# Is bigger necessary?



## SFDCapt (Sep 28, 2013)

I have been spending a lot of time looking at various table saws for a new shop. Mind you I am not going to be purchasing anytime soon but am planning layout. All the saws I have been looking at are 3HP single phase cabinet saws. What I would like to ask the community is why buy 50-52" rails over 30-36" rails? The saw will be used to build furniture and cabinetry. There is plenty of room in the shop for the larger rails and the price difference is generally $100, a small fraction of the cost of these saws. I just can't imagine needing that much space between blade and fence. As I am fairly new to this, surely I am missing something. Thanks in advance for everyone's thoughts on this.

Lee


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## RobWoodCutter (Jul 22, 2009)

I have the PM2000 with 50" rails. The advantage for me is being able to push the fence completely out of the way when using a sled or miter guage as oppose to taking it on/off.

I don't need the actually capacity for ripping down full sheets of plywood because I have other safer methods (panelsaw and tracksaw).

Rob


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

+1 what Rob said. If you get 72" rails you can crosscut pantry
sides using the fence.

Footprint is an issue in some shops. I have a European saw
and I'm temped to cut the fence down from 50" to 32" or
something to have a little more maneuverability in the shop.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

As soon as you need the extra capacity, it'll be too late, go big!


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## agallant (Jul 1, 2010)

+1 on what Rob said. I have had both the 52 and the 32. The extra space is really nice. I mean really nice. If you go 32 you won't know what you are missing so it won't be a big deal but once you go 52 there is no going back.


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## SFDCapt (Sep 28, 2013)

I probably should have put in the new shop is 19×35. I was thinking the 50" rails would be worth the extra $100. If I build an outfeed table it will give me additional assembly space.


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## agallant (Jul 1, 2010)

19X35, then I would 100% go with the larger rails. My shop is 18X16 and I have the larger rails.


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## sixstring (Apr 4, 2012)

Go big and build an extension and outfeed table. Then you can also build in a router table along the side which can also use the saw's fence (double duty means more use so get the best fence you can.) I have a Vega Pro 50 and havent had any problems. Stays true, the micro-adjust is useful but not by any means necessary. And it was super easy to install and true to the blade.

If space isnt an issue… go big and make future projects a breeze to tackle. The extra work/assembly space is very useful and other stations (mitresaw, planer, jointer, routing rigs, can always be built in to the table. I find myself at one end jointing and planing then sliding the material across to be cut on the tablesaw. Then across to the router and back again as necessary. Then I use the table for staining/finishing and assembly.

One useful thing I've done is routing a mitre/t-track slot to extend from the table saw onto the outfeed table so crosscut sleds and other jigs can continue sliding across as necessary… Or, use the same tracks for other jigs on the other side. I've found that my sleds make great 90deg stops/guides for assembling cabinets. The possibilities are endless so again… Go Big!


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## Earlextech (Jan 13, 2011)

Spend the $100 - 
The first time you need to cut a sheet of ply to 46" you will be happy you did.


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## BArnold (May 20, 2013)

^^^^^
What Earlextech said.

My first table saw was a contractor type with 30" rails. When I upgraded a couple of years later, I got the 52" rails and realized what I had been missing. Of course, that upgrade was a 3hp cabinet saw with the power to handle 8/4 and 10/4 rough cut lumber, too!


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

Not necessary, but nice to have. My 3 horse has 52" rails and I am perfectly happy with that. Have been for 30 years.


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## AandCstyle (Mar 21, 2012)

Here is a pic of my TS and outfeed table shortly after I moved into the shop. Subsequently, I covered the plywood with melamine and use it for glue ups and smaller assemblies. I have the 52" rails and I can handle sheets of 3/4" ply with no difficulty or safety concerns.


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## SFDCapt (Sep 28, 2013)

Art, that looks great. Very similar set up to what I was thinking of doing, except my dust control will be below the floor.


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## AandCstyle (Mar 21, 2012)

The sheet of ply on the back is a full 4'x8' and the small piece was sized to make the rectangle. I use the lower shelf to store cut offs, jigs, glue, etc.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Art, That is a great set up!


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## shawnmasterson (Jan 24, 2013)

I can cut 52" to the right of my pm66 and I wouldn't ever dream of going shorter. Imho if you don't have the room then your shop needs more shop.


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## Sailor (Jun 17, 2009)

Definitely go with the bigger rails…..


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## Sawdustmaker115 (Sep 8, 2013)

I own a Sawstop with 36" rails i wish i had 52" rails
There's been a bunch of times iv needed to rip a sheet of ply for a back piece of a cabinet 
So if you have the room definitely go with the larger rail system you won't regret it if you have the space
It's also nice to have the extra table length for doing cross cuts


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## AandCstyle (Mar 21, 2012)

SFDCapt & Andy, thanks for the compliments. I "borrowed" that design from a friend who, no doubt, borrowed it from someone else. Regardless of the source, it has served well. One caveat is that your concrete floor may not be level, so I added adjustable feet so I could true up the auxiliary table to the TS surface.


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## SFDCapt (Sep 28, 2013)

Here's what I came up with for a shop layout using saw dimensions with the larger rails, it still allows over 5 feet on either side of the saw. So I am pretty convinced that for the extra $100 the 50" rails would be worth it.


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## GT350 (Dec 22, 2012)

How big is that shop? I have the 30" fence and I am happy with it but I can see that the larger fence would be nicer. I would be more concerned about not having a large assembly table/work bench. I have a 4×8 work bench and a couple of 2×6 work benches and I use those far more than I would use the larger fence on the table saw. The way I work I wouldn't want to use the outfeed table as an assembly table because as soon as I started assembling something I would need to cut something on the table saw. Also, the planer and jointer look like they are a little close to the end wall, I like to be able to run 8' pieces through mine. Have you found space for a drill press and maybe a lathe? 
Mike


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## moonie (Jun 18, 2010)

52" rail would be sweet Im working with a 30" rail and that sucks when your cutting long peice of 1/4" panles.


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## SFDCapt (Sep 28, 2013)

GT 350 shop is 19'x35'


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## GT350 (Dec 22, 2012)

That's enough room, bigger than it looks on paper, if it were me I would get the larger saw.
Mike


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## kizerpea (Dec 2, 2011)

I agree…bigger is better!


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## jtritz (Dec 15, 2013)

GT350,
Just curious, what program did you use for the sketch up of your shop?

Thanks in Advance


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## jtritz (Dec 15, 2013)

Sorry, meant for that to go to SFDCapt


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## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

If you've got enough room in your shop you'll be glad that you have the extra fence length. You can build a rolling cart or cabinet with drawers that will sit under the table and recover some of the lost space. You can also have a router on that part of the table. Some people add the incra positioning system as well.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


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## SFDCapt (Sep 28, 2013)

jtrirz,

I used SketchUp from google.

Lee


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

I prefer to work with a sliding table. You might consider a future acquisition.

At this point I think I have 25 or so woodworking machines. I am
not a collector, each machine has a specific use. While I'm a bit 
unusual and could get by with the stuff you have, there may
come a time when you other machine acquisitions have you wanting
a table saw setup with a smaller footprint.

In making furniture (not plywood casework) the times when
you'll need a 52" rip fence are not that often, and if you
really think about it, you might as well go to 72" in order
to crosscut pantry sides if cabinetry is what you're going 
to be doing.

I find a 30" rip fence adequate. I use a vertical panel
saw or a track saw on big sheets. If I had room for
an outrigger type sliding table like an Excalibur I would
still not have much use for more than 30" fence 
capacity.


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## BArnold (May 20, 2013)

Longer rails mean you can breakdown sheet goods easier. I wouldn't consider anything less than 52" rails.


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

I think you will be happy with the wide rails…and hey, throw a router in there and you could be off and running. I have seen a lot of guys with all sorts of cabinets for storage, routers, you name it under those saws with the wide rails.

As for me, I am stuck in a one car garage so 52 inches is simply too wide. My Grizzly 1023RLW had the 30 inch rip capacity, but I relocated the rails 10 inches outboard (per Notscott's instructions). Now I have 37 inches of rip capacity. Perfect for cross cutting cabinet base sides (34 1/2).

Since I can't go wider, I usually use Cutlist to get the parts layout and have the lumber yard make the first cut. Sometimes I have them cross cut at 32 inches and sometimes rip at 24. I do have a track saw for other cuts that either I can't do on the saw or don't feel comfortable doing it by myself.

Good luck on your saw/shop endeavor. Here are a couple of pics. Others are in my projects ifn you wanna take a look-see.

Mike
Rails relocated 10 inches outboard with plywood filler.









Back side of mod.



























New sled…more pics and details in my projects.


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