# Shop built Sliding table for Tablesaw



## todd628 (Sep 4, 2013)

*Building a sliding table for my Grizzly tablesaw*

I have been wanting a sliding table for my tablesaw for quite some time. The thing that has kept me from starting this project has been the bearing system. I also have been researching a shop built CNC, and that is 
where I got the Idea for my linear bearings.

This is the sliding Table mostly done










This is the bearing system I decided to use:



















To make these bearings I started with some 3/4" aluminum I found at the scrap yard.










First I cut all the aluminum 2" X 6" on the table saw. I then cleaned the blanks, the long edges I ran across
my jointer. Then cleaned the blanks up on the disc sander and my belt edge sander.
For the center bearing grooves I started with setting up the drill press, the fence so that I was drilling as close to exactly to the center as possible. I then set a stop block to drill back in from the end 1". After drilling 5/16" holes in 10 bearing blanks, I went back to the table saw and with the help of my TS sled, I set it up to cut with
the blank standing on end and to meet the edge of the hole already drilled. After that I would unclamp and rotate the piece (with out flipping end for end) and make the second cut allowing the center waste to fall away.
then I flipped it end for end and made the second 2 cuts in the same way. I repeated this for all 10 of the bearing blanks. The blanks will become what is called a bearing truck so I will call it the BT from now on.

Please continue to check back as I continue to explain the build. Also I do not type so I put a great deal of effort into a long entry like this.

I do not know if I will get back to this tonight, but it will be soon.

Thank you all for looking, and comments are encouraging, Todd


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## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

todd628 said:


> *Building a sliding table for my Grizzly tablesaw*
> 
> I have been wanting a sliding table for my tablesaw for quite some time. The thing that has kept me from starting this project has been the bearing system. I also have been researching a shop built CNC, and that is
> where I got the Idea for my linear bearings.
> ...


What kind of blade do you use on a tablesaw to cut 3/4" aluminum? I'll bet the sparks really fly when you're doing that.


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## todd628 (Sep 4, 2013)

todd628 said:


> *Building a sliding table for my Grizzly tablesaw*
> 
> I have been wanting a sliding table for my tablesaw for quite some time. The thing that has kept me from starting this project has been the bearing system. I also have been researching a shop built CNC, and that is
> where I got the Idea for my linear bearings.
> ...


No sparks Joe, it cuts like butter with just a plain Steel blade. But I did not have any to fit my TS so I just used the 40 tooth ATB I had in the saw. It cuts pretty much like wood. It does heat up a little with carbide, but with a plain steel blade it does not even heat up. Aluminum is really pretty cool to work with, you can work it pretty much like wood. I have even put it through my planer. I would not do that but I have carbide inserts and It does not seem to bother it at all.

Thanks for commenting Joe, Have a great day, Todd


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## RPhillips (May 16, 2013)

todd628 said:


> *Building a sliding table for my Grizzly tablesaw*
> 
> I have been wanting a sliding table for my tablesaw for quite some time. The thing that has kept me from starting this project has been the bearing system. I also have been researching a shop built CNC, and that is
> where I got the Idea for my linear bearings.
> ...


Nice, look forward to seeing the finished product.


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## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

todd628 said:


> *Building a sliding table for my Grizzly tablesaw*
> 
> I have been wanting a sliding table for my tablesaw for quite some time. The thing that has kept me from starting this project has been the bearing system. I also have been researching a shop built CNC, and that is
> where I got the Idea for my linear bearings.
> ...


Interesting build. I have always been intrigued by a sliding table.

Your trucks remind me of these. You saved a lot of money, but these are adjustable.
http://www.cncrouterparts.com/extended-linear-carriage-with-abec-7-bearings-p-35.html

Steve


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## todd628 (Sep 4, 2013)

todd628 said:


> *Building a sliding table for my Grizzly tablesaw*
> 
> I have been wanting a sliding table for my tablesaw for quite some time. The thing that has kept me from starting this project has been the bearing system. I also have been researching a shop built CNC, and that is
> where I got the Idea for my linear bearings.
> ...


Steve, I actually used a PDF file of theirs to get me going on these trucks.
Thanks, Todd


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## playingwithmywood (Jan 10, 2014)

todd628 said:


> *Building a sliding table for my Grizzly tablesaw*
> 
> I have been wanting a sliding table for my tablesaw for quite some time. The thing that has kept me from starting this project has been the bearing system. I also have been researching a shop built CNC, and that is
> where I got the Idea for my linear bearings.
> ...


I would love to see a video of you sending aluminum through your planner or the aluminum across your jointer


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## SCOTSMAN (Aug 1, 2008)

todd628 said:


> *Building a sliding table for my Grizzly tablesaw*
> 
> I have been wanting a sliding table for my tablesaw for quite some time. The thing that has kept me from starting this project has been the bearing system. I also have been researching a shop built CNC, and that is
> where I got the Idea for my linear bearings.
> ...


Aluminium cuts, just like any hardwood and no sparks.It is really safe and easy to cut even on a bandsaw really, I do it all the time your project is a very clever idea.I bought a very heavy duty sliding table saw made by my favourite firm Wadkin.Mine does not have the three and a half metre table it actually has exactly the same set up with a sliding table of just over two metres as the big table is not needed by me neither do I really have the room it needs to operate either.This one I bought is called a dimension saw not a panel saw,which has thew full length table, and has a main motor of seven and a half horse power and a maximum blade of sixteen inches.It Also comes with another motor of two horse power for the scoring blade which is designed to eliminate breakout of the woodfibres and makes an ecellent cut on even plywood and melamine faced kitchen worktops with no furring or chips om the plastic coated worktops .Your set up is a very clever idea I wish you lots of fun with it.Alistair


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## todd628 (Sep 4, 2013)

todd628 said:


> *Building a sliding table for my Grizzly tablesaw*
> 
> I have been wanting a sliding table for my tablesaw for quite some time. The thing that has kept me from starting this project has been the bearing system. I also have been researching a shop built CNC, and that is
> where I got the Idea for my linear bearings.
> ...


Well Playingwithwood, I don't even have the camera mastered for still shots. I would probably have better luck making a video camera out of wood than using one. The best thing about cutting aluminum is that it actually cuts better with cheap HSS blades and cutters.

Alister, are you busting my chops or have you cut aluminum?
If I had the money I would have bought one of the big saws a number of years ago. I did get a kick out of sizing a sheet of plywood today, it was awesome.

Thanks guys and have a great evening, Todd


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## perfectcut12 (Mar 8, 2017)

todd628 said:


> *Building a sliding table for my Grizzly tablesaw*
> 
> I have been wanting a sliding table for my tablesaw for quite some time. The thing that has kept me from starting this project has been the bearing system. I also have been researching a shop built CNC, and that is
> where I got the Idea for my linear bearings.
> ...


Tod, What is the shape of the aluminum rails that the bearings ride on? where did you aquire them? I looked carefully at the pictures but I couldn't tell !!!


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## perfectcut12 (Mar 8, 2017)

todd628 said:


> *Building a sliding table for my Grizzly tablesaw*
> 
> I have been wanting a sliding table for my tablesaw for quite some time. The thing that has kept me from starting this project has been the bearing system. I also have been researching a shop built CNC, and that is
> where I got the Idea for my linear bearings.
> ...


Tod , Is there a chance that you can post a close-up picture(s) of the rails? I really like your project!! I need to rebuild the slider that I built several years ago and your plan looks great!!


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## todd628 (Sep 4, 2013)

todd628 said:


> *Building a sliding table for my Grizzly tablesaw*
> 
> I have been wanting a sliding table for my tablesaw for quite some time. The thing that has kept me from starting this project has been the bearing system. I also have been researching a shop built CNC, and that is
> where I got the Idea for my linear bearings.
> ...


Hi Denny, Those rails are 3/16 steel bed rails. however I want to replace them with a solid piece of steel plate attached to the top of the main frame work.
Sorry it took me a while to respond but I'm crazy busy. I can't believe how much I use the sliding table, and how I managed before I had it.
Todd


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## todd628 (Sep 4, 2013)

*Building a sliding table for my Grizzly tablesaw*

This viewis from the back of the saw.










Top of BT










The next step was drilling the vertical holes in the BT. I new I did not want the bearing out side the BT on the back side. so I made the center of the hole in from the front 5/16". The first step was to drill for the 5/16" tap, in aluminum I go to sizes down or 1/32" smaller than the tap size. After setting up the fence and stop block I began to drill the holes, drilling all the way threw the 2" of BT height. I then flipped the piece end for end keeping the face of the BT against the fence. I then repeated this process for the remaining 9
BT.
Next was drilling the 5/16" hole from the top to the cutout at the half way point. At this point I removed the stop block and drilled the first hole, slid the block over and drilled the second hole. And again continued and did the same for 9 more BT's. The last step for these hole was to now drill a 1/2" hole to recess the head of the bolt, continuing for all of them.

Next step was drilling for the 4 face bearing holes.










For drilling the next holes I used a piece of the steel angle that was to be the guide rail. With a bearing on both sides of the angle I measured with my calipers from outside of center hole to the inside of the center hole opposite it. That measurement was the center to center measurement I needed. I set up the drill press again with the fence and a stop block. First the fence to set me at proper distance from edge to center of the hole, and then from the stop block set back far enough to not interfere with the edge guide bearings.
Next I started drilling hole for a 5/16" tapped hole (1/32" undersize for the threads) first hole against fence and stop block, flip hole end for end and drill again. Then roll the BT and drill 1st hole on the other side, flip BT end for end and drill the last hole.

By the way I was using aluminum stock from the scrap yard that explanes the extra holes in some of the trucks.
Next was threading all 6 holes in BT. I used a 5/16" spiral hand tap set up in my cordless impact driver.
That with a little oil on tap in between holes and it cut great.

Next step was to bolt on all the bearings:










I'll add more as soon as I have a chance

Thanks , Todd


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## vikingcape (Jan 3, 2013)

todd628 said:


> *Building a sliding table for my Grizzly tablesaw*
> 
> This viewis from the back of the saw.
> 
> ...


This is really cool. I would love a sliding table myself


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## todd628 (Sep 4, 2013)

todd628 said:


> *Building a sliding table for my Grizzly tablesaw*
> 
> This viewis from the back of the saw.
> 
> ...


Thanks Kaleb,
I am sure glad I decided to move ahead on this project. The first cuts I have made with it have been great.
I will admit that because of the whole system there is a learning curve. Getting used to where to stand is all new
but I believe it will be fun learning.

Thanks again, and have a blessed day, Todd


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## Bushwood (Oct 27, 2015)

todd628 said:


> *Building a sliding table for my Grizzly tablesaw*
> 
> This viewis from the back of the saw.
> 
> ...


Todd, this is awesome. I am just starting, hope you are still answering questions.
You mention 10 BT's but I only see four in the pictures (two each side). Where are the other 6?
Thanks, 
Mark


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## todd628 (Sep 4, 2013)

todd628 said:


> *Building a sliding table for my Grizzly tablesaw*
> 
> This viewis from the back of the saw.
> 
> ...


Mark,
You are quite right, their are for BT's not ten I must have been sleeping as I was writing.
I will of course do my best to answer any questions you may have.

Have a blessed day and make sure to make some sawdust, Todd


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## todd628 (Sep 4, 2013)

*Finishing the Bearing Truck*

The next step was to drill the mounting holes in the top edge of the BT. I decided to use the holes already tapped for the vertical bearing, and and 2 more on each BT besides. So I just evenly spaced 2 more holes,
marked, drilled and tapped all 10 trucks. I can't believe I did not take any pictures of the top of the truck.
But here is the picture of the bottom edge to refresh your memory.










Next I cut a piece of 1/2" aluminum 6" X 12" and layed out and drilled the mounting holes.










The next part was building a short 2×8 x 11' wall, making sure it is as close to perfectly inline as is possible with the table saw using wood. when complete it ended up within .002" in eleven feet, I believe that will be close enough.










The next step was adding the Table to the BT's.









Thanks for your support, Todd

I will explain that process the next time I get a chance.


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## todd628 (Sep 4, 2013)

*Sliding table almost finished*

I made quite a bit of progress yesterday, thought I would show some of those pictures and than go back to the build process.























































After getting to this point I had to make a test cut, I was not disappointed. I used a 4 X 4 sheet of 1/4" mdf
the cut was so perfect no adjustment is necessary. I will get back to the build a little latter today. I must say I am like a guy in a tool store with excitement. 
All I have left to build is the outrigger, and will work on that today.
Please take the time to comment, if you find this at all interesting.

Have a blessed day, Todd


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## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

todd628 said:


> *Sliding table almost finished*
> 
> I made quite a bit of progress yesterday, thought I would show some of those pictures and than go back to the build process.
> 
> ...


Wow Todd. You're really going to town on this one. Good progress.


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## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

todd628 said:


> *Sliding table almost finished*
> 
> I made quite a bit of progress yesterday, thought I would show some of those pictures and than go back to the build process.
> 
> ...


Wow. That table is huge. 
Being able to handle large sheet stock is really cool. Good job.

Steve


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## todd628 (Sep 4, 2013)

todd628 said:


> *Sliding table almost finished*
> 
> I made quite a bit of progress yesterday, thought I would show some of those pictures and than go back to the build process.
> 
> ...


Thanks Joe,
However it seems as if it is taking forever.

Thanks Steve,
Without the outrigger I did not want to apply much weight but cutting that 4 X 4 piece of MDF was amazing.
No struggle, no worry of kickback, I love it.

The extension table remove very easily, just remove the 3 ratchet knobs and loosen 3 nuts and it slides right off.
Have you figured out I love it???

Thanks for your encouragement, Todd


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## kaerlighedsbamsen (Sep 16, 2013)

todd628 said:


> *Sliding table almost finished*
> 
> I made quite a bit of progress yesterday, thought I would show some of those pictures and than go back to the build process.
> 
> ...


Wow thats a serious project! Favorited.
Now all you need to do is mount a large router in the outfeed table for perfect tennons etc and you got a Felder/Martin/SMC/Robland combination saw..
Enjoyed reading through the blog. Lotsa idears to bring to the shop.

Thanks for sharing!


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## vikingcape (Jan 3, 2013)

todd628 said:


> *Sliding table almost finished*
> 
> I made quite a bit of progress yesterday, thought I would show some of those pictures and than go back to the build process.
> 
> ...


Wow! I am super jealous. I would love to have a slider


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## todd628 (Sep 4, 2013)

todd628 said:


> *Sliding table almost finished*
> 
> I made quite a bit of progress yesterday, thought I would show some of those pictures and than go back to the build process.
> 
> ...


I actually have a router that angles mounted in the right wing of the saw. I also have a multi-router that I use for my mortise and tenons, as well as other joints as well.

Thanks Kaleb, I have really been enjoying this build. I think I like to build things to work with more than building other projects anymore.

Thanks again and have a blessed day, Todd


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## todd628 (Sep 4, 2013)

*Adding the table to the BT's*

The next step was the Oak table it is 2" thick X 13" wide and around 80" long. I started by selecting some oak that would easily rip into 2 3/8" strips. I think I had about 15 strips. I laminated the strips together and let it set overnight.
I then planned the Piece down to 2" thick, jointed 1 edge and ripped the piece down to 13" and cleaned that edge up on the jointer.
I then attached the table to the bridge on the BT with 8 1 1/2" screws from under the aluminum bridge.










I then added the 40×80mm fence with 2 bolts, the one on the right is the pivot bolt and the other allows for changing 
the angle.
By loosening those 2 bolts the fence will slide off and you can slide a different extrusion on, if you want a wide fence
maybe to use flip up stops with.
I did have to adjust the linear rail furthest away from the blade, to line it up better with the table.










The next thing to do was build the extension table.










I started with cutting 2 pieces of 1 1/2" X 1 1/2" 8020 extrusion to 60" mitered on both ends, and 2 pieces 24" mitered on bot ends to make a rectangular frame. I then added 2 more cross pieces 21" long, all inside corners were put together with 1 1/2" aluminum angle 1/4" thick.
So I laid out 12 pieces of angle 1 1/4" wide, I made small notches in the angle at 1 1/4" between each notch. When I had 12 of them laid out I marked center hole on both sides of each of the 12 pieces. I then drilled 5/16" holes at all
of those marks. After the 5/16 holes were drilled I went ahead and cut all of the pieces on the miter saw. Next I needed to make about 30- 5/16" T nuts. I used a piece of 1/8×1 1/4" steel bar stock, again I notched them on the miter saw to lay them out leaving 1/2" wide pieces. I just used up the piece of stock I had making about 50 T nuts. Next I laid out the centers on all the little pieces and drilled them at the drill press for a 5/16 tap. So I drilled all the holes 1/32 undersize. After they were all drilled and before I cut them apart I tapped all of them. I used a 5/16 spiral tap chucked up in my impact cordless driver and tapped all the holes. Then I cut the pieces apart and cleaned them up on the disc sander.
Now I was able to bolt it all together with the angle pieces a 5/16 X 3/4"machine screw and a T nut.










I then attached a 3'piece of 1 1/2" X 1/4" thick to the bottom of my fence. I then clamped the frame in place and drilled for bolts to the angle I had already put in place. I also drilled through the 1 1/2 X 1 1/2 extrusion and into the Oak table. I then screwed in 5/16 X 3" hanger bolts and the applied a washer on each and a ratchet type tool-less knob.
I finished this part by drilling through the aluminum angle and bolting to the extrusion with the use of some more of the 5/16" T nuts I had made.



















Thank you for looking and commenting, and have a great night, Todd


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## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

todd628 said:


> *Adding the table to the BT's*
> 
> The next step was the Oak table it is 2" thick X 13" wide and around 80" long. I started by selecting some oak that would easily rip into 2 3/8" strips. I think I had about 15 strips. I laminated the strips together and let it set overnight.
> I then planned the Piece down to 2" thick, jointed 1 edge and ripped the piece down to 13" and cleaned that edge up on the jointer.
> ...


That's one heck of an extension table. Will that SUPPORT the weight of an 8' sheet of 3/4" ply?


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## todd628 (Sep 4, 2013)

todd628 said:


> *Adding the table to the BT's*
> 
> The next step was the Oak table it is 2" thick X 13" wide and around 80" long. I started by selecting some oak that would easily rip into 2 3/8" strips. I think I had about 15 strips. I laminated the strips together and let it set overnight.
> I then planned the Piece down to 2" thick, jointed 1 edge and ripped the piece down to 13" and cleaned that edge up on the jointer.
> ...


When I am finished with the outrigger it will handle the weight with no problem.
I have the outrigger built, It is on the saw now but I placed it wrong and will have to move it a little bit.
The 4' X 4' piece I made the test cut on was amazing.

Have a great evening Joe, Todd


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## cathode (May 18, 2014)

todd628 said:


> *Adding the table to the BT's*
> 
> The next step was the Oak table it is 2" thick X 13" wide and around 80" long. I started by selecting some oak that would easily rip into 2 3/8" strips. I think I had about 15 strips. I laminated the strips together and let it set overnight.
> I then planned the Piece down to 2" thick, jointed 1 edge and ripped the piece down to 13" and cleaned that edge up on the jointer.
> ...


Just curious, but why are the corners of the extension table cut with miters? 80/20 is designed so that you can tap threads into the center hole of the extrusion and fasten two pieces at 90 degrees with one 5/16 bolt. You have to drill a through-hole through the middle of the other piece to fit the allen key through to tighten the bolt.


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## todd628 (Sep 4, 2013)

todd628 said:


> *Adding the table to the BT's*
> 
> The next step was the Oak table it is 2" thick X 13" wide and around 80" long. I started by selecting some oak that would easily rip into 2 3/8" strips. I think I had about 15 strips. I laminated the strips together and let it set overnight.
> I then planned the Piece down to 2" thick, jointed 1 edge and ripped the piece down to 13" and cleaned that edge up on the jointer.
> ...


You are right about that, but I did not want an exposed end. 8020 is designed to be used in many configurations,
making it very easy to work with. With one entry hole for T bolts I can slide them all the way around this rectangle frame. And if that were not enough of a reason I like the look better.
Thanks for your input, and Happy Thanksgiving, Todd


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## todd628 (Sep 4, 2013)

*Building the Outrigger*

I started with a scrap of 1/2 MDF big enough to get both sides of the outrigger. I believe the measurements were 48" long, 16" high at the end next to the saw, and 12" high at the outer end.

This picture shows how I laid it out:




































I began by ripping down a Douglas fir 2×12 into strips about 2 3/8" wide. I used this for my framing around the edges.
I left the small end open and laid the 40 X 80 mm extrusion in the center parallel to the side that was cut square. I then laid out 6 sets of bearings, 3 for each side of the extrusion. I laid the bearing out so there was one set at the top and bottom of the extrusion near the narrow end of the outrigger. I laid another set top and bottom top and bottom at the other end of the extrusion in the furthest open position. I then laid out one more set In between the other 2 sets.
I marked all of the bearing positions with a 5/16" transfer punch. I then laid front and back on top of each other so I could drill both at the same time. I then put a bolt with washer under heads for all 6 locations. I then added 2 washers 
to each bolt on the inside to space the first bearings off the MDF. Then added the bearing and another washer on top of the washers. Then I cut 3/8" tubing for spacers for all 6 locations, put those in place with another washer on top the spacer. Last I added the second bearing to each location along with 2 more washers to keep the bearing from binding on the MDF. I then laid a 1" rod to the end next to the saw for the unit to swing on. I then glued and screwed the framing around the edges. I also ripped some 1" oak to 2 3/8" to frame around the rod, again gluing and screwing in place. I then had to make 2 spacers to hold the 1" rod centered. I was then able to lay the other side on top of the outrigger. I used a washer and nut at each bearing location, and screwed the MDF in place with no glue. This was done for access for maintenance. 
Next I needed to make a clamp for the support end of the outrigger.










As you can see in the last picture the clamp at outer end was 2 pieces of 1/2" ply bolted with 5/16 carriage bolts slid into the T slot. I then cut a piece of 8/4 hard maple and planed to same thickness as the 40 mm thickness of the extrusion. I then drilled a hole down through the maple to hold the outrigger rod. After drilling the hole I split the piece at center line of the hole on the bandsaw. I did not cut all the way through yet leaving enough wood to act as a hinge. I slid the rod through the hole and then bolted the entire piece between the plywood supports. I the drilled 4 hole 2 in front and 2 behind the rod. I then put bolts washers and nuts in each hole and snugged them up.
I then cut off the last inch or so to cut away the wood making up the hinge. The end piece then worked like a clamp to hold the rod at the desired height.

These pictures are of it all done except for paint:
































































As you can see I can almost rip a sheet of plywood on the slider:



















I may do one more of this series finishing it up and painting it thanks for your interest and comments.

Todd


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## Gassit (Apr 10, 2012)

todd628 said:


> *Building the Outrigger*
> 
> I started with a scrap of 1/2 MDF big enough to get both sides of the outrigger. I believe the measurements were 48" long, 16" high at the end next to the saw, and 12" high at the outer end.
> 
> ...


How accurate is it doing a 3-foot cut?
Thanks.


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## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

todd628 said:


> *Building the Outrigger*
> 
> I started with a scrap of 1/2 MDF big enough to get both sides of the outrigger. I believe the measurements were 48" long, 16" high at the end next to the saw, and 12" high at the outer end.
> 
> ...


Pretty cool Todd. 
I like it and it sure would come in handy cutting up large panels. 
I didn't realize just how much real estate it was going to take up. That would be way too much floor-space to give up in my shop.


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## rodk1 (Oct 2, 2009)

todd628 said:


> *Building the Outrigger*
> 
> I started with a scrap of 1/2 MDF big enough to get both sides of the outrigger. I believe the measurements were 48" long, 16" high at the end next to the saw, and 12" high at the outer end.
> 
> ...


This is a very, very impressive project. Thank You so much for posting.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

todd628 said:


> *Building the Outrigger*
> 
> I started with a scrap of 1/2 MDF big enough to get both sides of the outrigger. I believe the measurements were 48" long, 16" high at the end next to the saw, and 12" high at the outer end.
> 
> ...


Send it to woodgears.ca if you fell up to it. A lot of homemade tool builders would appreciate it.


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## todd628 (Sep 4, 2013)

todd628 said:


> *Building the Outrigger*
> 
> I started with a scrap of 1/2 MDF big enough to get both sides of the outrigger. I believe the measurements were 48" long, 16" high at the end next to the saw, and 12" high at the outer end.
> 
> ...


Gassit, 
My first test cut was a 49" cut and it was not off 1/64", I sure was smile-in.

Joe,
the neat thing is the out rigger come off in less than a minute.

rodk1,
I am like a proud daddy of a new baby, I am very happy to let anyone that wants to see it.

TheFridge,
I don't think Matthias Wandel cares much for me.


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## Gassit (Apr 10, 2012)

todd628 said:


> *Building the Outrigger*
> 
> I started with a scrap of 1/2 MDF big enough to get both sides of the outrigger. I believe the measurements were 48" long, 16" high at the end next to the saw, and 12" high at the outer end.
> 
> ...


That's the sort of accuracy I was looking for- well done!

When I sell our house next week, I'll make your sliding saw and build our next house with it. Thanks!


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