# Wet wood glue?



## greg48 (Nov 7, 2010)

A quick question for my fellow LJ'ers, I'm trying to glue up some fresh sawn Incense Cedar. Titebond III failed to set up satisfactorily (I assume from to much moisture content of the wood). Do you think that a polyurethane (ie., Gorilla Glue) would perform since it is moisture activated or would I still have the same problem?
Your response is greatly appreciated.


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## altendky (May 7, 2012)

I think the problem with Gorilla glue is that it foams and expands and drives the joint apart. I'm sure others with actual experience will be able to provide more confident guidance though.


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## Wildwood (Jul 22, 2012)

Polyurethane glues (gorilla and other brands) need some moisture to cure and clamping. Poly glues may also fail for the same reason Titedbond III failed too wet and oily cedar wood! I would prefer an epoxy glue over poly!

Wiping area's to glue with acetone before gluing may help whatever glue you use!


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## benchbuilder (Sep 10, 2011)

I agree with the acetone but dont use it if your using epoxy, they dont mix well. Very bad.. use acetone and then titebond 3. Let it set for about 15 mins after using the acetone and then wipe dry. Let set another 15 mins then glue. Read the label on the acetone before using..works for me, good for treated wood also. Search Chris schwarzs article on using acetone.


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## Ghidrah (Jan 20, 2015)

I use Gorilla glue for outside projects especially if they're going to be within a mile of the ocean. When I glue objects together I clamp them, whether they're glued with titebond, elmers, gorilla glue white or poly or epoxy. Never in all cases of using gorilla poly have any of my joints opened up.

Gorilla poly is like freezing water it seeks the path of least resistance that's why it expands out the joint. In your case I'd think different and let the lumber dry out a bit. Glue it up when swollen will cause gnashing of teeth when it all dries out and shrinks big time. The glue joint is stronger than the wood.


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## Mykos (Jun 27, 2013)

I too would question the wisdom of gluing wet wood. Nothing good can come of that even if you succeed. Why are you attempting this without drying it first ?


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

One more vote for drying it out some, it's just likely to not work very well otherwise.


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## Wildwood (Jul 22, 2012)

Only experience with poly is gluing brass tube to pen blanks and stave construction turned box. Only problem with it has been shelf life. Over at IAP (pen turning), was sent to different test sites where poly receive poor marks. I prefer epoxy & poly glues over CA glue for pen tube glue up!

http://www.oldbrownglue.com/images/articles/HowStrongisYourGlue_FWW.pdf

I agree with not trying to glue wet wood, since don't know wood MC would expect that and cedar oil a problem too! Unless dealing with freshly cut cedar tree, cedar dries fast and normally defect free. So letting the boards hang out for a week or two to reach EMC won't hurt.

I still recommend wiping down glue edge with acetone regardless of the glue going to use!


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## conifur (Apr 1, 2015)

From what I have read, the oils in Incense Cedar and many oily Exotics need to have the gluing surfaces de-oiled prior to glue ups, Acetone, Naphtha, Denatured Alcohol can all be used for this.
Bob


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## greg48 (Nov 7, 2010)

I thank you all for your responses. Perhaps a little more explanation is required here to explain the situation. My grand daughter ask if "we" could build a fairy house for Mom's Day. The picture she had showed curved walls and roof line with little skewed windows and doors. YiaYia called it "whimsical". Not wanting to set up for laminations or kerf cuts on the inside surfaces, I had hoped to glue up some blocks then cut the curves on the band saw. Since it was an outdoor project I opted for cedar and not wanting to buy the scant sawn fencing boards offered by Home Dump, I procured some full sawn fence boards from a local small mill, but they are fresh sawn, I mean that I can "feel" the moisture in my face when ripping the boards.

Time is getting short, so I will plane another board to get a clean surface, wipe the surfaces with acetone, and try another Titebond III glue up. If that works satisfactorily I'll post the project. If not, there's always plan "B", whatever that may be.

Again, thank you all for your responses.


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

Another vote for letting it dry, or buying dry wood. Your nice, flat wood, with smooth curves, could end up being the exact opposite once it dries.

I'm not familiar with Incense Cedar, but if it is anything like Eastern Red Cedar (a.k.a. Aromatic Cedar), TBIII works good on it when it is dry. My ERC cedar chest top is a few years going strong with no ill effects.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

Let it dry. Even if you glue it, it will probably fail.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

I've had polyurethane glue fail from lack of penetration due to excessive moisture. It only needs very little to begin curing and too much will cause it to cure before achieving any real penetration. Yet another vote for letting it dry more or purchasing some that's already dry if you're in a real time crunch.


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