# Delta 36-979 TS



## BuyoMasilla (Jun 5, 2011)

Good Evening Fellows,

I am looking at upgrading my table saw and a co worker has this model delta saw (36-979). It is a contractor saw and seems to be in good shape. The fence is a delta, imitation Biesmeyer you may say, where it stands maybe 3 inches tall and is about 4" wide with the center a bit lower than the rounded edges. I has a few extras like 0 clearance blade cover, and a dado one as well. The splitter was not installed when I looked at it today but appeared to be plastic covering the blade one with a couple of the "toothy wings" extending backwards.

There are casters on the base, the table I estimate at 30 inches deep and 36 to 40 wide with room for another 12 to 18 on the right hand side. It is cast iron through. This would be a great improvement over the direct drive firestorm I have now.

Any thoughts on the worth of this saw?

Thanks for reading, Mario


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

The 36-979 was one of Delta's most recent full size left tilt contractor saws (27" deep), and is generally well regarded for an older style contractor saw with an outboard motor and no riving knife. Sounds like it has the Delta T2 fence, which is very regarded as a good value. Does it have steel wings or solid cast iron? (IIRC, the 979 had steel wings, and the 980 has cast iron wings….it made about $100 difference in retail). These sold in the $500-$600 range, so I'd think $275 to $350ish would be fair depending on condition, and which wing material it actually has. If it's much more than that you start getting into range of a newer updated saw with an inboard motor, riving knife, warranty, dealer support, etc.

With proper alignment and good blade selection, this could be a nice saw IMO. Good luck and please keep us updated (with pics!)


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## BuyoMasilla (Jun 5, 2011)

Thanks for the reply Knotscott. The Delta in question is the one with the cast iron top (on the right). I did try to toss a picture in my entry from some found on line (possibly like you did) but fell short on skills.

At the risk of being redundant, Thanks!, your assessment is what I was hoping for. You cover some of the potential cons and described the saw much better than I did. As I mentioned, what I have right know has a direct drive on the blade, I believe that the belt between power and blade, though and extra part/step, is a good thing. With the cast iron and wider table, this saw is much more solid than my little BD firestorm. She does have a tenoning jig (manufactured one) and the inserts I mentioned, but I don't know that I can or want to go much over 300 on it (which I think would be a pretty darn good deal). Back to the riving knives which apparently this saw predates, can one be installed? I suppose a splitter on an insert may also be an option.

Knotscott, if you care to comment again, I'll read it. Mario


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

You're welcome Mario. Yes, a belt is a good thing IMO…they help reduce vibration, and in the event the blade gets overloaded the belts tend to slip as opposed to overloading the motor coils. You'll also find that the induction motor is much quieter and has more torque…plus the motor can be converted to 220v if you have it, which helps balance out the amp load allowing for better amp flow during peak demands.

There is one aftermarket riving knife (and blade guard) that I know, and it just might fit that saw. It's called the BORK, and is made by fellow woodworker Bob Ross, of Walnutacre Woodworking. He's a great guy to deal with, and guarantees your satisfaction with a 100% refund if not happy. I have one on my Shop Fox cabinet saw, and have been really happy with it….here's my LJ's review of it.

I think $300 would be a nice deal, and is fair to the seller IMO….could still be a nice deal at $325ish if necessary (only you can decide what your cutoff point is). Contractor saws are a little tedious to align, but the previous owner may already have it dialed in, so if it travels well, you might not have to bother….definitely check it once it's setup. Definitely a nice upgrade from your current saw….much heavier and more stable, more operating room, more usable power, better reliability, and likely more accurate too. I'd think there would be some owners of that saw here, as they sold quite few through Lowe's, Amazon, and other dealers.


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## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

I remember when I upgraded from direct drive to a contractor saw. Talk about a great day! If you buy the saw in the $300 range, I imagine you will be happy, and woodworking on the ts will be a lot more enjoyable, accurate, safer, and quiter. good luck, and update us if you get it.


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## BuyoMasilla (Jun 5, 2011)

Good Evening Fellows,

I have gone ahead and picked up the Delta 36-979 TS. Got it to the garage and tried to do a little cleaning.

When I ran the motor, the belt was rubbing against the plastic housing. Loosened the four bolts and moved things around a bit which stopped the problem with the blade at ninety degrees, have not tried the forty five degree, will do that later.

Took some pictures which I will try to embed/interject into this note. The case/housing looks nice, removed some sawdust from the inside with the shop vac and with a light cleaning, the saw looks OK.










As mentioned earlier, there was a tenoning jig which was thrown in with the saw.










There was also a height measuring digital gauge, different inserts, a featherboard and push stick .!
http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/aa455/fdezmario/TSbladefeatherboard.jpg!










I'm including a view of the motor/rear of saw, and am trying to point to an apparent issue with the small rod like piece which holds and hinges the saw's motor. There is a bit of slop/play on that part which may have cotributed to the seeming misalignment of the belt.



















In closing, a couple of questions. Should I be concernced with the play on that motor mount/hinge part?

What is a good product to clean and lubricate the trunion screws controlling blade height and angle?

Thanks for reading, I look forward to your responses.

Mario
PS, for whatever reason, the photos are auto cropped when they make it into the writing.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

You might be able to add a washer or tighten it up more if it concerns you, but I wouldn't give the spacing in the motor mount much thought if it's not causing an issue.

White lithium grease is good for lubing the trunnions…sprays on easily and dries hard so it doesn't attract saw dust. Paste wax applied with a tooth brush works too.

Looks to be in really nice shape…that saw is worth putting a decent blade on. Congrats!


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

I own this saw and like it very much. The solid cast iron wings are fantastic. That tenon jig is an expensive upgrade to (over $100). Did it come with the blade guard? That blade guard has a riving knife and two anti kickback catches (the things with the teeth) built in. (Some call it a splitter because it comes off with the blade guard). Keep the guard on as much as possible and it is an extremely safe saw. Also, if you have 220 power in your shop you can switch a couple wires in the motor to run it that way, which is REALLY nice!


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## BuyoMasilla (Jun 5, 2011)

Thanks for your replies gentlemen.

Knotscott, I have an 80 tooth diablo that did not go with the old (yet likely newer) firestorm my stepson just inherited. Depending on the task, it will go on for the finer cuts. Let me ask you yet another question, is the spay on white lithium available at the HD or Lowes that you know? or is another trip to woodcraft in my near future?

Seemed to me that the blade squared up pretty good at perpendicular from the table and the distance between miter slot and a tooth front and back on the blade.

StumpyNubs, the blade guard came with it. Can you tell me how hard it is to get on and off? I had a little sled on the firestorm that went with it. I guess I'll have to build one for this saw. However, that reminds me….....I need to get back to the garage (where the "shop" is and tools reside) cabinets project before I start on jigs and such. Earlier in the week as I was working on the plywood, I measured once. Nough said as you know I'll be cutting twice. As far as the 220 power, my step son thinks I should get professional help (not talking about my therapist now) and have service run to the garage where a new breaker box can go and get 220 and more 110 from there. Hopefully it'll happen someday.

Back to the saw, and maybe you guys can give me some ideas. The pedal activated caster is not working properly. I have to keep my foot on it to have it engaged and working. I did not know better and then saw a rerun of Norm simply pushing the saw around while that pedal was locked in place.

Thanks again for reading. Mario


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

HD and Lowes= both have spray on white lithium.

Take a pic of the front lift wheel…it might be installed incorrectly, or maybe someone will spot a possible adjustment.

If you don't already have 220v, or easy access to it, it might not be worth the effort. Every motor and every circuit is different, so the interaction between them is different, causing results to vary in each case. (I noticed a pretty obvious improvement when I switched my 110v table saws to 220v…likely due to a very long 110v run). Try it on 110v first…hopefully your 110v circuit can be dedicated solely to the saw. If start ups seem slow, lights dim, and/or the saw bogs easily and recovers slowly, then 220v might be worth running. At the very least it's a "nice to have" in just about any shop.

The 80T Diablo should be fine for ply and fine crossuts if it's clean and sharp. If you've never cleaned it, get some household degreaser (409, Greased Lightning, Fantastic, etc) and spray it on…hit it with your wife's toothbrush within a few minutes ;-), then rinse and dry. You didn't ask, but if you're looking for some really good deals on a new 42T ATB general purpose or 50T ATB/R combo , Onsrud still has some great clearance deals on Ebay…they're German made industrial grade blades and have free s/h, and many sell for the listing price (auction style)...tough value to beat IMHO.


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## Howie (May 25, 2010)

I think you fell into a bargain. Enjoy!


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

Good score. READ THE MANUAL!!!!
My go-to blade is a full kerf Freud combo. I also have the Freud 80t crosscut and an Infinity 24t ripper.
Good blades will really make a difference.
Be sure to set the fence properly, and always use the splitter. Some remove the pawls (the toothed thingys), but I use all I can to prevent kickback. You've never been as excited as you'll get when that happens.
Bill


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## BuyoMasilla (Jun 5, 2011)

Howie, I'll tell you that I've had worse spills for sure. Bill, I've installed the blade guard and hope to cut a bit of plywood later today, but could surely use an outfeed table.

Knotscott, I'm throwing in a couple pics of that wheel, as you mentioned, maybe you or someone else may spot the problem. I'm also trying to show the height measuring digital jig that got cropped out by photobucket, the blade guard, the in progress cabinets (they're from the family handyman http://www.familyhandyman.com/DIY-Projects/Home-Organization/Garage-Storage/installing-large-garage-cabinets/Step-By-Step) and my current collection of 10 inch blades and their holder. Incidentally, it sounded that even the brand new blades should be brushed with best half's tooth brush, correct?

Thanks, Mario


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

I don't see anything amiss on that wheel…maybe someone else will. Can the wheel location be adjusted within the frame? ...Or, if there any adjustable threaded feet on the legs, maybe those could be adjusted up a little so they don't drag.

New blades should be fine…clean them often after use, and they'll perform well for a long time. Using the wife's toothbrush is optional, but I don't like the taste of the spray cleaners so I use hers.


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## RibsBrisket4me (Jul 17, 2011)

That is a sweet saw and sweet deal.

I have a Craftsman contractor saw that I've enjoyed for years. Lots of good and great bladed on the market. I found a link belt really made the saw run smoother.

I actually got a Forrest WW II THIRTY tooth blade and it is my daily blade. Rips great and surprisingly crosscuts to my liking as well. I've had it for 2+ yrs and just now I'm noticing it burn some cherry so it may be due for a sharpening. I picked the blade up on sale

```
Amazon for
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 $70.

Congrats and enjoy!


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## BuyoMasilla (Jun 5, 2011)

Thanks Bullethead….....and the rest of you fellows for your comments and advice. The gentleman who owned the saw, rest in peace, was a big New Yankee Workshop fan. My co worker threw in all the extra gear he had for the saw, including a DVD on table saw starring Norm. Today another jig showed up which Norm used in this particular episode. It's a pretty fancy miter jig with an abraded (sand paper?) fence about 3" tall and maybe 18" long with a stop for repeating cuts further sweetening the deal.

Bullethead, you mention your trusty blade and I must admit it's not one I'm familiar with. I usually stay away from the pricy stuff. As you know, you can spend as much as you want on gear. I did take Knotscott's suggestion and put a fifteen bucks bid on the 42 teeth Onsrud, and won!! It'll get here via UPS in a few days I suppose. I have a cheap 8" dado from HF which I believe will perform better on the Delta than it did in the Firestorm.

I did rip a bit of plywood last night. I rigged an outfeed table with a couple of sawhorses. Kept if safe. It was niiiice.


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## Reteppo (Feb 5, 2012)

Excellent posts. I have a 39-980, pretty accuarte and stable for a contractor's saw, and I've been very satisfied with it except for one thing. I have to be Hercules to push stock through the splitter. It's a good concept with integral pawls and blade guard, but the curve in the splitter is so big it pushes the stock or binds it. I was looking for a riving knife but I don't want to change the saw setup. Is it possible my splitter is not to spec?


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## NiteWalker (May 7, 2011)

I have the same saw and love it.

I plan on tuning up and realigning mine this spring.

For the splitter I use an MJ steel pro splitter in a leecraft ZCI. No complaints.


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## Danpaddles (Jan 26, 2012)

I felt like the outfeed table was a safety item, no more boards falling on the motor. I love my outfeed table. Unfortunately I did not build it to coexist with the blade guard, but then, I never used the blade guard anyway.

I attached it with a hunk of aluminum, angle iron (can't really call it angle iron can I ?)...... aluminum angle.

If you want to check something else, see if the blade is still parallel to the miter gage when you tip the blade to 45 degree deg. Mine is not…......


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

Reteppo - From your description it sounds to me like either the splitter is not aligned well with the blade, or the blade is a tad too thin for the splitter.


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## czlee (Jan 29, 2012)

I have the same saw with the beisemyer fence. It has been a very solid tool. As far as contractor saws go, I really think it's one of the better ones. the only thing it really needs is a better miter gauge. I would suggest eventually upgrading to a link belt to smooth out the vibrations. As mentioned before the mj splitter is a good option, just be sure you get the "pro" . Aside from that if you have to align the blade at some point table saw pals will save you hours of frustration.

It sounds like you got a great deal.


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## mchapman87 (Dec 30, 2015)

I inherited this same saw from my father. This is officially my first table saw so I cannot compare it to others, but I will saw I love this thing. somewhere in the move my blade guard went missing, but I am always sure to use a featherboard or other safety features to prevent kickback and such. Last night while I was in the middle of ripping a board for my wifes hall tree my v-belt started popping strings. I killed the power to the TS before I got any cords wrapped up around the shaft thankfully. Now to find a replacement locally that wont break the bank. Any suggestions on comparable v-belts that I can pick up from the hardware store? I just need something temporary so I can finish this project. I am thinking about trying the twist lock belts at some point, they say that they are a vast improvement. I also have a delta shopmaster drill press that has some vibration. Maybe if I pull the trigger for the TS ill replace the DP belt too.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

HF has the link belts at a reasonable price. You can also take the original belt to a good belt supply house, radiator shop, etc., and get a good quality cogged rubber v-belt. The link belts can be a big improvement over a standard v-belt that's taken a set or has vibration due to a deviation it's path. There won't be much improvement from a link belt over a good v-belt that's working properly, but they also shouldn't ever take a set.


















p.s.: You've got a nice full size contractor saw with a belt drive induction motor. With proper alignment and a good blade, there should be next nothing it can't handle for a hobbyist.


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## 01ntrain (Jun 21, 2015)

I have the same saw with the a Unifence. My CL-gloat….I got it for $250. My only dig on the saw is that it's a right-tilt….but I haven't had to do a lot of bevels with it, so it works great for me. I'm also not a fan of the dust-collection chute inside the leg assembly. Taking it out and apart will weaken the stand. I've just decided to work around it for my dust collection. It's a great saw…..


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

It takes a Delta P/N 49-034 belt, which has an OD of 44" 
Any place that sells belts should have them for under $10

Cheers,
Brad


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## mchapman87 (Dec 30, 2015)

Thank you so much for pointing me towards HF's green belt. From reading reviews on both items ( red v.s. green) I can't really tell a difference in the quality and functionality that both are said to have, so the no brainer would be to go with the least expensive. I have vacation coming up in April so I want to try and be as easy on the wallet as possible right now, but maybe I can get the better deal with the 20% off coupon. I love harbor freight for the value, but one has to decide what is more important the value or the performance.


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## mchapman87 (Dec 30, 2015)

01ntrain that dust chute shouldn't affect the stability of the stand. Mine doesn't have the chute in anymore, although I wish it did and I have no structural issues. If you are looking to get rid of the chute I'll send you my address


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