# Problem with finish on Cocobolo wood



## BobD (Jan 20, 2009)

I made a band saw box out of Cocobolo, a hardwood from Mexico, and applied 3 coats of Minwax spray Urethane. After 6 days, the finish is still tacky to the touch. I have moved the box inside where it is warmer, had heat lamps on it to help it dry and even moved it outside to get some fresh air. The finish will not dry. Is this due to the Cocobolo wood or what? I have made pens out of Cocobolo and the finish is dry and beautiful. How can I make the finish dry or what are my alternatives. Suggestions welcome.


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## racerglen (Oct 15, 2010)

I made one of my boys a Cocoblo box by request some time back..same story..
stripped the finish off, dried it, wiped with minieral spirits then when that was dry recoated..worked fine.
Cocobolo has a lot of natural oils in it so a wipe first is a good idea..


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## Seer (Jun 5, 2008)

Agreed wipe it down with mineral spirits or DNA om pens I make if I don't wipe it down the finish is very cloudy.


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## benjammin2001 (Jun 25, 2010)

I have seen a few posts about issues with Cocobolo and poly finish. I think some people were saying that the wood has natural oils in it that make for tough finishing. I have made a few wine bottle balancers from it and I have not been able to achieve a very good finish. My last attempt I just wiped on a thin coat of Arm-R-Seal and then wiped it off after a few minutes. It wasn't terrible, but it still was slightly tacky after a few days. Are you finishing your pens on the lathe? Maybe that has something to due with why they are turning out different.


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## richgreer (Dec 25, 2009)

When I make an item out of cocobolo, I don't put any real finish on them. I just take them directly to my buffer and buff a great looking finish. My only "finish" is the wax from the buffer.


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## bobdurnell (Sep 24, 2007)

BobD-My experience with cocobolo since it is one of the rosewoods is that 34 years ago I made some little boxes and used an oil based finish and it would not dry so I asked one of the professors at Cal State Long Beach Ca. (used to be a great woodworking institution) and was told that a lacquer based product would work and it did. Since you are from San Diego I woud go out and buy some Deft Clear Wood Finish and lacquer thinner before the CAQC curtails the sale of all lacquer products like in my county of Orange, or Riverside, Los Angeles, San Bernardino, just to name a few. I drive to Solana Beach to by mine I think the place is called Dixeline? About 80 miles from my house! I hope this info helps. My name is the same Good luck Bob D


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## childress (Sep 14, 2008)

I would first clean the wood and then wipe down with denatured alcohol (not mineral spirits), then put on two coats of dewaxed shellac. From that point on, you can put whatever top coat you want.

Rich also has a good idea of just polishing the wood as does bob. There are several ways to approach this, now you know not to start with the oil base on top of an oily wood. I've been there and done it and never did fix it thinking it would dry eventually. Still looks bad!


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## childress (Sep 14, 2008)

Bobdurnell, going down to Solana Beach, you ever stop by David Allen (used to be where cut & dried hardwoods was)? They have incredible slabs there. a must see for any woodworker…


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## OldWrangler (Jan 13, 2014)

I sand down with 1000 grit and then wax with 3-4 coats of neutral shoe polish. Makes a good shine and durable finish


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