# Twin Tenon Arts and Crafts Dining Table



## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*Frame components and tabletop*

I wanted to design an arts and crafts dining table that included arched rails and twin keyed tenons. I like several of the Stickley tables, but wanted something original. I like the feel of Keven Rodel's Talesien desk, which served as inspiration for this table.










The stack of parts is growing…










Initial frame assembly…


























And the tabletop glueup…


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## BTimmons (Aug 6, 2011)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Frame components and tabletop*
> 
> I wanted to design an arts and crafts dining table that included arched rails and twin keyed tenons. I like several of the Stickley tables, but wanted something original. I like the feel of Keven Rodel's Talesien desk, which served as inspiration for this table.
> 
> ...


It's going to be a looker when you're done!


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Frame components and tabletop*
> 
> I wanted to design an arts and crafts dining table that included arched rails and twin keyed tenons. I like several of the Stickley tables, but wanted something original. I like the feel of Keven Rodel's Talesien desk, which served as inspiration for this table.
> 
> ...


Thanks Brian


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*Long Arched Rails, and Tabletop*

After pattern routing the long arched rails, it was time to turn my attention to the top. I started with 6/4 stock, all from the same log. Biscuits were placed every 6" to help with alignment and add strength. I once did an experiment with biscuits - joined two boards with biscuits (no glue) and soaked them in water for a while. I took it around to each family member to see if they could pull the boards apart-- and none could. 
I took the top over to Creative Woodworking NW in Portland, OR to have it drum sanded. They have a combination planer / drum sander that will handle 50" widths. I had it sanded at 120 and 180 grits, and it came out perfectly flat and smooth. 








The top finished out at about 1-1/4" thick, which pleases my eye. Much thicker, and it needs a massive base to visually support the top. 









That drum sander sure made my job easier.









Next up will be the breadboard ends and mounting the top.


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## joewilliams (Aug 1, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Long Arched Rails, and Tabletop*
> 
> After pattern routing the long arched rails, it was time to turn my attention to the top. I started with 6/4 stock, all from the same log. Biscuits were placed every 6" to help with alignment and add strength. I once did an experiment with biscuits - joined two boards with biscuits (no glue) and soaked them in water for a while. I took it around to each family member to see if they could pull the boards apart-- and none could.
> I took the top over to Creative Woodworking NW in Portland, OR to have it drum sanded. They have a combination planer / drum sander that will handle 50" widths. I had it sanded at 120 and 180 grits, and it came out perfectly flat and smooth.
> ...


That's coming along nicely. The figure in the top should finish out nicely too!


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## BrandonW (Apr 27, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Long Arched Rails, and Tabletop*
> 
> After pattern routing the long arched rails, it was time to turn my attention to the top. I started with 6/4 stock, all from the same log. Biscuits were placed every 6" to help with alignment and add strength. I once did an experiment with biscuits - joined two boards with biscuits (no glue) and soaked them in water for a while. I took it around to each family member to see if they could pull the boards apart-- and none could.
> I took the top over to Creative Woodworking NW in Portland, OR to have it drum sanded. They have a combination planer / drum sander that will handle 50" widths. I had it sanded at 120 and 180 grits, and it came out perfectly flat and smooth.
> ...


Absolutely beautifu, Willie. I really like the design. Can't wait to see the finished version.


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## BTimmons (Aug 6, 2011)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Long Arched Rails, and Tabletop*
> 
> After pattern routing the long arched rails, it was time to turn my attention to the top. I started with 6/4 stock, all from the same log. Biscuits were placed every 6" to help with alignment and add strength. I once did an experiment with biscuits - joined two boards with biscuits (no glue) and soaked them in water for a while. I took it around to each family member to see if they could pull the boards apart-- and none could.
> I took the top over to Creative Woodworking NW in Portland, OR to have it drum sanded. They have a combination planer / drum sander that will handle 50" widths. I had it sanded at 120 and 180 grits, and it came out perfectly flat and smooth.
> ...


Whatever it cost to run that tabletop through the drum sander was worth it. That white oak is gonna pop so nicely with some finish on it.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Long Arched Rails, and Tabletop*
> 
> After pattern routing the long arched rails, it was time to turn my attention to the top. I started with 6/4 stock, all from the same log. Biscuits were placed every 6" to help with alignment and add strength. I once did an experiment with biscuits - joined two boards with biscuits (no glue) and soaked them in water for a while. I took it around to each family member to see if they could pull the boards apart-- and none could.
> I took the top over to Creative Woodworking NW in Portland, OR to have it drum sanded. They have a combination planer / drum sander that will handle 50" widths. I had it sanded at 120 and 180 grits, and it came out perfectly flat and smooth.
> ...


Yes, that drum sander saved a good days work. I like to use it for large tabletops or projects where the grain is all running the same direction.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*Breadboard Ends *

Cutting the tenon with a router and edge guide jig. This is the setup described by Gregory Paolini. It works well, the only trouble is you have to flip the table several times while sneaking up on the final depth of cut. I recommend cutting only the first pass, then flip and check the fit. Cutting all the way to the shoulder will make it difficult to support the router. The jig is clamped in place, and stays put while you flip the top. 









Double sided jig helps align the shoulders of the tenon. I made the jig from 7" wide mdf so it would not flex while routing the tenon. 









Tenon haunches cut with a coping saw, allowing 1/4" for expansion/contraction at the outer mortises. 
A groove was routed 1-1/4" deep in the breadboard end. The deeper mortises were cut at the mortiser with a 1/2" bit. 









Breadboard ends fitted. A little chamfering and some slotted screw holes, and it should be set.


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## Michigander (Oct 11, 2011)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Breadboard Ends *
> 
> Cutting the tenon with a router and edge guide jig. This is the setup described by Gregory Paolini. It works well, the only trouble is you have to flip the table several times while sneaking up on the final depth of cut. I recommend cutting only the first pass, then flip and check the fit. Cutting all the way to the shoulder will make it difficult to support the router. The jig is clamped in place, and stays put while you flip the top.
> 
> ...


Thanks guys for some real input. I appreciate your time in answering so thoroughly!
John


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*End Assembly Glueup and Decorative Pegs*

End assembly joints are drawbored and pegged with 3/8" walnut pegs. 
















I use this pounding block to set the walnut buttons to the right depth. The buttons conceal slotted screw holes that attach the breadboard ends. 

























Next up is fitting the keyed tenons that connect the two end assemblies.


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## Philfranklin (Oct 20, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *End Assembly Glueup and Decorative Pegs*
> 
> End assembly joints are drawbored and pegged with 3/8" walnut pegs.
> 
> ...


Wow. What a great table. Make a lot of Stickley-esque pieces. About to try my hand at a dining table. Your work is exquisite.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*Keyed Tenons are Mirror-Image*

I never would have guessed that cutting 4 mortises would take all afternoon. Because the mortises are angled to match the wedges, the fitting process takes a little longer than usual. I cut the first one by hand, then decided to cut the rest at the mortiser. Cutting past the layout line on the shoulder side of the mortise will ensure the joint pulls tight. 









Keys installed.









A few taps on the wedges and the shoulders draw up tight. 









The keys were cut on the bandsaw.









When the keys are installed, they form a mirror image, and remind me of dragonfly wings.


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## JohnnyStrawberry (Jan 20, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Keyed Tenons are Mirror-Image*
> 
> I never would have guessed that cutting 4 mortises would take all afternoon. Because the mortises are angled to match the wedges, the fitting process takes a little longer than usual. I cut the first one by hand, then decided to cut the rest at the mortiser. Cutting past the layout line on the shoulder side of the mortise will ensure the joint pulls tight.
> 
> ...


Here is the way I did the angled mortises for the wedges in our bed








I had been extremely frustrated about making them although I'd already had this idea.
They were made as fast as much I had been frustrated about them. Less then ten seconds each. (normal mortise prerouted) Precise and even angles.
I can actually highly recommend a palm router - they are relatively cheap, have tons of accessories (among other seemingly useful stuff this tiltable base), they can make a fix part of a jig (for example a sliding dovetail jig).
This is a wonderful table. Thanks for sharing the build, too.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Keyed Tenons are Mirror-Image*
> 
> I never would have guessed that cutting 4 mortises would take all afternoon. Because the mortises are angled to match the wedges, the fitting process takes a little longer than usual. I cut the first one by hand, then decided to cut the rest at the mortiser. Cutting past the layout line on the shoulder side of the mortise will ensure the joint pulls tight.
> 
> ...


Johnny,
That is a great technique. I only had 4 angled mortises to make, but boy it really took some time. I might have to consider your method for my next wedged tenons. 
Thanks!


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*Finishing Touches*

Top finished









Frame assembled


















Four-inch long T30 lags secure the top timbers. 









Laminated or not? 

















By laying out my jointlines carefully, I was able to laminate some 8/4 and 5/4 together. The glueline is at the angle of the timber, so it is not visible. In addition, I laminated some thin veneers on both sides.

Back to the project page… http://lumberjocks.com/projects/71281


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## BrandonW (Apr 27, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Finishing Touches*
> 
> Top finished
> 
> ...


Looking very, very nice! What did you use to color and finish it? How are you going to attach the top?

Love the laminated pieces.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Finishing Touches*
> 
> Top finished
> 
> ...


Brandon,
The finish is Rodda #19 oil based stain and two coats of Valspar 60 sheen lacquer sprayed with HVLP. 
Next I will wax it with Howards Walnut wax. 
The top is attached with 3" T30 lags. There are 3 lags on each end assembly that screw up into the top through oversized holes. 
Thanks


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Finishing Touches*
> 
> Top finished
> 
> ...


Awesome table, Love the breadboard ends, and great finish.


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## AJswoodshop (Mar 2, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Finishing Touches*
> 
> Top finished
> 
> ...


Great job on the table!

AJ


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## Bsmith (Feb 2, 2011)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Finishing Touches*
> 
> Top finished
> 
> ...


Great job. Tell more about the angled lamination. I'm having some issues getting thick stock, but when I laminate it's very noticeable. Thanks for posting.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Finishing Touches*
> 
> Top finished
> 
> ...


Bryan,
I know what you mean about finding thick stock. I have difficulty finding 12/4 stock, and even when I get some from the sawmill, it is usually ratty and full of knots. Because these timbers have angles cut on each end, it is a perfect place to hide the glue line. However face gluing 8/4 to 5/4 leaves a notable seam on the sides. That is why I laminated 1/4" thick oak over the sides. After planing to final dimensions, the side laminate was reduced to 3/32" or so. Once the edges are eased, the jointline dissapears. 
Thanks


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## schroeder (Feb 8, 2007)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Finishing Touches*
> 
> Top finished
> 
> ...


Looking Great! - That table will be appreciated for generations to come - Nice Work!

Schroeder


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## JohnnyStrawberry (Jan 20, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Finishing Touches*
> 
> Top finished
> 
> ...


From the first pic, man you need a lumber rack… LOL
The owner of the lumber yard where I get my lumber from, told me that kiln drying oak that is thicker than 6/4 is a pain in the …kiln. They don't even keep 8/4 oak of any grade. He is over 70, phd in wood technology, and still passionate about any wood. I think I should go there more often to spend a Saturday with selecting and talking about wood. They have a pretty photo gallery about their wood on picasa. Check it out.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Finishing Touches*
> 
> Top finished
> 
> ...


Hey Johnny,
For a commercial lumberyard, thick oak is a pain. They want to turn product quickly. The problem with most kilns is they don't air dry long enough. If you put green oak in a kiln, it never ends well. 
For me, I air dry 8/4 oak for 2 years then kiln dry it myself. This way the lumber is completely dry, and is not prone to cracking or warping. The wood I buy has usually been air drying in a barn for many years, and simply needs to be finished off in the kiln.


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