# upgraded the dust collection on Bosch table saw



## juicegoose (Jan 6, 2010)

I've loved my little Bosch 4100 table saw but have always found the dust collection lacking. A while back i found an article on fine woodworking regarding closing up these little jobsite saws to catch the dust. I set out over the weekend to upgrade the dust collection and this is what I came up with.

1. I added a zero clearance insert and sprayed some slow expanding foam under the table where there were cracks between the table and the base. I did this on the front and back edge but let the edge by the motor stay free so when the dust collector was on it would try to pull air mainly from the motor side of the housing. I did this for two reasons 
1. To keep the motor cool with fresh air flow
2. The air being sucked into the base would create turbulance and get the dust up in the air for removal.









Next i cut out some covers for the front and back face of the base assembly and stuck them on the saw with velcro so when i wanted to cut at a 45 degree angle i could simply take them off. This velcro didn't stick well and I'll be using some magnets next.


















I then added a piece of 1/4" ply between the gravity rise stand and the base of the saw to close off the bottom. At the same time i noticed that the most effective place a dust collection fitting would attach to the base was in a area that had me turning the saw around on the base. I mounted the dust collection fitting to the 1/4" ply with 1/4" bolts(overkill but it is what i had on hand). Don't forget to cut out the hole under the fitting either.










Lastly i attached a section of 2.5 flex hose to a 4" x 2.5" wye fitting and attached a 4" main trunk to the under cabinet side of the the base. 









Hooked all up to the dust collector this badboy stays clean as a whistle. It's a vast vast VAST improvement and I can still fold the saw down too!!









Hope the pictures help to explain my ramblings.


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Beautiful job !!

I've got the 4100, and have achieved a BIG improvement with nothing more than blue painter's tape.

But … you may just have inspired me 

Thanks for sharing !


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## BTKS (Nov 30, 2008)

I have this little bad boy too. I haven't really considered the dust collection either way. Just had to chime in about loving the saw. I use it combination with my cabinet saw to run a dado blade on if I have a lot of rabbets to do. I may use your improvements if I get into a job in a house or area I want to keep clean. Thanks for the ideas.


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## juicegoose (Jan 6, 2010)

You know one thing 've noticed on at least my saw is that when i attempt to change to my dado stack it's very hard to get the stack on the arbor. Seems like either the dado stack is to small or the arbor is a little large. I know this isn't true but still a pain to change as the blades get stuck.


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## willd (Mar 9, 2011)

It's been some time since you have posted this and I am wondering if you have made any changes. I have just finished working with some Paduk and got to the point where something has to be done. Red sawdust all over. Pretty but also scary. Thanks for this post.


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## juicegoose (Jan 6, 2010)

Willd
Sure haven't made any change to the general arangement of things. It works amazingly well. I would say around 90 to 95% collection. I did go back and remake my little covers for the front and back. The new covers I made had magnets in them. The front cover will stick straight to the case but the back I had to epoxy a magnet on the inside of the plastic saw case and one in the cover. Works great other then the fact that on the back case one of my magnets is turned around backwards. Ahhhhhh I'm dumb!!!

I Highly recommend you do the upgrade.

Also make sure when you put the lower collection fitting in that you account for the swing of the saw on it's mobile stand. I simply folded everything down and then stuck the fitting on the wood traced around it and cut it out with a saw.

Also I can't remember if I kept it this way but I know at one point in the design I had turned the saw around on it's mobile base. Maybe to try and get the fitting a little more centered or something. I'll look this evening bu just remember to put the big fitting on the side of the saw opposite the motor so it will suck the dust bfore it even hits the blade shroud.


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## willd (Mar 9, 2011)

I finely got around to make the mortification on my Bosch TS. I can't believe the difference. This has cut my cleanup time in more then half giving me more time to do what I like, woodworking. One would think that Bosch would sell this mortification as an accessory. If you own this saw I don't know how you could live without making these changes. Thanks juicegoose for all the info and instructions. Will


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## Flyin636 (Jul 29, 2011)

Nice job!

Just wanted to add,anyone looking for a cheap supply of "thin'ish" rubber for use in this area(dust control around equip openings)....and it works very well on equip like shapers around cutter head….is;steal your wife's Yoga mat,and cut it up into required pcs.Well,reckon you "could" go buy one…..but whats the fun in that?BW


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## Retrowood (Oct 11, 2011)

*I'm new to the forum and actually found this site by searching for improvements on Bosch 4100 table saws. Excellent post, just wondered if there are any updates on your modifications? I'm currently using a older Jet Contractor saw which is getting the best of me over dust collection or lack of it. Seems like everything thing I've done to improve things has actually made things worse so far. Since my shop is small and I need something with reduced dust output, I'm thinking of selling the Jet and going to the Bosch unit and making the same mods you've done to help with the dust collection.

Thanks, Retrowood*


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## juicegoose (Jan 6, 2010)

Welcome to the site retrowood. To answer your question no I haven't done any further upgrades. The collection works great and I couldn't be happier. If your looking for a great saw the 4100 is tops. Do a search and you won't find a better reviewed portable saw. That said it is kind of pricey. If money isn't an issue or you would like something portable yet robust and most importantly accurate then go get you a 4100. Let me know if you've got any questions about the saw.


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## Retrowood (Oct 11, 2011)

*Thanks for the reply and welcome. I'm in the middle of two medium sized projects(Doesn't everyone do it that way?) although feel the Bosch will be sitting in my shop in a very short time. Every machine I have is mobile and the Bosch should fit in well. Anyone in the market for a Jet Contractor Saw??*


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

I've had the same saw and did the same under saw cover adjustment which helped a lot.

here is a thought though (and I did the same thing to my current saw and am reverting back to original):

What you want to do is keep the airflow going to pick up the fine dust (mostly) as well as larger chips. If you cover all the openings of air (wheel slot) you are creating a vacuum which is great for picking something up from the floor, but not really that great for keeping air flow running as it stops it. What this might lead to is if you are cutting a dado (non through cut) or if your cut is blocking the saw inserts leading to no incoming air route all the dust will just fall in the saw cabinet and start accumulating there (fine dust and all).

bottom line - I would keep the wheel slot open for fresh air.

just my thoughts and experience YMMV.


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## juicegoose (Jan 6, 2010)

Purp, although I agree 100% that airflow should be allowed like you stated, the theory behind leaving such a large opening(the wheel area) is incorrect. At least on the Bosch saw there are air slots at the top of case. More specifically there is some slots on the motor side of the housing. When u restrict the large holes it encourages airflow through these slots. Not only does it help cool the saw but the air turbulence circulates towards the dust collection opening. There was a great article on the fine woodworking website by an engineer that did alot of tests on airflow to get the best circulation/turbulence to get and keep dust moving. Do a search on the website. Personally my saw works much better at collection with all the major holes covered and letting the air flow through the case slots. Like everything else, your results may vary.


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## Retrowood (Oct 11, 2011)

*While I'm no engineer, I tried a couple ideas I've read about w/ my Contractor saw. I completely covered the opening at rear around motor w/ perhaps less than a 1% air opening now. I then installed a thin kerf blade and zero-clearance throat plate. Dust was worse, actually blowing right up at my face when operating saw. I then modified the throat plate using a idea from FWW, widening the back 2" of the slot to 1/4" and notching where the blade teeth come up and out at 1" blade setting. Notches are 3/16" of an inch. I also blocked front control slot w/ magnetic cover. Much worse, not in my face although the pile of dust from ripping one 5' long Sitka Spruce was 2" high on the front of the table. Hmmmm, what is going on here? I'm going to change out the zero-clearance to my original open model next to see if things improve. *


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

Thanks for the relpy JuiceGoose - Its been a while since I had the bosch and forgot about the motor cooling slots in the saw housing - that WILL work well as long as there is enough air allowance to get into the cabinet so in your case covering the wheel might be a good idea. for other saws - probably not so much.

Enjoy making sucked dust!


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

thank´s for sharing this 
not that I have or have planes of buying a Ts at the moment 
but I do have this little bosch on very short list of electronkiller device´s I want if 
I get the chance of building my own house with a big shop …. 

take care
Dennis


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## Retrowood (Oct 11, 2011)

*As a update to my last comment on the Jet Contractor saw dust control dynamics, I discovered today the combination of a open factory Jet throat plate combined with a 6" Thin Kerf Mitsu********************a blade gives me the least of dust, at least coming out of the top of saw w/ 6HP Craftsman/Dust Deputy w/ Hepa filte pulling on the bottom end. I still want the Bosch as I feel I can run the saw with it's dust collection system w/ my vac set-up*


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## willd (Mar 9, 2011)

Two things. Jet contractor saw Craigslist. Bosch 4100 table saw buy it.


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## juicegoose (Jan 6, 2010)

Retro one thing about the Bosch saw setup make it superior to others in dust collection. The Bosch saw has a plastic guard/shoot below and around the blade. The natural movement of air from the blade pushes dust down and out the back so when combined with a strong vac dust collection is probably 80%. Now with the other mod I'd go as far as to saw 90-95% collection. Next time I'm in the shop I'll try to take a video quick.


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## Retrowood (Oct 11, 2011)

*Will & Juice,
I'm all for the Bosch at this point. Just remarking on the Jet due to a project I'm in the middle of currently and have been keeping track of things while I'm cutting and talking myself into the Bosch.

Not sure if the Bosch DG is the way to go or Analog….The Luddite in me is shouting Analog! I won't order a saw for 2-3 weeks due to some family events coming up next week although I see too many pluses to not make it happen.

I would love to see a video…...!

Thanks*


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## BobM001 (Jan 8, 2012)

I like your concept! I have one of these on it's way to me. I'm going to use it in conjuction with the Dust Deputy Delux kit. I may forego the use of the spray foam in favor of some thin rubber glued to the 1/4" plywood. There will be a time when routine maintenance to the blade lift mechanism may need to be done. That foam "gluing" the bottom cover in place doesn't appeal to me. The fact that your fix still allows the stand to fold up is AWESOME. Nice job!!!!

Bob


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## Retrowood (Oct 11, 2011)

I have the Deluxe DD and it works well although a larger bucket will come in handy with the table saw or planer. I believe US plastics in Lima Ohio makes a 6 and 7 gallon bucket which will work with the DD lid. This will add much needed space as the regular 5 gallon bucket can not be filled to the top, it will start transferring dust to your vacuum once it gets about 5" from the top.

Good luck w/ your new saw,
Retrowood


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## BobM001 (Jan 8, 2012)

Hey "Goose",

Where did you get the collector plate for the plywood bottom? What size is it(length/width)? I got my zero clearance inserts from Peachtree today. They are a "glove fit"! Worth every penny!

Bob


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## juicegoose (Jan 6, 2010)

Bob I got the fitting from woodcraft. 
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2020106/19117/Flanged-Dust-Port-1312-x-8.aspx

A side note on it's placement. I did turn the saw around in frm it's base so the fitting could attach and not be in the way of folding and I also placed the fitting so that the dust falling from the blade is immediately sucked into the dust fitting. 
The sealing of the underside was strategic as well. I left the slotted opening on the side closest to the motor open and sealed most of the rest because of a couple reasons.
1. The suction created by the limited availability of air to the collector pulls air from around the motor. This not only cools the air but creates turbulant air that keeps the dust moving in the saw case.
2. The suction created really helps with tabletop dust collection even with a zero clearnace insert. Turn on the dust collector and buddy saw dust will get sucked down from about 1-2" away from the blade.


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## BobM001 (Jan 8, 2012)

Thanks! That's what I needed. I assume you used a 2 1/2 reducer for the run of that tee/wye to fit the larger shop vac hose. My saw is going to get your mod before any wood gets put through it. I have some 
2" wide PSA foam insulation tape that I'm going to use seal the plywood to the saw bottom. While to bottom is open I'm going to attach a type K thermocouple to the motor body and test it for temp rise when doing a lot of ripping. Several horse stalls to rebuild with 1" rough hemlock. Got a BN 24 tooth Freud Diablo at the ready for that job. I also bought a second fence that will have a 3/4" maple face board attached to the tee slot. On top of that is the mounting track for the yellow Board Buddies. I have them on my stationary saw and LOVE 'EM. The complete fence was a C-note from Bosch Parts. Fits with room to spare in the bottom of my tool box.

Bob


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## juicegoose (Jan 6, 2010)

Bob I used no reducer other then a tee/wye fitting that had a 2.5" outlet and the others were 4". At the time I hacked up a shopvac hose to use. I should of, and recommend, buying a short section of 2.5" dust collection hose instead. 
Also regarding the bottom seal, good idea. At the time I had a can of the seal stuff and used it. It works pretty good. but i like the thick foam insulation better.


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## BobM001 (Jan 8, 2012)

Got all my parts from Woodcraft. They had a reducer that fit over the 4" side of the tee/wye on the outlet end. I then had to use a 2" Fernco rubber coupling with a 2 1/4" Shop Vac hose coupling to get a "plug in" connection for hose to the Dust Deputy. The 2.5" rigid flex hose from Woodcraft fits over the dust outlet on the saw and will be clamped in place there and at the branch of the tee/wye. With a 2 ft square of 1/4" ply everything is "at the ready" for the saw arrival. Gettin' antsy!

Bob


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## BobM001 (Jan 8, 2012)

My NEW 4100-09 arrived this Friday. Putting the "Zero Gravity" stand together was a "ratchet head" experience looking back and forth at the instructions and bolting all the parts together. Before anything got mounted to it JUICEGOOSE'S dust collection mod got intalled. Used in conjunction with a Dust Deputy II I'm pleased to say that the amount of sawdust on the floor after ripping an 8 ft 2X8 into 1/2" strips was negligible. About a cup's worth on the floor. I'm looking into mounting some thin rubber strips to block off the "arcs" in the bevel adjustment holes. This saw was DEAD NUTS PERFECT in every way that you check a table saw right out of the box. It ripped 2x lumber like butter with a BN 24 tooth Freud Diablo. I added the left side table extension bar to it right out of the gate. Then to "sweeten" the deal an Incra 1000HD and a Miter Express. This unit is not my only table saw. But with it I will be able to high quality machining on a mobile basis. That Zero Gravity stand is just BLOODY MARVELOUS. Even the plastic bag that it was packed in fits the assembled saw like a glove as a dust cover when it's in its "stowed" position. The best part is that it fits in the back of my PU that has a soft tonneau with no issues. Happy Lumberjock I am. :>)

Bob


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## juicegoose (Jan 6, 2010)

Bob
You'll really enjoy the saw. I can tell you that if you build some covers like I did for the front and back of the saw(to cover the "arcs") it will drop that cup of dust to zip. Your trying to forc the dust collection to suck air from where you want it to suck the air from, The top and side by the motor. Close everything else off. Good luck.


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## Retrowood (Oct 11, 2011)

The only real downfall I see with this saw with modifications for improved dust collection is the need to have a complete D/C system w/ 4" hose verses the std. 2.25"-2.5" Vac hook up. What type of CFM/HP D/C systems are being used for D/C with the 4100 saws?

Retrowood


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## BobM001 (Jan 8, 2012)

I bought a 4×2 1/2 reducer for the tee outlet. Then with Fernco rubber coupling attached a 2 1/4" coupling for the shop vac hose. The Dust Deputy comes with a 4 ft heavy flex hose that fits the coupling and the separator inlet. I'm using a 20 gallon 4 hp Shop Vac with a Gore Clean Stream filter. I just solved my issue with blanking off those areas where the tilt has the openings. A roll of 3" gaffers tape is on it's way to me. That stuff is strong and doesn't leave any tape residue behind if you have to remove it.
Here's the DUST DEPUTY action

Bob


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## Fishfreak911 (Jul 14, 2010)

Awesome fix. I have this saw too. I am relatively happy with the dust collection and LOVE the saw overall. But your fixes have inspired me to improve mine. I want to be at 90%+!!!! Thanks!


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## juicegoose (Jan 6, 2010)

I use a delta 50-760 1.5 hp collector. Works pretty good


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## borako (Mar 5, 2012)

I left woodworking for about a year, then got some extra money, purchased 4100, and when I returned to woodworking cutting some plywoods I realized one of the reasons I stopped woodworking… sawdusts. Then I came across this article while googling. Sounds amazing, and I've got all the parts and almost ready to put them together and came up with a couple of questions:

1. How did you put the 1/4 plywood at the bottom? More slow-expanding foams, or did you drill the plastic base and attached screws? I just can't figure it out looking at the pictures and descriptions. Did you use the bolts that attach the saw to the gravity rise, and fill the gap with foam? 
2. For the opening, you didn't block the left side, when facing the saw with the switch in front of you, but all other sides (right, front, back) are blocked by foam - is this correct understanding?

Thanks for the great article!


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## BobM001 (Jan 8, 2012)

I used 2" wide peel and stick foam insulation that to seal the plywood to the saw base. I had to double thick it in some spots to make a seal due to the profile of the base. Then I attached the plywood to the base with #8×1" flathead screws countersunk flush. To seal the "arcs" where the bevel travels I bought online 3" wide gaffers tape. I had to double it up in some places but the stuff is super strong and doesn't leave any adhesive residue behind if you have to pull it off.

Start out with a 2ft square of 1/4''. Then trace out the footprint of the base. You can stay away from the stand mounting holes. They don't have much bearing on sealing the bottom with respect to their location. You will have to jig saw out the footprint after you trace it out. There is about 1/2" of sealing area. all the way around. I chose not to use spray foam just in case I had to remove the bottom for maintenance or repair.

Once you get that bottom attached put the saw on the stand and locate the collector flange so that the hose clears the crossbar for the latch. Then you can trace that out and cut the opening for the bottom flange. 4 screws are enough to hold/seal that. The fact that the hoses don't get in the way with the stand functioning is real sweet.


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## juicegoose (Jan 6, 2010)

Glad to see the upgrades will be helping you guys.

To answer the questions.
I simply cut a piece of 1/4" plywood on the bottom large enough to cover the base, set the saw on top of it, drilled the four existing corner holes and used the existing bolts at each corner to hold it all in place. I did use the expandable foam but if you wanted something less permanent you could use some sort of thick door seal material or something even tape might hold for a bit. The trick is you want the bottom sealed up pretty good so all the air is sucked from the places you want it to be drawn from.

Don't forget to turn the saw around on the gravity rise stand when you do the modification. If you don't turn it around then the hole you will need to make for the bottom chute will hit the stand when you collapse it.

Lastly I used foam to seal the top and bottom of the saw. I also covered the front and back with custom plywood covers that are attached with magnets. They aren't exactly air tight but still help.

You want the saw to be drawing air from the blade area(make yourself a zero clearance insert)
and from the slits in the case that are closest to the motor. This will naturally give teh air turbulance so anything that drops in your now sealed case will get tumbled around and drawn to the large 4" hole you placed in the bottom. drawing the air across the motor also helps with motor cooling which is essential.

Mine works well enough that the only dust I get is what is kicked off from the top of the blade. Anytime I look inside the saw there isn't any noticable dust.


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## iART (Sep 18, 2013)

This thread appears old but I needed to say thank you. I have been fighting dust in my tiny shop for years and this Bosch table saw dust collection hack worked perfectly for me.

I knew going in that this would make my saw look ugly as sin but that it would be worth it if my dust cleanup time was reduced.

I took this project a little further by removing some additional pieces from the Bosch table saw. Namely, the plastic side cover and the aluminum exhaust port. Each stroke of the hacksaw caused me some serious mental anguish… "what the hell are you doing??", "you will never be able to resell this saw!", "he never mentioned removing the 2-1/2" port!" etc, etc.

I will attach some pics to show what I am talking about.























































I also
- swapped out the 14" Table saw flange for the 6-1/4" 
- used some veneer scraps attached by magnets (two pieces for when changing the blade angle)
- have not yet made the zero clearance insert, but that has not made a difference in suction.

Again, thank you!


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## juicegoose (Jan 6, 2010)

Good job. I preferred the collection with the saw shroud attached but with your design it kind of made it a none issue. Zero clearance will help. Enjoy. Every once in a while i'll throw the airgun or blower at the inside corners to get whats been collected, with the cust collector on of course.


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## Retrowood (Oct 11, 2011)

*I wonder if a few contoured blocks of foam glued into place would suffice in eliminating those corner dust catchers…....Retrowood*

"Good job. I preferred the collection with the saw shroud attached but with your design it kind of made it a none issue. Zero clearance will help. Enjoy. Every once in a while i'll throw the airgun or blower at the inside corners to get whats been collected, with the cust collector on of course."_


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## matermark (Sep 16, 2014)

Has anybody found any ergonomic problems turning the saw around 180 degrees on the stand, like running into the base with your feet when walking past or moving with larger panels past the saw? Does it make any difference with balance with the gravity rise?


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## leftcoaster (Jan 1, 2016)

This is a great set of ideas, thanks for posting them.

I was wondering: do you think that the saw noise could be muffled at all by adding some sound deadening density inside the spaces under the saw?

Roxul safe 'n sound is cheap, fire-resistant, and sound absorbing.

Curious if anyone has tried this or sees reasons why it would not work.


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## norybd (Jul 2, 2013)

does anyone have input on whether it's better to leave the side protection plate next to the blade under the table saw surface on or off? And, whether it's best to remove or block the 2" port that come stock on the saw to leave all the work to the 4" port added to the base? if I block the 2" stock port and remove the side prtection plate, will that be the best option?
thanks


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## juicegoose (Jan 6, 2010)

Hey everyone glad to see that people are still enjoying the bosch modifications. To answer a couple questions i saw come up. 
Noise- not sure if sound deadoning would help. Try it and let us know. Just make sure you dont block airflow to the motor for cooling.

Ergonomics- when i turned my saw around it was a little ackward at first but you quickly get used to it.

2.5" dust port.
Personally i left mine installed with the side shield. It is the first line of defense on dust. The action of the blades rotation creates suction as well as the vacuum to help pull the dust away. Ifound in my trsting that taking the side shroud off created far to much turbulance and i started getting less dust collection and more recycling of dust back up and at me from the blade. Your results will vary of course.

Great jobs guys.


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## norybd (Jul 2, 2013)

As recommended, I left the cover plate in place. I used rubber innertube material to block front and back openings. Front worked great with self adhesive magnets stickin the rubber to the case. I did not expect the thing saw cover plate to be steel - it is. Rear- there is such a thing as two sided duct tape. Awesome stuff. Everthing is easily removed and reapplied after miter cuts now. Thanks juicegoose.


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## Tomx63 (Nov 6, 2016)

So let me throw my hat in this ring. I've owned the Bosch 4100 since 2011 and is hands down the favorite of all my tools. I have long envisioned a time I might run this saw indoors. I stumbled upon this thread trying to get ideas for dust collection for the table saw. First, props to juicegoose, iART and many others for the wealth of great information, photos and ideas that were shared. It helped me make several considerations for this long overdue project.
First, closing up the bottom to set up its new dust port.









I separated the bottom halves to to use the top of the lower half as a template.









I traced the top of the lower half because it gave me clean sharp line. The bottom of the lower half is rounded and would have been difficult to get a tight fit. Once outlined I cut the 1/2" plywood with a jigsaw and used some pocket screws to secure it in place and some clear silicone to close up any gaps.









Hindsight is 20/20. Having placed the plywood where I did, I realized a 35-45 degree cut caused the end of the motor housing to hit the plywood bottom cover I installed. Admittedly I didn't see that one coming. So, I built somewhat of a trough using 3/4" plywood to extend the bottom of the saw to allow for the motor swing and it would ultimately hold the new dust port. Crisis averted!









...and with the dust port and its assembly attached.









Final product after using some duct tape to seal things up and of course, turning the saw around on its base (again, thanks juicegoose).
I cranked up the dust collector and could feel the immense air drawn taking place in the throat plate, motor side vents, front and back miter openings. I plugged the saw's rear dust port and simply put heavy plastic over the large front and back miter openings. The suction held the plastic in place without pulling them through. Performed a few test cuts. Simply amazing how much saw dust disappeared. Depending on the type of cut performed more saw dust was drawn into the saw and removed.









I'll follow up with how I handled the dust collection from the rear of the saw. Please let me know if you have any questions. I'm sure I skipped providing enough info on a few things here and there. Thanks again all!


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## Tomx63 (Nov 6, 2016)

I'm following up from my previous post with the modification I performed for the rear dust port on the Bosch 4001 table saw. I did contemplate just closing it up altogether, but considering how powerful the airflow is coming out of that rear dust port, I was concerned it might cause too much turbulence inside the saw, maybe making the bottom dust port less effective. I liked some of the ideas shared here, but I wanted a way to still freely use the miter capabilities without having to remove temporary parts. My idea was to try and cover that port and its opening with another dust hood.
I scoured the internet for dust hoods and found a 4" mini dust hood on the Rockler site. This hood has a 4" port and measures 13 1/2" by 7 1/4". Size wise, just perfect for covering the entire dust port opening on the back of the saw. Two things I needed to do to adapt the dust port to the saw.
1. I needed to create as flat of an area as possible for the dust hood. This was not too difficult. Turns out 1/8" hardboard bridged the gap on the top. I secured it in place with duct tape.
2. Deal with the contour on the bottom of the base.









I used a heat gun and a piece of 2" pvc to form the bottom of the dust hood to the contoured section of the base pictured above. This was all art form and came out near perfect. Let me say, I'm confident I could not do this twice!









I finished up adding the foam insulation tape to the back of the saw base. The dust hood will be pulled tight up against this. I'm using 4 screws to hold the dust hood in place. I left the tape on the insulation and punched small holes through the tape for the sake of the picture. That was of course removed before putting the dust hood in place.









These are two pictures of the completed project. The original dust port can tilt freely inside this new dust port. I'm still able to use the cord wrap. Of additional importance, this new dust port only added about 1.5" to the overall width of the saw. So there's no problem being able to get it through doorways.


















What I don't have pictured, but is easy to understand, I attached the main dust collection hose to a wye. Then coming off of that it goes to the back and bottom of the saw.
I should also mention, I've taken the measures of closing up as much of the saw base as possible where it meets the table top. I very meticulously crafted pieces of sturdy cardboard, covered them with duct tape and secured them with duct tape. The places I did not seal are:
- the vents on the motor side of the base.
- part of the opening on the opposite side (where the table top handle is)
- and this one might come as a surprise…. I did not cover the large front miter opening.

I performed several test cuts with both dust ports now in use. A really large majority of saw dust was being extracted for most of the cuts I made. Before any of these modifications, this saw was notorious for spewing sawdust out of the front miter opening. In my test cuts, I had no sawdust accumulating on the front of the saw (where I would normally see a lot). The air being drawn in through that opening now prevents dust from escaping through it.
When I was done test cutting I checked the inside of the saw as best I could. The inside has little voids and pockets where sawdust can easily get into, and I could see where some accumulation occurred. However for the most part the inside of the base was surprisingly free of dust. Nothing on the floor of the base. This was way beyond my expectations.


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## ramatsu (Dec 2, 2017)

Tomx63, I love the internal panel on the bottom, much cleaner than sealing the bottom up with foam, and nice to just maintain the stock mounting hardware. I wish we could do a side-by-side rest between your cool rear port mini-hood solution and the 'stash!

I have a hard time tracking the gaps under the table to cut cardboard or tape up. I guess that's just a trial and error process.

How has this continued to work for you in the year since you posted it? Any more tweaks you'd do based on your experience with it? (I'm just about to seal mine up…)


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## Tomx63 (Nov 6, 2016)

Hey Allen,

Thanks and I'm glad you asked! I found the sections of cardboard that I so meticulously cut, taped and taped in place did not hold over time(several months). The tape was slowly separating. I've since removed those cardboard pieces and have replaced them with sections of 1" pipe insulation (i think it was 1"). I simply squeezed it to compress it and then stuffed it in place sections at a time. As far as the dust collection is concerned it's not working any better than it previously was, but it seems to be a more permanent solution. Overall the dust collection at the Bosch is still working extremely well. Since my last post I've upgraded my dust collection system to include a pre-collector. This neither improved or impaired the dust collection at the saw, so I must have sealed things up well at the pre-collector. Good luck on sealing up the base! I'll be curious to know your experience and results.


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## ramatsu (Dec 2, 2017)

Ah, good to know. I'm doing a cyclone too (building a version of the HF 2HP/Super DustDeputy) and want to make the most of it. I'm also working on a crosscut sled design that includes a dust collection port integrated to a box behind the fence at the blade position (which is there for safety anyway) - I've read that approach can all but eliminate any dust coming forward from the blade, but I'm not sure those folks had the main downdraft collection going, so maybe it won't be necessary. I'm thinking anything that doesn't get drawn down into the saw by the main collector may scoot forward in the zero clearance slot in the sled, drawn into the box vacuum. Since I'm building that box as a blade safety feature anyway, it's really just a matter of drilling one hole to fit my shop vac hose. If that has any effect I'll post something here. If I ever finish it 

There are so many of these 4100s out there, it's a wonder no one has created a simple bolt-on kit of formed pieces as an aftermarket. Maybe that's a kickstarter project for me to look at with my industrial design buddy….

I forgot to ask before, you say you molded your rear cover using a heat gun and some 2" pvc… What was the pvc for? Just as a tool to press the softened bezel down into the shape of the base?


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## ramatsu (Dec 2, 2017)

Ok Tom, I'll bite: how did you get the bottom panel off the saw base? I've pulled the 8 nickel screws but it feels connected at the corners, likely under the rubber feet. We're you able to get those feet off without destroying them? I tried to slide a knife under them but thought I'd check in before I start whacking around blindly.

Thanks!
Edit: after a visit to the parts diagram, I proceeded with some confidence to remove those feet and get at the screws underneath. Cheers!


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## Tomx63 (Nov 6, 2016)

Allen,

Correct, the rubber feet need to be pulled off. To the best of my recollection they're just plugged in place. There's another screw under each foot. The bottom of the base, at least mine, was not glued or clipped together. Once all the screws were removed it separated without much persuasion.


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## Tomx63 (Nov 6, 2016)

Allen,

Just read this question you asked…

I forgot to ask before, you say you molded your rear cover using a heat gun and some 2" pvc… What was the pvc for? Just as a tool to press the softened bezel down into the shape of the base?

That was it exactly. I used the piece of pvc as a tool to help shape the bottom of the dust hood.


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## krosser (Feb 15, 2020)

this is amazing! I am new to the site and new to owning and using a table saw. thank you for the great idea


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## krosser (Feb 15, 2020)

I am not experienced with any wood working and could use some explanation about the first line instructions on making this where you discuss " I added a zero clearance insert" I am confused as to what this means and what I need to do. Thank you


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## ramatsu (Dec 2, 2017)

> I am not experienced with any wood working and could use some explanation about the first line instructions on making this where you discuss " I added a zero clearance insert" I am confused as to what this means and what I need to do. Thank you
> 
> - krosser


Here's an article that will walk you through them: https://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/zero-clearance-inserts/

If you're just starting your woodworking journey, one of the best ways you can learn is to just take every term you don't understand like this one, or topic you're not clear on, and Google it. You may not get back to the article you're reading for a while, but you'll have picked up a lot and be better equipped to continue.

BTW, that article extolls the benefits of making your own inserts, and maybe I'll get there some day, but there are excellent ones available for purchase for most saws. When you're starting out, there are a bunch of reasons it will probably make sense for you to just buy as needed. By the time you need more than two, maybe it will make sense to diy.


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## Clawhammer (12 mo ago)

Juicegoose, Thanks for this. I am going to mount my 4100 Bosch in a permanent table that I downloaded plans for. I am modifying the original plans to incorporate the Bosch, but wondered how I would do the dust collection. One inherent problem with this saw, ( and I think it's a fabulous saw) is that it dumps quantities of wood dust below the saw in biblical proportions. The back collector isn't enough. I've searched for all kinds of solutions and this one will be the best, as the bench I am building has a dust extractor and dusty deputy combination built in. It will require dust extraction from the bottom and the back. There is still a lot of stuff that collects around the front and back. I though of magnetic sheets cut to accommodate these two areas. On the bench design, I am working on a linear rail concept to be able to move the saw forward for service and additional cleaning. The flex dust hose will have to be long enough to facilitate this. I really like the idea of separating the two halves of the saw and cut the bottom to the shape of the bottom half of the saw and sealing. Have you seen other people that have mounted the saw in a bench and used this system?


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## krocke48 (10 mo ago)

I know this is an old thread - but I just modified my Bosch 4100 exactly the way you described - works like a dream! thanks for sharing - very helpful!


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