# Saving A Jet JWP-15CS From Dump



## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*Saved For The Day*

I found this Jet planer on craigslist for $200, with the only picture available was the Jet badge of model number. I emailed the person about it and asking for a couple more pictures. The reply was sad. This planer stood outside for 2 years out in the elements in Northern California, and the rust showed it to be true. Here are the pictures sent to me that first day:


















2 weeks went by, thinking someone has surely claimed this for the bargain price tag while I was too busy and weather delayed my own attempts to claim it (driving over Sierra Mountain range during snow fall is not worth any machine). But, nope. No one has shown interest: no phone calls nor emails to the seller. I requested price to be dropped to $100, and he said yes. I did the 2 hour drive on a Tuesday to pick it up in the only way I could: my dodge 1500 pickup (no trailer). Met the gentleman at a house outside of Grass Valley (20 acres, beautiful, but empty house). Out under a big tree, stood this planer in the grass along with a stove and refrigerator. I asked what happened. He told me his brother was renting this house for 10+ years but had to move. It was a rush move so did not have time to take the heavy stuff. Everything was tossed into a trailer from the house and offloaded 200 feet away under this tree. The guy then told me, good thing I showed up because he was about to call the dump truck to come take everything to the dump (this was after I handed him the $100, but oh well). We proceeded to load this planer into my truck. 2 hours later of caveman physics by two guys, it laid in my pickup bed. I now know what 500lbs feels like. Here is the picture of my late night arrival back in Reno:









Knowing I would not have help for a number of days to off load this planer, I put the truck in the garage. Next day, I asked a friend who works at a industrial lift company for assistance and he sent over the manual hand-cranked lift, as we both were a little skittish of running a warehouse 4,000lb forklift on this Sunday. I am no industrial material handling specialist so this COULD of been done much better, but I made due with my caveman intellect:









So now this $100 Jet JWP-15CS that was 1 hour away from being dumped, sits safely at home in my garage. I started this blog entry as the next phase will soon begin: tear down, anti-rust, etc.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

Holbs said:


> *Saved For The Day*
> 
> I found this Jet planer on craigslist for $200, with the only picture available was the Jet badge of model number. I emailed the person about it and asking for a couple more pictures. The reply was sad. This planer stood outside for 2 years out in the elements in Northern California, and the rust showed it to be true. Here are the pictures sent to me that first day:
> 
> ...


Hell yeah.


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

Holbs said:


> *Saved For The Day*
> 
> I found this Jet planer on craigslist for $200, with the only picture available was the Jet badge of model number. I emailed the person about it and asking for a couple more pictures. The reply was sad. This planer stood outside for 2 years out in the elements in Northern California, and the rust showed it to be true. Here are the pictures sent to me that first day:
> 
> ...


Looks like a case of sweat equity….
Being worth the effort.
Good luck with the rehab!!!


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Saved For The Day*
> 
> I found this Jet planer on craigslist for $200, with the only picture available was the Jet badge of model number. I emailed the person about it and asking for a couple more pictures. The reply was sad. This planer stood outside for 2 years out in the elements in Northern California, and the rust showed it to be true. Here are the pictures sent to me that first day:
> 
> ...


time to research parts, tear down methods, serious rust removal methods (I did remove rust off my 6" Rockwell jointer bed and tear down, but that was easy). Who knows, I see another forum post today about same Jet with helical cutter head as an option, or the quick change blade option. Good things down the road. 
Can anyone comment on having 2 planers as a good thing, in the work shop? This Jet will eventually replace my Rigid 4331 lunchbox planer.


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## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Saved For The Day*
> 
> I found this Jet planer on craigslist for $200, with the only picture available was the Jet badge of model number. I emailed the person about it and asking for a couple more pictures. The reply was sad. This planer stood outside for 2 years out in the elements in Northern California, and the rust showed it to be true. Here are the pictures sent to me that first day:
> 
> ...


I dont care that it was sitting out in the grass …. For a hundred bucks, you STILL SUCK !


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## DonBroussard (Mar 27, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Saved For The Day*
> 
> I found this Jet planer on craigslist for $200, with the only picture available was the Jet badge of model number. I emailed the person about it and asking for a couple more pictures. The reply was sad. This planer stood outside for 2 years out in the elements in Northern California, and the rust showed it to be true. Here are the pictures sent to me that first day:
> 
> ...


I think a lot of us would have picked it up for the $100 you-suck price too. I know I would have. Nice find and looking forward to the rehab blog.


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## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

Holbs said:


> *Saved For The Day*
> 
> I found this Jet planer on craigslist for $200, with the only picture available was the Jet badge of model number. I emailed the person about it and asking for a couple more pictures. The reply was sad. This planer stood outside for 2 years out in the elements in Northern California, and the rust showed it to be true. Here are the pictures sent to me that first day:
> 
> ...


Great purchase and salvation on this tool


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Holbs said:


> *Saved For The Day*
> 
> I found this Jet planer on craigslist for $200, with the only picture available was the Jet badge of model number. I emailed the person about it and asking for a couple more pictures. The reply was sad. This planer stood outside for 2 years out in the elements in Northern California, and the rust showed it to be true. Here are the pictures sent to me that first day:
> 
> ...


Git er done!!


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## davidroberts (Nov 8, 2008)

Holbs said:


> *Saved For The Day*
> 
> I found this Jet planer on craigslist for $200, with the only picture available was the Jet badge of model number. I emailed the person about it and asking for a couple more pictures. The reply was sad. This planer stood outside for 2 years out in the elements in Northern California, and the rust showed it to be true. Here are the pictures sent to me that first day:
> 
> ...


If it weren't for caveman intellect, I'd have no intellect at all. If a caveman can't do it, it's not worth doin'. Ok, enough caveman fun. Great finds are still out there, and fall in your lap when least expected. Not just anybody has the daring to tear down a piece of machinery, clean it up, and put it back together. Your machine model was born to late to show up on the OWWM site, but it is still the best source of information on the web, if not inspiration, for rehabbing woodworking machinery. Good show, and good luck.


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## MerylL (Aug 24, 2014)

Holbs said:


> *Saved For The Day*
> 
> I found this Jet planer on craigslist for $200, with the only picture available was the Jet badge of model number. I emailed the person about it and asking for a couple more pictures. The reply was sad. This planer stood outside for 2 years out in the elements in Northern California, and the rust showed it to be true. Here are the pictures sent to me that first day:
> 
> ...


DOH! Never mind. Deleting.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*disassembly day 1 & 2*

This actually might turn into something a bit more than I can chew. Some serious rust issues going on. I now remember why I choose wood working over auto-mechanic for a hobby. This was nearly identical to taking a cylinder head apart! But it was surely required as you can see in the following pictures: rust, rust, rust. I have some serious research to do in the rust removal department in the coming weeks. Some questions someone can answer possibly before I go too much further:
the 220v 3HP motor has rust all along the outside housing. Salvageable? Somehow can be rebuilt and turn serviceable? I'm skittish to even look at the price tag of a JET 3HP motor.









The metal "keys" seem to be unmovable. At least, I did not try very hard for fear of damage. Is there a trick or special tool to remove these keys so I can get the blocks off?









The column support risers are not 100% disassembled. The bearings for the chain sprockets seem fine. There is a retaining ring on the bottom (I have no retaining ring tool, yet!). I would like to totally disassemble these columns, but unsure how to proceed. At $21 a pop from Jet, I think I can keep these existing bearings.









I know I need a bearing pulley tool to get off cutter head bearings. I'll see about getting one this coming week. And also, finding a friendly mechanic shop to re-install new bearings ($18×2 from Jet). During research of de-install and re-install of cutter head, good time to put fresh bearings in anyways.









Anyone know how to remove the inner most roller? I had to gently spread the forks out to get #1 and #2 roller out. But I fear spreading any further due to damage.









The Jet power switch box looks brand new. Thankfully, it was sealed up really good.









I'll have to buy a new handle. This one is gone.









I'll also have to get a couple NEW Jet ID labels.









And the rest of the pictures.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

Holbs said:


> *disassembly day 1 & 2*
> 
> This actually might turn into something a bit more than I can chew. Some serious rust issues going on. I now remember why I choose wood working over auto-mechanic for a hobby. This was nearly identical to taking a cylinder head apart! But it was surely required as you can see in the following pictures: rust, rust, rust. I have some serious research to do in the rust removal department in the coming weeks. Some questions someone can answer possibly before I go too much further:
> the 220v 3HP motor has rust all along the outside housing. Salvageable? Somehow can be rebuilt and turn serviceable? I'm skittish to even look at the price tag of a JET 3HP motor.
> ...


The handle might polish up on a buffing wheel.

The Motor may need new bearings at worse. Maybe try pulling it apart and cleaning it and giving it a test run.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *disassembly day 1 & 2*
> 
> This actually might turn into something a bit more than I can chew. Some serious rust issues going on. I now remember why I choose wood working over auto-mechanic for a hobby. This was nearly identical to taking a cylinder head apart! But it was surely required as you can see in the following pictures: rust, rust, rust. I have some serious research to do in the rust removal department in the coming weeks. Some questions someone can answer possibly before I go too much further:
> the 220v 3HP motor has rust all along the outside housing. Salvageable? Somehow can be rebuilt and turn serviceable? I'm skittish to even look at the price tag of a JET 3HP motor.
> ...


The circular handle wheel is ok (yes, i'll look into polishing it). But there is suppose to be a 4" horizontal handle attached to the wheel that was broken off that needs replacing (you can see the broken part on the handle).

motor & bearings. will look into that. any "SAFE" way to test a possible damaged motor? wouldn't want to cause a fire or anything in my garage


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## GregInMaryland (Mar 11, 2010)

Holbs said:


> *disassembly day 1 & 2*
> 
> This actually might turn into something a bit more than I can chew. Some serious rust issues going on. I now remember why I choose wood working over auto-mechanic for a hobby. This was nearly identical to taking a cylinder head apart! But it was surely required as you can see in the following pictures: rust, rust, rust. I have some serious research to do in the rust removal department in the coming weeks. Some questions someone can answer possibly before I go too much further:
> the 220v 3HP motor has rust all along the outside housing. Salvageable? Somehow can be rebuilt and turn serviceable? I'm skittish to even look at the price tag of a JET 3HP motor.
> ...


For rust removal investigate Evaporust and electrolysis. Both will take all that rust off, though there will be some elbow grease needed to make the parts shiny.

Good luck, oh and please go back to where you purchased the planer and smack them for me. Hard. Really hard. I really think that is the only solution for an idiot who would let a piece of equipment like that just rust away exposed to the weather.

Greg


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *disassembly day 1 & 2*
> 
> This actually might turn into something a bit more than I can chew. Some serious rust issues going on. I now remember why I choose wood working over auto-mechanic for a hobby. This was nearly identical to taking a cylinder head apart! But it was surely required as you can see in the following pictures: rust, rust, rust. I have some serious research to do in the rust removal department in the coming weeks. Some questions someone can answer possibly before I go too much further:
> the 220v 3HP motor has rust all along the outside housing. Salvageable? Somehow can be rebuilt and turn serviceable? I'm skittish to even look at the price tag of a JET 3HP motor.
> ...


Watching youtube vids for electrolysis now. 



 pretty good for larger sized items.
Evaporust… yep. Will hit some auto stores tomorrow to see if in stock (AC delco should have it)


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## joey502 (Mar 30, 2014)

Holbs said:


> *disassembly day 1 & 2*
> 
> This actually might turn into something a bit more than I can chew. Some serious rust issues going on. I now remember why I choose wood working over auto-mechanic for a hobby. This was nearly identical to taking a cylinder head apart! But it was surely required as you can see in the following pictures: rust, rust, rust. I have some serious research to do in the rust removal department in the coming weeks. Some questions someone can answer possibly before I go too much further:
> the 220v 3HP motor has rust all along the outside housing. Salvageable? Somehow can be rebuilt and turn serviceable? I'm skittish to even look at the price tag of a JET 3HP motor.
> ...


I do not think it looks bad for the 2 years outside. It is going to be some work but you should end up with a nice machine afterward.


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## intelligen (Dec 28, 2009)

Holbs said:


> *disassembly day 1 & 2*
> 
> This actually might turn into something a bit more than I can chew. Some serious rust issues going on. I now remember why I choose wood working over auto-mechanic for a hobby. This was nearly identical to taking a cylinder head apart! But it was surely required as you can see in the following pictures: rust, rust, rust. I have some serious research to do in the rust removal department in the coming weeks. Some questions someone can answer possibly before I go too much further:
> the 220v 3HP motor has rust all along the outside housing. Salvageable? Somehow can be rebuilt and turn serviceable? I'm skittish to even look at the price tag of a JET 3HP motor.
> ...


To free up any rusted-together parts, spray them down really well with PB Blaster and let it penetrate for a while. It might take a couple applications. If you aren't familiar with it, it should be near the WD-40 at Walmart or any auto parts store.


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## Ironwing_1 (Jan 17, 2013)

Holbs said:


> *disassembly day 1 & 2*
> 
> This actually might turn into something a bit more than I can chew. Some serious rust issues going on. I now remember why I choose wood working over auto-mechanic for a hobby. This was nearly identical to taking a cylinder head apart! But it was surely required as you can see in the following pictures: rust, rust, rust. I have some serious research to do in the rust removal department in the coming weeks. Some questions someone can answer possibly before I go too much further:
> the 220v 3HP motor has rust all along the outside housing. Salvageable? Somehow can be rebuilt and turn serviceable? I'm skittish to even look at the price tag of a JET 3HP motor.
> ...


That's a great score…hope you can get it running. For the price you paid, it should definitely be worth it even if you have to buy some extra parts.

If you have a harbor fright near you, get yourself familiar with their offerings if you're not already. As the saying goes, don't trust your life or livelihood to them, but for one-off projects like this, they've got a plethora of useful tools: gear & bearing pullers, mallets you don't mind destroying, etc. Some of them also stock 1-gallon jugs of evapo-rust.

For the motor: Does it spin smoothly? If so, there's a chance all the damage is superficial, go ahead and fire it up. Bolt/clamp it to a 2×8 and weight it down to keep it from moving about. Get/make yourself a 220v extension cord, stand back (or put it in your driveway), and see what happens. It should immediately spin up, then click as the governor kicks in. If it does anything else, unplug immediately and seek professional help. Be ready to unplug it and keep it away from puddles of water, gasoline etc, and its not likely to damage anything other than itself, worst case.

Does it spin, but rough? May need new bearings. They're usually not expensive or hard to find. You'll want to yank the pulley and fan, open up the motor and replace the bearings. Once they're replaced, it should spin smoothly and you can test it out.

If it doesn't spin at all, the armatures may be all rusted and you'll probably want to get a new motor. I hear there are places that repair motors and might be able to help if it's not completely destroyed, but I have no experience with that sort of service.

For the metal keys: +1 on the PB B'laster. Also consider applying heat (via propane torch) to get the arbors to expand and free up the keys. Try to avoid using the PB B'laster and torch at the same time.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

Holbs said:


> *disassembly day 1 & 2*
> 
> This actually might turn into something a bit more than I can chew. Some serious rust issues going on. I now remember why I choose wood working over auto-mechanic for a hobby. This was nearly identical to taking a cylinder head apart! But it was surely required as you can see in the following pictures: rust, rust, rust. I have some serious research to do in the rust removal department in the coming weeks. Some questions someone can answer possibly before I go too much further:
> the 220v 3HP motor has rust all along the outside housing. Salvageable? Somehow can be rebuilt and turn serviceable? I'm skittish to even look at the price tag of a JET 3HP motor.
> ...


I used 4 rebars one in each corner and 2 amp setting overnight.

As far as the bearings, I've owned machinery for years and never had to replace a bearing in anything. That being said, I guess since you've got it apart do it, but not for $21 a pop. You should be able to get bearings a lot cheaper. There should be a number on the bearing you can match if not you can match the OD and ID. Check out Big Bearing Store.

I wouldn't buy a new wheel before trying to refurb it. Maybe some 320 grit and wd40 followed by a buffing wheel would be worth a try, no?


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## canadianchips (Mar 12, 2010)

Holbs said:


> *disassembly day 1 & 2*
> 
> This actually might turn into something a bit more than I can chew. Some serious rust issues going on. I now remember why I choose wood working over auto-mechanic for a hobby. This was nearly identical to taking a cylinder head apart! But it was surely required as you can see in the following pictures: rust, rust, rust. I have some serious research to do in the rust removal department in the coming weeks. Some questions someone can answer possibly before I go too much further:
> the 220v 3HP motor has rust all along the outside housing. Salvageable? Somehow can be rebuilt and turn serviceable? I'm skittish to even look at the price tag of a JET 3HP motor.
> ...


VERY NICE FIND.
So far you have some TIME and a few dollars in bearings into this.
After you tear it down and rebuild it you will appreciate the machine and look after it even better.
I have seen motors in worse enviroments and they are still running.
Turn it by hand before pluggin it in.
UNless it has been sitting under water, chances are the inner windings are okay.
I am getting excited to see this project when you are done.
(If it were me I would take it all apart , put it back together and have very few pieces LEFT OVER, thats how I roll) LOL


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Holbs said:


> *disassembly day 1 & 2*
> 
> This actually might turn into something a bit more than I can chew. Some serious rust issues going on. I now remember why I choose wood working over auto-mechanic for a hobby. This was nearly identical to taking a cylinder head apart! But it was surely required as you can see in the following pictures: rust, rust, rust. I have some serious research to do in the rust removal department in the coming weeks. Some questions someone can answer possibly before I go too much further:
> the 220v 3HP motor has rust all along the outside housing. Salvageable? Somehow can be rebuilt and turn serviceable? I'm skittish to even look at the price tag of a JET 3HP motor.
> ...


Wow! This is like restoring an old motorcycle or car. One heck of project, for sure. Good luck with it.


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## johnstoneb (Jun 14, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *disassembly day 1 & 2*
> 
> This actually might turn into something a bit more than I can chew. Some serious rust issues going on. I now remember why I choose wood working over auto-mechanic for a hobby. This was nearly identical to taking a cylinder head apart! But it was surely required as you can see in the following pictures: rust, rust, rust. I have some serious research to do in the rust removal department in the coming weeks. Some questions someone can answer possibly before I go too much further:
> the 220v 3HP motor has rust all along the outside housing. Salvageable? Somehow can be rebuilt and turn serviceable? I'm skittish to even look at the price tag of a JET 3HP motor.
> ...


That doesn't look bad at all electrolysis or citric acid will take that rust right off. I would look at citric acid over electrolysis. The amount you will need to cover the parts. Citric acid will be much cheaper. There are a number of posts here that cover both electrolysis and citric acid.
That motor I would clean up the exterior blow the interior out and see if it won't run.


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## JulianLech (Jan 13, 2011)

Holbs said:


> *disassembly day 1 & 2*
> 
> This actually might turn into something a bit more than I can chew. Some serious rust issues going on. I now remember why I choose wood working over auto-mechanic for a hobby. This was nearly identical to taking a cylinder head apart! But it was surely required as you can see in the following pictures: rust, rust, rust. I have some serious research to do in the rust removal department in the coming weeks. Some questions someone can answer possibly before I go too much further:
> the 220v 3HP motor has rust all along the outside housing. Salvageable? Somehow can be rebuilt and turn serviceable? I'm skittish to even look at the price tag of a JET 3HP motor.
> ...


I would definitely spend the time to get this planer back into running condition. FYI; you can get bearings and other industrial parts from companies such as Kaman, McMaster-Carr, Grainger and many others. If you find one locally you won't have to pay for shipping. Buying parts direct from Jet (manufacturers) often cost 2X as much.
Good luck.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Holbs said:


> *disassembly day 1 & 2*
> 
> This actually might turn into something a bit more than I can chew. Some serious rust issues going on. I now remember why I choose wood working over auto-mechanic for a hobby. This was nearly identical to taking a cylinder head apart! But it was surely required as you can see in the following pictures: rust, rust, rust. I have some serious research to do in the rust removal department in the coming weeks. Some questions someone can answer possibly before I go too much further:
> the 220v 3HP motor has rust all along the outside housing. Salvageable? Somehow can be rebuilt and turn serviceable? I'm skittish to even look at the price tag of a JET 3HP motor.
> ...


That rust on the motor housing doesn't concern me at all IF the motor spins freely. The guys on the Forestry Forum swear by Blue Creeper for freeing up stuck/rusted parts. You will have a great machine when you are done and you will know it inside out. I still think you did well. I would just sand that rust on the table with a ROS and some WD40 followed by paste wax. It should clean up fine.


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## Bigrock (Apr 16, 2010)

Holbs said:


> *disassembly day 1 & 2*
> 
> This actually might turn into something a bit more than I can chew. Some serious rust issues going on. I now remember why I choose wood working over auto-mechanic for a hobby. This was nearly identical to taking a cylinder head apart! But it was surely required as you can see in the following pictures: rust, rust, rust. I have some serious research to do in the rust removal department in the coming weeks. Some questions someone can answer possibly before I go too much further:
> the 220v 3HP motor has rust all along the outside housing. Salvageable? Somehow can be rebuilt and turn serviceable? I'm skittish to even look at the price tag of a JET 3HP motor.
> ...


Hi:
I would like to add one item to your list of parts. Change the cutter head with a helical head cutter. Yes, they are costly, but look at Grizzly web site and they may be on sale and get the bearings also. Then you will have a great machine. Yes, this project will take some time, but this is a very good machine.
If you are not sure about your motor skills, take to a local motor shop. They can repair it for a lot less than a new motor and it may only need new bearings. Tell them you have little money. Trade sweeping floors for the repair and see if they will work with you.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *disassembly day 1 & 2*
> 
> This actually might turn into something a bit more than I can chew. Some serious rust issues going on. I now remember why I choose wood working over auto-mechanic for a hobby. This was nearly identical to taking a cylinder head apart! But it was surely required as you can see in the following pictures: rust, rust, rust. I have some serious research to do in the rust removal department in the coming weeks. Some questions someone can answer possibly before I go too much further:
> the 220v 3HP motor has rust all along the outside housing. Salvageable? Somehow can be rebuilt and turn serviceable? I'm skittish to even look at the price tag of a JET 3HP motor.
> ...


bigrock… $800 for a helical cutter head is $700 more than what my wallet can allow for the moment, sadly  This project gives me a in depth understanding of how a planer operates. Just like when I tore apart my 6" Rockwell jointer. Example: my Rigid 4661 cutter head assembly moves up and down with the bottom table being static. Who knew that the big boy planers were opposite: cutter head assembly is static while the bottom table moves up and down


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## soob (Feb 3, 2015)

Holbs said:


> *disassembly day 1 & 2*
> 
> This actually might turn into something a bit more than I can chew. Some serious rust issues going on. I now remember why I choose wood working over auto-mechanic for a hobby. This was nearly identical to taking a cylinder head apart! But it was surely required as you can see in the following pictures: rust, rust, rust. I have some serious research to do in the rust removal department in the coming weeks. Some questions someone can answer possibly before I go too much further:
> the 220v 3HP motor has rust all along the outside housing. Salvageable? Somehow can be rebuilt and turn serviceable? I'm skittish to even look at the price tag of a JET 3HP motor.
> ...


For bearings try accurate bearings (go to the old working machines forum for info on how to contact them). They're cheap, will help you look up bearings, and ship (USPS for cost) really fast. What more could you ask for?

For the motor, if it turns freely it's probably fine. If there's a rough spot in the rotation it's probably a bearing that rusted where it settled. It will have to be replaced, but it's easy to do. Just don't break anything else in the motor when you take it apart! When you have it open check out the centrifugal switch to make sure it's not too corroded, clean all the contacts, take off the surface rust on everything, etc. Replace the bearings and it'll be fine.

Also for installing bearings, just get a socket that fits over the shaft and doesn't go past the inner race. Heat the bearing in the oven if you must, and tap it on with a mallet. That's how I've always done it and never had a problem. If your socket is too short, slip a box wrench in, or get a deep socket and cut it in half., drill it out, whatever. Sometimes you can use a pvc or metal pipe.


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## Quanter50 (Feb 11, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *disassembly day 1 & 2*
> 
> This actually might turn into something a bit more than I can chew. Some serious rust issues going on. I now remember why I choose wood working over auto-mechanic for a hobby. This was nearly identical to taking a cylinder head apart! But it was surely required as you can see in the following pictures: rust, rust, rust. I have some serious research to do in the rust removal department in the coming weeks. Some questions someone can answer possibly before I go too much further:
> the 220v 3HP motor has rust all along the outside housing. Salvageable? Somehow can be rebuilt and turn serviceable? I'm skittish to even look at the price tag of a JET 3HP motor.
> ...


I recently upgraded my early 90's pea green Grizzly G1021 Planer with a helical cutterhead. Then I planed a few of the 1" thick by 8" wide kiln dried white oak boards. It felt like it just did not have enough power so I looked on Craigslist for a 3HP motor. A guy not too far from me had a brand new still in the plastic Jet 3HP 220V single phase motor. I bought it and hoped it would fit. Turns out it is exavtly what I was looking for. Right shaft dia./length, shaft drilled on end for bolt, mounting holes correct, right wiring, etc. My planer works great now! Here is the Jet motor installed. Oh BTW, I gave $250 for it.


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## ic3ss (Oct 19, 2010)

Holbs said:


> *disassembly day 1 & 2*
> 
> This actually might turn into something a bit more than I can chew. Some serious rust issues going on. I now remember why I choose wood working over auto-mechanic for a hobby. This was nearly identical to taking a cylinder head apart! But it was surely required as you can see in the following pictures: rust, rust, rust. I have some serious research to do in the rust removal department in the coming weeks. Some questions someone can answer possibly before I go too much further:
> the 220v 3HP motor has rust all along the outside housing. Salvageable? Somehow can be rebuilt and turn serviceable? I'm skittish to even look at the price tag of a JET 3HP motor.
> ...


Take the motor to a motor shop. They'll put in new bearings if needed, inspect and test it for you and it won't cost you much. Cheap peace of mind when you put her back together and start it up for the first time.

Good luck!

Wayne


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## davidroberts (Nov 8, 2008)

Holbs said:


> *disassembly day 1 & 2*
> 
> This actually might turn into something a bit more than I can chew. Some serious rust issues going on. I now remember why I choose wood working over auto-mechanic for a hobby. This was nearly identical to taking a cylinder head apart! But it was surely required as you can see in the following pictures: rust, rust, rust. I have some serious research to do in the rust removal department in the coming weeks. Some questions someone can answer possibly before I go too much further:
> the 220v 3HP motor has rust all along the outside housing. Salvageable? Somehow can be rebuilt and turn serviceable? I'm skittish to even look at the price tag of a JET 3HP motor.
> ...


Harbor Freight and Home Deport carry Evaporust. So does Amazon. My guess is Lowes also. In fact most tool places, even Sears. It's ain't cheap, around $25 by the gallon. You can buy PB Blaster by the gallon also, usually at auto parts stores. You can't salvage all the chrome on the handle but you can clean it up and make it very usable. Some of my old machines haven't seen chrome since before war ration coupons. Accurate Bearings in Dallas should be on your speed dial. The motor is enclosed, and probably in not to bad a shape. Keep at it!


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*Electrolysis Attempt #1*

I picked up supplies monday after work for a quickie start at this first attempt. Home Depot has 12" and 24" 3/8 rebar at affordable price tags, bout some 12 gauge wire, a tub. I was unsure about laying this rusted Jet handle rod right on the bottom of the tub so used some scrap plywood to raise it up. Connected my negative battery charger lead right to the rod under the water and positive to the copper ring attached to the rods. Fully expecting a nuclear explosion in my garage, I plugged in my battery charger and turned it on to the 10 amp selection. Bubbles immediately started to arise from all 4 rebar rods and from the Jet handle rod. The battery charger looked to be hovering around 1 or 2 amps (can't exactly tell due to the dial not being specific under 10 amps). Let cook for 12 hours. Not too shabby of the end result, but I know can be done better. I forgot one thing: the battery terminal alligator clips are made out of copper. Oooops.




























Tonights attempt I used steel cable from exercise gym I have laying around to hold the 2nd rusted Jet handle rod up off the bottom of the tub. 3 gallons of water + 3 tablespoons of washing soda. This time, the battery charger is upto 5 or 6 amps. Will see what happens come morning.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

Holbs said:


> *Electrolysis Attempt #1*
> 
> I picked up supplies monday after work for a quickie start at this first attempt. Home Depot has 12" and 24" 3/8 rebar at affordable price tags, bout some 12 gauge wire, a tub. I was unsure about laying this rusted Jet handle rod right on the bottom of the tub so used some scrap plywood to raise it up. Connected my negative battery charger lead right to the rod under the water and positive to the copper ring attached to the rods. Fully expecting a nuclear explosion in my garage, I plugged in my battery charger and turned it on to the 10 amp selection. Bubbles immediately started to arise from all 4 rebar rods and from the Jet handle rod. The battery charger looked to be hovering around 1 or 2 amps (can't exactly tell due to the dial not being specific under 10 amps). Let cook for 12 hours. Not too shabby of the end result, but I know can be done better. I forgot one thing: the battery terminal alligator clips are made out of copper. Oooops.
> 
> ...


Kinda wondering what happens myself.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Electrolysis Attempt #1*
> 
> I picked up supplies monday after work for a quickie start at this first attempt. Home Depot has 12" and 24" 3/8 rebar at affordable price tags, bout some 12 gauge wire, a tub. I was unsure about laying this rusted Jet handle rod right on the bottom of the tub so used some scrap plywood to raise it up. Connected my negative battery charger lead right to the rod under the water and positive to the copper ring attached to the rods. Fully expecting a nuclear explosion in my garage, I plugged in my battery charger and turned it on to the 10 amp selection. Bubbles immediately started to arise from all 4 rebar rods and from the Jet handle rod. The battery charger looked to be hovering around 1 or 2 amps (can't exactly tell due to the dial not being specific under 10 amps). Let cook for 12 hours. Not too shabby of the end result, but I know can be done better. I forgot one thing: the battery terminal alligator clips are made out of copper. Oooops.
> 
> ...


I have some jack chain (used to hold light strips in warehouses and such). Was about to use them til I realized one roll was 'galvanized' and the other was 'zinc plated'. was unsure about using them so didnt. Tried to find metal coat hangars (steel? do not know what metal coat hangars are actually made of), but I have all plastic! Only thing I found was the steel cables used in my gym equipment.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

Holbs said:


> *Electrolysis Attempt #1*
> 
> I picked up supplies monday after work for a quickie start at this first attempt. Home Depot has 12" and 24" 3/8 rebar at affordable price tags, bout some 12 gauge wire, a tub. I was unsure about laying this rusted Jet handle rod right on the bottom of the tub so used some scrap plywood to raise it up. Connected my negative battery charger lead right to the rod under the water and positive to the copper ring attached to the rods. Fully expecting a nuclear explosion in my garage, I plugged in my battery charger and turned it on to the 10 amp selection. Bubbles immediately started to arise from all 4 rebar rods and from the Jet handle rod. The battery charger looked to be hovering around 1 or 2 amps (can't exactly tell due to the dial not being specific under 10 amps). Let cook for 12 hours. Not too shabby of the end result, but I know can be done better. I forgot one thing: the battery terminal alligator clips are made out of copper. Oooops.
> 
> ...


So it destroyed the copper clips? I get steel tie wire that doesn't have any kind of coating from electrical supply houses all the time. Places that deal in masonry supplies would definitely have many kings of uncoated tie wire.


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## taoist (Jul 31, 2011)

Holbs said:


> *Electrolysis Attempt #1*
> 
> I picked up supplies monday after work for a quickie start at this first attempt. Home Depot has 12" and 24" 3/8 rebar at affordable price tags, bout some 12 gauge wire, a tub. I was unsure about laying this rusted Jet handle rod right on the bottom of the tub so used some scrap plywood to raise it up. Connected my negative battery charger lead right to the rod under the water and positive to the copper ring attached to the rods. Fully expecting a nuclear explosion in my garage, I plugged in my battery charger and turned it on to the 10 amp selection. Bubbles immediately started to arise from all 4 rebar rods and from the Jet handle rod. The battery charger looked to be hovering around 1 or 2 amps (can't exactly tell due to the dial not being specific under 10 amps). Let cook for 12 hours. Not too shabby of the end result, but I know can be done better. I forgot one thing: the battery terminal alligator clips are made out of copper. Oooops.
> 
> ...


Go to a dollar store or just any cheap place and get a steel cookie sheet. Be sure to take a magnet so you can verify the steel content. I would cut off the rim, if you are using a 5 gal pail so you can curve it, and then place it in your water bath with the washing soda and connect your positive lead, from the battery charger to the cookie sheet. You will have much better results with the cookie sheet than with the rebar because of surface area.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Holbs said:


> *Electrolysis Attempt #1*
> 
> I picked up supplies monday after work for a quickie start at this first attempt. Home Depot has 12" and 24" 3/8 rebar at affordable price tags, bout some 12 gauge wire, a tub. I was unsure about laying this rusted Jet handle rod right on the bottom of the tub so used some scrap plywood to raise it up. Connected my negative battery charger lead right to the rod under the water and positive to the copper ring attached to the rods. Fully expecting a nuclear explosion in my garage, I plugged in my battery charger and turned it on to the 10 amp selection. Bubbles immediately started to arise from all 4 rebar rods and from the Jet handle rod. The battery charger looked to be hovering around 1 or 2 amps (can't exactly tell due to the dial not being specific under 10 amps). Let cook for 12 hours. Not too shabby of the end result, but I know can be done better. I forgot one thing: the battery terminal alligator clips are made out of copper. Oooops.
> 
> ...


Save yourself the trouble,this stuff works great.

http://www.amazon.com/Evapo-rust-Gallon-Original-Industrial-Strength/dp/B00HNTZFYM/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1426692041&sr=1-5&keywords=evapo+rust+gallon


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## Tim457 (Jan 11, 2013)

Holbs said:


> *Electrolysis Attempt #1*
> 
> I picked up supplies monday after work for a quickie start at this first attempt. Home Depot has 12" and 24" 3/8 rebar at affordable price tags, bout some 12 gauge wire, a tub. I was unsure about laying this rusted Jet handle rod right on the bottom of the tub so used some scrap plywood to raise it up. Connected my negative battery charger lead right to the rod under the water and positive to the copper ring attached to the rods. Fully expecting a nuclear explosion in my garage, I plugged in my battery charger and turned it on to the 10 amp selection. Bubbles immediately started to arise from all 4 rebar rods and from the Jet handle rod. The battery charger looked to be hovering around 1 or 2 amps (can't exactly tell due to the dial not being specific under 10 amps). Let cook for 12 hours. Not too shabby of the end result, but I know can be done better. I forgot one thing: the battery terminal alligator clips are made out of copper. Oooops.
> 
> ...





> Go to a dollar store or just any cheap place and get a steel cookie sheet. Be sure to take a magnet so you can verify the steel content. I would cut off the rim, if you are using a 5 gal pail so you can curve it, and then place it in your water bath with the washing soda and connect your positive lead, from the battery charger to the cookie sheet. You will have much better results with the cookie sheet than with the rebar because of surface area.
> 
> - taoist


Great tip. It's the surface area but specifically the line of sight from the cookie sheet to the piece you're de-rusting that makes the difference. By wrapping it around, you get more direct line of sight to more of the piece.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Electrolysis Attempt #1*
> 
> I picked up supplies monday after work for a quickie start at this first attempt. Home Depot has 12" and 24" 3/8 rebar at affordable price tags, bout some 12 gauge wire, a tub. I was unsure about laying this rusted Jet handle rod right on the bottom of the tub so used some scrap plywood to raise it up. Connected my negative battery charger lead right to the rod under the water and positive to the copper ring attached to the rods. Fully expecting a nuclear explosion in my garage, I plugged in my battery charger and turned it on to the 10 amp selection. Bubbles immediately started to arise from all 4 rebar rods and from the Jet handle rod. The battery charger looked to be hovering around 1 or 2 amps (can't exactly tell due to the dial not being specific under 10 amps). Let cook for 12 hours. Not too shabby of the end result, but I know can be done better. I forgot one thing: the battery terminal alligator clips are made out of copper. Oooops.
> 
> ...


Couple of thoughts..

First off, with that setup and those small pieces you are doing, 12 hours is about 11 hours too long! I've had way more rusty stuff completely cleaned in a half hour or so. I bet you will find little difference between cooking them for an hour or twelve.

Secondly, electrolysis will convert the red rust (ferrous oxide) back into a black rust that is composed mostly of magnetite. You need to scrub your parts after removing from electrolysis to get rid of that. A wire brush, scotch-brite pad or whatever. Once removed, you will have a nice shiny part. It doesn't look like you removed it on the parts shown in your first picture.

Also, for many parts, mostly cast iron, once you take it out of the bath and remove the black stuff, sometimes you will see surface rust start to form… sometimes right before your eyes just minutes after removal. You need to keep that from happening with the bare metal, so dry it completely and then use something to protect it. If it's going to be painted, give it a shot of primer. If it's going to be left shiny, give it some wax or a light coat of oil. I like hitting it with a dilute solution of phosphoric acid as well (gets rid of any surface rust that may have already formed and etches the metal slightly in preparation for paint).

Cheers,
Brad

Oh, and don't worry about the copper battery clips.. they will not be harmed, although they will come out a little slimy  I like to get some copper wire and hook it to the part, extending up above the electrolyte so I don't have to deal with cleaning off the clip.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Electrolysis Attempt #1*
> 
> I picked up supplies monday after work for a quickie start at this first attempt. Home Depot has 12" and 24" 3/8 rebar at affordable price tags, bout some 12 gauge wire, a tub. I was unsure about laying this rusted Jet handle rod right on the bottom of the tub so used some scrap plywood to raise it up. Connected my negative battery charger lead right to the rod under the water and positive to the copper ring attached to the rods. Fully expecting a nuclear explosion in my garage, I plugged in my battery charger and turned it on to the 10 amp selection. Bubbles immediately started to arise from all 4 rebar rods and from the Jet handle rod. The battery charger looked to be hovering around 1 or 2 amps (can't exactly tell due to the dial not being specific under 10 amps). Let cook for 12 hours. Not too shabby of the end result, but I know can be done better. I forgot one thing: the battery terminal alligator clips are made out of copper. Oooops.
> 
> ...


These were first 2 attempts with the Jet handle bars that were "somewhat" rusted. 12" or so long. After 12 hours (overnight, basically), the first attempt connecting the negative brass battery clamp to the rod and second attempt of using steel cable to hang the 2nd rod… both came out the same: rust gone with magnetite still there (yet to be rubbed off). So, 100% good results.
Now that I have experience, I'll get a larger plastic tub to fit the kickback rollers and other rollers (much more rusted) and fine tune my setup into something more… classy 

Jim… I did buy a gallon of EvapoRust for the small parts: bolts, washers, springs, etc. Started Monday evening with that, and before bed mixed with wooden spoon (unsure if that helps or not but doesnt hurt). Forgot to take them out Tuesday. Been sitting in the liquid for 48 hours. They look new ! Well, better than what they were  Do I pour this liquid back into the gallon container… as in, re-useable ? Possibly strain with coffee filter? Or ditch it?

MrUnix… so, ok to use copper wire (much more easier to get since i have a bunch of 12/2 laying around) to hook the part in the middle? I'll do that more often as it just seems…easier than the stiff steel cable i'm using from gym equipment.

taoist… i really like the idea of that steel pail bucket or cookie sheet. will keep in mind for future projects in this


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Electrolysis Attempt #1*
> 
> I picked up supplies monday after work for a quickie start at this first attempt. Home Depot has 12" and 24" 3/8 rebar at affordable price tags, bout some 12 gauge wire, a tub. I was unsure about laying this rusted Jet handle rod right on the bottom of the tub so used some scrap plywood to raise it up. Connected my negative battery charger lead right to the rod under the water and positive to the copper ring attached to the rods. Fully expecting a nuclear explosion in my garage, I plugged in my battery charger and turned it on to the 10 amp selection. Bubbles immediately started to arise from all 4 rebar rods and from the Jet handle rod. The battery charger looked to be hovering around 1 or 2 amps (can't exactly tell due to the dial not being specific under 10 amps). Let cook for 12 hours. Not too shabby of the end result, but I know can be done better. I forgot one thing: the battery terminal alligator clips are made out of copper. Oooops.
> 
> ...


Evaporust is reusable, but I wouldn't pour it back into the fresh stuff in the container. I keep an old 1 gallon paint can with a wire mesh basket in it to make dunking easier. Over time, it will start working slower and slower. Just use it until it doesn't work any more, or you get tired of waiting so long.

Cheers,
Brad


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## ic3ss (Oct 19, 2010)

Holbs said:


> *Electrolysis Attempt #1*
> 
> I picked up supplies monday after work for a quickie start at this first attempt. Home Depot has 12" and 24" 3/8 rebar at affordable price tags, bout some 12 gauge wire, a tub. I was unsure about laying this rusted Jet handle rod right on the bottom of the tub so used some scrap plywood to raise it up. Connected my negative battery charger lead right to the rod under the water and positive to the copper ring attached to the rods. Fully expecting a nuclear explosion in my garage, I plugged in my battery charger and turned it on to the 10 amp selection. Bubbles immediately started to arise from all 4 rebar rods and from the Jet handle rod. The battery charger looked to be hovering around 1 or 2 amps (can't exactly tell due to the dial not being specific under 10 amps). Let cook for 12 hours. Not too shabby of the end result, but I know can be done better. I forgot one thing: the battery terminal alligator clips are made out of copper. Oooops.
> 
> ...


I used this method to clean up a few old hand planes. This took off the japanning without effort and took the rust with it.

Wayne


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*Electrolysis Attempt #3: Failure*

My first 2 attempts were the Jet stand handles: 12" long solid steel rods that were somewhat rusty. They came out with only blackness on them. My 3rd attempt was something larger: the rusted infeed roller. After 24hours of cooking, only the end tips were free of rust, but the chipper looking waves in the middle section of the roller itself looked as if nothing changed with the rust. I did notice when firing up the battery charger, only the ends had bubbles streaming off, but nowhere in the middle section. This is one big solid piece about 2" thick. I did use 12 gauge copper wire to hold this part suspended in 10 gallons with 10 tablespoons of washing soda. 
This weekend, I'll be switching everything to steel to suspend the part and fine tuning my copper wire around the outside connecting the 4×24" rebar i sticks I used. Might swap the 24" rebar to the 12" rebar I used on the smaller 3 gallon container I used for the Jet handles.


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## GregInMaryland (Mar 11, 2010)

Holbs said:


> *Electrolysis Attempt #3: Failure*
> 
> My first 2 attempts were the Jet stand handles: 12" long solid steel rods that were somewhat rusty. They came out with only blackness on them. My 3rd attempt was something larger: the rusted infeed roller. After 24hours of cooking, only the end tips were free of rust, but the chipper looking waves in the middle section of the roller itself looked as if nothing changed with the rust. I did notice when firing up the battery charger, only the ends had bubbles streaming off, but nowhere in the middle section. This is one big solid piece about 2" thick. I did use 12 gauge copper wire to hold this part suspended in 10 gallons with 10 tablespoons of washing soda.
> This weekend, I'll be switching everything to steel to suspend the part and fine tuning my copper wire around the outside connecting the 4×24" rebar i sticks I used. Might swap the 24" rebar to the 12" rebar I used on the smaller 3 gallon container I used for the Jet handles.


Bummer. Someone will be along shortly to give expert advice. Hang in there, you'll get where you need to be.

Greg


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## daddywoofdawg (Feb 1, 2014)

Holbs said:


> *Electrolysis Attempt #3: Failure*
> 
> My first 2 attempts were the Jet stand handles: 12" long solid steel rods that were somewhat rusty. They came out with only blackness on them. My 3rd attempt was something larger: the rusted infeed roller. After 24hours of cooking, only the end tips were free of rust, but the chipper looking waves in the middle section of the roller itself looked as if nothing changed with the rust. I did notice when firing up the battery charger, only the ends had bubbles streaming off, but nowhere in the middle section. This is one big solid piece about 2" thick. I did use 12 gauge copper wire to hold this part suspended in 10 gallons with 10 tablespoons of washing soda.
> This weekend, I'll be switching everything to steel to suspend the part and fine tuning my copper wire around the outside connecting the 4×24" rebar i sticks I used. Might swap the 24" rebar to the 12" rebar I used on the smaller 3 gallon container I used for the Jet handles.


Get you some sch 40 PVC and two end caps and some pvc glue cut the tube a few inches longer that your longest rusty roller/pipe glue on a end cap,place in like a five gal. bucket pour sand in the bucket it keep the tube upright,Place roller in tube and the pour evapo-rust in tube ,place other cap on tube let sit for 24 hrs,remove from tube,rinse and hit it with a wire brush.should clean up good.after removing you can put the next part in the tube,and repeat the soak.


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## ic3ss (Oct 19, 2010)

Holbs said:


> *Electrolysis Attempt #3: Failure*
> 
> My first 2 attempts were the Jet stand handles: 12" long solid steel rods that were somewhat rusty. They came out with only blackness on them. My 3rd attempt was something larger: the rusted infeed roller. After 24hours of cooking, only the end tips were free of rust, but the chipper looking waves in the middle section of the roller itself looked as if nothing changed with the rust. I did notice when firing up the battery charger, only the ends had bubbles streaming off, but nowhere in the middle section. This is one big solid piece about 2" thick. I did use 12 gauge copper wire to hold this part suspended in 10 gallons with 10 tablespoons of washing soda.
> This weekend, I'll be switching everything to steel to suspend the part and fine tuning my copper wire around the outside connecting the 4×24" rebar i sticks I used. Might swap the 24" rebar to the 12" rebar I used on the smaller 3 gallon container I used for the Jet handles.


You might also try to increase the soda content. I'm assuming you're using clean water each time. If not that then it must be a bad connection.

Wayne


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## davidroberts (Nov 8, 2008)

Holbs said:


> *Electrolysis Attempt #3: Failure*
> 
> My first 2 attempts were the Jet stand handles: 12" long solid steel rods that were somewhat rusty. They came out with only blackness on them. My 3rd attempt was something larger: the rusted infeed roller. After 24hours of cooking, only the end tips were free of rust, but the chipper looking waves in the middle section of the roller itself looked as if nothing changed with the rust. I did notice when firing up the battery charger, only the ends had bubbles streaming off, but nowhere in the middle section. This is one big solid piece about 2" thick. I did use 12 gauge copper wire to hold this part suspended in 10 gallons with 10 tablespoons of washing soda.
> This weekend, I'll be switching everything to steel to suspend the part and fine tuning my copper wire around the outside connecting the 4×24" rebar i sticks I used. Might swap the 24" rebar to the 12" rebar I used on the smaller 3 gallon container I used for the Jet handles.


It's really a toss up between chemical treatment like evaporust and electrolysis, and mechanical like a soft wire wheel in a drill or bench grinder. I tend to like electrolysis for larger parts, and evaporust for the smaller parts, nuts and bolts. I use a large plastic trash can with a 2×4 across the top for electrolysis, and wrap the steel wire a few times around the part to get a good connection. That also helps to suspend the par, if necessary. Either way, you are gonna need to wire wheel the parts to finish the job.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*electrolysis tub version 2.0 and Jet Motor test*

Good weekend results. The Jet 3HP motor spins freely with no internal noise nor smoke, just the outside casing needs alot of TLC. Probably will inquire about changing out bearing to see the $$$ damage.
Also, updated my electrolysis tank a little. Used plastic 3/4" brackets to keep the 12" rebar rods in place but yet loose enough to pull out when needed for the smaller tank. Bought rebar tie wire as that's the closest thing to steel I could find at Lowe's, because of the rebar tie wire strength to hold objects in the water as these infeed/outfeed rollers are not exactly light.
I have the infeed roller cooking for the last 3 hours and looking much better results in this short time as compared to my half hazard quickie slapped together version 1.0 electrolysis tub.


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## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *electrolysis tub version 2.0 and Jet Motor test*
> 
> Good weekend results. The Jet 3HP motor spins freely with no internal noise nor smoke, just the outside casing needs alot of TLC. Probably will inquire about changing out bearing to see the $$$ damage.
> Also, updated my electrolysis tank a little. Used plastic 3/4" brackets to keep the 12" rebar rods in place but yet loose enough to pull out when needed for the smaller tank. Bought rebar tie wire as that's the closest thing to steel I could find at Lowe's, because of the rebar tie wire strength to hold objects in the water as these infeed/outfeed rollers are not exactly light.
> I have the infeed roller cooking for the last 3 hours and looking much better results in this short time as compared to my half hazard quickie slapped together version 1.0 electrolysis tub.


You're getting there!

Hey, WD40 was named that because it took FOURTY tries to get it right!


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Holbs said:


> *electrolysis tub version 2.0 and Jet Motor test*
> 
> Good weekend results. The Jet 3HP motor spins freely with no internal noise nor smoke, just the outside casing needs alot of TLC. Probably will inquire about changing out bearing to see the $$$ damage.
> Also, updated my electrolysis tank a little. Used plastic 3/4" brackets to keep the 12" rebar rods in place but yet loose enough to pull out when needed for the smaller tank. Bought rebar tie wire as that's the closest thing to steel I could find at Lowe's, because of the rebar tie wire strength to hold objects in the water as these infeed/outfeed rollers are not exactly light.
> I have the infeed roller cooking for the last 3 hours and looking much better results in this short time as compared to my half hazard quickie slapped together version 1.0 electrolysis tub.


The motor running quietly is the best news today! Carry on….....


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Holbs said:


> *electrolysis tub version 2.0 and Jet Motor test*
> 
> Good weekend results. The Jet 3HP motor spins freely with no internal noise nor smoke, just the outside casing needs alot of TLC. Probably will inquire about changing out bearing to see the $$$ damage.
> Also, updated my electrolysis tank a little. Used plastic 3/4" brackets to keep the 12" rebar rods in place but yet loose enough to pull out when needed for the smaller tank. Bought rebar tie wire as that's the closest thing to steel I could find at Lowe's, because of the rebar tie wire strength to hold objects in the water as these infeed/outfeed rollers are not exactly light.
> I have the infeed roller cooking for the last 3 hours and looking much better results in this short time as compared to my half hazard quickie slapped together version 1.0 electrolysis tub.


Yes yes, and yes. Moving on up.


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## soob (Feb 3, 2015)

Holbs said:


> *electrolysis tub version 2.0 and Jet Motor test*
> 
> Good weekend results. The Jet 3HP motor spins freely with no internal noise nor smoke, just the outside casing needs alot of TLC. Probably will inquire about changing out bearing to see the $$$ damage.
> Also, updated my electrolysis tank a little. Used plastic 3/4" brackets to keep the 12" rebar rods in place but yet loose enough to pull out when needed for the smaller tank. Bought rebar tie wire as that's the closest thing to steel I could find at Lowe's, because of the rebar tie wire strength to hold objects in the water as these infeed/outfeed rollers are not exactly light.
> I have the infeed roller cooking for the last 3 hours and looking much better results in this short time as compared to my half hazard quickie slapped together version 1.0 electrolysis tub.


No reason to even consider changing the motor bearings if they are smooth and quiet. Can't ask for more, assuming there's no play in the shaft or anything like that.


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## davidroberts (Nov 8, 2008)

Holbs said:


> *electrolysis tub version 2.0 and Jet Motor test*
> 
> Good weekend results. The Jet 3HP motor spins freely with no internal noise nor smoke, just the outside casing needs alot of TLC. Probably will inquire about changing out bearing to see the $$$ damage.
> Also, updated my electrolysis tank a little. Used plastic 3/4" brackets to keep the 12" rebar rods in place but yet loose enough to pull out when needed for the smaller tank. Bought rebar tie wire as that's the closest thing to steel I could find at Lowe's, because of the rebar tie wire strength to hold objects in the water as these infeed/outfeed rollers are not exactly light.
> I have the infeed roller cooking for the last 3 hours and looking much better results in this short time as compared to my half hazard quickie slapped together version 1.0 electrolysis tub.


Yes, the motor is the critical and most expensive risk you take when rehabbing equipment. I'm assuming the motor is a baldor or more likely a Leeson, both excellent products. It should serve you well for years to come and worth well more than $100. Your electrolysis is very similar to my smaller setup. Looks professional! Won't be the last machine or hand tool you use it on, I'll bet. There is a light at the end of the tunnel, and it's not a train!


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*Infeed / Outfeed Roller results after electrolysis *

Almost wish I bought 3 or 4 battery chargers as letting items cook for a day or 2, plus all the rods in this Jet planer… should be done by 4th of July 
But here are the before / after results of the Jet infeed and outfeed rollers. Heavily rusted before, not too shabby after. The black stain dots litter here and there but that's ok as does not affect performance at all. Scrubbed afterwards with a nylon brush. I have ordered additional electrolysis items from Amazon (3M scotch finishing pads, 4×12" graphite rods, etc) as I see doing much more in the future.


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## GregInMaryland (Mar 11, 2010)

Holbs said:


> *Infeed / Outfeed Roller results after electrolysis *
> 
> Almost wish I bought 3 or 4 battery chargers as letting items cook for a day or 2, plus all the rods in this Jet planer… should be done by 4th of July
> But here are the before / after results of the Jet infeed and outfeed rollers. Heavily rusted before, not too shabby after. The black stain dots litter here and there but that's ok as does not affect performance at all. Scrubbed afterwards with a nylon brush. I have ordered additional electrolysis items from Amazon (3M scotch finishing pads, 4×12" graphite rods, etc) as I see doing much more in the future.


Nice work!

Greg


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Holbs said:


> *Infeed / Outfeed Roller results after electrolysis *
> 
> Almost wish I bought 3 or 4 battery chargers as letting items cook for a day or 2, plus all the rods in this Jet planer… should be done by 4th of July
> But here are the before / after results of the Jet infeed and outfeed rollers. Heavily rusted before, not too shabby after. The black stain dots litter here and there but that's ok as does not affect performance at all. Scrubbed afterwards with a nylon brush. I have ordered additional electrolysis items from Amazon (3M scotch finishing pads, 4×12" graphite rods, etc) as I see doing much more in the future.


That is looking like new! Carry on…..........


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Holbs said:


> *Infeed / Outfeed Roller results after electrolysis *
> 
> Almost wish I bought 3 or 4 battery chargers as letting items cook for a day or 2, plus all the rods in this Jet planer… should be done by 4th of July
> But here are the before / after results of the Jet infeed and outfeed rollers. Heavily rusted before, not too shabby after. The black stain dots litter here and there but that's ok as does not affect performance at all. Scrubbed afterwards with a nylon brush. I have ordered additional electrolysis items from Amazon (3M scotch finishing pads, 4×12" graphite rods, etc) as I see doing much more in the future.


Wow! You are really going to town and you're going to be very happy happy happy when you're done with this. Slow and steady, straight ahead.


----------



## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Infeed / Outfeed Roller results after electrolysis *
> 
> Almost wish I bought 3 or 4 battery chargers as letting items cook for a day or 2, plus all the rods in this Jet planer… should be done by 4th of July
> But here are the before / after results of the Jet infeed and outfeed rollers. Heavily rusted before, not too shabby after. The black stain dots litter here and there but that's ok as does not affect performance at all. Scrubbed afterwards with a nylon brush. I have ordered additional electrolysis items from Amazon (3M scotch finishing pads, 4×12" graphite rods, etc) as I see doing much more in the future.


Wow, BIG difference. Good job so far


----------



## Tomoose (Mar 1, 2009)

Holbs said:


> *Infeed / Outfeed Roller results after electrolysis *
> 
> Almost wish I bought 3 or 4 battery chargers as letting items cook for a day or 2, plus all the rods in this Jet planer… should be done by 4th of July
> But here are the before / after results of the Jet infeed and outfeed rollers. Heavily rusted before, not too shabby after. The black stain dots litter here and there but that's ok as does not affect performance at all. Scrubbed afterwards with a nylon brush. I have ordered additional electrolysis items from Amazon (3M scotch finishing pads, 4×12" graphite rods, etc) as I see doing much more in the future.


Holy cow that is impressive! Great job - can't wait to see the final product.

Best,
Tom


----------



## MerylL (Aug 24, 2014)

Holbs said:


> *Infeed / Outfeed Roller results after electrolysis *
> 
> Almost wish I bought 3 or 4 battery chargers as letting items cook for a day or 2, plus all the rods in this Jet planer… should be done by 4th of July
> But here are the before / after results of the Jet infeed and outfeed rollers. Heavily rusted before, not too shabby after. The black stain dots litter here and there but that's ok as does not affect performance at all. Scrubbed afterwards with a nylon brush. I have ordered additional electrolysis items from Amazon (3M scotch finishing pads, 4×12" graphite rods, etc) as I see doing much more in the future.


That just blows me away. I'm so impressed at your steadfastness in tackling this.


----------



## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*Washed base, panels. Motor rust concern. Bolts & Nuts*

Dunked all nuts & bolts in EvapoRust for 2 days and laid out in some kind of organized fashion:









Washed base and panel covers. Rust is still present on these metal pieces… unsure how to go about it. Quite possibly leave as is, as I have never done metal painting. Besides, color matching would be a chore ? I would have to ask other LJ machinery restoration folks about how to proceed.

















Took the motor apart just a little bit to see how to go about cleaning and checking things out. The capacitor looks to be in ok shape. Going to have to figure out how to get the rust off the housing (been spoiled with EvapoRust and electrolysis).


















And finally figured out a good way to get rust off the lower bed. Flipped upside down and poured the last of the Evaporust with some other parts into some sheet metal I had laying around.


----------



## Bigrock (Apr 16, 2010)

Holbs said:


> *Washed base, panels. Motor rust concern. Bolts & Nuts*
> 
> Dunked all nuts & bolts in EvapoRust for 2 days and laid out in some kind of organized fashion:
> 
> ...


Hi:
I would not use any cleaners on the motor. Liquids are it's worst problem. If it turns freely, you should be good to go. If it's good just sand it and tape op the parts and spray it with Black paint. They are good motors. Make sure it's good and dry.
Have Fun


----------



## ArlinEastman (May 22, 2011)

Holbs said:


> *Washed base, panels. Motor rust concern. Bolts & Nuts*
> 
> Dunked all nuts & bolts in EvapoRust for 2 days and laid out in some kind of organized fashion:
> 
> ...


Good job so far


----------



## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Washed base, panels. Motor rust concern. Bolts & Nuts*
> 
> Dunked all nuts & bolts in EvapoRust for 2 days and laid out in some kind of organized fashion:
> 
> ...


Bigrock… ah.. good idea. didnt think about that. Will use straight sand paper to knock as much rust off the motor housing as possible. I was worried about any liquids so halted that aspect til I figured it out. I HAVE to do something because that rust looks horrible, even though does not affect anything or I may never see the motor again once all assembled… in the back of my mind, I'll always know that rust was there so best hit it now


----------



## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Holbs said:


> *Washed base, panels. Motor rust concern. Bolts & Nuts*
> 
> Dunked all nuts & bolts in EvapoRust for 2 days and laid out in some kind of organized fashion:
> 
> ...


Good job Holbs keep at it and she'll turn out fine.

If you can find the coarse block it removes rust the fastest:









http://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/sa99996/#.VSCm2fDLJME


----------



## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Washed base, panels. Motor rust concern. Bolts & Nuts*
> 
> Dunked all nuts & bolts in EvapoRust for 2 days and laid out in some kind of organized fashion:
> 
> ...


posted on forums just seconds ago about assistance. If I remove rust on the metal panels, do I have to proceed with auto body type painting ?


----------



## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Holbs said:


> *Washed base, panels. Motor rust concern. Bolts & Nuts*
> 
> Dunked all nuts & bolts in EvapoRust for 2 days and laid out in some kind of organized fashion:
> 
> ...


I would otherwise rust might return.

Metal prep, primer, paint yada yada


----------



## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Washed base, panels. Motor rust concern. Bolts & Nuts*
> 
> Dunked all nuts & bolts in EvapoRust for 2 days and laid out in some kind of organized fashion:
> 
> ...


ok… i'll just do some minor sanding and call it  It's not as if I'm going to submit 'restore of the year' project award. so, some rust spots will stay.


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Holbs said:


> *Washed base, panels. Motor rust concern. Bolts & Nuts*
> 
> Dunked all nuts & bolts in EvapoRust for 2 days and laid out in some kind of organized fashion:
> 
> ...


You're gonna have a gem when you get done.


----------



## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Holbs said:


> *Washed base, panels. Motor rust concern. Bolts & Nuts*
> 
> Dunked all nuts & bolts in EvapoRust for 2 days and laid out in some kind of organized fashion:
> 
> ...


Looking good!

I would sand the outside of the motor with some 120 grit and spray with Rustoleum rattle can. Same for those areas of sheet metal that are rusty.

Carry on…..............and keep us posted.


----------



## WoodNSawdust (Mar 7, 2015)

Holbs said:


> *Washed base, panels. Motor rust concern. Bolts & Nuts*
> 
> Dunked all nuts & bolts in EvapoRust for 2 days and laid out in some kind of organized fashion:
> 
> ...


I would mask off any air inlets / outlets before sanding, wire brushing, painting, etc.


----------



## Grumpymike (Jan 23, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Washed base, panels. Motor rust concern. Bolts & Nuts*
> 
> Dunked all nuts & bolts in EvapoRust for 2 days and laid out in some kind of organized fashion:
> 
> ...


+1 for gfadvm and WoodNsawdust


----------



## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*24hour results of EvapoRust and table, "hack" paint job*

Good results from EvapoRust (yet, once again!). Here, the table is 5 minutes removed from my makeshift lower planer table holding jig (sheet metal and evaporust) and after a gentle washing. Have to ROS sand this week and research cleaning and protecting cast iron table tops (has been a while since doing my jointer beds). Table is not in bad shape at all, except for a dime size area of severe pitting, which I guess stays forever?


















And my shhhhhh don't look closely hack paint job:


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Holbs said:


> *24hour results of EvapoRust and table, "hack" paint job*
> 
> Good results from EvapoRust (yet, once again!). Here, the table is 5 minutes removed from my makeshift lower planer table holding jig (sheet metal and evaporust) and after a gentle washing. Have to ROS sand this week and research cleaning and protecting cast iron table tops (has been a while since doing my jointer beds). Table is not in bad shape at all, except for a dime size area of severe pitting, which I guess stays forever?
> 
> ...


Wow! You are gettin er done. Keep on keepin on.


----------



## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Holbs said:


> *24hour results of EvapoRust and table, "hack" paint job*
> 
> Good results from EvapoRust (yet, once again!). Here, the table is 5 minutes removed from my makeshift lower planer table holding jig (sheet metal and evaporust) and after a gentle washing. Have to ROS sand this week and research cleaning and protecting cast iron table tops (has been a while since doing my jointer beds). Table is not in bad shape at all, except for a dime size area of severe pitting, which I guess stays forever?
> 
> ...


Looking good! The paint job looks fine from here. Just ROS that cast iron (120-180 grit) and keep it waxed and you will have a smooth, slick surface that will not rust.


----------



## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *24hour results of EvapoRust and table, "hack" paint job*
> 
> Good results from EvapoRust (yet, once again!). Here, the table is 5 minutes removed from my makeshift lower planer table holding jig (sheet metal and evaporust) and after a gentle washing. Have to ROS sand this week and research cleaning and protecting cast iron table tops (has been a while since doing my jointer beds). Table is not in bad shape at all, except for a dime size area of severe pitting, which I guess stays forever?
> 
> ...


You could give those panels a light sanding and paint the whole thing. Then you wont have those splotchy areas that dont quite match.


----------



## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *24hour results of EvapoRust and table, "hack" paint job*
> 
> Good results from EvapoRust (yet, once again!). Here, the table is 5 minutes removed from my makeshift lower planer table holding jig (sheet metal and evaporust) and after a gentle washing. Have to ROS sand this week and research cleaning and protecting cast iron table tops (has been a while since doing my jointer beds). Table is not in bad shape at all, except for a dime size area of severe pitting, which I guess stays forever?
> 
> ...


I'll live with the hack paint job, Joe. But will ask around about sand blasting this week. I still have that option until I start putting everything back together. I'm a telephone man (somewhat like AT&T techs you see driving around) so know alot of customers with blasting equip. I'll have to ask a favor or small fee to blast all pieces. I'm sure, I can primer & paint myself (well, with my dinky Summit HVLP). But if sand blasting does not get done, I'll survive with the panel pieces as is.


----------



## MerylL (Aug 24, 2014)

Holbs said:


> *24hour results of EvapoRust and table, "hack" paint job*
> 
> Good results from EvapoRust (yet, once again!). Here, the table is 5 minutes removed from my makeshift lower planer table holding jig (sheet metal and evaporust) and after a gentle washing. Have to ROS sand this week and research cleaning and protecting cast iron table tops (has been a while since doing my jointer beds). Table is not in bad shape at all, except for a dime size area of severe pitting, which I guess stays forever?
> 
> ...


Do you remember how you removed those 2 rollers from the bottom bed? I can only think that the ends are pressed on them because there is no threaded fasteners. Today I removed my set screws, but it affected nothing other than the eccentric shaft spun. So it makes me think that the rods were placed in and the ends then pressed into the bearings, which stay in the roller. I cleaned them in place but it really has me curious!


----------



## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *24hour results of EvapoRust and table, "hack" paint job*
> 
> Good results from EvapoRust (yet, once again!). Here, the table is 5 minutes removed from my makeshift lower planer table holding jig (sheet metal and evaporust) and after a gentle washing. Have to ROS sand this week and research cleaning and protecting cast iron table tops (has been a while since doing my jointer beds). Table is not in bad shape at all, except for a dime size area of severe pitting, which I guess stays forever?
> 
> ...


I do not remember, at this time. It was logical once I had the table in hand. Didn't even had the parts diagram PDF when it came time to disassemble. Used the PDF excessively upon reassembly.


----------



## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*Lower table ROS'd, mineral spirited, paste waxed. Also, about to tackle gummy rusty columns*

Used my 5" Random Orbital Sander with 280 grit then 400 grit, WD-40, mineral spirits, johnson paste wax. Good results. A slight minor blemish of swirl marks in one spot, may or may not try to tackle that before assembly.
When found:









As of today:










Next up: the 4 columns. These are rusted down the middle interior, exterior, rods, and the bearings. Will get 4 new bearings for the rods (I really need a bearing puller…especially with cutter head coming up eventually).


----------



## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

Holbs said:


> *Lower table ROS'd, mineral spirited, paste waxed. Also, about to tackle gummy rusty columns*
> 
> Used my 5" Random Orbital Sander with 280 grit then 400 grit, WD-40, mineral spirits, johnson paste wax. Good results. A slight minor blemish of swirl marks in one spot, may or may not try to tackle that before assembly.
> When found:
> ...


Great start keep us posted


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Holbs said:


> *Lower table ROS'd, mineral spirited, paste waxed. Also, about to tackle gummy rusty columns*
> 
> Used my 5" Random Orbital Sander with 280 grit then 400 grit, WD-40, mineral spirits, johnson paste wax. Good results. A slight minor blemish of swirl marks in one spot, may or may not try to tackle that before assembly.
> When found:
> ...


Oh yea! Gettin her all purdeed up.


----------



## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Holbs said:


> *Lower table ROS'd, mineral spirited, paste waxed. Also, about to tackle gummy rusty columns*
> 
> Used my 5" Random Orbital Sander with 280 grit then 400 grit, WD-40, mineral spirits, johnson paste wax. Good results. A slight minor blemish of swirl marks in one spot, may or may not try to tackle that before assembly.
> When found:
> ...


Are the bearings bad: seized/gritty sounding when turned? A shot of "Break Free" might be all they need.

Table came out looking like new!


----------



## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Lower table ROS'd, mineral spirited, paste waxed. Also, about to tackle gummy rusty columns*
> 
> Used my 5" Random Orbital Sander with 280 grit then 400 grit, WD-40, mineral spirits, johnson paste wax. Good results. A slight minor blemish of swirl marks in one spot, may or may not try to tackle that before assembly.
> When found:
> ...


Gfadvm… the bearings "work" as they rotate noiselessly. But, they were rusted top & bottom. Just to be safe, I will replace the 4 of them (I need the practice skill anyways) as I will do the same for the 2 cutterhead bearings.


----------



## JulianLech (Jan 13, 2011)

Holbs said:


> *Lower table ROS'd, mineral spirited, paste waxed. Also, about to tackle gummy rusty columns*
> 
> Used my 5" Random Orbital Sander with 280 grit then 400 grit, WD-40, mineral spirits, johnson paste wax. Good results. A slight minor blemish of swirl marks in one spot, may or may not try to tackle that before assembly.
> When found:
> ...


Looks like it will be a new machine. I would definitely replace parts such as bearings when the machine is disassembled.


----------



## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Holbs said:


> *Lower table ROS'd, mineral spirited, paste waxed. Also, about to tackle gummy rusty columns*
> 
> Used my 5" Random Orbital Sander with 280 grit then 400 grit, WD-40, mineral spirits, johnson paste wax. Good results. A slight minor blemish of swirl marks in one spot, may or may not try to tackle that before assembly.
> When found:
> ...


Probably not a bad plan to replace those bearings but the ones on it are probably servicable if they spin freely and are quiet. But like Julian said, you have easy access to them now.


----------



## MerylL (Aug 24, 2014)

Holbs said:


> *Lower table ROS'd, mineral spirited, paste waxed. Also, about to tackle gummy rusty columns*
> 
> Used my 5" Random Orbital Sander with 280 grit then 400 grit, WD-40, mineral spirits, johnson paste wax. Good results. A slight minor blemish of swirl marks in one spot, may or may not try to tackle that before assembly.
> When found:
> ...


Those 4 L-shaped nuts to the right of those columns… 3 of my 4 are broken. Just found them online. Obsolete, no longer available from mfr. The site (MM tools or something) used a substitute part number… no photo so fingers crossed!


----------



## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Lower table ROS'd, mineral spirited, paste waxed. Also, about to tackle gummy rusty columns*
> 
> Used my 5" Random Orbital Sander with 280 grit then 400 grit, WD-40, mineral spirits, johnson paste wax. Good results. A slight minor blemish of swirl marks in one spot, may or may not try to tackle that before assembly.
> When found:
> ...


Those L-shaped nuts are what moves the table up and down. Pretty beefy. Surprised they are broke.


----------



## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*Removed bearings, disassembled cutter head*

Tuesday and Wednesday, making more progress. Removed the 4 bearings in each column rod that rotate the chain sprocket underneath that controls the up/down of the lower bed. Also removed the far side bearing of the cutter head. Ordered 4 new OEM column rod bearings from: http://www.vxb.com/ that have the exact " NACHI 6202ZE", and same for the cutter head bearing "NACHI 6205ZE" (surprisingly, via a Amazon partner). Came to be about $8 each. VXB came highly recommended from a local machine shop. Was told to STAY AWAY from 'China' bearings, as these NACHI are Japanese.
I also took the 15" knife blades out and are having them sharpened for $8 each, locally by a professional outfit that does this on a very large industrial looking sharpening machine (I should ask to take a picture of it).
Two columns have completed their electrolysis, #3 is being cooked tonite.


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Holbs said:


> *Removed bearings, disassembled cutter head*
> 
> Tuesday and Wednesday, making more progress. Removed the 4 bearings in each column rod that rotate the chain sprocket underneath that controls the up/down of the lower bed. Also removed the far side bearing of the cutter head. Ordered 4 new OEM column rod bearings from: http://www.vxb.com/ that have the exact " NACHI 6202ZE", and same for the cutter head bearing "NACHI 6205ZE" (surprisingly, via a Amazon partner). Came to be about $8 each. VXB came highly recommended from a local machine shop. Was told to STAY AWAY from 'China' bearings, as these NACHI are Japanese.
> I also took the 15" knife blades out and are having them sharpened for $8 each, locally by a professional outfit that does this on a very large industrial looking sharpening machine (I should ask to take a picture of it).
> Two columns have completed their electrolysis, #3 is being cooked tonite.


I like how this has been coming along. Good score on those bearings, and thnx for the link


----------



## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*Cutterhead and column clean up*

Disassembled the cutterhead and the 4 columns this week. Grrr… still waiting for the 4 column rod bearings to arrive (15th-20th), which is actually AOK because that is when the 3×15" knives should be ready for pickup. Every piece was cooked for 24hours via electrolysis. Perfect timing because I am getting a little wary of rust and disassembling stuff. I had no idea the amount of rust THROUGHOUT this machine. Wow. It's near time to assemble and move on.

Old cutterhead and columns:


















*
*
*
after electrolysis:


----------



## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Cutterhead and column clean up*
> 
> Disassembled the cutterhead and the 4 columns this week. Grrr… still waiting for the 4 column rod bearings to arrive (15th-20th), which is actually AOK because that is when the 3×15" knives should be ready for pickup. Every piece was cooked for 24hours via electrolysis. Perfect timing because I am getting a little wary of rust and disassembling stuff. I had no idea the amount of rust THROUGHOUT this machine. Wow. It's near time to assemble and move on.
> 
> ...


I hear you about getting tired of all the rust n' stuff. But just think how cool it's going to be to have this beast when it's DONE !

Hang in there, it'll get better !


----------



## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Holbs said:


> *Cutterhead and column clean up*
> 
> Disassembled the cutterhead and the 4 columns this week. Grrr… still waiting for the 4 column rod bearings to arrive (15th-20th), which is actually AOK because that is when the 3×15" knives should be ready for pickup. Every piece was cooked for 24hours via electrolysis. Perfect timing because I am getting a little wary of rust and disassembling stuff. I had no idea the amount of rust THROUGHOUT this machine. Wow. It's near time to assemble and move on.
> 
> ...


Still looking like new! (after a lot of effort on your part)

Carry on…..


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Holbs said:


> *Cutterhead and column clean up*
> 
> Disassembled the cutterhead and the 4 columns this week. Grrr… still waiting for the 4 column rod bearings to arrive (15th-20th), which is actually AOK because that is when the 3×15" knives should be ready for pickup. Every piece was cooked for 24hours via electrolysis. Perfect timing because I am getting a little wary of rust and disassembling stuff. I had no idea the amount of rust THROUGHOUT this machine. Wow. It's near time to assemble and move on.
> 
> ...


Wow! Don't give up. Good things come w/patience.


----------



## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*all 5 bearings arrived today. Disassembly done. Now, assembly begins!*

Here are the 4 column rod bearings and one of the cutter head bearings. On the old bearings to the left, you can see the score that has distorted the bearing seals enough to cause me a concern to purchase new bearings on the right (link in previous blog post): 
*








*
*
And so it comes time to assemble. I have no documentation other than the Jet parts list to go by. I'll be using lithium grease just about everywhere metal touches metal. I know to use and lubricate with 90w oil for the infeed and outfeed roller bushing blocks. I can't recall off top of my head what weight oil to use in the gear box, but it will come to me when the time is needed.


----------



## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

Holbs said:


> *all 5 bearings arrived today. Disassembly done. Now, assembly begins!*
> 
> Here are the 4 column rod bearings and one of the cutter head bearings. On the old bearings to the left, you can see the score that has distorted the bearing seals enough to cause me a concern to purchase new bearings on the right (link in previous blog post):
> *
> ...


Congrats keep us posted of the progress


----------



## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Holbs said:


> *all 5 bearings arrived today. Disassembly done. Now, assembly begins!*
> 
> Here are the 4 column rod bearings and one of the cutter head bearings. On the old bearings to the left, you can see the score that has distorted the bearing seals enough to cause me a concern to purchase new bearings on the right (link in previous blog post):
> *
> ...


You can see the light at the end of the tunnel now!


----------



## DonBroussard (Mar 27, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *all 5 bearings arrived today. Disassembly done. Now, assembly begins!*
> 
> Here are the 4 column rod bearings and one of the cutter head bearings. On the old bearings to the left, you can see the score that has distorted the bearing seals enough to cause me a concern to purchase new bearings on the right (link in previous blog post):
> *
> ...


You are going to have an awesome machine after it's reassembled and tuned up! Congrats will be in order very soon.


----------



## kaerlighedsbamsen (Sep 16, 2013)

Holbs said:


> *all 5 bearings arrived today. Disassembly done. Now, assembly begins!*
> 
> Here are the 4 column rod bearings and one of the cutter head bearings. On the old bearings to the left, you can see the score that has distorted the bearing seals enough to cause me a concern to purchase new bearings on the right (link in previous blog post):
> *
> ...


Just read through tis blog. Lots of information getting shared there - great!
Looking forward to hear more about your planer project


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Holbs said:


> *all 5 bearings arrived today. Disassembly done. Now, assembly begins!*
> 
> Here are the 4 column rod bearings and one of the cutter head bearings. On the old bearings to the left, you can see the score that has distorted the bearing seals enough to cause me a concern to purchase new bearings on the right (link in previous blog post):
> *
> ...


WhoopWhoop!! No Timkins??


----------



## Shadowrider (Feb 2, 2015)

Holbs said:


> *all 5 bearings arrived today. Disassembly done. Now, assembly begins!*
> 
> Here are the 4 column rod bearings and one of the cutter head bearings. On the old bearings to the left, you can see the score that has distorted the bearing seals enough to cause me a concern to purchase new bearings on the right (link in previous blog post):
> *
> ...


I used Nachi Quest bearings in my Unisaw's arbor. They are good quality Japanese bearings with quality grease inside. They'll last for years.


----------



## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*Base, columns, lower table, upper table assembly*

Lithium Grease on EVERYTHING! How easily things go together when there is no rust and fresh grease being used. Where as during dis-assembly, I was almost near seeking some kind of hydraulic assistance to get upper and lower tables off those columns. Now, they glide/slide easily up and down, no binding, while being snug. Everything is finger tight, not torqued as of yet. Stopped after rough install of infeed / outfeed rollers. I actually had to look at Jet planer pictures to see which side is the infeed of the lower table. I am missing 1 part…dang, phoey, grrr. I was so meticulous on placing parts out as I dis-assembled. I am missing the woodruff key for the upper column gear, that works the underneath chain to lower/raise the table. It's 1/4" high x 1/8" thick or so. I searched everywhere for that little sucker. Luckily, eReplacements has it in stock for $4.


----------



## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Holbs said:


> *Base, columns, lower table, upper table assembly*
> 
> Lithium Grease on EVERYTHING! How easily things go together when there is no rust and fresh grease being used. Where as during dis-assembly, I was almost near seeking some kind of hydraulic assistance to get upper and lower tables off those columns. Now, they glide/slide easily up and down, no binding, while being snug. Everything is finger tight, not torqued as of yet. Stopped after rough install of infeed / outfeed rollers. I actually had to look at Jet planer pictures to see which side is the infeed of the lower table. I am missing 1 part…dang, phoey, grrr. I was so meticulous on placing parts out as I dis-assembled. I am missing the woodruff key for the upper column gear, that works the underneath chain to lower/raise the table. It's 1/4" high x 1/8" thick or so. I searched everywhere for that little sucker. Luckily, eReplacements has it in stock for $4.


That thing looks new! You are getting close. Can't wait to see it making some shavings. Carry on….


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Holbs said:


> *Base, columns, lower table, upper table assembly*
> 
> Lithium Grease on EVERYTHING! How easily things go together when there is no rust and fresh grease being used. Where as during dis-assembly, I was almost near seeking some kind of hydraulic assistance to get upper and lower tables off those columns. Now, they glide/slide easily up and down, no binding, while being snug. Everything is finger tight, not torqued as of yet. Stopped after rough install of infeed / outfeed rollers. I actually had to look at Jet planer pictures to see which side is the infeed of the lower table. I am missing 1 part…dang, phoey, grrr. I was so meticulous on placing parts out as I dis-assembled. I am missing the woodruff key for the upper column gear, that works the underneath chain to lower/raise the table. It's 1/4" high x 1/8" thick or so. I searched everywhere for that little sucker. Luckily, eReplacements has it in stock for $4.


That is looking so good. Wow!


----------



## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Base, columns, lower table, upper table assembly*
> 
> Lithium Grease on EVERYTHING! How easily things go together when there is no rust and fresh grease being used. Where as during dis-assembly, I was almost near seeking some kind of hydraulic assistance to get upper and lower tables off those columns. Now, they glide/slide easily up and down, no binding, while being snug. Everything is finger tight, not torqued as of yet. Stopped after rough install of infeed / outfeed rollers. I actually had to look at Jet planer pictures to see which side is the infeed of the lower table. I am missing 1 part…dang, phoey, grrr. I was so meticulous on placing parts out as I dis-assembled. I am missing the woodruff key for the upper column gear, that works the underneath chain to lower/raise the table. It's 1/4" high x 1/8" thick or so. I searched everywhere for that little sucker. Luckily, eReplacements has it in stock for $4.


*Any *auto parts store will carry a selection of woodruff keys. Just bring in the gear with you.


----------



## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Base, columns, lower table, upper table assembly*
> 
> Lithium Grease on EVERYTHING! How easily things go together when there is no rust and fresh grease being used. Where as during dis-assembly, I was almost near seeking some kind of hydraulic assistance to get upper and lower tables off those columns. Now, they glide/slide easily up and down, no binding, while being snug. Everything is finger tight, not torqued as of yet. Stopped after rough install of infeed / outfeed rollers. I actually had to look at Jet planer pictures to see which side is the infeed of the lower table. I am missing 1 part…dang, phoey, grrr. I was so meticulous on placing parts out as I dis-assembled. I am missing the woodruff key for the upper column gear, that works the underneath chain to lower/raise the table. It's 1/4" high x 1/8" thick or so. I searched everywhere for that little sucker. Luckily, eReplacements has it in stock for $4.


I was mistaken. I am in need of rectangular pieces, not circular or semi-circular. So, this key I am need of is called 'keyway'. 2 auto parts stores I stopped at (NAPA and Pep Boys) has roller pins and woodruff keys, but not keyways.
Luckily, right next door is a Fastenal location. They had 1/8" x 12" and 1/4" x 12" keyway stock for 0.50 cent each. The 1/8" is too small…and the 1/4" too big. They had a 3/16" selection area, but were out of stock. grrr. I'll probably just order one from eReplacements for $3 and be done with it. I have to order a new handle and oil gasket as well.


----------



## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Holbs said:


> *Base, columns, lower table, upper table assembly*
> 
> Lithium Grease on EVERYTHING! How easily things go together when there is no rust and fresh grease being used. Where as during dis-assembly, I was almost near seeking some kind of hydraulic assistance to get upper and lower tables off those columns. Now, they glide/slide easily up and down, no binding, while being snug. Everything is finger tight, not torqued as of yet. Stopped after rough install of infeed / outfeed rollers. I actually had to look at Jet planer pictures to see which side is the infeed of the lower table. I am missing 1 part…dang, phoey, grrr. I was so meticulous on placing parts out as I dis-assembled. I am missing the woodruff key for the upper column gear, that works the underneath chain to lower/raise the table. It's 1/4" high x 1/8" thick or so. I searched everywhere for that little sucker. Luckily, eReplacements has it in stock for $4.


Wholesale Tool usually has a good selection if you have one of those nearby. Fastenal NEVER has what I need! (but they can order it)


----------



## MerylL (Aug 24, 2014)

Holbs said:


> *Base, columns, lower table, upper table assembly*
> 
> Lithium Grease on EVERYTHING! How easily things go together when there is no rust and fresh grease being used. Where as during dis-assembly, I was almost near seeking some kind of hydraulic assistance to get upper and lower tables off those columns. Now, they glide/slide easily up and down, no binding, while being snug. Everything is finger tight, not torqued as of yet. Stopped after rough install of infeed / outfeed rollers. I actually had to look at Jet planer pictures to see which side is the infeed of the lower table. I am missing 1 part…dang, phoey, grrr. I was so meticulous on placing parts out as I dis-assembled. I am missing the woodruff key for the upper column gear, that works the underneath chain to lower/raise the table. It's 1/4" high x 1/8" thick or so. I searched everywhere for that little sucker. Luckily, eReplacements has it in stock for $4.


FWIW, future projects, I use cheap sandwich baggies and label them with the part the keys/bolts came from, and how many I should find in there. Works amazingly when you get to reassembly stage.


----------



## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*Finally, eReplacement parts arrived*

I can continue with my re-assembly this weekend. The oil gasket, gear key, and new handle arrived today. Should be all finished and 100% operational by end of sunday.


----------



## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Finally, eReplacement parts arrived*
> 
> I can continue with my re-assembly this weekend. The oil gasket, gear key, and new handle arrived today. Should be all finished and 100% operational by end of sunday.


The finale' is in sight!


----------



## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Holbs said:


> *Finally, eReplacement parts arrived*
> 
> I can continue with my re-assembly this weekend. The oil gasket, gear key, and new handle arrived today. Should be all finished and 100% operational by end of sunday.


Can't wait to see you making mountains of shavings. I really admire the attention to every detail you have shown. You have much more patience than I do.


----------



## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Finally, eReplacement parts arrived*
> 
> I can continue with my re-assembly this weekend. The oil gasket, gear key, and new handle arrived today. Should be all finished and 100% operational by end of sunday.


assembly should be finished this weekend. no idea how to set everything level to a 0.001" level between cuter head, rollers, lower table, etc. not much out there about alignment on 15" planers. remember, only thing i have of reference is some grizzly cutterhead removal/install, and eReplacements part diagram. tis like a 1,000 part jig saw puzzle


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Holbs said:


> *Finally, eReplacement parts arrived*
> 
> I can continue with my re-assembly this weekend. The oil gasket, gear key, and new handle arrived today. Should be all finished and 100% operational by end of sunday.


WhoopWhoop!!


----------



## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*First Run*

First electrical motor, cutterhead, roller run was accomplished this morning. Success! No knives installed, no alignment of bed, rollers, etc as of yet. Added oil to the gear box too. Just wanted to ensure all parts did as they are suppose to, to date. One issue arose that confused me. The new bearing for the cutterhead malfunctioned, as in one of the bearing side walls magically disappeared somehow. No idea! Changed out to the old cutterhead bearing which seems to work as it should.










****

Other issue: the 16fpm and 20fpm pullout handle seems to be stuck on 20fpm. Does not want to be pushed in nor pulled out. Confused on this one as to why. Will work on the worm gear assembly box and round handle after all said and done. It needs cleanup. Still have to install the horizontal handle piece that attaches to the round handle.










Watched a Grizzly 15" planer video that looks to be a clone to this Jet 15" planer for odd ball instructions. Talks about setup and alignment that I was needing to be done later today


----------



## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Holbs said:


> *First Run*
> 
> First electrical motor, cutterhead, roller run was accomplished this morning. Success! No knives installed, no alignment of bed, rollers, etc as of yet. Added oil to the gear box too. Just wanted to ensure all parts did as they are suppose to, to date. One issue arose that confused me. The new bearing for the cutterhead malfunctioned, as in one of the bearing side walls magically disappeared somehow. No idea! Changed out to the old cutterhead bearing which seems to work as it should.
> 
> ...


"Bearing side wall" disappeared. Is this the dust cap on one side of the bearing? If so, it should be warranted.


----------



## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *First Run*
> 
> First electrical motor, cutterhead, roller run was accomplished this morning. Success! No knives installed, no alignment of bed, rollers, etc as of yet. Added oil to the gear box too. Just wanted to ensure all parts did as they are suppose to, to date. One issue arose that confused me. The new bearing for the cutterhead malfunctioned, as in one of the bearing side walls magically disappeared somehow. No idea! Changed out to the old cutterhead bearing which seems to work as it should.
> 
> ...


bleh.. i just re-used older bearing. Do not want to wait another week or 2 for bearing. now that i know what's involved in getting to that bearing, it's not a big deal to tackle this down the road.
Gfadvm… if you have experience with 15" planers, can you see my forum post I just posted about blade height and bevel/microbevel ?


----------



## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Holbs said:


> *First Run*
> 
> First electrical motor, cutterhead, roller run was accomplished this morning. Success! No knives installed, no alignment of bed, rollers, etc as of yet. Added oil to the gear box too. Just wanted to ensure all parts did as they are suppose to, to date. One issue arose that confused me. The new bearing for the cutterhead malfunctioned, as in one of the bearing side walls magically disappeared somehow. No idea! Changed out to the old cutterhead bearing which seems to work as it should.
> 
> ...


I have an 18"er and leave all the sharpening to my sharpening shop. My manual (Woodmaster) specifies blade height settings so I didn't have to do any figuring.


----------



## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *First Run*
> 
> First electrical motor, cutterhead, roller run was accomplished this morning. Success! No knives installed, no alignment of bed, rollers, etc as of yet. Added oil to the gear box too. Just wanted to ensure all parts did as they are suppose to, to date. One issue arose that confused me. The new bearing for the cutterhead malfunctioned, as in one of the bearing side walls magically disappeared somehow. No idea! Changed out to the old cutterhead bearing which seems to work as it should.
> 
> ...


the official Jet manual says 'use jet height gauge'. grrr. so far, 1/16" is what i'm shooting for


----------



## Bigrock (Apr 16, 2010)

Holbs said:


> *First Run*
> 
> First electrical motor, cutterhead, roller run was accomplished this morning. Success! No knives installed, no alignment of bed, rollers, etc as of yet. Added oil to the gear box too. Just wanted to ensure all parts did as they are suppose to, to date. One issue arose that confused me. The new bearing for the cutterhead malfunctioned, as in one of the bearing side walls magically disappeared somehow. No idea! Changed out to the old cutterhead bearing which seems to work as it should.
> 
> ...


Hi again:
On the subject of the speed control. My instruction that came with my machine, which is like yours, said never change the speed control except when the machine is running. If you are doing it with the machine it will probable not shift. Look on the Jet website and read that part about speed control. I never change mine except when I am doing skip planing to see what the wood looks like. Then I use the slow speed for a much better finish on the wood and it is easier on the machine. 
You are making good progress on this project and you are learning a lot about machines and how they work. I wish I was close enough to you to help, and you make me feel good to see you learning all kinds of new shills that you will need in the future. 
Have Fun.


----------



## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *First Run*
> 
> First electrical motor, cutterhead, roller run was accomplished this morning. Success! No knives installed, no alignment of bed, rollers, etc as of yet. Added oil to the gear box too. Just wanted to ensure all parts did as they are suppose to, to date. One issue arose that confused me. The new bearing for the cutterhead malfunctioned, as in one of the bearing side walls magically disappeared somehow. No idea! Changed out to the old cutterhead bearing which seems to work as it should.
> 
> ...


thanks rock  yea… found out you are to shift gears while the machine is running.
this is very different from a lunchbox planer, for sure. 
I'll admit, I am having a blast doing this teardown / rebuild. Has made me appreciate this Jet planer alot more than if I had not.


----------



## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*Installing knives and "trying" to align*

Came time to install the 3 knives. Thanks to the LJ forum for suggesting a 0.055" height of the knives from the cutterhead. I have a pair of the MLCS Jointer Planer Knife Setting Jig I found at an auction for $5. They work "initially" until it comes time to tighten the blade retaining bar. Then, the knives move between 0.005-0.0020 at that point. The MLCS jigs will work to get a rough dimension, and that's about it. So out comes the dual magnetic base dial indicators which give the 0.001 precision. Working on 15" knives is 2x's the frustration of working on 6" jointer knives. I have the outside of the knives set at 0.055" and thought I was all done. Nooooo's…. the middle area is as high as 0.060. Called it a night and will retry tomorrow.


----------



## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Installing knives and "trying" to align*
> 
> Came time to install the 3 knives. Thanks to the LJ forum for suggesting a 0.055" height of the knives from the cutterhead. I have a pair of the MLCS Jointer Planer Knife Setting Jig I found at an auction for $5. They work "initially" until it comes time to tighten the blade retaining bar. Then, the knives move between 0.005-0.0020 at that point. The MLCS jigs will work to get a rough dimension, and that's about it. So out comes the dual magnetic base dial indicators which give the 0.001 precision. Working on 15" knives is 2x's the frustration of working on 6" jointer knives. I have the outside of the knives set at 0.055" and thought I was all done. Nooooo's…. the middle area is as high as 0.060. Called it a night and will retry tomorrow.


If BOTH outside edges are at 0.055" and the MIDDLE is at 0.060", then I'd suspect that EITHER the knives are bent … OR when they were sharpened, they were ground with an arc


----------



## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Installing knives and "trying" to align*
> 
> Came time to install the 3 knives. Thanks to the LJ forum for suggesting a 0.055" height of the knives from the cutterhead. I have a pair of the MLCS Jointer Planer Knife Setting Jig I found at an auction for $5. They work "initially" until it comes time to tighten the blade retaining bar. Then, the knives move between 0.005-0.0020 at that point. The MLCS jigs will work to get a rough dimension, and that's about it. So out comes the dual magnetic base dial indicators which give the 0.001 precision. Working on 15" knives is 2x's the frustration of working on 6" jointer knives. I have the outside of the knives set at 0.055" and thought I was all done. Nooooo's…. the middle area is as high as 0.060. Called it a night and will retry tomorrow.


Joe.. they could be bent or sharpened with an arc. But I'll try again later today by using the MLCS planer jigs to set the blade 0.0020+ high and work 1 jib bolt from right to left at a time. I only did the end jib bolts (a total of 5).


----------



## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Holbs said:


> *Installing knives and "trying" to align*
> 
> Came time to install the 3 knives. Thanks to the LJ forum for suggesting a 0.055" height of the knives from the cutterhead. I have a pair of the MLCS Jointer Planer Knife Setting Jig I found at an auction for $5. They work "initially" until it comes time to tighten the blade retaining bar. Then, the knives move between 0.005-0.0020 at that point. The MLCS jigs will work to get a rough dimension, and that's about it. So out comes the dual magnetic base dial indicators which give the 0.001 precision. Working on 15" knives is 2x's the frustration of working on 6" jointer knives. I have the outside of the knives set at 0.055" and thought I was all done. Nooooo's…. the middle area is as high as 0.060. Called it a night and will retry tomorrow.


A straight edge should answer the bent/ground unevenly question. I didn't use dial indicators when I changed my 18" blades but I did start tightening in the middle and worked my way out. Not sure how important getting the blades absolutely perfect is as all your wood will get sanded after planing.

You are almost there! Thanks for taking us along.


----------



## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

Holbs said:


> *Installing knives and "trying" to align*
> 
> Came time to install the 3 knives. Thanks to the LJ forum for suggesting a 0.055" height of the knives from the cutterhead. I have a pair of the MLCS Jointer Planer Knife Setting Jig I found at an auction for $5. They work "initially" until it comes time to tighten the blade retaining bar. Then, the knives move between 0.005-0.0020 at that point. The MLCS jigs will work to get a rough dimension, and that's about it. So out comes the dual magnetic base dial indicators which give the 0.001 precision. Working on 15" knives is 2x's the frustration of working on 6" jointer knives. I have the outside of the knives set at 0.055" and thought I was all done. Nooooo's…. the middle area is as high as 0.060. Called it a night and will retry tomorrow.


on my 8" jointer, I keep the gib screws on the low points tight and just snug the high points good enough to hold it as I tap it down with a block of wood and tighten it. If you go too far just loosen it and start over.


----------



## Dutchy (Jun 18, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Installing knives and "trying" to align*
> 
> Came time to install the 3 knives. Thanks to the LJ forum for suggesting a 0.055" height of the knives from the cutterhead. I have a pair of the MLCS Jointer Planer Knife Setting Jig I found at an auction for $5. They work "initially" until it comes time to tighten the blade retaining bar. Then, the knives move between 0.005-0.0020 at that point. The MLCS jigs will work to get a rough dimension, and that's about it. So out comes the dual magnetic base dial indicators which give the 0.001 precision. Working on 15" knives is 2x's the frustration of working on 6" jointer knives. I have the outside of the knives set at 0.055" and thought I was all done. Nooooo's…. the middle area is as high as 0.060. Called it a night and will retry tomorrow.


I have seen a lot of planer knives and a lot of them are as JoeinGa says with an arc. You can control this by putting two knives at your window glass with both sharpe sides against each other. The light will show you if there is an arc. I bet there is.


----------



## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Installing knives and "trying" to align*
> 
> Came time to install the 3 knives. Thanks to the LJ forum for suggesting a 0.055" height of the knives from the cutterhead. I have a pair of the MLCS Jointer Planer Knife Setting Jig I found at an auction for $5. They work "initially" until it comes time to tighten the blade retaining bar. Then, the knives move between 0.005-0.0020 at that point. The MLCS jigs will work to get a rough dimension, and that's about it. So out comes the dual magnetic base dial indicators which give the 0.001 precision. Working on 15" knives is 2x's the frustration of working on 6" jointer knives. I have the outside of the knives set at 0.055" and thought I was all done. Nooooo's…. the middle area is as high as 0.060. Called it a night and will retry tomorrow.


I think my procedure of installing 15" knives is faulty. I'm treating them like 6" jointer knives: such a short distance that I can just work on the end points. I'll try the 'ol Bob Vaughn method of sitting the blade 0.0020+ high all the way across, snug the jib bolts slightly, and work 1 jib bolt tightening and measuring at a time, then move to next jib bolt.
Of course, I'll pull the knives out to re-start anyways and then I will check for flatness across the 15" on my 24"x24" granite engineer plate (again, another $5 auction item I picked up). *IF* there is an arc, does it matter of being off 0.005" or so?


----------



## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

Holbs said:


> *Installing knives and "trying" to align*
> 
> Came time to install the 3 knives. Thanks to the LJ forum for suggesting a 0.055" height of the knives from the cutterhead. I have a pair of the MLCS Jointer Planer Knife Setting Jig I found at an auction for $5. They work "initially" until it comes time to tighten the blade retaining bar. Then, the knives move between 0.005-0.0020 at that point. The MLCS jigs will work to get a rough dimension, and that's about it. So out comes the dual magnetic base dial indicators which give the 0.001 precision. Working on 15" knives is 2x's the frustration of working on 6" jointer knives. I have the outside of the knives set at 0.055" and thought I was all done. Nooooo's…. the middle area is as high as 0.060. Called it a night and will retry tomorrow.


Wow, this discussion sure makes me appreciate helical cutterheads with carbide inserts. I still have a three knife cutterhead on my jointer, but I upgraded my planer to a shelix, and have been very glad I did.

Good luck with the fine tuning.


----------



## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Installing knives and "trying" to align*
> 
> Came time to install the 3 knives. Thanks to the LJ forum for suggesting a 0.055" height of the knives from the cutterhead. I have a pair of the MLCS Jointer Planer Knife Setting Jig I found at an auction for $5. They work "initially" until it comes time to tighten the blade retaining bar. Then, the knives move between 0.005-0.0020 at that point. The MLCS jigs will work to get a rough dimension, and that's about it. So out comes the dual magnetic base dial indicators which give the 0.001 precision. Working on 15" knives is 2x's the frustration of working on 6" jointer knives. I have the outside of the knives set at 0.055" and thought I was all done. Nooooo's…. the middle area is as high as 0.060. Called it a night and will retry tomorrow.


Pint… sadly, i'm a hobbyist. If I go pro or get really really serious, i will get the $$$ and go shelix route. I have plans to but I still consider myself in the learning stage. Have not even YET hand planed a single board.


----------



## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

Holbs said:


> *Installing knives and "trying" to align*
> 
> Came time to install the 3 knives. Thanks to the LJ forum for suggesting a 0.055" height of the knives from the cutterhead. I have a pair of the MLCS Jointer Planer Knife Setting Jig I found at an auction for $5. They work "initially" until it comes time to tighten the blade retaining bar. Then, the knives move between 0.005-0.0020 at that point. The MLCS jigs will work to get a rough dimension, and that's about it. So out comes the dual magnetic base dial indicators which give the 0.001 precision. Working on 15" knives is 2x's the frustration of working on 6" jointer knives. I have the outside of the knives set at 0.055" and thought I was all done. Nooooo's…. the middle area is as high as 0.060. Called it a night and will retry tomorrow.


The knives will flex easily enough even if ground in an arc. Have never had a perfect set of knives after gettin them resharpened.


----------



## playingwithmywood (Jan 10, 2014)

Holbs said:


> *Installing knives and "trying" to align*
> 
> Came time to install the 3 knives. Thanks to the LJ forum for suggesting a 0.055" height of the knives from the cutterhead. I have a pair of the MLCS Jointer Planer Knife Setting Jig I found at an auction for $5. They work "initially" until it comes time to tighten the blade retaining bar. Then, the knives move between 0.005-0.0020 at that point. The MLCS jigs will work to get a rough dimension, and that's about it. So out comes the dual magnetic base dial indicators which give the 0.001 precision. Working on 15" knives is 2x's the frustration of working on 6" jointer knives. I have the outside of the knives set at 0.055" and thought I was all done. Nooooo's…. the middle area is as high as 0.060. Called it a night and will retry tomorrow.





> Pint… sadly, i m a hobbyist. If I go pro or get really really serious, i will get the $$$ and go shelix route. I have plans to but I still consider myself in the learning stage. Have not even YET hand planed a single board.
> 
> - Holbs


with the carbide cutters lasting longer and then having 4 sides for me the hobbyist i figured it has been the cost savings but then I put mine in a dewalt 735 since i am stuck with 110 volt tools


----------



## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*Nearing The End*

spent all weekend aligning things, probably with TOO much detail, but it's all I had to go from. The 15" knives are 0.55" (more or less) above the cutter head. Infeed roller, outfeed roller, chip breaker are 1/32" below the arc of the knives. Table rollers are 0.005" above table bed. I tossed a 2×4 thru, fully expecting 500mph kickback or nuclear explosion or generating a wormhole. But instead, out came shavings. Everything works. Tomorrow, installing infeed / outfeed wings and also figuring out about these extra bolts and stuff.. hmm..


----------



## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Holbs said:


> *Nearing The End*
> 
> spent all weekend aligning things, probably with TOO much detail, but it's all I had to go from. The 15" knives are 0.55" (more or less) above the cutter head. Infeed roller, outfeed roller, chip breaker are 1/32" below the arc of the knives. Table rollers are 0.005" above table bed. I tossed a 2×4 thru, fully expecting 500mph kickback or nuclear explosion or generating a wormhole. But instead, out came shavings. Everything works. Tomorrow, installing infeed / outfeed wings and also figuring out about these extra bolts and stuff.. hmm..


Thanks for taking us on the journey Holbs!

Great job buddy.


----------



## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

Holbs said:


> *Nearing The End*
> 
> spent all weekend aligning things, probably with TOO much detail, but it's all I had to go from. The 15" knives are 0.55" (more or less) above the cutter head. Infeed roller, outfeed roller, chip breaker are 1/32" below the arc of the knives. Table rollers are 0.005" above table bed. I tossed a 2×4 thru, fully expecting 500mph kickback or nuclear explosion or generating a wormhole. But instead, out came shavings. Everything works. Tomorrow, installing infeed / outfeed wings and also figuring out about these extra bolts and stuff.. hmm..


Good stuff. Hope you weren't serious about extra nuts and bolts.


----------



## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Nearing The End*
> 
> spent all weekend aligning things, probably with TOO much detail, but it's all I had to go from. The 15" knives are 0.55" (more or less) above the cutter head. Infeed roller, outfeed roller, chip breaker are 1/32" below the arc of the knives. Table rollers are 0.005" above table bed. I tossed a 2×4 thru, fully expecting 500mph kickback or nuclear explosion or generating a wormhole. But instead, out came shavings. Everything works. Tomorrow, installing infeed / outfeed wings and also figuring out about these extra bolts and stuff.. hmm..


Just a tip in case no one has ever told you …

When I first got my Dewalt 735 I placed it near the open garage door and sent a few boards thru it. What was coming OUT looked like the exhaust from an F-15! Do not ( I repeat… *DO NOT *) stick your hand in that exhaust!

And when you have stripped a machine like that down to bare bones, you probably CANT pay too much attention to detail when re-assembling it … Good job !


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Nearing The End*
> 
> spent all weekend aligning things, probably with TOO much detail, but it's all I had to go from. The 15" knives are 0.55" (more or less) above the cutter head. Infeed roller, outfeed roller, chip breaker are 1/32" below the arc of the knives. Table rollers are 0.005" above table bed. I tossed a 2×4 thru, fully expecting 500mph kickback or nuclear explosion or generating a wormhole. But instead, out came shavings. Everything works. Tomorrow, installing infeed / outfeed wings and also figuring out about these extra bolts and stuff.. hmm..


This has been quite the odyssey for you. The one fringe benefit you have is that you now are intimately acquainted with the planer and will understand how to solve any future problems.


----------



## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Holbs said:


> *Nearing The End*
> 
> spent all weekend aligning things, probably with TOO much detail, but it's all I had to go from. The 15" knives are 0.55" (more or less) above the cutter head. Infeed roller, outfeed roller, chip breaker are 1/32" below the arc of the knives. Table rollers are 0.005" above table bed. I tossed a 2×4 thru, fully expecting 500mph kickback or nuclear explosion or generating a wormhole. But instead, out came shavings. Everything works. Tomorrow, installing infeed / outfeed wings and also figuring out about these extra bolts and stuff.. hmm..


Good work! I knew you would prevail. Thanks for taking us along. Hope you were kidding about the leftover nuts, bolts, and parts.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Holbs said:


> *Nearing The End*
> 
> spent all weekend aligning things, probably with TOO much detail, but it's all I had to go from. The 15" knives are 0.55" (more or less) above the cutter head. Infeed roller, outfeed roller, chip breaker are 1/32" below the arc of the knives. Table rollers are 0.005" above table bed. I tossed a 2×4 thru, fully expecting 500mph kickback or nuclear explosion or generating a wormhole. But instead, out came shavings. Everything works. Tomorrow, installing infeed / outfeed wings and also figuring out about these extra bolts and stuff.. hmm..


Fantastic! Funny about those "extra bolts". I've had that happen before, but, if nothing falls off, you're in business..


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Nearing The End*
> 
> spent all weekend aligning things, probably with TOO much detail, but it's all I had to go from. The 15" knives are 0.55" (more or less) above the cutter head. Infeed roller, outfeed roller, chip breaker are 1/32" below the arc of the knives. Table rollers are 0.005" above table bed. I tossed a 2×4 thru, fully expecting 500mph kickback or nuclear explosion or generating a wormhole. But instead, out came shavings. Everything works. Tomorrow, installing infeed / outfeed wings and also figuring out about these extra bolts and stuff.. hmm..


I still have the infeed / outfeed wings to install, motor cover, power box bolts… i'm not concerned of extra bolts as of this moment. I have to research the height of the wings in relationship to the lower table before installing. 
Once I'm all done, would this be considered a "LumberJocks Project" that I should place in the project section? Or is that a nono?


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Holbs said:


> *Nearing The End*
> 
> spent all weekend aligning things, probably with TOO much detail, but it's all I had to go from. The 15" knives are 0.55" (more or less) above the cutter head. Infeed roller, outfeed roller, chip breaker are 1/32" below the arc of the knives. Table rollers are 0.005" above table bed. I tossed a 2×4 thru, fully expecting 500mph kickback or nuclear explosion or generating a wormhole. But instead, out came shavings. Everything works. Tomorrow, installing infeed / outfeed wings and also figuring out about these extra bolts and stuff.. hmm..


Technically it's not "made of wood" so not a project. But those of us who have followed along will stick up for you if anyone starts whining about it!


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## measure2wice (Mar 3, 2015)

Holbs said:


> *Nearing The End*
> 
> spent all weekend aligning things, probably with TOO much detail, but it's all I had to go from. The 15" knives are 0.55" (more or less) above the cutter head. Infeed roller, outfeed roller, chip breaker are 1/32" below the arc of the knives. Table rollers are 0.005" above table bed. I tossed a 2×4 thru, fully expecting 500mph kickback or nuclear explosion or generating a wormhole. But instead, out came shavings. Everything works. Tomorrow, installing infeed / outfeed wings and also figuring out about these extra bolts and stuff.. hmm..


I just stumbled on your blog today. I have the same Jet planer and am working on it now although not doing a "frame off" resoration like you. Nice job!


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Nearing The End*
> 
> spent all weekend aligning things, probably with TOO much detail, but it's all I had to go from. The 15" knives are 0.55" (more or less) above the cutter head. Infeed roller, outfeed roller, chip breaker are 1/32" below the arc of the knives. Table rollers are 0.005" above table bed. I tossed a 2×4 thru, fully expecting 500mph kickback or nuclear explosion or generating a wormhole. But instead, out came shavings. Everything works. Tomorrow, installing infeed / outfeed wings and also figuring out about these extra bolts and stuff.. hmm..


any questions, i'll be happy to help. I had to do the 'frame off' restoration due to the excessive rust on the beds, columns, bearings, etc. it was fun.


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## measure2wice (Mar 3, 2015)

Holbs said:


> *Nearing The End*
> 
> spent all weekend aligning things, probably with TOO much detail, but it's all I had to go from. The 15" knives are 0.55" (more or less) above the cutter head. Infeed roller, outfeed roller, chip breaker are 1/32" below the arc of the knives. Table rollers are 0.005" above table bed. I tossed a 2×4 thru, fully expecting 500mph kickback or nuclear explosion or generating a wormhole. But instead, out came shavings. Everything works. Tomorrow, installing infeed / outfeed wings and also figuring out about these extra bolts and stuff.. hmm..


Your help just might be needed, thanks. Mine was pretty rusty as well but it sat inside a spec house that never got finished for 3-4 years so it had some protection. So far its looking good.


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