# attaching table top



## tonywood (Sep 19, 2013)

I am building a table from a apple wood slab for the top and root/trunk as the base..

whats the best way to attach the top to the base. would be nice if fasteners were hidden, with the ability to take the top off if needed


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## Rick Dennington (Aug 27, 2009)

When I build a piece of furniture with a table top, I use fugure 8's for fasteners….They are countersunk into the rails, and are held by screws….One part sits in a small divit made by a Forstner bit about 1/16" deep, and the other end fastens to the underside of the top….It also allows for wood movement during seasonal changes, and you can remove the top anytime…..I have some examples in my Photobucket furniture projects, and it works good….Been using them for years, with no problems…....If you want to see how they actually work, go to my Projects page, and click on the Shaker Hall Table, and click on the links I posted…..


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

I use these:










A biscuit joiner works great for making the slot on the apron, or you can cut a kerf prior to assembly.


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## richardwootton (Jan 17, 2013)

I have used the same thing Charlie just pictured and just cut a think kerf in the aprons on the table saw.


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

I've used the same as Charlie above and they work well. I too used the biscuit cutter for the slots. These allow for wood movement and are removable. I got them from woodcraft and they are pretty cheap.
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2001036/10127/Table-Top-Fasteners.aspx


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## tefinn (Sep 23, 2011)

The OP says he is mounting a slab to a *root/trunk* being used as the base. I don't think he will have an apron to use any of the suggested fasteners. If this is the case, I'd use 3 or 4 large dowels drilled and glued into the base with matching holes in the slab. If the slab is thick and heavy enough, gravity will keep it in place and it can be easily removed. This idea would depend on the size/weight of the slab and base though. Pics would help.


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

Good point! I guess I should read better.


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

LOL! Looks like reading comprehension is not my strong suit either.


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## tefinn (Sep 23, 2011)

Hey, I had to read it twice before I caught it! I was going to suggest the same hardware as you guys until I did!


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## Randy_ATX (Sep 18, 2011)

Could the OP still use those fasteners and cut some slots into the top sides of the stump? Seems like it would still work in theory.


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## watermark (Jan 29, 2013)

Good point Randy. Maybe in combination with some good sized dowels like tefinn suggested. But pics would be nice sounds like a cool project.


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## tonywood (Sep 19, 2013)

thanks for all the replies so far.. tefinn is right. here are some pictures. i hope it helps. i think the dowels might not work.. to much movement in the woods.. not sure they will align after a while ..


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

How about some rare earth magnets.


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## Bluepine38 (Dec 14, 2009)

Use some more root stock, or make some out of wood that will allow you to attach the supports to the
upright part in a way that will make them look like branches giving natural support to the top. This will 
give it stability, then you could use tefinn's dowel idea with one central dowel to keep it from sliding. You 
might even have some branches from original tree that could be repurposed. If you are worried about 
wood movement screws placed in slots in the supports, with the slots aligned to the wood movement
would be hidden unless someone lays on their back to see how you attached it.


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## Rick Dennington (Aug 27, 2009)

I'm gonna blame Charlie for what I wrote, also…..I think it's his fault…....If he had of been #1 with his suggestion, then I would have caught it right off, and not given my answer…....!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## tefinn (Sep 23, 2011)

Judging from your pics it looks as if the base/trunk is about 10" diameter and the top is around 2 1/2' long, 18" wide and 3" thick. Am I close? I would still go with the dowels. You wont have as much movement in the center as you would towards the edges, so movement shouldn't be a problem. I changed my thoughts on gluing the dowels into the base though. I would glue three dowels into the top about 2/3's the thickness of the top (2" if my guesstimate is right). Then with about 3 1/2 to 4" of dowel into the base you should be alright. The dowels glued into the base and loose in the top would've let the top possibly pivot/tilt off the dowels if leaned on. With them glued into the top and extra depth into the base this should be prevented.


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