# End to end joinery advice



## Nirav (May 2, 2020)

Hi all,
I'm looking to make a wood wall as a feature in my office. The idea is to have 3/4" x 3/4" white oak strips, oriented vertically, floor to ceiling (9 ft), with 1/2" gap between each strip. 
I'd rather not try to rip 9ft long strips, I just don't think i will be able to do it accurately. Thinking it would be easier to work with shorter strips that can then be joined end to end to create 9ft long strips. Best advice on how to do this? What kind of joints?


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## bilyo (May 20, 2015)

You don't say what tools you have to work with. If you have a table saw or band saw, you should have no problem ripping 9' strips. Even with a circular saw (skill saw), using a long straight edge guide strip, it should be doable. 
If you are convinced that you can't do it, the most aesthetically pleasing way to join the shorter pieces would be a simple scarf joint. I assume the strips will be glued to the wall. If so, a simple butt joint would also work but, would not look as good.


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## Nirav (May 2, 2020)

Sorry, my fault. I have a table saw, band saw, circular saw, jig saw. I just don't have a great outfeed for the table saw. I thought about the track saw, but obviously don't have a 9ft track. How do you control the 9 ft long board on the table saw to get a consistent width? How do you prevent it from wandering away from the fence as you feed such a long board? Is there a particular way to set it up?


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## John Smith_inFL (Dec 15, 2017)

how wide is the wall ?
what kind of table saw ?
if it is lightweight, like a contractor's saw, it must be secured
somehow to prevent it from moving.

get 2 helpers to help you with the project.
it can be done safely and efficiently with two extra people.
that is a LOT of cutting for just one person.
finger boards and push sticks would be required.
make sure your riving knife/splitter is set up correctly.

as a side note: I hope you understand the complexities of wood movement.
after you get all those strips cut, it is a very huge possibility that when they
lay around for a period of time, they may start to wiggle, warp, twist, wrack,
and get ugly. and installing them on drywall without support will be the next hurdle.
you might want to cut a few test strips first - before tackling the whole job at one time.

.


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## MPython (Nov 30, 2018)

Finger joints on a router table is probably the neatest and strongest way to join boards end-to-end. https://www.amazon.com/FINGER-JOINT-BIT/dp/B001DT4S8C

For accurate ripping of long boards on the table saw, use feather boards to keep the work pressed against the fence as it begins the cut. There are many different ways to rig a feather board. My wife gave me a set of these magnetic ones for Christmas last year and I've found them to be the easiest to set than anything I"ve used so far.
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/magswitch-universal-magnetic-featherboard#


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## Nirav (May 2, 2020)

The wall is a little less than 8 ft wide.
The table saw is a Sawstop professional cabinet saw. 
I plan to put up sheets of veneered plywood on the drywall first, then pin the strips to the plywood. 
I don't have helpers unfortunately, at least none that I could ask to help for the duration of this project. I'm just a hobbyist hoping to do this project.
I've thought about movement of the wood after I cut the strips, and haven't come up with a good solution. I figured pinning them to the plywood would stabilize them, but it would be several days before i get them from garage to my office (off-site).


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## tvrgeek (Nov 19, 2013)

Ripping on a PCS should be no problem, but
First, is the wall design such that you can hide the joints? If so, just butt them. Sure router finger cuts are fine, but that ignores a couple thousand years of miters, scarfs, buts, birds beaks, etc. Any of them if cut well and glued ahead of time should remain tight, though will always be visible.


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## Nirav (May 2, 2020)

No way to hide a joint, the whole wall will be exposed. I'm ok with a visible joint if it's the most reliable way to do this project though


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Japanese joinery would be a nice feature in your office. Maybe something like this:










https://duckduckgo.com/?q=Japanese+joinery&t=h_&iax=images&ia=images

Just something to think about.


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## ibewjon (Oct 2, 2010)

If you start with boards longer than you need, cut them in half. Work from the same side of each shorter piece and put match marks on the ends for later grain match. That will help hide the type of joint you choose.


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## Tony_S (Dec 16, 2009)

> The table saw is a Sawstop professional cabinet saw.


No reason at all you shouldn't just build a decent out feed table. It would be FAR quicker than dicking around trying to figure out how to join shorter pieces and then executing.



> I plan to put up sheets of veneered plywood on the drywall first, then pin the strips to the plywood.


Good plan.


> I've thought about movement of the wood after I cut the strips, and haven't come up with a good solution. I figured pinning them to the plywood would stabilize them,
> - Nirav


No question the wood will move as you cut. How much depends on both the grain and quality of the lumber.
Layout the wall correctly and accurately so you don't end up with an uneven space or a half piece at finish.
Take extra care on the first piece and make sure it's attached DEAD PLUMB and STRAIGHT. After that use appropriate sized spacer blocks to space and hold the next piece in place. Keep checking plumb visually and with a level. You may have to make minor corrections every 10-12 pieces depending how accurately you proceed.
As for attachment, a SMALL dab of glue every 14-16" should be plenty to hold the pieces in place permanently. Pins to hold while the glue dries.
Don't over complicate this…it isn't a difficult project if you take your time and think through it.


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## jkm312 (Jan 13, 2020)

If it were me, I would consider using splines as a way to hold the end joints together. Before you rip your white oak down cut the slots in the end with a router and a slot bit. It will most likely tear out a little on the exit, but you can trim that away when you rip them down. This method will require you to figure out your finished lengths in advance. At .75 x .75 I don't think the strips will stay straight for long. They should not be too much of a problem to line up when you put them on the wall. You will need to mill the spline material to fit the slot. Mill them a little loose, because the glue will swell the joint.

Have you considered making your strips wider and using a difference spacing for balance.


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## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

> Sorry, my fault. I have a table saw, band saw, circular saw, jig saw. I just don't have a great outfeed for the table saw. I thought about the track saw, but obviously don't have a 9ft track. How do you control the 9 ft long board on the table saw to get a consistent width? How do you prevent it from wandering away from the fence as you feed such a long board? Is there a particular way to set it up?
> 
> - Nirav


Maybe I'm missing something but for a 9' length of wood I don't see this as an issue.

Build some kind of temporary outfeed supports for the table saw. Maybe even a couple of saw horses with blocks of wood elevating a 2×6 on top of them.

To keep the wood against the fence just clamp a block of wood on the out feed end of the saw table to sandwich the wood you're cutting between it and the fence. Leave a slight, very slight gap so that it moves through easily without friction.

To me this is a fairly simple solution instead of mortised joints and such. Then again, maybe I've missed the point and this isn't a solution.


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## LeeRoyMan (Feb 23, 2019)

> get 2 helpers to help you with the project.
> it can be done safely and efficiently with two extra people.
> 
> - John Smith


John, can you expand on this. 
I've never been comfortable with 3 people cutting strips on the table saw, sounds like an accident.
.
.
I agree with Tony_S, cut full lengths. 9' isn't that long or hard.

Another option that might be easier for you would be to cut your plywood into 2 foot sections and attach your strips to the plywood first, then put them up on the wall. That way your working on a table instead of the wall.
With some planning you should be able to make it so your strips cover the plywood edges.
If you wanted to get crazy, you could dado your plywood for the strips.


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## Nirav (May 2, 2020)

Thanks for all the advice! I think I'll give it a go with full length strips, rather than messing with end joinery. First, build some proper outfeed as suggested. Rip the full 9ft length, with infeed featherboards, and perhaps a loose block at outfeed, as suggested, to minimize lateral movement (should I be worried about kickback??).

Perhaps change the dimensions of the strips as suggested as well. Maybe 1" wide by 3/4" thick, spaced 1/2" apart? Unsure. Any thought on ideal ratios?

Unfortunately, given that the wall is almost 9ft high, a 4×8 sheet still won't cover the full height, so there will have to be a horizontal seam. Any tips for that?


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## LeeRoyMan (Feb 23, 2019)

Either buy 10' plywood, or scab a 2'piece onto the end of your 8' piece. (Biscuits and glue) 
It doesn't have to be structural, seeing that you will be adding all the strips to it. 
The seam shouldn't be very visible, depending on what you are doing in between the strips.
I would go with 10' material and "get er done"

I'm doing a similar wall right now. The strips are 1 1/2" wide, with 1/2" space. 
(ignore the cross brace note)


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## Nirav (May 2, 2020)

Your wall looks great! Thanks, I didn't know plywood came in 10' lengths… I've only ever seen max 4'x8'

Why the cross braces? Is it for aesthetics or other structural purpose? How wide is that wall?


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## LeeRoyMan (Feb 23, 2019)

The picture is just a prototype. 
The slats I'm doing are 1 1/2" x 3". The Wall is 17' across with an 8' window in the center.
Each side of the window will have a black backer sheet to keep all the slats straight, but the center window area will not, so I'm using the cross braces to keep the slats straight.

You might need to visit a lumber company to get 10' ply.


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## John Smith_inFL (Dec 15, 2017)

> get 2 helpers to help you with the project.
> it can be done safely and efficiently with two extra people.
> - John Smith
> 
> ...


I would put two helpers on the outfeed end - one to catch the skinny strip and put it out of the way.
some whacky grain could pull the skinny strip out like a piece of spaghetti. 
the second person to catch the full board and pass it back to the pusher guy.
the pusher guy would be the only one guiding and cutting the board.
the other two would not be near the blade or close to anything that could hurt them. (or you).
(just my way - if I had the people. most of the time, I had at least 3-6 employees).
there's always more than one way to get the skin off that darned cat !!!

.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Half laps, to answer the question, with an 1/8" gap offset strip to strip but I would just rip 9' strips.


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## LeeRoyMan (Feb 23, 2019)

> get 2 helpers to help you with the project.
> it can be done safely and efficiently with two extra people.
> - John Smith
> 
> ...


Fair enough, 
It doesn't work for me though, but I get it, you do what works for you.

I would never recommend having anybody help pull material through the saw, glad you weren't, just wanted to make sure so that nobody else tries that. It's the easiest way for something to go wrong.


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## John Smith_inFL (Dec 15, 2017)

LeeRoy - that's very correct: nobody should ever pull a board through
a cutting saw, no matter what kind it is. I would always instruct my helpers
to "support" the board from underneath with their finger tips only - and never pull it.
cutting 3/4×3/4" strips will surely create some squirrely pieces - just be ready for it.
I guess most of us keep forgetting (me, anyway) that we have decades
around woodworking equipment and take a lot of things for granted.
if not explained thoroughly, novice members could arrive at the wrong conclusion.
good point - thanks for asking.

.


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## rcs47 (Oct 31, 2009)

Set up a roller to catch the board, then you can cut full length pieces.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Worker-Support-Stand-for-27-5-in-to-43-5-in-Rollers-43120/308061611


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## John Smith_inFL (Dec 15, 2017)

*Nirav ~* I was in Lowe's yesterday and while looking at their narrow wood selections: 
most 8 footers were unusable unless they were to be cut into small craft pieces.
so I was thinking, for you to have a somewhat successful project, cut all your
strips as quickly as you can in one day. then strap them tightly to a 2×6 with
whatever you have: duct tape, food wrap, packing tape, etc. to keep them uniform.
then transport the bundle(s) to your office and let it acclimate until you are ready
to build your wall project. without some kind of restraint on the strips, I am afraid
that you could loose quite a few to distortion.
looking forward to following you project - please keep us in the loop.

.


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## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

im not taking sides here just saying i like to do it myself if possible as stated by LeeRoy its like having an unexperienced rider on back of your motorcycle LMAO

Narav = I will do just like TonyS. said just my 1 cent worth :<)))))


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## Nirav (May 2, 2020)

Thanks for all the input! I'll probably start in a couple of weeks. Get all my ducks in a row first


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## Nirav (May 2, 2020)

BTW, here is the wall I will be working on!








!


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## John Smith_inFL (Dec 15, 2017)

you mean this wall ?










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