all the tyres make it to the finish unharmed.
> And do you see that roll a test treads, I tried a few different things before it all came together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But all and all I think I can live with 4 of the 10 tires that made it through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still going to take some work to get them usable.
> 
> Then back to the frame.
> 
> I should add the smaller these tyres get the harder time I'm having coming up with usable tyres.
> As with all thing in wooden model building bigger is better.
> The last tyres were made of poplar and these are maple and I thought the maple would work better but this time the poplar wins for a better looking tire but there again they are just a tad bigger.


Sorry Redoak49, my wife told me I had left the cyclone running and turned it off so maybe just maybe no one else will get sucked in but please many pictures of the adventure. LOL


----------



## woodshaver

htl said:


> *Tires for the Coupe*
> 
> Now that I've figured out the hubs, I'm going for some street tires for the coupe.
> 
> Before I can go much farther with the coupes frame and suspension, I needed to build the tires so I'm know how big they well turn out to be. [The fronts will be smaller but just as wide.]
> I usually start out with a size in mind but buy the time I get them made and sanded they can be a whole different beast.
> I made up a whole bunch a plain and angled treads so I could try for a different look.
> I had really liked the 5 part tyre I made last time so will be looking into more of that.
> Here's a couple different looks.
> 
> This one looks way to busy to me, but would probable look pretty cool once done.
> Notice that all the spaces are matched up.
> Would probable look good on a Indy car.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the spaces are staggered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the one I'm going with both types of spacing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the tires matched up and ready to glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All glued up and ready for shaping and sand sand sand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Came up with a way to make thinner tread spacing.
> Feels a lot safer too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not all the tyres make it to the finish unharmed.
> And do you see that roll a test treads, I tried a few different things before it all came together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But all and all I think I can live with 4 of the 10 tires that made it through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still going to take some work to get them usable.
> 
> Then back to the frame.
> 
> I should add the smaller these tyres get the harder time I'm having coming up with usable tyres.
> As with all thing in wooden model building bigger is better.
> The last tyres were made of poplar and these are maple and I thought the maple would work better but this time the poplar wins for a better looking tire but there again they are just a tad bigger.


Man on a mission! I've never built a model but this sure is interesting!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Tires for the Coupe*
> 
> Now that I've figured out the hubs, I'm going for some street tires for the coupe.
> 
> Before I can go much farther with the coupes frame and suspension, I needed to build the tires so I'm know how big they well turn out to be. [The fronts will be smaller but just as wide.]
> I usually start out with a size in mind but buy the time I get them made and sanded they can be a whole different beast.
> I made up a whole bunch a plain and angled treads so I could try for a different look.
> I had really liked the 5 part tyre I made last time so will be looking into more of that.
> Here's a couple different looks.
> 
> This one looks way to busy to me, but would probable look pretty cool once done.
> Notice that all the spaces are matched up.
> Would probable look good on a Indy car.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the spaces are staggered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the one I'm going with both types of spacing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the tires matched up and ready to glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All glued up and ready for shaping and sand sand sand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Came up with a way to make thinner tread spacing.
> Feels a lot safer too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not all the tyres make it to the finish unharmed.
> And do you see that roll a test treads, I tried a few different things before it all came together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But all and all I think I can live with 4 of the 10 tires that made it through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still going to take some work to get them usable.
> 
> Then back to the frame.
> 
> I should add the smaller these tyres get the harder time I'm having coming up with usable tyres.
> As with all thing in wooden model building bigger is better.
> The last tyres were made of poplar and these are maple and I thought the maple would work better but this time the poplar wins for a better looking tire but there again they are just a tad bigger.


Tony "Man on a mission! "

I think I need to stop and build a desk or turn something cause this is starting to look like an obsession, me thinks. LOL


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Tires for the Coupe*
> 
> Now that I've figured out the hubs, I'm going for some street tires for the coupe.
> 
> Before I can go much farther with the coupes frame and suspension, I needed to build the tires so I'm know how big they well turn out to be. [The fronts will be smaller but just as wide.]
> I usually start out with a size in mind but buy the time I get them made and sanded they can be a whole different beast.
> I made up a whole bunch a plain and angled treads so I could try for a different look.
> I had really liked the 5 part tyre I made last time so will be looking into more of that.
> Here's a couple different looks.
> 
> This one looks way to busy to me, but would probable look pretty cool once done.
> Notice that all the spaces are matched up.
> Would probable look good on a Indy car.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the spaces are staggered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the one I'm going with both types of spacing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the tires matched up and ready to glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All glued up and ready for shaping and sand sand sand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Came up with a way to make thinner tread spacing.
> Feels a lot safer too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not all the tyres make it to the finish unharmed.
> And do you see that roll a test treads, I tried a few different things before it all came together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But all and all I think I can live with 4 of the 10 tires that made it through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still going to take some work to get them usable.
> 
> Then back to the frame.
> 
> I should add the smaller these tyres get the harder time I'm having coming up with usable tyres.
> As with all thing in wooden model building bigger is better.
> The last tyres were made of poplar and these are maple and I thought the maple would work better but this time the poplar wins for a better looking tire but there again they are just a tad bigger.


Here's where I got the blade for the thin treads.
Harbor Freight
I bought these way back and they sat in a drawer for ??? but then I got looking for a thinner blade and here they were just sitting waiting for something to do. ;-}
I took my time with these and they worked just fine.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Tires for the Coupe*
> 
> Now that I've figured out the hubs, I'm going for some street tires for the coupe.
> 
> Before I can go much farther with the coupes frame and suspension, I needed to build the tires so I'm know how big they well turn out to be. [The fronts will be smaller but just as wide.]
> I usually start out with a size in mind but buy the time I get them made and sanded they can be a whole different beast.
> I made up a whole bunch a plain and angled treads so I could try for a different look.
> I had really liked the 5 part tyre I made last time so will be looking into more of that.
> Here's a couple different looks.
> 
> This one looks way to busy to me, but would probable look pretty cool once done.
> Notice that all the spaces are matched up.
> Would probable look good on a Indy car.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the spaces are staggered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the one I'm going with both types of spacing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the tires matched up and ready to glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All glued up and ready for shaping and sand sand sand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Came up with a way to make thinner tread spacing.
> Feels a lot safer too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not all the tyres make it to the finish unharmed.
> And do you see that roll a test treads, I tried a few different things before it all came together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But all and all I think I can live with 4 of the 10 tires that made it through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still going to take some work to get them usable.
> 
> Then back to the frame.
> 
> I should add the smaller these tyres get the harder time I'm having coming up with usable tyres.
> As with all thing in wooden model building bigger is better.
> The last tyres were made of poplar and these are maple and I thought the maple would work better but this time the poplar wins for a better looking tire but there again they are just a tad bigger.


Tony I just went and checked out all your projects and to me it looks like you've been in training for model building for years so get at it and build a model something. LOL
You didn't know I was an ambassador for the LJ's model building association did you?


----------



## woodshaver

htl said:


> *Tires for the Coupe*
> 
> Now that I've figured out the hubs, I'm going for some street tires for the coupe.
> 
> Before I can go much farther with the coupes frame and suspension, I needed to build the tires so I'm know how big they well turn out to be. [The fronts will be smaller but just as wide.]
> I usually start out with a size in mind but buy the time I get them made and sanded they can be a whole different beast.
> I made up a whole bunch a plain and angled treads so I could try for a different look.
> I had really liked the 5 part tyre I made last time so will be looking into more of that.
> Here's a couple different looks.
> 
> This one looks way to busy to me, but would probable look pretty cool once done.
> Notice that all the spaces are matched up.
> Would probable look good on a Indy car.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the spaces are staggered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the one I'm going with both types of spacing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the tires matched up and ready to glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All glued up and ready for shaping and sand sand sand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Came up with a way to make thinner tread spacing.
> Feels a lot safer too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not all the tyres make it to the finish unharmed.
> And do you see that roll a test treads, I tried a few different things before it all came together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But all and all I think I can live with 4 of the 10 tires that made it through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still going to take some work to get them usable.
> 
> Then back to the frame.
> 
> I should add the smaller these tyres get the harder time I'm having coming up with usable tyres.
> As with all thing in wooden model building bigger is better.
> The last tyres were made of poplar and these are maple and I thought the maple would work better but this time the poplar wins for a better looking tire but there again they are just a tad bigger.


LOL! What project did it make that gives you that impression htl? I just may try to build a model someday but for now I rather drool over your great work! What's funny is I have that saw set from HF in my dremel box. It's still new too! Anyway thanks for the confidence push!


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Tires for the Coupe*
> 
> Now that I've figured out the hubs, I'm going for some street tires for the coupe.
> 
> Before I can go much farther with the coupes frame and suspension, I needed to build the tires so I'm know how big they well turn out to be. [The fronts will be smaller but just as wide.]
> I usually start out with a size in mind but buy the time I get them made and sanded they can be a whole different beast.
> I made up a whole bunch a plain and angled treads so I could try for a different look.
> I had really liked the 5 part tyre I made last time so will be looking into more of that.
> Here's a couple different looks.
> 
> This one looks way to busy to me, but would probable look pretty cool once done.
> Notice that all the spaces are matched up.
> Would probable look good on a Indy car.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the spaces are staggered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the one I'm going with both types of spacing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the tires matched up and ready to glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All glued up and ready for shaping and sand sand sand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Came up with a way to make thinner tread spacing.
> Feels a lot safer too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not all the tyres make it to the finish unharmed.
> And do you see that roll a test treads, I tried a few different things before it all came together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But all and all I think I can live with 4 of the 10 tires that made it through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still going to take some work to get them usable.
> 
> Then back to the frame.
> 
> I should add the smaller these tyres get the harder time I'm having coming up with usable tyres.
> As with all thing in wooden model building bigger is better.
> The last tyres were made of poplar and these are maple and I thought the maple would work better but this time the poplar wins for a better looking tire but there again they are just a tad bigger.


would them blades work for door kerfs Bruce ? :<))


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Tires for the Coupe*
> 
> Now that I've figured out the hubs, I'm going for some street tires for the coupe.
> 
> Before I can go much farther with the coupes frame and suspension, I needed to build the tires so I'm know how big they well turn out to be. [The fronts will be smaller but just as wide.]
> I usually start out with a size in mind but buy the time I get them made and sanded they can be a whole different beast.
> I made up a whole bunch a plain and angled treads so I could try for a different look.
> I had really liked the 5 part tyre I made last time so will be looking into more of that.
> Here's a couple different looks.
> 
> This one looks way to busy to me, but would probable look pretty cool once done.
> Notice that all the spaces are matched up.
> Would probable look good on a Indy car.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the spaces are staggered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the one I'm going with both types of spacing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the tires matched up and ready to glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All glued up and ready for shaping and sand sand sand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Came up with a way to make thinner tread spacing.
> Feels a lot safer too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not all the tyres make it to the finish unharmed.
> And do you see that roll a test treads, I tried a few different things before it all came together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But all and all I think I can live with 4 of the 10 tires that made it through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still going to take some work to get them usable.
> 
> Then back to the frame.
> 
> I should add the smaller these tyres get the harder time I'm having coming up with usable tyres.
> As with all thing in wooden model building bigger is better.
> The last tyres were made of poplar and these are maple and I thought the maple would work better but this time the poplar wins for a better looking tire but there again they are just a tad bigger.


Would think it would be hard to turn a corner, but for straight cuts why not.
A router bit with a guide would be much easier to set up I would think.
Door kerfs has never been one of my strong points. ;=[


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Tires for the Coupe*
> 
> Now that I've figured out the hubs, I'm going for some street tires for the coupe.
> 
> Before I can go much farther with the coupes frame and suspension, I needed to build the tires so I'm know how big they well turn out to be. [The fronts will be smaller but just as wide.]
> I usually start out with a size in mind but buy the time I get them made and sanded they can be a whole different beast.
> I made up a whole bunch a plain and angled treads so I could try for a different look.
> I had really liked the 5 part tyre I made last time so will be looking into more of that.
> Here's a couple different looks.
> 
> This one looks way to busy to me, but would probable look pretty cool once done.
> Notice that all the spaces are matched up.
> Would probable look good on a Indy car.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the spaces are staggered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the one I'm going with both types of spacing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the tires matched up and ready to glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All glued up and ready for shaping and sand sand sand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Came up with a way to make thinner tread spacing.
> Feels a lot safer too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not all the tyres make it to the finish unharmed.
> And do you see that roll a test treads, I tried a few different things before it all came together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But all and all I think I can live with 4 of the 10 tires that made it through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still going to take some work to get them usable.
> 
> Then back to the frame.
> 
> I should add the smaller these tyres get the harder time I'm having coming up with usable tyres.
> As with all thing in wooden model building bigger is better.
> The last tyres were made of poplar and these are maple and I thought the maple would work better but this time the poplar wins for a better looking tire but there again they are just a tad bigger.





> Would think it would be hard to turn a corner, but for straight cuts why not.
> A router bit with a guide would be much easier to set up I would think.
> Door kerfs has never been one of my strong points. ;=[
> 
> - htl


In short I will make a blog about door kerfs. Interested?


----------



## fanciboy4

htl said:


> *Tires for the Coupe*
> 
> Now that I've figured out the hubs, I'm going for some street tires for the coupe.
> 
> Before I can go much farther with the coupes frame and suspension, I needed to build the tires so I'm know how big they well turn out to be. [The fronts will be smaller but just as wide.]
> I usually start out with a size in mind but buy the time I get them made and sanded they can be a whole different beast.
> I made up a whole bunch a plain and angled treads so I could try for a different look.
> I had really liked the 5 part tyre I made last time so will be looking into more of that.
> Here's a couple different looks.
> 
> This one looks way to busy to me, but would probable look pretty cool once done.
> Notice that all the spaces are matched up.
> Would probable look good on a Indy car.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the spaces are staggered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the one I'm going with both types of spacing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the tires matched up and ready to glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All glued up and ready for shaping and sand sand sand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Came up with a way to make thinner tread spacing.
> Feels a lot safer too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not all the tyres make it to the finish unharmed.
> And do you see that roll a test treads, I tried a few different things before it all came together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But all and all I think I can live with 4 of the 10 tires that made it through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still going to take some work to get them usable.
> 
> Then back to the frame.
> 
> I should add the smaller these tyres get the harder time I'm having coming up with usable tyres.
> As with all thing in wooden model building bigger is better.
> The last tyres were made of poplar and these are maple and I thought the maple would work better but this time the poplar wins for a better looking tire but there again they are just a tad bigger.


Please send us a shot when done. I tired caving timber for sculptures but ends up bring a mess.. U did a good work, I just will love to see the finished work.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Tires for the Coupe*
> 
> Now that I've figured out the hubs, I'm going for some street tires for the coupe.
> 
> Before I can go much farther with the coupes frame and suspension, I needed to build the tires so I'm know how big they well turn out to be. [The fronts will be smaller but just as wide.]
> I usually start out with a size in mind but buy the time I get them made and sanded they can be a whole different beast.
> I made up a whole bunch a plain and angled treads so I could try for a different look.
> I had really liked the 5 part tyre I made last time so will be looking into more of that.
> Here's a couple different looks.
> 
> This one looks way to busy to me, but would probable look pretty cool once done.
> Notice that all the spaces are matched up.
> Would probable look good on a Indy car.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the spaces are staggered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the one I'm going with both types of spacing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the tires matched up and ready to glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All glued up and ready for shaping and sand sand sand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Came up with a way to make thinner tread spacing.
> Feels a lot safer too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not all the tyres make it to the finish unharmed.
> And do you see that roll a test treads, I tried a few different things before it all came together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But all and all I think I can live with 4 of the 10 tires that made it through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still going to take some work to get them usable.
> 
> Then back to the frame.
> 
> I should add the smaller these tyres get the harder time I'm having coming up with usable tyres.
> As with all thing in wooden model building bigger is better.
> The last tyres were made of poplar and these are maple and I thought the maple would work better but this time the poplar wins for a better looking tire but there again they are just a tad bigger.


I never tyre to learn something new Dutchy.

I've seen where some make patterns to cut out the windows and such.
I can really see how this would speed thing up but foe one model thats a lot a work.


----------



## oldsawtooth

htl said:


> *Tires for the Coupe*
> 
> Now that I've figured out the hubs, I'm going for some street tires for the coupe.
> 
> Before I can go much farther with the coupes frame and suspension, I needed to build the tires so I'm know how big they well turn out to be. [The fronts will be smaller but just as wide.]
> I usually start out with a size in mind but buy the time I get them made and sanded they can be a whole different beast.
> I made up a whole bunch a plain and angled treads so I could try for a different look.
> I had really liked the 5 part tyre I made last time so will be looking into more of that.
> Here's a couple different looks.
> 
> This one looks way to busy to me, but would probable look pretty cool once done.
> Notice that all the spaces are matched up.
> Would probable look good on a Indy car.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the spaces are staggered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the one I'm going with both types of spacing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the tires matched up and ready to glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All glued up and ready for shaping and sand sand sand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Came up with a way to make thinner tread spacing.
> Feels a lot safer too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not all the tyres make it to the finish unharmed.
> And do you see that roll a test treads, I tried a few different things before it all came together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But all and all I think I can live with 4 of the 10 tires that made it through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still going to take some work to get them usable.
> 
> Then back to the frame.
> 
> I should add the smaller these tyres get the harder time I'm having coming up with usable tyres.
> As with all thing in wooden model building bigger is better.
> The last tyres were made of poplar and these are maple and I thought the maple would work better but this time the poplar wins for a better looking tire but there again they are just a tad bigger.


Brother that's a nice hot rod and the wheel making jig is neat too I build a few toys to


----------



## htl

*Played with making another indexer this one for 5 or 10 points.*

If you look at the Cragar mags they're a 5 spoke hub so wanted to build a 10 point indexer.

Here's what I'm working toward.
The mags on the left are the new ones.
Well the ones on the far right are too tried it with some lag nuts.









So here's the project.
I'm thinking of making a stop motion video that why all the pictures in steps.






























































































































I didn't go as deep with the shaping this time so there's hardly any clean up, plus using the1 1/2" store bought tires for hubs always seems to work much better.










I only use every other index mark but as you can see I had thought of adding lag nuts between the spokes and may still try it on something else but we now have more options for our tire building.




























If I could quit playing around with the tires I just might get this project done.


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Played with making another indexer this one for 5 or 10 points.*
> 
> If you look at the Cragar mags they're a 5 spoke hub so wanted to build a 10 point indexer.
> 
> Here's what I'm working toward.
> The mags on the left are the new ones.
> Well the ones on the far right are too tried it with some lag nuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's the project.
> I'm thinking of making a stop motion video that why all the pictures in steps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't go as deep with the shaping this time so there's hardly any clean up, plus using the1 1/2" store bought tires for hubs always seems to work much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I only use every other index mark but as you can see I had thought of adding lag nuts between the spokes and may still try it on something else but we now have more options for our tire building.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I could quit playing around with the tires I just might get this project done.


Neat dropped front axel, looks good.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Played with making another indexer this one for 5 or 10 points.*
> 
> If you look at the Cragar mags they're a 5 spoke hub so wanted to build a 10 point indexer.
> 
> Here's what I'm working toward.
> The mags on the left are the new ones.
> Well the ones on the far right are too tried it with some lag nuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's the project.
> I'm thinking of making a stop motion video that why all the pictures in steps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't go as deep with the shaping this time so there's hardly any clean up, plus using the1 1/2" store bought tires for hubs always seems to work much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I only use every other index mark but as you can see I had thought of adding lag nuts between the spokes and may still try it on something else but we now have more options for our tire building.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I could quit playing around with the tires I just might get this project done.


Bruce that last photo looks great…one mean looking hot rod sir….


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Played with making another indexer this one for 5 or 10 points.*
> 
> If you look at the Cragar mags they're a 5 spoke hub so wanted to build a 10 point indexer.
> 
> Here's what I'm working toward.
> The mags on the left are the new ones.
> Well the ones on the far right are too tried it with some lag nuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's the project.
> I'm thinking of making a stop motion video that why all the pictures in steps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't go as deep with the shaping this time so there's hardly any clean up, plus using the1 1/2" store bought tires for hubs always seems to work much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I only use every other index mark but as you can see I had thought of adding lag nuts between the spokes and may still try it on something else but we now have more options for our tire building.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I could quit playing around with the tires I just might get this project done.


I don't know why but the back tires look smaller than the front but you can see in the build their 1/2" bigger at least.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Played with making another indexer this one for 5 or 10 points.*
> 
> If you look at the Cragar mags they're a 5 spoke hub so wanted to build a 10 point indexer.
> 
> Here's what I'm working toward.
> The mags on the left are the new ones.
> Well the ones on the far right are too tried it with some lag nuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's the project.
> I'm thinking of making a stop motion video that why all the pictures in steps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't go as deep with the shaping this time so there's hardly any clean up, plus using the1 1/2" store bought tires for hubs always seems to work much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I only use every other index mark but as you can see I had thought of adding lag nuts between the spokes and may still try it on something else but we now have more options for our tire building.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I could quit playing around with the tires I just might get this project done.





> I don t know why but the back tires look smaller than the front but you can see in the build their 1/2" bigger at least.
> 
> - htl


Optical illusion Bruce, Need to take a few different photos from various angles…


----------



## robscastle

htl said:


> *Played with making another indexer this one for 5 or 10 points.*
> 
> If you look at the Cragar mags they're a 5 spoke hub so wanted to build a 10 point indexer.
> 
> Here's what I'm working toward.
> The mags on the left are the new ones.
> Well the ones on the far right are too tried it with some lag nuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's the project.
> I'm thinking of making a stop motion video that why all the pictures in steps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't go as deep with the shaping this time so there's hardly any clean up, plus using the1 1/2" store bought tires for hubs always seems to work much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I only use every other index mark but as you can see I had thought of adding lag nuts between the spokes and may still try it on something else but we now have more options for our tire building.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I could quit playing around with the tires I just might get this project done.


All very precise and neat work to produce a excellent result.
I have to agree the front axle does look good.

Dont be too concerned about the schedule if your enhjoying "playing around so be it!


----------



## bushmaster

htl said:


> *Played with making another indexer this one for 5 or 10 points.*
> 
> If you look at the Cragar mags they're a 5 spoke hub so wanted to build a 10 point indexer.
> 
> Here's what I'm working toward.
> The mags on the left are the new ones.
> Well the ones on the far right are too tried it with some lag nuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's the project.
> I'm thinking of making a stop motion video that why all the pictures in steps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't go as deep with the shaping this time so there's hardly any clean up, plus using the1 1/2" store bought tires for hubs always seems to work much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I only use every other index mark but as you can see I had thought of adding lag nuts between the spokes and may still try it on something else but we now have more options for our tire building.
> 
> 
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> 
> If I could quit playing around with the tires I just might get this project done.


Very interested in how you make the over the top wheels. Did you use that link on the tractor tires that I posted to make the paper pattern. it sure works slick to make any number of segments and diameters, then just print.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Played with making another indexer this one for 5 or 10 points.*
> 
> If you look at the Cragar mags they're a 5 spoke hub so wanted to build a 10 point indexer.
> 
> Here's what I'm working toward.
> The mags on the left are the new ones.
> Well the ones on the far right are too tried it with some lag nuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's the project.
> I'm thinking of making a stop motion video that why all the pictures in steps.
> 
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> 
> I didn't go as deep with the shaping this time so there's hardly any clean up, plus using the1 1/2" store bought tires for hubs always seems to work much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I only use every other index mark but as you can see I had thought of adding lag nuts between the spokes and may still try it on something else but we now have more options for our tire building.
> 
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> 
> If I could quit playing around with the tires I just might get this project done.


bushmaster I just did a search for 10 point drawing and this is one that was simple enough to work.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Played with making another indexer this one for 5 or 10 points.*
> 
> If you look at the Cragar mags they're a 5 spoke hub so wanted to build a 10 point indexer.
> 
> Here's what I'm working toward.
> The mags on the left are the new ones.
> Well the ones on the far right are too tried it with some lag nuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's the project.
> I'm thinking of making a stop motion video that why all the pictures in steps.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't go as deep with the shaping this time so there's hardly any clean up, plus using the1 1/2" store bought tires for hubs always seems to work much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I only use every other index mark but as you can see I had thought of adding lag nuts between the spokes and may still try it on something else but we now have more options for our tire building.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> If I could quit playing around with the tires I just might get this project done.


robscastle 
The main problem is I keep making these tire parts and then have the compulsion to make cars or what ever for them, BUT then I build another car and more wheel parts come to mind,

IT"S A NEVER ENDING PROBLEM!!! LOL

*I need to JUST SAY NO!!! * To more tire parts. :={ 
BUT! BUT!! Then another idea comes to mind. HELP LOL


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Played with making another indexer this one for 5 or 10 points.*
> 
> If you look at the Cragar mags they're a 5 spoke hub so wanted to build a 10 point indexer.
> 
> Here's what I'm working toward.
> The mags on the left are the new ones.
> Well the ones on the far right are too tried it with some lag nuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's the project.
> I'm thinking of making a stop motion video that why all the pictures in steps.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't go as deep with the shaping this time so there's hardly any clean up, plus using the1 1/2" store bought tires for hubs always seems to work much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I only use every other index mark but as you can see I had thought of adding lag nuts between the spokes and may still try it on something else but we now have more options for our tire building.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> If I could quit playing around with the tires I just might get this project done.


Not much I can say that hasn't been emphasised above *#4*.

The dropped axle looks great… If only I could drop items in my workshop by choice rather than scramble on all fours looking for that dodgy piece that just rolled under that immovable machinery.

Did you just write 36° on your jig or actually use a protractor? In the past, I wrote all sorts of angles on my jigs and they were never correct… It wasn't till later that I found that I could actually measure it with a SketchUp plugin and engrave it with my laser… I could have printed it, but here in Churchill, 3mm MDF is cheaper than A4 paper… and my inkjet was out of ink

It must be that SS that produces such fine and accurate work.
Hey brainwave… all you need to do is buy a dozen more SSs, have a dozen more kids and you could set up a sweatshop making tyres and rims for sale. You'll never have to think about making another car… let alone train tracks!

All *BS* aside *#4*... they look great and I'm sure you have inspired many toymakers into creating rolling works of art.
I won't call you Santa as that might regress your *#4* hierarchy…

*PS.* Have a Merry Christmas (and all you fellow readers)... and if you so choose… you can also have a Happy New Year (but lets leave that for the next year).


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Played with making another indexer this one for 5 or 10 points.*
> 
> If you look at the Cragar mags they're a 5 spoke hub so wanted to build a 10 point indexer.
> 
> Here's what I'm working toward.
> The mags on the left are the new ones.
> Well the ones on the far right are too tried it with some lag nuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's the project.
> I'm thinking of making a stop motion video that why all the pictures in steps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't go as deep with the shaping this time so there's hardly any clean up, plus using the1 1/2" store bought tires for hubs always seems to work much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I only use every other index mark but as you can see I had thought of adding lag nuts between the spokes and may still try it on something else but we now have more options for our tire building.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> If I could quit playing around with the tires I just might get this project done.


Ducky the 36 was on the picture when I printed it. lol!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## htl

*Back to the coupe*

Time for the headers and sand sand sand.
I know their super simple but I like them. lol
The body, bonnet and motor are all glued up so now I'm able to sand the sides and get it all smoothed out.
I can still remove the frame for some suspension work down the road.


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Back to the coupe*
> 
> Time for the headers and sand sand sand.
> I know their super simple but I like them. lol
> The body, bonnet and motor are all glued up so now I'm able to sand the sides and get it all smoothed out.
> I can still remove the frame for some suspension work down the road.


Getting about ready to rubble?


----------



## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Back to the coupe*
> 
> Time for the headers and sand sand sand.
> I know their super simple but I like them. lol
> The body, bonnet and motor are all glued up so now I'm able to sand the sides and get it all smoothed out.
> I can still remove the frame for some suspension work down the road.


AH. some of us love street rods!

Looking great!


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## woodshaver

htl said:


> *Back to the coupe*
> 
> Time for the headers and sand sand sand.
> I know their super simple but I like them. lol
> The body, bonnet and motor are all glued up so now I'm able to sand the sides and get it all smoothed out.
> I can still remove the frame for some suspension work down the road.


This is so Awesome looking htl! Love it! Rooooom Roooooom!


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Back to the coupe*
> 
> Time for the headers and sand sand sand.
> I know their super simple but I like them. lol
> The body, bonnet and motor are all glued up so now I'm able to sand the sides and get it all smoothed out.
> I can still remove the frame for some suspension work down the road.


Love the headers and exhaust Bruce…starting to look mean and a real hot rod…. 
With the different photo angles you can now see the back wheel/tyre is larger than the front..
Cheers, Peter


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Back to the coupe*
> 
> Time for the headers and sand sand sand.
> I know their super simple but I like them. lol
> The body, bonnet and motor are all glued up so now I'm able to sand the sides and get it all smoothed out.
> I can still remove the frame for some suspension work down the road.


now your talking to me i can almost here how load it is from here ….LMAO ….GREAT JOB Bruce :<))


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## htl

htl said:


> *Back to the coupe*
> 
> Time for the headers and sand sand sand.
> I know their super simple but I like them. lol
> The body, bonnet and motor are all glued up so now I'm able to sand the sides and get it all smoothed out.
> I can still remove the frame for some suspension work down the road.


GR#8 
It won't be as loud as your's but should sound pretty good. LOL


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Back to the coupe*
> 
> Time for the headers and sand sand sand.
> I know their super simple but I like them. lol
> The body, bonnet and motor are all glued up so now I'm able to sand the sides and get it all smoothed out.
> I can still remove the frame for some suspension work down the road.


You have to realize that smoke gets in your eyes.


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## robscastle

htl said:


> *Back to the coupe*
> 
> Time for the headers and sand sand sand.
> I know their super simple but I like them. lol
> The body, bonnet and motor are all glued up so now I'm able to sand the sides and get it all smoothed out.
> I can still remove the frame for some suspension work down the road.


OMG I can hear that cackle and smell the methanol from here, dont be burning the tyre now!,... and I just noticed there is no Dicky seat and wait for it …..the LBD mud flaps!!!!

An absolute masterpiece !

I took a second look and is that a scotch brite buffing pad in the background? which leads me to ask , do you have a KA Tools Geneive sanding system?


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## stefang

htl said:


> *Back to the coupe*
> 
> Time for the headers and sand sand sand.
> I know their super simple but I like them. lol
> The body, bonnet and motor are all glued up so now I'm able to sand the sides and get it all smoothed out.
> I can still remove the frame for some suspension work down the road.


Your model looks really well done. The engine looks great and I love the way you did the tires and wheels too. What brand is it? I did some hot rodding in my youth and I bought a 1934 Ford three window coupe for about $20 similar to the style of your model except for the grill. It was in perfect shape body-wise and even had the original paint on it. The engine was shot, but I had planned to replace with an Olds or Chrysler engine anyway. Unfortunately I didn't have any money to do anything with it and I eventually wound up with a 1940 ford coupe which I liked a lot, but I always regretted the missed opportunity with the '34.


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## bushmaster

htl said:


> *Back to the coupe*
> 
> Time for the headers and sand sand sand.
> I know their super simple but I like them. lol
> The body, bonnet and motor are all glued up so now I'm able to sand the sides and get it all smoothed out.
> I can still remove the frame for some suspension work down the road.


Always enjoy your building pictures, Merry Christmas


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Back to the coupe*
> 
> Time for the headers and sand sand sand.
> I know their super simple but I like them. lol
> The body, bonnet and motor are all glued up so now I'm able to sand the sides and get it all smoothed out.
> I can still remove the frame for some suspension work down the road.


Stefang 
MY dad used to tell story's of when he was a teenager in the 1930's and they would buy a junker at the junk yard and could use parts from other cars in the yard to get theirs going.
This was around Chicago Illinois so they would leave the tops on but then when summer came they would cut the tops off for the cool factor.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Back to the coupe*
> 
> Time for the headers and sand sand sand.
> I know their super simple but I like them. lol
> The body, bonnet and motor are all glued up so now I'm able to sand the sides and get it all smoothed out.
> I can still remove the frame for some suspension work down the road.





> I took a second look and is that a* scotch brite buffing pad* in the background? which leads me to ask , do you have a *KA Tools Geneive sanding system?*
> 
> - robscastle


No big $$$ here just a buffing pad you can get at Harbor Freight for less than $10.
https://www.harborfreight.com/4-in-80-grit-abrasive-ball-61182.html

Sorry one of them cheap us things but if you saw how they are made it would be easy and well worth the trouble for the nice buff it can give to small parts.


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## robscastle

htl said:


> *Back to the coupe*
> 
> Time for the headers and sand sand sand.
> I know their super simple but I like them. lol
> The body, bonnet and motor are all glued up so now I'm able to sand the sides and get it all smoothed out.
> I can still remove the frame for some suspension work down the road.


I have some as a belt on my linisher ! great stuff


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## htl

htl said:


> *Back to the coupe*
> 
> Time for the headers and sand sand sand.
> I know their super simple but I like them. lol
> The body, bonnet and motor are all glued up so now I'm able to sand the sides and get it all smoothed out.
> I can still remove the frame for some suspension work down the road.


Now that there would work great, 
Thanks! rob


----------



## htl

*Just about done with the coupe*

It's time to start something else I wonder what that is?
So here's my last build blog for the coupe and the year, but wait it just hit me we still have another week. LOL

Here's the Project finished.

We need some brake lights. Done!









Mufflers and wheels. Done
It also has head lights but can't be seen till the last picture. Done



















I wonder where that motors going?










I haven't showed this yet, it has suspension in the back.




































Then off to the paint shop.
You can also see in this picture what limits the rear wheels, up and down and front to back.
The drive shaft moves with it and keeps every thing in line.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Just about done with the coupe*
> 
> It's time to start something else I wonder what that is?
> So here's my last build blog for the coupe and the year, but wait it just hit me we still have another week. LOL
> 
> Here's the Project finished.
> 
> We need some brake lights. Done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mufflers and wheels. Done
> It also has head lights but can't be seen till the last picture. Done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder where that motors going?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't showed this yet, it has suspension in the back.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then off to the paint shop.
> You can also see in this picture what limits the rear wheels, up and down and front to back.
> The drive shaft moves with it and keeps every thing in line.


Now that's really going to be very good ride Bruce…

Really looking ready to roll…


----------



## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Just about done with the coupe*
> 
> It's time to start something else I wonder what that is?
> So here's my last build blog for the coupe and the year, but wait it just hit me we still have another week. LOL
> 
> Here's the Project finished.
> 
> We need some brake lights. Done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mufflers and wheels. Done
> It also has head lights but can't be seen till the last picture. Done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder where that motors going?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't showed this yet, it has suspension in the back.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then off to the paint shop.
> You can also see in this picture what limits the rear wheels, up and down and front to back.
> The drive shaft moves with it and keeps every thing in line.


Amazing job; but, I bet you could have rebuilt a real one in the same amount of time!


----------



## robscastle

htl said:


> *Just about done with the coupe*
> 
> It's time to start something else I wonder what that is?
> So here's my last build blog for the coupe and the year, but wait it just hit me we still have another week. LOL
> 
> Here's the Project finished.
> 
> We need some brake lights. Done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mufflers and wheels. Done
> It also has head lights but can't be seen till the last picture. Done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder where that motors going?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't showed this yet, it has suspension in the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then off to the paint shop.
> You can also see in this picture what limits the rear wheels, up and down and front to back.
> The drive shaft moves with it and keeps every thing in line.


My god thats good work even more features underneath! .... even without those you know what mudflaps!


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Just about done with the coupe*
> 
> It's time to start something else I wonder what that is?
> So here's my last build blog for the coupe and the year, but wait it just hit me we still have another week. LOL
> 
> Here's the Project finished.
> 
> We need some brake lights. Done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mufflers and wheels. Done
> It also has head lights but can't be seen till the last picture. Done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder where that motors going?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't showed this yet, it has suspension in the back.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then off to the paint shop.
> You can also see in this picture what limits the rear wheels, up and down and front to back.
> The drive shaft moves with it and keeps every thing in line.


Nice car Bruce but I'm sure Ducky will ask for mirrors.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Just about done with the coupe*
> 
> It's time to start something else I wonder what that is?
> So here's my last build blog for the coupe and the year, but wait it just hit me we still have another week. LOL
> 
> Here's the Project finished.
> 
> We need some brake lights. Done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mufflers and wheels. Done
> It also has head lights but can't be seen till the last picture. Done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder where that motors going?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't showed this yet, it has suspension in the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then off to the paint shop.
> You can also see in this picture what limits the rear wheels, up and down and front to back.
> The drive shaft moves with it and keeps every thing in line.


I thought about mirrors but I didn't want to miss the BUS!!!
I may go back and add some later, Ya right!!!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Just about done with the coupe*
> 
> It's time to start something else I wonder what that is?
> So here's my last build blog for the coupe and the year, but wait it just hit me we still have another week. LOL
> 
> Here's the Project finished.
> 
> We need some brake lights. Done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mufflers and wheels. Done
> It also has head lights but can't be seen till the last picture. Done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder where that motors going?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't showed this yet, it has suspension in the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then off to the paint shop.
> You can also see in this picture what limits the rear wheels, up and down and front to back.
> The drive shaft moves with it and keeps every thing in line.





> Amazing job; but, I bet you could have rebuilt a real one in the same amount of time!
> 
> - ralbuck


If I have to get out of my chair it ain't going to happen.
I quit wrenching a long time ago, and buy trucks that don't need fixing. LOL
Motor cycles has always been my main go fast tool.


----------



## Redoak49

htl said:


> *Just about done with the coupe*
> 
> It's time to start something else I wonder what that is?
> So here's my last build blog for the coupe and the year, but wait it just hit me we still have another week. LOL
> 
> Here's the Project finished.
> 
> We need some brake lights. Done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mufflers and wheels. Done
> It also has head lights but can't be seen till the last picture. Done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder where that motors going?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't showed this yet, it has suspension in the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then off to the paint shop.
> You can also see in this picture what limits the rear wheels, up and down and front to back.
> The drive shaft moves with it and keeps every thing in line.


Thanks for the blogs this year….so interesting and helpful. I need to do some reading of past blogs and find a first project and learn to make some wheels.

Merry Christmas and hope Santa brings you useful tools.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Just about done with the coupe*
> 
> It's time to start something else I wonder what that is?
> So here's my last build blog for the coupe and the year, but wait it just hit me we still have another week. LOL
> 
> Here's the Project finished.
> 
> We need some brake lights. Done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mufflers and wheels. Done
> It also has head lights but can't be seen till the last picture. Done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder where that motors going?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't showed this yet, it has suspension in the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then off to the paint shop.
> You can also see in this picture what limits the rear wheels, up and down and front to back.
> The drive shaft moves with it and keeps every thing in line.





> ... but I didn't want to miss the BUS!!!
> 
> - htl


You may… the ones sneaking up behind you… without your mirrors.

*BTW*... where's the rear bumpers… with that donk, you need to worry about traffic behind you (except maybe busses… with mirrors), BUT… what protects the boot when the missus backs out of the driveway?

Nice job *#4*, but what are those metal pieces you tried to hide underneath?


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Just about done with the coupe*
> 
> It's time to start something else I wonder what that is?
> So here's my last build blog for the coupe and the year, but wait it just hit me we still have another week. LOL
> 
> Here's the Project finished.
> 
> We need some brake lights. Done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mufflers and wheels. Done
> It also has head lights but can't be seen till the last picture. Done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder where that motors going?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't showed this yet, it has suspension in the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then off to the paint shop.
> You can also see in this picture what limits the rear wheels, up and down and front to back.
> The drive shaft moves with it and keeps every thing in line.


Your right Ducky I used some small screws to hold the frame to the body so I could take it on and off as needed to get things fitted but all is good now so need to remove the crutches and add some dowels to hold it for keeps.
Might even add some mirrors. NOT!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Just about done with the coupe*
> 
> It's time to start something else I wonder what that is?
> So here's my last build blog for the coupe and the year, but wait it just hit me we still have another week. LOL
> 
> Here's the Project finished.
> 
> We need some brake lights. Done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mufflers and wheels. Done
> It also has head lights but can't be seen till the last picture. Done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder where that motors going?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't showed this yet, it has suspension in the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then off to the paint shop.
> You can also see in this picture what limits the rear wheels, up and down and front to back.
> The drive shaft moves with it and keeps every thing in line.





> Might even add some mirrors. NOT!
> 
> - htl


On reflection… its your call!

Oh, as a Chrissy present… forgiven for the screws.


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Just about done with the coupe*
> 
> It's time to start something else I wonder what that is?
> So here's my last build blog for the coupe and the year, but wait it just hit me we still have another week. LOL
> 
> Here's the Project finished.
> 
> We need some brake lights. Done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mufflers and wheels. Done
> It also has head lights but can't be seen till the last picture. Done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder where that motors going?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't showed this yet, it has suspension in the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then off to the paint shop.
> You can also see in this picture what limits the rear wheels, up and down and front to back.
> The drive shaft moves with it and keeps every thing in line.


Great job, love those old coupes, what about the flames we used to have on the side behind the Engine and the exhaust? Job well done I enjoyed all the post.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Just about done with the coupe*
> 
> It's time to start something else I wonder what that is?
> So here's my last build blog for the coupe and the year, but wait it just hit me we still have another week. LOL
> 
> Here's the Project finished.
> 
> We need some brake lights. Done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mufflers and wheels. Done
> It also has head lights but can't be seen till the last picture. Done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder where that motors going?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't showed this yet, it has suspension in the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then off to the paint shop.
> You can also see in this picture what limits the rear wheels, up and down and front to back.
> The drive shaft moves with it and keeps every thing in line.


Some ones model had flames on the sides of his model coupe???


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Just about done with the coupe*
> 
> It's time to start something else I wonder what that is?
> So here's my last build blog for the coupe and the year, but wait it just hit me we still have another week. LOL
> 
> Here's the Project finished.
> 
> We need some brake lights. Done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mufflers and wheels. Done
> It also has head lights but can't be seen till the last picture. Done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder where that motors going?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't showed this yet, it has suspension in the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then off to the paint shop.
> You can also see in this picture what limits the rear wheels, up and down and front to back.
> The drive shaft moves with it and keeps every thing in line.





> ... what about the flames we used to have…
> 
> - oldrivers


Yes *oldrivers*, I remember the flames… my old flame got the house and most of my money!


----------



## stefang

htl said:


> *Just about done with the coupe*
> 
> It's time to start something else I wonder what that is?
> So here's my last build blog for the coupe and the year, but wait it just hit me we still have another week. LOL
> 
> Here's the Project finished.
> 
> We need some brake lights. Done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mufflers and wheels. Done
> It also has head lights but can't be seen till the last picture. Done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder where that motors going?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't showed this yet, it has suspension in the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then off to the paint shop.
> You can also see in this picture what limits the rear wheels, up and down and front to back.
> The drive shaft moves with it and keeps every thing in line.


Looks amazing. Excellent work! I like that bike a lot too.


----------



## a1Jim

htl said:


> *Just about done with the coupe*
> 
> It's time to start something else I wonder what that is?
> So here's my last build blog for the coupe and the year, but wait it just hit me we still have another week. LOL
> 
> Here's the Project finished.
> 
> We need some brake lights. Done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mufflers and wheels. Done
> It also has head lights but can't be seen till the last picture. Done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder where that motors going?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't showed this yet, it has suspension in the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then off to the paint shop.
> You can also see in this picture what limits the rear wheels, up and down and front to back.
> The drive shaft moves with it and keeps every thing in line.


Another amazing build, as always outstanding detail. I don't see what model and year it is but my guess is a 50s era rod, a little deuce coupe?


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Just about done with the coupe*
> 
> It's time to start something else I wonder what that is?
> So here's my last build blog for the coupe and the year, but wait it just hit me we still have another week. LOL
> 
> Here's the Project finished.
> 
> We need some brake lights. Done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mufflers and wheels. Done
> It also has head lights but can't be seen till the last picture. Done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder where that motors going?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't showed this yet, it has suspension in the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then off to the paint shop.
> You can also see in this picture what limits the rear wheels, up and down and front to back.
> The drive shaft moves with it and keeps every thing in line.


Sorry Jim I had it in the title way back but got lazy and skiped it, 1934 coupe.
From the Toys And Joys collection but way modified. lol

Thanks all for checking it out , it was a fun build but ain't they all ???


----------



## woodshaver

htl said:


> *Just about done with the coupe*
> 
> It's time to start something else I wonder what that is?
> So here's my last build blog for the coupe and the year, but wait it just hit me we still have another week. LOL
> 
> Here's the Project finished.
> 
> We need some brake lights. Done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mufflers and wheels. Done
> It also has head lights but can't be seen till the last picture. Done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder where that motors going?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't showed this yet, it has suspension in the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then off to the paint shop.
> You can also see in this picture what limits the rear wheels, up and down and front to back.
> The drive shaft moves with it and keeps every thing in line.


A little late to the party. Love it all! Your having way to much fun!


----------



## htl

*Building a VW Bus*

Couldn't stand it and had to play with Dutchy's plans for the VW Bus.

Got started on the cabin, and loading space.
This will be the bottom for the VW.
VW's don't have separate frames but more of a tub construction or what do they call it unabody?.

So here's my start on the project, I've had my eye on a VW Bus build for a while but Dutchy just made available some great plans so here we go.

The side doors are hinged and Dutchy came up with a great way to get it done.
When I first saw it I was thinking what in the world is going on but now that I've got my head around it, it will work just fine.









The motor would go where my thumb is, I need to check about some pictures of one, or better yet a Porsche motor.
Can you see a hot rodded VW Bus. LOL

















Got a start on the cab but still need to add the seats.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus*
> 
> Couldn't stand it and had to play with Dutchy's plans for the VW Bus.
> 
> Got started on the cabin, and loading space.
> This will be the bottom for the VW.
> VW's don't have separate frames but more of a tub construction or what do they call it unabody?.
> 
> So here's my start on the project, I've had my eye on a VW Bus build for a while but Dutchy just made available some great plans so here we go.
> 
> The side doors are hinged and Dutchy came up with a great way to get it done.
> When I first saw it I was thinking what in the world is going on but now that I've got my head around it, it will work just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor would go where my thumb is, I need to check about some pictures of one, or better yet a Porsche motor.
> Can you see a hot rodded VW Bus. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a start on the cab but still need to add the seats.


My oh my, there's no rest for the good or the machinery in your shed Bruce…

Just saw the model that Dutchy built - WOW & WOW….

Can't wait to see how excellent yours turns out Bruce!!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus*
> 
> Couldn't stand it and had to play with Dutchy's plans for the VW Bus.
> 
> Got started on the cabin, and loading space.
> This will be the bottom for the VW.
> VW's don't have separate frames but more of a tub construction or what do they call it unabody?.
> 
> So here's my start on the project, I've had my eye on a VW Bus build for a while but Dutchy just made available some great plans so here we go.
> 
> The side doors are hinged and Dutchy came up with a great way to get it done.
> When I first saw it I was thinking what in the world is going on but now that I've got my head around it, it will work just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor would go where my thumb is, I need to check about some pictures of one, or better yet a Porsche motor.
> Can you see a hot rodded VW Bus. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a start on the cab but still need to add the seats.


Won't go as far into the details as Dutch but a Hot Rod Bus should be cool.
We'll see what the wood wants to do when the time comes.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus*
> 
> Couldn't stand it and had to play with Dutchy's plans for the VW Bus.
> 
> Got started on the cabin, and loading space.
> This will be the bottom for the VW.
> VW's don't have separate frames but more of a tub construction or what do they call it unabody?.
> 
> So here's my start on the project, I've had my eye on a VW Bus build for a while but Dutchy just made available some great plans so here we go.
> 
> The side doors are hinged and Dutchy came up with a great way to get it done.
> When I first saw it I was thinking what in the world is going on but now that I've got my head around it, it will work just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor would go where my thumb is, I need to check about some pictures of one, or better yet a Porsche motor.
> Can you see a hot rodded VW Bus. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a start on the cab but still need to add the seats.





> Won t go as far into the details as Dutch but a Hot Rod Bus should be cool.
> 
> - htl


Hey maybe a VW that runs on *tracks*! Can't remember seeing too many of those in the past.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus*
> 
> Couldn't stand it and had to play with Dutchy's plans for the VW Bus.
> 
> Got started on the cabin, and loading space.
> This will be the bottom for the VW.
> VW's don't have separate frames but more of a tub construction or what do they call it unabody?.
> 
> So here's my start on the project, I've had my eye on a VW Bus build for a while but Dutchy just made available some great plans so here we go.
> 
> The side doors are hinged and Dutchy came up with a great way to get it done.
> When I first saw it I was thinking what in the world is going on but now that I've got my head around it, it will work just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor would go where my thumb is, I need to check about some pictures of one, or better yet a Porsche motor.
> Can you see a hot rodded VW Bus. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a start on the cab but still need to add the seats.


you will be done before me Bruce ….so slow down brother LMAO :<))


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus*
> 
> Couldn't stand it and had to play with Dutchy's plans for the VW Bus.
> 
> Got started on the cabin, and loading space.
> This will be the bottom for the VW.
> VW's don't have separate frames but more of a tub construction or what do they call it unabody?.
> 
> So here's my start on the project, I've had my eye on a VW Bus build for a while but Dutchy just made available some great plans so here we go.
> 
> The side doors are hinged and Dutchy came up with a great way to get it done.
> When I first saw it I was thinking what in the world is going on but now that I've got my head around it, it will work just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor would go where my thumb is, I need to check about some pictures of one, or better yet a Porsche motor.
> Can you see a hot rodded VW Bus. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a start on the cab but still need to add the seats.


I may have got a head start but you can learn from my mistakes and the wood always talks to us differently.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus*
> 
> Couldn't stand it and had to play with Dutchy's plans for the VW Bus.
> 
> Got started on the cabin, and loading space.
> This will be the bottom for the VW.
> VW's don't have separate frames but more of a tub construction or what do they call it unabody?.
> 
> So here's my start on the project, I've had my eye on a VW Bus build for a while but Dutchy just made available some great plans so here we go.
> 
> The side doors are hinged and Dutchy came up with a great way to get it done.
> When I first saw it I was thinking what in the world is going on but now that I've got my head around it, it will work just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor would go where my thumb is, I need to check about some pictures of one, or better yet a Porsche motor.
> Can you see a hot rodded VW Bus. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a start on the cab but still need to add the seats.


Nice to see someone started building the bus. And even better to see is a blog about it.
You are in hurry Bruce and I wish you a lot of building fun. And in the drawing there is no motor, so go ahead and do not feel inhibited.

I probably will not comment on every blog but for sure I will watch them all carefully.









THANKS FOR THE LINK.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus*
> 
> Couldn't stand it and had to play with Dutchy's plans for the VW Bus.
> 
> Got started on the cabin, and loading space.
> This will be the bottom for the VW.
> VW's don't have separate frames but more of a tub construction or what do they call it unabody?.
> 
> So here's my start on the project, I've had my eye on a VW Bus build for a while but Dutchy just made available some great plans so here we go.
> 
> The side doors are hinged and Dutchy came up with a great way to get it done.
> When I first saw it I was thinking what in the world is going on but now that I've got my head around it, it will work just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor would go where my thumb is, I need to check about some pictures of one, or better yet a Porsche motor.
> Can you see a hot rodded VW Bus. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a start on the cab but still need to add the seats.





> Won t go as far into the details as Dutch but a Hot Rod Bus should be cool.
> 
> - htl
> 
> Hey maybe a VW that runs on *tracks*! Can t remember seeing too many of those in the past.
> 
> - LittleBlackDuck


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus*
> 
> Couldn't stand it and had to play with Dutchy's plans for the VW Bus.
> 
> Got started on the cabin, and loading space.
> This will be the bottom for the VW.
> VW's don't have separate frames but more of a tub construction or what do they call it unabody?.
> 
> So here's my start on the project, I've had my eye on a VW Bus build for a while but Dutchy just made available some great plans so here we go.
> 
> The side doors are hinged and Dutchy came up with a great way to get it done.
> When I first saw it I was thinking what in the world is going on but now that I've got my head around it, it will work just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor would go where my thumb is, I need to check about some pictures of one, or better yet a Porsche motor.
> Can you see a hot rodded VW Bus. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a start on the cab but still need to add the seats.





> - Dutchy


Hey *#4*, I'll ignore any remarks if you leave the red light out.

Thanks *Dutchy*!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus*
> 
> Couldn't stand it and had to play with Dutchy's plans for the VW Bus.
> 
> Got started on the cabin, and loading space.
> This will be the bottom for the VW.
> VW's don't have separate frames but more of a tub construction or what do they call it unabody?.
> 
> So here's my start on the project, I've had my eye on a VW Bus build for a while but Dutchy just made available some great plans so here we go.
> 
> The side doors are hinged and Dutchy came up with a great way to get it done.
> When I first saw it I was thinking what in the world is going on but now that I've got my head around it, it will work just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor would go where my thumb is, I need to check about some pictures of one, or better yet a Porsche motor.
> Can you see a hot rodded VW Bus. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a start on the cab but still need to add the seats.


Those are just way cool!!!
I have been wanting to build a set a tracks from the half track and put them on something, and this would fit the bill nicely, but!!!
That's not what I would call Hot Rodding more in the lines of utility to me.
I've still got time to come up with something, at least till noon or so. lol

I can see we're going to have some fun with these plans!!!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus*
> 
> Couldn't stand it and had to play with Dutchy's plans for the VW Bus.
> 
> Got started on the cabin, and loading space.
> This will be the bottom for the VW.
> VW's don't have separate frames but more of a tub construction or what do they call it unabody?.
> 
> So here's my start on the project, I've had my eye on a VW Bus build for a while but Dutchy just made available some great plans so here we go.
> 
> The side doors are hinged and Dutchy came up with a great way to get it done.
> When I first saw it I was thinking what in the world is going on but now that I've got my head around it, it will work just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor would go where my thumb is, I need to check about some pictures of one, or better yet a Porsche motor.
> Can you see a hot rodded VW Bus. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a start on the cab but still need to add the seats.


Went looking or hot rod motors for my bus but there just not as pretty as a big V8.

Of course if your a VW nut it's all in the eyes of the beholder I guess.

I remember way back 1972 when I owned a 1950 bug putting a tuned exhaust on it and thought it looked way cool with it's 35 HP. LOL


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus*
> 
> Couldn't stand it and had to play with Dutchy's plans for the VW Bus.
> 
> Got started on the cabin, and loading space.
> This will be the bottom for the VW.
> VW's don't have separate frames but more of a tub construction or what do they call it unabody?.
> 
> So here's my start on the project, I've had my eye on a VW Bus build for a while but Dutchy just made available some great plans so here we go.
> 
> The side doors are hinged and Dutchy came up with a great way to get it done.
> When I first saw it I was thinking what in the world is going on but now that I've got my head around it, it will work just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor would go where my thumb is, I need to check about some pictures of one, or better yet a Porsche motor.
> Can you see a hot rodded VW Bus. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a start on the cab but still need to add the seats.





> I probably will not comment on every blog *but for sure I will watch them all carefully.*
> 
> - Dutchy


*No pressure there!!! LOL*


----------



## stefang

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus*
> 
> Couldn't stand it and had to play with Dutchy's plans for the VW Bus.
> 
> Got started on the cabin, and loading space.
> This will be the bottom for the VW.
> VW's don't have separate frames but more of a tub construction or what do they call it unabody?.
> 
> So here's my start on the project, I've had my eye on a VW Bus build for a while but Dutchy just made available some great plans so here we go.
> 
> The side doors are hinged and Dutchy came up with a great way to get it done.
> When I first saw it I was thinking what in the world is going on but now that I've got my head around it, it will work just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor would go where my thumb is, I need to check about some pictures of one, or better yet a Porsche motor.
> Can you see a hot rodded VW Bus. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a start on the cab but still need to add the seats.


Looking forward to seeing it progress.


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus*
> 
> Couldn't stand it and had to play with Dutchy's plans for the VW Bus.
> 
> Got started on the cabin, and loading space.
> This will be the bottom for the VW.
> VW's don't have separate frames but more of a tub construction or what do they call it unabody?.
> 
> So here's my start on the project, I've had my eye on a VW Bus build for a while but Dutchy just made available some great plans so here we go.
> 
> The side doors are hinged and Dutchy came up with a great way to get it done.
> When I first saw it I was thinking what in the world is going on but now that I've got my head around it, it will work just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor would go where my thumb is, I need to check about some pictures of one, or better yet a Porsche motor.
> Can you see a hot rodded VW Bus. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a start on the cab but still need to add the seats.


Keep us posted.


----------



## woodshaver

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus*
> 
> Couldn't stand it and had to play with Dutchy's plans for the VW Bus.
> 
> Got started on the cabin, and loading space.
> This will be the bottom for the VW.
> VW's don't have separate frames but more of a tub construction or what do they call it unabody?.
> 
> So here's my start on the project, I've had my eye on a VW Bus build for a while but Dutchy just made available some great plans so here we go.
> 
> The side doors are hinged and Dutchy came up with a great way to get it done.
> When I first saw it I was thinking what in the world is going on but now that I've got my head around it, it will work just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor would go where my thumb is, I need to check about some pictures of one, or better yet a Porsche motor.
> Can you see a hot rodded VW Bus. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a start on the cab but still need to add the seats.


I'll be waiting to see more! So far so good!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus*
> 
> Couldn't stand it and had to play with Dutchy's plans for the VW Bus.
> 
> Got started on the cabin, and loading space.
> This will be the bottom for the VW.
> VW's don't have separate frames but more of a tub construction or what do they call it unabody?.
> 
> So here's my start on the project, I've had my eye on a VW Bus build for a while but Dutchy just made available some great plans so here we go.
> 
> The side doors are hinged and Dutchy came up with a great way to get it done.
> When I first saw it I was thinking what in the world is going on but now that I've got my head around it, it will work just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor would go where my thumb is, I need to check about some pictures of one, or better yet a Porsche motor.
> Can you see a hot rodded VW Bus. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a start on the cab but still need to add the seats.


I'm working on it, I'm working,working.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus*
> 
> Couldn't stand it and had to play with Dutchy's plans for the VW Bus.
> 
> Got started on the cabin, and loading space.
> This will be the bottom for the VW.
> VW's don't have separate frames but more of a tub construction or what do they call it unabody?.
> 
> So here's my start on the project, I've had my eye on a VW Bus build for a while but Dutchy just made available some great plans so here we go.
> 
> The side doors are hinged and Dutchy came up with a great way to get it done.
> When I first saw it I was thinking what in the world is going on but now that I've got my head around it, it will work just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor would go where my thumb is, I need to check about some pictures of one, or better yet a Porsche motor.
> Can you see a hot rodded VW Bus. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a start on the cab but still need to add the seats.





>


This last one looks like one of Ducky's Photo Shop fixes, me thinks. lol


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus*
> 
> Couldn't stand it and had to play with Dutchy's plans for the VW Bus.
> 
> Got started on the cabin, and loading space.
> This will be the bottom for the VW.
> VW's don't have separate frames but more of a tub construction or what do they call it unabody?.
> 
> So here's my start on the project, I've had my eye on a VW Bus build for a while but Dutchy just made available some great plans so here we go.
> 
> The side doors are hinged and Dutchy came up with a great way to get it done.
> When I first saw it I was thinking what in the world is going on but now that I've got my head around it, it will work just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor would go where my thumb is, I need to check about some pictures of one, or better yet a Porsche motor.
> Can you see a hot rodded VW Bus. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a start on the cab but still need to add the seats.





> This last one looks like one of Ducky s Photo Shop fixes, me thinks. lol
> 
> - htl


Now that is one impressive vehicle… *VW*oo, *VW*oo…

Certainly noting to do with me… If I had a hand in it, it'd be rolling on the right hand side of the tracks…


----------



## stefang

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus*
> 
> Couldn't stand it and had to play with Dutchy's plans for the VW Bus.
> 
> Got started on the cabin, and loading space.
> This will be the bottom for the VW.
> VW's don't have separate frames but more of a tub construction or what do they call it unabody?.
> 
> So here's my start on the project, I've had my eye on a VW Bus build for a while but Dutchy just made available some great plans so here we go.
> 
> The side doors are hinged and Dutchy came up with a great way to get it done.
> When I first saw it I was thinking what in the world is going on but now that I've got my head around it, it will work just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor would go where my thumb is, I need to check about some pictures of one, or better yet a Porsche motor.
> Can you see a hot rodded VW Bus. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a start on the cab but still need to add the seats.


Wow, this VW bus thing must have a cult following. Thanks for posting the wonderful photos of all the variations.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus*
> 
> Couldn't stand it and had to play with Dutchy's plans for the VW Bus.
> 
> Got started on the cabin, and loading space.
> This will be the bottom for the VW.
> VW's don't have separate frames but more of a tub construction or what do they call it unabody?.
> 
> So here's my start on the project, I've had my eye on a VW Bus build for a while but Dutchy just made available some great plans so here we go.
> 
> The side doors are hinged and Dutchy came up with a great way to get it done.
> When I first saw it I was thinking what in the world is going on but now that I've got my head around it, it will work just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor would go where my thumb is, I need to check about some pictures of one, or better yet a Porsche motor.
> Can you see a hot rodded VW Bus. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a start on the cab but still need to add the seats.


Forget the track Bruce, just drop a V8 in the engine bay…

If not a V8, a flat 6 from a 911 Porsche is a common engine upgrade…


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus*
> 
> Couldn't stand it and had to play with Dutchy's plans for the VW Bus.
> 
> Got started on the cabin, and loading space.
> This will be the bottom for the VW.
> VW's don't have separate frames but more of a tub construction or what do they call it unabody?.
> 
> So here's my start on the project, I've had my eye on a VW Bus build for a while but Dutchy just made available some great plans so here we go.
> 
> The side doors are hinged and Dutchy came up with a great way to get it done.
> When I first saw it I was thinking what in the world is going on but now that I've got my head around it, it will work just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor would go where my thumb is, I need to check about some pictures of one, or better yet a Porsche motor.
> Can you see a hot rodded VW Bus. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a start on the cab but still need to add the seats.


I was thinking a Corvair engine, they used to put them in there..
I've got a fun idea for tomorrows pictures, I hope I remember to try it. LOL!!!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus*
> 
> Couldn't stand it and had to play with Dutchy's plans for the VW Bus.
> 
> Got started on the cabin, and loading space.
> This will be the bottom for the VW.
> VW's don't have separate frames but more of a tub construction or what do they call it unabody?.
> 
> So here's my start on the project, I've had my eye on a VW Bus build for a while but Dutchy just made available some great plans so here we go.
> 
> The side doors are hinged and Dutchy came up with a great way to get it done.
> When I first saw it I was thinking what in the world is going on but now that I've got my head around it, it will work just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor would go where my thumb is, I need to check about some pictures of one, or better yet a Porsche motor.
> Can you see a hot rodded VW Bus. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a start on the cab but still need to add the seats.





> I was thinking a *Corvair* engine, ....
> - htl


Or maybe even try *Caviar* and take it for a swim… just to get off track!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus*
> 
> Couldn't stand it and had to play with Dutchy's plans for the VW Bus.
> 
> Got started on the cabin, and loading space.
> This will be the bottom for the VW.
> VW's don't have separate frames but more of a tub construction or what do they call it unabody?.
> 
> So here's my start on the project, I've had my eye on a VW Bus build for a while but Dutchy just made available some great plans so here we go.
> 
> The side doors are hinged and Dutchy came up with a great way to get it done.
> When I first saw it I was thinking what in the world is going on but now that I've got my head around it, it will work just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor would go where my thumb is, I need to check about some pictures of one, or better yet a Porsche motor.
> Can you see a hot rodded VW Bus. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a start on the cab but still need to add the seats.


Sorry *#4*, I'm not mechanically minded and I actually misread *Corvair* for *Caviar* and thought " #4 has had #5 vinos….
After the dust settled down I just couldn't leave that transgression alone.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus*
> 
> Couldn't stand it and had to play with Dutchy's plans for the VW Bus.
> 
> Got started on the cabin, and loading space.
> This will be the bottom for the VW.
> VW's don't have separate frames but more of a tub construction or what do they call it unabody?.
> 
> So here's my start on the project, I've had my eye on a VW Bus build for a while but Dutchy just made available some great plans so here we go.
> 
> The side doors are hinged and Dutchy came up with a great way to get it done.
> When I first saw it I was thinking what in the world is going on but now that I've got my head around it, it will work just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor would go where my thumb is, I need to check about some pictures of one, or better yet a Porsche motor.
> Can you see a hot rodded VW Bus. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a start on the cab but still need to add the seats.


Yes a Chevy Corvair motor for this.









But if that's not good enough we could always put a real motor in it!!!.
I just so happen to have one out in the shop.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus*
> 
> Couldn't stand it and had to play with Dutchy's plans for the VW Bus.
> 
> Got started on the cabin, and loading space.
> This will be the bottom for the VW.
> VW's don't have separate frames but more of a tub construction or what do they call it unabody?.
> 
> So here's my start on the project, I've had my eye on a VW Bus build for a while but Dutchy just made available some great plans so here we go.
> 
> The side doors are hinged and Dutchy came up with a great way to get it done.
> When I first saw it I was thinking what in the world is going on but now that I've got my head around it, it will work just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor would go where my thumb is, I need to check about some pictures of one, or better yet a Porsche motor.
> Can you see a hot rodded VW Bus. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a start on the cab but still need to add the seats.





> I just so happen to have one out in the shop.
> - htl


You mean your bike motor? Wouldn't taking the motor out make it too light for the training wheels?


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus*
> 
> Couldn't stand it and had to play with Dutchy's plans for the VW Bus.
> 
> Got started on the cabin, and loading space.
> This will be the bottom for the VW.
> VW's don't have separate frames but more of a tub construction or what do they call it unabody?.
> 
> So here's my start on the project, I've had my eye on a VW Bus build for a while but Dutchy just made available some great plans so here we go.
> 
> The side doors are hinged and Dutchy came up with a great way to get it done.
> When I first saw it I was thinking what in the world is going on but now that I've got my head around it, it will work just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor would go where my thumb is, I need to check about some pictures of one, or better yet a Porsche motor.
> Can you see a hot rodded VW Bus. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a start on the cab but still need to add the seats.


NO!!! I mean this mean motor!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Remember I made two and have a third one in parts.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus*
> 
> Couldn't stand it and had to play with Dutchy's plans for the VW Bus.
> 
> Got started on the cabin, and loading space.
> This will be the bottom for the VW.
> VW's don't have separate frames but more of a tub construction or what do they call it unabody?.
> 
> So here's my start on the project, I've had my eye on a VW Bus build for a while but Dutchy just made available some great plans so here we go.
> 
> The side doors are hinged and Dutchy came up with a great way to get it done.
> When I first saw it I was thinking what in the world is going on but now that I've got my head around it, it will work just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor would go where my thumb is, I need to check about some pictures of one, or better yet a Porsche motor.
> Can you see a hot rodded VW Bus. LOL
> 
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> Got a start on the cab but still need to add the seats.


OK… Who dares to say I can't compromise?... However, if you use the motor, won't you have to put that spare one into the Chevy where the gap that you just created is?

*#4*, *#4*, *#4*... Personally that is far too much mucking about… Maybe to save time you should create a new one from scratch… How did you ever manage in the past without my wise advice? DOH!

*PS.* Sorry about that original oversight *#4*. They say that gold fish have a memory span of 2 seconds (reliable Sultana Bran TV ad… I think)... and they (gold fish not Sultana Bran) swim circles around ducks.


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## htl

*Building a VW Bus #2*

Cut out the sides and made up the front but really doesn't look like much work, but you got to start somewhere.


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## woodshaver

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus #2*
> 
> Cut out the sides and made up the front but really doesn't look like much work, but you got to start somewhere.


I'm visiting out of state but checking in once in awhile! Looking good so far!


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus #2*
> 
> Cut out the sides and made up the front but really doesn't look like much work, but you got to start somewhere.


Beaut progression *#4*. Did you cut those great contour matching front curved parts out of the same piece of timber?

*PS.* After looking at the alignment of the front with the sides, made me realise why they used to call the Germans *"[square heads]"*.... DOH! Then I realised that you and *Dutchy* were the master of sanding back to shape.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus #2*
> 
> Cut out the sides and made up the front but really doesn't look like much work, but you got to start somewhere.





> Did you cut those great contour matching front curved parts out of the same piece of timber?
> 
> - LittleBlackDuck


The outside is Cherry and the inside is maple.
It takes a lot a work to try and keep up with Dutchy!!!


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus #2*
> 
> Cut out the sides and made up the front but really doesn't look like much work, but you got to start somewhere.





> The outside is Cherry and the inside is maple.
> - htl


Phew! With your rate of progress I was wondering how on earth you had time to find the right shaped grain pattern… let alone follow it closely on your scroll saw.

Unfortunately that makes you fall 1 point in my hero ranking!... sorry… I had put up without tracks in the past but there is a limit… two pieces of timber… shucks!


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## stefang

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus #2*
> 
> Cut out the sides and made up the front but really doesn't look like much work, but you got to start somewhere.


Looking good so far.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus #2*
> 
> Cut out the sides and made up the front but really doesn't look like much work, but you got to start somewhere.


I missed this part of the process Bruce, But did see the most important part…THAT ENGINE!!!


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## htl

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus #2*
> 
> Cut out the sides and made up the front but really doesn't look like much work, but you got to start somewhere.


Get with the program crowie we can't have you falling behind!!! ;-]


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus #2*
> 
> Cut out the sides and made up the front but really doesn't look like much work, but you got to start somewhere.





> Get with the program crowie we can t have you falling behind!!! ;-]
> 
> - htl


Left behind oh no!!


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## htl

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus #2*
> 
> Cut out the sides and made up the front but really doesn't look like much work, but you got to start somewhere.


Are you sure there wasn't another reason you fell behind???


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus #2*
> 
> Cut out the sides and made up the front but really doesn't look like much work, but you got to start somewhere.





> Are you sure there wasn t another reason you fell behind???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - htl


Don't feel ostracised *crowie*... you can't help your plumage… even if you can't swim…



> Get with the program crowie we can t have you falling behind!!! ;-]
> 
> - htl


How the hell can we Aussies be accused of falling behind when we read stuff *10 hours* before it's* posted*.... (well those that read)...

*PS. *
*
crowie*, Just notice…









That last duck must be a Yankee one… paddling like hell to keep up with us blackies!


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## htl

*Building a VW Bus #3 Rounding out the front*

Couple more hours playing with the bus.

Just had to stick that motor in there after we TALKED ABOUT IT. LOL

Makes me go HMMMMMMM!!!




































Added the handle [using super glue] so I would get nice straight cuts and sandings.










I'm going for very simple rounded edges but if you build one be sure and check the plans cause I've already changed at least 4 things [ they're not wrong I just went a different way] and one is the step in the nose of Dutchys plans, the nose should be 1/16 or so out from the main front of the body, a super nice touch but it wouldn't be me if I didn't change a few things.

Just wanted to be sure I don't lead some one down the wrong path if their wanting to build it to the plans.


















Wish the maple didn't have that dark grain right in the nose of the front grill but got to much work in it now to change and the minds working for options if it turns out ugly.



















Two more with the motor in it. LOL
I'm not going to do it but just a fun thought.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus #3 Rounding out the front*
> 
> Couple more hours playing with the bus.
> 
> Just had to stick that motor in there after we TALKED ABOUT IT. LOL
> 
> Makes me go HMMMMMMM!!!
> 
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> 
> Added the handle [using super glue] so I would get nice straight cuts and sandings.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going for very simple rounded edges but if you build one be sure and check the plans cause I've already changed at least 4 things [ they're not wrong I just went a different way] and one is the step in the nose of Dutchys plans, the nose should be 1/16 or so out from the main front of the body, a super nice touch but it wouldn't be me if I didn't change a few things.
> 
> Just wanted to be sure I don't lead some one down the wrong path if their wanting to build it to the plans.
> 
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> Wish the maple didn't have that dark grain right in the nose of the front grill but got to much work in it now to change and the minds working for options if it turns out ugly.
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> Two more with the motor in it. LOL
> I'm not going to do it but just a fun thought.





> ..... cause I ve already changed at least 4 things…..
> 
> - htl


OK… Left out 2 mirrors and 2 tracks… what else you gonna change?



> Added the handle so I would get nice straight cuts and sandings.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - htl


Just as a FMI, what did you use? Double sider, hot glue, dowel, 6" nail?


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## Redoak49

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus #3 Rounding out the front*
> 
> Couple more hours playing with the bus.
> 
> Just had to stick that motor in there after we TALKED ABOUT IT. LOL
> 
> Makes me go HMMMMMMM!!!
> 
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> 
> Added the handle [using super glue] so I would get nice straight cuts and sandings.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going for very simple rounded edges but if you build one be sure and check the plans cause I've already changed at least 4 things [ they're not wrong I just went a different way] and one is the step in the nose of Dutchys plans, the nose should be 1/16 or so out from the main front of the body, a super nice touch but it wouldn't be me if I didn't change a few things.
> 
> Just wanted to be sure I don't lead some one down the wrong path if their wanting to build it to the plans.
> 
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> Wish the maple didn't have that dark grain right in the nose of the front grill but got to much work in it now to change and the minds working for options if it turns out ugly.
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> Two more with the motor in it. LOL
> I'm not going to do it but just a fun thought.


Really like the front end the engine!


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus #3 Rounding out the front*
> 
> Couple more hours playing with the bus.
> 
> Just had to stick that motor in there after we TALKED ABOUT IT. LOL
> 
> Makes me go HMMMMMMM!!!
> 
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> 
> Added the handle [using super glue] so I would get nice straight cuts and sandings.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> I'm going for very simple rounded edges but if you build one be sure and check the plans cause I've already changed at least 4 things [ they're not wrong I just went a different way] and one is the step in the nose of Dutchys plans, the nose should be 1/16 or so out from the main front of the body, a super nice touch but it wouldn't be me if I didn't change a few things.
> 
> Just wanted to be sure I don't lead some one down the wrong path if their wanting to build it to the plans.
> 
> 
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> Wish the maple didn't have that dark grain right in the nose of the front grill but got to much work in it now to change and the minds working for options if it turns out ugly.
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> Two more with the motor in it. LOL
> I'm not going to do it but just a fun thought.


From a box to a bus with a way hot engine…. Looking good Bruce!


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus #3 Rounding out the front*
> 
> Couple more hours playing with the bus.
> 
> Just had to stick that motor in there after we TALKED ABOUT IT. LOL
> 
> Makes me go HMMMMMMM!!!
> 
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> Added the handle [using super glue] so I would get nice straight cuts and sandings.
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> I'm going for very simple rounded edges but if you build one be sure and check the plans cause I've already changed at least 4 things [ they're not wrong I just went a different way] and one is the step in the nose of Dutchys plans, the nose should be 1/16 or so out from the main front of the body, a super nice touch but it wouldn't be me if I didn't change a few things.
> 
> Just wanted to be sure I don't lead some one down the wrong path if their wanting to build it to the plans.
> 
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> Wish the maple didn't have that dark grain right in the nose of the front grill but got to much work in it now to change and the minds working for options if it turns out ugly.
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> Two more with the motor in it. LOL
> I'm not going to do it but just a fun thought.


That engine..


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## htl

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus #3 Rounding out the front*
> 
> Couple more hours playing with the bus.
> 
> Just had to stick that motor in there after we TALKED ABOUT IT. LOL
> 
> Makes me go HMMMMMMM!!!
> 
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> Added the handle [using super glue] so I would get nice straight cuts and sandings.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going for very simple rounded edges but if you build one be sure and check the plans cause I've already changed at least 4 things [ they're not wrong I just went a different way] and one is the step in the nose of Dutchys plans, the nose should be 1/16 or so out from the main front of the body, a super nice touch but it wouldn't be me if I didn't change a few things.
> 
> Just wanted to be sure I don't lead some one down the wrong path if their wanting to build it to the plans.
> 
> 
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> Wish the maple didn't have that dark grain right in the nose of the front grill but got to much work in it now to change and the minds working for options if it turns out ugly.
> 
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> Two more with the motor in it. LOL
> I'm not going to do it but just a fun thought.


Don't worry Dutchy it ain't going in the front of this model but the back that's another story. [Just kidding]

I did see one mean looking motor though.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus #3 Rounding out the front*
> 
> Couple more hours playing with the bus.
> 
> Just had to stick that motor in there after we TALKED ABOUT IT. LOL
> 
> Makes me go HMMMMMMM!!!
> 
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> 
> Added the handle [using super glue] so I would get nice straight cuts and sandings.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going for very simple rounded edges but if you build one be sure and check the plans cause I've already changed at least 4 things [ they're not wrong I just went a different way] and one is the step in the nose of Dutchys plans, the nose should be 1/16 or so out from the main front of the body, a super nice touch but it wouldn't be me if I didn't change a few things.
> 
> Just wanted to be sure I don't lead some one down the wrong path if their wanting to build it to the plans.
> 
> 
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> Wish the maple didn't have that dark grain right in the nose of the front grill but got to much work in it now to change and the minds working for options if it turns out ugly.
> 
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> Two more with the motor in it. LOL
> I'm not going to do it but just a fun thought.


Come on Bruce, It wouldn't be a "HTL" Custom Build without some flare or flames!!


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## htl

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus #3 Rounding out the front*
> 
> Couple more hours playing with the bus.
> 
> Just had to stick that motor in there after we TALKED ABOUT IT. LOL
> 
> Makes me go HMMMMMMM!!!
> 
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> 
> Added the handle [using super glue] so I would get nice straight cuts and sandings.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going for very simple rounded edges but if you build one be sure and check the plans cause I've already changed at least 4 things [ they're not wrong I just went a different way] and one is the step in the nose of Dutchys plans, the nose should be 1/16 or so out from the main front of the body, a super nice touch but it wouldn't be me if I didn't change a few things.
> 
> Just wanted to be sure I don't lead some one down the wrong path if their wanting to build it to the plans.
> 
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> Wish the maple didn't have that dark grain right in the nose of the front grill but got to much work in it now to change and the minds working for options if it turns out ugly.
> 
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> Two more with the motor in it. LOL
> I'm not going to do it but just a fun thought.


Lets not talk about flames I need heat in the shop these days. Brrrrrrrr!!!!!!!!
But all is good for working.


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus #3 Rounding out the front*
> 
> Couple more hours playing with the bus.
> 
> Just had to stick that motor in there after we TALKED ABOUT IT. LOL
> 
> Makes me go HMMMMMMM!!!
> 
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> 
> Added the handle [using super glue] so I would get nice straight cuts and sandings.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going for very simple rounded edges but if you build one be sure and check the plans cause I've already changed at least 4 things [ they're not wrong I just went a different way] and one is the step in the nose of Dutchys plans, the nose should be 1/16 or so out from the main front of the body, a super nice touch but it wouldn't be me if I didn't change a few things.
> 
> Just wanted to be sure I don't lead some one down the wrong path if their wanting to build it to the plans.
> 
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> Wish the maple didn't have that dark grain right in the nose of the front grill but got to much work in it now to change and the minds working for options if it turns out ugly.
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> Two more with the motor in it. LOL
> I'm not going to do it but just a fun thought.


But all is good for working.Amen hang in there.


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## htl

*VW Bus #4 working on the cabin and back flooring.*

Going to be getting off the reservation, starting just about now. LOL


















































































Can you guess where I'm going with this?


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## crowie

htl said:


> *VW Bus #4 working on the cabin and back flooring.*
> 
> Going to be getting off the reservation, starting just about now. LOL
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> Can you guess where I'm going with this?


A Ute/Transporter or as you'd say a Truck!!


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *VW Bus #4 working on the cabin and back flooring.*
> 
> Going to be getting off the reservation, starting just about now. LOL
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> Can you guess where I'm going with this?


V-W did make them too.

Waiting to see the finished one.


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## htl

htl said:


> *VW Bus #4 working on the cabin and back flooring.*
> 
> Going to be getting off the reservation, starting just about now. LOL
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> Can you guess where I'm going with this?





























I like this one a lot!!!!!!!!!








And here's why.









This would be a fun build.









Crowie sent me one mean truck picture, now this would be cool and would be able to use my hot rod motor too!!!


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## woodshaver

htl said:


> *VW Bus #4 working on the cabin and back flooring.*
> 
> Going to be getting off the reservation, starting just about now. LOL
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> Can you guess where I'm going with this?


Looking good!


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *VW Bus #4 working on the cabin and back flooring.*
> 
> Going to be getting off the reservation, starting just about now. LOL
> 
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> Can you guess where I'm going with this?





> Going to be getting off the *reservation*, starting just about now. LOL
> 
> - htl


Hey, Sitting Bull… how's your little *Big Horn*?


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *VW Bus #4 working on the cabin and back flooring.*
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> Going to be getting off the reservation, starting just about now. LOL
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## johnstoneb

htl said:


> *VW Bus #4 working on the cabin and back flooring.*
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> Going to be getting off the reservation, starting just about now. LOL
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Great idea. I knew you couldn't follow the plans. Really an imaginative diversion. You don
t see to many of those old transporters.


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## htl

htl said:


> *VW Bus #4 working on the cabin and back flooring.*
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> Going to be getting off the reservation, starting just about now. LOL
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My mom told me when she was a kid they would go for a ride and had a game where they got points for the different colored horses they would see.
Well as our child grow up we did it with VW's.
A VW Bug was called a Beaver = 5 points.
A VW Bus was called a Beaver Cleaver =10 points.
A VW dune buggy or a beatle striped down was a beaver streaker =35 points
A VW karmann ghia =50

Back in the day there were a lot a VW repair shops and you could get in a wreck trying to count the different Bugs while driving so =100 points for a Beaver Factory.

*AND if you saw a VW PICKUP TRUCK you pretty well won the game cause you just didn't see them.*

So by building this truck I've pretty well won the game from now on. LOL


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## crowie

htl said:


> *VW Bus #4 working on the cabin and back flooring.*
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> Going to be getting off the reservation, starting just about now. LOL
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What about the points for a VW Fast Back


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## htl

htl said:


> *VW Bus #4 working on the cabin and back flooring.*
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> Going to be getting off the reservation, starting just about now. LOL
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Sorry crowie but those are't Beatle Bugs.
I guess they looked to much like a regular car so not interested in counting them.

O! I should also add that calling one to quickly and being wrong would subtract that amount of points, so you want to be quick and it better be right!!! LOL


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## robscastle

htl said:


> *VW Bus #4 working on the cabin and back flooring.*
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> Going to be getting off the reservation, starting just about now. LOL
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I can remember my brother and I travelling in the back section behind the rear seat of our Dad's VW beetle does that count?

Check this out http://www.ronpatrickstuff.com/


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## htl

htl said:


> *VW Bus #4 working on the cabin and back flooring.*
> 
> Going to be getting off the reservation, starting just about now. LOL
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How can you play the game if your one of the main points to be had.

I would guess you could count Fords or Chevy's. LOL


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## htl

htl said:


> *VW Bus #4 working on the cabin and back flooring.*
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> Going to be getting off the reservation, starting just about now. LOL
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> I can remember my brother and I travelling in the back section behind the rear seat of our Dad s VW beetle does that count?
> 
> Check this out http://www.ronpatrickstuff.com/
> 
> - robscastle


This is just down right scary, I don't know if I could stand that jet engine in my back seat. LOL


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## crowie

htl said:


> *VW Bus #4 working on the cabin and back flooring.*
> 
> Going to be getting off the reservation, starting just about now. LOL
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Yes but it's also a hybrid according to the blog were the copper is picking his nose trying to work out a ticket…


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## htl

htl said:


> *VW Bus #4 working on the cabin and back flooring.*
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> Going to be getting off the reservation, starting just about now. LOL
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So crowie your saying it gets 40 mpg around town but hit the switch and suck up the whole tank in seconds.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *VW Bus #4 working on the cabin and back flooring.*
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> Going to be getting off the reservation, starting just about now. LOL
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At least there's a sunroof for the ejector seat… and tough… if it was closed!



> So crowie your saying it gets 40 *mpg* around town ….
> - htl


Sorry *#4*... can't get imperial petrol in Australia… strictly metric!


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## crowie

htl said:


> *VW Bus #4 working on the cabin and back flooring.*
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> Going to be getting off the reservation, starting just about now. LOL
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> So crowie your saying it gets 40 mpg around town but hit the switch and suck up the whole tank in seconds.
> 
> - htl


I can only quote what the story says….BUT I'd love to see the Prius drivers faces as it lights up…


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## htl

htl said:


> *VW Bus #4 working on the cabin and back flooring.*
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> Going to be getting off the reservation, starting just about now. LOL
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As the article say's you better not be behind it when it fires up or your toast. LOL


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## htl

htl said:


> *VW Bus #4 working on the cabin and back flooring.*
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> Going to be getting off the reservation, starting just about now. LOL
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> Going to be getting off the *reservation*, starting just about now. LOL
> 
> - htl
> 
> Hey, Sitting Bull… how s your little *Big Horn*?
> 
> - LittleBlackDuck


Ducky I just reread your post and finaly got it. LOL & LOL Again!!!


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *VW Bus #4 working on the cabin and back flooring.*
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> Going to be getting off the reservation, starting just about now. LOL
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> Ducky I just reread your post and finaly got it…
> - htl


You're a better man than me *#4*. I occasionally re-read what I commented on and then sit and wonder what planet I was on at time of publication.


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## htl

htl said:


> *VW Bus #4 working on the cabin and back flooring.*
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> Going to be getting off the reservation, starting just about now. LOL
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> Ducky I just reread your post and finaly got it…
> - htl
> 
> You re a better man than me *#4*. I occasionally re-read what I commented on and then sit and wonder what planet I was on at time of publication.
> 
> - LittleBlackDuck


I think I know what the problem is there's more than one of you!!!
You have an Evil proof reader for a twin that come around and rewrites your tales of woe.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *VW Bus #4 working on the cabin and back flooring.*
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> ... Evil … twin…
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> - htl


I prefer to think that both of them are Evil. It's just that one tends to mellow when he has a hangover.


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## htl

*VW Bus #5 working on the sides, and roof*

Made some cuts in the sides and glued them up, but had to glue up the bottom first and sand it to fit.









Then sanded every thing to match up.









Not really happy with the roof it needs something for this hot rod, lowered, shaped differently, something.
Want something a little more, or a lot more futuristic.
Will go walk about and see whats on the net for futuristic VW trucks. lol



























Maybe some wheels well get the ideas flowing.









I know it's just a VW pickup but there must be something to jazz up the roof.










The truth be told and you have probably already guessed i haven't been going by the plans much as great as they are I've got where I hardly us plans except to get the basic size and shape then off I go.
But the roof has had me needing to revisit the plans and see what dutchy did for his as I can tell from the plans he has put a ton a thought in to them, and how the roof should come together.
So why reinvent the wheel when Dutchy's already done all the hard work for me.

It's going to be way cold this week so may not be able to do mush for a couple a days.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *VW Bus #5 working on the sides, and roof*
> 
> Made some cuts in the sides and glued them up, but had to glue up the bottom first and sand it to fit.
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> Not really happy with the roof it needs something for this hot rod, lowered, shaped differently, something.
> Want something a little more, or a lot more futuristic.
> Will go walk about and see whats on the net for futuristic VW trucks. lol
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> 
> The truth be told and you have probably already guessed i haven't been going by the plans much as great as they are I've got where I hardly us plans except to get the basic size and shape then off I go.
> But the roof has had me needing to revisit the plans and see what dutchy did for his as I can tell from the plans he has put a ton a thought in to them, and how the roof should come together.
> So why reinvent the wheel when Dutchy's already done all the hard work for me.
> 
> It's going to be way cold this week so may not be able to do mush for a couple a days.


My good me Bruce, You aren't wasting any time getting this VW Ute build…looking good


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *VW Bus #5 working on the sides, and roof*
> 
> Made some cuts in the sides and glued them up, but had to glue up the bottom first and sand it to fit.
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> Not really happy with the roof it needs something for this hot rod, lowered, shaped differently, something.
> Want something a little more, or a lot more futuristic.
> Will go walk about and see whats on the net for futuristic VW trucks. lol
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> 
> The truth be told and you have probably already guessed i haven't been going by the plans much as great as they are I've got where I hardly us plans except to get the basic size and shape then off I go.
> But the roof has had me needing to revisit the plans and see what dutchy did for his as I can tell from the plans he has put a ton a thought in to them, and how the roof should come together.
> So why reinvent the wheel when Dutchy's already done all the hard work for me.
> 
> It's going to be way cold this week so may not be able to do mush for a couple a days.


Looking Good.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *VW Bus #5 working on the sides, and roof*
> 
> Made some cuts in the sides and glued them up, but had to glue up the bottom first and sand it to fit.
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> Not really happy with the roof it needs something for this hot rod, lowered, shaped differently, something.
> Want something a little more, or a lot more futuristic.
> Will go walk about and see whats on the net for futuristic VW trucks. lol
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> I know it's just a VW pickup but there must be something to jazz up the roof.
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> 
> The truth be told and you have probably already guessed i haven't been going by the plans much as great as they are I've got where I hardly us plans except to get the basic size and shape then off I go.
> But the roof has had me needing to revisit the plans and see what dutchy did for his as I can tell from the plans he has put a ton a thought in to them, and how the roof should come together.
> So why reinvent the wheel when Dutchy's already done all the hard work for me.
> 
> It's going to be way cold this week so may not be able to do mush for a couple a days.


Hey *Dutchy*... Think how much time you spent redesigning the back window corner and *#4* decides not to use it….


> .....
> A VW karmann ghia =50
> 
> Back in the day there were a* lot a VW repair shops *and …... =100 points for a Beaver Factory.


Not surprised with the blocked out driver's side windscreen! At least the passenger had the opportunity to warn of the impending crash!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *VW Bus #5 working on the sides, and roof*
> 
> Made some cuts in the sides and glued them up, but had to glue up the bottom first and sand it to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sanded every thing to match up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not really happy with the roof it needs something for this hot rod, lowered, shaped differently, something.
> Want something a little more, or a lot more futuristic.
> Will go walk about and see whats on the net for futuristic VW trucks. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe some wheels well get the ideas flowing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it's just a VW pickup but there must be something to jazz up the roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The truth be told and you have probably already guessed i haven't been going by the plans much as great as they are I've got where I hardly us plans except to get the basic size and shape then off I go.
> But the roof has had me needing to revisit the plans and see what dutchy did for his as I can tell from the plans he has put a ton a thought in to them, and how the roof should come together.
> So why reinvent the wheel when Dutchy's already done all the hard work for me.
> 
> It's going to be way cold this week so may not be able to do mush for a couple a days.





> Hey *Dutchy*... Think how much time you spent redesigning the back window corner and *#4* decides not to use it….
> 
> - LittleBlackDuck


After reading this I will *check out your back window corner *cause I'm now having trouble with mine. LOL


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *VW Bus #5 working on the sides, and roof*
> 
> Made some cuts in the sides and glued them up, but had to glue up the bottom first and sand it to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sanded every thing to match up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not really happy with the roof it needs something for this hot rod, lowered, shaped differently, something.
> Want something a little more, or a lot more futuristic.
> Will go walk about and see whats on the net for futuristic VW trucks. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe some wheels well get the ideas flowing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it's just a VW pickup but there must be something to jazz up the roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The truth be told and you have probably already guessed i haven't been going by the plans much as great as they are I've got where I hardly us plans except to get the basic size and shape then off I go.
> But the roof has had me needing to revisit the plans and see what dutchy did for his as I can tell from the plans he has put a ton a thought in to them, and how the roof should come together.
> So why reinvent the wheel when Dutchy's already done all the hard work for me.
> 
> It's going to be way cold this week so may not be able to do mush for a couple a days.





> Not surprised with the blocked out driver s side windscreen! At least the passenger had the opportunity to warn of the impending crash!
> 
> - LittleBlackDuck


Some times I have to read your posts a bunch a times to get the hummer but I read this way early and just now figured it out. LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

That's not part of the project Ducky it's a roof holding jig, very precise I had to look through 5 or 6 stacks of wood to find just the right one.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *VW Bus #5 working on the sides, and roof*
> 
> Made some cuts in the sides and glued them up, but had to glue up the bottom first and sand it to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sanded every thing to match up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not really happy with the roof it needs something for this hot rod, lowered, shaped differently, something.
> Want something a little more, or a lot more futuristic.
> Will go walk about and see whats on the net for futuristic VW trucks. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe some wheels well get the ideas flowing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it's just a VW pickup but there must be something to jazz up the roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The truth be told and you have probably already guessed i haven't been going by the plans much as great as they are I've got where I hardly us plans except to get the basic size and shape then off I go.
> But the roof has had me needing to revisit the plans and see what dutchy did for his as I can tell from the plans he has put a ton a thought in to them, and how the roof should come together.
> So why reinvent the wheel when Dutchy's already done all the hard work for me.
> 
> It's going to be way cold this week so may not be able to do mush for a couple a days.





> ... it s a roof holding jig, very precise …
> 
> - htl


Fabricating such jigs (and stacks of wood) are what VW customizers are always face with… No wonder they (VWs) went out of production!


----------



## stefang

htl said:


> *VW Bus #5 working on the sides, and roof*
> 
> Made some cuts in the sides and glued them up, but had to glue up the bottom first and sand it to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sanded every thing to match up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not really happy with the roof it needs something for this hot rod, lowered, shaped differently, something.
> Want something a little more, or a lot more futuristic.
> Will go walk about and see whats on the net for futuristic VW trucks. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe some wheels well get the ideas flowing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it's just a VW pickup but there must be something to jazz up the roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The truth be told and you have probably already guessed i haven't been going by the plans much as great as they are I've got where I hardly us plans except to get the basic size and shape then off I go.
> But the roof has had me needing to revisit the plans and see what dutchy did for his as I can tell from the plans he has put a ton a thought in to them, and how the roof should come together.
> So why reinvent the wheel when Dutchy's already done all the hard work for me.
> 
> It's going to be way cold this week so may not be able to do mush for a couple a days.


This is coming along nicely. Great work.


----------



## Jason1974

htl said:


> *VW Bus #5 working on the sides, and roof*
> 
> Made some cuts in the sides and glued them up, but had to glue up the bottom first and sand it to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sanded every thing to match up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not really happy with the roof it needs something for this hot rod, lowered, shaped differently, something.
> Want something a little more, or a lot more futuristic.
> Will go walk about and see whats on the net for futuristic VW trucks. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe some wheels well get the ideas flowing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it's just a VW pickup but there must be something to jazz up the roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The truth be told and you have probably already guessed i haven't been going by the plans much as great as they are I've got where I hardly us plans except to get the basic size and shape then off I go.
> But the roof has had me needing to revisit the plans and see what dutchy did for his as I can tell from the plans he has put a ton a thought in to them, and how the roof should come together.
> So why reinvent the wheel when Dutchy's already done all the hard work for me.
> 
> It's going to be way cold this week so may not be able to do mush for a couple a days.


HTL, that's freakin' cool. I just might have to build something like that.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *VW Bus #5 working on the sides, and roof*
> 
> Made some cuts in the sides and glued them up, but had to glue up the bottom first and sand it to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sanded every thing to match up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not really happy with the roof it needs something for this hot rod, lowered, shaped differently, something.
> Want something a little more, or a lot more futuristic.
> Will go walk about and see whats on the net for futuristic VW trucks. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe some wheels well get the ideas flowing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it's just a VW pickup but there must be something to jazz up the roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The truth be told and you have probably already guessed i haven't been going by the plans much as great as they are I've got where I hardly us plans except to get the basic size and shape then off I go.
> But the roof has had me needing to revisit the plans and see what dutchy did for his as I can tell from the plans he has put a ton a thought in to them, and how the roof should come together.
> So why reinvent the wheel when Dutchy's already done all the hard work for me.
> 
> It's going to be way cold this week so may not be able to do mush for a couple a days.


More power to ya, their a lot a *fun* and work. LOL


----------



## htl

*VW Bus #6 1/2 working on the motor, and roof*

Rainy nasty day but warm enough to get in the shop and make some progress.
Built a simple motor and trans, I would have had to come up with some kind a axle mount so just build a motor and let it do the job.



































And finally got the roof figured out, I lowered it a little.








I cut out the straight back window and added a little angle to it, and thickened the roof supports.



















Trying something a little different with the head lights, I hope it works cause it would be murder to redo.


----------



## woodshaver

htl said:


> *VW Bus #6 1/2 working on the motor, and roof*
> 
> Rainy nasty day but warm enough to get in the shop and make some progress.
> Built a simple motor and trans, I would have had to come up with some kind a axle mount so just build a motor and let it do the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally got the roof figured out, I lowered it a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut out the straight back window and added a little angle to it, and thickened the roof supports.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trying something a little different with the head lights, I hope it works cause it would be murder to redo.


What makes your work so nice is the detail. So much nice detail! Your bus is looking Awesome!


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *VW Bus #6 1/2 working on the motor, and roof*
> 
> Rainy nasty day but warm enough to get in the shop and make some progress.
> Built a simple motor and trans, I would have had to come up with some kind a axle mount so just build a motor and let it do the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally got the roof figured out, I lowered it a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut out the straight back window and added a little angle to it, and thickened the roof supports.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trying something a little different with the head lights, I hope it works cause it would be murder to redo.


Fine job coming right along and looking great.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *VW Bus #6 1/2 working on the motor, and roof*
> 
> Rainy nasty day but warm enough to get in the shop and make some progress.
> Built a simple motor and trans, I would have had to come up with some kind a axle mount so just build a motor and let it do the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally got the roof figured out, I lowered it a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut out the straight back window and added a little angle to it, and thickened the roof supports.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trying something a little different with the head lights, I hope it works cause it would be murder to redo.


Wow *#4*... That is one helluva *LMDM*.

Questions, questions always questions. Did you forget the stop block for the side kerfs?

Damn… those *TYRES* with a "*Y*" look good… Nothing against the rest of the build.. but those *TYREs* even put your mags in the second row… far too much goodies in one package… oh yeh! and the stop block?...


----------



## wfv

htl said:


> *VW Bus #6 1/2 working on the motor, and roof*
> 
> Rainy nasty day but warm enough to get in the shop and make some progress.
> Built a simple motor and trans, I would have had to come up with some kind a axle mount so just build a motor and let it do the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally got the roof figured out, I lowered it a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut out the straight back window and added a little angle to it, and thickened the roof supports.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trying something a little different with the head lights, I hope it works cause it would be murder to redo.


awesome work!


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## crowie

htl said:


> *VW Bus #6 1/2 working on the motor, and roof*
> 
> Rainy nasty day but warm enough to get in the shop and make some progress.
> Built a simple motor and trans, I would have had to come up with some kind a axle mount so just build a motor and let it do the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally got the roof figured out, I lowered it a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut out the straight back window and added a little angle to it, and thickened the roof supports.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trying something a little different with the head lights, I hope it works cause it would be murder to redo.


Bruce, That's looking such a good model, maybe be too much to "hot rod" it with a big engine and flaming exhaust pipe BUT THEN!!


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## htl

*VW Bus #7 1/2 It's just about there.*

More wheels, their so small I should a used less tread but one set turned out ok.




































Then sand sand sand, you ain't never heard that before have you?


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## crowie

htl said:


> *VW Bus #7 1/2 It's just about there.*
> 
> More wheels, their so small I should a used less tread but one set turned out ok.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Then sand sand sand, you ain't never heard that before have you?


Love the underbody photo showing the "widies" on the back, all ready for a hot 1/4 mile run….


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## htl

htl said:


> *VW Bus #7 1/2 It's just about there.*
> 
> More wheels, their so small I should a used less tread but one set turned out ok.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Then sand sand sand, you ain't never heard that before have you?


Crowie when I got out of the army I left in a 1950 VW beetle with a convertible top, it had 36HP and would do like 60 if I remember right but with the top down it would only do 55, the drag of the open top really slowed it down but I had a ball in that car if you what to call it a car.


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## Redoak49

htl said:


> *VW Bus #7 1/2 It's just about there.*
> 
> More wheels, their so small I should a used less tread but one set turned out ok.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Then sand sand sand, you ain't never heard that before have you?


I love those wheels!!!!!


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## htl

htl said:


> *VW Bus #7 1/2 It's just about there.*
> 
> More wheels, their so small I should a used less tread but one set turned out ok.
> 
> 
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> 
> Then sand sand sand, you ain't never heard that before have you?


Redoak 
The rear wheels and hubs are left overs from the hot rod build but had a little trouble getting some thin small front wheels, if I had known at the time I would have widened the front wheel well for a bigger tire.
And who knows they ain't glued in yet. LOL
It's just a model so all is good.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *VW Bus #7 1/2 It's just about there.*
> 
> More wheels, their so small I should a used less tread but one set turned out ok.
> 
> 
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> 
> Then sand sand sand, you ain't never heard that before have you?





> Crowie when I got out of the army I left in a 1950 VW beetle with a convertible top, it had 36HP and would do like 60 if I remember right but with the top down it would only do 55, the drag of the open top really slowed it down but I had a ball in that car if you what to call it a car.
> 
> - htl


And when doing that 60mph if a truck passed going the other way the little VW Beetle would almost become airborn in the draft of the truck!!


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## ToyMakingDad

htl said:


> *VW Bus #7 1/2 It's just about there.*
> 
> More wheels, their so small I should a used less tread but one set turned out ok.
> 
> 
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> 
> Then sand sand sand, you ain't never heard that before have you?


Wow… any one of your tires is better than any whole toy I've ever made! Amazing craftsmanship. Super well done.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *VW Bus #7 1/2 It's just about there.*
> 
> More wheels, their so small I should a used less tread but one set turned out ok.
> 
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> 
> 
> Then sand sand sand, you ain't never heard that before have you?


HEY BRUCE i just found your next model :









pretty cool huh :<))


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## woodshaver

htl said:


> *VW Bus #7 1/2 It's just about there.*
> 
> More wheels, their so small I should a used less tread but one set turned out ok.
> 
> 
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> 
> Then sand sand sand, you ain't never heard that before have you?


Awesome work! Detail is great! Those tires make this bus come to life!


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## htl

*Building a VW Bus #8 Just a few things left to do*

This was a super fun build if it hadn't been so cold in the shop I might have added a few more things but Brrrrr!!!
Here's the project post.

How about HTL where the VW should be.
I've never personalized a model before.




































A ton a sanding later and.



















I hope you enjoyed this blog I'm sure enjoying watching Dutchy get er done.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus #8 Just a few things left to do*
> 
> This was a super fun build if it hadn't been so cold in the shop I might have added a few more things but Brrrrr!!!
> Here's the project post.
> 
> How about HTL where the VW should be.
> I've never personalized a model before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> A ton a sanding later and.
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you enjoyed this blog I'm sure enjoying watching Dutchy get er done.


I ENJOYED!!!!


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus #8 Just a few things left to do*
> 
> This was a super fun build if it hadn't been so cold in the shop I might have added a few more things but Brrrrr!!!
> Here's the project post.
> 
> How about HTL where the VW should be.
> I've never personalized a model before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> A ton a sanding later and.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you enjoyed this blog I'm sure enjoying watching Dutchy get er done.


Bruce, That is way cool as the youngin's would say,
BUT quote "never personalized a project"; sir your signature is all over all the beaut wood models I've seen come out of your shop,
whether it be detailing or design you do personalize each and everyone….
This lucky one just has your "handle/logo" front and centre and it's prefect…TOP JOB.
Maybe Dutchy will be asking for measurements to add it as a variation to his beautiful Kombi Camper.
The blog as usual was "first class", thank you for all the extra time & effort to share the "how I did it"...

Cheers, Peter


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## JulianLech

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus #8 Just a few things left to do*
> 
> This was a super fun build if it hadn't been so cold in the shop I might have added a few more things but Brrrrr!!!
> Here's the project post.
> 
> How about HTL where the VW should be.
> I've never personalized a model before.
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> I hope you enjoyed this blog I'm sure enjoying watching Dutchy get er done.


Looks great.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus #8 Just a few things left to do*
> 
> This was a super fun build if it hadn't been so cold in the shop I might have added a few more things but Brrrrr!!!
> Here's the project post.
> 
> How about HTL where the VW should be.
> I've never personalized a model before.
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> I hope you enjoyed this blog I'm sure enjoying watching Dutchy get er done.


*#4*, How'd you *circle* the front "*htl*"?


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## htl

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus #8 Just a few things left to do*
> 
> This was a super fun build if it hadn't been so cold in the shop I might have added a few more things but Brrrrr!!!
> Here's the project post.
> 
> How about HTL where the VW should be.
> I've never personalized a model before.
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> I hope you enjoyed this blog I'm sure enjoying watching Dutchy get er done.


Ducky all the parts are right there in the picture.

First I found a hole saw that would be a little larger than the hole I drilled in the nose.
I sanded it to fit the hole in the nose on the drum sanding jig.
Then you drill out the center but not all the way through.
Using a wood clamp to hold it on the not drilled end I cut off the end with the band saw and now have my out side O.
[The wood clamp will hold it down flat so you can then hold it up to the fence to cut.]
Next I had a plug from a wheel [in the picture] with a 1/4" center hole and put it on the drum sander jig and sanded it down to fit in the O and set the drum sander to stop there.
Next I Super glued the name tag to the shaped plug *on center* and sanded it to fit inside the O.
You now have all the parts to glue it up.
Hope that makes it clear as mud!


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus #8 Just a few things left to do*
> 
> This was a super fun build if it hadn't been so cold in the shop I might have added a few more things but Brrrrr!!!
> Here's the project post.
> 
> How about HTL where the VW should be.
> I've never personalized a model before.
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> I hope you enjoyed this blog I'm sure enjoying watching Dutchy get er done.


Ok, I've changed from a duck to a bat… blind one at that.



> ... all the parts are right there in the picture…
> - htl


 
where is the hole saw?
where is the sandpaper? Unless you used the Ryobi!
the drill bit must have rolled off the table.
wood clamp must have been taking a siesta!
I use invisible super glue too!

Thanks *#4,* now I can go and build my *adobe hut*.

Honestly, truly appreciated… but I didn't say that… bloody missus and that stick!


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## htl

htl said:


> *Building a VW Bus #8 Just a few things left to do*
> 
> This was a super fun build if it hadn't been so cold in the shop I might have added a few more things but Brrrrr!!!
> Here's the project post.
> 
> How about HTL where the VW should be.
> I've never personalized a model before.
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> I hope you enjoyed this blog I'm sure enjoying watching Dutchy get er done.


I wrote *parts* not tools to get er done. lol
Dutchy did the same thing in his blog but I just used the drum sander jig to get it really round, as my shaky hands wouldn't let me.


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## htl

*Building a Mack Dump Truck?*

Going to be using the plans for the Power Wagon [Mack] body and the bump box off one of Toys & Joys other trucks to make a mostly scratch built dump truck or maybe a wrecker, we'll see where the wood wants to go when I get that far.
Here's what got done today.




































I needed to build the body first because I extended the cab and didn't want to make the frame till I could see what was going to happen.




























The reason for the truck is to find a place for those wheels I made a while back.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Building a Mack Dump Truck?*
> 
> Going to be using the plans for the Power Wagon [Mack] body and the bump box off one of Toys & Joys other trucks to make a mostly scratch built dump truck or maybe a wrecker, we'll see where the wood wants to go when I get that far.
> Here's what got done today.
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> I needed to build the body first because I extended the cab and didn't want to make the frame till I could see what was going to happen.
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> The reason for the truck is to find a place for those wheels I made a while back.


Gonna look very kewl ..with them lines …:<))


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Building a Mack Dump Truck?*
> 
> Going to be using the plans for the Power Wagon [Mack] body and the bump box off one of Toys & Joys other trucks to make a mostly scratch built dump truck or maybe a wrecker, we'll see where the wood wants to go when I get that far.
> Here's what got done today.
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> I needed to build the body first because I extended the cab and didn't want to make the frame till I could see what was going to happen.
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> The reason for the truck is to find a place for those wheels I made a while back.


Hang on HANG ON; 
the saw dust hasn't settled in your shed from the VW Thing build and you're getting stuck into this one….


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Building a Mack Dump Truck?*
> 
> Going to be using the plans for the Power Wagon [Mack] body and the bump box off one of Toys & Joys other trucks to make a mostly scratch built dump truck or maybe a wrecker, we'll see where the wood wants to go when I get that far.
> Here's what got done today.
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> The reason for the truck is to find a place for those wheels I made a while back.


Damn *#4*... You churn out the vehicles faster than General Motors, Ford, and Fiat Chrysler (FCA US) combined.

Ever heard of those gimmicky things called brakes… Stewpud me… if you don't like mirrors… why should you consider* braking*... other than my chops and making me read more…
Did you sign up with the Blues Brothers… "*on a mission*"?


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## George_SA

htl said:


> *Building a Mack Dump Truck?*
> 
> Going to be using the plans for the Power Wagon [Mack] body and the bump box off one of Toys & Joys other trucks to make a mostly scratch built dump truck or maybe a wrecker, we'll see where the wood wants to go when I get that far.
> Here's what got done today.
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> I needed to build the body first because I extended the cab and didn't want to make the frame till I could see what was going to happen.
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> The reason for the truck is to find a place for those wheels I made a while back.


This looks interesting.


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## woodshaver

htl said:


> *Building a Mack Dump Truck?*
> 
> Going to be using the plans for the Power Wagon [Mack] body and the bump box off one of Toys & Joys other trucks to make a mostly scratch built dump truck or maybe a wrecker, we'll see where the wood wants to go when I get that far.
> Here's what got done today.
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> I needed to build the body first because I extended the cab and didn't want to make the frame till I could see what was going to happen.
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> The reason for the truck is to find a place for those wheels I made a while back.


Wait a minute… Another one so quick? Do you have an assembly line that your hiding from us? LOL!


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## Bushsbanjo

htl said:


> *Building a Mack Dump Truck?*
> 
> Going to be using the plans for the Power Wagon [Mack] body and the bump box off one of Toys & Joys other trucks to make a mostly scratch built dump truck or maybe a wrecker, we'll see where the wood wants to go when I get that far.
> Here's what got done today.
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> The reason for the truck is to find a place for those wheels I made a while back.


Very nice. I wished I could get my wheels and tires to look this good. Great work


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## htl

*Building the dump box*

Got some fine weather for Feb. so just had to get in the shop and make some saw dust.
This build is really going to be a mix of 3 different plans.
The Power wagon for the cab.
Dump truck #58 for the dump box.


And Gatto's Big Rig for the frame ideas

So here's what I got done today, there was more but got pulled away before any more picture could be taken.




































Had to cut a hole where the big hydraulic will go.










Got the trim made for the sides but that will have to be tomorrows pictures.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Building the dump box*
> 
> Got some fine weather for Feb. so just had to get in the shop and make some saw dust.
> This build is really going to be a mix of 3 different plans.
> The Power wagon for the cab.
> Dump truck #58 for the dump box.
> 
> 
> And Gatto's Big Rig for the frame ideas
> 
> So here's what I got done today, there was more but got pulled away before any more picture could be taken.
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> Got the trim made for the sides but that will have to be tomorrows pictures.


I don't know whether it's a scratch built or a plans built truck…

don't matter when class is in with a master is a work


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Building the dump box*
> 
> Got some fine weather for Feb. so just had to get in the shop and make some saw dust.
> This build is really going to be a mix of 3 different plans.
> The Power wagon for the cab.
> Dump truck #58 for the dump box.
> 
> 
> And Gatto's Big Rig for the frame ideas
> 
> So here's what I got done today, there was more but got pulled away before any more picture could be taken.
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> Got the trim made for the sides but that will have to be tomorrows pictures.


Good start.


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## htl

*Mack truck Dump box 2*

Took longer to get the dump box under control than I would have figured..

There's just something about the shape of this dump box, love the look of it and have wanted to build it for a long time.


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## Redoak49

htl said:


> *Mack truck Dump box 2*
> 
> Took longer to get the dump box under control than I would have figured..
> 
> There's just something about the shape of this dump box, love the look of it and have wanted to build it for a long time.


Nicely done….really like the shape.


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Mack truck Dump box 2*
> 
> Took longer to get the dump box under control than I would have figured..
> 
> There's just something about the shape of this dump box, love the look of it and have wanted to build it for a long time.


Thanks.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Mack truck Dump box 2*
> 
> Took longer to get the dump box under control than I would have figured..
> 
> There's just something about the shape of this dump box, love the look of it and have wanted to build it for a long time.


Now that's really looking like a Tipper Back or as you say a Dump Box…


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## htl

htl said:


> *Mack truck Dump box 2*
> 
> Took longer to get the dump box under control than I would have figured..
> 
> There's just something about the shape of this dump box, love the look of it and have wanted to build it for a long time.


Ducky get that there SPAM equipment in here!!!


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## jeffswildwood

htl said:


> *Mack truck Dump box 2*
> 
> Took longer to get the dump box under control than I would have figured..
> 
> There's just something about the shape of this dump box, love the look of it and have wanted to build it for a long time.


That is going to be a nice truck! Thanks for posting.


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## johnstoneb

htl said:


> *Mack truck Dump box 2*
> 
> Took longer to get the dump box under control than I would have figured..
> 
> There's just something about the shape of this dump box, love the look of it and have wanted to build it for a long time.


Good looking dump bed.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Mack truck Dump box 2*
> 
> Took longer to get the dump box under control than I would have figured..
> 
> There's just something about the shape of this dump box, love the look of it and have wanted to build it for a long time.


I have a feeling this is gonna be 1 kewl looking truck ….GREAT JOB :<))


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Mack truck Dump box 2*
> 
> Took longer to get the dump box under control than I would have figured..
> 
> There's just something about the shape of this dump box, love the look of it and have wanted to build it for a long time.





> Ducky get that there SPAM equipment in here!!!
> 
> - htl


Bruce, has Ducky flown the coop??


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## htl

htl said:


> *Mack truck Dump box 2*
> 
> Took longer to get the dump box under control than I would have figured..
> 
> There's just something about the shape of this dump box, love the look of it and have wanted to build it for a long time.


Ducky's to wild to be in a coop but he may have gone south for the winter. LOL


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Mack truck Dump box 2*
> 
> Took longer to get the dump box under control than I would have figured..
> 
> There's just something about the shape of this dump box, love the look of it and have wanted to build it for a long time.





> Ducky get that there SPAM equipment in here!!!
> 
> - htl


Had to work overtime for this one *#4*...










*PS.* The tragedy is that I had 6 cans of it at home!.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Mack truck Dump box 2*
> 
> Took longer to get the dump box under control than I would have figured..
> 
> There's just something about the shape of this dump box, love the look of it and have wanted to build it for a long time.


Looks like cricket got er done the spam is gone but we're ready for next time for sure .
Thanks cricket and ducky!!!


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Mack truck Dump box 2*
> 
> Took longer to get the dump box under control than I would have figured..
> 
> There's just something about the shape of this dump box, love the look of it and have wanted to build it for a long time.





> Looks like cricket got er done the spam is gone but we re ready for next time for sure .
> Thanks cricket and ducky!!!
> 
> - htl


I only roll out the SPAM movers… It's up to you guys to hold up the STOP sign.

I believe the "Flag" tag (nice ring to that), is the means of taking the law into your own hands…


> Bruce, has Ducky flown the coop??
> 
> - crowie


*crowie*, This duck stays put and only hides during duck hunting season… the missus has me on a very short chain… away from the hens…! No I don't cross breed… female ducks are also known as hens (not just chooks)... anyway who wants an old chook other than an old cock?


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## bushmaster

htl said:


> *Mack truck Dump box 2*
> 
> Took longer to get the dump box under control than I would have figured..
> 
> There's just something about the shape of this dump box, love the look of it and have wanted to build it for a long time.


Super craftsman ship, love making models but into other things this winter, and digging out from under the snow.


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## George_SA

htl said:


> *Mack truck Dump box 2*
> 
> Took longer to get the dump box under control than I would have figured..
> 
> There's just something about the shape of this dump box, love the look of it and have wanted to build it for a long time.


Looking GOOD. Coming along nicely


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## htl

*Mack Truck frame suspention and front wheel wells.*























































The axles are up side down.









Here's kinda the way I'll be doing the back end.
It will be a tad different because I'm going to try and add some leaf springs this time.


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Mack Truck frame suspention and front wheel wells.*
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> Here's kinda the way I'll be doing the back end.
> It will be a tad different because I'm going to try and add some leaf springs this time.


Looking Good. I like the Articulating Tandems.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Mack Truck frame suspention and front wheel wells.*
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> Here's kinda the way I'll be doing the back end.
> It will be a tad different because I'm going to try and add some leaf springs this time.


Stop showing those darned wheels *#4*... Keeps distracting me from the rest of the build.

*PS. * Such a complex suspension/transmission system will definitely need inspection *mirrors*...


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Mack Truck frame suspention and front wheel wells.*
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> Here's kinda the way I'll be doing the back end.
> It will be a tad different because I'm going to try and add some leaf springs this time.


Now that looks good Bruce,....


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Mack Truck frame suspention and front wheel wells.*
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> Here's kinda the way I'll be doing the back end.
> It will be a tad different because I'm going to try and add some leaf springs this time.


Love the rear axle.


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## johnstoneb

htl said:


> *Mack Truck frame suspention and front wheel wells.*
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> Here's kinda the way I'll be doing the back end.
> It will be a tad different because I'm going to try and add some leaf springs this time.


I will be watching the rear suspension. I need some ideas.


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## Dee1

htl said:


> *Mack Truck frame suspention and front wheel wells.*
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> It will be a tad different because I'm going to try and add some leaf springs this time.


Boy oh Boy I am liking this one very nice, have not done much lately as my lady has been in the hospital but just maybe I can find my way out to the shop with this inspiration. nice truck!
Dee1


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Mack Truck frame suspention and front wheel wells.*
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> Here's kinda the way I'll be doing the back end.
> It will be a tad different because I'm going to try and add some leaf springs this time.





> I will be watching the rear suspension. I need some ideas.
> 
> - johnstoneb


Everytime I say that… the missus gives me a clip on the back of my head!


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## htl

*Front and back suspension that works*

Front and back suspension that works on the Mack dump truck.
Rain rain go away so I'll stop hurting but didn't let the work stop.













































Up and Down




























Now for the front


















Up and down with the front end.


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## Redoak49

htl said:


> *Front and back suspension that works*
> 
> Front and back suspension that works on the Mack dump truck.
> Rain rain go away so I'll stop hurting but didn't let the work stop.
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I am truly impressed with this. Great work.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Front and back suspension that works*
> 
> Front and back suspension that works on the Mack dump truck.
> Rain rain go away so I'll stop hurting but didn't let the work stop.
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i have a feeling this gonna be 1 very kewl looking dump truck :<))


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Front and back suspension that works*
> 
> Front and back suspension that works on the Mack dump truck.
> Rain rain go away so I'll stop hurting but didn't let the work stop.
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Fantastic work!

Way past my skills and patience by miles!


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Front and back suspension that works*
> 
> Front and back suspension that works on the Mack dump truck.
> Rain rain go away so I'll stop hurting but didn't let the work stop.
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That's a clever working rear end Bruce and the front looks equally as good…top marks again sir…


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Front and back suspension that works*
> 
> Front and back suspension that works on the Mack dump truck.
> Rain rain go away so I'll stop hurting but didn't let the work stop.
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Impressive.


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## bushmaster

htl said:


> *Front and back suspension that works*
> 
> Front and back suspension that works on the Mack dump truck.
> Rain rain go away so I'll stop hurting but didn't let the work stop.
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Very well done, find your work very interesting.


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## HotRod1

htl said:


> *Front and back suspension that works*
> 
> Front and back suspension that works on the Mack dump truck.
> Rain rain go away so I'll stop hurting but didn't let the work stop.
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HTL, this may not be as cool on a work horse like yours, but here is the suspension for the truck I am working on now.


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## HotRod1

htl said:


> *Front and back suspension that works*
> 
> Front and back suspension that works on the Mack dump truck.
> Rain rain go away so I'll stop hurting but didn't let the work stop.
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Good looking dump truck.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Front and back suspension that works*
> 
> Front and back suspension that works on the Mack dump truck.
> Rain rain go away so I'll stop hurting but didn't let the work stop.
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Nice progress *#4*, but have the humble Shaker's been over run by door knocking magnet attracting Philistines in sunny Alabama?...


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Front and back suspension that works*
> 
> Front and back suspension that works on the Mack dump truck.
> Rain rain go away so I'll stop hurting but didn't let the work stop.
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> HTL, this may not be as cool on a work horse like yours, but here is the suspension for the truck I am working on now.
> 
> - HotRod1


That is a good wooden toy/scale model suspension innovation you've come up with "hotrod!"...
Would love to see some more details on it please!


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## htl

htl said:


> *Front and back suspension that works*
> 
> Front and back suspension that works on the Mack dump truck.
> Rain rain go away so I'll stop hurting but didn't let the work stop.
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HR#1 I like it!!! I like it!!!
As crowie said we sure would like to see some more of your project!!!


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## htl

htl said:


> *Front and back suspension that works*
> 
> Front and back suspension that works on the Mack dump truck.
> Rain rain go away so I'll stop hurting but didn't let the work stop.
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Ducky you better be putting on your metal shade protectors because using metal on my builds is looking more and more interesting.
And will sure make it a ton easier to fix the suspension if need be.
I may switch it over to HR#1's front end, been thinking about trying one of those but this came to together before I could plan one out.


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## HotRod1

htl said:


> *Front and back suspension that works*
> 
> Front and back suspension that works on the Mack dump truck.
> Rain rain go away so I'll stop hurting but didn't let the work stop.
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Crowie, I will send you some pics, Will be adding to the next blog soon. "New Peterbuilt".


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## HotRod1

htl said:


> *Front and back suspension that works*
> 
> Front and back suspension that works on the Mack dump truck.
> Rain rain go away so I'll stop hurting but didn't let the work stop.
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HTL, I have some ideas on making the front suspension, haven't had time to start it yet, trying to get the back finished and get the driveshafts finished first. May have to draw out the front to give you ideas to start with.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Front and back suspension that works*
> 
> Front and back suspension that works on the Mack dump truck.
> Rain rain go away so I'll stop hurting but didn't let the work stop.
> 
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Sounds interesting


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## HotRod1

htl said:


> *Front and back suspension that works*
> 
> Front and back suspension that works on the Mack dump truck.
> Rain rain go away so I'll stop hurting but didn't let the work stop.
> 
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HTL/Crowie, look at part 2 of "New Peterbilt" blog air bag suspension. I have some designs for the front, but have been limited on time to be in the shop.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Front and back suspension that works*
> 
> Front and back suspension that works on the Mack dump truck.
> Rain rain go away so I'll stop hurting but didn't let the work stop.
> 
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> HTL/Crowie, look at part 2 of "New Peterbilt" blog air bag suspension. I have some designs for the front, but have been limited on time to be in the shop.
> 
> - HotRod1


THANK YOU heaps sir, much appreciated!!


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## George_SA

htl said:


> *Front and back suspension that works*
> 
> Front and back suspension that works on the Mack dump truck.
> Rain rain go away so I'll stop hurting but didn't let the work stop.
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> 
> 
> Up and down with the front end.


Wow that is looking good


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## htl

*Nailing things down and front suspension*

I've been calling it a Mack but it looks a lot more like a Kenworth T880 Dump Truck to me so far.

Here's some better pictures of how I did the front suspension.
I will be adding a wood spacer on top of the spring to keep it in place.
But once the wheels are in place there shouldn't be much side ways movement.




































Then screwed down the dump box frame and the cab.

Then I used some dowels to hold the wheel wells in place till I was sure it would all work out.
Got thinking about some thing else while I was drilling the holes for the dowels and drilled the wrong side, but thankfully the wheel wells are to thick so will be cutting out the bugger.


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Nailing things down and front suspension*
> 
> I've been calling it a Mack but it looks a lot more like a Kenworth T880 Dump Truck to me so far.
> 
> Here's some better pictures of how I did the front suspension.
> I will be adding a wood spacer on top of the spring to keep it in place.
> But once the wheels are in place there shouldn't be much side ways movement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then screwed down the dump box frame and the cab.
> 
> Then I used some dowels to hold the wheel wells in place till I was sure it would all work out.
> Got thinking about some thing else while I was drilling the holes for the dowels and drilled the wrong side, but thankfully the wheel wells are to thick so will be cutting out the bugger.


Looking at the spring on the suspension, what's next Air ride suspension.(Looking good)


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Nailing things down and front suspension*
> 
> I've been calling it a Mack but it looks a lot more like a Kenworth T880 Dump Truck to me so far.
> 
> Here's some better pictures of how I did the front suspension.
> I will be adding a wood spacer on top of the spring to keep it in place.
> But once the wheels are in place there shouldn't be much side ways movement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then screwed down the dump box frame and the cab.
> 
> Then I used some dowels to hold the wheel wells in place till I was sure it would all work out.
> Got thinking about some thing else while I was drilling the holes for the dowels and drilled the wrong side, but thankfully the wheel wells are to thick so will be cutting out the bugger.


now you got his head humming …thinking what to use for airbags …LMAO …..YOU ARE INCREDIABLE :<))


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Nailing things down and front suspension*
> 
> I've been calling it a Mack but it looks a lot more like a Kenworth T880 Dump Truck to me so far.
> 
> Here's some better pictures of how I did the front suspension.
> I will be adding a wood spacer on top of the spring to keep it in place.
> But once the wheels are in place there shouldn't be much side ways movement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then screwed down the dump box frame and the cab.
> 
> Then I used some dowels to hold the wheel wells in place till I was sure it would all work out.
> Got thinking about some thing else while I was drilling the holes for the dowels and drilled the wrong side, but thankfully the wheel wells are to thick so will be cutting out the bugger.


Reading my mind is a dangerous place to go me thinks!!!


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Nailing things down and front suspension*
> 
> I've been calling it a Mack but it looks a lot more like a Kenworth T880 Dump Truck to me so far.
> 
> Here's some better pictures of how I did the front suspension.
> I will be adding a wood spacer on top of the spring to keep it in place.
> But once the wheels are in place there shouldn't be much side ways movement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then screwed down the dump box frame and the cab.
> 
> Then I used some dowels to hold the wheel wells in place till I was sure it would all work out.
> Got thinking about some thing else while I was drilling the holes for the dowels and drilled the wrong side, but thankfully the wheel wells are to thick so will be cutting out the bugger.


Innovation plus Bruce….


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Nailing things down and front suspension*
> 
> I've been calling it a Mack but it looks a lot more like a Kenworth T880 Dump Truck to me so far.
> 
> Here's some better pictures of how I did the front suspension.
> I will be adding a wood spacer on top of the spring to keep it in place.
> But once the wheels are in place there shouldn't be much side ways movement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then screwed down the dump box frame and the cab.
> 
> Then I used some dowels to hold the wheel wells in place till I was sure it would all work out.
> Got thinking about some thing else while I was drilling the holes for the dowels and drilled the wrong side, but thankfully the wheel wells are to thick so will be cutting out the bugger.


With a (metal) spring! I have done this by one of my Jeeps, and it is working very well. Later I have had a lot of fantasies about making a wooden spring, but never find a solution to do it that way. If you like springs in your cars I invite you to think with me about making wooden springs. I started 2 years ago


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## woodshaver

htl said:


> *Nailing things down and front suspension*
> 
> I've been calling it a Mack but it looks a lot more like a Kenworth T880 Dump Truck to me so far.
> 
> Here's some better pictures of how I did the front suspension.
> I will be adding a wood spacer on top of the spring to keep it in place.
> But once the wheels are in place there shouldn't be much side ways movement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then screwed down the dump box frame and the cab.
> 
> Then I used some dowels to hold the wheel wells in place till I was sure it would all work out.
> Got thinking about some thing else while I was drilling the holes for the dowels and drilled the wrong side, but thankfully the wheel wells are to thick so will be cutting out the bugger.


You bring the kid out in me looking at all this neat stuff. Awesome work!


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## htl

*All the main parts are now mounted.*

Cut and sanded out the dowel holes in the wrong place.
Before









After









Also made a cab guard, I have no idea what it's really called.









Some shots with a different set a tires.




























Last I tried out a front bumper.


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## Budster

htl said:


> *All the main parts are now mounted.*
> 
> Cut and sanded out the dowel holes in the wrong place.
> Before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Also made a cab guard, I have no idea what it's really called.
> 
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> 
> Some shots with a different set a tires.
> 
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> Last I tried out a front bumper.


Htl did you say you got this plan from Toys and Joys?


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *All the main parts are now mounted.*
> 
> Cut and sanded out the dowel holes in the wrong place.
> Before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also made a cab guard, I have no idea what it's really called.
> 
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> 
> Some shots with a different set a tires.
> 
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> 
> Last I tried out a front bumper.





> Also made a *cab guard*, I have no idea what it's really called.


You probably should call it a *cab guard*.


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## htl

htl said:


> *All the main parts are now mounted.*
> 
> Cut and sanded out the dowel holes in the wrong place.
> Before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also made a cab guard, I have no idea what it's really called.
> 
> 
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> 
> Some shots with a different set a tires.
> 
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> Last I tried out a front bumper.


Orvile This is a mix of 3 different plans, go to the first post of this build and I put links to them all.

Ducky it could be a cabin guard, a rock stopper, a mud shield,, but I think the *bonnet* sounds about right to me. LOL


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## George_SA

htl said:


> *All the main parts are now mounted.*
> 
> Cut and sanded out the dowel holes in the wrong place.
> Before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also made a cab guard, I have no idea what it's really called.
> 
> 
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> 
> Some shots with a different set a tires.
> 
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> 
> Last I tried out a front bumper.


This is starting to look really nice


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## crowie

htl said:


> *All the main parts are now mounted.*
> 
> Cut and sanded out the dowel holes in the wrong place.
> Before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also made a cab guard, I have no idea what it's really called.
> 
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> 
> Some shots with a different set a tires.
> 
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> 
> Last I tried out a front bumper.


Yes looking good Bruce.

PS - Bonnet is Aussie for what you call the hood.


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *All the main parts are now mounted.*
> 
> Cut and sanded out the dowel holes in the wrong place.
> Before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also made a cab guard, I have no idea what it's really called.
> 
> 
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> 
> Some shots with a different set a tires.
> 
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> Last I tried out a front bumper.


Tough cart.


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *All the main parts are now mounted.*
> 
> Cut and sanded out the dowel holes in the wrong place.
> Before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also made a cab guard, I have no idea what it's really called.
> 
> 
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> 
> Some shots with a different set a tires.
> 
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> Last I tried out a front bumper.





> This is starting to look really nice
> - George_SA


Even without mirrors!


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## htl

*Just about there with the Mack.*

If I add front wheel drive does that make this a 6 wheeler or a ten?









The drive shaft follows the Differential on both the front and back.


























































































As I said just about there.

Here's the finished project.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Just about there with the Mack.*
> 
> If I add front wheel drive does that make this a 6 wheeler or a ten?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drive shaft follows the Differential on both the front and back.
> 
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> 
> As I said just about there.
> 
> Here's the finished project.


i knew this would be a super dump …LOOKS GOOD :<))


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## htl

htl said:


> *Just about there with the Mack.*
> 
> If I add front wheel drive does that make this a 6 wheeler or a ten?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drive shaft follows the Differential on both the front and back.
> 
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> 
> As I said just about there.
> 
> Here's the finished project.


My goodness all this work just to use up some wheels!!! lol


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## chief101

htl said:


> *Just about there with the Mack.*
> 
> If I add front wheel drive does that make this a 6 wheeler or a ten?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drive shaft follows the Differential on both the front and back.
> 
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> 
> As I said just about there.
> 
> Here's the finished project.


Wow awesome job.


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## sras

htl said:


> *Just about there with the Mack.*
> 
> If I add front wheel drive does that make this a 6 wheeler or a ten?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drive shaft follows the Differential on both the front and back.
> 
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> 
> As I said just about there.
> 
> Here's the finished project.


That's a 10 wheeler for sure!


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Just about there with the Mack.*
> 
> If I add front wheel drive does that make this a 6 wheeler or a ten?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drive shaft follows the Differential on both the front and back.
> 
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> 
> As I said just about there.
> 
> Here's the finished project.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Just about there with the Mack.*
> 
> If I add front wheel drive does that make this a 6 wheeler or a ten?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drive shaft follows the Differential on both the front and back.
> 
> 
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> 
> As I said just about there.
> 
> Here's the finished project.


I just found out that Toys and Joys has their new models out. COOL!!!


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## jeffswildwood

htl said:


> *Just about there with the Mack.*
> 
> If I add front wheel drive does that make this a 6 wheeler or a ten?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drive shaft follows the Differential on both the front and back.
> 
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> 
> As I said just about there.
> 
> Here's the finished project.


Very nice. Your work is so good! An inspiration for me to try one!


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Just about there with the Mack.*
> 
> If I add front wheel drive does that make this a 6 wheeler or a ten?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drive shaft follows the Differential on both the front and back.
> 
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> 
> As I said just about there.
> 
> Here's the finished project.


Mighty fie work, Dandy truck.


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## johnstoneb

htl said:


> *Just about there with the Mack.*
> 
> If I add front wheel drive does that make this a 6 wheeler or a ten?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drive shaft follows the Differential on both the front and back.
> 
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> 
> As I said just about there.
> 
> Here's the finished project.


Great idea adding the front wheel drive


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## George_SA

htl said:


> *Just about there with the Mack.*
> 
> If I add front wheel drive does that make this a 6 wheeler or a ten?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drive shaft follows the Differential on both the front and back.
> 
> 
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> Here's the finished project.


Excellent !!!!!


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Just about there with the Mack.*
> 
> If I add front wheel drive does that make this a 6 wheeler or a ten?
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> As I said just about there.
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> Here's the finished project.


The truck will be hauling in no time, top job Bruce.


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## htl

*Gatto Reading train build #1*

Well it's time for another train, and going with a different company Gatto which has a little different way of handling the plan details as there are a ton of them and their projects at least the one's I've seen have motors and shocks just a lot more parts to add if you want to.

1949 Reading Steam Freight Locomotive

I should add and Ducky complains about all the reading needed for their plans but they do help and add some great tips to help you get er done.

Here's the Reading train page.


bj383ss has both a project and blog on this train so check out his beauty.

Took a day o glue up and turn the boiler and then got started on all the little bitty parts and there are a ton of them.
If I had realized how small some of the parts were I might have had second thoughts but it's to late now. LOL





































If I was ever to build another one I would *make the main frame member in one slab* of wood instead of having it needing to be glued together with a chance of it not coming out straight, just a tip to someone thinking of making one.




























It was fun playing on the lathe so I might just try my hand at some turning ya right!!!


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## Budster

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build #1*
> 
> Well it's time for another train, and going with a different company Gatto which has a little different way of handling the plan details as there are a ton of them and their projects at least the one's I've seen have motors and shocks just a lot more parts to add if you want to.
> 
> 1949 Reading Steam Freight Locomotive
> 
> I should add and Ducky complains about all the reading needed for their plans but they do help and add some great tips to help you get er done.
> 
> Here's the Reading train page.
> 
> 
> bj383ss has both a project and blog on this train so check out his beauty.
> 
> Took a day o glue up and turn the boiler and then got started on all the little bitty parts and there are a ton of them.
> If I had realized how small some of the parts were I might have had second thoughts but it's to late now. LOL
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> If I was ever to build another one I would *make the main frame member in one slab* of wood instead of having it needing to be glued together with a chance of it not coming out straight, just a tip to someone thinking of making one.
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> It was fun playing on the lathe so I might just try my hand at some turning ya right!!!


I have some Gatto plans and like the details. Looks like you have a real good start on what I will bet will be a great train.


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build #1*
> 
> Well it's time for another train, and going with a different company Gatto which has a little different way of handling the plan details as there are a ton of them and their projects at least the one's I've seen have motors and shocks just a lot more parts to add if you want to.
> 
> 1949 Reading Steam Freight Locomotive
> 
> I should add and Ducky complains about all the reading needed for their plans but they do help and add some great tips to help you get er done.
> 
> Here's the Reading train page.
> 
> 
> bj383ss has both a project and blog on this train so check out his beauty.
> 
> Took a day o glue up and turn the boiler and then got started on all the little bitty parts and there are a ton of them.
> If I had realized how small some of the parts were I might have had second thoughts but it's to late now. LOL
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> If I was ever to build another one I would *make the main frame member in one slab* of wood instead of having it needing to be glued together with a chance of it not coming out straight, just a tip to someone thinking of making one.
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> It was fun playing on the lathe so I might just try my hand at some turning ya right!!!


It looks like it is going to be outstanding!


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build #1*
> 
> Well it's time for another train, and going with a different company Gatto which has a little different way of handling the plan details as there are a ton of them and their projects at least the one's I've seen have motors and shocks just a lot more parts to add if you want to.
> 
> 1949 Reading Steam Freight Locomotive
> 
> I should add and Ducky complains about all the reading needed for their plans but they do help and add some great tips to help you get er done.
> 
> Here's the Reading train page.
> 
> 
> bj383ss has both a project and blog on this train so check out his beauty.
> 
> Took a day o glue up and turn the boiler and then got started on all the little bitty parts and there are a ton of them.
> If I had realized how small some of the parts were I might have had second thoughts but it's to late now. LOL
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> If I was ever to build another one I would *make the main frame member in one slab* of wood instead of having it needing to be glued together with a chance of it not coming out straight, just a tip to someone thinking of making one.
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> It was fun playing on the lathe so I might just try my hand at some turning ya right!!!


There we go again. I am just in time to step in. What's the destination?


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build #1*
> 
> Well it's time for another train, and going with a different company Gatto which has a little different way of handling the plan details as there are a ton of them and their projects at least the one's I've seen have motors and shocks just a lot more parts to add if you want to.
> 
> 1949 Reading Steam Freight Locomotive
> 
> I should add and Ducky complains about all the reading needed for their plans but they do help and add some great tips to help you get er done.
> 
> Here's the Reading train page.
> 
> 
> bj383ss has both a project and blog on this train so check out his beauty.
> 
> Took a day o glue up and turn the boiler and then got started on all the little bitty parts and there are a ton of them.
> If I had realized how small some of the parts were I might have had second thoughts but it's to late now. LOL
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> If I was ever to build another one I would *make the main frame member in one slab* of wood instead of having it needing to be glued together with a chance of it not coming out straight, just a tip to someone thinking of making one.
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> It was fun playing on the lathe so I might just try my hand at some turning ya right!!!


Golly I nearly missed this train that's already getting a head of steam up….looking good Bruce!!


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## darkmyble

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build #1*
> 
> Well it's time for another train, and going with a different company Gatto which has a little different way of handling the plan details as there are a ton of them and their projects at least the one's I've seen have motors and shocks just a lot more parts to add if you want to.
> 
> 1949 Reading Steam Freight Locomotive
> 
> I should add and Ducky complains about all the reading needed for their plans but they do help and add some great tips to help you get er done.
> 
> Here's the Reading train page.
> 
> 
> bj383ss has both a project and blog on this train so check out his beauty.
> 
> Took a day o glue up and turn the boiler and then got started on all the little bitty parts and there are a ton of them.
> If I had realized how small some of the parts were I might have had second thoughts but it's to late now. LOL
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> If I was ever to build another one I would *make the main frame member in one slab* of wood instead of having it needing to be glued together with a chance of it not coming out straight, just a tip to someone thinking of making one.
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> It was fun playing on the lathe so I might just try my hand at some turning ya right!!!


Excellent work.. You're very lucky, I've been trying to get Gatto plans for ages. Tried contacting them, even had an American friend phone them for details on posting to the UK.. I got an email address and sent an email.. No response. My only option is to write now.. 
Theres no option to post to the UK.. which happens quite a lot. I'll persevere. I look forward to seeing progress..


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build #1*
> 
> Well it's time for another train, and going with a different company Gatto which has a little different way of handling the plan details as there are a ton of them and their projects at least the one's I've seen have motors and shocks just a lot more parts to add if you want to.
> 
> 1949 Reading Steam Freight Locomotive
> 
> I should add and Ducky complains about all the reading needed for their plans but they do help and add some great tips to help you get er done.
> 
> Here's the Reading train page.
> 
> 
> bj383ss has both a project and blog on this train so check out his beauty.
> 
> Took a day o glue up and turn the boiler and then got started on all the little bitty parts and there are a ton of them.
> If I had realized how small some of the parts were I might have had second thoughts but it's to late now. LOL
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> If I was ever to build another one I would *make the main frame member in one slab* of wood instead of having it needing to be glued together with a chance of it not coming out straight, just a tip to someone thinking of making one.
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hi Bruce ,Are you going full scale on this one …or shrinking it down ?



> Excellent work.. You re very lucky, I ve been trying to get Gatto plans for ages. Tried contacting them, even had an American friend phone them for details on posting to the UK.. I got an email address and sent an email.. No response. My only option is to write now..
> Theres no option to post to the UK.. which happens quite a lot. I ll persevere. I look forward to seeing progress..
> 
> - darkmyble


1 more option for you….. tell me what you want to order…... i can get it and mail it to you :<))


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## htl

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build #1*
> 
> Well it's time for another train, and going with a different company Gatto which has a little different way of handling the plan details as there are a ton of them and their projects at least the one's I've seen have motors and shocks just a lot more parts to add if you want to.
> 
> 1949 Reading Steam Freight Locomotive
> 
> I should add and Ducky complains about all the reading needed for their plans but they do help and add some great tips to help you get er done.
> 
> Here's the Reading train page.
> 
> 
> bj383ss has both a project and blog on this train so check out his beauty.
> 
> Took a day o glue up and turn the boiler and then got started on all the little bitty parts and there are a ton of them.
> If I had realized how small some of the parts were I might have had second thoughts but it's to late now. LOL
> 
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> It was fun playing on the lathe so I might just try my hand at some turning ya right!!!


GR8 No need to shrink it down as the parts are already way small.
It's just the right size for the length, it is one long train.
Just the boiler is over 14" long.
I was hoping the tracks would match the Toys and Joys train so my other cars would work with it but the Gatto uses a narrower track.


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## htl

*Gatto Reading train build #3 cab & roof*

Got a little more done.
Getting the cab and boiler and all the other things to match up is quite interesting work.
Busted my band saw blade and waiting on a new one so having to do some creative building to work around this time saver.































































I'm sure there are better ways to build this train but all I can say is this seems to be working so far. lol


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build #3 cab & roof*
> 
> Got a little more done.
> Getting the cab and boiler and all the other things to match up is quite interesting work.
> Busted my band saw blade and waiting on a new one so having to do some creative building to work around this time saver.
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> I'm sure there are better ways to build this train but all I can say is this seems to be working so far. lol


gonna be 1 huge train …looks good so far :<))


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build #3 cab & roof*
> 
> Got a little more done.
> Getting the cab and boiler and all the other things to match up is quite interesting work.
> Busted my band saw blade and waiting on a new one so having to do some creative building to work around this time saver.
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> I'm sure there are better ways to build this train but all I can say is this seems to be working so far. lol


My oh my Bruce, it's really taking shape quickly.


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## Budster

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build #3 cab & roof*
> 
> Got a little more done.
> Getting the cab and boiler and all the other things to match up is quite interesting work.
> Busted my band saw blade and waiting on a new one so having to do some creative building to work around this time saver.
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> I'm sure there are better ways to build this train but all I can say is this seems to be working so far. lol


As always , LOOKING GOOD htl.


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build #3 cab & roof*
> 
> Got a little more done.
> Getting the cab and boiler and all the other things to match up is quite interesting work.
> Busted my band saw blade and waiting on a new one so having to do some creative building to work around this time saver.
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> I'm sure there are better ways to build this train but all I can say is this seems to be working so far. lol


I thought trains in the past where slow.


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## johnstoneb

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build #3 cab & roof*
> 
> Got a little more done.
> Getting the cab and boiler and all the other things to match up is quite interesting work.
> Busted my band saw blade and waiting on a new one so having to do some creative building to work around this time saver.
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> I'm sure there are better ways to build this train but all I can say is this seems to be working so far. lol


I'm interested keep up the blog. Looks good so fazr.


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## bushmaster

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build #3 cab & roof*
> 
> Got a little more done.
> Getting the cab and boiler and all the other things to match up is quite interesting work.
> Busted my band saw blade and waiting on a new one so having to do some creative building to work around this time saver.
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> I'm sure there are better ways to build this train but all I can say is this seems to be working so far. lol


nice, interested in this one for sure, like old trains.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build #3 cab & roof*
> 
> Got a little more done.
> Getting the cab and boiler and all the other things to match up is quite interesting work.
> Busted my band saw blade and waiting on a new one so having to do some creative building to work around this time saver.
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> I'm sure there are better ways to build this train but all I can say is this seems to be working so far. lol


Thank guys for the comments I was beginning to think train were out. lol


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## htl

*Reading Train Got the boiler under control to day. #4 1/2*

This build has an unbelievable amount of very small parts I could see building this at twice the plans size and this would really be a fun project..

Drilled all the holes for the boiler, all kinds of valves and hand rail holes to get just right.









Made a quick jig to hold the boiler while I set everything up and got er drilled.
This made it quite easy to put all the markings in place to drill.









Then start putting it all together.


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## DavePolaschek

htl said:


> *Reading Train Got the boiler under control to day. #4 1/2*
> 
> This build has an unbelievable amount of very small parts I could see building this at twice the plans size and this would really be a fun project..
> 
> Drilled all the holes for the boiler, all kinds of valves and hand rail holes to get just right.
> 
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> Made a quick jig to hold the boiler while I set everything up and got er drilled.
> This made it quite easy to put all the markings in place to drill.
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> Then start putting it all together.


That's going to be a good looking engine. How many other cars do you plan to make for your train?


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## Kelster58

htl said:


> *Reading Train Got the boiler under control to day. #4 1/2*
> 
> This build has an unbelievable amount of very small parts I could see building this at twice the plans size and this would really be a fun project..
> 
> Drilled all the holes for the boiler, all kinds of valves and hand rail holes to get just right.
> 
> 
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> Made a quick jig to hold the boiler while I set everything up and got er drilled.
> This made it quite easy to put all the markings in place to drill.
> 
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> Then start putting it all together.


That is really cool!!! GREAT job!!


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Reading Train Got the boiler under control to day. #4 1/2*
> 
> This build has an unbelievable amount of very small parts I could see building this at twice the plans size and this would really be a fun project..
> 
> Drilled all the holes for the boiler, all kinds of valves and hand rail holes to get just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made a quick jig to hold the boiler while I set everything up and got er drilled.
> This made it quite easy to put all the markings in place to drill.
> 
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> Then start putting it all together.


Waiting to see the finished project! LOOKING GREAT so far.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Reading Train Got the boiler under control to day. #4 1/2*
> 
> This build has an unbelievable amount of very small parts I could see building this at twice the plans size and this would really be a fun project..
> 
> Drilled all the holes for the boiler, all kinds of valves and hand rail holes to get just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made a quick jig to hold the boiler while I set everything up and got er drilled.
> This made it quite easy to put all the markings in place to drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then start putting it all together.


Dave I'll be sure to make the tender and my first train has has 4 cars and my 2st one has 3.
You can see them all in my projects page.
I was hoping my Toys & Joys cars would work with it but this train uses narrower track.
I have a love for building cattle cars so may scratch build one of those but the better half may get wind of it and start giving away my toys so we'll see. lol


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Reading Train Got the boiler under control to day. #4 1/2*
> 
> This build has an unbelievable amount of very small parts I could see building this at twice the plans size and this would really be a fun project..
> 
> Drilled all the holes for the boiler, all kinds of valves and hand rail holes to get just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made a quick jig to hold the boiler while I set everything up and got er drilled.
> This made it quite easy to put all the markings in place to drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then start putting it all together.


Oh Yes, That's a top jig…very clever Bruce!!


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Reading Train Got the boiler under control to day. #4 1/2*
> 
> This build has an unbelievable amount of very small parts I could see building this at twice the plans size and this would really be a fun project..
> 
> Drilled all the holes for the boiler, all kinds of valves and hand rail holes to get just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made a quick jig to hold the boiler while I set everything up and got er drilled.
> This made it quite easy to put all the markings in place to drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then start putting it all together.


A lot of parts for you htl, but don't count., because a lot of (small) parts will make a great looking train.


----------



## bushmaster

htl said:


> *Reading Train Got the boiler under control to day. #4 1/2*
> 
> This build has an unbelievable amount of very small parts I could see building this at twice the plans size and this would really be a fun project..
> 
> Drilled all the holes for the boiler, all kinds of valves and hand rail holes to get just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made a quick jig to hold the boiler while I set everything up and got er drilled.
> This made it quite easy to put all the markings in place to drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then start putting it all together.


Looking great, yesterday when I turned the computer on there was a fellow featured at the top that made extremely detailed toys, one was of a Locomotive with two sets of drivers, last post was 2012, wonder if he is still with us. Now I can't find that page. Did you see it and are you acquainted with him.


----------



## stefang

htl said:


> *Reading Train Got the boiler under control to day. #4 1/2*
> 
> This build has an unbelievable amount of very small parts I could see building this at twice the plans size and this would really be a fun project..
> 
> Drilled all the holes for the boiler, all kinds of valves and hand rail holes to get just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made a quick jig to hold the boiler while I set everything up and got er drilled.
> This made it quite easy to put all the markings in place to drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then start putting it all together.


Looks very cool!


----------



## George_SA

htl said:


> *Reading Train Got the boiler under control to day. #4 1/2*
> 
> This build has an unbelievable amount of very small parts I could see building this at twice the plans size and this would really be a fun project..
> 
> Drilled all the holes for the boiler, all kinds of valves and hand rail holes to get just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made a quick jig to hold the boiler while I set everything up and got er drilled.
> This made it quite easy to put all the markings in place to drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then start putting it all together.


Looking Good


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Reading Train Got the boiler under control to day. #4 1/2*
> 
> This build has an unbelievable amount of very small parts I could see building this at twice the plans size and this would really be a fun project..
> 
> Drilled all the holes for the boiler, all kinds of valves and hand rail holes to get just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made a quick jig to hold the boiler while I set everything up and got er drilled.
> This made it quite easy to put all the markings in place to drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then start putting it all together.





> Looking great, yesterday when I turned the computer on there was a fellow featured at the top that made extremely detailed toys, one was of a Locomotive with two sets of drivers, last post was 2012, wonder if he is still with us. Now I can t find that page. Did you see it and are you acquainted with him.
> 
> - bushmaster


Bushy I was just rereading some posts and found this, and no I have not noticed this Locomotive with two drivers.
Sounds very interesting.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Reading Train Got the boiler under control to day. #4 1/2*
> 
> This build has an unbelievable amount of very small parts I could see building this at twice the plans size and this would really be a fun project..
> 
> Drilled all the holes for the boiler, all kinds of valves and hand rail holes to get just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made a quick jig to hold the boiler while I set everything up and got er drilled.
> This made it quite easy to put all the markings in place to drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then start putting it all together.


thought you might love this video #4 




 :<)))))


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Reading Train Got the boiler under control to day. #4 1/2*
> 
> This build has an unbelievable amount of very small parts I could see building this at twice the plans size and this would really be a fun project..
> 
> Drilled all the holes for the boiler, all kinds of valves and hand rail holes to get just right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made a quick jig to hold the boiler while I set everything up and got er drilled.
> This made it quite easy to put all the markings in place to drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then start putting it all together.


Bushy here's the post I mean


----------



## htl

*Main build just about there #5 1/2*

After being in the Hospital for 5 days with a leg infection that has been slowing me way down, I'm back!!!

And man have I been itching to get back at it.
The main train parts are pretty close to being done, after a Dr. visit tomorrow the wheels will get a looking at.





































I've been on the out look for a small glue bottle as all from HD and Lowe's are way big, then it hit me I've been throwing away the best free bottles, just what I was needing, the used up Gorilla Super glue bottles!!!









May be able to use more wood glue now that I got something that gives me just the right amount.

This is a maple and walnut build, with a touch a oak.


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Main build just about there #5 1/2*
> 
> After being in the Hospital for 5 days with a leg infection that has been slowing me way down, I'm back!!!
> 
> And man have I been itching to get back at it.
> The main train parts are pretty close to being done, after a Dr. visit tomorrow the wheels will get a looking at.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been on the out look for a small glue bottle as all from HD and Lowe's are way big, then it hit me I've been throwing away the best free bottles, just what I was needing, the used up Gorilla Super glue bottles!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> May be able to use more wood glue now that I got something that gives me just the right amount.
> 
> This is a maple and walnut build, with a touch a oak.


Looking good, I am glad you are out and about.


----------



## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Main build just about there #5 1/2*
> 
> After being in the Hospital for 5 days with a leg infection that has been slowing me way down, I'm back!!!
> 
> And man have I been itching to get back at it.
> The main train parts are pretty close to being done, after a Dr. visit tomorrow the wheels will get a looking at.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been on the out look for a small glue bottle as all from HD and Lowe's are way big, then it hit me I've been throwing away the best free bottles, just what I was needing, the used up Gorilla Super glue bottles!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> May be able to use more wood glue now that I got something that gives me just the right amount.
> 
> This is a maple and walnut build, with a touch a oak.


Looking great!

Keep going!


----------



## SouthavenToyMaker

htl said:


> *Main build just about there #5 1/2*
> 
> After being in the Hospital for 5 days with a leg infection that has been slowing me way down, I'm back!!!
> 
> And man have I been itching to get back at it.
> The main train parts are pretty close to being done, after a Dr. visit tomorrow the wheels will get a looking at.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been on the out look for a small glue bottle as all from HD and Lowe's are way big, then it hit me I've been throwing away the best free bottles, just what I was needing, the used up Gorilla Super glue bottles!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> May be able to use more wood glue now that I got something that gives me just the right amount.
> 
> This is a maple and walnut build, with a touch a oak.


awesome idea with the glue bottles…...Engine is looking great.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Main build just about there #5 1/2*
> 
> After being in the Hospital for 5 days with a leg infection that has been slowing me way down, I'm back!!!
> 
> And man have I been itching to get back at it.
> The main train parts are pretty close to being done, after a Dr. visit tomorrow the wheels will get a looking at.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been on the out look for a small glue bottle as all from HD and Lowe's are way big, then it hit me I've been throwing away the best free bottles, just what I was needing, the used up Gorilla Super glue bottles!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> May be able to use more wood glue now that I got something that gives me just the right amount.
> 
> This is a maple and walnut build, with a touch a oak.


Super glue, super model, super build. Well done, super htl.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Main build just about there #5 1/2*
> 
> After being in the Hospital for 5 days with a leg infection that has been slowing me way down, I'm back!!!
> 
> And man have I been itching to get back at it.
> The main train parts are pretty close to being done, after a Dr. visit tomorrow the wheels will get a looking at.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been on the out look for a small glue bottle as all from HD and Lowe's are way big, then it hit me I've been throwing away the best free bottles, just what I was needing, the used up Gorilla Super glue bottles!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> May be able to use more wood glue now that I got something that gives me just the right amount.
> 
> This is a maple and walnut build, with a touch a oak.





> Super glue, super model, super build. Well done, super htl.
> 
> - Dutchy


Now Dutchy you took the words out of my mouth.


----------



## Redoak49

htl said:


> *Main build just about there #5 1/2*
> 
> After being in the Hospital for 5 days with a leg infection that has been slowing me way down, I'm back!!!
> 
> And man have I been itching to get back at it.
> The main train parts are pretty close to being done, after a Dr. visit tomorrow the wheels will get a looking at.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been on the out look for a small glue bottle as all from HD and Lowe's are way big, then it hit me I've been throwing away the best free bottles, just what I was needing, the used up Gorilla Super glue bottles!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> May be able to use more wood glue now that I got something that gives me just the right amount.
> 
> This is a maple and walnut build, with a touch a oak.


This is really starting to look great. Glad you are doing better.


----------



## Dee1

htl said:


> *Main build just about there #5 1/2*
> 
> After being in the Hospital for 5 days with a leg infection that has been slowing me way down, I'm back!!!
> 
> And man have I been itching to get back at it.
> The main train parts are pretty close to being done, after a Dr. visit tomorrow the wheels will get a looking at.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been on the out look for a small glue bottle as all from HD and Lowe's are way big, then it hit me I've been throwing away the best free bottles, just what I was needing, the used up Gorilla Super glue bottles!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> May be able to use more wood glue now that I got something that gives me just the right amount.
> 
> This is a maple and walnut build, with a touch a oak.


Sorry to hear you were down, train is looking fantastic?
Dee1


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Main build just about there #5 1/2*
> 
> After being in the Hospital for 5 days with a leg infection that has been slowing me way down, I'm back!!!
> 
> And man have I been itching to get back at it.
> The main train parts are pretty close to being done, after a Dr. visit tomorrow the wheels will get a looking at.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been on the out look for a small glue bottle as all from HD and Lowe's are way big, then it hit me I've been throwing away the best free bottles, just what I was needing, the used up Gorilla Super glue bottles!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> May be able to use more wood glue now that I got something that gives me just the right amount.
> 
> This is a maple and walnut build, with a touch a oak.


i was wondering about you Bruce …i figured something was wrong …then i was wondering if your better half had beaten you down with this train …. LOL ….LOOKING GOOD :<))


----------



## stefang

htl said:


> *Main build just about there #5 1/2*
> 
> After being in the Hospital for 5 days with a leg infection that has been slowing me way down, I'm back!!!
> 
> And man have I been itching to get back at it.
> The main train parts are pretty close to being done, after a Dr. visit tomorrow the wheels will get a looking at.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been on the out look for a small glue bottle as all from HD and Lowe's are way big, then it hit me I've been throwing away the best free bottles, just what I was needing, the used up Gorilla Super glue bottles!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> May be able to use more wood glue now that I got something that gives me just the right amount.
> 
> This is a maple and walnut build, with a touch a oak.


Looks wonderful. Hope you have a speedy recovery.


----------



## bushmaster

htl said:


> *Main build just about there #5 1/2*
> 
> After being in the Hospital for 5 days with a leg infection that has been slowing me way down, I'm back!!!
> 
> And man have I been itching to get back at it.
> The main train parts are pretty close to being done, after a Dr. visit tomorrow the wheels will get a looking at.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been on the out look for a small glue bottle as all from HD and Lowe's are way big, then it hit me I've been throwing away the best free bottles, just what I was needing, the used up Gorilla Super glue bottles!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> May be able to use more wood glue now that I got something that gives me just the right amount.
> 
> This is a maple and walnut build, with a touch a oak.


Looking better with every post.


----------



## htl

*Gatto Reading Train Building The Wheels #7*

Been working on the wheels the last two days and not to sad their about done.









The indexing jig came in quite handy for this operation, saved me a ton a figuring, just use every third hole and you got it just right.
I needed 12 holes and the indexer had 36 so it works out just right.


----------



## Redoak49

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading Train Building The Wheels #7*
> 
> Been working on the wheels the last two days and not to sad their about done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The indexing jig came in quite handy for this operation, saved me a ton a figuring, just use every third hole and you got it just right.
> I needed 12 holes and the indexer had 36 so it works out just right.


Nice wheels and I like seeing the jigs and techniques used to make them.


----------



## bushmaster

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading Train Building The Wheels #7*
> 
> Been working on the wheels the last two days and not to sad their about done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The indexing jig came in quite handy for this operation, saved me a ton a figuring, just use every third hole and you got it just right.
> I needed 12 holes and the indexer had 36 so it works out just right.


exciting. Jig is working great.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading Train Building The Wheels #7*
> 
> Been working on the wheels the last two days and not to sad their about done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The indexing jig came in quite handy for this operation, saved me a ton a figuring, just use every third hole and you got it just right.
> I needed 12 holes and the indexer had 36 so it works out just right.


clever jig Bruce…


----------



## toyguy

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading Train Building The Wheels #7*
> 
> Been working on the wheels the last two days and not to sad their about done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The indexing jig came in quite handy for this operation, saved me a ton a figuring, just use every third hole and you got it just right.
> I needed 12 holes and the indexer had 36 so it works out just right.


Looks great. The jig is very well designed.


----------



## Budster

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading Train Building The Wheels #7*
> 
> Been working on the wheels the last two days and not to sad their about done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The indexing jig came in quite handy for this operation, saved me a ton a figuring, just use every third hole and you got it just right.
> I needed 12 holes and the indexer had 36 so it works out just right.


Thank Bruce you just answered my search. I have been trying to make a jig for my wheels, will work great.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading Train Building The Wheels #7*
> 
> Been working on the wheels the last two days and not to sad their about done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The indexing jig came in quite handy for this operation, saved me a ton a figuring, just use every third hole and you got it just right.
> I needed 12 holes and the indexer had 36 so it works out just right.


Orvile have you checked out my blog index???


----------



## htl

*Gatto Reading train build #7 1/2*

Playing with the wheels.








This is the *Trailing truck wheel assembly*.

*I should note* that the wheels go on the inside when done.


----------



## bushmaster

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build #7 1/2*
> 
> Playing with the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the *Trailing truck wheel assembly*.
> 
> *I should note* that the wheels go on the inside when done.


Enjoying your build, it is going to be a beauty,


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build #7 1/2*
> 
> Playing with the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the *Trailing truck wheel assembly*.
> 
> *I should note* that the wheels go on the inside when done.


Bruce this train is surely on the fast track


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build #7 1/2*
> 
> Playing with the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the *Trailing truck wheel assembly*.
> 
> *I should note* that the wheels go on the inside when done.


So nice!


----------



## Redoak49

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build #7 1/2*
> 
> Playing with the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the *Trailing truck wheel assembly*.
> 
> *I should note* that the wheels go on the inside when done.


Excellent !


----------



## Budster

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build #7 1/2*
> 
> Playing with the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the *Trailing truck wheel assembly*.
> 
> *I should note* that the wheels go on the inside when done.


Real top of the line as always. If I live long enough I might be half as good.


----------



## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build #7 1/2*
> 
> Playing with the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the *Trailing truck wheel assembly*.
> 
> *I should note* that the wheels go on the inside when done.





> Enjoying your build, it is going to be a beauty,
> 
> - bushmaster


Oh YES!


----------



## htl

*Gatto Reading train build Cow Catcher #8 1/2*

Worked on the cow catcher, leading truck wheel assembly, expansion tanks,


----------



## woodshaver

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build Cow Catcher #8 1/2*
> 
> Worked on the cow catcher, leading truck wheel assembly, expansion tanks,


Love seeing this! So many beautiful parts! 
I have an old American Flyer Union Pacific Northern Like this. I got it when I was 7 or 8. I had the entire train and track but sold it all except for the engine and coal car. I believe it's about 66 years old now. My train is in a box in the attic this photo is one I took off the web. 
Anyway… Love your detailed work! 
.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build Cow Catcher #8 1/2*
> 
> Worked on the cow catcher, leading truck wheel assembly, expansion tanks,


Man!!! Didn't we have fun just going in a circle way back when!

I still have a ton a details to make for the wheels and drive chain, I can see it in your train picture.


----------



## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build Cow Catcher #8 1/2*
> 
> Worked on the cow catcher, leading truck wheel assembly, expansion tanks,


BEAUTIFUL WORK!


----------



## DavePolaschek

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build Cow Catcher #8 1/2*
> 
> Worked on the cow catcher, leading truck wheel assembly, expansion tanks,


It's pretty awesome watching this come together.


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## woodshaver

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build Cow Catcher #8 1/2*
> 
> Worked on the cow catcher, leading truck wheel assembly, expansion tanks,


I'll be watching your progress! Here's a link where I got that photo from….


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build Cow Catcher #8 1/2*
> 
> Worked on the cow catcher, leading truck wheel assembly, expansion tanks,


Very Nice build, great workmanship.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build Cow Catcher #8 1/2*
> 
> Worked on the cow catcher, leading truck wheel assembly, expansion tanks,


Bruce I still have a train set setup for the grandson's every Christmas though if was a good as this train is turning out, it'd be NO TOUCHING at all…


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## bushmaster

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build Cow Catcher #8 1/2*
> 
> Worked on the cow catcher, leading truck wheel assembly, expansion tanks,


Lots of good looking parts.


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## htl

*Gatto Reading train build wheels finished #9 1/2*

Getting close but the closer I get the more small itty bitty parts I have to play with.
Not to sad these wheels are done.


















Had to make some small dados and Home Depot has the perfect blade for my model building.
It's just a $14 7 1/4" saw blade but it really cuts a nice bottom.









If I remember right this is 3 passes but that's one nice cut for a rip blade.
































































As I said at the beginning getting close but a ton a fuzz to get rid of..


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## Budster

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build wheels finished #9 1/2*
> 
> Getting close but the closer I get the more small itty bitty parts I have to play with.
> Not to sad these wheels are done.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> Had to make some small dados and Home Depot has the perfect blade for my model building.
> It's just a $14 7 1/4" saw blade but it really cuts a nice bottom.
> 
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> 
> If I remember right this is 3 passes but that's one nice cut for a rip blade.
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> As I said at the beginning getting close but a ton a fuzz to get rid of..


One fantastic engine WOW ! can't wait to see it when it's done. Makes me want to try one.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build wheels finished #9 1/2*
> 
> Getting close but the closer I get the more small itty bitty parts I have to play with.
> Not to sad these wheels are done.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> Had to make some small dados and Home Depot has the perfect blade for my model building.
> It's just a $14 7 1/4" saw blade but it really cuts a nice bottom.
> 
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> 
> If I remember right this is 3 passes but that's one nice cut for a rip blade.
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> As I said at the beginning getting close but a ton a fuzz to get rid of..


G'day Bruce. 
I wish we had Home Depot and the like downunder; so few choices of either specialty woodwork suppliers or hardware suppliers here. 
The train wheels are first class as is the train looking good. 
Cheers Peter


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## bushmaster

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build wheels finished #9 1/2*
> 
> Getting close but the closer I get the more small itty bitty parts I have to play with.
> Not to sad these wheels are done.
> 
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> 
> Had to make some small dados and Home Depot has the perfect blade for my model building.
> It's just a $14 7 1/4" saw blade but it really cuts a nice bottom.
> 
> 
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> 
> If I remember right this is 3 passes but that's one nice cut for a rip blade.
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> As I said at the beginning getting close but a ton a fuzz to get rid of..


You must work on this project full time , great progress. I use those blades on my table saw, will cut 1 inch thickness, very smooth with little waste. The one I have has 40 teeth. Got 2 of them cheap, less than 10$


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## htl

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build wheels finished #9 1/2*
> 
> Getting close but the closer I get the more small itty bitty parts I have to play with.
> Not to sad these wheels are done.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Had to make some small dados and Home Depot has the perfect blade for my model building.
> It's just a $14 7 1/4" saw blade but it really cuts a nice bottom.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> If I remember right this is 3 passes but that's one nice cut for a rip blade.
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> As I said at the beginning getting close but a ton a fuzz to get rid of..


In my shape here lately I consider 5 hours a good day so as the numbers show I've got nearly 50 hours in this build.
I work on it nearly every day, it helps keep my mind active, being retired you need to do something and this is something I have always liked doing, figuring things out.
I really prefer smaller projects I can get done in 5 days or less.

Bmaster this blade really does a nice job for cutting the treads for my tires, super thin and sharp, with a very flat bottom.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build wheels finished #9 1/2*
> 
> Getting close but the closer I get the more small itty bitty parts I have to play with.
> Not to sad these wheels are done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to make some small dados and Home Depot has the perfect blade for my model building.
> It's just a $14 7 1/4" saw blade but it really cuts a nice bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I remember right this is 3 passes but that's one nice cut for a rip blade.
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> As I said at the beginning getting close but a ton a fuzz to get rid of..


seems funny a demo blade cuts such a nice bottom like that ….the train is looking super great ….cant hardly wait till finish …..GREAT JOB :<))


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## adali

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build wheels finished #9 1/2*
> 
> Getting close but the closer I get the more small itty bitty parts I have to play with.
> Not to sad these wheels are done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to make some small dados and Home Depot has the perfect blade for my model building.
> It's just a $14 7 1/4" saw blade but it really cuts a nice bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I remember right this is 3 passes but that's one nice cut for a rip blade.
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> As I said at the beginning getting close but a ton a fuzz to get rid of..


excellent


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build wheels finished #9 1/2*
> 
> Getting close but the closer I get the more small itty bitty parts I have to play with.
> Not to sad these wheels are done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to make some small dados and Home Depot has the perfect blade for my model building.
> It's just a $14 7 1/4" saw blade but it really cuts a nice bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I remember right this is 3 passes but that's one nice cut for a rip blade.
> 
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> As I said at the beginning getting close but a ton a fuzz to get rid of..





> One fantastic engine WOW ! can t wait to see it when it s done. Makes me want to try one.
> 
> - Orvile Baker


Waiting like Bud is!


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## htl

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build wheels finished #9 1/2*
> 
> Getting close but the closer I get the more small itty bitty parts I have to play with.
> Not to sad these wheels are done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to make some small dados and Home Depot has the perfect blade for my model building.
> It's just a $14 7 1/4" saw blade but it really cuts a nice bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I remember right this is 3 passes but that's one nice cut for a rip blade.
> 
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> As I said at the beginning getting close but a ton a fuzz to get rid of..


*Gr8 look at the picture* of the blade it shows how it works.
It has 3 different teeth a right, left and middle so the center is all so cut for the finer bottom, it's super sharp and extra thin so great for tire treads and being a 24 tooth it all so cuts rips wood just fine too!!!


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## htl

*Gatto Reading train build wheels finished #10 1/2*

I've already posted the project but felt like I should add one last look at it before the finish was added.

And *Orvile Baker* I remembered your guff when I had glued up the valve cylinder chest and then couldn't get the first set of wheels in place and had to saw the glue and dowel I had holding it in place so the wheels would work.
It really messes with my head that close to the end and have to be sawing off parts and afraid I'm buggering things up. LOL

Here's what I had to fix.


















Now to the unfinished train.


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build wheels finished #10 1/2*
> 
> I've already posted the project but felt like I should add one last look at it before the finish was added.
> 
> And *Orvile Baker* I remembered your guff when I had glued up the valve cylinder chest and then couldn't get the first set of wheels in place and had to saw the glue and dowel I had holding it in place so the wheels would work.
> It really messes with my head that close to the end and have to be sawing off parts and afraid I'm buggering things up. LOL
> 
> Here's what I had to fix.
> 
> 
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> 
> Now to the unfinished train.


Still a fantastic job!

Way--WAY BEYOND my patience and my abilities!


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## Budster

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build wheels finished #10 1/2*
> 
> I've already posted the project but felt like I should add one last look at it before the finish was added.
> 
> And *Orvile Baker* I remembered your guff when I had glued up the valve cylinder chest and then couldn't get the first set of wheels in place and had to saw the glue and dowel I had holding it in place so the wheels would work.
> It really messes with my head that close to the end and have to be sawing off parts and afraid I'm buggering things up. LOL
> 
> Here's what I had to fix.
> 
> 
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> 
> Now to the unfinished train.


fantastic as always


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build wheels finished #10 1/2*
> 
> I've already posted the project but felt like I should add one last look at it before the finish was added.
> 
> And *Orvile Baker* I remembered your guff when I had glued up the valve cylinder chest and then couldn't get the first set of wheels in place and had to saw the glue and dowel I had holding it in place so the wheels would work.
> It really messes with my head that close to the end and have to be sawing off parts and afraid I'm buggering things up. LOL
> 
> Here's what I had to fix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Now to the unfinished train.


Looking good Bruce and good reminder "less haste and more speed"...

Keep stoking that boiler sir!!


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## bushmaster

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build wheels finished #10 1/2*
> 
> I've already posted the project but felt like I should add one last look at it before the finish was added.
> 
> And *Orvile Baker* I remembered your guff when I had glued up the valve cylinder chest and then couldn't get the first set of wheels in place and had to saw the glue and dowel I had holding it in place so the wheels would work.
> It really messes with my head that close to the end and have to be sawing off parts and afraid I'm buggering things up. LOL
> 
> Here's what I had to fix.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Now to the unfinished train.


Love seeing all the pictures, will be my favorite blog.


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## htl

*Gatto Reading train build Tender is on the table #2*

I heard you all and really out of my own model making addiction I got the tender started yesterday.
It took a day for the trucks and another for this.
Trying to match the sides of the train with the tender so dark half way up then a touch a maple, then walnut itty bitty stuff.
There's really not that much to the tender other than the pain to make trucks.
O! And it's like 14" long!!!


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build Tender is on the table #2*
> 
> I heard you all and really out of my own model making addiction I got the tender started yesterday.
> It took a day for the trucks and another for this.
> Trying to match the sides of the train with the tender so dark half way up then a touch a maple, then walnut itty bitty stuff.
> There's really not that much to the tender other than the pain to make trucks.
> O! And it's like 14" long!!!


very cool Bruce :<))


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build Tender is on the table #2*
> 
> I heard you all and really out of my own model making addiction I got the tender started yesterday.
> It took a day for the trucks and another for this.
> Trying to match the sides of the train with the tender so dark half way up then a touch a maple, then walnut itty bitty stuff.
> There's really not that much to the tender other than the pain to make trucks.
> O! And it's like 14" long!!!


I will be waiting anxiously to see it!


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## bushmaster

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build Tender is on the table #2*
> 
> I heard you all and really out of my own model making addiction I got the tender started yesterday.
> It took a day for the trucks and another for this.
> Trying to match the sides of the train with the tender so dark half way up then a touch a maple, then walnut itty bitty stuff.
> There's really not that much to the tender other than the pain to make trucks.
> O! And it's like 14" long!!!


I knew the rest of the train was not far behind.


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## woodshaver

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build Tender is on the table #2*
> 
> I heard you all and really out of my own model making addiction I got the tender started yesterday.
> It took a day for the trucks and another for this.
> Trying to match the sides of the train with the tender so dark half way up then a touch a maple, then walnut itty bitty stuff.
> There's really not that much to the tender other than the pain to make trucks.
> O! And it's like 14" long!!!


What Brian said! Looking good so far!


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build Tender is on the table #2*
> 
> I heard you all and really out of my own model making addiction I got the tender started yesterday.
> It took a day for the trucks and another for this.
> Trying to match the sides of the train with the tender so dark half way up then a touch a maple, then walnut itty bitty stuff.
> There's really not that much to the tender other than the pain to make trucks.
> O! And it's like 14" long!!!


This train will be steaming down the tracks pretty quickly with the speed this tender is coming together…


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## helluvawreck

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build Tender is on the table #2*
> 
> I heard you all and really out of my own model making addiction I got the tender started yesterday.
> It took a day for the trucks and another for this.
> Trying to match the sides of the train with the tender so dark half way up then a touch a maple, then walnut itty bitty stuff.
> There's really not that much to the tender other than the pain to make trucks.
> O! And it's like 14" long!!!


You are doing a very nice job on this tender and it will be nice to see them united together. Congratulations.


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## johnstoneb

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build Tender is on the table #2*
> 
> I heard you all and really out of my own model making addiction I got the tender started yesterday.
> It took a day for the trucks and another for this.
> Trying to match the sides of the train with the tender so dark half way up then a touch a maple, then walnut itty bitty stuff.
> There's really not that much to the tender other than the pain to make trucks.
> O! And it's like 14" long!!!


I knew you couldn't stop. Need cars to pull now.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build Tender is on the table #2*
> 
> I heard you all and really out of my own model making addiction I got the tender started yesterday.
> It took a day for the trucks and another for this.
> Trying to match the sides of the train with the tender so dark half way up then a touch a maple, then walnut itty bitty stuff.
> There's really not that much to the tender other than the pain to make trucks.
> O! And it's like 14" long!!!


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## htl

*Gatto Reading train build Tender Almost there #3*

Just some cleaning up and add the steps and she's done.



























This is one itty bitty ladder!






















































Well I hope your all happy I got the tender built. LOL
The project post is here'


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build Tender Almost there #3*
> 
> Just some cleaning up and add the steps and she's done.
> 
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> This is one itty bitty ladder!
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> 
> Well I hope your all happy I got the tender built. LOL
> The project post is here'


caboose now :<))


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## htl

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build Tender Almost there #3*
> 
> Just some cleaning up and add the steps and she's done.
> 
> 
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> This is one itty bitty ladder!
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> 
> Well I hope your all happy I got the tender built. LOL
> The project post is here'


I've already got two cabooses, do I need another one, I don't think so.
Thinking about a 62 Chevy my first car or the Shop Smith choo-choo.
I made up a boiler cylinder for the Reading train that just wouldn't work but if I cut it up, it would make a great boiler toy Choo-Choo. 
Wanting to do the lathe work.
This was one of my first projects when I bought my first Shop Smith back around 1985.


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## Budster

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build Tender Almost there #3*
> 
> Just some cleaning up and add the steps and she's done.
> 
> 
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> This is one itty bitty ladder!
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> 
> Well I hope your all happy I got the tender built. LOL
> The project post is here'


I just checked and T&J are back up.


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build Tender Almost there #3*
> 
> Just some cleaning up and add the steps and she's done.
> 
> 
> 
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> This is one itty bitty ladder!
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> Well I hope your all happy I got the tender built. LOL
> The project post is here'


Coming right along and looking good.


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build Tender Almost there #3*
> 
> Just some cleaning up and add the steps and she's done.
> 
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> This is one itty bitty ladder!
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> Well I hope your all happy I got the tender built. LOL
> The project post is here'


NICE!


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## bushmaster

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build Tender Almost there #3*
> 
> Just some cleaning up and add the steps and she's done.
> 
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> This is one itty bitty ladder!
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> Well I hope your all happy I got the tender built. LOL
> The project post is here'


Looks so good.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build Tender Almost there #3*
> 
> Just some cleaning up and add the steps and she's done.
> 
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> This is one itty bitty ladder!
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> Well I hope your all happy I got the tender built. LOL
> The project post is here'


Very nice Bruce. 
The tender will almost outshine the loco!!


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Gatto Reading train build Tender Almost there #3*
> 
> Just some cleaning up and add the steps and she's done.
> 
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> This is one itty bitty ladder!
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> Well I hope your all happy I got the tender built. LOL
> The project post is here'





> Well I hope your all happy I got the tender built. LOL
> 
> - htl


I am.

It is a great combination.


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## htl

*One More Set Of Tracks*

Always need to build some track when a new train comes to town.
Oak with a poplar base.
Guide boards and spacers gets it done in no time but kept checking for square as it would get out if not careful.














































This was a big train project with a lot a small parts but stick with it and you can get er done.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *One More Set Of Tracks*
> 
> Always need to build some track when a new train comes to town.
> Oak with a poplar base.
> Guide boards and spacers gets it done in no time but kept checking for square as it would get out if not careful.
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> This was a big train project with a lot a small parts but stick with it and you can get er done.


The tracks look good Bruce and were would that loco live if not on the rails…TOP EFFORT!!


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## woodshaver

htl said:


> *One More Set Of Tracks*
> 
> Always need to build some track when a new train comes to town.
> Oak with a poplar base.
> Guide boards and spacers gets it done in no time but kept checking for square as it would get out if not careful.
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> This was a big train project with a lot a small parts but stick with it and you can get er done.


Looking good htl! Nice tracks! That little guy has the right idea but need to put on a few pounds.


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## bushmaster

htl said:


> *One More Set Of Tracks*
> 
> Always need to build some track when a new train comes to town.
> Oak with a poplar base.
> Guide boards and spacers gets it done in no time but kept checking for square as it would get out if not careful.
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> This was a big train project with a lot a small parts but stick with it and you can get er done.


Just what that impressive model needed.


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## htl

htl said:


> *One More Set Of Tracks*
> 
> Always need to build some track when a new train comes to town.
> Oak with a poplar base.
> Guide boards and spacers gets it done in no time but kept checking for square as it would get out if not careful.
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> This was a big train project with a lot a small parts but stick with it and you can get er done.


Tony, Hate to say it but not enough poundage ain't my problem. :+]


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## woodshaver

htl said:


> *One More Set Of Tracks*
> 
> Always need to build some track when a new train comes to town.
> Oak with a poplar base.
> Guide boards and spacers gets it done in no time but kept checking for square as it would get out if not careful.
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> This was a big train project with a lot a small parts but stick with it and you can get er done.


Ha-ha-ha htl…. I'm in the same boat or should I say on the same train!


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## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *One More Set Of Tracks*
> 
> Always need to build some track when a new train comes to town.
> Oak with a poplar base.
> Guide boards and spacers gets it done in no time but kept checking for square as it would get out if not careful.
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> This was a big train project with a lot a small parts but stick with it and you can get er done.


Certainly finishes the model off!


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *One More Set Of Tracks*
> 
> Always need to build some track when a new train comes to town.
> Oak with a poplar base.
> Guide boards and spacers gets it done in no time but kept checking for square as it would get out if not careful.
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> This was a big train project with a lot a small parts but stick with it and you can get er done.


Becoming a great "Southern" railroad!


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *One More Set Of Tracks*
> 
> Always need to build some track when a new train comes to town.
> Oak with a poplar base.
> Guide boards and spacers gets it done in no time but kept checking for square as it would get out if not careful.
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> This was a big train project with a lot a small parts but stick with it and you can get er done.


Always need to build some track. Who taught you that?


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## DavePolaschek

htl said:


> *One More Set Of Tracks*
> 
> Always need to build some track when a new train comes to town.
> Oak with a poplar base.
> Guide boards and spacers gets it done in no time but kept checking for square as it would get out if not careful.
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> This was a big train project with a lot a small parts but stick with it and you can get er done.


Nicely done! A train without tracks is like a sandwich without bread.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *One More Set Of Tracks*
> 
> Always need to build some track when a new train comes to town.
> Oak with a poplar base.
> Guide boards and spacers gets it done in no time but kept checking for square as it would get out if not careful.
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> This was a big train project with a lot a small parts but stick with it and you can get er done.


like a peanut butter and jelly without the jelly :<))
GREAT JOB Bruce :<))


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## htl

htl said:


> *One More Set Of Tracks*
> 
> Always need to build some track when a new train comes to town.
> Oak with a poplar base.
> Guide boards and spacers gets it done in no time but kept checking for square as it would get out if not careful.
> 
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> This was a big train project with a lot a small parts but stick with it and you can get er done.


Dutchy this is one I kinda figured out on my own.
I already had the rails made, it always pays to make extras in case of mistakes but now when I needed some it was already made.
I used the T&J's rail how to them so turned out looking really nice.


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## htl

*One More Train #2*

Got started on a small train yesterday thinking of making it one of those toy book end kind a projects, but we'll have to see where it wants to go.
The chimney is all ready way different than I had planned but that's the way it wanted to be. lol
The chimney is also way big but maybe it will turn out alright.
The chimney and boiler were glued up for my last train [as one looong turning], but the glue up didn't go as planed not straight so cut it down and we get another train project.























































Here's what I was going to build.









I made one back in 1985 when I got my first Shop Smith, man what a thrill it was to have the tool needed to build this lathe intensive train project.
But now that I've got the new chimney turned I'm liking it so much may just have to put a little more detailing to it, which will work out just right as I had got rid of my first T&J wood burner, but still have the cars so the engine is needed.

Just one more model to feed the model making addiction.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *One More Train #2*
> 
> Got started on a small train yesterday thinking of making it one of those toy book end kind a projects, but we'll have to see where it wants to go.
> The chimney is all ready way different than I had planned but that's the way it wanted to be. lol
> The chimney is also way big but maybe it will turn out alright.
> The chimney and boiler were glued up for my last train [as one looong turning], but the glue up didn't go as planed not straight so cut it down and we get another train project.
> 
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> Here's what I was going to build.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> I made one back in 1985 when I got my first Shop Smith, man what a thrill it was to have the tool needed to build this lathe intensive train project.
> But now that I've got the new chimney turned I'm liking it so much may just have to put a little more detailing to it, which will work out just right as I had got rid of my first T&J wood burner, but still have the cars so the engine is needed.
> 
> Just one more model to feed the model making addiction.


Now until I read your write up I was thinking WOW this one was on the fast track to finished but low and behold "this is one I prepared earlier" deal….
Still very nice little train, one that some luck little person could play with…

Saying all that sir, your skills and mastery of model making has surely excelled sir…


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *One More Train #2*
> 
> Got started on a small train yesterday thinking of making it one of those toy book end kind a projects, but we'll have to see where it wants to go.
> The chimney is all ready way different than I had planned but that's the way it wanted to be. lol
> The chimney is also way big but maybe it will turn out alright.
> The chimney and boiler were glued up for my last train [as one looong turning], but the glue up didn't go as planed not straight so cut it down and we get another train project.
> 
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> 
> Here's what I was going to build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made one back in 1985 when I got my first Shop Smith, man what a thrill it was to have the tool needed to build this lathe intensive train project.
> But now that I've got the new chimney turned I'm liking it so much may just have to put a little more detailing to it, which will work out just right as I had got rid of my first T&J wood burner, but still have the cars so the engine is needed.
> 
> Just one more model to feed the model making addiction.


Cute Bruce.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *One More Train #2*
> 
> Got started on a small train yesterday thinking of making it one of those toy book end kind a projects, but we'll have to see where it wants to go.
> The chimney is all ready way different than I had planned but that's the way it wanted to be. lol
> The chimney is also way big but maybe it will turn out alright.
> The chimney and boiler were glued up for my last train [as one looong turning], but the glue up didn't go as planed not straight so cut it down and we get another train project.
> 
> 
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> 
> Here's what I was going to build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made one back in 1985 when I got my first Shop Smith, man what a thrill it was to have the tool needed to build this lathe intensive train project.
> But now that I've got the new chimney turned I'm liking it so much may just have to put a little more detailing to it, which will work out just right as I had got rid of my first T&J wood burner, but still have the cars so the engine is needed.
> 
> Just one more model to feed the model making addiction.





> Cute Bruce.
> 
> - Dutchy


Dutchy, How do you know Bruce is cute??


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## bushmaster

htl said:


> *One More Train #2*
> 
> Got started on a small train yesterday thinking of making it one of those toy book end kind a projects, but we'll have to see where it wants to go.
> The chimney is all ready way different than I had planned but that's the way it wanted to be. lol
> The chimney is also way big but maybe it will turn out alright.
> The chimney and boiler were glued up for my last train [as one looong turning], but the glue up didn't go as planed not straight so cut it down and we get another train project.
> 
> 
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> 
> Here's what I was going to build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made one back in 1985 when I got my first Shop Smith, man what a thrill it was to have the tool needed to build this lathe intensive train project.
> But now that I've got the new chimney turned I'm liking it so much may just have to put a little more detailing to it, which will work out just right as I had got rid of my first T&J wood burner, but still have the cars so the engine is needed.
> 
> Just one more model to feed the model making addiction.


Love those steam engines.


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *One More Train #2*
> 
> Got started on a small train yesterday thinking of making it one of those toy book end kind a projects, but we'll have to see where it wants to go.
> The chimney is all ready way different than I had planned but that's the way it wanted to be. lol
> The chimney is also way big but maybe it will turn out alright.
> The chimney and boiler were glued up for my last train [as one looong turning], but the glue up didn't go as planed not straight so cut it down and we get another train project.
> 
> 
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> 
> Here's what I was going to build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made one back in 1985 when I got my first Shop Smith, man what a thrill it was to have the tool needed to build this lathe intensive train project.
> But now that I've got the new chimney turned I'm liking it so much may just have to put a little more detailing to it, which will work out just right as I had got rid of my first T&J wood burner, but still have the cars so the engine is needed.
> 
> Just one more model to feed the model making addiction.





> Love those steam engines.
> 
> - bushmaster


Very well done.
I even had a boiler license; but stationary, not mobile.


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *One More Train #2*
> 
> Got started on a small train yesterday thinking of making it one of those toy book end kind a projects, but we'll have to see where it wants to go.
> The chimney is all ready way different than I had planned but that's the way it wanted to be. lol
> The chimney is also way big but maybe it will turn out alright.
> The chimney and boiler were glued up for my last train [as one looong turning], but the glue up didn't go as planed not straight so cut it down and we get another train project.
> 
> 
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> 
> Here's what I was going to build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made one back in 1985 when I got my first Shop Smith, man what a thrill it was to have the tool needed to build this lathe intensive train project.
> But now that I've got the new chimney turned I'm liking it so much may just have to put a little more detailing to it, which will work out just right as I had got rid of my first T&J wood burner, but still have the cars so the engine is needed.
> 
> Just one more model to feed the model making addiction.





> Cute Bruce.
> 
> - Dutchy
> 
> Dutchy, How do you know Bruce is cute??
> 
> - crowie


Sorry Crowie that's a secret.


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## htl

htl said:


> *One More Train #2*
> 
> Got started on a small train yesterday thinking of making it one of those toy book end kind a projects, but we'll have to see where it wants to go.
> The chimney is all ready way different than I had planned but that's the way it wanted to be. lol
> The chimney is also way big but maybe it will turn out alright.
> The chimney and boiler were glued up for my last train [as one looong turning], but the glue up didn't go as planed not straight so cut it down and we get another train project.
> 
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> Here's what I was going to build.
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> 
> I made one back in 1985 when I got my first Shop Smith, man what a thrill it was to have the tool needed to build this lathe intensive train project.
> But now that I've got the new chimney turned I'm liking it so much may just have to put a little more detailing to it, which will work out just right as I had got rid of my first T&J wood burner, but still have the cars so the engine is needed.
> 
> Just one more model to feed the model making addiction.


This is going to be a give away at a get together next week where everyone bring things to give to others so no tender just a quick fun project, I had planned to cut it in half for a book ends but couldn't bring myself to cut it in half. LOL :-[


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## crowie

htl said:


> *One More Train #2*
> 
> Got started on a small train yesterday thinking of making it one of those toy book end kind a projects, but we'll have to see where it wants to go.
> The chimney is all ready way different than I had planned but that's the way it wanted to be. lol
> The chimney is also way big but maybe it will turn out alright.
> The chimney and boiler were glued up for my last train [as one looong turning], but the glue up didn't go as planed not straight so cut it down and we get another train project.
> 
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> Here's what I was going to build.
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> I made one back in 1985 when I got my first Shop Smith, man what a thrill it was to have the tool needed to build this lathe intensive train project.
> But now that I've got the new chimney turned I'm liking it so much may just have to put a little more detailing to it, which will work out just right as I had got rid of my first T&J wood burner, but still have the cars so the engine is needed.
> 
> Just one more model to feed the model making addiction.


This has come up a treat Bruce….

And will be very much loved by the lucky recipient….


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## htl

*1929 Ford Van*

After the Reading train I was wanting something a little easier plus I just like these 3&4 day projects.
This is a Toys and Joys plan.




































Will need to figure out some spoke wheels.


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## Budster

htl said:


> *1929 Ford Van*
> 
> After the Reading train I was wanting something a little easier plus I just like these 3&4 day projects.
> This is a Toys and Joys plan.
> 
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> Will need to figure out some spoke wheels.


looking good


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## crowie

htl said:


> *1929 Ford Van*
> 
> After the Reading train I was wanting something a little easier plus I just like these 3&4 day projects.
> This is a Toys and Joys plan.
> 
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> Will need to figure out some spoke wheels.


G'day Bruce. 
You don't let the tools rest, just clear the sawdust and get going. 
Looking good sir.


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *1929 Ford Van*
> 
> After the Reading train I was wanting something a little easier plus I just like these 3&4 day projects.
> This is a Toys and Joys plan.
> 
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> Will need to figure out some spoke wheels.


Do you use the drawings or are you making this model without them? To me it looks not that difficult doing it without.


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## Ick

htl said:


> *1929 Ford Van*
> 
> After the Reading train I was wanting something a little easier plus I just like these 3&4 day projects.
> This is a Toys and Joys plan.
> 
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> Will need to figure out some spoke wheels.


You may say simple, but I'm impressed by the compound convex curve of the hood, with a matching curve on both the radiator and the windshield. Maybe you've covered it before, but how are you achieving this?


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *1929 Ford Van*
> 
> After the Reading train I was wanting something a little easier plus I just like these 3&4 day projects.
> This is a Toys and Joys plan.
> 
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> Will need to figure out some spoke wheels.


*THIS GUY* makes some very cool looking spoke wheels LOL
very cool car and of course you know imma ford fan :<))


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *1929 Ford Van*
> 
> After the Reading train I was wanting something a little easier plus I just like these 3&4 day projects.
> This is a Toys and Joys plan.
> 
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> Will need to figure out some spoke wheels.


Really neat ruck coming up.


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## htl

htl said:


> *1929 Ford Van*
> 
> After the Reading train I was wanting something a little easier plus I just like these 3&4 day projects.
> This is a Toys and Joys plan.
> 
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> Will need to figure out some spoke wheels.


Grhunter I'm trying to make a set a spoke wheels like you would buy at the store but wish now I had made the ones your showing I'm beginning to think their easier to make.
I just don't have the right hole saw size but that will be bought tomorrow. lol
I'm building this one for some friends but really like this project so will be making one for me [out of oak and walnut] with the fancier spokes, me thinks.

Dutchy I was wanting to get the shape just right and the plans with shipping was just $17.50 so went with the store bought plans.
Plus not feeling that well, so not up to all the extra thinking needed, just wanted to have some fun building this old timer.

Now to the build!!!
I used my tread making jig to drill the spoke holes.




































Then played with the roof.


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## htl

htl said:


> *1929 Ford Van*
> 
> After the Reading train I was wanting something a little easier plus I just like these 3&4 day projects.
> This is a Toys and Joys plan.
> 
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> Will need to figure out some spoke wheels.


ICK Check out this how to on my 32 Lincoln Kb

It doesn't show it but I glue a pattern to the front and back of the hood to find the shape, then you need to find the angle to set the disk sander to make the two patterns match up while sanding.
http://lumberjocks.com/htl/blog/85794


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## crowie

htl said:


> *1929 Ford Van*
> 
> After the Reading train I was wanting something a little easier plus I just like these 3&4 day projects.
> This is a Toys and Joys plan.
> 
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> Will need to figure out some spoke wheels.


Looking very good!!


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *1929 Ford Van*
> 
> After the Reading train I was wanting something a little easier plus I just like these 3&4 day projects.
> This is a Toys and Joys plan.
> 
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> Will need to figure out some spoke wheels.


Mighty Fine!!


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *1929 Ford Van*
> 
> After the Reading train I was wanting something a little easier plus I just like these 3&4 day projects.
> This is a Toys and Joys plan.
> 
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> Will need to figure out some spoke wheels.


It's good I'm looking for a second time. You can call this a double blog


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## htl

*1929 Ford Van Wheels, fenders*

Wanted some spoke wheels so tried out what I thought would be simple but not having made any before they weren't!!! LOL
I started by cutting out some blanks and then using my tread making jig with my drill press to drill for the spokes holes, then cut out the centers and add the 1/4" oak dowels for spokes.
If I ever try this spoke wheel again I'll use a smaller dowel, leaves more room between the spokes.






















































They didn't come out perfect but OK, and will go back to my other way of making spoke wheels next time.

Then I started cutting out the fenders.


















The project post is here.

Ps If you didn't notice I added a little more to the last post, that's why this one may seem like a repeated post for some.


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *1929 Ford Van Wheels, fenders*
> 
> Wanted some spoke wheels so tried out what I thought would be simple but not having made any before they weren't!!! LOL
> I started by cutting out some blanks and then using my tread making jig with my drill press to drill for the spokes holes, then cut out the centers and add the 1/4" oak dowels for spokes.
> If I ever try this spoke wheel again I'll use a smaller dowel, leaves more room between the spokes.
> 
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> They didn't come out perfect but OK, and will go back to my other way of making spoke wheels next time.
> 
> Then I started cutting out the fenders.
> 
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> The project post is here.
> 
> Ps If you didn't notice I added a little more to the last post, that's why this one may seem like a repeated post for some.


Looking G R E A T !!!


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## Redoak49

htl said:


> *1929 Ford Van Wheels, fenders*
> 
> Wanted some spoke wheels so tried out what I thought would be simple but not having made any before they weren't!!! LOL
> I started by cutting out some blanks and then using my tread making jig with my drill press to drill for the spokes holes, then cut out the centers and add the 1/4" oak dowels for spokes.
> If I ever try this spoke wheel again I'll use a smaller dowel, leaves more room between the spokes.
> 
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> They didn't come out perfect but OK, and will go back to my other way of making spoke wheels next time.
> 
> Then I started cutting out the fenders.
> 
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> 
> The project post is here.
> 
> Ps If you didn't notice I added a little more to the last post, that's why this one may seem like a repeated post for some.


Great post and really nice jig. I am going to try this. I get my Shopsmith back next week from a full rebuild. It was making noises and needed some work.


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## htl

htl said:


> *1929 Ford Van Wheels, fenders*
> 
> Wanted some spoke wheels so tried out what I thought would be simple but not having made any before they weren't!!! LOL
> I started by cutting out some blanks and then using my tread making jig with my drill press to drill for the spokes holes, then cut out the centers and add the 1/4" oak dowels for spokes.
> If I ever try this spoke wheel again I'll use a smaller dowel, leaves more room between the spokes.
> 
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> 
> They didn't come out perfect but OK, and will go back to my other way of making spoke wheels next time.
> 
> Then I started cutting out the fenders.
> 
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> 
> The project post is here.
> 
> Ps If you didn't notice I added a little more to the last post, that's why this one may seem like a repeated post for some.


I've been using both of mine a lot so need to get to oiling and the like, need to keep them ready.
My SS that I use for a drill press [a shorty] is a 1983 or there about and after making these wheels I can see where I need to add the double bearings for my drilling.

It's getting close got the fenders and bumpers placed, some lights and a steering wheel should just about get it.









I cut the axles down after the pictures. :-[




































I like building these older cars and trucks, quick and fairly easy once you get the bonnet and fenders figured out, and they look so nice on the shelf.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *1929 Ford Van Wheels, fenders*
> 
> Wanted some spoke wheels so tried out what I thought would be simple but not having made any before they weren't!!! LOL
> I started by cutting out some blanks and then using my tread making jig with my drill press to drill for the spokes holes, then cut out the centers and add the 1/4" oak dowels for spokes.
> If I ever try this spoke wheel again I'll use a smaller dowel, leaves more room between the spokes.
> 
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> 
> They didn't come out perfect but OK, and will go back to my other way of making spoke wheels next time.
> 
> Then I started cutting out the fenders.
> 
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> 
> The project post is here.
> 
> Ps If you didn't notice I added a little more to the last post, that's why this one may seem like a repeated post for some.


I wish I had the patience to build the oldies like yourself Bruce…coming along well and looking good…


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## htl

*Excavator using Dutchy"s new plans #1 *

Down loader Dutchys new plans and after a study and I mean a study of the plans it's full steam ahead.
I started on the tracks as this is what I'm the most interested in.
And kinda like the Reading train there's a lot a small parts but as I have found out these little parts really add to the look even if they're in the back and you would think their not of much use.
So to start with I cut out around 200 parts for the tracks and then had to drill two holes in each one, just large enough for a tooth pick to get through..

*And be sure to make extras* as there's always some that just won't cooperate.

With this many parts it pays to make some jigs.

I* just love my new Inca miter gauge!!!*



















Then the ones that will be used for guides need some shaping.


















Then drill and drill some more, got to have some where to put all them tooth picks.


















Sorry about some of these pictures as I had been fiddling with the camera and forgot to put it back to right.

Parts and more parts.

















Then I finally got to start playing with the base.


















Tomorrow I should be able to find out how the tracks will work out, after I make some treads.

*Not my first set of tracks.*

I built an Excavator before the Toys and Joys one here's the low down, no the different

tracks.

Also the smaller Toys and Joys Bull Dozer.

#4 over and out


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Excavator using Dutchy"s new plans #1 *
> 
> Down loader Dutchys new plans and after a study and I mean a study of the plans it's full steam ahead.
> I started on the tracks as this is what I'm the most interested in.
> And kinda like the Reading train there's a lot a small parts but as I have found out these little parts really add to the look even if they're in the back and you would think their not of much use.
> So to start with I cut out around 200 parts for the tracks and then had to drill two holes in each one, just large enough for a tooth pick to get through..
> 
> *And be sure to make extras* as there's always some that just won't cooperate.
> 
> With this many parts it pays to make some jigs.
> 
> I* just love my new Inca miter gauge!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Then the ones that will be used for guides need some shaping.
> 
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> 
> Then drill and drill some more, got to have some where to put all them tooth picks.
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> Sorry about some of these pictures as I had been fiddling with the camera and forgot to put it back to right.
> 
> Parts and more parts.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Then I finally got to start playing with the base.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow I should be able to find out how the tracks will work out, after I make some treads.
> 
> *Not my first set of tracks.*
> 
> I built an Excavator before the Toys and Joys one here's the low down, no the different
> 
> tracks.
> 
> Also the smaller Toys and Joys Bull Dozer.
> 
> #4 over and out


WOW-what a bunch of ultra-fine work!


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## Budster

htl said:


> *Excavator using Dutchy"s new plans #1 *
> 
> Down loader Dutchys new plans and after a study and I mean a study of the plans it's full steam ahead.
> I started on the tracks as this is what I'm the most interested in.
> And kinda like the Reading train there's a lot a small parts but as I have found out these little parts really add to the look even if they're in the back and you would think their not of much use.
> So to start with I cut out around 200 parts for the tracks and then had to drill two holes in each one, just large enough for a tooth pick to get through..
> 
> *And be sure to make extras* as there's always some that just won't cooperate.
> 
> With this many parts it pays to make some jigs.
> 
> I* just love my new Inca miter gauge!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the ones that will be used for guides need some shaping.
> 
> 
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> 
> Then drill and drill some more, got to have some where to put all them tooth picks.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Sorry about some of these pictures as I had been fiddling with the camera and forgot to put it back to right.
> 
> Parts and more parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Then I finally got to start playing with the base.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow I should be able to find out how the tracks will work out, after I make some treads.
> 
> *Not my first set of tracks.*
> 
> I built an Excavator before the Toys and Joys one here's the low down, no the different
> 
> tracks.
> 
> Also the smaller Toys and Joys Bull Dozer.
> 
> #4 over and out


Looking good as I knew it would..lol


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Excavator using Dutchy"s new plans #1 *
> 
> Down loader Dutchys new plans and after a study and I mean a study of the plans it's full steam ahead.
> I started on the tracks as this is what I'm the most interested in.
> And kinda like the Reading train there's a lot a small parts but as I have found out these little parts really add to the look even if they're in the back and you would think their not of much use.
> So to start with I cut out around 200 parts for the tracks and then had to drill two holes in each one, just large enough for a tooth pick to get through..
> 
> *And be sure to make extras* as there's always some that just won't cooperate.
> 
> With this many parts it pays to make some jigs.
> 
> I* just love my new Inca miter gauge!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the ones that will be used for guides need some shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill and drill some more, got to have some where to put all them tooth picks.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry about some of these pictures as I had been fiddling with the camera and forgot to put it back to right.
> 
> Parts and more parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I finally got to start playing with the base.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow I should be able to find out how the tracks will work out, after I make some treads.
> 
> *Not my first set of tracks.*
> 
> I built an Excavator before the Toys and Joys one here's the low down, no the different
> 
> tracks.
> 
> Also the smaller Toys and Joys Bull Dozer.
> 
> #4 over and out


 You have done a lot already. Nice to see that there are a lot of roads to a destination.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Excavator using Dutchy"s new plans #1 *
> 
> Down loader Dutchys new plans and after a study and I mean a study of the plans it's full steam ahead.
> I started on the tracks as this is what I'm the most interested in.
> And kinda like the Reading train there's a lot a small parts but as I have found out these little parts really add to the look even if they're in the back and you would think their not of much use.
> So to start with I cut out around 200 parts for the tracks and then had to drill two holes in each one, just large enough for a tooth pick to get through..
> 
> *And be sure to make extras* as there's always some that just won't cooperate.
> 
> With this many parts it pays to make some jigs.
> 
> I* just love my new Inca miter gauge!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the ones that will be used for guides need some shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill and drill some more, got to have some where to put all them tooth picks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry about some of these pictures as I had been fiddling with the camera and forgot to put it back to right.
> 
> Parts and more parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I finally got to start playing with the base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow I should be able to find out how the tracks will work out, after I make some treads.
> 
> *Not my first set of tracks.*
> 
> I built an Excavator before the Toys and Joys one here's the low down, no the different
> 
> tracks.
> 
> Also the smaller Toys and Joys Bull Dozer.
> 
> #4 over and out


:] Dutchy I was hoping you would blog it first so I could see how you went about it, knowing you've put in so much more time with this cool project.

But here's how a wood butcher gets it done. LOL


----------



## hookfoot

htl said:


> *Excavator using Dutchy"s new plans #1 *
> 
> Down loader Dutchys new plans and after a study and I mean a study of the plans it's full steam ahead.
> I started on the tracks as this is what I'm the most interested in.
> And kinda like the Reading train there's a lot a small parts but as I have found out these little parts really add to the look even if they're in the back and you would think their not of much use.
> So to start with I cut out around 200 parts for the tracks and then had to drill two holes in each one, just large enough for a tooth pick to get through..
> 
> *And be sure to make extras* as there's always some that just won't cooperate.
> 
> With this many parts it pays to make some jigs.
> 
> I* just love my new Inca miter gauge!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the ones that will be used for guides need some shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill and drill some more, got to have some where to put all them tooth picks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry about some of these pictures as I had been fiddling with the camera and forgot to put it back to right.
> 
> Parts and more parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I finally got to start playing with the base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow I should be able to find out how the tracks will work out, after I make some treads.
> 
> *Not my first set of tracks.*
> 
> I built an Excavator before the Toys and Joys one here's the low down, no the different
> 
> tracks.
> 
> Also the smaller Toys and Joys Bull Dozer.
> 
> #4 over and out


Making track is about 1/4 of the hours of a project. My thoughts. A very nice start. Drilling the holes is a tough job.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Excavator using Dutchy"s new plans #1 *
> 
> Down loader Dutchys new plans and after a study and I mean a study of the plans it's full steam ahead.
> I started on the tracks as this is what I'm the most interested in.
> And kinda like the Reading train there's a lot a small parts but as I have found out these little parts really add to the look even if they're in the back and you would think their not of much use.
> So to start with I cut out around 200 parts for the tracks and then had to drill two holes in each one, just large enough for a tooth pick to get through..
> 
> *And be sure to make extras* as there's always some that just won't cooperate.
> 
> With this many parts it pays to make some jigs.
> 
> I* just love my new Inca miter gauge!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the ones that will be used for guides need some shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill and drill some more, got to have some where to put all them tooth picks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry about some of these pictures as I had been fiddling with the camera and forgot to put it back to right.
> 
> Parts and more parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I finally got to start playing with the base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow I should be able to find out how the tracks will work out, after I make some treads.
> 
> *Not my first set of tracks.*
> 
> I built an Excavator before the Toys and Joys one here's the low down, no the different
> 
> tracks.
> 
> Also the smaller Toys and Joys Bull Dozer.
> 
> #4 over and out


now that Bruce is blogging….. i do not have to do it right Dutchy? ? ? ...he is a far better teacher anyways then me ….looks good Bruce…. is this only 1 day ? ? ?


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Excavator using Dutchy"s new plans #1 *
> 
> Down loader Dutchys new plans and after a study and I mean a study of the plans it's full steam ahead.
> I started on the tracks as this is what I'm the most interested in.
> And kinda like the Reading train there's a lot a small parts but as I have found out these little parts really add to the look even if they're in the back and you would think their not of much use.
> So to start with I cut out around 200 parts for the tracks and then had to drill two holes in each one, just large enough for a tooth pick to get through..
> 
> *And be sure to make extras* as there's always some that just won't cooperate.
> 
> With this many parts it pays to make some jigs.
> 
> I* just love my new Inca miter gauge!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the ones that will be used for guides need some shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill and drill some more, got to have some where to put all them tooth picks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry about some of these pictures as I had been fiddling with the camera and forgot to put it back to right.
> 
> Parts and more parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I finally got to start playing with the base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow I should be able to find out how the tracks will work out, after I make some treads.
> 
> *Not my first set of tracks.*
> 
> I built an Excavator before the Toys and Joys one here's the low down, no the different
> 
> tracks.
> 
> Also the smaller Toys and Joys Bull Dozer.
> 
> #4 over and out


I've built two other tracked models both Toys and Joys .
It's interesting how the tracks are build completely different on Dutchy's new model.
So this will help give me an idea of which style track building I like better, both are labor intense non the less.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Excavator using Dutchy"s new plans #1 *
> 
> Down loader Dutchys new plans and after a study and I mean a study of the plans it's full steam ahead.
> I started on the tracks as this is what I'm the most interested in.
> And kinda like the Reading train there's a lot a small parts but as I have found out these little parts really add to the look even if they're in the back and you would think their not of much use.
> So to start with I cut out around 200 parts for the tracks and then had to drill two holes in each one, just large enough for a tooth pick to get through..
> 
> *And be sure to make extras* as there's always some that just won't cooperate.
> 
> With this many parts it pays to make some jigs.
> 
> I* just love my new Inca miter gauge!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the ones that will be used for guides need some shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill and drill some more, got to have some where to put all them tooth picks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry about some of these pictures as I had been fiddling with the camera and forgot to put it back to right.
> 
> Parts and more parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I finally got to start playing with the base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow I should be able to find out how the tracks will work out, after I make some treads.
> 
> *Not my first set of tracks.*
> 
> I built an Excavator before the Toys and Joys one here's the low down, no the different
> 
> tracks.
> 
> Also the smaller Toys and Joys Bull Dozer.
> 
> #4 over and out


Phew all those parts. Would have taken an age to number them or are they interchangeable?

Must have cost a fortune for all those toothpicks.

Still mesmerised by tour use of the sander… simple but affective.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Excavator using Dutchy"s new plans #1 *
> 
> Down loader Dutchys new plans and after a study and I mean a study of the plans it's full steam ahead.
> I started on the tracks as this is what I'm the most interested in.
> And kinda like the Reading train there's a lot a small parts but as I have found out these little parts really add to the look even if they're in the back and you would think their not of much use.
> So to start with I cut out around 200 parts for the tracks and then had to drill two holes in each one, just large enough for a tooth pick to get through..
> 
> *And be sure to make extras* as there's always some that just won't cooperate.
> 
> With this many parts it pays to make some jigs.
> 
> I* just love my new Inca miter gauge!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the ones that will be used for guides need some shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill and drill some more, got to have some where to put all them tooth picks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry about some of these pictures as I had been fiddling with the camera and forgot to put it back to right.
> 
> Parts and more parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I finally got to start playing with the base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow I should be able to find out how the tracks will work out, after I make some treads.
> 
> *Not my first set of tracks.*
> 
> I built an Excavator before the Toys and Joys one here's the low down, no the different
> 
> tracks.
> 
> Also the smaller Toys and Joys Bull Dozer.
> 
> #4 over and out


Ducky that's why the bowls to keep the many parts that are the same together.
The drilled parts use more than one size drill bit but you know this, since you helped with the 3d drawings.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Excavator using Dutchy"s new plans #1 *
> 
> Down loader Dutchys new plans and after a study and I mean a study of the plans it's full steam ahead.
> I started on the tracks as this is what I'm the most interested in.
> And kinda like the Reading train there's a lot a small parts but as I have found out these little parts really add to the look even if they're in the back and you would think their not of much use.
> So to start with I cut out around 200 parts for the tracks and then had to drill two holes in each one, just large enough for a tooth pick to get through..
> 
> *And be sure to make extras* as there's always some that just won't cooperate.
> 
> With this many parts it pays to make some jigs.
> 
> I* just love my new Inca miter gauge!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the ones that will be used for guides need some shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill and drill some more, got to have some where to put all them tooth picks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry about some of these pictures as I had been fiddling with the camera and forgot to put it back to right.
> 
> Parts and more parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I finally got to start playing with the base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow I should be able to find out how the tracks will work out, after I make some treads.
> 
> *Not my first set of tracks.*
> 
> I built an Excavator before the Toys and Joys one here's the low down, no the different
> 
> tracks.
> 
> Also the smaller Toys and Joys Bull Dozer.
> 
> #4 over and out





> ... but you know this, since you helped with the 3d drawings.
> - htl


Normally that would be true, but *Dutchy* made me keep my eyes closed to protect his copyright!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Excavator using Dutchy"s new plans #1 *
> 
> Down loader Dutchys new plans and after a study and I mean a study of the plans it's full steam ahead.
> I started on the tracks as this is what I'm the most interested in.
> And kinda like the Reading train there's a lot a small parts but as I have found out these little parts really add to the look even if they're in the back and you would think their not of much use.
> So to start with I cut out around 200 parts for the tracks and then had to drill two holes in each one, just large enough for a tooth pick to get through..
> 
> *And be sure to make extras* as there's always some that just won't cooperate.
> 
> With this many parts it pays to make some jigs.
> 
> I* just love my new Inca miter gauge!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the ones that will be used for guides need some shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill and drill some more, got to have some where to put all them tooth picks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry about some of these pictures as I had been fiddling with the camera and forgot to put it back to right.
> 
> Parts and more parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I finally got to start playing with the base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow I should be able to find out how the tracks will work out, after I make some treads.
> 
> *Not my first set of tracks.*
> 
> I built an Excavator before the Toys and Joys one here's the low down, no the different
> 
> tracks.
> 
> Also the smaller Toys and Joys Bull Dozer.
> 
> #4 over and out





> Still mesmerised by tour use of the sander… simple but affective.
> 
> - LittleBlackDuck


I really don't know if you can see it but the wood fence is at an angle and ends at the edge of the sanding disk.
I just slide the small parts along the fence and as it goes across the wood is sanding a little at a time at an angle to shape the parts.

I really need to shape all the track parts but don't know of I have the gumption to sand the 200 or so parts on all four sides. :-[ 800 sandings???


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Excavator using Dutchy"s new plans #1 *
> 
> Down loader Dutchys new plans and after a study and I mean a study of the plans it's full steam ahead.
> I started on the tracks as this is what I'm the most interested in.
> And kinda like the Reading train there's a lot a small parts but as I have found out these little parts really add to the look even if they're in the back and you would think their not of much use.
> So to start with I cut out around 200 parts for the tracks and then had to drill two holes in each one, just large enough for a tooth pick to get through..
> 
> *And be sure to make extras* as there's always some that just won't cooperate.
> 
> With this many parts it pays to make some jigs.
> 
> I* just love my new Inca miter gauge!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the ones that will be used for guides need some shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill and drill some more, got to have some where to put all them tooth picks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry about some of these pictures as I had been fiddling with the camera and forgot to put it back to right.
> 
> Parts and more parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I finally got to start playing with the base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow I should be able to find out how the tracks will work out, after I make some treads.
> 
> *Not my first set of tracks.*
> 
> I built an Excavator before the Toys and Joys one here's the low down, no the different
> 
> tracks.
> 
> Also the smaller Toys and Joys Bull Dozer.
> 
> #4 over and out


This is going to be good, a masterclass with Bruce and WOW, doing a "Dutchy" plan!!


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Excavator using Dutchy"s new plans #1 *
> 
> Down loader Dutchys new plans and after a study and I mean a study of the plans it's full steam ahead.
> I started on the tracks as this is what I'm the most interested in.
> And kinda like the Reading train there's a lot a small parts but as I have found out these little parts really add to the look even if they're in the back and you would think their not of much use.
> So to start with I cut out around 200 parts for the tracks and then had to drill two holes in each one, just large enough for a tooth pick to get through..
> 
> *And be sure to make extras* as there's always some that just won't cooperate.
> 
> With this many parts it pays to make some jigs.
> 
> I* just love my new Inca miter gauge!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the ones that will be used for guides need some shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill and drill some more, got to have some where to put all them tooth picks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry about some of these pictures as I had been fiddling with the camera and forgot to put it back to right.
> 
> Parts and more parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I finally got to start playing with the base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow I should be able to find out how the tracks will work out, after I make some treads.
> 
> *Not my first set of tracks.*
> 
> I built an Excavator before the Toys and Joys one here's the low down, no the different
> 
> tracks.
> 
> Also the smaller Toys and Joys Bull Dozer.
> 
> #4 over and out


Amazing, you did a *GREAT!* job.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck

htl said:


> *Excavator using Dutchy"s new plans #1 *
> 
> Down loader Dutchys new plans and after a study and I mean a study of the plans it's full steam ahead.
> I started on the tracks as this is what I'm the most interested in.
> And kinda like the Reading train there's a lot a small parts but as I have found out these little parts really add to the look even if they're in the back and you would think their not of much use.
> So to start with I cut out around 200 parts for the tracks and then had to drill two holes in each one, just large enough for a tooth pick to get through..
> 
> *And be sure to make extras* as there's always some that just won't cooperate.
> 
> With this many parts it pays to make some jigs.
> 
> I* just love my new Inca miter gauge!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the ones that will be used for guides need some shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill and drill some more, got to have some where to put all them tooth picks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry about some of these pictures as I had been fiddling with the camera and forgot to put it back to right.
> 
> Parts and more parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I finally got to start playing with the base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow I should be able to find out how the tracks will work out, after I make some treads.
> 
> *Not my first set of tracks.*
> 
> I built an Excavator before the Toys and Joys one here's the low down, no the different
> 
> tracks.
> 
> Also the smaller Toys and Joys Bull Dozer.
> 
> #4 over and out





> I really don t know if you can see it but the wood fence is at an angle and ends at the edge of the sanding disk.
> I just slide the small parts along the fence and as it goes across the wood is sanding a little at a time at an angle to shape the parts.


Actually I did notice and that's why I commented. Seems so simple and obvious… now… after seeing your picture. On initial thought, I probably would have hand held it at a 45° angle and lowered it onto the belt of my "disc sander"... and picked up a free, though somewhat painful manicure.


> I really need to shape all the track parts but don t know of I have the gumption to sand the 200 or so parts on all four sides. :-[ 800 sandings?
> 
> 
> 
> - htl
> 
> 
> 
> Though a bit late 4u *#4*, maybe the next person to undertake the individual track *character building* task (as a movie stated about a line of novice monks bucketing water with bottomless buckets)..., hit two of the narrow sides on a long length of timber with a 45° implimenter ("V" router bit or angled tablesaw) before cutting into little pieces at 45° and then sand or cut (bloody carefully) the tip off… at least 100% less sanding and only on the short sides.
> Funny how at times I think outside the square… except when I am doing the build… then I always do it the hardest way… after completion, I often contemplate that with a bit of careful planning I could have found an even harder way to do it!
> 
> 
> 
> ... :-[ 800 sandings
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> ?...
Click to expand...

Pussy!... feel sorry for all those Jocks that make 2 or 3 of the model at the same time!


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Excavator using Dutchy"s new plans #1 *
> 
> Down loader Dutchys new plans and after a study and I mean a study of the plans it's full steam ahead.
> I started on the tracks as this is what I'm the most interested in.
> And kinda like the Reading train there's a lot a small parts but as I have found out these little parts really add to the look even if they're in the back and you would think their not of much use.
> So to start with I cut out around 200 parts for the tracks and then had to drill two holes in each one, just large enough for a tooth pick to get through..
> 
> *And be sure to make extras* as there's always some that just won't cooperate.
> 
> With this many parts it pays to make some jigs.
> 
> I* just love my new Inca miter gauge!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the ones that will be used for guides need some shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill and drill some more, got to have some where to put all them tooth picks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry about some of these pictures as I had been fiddling with the camera and forgot to put it back to right.
> 
> Parts and more parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I finally got to start playing with the base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow I should be able to find out how the tracks will work out, after I make some treads.
> 
> *Not my first set of tracks.*
> 
> I built an Excavator before the Toys and Joys one here's the low down, no the different
> 
> tracks.
> 
> Also the smaller Toys and Joys Bull Dozer.
> 
> #4 over and out





> I really need to shape all the track parts but don t know of I have the gumption to sand the 200 or so parts on all four sides. :-[ 800 sandings???
> 
> - htl


I thought that I had developed tracks with less labor to make.

If you had followed a different work order you would have had much less work. Like Ducky said you can profile strips before shortening. You need only four "simply" profiles. Three for the carrier and one for the tracks. Glue two of the strips together for the inner track carrier. Only after this is done you start shortening and drilling, and yes drilling is a lot of work.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Excavator using Dutchy"s new plans #1 *
> 
> Down loader Dutchys new plans and after a study and I mean a study of the plans it's full steam ahead.
> I started on the tracks as this is what I'm the most interested in.
> And kinda like the Reading train there's a lot a small parts but as I have found out these little parts really add to the look even if they're in the back and you would think their not of much use.
> So to start with I cut out around 200 parts for the tracks and then had to drill two holes in each one, just large enough for a tooth pick to get through..
> 
> *And be sure to make extras* as there's always some that just won't cooperate.
> 
> With this many parts it pays to make some jigs.
> 
> I* just love my new Inca miter gauge!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the ones that will be used for guides need some shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill and drill some more, got to have some where to put all them tooth picks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry about some of these pictures as I had been fiddling with the camera and forgot to put it back to right.
> 
> Parts and more parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I finally got to start playing with the base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow I should be able to find out how the tracks will work out, after I make some treads.
> 
> *Not my first set of tracks.*
> 
> I built an Excavator before the Toys and Joys one here's the low down, no the different
> 
> tracks.
> 
> Also the smaller Toys and Joys Bull Dozer.
> 
> #4 over and out





> I really need to shape all the track parts but don t know of I have the gumption to sand the 200 or so parts on all four sides. :-[ 800 sandings???
> 
> - htl
> 
> I thought that I had developed tracks with less labor to make.
> 
> 
> If you had followed a different work order you would have had much less work.* Like Ducky said you can profile strips before shortening. You need only four "simply" profiles. Three for the carrier and one for the tracks. Glue two of the strips together for the inner track carrier. Only after this is done you start shortening and drilling, and yes drilling is a lot of work.
> *
> *
> 
> - Dutchy
> *


*

It might be handy to add a hint page [*with the steps*] about this cause I'm liking the Toys and Joys way a lot better, being able to make a jig to help get it done..

This was one of the reasons I was hoping you would have blogged this.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Excavator using Dutchy"s new plans #1 *
> 
> Down loader Dutchys new plans and after a study and I mean a study of the plans it's full steam ahead.
> I started on the tracks as this is what I'm the most interested in.
> And kinda like the Reading train there's a lot a small parts but as I have found out these little parts really add to the look even if they're in the back and you would think their not of much use.
> So to start with I cut out around 200 parts for the tracks and then had to drill two holes in each one, just large enough for a tooth pick to get through..
> 
> *And be sure to make extras* as there's always some that just won't cooperate.
> 
> With this many parts it pays to make some jigs.
> 
> I* just love my new Inca miter gauge!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the ones that will be used for guides need some shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill and drill some more, got to have some where to put all them tooth picks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry about some of these pictures as I had been fiddling with the camera and forgot to put it back to right.
> 
> Parts and more parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I finally got to start playing with the base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow I should be able to find out how the tracks will work out, after I make some treads.
> 
> *Not my first set of tracks.*
> 
> I built an Excavator before the Toys and Joys one here's the low down, no the different
> 
> tracks.
> 
> Also the smaller Toys and Joys Bull Dozer.
> 
> #4 over and out


 "Like Ducky said you can profile strips before shortening."
It wasn't the sides I was having to shape but the angle needed on the end so the track wouldn't hit the treads as they circled around.
Surely you weren't wanting these made across the grain?


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Excavator using Dutchy"s new plans #1 *
> 
> Down loader Dutchys new plans and after a study and I mean a study of the plans it's full steam ahead.
> I started on the tracks as this is what I'm the most interested in.
> And kinda like the Reading train there's a lot a small parts but as I have found out these little parts really add to the look even if they're in the back and you would think their not of much use.
> So to start with I cut out around 200 parts for the tracks and then had to drill two holes in each one, just large enough for a tooth pick to get through..
> 
> *And be sure to make extras* as there's always some that just won't cooperate.
> 
> With this many parts it pays to make some jigs.
> 
> I* just love my new Inca miter gauge!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the ones that will be used for guides need some shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill and drill some more, got to have some where to put all them tooth picks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry about some of these pictures as I had been fiddling with the camera and forgot to put it back to right.
> 
> Parts and more parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I finally got to start playing with the base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow I should be able to find out how the tracks will work out, after I make some treads.
> 
> *Not my first set of tracks.*
> 
> I built an Excavator before the Toys and Joys one here's the low down, no the different
> 
> tracks.
> 
> Also the smaller Toys and Joys Bull Dozer.
> 
> #4 over and out


As there is time I will make a blog about the tracks. But I like it that you are doing making a blog first. There are a lot of ways to make something *and mine isn't always the best*. When orthers makes the blog before I do it gives me a good insight into how others think. *So your contribution is much appreciated!*


----------



## htl

*Excavator More tread parts #2 1/2*

Making more parts and putting it together to get an idea of what adjustments will need to be made.

Making the drive wheels.
Drilling a bunch a tooth pick holes then will need to shape for size.



























Then need to make enough tread for 80 2" treads.



























Now put it together to get an idea of how it all will work out.


















The bolts on the ends are just place holders so *there will be no metal on this build.*
I used some bolts on my first excavator but not this time.

I thought it was interesting having gone back and reread my Toys and Joys excavator build that it was my first try using a full blown store bought model plan, I hadn't remembered that, kinda shows the value of blogging a build, so many things are forgotten over time.


----------



## hookfoot

htl said:


> *Excavator More tread parts #2 1/2*
> 
> Making more parts and putting it together to get an idea of what adjustments will need to be made.
> 
> Making the drive wheels.
> Drilling a bunch a tooth pick holes then will need to shape for size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then need to make enough tread for 80 2" treads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now put it together to get an idea of how it all will work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bolts on the ends are just place holders so *there will be no metal on this build.*
> I used some bolts on my first excavator but not this time.
> 
> I thought it was interesting having gone back and reread my Toys and Joys excavator build that it was my first try using a full blown store bought model plan, I hadn't remembered that, kinda shows the value of blogging a build, so many things are forgotten over time.


Good looking job. When I make track, I do not work on it everyday. I tried and I ended up talking to myself.This procedure is a lot like I do. The pieces are a little different.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Excavator More tread parts #2 1/2*
> 
> Making more parts and putting it together to get an idea of what adjustments will need to be made.
> 
> Making the drive wheels.
> Drilling a bunch a tooth pick holes then will need to shape for size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then need to make enough tread for 80 2" treads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now put it together to get an idea of how it all will work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bolts on the ends are just place holders so *there will be no metal on this build.*
> I used some bolts on my first excavator but not this time.
> 
> I thought it was interesting having gone back and reread my Toys and Joys excavator build that it was my first try using a full blown store bought model plan, I hadn't remembered that, kinda shows the value of blogging a build, so many things are forgotten over time.


hookfoot making it the size of yours would sure help save the finger tips. LOL

I don't mind the talking to myself but when you start talking to the wood and it talks back, now there's a problem. LOL

The main reason I'm building this is for the tracks, I already have a Excavator but those tracks looked interesting so here we go on them.


----------



## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Excavator More tread parts #2 1/2*
> 
> Making more parts and putting it together to get an idea of what adjustments will need to be made.
> 
> Making the drive wheels.
> Drilling a bunch a tooth pick holes then will need to shape for size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then need to make enough tread for 80 2" treads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now put it together to get an idea of how it all will work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bolts on the ends are just place holders so *there will be no metal on this build.*
> I used some bolts on my first excavator but not this time.
> 
> I thought it was interesting having gone back and reread my Toys and Joys excavator build that it was my first try using a full blown store bought model plan, I hadn't remembered that, kinda shows the value of blogging a build, so many things are forgotten over time.


WOW-- Way past both my patience and skills too!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Excavator More tread parts #2 1/2*
> 
> Making more parts and putting it together to get an idea of what adjustments will need to be made.
> 
> Making the drive wheels.
> Drilling a bunch a tooth pick holes then will need to shape for size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then need to make enough tread for 80 2" treads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now put it together to get an idea of how it all will work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bolts on the ends are just place holders so *there will be no metal on this build.*
> I used some bolts on my first excavator but not this time.
> 
> I thought it was interesting having gone back and reread my Toys and Joys excavator build that it was my first try using a full blown store bought model plan, I hadn't remembered that, kinda shows the value of blogging a build, so many things are forgotten over time.


ralbuch I'm beginning to think the same thing!!! ;-[


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Excavator More tread parts #2 1/2*
> 
> Making more parts and putting it together to get an idea of what adjustments will need to be made.
> 
> Making the drive wheels.
> Drilling a bunch a tooth pick holes then will need to shape for size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then need to make enough tread for 80 2" treads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now put it together to get an idea of how it all will work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bolts on the ends are just place holders so *there will be no metal on this build.*
> I used some bolts on my first excavator but not this time.
> 
> I thought it was interesting having gone back and reread my Toys and Joys excavator build that it was my first try using a full blown store bought model plan, I hadn't remembered that, kinda shows the value of blogging a build, so many things are forgotten over time.


im so glad you are blogging this build cuz i just paid for the plans …. you are much faster then me …im thinking on ebonizing the treads …we will see …I Hate the smell of mixture …LOL :<))


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Excavator More tread parts #2 1/2*
> 
> Making more parts and putting it together to get an idea of what adjustments will need to be made.
> 
> Making the drive wheels.
> Drilling a bunch a tooth pick holes then will need to shape for size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then need to make enough tread for 80 2" treads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now put it together to get an idea of how it all will work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bolts on the ends are just place holders so *there will be no metal on this build.*
> I used some bolts on my first excavator but not this time.
> 
> I thought it was interesting having gone back and reread my Toys and Joys excavator build that it was my first try using a full blown store bought model plan, I hadn't remembered that, kinda shows the value of blogging a build, so many things are forgotten over time.





> ... you are much faster then me …im thinking on ebonizing the treads …we will see …I Hate the smell of mixture …LOL :<))
> - GR8HUNTER


Building it fast has been getting me in trouble here lately so made sure to really check out the plans and Duckys SketchUp plans have helped a bunch when something just didn't feel right.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Excavator More tread parts #2 1/2*
> 
> Making more parts and putting it together to get an idea of what adjustments will need to be made.
> 
> Making the drive wheels.
> Drilling a bunch a tooth pick holes then will need to shape for size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then need to make enough tread for 80 2" treads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now put it together to get an idea of how it all will work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bolts on the ends are just place holders so *there will be no metal on this build.*
> I used some bolts on my first excavator but not this time.
> 
> I thought it was interesting having gone back and reread my Toys and Joys excavator build that it was my first try using a full blown store bought model plan, I hadn't remembered that, kinda shows the value of blogging a build, so many things are forgotten over time.


This is looking very good htl.

and Duckys SketchUp plans have helped a bunch
This is great to hear, Ducky did a lot of work making this SketchUp drawing. He sometimes has worked on it till very late in the evening

*htl* I don's see no roundover corners on the treads carriers. I'm curious if that isn't a problem?


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Excavator More tread parts #2 1/2*
> 
> Making more parts and putting it together to get an idea of what adjustments will need to be made.
> 
> Making the drive wheels.
> Drilling a bunch a tooth pick holes then will need to shape for size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then need to make enough tread for 80 2" treads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now put it together to get an idea of how it all will work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bolts on the ends are just place holders so *there will be no metal on this build.*
> I used some bolts on my first excavator but not this time.
> 
> I thought it was interesting having gone back and reread my Toys and Joys excavator build that it was my first try using a full blown store bought model plan, I hadn't remembered that, kinda shows the value of blogging a build, so many things are forgotten over time.


You make it it so easy Bruce, BUT I know for sure it's now!


----------



## woodshaver

htl said:


> *Excavator More tread parts #2 1/2*
> 
> Making more parts and putting it together to get an idea of what adjustments will need to be made.
> 
> Making the drive wheels.
> Drilling a bunch a tooth pick holes then will need to shape for size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then need to make enough tread for 80 2" treads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now put it together to get an idea of how it all will work out.
> 
> 
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> The bolts on the ends are just place holders so *there will be no metal on this build.*
> I used some bolts on my first excavator but not this time.
> 
> I thought it was interesting having gone back and reread my Toys and Joys excavator build that it was my first try using a full blown store bought model plan, I hadn't remembered that, kinda shows the value of blogging a build, so many things are forgotten over time.


Your work is amazing htl and so interesting to see. Then I say to myself "It's best for me too just stick with what I do and watch and enjoy your work"!


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## htl

htl said:


> *Excavator More tread parts #2 1/2*
> 
> Making more parts and putting it together to get an idea of what adjustments will need to be made.
> 
> Making the drive wheels.
> Drilling a bunch a tooth pick holes then will need to shape for size.
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> The bolts on the ends are just place holders so *there will be no metal on this build.*
> I used some bolts on my first excavator but not this time.
> 
> I thought it was interesting having gone back and reread my Toys and Joys excavator build that it was my first try using a full blown store bought model plan, I hadn't remembered that, kinda shows the value of blogging a build, so many things are forgotten over time.


Dutchy I should take more pictures but it was near the end of the day so didn't show that being done.


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## htl

*Excavator Got a little more done.*

Haven't been gluing the big parts together in case I need a redo but coming along as I spit and sputter around.



























The base is not glued or bolted down so thing are put in place but top heavy so just placed for a have look.













































Went easy on myself and didn't put as much shaping to the body but as I think I said earlier the building of the tracks was my main reason for building this so with that done going off the plans for some things.


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## darkmyble

htl said:


> *Excavator Got a little more done.*
> 
> Haven't been gluing the big parts together in case I need a redo but coming along as I spit and sputter around.
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> Went easy on myself and didn't put as much shaping to the body but as I think I said earlier the building of the tracks was my main reason for building this so with that done going off the plans for some things.


Oh wow.. This is excellent work. I can only hope my efforts on the excavator can be as good as this. Great images too.. Very helpful.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Excavator Got a little more done.*
> 
> Haven't been gluing the big parts together in case I need a redo but coming along as I spit and sputter around.
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> Went easy on myself and didn't put as much shaping to the body but as I think I said earlier the building of the tracks was my main reason for building this so with that done going off the plans for some things.


Darkmyble I'm glad this is helpful as I've not been up to taking many pictures and adding any extra tips.


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Excavator Got a little more done.*
> 
> Haven't been gluing the big parts together in case I need a redo but coming along as I spit and sputter around.
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> Went easy on myself and didn't put as much shaping to the body but as I think I said earlier the building of the tracks was my main reason for building this so with that done going off the plans for some things.


These projects always amaze me. I do not have even 10% of the patience or skill to do something on that detailed level.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Excavator Got a little more done.*
> 
> Haven't been gluing the big parts together in case I need a redo but coming along as I spit and sputter around.
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> Went easy on myself and didn't put as much shaping to the body but as I think I said earlier the building of the tracks was my main reason for building this so with that done going off the plans for some things.


you are way far ahead of me Bruce but I had to change band saw blade LOL….. LOOKS GREAT :<))


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## Budster

htl said:


> *Excavator Got a little more done.*
> 
> Haven't been gluing the big parts together in case I need a redo but coming along as I spit and sputter around.
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> Went easy on myself and didn't put as much shaping to the body but as I think I said earlier the building of the tracks was my main reason for building this so with that done going off the plans for some things.


Looking real good , as soon as I can get back into the shop I have to try the new tracks.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Excavator Got a little more done.*
> 
> Haven't been gluing the big parts together in case I need a redo but coming along as I spit and sputter around.
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> Went easy on myself and didn't put as much shaping to the body but as I think I said earlier the building of the tracks was my main reason for building this so with that done going off the plans for some things.


Ya!!! Gr8Hunter I had to change blades on my last build and it really slowed me down. LOL


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Excavator Got a little more done.*
> 
> Haven't been gluing the big parts together in case I need a redo but coming along as I spit and sputter around.
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> Went easy on myself and didn't put as much shaping to the body but as I think I said earlier the building of the tracks was my main reason for building this so with that done going off the plans for some things.


Certainly does look good Bruce….


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Excavator Got a little more done.*
> 
> Haven't been gluing the big parts together in case I need a redo but coming along as I spit and sputter around.
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> Went easy on myself and didn't put as much shaping to the body but as I think I said earlier the building of the tracks was my main reason for building this so with that done going off the plans for some things.


To me this is looking very good Bruce, despite the time consuming tracks I hope you will be glad with the final build.


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Excavator Got a little more done.*
> 
> Haven't been gluing the big parts together in case I need a redo but coming along as I spit and sputter around.
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> Went easy on myself and didn't put as much shaping to the body but as I think I said earlier the building of the tracks was my main reason for building this so with that done going off the plans for some things.


Amazing!l Looking Good.


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## hookfoot

htl said:


> *Excavator Got a little more done.*
> 
> Haven't been gluing the big parts together in case I need a redo but coming along as I spit and sputter around.
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> Went easy on myself and didn't put as much shaping to the body but as I think I said earlier the building of the tracks was my main reason for building this so with that done going off the plans for some things.


Looking good. Track is a lot work (time).


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## Dee1

htl said:


> *Excavator Got a little more done.*
> 
> Haven't been gluing the big parts together in case I need a redo but coming along as I spit and sputter around.
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> Went easy on myself and didn't put as much shaping to the body but as I think I said earlier the building of the tracks was my main reason for building this so with that done going off the plans for some things.


Looking great bruce it is what I need to get back in the shop, I have not been able to accomplish anything 
this last month after the loss of my lovely helper.
Dee


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## htl

htl said:


> *Excavator Got a little more done.*
> 
> Haven't been gluing the big parts together in case I need a redo but coming along as I spit and sputter around.
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> Went easy on myself and didn't put as much shaping to the body but as I think I said earlier the building of the tracks was my main reason for building this so with that done going off the plans for some things.


My heath is what is slowing me down, so much pain when I get up but the thoughts of getting in the shop and playing with my toy's helps get me there some time in the day.

Now a days we *need all the positive in put we can get* with all the sad things going on in our lives.


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## htl

*Excavator Made some more parts and sand, sand, sand*

Played with the boom and shaped things up a little.




































Now it's time to finish up the tracks and get every thing glues up be for moving on to the little stuff Yuck!!! LOL
The boom and cabin aren't glued on yet.


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Excavator Made some more parts and sand, sand, sand*
> 
> Played with the boom and shaped things up a little.
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> Now it's time to finish up the tracks and get every thing glues up be for moving on to the little stuff Yuck!!! LOL
> The boom and cabin aren't glued on yet.


Very nice htl.


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## Budster

htl said:


> *Excavator Made some more parts and sand, sand, sand*
> 
> Played with the boom and shaped things up a little.
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> Now it's time to finish up the tracks and get every thing glues up be for moving on to the little stuff Yuck!!! LOL
> The boom and cabin aren't glued on yet.


Real nice work, love the new tracks. As soon as my hand heals up enough I will be back making me a set , or at least trying to come close to them.


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Excavator Made some more parts and sand, sand, sand*
> 
> Played with the boom and shaped things up a little.
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> Now it's time to finish up the tracks and get every thing glues up be for moving on to the little stuff Yuck!!! LOL
> The boom and cabin aren't glued on yet.


Very Nice work, great project.


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## hookfoot

htl said:


> *Excavator Made some more parts and sand, sand, sand*
> 
> Played with the boom and shaped things up a little.
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> Now it's time to finish up the tracks and get every thing glues up be for moving on to the little stuff Yuck!!! LOL
> The boom and cabin aren't glued on yet.


Good progress. When people ask me about the sanding schedule I tell them that when they think they are done they need to get a couple more sheets of sandpaper and go over it again. Keep up the best part of woodworking.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Excavator Made some more parts and sand, sand, sand*
> 
> Played with the boom and shaped things up a little.
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> Now it's time to finish up the tracks and get every thing glues up be for moving on to the little stuff Yuck!!! LOL
> The boom and cabin aren't glued on yet.


You got that's right hookfoot, and I use up a couple a sanding sponges along with the paper on the curves, really smooths them out.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Excavator Made some more parts and sand, sand, sand*
> 
> Played with the boom and shaped things up a little.
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> Now it's time to finish up the tracks and get every thing glues up be for moving on to the little stuff Yuck!!! LOL
> The boom and cabin aren't glued on yet.


I'm not sure which is the more impressive the tracks or that arm??

Maybe both deserve top marks Bruce!!


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## htl

htl said:


> *Excavator Made some more parts and sand, sand, sand*
> 
> Played with the boom and shaped things up a little.
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> Now it's time to finish up the tracks and get every thing glues up be for moving on to the little stuff Yuck!!! LOL
> The boom and cabin aren't glued on yet.


Thanks guys for keeping up with the progress, if you can call it that, as it seems to be a slow go for me but there's a lot a detail that can be added to these nice plans.


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## htl

*Excavator Boring for the hydraulics*

Doing the hydraulics can be interesting and I just happened to see a tip about boring long holes on the net and found out it works great and is quite fast with the right tools.
The outer housing is 1/2" and I drilled a 5/16 hole If I remember right, 3 3/4" deep.
My brad bit wouldn't quite go the whole way but once you're 3" or more just drill the rest by hand and it's done.


















Then some other parts just about ready.









It's funny I bought the Jacobs chuck on the right at Harbor Freight a while back for [$15]??? one of those I just might need that as I'm trying to collect more tools I might need for the lathe and sure enough I needed it. lol.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Excavator Boring for the hydraulics*
> 
> Doing the hydraulics can be interesting and I just happened to see a tip about boring long holes on the net and found out it works great and is quite fast with the right tools.
> The outer housing is 1/2" and I drilled a 5/16 hole If I remember right, 3 3/4" deep.
> My brad bit wouldn't quite go the whole way but once you're 3" or more just drill the rest by hand and it's done.
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> It's funny I bought the Jacobs chuck on the right at Harbor Freight a while back for [$15]??? one of those I just might need that as I'm trying to collect more tools I might need for the lathe and sure enough I needed it. lol.


I bought the very same chuck ….. but only 1 so I can drill just how you have set up …. I think I even started a tread about it …… but never thought of just using 2 of them ….thank you Bruce #4 for this hint :<))


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## htl

htl said:


> *Excavator Boring for the hydraulics*
> 
> Doing the hydraulics can be interesting and I just happened to see a tip about boring long holes on the net and found out it works great and is quite fast with the right tools.
> The outer housing is 1/2" and I drilled a 5/16 hole If I remember right, 3 3/4" deep.
> My brad bit wouldn't quite go the whole way but once you're 3" or more just drill the rest by hand and it's done.
> 
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> It's funny I bought the Jacobs chuck on the right at Harbor Freight a while back for [$15]??? one of those I just might need that as I'm trying to collect more tools I might need for the lathe and sure enough I needed it. lol.


From what I understand about this, by putting the wood on the power side it stays centered on the drill bit and works out quite nicely.
The Shop Smith comes with the Jacobs chuck on the right for drilling.

I would think a drill press could work the same way but would need to come up with a way to hold the drill bit on the drill table side.

Again I just happened up on this tip on the net and it's a real winner for me, as the SS can be set up to drill this out in minutes.
There is no lining anything up as the lathe property's of the tool is made for this type of work.
The oak spun in the lathe without a hint of a wobble so cut strait and true.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Excavator Boring for the hydraulics*
> 
> Doing the hydraulics can be interesting and I just happened to see a tip about boring long holes on the net and found out it works great and is quite fast with the right tools.
> The outer housing is 1/2" and I drilled a 5/16 hole If I remember right, 3 3/4" deep.
> My brad bit wouldn't quite go the whole way but once you're 3" or more just drill the rest by hand and it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then some other parts just about ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's funny I bought the Jacobs chuck on the right at Harbor Freight a while back for [$15]??? one of those I just might need that as I'm trying to collect more tools I might need for the lathe and sure enough I needed it. lol.


I see another HF trip in my future for another chuck for my lathe :<))))


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Excavator Boring for the hydraulics*
> 
> Doing the hydraulics can be interesting and I just happened to see a tip about boring long holes on the net and found out it works great and is quite fast with the right tools.
> The outer housing is 1/2" and I drilled a 5/16 hole If I remember right, 3 3/4" deep.
> My brad bit wouldn't quite go the whole way but once you're 3" or more just drill the rest by hand and it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then some other parts just about ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's funny I bought the Jacobs chuck on the right at Harbor Freight a while back for [$15]??? one of those I just might need that as I'm trying to collect more tools I might need for the lathe and sure enough I needed it. lol.


Gr8hunter I just went and looked and I saved where I saw the tip.
Hope this is helpful for some, it sure made my build easier.
And save you a trip to HF, since you have the one chuck.. LOL


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Excavator Boring for the hydraulics*
> 
> Doing the hydraulics can be interesting and I just happened to see a tip about boring long holes on the net and found out it works great and is quite fast with the right tools.
> The outer housing is 1/2" and I drilled a 5/16 hole If I remember right, 3 3/4" deep.
> My brad bit wouldn't quite go the whole way but once you're 3" or more just drill the rest by hand and it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then some other parts just about ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's funny I bought the Jacobs chuck on the right at Harbor Freight a while back for [$15]??? one of those I just might need that as I'm trying to collect more tools I might need for the lathe and sure enough I needed it. lol.


I wish we had Harbour Freight downunder or cheap shipping from the USA to Australia….

The lathe certainly makes that part easily with a skilled craftsman, well done Bruce


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Excavator Boring for the hydraulics*
> 
> Doing the hydraulics can be interesting and I just happened to see a tip about boring long holes on the net and found out it works great and is quite fast with the right tools.
> The outer housing is 1/2" and I drilled a 5/16 hole If I remember right, 3 3/4" deep.
> My brad bit wouldn't quite go the whole way but once you're 3" or more just drill the rest by hand and it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then some other parts just about ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's funny I bought the Jacobs chuck on the right at Harbor Freight a while back for [$15]??? one of those I just might need that as I'm trying to collect more tools I might need for the lathe and sure enough I needed it. lol.





> Gr8hunter I just went and looked and I saved where I saw the tip.
> Hope this is helpful for some, it sure made my build easier.
> And save you a trip to HF, since you have the one chuck.. LOL
> 
> - htl


Found this video after watching the one you posted thank you Tony
..


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Excavator Boring for the hydraulics*
> 
> Doing the hydraulics can be interesting and I just happened to see a tip about boring long holes on the net and found out it works great and is quite fast with the right tools.
> The outer housing is 1/2" and I drilled a 5/16 hole If I remember right, 3 3/4" deep.
> My brad bit wouldn't quite go the whole way but once you're 3" or more just drill the rest by hand and it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then some other parts just about ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's funny I bought the Jacobs chuck on the right at Harbor Freight a while back for [$15]??? one of those I just might need that as I'm trying to collect more tools I might need for the lathe and sure enough I needed it. lol.


It pays to hold on to died tools and find new uses for the parts but at some point you just have to throw things out or there's no room for new stuff. LOL :-]


----------



## htl

*Excavator Just about there*

Just need to glue up the Hydraulics and a few other dodads and play a little more with the cabin.


----------



## chief101

htl said:


> *Excavator Just about there*
> 
> Just need to glue up the Hydraulics and a few other dodads and play a little more with the cabin.


Amazing job..


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Excavator Just about there*
> 
> Just need to glue up the Hydraulics and a few other dodads and play a little more with the cabin.


looking really nice #4 …. I like how you did the seat … GREAT JOB :<))


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Excavator Just about there*
> 
> Just need to glue up the Hydraulics and a few other dodads and play a little more with the cabin.


Looks more like the seat for the Enterprise but what can I say, Dutchy made me do it.


----------



## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Excavator Just about there*
> 
> Just need to glue up the Hydraulics and a few other dodads and play a little more with the cabin.


So REALISTIC; I expect to see it work!


----------



## K7SU

htl said:


> *Excavator Just about there*
> 
> Just need to glue up the Hydraulics and a few other dodads and play a little more with the cabin.


Very nice! Is this a toys and joys plan?


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Excavator Just about there*
> 
> Just need to glue up the Hydraulics and a few other dodads and play a little more with the cabin.





> Very nice! Is this a toys and joys plan?
> 
> - K7SU


no Kelly these are Dutchy PLANS :<))

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/377313

and they are all awesome :<))
I built them all so far


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Excavator Just about there*
> 
> Just need to glue up the Hydraulics and a few other dodads and play a little more with the cabin.


Looking great Bruce, love the cushioned operators seat!!


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Excavator Just about there*
> 
> Just need to glue up the Hydraulics and a few other dodads and play a little more with the cabin.


You can say that I'm in a enjoying mode! And about that dowels in a chair my friend wasn't that YOUR idea.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Excavator Just about there*
> 
> Just need to glue up the Hydraulics and a few other dodads and play a little more with the cabin.





> You can say that I m in a enjoying mode! And about that dowels in a chair my friend wasn t that YOUR idea.
> 
> - Dutchy


I KNEW I seen it somewhere b4 :<))
were they also in a hummer some place ? ? ?


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Excavator Just about there*
> 
> Just need to glue up the Hydraulics and a few other dodads and play a little more with the cabin.


Super job well done!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Excavator Just about there*
> 
> Just need to glue up the Hydraulics and a few other dodads and play a little more with the cabin.


Tony the VW was the first time I used this idea but have no idea if it's been done before but surely It's not a first ever.


----------



## helluvawreck

htl said:


> *Excavator Just about there*
> 
> Just need to glue up the Hydraulics and a few other dodads and play a little more with the cabin.


This project is wonderful and your details and workmanship are so well carried out. This is an amazing model.


----------



## htl

*Building another Ford Van 1929*

After the Excavator I wanted to build something easy and fast and a friend liked the Ford Van so much he asked if I would build one, and I really like the look and feel of this simple project so off we go again.
Will be made out of oak instead of maple this time.
So cut out some parts we're on our way.









Ick Asked in the last Ford van build.

""You may say simple, but I'm impressed by the compound convex curve of the hood, with a matching curve on both the radiator and the windshield. *Maybe you've covered it before, but how are you achieving this?""*

First I cut up some oak to match the bonnets measurements and glue on my patterns both front and back, centered on the wood.
The shape of the sides has already been cut off. 

















Notice that the high of the block is the same as the height of the back pattern.

By cutting the block the same height as needed there's no need to cut out the waste with the band saw, it's already close enough to just sand the wast away.

The pattern in this picture shows both the front and back heights of the bonnet and there's about a 3/8 difference, so we need to set the angle of the disk sander to sand off this much of the front.










There not much of an angle but just enough to get it done, as we sand following the pattern the front will be sanded and the back top of the bonnet won't be sanded, but the side will following the pattern we glued on.








Front view








Back view








Finished shape.



































The first Ford Van blog is here.

I know some will say why show another one but I blog what I build so down the road I'll be able to remember what I built and when, so if your not interested stop reading now. LOL


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Building another Ford Van 1929*
> 
> After the Excavator I wanted to build something easy and fast and a friend liked the Ford Van so much he asked if I would build one, and I really like the look and feel of this simple project so off we go again.
> Will be made out of oak instead of maple this time.
> So cut out some parts we're on our way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ick Asked in the last Ford van build.
> 
> ""You may say simple, but I'm impressed by the compound convex curve of the hood, with a matching curve on both the radiator and the windshield. *Maybe you've covered it before, but how are you achieving this?""*
> 
> First I cut up some oak to match the bonnets measurements and glue on my patterns both front and back, centered on the wood.
> The shape of the sides has already been cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice that the high of the block is the same as the height of the back pattern.
> 
> By cutting the block the same height as needed there's no need to cut out the waste with the band saw, it's already close enough to just sand the wast away.
> 
> The pattern in this picture shows both the front and back heights of the bonnet and there's about a 3/8 difference, so we need to set the angle of the disk sander to sand off this much of the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There not much of an angle but just enough to get it done, as we sand following the pattern the front will be sanded and the back top of the bonnet won't be sanded, but the side will following the pattern we glued on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finished shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first Ford Van blog is here.
> 
> I know some will say why show another one but I blog what I build so down the road I'll be able to remember what I built and when, so if your not interested stop reading now. LOL


hey this one will have a steering wheel …. excited to see how your gonna work a seat in …. LOOKS GOOD :<))
BOTH of them started out the same … I wanted to build something easy … LOL


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Building another Ford Van 1929*
> 
> After the Excavator I wanted to build something easy and fast and a friend liked the Ford Van so much he asked if I would build one, and I really like the look and feel of this simple project so off we go again.
> Will be made out of oak instead of maple this time.
> So cut out some parts we're on our way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ick Asked in the last Ford van build.
> 
> ""You may say simple, but I'm impressed by the compound convex curve of the hood, with a matching curve on both the radiator and the windshield. *Maybe you've covered it before, but how are you achieving this?""*
> 
> First I cut up some oak to match the bonnets measurements and glue on my patterns both front and back, centered on the wood.
> The shape of the sides has already been cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice that the high of the block is the same as the height of the back pattern.
> 
> By cutting the block the same height as needed there's no need to cut out the waste with the band saw, it's already close enough to just sand the wast away.
> 
> The pattern in this picture shows both the front and back heights of the bonnet and there's about a 3/8 difference, so we need to set the angle of the disk sander to sand off this much of the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There not much of an angle but just enough to get it done, as we sand following the pattern the front will be sanded and the back top of the bonnet won't be sanded, but the side will following the pattern we glued on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finished shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first Ford Van blog is here.
> 
> I know some will say why show another one but I blog what I build so down the road I'll be able to remember what I built and when, so if your not interested stop reading now. LOL


I bought some steering wheels when I bought the High gear dozer plans from T&j so both my fords will have steering wheels now. LOL
I'm going to make a seat like for a milk truck where he can enter the front of the storage area.
It's funny no one seemed to notice you couldn't get in the back of the last truck. lol

GR8Hunter "I wanted to build something easy … LOL"

Well your on the wrong project for that right now!!! :-]

I just today brought the excavator in the house and my wife commented on how complicated it must have been to build.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Building another Ford Van 1929*
> 
> After the Excavator I wanted to build something easy and fast and a friend liked the Ford Van so much he asked if I would build one, and I really like the look and feel of this simple project so off we go again.
> Will be made out of oak instead of maple this time.
> So cut out some parts we're on our way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ick Asked in the last Ford van build.
> 
> ""You may say simple, but I'm impressed by the compound convex curve of the hood, with a matching curve on both the radiator and the windshield. *Maybe you've covered it before, but how are you achieving this?""*
> 
> First I cut up some oak to match the bonnets measurements and glue on my patterns both front and back, centered on the wood.
> The shape of the sides has already been cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice that the high of the block is the same as the height of the back pattern.
> 
> By cutting the block the same height as needed there's no need to cut out the waste with the band saw, it's already close enough to just sand the wast away.
> 
> The pattern in this picture shows both the front and back heights of the bonnet and there's about a 3/8 difference, so we need to set the angle of the disk sander to sand off this much of the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There not much of an angle but just enough to get it done, as we sand following the pattern the front will be sanded and the back top of the bonnet won't be sanded, but the side will following the pattern we glued on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finished shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first Ford Van blog is here.
> 
> I know some will say why show another one but I blog what I build so down the road I'll be able to remember what I built and when, so if your not interested stop reading now. LOL


BUT I am having fun tracks are drying :<))


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Building another Ford Van 1929*
> 
> After the Excavator I wanted to build something easy and fast and a friend liked the Ford Van so much he asked if I would build one, and I really like the look and feel of this simple project so off we go again.
> Will be made out of oak instead of maple this time.
> So cut out some parts we're on our way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ick Asked in the last Ford van build.
> 
> ""You may say simple, but I'm impressed by the compound convex curve of the hood, with a matching curve on both the radiator and the windshield. *Maybe you've covered it before, but how are you achieving this?""*
> 
> First I cut up some oak to match the bonnets measurements and glue on my patterns both front and back, centered on the wood.
> The shape of the sides has already been cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice that the high of the block is the same as the height of the back pattern.
> 
> By cutting the block the same height as needed there's no need to cut out the waste with the band saw, it's already close enough to just sand the wast away.
> 
> The pattern in this picture shows both the front and back heights of the bonnet and there's about a 3/8 difference, so we need to set the angle of the disk sander to sand off this much of the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There not much of an angle but just enough to get it done, as we sand following the pattern the front will be sanded and the back top of the bonnet won't be sanded, but the side will following the pattern we glued on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finished shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first Ford Van blog is here.
> 
> I know some will say why show another one but I blog what I build so down the road I'll be able to remember what I built and when, so if your not interested stop reading now. LOL


Bruce, the sawdust hasn't had time to clear nor the machinery cool down and you're well into a new project. 
Good looking Ford Truck, got my attention straight up.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Building another Ford Van 1929*
> 
> After the Excavator I wanted to build something easy and fast and a friend liked the Ford Van so much he asked if I would build one, and I really like the look and feel of this simple project so off we go again.
> Will be made out of oak instead of maple this time.
> So cut out some parts we're on our way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ick Asked in the last Ford van build.
> 
> ""You may say simple, but I'm impressed by the compound convex curve of the hood, with a matching curve on both the radiator and the windshield. *Maybe you've covered it before, but how are you achieving this?""*
> 
> First I cut up some oak to match the bonnets measurements and glue on my patterns both front and back, centered on the wood.
> The shape of the sides has already been cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice that the high of the block is the same as the height of the back pattern.
> 
> By cutting the block the same height as needed there's no need to cut out the waste with the band saw, it's already close enough to just sand the wast away.
> 
> The pattern in this picture shows both the front and back heights of the bonnet and there's about a 3/8 difference, so we need to set the angle of the disk sander to sand off this much of the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There not much of an angle but just enough to get it done, as we sand following the pattern the front will be sanded and the back top of the bonnet won't be sanded, but the side will following the pattern we glued on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finished shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first Ford Van blog is here.
> 
> I know some will say why show another one but I blog what I build so down the road I'll be able to remember what I built and when, so if your not interested stop reading now. LOL


Gr8 when you said "… I wanted to build something easy … LOL" you were talking about what I said but when I first read you post I didn't understand what you meant.
Some times I have to reread what you all are saying, I get it all mixed up in my head. LOL
Me and Mr. alzheimer's and Mr. Arthritis are on a first name bases, they help or is it hinder me in the shop all day.


----------



## htl

*Ford van #2 Glue up*


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Ford van #2 Glue up*


Bruce, the lines on that model a beautiful sir; well done


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Ford van #2 Glue up*


Will this fine truck be a Milk delivery truck?


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Ford van #2 Glue up*


Milk truck, Patty wagon, or JW sound car.


----------



## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Ford van #2 Glue up*


Going to be a gorgeous model!


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Ford van #2 Glue up*


Nice with that oak, and superb wheels!


----------



## htl

*Ford van #2 Playing with some wheels*

I LOVE to make wheels I don't know why but this is the one place I can have some fun.

My spoke wheel making blog is here but I went just a tad different to get the model A look.

Since I'm building the 1929 ford van I'm trying for some Model A Wheels.
They should look like this.









Well here's what I came up with today with a little trial and error.
Now if I can just make four that are close to the same.








I've all ways had trouble getting things marked up and I usually glue the pattern to the wood but it always seems to get off center so I just bolted the pattern to the bottom marked it and on to the next rim.
I found a clock pattern that was just what I needed for the spokes since I needed 60 marks for this build.































































I still need to make some rubber and treads but it's coming together.

They're a long way from perfect the stinking drill bit has a mind of it's own at times. lol


----------



## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Ford van #2 Playing with some wheels*
> 
> I LOVE to make wheels I don't know why but this is the one place I can have some fun.
> 
> My spoke wheel making blog is here but I went just a tad different to get the model A look.
> 
> Since I'm building the 1929 ford van I'm trying for some Model A Wheels.
> They should look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well here's what I came up with today with a little trial and error.
> Now if I can just make four that are close to the same.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've all ways had trouble getting things marked up and I usually glue the pattern to the wood but it always seems to get off center so I just bolted the pattern to the bottom marked it and on to the next rim.
> I found a clock pattern that was just what I needed for the spokes since I needed 60 marks for this build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to make some rubber and treads but it's coming together.
> 
> They're a long way from perfect the stinking drill bit has a mind of it's own at times. lol


*FANTASTIC LOOKING WHEELS!"

Way past my patience or abilities too!


----------



## sras

htl said:


> *Ford van #2 Playing with some wheels*
> 
> I LOVE to make wheels I don't know why but this is the one place I can have some fun.
> 
> My spoke wheel making blog is here but I went just a tad different to get the model A look.
> 
> Since I'm building the 1929 ford van I'm trying for some Model A Wheels.
> They should look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well here's what I came up with today with a little trial and error.
> Now if I can just make four that are close to the same.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've all ways had trouble getting things marked up and I usually glue the pattern to the wood but it always seems to get off center so I just bolted the pattern to the bottom marked it and on to the next rim.
> I found a clock pattern that was just what I needed for the spokes since I needed 60 marks for this build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to make some rubber and treads but it's coming together.
> 
> They're a long way from perfect the stinking drill bit has a mind of it's own at times. lol


Wow


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Ford van #2 Playing with some wheels*
> 
> I LOVE to make wheels I don't know why but this is the one place I can have some fun.
> 
> My spoke wheel making blog is here but I went just a tad different to get the model A look.
> 
> Since I'm building the 1929 ford van I'm trying for some Model A Wheels.
> They should look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well here's what I came up with today with a little trial and error.
> Now if I can just make four that are close to the same.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've all ways had trouble getting things marked up and I usually glue the pattern to the wood but it always seems to get off center so I just bolted the pattern to the bottom marked it and on to the next rim.
> I found a clock pattern that was just what I needed for the spokes since I needed 60 marks for this build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to make some rubber and treads but it's coming together.
> 
> They're a long way from perfect the stinking drill bit has a mind of it's own at times. lol


They look great Bruce; a very clever design. Well done sir.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Ford van #2 Playing with some wheels*
> 
> I LOVE to make wheels I don't know why but this is the one place I can have some fun.
> 
> My spoke wheel making blog is here but I went just a tad different to get the model A look.
> 
> Since I'm building the 1929 ford van I'm trying for some Model A Wheels.
> They should look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well here's what I came up with today with a little trial and error.
> Now if I can just make four that are close to the same.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've all ways had trouble getting things marked up and I usually glue the pattern to the wood but it always seems to get off center so I just bolted the pattern to the bottom marked it and on to the next rim.
> I found a clock pattern that was just what I needed for the spokes since I needed 60 marks for this build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to make some rubber and treads but it's coming together.
> 
> They're a long way from perfect the stinking drill bit has a mind of it's own at times. lol


Thanks guys, it's time for bed for me. LOL


----------



## robscastle

htl said:


> *Ford van #2 Playing with some wheels*
> 
> I LOVE to make wheels I don't know why but this is the one place I can have some fun.
> 
> My spoke wheel making blog is here but I went just a tad different to get the model A look.
> 
> Since I'm building the 1929 ford van I'm trying for some Model A Wheels.
> They should look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well here's what I came up with today with a little trial and error.
> Now if I can just make four that are close to the same.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've all ways had trouble getting things marked up and I usually glue the pattern to the wood but it always seems to get off center so I just bolted the pattern to the bottom marked it and on to the next rim.
> I found a clock pattern that was just what I needed for the spokes since I needed 60 marks for this build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to make some rubber and treads but it's coming together.
> 
> They're a long way from perfect the stinking drill bit has a mind of it's own at times. lol


You know, all this work on wheels is inspiring to give it a try, so I will see if I can make a 3 spoker 
Standby


----------



## JulianLech

htl said:


> *Ford van #2 Playing with some wheels*
> 
> I LOVE to make wheels I don't know why but this is the one place I can have some fun.
> 
> My spoke wheel making blog is here but I went just a tad different to get the model A look.
> 
> Since I'm building the 1929 ford van I'm trying for some Model A Wheels.
> They should look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well here's what I came up with today with a little trial and error.
> Now if I can just make four that are close to the same.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've all ways had trouble getting things marked up and I usually glue the pattern to the wood but it always seems to get off center so I just bolted the pattern to the bottom marked it and on to the next rim.
> I found a clock pattern that was just what I needed for the spokes since I needed 60 marks for this build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to make some rubber and treads but it's coming together.
> 
> They're a long way from perfect the stinking drill bit has a mind of it's own at times. lol


Best looking wheels I have seen.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Ford van #2 Playing with some wheels*
> 
> I LOVE to make wheels I don't know why but this is the one place I can have some fun.
> 
> My spoke wheel making blog is here but I went just a tad different to get the model A look.
> 
> Since I'm building the 1929 ford van I'm trying for some Model A Wheels.
> They should look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well here's what I came up with today with a little trial and error.
> Now if I can just make four that are close to the same.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've all ways had trouble getting things marked up and I usually glue the pattern to the wood but it always seems to get off center so I just bolted the pattern to the bottom marked it and on to the next rim.
> I found a clock pattern that was just what I needed for the spokes since I needed 60 marks for this build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to make some rubber and treads but it's coming together.
> 
> They're a long way from perfect the stinking drill bit has a mind of it's own at times. lol


Putting a little shape to them.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Ford van #2 Playing with some wheels*
> 
> I LOVE to make wheels I don't know why but this is the one place I can have some fun.
> 
> My spoke wheel making blog is here but I went just a tad different to get the model A look.
> 
> Since I'm building the 1929 ford van I'm trying for some Model A Wheels.
> They should look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well here's what I came up with today with a little trial and error.
> Now if I can just make four that are close to the same.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've all ways had trouble getting things marked up and I usually glue the pattern to the wood but it always seems to get off center so I just bolted the pattern to the bottom marked it and on to the next rim.
> I found a clock pattern that was just what I needed for the spokes since I needed 60 marks for this build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to make some rubber and treads but it's coming together.
> 
> They're a long way from perfect the stinking drill bit has a mind of it's own at times. lol


oh I like these wheels and tires almost identical to model A …. GREAT JOB :<))


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Ford van #2 Playing with some wheels*
> 
> I LOVE to make wheels I don't know why but this is the one place I can have some fun.
> 
> My spoke wheel making blog is here but I went just a tad different to get the model A look.
> 
> Since I'm building the 1929 ford van I'm trying for some Model A Wheels.
> They should look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well here's what I came up with today with a little trial and error.
> Now if I can just make four that are close to the same.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've all ways had trouble getting things marked up and I usually glue the pattern to the wood but it always seems to get off center so I just bolted the pattern to the bottom marked it and on to the next rim.
> I found a clock pattern that was just what I needed for the spokes since I needed 60 marks for this build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to make some rubber and treads but it's coming together.
> 
> They're a long way from perfect the stinking drill bit has a mind of it's own at times. lol


ALL Most!!! All Most!!! What you talking about Wilber?
Them's just about as close as you can get here in Alabama with a bum drill bit, and busted glasses. lol
I think it's passed my bed time.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Ford van #2 Playing with some wheels*
> 
> I LOVE to make wheels I don't know why but this is the one place I can have some fun.
> 
> My spoke wheel making blog is here but I went just a tad different to get the model A look.
> 
> Since I'm building the 1929 ford van I'm trying for some Model A Wheels.
> They should look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well here's what I came up with today with a little trial and error.
> Now if I can just make four that are close to the same.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've all ways had trouble getting things marked up and I usually glue the pattern to the wood but it always seems to get off center so I just bolted the pattern to the bottom marked it and on to the next rim.
> I found a clock pattern that was just what I needed for the spokes since I needed 60 marks for this build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to make some rubber and treads but it's coming together.
> 
> They're a long way from perfect the stinking drill bit has a mind of it's own at times. lol


First class wheels bruce… look like the real deal..very well done sir!!


----------



## htl

*Ford van #2 Just about there*


----------



## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Ford van #2 Just about there*


Doing extremely well!


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Ford van #2 Just about there*


Now she's really starting to look good Bruce…
The mudguards are beautiful sir…


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Ford van #2 Just about there*


This Wagon is beginning to look good the Oak grain will make it pop.


----------



## Budster

htl said:


> *Ford van #2 Just about there*


Looking GOOD!


----------



## sras

htl said:


> *Ford van #2 Just about there*


Those wheels - wow.


----------



## hookfoot

htl said:


> *Ford van #2 Just about there*


Love the wheels. Nice project.


----------



## hookfoot

htl said:


> *Ford van #2 Just about there*


Love the wheels. Nice project.


----------



## SouthavenToyMaker

htl said:


> *Ford van #2 Just about there*


The rims and tires really set it off.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Ford van #2 Just about there*


So nice this one, please make also some small parts for addition, it's worth it.


----------



## helluvawreck

htl said:


> *Ford van #2 Just about there*


Wow! This is a nice toy van and it has a lot of nice details and craftsmanship.


----------



## hjt

htl said:


> *Ford van #2 Just about there*


Very nice. Like many other comments - the wheels caught my attention.


----------



## htl

*Hi Track Dozer*

Started playing with the Toys and Joys Hi Track Dozer-81 last week.
I had built one using the plans that the Wood Magazine sells which is a toy build but I mixed things up taking ideas from the pictures of the Toys and Joys Hi Track Dozer. Project post is here.
This was my first try at a true model build from plans, but even then I went off the reservation.









Here's what I've got done so far.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer*
> 
> Started playing with the Toys and Joys Hi Track Dozer-81 last week.
> I had built one using the plans that the Wood Magazine sells which is a toy build but I mixed things up taking ideas from the pictures of the Toys and Joys Hi Track Dozer. Project post is here.
> This was my first try at a true model build from plans, but even then I went off the reservation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what I've got done so far.


I cant believe just how fast you are #4 I just blinked and this fine dozer appeared LOL :<))


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer*
> 
> Started playing with the Toys and Joys Hi Track Dozer-81 last week.
> I had built one using the plans that the Wood Magazine sells which is a toy build but I mixed things up taking ideas from the pictures of the Toys and Joys Hi Track Dozer. Project post is here.
> This was my first try at a true model build from plans, but even then I went off the reservation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what I've got done so far.


Man you are moving eight along. I am looking forward to seeing the finished product.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer*
> 
> Started playing with the Toys and Joys Hi Track Dozer-81 last week.
> I had built one using the plans that the Wood Magazine sells which is a toy build but I mixed things up taking ideas from the pictures of the Toys and Joys Hi Track Dozer. Project post is here.
> This was my first try at a true model build from plans, but even then I went off the reservation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what I've got done so far.


I'll get slowed way down once I start on the tracks but at least I can use some jigs for that.
I had thought that this dozer used the same treads as the smaller T&J Dozer and Excavator but they are some what different, fun is on it's way. ?

You all should have never showed me how to use these things. ?


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer*
> 
> Started playing with the Toys and Joys Hi Track Dozer-81 last week.
> I had built one using the plans that the Wood Magazine sells which is a toy build but I mixed things up taking ideas from the pictures of the Toys and Joys Hi Track Dozer. Project post is here.
> This was my first try at a true model build from plans, but even then I went off the reservation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what I've got done so far.


The tracks may slow you down a little but the bones of the project surely haven't Bruce… great start.


----------



## JulianLech

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer*
> 
> Started playing with the Toys and Joys Hi Track Dozer-81 last week.
> I had built one using the plans that the Wood Magazine sells which is a toy build but I mixed things up taking ideas from the pictures of the Toys and Joys Hi Track Dozer. Project post is here.
> This was my first try at a true model build from plans, but even then I went off the reservation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what I've got done so far.


Great looking bull dozer.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer*
> 
> Started playing with the Toys and Joys Hi Track Dozer-81 last week.
> I had built one using the plans that the Wood Magazine sells which is a toy build but I mixed things up taking ideas from the pictures of the Toys and Joys Hi Track Dozer. Project post is here.
> This was my first try at a true model build from plans, but even then I went off the reservation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what I've got done so far.


Another nice one.


----------



## woodshaver

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer*
> 
> Started playing with the Toys and Joys Hi Track Dozer-81 last week.
> I had built one using the plans that the Wood Magazine sells which is a toy build but I mixed things up taking ideas from the pictures of the Toys and Joys Hi Track Dozer. Project post is here.
> This was my first try at a true model build from plans, but even then I went off the reservation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what I've got done so far.


Awesome work htl. Lots of good stuff here to see!


----------



## hookfoot

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer*
> 
> Started playing with the Toys and Joys Hi Track Dozer-81 last week.
> I had built one using the plans that the Wood Magazine sells which is a toy build but I mixed things up taking ideas from the pictures of the Toys and Joys Hi Track Dozer. Project post is here.
> This was my first try at a true model build from plans, but even then I went off the reservation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what I've got done so far.


Beautiful project.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer*
> 
> Started playing with the Toys and Joys Hi Track Dozer-81 last week.
> I had built one using the plans that the Wood Magazine sells which is a toy build but I mixed things up taking ideas from the pictures of the Toys and Joys Hi Track Dozer. Project post is here.
> This was my first try at a true model build from plans, but even then I went off the reservation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what I've got done so far.


Thanks all!!!
And Dutchy I just went and reread my blog on the Wood Magazine build and had forgotten how much you had helped and encouraged me on that build, that's one of the great things about blogging your builds, you can go back later and be reminded of what you did right and wrong with a build, and head off some headaches.


----------



## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer*
> 
> Started playing with the Toys and Joys Hi Track Dozer-81 last week.
> I had built one using the plans that the Wood Magazine sells which is a toy build but I mixed things up taking ideas from the pictures of the Toys and Joys Hi Track Dozer. Project post is here.
> This was my first try at a true model build from plans, but even then I went off the reservation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what I've got done so far.


Fantastic so far!

Plans are a place to start FROM; not the destination!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer*
> 
> Started playing with the Toys and Joys Hi Track Dozer-81 last week.
> I had built one using the plans that the Wood Magazine sells which is a toy build but I mixed things up taking ideas from the pictures of the Toys and Joys Hi Track Dozer. Project post is here.
> This was my first try at a true model build from plans, but even then I went off the reservation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what I've got done so far.


ralbuck Your a little late to the party, this was finished last week. LOL
But I do appreciate the comment.


----------



## htl

*Hi Track Dozer Building the treads*

I need to build the treads so I can be sure to get everything lined up.
Building the treads is a very time consuming part of any project.
I cut out the treads, then shaped them, then drilled over 300 holes for the pivot points.
Then I made a jig to hold all the parts so I could cut them all the same.

*I need to add that the jig I made came from Dutchy's blog, thanks again for all his fine help and encouragement.
*



























I used double sided tape to help hold the parts in place for cutting.
I should add that I used a bar clamp the squeezed the parts from the end then nailed the end to keep everything in place.


















Then turn the parts over and cut the other side.



















Then sand sand sand and 10 hours from when I started them I have my treads.










*I added more in the comments.
*


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer Building the treads*
> 
> I need to build the treads so I can be sure to get everything lined up.
> Building the treads is a very time consuming part of any project.
> I cut out the treads, then shaped them, then drilled over 300 holes for the pivot points.
> Then I made a jig to hold all the parts so I could cut them all the same.
> 
> *I need to add that the jig I made came from Dutchy's blog, thanks again for all his fine help and encouragement.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used double sided tape to help hold the parts in place for cutting.
> I should add that I used a bar clamp the squeezed the parts from the end then nailed the end to keep everything in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then turn the parts over and cut the other side.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Then sand sand sand and 10 hours from when I started them I have my treads.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I added more in the comments.
> *


very nice :<))


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## woodshaver

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer Building the treads*
> 
> I need to build the treads so I can be sure to get everything lined up.
> Building the treads is a very time consuming part of any project.
> I cut out the treads, then shaped them, then drilled over 300 holes for the pivot points.
> Then I made a jig to hold all the parts so I could cut them all the same.
> 
> *I need to add that the jig I made came from Dutchy's blog, thanks again for all his fine help and encouragement.
> *
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> I used double sided tape to help hold the parts in place for cutting.
> I should add that I used a bar clamp the squeezed the parts from the end then nailed the end to keep everything in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> Then turn the parts over and cut the other side.
> 
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> 
> 
> Then sand sand sand and 10 hours from when I started them I have my treads.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I added more in the comments.
> *


Very interesting htl.


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer Building the treads*
> 
> I need to build the treads so I can be sure to get everything lined up.
> Building the treads is a very time consuming part of any project.
> I cut out the treads, then shaped them, then drilled over 300 holes for the pivot points.
> Then I made a jig to hold all the parts so I could cut them all the same.
> 
> *I need to add that the jig I made came from Dutchy's blog, thanks again for all his fine help and encouragement.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> I used double sided tape to help hold the parts in place for cutting.
> I should add that I used a bar clamp the squeezed the parts from the end then nailed the end to keep everything in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Then turn the parts over and cut the other side.
> 
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> 
> Then sand sand sand and 10 hours from when I started them I have my treads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I added more in the comments.
> *


WOW-way past my skills and patience both!


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## oldsawtooth

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer Building the treads*
> 
> I need to build the treads so I can be sure to get everything lined up.
> Building the treads is a very time consuming part of any project.
> I cut out the treads, then shaped them, then drilled over 300 holes for the pivot points.
> Then I made a jig to hold all the parts so I could cut them all the same.
> 
> *I need to add that the jig I made came from Dutchy's blog, thanks again for all his fine help and encouragement.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> I used double sided tape to help hold the parts in place for cutting.
> I should add that I used a bar clamp the squeezed the parts from the end then nailed the end to keep everything in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Then turn the parts over and cut the other side.
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> Then sand sand sand and 10 hours from when I started them I have my treads.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I added more in the comments.
> *


Great build brother, I also see I'm not the only one who Save's coffee can's for parts bucket


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## hookfoot

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer Building the treads*
> 
> I need to build the treads so I can be sure to get everything lined up.
> Building the treads is a very time consuming part of any project.
> I cut out the treads, then shaped them, then drilled over 300 holes for the pivot points.
> Then I made a jig to hold all the parts so I could cut them all the same.
> 
> *I need to add that the jig I made came from Dutchy's blog, thanks again for all his fine help and encouragement.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> I used double sided tape to help hold the parts in place for cutting.
> I should add that I used a bar clamp the squeezed the parts from the end then nailed the end to keep everything in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Then turn the parts over and cut the other side.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Then sand sand sand and 10 hours from when I started them I have my treads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I added more in the comments.
> *


Great job. Cut, flip, cut, drill and sand and sand and sand(plus a little talking to your self) and you eventually have track.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer Building the treads*
> 
> I need to build the treads so I can be sure to get everything lined up.
> Building the treads is a very time consuming part of any project.
> I cut out the treads, then shaped them, then drilled over 300 holes for the pivot points.
> Then I made a jig to hold all the parts so I could cut them all the same.
> 
> *I need to add that the jig I made came from Dutchy's blog, thanks again for all his fine help and encouragement.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used double sided tape to help hold the parts in place for cutting.
> I should add that I used a bar clamp the squeezed the parts from the end then nailed the end to keep everything in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Then turn the parts over and cut the other side.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sand sand sand and 10 hours from when I started them I have my treads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I added more in the comments.
> *





> Great job. Cut, flip, cut, drill and sand and sand and sand(plus a little talking to your self) and you eventually have track.
> 
> - hookfoot


I would say a *lot of talking to yourself.*


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer Building the treads*
> 
> I need to build the treads so I can be sure to get everything lined up.
> Building the treads is a very time consuming part of any project.
> I cut out the treads, then shaped them, then drilled over 300 holes for the pivot points.
> Then I made a jig to hold all the parts so I could cut them all the same.
> 
> *I need to add that the jig I made came from Dutchy's blog, thanks again for all his fine help and encouragement.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used double sided tape to help hold the parts in place for cutting.
> I should add that I used a bar clamp the squeezed the parts from the end then nailed the end to keep everything in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Then turn the parts over and cut the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sand sand sand and 10 hours from when I started them I have my treads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I added more in the comments.
> *


Superbly done Bruce… Clever innovation to make a fiddly part easy!!


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## htl

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer Building the treads*
> 
> I need to build the treads so I can be sure to get everything lined up.
> Building the treads is a very time consuming part of any project.
> I cut out the treads, then shaped them, then drilled over 300 holes for the pivot points.
> Then I made a jig to hold all the parts so I could cut them all the same.
> 
> *I need to add that the jig I made came from Dutchy's blog, thanks again for all his fine help and encouragement.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used double sided tape to help hold the parts in place for cutting.
> I should add that I used a bar clamp the squeezed the parts from the end then nailed the end to keep everything in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then turn the parts over and cut the other side.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sand sand sand and 10 hours from when I started them I have my treads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I added more in the comments.
> *


Put in some hours but it's getting there..








I needed to put this together so i could figure out how many treads were needed.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer Building the treads*
> 
> I need to build the treads so I can be sure to get everything lined up.
> Building the treads is a very time consuming part of any project.
> I cut out the treads, then shaped them, then drilled over 300 holes for the pivot points.
> Then I made a jig to hold all the parts so I could cut them all the same.
> 
> *I need to add that the jig I made came from Dutchy's blog, thanks again for all his fine help and encouragement.
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> I used double sided tape to help hold the parts in place for cutting.
> I should add that I used a bar clamp the squeezed the parts from the end then nailed the end to keep everything in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then turn the parts over and cut the other side.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sand sand sand and 10 hours from when I started them I have my treads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I added more in the comments.
> *


Bruce, I hope you've left a few toothpicks for the table…..


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## woodshaver

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer Building the treads*
> 
> I need to build the treads so I can be sure to get everything lined up.
> Building the treads is a very time consuming part of any project.
> I cut out the treads, then shaped them, then drilled over 300 holes for the pivot points.
> Then I made a jig to hold all the parts so I could cut them all the same.
> 
> *I need to add that the jig I made came from Dutchy's blog, thanks again for all his fine help and encouragement.
> *
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used double sided tape to help hold the parts in place for cutting.
> I should add that I used a bar clamp the squeezed the parts from the end then nailed the end to keep everything in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Then turn the parts over and cut the other side.
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> Then sand sand sand and 10 hours from when I started them I have my treads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I added more in the comments.
> *


Looking good! Knowing you Bruce;l I can say you will definitely get there no doubt about it! Hope those toothpicks are in spec….


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer Building the treads*
> 
> I need to build the treads so I can be sure to get everything lined up.
> Building the treads is a very time consuming part of any project.
> I cut out the treads, then shaped them, then drilled over 300 holes for the pivot points.
> Then I made a jig to hold all the parts so I could cut them all the same.
> 
> *I need to add that the jig I made came from Dutchy's blog, thanks again for all his fine help and encouragement.
> *
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> I used double sided tape to help hold the parts in place for cutting.
> I should add that I used a bar clamp the squeezed the parts from the end then nailed the end to keep everything in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> Then turn the parts over and cut the other side.
> 
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> 
> Then sand sand sand and 10 hours from when I started them I have my treads.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I added more in the comments.
> *


nice progress #4 :<))


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## htl

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer Building the treads*
> 
> I need to build the treads so I can be sure to get everything lined up.
> Building the treads is a very time consuming part of any project.
> I cut out the treads, then shaped them, then drilled over 300 holes for the pivot points.
> Then I made a jig to hold all the parts so I could cut them all the same.
> 
> *I need to add that the jig I made came from Dutchy's blog, thanks again for all his fine help and encouragement.
> *
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> I used double sided tape to help hold the parts in place for cutting.
> I should add that I used a bar clamp the squeezed the parts from the end then nailed the end to keep everything in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> Then turn the parts over and cut the other side.
> 
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> 
> Then sand sand sand and 10 hours from when I started them I have my treads.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I added more in the comments.
> *


This is the Ben-Hur version.


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## htl

*Hi Track Dozer a little more progress*

Got both tracks ready but just the one to see how it all fits.













































*I added more below.*


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer a little more progress*
> 
> Got both tracks ready but just the one to see how it all fits.
> 
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> *I added more below.*


*Looking GOOD!*


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer a little more progress*
> 
> Got both tracks ready but just the one to see how it all fits.
> 
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> *I added more below.*


ABSOLUTELY!


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## htl

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer a little more progress*
> 
> Got both tracks ready but just the one to see how it all fits.
> 
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> *I added more below.*


I was thinking I was getting near the end then it hit me I still need the blade and the plow thingy.


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## johnstoneb

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer a little more progress*
> 
> Got both tracks ready but just the one to see how it all fits.
> 
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> *I added more below.*


That looks good


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer a little more progress*
> 
> Got both tracks ready but just the one to see how it all fits.
> 
> 
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> *I added more below.*


the seat looks interesting cant wait to see more … LOOKS GREAT :<))


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## Budster

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer a little more progress*
> 
> Got both tracks ready but just the one to see how it all fits.
> 
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> *I added more below.*


When I grow up I want to make beautiful toys just like you… another great job..


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer a little more progress*
> 
> Got both tracks ready but just the one to see how it all fits.
> 
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> *I added more below.*


You are still way faster at doing a beaut job of model making than I, Bruce… looks great sir!!


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## htl

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer a little more progress*
> 
> Got both tracks ready but just the one to see how it all fits.
> 
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> *I added more below.*


Got playing with the engine today.
I just build this from scraps on hand so it is what it is. :-[

I used ideas I got from looking at hookfoot's wonderful project for the motor.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer a little more progress*
> 
> Got both tracks ready but just the one to see how it all fits.
> 
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> *I added more below.*


Woo Who.. the machine has an engine!


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## hookfoot

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer a little more progress*
> 
> Got both tracks ready but just the one to see how it all fits.
> 
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> *I added more below.*


Love the engine. Anything is possible as long as we use that little bit of matter between our ears.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer a little more progress*
> 
> Got both tracks ready but just the one to see how it all fits.
> 
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> *I added more below.*





> When I grow up I want to make beautiful toys just like you… another great job..
> 
> - Orvile Baker


Orvile My growing up ended a long long time ago but I'm trying to grow in my model building even as my body starts acting up on me.
69 come August.


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## htl

*Hi Track Dozer It's time to make the blade*

There's some very interesting table saw set ups to get this done.
You may have noticed two different woods being used but half way through I saw That I wanted walnut tips so cut out the maple and then glued on so walnut.
I don't back up very often but knew this would look ten times nicer. [I don't have much walnut]
I take just a half turn of the height adjustment at a time and even less on the last pass going very slowly to cut down on saw marks, that will needed to be sanded out.









The bottom plywood is the base of my wheel making jig, so there's table saw runners under that ply to help keep it from moving.
Just one clamp holds it in place.
































































I think this just may work.
It's a tad deeper than the plans call for.









I used to build my cabinet projects with this same table saw setups.









So here's what's done so far.
Man that's one wide blade, may need to shorten it a little.


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer It's time to make the blade*
> 
> There's some very interesting table saw set ups to get this done.
> You may have noticed two different woods being used but half way through I saw That I wanted walnut tips so cut out the maple and then glued on so walnut.
> I don't back up very often but knew this would look ten times nicer. [I don't have much walnut]
> I take just a half turn of the height adjustment at a time and even less on the last pass going very slowly to cut down on saw marks, that will needed to be sanded out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bottom plywood is the base of my wheel making jig, so there's table saw runners under that ply to help keep it from moving.
> Just one clamp holds it in place.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> I think this just may work.
> It's a tad deeper than the plans call for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used to build my cabinet projects with this same table saw setups.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's what's done so far.
> Man that's one wide blade, may need to shorten it a little.


Neat jig.

I am sure there will be many others that use all or part of this idea to make other jigs too!
I bet all of L-J appreciate this, Thanks.


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer It's time to make the blade*
> 
> There's some very interesting table saw set ups to get this done.
> You may have noticed two different woods being used but half way through I saw That I wanted walnut tips so cut out the maple and then glued on so walnut.
> I don't back up very often but knew this would look ten times nicer. [I don't have much walnut]
> I take just a half turn of the height adjustment at a time and even less on the last pass going very slowly to cut down on saw marks, that will needed to be sanded out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bottom plywood is the base of my wheel making jig, so there's table saw runners under that ply to help keep it from moving.
> Just one clamp holds it in place.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> I think this just may work.
> It's a tad deeper than the plans call for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used to build my cabinet projects with this same table saw setups.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's what's done so far.
> Man that's one wide blade, may need to shorten it a little.


I use this method to do some of the cove moldings I use on some Furniture. Works good but can be dangerous if you don't use very fine cuts and the jig holds the material securely. I had a large piece of Cherry rip two teeth off a 10" Carbide blade, there was no other damage so *be CAREFUL.*


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## htl

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer It's time to make the blade*
> 
> There's some very interesting table saw set ups to get this done.
> You may have noticed two different woods being used but half way through I saw That I wanted walnut tips so cut out the maple and then glued on so walnut.
> I don't back up very often but knew this would look ten times nicer. [I don't have much walnut]
> I take just a half turn of the height adjustment at a time and even less on the last pass going very slowly to cut down on saw marks, that will needed to be sanded out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bottom plywood is the base of my wheel making jig, so there's table saw runners under that ply to help keep it from moving.
> Just one clamp holds it in place.
> 
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> 
> I think this just may work.
> It's a tad deeper than the plans call for.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used to build my cabinet projects with this same table saw setups.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's what's done so far.
> Man that's one wide blade, may need to shorten it a little.


Oldriver I think I took off around a 1/16 at a time so the saw hardly knew it had wood going over it.
As you can see I used a two fence jig.
Slow and safe wins the race!!!

It would sound like you may have hit a stone or something in the wood to bust off teeth, me thinks.
It bit down on a cherry seed and broke a tooth. ?


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## johnstoneb

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer It's time to make the blade*
> 
> There's some very interesting table saw set ups to get this done.
> You may have noticed two different woods being used but half way through I saw That I wanted walnut tips so cut out the maple and then glued on so walnut.
> I don't back up very often but knew this would look ten times nicer. [I don't have much walnut]
> I take just a half turn of the height adjustment at a time and even less on the last pass going very slowly to cut down on saw marks, that will needed to be sanded out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bottom plywood is the base of my wheel making jig, so there's table saw runners under that ply to help keep it from moving.
> Just one clamp holds it in place.
> 
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> 
> I think this just may work.
> It's a tad deeper than the plans call for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used to build my cabinet projects with this same table saw setups.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's what's done so far.
> Man that's one wide blade, may need to shorten it a little.


That long blade and shape could actually be a special order option for that dozer.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer It's time to make the blade*
> 
> There's some very interesting table saw set ups to get this done.
> You may have noticed two different woods being used but half way through I saw That I wanted walnut tips so cut out the maple and then glued on so walnut.
> I don't back up very often but knew this would look ten times nicer. [I don't have much walnut]
> I take just a half turn of the height adjustment at a time and even less on the last pass going very slowly to cut down on saw marks, that will needed to be sanded out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bottom plywood is the base of my wheel making jig, so there's table saw runners under that ply to help keep it from moving.
> Just one clamp holds it in place.
> 
> 
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> 
> I think this just may work.
> It's a tad deeper than the plans call for.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used to build my cabinet projects with this same table saw setups.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's what's done so far.
> Man that's one wide blade, may need to shorten it a little.


john  That's so true!
but if it don't fit on a shelf some where the better half may just throw them all out and me with them!!!
Sad but very true. lol


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## chief101

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer It's time to make the blade*
> 
> There's some very interesting table saw set ups to get this done.
> You may have noticed two different woods being used but half way through I saw That I wanted walnut tips so cut out the maple and then glued on so walnut.
> I don't back up very often but knew this would look ten times nicer. [I don't have much walnut]
> I take just a half turn of the height adjustment at a time and even less on the last pass going very slowly to cut down on saw marks, that will needed to be sanded out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bottom plywood is the base of my wheel making jig, so there's table saw runners under that ply to help keep it from moving.
> Just one clamp holds it in place.
> 
> 
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> 
> I think this just may work.
> It's a tad deeper than the plans call for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used to build my cabinet projects with this same table saw setups.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's what's done so far.
> Man that's one wide blade, may need to shorten it a little.


Wow is an understatement.


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## hookfoot

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer It's time to make the blade*
> 
> There's some very interesting table saw set ups to get this done.
> You may have noticed two different woods being used but half way through I saw That I wanted walnut tips so cut out the maple and then glued on so walnut.
> I don't back up very often but knew this would look ten times nicer. [I don't have much walnut]
> I take just a half turn of the height adjustment at a time and even less on the last pass going very slowly to cut down on saw marks, that will needed to be sanded out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bottom plywood is the base of my wheel making jig, so there's table saw runners under that ply to help keep it from moving.
> Just one clamp holds it in place.
> 
> 
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> 
> I think this just may work.
> It's a tad deeper than the plans call for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used to build my cabinet projects with this same table saw setups.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's what's done so far.
> Man that's one wide blade, may need to shorten it a little.


When I am making a cove cut for dozer blades(a few) I use an eighty tooth carbide blade and ONLT RAISE THE BLADE 1/16th inch per pass and have never had any problems. Not a fast job. People that need to make a cove fast need a different way. My thinking. I am not normally this long winded.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer It's time to make the blade*
> 
> There's some very interesting table saw set ups to get this done.
> You may have noticed two different woods being used but half way through I saw That I wanted walnut tips so cut out the maple and then glued on so walnut.
> I don't back up very often but knew this would look ten times nicer. [I don't have much walnut]
> I take just a half turn of the height adjustment at a time and even less on the last pass going very slowly to cut down on saw marks, that will needed to be sanded out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bottom plywood is the base of my wheel making jig, so there's table saw runners under that ply to help keep it from moving.
> Just one clamp holds it in place.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> I think this just may work.
> It's a tad deeper than the plans call for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used to build my cabinet projects with this same table saw setups.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's what's done so far.
> Man that's one wide blade, may need to shorten it a little.


As I used to have posted at the bottom of my comments.
"There's a hundred way to do anything, a lot depends on the tools at hand and the experience of the user."

All I can show is the way I have figured out how to do things and from copying what I learn around here and other sites, and hope I'm able to help others as I have been helped.
There's always those with more patience and skill and I love to see their work and learn from it.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer It's time to make the blade*
> 
> There's some very interesting table saw set ups to get this done.
> You may have noticed two different woods being used but half way through I saw That I wanted walnut tips so cut out the maple and then glued on so walnut.
> I don't back up very often but knew this would look ten times nicer. [I don't have much walnut]
> I take just a half turn of the height adjustment at a time and even less on the last pass going very slowly to cut down on saw marks, that will needed to be sanded out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bottom plywood is the base of my wheel making jig, so there's table saw runners under that ply to help keep it from moving.
> Just one clamp holds it in place.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> I think this just may work.
> It's a tad deeper than the plans call for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used to build my cabinet projects with this same table saw setups.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's what's done so far.
> Man that's one wide blade, may need to shorten it a little.


The blade looks amazing Bruce..well done!


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## htl

*Hi Track Dozer Building the ripper tine*

I had it in my head I was done but after 3 days out of the shop I jumped back [or should I say crawled] into the shop and built the ripper tine.

It was pretty complicated but interesting.


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer Building the ripper tine*
> 
> I had it in my head I was done but after 3 days out of the shop I jumped back [or should I say crawled] into the shop and built the ripper tine.
> 
> It was pretty complicated but interesting.


Very nice Bruce.


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer Building the ripper tine*
> 
> I had it in my head I was done but after 3 days out of the shop I jumped back [or should I say crawled] into the shop and built the ripper tine.
> 
> It was pretty complicated but interesting.


That is a sweet addition.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer Building the ripper tine*
> 
> I had it in my head I was done but after 3 days out of the shop I jumped back [or should I say crawled] into the shop and built the ripper tine.
> 
> It was pretty complicated but interesting.


WOW #4 that ripper just added a whole new level to this fine looking dozer …. GREAT JOB :<))


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer Building the ripper tine*
> 
> I had it in my head I was done but after 3 days out of the shop I jumped back [or should I say crawled] into the shop and built the ripper tine.
> 
> It was pretty complicated but interesting.





> WOW #4 that ripper just added a whole new level to this fine looking dozer …. GREAT JOB :<))
> 
> - GR8HUNTER


WOW ++ WOW!


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## Jason1974

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer Building the ripper tine*
> 
> I had it in my head I was done but after 3 days out of the shop I jumped back [or should I say crawled] into the shop and built the ripper tine.
> 
> It was pretty complicated but interesting.


Speachless……….

Awesome, Just awesome!!!


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## bushmaster

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer Building the ripper tine*
> 
> I had it in my head I was done but after 3 days out of the shop I jumped back [or should I say crawled] into the shop and built the ripper tine.
> 
> It was pretty complicated but interesting.


Its a beauty. Well crafted.


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## Redoak49

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer Building the ripper tine*
> 
> I had it in my head I was done but after 3 days out of the shop I jumped back [or should I say crawled] into the shop and built the ripper tine.
> 
> It was pretty complicated but interesting.


The details are outstanding. I really like the hydraulic cylinders.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer Building the ripper tine*
> 
> I had it in my head I was done but after 3 days out of the shop I jumped back [or should I say crawled] into the shop and built the ripper tine.
> 
> It was pretty complicated but interesting.


Now that really sets a good model off.. top job Bruce.


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## hookfoot

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer Building the ripper tine*
> 
> I had it in my head I was done but after 3 days out of the shop I jumped back [or should I say crawled] into the shop and built the ripper tine.
> 
> It was pretty complicated but interesting.


Beautiful. The detail is very nice.


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## Budster

htl said:


> *Hi Track Dozer Building the ripper tine*
> 
> I had it in my head I was done but after 3 days out of the shop I jumped back [or should I say crawled] into the shop and built the ripper tine.
> 
> It was pretty complicated but interesting.


Beautiful work htl .


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## htl

*Semi Truck T&J #2*

Started on another semi truck, been thinking about building a trailer and thought it would be nice to have the truck ready for it.
Doing it this way I'll make all the tires at one time and they'll all match up, which has been a problem some times.
I never seem to make them the same way. :-[
Just some quick shots before I headed out the door.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Semi Truck T&J #2*
> 
> Started on another semi truck, been thinking about building a trailer and thought it would be nice to have the truck ready for it.
> Doing it this way I'll make all the tires at one time and they'll all match up, which has been a problem some times.
> I never seem to make them the same way. :-[
> Just some quick shots before I headed out the door.


You are certainly well progressed in the build Bruce… looking good sir!!


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## htl

htl said:


> *Semi Truck T&J #2*
> 
> Started on another semi truck, been thinking about building a trailer and thought it would be nice to have the truck ready for it.
> Doing it this way I'll make all the tires at one time and they'll all match up, which has been a problem some times.
> I never seem to make them the same way. :-[
> Just some quick shots before I headed out the door.


Crowie I started it yesterday but forgot the camera so two days worth a pictures.
This is my second T&J Semi, the first blog is here.


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Semi Truck T&J #2*
> 
> Started on another semi truck, been thinking about building a trailer and thought it would be nice to have the truck ready for it.
> Doing it this way I'll make all the tires at one time and they'll all match up, which has been a problem some times.
> I never seem to make them the same way. :-[
> Just some quick shots before I headed out the door.


Moving right along and looking good at it.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Semi Truck T&J #2*
> 
> Started on another semi truck, been thinking about building a trailer and thought it would be nice to have the truck ready for it.
> Doing it this way I'll make all the tires at one time and they'll all match up, which has been a problem some times.
> I never seem to make them the same way. :-[
> Just some quick shots before I headed out the door.


keep up the great work #4 I do hope you are feeling better :<))


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Semi Truck T&J #2*
> 
> Started on another semi truck, been thinking about building a trailer and thought it would be nice to have the truck ready for it.
> Doing it this way I'll make all the tires at one time and they'll all match up, which has been a problem some times.
> I never seem to make them the same way. :-[
> Just some quick shots before I headed out the door.


Tony just doing what I can on the better days.


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Semi Truck T&J #2*
> 
> Started on another semi truck, been thinking about building a trailer and thought it would be nice to have the truck ready for it.
> Doing it this way I'll make all the tires at one time and they'll all match up, which has been a problem some times.
> I never seem to make them the same way. :-[
> Just some quick shots before I headed out the door.


Your building speed is elusive. Looking forward….......


----------



## Redoak49

htl said:


> *Semi Truck T&J #2*
> 
> Started on another semi truck, been thinking about building a trailer and thought it would be nice to have the truck ready for it.
> Doing it this way I'll make all the tires at one time and they'll all match up, which has been a problem some times.
> I never seem to make them the same way. :-[
> Just some quick shots before I headed out the door.


Love your blogs and builds


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## hookfoot

htl said:


> *Semi Truck T&J #2*
> 
> Started on another semi truck, been thinking about building a trailer and thought it would be nice to have the truck ready for it.
> Doing it this way I'll make all the tires at one time and they'll all match up, which has been a problem some times.
> I never seem to make them the same way. :-[
> Just some quick shots before I headed out the door.


Great work.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Semi Truck T&J #2*
> 
> Started on another semi truck, been thinking about building a trailer and thought it would be nice to have the truck ready for it.
> Doing it this way I'll make all the tires at one time and they'll all match up, which has been a problem some times.
> I never seem to make them the same way. :-[
> Just some quick shots before I headed out the door.


Dutchy I've built this one before and a couple close to it so pretty well got it figured out, except when I go off plan, then trouble isn't far behind. lol


----------



## htl

*Semi Truck T&J #3*

Got a little more done, and my cabinet shop friend gave my a bunch a walnut scraps so happy camper over here.


























































































That's it for today but it's coming along.
And thanks all for checking in and commenting.


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## oldsawtooth

htl said:


> *Semi Truck T&J #3*
> 
> Got a little more done, and my cabinet shop friend gave my a bunch a walnut scraps so happy camper over here.
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> That's it for today but it's coming along.
> And thanks all for checking in and commenting.


Awesome looking forward to seeing the finished product!!


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## sras

htl said:


> *Semi Truck T&J #3*
> 
> Got a little more done, and my cabinet shop friend gave my a bunch a walnut scraps so happy camper over here.
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> That's it for today but it's coming along.
> And thanks all for checking in and commenting.


Always fun to watch your progress!


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Semi Truck T&J #3*
> 
> Got a little more done, and my cabinet shop friend gave my a bunch a walnut scraps so happy camper over here.
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> That's it for today but it's coming along.
> And thanks all for checking in and commenting.


In layers. Nice.


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## helluvawreck

htl said:


> *Semi Truck T&J #3*
> 
> Got a little more done, and my cabinet shop friend gave my a bunch a walnut scraps so happy camper over here.
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> That's it for today but it's coming along.
> And thanks all for checking in and commenting.


Wow! This is going to be a wonderful model and this workmanship is fabulous. It's going to be nice to see it after you are finished.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Semi Truck T&J #3*
> 
> Got a little more done, and my cabinet shop friend gave my a bunch a walnut scraps so happy camper over here.
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> That's it for today but it's coming along.
> And thanks all for checking in and commenting.


How many truckers can say the inside of their trucks are paneled with walnut?


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## htl

*Semi Truck 3.5*

Again got a little more done.
Fixed up the front wheel wells and made the sleeper.


























And playing with a steerable front end, it may not work but its a fun experiment.
I kind a like it when the front tires are not pointed to the front, just adds that little extra.

These will probable be the front wheels I use but will need to make a ton a back wheels for truck and a trailer.



















Been trying to come up with a way that the pivot point for the wheels is as close to the frame and tire as possible.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Semi Truck 3.5*
> 
> Again got a little more done.
> Fixed up the front wheel wells and made the sleeper.
> 
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> 
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> 
> And playing with a steerable front end, it may not work but its a fun experiment.
> I kind a like it when the front tires are not pointed to the front, just adds that little extra.
> 
> These will probable be the front wheels I use but will need to make a ton a back wheels for truck and a trailer.
> 
> 
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> 
> Been trying to come up with a way that the pivot point for the wheels is as close to the frame and tire as possible.


this is a very awesome way of doing the front suspension or turning im loving it thanks for sharing #4 ……. GREAT BLOG :<))


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Semi Truck 3.5*
> 
> Again got a little more done.
> Fixed up the front wheel wells and made the sleeper.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> And playing with a steerable front end, it may not work but its a fun experiment.
> I kind a like it when the front tires are not pointed to the front, just adds that little extra.
> 
> These will probable be the front wheels I use but will need to make a ton a back wheels for truck and a trailer.
> 
> 
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> 
> Been trying to come up with a way that the pivot point for the wheels is as close to the frame and tire as possible.


Just marvelous so far!


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## woodshaver

htl said:


> *Semi Truck 3.5*
> 
> Again got a little more done.
> Fixed up the front wheel wells and made the sleeper.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> And playing with a steerable front end, it may not work but its a fun experiment.
> I kind a like it when the front tires are not pointed to the front, just adds that little extra.
> 
> These will probable be the front wheels I use but will need to make a ton a back wheels for truck and a trailer.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Been trying to come up with a way that the pivot point for the wheels is as close to the frame and tire as possible.


Yes What Tony said…This is a super nice steering set up!


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## johnstoneb

htl said:


> *Semi Truck 3.5*
> 
> Again got a little more done.
> Fixed up the front wheel wells and made the sleeper.
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> And playing with a steerable front end, it may not work but its a fun experiment.
> I kind a like it when the front tires are not pointed to the front, just adds that little extra.
> 
> These will probable be the front wheels I use but will need to make a ton a back wheels for truck and a trailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Been trying to come up with a way that the pivot point for the wheels is as close to the frame and tire as possible.


I like that steering setup. I've been trying to come up with one for quite some time. That is too simple.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Semi Truck 3.5*
> 
> Again got a little more done.
> Fixed up the front wheel wells and made the sleeper.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> And playing with a steerable front end, it may not work but its a fun experiment.
> I kind a like it when the front tires are not pointed to the front, just adds that little extra.
> 
> These will probable be the front wheels I use but will need to make a ton a back wheels for truck and a trailer.
> 
> 
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> 
> Been trying to come up with a way that the pivot point for the wheels is as close to the frame and tire as possible.


Absolutely great Bruce. 
Love the new challenge you're tackling with the steering, well done.


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Semi Truck 3.5*
> 
> Again got a little more done.
> Fixed up the front wheel wells and made the sleeper.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> And playing with a steerable front end, it may not work but its a fun experiment.
> I kind a like it when the front tires are not pointed to the front, just adds that little extra.
> 
> These will probable be the front wheels I use but will need to make a ton a back wheels for truck and a trailer.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Been trying to come up with a way that the pivot point for the wheels is as close to the frame and tire as possible.


Another great idea Bruce, and a niice truck also.


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## Redoak49

htl said:


> *Semi Truck 3.5*
> 
> Again got a little more done.
> Fixed up the front wheel wells and made the sleeper.
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> And playing with a steerable front end, it may not work but its a fun experiment.
> I kind a like it when the front tires are not pointed to the front, just adds that little extra.
> 
> These will probable be the front wheels I use but will need to make a ton a back wheels for truck and a trailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Been trying to come up with a way that the pivot point for the wheels is as close to the frame and tire as possible.


Nice job and GREAT wheels.


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Semi Truck 3.5*
> 
> Again got a little more done.
> Fixed up the front wheel wells and made the sleeper.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> And playing with a steerable front end, it may not work but its a fun experiment.
> I kind a like it when the front tires are not pointed to the front, just adds that little extra.
> 
> These will probable be the front wheels I use but will need to make a ton a back wheels for truck and a trailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Been trying to come up with a way that the pivot point for the wheels is as close to the frame and tire as possible.


Looking good I like the steering mechanism.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Semi Truck 3.5*
> 
> Again got a little more done.
> Fixed up the front wheel wells and made the sleeper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> And playing with a steerable front end, it may not work but its a fun experiment.
> I kind a like it when the front tires are not pointed to the front, just adds that little extra.
> 
> These will probable be the front wheels I use but will need to make a ton a back wheels for truck and a trailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Been trying to come up with a way that the pivot point for the wheels is as close to the frame and tire as possible.





> this is a very awesome way of doing the front suspension or turning im loving it thanks for sharing #4 ……. GREAT BLOG :<))
> 
> - GR8HUNTER


Tony your comment got me to thinking, by doing it this way a front suspension shouldn't be to hard.


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## htl

*Semi Truck 4.5 Steering and walnut frame*

A few more pictures of the steering.









The center grove was a mistake I went to deep for the first cut, and I will add that I cut the grove out while it was still square lumber and drilled the axle hole, then cut it round and sanded to fit on the drum sander jig.






























































Then it hit me I had some walnut so why not a walnut frame to go with the truck.
I hadn't really liked the white oak at least I think that's what it is, has the oak grain but way to white for the rest of the project, so I'll have a frame for some other build.

So here's the start of the walnut frame and I'm making a new rear end to go with it.



























I know there's a hundred ways to get er done but this is what I've come up with for this build, so hope you all like it and if you have other ways, comment and show us your solutions. :-]

#4 over and out.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Semi Truck 4.5 Steering and walnut frame*
> 
> A few more pictures of the steering.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The center grove was a mistake I went to deep for the first cut, and I will add that I cut the grove out while it was still square lumber and drilled the axle hole, then cut it round and sanded to fit on the drum sander jig.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Then it hit me I had some walnut so why not a walnut frame to go with the truck.
> I hadn't really liked the white oak at least I think that's what it is, has the oak grain but way to white for the rest of the project, so I'll have a frame for some other build.
> 
> So here's the start of the walnut frame and I'm making a new rear end to go with it.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> I know there's a hundred ways to get er done but this is what I've come up with for this build, so hope you all like it and if you have other ways, comment and show us your solutions. :-]
> 
> #4 over and out.


The walnut frame is way nicer than the oak, Bruce!

On the steering; are you going all the way and connecting it to the steering wheel??


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## htl

htl said:


> *Semi Truck 4.5 Steering and walnut frame*
> 
> A few more pictures of the steering.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The center grove was a mistake I went to deep for the first cut, and I will add that I cut the grove out while it was still square lumber and drilled the axle hole, then cut it round and sanded to fit on the drum sander jig.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it hit me I had some walnut so why not a walnut frame to go with the truck.
> I hadn't really liked the white oak at least I think that's what it is, has the oak grain but way to white for the rest of the project, so I'll have a frame for some other build.
> 
> So here's the start of the walnut frame and I'm making a new rear end to go with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> I know there's a hundred ways to get er done but this is what I've come up with for this build, so hope you all like it and if you have other ways, comment and show us your solutions. :-]
> 
> #4 over and out.


No Crowie I don't think I'll even connect the two wheels together so they follow each other this time but will be taking a better look at it for the next build.
This is a poser so just needed to be able to turn the wheels to the side, but I may chance my mind down the road we'll see.


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## htl

*Semi Truck 4.5+2 Playing with some wheels*

Figures I'd get started with the wheels.
Making 20 of them, 8 for the truck and 8 for a trailer and then 4 extras for another car or maybe the trailer needs 12 wheels?.
I already have my fronts.
Glued up a bunch a walnut scraps and then band saw them round, then drill out the centers, and need I say sand, sand, sand. LOL









I left 1/8" to the back of the outside wheel center so the 1/4" axle holes will help line up the two tires for gluing up I will later drill out the center deeper so the rims can go in deeper and look more real.
Now we need to add some shape to the sides then off to the jigs for treading.


















I need to put in a longer all thread so I can do more tires at one time.
I could have used my other jig which can do more but it's set up for 40 treads per tire and as these are smaller wheels I thought 36 treads would look better and be stronger.










Got to have some rims.




































So that's all for today, and thanks for checking the project out.

Check out my index for more wheel making how to's.


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Semi Truck 4.5+2 Playing with some wheels*
> 
> Figures I'd get started with the wheels.
> Making 20 of them, 8 for the truck and 8 for a trailer and then 4 extras for another car or maybe the trailer needs 12 wheels?.
> I already have my fronts.
> Glued up a bunch a walnut scraps and then band saw them round, then drill out the centers, and need I say sand, sand, sand. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I left 1/8" to the back of the outside wheel center so the 1/4" axle holes will help line up the two tires for gluing up I will later drill out the center deeper so the rims can go in deeper and look more real.
> Now we need to add some shape to the sides then off to the jigs for treading.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to put in a longer all thread so I can do more tires at one time.
> I could have used my other jig which can do more but it's set up for 40 treads per tire and as these are smaller wheels I thought 36 treads would look better and be stronger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got to have some rims.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that's all for today, and thanks for checking the project out.
> 
> Check out my index for more wheel making how to's.


Looking good.

I have pictures somewhere of a semi that had 44 tires. It was used to haul the tubes for the huge windmills that the energy farms use.

In Washington and Oregon we see many trucks with huge amounts of wheels. 24-30 is not rare at all.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Semi Truck 4.5+2 Playing with some wheels*
> 
> Figures I'd get started with the wheels.
> Making 20 of them, 8 for the truck and 8 for a trailer and then 4 extras for another car or maybe the trailer needs 12 wheels?.
> I already have my fronts.
> Glued up a bunch a walnut scraps and then band saw them round, then drill out the centers, and need I say sand, sand, sand. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I left 1/8" to the back of the outside wheel center so the 1/4" axle holes will help line up the two tires for gluing up I will later drill out the center deeper so the rims can go in deeper and look more real.
> Now we need to add some shape to the sides then off to the jigs for treading.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to put in a longer all thread so I can do more tires at one time.
> I could have used my other jig which can do more but it's set up for 40 treads per tire and as these are smaller wheels I thought 36 treads would look better and be stronger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got to have some rims.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that's all for today, and thanks for checking the project out.
> 
> Check out my index for more wheel making how to's.


Ralbuck check out this outstanding model truck with 48 wheels on the trailer, It's here on Lumberjocks.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Semi Truck 4.5+2 Playing with some wheels*
> 
> Figures I'd get started with the wheels.
> Making 20 of them, 8 for the truck and 8 for a trailer and then 4 extras for another car or maybe the trailer needs 12 wheels?.
> I already have my fronts.
> Glued up a bunch a walnut scraps and then band saw them round, then drill out the centers, and need I say sand, sand, sand. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I left 1/8" to the back of the outside wheel center so the 1/4" axle holes will help line up the two tires for gluing up I will later drill out the center deeper so the rims can go in deeper and look more real.
> Now we need to add some shape to the sides then off to the jigs for treading.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to put in a longer all thread so I can do more tires at one time.
> I could have used my other jig which can do more but it's set up for 40 treads per tire and as these are smaller wheels I thought 36 treads would look better and be stronger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got to have some rims.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that's all for today, and thanks for checking the project out.
> 
> Check out my index for more wheel making how to's.


You are certainly a patient man Bruce and the wheels do turn out looking so good sir.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Semi Truck 4.5+2 Playing with some wheels*
> 
> Figures I'd get started with the wheels.
> Making 20 of them, 8 for the truck and 8 for a trailer and then 4 extras for another car or maybe the trailer needs 12 wheels?.
> I already have my fronts.
> Glued up a bunch a walnut scraps and then band saw them round, then drill out the centers, and need I say sand, sand, sand. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I left 1/8" to the back of the outside wheel center so the 1/4" axle holes will help line up the two tires for gluing up I will later drill out the center deeper so the rims can go in deeper and look more real.
> Now we need to add some shape to the sides then off to the jigs for treading.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to put in a longer all thread so I can do more tires at one time.
> I could have used my other jig which can do more but it's set up for 40 treads per tire and as these are smaller wheels I thought 36 treads would look better and be stronger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got to have some rims.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that's all for today, and thanks for checking the project out.
> 
> Check out my index for more wheel making how to's.


crowie you say I'm patient well maybe but the way I'm looking at this work is the tools are already set up, cut some extra parts and make them along with the first set they'll be done in a third the time with just a little extra effort.
Mass production at it's finest well maybe not finest but efficient.


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Semi Truck 4.5+2 Playing with some wheels*
> 
> Figures I'd get started with the wheels.
> Making 20 of them, 8 for the truck and 8 for a trailer and then 4 extras for another car or maybe the trailer needs 12 wheels?.
> I already have my fronts.
> Glued up a bunch a walnut scraps and then band saw them round, then drill out the centers, and need I say sand, sand, sand. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I left 1/8" to the back of the outside wheel center so the 1/4" axle holes will help line up the two tires for gluing up I will later drill out the center deeper so the rims can go in deeper and look more real.
> Now we need to add some shape to the sides then off to the jigs for treading.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to put in a longer all thread so I can do more tires at one time.
> I could have used my other jig which can do more but it's set up for 40 treads per tire and as these are smaller wheels I thought 36 treads would look better and be stronger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got to have some rims.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that's all for today, and thanks for checking the project out.
> 
> Check out my index for more wheel making how to's.


Hi-Tect operation, doing a good job.


----------



## darkmyble

htl said:


> *Semi Truck 4.5+2 Playing with some wheels*
> 
> Figures I'd get started with the wheels.
> Making 20 of them, 8 for the truck and 8 for a trailer and then 4 extras for another car or maybe the trailer needs 12 wheels?.
> I already have my fronts.
> Glued up a bunch a walnut scraps and then band saw them round, then drill out the centers, and need I say sand, sand, sand. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I left 1/8" to the back of the outside wheel center so the 1/4" axle holes will help line up the two tires for gluing up I will later drill out the center deeper so the rims can go in deeper and look more real.
> Now we need to add some shape to the sides then off to the jigs for treading.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to put in a longer all thread so I can do more tires at one time.
> I could have used my other jig which can do more but it's set up for 40 treads per tire and as these are smaller wheels I thought 36 treads would look better and be stronger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got to have some rims.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that's all for today, and thanks for checking the project out.
> 
> Check out my index for more wheel making how to's.


I like this.. The methodology and precision is fantastic. I'd be interested in seeing the whole process from raw to end result. How the centre hub profiles are made etc. Wheels are always one of the key components to making any model better and more realistic. Understanding how a pro does it helps immensely. Great post.. Very interesting indeed.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Semi Truck 4.5+2 Playing with some wheels*
> 
> Figures I'd get started with the wheels.
> Making 20 of them, 8 for the truck and 8 for a trailer and then 4 extras for another car or maybe the trailer needs 12 wheels?.
> I already have my fronts.
> Glued up a bunch a walnut scraps and then band saw them round, then drill out the centers, and need I say sand, sand, sand. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I left 1/8" to the back of the outside wheel center so the 1/4" axle holes will help line up the two tires for gluing up I will later drill out the center deeper so the rims can go in deeper and look more real.
> Now we need to add some shape to the sides then off to the jigs for treading.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to put in a longer all thread so I can do more tires at one time.
> I could have used my other jig which can do more but it's set up for 40 treads per tire and as these are smaller wheels I thought 36 treads would look better and be stronger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got to have some rims.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that's all for today, and thanks for checking the project out.
> 
> Check out my index for more wheel making how to's.


dark look at the bottom of my last post and follow the link.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Semi Truck 4.5+2 Playing with some wheels*
> 
> Figures I'd get started with the wheels.
> Making 20 of them, 8 for the truck and 8 for a trailer and then 4 extras for another car or maybe the trailer needs 12 wheels?.
> I already have my fronts.
> Glued up a bunch a walnut scraps and then band saw them round, then drill out the centers, and need I say sand, sand, sand. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I left 1/8" to the back of the outside wheel center so the 1/4" axle holes will help line up the two tires for gluing up I will later drill out the center deeper so the rims can go in deeper and look more real.
> Now we need to add some shape to the sides then off to the jigs for treading.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to put in a longer all thread so I can do more tires at one time.
> I could have used my other jig which can do more but it's set up for 40 treads per tire and as these are smaller wheels I thought 36 treads would look better and be stronger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got to have some rims.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that's all for today, and thanks for checking the project out.
> 
> Check out my index for more wheel making how to's.





> I like this.. The methodology and precision is fantastic. I d be interested in seeing the whole process from raw to end result. How the centre hub profiles are made etc. Wheels are always one of the key components to making any model better and more realistic. Understanding how a pro does it helps immensely. Great post.. Very interesting indeed.
> 
> - darkmyble


Darkmyble I'm no Pro as I build just for me.
I've been trying to come up with a nice tire that doesn't take weeks to build, and over a 3 year time span this is where I'm at now.
If you check out my blogs from day one you can see my progress, with Dutchy's help and a ton a searches I have combined a ton a different styles to be able to build a* fast, and safe* tire and rim.
There's always a better way but this is what works for me at this time.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Semi Truck 4.5+2 Playing with some wheels*
> 
> Figures I'd get started with the wheels.
> Making 20 of them, 8 for the truck and 8 for a trailer and then 4 extras for another car or maybe the trailer needs 12 wheels?.
> I already have my fronts.
> Glued up a bunch a walnut scraps and then band saw them round, then drill out the centers, and need I say sand, sand, sand. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I left 1/8" to the back of the outside wheel center so the 1/4" axle holes will help line up the two tires for gluing up I will later drill out the center deeper so the rims can go in deeper and look more real.
> Now we need to add some shape to the sides then off to the jigs for treading.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to put in a longer all thread so I can do more tires at one time.
> I could have used my other jig which can do more but it's set up for 40 treads per tire and as these are smaller wheels I thought 36 treads would look better and be stronger.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got to have some rims.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that's all for today, and thanks for checking the project out.
> 
> Check out my index for more wheel making how to's.





> I like this.. The methodology and precision is fantastic. I d be interested in seeing the whole process from raw to end result. How the centre hub profiles are made etc. Wheels are always one of the key components to making any model better and more realistic. Understanding how a pro does it helps immensely. Great post.. Very interesting indeed.
> 
> - darkmyble


Darkmyble The center hubs are 2" store bought wheels sanded down to fit in my tires, so I get the shape with out all the work and they come out all the same every time.
I know this is a very late reply but just noticed the post as I was rereading the post.


----------



## htl

*Semi Truck 8 Still playing with the wheels*

Just about got them setup.
I changed the rims a little bit from the last post.
I still can't make up my mind if I'm going to ebanize them or not, the black looks good but it tends to hide all the work put into the treads.
Here's how I cut the treads.
With the stop block and the blade only raised 3/16" or so it's not a problem to slide the tire up against the fence, then when it hits the stop roll the tire into the blade to make the cut.
This is like all things wood working if it doesn't feel right for you don't do it, I could build a jig for this but for me the stop block is my jig.


















Please remember also I'm using a very thin blade.




































I've got 4, 5 hour days figuring out these wheels but they're about done thank you very much..


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Semi Truck 8 Still playing with the wheels*
> 
> Just about got them setup.
> I changed the rims a little bit from the last post.
> I still can't make up my mind if I'm going to ebanize them or not, the black looks good but it tends to hide all the work put into the treads.
> Here's how I cut the treads.
> With the stop block and the blade only raised 3/16" or so it's not a problem to slide the tire up against the fence, then when it hits the stop roll the tire into the blade to make the cut.
> This is like all things wood working if it doesn't feel right for you don't do it, I could build a jig for this but for me the stop block is my jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please remember also I'm using a very thin blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got 4, 5 hour days figuring out these wheels but they're about done thank you very much..


I'm glad you decided against the ebonizing … I love them just like that … once you hit them with oil they will pop and come to life …. GREAT JOB :<))


----------



## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Semi Truck 8 Still playing with the wheels*
> 
> Just about got them setup.
> I changed the rims a little bit from the last post.
> I still can't make up my mind if I'm going to ebanize them or not, the black looks good but it tends to hide all the work put into the treads.
> Here's how I cut the treads.
> With the stop block and the blade only raised 3/16" or so it's not a problem to slide the tire up against the fence, then when it hits the stop roll the tire into the blade to make the cut.
> This is like all things wood working if it doesn't feel right for you don't do it, I could build a jig for this but for me the stop block is my jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please remember also I'm using a very thin blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got 4, 5 hour days figuring out these wheels but they're about done thank you very much..


Either way looks great.

I have to agree with Tony; wood toys look great-ALL WOOD looking !


----------



## Budster

htl said:


> *Semi Truck 8 Still playing with the wheels*
> 
> Just about got them setup.
> I changed the rims a little bit from the last post.
> I still can't make up my mind if I'm going to ebanize them or not, the black looks good but it tends to hide all the work put into the treads.
> Here's how I cut the treads.
> With the stop block and the blade only raised 3/16" or so it's not a problem to slide the tire up against the fence, then when it hits the stop roll the tire into the blade to make the cut.
> This is like all things wood working if it doesn't feel right for you don't do it, I could build a jig for this but for me the stop block is my jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please remember also I'm using a very thin blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got 4, 5 hour days figuring out these wheels but they're about done thank you very much..


looking good!


----------



## oldsawtooth

htl said:


> *Semi Truck 8 Still playing with the wheels*
> 
> Just about got them setup.
> I changed the rims a little bit from the last post.
> I still can't make up my mind if I'm going to ebanize them or not, the black looks good but it tends to hide all the work put into the treads.
> Here's how I cut the treads.
> With the stop block and the blade only raised 3/16" or so it's not a problem to slide the tire up against the fence, then when it hits the stop roll the tire into the blade to make the cut.
> This is like all things wood working if it doesn't feel right for you don't do it, I could build a jig for this but for me the stop block is my jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please remember also I'm using a very thin blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got 4, 5 hour days figuring out these wheels but they're about done thank you very much..


Brother that's some great looking wheels and tires awesome


----------



## Northwest29

htl said:


> *Semi Truck 8 Still playing with the wheels*
> 
> Just about got them setup.
> I changed the rims a little bit from the last post.
> I still can't make up my mind if I'm going to ebanize them or not, the black looks good but it tends to hide all the work put into the treads.
> Here's how I cut the treads.
> With the stop block and the blade only raised 3/16" or so it's not a problem to slide the tire up against the fence, then when it hits the stop roll the tire into the blade to make the cut.
> This is like all things wood working if it doesn't feel right for you don't do it, I could build a jig for this but for me the stop block is my jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please remember also I'm using a very thin blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got 4, 5 hour days figuring out these wheels but they're about done thank you very much..


Absolutely super work! 10+ Thanks for sharing your journey-


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Semi Truck 8 Still playing with the wheels*
> 
> Just about got them setup.
> I changed the rims a little bit from the last post.
> I still can't make up my mind if I'm going to ebanize them or not, the black looks good but it tends to hide all the work put into the treads.
> Here's how I cut the treads.
> With the stop block and the blade only raised 3/16" or so it's not a problem to slide the tire up against the fence, then when it hits the stop roll the tire into the blade to make the cut.
> This is like all things wood working if it doesn't feel right for you don't do it, I could build a jig for this but for me the stop block is my jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please remember also I'm using a very thin blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got 4, 5 hour days figuring out these wheels but they're about done thank you very much..


Wheels, wheels, wheels .


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Semi Truck 8 Still playing with the wheels*
> 
> Just about got them setup.
> I changed the rims a little bit from the last post.
> I still can't make up my mind if I'm going to ebanize them or not, the black looks good but it tends to hide all the work put into the treads.
> Here's how I cut the treads.
> With the stop block and the blade only raised 3/16" or so it's not a problem to slide the tire up against the fence, then when it hits the stop roll the tire into the blade to make the cut.
> This is like all things wood working if it doesn't feel right for you don't do it, I could build a jig for this but for me the stop block is my jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please remember also I'm using a very thin blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got 4, 5 hour days figuring out these wheels but they're about done thank you very much..


First class set of treads there Bruce…

You certainly have the patience of a saint doing all that fine fiddly detailing….top job sir!!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Semi Truck 8 Still playing with the wheels*
> 
> Just about got them setup.
> I changed the rims a little bit from the last post.
> I still can't make up my mind if I'm going to ebanize them or not, the black looks good but it tends to hide all the work put into the treads.
> Here's how I cut the treads.
> With the stop block and the blade only raised 3/16" or so it's not a problem to slide the tire up against the fence, then when it hits the stop roll the tire into the blade to make the cut.
> This is like all things wood working if it doesn't feel right for you don't do it, I could build a jig for this but for me the stop block is my jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please remember also I'm using a very thin blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got 4, 5 hour days figuring out these wheels but they're about done thank you very much..


Thanks all really appreciate the comments. ?


----------



## robscastle

htl said:


> *Semi Truck 8 Still playing with the wheels*
> 
> Just about got them setup.
> I changed the rims a little bit from the last post.
> I still can't make up my mind if I'm going to ebanize them or not, the black looks good but it tends to hide all the work put into the treads.
> Here's how I cut the treads.
> With the stop block and the blade only raised 3/16" or so it's not a problem to slide the tire up against the fence, then when it hits the stop roll the tire into the blade to make the cut.
> This is like all things wood working if it doesn't feel right for you don't do it, I could build a jig for this but for me the stop block is my jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please remember also I'm using a very thin blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got 4, 5 hour days figuring out these wheels but they're about done thank you very much..


Oh htl your twisting my arm with these wheels, I can see I am going to have to get on with them!

Producing something like yours first up is all but a dream at the moment, but dreaming about it will not get them done!

I might even drop one in Crowies letter box when I pass !! (thats if I can ever perfect the skill)

They have got to be the best I have seen well done.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Semi Truck 8 Still playing with the wheels*
> 
> Just about got them setup.
> I changed the rims a little bit from the last post.
> I still can't make up my mind if I'm going to ebanize them or not, the black looks good but it tends to hide all the work put into the treads.
> Here's how I cut the treads.
> With the stop block and the blade only raised 3/16" or so it's not a problem to slide the tire up against the fence, then when it hits the stop roll the tire into the blade to make the cut.
> This is like all things wood working if it doesn't feel right for you don't do it, I could build a jig for this but for me the stop block is my jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> Please remember also I'm using a very thin blade.
> 
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> 
> I've got 4, 5 hour days figuring out these wheels but they're about done thank you very much..


Rob it took me 4 years to get to this point and then I see what others do and just go wow!!!


----------



## htl

*Semi Truck Bumper, mud flaps*

With this build I keep making things and then come up with something else so if this keeps up I'll nearly have enough parts for a second truck. LOL
I came up with a different front bumper.

*Was!*










*IS!!!*





































Then on to the mug flaps.



























I'm going to use two of my extra wheels for the front, not as pretty as the maple one's but will match up better.




































That's it for this trip, hope you all liked them, and thanks for checking the truck out.


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Semi Truck Bumper, mud flaps*
> 
> With this build I keep making things and then come up with something else so if this keeps up I'll nearly have enough parts for a second truck. LOL
> I came up with a different front bumper.
> 
> *Was!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> *IS!!!*
> 
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> 
> Then on to the mug flaps.
> 
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> 
> I'm going to use two of my extra wheels for the front, not as pretty as the maple one's but will match up better.
> 
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> 
> That's it for this trip, hope you all liked them, and thanks for checking the truck out.


I still like it. That 44 wheel rig I posted a picture of will use all your extra wheels too.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Semi Truck Bumper, mud flaps*
> 
> With this build I keep making things and then come up with something else so if this keeps up I'll nearly have enough parts for a second truck. LOL
> I came up with a different front bumper.
> 
> *Was!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *IS!!!*
> 
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> 
> Then on to the mug flaps.
> 
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> 
> I'm going to use two of my extra wheels for the front, not as pretty as the maple one's but will match up better.
> 
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> 
> That's it for this trip, hope you all liked them, and thanks for checking the truck out.





> I still like it. That 44 wheel rig I posted a picture of will use all your extra wheels too.
> 
> - ralbuck


*I still like it*, sounds like I'm on the verge of putting the ugly to it at any time. LOL
The funny thing is once I get near the end with all the little hand rails and mirrors and the like I do get paranoid I will put the ugly to it. :-[


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## Northwest29

htl said:


> *Semi Truck Bumper, mud flaps*
> 
> With this build I keep making things and then come up with something else so if this keeps up I'll nearly have enough parts for a second truck. LOL
> I came up with a different front bumper.
> 
> *Was!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *IS!!!*
> 
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> 
> Then on to the mug flaps.
> 
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> 
> I'm going to use two of my extra wheels for the front, not as pretty as the maple one's but will match up better.
> 
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> 
> That's it for this trip, hope you all liked them, and thanks for checking the truck out.


It's looking fabulous! Cool bumper.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Semi Truck Bumper, mud flaps*
> 
> With this build I keep making things and then come up with something else so if this keeps up I'll nearly have enough parts for a second truck. LOL
> I came up with a different front bumper.
> 
> *Was!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *IS!!!*
> 
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> 
> Then on to the mug flaps.
> 
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> 
> I'm going to use two of my extra wheels for the front, not as pretty as the maple one's but will match up better.
> 
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> 
> That's it for this trip, hope you all liked them, and thanks for checking the truck out.


Sure a beautiful mix to timber colour and grain in the build Bruce….


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## htl

*Semi Truck finished up the underneath*























































Here's the finished page.


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## hunter71

htl said:


> *Semi Truck finished up the underneath*
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> Here's the finished page.


Good looking RIG.


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Semi Truck finished up the underneath*
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> Here's the finished page.


Lots of detail


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Semi Truck finished up the underneath*
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> Here's the finished page.


First class projectfrom start to finish Bruce… Thank you for the excellent blog!!


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## Budster

htl said:


> *Semi Truck finished up the underneath*
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> 
> Here's the finished page.


Looking good , real good. Grate workmanship. Like I said before, I want to do work like that when I grow up.lol


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Semi Truck finished up the underneath*
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> Here's the finished page.


Looking great. 
I like making toys too. I get to "test" them that way!


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## htl

*Belly Dump Trailer #2*

Got started yesterday on the Toys and Joys Belly Dump Trailer to go with my just finished semi.

The two main frame members are about the only thing that doesn't have some off the wall angle to it so it's making for an interesting build.










As you can see in the picture I glued up the outside of the frame and then added the bracing as I went.

I clamped the main brace to the table and as I added parts the glue would glue the parts together but also glue them to the copied plans so everything stay put as I built.

I made copy's of the parts with my printer and then cut out a brace held it to the wood and marked it a tad big then cut it out on the band saw, checked out what was needed and hit the disk sander to get the fine tuning.

And as always there's a hundred ways to get this done but this is what worked for me this trip.



































































































It's a long way from perfect but should serve the purpose for which it's intended when done.

If I ever build a bridge for something this frame would work a treat, a pain but a treat. lol


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Belly Dump Trailer #2*
> 
> Got started yesterday on the Toys and Joys Belly Dump Trailer to go with my just finished semi.
> 
> The two main frame members are about the only thing that doesn't have some off the wall angle to it so it's making for an interesting build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see in the picture I glued up the outside of the frame and then added the bracing as I went.
> 
> I clamped the main brace to the table and as I added parts the glue would glue the parts together but also glue them to the copied plans so everything stay put as I built.
> 
> I made copy's of the parts with my printer and then cut out a brace held it to the wood and marked it a tad big then cut it out on the band saw, checked out what was needed and hit the disk sander to get the fine tuning.
> 
> And as always there's a hundred ways to get this done but this is what worked for me this trip.
> 
> 
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> 
> It's a long way from perfect but should serve the purpose for which it's intended when done.
> 
> If I ever build a bridge for something this frame would work a treat, a pain but a treat. lol


Looking good.

Way past both my skills and my patience too.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Belly Dump Trailer #2*
> 
> Got started yesterday on the Toys and Joys Belly Dump Trailer to go with my just finished semi.
> 
> The two main frame members are about the only thing that doesn't have some off the wall angle to it so it's making for an interesting build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see in the picture I glued up the outside of the frame and then added the bracing as I went.
> 
> I clamped the main brace to the table and as I added parts the glue would glue the parts together but also glue them to the copied plans so everything stay put as I built.
> 
> I made copy's of the parts with my printer and then cut out a brace held it to the wood and marked it a tad big then cut it out on the band saw, checked out what was needed and hit the disk sander to get the fine tuning.
> 
> And as always there's a hundred ways to get this done but this is what worked for me this trip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> It's a long way from perfect but should serve the purpose for which it's intended when done.
> 
> If I ever build a bridge for something this frame would work a treat, a pain but a treat. lol


ralbuck when I got near the end of the frame building I was about cross eyed and ready for something different.

Gluing the dump box was quite interesting also, not a square part in the lot.


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## sras

htl said:


> *Belly Dump Trailer #2*
> 
> Got started yesterday on the Toys and Joys Belly Dump Trailer to go with my just finished semi.
> 
> The two main frame members are about the only thing that doesn't have some off the wall angle to it so it's making for an interesting build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see in the picture I glued up the outside of the frame and then added the bracing as I went.
> 
> I clamped the main brace to the table and as I added parts the glue would glue the parts together but also glue them to the copied plans so everything stay put as I built.
> 
> I made copy's of the parts with my printer and then cut out a brace held it to the wood and marked it a tad big then cut it out on the band saw, checked out what was needed and hit the disk sander to get the fine tuning.
> 
> And as always there's a hundred ways to get this done but this is what worked for me this trip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> It's a long way from perfect but should serve the purpose for which it's intended when done.
> 
> If I ever build a bridge for something this frame would work a treat, a pain but a treat. lol


That's going to go perfect with the semi…


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## htl

htl said:


> *Belly Dump Trailer #2*
> 
> Got started yesterday on the Toys and Joys Belly Dump Trailer to go with my just finished semi.
> 
> The two main frame members are about the only thing that doesn't have some off the wall angle to it so it's making for an interesting build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see in the picture I glued up the outside of the frame and then added the bracing as I went.
> 
> I clamped the main brace to the table and as I added parts the glue would glue the parts together but also glue them to the copied plans so everything stay put as I built.
> 
> I made copy's of the parts with my printer and then cut out a brace held it to the wood and marked it a tad big then cut it out on the band saw, checked out what was needed and hit the disk sander to get the fine tuning.
> 
> And as always there's a hundred ways to get this done but this is what worked for me this trip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> It's a long way from perfect but should serve the purpose for which it's intended when done.
> 
> If I ever build a bridge for something this frame would work a treat, a pain but a treat. lol


Thanks Steve.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Belly Dump Trailer #2*
> 
> Got started yesterday on the Toys and Joys Belly Dump Trailer to go with my just finished semi.
> 
> The two main frame members are about the only thing that doesn't have some off the wall angle to it so it's making for an interesting build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see in the picture I glued up the outside of the frame and then added the bracing as I went.
> 
> I clamped the main brace to the table and as I added parts the glue would glue the parts together but also glue them to the copied plans so everything stay put as I built.
> 
> I made copy's of the parts with my printer and then cut out a brace held it to the wood and marked it a tad big then cut it out on the band saw, checked out what was needed and hit the disk sander to get the fine tuning.
> 
> And as always there's a hundred ways to get this done but this is what worked for me this trip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> It's a long way from perfect but should serve the purpose for which it's intended when done.
> 
> If I ever build a bridge for something this frame would work a treat, a pain but a treat. lol


GOT STARTED….
WOW you're half way finished Bruce…
Looks great sir!!


----------



## robscastle

htl said:


> *Belly Dump Trailer #2*
> 
> Got started yesterday on the Toys and Joys Belly Dump Trailer to go with my just finished semi.
> 
> The two main frame members are about the only thing that doesn't have some off the wall angle to it so it's making for an interesting build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see in the picture I glued up the outside of the frame and then added the bracing as I went.
> 
> I clamped the main brace to the table and as I added parts the glue would glue the parts together but also glue them to the copied plans so everything stay put as I built.
> 
> I made copy's of the parts with my printer and then cut out a brace held it to the wood and marked it a tad big then cut it out on the band saw, checked out what was needed and hit the disk sander to get the fine tuning.
> 
> And as always there's a hundred ways to get this done but this is what worked for me this trip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> It's a long way from perfect but should serve the purpose for which it's intended when done.
> 
> If I ever build a bridge for something this frame would work a treat, a pain but a treat. lol


Belly Bump? are you trying to tell us something? tee hee


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Belly Dump Trailer #2*
> 
> Got started yesterday on the Toys and Joys Belly Dump Trailer to go with my just finished semi.
> 
> The two main frame members are about the only thing that doesn't have some off the wall angle to it so it's making for an interesting build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see in the picture I glued up the outside of the frame and then added the bracing as I went.
> 
> I clamped the main brace to the table and as I added parts the glue would glue the parts together but also glue them to the copied plans so everything stay put as I built.
> 
> I made copy's of the parts with my printer and then cut out a brace held it to the wood and marked it a tad big then cut it out on the band saw, checked out what was needed and hit the disk sander to get the fine tuning.
> 
> And as always there's a hundred ways to get this done but this is what worked for me this trip.
> 
> 
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> 
> It's a long way from perfect but should serve the purpose for which it's intended when done.
> 
> If I ever build a bridge for something this frame would work a treat, a pain but a treat. lol


wow what a cool looking trailer also not a very easy build no doubt … love the wood combo should work very well with the truck …. GREAT START :<))


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Belly Dump Trailer #2*
> 
> Got started yesterday on the Toys and Joys Belly Dump Trailer to go with my just finished semi.
> 
> The two main frame members are about the only thing that doesn't have some off the wall angle to it so it's making for an interesting build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see in the picture I glued up the outside of the frame and then added the bracing as I went.
> 
> I clamped the main brace to the table and as I added parts the glue would glue the parts together but also glue them to the copied plans so everything stay put as I built.
> 
> I made copy's of the parts with my printer and then cut out a brace held it to the wood and marked it a tad big then cut it out on the band saw, checked out what was needed and hit the disk sander to get the fine tuning.
> 
> And as always there's a hundred ways to get this done but this is what worked for me this trip.
> 
> 
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> 
> It's a long way from perfect but should serve the purpose for which it's intended when done.
> 
> If I ever build a bridge for something this frame would work a treat, a pain but a treat. lol





> Belly Bump? are you trying to tell us something? tee hee
> 
> - robscastle


Rob I noticed it and thought I had changed it but for some reason it stayed???
Way passed young uns so no problem.


----------



## htl

*Belly Dump Trailer #3.5*

I'm down to fine tuning the look, but hadn't planned on a 12 wheel rear end so will need to make a couple more wheels.
The finish project is here.




























Working on the mud guards-fenders.


----------



## Budster

htl said:


> *Belly Dump Trailer #3.5*
> 
> I'm down to fine tuning the look, but hadn't planned on a 12 wheel rear end so will need to make a couple more wheels.
> The finish project is here.
> 
> 
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> 
> Working on the mud guards-fenders.


Looking grate.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Belly Dump Trailer #3.5*
> 
> I'm down to fine tuning the look, but hadn't planned on a 12 wheel rear end so will need to make a couple more wheels.
> The finish project is here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Working on the mud guards-fenders.


Now that's one good looking rig Bruce….


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## robscastle

htl said:


> *Belly Dump Trailer #3.5*
> 
> I'm down to fine tuning the look, but hadn't planned on a 12 wheel rear end so will need to make a couple more wheels.
> The finish project is here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Working on the mud guards-fenders.


Its htl Mk II back … and the Models looking good.


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Belly Dump Trailer #3.5*
> 
> I'm down to fine tuning the look, but hadn't planned on a 12 wheel rear end so will need to make a couple more wheels.
> The finish project is here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Working on the mud guards-fenders.


Just anther FANTASTIC job from you.


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Belly Dump Trailer #3.5*
> 
> I'm down to fine tuning the look, but hadn't planned on a 12 wheel rear end so will need to make a couple more wheels.
> The finish project is here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Working on the mud guards-fenders.


Super Duper looking GOOD!


----------



## htl

*Toyota 4Runner #1*

I keep telling myself I'm going to back off on the builds and then a project that has been rolling around in my head comes out to play.
I have owned two prerunners, [the non 4wheel drive taller trucks] and love the look, and feel of them.
So this will be a scratch build and hope I can pull it off as there is quite a bit more shape to these modern trucks.
Here's my testing of the waters to see if I'm up to the challenge.









I wanted the ribbed floor in the back of the truck so I guess a ribbed floor inside will work out too.




























I know it doesn't look like much done but you got to start somewhere. lol
Here's what I'm using for my plans, they had to be blown up 200 percent to get a 2 3/4 tire size which tells me everything else is to the scale I want.

*Please note*

*
*I need to go back and say I didn't scale it up by 200 percent, I went into the printers menu and found where you can print a poster of a picture and used the one that needed 9 sheets of paper to get the picture printed and then had to cut and paste to work it out**


----------



## Jason1974

htl said:


> *Toyota 4Runner #1*
> 
> I keep telling myself I'm going to back off on the builds and then a project that has been rolling around in my head comes out to play.
> I have owned two prerunners, [the non 4wheel drive taller trucks] and love the look, and feel of them.
> So this will be a scratch build and hope I can pull it off as there is quite a bit more shape to these modern trucks.
> Here's my testing of the waters to see if I'm up to the challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted the ribbed floor in the back of the truck so I guess a ribbed floor inside will work out too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it doesn't look like much done but you got to start somewhere. lol
> Here's what I'm using for my plans, they had to be blown up 200 percent to get a 2 3/4 tire size which tells me everything else is to the scale I want.
> 
> *Please note*
> 
> *
> *I need to go back and say I didn't scale it up by 200 percent, I went into the printers menu and found where you can print a poster of a picture and used the one that needed 9 sheets of paper to get the picture printed and then had to cut and paste to work it out**


htl, I'm on my 3rd model and I don't think I'm going to be able to stop building models. It's very addictive. Lol

Jason


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Toyota 4Runner #1*
> 
> I keep telling myself I'm going to back off on the builds and then a project that has been rolling around in my head comes out to play.
> I have owned two prerunners, [the non 4wheel drive taller trucks] and love the look, and feel of them.
> So this will be a scratch build and hope I can pull it off as there is quite a bit more shape to these modern trucks.
> Here's my testing of the waters to see if I'm up to the challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted the ribbed floor in the back of the truck so I guess a ribbed floor inside will work out too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it doesn't look like much done but you got to start somewhere. lol
> Here's what I'm using for my plans, they had to be blown up 200 percent to get a 2 3/4 tire size which tells me everything else is to the scale I want.
> 
> *Please note*
> 
> *
> *I need to go back and say I didn't scale it up by 200 percent, I went into the printers menu and found where you can print a poster of a picture and used the one that needed 9 sheets of paper to get the picture printed and then had to cut and paste to work it out**





> htl, I m on my 3rd model and I don t think I m going to be able to stop building models. It s very addictive. Lol
> 
> Jason
> 
> - Jason1974


Jason I have no idea what your talking about as I have only built 46 models in the last 3 1/2 years. LOL
My best advice is to stop now but it is probable already to late from what I see of your work, your really putting yourself into it and it shows!!! ?


----------



## Redoak49

htl said:


> *Toyota 4Runner #1*
> 
> I keep telling myself I'm going to back off on the builds and then a project that has been rolling around in my head comes out to play.
> I have owned two prerunners, [the non 4wheel drive taller trucks] and love the look, and feel of them.
> So this will be a scratch build and hope I can pull it off as there is quite a bit more shape to these modern trucks.
> Here's my testing of the waters to see if I'm up to the challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted the ribbed floor in the back of the truck so I guess a ribbed floor inside will work out too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it doesn't look like much done but you got to start somewhere. lol
> Here's what I'm using for my plans, they had to be blown up 200 percent to get a 2 3/4 tire size which tells me everything else is to the scale I want.
> 
> *Please note*
> 
> *
> *I need to go back and say I didn't scale it up by 200 percent, I went into the printers menu and found where you can print a poster of a picture and used the one that needed 9 sheets of paper to get the picture printed and then had to cut and paste to work it out**


Always great to see how you create the model.


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Toyota 4Runner #1*
> 
> I keep telling myself I'm going to back off on the builds and then a project that has been rolling around in my head comes out to play.
> I have owned two prerunners, [the non 4wheel drive taller trucks] and love the look, and feel of them.
> So this will be a scratch build and hope I can pull it off as there is quite a bit more shape to these modern trucks.
> Here's my testing of the waters to see if I'm up to the challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted the ribbed floor in the back of the truck so I guess a ribbed floor inside will work out too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it doesn't look like much done but you got to start somewhere. lol
> Here's what I'm using for my plans, they had to be blown up 200 percent to get a 2 3/4 tire size which tells me everything else is to the scale I want.
> 
> *Please note*
> 
> *
> *I need to go back and say I didn't scale it up by 200 percent, I went into the printers menu and found where you can print a poster of a picture and used the one that needed 9 sheets of paper to get the picture printed and then had to cut and paste to work it out**


No worries you can pull it off you always do with great style, go for it!


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Toyota 4Runner #1*
> 
> I keep telling myself I'm going to back off on the builds and then a project that has been rolling around in my head comes out to play.
> I have owned two prerunners, [the non 4wheel drive taller trucks] and love the look, and feel of them.
> So this will be a scratch build and hope I can pull it off as there is quite a bit more shape to these modern trucks.
> Here's my testing of the waters to see if I'm up to the challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted the ribbed floor in the back of the truck so I guess a ribbed floor inside will work out too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it doesn't look like much done but you got to start somewhere. lol
> Here's what I'm using for my plans, they had to be blown up 200 percent to get a 2 3/4 tire size which tells me everything else is to the scale I want.
> 
> *Please note*
> 
> *
> *I need to go back and say I didn't scale it up by 200 percent, I went into the printers menu and found where you can print a poster of a picture and used the one that needed 9 sheets of paper to get the picture printed and then had to cut and paste to work it out**





> htl, I m on my 3rd model and I don t think I m going to be able to stop building models. It s very addictive. Lol
> 
> Jason
> 
> - Jason1974
> 
> Jason I have no idea what your talking about as I have only built 46 models in the last 3 1/2 years. LOL
> My best advice is to stop now but it is probable already to late from what I see of your work, your really putting yourself into it and it shows!!! ?
> 
> - htl


oh your hooked Jason LMAO :<)))
I am working on 22 
im gonna really love this 4runner #4 :<)))


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Toyota 4Runner #1*
> 
> I keep telling myself I'm going to back off on the builds and then a project that has been rolling around in my head comes out to play.
> I have owned two prerunners, [the non 4wheel drive taller trucks] and love the look, and feel of them.
> So this will be a scratch build and hope I can pull it off as there is quite a bit more shape to these modern trucks.
> Here's my testing of the waters to see if I'm up to the challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted the ribbed floor in the back of the truck so I guess a ribbed floor inside will work out too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it doesn't look like much done but you got to start somewhere. lol
> Here's what I'm using for my plans, they had to be blown up 200 percent to get a 2 3/4 tire size which tells me everything else is to the scale I want.
> 
> *Please note*
> 
> *
> *I need to go back and say I didn't scale it up by 200 percent, I went into the printers menu and found where you can print a poster of a picture and used the one that needed 9 sheets of paper to get the picture printed and then had to cut and paste to work it out**


Bruce is a model building master class craftsman for sure. 
WOW, a scratch build!!


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Toyota 4Runner #1*
> 
> I keep telling myself I'm going to back off on the builds and then a project that has been rolling around in my head comes out to play.
> I have owned two prerunners, [the non 4wheel drive taller trucks] and love the look, and feel of them.
> So this will be a scratch build and hope I can pull it off as there is quite a bit more shape to these modern trucks.
> Here's my testing of the waters to see if I'm up to the challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted the ribbed floor in the back of the truck so I guess a ribbed floor inside will work out too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it doesn't look like much done but you got to start somewhere. lol
> Here's what I'm using for my plans, they had to be blown up 200 percent to get a 2 3/4 tire size which tells me everything else is to the scale I want.
> 
> *Please note*
> 
> *
> *I need to go back and say I didn't scale it up by 200 percent, I went into the printers menu and found where you can print a poster of a picture and used the one that needed 9 sheets of paper to get the picture printed and then had to cut and paste to work it out**


Are you using Sen wood? It is ultimately a TOYOTA.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Toyota 4Runner #1*
> 
> I keep telling myself I'm going to back off on the builds and then a project that has been rolling around in my head comes out to play.
> I have owned two prerunners, [the non 4wheel drive taller trucks] and love the look, and feel of them.
> So this will be a scratch build and hope I can pull it off as there is quite a bit more shape to these modern trucks.
> Here's my testing of the waters to see if I'm up to the challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted the ribbed floor in the back of the truck so I guess a ribbed floor inside will work out too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it doesn't look like much done but you got to start somewhere. lol
> Here's what I'm using for my plans, they had to be blown up 200 percent to get a 2 3/4 tire size which tells me everything else is to the scale I want.
> 
> *Please note*
> 
> *
> *I need to go back and say I didn't scale it up by 200 percent, I went into the printers menu and found where you can print a poster of a picture and used the one that needed 9 sheets of paper to get the picture printed and then had to cut and paste to work it out**


The truck and trailer ate up my longer wider oak and walnut so back to the ash and poplar.
My cabinet maker friend that gives me his scraps does a lot a painted cabinets so poplar and ash are his go to woods for that.

From your link is sounds like ash is pretty close to Sen.

I don't know why I do this to myself, a plan build is a no brainier and can concentrate on the little add-ons but scratch build helps you go bald. Sad but true.


----------



## htl

*Toyota 4Runner #2*

Been wanting to try this build for a long time but now I'm beginning to question my sanity, I needed an easy build not this thing. LOL























































The top and windows aren't glued in just a look see as my passions was at an end and needed to call it a day.
Going to take some fine adjustment but should work out ok?



















And here's a picture of my truck. LOL


----------



## sras

htl said:


> *Toyota 4Runner #2*
> 
> Been wanting to try this build for a long time but now I'm beginning to question my sanity, I needed an easy build not this thing. LOL
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> The top and windows aren't glued in just a look see as my passions was at an end and needed to call it a day.
> Going to take some fine adjustment but should work out ok?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> And here's a picture of my truck. LOL


No need to question your sanity - it's a bit off 

On the other hand I sure enjoy watching your progress. Looks like you nailed the grain on that hood.


----------



## robscastle

htl said:


> *Toyota 4Runner #2*
> 
> Been wanting to try this build for a long time but now I'm beginning to question my sanity, I needed an easy build not this thing. LOL
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> The top and windows aren't glued in just a look see as my passions was at an end and needed to call it a day.
> Going to take some fine adjustment but should work out ok?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's a picture of my truck. LOL


Sanity? sanity you say? well I still havent finished my 3 spoke motorcycle wheel yet as I am always finding "other" things to distract me.

Like your facinating 4Runner for instance.

A question 
The doors, are you intending to have them open?
If so did you cut them out at a slight angle so they will "wedge" when closed?

I am assuming there are "no plans" and you are using the Full size model and sketchup for reference.

You have certainly made some very good progress.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Toyota 4Runner #2*
> 
> Been wanting to try this build for a long time but now I'm beginning to question my sanity, I needed an easy build not this thing. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> The top and windows aren't glued in just a look see as my passions was at an end and needed to call it a day.
> Going to take some fine adjustment but should work out ok?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's a picture of my truck. LOL


That truck is way too clean for a dirt basher Bruce….

But the model is looking great sir!!


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## htl

htl said:


> *Toyota 4Runner #2*
> 
> Been wanting to try this build for a long time but now I'm beginning to question my sanity, I needed an easy build not this thing. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> The top and windows aren't glued in just a look see as my passions was at an end and needed to call it a day.
> Going to take some fine adjustment but should work out ok?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's a picture of my truck. LOL


Rob no opening doors, I don't have the passions for fiddling with the hinges.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Toyota 4Runner #2*
> 
> Been wanting to try this build for a long time but now I'm beginning to question my sanity, I needed an easy build not this thing. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> The top and windows aren't glued in just a look see as my passions was at an end and needed to call it a day.
> Going to take some fine adjustment but should work out ok?
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> And here's a picture of my truck. LOL


hey #4 ? 4 ya are you going to put a cap on the back …. I hope not LOL :<))


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Toyota 4Runner #2*
> 
> Been wanting to try this build for a long time but now I'm beginning to question my sanity, I needed an easy build not this thing. LOL
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top and windows aren't glued in just a look see as my passions was at an end and needed to call it a day.
> Going to take some fine adjustment but should work out ok?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's a picture of my truck. LOL


NO! NO!! NO!!! NO!!!! NO!!!!! LOL!!!!!!


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## htl

*Toyota 4Runner #3*

Had to get the insides done before I could go any farther with the top.









Had some left over oak and walnut glued up so made the seats out of this odd ball wood.









Between the seat glue ups I worked on the wheel wells.








Then glue up the top and a ton a sanding would be in my future.



















If I was to build another one I would leave more wood above the sides above the doors so the roof and sides would match up better.
With the older trucks and cars this usually isn't a problem because of the square sides but with these more modern builds with angled sides more material needs to be left at the top for shaping.

It's a long way from perfect but for a quicky scratch project not to bad I guess.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Toyota 4Runner #3*
> 
> Had to get the insides done before I could go any farther with the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had some left over oak and walnut glued up so made the seats out of this odd ball wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Between the seat glue ups I worked on the wheel wells.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then glue up the top and a ton a sanding would be in my future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I was to build another one I would leave more wood above the sides above the doors so the roof and sides would match up better.
> With the older trucks and cars this usually isn't a problem because of the square sides but with these more modern builds with angled sides more material needs to be left at the top for shaping.
> 
> It's a long way from perfect but for a quicky scratch project not to bad I guess.


it looks pretty awesome to me I think your being to critical of your own work LOVING IT :<))


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## RPhillips

htl said:


> *Toyota 4Runner #3*
> 
> Had to get the insides done before I could go any farther with the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had some left over oak and walnut glued up so made the seats out of this odd ball wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Between the seat glue ups I worked on the wheel wells.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then glue up the top and a ton a sanding would be in my future.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I was to build another one I would leave more wood above the sides above the doors so the roof and sides would match up better.
> With the older trucks and cars this usually isn't a problem because of the square sides but with these more modern builds with angled sides more material needs to be left at the top for shaping.
> 
> It's a long way from perfect but for a quicky scratch project not to bad I guess.


Wow! Love it! I would love to tackle a project like this in the future. I'll probably make JKU Jeep if I can find some plans for it.


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## Budster

htl said:


> *Toyota 4Runner #3*
> 
> Had to get the insides done before I could go any farther with the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had some left over oak and walnut glued up so made the seats out of this odd ball wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Between the seat glue ups I worked on the wheel wells.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then glue up the top and a ton a sanding would be in my future.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I was to build another one I would leave more wood above the sides above the doors so the roof and sides would match up better.
> With the older trucks and cars this usually isn't a problem because of the square sides but with these more modern builds with angled sides more material needs to be left at the top for shaping.
> 
> It's a long way from perfect but for a quicky scratch project not to bad I guess.


Great , going to be real to of the line.


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Toyota 4Runner #3*
> 
> Had to get the insides done before I could go any farther with the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had some left over oak and walnut glued up so made the seats out of this odd ball wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Between the seat glue ups I worked on the wheel wells.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then glue up the top and a ton a sanding would be in my future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I was to build another one I would leave more wood above the sides above the doors so the roof and sides would match up better.
> With the older trucks and cars this usually isn't a problem because of the square sides but with these more modern builds with angled sides more material needs to be left at the top for shaping.
> 
> It's a long way from perfect but for a quicky scratch project not to bad I guess.


Great detail looking good.


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Toyota 4Runner #3*
> 
> Had to get the insides done before I could go any farther with the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had some left over oak and walnut glued up so made the seats out of this odd ball wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Between the seat glue ups I worked on the wheel wells.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then glue up the top and a ton a sanding would be in my future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I was to build another one I would leave more wood above the sides above the doors so the roof and sides would match up better.
> With the older trucks and cars this usually isn't a problem because of the square sides but with these more modern builds with angled sides more material needs to be left at the top for shaping.
> 
> It's a long way from perfect but for a quicky scratch project not to bad I guess.


That load bottom. Nice


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## htl

*Toyota 4Runner #4 Tail gate and sand sand sand*



















Spent half my time playing with the front end figuring out how I want it.









But at least most of the rest of the truck is under control.



























Just wondering what some wheels would do for it.









I guess after the front end some mud guards are needed.


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Toyota 4Runner #4 Tail gate and sand sand sand*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> Spent half my time playing with the front end figuring out how I want it.
> 
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> 
> But at least most of the rest of the truck is under control.
> 
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> 
> Just wondering what some wheels would do for it.
> 
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> 
> I guess after the front end some mud guards are needed.


Moving right along in High style.


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## Redoak49

htl said:


> *Toyota 4Runner #4 Tail gate and sand sand sand*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> Spent half my time playing with the front end figuring out how I want it.
> 
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> 
> But at least most of the rest of the truck is under control.
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> 
> Just wondering what some wheels would do for it.
> 
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> 
> I guess after the front end some mud guards are needed.


Looking great


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## Budster

htl said:


> *Toyota 4Runner #4 Tail gate and sand sand sand*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Spent half my time playing with the front end figuring out how I want it.
> 
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> 
> But at least most of the rest of the truck is under control.
> 
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> 
> Just wondering what some wheels would do for it.
> 
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> 
> I guess after the front end some mud guards are needed.


wow


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## sras

htl said:


> *Toyota 4Runner #4 Tail gate and sand sand sand*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> Spent half my time playing with the front end figuring out how I want it.
> 
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> 
> But at least most of the rest of the truck is under control.
> 
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> 
> Just wondering what some wheels would do for it.
> 
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> 
> I guess after the front end some mud guards are needed.


Looking good!


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## htl

htl said:


> *Toyota 4Runner #4 Tail gate and sand sand sand*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Spent half my time playing with the front end figuring out how I want it.
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> 
> But at least most of the rest of the truck is under control.
> 
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> 
> Just wondering what some wheels would do for it.
> 
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> 
> I guess after the front end some mud guards are needed.


Thanks guys for checking it out and commenting.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Toyota 4Runner #4 Tail gate and sand sand sand*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Spent half my time playing with the front end figuring out how I want it.
> 
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> 
> But at least most of the rest of the truck is under control.
> 
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> 
> Just wondering what some wheels would do for it.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> I guess after the front end some mud guards are needed.


what no redheart for the taillights LOL looking good :<))


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## htl

htl said:


> *Toyota 4Runner #4 Tail gate and sand sand sand*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Spent half my time playing with the front end figuring out how I want it.
> 
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> 
> But at least most of the rest of the truck is under control.
> 
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> 
> Just wondering what some wheels would do for it.
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> I guess after the front end some mud guards are needed.


Sorry Tony I use what I got.


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## htl

*Toyota 4Runner #5 Just about there*

It's nearly there, I never thought I'd get around to building the truck out in the drive way but it's pretty close with a few custom extras.














































I still need to come up with some wheels and finish sanding.
O! And add some axles. LOL

If any of you were wondering what the numbers in the title are for it's the number of days in the build and I consider 6 hr. as a day.
It will help me years from now to remember what it took to build it.
On some builds I loss count and don't add it.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Toyota 4Runner #5 Just about there*
> 
> It's nearly there, I never thought I'd get around to building the truck out in the drive way but it's pretty close with a few custom extras.
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to come up with some wheels and finish sanding.
> O! And add some axles. LOL
> 
> If any of you were wondering what the numbers in the title are for it's the number of days in the build and I consider 6 hr. as a day.
> It will help me years from now to remember what it took to build it.
> On some builds I loss count and don't add it.


LOOKING AWESOME :<))


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## Budster

htl said:


> *Toyota 4Runner #5 Just about there*
> 
> It's nearly there, I never thought I'd get around to building the truck out in the drive way but it's pretty close with a few custom extras.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to come up with some wheels and finish sanding.
> O! And add some axles. LOL
> 
> If any of you were wondering what the numbers in the title are for it's the number of days in the build and I consider 6 hr. as a day.
> It will help me years from now to remember what it took to build it.
> On some builds I loss count and don't add it.


Wow can't wait to see it done.


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Toyota 4Runner #5 Just about there*
> 
> It's nearly there, I never thought I'd get around to building the truck out in the drive way but it's pretty close with a few custom extras.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to come up with some wheels and finish sanding.
> O! And add some axles. LOL
> 
> If any of you were wondering what the numbers in the title are for it's the number of days in the build and I consider 6 hr. as a day.
> It will help me years from now to remember what it took to build it.
> On some builds I loss count and don't add it.


Mighty Fine looking truck.


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## robscastle

htl said:


> *Toyota 4Runner #5 Just about there*
> 
> It's nearly there, I never thought I'd get around to building the truck out in the drive way but it's pretty close with a few custom extras.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to come up with some wheels and finish sanding.
> O! And add some axles. LOL
> 
> If any of you were wondering what the numbers in the title are for it's the number of days in the build and I consider 6 hr. as a day.
> It will help me years from now to remember what it took to build it.
> On some builds I loss count and don't add it.


Looks like its almost ready to roll some coal ! tee hee


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## htl

htl said:


> *Toyota 4Runner #5 Just about there*
> 
> It's nearly there, I never thought I'd get around to building the truck out in the drive way but it's pretty close with a few custom extras.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to come up with some wheels and finish sanding.
> O! And add some axles. LOL
> 
> If any of you were wondering what the numbers in the title are for it's the number of days in the build and I consider 6 hr. as a day.
> It will help me years from now to remember what it took to build it.
> On some builds I loss count and don't add it.


Yep! if it didn't have 4 flat tires at the moment. ?
But I'm working on them. ?


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Toyota 4Runner #5 Just about there*
> 
> It's nearly there, I never thought I'd get around to building the truck out in the drive way but it's pretty close with a few custom extras.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to come up with some wheels and finish sanding.
> O! And add some axles. LOL
> 
> If any of you were wondering what the numbers in the title are for it's the number of days in the build and I consider 6 hr. as a day.
> It will help me years from now to remember what it took to build it.
> On some builds I loss count and don't add it.


You've done a first class job on the ute Bruce, Toyota would be very proud of it too!!


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## htl

*Toyota 4Runner #7 Wheels*

I've got two, 5 hour days in these wheel.
I was going to make two to match a set I had made earlier but they had 5 spokes per wheel and a 4Runner needs 6 spokes to get it right and it always pays to make an extra in case something goes wrong so I just made a set that will match up.
Plus their a little wider got to love wide tires. LOL













































Now I need to make some axles and all should be about done, or at least as far as I'm going with it.
Check out the finished project here.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Toyota 4Runner #7 Wheels*
> 
> I've got two, 5 hour days in these wheel.
> I was going to make two to match a set I had made earlier but they had 5 spokes per wheel and a 4Runner needs 6 spokes to get it right and it always pays to make an extra in case something goes wrong so I just made a set that will match up.
> Plus their a little wider got to love wide tires. LOL
> 
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> 
> 
> Now I need to make some axles and all should be about done, or at least as far as I'm going with it.
> Check out the finished project here.


LOVE these tires and wheels they fit the pick up very well …. you are the tire and wheel expert …. jig made I assume … GREAT JOB :<))


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Toyota 4Runner #7 Wheels*
> 
> I've got two, 5 hour days in these wheel.
> I was going to make two to match a set I had made earlier but they had 5 spokes per wheel and a 4Runner needs 6 spokes to get it right and it always pays to make an extra in case something goes wrong so I just made a set that will match up.
> Plus their a little wider got to love wide tires. LOL
> 
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> 
> Now I need to make some axles and all should be about done, or at least as far as I'm going with it.
> Check out the finished project here.


You sir are a mastery of wheels Bruce, they always look so good!


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## hookfoot

htl said:


> *Toyota 4Runner #7 Wheels*
> 
> I've got two, 5 hour days in these wheel.
> I was going to make two to match a set I had made earlier but they had 5 spokes per wheel and a 4Runner needs 6 spokes to get it right and it always pays to make an extra in case something goes wrong so I just made a set that will match up.
> Plus their a little wider got to love wide tires. LOL
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Now I need to make some axles and all should be about done, or at least as far as I'm going with it.
> Check out the finished project here.


The details get you everytime. Good work.


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## JulianLech

htl said:


> *Toyota 4Runner #7 Wheels*
> 
> I've got two, 5 hour days in these wheel.
> I was going to make two to match a set I had made earlier but they had 5 spokes per wheel and a 4Runner needs 6 spokes to get it right and it always pays to make an extra in case something goes wrong so I just made a set that will match up.
> Plus their a little wider got to love wide tires. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> Now I need to make some axles and all should be about done, or at least as far as I'm going with it.
> Check out the finished project here.


Super nice job.


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Toyota 4Runner #7 Wheels*
> 
> I've got two, 5 hour days in these wheel.
> I was going to make two to match a set I had made earlier but they had 5 spokes per wheel and a 4Runner needs 6 spokes to get it right and it always pays to make an extra in case something goes wrong so I just made a set that will match up.
> Plus their a little wider got to love wide tires. LOL
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> Now I need to make some axles and all should be about done, or at least as far as I'm going with it.
> Check out the finished project here.


Great looking model.


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## 9x9

htl said:


> *Toyota 4Runner #7 Wheels*
> 
> I've got two, 5 hour days in these wheel.
> I was going to make two to match a set I had made earlier but they had 5 spokes per wheel and a 4Runner needs 6 spokes to get it right and it always pays to make an extra in case something goes wrong so I just made a set that will match up.
> Plus their a little wider got to love wide tires. LOL
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> Now I need to make some axles and all should be about done, or at least as far as I'm going with it.
> Check out the finished project here.


very detailed - - - - great job


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## Budster

htl said:


> *Toyota 4Runner #7 Wheels*
> 
> I've got two, 5 hour days in these wheel.
> I was going to make two to match a set I had made earlier but they had 5 spokes per wheel and a 4Runner needs 6 spokes to get it right and it always pays to make an extra in case something goes wrong so I just made a set that will match up.
> Plus their a little wider got to love wide tires. LOL
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> Now I need to make some axles and all should be about done, or at least as far as I'm going with it.
> Check out the finished project here.


One real nice truck, and once again a great job.


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## htl

*Hot Rod Mustang *

Got started on a Mustang build.
I have seen tons of these cut out all the parts from a chunk a wood and glue it all together project plans but I have never tried to build a model this way so found some free plans and an giving this style of model [toy] building a look see.



















The plans have marks for the axles so I drilled them out and as I put the thing together am using dowels in these holes to line everything up before I started gluing things up.

The plans tell you it's best not to sand the parts up as you go but after you glue it up, 
but I glued up the center parts and then could sand the seats and dash and a light sand of the roof but will save all the out sides for a good shaping when all is glued up.



















One thing I will say, is it takes a large amount of full length lumber to cut it out where I usually can scrap something together out of smaller left over lumber.

It takes a different mind set to build this way but for a toy it would be heavy duty for sure.

Note he also has a lamborghini Miura plan that looks quite interesting, if I hadn't already had my mind and a friend saying something about a mustang, I would have built the Lamborghini instead..


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Hot Rod Mustang *
> 
> Got started on a Mustang build.
> I have seen tons of these cut out all the parts from a chunk a wood and glue it all together project plans but I have never tried to build a model this way so found some free plans and an giving this style of model [toy] building a look see.
> 
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> The plans have marks for the axles so I drilled them out and as I put the thing together am using dowels in these holes to line everything up before I started gluing things up.
> 
> The plans tell you it's best not to sand the parts up as you go but after you glue it up,
> but I glued up the center parts and then could sand the seats and dash and a light sand of the roof but will save all the out sides for a good shaping when all is glued up.
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> One thing I will say, is it takes a large amount of full length lumber to cut it out where I usually can scrap something together out of smaller left over lumber.
> 
> It takes a different mind set to build this way but for a toy it would be heavy duty for sure.
> 
> Note he also has a lamborghini Miura plan that looks quite interesting, if I hadn't already had my mind and a friend saying something about a mustang, I would have built the Lamborghini instead..


Now you're talking Bruce - An iconic Ford Mustang …

PS - Thank you for the link, much appreciated!!


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## htl

*Hot Rod Mustang #2*

Now it's Glue clamp sand some parts.
Then it's Glue clamp sand some parts.
Then it's sand sand sand or if it sounds any better shape shape shape!!!













































I don't feel like I have as much control over the build by doing it this way but it is a first so it may grow on me.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Hot Rod Mustang #2*
> 
> Now it's Glue clamp sand some parts.
> Then it's Glue clamp sand some parts.
> Then it's sand sand sand or if it sounds any better shape shape shape!!!
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> I don't feel like I have as much control over the build by doing it this way but it is a first so it may grow on me.


If you like these plans #4 Lloyds has tons of them

it is looking pretty good at first I was thinking ewww :<((( but now it dont look to bad :<))


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Hot Rod Mustang #2*
> 
> Now it's Glue clamp sand some parts.
> Then it's Glue clamp sand some parts.
> Then it's sand sand sand or if it sounds any better shape shape shape!!!
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> I don't feel like I have as much control over the build by doing it this way but it is a first so it may grow on me.


*Looking good!*


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## EricFai

htl said:


> *Hot Rod Mustang #2*
> 
> Now it's Glue clamp sand some parts.
> Then it's Glue clamp sand some parts.
> Then it's sand sand sand or if it sounds any better shape shape shape!!!
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> I don't feel like I have as much control over the build by doing it this way but it is a first so it may grow on me.


Nice job, looks like it is about 1/8 scale. I like the strip with the wood.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Hot Rod Mustang #2*
> 
> Now it's Glue clamp sand some parts.
> Then it's Glue clamp sand some parts.
> Then it's sand sand sand or if it sounds any better shape shape shape!!!
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> I don't feel like I have as much control over the build by doing it this way but it is a first so it may grow on me.


You've done a first class job on the sanding Bruce…


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## htl

htl said:


> *Hot Rod Mustang #2*
> 
> Now it's Glue clamp sand some parts.
> Then it's Glue clamp sand some parts.
> Then it's sand sand sand or if it sounds any better shape shape shape!!!
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> I don't feel like I have as much control over the build by doing it this way but it is a first so it may grow on me.





> If you like these plans #4 Lloyds has tons of them
> 
> it is looking pretty good at first I was thinking ewww :<((( but now it dont look to bad :<))
> 
> - GR8HUNTER


Tony I was the same when I started it, what have I got myself into but *with a lot a work* it's looking not to bad but really not my style of model building, more fit for toys me thinks.


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## Jason1974

htl said:


> *Hot Rod Mustang #2*
> 
> Now it's Glue clamp sand some parts.
> Then it's Glue clamp sand some parts.
> Then it's sand sand sand or if it sounds any better shape shape shape!!!
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> I don't feel like I have as much control over the build by doing it this way but it is a first so it may grow on me.


I'm curious to see what kind of tires you put on this thing. Cant wait to see the finish. I bet the grain in the wood is really gonna pop.


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## bushmaster

htl said:


> *Hot Rod Mustang #2*
> 
> Now it's Glue clamp sand some parts.
> Then it's Glue clamp sand some parts.
> Then it's sand sand sand or if it sounds any better shape shape shape!!!
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> I don't feel like I have as much control over the build by doing it this way but it is a first so it may grow on me.


I like your construction, similar to the models I have made, center section cutouts and then sides, I used much thinner sides, using the colors of wood, will give and interesting finished project, like a fancy paint job. Well done. Worked well with the bucket seat and con cell.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Hot Rod Mustang #2*
> 
> Now it's Glue clamp sand some parts.
> Then it's Glue clamp sand some parts.
> Then it's sand sand sand or if it sounds any better shape shape shape!!!
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Bushmaster I doubled the plan size to use 3/4 lumber and yes I guess I should have thinned the outsides but went by the plans. [That's a first for me isn't it? LOL]
I guess I could take it to the table saw and thin the sides but would mess up the head lights but we'll have to put the thinking cap on for this, and as I've said before not my usual build style.
One of those if you don't try out different ways of doing things you won't learn anything new.

Jason the wheels for this will be quite small so not able to add much detail to them, and already have my mind on something else so???


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## hookfoot

htl said:


> *Hot Rod Mustang #2*
> 
> Now it's Glue clamp sand some parts.
> Then it's Glue clamp sand some parts.
> Then it's sand sand sand or if it sounds any better shape shape shape!!!
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I will be following this build. I had a 1965 289 hi performance fast back and a 1967 fastback in my younger days. Wish I still had them. The 1965 was Vintage Burgundy and the 67 was Midnight Blue. I am sure this will be a super build like all of the rest. Have fun.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Hot Rod Mustang #2*
> 
> Now it's Glue clamp sand some parts.
> Then it's Glue clamp sand some parts.
> Then it's sand sand sand or if it sounds any better shape shape shape!!!
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> I don't feel like I have as much control over the build by doing it this way but it is a first so it may grow on me.


I added some lights and wheels and that's as far as I needed to take this toy project, just not into this way of building models. Sorry
My wheel making jig wouldn't let me use a 7 1/4 blade to cut the treads so had to use a 10" blade which is way wider than I like for this small a wheel, so have been making a jig that will have height adjustment for all wheels up to 4 3/4".


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## htl

*Caboose using Gatto plans #2*

Got it in my head the the Reading train needs some cars so ordered the Gatto plans that match up with the train.
This will be my third caboose but all are completely different.
It also come with a Hopper car which will be a new type car for me, it also comes with a passenger car but it's I can't remember but it's way long so may build a cattle car instead down the road.

{I love to build cattle cars. LOL}
The project page for the Caboose is here.

I forgot to bring the camera with me the first day but you get the idea.






















































These windows take way to much time for my feeble nerves. LOL










I should point out that this caboose is quite a bit smaller than the Toys and Joys caboose so, the only real difference other than that is the Gatto gives details for the inside where the T&j doesn't but if you check out my blog on that model there's some ideas to fix that.


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Caboose using Gatto plans #2*
> 
> Got it in my head the the Reading train needs some cars so ordered the Gatto plans that match up with the train.
> This will be my third caboose but all are completely different.
> It also come with a Hopper car which will be a new type car for me, it also comes with a passenger car but it's I can't remember but it's way long so may build a cattle car instead down the road.
> 
> {I love to build cattle cars. LOL}
> The project page for the Caboose is here.
> 
> I forgot to bring the camera with me the first day but you get the idea.
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> I should point out that this caboose is quite a bit smaller than the Toys and Joys caboose so, the only real difference other than that is the Gatto gives details for the inside where the T&j doesn't but if you check out my blog on that model there's some ideas to fix that.


That is going to be fabulous when finished.


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Caboose using Gatto plans #2*
> 
> Got it in my head the the Reading train needs some cars so ordered the Gatto plans that match up with the train.
> This will be my third caboose but all are completely different.
> It also come with a Hopper car which will be a new type car for me, it also comes with a passenger car but it's I can't remember but it's way long so may build a cattle car instead down the road.
> 
> {I love to build cattle cars. LOL}
> The project page for the Caboose is here.
> 
> I forgot to bring the camera with me the first day but you get the idea.
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> I should point out that this caboose is quite a bit smaller than the Toys and Joys caboose so, the only real difference other than that is the Gatto gives details for the inside where the T&j doesn't but if you check out my blog on that model there's some ideas to fix that.


Looks good to me go for it.


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## hookfoot

htl said:


> *Caboose using Gatto plans #2*
> 
> Got it in my head the the Reading train needs some cars so ordered the Gatto plans that match up with the train.
> This will be my third caboose but all are completely different.
> It also come with a Hopper car which will be a new type car for me, it also comes with a passenger car but it's I can't remember but it's way long so may build a cattle car instead down the road.
> 
> {I love to build cattle cars. LOL}
> The project page for the Caboose is here.
> 
> I forgot to bring the camera with me the first day but you get the idea.
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> I should point out that this caboose is quite a bit smaller than the Toys and Joys caboose so, the only real difference other than that is the Gatto gives details for the inside where the T&j doesn't but if you check out my blog on that model there's some ideas to fix that.


Good start.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Caboose using Gatto plans #2*
> 
> Got it in my head the the Reading train needs some cars so ordered the Gatto plans that match up with the train.
> This will be my third caboose but all are completely different.
> It also come with a Hopper car which will be a new type car for me, it also comes with a passenger car but it's I can't remember but it's way long so may build a cattle car instead down the road.
> 
> {I love to build cattle cars. LOL}
> The project page for the Caboose is here.
> 
> I forgot to bring the camera with me the first day but you get the idea.
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> I should point out that this caboose is quite a bit smaller than the Toys and Joys caboose so, the only real difference other than that is the Gatto gives details for the inside where the T&j doesn't but if you check out my blog on that model there's some ideas to fix that.


damn son your half way done already LOL :<))


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## htl

htl said:


> *Caboose using Gatto plans #2*
> 
> Got it in my head the the Reading train needs some cars so ordered the Gatto plans that match up with the train.
> This will be my third caboose but all are completely different.
> It also come with a Hopper car which will be a new type car for me, it also comes with a passenger car but it's I can't remember but it's way long so may build a cattle car instead down the road.
> 
> {I love to build cattle cars. LOL}
> The project page for the Caboose is here.
> 
> I forgot to bring the camera with me the first day but you get the idea.
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> 
> I should point out that this caboose is quite a bit smaller than the Toys and Joys caboose so, the only real difference other than that is the Gatto gives details for the inside where the T&j doesn't but if you check out my blog on that model there's some ideas to fix that.


Son! Son I'm an old man. LOL


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Caboose using Gatto plans #2*
> 
> Got it in my head the the Reading train needs some cars so ordered the Gatto plans that match up with the train.
> This will be my third caboose but all are completely different.
> It also come with a Hopper car which will be a new type car for me, it also comes with a passenger car but it's I can't remember but it's way long so may build a cattle car instead down the road.
> 
> {I love to build cattle cars. LOL}
> The project page for the Caboose is here.
> 
> I forgot to bring the camera with me the first day but you get the idea.
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> These windows take way to much time for my feeble nerves. LOL
> 
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> 
> I should point out that this caboose is quite a bit smaller than the Toys and Joys caboose so, the only real difference other than that is the Gatto gives details for the inside where the T&j doesn't but if you check out my blog on that model there's some ideas to fix that.


I didnt want to say damn old man LOL
how bout damn #4 *LMAO :<))*


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## htl

htl said:


> *Caboose using Gatto plans #2*
> 
> Got it in my head the the Reading train needs some cars so ordered the Gatto plans that match up with the train.
> This will be my third caboose but all are completely different.
> It also come with a Hopper car which will be a new type car for me, it also comes with a passenger car but it's I can't remember but it's way long so may build a cattle car instead down the road.
> 
> {I love to build cattle cars. LOL}
> The project page for the Caboose is here.
> 
> I forgot to bring the camera with me the first day but you get the idea.
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> I should point out that this caboose is quite a bit smaller than the Toys and Joys caboose so, the only real difference other than that is the Gatto gives details for the inside where the T&j doesn't but if you check out my blog on that model there's some ideas to fix that.


Leave the d word out of it and all is well.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Caboose using Gatto plans #2*
> 
> Got it in my head the the Reading train needs some cars so ordered the Gatto plans that match up with the train.
> This will be my third caboose but all are completely different.
> It also come with a Hopper car which will be a new type car for me, it also comes with a passenger car but it's I can't remember but it's way long so may build a cattle car instead down the road.
> 
> {I love to build cattle cars. LOL}
> The project page for the Caboose is here.
> 
> I forgot to bring the camera with me the first day but you get the idea.
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> I should point out that this caboose is quite a bit smaller than the Toys and Joys caboose so, the only real difference other than that is the Gatto gives details for the inside where the T&j doesn't but if you check out my blog on that model there's some ideas to fix that.


Only a boggy and this caboose will be rolling down the track


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## bushmaster

htl said:


> *Caboose using Gatto plans #2*
> 
> Got it in my head the the Reading train needs some cars so ordered the Gatto plans that match up with the train.
> This will be my third caboose but all are completely different.
> It also come with a Hopper car which will be a new type car for me, it also comes with a passenger car but it's I can't remember but it's way long so may build a cattle car instead down the road.
> 
> {I love to build cattle cars. LOL}
> The project page for the Caboose is here.
> 
> I forgot to bring the camera with me the first day but you get the idea.
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> These windows take way to much time for my feeble nerves. LOL
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> 
> I should point out that this caboose is quite a bit smaller than the Toys and Joys caboose so, the only real difference other than that is the Gatto gives details for the inside where the T&j doesn't but if you check out my blog on that model there's some ideas to fix that.


I love trains, your blogs are inspiring.


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## htl

*Hopper Car For Reading Train*

Got started on the Gatto Hopper car yesterday.








































































Finish project here.


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Hopper Car For Reading Train*
> 
> Got started on the Gatto Hopper car yesterday.
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> Finish project here.


That is going to be a very nice unit!


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Hopper Car For Reading Train*
> 
> Got started on the Gatto Hopper car yesterday.
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> Finish project here.


it would take me a day just to make the wheels and NO MORE of these plans from llyods cant wait till Thursday when its complete LOL:<))


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## htl

htl said:


> *Hopper Car For Reading Train*
> 
> Got started on the Gatto Hopper car yesterday.
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> Finish project here.


Tony it's funny but I'm my own worst enemy while building these last two projects and others truth be told.
The Gatto plans are very wordy, half the page is pictures and the other half instruction but I can't seem to go by the plans [read] and end up making trouble for myself by jumping ahead and build out of sink to the plans and down the road something don't work and I have to plan around my miss steps but all is well and it all comes out in the end.


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Hopper Car For Reading Train*
> 
> Got started on the Gatto Hopper car yesterday.
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> Finish project here.


Off to a good start on a fine project.


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## Budster

htl said:


> *Hopper Car For Reading Train*
> 
> Got started on the Gatto Hopper car yesterday.
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> Finish project here.


Looooooooking gooooooooooood


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Hopper Car For Reading Train*
> 
> Got started on the Gatto Hopper car yesterday.
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> Finish project here.


Man am I slow, missed this yesterday and today it's finished. 
Now that's a high speed train. 
Nicely done Bruce.


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## htl

*Working on a Bob Cat Model*

Started on the Toys & Joys Bob Cat model and wonders of wonders I brought the camera with me today.
This is another very simple but way fun model to build.

*5 hours work in 12 seconds.*


































































Tried something a little different for the roof.


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Working on a Bob Cat Model*
> 
> Started on the Toys & Joys Bob Cat model and wonders of wonders I brought the camera with me today.
> This is another very simple but way fun model to build.
> 
> *5 hours work in 12 seconds.*
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> Tried something a little different for the roof.


I have been through the factory, ran a few different ones, and even knew one of the original designers(BUILDERS).

You are doing a marvelous job. On a fantastic machine.

The very first ones were 3 wheels; but less than 1/2 dozen were ever made like that. The Kellers still own 2 of the originals.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Working on a Bob Cat Model*
> 
> Started on the Toys & Joys Bob Cat model and wonders of wonders I brought the camera with me today.
> This is another very simple but way fun model to build.
> 
> *5 hours work in 12 seconds.*
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> Tried something a little different for the roof.


I just love this project and have built another one a while back but wanted to build it to the plans this time.
Always love to hear about the history of these projects and how they have affected our lives in the real world [work or play].


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## Jason1974

htl said:


> *Working on a Bob Cat Model*
> 
> Started on the Toys & Joys Bob Cat model and wonders of wonders I brought the camera with me today.
> This is another very simple but way fun model to build.
> 
> *5 hours work in 12 seconds.*
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> Tried something a little different for the roof.


Bruce, where did you say you got the plans from?


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## htl

htl said:


> *Working on a Bob Cat Model*
> 
> Started on the Toys & Joys Bob Cat model and wonders of wonders I brought the camera with me today.
> This is another very simple but way fun model to build.
> 
> *5 hours work in 12 seconds.*
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This is a Toys & Joys plan.
We always had a Bob Cat but they call it a Skid Steer Loader at T&Y ???
Would be thrilled to see your take on it.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Working on a Bob Cat Model*
> 
> Started on the Toys & Joys Bob Cat model and wonders of wonders I brought the camera with me today.
> This is another very simple but way fun model to build.
> 
> *5 hours work in 12 seconds.*
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> Tried something a little different for the roof.


roof looks very interesting :<)))


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Working on a Bob Cat Model*
> 
> Started on the Toys & Joys Bob Cat model and wonders of wonders I brought the camera with me today.
> This is another very simple but way fun model to build.
> 
> *5 hours work in 12 seconds.*
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> roof looks very interesting :<)))
> 
> - GR8HUNTER


That roof looks amazing Bruce…


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## htl

htl said:


> *Working on a Bob Cat Model*
> 
> Started on the Toys & Joys Bob Cat model and wonders of wonders I brought the camera with me today.
> This is another very simple but way fun model to build.
> 
> *5 hours work in 12 seconds.*
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> Tried something a little different for the roof.


Here's an up date.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Working on a Bob Cat Model*
> 
> Started on the Toys & Joys Bob Cat model and wonders of wonders I brought the camera with me today.
> This is another very simple but way fun model to build.
> 
> *5 hours work in 12 seconds.*
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> Tried something a little different for the roof.


the square pattern is pretty damn clever work…well done Bruce.


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## BruceBarber

htl said:


> *Working on a Bob Cat Model*
> 
> Started on the Toys & Joys Bob Cat model and wonders of wonders I brought the camera with me today.
> This is another very simple but way fun model to build.
> 
> *5 hours work in 12 seconds.*
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> Tried something a little different for the roof.


how did you do the roof , with squares holes,, PLUS how did you do the tires


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## htl

*Working on a Bob Cat Model More done*

Got some more done.
I love building these little construction tools.


























































































It's just about time to figure out some wheels?


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Working on a Bob Cat Model More done*
> 
> Got some more done.
> I love building these little construction tools.
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> It's just about time to figure out some wheels?


That Bobcat is looking real good Bruce!!


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## Jason1974

htl said:


> *Working on a Bob Cat Model More done*
> 
> Got some more done.
> I love building these little construction tools.
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> It's just about time to figure out some wheels?


Bruce, that is coming along great. Tracks or wheel, can't wait to see what you do.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Working on a Bob Cat Model More done*
> 
> Got some more done.
> I love building these little construction tools.
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> It's just about time to figure out some wheels?


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## chrisstef

htl said:


> *Working on a Bob Cat Model More done*
> 
> Got some more done.
> I love building these little construction tools.
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> It's just about time to figure out some wheels?


Foam fill those wheels for us demo guys please. Super cool project. Id love one on my desk.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Working on a Bob Cat Model More done*
> 
> Got some more done.
> I love building these little construction tools.
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> It's just about time to figure out some wheels?


hey #4 now you know you cannot show tires / wheels like that with *NO* Explanations LMAO Come on brother let us in on your secret LOL *LOVING THESE TIRES :<))))))*


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## htl

htl said:


> *Working on a Bob Cat Model More done*
> 
> Got some more done.
> I love building these little construction tools.
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> It's just about time to figure out some wheels?


Tony their just a tractor tire built on a smaller scale, using 2, 1 1/2" store bought tires for the main rubber.
Tires grooved and sanded then glued together.


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## Jason1974

htl said:


> *Working on a Bob Cat Model More done*
> 
> Got some more done.
> I love building these little construction tools.
> 
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> It's just about time to figure out some wheels?


Bruce, That's pretty slick. thinking outside the box. NICE!!!


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## Budster

htl said:


> *Working on a Bob Cat Model More done*
> 
> Got some more done.
> I love building these little construction tools.
> 
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> It's just about time to figure out some wheels?


Top of the line as always.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Working on a Bob Cat Model More done*
> 
> Got some more done.
> I love building these little construction tools.
> 
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> It's just about time to figure out some wheels?





> Tony their just a tractor tire built on a smaller scale, using 2, 1 1/2" store bought tires for the main rubber.
> Tires grooved and sanded then glued together.
> 
> - htl


*A GREAT IDEA #4 *


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## htl

htl said:


> *Working on a Bob Cat Model More done*
> 
> Got some more done.
> I love building these little construction tools.
> 
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> It's just about time to figure out some wheels?

































































Here's the project page.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Working on a Bob Cat Model More done*
> 
> Got some more done.
> I love building these little construction tools.
> 
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> It's just about time to figure out some wheels?


Bruce, The finish certainly makes the timber grain pop…. First class job sir!!


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## htl

*Chevy Corvette 1962*

I know what your thinking, he's building another one but winter is just around the corner so won't be bothering you all much longer with my dribble.

Next is why the Chevy Corvette 1962, well I like the sting ray back end but wanted the open head lights, so the best of both worlds if your into the older Vets me thinks.
My first car was a 62 Chevy Impala, almost built that but the Vet first.

Here's the plans.
As usual this is made out of scraps. [poplar for this build] Only wide enough lumber I have at the time.



























I had a small problem when I got to this point the stinken car wouldn't fit under my band saw to cut the front and back into shape.
I had to cut out as much as I could using the table saw at 45 degrees then just do a bunch a extra sanding on the 12" disk sander to get it done.























































By the time I get done it may not look or be a Corvette but it is a head scratchier for sure.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Chevy Corvette 1962*
> 
> I know what your thinking, he's building another one but winter is just around the corner so won't be bothering you all much longer with my dribble.
> 
> Next is why the Chevy Corvette 1962, well I like the sting ray back end but wanted the open head lights, so the best of both worlds if your into the older Vets me thinks.
> My first car was a 62 Chevy Impala, almost built that but the Vet first.
> 
> Here's the plans.
> As usual this is made out of scraps. [poplar for this build] Only wide enough lumber I have at the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> I had a small problem when I got to this point the stinken car wouldn't fit under my band saw to cut the front and back into shape.
> I had to cut out as much as I could using the table saw at 45 degrees then just do a bunch a extra sanding on the 12" disk sander to get it done.
> 
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> By the time I get done it may not look or be a Corvette but it is a head scratchier for sure.


Beautiful figure in the timber and fitting for such a nice car…
Great job Bruce!!


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## Budster

htl said:


> *Chevy Corvette 1962*
> 
> I know what your thinking, he's building another one but winter is just around the corner so won't be bothering you all much longer with my dribble.
> 
> Next is why the Chevy Corvette 1962, well I like the sting ray back end but wanted the open head lights, so the best of both worlds if your into the older Vets me thinks.
> My first car was a 62 Chevy Impala, almost built that but the Vet first.
> 
> Here's the plans.
> As usual this is made out of scraps. [poplar for this build] Only wide enough lumber I have at the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a small problem when I got to this point the stinken car wouldn't fit under my band saw to cut the front and back into shape.
> I had to cut out as much as I could using the table saw at 45 degrees then just do a bunch a extra sanding on the 12" disk sander to get it done.
> 
> 
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> By the time I get done it may not look or be a Corvette but it is a head scratchier for sure.


WoW ! looks damn good so far.


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Chevy Corvette 1962*
> 
> I know what your thinking, he's building another one but winter is just around the corner so won't be bothering you all much longer with my dribble.
> 
> Next is why the Chevy Corvette 1962, well I like the sting ray back end but wanted the open head lights, so the best of both worlds if your into the older Vets me thinks.
> My first car was a 62 Chevy Impala, almost built that but the Vet first.
> 
> Here's the plans.
> As usual this is made out of scraps. [poplar for this build] Only wide enough lumber I have at the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a small problem when I got to this point the stinken car wouldn't fit under my band saw to cut the front and back into shape.
> I had to cut out as much as I could using the table saw at 45 degrees then just do a bunch a extra sanding on the 12" disk sander to get it done.
> 
> 
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> By the time I get done it may not look or be a Corvette but it is a head scratchier for sure.


Great choice those were beautiful cars, and this one is starting off in grand way.


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## Jason1974

htl said:


> *Chevy Corvette 1962*
> 
> I know what your thinking, he's building another one but winter is just around the corner so won't be bothering you all much longer with my dribble.
> 
> Next is why the Chevy Corvette 1962, well I like the sting ray back end but wanted the open head lights, so the best of both worlds if your into the older Vets me thinks.
> My first car was a 62 Chevy Impala, almost built that but the Vet first.
> 
> Here's the plans.
> As usual this is made out of scraps. [poplar for this build] Only wide enough lumber I have at the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> I had a small problem when I got to this point the stinken car wouldn't fit under my band saw to cut the front and back into shape.
> I had to cut out as much as I could using the table saw at 45 degrees then just do a bunch a extra sanding on the 12" disk sander to get it done.
> 
> 
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> By the time I get done it may not look or be a Corvette but it is a head scratchier for sure.


Looking really good so far. Gotta love them vets.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Chevy Corvette 1962*
> 
> I know what your thinking, he's building another one but winter is just around the corner so won't be bothering you all much longer with my dribble.
> 
> Next is why the Chevy Corvette 1962, well I like the sting ray back end but wanted the open head lights, so the best of both worlds if your into the older Vets me thinks.
> My first car was a 62 Chevy Impala, almost built that but the Vet first.
> 
> Here's the plans.
> As usual this is made out of scraps. [poplar for this build] Only wide enough lumber I have at the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a small problem when I got to this point the stinken car wouldn't fit under my band saw to cut the front and back into shape.
> I had to cut out as much as I could using the table saw at 45 degrees then just do a bunch a extra sanding on the 12" disk sander to get it done.
> 
> 
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> By the time I get done it may not look or be a Corvette but it is a head scratchier for sure.


if you have to build a vet at least you picked the coolest year one :<))

i hate these llodys plans yukky :<(((((((((((((((


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## htl

htl said:


> *Chevy Corvette 1962*
> 
> I know what your thinking, he's building another one but winter is just around the corner so won't be bothering you all much longer with my dribble.
> 
> Next is why the Chevy Corvette 1962, well I like the sting ray back end but wanted the open head lights, so the best of both worlds if your into the older Vets me thinks.
> My first car was a 62 Chevy Impala, almost built that but the Vet first.
> 
> Here's the plans.
> As usual this is made out of scraps. [poplar for this build] Only wide enough lumber I have at the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a small problem when I got to this point the stinken car wouldn't fit under my band saw to cut the front and back into shape.
> I had to cut out as much as I could using the table saw at 45 degrees then just do a bunch a extra sanding on the 12" disk sander to get it done.
> 
> 
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> By the time I get done it may not look or be a Corvette but it is a head scratchier for sure.


Ya! Tony just had to try something else and see if I could build a shapely car. lol


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Chevy Corvette 1962*
> 
> I know what your thinking, he's building another one but winter is just around the corner so won't be bothering you all much longer with my dribble.
> 
> Next is why the Chevy Corvette 1962, well I like the sting ray back end but wanted the open head lights, so the best of both worlds if your into the older Vets me thinks.
> My first car was a 62 Chevy Impala, almost built that but the Vet first.
> 
> Here's the plans.
> As usual this is made out of scraps. [poplar for this build] Only wide enough lumber I have at the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a small problem when I got to this point the stinken car wouldn't fit under my band saw to cut the front and back into shape.
> I had to cut out as much as I could using the table saw at 45 degrees then just do a bunch a extra sanding on the 12" disk sander to get it done.
> 
> 
> 
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> By the time I get done it may not look or be a Corvette but it is a head scratchier for sure.


it is harder then you think … when I built my 65 mustang not sure I like it LOL :<))


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## htl

*Chevy Corvette 1962 plunge routing*

Needed to get a hole in the nose so the radiator would be able to do it's job.
Haven't really done much plunge routing so had to put on the thinking cap for this simple job.













































Then shaped the edges and you guessed it sand sand sand.

Now I'm able to glue up the sides,and hope I haven't got ahead of myself doing it.




























no


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Chevy Corvette 1962 plunge routing*
> 
> Needed to get a hole in the nose so the radiator would be able to do it's job.
> Haven't really done much plunge routing so had to put on the thinking cap for this simple job.
> 
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> 
> Then shaped the edges and you guessed it sand sand sand.
> 
> Now I'm able to glue up the sides,and hope I haven't got ahead of myself doing it.
> 
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> no


Mooi 4


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Chevy Corvette 1962 plunge routing*
> 
> Needed to get a hole in the nose so the radiator would be able to do it's job.
> Haven't really done much plunge routing so had to put on the thinking cap for this simple job.
> 
> 
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> 
> Then shaped the edges and you guessed it sand sand sand.
> 
> Now I'm able to glue up the sides,and hope I haven't got ahead of myself doing it.
> 
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> no


Just keep going-it will be FINE!


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Chevy Corvette 1962 plunge routing*
> 
> Needed to get a hole in the nose so the radiator would be able to do it's job.
> Haven't really done much plunge routing so had to put on the thinking cap for this simple job.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Then shaped the edges and you guessed it sand sand sand.
> 
> Now I'm able to glue up the sides,and hope I haven't got ahead of myself doing it.
> 
> 
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> no


Innovation plus…. very well done Bruce!!


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## hunter71

htl said:


> *Chevy Corvette 1962 plunge routing*
> 
> Needed to get a hole in the nose so the radiator would be able to do it's job.
> Haven't really done much plunge routing so had to put on the thinking cap for this simple job.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Then shaped the edges and you guessed it sand sand sand.
> 
> Now I'm able to glue up the sides,and hope I haven't got ahead of myself doing it.
> 
> 
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> 
> no


I had a 62 Corvette, one of my favorites. Maybe my favorite was my 66 big block coupe.


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## BruceBarber

htl said:


> *Chevy Corvette 1962 plunge routing*
> 
> Needed to get a hole in the nose so the radiator would be able to do it's job.
> Haven't really done much plunge routing so had to put on the thinking cap for this simple job.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Then shaped the edges and you guessed it sand sand sand.
> 
> Now I'm able to glue up the sides,and hope I haven't got ahead of myself doing it.
> 
> 
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> no


love your work ,, keep it up


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## htl

htl said:


> *Chevy Corvette 1962 plunge routing*
> 
> Needed to get a hole in the nose so the radiator would be able to do it's job.
> Haven't really done much plunge routing so had to put on the thinking cap for this simple job.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then shaped the edges and you guessed it sand sand sand.
> 
> Now I'm able to glue up the sides,and hope I haven't got ahead of myself doing it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> no


Thanks Ralbucks I was getting worried.


----------



## hookfoot

htl said:


> *Chevy Corvette 1962 plunge routing*
> 
> Needed to get a hole in the nose so the radiator would be able to do it's job.
> Haven't really done much plunge routing so had to put on the thinking cap for this simple job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then shaped the edges and you guessed it sand sand sand.
> 
> Now I'm able to glue up the sides,and hope I haven't got ahead of myself doing it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> no


Looks good.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Chevy Corvette 1962 plunge routing*
> 
> Needed to get a hole in the nose so the radiator would be able to do it's job.
> Haven't really done much plunge routing so had to put on the thinking cap for this simple job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then shaped the edges and you guessed it sand sand sand.
> 
> Now I'm able to glue up the sides,and hope I haven't got ahead of myself doing it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> no


This is more and more looking like a 1953 Corvette, some times you just go where the wood takes you.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Chevy Corvette 1962 plunge routing*
> 
> Needed to get a hole in the nose so the radiator would be able to do it's job.
> Haven't really done much plunge routing so had to put on the thinking cap for this simple job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then shaped the edges and you guessed it sand sand sand.
> 
> Now I'm able to glue up the sides,and hope I haven't got ahead of myself doing it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> no





> This is more and more looking like a 1953 Corvette, some times you just go where the wood takes you.
> 
> - htl


for sure #4 the wood talks to me also HOPE WE NOT CRAZY LOL :<))


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Chevy Corvette 1962 plunge routing*
> 
> Needed to get a hole in the nose so the radiator would be able to do it's job.
> Haven't really done much plunge routing so had to put on the thinking cap for this simple job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then shaped the edges and you guessed it sand sand sand.
> 
> Now I'm able to glue up the sides,and hope I haven't got ahead of myself doing it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> no


I know I am Tony, but my block a wood therapist tells me it's ok just sniff a little more Super Glue and all will be right!


----------



## htl

*Chevy Corvette 1953 Chevy Corvette*

My 1962 Corvette is looking more and more like a 1953 Vette, the first one.
It has a single head light per side and rounded fenders.
This has caused me a few problems which I hope I can work my way around.



























Everything is looking ok at this point till I started to make the seats and there's way to much space for your feet.
Using the 1962 pictures for the out side and kind a guessing on the inside I made the inside way to large.
I got back on the web and with some deep digging found some 1953 picture looking down on the inside so I can get the spacing right.
So I had to take out half my work today and start over but all should work out in the end.
The trunk and folding roof take up a lot more room than you would think.
I had the space between the wind shield and back of the roof right but needed to make more room for the folding roof.

So here's my ouch pictures, after I got everything back under control I HOPE!!!


















Now to make a cover to hide the bugger,the cover is needed so not really a problem in the long run.


----------



## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Chevy Corvette 1953 Chevy Corvette*
> 
> My 1962 Corvette is looking more and more like a 1953 Vette, the first one.
> It has a single head light per side and rounded fenders.
> This has caused me a few problems which I hope I can work my way around.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything is looking ok at this point till I started to make the seats and there's way to much space for your feet.
> Using the 1962 pictures for the out side and kind a guessing on the inside I made the inside way to large.
> I got back on the web and with some deep digging found some 1953 picture looking down on the inside so I can get the spacing right.
> So I had to take out half my work today and start over but all should work out in the end.
> The trunk and folding roof take up a lot more room than you would think.
> I had the space between the wind shield and back of the roof right but needed to make more room for the folding roof.
> 
> So here's my ouch pictures, after I got everything back under control I HOPE!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to make a cover to hide the bugger,the cover is needed so not really a problem in the long run.


It is looking very fine.


----------



## JulianLech

htl said:


> *Chevy Corvette 1953 Chevy Corvette*
> 
> My 1962 Corvette is looking more and more like a 1953 Vette, the first one.
> It has a single head light per side and rounded fenders.
> This has caused me a few problems which I hope I can work my way around.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything is looking ok at this point till I started to make the seats and there's way to much space for your feet.
> Using the 1962 pictures for the out side and kind a guessing on the inside I made the inside way to large.
> I got back on the web and with some deep digging found some 1953 picture looking down on the inside so I can get the spacing right.
> So I had to take out half my work today and start over but all should work out in the end.
> The trunk and folding roof take up a lot more room than you would think.
> I had the space between the wind shield and back of the roof right but needed to make more room for the folding roof.
> 
> So here's my ouch pictures, after I got everything back under control I HOPE!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to make a cover to hide the bugger,the cover is needed so not really a problem in the long run.


Nice graceful curves. This will be a fine looking model.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Chevy Corvette 1953 Chevy Corvette*
> 
> My 1962 Corvette is looking more and more like a 1953 Vette, the first one.
> It has a single head light per side and rounded fenders.
> This has caused me a few problems which I hope I can work my way around.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything is looking ok at this point till I started to make the seats and there's way to much space for your feet.
> Using the 1962 pictures for the out side and kind a guessing on the inside I made the inside way to large.
> I got back on the web and with some deep digging found some 1953 picture looking down on the inside so I can get the spacing right.
> So I had to take out half my work today and start over but all should work out in the end.
> The trunk and folding roof take up a lot more room than you would think.
> I had the space between the wind shield and back of the roof right but needed to make more room for the folding roof.
> 
> So here's my ouch pictures, after I got everything back under control I HOPE!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to make a cover to hide the bugger,the cover is needed so not really a problem in the long run.


it takes a master to fix his mistakes as if they never did happen this is how you know your good #4 looks great to me *FOR A VET :<)))*


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Chevy Corvette 1953 Chevy Corvette*
> 
> My 1962 Corvette is looking more and more like a 1953 Vette, the first one.
> It has a single head light per side and rounded fenders.
> This has caused me a few problems which I hope I can work my way around.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything is looking ok at this point till I started to make the seats and there's way to much space for your feet.
> Using the 1962 pictures for the out side and kind a guessing on the inside I made the inside way to large.
> I got back on the web and with some deep digging found some 1953 picture looking down on the inside so I can get the spacing right.
> So I had to take out half my work today and start over but all should work out in the end.
> The trunk and folding roof take up a lot more room than you would think.
> I had the space between the wind shield and back of the roof right but needed to make more room for the folding roof.
> 
> So here's my ouch pictures, after I got everything back under control I HOPE!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to make a cover to hide the bugger,the cover is needed so not really a problem in the long run.


Cockpit detailing is looking good Bruce!


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Chevy Corvette 1953 Chevy Corvette*
> 
> My 1962 Corvette is looking more and more like a 1953 Vette, the first one.
> It has a single head light per side and rounded fenders.
> This has caused me a few problems which I hope I can work my way around.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything is looking ok at this point till I started to make the seats and there's way to much space for your feet.
> Using the 1962 pictures for the out side and kind a guessing on the inside I made the inside way to large.
> I got back on the web and with some deep digging found some 1953 picture looking down on the inside so I can get the spacing right.
> So I had to take out half my work today and start over but all should work out in the end.
> The trunk and folding roof take up a lot more room than you would think.
> I had the space between the wind shield and back of the roof right but needed to make more room for the folding roof.
> 
> So here's my ouch pictures, after I got everything back under control I HOPE!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to make a cover to hide the bugger,the cover is needed so not really a problem in the long run.


This is getting a very nice one. I like the inside, all that detail


----------



## robscastle

htl said:


> *Chevy Corvette 1953 Chevy Corvette*
> 
> My 1962 Corvette is looking more and more like a 1953 Vette, the first one.
> It has a single head light per side and rounded fenders.
> This has caused me a few problems which I hope I can work my way around.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything is looking ok at this point till I started to make the seats and there's way to much space for your feet.
> Using the 1962 pictures for the out side and kind a guessing on the inside I made the inside way to large.
> I got back on the web and with some deep digging found some 1953 picture looking down on the inside so I can get the spacing right.
> So I had to take out half my work today and start over but all should work out in the end.
> The trunk and folding roof take up a lot more room than you would think.
> I had the space between the wind shield and back of the roof right but needed to make more room for the folding roof.
> 
> So here's my ouch pictures, after I got everything back under control I HOPE!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to make a cover to hide the bugger,the cover is needed so not really a problem in the long run.


Too much leg room? John Wayne would have loved it!
Now a bit of trivia for you, many years ago a friend had a straight 8 Buick, you could actually stand up and walk around in the back seat area!


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Chevy Corvette 1953 Chevy Corvette*
> 
> My 1962 Corvette is looking more and more like a 1953 Vette, the first one.
> It has a single head light per side and rounded fenders.
> This has caused me a few problems which I hope I can work my way around.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything is looking ok at this point till I started to make the seats and there's way to much space for your feet.
> Using the 1962 pictures for the out side and kind a guessing on the inside I made the inside way to large.
> I got back on the web and with some deep digging found some 1953 picture looking down on the inside so I can get the spacing right.
> So I had to take out half my work today and start over but all should work out in the end.
> The trunk and folding roof take up a lot more room than you would think.
> I had the space between the wind shield and back of the roof right but needed to make more room for the folding roof.
> 
> So here's my ouch pictures, after I got everything back under control I HOPE!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to make a cover to hide the bugger,the cover is needed so not really a problem in the long run.


Very nice start looking good.


----------



## stefang

htl said:


> *Chevy Corvette 1953 Chevy Corvette*
> 
> My 1962 Corvette is looking more and more like a 1953 Vette, the first one.
> It has a single head light per side and rounded fenders.
> This has caused me a few problems which I hope I can work my way around.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything is looking ok at this point till I started to make the seats and there's way to much space for your feet.
> Using the 1962 pictures for the out side and kind a guessing on the inside I made the inside way to large.
> I got back on the web and with some deep digging found some 1953 picture looking down on the inside so I can get the spacing right.
> So I had to take out half my work today and start over but all should work out in the end.
> The trunk and folding roof take up a lot more room than you would think.
> I had the space between the wind shield and back of the roof right but needed to make more room for the folding roof.
> 
> So here's my ouch pictures, after I got everything back under control I HOPE!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to make a cover to hide the bugger,the cover is needed so not really a problem in the long run.


Really really fine work. I can't wait to see it finished!


----------



## htl

*Chevy Corvette 1953 Making what's wrong right*

I guess I'm not much of a modern car builder, give me square parts and all is well. lol

Here's the bad part and then the fix.










There's a lot a work that went on between these two pictures.




































Now we got her back to right.
I know this isn't true Vette styling but it is what it is.
I am having a hard time coming up with a seat that works so will be playing with the wheels and sleep on the seat thing.


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Chevy Corvette 1953 Making what's wrong right*
> 
> I guess I'm not much of a modern car builder, give me square parts and all is well. lol
> 
> Here's the bad part and then the fix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a lot a work that went on between these two pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we got her back to right.
> I know this isn't true Vette styling but it is what it is.
> I am having a hard time coming up with a seat that works so will be playing with the wheels and sleep on the seat thing.


Well, well, what you have done really looks good, as for the true Vette design if it varies a little so what Jazz it up into a customized sports car.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Chevy Corvette 1953 Making what's wrong right*
> 
> I guess I'm not much of a modern car builder, give me square parts and all is well. lol
> 
> Here's the bad part and then the fix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a lot a work that went on between these two pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we got her back to right.
> I know this isn't true Vette styling but it is what it is.
> I am having a hard time coming up with a seat that works so will be playing with the wheels and sleep on the seat thing.





> Well, well, what you have done really looks good, as for the true Vette design *if it varies a little so what Jazz it up into a customized sports car.
> *
> - oldrivers


Thanks Oldrivers I needed that!!!


----------



## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Chevy Corvette 1953 Making what's wrong right*
> 
> I guess I'm not much of a modern car builder, give me square parts and all is well. lol
> 
> Here's the bad part and then the fix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a lot a work that went on between these two pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we got her back to right.
> I know this isn't true Vette styling but it is what it is.
> I am having a hard time coming up with a seat that works so will be playing with the wheels and sleep on the seat thing.





> Well, well, what you have done really looks good, as for the true Vette design if it varies a little so what Jazz it up into a customized sports car.
> 
> - oldrivers


I agree totally. It is looking good. Innovation is what creates new things!


----------



## johnstoneb

htl said:


> *Chevy Corvette 1953 Making what's wrong right*
> 
> I guess I'm not much of a modern car builder, give me square parts and all is well. lol
> 
> Here's the bad part and then the fix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a lot a work that went on between these two pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we got her back to right.
> I know this isn't true Vette styling but it is what it is.
> I am having a hard time coming up with a seat that works so will be playing with the wheels and sleep on the seat thing.


Looks like a vette to me. good job


----------



## hookfoot

htl said:


> *Chevy Corvette 1953 Making what's wrong right*
> 
> I guess I'm not much of a modern car builder, give me square parts and all is well. lol
> 
> Here's the bad part and then the fix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a lot a work that went on between these two pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we got her back to right.
> I know this isn't true Vette styling but it is what it is.
> I am having a hard time coming up with a seat that works so will be playing with the wheels and sleep on the seat thing.


I believe you have worked outside of the box before. Good work. A good mechanic will figure it out.


----------



## hunter71

htl said:


> *Chevy Corvette 1953 Making what's wrong right*
> 
> I guess I'm not much of a modern car builder, give me square parts and all is well. lol
> 
> Here's the bad part and then the fix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a lot a work that went on between these two pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we got her back to right.
> I know this isn't true Vette styling but it is what it is.
> I am having a hard time coming up with a seat that works so will be playing with the wheels and sleep on the seat thing.


I can see a Corvette in there.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Chevy Corvette 1953 Making what's wrong right*
> 
> I guess I'm not much of a modern car builder, give me square parts and all is well. lol
> 
> Here's the bad part and then the fix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a lot a work that went on between these two pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we got her back to right.
> I know this isn't true Vette styling but it is what it is.
> I am having a hard time coming up with a seat that works so will be playing with the wheels and sleep on the seat thing.


Looking good!


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Chevy Corvette 1953 Making what's wrong right*
> 
> I guess I'm not much of a modern car builder, give me square parts and all is well. lol
> 
> Here's the bad part and then the fix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a lot a work that went on between these two pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we got her back to right.
> I know this isn't true Vette styling but it is what it is.
> I am having a hard time coming up with a seat that works so will be playing with the wheels and sleep on the seat thing.


Well done.


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## robscastle

htl said:


> *Chevy Corvette 1953 Making what's wrong right*
> 
> I guess I'm not much of a modern car builder, give me square parts and all is well. lol
> 
> Here's the bad part and then the fix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a lot a work that went on between these two pictures.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we got her back to right.
> I know this isn't true Vette styling but it is what it is.
> I am having a hard time coming up with a seat that works so will be playing with the wheels and sleep on the seat thing.


As I am not really that familar with some of the unique Americian auto icons I cannot comment on the design aspects you have used, however I do know the grain images you have achieved in the build sure make constructing from wood something else.
Try creating that effect in tin!


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## htl

htl said:


> *Chevy Corvette 1953 Making what's wrong right*
> 
> I guess I'm not much of a modern car builder, give me square parts and all is well. lol
> 
> Here's the bad part and then the fix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a lot a work that went on between these two pictures.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Now we got her back to right.
> I know this isn't true Vette styling but it is what it is.
> I am having a hard time coming up with a seat that works so will be playing with the wheels and sleep on the seat thing.


Robscastle 
I'll bet they could wrap it in vinyl and get the look but bet it would be way ugly. LOL


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## stefang

htl said:


> *Chevy Corvette 1953 Making what's wrong right*
> 
> I guess I'm not much of a modern car builder, give me square parts and all is well. lol
> 
> Here's the bad part and then the fix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a lot a work that went on between these two pictures.
> 
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> 
> Now we got her back to right.
> I know this isn't true Vette styling but it is what it is.
> I am having a hard time coming up with a seat that works so will be playing with the wheels and sleep on the seat thing.


The quality of your work will surely outshine any small differences from the original.


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## htl

*Ford pickup 1951*

Got a slow start on the 1951 Pickup.
This is a Toys and Joys plan, in maple.
There are quite a few Beautiful ford pickups on the site so here's my slant on it.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Ford pickup 1951*
> 
> Got a slow start on the 1951 Pickup.
> This is a Toys and Joys plan, in maple.
> There are quite a few Beautiful ford pickups on the site so here's my slant on it.


looks real close to a ford hood for sure I can certainly tell it is a Ford :<)))


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Ford pickup 1951*
> 
> Got a slow start on the 1951 Pickup.
> This is a Toys and Joys plan, in maple.
> There are quite a few Beautiful ford pickups on the site so here's my slant on it.





> looks real close to a ford hood for sure I can certainly tell it is a Ford :<)))
> 
> - GR8HUNTER


I am old enough to have seen them when they were new!


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## htl

htl said:


> *Ford pickup 1951*
> 
> Got a slow start on the 1951 Pickup.
> This is a Toys and Joys plan, in maple.
> There are quite a few Beautiful ford pickups on the site so here's my slant on it.


I was two years old.


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## stefang

htl said:


> *Ford pickup 1951*
> 
> Got a slow start on the 1951 Pickup.
> This is a Toys and Joys plan, in maple.
> There are quite a few Beautiful ford pickups on the site so here's my slant on it.


Looks good so far.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Ford pickup 1951*
> 
> Got a slow start on the 1951 Pickup.
> This is a Toys and Joys plan, in maple.
> There are quite a few Beautiful ford pickups on the site so here's my slant on it.


Got a little more done.


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## robscastle

htl said:


> *Ford pickup 1951*
> 
> Got a slow start on the 1951 Pickup.
> This is a Toys and Joys plan, in maple.
> There are quite a few Beautiful ford pickups on the site so here's my slant on it.


I was either less than 1 YO or still cooking! depends upon the model release month.
if the release date was pre May 1951 I was still hiding, if post May 1951 1 to 6 months

As for a slow start, ... I am still behind you muddling about with my wheels project, as they say the wheels of a big machine turn slowly.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Ford pickup 1951*
> 
> Got a slow start on the 1951 Pickup.
> This is a Toys and Joys plan, in maple.
> There are quite a few Beautiful ford pickups on the site so here's my slant on it.


I'm loving that classic bench seat #4 :<))


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## htl

htl said:


> *Ford pickup 1951*
> 
> Got a slow start on the 1951 Pickup.
> This is a Toys and Joys plan, in maple.
> There are quite a few Beautiful ford pickups on the site so here's my slant on it.


And a little more.
The back hood and grille aren't glued up yet, got a lot a sanding to do before that happens but you get the idea.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Ford pickup 1951*
> 
> Got a slow start on the 1951 Pickup.
> This is a Toys and Joys plan, in maple.
> There are quite a few Beautiful ford pickups on the site so here's my slant on it.


very cool looking 55 grill #4 LOVE IT :<))


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## htl

htl said:


> *Ford pickup 1951*
> 
> Got a slow start on the 1951 Pickup.
> This is a Toys and Joys plan, in maple.
> There are quite a few Beautiful ford pickups on the site so here's my slant on it.


Look at the front center of the grill there's a not right in the center, I couldn't have put it there if I tried but there it is???


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## Dakkar

htl said:


> *Ford pickup 1951*
> 
> Got a slow start on the 1951 Pickup.
> This is a Toys and Joys plan, in maple.
> There are quite a few Beautiful ford pickups on the site so here's my slant on it.


I like it. That totally captures the look of my grandpa's black Ford PU. It had an a oval rope-bordered sticker in the rear window that said "Made in Texas by Texans".


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## htl

htl said:


> *Ford pickup 1951*
> 
> Got a slow start on the 1951 Pickup.
> This is a Toys and Joys plan, in maple.
> There are quite a few Beautiful ford pickups on the site so here's my slant on it.





> Look at the front center of the grill there s a not right in the center, I couldn't have put it there if I tried but there it is???
> 
> - htl


Sorry I meant to write hood. Not in front of hood.


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## daleb56

htl said:


> *Ford pickup 1951*
> 
> Got a slow start on the 1951 Pickup.
> This is a Toys and Joys plan, in maple.
> There are quite a few Beautiful ford pickups on the site so here's my slant on it.


Hi,

I am in the process of building the 1951 Ford Pickup.

Can you tell me the process you used to cut the 1/16 kerf on the door frame?

Thanks !


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## htl

htl said:


> *Ford pickup 1951*
> 
> Got a slow start on the 1951 Pickup.
> This is a Toys and Joys plan, in maple.
> There are quite a few Beautiful ford pickups on the site so here's my slant on it.


I"M not the one to ask this as I all way try my best to come up with a way to not cut it in.
But this time I glues a paper pattern to the door side and cut it out with the scroll saw then cleaned it up with a file and sand paper.
There are far better ways to do it like build a pattern and then router it out but for me I don't have that kind a patience.
Now if I was going to build more than one I would go to the trouble maybe. :-]
Hope that helps.
#4 over and out.


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## hag

htl said:


> *Ford pickup 1951*
> 
> Got a slow start on the 1951 Pickup.
> This is a Toys and Joys plan, in maple.
> There are quite a few Beautiful ford pickups on the site so here's my slant on it.


alguien podria ayudarme con unos planos para hacerla?


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## htl

htl said:


> *Ford pickup 1951*
> 
> Got a slow start on the 1951 Pickup.
> This is a Toys and Joys plan, in maple.
> There are quite a few Beautiful ford pickups on the site so here's my slant on it.


Here's where I got the plans but if you're out of the US check out Dutchy's plans that you can down load.


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## htl

*Ford pickup 1955 glueing it up and getting ready for some wheels*

I haven't been in the shop for around two weeks as a monster of all ear infection had got the better of me, but did work the last two days so heading for the finish with this project.









I finely found a place for my last signature plate.


















Trying to figure out a way to use up some of my left over tires but may just have to make a set, we'll see.
I do like the look of a set a Dually on the back how about you?





































#4 over and out!


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## Budster

htl said:


> *Ford pickup 1955 glueing it up and getting ready for some wheels*
> 
> I haven't been in the shop for around two weeks as a monster of all ear infection had got the better of me, but did work the last two days so heading for the finish with this project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finely found a place for my last signature plate.
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> Trying to figure out a way to use up some of my left over tires but may just have to make a set, we'll see.
> I do like the look of a set a Dually on the back how about you?
> 
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> #4 over and out!


looking good.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Ford pickup 1955 glueing it up and getting ready for some wheels*
> 
> I haven't been in the shop for around two weeks as a monster of all ear infection had got the better of me, but did work the last two days so heading for the finish with this project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finely found a place for my last signature plate.
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> Trying to figure out a way to use up some of my left over tires but may just have to make a set, we'll see.
> I do like the look of a set a Dually on the back how about you?
> 
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> #4 over and out!


Love the duel tyres on the back Bruce. 
The truck is looking superb, the lines are excellent. 
Well done sir.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Ford pickup 1955 glueing it up and getting ready for some wheels*
> 
> I haven't been in the shop for around two weeks as a monster of all ear infection had got the better of me, but did work the last two days so heading for the finish with this project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finely found a place for my last signature plate.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trying to figure out a way to use up some of my left over tires but may just have to make a set, we'll see.
> I do like the look of a set a Dually on the back how about you?
> 
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> #4 over and out!


love this truck but them door kerfs *WOW GREAT JOB :<))*


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Ford pickup 1955 glueing it up and getting ready for some wheels*
> 
> I haven't been in the shop for around two weeks as a monster of all ear infection had got the better of me, but did work the last two days so heading for the finish with this project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finely found a place for my last signature plate.
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trying to figure out a way to use up some of my left over tires but may just have to make a set, we'll see.
> I do like the look of a set a Dually on the back how about you?
> 
> 
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> #4 over and out!


Good looking Ford Truck.


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## Jason1974

htl said:


> *Ford pickup 1955 glueing it up and getting ready for some wheels*
> 
> I haven't been in the shop for around two weeks as a monster of all ear infection had got the better of me, but did work the last two days so heading for the finish with this project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finely found a place for my last signature plate.
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> Trying to figure out a way to use up some of my left over tires but may just have to make a set, we'll see.
> I do like the look of a set a Dually on the back how about you?
> 
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> #4 over and out!


Bruce, That is one sweet ride. Great job.

Btw, what's up with the #4 thing. Did I miss something.


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## Redoak49

htl said:


> *Ford pickup 1955 glueing it up and getting ready for some wheels*
> 
> I haven't been in the shop for around two weeks as a monster of all ear infection had got the better of me, but did work the last two days so heading for the finish with this project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finely found a place for my last signature plate.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Trying to figure out a way to use up some of my left over tires but may just have to make a set, we'll see.
> I do like the look of a set a Dually on the back how about you?
> 
> 
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> #4 over and out!


Outstanding job of shaping and building.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Ford pickup 1955 glueing it up and getting ready for some wheels*
> 
> I haven't been in the shop for around two weeks as a monster of all ear infection had got the better of me, but did work the last two days so heading for the finish with this project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finely found a place for my last signature plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trying to figure out a way to use up some of my left over tires but may just have to make a set, we'll see.
> I do like the look of a set a Dually on the back how about you?
> 
> 
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> #4 over and out!


Jason there has been four Bruce's that build models here on LJ's and I'm the #4.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Ford pickup 1955 glueing it up and getting ready for some wheels*
> 
> I haven't been in the shop for around two weeks as a monster of all ear infection had got the better of me, but did work the last two days so heading for the finish with this project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finely found a place for my last signature plate.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Trying to figure out a way to use up some of my left over tires but may just have to make a set, we'll see.
> I do like the look of a set a Dually on the back how about you?
> 
> 
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> #4 over and out!





> Bruce, That is one sweet ride. Great job.
> 
> Btw, what s up with the #4 thing. Did I miss something.
> 
> - Jason1974


if I remember Ducky started that :<)))))


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## htl

htl said:


> *Ford pickup 1955 glueing it up and getting ready for some wheels*
> 
> I haven't been in the shop for around two weeks as a monster of all ear infection had got the better of me, but did work the last two days so heading for the finish with this project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finely found a place for my last signature plate.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Trying to figure out a way to use up some of my left over tires but may just have to make a set, we'll see.
> I do like the look of a set a Dually on the back how about you?
> 
> 
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> #4 over and out!


Yep! Ducky for the win.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Ford pickup 1955 glueing it up and getting ready for some wheels*
> 
> I haven't been in the shop for around two weeks as a monster of all ear infection had got the better of me, but did work the last two days so heading for the finish with this project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> I finely found a place for my last signature plate.
> 
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> 
> 
> Trying to figure out a way to use up some of my left over tires but may just have to make a set, we'll see.
> I do like the look of a set a Dually on the back how about you?
> 
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> #4 over and out!


ARRRR…. The name of the Bruce…

John Cleese was the one who made Bruce famous in Australia….

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bruces_sketch






My brother is a Bruce, top bloke and in the day when John Cleese came out with this Bruce jokes, my bother who was built like a brick dunny, got the nick name of Charlie after his love for Charlie Brown comics….


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## htl

htl said:


> *Ford pickup 1955 glueing it up and getting ready for some wheels*
> 
> I haven't been in the shop for around two weeks as a monster of all ear infection had got the better of me, but did work the last two days so heading for the finish with this project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finely found a place for my last signature plate.
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Trying to figure out a way to use up some of my left over tires but may just have to make a set, we'll see.
> I do like the look of a set a Dually on the back how about you?
> 
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> #4 over and out!


Crowie I hadn't seen that before, Way Funny!!!


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Ford pickup 1955 glueing it up and getting ready for some wheels*
> 
> I haven't been in the shop for around two weeks as a monster of all ear infection had got the better of me, but did work the last two days so heading for the finish with this project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finely found a place for my last signature plate.
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trying to figure out a way to use up some of my left over tires but may just have to make a set, we'll see.
> I do like the look of a set a Dually on the back how about you?
> 
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> #4 over and out!





> Crowie I hadn t seen that before, Way Funny!!!
> 
> - htl


Thank you Bruce for seeing the funny side of the crazy hilarious John Cleese.


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## ZAGREB

htl said:


> *Ford pickup 1955 glueing it up and getting ready for some wheels*
> 
> I haven't been in the shop for around two weeks as a monster of all ear infection had got the better of me, but did work the last two days so heading for the finish with this project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> I finely found a place for my last signature plate.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trying to figure out a way to use up some of my left over tires but may just have to make a set, we'll see.
> I do like the look of a set a Dually on the back how about you?
> 
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> #4 over and out!


fantastic work
when finish take a girl and go ride…


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## robscastle

htl said:


> *Ford pickup 1955 glueing it up and getting ready for some wheels*
> 
> I haven't been in the shop for around two weeks as a monster of all ear infection had got the better of me, but did work the last two days so heading for the finish with this project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> I finely found a place for my last signature plate.
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> Trying to figure out a way to use up some of my left over tires but may just have to make a set, we'll see.
> I do like the look of a set a Dually on the back how about you?
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> #4 over and out!


ear! ere! (just trying to out do crowies response)

Jason I think its got something to do with the number of Bruce's on the forum.
I vaguely remember asking the same question some time ago, possibly connected with LBD.

Opps I just saw the previous reply

Otherwise thats a very impressive job.

The other wheels put a Firestone badge on the side of the door and mount them in the back as a delivery truck.


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## Jason1974

htl said:


> *Ford pickup 1955 glueing it up and getting ready for some wheels*
> 
> I haven't been in the shop for around two weeks as a monster of all ear infection had got the better of me, but did work the last two days so heading for the finish with this project.
> 
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> I finely found a place for my last signature plate.
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> Trying to figure out a way to use up some of my left over tires but may just have to make a set, we'll see.
> I do like the look of a set a Dually on the back how about you?
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> #4 over and out!


I guess #4 it is then. haha

#4 hows the ear infection doing? Getting better I hope.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Ford pickup 1955 glueing it up and getting ready for some wheels*
> 
> I haven't been in the shop for around two weeks as a monster of all ear infection had got the better of me, but did work the last two days so heading for the finish with this project.
> 
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> I finely found a place for my last signature plate.
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> 
> Trying to figure out a way to use up some of my left over tires but may just have to make a set, we'll see.
> I do like the look of a set a Dually on the back how about you?
> 
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> #4 over and out!





> ARRRR…. The name of the Bruce…
> 
> John Cleese was the one who made Bruce famous in Australia….
> 
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bruces_sketch
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My brother is a Bruce, top bloke and in the day when John Cleese came out with this Bruce jokes, my bother who was built like a brick dunny, got the nick name of Charlie after his love for Charlie Brown comics….
> 
> - crowie


*Crowie I wondered why when I was in Sidney in 1970 every one laughed every time my name was said.*


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## htl

htl said:


> *Ford pickup 1955 glueing it up and getting ready for some wheels*
> 
> I haven't been in the shop for around two weeks as a monster of all ear infection had got the better of me, but did work the last two days so heading for the finish with this project.
> 
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> I finely found a place for my last signature plate.
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> Trying to figure out a way to use up some of my left over tires but may just have to make a set, we'll see.
> I do like the look of a set a Dually on the back how about you?
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> #4 over and out!





> fantastic work
> when finish take a girl and go ride…
> 
> - ZAGREB


Thanks ZAGREB
I just checked out your work and man, you've made some NICE PROJECTS!!!


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## bushmaster

htl said:


> *Ford pickup 1955 glueing it up and getting ready for some wheels*
> 
> I haven't been in the shop for around two weeks as a monster of all ear infection had got the better of me, but did work the last two days so heading for the finish with this project.
> 
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> I finely found a place for my last signature plate.
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> Trying to figure out a way to use up some of my left over tires but may just have to make a set, we'll see.
> I do like the look of a set a Dually on the back how about you?
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> #4 over and out!


nice, well done.


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## stefang

htl said:


> *Ford pickup 1955 glueing it up and getting ready for some wheels*
> 
> I haven't been in the shop for around two weeks as a monster of all ear infection had got the better of me, but did work the last two days so heading for the finish with this project.
> 
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> I finely found a place for my last signature plate.
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> 
> Trying to figure out a way to use up some of my left over tires but may just have to make a set, we'll see.
> I do like the look of a set a Dually on the back how about you?
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> #4 over and out!


This is looking awfully good. I hope you have a speedy recovery!


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## htl

*Ford pickup 1955 Made some wheels*

Made a set a wheels for the Ford.
Still a lot a clean up but you get the idea.
Don't know about the rims, I drilled the holes a little to close to the centers, so may need to try again.



























Funny to me the grill looks up side down but that's the way their designed.










May try again something like this front rim.









Here's how the wheels turned out.




































Project post is here.


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## Jason1974

htl said:


> *Ford pickup 1955 Made some wheels*
> 
> Made a set a wheels for the Ford.
> Still a lot a clean up but you get the idea.
> Don't know about the rims, I drilled the holes a little to close to the centers, so may need to try again.
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> Funny to me the grill looks up side down but that's the way their designed.
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> May try again something like this front rim.
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> Here's how the wheels turned out.
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> Project post is here.


Lookin good!


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Ford pickup 1955 Made some wheels*
> 
> Made a set a wheels for the Ford.
> Still a lot a clean up but you get the idea.
> Don't know about the rims, I drilled the holes a little to close to the centers, so may need to try again.
> 
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> Funny to me the grill looks up side down but that's the way their designed.
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> May try again something like this front rim.
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> Here's how the wheels turned out.
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> Project post is here.


We are our own worst enemy as we try to make things just right, to our eye….
Looking forward to what you come up with Bruce…


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## JulianLech

htl said:


> *Ford pickup 1955 Made some wheels*
> 
> Made a set a wheels for the Ford.
> Still a lot a clean up but you get the idea.
> Don't know about the rims, I drilled the holes a little to close to the centers, so may need to try again.
> 
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> Funny to me the grill looks up side down but that's the way their designed.
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> May try again something like this front rim.
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> Here's how the wheels turned out.
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> Project post is here.


Great looking truck.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Ford pickup 1955 Made some wheels*
> 
> Made a set a wheels for the Ford.
> Still a lot a clean up but you get the idea.
> Don't know about the rims, I drilled the holes a little to close to the centers, so may need to try again.
> 
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> Funny to me the grill looks up side down but that's the way their designed.
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> May try again something like this front rim.
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> Here's how the wheels turned out.
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> Project post is here.


if it was me I would slap them on and call it done they are really nice looking wheels and tires are top notch cant wait to see it done :<)))))
another awesome job #4


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Ford pickup 1955 Made some wheels*
> 
> Made a set a wheels for the Ford.
> Still a lot a clean up but you get the idea.
> Don't know about the rims, I drilled the holes a little to close to the centers, so may need to try again.
> 
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> Funny to me the grill looks up side down but that's the way their designed.
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> May try again something like this front rim.
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> Here's how the wheels turned out.
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> Project post is here.


Mighty fine glad to see you are still working on it.


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## bushmaster

htl said:


> *Ford pickup 1955 Made some wheels*
> 
> Made a set a wheels for the Ford.
> Still a lot a clean up but you get the idea.
> Don't know about the rims, I drilled the holes a little to close to the centers, so may need to try again.
> 
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> Funny to me the grill looks up side down but that's the way their designed.
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> May try again something like this front rim.
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> Here's how the wheels turned out.
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> Project post is here.


Beyond perfect as usual. Looking forward to the completed project.


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Ford pickup 1955 Made some wheels*
> 
> Made a set a wheels for the Ford.
> Still a lot a clean up but you get the idea.
> Don't know about the rims, I drilled the holes a little to close to the centers, so may need to try again.
> 
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> Funny to me the grill looks up side down but that's the way their designed.
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> May try again something like this front rim.
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> Here's how the wheels turned out.
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> Project post is here.


This is a great build and a nice model.


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## Redoak49

htl said:


> *Ford pickup 1955 Made some wheels*
> 
> Made a set a wheels for the Ford.
> Still a lot a clean up but you get the idea.
> Don't know about the rims, I drilled the holes a little to close to the centers, so may need to try again.
> 
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> Funny to me the grill looks up side down but that's the way their designed.
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> May try again something like this front rim.
> 
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> Here's how the wheels turned out.
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> Project post is here.


I am amazed with each of your posts. This build and shaping are great. The front end looks fantastic.


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## hookfoot

htl said:


> *Ford pickup 1955 Made some wheels*
> 
> Made a set a wheels for the Ford.
> Still a lot a clean up but you get the idea.
> Don't know about the rims, I drilled the holes a little to close to the centers, so may need to try again.
> 
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> Funny to me the grill looks up side down but that's the way their designed.
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> May try again something like this front rim.
> 
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> Here's how the wheels turned out.
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> Project post is here.


Beautiful. Only YOUR EYE will tell you when it is right.


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## htl

*1932 Buick Sedan #2*

1932 Buick Sedan #2
 
The project page is here.

Finally got up the gumption to get in the shop clean it up and start on the 32 Buick.
I get out of breath just walking to the shop but once I get sat down can get some work done. :-]









Going with walnut with oak trim this time around.
My cabinet shop friend got me some nice walnut chunks to play with.










I don't have the patience to glue on the small trim parts so will just make them part of the main build.


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #2*
> 
> 1932 Buick Sedan #2
> 
> The project page is here.
> 
> Finally got up the gumption to get in the shop clean it up and start on the 32 Buick.
> I get out of breath just walking to the shop but once I get sat down can get some work done. :-]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going with walnut with oak trim this time around.
> My cabinet shop friend got me some nice walnut chunks to play with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have the patience to glue on the small trim parts so will just make them part of the main build.


Good start keep us posted.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #2*
> 
> 1932 Buick Sedan #2
> 
> The project page is here.
> 
> Finally got up the gumption to get in the shop clean it up and start on the 32 Buick.
> I get out of breath just walking to the shop but once I get sat down can get some work done. :-]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going with walnut with oak trim this time around.
> My cabinet shop friend got me some nice walnut chunks to play with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have the patience to glue on the small trim parts so will just make them part of the main build.


And as per usual Bruce, you off and running quickly…

Looking good sir.


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## Budster

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #2*
> 
> 1932 Buick Sedan #2
> 
> The project page is here.
> 
> Finally got up the gumption to get in the shop clean it up and start on the 32 Buick.
> I get out of breath just walking to the shop but once I get sat down can get some work done. :-]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going with walnut with oak trim this time around.
> My cabinet shop friend got me some nice walnut chunks to play with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have the patience to glue on the small trim parts so will just make them part of the main build.


Looking real good so far, and as we have learned here , it will be top of the line.


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## htl

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #2*
> 
> 1932 Buick Sedan #2
> 
> The project page is here.
> 
> Finally got up the gumption to get in the shop clean it up and start on the 32 Buick.
> I get out of breath just walking to the shop but once I get sat down can get some work done. :-]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going with walnut with oak trim this time around.
> My cabinet shop friend got me some nice walnut chunks to play with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have the patience to glue on the small trim parts so will just make them part of the main build.


Crowie there ain't nothing quick about this one got 3 short days in it and yesterday I went out to the shop and had forgot to turn the power on in the house so went back in and that finished that day.
If I can get out there and sit down I can catch my breath and get some work done, if not well.
Maybe now that it's getting warm out side I can get some gumption up.
It sure felt good playing in the shop and then having something to show on here always makes my day. :-]


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## Jason1974

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #2*
> 
> 1932 Buick Sedan #2
> 
> The project page is here.
> 
> Finally got up the gumption to get in the shop clean it up and start on the 32 Buick.
> I get out of breath just walking to the shop but once I get sat down can get some work done. :-]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going with walnut with oak trim this time around.
> My cabinet shop friend got me some nice walnut chunks to play with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have the patience to glue on the small trim parts so will just make them part of the main build.


Looks good Bruce. You are just about where I'm at. I was too far into the project to start a blog. Wish I had started a blog at the beginning.


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## htl

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #2*
> 
> 1932 Buick Sedan #2
> 
> The project page is here.
> 
> Finally got up the gumption to get in the shop clean it up and start on the 32 Buick.
> I get out of breath just walking to the shop but once I get sat down can get some work done. :-]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going with walnut with oak trim this time around.
> My cabinet shop friend got me some nice walnut chunks to play with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have the patience to glue on the small trim parts so will just make them part of the main build.


Jason just keep adding to the bottom of your project post since it's already started.
Always nice to see progress.


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #2*
> 
> 1932 Buick Sedan #2
> 
> The project page is here.
> 
> Finally got up the gumption to get in the shop clean it up and start on the 32 Buick.
> I get out of breath just walking to the shop but once I get sat down can get some work done. :-]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going with walnut with oak trim this time around.
> My cabinet shop friend got me some nice walnut chunks to play with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have the patience to glue on the small trim parts so will just make them part of the main build.


Bruce you made my day, and he just is started. I hope you will enjoy making this one despide your breath limitation. It's also nice to see some #4 influences. I have made mirrors on it, but from historical view it's maybe better not to place them


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## htl

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #2*
> 
> 1932 Buick Sedan #2
> 
> The project page is here.
> 
> Finally got up the gumption to get in the shop clean it up and start on the 32 Buick.
> I get out of breath just walking to the shop but once I get sat down can get some work done. :-]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going with walnut with oak trim this time around.
> My cabinet shop friend got me some nice walnut chunks to play with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have the patience to glue on the small trim parts so will just make them part of the main build.


Are we starting that up again? :-[


----------



## FrenchGoattoys

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #2*
> 
> 1932 Buick Sedan #2
> 
> The project page is here.
> 
> Finally got up the gumption to get in the shop clean it up and start on the 32 Buick.
> I get out of breath just walking to the shop but once I get sat down can get some work done. :-]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going with walnut with oak trim this time around.
> My cabinet shop friend got me some nice walnut chunks to play with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have the patience to glue on the small trim parts so will just make them part of the main build.


Looks good. You made more progress in a day then I did in the last few weeks. I need to get busy. Oh, wait, I am busy; that is part of my problem, alas.

My dad had a similar breath issue. We put a resting stump between his house and the shop/barn. Of course it wasn't worth much in the winter, but the rest of the year it helped. He could not get far without needing to sit.


----------



## Woodbridge

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #2*
> 
> 1932 Buick Sedan #2
> 
> The project page is here.
> 
> Finally got up the gumption to get in the shop clean it up and start on the 32 Buick.
> I get out of breath just walking to the shop but once I get sat down can get some work done. :-]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going with walnut with oak trim this time around.
> My cabinet shop friend got me some nice walnut chunks to play with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have the patience to glue on the small trim parts so will just make them part of the main build.


Looks good. Looking forward to the next instalment


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #2*
> 
> 1932 Buick Sedan #2
> 
> The project page is here.
> 
> Finally got up the gumption to get in the shop clean it up and start on the 32 Buick.
> I get out of breath just walking to the shop but once I get sat down can get some work done. :-]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going with walnut with oak trim this time around.
> My cabinet shop friend got me some nice walnut chunks to play with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have the patience to glue on the small trim parts so will just make them part of the main build.


This is about 6-7 hours work spread over 3 days, not my usual hit it and get it but having some fun with it. :-]


----------



## farmergreg

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #2*
> 
> 1932 Buick Sedan #2
> 
> The project page is here.
> 
> Finally got up the gumption to get in the shop clean it up and start on the 32 Buick.
> I get out of breath just walking to the shop but once I get sat down can get some work done. :-]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going with walnut with oak trim this time around.
> My cabinet shop friend got me some nice walnut chunks to play with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have the patience to glue on the small trim parts so will just make them part of the main build.


awesome car


----------



## stefang

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #2*
> 
> 1932 Buick Sedan #2
> 
> The project page is here.
> 
> Finally got up the gumption to get in the shop clean it up and start on the 32 Buick.
> I get out of breath just walking to the shop but once I get sat down can get some work done. :-]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going with walnut with oak trim this time around.
> My cabinet shop friend got me some nice walnut chunks to play with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have the patience to glue on the small trim parts so will just make them part of the main build.


I like the walnut and you did a great job on the trim. Hope the warmer weather will make it easier for you to be in the shop (and otherwise). I think my time in the shop does me more good than the tons of meds I take every day.


----------



## htl

*1932 Buick Sedan #3*

Got a little more done.


















Shaping the roof.
I super glue a square chunk a scrap to the bottom and this keeps everything squared up to sand to the mark.


















When done just hit it with something and it's done.









I was going to use walnut but had this wild looking block a oak.


















As always have to see what it will look like with some wheels but was happy to find I already have some tires made up, just need to build the spoke rims.


----------



## hunter71

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #3*
> 
> Got a little more done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping the roof.
> I super glue a square chunk a scrap to the bottom and this keeps everything squared up to sand to the mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When done just hit it with something and it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was going to use walnut but had this wild looking block a oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always have to see what it will look like with some wheels but was happy to find I already have some tires made up, just need to build the spoke rims.


Almost done


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #3*
> 
> Got a little more done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping the roof.
> I super glue a square chunk a scrap to the bottom and this keeps everything squared up to sand to the mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When done just hit it with something and it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was going to use walnut but had this wild looking block a oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always have to see what it will look like with some wheels but was happy to find I already have some tires made up, just need to build the spoke rims.


Well got all the fun easy stuff done. LOL
The radiator is always interesting.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #3*
> 
> Got a little more done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping the roof.
> I super glue a square chunk a scrap to the bottom and this keeps everything squared up to sand to the mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When done just hit it with something and it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was going to use walnut but had this wild looking block a oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always have to see what it will look like with some wheels but was happy to find I already have some tires made up, just need to build the spoke rims.


cant wait too seee it with a finish on it should really pop :<)))


----------



## sras

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #3*
> 
> Got a little more done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping the roof.
> I super glue a square chunk a scrap to the bottom and this keeps everything squared up to sand to the mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When done just hit it with something and it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was going to use walnut but had this wild looking block a oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always have to see what it will look like with some wheels but was happy to find I already have some tires made up, just need to build the spoke rims.


Gettin' there!


----------



## doubleDD

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #3*
> 
> Got a little more done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping the roof.
> I super glue a square chunk a scrap to the bottom and this keeps everything squared up to sand to the mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When done just hit it with something and it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was going to use walnut but had this wild looking block a oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always have to see what it will look like with some wheels but was happy to find I already have some tires made up, just need to build the spoke rims.


I like where you're going with this. Great so far.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #3*
> 
> Got a little more done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping the roof.
> I super glue a square chunk a scrap to the bottom and this keeps everything squared up to sand to the mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When done just hit it with something and it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was going to use walnut but had this wild looking block a oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always have to see what it will look like with some wheels but was happy to find I already have some tires made up, just need to build the spoke rims.


You're halfway, keep going!


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #3*
> 
> Got a little more done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping the roof.
> I super glue a square chunk a scrap to the bottom and this keeps everything squared up to sand to the mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When done just hit it with something and it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was going to use walnut but had this wild looking block a oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always have to see what it will look like with some wheels but was happy to find I already have some tires made up, just need to build the spoke rims.


It's looking very good Bruce!


----------



## bj383ss

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #3*
> 
> Got a little more done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping the roof.
> I super glue a square chunk a scrap to the bottom and this keeps everything squared up to sand to the mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When done just hit it with something and it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was going to use walnut but had this wild looking block a oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always have to see what it will look like with some wheels but was happy to find I already have some tires made up, just need to build the spoke rims.


Looks awesome!

Bret


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #3*
> 
> Got a little more done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping the roof.
> I super glue a square chunk a scrap to the bottom and this keeps everything squared up to sand to the mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When done just hit it with something and it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was going to use walnut but had this wild looking block a oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always have to see what it will look like with some wheels but was happy to find I already have some tires made up, just need to build the spoke rims.


Thanks guys, I'm really happy with the wood my friend gave me so I would be able to build Dutchy's car from a darker wood point of view.

Kinda reminds me of one of them old taxi cabs.


----------



## stefang

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #3*
> 
> Got a little more done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping the roof.
> I super glue a square chunk a scrap to the bottom and this keeps everything squared up to sand to the mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When done just hit it with something and it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was going to use walnut but had this wild looking block a oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always have to see what it will look like with some wheels but was happy to find I already have some tires made up, just need to build the spoke rims.


Right, now you have a hot rod Buick sedan. Very nice work so far. Waiting to seen how you do the fenders.


----------



## htl

*1932 Buick Sedan #4*

Filling in the blank pages.
Radiator check.


















Made up the fenders but will wait for wheels to check fit. 









Then on to the bonnet vents.









Last played with the luggage rack.










Tomorrow may get started on the wheels and these are just a tad different than my last try, so we'll see how that works out. lol


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #4*
> 
> Filling in the blank pages.
> Radiator check.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made up the fenders but will wait for wheels to check fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the bonnet vents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last played with the luggage rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow may get started on the wheels and these are just a tad different than my last try, so we'll see how that works out. lol


looking really nice #4 :<))))) I have to get back out in the shop myself with being in the hospital again its not too much fun :<))


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #4*
> 
> Filling in the blank pages.
> Radiator check.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made up the fenders but will wait for wheels to check fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the bonnet vents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last played with the luggage rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow may get started on the wheels and these are just a tad different than my last try, so we'll see how that works out. lol


Well on your way to a beautiful build.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #4*
> 
> Filling in the blank pages.
> Radiator check.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made up the fenders but will wait for wheels to check fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the bonnet vents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last played with the luggage rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow may get started on the wheels and these are just a tad different than my last try, so we'll see how that works out. lol


My goodness Tony ain't ether one of us in very good shape here lately. :-[
Maybe spring getting here will help us out.


----------



## stefang

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #4*
> 
> Filling in the blank pages.
> Radiator check.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made up the fenders but will wait for wheels to check fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the bonnet vents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last played with the luggage rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow may get started on the wheels and these are just a tad different than my last try, so we'll see how that works out. lol


Wow, this is looking really good and nice progress too. The fenders came out beautiful.


----------



## doubleDD

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #4*
> 
> Filling in the blank pages.
> Radiator check.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made up the fenders but will wait for wheels to check fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the bonnet vents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last played with the luggage rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow may get started on the wheels and these are just a tad different than my last try, so we'll see how that works out. lol


I don't see any leaks in the radiator. I'm getting a big kick out of the cargo box. Keep it up.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #4*
> 
> Filling in the blank pages.
> Radiator check.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made up the fenders but will wait for wheels to check fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the bonnet vents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last played with the luggage rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow may get started on the wheels and these are just a tad different than my last try, so we'll see how that works out. lol





> looking really nice #4 :<))))) I have to get back out in the shop myself with being in the hospital again its not too much fun :<))
> 
> - GR8HUNTER


I wish you the best!


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #4*
> 
> Filling in the blank pages.
> Radiator check.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made up the fenders but will wait for wheels to check fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the bonnet vents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last played with the luggage rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow may get started on the wheels and these are just a tad different than my last try, so we'll see how that works out. lol


Nice work Bruce, I'm enjoying.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #4*
> 
> Filling in the blank pages.
> Radiator check.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made up the fenders but will wait for wheels to check fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the bonnet vents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last played with the luggage rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow may get started on the wheels and these are just a tad different than my last try, so we'll see how that works out. lol


I've built a couple of these old style cars now and they're so much fun to make and a real joy to have on the shelf.
1932 seems to be a great year for model car builders. :-]


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #4*
> 
> Filling in the blank pages.
> Radiator check.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made up the fenders but will wait for wheels to check fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the bonnet vents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last played with the luggage rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow may get started on the wheels and these are just a tad different than my last try, so we'll see how that works out. lol


Looking great Bruce, even if we'd like the steering wheel on the other side downunder…

Has the plans got left and right hand steering wheel options??


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #4*
> 
> Filling in the blank pages.
> Radiator check.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made up the fenders but will wait for wheels to check fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the bonnet vents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last played with the luggage rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow may get started on the wheels and these are just a tad different than my last try, so we'll see how that works out. lol


Crowie don't be making fun of my steering wheel or I may just have to come over there and have a talk. :-[


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #4*
> 
> Filling in the blank pages.
> Radiator check.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made up the fenders but will wait for wheels to check fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the bonnet vents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last played with the luggage rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow may get started on the wheels and these are just a tad different than my last try, so we'll see how that works out. lol





> Crowie don t be making fun of my steering wheel or I may just have to come over there and have a talk. :-[
> 
> - htl


No disrespect intended Bruce, just stating a fact on the Aussie driving position….

BUT does the plans have a left and right hand steering wheel options or is that a question for Dutchy??

If you're coming over for a chat, don't walk, it's a bit far!!!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #4*
> 
> Filling in the blank pages.
> Radiator check.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made up the fenders but will wait for wheels to check fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the bonnet vents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last played with the luggage rack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow may get started on the wheels and these are just a tad different than my last try, so we'll see how that works out. lol


LOL You know now that I think of it, it is a bit far to go. lol
It doesn't really matter if it's on the right side or wrong side you can get where you need to go with ether one.


----------



## htl

*1932 Buick Sedan #6 Wheels and fenders glued up*

This is my third time making these spoke wheels.
I feel like I did a better job last time being bigger they show off the spokes better, but hey got to keep trying new things.

I already had some tire blanks made up, when the tools set up it pays to make more.
So drilled out the centers and made some walnut rim blanks.









See the rims with the centers cut out where the spokes will go I did this on the drill press with my Harbor Freight hole saw set.
I figured out what I needed between the rim and axle post and just kept using the different sized hole saw bits till I had it all cut out, then just a little scraping with a wood chisel to smooth out the bottom and it's made. No lathe work for these wheels. lol

One more tip don't drill all the way through leave a 1/8" to hold it all together till the spokes are drilled.










Been needing a way to speed up the marking of the blanks so built a jig that holds the blank to the pattern so every thing goes much faster and gets it right.
I used to glue the pattern on the wood but many times the pattern would not be centered so this jig works much better.










Fast foreword and the spokes are drilled and glued in, you need to check out my last spoke how to to see how it's done.
The lighter wheels are the extras from my last spoke build.









Took the rims to the drum sander and sanded to fit the tires.


















Then I could mount them and see how the fenders needed to fit.



























The project page is here.


----------



## Redoak49

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #6 Wheels and fenders glued up*
> 
> This is my third time making these spoke wheels.
> I feel like I did a better job last time being bigger they show off the spokes better, but hey got to keep trying new things.
> 
> I already had some tire blanks made up, when the tools set up it pays to make more.
> So drilled out the centers and made some walnut rim blanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See the rims with the centers cut out where the spokes will go I did this on the drill press with my Harbor Freight hole saw set.
> I figured out what I needed between the rim and axle post and just kept using the different sized hole saw bits till I had it all cut out, then just a little scraping with a wood chisel to smooth out the bottom and it's made. No lathe work for these wheels. lol
> 
> One more tip don't drill all the way through leave a 1/8" to hold it all together till the spokes are drilled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Been needing a way to speed up the marking of the blanks so built a jig that holds the blank to the pattern so every thing goes much faster and gets it right.
> I used to glue the pattern on the wood but many times the pattern would not be centered so this jig works much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fast foreword and the spokes are drilled and glued in, you need to check out my last spoke how to to see how it's done.
> The lighter wheels are the extras from my last spoke build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took the rims to the drum sander and sanded to fit the tires.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I could mount them and see how the fenders needed to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The project page is here.


Phenomenal…


----------



## sras

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #6 Wheels and fenders glued up*
> 
> This is my third time making these spoke wheels.
> I feel like I did a better job last time being bigger they show off the spokes better, but hey got to keep trying new things.
> 
> I already had some tire blanks made up, when the tools set up it pays to make more.
> So drilled out the centers and made some walnut rim blanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See the rims with the centers cut out where the spokes will go I did this on the drill press with my Harbor Freight hole saw set.
> I figured out what I needed between the rim and axle post and just kept using the different sized hole saw bits till I had it all cut out, then just a little scraping with a wood chisel to smooth out the bottom and it's made. No lathe work for these wheels. lol
> 
> One more tip don't drill all the way through leave a 1/8" to hold it all together till the spokes are drilled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Been needing a way to speed up the marking of the blanks so built a jig that holds the blank to the pattern so every thing goes much faster and gets it right.
> I used to glue the pattern on the wood but many times the pattern would not be centered so this jig works much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fast foreword and the spokes are drilled and glued in, you need to check out my last spoke how to to see how it's done.
> The lighter wheels are the extras from my last spoke build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took the rims to the drum sander and sanded to fit the tires.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I could mount them and see how the fenders needed to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The project page is here.


This is turning into a real classy build!


----------



## stefang

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #6 Wheels and fenders glued up*
> 
> This is my third time making these spoke wheels.
> I feel like I did a better job last time being bigger they show off the spokes better, but hey got to keep trying new things.
> 
> I already had some tire blanks made up, when the tools set up it pays to make more.
> So drilled out the centers and made some walnut rim blanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See the rims with the centers cut out where the spokes will go I did this on the drill press with my Harbor Freight hole saw set.
> I figured out what I needed between the rim and axle post and just kept using the different sized hole saw bits till I had it all cut out, then just a little scraping with a wood chisel to smooth out the bottom and it's made. No lathe work for these wheels. lol
> 
> One more tip don't drill all the way through leave a 1/8" to hold it all together till the spokes are drilled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Been needing a way to speed up the marking of the blanks so built a jig that holds the blank to the pattern so every thing goes much faster and gets it right.
> I used to glue the pattern on the wood but many times the pattern would not be centered so this jig works much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fast foreword and the spokes are drilled and glued in, you need to check out my last spoke how to to see how it's done.
> The lighter wheels are the extras from my last spoke build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took the rims to the drum sander and sanded to fit the tires.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I could mount them and see how the fenders needed to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The project page is here.


Really nice spoke wheels Bruce. The model is looking super.


----------



## Jason1974

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #6 Wheels and fenders glued up*
> 
> This is my third time making these spoke wheels.
> I feel like I did a better job last time being bigger they show off the spokes better, but hey got to keep trying new things.
> 
> I already had some tire blanks made up, when the tools set up it pays to make more.
> So drilled out the centers and made some walnut rim blanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See the rims with the centers cut out where the spokes will go I did this on the drill press with my Harbor Freight hole saw set.
> I figured out what I needed between the rim and axle post and just kept using the different sized hole saw bits till I had it all cut out, then just a little scraping with a wood chisel to smooth out the bottom and it's made. No lathe work for these wheels. lol
> 
> One more tip don't drill all the way through leave a 1/8" to hold it all together till the spokes are drilled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Been needing a way to speed up the marking of the blanks so built a jig that holds the blank to the pattern so every thing goes much faster and gets it right.
> I used to glue the pattern on the wood but many times the pattern would not be centered so this jig works much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fast foreword and the spokes are drilled and glued in, you need to check out my last spoke how to to see how it's done.
> The lighter wheels are the extras from my last spoke build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took the rims to the drum sander and sanded to fit the tires.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I could mount them and see how the fenders needed to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The project page is here.


Man, that looks freaking awesome. Those wheels… my mouth is still open.


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #6 Wheels and fenders glued up*
> 
> This is my third time making these spoke wheels.
> I feel like I did a better job last time being bigger they show off the spokes better, but hey got to keep trying new things.
> 
> I already had some tire blanks made up, when the tools set up it pays to make more.
> So drilled out the centers and made some walnut rim blanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See the rims with the centers cut out where the spokes will go I did this on the drill press with my Harbor Freight hole saw set.
> I figured out what I needed between the rim and axle post and just kept using the different sized hole saw bits till I had it all cut out, then just a little scraping with a wood chisel to smooth out the bottom and it's made. No lathe work for these wheels. lol
> 
> One more tip don't drill all the way through leave a 1/8" to hold it all together till the spokes are drilled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Been needing a way to speed up the marking of the blanks so built a jig that holds the blank to the pattern so every thing goes much faster and gets it right.
> I used to glue the pattern on the wood but many times the pattern would not be centered so this jig works much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fast foreword and the spokes are drilled and glued in, you need to check out my last spoke how to to see how it's done.
> The lighter wheels are the extras from my last spoke build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took the rims to the drum sander and sanded to fit the tires.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I could mount them and see how the fenders needed to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The project page is here.


*outstanding!*


----------



## ralbuck

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #6 Wheels and fenders glued up*
> 
> This is my third time making these spoke wheels.
> I feel like I did a better job last time being bigger they show off the spokes better, but hey got to keep trying new things.
> 
> I already had some tire blanks made up, when the tools set up it pays to make more.
> So drilled out the centers and made some walnut rim blanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See the rims with the centers cut out where the spokes will go I did this on the drill press with my Harbor Freight hole saw set.
> I figured out what I needed between the rim and axle post and just kept using the different sized hole saw bits till I had it all cut out, then just a little scraping with a wood chisel to smooth out the bottom and it's made. No lathe work for these wheels. lol
> 
> One more tip don't drill all the way through leave a 1/8" to hold it all together till the spokes are drilled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Been needing a way to speed up the marking of the blanks so built a jig that holds the blank to the pattern so every thing goes much faster and gets it right.
> I used to glue the pattern on the wood but many times the pattern would not be centered so this jig works much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fast foreword and the spokes are drilled and glued in, you need to check out my last spoke how to to see how it's done.
> The lighter wheels are the extras from my last spoke build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took the rims to the drum sander and sanded to fit the tires.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I could mount them and see how the fenders needed to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The project page is here.


Gorgeous work!


----------



## FrenchGoattoys

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #6 Wheels and fenders glued up*
> 
> This is my third time making these spoke wheels.
> I feel like I did a better job last time being bigger they show off the spokes better, but hey got to keep trying new things.
> 
> I already had some tire blanks made up, when the tools set up it pays to make more.
> So drilled out the centers and made some walnut rim blanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See the rims with the centers cut out where the spokes will go I did this on the drill press with my Harbor Freight hole saw set.
> I figured out what I needed between the rim and axle post and just kept using the different sized hole saw bits till I had it all cut out, then just a little scraping with a wood chisel to smooth out the bottom and it's made. No lathe work for these wheels. lol
> 
> One more tip don't drill all the way through leave a 1/8" to hold it all together till the spokes are drilled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Been needing a way to speed up the marking of the blanks so built a jig that holds the blank to the pattern so every thing goes much faster and gets it right.
> I used to glue the pattern on the wood but many times the pattern would not be centered so this jig works much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fast foreword and the spokes are drilled and glued in, you need to check out my last spoke how to to see how it's done.
> The lighter wheels are the extras from my last spoke build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took the rims to the drum sander and sanded to fit the tires.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I could mount them and see how the fenders needed to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The project page is here.


Looks great. Alas, if I was as talented. ;0).


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #6 Wheels and fenders glued up*
> 
> This is my third time making these spoke wheels.
> I feel like I did a better job last time being bigger they show off the spokes better, but hey got to keep trying new things.
> 
> I already had some tire blanks made up, when the tools set up it pays to make more.
> So drilled out the centers and made some walnut rim blanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See the rims with the centers cut out where the spokes will go I did this on the drill press with my Harbor Freight hole saw set.
> I figured out what I needed between the rim and axle post and just kept using the different sized hole saw bits till I had it all cut out, then just a little scraping with a wood chisel to smooth out the bottom and it's made. No lathe work for these wheels. lol
> 
> One more tip don't drill all the way through leave a 1/8" to hold it all together till the spokes are drilled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Been needing a way to speed up the marking of the blanks so built a jig that holds the blank to the pattern so every thing goes much faster and gets it right.
> I used to glue the pattern on the wood but many times the pattern would not be centered so this jig works much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fast foreword and the spokes are drilled and glued in, you need to check out my last spoke how to to see how it's done.
> The lighter wheels are the extras from my last spoke build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took the rims to the drum sander and sanded to fit the tires.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I could mount them and see how the fenders needed to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The project page is here.


They look so good Bruce. 
You've certainly done one first class job on the wheels.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #6 Wheels and fenders glued up*
> 
> This is my third time making these spoke wheels.
> I feel like I did a better job last time being bigger they show off the spokes better, but hey got to keep trying new things.
> 
> I already had some tire blanks made up, when the tools set up it pays to make more.
> So drilled out the centers and made some walnut rim blanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See the rims with the centers cut out where the spokes will go I did this on the drill press with my Harbor Freight hole saw set.
> I figured out what I needed between the rim and axle post and just kept using the different sized hole saw bits till I had it all cut out, then just a little scraping with a wood chisel to smooth out the bottom and it's made. No lathe work for these wheels. lol
> 
> One more tip don't drill all the way through leave a 1/8" to hold it all together till the spokes are drilled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Been needing a way to speed up the marking of the blanks so built a jig that holds the blank to the pattern so every thing goes much faster and gets it right.
> I used to glue the pattern on the wood but many times the pattern would not be centered so this jig works much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fast foreword and the spokes are drilled and glued in, you need to check out my last spoke how to to see how it's done.
> The lighter wheels are the extras from my last spoke build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took the rims to the drum sander and sanded to fit the tires.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I could mount them and see how the fenders needed to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The project page is here.


THAT WHEELS!!


----------



## doubleDD

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #6 Wheels and fenders glued up*
> 
> This is my third time making these spoke wheels.
> I feel like I did a better job last time being bigger they show off the spokes better, but hey got to keep trying new things.
> 
> I already had some tire blanks made up, when the tools set up it pays to make more.
> So drilled out the centers and made some walnut rim blanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See the rims with the centers cut out where the spokes will go I did this on the drill press with my Harbor Freight hole saw set.
> I figured out what I needed between the rim and axle post and just kept using the different sized hole saw bits till I had it all cut out, then just a little scraping with a wood chisel to smooth out the bottom and it's made. No lathe work for these wheels. lol
> 
> One more tip don't drill all the way through leave a 1/8" to hold it all together till the spokes are drilled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Been needing a way to speed up the marking of the blanks so built a jig that holds the blank to the pattern so every thing goes much faster and gets it right.
> I used to glue the pattern on the wood but many times the pattern would not be centered so this jig works much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fast foreword and the spokes are drilled and glued in, you need to check out my last spoke how to to see how it's done.
> The lighter wheels are the extras from my last spoke build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took the rims to the drum sander and sanded to fit the tires.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I could mount them and see how the fenders needed to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The project page is here.


These wheels are better than the ones on my car. Excellent work.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *1932 Buick Sedan #6 Wheels and fenders glued up*
> 
> This is my third time making these spoke wheels.
> I feel like I did a better job last time being bigger they show off the spokes better, but hey got to keep trying new things.
> 
> I already had some tire blanks made up, when the tools set up it pays to make more.
> So drilled out the centers and made some walnut rim blanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See the rims with the centers cut out where the spokes will go I did this on the drill press with my Harbor Freight hole saw set.
> I figured out what I needed between the rim and axle post and just kept using the different sized hole saw bits till I had it all cut out, then just a little scraping with a wood chisel to smooth out the bottom and it's made. No lathe work for these wheels. lol
> 
> One more tip don't drill all the way through leave a 1/8" to hold it all together till the spokes are drilled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Been needing a way to speed up the marking of the blanks so built a jig that holds the blank to the pattern so every thing goes much faster and gets it right.
> I used to glue the pattern on the wood but many times the pattern would not be centered so this jig works much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fast foreword and the spokes are drilled and glued in, you need to check out my last spoke how to to see how it's done.
> The lighter wheels are the extras from my last spoke build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took the rims to the drum sander and sanded to fit the tires.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Then I could mount them and see how the fenders needed to fit.
> 
> 
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> 
> The project page is here.


Here's the plan I use to build the spoke wheels.


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## htl

*1932 Tow Truck #1*

Needed to get out of the house so grabbed my folders of plans and hit the shop.
I usually pick a plan and print out the parts I need.
Not up to any thing complicated so found the old tanker truck plans that I have built before.
One of Toys and Joys older very simple plans.
Here's what I made with the plans last time.









As much as I like making cattle cars for my trains may try adding a cattle mover rear end.
/>Here's what I have in mind.









Here's what I got done today.

Frame [white oak] and bonnet [walnut].
You ask why the oak frame well trying to save a little of my walnut stash.









cabin parts.









Radiators are all ways interesting to me.
Tried making the main radiator frame walnut but the inside of the grill will be oak with a walnut back.


















I put a small bearing on my flush cut router bit to make a groove for the radiator core.


















As I said have no idea where I'm going with this but will have fun no matter what it turns out to be.


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *1932 Tow Truck #1*
> 
> Needed to get out of the house so grabbed my folders of plans and hit the shop.
> I usually pick a plan and print out the parts I need.
> Not up to any thing complicated so found the old tanker truck plans that I have built before.
> One of Toys and Joys older very simple plans.
> Here's what I made with the plans last time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As much as I like making cattle cars for my trains may try adding a cattle mover rear end.
> />Here's what I have in mind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what I got done today.
> 
> Frame [white oak] and bonnet [walnut].
> You ask why the oak frame well trying to save a little of my walnut stash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cabin parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Radiators are all ways interesting to me.
> Tried making the main radiator frame walnut but the inside of the grill will be oak with a walnut back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a small bearing on my flush cut router bit to make a groove for the radiator core.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I said have no idea where I'm going with this but will have fun no matter what it turns out to be.


That is the best way to build for yourself!

Plans are SOMEONE else's idea of what you want to make!


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## GeocaverDan

htl said:


> *1932 Tow Truck #1*
> 
> Needed to get out of the house so grabbed my folders of plans and hit the shop.
> I usually pick a plan and print out the parts I need.
> Not up to any thing complicated so found the old tanker truck plans that I have built before.
> One of Toys and Joys older very simple plans.
> Here's what I made with the plans last time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As much as I like making cattle cars for my trains may try adding a cattle mover rear end.
> />Here's what I have in mind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what I got done today.
> 
> Frame [white oak] and bonnet [walnut].
> You ask why the oak frame well trying to save a little of my walnut stash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cabin parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Radiators are all ways interesting to me.
> Tried making the main radiator frame walnut but the inside of the grill will be oak with a walnut back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a small bearing on my flush cut router bit to make a groove for the radiator core.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I said have no idea where I'm going with this but will have fun no matter what it turns out to be.





> That is the best way to build for yourself!
> 
> Plans are SOMEONE else s idea of what you want to make!
> 
> - ralbuck


Exactly! Well said. And nice work htl


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *1932 Tow Truck #1*
> 
> Needed to get out of the house so grabbed my folders of plans and hit the shop.
> I usually pick a plan and print out the parts I need.
> Not up to any thing complicated so found the old tanker truck plans that I have built before.
> One of Toys and Joys older very simple plans.
> Here's what I made with the plans last time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As much as I like making cattle cars for my trains may try adding a cattle mover rear end.
> />Here's what I have in mind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what I got done today.
> 
> Frame [white oak] and bonnet [walnut].
> You ask why the oak frame well trying to save a little of my walnut stash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cabin parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Radiators are all ways interesting to me.
> Tried making the main radiator frame walnut but the inside of the grill will be oak with a walnut back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a small bearing on my flush cut router bit to make a groove for the radiator core.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I said have no idea where I'm going with this but will have fun no matter what it turns out to be.


"As I said have no idea where I'm going with this but will have fun no matter what it turns out to be." 
Some builds come out better when we experiment as we go along, go for it and have fun.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *1932 Tow Truck #1*
> 
> Needed to get out of the house so grabbed my folders of plans and hit the shop.
> I usually pick a plan and print out the parts I need.
> Not up to any thing complicated so found the old tanker truck plans that I have built before.
> One of Toys and Joys older very simple plans.
> Here's what I made with the plans last time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As much as I like making cattle cars for my trains may try adding a cattle mover rear end.
> />Here's what I have in mind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what I got done today.
> 
> Frame [white oak] and bonnet [walnut].
> You ask why the oak frame well trying to save a little of my walnut stash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cabin parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Radiators are all ways interesting to me.
> Tried making the main radiator frame walnut but the inside of the grill will be oak with a walnut back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a small bearing on my flush cut router bit to make a groove for the radiator core.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I said have no idea where I'm going with this but will have fun no matter what it turns out to be.


Personally I like plans to have a starting point, BUT from then it's mine.
Way to Bruce!!


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## htl

htl said:


> *1932 Tow Truck #1*
> 
> Needed to get out of the house so grabbed my folders of plans and hit the shop.
> I usually pick a plan and print out the parts I need.
> Not up to any thing complicated so found the old tanker truck plans that I have built before.
> One of Toys and Joys older very simple plans.
> Here's what I made with the plans last time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As much as I like making cattle cars for my trains may try adding a cattle mover rear end.
> />Here's what I have in mind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what I got done today.
> 
> Frame [white oak] and bonnet [walnut].
> You ask why the oak frame well trying to save a little of my walnut stash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cabin parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Radiators are all ways interesting to me.
> Tried making the main radiator frame walnut but the inside of the grill will be oak with a walnut back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a small bearing on my flush cut router bit to make a groove for the radiator core.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I said have no idea where I'm going with this but will have fun no matter what it turns out to be.


I can work ether way.
But now a days some simple plans help get the sizes and shapes right then look out no telling. LOL
I can't draw to save my life so just a little help goes a long way.


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## stefang

htl said:


> *1932 Tow Truck #1*
> 
> Needed to get out of the house so grabbed my folders of plans and hit the shop.
> I usually pick a plan and print out the parts I need.
> Not up to any thing complicated so found the old tanker truck plans that I have built before.
> One of Toys and Joys older very simple plans.
> Here's what I made with the plans last time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As much as I like making cattle cars for my trains may try adding a cattle mover rear end.
> />Here's what I have in mind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what I got done today.
> 
> Frame [white oak] and bonnet [walnut].
> You ask why the oak frame well trying to save a little of my walnut stash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cabin parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Radiators are all ways interesting to me.
> Tried making the main radiator frame walnut but the inside of the grill will be oak with a walnut back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a small bearing on my flush cut router bit to make a groove for the radiator core.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I said have no idea where I'm going with this but will have fun no matter what it turns out to be.


Most of us are, after all, craftsmen and not artists but a little tweaking can go a long way. Looking forward to seeing what you do with this design this time.


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## htl

*1932 Tow Truck #2*

Still haven't made up my mind if it's pick up or panel truck or farm all?































































I'm just about to the point I better figure out what I'm making? :-[


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## crowie

htl said:


> *1932 Tow Truck #2*
> 
> Still haven't made up my mind if it's pick up or panel truck or farm all?
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> I'm just about to the point I better figure out what I'm making? :-[


Love the seat pattern Bruce and wow, the ute [aka pickup] is looking good!!


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *1932 Tow Truck #2*
> 
> Still haven't made up my mind if it's pick up or panel truck or farm all?
> 
> 
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> 
> I'm just about to the point I better figure out what I'm making? :-[


Looking Good.


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## FrenchGoattoys

htl said:


> *1932 Tow Truck #2*
> 
> Still haven't made up my mind if it's pick up or panel truck or farm all?
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> I'm just about to the point I better figure out what I'm making? :-[


This has flatbed with kegs written all over it.


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *1932 Tow Truck #2*
> 
> Still haven't made up my mind if it's pick up or panel truck or farm all?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> I'm just about to the point I better figure out what I'm making? :-[


You are making a truck.


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## htl

htl said:


> *1932 Tow Truck #2*
> 
> Still haven't made up my mind if it's pick up or panel truck or farm all?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm just about to the point I better figure out what I'm making? :-[


As Crowie said it's looking more and more like a pick up, so yes a truck. LOL


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *1932 Tow Truck #2*
> 
> Still haven't made up my mind if it's pick up or panel truck or farm all?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm just about to the point I better figure out what I'm making? :-[


It is looking fine so far.

I have this thing for tow trucks; you already have a fanatic base for a vintage type one.

Many different ways to make the boom also. Regardless of what you make many of us are looking forward to seeing it!


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## htl

htl said:


> *1932 Tow Truck #2*
> 
> Still haven't made up my mind if it's pick up or panel truck or farm all?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm just about to the point I better figure out what I'm making? :-[


ralbuck I'm still up in the air as to what it is and the *tow truck is right up there* . LOL


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## stefang

htl said:


> *1932 Tow Truck #2*
> 
> Still haven't made up my mind if it's pick up or panel truck or farm all?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm just about to the point I better figure out what I'm making? :-[


Looks very nice so far. I'm for a tow truck!


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## htl

*1932 Tow Truck #3*

The more I built and looked around the tow truck just kept coming up, so it's going to be a tow truck.

*How about a hot rod tow truck?*
It has a lowered frame, big tires and the roof was lowered.

Haven't started the winch yet but the truck itself is pretty close.

Thought it might need a tool box, this was before the tow truck came to be.









Then on with the fenders.


























Played with a bumper.









A tow truck needs a ton a storage, so more tool boxes.


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *1932 Tow Truck #3*
> 
> The more I built and looked around the tow truck just kept coming up, so it's going to be a tow truck.
> 
> *How about a hot rod tow truck?*
> It has a lowered frame, big tires and the roof was lowered.
> 
> Haven't started the winch yet but the truck itself is pretty close.
> 
> Thought it might need a tool box, this was before the tow truck came to be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on with the fenders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Played with a bumper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A tow truck needs a ton a storage, so more tool boxes.


Looking good.

Now the winch; A tripod style would be vintage appropriate, I think. Two supports toward the front with the winch between them and the middle one in the back at a very different angle to be the cable carrier.

If possible turn the reel in one piece and then mount through the support arms before they get attached to the bed.
If this is going to be played with; I recommend a little old candle wax rubbed into the winch axle, where it goes through the supports. White wax if possible-it disappears without leaving a color trail.

I am looking forward to seeing the unit working!


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## htl

htl said:


> *1932 Tow Truck #3*
> 
> The more I built and looked around the tow truck just kept coming up, so it's going to be a tow truck.
> 
> *How about a hot rod tow truck?*
> It has a lowered frame, big tires and the roof was lowered.
> 
> Haven't started the winch yet but the truck itself is pretty close.
> 
> Thought it might need a tool box, this was before the tow truck came to be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on with the fenders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Played with a bumper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A tow truck needs a ton a storage, so more tool boxes.


Sounds like you've already built one or two of these Ralbuck

*Turn the reel in one piece *sounds like lathe work and a great idea but I can build one faster with parts quicker than I can get the Shop Smith set up and find all my cutting tools.
I'm beginning to think I have a lathe using problem, what would you call me a LathePHOBIAC?


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## stefang

htl said:


> *1932 Tow Truck #3*
> 
> The more I built and looked around the tow truck just kept coming up, so it's going to be a tow truck.
> 
> *How about a hot rod tow truck?*
> It has a lowered frame, big tires and the roof was lowered.
> 
> Haven't started the winch yet but the truck itself is pretty close.
> 
> Thought it might need a tool box, this was before the tow truck came to be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on with the fenders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Played with a bumper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A tow truck needs a ton a storage, so more tool boxes.


I am liking this build a lot. Love the tool boxes and the hot rod idea. The tires are look amazing too.


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## farmergreg

htl said:


> *1932 Tow Truck #3*
> 
> The more I built and looked around the tow truck just kept coming up, so it's going to be a tow truck.
> 
> *How about a hot rod tow truck?*
> It has a lowered frame, big tires and the roof was lowered.
> 
> Haven't started the winch yet but the truck itself is pretty close.
> 
> Thought it might need a tool box, this was before the tow truck came to be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on with the fenders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Played with a bumper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A tow truck needs a ton a storage, so more tool boxes.


Great Work


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *1932 Tow Truck #3*
> 
> The more I built and looked around the tow truck just kept coming up, so it's going to be a tow truck.
> 
> *How about a hot rod tow truck?*
> It has a lowered frame, big tires and the roof was lowered.
> 
> Haven't started the winch yet but the truck itself is pretty close.
> 
> Thought it might need a tool box, this was before the tow truck came to be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on with the fenders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Played with a bumper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A tow truck needs a ton a storage, so more tool boxes.


Hot Rod Tow Truck sounds great Bruce… But more wheels will be needed to make to look!!


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## htl

htl said:


> *1932 Tow Truck #3*
> 
> The more I built and looked around the tow truck just kept coming up, so it's going to be a tow truck.
> 
> *How about a hot rod tow truck?*
> It has a lowered frame, big tires and the roof was lowered.
> 
> Haven't started the winch yet but the truck itself is pretty close.
> 
> Thought it might need a tool box, this was before the tow truck came to be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on with the fenders.
> 
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> Played with a bumper.
> 
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> 
> A tow truck needs a ton a storage, so more tool boxes.


I have a set a tandun truck tires I will be trying but have to get out of the hopitl first.
This tablet doesn't like spel checkers.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *1932 Tow Truck #3*
> 
> The more I built and looked around the tow truck just kept coming up, so it's going to be a tow truck.
> 
> *How about a hot rod tow truck?*
> It has a lowered frame, big tires and the roof was lowered.
> 
> Haven't started the winch yet but the truck itself is pretty close.
> 
> Thought it might need a tool box, this was before the tow truck came to be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on with the fenders.
> 
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> 
> Played with a bumper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A tow truck needs a ton a storage, so more tool boxes.





> I have a set a tandun truck tires I will be trying but have to get out of the hopitl first.
> This tablet doesn t like spel checkers.
> 
> - htl


YES Please Bruce, Get well quickly sir, and back home into the shed for a full recovery….


----------



## htl

*1932 Tow Truck #4*

Finally got a chance and gumption to get in the shop and play with the truck.
Figured out a simple winch set up, just wasn't up to building gears but you still get the idea.
This is a hand cranked winch and can be cranked from 3 different points for different gear ratios.













































The winch will be farther back but just have it in there for now.


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *1932 Tow Truck #4*
> 
> Finally got a chance and gumption to get in the shop and play with the truck.
> Figured out a simple winch set up, just wasn't up to building gears but you still get the idea.
> This is a hand cranked winch and can be cranked from 3 different points for different gear ratios.
> 
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> The winch will be farther back but just have it in there for now.


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## sras

htl said:


> *1932 Tow Truck #4*
> 
> Finally got a chance and gumption to get in the shop and play with the truck.
> Figured out a simple winch set up, just wasn't up to building gears but you still get the idea.
> This is a hand cranked winch and can be cranked from 3 different points for different gear ratios.
> 
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> 
> 
> The winch will be farther back but just have it in there for now.


That is looking good!


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## htl

htl said:


> *1932 Tow Truck #4*
> 
> Finally got a chance and gumption to get in the shop and play with the truck.
> Figured out a simple winch set up, just wasn't up to building gears but you still get the idea.
> This is a hand cranked winch and can be cranked from 3 different points for different gear ratios.
> 
> 
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> 
> The winch will be farther back but just have it in there for now.


Just got out of a two week stay in the hospital a week ago and man it felt so good to get in the shop and work on my truck.
Thanks for the comments much appreciated.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *1932 Tow Truck #4*
> 
> Finally got a chance and gumption to get in the shop and play with the truck.
> Figured out a simple winch set up, just wasn't up to building gears but you still get the idea.
> This is a hand cranked winch and can be cranked from 3 different points for different gear ratios.
> 
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> 
> The winch will be farther back but just have it in there for now.


Great news to hear you're up and about Bruce; the shed is one of the best places to recover…

That crane you've challenged yourself with is surely a beauty.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *1932 Tow Truck #4*
> 
> Finally got a chance and gumption to get in the shop and play with the truck.
> Figured out a simple winch set up, just wasn't up to building gears but you still get the idea.
> This is a hand cranked winch and can be cranked from 3 different points for different gear ratios.
> 
> 
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> 
> The winch will be farther back but just have it in there for now.


2 week hospital stay suks for sure but you had time to sketch all kinds of drawings i bet loving this tow truck loving the winch also cant hardly wait to see it with finish on it :<))))))))))))))))


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *1932 Tow Truck #4*
> 
> Finally got a chance and gumption to get in the shop and play with the truck.
> Figured out a simple winch set up, just wasn't up to building gears but you still get the idea.
> This is a hand cranked winch and can be cranked from 3 different points for different gear ratios.
> 
> 
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> 
> The winch will be farther back but just have it in there for now.


LOOKING

GREAT! 
Related to thie one that is my avatar??


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## woodshaver

htl said:


> *1932 Tow Truck #4*
> 
> Finally got a chance and gumption to get in the shop and play with the truck.
> Figured out a simple winch set up, just wasn't up to building gears but you still get the idea.
> This is a hand cranked winch and can be cranked from 3 different points for different gear ratios.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> The winch will be farther back but just have it in there for now.


htl your work makes me drool. Happy to hear your ok and back in the shop!


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *1932 Tow Truck #4*
> 
> Finally got a chance and gumption to get in the shop and play with the truck.
> Figured out a simple winch set up, just wasn't up to building gears but you still get the idea.
> This is a hand cranked winch and can be cranked from 3 different points for different gear ratios.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> The winch will be farther back but just have it in there for now.


Might Fine, looking good.


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## Budster

htl said:


> *1932 Tow Truck #4*
> 
> Finally got a chance and gumption to get in the shop and play with the truck.
> Figured out a simple winch set up, just wasn't up to building gears but you still get the idea.
> This is a hand cranked winch and can be cranked from 3 different points for different gear ratios.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> The winch will be farther back but just have it in there for now.


As always, Top of the line. I will definitely put that one on my to-do list. Very well done and I hope you are feeling better.


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## GeocaverDan

htl said:


> *1932 Tow Truck #4*
> 
> Finally got a chance and gumption to get in the shop and play with the truck.
> Figured out a simple winch set up, just wasn't up to building gears but you still get the idea.
> This is a hand cranked winch and can be cranked from 3 different points for different gear ratios.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> The winch will be farther back but just have it in there for now.


Beautiful work!!!


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## doubleDD

htl said:


> *1932 Tow Truck #4*
> 
> Finally got a chance and gumption to get in the shop and play with the truck.
> Figured out a simple winch set up, just wasn't up to building gears but you still get the idea.
> This is a hand cranked winch and can be cranked from 3 different points for different gear ratios.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> The winch will be farther back but just have it in there for now.


Good to hear you're out of the hospital. Stay away from those gears or the pressure may put you back in. 
Looking good.


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## stefang

htl said:


> *1932 Tow Truck #4*
> 
> Finally got a chance and gumption to get in the shop and play with the truck.
> Figured out a simple winch set up, just wasn't up to building gears but you still get the idea.
> This is a hand cranked winch and can be cranked from 3 different points for different gear ratios.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> The winch will be farther back but just have it in there for now.


Wonderfully done.


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## htl

*Mining Truck 1&2*

Playing with another Mining Truck as I already had some wheels ready from the last time I built one.
This time will use walnut and maple as this is what's scraps are in the shop.
The wheels are 3" so are 1 1/4" smaller than the plans call for, because of this I shrunk the plans down to work.
I just don't need a model with 4 1/4" wheels way to big, I built the hummer and man is it a big monster of a model.
Here's what the wheels would have looked like.










Takes quite a bit a time to get enough wide wood made up for this truck.



























Parts just set in place so you get an idea of what's going on.


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Mining Truck 1&2*
> 
> Playing with another Mining Truck as I already had some wheels ready from the last time I built one.
> This time will use walnut and maple as this is what's scraps are in the shop.
> The wheels are 3" so are 1 1/4" smaller than the plans call for, because of this I shrunk the plans down to work.
> I just don't need a model with 4 1/4" wheels way to big, I built the hummer and man is it a big monster of a model.
> Here's what the wheels would have looked like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Takes quite a bit a time to get enough wide wood made up for this truck.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Parts just set in place so you get an idea of what's going on.


Looking good. What will be a Caterpillar 775D or maybe a Komatsu WA600 ?


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## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Mining Truck 1&2*
> 
> Playing with another Mining Truck as I already had some wheels ready from the last time I built one.
> This time will use walnut and maple as this is what's scraps are in the shop.
> The wheels are 3" so are 1 1/4" smaller than the plans call for, because of this I shrunk the plans down to work.
> I just don't need a model with 4 1/4" wheels way to big, I built the hummer and man is it a big monster of a model.
> Here's what the wheels would have looked like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Takes quite a bit a time to get enough wide wood made up for this truck.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts just set in place so you get an idea of what's going on.


Looking great. The best part of making toys is getting to play with them.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Mining Truck 1&2*
> 
> Playing with another Mining Truck as I already had some wheels ready from the last time I built one.
> This time will use walnut and maple as this is what's scraps are in the shop.
> The wheels are 3" so are 1 1/4" smaller than the plans call for, because of this I shrunk the plans down to work.
> I just don't need a model with 4 1/4" wheels way to big, I built the hummer and man is it a big monster of a model.
> Here's what the wheels would have looked like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Takes quite a bit a time to get enough wide wood made up for this truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts just set in place so you get an idea of what's going on.


You must certainly be better Bruce, up and stuck into another model build, good stuff sir.

PS - NO SUCH THING AS SCRAPS IN THE SHED, just offcuts awaiting a purpose!!


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## htl

htl said:


> *Mining Truck 1&2*
> 
> Playing with another Mining Truck as I already had some wheels ready from the last time I built one.
> This time will use walnut and maple as this is what's scraps are in the shop.
> The wheels are 3" so are 1 1/4" smaller than the plans call for, because of this I shrunk the plans down to work.
> I just don't need a model with 4 1/4" wheels way to big, I built the hummer and man is it a big monster of a model.
> Here's what the wheels would have looked like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Takes quite a bit a time to get enough wide wood made up for this truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts just set in place so you get an idea of what's going on.


Crowie dragging myself out to the shop, and an out of breath when I get the shop unlocked and the lights on but once I get sat down I can get in 3 or 4 hours, the best part of my day and have some fun building.
I knew my health was going down hill and I think this has been one of the reasons I have been in a building frenzy, just trying to build all I can before my body puts a stop to it.
I know others are in the same boat just doing what they can to have fun in the shop and brighten up their day and do the things they love.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Mining Truck 1&2*
> 
> Playing with another Mining Truck as I already had some wheels ready from the last time I built one.
> This time will use walnut and maple as this is what's scraps are in the shop.
> The wheels are 3" so are 1 1/4" smaller than the plans call for, because of this I shrunk the plans down to work.
> I just don't need a model with 4 1/4" wheels way to big, I built the hummer and man is it a big monster of a model.
> Here's what the wheels would have looked like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Takes quite a bit a time to get enough wide wood made up for this truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts just set in place so you get an idea of what's going on.


so your shrinking the whole model or just the tires ? :<))))


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Mining Truck 1&2*
> 
> Playing with another Mining Truck as I already had some wheels ready from the last time I built one.
> This time will use walnut and maple as this is what's scraps are in the shop.
> The wheels are 3" so are 1 1/4" smaller than the plans call for, because of this I shrunk the plans down to work.
> I just don't need a model with 4 1/4" wheels way to big, I built the hummer and man is it a big monster of a model.
> Here's what the wheels would have looked like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Takes quite a bit a time to get enough wide wood made up for this truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts just set in place so you get an idea of what's going on.


The whole model is shrunk down to fit the 3" tires, just like you see in the first picture.
It brings it down where it fits in with my other models.
The T&J full size plans would make a great small toy box, I would think.


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## stefang

htl said:


> *Mining Truck 1&2*
> 
> Playing with another Mining Truck as I already had some wheels ready from the last time I built one.
> This time will use walnut and maple as this is what's scraps are in the shop.
> The wheels are 3" so are 1 1/4" smaller than the plans call for, because of this I shrunk the plans down to work.
> I just don't need a model with 4 1/4" wheels way to big, I built the hummer and man is it a big monster of a model.
> Here's what the wheels would have looked like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Takes quite a bit a time to get enough wide wood made up for this truck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts just set in place so you get an idea of what's going on.


Good start.


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## htl

*Mining Truck 3&4*

Just about there, still need to build the hydraulics.


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## Budster

htl said:


> *Mining Truck 3&4*
> 
> Just about there, still need to build the hydraulics.


Looking real good.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Mining Truck 3&4*
> 
> Just about there, still need to build the hydraulics.


simply love the tires :<)))


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Mining Truck 3&4*
> 
> Just about there, still need to build the hydraulics.


Super job.


----------



## doubleDD

htl said:


> *Mining Truck 3&4*
> 
> Just about there, still need to build the hydraulics.


You have a knack for making the details look so real. Looks great.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Mining Truck 3&4*
> 
> Just about there, still need to build the hydraulics.


Beaut progress Bruce, you're doing a first class job indeed sir!!


----------



## ralbuck

htl said:


> *Mining Truck 3&4*
> 
> Just about there, still need to build the hydraulics.


Looking fantastic.

I hav eben up in the real ones too. Great looking model.


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## hookfoot

htl said:


> *Mining Truck 3&4*
> 
> Just about there, still need to build the hydraulics.


Looking great.


----------



## stefang

htl said:


> *Mining Truck 3&4*
> 
> Just about there, still need to build the hydraulics.


Got to love this one!


----------



## htl

*Reading Passenger Car Gatto Plan*

Got started on the Gatto passenger car that should fill out that train set.
I built the Reading train a while back and then bought the Gatto plan set that goes along with it for the cars.
This is Plan#29
I almost didn't build it because it's so long and with the other cars and Train will really be a long one for sure.
As you can see in the picture I clamped down a board to the edge of the table so as I glued up the sides I could add some pressure as the super glue kicked in.
Not shown but I held a square to it as I held it to keep every thing squared up.









There are 26 chairs to make yuck!!! LOL









I put Danish oil on the seats as once the roof is on it ain't going to get done.










Then on with the roof.



















I cut the last board at an angle for the roof and glues it on but just needed a little more work, so took it to the table saw and did a job on my nerves cutting it, but that got it close enough to sand it to right.
So So glad the box was square or this could have got tricky!!!



























This is going to be one long car!!!
This was done over many short days.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Reading Passenger Car Gatto Plan*
> 
> Got started on the Gatto passenger car that should fill out that train set.
> I built the Reading train a while back and then bought the Gatto plan set that goes along with it for the cars.
> This is Plan#29
> I almost didn't build it because it's so long and with the other cars and Train will really be a long one for sure.
> As you can see in the picture I clamped down a board to the edge of the table so as I glued up the sides I could add some pressure as the super glue kicked in.
> Not shown but I held a square to it as I held it to keep every thing squared up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are 26 chairs to make yuck!!! LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put Danish oil on the seats as once the roof is on it ain't going to get done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on with the roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the last board at an angle for the roof and glues it on but just needed a little more work, so took it to the table saw and did a job on my nerves cutting it, but that got it close enough to sand it to right.
> So So glad the box was square or this could have got tricky!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> This is going to be one long car!!!
> This was done over many short days.


A new one to follow. Nice! And looking good.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Reading Passenger Car Gatto Plan*
> 
> Got started on the Gatto passenger car that should fill out that train set.
> I built the Reading train a while back and then bought the Gatto plan set that goes along with it for the cars.
> This is Plan#29
> I almost didn't build it because it's so long and with the other cars and Train will really be a long one for sure.
> As you can see in the picture I clamped down a board to the edge of the table so as I glued up the sides I could add some pressure as the super glue kicked in.
> Not shown but I held a square to it as I held it to keep every thing squared up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are 26 chairs to make yuck!!! LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put Danish oil on the seats as once the roof is on it ain't going to get done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on with the roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the last board at an angle for the roof and glues it on but just needed a little more work, so took it to the table saw and did a job on my nerves cutting it, but that got it close enough to sand it to right.
> So So glad the box was square or this could have got tricky!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is going to be one long car!!!
> This was done over many short days.


I hope you've saved me a seat on this carriage Bruce… looking very good already


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Reading Passenger Car Gatto Plan*
> 
> Got started on the Gatto passenger car that should fill out that train set.
> I built the Reading train a while back and then bought the Gatto plan set that goes along with it for the cars.
> This is Plan#29
> I almost didn't build it because it's so long and with the other cars and Train will really be a long one for sure.
> As you can see in the picture I clamped down a board to the edge of the table so as I glued up the sides I could add some pressure as the super glue kicked in.
> Not shown but I held a square to it as I held it to keep every thing squared up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are 26 chairs to make yuck!!! LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put Danish oil on the seats as once the roof is on it ain't going to get done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on with the roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the last board at an angle for the roof and glues it on but just needed a little more work, so took it to the table saw and did a job on my nerves cutting it, but that got it close enough to sand it to right.
> So So glad the box was square or this could have got tricky!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is going to be one long car!!!
> This was done over many short days.


Crowie there's 52 seats so no problem other than I glued the doors shut. LOL


----------



## Redoak49

htl said:


> *Reading Passenger Car Gatto Plan*
> 
> Got started on the Gatto passenger car that should fill out that train set.
> I built the Reading train a while back and then bought the Gatto plan set that goes along with it for the cars.
> This is Plan#29
> I almost didn't build it because it's so long and with the other cars and Train will really be a long one for sure.
> As you can see in the picture I clamped down a board to the edge of the table so as I glued up the sides I could add some pressure as the super glue kicked in.
> Not shown but I held a square to it as I held it to keep every thing squared up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are 26 chairs to make yuck!!! LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put Danish oil on the seats as once the roof is on it ain't going to get done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on with the roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the last board at an angle for the roof and glues it on but just needed a little more work, so took it to the table saw and did a job on my nerves cutting it, but that got it close enough to sand it to right.
> So So glad the box was square or this could have got tricky!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is going to be one long car!!!
> This was done over many short days.


Excellent….I like the contrasting wood.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Reading Passenger Car Gatto Plan*
> 
> Got started on the Gatto passenger car that should fill out that train set.
> I built the Reading train a while back and then bought the Gatto plan set that goes along with it for the cars.
> This is Plan#29
> I almost didn't build it because it's so long and with the other cars and Train will really be a long one for sure.
> As you can see in the picture I clamped down a board to the edge of the table so as I glued up the sides I could add some pressure as the super glue kicked in.
> Not shown but I held a square to it as I held it to keep every thing squared up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are 26 chairs to make yuck!!! LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put Danish oil on the seats as once the roof is on it ain't going to get done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on with the roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the last board at an angle for the roof and glues it on but just needed a little more work, so took it to the table saw and did a job on my nerves cutting it, but that got it close enough to sand it to right.
> So So glad the box was square or this could have got tricky!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is going to be one long car!!!
> This was done over many short days.


Redoak I've just about run out a scraps of walnut but my cabinet shop buddy sent word that he's just about ready to build some cherry cabinets so may have some wood just in time. LOL


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Reading Passenger Car Gatto Plan*
> 
> Got started on the Gatto passenger car that should fill out that train set.
> I built the Reading train a while back and then bought the Gatto plan set that goes along with it for the cars.
> This is Plan#29
> I almost didn't build it because it's so long and with the other cars and Train will really be a long one for sure.
> As you can see in the picture I clamped down a board to the edge of the table so as I glued up the sides I could add some pressure as the super glue kicked in.
> Not shown but I held a square to it as I held it to keep every thing squared up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are 26 chairs to make yuck!!! LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put Danish oil on the seats as once the roof is on it ain't going to get done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on with the roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the last board at an angle for the roof and glues it on but just needed a little more work, so took it to the table saw and did a job on my nerves cutting it, but that got it close enough to sand it to right.
> So So glad the box was square or this could have got tricky!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is going to be one long car!!!
> This was done over many short days.


I just took some pictures of my way dirty shop right in the middle of the passenger car build and up dated my shop pictures if any one is interested.
I couldn't figure out how to change out the 6 extra pictures but this way you can see how it used to be.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Reading Passenger Car Gatto Plan*
> 
> Got started on the Gatto passenger car that should fill out that train set.
> I built the Reading train a while back and then bought the Gatto plan set that goes along with it for the cars.
> This is Plan#29
> I almost didn't build it because it's so long and with the other cars and Train will really be a long one for sure.
> As you can see in the picture I clamped down a board to the edge of the table so as I glued up the sides I could add some pressure as the super glue kicked in.
> Not shown but I held a square to it as I held it to keep every thing squared up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are 26 chairs to make yuck!!! LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put Danish oil on the seats as once the roof is on it ain't going to get done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on with the roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the last board at an angle for the roof and glues it on but just needed a little more work, so took it to the table saw and did a job on my nerves cutting it, but that got it close enough to sand it to right.
> So So glad the box was square or this could have got tricky!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is going to be one long car!!!
> This was done over many short days.


i guess i will be building one of these one day after the engine and tender which i started other day looks good #4 :<)))


----------



## Redoak49

htl said:


> *Reading Passenger Car Gatto Plan*
> 
> Got started on the Gatto passenger car that should fill out that train set.
> I built the Reading train a while back and then bought the Gatto plan set that goes along with it for the cars.
> This is Plan#29
> I almost didn't build it because it's so long and with the other cars and Train will really be a long one for sure.
> As you can see in the picture I clamped down a board to the edge of the table so as I glued up the sides I could add some pressure as the super glue kicked in.
> Not shown but I held a square to it as I held it to keep every thing squared up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are 26 chairs to make yuck!!! LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put Danish oil on the seats as once the roof is on it ain't going to get done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on with the roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the last board at an angle for the roof and glues it on but just needed a little more work, so took it to the table saw and did a job on my nerves cutting it, but that got it close enough to sand it to right.
> So So glad the box was square or this could have got tricky!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is going to be one long car!!!
> This was done over many short days.


How many Shopsmiths do you have….looks like two based on shop pictures.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Reading Passenger Car Gatto Plan*
> 
> Got started on the Gatto passenger car that should fill out that train set.
> I built the Reading train a while back and then bought the Gatto plan set that goes along with it for the cars.
> This is Plan#29
> I almost didn't build it because it's so long and with the other cars and Train will really be a long one for sure.
> As you can see in the picture I clamped down a board to the edge of the table so as I glued up the sides I could add some pressure as the super glue kicked in.
> Not shown but I held a square to it as I held it to keep every thing squared up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are 26 chairs to make yuck!!! LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put Danish oil on the seats as once the roof is on it ain't going to get done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on with the roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the last board at an angle for the roof and glues it on but just needed a little more work, so took it to the table saw and did a job on my nerves cutting it, but that got it close enough to sand it to right.
> So So glad the box was square or this could have got tricky!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is going to be one long car!!!
> This was done over many short days.


Yes two, one set up as a drill press wall mount, the other is a full SS.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Reading Passenger Car Gatto Plan*
> 
> Got started on the Gatto passenger car that should fill out that train set.
> I built the Reading train a while back and then bought the Gatto plan set that goes along with it for the cars.
> This is Plan#29
> I almost didn't build it because it's so long and with the other cars and Train will really be a long one for sure.
> As you can see in the picture I clamped down a board to the edge of the table so as I glued up the sides I could add some pressure as the super glue kicked in.
> Not shown but I held a square to it as I held it to keep every thing squared up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are 26 chairs to make yuck!!! LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put Danish oil on the seats as once the roof is on it ain't going to get done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on with the roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the last board at an angle for the roof and glues it on but just needed a little more work, so took it to the table saw and did a job on my nerves cutting it, but that got it close enough to sand it to right.
> So So glad the box was square or this could have got tricky!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is going to be one long car!!!
> This was done over many short days.


My work shop is here.


----------



## FrenchGoattoys

htl said:


> *Reading Passenger Car Gatto Plan*
> 
> Got started on the Gatto passenger car that should fill out that train set.
> I built the Reading train a while back and then bought the Gatto plan set that goes along with it for the cars.
> This is Plan#29
> I almost didn't build it because it's so long and with the other cars and Train will really be a long one for sure.
> As you can see in the picture I clamped down a board to the edge of the table so as I glued up the sides I could add some pressure as the super glue kicked in.
> Not shown but I held a square to it as I held it to keep every thing squared up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are 26 chairs to make yuck!!! LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put Danish oil on the seats as once the roof is on it ain't going to get done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on with the roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the last board at an angle for the roof and glues it on but just needed a little more work, so took it to the table saw and did a job on my nerves cutting it, but that got it close enough to sand it to right.
> So So glad the box was square or this could have got tricky!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is going to be one long car!!!
> This was done over many short days.


It looks really nice. I totally get the length concerns. I originally had a passenger car in mind for my train, as well as a tanker and flat car. But after 3 feet and the fact I was given it to a two/three year old, I abandoned the idea. So kootos to you for seeing it through.


----------



## Jason1974

htl said:


> *Reading Passenger Car Gatto Plan*
> 
> Got started on the Gatto passenger car that should fill out that train set.
> I built the Reading train a while back and then bought the Gatto plan set that goes along with it for the cars.
> This is Plan#29
> I almost didn't build it because it's so long and with the other cars and Train will really be a long one for sure.
> As you can see in the picture I clamped down a board to the edge of the table so as I glued up the sides I could add some pressure as the super glue kicked in.
> Not shown but I held a square to it as I held it to keep every thing squared up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are 26 chairs to make yuck!!! LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put Danish oil on the seats as once the roof is on it ain't going to get done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on with the roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the last board at an angle for the roof and glues it on but just needed a little more work, so took it to the table saw and did a job on my nerves cutting it, but that got it close enough to sand it to right.
> So So glad the box was square or this could have got tricky!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is going to be one long car!!!
> This was done over many short days.


ALL ABOARD!!! hahaha, Bruce that is looking really good my friend. I'm gonna take a seat during this build, as soon as the doors get opened back up. Ha.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Reading Passenger Car Gatto Plan*
> 
> Got started on the Gatto passenger car that should fill out that train set.
> I built the Reading train a while back and then bought the Gatto plan set that goes along with it for the cars.
> This is Plan#29
> I almost didn't build it because it's so long and with the other cars and Train will really be a long one for sure.
> As you can see in the picture I clamped down a board to the edge of the table so as I glued up the sides I could add some pressure as the super glue kicked in.
> Not shown but I held a square to it as I held it to keep every thing squared up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are 26 chairs to make yuck!!! LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put Danish oil on the seats as once the roof is on it ain't going to get done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on with the roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the last board at an angle for the roof and glues it on but just needed a little more work, so took it to the table saw and did a job on my nerves cutting it, but that got it close enough to sand it to right.
> So So glad the box was square or this could have got tricky!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is going to be one long car!!!
> This was done over many short days.


FrenchGoattoys On my Toys and Joys trains [which have more of a toy look] I went ahead and shortened the cars but with the Gatto engine being so long and more of a model I felt it just wouldn't look right made much shorter. 
I need to take some measurements as to how long the whole things going to be.
I already have some train railing made up but don't think it will be enough. :-[


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Reading Passenger Car Gatto Plan*
> 
> Got started on the Gatto passenger car that should fill out that train set.
> I built the Reading train a while back and then bought the Gatto plan set that goes along with it for the cars.
> This is Plan#29
> I almost didn't build it because it's so long and with the other cars and Train will really be a long one for sure.
> As you can see in the picture I clamped down a board to the edge of the table so as I glued up the sides I could add some pressure as the super glue kicked in.
> Not shown but I held a square to it as I held it to keep every thing squared up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are 26 chairs to make yuck!!! LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put Danish oil on the seats as once the roof is on it ain't going to get done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on with the roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the last board at an angle for the roof and glues it on but just needed a little more work, so took it to the table saw and did a job on my nerves cutting it, but that got it close enough to sand it to right.
> So So glad the box was square or this could have got tricky!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is going to be one long car!!!
> This was done over many short days.


with the engine, tender ,hopper, passenger and caboose the whole thing is 80" long thats 7 feet my friend LOL :<)))


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Reading Passenger Car Gatto Plan*
> 
> Got started on the Gatto passenger car that should fill out that train set.
> I built the Reading train a while back and then bought the Gatto plan set that goes along with it for the cars.
> This is Plan#29
> I almost didn't build it because it's so long and with the other cars and Train will really be a long one for sure.
> As you can see in the picture I clamped down a board to the edge of the table so as I glued up the sides I could add some pressure as the super glue kicked in.
> Not shown but I held a square to it as I held it to keep every thing squared up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are 26 chairs to make yuck!!! LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put Danish oil on the seats as once the roof is on it ain't going to get done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on with the roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the last board at an angle for the roof and glues it on but just needed a little more work, so took it to the table saw and did a job on my nerves cutting it, but that got it close enough to sand it to right.
> So So glad the box was square or this could have got tricky!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is going to be one long car!!!
> This was done over many short days.


I better quit building it right now or I'll have to cut a hole in the wall!!! :-[


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Reading Passenger Car Gatto Plan*
> 
> Got started on the Gatto passenger car that should fill out that train set.
> I built the Reading train a while back and then bought the Gatto plan set that goes along with it for the cars.
> This is Plan#29
> I almost didn't build it because it's so long and with the other cars and Train will really be a long one for sure.
> As you can see in the picture I clamped down a board to the edge of the table so as I glued up the sides I could add some pressure as the super glue kicked in.
> Not shown but I held a square to it as I held it to keep every thing squared up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are 26 chairs to make yuck!!! LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put Danish oil on the seats as once the roof is on it ain't going to get done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on with the roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the last board at an angle for the roof and glues it on but just needed a little more work, so took it to the table saw and did a job on my nerves cutting it, but that got it close enough to sand it to right.
> So So glad the box was square or this could have got tricky!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is going to be one long car!!!
> This was done over many short days.





> I better quit building it right now or I ll have to cut a hole in the wall!!! :-[
> 
> - htl


NO NO Never quit building :<))))


----------



## Jason1974

htl said:


> *Reading Passenger Car Gatto Plan*
> 
> Got started on the Gatto passenger car that should fill out that train set.
> I built the Reading train a while back and then bought the Gatto plan set that goes along with it for the cars.
> This is Plan#29
> I almost didn't build it because it's so long and with the other cars and Train will really be a long one for sure.
> As you can see in the picture I clamped down a board to the edge of the table so as I glued up the sides I could add some pressure as the super glue kicked in.
> Not shown but I held a square to it as I held it to keep every thing squared up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are 26 chairs to make yuck!!! LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put Danish oil on the seats as once the roof is on it ain't going to get done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on with the roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the last board at an angle for the roof and glues it on but just needed a little more work, so took it to the table saw and did a job on my nerves cutting it, but that got it close enough to sand it to right.
> So So glad the box was square or this could have got tricky!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is going to be one long car!!!
> This was done over many short days.


Quit is not in a woodworkers vocabulary.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Reading Passenger Car Gatto Plan*
> 
> Got started on the Gatto passenger car that should fill out that train set.
> I built the Reading train a while back and then bought the Gatto plan set that goes along with it for the cars.
> This is Plan#29
> I almost didn't build it because it's so long and with the other cars and Train will really be a long one for sure.
> As you can see in the picture I clamped down a board to the edge of the table so as I glued up the sides I could add some pressure as the super glue kicked in.
> Not shown but I held a square to it as I held it to keep every thing squared up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are 26 chairs to make yuck!!! LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put Danish oil on the seats as once the roof is on it ain't going to get done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on with the roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the last board at an angle for the roof and glues it on but just needed a little more work, so took it to the table saw and did a job on my nerves cutting it, but that got it close enough to sand it to right.
> So So glad the box was square or this could have got tricky!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is going to be one long car!!!
> This was done over many short days.












I love these super cheap clamps from Harbor Freight really great time saver.


----------



## htl

*Cattle cars number 3&4*

Yes we are making another one, in fact I'll be building two.
Just wanted to make something quick and like building for my Reading train so a cattle car or two it will be.
I've tries explaining how I glue and cut the sides for the car, 
and it has always been an after thought so this time I took pictures as I did it so should come out more logical.

This is walnut and maple and is a scratch build from pictures.

They will look something like this when done.









Cutting grooves in the floor with the miter saw.
Yes it could be done with the tip I'm showing next but not that safe with this thin a wood.



























Now on to the sides, cutting the slats.
First I glue on all the braces, [and glue them really good!]



















I use this jig to shape and fine tune the angles.


















Now that the braces are all glued on, 
I set the table saw blade to just cut the sides and just a tad of the braces.

For this project I made a 3/8" spacer board and set it between the blade and fence and move the fence next to the spacer and blade.









Lock the fence and take out the spacer and make first cut.
In this picture I've already made the cut.









Now slide the side back over the blade and loosen the fence to add the spacer.










Add the spacer and slide fence over and lock, then take out spacer.

















Your now ready for cut number two.









Again slide the board over the blade, add the spacer and lock down the fence.



























We're now ready for the third cut, and we keep this up till we have all we need.





































I used the same method for the ends and then started gluing it up.
The board inside is just to square it up.




































Here's the link to the first time I made a cattle car.


I hope this was helpful to some one.


----------



## doubleDD

htl said:


> *Cattle cars number 3&4*
> 
> Yes we are making another one, in fact I'll be building two.
> Just wanted to make something quick and like building for my Reading train so a cattle car or two it will be.
> I've tries explaining how I glue and cut the sides for the car,
> and it has always been an after thought so this time I took pictures as I did it so should come out more logical.
> 
> This is walnut and maple and is a scratch build from pictures.
> 
> They will look something like this when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting grooves in the floor with the miter saw.
> Yes it could be done with the tip I'm showing next but not that safe with this thin a wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to the sides, cutting the slats.
> First I glue on all the braces, [and glue them really good!]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use this jig to shape and fine tune the angles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the braces are all glued on,
> I set the table saw blade to just cut the sides and just a tad of the braces.
> 
> For this project I made a 3/8" spacer board and set it between the blade and fence and move the fence next to the spacer and blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lock the fence and take out the spacer and make first cut.
> In this picture I've already made the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now slide the side back over the blade and loosen the fence to add the spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add the spacer and slide fence over and lock, then take out spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your now ready for cut number two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again slide the board over the blade, add the spacer and lock down the fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We're now ready for the third cut, and we keep this up till we have all we need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used the same method for the ends and then started gluing it up.
> The board inside is just to square it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the link to the first time I made a cattle car.
> 
> 
> I hope this was helpful to some one.


What a great job. It looks so authentic I can smell the cattle from here.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Cattle cars number 3&4*
> 
> Yes we are making another one, in fact I'll be building two.
> Just wanted to make something quick and like building for my Reading train so a cattle car or two it will be.
> I've tries explaining how I glue and cut the sides for the car,
> and it has always been an after thought so this time I took pictures as I did it so should come out more logical.
> 
> This is walnut and maple and is a scratch build from pictures.
> 
> They will look something like this when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting grooves in the floor with the miter saw.
> Yes it could be done with the tip I'm showing next but not that safe with this thin a wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to the sides, cutting the slats.
> First I glue on all the braces, [and glue them really good!]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use this jig to shape and fine tune the angles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the braces are all glued on,
> I set the table saw blade to just cut the sides and just a tad of the braces.
> 
> For this project I made a 3/8" spacer board and set it between the blade and fence and move the fence next to the spacer and blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lock the fence and take out the spacer and make first cut.
> In this picture I've already made the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now slide the side back over the blade and loosen the fence to add the spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add the spacer and slide fence over and lock, then take out spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your now ready for cut number two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again slide the board over the blade, add the spacer and lock down the fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We're now ready for the third cut, and we keep this up till we have all we need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used the same method for the ends and then started gluing it up.
> The board inside is just to square it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the link to the first time I made a cattle car.
> 
> 
> I hope this was helpful to some one.


That's an ingenious way to get a great looking side to that wagon Bruce, top marks sir…


----------



## Budster

htl said:


> *Cattle cars number 3&4*
> 
> Yes we are making another one, in fact I'll be building two.
> Just wanted to make something quick and like building for my Reading train so a cattle car or two it will be.
> I've tries explaining how I glue and cut the sides for the car,
> and it has always been an after thought so this time I took pictures as I did it so should come out more logical.
> 
> This is walnut and maple and is a scratch build from pictures.
> 
> They will look something like this when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting grooves in the floor with the miter saw.
> Yes it could be done with the tip I'm showing next but not that safe with this thin a wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to the sides, cutting the slats.
> First I glue on all the braces, [and glue them really good!]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use this jig to shape and fine tune the angles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the braces are all glued on,
> I set the table saw blade to just cut the sides and just a tad of the braces.
> 
> For this project I made a 3/8" spacer board and set it between the blade and fence and move the fence next to the spacer and blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lock the fence and take out the spacer and make first cut.
> In this picture I've already made the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now slide the side back over the blade and loosen the fence to add the spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add the spacer and slide fence over and lock, then take out spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your now ready for cut number two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again slide the board over the blade, add the spacer and lock down the fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We're now ready for the third cut, and we keep this up till we have all we need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used the same method for the ends and then started gluing it up.
> The board inside is just to square it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the link to the first time I made a cattle car.
> 
> 
> I hope this was helpful to some one.


Real top of the line work, well done.


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Cattle cars number 3&4*
> 
> Yes we are making another one, in fact I'll be building two.
> Just wanted to make something quick and like building for my Reading train so a cattle car or two it will be.
> I've tries explaining how I glue and cut the sides for the car,
> and it has always been an after thought so this time I took pictures as I did it so should come out more logical.
> 
> This is walnut and maple and is a scratch build from pictures.
> 
> They will look something like this when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting grooves in the floor with the miter saw.
> Yes it could be done with the tip I'm showing next but not that safe with this thin a wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to the sides, cutting the slats.
> First I glue on all the braces, [and glue them really good!]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use this jig to shape and fine tune the angles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the braces are all glued on,
> I set the table saw blade to just cut the sides and just a tad of the braces.
> 
> For this project I made a 3/8" spacer board and set it between the blade and fence and move the fence next to the spacer and blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lock the fence and take out the spacer and make first cut.
> In this picture I've already made the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now slide the side back over the blade and loosen the fence to add the spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add the spacer and slide fence over and lock, then take out spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your now ready for cut number two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again slide the board over the blade, add the spacer and lock down the fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We're now ready for the third cut, and we keep this up till we have all we need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used the same method for the ends and then started gluing it up.
> The board inside is just to square it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the link to the first time I made a cattle car.
> 
> 
> I hope this was helpful to some one.


Good start, looking good, keep us posted.


----------



## Jason1974

htl said:


> *Cattle cars number 3&4*
> 
> Yes we are making another one, in fact I'll be building two.
> Just wanted to make something quick and like building for my Reading train so a cattle car or two it will be.
> I've tries explaining how I glue and cut the sides for the car,
> and it has always been an after thought so this time I took pictures as I did it so should come out more logical.
> 
> This is walnut and maple and is a scratch build from pictures.
> 
> They will look something like this when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting grooves in the floor with the miter saw.
> Yes it could be done with the tip I'm showing next but not that safe with this thin a wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to the sides, cutting the slats.
> First I glue on all the braces, [and glue them really good!]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use this jig to shape and fine tune the angles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the braces are all glued on,
> I set the table saw blade to just cut the sides and just a tad of the braces.
> 
> For this project I made a 3/8" spacer board and set it between the blade and fence and move the fence next to the spacer and blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lock the fence and take out the spacer and make first cut.
> In this picture I've already made the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now slide the side back over the blade and loosen the fence to add the spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add the spacer and slide fence over and lock, then take out spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your now ready for cut number two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again slide the board over the blade, add the spacer and lock down the fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We're now ready for the third cut, and we keep this up till we have all we need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used the same method for the ends and then started gluing it up.
> The board inside is just to square it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the link to the first time I made a cattle car.
> 
> 
> I hope this was helpful to some one.


Nice, I like it. Especially how you made the side walls. I Should be getting back in the shop soon.


----------



## htl

*Cattle cars number 3&4 Doors & Roof*

Got a little more added to the car.
Glued up the top and cut to shape.


















Then on to the doors.









Super thin door slats so need to be careful cutting them out.



























Then played with making some trucks and wheels.









Been hard at it but getting er done.


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Cattle cars number 3&4 Doors & Roof*
> 
> Got a little more added to the car.
> Glued up the top and cut to shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Super thin door slats so need to be careful cutting them out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then played with making some trucks and wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Been hard at it but getting er done.


Coming right along keep us posted.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Cattle cars number 3&4 Doors & Roof*
> 
> Got a little more added to the car.
> Glued up the top and cut to shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Super thin door slats so need to be careful cutting them out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then played with making some trucks and wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Been hard at it but getting er done.


Hard yes, but Bruce, like the little bloke in the last photo you've kept at it doing a first class job. 
Nicely done sir.


----------



## Budster

htl said:


> *Cattle cars number 3&4 Doors & Roof*
> 
> Got a little more added to the car.
> Glued up the top and cut to shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Super thin door slats so need to be careful cutting them out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then played with making some trucks and wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Been hard at it but getting er done.


A big well done. Real top of the line as always.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Cattle cars number 3&4 Doors & Roof*
> 
> Got a little more added to the car.
> Glued up the top and cut to shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Super thin door slats so need to be careful cutting them out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then played with making some trucks and wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Been hard at it but getting er done.


love the veiw out the window looks like a real cattle car :<))


----------



## htl

*Getting started on an old car*

I build this Toys and Joys car [1932 Ford] way back but used pine and just was never happy with the way it came out so lets try it again with some oak.
This is a very simple [old] plan so doesn't come with many details.

Cut out the sides and frame then sand sand sand!!!


















Glue up for the hood, I don't have much of this really figured oak so will be facing some plywood to get it done.









Here I'm taking off the masking tape and pattern for the frame really makes clean up easy.









Picture of the parts.





















































Will need to be playing with some spoke wheels in the near future me thinks. :-]


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Getting started on an old car*
> 
> I build this Toys and Joys car [1932 Ford] way back but used pine and just was never happy with the way it came out so lets try it again with some oak.
> This is a very simple [old] plan so doesn't come with many details.
> 
> Cut out the sides and frame then sand sand sand!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue up for the hood, I don't have much of this really figured oak so will be facing some plywood to get it done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I'm taking off the masking tape and pattern for the frame really makes clean up easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Picture of the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will need to be playing with some spoke wheels in the near future me thinks. :-]


this car will look pretty good in oak :<))))


----------



## Budster

htl said:


> *Getting started on an old car*
> 
> I build this Toys and Joys car [1932 Ford] way back but used pine and just was never happy with the way it came out so lets try it again with some oak.
> This is a very simple [old] plan so doesn't come with many details.
> 
> Cut out the sides and frame then sand sand sand!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue up for the hood, I don't have much of this really figured oak so will be facing some plywood to get it done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I'm taking off the masking tape and pattern for the frame really makes clean up easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Picture of the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will need to be playing with some spoke wheels in the near future me thinks. :-]


I agree it should be a keeper.


----------



## FrenchGoattoys

htl said:


> *Getting started on an old car*
> 
> I build this Toys and Joys car [1932 Ford] way back but used pine and just was never happy with the way it came out so lets try it again with some oak.
> This is a very simple [old] plan so doesn't come with many details.
> 
> Cut out the sides and frame then sand sand sand!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue up for the hood, I don't have much of this really figured oak so will be facing some plywood to get it done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I'm taking off the masking tape and pattern for the frame really makes clean up easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Picture of the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will need to be playing with some spoke wheels in the near future me thinks. :-]


You are well on your way to something I think is going to look fabulous.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Getting started on an old car*
> 
> I build this Toys and Joys car [1932 Ford] way back but used pine and just was never happy with the way it came out so lets try it again with some oak.
> This is a very simple [old] plan so doesn't come with many details.
> 
> Cut out the sides and frame then sand sand sand!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue up for the hood, I don't have much of this really figured oak so will be facing some plywood to get it done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I'm taking off the masking tape and pattern for the frame really makes clean up easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Picture of the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will need to be playing with some spoke wheels in the near future me thinks. :-]


Watching and learning from a master. 
Thank you Bruce, this will help me wit ideas and "how to's" for my 1933 Ford.


----------



## FrenchGoattoys

htl said:


> *Getting started on an old car*
> 
> I build this Toys and Joys car [1932 Ford] way back but used pine and just was never happy with the way it came out so lets try it again with some oak.
> This is a very simple [old] plan so doesn't come with many details.
> 
> Cut out the sides and frame then sand sand sand!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue up for the hood, I don't have much of this really figured oak so will be facing some plywood to get it done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I'm taking off the masking tape and pattern for the frame really makes clean up easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Picture of the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will need to be playing with some spoke wheels in the near future me thinks. :-]


Is there an angle at the trunk? Can't tell. If so, what is the angle?


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Getting started on an old car*
> 
> I build this Toys and Joys car [1932 Ford] way back but used pine and just was never happy with the way it came out so lets try it again with some oak.
> This is a very simple [old] plan so doesn't come with many details.
> 
> Cut out the sides and frame then sand sand sand!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue up for the hood, I don't have much of this really figured oak so will be facing some plywood to get it done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I'm taking off the masking tape and pattern for the frame really makes clean up easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Picture of the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will need to be playing with some spoke wheels in the near future me thinks. :-]





> Is there an angle at the trunk? Can't tell. If so, what is the angle?
> 
> - FrenchGoattoys


It fits the shape of the body and is flat across the back, It hasn't been sanded yet, hope that's what your asking for.


----------



## Vaske

htl said:


> *Getting started on an old car*
> 
> I build this Toys and Joys car [1932 Ford] way back but used pine and just was never happy with the way it came out so lets try it again with some oak.
> This is a very simple [old] plan so doesn't come with many details.
> 
> Cut out the sides and frame then sand sand sand!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glue up for the hood, I don't have much of this really figured oak so will be facing some plywood to get it done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I'm taking off the masking tape and pattern for the frame really makes clean up easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Picture of the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will need to be playing with some spoke wheels in the near future me thinks. :-]


I like this, how I can get plan?


----------



## htl

*32 Ford working on the radiator*

It's coming together.









I always love playing with the radiator or grill.
I made sure I built it and glued it to the bonnet before I glued the hood to the frame as last time I forgot and made my work a lot harder. 
It's so much easier to sand the grill and hood as one part with out the frame and other parts in the way.

Here you can see the plywood heart of the hood.

























Then glue it all up and sand every thing flush.

















The oak has some nice grain to it but had to work around a lot a worm holes as you can see in the last picture.
Running out of it but the spare tire should hide this bugger.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *32 Ford working on the radiator*
> 
> It's coming together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I always love playing with the radiator or grill.
> I made sure I built it and glued it to the bonnet before I glued the hood to the frame as last time I forgot and made my work a lot harder.
> It's so much easier to sand the grill and hood as one part with out the frame and other parts in the way.
> 
> Here you can see the plywood heart of the hood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then glue it all up and sand every thing flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oak has some nice grain to it but had to work around a lot a worm holes as you can see in the last picture.
> Running out of it but the spare tire should hide this bugger.


Looking good Bruce. 
Like the way you've done the radiator.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *32 Ford working on the radiator*
> 
> It's coming together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I always love playing with the radiator or grill.
> I made sure I built it and glued it to the bonnet before I glued the hood to the frame as last time I forgot and made my work a lot harder.
> It's so much easier to sand the grill and hood as one part with out the frame and other parts in the way.
> 
> Here you can see the plywood heart of the hood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then glue it all up and sand every thing flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oak has some nice grain to it but had to work around a lot a worm holes as you can see in the last picture.
> Running out of it but the spare tire should hide this bugger.


i also love the way you did this gonna be a GR8 model for sure :<)))


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *32 Ford working on the radiator*
> 
> It's coming together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I always love playing with the radiator or grill.
> I made sure I built it and glued it to the bonnet before I glued the hood to the frame as last time I forgot and made my work a lot harder.
> It's so much easier to sand the grill and hood as one part with out the frame and other parts in the way.
> 
> Here you can see the plywood heart of the hood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then glue it all up and sand every thing flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oak has some nice grain to it but had to work around a lot a worm holes as you can see in the last picture.
> Running out of it but the spare tire should hide this bugger.


Doing a fine job Bruce!


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *32 Ford working on the radiator*
> 
> It's coming together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I always love playing with the radiator or grill.
> I made sure I built it and glued it to the bonnet before I glued the hood to the frame as last time I forgot and made my work a lot harder.
> It's so much easier to sand the grill and hood as one part with out the frame and other parts in the way.
> 
> Here you can see the plywood heart of the hood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then glue it all up and sand every thing flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oak has some nice grain to it but had to work around a lot a worm holes as you can see in the last picture.
> Running out of it but the spare tire should hide this bugger.


This will be a nice car at the end. For me a motivation to make a same one. But for now I'm bussy with orther things.


----------



## hunter71

htl said:


> *32 Ford working on the radiator*
> 
> It's coming together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I always love playing with the radiator or grill.
> I made sure I built it and glued it to the bonnet before I glued the hood to the frame as last time I forgot and made my work a lot harder.
> It's so much easier to sand the grill and hood as one part with out the frame and other parts in the way.
> 
> Here you can see the plywood heart of the hood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then glue it all up and sand every thing flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oak has some nice grain to it but had to work around a lot a worm holes as you can see in the last picture.
> Running out of it but the spare tire should hide this bugger.


Been some time since I built a car, I have a sketch of a 32 Ford 5 window I made some time ago. Got me wanting to finally make it. Coming along nice my friend.


----------



## Alongiron

htl said:


> *32 Ford working on the radiator*
> 
> It's coming together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I always love playing with the radiator or grill.
> I made sure I built it and glued it to the bonnet before I glued the hood to the frame as last time I forgot and made my work a lot harder.
> It's so much easier to sand the grill and hood as one part with out the frame and other parts in the way.
> 
> Here you can see the plywood heart of the hood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then glue it all up and sand every thing flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oak has some nice grain to it but had to work around a lot a worm holes as you can see in the last picture.
> Running out of it but the spare tire should hide this bugger.


Bruce
Very nice project! One question on that radiator….how did you cut the groves in it? I really like the look and feel of it. I would like to try it on my next vehicle.
Keep up the great work!
Steve


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *32 Ford working on the radiator*
> 
> It's coming together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I always love playing with the radiator or grill.
> I made sure I built it and glued it to the bonnet before I glued the hood to the frame as last time I forgot and made my work a lot harder.
> It's so much easier to sand the grill and hood as one part with out the frame and other parts in the way.
> 
> Here you can see the plywood heart of the hood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then glue it all up and sand every thing flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oak has some nice grain to it but had to work around a lot a worm holes as you can see in the last picture.
> Running out of it but the spare tire should hide this bugger.





> This will be a nice car at the end. For me a motivation to make a same one. But for now I m bussy with orther things.
> 
> - Dutchy


hopefully with another model :<)))))))))))))


----------



## intrainingcnc

htl said:


> *32 Ford working on the radiator*
> 
> It's coming together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I always love playing with the radiator or grill.
> I made sure I built it and glued it to the bonnet before I glued the hood to the frame as last time I forgot and made my work a lot harder.
> It's so much easier to sand the grill and hood as one part with out the frame and other parts in the way.
> 
> Here you can see the plywood heart of the hood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then glue it all up and sand every thing flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The oak has some nice grain to it but had to work around a lot a worm holes as you can see in the last picture.
> Running out of it but the spare tire should hide this bugger.


A man after my owm heart. Looks great


----------



## htl

*32 Ford working on the roof and insides*

Played around with making a fat steering wheel or two.
Used the same steps I would for making a spoke wheel will try some smaller spokes [tooth picks] next go round.
I started out making four but two didn't survive the operation.









Once the spokes are glued in you can cut the front and back on the band saw to break it loose from the back and get the thickness you want.




























Please remember that on most of the things I show it's a first try so may not always turn out the best but you got to start some where, and just might spark an idea for some one.

Then on with the roof and got a start on the wheel wells.
I've been buying quality hole saw bits *as I need a new size* here lately and it has really saved me a ton a sanding on the insides of wheel wells and the like.
And then you guessed it a ton a sanding on all the body parts.. ;-[


















The wheels are left overs from my last try at spoke wheels.
May try to copy these but probable easier to just make a new set so they all match up right.
I've got a lot a long narrow scraps of oak so I better start cutting and gluing it up for wheel blanks.

*Here's a note on sanding disks and a problem I've been having.*

Over time I have had the pads on the bottom of my Ryobi and Harbor Freight sanders get where they wouldn't hold the pads any more because the sand paper would split apart and ware out the Hook and Lock Backing part of the sander.
This was because I had been getting the sand paper that has cuts so it can work on more than one size sander but the cut areas would catch on something and would roll up and expose the Hook and Lock Backing of the sander and ware out the Hook and Lock Backing pad.
So now I have two sanders that work just fine but can't hold any sand paper.

The short of it.

*So what I'm trying to say is get the pads that are all in one and not cut up for use with more than one size sander.*

Don't get this if you want your sander to last.









But try and find these as they won't come apart and mess up the sander.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *32 Ford working on the roof and insides*
> 
> Played around with making a fat steering wheel or two.
> Used the same steps I would for making a spoke wheel will try some smaller spokes [tooth picks] next go round.
> I started out making four but two didn't survive the operation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the spokes are glued in you can cut the front and back on the band saw to break it loose from the back and get the thickness you want.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please remember that on most of the things I show it's a first try so may not always turn out the best but you got to start some where, and just might spark an idea for some one.
> 
> Then on with the roof and got a start on the wheel wells.
> I've been buying quality hole saw bits *as I need a new size* here lately and it has really saved me a ton a sanding on the insides of wheel wells and the like.
> And then you guessed it a ton a sanding on all the body parts.. ;-[
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wheels are left overs from my last try at spoke wheels.
> May try to copy these but probable easier to just make a new set so they all match up right.
> I've got a lot a long narrow scraps of oak so I better start cutting and gluing it up for wheel blanks.
> 
> *Here's a note on sanding disks and a problem I've been having.*
> 
> Over time I have had the pads on the bottom of my Ryobi and Harbor Freight sanders get where they wouldn't hold the pads any more because the sand paper would split apart and ware out the Hook and Lock Backing part of the sander.
> This was because I had been getting the sand paper that has cuts so it can work on more than one size sander but the cut areas would catch on something and would roll up and expose the Hook and Lock Backing of the sander and ware out the Hook and Lock Backing pad.
> So now I have two sanders that work just fine but can't hold any sand paper.
> 
> The short of it.
> 
> *So what I'm trying to say is get the pads that are all in one and not cut up for use with more than one size sander.*
> 
> Don't get this if you want your sander to last.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But try and find these as they won't come apart and mess up the sander.


Wheels and steering wheel idea nice blog entries!


----------



## Redoak49

htl said:


> *32 Ford working on the roof and insides*
> 
> Played around with making a fat steering wheel or two.
> Used the same steps I would for making a spoke wheel will try some smaller spokes [tooth picks] next go round.
> I started out making four but two didn't survive the operation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the spokes are glued in you can cut the front and back on the band saw to break it loose from the back and get the thickness you want.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please remember that on most of the things I show it's a first try so may not always turn out the best but you got to start some where, and just might spark an idea for some one.
> 
> Then on with the roof and got a start on the wheel wells.
> I've been buying quality hole saw bits *as I need a new size* here lately and it has really saved me a ton a sanding on the insides of wheel wells and the like.
> And then you guessed it a ton a sanding on all the body parts.. ;-[
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wheels are left overs from my last try at spoke wheels.
> May try to copy these but probable easier to just make a new set so they all match up right.
> I've got a lot a long narrow scraps of oak so I better start cutting and gluing it up for wheel blanks.
> 
> *Here's a note on sanding disks and a problem I've been having.*
> 
> Over time I have had the pads on the bottom of my Ryobi and Harbor Freight sanders get where they wouldn't hold the pads any more because the sand paper would split apart and ware out the Hook and Lock Backing part of the sander.
> This was because I had been getting the sand paper that has cuts so it can work on more than one size sander but the cut areas would catch on something and would roll up and expose the Hook and Lock Backing of the sander and ware out the Hook and Lock Backing pad.
> So now I have two sanders that work just fine but can't hold any sand paper.
> 
> The short of it.
> 
> *So what I'm trying to say is get the pads that are all in one and not cut up for use with more than one size sander.*
> 
> Don't get this if you want your sander to last.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But try and find these as they won't come apart and mess up the sander.


Like your idea for steering wheel.


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *32 Ford working on the roof and insides*
> 
> Played around with making a fat steering wheel or two.
> Used the same steps I would for making a spoke wheel will try some smaller spokes [tooth picks] next go round.
> I started out making four but two didn't survive the operation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the spokes are glued in you can cut the front and back on the band saw to break it loose from the back and get the thickness you want.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please remember that on most of the things I show it's a first try so may not always turn out the best but you got to start some where, and just might spark an idea for some one.
> 
> Then on with the roof and got a start on the wheel wells.
> I've been buying quality hole saw bits *as I need a new size* here lately and it has really saved me a ton a sanding on the insides of wheel wells and the like.
> And then you guessed it a ton a sanding on all the body parts.. ;-[
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wheels are left overs from my last try at spoke wheels.
> May try to copy these but probable easier to just make a new set so they all match up right.
> I've got a lot a long narrow scraps of oak so I better start cutting and gluing it up for wheel blanks.
> 
> *Here's a note on sanding disks and a problem I've been having.*
> 
> Over time I have had the pads on the bottom of my Ryobi and Harbor Freight sanders get where they wouldn't hold the pads any more because the sand paper would split apart and ware out the Hook and Lock Backing part of the sander.
> This was because I had been getting the sand paper that has cuts so it can work on more than one size sander but the cut areas would catch on something and would roll up and expose the Hook and Lock Backing of the sander and ware out the Hook and Lock Backing pad.
> So now I have two sanders that work just fine but can't hold any sand paper.
> 
> The short of it.
> 
> *So what I'm trying to say is get the pads that are all in one and not cut up for use with more than one size sander.*
> 
> Don't get this if you want your sander to last.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But try and find these as they won't come apart and mess up the sander.


Good Work in progress.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *32 Ford working on the roof and insides*
> 
> Played around with making a fat steering wheel or two.
> Used the same steps I would for making a spoke wheel will try some smaller spokes [tooth picks] next go round.
> I started out making four but two didn't survive the operation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the spokes are glued in you can cut the front and back on the band saw to break it loose from the back and get the thickness you want.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please remember that on most of the things I show it's a first try so may not always turn out the best but you got to start some where, and just might spark an idea for some one.
> 
> Then on with the roof and got a start on the wheel wells.
> I've been buying quality hole saw bits *as I need a new size* here lately and it has really saved me a ton a sanding on the insides of wheel wells and the like.
> And then you guessed it a ton a sanding on all the body parts.. ;-[
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wheels are left overs from my last try at spoke wheels.
> May try to copy these but probable easier to just make a new set so they all match up right.
> I've got a lot a long narrow scraps of oak so I better start cutting and gluing it up for wheel blanks.
> 
> *Here's a note on sanding disks and a problem I've been having.*
> 
> Over time I have had the pads on the bottom of my Ryobi and Harbor Freight sanders get where they wouldn't hold the pads any more because the sand paper would split apart and ware out the Hook and Lock Backing part of the sander.
> This was because I had been getting the sand paper that has cuts so it can work on more than one size sander but the cut areas would catch on something and would roll up and expose the Hook and Lock Backing of the sander and ware out the Hook and Lock Backing pad.
> So now I have two sanders that work just fine but can't hold any sand paper.
> 
> The short of it.
> 
> *So what I'm trying to say is get the pads that are all in one and not cut up for use with more than one size sander.*
> 
> Don't get this if you want your sander to last.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But try and find these as they won't come apart and mess up the sander.


That steering wheel idea will have to go in the "memory bank"... top one Bruce, thank you.


----------



## htl

*32 Ford working on the Fenders*




























And wheels finished up.


----------



## Redoak49

htl said:


> *32 Ford working on the Fenders*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And wheels finished up.


How did you match the fenders to the body so well? They look great.


----------



## Northwest29

htl said:


> *32 Ford working on the Fenders*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And wheels finished up.


Looking mighty darn good!


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *32 Ford working on the Fenders*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And wheels finished up.


Shaping up to be a real jewel.


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *32 Ford working on the Fenders*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And wheels finished up.


GREAT!!!!


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## htl

htl said:


> *32 Ford working on the Fenders*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And wheels finished up.





> How did you match the fenders to the body so well? They look great.
> 
> - Redoak49


Redoak I glued up the frame body hood and radiator, sanded it all to fit then could set it on some paper and draw the angles of the frame then cut the fenders to match. 
I also rounded the edges just a little to hide and small imperfections.


----------



## Budster

htl said:


> *32 Ford working on the Fenders*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And wheels finished up.


Love Your Work.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *32 Ford working on the Fenders*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And wheels finished up.


That car is one beautiful model Bruce, the lines are well done and the wheels are superb sir…


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## pottz

htl said:


> *32 Ford working on the Fenders*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And wheels finished up.


wow that is wood model building at it's finest.cant wait to see this one completed.


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## doubleDD

htl said:


> *32 Ford working on the Fenders*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And wheels finished up.


You have a real knack for making these. It's a piece of art.


----------



## htl

*32 Hot Rod Chevy Coupe*

I keep giving away my hot rods so lets try it one more time.
I hid the big motor on the last one so thought I would leave the hood off this time to let it be seen, will also be putting the fenders on it, adds a ton a work but really makes for one sweet looking ride.

Lowered the roof about a half inch and lowered the body to where the frame is covered, there's a name for it but ain't coming to me right now.

*+++ Up Date+++*
cutting body = chop,
lowering over chassis = channeling
...chop n channel.

These are Toys and Joys plans and one from way back when they weren't putting frames on their models which make for a great first time build, you don't have to worry about the frame not lining up or other problem that can get a new builder in trouble.
That being said I had to cut out for the motor.










Already have a motor for it, so we'll see how that works.


























Had to get the inners made and finished so I could close it all up.





































#4 over and out


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *32 Hot Rod Chevy Coupe*
> 
> I keep giving away my hot rods so lets try it one more time.
> I hid the big motor on the last one so thought I would leave the hood off this time to let it be seen, will also be putting the fenders on it, adds a ton a work but really makes for one sweet looking ride.
> 
> Lowered the roof about a half inch and lowered the body to where the frame is covered, there's a name for it but ain't coming to me right now.
> 
> *+++ Up Date+++*
> cutting body = chop,
> lowering over chassis = channeling
> ...chop n channel.
> 
> These are Toys and Joys plans and one from way back when they weren't putting frames on their models which make for a great first time build, you don't have to worry about the frame not lining up or other problem that can get a new builder in trouble.
> That being said I had to cut out for the motor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Already have a motor for it, so we'll see how that works.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to get the inners made and finished so I could close it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #4 over and out


WOW, Bruce your progress is as always first class, thank you


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *32 Hot Rod Chevy Coupe*
> 
> I keep giving away my hot rods so lets try it one more time.
> I hid the big motor on the last one so thought I would leave the hood off this time to let it be seen, will also be putting the fenders on it, adds a ton a work but really makes for one sweet looking ride.
> 
> Lowered the roof about a half inch and lowered the body to where the frame is covered, there's a name for it but ain't coming to me right now.
> 
> *+++ Up Date+++*
> cutting body = chop,
> lowering over chassis = channeling
> ...chop n channel.
> 
> These are Toys and Joys plans and one from way back when they weren't putting frames on their models which make for a great first time build, you don't have to worry about the frame not lining up or other problem that can get a new builder in trouble.
> That being said I had to cut out for the motor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Already have a motor for it, so we'll see how that works.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to get the inners made and finished so I could close it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #4 over and out


Looking Good Did I understand you plan to make a street rod that has been chopped & channeled ?


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *32 Hot Rod Chevy Coupe*
> 
> I keep giving away my hot rods so lets try it one more time.
> I hid the big motor on the last one so thought I would leave the hood off this time to let it be seen, will also be putting the fenders on it, adds a ton a work but really makes for one sweet looking ride.
> 
> Lowered the roof about a half inch and lowered the body to where the frame is covered, there's a name for it but ain't coming to me right now.
> 
> *+++ Up Date+++*
> cutting body = chop,
> lowering over chassis = channeling
> ...chop n channel.
> 
> These are Toys and Joys plans and one from way back when they weren't putting frames on their models which make for a great first time build, you don't have to worry about the frame not lining up or other problem that can get a new builder in trouble.
> That being said I had to cut out for the motor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Already have a motor for it, so we'll see how that works.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to get the inners made and finished so I could close it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #4 over and out


Well olddrivers I guess I am even if I didn't know what you call it???


----------



## FrenchGoattoys

htl said:


> *32 Hot Rod Chevy Coupe*
> 
> I keep giving away my hot rods so lets try it one more time.
> I hid the big motor on the last one so thought I would leave the hood off this time to let it be seen, will also be putting the fenders on it, adds a ton a work but really makes for one sweet looking ride.
> 
> Lowered the roof about a half inch and lowered the body to where the frame is covered, there's a name for it but ain't coming to me right now.
> 
> *+++ Up Date+++*
> cutting body = chop,
> lowering over chassis = channeling
> ...chop n channel.
> 
> These are Toys and Joys plans and one from way back when they weren't putting frames on their models which make for a great first time build, you don't have to worry about the frame not lining up or other problem that can get a new builder in trouble.
> That being said I had to cut out for the motor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Already have a motor for it, so we'll see how that works.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to get the inners made and finished so I could close it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #4 over and out


I am amazed at how fast you, and a few others on this site, put projects together. From the time I made the Jeep axe and spade to the time I glued the last piece it was about 180 days. The train took me just over a year. Great job thus far. I might need those engine plans for a future project.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *32 Hot Rod Chevy Coupe*
> 
> I keep giving away my hot rods so lets try it one more time.
> I hid the big motor on the last one so thought I would leave the hood off this time to let it be seen, will also be putting the fenders on it, adds a ton a work but really makes for one sweet looking ride.
> 
> Lowered the roof about a half inch and lowered the body to where the frame is covered, there's a name for it but ain't coming to me right now.
> 
> *+++ Up Date+++*
> cutting body = chop,
> lowering over chassis = channeling
> ...chop n channel.
> 
> These are Toys and Joys plans and one from way back when they weren't putting frames on their models which make for a great first time build, you don't have to worry about the frame not lining up or other problem that can get a new builder in trouble.
> That being said I had to cut out for the motor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Already have a motor for it, so we'll see how that works.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to get the inners made and finished so I could close it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #4 over and out


FGT they're just some picture off the net.
https://www.lumberjocks.com/htl/blog/115530
The more projects you do the faster you get, you get where you know what you need to do and have the steps in your head so things go much smoother.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *32 Hot Rod Chevy Coupe*
> 
> I keep giving away my hot rods so lets try it one more time.
> I hid the big motor on the last one so thought I would leave the hood off this time to let it be seen, will also be putting the fenders on it, adds a ton a work but really makes for one sweet looking ride.
> 
> Lowered the roof about a half inch and lowered the body to where the frame is covered, there's a name for it but ain't coming to me right now.
> 
> *+++ Up Date+++*
> cutting body = chop,
> lowering over chassis = channeling
> ...chop n channel.
> 
> These are Toys and Joys plans and one from way back when they weren't putting frames on their models which make for a great first time build, you don't have to worry about the frame not lining up or other problem that can get a new builder in trouble.
> That being said I had to cut out for the motor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Already have a motor for it, so we'll see how that works.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to get the inners made and finished so I could close it all up.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #4 over and out


ummmm i think thats a ford engine #4 LMAO :<))))))


----------



## FrenchGoattoys

htl said:


> *32 Hot Rod Chevy Coupe*
> 
> I keep giving away my hot rods so lets try it one more time.
> I hid the big motor on the last one so thought I would leave the hood off this time to let it be seen, will also be putting the fenders on it, adds a ton a work but really makes for one sweet looking ride.
> 
> Lowered the roof about a half inch and lowered the body to where the frame is covered, there's a name for it but ain't coming to me right now.
> 
> *+++ Up Date+++*
> cutting body = chop,
> lowering over chassis = channeling
> ...chop n channel.
> 
> These are Toys and Joys plans and one from way back when they weren't putting frames on their models which make for a great first time build, you don't have to worry about the frame not lining up or other problem that can get a new builder in trouble.
> That being said I had to cut out for the motor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Already have a motor for it, so we'll see how that works.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to get the inners made and finished so I could close it all up.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> #4 over and out


Thanks, I will log it.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *32 Hot Rod Chevy Coupe*
> 
> I keep giving away my hot rods so lets try it one more time.
> I hid the big motor on the last one so thought I would leave the hood off this time to let it be seen, will also be putting the fenders on it, adds a ton a work but really makes for one sweet looking ride.
> 
> Lowered the roof about a half inch and lowered the body to where the frame is covered, there's a name for it but ain't coming to me right now.
> 
> *+++ Up Date+++*
> cutting body = chop,
> lowering over chassis = channeling
> ...chop n channel.
> 
> These are Toys and Joys plans and one from way back when they weren't putting frames on their models which make for a great first time build, you don't have to worry about the frame not lining up or other problem that can get a new builder in trouble.
> That being said I had to cut out for the motor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Already have a motor for it, so we'll see how that works.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to get the inners made and finished so I could close it all up.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> #4 over and out


Tony it may be I just grabbed the first one I saw in the scrap box???
Show me a Chevy and I'll make changes maybe. LOL


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *32 Hot Rod Chevy Coupe*
> 
> I keep giving away my hot rods so lets try it one more time.
> I hid the big motor on the last one so thought I would leave the hood off this time to let it be seen, will also be putting the fenders on it, adds a ton a work but really makes for one sweet looking ride.
> 
> Lowered the roof about a half inch and lowered the body to where the frame is covered, there's a name for it but ain't coming to me right now.
> 
> *+++ Up Date+++*
> cutting body = chop,
> lowering over chassis = channeling
> ...chop n channel.
> 
> These are Toys and Joys plans and one from way back when they weren't putting frames on their models which make for a great first time build, you don't have to worry about the frame not lining up or other problem that can get a new builder in trouble.
> That being said I had to cut out for the motor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Already have a motor for it, so we'll see how that works.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to get the inners made and finished so I could close it all up.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> #4 over and out


cutting body = chop, 
lowering over chassis = channelling 
...chop n channel.
*Very interesting!!!*


----------



## Reesa

htl said:


> *32 Hot Rod Chevy Coupe*
> 
> I keep giving away my hot rods so lets try it one more time.
> I hid the big motor on the last one so thought I would leave the hood off this time to let it be seen, will also be putting the fenders on it, adds a ton a work but really makes for one sweet looking ride.
> 
> Lowered the roof about a half inch and lowered the body to where the frame is covered, there's a name for it but ain't coming to me right now.
> 
> *+++ Up Date+++*
> cutting body = chop,
> lowering over chassis = channeling
> ...chop n channel.
> 
> These are Toys and Joys plans and one from way back when they weren't putting frames on their models which make for a great first time build, you don't have to worry about the frame not lining up or other problem that can get a new builder in trouble.
> That being said I had to cut out for the motor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Already have a motor for it, so we'll see how that works.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to get the inners made and finished so I could close it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> #4 over and out


Where do I get the plans for the 32 hot rod chevy


----------



## htl

*32 Hot Rod Chevy Coupe*

Worked on the radiator and front fenders.


















Added a smaller bearing to my flush cuter bit.
Adds just enough lip to get er done.




































Then on to the front fenders.



























#4 over and out


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *32 Hot Rod Chevy Coupe*
> 
> Worked on the radiator and front fenders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added a smaller bearing to my flush cuter bit.
> Adds just enough lip to get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the front fenders.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #4 over and out


Thank you Bruce… This will definitely help me… Cheers


----------



## FrenchGoattoys

htl said:


> *32 Hot Rod Chevy Coupe*
> 
> Worked on the radiator and front fenders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added a smaller bearing to my flush cuter bit.
> Adds just enough lip to get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the front fenders.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #4 over and out


Is that a maple walnut combo?


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *32 Hot Rod Chevy Coupe*
> 
> Worked on the radiator and front fenders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added a smaller bearing to my flush cuter bit.
> Adds just enough lip to get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the front fenders.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> #4 over and out


Not really sure I think it's fir [fairly soft but has nice grain] and cherry.
Just scrap lumber I got off the shelf the right width.
When I'm done with this project the fir will be all used up and out of the way, as I have had it around and just never used it, but it's gone now. LOL
I have a friend with a cabinet shop and if I can get there in time can save the scraps from the trash pile, so never know what I'll get.


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *32 Hot Rod Chevy Coupe*
> 
> Worked on the radiator and front fenders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added a smaller bearing to my flush cuter bit.
> Adds just enough lip to get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the front fenders.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> #4 over and out


Amazing.


----------



## htl

*32 Hot Rod Chevy Coupe Fenders & radiator installed*

This fir sure make sanding quick but the dings it gets are a pain!










Going to have some really wide tires on the back so needed to cut some more out.
These quality hole saws make quick,clean work of it with very little sanding a big plus in my book..









Then need to figure how the radiator will fit in, really took my time with this as any part of it buggered up would mean tons a redoes. :-[




































































































It's coming together now.
#4 over and out.


----------



## Redoak49

htl said:


> *32 Hot Rod Chevy Coupe Fenders & radiator installed*
> 
> This fir sure make sanding quick but the dings it gets are a pain!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to have some really wide tires on the back so needed to cut some more out.
> These quality hole saws make quick,clean work of it with very little sanding a big plus in my book..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then need to figure how the radiator will fit in, really took my time with this as any part of it buggered up would mean tons a redoes. :-[
> 
> 
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> 
> It's coming together now.
> #4 over and out.


Amazing fenders…absolutely amazing!!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *32 Hot Rod Chevy Coupe Fenders & radiator installed*
> 
> This fir sure make sanding quick but the dings it gets are a pain!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to have some really wide tires on the back so needed to cut some more out.
> These quality hole saws make quick,clean work of it with very little sanding a big plus in my book..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then need to figure how the radiator will fit in, really took my time with this as any part of it buggered up would mean tons a redoes. :-[
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> It's coming together now.
> #4 over and out.


Redoak I'm afraid they turned out a lot wider than they should have.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *32 Hot Rod Chevy Coupe Fenders & radiator installed*
> 
> This fir sure make sanding quick but the dings it gets are a pain!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to have some really wide tires on the back so needed to cut some more out.
> These quality hole saws make quick,clean work of it with very little sanding a big plus in my book..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then need to figure how the radiator will fit in, really took my time with this as any part of it buggered up would mean tons a redoes. :-[
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> It's coming together now.
> #4 over and out.


awesome fenders #4 they are perfect :<))) what wood is this ?


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *32 Hot Rod Chevy Coupe Fenders & radiator installed*
> 
> This fir sure make sanding quick but the dings it gets are a pain!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to have some really wide tires on the back so needed to cut some more out.
> These quality hole saws make quick,clean work of it with very little sanding a big plus in my book..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then need to figure how the radiator will fit in, really took my time with this as any part of it buggered up would mean tons a redoes. :-[
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> It's coming together now.
> #4 over and out.


Dandy job you are doing on the Coupe.


----------



## hookfoot

htl said:


> *32 Hot Rod Chevy Coupe Fenders & radiator installed*
> 
> This fir sure make sanding quick but the dings it gets are a pain!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to have some really wide tires on the back so needed to cut some more out.
> These quality hole saws make quick,clean work of it with very little sanding a big plus in my book..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then need to figure how the radiator will fit in, really took my time with this as any part of it buggered up would mean tons a redoes. :-[
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> It's coming together now.
> #4 over and out.


Beautiful work. Love the radiator.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *32 Hot Rod Chevy Coupe Fenders & radiator installed*
> 
> This fir sure make sanding quick but the dings it gets are a pain!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to have some really wide tires on the back so needed to cut some more out.
> These quality hole saws make quick,clean work of it with very little sanding a big plus in my book..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then need to figure how the radiator will fit in, really took my time with this as any part of it buggered up would mean tons a redoes. :-[
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> It's coming together now.
> #4 over and out.


Thanks all for coming along for the ride!!!


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *32 Hot Rod Chevy Coupe Fenders & radiator installed*
> 
> This fir sure make sanding quick but the dings it gets are a pain!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to have some really wide tires on the back so needed to cut some more out.
> These quality hole saws make quick,clean work of it with very little sanding a big plus in my book..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then need to figure how the radiator will fit in, really took my time with this as any part of it buggered up would mean tons a redoes. :-[
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> It's coming together now.
> #4 over and out.





> Thanks all for coming along for the ride!!!
> 
> - htl


I wouldn't have missed it, thank you Bruce!


----------



## htl

*32 Hot Rod Chevy Coupe wheels*

Just about there.
Played with some wheels and had forgotten but all ready had some rims made up, *thank you very much for small favors.*
Just a quick simple set a tires filled in between the wheel wells with a running board and some touch up sanding.
Still want to make some head lights and we're just about there.


















Using left over scrap fir for the wheels makes it all match up but couldn't try for a very fancy wheel tread the wood is way to soft.


----------



## Budster

htl said:


> *32 Hot Rod Chevy Coupe wheels*
> 
> Just about there.
> Played with some wheels and had forgotten but all ready had some rims made up, *thank you very much for small favors.*
> Just a quick simple set a tires filled in between the wheel wells with a running board and some touch up sanding.
> Still want to make some head lights and we're just about there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using left over scrap fir for the wheels makes it all match up but couldn't try for a very fancy wheel tread the wood is way to soft.


WOW, that's looking top-notch. Can't wait to see it done.


----------



## doubleDD

htl said:


> *32 Hot Rod Chevy Coupe wheels*
> 
> Just about there.
> Played with some wheels and had forgotten but all ready had some rims made up, *thank you very much for small favors.*
> Just a quick simple set a tires filled in between the wheel wells with a running board and some touch up sanding.
> Still want to make some head lights and we're just about there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using left over scrap fir for the wheels makes it all match up but couldn't try for a very fancy wheel tread the wood is way to soft.


The wheels look great. The tires have better threads than my car.


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *32 Hot Rod Chevy Coupe wheels*
> 
> Just about there.
> Played with some wheels and had forgotten but all ready had some rims made up, *thank you very much for small favors.*
> Just a quick simple set a tires filled in between the wheel wells with a running board and some touch up sanding.
> Still want to make some head lights and we're just about there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using left over scrap fir for the wheels makes it all match up but couldn't try for a very fancy wheel tread the wood is way to soft.


Looks great!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *32 Hot Rod Chevy Coupe wheels*
> 
> Just about there.
> Played with some wheels and had forgotten but all ready had some rims made up, *thank you very much for small favors.*
> Just a quick simple set a tires filled in between the wheel wells with a running board and some touch up sanding.
> Still want to make some head lights and we're just about there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using left over scrap fir for the wheels makes it all match up but couldn't try for a very fancy wheel tread the wood is way to soft.


doubleDD come to think about it they better than the one on my truck too!!! LOL


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *32 Hot Rod Chevy Coupe wheels*
> 
> Just about there.
> Played with some wheels and had forgotten but all ready had some rims made up, *thank you very much for small favors.*
> Just a quick simple set a tires filled in between the wheel wells with a running board and some touch up sanding.
> Still want to make some head lights and we're just about there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using left over scrap fir for the wheels makes it all match up but couldn't try for a very fancy wheel tread the wood is way to soft.


That's for sure one mean looking hot rod you've made Bruce, love it…

Top Marks AGAIN sir…


----------



## htl

*Scratch build Steam Train*

This will be a scratch built Steam train in the style of the 1860's or there about.
Something like this.









Here's where I got to today.








I have three partial days in it, one of those spit and sputter builds.

I have the plans for both Toys and Joys trains but wanted it to have a longer look to the boiler.
I have built both the wood and coal T&J's Trains.
Started with the frame.








The back is 3/4" and went back and thinned the front part down to 1/2", I used dowels to hold the parts together and will add a lot a strength to it.

Don't faint but I used the Shop Smith's lathe tools to build these parts. lol






















































Back in the 1980's I had a one man shop and built many house and restaurant cabinets.
I used very simple tools a Sears RA saw and table saw and my SS was used for my drill press and any disk sanding that came along. 
But what I want to show is how I did my face frames back then and what I used today for the train frame.

I have a *Dowel Crafter * doweling jig and it make quick work of doweling for face frames and fast quick doors.

First you mark the center of the face of the two boards.
















Mark one board as x and the other as o.

In this picture I'm going to drill the x board first.
Line the board center up with the dowelers center and drill the two holes.
Then flip the doweler around and drill the o board with two holes.





















































The top of the boards are flush with each other, If the board were of different thicknesses would make no difference they would be flush.










Using the kreg system works the same way but uses screws to hold it all together but it hadn't come out yet when I was building cabinets.

The Dowel Crafter isn't made any more but can be found on Ebay for around $25. 
You can also build your own jig of wood that will work just fine.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Scratch build Steam Train*
> 
> This will be a scratch built Steam train in the style of the 1860's or there about.
> Something like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's where I got to today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have three partial days in it, one of those spit and sputter builds.
> 
> I have the plans for both Toys and Joys trains but wanted it to have a longer look to the boiler.
> I have built both the wood and coal T&J's Trains.
> Started with the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back is 3/4" and went back and thinned the front part down to 1/2", I used dowels to hold the parts together and will add a lot a strength to it.
> 
> Don't faint but I used the Shop Smith's lathe tools to build these parts. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back in the 1980's I had a one man shop and built many house and restaurant cabinets.
> I used very simple tools a Sears RA saw and table saw and my SS was used for my drill press and any disk sanding that came along.
> But what I want to show is how I did my face frames back then and what I used today for the train frame.
> 
> I have a *Dowel Crafter * doweling jig and it make quick work of doweling for face frames and fast quick doors.
> 
> First you mark the center of the face of the two boards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark one board as x and the other as o.
> 
> In this picture I'm going to drill the x board first.
> Line the board center up with the dowelers center and drill the two holes.
> Then flip the doweler around and drill the o board with two holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top of the boards are flush with each other, If the board were of different thicknesses would make no difference they would be flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the kreg system works the same way but uses screws to hold it all together but it hadn't come out yet when I was building cabinets.
> 
> The Dowel Crafter isn't made any more but can be found on Ebay for around $25.
> You can also build your own jig of wood that will work just fine.


i like looking at trains better then building them so i will be watching this one closely :<))))


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Scratch build Steam Train*
> 
> This will be a scratch built Steam train in the style of the 1860's or there about.
> Something like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's where I got to today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have three partial days in it, one of those spit and sputter builds.
> 
> I have the plans for both Toys and Joys trains but wanted it to have a longer look to the boiler.
> I have built both the wood and coal T&J's Trains.
> Started with the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back is 3/4" and went back and thinned the front part down to 1/2", I used dowels to hold the parts together and will add a lot a strength to it.
> 
> Don't faint but I used the Shop Smith's lathe tools to build these parts. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back in the 1980's I had a one man shop and built many house and restaurant cabinets.
> I used very simple tools a Sears RA saw and table saw and my SS was used for my drill press and any disk sanding that came along.
> But what I want to show is how I did my face frames back then and what I used today for the train frame.
> 
> I have a *Dowel Crafter * doweling jig and it make quick work of doweling for face frames and fast quick doors.
> 
> First you mark the center of the face of the two boards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark one board as x and the other as o.
> 
> In this picture I'm going to drill the x board first.
> Line the board center up with the dowelers center and drill the two holes.
> Then flip the doweler around and drill the o board with two holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top of the boards are flush with each other, If the board were of different thicknesses would make no difference they would be flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the kreg system works the same way but uses screws to hold it all together but it hadn't come out yet when I was building cabinets.
> 
> The Dowel Crafter isn't made any more but can be found on Ebay for around $25.
> You can also build your own jig of wood that will work just fine.


Tony mine will be a much simpler one that the beauty you built, for sure.


----------



## hunter71

htl said:


> *Scratch build Steam Train*
> 
> This will be a scratch built Steam train in the style of the 1860's or there about.
> Something like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's where I got to today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have three partial days in it, one of those spit and sputter builds.
> 
> I have the plans for both Toys and Joys trains but wanted it to have a longer look to the boiler.
> I have built both the wood and coal T&J's Trains.
> Started with the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back is 3/4" and went back and thinned the front part down to 1/2", I used dowels to hold the parts together and will add a lot a strength to it.
> 
> Don't faint but I used the Shop Smith's lathe tools to build these parts. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back in the 1980's I had a one man shop and built many house and restaurant cabinets.
> I used very simple tools a Sears RA saw and table saw and my SS was used for my drill press and any disk sanding that came along.
> But what I want to show is how I did my face frames back then and what I used today for the train frame.
> 
> I have a *Dowel Crafter * doweling jig and it make quick work of doweling for face frames and fast quick doors.
> 
> First you mark the center of the face of the two boards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark one board as x and the other as o.
> 
> In this picture I'm going to drill the x board first.
> Line the board center up with the dowelers center and drill the two holes.
> Then flip the doweler around and drill the o board with two holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top of the boards are flush with each other, If the board were of different thicknesses would make no difference they would be flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the kreg system works the same way but uses screws to hold it all together but it hadn't come out yet when I was building cabinets.
> 
> The Dowel Crafter isn't made any more but can be found on Ebay for around $25.
> You can also build your own jig of wood that will work just fine.


All I do is scratch builds anymore. Great job, man.


----------



## FrenchGoattoys

htl said:


> *Scratch build Steam Train*
> 
> This will be a scratch built Steam train in the style of the 1860's or there about.
> Something like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's where I got to today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have three partial days in it, one of those spit and sputter builds.
> 
> I have the plans for both Toys and Joys trains but wanted it to have a longer look to the boiler.
> I have built both the wood and coal T&J's Trains.
> Started with the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back is 3/4" and went back and thinned the front part down to 1/2", I used dowels to hold the parts together and will add a lot a strength to it.
> 
> Don't faint but I used the Shop Smith's lathe tools to build these parts. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back in the 1980's I had a one man shop and built many house and restaurant cabinets.
> I used very simple tools a Sears RA saw and table saw and my SS was used for my drill press and any disk sanding that came along.
> But what I want to show is how I did my face frames back then and what I used today for the train frame.
> 
> I have a *Dowel Crafter * doweling jig and it make quick work of doweling for face frames and fast quick doors.
> 
> First you mark the center of the face of the two boards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark one board as x and the other as o.
> 
> In this picture I'm going to drill the x board first.
> Line the board center up with the dowelers center and drill the two holes.
> Then flip the doweler around and drill the o board with two holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top of the boards are flush with each other, If the board were of different thicknesses would make no difference they would be flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the kreg system works the same way but uses screws to hold it all together but it hadn't come out yet when I was building cabinets.
> 
> The Dowel Crafter isn't made any more but can be found on Ebay for around $25.
> You can also build your own jig of wood that will work just fine.


If I remember correctly, I stole a bunch form both you and Tony to build my train. Did you Lathe all the cylinder type parts or used dowels? It looks great.


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Scratch build Steam Train*
> 
> This will be a scratch built Steam train in the style of the 1860's or there about.
> Something like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's where I got to today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have three partial days in it, one of those spit and sputter builds.
> 
> I have the plans for both Toys and Joys trains but wanted it to have a longer look to the boiler.
> I have built both the wood and coal T&J's Trains.
> Started with the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back is 3/4" and went back and thinned the front part down to 1/2", I used dowels to hold the parts together and will add a lot a strength to it.
> 
> Don't faint but I used the Shop Smith's lathe tools to build these parts. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back in the 1980's I had a one man shop and built many house and restaurant cabinets.
> I used very simple tools a Sears RA saw and table saw and my SS was used for my drill press and any disk sanding that came along.
> But what I want to show is how I did my face frames back then and what I used today for the train frame.
> 
> I have a *Dowel Crafter * doweling jig and it make quick work of doweling for face frames and fast quick doors.
> 
> First you mark the center of the face of the two boards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark one board as x and the other as o.
> 
> In this picture I'm going to drill the x board first.
> Line the board center up with the dowelers center and drill the two holes.
> Then flip the doweler around and drill the o board with two holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top of the boards are flush with each other, If the board were of different thicknesses would make no difference they would be flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the kreg system works the same way but uses screws to hold it all together but it hadn't come out yet when I was building cabinets.
> 
> The Dowel Crafter isn't made any more but can be found on Ebay for around $25.
> You can also build your own jig of wood that will work just fine.


Looking Good, keep us posted.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Scratch build Steam Train*
> 
> This will be a scratch built Steam train in the style of the 1860's or there about.
> Something like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's where I got to today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have three partial days in it, one of those spit and sputter builds.
> 
> I have the plans for both Toys and Joys trains but wanted it to have a longer look to the boiler.
> I have built both the wood and coal T&J's Trains.
> Started with the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back is 3/4" and went back and thinned the front part down to 1/2", I used dowels to hold the parts together and will add a lot a strength to it.
> 
> Don't faint but I used the Shop Smith's lathe tools to build these parts. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back in the 1980's I had a one man shop and built many house and restaurant cabinets.
> I used very simple tools a Sears RA saw and table saw and my SS was used for my drill press and any disk sanding that came along.
> But what I want to show is how I did my face frames back then and what I used today for the train frame.
> 
> I have a *Dowel Crafter * doweling jig and it make quick work of doweling for face frames and fast quick doors.
> 
> First you mark the center of the face of the two boards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark one board as x and the other as o.
> 
> In this picture I'm going to drill the x board first.
> Line the board center up with the dowelers center and drill the two holes.
> Then flip the doweler around and drill the o board with two holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top of the boards are flush with each other, If the board were of different thicknesses would make no difference they would be flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the kreg system works the same way but uses screws to hold it all together but it hadn't come out yet when I was building cabinets.
> 
> The Dowel Crafter isn't made any more but can be found on Ebay for around $25.
> You can also build your own jig of wood that will work just fine.


Frenchtoys I have a bunch a Hobby Lobby bags of parts around so use them for the small turnings when I can.
It's great when we can check out how others built things so we can add them to our projects to make it just right.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Scratch build Steam Train*
> 
> This will be a scratch built Steam train in the style of the 1860's or there about.
> Something like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's where I got to today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have three partial days in it, one of those spit and sputter builds.
> 
> I have the plans for both Toys and Joys trains but wanted it to have a longer look to the boiler.
> I have built both the wood and coal T&J's Trains.
> Started with the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back is 3/4" and went back and thinned the front part down to 1/2", I used dowels to hold the parts together and will add a lot a strength to it.
> 
> Don't faint but I used the Shop Smith's lathe tools to build these parts. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back in the 1980's I had a one man shop and built many house and restaurant cabinets.
> I used very simple tools a Sears RA saw and table saw and my SS was used for my drill press and any disk sanding that came along.
> But what I want to show is how I did my face frames back then and what I used today for the train frame.
> 
> I have a *Dowel Crafter * doweling jig and it make quick work of doweling for face frames and fast quick doors.
> 
> First you mark the center of the face of the two boards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark one board as x and the other as o.
> 
> In this picture I'm going to drill the x board first.
> Line the board center up with the dowelers center and drill the two holes.
> Then flip the doweler around and drill the o board with two holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top of the boards are flush with each other, If the board were of different thicknesses would make no difference they would be flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the kreg system works the same way but uses screws to hold it all together but it hadn't come out yet when I was building cabinets.
> 
> The Dowel Crafter isn't made any more but can be found on Ebay for around $25.
> You can also build your own jig of wood that will work just fine.


Looking good already Bruce with another first class tutorial, thank you


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Scratch build Steam Train*
> 
> This will be a scratch built Steam train in the style of the 1860's or there about.
> Something like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's where I got to today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have three partial days in it, one of those spit and sputter builds.
> 
> I have the plans for both Toys and Joys trains but wanted it to have a longer look to the boiler.
> I have built both the wood and coal T&J's Trains.
> Started with the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back is 3/4" and went back and thinned the front part down to 1/2", I used dowels to hold the parts together and will add a lot a strength to it.
> 
> Don't faint but I used the Shop Smith's lathe tools to build these parts. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back in the 1980's I had a one man shop and built many house and restaurant cabinets.
> I used very simple tools a Sears RA saw and table saw and my SS was used for my drill press and any disk sanding that came along.
> But what I want to show is how I did my face frames back then and what I used today for the train frame.
> 
> I have a *Dowel Crafter * doweling jig and it make quick work of doweling for face frames and fast quick doors.
> 
> First you mark the center of the face of the two boards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark one board as x and the other as o.
> 
> In this picture I'm going to drill the x board first.
> Line the board center up with the dowelers center and drill the two holes.
> Then flip the doweler around and drill the o board with two holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top of the boards are flush with each other, If the board were of different thicknesses would make no difference they would be flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the kreg system works the same way but uses screws to hold it all together but it hadn't come out yet when I was building cabinets.
> 
> The Dowel Crafter isn't made any more but can be found on Ebay for around $25.
> You can also build your own jig of wood that will work just fine.


I'm traveling and can't comment this.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Scratch build Steam Train*
> 
> This will be a scratch built Steam train in the style of the 1860's or there about.
> Something like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's where I got to today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have three partial days in it, one of those spit and sputter builds.
> 
> I have the plans for both Toys and Joys trains but wanted it to have a longer look to the boiler.
> I have built both the wood and coal T&J's Trains.
> Started with the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back is 3/4" and went back and thinned the front part down to 1/2", I used dowels to hold the parts together and will add a lot a strength to it.
> 
> Don't faint but I used the Shop Smith's lathe tools to build these parts. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back in the 1980's I had a one man shop and built many house and restaurant cabinets.
> I used very simple tools a Sears RA saw and table saw and my SS was used for my drill press and any disk sanding that came along.
> But what I want to show is how I did my face frames back then and what I used today for the train frame.
> 
> I have a *Dowel Crafter * doweling jig and it make quick work of doweling for face frames and fast quick doors.
> 
> First you mark the center of the face of the two boards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark one board as x and the other as o.
> 
> In this picture I'm going to drill the x board first.
> Line the board center up with the dowelers center and drill the two holes.
> Then flip the doweler around and drill the o board with two holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top of the boards are flush with each other, If the board were of different thicknesses would make no difference they would be flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the kreg system works the same way but uses screws to hold it all together but it hadn't come out yet when I was building cabinets.
> 
> The Dowel Crafter isn't made any more but can be found on Ebay for around $25.
> You can also build your own jig of wood that will work just fine.





> I m traveling and can t comment this.
> 
> - Dutchy


Love it Jan!


----------



## doubleDD

htl said:


> *Scratch build Steam Train*
> 
> This will be a scratch built Steam train in the style of the 1860's or there about.
> Something like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's where I got to today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have three partial days in it, one of those spit and sputter builds.
> 
> I have the plans for both Toys and Joys trains but wanted it to have a longer look to the boiler.
> I have built both the wood and coal T&J's Trains.
> Started with the frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back is 3/4" and went back and thinned the front part down to 1/2", I used dowels to hold the parts together and will add a lot a strength to it.
> 
> Don't faint but I used the Shop Smith's lathe tools to build these parts. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back in the 1980's I had a one man shop and built many house and restaurant cabinets.
> I used very simple tools a Sears RA saw and table saw and my SS was used for my drill press and any disk sanding that came along.
> But what I want to show is how I did my face frames back then and what I used today for the train frame.
> 
> I have a *Dowel Crafter * doweling jig and it make quick work of doweling for face frames and fast quick doors.
> 
> First you mark the center of the face of the two boards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark one board as x and the other as o.
> 
> In this picture I'm going to drill the x board first.
> Line the board center up with the dowelers center and drill the two holes.
> Then flip the doweler around and drill the o board with two holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top of the boards are flush with each other, If the board were of different thicknesses would make no difference they would be flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the kreg system works the same way but uses screws to hold it all together but it hadn't come out yet when I was building cabinets.
> 
> The Dowel Crafter isn't made any more but can be found on Ebay for around $25.
> You can also build your own jig of wood that will work just fine.


This one looks like it will be a masterpiece. It's amazing how you follow such detail work. Good luck with it.


----------



## htl

*Scratch build Steam Train wheels *

Got a little more done.


















Found out my tread making jig also does a pretty good job at making spoke wheels, sure saves a lot a time I would have to be drawing all the points needed to drill. Just add a blank and drill, once the jig is centered to the bit.









The indexer is set up for cutting 36 treads but as you can see I have it marked for every other hole or as I did this time every third hole.










As you can see the backer plate gets pretty chewed up when making the different sizes and angled treads.










Then I glued the parts to some card board to keep every thing lined up and glued in the spokes.




































I forgot to mention I added a walk way before I started the wheels.









I really have fun adding all the dodads inside the cab.









Then I wasn't going to do it but added the wheel Guides to the bottom of the wheels. Sorry don't know what you call them, but I built them!!! lol




































Up next will be the cow catcher, I always have fun figuring it out.
#4 over and out


----------



## SouthavenToyMaker

htl said:


> *Scratch build Steam Train wheels *
> 
> Got a little more done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found out my tread making jig also does a pretty good job at making spoke wheels, sure saves a lot a time I would have to be drawing all the points needed to drill. Just add a blank and drill, once the jig is centered to the bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The indexer is set up for cutting 36 treads but as you can see I have it marked for every other hole or as I did this time every third hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see the backer plate gets pretty chewed up when making the different sizes and angled treads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I glued the parts to some card board to keep every thing lined up and glued in the spokes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I forgot to mention I added a walk way before I started the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really have fun adding all the dodads inside the cab.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I wasn't going to do it but added the wheel Guides to the bottom of the wheels. Sorry don't know what you call them, but I built them!!! lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up next will be the cow catcher, I always have fun figuring it out.
> #4 over and out


Nice work, never cease to amaze me with your talent


----------



## hookfoot

htl said:


> *Scratch build Steam Train wheels *
> 
> Got a little more done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found out my tread making jig also does a pretty good job at making spoke wheels, sure saves a lot a time I would have to be drawing all the points needed to drill. Just add a blank and drill, once the jig is centered to the bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The indexer is set up for cutting 36 treads but as you can see I have it marked for every other hole or as I did this time every third hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see the backer plate gets pretty chewed up when making the different sizes and angled treads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I glued the parts to some card board to keep every thing lined up and glued in the spokes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I forgot to mention I added a walk way before I started the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really have fun adding all the dodads inside the cab.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I wasn't going to do it but added the wheel Guides to the bottom of the wheels. Sorry don't know what you call them, but I built them!!! lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up next will be the cow catcher, I always have fun figuring it out.
> #4 over and out


Love it.


----------



## hunter71

htl said:


> *Scratch build Steam Train wheels *
> 
> Got a little more done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found out my tread making jig also does a pretty good job at making spoke wheels, sure saves a lot a time I would have to be drawing all the points needed to drill. Just add a blank and drill, once the jig is centered to the bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The indexer is set up for cutting 36 treads but as you can see I have it marked for every other hole or as I did this time every third hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see the backer plate gets pretty chewed up when making the different sizes and angled treads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I glued the parts to some card board to keep every thing lined up and glued in the spokes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I forgot to mention I added a walk way before I started the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really have fun adding all the dodads inside the cab.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I wasn't going to do it but added the wheel Guides to the bottom of the wheels. Sorry don't know what you call them, but I built them!!! lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up next will be the cow catcher, I always have fun figuring it out.
> #4 over and out


great work man!!!


----------



## FrenchGoattoys

htl said:


> *Scratch build Steam Train wheels *
> 
> Got a little more done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found out my tread making jig also does a pretty good job at making spoke wheels, sure saves a lot a time I would have to be drawing all the points needed to drill. Just add a blank and drill, once the jig is centered to the bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The indexer is set up for cutting 36 treads but as you can see I have it marked for every other hole or as I did this time every third hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see the backer plate gets pretty chewed up when making the different sizes and angled treads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I glued the parts to some card board to keep every thing lined up and glued in the spokes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I forgot to mention I added a walk way before I started the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really have fun adding all the dodads inside the cab.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I wasn't going to do it but added the wheel Guides to the bottom of the wheels. Sorry don't know what you call them, but I built them!!! lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up next will be the cow catcher, I always have fun figuring it out.
> #4 over and out


Nice, real nice.


----------



## FrenchGoattoys

htl said:


> *Scratch build Steam Train wheels *
> 
> Got a little more done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found out my tread making jig also does a pretty good job at making spoke wheels, sure saves a lot a time I would have to be drawing all the points needed to drill. Just add a blank and drill, once the jig is centered to the bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The indexer is set up for cutting 36 treads but as you can see I have it marked for every other hole or as I did this time every third hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see the backer plate gets pretty chewed up when making the different sizes and angled treads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I glued the parts to some card board to keep every thing lined up and glued in the spokes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I forgot to mention I added a walk way before I started the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really have fun adding all the dodads inside the cab.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I wasn't going to do it but added the wheel Guides to the bottom of the wheels. Sorry don't know what you call them, but I built them!!! lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up next will be the cow catcher, I always have fun figuring it out.
> #4 over and out


Nice, real nice.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Scratch build Steam Train wheels *
> 
> Got a little more done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found out my tread making jig also does a pretty good job at making spoke wheels, sure saves a lot a time I would have to be drawing all the points needed to drill. Just add a blank and drill, once the jig is centered to the bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The indexer is set up for cutting 36 treads but as you can see I have it marked for every other hole or as I did this time every third hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see the backer plate gets pretty chewed up when making the different sizes and angled treads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I glued the parts to some card board to keep every thing lined up and glued in the spokes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I forgot to mention I added a walk way before I started the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really have fun adding all the dodads inside the cab.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I wasn't going to do it but added the wheel Guides to the bottom of the wheels. Sorry don't know what you call them, but I built them!!! lol
> 
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> 
> Up next will be the cow catcher, I always have fun figuring it out.
> #4 over and out


G'day Bruce, You have an amazing eye for detail without compromise for a quality model. Well done sir.


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## Underdog

htl said:


> *Scratch build Steam Train wheels *
> 
> Got a little more done.
> 
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> 
> Found out my tread making jig also does a pretty good job at making spoke wheels, sure saves a lot a time I would have to be drawing all the points needed to drill. Just add a blank and drill, once the jig is centered to the bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The indexer is set up for cutting 36 treads but as you can see I have it marked for every other hole or as I did this time every third hole.
> 
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> 
> As you can see the backer plate gets pretty chewed up when making the different sizes and angled treads.
> 
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> 
> Then I glued the parts to some card board to keep every thing lined up and glued in the spokes.
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> I forgot to mention I added a walk way before I started the wheels.
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> 
> I really have fun adding all the dodads inside the cab.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Then I wasn't going to do it but added the wheel Guides to the bottom of the wheels. Sorry don't know what you call them, but I built them!!! lol
> 
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> 
> Up next will be the cow catcher, I always have fun figuring it out.
> #4 over and out


So cool. Love all the extra detail you're putting into it.


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Scratch build Steam Train wheels *
> 
> Got a little more done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found out my tread making jig also does a pretty good job at making spoke wheels, sure saves a lot a time I would have to be drawing all the points needed to drill. Just add a blank and drill, once the jig is centered to the bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The indexer is set up for cutting 36 treads but as you can see I have it marked for every other hole or as I did this time every third hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see the backer plate gets pretty chewed up when making the different sizes and angled treads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I glued the parts to some card board to keep every thing lined up and glued in the spokes.
> 
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> 
> I forgot to mention I added a walk way before I started the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really have fun adding all the dodads inside the cab.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I wasn't going to do it but added the wheel Guides to the bottom of the wheels. Sorry don't know what you call them, but I built them!!! lol
> 
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> 
> Up next will be the cow catcher, I always have fun figuring it out.
> #4 over and out


Looking Good I like the detail.


----------



## htl

*Scratch build Steam Train Cow Catcher*

Got the front wheels made up and mounted but will still need some fine tuning like the rest of the train.









These scratch built cow catchers were very interesting to make.









I made two one with more slats and *please vote on which you think look better with the train*.
If I ever build another train I'll be so happy I made this extra set. lol














































Figuring out how to cut the angles was a real pain.
If I remember right the toys and joys plans gave you what you needed for the wood burner train but not so much for the coal train even though they were the same catcher.



















Here's where you can see the two different catchers.
I know they're not that much different, that's why it's so hard for me to choice.


















This train is based on Norm Marshall's toy train, but I went bigger and added more details.


















I have always liked his plans his simple way of building, may be because it was the first toy making book I bought why back in 1983 or so, had just gotten my new Shop Smith and had a small 10×10 shop where I was building my first toys in my own shop.

That's all I had the gumption for today so thanks for looking in and have fun modeling!!!


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## sras

htl said:


> *Scratch build Steam Train Cow Catcher*
> 
> Got the front wheels made up and mounted but will still need some fine tuning like the rest of the train.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These scratch built cow catchers were very interesting to make.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made two one with more slats and *please vote on which you think look better with the train*.
> If I ever build another train I'll be so happy I made this extra set. lol
> 
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> 
> 
> Figuring out how to cut the angles was a real pain.
> If I remember right the toys and joys plans gave you what you needed for the wood burner train but not so much for the coal train even though they were the same catcher.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's where you can see the two different catchers.
> I know they're not that much different, that's why it's so hard for me to choice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This train is based on Norm Marshall's toy train, but I went bigger and added more details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have always liked his plans his simple way of building, may be because it was the first toy making book I bought why back in 1983 or so, had just gotten my new Shop Smith and had a small 10×10 shop where I was building my first toys in my own shop.
> 
> That's all I had the gumption for today so thanks for looking in and have fun modeling!!!


1 vote for more slats.

I got my ShopSmith in 1982…


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## htl

htl said:


> *Scratch build Steam Train Cow Catcher*
> 
> Got the front wheels made up and mounted but will still need some fine tuning like the rest of the train.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These scratch built cow catchers were very interesting to make.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made two one with more slats and *please vote on which you think look better with the train*.
> If I ever build another train I'll be so happy I made this extra set. lol
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Figuring out how to cut the angles was a real pain.
> If I remember right the toys and joys plans gave you what you needed for the wood burner train but not so much for the coal train even though they were the same catcher.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's where you can see the two different catchers.
> I know they're not that much different, that's why it's so hard for me to choice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This train is based on Norm Marshall's toy train, but I went bigger and added more details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have always liked his plans his simple way of building, may be because it was the first toy making book I bought why back in 1983 or so, had just gotten my new Shop Smith and had a small 10×10 shop where I was building my first toys in my own shop.
> 
> That's all I had the gumption for today so thanks for looking in and have fun modeling!!!


Sorry sras but I done climbed that mountain and ain't going over it again. LOL
Or do you mean the one with the most slats? LOL


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## Budster

htl said:


> *Scratch build Steam Train Cow Catcher*
> 
> Got the front wheels made up and mounted but will still need some fine tuning like the rest of the train.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These scratch built cow catchers were very interesting to make.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made two one with more slats and *please vote on which you think look better with the train*.
> If I ever build another train I'll be so happy I made this extra set. lol
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Figuring out how to cut the angles was a real pain.
> If I remember right the toys and joys plans gave you what you needed for the wood burner train but not so much for the coal train even though they were the same catcher.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's where you can see the two different catchers.
> I know they're not that much different, that's why it's so hard for me to choice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This train is based on Norm Marshall's toy train, but I went bigger and added more details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have always liked his plans his simple way of building, may be because it was the first toy making book I bought why back in 1983 or so, had just gotten my new Shop Smith and had a small 10×10 shop where I was building my first toys in my own shop.
> 
> That's all I had the gumption for today so thanks for looking in and have fun modeling!!!


Very nice sir.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Scratch build Steam Train Cow Catcher*
> 
> Got the front wheels made up and mounted but will still need some fine tuning like the rest of the train.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These scratch built cow catchers were very interesting to make.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made two one with more slats and *please vote on which you think look better with the train*.
> If I ever build another train I'll be so happy I made this extra set. lol
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Figuring out how to cut the angles was a real pain.
> If I remember right the toys and joys plans gave you what you needed for the wood burner train but not so much for the coal train even though they were the same catcher.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's where you can see the two different catchers.
> I know they're not that much different, that's why it's so hard for me to choice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This train is based on Norm Marshall's toy train, but I went bigger and added more details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have always liked his plans his simple way of building, may be because it was the first toy making book I bought why back in 1983 or so, had just gotten my new Shop Smith and had a small 10×10 shop where I was building my first toys in my own shop.
> 
> That's all I had the gumption for today so thanks for looking in and have fun modeling!!!


I like the simple clever way you did the "cow catchers" Bruce; well done sir!


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## Redoak49

htl said:


> *Scratch build Steam Train Cow Catcher*
> 
> Got the front wheels made up and mounted but will still need some fine tuning like the rest of the train.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These scratch built cow catchers were very interesting to make.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made two one with more slats and *please vote on which you think look better with the train*.
> If I ever build another train I'll be so happy I made this extra set. lol
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Figuring out how to cut the angles was a real pain.
> If I remember right the toys and joys plans gave you what you needed for the wood burner train but not so much for the coal train even though they were the same catcher.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's where you can see the two different catchers.
> I know they're not that much different, that's why it's so hard for me to choice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This train is based on Norm Marshall's toy train, but I went bigger and added more details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have always liked his plans his simple way of building, may be because it was the first toy making book I bought why back in 1983 or so, had just gotten my new Shop Smith and had a small 10×10 shop where I was building my first toys in my own shop.
> 
> That's all I had the gumption for today so thanks for looking in and have fun modeling!!!


Great model and well done blog. I enjoy seeing how you make the parts.


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## jeffswildwood

htl said:


> *Scratch build Steam Train Cow Catcher*
> 
> Got the front wheels made up and mounted but will still need some fine tuning like the rest of the train.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These scratch built cow catchers were very interesting to make.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made two one with more slats and *please vote on which you think look better with the train*.
> If I ever build another train I'll be so happy I made this extra set. lol
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Figuring out how to cut the angles was a real pain.
> If I remember right the toys and joys plans gave you what you needed for the wood burner train but not so much for the coal train even though they were the same catcher.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's where you can see the two different catchers.
> I know they're not that much different, that's why it's so hard for me to choice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This train is based on Norm Marshall's toy train, but I went bigger and added more details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have always liked his plans his simple way of building, may be because it was the first toy making book I bought why back in 1983 or so, had just gotten my new Shop Smith and had a small 10×10 shop where I was building my first toys in my own shop.
> 
> That's all I had the gumption for today so thanks for looking in and have fun modeling!!!


I really like it buddy. I have plans to build a train like this only placing a mail box door in the back. I will be using my own plans so I expect lots of mistakes. I may drive you crazy asking for advice!


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## sras

htl said:


> *Scratch build Steam Train Cow Catcher*
> 
> Got the front wheels made up and mounted but will still need some fine tuning like the rest of the train.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These scratch built cow catchers were very interesting to make.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made two one with more slats and *please vote on which you think look better with the train*.
> If I ever build another train I'll be so happy I made this extra set. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> Figuring out how to cut the angles was a real pain.
> If I remember right the toys and joys plans gave you what you needed for the wood burner train but not so much for the coal train even though they were the same catcher.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's where you can see the two different catchers.
> I know they're not that much different, that's why it's so hard for me to choice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This train is based on Norm Marshall's toy train, but I went bigger and added more details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have always liked his plans his simple way of building, may be because it was the first toy making book I bought why back in 1983 or so, had just gotten my new Shop Smith and had a small 10×10 shop where I was building my first toys in my own shop.
> 
> That's all I had the gumption for today so thanks for looking in and have fun modeling!!!


Yeah, I meant the one with the most slats


----------



## kiefer

htl said:


> *Scratch build Steam Train Cow Catcher*
> 
> Got the front wheels made up and mounted but will still need some fine tuning like the rest of the train.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These scratch built cow catchers were very interesting to make.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made two one with more slats and *please vote on which you think look better with the train*.
> If I ever build another train I'll be so happy I made this extra set. lol
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Figuring out how to cut the angles was a real pain.
> If I remember right the toys and joys plans gave you what you needed for the wood burner train but not so much for the coal train even though they were the same catcher.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's where you can see the two different catchers.
> I know they're not that much different, that's why it's so hard for me to choice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This train is based on Norm Marshall's toy train, but I went bigger and added more details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have always liked his plans his simple way of building, may be because it was the first toy making book I bought why back in 1983 or so, had just gotten my new Shop Smith and had a small 10×10 shop where I was building my first toys in my own shop.
> 
> That's all I had the gumption for today so thanks for looking in and have fun modeling!!!


Nice looking project .
Cowcatcher ? 
I always called it snow plow used to clear the track .


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## robscastle

htl said:


> *Scratch build Steam Train Cow Catcher*
> 
> Got the front wheels made up and mounted but will still need some fine tuning like the rest of the train.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These scratch built cow catchers were very interesting to make.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made two one with more slats and *please vote on which you think look better with the train*.
> If I ever build another train I'll be so happy I made this extra set. lol
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Figuring out how to cut the angles was a real pain.
> If I remember right the toys and joys plans gave you what you needed for the wood burner train but not so much for the coal train even though they were the same catcher.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's where you can see the two different catchers.
> I know they're not that much different, that's why it's so hard for me to choice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This train is based on Norm Marshall's toy train, but I went bigger and added more details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> I have always liked his plans his simple way of building, may be because it was the first toy making book I bought why back in 1983 or so, had just gotten my new Shop Smith and had a small 10×10 shop where I was building my first toys in my own shop.
> 
> That's all I had the gumption for today so thanks for looking in and have fun modeling!!!


Correct title and excellent work albeit a bit too fiddly for me this age.
I agree with crowie very clever construction.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Scratch build Steam Train Cow Catcher*
> 
> Got the front wheels made up and mounted but will still need some fine tuning like the rest of the train.
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> These scratch built cow catchers were very interesting to make.
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> I made two one with more slats and *please vote on which you think look better with the train*.
> If I ever build another train I'll be so happy I made this extra set. lol
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> Figuring out how to cut the angles was a real pain.
> If I remember right the toys and joys plans gave you what you needed for the wood burner train but not so much for the coal train even though they were the same catcher.
> 
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> Here's where you can see the two different catchers.
> I know they're not that much different, that's why it's so hard for me to choice.
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> This train is based on Norm Marshall's toy train, but I went bigger and added more details.
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> 
> I have always liked his plans his simple way of building, may be because it was the first toy making book I bought why back in 1983 or so, had just gotten my new Shop Smith and had a small 10×10 shop where I was building my first toys in my own shop.
> 
> That's all I had the gumption for today so thanks for looking in and have fun modeling!!!





> Correct title and excellent work albeit a bit too fiddly for me this age.
> I agree with crowie very clever construction.
> 
> - robscastle


Robscastle *you are so right, Very fiddly!!!*
The first time I tried a cow catcher it was holding the parts free hand and O what a mess, but using the grooved, holds everything in place so it all comes out uniform.


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## htl

*T REX*

Got hold of David Wakefield's toy making book, 
I bought one back in the 1980's when it first came out and 
put my new Shop Smith band saw throw the works, building his toys.
I found his book on Ebay for like $6 with shipping so hit the buy button.



































Still have to get the cams in the right places and nail everything down but it's getting there. :-]
His mouth goes up and down and he has a mean looking wobble as he rolls around.

Here's two that I built way back that have survived for 35 years.


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## Redoak49

htl said:


> *T REX*
> 
> Got hold of David Wakefield's toy making book,
> I bought one back in the 1980's when it first came out and
> put my new Shop Smith band saw throw the works, building his toys.
> I found his book on Ebay for like $6 with shipping so hit the buy button.
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> Still have to get the cams in the right places and nail everything down but it's getting there. :-]
> His mouth goes up and down and he has a mean looking wobble as he rolls around.
> 
> Here's two that I built way back that have survived for 35 years.


Looking good..some kiddo will be happy


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## crowie

htl said:


> *T REX*
> 
> Got hold of David Wakefield's toy making book,
> I bought one back in the 1980's when it first came out and
> put my new Shop Smith band saw throw the works, building his toys.
> I found his book on Ebay for like $6 with shipping so hit the buy button.
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> Still have to get the cams in the right places and nail everything down but it's getting there. :-]
> His mouth goes up and down and he has a mean looking wobble as he rolls around.
> 
> Here's two that I built way back that have survived for 35 years.


Great book Bruce. 
You do the toy plans proud.


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *T REX*
> 
> Got hold of David Wakefield's toy making book,
> I bought one back in the 1980's when it first came out and
> put my new Shop Smith band saw throw the works, building his toys.
> I found his book on Ebay for like $6 with shipping so hit the buy button.
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> Still have to get the cams in the right places and nail everything down but it's getting there. :-]
> His mouth goes up and down and he has a mean looking wobble as he rolls around.
> 
> Here's two that I built way back that have survived for 35 years.


Dandy projects, I did these for my Grandchildren back in the eighties they were a big hit. Good work!


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## Jason1974

htl said:


> *T REX*
> 
> Got hold of David Wakefield's toy making book,
> I bought one back in the 1980's when it first came out and
> put my new Shop Smith band saw throw the works, building his toys.
> I found his book on Ebay for like $6 with shipping so hit the buy button.
> 
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> Still have to get the cams in the right places and nail everything down but it's getting there. :-]
> His mouth goes up and down and he has a mean looking wobble as he rolls around.
> 
> Here's two that I built way back that have survived for 35 years.


Holy crap! Bruce, I had one of those dogie toys when I was a kid. Talk about bringing up the past. Great Job.


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## htl

*Triceratops*

Still in Dino mod so here's the start of the Triceratops.
I built one of these 30 something years ago and still have it.









Since all my dino's are much smaller than the one in the picture I thought I'd give it one more try and have a full set that match up, size wise.
This will all be done in birch as I have some 2" thick scraps.
Wouldn't take much to turn this into a hippo would it?



























The head was a ton a work with all 3d cuts.


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## Redoak49

htl said:


> *Triceratops*
> 
> Still in Dino mod so here's the start of the Triceratops.
> I built one of these 30 something years ago and still have it.
> 
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> Since all my dino's are much smaller than the one in the picture I thought I'd give it one more try and have a full set that match up, size wise.
> This will all be done in birch as I have some 2" thick scraps.
> Wouldn't take much to turn this into a hippo would it?
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> The head was a ton a work with all 3d cuts.


I like it and looks like you are enjoying it.


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Triceratops*
> 
> Still in Dino mod so here's the start of the Triceratops.
> I built one of these 30 something years ago and still have it.
> 
> 
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> 
> Since all my dino's are much smaller than the one in the picture I thought I'd give it one more try and have a full set that match up, size wise.
> This will all be done in birch as I have some 2" thick scraps.
> Wouldn't take much to turn this into a hippo would it?
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> The head was a ton a work with all 3d cuts.


*Looks Good!*


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## ToyMakingDad

htl said:


> *Triceratops*
> 
> Still in Dino mod so here's the start of the Triceratops.
> I built one of these 30 something years ago and still have it.
> 
> 
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> 
> Since all my dino's are much smaller than the one in the picture I thought I'd give it one more try and have a full set that match up, size wise.
> This will all be done in birch as I have some 2" thick scraps.
> Wouldn't take much to turn this into a hippo would it?
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> The head was a ton a work with all 3d cuts.


Awesome job. It and the T-Rex look great. Really well done.

That is a great book by David Wakefield. He also has one called "Making Dinosaur Toys in Wood" that is just dinosaurs. I've build the small ones from that book, but never these full size ones. Yours look great. I paint mine but now that I have access to better wood, I should up my game and try to make them look like yours. Here are some of mine.

As an aside, David Wakefield posted some of his toys on Lumberjocks several years ago. I had a couple of brief correspondences with him and he was SUPER nice and encouraging. Great books and a class act.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Triceratops*
> 
> Still in Dino mod so here's the start of the Triceratops.
> I built one of these 30 something years ago and still have it.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since all my dino's are much smaller than the one in the picture I thought I'd give it one more try and have a full set that match up, size wise.
> This will all be done in birch as I have some 2" thick scraps.
> Wouldn't take much to turn this into a hippo would it?
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> The head was a ton a work with all 3d cuts.


TMD thanks for the link, I have the left over sides of the Triceratops head and was thinking how to build a scratch build Stegosaurus or Spinosaurus with the left over wood, and your pictures gave me the info I'll need Thanks!!!
O!!! and nice projects you got there!!!
And thanks all for checking it out!


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Triceratops*
> 
> Still in Dino mod so here's the start of the Triceratops.
> I built one of these 30 something years ago and still have it.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> Since all my dino's are much smaller than the one in the picture I thought I'd give it one more try and have a full set that match up, size wise.
> This will all be done in birch as I have some 2" thick scraps.
> Wouldn't take much to turn this into a hippo would it?
> 
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> The head was a ton a work with all 3d cuts.


Fun and games ahead with this build, roughing per historical beasts everywhere.


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## htl

*Log Skidder #113*

My brother in law and his son have been loggers all their lives so wanted to build the son who now has his own logging crew a skidder.
Turns out not to be as simple as it first looks to be but very interesting. lol
I've always wanted to build some of those big tractor wheels but never had any interest in building the tractor so here's my way around that. lol









White oak and a little fir.


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## Budster

htl said:


> *Log Skidder #113*
> 
> My brother in law and his son have been loggers all their lives so wanted to build the son who now has his own logging crew a skidder.
> Turns out not to be as simple as it first looks to be but very interesting. lol
> I've always wanted to build some of those big tractor wheels but never had any interest in building the tractor so here's my way around that. lol
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> White oak and a little fir.


I would say good luck, We all know you will make another top of the line as always.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Log Skidder #113*
> 
> My brother in law and his son have been loggers all their lives so wanted to build the son who now has his own logging crew a skidder.
> Turns out not to be as simple as it first looks to be but very interesting. lol
> I've always wanted to build some of those big tractor wheels but never had any interest in building the tractor so here's my way around that. lol
> 
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> White oak and a little fir.


Sounds like you gave up on me making a mistake but Orvile I make plenty of them but with the right camera angle I can hide most of them, sad but true. lol


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Log Skidder #113*
> 
> My brother in law and his son have been loggers all their lives so wanted to build the son who now has his own logging crew a skidder.
> Turns out not to be as simple as it first looks to be but very interesting. lol
> I've always wanted to build some of those big tractor wheels but never had any interest in building the tractor so here's my way around that. lol
> 
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> White oak and a little fir.


THE SKIDDER should make him very happy to receive :<))


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Log Skidder #113*
> 
> My brother in law and his son have been loggers all their lives so wanted to build the son who now has his own logging crew a skidder.
> Turns out not to be as simple as it first looks to be but very interesting. lol
> I've always wanted to build some of those big tractor wheels but never had any interest in building the tractor so here's my way around that. lol
> 
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> White oak and a little fir.


Great stuff, I get to watch another masterpiece in the making….


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## htl

htl said:


> *Log Skidder #113*
> 
> My brother in law and his son have been loggers all their lives so wanted to build the son who now has his own logging crew a skidder.
> Turns out not to be as simple as it first looks to be but very interesting. lol
> I've always wanted to build some of those big tractor wheels but never had any interest in building the tractor so here's my way around that. lol
> 
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> White oak and a little fir.


Got a little more done.


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## htl

*Log Skidder #113 2&3*

Days two and three








































































I'll need to get started on the wheels before I can go much farther.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Log Skidder #113 2&3*
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> Days two and three
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> I'll need to get started on the wheels before I can go much farther.


Well and truly taking shape now Bruce. Looking good!


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## htl

htl said:


> *Log Skidder #113 2&3*
> 
> Days two and three
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> I'll need to get started on the wheels before I can go much farther.


Thanks Crowie!!!


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Log Skidder #113 2&3*
> 
> Days two and three
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> I'll need to get started on the wheels before I can go much farther.


Looking good this Oldie, with tractor wheels


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## sras

htl said:


> *Log Skidder #113 2&3*
> 
> Days two and three
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> I'll need to get started on the wheels before I can go much farther.


Lookin' good!


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Log Skidder #113 2&3*
> 
> Days two and three
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> I'll need to get started on the wheels before I can go much farther.


i cant wait to see your wheels and tires :<))


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## FrenchGoattoys

htl said:


> *Log Skidder #113 2&3*
> 
> Days two and three
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> I'll need to get started on the wheels before I can go much farther.


Looks real nice.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Log Skidder #113 2&3*
> 
> Days two and three
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> I'll need to get started on the wheels before I can go much farther.


Thanks guys, always nice to hear from the grew!!!


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## htl

*Wheels for the skidder*

Here's my first try at some tractor wheels for the skidder.

First need to get some blanks ready.






























































*Tip* As you get started on the treads always mark the first tread that way you can be sure to line these marks up so the treads always line up even if your indexer isn't perfect.








































































































































Still got a ton a clean up to do but you get the idea.
#4 over and out.


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## FrenchGoattoys

htl said:


> *Wheels for the skidder*
> 
> Here's my first try at some tractor wheels for the skidder.
> 
> First need to get some blanks ready.
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> *Tip* As you get started on the treads always mark the first tread that way you can be sure to line these marks up so the treads always line up even if your indexer isn't perfect.
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> Still got a ton a clean up to do but you get the idea.
> #4 over and out.


Very well done.


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Wheels for the skidder*
> 
> Here's my first try at some tractor wheels for the skidder.
> 
> First need to get some blanks ready.
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> *Tip* As you get started on the treads always mark the first tread that way you can be sure to line these marks up so the treads always line up even if your indexer isn't perfect.
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> Still got a ton a clean up to do but you get the idea.
> #4 over and out.


As always a loit of work,but it's almost done.


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Wheels for the skidder*
> 
> Here's my first try at some tractor wheels for the skidder.
> 
> First need to get some blanks ready.
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> *Tip* As you get started on the treads always mark the first tread that way you can be sure to line these marks up so the treads always line up even if your indexer isn't perfect.
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> Still got a ton a clean up to do but you get the idea.
> #4 over and out.


Fine piece of equipment, looking Good.


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## Budster

htl said:


> *Wheels for the skidder*
> 
> Here's my first try at some tractor wheels for the skidder.
> 
> First need to get some blanks ready.
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> *Tip* As you get started on the treads always mark the first tread that way you can be sure to line these marks up so the treads always line up even if your indexer isn't perfect.
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> Still got a ton a clean up to do but you get the idea.
> #4 over and out.


Now it's rolling right along.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Wheels for the skidder*
> 
> Here's my first try at some tractor wheels for the skidder.
> 
> First need to get some blanks ready.
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> *Tip* As you get started on the treads always mark the first tread that way you can be sure to line these marks up so the treads always line up even if your indexer isn't perfect.
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> Still got a ton a clean up to do but you get the idea.
> #4 over and out.


now your talking to me #4 love em :<)))


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Wheels for the skidder*
> 
> Here's my first try at some tractor wheels for the skidder.
> 
> First need to get some blanks ready.
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> *Tip* As you get started on the treads always mark the first tread that way you can be sure to line these marks up so the treads always line up even if your indexer isn't perfect.
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> Still got a ton a clean up to do but you get the idea.
> #4 over and out.


Bruce Your wheels always looks superb sir, beautifully done.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Wheels for the skidder*
> 
> Here's my first try at some tractor wheels for the skidder.
> 
> First need to get some blanks ready.
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> *Tip* As you get started on the treads always mark the first tread that way you can be sure to line these marks up so the treads always line up even if your indexer isn't perfect.
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> Still got a ton a clean up to do but you get the idea.
> #4 over and out.


hey #4 was looking at your wonderful wheels again can you please explain to me your router table set up as i never seen a set up like this before … THANKS BROTHER :<))


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## htl

htl said:


> *Wheels for the skidder*
> 
> Here's my first try at some tractor wheels for the skidder.
> 
> First need to get some blanks ready.
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> *Tip* As you get started on the treads always mark the first tread that way you can be sure to line these marks up so the treads always line up even if your indexer isn't perfect.
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> Still got a ton a clean up to do but you get the idea.
> #4 over and out.


Tiger#1 my router table is a Dewalt table saw turned into a router table.
The gears used to make the table saw blade go up and down now makes the router go up and down.
Here's a shot of the wheels all done.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Wheels for the skidder*
> 
> Here's my first try at some tractor wheels for the skidder.
> 
> First need to get some blanks ready.
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> *Tip* As you get started on the treads always mark the first tread that way you can be sure to line these marks up so the treads always line up even if your indexer isn't perfect.
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> Still got a ton a clean up to do but you get the idea.
> #4 over and out.


cant wait to see them on the skidder that is one terrific idea Bruce now im on the search for a junk table saw THANKS :<))


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## stefang

htl said:


> *Wheels for the skidder*
> 
> Here's my first try at some tractor wheels for the skidder.
> 
> First need to get some blanks ready.
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> *Tip* As you get started on the treads always mark the first tread that way you can be sure to line these marks up so the treads always line up even if your indexer isn't perfect.
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> Still got a ton a clean up to do but you get the idea.
> #4 over and out.


Very nice work.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Wheels for the skidder*
> 
> Here's my first try at some tractor wheels for the skidder.
> 
> First need to get some blanks ready.
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> *Tip* As you get started on the treads always mark the first tread that way you can be sure to line these marks up so the treads always line up even if your indexer isn't perfect.
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> Still got a ton a clean up to do but you get the idea.
> #4 over and out.


Tony#1 it's quite a project [Router table], not for the faint of heart. LOL
Come to think about it, just about any table saw would work I would think but as I had already took it apart [Dewalt] to soup up my Shop Smith I had the parts on hand.
I've got a blog here some where about doing it?


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## htl

*Fork Lift *

Got Dutchy's Fork Lift plans when they first came out but today was the first time I've been able to get up the gumption to get out there and play with my tools.
It's been exactly 5 months so will take a little while to get back in the grove I hope!
So here's my first few step on getting er done.
The main body part.


















Then comes the parts for the steering, this will all go on the back end of the fork lift.
I know Dutchy already did his blog but just adding my $.02









Here's how I drill a quick hole in the end of an axle.
I mark the center.
Then use the vice to hold it level on one plain.
Then using a squared board, [I could use a metal square but for me they are hard to see and hold in place,so] I hold to the axle and clamp it down and on to the drill.


















I x the sides that are trued up..










Then more steering parts.









I know it doesn't look like much but there's quite a bit a fiddling done here. LOL
So it really felt great getting back in the shop, I'll tell you tomorrow how much my body talked back to me about it. OUCH!!!
HTL over and out


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Fork Lift *
> 
> Got Dutchy's Fork Lift plans when they first came out but today was the first time I've been able to get up the gumption to get out there and play with my tools.
> It's been exactly 5 months so will take a little while to get back in the grove I hope!
> So here's my first few step on getting er done.
> The main body part.
> 
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> 
> Then comes the parts for the steering, this will all go on the back end of the fork lift.
> I know Dutchy already did his blog but just adding my $.02
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how I drill a quick hole in the end of an axle.
> I mark the center.
> Then use the vice to hold it level on one plain.
> Then using a squared board, [I could use a metal square but for me they are hard to see and hold in place,so] I hold to the axle and clamp it down and on to the drill.
> 
> 
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> I x the sides that are trued up..
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> Then more steering parts.
> 
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> 
> I know it doesn't look like much but there's quite a bit a fiddling done here. LOL
> So it really felt great getting back in the shop, I'll tell you tomorrow how much my body talked back to me about it. OUCH!!!
> HTL over and out


just ease into it at first #4 think about everything you do so we dont hurt ourselves GR8 start to this very kewl model I also have the plans but first the UTV in on my desk I will be following along I have a 2×4 with 3/4" dado in it for drilling axles and round dowels so I can clamp them in :<))))


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Fork Lift *
> 
> Got Dutchy's Fork Lift plans when they first came out but today was the first time I've been able to get up the gumption to get out there and play with my tools.
> It's been exactly 5 months so will take a little while to get back in the grove I hope!
> So here's my first few step on getting er done.
> The main body part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then comes the parts for the steering, this will all go on the back end of the fork lift.
> I know Dutchy already did his blog but just adding my $.02
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how I drill a quick hole in the end of an axle.
> I mark the center.
> Then use the vice to hold it level on one plain.
> Then using a squared board, [I could use a metal square but for me they are hard to see and hold in place,so] I hold to the axle and clamp it down and on to the drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I x the sides that are trued up..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then more steering parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it doesn't look like much but there's quite a bit a fiddling done here. LOL
> So it really felt great getting back in the shop, I'll tell you tomorrow how much my body talked back to me about it. OUCH!!!
> HTL over and out


I will follow you. Nice to see you back here #4. The templates from the plan you are using for the main body part are changed after you have perchased it, but I see you didn't make the mistake I made.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Fork Lift *
> 
> Got Dutchy's Fork Lift plans when they first came out but today was the first time I've been able to get up the gumption to get out there and play with my tools.
> It's been exactly 5 months so will take a little while to get back in the grove I hope!
> So here's my first few step on getting er done.
> The main body part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then comes the parts for the steering, this will all go on the back end of the fork lift.
> I know Dutchy already did his blog but just adding my $.02
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how I drill a quick hole in the end of an axle.
> I mark the center.
> Then use the vice to hold it level on one plain.
> Then using a squared board, [I could use a metal square but for me they are hard to see and hold in place,so] I hold to the axle and clamp it down and on to the drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I x the sides that are trued up..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then more steering parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it doesn't look like much but there's quite a bit a fiddling done here. LOL
> So it really felt great getting back in the shop, I'll tell you tomorrow how much my body talked back to me about it. OUCH!!!
> HTL over and out


Good to see you back in the shed after your winter sabbatical Bruce.


----------



## htl

*Fork Lift #2*

Well got back out there and was able to get a little more done.
Having a hard time stopping to take pictures as Dutchy did such a great blog there's really nothing I can add to up the project..


















You'll notice I ended up doing my back end different as I built the Dutchy style grill before I sanded the frame all my work was wasted when it was to wide to fit in the space needed so just went and built a quick simple grill to get er done.



















#4 over and out!!!


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Fork Lift #2*
> 
> Well got back out there and was able to get a little more done.
> Having a hard time stopping to take pictures as Dutchy did such a great blog there's really nothing I can add to up the project..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You'll notice I ended up doing my back end different as I built the Dutchy style grill before I sanded the frame all my work was wasted when it was to wide to fit in the space needed so just went and built a quick simple grill to get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #4 over and out!!!


I like that grill and ofcourse also the rest.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Fork Lift #2*
> 
> Well got back out there and was able to get a little more done.
> Having a hard time stopping to take pictures as Dutchy did such a great blog there's really nothing I can add to up the project..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You'll notice I ended up doing my back end different as I built the Dutchy style grill before I sanded the frame all my work was wasted when it was to wide to fit in the space needed so just went and built a quick simple grill to get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #4 over and out!!!


Thanks Dutchy!!!
It never fails that I end up changing things around to make my building easier for this lazy wood butcher. LOL


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Fork Lift #2*
> 
> Well got back out there and was able to get a little more done.
> Having a hard time stopping to take pictures as Dutchy did such a great blog there's really nothing I can add to up the project..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You'll notice I ended up doing my back end different as I built the Dutchy style grill before I sanded the frame all my work was wasted when it was to wide to fit in the space needed so just went and built a quick simple grill to get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> #4 over and out!!!


Dutchy I just went over to your LJ"s home page to get the address for your web site and it was so funny the advertisements on the side were all for fork lift parts. LOL!!!!
Now why would they think someone would need fork lift parts after checking out your build but I guess that's better than putting lady's summer stuff on there.. LOL!!!!!!!!


----------



## Budster

htl said:


> *Fork Lift #2*
> 
> Well got back out there and was able to get a little more done.
> Having a hard time stopping to take pictures as Dutchy did such a great blog there's really nothing I can add to up the project..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You'll notice I ended up doing my back end different as I built the Dutchy style grill before I sanded the frame all my work was wasted when it was to wide to fit in the space needed so just went and built a quick simple grill to get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #4 over and out!!!


Looking GOOD ! as always.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Fork Lift #2*
> 
> Well got back out there and was able to get a little more done.
> Having a hard time stopping to take pictures as Dutchy did such a great blog there's really nothing I can add to up the project..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You'll notice I ended up doing my back end different as I built the Dutchy style grill before I sanded the frame all my work was wasted when it was to wide to fit in the space needed so just went and built a quick simple grill to get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #4 over and out!!!


The back with your custom grill looks like it could be the front of a truck/prime mover/ tractor.

Good blog Bruce, thank you


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Fork Lift #2*
> 
> Well got back out there and was able to get a little more done.
> Having a hard time stopping to take pictures as Dutchy did such a great blog there's really nothing I can add to up the project..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You'll notice I ended up doing my back end different as I built the Dutchy style grill before I sanded the frame all my work was wasted when it was to wide to fit in the space needed so just went and built a quick simple grill to get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #4 over and out!!!


It's really a robot face from 2356.


----------



## htl

*Fork lift Body work*

Seat and steering wheel get a try out,




































If I knew what I know now I wouldn't have glued on the front wall where the steering wheel is mounted till I was ready with the cage parts, it would have made the cage frame angles much easier to work with..










Then on to the cage and fenders.






















































I'm really liking the way it's turning out, had no idea how big it would be, but feels just right!!!

#4 over and out!


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Fork lift Body work*
> 
> Seat and steering wheel get a try out,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I knew what I know now I wouldn't have glued on the front wall where the steering wheel is mounted till I was ready with the cage parts, it would have made the cage frame angles much easier to work with..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then on to the cage and fenders.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> I'm really liking the way it's turning out, had no idea how big it would be, but feels just right!!!
> 
> #4 over and out!


Yes Bruce it's coming together very nicely sir. Well done


----------



## htl

*fork lift building the forks*

This should be the last of the big stuff that needs made, other than the wheels.

Really needed to pay attention with these forks or it could be put together back ward very easily.































































And all the way up smooth as you please.









HTL over and out


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *fork lift building the forks*
> 
> This should be the last of the big stuff that needs made, other than the wheels.
> 
> Really needed to pay attention with these forks or it could be put together back ward very easily.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> And all the way up smooth as you please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HTL over and out


Difficult, but isn't it a beauty?


----------



## sras

htl said:


> *fork lift building the forks*
> 
> This should be the last of the big stuff that needs made, other than the wheels.
> 
> Really needed to pay attention with these forks or it could be put together back ward very easily.
> 
> 
> 
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> And all the way up smooth as you please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HTL over and out


Nice work! (as always


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *fork lift building the forks*
> 
> This should be the last of the big stuff that needs made, other than the wheels.
> 
> Really needed to pay attention with these forks or it could be put together back ward very easily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> And all the way up smooth as you please.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HTL over and out


if Dutchy says its difficult



> Difficult, but isn t it a beauty?
> 
> - Dutchy


i am not sure im ready to tackle it yet LOL :<))


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *fork lift building the forks*
> 
> This should be the last of the big stuff that needs made, other than the wheels.
> 
> Really needed to pay attention with these forks or it could be put together back ward very easily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> And all the way up smooth as you please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HTL over and out


This is going to be a really nice build and have really had fun figuring it out and I must say Dutchy's blog really helped a bunch.
I had been away from building for over 5 months so it has taken a little while to get my mind back in the groove.
Just about time to play with some wheels. YES!!!


----------



## htl

*fork lift Wheels and Muffler*

Made up some wheel blanks today and off to the wheel jig tread maker.


















It makes it fast work when you can cut all the tires of the same size at one time.
So only had to load the jig twice and it's done.



























Also played with making a muffler and the back up warning light.

I marked the dowel and using the drill table fence was able to slide the vice along the fence for in line holes.


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> *fork lift Wheels and Muffler*
> 
> Made up some wheel blanks today and off to the wheel jig tread maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It makes it fast work when you can cut all the tires of the same size at one time.
> So only had to load the jig twice and it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also played with making a muffler and the back up warning light.
> 
> I marked the dowel and using the drill table fence was able to slide the vice along the fence for in line holes.


Looking Good.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *fork lift Wheels and Muffler*
> 
> Made up some wheel blanks today and off to the wheel jig tread maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It makes it fast work when you can cut all the tires of the same size at one time.
> So only had to load the jig twice and it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also played with making a muffler and the back up warning light.
> 
> I marked the dowel and using the drill table fence was able to slide the vice along the fence for in line holes.


----------



## jeffswildwood

htl said:


> *fork lift Wheels and Muffler*
> 
> Made up some wheel blanks today and off to the wheel jig tread maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It makes it fast work when you can cut all the tires of the same size at one time.
> So only had to load the jig twice and it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also played with making a muffler and the back up warning light.
> 
> I marked the dowel and using the drill table fence was able to slide the vice along the fence for in line holes.


Nice work. I really like that wheel maker!


----------



## sras

htl said:


> *fork lift Wheels and Muffler*
> 
> Made up some wheel blanks today and off to the wheel jig tread maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It makes it fast work when you can cut all the tires of the same size at one time.
> So only had to load the jig twice and it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also played with making a muffler and the back up warning light.
> 
> I marked the dowel and using the drill table fence was able to slide the vice along the fence for in line holes.


Nice work!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *fork lift Wheels and Muffler*
> 
> Made up some wheel blanks today and off to the wheel jig tread maker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It makes it fast work when you can cut all the tires of the same size at one time.
> So only had to load the jig twice and it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also played with making a muffler and the back up warning light.
> 
> I marked the dowel and using the drill table fence was able to slide the vice along the fence for in line holes.


Thanks for checking in and commenting it makes my day to know there are other interested in this type of wood working.


----------



## htl

*fork lift wheels sanded and installed*

Simple wheel sanding jig.


















Wheels on. :]

Over time these cherry wheels will turn very dark almost as dark as the walnut.









forks set but will be adding some pin stops later on.









Roof, hydraulics and muffler all in place.



























Just a few things left to do.
The finished project is here.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *fork lift wheels sanded and installed*
> 
> Simple wheel sanding jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wheels on. :]
> 
> Over time these cherry wheels will turn very dark almost as dark as the walnut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> forks set but will be adding some pin stops later on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Roof, hydraulics and muffler all in place.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a few things left to do.
> The finished project is here.


Looking good #4


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *fork lift wheels sanded and installed*
> 
> Simple wheel sanding jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wheels on. :]
> 
> Over time these cherry wheels will turn very dark almost as dark as the walnut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> forks set but will be adding some pin stops later on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Roof, hydraulics and muffler all in place.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a few things left to do.
> The finished project is here.


Thanks Dutchy, 
It's been an interesting build and man the details you needed to get your plans right are amazing!!!!!!!!
Well Done For Sure!!!!!


----------



## Redoak49

htl said:


> *fork lift wheels sanded and installed*
> 
> Simple wheel sanding jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wheels on. :]
> 
> Over time these cherry wheels will turn very dark almost as dark as the walnut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> forks set but will be adding some pin stops later on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Roof, hydraulics and muffler all in place.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a few things left to do.
> The finished project is here.


Great work and really enjoy your blog on how you made things.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *fork lift wheels sanded and installed*
> 
> Simple wheel sanding jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wheels on. :]
> 
> Over time these cherry wheels will turn very dark almost as dark as the walnut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> forks set but will be adding some pin stops later on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Roof, hydraulics and muffler all in place.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a few things left to do.
> The finished project is here.





> Looking good #4
> 
> - Dutchy


Looks GREAT!


----------



## htl

*Indy Car Scratch build*

This is one I have been thinking about for a long time and had even started collecting pictures for ideas and just never went any farther.
Well the time is right and will be a pretty quick one if I'm seeing it right, [The kind I like best these days]
LOL I had bought the plans for the newer LOW BOY Trailer but the minute I said something about it the BOSS said no more BIG GIANT PROJECTS!!!
This is just fine and the Indy Car should be right up my ally.
Just getting it figured out but here what done so far.

The plan of attack.









Then cut out the parts as they fall in to place, I had found a plan to use and enlarged it to 130% then off to the shop to paste the pages together and see what need to be cut out.

*This is all based on a 2" wheel.*
I printed out four sets so I could cut them up as needed.









You can kind a get the idea where I'm going now.









The wheels will be just under 2".

#4 over and out!!!


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## chief101

htl said:


> *Indy Car Scratch build*
> 
> This is one I have been thinking about for a long time and had even started collecting pictures for ideas and just never went any farther.
> Well the time is right and will be a pretty quick one if I'm seeing it right, [The kind I like best these days]
> LOL I had bought the plans for the newer LOW BOY Trailer but the minute I said something about it the BOSS said no more BIG GIANT PROJECTS!!!
> This is just fine and the Indy Car should be right up my ally.
> Just getting it figured out but here what done so far.
> 
> The plan of attack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut out the parts as they fall in to place, I had found a plan to use and enlarged it to 130% then off to the shop to paste the pages together and see what need to be cut out.
> 
> *This is all based on a 2" wheel.*
> I printed out four sets so I could cut them up as needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can kind a get the idea where I'm going now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wheels will be just under 2".
> 
> #4 over and out!!!


Looks like a fun build.


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Indy Car Scratch build*
> 
> This is one I have been thinking about for a long time and had even started collecting pictures for ideas and just never went any farther.
> Well the time is right and will be a pretty quick one if I'm seeing it right, [The kind I like best these days]
> LOL I had bought the plans for the newer LOW BOY Trailer but the minute I said something about it the BOSS said no more BIG GIANT PROJECTS!!!
> This is just fine and the Indy Car should be right up my ally.
> Just getting it figured out but here what done so far.
> 
> The plan of attack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut out the parts as they fall in to place, I had found a plan to use and enlarged it to 130% then off to the shop to paste the pages together and see what need to be cut out.
> 
> *This is all based on a 2" wheel.*
> I printed out four sets so I could cut them up as needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can kind a get the idea where I'm going now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wheels will be just under 2".
> 
> #4 over and out!!!


All the detailing in this one will be the challenge Bruce. 
Good start!


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## hookfoot

htl said:


> *Indy Car Scratch build*
> 
> This is one I have been thinking about for a long time and had even started collecting pictures for ideas and just never went any farther.
> Well the time is right and will be a pretty quick one if I'm seeing it right, [The kind I like best these days]
> LOL I had bought the plans for the newer LOW BOY Trailer but the minute I said something about it the BOSS said no more BIG GIANT PROJECTS!!!
> This is just fine and the Indy Car should be right up my ally.
> Just getting it figured out but here what done so far.
> 
> The plan of attack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut out the parts as they fall in to place, I had found a plan to use and enlarged it to 130% then off to the shop to paste the pages together and see what need to be cut out.
> 
> *This is all based on a 2" wheel.*
> I printed out four sets so I could cut them up as needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can kind a get the idea where I'm going now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wheels will be just under 2".
> 
> #4 over and out!!!


Love your scratch build idea. Will be looking for more.


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## helluvawreck

htl said:


> *Indy Car Scratch build*
> 
> This is one I have been thinking about for a long time and had even started collecting pictures for ideas and just never went any farther.
> Well the time is right and will be a pretty quick one if I'm seeing it right, [The kind I like best these days]
> LOL I had bought the plans for the newer LOW BOY Trailer but the minute I said something about it the BOSS said no more BIG GIANT PROJECTS!!!
> This is just fine and the Indy Car should be right up my ally.
> Just getting it figured out but here what done so far.
> 
> The plan of attack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut out the parts as they fall in to place, I had found a plan to use and enlarged it to 130% then off to the shop to paste the pages together and see what need to be cut out.
> 
> *This is all based on a 2" wheel.*
> I printed out four sets so I could cut them up as needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can kind a get the idea where I'm going now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wheels will be just under 2".
> 
> #4 over and out!!!


Nice going. It's coming along great.


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## htl

*Indy Car Scratch build #2*

Getting the feel of how it needs to be.


















These parts will be glued one on top of the other so need to have the parts shaped and sanded before they are added.









I usually don't build models this way but seemed like it will work for this small a project.




























Got the back end figured out.
If I knew what I know now I would have had the rear end as part of the frame parts it would have come out much cleaner looking.

















Next up need to play a round with the front.


























This looks like it might work but it's time to hit the house.
This all was done over a couple a short days.
This would make a cool race boat with a few changes. lol


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## FrenchGoattoys

htl said:


> *Indy Car Scratch build #2*
> 
> Getting the feel of how it needs to be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These parts will be glued one on top of the other so need to have the parts shaped and sanded before they are added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I usually don't build models this way but seemed like it will work for this small a project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got the back end figured out.
> If I knew what I know now I would have had the rear end as part of the frame parts it would have come out much cleaner looking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up need to play a round with the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This looks like it might work but it's time to hit the house.
> This all was done over a couple a short days.
> This would make a cool race boat with a few changes. lol


I am inspired. General measurements?


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## htl

htl said:


> *Indy Car Scratch build #2*
> 
> Getting the feel of how it needs to be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These parts will be glued one on top of the other so need to have the parts shaped and sanded before they are added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I usually don't build models this way but seemed like it will work for this small a project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got the back end figured out.
> If I knew what I know now I would have had the rear end as part of the frame parts it would have come out much cleaner looking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up need to play a round with the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This looks like it might work but it's time to hit the house.
> This all was done over a couple a short days.
> This would make a cool race boat with a few changes. lol


Down load the plan and make it any size you want by using the printer menu.
I found the plan by searching google for indy blue print if I remember right.
I based mine off of 2" wheels.


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## htl

htl said:


> *Indy Car Scratch build #2*
> 
> Getting the feel of how it needs to be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These parts will be glued one on top of the other so need to have the parts shaped and sanded before they are added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I usually don't build models this way but seemed like it will work for this small a project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got the back end figured out.
> If I knew what I know now I would have had the rear end as part of the frame parts it would have come out much cleaner looking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up need to play a round with the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This looks like it might work but it's time to hit the house.
> This all was done over a couple a short days.
> This would make a cool race boat with a few changes. lol


13" long
6" wide 
3" high


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Indy Car Scratch build #2*
> 
> Getting the feel of how it needs to be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These parts will be glued one on top of the other so need to have the parts shaped and sanded before they are added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I usually don't build models this way but seemed like it will work for this small a project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got the back end figured out.
> If I knew what I know now I would have had the rear end as part of the frame parts it would have come out much cleaner looking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up need to play a round with the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This looks like it might work but it's time to hit the house.
> This all was done over a couple a short days.
> This would make a cool race boat with a few changes. lol


it really dont look like much till the wheels get added on WOW :<))


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Indy Car Scratch build #2*
> 
> Getting the feel of how it needs to be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These parts will be glued one on top of the other so need to have the parts shaped and sanded before they are added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I usually don't build models this way but seemed like it will work for this small a project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got the back end figured out.
> If I knew what I know now I would have had the rear end as part of the frame parts it would have come out much cleaner looking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up need to play a round with the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This looks like it might work but it's time to hit the house.
> This all was done over a couple a short days.
> This would make a cool race boat with a few changes. lol


Looking good so far Bruce


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## htl

*Indy Car Scratch build glued up rear end and figured out the front*

Got a little more figured out.



























Long way from perfect but it should get the job done.



























Just about time to figure out some wheels. yes!!!


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## oldrivers

htl said:


> *Indy Car Scratch build glued up rear end and figured out the front*
> 
> Got a little more figured out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Long way from perfect but it should get the job done.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just about time to figure out some wheels. yes!!!


Hang in there you will deter done!


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Indy Car Scratch build glued up rear end and figured out the front*
> 
> Got a little more figured out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Long way from perfect but it should get the job done.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just about time to figure out some wheels. yes!!!


You are doeing a great job on this one #4


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Indy Car Scratch build glued up rear end and figured out the front*
> 
> Got a little more figured out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Long way from perfect but it should get the job done.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just about time to figure out some wheels. yes!!!


Starting to look very realistic Bruce


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## htl

*Indy Car Scratch build Front end figured out*

Here's what we need next.









And what I came up with.



























Maybe name it Hammer Head. LOL


















Then a very simple back end.


















Just a few things left to do, would love to make some fancy wheels but my jig isn't set up to cut such small wheels 2" so we'll see if I can get up the gumption to work it out.
#4 over and out ;-]


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## BadBob

htl said:


> *Indy Car Scratch build Front end figured out*
> 
> Here's what we need next.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Maybe name it Hammer Head. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a very simple back end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a few things left to do, would love to make some fancy wheels but my jig isn't set up to cut such small wheels 2" so we'll see if I can get up the gumption to work it out.
> #4 over and out ;-]


The car looks great. However, Indy cars don't run knobby tires. They run smooth tires with no tread on dry pavement.


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## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Indy Car Scratch build Front end figured out*
> 
> Here's what we need next.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Maybe name it Hammer Head. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a very simple back end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a few things left to do, would love to make some fancy wheels but my jig isn't set up to cut such small wheels 2" so we'll see if I can get up the gumption to work it out.
> #4 over and out ;-]


i agree hammerhead LOL Bob im sure he just has them there for reference #4 knows the scoop :<))


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## htl

htl said:


> *Indy Car Scratch build Front end figured out*
> 
> Here's what we need next.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe name it Hammer Head. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a very simple back end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a few things left to do, would love to make some fancy wheels but my jig isn't set up to cut such small wheels 2" so we'll see if I can get up the gumption to work it out.
> #4 over and out ;-]












Well but what do they do on rainy track???


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## htl

htl said:


> *Indy Car Scratch build Front end figured out*
> 
> Here's what we need next.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe name it Hammer Head. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a very simple back end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a few things left to do, would love to make some fancy wheels but my jig isn't set up to cut such small wheels 2" so we'll see if I can get up the gumption to work it out.
> #4 over and out ;-]


Indy car made street legal, now that's the car I'm making. LOL










I've never been interested in Indy racing but as a kid I lived about 150 miles from there and did ride around the track many years ago.
I've always been a dirt rider, motor cycles.


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## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Indy Car Scratch build Front end figured out*
> 
> Here's what we need next.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe name it Hammer Head. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a very simple back end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a few things left to do, would love to make some fancy wheels but my jig isn't set up to cut such small wheels 2" so we'll see if I can get up the gumption to work it out.
> #4 over and out ;-]


Lovely


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Indy Car Scratch build Front end figured out*
> 
> Here's what we need next.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe name it Hammer Head. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then a very simple back end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a few things left to do, would love to make some fancy wheels but my jig isn't set up to cut such small wheels 2" so we'll see if I can get up the gumption to work it out.
> #4 over and out ;-]


The front splitter looks great Bruce and those tyres WOW!


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## htl

*Indy Car Scratch build Fair weather tires*

I was told my knobby tires just wouldn't do so today I made the tires I should have made to start with but just wasn't sure if this car was going to be worth the extra effort.









So here's my step by step for making the fair weather tires or slicks.
Scraps of walnut, now I know why I've been saving all those useless chunks a wood.










My 2" hole saw makes quick work for the shape, see how I drilled the holes right at the edge of the wood so the saw dust could get out and not bind up the drill.
The block was to thick for the drill so had to drill it out from both ends.









Then off to the disk sander to clean up the edges and make sure their all the same size.


















Then needed to cut the blanks all the same length, after figuring out what I needed.
Cutting round stuff can be dangerous so used the band saw with jigs to hold the parts fast as I cut them..
I also use a stop block to keep everything the same.


















Next need to drill out the front and back of the tires.
The front will be 1" and the back 7/8".
I used fastener bits for this as they are the only bits I have this size.
Ryobi has a great bit set at Home Depot for this work.

I need to center the fastener bit to the axle hole so make a jig to hold the tires in place for drilling.

Here I'm centering the jig using a 1/4" drill that fits in the axle holes.



























Now I can use the bigger bit as it's center to the hole.
I use the pliers so the wood doesn't spin out of my hand.









Then needed a new jig to do the other side as the dowel was to short with the first jig.








I forgot to take pictures of the sanding steps but if you check a couple a blogs back I think I show this being done.



























There are a hundred way to get this work done but this is what I use with the tools at hand.
If you have found a better way would love to hear it, so post away. :-]

*Well will these tires work for the car now??? lol*

#4 over and out!!!


----------



## Redoak49

htl said:


> *Indy Car Scratch build Fair weather tires*
> 
> I was told my knobby tires just wouldn't do so today I made the tires I should have made to start with but just wasn't sure if this car was going to be worth the extra effort.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's my step by step for making the fair weather tires or slicks.
> Scraps of walnut, now I know why I've been saving all those useless chunks a wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 2" hole saw makes quick work for the shape, see how I drilled the holes right at the edge of the wood so the saw dust could get out and not bind up the drill.
> The block was to thick for the drill so had to drill it out from both ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then off to the disk sander to clean up the edges and make sure their all the same size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then needed to cut the blanks all the same length, after figuring out what I needed.
> Cutting round stuff can be dangerous so used the band saw with jigs to hold the parts fast as I cut them..
> I also use a stop block to keep everything the same.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next need to drill out the front and back of the tires.
> The front will be 1" and the back 7/8".
> I used fastener bits for this as they are the only bits I have this size.
> Ryobi has a great bit set at Home Depot for this work.
> 
> I need to center the fastener bit to the axle hole so make a jig to hold the tires in place for drilling.
> 
> Here I'm centering the jig using a 1/4" drill that fits in the axle holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can use the bigger bit as it's center to the hole.
> I use the pliers so the wood doesn't spin out of my hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then needed a new jig to do the other side as the dowel was to short with the first jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I forgot to take pictures of the sanding steps but if you check a couple a blogs back I think I show this being done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a hundred way to get this work done but this is what I use with the tools at hand.
> If you have found a better way would love to hear it, so post away. :-]
> 
> *Well will these tires work for the car now??? lol*
> 
> #4 over and out!!!


Very nice!


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Indy Car Scratch build Fair weather tires*
> 
> I was told my knobby tires just wouldn't do so today I made the tires I should have made to start with but just wasn't sure if this car was going to be worth the extra effort.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's my step by step for making the fair weather tires or slicks.
> Scraps of walnut, now I know why I've been saving all those useless chunks a wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 2" hole saw makes quick work for the shape, see how I drilled the holes right at the edge of the wood so the saw dust could get out and not bind up the drill.
> The block was to thick for the drill so had to drill it out from both ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then off to the disk sander to clean up the edges and make sure their all the same size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then needed to cut the blanks all the same length, after figuring out what I needed.
> Cutting round stuff can be dangerous so used the band saw with jigs to hold the parts fast as I cut them..
> I also use a stop block to keep everything the same.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next need to drill out the front and back of the tires.
> The front will be 1" and the back 7/8".
> I used fastener bits for this as they are the only bits I have this size.
> Ryobi has a great bit set at Home Depot for this work.
> 
> I need to center the fastener bit to the axle hole so make a jig to hold the tires in place for drilling.
> 
> Here I'm centering the jig using a 1/4" drill that fits in the axle holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can use the bigger bit as it's center to the hole.
> I use the pliers so the wood doesn't spin out of my hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then needed a new jig to do the other side as the dowel was to short with the first jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I forgot to take pictures of the sanding steps but if you check a couple a blogs back I think I show this being done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are a hundred way to get this work done but this is what I use with the tools at hand.
> If you have found a better way would love to hear it, so post away. :-]
> 
> *Well will these tires work for the car now??? lol*
> 
> #4 over and out!!!


Much nicer tyres.


----------



## htl

*Indy Car Scratch build rims seat scoop*

Getting very close to being done.
When I got ready for the rims I started looking for wheel blanks to use and found another set a rim from a project a way's back.
It never hurts to make extra parts when you all ready have the tool set up for some intricate work, it can save you tons a work down the road.




































Then I played with a seat and redid the scoop over the drivers head.


----------



## BadBob

htl said:


> *Indy Car Scratch build rims seat scoop*
> 
> Getting very close to being done.
> When I got ready for the rims I started looking for wheel blanks to use and found another set a rim from a project a way's back.
> It never hurts to make extra parts when you all ready have the tool set up for some intricate work, it can save you tons a work down the road.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I played with a seat and redid the scoop over the drivers head.


Looking good.


----------



## htl

*Playing with the Morgan plans*

Weathers getting just right for some shop time. ;-]
Started on the Morgan yesterday.
I didn't have any thick wood to work with so had to go about this project a little different than Dutchy shows in his How2's.
Here's a shot as I left the shop and a few along the way.




































If I built another one the door and trunk sides would be one part.









Drilling the hole for the tire, quick and dirty, but once I load the tire it shouldn't be seen.* I hope!!! LOL*










Here's a couple a pictures of how I put it together.
Having to do it this way adds more work but will lighten it up a bit.



























I know it doesn't look like much but should be about right when done.

#4 over and out!


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Playing with the Morgan plans*
> 
> Weathers getting just right for some shop time. ;-]
> Started on the Morgan yesterday.
> I didn't have any thick wood to work with so had to go about this project a little different than Dutchy shows in his How2's.
> Here's a shot as I left the shop and a few along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I built another one the door and trunk sides would be one part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling the hole for the tire, quick and dirty, but once I load the tire it shouldn't be seen.* I hope!!! LOL*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a couple a pictures of how I put it together.
> Having to do it this way adds more work but will lighten it up a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it doesn't look like much but should be about right when done.
> 
> #4 over and out!


Enjoy building.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Playing with the Morgan plans*
> 
> Weathers getting just right for some shop time. ;-]
> Started on the Morgan yesterday.
> I didn't have any thick wood to work with so had to go about this project a little different than Dutchy shows in his How2's.
> Here's a shot as I left the shop and a few along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I built another one the door and trunk sides would be one part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling the hole for the tire, quick and dirty, but once I load the tire it shouldn't be seen.* I hope!!! LOL*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a couple a pictures of how I put it together.
> Having to do it this way adds more work but will lighten it up a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it doesn't look like much but should be about right when done.
> 
> #4 over and out!


Excellent start Bruce, I can see it coming together well.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Playing with the Morgan plans*
> 
> Weathers getting just right for some shop time. ;-]
> Started on the Morgan yesterday.
> I didn't have any thick wood to work with so had to go about this project a little different than Dutchy shows in his How2's.
> Here's a shot as I left the shop and a few along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I built another one the door and trunk sides would be one part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling the hole for the tire, quick and dirty, but once I load the tire it shouldn't be seen.* I hope!!! LOL*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a couple a pictures of how I put it together.
> Having to do it this way adds more work but will lighten it up a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it doesn't look like much but should be about right when done.
> 
> #4 over and out!


Here's some Morgan videos to check out more about them.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Playing with the Morgan plans*
> 
> Weathers getting just right for some shop time. ;-]
> Started on the Morgan yesterday.
> I didn't have any thick wood to work with so had to go about this project a little different than Dutchy shows in his How2's.
> Here's a shot as I left the shop and a few along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I built another one the door and trunk sides would be one part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilling the hole for the tire, quick and dirty, but once I load the tire it shouldn't be seen.* I hope!!! LOL*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a couple a pictures of how I put it together.
> Having to do it this way adds more work but will lighten it up a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it doesn't look like much but should be about right when done.
> 
> #4 over and out!


im so glad you got back into shop so as i can live through you looks nice #4 :<))))))


----------



## htl

*grill bonnet and fenders*

Another nice day so slipped out to the shop. lol
Got the bonnet fit in and the grill figured out.
It will have a cherry body and oak fenders and details.



























Then spent the rest of the day figuring out the front fenders and getting them cut out.

























Just about time to play with some wheels and 
I think I've come up with something that should work just right for this sports car..

#4 over and out!!!


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *grill bonnet and fenders*
> 
> Another nice day so slipped out to the shop. lol
> Got the bonnet fit in and the grill figured out.
> It will have a cherry body and oak fenders and details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then spent the rest of the day figuring out the front fenders and getting them cut out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just about time to play with some wheels and
> I think I've come up with something that should work just right for this sports car..
> 
> #4 over and out!!!


The bonnet on that car looks so good Bruce; top job sir. 
Who wouldn't love to own one.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *grill bonnet and fenders*
> 
> Another nice day so slipped out to the shop. lol
> Got the bonnet fit in and the grill figured out.
> It will have a cherry body and oak fenders and details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then spent the rest of the day figuring out the front fenders and getting them cut out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just about time to play with some wheels and
> I think I've come up with something that should work just right for this sports car..
> 
> #4 over and out!!!


Keep on going.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *grill bonnet and fenders*
> 
> Another nice day so slipped out to the shop. lol
> Got the bonnet fit in and the grill figured out.
> It will have a cherry body and oak fenders and details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then spent the rest of the day figuring out the front fenders and getting them cut out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just about time to play with some wheels and
> I think I've come up with something that should work just right for this sports car..
> 
> #4 over and out!!!


No, Dutchy I think I will stop right here for now. *LOL*


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *grill bonnet and fenders*
> 
> Another nice day so slipped out to the shop. lol
> Got the bonnet fit in and the grill figured out.
> It will have a cherry body and oak fenders and details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then spent the rest of the day figuring out the front fenders and getting them cut out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just about time to play with some wheels and
> I think I've come up with something that should work just right for this sports car..
> 
> #4 over and out!!!


cant hardly wait to see your version with your wheels #4 looking nice so far :<))))))))))


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *grill bonnet and fenders*
> 
> Another nice day so slipped out to the shop. lol
> Got the bonnet fit in and the grill figured out.
> It will have a cherry body and oak fenders and details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then spent the rest of the day figuring out the front fenders and getting them cut out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just about time to play with some wheels and
> I think I've come up with something that should work just right for this sports car..
> 
> #4 over and out!!!


Tony I cut out the back fenders and cut out all the wheel parts so tomorrow should be drilling for spokes. ;-]]]]]
Making extras as you never know when one may go south.


----------



## htl

*Playing with the wheels*

Playing with some wheels.

I didn't have anything wide enough so here's a how2 on what I do for it.
Here I'm gluing up the wood.
After spreading the glue I C clamp it side ways to be sure its flat and matches up then bar clamp at both ends. 
The c clamp holds it all in place as the bar clamps get clamped on.



























Here using a 3" hole saw to make the out side rubber.


















Next drilling out for the wheel rim and axle.
I leave 1/8" at the base to hold the rim and axle together as I drill out for the spokes.
This keeps everything lined up till it's all glued together.
There's more info about this in my last spoke wheel build.









On to the marking jig, I am marking out and testing for 18 spokes but we'll see what happens down the road.









After marking where the spokes will go I center punch the spots and then drill out the holes with a drill bit 2 sizes smaller than the spokes.
This helps to line up ever thing for the bigger bit with out as much wandering bit wise.
You also see where I used one of the cut outs to make a backer so I have some thing to hold the wheel in place for drilling.









Eight holes drilled down and then in the next picture drilling the other angle.

















Then nipped off the tooth picks and we get an idea where I'm going with this.


















One down 7 more to go. ;-]]]


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Playing with the wheels*
> 
> Playing with some wheels.
> 
> I didn't have anything wide enough so here's a how2 on what I do for it.
> Here I'm gluing up the wood.
> After spreading the glue I C clamp it side ways to be sure its flat and matches up then bar clamp at both ends.
> The c clamp holds it all in place as the bar clamps get clamped on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here using a 3" hole saw to make the out side rubber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next drilling out for the wheel rim and axle.
> I leave 1/8" at the base to hold the rim and axle together as I drill out for the spokes.
> This keeps everything lined up till it's all glued together.
> There's more info about this in my last spoke wheel build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On to the marking jig, I am marking out and testing for 18 spokes but we'll see what happens down the road.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After marking where the spokes will go I center punch the spots and then drill out the holes with a drill bit 2 sizes smaller than the spokes.
> This helps to line up ever thing for the bigger bit with out as much wandering bit wise.
> You also see where I used one of the cut outs to make a backer so I have some thing to hold the wheel in place for drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Eight holes drilled down and then in the next picture drilling the other angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then nipped off the tooth picks and we get an idea where I'm going with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One down 7 more to go. ;-]]]


Pains taking precision craftsmanship by a master wheel maker, yes, first class Bruce!


----------



## edleblanc257

htl said:


> *Playing with the wheels*
> 
> Playing with some wheels.
> 
> I didn't have anything wide enough so here's a how2 on what I do for it.
> Here I'm gluing up the wood.
> After spreading the glue I C clamp it side ways to be sure its flat and matches up then bar clamp at both ends.
> The c clamp holds it all in place as the bar clamps get clamped on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here using a 3" hole saw to make the out side rubber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next drilling out for the wheel rim and axle.
> I leave 1/8" at the base to hold the rim and axle together as I drill out for the spokes.
> This keeps everything lined up till it's all glued together.
> There's more info about this in my last spoke wheel build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On to the marking jig, I am marking out and testing for 18 spokes but we'll see what happens down the road.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After marking where the spokes will go I center punch the spots and then drill out the holes with a drill bit 2 sizes smaller than the spokes.
> This helps to line up ever thing for the bigger bit with out as much wandering bit wise.
> You also see where I used one of the cut outs to make a backer so I have some thing to hold the wheel in place for drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Eight holes drilled down and then in the next picture drilling the other angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then nipped off the tooth picks and we get an idea where I'm going with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One down 7 more to go. ;-]]]


Amazing work!


----------



## Rich1955

htl said:


> *Playing with the wheels*
> 
> Playing with some wheels.
> 
> I didn't have anything wide enough so here's a how2 on what I do for it.
> Here I'm gluing up the wood.
> After spreading the glue I C clamp it side ways to be sure its flat and matches up then bar clamp at both ends.
> The c clamp holds it all in place as the bar clamps get clamped on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here using a 3" hole saw to make the out side rubber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next drilling out for the wheel rim and axle.
> I leave 1/8" at the base to hold the rim and axle together as I drill out for the spokes.
> This keeps everything lined up till it's all glued together.
> There's more info about this in my last spoke wheel build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On to the marking jig, I am marking out and testing for 18 spokes but we'll see what happens down the road.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After marking where the spokes will go I center punch the spots and then drill out the holes with a drill bit 2 sizes smaller than the spokes.
> This helps to line up ever thing for the bigger bit with out as much wandering bit wise.
> You also see where I used one of the cut outs to make a backer so I have some thing to hold the wheel in place for drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Eight holes drilled down and then in the next picture drilling the other angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then nipped off the tooth picks and we get an idea where I'm going with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One down 7 more to go. ;-]]]


wow, Nice work!


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Playing with the wheels*
> 
> Playing with some wheels.
> 
> I didn't have anything wide enough so here's a how2 on what I do for it.
> Here I'm gluing up the wood.
> After spreading the glue I C clamp it side ways to be sure its flat and matches up then bar clamp at both ends.
> The c clamp holds it all in place as the bar clamps get clamped on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here using a 3" hole saw to make the out side rubber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next drilling out for the wheel rim and axle.
> I leave 1/8" at the base to hold the rim and axle together as I drill out for the spokes.
> This keeps everything lined up till it's all glued together.
> There's more info about this in my last spoke wheel build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On to the marking jig, I am marking out and testing for 18 spokes but we'll see what happens down the road.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After marking where the spokes will go I center punch the spots and then drill out the holes with a drill bit 2 sizes smaller than the spokes.
> This helps to line up ever thing for the bigger bit with out as much wandering bit wise.
> You also see where I used one of the cut outs to make a backer so I have some thing to hold the wheel in place for drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Eight holes drilled down and then in the next picture drilling the other angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then nipped off the tooth picks and we get an idea where I'm going with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One down 7 more to go. ;-]]]


you are the master wheel maker here #4 nice looking wheels :<))))))))


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Playing with the wheels*
> 
> Playing with some wheels.
> 
> I didn't have anything wide enough so here's a how2 on what I do for it.
> Here I'm gluing up the wood.
> After spreading the glue I C clamp it side ways to be sure its flat and matches up then bar clamp at both ends.
> The c clamp holds it all in place as the bar clamps get clamped on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here using a 3" hole saw to make the out side rubber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next drilling out for the wheel rim and axle.
> I leave 1/8" at the base to hold the rim and axle together as I drill out for the spokes.
> This keeps everything lined up till it's all glued together.
> There's more info about this in my last spoke wheel build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On to the marking jig, I am marking out and testing for 18 spokes but we'll see what happens down the road.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After marking where the spokes will go I center punch the spots and then drill out the holes with a drill bit 2 sizes smaller than the spokes.
> This helps to line up ever thing for the bigger bit with out as much wandering bit wise.
> You also see where I used one of the cut outs to make a backer so I have some thing to hold the wheel in place for drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Eight holes drilled down and then in the next picture drilling the other angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then nipped off the tooth picks and we get an idea where I'm going with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One down 7 more to go. ;-]]]


The spokes are only half way done in these pictures, will look something like this when done, but a ton a work.
They won't be perfect but will add some interest to an already interesting project.
I spent the day adding 18 more spokes to each rim. lol


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Playing with the wheels*
> 
> Playing with some wheels.
> 
> I didn't have anything wide enough so here's a how2 on what I do for it.
> Here I'm gluing up the wood.
> After spreading the glue I C clamp it side ways to be sure its flat and matches up then bar clamp at both ends.
> The c clamp holds it all in place as the bar clamps get clamped on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here using a 3" hole saw to make the out side rubber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next drilling out for the wheel rim and axle.
> I leave 1/8" at the base to hold the rim and axle together as I drill out for the spokes.
> This keeps everything lined up till it's all glued together.
> There's more info about this in my last spoke wheel build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On to the marking jig, I am marking out and testing for 18 spokes but we'll see what happens down the road.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After marking where the spokes will go I center punch the spots and then drill out the holes with a drill bit 2 sizes smaller than the spokes.
> This helps to line up ever thing for the bigger bit with out as much wandering bit wise.
> You also see where I used one of the cut outs to make a backer so I have some thing to hold the wheel in place for drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Eight holes drilled down and then in the next picture drilling the other angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then nipped off the tooth picks and we get an idea where I'm going with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One down 7 more to go. ;-]]]


Man they look good Bruce but how did you get them chromed so quickly


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Playing with the wheels*
> 
> Playing with some wheels.
> 
> I didn't have anything wide enough so here's a how2 on what I do for it.
> Here I'm gluing up the wood.
> After spreading the glue I C clamp it side ways to be sure its flat and matches up then bar clamp at both ends.
> The c clamp holds it all in place as the bar clamps get clamped on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here using a 3" hole saw to make the out side rubber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next drilling out for the wheel rim and axle.
> I leave 1/8" at the base to hold the rim and axle together as I drill out for the spokes.
> This keeps everything lined up till it's all glued together.
> There's more info about this in my last spoke wheel build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On to the marking jig, I am marking out and testing for 18 spokes but we'll see what happens down the road.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After marking where the spokes will go I center punch the spots and then drill out the holes with a drill bit 2 sizes smaller than the spokes.
> This helps to line up ever thing for the bigger bit with out as much wandering bit wise.
> You also see where I used one of the cut outs to make a backer so I have some thing to hold the wheel in place for drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Eight holes drilled down and then in the next picture drilling the other angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then nipped off the tooth picks and we get an idea where I'm going with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One down 7 more to go. ;-]]]


I thought I already had given a comment, but when I went back I saw I didn't.

I like the way you are making this spokes! Very clever, and I like them.


----------



## toyguy

htl said:


> *Playing with the wheels*
> 
> Playing with some wheels.
> 
> I didn't have anything wide enough so here's a how2 on what I do for it.
> Here I'm gluing up the wood.
> After spreading the glue I C clamp it side ways to be sure its flat and matches up then bar clamp at both ends.
> The c clamp holds it all in place as the bar clamps get clamped on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here using a 3" hole saw to make the out side rubber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next drilling out for the wheel rim and axle.
> I leave 1/8" at the base to hold the rim and axle together as I drill out for the spokes.
> This keeps everything lined up till it's all glued together.
> There's more info about this in my last spoke wheel build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On to the marking jig, I am marking out and testing for 18 spokes but we'll see what happens down the road.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After marking where the spokes will go I center punch the spots and then drill out the holes with a drill bit 2 sizes smaller than the spokes.
> This helps to line up ever thing for the bigger bit with out as much wandering bit wise.
> You also see where I used one of the cut outs to make a backer so I have some thing to hold the wheel in place for drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Eight holes drilled down and then in the next picture drilling the other angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then nipped off the tooth picks and we get an idea where I'm going with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One down 7 more to go. ;-]]]


Nice explanation of your technique of spoke wheel making. Well done.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Playing with the wheels*
> 
> Playing with some wheels.
> 
> I didn't have anything wide enough so here's a how2 on what I do for it.
> Here I'm gluing up the wood.
> After spreading the glue I C clamp it side ways to be sure its flat and matches up then bar clamp at both ends.
> The c clamp holds it all in place as the bar clamps get clamped on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here using a 3" hole saw to make the out side rubber.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next drilling out for the wheel rim and axle.
> I leave 1/8" at the base to hold the rim and axle together as I drill out for the spokes.
> This keeps everything lined up till it's all glued together.
> There's more info about this in my last spoke wheel build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On to the marking jig, I am marking out and testing for 18 spokes but we'll see what happens down the road.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After marking where the spokes will go I center punch the spots and then drill out the holes with a drill bit 2 sizes smaller than the spokes.
> This helps to line up ever thing for the bigger bit with out as much wandering bit wise.
> You also see where I used one of the cut outs to make a backer so I have some thing to hold the wheel in place for drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Eight holes drilled down and then in the next picture drilling the other angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then nipped off the tooth picks and we get an idea where I'm going with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One down 7 more to go. ;-]]]


Yes these are a little different from my last spoked wheels [ they were cross over spoke pattern] as they were for the old fords these I'm trying to make to look more modern with a side by side with a wave to them.
I just counted up the steps for drilling and gluing not counting layout and there's 262 steps that must be made for one wheel.
Where's my nerve pills???


----------



## htl

*We got 5 wheels*

When I got to this point It hit me I could add some spokes between what I already have and come up with something a little different.









So here was my testing on a buggered up rim.
Looks to me like it just might work?













































I got 4 drilled up and tooth picks added Friday and just had to call it a day couldn't look at another spoke. lol
Today I went out and was working on the last wheel and my wife comes out and I show her what I'm up to and she says, *WHY DO YOU PUT YOUR SELF THOUGH THIS???*

All I could say was because I can but I don't think it will be happening again. LOL








Shaped and sanded.









They're a long way from perfect but should work on the Morgan.









#4 over and out!


----------



## Phil32

htl said:


> *We got 5 wheels*
> 
> When I got to this point It hit me I could add some spokes between what I already have and come up with something a little different.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here was my testing on a buggered up rim.
> Looks to me like it just might work?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got 4 drilled up and tooth picks added Friday and just had to call it a day couldn't look at another spoke. lol
> Today I went out and was working on the last wheel and my wife comes out and I show her what I'm up to and she says, *WHY DO YOU PUT YOUR SELF THOUGH THIS???*
> 
> All I could say was because I can but I don't think it will be happening again. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They're a long way from perfect but should work on the Morgan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #4 over and out!


On many welded wire spoke wheels (such as for Model A Fords - 1928 - 1931) the inner hub included the brake drum. The inside spokes were crossed & welded to the perimeter of the brake drum - 10 pairs. The ten outer spokes angled from the narrow part of the hub to the rim. So there were thirty spokes per wheel. The angled spokes were designed to handle the side forces of turns. Ford advertisements of that era showed how these wheels would support the car with as little as three spokes intact.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *We got 5 wheels*
> 
> When I got to this point It hit me I could add some spokes between what I already have and come up with something a little different.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here was my testing on a buggered up rim.
> Looks to me like it just might work?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got 4 drilled up and tooth picks added Friday and just had to call it a day couldn't look at another spoke. lol
> Today I went out and was working on the last wheel and my wife comes out and I show her what I'm up to and she says, *WHY DO YOU PUT YOUR SELF THOUGH THIS???*
> 
> All I could say was because I can but I don't think it will be happening again. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They're a long way from perfect but should work on the Morgan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #4 over and out!


Absolutely magnificent Bruce, they look so good!


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *We got 5 wheels*
> 
> When I got to this point It hit me I could add some spokes between what I already have and come up with something a little different.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here was my testing on a buggered up rim.
> Looks to me like it just might work?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got 4 drilled up and tooth picks added Friday and just had to call it a day couldn't look at another spoke. lol
> Today I went out and was working on the last wheel and my wife comes out and I show her what I'm up to and she says, *WHY DO YOU PUT YOUR SELF THOUGH THIS???*
> 
> All I could say was because I can but I don't think it will be happening again. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They're a long way from perfect but should work on the Morgan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #4 over and out!


These are realy spoke wheels.


----------



## Redoak49

htl said:


> *We got 5 wheels*
> 
> When I got to this point It hit me I could add some spokes between what I already have and come up with something a little different.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here was my testing on a buggered up rim.
> Looks to me like it just might work?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got 4 drilled up and tooth picks added Friday and just had to call it a day couldn't look at another spoke. lol
> Today I went out and was working on the last wheel and my wife comes out and I show her what I'm up to and she says, *WHY DO YOU PUT YOUR SELF THOUGH THIS???*
> 
> All I could say was because I can but I don't think it will be happening again. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They're a long way from perfect but should work on the Morgan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #4 over and out!


Nice design….takes a lot of effort and time to make them.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *We got 5 wheels*
> 
> When I got to this point It hit me I could add some spokes between what I already have and come up with something a little different.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here was my testing on a buggered up rim.
> Looks to me like it just might work?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got 4 drilled up and tooth picks added Friday and just had to call it a day couldn't look at another spoke. lol
> Today I went out and was working on the last wheel and my wife comes out and I show her what I'm up to and she says, *WHY DO YOU PUT YOUR SELF THOUGH THIS???*
> 
> All I could say was because I can but I don't think it will be happening again. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They're a long way from perfect but should work on the Morgan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #4 over and out!


too difficult for my big paws to handle :<))))))))


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *We got 5 wheels*
> 
> When I got to this point It hit me I could add some spokes between what I already have and come up with something a little different.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here was my testing on a buggered up rim.
> Looks to me like it just might work?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got 4 drilled up and tooth picks added Friday and just had to call it a day couldn't look at another spoke. lol
> Today I went out and was working on the last wheel and my wife comes out and I show her what I'm up to and she says, *WHY DO YOU PUT YOUR SELF THOUGH THIS???*
> 
> All I could say was because I can but I don't think it will be happening again. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They're a long way from perfect but should work on the Morgan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #4 over and out!


Me too Tony!!!
It won't be happening again, way to much work. 
I would have to work on a jig something like Redoak49's to mass produce all the drilling.
I said "All I could say was because I can" but I think a better way of looking at it was because I didn't know any better! ;-[


----------



## htl

*Wheels are done!*

I cut off the back supports and then it hit me I would like the front axle hubs a little farther in, but having cut out the backs was not sure how much the wheels could take.
I thought about drilling them but just one catch and I would be one unhappy camper, so I finally hit on using a router bit and plane it down.


















I couldn't go to far or the tooth picks would start showing up.

















Just had to see what it would look like. lol










#4 over and out


----------



## DavePolaschek

htl said:


> *Wheels are done!*
> 
> I cut off the back supports and then it hit me I would like the front axle hubs a little farther in, but having cut out the backs was not sure how much the wheels could take.
> I thought about drilling them but just one catch and I would be one unhappy camper, so I finally hit on using a router bit and plane it down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't go to far or the tooth picks would start showing up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just had to see what it would look like. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #4 over and out


Looks like those wheels will work, but I think they need more spokes. ;-)


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Wheels are done!*
> 
> I cut off the back supports and then it hit me I would like the front axle hubs a little farther in, but having cut out the backs was not sure how much the wheels could take.
> I thought about drilling them but just one catch and I would be one unhappy camper, so I finally hit on using a router bit and plane it down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't go to far or the tooth picks would start showing up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just had to see what it would look like. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #4 over and out


Those wheels look fantastic Bruce


----------



## Redoak49

htl said:


> *Wheels are done!*
> 
> I cut off the back supports and then it hit me I would like the front axle hubs a little farther in, but having cut out the backs was not sure how much the wheels could take.
> I thought about drilling them but just one catch and I would be one unhappy camper, so I finally hit on using a router bit and plane it down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't go to far or the tooth picks would start showing up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just had to see what it would look like. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #4 over and out


Looks great and fitting in all the toothpicks in is not an easy task.


----------



## htl

*Getting closer!*

From this 








To this

















Shaped sanded and glued up some big parts then started on the inside.
Sanding isn't much fun but you've got to get an appreciation for it to get a nice project.









I can never get enough wheel pictures. LOL


















Will be playing with the seats I think tomorrow.

#4 Over and out.


----------



## edleblanc257

htl said:


> *Getting closer!*
> 
> From this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped sanded and glued up some big parts then started on the inside.
> Sanding isn't much fun but you've got to get an appreciation for it to get a nice project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can never get enough wheel pictures. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will be playing with the seats I think tomorrow.
> 
> #4 Over and out.


That is absolutely amazing! If you truly love what you're doing, you don't work a day in your life!


----------



## hookfoot

htl said:


> *Getting closer!*
> 
> From this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped sanded and glued up some big parts then started on the inside.
> Sanding isn't much fun but you've got to get an appreciation for it to get a nice project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can never get enough wheel pictures. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will be playing with the seats I think tomorrow.
> 
> #4 Over and out.


Beautiful.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Getting closer!*
> 
> From this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped sanded and glued up some big parts then started on the inside.
> Sanding isn't much fun but you've got to get an appreciation for it to get a nice project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can never get enough wheel pictures. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will be playing with the seats I think tomorrow.
> 
> #4 Over and out.


classic wheels #4 :<)))))))))))


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Getting closer!*
> 
> From this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped sanded and glued up some big parts then started on the inside.
> Sanding isn't much fun but you've got to get an appreciation for it to get a nice project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can never get enough wheel pictures. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will be playing with the seats I think tomorrow.
> 
> #4 Over and out.


Looking so good Bruce, don't forget that the English put the steering wheel on the right hand side!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Getting closer!*
> 
> From this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped sanded and glued up some big parts then started on the inside.
> Sanding isn't much fun but you've got to get an appreciation for it to get a nice project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can never get enough wheel pictures. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will be playing with the seats I think tomorrow.
> 
> #4 Over and out.


I followed the plans, O!!! wait a minute I didn't did I *oopsy!!!*


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Getting closer!*
> 
> From this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped sanded and glued up some big parts then started on the inside.
> Sanding isn't much fun but you've got to get an appreciation for it to get a nice project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can never get enough wheel pictures. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will be playing with the seats I think tomorrow.
> 
> #4 Over and out.





> I followed the plans, O!!! wait a minute I didn t did I *oopsy!!!*
> 
> - htl


Didn't you?


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Getting closer!*
> 
> From this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped sanded and glued up some big parts then started on the inside.
> Sanding isn't much fun but you've got to get an appreciation for it to get a nice project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can never get enough wheel pictures. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will be playing with the seats I think tomorrow.
> 
> #4 Over and out.


Well I'll be, I did follow the plans now there's a first. LOL


----------



## sras

htl said:


> *Getting closer!*
> 
> From this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped sanded and glued up some big parts then started on the inside.
> Sanding isn't much fun but you've got to get an appreciation for it to get a nice project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can never get enough wheel pictures. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will be playing with the seats I think tomorrow.
> 
> #4 Over and out.


Looking good!


----------



## Budster

htl said:


> *Getting closer!*
> 
> From this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaped sanded and glued up some big parts then started on the inside.
> Sanding isn't much fun but you've got to get an appreciation for it to get a nice project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can never get enough wheel pictures. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will be playing with the seats I think tomorrow.
> 
> #4 Over and out.


Looking real good htj.


----------



## htl

*lights, seats, and, and *

seats


















lights


















wheels


















Just couldn't go with them white spokes this time. lol










The camera really doesn't like black.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *lights, seats, and, and *
> 
> seats
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lights
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> wheels
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just couldn't go with them white spokes this time. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The camera really doesn't like black.


I thought it was "lights, camera, action"…..
The detailing is looking good Bruce.


----------



## sras

htl said:


> *lights, seats, and, and *
> 
> seats
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lights
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wheels
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just couldn't go with them white spokes this time. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The camera really doesn't like black.


I like the black spoke option!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *lights, seats, and, and *
> 
> seats
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lights
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wheels
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just couldn't go with them white spokes this time. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The camera really doesn't like black.





> I like the black spoke option!
> 
> - sras


Thanks it took a lot a masking tape to cover up the rubber and a nerve pill for the paint but got it done. lol
Can't wait to get some Danish oil on the tires and see what we got.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *lights, seats, and, and *
> 
> seats
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lights
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wheels
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just couldn't go with them white spokes this time. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The camera really doesn't like black.


A lot of detail!


----------



## Rich1955

htl said:


> *lights, seats, and, and *
> 
> seats
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lights
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wheels
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just couldn't go with them white spokes this time. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The camera really doesn't like black.


Coming along great, can't wait to see the finished project!


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *lights, seats, and, and *
> 
> seats
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lights
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wheels
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just couldn't go with them white spokes this time. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The camera really doesn't like black.


i with rest cant wait till oil finish :<)))))))))))


----------



## htl

*Wheels and a sneak peek*

Wheels


















Needs one more coat, I had just glued up the wind screen so didn't want to weaken the joint with danish oil to soon.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Wheels and a sneak peek*
> 
> Wheels
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Needs one more coat, I had just glued up the wind screen so didn't want to weaken the joint with danish oil to soon.


Almost done.


----------



## Redoak49

htl said:


> *Wheels and a sneak peek*
> 
> Wheels
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Needs one more coat, I had just glued up the wind screen so didn't want to weaken the joint with danish oil to soon.


Looking Good


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Wheels and a sneak peek*
> 
> Wheels
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Needs one more coat, I had just glued up the wind screen so didn't want to weaken the joint with danish oil to soon.


Yes it's looking oh so good Bruce


----------



## Rich1955

htl said:


> *Wheels and a sneak peek*
> 
> Wheels
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Needs one more coat, I had just glued up the wind screen so didn't want to weaken the joint with danish oil to soon.


looks good!


----------



## ohgeez2

htl said:


> *Wheels and a sneak peek*
> 
> Wheels
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Needs one more coat, I had just glued up the wind screen so didn't want to weaken the joint with danish oil to soon.


Wow, Impressive.


----------



## htl

*Making an Octopus*

Wooden Octopus in the making.

















AS usual a ton a shaping and sanding to get it to this point. lol


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Making an Octopus*
> 
> Wooden Octopus in the making.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AS usual a ton a shaping and sanding to get it to this point. lol


Very cool Bruce!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Making an Octopus*
> 
> Wooden Octopus in the making.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AS usual a ton a shaping and sanding to get it to this point. lol


Got her finished.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Making an Octopus*
> 
> Wooden Octopus in the making.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AS usual a ton a shaping and sanding to get it to this point. lol





> Got her finished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - htl


The first photo looks almost scary as your octopus seems to be staring at me ready to run at me!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Making an Octopus*
> 
> Wooden Octopus in the making.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AS usual a ton a shaping and sanding to get it to this point. lol


All I can say is *hold your breath!!!*


----------



## htl

* "THE UNIMOG"*

I have been looking for a project to build and saw that Toys and Joys have come out with some new plans, 
and the 146 - "THE UNIMOG" got my attention.
So before biting the bullet and sending for the plans I went walk about seeing what ideas I could add to it, 
as you all know I can't stay to close to the plans for some reason.
Well searching for Unimogs I found one that really got my attention, now wouldn't that be fun to go mudding in?
And as you can tell, it's a long ways from the T&J plans.








So found some blue prints and played around with them and the first picture and we have a start . 

















I really meant to take start up pictures but between not having a ton a extra gumption and just the joy of being in the shop after so long I just kept working.




































This is the first time I have ever made the body before the frame so we'll see how that works out. lol

#4 over and out,


----------



## oldrivers

htl said:


> * "THE UNIMOG"*
> 
> I have been looking for a project to build and saw that Toys and Joys have come out with some new plans,
> and the 146 - "THE UNIMOG" got my attention.
> So before biting the bullet and sending for the plans I went walk about seeing what ideas I could add to it,
> as you all know I can't stay to close to the plans for some reason.
> Well searching for Unimogs I found one that really got my attention, now wouldn't that be fun to go mudding in?
> And as you can tell, it's a long ways from the T&J plans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So found some blue prints and played around with them and the first picture and we have a start .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really meant to take start up pictures but between not having a ton a extra gumption and just the joy of being in the shop after so long I just kept working.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the first time I have ever made the body before the frame so we'll see how that works out. lol
> 
> #4 over and out,


Go for it, You can do it


----------



## htl

htl said:


> * "THE UNIMOG"*
> 
> I have been looking for a project to build and saw that Toys and Joys have come out with some new plans,
> and the 146 - "THE UNIMOG" got my attention.
> So before biting the bullet and sending for the plans I went walk about seeing what ideas I could add to it,
> as you all know I can't stay to close to the plans for some reason.
> Well searching for Unimogs I found one that really got my attention, now wouldn't that be fun to go mudding in?
> And as you can tell, it's a long ways from the T&J plans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So found some blue prints and played around with them and the first picture and we have a start .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really meant to take start up pictures but between not having a ton a extra gumption and just the joy of being in the shop after so long I just kept working.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the first time I have ever made the body before the frame so we'll see how that works out. lol
> 
> #4 over and out,


I don't know I may have got in some deep deep mud this time and can't get out. LOL
Maybe I better make the winch a top priority???


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> * "THE UNIMOG"*
> 
> I have been looking for a project to build and saw that Toys and Joys have come out with some new plans,
> and the 146 - "THE UNIMOG" got my attention.
> So before biting the bullet and sending for the plans I went walk about seeing what ideas I could add to it,
> as you all know I can't stay to close to the plans for some reason.
> Well searching for Unimogs I found one that really got my attention, now wouldn't that be fun to go mudding in?
> And as you can tell, it's a long ways from the T&J plans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So found some blue prints and played around with them and the first picture and we have a start .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really meant to take start up pictures but between not having a ton a extra gumption and just the joy of being in the shop after so long I just kept working.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the first time I have ever made the body before the frame so we'll see how that works out. lol
> 
> #4 over and out,


Nice Bruce!


----------



## EricFai

htl said:


> * "THE UNIMOG"*
> 
> I have been looking for a project to build and saw that Toys and Joys have come out with some new plans,
> and the 146 - "THE UNIMOG" got my attention.
> So before biting the bullet and sending for the plans I went walk about seeing what ideas I could add to it,
> as you all know I can't stay to close to the plans for some reason.
> Well searching for Unimogs I found one that really got my attention, now wouldn't that be fun to go mudding in?
> And as you can tell, it's a long ways from the T&J plans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So found some blue prints and played around with them and the first picture and we have a start .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really meant to take start up pictures but between not having a ton a extra gumption and just the joy of being in the shop after so long I just kept working.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the first time I have ever made the body before the frame so we'll see how that works out. lol
> 
> #4 over and out,


Looks like you are off to a great start.


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> * "THE UNIMOG"*
> 
> I have been looking for a project to build and saw that Toys and Joys have come out with some new plans,
> and the 146 - "THE UNIMOG" got my attention.
> So before biting the bullet and sending for the plans I went walk about seeing what ideas I could add to it,
> as you all know I can't stay to close to the plans for some reason.
> Well searching for Unimogs I found one that really got my attention, now wouldn't that be fun to go mudding in?
> And as you can tell, it's a long ways from the T&J plans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So found some blue prints and played around with them and the first picture and we have a start .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really meant to take start up pictures but between not having a ton a extra gumption and just the joy of being in the shop after so long I just kept working.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the first time I have ever made the body before the frame so we'll see how that works out. lol
> 
> #4 over and out,


Not the prettiest of trucks but very heavy duty. 
Great start Bruce.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> * "THE UNIMOG"*
> 
> I have been looking for a project to build and saw that Toys and Joys have come out with some new plans,
> and the 146 - "THE UNIMOG" got my attention.
> So before biting the bullet and sending for the plans I went walk about seeing what ideas I could add to it,
> as you all know I can't stay to close to the plans for some reason.
> Well searching for Unimogs I found one that really got my attention, now wouldn't that be fun to go mudding in?
> And as you can tell, it's a long ways from the T&J plans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So found some blue prints and played around with them and the first picture and we have a start .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really meant to take start up pictures but between not having a ton a extra gumption and just the joy of being in the shop after so long I just kept working.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the first time I have ever made the body before the frame so we'll see how that works out. lol
> 
> #4 over and out,


To me it looks like a kids toy truck built for grown ups.
Now the Toys and Joys plans are for an *ugly truck. LOL*
And again *to me* this looks like it would be a great rescue truck for them truck trains in your neck of the woods Crowie. 
Just some thing quick and easy to build.


----------



## FrenchGoattoys

htl said:


> * "THE UNIMOG"*
> 
> I have been looking for a project to build and saw that Toys and Joys have come out with some new plans,
> and the 146 - "THE UNIMOG" got my attention.
> So before biting the bullet and sending for the plans I went walk about seeing what ideas I could add to it,
> as you all know I can't stay to close to the plans for some reason.
> Well searching for Unimogs I found one that really got my attention, now wouldn't that be fun to go mudding in?
> And as you can tell, it's a long ways from the T&J plans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So found some blue prints and played around with them and the first picture and we have a start .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really meant to take start up pictures but between not having a ton a extra gumption and just the joy of being in the shop after so long I just kept working.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the first time I have ever made the body before the frame so we'll see how that works out. lol
> 
> #4 over and out,





> Just some thing quick and easy to build.
> 
> - htl


Nothing is quick and easy in my shop. Nonetheless, excited to see the end product.


----------



## htl

htl said:


> * "THE UNIMOG"*
> 
> I have been looking for a project to build and saw that Toys and Joys have come out with some new plans,
> and the 146 - "THE UNIMOG" got my attention.
> So before biting the bullet and sending for the plans I went walk about seeing what ideas I could add to it,
> as you all know I can't stay to close to the plans for some reason.
> Well searching for Unimogs I found one that really got my attention, now wouldn't that be fun to go mudding in?
> And as you can tell, it's a long ways from the T&J plans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So found some blue prints and played around with them and the first picture and we have a start .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really meant to take start up pictures but between not having a ton a extra gumption and just the joy of being in the shop after so long I just kept working.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the first time I have ever made the body before the frame so we'll see how that works out. lol
> 
> #4 over and out,


FrenchGoattoys I guess I really* should have said fun where I said easy*, but after making some of these scroll saw projects I've been doing lately, where it takes hours to get one panel done , the truck is much easier on the nerves and eyes.









I've really come to have a better understanding of the capabilities of this truck after watching this video.


----------



## htl

*Got a little more done "THE UNIMOG"*

Finished out the inside so I could put on the roof and play with the roll bar.














































#4 over and out


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Got a little more done "THE UNIMOG"*
> 
> Finished out the inside so I could put on the roof and play with the roll bar.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #4 over and out


looking good #4 :<))))


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## edleblanc257

htl said:


> *Got a little more done "THE UNIMOG"*
> 
> Finished out the inside so I could put on the roof and play with the roll bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> #4 over and out


Very cool! Amazing talent and patience!


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## htl

htl said:


> *Got a little more done "THE UNIMOG"*
> 
> Finished out the inside so I could put on the roof and play with the roll bar.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> #4 over and out


Thanks Tony and edleblanc that roll bar was a real head scratchier. LOL


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## sras

htl said:


> *Got a little more done "THE UNIMOG"*
> 
> Finished out the inside so I could put on the roof and play with the roll bar.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> #4 over and out


Nice progress!


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## crowie

htl said:


> *Got a little more done "THE UNIMOG"*
> 
> Finished out the inside so I could put on the roof and play with the roll bar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> #4 over and out





> Thanks Tony and edleblanc that roll bar was a real head scratchier. LOL
> 
> - htl


BUT no splinters Bruce, just a good result


----------



## htl

*Got a little more done #2 "THE UNIMOG"*

Need to figure out the axles and front & back bumpers, also a fuel tank steps combo maybe as this is one high stepping truck ..


























These are some left over tires from the delivery truck, ak Race car hauler, will probable use the tires and make new rims that will match up better with the truck pictures.









#4 over and out


----------



## Redoak49

htl said:


> *Got a little more done #2 "THE UNIMOG"*
> 
> Need to figure out the axles and front & back bumpers, also a fuel tank steps combo maybe as this is one high stepping truck ..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> These are some left over tires from the delivery truck, ak Race car hauler, will probable use the tires and make new rims that will match up better with the truck pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #4 over and out


The wheels are incredible !


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## FrenchGoattoys

htl said:


> *Got a little more done #2 "THE UNIMOG"*
> 
> Need to figure out the axles and front & back bumpers, also a fuel tank steps combo maybe as this is one high stepping truck ..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> These are some left over tires from the delivery truck, ak Race car hauler, will probable use the tires and make new rims that will match up better with the truck pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #4 over and out


That looks great


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Got a little more done #2 "THE UNIMOG"*
> 
> Need to figure out the axles and front & back bumpers, also a fuel tank steps combo maybe as this is one high stepping truck ..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are some left over tires from the delivery truck, ak Race car hauler, will probable use the tires and make new rims that will match up better with the truck pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #4 over and out


everyday it looks better #4 :<))))))))


----------



## EricFai

htl said:


> *Got a little more done #2 "THE UNIMOG"*
> 
> Need to figure out the axles and front & back bumpers, also a fuel tank steps combo maybe as this is one high stepping truck ..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are some left over tires from the delivery truck, ak Race car hauler, will probable use the tires and make new rims that will match up better with the truck pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #4 over and out


That is looking good, a lot of details from the tires to the rails on the bed.


----------



## htl

*Getting the wheels and rims ready*

It's time to play with the rims, the tires are left over from a build way back.
I'm going to take out the walnut rims that really don't fit in with this type truck and there's just not room for lug nuts and we just have to have a few lug nut to get the right feel. lol









Here's what I got to work with just needed to drill a few holes in these left over rims.
Since I'm going to set up the jigs for this I might as well make ten extras for the next time I need some 
this should only add a hour or so to do so will be really happy with myself the next time I need some rims.









Here is a blog about making these wheels and rims. Be sure to click over to the next blog post [it's a two parter] for more on those rims and tires.
You'll see pictures of the tires I will be redoing for a little better look.
https://www.lumberjocks.com/htl/blog/131201










Here's a picture of the store bought tires [1 1/2"] I use to make these rims, they have some nice details and saves me a ton a work, and are pretty cheap on Amazon.









The dowels I used are just a little bigger than tooth picks found them at Wally world by the plastic bag, way cheap and just the right size.









This should give us the look we want with out to much trouble.








The finished project is here.


----------



## Dutchy

htl said:


> *Getting the wheels and rims ready*
> 
> It's time to play with the rims, the tires are left over from a build way back.
> I'm going to take out the walnut rims that really don't fit in with this type truck and there's just not room for lug nuts and we just have to have a few lug nut to get the right feel. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what I got to work with just needed to drill a few holes in these left over rims.
> Since I'm going to set up the jigs for this I might as well make ten extras for the next time I need some
> this should only add a hour or so to do so will be really happy with myself the next time I need some rims.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a blog about making these wheels and rims. Be sure to click over to the next blog post [it's a two parter] for more on those rims and tires.
> You'll see pictures of the tires I will be redoing for a little better look.
> https://www.lumberjocks.com/htl/blog/131201
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a picture of the store bought tires [1 1/2"] I use to make these rims, they have some nice details and saves me a ton a work, and are pretty cheap on Amazon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dowels I used are just a little bigger than tooth picks found them at Wally world by the plastic bag, way cheap and just the right size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should give us the look we want with out to much trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished project is here.


Nice #4


----------



## crowie

htl said:


> *Getting the wheels and rims ready*
> 
> It's time to play with the rims, the tires are left over from a build way back.
> I'm going to take out the walnut rims that really don't fit in with this type truck and there's just not room for lug nuts and we just have to have a few lug nut to get the right feel. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what I got to work with just needed to drill a few holes in these left over rims.
> Since I'm going to set up the jigs for this I might as well make ten extras for the next time I need some
> this should only add a hour or so to do so will be really happy with myself the next time I need some rims.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a blog about making these wheels and rims. Be sure to click over to the next blog post [it's a two parter] for more on those rims and tires.
> You'll see pictures of the tires I will be redoing for a little better look.
> https://www.lumberjocks.com/htl/blog/131201
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a picture of the store bought tires [1 1/2"] I use to make these rims, they have some nice details and saves me a ton a work, and are pretty cheap on Amazon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dowels I used are just a little bigger than tooth picks found them at Wally world by the plastic bag, way cheap and just the right size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should give us the look we want with out to much trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished project is here.





> Nice #4
> 
> - Dutchy


Now that's a huge compliment from Dutch, but it's one "master" saying to another "master" WELL DONE!


----------



## htl

htl said:


> *Getting the wheels and rims ready*
> 
> It's time to play with the rims, the tires are left over from a build way back.
> I'm going to take out the walnut rims that really don't fit in with this type truck and there's just not room for lug nuts and we just have to have a few lug nut to get the right feel. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what I got to work with just needed to drill a few holes in these left over rims.
> Since I'm going to set up the jigs for this I might as well make ten extras for the next time I need some
> this should only add a hour or so to do so will be really happy with myself the next time I need some rims.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a blog about making these wheels and rims. Be sure to click over to the next blog post [it's a two parter] for more on those rims and tires.
> You'll see pictures of the tires I will be redoing for a little better look.
> https://www.lumberjocks.com/htl/blog/131201
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a picture of the store bought tires [1 1/2"] I use to make these rims, they have some nice details and saves me a ton a work, and are pretty cheap on Amazon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dowels I used are just a little bigger than tooth picks found them at Wally world by the plastic bag, way cheap and just the right size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should give us the look we want with out to much trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished project is here.


Thanks Crowie and Dutchy, you know me I love making wheels. ;-]]]]


----------



## Northwest29

htl said:


> *Getting the wheels and rims ready*
> 
> It's time to play with the rims, the tires are left over from a build way back.
> I'm going to take out the walnut rims that really don't fit in with this type truck and there's just not room for lug nuts and we just have to have a few lug nut to get the right feel. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what I got to work with just needed to drill a few holes in these left over rims.
> Since I'm going to set up the jigs for this I might as well make ten extras for the next time I need some
> this should only add a hour or so to do so will be really happy with myself the next time I need some rims.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a blog about making these wheels and rims. Be sure to click over to the next blog post [it's a two parter] for more on those rims and tires.
> You'll see pictures of the tires I will be redoing for a little better look.
> https://www.lumberjocks.com/htl/blog/131201
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a picture of the store bought tires [1 1/2"] I use to make these rims, they have some nice details and saves me a ton a work, and are pretty cheap on Amazon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dowels I used are just a little bigger than tooth picks found them at Wally world by the plastic bag, way cheap and just the right size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should give us the look we want with out to much trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished project is here.


Wow, that's a lot of work on the wheels/rims. Looks great.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

htl said:


> *Getting the wheels and rims ready*
> 
> It's time to play with the rims, the tires are left over from a build way back.
> I'm going to take out the walnut rims that really don't fit in with this type truck and there's just not room for lug nuts and we just have to have a few lug nut to get the right feel. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what I got to work with just needed to drill a few holes in these left over rims.
> Since I'm going to set up the jigs for this I might as well make ten extras for the next time I need some
> this should only add a hour or so to do so will be really happy with myself the next time I need some rims.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> Here is a blog about making these wheels and rims. Be sure to click over to the next blog post [it's a two parter] for more on those rims and tires.
> You'll see pictures of the tires I will be redoing for a little better look.
> https://www.lumberjocks.com/htl/blog/131201
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> Here's a picture of the store bought tires [1 1/2"] I use to make these rims, they have some nice details and saves me a ton a work, and are pretty cheap on Amazon.
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> The dowels I used are just a little bigger than tooth picks found them at Wally world by the plastic bag, way cheap and just the right size.
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> This should give us the look we want with out to much trouble.
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> The finished project is here.


your wheels and tires are always top notch #4 :<))))))))))


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