# Wooden Hinges



## DKV (Jul 18, 2011)

I have been experimenting with wooden hinges. I started out making them with a 1/4" body and 1/8" pin. Having used them on some of my boxes I have found they are bigger than I want. The picture shows hinges (maple and walnut) with 1/8" thick bodies and 1/16" pins. However I find them still too thick. I would like to get the bodies 1/16" thick and the pins 1/32". I want the beauty of wooden hinges but also subtle. Has anyone done very thin hinges and what was the outcome? I think the most difficult part is going to be the 1/32" pin. I could use brass but would like to keep with wood only. Thanks in advance.


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## HalDougherty (Jul 15, 2009)

Wood isn't going to be very stong as a 1/32" sliver. Brass is as elegant as wood and you can buy rods at any craft store. Get a threading dye and you can hold one end with pliers and thread one end so it won't drift out with the box in use.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

I'll be watching this one to see if a 1/16" wooden hinge is possible. This will be even thinner than Brit boxmaker's. Sorry I don't have any advice (just curiosity).


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## fussy (Jan 18, 2010)

You might want to track down SHIPWRIGHT's blog on wooden hinges. Subtle, beautiful, strong, ingenious, and relatively simple. I coulda kicked myself.

Steve


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## MsDebbieP (Jan 4, 2007)

and here is "a "gateway to postings tagged as hinges...


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## DKV (Jul 18, 2011)

Thanks to everyone for the help. Hal, after experimenting with 1/32 wood pins I am going with brass. I am still going to make a hinge with a "sliver" just to prove to myself I can do it but 1/32 brass seems like the way to go. I will post the results in this thread.
Don


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

bamboo 'slivers' might last longer


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## DKV (Jul 18, 2011)

Well, here's my third and last attempt. Lots of problems. I sanded a toothpick down to 1/32" (two attempts), cut the hinge wings (no problem) and then drilled the 1/32" holes (three attempts). I used my drill press and a 1/32" bit and went very, very slow but the bit wants to wander no matter how slow I went. I guess I'll just have to be happy with 1/8" thick hinges and try some of the other methods you folks were nice enough to point out. Anyway, I found out for sure that it is possible but not time effective for the results. Not sure that it would even hold together but on the smallest of boxes and then only if it was opened maybe once a year, LOL.
Don


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## pathman (Aug 2, 2016)

I think you will have better luck starting with extra long, thicker stock, 3/8 " or 1/2" , drill the hole in the center, using an undersized bit first, followed by your final diameter and then with double sided tape , sand or plane to a desired thickness watching that the hole , stays in the middle, lastly cut the slot using a 1/4 inch router bit on a table using a backer. 
You will find this a saver and less frustrating method… try it!!


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## distrbd (Sep 14, 2011)

I have feeling he(Don/DKV) is no longer with us, I pmed him a few months ago and got no reply,(he always replied my PMs). his last post was 11/26/2015.he was battling the big C.


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## DanielP (Mar 21, 2013)

I can get hinges down to 1/4 inch thick with a 1/16" piano wire pin without much difficulty. Smaller than that and little mistakes start to look like big mistakes.

In first picture I have a 3/32 blade at a 45* angle and am making a score line across each piece. I have a bunch of sized clamping blocks with a strip of clear packing tape adhered to each one. (to stop glue). I rub glue on both pieces then put a piece of piano wire in slot created by two previously cut slots. The slots are cut to a depth with just barely enough play that I will be able to pull it out the piano wire after I tighten the clamps a bit. Sometimes it is a bit difficult.

Picture two shows after glue up with 1/16" hole. Picture three is how I form the round part. I've found this way to be quite accurate with the smaller hinges. And fairly fast once you get a feel for it. Brass is somewhat soft for this but piano wire will hold firm and you can use some force.

Picture four is what they look like fit perfectly into mortices. If they are 1/8" fingers I make extra space on the outside of the hinges for trimming down.


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## DanielP (Mar 21, 2013)

After they are dry I square them up and drill through the hole to true it up.


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## DanielP (Mar 21, 2013)

Sorry, I didn't see this original post was outdated.


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

This is a good topic and worth bringing up. You have an interesting technique. After you get the hinge hole how are you cutting the fingers?


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## DanielP (Mar 21, 2013)

> This is a good topic and worth bringing up. You have an interesting technique. After you get the hinge hole how are you cutting the fingers?
> 
> - Redoak49


I use an Incra I-box but before I set it up I cut the first finger gap on my sled, cutting in a little farther than say 1/8", if that is the size fingers to be cut. Also calculate it so there will be extra left over on the other side after the last cut. I make the cut just deep enough to set down over the adjustable holder thing, but shallower than what total depth will be. After first cut with jig then come back and finish it.

This first cut would just be with the female pieces, then line up and mark male pieces. This doesn't have to be exact just be sure to leave extra for trimming.


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