# Fix for RIDGID R4512 table saw fence



## freixas

I've had problems with the RIDGID table saw R4512 fence and I've seen some complaints from others. The problem is that, when locked, the fence is not parallel to the blade (or the miter track). So I decided to spend some time trying to figure out the problem.

I performed every adjustment in the manual with no success and I took the fence completely apart to try to figure out the problem. Here's what I think is happening.

When the fence is not locked down, there is a little bit of play in it. This comes from the gap between the T-end of the fence and the edge of the table. There's an equivalent gap where the T-end fits into the groove on the rail.










Trying to reduce the gap so as to eliminate this play just locks down the fence so that it won't move or won't move easily.

In theory, the play shouldn't be a problem. As the fence is locked down, the T-edge should be pulled toward the table. This should eliminate any gap and also straighten the fence. The problem is that the rubber grip on the far side of the fence locks down the fence in whatever position it is in before it can straighten out, so the fence stays at whatever crooked angle it is in.










In the above image, the fence is not aligned properly. Clamping it down doesn't change the orientation at all.

My solution (we'll see how well it works in the long run) was to replace the T-end of the fence with a home-built version that has no play. Here's what it looks like:














































The new T-end has a piece that fits into the rail groove with little play. This piece is made from a sandwich of wood and UHMW plastic. When this piece is in the rail slot, the edge of the T-end touches the edge of the table. Now, when I slide the fence, it remains parallel to the blade even when the fence is not locked down.

As shown in the last photo, I was able to move the plastic distance cursors from the old T-end to the new one.

I made this T-end from 1/2 MDF. Portions of it are routed down to 1/8" thick. The UHMW-wood sandwich fits into the rail guide and there is a thin piece of wood that spans the small gap from the top of the sandwich ot the bottom of the MDF.

This is a hack, but it seems to work OK. I'll know more after I use it for a while. I hope this helps someone having the same problem I had.


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## crank49

Now if you could just figure out how to make the blade stay aligned with the miter slot after you change the height, I'll owe you, big time.


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## freixas

@crank49: I just saw some threads with a discussion on fixing that problem:

See http://lumberjocks.com/topics/58529

and http://lumberjocks.com/topics/57166


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## keninblaine

Nice job freixas. I like the research and creativity.


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## lepelerin

Thank you for the fix and let us know how it works after some use.


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## lepelerin

So this evening I had some free time and decided to "align" my fence. 
Based on your analysis I checked my fence and I had a similar gap. I decided to go the easy way first. I put an adhesive piece of low friction tape (UHMW) on the piece of plastic (on the T-base) that glides inside the groove. Boom, the gap was gone. I can consistently lock down my fence with 0.001" of inaccuracy. Good enough for me.

Regarding the blade alignment, I noticed when you adjust the blade height if you leave the lock knob loose your blade won't be aligned. If I tighten it up the blade is aligned. It works on mine all the time.

So now I do have a fantastic saw. Fence properly aligned, blade properly aligned. What to ask for. A Grizzly G0715P


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## freixas

@lepelerin: Fantastic!

I thought of using the UHMW tape and would have tried it, but didn't have any (I almost bought some in my last order to Lee Valley). I first tried to remove the gap by adding a thin piece of UHMW. I kept sanding and sanding it down and never got it thin and even enough. Plus I didn't have a good way to fasten it down. It's good to know the tape worked for you and I'd recommend others try that first. I love the simple solutions.


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## Kurty

freixas,
Very nice work buddy, I always have a mic in my pocket so I mic the front and the back to the fence then lockdown. The lazy mans approach. Hey, did you make that zero clearance or buy it? I have done both, and they both took quite a bit of time to get them flush with the table surface.

Kurty


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## lepelerin

This is the Lee Valley UHMW tape that I used. I used it on some jigs, this is a fantastic product that does not wear at all. Really worth the $12 for 18'.


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## freixas

@Kurty: Yes, I made the zero clearance insert. I just kept routing till it fit.  It did take a while to make and I don't know that it's perfectly flush, but it seems to be close enough that it's not been a problem.


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## anneb3

Zero clearance insert

I don't remember just where I read this but it was such a good idea that it bears repeating.

Make your insert a little shallow in depth. Then use a bead of plumber's putty under the edges of the insert.
Push the insert down til level. I tried it and it works like a charm. The putty sets up, but does not stick to the insert or the saw. I did my project, lifted the insert off and used my finger to remove putty.


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## DW833

Hi freixas,

How has the new T worked on the saw? Is it still an improvement over the original fence setup?


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## freixas

Hi, DR833! Yes, it's working fine! It has been staying parallel to the blade without any problem. I used it to build a project (sandpaper storage) where the pieces had to come out nice and square so that everything lined up. And everything did, even though I never bothered checking the fence alignment! Personally, I would try leperlin's solution (above) with the UHMW tape if I were doing it over, but only because it involves a lot less fussy construction work. In any case, my adapted fence is a thousand times better than the stock fence, And RIDGID could fix the fence with just a small tweak…


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## tvrgeek

Very old thread, but relevant. Curious as I have not had issues with my Ridgid fence. Seems some have issues, some do not. When installing a set of MJ splitters, I noticed it was getting a little off where it used to lock without any movement.

Now I am considering a saw upgrade and fences come front and center. One thought was an Incra that seems to have some attributes, but it would mean none of my jig designs that "ride the rail" would work. Any solutions for that? An add on box on the top? Most saws I am looking have a Bies' or clone fence except the standard fence no one wants on the SawStop. Instead of their upgrade, what are the other best of the best solutions? A digital readout is not too expensive for repeat cuts but the Incra system sure LOOKS nifty. It would move the repeatability of my tenon jig to the fence.


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## tvrgeek

Just went out and checked to see why I don't seem to have as much issue. If you move the fence by the lock lever, ( mine is a slightly newer version, but same basics) then you get the gap and when it locks, it moves. Mine will square pretty well, but not dead on. I don't do it that way. I put my palm on the end of the beam and push while I slide. Guides stay dead on. Where it fails is if you try to use the micro adjuster or bump in place. You have to be quite diligent. Certainly not a Vega, but then again, I paid $550 for the saw on sale.

I do have some teflon tape I might give a try.


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## RobS888

I had one and eventually gave it to Habitat for humanity. I found that pressing down on the head reduced the movement of the fence. Rigid actually sent me parts for 3 fences over a couple of months.


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