# Pockethole question: wood types



## AwlThat (Mar 1, 2018)

I was wondering about the use of pockethole joinery with different kinds of wood.

I've seen them used plywood to plywood (Ron Paulk's workbench is a good example) and then of course, plywood to 2×4's (I know, a 2×4 is not a type of wood).

What I'm getting at is, I want to build a workbench and I plan to make the top similar to Paulk's design and I'm going to use a base of 2×4's. Putting aside access issues when driving the screws, would it be better to add the pocketholes to the plywood and screw into the 2×4, or the other way around, or does it matter?

Since I've seen them used in plywood to plywood joints, it seems it wouldn't matter if the plywood was the receiving wood, but my opinion is only based on what I've seen and not what I've tried.


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## Monty151 (Nov 1, 2018)

Hey Awl,

I did something similar to what you are planning for my work bench. I drilled my pocket holes into the ply and drove the screws through to the 2×4. I felt that it would be better to have more material to "hold on" to.

Good luck with your build and have fun.


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## DrDirt (Feb 26, 2008)

Agree with Monty - - -better screw bite in the 2X than the plywood,


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## AwlThat (Mar 1, 2018)

Thanks, guys.

I had the same idea that if given the choice, the beefier wood would be better for receiving the screw.

The plan for my new bench will be, like I said, a 2×4 base with a Paulk-style top. The unique part (well, unique in that I haven't seen it on YouTube yet, lol) will be a flip up shelf within the top for my miter saw. When not is use, it will fold down into the table and will be covered by a slide-in piece of table top, similar to Dave Boelenski's "Ulitimate Space Saving Workbench", on YouTube. The fold-up shelf idea is not unique, but I haven't seen one built into a Paulk-style table top.

I want to use Nick Ferry's potting table/workbench base design, where he uses 4×4 legs with rabbits and half-laps and such. I want to use the same joinery, i.e. half-laps, for the pieces that will frame out the miter saw area.

Instead of a series of holes in the top, like Paulk's workbench, I'm going to use the t-track system. Along the side where the miter saw will come out, the t-track will line up with the miter saw so that I can use the t-track stop blocks. The slide-out piece of table top will have the joining piece of t-track so that it can go along the length of the table when the miter saw is put away.

Grandiose ideas, but I can't wait to give 'em a try.


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## Monty151 (Nov 1, 2018)

Sounds like an interesting build. Make sure you share photos of it.

Build safe


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## AwlThat (Mar 1, 2018)

Thanks. It won't be until next spring, but I plan to document the experience and will definitely be sharing.


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## tomsteve (Jan 23, 2015)

one thing ill add; if youre screwing into the pine use coarse thread PH screws.


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

If you screw from the plywood to the 2×4 you can use longer screws.


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## BigMig (Mar 31, 2011)

As was said above - a CRITICAL issue is to be sure to use *Coarse* thread screws when screwing into soft woods and plywood; *FINE *screws for hardwoods.


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