# Craftex 18" bandsaw review



## Robb

Nice, thanks for the review, Bob! I haven't seen Craftex talked about much here or elsewhere.


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## toyguy

I like a lot of the Craftex stuff. This looks like a great saw. I will be sure to have a look next time I'm at a busy bee.


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## Tikka

This looks very similar to the Delta 18" I have - with minor cosmetic differences. I agree a light to illuminat the work area would be a definite advantage. Once set up correctly, with a good blade (Lenox Carbide tipped blade) resawing 12" oak 8' long is no problems.


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## teenagewoodworker

thanks bob i also haven't ever heard about that saw before. when it comes time for my first bandsaw i think I'll upgrade to that so i can resaw without swinging for a Rikon. thanks for the post.


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## boboswin

If I can show you one thing it should be this:
Do your homework carefully and make sure that each tool you buy will do all you ask and that you can afford to have it.

Eventually you will have a fully equipped shop and the knowledge to run those tools to the max.

Good luck with your venture.

Bob


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## Hawgnutz

Bob, where are Craftex sold?

God Bless,
Hawg


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## boboswin

This is the Canadian equivalent of your Grizzly stores across the border.

Bob

http://busybeetools.ca/cgi-bin/product10?&NMCLASS=00109&NSBCLASS=00119&NETID=1302390517081893673


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## WadeP

Good looking saw.
What is the resaw and rip capacity?


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## boboswin

Hi Wade:
The rip capaicity is 18" or just under while the resaw is right around 12".
There is just enough power (2hp) for the full height and I need a good blade at that thickness too.
I've been using woodmizers ( highland hardware) recently with good success.

Bob


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## Beginningwoodworker

That looks like a nice bandsaw.


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## boboswin

*i'm moving it this week and I hate it!* <vbg>

It's 450 lbs and rock solid.

Of course I'm going to love it agian once we get it moved.

When you move your shop you see your entire life flash before your eyes!

Bob


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## LucasinBC

Hi there Bob,

First of all - nice review and thanks for all the photos!

I'm chiming in late to your blog, but I came across it when I was looking for reviews on the Craftex bandsaws. I also live in Canada (in BC) and I agree with your assessment that Busy Bee/Craftex is the Canadian equivalent to Grizzly insofar that the majority of their equipment is made overseas, mostly in China and Taiwan, and are reasonably priced below the more popular high-end machines (Powermatic, Laguna, GI, etc.) I actually live pretty close to the border, so for me to go to Grizzly and import a bandsaw it's not that much of a chore, but I am hoping to get a local bandsaw to save me the trouble of importation, duty, etc.

To be honest with you, I have not read a single positive review on Craftex bandsaws, let alone all their other tools and machines, other than yours. I have read a number of relatively "neutral" reviews, so I am somewhat hesitant in purchasing one of their machines. The majority of reviews I have read are really negative, stating quality problems, poor machine performance, etc.

That being said, I am a hobbyist at best - a weekend woodworker at worst. I don't have a shop - I have a garage, and I don't ever plan on making woodworking a profession (IE actually make my living off working wood.) Right now the CT082 16" 2HP bandsaw is on sale until the end of March for $665 - normally it's $850. I am very much inclined to go for it seeing as it would suit all my needs…assuming it's not as horrible as all the negative reviews I have read.

Seeing as you posted this about two years ago - could you fill me in on how you like the machine now that you've owned it for a good amount of time? Are you still happy with it? Has it crapped out on you or have you had to get it fixed or repaired?

Thanks!
Lucas


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## boboswin

Hi Lucas:
It's difficult for me to draw any comparisons with Grizzly, laguna etc as I have no experience with them.
When I purchased this saw it was the best value for the dollar around,
I was using a 14" off shore BS that was giving me more trouble than it was worth due to it's power and size.
The 18" 2 hp motor addressed that. The table on the Crafttex needs constant adjustment as it does not remain level despite tightening the handles. I will eventually put a bolt in the inside of the table e to prevent tipping but for now I just moan and tilt.
The bearings on the guides are of poor quality and I have replaced them one at a time. They are not expensive but a PIA. 
With a "wood slicer" blade on this saw it performs very well allowing my a 12" cut at about 1/8" or bragging 1/16" veneers.
Would I buy it again? 
Maybe.
The service policy at Busy Bee is not exactly what I am going to get used to so I don't feel any allegiance to go back there for their brand.
It may be different at other branches but here the service was pretty much non existant.
Any time I have gone there for parts the answer is "you call head office"

If I have to call myself them I have no idea what the staff is there for.

Good luck with your purchase.


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## LucasinBC

Hi Bob,

Thanks for the update. I had heard that the table and guides were of poor quality, so I suppose I'm not too surprised by your comments. That's too bad about the customer service- one thing that I constantly read about Grizzly is their great customer service. I have purchased a jointer from them in the past and I was thoroughly impressed. The only thing that I can see that Craftex has over Grizzly is that their products come with a 2 or 3 yr waranty, while Grizzly only offers a one year warranty.

I have only been to the New Westminster BC location once, and I have to admit that I was not impressed. The store looks pretty cluttered and only one of the employees seemed to know or care about woodworking. I asked if they had any card scrapers and they looked at me like I was from a different planet.

All that being said, I am in the market for a "Ford" and not necessarily a "Lincoln" in terms of a bandsaw, so I am still considering the Craftex. Judging by your comments, it's likely easier to live with a bandsaw that needs occasional maintenance and adjusting than an underpowered 14" BS that can't do what you want it to do!

Decisions' decisions! Thanks for the insight.
Lucas


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## boboswin

If you do go with the Craftex make them set it up and run it in the store before you take possesion.
It's a lot easier to check out a saw at their shop rather than try to get some help at yours to solve a problem.
If you do that you should get a reasomable bandsaw at a reasonable price.
p.s. make sure the rollers on the Carter style guides close to the width of the blade.
Mine did not and required lots of fiddling to make them touch and remain co planar from top to bottom.

Good Luck

Bob


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## LucasinBC

Again - thanks for the tip Bob. I think I'm going to take the plunge and go with the Craftex. Worst case scenario, when the warranty is up I'll just have to ditch it and get a new one. Plain and simple. The bottom line is that there are nightmare stories with all the lower end BS models, and unfortunately I am in no position, and have no real excuse, to pay upwards of 1K for a BS. Besides, I just found out that Craftex and Grizzly tools are built in the same factories overseas. Grizzly and Busy Bee have a no-competition agreement with each other, which tells me enough. Since the CT082 is on sale right now, I'm gonna go for it. I'll be sure to post a review.

PS- where did you go to purchase the replacement guides?


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## boboswin

I use mine almost every day for routine cuts and about an hour a month of resawing.
It's holding up well except for the aforementioned nigglies.
The guide bearing are standard issue just take one with you as BB doesn't have the specs in their manual.
I got the last ones at Princess auto for about $2.00 each.

Any bearing shop will have them. 
TPC or Gregg distributos is a good bet too.
Busy Bee does not stock any parts it seems and you have to order them from Toronto then go back to the store to pick them up.
I find that annoying.

Cheers
Bob

Bob


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## LucasinBC

Hi Bob,

Seeing as you've owned this machien for a while - have you ever had problems with the motor heating up? I'm going to pick mine up this week but I noticed at the last minute that the Craftex machines call for a 230v/50Hz outlet. Did you have to tinker with the power or does it run fine out of a 240v outlet with the 60hz frequency? I just posted a blog asking if anyone knows anything about the Hz issue…I have zero knowledge on the subject.

Thanks,


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## boboswin

Lucas, that's just U.S. jargon for the same power requirements here of 220 volt /60HZ.
As far as I know the rating is just and approximation of the local power and rarley will you be able to pull the power as listed on the certification.

You wont have problems with this at all.

Good luck on your new purchase.

Bob


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## LucasinBC

Hi Bob,

Good to hear, Im starting to think that Craftex cheaped out and just sent the European manual to N America because the actual machine says 220v / 60HZ, although as you say that is all likely an approximation.

Thanks again,
Lucas


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## boboswin

Not to worry Lucas.
I have bought and sold electrical devices from Canada and the U.S. for more than 50 years.
That is just not a problem and if you are in doubt run it by a sparky to be sure.


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## woodmanb11

Hi Bob.

I just purchased the Craftex CT103N and found it to be a decent saw. It was set up fairly well right out of the box for me. I did encounter a few problems though. In my shop (Garage) I have a dedicated 220V circuit for all the big tools (Jointer, Table Saw, Planer) Those tools have the same plug. I put the same plug on the band saw when I got it home. I know, I know…..there goes the warranty. Of course with my luck, the saw did not start. It was not through any fault of mine, but, as an industrial electrician who checked it out for me ,at considerable cost I might add, he told me that it was a defective E-stop switch. So I replaced the E-stop. Now the saw starts right up and cuts beautifully with the blade that came with it.

Then I installed a 1" blade to do some resawing a 6" board of Bocote. I tensioned the blade, but, when I turned the saw on there was a fair amount of vibration and the blade would not track well. So I checked to see that the wheels were co-planar. They were not. I backed off all the guides and leaving tension on I took a 6' straight edge and placed as close to the centre of the wheels and began to adjust the top wheel to make it co-planar. With the adjustment screws at the back of the saw adjusted all the way in, the closest I could get to co-planar is that the top wheel contacts the straight edge at both the top and bottom of it, but the bottom wheel only contacts the straight edge at the bottom of it. the top edge of the bottom wheel is not touching the straight edge by approx 3/16 to a 1/4". It looks to me like if I were to shim the BOTTOM wheel out I could achieve a co-planar state.

Soooo….. I guess what I am asking,... Can the lower wheel be shimmed out or adjusted at all?

P.S. The saw did track better, but not great, and I did manage to resaw the wood, but, not with the greatest of results. Also, vibration was pretty well gone.


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## boboswin

Shim out the bottom wheel according to your measurement (3/16 to a 1/4". ) . Use your straight edge to determine this. 
Now go back and reset your upper wheel to make it coplanar with the new postion of the lower wheel.
For resawing get a 3/4" woodslicer blade from Highland hardware. They cut cleaner and with less tension.
I dont regularly post here anymore but thought I should try to help out as I had recommended this tool previously and the manual is sub par.


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## boboswin

*Here's a classic example of why I never post here anymore.

This dude with the fictitious name and absolutely no credentials whatsoever on his home page has managed to send me a direct question to my mail box.

When I responded I presumed he had been on Lj's' a while but found today that he apparently only registered enough to propose his question and then scoot.

Along with several other niggles I have decided to not respond to any poster that has no credentials, no address, no location, no projects, and apparently in this case, no google abilities.

This is a waste of my time and serves only the selfish poster.

Not even a thanks for the info!*


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## woodmanb11

Hi Bob.
Thank you ….. I think. I'm sorry I didn't 
respond immediately, but, I couldn't. In any 
event. I haven't had time to try shimming the
wheel yet either. I work 12 hour shifts, so my 
time is condensed for the things I have to do.

I'm going to try and shim the wheel 
today sometime. Not sure when, but, I'll let
you know how it works out.

Again thanks for the info. I do use these forums as
a knowledge base, but I ALWAYS thank the people
for the advice.
Thanks,
Frank
P.S. I have the ability to google and have used it. When I
googled the question "Can the lowere wheel on 
the Craftex CT103N be shimmed out?" , This forum
was where it suggested I'd find my answer. It was
in the top 4 I'd say suggestions.


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## woodmanb11

Hi Bob.

Looks like I need the metric 1" wrench to get the wheel loosened. The 1" wrench is slightly too small. So, in the mean time I took your advice and ordered the blade yo suggested. $38.00. Not too bad. I did however purchase a generic 3/4" blade and set it up. WOW!! Huge difference. For some reason the wheels are now nearly perfectly co-planar and it makes significantly less noise. The 1" blade seemed to rattle against the frame. Though I did find out that you don't need near as much tension on these big blades. Again. Thanks so much. Over time I will build my profile, it's just that I have barely enough time to even work in my shop let alone type at a computer.
Frank is also my real name. not fictitious. I normally don't make a whole lot of personal info public. Call me paranoid. Not saying that anyone in these forums would use the info for no good, but, not all people who use the internet are looking for woodworking advice, some are just looking to abuse the trusting nature of most people. So, if I've offended you, my apologies. Not my intent.

Sincerely,
Frank


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## boboswin

Frank, you are one in a million. It sounds like the pressure from the tensioning was too much for the saw frams and it bowed letting your wheels go out of plane.
I would turn the blade by hand and determine where it is scraping on the frame. If it isn't that then try running the blade without the bearing guides touching. The manual doesn't say it but the bearings should not touch the blade when the saw is idling without being in a cut. In my case it turned out that all the bearings were noisy (substandard). When I changed them out the noise disappeared.

I appreciate your comming forward with a response to my rant which may seem a bit harsh. 
My experience here has been in many instances that I'm just a free consultant with the benefits thereof going to the site owner and it's advertisers and just an extra burden for myself. 
I've decided to spend that time in my little shop instead.

Cheers

Bob


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## woodmanb11

Hi Bob.
Not a problem. I'm maybe 2 to 10 years until retirement. I guess it all depends when everyone leaves the wife and I alone. Until then my shop and my hobby have to take a back seat unfortunately. My shop is so full of our kids and their kids stuff, it takes me 10 minutes to clear a path to my table saw! I was supposed to finish a pair of nice jewelry boxes for Christmas, now it looks like Valentines day! When I do finish them I'll post a pic. They're made of Bocote & Birdseye maple.

Enjoy your shop Bob. You have no idea the feeling I have when I look in my garage and long for the day when I can use it as a shop without tripping over my grand kids toys, and general junk….sigh.
Oh well here's to a clean functioning shop… Cheers! Night shift tomorrow night.
Frank


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