# Limbert Lamp Table - Stickley #240



## CaptainSkully (Aug 28, 2008)

*Templates*

So, between TreeFrogFurniture.BlogSpot.com and Robert Lang's book "More Shop Drawings for Craftsman Furniture", I decided that the corner of our dining room could stand an accent table. TreeFrog has built two different styles, so I "borrowed" the plans for the one I liked (he posted them online) and made my first template.










I'm going to wait to make the interior template until I have the shell complete. The angles make things a bit messy. Like TreeFrog, I will be posting about each step along the way. I can already tell you that I should've made a posterboard template. Laying out on both sides of the particle board did not line up correctly, causing a discrepancy between the two faces. I will endeavor to correct for this with the depth setting of the pattern following bit when I get to that step. I tried to make the transitions as smooth as possible because I know that will be transfered by the router bit to the QSWO. I'm envisioning using the TransTint #6003 Reddish Brown on this table and refinishing the ammonia fumed red oak tabouret tables the same, so hopefully they all match.

Some helpful hints: I cut the insides of the side template by raising the table saw blade up into the work while the overall blank was still square. I then cut out as much as I could with the band saw and finished with a coping saw and scroll saw. I was able to cut the tapered sides using a clamping guide, instead of messing with a tapering jig. Roughing out with rasps, then refining the curves with files helped a lot. I then finished off with sandpaper in hand to accomodate the curves and transitions.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

CaptainSkully said:


> *Templates*
> 
> So, between TreeFrogFurniture.BlogSpot.com and Robert Lang's book "More Shop Drawings for Craftsman Furniture", I decided that the corner of our dining room could stand an accent table. TreeFrog has built two different styles, so I "borrowed" the plans for the one I liked (he posted them online) and made my first template.
> 
> ...


Look forward to more


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

CaptainSkully said:


> *Templates*
> 
> So, between TreeFrogFurniture.BlogSpot.com and Robert Lang's book "More Shop Drawings for Craftsman Furniture", I decided that the corner of our dining room could stand an accent table. TreeFrog has built two different styles, so I "borrowed" the plans for the one I liked (he posted them online) and made my first template.
> 
> ...


Those will be some sweet tables.


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## CaptainSkully (Aug 28, 2008)

*Glue Ups*

Yesterday, I milled up four long, rough boards to 3/4". The Robert Lang book uses thicker stock, but I had to get rid of the saw marks. I chopped them up a bit oversized to give me some leeway during the glue up. I arranged the boards for defects and grain to give me the best four sides out. I glued up one panel every two hours last night during dinner and a movie. This morning they're all ready for the band saw. One thing I've noticed is that there seems to be a lot of waste with this project. Luckily, I had the lumber left over that wasn't necessarily earmarked for a specific project, and I'm going to go buy all the wood for the dining room table, so I was able to use my current lumber at my discretion. This table will temporarily be used as a sideboard in our dining room until I can make a real one. My defacto father in law, who's an excellent woodworker in his own right, will be here this weekend, so I want to have something cool to show him.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

CaptainSkully said:


> *Glue Ups*
> 
> Yesterday, I milled up four long, rough boards to 3/4". The Robert Lang book uses thicker stock, but I had to get rid of the saw marks. I chopped them up a bit oversized to give me some leeway during the glue up. I arranged the boards for defects and grain to give me the best four sides out. I glued up one panel every two hours last night during dinner and a movie. This morning they're all ready for the band saw. One thing I've noticed is that there seems to be a lot of waste with this project. Luckily, I had the lumber left over that wasn't necessarily earmarked for a specific project, and I'm going to go buy all the wood for the dining room table, so I was able to use my current lumber at my discretion. This table will temporarily be used as a sideboard in our dining room until I can make a real one. My defacto father in law, who's an excellent woodworker in his own right, will be here this weekend, so I want to have something cool to show him.


cool blog


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## CaptainSkully (Aug 28, 2008)

*Jigs & Dry Fit*

Following TreeFrog as closely as possible, I cut out the blanks for the sides. I cheated a tad and used the wedges from the prototype to establish the tapers on the sides. One one side, I used one wedge, on the second side, I had to use both to compensate for the previous taper. These were cut with the blade at 90 degrees to the table saw to give me a point of reference when I'm cutting the miters.










I created the jigs to hold the sides stable while I cut them at a 44 degree miter. I found that my jigs were too short and created a dangerous tipping situation while running the sides across the table saw. I also found that 44 degrees is a bit too steep, so I'm going to try 43 degrees tomorrow. When I taped the sides together, there was a slight gap on the outside corners. I'd rather the gap be in the inside, hence the 43 degrees. I mistakenly thought that if I captured the blank with an internal block on the jig, it would more positively locate the blank. What I found out was that it interfered with putting the blank in the jig, so I removed it, hence the scabs in the middle of the jigs.










I cut the 3 degree angle on the top and bottom while the blanks were still rectangular, which gave me two long edges to run along the fence. It also guaranteed that the tops and bottoms were parallel. I also set the fence at the correct distance to raise (plunge?) the blade up into the sides to create the shelf support bottom, also making that parallel to the bottom. I also plowed out the slot that the cross pieces will fit into while the sides were parallel, making sure the slot was centered. The only problem is that if the blanks are slightly different widths, it translates directly to the slot width. I rationalized that the shoulder of the dado on the cross pieces will hide any slop and the whole thing will lock into place because of the angle of the sides.










Following TreeFrog's advice, I created solid cross-pieces to support the top, instead of the corbels that Robert Lang describes in his book. I think this is a relatively easy way to make the table as strong as possible. Once I get the sides dry fit properly, I'll measure the angle along the sides to determine the proper bias for the dadoes on the cross pieces.

I will use the template with the router and proper bit to generate an accurate internal cutout. I roughed the cutout with the bandsaw. I cut the shelf supports with my dovetail saw to get an idea of how to make the template for the shelf. The top will just be a standard square with rounded corners, not requiring a template. Before I glue up the sides, I'll tweak the inner shelf. I have to admit that when I laid out the template for the sides, I didn't follow the fractional measurements from Mr. Lang. I rounded them to the nearest convenient inch. I'm afraid this might throw off some of the other documented measurements, so I'm approaching the final dimensions carefully.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

CaptainSkully said:


> *Jigs & Dry Fit*
> 
> Following TreeFrog as closely as possible, I cut out the blanks for the sides. I cheated a tad and used the wedges from the prototype to establish the tapers on the sides. One one side, I used one wedge, on the second side, I had to use both to compensate for the previous taper. These were cut with the blade at 90 degrees to the table saw to give me a point of reference when I'm cutting the miters.
> 
> ...


super info great blog


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## matt1970 (Mar 28, 2007)

CaptainSkully said:


> *Jigs & Dry Fit*
> 
> Following TreeFrog as closely as possible, I cut out the blanks for the sides. I cheated a tad and used the wedges from the prototype to establish the tapers on the sides. One one side, I used one wedge, on the second side, I had to use both to compensate for the previous taper. These were cut with the blade at 90 degrees to the table saw to give me a point of reference when I'm cutting the miters.
> 
> ...


wow…great details…


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## CaptainSkully (Aug 28, 2008)

*Template Routing*

I was able to get back out into the shop and make some progress on this project. This was my first foray into template routing. I can definitely see the power of this technique. I was able to knock out the inside, decorative cuts on all four sides and they're identical. They need almost no sanding. The slight errors in the template were the only problems on the finished sides. It took only a light hand sanding to fix those.

I didn't have too much trouble with wood grain, but I can certainly tell you that you need to use the starting pin. Once I missed in and the pattern bit grabbed the work and destroyed one of my leg bases. I actually thought about trimming all of them off to get rid of the chip out.

The interior shelf started out as a template, but I biffed the template. I also realized that once you've custom fit the sides together, the interior shelf needs to be custom fit.

I also made the ridiculously easily-avoided mistake of attaching the template to the OUTSIDE of the blank. Now I have a few screw holes to fill. Luckily, I've been assembling the table with a good side and a bad side in mind. I've managed to keep MOST of my mistakes on the BAD side, which will be up against the wall (with feeling).

I bit the bullet and glued two halves together the other night. I used Titebond II Dark Wood Glue, hoping it would blend with the final Stickley finish. Since the sides are at supposed right angles, it's very difficult to clamp. I used a lot of tape and figured if it was a tad over 90, I could bend it in when when doing the final glue up (they're just a few degrees over 90). To disguise the joint, I rounded over the corner with 80 grit sand paper, which ended up leaving a pretty slim glue line. The little gaps I plan to fill with stainable putty.

I trimmed the inside shelf to what I thought was the proper dimensions. It has to carefully fill the tapered gap, but not force the sides apart, a rather tricky situation. Just a tad undersized, I figure that the dark stain and the fact that it's on the inside will help.

With regards to the cross braces, as I previously blogged, I had them half-lapped already. Once I jammed the shelf and ratcheted in the top, I was able to take measurements of the top, and going down the height of the cross brace. This roughly corroborated the 3 degree angle on the table. I set my miter gauge to 3 degrees on both sides and plowed out a dado deep enough to take the sides in and fit in the gap down the centerline. I was able to wedge and hammer the cross brace in, which solidified the top nicely. Now if I can only fix the gaps in the feet and deal with the chip out, I'll be happy.

BTW, a rep from Valspar has been very nice to help me find the proper aniline dye and glaze to achieve an authentic Stickley finish (short of ammonia fuming). I'll be blogging about that as it develops. I realize that Stickley pieces have a relatively wide range of finishes, at least to the eye, but I'm looking for that warm, brown finish, with an undertone of red.

I have to give kudos to my father-in-law. He helped me threadlock my collet to the motor on my Hitachi M12V 3 1/4 HP router. He also made my router table extension for my table saw, which allowed me to mount it upside down and crank out the above blanks.

I have to tell anyone who is thinking about making a project like this that I'm still a little confused about the angle of the miter for the sides. Robert Lang says just over 45, and TreeFrog says just under 45. Considering my table saw only goes to 45, I didn't really know how to take it. Dry fits on the long mitered taper don't really help. It's only when you glue it up do you really see what's up. I erred on the side of bending it square and minimizing the outside gap at 43 degrees.

Attaching the template to the blank (top):









Attaching the template to the blank (bottom):









Done routing (top):









Done routing (bottom):









Dry fit with TreeFrog's cross-braces (gaps are exaggerated due to dry fit):


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

CaptainSkully said:


> *Template Routing*
> 
> I was able to get back out into the shop and make some progress on this project. This was my first foray into template routing. I can definitely see the power of this technique. I was able to knock out the inside, decorative cuts on all four sides and they're identical. They need almost no sanding. The slight errors in the template were the only problems on the finished sides. It took only a light hand sanding to fix those.
> 
> ...


That is such a great piece. Which plan was that from?

It is neat to see the progress on this one.


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## kolwdwrkr (Jul 27, 2008)

CaptainSkully said:


> *Template Routing*
> 
> I was able to get back out into the shop and make some progress on this project. This was my first foray into template routing. I can definitely see the power of this technique. I was able to knock out the inside, decorative cuts on all four sides and they're identical. They need almost no sanding. The slight errors in the template were the only problems on the finished sides. It took only a light hand sanding to fix those.
> 
> ...


Looks like it's coming along


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## CaptainSkully (Aug 28, 2008)

CaptainSkully said:


> *Template Routing*
> 
> I was able to get back out into the shop and make some progress on this project. This was my first foray into template routing. I can definitely see the power of this technique. I was able to knock out the inside, decorative cuts on all four sides and they're identical. They need almost no sanding. The slight errors in the template were the only problems on the finished sides. It took only a light hand sanding to fix those.
> 
> ...


The plans are from Robert Lang's book (see previous blog) and the procedure is nicely detailed in TreeFrogFurniture.Blogspot.com (including a SketchUp drawing). I could never have attempted this piece without these reference materials. If and when I recover from the trauma of this piece, I plan on doing the companion piece #238, which entails mostly the same techniques. I'm hoping that this blog will in some way augment TreeFrog's and if anyone has questions about anything I've done, I'll be happy to respond with my limited experience/knowledge.

I will tell you that each piece that I make that is more advanced than the previous one makes my girlfriend much more likely to invest in tools and wood. I've dragged her into Stickley furniture galleries and she's rightfully aghast at the prices of even the current pieces. When we saw the prices of the originals at the SF Arts & Crafts Fair last weekend, she was on the verge of tears that I'm relatively handy in the shop (did I mention that I'm given to hyperbole?). BTW, I just got the Uniguard for my table saw after test-driving my father-in-law's and losing a Beisemeyer on eBay. Sigh…


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## CaptainSkully (Aug 28, 2008)

CaptainSkully said:


> *Template Routing*
> 
> I was able to get back out into the shop and make some progress on this project. This was my first foray into template routing. I can definitely see the power of this technique. I was able to knock out the inside, decorative cuts on all four sides and they're identical. They need almost no sanding. The slight errors in the template were the only problems on the finished sides. It took only a light hand sanding to fix those.
> 
> ...


BTW, while working on another, albeit related topic, I stumbled back across Dusty's Limbert Table, Stickley #238! It's in red oak and has his famous 12 step finish (why does everything come in twelves?). I smell another blog coming soon to theaters near you…


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## CaptainSkully (Aug 28, 2008)

CaptainSkully said:


> *Template Routing*
> 
> I was able to get back out into the shop and make some progress on this project. This was my first foray into template routing. I can definitely see the power of this technique. I was able to knock out the inside, decorative cuts on all four sides and they're identical. They need almost no sanding. The slight errors in the template were the only problems on the finished sides. It took only a light hand sanding to fix those.
> 
> ...


I don't know how many of you obsess over your current project, but when I'm working on something that I really like, I like to stare at it all night after coming in from the shop. In this case, I actually brought the dry fit base into the living room where I could see it while watching TV.


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

CaptainSkully said:


> *Template Routing*
> 
> I was able to get back out into the shop and make some progress on this project. This was my first foray into template routing. I can definitely see the power of this technique. I was able to knock out the inside, decorative cuts on all four sides and they're identical. They need almost no sanding. The slight errors in the template were the only problems on the finished sides. It took only a light hand sanding to fix those.
> 
> ...


I thought that might be in Lang's book. I will have to pull his books off the shelf and take a look. I LOVE the books of details that he published.

Dusty has to be the most prolific Arts & Crafts furniture maker I know of. He does great work.


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## CaptainSkully (Aug 28, 2008)

CaptainSkully said:


> *Template Routing*
> 
> I was able to get back out into the shop and make some progress on this project. This was my first foray into template routing. I can definitely see the power of this technique. I was able to knock out the inside, decorative cuts on all four sides and they're identical. They need almost no sanding. The slight errors in the template were the only problems on the finished sides. It took only a light hand sanding to fix those.
> 
> ...


Dusty is awesome. Check out Schroeder, tenontim, TheDane, Craftsman Collective, handplane, pashley, gizmodyne, WhatTheChuck, etc. All excellent woodworkers who have helped me immenseley.


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

CaptainSkully said:


> *Template Routing*
> 
> I was able to get back out into the shop and make some progress on this project. This was my first foray into template routing. I can definitely see the power of this technique. I was able to knock out the inside, decorative cuts on all four sides and they're identical. They need almost no sanding. The slight errors in the template were the only problems on the finished sides. It took only a light hand sanding to fix those.
> 
> ...


Yes, all worth mentioning for their craftsmanship in the Arts&Crafts vernacular.


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## skywalker01 (May 19, 2009)

CaptainSkully said:


> *Template Routing*
> 
> I was able to get back out into the shop and make some progress on this project. This was my first foray into template routing. I can definitely see the power of this technique. I was able to knock out the inside, decorative cuts on all four sides and they're identical. They need almost no sanding. The slight errors in the template were the only problems on the finished sides. It took only a light hand sanding to fix those.
> 
> ...


Great job on the table. Working on the exact same one out of plans from Popular Woodworking. I'll post pics when I'm done. Thanks for the tips!


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## CaptainSkully (Aug 28, 2008)

*Progress as Promised...*

Today, I was able to glue up the top, cut it out, and sand it. It looks pretty damn cool.


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## CaptainSkully (Aug 28, 2008)

CaptainSkully said:


> *Progress as Promised...*
> 
> Today, I was able to glue up the top, cut it out, and sand it. It looks pretty damn cool.


I forgot to mention that I no longer use any joinery on the table top glue ups. I've found that nice edges on the jointer and TiteBond II makes a very strong top. Plus, with no biscuits to contend with, aligning the boards is as easy as whacking the offending piece with a rubber mallet.


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## CaptainSkully (Aug 28, 2008)

*Final Glue Up & Finish*

At the urging of my girlfriend, I fumed a small scrap of QSWO and then went over it with amber shellac and dark brown wax, buffing it out with 0000 steel wool. It's pretty magnificent. As a result, I decided to give my Limbert table an "authentic" Stickley finish.










While waiting for the glue to cook, I fashioned what can only be described as an impromptu fuming tent. Even one of my neighbors came over to see what monstrosity I was building, as they're usually pretty aesthetically pleasing. I told her about ammonia fuming, but not that it's practically chemical warfare on the neighborhood. I believe strongly in the concept that it's better to ask forgiveness than permission.

Anyway, here's where I'm at on Labor Day, 2009:










This is the first piece I've ever made that I took ultra-seriously. I took the time to sand every part, sand the orbital swirl marks out, and fix all the boo-boos I made (i.e. bandsaw marks, chipout, etc.). Thanks Marc!

A couple of lessons I've learned: make sure your template is perfect. It's much easier to fix the template than each piece you made with it. It wasn't until I read Jewitt's finishing article that I even noticed the swirl marks from the orbital sander. They're a lot harder to get rid of than I expected.

BTW, I didn't have enough band clamps to do the whole assembly, so I used an old boat-building trick. I just glued the part I could clamp, then when that's cured, I glue another section. If the parts don't quite meet, run a flush-cut saw in between them and it will make the parts meet flush by shaving an equal amount from each side. If you've watched Norm build the Clancy dinghy, you know what I'm talking about.


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

CaptainSkully said:


> *Final Glue Up & Finish*
> 
> At the urging of my girlfriend, I fumed a small scrap of QSWO and then went over it with amber shellac and dark brown wax, buffing it out with 0000 steel wool. It's pretty magnificent. As a result, I decided to give my Limbert table an "authentic" Stickley finish.
> 
> ...


I can't wait to see the finished project. It looks absolutely great so far!


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## gagewestern (Mar 24, 2009)

CaptainSkully said:


> *Final Glue Up & Finish*
> 
> At the urging of my girlfriend, I fumed a small scrap of QSWO and then went over it with amber shellac and dark brown wax, buffing it out with 0000 steel wool. It's pretty magnificent. As a result, I decided to give my Limbert table an "authentic" Stickley finish.
> 
> ...


very nice is the top round brian


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## CaptainSkully (Aug 28, 2008)

CaptainSkully said:


> *Final Glue Up & Finish*
> 
> At the urging of my girlfriend, I fumed a small scrap of QSWO and then went over it with amber shellac and dark brown wax, buffing it out with 0000 steel wool. It's pretty magnificent. As a result, I decided to give my Limbert table an "authentic" Stickley finish.
> 
> ...


Wow Todd, coming from you, that's a pretty serious compliment.

Brian, the top is a 20" x 20" square with a 3-4" radius on all the corners (I used a paint can). It softens the look, but gives more surface area than a round top. Remember, I'm using this as a sideboard until the sideboard is done. I've seen TreeFrog's Limbert Fern Stand with a round top, and I like the more masculine square top. Of course, he made it for a woman, so it's all good.


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## Scarcraig01 (Aug 27, 2009)

CaptainSkully said:


> *Final Glue Up & Finish*
> 
> At the urging of my girlfriend, I fumed a small scrap of QSWO and then went over it with amber shellac and dark brown wax, buffing it out with 0000 steel wool. It's pretty magnificent. As a result, I decided to give my Limbert table an "authentic" Stickley finish.
> 
> ...


Great post, looking forward to seeing that authentic fumed finish, pretty cool.


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## MikeGager (Jun 15, 2009)

CaptainSkully said:


> *Final Glue Up & Finish*
> 
> At the urging of my girlfriend, I fumed a small scrap of QSWO and then went over it with amber shellac and dark brown wax, buffing it out with 0000 steel wool. It's pretty magnificent. As a result, I decided to give my Limbert table an "authentic" Stickley finish.
> 
> ...


urging of your girlfriend? come on guy! lets see the results!

oh btw i did some testing of ammonia fuming the other day, regular grocery store ammonia works you just got to leave it in longer. i left the piece in for like 72 hours and it was almost black

also i lightly sanded the surfaces after it was fumed and it really made the rays pop. just something to consider


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## CaptainSkully (Aug 28, 2008)

CaptainSkully said:


> *Final Glue Up & Finish*
> 
> At the urging of my girlfriend, I fumed a small scrap of QSWO and then went over it with amber shellac and dark brown wax, buffing it out with 0000 steel wool. It's pretty magnificent. As a result, I decided to give my Limbert table an "authentic" Stickley finish.
> 
> ...


Oh, post a pic of the fumed sample. Duh. Here it is.

This is the raw quartersawn white oak after fuming for approximately 21 hours. Nice and dark. I put was on the right edge for comparison. You can see the ghost of a painter's pyramid in the fuming.









Here's several coats of thin amber shellac. I put wax on the right half. Pretty nice, huh?


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## Vincent (Mar 10, 2009)

CaptainSkully said:


> *Final Glue Up & Finish*
> 
> At the urging of my girlfriend, I fumed a small scrap of QSWO and then went over it with amber shellac and dark brown wax, buffing it out with 0000 steel wool. It's pretty magnificent. As a result, I decided to give my Limbert table an "authentic" Stickley finish.
> 
> ...


Very nice. Can't wait to see the finished piece. Did you use 28% ammonia (blue print grade)?


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## CaptainSkully (Aug 28, 2008)

CaptainSkully said:


> *Final Glue Up & Finish*
> 
> At the urging of my girlfriend, I fumed a small scrap of QSWO and then went over it with amber shellac and dark brown wax, buffing it out with 0000 steel wool. It's pretty magnificent. As a result, I decided to give my Limbert table an "authentic" Stickley finish.
> 
> ...


Yeah, I think mine's 29%. I got it at a chemical warehouse for a lot more than a blueprint shop. It's wicked stuff. I wear rubber gloves, goggles and a chemical respirator when I use it. It's very harsh on any membrane (i.e. eyes, nose, throat, etc.).


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## MikeGager (Jun 15, 2009)

CaptainSkully said:


> *Final Glue Up & Finish*
> 
> At the urging of my girlfriend, I fumed a small scrap of QSWO and then went over it with amber shellac and dark brown wax, buffing it out with 0000 steel wool. It's pretty magnificent. As a result, I decided to give my Limbert table an "authentic" Stickley finish.
> 
> ...


nice job!


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## Scarcraig01 (Aug 27, 2009)

CaptainSkully said:


> *Final Glue Up & Finish*
> 
> At the urging of my girlfriend, I fumed a small scrap of QSWO and then went over it with amber shellac and dark brown wax, buffing it out with 0000 steel wool. It's pretty magnificent. As a result, I decided to give my Limbert table an "authentic" Stickley finish.
> 
> ...


That's exactly the look I was after on my white oak barristers, but yours looks much, much, better! I tried some formula from FWW that used amber dye, followed by shellac, a Minwax stain, and then a regular topcoat. It was supposed to mimic what you did…..it didn't…oh well! That looks terrific, nice work.


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## CaptainSkully (Aug 28, 2008)

CaptainSkully said:


> *Final Glue Up & Finish*
> 
> At the urging of my girlfriend, I fumed a small scrap of QSWO and then went over it with amber shellac and dark brown wax, buffing it out with 0000 steel wool. It's pretty magnificent. As a result, I decided to give my Limbert table an "authentic" Stickley finish.
> 
> ...


Thanks. I've got a Forum thread going about Stickley finishes. I've spent a lot of time and money trying to concoct a recipe. With the convoluted way this table goes together, I didn't want to have to prefinish it, then assemble it. This way, I was able to assemble it, sand out all of the clamp marks, and then fume the whole thing at once. I know it'll be fun applying the shellac, but if I don't thin it too much, I should have enough working time to do an entire face with a wet edge. For some reason, the ammonia isn't nearly as noxious as I remember it being when I fumed the red oak tabouret tables. I tried Valspar's dark fumed oak aniline dye in distilled water and didn't get quite the look I was going for. I guess there's no substitute for the real thing.


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## CaptainSkully (Aug 28, 2008)

*Fumearama*










After letting the glue cure overnight, I took it out of the clamps and gave it a final hand sanding. Not too bad, but could be better. I think next time I'll err on making the legs touch on the outside corners instead of a flat meeting. This caused some gappage that I filled with putty.










Since our dog laid down by the tent, I figured it was time to fume. There's no better time than the present. I carefully put the tent over the table and then propped them both up enough to get a glass pie dish under the table. The dog ran away. I lowered both and now I wait for about 24 hours. I want a very dark, antique look, so I'll max out the fumage.


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## CaptainSkully (Aug 28, 2008)

CaptainSkully said:


> *Fumearama*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


BTW, since I didn't glue the inner shelf in, if I glued a secondary shelf underneath, it would be a perfect place for a secret compartment. All you have to do is pry the shelf up. It's captured inside the table so it can't come out, but it can be raised enough. I was actually thinking of putting a San Francisco Chronicle in there and buttoning it up.


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## edreher (Feb 3, 2009)

CaptainSkully said:


> *Fumearama*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


And then tell the world where your secrete compartment is…


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## Scarcraig01 (Aug 27, 2009)

CaptainSkully said:


> *Fumearama*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Nice looking table, I think you should put the Chronicle in there.


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## matt1970 (Mar 28, 2007)

CaptainSkully said:


> *Fumearama*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I CANT WAIT TO SEE THE RESULTS>>>>


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## MikeGager (Jun 15, 2009)

CaptainSkully said:


> *Fumearama*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


is it done yet?!


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## CaptainSkully (Aug 28, 2008)

CaptainSkully said:


> *Fumearama*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


It's funny you should ask. No, it's not done yet. After 60 hours, it's only half way done. Part of the reason I think is that the pie dish would only fit underneath the table, so possibly that's kept the fumes from circulating properly. Also, for some reason, we seem to think the ammonia isn't nearly as strong as it was last year. To address this, we gingerly placed the glass pie dish on the top with some painter's pyramids. I hope we don't get a quake! I checked it again this morning, and it looks like it's making progress again. I've noticed some clamping bruises that need to be sanded out some more. Good thing ammonia fuming is a penetrating finish. Two years ago, I cut a fumed piece and it went 3/16" deep!


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## Treefrogfurniture (Oct 11, 2009)

CaptainSkully said:


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Beautiful job Capt,
I'm glad to see that my blog was a help to someone. Keep an eye open for a couple of more Limbert projects coming this fall.
Brad Ferguson

http://treefrogfurniture.blogspot.com/


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

CaptainSkully said:


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I really like limbert furniture well done Capt


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## CaptainSkully (Aug 28, 2008)

CaptainSkully said:


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Thanks Brad. I've been missing your posts, but I know you've been a busy boy. Looking forward to posts about things like your Darrell Peart experience and the Hall frame.


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## CaptainSkully (Aug 28, 2008)

*Ammonia Fume Finish*










Well, after three days in solitary, I decided to pop the the weasel. The different boards fumed to different tones, but I think with shellac and brown furniture wax, it'll be just non-perfect enough for some charm. The wood putty had no tannins in it, so it's almost white. Luckily, one corner is perfect, so that'll be the one facing out. I tried my Dark Fumed Oak aniline dye, and it didn't work on the putty either. I even brushed the liquid ammonia directly onto the bottom of the table top. Maxed out tannins. Now it's just penetrating deeper into the wood. Regardless, I at least can say it's "authentic" Stickley finish. Sigh…

You can tell from the last blog that it's considerably darker. It also took any color differences in the wood and exagerrated it.


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## CaptainSkully (Aug 28, 2008)

CaptainSkully said:


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The flash has thrown off the actual color considerably. I think that being out in the open air for a couple of hours now, the brown is mellowing across the top (or I'm just getting used to it).


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

CaptainSkully said:


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I have a video coming out soon on using toner. You do not have so spray the whole thing, just the area you want to color.

Use a tripod, slow shutter speed, and no flash for good color.

I like the overall piece. I know you learned volumes from this experience.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

CaptainSkully said:


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Nice work Skully a great stickley design well done.


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## matt1970 (Mar 28, 2007)

CaptainSkully said:


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its coming along…sorry the color is not exactly what you want…but its still great.


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## tenhoeda (Jun 27, 2008)

CaptainSkully said:


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I really like the color. I am thinking of finishing options for my chairs. I like the look of the ammonia fuming, but I don't think I am going to use it. I don't have the room to build the size tent I would need.


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## Vincent (Mar 10, 2009)

CaptainSkully said:


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A very nice project. I sometimes make my own putty with sawdust and stainable wood glue (like Elmers Probond). If you are hiding small nail holes, it works pretty good. Mix sawdust from the boards from your project about 1:1 with glue. Knead to a dough like consistency and fill. Doesn't look great if you are trying to fill large gaps.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

CaptainSkully said:


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Nice work!


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## MikeGager (Jun 15, 2009)

CaptainSkully said:


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you ever get to put shellac on this one yet?


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## CaptainSkully (Aug 28, 2008)

*Finish Line*










I finally had a day to work on our stuff. With a little urging from my girlfriend to finish the fumed table sitting in our dining room, I bit the bullet and gave it a good shellacing. This was my first time using shellac. It's pretty difficult to work with, as it dries fast and leave a build-up. I cut the Zinser Amber in half with denatured alcohol, and grabbed a beer for myself (I thought it only fair), and went to town on it. It gave it a nice, rich look. When that dried, I busted out all of my dark gel stains and did a test swatch on the underside of the top. I really liked the authentic, antique look that General Finishes "Antique Walnut" gave it, so I gave the whole thing one coat. I'm pretty satisfied with the look. The gel stain gave it a very rick, old look. I'll wait for the gel to polymerize and then put three coats of Arm-R-Seal Satin on it. When that's done, some dark brown furniture wax. After that, it's ready for large salad bowls and trivets. Trivets, hmmm…










I'm resisting the urge to load it up into the truck and run over to Craftsman Home in Berkeley for a comparison to the real thing. I think this blog is done. Thanks for watching.

I'm going to have to seriously resist building the accompanying piece, the Limber Fern Stand #244:


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

CaptainSkully said:


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Thanks Skully super blog and project,very well done


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## Vincent (Mar 10, 2009)

CaptainSkully said:


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The finish is very good and I like the whole blog. Keep it up. Gotta make the fern table.


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## GregSalata (Feb 6, 2008)

CaptainSkully said:


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Great work.
I have always liked Limbert pieces.

That is a piece I would like to build in the not so distant future.

Really enjoyed the blog.


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## CaptainSkully (Aug 28, 2008)

CaptainSkully said:


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Thanks guys! Vincent, don't tempt me. Greg, make sure you make the jigs, and make them long enough. It's a very rewarding project and is very authentic looking. Making the stretchers half-lap like (Brad) TreeFrog suggests adds structural integrity, but is pretty difficult to make accurately. I might make the angled dadoes first, then worry about the half laps and end profiles. My stretcher assembly pushes the top a bit out of alignment, but not enough to be noticeable by anyone other than myself.


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## SST (Nov 30, 2006)

CaptainSkully said:


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I just stumbled across this project. Great job. I'm thinking of making the fern stand #244. I'll just need to find some plans. -SST


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## CaptainSkully (Aug 28, 2008)

CaptainSkully said:


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I was able to gank the dimension off of TreeFrogFurniture.Blogspot.com to make the lamp table. Here's the grid layout for both that will take care of the difficult part. Good luck and keep us posted.

http://treefrogfurniture.blogspot.com/2009/05/limbert-tables-in-sketchup.html

The fern stand is considerably more delicate than the lamp table. The good news is that once you make the template/jig, you can crank out as many as you want.


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## SST (Nov 30, 2006)

CaptainSkully said:


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thanks. I'll keep you posted.


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