# Pipe vs Parallel clamps



## Gixxerjoe04 (Jan 31, 2014)

So what's the real difference between these two types of clamps besides a pipe and metal bar and big price difference? I only have a handful of pipe clamps and some random other kinds, wanting to get a few longer ones for a table I'm wanting to build. Also with the jet clamps being half off next week, was wondering if they're worth it even though up to 40" is on sale. So what's everyone's opinions on the two types of clamps, pros cons, the big price difference has mean leaning towards just getting a bunch of different size pipe clamps for the price of a couple parallel clamps. Also, anyone use the aluminum style clamps HF sells and I saw my woodcraft is selling basically the same thing now, but surprisingly it's not that much in price difference I don't believe from the HF ones.


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## JAAune (Jan 22, 2012)

Speed.

1. Black pipe is the preferred bar stock for pipe clamps and it will leave black marks on wood if water-based glues are used. The marks have to be cleaned up afterwards or the clamps need to be kept from contacting the wood.

2. Parallel clamps have less deflection due to the bar shape which makes it easier to keep panels flat.

3. Parallel clamps have built-in, non-marring faces whereas pipe clamps need to have aftermarket pads installed.

4. Parallel clamps have a deeper throat and are less likely to slip off the wood if the surfaces aren't perfectly square.

As a professional I prefer the parallel clamps because time is at a premium. I need to get stuff clamped fast and accurately. Before going into business however, I just used pipe clamps. They are slower to use but that's not a big issue when glue-ups happen once a week.

My favorites are the Jorgenson cabinet clamps. The fiddly, locking lever on the Jet is a pain to mess with. Jorgenson clamps slide easily (and smash fingers too) which makes them easy to operate with one hand after some practice. Menards puts them on sale a couple times a year at 30-40% off.


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## smokie (Dec 29, 2012)

I've used pipe clamps for the last 5 yrs solid and off and on before that. They always seem to work out fine. Having said that. the Mrs got me 4 Jorgensen's for Christmas (can I say the "C" word?) and those are killer. I think the parallel clamps will grip lower down on your project than pipe clamps. Parallel C has a deeper throat that than Pipe c's. if your using black pipe instead of galvanized you will get a nasty reaction between the glue and the pipe. That can be over come with either masking tape on the pipe or saran wrap on the pipe or laid over the wood. If I had the bucks I would have nothing but Parallel C's…..But.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

No doubt the parallel jaw clamps have all the advantages listed above, and for they cost they should have advantages. I have a really good selection of them and wouldn't want to give them up. That said: really nice work has been (and still is) being done with pipe clamps…they work just fine.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

I use both. Black pipe and Bessey "H" style clamp heads for panel glueups, and a variety of Bessey parallel clamps for everything else.

Uniklamp is their smallest, light duty clamp. They are useful for holding corbels in place until the glue dries, but not a ton of clamping pressure. They feel more like an "F" style clamp in parallel clamp clothing.

Revo Jr. clamps are pretty good all-around shop clamps. Good clamping pressure, and a moderate sized clamp jaw. Yet they are still lightweight and easy to use. My only complaint is that the Revo Jr. uses wooden handles. I prefer the larger rubber handles to reduce hand strain. If they changed the Revo Jr. to use the full sized Revo handle, it would be just about perfect.

Revos are larger and more stout. They are good for cabinet glueups, and securing mortise and tenon joints. Clamping pressure is excellent, but they can be a little tricky to engage sometimes. Great grip with the oversized rubber handles, and the large jaw really extends the reach.

Good luck in your search.


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

When I started out, I used pipe clamps because they were fairly cheap and they work fine. However after purchasing a pair parallel jaw clamps the advantages were obvious and quickly replaced all of my pipe clamps w/ them. JAAune, pretty well spells out the advantages.


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## JimRochester (Dec 24, 2013)

I use both. The parallel clamps require no pre-glue adjustment. Just open them up, plunk down the wood, close and turn the handle. The pipe clamps need to be set the right distance first which as others have said can take a minute.

I've never had a big problem with staining the wood black. My biggest complaint about the parallel clamps, is that unlike the pipe clamps, dried glue doesn't just chip right off. In fact it's a pain to get dried glue off my Jorgenson clamps. So you'll need to constantly be taping them up, or use alternate solutions. I keep a bunch of scrap pvc piping to lay over the bar to keep it clean. Either way, IMHO, the time you save by not having to set up the clamps, you lose through the additional step. The deep parallel jaws are very nice.


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## BJODay (Jan 29, 2013)

> 1. Black pipe is the preferred bar stock for pipe clamps and it will leave black marks on wood if water-based glues are used. The marks have to be cleaned up afterwards or the clamps need to be kept from contacting the wood.


I recently added this and it reduces the chances of leaving black marks.









Sometimes it's not easy to use, (when gluing together several narrow strips), but I've had good luck with it.
BJ


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## joey502 (Mar 30, 2014)

What is the dimensions of the table top you are working on?

I ask because parallel clamps over 36" are heavy and a bit costly, not that any are cheap. You could use pipe clamps for this table and get smaller parallel clamps that would be used more often.

I have 24" and 36" Jorgensen cabinet masters and really like them. I do not think I have used a pipe inside this range since I bought the Jorgensens.a only for the reasons stated by others.


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## Gixxerjoe04 (Jan 31, 2014)

Yea after thinking about it, I'll probably get some parallel clamps that are on sale but will go with pipe clamps for the real long stuff, cant really justify spending $100 for one clamp and have to buy two of them. The table I plan on building right now will be probably 6 or 7 feet long, haven't decided 100%.


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## Tooch (Apr 6, 2013)

About 4 years ago I went clamp happy, and bought about 16 Irwin 2' clamps, and 4 4' Irwin clamps. the amount of use that I have gotten out of the 2' clamps is exponential to the amount of use that the 4' clamps received. we actually wore out a few of the 2' clamps, while the others rarely come off the rack.

+1 to buyin the smaller parallel clamps and going cheap on the longer ones. the amount of use you'll get one the smaller ones makes it a no-brainer.


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## joey502 (Mar 30, 2014)

The Jorgensen cabinet master sale mentioned above is on for the next week and a half. Good buys to be had. The HDs in my area sell the Jorgensen also and will match the price plus 10% off because it is an identical item.


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## bonesbr549 (Jan 1, 2010)

I have and use both. They have their places. I recently started pickup the bessey versions of the pipe clamps and they are great. They have great feet to stand up and how I store mine they hook nicely. Great for panels and no deflections. Also since the price of parallels have gone through the roof, a great cost alternative (not the cheap crap ones. Parallels move fast easy to use light, and great when standing panels on edge or over very long distances. I've got a couple long ones.


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## SignWave (Feb 2, 2010)

I have some 4' pipe clamps that I use when I need to glue up something big and I need strong clamping. Something like a bench top lamination. They work for clamping but they're heavy and hard to manage. But when I need them, they do the job. I got them on sale at Rockler and for the money, I cannot complain.

I'm sure that parallel clamps would be more convenient, but I really don't think that if I had the same sized parallel clamps I'd use them any more. It would really bum me out to have expensive 4' parallel clamps sitting on the rack in the corner 99% of the time.

Having some 2' parallel clamps might make sense for what I do, but I'm getting by with cheap F-clamps and cauls for now. But I'm cheap.


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## joey502 (Mar 30, 2014)

I do not own any parallel clamps longer than 36", can't see myself using longer ones enough to spend that kind of money.

The 24" parallel clamps get used on nearly every project. I like the ability to stand the glue up on the floor somewhere out of my way while it dries.


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## Gixxerjoe04 (Jan 31, 2014)

I wish they were a lot cheaper for the smaller ones, $34 for 24" or $44 for 48", if it were a dollar an inch Id be happy haha


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## builtinbkyn (Oct 29, 2015)

Galvanized pipe can be used, vs black pipe, which will eliminate the black staining. Pipe certainly deflects much less than parallel clamps, but parallel clamps usually provide a much larger clamping surface.

I use both as most probably do. It comes down to the right tool for the application. I don't think one is better than the other. JMO 

Edit: Pipe clamps can be changed with the use of different lengths of pipe, which gives them more utility and the need to purchase more clamps is diminished. Just change the pipe/head configuration.


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## CB_Cohick (Dec 22, 2014)

> I recently added this and it reduces the chances of leaving black marks.
> 
> - BJODay


That is a great tip, BJ. Thanks!


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## bridgerberdel (Dec 31, 2014)

Pipe clamp advantages:
Cheap to buy, easy to swap the heads over to different lengths of pipe for different size glue ups and they can apply a lot of pressure.

Pipe clamp disadvantages:
Round pipe is not an efficient shape for resisting bending loads, and the longer the pipe the worse the problem. By the time you have a 5' long 3/4" pipe clamp tightened up enough to pull a heavy assembly together the bow in the pipe is significant. It can be enough to bow your workpiece by bearing against it in the center. 
The fine adjustment (the screw) is at one end, the coarse adjustment (the sliding head) is at the other end. There is nothing to stop the sliding head from rotating on the pipe. If you have a helper this isn't too much trouble, but if you work alone like I mostly do it's a bit of a hassle.
Pipe clamps are heavy for their capacity.

I have a few pipe clamps, but much prefer bar clamps. Economics prevent me from populating my shop with a convenient quantity of long bar clamps, unfortunately….


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

At Menards currently, 24" clamps for $23 and 48" clamps for $30 (Jorgensen).


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## Gixxerjoe04 (Jan 31, 2014)

That's a good price, wonder if my hd would match the price since the closest Menards is an hour away.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

JimR, paste wax on the pipe helps a bunch.


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## JimRochester (Dec 24, 2013)

> That s a good price, wonder if my hd would match the price since the closest Menards is an hour away.
> 
> - Gixxerjoe04


We don't even have Menards around here. Ohio is the closest and that's two states away. I can always try I guess

Fridge, thank you for the suggestion, I'll try it.


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## JimRochester (Dec 24, 2013)

I haven't tried yet but it appears they'll price match online. It didn't say anything about having a store close by


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## joey502 (Mar 30, 2014)

> That s a good price, wonder if my hd would match the price since the closest Menards is an hour away.
> 
> - Gixxerjoe04


They should. I bought 4 more 24" at depot monday, the went 10% below the 22.99 because it is an identical item.


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## alittleoff (Nov 27, 2014)

I use galvanized electric conduit or water pipe for my pipe clamps. Which ever is cheaper. I have a lot of aluminum H F. clamps they work pretty good. Sometimes there a little hard getting them loose, but I can live with that for the price I pay. I usually stop and pick one up when I'm in the area and have a coupon.
Gerald


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

> Pipe certainly deflects much less than parallel clamps, but parallel clamps usually provide a much larger clamping surface.
> - builtinbkyn


You sure about that? My pipe clamps deflect more.


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## Gixxerjoe04 (Jan 31, 2014)

I was wondering how well those blue and aluminum HF clamps work, pretty cheap but haven't been by to pick any up recently.


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## weldoman (Oct 7, 2012)

Whose got the Jorgensen cabinet master sale going on?


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## joey502 (Mar 30, 2014)

menard's thru 12/6 I think.


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## builtinbkyn (Oct 29, 2015)

Yes I'm sure about that. A sectional tube (cylinder) handles axial stresses much better than a rectangular section. However there are variables that obviously can skew the equation. Don't know the properties of the bars used in those parallel clamps, but they certainly can bend much more easily in one direction vs the other as they are not uniform in thickness vs height. The round section maintains equal strength in all directions. It's why columns are round in section.



> Pipe certainly deflects much less than parallel clamps, but parallel clamps usually provide a much larger clamping surface.
> - builtinbkyn
> 
> You sure about that? My pipe clamps deflect more.
> ...


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## endgrainy (Mar 25, 2013)

Gixxerjoe, I have (had) a pair of the 48" Harbor Freight clamps you were asking about. Not bad for the price ($15 each.) The bar itself flexed some, but not as much as I expected. The sliding foot mechanisms is nice with the detents already in the bar.

Unfortunately, when cranking down on a glue up a few months ago, the steel head piece (casting near the screw) broke, rendering the clamp useless. Harbor Feight is Harbor Freight a.k.a. you get what you pay for.

Like several mentioned above, I have been slowly replacing my pipe clamps with Parallel clamps. Most of the parallel clamps were purchased in past Black Friday sales. I have a mix of Jet and Bessey. I like the trigger adjustment of the Jet clamps. The Bessey's seem to have the ability to generate more clamping force. I still have my pipe clamps, but use them rarely now. Usually for gluing up pieces wider than 40" inches.


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## joey502 (Mar 30, 2014)

I get more deflection from pipe clamps as well. The round section may have equal strength in all directions but, in small diameter pipe, that strength is less than the 1.175"x .375" bar on my cabinet master clamps.

I could be wrong, this is only my observation.


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## JimRochester (Dec 24, 2013)

Home Depot will price match even with no local Menards store. You have to place the order over the phone but the guy gave me the price no problem so I picked up 4 more of the 24"


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## Gixxerjoe04 (Jan 31, 2014)

I bought 6 clamps, was afraid they weren't gonna do it because the handles on Menards pics were wood while these are rubber. Saved like $85, still sucks spending $175 on 6 clamps. I got 4 48" and 2 24", plan on making some tables coming up and wanted long enough for top glue ups.


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## daddywoofdawg (Feb 1, 2014)

What I like about the pipe clamp,is the crank handle.much easier for me than the round handle.


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## joey502 (Mar 30, 2014)

> I bought 6 clamps, was afraid they weren t gonna do it because the handles on Menards pics were wood while these are rubber. Saved like $85, still sucks spending $175 on 6 clamps. I got 4 48" and 2 24", plan on making some tables coming up and wanted long enough for top glue ups.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The price does sting a bit but you will not be sorry once you use them.


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