# Shop Built Hand Tools



## USCJeff (Apr 6, 2007)

*Block Plane Trial*

I recently posted a project of my first attempt at a plane. I was very happy with the outcome, both appearance and function. After putting it to work on scraps and such to give it a real trial, I've found some fatal flaws. I initially blamed the the original designer, which was submitted to Wood Magazine. I then decided that I took too many liberties and caused the error. The big problem is the wedge and rod that secures the iron. The plane sides are not quite .25". I gave the wedge a a moderate tap and one side split by the wedge rod. I epoxied it back and it happened on the other side a day later. I'm debating between laminating the sides thicker or letting it look pretty on a shelf and starting over. The wedge really doesn't hold the iron very well. The iron backs out after several swipes. I think the rod might be too far back on the iron. I can't be certain, but maybe the wedge would hold better if the pressure was closer to the point of force. Any thoughts? All my metal planes have cap screws or such to hold the iron. Wooden planes don't for the most part, based on what I've seen.


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

USCJeff said:


> *Block Plane Trial*
> 
> I recently posted a project of my first attempt at a plane. I was very happy with the outcome, both appearance and function. After putting it to work on scraps and such to give it a real trial, I've found some fatal flaws. I initially blamed the the original designer, which was submitted to Wood Magazine. I then decided that I took too many liberties and caused the error. The big problem is the wedge and rod that secures the iron. The plane sides are not quite .25". I gave the wedge a a moderate tap and one side split by the wedge rod. I epoxied it back and it happened on the other side a day later. I'm debating between laminating the sides thicker or letting it look pretty on a shelf and starting over. The wedge really doesn't hold the iron very well. The iron backs out after several swipes. I think the rod might be too far back on the iron. I can't be certain, but maybe the wedge would hold better if the pressure was closer to the point of force. Any thoughts? All my metal planes have cap screws or such to hold the iron. Wooden planes don't for the most part, based on what I've seen.


This is a real downer, Jeff. I hope that you can solve the design difficulty that you are facing.

Good luck. And keep us posted on your progress.


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## jcees (Dec 31, 2007)

USCJeff said:


> *Block Plane Trial*
> 
> I recently posted a project of my first attempt at a plane. I was very happy with the outcome, both appearance and function. After putting it to work on scraps and such to give it a real trial, I've found some fatal flaws. I initially blamed the the original designer, which was submitted to Wood Magazine. I then decided that I took too many liberties and caused the error. The big problem is the wedge and rod that secures the iron. The plane sides are not quite .25". I gave the wedge a a moderate tap and one side split by the wedge rod. I epoxied it back and it happened on the other side a day later. I'm debating between laminating the sides thicker or letting it look pretty on a shelf and starting over. The wedge really doesn't hold the iron very well. The iron backs out after several swipes. I think the rod might be too far back on the iron. I can't be certain, but maybe the wedge would hold better if the pressure was closer to the point of force. Any thoughts? All my metal planes have cap screws or such to hold the iron. Wooden planes don't for the most part, based on what I've seen.


The pic is a bit small but I'm guessing the amount of wood above the rod is way too close to the top edge. Not enough meat there. Also, you'll always have a problem with the iron backing out due to the metal rod. A beefy wooden one would give you a bunch more friction and a better grip on the iron. Basically, you're trying to hold a wooden wedge between two slick metal surfaces. Not good.

I'm assuming there isn't a chip breaker? If not, that adds up to bad geometry as there is no opposing wedge shape to secure the blade from creeping backward under use. The editors of Wood magazine should know better. But then again, that's part of the reason I don't subscribe to that magazine anymore.

Personally, I think this one's a pretty paper weight. For building wooden planes you might want to give a look at Krenov's plans for wooden planes. He specifies a wooden pressure bar that is *NOT *round in cross section rather it is more like a bloated triangle. I have three such planes [I didn't build them] and they hold the iron fast and can take a shaving that's the envy of an English infill plane.

Sorry for the problems but all of woodworking is a process of learning and amending your discoveries.

always,
J.C.


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## USCJeff (Apr 6, 2007)

USCJeff said:


> *Block Plane Trial*
> 
> I recently posted a project of my first attempt at a plane. I was very happy with the outcome, both appearance and function. After putting it to work on scraps and such to give it a real trial, I've found some fatal flaws. I initially blamed the the original designer, which was submitted to Wood Magazine. I then decided that I took too many liberties and caused the error. The big problem is the wedge and rod that secures the iron. The plane sides are not quite .25". I gave the wedge a a moderate tap and one side split by the wedge rod. I epoxied it back and it happened on the other side a day later. I'm debating between laminating the sides thicker or letting it look pretty on a shelf and starting over. The wedge really doesn't hold the iron very well. The iron backs out after several swipes. I think the rod might be too far back on the iron. I can't be certain, but maybe the wedge would hold better if the pressure was closer to the point of force. Any thoughts? All my metal planes have cap screws or such to hold the iron. Wooden planes don't for the most part, based on what I've seen.


Thanks for the candid comments J.C.. I'm with you on the paperweight thing. I haven't read Krenov's book, but have seen it referenced over and over. So, I have parts here and there as well as plenty of photos and such of his work. His website has some good stuff as well if I remember right.

The friction comments also make sense. The plane iron definitely isn't designed to resist wood. I've seen planes that don't really have rods for the wedge. They have triangular crevices shaped to compliment the wedge on the inside wall of the sides.

Back to the drawing board. One of the reasons I love woodworking is the problem solving and trial aspects. "I need this outcome. . . what wlil get me there?" Your Einstein quotation shares that somewhat.


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## Radish (Apr 11, 2007)

USCJeff said:


> *Block Plane Trial*
> 
> I recently posted a project of my first attempt at a plane. I was very happy with the outcome, both appearance and function. After putting it to work on scraps and such to give it a real trial, I've found some fatal flaws. I initially blamed the the original designer, which was submitted to Wood Magazine. I then decided that I took too many liberties and caused the error. The big problem is the wedge and rod that secures the iron. The plane sides are not quite .25". I gave the wedge a a moderate tap and one side split by the wedge rod. I epoxied it back and it happened on the other side a day later. I'm debating between laminating the sides thicker or letting it look pretty on a shelf and starting over. The wedge really doesn't hold the iron very well. The iron backs out after several swipes. I think the rod might be too far back on the iron. I can't be certain, but maybe the wedge would hold better if the pressure was closer to the point of force. Any thoughts? All my metal planes have cap screws or such to hold the iron. Wooden planes don't for the most part, based on what I've seen.


Jeff.
A recent article on wooden planes in FWW had a front cross dowel that looked like the letter D in cross section, with the straight side against the blade/chipbreaker assembly. Round tenons were formed on this piece and it was allowed to swivel while the dowels in front of the mouth and behind the blade bed actually held the plane together. Good luck in your hunt for the perfect woody. I have a few 1 7/8 blades hanging around from scavenging, so I'll be looking to see how the adventure continues.


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## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

USCJeff said:


> *Block Plane Trial*
> 
> I recently posted a project of my first attempt at a plane. I was very happy with the outcome, both appearance and function. After putting it to work on scraps and such to give it a real trial, I've found some fatal flaws. I initially blamed the the original designer, which was submitted to Wood Magazine. I then decided that I took too many liberties and caused the error. The big problem is the wedge and rod that secures the iron. The plane sides are not quite .25". I gave the wedge a a moderate tap and one side split by the wedge rod. I epoxied it back and it happened on the other side a day later. I'm debating between laminating the sides thicker or letting it look pretty on a shelf and starting over. The wedge really doesn't hold the iron very well. The iron backs out after several swipes. I think the rod might be too far back on the iron. I can't be certain, but maybe the wedge would hold better if the pressure was closer to the point of force. Any thoughts? All my metal planes have cap screws or such to hold the iron. Wooden planes don't for the most part, based on what I've seen.


Jeff - sorry about the problems you are having with the plane building. Keep at it, planes are sooooo much fun to use.


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## USCJeff (Apr 6, 2007)

*Router Plane*

I'll keep this brief as I gave a full account in the project section. I wanted to have it within this series as well, however as it is applicable.

I'd suggest this to anyone that will not be using this tool on a daily basis. It does a good job leveling out dadoes and grooves. It does a fair job with hinge mortising as well, but I still prefer a laminate router and light chiseling for this application. Check out the project link for construction details and shots.


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## USCJeff (Apr 6, 2007)

*My favorite Sanding Block*

I have a few sanding blocks, but this one gets the most use. Design is a take off of a Wood Magazine article. The pictures are telling as to the construction. The only hidden detail is there is a plugged hole under the felt. It is for the screw that is epoxied to the bottom that attaches to the wingnut. I chose hardwood scraps that I had on hand. They consist of cherry and two different walnut species. The felt was a self adhesive scrap left over from a jewelry box project. It measures about 4×3". The plastic wingnut is loosened to raise the top to change paper. It is tightened to clamp it. The felt helps by allowing a little give when flattening a board. Cork could serve the same purpose if that's what's on hand. After a while using it, I used a core box bit to route the grooves for my fingers. Makes it quite a bit more ergonomic. Simple thing, but it sees a lot of use.


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

USCJeff said:


> *My favorite Sanding Block*
> 
> I have a few sanding blocks, but this one gets the most use. Design is a take off of a Wood Magazine article. The pictures are telling as to the construction. The only hidden detail is there is a plugged hole under the felt. It is for the screw that is epoxied to the bottom that attaches to the wingnut. I chose hardwood scraps that I had on hand. They consist of cherry and two different walnut species. The felt was a self adhesive scrap left over from a jewelry box project. It measures about 4×3". The plastic wingnut is loosened to raise the top to change paper. It is tightened to clamp it. The felt helps by allowing a little give when flattening a board. Cork could serve the same purpose if that's what's on hand. After a while using it, I used a core box bit to route the grooves for my fingers. Makes it quite a bit more ergonomic. Simple thing, but it sees a lot of use.


This is a nice sanding block and a clever use of "scrap" materials. The felt should serve as well as cork in providing a cushion for the sandpaper.

This is interesting. Thanks for the post, Jeff.


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## Hawgnutz (Mar 29, 2007)

USCJeff said:


> *My favorite Sanding Block*
> 
> I have a few sanding blocks, but this one gets the most use. Design is a take off of a Wood Magazine article. The pictures are telling as to the construction. The only hidden detail is there is a plugged hole under the felt. It is for the screw that is epoxied to the bottom that attaches to the wingnut. I chose hardwood scraps that I had on hand. They consist of cherry and two different walnut species. The felt was a self adhesive scrap left over from a jewelry box project. It measures about 4×3". The plastic wingnut is loosened to raise the top to change paper. It is tightened to clamp it. The felt helps by allowing a little give when flattening a board. Cork could serve the same purpose if that's what's on hand. After a while using it, I used a core box bit to route the grooves for my fingers. Makes it quite a bit more ergonomic. Simple thing, but it sees a lot of use.


That sure is a nice sanding block. I need one soon, so I may use this as an inspiration.

Good Job!

God Bless,
Hawg


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## Taigert (Nov 20, 2007)

USCJeff said:


> *My favorite Sanding Block*
> 
> I have a few sanding blocks, but this one gets the most use. Design is a take off of a Wood Magazine article. The pictures are telling as to the construction. The only hidden detail is there is a plugged hole under the felt. It is for the screw that is epoxied to the bottom that attaches to the wingnut. I chose hardwood scraps that I had on hand. They consist of cherry and two different walnut species. The felt was a self adhesive scrap left over from a jewelry box project. It measures about 4×3". The plastic wingnut is loosened to raise the top to change paper. It is tightened to clamp it. The felt helps by allowing a little give when flattening a board. Cork could serve the same purpose if that's what's on hand. After a while using it, I used a core box bit to route the grooves for my fingers. Makes it quite a bit more ergonomic. Simple thing, but it sees a lot of use.


I like that idea, looks comfortable


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

USCJeff said:


> *My favorite Sanding Block*
> 
> I have a few sanding blocks, but this one gets the most use. Design is a take off of a Wood Magazine article. The pictures are telling as to the construction. The only hidden detail is there is a plugged hole under the felt. It is for the screw that is epoxied to the bottom that attaches to the wingnut. I chose hardwood scraps that I had on hand. They consist of cherry and two different walnut species. The felt was a self adhesive scrap left over from a jewelry box project. It measures about 4×3". The plastic wingnut is loosened to raise the top to change paper. It is tightened to clamp it. The felt helps by allowing a little give when flattening a board. Cork could serve the same purpose if that's what's on hand. After a while using it, I used a core box bit to route the grooves for my fingers. Makes it quite a bit more ergonomic. Simple thing, but it sees a lot of use.


OH, that is rich. It looks like an executive sanding block. 
Very nice looking - actually GREAT looking sanding block!


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## Jon3 (Feb 28, 2007)

USCJeff said:


> *My favorite Sanding Block*
> 
> I have a few sanding blocks, but this one gets the most use. Design is a take off of a Wood Magazine article. The pictures are telling as to the construction. The only hidden detail is there is a plugged hole under the felt. It is for the screw that is epoxied to the bottom that attaches to the wingnut. I chose hardwood scraps that I had on hand. They consist of cherry and two different walnut species. The felt was a self adhesive scrap left over from a jewelry box project. It measures about 4×3". The plastic wingnut is loosened to raise the top to change paper. It is tightened to clamp it. The felt helps by allowing a little give when flattening a board. Cork could serve the same purpose if that's what's on hand. After a while using it, I used a core box bit to route the grooves for my fingers. Makes it quite a bit more ergonomic. Simple thing, but it sees a lot of use.


I'd love to see some bigger photos!


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## saddlesore (Oct 17, 2007)

USCJeff said:


> *My favorite Sanding Block*
> 
> I have a few sanding blocks, but this one gets the most use. Design is a take off of a Wood Magazine article. The pictures are telling as to the construction. The only hidden detail is there is a plugged hole under the felt. It is for the screw that is epoxied to the bottom that attaches to the wingnut. I chose hardwood scraps that I had on hand. They consist of cherry and two different walnut species. The felt was a self adhesive scrap left over from a jewelry box project. It measures about 4×3". The plastic wingnut is loosened to raise the top to change paper. It is tightened to clamp it. The felt helps by allowing a little give when flattening a board. Cork could serve the same purpose if that's what's on hand. After a while using it, I used a core box bit to route the grooves for my fingers. Makes it quite a bit more ergonomic. Simple thing, but it sees a lot of use.


The simple things are sometimes the best things, and most useful.


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## Dusty56 (Apr 20, 2008)

USCJeff said:


> *My favorite Sanding Block*
> 
> I have a few sanding blocks, but this one gets the most use. Design is a take off of a Wood Magazine article. The pictures are telling as to the construction. The only hidden detail is there is a plugged hole under the felt. It is for the screw that is epoxied to the bottom that attaches to the wingnut. I chose hardwood scraps that I had on hand. They consist of cherry and two different walnut species. The felt was a self adhesive scrap left over from a jewelry box project. It measures about 4×3". The plastic wingnut is loosened to raise the top to change paper. It is tightened to clamp it. The felt helps by allowing a little give when flattening a board. Cork could serve the same purpose if that's what's on hand. After a while using it, I used a core box bit to route the grooves for my fingers. Makes it quite a bit more ergonomic. Simple thing, but it sees a lot of use.


Hi , any larger pix available ?


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## USCJeff (Apr 6, 2007)

USCJeff said:


> *My favorite Sanding Block*
> 
> I have a few sanding blocks, but this one gets the most use. Design is a take off of a Wood Magazine article. The pictures are telling as to the construction. The only hidden detail is there is a plugged hole under the felt. It is for the screw that is epoxied to the bottom that attaches to the wingnut. I chose hardwood scraps that I had on hand. They consist of cherry and two different walnut species. The felt was a self adhesive scrap left over from a jewelry box project. It measures about 4×3". The plastic wingnut is loosened to raise the top to change paper. It is tightened to clamp it. The felt helps by allowing a little give when flattening a board. Cork could serve the same purpose if that's what's on hand. After a while using it, I used a core box bit to route the grooves for my fingers. Makes it quite a bit more ergonomic. Simple thing, but it sees a lot of use.


I'll post some larger shots in the morning. They're on a different PC. If you click the pics, it will take you to Photobucket. You can resize the pics, but you lose some clarity.


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## abie (Jan 28, 2008)

USCJeff said:


> *My favorite Sanding Block*
> 
> I have a few sanding blocks, but this one gets the most use. Design is a take off of a Wood Magazine article. The pictures are telling as to the construction. The only hidden detail is there is a plugged hole under the felt. It is for the screw that is epoxied to the bottom that attaches to the wingnut. I chose hardwood scraps that I had on hand. They consist of cherry and two different walnut species. The felt was a self adhesive scrap left over from a jewelry box project. It measures about 4×3". The plastic wingnut is loosened to raise the top to change paper. It is tightened to clamp it. The felt helps by allowing a little give when flattening a board. Cork could serve the same purpose if that's what's on hand. After a while using it, I used a core box bit to route the grooves for my fingers. Makes it quite a bit more ergonomic. Simple thing, but it sees a lot of use.


I've built many even to give to wood working friends.
very handy and easy to use.


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## USCJeff (Apr 6, 2007)

*Krenov Plane*

I just finished posting my latest plane attempt. It was another rewarding process. I learn a little more about the mechanics involved with each attempt. One thing I didn't realize, was that I really got the chance to practice woodworking with extremely strict tolerances. A slightly thin tenon is one thing, a slightly slanted iron ramp is another. I've also appreciated the need for sharp cutting edges. I'm learning that I don't want to stick with the "Scary Sharp" system forever. It works, it just works slowly. I'm really wanting a WorkSharp. At $200, it seems to be a great compromise between value and quality. More time cutting wood, less time sharpening.


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## Taigert (Nov 20, 2007)

USCJeff said:


> *Krenov Plane*
> 
> I just finished posting my latest plane attempt. It was another rewarding process. I learn a little more about the mechanics involved with each attempt. One thing I didn't realize, was that I really got the chance to practice woodworking with extremely strict tolerances. A slightly thin tenon is one thing, a slightly slanted iron ramp is another. I've also appreciated the need for sharp cutting edges. I'm learning that I don't want to stick with the "Scary Sharp" system forever. It works, it just works slowly. I'm really wanting a WorkSharp. At $200, it seems to be a great compromise between value and quality. More time cutting wood, less time sharpening.


Jeff, 
Working within very close tolerences can be challenging to say the least. I recently posted a project in the form of a challenge on the forum about "skills". The challenge is to construct a 6" cube that that rec's a P-lam surface on all six sides. The cube must be constructed with rabbet joinery and then glued. The surace will then rec. laminate as to cover all six surfaces. The final result is to have the cube finish at 6" + or - 1/64th, and be square in all directions. So far not many have taken the challenge.
The construction of a high quality tools such as Plane will reguire the same skill set. This is what I enjoy about woodworking is the constant challenges we are faced with. I have been told by others that there are few things more satisfiing as using a plane you have made yourself. And seeing beautiful thin even wisps of wood curling up out of the opening, with each pass you make! I am hoping to find the time this summer to try my hand at making a couple of planes myself. School is finished tommorow till September, so I will have more time for personal projects.
What type of blade are you using?
As to the issue of sharpening, have you ever used Japanese water stones. I have access to a number of different sharpening methods at school. We have a number of different sharpening machines we can use. But most of us , including myself prefer the results obtained with the water stones. I found that I am able to produce such a sharp edge, that maintaining that edge requires very little time, or effort. I finish out my sharpening with a 8000 grit stone, and the results are great.


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## USCJeff (Apr 6, 2007)

*Catching up from the blogging hiatus*

I really liked this series of Hand-Made tools that I stopped updating for whatever reason. I enjoy coming back to these and remembering what was in my head when these were done. As a hobbyist, my only training comes through trials and these little notes help the lessons hit home.

The biggest thing since my last entry was the acquisition of a lathe. It's just a Shop Fox mini with an extension, but it gets it done for what I want to do. I do wish I'd opted for an electronic speed control. The pulleys don't take long, but it still is a chore. Anyways, with the lathe came a whole new dimension of possibilities in tool making. After getting bored to death after dozens of pens and a few grinders, tool handles and the like were next up. I'll put some links on the bottom to the posted projects. I grinded off the plastic handles of some chisels and files and turned wooden handles that feel better as well as looking cool. I'm going to save the specifics since I've skipped a lot of projects since the last entry. The links give the details of each.

The router plane (not entirely an original concept, to be fair) I posted has easily gotten the most attention. I've only used it a few times since though. I love the purpleheart chisel handles and round mallet. Not a purple fan, but they are very dense and have held up when used by my abusive habits.

My third shot at a Krenov plane was miles better than the first. Like I said, lessons learned and corrections made.

Other than the chisels, I go to a 6-in-1 screwdriver kit by Rockler most often. Its nothing special and doesn't require much turning ability, but it is all about contouring to my grip. Not a big deal, but it does give some satisfaction when using it.

Link to first set of Multiple Turnings and misc tools

Link to second set of Multiple Turnings

Chisel Plane (rarely sees use): here

Krenov Plane #3: here

Small Pen style Marking Knife for intricate layouts (dovetails especially): Here

Large and Medium Marking Knifes for Large Scale Layout: Here

And the most current one, a Shoulder Plane: here


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## USCJeff (Apr 6, 2007)

*Guess and check method taking some time*

I posted a shoulder plane I built several days ago and should have held off until giving it a solid trial run. It had issues in more than one spot. The mouth was too open for my tastes. There was also a good bit of chatter because the wedge ended too far up the blade. The wedge also was short on the top side and after tapping it barely protruded. I made a bunch of changes to try to salvage and got close. The sides ended up too skinny after all the extra sanding created by mistakes. The wedge hasn't blown out the sides yet, but it's coming without doubt. The pic below shows a few changes that were nice. I added a mahogany sole to close up the mouth and also turned 21/64" Mahogany dowels for cross-pins. The wedge is still not correct as I didn't want to take the time for it knowing the plane would be scrapped once I redo it from the beginning.


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## dkirtley (Mar 11, 2010)

USCJeff said:


> *Guess and check method taking some time*
> 
> I posted a shoulder plane I built several days ago and should have held off until giving it a solid trial run. It had issues in more than one spot. The mouth was too open for my tastes. There was also a good bit of chatter because the wedge ended too far up the blade. The wedge also was short on the top side and after tapping it barely protruded. I made a bunch of changes to try to salvage and got close. The sides ended up too skinny after all the extra sanding created by mistakes. The wedge hasn't blown out the sides yet, but it's coming without doubt. The pic below shows a few changes that were nice. I added a mahogany sole to close up the mouth and also turned 21/64" Mahogany dowels for cross-pins. The wedge is still not correct as I didn't want to take the time for it knowing the plane would be scrapped once I redo it from the beginning.


I don't see anything wrong with it. If the wedge is too short, make a bigger one. I would say make an additional plane rather than remaking this one.


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## jjw5858 (Apr 11, 2011)

USCJeff said:


> *Guess and check method taking some time*
> 
> I posted a shoulder plane I built several days ago and should have held off until giving it a solid trial run. It had issues in more than one spot. The mouth was too open for my tastes. There was also a good bit of chatter because the wedge ended too far up the blade. The wedge also was short on the top side and after tapping it barely protruded. I made a bunch of changes to try to salvage and got close. The sides ended up too skinny after all the extra sanding created by mistakes. The wedge hasn't blown out the sides yet, but it's coming without doubt. The pic below shows a few changes that were nice. I added a mahogany sole to close up the mouth and also turned 21/64" Mahogany dowels for cross-pins. The wedge is still not correct as I didn't want to take the time for it knowing the plane would be scrapped once I redo it from the beginning.


No worries my friend….I feel your pain….this is terrific work, I went through these same trail and errors too and most likey will again…lol.

I am a sheer novice to making them, but keep in mind not everyone even takes on the challenge to trying to make these, and yours looks great and dam well worth a continued effort.

Great design, build on!


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## USCJeff (Apr 6, 2007)

USCJeff said:


> *Guess and check method taking some time*
> 
> I posted a shoulder plane I built several days ago and should have held off until giving it a solid trial run. It had issues in more than one spot. The mouth was too open for my tastes. There was also a good bit of chatter because the wedge ended too far up the blade. The wedge also was short on the top side and after tapping it barely protruded. I made a bunch of changes to try to salvage and got close. The sides ended up too skinny after all the extra sanding created by mistakes. The wedge hasn't blown out the sides yet, but it's coming without doubt. The pic below shows a few changes that were nice. I added a mahogany sole to close up the mouth and also turned 21/64" Mahogany dowels for cross-pins. The wedge is still not correct as I didn't want to take the time for it knowing the plane would be scrapped once I redo it from the beginning.


Thanks all. David, the picture doesn't really show my problem. The blade ramp and wedge hollow is the problem. This unsupported sides in the that hollow error is WAY too thin. I can actually get it to bend inwards just by pinching it moderately. The walls will fail. I can't get the wedge in place without putting stress on the weak part.


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## USCJeff (Apr 6, 2007)

*Scratch Stocks - I'm sold*

I've been collecting and bookmarking scratch stock ideas for a while now and it never quite made it to the top of the list. I decided to give it a go last night and found them about as simple to make as a hand tool can be. The picture below is pretty self explanatory as to what's what. Each stock is about 5.5" x 2.5" x 1.25". I went about as cheap as possible with some construction grade pine. I made two as I read conflicting reviews on how to secure the irons and what hardware was more favorable. I did both and found both work without fuss. I prefer the wing nuts for simplicity, but the 1" screws hold it firm as well. A few details to notice. The long arm is rounded on the bottom so that it can rock and allow you to find the angle that is smoothest. I was lazy and used a round over bit and ran the bearing right into the handle. Functionally no issue, but lazy. The kerf was done on a band saw but I suppose s fine handsaw or the like would get it done.

The irons are the make or break factor on this one. I show two of several I made in the picture. The chamfer (larger one) iron was a scrap from a card scraper. It is positioned for an aggressive cut which isn't a great idea, but lets the picture show it a bit better. The tiny beading iron was from a metal cutting jig saw blade. I find they are't quite wide enough for many of the things you'll want to shape. I like the card scraper, handsaw, reciprocating saw blade route more so for that reason. It's very possible to make a profile on the other side of the iron as well to double the options without any more irons to keep around. Easy to shape these. A angle grinder or a cut off tool will get the bulk done. File it to shape and it's ready.


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## dub560 (Jun 4, 2010)

USCJeff said:


> *Scratch Stocks - I'm sold*
> 
> I've been collecting and bookmarking scratch stock ideas for a while now and it never quite made it to the top of the list. I decided to give it a go last night and found them about as simple to make as a hand tool can be. The picture below is pretty self explanatory as to what's what. Each stock is about 5.5" x 2.5" x 1.25". I went about as cheap as possible with some construction grade pine. I made two as I read conflicting reviews on how to secure the irons and what hardware was more favorable. I did both and found both work without fuss. I prefer the wing nuts for simplicity, but the 1" screws hold it firm as well. A few details to notice. The long arm is rounded on the bottom so that it can rock and allow you to find the angle that is smoothest. I was lazy and used a round over bit and ran the bearing right into the handle. Functionally no issue, but lazy. The kerf was done on a band saw but I suppose s fine handsaw or the like would get it done.
> 
> The irons are the make or break factor on this one. I show two of several I made in the picture. The chamfer (larger one) iron was a scrap from a card scraper. It is positioned for an aggressive cut which isn't a great idea, but lets the picture show it a bit better. The tiny beading iron was from a metal cutting jig saw blade. I find they are't quite wide enough for many of the things you'll want to shape. I like the card scraper, handsaw, reciprocating saw blade route more so for that reason. It's very possible to make a profile on the other side of the iron as well to double the options without any more irons to keep around. Easy to shape these. A angle grinder or a cut off tool will get the bulk done. File it to shape and it's ready.


Looks good..demo please


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## tom427cid (Aug 21, 2011)

USCJeff said:


> *Scratch Stocks - I'm sold*
> 
> I've been collecting and bookmarking scratch stock ideas for a while now and it never quite made it to the top of the list. I decided to give it a go last night and found them about as simple to make as a hand tool can be. The picture below is pretty self explanatory as to what's what. Each stock is about 5.5" x 2.5" x 1.25". I went about as cheap as possible with some construction grade pine. I made two as I read conflicting reviews on how to secure the irons and what hardware was more favorable. I did both and found both work without fuss. I prefer the wing nuts for simplicity, but the 1" screws hold it firm as well. A few details to notice. The long arm is rounded on the bottom so that it can rock and allow you to find the angle that is smoothest. I was lazy and used a round over bit and ran the bearing right into the handle. Functionally no issue, but lazy. The kerf was done on a band saw but I suppose s fine handsaw or the like would get it done.
> 
> The irons are the make or break factor on this one. I show two of several I made in the picture. The chamfer (larger one) iron was a scrap from a card scraper. It is positioned for an aggressive cut which isn't a great idea, but lets the picture show it a bit better. The tiny beading iron was from a metal cutting jig saw blade. I find they are't quite wide enough for many of the things you'll want to shape. I like the card scraper, handsaw, reciprocating saw blade route more so for that reason. It's very possible to make a profile on the other side of the iron as well to double the options without any more irons to keep around. Easy to shape these. A angle grinder or a cut off tool will get the bulk done. File it to shape and it's ready.


Hi,
First tool I made was a scratch stock-still use it. 
I might suggest that as time goes on that you use a close grained hardwood. It will stand up to a lot of use.
As well as the contact surface takes a nice polish-makes for smoother operation.
tom


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

USCJeff said:


> *Scratch Stocks - I'm sold*
> 
> I've been collecting and bookmarking scratch stock ideas for a while now and it never quite made it to the top of the list. I decided to give it a go last night and found them about as simple to make as a hand tool can be. The picture below is pretty self explanatory as to what's what. Each stock is about 5.5" x 2.5" x 1.25". I went about as cheap as possible with some construction grade pine. I made two as I read conflicting reviews on how to secure the irons and what hardware was more favorable. I did both and found both work without fuss. I prefer the wing nuts for simplicity, but the 1" screws hold it firm as well. A few details to notice. The long arm is rounded on the bottom so that it can rock and allow you to find the angle that is smoothest. I was lazy and used a round over bit and ran the bearing right into the handle. Functionally no issue, but lazy. The kerf was done on a band saw but I suppose s fine handsaw or the like would get it done.
> 
> The irons are the make or break factor on this one. I show two of several I made in the picture. The chamfer (larger one) iron was a scrap from a card scraper. It is positioned for an aggressive cut which isn't a great idea, but lets the picture show it a bit better. The tiny beading iron was from a metal cutting jig saw blade. I find they are't quite wide enough for many of the things you'll want to shape. I like the card scraper, handsaw, reciprocating saw blade route more so for that reason. It's very possible to make a profile on the other side of the iron as well to double the options without any more irons to keep around. Easy to shape these. A angle grinder or a cut off tool will get the bulk done. File it to shape and it's ready.


thanks for the info and sharing them 
I still have to make one but I think its a tool that deserve an renaissance in woodworking
and they will if people wuold see they can benefit from both powertools and handtools

take care
Dennis


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## USCJeff (Apr 6, 2007)

USCJeff said:


> *Scratch Stocks - I'm sold*
> 
> I've been collecting and bookmarking scratch stock ideas for a while now and it never quite made it to the top of the list. I decided to give it a go last night and found them about as simple to make as a hand tool can be. The picture below is pretty self explanatory as to what's what. Each stock is about 5.5" x 2.5" x 1.25". I went about as cheap as possible with some construction grade pine. I made two as I read conflicting reviews on how to secure the irons and what hardware was more favorable. I did both and found both work without fuss. I prefer the wing nuts for simplicity, but the 1" screws hold it firm as well. A few details to notice. The long arm is rounded on the bottom so that it can rock and allow you to find the angle that is smoothest. I was lazy and used a round over bit and ran the bearing right into the handle. Functionally no issue, but lazy. The kerf was done on a band saw but I suppose s fine handsaw or the like would get it done.
> 
> The irons are the make or break factor on this one. I show two of several I made in the picture. The chamfer (larger one) iron was a scrap from a card scraper. It is positioned for an aggressive cut which isn't a great idea, but lets the picture show it a bit better. The tiny beading iron was from a metal cutting jig saw blade. I find they are't quite wide enough for many of the things you'll want to shape. I like the card scraper, handsaw, reciprocating saw blade route more so for that reason. It's very possible to make a profile on the other side of the iron as well to double the options without any more irons to keep around. Easy to shape these. A angle grinder or a cut off tool will get the bulk done. File it to shape and it's ready.


No doubt, Tom. The pine will do what pine does and not take any abuse without consequence. The inevitable dents in the wood will make a bumpy ride before too long. The better plan is to use (like you mentioned) a tight hard species. Hard Maple has been my go-to in most wooden tool making things I've done. Takes abuse and moves very little. I've had great one's with Purple Heart as well. The local store ran into a ton of Purple Heart and sold it dirt cheap. Don't care for Purple, but it's one of the densest I've used.


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## USCJeff (Apr 6, 2007)

*Thin-Ripping Saddle*

I'll preface all by saying that if there is a way to avoid making this type of cut I normally take it. It's typically the better option when ripping thin strips to have the strip on the outside of the blade vs. the fence. The reason is that it is tough to support a thin piece between a moving blade and your fence. Kickback is a real issue there. Never the less, sometimes this cut is needed and this is what I use to make it safe.

There are three goals in mind. I want to be able to push the piece forward through the cut, avoid having the piece kick back or flip end over end, and keep my fingers away from the action. The saddle does all three very well. It is simple in nature. Cut two boards to match the width and height of the fence and attach them. Develop some type of handle to go on top. Then create a replaceable thin board to push the work piece.

On mine I used dimensional lumber and hardboard. Glue and biscuits are the joinery method. The handle has two screws from the bottom as well as glue. The hardboard is held only by two 1" brads. I should note that you want to make sure if you use metal on this to make sure the blade won't come into contact with it. The brads in this case are well above the max cutting range. The hardboard can be swapped out as it gets worn or as custom fits are needed. Here are some shots.




























Note: In pic 3, I showed an example set up. I normally use the rubber nosed push stick or a pencil to control the cut off if it is in the "no hands" zone. Feather boards never hurt.


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## Billboard (Apr 10, 2008)

USCJeff said:


> *Thin-Ripping Saddle*
> 
> I'll preface all by saying that if there is a way to avoid making this type of cut I normally take it. It's typically the better option when ripping thin strips to have the strip on the outside of the blade vs. the fence. The reason is that it is tough to support a thin piece between a moving blade and your fence. Kickback is a real issue there. Never the less, sometimes this cut is needed and this is what I use to make it safe.
> 
> ...


Great looking push stick. I like it!


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## Woodbutchery (Aug 1, 2008)

USCJeff said:


> *Thin-Ripping Saddle*
> 
> I'll preface all by saying that if there is a way to avoid making this type of cut I normally take it. It's typically the better option when ripping thin strips to have the strip on the outside of the blade vs. the fence. The reason is that it is tough to support a thin piece between a moving blade and your fence. Kickback is a real issue there. Never the less, sometimes this cut is needed and this is what I use to make it safe.
> 
> ...


Great looking saddle. I like the idea of using hardboard.


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## USCJeff (Apr 6, 2007)

*Scratch Stocks put to use*

I finally got a chance to put the scratch stocks to use in a project versus simply playing with them after they were built. My Serving Board project post yesterday was the first use on a finished project.










The pinstripes that form a square about an inch from the edge were all made from a scratch stop with a "V" shaped profile made from some old piece of metal (jointer/planer blade, jigsaw, hacksaw can't remember but have used them all). The fence kept it all uniform. I broke my tiny spiral router bit that came with an inlay kit so my normal tool of choice wasn't an option without going shopping. In the end, this was faster. I will say that there is a larger chance of error with the scratch stock at least for me. A fence on my Bosch Colt makes it tough to cut off the line. The scratch stock can wonder a bit (especially with the grain) if not careful. To combat this, I simply scored the line with a marking knife and all was well. I'm not completely sold on them, but this won't be the last I use them. Very fast. Quiet too. I work a lot after the kids are in bed, so that's a factor for me.


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## USCJeff (Apr 6, 2007)

*Tablesaw Alignment Tool*

I posted a detailed makeup of this project in the project section: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/71163

In short, the idea was to make a tool that can check the alignment of the miter slot to a fence as well as the blade to miter slot. I noticed some rip cuts binding recently and suspected alignment problems since I moved the saw around a bunch while reorganizing my shop. I don't have a dial indicator that works right, so this was the fix. A scrap of MDF, a threaded insert with matching bolt, and calipers are all that was needed.

Note, if you don't have calipers or they are too expensive to use in this manner, they aren't really required. They work great, but any type of material that will stay put when secured and move will work. I've seen setups using a 12 inch ruler, scrap metal rods, and even wood. The concept is to be able to measure both ends and there are a lot of ways to do that.

For the record: The rear of my fence was slanted inwards creating the bind mid cut.


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