# Electrical question



## CudaDude (Jan 30, 2012)

I did some rearranging and need to move the 220v. The walls are closed up except for the area around the subpanel and the area where to 220v currently is. I have complete access to the subpanel and rafter area. I want to run Romex in the attic area from the panel to the wall where the 220v needs to be. I want to drop the romex from the attic into a section of conduit and surface mount the 220 outlet. I want to surface mount in case I decide to move it in the future. What I need help with is the transition from 'open' romex in the attic to the conduit. Do I need to be concerned with chafing of the wire at the top of the conduit, or can I just simply be slid into the conduit? Suggestions on different method of running the 220? I don't want drop inside the wall because I will more than likely rearrange again and don't want random 220's here and there. Thanks in advance.


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## johnstoneb (Jun 14, 2012)

There are fittings available similar to a gland nut that will clamp the wire preventing chafing and also sealing the top of the conduit to keep critters and trash out of the conduit.


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## crank49 (Apr 7, 2010)

You shouldn't run "Romex" in conduit. Not rated for that.
Put a j-box on top of the conduit using a proper connector and bushing, then splice and run THHN down the conduit.


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## alittleoff (Nov 27, 2014)

Romax is fine in conduit. Conduit is to be used for protective cover. It's code to put it in conduit where exposed. As for the fitting, just get a conduit connector, put it on the conduit then put a 1/2" plastic bushing on it. Lowes should have what you need. You could also use a compression type coupling instead of the bushing and connector if they don't have the bushing.
Gerald

Most people don't use anything, just leave a loop of wire where it enters the conduit so it won't be stretched.


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## WhyMe (Feb 15, 2014)

Use an EMT insulating bushing on the end of EMT where the romex enters.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

I needed to do that in my basement, coming out of a suspended ceiling down a concrete wall. I just put one of those plastic bushings on the end of the conduit where the romex entered and then ran it down the wall to the outlet box.


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## bkseitz (Oct 24, 2014)

Given you're messing with 220 and running it through your house and transitioning to conduit, I'd suggest you talk with a local electrician about code and best practice. The last thing you want is an insurance company voiding a claim should there be a problem, even if that electrical wiring wasn't the issue, because you didn't follow code.


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## CudaDude (Jan 30, 2012)

thanks for the replies. What I'm doing is pretty simple, I just tend to overcomplicate things. The insulating bushing sounds like the solution I need.


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## cracknpop (Dec 20, 2011)

Good advice above.

But here's another thought. Not sure what you are running off your 220, but in my shop where most tools are on casters, I have longer cords on my 220v TS, shaper, and planer allowing me to put them where I want them and still reach the plug. Of course, your cords will need to be rated for 220v and amp load.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

> Use an EMT insulating bushing on the end of EMT where the romex enters.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Ditto.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

I am unsure since it's been 2 or 3 years… but I think it is actually against code to put romex in conduit (if ever worried about code, that is). If want to go the official route, go with what crank says about a J-box (4"x4" square metal box & flex or solid conduit with solid core 12 gauge wires). If not worried about code, the world is all yours


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

The correct way is to run Romex to a junction box and transition to conduit and THHN/THWN wire inside that to your receptacle. The idea is that wire in insulated sheathing inside conduit will get too warm. You''re not even supposed to use Romex that you've stripped the sheathing off of, but I'll bet it's done all the time.

Your easiest option is:
https://wirencable.com/8-3-heavy-duty-welder-extension-cord-25ft-or-50ft/?gclid=CK2wtcjtnMoCFcOQHwodtCYFTg


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## becikeja (Sep 12, 2010)

Double check your local code requirements. If you have existing conduit, I would suspect this is a code requirement otherwise the original wiring would have been done with romex as it is less costly. A few years ago, when I was living in Chicago, I got into a long discussion with the Electrical Manager at an HD (ok not the best source) who assured me romex was acceptable or he wouldn't be selling it. Did a little investigating and discovered that was not the case. The circuit had to be run in conduit to meet city code if I was in the city limits which I was. Since then I have moved back to the south and romex is used everywhere and perfectly acceptable.


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## WhyMe (Feb 15, 2014)

> I am unsure since it s been 2 or 3 years… but I think it is actually against code to put romex in conduit (if ever worried about code, that is).
> - Holbs


Putting Romex in conduit is not a NEC violation. The NEC gives provisions for when Romex is placed in conduit as to how the conduit is to be sized.



> The *correct way* is to run Romex to a junction box and transition to conduit and THHN/THWN wire inside that to your receptacle. The idea is that wire in insulated sheathing inside conduit will get too warm.
> - dhazelton


 Using Romex in a complete system install of conduit is not a best practice. Using conduit for sleeves and protection of Romex is proper. Having a short length of the Romex from where it goes from the ceiling down to the outlet box in conduit is not an incorrect way to do it. It may not be your way, but is not an incorrect way.


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## alittleoff (Nov 27, 2014)

Make sure that your wearing proper electrical atire.
Hard hat, cloves, steel toe boots, etc.
Set up barriers 
Call electric dept. For permit
Shut off all power.
Check with OSHA for jobsite approval 
Install bushing carefully.
Call for inspection.
Gerald


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## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

I would run conduit from the panel to where you want your outlet except I would pull some #8 or #10 wire and put in a small sub panel. Then I would come off you sub panel to your outlet. It would be done right and you have future room for other options later. Even if you don't want the sub-panel it would be easiest to just run MC cable all the way from the panel to the outlet.


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

Run a new subpanel just to extend one existing 220 line? Overkill.

Poster could also put an extension box on the existing box and run the conduit horizontally along the wall from that point.


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## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

> Run a new subpanel just to extend one existing 220 line? Overkill.
> 
> - dhazelton


"I want to surface mount *in case I decide to move it in the future*."

"Suggestions on different method of running the 220?"

Sorry, I had the shop mentality going on, not the garage hobbyshop. I'm always moving and adding equip so future expansion was on my mind.


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## WhyMe (Feb 15, 2014)

Why do people keep referring to voltage as 110/220V?  The 110/220 voltage standard has been long gone. The standard in the US is 120/240V. Some of you guts must be older than dirt.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

> Why do people keep referring to voltage as 110/220V? The 110/220 voltage standard has been long gone. The standard in the US is 120/240V. Some of you guts must be older than dirt.
> 
> - WhyMe


I just go with it.


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

I get about 115 volts measured in my receptacles. Maybe I should start saying 115/230 just to annoy people.

My guts are 56.


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## WhyMe (Feb 15, 2014)

> I get about 115 volts measured in my receptacles. Maybe I should start saying 115/230 just to annoy people.
> 
> My guts are 56.
> 
> - dhazelton


Funny.. I was too late when I saw my typo to fix it…. Guys. The standard voltage is suppose to be the least voltage from the source, not what the actual voltage is you may get at your outlets. Mine is 123V at the outlets.


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## hotbyte (Apr 3, 2010)

I'd go with 220 or 221. Whatever it takes.


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

WhyMe - just razzing you. It's one of those things that so many people don't know about, and frankly is kind of a sound only a dog can ear unless you're an electrician or an engineer. We all know what we mean.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

120/240V may be the standard, but the 115/230V nomenclature is still pretty widely used everywhere… For example, here is a current Baldor catalog listing for their TEFC motors:










110/220 isn't seen very often these days, but regardless of what number you use, I'm pretty sure everyone knows exactly what you are talking about. No reason to raise your blood pressure over it 

Cheers,
Brad


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