# phase conversion, keep my lathe?



## restored (Sep 2, 2012)

I wish I new how to change the text so this would be easier to read. Why, because I need some much needed advice, opinions, and sharing of others knowledge. I hope I can condense also so I don't go on for ever.
Currently I own a Powermatic #90 Lathe that I rebuilt a few years ago. I changed the 1 HP 3 phase motor to a 1.5 HP Dayton. Probably my first mistake. But not having 3 phase in my shop it seemed like my only choice. 
I started turning about 5 years ago on a 12" Jet and was hooked. I wanted some larger a real machine. My back ground is a design build remodeling contractor, and a let's say unpolished cabinet maker. My basic understanding of electricity is basic. My understanding of motors is less than basic.

I have decided that I want to be able to turn at least a 20" bowl. Here are my issues. I believe my PM was built in the 70's. P M built this model with a # of varying speeds. Not knowing but the basic things to look for in a nice hunk of iron, I wasn't educated about the speeds. The lathe has a Reeves drive that runs smooth. The only issue is that at times if I have the speed at 1000rpms, the drive will walk faster and pick up RPM's. It is something I have lived with, as the thought of pulling the motor and dealing with the spring and belt system again, and the fact that it doesn't do it all the time, like I said I live with it. This machine weighs close to 800 lbs. When I put a close to 12" piece of green wood already rounded on the band saw, which isn't balance perfect, the first 5 to 10 minutes of truing up is a real adventure. It will walk the whole lathe a foot and a half until I'm true. The 800 rpms x the centrifugal force due to the weight, increases the the actual energy immensely Of course I have the tail stock right up tight, and I typically do use a face place with screws. After hitting true, I keep the speed on 800. I have never experienced any type of bogging down.

I have a couple choices as to accomplish my dream of settling for a minimum swing of 16" on the inboard side. I have spent the last 4 to 5 months searching every day for a larger lathe, with the low speed and the increase swing. This hunk of iron is 50 years old and strong as an ox. I wonder how well a 16" Nova with the DVR speed control I desire will be a machine I will be passing on to my grandson.

My budget is around 2000.00 plus the proceeds from the powermatic, of which I'm asking 1200.00. Do i keep what I have, change the motor back to a 3 phase 220 motor, and purchase a VFD converter (I realize there is also rotary and static, of which I would love your opinions and knowledge) Will I be able to slow the speed to 200 rpms, with the reeves drive set at a low speed of 800, Will the converter override the Reeves drive, if I run something like a foot speed pedal. If I can do this I would then look at purchasing a heavy duty P M outboard turning rig and attach it to the 90 with welding, brackets or connectors of some type, so it can be removed. This part from P M is in the 500.00 range. Can I do this. Issues reeves drive , belt system, the clutch system on the reeves. I have thought about mounting the motor inside the cabinet. Can I find a belt the right width, and increased length. Am I dreaming and the engineering to do this is a crap shoot.

Do I wait continue to save my pennies until I can afford my dream lathe. A One Way 2436. I also love the Powermatic 2035. With the prize tag of 4000. 00 it is still out of my price range. I'm not whining, but my days of working for myself are done, as I'm had both my back and neck restored with rods and a total of 10 screws with fusions. I had a wonderful surgeon in Boston. I can stand up, and turn for 3hours at a time twice a day. I'm hooked. It's great mental therapy and I'm grateful I have found it. I have a 1450 SF shop with nice machines. It was my retirement plans. Walking by the lathe without putting on it is difficult. I am allowed to make about 1000.00 a month beyond my disability. Which I need to do, and do it this my is my first choice.

Rework my 90, keep looking and buy used. Keep saving and buy a jet 16" OR similar. Does anyone have any input on grissly's, Baliegh's, Luguana, etc. Then any input on converters. If I do this should I increase the size of to accommodate other machines that i might purchase. This has been a way of survival. Jointers are the machine I can find at reasonable prices, clean up, adjust the beds if necessary, sharpen and reset the knives and resell. I have 3 6" ,, in my shop know. I need the help of electrician's machinist, turners. Rotary vs. VFD, Do I need an additional motor to send the 3 phase power to a new 3 phase motor. Or does the drive or converter take the existing power and convert it to 3 phase. So far I'm sold on the VFD. It seems like it draws the power on a more consistent basis. Able to hold 60HZ. better than the rotary. I'm out of my league when I say this, but I have interpreted the 60 HZ to be the power the motor is putting out, and there can be a number of reasons that the motor is not able to maintain that, and bogs down. Please correct me and clarify. A voltage drop can cause this. I have seen a Makita skill saw turn at about 100 Rpm's being on the end of 200 ft. of extension cords which were plugged into the last outlet on a circuit about 100 ft from the panel, and who knows how many interruptions in the line. I knew it would be long, may not even be accepted. But I do need as much help and experience opinions to help me decide what direction I should commit to and follow through. Thanks to all of you for reading.

Nothing is impossible to the man who doesn't have to do it himself. rf


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## Mike82352 (Dec 23, 2014)

I would go with a VFD. If you still have your 3ph motor, and it's a 230/480 volt, even better. The VFD will allow you to go from 0 - 60hz or 0 - 1750rpm's or whatever your motor rpm is. Most motors can be ran to 90hz. without any trouble. You can get VFD's that take a 110 volt input and get 230 volt 3ph out. Most 110 volt Vfd's go up to 1.5-2hp. For larger motors, you may need a 220 volt input? I installed a VFD on my lathe and I have one on my mill machine.


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## bonesbr549 (Jan 1, 2010)

Ok, as someone who loves old tools and had to get 3 phase, I went through an education to say the least.

I would say if you only plan on ever having one single 3 phase tool, then go with a VFD.

I went with a RPC, because of two reasons. First, I have multiple motors that will use 3-phase, and second, wanting as close to balanced true three phase as possible, due to the equipment I am running, I went with a 10hp RPC. If you decide you want a RPC, remember the idler motor (generates 3rd leg), hp rating is more than it can provide. A 10hp model, will give you 7.5hp at 3-phase.

I can Highly reccomend American Rotary Phase converters. Great guys to deal with and they don't look down on newbies.

Good luck.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

I think I would convert your existing lathe to 3 phase (with a VFD, skip the other stuff in your instance) and wait for the time to get your dream lathe, whatever it turns out to be. Besides, by waiting you just may fall upon a used dream lathe that can save you some money. the 2436 doesn't show up very often, but you never know. I've seen maybe 2 or 3 in the last few years come up for sale.


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## REO (Sep 20, 2012)

the vfd will get you speed control for a reasonable cost and the least investment of time. Not really 0-xxxx because the motor looses torque as the rpm decreases and there is a danger of ineffective cooling at slow speeds. less than 30 Hz for continuous load is questionable. Not the power rating of the motor but the frequency of change in the AC current. most AC motors are of the synchronous variety which means they will run unloaded at a given rpm depending on the poles 1800 or 3600. the nameplate rating tells you what the speed will be at rated hp 1750 OR 3450. Hp is a consideration of speed and torque. As speed is decreased so is available torque. what the VFD does is vary the Hz to vary the speed of the motor because the motor wants to run synchronously with the Hz of the electricity being delivered to it. the RPC it will not give you speed control. DC is a viable choice if you want performance from 0- max without pulley changes, torque is still lost at slower speeds but not as noticeable as ac variable speed. In all cases the best option is to use the pulley changes with some sort of VS technology for wide speed variation and high torque transmission. your machine is a nice piece of equipment it can be modified to take a group of pulleys and even a jack-shaft for deeper lows and higher highs if you wish. The dancing lathe can be dampened with additional weight etc.


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## Bill7255 (Feb 23, 2012)

I have a PM 90. I know that they made these lathes with two different speeds, one 1000-4000 and 500-2000. Mine is the 500-2000 speed version. There were also two different motor mountings. I have the one with a jack screw (I think that is what it is called). I changed my motor to a 1ph 220V 1 hp Dayton. This was easy as both motors had the same frame. The motor I bought off eBay, but looked it up on Grangiers and it listed for over $400. Should be a good motor. I have had 0 problems. I am not exactly sure the benefit you think you will gain going back to 3ph, unless you think it will solve the speed problem. I have never had my lathe walk like you have, however these lathes are top heavy. You could try putting weight in the bottom of the cabine such as sand bags. Agree with other posters on waiting to get the lathe you really want.


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## baldric (Dec 13, 2014)

I think the only problem slowing a motor down, is the cooling of the motor,
its working quite hard but the fan is going slow!


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## restored (Sep 2, 2012)

I believe what I'm hearing is just about the same from everyone. Bill, I'm not sure If you understand some of my concerns. Actually I have seen P M 90's since with low speeds down to 300. I could very well be wrong but P M produced more than just 2 speed ranges when making this model. The centrifugal force difference at 300 RPM's is huge. Yes I can add weight, attach to the floor, I realize this will hide some of the vibration. However the 40 lb. chunck of wood is still spinning at 800 RPM's. If added weight was the answer to the problem, then why are all the top top lathe manufacturers been making great efforts to reduce the speed, some as low as 0, while maintaining the the power and torque ratio's to be correct. With that said I believe we are all agreeing on the same course of action. The cost of a new or used 3 phase motor to fit this machine can be had for reasonable money. Lets not forget I will still have a basically new 1.5 single phase Dayton The members who have dealt with the conversion of, I know have a better grasp of the electricity than I do. REO, you are way over my head but I am hearing bits and pieces. My questions moving forward. I'm pretty much convinced going back to 3phase is the only safe and practical way to continue to use this nice hunk of metal as it was intended and more. I don't believe it was made to turn 12" bowls especially in a high school. Spindle turning upward to 6 and 8 " diameters yes. This is the main reason why I haven't put any real time or money into the outboard side yet. What I am having trouble understanding. First , I buy the 3 phase motor, I don't believe I should go below 1.5 hp, and it wouldn't hurt to increase to 2 hp if I'm set up to turn 20 + inches. I purchase a VFD converter. I do have a business contact that this is all they do. They did supply the first motor and even installed it in the machine for me for only their cost of the motor which was around 220.00. So between here and there I will need the help to purchase the proper size diverder. Am I wrong in assuming to oversize on both motor and VFD. Easy to have and not need then need and not have. Cost does play a part in this, but I have bought older planers up to 30" and jointers, and a large band saw at auction that were all 3 phase. I resold. A couple pieces if I had 3 phase I would have kept and sold my single phase machines. With a rotary phase converter I also need a motor with this, Y or N. How in which the lathe operates with it's need to draw different amounts of power in second intervals, can a VFD be used on the out feed side of a rotary phase to produce a cleaner current for the lathe? Or would this be an absolute foolish waste of money, or if it is the cleanest power to the lathe hook it up separately. Second set of questions is concerning the reeves drive, and how it's current low of 800 and high of 4000, does the VFD over ride or ignore the rpm numbers on the faceplate. It was 3 phase when I got it. What do I need to do to the lathe itself to with it's current setup to achieve what I want. I have given this much thought and what I do know, is I know what I want. I would like to bbe smart and logical about the whole process, but in the end if I have spent 3 to 4 hundred more and have got what I want, That's fine. If I pick up the phone in the morning and call nova, and order their top of the line 2024 with an outrigger for outboard turning. am I going to have a better lathe, besides the fact that I can;t turn a baseball bat or the legs are so ugly I cringe looking at it. But I know form follows function. Reo the one place I am realy lost is your explanation of the HZ. used and lost. I was under the impression the VFD was the convertor that best dealt with this. Increasing HP help with torque. Cleaner poer to the motor help with torque. Not having a great understanding I have come across many different opinions about what is in the new machines, converting single to 3 phase. So even inside the dozens of models they all have different set ups themselves. This is more complicated than talking to 3 different mechanical engineers and designers on the best hot air system is and how to install it. That is like going to the doctor to get a second opinion. it will be different. Thanks to all so far, please don't stop. Has anyone have a buddy who turns on a vega or stubby bowl lathe? A lathe very similar just came up this morning claiming to turn up to 2 and 3" bowls, ( speeds 2 HP. thats all I know. The worst salesmen in the world are those selling their lathe. What more do you need to know it's 40" long. Go Patriots, lets, take the air out from the Sea Hawks.


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## crank49 (Apr 7, 2010)

I have not done this myself yet, but have read and studied and seen YouTube videos of using a VFD designed for running a 3 phase motor actually running a single phase motor. 
You apparently just use two legs of the drive. 
You still have all the features of the VFD like speed control, soft start, electronic braking, RPM display, etc.
The voltage in and out is programable.

Caution, the above comments about cooling are important. 
I would still keep the multi speed mechanical drive and use it to get to the really low speeds in combination with the VFD output. that would give you the best of both worlds. 
Higher torque at low speed and electronic speed adjustment and feedback control.


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## REO (Sep 20, 2012)

There is no reason to use a RPC or phase converter AND a VFD. The VFD takes in the power you supply, turns it into DC current internally for the electronics and then outputs AC to the motor. AC power is Alternating power its voltage swings from positive to negative and back to positive so many times a second. Here in the US it does this sixty times a second…60 Hz. In Canada they use 50 Hz. If you take a motor that runs 1725 (1800 synchronous) and plug it in in Canada you will get about 1440 rpm (1500 synchronous). this is what the VFD does it changes the Hz of the output to the motor to change the speed. This is in a nutshell description. There are settings in some VFD's that will try to maintain constant torque through the speed range but they too become iffy below about 30 Hz (speeds below half the rated speed) and require a better insulation class on the windings. you can also increase the speed over rated RPM by feeding a higher HZ into the motor IE: 120 hz from the VFD will make the motor run 2x the rated speed at 3450 when you are using an1800 rpm rated synchronous motor.


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## Nubsnstubs (Aug 30, 2013)

The VFD controls the rpm of the motor. It has nothing to do with the reeves drive. When you start up, your motor might turn at 200 rpm, but if your Reeves drive is set at 800, your actual RPM is going to be much lower at the spindle. When PM made the lathes, whether the motor is 1725 or 3450 rpm, it was an instant start to designated rpm, but spindle rpm is reduced because of the difference in pulley size from motor to spindle. If you keep your Reeves drive, then you get a whole lot more reduction with the VFD. You wont gain any rpm, but you can reduce it. Confused yet? I know I am… Jerry (in Tucson)


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## crank49 (Apr 7, 2010)

Just to be clear.
I was *NOT* suggesting using the phase converter and the VFD. 
I *WAS* suggesting keeping the Reeves variable speed drive and using it with the VFD in combination.

But, the main point I was trying to make was that a three phase VFD will run a single phase motor, so the OP would not have to find and install his old motor or buy a new three phase motor.


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## Mike82352 (Dec 23, 2014)

I installed a VFD on my lathe, I found a 1 1/2hp 3ph motor on ebay for $50 shipped. I already had the VFD. I kept the Reeves drive, this allows me to run a higher hz at slower speeds and not heat up the motor. I have used a VFD on my Mill machine for several years with no issues.


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## REO (Sep 20, 2012)

Crank49 I understood your post. Restored asked about using both. Keeping the reevs drive is good too I was suggesting that if he wanted to really get down to the basement he could add a jack shaft with MORE pulley ratios.


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## JamesVavra (Apr 27, 2009)

I actually bought a VFD and a 1.5HP 3-Phase motor to modify my old Jet 1442VS. It had a reeves drive to do variable speed, and I planned to setup the VFD to run at a few different speeds - basically the opposite of how most of the bigger lathes are setup.

I also wanted to change the way the motor was mounted, since it was in the way most of the time.I got the VFD programmed, but never fabricated a new motor mount.

In the end, I wound up buying a bigger lathe (the Rikon 70-450). I still have the VFD and motor and would be willing to sell them if you're interested.

I know you're looking at the Oneway eventually, but have you seen the new lathe that Grizzly just announced? It not shipping yet, but they've got crazy good introductory pricing. It's a 22" swing lathe with a 3HP motor and it's currently priced at $1700, including shipping. It is not a Oneway by any means, but it seems like a heckuva deal.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/22-x-42-Variable-Speed-Wood-Lathe/G0766

James


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## JamesVavra (Apr 27, 2009)

For anyone that's interested, I found links on eBay to exactly the motor/VFD combo I have. These aren't my listings. If anyone wants them, I'd do $325 for the pair + shipping (UPS from 37206). I'll also throw in the cabling I bought for it - I think it's around 12 feet of the super-flexible, rubber coated 10/4.

This is the VFD: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-220V-1-5KW-VARIABLE-FREQUENCY-DRIVE-INVERTER/151250904435

I just checked the motor: It's a 2 HP Baldor. Brand new - was custom built for some specific job and has a 10" shaft. http://www.ebay.com/itm/231475424824

James


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## Bmezz (Aug 12, 2014)

Hey Reo. AC in Canada is 60hz. We also have street lights and inside plumbing. 
+1 on VFD. I have a Delta 1460 with a 1hp 3ph motor and a VFD. Works great. I try not to run it for too long at really low speed but have never felt the motor getting hot. I was nervous about VFD install but once I got into it it was a no brainer. My 2 cents….1 1/2 cents Canadian. 
Cheers, Bob


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## REO (Sep 20, 2012)

LOL sorry I thought that Canada was 50 Hz. Several pieces of equipment I have installed that were purchased from Canadian companies were set up with 50 Hz electrical components. I shoud have doug a little deeper and realized that they were manufactured in Poland , China and Germany. Street lights AND indoor plumbing now that is News!


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## restored (Sep 2, 2012)

Thank you all for your help. I have a much better grasp, of the entire concept. Dave I owe you an apology, my lathe the PM 90 is listed at 1000 to 4000. Maybe when I reassembled, I could have made a mistake that has worked to my benefit. I can turn the Reeves lever below stop and the machine reduces speed dramatically. I had never lowered it to stop before while running for fear of stopping the motor instantly (told you I have limited mechanical ability REO) I had moved the lever below 1000, and could hear the drop in rpm. I went out and removed the back cover exposing the belt, thinking about a different motor location and set up. I turned the machine on and dropped the speed to the low that I have always run on, I slowly continued to slowly move the lever towards stop, although I could hear the continuous drop in rpms, being very close to stop, it wasn't going to come to a complete stop, I continued slowly and continued further. All while noticing the rpm drop by ear. I was able to go about 1.5 inches past stop which is a clockwise turn, and the machine still dropped in rpms. While researching I found my first LJ help request for opinions on phase motors with thi machine. I also saw some info about a interior type reduce switch that was mounted inside on the reeves housing or close to and along will my neighbor, who taught HS woodshop, wondered what and why this was in there. I am still wondering but have seen a couple post mentioning a similar item used. SO I know my Rpms have dropped considerably below what the low was before. I did a fair amount of research on digital readout rpm detectors or tach's. A few different names are used. I purchased one from a Company in Texas whom I believe owns Shop Smith and use these on a couple of their machines. I didn't buy the first cheapo tht appeared on ebay and did go to a turners forum bout this very issue. In fact the tach I bought which was about 140.00 with shipping is one a couple Canadian clubs bought and share. Their general consensus is have a 10 minute simple set up, they use the tach for a few days, and purely by sound, another member or wife, states the rpms which are showing on the machine, and everyone has stated they are within 5 to 10 rpms and often on spot. One member actully hooked this up to his computer, with a graph print out with the various rpms and centrifugal forces at various speeds with different species of wood with varying degrees of moisture. I have no problems with one being-----, can't think of the right word. Let's keep it at interesting. I expect the tach to arrive any day, and I'll be able to get a better idea of what rpms my 90 is poducing at the low spot. Because of all your help, your probably all going to want to kill me. I continued my hunt and found a machine which is very comparable to the stubby made in Australia, and the Vega made here in the USA. A machinist converted metal lathe converted to a bowl lathe only. An old SHELDON. It has a 2hp dayton 2 Gears both with 9 adjustable speeds. The low is probably 5rpms on the low gear, and I would guess between 50-100 on the high gear. The Gentleman I bought from has had for 30 years plus. claims he turned bowls up to 36" showed me a few 24" gems. The head stock is 1.5 inches nd 8TPI, so I don't need to change any of my chuck inserts. I have both the 100 and 125 Hurricanes. I am disappointed for I can't find a larger set of cole jaws from huricane for the 125, which is the same size they MADE once for the 100 of which I own. That;s another issue. The lathe came with a very well done tool rest and banjo 3.5, chrome finished turning post weighing in at about 200 lbs.with a very nice top,and 14" tool rest' Honestly it makes the old PM outboard turning post look like sissy's. the foot print is about 28" square and weighs just about what I paid at 1.00 a pound lathe only 600.00. That is the total cost. I also was giiven a dozen cocabo pen blanks, s3 laminated mahogany and birdseye maple 3- 1.34 tiers 14" round and over 5" thick after the flat laminating. Should make 3 nice bowls. As well as a couple other good size boxes of various hardwood blanks 1/2 already band sawed round from 1.5 thich up to 3" thick, most in the 10 to 12 " bowl size. You all know the ones, the cost about 10 to 20 @ at Rockler. Where I'm at is I'm waiting for the tach. to arrive. I need to go back and pick up the lathe with some help. About a 100 mile trip one way. Now I don't need to sell my PM unless I get top end money. Then buy a nice solid midi. I do enjoy turning pens etc, and this is only a bowl lathe . Mounting a bed and tail stock on the bowl lathe is in my plans, The cast iron sides of this mchine are at least 1/2" thick, so plenty strong. Some of the pre made ones are reasonable, A bed extension and a riser block on a older tail stock can be done. So my PM faceplates on the the top of the bowls will get more use, and my larger chuck for more gripping power will also, but the speed can be lowered. The only draw back is the lever location which is bout a foot off the floor, and has a set pin for each speed position. I will need to play with it and see if the pin is necessary or something he has done for saftey, or if I can move with y foot, with the speed walking due to vibration. Jack I believve I may be interested in your motor and VFD also. To discuss can our own personal emails be listed or phone #'s within the rule. Thanks to all of you. I will forward better photos later with the tool rest post. Thanks to all, I will keep you posted , have been shoveling snow up here in NH. after knee surgery 2 weeks ago. Sorry but so I don't loose this I will post photo's later< don't remember my bucket name and password. I only have about 40 different user names and passwords. When I get back to you, I'll let you know what I had for dinner last night.It was good that I remember. Thank you


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## JamesVavra (Apr 27, 2009)

That bowl lathe sounds pretty awesome - I'd love to see photos when you get it home. Feel free to email me directly at [email protected]

James


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## restored (Sep 2, 2012)

I believe I have the photo bucket taken care of. I had to make the drive a couple days after it was posted, which was during one of our storms. Two others had called and I new if I didn't it would not last for this amount of money. At least in my eyes, the price was a steal. The outboard turning post alone would warrant 300.00 compared to the many I have seen listed, that don't come close to this one. Of which I don't have photo's of yet but I did take with me. Trying it's taking me to my album. I will need to study the process of attaching photos with this post to view the 3 I have in one album I have try going to restoredoct10. The day a couple neurosurgeon's got out their Dewalt drills and restored my back using a hand ful of titanium screws and rods. As well as a high tech dremel and did a couple lapterictomy's. It's spelled wrong,but it's the removal of the back section of the bone channel which wraps around your spinal column which connects to the vertebrae.Then used that bone and did 3 fusions with the other sections that also needed to have a little restoration work completed. I would highly recommend these 2 surgeons to anyone. I can now stand at my lathe or on the concrete floor for 3 to 4 hour intervals before I need a break as long as I move around a little. New England Baptist Hospital in Boston. Knowing that I work with wood, these guys actually did show me the hand drills they use to do these procedures. It was a very interesting to see as well as the hardware also. Along the same lines as the same fastening systems they use. I realize this is way off subject, but they were telling me that most of the designers of medical surgery tools are designed through the communication between doctors and the watchful eye on the wood working tool industry, in the development of the equipment they use. Anyways if you can locate the photos would one of you jocks out there let me know. And when I bring her home next week I will post a number of better one's. may help come of you out with ideas with not just scrapping that big ole metal lathe. This ws done and the owner said the dust and shaving have new been an issue in the 30 years he has owned it. He sid he did open the covers evry week when he was running it most days and blow it good. The other nice feature is the middle of the headstock is hollow all but for the last 1/4" where the chuck spins on. So setting up a vacuum system can be down easily without harming the strength of the spindle. No need to try and weave something through the gears and into the spindle. Hope you can all find the first set of pictures.


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## restored (Sep 2, 2012)

1 of 3 anyways, I'll wait and see if you guys know how to access the other 2.


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## restored (Sep 2, 2012)

REO, without ully understanding this machine has the reeve and the jack shaft. I know there is at least 3 pulley's and geared down enough it would pull a whole team of Clydesdale's.


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## restored (Sep 2, 2012)

Thanks to everyone, Bill, REO,Bones and everyone else who has helped with advice. The whole concept has been much easier to understand, or have a tiny grasp of from all of you. After 35 years of Design / Build remolding for myself with enough employees, and raising 2 boys, there was never enough time to try and learn everything. If it had to be done, and it needed a license lets get the right people here and get it done. Now I have a little more time to try and absorb the electrical and basic physics of machines. I told the teachers in High School I was never going to need this, I had to take it. Well, I should have listened. Thank you everyone. When I get the Bowl lathe home I will post a bunch of pictures. It is a beauty.


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## restored (Sep 2, 2012)

Finally got this bowl lathe home a couple weeks ago. Took me almost a year. A couple health set backs. I am still hemming and harring about my powermatic 90. My low speed is about 800 after all this. I want to put a VSD on the machine. The motor people are telling me opposite of many here. Converting single phase to 3 phase and then back to my single phase motor is not possible. After reviewing all the post, I'm getting the feeling I can. What they did say that made sense was with any vsd to make sure that it can handle twice the amps that the motor is labeled at. It has been so long and different ideas, on my part, I know the motor is 1.5 HP. I didn't write down the mounting bracket, rpms, amps nothing. I have also thought about changing the motors location to inside the cabinet, searching for a reeves drive with a low ratio of 250. One way or the other I think I need to start by taking the motor out, and seeing exactly what I have. Now that I have had the machine for some time, I have a much better understanding of all the different suggestions. I hope it's as simple as installing a vsd. Either way I think I need to remove the motor to get the spec's so I purchase the right size unit. I will post more pictures of this bowl lathe now that I have it home. This will be fun, both in using and designing a system to attach a back side set of ways with a tailstock. It has been used all these years with only a chuck, since the low speed is about 20. The old buck said he never had a issue. I have yet decided where to place it in my shop. I need to take measurements, to see how high the centers are on both the machines. Thinking I may be able to add a small section of ways on my #90, and flip my tailstock around, for a little added safety. I kno the machines are close and I could mount to the concrete floor with solid wood platforms to get the centers perfect and fasten the machines also. With a good size chunck on the 90, the it does do a little walking.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

> I hope it's as simple as installing a vsd. One way or the other I think I need to start by taking the motor out, and seeing exactly what I have.
> - restored


Yeah, that would be a good start  But if you are looking at using a VFD on that single phase Dayton motor, it's not going to happen.

Cheers,
Brad


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## JamesVavra (Apr 27, 2009)

You can use a VFD on many single phase motors - split capacitors or shaded pole. You cannot use a VFD on a regular, capacitor start motor. Here's a link to one that does just that: http://www.invertekdrives.com/variable-speed-drives/optidrive-e2-single-phase/ (this was one of the first hits off of a google search for "single phase output VFD).


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

I would be hesitant to assume you can use a 3 phase drive on a single phase motor. Many have too many sensing circuits; might see it as single phasing and trip out. A dedicated single phase drive would be a better bet.


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## JamesVavra (Apr 27, 2009)

You don't understand what I'm saying - they make VFDs that output single phase for a single phase motor. A VFD varies frequency; they can also output a different number of phases, but they don't have to.


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## REO (Sep 20, 2012)

Yes they do make single phase to single phase inverters! they have been around for a while. I am not aware of what the cost is now but it was cheaper to replace the motor with 3 ph and get a 110-3ph inverter in the past.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

Yup, they make them if you are using the proper type single phase motor. I wired one in a community center for an air handler about 20 or 25 years ago.


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## ibewjon (Oct 2, 2010)

all very interesting ibewjwjon


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