# Dust collection



## welcon (Dec 3, 2012)

Ready to install PVC trunk work for my dust collection system. The elbows and pipe seem to fit pretty tight, should a person just use compression fitting or glue the joints up?


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## dyfhid (Jun 4, 2015)

I have read (no experience yet, dust collection coming in the spring) that you use regular PVC fittings, no glue, and screw them together, to be able to take them apart.

I had planned on doing this - do you see a flaw with the idea? I'd love to hear your opinion.


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## joey502 (Mar 30, 2014)

I would not glue them, you want to be able to take a joint apart if/ when you get a clog. It would also make future layout changes much less of a hassle.

My pipe is the green sewer pipe and fittings from HD. I painted it black before assembly and placed a single piece of black duct tape around each joint to seal it up. The paint is only to cover the awful color of the pipe.


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

I use PVC and have taped the joints with duck tape. Not really needed as joints are pretty tight.


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## rad457 (Jun 15, 2013)

I glued most of my joints except where I suspected the chance of pluggage? I found no need to tape the other joints.
Any connection to mobile machines are flex pipe and clamped.


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## Oldwest (Sep 22, 2010)

I just screwed all my 6" PVC pipe together and have not seen any leaks.

Just make sure your cut on the pipe is straight and the pipe gets fully seated.


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## AandCstyle (Mar 21, 2012)

Steve, do not glue the joints because you will want to make a change at some time as has been mentioned. I put a couple sheet metal screws in each joint, but they probably aren't needed. I tend to over build… Rather than using duct tape, I used cord caulk because I think it seals better. I found that cutting the tubing with the band saw to be the easiest when you just need a bit off an end (<14> mains to the dust ports. Let me know if you have any questions.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

I only screwed them together (DO NOT glue them) when they were under strain, like a drop from the ceiling. But I do seal the seams with silicone….you would be surprised how much they can leak. Ypu can probably measure it with an amp meter (I could). Set it up and measure the current draw with the gates closed (you will also hear a whistle at any of the larger leak points). Seal it and measure the amps again (gates closed). The amperage will drop slightly, indicating it's moving less air. That said; it's probably not enough to make a difference in the performance. But I sealed mine just to cut down on the whistle.


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## WoodNSawdust (Mar 7, 2015)

Like Fred I screwed and caulked mine. Inspect each joint while the DC is running looking for leaks and add additional caulk to seal them.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

I have had good luck lightly greasing the outside of the pipe before inserting into elbows or other fittings and using two screws at opposite sides. The grease allows the pipe to be installed to the full depth of the fitting vs. dry fitting which can sometimes bind before the joint is tight. Two screws on opposite sides holds everything together and it comes apart easily a day or a decade later.


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## welcon (Dec 3, 2012)

Thanks for the info guys, NO GLUE


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## welcon (Dec 3, 2012)

Well cut all my pieces and screwed them together ready to install them when my 4" U Brackets arrive from Lee Valley. I cut some pieces of plywood and screwed them to the top plates of my wall, then screwed some other strips between the studs of the wall. I will mount my brackets to these and should have really good support for the trunking. I will install an 18 gauge bare copper wire wrapped around all pipe.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

> I will install an 18 gauge bare copper wire wrapped around all pipe.
> 
> - Steve


You can/will do as you want….but that is a total waste of time/effort/money. (BTDT)


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## bob101 (Dec 14, 2008)

I did my shop in pvc and what I did is I made two main trunks with a clean out cap at each end and a friction fit joint in the middle of each run, then glued the rest of the joints, I also did not do any grounding at all , as I read a study from I believe m.i.t that basically states the chance of a static discharge related fire are lower than winning the lottery. I run machines in my shop at least thirty hours a week and have never had a static discharge!


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## AandCstyle (Mar 21, 2012)

Fred and Rob are correct, there is no need to try to ground PVC. It is an insulator, so you are only grounding the location that the wire touches and not the other 99+% of the tubing. I never got any static off my blast gates even when I lived in the desert.


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## welcon (Dec 3, 2012)

Ok no ground wire, more money in my pocket.
I guess I have been watching to many Down to Earth Woodworker videos on Youtube.


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## edwino (Nov 28, 2014)

Steve I found that the metal foil tape worked well. Somewhat expensive but stays sticky and can be formed well. I just cut it with a razor blade and retape if changes need to be made. Used it to make contact on some places where I have piped our built in vacuum


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