# Edge cuts aren't square



## roughcuts (Dec 1, 2016)

Hey guys. I am using 2" - 4" lumber for my dining tables. I have a Makita 16-5/16" Circular Saw. I built a jig using a straight edge on top of a piece of MDF. I square the edge off, and them put the two pieces i will be gluing together on the jig. I run the saw down the cut. The visible side of the joint meshes up perfect. However, one the bottom, there is a noticeable gap. Any ideas to get the joint seamless on top and bottom? Thanks


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## woodbutcherbynight (Oct 21, 2011)

Check your blade for being square to the base vertically. Sounds like the blade is slightly out at the bottom of your cuts.


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## roughcuts (Dec 1, 2016)

I checked it with a square and it looked good. I confirmed it with a digital angle gauge and it was good. Im wondering if the board that wasn't under the jig wasn't sitting as flat as adjacent board?


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

Or your saw has a bunch of runout.


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## gmc (Jun 30, 2012)

my circular saw was off 5 degrees vertically that i could not correct. It must have gotten dropped and i either forgot or my son used it and didn't tell me. This is the exact problem i found was boards wouldn't be square to each other. Try a different saw even if you have to borrow one would be the quickest way to check. Good luck


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## LittleShaver (Sep 14, 2016)

Did you try flipping one of the boards?


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## roughcuts (Dec 1, 2016)

I will give it a try and see if that works. The one thing i know for sure is that i have to use the short side of the saw base on the jig. The boards I'm using are 6" or less wide and the edge from the base plate to the blade is about 5.5". when i clamp the jig to the board, it wants to roll. I will take pictures to give you a better idea of my setup. Hopefully you guys have some ideas as to how I can improve it.


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## roughcuts (Dec 1, 2016)

I ended up building a carriage for the 16" Makita. There were too many variables using the previous method. Tested it and cut dead square. It wasn't exactly level/cutting square, so i had to bevel the saw to compensate, checked it with my digital angle. Thanks for the input fellas


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## woodbutcherbynight (Oct 21, 2011)

Practical solution, and it works. Nice.


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## DirtyMike (Dec 6, 2015)

No bevel on the saw horse legs?


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

Are you getting a glue line rip with the setup you have? I only ask because I have one of the Makita big boys too and I've only used it for cross cuts and maybe short (< 12") rips on larger timbers. I wouldn't have guessed it would be good for much more.


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## jerryminer (Jun 15, 2014)

I'm glad you were able to get good enough cuts. That saw is really a rough carpentry tool, not typical for furniture work.

When you get a jointer, you'll never look back


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

Pretty difficult to build furniture with a skilsaw.


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