# Oak Boat Bed



## wwbeds (Jul 1, 2007)

*The Toy Box Bow*

Oak may not be a popular boat building material in the real world, but in my world it make a beautiful bed. I've been working on a boat bed for the last couple days now. Most of them that I build are painted and I build them out of a combination of Maple MDF and pine. This customer, however, wants their in oak. I have built one before and that example (see oak example) is what the customer sew and wanted. I'm even going to do the same color scheme.

I framed out the bow of the boat. This will be a toy box. In the back bulkhead (like my boat terminology?), I cut in air vents, for that situation where big brother might stuff the little brother in there. Not writing from experience even though I wanted to as we were growing up. 


I use a template to cut the top and bottom shapes. This is a template that I developed on the first on. I now have one for twin, full, and queen.

The ribs are placed in for support and then a bending plywood skin is placed over it. I cut the plywood a little big and then trim off with a laminate bit on the router and hand planes. 


For more building pictures see my Current Projects link at wwbeds.com or poggyskids.com. See what we are doing live:


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## Robsshop (Apr 3, 2010)

wwbeds said:


> *The Toy Box Bow*
> 
> Oak may not be a popular boat building material in the real world, but in my world it make a beautiful bed. I've been working on a boat bed for the last couple days now. Most of them that I build are painted and I build them out of a combination of Maple MDF and pine. This customer, however, wants their in oak. I have built one before and that example (see oak example) is what the customer sew and wanted. I'm even going to do the same color scheme.
> 
> ...


Very nice looking work and the whole Boat Bed concept is a very cool theme ! A few questions, 1) with that size of toy box lid and some considerable weight, what do You use for lid supports(if any) 2) I haven't used bendable plywood, is it pretty easy to work with and what is the cost compared to standard ply ? Once again, Your work and finished product is impressive,thanks for sharing !........ROB


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## wwbeds (Jul 1, 2007)

wwbeds said:


> *The Toy Box Bow*
> 
> Oak may not be a popular boat building material in the real world, but in my world it make a beautiful bed. I've been working on a boat bed for the last couple days now. Most of them that I build are painted and I build them out of a combination of Maple MDF and pine. This customer, however, wants their in oak. I have built one before and that example (see oak example) is what the customer sew and wanted. I'm even going to do the same color scheme.
> 
> ...


1. Full size so it is about 56" wide. Two spring loaded lid supports from Custom Service Hardware.
2. Yes it is easy to work with. Very porous so you have to fill the grain before painting. When painting I sand and use a drywall mud. I am sanding this one and applying an oak veneer. Not expensive. I think it is in the $30 range.

Thanks for the comment!


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## Robsshop (Apr 3, 2010)

wwbeds said:


> *The Toy Box Bow*
> 
> Oak may not be a popular boat building material in the real world, but in my world it make a beautiful bed. I've been working on a boat bed for the last couple days now. Most of them that I build are painted and I build them out of a combination of Maple MDF and pine. This customer, however, wants their in oak. I have built one before and that example (see oak example) is what the customer sew and wanted. I'm even going to do the same color scheme.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the response back !!


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## wwbeds (Jul 1, 2007)

*The Headboard*

When coming up with a design for the boats headboard for the first time I wanted more like a bookcase headboard. Something more then just a flat headboard. What I did was take a simple bookcase headboard, one like I'd use on a captain's bed, and tilt it back a little. To give it more of a nautical look, I cut portholes across the top and then some larger ones in the sides.

*Building Picture*


*Raw Video of the build*
http://www.ustream.tv/embed/recorded/20512542

Video streaming by Ustream

For more building pictures see my Current Projects link at wwbeds.com or poggyskids.com. See what we are doing live:


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## wwbeds (Jul 1, 2007)

*Toy Box Lid*

Continuing on the boat bed project, I have to now make a lid for the toy box.

First I trace the shape of the toy box onto a 1/2" material. Rough cut it, screw it down and then use a trimming bit on the router to trim it flush. I use some templates that I made a few years ago to make the trim. I'll then use a rabbiting bit and cut a groove in the inside of the trim the thickness of the bead board. A round over is used on the top edges.

I put together two of the three sides of the trim using a Festool Domonio. Leaving the bottom trim loose I trace the design onto my bead board. Cut the bead board and then put it all together.

*Here are some building pictures*
click any picture to see more




For more building pictures see my Current Projects link at wwbeds.com or poggyskids.com. See what we are doing live:


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## wwbeds (Jul 1, 2007)

*Applying the Veneer*

Unlike my normal boat bed, this one will not be painted. It will be built in oak. Using oak on most of the project is, for the most part, straight forward. Not much different the using the maple and MDF on the painted version, until we come to the Bow of the Boat (AKA the toy box).

Since we have a curved bow, a veneer must be used over the bending plywood. In prepping, I make sure all my staples are driven. I also fill all staple holes and imperfections with Bondo. This will keep those voids form telegraphing through the veneer.

After the veneer is sanded the veneer is applied. Since I don't have a vacuum system, I'll use a contact cement to apply the veneer. I double coat both the bow and the veneer and let them dry until they are tacky. With the contact cement there is not second chance. Once it is stuck it is there. I lay down some cardboard on the bow to keep the veneer from sticking prematurely. Once I am satisfied with the position, one at a time I pull out the cardboard pieces and stick the pieces. Once everything is down. I used a J-roller to press it down securely.

The veneer is trimmed with a router and cleaned up with a file and sand paper.

*Pictures of the veneer*
(click the picture to see Current Projects)


For more building pictures see my Current Projects link at wwbeds.com or poggyskids.com. See what we are doing live:


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## wwbeds (Jul 1, 2007)

*The Finish*

I got it built and ready for the finish. The customer requested that we do a two tone color. They really want it exactly like the saw on our web site (see example). I tweaked the colors a little bit but for the most part it is standard Minwax colors (see color chart). I used Red Chestnut and Golden Pecan.

When using stain you can not tape off. There is not way to get a crisp line. You'll always have some bleeding. I just had to stain parts as separate pieces and assemble them later. A good example of that would be the side rails. The cap is a different color. We stained them a part and attached it after the finish dried. Nail holes were filled with finishing putty.

The clear used was a medium sheen pre-catalyzed Lacquer. One coat of sealer and one for the final coat.

*See Finished Project*


For more building pictures see my Current Projects link at wwbeds.com or poggyskids.com. See what we are doing live:


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