# I need help disassembling a Rockwell 100 M Router (1969 vintage)



## Dids (Jun 7, 2010)

I recently bought a a Rockwell 110M Router that looks like it was made in the late 60s. The power cord is a UL nightmare and needs to be replaced. It comes out of the dome top with a spring coil around the first 4 inches to protect wear. I removed the collett and then removed two screws that go up opposite sides and secure the dome to the barrel. The the problem is that I cannot seem to remove the large nut into which the collett screws. I don't see how to secure the shaft so that I can twist off the nut. Amy suggestions?


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

a picture of your router and your isue wooood bee niiice

then its easyer to help you

Dennis


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## iamawsome (Apr 1, 2011)

I am having this same problem with Rockwell 100-M router. I've had it for 5 yrs now and its slowly been going out until it finally stopped. Did you ever have any luck getting your apart, if yes, how?


> ?


? Its a great router and i would love to get it fixed.


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## Dids (Jun 7, 2010)

I have to do as Dennis says and take some good pictures, but so far nothing I have tried has worked. I post some pictures this week.


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## disciple_dan (Aug 6, 2011)

Hello everyone, I'm so glad to be part of this community. I know I will find much help here and I hope I will be able to help someone as well. I have two Rockwell 100-m routers. I too am having a problem getting it apart.I don't think the 13/16 nut has to come off of the shaft. When I took the screws out, the housing did not bind against it. The Housing feels as if it needs to unscrew from the each other. Not sure. I don't give so I will be back soon with an answer. If anyone hears anything in the mean time I'll be watching. Danny.


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

Dids ….. what about those pictures 
or if you have solve the problem then it still wuold be nice to see some picture sekvens 
of how you did it 

Dennis


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## logdawg (Dec 13, 2012)

anybody have any luck on diassembling the rockwell router 100M, need to replace the power cord on mine as well, was making final pass and sparks burst out where cord goes into the spring. I can twist the dome portion but it seems that there is something holding it on.

logdawg


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## kizerpea (Dec 2, 2011)

every ones got one of these routers…someone post a pic ?


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

2 1/2 year old problem? Have you got a crappy router bit that you can sacrifice? I'd chuck one in and hold it with vise grips while you try to unscrew the collet nut. Not sure you need to though, your router should be similar to this:

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/porter-cable-1002-type-router-parts-c-129_1672_1935.html


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## logdawg (Dec 13, 2012)

the problem is getting the upper housing dome cover off, I have removed the screws from lower housing that go into the dome shaped upper housing where the brushes and switch are. I have removed the brushes, and can rotate the lower and upper housings, I do not need to remove the collet nut just the upper housing, leary of prying it up or beating on it. will get some pictures and post tomorrow

LogDawg


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

Remember that the armature is press fit into bearings at each end which are also press fit to the outer housings (the upper cap, for one), so you have to drive them apart. You may have to use a large dowl and rap on the collet or an old bit upward toward the cap with a rubber mallet. If you had access to an arbor press that would make life easier.


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## logdawg (Dec 13, 2012)

Okay, will give it some love taps and see if there is any movement. Thanks

LogDawg


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## logdawg (Dec 13, 2012)

okay here's pic's of Porter Cable 100-m Motor, 2 screws go up thru bottom housing into the domed upper housing, there are no screws from the domed housing going down. with 2 screws removed the upper and lower housings rotate freely. any suggestions on how to seperate the 2 parts with out damage?

Log Dawg


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## disciple_dan (Aug 6, 2011)

Hello Log Dwag, I fix my router awhile back. I hope this method will work for you also. You can reach me at [email protected] if you you have any questions. 
Thanks Max. Well, I was asking about the Rockwell 100-m Router a few hours ago while I was trying to replace a bad power cord on mine. I got it done but, I must say it was extremely difficult. I had to study long and hard to figure out how to take it apart. Putting it back together was the real chore. Unless you are really attached to yours, I really don't think its worth fixing. Although, it didn't cost me one dime. After you take out the two obvious screws from the collet end, look in through fan blade on the same end, inside under the fan blade. There are two more screws adjacent the obvious ones. There really hard to see and even harder to get at. Make sure and loosen them all the way and it is ready to come apart. The bearing is pressed into the housing and is difficult to free up. I used the wooden handle of a hammer to tap on the extruded brush housings while holding the cylinder and the end with the brushes and power switch come off. It's best to take the brushes out first. When you put it back together, watch to make sure the wires are clear of the armature. Well, that's the way it is, 8-6-2011. Jesus loves you and so do I. Danny.


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## logdawg (Dec 13, 2012)

okay, got it apart, put an old bit in collet and tightened collet nut, stuck the collet nut in a viceand used a rubber mallet on the bushing ears, couple of light taps and it can apart. saw the 2 screws that you were talking about, mine came apart at bearingand armature shaft. so now just need to rewire and reassemble.
Thanks for everyones help and input!

Log Dawg


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## disciple_dan (Aug 6, 2011)

I knew you could do it, Log Dawg. Those are very good routers. It should give you many more years of service. Hope you have a Merry Christmas and a great New Year.

disciple_dan


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

You may want to replace the bearings now, maybe 6 or 7 dollars each. And if it isn't already I'd make it a grounded plug. Good luck.


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## lefljaro (Nov 5, 2013)

My grandpa bought me a Rockwell 1002 at an auction for a dollar. He hand-made new handles for it on his wood lathe. I have used it for a bunch of projects, but I've now run into the same faulty cord issue as everyone else in this thread.

DiscipleDan, your instructions are pretty good except for this line about the second set of screws:

"There really hard to see and even harder to get at. Make sure and loosen them all the way and it is ready to come apart."

CAUTION TO ANYONE TRYING TO DO THIS REPAIR. THIS INSTRUCTION IS WRONG AND COULD CAUSE DAMAGE. Removing the first two screws is all that is necessary to dismantle the unit.

Here are my step by step instructions on how to disassemble a Rockwell 1002 (Porter-Cable 100-M). Once you can see inside the guts, electrical repair will become straightforward, though it is quite tedious.

1 - Remove the Brushes from the motor. 
2 - Remove the two obvious screws at the base, as indicated by the red arrows below.










3 - Clamp the collet into a vice as shown.










4 - Grab hold of the upper portion. Wiggle from side to side while you lift upwards. The unit should come apart fairly easily. If the unit is being stubborn, a mallot can be used. I recommend tapping sides alternately. Tapping just one side will only jam the bearing worse. Resulting two pieces shown below.



















You'll notice that the screws DiscipleDan mentioned are now easily accessible. You'll also notice in the second image that there are some sort of spring terminal electrical connections wrapped around the brass brush tubes, as indicated by blue arrows. These are very fragile. The reason you don't want to finagle a screwdriver into the unit to remove the screws before taking the unit apart is because it loosens the stator from the housing. What could happen (as it unfortunately did for me) is that when you finally manage to heave the top portion off, your moment of glorious success will by ruined when the stator falls out and stretches those poor little springs beyond their elastic limit.

This router, like most things built in the 60's, is a dead simple yet robust design. The only part that seems to be a common failure point is that poor cord. Taking the time to install a new power cord through a nice 90Deg cable grip will make this tool last for generations. Good luck!


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## Califia (Aug 4, 2017)

Lefljaro's post was a lifesaver about the brush housing springs. U was just about to make that same mistake and would have damaged the springs.

However, how should I proceed after that problem is avoided? Can the springs be removed from the brush housing by simply pulling them off the end or is there another connection issue and a built in booby trap to a simple cord replacement? If the spring is carefully removed can the two "hidden" screws be removed and the top half be further disassembled? Then there is the cord grommet under the spring strain relief that looks like it will be a problem to remove in one piece. I have gotten this far without damaging the router and want to continue with the repair. If I can manage to replace the cord I will be also replacing the lower bearing and the two long machine screws that holds everything together. One of the two screws took some persuasion to loosen.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

I love it when way old threads get revived 

I've been keeping an eye out for a PC100 for quite some time now… those old R2D2 routers are real workhorses and will last several lifetimes. I thought I found one a few weeks ago - it was listed as a PC100 "with attachments". Alas, when I got there, it was a vintage B&D router in a PC100-B base, but it did come with the PC100-P planer attachment, grinding attachment and the original PC100-DK (Door kit) metal case. I really have no need for the planer attachment and other stuff, so will most likely just sell it off on e-bay, and continue my search. The B&D router is destined to become an over-arm router mounted in an old RAS.










Cheers,
Brad


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## DDWW (Sep 7, 2016)

I know this is old but since I just had to replace the bearings in my rockwell 100m I"l post what I did.

There were only two long screws that released the inside core of the motor attached to the collet with a bearing on the end above a copper piece where the brushes would rest called the commutator.

In order to release the collet from the housing I drilled a hole 1 1/4" diameter in a piece of ply, and split that in two. I put it around the Commutator and put it in a machinists vise and It allowed me to wrench off the collet.

I could then pull the motor core right out, it had the smaller bearing that rests in the domed motor on it and I removed that using Jacob wedges used to remove drill press chucks. There are lots of ways to get this one off another is a windshield wiper pull or a two jaw bearing puller.

In the metal base on the collet side the bearing must be removed from in side. First you have to remove the snap ring. Its worth having the tool for this so find a cheap one. once the clip is removed. You flip it over so the bearing is at the top and you find a socket that will fit inside the hole where the collet was and you gently tap down and the bearing will pop right out.

To replace this bearing I keep the new bearing in my cold work shop and the base in my warm house. It dropped right in place and held fast in about 2 seconds.


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