# Sharpening Cheap Chisels, Is It Really Worth It?



## 18wheelznwood (Jan 21, 2021)

A dear friend of mine bought me a set of "budget" chisels for Christmas. So far I believe I've spent around 4 times the value of the set in sharpening supplies trying to get them in decent shape. Being new to the finer points of woodworking, ie sharpening, I think I'm learning an expensive lesson here. I initially started out buying several grits of water stones and some stropping supplies. After 3 hours on one 1" chisel with the 600 grit stone I was making little progress just flattening the back. I'm not dumb and realized that this was going nowhere fast and wearing out a perfectly good waterstone. So I bought a "Scary Sharp" float glass and sheet abrasive sharpening system.


























The top chisel is one of the untouched ones and the bottom is the result of about 3 hours of work today. It is now razor sharp and easily sliced paper. Another of life's little lessons I guess.


----------



## Loren (May 30, 2008)

Well, in my experience only relatively expensive chisels retain the edges longer than cheap ones. Of course you can get a lemon that isn't properly hardened but most cheap chisels are probably adequately heat treated. I haven't tried Narex or brands in that price range, only cheaper chisels and ones in the $50 per chisel and up range. I have a set of Marples butyrate chisels that weren't that hard to bring to working condition with a Makita wet grinder but also a cheap set of Amazon chisels I was sent to review which I sharpened on diamond plates and honestly the Amazon chisels aren't worth the work to me. You can prepare chisels on a $10 oil stone though, maybe not well enough for fine woodworking but well enough for carpentry.


----------



## bobnann (Apr 19, 2019)

Budget chisels are made with budget steel. Sorry to say that but yes one of life's lessons. I bought a of mid priced Craftsman chisels 20 years ago and they sharpened up well, so I thought. About 5 years ago I found a set of Stanley chisels made in USA still sealed in their hanger cards at a yard sale. These chisels sharpened up razor sharp in about an hour for the set of six. At least you got a tool box set for rough work out of it. And when you get that good set you're all practicesed up on sharpening!


----------



## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

Even if they are cheap (and you can spare the time to tune them up), as Bob says it is nice to have a set of chisels for carpentry around the house.

They are also nice to leave in a visible location for when the wife goes looking for something to pry open a can of old paint 8^)


----------



## 18wheelznwood (Jan 21, 2021)

These chisels are definitely going to be my beater chisels! Had my eye on a nice 4 pc Narex starter set before I was given this set. I'll get them eventually.


----------



## Sycamoray (Jun 24, 2020)

I can't agree with the assertion that budget chisels are made from budget steel. In fact, lots of "high end" steel is budget steel which has been held to exacting spec during manufacture. The problem is that budget chisels may have been hardened and tempered unevenly, and/or may be shaped like a banana. Plus, the maker hasn't ground them with any care. The low budget price is a result of inadequate QC; with the exception of the latest powdered metals, the costly chisels aren't made from expensive steel.

I bought a set just like yours 15 years ago. I still use them. Like you, I spent a stupid long amount of time sharpening them the first time. I also ground the sides to match my most common dovetail angle, cut off the plastic handles and slapped on some dogwood because that's what I had on hand. For me, it was worth the effort because every subsequent sharpening has been easy and they work perfectly fine.


----------



## SMP (Aug 29, 2018)

Cheap chisels are a great place to learn to sharpen and hone and change angles etc for different tasks. And to build skill. Paul Sellers uses a set of cheap chisels from Aldi and they work for him.


----------



## RClark (Jun 1, 2012)

Here's a pic of the difference between cheap chisels and better chisels.

On the left is a Stanley "Fat Max" chisel and on the right is a Narex chisel. Both see relatively same usage, both are ground to same bevel angle. The Stanley starts out just as sharp, but quickly loses its edge, and quickly gets messed up in the process.










When I'm woodworking, the Narex is the go-to. Rough carpentry and repair tasks around the house? Stanley and the Craftsman.


----------



## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Sometimes…the ONLY thing that feels "Quality" is one's wallet….bought 2 sets of Aldi's chisels…first set was right when they came out….$7 for 4. still in hard use…..used one yesterday…the other set is 2 yrs newer, still going strong….I also have a bunch of vintage chisels….Witherby, Butcher, Buck Brothers ( BEFORE there was a Home Depot) have found no difference between the vintage and the Aldi's…..My Mortise chisels are narex, and the vintage ones….and a 12mm from Japan.

"Rough Carpentry"? That used to be, for me…Stanleys, the No. 60s, with the yellow plastic handles….

Some that complain of the "hours, and hours spent".......makes me wonder just what ARE they doing…as that job should only take LESS than 1/2 an hour for the really bad ones…...must be taking coffee breaks while changing out stones….?


----------



## tvrgeek (Nov 19, 2013)

By the time you get them all tuned up, you will know what grits to use. Even very good tools don't come ready to use. better, but not ready. The back is always the longest part, but you should only need to do it once. Quality of the paper matters a lot. Cheap paper gets dull and quits cutting fast.

From my preferences: 
You are not there yet. The back ( only the last inch) should be a mirror. Not shiny scratches, mirror like a glass mirror.
It looks like the edges right at the tip are a little rounded. Maybe just the picture. I start on the backs with 420 paper, then 600, 1200, diamond plate, 2000, 3000 paper on glass.

Your primary bevel is too shiny, but has deep scratches. The primary does not need to be polished, but no scratches. So that means your micro-bevel would need to be a milli-bevel. My micro bevel is just 3 or 4 strokes by hand on 3000 and then strop. Strop is critical. Some use leather, some use a bit of MDF, loaded with green stropping compound. I did not realize how critical it was until recently.

There are cheap chisels. Handy for ugly jobs. Good inexpensive chisels. (I have a set of Marples) And then really good chisels. I have one new Narex 1/2 inch as that is the size I grab most often, and several older ones I inherited from my grandfather. I did not quite get the difference between good and great, but there is one and it is worth it. But, if you need to trim a bit of oak flooring or shoe mold on a repair job, you really want that cheap chisel and you want it sharp.


----------



## PBWilson1970 (Jan 23, 2020)

My take on affordable chisels is that the steel is pretty good, but the fit and finish may be not so hot.

There are a few companies using higher quality (and performing) steel but the chisel and plane blade community has a ways to go until they get into some of the super steels found in higher end knives these days. There's usually a trade-off when you're using some higher end steel, which is that some may be a bear to sharpen and some may chip rather than roll if you hit something hard and you'll be spending a bit of time repairing to get them back to tip-top shape.

I kinda wonder if a reliable and quick sharpening system is the way to go. If you can go from reasonably dull to shaving sharp in under a minute or two, does it really matter what kind of steel you have? I've settled into a setup that works for me: hollow grind on the grinder, go through my four diamond sharpening stones and finish on a strop. Once I have it in my Lee Valley honing guide, the stone and strop work goes super fast. Back to work in no time!


----------



## Axis39 (Jul 3, 2019)

I like what PBWilson1970 says.

I have a pile of chisels. Some inherited from two generations. Some bought new. Some bought used. Some are inexpensive beaters, some are mid-priced and there's a mixed set of Japanese chisels my wife bought me for Christmas last year.

I ma a big fan fo the vintage chisels I own and the Japanese chisels. I use them more than any fo the newer stuff in the shop. Bit, if I am going out on the jobsite to do any kind of rough work, the beaters come out.

I keep my beaters sharpened to 1k on a diamond stone. I picked up a set of Kobalt chisels while in the midst of a move, had stuff packed up and needed to do a repair. I just cleaned them up again the other day.

For years, I used the scary sharp system… on a budget. - piece of granite and a bunch of wet/dry paper. I used that set up for years! So, don't think of it as spending more money than the chisels. Think of it as an investment into sharpening you'll use for years ot come on other tools, too.


----------



## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

I have a huge assortment from some low dollar Stanley yellow plastic handles from back in the 70's that I used to set doors, hinges, and whatnot with as a Carpenter, to a few Japanese high dollar tools. Off the top I'd suggest Lee Valley PM-VII's for mid to high priced, and as a good chisel starting out.

If you buy I never suggest "Kits" where you get many sizes. I say buy different brands, and a size that you need right then. Having an assortment off the start will help you understand faster what you like, because they are all chisels, yet vastly different, even among the same type, say bench chisels. Each brand will have different balance, weight, edge, shoulders, solid tangs, or partials. All will affect the use.

I would suggest trying both Japanese, and Western, both have different qualities. If I had to say I'd think the Japanese, at least what I have last longer between required touch ups. I do have some low dollar Japanese chisels as well as some high dollar, and feel that extends across the board.

I use a Worksharp most of the time, though I have grinders, and water stones, oil stones. I find the WS get's me back to ready a LOT quicker than anything else I have tried, Literally 5 seconds can renew an edge, so I can go another hour or so, and I've never seen anything do a secondary bevel as fast as the WS.


----------



## dschlic1 (Jan 3, 2013)

I would say that you need to use a coarser grit to start with to flatten the backs. If you need to remove a lot of material, start coarse and work your way up. In any case like others said, it only needs to be done once.

I have two sets of chisels: a Harbor Freight set and a Narex set. Both take an excellent edge. With the Narex chisels, I find that they last longer before needing touching up. On that point I have found that frequent honing is all that this needed. I rarely need to re-establish the bevel.


----------



## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

It's all about the steel. Low carbon steels just won't take an edge. It's the same as kitchen knives; no matter how much you try to get a sharp edge on a knife, it just won't get sharp. That doesn't necessarily mean expensive chisels or knives are better. I found cheap kitchen knives in an oriental grocery, around $5.00 that are incredibly sharp and keep their edge. They are easily kept sharp with a few swipes on a diamond stone. You can find the same in chisels, but it takes time to experiment with different brands to find the one with the right steel. Off course the edge angle is different with knives and chisels. Knives have a more acute angle and can get a sharper edge, but the steel has to be able to withstand the thinner edge, so a high carbon steel is needed. Chisels have to withstand more punishment than a knife. I would suspect a HSS would be best. It would be harder to sharpen, but would hold it's edge better than a low carbon steel. I am not an expert on steel, but found by experience which steel works and which doesn't. The steels used in traditional Japanese chisels and knives are about the best there is, but usually very expensive, but fairly inexpensive ones can be found.


----------



## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

It is funny. I bought two 4-piece sets of the yellow handle Harbor Freight $7 chisels a few years go to use a beaters. They actually take and hold an edge better than the Marples set I bought from Garrett Wade 35 years ago so I often reach for those first, even for finer work. Sure, the side bevels are uneven but that has never prevented them from working well.

EDIT: One more thing. If you are just learning to sharpen, better the mess up the edge of a cheap tool than an expensive one and have to remove a bunch of expensive steel to fix it.


----------



## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

Question for anyone who has tried it.
Will a case hardening compound (i.e. Kasenit) help improve cheap chisels with softer tips?
I know that the heat needed may de-temper the metal behind the edge, but I'd be after a very hard tip edge for specialty needs.


----------



## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

Not an expert in metallurgy by any stretch, but on the high dollar chisels they have processes by which they build the edge using time, experience, and methodology. Not so sure a home brew can swap for the correct process.

Soft edges of course dull easily, but just plain hard is usually brittle. Neither is optimal for a good working edge.


----------



## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

I think that I would just try to heat treat and re-temper before I would try something like case hardening. Sometimes, they just didn't take the time to do it right. On the other hand, a cheap chisel is the the perfect tool to experiment on. If you ruin, not much loss.


----------



## Underdog (Oct 29, 2012)

> I would say that you need to use a coarser grit to start with to flatten the backs. If you need to remove a lot of material, start coarse and work your way up. In any case like others said, it only needs to be done once.
> 
> - dschlic1


^^^ THIS!! ^^^
If you START with 600 grit on a rough bit of steel you're going to be at it a looooong time.


----------



## Kirk650 (May 8, 2016)

I suppose there's some inner need for more chisels. I have more than I really need, and I do have one less expensive set for 'rough' work. I can, however, resist the urge to buy cheap chisels, or at least I have so far. I can't see any logic behind buying cheap chisels, unless there's a hope you'll find a jewel among pebbles. What you'll wind up with though, is just more pebbles.

About as cheap as I'd go would be the Marples/Irwin blue handled chisels, but only if they were the ones with Sheffield steel. I used a set of those for a couple years and then gifted them to a newbie woodworker.

I have spent the bucks on good chisels, such as the LN socket handled chisels. Beautifully made. I have a full set, but reach for the Veritas PM-V11 or Pfiel chisels most often, since they hold an edge a bit better.

I will admit to feeling the pull toward buying cheap chisels. I don't understand it, but there it is…


----------



## bobnann (Apr 19, 2019)

I used to work in industrial sales and we were a distributor for a major pipe tool company. The analogy I use is the difference in pipe threading dies. Two levels: carbon steel dies cost less, got the job done, didn't last long. HSS cost more, made more quality cuts over a longer period of time, and required fewer change outs. Almost all mechanical contractors used HSS. Cutting tools come in many quality levels across the pricing spectrum. Usually (not saying always, and I'm talking new here) you get what you pay for.


----------



## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

I remember the "Engineering Economics" classes from school where you consider life cost analysis on various machinery. It seems the favorite for examples was always the stainless steel vs. bronze impeller wars. In almost every example the more up-front expensive option was the wiser financial choice.


----------



## JackDuren (Oct 10, 2015)

I just send mine off. I usd Buck Bros. And Stanely. I just send them off to be sharpened..


----------



## RClark (Jun 1, 2012)

I will make a semantic distinction between "cheap" and "inexpensive."

My Stanley and Craftsman chisels are cheap. They are budget tools and as along as one doesn't expect much fine work out of them, one won't be disappointed.

My Narex chisels were inexpensive when I got them; I paid about $85 for the set of 10 (1/4" to 2") back when Lee Valley first carried them 10 years ago. They perform well beyond the price I paid for them. They're not $85 for a set of 10 anymore.

I have read posts about the "Aldi" chisels on several boards; based on what I've read, they seem to fall into the "inexpensive" category.

"Inexpensive" chisels can also be found in various flea markets, junk stores, and garage sales. Darling wife found an old chisel she thought i might like; paid about $5 for it. I got it, cleaned it up, turned a new handle…turned out to be a Greenlee Reliance paring chisel, circa 1920. Fantastic piece of old steel.


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

You can also spend a lot less on diamond sharpening plates than name brand or certainly waterstones.

Quite usable diamond plates can be ordered from China for about $6 per grit. You might have to wait a few months to receive them in the worst case, or if you are lucky they will come in 2 weeks.

I've been using some the past few days (7.5×17cm) about 3×6.6 inches. They are just as good as or better than the name brand ones I had been using. They are thin, but that is no matter, I just put them on my table saw when I use them.

I was so pleased, I just ordere 2 each of 80 and 150 grit at about $8 each. $28 total with tax and shipping from China. The 240 works so fast, I can't imagine what the 80 grit is like.

-Paul


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

> "Inexpensive" chisels can also be found in various flea markets, junk stores, and garage sales. Darling wife found an old chisel she thought i might like; paid about $5 for it. I got it, cleaned it up, turned a new handle…turned out to be a Greenlee Reliance paring chisel, circa 1920. Fantastic piece of old steel.
> 
> - RClark


I have a 2 inch Reliance socket chisel which was made before Greenlee bought Reliance and moved them from Ohio to Illinoise. It seems to weigh a pound without a handle and is so hard I haven't yet gotten it sharp. As soon as I get my 80 grit diamond plates, I'll have another go at it


----------



## RClark (Jun 1, 2012)

> I have a 2 inch Reliance socket chisel which was made before Greenlee bought Reliance and moved them from Ohio to Illinoise. It seems to weigh a pound without a handle and is so hard I haven t yet gotten it sharp. As soon as I get my 80 grit diamond plates, I ll have another go at it
> 
> - Ocelot


Neat stuff.

I ground the bevel on the wet grinder and then honed the final edge on my Arkansas oil stones. Used it to shave end grain cherry earlier this afternoon.


----------



## WoodenDreams (Aug 23, 2018)

Any new or used chisel you get, you should sharpen to your standards. Once you get them scary sharp or as sharp as you want, it takes less time to sharpen the chisel after each use or at the end of the day. The first time you sharpen new or used chisels will normally take longer, than when you go to resharpen after each use. Consider it good practice. Water or oil stones do need reflatening every so often with a flattening stone. No chisel tip likes nails, screws or being used as a can opener. Not everybody has the budget for the high end brands. Sure the cheap chisels usually need sharpening more often. But after each use, get in the habit of sharpening after use. Will save you time and frustration in the long run. Also makes a difference on how long the chisel tip last with what your using the chisel on (soft or hard wood). It's nice to have extra chisels that you can beat on, and not worry about the tip. Sorry about my rant.


----------



## RClark (Jun 1, 2012)

> Any new or used chisel you get, you should sharpen to your standards. Once you get them scary sharp or as sharp as you want, it takes less time to sharpen the chisel after each use or at the end of the day. The first time you sharpen new or used chisels will normally take longer, than when you go to resharpen after each use. Consider it good practice. Water or oil stones do need reflatening every so often with a flattening stone. No chisel tip likes nails, screws or being used as a can opener. Not everybody has the budget for the high end brands. Sure the cheap chisels usually need sharpening more often. But after each use, get in the habit of sharpening after use. Will save you time and frustration in the long run. Also makes a difference on how long the chisel tip last with what your using the chisel on (soft or hard wood). It s nice to have extra chisels that you can beat on, and not worry about the tip. Sorry about my rant.
> 
> - WoodenDreams


If that was a rant, we got off easy! 

Good advice. I know some folks will choose to wait until "sharpening day" rolls around on the calendar. That's fine for them, and I originally started out that way. But I found that after the first time or two, I typically put it off until it was no longer remembered. I could always find a good reason to not take care of the sharpening business if it meant I had a whole day of it.

The only thing I would add to your post is that keeping a decent strop handy while working will also help lengthen times intervals between honing sessions.

I'll be direct: Sharpening is not my hobby, and I don't like it. I do it because I must, if I want to enjoy the other aspects of woodworking.


----------



## Chrislee (Dec 22, 2020)

What's an affordable option for honing the blade during usage? I don't have a leather strop or anything like a Tormek. I'm picking up Narex Richter chisels I think.


----------



## brtech (May 26, 2010)

> What s an affordable option for honing the blade during usage? I don t have a leather strop or anything like a Tormek. I m picking up Narex Richter chisels I think.
> 
> - Chrislee


Well, a strop is pretty cheap, so if all you need to do is hone it, get a strop.
A Duosharp and a decent clamp type holder is reasonably inexpensive and easy/fast to touch up an edge.

But probably, a piece of float glass, some lapping film, and if you need it, the clamp type holder is what you are asking for


----------



## bobnann (Apr 19, 2019)

I use paint stir sticks, glue an 8" strip of leather to it (fuzzy side up) and load it with abrasive compound. I use a stick type you can find at most hardware stores or industrial supply houses. One with zinc, another with red rouge etc. Drill a hole in the handle end and I hang 'em on the peg board right next to the chisels ready to go.
For leather I try to find old tool belts at a yard sale. The best are the heavy belts with pouches like an iron worker uses.
You can also glue leather to wood dowels and use that for round shapes.


----------



## WoodenDreams (Aug 23, 2018)

One affordable option on the cheap, is using a brown paper bag or card board for stropping, instead of leather. The green wax bar or green chromium oxide, is a good stropping compound. On the cheap, you can even use a tooth paste as a stropping compound.


----------

