# Flattening waterstones



## JSilverman (Mar 31, 2011)

How do you flatten your waterstones? I have a Norton flattening stone and dislike it (it needs to be flattened itself too much). And sandpaper on granite or glass is a pain.

Anyone try and like (or dislike) the new DMT Diaflat lapping plate?


----------



## TominTexas (Aug 20, 2010)

I also have Norton waterstones and the Norton flattening stone - I agree, the flattening stone is about worthless - it quickly goes out of flat and can add to the aggravation of keeping the other stones flat. The only negative about the Dia Flat that I've read is its coarseness - others have reported that it leaves a flat surface but the coarse diamond grit scores the surface of fine waterstones leaving a less desireable surface for refining your edges - don't know this from experience - it's just what I've read.

The Dia Flat is pricey at nearly $200 so I don't see one in my future. I'll be curious to see the responses from others.

Regards
Tom


----------



## Alster (Aug 7, 2009)

I read a book by a reputable, even well-known woodworker (just can't remember who) who said that he flattens his waterstones against one another. Just a few quick passes after each tool is all it takes, and he made no mention of cross-contamination (which I think is probably a bit overblown, anyway). I've tried this, and it seems to work fine.

For what it's worth, in the olden days they didn't have dia-flats or flattening stones. They either rubbed one stone against another, or more likely, they used a stone that wasn't perfectly flat. And they ended up with very sharp tools capable of turning out some spectacular work.


----------



## ChuckM (May 12, 2008)

Strictly by the wet/dry sandpaper on a thick glass plate method. Cheap but effective with my 100, 4000/8000 water stones. I do it often so each flattening time is short, as there`s little cave to remove. Use a straight edge to check the stones after each flattening.


----------



## ksSlim (Jun 27, 2010)

Out of frustration with a purchased "flattening stone", I tried the door stop (concrete block). Worked well.
Available at home centers everywhere, probably best to check with a straight edge for extreme flatness.
My neighbor uses the concrete on his driveway. He says the "oldtimers" used whatever was flat and "coarse enough".


----------



## SouthpawCA (Jul 19, 2009)

wet/dry sandpaper 600 grit on glass from the local auto supply store


----------



## woodjewelry (Jun 9, 2010)

Me too, sandpaper on a glass plate, or rubbing against another stone.


----------



## Rileysdad (Jun 4, 2009)

Cut a 16" piece of 120 grit from a role and clamp one end to your jointer's infeed table. No need to stick it down. Place stone near the clamped end a push. Reverse and repeat. A few passes should do it.


----------



## Loren (May 30, 2008)

I use a floor sanding screen on a cast iron or glass surface. MDF works too.

Long after the screen is too dull for sanding floors it works for waterstones. The
dust falls down in the square holes so flattening is quick indeed.


----------



## ksSlim (Jun 27, 2010)

> Loren Doh, a Homer moment! Why didn't I think of that? Great suggestion.


----------



## mark88 (Jun 8, 2009)

i haven't done it but when a buddy of mine (phenomenal woodworker/retired carpenter) bought me my 8000 grit he told me to sand it down with emery paper.


----------



## Millo (Jan 19, 2010)

I just recently prepared my first chisels. Wow, tons of work on those backs, or it could very well be I am doing something wrong. Anyhow, I flatened the stones on sandpaper over a granite block.

I am considering the extra-coarse 8x3 DMT Dia-Sharp to cut the backs of these new Narex chisels a bit quicker (huge ripples on those backs), and to flatten my waterstones…. seems like it would be faster. Any ideas on how would these work?


----------



## Millo (Jan 19, 2010)

Don't mean to hijack the topic, but: a question regarding waterstones that are kept in water (not the fine grits)-how often do you change the water in the container?


----------



## Goodsh (Feb 21, 2013)

I just tried the sand screen and it worked great. Fast and cheaper than sandpaper. Nice idea!


----------



## pjped (Feb 25, 2011)

Millo, I use that one and it works great


----------



## JADobson (Aug 14, 2012)

Pete, thanks for resurecting this thread, I learnt a few things. I, like Goodsh, would be interested to know how often the water should be changed.


----------



## Goodsh (Feb 21, 2013)

That was actually Millo asking about changing the water. I don't bother storing mine in water I just soak before use so it's not an issue for me. I don't see why you'd ever need to change the water.


----------



## GarageWoodworks (Jun 30, 2012)

I love the Norton flattening stone. Mine is almost down to the point that I need a new one. It's still very flat.

I think the key is to rub your waterstone w/ the flattening stone in a circular motion.

I've never had to flatten it.


----------



## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/36906


----------



## gko (Jul 8, 2009)

I use large diamond plates to flatten my waterstones. But I often start on a concrete block like ksSlim and find it does a quick and fairly decent job. If I'm sharpening narrow chisels where the error is not as critical I might start with the concrete blocks and go directly to rubbing two waterstones together. I tend to rub adjacent grit stones so I don't cross contaminate coarse with fine stones. If I'm sharpening my plane blades then I flatten with the concrete block, then the diamond plate and then a light rubbing adjacent grit stones.

I push the center of the stone with the flat of my hand spreading the force evenly in the center. Pushing down on the two ends tend to round off the two ends. Pushing the center gives a flatter stone. Push lightly so it does not bend the stone. I used to place a short piece of wood and press on it to make sure the stone is not bending but I found there's no difference if you don't push too hard. I sometime check it with my straight edge before sharpening my large plane blades. Use a lot of water to keep the waste flowing away. I use several patterns including figure 8, oval and back and forth.

Hope this helps.


----------



## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

I use a DMT diamond stone to flatten my water stones.


----------



## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

I keep my stones in water with a splash of bleach (think swimming pool water).
Keep 'em stored for months without any strange stuff growin', and keeps the stones clean as a whistle.
I flatten 'em with a cheapo 800 grit diamond hone from HF.
Bill


----------



## ClintSearl (Dec 8, 2011)

Water stones are a fad. Throw 'em away and switch to oil stones.


----------



## JJohnston (May 22, 2009)

Tell that to the Japanese, who have been using water stones on their blades since their feudal period.


----------



## ClintSearl (Dec 8, 2011)

Yeah? Well, sashimi is just a fad, too.


----------



## WhoMe (Jul 9, 2009)

Tried using oil stones, didn't care for them (must have been a fad  )
Been using water stones for a while and they work ok but flattening them is a PITA. I always keep them in water so they are ready. I do change the water about every 3rd sharpening session as the slurry and metal particles seem to make a mess of the water.
have been dabbling with sandpaper/scary sharp and am still not happy.
The only thing left is diamond plates. I will probably end up doing a hybrid system in the end. I find that certain parts of each method seem to work better for me than others.


----------

