# How to best apply polyurethane to quilted table top



## JohnnyBoy1981 (Mar 15, 2017)

I built an end table where the boards of the table top have a quilted pattern. That is, I have two boards connected side by side with the grain running parallel to each other. On the end grain of those boards, I have boards attached that have the grain running perpendicular to the first two. I hope that makes sense!

I applied a gel stain to each board, wiping it off in the direction of the grain, which would alternate across the table top.

I'm not there yet, but when it comes time to apply a top coat of polyurethane, can I simply apply it all in one continuous stroke, from one end of the table to the other, and keep going like that or do I need to do like I did with the stain and apply the top coat to each individual board following the various grain directions?

I feel like I wrote this question in a way that makes the whole board design sound more convoluted than it really is lol!


----------



## ArtMann (Mar 1, 2016)

If it were my project, I would spray the finish on. If you don't have a sprayer, you can use rattle cans. I used to use wipe on polyurethane which is applied too thinly to see brush strokes. It takes several coats to get very much build up. The good thing about wipe on is that it is almost fool proof (not that I think you are foolish!).

Edit: I think the correct term for the pattern you are using may be "herringbone".


----------



## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

A picture is always best when trying to explain "sutff" if possible.

Before you worry about the finishing process we need to figure out if you have a cross grain situation on the table top.

You said "I have two boards connected side by side with the grain running parallel to each other. On the end grain of those boards, I have boards attached that have the grain running perpendicular to the first two." How did you attach those boards? How wide are the boards that are parallel. Did you think of wood movement.

We need more information on the construction of the table top. Again a picture does wonders when trying to explain "stuff">


----------



## masman (Jan 1, 2010)

This is a night table I just finished. It has three coats of wipe-on poly and four coats of min-wax polish. I like the look a lot.


----------



## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

+1 on AlaskaGuy's request for photos. Kind of hard to picture. ArtMann is probably right with the herringbone, but photos would help.


----------



## JohnnyBoy1981 (Mar 15, 2017)

This is the table top. It's made of 2×4's. They are joined on the opposite side by pocket holes.


----------



## Dark_Lightning (Nov 20, 2009)

I don't know the name for that pattern. Are the darker "lines" chamfers, or an artifact of different thicknesses? If they are chamfers, and you managed to stain it uniformly, good on ya! I'd spray the poly though, from different angles around the piece, but at about 45° from horizontal to get it into the gaps. There will be a fair amount of over spray, though. I wouldn't want to brush it unless I was looking for a rustic finish. Too finicky for gloss, that way.


----------



## JohnnyBoy1981 (Mar 15, 2017)

Those are the normal contours of the edges of the 2×4's, so they form little valleys where the boards meet. A spray on poly may be the best way to go here. Thanks!


----------



## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

Get ready far an ass chewing! just saying,


----------



## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

No ass chewing here, but when I hear quilted pattern and wood, I'm not picturing 2×4's in a quilted pattern. Ya know - quilted maple and all.

That's really a nice piece. Seriously, I like the pattern. Since you already have gel stain on there, and there are chamfers in the joints, I'd suggest spraying a topcoat. Your choice. Get a couple of cans at the big box store and have at it.

My preference is lacquer. It's very forgiving. If you make a mistake, it's easy to fix.


----------



## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Spray on or wipe-on poly should be fine. I usually prefer wipe-on though, as it make it makes it really easy to get any desired look - from a muted natural wood danish oil look to a high gloss one, and anything in-between.

Cheers,
Brad


----------



## JohnnyBoy1981 (Mar 15, 2017)

Thanks guys!


----------



## JohnnyBoy1981 (Mar 15, 2017)

Thanks guys!


> Get ready far an ass chewing! just saying,
> 
> - jbay


Why would I get my ass chewed?


----------



## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

Well, when I hear quilted pattern, I picture something like this:


----------



## JayT (May 6, 2012)

How are you allowing for wood movement in that pattern?


----------



## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

> How are you allowing for wood movement in that pattern?
> 
> - JayT


Same thing I was wondering about. Apparently no one sees that a possible problem.


----------



## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

I think the question was how to apply poly on projects with changing direction. If I heard you right, I would say spray on the topcoat. There is a question that gets asked on LJ's about 3x per week and it usually starts something like this… how do I prevent brush strokes when applying a topcoat?

The answer seems overly simplified, and when I answer it quickly it can sound a little snippy, but honestly spraying solves so many problems that people are likely to encounter with finishing. I forgot my own advise and wiped some clear shellac on a shop cabinet I'm building. What a mess! Drips, runs, and the shellac takes on a yellow tone if it goes on too thick. For the second coat I switched back to spraying… Ahh much better.

An inexpensive gravity feed HVLP conversion gun and a compressor are all you need to give it a try.


----------



## UpstateNYdude (Dec 20, 2012)

> An inexpensive gravity feed HVLP conversion gun and a compressor are all you need to give it a try.
> 
> - pintodeluxe


And a place to spray that doesn't get it all over the place.


----------



## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

> An inexpensive gravity feed HVLP conversion gun and a compressor are all you need to give it a try.
> 
> - pintodeluxe
> 
> ...


Yep I learned that lesson the hard way years ago. I would'nt spray that stuff or any slow drying finish unless I could take it out side.

I switch to mostly waterborne finishes so I don't have to worry every flat surface in the shop getting sticky.


----------



## JohnnyBoy1981 (Mar 15, 2017)

> Well, when I hear quilted pattern, I picture something like this:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Ah! I see where the confusion was. I didn't really know what to call the design of the top. Sorry!


----------



## JohnnyBoy1981 (Mar 15, 2017)

I made no concessions for wood movement outside of being aware of the end grain of the boards and placing them where I thought they might work. I just followed a plan I found online. This is a fun/practice piece for me. I'm not in it for a lot of money, and frankly couldn't care less if wood movement made it tear itself apart!

It would be interesting to see how one might keep this design and allow for wood movement, but again, I don't really care. I was mostly interested in thoughts about top coat application.

Thanks all for your input!


----------



## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

Give it a few good coats of finish top and bottom, and it'll help with the movement. I like your thinking on the subject. It'll be a good experiment to see how wood does move. I'd be curious to hear what happens.


----------



## JohnnyBoy1981 (Mar 15, 2017)

> Give it a few good coats of finish top and bottom, and it ll help with the movement. I like your thinking on the subject. It ll be a good experiment to see how wood does move. I d be curious to hear what happens.
> 
> - RichTaylor


Thanks! I'll be thrilled if it works out, but if it doesn't I'd rather I waste 2×4 material and not expensive hardwood!


----------

