# Help identifying Craftsman Table Saw model number



## Craftsman70 (Jul 31, 2012)

This saw is on Craigslist near me being offered for $150. However they said the model # / serial # plate is missing. My concern if I bought it would be finding parts since I wouldn't have the model number. Anyone recognize this? Assuming it works well, does anyone have an opinion on its value?


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## toolie (Mar 16, 2011)

it's a 113 series contractor saw built by emerson electric for sears. probably has a 1 or 1 1/2 hp motor. judging from the fence and what look like stamped steel wings, it appears to be identical to this ridgid TS 2412:

http://www.ridgid.com/ASSETS/C67D3E55F4C64E808D10D17D7026F721/TS2412_Table_Saw_Man.pdf

there were a ton of those saws built. they all had model number that were configured like this:

113.XXXXXX

the 6 numbers that would replace the"Xs" usually indicated what it's basic model contained and then any optional features, like a leg stand. judging from the condition of the pictured saw, which looks good and clean, are they sure the id plate, which is on the rear of the left side of the saw cabinet when viewed form the operator's position, is missing?

it's a very popular starter saw and i have two of them. i like them so much , i sold a unisaw i refurbished and retained the two contractor saws. parts are readily available for them from several sources. that saw seems to be fairly complete, with a much better fence than most of them had (looks exactly like the OEM fence on my ridgid ts2412, which i've tuned to be every bit as accurate as the delta t2 i have on a cousin c-man TS) as well as having a miter gauge and it's splitter/blade guard. for $150, it's a good deal. anything less than that, assuming it's operationally sound, makes it, IMHO, a really good deal on a first rate starter, and possibly long term, saw.


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## Craftsman70 (Jul 31, 2012)

Thanks toolie


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## IrreverentJack (Aug 13, 2010)

I made the mistake of buying a Craftsman contractor saw with the model plate missing. I think the saw was a defective return that had ended up in the sellers hands. The table casting was warped into a U or valley shape. When I put a straight edge across the table the sides were 3/16 to 1/4" high. I was excited that the saw looked almost unused and didn't even notice the scratches the miter gauge was making on the table. That saw might not be a de-branded saw but look out for it. Take my advise and bring a straight edge. -Jack


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## JollyGreen67 (Nov 1, 2010)

I agree with Jack. I worked at a Sears Hardware and shipped numerous "broken" returned items to a Sears outlet for refurbishment to be sold. The missing tag is / might be one of these items. No touch !


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## Craftsman70 (Jul 31, 2012)

Thanks for the heads up. I'm going to take a look at it and will look it over well. Will definitely take a straight edge w/ me. I'll post results in a few days.


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## toolie (Mar 16, 2011)

also, make sure t's a belt drive and not either a direct or flex drive.


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## History (Dec 22, 2012)

I'd be more worried that the saw was stolen. Why else would someone remove the ID plate ?


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## Craftsman70 (Jul 31, 2012)

I'm hoping they just aren't looking in the right place. Its a daughter who is posting it for her father-in-law who doesn't know how to use craigslist. I'm hoping when I meet the father-in-law he'll be able to answer more questions.

But regarding a previous post, was that standard procedure for Sears to remove the tag/plate when selling it as used/refurbished?


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## JollyGreen67 (Nov 1, 2010)

By Sears removing tags, or not, is unknown to me, just words I heard through the Sears "grapevine" that it was a possibility when they sent the items to be refurbished.


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## Craftsman70 (Jul 31, 2012)

Well, I went and bought the saw last night. Turns out the tag wasn't removed just was scrapped up pretty bad and very hard to read. However, I did a bone head move when I got it home.

It was dark and I was in a rush. I tried cranking the bevel and it was hard to move. Before buying it I'd looked underneath and saw it was just all gummed up with sawdust and grease. Not realizing how thin the sheet metal was, I cranked harder and that bent in the side of the case. I'm really surprised how thin the metal is. It made me wonder how long it would stay straight after hammering it back into shape. I think I'll have to add some more metal inside that section to strengthen it. Anyway, I feel pretty dumb now.

I do have one more question, on the top of the cast iron before the blade, there are two screws set down about a 1/4 inch into the iron. Where those for some sort of add on?


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## History (Dec 22, 2012)

They are probably 45 and 90 degrees stops.


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

Thos screws in the top should be to adjust the trunions. They attach to the table but they are used to align the blade to the miter grooves. Get an owner's manual and check this out.


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## toolie (Mar 16, 2011)

unfortunately, grandpa is dead wrong. the two screws in the table top are to adjust the 90 and 45 degree bevel stops. i have two of these emerson built TSs and i backed them out so they are useless on the ridgid. my older c-man had stop collars on the bevel adjusting rod. i removed those entirely as i had no intention of employing the saw's stops. i find they can too easily get clogged with sawdust which can throw off the settings.

the trunions are attached to the underside of the table with 6 bolts; 3 up front by the operator and 3 at the rear. read the owners manual regarding adjusting the trunions. it's not difficult, provided the directions are followed. i'd suggest familiarizing yourself with that portion of the ridgid ts2412 OM i linked in the first reply to this thread. those instructions will work for the referenced saw.

FWIW, the bevel hand wheel has to really be cranked to bend the side of the saw cabinet. there is a bevel locking nut on the front of the saw cabinet above the elevation hand wheel. my guess is that it might not have been sufficiently loosened. when i first got my ridgid 2412, i bent that bolt when i tried to bevel the blade and neglected to loosen the bolt. ridgid sent me a replacement bolt and i've never forgotten since.

good luck with your new saw. it's a good starter saw and is cared for properly, will provide many years of service. as i noted earlier, i like those saws so much i did the unimaginable and kept them over a unisaw.


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## SamuraiSaw (Jan 8, 2013)

toolie is correct…..........

I backed mine out some, but perhaps not as far as he did. I didn't want to allow the mechanism to go too far. But I didn't trust the stops, too much chance for error. Get a digital gauge to set the blade angle.


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

I stand corrected.


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## JamesAustin (Sep 10, 2009)

If by chance you did not get an owners manual with the saw, you can contact Emerson Electric and they will provide one, free of charge.
Parts should be readily available through Sears or Emerson.
The fence looks to be the "aftermarket" fence that Sears sold to upgrade the tablesaws.
These benefit greatly from a linkbelt and some machined pulleys.

Emerson no longer makes Sears saws, the ones after about 2005 have been provided by Ryobi.


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## Craftsman70 (Jul 31, 2012)

Well, I was able to get a good view of the model number in the light today. Turns out its not a 113.xxxxxx. The model number is 315.228310. So, is this still an Emerson built saw? Was it a good choice, or would a 113. have been better?


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## IrreverentJack (Aug 13, 2010)

The 315 prefix means it was manufactured for Sears by Ryobi. The table looks similar to my 113- . It's possible that it's a clone or at least shares parts with the Emerson(113). I believe it is made in Taiwan. -Jack


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## Craftsman70 (Jul 31, 2012)

Yes, looking through the manuals it is nearly identical to some of the 113's and the TS2412. Hopefully, it was cloned and the design is still a good one. Although, they did make the sheet metal base very thin.


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## JamesAustin (Sep 10, 2009)

The Emerson model, and early Ryobi, and early Ridgid were made from the same blueprint. The Emerson and the early Ridgid were made from same tools, until Sears found out and sued Emerson, because Sears had payed for the tooling.
After that , the Ridgid and the Ryobi both came from China, but from different factories.

I worked for Sears for almost 20 years, and a close friend worked for Emerson as the liaison to Sears until they switched to Ryobi, and he lost his job.


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## Craftsman70 (Jul 31, 2012)

@James Austin, thanks I've always wondered what all the falling out was about between those companies. Any guestimates on the age of the 315.228310 model line. The guy I bought it from wouldn't get specific and 'suggested' maybe 5 years old. I think he was making that up. I'm guessing 10 years old.


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## toolie (Mar 16, 2011)

probably a little older than 10 years (the date on the cover of the linked OM is '98), but not much older. here's the OM from the sears site for that model number:

http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/L9080011.pdf

that's a good little saw. it's design is almost identical to the ridgid ts 2412/2424/3612 series of TSs and almost all of the parts should be interchangeable. one of the nicest features of it's fence, besides the integrated t-tracks, is that the front and rear rails can be slid to the right for increased rip capacity. it renders the tape on the front rail useless, but that can be easily replaced. it probably rips 24" to the right of the blade now. that could be increased to 30" and perhaps 36" at almost no additional cost. the left extension wing doesn't need to be supported by the rails. keep an eye out on ebay for another splitter/blade guard assembly. i have a second that i removed the blade guard from so i could use a splitter on thin rips where the blade guard would interfere with the cut.

if mobility is desired, and you can find a herc-u-lift plus (ac9950) on ebay (ridgid stopped making them about 7 years ago), it'll bolt right to that leg set and is one of the best open leg stand mobile bases ever made.

http://www.ridgidparts.com/accessories/woodacc.phtml (last item on the page)

here's a CL ad for one:

http://ocala.craigslist.org/tls/3652721229.html

the one humble suggestion i'd offer is to read the OM before mucking about with the saw. i only scanned my 2412 OM and could have avoided a few problems and mistakes if i'd read it a bit more thoroughly. hope your's performs as well for you as mine do for me.


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## Craftsman70 (Jul 31, 2012)

I took it all apart tonight and am amazed at how buckled the sheet metal is. Those cases are very flimsy. Here is a look:









I tried to circle all the buckled areas in red.

Another question: What is the best way to deal with the rust on the bevel and height adjustment rods? Some parts I'd sand and then paint, but those are normally left bare. Would you just sand and oil? Also what about about using evapo-rust on those parts and the cast iron? Oh, and should I replace the bearings while its apart? How difficult is that? I now w/ bigger saws you may need a press and a bearing puller (which I don't have). Wondering if its easier on this saw.


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## Craftsman70 (Jul 31, 2012)

Another shot of how out of square the base is:


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

I don't know what the rest would do but I would try to beaf the cabinet up with some angle iron. It would take much to make it a LOT stronger and square.


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## kdc68 (Mar 2, 2012)

*Grandpa*...maybe you were thinking of this model..my old Craftsman 113.226880 10" Direct Drive…had 4 hex screws on the cast iron top to adjust the trunnion….I don't own it anymore, but I have a photo. Bought new in 1989

*Toolie*...you can add this to your fact list for anyone else inquiring older 10" Craftsman …model 113.226880 had the webbed cast iron extensions and model 113.298090 had stamped steel and both had 4 hex screws in the cast iron top for trunnion adjustment…circa 1989


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## Knothead62 (Apr 17, 2010)

Caution- are parts still available for it? Sears stocks parts in anticipation of use for a number of years then, when they run out, you have a useless TS.


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## Craftsman70 (Jul 31, 2012)

Knothead62, I bought the saw so now I'm dealing with it. I have found the sheetmetal case/base available from parts places but I figure the replacement is going to be just as flimsy as the original.


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## toolie (Mar 16, 2011)

*kdc68*........thanks for that piece of information, but my comments were focused on the more popular belt drive 113 series TSs. i'd be interested why anyone would prefer a CI direct drive unit to a belt drive unit, besides saving a little space.


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## IrreverentJack (Aug 13, 2010)

Craftsman, If you think it is too weakened I'd reinforce it with bed rail outside the lower edges. Drill the holes for the stand and have it tacked with a welder. IMO- I think it will be fine if you just hammer it flat and bolt it to the stand and table. Put your money in new blades and other upgrades. -Jack


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## mikema (Apr 27, 2011)

Toolie, my only thought to your question is that both Craftsman and Delta ran a line of cast iron top contractor saws with direct drive arbors, rather then the traditional belt drive, likely to bring down the cost of the saw. I have often wondered if these were the precursor to what we now know as a bench top or jobsite saw.

Looking at those pictures, it makes me wonder if the saw was tipped on its side or if something bumped into it hard, as it looks like the top may have racked.


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## Craftsman70 (Jul 31, 2012)

Looking at it closely the cabinet only has three bolts that hold it to the cast iron. I think one of those bolts probably vibrated out long ago and another was in place on the table but pulled from the case when I move the bevel. I think it was carried in and out of a shed/garage each time it was used and that put some stress on it. So the case probably got racked while carrying it and only two of the three bolts were holding it to the cast iron.










I am going to reinforce the top of the case with angle iron and see if I can find a way to provide more than three mounting bolts. * IrreverantJack* - I'll look for some old bed rail, that is a good idea. If I read that right, you felt reinforce at the bottom and I was thinking it needs the reinforcing at the top where the three mounting holes are.


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## toolie (Mar 16, 2011)

is this squaring of the cabinet really necessary? the trunions hang from the CI table. assuming that the table is still square and flat, i believe all the cabinet does is hold up the table. and i don't think there's any way a stamped steel cabinet is going to materially alter the flatness of the CI top. when i cobbled together my 10" c-man, i bought a saw just for the cabinet and dropped in a table and trunnion set up i got elsewhere. just hate to see effort expended for no functional payback.


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## Craftsman70 (Jul 31, 2012)

toolie, I appreciate the sanity check and I agree squaring it up isn't that important. I just want to put something near the bevel know so it doesn't pull the case in again.


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

I recently acquired a 315. C'man TS. The cabinet is mangled/misshaped just as yours is. Thankfully, I only bought the saw for it's 1-3/4 HP motor & CI extension tables. Good to know that the cabinet "re-design" won't adversely effect overall performance, for when I sell it or part it out.


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## IrreverentJack (Aug 13, 2010)

My 113. has three bolts holding the top too, but the sheet metal is probably sturdier. A bed rail frame around each side shouldn't set you back too much especially if you have a friend with a mig. It would suck to have it turn into an accordian when you are cutting sheet stock. I put old bike inner tube between the top and the stand like gaskets. I think it makes the saw a lot quieter. -Jack


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## kdc68 (Mar 2, 2012)

*Toolie*

*thanks for that piece of information, but my comments were focused on the more popular belt drive 113 series TSs. i'd be interested why anyone would prefer a CI direct drive unit to a belt drive unit, besides saving a little space*.

I made my post above because of the suggestion Grandpa made about the two bolts in the CI top for trunnion adjustment. I thought maybe he was thinking of the two models numbers I gave in my reply. 
To answer your question about preference of a direct drive over belt drive. For me it wasn't about preference, but a desire to set up a little shop. I just graduated college and got my own place with a garage. I couldn't wait to go out and buy a saw. It caught my eye in Sears and with no prior knowledge of what other options were available, I bought it in anticapation to start building things. Turns out it was a great little saw for over 20 years. I gave it hell and it never gave me any issues until a couple of years ago. The arbor runout was getting bad and the fence was driving me nuts. I sold it to someone that planned on rebuilding/replacing the motor and replacing the fence with an aftermarket. I could have (maybe) done all that but I wanted something different…It was very reliable and for my first power tool purchase I never regretted it


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## gaucho10 (Jan 7, 2018)

I know that this is an old post but I guess this is the right place to ask the question. I have this Craftsman 113.298762 model and both handwheels have cracked many years ago. I think it is time to replace them. I was just wondering if there is a cheaper place to buy them aside from Sears. Several years ago they wanted ~$50.00 each. Today I found one for $32.36 +SH. Are there any places that sell used parts for tis machine? Thanks in advance.


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## HerbC (Jul 28, 2010)

Grizzly.com has a large selection of replacement handwheels and their prices are generally pretty good.


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## gaucho10 (Jan 7, 2018)

Thanks Herb, I will check them out.


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