# Jig to hold shop vac near table saw blade



## MarkShultz (Nov 9, 2011)

When cutting a thin shaving on the table saw, i create a lot of dust ( my regular collection system is ok, but not enough for these types of cuts. Any ideas how to hold a hose close to the saw blade?


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## JoeK1 (Apr 7, 2017)

Use a Harbor Freight Multi-Position Magnetic Base, SKU 63663 and adapt a hose and nozzle it.

Joe


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## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

The most efficient way that I have seen it done is using a guard that collects from above the cut, and also a hose on the saw at the dust port.

That said, you would need a powerful enough dust collector to get the job done.

Shark Guard is what I use to do this.


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

I visit yard sales. I picked up four or five tripods used for displays in seminars and such. They were cheap, and can be cheap new and on line. Like the one below, they have telescoping legs.

I mounted a piece of scrap plywood to one and cut a half circle in it big enough to hold my 4" flex hoses. When I do a lot of cutting that the over-arm and table collection will not grab, I set this up and it catches a LOT of the dust that, otherwise, would land on the floor or be thrown in the air.

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SIDE NOTE: I used to use these to hold lights for drywall and other work requiring a lot of light. Now, I cut some of their telescoping legs to different lengths to capture "between" measurements for things like stairs and cabinet interiors.


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## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

> The most efficient way that I have seen it done is using a guard that collects from above the cut, and also a hose on the saw at the dust port.
> 
> That said, you would need a powerful enough dust collector to get the job done.
> 
> ...


+1 this is the way to go just mounting a hose near the blade probably wont do much.


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## hairy (Sep 23, 2008)

I have an Ark Shark, and the least I can set the fence to is 1 and 3/8". Thinner than that and there's no room for a push stick to pass through. That's with an Incra fence, others could be different.










For thinner than that I remove the guard and drop the hose down, the riving knife can remain in place.

Here's how I rigged up DC hose from the ceiling to the guard.

https://www.lumberjocks.com/topics/278993


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

My Excalibur is probably equal to or near the over-head dust collection systems and does a great job, but sometimes even it, the table collection and a three horse collector aren't enough to and I'll end up with a cup or two of dust on the back of the table and floor. Such situations is when I use the third hose.

The little stand also does duty over at the bandsaw, which are known for being mediocre with regard to their dust collection, or the drum disk sander.

Here's the photo/site I mentioned but neglected to post earlier,

https://www.amazon.com/Folding-Artist-Telescopic-Painting-Display/dp/B01HV36S4A/ref=asc_df_B01HV36S4A/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309850130042&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18423343944838950496&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033656&hvtargid=pla-568937439246&psc=1


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## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

> I have an Ark Shark, and the least I can set the fence to is 1 and 3/8". Thinner than that and there s no room for a push stick to pass through. That s with an Incra fence, others could be different.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


hairy you are correct on close cuts being tough with a guard. If you like the guard consider this jig to make the cut outside without having to keep moving your fence. takes about 5 minutes to make, usually a person will have the scrap for it laying around.

On the fence side, just scoot the work over. Long really boring video, but jumping around you can see the essence of the idea quickly.






Or completely go on the outside of the blade. Now this guy is nutty enough to attract squirrels, but this iteration of this sled jig for cutting thin strips on the offcut side of the TS has that shelf, this keeps the board being cut down on the TS top. If you look at a lot of the jigs similar to this you will see that a problem can occur with the board wanting to rise up. Though those are also people not using any guard. With a guard on, it probably would never happen. BUT I like being as safe as I can, so the ledge is a good idea.






He uses a push stick, and the jig. Setting a fingerboard just in front of the blade is plenty to keep the piece in toward the blade, and would allow you to lose the push stick. One either in the left miter slot, or a mag switched one will work. The only thing here, is you would need a jig for every thickness of stock you may use. Upside is it's still a scrap build, and only takes a few minutes.

Either way will let you keep your guard on, and safely cut thins, without constantly tapping your fence, trying to get that exact width 75 times. Of course that is only going to be close. Using these the fence never moves so the thicknesses can be same.


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## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

yeah that old guy is scary too watch.whats with the tie? i hate to see what would happen if it got caught on some piece of machinery.i wonder if he wears a tie when he's using a lathe-lol.


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## MarkShultz (Nov 9, 2011)

I have the shark guard. Its great, but as noted above i doesnt work with the fence tight. Gonna go with the magnetic base.


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## Monty151 (Nov 1, 2018)

Let me know how your rig the magnetic base Mark. Interested in this approach myself.


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## OleGrump (Jun 16, 2017)

Watch some of the shorter (i.e. less than 10 minutes) videos on Youtube. At least ONE of them you find will A. Be well thought out and sensible, and B. actually be adapted to your table saw. I find this to be true with MOST things I watch there. Once I see something I can actually USE, I make notes then watch some of the other videos for entertainment value. There are whole hell of a lot of guys out there who need their own personal Al Borland to keep them outta the hospital.


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