# Question about using tile over cedar.



## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

Is there anyone out there who is knowledgeable about tile and it's installations in some rather unorthodox manners?

I would like to inlay a tile on my table. 









I am looking for a nice flower tile around 8×8 up to 12×12 with a flat surface. I want to build the table to have the tile in the center. I'm going shopping tomorrow to find one and build the table and see how it looks. I think that I may also replace the decorative cut of the chair skirt with some tile that matches the table.

So what kind of base should I put under this tile and what should I use to adhere it?


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

You have a couple options Russ, if sticking directly to the wood, you could use a silicone adhesive. It will allow some flex. You could also use a cement 1/4" backer board screwed to the top, with a quality thinset that can handle freeze/ thaw. You would then need a band/edge/frame around it. Make sure the tile can handle frost too. Not a problem for porcelain tile, but can be for ceramic.


----------



## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

Thanks Shane. I was considering one large tile, so I think gluing it on would probably work okay. When I find a tile for the chair skirts, I'll likely inlay it. I may need to just redesign the whole table. I don't know how the slats will look with a tile inset. Problem is, I want the slats because it matches the chair seat.


----------



## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

I inlaid tile (really just framed around it) on a kitchen island. I didn't attach it but just placed it over a layer of floor underlayment foam. It is heavy enough that you can't tell it's not attached and it could be removed with a thin putty knife if it was ever broken or if my wife wanted to change colors. There is a pic in my early projects.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

tile is pretty heavy. Make sure what you have for legs will support it.


----------



## Swyftfeet (Jun 15, 2012)

Bonding tile directly to wood in an outdoor application is going to fail at some time. Tile requires a dimensionally stable surface. If you can hide the edges, I would use something like 1/4" wedi-board, which is its own cleavage membrane. Regardless of how you do it, you're gonna want to use the tinted pure silicone caulk in lue of grout.

If you're dead-set and you absolutely have to bond directly to the wood, I would used a a flexible sealant like RTV to bond to the wood, no guarantees on how long it would last..


----------



## reggiek (Jun 12, 2009)

If possible, I would add an underlayment (concrete backer board is commonly used)- it is fairly inexpensive and can be bought at local hardware or big borg stores. Since this is outside, I would use the water resistent version - usually a light green color.

The other issues of using tile on furniture is that it must lay flat and not have gaps or voids underneath it to create flex or torsion - this will cause the tile to crack or the grout to separate (allowing leaks and damage to your underlayment). Underlayment (either concrete backer board - or at least some exterior grade plywood) helps keep the tile flat and helps reduce motion pressure on the tile.

I would also recommend you use a sanded grout (has more flex) and make sure your tile is sealed - or you should seal it with a good water resistent sealer - there are some good products out there to seal and protect the tile from moisture related damage.


----------

