# Dave's Workshop



## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*Finally a Space of My Own*

We finally got our basement a bit more organized and painted, thus giving me a space that I can actually call a workshop. The two photos below show the area I'm working in.










The oil tank is a feature because I can put drawings or notes on it with magnets. They don't blow away of get lost as fast.










The workbench is one of the first things I knocked together after we bought the house. Someday I'll probably rework it with better legs and lower it a few inches.










The 'ell' part of my shop leads past the laundry (with a shop sink-yay!) I opened up the wall, removing much of the wallboard I installed 15 years ago to create racks for long and short cut offs. Dowels are kept further along.

Shortcomings in the shop are lack of really good lighting in a few spots and lack of a dedicated circuit for electricity. I only use one tool at a time, but the lights blink when I turn on the old TS.


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## AJswoodshop (Mar 2, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Finally a Space of My Own*
> 
> We finally got our basement a bit more organized and painted, thus giving me a space that I can actually call a workshop. The two photos below show the area I'm working in.
> 
> ...


Looks like a nice place to work in. Great job!

AJ


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## robdem (Apr 7, 2011)

Dave10 said:


> *Finally a Space of My Own*
> 
> We finally got our basement a bit more organized and painted, thus giving me a space that I can actually call a workshop. The two photos below show the area I'm working in.
> 
> ...


Any space is better then no space Dave


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*The Disappearing Clamp Rack*










Wall space is a premium in my shop because of the multiple uses of the space. When I started thinking about *making clamps* I knew I would need a place to store them. I devised a way to put a clamp rack in front of my scrap stick area and hinge it so that it could be pulled up to the ceiling when I didn't need to access my longer clamps. It's raised with two pullies with the rope held taught with an old window sash weight. A clip hooks onto a screw eye at the bottom of the rack, enabling me to unhook the rope to let the rack hang for use. The rack is held to the ceiling by a hinged hook which mush be pushed back to lower the rack. It's the best system I could devise even though I know it's not perfect. Eh, it works for me.


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## DBoltz (Nov 20, 2011)

Dave10 said:


> *The Disappearing Clamp Rack*
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Great space saving idea!


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## WoodJediNTraining (Jan 10, 2011)

Dave10 said:


> *The Disappearing Clamp Rack*
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Very nice!! Great Idea..


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## TerryV (Jun 30, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *The Disappearing Clamp Rack*
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The ceiling? You still had space for it on the ceiling?? Luxury!

The clamps look good!

Terry
My wooden bowls


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## Kindlingmaker (Sep 29, 2008)

Dave10 said:


> *The Disappearing Clamp Rack*
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A clever idea and I too like your hand made clamps!


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*My Power Tools*

I thought I'd put up photos of my three bench top power tools.

*First up is my band saw:*










This band saw was the second tool i bought (around last Christmas.) While I get along with it and I like it, I'll admit that out of the box it gave me some trouble. The blade kept slowing down, grinding to a stop. I fixed that problem by changing the pulley on which the drive belt ran. It's a two speed pulley, but one doesn't work very well. Also, after I broke the blade that came with the saw, a replacement blade of the same tooth spacing, but not from Skil cuts much smoother. Right now it lives on a table in a corner. I can use it there for small jobs, but for larger pieces I carry it out and put it on a table I've got. In the future I'll make a rolling stand for it with storage drawers.

If I had to complain about this band saw, I'd say the table has a design flaw. Its fluted, but sometimes the piece you're cutting catches a piece of scrap and gets caught in the fluting.

*Drill Press:*










This was my most recent purchase. I bought it around March of this year. It's a nice little drill press and I like it. I made the simple table for it with a removable plug under the bit. Eventually I will probably cut the round hole square because square plugs are less trouble to make than round ones. Currently the drill press sits on a workmate bench. In the near future I'll be making a rolling stand for it with storage. This is one of my upcoming projects.

*Table Saw:*










This table saw was the first major purchase I made in this adventure called woodworking. For the money I had to spend, this was the best of the choices. I haven't found much to complain about this little saw. I did cut the ears off the miter slots to make sleds easier to make.


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## RCT (Feb 17, 2008)

Dave10 said:


> *My Power Tools*
> 
> I thought I'd put up photos of my three bench top power tools.
> 
> ...


Nice start vary much like how I started. Can you explain what "I did cut the ears off the miter slots" means?
The miter slots had ears?


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *My Power Tools*
> 
> I thought I'd put up photos of my three bench top power tools.
> 
> ...


RCT,

This is not a picture of my saw, but is a saw very like mine. I've put arrows pointing to what I call 'ears' a better word might be 'tab'. Anyway, I cut them off of my saw so that I could better add mods like the crosscut sled and panel sled.


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## Bubba84 (Sep 14, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *My Power Tools*
> 
> I thought I'd put up photos of my three bench top power tools.
> 
> ...


Veyr nice start Dave. Our workshop just acquired a 2 !/4 HP Skil router combo kit. I had my doubts about Skil, but I think the brand will work just fine with the kind of work we will be doing. I did not know it, but I found out that Skil actually owns Bosch. I like the collection of power tools you are collecting (and the brand). So far we have a Skil bench grinder, and now the router. Let me know how the brand holds up to leading competitors if you do not mind.
Thanks


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

Dave10 said:


> *My Power Tools*
> 
> I thought I'd put up photos of my three bench top power tools.
> 
> ...


It looks like you are off to a good start Dave. Sometimes it is better not to invest too much all at once as it is sometimes difficult to know what kind of work you will be interested in doing as you progress, and when that requires different or larger tools you won't be stuck with replacing what you have with a big loss.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *My Power Tools*
> 
> I thought I'd put up photos of my three bench top power tools.
> 
> ...


Stefang, 
Yes, that's also part of my thought, that buying better machines, that I'm not fully versed on doesn't make sense. If I had gotten some great deal on Craig's list I might not even be aware if something was missing or broken. So far though I'm only thinking that a bigger band saw might be needed as re-sawing wood would be helpful. My band saw can only re-saw wood that's 3-1/2 inch or less. Still, for what I use it for it's OK.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*Drills-Keeping Things More at Hand*










*Above*: A while ago I built this stand for my drill press. It's got a deep drawer and two shelves behind double doors. It got really tiring having to open the doors, bend over, and reach in to grab either my electric (corded drill,) or my handy hand drill. So today I put a thought into action. I looked up drill holders and found this really basic design to keep things at hand.










*Above*: A simple chunk of 2×4 with two holes drilled into it and a little cutting and I got this great way to keep two of my most used tools at hand.










*Above*: The chuck of the drill rests in a hole just a little bigger than the chuck, and the cord is held in a hole with an access slot cut to the edge. After I mounted it, I noticed all this unused space between the two holes, so I drilled a bunch of holes, a little over a quarter inch into the space. They are not through holes, so I can put various 'in use' items in them, instead of putting them on the table where they inevitably get lost in the wood chips. My hand drill also has a handy home with two keeper holes. One will keep my countersink bit handy which is used in the hand drill about 1/2 the time.










*Above*: Since I inherited an impact drill from my wife's father, I made a similar arrangement on the less accessible side of the cabinet.










*Above*: You might remember I had a sliding tray in the drawer of this cabinet. This idea just didn't work out. The drawer is either too shallow or two small, so I took the tray out and arranged my most used drill bits in there like on a shelf. From left to right I have: Spade bits, twist drills, bradpoint bits, one of those combo quick change sets, and my Forstner bits. The other cases are inherited from my dad and have extra bits that I had. (Ideally I'll check them before I go buy anything.)










*Above*: So now I have an empty shelf and a space-wasting plastic drawer set on the bottom shelf. I'm going to use these spaces by installing sliding shelves to hold other drill oriented paraphernalia like drum sanders, hole saws and the like.










*Above*: With my stand in it's usual home, you can see that my most used drills are open and the impact drill is a little less accessible, but sill available.

*Below*: So, this 'project' today has yielded a few nice hole saw plugs. *Candy*, any idea what I should SAVE these for?


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## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

Dave10 said:


> *Drills-Keeping Things More at Hand*
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Always good to make things handier, Dave. If I think of what to do with the 20 hole saw plugs *I* have I'll let you know!


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*ZCI for My Benchtop Tablesaw*










Because my table saw has one of those thin metal blade inserts, I've been thinking for quite a while how to make a zero clearance insert for my saw. I cut quite a few small or thin items and often, as might be expected, the thin cuttings fall down the slot between the insert and the blade. Only once did this actually result in something a bit startling, but I wanted to remedy the situation in any case.

At one time, I tried making a ZCI by dadoeing around a hunk of wood so that it would fit in the space. I had to hollow out in the location of the blade because on these saws the blade just barely goes below the surface of the table at its lowest position. I had to rig up a finger clamp to hold it in place, just for peace of mind, if not actually for safety's sake. Eventually that experiment broke in half, so I put my old metal insert in and continued thinking about it…

...for two years.

Last week I got an idea that might solve my problem easily and cheaply. I wasn't able to actually do it until today.










*Above*: I cut a piece of hardboard, the kind that is 1/8 inch thick to cover the throat of my blade insert (about 2 inches). I glued it on to the underside of the insert with hot melt glue. That way, If I need to make an angled cut, I can just snap it off 'easily'.










*Above*: Then I took another strip of the hardboard that I had previously cut to fit in the throat of the insert and I glued it onto the hardboard that I glued to the underside. When it was dry, I lowered my riving knife and set the insert correct side up in its place. Because of the blade situation (read above) I had to turn on the saw and then push the blade insert down from the edge nearest to me. This is probably the only remotely dangerous part. Then I turned off the saw and brought my fence over to hold the metal insert in place. Then I turned the saw back on and raised the blade up to full height.

It didn't come flying out and hit me in the eye or anything, so I think it will be OK. If you look at the photos you'll notice that the area where the riving knife goes does not have zero clearance. This is because that area of my blade insert is on a different level and it would be difficult to put a ZCI section there. Also, I'd have to manually cut the slot for the riving knife and that would be a pain.

I used the saw this way all day today and it's still working well. It's not quite as convenient as a full ZCI, but it's better than nothing at all and not so inconvenient as I rarely make miter cuts by tilting the blade.


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## nomercadies (Dec 31, 2011)

Dave10 said:


> *ZCI for My Benchtop Tablesaw*
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I am so glad you tackled this project. Why do manufacturers make saws that we can't use with a zero clearance insert? The first manufacturer that comes up with a simple way for us to do what we need to do will get the business. Until then, I think you are on to something. I had a similar problem with the blade being too close to the zero insert I made so I put a smaller circumference blade on the saw to start the cut, then finished with the original blade. However, that experiment was with an old Craftsman with a honking thick area for the insert and not one of the thin ones. I do have two other saws I would love to use your idea on.

There is a lot of down pressure on the insert making me worry about the hot glue. Wouldn't it be great to have some small flat head bolts to countersink into the metal insert? Then the smaller hardboard insert could be thicker and attached more solidly to the metal one provided. I'd try it, but I am scared I'd mess up the original insert and ruin my saw.

Thank you. I think you're on to something. Maybe others have ideas. This is the place for them.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *ZCI for My Benchtop Tablesaw*
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*Nomercadies*, If the glue lets loose on my, I'll figure something out with screws.


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## nomercadies (Dec 31, 2011)

Dave10 said:


> *ZCI for My Benchtop Tablesaw*
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I am going to find out if I can get a replacement insert for the small saw I have and try out the plan I day-dreamed about earlier. It is an inexpensive little thing I got at Home Big Box years ago. We'll see. In the time going forward, please update us on your progress. You are a wealth of information.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *ZCI for My Benchtop Tablesaw*
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*Nomercadies*, I did some looking around last night. I think I could get a spare insert for my saw for about $15.00. I'd actually consider that for when I want to tilt the blade.

As far as being a resource, I think that comes from using cheap bare bones tools and upgrading them as I go. Then again I'm not trying to make fine furniture with them, just projects. Most of the cuts on that recent table project were made with a circular saw and a straight edge. "Measure 12x cut once, pray, check the cut, rejoice (maybe)."


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*Updated Photos of My Workshop*

I'm not sure if anyone gets notified about edits and additions, but I've just updated the photos of my workshop. To see them, just click this little link. It's not spotlessly clean, but it looks better than it has in months.

-Dave


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## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Updated Photos of My Workshop*
> 
> I'm not sure if anyone gets notified about edits and additions, but I've just updated the photos of my workshop. To see them, just click this little link. It's not spotlessly clean, but it looks better than it has in months.
> 
> -Dave


Its hard when you need to share your shop space with other needs, like the family basement. Been there, done that.
Because of the dust I create, I've had to limit my woodworking space to a one car integral garage. Mrs. doesn't like saw dust in the laundry, seems the lint filter doesn't catch it all.
Your set up is pretty efficient regarding space and need to share, got just about every spare nook & cranny filled, like the paint and dowels between the joists. Nice work.
My experience with maintaining work space in the house for the shop is like your seat on the bus, once you give it up you can't get it back!


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## handsawgeek (Jul 31, 2014)

Dave10 said:


> *Updated Photos of My Workshop*
> 
> I'm not sure if anyone gets notified about edits and additions, but I've just updated the photos of my workshop. To see them, just click this little link. It's not spotlessly clean, but it looks better than it has in months.
> 
> -Dave


Great workspace. In some ways I suppose it is a good thing to have a spouse around to keep us woodworkers in check, not overstepping our bounds, or letting things get out of hand. Of course Mrs. handsawgeek doesn't have that problem with me..No Sireee… I think she likes the idea of my downsizing to hand tools. I think she was pretty happy when I sold off the tablesaw and freed up some space in the garage. 
I really like your idea of utilizing the space between some wall studs to use as a storage rack. McGyvering at it's best, says me! 
Good work!


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*Thinking About Safety - It's Not What You Think!*










I got two gift cards in my Christmas Loot this year. They were for two different stores, but things worked out. Lately I've been thinking as I do things around my shop. When I make sparks while grinding a bolt I wonder if they might somehow start a fire in the sawdust. I've wanted a second pair of safety glasses so I won't have to hunt down the one I set down. My ear plugs are starting to look dirty. So I took the cards and bought some safety gear for the shop. I got a small extinguisher, new glasses, earplugs, a first aid kit and a few dust masks that are a step up from the super cheap ones I've been using. I'm not planning on starting a fire, nor lopping off an apendage, but that's why they call them accidents. I just feel better having this equipment around.










[*Above*] I made a simple way to keep the extinguisher out of the way, yet close at hand. [*Below*] I located it near the stairs and by the boiler (the yellow arrow points to it.) That way I'll be headed for the exit either way. I know I could just run out the back through our shed, but then I'd have to go all around the outside of the house and in the front door to get to a phone or spread the alarm. Also, if I come down the steps and notice something, it's right there. (Argh! I just put that vacuum there a minute ago! It belongs in the other side of the basement.)










[*Below*] The first aid kit is appropriate for shop environments, though there's a few things I'll be adding to it, like an eye rinse cup. I located it in our laundry because it's near the sink. Most of the time you'll want to wash out a serious wound with water if not soap as well. We've kept bandages in the medicine cabinet in this room, but I wanted something more dedicated to the purpose, plus the kit can be quickly grabbed off the wall to take outside for gardening accidents and such. You can see I put the universal symbol of First Aid on it with red duct tape.










[*Below*] Up until now I've made due with safety glasses, ear plugs and a dust mask hung above my table saw. I'm going to keep the new dust masks in plastic so they don't become covered with dust!










Again, I haven't had any close call, but when you're often wielding chisels, saws, hammers and other potentially dangerous objects, powered or not. I think it's only prudent to have a few 'safety tools' around.


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

Dave10 said:


> *Thinking About Safety - It's Not What You Think!*
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A great way to spend your plastic Christmas loot!
Someone (2 people actually) cared enough to give you a gift.
The safety stuff just may help keep you around longer.
Giving them another chance to show you that they care….
That & you get even more gifts!!! ;^)


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Thinking About Safety - It's Not What You Think!*
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> A great way to spend your plastic Christmas loot!
> Someone (2 people actually) cared enough to give you a gift.
> The safety stuff just may help keep you around longer.
> Giving them another chance to show you that they care….
> ...


I like the way you think!


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## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

Dave10 said:


> *Thinking About Safety - It's Not What You Think!*
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Wisely spent, Dave!


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*My Table Saw Jigs*

I was recently asked about the jigs I use on my Skil table saw, so I thought I'd add this blog entry about the ones I've built and use.










[*Above and below*] First up is my crosscut sled. This is the first jig I built for my table saw. It's down and dirty with no frills added, no hold down t-tracks or anything. If I need a stop block I just clamp it to the back of the jig. The red strip on either side of the blade is a 'replaceable' strip I put in after the fact. Someday I'll build a replacement for this sled, perhaps designing in that replaceable insert so that the occasional 45 degree cut won't permanently destroy the bed of this jig.










[*Below*] The next pair of pictures show the 45 degree miter sled I built. If you're going to any amount of picture frame type projects this jig is one to definitely have. It saves you from resetting your miter gauge every time and you know it's already accurate.



















[*Below*] The next two shots show my spline cutting jig. It's definitely not the best but it serves. As the second picture shows I initially built this jig to straddle the fence, but a modification made that no longer possible. (I added a length of 1/8 inch steel to the fence to straighten out a bow that developed.) The jig can still be used by simply rubbing it carefully along the fence instead.



















[*Below*] this is a combination taper jig/ edge straightening jig. This is definitely not one of my best efforts, but it works for 3/4 in. stock. The 3 arms can be tightened down on any board that will fit between the blade and the edge supporting the threaded posts.










[*Below*] This is a template cutting jig. I've used it once while cutting the angled pieces for my Cranky the Crane build. I haven't used it as such, but in theory it can also be used as an auxiliary fence for cutting narrow pieces.










[*Below*] This is a mod I did with the miter gauge that came with the saw. The gauge stick was loose so I replaced it with a wooden runner that fits the miter slot better. If you plan on cutting a lot of the same angle and you need accurate, you're better off making a jig anyway. The miter gauge has no detents and I consider it loosy goosie.










[*Below*] Lastly, this is a dedicated taper jig I built for some chairs I need to make. The jig is made to create two separate angles for the legs of the chair. [More info on this jig here.]


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## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

Dave10 said:


> *My Table Saw Jigs*
> 
> I was recently asked about the jigs I use on my Skil table saw, so I thought I'd add this blog entry about the ones I've built and use.
> 
> ...


I think about got all the possibilities covered


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *My Table Saw Jigs*
> 
> I was recently asked about the jigs I use on my Skil table saw, so I thought I'd add this blog entry about the ones I've built and use.
> 
> ...





> I think about got all the possibilities covered
> 
> - NormG


I had made a tall fence, but it wasn't square. I chucked it in the scrap bin. I've also considered making an extended fence because when I rip something rather long, it's hard to align it to the fence before it gets to the blade.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*My Multipurpose Router Station*

When I *built the router table* as an extension of my table saw I had in mind using it as more than a router station. For starters it allows me to make wider rips on my table saw, but it does a few more things and I'm not done yet.










[*Above and below*] Like others of its brethren, my router station can be used with or without the fence. I have a vacuum port set in the fence as well as one for the cabinet depending on which one I think will work best.










[*Below*] The router is mounted to a wooden base plate that sits in a rectangular hole in the table. I can also take it out for changing bits or to remove it completely.



















[*Above and Below*] Before *building this base*, I simply clamped my belt sander to the bench to do sanding on smaller work. This base adds an advantage aside from the work surface. In the edge sanding position the vacuum from the router station takes away most of the resulting dust. When used in the flat on its back position, the dust extraction doesn't work very well.










[*Below*] I also *made a small disk sander* from a spare drill. This one also benefits from the vacuum in the router station. Both of these sanders can be used just clamped to a work bench if I don't want to remove the sander.










I have one more thing I want to build for this station. I plan on building a scroll saw from a spare jig saw I've got laying around. I'll get to it eventually.


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## greg48 (Nov 7, 2010)

Dave10 said:


> *My Multipurpose Router Station*
> 
> When I *built the router table* as an extension of my table saw I had in mind using it as more than a router station. For starters it allows me to make wider rips on my table saw, but it does a few more things and I'm not done yet.
> 
> ...


Looks like you are pretty self contained there about your TS. You are giving me pause to rethink my router table configurement.


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## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *My Multipurpose Router Station*
> 
> When I *built the router table* as an extension of my table saw I had in mind using it as more than a router station. For starters it allows me to make wider rips on my table saw, but it does a few more things and I'm not done yet.
> 
> ...


Nice setup, and your thinking ahead has made it all the more productive. Enjoy.


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## CharlieK (Jan 6, 2008)

Dave10 said:


> *My Multipurpose Router Station*
> 
> When I *built the router table* as an extension of my table saw I had in mind using it as more than a router station. For starters it allows me to make wider rips on my table saw, but it does a few more things and I'm not done yet.
> 
> ...


HI Dave,

I have my router table situated along side my table saw similar to the way yours is. Except my router table is not really integrated with the table saw like yours is. Mine is on wheels and just happens to fit between the rails and be at the same height as the table saw. The sanding "attachments" are pretty clever. I especially like the dual purpose of the dust collection.

Really I bought a used homemade router table and just placed it by the saw. With my set up I have a separate fence for the router. The fence on my ts is much better than the one on the router. Your set up makes me think it really is about time for me to integrate my router table with the ts. I will do it right after I finish all the other projects I am working on!

Charlie


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*Bandsaw Reset*

I wanted to finally do a review of my bandsaw, so I asked the gang here what sort of things should I be testing? After receiving the replies I set out to see what my band saw would do.

No so fast there! When I know the saw is capable of re-sawing a 2×4, but when I tried raising the blade guard to do just that, it topped out at about 3 1/4. I knew this was not right.

After a few minutes I identified the problem. The upper blade guide assembly was too far forward and was hitting the metal of the saw casing. OK, I knew things were not exactly right with my saw, but I had been putting up with things for expediency.

When I was a printer in the mom and pop shop, occasionally the press I was running would just start goofing up in some way. When this happened, instead of fighting the settings all day, making myself miserable and disappointing my employer, I would usually break the set up down, I.E. move almost everything, and set up the press from scratch. The problem usually came from what I call 'setting creep'. That's where you run a press for a long time and just keep compensating for things instead of doing things the correct way.

So I took the blade off, took the table off and removed the guide assemblies top and bottom. The rear bearings needed dome oil, but other wise were fine. I made sure the wheels were OK. The top one was running over to the outside a bit much, so I reset the tracking from scratch. I think it was skewed so much that the top edge was rubbing on the blade guard too.

Before putting it back together, I blew out the dust and checked everything. I put everything back together and grabbed a scrap piece of plywood. As a test, I cut out two more of John Heisz's push sticks. Everything cut fine. Then I grabbed a hunk of 2×3 and drew a line down its length. It re-sawed just fine. Like most folks, I do have some blade drift, about 5 degrees I guess. I put on the fence, made it parallel to the blade and managed to re-saw one side of the 2×3. I also cut off a piece of the re-sawn 2×3 and tried to cut a small circle in it. With a 1/4 inch blade I cut a circle about 1/2 inch in diameter.

Feeling really confident I grabbed a 2 foot length of 2×4 that I was saving for something else (sob) and re-sawed that too. OK, I tried to re-saw it, but apparently I didn't hold the piece down well enough and it sort of twisted as it went. Ok, but still not bad.


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## CharlieK (Jan 6, 2008)

Dave10 said:


> *Bandsaw Reset*
> 
> I wanted to finally do a review of my bandsaw, so I asked the gang here what sort of things should I be testing? After receiving the replies I set out to see what my band saw would do.
> 
> ...


Hi Dave,

How about some pictures?

Thanks,
Charlie


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Bandsaw Reset*
> 
> I wanted to finally do a review of my bandsaw, so I asked the gang here what sort of things should I be testing? After receiving the replies I set out to see what my band saw would do.
> 
> ...





> Hi Dave,
> 
> How about some pictures?
> 
> ...


Do you mean pictures of the wood I cut, or of the inside of my saw?


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## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

Dave10 said:


> *Bandsaw Reset*
> 
> I wanted to finally do a review of my bandsaw, so I asked the gang here what sort of things should I be testing? After receiving the replies I set out to see what my band saw would do.
> 
> ...





> Hi Dave,
> 
> How about some pictures?
> 
> ...


Yes!


----------



## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Bandsaw Reset*
> 
> I wanted to finally do a review of my bandsaw, so I asked the gang here what sort of things should I be testing? After receiving the replies I set out to see what my band saw would do.
> 
> ...


I'll remind you that you asked for this…










[*Above*] This is the upper guide bearing assembly of my band saw. You can see what I mean by all the little fiddly bits that require a hex key to adjust. [*Below*] Two views of the lower guide bearing assembly. All of these adjustments just remind me of the small offset presses I used to run.


----------



## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Bandsaw Reset*
> 
> I wanted to finally do a review of my bandsaw, so I asked the gang here what sort of things should I be testing? After receiving the replies I set out to see what my band saw would do.
> 
> ...












[*Above*] The lower two are the hex key and the upon end wrench that came with my band saw. The upper is the hex driver I made from a spare hex key. It will make adjustments a lot easier.


----------



## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Bandsaw Reset*
> 
> I wanted to finally do a review of my bandsaw, so I asked the gang here what sort of things should I be testing? After receiving the replies I set out to see what my band saw would do.
> 
> ...












[*Above*] These are the two push sticks I cut out of a piece of scrap plywood to test my band saw after I tuned it up. All they need is some sanding and a heel glued to the bottoms. I'm getting a collection of these, so I better start using them up on the table saw.










[*Above*] This is the 2×4 chunk that I tried to re-sw. The sawing part went fine. My holding it down on the table went awry. You can see the witness marks on the end from when I checked my table for squareness.[*Below*] This is pretty much what's left of the 2×3 that I re-sawed. I then used the fence to trim one edge from one side, then I tried cutting circles. I also tried to re-saw one of the re-sawn pieces. The larger circle was cut with the table tilted to create a sort of truncated cone. I was just playing.


----------



## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

Dave10 said:


> *Bandsaw Reset*
> 
> I wanted to finally do a review of my bandsaw, so I asked the gang here what sort of things should I be testing? After receiving the replies I set out to see what my band saw would do.
> 
> ...


Thank you.


----------



## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*Puttering Around with Loose Ends*

There's been a few things in my shop that I've had in the back of my head to do, things to improve my situation. So these last couple of days I've decided to tackle a few. They are not all pictured below.

[*Below*] Somewhere in the past I bought this Porter Cable 8 inch, variable speed grinder. I remember during my research that one complaint about it was that the goose neck light only received power when the grinder was turned on. In other words when the light was on the grinder had to be spinning. The light has its own little switch on top for when you don't want it shining on your work. Last year I took it upon myself to remedy that. I know something about electricity.

(Gibberish may follow) The light is wired so that the power goes through the switch for the grinder. I isolated the hot wire and spiced it (with solder) to the lead direct from the plug. Turned it on and the light still didn't work. My though was that the common (ground) wire was also routed through the switch. But I didn't lose any ground. The light could still be used, just only while the grinder ran. Okay, so it's super safe at least. At that time I didn't feel like taking the bottom off and rerouting the common wire.

So today I was using the grinder to help tie up another loose end and I decided that since I had it conveniently on the work table, that now would be a good time to reroute the common so the light would work without the grinder spinning away. It makes a great task light too! I isolated the common coming from the lamp and spliced it in, with solder and tape, to the common coming from the plug. Presto! It works. Other than that I think it's a great grinder.










[*Below*] These next 3 pics might be confusing. I think it's safe to say that many of our shops are not perfectly arranged. This can especially be the case when people give things to you when your space is limited. The picture shows my shop-made step stool in its new home. This is really a good place for it because often I need it in this location to get some wood off the rack or something off the shelf. In its previous location…










[*Below*] The vacuum shown here is now where the step stool used to live. I inherited it from my father in law, but I've never had a good place for it. Here I can easily pull it out to use the band saw or drill press, plus I can hook it up to the band saw for (sort of) dust collection. It's also more convenient here for… um, using as a vacuum!










[*Below*] This vacuum is the one I hook up alternately to my table saw and router station for (sort of) dust collection. I got it from my pastor who was throwing it away. Previously this vacuum lived on the far side of the gray post seen on the left. This is a much better location. This space previously hosted my collection of jigs. I put the two main ones, crosscut and panel sled, under the TS and the rest are piled in front of the vacuum. The space under the TS used to have a (failed) prototype of a single-step stool and an empty tool box I got at a yard sale over 15 years ago.










[*Below*] One of the 'non-pictured' things I did was to change the clamping jaw on one of my clamps. The photo below shows the clamp as built. I changed the screw jaw over to a block similar to the one on my latest effort. I also stripped the paint off and improved the stop block by replacing the dowel with a carriage bolt.



















[*Above*] Speaking of my latest effort. I changed the handle over on this clamp to the swing style that is seen on my original bar clamps [*Below*]. I also removed that extra block on the adjustable stop.

[*Below*] My original swing arm grip. You'll be seeing more about these bar clamps in the future.










[*Below*] The last thing I did was to do a post mortem on a sander. I bought this random orbit sander a year ago and it failed on me this week. I went out and bought a replacement, but wanted to see what the actual problem was. It looks like a plastic part responsible for the random-orbit part has worn out and broken. I may be at fault as I didn't know about the gentle guiding these sanders need to work. We'll see how the replacement lasts. Taking the sander apart, I kept the motor brushes, the cord, the sanding pad and the sealed switch. Everything else got pitched out.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Puttering Around with Loose Ends*
> 
> There's been a few things in my shop that I've had in the back of my head to do, things to improve my situation. So these last couple of days I've decided to tackle a few. They are not all pictured below.
> 
> ...


Hello Dave.

Intersting stuff there buddy,
What's the bucket and hose in front of the step stool? are you doing some moonshine on the side with fermenting wood chips?

The sander, I have a similar one and it went from a ROS to a disk sander one day so I disected much the same reason as you did and I found the bearing in the raised section had failed replaced it and it still works well today.

You may find your bearing is on the way out and is getting hot and damaging the plastic housing also.


----------



## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Puttering Around with Loose Ends*
> 
> There's been a few things in my shop that I've had in the back of my head to do, things to improve my situation. So these last couple of days I've decided to tackle a few. They are not all pictured below.
> 
> ...





> Hello Dave.
> 
> Intersting stuff there buddy,
> What s the bucket and hose in front of the step stool? are you doing some moonshine on the side with fermenting wood chips?
> ...


Hehe. The bucket and hose are how I occasionally drain rusty water from my boiler. Our hot water runs through it, so it's on year round.

The bearing is a good possibility. I smelled 'hot plastic' after it started pulling this way and that instead of just steadily sanding along. I know I gave it a real workout last year with that conference room table project.


----------



## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*It's a 'Project', but not a Project*

I've been neatening up the shop lately because a bunch of little things have built up and it was just time to adjust some stuff. It's basically a cleaning up, cleaning out and reorganizing on a small scale. Here's a few of the things I've done:

[*Below*] I keep my narrower plywood scraps above the oil tank. I went through them and weeded out the really narrow ones that I know I'll never use. The very thin plywood that I usually find as drawer bottoms I keep under my planer which is unseen to the right of the oil tank. Any larger pieces of plywood I usually store vertically in front of the tank. [Note: the wavy plywood you see rests on the last two rails I have from a bedframe and it holds up everything else.]










[*Below*] This gray shelf is where I keep some miscellaneous items such as parts for home made clamps, my church banks and seldom used tools. I have a box on the bottom shelf with a few things that were my Dad's, including one of his last pocket notebooks. Nothing earth shaking in it, but I like preserving a sample of his handwriting. The shelving was overloaded with small junk items that I was saving. Much of it went out. Then I was able to get 4 tool boxes off the floor near my table saw and put them off the concrete.










[*Below*] I went through my 'stick' storage area and got rid of the true junk, keeping the longest, cleanest pieces. I usually generate these while ripping boards to width.










[*Below*] Not sure if I ever showed my 'lumber rack' It can hold pieces 8 feet long, though much of it is currently shorter, mostly rescued wood. You can see 3 spots where I store shorter boards end in. These are between the rack supports. I'm not sure where exactly, but I saw this idea as a tip on YouTube. I still have more short boards than I have room to store. I also moved my C-clamps over here at this time.










[*Below*] So where does all the stuff go that I'm throwing out? I put it in boxes that go in a trash bag and it ends up not far from here in a landfill. It's basically pine pieces that are too small to do much with, plus there's plenty more where they came from. Much of what you see in these two boxes lived in a sort of vertical file between my drill press and band saw. I rarely ever went and grabbed anything out of it to use for anything but a stop block. I did however discover a few chunks of walnut and oak (6×6 in. at the most) which I had forgotten about. They are now in a safe place.










Now I'm tackling my catch all workbench so that it won't look so cluttered and dusty, at least for a while. ;-)


----------



## greg48 (Nov 7, 2010)

Dave10 said:


> *It's a 'Project', but not a Project*
> 
> I've been neatening up the shop lately because a bunch of little things have built up and it was just time to adjust some stuff. It's basically a cleaning up, cleaning out and reorganizing on a small scale. Here's a few of the things I've done:
> 
> ...


Dave,
I feel your pain. I've a general rule, unless it is exotic, anything less than 1 1/2" wide goes away. Seems to keep the wood scrap clutter manageable.


----------



## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

Dave10 said:


> *It's a 'Project', but not a Project*
> 
> I've been neatening up the shop lately because a bunch of little things have built up and it was just time to adjust some stuff. It's basically a cleaning up, cleaning out and reorganizing on a small scale. Here's a few of the things I've done:
> 
> ...


Dave, I applaud your ability to pare down. A skill I have a really hard time acquiring.


----------



## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *It's a 'Project', but not a Project*
> 
> I've been neatening up the shop lately because a bunch of little things have built up and it was just time to adjust some stuff. It's basically a cleaning up, cleaning out and reorganizing on a small scale. Here's a few of the things I've done:
> 
> ...


I can tolerate clutter for a while, but it gets annoying when things start falling over. Since my workshop is also an aisle I have to try and keep things clear (as possible). Even though those scraps were well out of the way, I wasn't using them at all and occasionally they would tumble out, thus fouling any hope of pulling my bandsaw out to use on larger projects. (The BS is good for small stuff in its little corner.)


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Dave10 said:


> *It's a 'Project', but not a Project*
> 
> I've been neatening up the shop lately because a bunch of little things have built up and it was just time to adjust some stuff. It's basically a cleaning up, cleaning out and reorganizing on a small scale. Here's a few of the things I've done:
> 
> ...


It is amazing how quickly things get out of control in a woodshop. I'm guilty of being a hording fool. I keep trying to get better at not saving everything. lol


----------



## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *It's a 'Project', but not a Project*
> 
> I've been neatening up the shop lately because a bunch of little things have built up and it was just time to adjust some stuff. It's basically a cleaning up, cleaning out and reorganizing on a small scale. Here's a few of the things I've done:
> 
> ...





> It is amazing how quickly things get out of control in a woodshop. I m guilty of being a hording fool. I keep trying to get better at not saving everything. lol
> 
> - Roger


Roger, you at least have the advantage of being a pen turner to use up some small pieces. I haven't open that door yet.


----------



## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

Dave10 said:


> *It's a 'Project', but not a Project*
> 
> I've been neatening up the shop lately because a bunch of little things have built up and it was just time to adjust some stuff. It's basically a cleaning up, cleaning out and reorganizing on a small scale. Here's a few of the things I've done:
> 
> ...


Congratulations, Dave. These kinds of things always help the productivity and enjoyment of your shop. They'll make a lot of difference.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


----------



## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*I'm Getting a Scroll Saw!*

For some time I've thought of trying to use one of my spare jig saws to create a scroll saw. I've obviously not been in any great hurry to do this. However, a Do It Yourselfer friend mentioned to me some time ago that he had a scroll saw he wanted to get rid of because he never used it. He mentioned it again recently so I asked him what he's take for it. He said $20, so I sealed the deal. He didn't give me the model number, but said it was an older saw and was a Dremel with 2 speeds. Looking around, I think the only Dremel scroll saw that matches is the 1671. [EDIT] It's a 1672, the difference being that the 1672 has a quick release tension knob Yahoo!

There's not a lot of info out there on this, but the little I found sounds encouraging. My friend has the manual, but it's also available online. I think this will make a good addition to my arsenal of tools. I am curious though as to how much it sold for when it was new. From the manual, it may date from 1994.


----------



## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *I'm Getting a Scroll Saw!*
> 
> For some time I've thought of trying to use one of my spare jig saws to create a scroll saw. I've obviously not been in any great hurry to do this. However, a Do It Yourselfer friend mentioned to me some time ago that he had a scroll saw he wanted to get rid of because he never used it. He mentioned it again recently so I asked him what he's take for it. He said $20, so I sealed the deal. He didn't give me the model number, but said it was an older saw and was a Dremel with 2 speeds. Looking around, I think the only Dremel scroll saw that matches is the 1671. [EDIT] It's a 1672, the difference being that the 1672 has a quick release tension knob Yahoo!
> 
> There's not a lot of info out there on this, but the little I found sounds encouraging. My friend has the manual, but it's also available online. I think this will make a good addition to my arsenal of tools. I am curious though as to how much it sold for when it was new. From the manual, it may date from 1994.


Adding pictures. I just got this from my friend today. Turns out it's a 1672, not 1671. The difference seems to be that it has a quick release blade tension clamp!




























A look at the connection between the arm and mortor.










This is the only listing I found to get an idea of how much this saw cost when new [link]


----------



## CharlieK (Jan 6, 2008)

Dave10 said:


> *I'm Getting a Scroll Saw!*
> 
> For some time I've thought of trying to use one of my spare jig saws to create a scroll saw. I've obviously not been in any great hurry to do this. However, a Do It Yourselfer friend mentioned to me some time ago that he had a scroll saw he wanted to get rid of because he never used it. He mentioned it again recently so I asked him what he's take for it. He said $20, so I sealed the deal. He didn't give me the model number, but said it was an older saw and was a Dremel with 2 speeds. Looking around, I think the only Dremel scroll saw that matches is the 1671. [EDIT] It's a 1672, the difference being that the 1672 has a quick release tension knob Yahoo!
> 
> There's not a lot of info out there on this, but the little I found sounds encouraging. My friend has the manual, but it's also available online. I think this will make a good addition to my arsenal of tools. I am curious though as to how much it sold for when it was new. From the manual, it may date from 1994.


That was a real bargain! I have one that is very similar to that one and I think I paid a little over $200.


----------



## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *I'm Getting a Scroll Saw!*
> 
> For some time I've thought of trying to use one of my spare jig saws to create a scroll saw. I've obviously not been in any great hurry to do this. However, a Do It Yourselfer friend mentioned to me some time ago that he had a scroll saw he wanted to get rid of because he never used it. He mentioned it again recently so I asked him what he's take for it. He said $20, so I sealed the deal. He didn't give me the model number, but said it was an older saw and was a Dremel with 2 speeds. Looking around, I think the only Dremel scroll saw that matches is the 1671. [EDIT] It's a 1672, the difference being that the 1672 has a quick release tension knob Yahoo!
> 
> There's not a lot of info out there on this, but the little I found sounds encouraging. My friend has the manual, but it's also available online. I think this will make a good addition to my arsenal of tools. I am curious though as to how much it sold for when it was new. From the manual, it may date from 1994.





> That was a real bargain! I have one that is very similar to that one and I think I paid a little over $200.
> 
> - CharlieK


Looking at how mine is built, believe it. The table is cast aluminum, not stamped. I'm very happy with it, even though I haven't cut with it yet. I have faith. I even spent some time locating the adapters for pinless blades (at the price wanted to pay). All I need is to find out what size hex T-wrench I need and get one. This should be fun.


----------



## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

Dave10 said:


> *I'm Getting a Scroll Saw!*
> 
> For some time I've thought of trying to use one of my spare jig saws to create a scroll saw. I've obviously not been in any great hurry to do this. However, a Do It Yourselfer friend mentioned to me some time ago that he had a scroll saw he wanted to get rid of because he never used it. He mentioned it again recently so I asked him what he's take for it. He said $20, so I sealed the deal. He didn't give me the model number, but said it was an older saw and was a Dremel with 2 speeds. Looking around, I think the only Dremel scroll saw that matches is the 1671. [EDIT] It's a 1672, the difference being that the 1672 has a quick release tension knob Yahoo!
> 
> There's not a lot of info out there on this, but the little I found sounds encouraging. My friend has the manual, but it's also available online. I think this will make a good addition to my arsenal of tools. I am curious though as to how much it sold for when it was new. From the manual, it may date from 1994.


Dave,

It seems you made a good investment. Now have fun!

L/W


----------



## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

Dave10 said:


> *I'm Getting a Scroll Saw!*
> 
> For some time I've thought of trying to use one of my spare jig saws to create a scroll saw. I've obviously not been in any great hurry to do this. However, a Do It Yourselfer friend mentioned to me some time ago that he had a scroll saw he wanted to get rid of because he never used it. He mentioned it again recently so I asked him what he's take for it. He said $20, so I sealed the deal. He didn't give me the model number, but said it was an older saw and was a Dremel with 2 speeds. Looking around, I think the only Dremel scroll saw that matches is the 1671. [EDIT] It's a 1672, the difference being that the 1672 has a quick release tension knob Yahoo!
> 
> There's not a lot of info out there on this, but the little I found sounds encouraging. My friend has the manual, but it's also available online. I think this will make a good addition to my arsenal of tools. I am curious though as to how much it sold for when it was new. From the manual, it may date from 1994.


Congratulations, Dave! Lots of great scrollsaw patterns out there. Fellow LJs, Steve Good (most are free) and Sheila Landry (she changes out a different free pattern every so often) sites come to mind. Looking forward to seeing what you do with it!


----------



## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *I'm Getting a Scroll Saw!*
> 
> For some time I've thought of trying to use one of my spare jig saws to create a scroll saw. I've obviously not been in any great hurry to do this. However, a Do It Yourselfer friend mentioned to me some time ago that he had a scroll saw he wanted to get rid of because he never used it. He mentioned it again recently so I asked him what he's take for it. He said $20, so I sealed the deal. He didn't give me the model number, but said it was an older saw and was a Dremel with 2 speeds. Looking around, I think the only Dremel scroll saw that matches is the 1671. [EDIT] It's a 1672, the difference being that the 1672 has a quick release tension knob Yahoo!
> 
> There's not a lot of info out there on this, but the little I found sounds encouraging. My friend has the manual, but it's also available online. I think this will make a good addition to my arsenal of tools. I am curious though as to how much it sold for when it was new. From the manual, it may date from 1994.





> Congratulations, Dave! Lots of great scrollsaw patterns out there. Fellow LJs, Steve Good (most are free) and Sheila Landry s (she changes out a different free pattern every so often) sites come to mind. Looking forward to seeing what you do with it!
> 
> - CFrye


I could make At Home America type stuff in Esperanto!


----------



## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

Dave10 said:


> *I'm Getting a Scroll Saw!*
> 
> For some time I've thought of trying to use one of my spare jig saws to create a scroll saw. I've obviously not been in any great hurry to do this. However, a Do It Yourselfer friend mentioned to me some time ago that he had a scroll saw he wanted to get rid of because he never used it. He mentioned it again recently so I asked him what he's take for it. He said $20, so I sealed the deal. He didn't give me the model number, but said it was an older saw and was a Dremel with 2 speeds. Looking around, I think the only Dremel scroll saw that matches is the 1671. [EDIT] It's a 1672, the difference being that the 1672 has a quick release tension knob Yahoo!
> 
> There's not a lot of info out there on this, but the little I found sounds encouraging. My friend has the manual, but it's also available online. I think this will make a good addition to my arsenal of tools. I am curious though as to how much it sold for when it was new. From the manual, it may date from 1994.





> Congratulations, Dave! Lots of great scrollsaw patterns out there. Fellow LJs, Steve Good (most are free) and Sheila Landry s (she changes out a different free pattern every so often) sites come to mind. Looking forward to seeing what you do with it!
> 
> - CFrye
> 
> ...


Yes, you could!


----------



## Nduetime (Jul 25, 2015)

Dave10 said:


> *I'm Getting a Scroll Saw!*
> 
> For some time I've thought of trying to use one of my spare jig saws to create a scroll saw. I've obviously not been in any great hurry to do this. However, a Do It Yourselfer friend mentioned to me some time ago that he had a scroll saw he wanted to get rid of because he never used it. He mentioned it again recently so I asked him what he's take for it. He said $20, so I sealed the deal. He didn't give me the model number, but said it was an older saw and was a Dremel with 2 speeds. Looking around, I think the only Dremel scroll saw that matches is the 1671. [EDIT] It's a 1672, the difference being that the 1672 has a quick release tension knob Yahoo!
> 
> There's not a lot of info out there on this, but the little I found sounds encouraging. My friend has the manual, but it's also available online. I think this will make a good addition to my arsenal of tools. I am curious though as to how much it sold for when it was new. From the manual, it may date from 1994.


May I ask where you managed to locate the painless adapter from? I've revently acquired the same model and it appears as though mine didn't come with the optional adapter. I've searched eBay and google but haven't been even able to find any.


----------



## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *I'm Getting a Scroll Saw!*
> 
> For some time I've thought of trying to use one of my spare jig saws to create a scroll saw. I've obviously not been in any great hurry to do this. However, a Do It Yourselfer friend mentioned to me some time ago that he had a scroll saw he wanted to get rid of because he never used it. He mentioned it again recently so I asked him what he's take for it. He said $20, so I sealed the deal. He didn't give me the model number, but said it was an older saw and was a Dremel with 2 speeds. Looking around, I think the only Dremel scroll saw that matches is the 1671. [EDIT] It's a 1672, the difference being that the 1672 has a quick release tension knob Yahoo!
> 
> There's not a lot of info out there on this, but the little I found sounds encouraging. My friend has the manual, but it's also available online. I think this will make a good addition to my arsenal of tools. I am curious though as to how much it sold for when it was new. From the manual, it may date from 1994.





> May I ask where you managed to locate the painless adapter from? I've revently acquired the same model and it appears as though mine didn't come with the optional adapter. I've searched eBay and google but haven't been even able to find any.
> 
> - Nduetime


I'm not sure where I got it, but looking around, I think it may be a Bosch adapter which works on my saw. I know for sure I didn't pay more than $10 for it.

You threw me with the word 'painless adapter' above until I reread all my posts and saw that you must have meant 'pinless'. Sorry I'm not much help, but it was 3 years ago.


----------



## Nduetime (Jul 25, 2015)

Dave10 said:


> *I'm Getting a Scroll Saw!*
> 
> For some time I've thought of trying to use one of my spare jig saws to create a scroll saw. I've obviously not been in any great hurry to do this. However, a Do It Yourselfer friend mentioned to me some time ago that he had a scroll saw he wanted to get rid of because he never used it. He mentioned it again recently so I asked him what he's take for it. He said $20, so I sealed the deal. He didn't give me the model number, but said it was an older saw and was a Dremel with 2 speeds. Looking around, I think the only Dremel scroll saw that matches is the 1671. [EDIT] It's a 1672, the difference being that the 1672 has a quick release tension knob Yahoo!
> 
> There's not a lot of info out there on this, but the little I found sounds encouraging. My friend has the manual, but it's also available online. I think this will make a good addition to my arsenal of tools. I am curious though as to how much it sold for when it was new. From the manual, it may date from 1994.


Oh my….autocorrect!

I was thinking of using something like this…
https://www.ereplacementparts.com/blade-holder-p-34816.html

Says it's used for something else but figured it was worth a shot.


----------



## Nduetime (Jul 25, 2015)

Dave10 said:


> *I'm Getting a Scroll Saw!*
> 
> For some time I've thought of trying to use one of my spare jig saws to create a scroll saw. I've obviously not been in any great hurry to do this. However, a Do It Yourselfer friend mentioned to me some time ago that he had a scroll saw he wanted to get rid of because he never used it. He mentioned it again recently so I asked him what he's take for it. He said $20, so I sealed the deal. He didn't give me the model number, but said it was an older saw and was a Dremel with 2 speeds. Looking around, I think the only Dremel scroll saw that matches is the 1671. [EDIT] It's a 1672, the difference being that the 1672 has a quick release tension knob Yahoo!
> 
> There's not a lot of info out there on this, but the little I found sounds encouraging. My friend has the manual, but it's also available online. I think this will make a good addition to my arsenal of tools. I am curious though as to how much it sold for when it was new. From the manual, it may date from 1994.


Double post, sorry.


----------



## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *I'm Getting a Scroll Saw!*
> 
> For some time I've thought of trying to use one of my spare jig saws to create a scroll saw. I've obviously not been in any great hurry to do this. However, a Do It Yourselfer friend mentioned to me some time ago that he had a scroll saw he wanted to get rid of because he never used it. He mentioned it again recently so I asked him what he's take for it. He said $20, so I sealed the deal. He didn't give me the model number, but said it was an older saw and was a Dremel with 2 speeds. Looking around, I think the only Dremel scroll saw that matches is the 1671. [EDIT] It's a 1672, the difference being that the 1672 has a quick release tension knob Yahoo!
> 
> There's not a lot of info out there on this, but the little I found sounds encouraging. My friend has the manual, but it's also available online. I think this will make a good addition to my arsenal of tools. I am curious though as to how much it sold for when it was new. From the manual, it may date from 1994.





> Oh my….autocorrect!
> 
> I was thinking of using something like this…
> https://www.ereplacementparts.com/blade-holder-p-34816.html
> ...


That looks like the one I got, and the price looks right for my cheap-skate tendencies.


----------



## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*T-Wrench Handle*










"Necessity is the mother of invention" as the old saw goes. When I was researching the scroll saw that I got, I found that the special T-wrench was missing. So I looked it up and found that it is metric and 3.5mm. 3.5mm is not really a standard size as I found. They aren't included in sets of hex wrenches and to buy a T-wrench of that kind would cost more than I'm willing to spend.

Then I just looked online for a normal Allen key that was 3.5mm and found that while not pricey were still a bit more than ones found in sets.

Today I was just about to click the 'buy' button on one of these on eBay because the description said it was about 4 inches long (And thus could put it in my own handle if I wished.) It occurred to me that I should look in my jar of miscellaneous hex wrenches first.

I had not one, but two 3.5mm hex wrenches and they were longer than normal, 4 inches. I double checked that they fit the required screw on my scroll saw and they were perfect.

So I grabbed a scrap chunk of oak from my hardwood scrap bin. (Yes I have one of those now!) Then I cut it to approximate size on the table saw, drilled a hole on the center and used the drill press to do most of the work of creating a mortise for the L part of the wrench. I had to clean it up with a small chisel.

Then I ran that part of the handle over the Table saw to create a dado big enough to accept a piece of bamboo skewer. I inserted the wrench, glued in the skewer piece and let the glue dry.

It's possible I should have used epoxy because the wrench rocks a bit, but I don't mind.

After the glue set up, I planed the skewer flush with the top of the handle and narrowed and shaped the handle. Then I sanded it and coated it with boiled linseed oil.

Much cheaper than buying one and it has fancy bamboo inlay!


----------



## TheWoodRaccoon (Nov 9, 2015)

Dave10 said:


> *T-Wrench Handle*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That's clever! Nice work!


----------



## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *T-Wrench Handle*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


What saw you got Dave? I had the same problem when I purchased mine… it was missing the wrench, the clamp lock pin as well as the throat plate - so I made my own.

I did a similar design - drill the hole and then used a dremel to cut out the slot for the wrench tail to fit in… after inserting the wrench, I just filled the slot up with epoxy which then got sanded smooth after curing and then the whole thing got wrapped with some tape to make it a bit easier on the hands. The picture shows my second version. The first version was the same design, but I used glue instead of epoxy, which didn't hold up well and eventually worked it's way loose. It takes quite a bit of torque with use, so it needs to be held in pretty snug. The lock pin I made was just an appropriate sized chop stick glued into a hardwood block, and the throat plate was made using recycled laundry detergent bottles (HDPE).










Cheers,
Brad


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *T-Wrench Handle*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


It's a Dremel 1672. I had to locate and buy the pinless blade adapters for it. I don't yet have any pinless blades, but I figure I will some day. The only other thing I might look for is the quick change adapter.


----------



## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

Dave10 said:


> *T-Wrench Handle*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Nicely made tool, Dave!


----------



## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *T-Wrench Handle*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The making of this tool is a prime example of why woodworking is no popular, it provides the opportunity to be creative while exercising our problem solving skills.
This example also proves you really do need to hoard all those projects cutoffs, because you'll never know when one will come in handy, no matter how small.


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## TheWoodRaccoon (Nov 9, 2015)

Dave10 said:


> *T-Wrench Handle*
> 
> 
> 
> ...





> The making of this tool is a prime example of why woodworking is no popular….
> 
> - Oldtool


Don't you mean "So" popular?


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## TheWoodRaccoon (Nov 9, 2015)

Dave10 said:


> *T-Wrench Handle*
> 
> 
> 
> ...





> What saw you got Dave? I had the same problem when I purchased mine… it was missing the wrench, the clamp lock pin as well as the throat plate - so I made my own.
> 
> I did a similar design - drill the hole and then used a dremel to cut out the slot for the wrench tail to fit in… after inserting the wrench, I just filled the slot up with epoxy which then got sanded smooth after curing and then the whole thing got wrapped with some tape to make it a bit easier on the hands. The picture shows my second version. The first version was the same design, but I used glue instead of epoxy, which didn t hold up well and eventually worked it s way loose. It takes quite a bit of torque with use, so it needs to be held in pretty snug. The lock pin I made was just an appropriate sized chop stick glued into a hardwood block, and the throat plate was made using recycled laundry detergent bottles (HDPE).
> 
> ...


That's interesting! I've dabbled in HDPE melting, but only for making slingshots. I make plates as thick as 1 inch. How thick is that insert plate? I would think it has to be at least 1/4 inch to prevent deflection.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*I improved my tapering jig*










Over a year ago I posted this blog entry [link] about the jigs I've made for my table saw. Even then I knew the tapering jig pictured above was in need of augmentation. At the time it was adequate, but every time I used it…

This week I decided to just take the time and fix the old tapering jig up so that wouldn't feel so much on the edge when I use it. The main reason though is that I want to use it more for putting a nice clean edge on boards that are not straight. The wimpy hold downs I was using were hard to adjust and were not good for boards of differing thickness.

[*Below*] I took a note from a video or two on Youtube and made new and improved hold down fingers.










[*Below*] The black knob is just a hole saw cut out (which I saved from a previous project) with a T-nut driven into it. If it ever falls out, I'll glue it in with epoxy.










[*Below*] In this shot you can see the slot I made in the fingers. I made it by drilling two holes spaced about 1/4 inch apart. Then I removed the wood between them with a sharp chisel. Pretty much I just pared it clean, no mallet required.










[*Below*] Each finger goes on a length of 1/4 inch 20 tpi threaded rod. A short length of dowel goes on over it to help the knob bear down without skewing. Probably a knob with a hemispherical bottom or even a knob that was a big sphere would accomplish the same thing, but this was easier.










[*Below*] Here you can see how the finger can grab boards that are thick as well as thin. In its previous incarnation, the jig was really only good for 3/4 inch stock.










[*Below*] And here's the completed, revamped jig. Now where's that wood…


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## Mean_Dean (Oct 13, 2009)

Dave10 said:


> *I improved my tapering jig*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Big improvement over the previous configuration!


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *I improved my tapering jig*
> 
> 
> 
> ...





> Big improvement over the previous configuration!
> 
> - Mean_Dean


you said it, bro!


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*Small Picture Frame Clamping Jig*

[Legebla en Esperanto]



















[*Above*] Typical example of Mother Necessity. I needed a way to glue up a small live-edge picture frame plus 5 of it's sisters sometime down the line. The live edge made it impossible to use a strap clamp or even a rubber band. So after thinking about it, I came up with this 'simple' clamping jig. It consists of a pair of cross pieces, the height and width of which match the height and width of the intended frame size. The four cut out corners of one cross piece have butt jointed corners glued to them and a saw kerf cut into the two outside edges of each corner piece. [*Below*] Here the frame pieces are glued and placed in the jig.










[*Below*] Now the top piece is put on to hold down the frame. (not shown) This is held down with a thick wooden washer and a wing nut (because the thread on the carriage bolt I used starts higher.)










[*Below*] Then a rubber band is stretched along the corners of the jig using the kerfs to hold it in place. At this point the frame pieces can be moved around for a best fit and the wing nut tightened down for firm pressure keeping the frame flat.



















I used spray lacquer on the corners to hopefully keep them from sticking to the frame. So far it's worked fine.


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## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

Dave10 said:


> *Small Picture Frame Clamping Jig*
> 
> [Legebla en Esperanto]
> 
> ...


Nicely done.
I've seen it done with nylon straps but never with the top holder downer great idea, add a little wax under the jig so it won't be glued to the frame and your all set.
I like it! I like it! LOL


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*Handy Mini Multi-Miter Sled*



















This is one of those jigs I've thought about for a while and finally decided to just do it. It's down and dirty, focused very much on function and not at all on prettiness. Originally I planned to make a dedicated 90 degree miter gauge since the one for my saw is pretty unreliable. It works, but-well, you know.

After I got the 90 degree part finished it occurred to me to try some added functionality. On the board behind the fence I added two fences, one at 45 degrees and the other at 30 degrees. I won't guarantee they are 100% accurate, but they are darn close.

I did use the 45 degree to cut a quick, square picture frame, a small one. The miters look about as good as any I cut, even with my dedicated miter sled. After I finish milling up the frame, I'll post it as a project. [link]

There may not be a lot of use for a 30 degree angle, but in the past made a few coat hangers and I cut them at 30 degrees. It will be a bit easier doing it with this than with my wonky Cheap-A miter gauge.

[*Below*] Mandatory glue up photo.










[Fun Fact: The Esperanto term for miter jig is: bevel-helpilo.]


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## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Handy Mini Multi-Miter Sled*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Nice title, say that three times fast.
As for the sled, great idea to add the angle cuts on the back, makes it very useful three ways. Nifty.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Handy Mini Multi-Miter Sled*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


See the test project for this jig here [link].


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## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

Dave10 said:


> *Handy Mini Multi-Miter Sled*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That sure does make a nice compact miter jig. It's a very handy and practical design.

I'm going to mark the post with my favorites so I can come back to it. I like this compact design.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Handy Mini Multi-Miter Sled*
> 
> 
> 
> ...





> That sure does make a nice compact miter jig. It s a very handy and practical design.
> 
> I m going to mark the post with my favorites so I can come back to it. I like this compact design.
> 
> ...


Thanks. It's one of those things that was kicking around in my head for months.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*Storing a set of cheapo stamped wrenches*

This is just one of those things. Some time ago I began to lament not having grabbed my dad's set of stamped wrenches. There are times when you just need a thin wrench to get into a space and hold a nut or even turn it a bit. I eventually found a set on the smaller end on eBay to compliment my 3 Handy Andy wrenches from my childhood.

Very recently I found this set in our dollar store. That's how cheap these are. I bought them and brought them home. Now I needed a way to store them out of the way, but close at hand just in case.










I drilled a small hole (1/8 inch) right into the 'C' in China on each wrench.










Then I sanded off the burr.










Then I hammered a finishing nail into a convenient stud and hung the wrenches on it. The hole is off center, so the weight of the long end will keep them hanging pretty straight. I don't expect to use these often but the price was not to be argued with.


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## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

Dave10 said:


> *Storing a set of cheapo stamped wrenches*
> 
> This is just one of those things. Some time ago I began to lament not having grabbed my dad's set of stamped wrenches. There are times when you just need a thin wrench to get into a space and hold a nut or even turn it a bit. I eventually found a set on the smaller end on eBay to compliment my 3 Handy Andy wrenches from my childhood.
> 
> ...


What a great bfind, you never know whast you may find in the dollar stores. great idea to offset the holes


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Storing a set of cheapo stamped wrenches*
> 
> This is just one of those things. Some time ago I began to lament not having grabbed my dad's set of stamped wrenches. There are times when you just need a thin wrench to get into a space and hold a nut or even turn it a bit. I eventually found a set on the smaller end on eBay to compliment my 3 Handy Andy wrenches from my childhood.
> 
> ...





> What a great bfind, you never know whast you may find in the dollar stores. great idea to offset the holes
> 
> - NormG


Another benefit is that hanging these wrenches caused me to look through my other flat wrenches and hang them as well. My other ones were box end/open end, so I just hung them from the box end on a separate nail.

My 3 Handy Andy wrenches, still perfectly usable, I hung by two parallel nails as I didn't want to spoil antiques from my childhood.


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## nomercadies (Dec 31, 2011)

Dave10 said:


> *Storing a set of cheapo stamped wrenches*
> 
> This is just one of those things. Some time ago I began to lament not having grabbed my dad's set of stamped wrenches. There are times when you just need a thin wrench to get into a space and hold a nut or even turn it a bit. I eventually found a set on the smaller end on eBay to compliment my 3 Handy Andy wrenches from my childhood.
> 
> ...


"antiques from my childhood" 
And so it goes.


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## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

Dave10 said:


> *Storing a set of cheapo stamped wrenches*
> 
> This is just one of those things. Some time ago I began to lament not having grabbed my dad's set of stamped wrenches. There are times when you just need a thin wrench to get into a space and hold a nut or even turn it a bit. I eventually found a set on the smaller end on eBay to compliment my 3 Handy Andy wrenches from my childhood.
> 
> ...


Never know when you'll need a super thin wrench which is not often but when you need one nothing else will get er done.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Storing a set of cheapo stamped wrenches*
> 
> This is just one of those things. Some time ago I began to lament not having grabbed my dad's set of stamped wrenches. There are times when you just need a thin wrench to get into a space and hold a nut or even turn it a bit. I eventually found a set on the smaller end on eBay to compliment my 3 Handy Andy wrenches from my childhood.
> 
> ...





> Never know when you ll need a super thin wrench which is not often but when you need one nothing else will get er done.
> 
> - htl


And for something that I won't often use, a buck is far better than what they charge for 'bicycle' wrenches!


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## Bluepine38 (Dec 14, 2009)

Dave10 said:


> *Storing a set of cheapo stamped wrenches*
> 
> This is just one of those things. Some time ago I began to lament not having grabbed my dad's set of stamped wrenches. There are times when you just need a thin wrench to get into a space and hold a nut or even turn it a bit. I eventually found a set on the smaller end on eBay to compliment my 3 Handy Andy wrenches from my childhood.
> 
> ...


Having kept all my own bicycles running from the time I made my first one from spare parts as a kid, those
Park and other brand bicycle wrenches have earned their cost and then some. Although the costs of the 
bicycles have gone up considerably. I could have bought a real good table saw for what I paid for my
Bianchi San Remo. They used to make good stamped wrenches that were sold in roll pouches as ignition
wrenches. They came with a special screwdriver that held the machine screws you used on the points and
condenser on the older cars. I believe is has been more than 10 years since I installed a set of points and
adjusted them on a old Bronco we put a hot rod 351 Cleveland in. Did not like stretching over the engine
on GMCs engines so we usually put electronic ignition in them. Kind of wandered off the topic, sorry did
not mean to hijack the thread.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Storing a set of cheapo stamped wrenches*
> 
> This is just one of those things. Some time ago I began to lament not having grabbed my dad's set of stamped wrenches. There are times when you just need a thin wrench to get into a space and hold a nut or even turn it a bit. I eventually found a set on the smaller end on eBay to compliment my 3 Handy Andy wrenches from my childhood.
> 
> ...


Cone Spanners….oh yes I remember them, great little tools they were too!

You may possibly get arrested for owning one these days!!


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Storing a set of cheapo stamped wrenches*
> 
> This is just one of those things. Some time ago I began to lament not having grabbed my dad's set of stamped wrenches. There are times when you just need a thin wrench to get into a space and hold a nut or even turn it a bit. I eventually found a set on the smaller end on eBay to compliment my 3 Handy Andy wrenches from my childhood.
> 
> ...





> Cone Spanners….oh yes I remember them, great little tools they were too!
> 
> You may possibly get arrested for owning one these days!!
> 
> - robscastle


Why so?


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Storing a set of cheapo stamped wrenches*
> 
> This is just one of those things. Some time ago I began to lament not having grabbed my dad's set of stamped wrenches. There are times when you just need a thin wrench to get into a space and hold a nut or even turn it a bit. I eventually found a set on the smaller end on eBay to compliment my 3 Handy Andy wrenches from my childhood.
> 
> ...


Cone from memory is a slang term for dope, ...I think 
So the reference to a cone spanner could be perceived as drug implements…who knows these days !!

You did good!!


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *Storing a set of cheapo stamped wrenches*
> 
> This is just one of those things. Some time ago I began to lament not having grabbed my dad's set of stamped wrenches. There are times when you just need a thin wrench to get into a space and hold a nut or even turn it a bit. I eventually found a set on the smaller end on eBay to compliment my 3 Handy Andy wrenches from my childhood.
> 
> ...





> Cone from memory is a slang term for dope, ...I think
> So the reference to a cone spanner could be perceived as drug implements…who knows these days !!
> 
> You did good!!
> ...


You've added to my education twice. I looked up cone spanner to discover it's another term for bicycle wrench. Then I learned it means something else as well. The term 'cone' wasn't in my Hardy Boy's Detective Handbook.


----------



## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*More File Handles*










Since I found out how not difficult it is to put a handle on a file, I decided to have a file handle making party today. I put handles on the rest of my needle files that will go in my lutherie kit. They were made from those wooden handles of those disposable foam brushes. The ferrules are cut pieces of small diameter copper pipe.










The handles of the larger files are made from various short spindles that I've saved over the years. One of the nice things about using the spindles is that they often have a tenon on them that fits a ferrule. The ferrules for these are used plumbing fittings that I had in my plumbing drawer for emergencies. It being easier to clean up something you have at 3 AM than it is to buy one at a store that isn't open at 3 AM. I'm glad I've never encountered a situation like this yet.



















I might mention that I did not want these handles to look new. I like them looking pre-worn. The finish on these is boiled linseed oil.

I have 4 more files to put handles on… eventually.

Esperanto fun facts:

file = fajlilo
handle = tenilo
ferrule = (metal)kolumo


----------



## Kelster58 (Dec 2, 2016)

Dave10 said:


> *More File Handles*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I love the ferrules. You did a GREAT job. I may have to have a file handle making party myself.


----------



## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *More File Handles*
> 
> 
> 
> ...





> I love the ferrules. You did a GREAT job. I may have to have a file handle making party myself.
> 
> - Kelster58


Thanks! I know I love having files with handles now. It sort of makes them more legit.


----------



## Mean_Dean (Oct 13, 2009)

Dave10 said:


> *More File Handles*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Looks like a nice set of chisel handles, Dave-love the ferrules!


----------



## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *More File Handles*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Just repurposing junk i have around the shop.


----------



## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*No more piles O' files*










Since I recently went to the trouble to put handles on my collection of chisels, I decided to also make them more accessible. They used to be kept inside the cabinet shown. The smaller ones were in a lazy Susan that I inherited from my dad, while the longer ones just sat in a pile on a shelf. I made these racks out of scrap wood and mounted them on the outside of the door of the cabinet. While I was at it, I took my rack of 'good' chisels* and mounted it on the outside on the other door. The racks are made such that the chisels and the files do not fall off when the doors are opened or closed, but the tools are more readily accessible.

In organizing these, I discovered that I have only two identical files, but I think they were made decades apart. One is a Craftsman and the other is a Heller Bros.


N.B. the chisels that I re-handled a short time ago are pat of my lutherie tool set and now live in a tool roll.


----------



## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

Dave10 said:


> *No more piles O' files*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Good job, Dave. I used to keep all of my tools in a chest. I now have everything visible in an open wall cabinet in one corner of the shop … I'm now using tools I didn't know I had! Oh yeah, good job on the handles!


----------



## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *No more piles O' files*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


It's amazing how much a tool gets used when it's seen and available. I can't tell you how many times I opened those cabinet doors for either a chisel or file.


----------



## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

Dave10 said:


> *No more piles O' files*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yeah … and having all of your tools visible keeps you from being lazy and just going ahead and using that 3/8" mortise chisel to open that can of stain … LOL!


----------



## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*A Brass head hammer just because*










I don't know what I might use this hammer for, but I felt like making it. The head is made from a piece of plumbing that I replaced in our bathroom. The face pieces are screw on fitting from my box of 'future' clamp parts. The handle is a turned spindle from some piece of furniture. The voids in the head were filled with epoxy wood. I lightly sanded the handle to remove some of the finish and swabbed on some boiled linseed oil. The head was cleaned up with a belt sander and a fine bristle brass wheel.


----------



## Mean_Dean (Oct 13, 2009)

Dave10 said:


> *A Brass head hammer just because*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Nice use of available parts to make this hammer!

I was thinking you could have filled the head with BB's or lead shot, to make it more of a dead-blow hammer. Of course, if you have the parts lying around, you could just make another one, and have a pair!


----------



## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *A Brass head hammer just because*
> 
> 
> 
> ...





> Nice use of available parts to make this hammer!
> 
> I was thinking you could have filled the head with BB s or lead shot, to make it more of a dead-blow hammer. Of course, if you have the parts lying around, you could just make another one, and have a pair!
> 
> - Mean_Dean


I do have more bits that i can use. I may make another eventually with lead shot in it. If nothing else it looks interesting.


----------



## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*RIP, My Skil Table Saw*

Tonight I was using my table saw and it started slowing down and speeding up and coming to a stop quicker than usual. This was accompanied by a sort of scorching small. After completely unplugging the saw I tried turning the blade by hand. When it would move, it was hsard to spin and it would stop. I tried applying oil to the moving areas to no benefit. I'm 99.9% sure it's the bearing.

Being a Skil saw I'm sure that even if I wanted to replace the motor, that I would either not be able to find one, and it likely costs nearly as much as a new saw of the same price range, IE it's not worth going to the trouble.

BUT, my plan is not to just go buy an identical saw, or at least that's not my plan A. My plan A is to ask my pastor what he would take for the craftsman table saw that he's had in his garage sitting unused since the 20th century. It was a gift he got from his wife, but he doesn't use it.

This of couse means I'll have to remake all my TS jigs, but that may be a good thing since the ones I have were the fist I ever made. Mark II must be better, eh?


----------



## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *RIP, My Skil Table Saw*
> 
> Tonight I was using my table saw and it started slowing down and speeding up and coming to a stop quicker than usual. This was accompanied by a sort of scorching small. After completely unplugging the saw I tried turning the blade by hand. When it would move, it was hsard to spin and it would stop. I tried applying oil to the moving areas to no benefit. I'm 99.9% sure it's the bearing.
> 
> ...


I should probably mention that I was only cutting mahogany that was 3/8 inch thick.


----------



## FatherHooligan (Mar 27, 2008)

Dave10 said:


> *RIP, My Skil Table Saw*
> 
> Tonight I was using my table saw and it started slowing down and speeding up and coming to a stop quicker than usual. This was accompanied by a sort of scorching small. After completely unplugging the saw I tried turning the blade by hand. When it would move, it was hsard to spin and it would stop. I tried applying oil to the moving areas to no benefit. I'm 99.9% sure it's the bearing.
> 
> ...


If its just the bearings maybe you can replace just the bearings?


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *RIP, My Skil Table Saw*
> 
> Tonight I was using my table saw and it started slowing down and speeding up and coming to a stop quicker than usual. This was accompanied by a sort of scorching small. After completely unplugging the saw I tried turning the blade by hand. When it would move, it was hsard to spin and it would stop. I tried applying oil to the moving areas to no benefit. I'm 99.9% sure it's the bearing.
> 
> ...


Dave,

Its sad news about your Skil Saw, now you have the opportunity to be able to put your saw to rest in piece.
Being the sexton you may be able to Identify a suitable plot at your church for it to be interned.

I had the sad task of having to bury my lawnmover some time ago and as it spent most of its working life on the lawn it was befitting that it should remain there albeit under the grass now.

It was a mamoth task, took me about 3 days maybe I should have folded the handle down and removed the catcher


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## Mean_Dean (Oct 13, 2009)

Dave10 said:


> *RIP, My Skil Table Saw*
> 
> Tonight I was using my table saw and it started slowing down and speeding up and coming to a stop quicker than usual. This was accompanied by a sort of scorching small. After completely unplugging the saw I tried turning the blade by hand. When it would move, it was hsard to spin and it would stop. I tried applying oil to the moving areas to no benefit. I'm 99.9% sure it's the bearing.
> 
> ...


Sorry to hear about your TS woes, Dave, but this is an opportunity to upgrade your saw, and make your woodworking that much more enjoyable.

I started out using an old Craftsman TS I inherited, and it just wasn't very convenient to use. The fence never really worked all that well, and I ended up making a fence myself, which was more accurate, but still kind of a pain to get adjusted correctly. The table wasn't very large, and it made cutting larger boards or plywood difficult. I spent more time (it seemed) fooling around with the saw, to get it adjusted correctly, than I did making cuts with it.

I finally decided to upgrade to a much better TS (SawStop), and have been very happy with it ever since I did. In fact, I often wonder why I waited so long…....... The new saw takes just a few seconds to get adjusted, and is very accurate. It's a real pleasure to use.

You may find this to be the case when you upgrade your saw-let us know!


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *RIP, My Skil Table Saw*
> 
> Tonight I was using my table saw and it started slowing down and speeding up and coming to a stop quicker than usual. This was accompanied by a sort of scorching small. After completely unplugging the saw I tried turning the blade by hand. When it would move, it was hsard to spin and it would stop. I tried applying oil to the moving areas to no benefit. I'm 99.9% sure it's the bearing.
> 
> ...


I cannot afford any sort of major upgrade, but I've decided to pull the trigger on a Ryobi 10 in. portable (rts21g) . The saw itself is probably much as mine was, but it has an extendable table, an outfeed bar, and a slightly better fence. I had thoughts on asking my pastor about the Crafteman that sits unused in his garage, but It's possible I'd just be asking for more of the same problem.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

*New Table Saw*










This not meant as a review. I'll do that somewhere down the road. I got the new saw set up on my old base instead of the much touted folding, portable, self storing, base that came with the saw. Biggest problem is that I had to move my router stand to the other side of the saw since the extendable leaf needs room to extend.

My last saw cost me about $125 and lasted me about 5 years. $25 per year isn't bad for a table saw by my estimation. This one cost $200. We'll see how long it lasts.

Now, back to work!


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Dave10 said:


> *New Table Saw*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I like the color, really spiffs up the place.

I never thought about it before but I'm at $47/year on my saw. 16 more years and I'll be at $25/yr


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

Dave10 said:


> *New Table Saw*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Have to agree with *Rick*, outstanding color … at least until we get the tool review!

OK *Rick*, I bought my saw in 1974 for $229 (with stand, two wings, and 3 blades) which come's out to $5.32/yr!
A few rust spots on the stand but it still runs like new! 
They don't make them like that anymore, at least for that price.


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## TraylorPark (Jan 9, 2014)

Dave10 said:


> *New Table Saw*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I just upgraded from this saw, or the older blue version I should say. I was a great little saw. Busted through 8/4 material with little complaint and I even used it to mill some small logs from time to time. I used it pretty regularly for about 5 years and now it will be my job site saw when I do handyman gigs. Slap a good blade on there and it should serve you well.


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## DRSWoody (Aug 16, 2014)

Dave10 said:


> *New Table Saw*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I have one just like that Ryobi I bought a couple of years ago. I use it as a job site saw so it gets banged around a lot from job to job. I even hauled it to Tucson last winter to do a building project for my daughter. There it was taken out and put back in every day for 6 weeks. It's holding up quite well for a low priced saw. One of the reasons I bought it was the extendable table. It allows for ripping 4ft wide material. I have a full size contractor saw in my shop I've had for 15 years and expect it to go 25 yrs if I out last it with my 74 year body. Enjoy your new saw.


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## DRSWoody (Aug 16, 2014)

Dave10 said:


> *New Table Saw*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I have one just like that Ryobi I bought a couple of years ago. I use it as a job site saw so it gets banged around a lot from job to job. I even hauled it to Tucson last winter to do a building project for my daughter. It's holding up quite well for a low priced saw. I have a full size contractor saw in my shop I've had for 15 years and expect it to go 25 yrs if I out last it with my 74 year body. Enjoy your new saw.


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *New Table Saw*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I'm glad to hear good things about the saw. Whenever I've bought a tool costing more than pocket money I spend a day or so looking at options and reading reviews. So far I can say the fence is definitwely better than the one on my old Skil saw. ONly down side I've discovered is that the space to reach in and tighten/llosed the riving knife is smaller, so I have to be a little more careful. Luckily my riving knife stays where it is 95% of the time.


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## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

Dave10 said:


> *New Table Saw*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


maybe I can use the logic with my wife when she says ….HOW MUCH DOES IT COST …LOL :<)) only 500 a year


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *New Table Saw*
> 
> 
> 
> ...





> maybe I can use the logic with my wife when she says ….HOW MUCH DOES IT COST …LOL :<)) only 500 a year
> 
> - GR8HUNTER


Just tell her it's cheaper than renting one. Think of the savings!


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## Mean_Dean (Oct 13, 2009)

Dave10 said:


> *New Table Saw*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Nice addition to the shop, Dave-I'm sure you'll get your 25 bucks a year's worth!


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

Dave10 said:


> *New Table Saw*
> 
> 
> 
> ...





> Nice addition to the shop, Dave-I m sure you ll get your 25 bucks a year s worth!
> 
> - Mean_Dean


I've just about finished my first project made with the saw. I should probably put up a review soon. Hint: it will be positive.


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