# My Chainsaw Mill



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

*My Chainsaw Mill*




























If you're here because you're trying to decide on a saw mill for personal use, I'll give you some advice based my experiences. I did a lot of research before my purchase and here is what came out of it. Everybody's need are a little different, so do a little research and pick the choice that fits your needs.

I wound up buying the Granberg Alaskan Mark III Mill. My purchase was based basically on price. I bought the 24" so the cost was between $150 and $200. I figured if I didn't like it, I wasn't out that much and a resale on ebay would result in a minimal loss. Luckily I was pretty pleasantly surprised.

My main focus for the mill was to build a couple of storage sheds. One would house my motorcycle; one was a garden shed and the like. I had access to some pine trees that fit the bill. I have less than $1000 in my setup including a new chainsaw, and I easily recouped my investment in the two sheds. I can't really count the entire cost of the saw, because I was about to buy a new saw for fire wood anyhow.

I bought the 24" mill because I was going to run it on a Husqvarna 359. The Husqvarna 359 is a great saw, but just not big enough to run a mill unless you're doing a very small amount of cutting. My budget allowed me to buy a Husqvarna 385XP. This saw is big enough for the amount of lumber I want to cut, but if I was cutting a lot of lumber, I'd like bigger. Don't get me wrong, I did cut a little with the 359 before my 385 arrived. For small projects, it would suffice.

As for the choice of the mill? If you have continued access for lumber logs, and plan to cut larger amount of lumber, I'd go for a band saw mill. I've cut with a band saw mill, and they are a little easier and a quite a bit faster. The biggest drawback was the need for equipment to get the log on the mill. Cost is another huge factor of course. For a decent band mill we're talking in the thousands of dollars. It's still not a bad investment, just a longer return on your investment.

Think about size when you buy. I was lucky by cutting with my 24" bar before buying a new chainsaw. The 24" Granberg Alaskan Mark III Mill will cut 21" wide. To get the 21" cut you'll need a 28" bar. You lose a little on both ends of the bar, mostly from the roller end.

Also think about the size of your logs. A 24" log sounds big, but here in the northeast, it really isn't. I've cut logs up to 38" with my mill, but it take some manual cutting to get them down to the 21". Bigger would have been better for the bigger logs, but the added weight of the mill would have been a huge drawback for me. You also start getting into the need for an added oiler, also adding to the weight and portability loss of the mill.

The main advantages of the Alaskan mill are the price and the portability. I throw it in the back of my truck, with a bucket of accessories, the gas and oil, an aluminum ladder, and off I go. I don't have to worry about a trailer, a way to get logs moved, and the mess stays in the woods. If you don't think about sawdust, think of this, with a 3/8" swath, you are grinding one 1" board for every three into sawdust. I'm not so worried about the loss of wood but the pile of sawdust in the end is much bigger than I expected. In the woods, its spread out and nature can take its course.

Depending on the size of the log, I've split them in haf with wedges, and just hand cut them forst to get them within size of the mill. It waist a little wood, but the savings makes up for it.

As for accessories, here is what I recommend. First, make yourself a couple of 2×4s for slabbing brackets. Granberg sells slabbing brackets, and to be fair I have never used them, but even a 2×4 is not high enough for a crooked log sometimes. I don't see how the commercial brackets would work well unless all of your logs are nice and straight. I cut 2 - 2×4s at 20" (that's 1" smaller then the opening in the mill) and drill 1/4" holes along the bottom. Then buy some ¼ x 4" lags. Spend the extra couple of dollars and buy a lag driver to fit your drill. The lags with the driver work *SO* much better than normal screws. It is a huge time saver.

Here is my Accessory list.

2- 21" x 2×4 
4 - ¼ x 4 lags with ¼" washers 
1- 2' level 
1 - 8" or 12" speed square (for squaring the second cut) 
1 - Framing square (for squaring the second cut on larger logs) 
1 - 3/8" drive socket with a ½" deep well socket. 
1- Dremel type chain sharpener. 
1 - Cant hook. 
1 - Hearing protection 
1- Aluminum ladder (make a wooden one if you don't have access to an aluminum ladder heavy enough) I have actually acuired another shorter aluminum ladder for logs that are 4 or 5 feet in lenght. It just makes it easier. I had to cut a bent section off (that's why I aquired it).

Next, buy a 3/8" drive Craftsman's ratchet. Make sure you get the one with the lever to flip the rotation direction. This helps when changing the height of the mill with gloves on. Also get a 1/2" deep well socket. Trust me; the wrench that comes with the mill is slow and cumbersome.

When cutting, I make the first and second cuts on all my logs at once. This helps reduce the number of times I have to adjust the height of the mill. I then cut all 4" cuts or all 6" cuts next; I then cut the 4 or 6" slabs into 2 x stock for a finished board. I then make all 1" cuts and so on.

To make the first cut, I lag my 2×4s on both ends of the log to hold my ladder, trying to make the small end cut as small and possible and the large end to get a straight cant. I use an aluminum ladder most of the time. Depending how heavy your ladder is and how log your log is, you may have to support the center. Trial and error is the best teacher. I also drive 2 lags in the top of the 2×4 to hold the ladder from sliding from side to side. I may try adding some blocking instead, but I haven't tried that yet. Its only been 5 or 6 years now, what's the hurry.

For the second cut, I square the 2×4s off of the first cut. I bought a cheap plastic 8" speed square. Its plastic, bright orange and it was cheap! When I find a cheap plastic 12" speed square, I'll buy that as well. For the larger logs I'll still use the framing square. I have thought about making a wooden square, but haven't tried that yet either.

In many of the post about the mills you will see references to the amount of work involved. I am 50 years old and work as a network engineer (not much exercise). I have however worked with a chainsaw all my life. The weight of the Husqvarna 385XP with a 28" bar, and the mill is pretty heavy. The lifting, bending pushing and pulling is pretty hard work. It is one more consideration to make for the band mill or at least the track style chainsaw mill. You lose some portability, but save a little heavy lifting. If you don't have some fairly extensive chainsaw experience, I'd stay away from the chainsaw type of mill.

I've always just sharpened my saws with a file, but quickly bought a power sharpener for lumber cutting. You have to keep the saw a lot sharper than cutting fire wood and the 28" blade holds 93 teeth. The time spent filing was pretty substantial, and the sharpener just made it easier. I also quickly learned to turn the chainsaw upside down so I didn't have to remove or readjust the mill to sharpen the saw.

If you're like me, you'll base your gas consumption on normal firewood cutting. I can cut a year's worth of 
firewood on a couple gallons of gas. Cutting lumber is totally different. I can go through 2 gallons of gas a day. The size of the log makes a big difference as well. Cutting an 8 foot log at close to full width (20" or 21") will get me about three cuts on a tank of gas. Of course it also yields a board 20" or 21" wide and 8' long. Cutting that down to a 12" cut however greatly increases its efficiency.

I haven't figured out the whole chain saw chain dilemma. I can tell you different types of chain cut differently. Rip chains work a little smoother, but the difference isn't a huge difference. If I have time to order a RIP chain I will. If not I'll buy a regular chain and as I sharpen it, straighten the angle. Gradually filing them to a 0 degree angle does help a little. The chain that came with my saw was a low kickback 30 degree chain. It cut ok, but it gave a very rough cut.

Edit: April 2012
I've upgraded to a bandsaw mill. Here are the details.
http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com/my-saw-mill/
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/34078

Hope it helps
dw


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## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

donwilwol said:


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This was a fantastic write-up of what to expect from one of these set ups. I've thought about trying this, but without a decent chainsaw already, it would be a pretty heft investment still. It might be better if I ever move to a property with a larger lot.


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## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

donwilwol said:


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DW, great write up. You nailed all of the important points including price, stress on you and your gear, tips, tricks, fuel consumption, and so forth. Lumber looks like its coming along too. In a short time you will be up to your ears in native cut lumber, it doesnt getmuch better than that.


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## northwoodsman (Feb 22, 2008)

donwilwol said:


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This is one very well written report. Wow! What a great read.


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## tctaylor79 (Apr 19, 2011)

donwilwol said:


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DW, Thanks so much for sharing your experiences with the chainsaw mill. I've been weighing my options lately and since I'm younger and have lots of time behind a saw I think I may follow your lead. Great write up.


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## rsdowdy (Aug 25, 2009)

donwilwol said:


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DW Thanks man. Great info!!!

Royal


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## DaleM (Feb 18, 2009)

donwilwol said:


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Lots of great info here. Thanks DW.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

donwilwol said:


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very nice setup! thanks for sharing. I'll have to remember this one.


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## Musgrover (Jan 10, 2011)

donwilwol said:


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thanks for the detailed info. I feel more comfortable making a decision to go ahead and purchase one.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

donwilwol said:


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I live in a town, mostly farmland around, but we do have a site when brush and trees are cut and dumped. Got a great walnut stump w/help of a kind person w/big trailer who dropped it off. Been looking at mills for awhile. Many out there. No one ever talks about the waste from cutting. Have an aquaintance who designed and built a log hauler, and atwo saw mills.

I've researched it but no real answers about real cutting widths and saw sizes. But chain saw users would have some knowledge already.

At this point I'm glad I researched it and idn'y "jump in" without thinking. LOL

I know a guy who preplanned to mill logs before retiring. Bought a saw miser,and a forklift. he now has lots of great lumber but there is a storage issue.

So, unless I move, or become "good buddies" with the people who are doing this, I'll have to buy it from them. Since I have had to go back to working at another profession.

Thanks


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

donwilwol said:


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I'm glad you linked me here Don. I've got the woodmizer catalog on my desk right now. The wm might be more than I need.


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## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

donwilwol said:


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Jealous. I want one.


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## MitchMan (Dec 20, 2011)

donwilwol said:


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Really great info, exactly what I was looking for. My Husqvarna 445 is much smaller, but Im hoping to make some narrow lumber this summer. Thanks for your details.


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## Manitario (Jul 4, 2010)

donwilwol said:


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Don, I really appreciate your write-up on this. My wife has 27 acres of treed land that we hope to build on some day…I've kicked around the idea of using one of these to mill up some of the wood, it's great to read about someone with actual practical experience with one.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

donwilwol said:


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I know this was posted almost a year ago, but I want to compliment you on the great write-up you did and the advice you gave too. It's too bad so few folks will actually get to see this. This could really help a lot of folks wanting to cut some lumber.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

donwilwol said:


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thanks for the compliments. I am thinking of upgrading to a bandsaw mill. As I grow older the husky seems to be getting heavier.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

donwilwol said:


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Yep. Stopped to see if I could handle a 20 inch Husquavara. LOL! I'm to much of a woosie!


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

donwilwol said:


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I've upgraded to a bandsaw mill. Here are the details.
http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com/my-saw-mill/
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/34078


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## Howie (May 25, 2010)

donwilwol said:


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Very informative and congrats on the upgrade. Looks like a winner.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

donwilwol said:


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I can't even get to the husquavara…LOL! Hope you make lots of saw dust and chips. Met a local guy who did what you are doing. Has a number of buildings with atr dried planks, and he had many logs waiting. It was his retirement back up! LOL! REALLY I'M JEALOUS!


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## Soundforest (Aug 17, 2010)

donwilwol said:


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I agree this has been real informative. I have been on the fence regarding a chainsaw mill, but the fact remains on my 60 acres I have to go to the tree, rather than bring the tree to a mill.
One concern I'm wondering about is oil on the milled wood from the chainsaw. Is this an issue?

Another question is: does any one experience/knowledge concerning the Norwood Portamill. Seems like a real back saver. It's limited to 14" dia, but is no problem for me since I'll mainly be cutting 12" alder or less as furniture wood


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

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Well a small bandsaw mill with a trailer could go to the trees if you have a 4 wheeler or tractor, but the cost is significantly more. I like my new bandsaw mill and its a lot faster, but the chainsaw mill served me well and it was what I could afford at the time.

I've only read about the Norwood portamill. I'm not sure of the cost, but if its close to a small bandsaw mill, go with the bandsaw.

oil on the milled wood from the chainsaw never struck me as an issue.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

donwilwol said:


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Looks like that works well.


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## WoodworkingGeek (Jan 11, 2011)

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Hey Don!!
I just finished welding me up a chain saw mill! I did some test cuts and the chain saw cut sooo slow. Even with a newer sharp chain. Do you use a ripping chain? 
Thanks


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

donwilwol said:


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A ripping chain may cut smoother, but not faster. I do use a rip chain, but only because they are the same price, so why not. I don't really see a big difference.


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## RedneckRuss (Jan 18, 2013)

donwilwol said:


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Great write up! Wish I had read your write up before I bought my Alaskan but non-the less I'm happy with my purchase. 
I started off with the Alaskan mini mill that I used with a small Husky 445, and although it did a fair job, fair was the best I could rate it (it only connected to one side of the saw). I just within the last 2 months upgraded my mini mill to the Mark III with 36" rails and bought a Stihl MS 660 Magnum, and although pricey it will get plenty of use on my parent's farm. With this setup I use Granberg ripping chain that I order from http://www.toolcenter.com/RIPPING_CHAIN.html (costs about as much as a standard chain from my local stores). I have also purchased ripping chain from www.baileysonline.com but I tend to get my chains quicker through toolcenter. The chains are a pain to sharpen but I got at least 4 cuts of 12-24" wide by 12' long of white Oak before I needed to sharpen them, and I always have at least 2 on hand when out cutting. I really like making my own lumber but hate waiting for it to air dry currently have around 50 boards air drying now. Contemplating building a solar kiln now.


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## Randy_ATX (Sep 18, 2011)

donwilwol said:


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Thanks Don. Added to favorites for future reference.


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## Dal300 (Aug 4, 2011)

donwilwol said:


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*WoodworkingGeek* I use my homemade chainsaw mill, a 50CID Poulan Pro w/28" bar and can go through a 24"x 96" red oak in less than 6 minutes. 
Are you using a full chisel chain or one of the hairy homeowner safety chains? I think Oregon calls them 'Vanguard'. They suck at cutting, but at least they don't kick back as often!


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## Randy_ATX (Sep 18, 2011)

donwilwol said:


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Dallas, do you have any photos or plans I can see? I'll poke around your home page to see if I can find it.


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## orsapod (May 31, 2016)

donwilwol said:


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Thanks for the detailed write up! Here it is five years later, and I'm just starting to toy around with an Alaskan Mill.


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## orsapod (May 31, 2016)

donwilwol said:


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The Alaskan Mills have two support points for the chainsaw, one near the motor and one near the tip. How is the bar rigid enough to support the weight of the motor without twisting the bar?

I have a Stihl Farm Boss with 25" bar. The bar and chain are both new. After a few minutes the chain started to bind. The chain is now hard to pull around by hand, whether the bar is on or off the saw. Could the weight of the motor, and the placement of that weight, somehow have twisted the bar?

What is the best way to "un-bind" the chain? Lots of tips and ideas out there!

-Steve


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

donwilwol said:


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Steve it looks pretty simple in construction. The manufactured Alaskan saw mills have a flat bar on each side of the chain saw bar. I'm wondering if you had enough bar-chain oil lubricating the chain. Heat from the chain would cause distortion in the rails.

From the pictures I'm wondering if the wooden blocks are square and true? Are they binding the blade.

You might modify your mill a bit to give the bar more support.

Take the saw to your mech to get the best analysis. Are you using a ripping chain?

Good luck.


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## RedneckRuss (Jan 18, 2013)

donwilwol said:


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to Steve: Do you have adjustable oil flow on that model? My MS 660 does and I set it to max oil flow. Also judging from the picture it looks like you're using a standard cross-cut chain, which will cut much faster, but also leave the board surface rougher. They sell Aux. Oiler Kits here http://www.granberg.com/product/aux-oiler-kit
if your problem is from over heating.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

donwilwol said:


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Also are you keeping the whole thing flat? As mentioned, the Alaskan mill bars have a T shape to clamp the bar parallel to the guide. With just a bolt and washer through the bar, I can see that doing some serious twisting.

I really never had any problems with mine, other than my body just getting older.


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## orsapod (May 31, 2016)

donwilwol said:


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Thanks for the quick responses.

I hadn't thought about the squareness of the blocks, but that makes sense. I originally figured that if they started out a little cocked, they would just stay that way and I'd have a slightly trapezoidal cross section. I'll re-cut the stacking surfaces and check their alignment. I also may look for a more rigid backing than just a washer and bolt.

As far as I can tell, the Stihl Farm Boss does not have adjustable oil flow. I'll re-read the manual to make sure. There may also be some oil passages that are blocked, but if they are it is in the bar. The original 20" blade spits out the usual oil spray.

I am using a standard cross-cut chain. I'm not worried about smoothness at this point, since all of my previous work was done by "eyeball and Kentucky windage!" See pics below for some laughs.

Don, I appreciate your comment, "I really never had any problems with mine, other than my body just getting older." I'm 57, but my brain tells me I'm 37 and my body tells me I'm 77. 

Thanks again. The responses give me the confidence that I'm in the ballpark.

Here's some pics of my "slab by eyeball" method:


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## orsapod (May 31, 2016)

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I think the problem with the chain is oil. Spent some time with the chain and bar last night. There looked like there were some burrs on the inside of the groove, at the top of the rails. The sketch below is exaggerated, but it shows the location. I got rid of the burrs, and the chain pulled around smoothly. But after a minute of running, it bound up again and the burrs returned.

The oil hole is clear, but there isn't much sign of oil. No initial spray when the trigger is pulled. When I put teh 20" bar and chain back on, it all worked well - oil spray as expected. So looks like something in the 25" bar. Hope to take it into the shop today and have the Stihl guy look at it.


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