# Easy Wood Tools vs 'Traditional'



## ScrubPlane (May 22, 2012)

I started turning again a couple of years ago after a thirty year hiatus and at the advice of several friends I purchased the Easy Wood turning tools.

Has anyone tried and rejected the Easy Wood tools in favor of traditional turning tools, and if so, why?

I apologize if this question is redundant as I did post it some months ago, just thought I'd try for more feedback.

THANKS…


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## stevepeterson (Dec 17, 2009)

I have 2 carbide tools from a different vendor.

One is square shaped with a square shaft. It does a decent job roughing the outside of bowl blanks. It does make small chips instead of shavings and leaves some tearout so it needs to be followed with another tool.

The other tool with a round tip and round shaft is supposed to work for hollowing the inside of bowls. I have never been able to use it without catches.

I received a really good bowl gouge when I bought a used lathe and prefer it over the carbide tools. The square carbide tool was useful when I was learning, but I rarely use it any more.


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## lumberjoe (Mar 30, 2012)

They both have their place. HSS is so much sharper (if you can sharpen it correctly). I like my easy rougher for grunt work. It does a quick and dirty job. I also like my easy finisher for finish work. When I am done shaping and crank the lathe to sanding speeds and take super light passes with the finisher. I can generally start sanding at 320 grit.

I would ever want to be without my traditional HSS gouges and skews though.


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## Wildwood (Jul 22, 2012)

Bought this Shear scraper and two extra cutters month or so back. Making a lot of end grain vases and wanted to clean up minor & major tear out. With only limited experience with carbide tools not thrilled.

http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=packard&Product_Code=108810&Category_Code=tools-srby-shear

http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=packard&Product_Code=108810C&Category_Code=tools-srby-shear

http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=packard&Product_Code=108811C&Category_Code=tools-srby-shear

I did follow instructions provided and tried sharpening with my diamond card file. Actually, did better clean up with traditional scrapers and pull cut with my bowl or spindle gouges.

Whether problem is me, the tools, or wood working with cannot say. Easy Wood tools have a better reputation but cost lot more than I spent for essentially two tools in one.

If want a tool for roughing do not expect it to provide an excellent finish on all wood surfaces. Get a finishing tool for that purpose. So other than buy both types not much can add. No carbide tools will not replace traditional turning tools.


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## ScrubPlane (May 22, 2012)

LumberJoe…I 'feel' like I should migrate to the traditional tools at some point and while I've worked with gouges and 'scrapers' in the past, what would you consider to be a good estimate learning curve for a skew? thanks…


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## ScrubPlane (May 22, 2012)

Steve…

I also have the round bladed 'finishing' tool and have had some nasty catches as well. Seems like they occurred when I was trying to be too aggressive and the blade needed rotating.

thanks…


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## poospleasures (Aug 7, 2011)

I will speak in favor of the carbide tools. I have not had formal training with turning tools and do find the carbides are a lot more forgiving than a bowl gouge which I can use on occasion but do feel hesitant because of some earlier catches. With practice I am able to get a fairly smooth finish with the carbide and a little use of a scraper usually start sanding with 150 paper. I know some turners think this is not the way to go but I say whatever gets the result you want is the way to go. Most of the folks who have commented on my bowls seem to like them. Take a look at my projects to see what you think. Keep doing what makes you feel good.


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

I use carbides (18mm square and round cutters) for roughing work. Once I get close to where I need to be, I switch to the HSS tools for cleanup and finishing cuts.

Using the HSS gouges, scrapers, etc. is like anything else … the more you practice the better you get.

Full disclosure: I have taken some classes and belong to two turning clubs. I would heartily recommend finding an AAW-affiliate club in your area … in my case it has paid big dividends.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/3231

http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/3664

Some good discussion at the links.


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## rhford (Aug 28, 2013)

Like several of the other posters, I own both EWT and traditional carbide and HSS tools. I like the EWT tools for the heavy stock removal (square ends) and initial smoothing (round ends). I use my standard tools beyond that point.

If you do decide to buy EWT tools, do yourself a big favor and buy replacement cutter heads from Cap' Eddie Castelin at www.eddiecastelin.com. His parts are every bit as good as the EWT ones and WAY less expensive.

Ron


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## ScrubPlane (May 22, 2012)

Thank you one and all for your thoughtful suggestions. I think much of what has been written ultimately falls under the heading of personal preference with few absolute 'right or wrong' answers.


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## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

I have several interchangeable carbide tools, The one I like best is from Capt Eddie, loads cheaper and you get more bits. 
The lion share of the work is going to be HSS bowl gouge and scraper though, the Easy Wood turning tools just don't remove enough material so I use them to finish out and to give a final smooth over.


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## Thuzmund (Dec 9, 2013)

One thing I've noticed is that beginners instinctively start "shoveling" out wood in ever-deeper ditches or coves. But when I watch instructional videos or experienced friends, I notice that they often "peel" wood in a much more decisive and aggressive manner, sometimes even starting a bit "inside" the top lip of a cylinder, so that in a couple cuts they shear off exactly what they want. It's quite efficient and I'm not sure if you can or can't do that sort of thing safely with scrapers. I'm still just a beginner myself, so I'm not really sure if my observation is right and there actually are two types of cuts that are inescapably different from one another. If there ARE two different types, you will be then limiting yourself to just one type, at least in theory. Also, remember that HSS sets do include a couple scrapers, which are sharpened the same way as carbides, just much more often.

I don't know enough about turning to offer more than my own experience: I find it easier to shovel than peel as a beginner, but it seems like peeling should be the ultimate goal.

More beginner banter (take it all with a grain of salt):

0. (goes without saying) The learning curve on scraping is nothing compared to chisels. You'll have very fast access to a solid first month of turning, instead of doing a lot of studying or frightening experimentation. 
1. Since I still find it safer and more secure to shovel rather than peel, I don't really miss out on the peeling action of the chisels. (I mean, I definitely miss out because I can't do it yet, but any $$ towards peeling would be wasted since I'm not peeling yet.) 
2. I do 90% of the work with just one or two chisels, because I'm not good with all the tools yet. If that one tool were a scraper, I suppose I'd have 90% of the functionality of my HSS set in a single tool, right?  Until I wanted to get ahold of some chisels anyway. 
3. After a few hours of shoveling, I noticed that I can do something in between, like taper down one way and the peel it flat going the other direction. I can do this with scraper-type tools, just not as deep as I've seens folks do it with chisels. So therefore, you can probably assume that you can do a bit of light peeling with those scrapers. It's not really an all-pr nothing proposal between the functionality of the two types of tools, but it may become increasingly lop-sided over time and you learn to use chisels differently and the carbides do the same old thing.
4. I have used the PSI Versachisels and written in other posts how they allowed me to go just a tad bit beyond my skill level. Scraper-type tools do seem easier for my beginner hands and knowledge to handle than bowl gouges, etc. I have used the carbide-type inserts and they are indeed easy for beginners to use. 
5. If you're afraid of sharpening chisels and this is pushing you towards the carbides, know that it's damn hard to sharpen by hand but very easy to sharpen on a bench grinder. Just carefully find the angle that the manufacturer left for you and be light about it. It's really a cinch to get functional, sharp chisels, even for a beginner like me!


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

I'm not sure I understand the shovel vs peel analogy but I have noticed there is a decided difference between production turners and others. Watching an experienced production turner is amazing, the moves are aggressive yet elegant and precise; like a dancer.


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## RolfBe (Jun 7, 2013)

I much prefer using a quality HSS tool over the carbides. 
Since putting together a rather expensive sharpening system and learning the proper way to sharpen and most importantly use my tools the finishes that I am getting are amazing.
A couple of other factors I am a member of a turning club and I have been watching lots of youtube videos.
The series that Wildwood turned me onto http://vimeo.com/woodturning/videos and my friend Steves
http://www.youtube.com/Thewoodturningshop really go a long way in teaching you about wood grains and cutting directions. 
Good quality Sharp tools are critical


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## JollyGreen67 (Nov 1, 2010)

Carbide is for hogging out - HSS is for the finishing.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Actually I find that steel tools hog out much faster than carbide while leaving a cleaner surface.


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## ScrubPlane (May 22, 2012)

OK…for those who prefer HSS turning tools, aside from the parting and any specialty tools, what do you consider to be your 'go to' tools to include sizes and any special grinds? Why?

Again…thanks, John


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## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

I just got a basic set sold an any woodworking store, like woodcraft. I ordered a small set for detail, mostly 1/4 inch stuff. I still use a carbide to cut endgrain and to polish as a last step. Depends on the wood and what works.

A good sharpening system is a must with HSS, or you'll get hurt real fast. Sharpen often even if it's just a zip across the cutting edge. I use a wire brush to get rid of the paste that builds up first.


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

ScrubPlane-1" roughing gouge, 1/2" and 1" skews, 3/8" spindle gouge, 5/8" bowl gouge.


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## ScrubPlane (May 22, 2012)

thanks Dane…


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## woodtickgreg (Nov 11, 2009)

Here's my 2 cents. I use both, kind of depends on what I am doing. I do like traditional bowl gouges for some things. I started using a ewt carbide rougher just to try one out, this was after learning to use and sharpen traditional tools. I was immediately sold on the concept for several reasons. I did not have to think about riding a bevel or bevel angles. When roughing the tool rest took all the beating and virtually eliminated the chance of catches or at least reduced the severity of them. I just keep the tool rest close and the speed cranked up, carbide likes high speed. I can cut right, left, or straight in and just watch the form of the project I am making. Over the years I would say that I have switched to using carbides more, they are safer, and they allow me to concentrate on my work form and not the tool. They can be sharpened with a diamond card file as well so they really last a long time. 
About carbides? This imo is where most people make the big mistake and get turned of to carbide tools, they try and save 5$ on a cutter and by the cheaper ones, you get what you pay for. What makes a cutter superior? The grade of the carbide and how fine it is, and the back or relief angle. Most carbides are just variations of metal cutting carbides, they work but not great. I have tried carbides from just about all manufacturers and I still find ewt carbides to be the best, there tough, razor sharp right out of the package, and have that all important back angle, and are micro grain carbide, and made in the usa. When I hear folks saying that their carbides are producing excessive tear out then something is wrong, like inferior cutters, to slow a speed, a dull cutter, etc. Good sharp carbide tools are a joy to use, imo. 
Now I am not saying that any one tool is the best, I still use both but the carbides more often. I say to do whatever works for you and makes your turning experience more enjoyable.
Most who know me also know that I make and sell carbide tools. I have gotten a lot of positive feed back from the folks who have purchased them from me. They say how it has increased the speed of some of their turning procedures and just made it more enjoyable, Isn't that what it really is all about?


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

My problem with carbides is they are scrapers, and require a good deal more sanding to get the finished surface that I want. I use them occasionally for roughing (you can hog off a lot of material quickly), but for finishing cuts I still go to the HSS.

"Never scrape when you can cut."
-Mike Mahoney.

One of the best turners in the business is a fellow named Mark Sillay ( http://marksillay.com/ ) ... he teaches his students to do 'wood slicing', not wood cutting or wood scraping.

woodtickgreg is right about speed … the faster the lathe is turning, the better the cut. Turning at too low of a speed is not only boring, the cut is rougher and requires more sanding. The only thing worse than cutting too slow is cutting with dull tools.

There is a good rule of thumb for lathe speed: diameter in inches times speed in RPM's should equal 6,000 to 9,000 (e.g. a 10" bowl spinning at 800 RPM = 8,000).

Above all else, never turn at a speed that you do not feel safe working at … it is not worth the risk.


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