# Is there an easy way to adjust countertop height?



## mcg1990 (Nov 11, 2014)

I've spent the last couple of days building some base cabinets for the shop, but sadly they're not level due to being built on sloppily poured concrete (also my fault).










As you can probably deduce; I'm recessing my mitre saw into the tabletop. The plan is to eventually have all kinds of T-tracks and stuff going on, but right now I just need a good level tabletop.

The top is made out of two 3/4" sheets of ply laminated together. As the top is >8' long I've had to make it in parts, so although SketchUp doesn't show it, the mitre saw recess actually extends to the back of the bench and the table is split in two. They're both independent from each other.

But now I get to laying the tops on the cabinets I find that they're not level. With themselves or with each other.

Is there any hardware in existence that are essentially adjustable mounting brackets for cabinet tops? Something that I can get underneath and tweak with a screwdriver to adjust the level.

Thanks


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## johnstoneb (Jun 14, 2012)

Kitchen cabinets are shimmed at the floor until they are level and lined up. No floor is ever totally level.


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## mcg1990 (Nov 11, 2014)

Aye, sadly these are the first cabinets I've built though, and I've made sure that I can't do anything like that.. I think I have to tackle the problem at the countertop itself.

So far all I can think of is using levelling feet to get it where I want it, then use L-brackets to secure it in place. Does anyone else have a more elegant solution?


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## Bigun (Aug 24, 2014)

Shim cabinets at the floor and screw them together and to the wall. Solid top and less likely to warp.


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## canadianchips (Mar 12, 2010)

As *johnstoneb* and *Troy* said. Shim them at the base. Any other readjusting is going to look crooked and be weaker. Thats just how it is done !


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## crank49 (Apr 7, 2010)

Are they (the base cabinets) anchored to the floor and/or wall?
If they are, you might have to do what you were talking about; adjust the mounting of the top.
Otherwise, I'd be shimming the bottom; even if I had to remove a bunch of screws in the back.

If you absolutely have to adjust at the top, perhaps you can install a level, co-planar, apron on top of the inside perimeter of the base frame. Then set the top on this apron and trim the gap or fill it with something.


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## Ghidrah (Jan 20, 2015)

If it's the kick area your worried about you can always cut a façade. In new construction cabs are often installed prior to the und. layment so the shims are hidden. On older homes the house has had yrs or decades to settle/go mental, so if the und lay is already there a thin façade can be applied to cover the gaps.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

All concrete has a slope for drainage.

Build a big ol rectangular box and make it level where you want your cabinets.

Fasten to the concrete, lay ply on top and then secure your cabinets to the ply
and the wall and your done.


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## mcg1990 (Nov 11, 2014)

I'll do my best to shim the box that I built the cabinets on, but if I do have to end up shimming/finding hardware to adjust the top, can anyone suggest any products or rigs?


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

If it is not too late, build a ladder frame. Level it and anchor to the wall. Then place your cabinets on top and screw them together.

There is a lot more info in my blog that details our kitchen remodel.
http://lumberjocks.com/MT_Stringer/blog/42062

Good luck.
Mike


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## jak77 (Jan 31, 2013)

Never fasten cabinets on two planes. Houses move. Enough movement will tear apart your cabinets.

Assemble flat boxes across the top. The top will be completely supported this way. Shim the boxes at the floor or use adjustable legs and then scribe the kick to fit the floor.


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## joey502 (Mar 30, 2014)

Can you shim in between the cabinet and the top itself? 
Do you have a picture of the cabinets you can post? 
Is the unit one long cabinet or smaller cabinets joined together?


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

> Aye, sadly these are the first cabinets I've built though, and I've made sure that I can't do anything like that.. I think I have to tackle the problem at the countertop itself.


What does this mean? Are you cabinets not all the same height?
Are they separate units?
If not, how did you build them?

Either way, leg levelers will solve your issue.

Scribe the toe kick to the floor and you'll be good to go.

I used these.

If you can't do that, then you can scab a cleat to the sides and level them off.


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## SirIrb (Jan 12, 2015)

As stated above: dont tweak the tops, tweak the cabinets. Even if you have a huge gap at the bottom you can run base over it and hide it. But everything therein will always be dead level like the bottoms of drawers.


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## kenhouston (Jan 15, 2015)

Cabinet maker showed me years ago how he does it. Lay the cabinets on their back. Line up the tops. Screw the sides of the cabinets together. Now as one big assembly, stand them up. Screw to the wall. Shim the base. Cover the gaps. And don't use the old wood shims. Get the engineered wood shims as they will not compress with age.


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## skatefriday (May 5, 2014)

Bob Lang recommends building separate bases, lay the base down, shim it level
and then place the cabinet on top of the base. The base forms the toe kick area.
I've made four cabinets that way so far. None of them are installed yet. 
I'll let you know how it goes.


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

> Bob Lang recommends building separate bases, lay the base down, shim it level
> and then place the cabinet on top of the base. The base forms the toe kick area.
> I ve made four cabinets that way so far. None of them are installed yet.
> I ll let you know how it goes.
> ...


Along with your thought, install the toe kick on the frame before setting the cabinet. Much easier than laying on the floor later.


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## mcg1990 (Nov 11, 2014)

Thanks everyone. Sadly I'd gone too far in on my poor design and had to rig the top with L-brackets. It's poor, but at least I learnt the lesson on shop furniture.


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