# Yates American M-1701 Table Saw - Aftermarket fence?



## ahewitt (Oct 30, 2017)

Inheriting this 1950s Yates American M-1701 table saw and wondering if anyone has any clue if I'd be able to upgrade the fence to something more modern/reliable/accurate. I haven't found much on these saws other than on the Vintage Machinery site, so I'm looking for input. Thanks in advance


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

A lot of fence rails would interfere with the 
function of the jointer. I'm not saying you couldn't
install an aftermarket fence, but you would
either have to cut the rails off short, give
up on using the jointer or install the rails so 
they stick way out to the right.

You could make a custom fence out of wood or
80/20 extrusion.

You might want to consider selling the unit as
is to a collector and buying something with a more
modern fence.


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## AZWoody (Jan 18, 2015)

Check with Super Awesome Very Cool Tools…
Sorry, their name has always bugged me but they do all kinds of aftermarket fences that are somewhat diy and parts.
They might have something that will work for you.

Very cool saw. Yates made some very good machinery back in the day.

https://vsctools.com/shop/product-category/table-saw-fence/


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## Ajs73 (Mar 31, 2014)

I had one of those a couple years back. 
I'm pretty sure the fence rail is cast right into
the table. Pretty limited what you could do I'd think.


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## BobBlarney (Apr 17, 2015)

I have one, and I like it. I replaced the arbor and fence bearing (easy to find and replace), and had the motor serviced. It runs beautifully. The jointer table was too warped to use it, and so I removed it and the sander and replaced them with a torsion box wing. I'm going to make a router table to sit between the right side wings (they're not handles!)

The fence is unusual but will work just fine when it's set up properly. Also, it's very easy to remove it for cutting large stock. The fence should ride smoothly on the four sealed bearings upon the inclined edges of the tabletop.

1. Snug up the knurled handknob, and then check that the fence is vertical to the table. There are two screws in the front of the clamp under the handknob that hold the vertical setting.
2. Place a 3/4" bar in the miter slot - I used an aluminum extrusion - and then loosen hand knob and the four socket screws on the top of the fence, and clamp the fence to the bar.
3. Push the rear clamp up snug and tighten the socket screws.
4. Place a business card (or dollar bill) between the front clamp and edge of the table where the clamp meets the edge. The card will provide the necessary clearance for moving the fence after the handknob is loosened.
5. Push the front clamp up and tighten the socket screws.
6. Lift off the fence off, and remove the card or bill, and then put the fence on again. Test that the handknob draws the fence tight.

To move the fence, loosen the handknob and push down the center of the fence and move it with that hand. - > avoid dragging the fence by the clamping handknob because this can dealign it. Also, check for squareness if you drop it on floor.< You can spot-check for squareness with an orange plastic builders triangle square - they're usually accurate if they're not beat up.


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## BobBlarney (Apr 17, 2015)

Oh, there is a peculiar feature about this saw - the miter slots are 5/16" deep, not 3/8". For a sled, I plow a 3/4" W x 1/8" deep slot to seat the T-tracks. If you want, you can precision milled 5/16" x 3/4" x 18" bar stock (cat. # 0702-0715) at Wttool.com for $25 to make your own miter bars.

A good blade for this saw is a Freud 8-1/4" sliding mitersaw blade, a TK604 or TK904.


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## BoardButcherer (Feb 21, 2018)

What're the shortcomings of the fence that you feel the only option is to replace it? No means of cleaning it up and getting it precise again or upgrading some of the components to improve it?

I think you're gonna have better luck doing that than you would trying to put an aftermarket fence on it with that cast rail. That's a pretty big obstacle to get around and still be precise.


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## BobBlarney (Apr 17, 2015)

A pic for you. Also, I put spring washers behind the lock knobs on the height & bevel handwheels, but I'll confess that I usually don't cinch them down because the saw has very little backlash and it holds the settings. BTW, it's important to ensure that the Wixey DRO rail is parallel to the top surface.


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## Dreek (Oct 31, 2014)

If the fence can be gotten aligned parallel to the blade and slots easily enough, my inclination would be to build an "over-fence" - something that can be attached securely to the original fence to make it prettier, a bit taller, and adaptable to other goodies like sac fences, hold-downs, workpiece guides like Jess-em makes, etc. It's common practice to add such covers to inadequate fences or ones with special requirements; I don't see why it couldn't be a nice solution for you.

Here's a decent video by Bob Van ******************** that might get you started with some ideas:






Good luck!


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## BobBlarney (Apr 17, 2015)

Yep. It works for me.


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## BobBlarney (Apr 17, 2015)

> If the fence can be gotten aligned parallel to the blade and slots easily enough, my inclination would be to build an "over-fence" - something that can be attached securely to the original fence to make it prettier, a bit taller, and adaptable to other goodies like sac fences, hold-downs, workpiece guides like Jess-em makes, etc. It s common practice to add such covers to inadequate fences or ones with special requirements; I don t see why it couldn t be a nice solution for you.
> 
> Here s a decent video by Bob Van ******************** that might get you started with some ideas:
> 
> ...


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## BobBlarney (Apr 17, 2015)

Hmm, my extended comments got lost somehow.

One more point about the fence - it is pre-drilled for three 3/16" bolts for mounting sacrificial fences on either side of the metal fence.

Overall Impression:

These saws were well-designed and made from quality materials - there's not a scrap of plastic anywhere. They were assembled by human hands and made to be serviced and repaired by human hands - you won't break anything by taking it apart, and there are no exotic parts in it. I even replaced the arbor bearings without a press. I cooled the new bearings in dry ice to shrink them, and warmed the casting with a heatgun to expand it - the bearings slipped right in with fingers.

The top was carefully machined, the motors are TEC with a castiron casings and machined pulleys, and are conservatively rated powerwise. The elevation and tilt mechanisms have acme threaded screws passing through phosphor bronze pivots, and there is very little backlash such that it's not usually necessary to lock down the handwheels. Although it has an 8" blade (and less expensive than a 10"), the max depths of cut are 2-3/8" @ 90d, and 1-5/8" @45. The arbor shaft is a true 5/8" diameter, and it can accomodate a 7-1/4" blade that will still cut 2" @90d and 1-1/4" at 45d.

So if the OP decided to pass the saw on, I hope that he gave it to a friend. With a little TLC, this is an excellent compact saw for a basement shop. It will certainly outlast me.

P.S. If you take the saw apart to service it, I recommend painting the inside of the cabinet and top with white or yellow paint - that will make it much easier to see inside for adjustments or cleanings.


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## airkuld (May 5, 2018)

Sorry I can't offer any suggestions but if you go with a new fence would you consider selling your old one? I just had my Yates American saw moved from PA to WI and the movers lost the rip fence and the planer fence!


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## BobBlarney (Apr 17, 2015)

Make them search, and then pay. You might also contact the people who moved into your previous home - they might have found it, and by some miracle, have kept it around.

In the meantime, when I get downstairs, I'll see if I can make some measurements. The fence is not complex, or you may be able to fit an aftermarket fence to it.



> Sorry I can t offer any suggestions but if you go with a new fence would you consider selling your old one? I just had my Yates American saw moved from PA to WI and the movers lost the rip fence and the planer fence!
> 
> - airkuld


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## LNRR (Jan 9, 2016)

I am restoring a saw like this and have most everything. I am needing a blade guard. If anyone can help I would sure appreciate it. Also there is a 2nd fence for the joiner which I have on mine. I think I saw one of these on ebay a few months back. This fence tilts like present day joiner fences.


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## BobBlarney (Apr 17, 2015)

> I am restoring a saw like this and have most everything. I am needing a blade guard. If anyone can help I would sure appreciate it. Also there is a 2nd fence for the joiner which I have on mine. I think I saw one of these on ebay a few months back. This fence tilts like present day joiner fences.
> 
> - LNRR


Blade guards were an additional cost option for this saw, so I think it would be extremely difficult to find one. That said, they looked like they were well-designed, and I've thought about fabricating one like it. Another option would be to buy an aftermarket guard, or make one that is attached to the fence such as this: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/178994


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## LNRR (Jan 9, 2016)

I know it will be difficult to find one but I will keep looking for one. Maybe someone like you will hear about one and let me know. I need something because I'm getting on up in years. I am only interested in box making and this is a perfect saw for that. I did notice after I posted the last message that the gentleman that started this thread has a joiner guard hanging on his saw. Thats good because that also is a rare part. I find that the fence for the saw is well designed and fully adjustable with ball bearings for easy movement. Thank you Bob for your response. David


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## barb56 (Jan 17, 2019)

I am looking for a bolt that holds the blade on. Does anyone know what size it is?


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

> I am looking for a bolt that holds the blade on. Does anyone know what size it is?
> - barb56


According to the manual, it's 5/8" - 8tpi (Acme)

Cheers,
Brad


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## Flyingcorn (Feb 23, 2019)

I have this saw - given to my by my father-in-law when he could no longer use it. It is in very good shape, but the bit about the miter slots is true and they are weird. But all of that said, I get some good cuts from the was but man is it ever a dangerous saw. Every time I turn it on, the hairs on the back of my neck stand up because it has no guard.


> Oh, there is a peculiar feature about this saw - the miter slots are 5/16" deep, not 3/8". For a sled, I plow a 3/4" W x 1/8" deep slot to seat the T-tracks. If you want, you can precision milled 5/16" x 3/4" x 18" bar stock (cat. # 0702-0715) at Wttool.com for $25 to make your own miter bars.
> 
> A good blade for this saw is a Freud 8-1/4" sliding mitersaw blade, a TK604 or TK904.
> 
> - BobBlarney


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## Flyingcorn (Feb 23, 2019)

Can anyone tell me the size of the belt for the joiner? I had to have the motor rebuilt some years ago and in the process, I misplaced the belt. Any help is very much appreciated. Oh, and any tips on sharpening the blades for the joiner are also appreciated.

I was going to delete this post because I found the user manual someone had posted. I cannot remember their name but I really appreciate this. Thank you.


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## BobBlarney (Apr 17, 2015)

Here you go:

https://www.wttool.com/index/page/product/product_id/11394/category_id/15942/product_name/Acme+Hex+Nuts+%28USA%29



> I am looking for a bolt that holds the blade on. Does anyone know what size it is?
> - barb56
> 
> According to the manual, it s 5/8" - 8tpi (Acme)
> ...


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## BobBlarney (Apr 17, 2015)

I'll have a look-see. I removed the jointer because the bed was warped beyond my ability to shim it, but I have the parts packed away. I made an extension wing to replace it, since I already have a jointer.



> Can anyone tell me the size of the belt for the joiner? I had to have the motor rebuilt some years ago and in the process, I misplaced the belt. Any help is very much appreciated. Oh, and any tips on sharpening the blades for the joiner are also appreciated.
> 
> I was going to delete this post because I found the user manual someone had posted. I cannot remember their name but I really appreciate this. Thank you.
> 
> - Flyingcorn


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## BobBlarney (Apr 17, 2015)

Guards were an optional item in those days. A full cover is good, but a splitter (riving knife) is more important. I came up with a solution, and I'll try to find (or take) some pictures of how I did it. Also, the L-fence that I posted above helps in many cuts, but there is no splitter.



> I have this saw - given to my by my father-in-law when he could no longer use it. It is in very good shape, but the bit about the miter slots is true and they are weird. But all of that said, I get some good cuts from the was but man is it ever a dangerous saw. Every time I turn it on, the hairs on the back of my neck stand up because it has no guard.
> 
> Oh, there is a peculiar feature about this saw - the miter slots are 5/16" deep, not 3/8". For a sled, I plow a 3/4" W x 1/8" deep slot to seat the T-tracks. If you want, you can precision milled 5/16" x 3/4" x 18" bar stock (cat. # 0702-0715) at Wttool.com for $25 to make your own miter bars.
> 
> ...


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## Flyingcorn (Feb 23, 2019)

Okay, I need help. I am trying to put a new belt on the jointer for my M1701, and the saw + gravity is resisting. Any ideas how this should be done so that a 71 year old man doesn't become a 72 year old man before he's finished?


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## BobBlarney (Apr 17, 2015)

> Okay, I need help. I am trying to put a new belt on the jointer for my M1701, and the saw + gravity is resisting. Any ideas how this should be done so that a 71 year old man doesn t become a 72 year old man before he s finished?
> 
> - Flyingcorn


Yes indeedly that's a hefty TEC cast iron-cased motor! Let me look at mine so that I can remember how I lifted it with a stick or two and some nylon webbing. btw, did you solve the fence problem? I've been thinking about that too.


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## Flyingcorn (Feb 23, 2019)

Hi Bob,

I am not the guy with the fence problem. I was trying to put a belt on my jointer, which is, of course, behind the belt for the blade. BUT BUT BUT today, the motor stopped working. I believe I will have to pull the motor, take it somewhere and have it bench tested. WE have a rule here against cursing, right? If so, please just think of all the curse words you know and imagine me saying at least half of them.


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## BobBlarney (Apr 17, 2015)

> Hi Bob,
> 
> I am not the guy with the fence problem. I was trying to put a belt on my jointer, which is, of course, behind the belt for the blade. BUT BUT BUT today, the motor stopped working. I believe I will have to pull the motor, take it somewhere and have it bench tested. WE have a rule here against cursing, right? If so, please just think of all the curse words you know and imagine me saying at least half of them.
> 
> - Flyingcorn


Well, that's a bummer, but I wouldn't give up on it yet. That happened to me too. These saws were built ruggedly in the mid-1950s. Thes motors were fully enclosed and designed to work under severe conditions (e.g. with substandard electrical service), but 'time & moths' does dry out the lubricants.

Get a hefty wooden stick or soft mallet, and quickly give it a whack after flicking the switch to see if it starts. But don't wait for the circuit breakers to trip, or let it cook and smoke. If it starts, then it just needs a cleanup and probably new bearings because the grease is dried out.

I took my saw's motor to a small local shop just outside of Detroit (very much still a powerhouse of technical/industrial resources). They cleaned and disassembled it, checked the windings and starter mechanism, installed new bearings, and had it ready to go in a couple of weeks for ~$125 about 4-5 years ago. I couldn't replace the saw for that much, for sure.

If you can't find a shop in your area, here's where I had mine serviced. They also did very competent service for me on a 1950s DeWalt RAS motor too.

I recommend Lloyd's without any reservations.

Lloyds Electric Co.
2417 Goodrich St 
Ferndale, MI 48220

https://www.google.com/maps/place/Lloyd's+Electric+Co.,+Inc./@42.4662527,-83.1243976,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0x14498c0794aaa60b!8m2!3d42.4662527!4d-83.1243976


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## Flyingcorn (Feb 23, 2019)

Turns out I did not need to do that. After I got the motor out and was removing the capacitor to see if it was bad, I found a bad solder joint on one of the two capacitor terminals. The old guy who had repaired the motor years ago did a bad job of soldering one of the capacitor leads and today that lead gave up the ghost. I soldered it back, bench tested the motor (yipee) and now I am putting it back into the saw. I hate that I've spent two hours on a bad solder joint, but on the other hand, I am pretty happy that that's all it was.

Have a good weekend.


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## BobBlarney (Apr 17, 2015)

Glad it worked out for you.


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## BobBlarney (Apr 17, 2015)

I've come up with a splitter/guard/dust accessory.

When I replaced the bearings a couple of years ago, I made a plate that attaches to the arbor casting and that replaces a dust cover on the arbor. Unfortunately I've misplaced the sketch that shows dimensions, but here's a picture that shows that it's 10" L by 6/-1/2 D by 1/8" thick. The purpose was to make a dust shroud, but I did drill some additional holes to place a splitter. I pressed a 1/4-20 carriage bolt into a hole

I cut splitters from 0.90" aluminum, and made a shim to locate it in line with the blade. One splitter is for partial thickness cuts, and the other is taller, for locating the guard/dust collection tube. The tube is made from 2" O.D. PVC pipe, and the spring & chain mechanism keeps the guard pipe over the blade. The pipe also functions when the arbor is tilted.


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## BobBlarney (Apr 17, 2015)

Here's another pic:


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## BobBlarney (Apr 17, 2015)

Another thing about this saw:

In the Yates sales brochure, it shows an operator moving the fence with a feather, and I'd thought that was just so much 'stuff', even though I've replaced the fence's ball bearings. It turns out that it is possible to move the fence that easily.

Recently I scrubbed the entire top and the front & back ledges for the fence with Fast Orange mechanics' handcleaner and then with Purell alcohol=based cleaner using a Scotchbrite pad and towels. When I reinstalled the fence, it rolled right across the table with slight finger pressure, and it locked down more easily too. I think that the accumulated mixture of pitch and fine dust made for a lot of friction during the movement, and made it harder to set the fence too. So the advice is, clean the top and ledge regularly.


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## Killerkaw (Dec 18, 2020)

Hello all, I just joined because I see that there's a good bit of information and experience here on my recently purchased Yates American tablesaw combo. It is the same one described at the beginning of this thread. Does anybody know what the joiner belt dimensions are? I am replacing them and that one is missing. Also what is the largest blade I can fit on this machine I think the previous owner had a circular saw 7 1/4 inch on it. Any advice Would be greatly appreciated from the collective. once I get it cleaned up I'm going to post photos that seems to be in really good shape overall


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## BobBlarney (Apr 17, 2015)

Hello, congrats on picking up a well-built saw which unfortunately had a marketing 'accident' - literally. The saw was being demonstrated on live TV, and the demonstrator amputated a thumb, as the CEO of Yates was watching. The CEO was horrified and promptly stopped sales. But as we know, there are no safe machines, only mindful operators.

The manual and parts list are available on vintagemachinery.org. You might find a specification there.

It's not difficult to measure for a new belt. There are instructions available online to do that.

With respect to blades, the specification is 8 inch, which will cut to 2-3/8 at 90d. I use an 8-8-1/4" combo sliding miter saw blade Freud TK 904 or TK 604, or whatever is the current equivalent. Because of the age of the saw, I replaced the gunky/sticky arbor bearings (can write you about that procedure), which are not uncommon. Just be sure to buy >new not NOS< bearings from the USA, Japan, or Germany. Don't waste money on Chinese bearings. Ditto for the fence bearings. I also took the cast iron totally enclosed motor to a professional rebuild shop, and it cost about $125 to clean it and replace the bearings, and it runs like a champ.

Gotta go for the moment …



> Hello all, I just joined because I see that there's a good bit of information and experience here on my recently purchased Yates American tablesaw combo. It is the same one described at the beginning of this thread. Does anybody know what the joiner belt dimensions are? I am replacing them and that one is missing. Also what is the largest blade I can fit on this machine I think the previous owner had a circular saw 7 1/4 inch on it. Any advice Would be greatly appreciated from the collective. once I get it cleaned up I'm going to post photos that seems to be in really good shape overall
> 
> - Killerkaw


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## Killerkaw (Dec 18, 2020)

Thank you Bob for the information and your prompt response means a lot. I'm really looking forward to this project while I do need a table saw I wasn't looking for restoration project. This one is still an active use and is in really good shape with all the original placards and everything still in place. I am missing the table to the sander but other than that she's 100%


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## BobBlarney (Apr 17, 2015)

I think that once you have it set up, you'll find that it's a good, compact saw. The bevel & height adjustments on mine are very smooth with no backlash - I almost never cinch down the locks on the handwheels. If you look inside, you'll see why. And it was designed to be used, adjusted, and repaired by human hands with ordinary tools that you have in your garage - screwdrivers, combo wrenches, and maybe a socket set for convenience. There are no plastic bits or junky cost-cutting engineering shortcuts.



> Thank you Bob for the information and your prompt response means a lot. I m really looking forward to this project while I do need a table saw I wasn t looking for restoration project. This one is still an active use and is in really good shape with all the original placards and everything still in place. I am missing the table to the sander but other than that she s 100%
> 
> - Killerkaw


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## Killerkaw (Dec 18, 2020)

Hell, I apologize for the thread Jack but I figure it'd be nice to keep all this information about this particular saw in the same spot. Does anybody have any good photos of the planer portion of this Yates saw? And what size planer blades are you guys using? My blades hang short of the trailing Edge table by a bout 250 thousandths. I noticed the set screws underneath the assembly to presumably raise and lower it but there isn't enough adjustment in the holes to accommodate. And if I raise up the planer blade that is in the rotor only about a third of the blade is remaining pinched in the assembly


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## Killerkaw (Dec 18, 2020)

Hello all, I apologize for the thread Jack but I figure it'd be nice to keep all this information about this particular saw in the same spot. Does anybody have any good photos of the joiner portion of this Yates saw? And what size joiner blades are you guys using? My blades hang short of the trailing Edge table by a bout 250 thousandths. I noticed the set screws underneath the assembly to presumably raise and lower it but there isn't enough adjustment in the holes to accommodate. And if I raise up the planer blade that is in the rotor only about a third of the blade is remaining pinched in the assembly


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## BobBlarney (Apr 17, 2015)

Here's a few photos the cutterhead. Sorry, the second one is upside down - the photo is from 'end-on, so your can see the end of the blade.




























I removed the jointer for two reasons - 1) the table was warped a bit and I didn't want to spend time or money on it because I already have a jointer, and 2) I made a torsion box wing to make the table wider.


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## Killerkaw (Dec 18, 2020)

Hell, I apologize for the thread Jack but I figure it'd be nice to keep all this information about this particular saw in the same spot. Does anybody have any good photos of the planer portion of this Yates saw? And what size planer blades are you guys using? My blades hang short of the trailing Edge table by a bout 250 thousandths. I noticed the set screws underneath the assembly to presumably raise and lower it but there isn't enough adjustment in the holes to accommodate. And if I raise up the planer blade that is in the rotor only about a third of the blade is remaining pinched in the assembly


> Here s a few photos the cutterhead. Sorry, the second one is upside down - the photo is from end-on, so your can see the end of the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That looks exactly like the amount of reveal between the OD of the cutter head and the maximum height of the knives I had on my cutter head. But it is nowhere near the outfeed table height. And the outfeed table does not appear to be adjustable


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## Killerkaw (Dec 18, 2020)




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## Killerkaw (Dec 18, 2020)

The manual and parts list are available on vintagemachinery.org. You might find a specification there.

It's not difficult to measure for a new belt. There are instructions available online to do that.

With respect to blades, the specification is 8 inch, which will cut to 2-3/8 at 90d. I use an 8-8-1/4" combo sliding miter saw blade Freud TK 904 or TK 604, or whatever is the current equivalent. Because of the age of the saw, I replaced the gunky/sticky arbor bearings (can write you about that procedure), which are not uncommon. Just be sure to buy >new not NOS< bearings from the USA, Japan, or Germany. Don't waste money on Chinese bearings. Ditto for the fence bearings. I also took the cast iron totally enclosed motor to a professional rebuild shop, and it cost about $125 to clean it and replace the bearings, and it runs like a champ.

Gotta go for the moment …

Thanks for the info! I just downloaded the original manual….awesome!


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## BobBlarney (Apr 17, 2015)

I'll dig out the jointer's tables and other parts to see what adjustments might be possible. But Santa's workshop is busy right now.



> Hell, I apologize for the thread Jack but I figure it d be nice to keep all this information about this particular saw in the same spot. Does anybody have any good photos of the planer portion of this Yates saw? And what size planer blades are you guys using? My blades hang short of the trailing Edge table by a bout 250 thousandths. I noticed the set screws underneath the assembly to presumably raise and lower it but there isn t enough adjustment in the holes to accommodate. And if I raise up the planer blade that is in the rotor only about a third of the blade is remaining pinched in the assembly
> 
> Here s a few photos the cutterhead. Sorry, the second one is upside down - the photo is from end-on, so your can see the end of the blade.
> 
> ...


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## Killerkaw (Dec 18, 2020)

bolt holes….not thru holes (oops)


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## Killerkaw (Dec 18, 2020)




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## BobBlarney (Apr 17, 2015)

With respect to the discrepancy between the height of the cutterhead and the outfeed table, it's important to remember that the machine was designed to prevent simultaneous exposure of both the saw blade and the jointer's cutterhead. This is done by >fully< dropping the saw arbor with the elevation handwheel, which will simultaneously raise the cutterhead to the operating height. So before 'adjusting' things with tools or trying to modify the design (a questionable idea), try cleaning the elevation screw that raises and lowers the arbor assembly. I suspect that there may be sawdust caked on the threads that prevents the bronze arbor pivot from traveling the full length of the screw, and so the cutterhead can not be raised to the proper height. Try cleaning the bevel screw too, while you're at it. Also, do not lubricate the screws or other moving parts with an oil of some sort. Use something like Tri-Flow or DuPont Teflon Dry Lubricant which will not accumulate sawdust.

The cutterhead; yes, the 1/4-20 tapped holes are on the centerline. Incidentally, notice that the pulleys are machined steel, not cast potmetal - an indication of a quality-built machine.

The starred feature: That is the readout for a Wixey Digital Fence system. A key thing during installation is to set the rail perfectly parallel with the top. if that is not done, that will create a sine error in the measurement.


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## RHJO51 (Nov 30, 2018)

Hi there, these are great saws and I'm sorry I sold mine. If anyone is interested, I found the optional blade guard and will be happy to sell it to someone who can use it. Thanks - jim.


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## BobBlarney (Apr 17, 2015)

> Hi there, these are great saws and I'm sorry I sold mine. If anyone is interested, I found the optional blade guard and will be happy to sell it to someone who can use it. Thanks - jim.
> 
> - RHJO51


Jim, I'll call dibbs, assuming we can agree on a price. My saw is complete except for the bladeguard, although at the moment I have fitted a torsion box wing where the jointer-sander assembly attaches to the top. I may be downsizing on my living arrangements soon, and so I think the complete saw may be perfect for my needs. I'm glad that I took the effort, money, and time to replace the arbor and fence bearings, and have the motor professionally serviced by a guy with long experience and an appreciation of the Yate's quality. I use the saw almost every day.


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## RHJO51 (Nov 30, 2018)

Hi Bob, I forgot to post pics of the blade guard. Feel free to contact me at [email protected] BRO and actual shipping. Thanks


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## BobBlarney (Apr 17, 2015)

Jim - the "splitter bracket" (Part #2004 in the diagram) is not in the pictures. Do you have it? It runs from the front trunnion, along the left side of the blade, and to the rear behind the blade.


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