# Delta Milwaukee 14" bandsaw - I think...



## Newbiewoodworker43 (Sep 18, 2011)

Good afternoon all,
This morning I went to go purchase a 12" tilt head Craftsman bandsaw for $25 from CL. I know it is not the greatest bandsaw but as I am a beginner and I really need a bandsaw and the price was right I figured I would go for it.

When I got there someone else had come earlier and stole it away. I was not happy but then I saw an old Delta Milwaukee band saw on an old wooden table. I checked it out. It ran so I offered $25 and they took it.

Now, I am new at all this and did not have a tape measure with me so I thought it was a 9" or something like that. When I got it home I measured everything and found out that it is a 14" bandsaw! The motor is the original Rockwell 1/3 hp motor.

I went onto the vintage machinery wiki and looked up the serial number - 94 4788 and it turns out that it is a 1951 model. In my haste to get out I left the belt…

I have a couple of questions.
1. Is this going to cost me a fortune to refurbish? 
2. What is the best things I can do to make this saw run awesome?
3. How do I figure out what belt size I need?
4. Where can I get a manual for this saw?
5. How do I figure out how big a blade to put on?

Lastly, I just want to make sure that this was a good deal. I know the saw runs but have never seen what this type of band saw goes for.

Any help will be greatly appreciated


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

I think you should post some pictures to help us out. But, that being said, as long as this thing hasn't been run over by a truck or something, you got a great deal. The 14" deltas from yesterday changed a little bit through the years but not dramatically. I have a 14" Delta from '84. Love it.

It shouldn't cost too much to get cleaned up. Get all surface rust taken care of. I'd check the bearings, it probably could use new tires, a new blade, check the guides and replace/upgrade if necessary. I run a link belt from HF on my Delta and it works great. They're around $25 if I recall correctly. Use the HF coupon. Check the alignment of the table to the blade and make any needed adjustments.

Once you've done all that, I think any remaining problems will either be readily apparent, or you'll have a good starting point to start troubleshooting it.

EDIT : Check out this link.
http://vintagemachinery.org/MfgIndex/detail.aspx?id=1141&tab=3&sort=2&th=false&fl==

The saws didn't change a whole bunch between the years, so you can probably find a manual for a 14" of a different year that will come in handy.

Where are you located? There may be a LJ locally who has an old or spare blade you could test fit. If you were anywhere near me, I'd throw one of my blades on there. I use the Timberwolf blades from Woodcraft and like them very much. I'd recommend not getting your blades at HD or Lowes.


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## SCOTSMAN (Aug 1, 2008)

What have you got against 1951 eh?I was born then and I still work albeit not like I did previously.LOL I would say all joking aside you have stolen a 14 inch bandsaw (for that kind of money, you couldn't buy a used motor for that normally) if it is apart from the belt otherwise complete and working..
If you start off with a really vigorous cleaning campaign followed by lots of oiling and before that of course sanding and painting if required and thought desirable.
You should find it will run fine *although to be honest these things are almost impossible to make more detailed comment upon without a nice collection of photos *otherwise it should be as I have tried to advise you from my experience,it sounds like you did really well old pal.keep buying like that and you'll be fine.So long as it works ok of course.LOL Alistair


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## Sprung (Sep 13, 2013)

Yes, some pictures would help, as already mentioned.

For $25, I'd say that qualifies for a *STEAL*! Last year I purchased my 14" Delta Milwaukee with riser block built in 1946 for $150 and got a really awesome deal at that price, I felt.

Mine was in great, running condition, but I did do some upgrades that really made this saw sing. Your saw, while a handful of years newer, is the same saw.

Here's what I did:
-Cleaned up the little bit of rust that was on it; coated table surface with paste wax
-New tires (I went with Carter Urethane tires)
-Cool Blocks guide blocks
-Link belt from Harbor Freight; this reduced a LOT of vibration it had, especially after making sure the pullies were lined up properly.
-Lengthened the tension adjustment to make it easier to adjust
-New blades
-New wiring and switch, since what was on it was damaged and unsafe
-Purchased some zero-clearance inserts
-Purchased a new table pin, since that was the only part missing when I bought mine

Still on my to do list:
-Replace the thrust bearings
-Build a resaw fence
-Build a new stand (to replace the chunky homebuilt one it came with)

You also might need to replace the bearings for either or both of the wheels. I was thankful that all the wheel bearings are good on mine. However, once you post some pics, we might be able to provide you with some other things for you to check out/work on.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

$25 certainly sounds like a very good deal, pictures will help confirm or deny that. A new belt shouldn't be more than $15 or so for a good one. It might need tires, but given that it's a 14" saw you'll have lots of options. If you go with fancy guides, that can be expensive, but if you're just starting out, probably not needed yet.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Great deal at $25.. I paid almost $100 for my 1950 Delta BS and it didn't even run!

As for your questions:

1) No. I think I sunk about $100 into mine to do a complete restore (saw, motor and stand). That included replacing some missing parts and building a new top for the stand.
See: http://www.owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=108871&p=737287 for the gory details

2) Make sure the bearings and tires are good and get a good blade. Then follow Alex's tune-up:
See: 




3) Measure the size of your pullies and distance apart and go here: http://vintagemachinery.org/math/beltlength.aspx

4) Any Delta BS manual from about 1940 to 1970 will work, such as this one from 1946: http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=2001 (they didn't really change much over the years). You can find a complete list of manuals at the VM site: http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=1141&tab=3&sort=1

5) Check the manua! for specifics. Length can be from 90.5 to 94 inches, so the 93.5 inch blades fit perfect. As for width, use the widest you can for the application.. again, check the manual for recommendations (and there are tons of other online resources to help with blade selection depending on what you will be cutting).

Cheers,
Brad

PS: Here are all the parts of your BS so you can see if you are missing any ;-)










Cheers,
Brad


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## Newbiewoodworker43 (Sep 18, 2011)

Here are the pictures you requested. I hope this gives you more information.

I did remeasure and this is definitely a 14" band saw. With a 1/3 hp motor, will I be able to resaw with this bandsaw once I tune it up and get a good blade?


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

Yeah, it's official. You're a thief.

That saw is in relatively very good condition. The majority of what's needed is more elbow grease than anything else. Once you get it fixed up you'll love it. The motor might be a tad underpowered for resawing, but you could do some. My 14" has a 1/2 hp and with the proper blade i can resaw 5-6" on it without problems.

It looks like the lower door is there in the second to last picture, so I assume you have both the doors.


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## Newbiewoodworker43 (Sep 18, 2011)

Thanks to one and all for all the great advice and information sources. I am located in Amesbury, MA since you asked. There is a very thin blade on the saw at this time which I can measure (now that I think of it) and Brad provided me with a location where I can figure that out.

By the way Brad, I checked out your refurbish job and it was AWESOME. I do not plan on doing what you have done as I neither have the talent or the time.

I do, however, want to make the saw "sing" as Matt put it.

Any further advice now that the pictures are up would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks…


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## Newbiewoodworker43 (Sep 18, 2011)

Hey Ed,
Both doors are there but the lower one seems to be "knocking". I mean that it does not snug down like the upper one does.

Just out of curiosity, what should this band saw (in this condition) have cost me?

I also picked up a Craftsman King/Seely Drill press (model 103.23130) made in 1950 at the same time for $10. It is a bit rusty but is running smoothly. I just need to figure out the right key which I think is a 1/2" key. I believe this drill press has at least 4 speeds. The tough part was carrying it and putting it in place. I weighs about 170 lbs. The bandsaw was light in comparison! I think this was another good purchase as I did not have a drill press before.


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## Newbiewoodworker43 (Sep 18, 2011)

I have been spending time cleaning and fixing up my "new" band saw.

I have gotten most of the rust off the table but have not gotten to the fully "shiny" state yet. I was planning on using a ROS and wet/dry sandpaper iwth wd40.

I have ordered new Ultra Max Urethane tires and have spent a couple of hours getting the old (really old) rubber tires off. After a great deal of effort the pulleys are clean and ready for the new tires when they get in.

I have also done a very thorough cleaning as this band saw was being used to cut plastic tubing so plastic was all over the place. I have also used steel wool to get most of the rust off.

Here is my problem. I see what an awesome job people have done in fully restoring these great old band saws but I do not really have the time or talent to do this. I am hesitating on repainting as it seems that I will have to take everything apart to do this. The band saw is really not in that bad a shape. Is it critical that I fully remove all the rust and repaint or can I do I general cleaning and run the saw?


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## Sprung (Sep 13, 2013)

I just did a general cleaning/rust removal and started using the saw when I got mine. I did coat the two wheel covers also with a coat of paste wax because there are a lot of nicks in the paint that had rusted. I had cleaned the rust from the nicks, but didn't want it to reappear. Tearing it down and repainting was most definitely out of the question for me at the time, and still will be for a while. I would like to repaint mine someday, but that's likely to be at least a couple/few years from now before that would happen.

Even if you're not going to paint it right now, I would remove all the rust you can - really work on that - and then protect any exposed metal surfaces if you're not going to paint. Rust is bad. Remove it and protect the metal.


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

I cut a circle out of a green scotch brite pad, slapped it on my ROS, and it worked great.


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## Boatman53 (May 21, 2012)

I resaw with my 14" but I upgraded the motor to a 3/4 horse when the 1/2 horse died. I do use my saw professionally so often for long periods. You got a great deal. I don't need another bandsaw but I would have bought it.
Jim


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## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

Lets see, how long you been on here? 
888 days?

Oh hell, you should fully understand then when I say

*YOU SUCK! *


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## Newbiewoodworker43 (Sep 18, 2011)

I have gotten the rust off of the table and as a last step I used wd40 and 400 and then 600 wet/dry sandpaper. I got kinda freaked when it got a blackish tinge to it but it is smooth as glass now and pretty shiny. I applied two coats of wax and it looks pretty good.

I still have some rust on the wheel covers. When I started to use steel wool on them you could really see where I was scrubbing so I stopped. I picked up a cheap ROS from HF so I will try the green scotch brite pad trick and see if that works. By the way, how do you get the scotch brite to stick?

I will try and get all the rust off and then put on a couple of coats of wax. to protect it.

I am also going to order some Cool Blocks. I just hope I can figure out how to get them on.! I ordered a Timber Wolf 93.5" 3/8" 6TPI blade. I figured that would be a pretty good blade to start. I am going to hold off on the resawing until I figure out the band saw some more.

Hey Joe, if it makes you feel any better this sort of thing has never happened to me before. I am still in shock that I scored this vintage Delta Milwaukee band saw. I hope I can do it justice!


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

I use the green Scotch-Brite pad on the cast iron surfaces. I'm not sure how it would work on painted parts. I got it to stick because my random orbit sander has the Velcro pad. Just cut a circle and slap it on.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Don't sand/scotch brite the painted bits.. just leave them as is or you will ruin whatever paint you have left. If it really bugs you, then hit it with some diluted phosphoric acid to stop the rust from getting any worse. The rust ain't gonna hurt a thing there.. the table top is really the only thing you need to clean up and you have already done that. Also, if your current metal guide blocks are in usable shape, cool blocks will just be a waste of money. If needed, take them to a grinder and resurface them flat.

Cheers,
Brad


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## Newbiewoodworker43 (Sep 18, 2011)

Thanks Ed and Brad. I will leave the painted parts alone for now. Maybe one day I will have gained the skill and have the time to do a complete restoration. I am going to try the Scotch-Brite suggestion on the Drill press. It is a real mess!


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

You got a classic and you stole it. Rustoleum Dark Machinery Grey at Home Depot is an okay match if you want to repaint your wheel covers . One spray can is plenty. Anything you do can be reversed or done better in the future, so don't worry about anything. Some people like original patina, some people want things with paint finishes that belong on high end cars. Just use the saw and enjoy it. If your motor can be rewired for 220 it might make for smoother resawing but I don't know for certain.


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## Newbiewoodworker43 (Sep 18, 2011)

I may just do that dhazelton. The wheel covers can be easily done. It was the rest of the band saw body and all the parts that was freaking me out. The lower wheel cover has some bad rust and I would like to fix that.


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

You can clean the top easily with some Scotchbrite pads. Instead of a ROS you could pick up a small quarter sheet sander with the clamps that hold sandpaper and put the pads on that. The rest of the bright work you can polish in place with four aught steel wool. Did someone answer your belt question? You can just wind string around the two pulleys to get a length, or you can buy the segmented belt and make it whatever length you need. You can reposition the motor up or down or side to side for fine tuning the belt tension, or put the motor on a hinged platform and the weight of the motor makes the tension. Look over at the vintage machinery site for tons of stand and mount ideas. Again, $25 - you stole it.


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## Newbiewoodworker43 (Sep 18, 2011)

Picked up a link belt at HF over the weekend. Just got my Ultra Max urethane tires and 3/8" Timber Wolf blade in the mail.

I'll be cutting wood soon!!!


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

When you put tires on - wrap the tire around part of the wheel and put that part of the wheel down on the ground (standing up) with your foot in it to hold it down. Then take a screw driver in each hand and insert the tips between the tire and and bottom of the wheel, on on each side, right up to the handle. Now run the screwdrivers up the sides of the wheel to leverage the tire on all the way to the top. It may sound confusing but when you start you'll get what I'm talking about.


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## Newbiewoodworker43 (Sep 18, 2011)

dhazelton - you are a GOD! I had watched some you tube videos and saw how guys were able to get their tires on while the wheel was still in place. I tried that at first since I was hesitant to take off the wheels. Well after a lot of sweating, cursing and frustration I did what you suggested.

Bam! I had them on in no time flat!

Was I supposed to lubricate where I put the wheels back on? The top one was bone dry and I had a hard time getting it off. The lower one came off easier and it seemed to have some sort of lubricant. If I should have then what do you use?

They seem to be significantly thicker than the tires that were on there before. They are the Ultra Max Urethane tires. I think they are .125 thick. They fit well in the groove but they are pretty much right up to the lip. Is that right?

I'll take some pics tomorrow and post them.

I also got the link belt on.

I need to watch the videos on how to make sure that everything is coplanar

Then all I have to do is get the new blade on and I will be cutting wood!


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## CJIII (Jan 3, 2014)

Nice find for $25.


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

No lubricant necessary. Tire should fit right up to the lip of the wheel and as the blade is supposed to ride on the crown it wouldn't matter much where the tire ends anyway. I tried putting on tires flat on a bench and it just was NOT happening. Saw that method in youtube and it just works. Looking forward to pics.


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

This qualifies as a gloat post. I hate you. They don't make 'em like that anymore.


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## woodchuckerNJ (Dec 4, 2013)

One more thing, get some plastic zero clearance inserts.. usually HMWH, it will save your blades, and is an excellent addition.

BTW you suck!!


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## Newbiewoodworker43 (Sep 18, 2011)

It OK MrRon. I understand. I am going to try and put the new blade on tonight, make sure it tracks correctly, make sure the wheels are coplanar, adjust the guides and if all goes well CUT SOME WOOD!!!


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## Newbiewoodworker43 (Sep 18, 2011)

IT LIVES!!! I just got the wheels coplanar, put on the blade, made sure it tracked correctly, adjusted the upper and lower guides and Tah Dah, the band saw is cutting like a champ.

I will take some pictures and post them.

Thanks to one and all for all the advice, encouragement and help. I still may go for paint and I definitely am going to build a new base but the key thing is that I now have an operational band saw!


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## Newbiewoodworker43 (Sep 18, 2011)

Still rusty but better than it was. I may paint it eventually.








Table cleaned up nicely. Put a couple coats of wax on. Need some zero clearance inserts and the set bolt.








New Timber Wolf 3/8" 6TPI blade. Cut through 1" Red Oak like a hot knife thru butter!








Link belt from HF.








Ultra Max Urethane Tire on the upper wheel. Thanks dhazelton for the technique to get these on!








Ultra Max Urethane Tire on the lower wheel.








Tension wheel - a little cleaner


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## Charlie75 (Mar 14, 2012)

I'm chasing one similar to this myself. Only difference the seller thinks it worth $250. I am at much less then that so I'm not optimistic I will be it.

You got one sweet deal. Congratulations.

Charlie


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## Newbiewoodworker43 (Sep 18, 2011)

Hey Charlie,
I have been monitoring your post/replies. That guy wanting $250 is nuts! The $75 you were planning on offering is about as high as I would go. I did get a sweet deal but it was an accident and the person selling it had no idea what is was or what it was worth.

I gotta say that this band saw does really cut awesome but I have never had a band saw before so I have nothing to compare to. I have noted that the lack of dust collection is going to be something that I may need to address. But I clean up after my 70's Craftsman table saw so why not this too!

Good hunting


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## Sprung (Sep 13, 2013)

If you haven't sourced a table pin yet, here's where I got mine. Couldn't beat $7 shipped and it arrived quickly and fits like it should.


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

Congrats! That looks great! Try some cream polishing compound on a cloth on the painted areas and they will brighten and shine up a lot (might even get rid of the scratches on the upper cover). You may decide it's not worth the repaint. It looks nice enough as is. I did that with a Delta floor drill press that looked brown from oil and dirt and it came out fine.


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## jstegall (Oct 9, 2008)

I have the same BS. Even a cheap copy from the SE part of the world would run ~ 300$. I sold a second one for $275. Motor: a quality 1.5 hp is great for resawing. 1/3 is pretty low on the scale, but that is just my opinion. If you take it slow and easy you can do it but be on the look out for a bigger motor. They can be cheap (my 1.5 hp Baldor was free) and can be rebuilt. I swapped a table for children for having mine rebuilt.

The bearings can be picked up at a local auto supply and are much cheaper than most manufacturers.

*Edit: *I also have almost the same drill press, a little older and they are HEAVY!


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## woodchuckerNJ (Dec 4, 2013)

As far as the table pin goes, when you get it, try this.
Epoxy a wrench on the end, it makes it easy to put on and take off.
I heated an old crappy wrench, straightened it out, glued it on.
If you get the one from above, it doesn't have hex , just use a smaller wrench.


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

Hm, I just use a pair of channel lock pliers and twist as a pull, comes out easy peasy.


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## Charlie75 (Mar 14, 2012)

Hey Newbie. I think my "sweet deal" has disolved. I have called the guy three times and have not gotten an answer or reply to the message I left. So I keep looking.
Actually I have a band saw. A 14" Chraftsman that is about 2 years old. I got it before being involved in forums where I can learn. Chraftsman is not the greates tool on planet earth. It does work fairly well but it's not a Delta.
If you were closer I would offer to trade you. lol
Charlie


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## Newbiewoodworker43 (Sep 18, 2011)

Funny thing Charlie - when I went to the place for the band saw I was going for a tilt head 12" craftsman POS. I got beat out by some other guy who got there first but then I saw the "Holy Grail" of band saws just sitting there. I tried it and it ran so I offered $25 (like the CMan was listed for) and she took it!

Sorry, no trade!!!


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## Newbiewoodworker43 (Sep 18, 2011)

Hey Ed,
I'm thinking that the wheel had not been removed for many, many years. When I removed the tire on that wheel it was so dried on that I had to scrape it off with a chisel and then use steel wool to get it all off.

I put a little bit of oil on it and then wiped off any excess and not it goes on/off fairly easily.


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## Newbiewoodworker43 (Sep 18, 2011)

Thanks for the advice John. I have started looking on CL for a new motor. The one I have seems ok for now but I do want to do some resawing in the future and I know it is best to be patient when looking for a good deal on CL.


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

Howard, my response was in regards to the table pin.


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## Charlie75 (Mar 14, 2012)

(Quote) "Funny thing Charlie - when I went to the place for the band saw I was going for a tilt head 12" craftsman POS. I got beat out by some other guy who got there first but then I saw the "Holy Grail" of band saws just sitting there. I tried it and it ran so I offered $25 (like the CMan was listed for) and she took it!"

I think she just felt sorry for you because the other one escaped. LOL
No one ever takes pity on my. :-(


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## jstegall (Oct 9, 2008)

Howard, check garage sales also for used motors also, I got the baldor for free because the guy had been using one of those small 6' extension cords. It was "burned" up. In reality it just needed new bearings. I also got a 2 hp Delta and a 2 hp Dewalt (for a Dewalt sander). This guy earned his living making mesquite kitchen products and used a tin roofed and sided shop beside his house. When I mentioned that I thought the real problem was those cords, he got very angry. I loaded up the stuff and left. I mentioned before about the rebuild and the swap but it is really pretty easy to replace those bearings.


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