# Finish for Red Oak



## nailhead49 (Jul 18, 2009)

I'm going to use Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac (Amber) for base then put General Finishes Antique Walnut Gel Stain on next with a top coat of Wipe-on Poly. (Going to cut the Shellac to 2 lb). Does anybody see any problems with this? I want to thank you in advance because I sometimes forget to do so. Thank You
ps. It's Norms Library Table.


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## beckerswoodworks (Dec 26, 2009)

Make sure to use de-waxed shellac and you should be fine. Polyurethane finishes can peel if applied on top of shellac that hasn't been de-waxed.


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## fireone (Jan 6, 2010)

David,

I don't see the need for shellac. For many years I have had great results from using Minwax stains wiped on and Minwax polyurethane varnishes applied with a good brush applied on well sanded (220 grit final) red oak. "Special Walnut" and "Fruitwood" are my favorite shades of stain on red oak. I lightly sand with 400 grit in between 2-3 coats and for a final satin finish rub out with 0000 steel wool and lemon oil.

Good Luck!

TJP


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## doyoulikegumwood (Jun 21, 2007)

this is the right thing to do if you have allot of color veryation. it will allow you to even out the color well


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## wisno (Feb 26, 2010)

Agree with David. 
I prefer to use stain without any wax then followed with the Polyurethane sealer and top coat. to even the color we can do with sap stain and equalizer stain. 
But this method need to do with spray system, do you have the facilitation to do that?


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## CaptainSkully (Aug 28, 2008)

I think that recipe sounds great. The amber shellac will create a warm undertone beneath the walnut gel stain. This gives depth to the finish that you can't get with Minwax & poly. It should make the red oak very rich looking, as red oak has dramatic grain structure. Make sure to do a test piece before committing. Depending on how much you cut the shellac, you may not have much time to do more than wipe it on before it starts to tack up. I've been compiling finish recipes here: 

Is this the project you're working on?



P.S. Dusty makes some of the most beautiful red oak stuff on LJ's. I think his recipe is on here somewhere.


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## nailhead49 (Jul 18, 2009)

Thanks for the response, but now I'm confused, first I don't have spray system. also Don said Polyurethane can peel sometimes with wax shellac. I was going to cut the Shellac to 2 lb or should I go to 1 lb? I was going to go with a recipe I found in American Woodworker called Golden Oak: 1. J.E.Moser's Wizard Tints honey amber dye to the bare wood 2. Seal with shellac & scuff-sand 3.Glaze with Minwax walnut gel stain 4. same as 2 5.topcoat of choice. but the guy at woodcraft talk me out of it & go with the recipe I posted. I've been woodworking for a while, but never perfected my finishing, not to smart on my part. What I want is a worm look & the grain high-lighted dark. Again, thanks for all the help. David


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## doyoulikegumwood (Jun 21, 2007)

well dave don't despair you can go with the golden oak method as well actually on my first post i was going to suggest you do something under the shellac.

but you know what they say about opinions if you don't have it and want to expand your knowledge on finishes i would get my hands on bob flexners book a ton can be learned there but both methods that you are looking to use will work just fine remember to let each step cure tho

good luck 
Jason


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## Viking (Aug 26, 2009)

David;

+ 1 for the Minwax stain/sealer finished with 2-3 coats of the Minwax Poly. Great durable finish and saves you the shellac step. All our cabinets at the ranch are knotty alder or red oak and they really look nice.

Good Luck!


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## nailhead49 (Jul 18, 2009)

Jason, I actually have a book by Bob Flexner, "Understanding Wood Finishing" I think I'm going to go with what I wanted to do in the first place, go with the recipe in American Woodworker, I think, maybe, I don't know. Thanks for all the tips, you guys are great.
David
Sacramento


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## Stevinmarin (Dec 24, 2009)

The shellac is basically a sealer coat to freeze the wood fibers before applying a top coat. I've had pretty good results simply cutting polyurethane 50/50 with mineral spirits and slopping it on as a sealer coat.

But lately I've been getting away from poly and using lacquer on almost everything. It's just a lot quicker.


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