# Table saw arbor nut loosening with dado stack



## unclearthur (Jul 4, 2013)

I've had a couple of strange experiences with my TS; hopefully someone can enlighten me on whats going on.

I recently bought a Grizzly 0690 tablesaw. A few days ago I was using a dado stack on it, and at the end of the cut, after I turned the saw off, there was a plunk and the stack just freespun for a minute. The arbor nut had fallen completely off.

I had been using quite a wide stack with shims etc, and I assumed that I had setup something crooked or whatever.

Today, I was using the dado again, 1/2" dado (just two blades and 2 chippers). I double checked that it was all tight, chippers at 90 degrees, etc before tightening the arbor nut. Made a cut. Basically the same thing happened; the nut coming completely loose.

In both cases the cut was OK, but the nut came loose I guess when the saw was turned off and the blade brakes.

Its a freud dado stack which I've had for over 10 years. 5/8" arbor size.

I've not had any problems with the regular blade on the Grizzly. I also never had a problem using the dado stack on my old contractor saw (which was right tilt, if that matters).

The dado blades all look in OK shape, flat, not anything obviously wrong.

I must be doing something stupid, but I'm not sure what. Any thoughts appreciated.


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

Hi *unca'*, not being an engineer but rather a cautious woodworker with still 10 fingers, I can only postulate a solution.

I will assume that the dado's bore and arbor are compatible (I could only imagine that would unbalance the wheel's rotation and exert undue forces), however, unless my dislexia has just cut in, I believe the rotation of the blade should have the tendency to tighten the nut rather than loosen it.

If you are confident that the blades (and shims if used) are properly seated and snug against each other put a scrap piece of timber on the saw and make a sacrificial cut. The go test the nut. If it is loose after just 1 cut I would put it down to a mounting issue or as you suggested "braking forces". If you then tighten it and make another sacrificial cut and it's loose again then maybe the "braking" may have some weight to it (no pun intended). If it is still tight and becomes loose after prolonged use I'm lost and can only suggest giving up woodworking and taking up knitting… just watch those sharp points… from a distance. Just kidding, I have no other suggestion other than regularly check the status of the nut and try to associate any obvious alteration to your previous activity. This may be a pain but well worth the effort to try to isolate the cause.

I have used many different types of dados and so far none has turned me into a dodo.

Good luck.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

Try using just the nut and not the washer when using the dado set. You should see arbor threads through the nut.


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## clin (Sep 3, 2015)

> ... unless my dislexia has just cut in, I believe the rotation of the blade should have the tendency to tighten the nut rather than loosen it.
> 
> - LittleBlackDuck


When the blade is cutting the forces are trying to tighten the nut. On the other hand, if the motor were to slow down fast (and you all keep mentioning a brake?), then the momentum of the blade would try to spin the blade and loosen the nut.

I'm not aware of any brake on a TS, but I'm no expert. My experience is the motor and blade take quite a long time to come to a stop.

I'm with pinto, I'm wondering if the nut is being threaded on far enough. While a 1/2" dado is not that large, the washers are usually really thick and in general I don't think are used when using a dado stack.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

> I'm not aware of any brake on a TS, but I'm no expert. My experience is the motor and blade take quite a long time to come to a stop.


I can spin the blade off my TS when powering down if I want (which I don't!)... I just set the deacceleration time to a couple of seconds or less 

AFAIK, that griz just has a pretty standard TEFC motor and there is no mechanical brake involved… although a lot of people hear the centrifugal switch closing down and mistake that noise as a brake. Depending on age, it may be slowing down faster than normal due to bearings, but they would have to be pretty bad to effect it enough to spin the blade off.

Cheers,
Brad


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## unclearthur (Jul 4, 2013)

In both cases the nut was definitely fully on the threads, as the arbor is long enough, even when using the arbor flange (washer). So I'm not sure why I wouldn't want to use the arbor flange?

"Brake" may be poor terminology, but when I turn off the saw the blade comes to a full stop within 3-4 seconds; something is causing the deceleration, and that I guess exerts some counter-clockwise (ie loosening) force on the arbor flange/nut. But that would happen every time you turn the saw off ….. shouldn't loosen the nut.


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## Carloz (Oct 12, 2016)

> I'm not aware of any brake on a TS, but I'm no expert. My experience is the motor and blade take quite a long time to come to a stop.
> 
> I can spin the blade off my TS when powering down if I want (which I don t!)... I just set the deacceleration time to a couple of seconds or less
> 
> ...


Never heard of mechanical brakes on induction motors although I asuume there are some somewhere. The common and cheap way to brake induction motor is by induction not friction.


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

*WHOA GUYS, yank on the bridle, ease up on the spurs and rein in those hosses… *
Sorry for the confusion… That is why I put *"brake"* in inverted commas… I was inferring to a braking effect through motor resistance against forces/motion in affect. If I didn't quote all my references to *brake* I again apologise.

*WoodN'* said *blade brakes *in his intro post and I just *"pit bulled"* on that statement.

*PS.* Dog lovers and pit bull owners need not reply


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

Check the tension of your belts….sounds like they might be too tight if the blade stops within 3-4 seconds of shut down.


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## hairy (Sep 23, 2008)

Did you buy the saw new? If someone over tightened the arbor nut, threads on the nut would strip, not the shaft.


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

I have had that happen. It is because one or more of the shims has dropped into the threads and is preventing you from fully tightening the stack. It will feel like it is tight, but as soon as the stack starts moving the whole thing loosens up. It happens most when using those really thin shims, I try to avoid using them or replace them with playing cards which work just as well but don't bind in the threads.


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## ohtimberwolf (Dec 17, 2011)

Puzzling because it happened with and without shims.


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## Carloz (Oct 12, 2016)

The direction of the threads assumes tightening as the blade rotates. If it loosens the only reason you did not install the blades and chippers correctly. After you put the stack on "shake it up" to ensure all surfaces are flat and tight against each other. Often chippers catch on the threads even if you do not use shims


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## unclearthur (Jul 4, 2013)

> Check the tension of your belts….sounds like they might be too tight if the blade stops within 3-4 seconds of shut down.
> 
> - knotscott


That's an interesting comment because I had a different issue with the saw: when I first got it, when I'd start it (especially the first time in a day) it would take several seconds to come up to full speed. I asked Grizzly about it (and sent them a video), and after checking that the start-up capacitor was OK they decided the belts were too loose. We tightened those as much as I could and the problem was still there. They then advised:

The saw would typically only start like your machine for a few reasons. First, the bearings in the motor and/or blade arbor are to too tight at cooler temperatures. The start capacitor is weak. Or, the belts being loose or slipping, which they are not based on the videos.

The capacitor looked to be in good condition, but there is a possibility that it is still defective. Providing the overload is not tripping during startup, what you are experiencing is likely to not be harmful to the saw. At this point, we would recommend monitoring the table saw as the weather gets warmer and let us know if you have any other issues.

Since then the start-up issue has got better (it has also got warmer here) but is still sometimes noticeable.

Here is a video I made today of starting / stopping. Anything look strange to you? Is the blade stopping faster than normal?

Could "tight bearings or arbor" be causing both problems? ie - slow startup and too abrupt stopping? If so, do you think that improves on its own over time or do I need to do something?

Thanks for any advice


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## unclearthur (Jul 4, 2013)

> Did you buy the saw new? If someone over tightened the arbor nut, threads on the nut would strip, not the shaft.
> 
> - hairy


The saw was bought new, and I think the threads look OK. The nut hasn't come loose when using the regular blade.



> I have had that happen. It is because one or more of the shims has dropped into the threads and is preventing you from fully tightening the stack. It will feel like it is tight, but as soon as the stack starts moving the whole thing loosens up. It happens most when using those really thin shims, I try to avoid using them or replace them with playing cards which work just as well but don t bind in the threads.
> 
> - bondogaposis


Thats what I thought as well, but it happened again when I was not using any shims.


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## papadan (Mar 6, 2009)

UncleArthur, are you using any oil or grease in your dado stack? All parts should be clean and dry.


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## builtinbkyn (Oct 29, 2015)

Something just doesn't look right there, aside from how the blade stops pretty quickly. Have you checked the flange and washer to see if they have burrs? Checked how much runnout there is on the arbor? When it's in the stopping motion it looks like there's a wobble. Maybe that's just a trick of the camera, but it did appear that way.


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## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Is the dado stack thickness too thick for the arbor shaft?

Spec is 13/16" max dado.

M


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## Kazooman (Jan 20, 2013)

> Is the dado stack thickness too thick for the arbor shaft?
> 
> Spec is 13/16" max dado.
> 
> ...


He said 1/2". He also said the nut was fully on the arbor. I agree, that too thick a stack can lead to too few threads of the nut on the arbor, but that doesn't seem to be the case here. Good suggestion, bu not the solution, I am afraid.


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## unclearthur (Jul 4, 2013)

> UncleArthur, are you using any oil or grease in your dado stack? All parts should be clean and dry.
> 
> - papadan


All clean and dry …... I even just tried brushing the arbor and nut with a brass brush but basically it all seems grease free as far as I can see.



> Something just doesn t look right there, aside from how the blade stops pretty quickly. Have you checked the flange and washer to see if they have burrs? Checked how much runnout there is on the arbor? When it s in the stopping motion it looks like there s a wobble. Maybe that s just a trick of the camera, but it did appear that way.
> 
> - builtinbkyn


No burrs. When I set the saw up I checked the runout and thought it was OK, don't remember exactly how much variation. Haven't re-checked. Your right about the "wobble" but I've never known how to interpret that…..........

The nut just came loose again, this time with the regular blade (not the dado set). Bit scary actually. So I'm really dumfounded …..how hard do you tighten your arbor nuts on these saws? I've always been told not to overtighten ….... and never once had a problem on my contractor (lower hp) saw.

Here's 3 pics of the arbor, flange and nut. Anyone see anything strange? Just to be sure, the way I have shown the nut and flange together in the last pic is how they go on the saw, right? Can't see any other sensible way.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

I'd send that video to Grizzly's tech service and see what they have to say. It's a bit slow to start, and very quick to stop. Sounds a bit sloppy on startup too.

BTW, you and your saw deserve a better blade than what's on there.


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## runswithscissors (Nov 8, 2012)

Blade seems to be stopping much too quickly. The mass of a dado stack could easily unwind the nut by stopping that fast. The fact that just the blade alone is stopping so quickly indicates something is definitely not right. In fact, with a heavy dado stack, the run down should take a lot longer than with the regular blade.


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## clin (Sep 3, 2015)

I agree, stopping unusually fast. Dado stack has more mass and therefore more momentum, so as the arbor slows too quickly there is more nut-unscrewing-force (NUF). Buy the way I just invented that term.

I'm sure the TS experts here can elaborate on what is wrong. Though being new, it should be on Grizzly to sort this out for you.

I also heard quite a rumble when you started the saw. Maybe bearings are bad. I know it's new, but maybe somehow they got damaged. Your average worker is not going to admit to having dropped an assembly. "Still looks okay, still spins. I'll go ahead and put it in".

I know with my saw (not a Grizzly) I can brew a pot of coffee in the time it takes to come to a stop. Well, maybe not quite that long.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

I agree with knotscott, send it to Grizzly, something is definitely not right with the slow start up and rapid deceleration when turned off. The motor, motor bearings, belts or arbor bearings are causing the excessively quick stop and the inertia carried be the blade(s) are loosening the nut as a result. It could be a combination of two or more of those problems. If I were attempting diagnosis independent of what Grizzly said, I would first remove the belts (after removing the blade) and see if the motor turns freely (with the saw unplugged) then check the arbor in the same way. Then turn the motor on to see how it behaves with no belts installed and note any differences. It almost seems like it has an issue switching from the start winding to the run winding or something is bound up. In the video I did notice the blade stops and the belts don't find their set on the pulleys at the very last blade rotation like virtually every other belt drive saw I've ever seen. The blade stops as if a disc caliper is applied and very little movement occurs especially the third stop.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

If you put a blade on and tighten it and it won't spin with just a little pressure then something isn't right. And if it requires force then something is definitely wrong.


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## unclearthur (Jul 4, 2013)

OK thanks everyone, I will contact Grizzly again and see what they say.

By the way, I tried one more time with the dado setup, being 1,000% careful on the setup, and the nut loosened again after one cut. Too dangerous! Not trying again.

Made another video for Grizzly as well, and you can hear quite a clunk a second or so after the saw is turned off. Probably not a good sign either.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

How does it turn by hand?


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## Carloz (Oct 12, 2016)

I too think that the belt tension is too high. Remove the belt and try rotating both arbor with a blade and the motor. Both should spin freely. If not then you know where to look.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

The loud clunk sounds like the centrifugal closing and allowing the start winding to brake the motor faster than normal, which some motors are predisposed to as a function of design. It still seems like it's taking too long to get going and slowing too quickly independent of that behaviour.


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## unclearthur (Jul 4, 2013)

> How does it turn by hand?
> 
> - TheFridge


It seems to turn OK by hand, no particular binding points anyways. Don't really have much to compare it to. Haven't taken the belts off; going to wait for grizzly.

You guys really know a lot about motors / saws ….... thanks for all the comments.

Q. Previously Grizzly indicated the temperature in the shop could be an issue ….. lately its around 60 F during the day, cooler at night. Surely that can't be so unusual? I shouldn't have to heat a garage to 70 F just to operate a tablesaw?


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## EricTwice (Dec 9, 2016)

I have a powermatic with a similar problem. The motor stops the arbor and the heavy blade pushes the nut loose as it slows to a stop. The blade turns free on the arbor and can take a long time to stop. It can be unnerving.

Had to replace the arbor because the loose blade damaged it, but never had a problem with the cut of the blade or the blade actually coming off the arbor.

The only solution I have is to tighten the blade really tight.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

A motor that requires those temperature constraints is new to me. I'm not even sure if you'd have to way over engineer or get extremely sloppy to get to that point.


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

> ..... I shouldn t have to heat a garage to 70°F just to operate a tablesaw?
> 
> - unclearthur


No *unca'*, But it would be more comfortable to wait for that Grizzly feedback.



> ...., Too dangerous! Not trying again.
> 
> - unclearthur


Good decision. From what I've heard, seen and if you tried the suggestions from the forum, it reeks of a* mechanical fault*. If it is under warranty, Grizzly should replace or fix, and if not, they should come up with a definitive solution.

*PS.* Theoretically it should not matter, however, what dado set do you use? I was going to say a video of the dado would have been good, but with your decision "Not trying again" is a sensible move.


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## unclearthur (Jul 4, 2013)

> *PS.* Theoretically it should not matter, however, what dado set do you use? I was going to say a video of the dado would have been good, but with your decision "Not trying again" is a sensible move.
> 
> - LittleBlackDuck


Its a freud dado set which I've used for years on my old contractor saw with no problem. But the problem occurred also yesterday with a regular blade; basically, I think the nut loosens with the regular blade unless I really tighten the nut excessively, and loosens in any case with the dado blade, presumably due to its heavier weight.

Too much potential for damage to blades, insert etc to try again with the dado as when the nut loosens on shutdown the blades just spin and slide around for quite a while. Already put a ding in the dado insert. Not a very nice feeling.


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## Picken5 (Jan 12, 2011)

For what it's worth, I bought that same TS about 2 years ago. I have a Diablo dado set (which is made by Freud) that I've used dozens of times and never had an issue. The only issue I've had with tightening and loosening the arbor nut is that the stamped steel arbor wrenches that came with the saw seemed to be bending a bit. (I think I have a tendency to tighten the arbor nut pretty tight.) I've replaced the wrenches with forged ones. But I've never had a blade (dado or otherwise) come loose. The blade on my saw comes to a full stop much slower than yours does -
about 7.5 to 8 seconds after I hit the off button.


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## DaleM (Feb 18, 2009)

I just watched both of the videos you posted and can say without a doubt that it should not stop that fast. I have my own table saw and we have five at work plus two portable ones that I have been using for years and none of them or any others that I have used come to a stop like that. They all just wind down very slowly. They take so long that I get impatient if I'm waiting to change a blade or take a measurement. If it's not just the belt being too tight, then it's got to be the bearings or motor, so it sounds like it's something Grizzly needs to fix.


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## hairy (Sep 23, 2008)

Do you have room to get a torque wrench in there? If it won't torque, it's stripped.

The 5/8" arbor nut on my Unisaw takes a 7/8" wrench. Your manual says you have a 5/8" arbor.

https://www.imperialsupplies.com/pdf/A_FastenerTorqueCharts.pdf

Your nut may or may not be on this chart, check first.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

I would think you would damage something if you tried to torque a 5/8 arbor to the same value as you would a typical bolt. I don't think the arbor washer is meant to be that tight. Especially since it is belled.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

> I would think you would damage something if you tried to torque a 5/8 arbor to the same value as you would a typical bolt. I don t think the arbor washer is meant to be that tight. Especially since it is belled.
> 
> - TheFridge


Too much torque can also distort the blade. Since they spin in the direction of self tightening, they really dont need to be too tight.


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## hairy (Sep 23, 2008)

I agree with all that. It's not a standard nut, that's why I advised further research into that, but I'm sure it has a torque value. If I was troubleshooting my saw with that problem, I would start at the simplest most likely to fail part.

Once the blade is stopped, can you turn the nut off by hand ? That could rule out the nut. Any damage to the threads on the arbor?


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## unclearthur (Jul 4, 2013)

> Once the blade is stopped, can you turn the nut off by hand ? That could rule out the nut. Any damage to the threads on the arbor?
> 
> - hairy


When the nut loosens it becomes completely loose, even falling of the arbor before the blade stops. If I tighten it down a lot (on a normal blade, not the dado) then it stays tight, but is then actually quite hard to loosen. I think the threads on the nut and arbor are OK, though I'm probably risking damaging them by tightening the nut so much. But its that or risk having the nut come loose or not use the saw.


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

Every indication points to a motor that is stopping too fast. This could be caused by a bad capacitor that is producing a greater than normal back EMF. An ampere check of the motor both when starting and stopping may shed more light on the phennomium.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

> It seems to turn OK by hand, no particular binding points anyways. Don't really have much to compare it to. Haven't taken the belts off; going to wait for grizzly.


Given that you previously said you tightened the belts up as much as possible, which is not a good idea, I'd pull the belts and spin both the motor and arbor by hand. That will at least point you in the right direction as to if the problem is the belts, arbor or motor. Troubleshooting is simply a matter of eliminating possibilities until you find the culprit. I also believe Grizzly steered you wrong in suggesting you tighten the belts. Properly adjusted, those belts will appear way too loose to most people.

Cheers,
Brad


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

I have the Grizzly 1023 3 hp model. I bought the saw new in Dec 2012. I just timed my saw as it shut down. (Start up is basically instant.)
Shut down took 21 seconds. I heard the clunk at the 11 second mark.

That was with the Irwin Marples 50 tooth blade that I use most all of the time.
Hope this helps.
Mike


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## Kazooman (Jan 20, 2013)

Ah, a "you show me your's I'll show you mine" thread.

Sawstop 3hp PCS, Forrest Woodworker II blade. Shut-off to dead stop time 6.0 seconds. No clunks here. Repeated.


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## DirtyMike (Dec 6, 2015)

Belt tension is the culprit and a less than perfect motor was the start of your problem.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

> Shut down took 21 seconds. I heard the clunk at the 11 second mark.
> - MT_Stringer


That is excessively long… Sounds like your bearings have about had it.

Cheers,
Brad


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

> Shut down took 21 seconds. I heard the clunk at the 11 second mark.
> - MT_Stringer
> 
> That is excessively long… Sounds like your bearings have about had it.
> ...


Thanks for the thought but I am not the one having problems.  I don't think I have used the saw enough to wear anything out.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

> Thanks for the thought but I am not the one having problems.  I don t think I have used the saw enough to wear anything out.
> - MT_Stringer


Just saying 

A lot of people think that if they can spin something and it keeps spinning for a while, they are good to go… when in reality, that is an indication of a bearing that has either lost grease or it has turned to wax. A good bearing should only spin maybe a couple of revolutions when free-spun due to the resistance of the grease. A typical table saw should take about 10 seconds or less to spin down unless a high-inertia blade (like a dado stack) is being used. That, and Grizzly is notorious for using really cheap bearings. It is not unusual to see them needing to be replaced after a relatively short period of time, even with infrequent use. YMMV.

Cheers,
Brad


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## unclearthur (Jul 4, 2013)

This is the original video I sent to Grizzly a month ago, before they had me tighten the belts. At that time my problem was that the blade seemed to be starting up very slowly (Not having a cabinet saw before, I initially assumed that they must have some sort of "slow start" feature, LOL, until seeing a video online of a proper saw).

Anyways, you can see the stopping time was still pretty fast even before the belts were tightened, so the problem is likely one of the other things you have mentioned.


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## unclearthur (Jul 4, 2013)

Grizzly just told me to basically take a video of the arbor nut coming loose with the dado stack on. Fat chance I'm going to sit their with my camera 12" away from the blades knowing that the arbor nut is going to come loose. Haven't these guys ever heard of product liability?

I'm far from an expert on tablesaws, but I owned my previous one for 14 years and not once ever had an arbor nut come loose ….. I am pretty careful about safety type things. And its happened I think 5 times in the last week with the Grizzly. I'm getting a bit annoyed that they're not acknowledging a problem, especially one with potential safety consequences.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

Whom ever asked you to video that clearly has no idea the liability they are assuming by asking you to video a blade potentially coming off a table saw. I would forward this to someone else, any one else has got to be more intelligent than the yokel that asked that of you and will certainly have a better approach at getting this resolved for you.


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

> ... I'm getting a bit *annoyed* that they re not acknowledging a problem, especially one with potential safety consequences.
> 
> - unclearthur


*uncla'*, I'd be using a tad stronger language than *annoyed*. I've had similar issue in the past with other manufacturers and while the machinery is under warranty, I do not believe you should need to resort to a forum to solve your issue. Manufacturers have, and if they don't should have, a legal obligation to fix their wrongs. Here in Australia, probably the only thing our politicians have go right, is to clamp down on shoddy warranty obligations and fullfilment.

I would get back to the manufactures and/or supplier and emphasise the *safety issue *and potential litigation if the fault is not addressed. Failing that, it'd be a hard skinned manufacturer (even for a Grizzly) that would tolerate a well publicised roasting of the equipment and their customer service. Just don't hold back if you think their response is unsatisfactory and pull all plugs to lampoon any of their customer surveys WEB sites and product evaluations.

My concern would be that while there are many great suggestion posted, nearly all resort to the activation of a potentially hazardous machinery to play what if. Maybe if Grizzly are prepared to guarantee that no damage will be inflicted on the user, then continue testing… but I'd wait for their written guarantee which I would demand.

Hey you can't (or should not) use your saw so you've got time to hit the Internet and do a Grizzly bitch.


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## unclearthur (Jul 4, 2013)

Here's an update plus more exciting videos. At Grizzly's instruction I took off the belts (which was a pain to do even with the motor at its highest position) and spun the motor and arbor. I've no idea if what I am seeing is normal or not. Appreciate any input!

*Motor*
With the belts off the motor spins pretty freely by hand. Just a soft rubbing sound. If I give it a spin with my finger and let go it will freespin for a couple of revolutions. Then I turned it on/off (video is here). I can't really notice any hesitation on start up like previously though its harder to say without the blade to watch. Shut down time is now about 6 seconds to stop vs 3 seconds with the belts on. (For comparison, the old video with belts on is here)

*Arbor*
I can rotate the arbor with my fingers, but not freespin it; it stops immediately. No sound, no grinding feeling, but a lot more resistance than the motor. Video here and here.

Thanks to anyone who takes a look. Like I said, I have zippo to compare this to so I've no idea what indicates a problem or not. Just want to be cutting wood!


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

If your arbor stops immediately I'd say the problem is there.

You said you bought it new?


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

In my opinion, the arbor seems way to tight. I would expect it to move freely on the bearings. Almost seems something was over tightened when put together.


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## unclearthur (Jul 4, 2013)

> If your arbor stops immediately I d say the problem is there.
> 
> You said you bought it new?
> 
> - TheFridge


Yup, its basically a new saw.


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

I haven't read all of this thread so this may have been covered.

In Europe the safety laws dictate that a spinning saw blade will come to a stop in 2-3 seconds after being turned off. 
Be cause of this they have out lawed dado stacks because the nut can work lose when the blade stops so quickly.


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

> Here s an update plus more exciting videos. *At Grizzly s instruction I took off the belts *... *and spun the motor and arbor*. I ve *no idea *if what I am seeing is *normal or not*. Appreciate any input!
> 
> - unclearthur


What did Grizzly say you were supposed to see? Surely they must have given you more explicit instructions of what to looks for and what to do when specific observations were made. If they didn't I'd keep on their back.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

The motor appears to be behaving normally, the arbor does seem to tight and if it's a bearing issue that could be further exacerbated by the tension of the three belts generating quite a bit more friction. The added braking effect of the motor start winding being closed as it decelerates is compounding the problem even more. New bearings for the arbor sound like they'd either completely fix the problem or dramatically reduce the symptoms.


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## EricTwice (Dec 9, 2016)

I have been following this discourse to see if you come to any conclusions. As I said I have an old Powermatic that does this. I don't see how it can be the arbor. I replaced the arbor on mine because it was damaged by the blades free spinning. It did not solve the problem.

I had come to the conclusion it was the motor stopping too fast, but I have no idea why, or how to fix it.


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## Mccrusn (Mar 8, 2017)

Unless I missed it…. you bought the saw new… and you contacted the manufacturer. Is it still under warrantee? Tell the manufacturer to figure it out and get you a new saw. Whatever the "cause"... having your arbor nut loosen on it's own is un-acceptable. I saw your video… and that thing definitely seems to slow down way quicker than anything I've ever experienced… so if you can…tell them to take care of their safety problem and get you a new one!


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## ohtimberwolf (Dec 17, 2011)

I agree with David, it is not your problem to solve. The guys here have jumped in and tried to help but it still remains Grizzley's problem and you should be able to get back to work. JMO


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## Carloz (Oct 12, 2016)

The arbor looks ok. The motor spins down slowly then something clicks ( centrifugal switch?) and the motor decelerates very fast.
My first guess is that the start capacitor is shorted or leaking. That would also explain the slow start.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

The motor running without the belts sounds much better than with the belts….it's what I'd consider normal without the belts. That suggests the problem is with the arbor or the belt tension. It'sl best to get Grizzly involved.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

My saw (Jet Xacta) makes a very loud "clunk" when it shuts off - much louder than yours. Has done it from day 1. So does my jointer and planer (both Grizzly). IMO that is not going to cause a tightened nut to come loose its got to be something else. Neither will loose belts.

This is a very strange situation. My logic tells me that nut is either not tightening all the way, or something is causing it to untighten while its running so when it shuts down its really loose or something is not seating correctly (I was going to say the shims but that's not it).

I learned with dado sets to use two wrenches to tight the arbor nut and now I do it on all blades. My saw has a slot on the arbor for a wrench can't see one on yours.

I would consult a parts diagram just to be sure something is not missing or a part was changed by someone else before you got it.

I would call Grizzly tech back run it by another person. This should be something simple.


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## measure2wice (Mar 3, 2015)

This may be a really stupid question but is your arbor a left hand thread?


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## unclearthur (Jul 4, 2013)

> This may be a really stupid question but is your arbor a left hand thread?
> 
> - Harry


Its a left tilt saw with a normal (right hand) thread on the arbor. But I think for both left and right tilt saws the end effect is the same: starting the saw tends to tighten the nut; stopping the blade tourques the nut in the loosening direction.


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## unclearthur (Jul 4, 2013)

> The motor running without the belts sounds much better than with the belts….it s what I d consider normal without the belts. That suggests the problem is with the arbor or the belt tension. It sl best to get Grizzly involved.
> 
> - knotscott


For sure, I am following up with Grizzly and have sent them the videos. Still waiting to hear back. I was just wondering what people thought from the videos, how it compares to their saws, etc.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

My arbor spins pretty easily without belts. Motor as well. With belts the arbor doesn't spin free because of the set in the belt.


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

> ... I was just wondering what people thought from the videos, how it compares to their saws, etc.
> 
> - unclearthur


Sorry* unc'a'*, This is really a mute question, except towards fellow Grizzly owners with exactly the same model TS. Each different brand and model performs different, otherwise there would be no need for patents. To me it's obvious that nearly ever saw owner has a different take on the solutions in accordance to their particular saws characteristics as their saws are different, even if it's a subtle difference.

I also apologise to the forum, as I'm by no means trying to lampoon any of your well intended suggestions and heartfelt contributions, however, I am so pissed off with the support I have recently been receiving from vendors and manufacturers that, I think its time we (and maybe the rest of the world) dug out heels in and held them fully accountable. I accept that we are in an age of disposable produce, however, warranties, short as they may be, should demand compliance and accountability.

I would emphatically demand a solution from Grizzle and not settle for any half-arsed suggestions and refuse to accept any tardy feedback. The longer they procrastinate, the shorter your remaining warranty becomes.


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## Carloz (Oct 12, 2016)

> This may be a really stupid question but is your arbor a left hand thread?
> 
> - Harry


In fact it is.


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## runswithscissors (Nov 8, 2012)

Shouldn't make any difference. Right tilt arbors have a left handed thread, left tilt have right handed thread. That's so when the blade encounters the wood, the rotational resistance on the blade tends to tighten the arbor nut. It's the too-fast slow-down that's causing the nut loosening problem.

Normally, it should not be necessary to over tighten the nut. In fact, on some arbor designs (such as the Unisaw) that will distort the blade. That's why the arbor washer is slightly cupped.


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## SirTim (Mar 26, 2017)

I have the same saw. Just ran into this thread and I got curious. Mine is up to speed in about the count to 1. To stop to the count of about 7. It clunks when turned off with a dado set but not with a single blade. What mine doesn't do that yours does is that the torque of the motor actually moves yours (motor) where mine does not move. With the arbor i think it is similar in that it is kind of hard to turn. I have only tried to turn it manually with the blade still on.


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## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

I'm not a fan of your arbor flange and nut, the way the nut sets into the flange.
Not saying that's the problem, and I've never used that type, but from looking at it I don't like it. 
It doesn't seem like enough pressure is transferred from the nut to the flange with just the ridge of the nut making contact. Could be totally wrong, just adding more food for thought.

(My arbor flange has a 5/8 hole, so the whole nut is putting pressure against the flange)


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

There is a reason Grizzly is cheap, send it back and buy a Delta, SS, or PM.


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## mrg (Mar 10, 2010)

Easy way to see if it's the nut. Go to the store get a new nut , it will most likely be a larger diameter than your physical nut. Put that new nut on by itself and see if it comes loose when you shut the saw down if not, it's the Nuuk with flange that's your issue.


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## Carloz (Oct 12, 2016)

> I m not a fan of your arbor flange and nut, the way the nut sets into the flange.
> Not saying that s the problem, and I ve never used that type, but from looking at it I don t like it.
> It doesn t seem like enough pressure is transferred from the nut to the flange with just the ridge of the nut making contact. Could be totally wrong, just adding more food for thought.
> 
> ...


All saws I used have the same flange. There is no point making the whole surface contact the blade as the efficiency of the contact closer to the center is way smaller than on the outer part. In fact a flat flange is a cheap design. Makes it easier to manufacture but is less efficient as the blade is never absolutely flat, plus theres is always a possibility of sawdust getting between the blade and the flange. So the outer part is not guaranteed to make the full contact with the blade which makes it let reliable.


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## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

> I m not a fan of your arbor flange and nut, *the way the nut sets into the flange*.
> Not saying that s the problem, and I ve never used that type, but from looking at it I don t like it.
> It doesn t seem like enough pressure is transferred from the nut to the flange with just the ridge of the nut making contact. Could be totally wrong, just adding more food for thought.
> 
> ...


I'm not talking about having a flat flange!


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

My JET cabinet saw stops in about 5 seconds.


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## ohtimberwolf (Dec 17, 2011)

Unclear, I'm sure many of us are waiting to see the final results of all of this.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

Yep


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## unclearthur (Jul 4, 2013)

> Unclear, I m sure many of us are waiting to see the final results of all of this.
> 
> - ohtimberwolf


So am I! Spoke to Grizzly again; someone different this time. Waiting to hear back. Saw resting.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

Until proven otherwise, my logical brain tells me something is preventing the nut from tightening completely. If it is loosening from blade deceleration it was never tight to begin with.

I haven't read all the thread, an apologize, not meaning to insult your intelligence, but exactly how are you tightening the nut? If you are holding the blade, then watch the inboard side of the arbor as you tighten the nut. Is it turning with the nut? If so, I would be checking for the blade seating tightly against the arbor flange.

Have you tried locking down the inboard side of the arbor with another wrench and really tighten the nut? On my saw there is a provision for this via a slot in the arbor shaft to accept a wrench. I use it every time I tighten a blade.

The Grizzly may not be the greatest but it is not that poorly made that this would be ground for dumping it.

I know stuff like this happens can can drive you nuts, but this is such a simple situation there has to be a simple answer. Hope you find it soon!!


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## measure2wice (Mar 3, 2015)

> This may be a really stupid question but is your arbor a left hand thread?
> 
> - Harry
> 
> ...


What the question or it is a left hand? I ask this because years ago, I bought a throw away circular saw from HF where the blade would not stay tightened. Turned out the thread was made wrong.


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## unclearthur (Jul 4, 2013)

> I haven t read all the thread, an apologize, not meaning to insult your intelligence, but exactly how are you tightening the nut?
> - rwe2156


With the 2 supplied wrenches, one on the arbor nut, one on the arbor on the other side of the blade. Its just the traditional setup on this saw, same as my old contractor saw (with threads reversed). Believe me, the first thing I thought was "Did I forget to tighten the nut?". But subsequent times I was very careful and tightened it probably more than I should have to.


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## unclearthur (Jul 4, 2013)

Here's an update to the saga …...

So 2 weeks ago today, at Grizzly's direction I took the belts off my new G0690 table saw and videotaped the motor and arbor spinning (links above). I then spoke with someone new at Grizzly who initiated a new service order. I sent then (again) all the pictures and videos from the beginning. The next day I received an email from Grizzly saying that the "the arbor bearings seem extremely stiff and need to be replaced". Shortly after, someone from Grizzly called me and told me they had decided "the saw needs to be returned for repair or replacement". The file was then sent to some other department for that to happen.

We then had some back and forth about how that (return and redelivery) would happen. They seemed to think its my problem, and I sort of think its them that sold me a faulty saw, so they should solve the transport problem. I have no simple way of getting this thing onto a truck, etc etc.

Today the original tech support called and suggested that they send me a fully assembled gear bearing housing, so that I guess the arbor bearings would be replaced without me having to press the bearings in, etc. I'm willing to give that a try and see if it fixes the problem.

Then they called back and said that instead of sending me this part, that I should try wumping the arbor with a hammer to see if it loosens the spindle.

So Grizzly has gone from "replace the saw" to "hit it with a hammer". Different opinions from different Grizzly engineers, I guess. In the meantime the saw has been sitting still for 2 weeks.

My instinct is not to mess with half ass solutions, as 
1) its a safety issue (arbor nuts coming loose) 
2) after the warranty period any fixes will be all on my own coin.

What do you guys think?


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

I think you've gone from corresponding with someone who understands the liability they're assuming by allowing a very unsafe product in the hands of a customer who purchased new and still has their saw under warranty to someone who should have been terminated a while ago.

I also think I'm glad every grizzly machine I've purchased has been used with any problems known by all parties involved prior to any exchange.


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

> ..... "the saw needs to be returned for repair or replacement"….
> 
> .....What do you guys think?
> 
> - unclearthur


I really wonder how your mind works? Sorry, but they have admitted "liability"... fessed up to it being faulty… I cannot attempt to understand why you are even vaguely contemplating their suggestion of hitting it with a hammer when they talk about replacement. I am guessing that it being a new saw, the supplier may be close to your residence. It would be prudent to liaise through them in getting a replacement or the fix.

I cannot understand why you are wasting this forums time asking for opinions when you don't seem to be prepared to do the obvious to help yourself.

I am stopping wasting my time and will "unwatch" this thread. I wish you luck in the future.


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

Wasting time?


> ?


??


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

No time wasted if people who read this thread are now aware of the company's attitude, intellectual capacity and thoughtlesness.


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## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

It would be interesting to know if Grizzly pays any attention to these sites, I would think it should.

On the computer site Newegg and the like, the company's will come on there and try to help those that have bought their products, and had problems. [I know it's different BUT!!!]
This would be free advertising and would put a happy fuzzy feeling to any one thinking of buying their products. 
I wonder how much advertising is figured into selling a table saw.
How many lost sale from free bad press???
Just my $.02


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## wichman3 (Sep 12, 2016)

Have you tried turn the arbor nut over and putting it on from the other side?
I'm not being flippant (sorry), sometimes it does matter.


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## unclearthur (Jul 4, 2013)

> It would be interesting to know if Grizzly pays any attention to these sites, I would think it should.
> - htl


If you google G0690 or some other model number, threads from LJ and a few other forums come up pretty prominently. Grizzly should definitely monitor and even participate in key forums. There are even service businesses which monitor forums, etc and send alerts to companies when their brands are being discussed. Its all part of the basic marketing picture now.

I have no interest in unfairly slagging any company; I'm glad companies like Grizzly exist. I've visited their showroom 3 times just because I like looking at all the gear. And I also don't like to be a whiny customer expecting absolute perfection on a saw which costs half of a Powermatic or Sawstop, but at the same time when you buy a new tablesaw …... the blades should stay on it when you cut something, LOL.

Personally, I find it enormously helpful in this case to get from LJ who have a lot more experience than me; makes it much easier to make my case with Grizzly customer-service rather than just accepting what they say.


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

I would never hit the arbor with a hammer….

If it is a problem with the bearings, then they need to be replaced.

Why, if they offered to replace the saw, you did not accept that solution.

Personally, I am not going to spend several hours replacing the arbor and realigning the saw due to a mfg defect.

So….what are you waiting for…


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## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

One thing to really watch with a stacked dado it that the chippers clear each other and the cutting tips are not pressed against one another. It is something you have to watch with just a couple of them. Many of them can get this pinched condition. If the tips are pressing and not the centers of the blades, when you cut and knock loose the tip, it takes the tension off the stack and the nut can come loose.

Cheers, Jim


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## ohtimberwolf (Dec 17, 2011)

Unclear, I belive you have gone the limit. Time to act and get back to work. Thanks for all of the follow ups.


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## Carloz (Oct 12, 2016)

It is very funny to see how people present themselves in good light and others in bad. "I am not a whining customer even though I run crying to the forum over every word I hear from them. I am not bashing the company I just instead of kindly refusing or accepting to try out their suggestion I agan run here and keep complaining." 
Why would not you just express your concerns with them first? Say that you insist on a new saw or a new arbor assembly or simply take a hammer and tap few times on the housing and report them if it worked or not.


> I have no interest in unfairly slagging any company; I m glad companies like Grizzly exist. I ve visited their showroom 3 times just because I like looking at all the gear. And I also don t like to be a whiny customer expecting absolute perfection on a saw which costs half of a Powermatic or Sawstop, but at the same time when you buy a new tablesaw …... the blades should stay on it when you cut something, LOL.
> 
> Personally, I find it enormously helpful in this case to get from LJ who have a lot more experience than me; makes it much easier to make my case with Grizzly customer-service rather than just accepting what they say.
> 
> - unclearthur


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## hairy (Sep 23, 2008)

You bought a new saw. It should work as advertised. You paid full price, you should get full use of your purchase.

If they treated me that way, it would take more than a new saw to shut me up.

I got jerked around by Jet/Powermatic customer service, they will never get another penny out of me.


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## ScottM (Jul 10, 2012)

Just send it back!!! Insist to them that it is their problem and they need to figure out how to make that happen. Be sure to bring up the subject of safety to them…


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

> Wasting time?
> 
> 
> > ?
> ...


...Popcorn in hand LOL

Waiting for someone to explain how a nut double wrench tightened on a blade can come loose?

Huh???


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## unclearthur (Jul 4, 2013)

> I would never hit the arbor with a hammer….
> 
> If it is a problem with the bearings, then they need to be replaced.
> 
> ...


To clarify, they said it needed to be replaced then back-tracked and are now a different person there is insisting that I try to fix it by hitting it with a hammer. I didn't refuse anything.


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

> Wasting time?
> 
> 
> > ?
> ...


Well I though LittleBlackDuck's comment was a bit rude and necessary. Nobody makes you waste your time. Nobody forces anyone to come to LJ and participate in any given thread. LittleBlackDuck decided all on his own to read the and respond to this thread. Now that it turns out not to his liking he decides to blame someone for wasting his time. I don't get it.


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

There are to many replies to your OP to read. I posted one reply and read a few replies and I come to the conclusion; you need to call Grizzly and have them pick up the saw at their expense and either fix, replace with a new saw or refund your money. The fault is clearly on Grizzly and it is up to them to make good or their reputation will be at risk. You should not be expected to take the machine apart, take pictures, remove belts or bang on the arbor with a hammer. 
After reading about this problem, I can say, due to the poor customer service I'm seeing, I will never consider buying anything from Grizzly. I hope Grizzly reads this.


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## clin (Sep 3, 2015)

I don't agree with the idea that Grizzly must pick up the saw at their expense so on and so forth. A supplier has no control over where their customer is etc. As I understand it Grizzly sells directly and therefore their products are less expensive.

This is the risk when you buy something "mail order". If there is a problem, you'll have to send it back. This is one of the reasons I bought my table saw locally, from a dealer. In fact, some hardware was missing from the box, and the local guy got it for me immediately.

While we would all want everything we buy to be perfect, that's unreasonable. Things happen. If you want perfection in quality control, add a zero or two to the end of the cost of something.

And something like a table saw is getting into territory where sending back the entire unit is difficult for both the customer and supplier. Therefore, attempting repairs, on site, is a reasonable step.

I know I'd rather replace some assembly, than go to the trouble of boxing things up etc. In fact, I'd rather enjoy doing it myself.


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## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

A couple a months back I bought some vac and hose parts from Grizzly and in the past ordered some Toys and Joys model plans on sale and all went fine,so today I get two emails asking how my orders went.
I can't remember them emailing me before now.

*After the comment I made this morning would you say they are paying attention, hope so???
*
I love it when I read where a company is on the job and makes things right.

There's always going to be a few bad tools being sent out, from what I've read the company's really have to keep on the China importers to keep the quality up, but that being said the buyer shouldn't have to jump hoops to get his *new saw working safely.*
Just adding $.02 more cents. LOL


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

I like butterfingers. They are tasty.


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

> I don t agree with the idea that Grizzly must pick up the saw at their expense so on and so forth. A supplier has no control over where their customer is etc. As I understand it Grizzly sells directly and therefore their products are less expensive.
> 
> This is the risk when you buy something "mail order". If there is a problem, you ll have to send it back. This is one of the reasons I bought my table saw locally, from a dealer. In fact, some hardware was missing from the box, and the local guy got it for me immediately.
> 
> ...


Who's side are you on; the customer or the supplier? The customer bought the saw in good faith and is entitled to a good product. I don't care if it cost $1500 or $50. It's people like you who let businesses get away with poor service. You are obviously an American as I am too, but Europeans would never put up with such a situation. They work hard for their money and expect value for their money. We are too concerned with what is good for the supplier. He is making a lot of money. What happened to the adage, "the customer is always right". I'm sorry for my outburst, but I worked hard for my money and I demand 100% value for my money. Some people have a lot of money to spend, so if they don't get value, they just say "oh well, it's only just a few dollars". I grew up in the 1940's-50's and we worked hard for our money. There was no "letting anyone off the hook". I didn't then and I won't do it today. If you bought a car, either new or used and found after you drove away that the radio didn't work; would you just live with it? I don't think so and I don't think you would volunteer to pull the radio out to see what's wrong.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

Snickers too


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

Butter fingers and Snicker are bad on you teeth. Just saying.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

I like oral b battery toothbrushes as well


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## 280305 (Sep 28, 2008)

> I like butterfingers. They are tasty.
> 
> - TheFridge


I agree that they taste good, but I don't like the way they stick to my teeth.


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

Out of curiosity I looked up Grizzly's warranty. surprisingly it doesn't say much.

http://grizzly.biz/Service/Warranty


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## unclearthur (Jul 4, 2013)

> I know I d rather replace some assembly, than go to the trouble of boxing things up etc. In fact, I d rather enjoy doing it myself.
> - clin


I'm OK with that, as long as its something I can reasonably do and likely have a more or less good as new result. I just don't want to get into trying to press on new bearings and stuff like that, where, for me at least (never done it before, not the right tools), there's a good chance of messing up and degrading the performance. Not willing to do that on a brand new machine.



> I don t agree with the idea that Grizzly must pick up the saw at their expense so on and so forth. A supplier has no control over where their customer is etc. As I understand it Grizzly sells directly and therefore their products are less expensive.
> 
> This is the risk when you buy something "mail order". If there is a problem, you ll have to send it back. This is one of the reasons I bought my table saw locally, from a dealer. In fact, some hardware was missing from the box, and the local guy got it for me immediately.
> 
> ...


I get what you are saying, but I think there's a difference between "not being perfect" and "not being usable". There's also a difference between a normal warranty claim (something breaks) and a machine being delivered wonky from day 1. If a machine really does need to be replaced then I don't see how its anyone but the vendor's responsibility to make it happen. You fulfilled your side of the bargain - you paid for it. They were supposed to provide you a working machine.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

> I like butterfingers. They are tasty.
> 
> - TheFridge
> 
> ...


Yeah it's a pain but totally worth it


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## builtinbkyn (Oct 29, 2015)

> I don t agree with the idea that Grizzly must pick up the saw at their expense so on and so forth. A supplier has no control over where their customer is etc. As I understand it Grizzly sells directly and therefore their products are less expensive.
> 
> This is the risk when you buy something "mail order". If there is a problem, you ll have to send it back. This is one of the reasons I bought my table saw locally, from a dealer. In fact, some hardware was missing from the box, and the local guy got it for me immediately.
> 
> ...


I think you're way off base in your assessment. In my opinion, taking someone's money, shipping them a lemon - a dangerous lemon at that - and then not making it right, is akin to stealing. We're not talking about a disposable pen and the cost relative to other saws is irrelevant. It's still is considered a "big ticket item".

I think the OP should check his states consumer protection laws. He certainly has recourse. He should also contact his credit card company and get them involved.

Grizzly's warranty isn't worth the paper it was written on. It really says nothing. I purchased a used Grizzly band saw, but would never buy one of their products new, based on this thread and looking at the warranty they offer for their products.


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## clin (Sep 3, 2015)

> Who s side are you on; the customer or the supplier? The customer bought the saw in good faith and is entitled to a good product. I don t care if it cost $1500 or $50. It s people like you who let businesses get away with poor service. You are obviously an American as I am too, but Europeans would never put up with such a situation. They work hard for their money and expect value for their money. We are too concerned with what is good for the supplier. He is making a lot of money. What happened to the adage, "the customer is always right". I m sorry for my outburst, but I worked hard for my money and I demand 100% value for my money. Some people have a lot of money to spend, so if they don t get value, they just say "oh well, it s only just a few dollars". I grew up in the 1940 s-50 s and we worked hard for our money. There was no "letting anyone off the hook". I didn t then and I won t do it today. If you bought a car, either new or used and found after you drove away that the radio didn t work; would you just live with it? I don t think so and I don t think you would volunteer to pull the radio out to see what s wrong.
> 
> - MrRon


Side? Why do there need to be sides. It's not us against them. In the real world, sometimes there will be problems. I will guarantee that you have made your share of mistakes or simply had something you were responsible for go bad, for reasons totally out of your control. Things happen.

And sure when it does, you have a responsibility to make things right. But within reason. Realistically, how the hell would Grizzly be able to pick up that table saw? Sure they could arrange for shipping, but the OP would still have to pack it all up. That is a very non-trivial task. Though it may still come down to that.

Not expecting a company to show up at my doorstep and replace a product is not "letting a businesses get away with poor service" or "letting anyone off the hook."

Heck, why not go full Monty on it and not only demand a new saw be hand delivered, but they should also refund all your money for all the trouble.



> If you bought a car, either new or used and found after you drove away that the radio didn t work; would you just live with it? I don t think so and I don t think you would volunteer to pull the radio out to see what s wrong.


No, I'd drive it back to the dealership and let them deal with it. But I guess you'd expect them to show up at your house and repair it, or I guess replace the whole car.

But, there's no local dealership in this scenario, so the choice is to ship it back (expensive and time consuming for all), or you could work through the problem.

There's a reason Grizzly products are less expensive, and not having local dealers (middle men) is a big part of that. When you buy direct, you are accepting the lower level of customer support that that will entail.

This is exactly why I bought my saw locally. Knowing that if I had a major problem, shipping 400 lbs of saw back and forth wouldn't be something I'd have to deal with.

The OP basically has two choices, pack it up and send it back. Maybe Grizzly would pay for shipping, maybe not. Or the OP can replace the suspected assembly.


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## builtinbkyn (Oct 29, 2015)

Clin not having dealers to inflate the cost benefits Grizzly as well. Faulty argument here. They made the lemon and now they need to make good. The OP expected a safe to operate table saw. This is a danger to anyone standing near it. If I were Grizzly, I'd be getting that saw out of the OPs hands post haste. Bad business on many levels. It being discussed here with 8k+ views is testament to that.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

I keep seeing this thread pop up and I'm sure the problem is solved by now but if not I suggest taking it back and getting a bandsaw or buy a Delta.


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## unclearthur (Jul 4, 2013)

> I keep seeing this thread pop up and I m sure the problem is solved by now but if not I suggest taking it back and getting a bandsaw or buy a Delta.
> 
> - Rick M


After I refused to try fixing the TS by popping the arbor with a hammer, Grizzly said they'd ship me out an assembled gear bearing housing. Hopefully that fixes everything. If they had sent it out when I first contacted them 6 weeks ago about the blade starting slowly, then I'd be cutting wood instead of typing and they wouldn't have had 8,000 + views of this thread.


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

> I keep seeing this thread pop up and I m sure the problem is solved by now but if not I suggest taking it back and getting a bandsaw or buy a Delta.
> 
> - Rick M
> 
> ...


Look at it the way. The owner's of this forum and advertisers are happy to have the 8000 views.


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## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

Just a thought, if your arbor sticks out to the left as you face your saw, does it have a left handed thread on it? If it is right handed, that will be the problem. with it left handed, ass you cut the pressure on the saw will tent to tighten it with the left handed thread. It will loosen with a right handed thread

I bought a new lathe that just came on the market and they made the tailstock thread the wrong way and it retreated when you turned it clockwise instead of advancing. They sent me a new screw and quill after they corrected it in production.

I also wonder if your blade brake could be the problem if it cuts fine and is loose after the cut??

cheers, Jim


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## ocean (Feb 13, 2016)

It looks to me that it is slowing down really fast. This would suggest that the belt is to tight or your arbor bearings are bad or both? IMHO


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

> I keep seeing this thread pop up and I m sure the problem is solved by now but if not I suggest taking it back and getting a bandsaw or buy a Delta.
> 
> - Rick M
> 
> ...


I just can't help myself either.


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## clin (Sep 3, 2015)

> Clin not having dealers to inflate the cost benefits Grizzly as well. Faulty argument here. They made the lemon and now they need to make good. The OP expected a safe to operate table saw. This is a danger to anyone standing near it. If I were Grizzly, I d be getting that saw out of the OPs hands post haste. Bad business on many levels. It being discussed here with 8k+ views is testament to that.
> 
> - builtinbkyn


It's not a faulty argument, it is reality. What exactly do you expect Grizzly to do at this point beyond what was offered? Which as I understand was ship it back, we'll ship you an assembly (what is now actually happening), or of course the DOA idea of whack it with a hammer.



> After I refused to try fixing the TS by popping the arbor with a hammer, Grizzly said they d ship me out an assembled gear bearing housing. Hopefully that fixes everything. If they had sent it out when I first contacted them 6 weeks ago about the blade starting slowly, then I d be cutting wood instead of typing and they wouldn t have had 8,000 + views of this thread.
> 
> - unclearthur


I agree this seems to have taken too long to get to this point. But this was not a super obvious problem. After all you felt the need to ask on this forum if there even was a problem with the saw. And some are still chiming in with possible explanations not related to a defective saw (though I'm with most who agree the saw is the issue).

My point, sometimes problems are in a grey area where it is not so easy to know whether the problem is the saw or the customer making a mistake. And if the saw, is it an adjustment issue or in fact a defect. And even then, what is the best way to move forward to solve the problem.

In your case, it would have been a much simpler issue had the saw simply not started. Sometimes it just takes time to work through the issue. And sure in hindsight, we can always look back and say, if we would have just done this, it would have been faster.

Anyway, OP I think you've done well pushing through this problem and it sounds like you have been very patient with Grizzly and done a lot from your end (send videos etc). Here's hoping the new assembly solves your issue.


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## builtinbkyn (Oct 29, 2015)

> Clin not having dealers to inflate the cost benefits Grizzly as well. Faulty argument here. They made the lemon and now they need to make good. The OP expected a safe to operate table saw. This is a danger to anyone standing near it. If I were Grizzly, I d be getting that saw out of the OPs hands post haste. Bad business on many levels. It being discussed here with 8k+ views is testament to that.
> 
> - builtinbkyn
> 
> ...


We're not talking about shipping back a pair of defective shoes. This is a 500lb problem they created by shipping a faulty machine or a machine that was damaged in transport. Either way, they're responsible. If it were my company and I stood by my products, I'd tell the customer a freight carrier will be there to pick it up, just the way it arrived. Heck I'd send the replacement to be delivered when the pickup occurred to utilize the packaging and to save on the transport.

The other issue is this is a safety/mechanical issue not a cosmetic issue. Buying a table saw does not mean the user has the ability to wrench their machine. It means they understand how to cut wood on it. Beyond the warranty period, mechanical issues are the customer's problem to resolve. Similar buying a car, the purchaser knows how to drive it, but not necessarily fix it.

Grizzly selling direct has no bearing. They benefit as well by being able to price their product more competitively and undercut the competition. If they don't want to deal with issues such as this, they they should have a distributor network like other manufacturers. This is just the reason some firms don't deal direct. These are business decisions and in my opinion, Grizzly has made a poor one allowing this to fester in the public realm for six weeks. Penny wise pound foolish is no way to run a business. They showed poor faith and bad judgement especially when life and limb are involved. I'll be staying well clear of Grizzly and their ill conceived warranty which basically doesn't warranty much, from reading it.


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

I very much hope that the new assembly solves the problem. I would not be happy to spend several hours taking the saw completely apart, putting in the new part and spending time re-aligning it. For some, this may be at the limits of their experience.

Could I do it..yes. Would I do it… NO. I think that Grizzly should send a tech out to replace the part.


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

> I very much hope that the new assembly solves the problem. I would not be happy to spend several hours taking the saw completely apart, putting in the new part and spending time re-aligning it. For some, this may be at the limits of their experience.
> 
> Could I do it..yes. Would I do it… NO. I think that Grizzly should send a tech out to replace the part.
> 
> - Redoak49


Taking you saw apart, putting it back together and aligning can be a good way to learn your saw. What you lean in the process could be a help down the road if and when other problems might arise. You might learn something that could be use on other equipment repairs that we all run into sooner or later.


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## builtinbkyn (Oct 29, 2015)

> I very much hope that the new assembly solves the problem. I would not be happy to spend several hours taking the saw completely apart, putting in the new part and spending time re-aligning it. For some, this may be at the limits of their experience.
> 
> Could I do it..yes. Would I do it… NO. I think that Grizzly should send a tech out to replace the part.
> 
> ...


Maybe the OP owes Grizzly a little more for this beneficial experience. LOL

The OP could just as well have purchased a used saw, but maybe, just maybe, he didn't want to have to be wrenching around instead of cutting wood. And maybe just maybe, he wanted a new saw to work without needing mechanical repairs before his beard grew to length.


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

> I very much hope that the new assembly solves the problem. I would not be happy to spend several hours taking the saw completely apart, putting in the new part and spending time re-aligning it. For some, this may be at the limits of their experience.
> 
> Could I do it..yes. Would I do it… NO. I think that Grizzly should send a tech out to replace the part.
> 
> ...


Maybe, maybe maybe…................maybe the finial decision is up to the OP.


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## builtinbkyn (Oct 29, 2015)

> I very much hope that the new assembly solves the problem. I would not be happy to spend several hours taking the saw completely apart, putting in the new part and spending time re-aligning it. For some, this may be at the limits of their experience.
> 
> Could I do it..yes. Would I do it… NO. I think that Grizzly should send a tech out to replace the part.
> 
> ...


The OP already stated he was uncomfortable with performing certain tasks to fix this, and it seems Grizzly has some part in the decision making too.

To be honest, I don't even think this should have to be a discussion. Seems odd that people are willing to accept crap from manufacturers - well unless of course, they are the ones having to deal with the crap. You think Grizzly would accept receiving a copy machine they need to start fixing right out of the box? And no ones safety is at issue there either.


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

> I very much hope that the new assembly solves the problem. I would not be happy to spend several hours taking the saw completely apart, putting in the new part and spending time re-aligning it. For some, this may be at the limits of their experience.
> 
> Could I do it..yes. Would I do it… NO. I think that Grizzly should send a tech out to replace the part.
> 
> ...


The OP has receive tons of advice in this thread. It now up to him to decide (not somebody else) what he wants to do. If I never did anything I was uncomfortable with I'd be crawling on my had and knees.


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## unclearthur (Jul 4, 2013)

> I very much hope that the new assembly solves the problem. I would not be happy to spend several hours taking the saw completely apart, putting in the new part and spending time re-aligning it. For some, this may be at the limits of their experience.
> 
> Could I do it..yes. Would I do it… NO. I think that Grizzly should send a tech out to replace the part.
> 
> - Redoak49


Well its beyond the limits of my experience as well, but I'll give it a try, LOL. Grizzly has made absolutely clear that they never send someone out to fix something (though I am within a 2 hour drive of their showroom).



> The OP could just as well have purchased a used saw, but maybe, just maybe, he didn t want to have to be wrenching around instead of cutting wood.
> 
> - builtinbkyn


You got that right!



> Maybe, maybe maybe…................maybe the finial decision is up to the OP.
> - AlaskaGuy


Actually, the decisions have been pretty much up to Grizzly not me; the only decisions I've made is to refuse to make a videotape of the nut coming loose with the dado blade on (duh!) and to refuse to wack the arbor with a hammer.

I suggested to Grizzly that they just have someone jump in a truck and come up here and fix (or replace) the thing - they'd be back home in time for a late lunch. But trying to get these guys to do something out of their standard operating procedures is almost impossible.

As is, my choice is to either install the part they're sending me or return it at my own expense and hope they give me a refund of the original purchase (no guarantee of that, either).

To be fair, they are sending me an assembly and not just the bearings, so that does help.


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## ohtimberwolf (Dec 17, 2011)

It may help but I would not take a chance on Grizzly after reading these posts if I was to order a new saw. jmho. 
I will buy local from what is available. Of course I am blessed by having Keim Lumber not far from me.

Good luck to you unclear, I hope it goes well for you from this point on.


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## builtinbkyn (Oct 29, 2015)

unclear I just had a similar problem with a Jet lathe. I purchased it from Amazon thankfully as Jet really didn't want to deal with the issue. They had me tinker around and doing stuff I did prior to calling them. Sent them a video too. They didn't appear to want to be of any help. I called Amazon and they had a new one next day delivered to me. I didn't have the original box for the first lathe. They told me to just box up the return in the box I was to receive the new one in. UPS is at my building every day, so getting it shipped was fortunately, very easy. I would dread having to deal with a cabinet saw. I bought a Delta last year against the advice of many here. But that too, was purchased thru Amazon, knowing their policy on returns. If the saw was faulty, it was going back, no questions asked. Thankfully it's a champ with no issues.

I have to say, this thread gave me a whole new respect for Sawstop, after seeing what they did for Jim. And it's validate my choice in saws as Grizzly was on the list. But after reading a few reviews, they were soon dispensed from the list.

Unclear, good luck and hope everything works out well. It seems unjust that you have to deal with this situation in this manner after spending your hard earned money and wanting only to enjoy using your new saw without issues. Keep us posted.


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## ScottM (Jul 10, 2012)

Just wondering if there were any updates to this situation?


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

Or if anyone likes butterfinger as well?


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

Your problem has convinced me to never buy anything from Grizzly. These people just want to make money and to hell with the customer.


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## unclearthur (Jul 4, 2013)

> Just wondering if there were any updates to this situation?
> 
> - ScottM


Well, as luck would have it, UPS just delivered Grizzly's replacement parts literally 10 minutes ago. And the box, straight off the truck, looked like this:










The love from Grizzly never ends!


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

I'm sorry. But that is funny. It's not. But really it is.

Honestly, it's what you pay for. A roll of the dice.


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## ohtimberwolf (Dec 17, 2011)

That of course happened in shippping. I can't fault grizzly for that. It just seems that murphy doesn't know when to quit. Keep us updated with your progress and good luck. larry


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

It looks like a heavy part put in a single layer cardboard box. In my opinion, it is also Grizzlys fault.


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## unclearthur (Jul 4, 2013)

> That of course happened in shippping.


The UPS guy said it was badly packaged and I tend to agree. A 16 lb part stuck in a thin cardboard box with just loose bubble wrap, no stryofoam etc - easy to see how it would move around and tear the box open.


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## ohtimberwolf (Dec 17, 2011)

I also agree if that was a thin box. I couldn't tell just looking but Grizzly should know better. Someone is dropping the ball. larry


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

> I also agree if that was a thin box. I couldn t tell just looking but Grizzly should know better. Someone is dropping the ball. larry
> 
> - ohtimberwolf


Sounds like the whole company not only dropped the ball but, totally lost sight of it, too.


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## unclearthur (Jul 4, 2013)

....... and of course the replacement part didn't fit properly, with the (stationary) riving knife components actually making contact with the (spinning) arbor.









The gap between the arbor and the gear housing is different between the original and replacement housings they sent out. Given that this gap basically positions the blade vis-a-vis the saw, you'd think they'd have quite a tight spec on that ….....

So I've given up on this puppy - too much time wasted already. Grizzly has magnanimously agreed to refund me, as long as I deliver the brand new saw back to their location in Bellingham. Which I will now do at my own cost and time.

2 months of screwing around, out of pocket costs (travel), countless hours wasted on 50+ emails, pictures, videos, repair attempts, a sled I made which I can now junk, etc. And not one call from a manager at Grizzly asking how they can make it better. Or them just sending someone up on a truck to fix or replace the brand new saw (I am 2 hours away). Better that a customer be screwed over for 2 months than one employee spends 4-6 hours to fix the problem properly.

I'm looking forward to writing my first tool review, which will be highly SEO optimized. Lots of pictures of pieces of saw all over the place. Maybe some blood soaked illustrations of "what can happen when the blade comes flying off you Grizzly G0690 tablesaw".

Thanks to all for all the advice above. Hope its been entertaining.


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

Sorry, you had to go thru this…..


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## builtinbkyn (Oct 29, 2015)

Sorry you had so many issues when all you wanted was a working saw for the money you paid. I agree with the above. Grizzly packaging leaves a lot to be desired. It almost looks like they don't care about their product or the customer. Heck, maybe they don't. The quality control looks to be non-existant. Grizzly should be ashamed and realize people talk about these things. Poor business judgement IMO.


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## ScottM (Jul 10, 2012)

Before you deliver it, take it apart as far as you can. In other words, deliver their saw to them in as many pieces as possible. Maybe even keep a few important looking pieces!


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## ohtimberwolf (Dec 17, 2011)

Unclearthur…SO DISAPPOINTED IN THE END RESULT OF ALL THIS. I don't think I have ever read or expected to read of such a let down to a story. I have lost all faith I had in Grizzly after what they have put you through.

I have to imagine what I would feel like if it had happened to me, and it could. You have been more than patient and I salute you. Truly they should hang their head in shame. larry


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

I just sent this email to customer service at Grizzly. I do not know if it will do any good but if enough of us do this it may make an impression. I tried to find the email for their president of Grizzly Shiraz Balolia but could not find it.

[email protected]

*Grizzly -
I have been following the troubles that a person has had with your table saw on Lumberjocks forum. His table saw slows down too fast causing problems. It is clear that there is a problem with the arbor assembly. He has sent you many emails, videos, made many calls and spent hours and days trying to fix it. He has tried many different things to fix it and recently got a new assembly shipped to him. Again you failed him as the heavy part was shipped in a thin cardboard box and then the part was not right and would not work.

Now he has to ship it back to you for a refund and pay all the crating and shipping charges.

This entire episode and your response is such a terrible example of problems and Grizzly not standing behind his problems. There are many people reading this on the LumberJocks website and will remember this incident when they choose to purchase equipment.

It certainly has made me certain never to order from you. *


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

As far as I'm concerned Grizzly should replace that saw with a new one (or refund you money). They should do everything that need done to make this happen while you sit in your easy having a beer.

I think we all need to send Grizzly a short email letting them that many people are watching this thread to see if they come to the plate. I'm going to.


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## ohtimberwolf (Dec 17, 2011)

They also need a link to these posts. larry


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

> They also need a link to these posts. larry
> 
> - ohtimberwolf


I agree completely! The dangerous things that grizzly has already asked of the OP alone should have justified the termination of multiple employees. My greatest hope is that this is the number one Google hit when anyone searches for a G0690.


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## unclearthur (Jul 4, 2013)

More amusement: I politely asked for the contact information for whoever is in charge of customer service. The Grizzly rep I have been dealing with refused to give it to me; I'm supposed to send things to him and he will deal with it appropriately.

I realize "letters to the President" generally get intercepted or ignored, but these guys don't even seem to be trying to appear to be interested.

Off to visit my friends!


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

This whole thing is pretty disgusting. Why didn't they send you a new saw and pick up the old one?


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## 280305 (Sep 28, 2008)

One hint that company XYZ has customer service issues is that they feel the need to purchase the domain name XYZsucks.com and redirect it back to XYZ.com:
http://grizzlysucks.com/


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## builtinbkyn (Oct 29, 2015)

Wow I can't believe this got worse. You should cover all your bases so they don't try to claim you didn't act in good faith or that you intentionally did damage to the saw. I hope you contacted your CC company to let them know you'll be expecting a credit back for this purchase.

I have to believe there's something going on internally at Grizzly for this go go the way it did. It could be disgruntled employees that were expecting pay increases and didn't receive them. I mean it appears that some of the people you dealt with are intentionally trying to sabotage the good will of the company. They seem hostile and for no reason other than what is happening behind the scenes. It's still a tough climate for business, so one would think that taking the extra step to ensure customer satisfaction, would be the course of action. This is just a curious situation.


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

Instead of emailing them, one could post on their Facebook page.


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## unclearthur (Jul 4, 2013)

> This whole thing is pretty disgusting. Why didn't they send you a new saw and pick up the old one?
> 
> - knotscott


Exactly. I just returned from returning the saw. Round trip, including unloading the saw at Grizzly and paperwork, just under 4 hours. Near as I can figure, would have been the same for them coming the other direction.



> One hint that company XYZ has customer service issues is that they feel the need to purchase the domain name XYZsucks.com and redirect it back to XYZ.com:
> http://grizzlysucks.com/
> 
> - ChuckV


 LOL Thats too funny.

Goodbye saw:


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

I just posted on the Grizzly Facebook page. I have my doubts if they will actually let it post. They will probably decide not to post it for public view.

I am glad that you got it returned and this ugly thing is over for you.

Good luck finding a new tablesaw and let us know what you decide on.


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

Grizzly sells some machines that cost 5 figures. Judging by the lousy service you got, who would risk spending 5 figures for a machine that might have to be returned. Some of them weigh more than a ton and shipped by freight. Imagine having to re-pack a 2 ton machine and pay to have it shipped back. You could be out several hundred dollars. BUY ONLY FROM REPUTABLE DEALERS.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

Or buy through amazon. They can make it happen.


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

I sent Grizzly an email and did not hear anything.

I also posted on their Facebook page. However, it appears that they do not want any bad posts there. At least, they do not control what is on LJ.


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## builtinbkyn (Oct 29, 2015)

> Or buy through amazon. They can make it happen.
> 
> - TheFridge


I agree Fridge. The only two new machines I purchased - Unisaw and lathe - were thru Amazon Prime, knowing if there were any issues, it was going back at their expense. The lathe just happened to go back at their expense with the replacement next day sent to me. Thankfully the TS was good to go.


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## realcowtown_eric (Feb 4, 2013)

I'm using a new-to-me cabinet saw

My own (which I cannot use)had a dialed in 5/8 shaft (you'd be suprised at how mani had ever so slightly indersized arbors…..)

But when I put a dado stack on this unfamiliar saw, the LH blade is a bear to remove….. haven't miked it yet, but it seems that perhaps the arbor close to the flange is just a tad oversized, so you put the dado set on, an tighten it as you usually do, but it don't quite get there methinks, the load from cutting causes the blade lh blade to spin on the shaft and get a little tighter….and the tight nut becomes looser

At least that's what I'm imagining, does any of that riing a bell?

Eric

Ibid for the shim observations. even though you say you don't use them


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

No matter which thread L or R, the blades are meant to tighten upon start.

I say amazon because a friend of mine bought a jet through them. He was having some bad vibration issues with the saw and before he returned it they stepped in and got everything squared away. Something like that. I know his saw works now and he's happy.


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

I emailed Grizzly with a link to this thread. This is what I got back.

Thank you for your email dated June 19, 2017.

We appreciate your input regarding this issue. We have been assisting this customer with the issues experienced with his machine. Although this customer appears to be claiming that we have not helped him with the machine, we have already replaced it and believed this issue was resolved. We have not been contacted by the customer regarding any other issues, however we will reach out to the customer directly to see if any further assistance is needed.

Please do not hesitate to contact us if we may be of further assistance. You are a valued customer, and we look forward to hearing from you soon.

Sincerely,

Kelly

Grizzly Industrial, Inc.

EN#600319


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Use Twitter, they can't delete your post, and it usually gets a quicker response than email. I've tweeted to 4 or 5 companies this year about issues and gotten an answer within a couple hours at most. 
https://twitter.com/Grizzly

But according to Kelly, you are fixed. Should have taken my advice back in May, sent it back and bought a Unisaw.


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## mer500 (Jun 22, 2017)

Nice Thread


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## unclearthur (Jul 4, 2013)

> I emailed Grizzly with a link to this thread. This is what I got back.
> 
> Thank you for your email dated June 19, 2017.
> 
> ...


@AlaskaGuy - Thanks for sending that email

*However, Kelly is wrong. *Grizzly did not replace the machine; I think I would have of noticed if they slipped a 500 lb tablesaw into my truck. I did return the saw two days ago and they have promised a refund, though I have not received it yet.

Note - I returned the saw at my own time / expense, no help from them. They refused to have someone come fix it and they refused to bring me a new saw to exchange it.

Also, they have not "reached out to me to see if any further assistance is needed", LOL.

When I write Grizzly, they reply usually the next business day. They are always very polite. They say nice things. But what they have actually done for me (or not done) is exactly as described in this thread. Which is to say they sold me a saw that doesn't work and was unsafe, they didn't fix it and they didn't come get it.

Other people's experience may differ, but for me their customer service has been all form and no substance. When finally after 2 months they got around to sending me the replacement part and it arrived in a busted up box and the part didn't fit …..... thats the reality. All the nice words don't mean squat if nobody ever does anything of substance.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

It looks like Grizzly clearly dropped the ball on this one. The issue with the machine is a far lesser problem IMO than the way they dealt with it, which I find disturbing. I think you've been more than fair with Grizzly, and your description of the events seems very objective. Most people would be upset enough to show a clear bias from being totally POed! You're to be commended!


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## ohtimberwolf (Dec 17, 2011)

An untrue response to our poster about replacing the saw and the events that have been completely uncalled for have driven the final nail for me. I am truly sorry for what has happened to you and I admire your patience and believe you have been MUCH fairer to them than they deserve.  
larry


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## mski (Jul 3, 2007)

Check your bearings and or motor your blade should't stop in 3 seconds, especially with the extra weight of a dado it would intensify the loosening effect
Just my 2 pence


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

> Check your bearings and or motor your blade should t stop in 3 seconds, especially with the extra weight of a dado it would intensify the loosening effect
> Just my 2 pence
> 
> - mski


He can't do that. He sent the saw back. It's no longer in his possession.


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## builtinbkyn (Oct 29, 2015)

OP, not sure how you paid for the saw, but they believe they gave you a replacement, so a refund may not be forthcoming. There's obviously a lack of communication within that company, so you need to be proactive about getting your money back. http://lumberjocks.com/topics/221033#


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

I have been following this out of curiosity and have made a few comments. This has gone far enough. I sympathize with unclearthur and hope he finds a good saw. I think of this as 2 months of aggravation, something no one should have to endure.


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## JRsgarage (Jan 2, 2017)

kinda expected behavior from grizzly. definitely, a shoot from the hip type of company….

this was a really frustrating read. really sucks you had to go through this nonsense but not surprised after witnessing their CS


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

Sounds like, as said by at least one other, your arbor will be dead soon (a groove), if it hasn't happened already.


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

Be loud, repeatably.

I just had a windshield replaced in my truck. It's a nice tinted one put in place by SafeLite for $119.00.

I had emails confirming an appointment, drove the hour to civilization in over hundred degree weather, and was sent away, with a claim there was no appointment. I had the email confirmation and included a copy in the sites I expressed my service review on, including facebook.

They called and got me on the line with the fellow at the counter, who claimed he tried to make it good. As I pointed out to their rep, he was full of crap - he only offered to reschedule.

They asked me, several times, what it would take to make me happy. My response was, "No, what are you going to do to make this good." In the end, that's a pretty cheap window and installation.


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## unclearthur (Jul 4, 2013)

Post mortem comment:


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## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

I would replace the arbor nut. Likely it was over tightened, and now it's partially stripped, given a little spin it could spin off.

I'm not implying anything here, just know that it will happen on a dado stack because you don't have the stack tight when you go to tighten it up. As it spins up, all that extra space fills itself up realllllly quick, and that loose spot you leave by not getting it flat and snugged is half way to spinning off. The rest goes downhill quick. It's really easy to do. It's all done at a weird angle to your body, the edges of the blades/chippers get pressed to the threads on the arbor, and for all the world feel tight, but in truth they are at an angle, and have gaps. Spin on the nut to where it feels tight, but the centrifugal force actually does spin it all flat, leaving you with a very loose fit. Whoooopeee nut will spin right off….......

This isn't a rare occurrence, especially on wider spaced dado blades. I imagine you have not seen this on a single blade.


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