# Router Table



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*Design ideas, need some feedback*

OK, so yeah - another blog about a router table, but since I'm going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this.

I've had a Rockler router table top + plate + fence which I got when I bought my router (Bosch 2 1/4hp). It had the misfurtune of being on the floor when my basement was flooded a couple of years ago, so that top was ruined. I since have been planning to replace it with a shop-built version, and make a full enclosed cabinet for it at the same time… it's been a while… I have finally started putting the thought into ink (so to speak).

for the longest time (seriously) I have been keeping my eye open for material for the top that will be:
1. Flat
2. Weather resistant (mostly to water/moisture)
3. Smooth
4. Thick
5. Inexpensive

5 things, that when combined together don't really go together hand in hand with what's on the market. so I waited for a long time till last week I had my hands on a 1 3/8" Canvas Phenolic board 35"x36" - perfect size, perfect width, smooth, flat, and workable. AND, can handle the weather better than wood/MDF/Fiberboard would.

This thing though is crazy heavy, I can hardly lift it myself.

So I started designing how I'd cut the top and make use of it for an Incra Fence. I will eventually like to get an LS positioner (17") but at the moment I just dont have any more funds to contribute to any of that, so I have to settle for a garage-sale found Original Incra Jig that I found for $20.

*THOUGHT #1 (Feedback most welcome)*:
As much as I'd like to incorporate a router lift into this table, I just cannot spend any more money right now, and getting a $300 lift and plate is out of the question. I thought about getting a similar size plate for ~$40 and use that as a 'temporary' place holder until I can afford a lift, but I could also just mount my fixed base of the router (that would otherwise be mounted to the plate) directly to the table top, and route a small 4"x4" hole for a shop-made insert that I can close in around the bits:










I've seen other's have similar setup. my only concern is how easy access to the router would be. any takes on this? would you prefer to have a removeable plate? would you rather have the router mounted directly to the table top?

*THOUGHT #2 (Feedback most welcome)*:
The other things I'm contemplating is how extreme I should go with supporting that top. my initial design is a torsion-box structure under the plate that will support the top throughout the plane, and will help avoid low/high spots in the long run (also will hide the electrical switch and cables in it):










Am I going overboard here? is this too much? I guess in this respect, I'd rather go overboard today, then wish I had added that extra support further down the line. should I enclose the torsion structure from underneath, or just leave it 'open' as it?

Thanks in Advance for all responses, and comments. I'm really excited about finally getting this project going, and can't wait to actually have a router table again to use.


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## TraumaJacques (Oct 25, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Design ideas, need some feedback*
> 
> OK, so yeah - another blog about a router table, but since I'm going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this.
> 
> ...


Hi my name is Jacques and I have a woodworking problem well so she says anyway….
Now on to the topic of you router table, to answer the question rhetorical or not here goes," no you are not going overboard" torsion table designs are here to stay and you will enjoy the benefits of a "flat" surface for many years to come, well worth spending the time to build it correctly. 
Nice one by the way.


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## Woodchuck1957 (Feb 4, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Design ideas, need some feedback*
> 
> OK, so yeah - another blog about a router table, but since I'm going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this.
> 
> ...


I would think that if it's going to be a torsion box, the bottom would have to be covered as well. I have a Woodpeckers Aluminum plate plus the additional 8 pc ringset, 2 come with the plate. I highly recommend the plate. For a router I bought a Porter-Cable 890, it has a quick release to drop the motor out to change bits, and it also has above table hieght adjustment, but you gotta buy the overpriced $30 hieght adjustment tool to do it, so I just adjust the hieght from under the table, it's not hard to do at all and is probably just as fast. The top is 1 1/4" MDF, laminated on both sides and edged with a rubber bumper, it was office cubicle desktop material.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Design ideas, need some feedback*
> 
> OK, so yeah - another blog about a router table, but since I'm going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this.
> 
> ...


Thanks guys, Torsion box it is then. it makes sense to enclose the bottom, as that will give it more rigidity.

*Woodchuck* - eventually I'd like to get the woodpeckers router lift, I think it's the best out there, but for now I need to watch my expenses for a while, so I need to find a temporary solution since if I'm spending $100 on the woodpeckers plate alone, I might as well shell out the difference and get the lift with it . I also cannot afford getting another router right now, so the porter cable is our of the questions although its a nice one to have permanently installed in a table. my bosch does have above the table height adjustment that I can incorporate to any setup I make (drill an extra hole for the height screw).


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## EEngineer (Jul 4, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Design ideas, need some feedback*
> 
> OK, so yeah - another blog about a router table, but since I'm going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this.
> 
> ...


I have the woodpecker quicklift in my router table. You simply cannot beat it. Above the table height dial-in and quick lift above the table for changing bits - I just never, ever have to go below the table for anything.

But yeah, it was expensive - I spent more on the Quicklift than on the router table and router together (see the story in my projects, I really lucked out on the router table).

So, if you don't get a lift, get a plate the same size and make it removable. The router is not accessable enough under the table, particularly given the design you present here. With a removable plate, you can always lift the router out of the table for access and eventually replace it with a quicklift, which is what I consider ideal. They make simple router plates exactly the same cutout as the lift. In fact, they have several different dimensions on the lifts to support different manufacturers standard cutouts.

For several years I put up with a simple router table that had the router permanently fastened below the table and a small hole for bits with different size throats for different bits - usable, but what a pain!


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Design ideas, need some feedback*
> 
> OK, so yeah - another blog about a router table, but since I'm going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this.
> 
> ...


It is not a true torsion box but the grid still works similar to a torsion box if it is connected at several points. It looks like overkill to me but that is not going to hurt anything. The project is not very big and you are not really costing yourself any extra in materials. You are cutting a few more pieces but that is not really a big issue because to make a grid is production style workflow.

I have a philosophy on building projects for the shop. This is the perfect place to hone your skills and the shop makes a good proving ground to see how certain styles of construction hold up over time.

The torsion box is not really as necessary to create a flat table as most people think. None of my shop tables have torsion box tops and they are all very flat and they are old enough that they would have sagged by now. You can check them out in my shop photos or go to my website and look at my shop (same photos.)


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## Woodchuck1957 (Feb 4, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Design ideas, need some feedback*
> 
> OK, so yeah - another blog about a router table, but since I'm going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this.
> 
> ...


If that top wieghs as much as you describe, maybe you will need to timber frame the cabinet, lol. Could be a cool design if done right.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Design ideas, need some feedback*
> 
> OK, so yeah - another blog about a router table, but since I'm going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this.
> 
> ...


Thanks *Todd*, I do believe this Grid is an overkill, but like you said - it's a small scale, and will not hurt anyone, and I'm not really losing much material here.

I have the philosophy like yours that the shop is the best place to train yourself on techniques and designs - see my Hand Tool Cabinet Blog

*EEngineer*, I have my eye on the Woodpecker PRL2 lift, but it'll be a while since I can get that, and their "simple" plates are ~$100 which is not cheap either - definitely if you consider it "temporary". I think I'll try to make a similar size plate our of phenolic board (I have another phenolic board that is 5/8" thick) that I can use as a temporary solution while still being able to lift it up for bit changes. could you do me a favor and verify that the lift plate size is what they advertise it to be (I think it's 9 1/4" x 11 3/4")? I'd really appreciate it. Thanks again

*Woodchuck* - haha, dont make me change my entire design! lol… I can lift a 45lbs weight in each hand, but this top was difficult. maybe it's because of it's large size that it felt harder to lift…


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## Woodchuck1957 (Feb 4, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Design ideas, need some feedback*
> 
> OK, so yeah - another blog about a router table, but since I'm going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this.
> 
> ...


Yeah, well the top will lose some wieght after you chop a big hole in it for the plate. lol.


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## EEngineer (Jul 4, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Design ideas, need some feedback*
> 
> OK, so yeah - another blog about a router table, but since I'm going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this.
> 
> ...


They make two different sizes - 8 1/4" X 11 3/4" and 9 1/4" X 11 3/4". I don't remember which mine is. I do remember measuring the cutout and finding it was exactly the quoted size. I'll check this for you when the weather gets nicer.

You aren't necessarily stuck with a woodpecker plate. My router table was originally cut for a Jessem plate (I think theirs start at $50) and one of those sizes is the same as the Jessem plates.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Design ideas, need some feedback*
> 
> OK, so yeah - another blog about a router table, but since I'm going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this.
> 
> ...


That is true *Woodchuck*, I will also trim it from the 35" current width, to a 28" wide top, which will reduce another large amount of weight. (I might use the extra cutoff piece as fences material)

Great *EEngineer*, that would be most helpful, just to be on the safe size before I'm cutting the wrong size hole (I can always transform this table top to a counter top with a builtin trash hole. I just checked and it does seem like the JessEm plates are similar in size (9.1/4×11.1/4) maybe I'll go that route, or … just make my own… I guess I have options


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## naperville (Jan 28, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Design ideas, need some feedback*
> 
> OK, so yeah - another blog about a router table, but since I'm going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this.
> 
> ...


Hey PurpLev,
Remember, if you box the router inside a cabinet and don't have enough ventilation, it will burn out. I lost one router to this situation. I modified the cabinet with a dedicated dust collector, and while it kept the router cool, it did not do a good job of evacuating the dust, since most of the dust was generated above the router opening.
While it is nothing to write home about, my new table (see workshop pictures) is just a double layup of MDF with laminate on a rockler base. It throws the sawdust around, but that's what the shopvac is for.

Sincerely,

Tom


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Design ideas, need some feedback*
> 
> OK, so yeah - another blog about a router table, but since I'm going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this.
> 
> ...


Thanks Tom, I will have dust collection setup for this, and this will show in the next few sketchup models, right now I'm still focused on the top = plate and support. once that's dialed in, everything else will follow. I do plan to incorporate dust ports for under/inside AND over the table that will both go to my dust collector.

*If anyone can help me get the exact dimensions of a Woodpecker/pinnacle lift plate I would really appreciate it. width, length, depth, and the radius of the corners (radius can be matched with drill bit size/hole) this way I can make a template, and create a temporary plate that could be swapped later with an identical size lift plate - I'll also make a Sketchup model, and post it here for others to use * does anyone happen to have any such templates scanned for 1-1 scale?


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## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Design ideas, need some feedback*
> 
> OK, so yeah - another blog about a router table, but since I'm going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this.
> 
> ...


Take a look at my blog on the build out of my router table. I cover my modifications to the classic Norm Table and the reasoning behind why I did what I did, it might help you out with yours.

I love mine btw! If you look at my project you will see that I am using mine with a Incra Orginal Jig.


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Design ideas, need some feedback*
> 
> OK, so yeah - another blog about a router table, but since I'm going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this.
> 
> ...


Just an observation, but why do you have so much table space on the "back" side of the top? Most cutting takes place on the side towards the miter slot and on the right side as you face the table. To me, it would make more sense to have the majority of table surface space in the "front". If I missed something, I apologize for the comment.


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## naperville (Jan 28, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Design ideas, need some feedback*
> 
> OK, so yeah - another blog about a router table, but since I'm going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this.
> 
> ...


PurpLev,
I have the Woodpecker Quicklift, will that do? If so, I could get you some measurements tomorrow when I'm back in the shop.

Tom


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## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Design ideas, need some feedback*
> 
> OK, so yeah - another blog about a router table, but since I'm going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this.
> 
> ...


lew,

Are you asking about the bulge in the back? It is for a Incra Original Jig, instead of having a offset table to accommodate this type of fence I added the bulge to the back to allow for the Incra Jig the space it needed to travel. As for the placement of the plate/router itself that is where Norm put it.


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Design ideas, need some feedback*
> 
> OK, so yeah - another blog about a router table, but since I'm going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this.
> 
> ...


I see now, I'm not that familiar with the Incra. Makes perfect sense now.


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## Blake (Oct 17, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Design ideas, need some feedback*
> 
> OK, so yeah - another blog about a router table, but since I'm going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this.
> 
> ...


There are lots of great ideas for router table design on Lumberjocks. Here's one more to look at:



Make sure to check out the blog associated with my router table (the link is in the project post).

I don't think I would want a torsion box-style top on a router table. I made mine out of two laminated pieces of MDF. It is solid, nice and heavy, and VERY flat.


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## Blake (Oct 17, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Design ideas, need some feedback*
> 
> OK, so yeah - another blog about a router table, but since I'm going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this.
> 
> ...


Actually I just went back and looked at your drawings more closely. Its not a torsion box, but just support for a phenolic top.

I actually agree with Todd. The supports are a little overkill. As long as they are not so far apart that they will allow sagging in between it is enough. That entire grid on the right side could be eliminated in my opinion. That section isn't even supporting the weight of a router. It will be fine. The commercial versions are just one rectangle of support around the edge of the table and maybe one cross member. I understand that your top is heavy, but Phenolic is also very rigid. Its not going to sag between one foot of open space below it.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Design ideas, need some feedback*
> 
> OK, so yeah - another blog about a router table, but since I'm going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this.
> 
> ...


*Tom* - Thank you for the offer, that would be fantastic if you could get me those measurements! I believe that all the woodpecker/pinnacle plates are of the same size, I just need to verify precisely what those are, and also verify the thickness of the plate, and the radius of the corners (those things are nowhere to be found online) - much appreciated!!!

*sIKE* - thanks for the link, I checked your blog - Nicely done! As far as cabinet construction, I have my own design,which I will post later on when I get to it, I just needed to finalize a decision on the top, since everything else will rely on that choice. I like your choice of electric switch and miter slot (I noted those before) and will most likely use the same.

*lew*, the design is an Offset table to accommodate an Incra Jig positioning fence, if you're not familiar with it - I highly recommend checking out www.incra.com website and watching their demos - I think their fences are top notch, brilliant (and simple) idea, and nicely put together!


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Design ideas, need some feedback*
> 
> OK, so yeah - another blog about a router table, but since I'm going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this.
> 
> ...


Thanks *Blake*, your blog has been on my fav. list for a long time now. eventually I would like to go ahead with the same 17" LS positioner. speaking of which - I would like to plan ahead, and make sure my top will be able to accommodate for the 17" LS - how much distance do you need between the LS mounting base and the router bit when the positioner is extended all the way? and how deep is the mounting base (I'd rather have it installed so that it doesnt protrude from the back of the top, but flush, as on your top)?

Maybe I'll ease off the grid construction on the back side, and make it less complicated (maybe just keep the 4 long support bars).


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## Woodchuck1957 (Feb 4, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Design ideas, need some feedback*
> 
> OK, so yeah - another blog about a router table, but since I'm going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this.
> 
> ...


Woodpeckers sells a MDF template and router bit to route out the opening for their plates. I bought them when I bought the plate. Perfect fit. The Woodpeckers plate is 3/8" thick, I went just a hair more for set screw leveling


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Design ideas, need some feedback*
> 
> OK, so yeah - another blog about a router table, but since I'm going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this.
> 
> ...


Thanks Woodchuck!


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## PG_Zac (Feb 14, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Design ideas, need some feedback*
> 
> OK, so yeah - another blog about a router table, but since I'm going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this.
> 
> ...


Lev,
Thanks for the models by the way. The guys at Incra are pleased too.

A few thoughts on some of the points raised here:

1. Torsion box - Cool, but delete the two longer slats on the right of the table. Keep the short ones.

2. Before Router Lift - In my first R-Table I mounted my router under an off-cut piece of 8mm thick perspex that I set into the table. I strongly recommend that you include some sort of removable plate, even if it is 1/2" plywood. I think it would make life difficult if you have to mount and dismount the router from under the table each time. Just make sure it's smaller than the router lift you intend buying later - that way you don't have to replace the table top.

3. Router Lift - I was tempted to buy the PRL2, but I bought the PRL instead. Why? Because the PRL lifing mechanism locks automatically when you remove the crank handle. With the PRL2 you must remember to lock the lift before working. I'd rather not thake the chance. I have a simplified model of the PRL if you'd like it. The dimensions of the top are accurate to +- 0.5 mm, but the corner radius is pure guess. (I bought their template for accuracy) I have only a reserved space underneath the top rather than the mechanism. It work for my design needs.

4. Dust collection - In my new table I'm placing dust collection in the fence, *and *below the table. My router will be housed in a cabinet as I think yours will be. The cabinet door on mine will have at least 2mm gap all around to allow cooling air to flow past the router even when a workpiece blocks the table-top hole.

Good luck with the design and the manufacture.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Design ideas, need some feedback*
> 
> OK, so yeah - another blog about a router table, but since I'm going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this.
> 
> ...


Thanks *Zac*, based on peoples responses here which strengthen my original thoughts, I'll simplify the grid design. I thought also about making a 'smaller then router lift' plate, but I'd rather cut the top once (not for worries that I might ruin the top - just cause I'm lazy). very good point about the dust collection you made about leaving a gap in the door - I didn't think about those times when I'll have the wood completely close the router bit opening - note taken.

I too have thought about the issue with the locking mechanism on the PRL2, but really want the ability to bring the router up in a sec for bit changes without having to crank the precision handle back and forth, and the only other solution for quick bit changes is the Quick-Lift which I really don't like since the router is mounted on 2 posts that are on the same side of the plate which in the long run I believe will cause the router to get out of plumb. I think each lift mechanism out there has it's limitations, and what I like about the PRL2 is: 1. quick release for bit changes, 2. thumb wheel - no extra tools required, 3. no drive chains - less pieces that can have issues. from reviews I've seen the lock mechanism isnt too big of an issue, but it's definitely something to keep an eye for. it's a matter of pros/cons and the PRL2 in my opinion wins compared to others (for my preferences).


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## PG_Zac (Feb 14, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Design ideas, need some feedback*
> 
> OK, so yeah - another blog about a router table, but since I'm going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this.
> 
> ...


A further thought on the Router Plate:

I don't have absolute faith in someone else's measurements. I don't know if that person is as picky as me, and I also don't know if their measuring instruments are exactly the same as mine. When last was your tape measure calibrated LOL Mine never has been. I know for a fact that my two 5m tape measures are at least 0.5mm per 1m different from each other. I always stay with one tape measure for an entire project for that reason.

I know you don't want to shell out for the Lift now, but I suggest you buy their template now before you cut into your nice new phenolic top. You don't want to find out that the hole is 0.5mm oversize after you buy the Lift.

Maybe I'm just picky, but I'm and engineer - I'm supposed to be LOL


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## JohnGray (Oct 6, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Design ideas, need some feedback*
> 
> OK, so yeah - another blog about a router table, but since I'm going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this.
> 
> ...


FWIW - I can't see spending big bucks for a router lift. 
My router table, http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/JohnGray/blog/5615, I did not use a lift. When I want to change or recalibrate a bit I simply unplug the router, remove the plate and router, take it to the bench, and do whatever is needed. When it's on the bench it's easier to see what you are doing than having to fiddle with it in the table.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Design ideas, need some feedback*
> 
> OK, so yeah - another blog about a router table, but since I'm going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this.
> 
> ...


*John*, I think that It's a matter of convenience and personal preference mostly. for me I find it much easier to be able to sneak up on cuts and fine tune depth of cuts with a turn of a dial as opposed to getting to the router, unlocking the depth fastener, changing height of cutter, locking router again, and repeat… Also to change bits without having to pull the router out, taking it out of the plate base, and returning everything to it's proper place… just a matter of convenience I guess and personal preference.


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## SCOTSMAN (Aug 1, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Design ideas, need some feedback*
> 
> OK, so yeah - another blog about a router table, but since I'm going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this.
> 
> ...


make your own lift plate a lift plate is useless in any case unless you can change tools-bits from above the table get a router bit extension this will help good luck Alistair


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Design ideas, need some feedback*
> 
> OK, so yeah - another blog about a router table, but since I'm going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this.
> 
> ...


OK, so based on your feedback guys (Thank you so much) I think I'll make my own phenolic plate and see how that will work for the time being. I'll make it the same size as the pinnacle/woodpecker plate so that if I ever want to upgrade it'll be an easy swap. I placed the plate 6" from the left side of the table which I think will be a good amount of support, and will also give me enough space on the right size to fit an Incra LS17" in the future should I decide to do so. the fit will be marginal, but it will be possible.

I also removed most of the grid support, and stuck with 4 lateral ribs that will help even out the support for the top and all. and I also moved the middle panel more to the left - reducing the size of the cabinet for the motor (doesn't really need that much room, and will make dust extraction easier and more efficient) and enlarging the other side that will be made for storage/drawers:










Note the "place holder" on top of the table top - this is a template I made from Incra online info regarding space required for the LS17" positioner - looks like it'll fit in there, maybe protrude a bit from the back, but there's little I can do about that.










*Thank you everyone that posted, and offered insights and suggestions!*


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## core10 (Apr 10, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Design ideas, need some feedback*
> 
> OK, so yeah - another blog about a router table, but since I'm going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this.
> 
> ...


If you haven't started construction yet I have one more idea for you. Construct a basic torsion frame for the top, attach it to the top and surface mount your router, then hinge the whole thing. It's a design I saw in "Woodworking With The Router" by Bill Hylton, an excellent book. Of course you'd have to find or make some pretty serious supports for when the top is lifted, but that shouldn't be too hard.

Just a thought.
-Sean


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Design ideas, need some feedback*
> 
> OK, so yeah - another blog about a router table, but since I'm going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this.
> 
> ...


Thanks *Sean*, I actually saw someone online doing a similar thing and thought it's a cool idea ( the hinge), I may just incorporate that into the top as I have 3 spare door hinges laying around. About the Torsion-box idea - since I already have the thick top, I dont think I'll want to replace it with a torsion-box, and since it's phenolic board and not wood, it'll be impossible to glue this thing properly as part of a torsion box (and In my case, I dont think this will be necessary), so I'll stick with the support beams under, and the top resting on those.


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## core10 (Apr 10, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Design ideas, need some feedback*
> 
> OK, so yeah - another blog about a router table, but since I'm going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this.
> 
> ...


That's pretty much what I meant, sorry I was unclear. My idea is a torsion box frame underneath your phenolic top, something just to make sure everything stays nice and straight. Perhaps I should just call it a frame like you.


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## woodpick (Mar 29, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Design ideas, need some feedback*
> 
> OK, so yeah - another blog about a router table, but since I'm going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this.
> 
> ...


I built a router table which you can see at www.woodshopics.com. I wanted a longer table to support my work so I took one of Norm Abrams plans and altered it as you can see if you visit my website. It's build mainly from 3/4" maple plywood with some maple trim. I used Woodpecker's router lift which I have been very happy with. I was concerned about building the fence out of MDF but it has worked perfectly. First, I purchased the fine grain MDF and covered the appropriated faces with formica. The fence is accurate, easy to move and will handle tall stuff. The extra plate on the table is nice to house a router with a roundover bit which I seem to use all the time. I have an extra blank plate with I can insert in place of the router plate with the router with a roundover bit. Any questions, you can email me at [email protected]


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## allthunbs (May 29, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Design ideas, need some feedback*
> 
> OK, so yeah - another blog about a router table, but since I'm going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this.
> 
> ...


Ok, I'm sorry, I just don't get it. What is it with these "position systems" and "router lifts?" I pop out my base plate, grab a couple of wrenches, change the bit, set the depth dump the whole mess back into the table clamp the end of the fence on, set the width of the cut, clamp on the other end, adjust judiciously lock 'er down and away I go molding the edge of a board that I could do with a bearing on a bit. Wherein comes the need for 1/1000ths inch precision on something that will move that much in a minute or less?

If you were using a router lathe and that 3', three rope, unsupported twist with the ball in the middle decided to move 1/1000ths of an inch you wouldn't notice it let alone do something about it.

I need some hard facts to sell me on the idea that a micrometer positioned router fence means a whole lot. I can get an accurate adjustment, a whole lot quicker with a hammer.

This is in no way a criticism of anyone but more an expression of my frustration. I need help setting the hook on a scraper because my hook is too thin not what is the latest toy. I get that in the wood shows.

Sorry Mick. Venting!


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Design ideas, need some feedback*
> 
> OK, so yeah - another blog about a router table, but since I'm going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this.
> 
> ...


no worries- as you said, for me it's not really about the 'need', but more about the want. is it a toy? definitely. does it help me out? yes it does. I don't get to spend much shop time, so I do, I want to be able to set things quickly and continue where I left off - few days/weeks/months ago with little fuss as possible. I also like the possibilities this precision presents for joinery which although not impossible - but harder without it.

when you think about it - even a router is not really needed. one really can make anything with just a chisel and mallet (even that can be argued) - it's all about convenience, and preferences. to each their own.


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## michelletwo (Feb 22, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Design ideas, need some feedback*
> 
> OK, so yeah - another blog about a router table, but since I'm going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this.
> 
> ...


Hey A. venting is an allthunbs tradition. Why stop now? I agree partially. Most folks don't need that micro-ability for what they do. But when one is making finger joints, or some other more complicated work, that fancy Incra or Jointech sure makes the whole process so much simpler and less worrisome.


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## allthunbs (May 29, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Design ideas, need some feedback*
> 
> OK, so yeah - another blog about a router table, but since I'm going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this.
> 
> ...


I learned to use measuring blocks. More accurate, (don't think rules and scales are accurate) a lot faster, and less error prone. Combined with my fine adjusting tool (a 16 oz hammer) you can't find a faster, more accurate measuring method for routers.

Turners-you're on your own.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Design ideas, need some feedback*
> 
> OK, so yeah - another blog about a router table, but since I'm going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this.
> 
> ...


I must say that I partially agree that rulers and scales shouldn't be completely trusted in the shop - but the scales on the positioners are not intended to find that exact 1.001" from the edge of a board - but repeatability and the ability to get back to the exact same position over and over again - regardless of where it is in terms of distance/numerical value. actually - the templates don't have any numbers on them - only reference marks that you can come back to even after doing a different operation with the router table.

like any other power tool in the shop - it's all about repeatability, and consistency without having to pull out that measuring block for each and every cut you make. I am in no way an advocate for Incra- but with all due respect, I highly doubt you could compete with the positioner with your measuring blocks and hammer for intricate joinery work. again - the strength of these really pops up when you focus on those projects more than edge treatment, In which case they really may not justify their price and space.


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## allthunbs (May 29, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Design ideas, need some feedback*
> 
> OK, so yeah - another blog about a router table, but since I'm going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this.
> 
> ...


Hi PurpLev:

I have 3 four foot scales in my shop. I compared each measurement to a 6" digital micrometer. None of the scales, except my father's pre-war 4 foot, is accurate. I have one 39" (metre stick) that is out almost 1/8" over it's length. None of my tape measures are usable either for any more than close guesswork.

My measuring blocks are sold as being +/- 2 thou and the 3-2-1 block is sold as accurate to 2/10000 (Lee valley part no. 05n58.01).

My measurement technique is to place the extreme tip of the cutting edge against the block with barely a bit of resistance between them. I certainly can't be out more than 5/1000ths repeatedly. I've tried repeatability tests with rules and even using ruler stops, I can't get better.

I do pull out the measuring blocks for every measurement. Along with an optical centre they are in constant use in my shop. I figure I can add enough error on my own, I don't need my tools adding to the confusion.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Design ideas, need some feedback*
> 
> OK, so yeah - another blog about a router table, but since I'm going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this.
> 
> ...


I fully agree with you on scales varying in measurements between one another - a good reason not to rely on the numbers, and if you must - then always use the same ruler for all the measurements of a given project.

a 3-2-1 block is a fantastic tool.

however my point was - in order to make a double dovetail jointed 12"x12"x10" box a positioner system makes things easier - just 1 example. FYI - there are 0 numbers used for measurements when making that box. you are not taking measurements, and not positioning anything to a known numerical distance value, but the ability of the fence to get to specific cut locations time and time again without having to measure even once is fantastic.


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## allthunbs (May 29, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Design ideas, need some feedback*
> 
> OK, so yeah - another blog about a router table, but since I'm going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this.
> 
> ...


I went to see Woodhacker's article on "hand cut double dovetail experiment" to see how you're using the fence or position-er. All I got was "Upgrade to Pro today! Bandwidth Exceeded." It must be a Micro$oft service. May I suggest Picasa.

PurpLev, I need a lesson in double dovetails. Could you oblige please. I'm still trying to figure out where a setup block is less effective than a thumb screw.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Design ideas, need some feedback*
> 
> OK, so yeah - another blog about a router table, but since I'm going to make one , might as well document it while I go, maybe someone can benefit from this.
> 
> ...


Iallthunbs, I think Woodhacker either removed his pics from photobucket, removed his account with them. he did however do a really good job. that said. it did take him a while to make it. nothing is impossible -it's all matter of personal choice how to do things.

If you are so inclined - you can check Incra's website, they have all the demos there on how the positioner is used. I don't really like to think that I market for them - just another happy customer that appreciate their products.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*The Motor's In - Triton 3.25hp TRC001 1/2" Precision Router*

It really started a while back, I got hooked on the idea of a router lift for the table after seeing the Incra Router lift with the magnetic inserts. after that the obsession was fed by finding Woodpeckers' router lifts with the quick release mechanism which allows for quick lift of the router to rough positioning, and for pulling it all the way up for over the table bit change.

then came the Woodpeckers PRL-V2 (also rebranded by Incra with their magnetic inserts, and recently also rebranded by Kreg tools.) which blew me away. I'll admit it - I'm very mechanical and electronic and I love those devices.

my barrier was the $300 price. which for my 'serious' hobby, I cannot justify at the moment - same goes with the Incra LS-TS fence which I would really like, and this router table is designed for - yet, just cannot justify the expense.

Then came the Rockler sale for their (Jessem) router lift. it was (still is) affordable, yet does not have the quick lift feature for rough positioning and over the table bit change. so, no go for me.

Then came the Woodcraft sale for the Triton 3.25hp router, which caught my eye, but wasn't enough to make me consider it too seriously. Thanks to Daniel (LJ craftsman-on-the-lake) who brought it back to mind as he started a discussion about it here. reading through reviews, it seemed like a good unit, at a great price. it can be used in a router table, and has built in lift mechanism, has both rough positioning and fine tune positioning possibilities, and has above table bit change feature using only 1 wrench (auto collet lock). this will also be a more powerful motor for use under the table (as opposed to my 2.25hp bosch) and will also free up my bosch for free hand work.

however, I figured there must be a reason why they updated that router model (hence the old model was on sale).

further researching showed that the new model also comes with above table crank handle. for some this is no biggy, but since I plan on enclosing the router in the table, I figured this might come in handy. also the router received some upgraded design and parts, such as sealed power switch (If it's enclosed in the table, I'd rather have it sealed from dust), the lift plastic gear has been replaced with a metal gear, the lift bushing has been updated for smoother travel, and the collet reducer (for 1/4" bits) have been changed for better use.

I figured the extra is worth my peace of mind, and made the plunge (pun intended) and ordered it from woodcraft.com. we're in the holiday season and they have free shipping on everything which was a nice bonus. (woodcraft don't carry this router locally here).

The router arrived one day earlier than expected. I have yet to use it, but my first impression is a positive one- it feels comfortable in my hand, heavier than my 2.25 Bosch, but not overly heavy that it would feel uncomfortable. all the mechanisms work pretty nicely.










All in all, it's an expense that I wasn't really planning to make, but am very happy with it as this will allow me to continue with the router table project, and get something that will work as I wanted it, with the lift capabilities I was hoping for, a bigger motor than I would have had until now, at a low(er) cost than other options would have cost me.

Triton seems to be controversial as they went under last year, and were resurrected, they have minimal online resources, and seems like there are still some things floating around. hopefully I can add a bit more content online regarding this unit.

I'll review this router as I get to use it for making the router table (I will use this one freehand as opposed to using my lighter bosch just so that I can get a feel for how this one performs while I can still do something about it).

This router table project feels stuck, I have so many ideas for it. maybe too many that I'm overloaded, and can't find a combination of them all that I would like. uughhh…


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## RetiredCoastie (Sep 7, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *The Motor's In - Triton 3.25hp TRC001 1/2" Precision Router*
> 
> It really started a while back, I got hooked on the idea of a router lift for the table after seeing the Incra Router lift with the magnetic inserts. after that the obsession was fed by finding Woodpeckers' router lifts with the quick release mechanism which allows for quick lift of the router to rough positioning, and for pulling it all the way up for over the table bit change.
> 
> ...


Looks great, Glad to hear the lift gear is metal. Keep us posted on the evaluation. I'll probably buy one after my shop gets put back together. Thanks for the update.


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## Cory (Jan 14, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *The Motor's In - Triton 3.25hp TRC001 1/2" Precision Router*
> 
> It really started a while back, I got hooked on the idea of a router lift for the table after seeing the Incra Router lift with the magnetic inserts. after that the obsession was fed by finding Woodpeckers' router lifts with the quick release mechanism which allows for quick lift of the router to rough positioning, and for pulling it all the way up for over the table bit change.
> 
> ...


Good info. I'm looking forward to the review of the router.

As for being stuck in a plan, I know exactly how you feel. My only advice would be to make a decision and start building. If you're like me, there will be modifications as you go through the build process. After using your table for a while, you'll figure out what you did right and wrong and be able to use that information for the next table. There's really no way to build a "perfect" project in the future without screwing a few things up along the way on your current one.

Good luck!


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## boboswin (May 23, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *The Motor's In - Triton 3.25hp TRC001 1/2" Precision Router*
> 
> It really started a while back, I got hooked on the idea of a router lift for the table after seeing the Incra Router lift with the magnetic inserts. after that the obsession was fed by finding Woodpeckers' router lifts with the quick release mechanism which allows for quick lift of the router to rough positioning, and for pulling it all the way up for over the table bit change.
> 
> ...


I thinks you are really going to like that new router.
I have the older model and it is may favourite of 7.

the other thing that I have enjoyed in my shop for some time is the lee Valley router table top.
It is really under rated in the adverts and magazines.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=41793&cat=1,43053,43885

Bob


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *The Motor's In - Triton 3.25hp TRC001 1/2" Precision Router*
> 
> It really started a while back, I got hooked on the idea of a router lift for the table after seeing the Incra Router lift with the magnetic inserts. after that the obsession was fed by finding Woodpeckers' router lifts with the quick release mechanism which allows for quick lift of the router to rough positioning, and for pulling it all the way up for over the table bit change.
> 
> ...


Thanks guys,

*RetiredCoastie* - review should come around xmas time where I will get some time off from work to do some wwing - hopefully it won't snow too much , but it probably will be freezing temp. brrrr

*Cory* - what do you mean no way to build a 'perfect' project?!?... oh dear… lol. but seriously - I'm still not sure on the design of the table which I can then screwup… one step at a time right? I just need to finalize the general construction to which I Can then add and modify.

*Bob* - I love everything Lee Valley, they have excellent products, and excellent service. WW related - bar none. however after all the trouble I went through to get the material for the top of this table, I HAVE to use it.  I'm glad to hear you like the router so much, your comments made it easier for me to go ahead with this route. thanks again!


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## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *The Motor's In - Triton 3.25hp TRC001 1/2" Precision Router*
> 
> It really started a while back, I got hooked on the idea of a router lift for the table after seeing the Incra Router lift with the magnetic inserts. after that the obsession was fed by finding Woodpeckers' router lifts with the quick release mechanism which allows for quick lift of the router to rough positioning, and for pulling it all the way up for over the table bit change.
> 
> ...


I built my router table and top awhile back. Very satisfied with it. I purchased an aluminum router plate. It's great but if I had to do it again I'd be careful and get one that has a hole large enough to take a 3 1/2 inch raised panel bit. this one has a slightly smaller opening so I must raise the bit above the table and put a 1/8" spacer sheet on the router table. Someday I'll change the plate but I payed for this one and it works for everything else otherwise. My top is on hinges with a chain to stop it at about 95 degrees open. The top is so solid and stiff that a flip up top works nicely.

A couple of other things to watch out for from experience. My dust collection is too small and has been changed from the picture below. You need a wide box behind the fence like seen in commercial fences. Wood often comes off in longer splinters and can't turn to go up the tube. Also, half the shavings end up in the router table so dual dust collection is important or you'll end up scooping out a foot of shavings from inside the table.I have a port on the lower back side.

Also, I made a top by stripping down some selectly picked out fir 2×8's and jointing/planing them to make a sort of butcherblock top. My first one was with braced mdf and it eventually sagged ever so slightly but is really noticable when routing something. The edges will route deeper than the center. The new top works out well and cost a couple of dollars. The t-track holds my roller featherboard and a handmade sled that has an oak slider.


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## Ken90712 (Sep 2, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *The Motor's In - Triton 3.25hp TRC001 1/2" Precision Router*
> 
> It really started a while back, I got hooked on the idea of a router lift for the table after seeing the Incra Router lift with the magnetic inserts. after that the obsession was fed by finding Woodpeckers' router lifts with the quick release mechanism which allows for quick lift of the router to rough positioning, and for pulling it all the way up for over the table bit change.
> 
> ...


Sommerfelds Tools swear by this router. I just recommended to a buddy to buy this one on sale at wood craft for his father's X-mas present! I have 3 routers and I'm trying to figure out in my head how to justify a 4th. I know I will win this argument with myself LOL … Nice review!


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *The Motor's In - Triton 3.25hp TRC001 1/2" Precision Router*
> 
> It really started a while back, I got hooked on the idea of a router lift for the table after seeing the Incra Router lift with the magnetic inserts. after that the obsession was fed by finding Woodpeckers' router lifts with the quick release mechanism which allows for quick lift of the router to rough positioning, and for pulling it all the way up for over the table bit change.
> 
> ...


Thanks *Daniel*, thats a nice table! I have a 1-3/8" thick phenolic panel (36"x28") for the top, I might mount the router directly to that, or I have another plate of 5/8" thick phenolic that I can make into a router plate for easier removal of the router from the table - still undecided which route to go (ha, this thread is full of those).

dust collection will be dual path, I have a Jet 1100 that will be the sucker, and will have 1 hose going into the cabinet, and another one that will mount into the fence similar to Incra's Wonder-Fence DC feature.

my indecision has less to do with the top, and more to do with the construction of the cabinet itself (devisions, drawers/doors/ access to router, wheels, etc).

I am definitely copying your roller featherboard though  I found some old rollerblades, and will use their wheels for the rollers.


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## Brad_Nailor (Jul 26, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *The Motor's In - Triton 3.25hp TRC001 1/2" Precision Router*
> 
> It really started a while back, I got hooked on the idea of a router lift for the table after seeing the Incra Router lift with the magnetic inserts. after that the obsession was fed by finding Woodpeckers' router lifts with the quick release mechanism which allows for quick lift of the router to rough positioning, and for pulling it all the way up for over the table bit change.
> 
> ...


Purp…congrats on the purchase! Since I got my unisaw I have been thinking about dropping a router into the extension table so I can take advantage of that Biesmeyer fence for routing. I have read a ton of reviews and this router keeps floating to the surface as one of the best routers…..under the table and freehand. Thanks for clearing a few things up for me..I was wondering why the older one was so cheap…but from the reviews I have read they basically fixed everything that was wrong with the older router in the new one. I love the fact that you can remove the plunge springs without tools….and the above the table bit change /collet lock is so convinient..and it also locks out the power switch so you don't have to unplug the router to do bit changes. I am going to use the Lee Valley 12" round router table insert plate. The magnetic levelers are very cool and the quick release router clamps allow you to leave the router base on, and you can remove and install the router in seconds. From what I have read as far as dust collection goes, the Triton comes with some covers, that when put in place almost eliminates the need for an enclosed dust collection shroud around the router. Good luck and I will be looking forward to seeing what you build around it!


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *The Motor's In - Triton 3.25hp TRC001 1/2" Precision Router*
> 
> It really started a while back, I got hooked on the idea of a router lift for the table after seeing the Incra Router lift with the magnetic inserts. after that the obsession was fed by finding Woodpeckers' router lifts with the quick release mechanism which allows for quick lift of the router to rough positioning, and for pulling it all the way up for over the table bit change.
> 
> ...


Thanks *David*, as I said - LV products are spot on. but currently I'm limited by budget, even this router was kinda over the top, but with the holidays, and a loving wife that got it as a present for me I have it. the router is pretty much fully enclosed for DC, but we'll see how it behaves when I use it freehand first - maybe I wont need cabinet DC after all, either way that would be pretty easy to add on later if needed.

for what it's worth - I don't think the older model was bad - I actually think it's an amazing Bang for the Buck. just knowing myself, I preferred to go with the one that had some of the things worked out. more for convenience, and not having to play around with it in the future I guess.


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## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *The Motor's In - Triton 3.25hp TRC001 1/2" Precision Router*
> 
> It really started a while back, I got hooked on the idea of a router lift for the table after seeing the Incra Router lift with the magnetic inserts. after that the obsession was fed by finding Woodpeckers' router lifts with the quick release mechanism which allows for quick lift of the router to rough positioning, and for pulling it all the way up for over the table bit change.
> 
> ...


Good choice there Sharon.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *The Motor's In - Triton 3.25hp TRC001 1/2" Precision Router*
> 
> It really started a while back, I got hooked on the idea of a router lift for the table after seeing the Incra Router lift with the magnetic inserts. after that the obsession was fed by finding Woodpeckers' router lifts with the quick release mechanism which allows for quick lift of the router to rough positioning, and for pulling it all the way up for over the table bit change.
> 
> ...


Hey Purp. Great choice. I would love to have a Triton router. I am currently using a cheap 2-1/2 hp Chinese one. It isn't great but it works and I can do bit changes on the top of my router table. That said, the lifting, fine adjustment and quality components of the Triton all make it worth the price. I hope you get a lot of enjoyment from it.


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## KentS (May 27, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *The Motor's In - Triton 3.25hp TRC001 1/2" Precision Router*
> 
> It really started a while back, I got hooked on the idea of a router lift for the table after seeing the Incra Router lift with the magnetic inserts. after that the obsession was fed by finding Woodpeckers' router lifts with the quick release mechanism which allows for quick lift of the router to rough positioning, and for pulling it all the way up for over the table bit change.
> 
> ...


Congratulations on the router Sharon. I can't wait to see the finished table. Let us know how the Triton works out. We're looking at bringing them in to the store, so any information is valuable. If you need a router table plan don't ask me, I just started building mine and made it up as I went. I did look at a lot on LJs beforehand though, so I guess I knew where I was headed. Lot's of good ideas here, huh? (Maybe too many)

Good luck
Kent


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## BlankMan (Mar 21, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *The Motor's In - Triton 3.25hp TRC001 1/2" Precision Router*
> 
> It really started a while back, I got hooked on the idea of a router lift for the table after seeing the Incra Router lift with the magnetic inserts. after that the obsession was fed by finding Woodpeckers' router lifts with the quick release mechanism which allows for quick lift of the router to rough positioning, and for pulling it all the way up for over the table bit change.
> 
> ...


Well I see it arrived, congrats. Looking forward to seeing it in the table.


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## fge (Sep 8, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *The Motor's In - Triton 3.25hp TRC001 1/2" Precision Router*
> 
> It really started a while back, I got hooked on the idea of a router lift for the table after seeing the Incra Router lift with the magnetic inserts. after that the obsession was fed by finding Woodpeckers' router lifts with the quick release mechanism which allows for quick lift of the router to rough positioning, and for pulling it all the way up for over the table bit change.
> 
> ...


Very nice, I am wishin Santa brought me one of those things. Need it or not it would still have been fun to play with.

Have fun with your new toy!

Jerry


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*Simplifying and Completing the Design*

Finally had a weekend with shop time, but alas - mother nature had other plans.

Saturday was 14 degrees (F). a bit on the chilly side of things, but I figured I need to make use of that time. so I took out the phenolic sheet (36"x36") and marked it for both 24" width and 28" width. I wanted to get a visual representation of the actual top size. the 28" looked a bit too wide in sketchup, and the 24" is the "standard" when you purchase a top. looking at both marked sized the 28" does looks somewhat too wide, and does not conform to the golden-aspect but the 24" was too narrow especially considering the cabinet space I want to have underneath. I decided on the 28" and made the cut.

I dont like working with phenolic. I really dont. the dust gets on everything, and is super fine. I worked outside with mask/goggles on and made sure garage doors are closed, it still made a mess on everything. I then vaccumed the remains. if it was a warmer day - I might have also air-blow clean my tools (circ-saw) but in such cold temp. my air compressor won't compress air. it'll run and run and run, but the pressure in the tank won't rise- seems like the air is leaking from the actual motor or the motor is not even capable if compressing the cold air. sucks - but that's the DCs job. oh well. have to clean it up when it warms up a bit (summer?)

because of the phenolic dust - I did not have my cam with me, so pics of the top will only be seen later. I took the top and put it on saw horses in the garage which I re-organized to make room for the router table - It will be positioned as an outfeed table for the TS.

Sunday was a bit warmer, but the 8" of snow kept me from getting to the garage. instead, it was snow throwing day. it was snowing for most of the day, and I did not care much for the idea of being inside the garage when snow might be blowing in (cracked window, under garage door)... instead, I figured I might make use of the time to finalize the design in Sketchup and get mentally prepared for the parts I need to make.

This is what I came up with:









the triton router will be mounted directly to the top with no plate - if It doesnt work out I can always cut the opening bigger to drop in a plate later on. under the router there will be a pullout shelf that can house the 2 routers I have for storage. and a set of drawers on the other side for everything router related (layout tools, bits, inserts, jogs, accessories, etc), the shelf under the router is slanted towards the back for DC purposes:









what I like about sketchup, is how it makes things easier, when I can explode a view and get a simpler idea of the parts I need to make, their sizes, and hole/alignment locations:









for lack of materials, I may replace the full sized 3/4" thick back piece, with 3 narrower parts, and cover it up with 1/4" ply/masonite to cover the seams. I don't really want to get a full sheet just for that missing part.

I'll let this image settle in a little, and this week hopefully drive this project from start to end during the xmas days off from work.


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## ellen35 (Jan 1, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Simplifying and Completing the Design*
> 
> Finally had a weekend with shop time, but alas - mother nature had other plans.
> 
> ...


Sharon,
What do you mean whining about blowing 8" of snow!! We down here on the Cape are shoveling 20 inches!
Nevertheless, nice sketch-up drawings.
Hope to see the real thing soon.
Happy holidays.
Ellen


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## FenceWorkshop (Nov 5, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Simplifying and Completing the Design*
> 
> Finally had a weekend with shop time, but alas - mother nature had other plans.
> 
> ...


I have been trying to use sketchup. How long did it take you to design that with it? That would take me a month at my sketchup skill level.


----------



## cjg (Oct 16, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Simplifying and Completing the Design*
> 
> Finally had a weekend with shop time, but alas - mother nature had other plans.
> 
> ...


I just updated my router table and went 36" wide and love it. It works great when you are doing larger items.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Simplifying and Completing the Design*
> 
> Finally had a weekend with shop time, but alas - mother nature had other plans.
> 
> ...


Thanks guys,

*ellen* - I am NOT whining… I merely said that instead of WORKING wood- I was PLAYING with snow… 

*Procenseworks* - took me about 4 hours from start to finish on this design. mostly due to design issues, and thinking through it. once you become familiar and comfortable with sketchup it becomes a tool just like anything else - at your disposal. use it as often as you can, and it'll become easier and better. one of my fav. assets. and it's free too.

*cjs* - thanks, the 24" just seemed too narrow - maybe ok for box making, but I want to have something a bit more versatile. still not your 36" wide, but wide enough for what I plan to use it for.


----------



## Brad_Nailor (Jul 26, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Simplifying and Completing the Design*
> 
> Finally had a weekend with shop time, but alas - mother nature had other plans.
> 
> ...


Nice design and SU work dude…..Did you model the Triton or found it somwhere? You doing dados/rabbits or just but joints on the casework?


----------



## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Simplifying and Completing the Design*
> 
> Finally had a weekend with shop time, but alas - mother nature had other plans.
> 
> ...


This looks good Sharon. I wish you had done that little sketchup workshop at the gathering we had. I'm good with computers. Heck, I did it for a living and in education for awhile. It's just in my old age I'm a bit lazy.
I'm glad to see you have some drawers deeper. I've found that some router bits, along with the holders are pretty tall. One of my drawers takes them but I had to make a slanted slot to hold them in if I wanted to close the drawer.

BTW.. I'm in Southern Maine and got 1/2" of snow. NOT FAIR. Storm of the decade and it decides to miss us.


----------



## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Simplifying and Completing the Design*
> 
> Finally had a weekend with shop time, but alas - mother nature had other plans.
> 
> ...


Great looking desgin, I went with Norms and MODed the top a bit. I have been very happy with mine other than my top has sagged a it and I did not cleanly cut in the router plate (therefore the sagging). I am of planning on a rebuild of the top but as for teh case it is very solid.

Looking at your design it will work very well for you. However, you may want to consider making the bottom tray on the right a bit taller. I was very suprised at how quickly I filled up the two bottom big drawers on my cabient. Yes, all router related storage.

Have you given any consideration on bit storage? I will be glad to send you the layout on mine if you would like. My cabinet is holding close to 60 bits and has plenty of room for growth.


----------



## Blake (Oct 17, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Simplifying and Completing the Design*
> 
> Finally had a weekend with shop time, but alas - mother nature had other plans.
> 
> ...


It looks a lot like mine:



And here is the blog with details of the building process:

My New Router Table

There's a lot of info in there as I built it by trial and error. Feel free to ask if you have any questions.


----------



## JimDaddyO (Dec 20, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Simplifying and Completing the Design*
> 
> Finally had a weekend with shop time, but alas - mother nature had other plans.
> 
> ...


How do ou do an explode view? Is that a plug in? Nice bench!


----------



## Loucarb (Dec 19, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Simplifying and Completing the Design*
> 
> Finally had a weekend with shop time, but alas - mother nature had other plans.
> 
> ...


Great job with the drawings. The design looks very functional. Look forward to seeing the finished product.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Simplifying and Completing the Design*
> 
> Finally had a weekend with shop time, but alas - mother nature had other plans.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the comments everyone!

As Dave mentioned- the exploded view was done manually. the way I work with Sketchup is very similar to how I work wood. each piece/part is a component and represents a board/panel/plate as they would appear in real life. I can then route/dado/shape/etc these parts/components and treat them individually as I would in the shop. maybe I'll make a blog on how I designed this router table from scratch if anyone is interested in the design/digital construction process.

back to the exploded view- I simply copy the router table group/component, and literally - explode it into the sub parts, then I move the parts around as I see fit to give me a convenient and useful view of the whole piece as needed.

*David* - I modeled the triton from scratch myself. I only did a 'rough' represantation of it just to get a feel for size, controls (where the switch and plunge control will be in relation to the operator) and opening in the table. maybe I'll post it on 3dwarehouse if I'm brave, and feel like I wanna finesse it a little more.

*Daniel* - I was thinking about that lost opportunity to turn the laptop on and go through some ideas in sketchup - maybe we can setup some dedicated sketchup meetings sometime? the drive might be long… but you never know. or an online one-on-one? if I recall you're on a Mac… so we can set something up either with iChat, remote desktop, or another.

the top drawer is set for layout tools, and is very shallow, the second drawer is set for bits. it will have ~2.5" clearance for bits- but as you brought up the subject - this might not be enough - what is the tallest bit you have?

sIKE - thanks! yes! I'm interested in bit storage, as I mentioned - I may have cut it a bit short on the height for the bit storage drawer… what's yours like?

*Blake* - I saw your blog a while back, and read through the blog of the guy you based your table on. to be honest - I tried to break away from the look of your tables, but I guess you can only change so much when the design is 'right'. how does your DC work? satisfied with it?


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Simplifying and Completing the Design*
> 
> Finally had a weekend with shop time, but alas - mother nature had other plans.
> 
> ...


not at all Dave… thanks for bringing this up.

a little tidbit from this post: I actually made the router table model as a sketchup model. saved the file, and closed it. Then to make the different views, I created a new sketchup file, imported the router table to it, and copied it 2 times - one for the 'regular' view, and the other for the exploded view.

when you import a model into sketchup it brings it up as a component which makes things real easy.

now, the funny thing is- when I was making the exploded view, I was using the component → explode. and was amused by the fact that I'm actually using the (sketchup) "explode" functionality to make the (woodworking) exploded view… 2 different things which intersected quite nicely (pun intended).


----------



## Blake (Oct 17, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Simplifying and Completing the Design*
> 
> Finally had a weekend with shop time, but alas - mother nature had other plans.
> 
> ...


The dust collection works great. You will need some cross-ventillation so it doesn't pile up in certain places. This can be accomplished with an adjustable opening opposite of wherever the suction happens.

I have since added above-table dust collection for certain operations which throw chips OUT (no matter how much suction you have below the bit) similar to this:


----------



## BlankMan (Mar 21, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Simplifying and Completing the Design*
> 
> Finally had a weekend with shop time, but alas - mother nature had other plans.
> 
> ...


That really looks like a well thought design, and lots of storage. I do like that see-through view, really helps to visualize things.

How soon till we see the real one?  Don't rush it just to get it done, take your time, that new router isn't going anywhere.


----------



## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Simplifying and Completing the Design*
> 
> Finally had a weekend with shop time, but alas - mother nature had other plans.
> 
> ...


Hi Sharon;

Great job with sketchup! If I tried that, it would take me much longer to draw it then to build it.

I'm wondering why many of the designs I see for a router table show a one piece fence.

I'm prone to make the fence with adjustable halves, much like a shaper table has. Since some bits actually profile the entire edge of the board, the piece is narrower after the cut has been made, and a one piece fence won't touch the piece after it passes the cutter. Almost like jointer beds, which are independent, so they support the piece before and after the cut.

Just curious about this.

Lee


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Simplifying and Completing the Design*
> 
> Finally had a weekend with shop time, but alas - mother nature had other plans.
> 
> ...


*Dave*: yes, I only imported it once, copied it over, and 'made unique' for the exploded view. I like to have a library of models which are just that - models. thats the reason I created a 2nd file for the views. doing that keeps the 'original' model simple and such that can be easily imported to other projects (should I want to model my shop for reorganizations, or share the model with someone else, etc).

I'm a software engineer, and a true believer in object oriented programming which keeps objects simple, and in their own space so that they can be implemented into many different uses easily.

*Blake*: thanks, glad to hear that!. I will have over the table DC as well - in the model I haven't actually put in any of the DC parts… but they will be there.

*Curt*: I'm actually trying to speed this up - (don't like to use the term 'rush' but pretty much that…) and hopefully be down with this project this (long) weekend weather permitting. thats why I want to be dialed in on the design, and pretty much work from the plans, measure, cut, rinse, and repeat.

*Lee*: the reason for the 1 piece fence in the model is, well, how to put it…... laziness  
I am planning on having a 2 piece fence. the model was mostly done to get the cabinet built. the fence just sits on top, and I'll deal with it later. I really like yours, but I want to incorporate the Incra positioner (currently I have the small 6" model) so I may have to go through several revisions of the fence. BUT - one step at a time.


----------



## cabinetmaster (Aug 28, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Simplifying and Completing the Design*
> 
> Finally had a weekend with shop time, but alas - mother nature had other plans.
> 
> ...


Ok guys. You are really impressing me with the sketchup drawings. I got to get my book out of all the blogs that Dave did, and get started learning SU. Your raouter table is lookn great. Can't wait to see the final results.


----------



## Jon3 (Feb 28, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Simplifying and Completing the Design*
> 
> Finally had a weekend with shop time, but alas - mother nature had other plans.
> 
> ...


I tried using a small piece of phenolic once…. just once.

On the other hand, laminate countertop from the borg is cheap, and the one in waltham will usually mark down the chipped stuff heavily. I picked up a full size sheet of the white for something $10 and it has lasted me a heck of a long time, and I still have plenty left!

I just double up some MDF or ply, border it if I want it to look pretty, and laminate it up.


----------



## dlmckirdy (Oct 27, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Simplifying and Completing the Design*
> 
> Finally had a weekend with shop time, but alas - mother nature had other plans.
> 
> ...


I went to a cabinet shop and asked if I could raid the dumpster for a sink hole offcut - FREE! It was about 20"x30". I used some of it to make the fence, so my table is actually a little narrow for large stuff. I used a 3/16" aluminum plate for the Insert, with leveling screws under all four corners.

I don't like the particle board counter top material on the fence (the remainder of the fence is 3/4" hardwood plywood) because it is too flexible (warps easily). I am going to make a new fence using 4"x4"x1/4" aluminum angle for the fence with aluminum clad MDF (shop made) for the adjustable faces. I use an old carbide tipped blade to cut the aluminum on the TS.


----------



## KathVent (Feb 21, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *Simplifying and Completing the Design*
> 
> Finally had a weekend with shop time, but alas - mother nature had other plans.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the exploded view - it really conveys a sense of how the overall piece will fit together. Do you do that in a special CAD program, or Google Sketchup?


----------



## KathVent (Feb 21, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *Simplifying and Completing the Design*
> 
> Finally had a weekend with shop time, but alas - mother nature had other plans.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the exploded view - it really conveys a sense of how the overall piece will fit together. Do you do that in a special CAD program, or Google Sketchup?


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Simplifying and Completing the Design*
> 
> Finally had a weekend with shop time, but alas - mother nature had other plans.
> 
> ...


Thanks Kath, for woodworking projects I use Google's SketchUp. it's one of the better CAD programs for woodworking from my experience and I've worked with most of them


----------



## joeCommercial (May 3, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *Simplifying and Completing the Design*
> 
> Finally had a weekend with shop time, but alas - mother nature had other plans.
> 
> ...


Great sketches! Definitely easier to comprehend.


----------



## webbizideas (Jun 8, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *Simplifying and Completing the Design*
> 
> Finally had a weekend with shop time, but alas - mother nature had other plans.
> 
> ...


I am a big fan of Sketch Up as well as I feel it is a much better (and intuitive I must add) program to use for basic 3D drawings. Unless you are a structural engineer where precision is instrumental in design, you are still able to do most of anything that Auto Cad does but minus the scaled details.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Simplifying and Completing the Design*
> 
> Finally had a weekend with shop time, but alas - mother nature had other plans.
> 
> ...


webbizideas - I agree, and because of that I find SketchUp to be a priceless tool for woodworking as you can get more than what you need - FAST and much easier than with other programs (in most cases)


----------



## stoett22 (Aug 3, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *Simplifying and Completing the Design*
> 
> Finally had a weekend with shop time, but alas - mother nature had other plans.
> 
> ...


Wow, I really admire your determination and skills. I tried building some doors and screens for my own house and failed terribly, yet you managed to build such a complicated thing yourself! 
You're really great with building things, really.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*cabinet frame started*

Started last night, I remembered that I forgot (go figure) the glue in the garage last time I used it (in the summer) so I went to bring it into the house so that it can defrost overnight as I planned on using it today.

I got out of the house today and it felt so nice… kinda warm… 32 degrees (F, 0 degree C) didn't even need gloves. amazing what a couple of weeks in 12F can do to you.

I was planning to have most of the long weekend dedicated for this project, but as things seem, this may not be the case anymore. I was contemplating whether to even start this, as I don't want to have to leave it half made, but ended up starting it after all.

I made another view in Sketchup of the carcass parts, printed it out, and took it with me so that I can have a reference to work against, and a paper to note things on:










As it happen, I already altered the height of the parts by 3/8" making it slightly lower than originally planned.

my plywood source is leftovers from past projects, so I'm half improvising. the project I got the plywood from is an old project that was done with a circular saw- it's quite amazing to see now how unstraight my cut lines used to be… made it quite hard to rip and cut the pieces on the TS this time around. but close enough is good enough for this project. I also don't have a large enough piece for the back, and will have to make the back from 2 pieces one on top of the other:










all in all, it's about half of what I expected to accomplish today, but it's better than nothing.

I did get to use the triton router freehand, and although it has some things that could use refinement, it does perform very well, and since it'll be perm. in the table, I think I'll be ok.

you can also see the phenolic top in it's planned position (albeit lower than it supposed to be)

Peace.


----------



## fge (Sep 8, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *cabinet frame started*
> 
> Started last night, I remembered that I forgot (go figure) the glue in the garage last time I used it (in the summer) so I went to bring it into the house so that it can defrost overnight as I planned on using it today.
> 
> ...


Looks good and I am sure it will turn out great. Looks like you have done due diligence in your planning. I sort of just threw our router table together on the 'fly'.

I like the part about getting 1/2 done what you wanted to. That is our daily routine. I always end up taking much more time then anticipated. If I say 1 day, then it is probably going to take me 2 days.

Jerry


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *cabinet frame started*
> 
> Started last night, I remembered that I forgot (go figure) the glue in the garage last time I used it (in the summer) so I went to bring it into the house so that it can defrost overnight as I planned on using it today.
> 
> ...


Good start ,happy holidays Sharon


----------



## bigike (May 25, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *cabinet frame started*
> 
> Started last night, I remembered that I forgot (go figure) the glue in the garage last time I used it (in the summer) so I went to bring it into the house so that it can defrost overnight as I planned on using it today.
> 
> ...


sweet, can't wait till it's done!


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

PurpLev said:


> *cabinet frame started*
> 
> Started last night, I remembered that I forgot (go figure) the glue in the garage last time I used it (in the summer) so I went to bring it into the house so that it can defrost overnight as I planned on using it today.
> 
> ...


Looking good.


----------



## 280305 (Sep 28, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *cabinet frame started*
> 
> Started last night, I remembered that I forgot (go figure) the glue in the garage last time I used it (in the summer) so I went to bring it into the house so that it can defrost overnight as I planned on using it today.
> 
> ...


Thanks for sharing your progress so far.

And I know what you mean about the weather today - comfort sure is a relative thing.


----------



## Joemurph (Dec 10, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *cabinet frame started*
> 
> Started last night, I remembered that I forgot (go figure) the glue in the garage last time I used it (in the summer) so I went to bring it into the house so that it can defrost overnight as I planned on using it today.
> 
> ...


I'm in Eastern Mass and your right..it felt like a heat wave today.

Looking good!!!


----------



## 559dustdesigns (Sep 23, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *cabinet frame started*
> 
> Started last night, I remembered that I forgot (go figure) the glue in the garage last time I used it (in the summer) so I went to bring it into the house so that it can defrost overnight as I planned on using it today.
> 
> ...


Looks like a good start, thanks for sharing the great plans and pictures.


----------



## PG_Zac (Feb 14, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *cabinet frame started*
> 
> Started last night, I remembered that I forgot (go figure) the glue in the garage last time I used it (in the summer) so I went to bring it into the house so that it can defrost overnight as I planned on using it today.
> 
> ...


Looking forward to the progress and finished unit


----------



## gfixler (Feb 21, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *cabinet frame started*
> 
> Started last night, I remembered that I forgot (go figure) the glue in the garage last time I used it (in the summer) so I went to bring it into the house so that it can defrost overnight as I planned on using it today.
> 
> ...


Better than nothing indeed. It looks good so far. My new way of looking at woodworking (and everything) this year is to simply do as much as I can in the time I have. Progress is always better than no progress. I fight an immature urge to not do anything if I can't do everything in one go. Keep up the good work!


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *cabinet frame started*
> 
> Started last night, I remembered that I forgot (go figure) the glue in the garage last time I used it (in the summer) so I went to bring it into the house so that it can defrost overnight as I planned on using it today.
> 
> ...


Nice progress.


----------



## Cory (Jan 14, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *cabinet frame started*
> 
> Started last night, I remembered that I forgot (go figure) the glue in the garage last time I used it (in the summer) so I went to bring it into the house so that it can defrost overnight as I planned on using it today.
> 
> ...


This is my favorite stage of a project…..the design is coming together and individual pieces are starting to really look like something. Thanks for documenting it. Looking forward to the next installment!


----------



## cabinetmaster (Aug 28, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *cabinet frame started*
> 
> Started last night, I remembered that I forgot (go figure) the glue in the garage last time I used it (in the summer) so I went to bring it into the house so that it can defrost overnight as I planned on using it today.
> 
> ...


Very nice start. Looks like you are taking your time to get it right. Good luck.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *cabinet frame started*
> 
> Started last night, I remembered that I forgot (go figure) the glue in the garage last time I used it (in the summer) so I went to bring it into the house so that it can defrost overnight as I planned on using it today.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the comments,

*Gary*- just like you, I mostly feel that if I can't have it done in one go - I might as wall not have it at all. sometimes it's reasonable, sometimes - not so much.

*Cory* - I like to see design take physical shape, but I hate doing plywood carcass construction. don't really have the means to handle it, and plain just don't like it… lol. but the good thing is, it only gets better from here.


----------



## fge (Sep 8, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *cabinet frame started*
> 
> Started last night, I remembered that I forgot (go figure) the glue in the garage last time I used it (in the summer) so I went to bring it into the house so that it can defrost overnight as I planned on using it today.
> 
> ...


Which router did you end up choosing and have you purchased it yet?


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *cabinet frame started*
> 
> Started last night, I remembered that I forgot (go figure) the glue in the garage last time I used it (in the summer) so I went to bring it into the house so that it can defrost overnight as I planned on using it today.
> 
> ...


Jerry, I went with the Triton - posted it here for what I was looking for, it gave me more while paying less. so far I'm happy with it.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*Half Throttle - Cabinet is Framed!*

I picked up today where I left yesterday. today however, I had a bit more time to work on this. I printed the face frame design/layout from Sketchup, and out to the freezer we go:










I added the 2nd piece that makes up the back (had to use 2 pieces of plywood as I don't have 1 large enough part for the back), and then I noticed that my plywood carcass is a bit out of wack- the back aligns with the left side, but the right side is a bit lower, ah crap, I guess I'll have to shimmy shim the thing after all. I know where I messed up - I started putting the parts together in the wrong order, starting with the bottom and back, then had to align the left and right to 2 parts each. I should have started with the left-back-right, and align the bottom to all 3 parts which would then be align a the top… oh well, too late for me now.

Another unfortunate thing happened today. I am using pocket holes (and glue) for the construction of the carcass and face frame. somewhere towards the end of the carcass build my drill-bit-stop was pushed up (I guess it lost it's grip) and the last part in the carcass was drilled too deep!!!!! which means, that the pocket screws once driven all the way in, end up being driven through the 2nd part, and are left with their tip exposed. I only discovered it later on after I placed the cabinet on my table saw, and felt it 'grip' the top of my TS - made some nasty scratches in the granite  it's only visual, and minor, and easily fixed with epoxy, but I would have had it better if it didn't happen at all. just something to keep an eye on when doing pocket holes… uuuuggggghhhhh. I wonder what would have happened with Cast Iron - would it scratch as well?

so, aside from the scratches on the granite, and the low right side which will need to be trimmed and shimmed to match the rest of the cabinet to make it steady, and have a good support for the top, It ended up pretty nice. this sucker is getting heavy, and from now on (after I put the casters on) will stay on the ground:










In terms of progress, I'm at the end of day 2 and have accomplished what I was planning to accomplish at the end of day 1. could say that I'm 1 day behind… or more mathematically correct - that I'm working in half-throttle, and at 1/2 the production rate. as it seems, I'll at least have the cabinet made by the end of the weekend, so it can stand on it's own and not take benchtop space. drawers, and the rest, can be taken on one at a time later on.

Peace.


----------



## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Half Throttle - Cabinet is Framed!*
> 
> I picked up today where I left yesterday. today however, I had a bit more time to work on this. I printed the face frame design/layout from Sketchup, and out to the freezer we go:
> 
> ...


Sharon, this is looking pretty good. Bummer about the scratches but they really are only cosmetic.

The same thing would have happened in a cast iron top. I have put a few scratches in my cast iron top from my miter sled. I used carriage bolts to mount the hold downs and apparently there is enough friction from the head of the carriage bolt to scratch the cast iron unless they are tightened down. So I hesitate to think what the end of a screw would do.


----------



## woodworm (Jul 27, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Half Throttle - Cabinet is Framed!*
> 
> I picked up today where I left yesterday. today however, I had a bit more time to work on this. I printed the face frame design/layout from Sketchup, and out to the freezer we go:
> 
> ...


Very nicely done! Great face-frame construction. 
The colour of the face frame (hardwood) and the plywood ilook almost the same. Are both of the same wood species?


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Half Throttle - Cabinet is Framed!*
> 
> I picked up today where I left yesterday. today however, I had a bit more time to work on this. I printed the face frame design/layout from Sketchup, and out to the freezer we go:
> 
> ...


Good progress it's going to be very good when your done


----------



## gfixler (Feb 21, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Half Throttle - Cabinet is Framed!*
> 
> I picked up today where I left yesterday. today however, I had a bit more time to work on this. I printed the face frame design/layout from Sketchup, and out to the freezer we go:
> 
> ...


That's definitely starting to look like a solid, clean cabinet. I can confirm with Scott that screws scratch cast iron. I've actually done it with exactly the same, painful, annoying problem you've had, except mine was my fault. I hadn't set the stop since the last time I used it on thinner stock, so I was drilling way too deep, and my table saw was my assembly table. Sigh… At least it kind of buffed out after a few of my occasional Scotch Brite scrubbing to remove rust and restore the slippery sheen.

Anyway, glad to see the continued progress. Onward!


----------



## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Half Throttle - Cabinet is Framed!*
> 
> I picked up today where I left yesterday. today however, I had a bit more time to work on this. I printed the face frame design/layout from Sketchup, and out to the freezer we go:
> 
> ...


This will look great in your living room… lol'

Really a very nice piece of furniture… shop furniture that is..


----------



## ellen35 (Jan 1, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Half Throttle - Cabinet is Framed!*
> 
> I picked up today where I left yesterday. today however, I had a bit more time to work on this. I printed the face frame design/layout from Sketchup, and out to the freezer we go:
> 
> ...


Making great progress, I see.
It really does look like furniture!
Shop furniture!!!
Ellen


----------



## cabinetmaster (Aug 28, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Half Throttle - Cabinet is Framed!*
> 
> I picked up today where I left yesterday. today however, I had a bit more time to work on this. I printed the face frame design/layout from Sketchup, and out to the freezer we go:
> 
> ...


GOING TO LOOK TOO NICE TO BE IN THE SHOP…..................LOL


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

PurpLev said:


> *Half Throttle - Cabinet is Framed!*
> 
> I picked up today where I left yesterday. today however, I had a bit more time to work on this. I printed the face frame design/layout from Sketchup, and out to the freezer we go:
> 
> ...


That a great looking cabinet. Your router will look mighty proud burried with the depths. And router bits close by and wrenches close by

What a cool idea.


----------



## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Half Throttle - Cabinet is Framed!*
> 
> I picked up today where I left yesterday. today however, I had a bit more time to work on this. I printed the face frame design/layout from Sketchup, and out to the freezer we go:
> 
> ...


Hi Sharon;

It's looking good.

Too bad about the saw table. Cast iron would get scratched too.

I know I'm in the minority here, but I still won't use pocket screws. I just can't get used to that hole! Even plugged, they still bother me.

Could be I need some sort of professional help.

Lee


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Half Throttle - Cabinet is Framed!*
> 
> I picked up today where I left yesterday. today however, I had a bit more time to work on this. I printed the face frame design/layout from Sketchup, and out to the freezer we go:
> 
> ...


Thanks everyone for the kind words… as for pocket screws - they are quick and straight forward, but I would not use them for fine furniture. maybe for shop cabinets, and build ins.


----------



## Dusty56 (Apr 20, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Half Throttle - Cabinet is Framed!*
> 
> I picked up today where I left yesterday. today however, I had a bit more time to work on this. I printed the face frame design/layout from Sketchup, and out to the freezer we go:
> 
> ...


I know the feeling of screw tips scarring my cast iron top all too well…...If I had a Granite top , I think I would be truly upset though. Mine are just deep enough to catch your fingernail and be an eyesore , but also serve as a constant reminder not to do it again : ) I might try your epoxy tip to fill the voids…thank you

Your cabinet frame is looking great so far , Sharon ! Happy Holidays to you and your family : )
Len


----------



## EEngineer (Jul 4, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Half Throttle - Cabinet is Framed!*
> 
> I picked up today where I left yesterday. today however, I had a bit more time to work on this. I printed the face frame design/layout from Sketchup, and out to the freezer we go:
> 
> ...


Yah, that perfectly flat surface is just too tempting to use as an assembly/work table!

My work gets many shipments in cheap boxes made from cheap 1/4" ply. I salvaged quite a bit of it and make covers for the saw table. I just throw them away when they get too much glue, scratches, whatever. If I am not using the table saw, the top is covered (usually - one time when I didn't, a visiting friend set a beer on the table and I now have a rust ring to polish out).


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Half Throttle - Cabinet is Framed!*
> 
> I picked up today where I left yesterday. today however, I had a bit more time to work on this. I printed the face frame design/layout from Sketchup, and out to the freezer we go:
> 
> ...


EEngineer - I have plenty of masonite boards (1/8") which I constantly use to cover the table saw when I'm doing glueups… since I was done with the glue up - I took it off… but as said - a lesson to be learnt. the scratches are just an eyesore, I can't even catch my fingernail in it though, I may just leave them as a reminder. at least I dont have to worry about beer though


----------



## Paddyhere (Feb 9, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *Half Throttle - Cabinet is Framed!*
> 
> I picked up today where I left yesterday. today however, I had a bit more time to work on this. I printed the face frame design/layout from Sketchup, and out to the freezer we go:
> 
> ...


Your project progress looks fantastic. The timber, in photo at least, appears strong and your expertise evident.


----------



## joeCommercial (May 3, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *Half Throttle - Cabinet is Framed!*
> 
> I picked up today where I left yesterday. today however, I had a bit more time to work on this. I printed the face frame design/layout from Sketchup, and out to the freezer we go:
> 
> ...


A solid looking cabinet indeed. Nicely done!


----------



## webbizideas (Jun 8, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *Half Throttle - Cabinet is Framed!*
> 
> I picked up today where I left yesterday. today however, I had a bit more time to work on this. I printed the face frame design/layout from Sketchup, and out to the freezer we go:
> 
> ...


Way to go PurpLev, this is actually a whole lot more spacious than what your drawings initially suggests.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*Cast(ers) Away*

Not much done today, had time to install the casters. had to go the lowes for some lag bolts (5/16) as the casters did not come with it.

I found the casters on eBay for a fantastic price. it's sold by SES Casters which are here in Massachusetts. total price was ~26 including shipping. they may not be red and shiny - but they are soft, heavy duty, and work fantastic! I highly recommend this seller by any means.

I installed 2 swivel casters on the front of the table, and 2 non swivel casters in the back. when the front casters are locked, there are no wheels that can slide/move in the direction of the feed:










I installed 2 lag bolts into the end of the plywood sides, and 2 bolts with nuts that go through the bottom piece. I'm not too sure about the bolts in the ply-edge as the edge usually doesn't have much holding power (but I have been pleasantly surprised in the past from screws into ply-edge), but being a physics major - having the plywood sides (which hold the rails and drawers, and all their weight) rest on the casters will create less stress on the bottom piece, and the pocket screws that hold it to the sides. besides, there's not much pressure on these lag bolts. worst case, I can always remount the casters.

so here it is, in it's planned location that will/might double work as an outfeed table (just have to figure out how to handle the DC hose in the back of the saw):










the top lays on the cabinet and is very very stable (surprisingly). there is a gap between the top and the right side as it was installed too low, but I can shim that, or fill it with something. I think I'll mount the top to the cabinet with triangle blocks in each corner (and 2 in the center) to secure it from moving about.

not much done today for lack of time, and the need to drive around for bolts. but at least it took the cabinet off the tablesaw/workbench, which are now back to being functional.

Next I would like to work on the top, and mount the router in it somehow.

Peace.


----------



## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Cast(ers) Away*
> 
> Not much done today, had time to install the casters. had to go the lowes for some lag bolts (5/16) as the casters did not come with it.
> 
> ...


One step closer to being able to use it… well done so far… looking very good my friend… I want to see this finished almost as much as I am sure you do…..
Cheers
Larry


----------



## PG_Zac (Feb 14, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Cast(ers) Away*
> 
> Not much done today, had time to install the casters. had to go the lowes for some lag bolts (5/16) as the casters did not come with it.
> 
> ...


It's Looking better each day.

I'm eagerly awaiting the final installment, and the first project.


----------



## gfixler (Feb 21, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Cast(ers) Away*
> 
> Not much done today, had time to install the casters. had to go the lowes for some lag bolts (5/16) as the casters did not come with it.
> 
> ...


Nice! Do you have a router lift, or will you be adjusting height through the router itself?


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Cast(ers) Away*
> 
> Not much done today, had time to install the casters. had to go the lowes for some lag bolts (5/16) as the casters did not come with it.
> 
> ...


Thanks guys,

*Gary* - I bought the Triton 3 1/4 HP router which has a build in lift, and comes with an over the table crank handle. it was either that (a 3 1/4hp motor compared to my 2 1/4 bosch) for $270, or a router lift for my bosch at $300. I went with the larger motor option - which also leaves my bosch free for freehand work.


----------



## gfixler (Feb 21, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Cast(ers) Away*
> 
> Not much done today, had time to install the casters. had to go the lowes for some lag bolts (5/16) as the casters did not come with it.
> 
> ...


Sounds like the right choice to me.


----------



## blackcherry (Dec 7, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Cast(ers) Away*
> 
> Not much done today, had time to install the casters. had to go the lowes for some lag bolts (5/16) as the casters did not come with it.
> 
> ...


Wow, your moving right along on this project. A router table come in very handy in any shop which I know you'll enjoy having. Nice choice on your router selection plenty of power and accessories as well. It won't take long to fill up all the drawers on your new station, the extra weight come in handy when pushing large stock against the fence. Nice work my friend and may you have a great New Year as well. Blkcherry


----------



## BlankMan (Mar 21, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Cast(ers) Away*
> 
> Not much done today, had time to install the casters. had to go the lowes for some lag bolts (5/16) as the casters did not come with it.
> 
> ...


Sharon, it's coming along nicely, looking real good, you'll be routing in no time.


----------



## Timbo (Aug 21, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Cast(ers) Away*
> 
> Not much done today, had time to install the casters. had to go the lowes for some lag bolts (5/16) as the casters did not come with it.
> 
> ...


Coming along very nicely Sharon, I have enjoyed watching the progress. All of the stress on the casters is downward force except when moving and you wont be moving it much so they should be just fine, and thanks for the tip on the company, added them to my favorite sellers list. Are you going to mount the router directly to the top or use a router plate? On the DC from the table saw, when you mount the top can you let it hang over the right side a little to give some more room?


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Cast(ers) Away*
> 
> Not much done today, had time to install the casters. had to go the lowes for some lag bolts (5/16) as the casters did not come with it.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the comments.

Tim- I think I'm going to start by mounting the router directly to the top (the triton router has 2 finger screws to mount it to plates/guides/etc) which means the least amount of routing into the phenolic material, and the smallest affected area. if that fails - I can always open up a through hole to take a plate.

as for the top and extra room for the DC pipe - the top and cabinet are designed to have a 2" overhang on all sides to clamp things (fence,jigs,etc) around if needed. the router table is also lower than the TS (to accommodate the TS miter slots) so I will need to use some auxiliary top on top (ha) of the router table - which I can offset.


----------



## bigike (May 25, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Cast(ers) Away*
> 
> Not much done today, had time to install the casters. had to go the lowes for some lag bolts (5/16) as the casters did not come with it.
> 
> ...


r u gonna put an insert plate or just mt the router to the top itself? if your not gonna put no plate u don't have to worry about leveling it but if u have a lift type plate i would go through the hasle of leveling it. either way it's something cuz if u don't put a plate and just mt the router u still have to make cutouts of different sizes for the different size bits. main question is plate or no plate?


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Cast(ers) Away*
> 
> Not much done today, had time to install the casters. had to go the lowes for some lag bolts (5/16) as the casters did not come with it.
> 
> ...


Ike- see my previous comment. although I'm considering both options, I think I'll start by mounting the router directly to the top which means less work for me NOW. I will route a rabbet on the top side of the hole to take inserts for the different sized bits. if I find that this doesn't work out too well, I'll cut out an opening for a plate. at the moment,I'm trying to keep work to a minimum for lack of time.


----------



## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Cast(ers) Away*
> 
> Not much done today, had time to install the casters. had to go the lowes for some lag bolts (5/16) as the casters did not come with it.
> 
> ...


Sounds like you made great progress so far. How heavy will the table be when it is complete? I'd be interested to hear how these work with weight on them.

You might remember my blog for lumber and sheet goods storage:
http://lumberjocks.com/HokieMojo/blog/10536

I think I'm a bit over the 300# per wheel capacity of the woodcraft casters I bought. If these work well under some weight, I may consider upgrading to the 8" wheels that your supplier carries, even without the locking capacity. I don't think the locking capacity matters much on a project as heavy as mine that sits on a level floor and isn't meant to support running power tools. Keep up the awesome work. I wish I could contribute mroe to your task but I've never built (or even used) a real router table. good luck!


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Cast(ers) Away*
> 
> Not much done today, had time to install the casters. had to go the lowes for some lag bolts (5/16) as the casters did not come with it.
> 
> ...


Hokie- so far I only have the cabinet and top resting on the casters, and they seem to hold up real well. then again - I still need to add the weight of the router, drawers, 2nd router, and all the stuff that will be in the drawers… I'll keep you posted when I get to that stage. so far I'm not seeing any issues though.


----------



## Paddyhere (Feb 9, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *Cast(ers) Away*
> 
> Not much done today, had time to install the casters. had to go the lowes for some lag bolts (5/16) as the casters did not come with it.
> 
> ...


It seemed highly functional as it is so plate or no plate is not exactly a priority for now. Nice work I have to say.


----------



## paulsalisbury (Apr 1, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *Cast(ers) Away*
> 
> Not much done today, had time to install the casters. had to go the lowes for some lag bolts (5/16) as the casters did not come with it.
> 
> ...


Another fabulous article by this favorite website. I am keen to build a home conservatory. Any advice would be welcomed.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Cast(ers) Away*
> 
> Not much done today, had time to install the casters. had to go the lowes for some lag bolts (5/16) as the casters did not come with it.
> 
> ...


Paul, I am not sure what conservatory you are trying to build, but I am sure it's more than doable. this thread is about the Router Table that I built a while ago, you may have better luck getting answers to your questions RE the conservatory by starting a new forum/blog about it.


----------



## webbizideas (Jun 8, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *Cast(ers) Away*
> 
> Not much done today, had time to install the casters. had to go the lowes for some lag bolts (5/16) as the casters did not come with it.
> 
> ...


Curious as to why you didn't choose to get all 4 casters with locks? I'm sure 2 are sufficient, but wouldn't 4 be safer?


----------



## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *Cast(ers) Away*
> 
> Not much done today, had time to install the casters. had to go the lowes for some lag bolts (5/16) as the casters did not come with it.
> 
> ...


Interesting how we view things differently, but no right or wrong. I chose to put non-swivel casters on my RT that allow front to back ONLY and NO side-to-side EVER (for obvious reasons).


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Cast(ers) Away*
> 
> Not much done today, had time to install the casters. had to go the lowes for some lag bolts (5/16) as the casters did not come with it.
> 
> ...


*Jim* - I didn't choose 4 wheels because it would be practically impossible to position all 4 wheels in order to lock them (2 will always be under the table with the locking mechanism unreachable - try it) the only way to manage that would be to have a table with 4 long legs that allow access to the wheels in their entire 360 positioning.

*David*, I agree, there is no right-or-wrong in many cases (but in many there IS). I have a small shop, and the reason for the casters is so that I can move the RT around easily, without swiveling casters it would be impossible for me to move the RT around my space which would render the caster useless. curios - if you have 4 non swivel casters on your RT - how do you turn it?


----------



## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *Cast(ers) Away*
> 
> Not much done today, had time to install the casters. had to go the lowes for some lag bolts (5/16) as the casters did not come with it.
> 
> ...


@PurpLev, It has its place. I don't move it. The dust port is even on the side. If I drop something behind it or NEED to move it to clean I just roll forward, then back. If I had to move it from place to place I would do exactly what you have done.

You're going to love that table and all that storage. Lookin' good !


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Cast(ers) Away*
> 
> Not much done today, had time to install the casters. had to go the lowes for some lag bolts (5/16) as the casters did not come with it.
> 
> ...


Ah! thanks for the clarification. that makes more sense now. 

And yes, the router table works pretty well. unfortunately like many other shop items, once it's functional I tend to pay less attention to it and it is usually left unfinished until I find the time to finish up the remaining non-functional related steps… oh well.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Cast(ers) Away*
> 
> Not much done today, had time to install the casters. had to go the lowes for some lag bolts (5/16) as the casters did not come with it.
> 
> ...


yes, these are dual locks, they lock the wheel from traveling as well as keeping it from swiveling- very good casters. I actually just got the 5" version for my machining tool cart (sitting in their box for the past couple of weeks as I'm no where close to being in the installing he caters step, but they are good casters)


----------



## conservatories (Oct 14, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *Cast(ers) Away*
> 
> Not much done today, had time to install the casters. had to go the lowes for some lag bolts (5/16) as the casters did not come with it.
> 
> ...


casters casters, it does make your life easier!


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*Drawers Under the Weather*

and I mean literally - we've had a snow storm here, and the garage is covered with more than a foot of snow.

It was blazing outside and the high winds were blowing snow all over the place. my garage is unheated, but neither of those stopped me from making the most I could with an open window of time I got this weekend.

I caved in, and ordered an Incra router plate for the top when they just posted the phenolic version on sale for $35 (they had a 10% off last week). I really like the magnalock concept, but wasn't about to spend $90 on a plate (their aluminum plate is priced that way)... anyways to make story short. I can't continue with work on the top as I'm waiting for the plate to arrive so that I can make a template, and install it in the top.

Instead, I undid the face frame, and replaced the shelf under the router which was originally a masonite sheet with a full 3/4" plywood for some added ridgidity, and also to seal the router enclosure better for DC purposes. then I glued and screwed the face frame back on. and added triangular bracket on all the corners which will secure the top in place later on.

Originally I was planning to use the router table to make the drawers with dovetail joinery and test my incra-jig while at it. but since I had this time window today, and no router table, and no top to work on (waiting for plate) I decided to forgo the dovetailed drawers idea, and make use of the 1/2" plywood scraps I have, which also helps clear some more space. I'll use dovetails for something more meaningful in the future 

I installed all the slides, and then started making the drawers. so far I only have 2 as these are all different heights so I'm limited with the amount of automation I can use.

I used is simple lock-rabbet joinery for the drawers, and went REAL simple on it since it'll have drawer fronts to cover it all up. I just wanted something fast that will hold the drawers well:










then I covered both TS and router cabinet with masonite sheets, and it was glueup:










At these temperatures, glueup takes a bit longer.. but then again - I'm not sure when I'll get another time window to continue this - I'm pretty sure it'll be glued up by then 

I'll take the clamps off tomorrow though.
Peace


----------



## Timbo (Aug 21, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawers Under the Weather*
> 
> and I mean literally - we've had a snow storm here, and the garage is covered with more than a foot of snow.
> 
> ...


Take the shop time when you can get it. Looking good. I feel for you with the cold shop, our 2+ feet of snow from Dec. 19 has ceased melting as it was 11 whole degrees this morning, never made above freezing today.


----------



## blackcherry (Dec 7, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawers Under the Weather*
> 
> and I mean literally - we've had a snow storm here, and the garage is covered with more than a foot of snow.
> 
> ...


Nice to hear you when with the plate…it more work but well worth it in the long run..Blkcherry


----------



## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawers Under the Weather*
> 
> and I mean literally - we've had a snow storm here, and the garage is covered with more than a foot of snow.
> 
> ...


Sharon,

I haven't been able to comment on the entire blog, but your progress is great and you will be happy with it when you are done. Make sure that you keep your top nice and flat!


----------



## jlsmith5963 (Mar 26, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawers Under the Weather*
> 
> and I mean literally - we've had a snow storm here, and the garage is covered with more than a foot of snow.
> 
> ...


Although its a little late to be saying anything the issue of gluing in the cold was in the most recent issue of FW:

Titebond III: "47°" Titebond II: 55º F, and Titebond Original, Carpenters glue, liquid hide glue, and polyurethane must be above 50º. Below this, the glue dries white and powdery instead of transparent, and has virtually no bond strength.

Cyanoacrylate ("Super Glue") also is not suitable for applications in the 40° to 45º range. Some epoxies work, but take much longer than normal to cure. Gorilla Glue polyurethane can handle 40°, but the cure time also is slower.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawers Under the Weather*
> 
> and I mean literally - we've had a snow storm here, and the garage is covered with more than a foot of snow.
> 
> ...


hmm… I guess It'll have to be reglued then. I'll check for strength when I take off the clamps, if I can open it by sheer force - I'll wait for a warmer day. thanks for the info. I'll check out the article.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawers Under the Weather*
> 
> and I mean literally - we've had a snow storm here, and the garage is covered with more than a foot of snow.
> 
> ...


Thanks jlsmith!
went and checked FW glue at low temp article and some other glue articles they have - thanks for the info, I never would have thought about this. gonna keep this in mind for future reference - maybe have a heated area for glueups, or take glueups into the house/basement


----------



## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawers Under the Weather*
> 
> and I mean literally - we've had a snow storm here, and the garage is covered with more than a foot of snow.
> 
> ...


I too cant wait to see this completed.. I am in the market for a new router table set up and am leaning to the Incra fence system and maybe a router lift..


----------



## jerusalemcarpentress (Feb 8, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawers Under the Weather*
> 
> and I mean literally - we've had a snow storm here, and the garage is covered with more than a foot of snow.
> 
> ...


looks great so far. can't wait to see the finished table.


----------



## ellen35 (Jan 1, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawers Under the Weather*
> 
> and I mean literally - we've had a snow storm here, and the garage is covered with more than a foot of snow.
> 
> ...


Lookin' good! Looking forward to the finished table… if it is anything like your workbench, it will
be heavy!
We didn't get quite as much snow as you, but Cape Cod sure is cold!


----------



## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawers Under the Weather*
> 
> and I mean literally - we've had a snow storm here, and the garage is covered with more than a foot of snow.
> 
> ...


Been offline for a couple of days and saw your glue postings. I did the cold glue up one day. Decided not to heat up the shop just for a few glue joints. They seemed to be ok but came apart later. Titebond, if does right never comes apart in my experience so I attribute it to the glue.

Glue tip: I buy titebond in gallon jugs. It's just so much cheaper that way but once you make that airspace at the top by pouring some off into a smaller bottle to use it slowly gets thicker and thicker. After awhile what's left in the gallon jug is unusable. My solution? Once I pour a pint off to use from the jug I use a funnel and pour the rest into 8 or 12 ounce coke bottles. I fill them right to the top and tighten the cap. No air, no thickening. Of course I keep my glue in the house where it won't freeze.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawers Under the Weather*
> 
> and I mean literally - we've had a snow storm here, and the garage is covered with more than a foot of snow.
> 
> ...


thanks everyone - I too can't wait to see the finished table 

Daniel - I just posted about it yesterday on the recycling thread - I recycle boars-head mustard bottles from the office's cafeteria as glue bottles. why boars-head ? first - cause I like their products  but to the point - they have a small bottle with a large opening cap that is easy to feel. I pick them up whenever the cafeteria has an empty one, and reuse them when empty after cleaning them with some soap and water. I recycle them with the rest of the plastics when they are too beat up (hasn't happen yet).

all the glues go back into the heated house with me everytime I use them in the shop.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawers Under the Weather*
> 
> and I mean literally - we've had a snow storm here, and the garage is covered with more than a foot of snow.
> 
> ...


checked the drawers yesterday after work, and they are rock solid. I put some serious sheer force trying to open them up and break the glue but it didn't budge. one less thing to worry about.


----------



## jlsmith5963 (Mar 26, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawers Under the Weather*
> 
> and I mean literally - we've had a snow storm here, and the garage is covered with more than a foot of snow.
> 
> ...


Good to hear the glue didn't fail.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*Insert an Insert an Insert an Insert an....*

OK. I caved in and bought an Incra Insert for the router table after they posted it back in stock. It's the 3/8" phenolic plate that is their 'old' design. the opening for the router is 3 3/8" as opposed to the new Aluminum plate which are 3 5/8". also it's not as mechanical capable as the aluminum plates, but for $35 it's within my budget. and still a very good plate. what I really like about the Incras is their MagnaLock plate inserts which snaps into place with magnets and is toolless - no need for a screwdriver, or a handle to lock/unlock the inserts in place.

I definitely didn't want to mess up the phenolic top (of the table) so I decided to make a test run on a board of MDF and if I get good results - to use that MDF as a template and follow that opening over the phenolic top. Actually, it's not that I didn't want to mess up the phenolic (cause I slightly did) - what I didn't want is to mess up the phenolic top beyond salvation… thats what I meant.

And so, I began by placing the phenolic plate over a board of 3/4" MDF. I then ripped 4" stips of 3/4" plywood from the same board so that I'll have even thickness for my "pre" template. I pre drilled the strips and coutersunk those holes to make sure the screws are below surface and won't interfere with my router:










I cross cut those stips at 5 degrees to make sure I get a nice tight fit around the router plate (not trying to make a perfect 90 degree between the strips - just making sure they are all snug against the plate):










For the next step I was a bit stumbled for a while, and researched many places. in order to make the corners nice and round and match the router plate, some places recommend using a 1-1/2" drill bit (shopnotes) while others recommend using a 3/4" router template bit (benchdog). I never installed a router plate before, so I had no idea what would work the best so I bought a 3/4" router bit (a good bit to have in the arsenal regardless of this project) and had my 1-1/2" holesaw at hand. trying to compare between the 2 and the radius of the router plate, It looked like the router bit radius was too small, while the holesaw was just perfect. so, I drilled the 4 corners with the holesaw. then, using the 3/4" template bit, I followed the plywood makeshift template to cut through the MDF board.

my work was a bit sloppy, and I lost alignment of the router a couple of times which messed up the MDF AND the plywood strips in a few places. so I left things as is. and started it all over again with new material. If I'm going to screw anything up - I don't want it to be the template itself 

round to was much better. this time around I also screwed a block in the middle so that the router will have support on both sides of it's base. this was great. but on one corner I pulled to hard trying to run through it, and the router jumped and notched the template - not too bad. not bad enough that I wanted to start over again (and I didn't have any more materials either).

after completing the cutout, I fit the template in - it was SNUG. It required some rasping of the corners, and straight lines in order to fit the insert. and it's TIGHT. maybe too tight… but I can always sand/shape it open wider if I feel it's a problem. Going the other way around would be impossible (at least as far as I've been told).

I then took the template, and placed it over the original board of MDF that I screwed up, and used the template to cut open an opening for the router plate. I figured I might as well test how the template delivers. in the picture you can see the top hole which was the first attempt for the template, and the lower hole which was made by the 2nd attempt template as it's holding the plate:










once I had that dialed in. I setup the template over the phenolic top:










To get the depth of cut, I placed the Incra plate on top of my template, placed the router on top of that, and plunged (router unplugged) until the bit hit the table top. then set a depth stop for that setting. sorry I didn't take a picture, but I think shopnotes has an illustration of this in their "6 steps to install a router plate". what this does is sets the depth of cut for the template AND the router place, which means it'll cut exactly the thickness of the router plate below the template. I did find that this made the cut about 1/64" too shallow, and had to micro adjust the depth of cut to allow the plate to sit just slightly below the table top (so that I can shim it precisely level with the table top).

I then followed it with the 3/4" template bit on the router. this created a 3/4" lip all around for the plate to sit on. I wanted to have a wider lip than what I've seen on commercial tops (1/2"?) and the 3/4" seemed like a balanced size, large enough, but not overly large that it'll be in the way of the router.

to cut off the center I was a bit stumped again. I don't have a jigsaw. and didn't really want to route all that phenolic away (it's messy , very messy, and its hard hard hard on the bits) so I used a circular saw and plunged my way down through the phenolic, and following a straight edge as much as I could from both sides. the line doesn't have to be perfect as this is unseen, I just needed to take that center out. once I had the 4 edges cut through, I used a drill bit to release the corners and was left with this:










all in all, I was glad how the cutoff part came. I did slip with the circ saw beyond my end point, and notched the top part of the top. not a deal breaker, but would have been nicer if I didn't have that cut notch there.

I installed the router in the plate, and put it in. I need to tilt the router as I put it into the opening, but I think that's a usual thing with larger routers (this one is rather large). it sits very nicely, and extends through the table to change bits:










the first thing that I checked for which I was curious for all along was how convenient the controls on the router would be (on/off button, and height adjustment). I must say - with the router installed diagonally over the plate, reaching for both the power button, and for the height control is very very convenient - I was very positively surprised with this as I expected this part to be somewhat disappointing.

so far, so good. I'm glad how this came out, and I'm even more glad to be DONE with this phenolic hell (at least for now).

Peace.


----------



## ellen35 (Jan 1, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Insert an Insert an Insert an Insert an....*
> 
> OK. I caved in and bought an Incra Insert for the router table after they posted it back in stock. It's the 3/8" phenolic plate that is their 'old' design. the opening for the router is 3 3/8" as opposed to the new Aluminum plate which are 3 5/8". also it's not as mechanical capable as the aluminum plates, but for $35 it's within my budget. and still a very good plate. what I really like about the Incras is their MagnaLock plate inserts which snaps into place with magnets and is toolless - no need for a screwdriver, or a handle to lock/unlock the inserts in place.
> 
> ...


Sharon,
This is looking really really good!
That top is something else!
Ellen


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## Brad_Nailor (Jul 26, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Insert an Insert an Insert an Insert an....*
> 
> OK. I caved in and bought an Incra Insert for the router table after they posted it back in stock. It's the 3/8" phenolic plate that is their 'old' design. the opening for the router is 3 3/8" as opposed to the new Aluminum plate which are 3 5/8". also it's not as mechanical capable as the aluminum plates, but for $35 it's within my budget. and still a very good plate. what I really like about the Incras is their MagnaLock plate inserts which snaps into place with magnets and is toolless - no need for a screwdriver, or a handle to lock/unlock the inserts in place.
> 
> ...


Nice work Purp…..looks good.


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## MarkwithaK (Sep 12, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Insert an Insert an Insert an Insert an....*
> 
> OK. I caved in and bought an Incra Insert for the router table after they posted it back in stock. It's the 3/8" phenolic plate that is their 'old' design. the opening for the router is 3 3/8" as opposed to the new Aluminum plate which are 3 5/8". also it's not as mechanical capable as the aluminum plates, but for $35 it's within my budget. and still a very good plate. what I really like about the Incras is their MagnaLock plate inserts which snaps into place with magnets and is toolless - no need for a screwdriver, or a handle to lock/unlock the inserts in place.
> 
> ...


Nice job.


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## chief101 (Oct 30, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Insert an Insert an Insert an Insert an....*
> 
> OK. I caved in and bought an Incra Insert for the router table after they posted it back in stock. It's the 3/8" phenolic plate that is their 'old' design. the opening for the router is 3 3/8" as opposed to the new Aluminum plate which are 3 5/8". also it's not as mechanical capable as the aluminum plates, but for $35 it's within my budget. and still a very good plate. what I really like about the Incras is their MagnaLock plate inserts which snaps into place with magnets and is toolless - no need for a screwdriver, or a handle to lock/unlock the inserts in place.
> 
> ...


Very nice looking table big also.


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## gfixler (Feb 21, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Insert an Insert an Insert an Insert an....*
> 
> OK. I caved in and bought an Incra Insert for the router table after they posted it back in stock. It's the 3/8" phenolic plate that is their 'old' design. the opening for the router is 3 3/8" as opposed to the new Aluminum plate which are 3 5/8". also it's not as mechanical capable as the aluminum plates, but for $35 it's within my budget. and still a very good plate. what I really like about the Incras is their MagnaLock plate inserts which snaps into place with magnets and is toolless - no need for a screwdriver, or a handle to lock/unlock the inserts in place.
> 
> ...


Nice work! I have never done this, and have always feared it, and it seems that's justified. It's not an easy task, but you got through it, and it came out great.


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## bigike (May 25, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Insert an Insert an Insert an Insert an....*
> 
> OK. I caved in and bought an Incra Insert for the router table after they posted it back in stock. It's the 3/8" phenolic plate that is their 'old' design. the opening for the router is 3 3/8" as opposed to the new Aluminum plate which are 3 5/8". also it's not as mechanical capable as the aluminum plates, but for $35 it's within my budget. and still a very good plate. what I really like about the Incras is their MagnaLock plate inserts which snaps into place with magnets and is toolless - no need for a screwdriver, or a handle to lock/unlock the inserts in place.
> 
> ...


very good job. looks like a tight fit.


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## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Insert an Insert an Insert an Insert an....*
> 
> OK. I caved in and bought an Incra Insert for the router table after they posted it back in stock. It's the 3/8" phenolic plate that is their 'old' design. the opening for the router is 3 3/8" as opposed to the new Aluminum plate which are 3 5/8". also it's not as mechanical capable as the aluminum plates, but for $35 it's within my budget. and still a very good plate. what I really like about the Incras is their MagnaLock plate inserts which snaps into place with magnets and is toolless - no need for a screwdriver, or a handle to lock/unlock the inserts in place.
> 
> ...


awesome tutorial. i'm dreaming of doing this some day, but I don't think its going to happen. so many space constraints.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Insert an Insert an Insert an Insert an....*
> 
> OK. I caved in and bought an Incra Insert for the router table after they posted it back in stock. It's the 3/8" phenolic plate that is their 'old' design. the opening for the router is 3 3/8" as opposed to the new Aluminum plate which are 3 5/8". also it's not as mechanical capable as the aluminum plates, but for $35 it's within my budget. and still a very good plate. what I really like about the Incras is their MagnaLock plate inserts which snaps into place with magnets and is toolless - no need for a screwdriver, or a handle to lock/unlock the inserts in place.
> 
> ...


Thanks guys,

I must say - for putting 2 parts together this is ALOT of work. but because this is considered 'machinery' you don't really want to mess it up. do it once and do it right.

*HokieMojo* - I know what you mean, this router table was in the plans for a long long long long time (2007). was finally now able to make space for it in the TS outfeed space. creative thinking might find you the space for it - although some places (like my previous house) just doesn't have that extra space. in which case there's always the breakdown/mobile table solution.


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## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Insert an Insert an Insert an Insert an....*
> 
> OK. I caved in and bought an Incra Insert for the router table after they posted it back in stock. It's the 3/8" phenolic plate that is their 'old' design. the opening for the router is 3 3/8" as opposed to the new Aluminum plate which are 3 5/8". also it's not as mechanical capable as the aluminum plates, but for $35 it's within my budget. and still a very good plate. what I really like about the Incras is their MagnaLock plate inserts which snaps into place with magnets and is toolless - no need for a screwdriver, or a handle to lock/unlock the inserts in place.
> 
> ...


It's gonna bee good. You're right, that magnetic insert thingy will be handy. Mine has little machine screws. You tend not to change it to the correct size that way when you should.

With this table and your new triton router you should be all set to do some great things.

After I made my router table I did some raised panel cabinet doors. The first time it's a daunting experience but an extremely rewarding one if you've never done it before. Not to mention the set of three router bits to do it is about $160! But those bits could make a bunch of nice stuff.

Have you made your fence yet? Looking at your table without slots it looks like you might not have. I'm currently rebuilding mine. My mistake was not having a very wide boxed in area for the chip collection. When routing with a fence with the grain the chips often come off as long splinters. without a wide area for them to go and a 4" pipe they tend to clog up the opening and you have to stop and clean them out.

Also, my first table top had slots for the fence to slide back and forth in. The second time I used short pieces of T-track. Both work but I like the track much better. I've also installed a smaller vacuum port in the lower router area. I've had up to 5 gallons of shavings before with way to few passes to justify that much shavings.

Here you can see both the T-track and the fence with the older small port for dust collection.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Insert an Insert an Insert an Insert an....*
> 
> OK. I caved in and bought an Incra Insert for the router table after they posted it back in stock. It's the 3/8" phenolic plate that is their 'old' design. the opening for the router is 3 3/8" as opposed to the new Aluminum plate which are 3 5/8". also it's not as mechanical capable as the aluminum plates, but for $35 it's within my budget. and still a very good plate. what I really like about the Incras is their MagnaLock plate inserts which snaps into place with magnets and is toolless - no need for a screwdriver, or a handle to lock/unlock the inserts in place.
> 
> ...


Thanks Daniel. I'm going to get a raised panel set when I have a project that justifies that expense - probably after we buy our house and do the kitchen cabinetry (not anytime soon).

as for the fence - the plan is to have an Incra type fence positioner which will be bolted to the back of the table top. for now I'm just going to clamp down my incra-jig with a sub ply base. as for the actual fence. I'm still undecided, but for now will probably just have a simple fence to get me going. I'll keep your points in mind as DC is highly important as is jointing capabilities (not necessarily for jointing, but for edge treatment), and zero clearance on the fence.


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## KentS (May 27, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Insert an Insert an Insert an Insert an....*
> 
> OK. I caved in and bought an Incra Insert for the router table after they posted it back in stock. It's the 3/8" phenolic plate that is their 'old' design. the opening for the router is 3 3/8" as opposed to the new Aluminum plate which are 3 5/8". also it's not as mechanical capable as the aluminum plates, but for $35 it's within my budget. and still a very good plate. what I really like about the Incras is their MagnaLock plate inserts which snaps into place with magnets and is toolless - no need for a screwdriver, or a handle to lock/unlock the inserts in place.
> 
> ...


Lookin good! Nice job on the blog too. A lot of helpful information.

Thanks.


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

PurpLev said:


> *Insert an Insert an Insert an Insert an....*
> 
> OK. I caved in and bought an Incra Insert for the router table after they posted it back in stock. It's the 3/8" phenolic plate that is their 'old' design. the opening for the router is 3 3/8" as opposed to the new Aluminum plate which are 3 5/8". also it's not as mechanical capable as the aluminum plates, but for $35 it's within my budget. and still a very good plate. what I really like about the Incras is their MagnaLock plate inserts which snaps into place with magnets and is toolless - no need for a screwdriver, or a handle to lock/unlock the inserts in place.
> 
> ...


Sharon: A nice looking job on the insert When I bought my first insert that also had available an MDF pattern that you could buy. I bought it and it sure made life easy.

Getting the accurate pattern is the hardest part.

Nice job.


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## ajosephg (Aug 25, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Insert an Insert an Insert an Insert an....*
> 
> OK. I caved in and bought an Incra Insert for the router table after they posted it back in stock. It's the 3/8" phenolic plate that is their 'old' design. the opening for the router is 3 3/8" as opposed to the new Aluminum plate which are 3 5/8". also it's not as mechanical capable as the aluminum plates, but for $35 it's within my budget. and still a very good plate. what I really like about the Incras is their MagnaLock plate inserts which snaps into place with magnets and is toolless - no need for a screwdriver, or a handle to lock/unlock the inserts in place.
> 
> ...


I like the idea of cutting the template corners 5 degrees off.

Re: reaching under to turn router on/off. I bought a "remote" switch from Rockler with a big old stop button on it so as to fix that problem.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Insert an Insert an Insert an Insert an....*
> 
> OK. I caved in and bought an Incra Insert for the router table after they posted it back in stock. It's the 3/8" phenolic plate that is their 'old' design. the opening for the router is 3 3/8" as opposed to the new Aluminum plate which are 3 5/8". also it's not as mechanical capable as the aluminum plates, but for $35 it's within my budget. and still a very good plate. what I really like about the Incras is their MagnaLock plate inserts which snaps into place with magnets and is toolless - no need for a screwdriver, or a handle to lock/unlock the inserts in place.
> 
> ...


Thanks guys.

*Karson* - I heard mixed reviews of the available templates. some say that the fit was too loose. also I'm not doing this for a living, and have to be very mindful of expenses, so I figured I'll make the template from scrap that I had = less expenses, better fit, and I get to clean up the scrap pile. win-win-win situation.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Insert an Insert an Insert an Insert an....*
> 
> OK. I caved in and bought an Incra Insert for the router table after they posted it back in stock. It's the 3/8" phenolic plate that is their 'old' design. the opening for the router is 3 3/8" as opposed to the new Aluminum plate which are 3 5/8". also it's not as mechanical capable as the aluminum plates, but for $35 it's within my budget. and still a very good plate. what I really like about the Incras is their MagnaLock plate inserts which snaps into place with magnets and is toolless - no need for a screwdriver, or a handle to lock/unlock the inserts in place.
> 
> ...


Thanks *Joe* - in the long run I'll probably get some remote on/off button. right now I'm just trying to get this station operational with minimal expenses. but leaving room for improvement in the future.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*Drawers, Bits, and a little Playtime*

Had some shop time today with 42 degrees outside, it was quite a lovely day. my compressor came back to life also - I guess when it goes below 40 the air is too thin for the compressor to be able to raise the pressure in the tank.

I also got the radiant heater from Lee Valley. Last time around, by the time I decided to order it- they were out of stock, and just received new stock this week. it works well, not as well as I was hoping for, but decent. To turn it on/off you have to yank on a fabric string - I would have preferred a more standard switch. we'll see how it'll be in the long run.

So,Today I had planned to finish up the drawers for the cabinet, but what I really wanted to start with was to setup the router in the table properly - shim the plate, drill the plate for the height crank handle, and get the table to be operational.

I noticed that the opening for the plate I had made was a tad bit too tight. I didn't want to have to push the plate in - just to drop it in easily. I ended up opening it up a tad bit with a chisel. If I ever install another plate, I'll make sure it goes into the template easily. too tight in this case wasn't the best idea.

the second thing I noticed was that the Incra plate has a high spot in the middle lengthwise. If I put a straight edge on it, it'll rock left to right. this was a little disheartening, but I'll contact Incra and see if there's anything that can be done about it as this can make some operations quite unbearable.

At that point I cut the (remaining) drawers parts on the TS. and decided to route the slot for the bottom using the router in the table. the bit that I have for undersize 1/4" plywood is 1/4" shaft which means that for the Triton router I have to use a collet reducer (from 1/2" to 1/4"). I don't know if it's my bit, my collet, my reducer, or just my inexperience with this type of work - but I had a really hard time keeping the bit in the router. it kept on sliding up and out - it actually caused the bit to poke thorough the 1/2" plywood drawer side - completely through it! when all it was supposed to do was route a groove 1/4" deep. at last I tried to overtighten it, and I believe it did the trick as the bit did no longer slide out - however when I took it out of the router, I had a hard time taking the bit out of the reducer - as if the reducer got crimped. does anyone with experience with reducers had this happening before? is this normal?

luckily - this is shop furniture, so I did not care much about the messed up drawer side.

after this. things started to get better. the router is very nice to work with in the table. the height crank handle is GREAT! bit change above table is AWESOME! and the Incra MagnaLock rings are very convenient. the only thing with them is that the magnet picks up every metal to it - such as the router wrench, and other metal debris which can interfere with the ring sitting flush. not a biggy, just different I guess.

the drawers construction went without a hitch. and I was able to fit them all in on the first try. most of them already have dedicated purposes, while the rest will get their share later:










the slides are a mismatch from slides I used in the past that no longer are in use. 2 are under mount, 2 are side mount, and 1 is full extension which I will use for the bits drawer as that one requires the deepest reach.

*Router Bit Arrangement*

I like to see the profile of my router bits when I'm searching for a particular cut, and that is why I'm not a bit fan of the horizontal bit holders that some use. I have been playing around with an angled rack concept which allows me to see the shape of each bit quickly, and also allows me to keep my bits drawer shallower, leaving more depth for other drawers:










I got the idea for the angled rack from a router-bit-storage-cabinet plan I got from Freud (when I got their Avanti 13 router bit set). Using Sketchup I decided on the best angles, and size of each rack for my needs, and came up with a 15 degree back cut which gives me enough space behind/underneath the bits to grab them, and also keeps the bits from protruding above the drawer height:










I actually stack 2 different width racks to more storage, and I'll repeat this dualrack configuration 2 more times into the drawer, for more 1/2" bits and 1/4" bits storage.

So Far So Good. nothing perfect. but certainly getting functional and convenient. I was finally able to group everything router related into a single area.

Peace.


----------



## gizmodyne (Mar 15, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawers, Bits, and a little Playtime*
> 
> Had some shop time today with 42 degrees outside, it was quite a lovely day. my compressor came back to life also - I guess when it goes below 40 the air is too thin for the compressor to be able to raise the pressure in the tank.
> 
> ...


Looking good.

I have had that happen in the exact same situation. I ended up patching the hole, but it was a little scary thinking about the bit helicoptering out at me.

Is it a collet reducer or a 1/4" collet?


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## bigike (May 25, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawers, Bits, and a little Playtime*
> 
> Had some shop time today with 42 degrees outside, it was quite a lovely day. my compressor came back to life also - I guess when it goes below 40 the air is too thin for the compressor to be able to raise the pressure in the tank.
> 
> ...


nice work, the fence u have on there from incra can u do double double dovetails and finger joints with that one?


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawers, Bits, and a little Playtime*
> 
> Had some shop time today with 42 degrees outside, it was quite a lovely day. my compressor came back to life also - I guess when it goes below 40 the air is too thin for the compressor to be able to raise the pressure in the tank.
> 
> ...


gizmo - it's a collet-reducer. you can actually see it holding the blue bit for 1/4" undersize plywood in the bit rack.

my other/previous router is a Bosch and it comes with 2 different collets, one for 1/2" and one for 1/4" so I never used a reducer before, and never experienced this phenomenal.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawers, Bits, and a little Playtime*
> 
> Had some shop time today with 42 degrees outside, it was quite a lovely day. my compressor came back to life also - I guess when it goes below 40 the air is too thin for the compressor to be able to raise the pressure in the tank.
> 
> ...


bigike - I've actually never (yet) used that fence. I put it up late tonight after I was all done. for doing the drawers today I had a jointed board clamped to the table acting as a fence.

Incra shows in the manual for this fence how to do finger joints, blind dovertails, through dovetails, and corner post dovetail. theoretically I would assume that double double are doable with this as the precision is down to 1/32" which should be good enough. but I'm not sure if they have the templates for that for this fence. probably can fabricate something.


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## 559dustdesigns (Sep 23, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawers, Bits, and a little Playtime*
> 
> Had some shop time today with 42 degrees outside, it was quite a lovely day. my compressor came back to life also - I guess when it goes below 40 the air is too thin for the compressor to be able to raise the pressure in the tank.
> 
> ...


That's a good idea for organizing your bits. Nice job, thanks for sharing


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## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawers, Bits, and a little Playtime*
> 
> Had some shop time today with 42 degrees outside, it was quite a lovely day. my compressor came back to life also - I guess when it goes below 40 the air is too thin for the compressor to be able to raise the pressure in the tank.
> 
> ...


I've been following the project Sharon. It's coming together now nicely. This is going to be not only a useful unit but also one that has a low frustration level.


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## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawers, Bits, and a little Playtime*
> 
> Had some shop time today with 42 degrees outside, it was quite a lovely day. my compressor came back to life also - I guess when it goes below 40 the air is too thin for the compressor to be able to raise the pressure in the tank.
> 
> ...


Way Cool. I too have been following and like what I have seen and read… well done.


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## davcefai (Feb 6, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawers, Bits, and a little Playtime*
> 
> Had some shop time today with 42 degrees outside, it was quite a lovely day. my compressor came back to life also - I guess when it goes below 40 the air is too thin for the compressor to be able to raise the pressure in the tank.
> 
> ...


Compressor and cold

The colder air is, the denser it gets so that air density is not the problem with your compressor.

I have read posts about this on other fora and the consensus seems to be that compressor problems at low temperatures are due to the oil thickening and the metal contracting.


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## Timbo (Aug 21, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawers, Bits, and a little Playtime*
> 
> Had some shop time today with 42 degrees outside, it was quite a lovely day. my compressor came back to life also - I guess when it goes below 40 the air is too thin for the compressor to be able to raise the pressure in the tank.
> 
> ...


Looking good Sharon, good idea on the bit storage.


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## ellen35 (Jan 1, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawers, Bits, and a little Playtime*
> 
> Had some shop time today with 42 degrees outside, it was quite a lovely day. my compressor came back to life also - I guess when it goes below 40 the air is too thin for the compressor to be able to raise the pressure in the tank.
> 
> ...


Sharon, nice progress… and nice to have a little warmer weather to work in!!
That table is going to rival your workbench for quality!
Ellen


----------



## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawers, Bits, and a little Playtime*
> 
> Had some shop time today with 42 degrees outside, it was quite a lovely day. my compressor came back to life also - I guess when it goes below 40 the air is too thin for the compressor to be able to raise the pressure in the tank.
> 
> ...


Looks good Sharon,

I don't like reducers much for the exact reasons you mention. At first they slip, and then they won't let go. It seems to be the nature of the game. I guess I always 'over tighten' them, so then comes the problem of removal. I insert a 1/4 inch bolt from the back side and tap to get it out. Don't leave a bit in the reducer for a long time of they kind of really get stuck. After removal, you might have some barbs on the shank that will need to be filed smooth or you won't be able to get it back in. Rinse and repeat.

Can you get a collet for that router? Saves a lot of headache.
Steve


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawers, Bits, and a little Playtime*
> 
> Had some shop time today with 42 degrees outside, it was quite a lovely day. my compressor came back to life also - I guess when it goes below 40 the air is too thin for the compressor to be able to raise the pressure in the tank.
> 
> ...


thanks everyone.

*davcefair* - thanks for the tidbit. glad to hear this is a known issue, and not only my compressor.

*Steve*- I think I read somewhere that there are replacement collets for this router which are self releasing like the Bosch. I'll have to look it up again - this might be the best and only doable solution. thanks!


----------



## Padre (Nov 5, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawers, Bits, and a little Playtime*
> 
> Had some shop time today with 42 degrees outside, it was quite a lovely day. my compressor came back to life also - I guess when it goes below 40 the air is too thin for the compressor to be able to raise the pressure in the tank.
> 
> ...


Really nice use of space, and good looking too.


----------



## Alonso83 (Jul 14, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawers, Bits, and a little Playtime*
> 
> Had some shop time today with 42 degrees outside, it was quite a lovely day. my compressor came back to life also - I guess when it goes below 40 the air is too thin for the compressor to be able to raise the pressure in the tank.
> 
> ...


Sharon,

What kind/brand of router bits are those? (the dark grey ones)


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawers, Bits, and a little Playtime*
> 
> Had some shop time today with 42 degrees outside, it was quite a lovely day. my compressor came back to life also - I guess when it goes below 40 the air is too thin for the compressor to be able to raise the pressure in the tank.
> 
> ...


Alonso - those are Freud bits. It's their Avanti series. they perform very well.


----------



## paulsalisbury (Apr 1, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawers, Bits, and a little Playtime*
> 
> Had some shop time today with 42 degrees outside, it was quite a lovely day. my compressor came back to life also - I guess when it goes below 40 the air is too thin for the compressor to be able to raise the pressure in the tank.
> 
> ...


Your articles are so helpful and I personally have taken a lot for your guidance. What I am looking to do, is build a conservatory for the home. Any advice will be gladly received.


----------



## cloakie1 (May 29, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawers, Bits, and a little Playtime*
> 
> Had some shop time today with 42 degrees outside, it was quite a lovely day. my compressor came back to life also - I guess when it goes below 40 the air is too thin for the compressor to be able to raise the pressure in the tank.
> 
> ...


i have also had probs with collet reducers…easy enough to get the bit out but then can't remove the reducer…i think my router collet is no good because i also have trouble removing 1/2 bits as well…am saving up for another router so that i can just keep my current one for a specific job….awesome looking table…..might have to make a few adjustments to mine i think…at the moment it is a slammed together mixture of whatever i could find and then clamp it to the bench


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## webbizideas (Jun 8, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawers, Bits, and a little Playtime*
> 
> Had some shop time today with 42 degrees outside, it was quite a lovely day. my compressor came back to life also - I guess when it goes below 40 the air is too thin for the compressor to be able to raise the pressure in the tank.
> 
> ...


Kudos for using those mismatched slides instead of running out and buying new matching ones. I'm a huge fan of not buying something new when you can recycle something that works just as well.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawers, Bits, and a little Playtime*
> 
> Had some shop time today with 42 degrees outside, it was quite a lovely day. my compressor came back to life also - I guess when it goes below 40 the air is too thin for the compressor to be able to raise the pressure in the tank.
> 
> ...


Jim, I will always try to make shift with what I've got even if it means slight design changes (sizes usually) and will only go an buy new material is there is no way around it, or if there is a specific requirement to use something that I don't have a substitute to. this way it costs less, and clears some of the clutter that is otherwise occupied with things that are unused.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*A Cold Front - Drawer Fronts that is*

day started with a snow blizzard mixed with slush. no fun at cleaning that up as it's super heavy. but that also mean that it was above freezing temperatures.

today I was able to glue up the drawer fronts. these are mostly maple, with some mahogany strips. the mahogany strips are there as a design feature that helps blend in the drawer pulls which will be installed next and will also be made of mahogany - hence the blend in.

I added some 1/8" strips of mahogany and maple as well to give it a more refined look. first thing was to glueup the strips before glueing them to the larger maple board of the drawer. this makes it easier to control the glueing process as there are quit a bit of strips:










once that was set, I planed those strips clean, and glued it to the larger maple board of each drawer. then brought it back into the house to cure as the garage is becoming too cold for the glue:










next would be to plane those drawer fronts down, and trim to size. after that install the drawer pulls, and attach to drawers.

the 2 doors will follow the same design only the strips will be vertical.

Peace.


----------



## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *A Cold Front - Drawer Fronts that is*
> 
> day started with a snow blizzard mixed with slush. no fun at cleaning that up as it's super heavy. but that also mean that it was above freezing temperatures.
> 
> ...


Man those are some fine looking fancy smancy drawer fronts! Can't wait to see the finshed product!


----------



## Timbo (Aug 21, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *A Cold Front - Drawer Fronts that is*
> 
> day started with a snow blizzard mixed with slush. no fun at cleaning that up as it's super heavy. but that also mean that it was above freezing temperatures.
> 
> ...


Nice progress, I like the drawer design, and it doesn't involve snow shoveling…Brilliant!


----------



## gfixler (Feb 21, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *A Cold Front - Drawer Fronts that is*
> 
> day started with a snow blizzard mixed with slush. no fun at cleaning that up as it's super heavy. but that also mean that it was above freezing temperatures.
> 
> ...


Awesome. I look forward to seeing them cleaned up, milled down, and on the drawers.


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## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *A Cold Front - Drawer Fronts that is*
> 
> day started with a snow blizzard mixed with slush. no fun at cleaning that up as it's super heavy. but that also mean that it was above freezing temperatures.
> 
> ...


Jeepers Creepers,

This is for a router table? I guess this is another way to get a board stretcher when the original boards are not wide enough (?).

Looks Fine,
Steve


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *A Cold Front - Drawer Fronts that is*
> 
> day started with a snow blizzard mixed with slush. no fun at cleaning that up as it's super heavy. but that also mean that it was above freezing temperatures.
> 
> ...


heh, yeah - for a router table. the way I see it - I'm better off doing it right the first time around. also lets me experiment with some design ideas without having to worry about screwing it up. and yeah- another way to stretch a board when it's not wide enough  was able to use 1 board for 2 drawers this way.


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## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *A Cold Front - Drawer Fronts that is*
> 
> day started with a snow blizzard mixed with slush. no fun at cleaning that up as it's super heavy. but that also mean that it was above freezing temperatures.
> 
> ...


Some very nice shavings their too!


----------



## ryno101 (May 14, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *A Cold Front - Drawer Fronts that is*
> 
> day started with a snow blizzard mixed with slush. no fun at cleaning that up as it's super heavy. but that also mean that it was above freezing temperatures.
> 
> ...


Looking good! I had the exact same thing with the drawer fronts on my router table! Necessity, as they say, is the mother of invention, and what better way to stretch what you've got on hand than to integrate different woods as a "design element"!

Looking good, can't wait to see the finished product!


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*Drawer Fronts in Front(s) of the Drawers*

hand't got the chance to post this on sunday, but I did get a chance to mill the drawer fronts to thickness, width, and height on sunday, and temporarily install them on the drawers.

for lack of materials the drawer fronts came to be 3/8"+ in thickness as opposed to the original plan of 3/4", but since this is just drawer fronts, I'm not too concern about this. it actually makes it looks a bit more refined and elegant.

I do have some alignment issues as the drawers apparently were not glued square which causes the fronts to sit not flush with the face frames. I tried to hand plane the bottom drawer to hide that error, but then the glueup gave in - apparently the glueup in freezing temperatures didn't really took hold as good as I thought it did. it was strong enough for some lateral pulling force, but now with some shear force on it it gave in. So I have the lower drawer front stored and well, waiting for a new drawer to be built on which I'll attach the front. thats why the picture shows the lower drawer missing - RIP:









I aligned the fronts with a straight edge on the left side, and used a spacer to keep the gap between the drawer fronts even. I actually used a spacer from the top of each front face divider to the top of the drawer front. that way I didn't have to have the drawer above the one I was installing in place which gave me more room for my hands to work with. I then held the drawer fronts in place temporarily with 2 screws that will later be taken off after I decide that I'm happy with the positioning, and the holes will be covered with the drawer pulls. this made it fairly easy to position and hold the fronts in place.

I'm pretty happy with the way this turned out. just gotta pay more focus to squaring off the drawers in the future. something I'm not very good at.

Peace.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawer Fronts in Front(s) of the Drawers*
> 
> hand't got the chance to post this on sunday, but I did get a chance to mill the drawer fronts to thickness, width, and height on sunday, and temporarily install them on the drawers.
> 
> ...


Looking great. Nice design in those drawer fronts.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawer Fronts in Front(s) of the Drawers*
> 
> hand't got the chance to post this on sunday, but I did get a chance to mill the drawer fronts to thickness, width, and height on sunday, and temporarily install them on the drawers.
> 
> ...


Thanks Karson


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## Partridge (Jul 27, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawer Fronts in Front(s) of the Drawers*
> 
> hand't got the chance to post this on sunday, but I did get a chance to mill the drawer fronts to thickness, width, and height on sunday, and temporarily install them on the drawers.
> 
> ...


puts a little class into it


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## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawer Fronts in Front(s) of the Drawers*
> 
> hand't got the chance to post this on sunday, but I did get a chance to mill the drawer fronts to thickness, width, and height on sunday, and temporarily install them on the drawers.
> 
> ...


Sweet…. mate.


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawer Fronts in Front(s) of the Drawers*
> 
> hand't got the chance to post this on sunday, but I did get a chance to mill the drawer fronts to thickness, width, and height on sunday, and temporarily install them on the drawers.
> 
> ...


This is looking pretty good. At one time I thought that shop funiture needed only to be functional and could easily be made of parts from sheet good material cobbled together. But now, after seeing posts like this one, I have come to appreciate projects that also address form as well as functionality. Bottom line is that the drawer fronts look good and really dress up the appearance of the table.


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## ellen35 (Jan 1, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawer Fronts in Front(s) of the Drawers*
> 
> hand't got the chance to post this on sunday, but I did get a chance to mill the drawer fronts to thickness, width, and height on sunday, and temporarily install them on the drawers.
> 
> ...


Your router table looks better than furniture!!!
Those drawers look spectacular. The detail really makes it look nice.
Ellen


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## Timbo (Aug 21, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawer Fronts in Front(s) of the Drawers*
> 
> hand't got the chance to post this on sunday, but I did get a chance to mill the drawer fronts to thickness, width, and height on sunday, and temporarily install them on the drawers.
> 
> ...


I'l second Karsons comment on the drawers, they look great. Along with the straight edge on the left while installing the drawer fronts you could use a spacer between the drawers to help with positioning, starting at the bottom and working up.


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## gfixler (Feb 21, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawer Fronts in Front(s) of the Drawers*
> 
> hand't got the chance to post this on sunday, but I did get a chance to mill the drawer fronts to thickness, width, and height on sunday, and temporarily install them on the drawers.
> 
> ...


I'm saddened by the loss of the bottom drawer face, but the rest look great!


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawer Fronts in Front(s) of the Drawers*
> 
> hand't got the chance to post this on sunday, but I did get a chance to mill the drawer fronts to thickness, width, and height on sunday, and temporarily install them on the drawers.
> 
> ...


Thanks guys, glad it turned out to your liking. also to mine. depending on what in the shop, but a project that is more than a jig, I think that it adds a nice vibe and changes the atmosphere in the shop when you do it visually pleasing as well as functional. a project like this that really takes time to build and to a certain degree is somewhat complex - might as well put in the additional effort and turn it to also look better.

just to make it clear (*Gary*) - the lower Drawer Front is ALIVE and WELL, it's the drawer that got lost in the process while trying to flush it with the front of the face frames. I'll build a new drawer, and attach the (still in one piece) drawer front to it at a later date (aka - then I get the time).

*Tim* - yes, I did start from the bottom and used a spacer to align the drawer fronts with an even gap between them… I'll edit the post


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## Cher (Dec 6, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawer Fronts in Front(s) of the Drawers*
> 
> hand't got the chance to post this on sunday, but I did get a chance to mill the drawer fronts to thickness, width, and height on sunday, and temporarily install them on the drawers.
> 
> ...


Nice piece for the workshop.


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## jlsmith5963 (Mar 26, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawer Fronts in Front(s) of the Drawers*
> 
> hand't got the chance to post this on sunday, but I did get a chance to mill the drawer fronts to thickness, width, and height on sunday, and temporarily install them on the drawers.
> 
> ...


Sorry to hear about the glue failure… checking of diagonals to verify squareness is a habit that everyone needs to develop


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## wookie (Dec 15, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawer Fronts in Front(s) of the Drawers*
> 
> hand't got the chance to post this on sunday, but I did get a chance to mill the drawer fronts to thickness, width, and height on sunday, and temporarily install them on the drawers.
> 
> ...


Them there drawers sure are fancy! I would also agree that it looks a lot better than most of the furniture in my house. lol Mazel Tov


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawer Fronts in Front(s) of the Drawers*
> 
> hand't got the chance to post this on sunday, but I did get a chance to mill the drawer fronts to thickness, width, and height on sunday, and temporarily install them on the drawers.
> 
> ...


It going to be really nice when finished. I hope you get your drawer problem solved ok as I assume this router table will be used in your living room. lol


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Drawer Fronts in Front(s) of the Drawers*
> 
> hand't got the chance to post this on sunday, but I did get a chance to mill the drawer fronts to thickness, width, and height on sunday, and temporarily install them on the drawers.
> 
> ...


Thanks guys, yes, this is going to be in the living room and will also serve as an entertainment system (in todays economy, entertainment is a commodity)


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*The Good the Bad and the Ugly... New Fence Arrived*

I saw an ad on craigslist for a Jointech 12" router fence positioner which is similar to the Incra LS positioner -has a lead screw, and has what Incra sells as add on - the "wonder fence" as the standard fence. the guy posted it as used, but at what Jointech is selling it NEW… I contacted the person trying to negotiate a win-win situation. that was 2 weeks ago. the jointech fence is still on craigslist. I just couldn't justify his price for a fence I'm not familiar with, that has no online reviews, when I can get a brand new Incra for about the same amount, which is a proven fence.

after doing some research, I found that my fav. supplier, Lee Valley had the best price and ordered it from them. the fence arrived and had a couple of scratches on them. I contacted LV, and before I even clicked the "send" button, I already got a reply from them (ok - not THAT fast, but I sent the message 11pm, and got a reply before 8:30am the next day! thats FAST). the reply stated that they had already sent a replacement fence system, and a prepaid shipping label for me to send back the first one. that's Customer Service for ya. I am always impressed with Lee Valley.

So. I got the new fence, and all is well. this fence is phenomenal, and the online videos and brochures does not do it justice. you really have to see it in person to appreciate the design and precision build into it.

That was the GOOD.

now - for the BAD.

I originally designed the phenolic table top with the LS positioner in mind - but since I did not have a way to figure out the distances between fence and router, and fence, router and table. I ended up installing the insert a little too deep into the table, not leaving much room for the reach of the LS positioner (I have the 17" version).

I modeled the Incra 17" LS positioner in Sketchup, and imported it into my router table model, played around with it, until I was happy with a better design and potitioning of the elements on the top:









hence the BAD - I had to recut an opening in the phenolic top. I guess I was too quick to say I won't be doing that for a while lat time around.

This time, I made the template a little differently. I pretty much repeated the process I did the last time, only I shimmed the pre-template with a thin paper so that the insert would slide in smoothly and not be too tight. I also only routed the template's straight edges, and then shaped the rounded corners with a rasp - the template was PERFECT.

problem is, when I started routing the phenolic top, on one edge my template bit sneaked up into the collet, causing the bearing to be above the router base, and the router dug into the template, and away from the straight line on the top, I noticed it a little too late (following picture, further errors on left of insert). I fixed the issue with the bit, and continued routing, when on the opposite edge (right side of insert closest error in picture) the bit dug into a part of the phenolic which made the router jump off, and tear a piece of the top off. I guess there was a cross woven part that was harder to route, and the bit got caught in it. I kept my cool, and continued routing all around, and cut the middle with a circular saw. apparently I just have poor luck routing those insert openings - thats 2nd time in a row and 2 out of 2.

so thats the Ugly:









All in all, it's only cosmetic. the insert fits in beautifully and easily - much better than the tight fit on the previous opening. I'm going to cover the previous opening with a 5/8" insert of phenolic that I have, and may use it in the future if I need more support for the parts being routed. I'll just flip the table end for end.

At the end of the day, here is the fence installed:









Knowing what I know now, if I had to do it again (or will in the future) I would just order the router top from Incra and forgo all the hassle. this was a part of this project that I really did not like working on.


----------



## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *The Good the Bad and the Ugly... New Fence Arrived*
> 
> I saw an ad on craigslist for a Jointech 12" router fence positioner which is similar to the Incra LS positioner -has a lead screw, and has what Incra sells as add on - the "wonder fence" as the standard fence. the guy posted it as used, but at what Jointech is selling it NEW… I contacted the person trying to negotiate a win-win situation. that was 2 weeks ago. the jointech fence is still on craigslist. I just couldn't justify his price for a fence I'm not familiar with, that has no online reviews, when I can get a brand new Incra for about the same amount, which is a proven fence.
> 
> ...


Hey, you're a better man for it. I looks really nice.

I feel for you though, I had to cut a beveled rectangular hole in the top for the sander I just built. I believe it was just as nerve racking.

Now I want one of these too. Thanks for ruining my day,
Steve


----------



## webwood (Jul 2, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *The Good the Bad and the Ugly... New Fence Arrived*
> 
> I saw an ad on craigslist for a Jointech 12" router fence positioner which is similar to the Incra LS positioner -has a lead screw, and has what Incra sells as add on - the "wonder fence" as the standard fence. the guy posted it as used, but at what Jointech is selling it NEW… I contacted the person trying to negotiate a win-win situation. that was 2 weeks ago. the jointech fence is still on craigslist. I just couldn't justify his price for a fence I'm not familiar with, that has no online reviews, when I can get a brand new Incra for about the same amount, which is a proven fence.
> 
> ...


thats why i bought the table top as well - but you will be amazed by the accuracy of this system - still need to think but if you are on it's on - i love mine


----------



## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *The Good the Bad and the Ugly... New Fence Arrived*
> 
> I saw an ad on craigslist for a Jointech 12" router fence positioner which is similar to the Incra LS positioner -has a lead screw, and has what Incra sells as add on - the "wonder fence" as the standard fence. the guy posted it as used, but at what Jointech is selling it NEW… I contacted the person trying to negotiate a win-win situation. that was 2 weeks ago. the jointech fence is still on craigslist. I just couldn't justify his price for a fence I'm not familiar with, that has no online reviews, when I can get a brand new Incra for about the same amount, which is a proven fence.
> 
> ...


I am happy for you that it is all now over with… I am happy for me because I ordered the incra and all the gear and also had the forethought to pay the 200 bucks and get a purpose built table top for the cabinet… thereby foreogoing all the dramas of cutting the template hole… etc….
I am looking forward to getting my router table all set up…
Thanks for the blog on the cabinet itself… will use some of your great ideas…


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

PurpLev said:


> *The Good the Bad and the Ugly... New Fence Arrived*
> 
> I saw an ad on craigslist for a Jointech 12" router fence positioner which is similar to the Incra LS positioner -has a lead screw, and has what Incra sells as add on - the "wonder fence" as the standard fence. the guy posted it as used, but at what Jointech is selling it NEW… I contacted the person trying to negotiate a win-win situation. that was 2 weeks ago. the jointech fence is still on craigslist. I just couldn't justify his price for a fence I'm not familiar with, that has no online reviews, when I can get a brand new Incra for about the same amount, which is a proven fence.
> 
> ...


Well a great addition to your table. Sorry about the misfortune on the routing.

It happens to all of us.


----------



## MarkwithaK (Sep 12, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *The Good the Bad and the Ugly... New Fence Arrived*
> 
> I saw an ad on craigslist for a Jointech 12" router fence positioner which is similar to the Incra LS positioner -has a lead screw, and has what Incra sells as add on - the "wonder fence" as the standard fence. the guy posted it as used, but at what Jointech is selling it NEW… I contacted the person trying to negotiate a win-win situation. that was 2 weeks ago. the jointech fence is still on craigslist. I just couldn't justify his price for a fence I'm not familiar with, that has no online reviews, when I can get a brand new Incra for about the same amount, which is a proven fence.
> 
> ...


At first I was unsure about the orientation of that Incra Positioner but the more I see it the more I am starting to like it.


----------



## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *The Good the Bad and the Ugly... New Fence Arrived*
> 
> I saw an ad on craigslist for a Jointech 12" router fence positioner which is similar to the Incra LS positioner -has a lead screw, and has what Incra sells as add on - the "wonder fence" as the standard fence. the guy posted it as used, but at what Jointech is selling it NEW… I contacted the person trying to negotiate a win-win situation. that was 2 weeks ago. the jointech fence is still on craigslist. I just couldn't justify his price for a fence I'm not familiar with, that has no online reviews, when I can get a brand new Incra for about the same amount, which is a proven fence.
> 
> ...


Nothing that a little bit of epoxy won't fix….looks good!


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *The Good the Bad and the Ugly... New Fence Arrived*
> 
> I saw an ad on craigslist for a Jointech 12" router fence positioner which is similar to the Incra LS positioner -has a lead screw, and has what Incra sells as add on - the "wonder fence" as the standard fence. the guy posted it as used, but at what Jointech is selling it NEW… I contacted the person trying to negotiate a win-win situation. that was 2 weeks ago. the jointech fence is still on craigslist. I just couldn't justify his price for a fence I'm not familiar with, that has no online reviews, when I can get a brand new Incra for about the same amount, which is a proven fence.
> 
> ...


Thanks guys.

sIKE- as usual - thats a GREAT IDEA. If this'll bother me enough, I think I'll take up on this and fill this up. thanks!


----------



## blackcherry (Dec 7, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *The Good the Bad and the Ugly... New Fence Arrived*
> 
> I saw an ad on craigslist for a Jointech 12" router fence positioner which is similar to the Incra LS positioner -has a lead screw, and has what Incra sells as add on - the "wonder fence" as the standard fence. the guy posted it as used, but at what Jointech is selling it NEW… I contacted the person trying to negotiate a win-win situation. that was 2 weeks ago. the jointech fence is still on craigslist. I just couldn't justify his price for a fence I'm not familiar with, that has no online reviews, when I can get a brand new Incra for about the same amount, which is a proven fence.
> 
> ...


Your going to love this unit. I just sold my incra ultra today with plan on ordering the LS 17 Super System. I purchase my ultra 20 years ago and its still performs like day one, a solid made product. I had to cut the hole out for a extra plate I had on my table saw extension and I order the template from Woodpecker a real life saver for making you own top. Enjoy your new ace of a tool can't wait to see what it turns out…stay safe…Blackcherry


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## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *The Good the Bad and the Ugly... New Fence Arrived*
> 
> I saw an ad on craigslist for a Jointech 12" router fence positioner which is similar to the Incra LS positioner -has a lead screw, and has what Incra sells as add on - the "wonder fence" as the standard fence. the guy posted it as used, but at what Jointech is selling it NEW… I contacted the person trying to negotiate a win-win situation. that was 2 weeks ago. the jointech fence is still on craigslist. I just couldn't justify his price for a fence I'm not familiar with, that has no online reviews, when I can get a brand new Incra for about the same amount, which is a proven fence.
> 
> ...


How about mixing up some epoxy… even tinting it a little red and molding into those 'oops'. I'll bet it would hardly show when you're done.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *The Good the Bad and the Ugly... New Fence Arrived*
> 
> I saw an ad on craigslist for a Jointech 12" router fence positioner which is similar to the Incra LS positioner -has a lead screw, and has what Incra sells as add on - the "wonder fence" as the standard fence. the guy posted it as used, but at what Jointech is selling it NEW… I contacted the person trying to negotiate a win-win situation. that was 2 weeks ago. the jointech fence is still on craigslist. I just couldn't justify his price for a fence I'm not familiar with, that has no online reviews, when I can get a brand new Incra for about the same amount, which is a proven fence.
> 
> ...


*Daniel* - thats a good idea, the tine would blend in better. I think I'm going to make that as a mini-project at some point.

*Degoose *- you probably won't appreciate it much, but you should appreciate it quite a bit that you've ordered the top and don't have to deal with this mess… enjoy your peace of mind! (too late for me).

*Karson* - thanks for the reminder that it happens to everyone. although browsing through the posts here, it doesnt seem like it


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## Timbo (Aug 21, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *The Good the Bad and the Ugly... New Fence Arrived*
> 
> I saw an ad on craigslist for a Jointech 12" router fence positioner which is similar to the Incra LS positioner -has a lead screw, and has what Incra sells as add on - the "wonder fence" as the standard fence. the guy posted it as used, but at what Jointech is selling it NEW… I contacted the person trying to negotiate a win-win situation. that was 2 weeks ago. the jointech fence is still on craigslist. I just couldn't justify his price for a fence I'm not familiar with, that has no online reviews, when I can get a brand new Incra for about the same amount, which is a proven fence.
> 
> ...


Man you had to struggle with this one! Looks good, you are really going to enjoy having this new tool.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *The Good the Bad and the Ugly... New Fence Arrived*
> 
> I saw an ad on craigslist for a Jointech 12" router fence positioner which is similar to the Incra LS positioner -has a lead screw, and has what Incra sells as add on - the "wonder fence" as the standard fence. the guy posted it as used, but at what Jointech is selling it NEW… I contacted the person trying to negotiate a win-win situation. that was 2 weeks ago. the jointech fence is still on craigslist. I just couldn't justify his price for a fence I'm not familiar with, that has no online reviews, when I can get a brand new Incra for about the same amount, which is a proven fence.
> 
> ...


yeah *Tim*, I seem to be struggling with every project at one point or another. on this one - I would happily pass on that challenge though  hope I don't have to make a 3rd opening…lol


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## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *The Good the Bad and the Ugly... New Fence Arrived*
> 
> I saw an ad on craigslist for a Jointech 12" router fence positioner which is similar to the Incra LS positioner -has a lead screw, and has what Incra sells as add on - the "wonder fence" as the standard fence. the guy posted it as used, but at what Jointech is selling it NEW… I contacted the person trying to negotiate a win-win situation. that was 2 weeks ago. the jointech fence is still on craigslist. I just couldn't justify his price for a fence I'm not familiar with, that has no online reviews, when I can get a brand new Incra for about the same amount, which is a proven fence.
> 
> ...


I have a love/hate thing with Epoxy. I love its capabilities, but it is such a mess. With the kids (me too) always breaking small things, I have a list on the white board of things that need to be epoxied and when I hit a point that I need to break the stuff out, they all get fixed at the same time.

The tinting is a great idea!


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## DocK16 (Mar 18, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *The Good the Bad and the Ugly... New Fence Arrived*
> 
> I saw an ad on craigslist for a Jointech 12" router fence positioner which is similar to the Incra LS positioner -has a lead screw, and has what Incra sells as add on - the "wonder fence" as the standard fence. the guy posted it as used, but at what Jointech is selling it NEW… I contacted the person trying to negotiate a win-win situation. that was 2 weeks ago. the jointech fence is still on craigslist. I just couldn't justify his price for a fence I'm not familiar with, that has no online reviews, when I can get a brand new Incra for about the same amount, which is a proven fence.
> 
> ...


I have the same incra fence on my router table You may not even have to fill the other hole I find 90 % of the work done with this fence is within a few inches of the bit.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *The Good the Bad and the Ugly... New Fence Arrived*
> 
> I saw an ad on craigslist for a Jointech 12" router fence positioner which is similar to the Incra LS positioner -has a lead screw, and has what Incra sells as add on - the "wonder fence" as the standard fence. the guy posted it as used, but at what Jointech is selling it NEW… I contacted the person trying to negotiate a win-win situation. that was 2 weeks ago. the jointech fence is still on craigslist. I just couldn't justify his price for a fence I'm not familiar with, that has no online reviews, when I can get a brand new Incra for about the same amount, which is a proven fence.
> 
> ...


Thanks *DocK*. I figured that would be the case in most cases. however since the other hole is above my drawers, I want to cover that to prevent dust from going in there.


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## blackcherry (Dec 7, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *The Good the Bad and the Ugly... New Fence Arrived*
> 
> I saw an ad on craigslist for a Jointech 12" router fence positioner which is similar to the Incra LS positioner -has a lead screw, and has what Incra sells as add on - the "wonder fence" as the standard fence. the guy posted it as used, but at what Jointech is selling it NEW… I contacted the person trying to negotiate a win-win situation. that was 2 weeks ago. the jointech fence is still on craigslist. I just couldn't justify his price for a fence I'm not familiar with, that has no online reviews, when I can get a brand new Incra for about the same amount, which is a proven fence.
> 
> ...


A great practice exercise by using the micro adjustment on the LS you can make a perfect blank for the extra hole…Blkcherry


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *The Good the Bad and the Ugly... New Fence Arrived*
> 
> I saw an ad on craigslist for a Jointech 12" router fence positioner which is similar to the Incra LS positioner -has a lead screw, and has what Incra sells as add on - the "wonder fence" as the standard fence. the guy posted it as used, but at what Jointech is selling it NEW… I contacted the person trying to negotiate a win-win situation. that was 2 weeks ago. the jointech fence is still on craigslist. I just couldn't justify his price for a fence I'm not familiar with, that has no online reviews, when I can get a brand new Incra for about the same amount, which is a proven fence.
> 
> ...


that would indeed be good practice. but might not be suitable this time around as the opening has rounded corners. it's made to house the insert - so I think I'll just double stick the insert to the phenolic board, and trace it with a template bit - that's gonna be my chance to screw up a phenolic board with a template bit for the 3rd time - all in this project  wish me luck…lol


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## longgone (May 5, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *The Good the Bad and the Ugly... New Fence Arrived*
> 
> I saw an ad on craigslist for a Jointech 12" router fence positioner which is similar to the Incra LS positioner -has a lead screw, and has what Incra sells as add on - the "wonder fence" as the standard fence. the guy posted it as used, but at what Jointech is selling it NEW… I contacted the person trying to negotiate a win-win situation. that was 2 weeks ago. the jointech fence is still on craigslist. I just couldn't justify his price for a fence I'm not familiar with, that has no online reviews, when I can get a brand new Incra for about the same amount, which is a proven fence.
> 
> ...


As I was looking at your tabletop with the two plate openings it gave me a thought. How about a router table with two openings, two router lifts and two routers that could be used with one LS positioner?
How many times it would be convenient to hnot have to change bits durnig a project…one router with a rail cutter and one with a stile bit, for example.
I now have 2 router tables since I purchased my LS positioner and didn't want to get rid of my old table. It is nice but takes up a lot of space. Having 2 routers in one table using just the LS positioner would make sense, not a mention a really nice sized router table instead of 2 separate ones.
That phenolic is drfinitely a very hard surface. My old router top is 3/4" solid phenolic. It was quite a chore to just route a 3/8" wide x 6" slot in it.


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## gfixler (Feb 21, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *The Good the Bad and the Ugly... New Fence Arrived*
> 
> I saw an ad on craigslist for a Jointech 12" router fence positioner which is similar to the Incra LS positioner -has a lead screw, and has what Incra sells as add on - the "wonder fence" as the standard fence. the guy posted it as used, but at what Jointech is selling it NEW… I contacted the person trying to negotiate a win-win situation. that was 2 weeks ago. the jointech fence is still on craigslist. I just couldn't justify his price for a fence I'm not familiar with, that has no online reviews, when I can get a brand new Incra for about the same amount, which is a proven fence.
> 
> ...


I feel your frustrations. I have the Woodpeckers top and the Incra positioner (package deal), and just installing the metal rails underneath, for which you must measure, mark, and predrill a bunch of holes yourself, I ended up sending my drill bit up through the surface, right near the side you work on. It of course broke a little bit of the phenolic top, so there's this ugly little dark hole on the white top with a little crater around it. After a year it still always pulls my eye to it, and I often think it's dirt I have to brush off, or something I need to pick up before I rout. I should really get some white plastic epoxy and fill it in one of these days.

And as always, I must say that I love your SketchUp models. What you made looks just like it! I want companies to hire you to make all of the things I own so I can quickly lay out all kinds of storage solutions and play in my virtual shop


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *The Good the Bad and the Ugly... New Fence Arrived*
> 
> I saw an ad on craigslist for a Jointech 12" router fence positioner which is similar to the Incra LS positioner -has a lead screw, and has what Incra sells as add on - the "wonder fence" as the standard fence. the guy posted it as used, but at what Jointech is selling it NEW… I contacted the person trying to negotiate a win-win situation. that was 2 weeks ago. the jointech fence is still on craigslist. I just couldn't justify his price for a fence I'm not familiar with, that has no online reviews, when I can get a brand new Incra for about the same amount, which is a proven fence.
> 
> ...


*Greg* - I think thats a great idea. I was toying around with this same idea some I was "forced" to have 2 openings. but my top is not large enough to house both openings and use the LS positioner for both, and also the rear opening in my case is right on top of my drawers. but the idea is a good one. since the LS positioner can stay true to both routers with it's precise repositioning capabilities- you WOULd need to lower the router bit on the rear router to let the fence ride over it, so you couldn't go back and forth between routers. but you would be able to have one router keep it's bit for a preset operation. worth putting into sketchup and see how it'll work.

*Gary* - sounds like you know exactly what I meant. I also got some tearout when I drilled for the positioner base. but my drilling tearouts are on the underside… I'll probably epoxy the upperside tearouts in times as I don't like seeing tham. you could do the same. although it doesn't sounds like it interrupting the functionality of the table.

as for the models - thanks. lately I do get to play in the virtual shop more than the real one. so it helps to have the right models. It's easier for me to replace a virtual part many times over than the real deal, and takes less time, dust, and efforts.


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## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *The Good the Bad and the Ugly... New Fence Arrived*
> 
> I saw an ad on craigslist for a Jointech 12" router fence positioner which is similar to the Incra LS positioner -has a lead screw, and has what Incra sells as add on - the "wonder fence" as the standard fence. the guy posted it as used, but at what Jointech is selling it NEW… I contacted the person trying to negotiate a win-win situation. that was 2 weeks ago. the jointech fence is still on craigslist. I just couldn't justify his price for a fence I'm not familiar with, that has no online reviews, when I can get a brand new Incra for about the same amount, which is a proven fence.
> 
> ...


Hi Sharon,

This is coming out very well. We all have those boo boo's. After all woodworking is the fine art of fixing boo boo's.

Nice of you to mention Lee Valley. It's good to hear positive things too.

Lee


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## Brad_Nailor (Jul 26, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *The Good the Bad and the Ugly... New Fence Arrived*
> 
> I saw an ad on craigslist for a Jointech 12" router fence positioner which is similar to the Incra LS positioner -has a lead screw, and has what Incra sells as add on - the "wonder fence" as the standard fence. the guy posted it as used, but at what Jointech is selling it NEW… I contacted the person trying to negotiate a win-win situation. that was 2 weeks ago. the jointech fence is still on craigslist. I just couldn't justify his price for a fence I'm not familiar with, that has no online reviews, when I can get a brand new Incra for about the same amount, which is a proven fence.
> 
> ...


Hey Purp…looking good. Superb job on the Incra model….I would love to take a close look at that!


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*Leveling the Insert - Incra Style*

Up until now I was leveling my insert (also on my TS) with blue painters tape - yeah, ghetto, but it works, cheap, and available.

When I made the order with Lee Valley last week, I ordered a pack of 10 capscrews and though I'd try to incorporate the leveling concept on the Incra made table. as I stated in my previous post- If I had to start it over, I'd just order the table top from Incra and be done with it - they are worth their price. however. since I already had my top, and from a very suitable material, I figured, I'd just do my best with it.

the Incra insert comes with 10 holes that align with the leveling screws on their table tops, and are also threaded to take socket screws. I placed the insert in place, and using a drill bit with a tight fit, punched a center hole in the table for each of the holes in the insert:









Using a forstner bit, I drilled a notch that will take the screw head. and then drilled through using a 13/64" bit which matches the #7 tap for tapping a hole for 1/4-20 screws. One of the good things about pheonlic is that it can be tapped fairly easily, and it takes the thread very well. this was my first time tapping anything, and I really like how it came out:









the screw goes inside easily, and can be screwed until it's level with the rabbet holding the insert so that it's not touching the insert. and it can be brought up 1/2" above the rabbet if needed (the rabbet is 13/32" so there is no need for that much travel).

the beauty of this system is that in order to level the insert, you only need to place a straight edge on the table, and with a screwdriver, raise each screw through the insert until it's all level. all above the table, easily, and conveniently. very cool design - thank you Incra for the idea:









It's a very nice leveling system, and even if you have your own insert, you can just drill holes in the perimeter of the insert and do the same thing.

One step closer…
Peace!


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

PurpLev said:


> *Leveling the Insert - Incra Style*
> 
> Up until now I was leveling my insert (also on my TS) with blue painters tape - yeah, ghetto, but it works, cheap, and available.
> 
> ...


Great design modifications.. Your getting ahold of the manufacturing process. You'll be making these to sel later.

Looks great Sharon


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## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Leveling the Insert - Incra Style*
> 
> Up until now I was leveling my insert (also on my TS) with blue painters tape - yeah, ghetto, but it works, cheap, and available.
> 
> ...


I will need this info for my table.. Pro-table with an Incra insert… thanks


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Leveling the Insert - Incra Style*
> 
> Up until now I was leveling my insert (also on my TS) with blue painters tape - yeah, ghetto, but it works, cheap, and available.
> 
> ...


That is pretty slick. I will have to keep this in mind when I build my version (if I can ever get a reprieve from my wife's to-do list).


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## webwood (Jul 2, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Leveling the Insert - Incra Style*
> 
> Up until now I was leveling my insert (also on my TS) with blue painters tape - yeah, ghetto, but it works, cheap, and available.
> 
> ...


what are you going to hang on that? i have a bosch 1619 and it never leaves the table


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Leveling the Insert - Incra Style*
> 
> Up until now I was leveling my insert (also on my TS) with blue painters tape - yeah, ghetto, but it works, cheap, and available.
> 
> ...


webwood. It's going to house a 1/2'' precision Triton router which will leave my Bosch free for freehand work.


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## Cher (Dec 6, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Leveling the Insert - Incra Style*
> 
> Up until now I was leveling my insert (also on my TS) with blue painters tape - yeah, ghetto, but it works, cheap, and available.
> 
> ...


Cant wait to see it finished.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Leveling the Insert - Incra Style*
> 
> Up until now I was leveling my insert (also on my TS) with blue painters tape - yeah, ghetto, but it works, cheap, and available.
> 
> ...


Thats good sharon


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## bigike (May 25, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Leveling the Insert - Incra Style*
> 
> Up until now I was leveling my insert (also on my TS) with blue painters tape - yeah, ghetto, but it works, cheap, and available.
> 
> ...


nice work,


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## RustyGoldman (Feb 7, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *Leveling the Insert - Incra Style*
> 
> Up until now I was leveling my insert (also on my TS) with blue painters tape - yeah, ghetto, but it works, cheap, and available.
> 
> ...


Another great article and guide for D.I.Y carpentry. I. As I have said many times particularly like the layout and easy reading. Thanks!


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## KathVent (Feb 21, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *Leveling the Insert - Incra Style*
> 
> Up until now I was leveling my insert (also on my TS) with blue painters tape - yeah, ghetto, but it works, cheap, and available.
> 
> ...


Great article! Though I am after information regarding preparing and repairing fascia boards! Any guidence would be highly regarded.


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