# Black Stain Recommendation, Please



## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

I was asked for a quote to build a bench with storage cubbies. We haven't discussed the type of wood construction but she did mention a black finish. UGH!

Here is a link to a similar item that depics what she is asking for.

Note: I am thinking either using white pine or oak plywood with edge banding for the project. Depends on what she wants to pay…maybe two of them; one for home, one for her classroom.

So what would you recommend for a black stain?

Thanks in advance. Your thoughts appreciated.
Mike


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## LeeBarker (Aug 6, 2010)

If she likes that picture, you're looking at dye or paint.

Of your two wood suggestions, pine blotches (especially noticeable the darker the color) and oak is two toned (the hard stuff doesn't like to darken much).

For an even look, with dye, there are better wood choices. Buy some dye, make some samples, show 'em to her. It's worth the time.

Kindly,

Lee


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## rance (Sep 30, 2009)

I've seen Oak dyed pitch black. It was gorgeous. I'm not sure how the Pine would look. You should do some samples for BOTH of you to look at before deciding. I'd be interested to know how much you quote, given the price in the link above. I don't think I could build that in Pine for that price.

As for coloring, I'd start with General's Java Gel Stain. Only because I successfully used it once.


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

Make it out of maple plywood and paint it black.


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## Deycart (Mar 21, 2012)

You could try to ebonizing the wood. Its an old school technique that works well. 
try this link
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/ebonizing_wood


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## usnret (Jul 14, 2011)

Use India ink to dye the wood black. It works great.


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## tenontim (Feb 24, 2008)

I mix water based black aniline dye and India ink, then I add some black tint to my oil based top coat, to even out the color.


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

@ Lee - that is not the picture of what she wants, but overall, that is what she wants…36W inches x 14D x 16H with three cubbies. Her picture shows a padded cushion which she would have to make.

@Others - I would rather use plywood so I don't have to glue up the white pine to get a finished depth of 14 inches. The project can be built out of a 1/2 sheet of plywood. Just so happens I have a half sheet of Red Oak but I could get some Maple if need be.

Dye, tint…UGH! although we are talking black color, I am partially color blind. Gray is one of my favorite colors!  And believe me when I say it is really tough on my photography.

I guess I should take a ride to Woodcraft and see what those guys have to say. They carry the General Finishes stuff.

Note: I got the request via my wife's text with a picture. So I need to talk to her in person. She is a good friend of my daughter and a first year teacher also. I really don't mind helping her out if we can figure out what the final product should look like.

Thanks for your advice.
Mike


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## Tennessee (Jul 8, 2011)

Minwax's Ebony is fairly black, and it will allow a little of the grain to show through, and is easy to apply.
Other than that, Behlen Solar Lux Stain Dye would be the product I would choose.


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## OggieOglethorpe (Aug 15, 2012)

I really like genuine India Ink on open grained woods. I've used it on ash and oak, for things like statue altars, with beautiful results. It's got to end up blaaaaaaaaaaaaack to look best, not almost black with tints of other colors.

To me, lots of the made for woodworking products fade a bit to a purple tint. Some even start that color.

Here's an example from Dick Blick.

I normally apply it with a foam brush. Pre-raise the grain with water, sand to 220, apply the ink, spray with your favorite clear coat.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Doesn't Transtint make a black? I'm honestly not sure.


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## horsch (Feb 7, 2011)

I haven't tried it, but hope to some day. This review of black shellac looks really cool, although it is not always available from the website that supplies it.


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## Bensincali (Jan 19, 2011)

I used minwax polyshades black to do a dresser and it worked out great. It was oak. I know its in bad form to use poly and stain in one, but for this project it worked out well. I used one coat on the drawers as we wanted the grain and some of the brown wood to show. But two coats on the top blackened it well. I finished with watco wipe on poly and my wife loves it.


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

My preferred method is to mix some of the Mixwax Ebony with some poly and spray it on. It's certainly black, and with it you can control the amount of transparency with the number of coats. I did an aquarium stand using this method…among other things.


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## ClintSearl (Dec 8, 2011)

The blackest black I've ever used is Ronan Black Japan Color. It's a paste that can be thinned to get any density desired. It dries pretty fast and can be topped with any clear coat.
http://www.ronanpaints.com/japan.htm


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Use aniline black dye. One you realize how easy it is (mix, spray on) you'll be thanking yourself.


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## nwbusa (Feb 21, 2012)

Whatever you do, stay away from the Minwax Polyshades, especially in black: http://lumberjocks.com/topics/37162


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## Bensincali (Jan 19, 2011)

Hmmm. I stand corrected on the polyshades. I don't know why it worked so well for me. Maybe because I applied real thin coats and wiped all excess well. But I certainly defer to those with more experience.


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## whitebeast88 (May 27, 2012)

i've used polyshades on 4 projects and they turned out fine.the 5th was as good.haven't used since.i've tried the ebony stain from minwax and wasn't impressed.


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Thanks for all the replies. Please feel free to link to your projects if you feel like a show-n-tell. Right now, the easiest thing for me to do, is buy a small can of the Minwax Ebony and make a few samples. I have some oak hardwood and plywood, maple plywood, poplar and white pine boards.

A question for you guys that mix…What kind of "Poly" would you mix with to spray. I have only used the Deft Clear Wood Finish to spray a clear finish over my staining work so that would be a new venture for me.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/56271

For this project I mixed the dye in a hand sprayer and just spritzed it on until I was satisfied. The black would have been much richer if he would have allowed me to put on a clear finish. By hand sprayer I mean this kind:


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

@wormil - thank you sir.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

I think Wormil's onto something. Transtint does make a black aniline.
http://www.veneersupplies.com/products/TransTint---Black-2-oz.html


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## TerryFerguson (Feb 5, 2011)

Every comment has good suggestions and great information.
Here's what have used: Cabot Wood Stain "Ebony" Solvent Based, very black, penetrates well. Rustoleum Ultimate Wood Stain "Kona" Solvent Based, very dark brown expresso color, penetrates well. Both from Lowes, both hide grain evenly, no blotching. Any polyurethane waterborne or solvent based will work as top coats. Another option: homemade stain: one quart wine vinegar, one cup balsamic vinegar, one pad 0000 steel wool. Combine ingredients in a plastic container with large opening and plastic lid. Punch a few holes in lid to let fumes escape. Opinions say: remove steel wool after 24 hrs or leave mixture for three weeks. I left the mixture for six days - the steel wool was completely dissolved. I decantered the mixture into another plastic bottle. The experiments I've done so far: red and white oak turn black, really black with two or more applications, poplar, maple, alder all turn from driftwood gray to dark brown with repeated coats. Experiments and samples on various woods recommended as it appears that a wide variety of colors (gray to brown and black can be produced depending on applications.


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## bfd (Dec 23, 2007)

If it were me I would use Transtint brand black dye and Woodcraft sells it. It comes in a 2 oz concentrated bottle. Mix it with either distilled water or Denatured alcohol or a 50/50 mix of both. If you use water pre-raise the grain first and sand back using the final grit.(220). The advantage of using a dye like transtint is that you can build up the color vs. using a pigment based stain. If I have to stain wood I only use Transtint dyes. Also, regarding the wood I would use Ash Plywood. Ash takes stain probably better and more evenly than any other wood out there. Pine is too soft and doesn't stain evenly. Ash will have a more uniform look than staining Oak and Maple is too hard to take stain uniformly.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Bertha, TransTint is exactly what I used and in fact, still have some. I used it about a week ago to create a sunburst effect around the edges of a cajon.


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## Wdwerker (Apr 14, 2012)

Black dye or lacquer on oak looks wicked. You see all the grain of the oak and the black gets kind of 2 toned,a satin on the open grain and more shine on the solid areas. A clear topcoat is a good idea.


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

I think y'all have talked me into trying the dye.


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Update - I made the 75 mile round trip to Woodcraft today and brought home a 2 oz bottle of the Transtint Black dye. I will update this thread when I get a chance to make up a sample or two.


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## Hoosierdaddy (Mar 3, 2011)

I should have come here weeks ago and saved myself $30 in various ebonies and other big box store stains i've bought with less than satisfactory results.

The project is a modified version of one of those typical low slung big screen TV entertainment centers, lots of cubbies for stereo/x-box/speakers, drawers for storing movies and doors. All built from solid birch or birch plywood I've stained the carcass with two coats of a dark walnut, Minwax I think. I have struggled and struggled trying to get the face frame, doors, drawer fronts, pedestal base and top birch to be strikingly darker than the two coats of dark walnut stain.

I can say unequivocally that the big box store stains fall very very short of what they advertise, at least insofar as working with birch. I've tried two and three coats of ebony, two coats of ebony and one coat of dark walnut. IMHO I just don't get that striking look I was wanting to achieve. The customers only request? Make it dark.

I did try the Minwax Polyshades black too, seemed to go on so that I couldn't discern any grain.

I initially was coming here to find a way to get the wood to be more receptive of the stain, absorb it deeper and achieve the look I was trying to get.

So here I am learning about various aniline dyes and ebonizing. @Deycart's link to popular woodworkings way to ebonize wood smacks a little bit of a meth lab with all the crazy steps you have to go thru to get the desired effect. Me thinks I'll try the aniline black dye for starts and report back later. I'm afraid I'll be back though, cooking 0000 steel wool in vinegar before it's all over though ;-)

Thanks to all for your sage advice


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