# Equipment SAFETY tips: The Table Saw



## MsDebbieP (Jan 4, 2007)

Safety in the shop tips; for the table saw.

*What are some tips to work safely on and around a table saw?*

(See all SAFETY TIP GATEWAYS here)


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## ellen35 (Jan 1, 2009)

Never, EVER, lose your concentration!


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## rance (Sep 30, 2009)

1) Don't touch the spinney thing. 
2) Keep the blade, miter slot, and fence exactly parallel.


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## Uncle_Salty (Dec 26, 2009)

Raise blade height to 1/4" taller than the stock to be cut.

Never, ever cut "freehand" on the table saw.

When ripping, use a push stick on stock less than X" (depends on your comfort level; I tell my students to use a push stick if the stock is less than the width of your hand with the thumb extended, but my safety test reads 6").

Always use a Splitter/kickback pawl when ripping.

In general, never use a miter gage and the rip fence together to cut a piece of wood (There are exceptions to this… thus the term "in general").


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

1. CONSISTENTLY FOLLOW THE BASIC SAFETY RULES *EVERY TIME* YOU USE THE TS OR THE RULES ARE
USELESS.
2. Always use a splitter when possible
3. Stand to the side of the workpiece so if it does kick back it won't hit you.
4. Always use a push stick and *DON'T GET YOUR FINGERS ANYWHERE NEAR A SPINNING BLADE, EVER!
5. I agree with Rance on the fence being parallel with the blade, but I leave the far end a little off (further away 
from the blade by a very small amount). This reduces the chance of kickback as the workpiece comes away
from the saw blade at the end of the cut.

There are other rules, but for me the above are the main ones.


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## Dez (Mar 28, 2007)

Never wear loose fitting sleeves/clothing. (applies to almost all equipment)

Don't work when you are tired. (applies to almost all equipment and personal experience)

Never reach across the blade. (personal experience)


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

- Use the right blade for the job, and keep it sharp and clean.
- Feather boards and push sticks are your friends!
- Use a splitter or riving knife (the guard is a good idea too).
- Pieces that are flat and straight are easier to control.
- Keep the saw well tuned and aligned.
- Keep the table waxed.
- Think each cut through before cutting.


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## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

Probably the one I violate most often is never operate a table saw when you're not concentrating on anything else but what you are doing with the saw. I'm always busy and always have a lot of things on my mind. This has been the way it is for 40 years. However, so far I've never had an accident that hurt me in any way. I realize that this rule should *never*r be broken.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

always, always, unplug the power before touching/changing blades. "a good tuned saw is a safe saw" - me


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

Some may argue that this is not a safety tip, BUT how about using Bostik Dricote on your TS blade regularly. It made such a difference in cutting resistance that I almost couldn't believe it, especially when I was ripping 8/4×9" x 10ft Ash using a 24-tooth Rip Freud blade. It's not cheap but all I can say is WOW. Anything that minimizes the pushing effort on big lumber has my vote.


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## NH_Hermit (Dec 3, 2009)

Good question, Debbie.

and good responses. I really like Rance's first rule. I'll try to remember that one.

We can never be reminded too much to keep our wits about us.


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## Kirk (Apr 20, 2007)

If you don't know what your doing, don't use it.

One thing has helped my Table Saw, the table surface is slick. That has meant more to me than anything except for dust collection. I had my table Blanchard ground, because it's surface was rough to the point it was like sandpaper. Next to impossible to slide the wood across the table.


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## biglarry (Jan 15, 2011)

As Ellen said "Never, EVER, lose your concentration!"

Working one evening doing a lot of repetitive cuts I was one the last cut and started to thing what the next step was and somehow put my left thumb in the blade. Luckily it only cut part way through but if you look at an x-ray you can see the blade kerf.

Also if you are doing a ton of ripping get a power feed. It can also be used when making moldings on a router table.


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## cornflake (Jan 13, 2011)

i have two:

1 always wear eye protection

2 never make push sticks out of plexiglass


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## croessler (Jun 22, 2007)

As someone that has suffered the amputation, and reattachment, of a digit I have to say ALWAYS err on the side of safety. Also, Until recently I have never really used an out feed table or support but have become convinced of their value as a safety device. It keeps me from reaching near or past the blade the blade. I just give the piece an extra little shove with the push stick and it slides onto the table.


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## canadianchips (Mar 12, 2010)

Have the floor area in front, side and back of table saw CLEAR. 
Avoid tripping on something laying on the floor.
If it is a portable table saw, make sure it is sitting on SOLID table, avoid a rocking or tippy table saw, same goes for outfeed table.
Avoid stacking materials on side of table saw top as you are cutting. Very tempting, use another table to stack your work.
Avoid loose clothing while working on any power tool with spinning blades !
Never use your cast iron table top as a hammer pounding surface !


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## Grumpy (Nov 9, 2007)

Ditto eye protection & use a featherboard and push sticks as often as permits.


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## ETwoodworks (Jan 10, 2011)

Maybe its just me but be carefull about who is around. A few friends and family members have thought it a good idea to pull the stock out the back end of the saw while i was ripping. Nothing bad came from it but it scared me each time. I am glad they all know better now and I still have all my fingers.


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## Magnum (Feb 5, 2010)

I Totall Agree with… CONCENTRATE Totally…. when you're working with ANY Power Tools. Also Be Confident with the Saw. If you're the least bit afraid of using it. It will probably BITE YOU!

I have a habit of concentrating on the Spot where the lead edge/corner of the wood touches the Rip Fence and Keeping it tight through the Entire Cut. Mainly for a Good Cut. It also avoids Kickback as mentioned above. Never had a kick back though.

ERIC: No No No. Never let Anyone do that! They'll move it out of line somehow for sure! Hello Kickback or Worse.

*Sniff Sniff Sniff??* Anybody else smell some *SPAM Cooking up at Post #17*, "mante", a Member for 2 Hours now??

Rick


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## bernwood (Aug 19, 2010)

All good posts… push sticks, splitters, clean work area,right blade, slick table, concentration, proper clothing… all good. A couple of things I'd like to add is always unplug the machine when changing blade. The other thing is the table saw itself and some may not like this but I find a 2HP saw just the right tool for me. In the 10 years I have owned my saw, I have only kicked the reset button twice which meant I had to slow that particular cut a bit. I could rewire my saw to a 3HP and the manual shows me how to do it… but why? I like the idea that I'm stronger then my saw. I make push sticks with long noses to keep the wood pressed down on the table and every once in a while I can hear the saw being overworked so I slow down the feed rate. I did invest in good blades and I always take the time to change them to fit the cut.


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## SnowyRiver (Nov 14, 2008)

Lot of great responses and all worth following. My suggestion, and one that is often overlooked especially by beginners, is always use a splitter or riving knife.


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## Kristoffer (Aug 5, 2009)

On any portable TS (or bench top tool in general), make sure that the saw is is bolted well to the base. If you rearrange your shop or bring a tool back from a job site, bolt or screw it back to it's base or bench immediately.

Here is one thing that I NEVER thought that I would do….. But, did. I have a large Jet contractor's TS. I had to take it to a job site to do a fire place surround. When my friend and I brought it back to the shop, it was very cold, so we just set everything it general area and left. When I went to use the table saw again, I had to spin it around. while doing so, the saw fell off of it's base and onto the floor. This ended out bending one of the rails. Now I need a new set of rails and a week off of work (since I hurt my back picking it back up by myself). I have no idea of what could have happened if it fell while I was using it to me a cut. But, I don't think that it would have been good. 
It seems mindless, but those are the types of things that get ya.


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## SCOTSMAN (Aug 1, 2008)

Remember always have the smaller piece of wood to the far side of the blade ,so if you have a 3" piece of wood and want to remove a quarter inch don't have it set up so the quarter inch is nearest to the blade and the larger excess is outside of the blade always have the smallest piece fall of to the side and not wedge between the blade and fence.otherwise you can have the wood thrown back at you at bullet speed,and also it can wedge between the blade and the gap and be pulled dow the gap by the force of the rotation of the blade .Alistair


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## miles125 (Jun 8, 2007)

If the cord on your hedge trimmer has been cut and repaired more than twice, you don't need a table saw.


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## Magnum (Feb 5, 2010)

Point Of Clarification Please:

In my above Post #18 I mentioned that Post #17 was SPAM. That Post was removed. Eric is now Post #17. He Ain't a Spammer. In fact his Signature Line "Work smart not hard" applies Very Nicely to what this Post is all about!!!

That was MY Error! I should have "Flagged it" as soon as I saw it. Debbie Corrected me on that Point and She was Absolutely Correct to do so. Thank you Debbie.

Rick

PS: Just in case you don't know what SPAM is…...









Just Kiddin' around Folks.


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## rogerw (Jan 14, 2011)

This all sounds like sound advice. Think through the cut before you actually do it and if you don't feel comfortable making a certain cut, don't do it. Figure out a different way to do it and NEVER lean over the table. Zero clearance insert is a good idea for small cuts.

The only one of these cautions I am guilty of breaking is the use of my blade guard. I took mine off and couldn't tell you where it is right now. I would rather see the blade and know where it is instead of it being hidden under a guard and not visible.


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## Manitario (Jul 4, 2010)

pushstick, never freehand, raise the blade above the stock to only the height you want to cut your fingers with. Always use a splitter. 
I don't use my blade guard (I have a riving knife on instead). I found the blade guard a nuisance, especially when trying to rip thinner pieces. I've often wondered though if I'm perhaps taking a big risk by not using it.


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## HomerJayS (Jan 23, 2011)

NEVER "modify" any tool especially your TS. And keep kids away while you are working. My nephews get excited when they see me working on something and immediately want to "help".


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## JeremyM (Jan 25, 2011)

Keep the blade just above the material you are cutting, never allow yourself to be distracted, always use hearing and eye protection. Keep a close on on your material and keep your hands away from the blade, use a push stick if you need to.


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## engineerkid (Jan 25, 2011)

These are all FANTASTIC safety tips. My dad and I recently bought an old 1950's Craftsman table saw, and let me tell you, there is nothing safe about it! We bought the Grr-ripper, and i made my self useful by making zero-clearance inserts for all of our blades. I'm also waiting on a new fence to install. As the saying goes "your table saw is only as good as its fence system." If you guys don't have a good fence, I would suggest investing in one. With a good fence system, you can make precision cuts, but you aslo keep the wood straight when cutting, preventing a majority of possible kick back.

Just by reading this I feel much safer using my saw.


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## Wolffarmer (Jul 14, 2009)

I would like to add one I did not see.

Have enough light.

Randy


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## mrjoeg (Jan 14, 2011)

Not much has been said here about Pre task planning.
Do I have a plan?
Have I identified the hazards ?
Will it fit ?
Can I do it safely in the time allotted?

If the plan changes Stop and re evaluate the situation.
I have sat in many root cause recordable investigations " post workplace injury" in almost every case we hear the following contributing factors:

 I just had to reach a little further for only a second to grab the ….... I didn't think that.
 What we were doing was not working at the last moment we decided to try ….......
 I knew I was cutting a corner but I just wanted to get the task done.
 We didn't think.
 I knew the tool was not working properly, I thought I could make due thru the shift.
Every one of these folks meant well and are confident journeymen who have on average had between 10 - 20 years experience .
The good news is with increased attention to safety Pre task planning there has been a significant decrease in serious injuries in the trades.
Now the norm seems to be more strains and back strains as a result of Improper material handling.
Sorry for the rant, but I have seen first hand how slight changes in safety has paid off.


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## cabmaker (Sep 16, 2010)

One that you may want to keep in mind is: KNOW WHERE THE SWITCH IS AND PRACTICE GETTING TO IT WITHOUT LOOKING . If you use the table saw much you will at some point need to know this. happy sawing !


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## devann (Jan 11, 2011)

Everything above is a good read and worth the time to check it out. Here's a couple more to add to the mix. Push stick, I push it right over the blade, pushing both pieces through. I had small drop come fliying back at me one day, don't like the way that feels. For eye protection I've switched to a full face flipup shield, got an oak spinter in my lip one day, and allows you to wear eyeglasses sometimes. Zero clearance inserts, have one for each angle you want to tilt the blade to. Keeps little pieces from dropping into the blade and becoming missiles back at you.


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## Gofor (Jan 12, 2008)

All great points. A couple more:

If it jams, stops moving, or starts making funny noises: Shut Off Saw First, and then figure out the cause.

Set up every cut to where you can remove both hands from the saw/work at any time without the work kicking up or back out.

That last one could also be titled: Expect the unexpected;

I was working in my garage, hearing protection on, eye protection on, fully concentrated on ripping the oak boards I was making a bench top from. Door up to give me extra room to feed in the 6 foot 2" thick boards. Just as I was pushing the last foot of the cut past the blade, I got a strong shove upward from behind in my nether region! Had I not had a blade guard and splitter; had the floor been slick with sawdust; and had I not been using a good solid push block, I may have been really mangled before realizing it was the neighbor's 85 lb Black Lab that had escaped her fenced yard and was just "checking me out". Just her way of saying "Hey neighbor, hate to interrupt, but could you take me back home?"

Not to say these things happen often, but you can't plan for everything. If it feels unsafe, don't do it until you do feel its safe.

Good thread. Thanks Ms Debbie

Go


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## GregD (Oct 24, 2009)

My top 2 for the table saw:

1. Always use an outfeed table, and an infeed table as necessary. You want to focus all your attention on guiding the work. You do *not* want to have to fight gravity.

2. Use push blocks while ripping whenever possible. Keep a firm grip on your workpiece all the way through the cut. If something starts to go bad, HOLD ON while you take corrective action.


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## dusty2 (Jan 4, 2009)

Frank V: When the kids are there and they want to help is the ideal time to employ them and teach them safe shop practices. Keeping them away, is in my opinion, not what you want to do. It only momentarily keeps them safe.


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## SeaWitch (Nov 5, 2011)

I don't think anyone mentioned this:

I recommend using a GRR-ripper for safety. Here.

Also, always keep hair tied back and away from your face. A) Hair can get caught in moving parts and B) You lose concentration if you spend time getting it out of your eyes.


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

Don't buy that junk they tell you on woodworking shows that "the blade guard is removed for clarity". You can see the blade just fine with it on, so LEAVE IT ON for every cut you can- and if you have to remove it for non through cuts, put it right back on afterward.

*Blade guards remind you where not to put your hands, they help protect you from flying chips and they protect you from getting hurt when you "reach over the blade" as everyone does from time to time without thinking.*


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## Vrtigo1 (Mar 18, 2010)

I second cabmakers suggestion about knowing where the off switch is. Mine is mounted such that I can keep my knee against it to turn the saw off without taking my hands off the stock if necessary.

Always unplug when changing blades.

Always press the off button before plugging the saw back in.

When making several small, identically sized crosscuts, make the offcuts fall to the outside of the blade. It may take longer but it lowers the chance of kickback.


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## Sawkerf (Dec 31, 2009)

When you're doing an operation that you aren't completely familiar with, do some dry runs (saw turned off and blade lowered) while you decide exaxtly how you'll do it - i.e. stand here, hold there, shift position somewhere, etc.

A few years ago, I helped my daughter and son-in-law make a small cabinet and we spent almost an hour making dry runs for ripping, cross cutting, etc, before the saw was started. It seemed to make a real difference. They were very cautious, but always in control.


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## Noor (Sep 20, 2011)

Don't be in such a hurry that you don't remove things in the wood that you should not cut - staples, nails, rocks, etc.


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## RKaste (Jun 30, 2012)

Think about the cut before you turn on the table saw, make sure you have everything you need in reach and out of the way of the cut, and never lose your concentration.


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## George_SA (May 4, 2012)

1) If you are in a hurry, don't turn the saw on, close the shop and come back when you have more time. 
I ignored this rule once and paid the price! I had to fetch my daughter from school and was running late, but I wanted to make one last cut before leaving. I cut my thumb! Luckily I followed the rule of only raising the blade a only bit above the work piece. No bones were cut, but I had a 3mm kerf in my thumb. 
2) If you get frustrated, turn the saw off, close the shop and come back another day when you are more relaxed.
3) I need to see exactly where the blade is in relation with what I am cutting and where my hands are.


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## Alexandre (May 26, 2012)

One rule…
Just dont hurt yourself


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