# Titebond I II or III?



## Adam_D

Last time I bought glue, I decided to go for the mid-grade titebond II. Is it really that much better than titebond I? Am I missing out on some great feature of titebond III? I haven't had any joints come apart yet…anyone die-hard fans of one or the other? Is titebond original good enough?


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## cabs4less

I use tite 3 in my cabinets not cause of the water issue cause a tight joint with finish applied is water resist anyway but i like it 15 min open time for door glue-ups but I use tite1 for everything else in my cabinets


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## bondogaposis

I generally use TB2 for most applications but when I want a waterproof bond or a longer set up time I go to TB3.


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## NiteWalker

I used to use TBIII exclusively, mainly for the open time and lower working temp.
Since I do my glueups indoors now, and since open time hasn't really been an issue, I use TBII now. It works great and costs less. I don't bother with TBI because TBII is only pennies more and has the additional benefit of being water resistant.


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## Edziu

Adam, Titebond is not sold like gas. The three types Titebond I (red label) is the original, fine for any interior work or furniture. Titebond II (blue label) is Weather resistant, meaning it can get wet, like a cutting board for example. Titebond III (green label) is Water-proof, meaning it could be used for an outdoor furniture piece or anything 'Above the waterline.' I recommend TB III because it's the most versatile, allows you a longer open time, and is a tad on the more liquidy side (runny) which means it spreads easier.


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## Loren

I use white glue for interior work. Common yellow 
glues creep more. The right glue depends on the work
you do. For heirloom quality work I would never use
yellow glue in glue joints. I maybe unfairly biased based
on past experience. There are 100s of glue formulations
on the market and perhaps a dozen available through 
home centers. In reality the glues you can buy retail
are not what is used in manufacturing where quality control
from piece to piece matters.


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## RussellAP

I like that Gorilla glue better. Ever try it?


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## Adam_D

crap-I used titebond 2 with some biscuits joining some pieces to make bigger stock…is it going to just disintegrate sitting outdoors this summer? I'm assuming the cedar will keep the moisture away from the glue for the most part. Maybe I'll have to get a small bottle of TBIII before I start assembly.

Russel, I use Gorilla with my mortise-and-tenon joints just because mine are never perfect and I want to fill in the gaps. No problems so far.


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## GlennsGrandson

Really *Loren* you use white glue, like elmers glue, on interior stuff? I'm relatively new to all of this so I'm just curious as to what the reasoning is behind this instead of using wood glue. How does it hold up, how is the strength?

Not trying to criticize, genuinely interested, thanks!


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## crank49

Aren't they all PVA; white or yellow.

I thought white, as in Elmers brand, was just basic PVA glue, the same basic glue as the yellow stuff with the difference being that the yellow formula was modified to be thicker and set up faster.

I normally use TB3 because I wanted the water proof feature and because it sets up a little slower, like the plain white stuff.


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## Ken90712

I'm a big fan of III I use ot on cutting baords all the time. What a strong joint as well.


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## waho6o9

I was considering purchasing Titebond hyde glue. Any thoughts?


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## DS

Titebond Hide Glue, like all hide glues can be "reversed". Meaning it can be unglued with a little heat and moisture. This is handy sometimes, like in making violins and such, as it makes repairs feasable.


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## NathanAllen

Love TBII Dark for Walnut and Cherry.


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## Finn

I make artsy crafty items. Small cedar boxes etc. and I use white glue. For outside stuff (Like signs) I use titebond III. I like the white glue because it set up quickly, dries clear, is plenty strong and is cheap.


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## JoeLyddon

TB III here…

That Hide stuff sounds interesting… haven't used it yet…


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## ShaneA

TB II for my last gallon, because it was cheaper than III. Plus I typically dont build outdoors projects.


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## GCotton78

It really depends on what I am doing. I have been going through a lot of glue lately because I am working on a couple of larger than normal (for me) projects…so I have been using TB II, and some leftover TB I that I had on the shelf. However, I have found that the open time of TB III is very helpful when assembling more complex projects that I have made. 
I have only used the Titebond glues so far, and I have found that regardless of the grade, it holds impressively. I gain more confidence in it with every new project.


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## SnowyRiver

I use TBIII for just about everything. I will use the polyurethane glue if I have a complicated glue up that requires a lot of time to put it together.


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## TCCcabinetmaker

I use titebond III, mainly because I won't have to worry about which bottle to use when.

Titebond I is a white glue, there are several woodworkers glues that are white, They even have a titebond molding and trim glue that dries clear…

I used to use titebond II (yellow glue) but switched to III because it is just a little better, though I doubt that there's alot of difference in bond strengths.

Be specific in saying gorilla glue, yes they do have a woodworking glue, but that's NOT what they are known for….


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## Edziu

Adam, you mentioned that your mortise and tenon joints are not always perfect, so you use gorilla glue to fill the gaps. I'm sorry to say but Gorilla glue is not structural for gap filling. All Gorilla glue is is a glue with a great advertising campaign. If you need to fill gaps, look for an epoxy with a filler additive. I suggest West Systems with the cotton microfibers for a filler.

I see you are from Rochester NY, next time you are in the Buffalo area, stop into the Rockler Store. They can set you straight on glues and their uses.


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## Loren

White glue has a longer open time which makes complex assemblies
less nerve-wracking. It might be an overstatement to say that
most professional studio furniture makers prefer it, but many 
prominent ones do. Titebond sets too fast for many assemblies
involving solid wood, leveling the piece to an assembly table, 
and lots of clamps. Having your glue set too quick can mess 
up many hours of work.

The yellow color is a dye, but usually when people talk about titebond
they mean the yellow glues which do well in outdoor applications. 
The color alone does not indicate formulation. Both white and
yellow glues are usually PVA glues with different formulations for
specific qualities. Many amateur builders are looking for a quick set
because they aren't doing precision joinery in fine furniture pieces.

Some formulations are heat-curable and used in hot presses. I 
have a hot press for edging and I am researching glues for it. 
research indicates Titebond 2 is a retail version of a hot and cold
press glue made by Franklin sold in 5 gallon and larger quantities. 
Just because the glue works well in hot and cold press lamination
applications (edge gluing and veneering basically) does not mean
it excels in joinery. I'll never use 1 glue for everything.


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## Boxguy

Adam,

Not to complicate the discussion too much, I use Tightbond Molding and Trim glue on the boxes I make. Because it doesn't run much, it lets me spread it on joints and in spline slots and then clamp them together without having the glue run all over small parts. I especially like putting a little glue in 6 or 8 slots and then spreading the glue out with a brush when I am ready to insert the splines. It is a real time saver. Remember to coat both faces when gluing with this.

One note of caution. You will have to make a holder to keep the bottle of trim glue upside-down between uses and applications. It takes waaaay too long for it to flow to the spout otherwise. I use a simple block with a small hole for the spout centered on a larger hole for the cap part. And remember to put that small white cap back on at the end of the use or you'll have a real mess!


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## DMIHOMECENTER

FWIW, the ready-made hide glues (including Titebond) have a shelf life of about a year… and that's if you keep it inside (away from hot and cold extremes). So be sure and use it if you buy some.

Great stuff and very strong. I'd say the strings of an instrument apply much more stress at all times than a fat man on a dining chair's mortise and tenons. As said above, inside use only… and it has the ability to be removed and reset. Don't ask me how I know this ;=)


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## Tomj

Titebond 2 and 3 is good enough for building bows but on fiberglass bows or bamboo backed bows I prefer smooth on ( it must be cured at 160 degrees) and for bamboo backed bows Urac 185 which I heat cure at about 100-110 dgrees but I have used titebond 2 for glueing many bows together that have shot atleast 1000 shots, have only had one bow brake and that was the first one I made. Titebond three is preferable if the joint might undertake some wet conditions. As for titebond hide glue, most bowyers I know would only use their own mix hide glue although I know some that have used it successfully in bows. I tend to only use gorrilla wood glue in a situation where I want a so-called clear drying glue. I'm still learning when it comes to building furniture though (bows too) you could never stop learning right?


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## Adam_D

For those of you that claim that I need Titebond III for outdoor use: The titebond II bottle says "ideal for exterior applications" right on it. It also says "weatherproof", "FDA approved for…cutting boards", and "ideal for outdoor furniture, birdhouses, and planters".

As far as I could tell, the only advantage of titebond III was the extended glue-up time. I just bought another bottle of Titebond II.


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## craftsman on the lake

Having made guitars years ago, the advent of the yellow glues (titebond) over the white glues (elmers) was a godsend as yellow glues are sandable. Try sanding white glue and it just gets shinier as the wood around it erodes.

Both are good glues though and hold well.


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## Bertha

RG told me the other day that Titebond III will fail when used in outdoor furniture joints, despite it being waterproof. He recommended using II in that instance. I've been using III exclusively for as long as I can remember.


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## Tennessee

Agree with Craftsman on the lake. I like the fact that III is slower and works in a wider temp range. I have not used a white glue in a couple decades, to be honest.


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