# Alternative to PARF system for making MFT table top.



## rwe2156

My DNA rebels against a one use $200 jig that will sit on the shelf 99% of its life.

Has anyone made a jig for this?

I've often thought a local Woodcraft store could rent things like this.


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## Sigung

Okay, I looked up the parf system, that's a whole bunch of expensive hooey for what you could do with a good T square. My recommendation, square up your stock perfectly, get a good T-square, lay out a grid with a fine pencil or marking knife, and drill.


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## pottz

just looked at myself and im with jerry over 200 bucks for something you'll use once,save some money and do what jerry said.


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## KettleWorkshop

I get the concept of the system but the price just makes me go "that's interesting".

Will be putting in 3/4" Dog Holes in my bench and I plan to do so with just accurate measuring and a good drill guide to ensure 90 degree holes.

I do like Robert's idea of Woodcraft renting something like that out. Even $30-50 for the day would be worth it cause that system is nice but just not worth the $200 for one time use and then sit on a shelf.


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## pottz

i agree about the rental idea id bet they would make a lot more money renting than the very few who would want to buy it.


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## John_

The best way I have found to make a MFT type top is to….start with a MFT Top

You can buy the *replacement top* currently for $123 on Amazon.
https://smile.amazon.com/Festool-489396-Perforated-Replacement-MFT-LP1080/dp/B003KN3VU0/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=mft+replacement&qid=1560449380&s=gateway&sr=8-2

Sure, you can lay out a grid, but it is not going to be as accurate as a true MFT top… It just depends on what meets your standards

Using the replacement top as a 'template', clamp it to your workpiece and the drill out the bulk of the holes with a drill bit. I use a drill bushing to prevent from damaging the top. Then with a router and a flush trim bit, I enlarge the hole to match the template. I can then extend the template to a new area by using longer dogs to pin it to the wholes I already made in the workpiece. Using this method I have made 4' x 8' MRT style tops


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## therealSteveN

Wow, who knew that I made a Parf ette.

I thought of it as low brow Kentucky engineered hole whopper (the swiss cheeser). It is made with 2×12 material, and setting one row, you can move it over after you pin your first row with dogs, and keep moving it exactly 4" over so your rows come out 4" between, and 4' up or down. IOW makes a nice field ala~MFT design. The 1 1 /2" depth is plenty to get your drill oriented 90* to the tables surface, without being too stuffy. A person with really poor drilling skills could likely made do, but you could also make it 2 boards thick, and have a 3" start.

Top, note the board keeping it fronted to the top. AKA Bench Hook. Top is pretty dirty, it's drilled out a bunch of MFT's at the time someone asked me to shoot a pic for them.










Bottom, doesn't get touched much, looks brand new.










I laid it out pretty carefully, and drilled it on a drill press. It extends 24". After using it a few times I pretty much ignore the first row of holes now, That puts the first line into a nice spot, but if you play around with a paper template on layout you'll find what feels right for you.

Yes it doesn't look like much, but using it, a person with no use of it beforehand can make a really nice MFT. I've used stock from 8020 Garage Sale on the edges. They have some that is exactly 1 1/2" tall, and it works perfectly for a heavyweight with 2 layers of MDF. This also is a nice depth where so many of the 3/4" diameter leg dogs, and clamps with 3/4" stock legs work.

Alternatively you can go with a lot of the T Track, or especially the heavier Kreg track and use 1/4-20 held clamps and such. That stuff I usually do a double thick, and just put it on the edge, inset into the top. You can go really heavy weight and make your top 3 sheets thick, and use the bottom 2 to screw into, and the top just surrounds the track making it flush. Or I suppose you could route, or dado it out. Whatever works easiest for you.


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## SMP

200? Psshh, thats nothing, i'll wait til woodpeckers makes a "one time" $500 version.


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## pottz

> 200? Psshh, thats nothing, i'll wait til woodpeckers makes a "one time" $500 version.
> 
> - SMP


yeah keep me posted ill jump on that-lol.


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## MrRon

It is very difficult to center a hole to be drilled, especially in soft or grainy wood. The drill wants to follow the fiber, pulling the drill bit off the layout lines. Clamping the wood to the DP table and using a forstener bit can keep you centered.


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## MrRon

I looked at the PARF system. It is a simple system based on basic trigonometry. The components have to be very precise to do what it does. Such precision costs money, so $200+ allows the product to be made, but is it worth the money? I have a machine shop in my wood shop, so I could duplicate the PARF system with the required precision. I couldn't personally justify buying one, but with my machine shop facility, I would have no problem doing a hole layout. Not everyone has the machines available. In fact, I use machine shop precision to layout my wood projects. I just treat wood as if it were metal. I routinely work to thousands, not fractions.


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## therealSteveN

Doing the hole layout on my little hole punch guide took me a few minutes to think about it. Once on the drill press I was done in less that 15 minutes, but I have a very good fence. I would guess total time is less than an hour. Kiss method rocks. This need not be complicated, it's just holes. I have way more in the Bosch Daredevil spade bit, than the jig.


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## kroginold

Woodpeckers already made a one time tool version. Makes 3/4 inch holes or 20 mm using router. Came with everything needed but the router. As I recall I paid 170$


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## waho6o9

"Has anyone made a jig for this?"

Actually there's quite a few now a days.

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=mft+jigs+for+sale&t=h_&iax=images&ia=images

https://woodrave.com/shop?olsPage=products%2Fwoodrave-mft-boring-template


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## rwe2156

@John -

Thanks very much I think this is the way I will go!!

May I ask what bushing guide and where do you get one?


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## rwe2156

Are there any 1/2" shank 20mm bits out there?

Or, what bit did you use?


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## kaerlighedsbamsen

This guy has a great solution for making the holes accurately without a jig, worth a try:


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## LittleBlackDuck

*Boys* and *Girls*, I was making some of my oddball comments to a blog and the subject of Parf arose.

I was considering a review and decided to do a search first and made a few hits… not being an avid reader and wade through all the responses, I hope that this response covers the subject matter with stuff that may not have been covered.

I have one (don't call me Shirley, have 2… Mk.I and Mk.II). Cutting a long story longer, a friend belongs to a mans shed and with interest from members (for their private use) I have made enought tabletops that from all the nominal donations I have recovered the purchase cost and any new "orders" get a freebie (they have to supply the timber).
So this "single use" jig has churned out over 1 doz. tabletops… who says a duck doesn't have a webbed foot.

To save typing here is a reply I made to a similar blog... zip down to the bottom.

I may need to buy a new 20mm TCT bit as they should not be (if you can) sharpened to maintain tolerances… I'm sure a few shekel donation per user would recover my vino costs.


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## gtrgeo

After I bought my Makita track saw I went through the same thing. I felt I needed an MFT style table to be getting the most use out of the saw. I too am too frugal to spend what they are asking for an MFT or the Parf guide. Having a top CNC cut for me was more costly than just buying a replacement MFT top. The Woodrave system looks like it has promise but I figured I could make one easy enough.

I made a base out of some scrap plywood figuring the bit location did not have to be precise as long as the same orientation is maintained during cutting of the holes. The pins are just cut to length clevis pins from the hardware bins at the local Borg. I have been sidetracked with other things and have yet to try it.

Still need to order the bit. People say the Festool bit is the most accurate and I believe Bosch makes one that is also reported to be good at less cost. When it comes down to it, for ensured accuracy and the cost, the replacement MFT top may be the best value.


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## John_

Robert - my apologies, I just saw your message about the drill bushing

Basically, a MFT top uses 20mm holes which is .787", so a 3/4" OD drill bushing will fit the holes with a little play. For the Inside Diameter, I went with 5/8" to hog out the most amount of material as possible. Then it is just a simple matter of cleaning up the holes with the router. I don't even use a plunge base. I use a fixed base with a foot pedal switch. I wait for the bit to stop, place it a new hole, power the router up and make a revolution or two and then let it come to a stop again. Rinse and repeat

McMaster Carr sells just about anything and that I where I bought my drill bushing

https://www.mcmaster.com/8492a327


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## rwe2156

Thank you a I'm not sure I following what you're doing, but regardless a 1/2×10mm adapter collet is available for the router. Along sight the Woodrave jig mentioned above I believe it will work well.

Just need to find the time to do it!! Cheers.


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## RobS888

> Thank you a I'm not sure I following what you're doing, but regardless a 1/2×10mm adapter collet is available for the router. Along sight the Woodrave jig mentioned above I believe it will work well.
> 
> Just need to find the time to do it!! Cheers.
> 
> - Robert


I have the woodrave jig and it took a while to route out all the holes, but rather easy. I made registration lines on the jig and pegboard to keep it lined up.


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## therealSteveN

> This guy has a great solution for making the holes accurately without a jig, worth a try:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - kaerlighedsbamsen


On BB ply those score lines he made to use for alignment would work ok. On MDF that is showing it where to snap if even light weight is placed over unsupported spans. I always thought these tables didn't need much structure under them. I would think a 4×4' area would be easily large enough to see the breakage I talk about.


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## roofner

Here is an idea.


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## Baumy

@John_

That looks like the way to go. Where did you find that perfect fitting drill bushing?


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## LittleBlackDuck

> Here is an idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - roofner


Great idea about *No CNC, No Guide Jigs*... unfortunately he forgot to mention one simple thing… *"LIMITED or QESTIONABLE ACCURACY*.

I love the way people knock things they haven't tried and rig up makeshifts that they claim to be a perfect substitute…

I speak from experience as I have done both… made an MFT style without and with the *Parf system*... initially, I took care and took my time to ensure absolute accuracy with my *without* build… the fact that afterwards I even considered the *Parf* system, speaks for itself.

I won't begrudge saving money but I do begrudge people claiming similar accuracy… If you have actually achieved similar accuracy, I could just about guarantee that if you costed time, it would have cost twice the price of the *Parf*...

Furthermore the OP's comment of *" that will sit on the shelf 99% of its life"*, no malice intended, however, shows little foresight. 
As mentioned, I have the *Parf* and have made/assisted in about a dozen "table tops"... at $200 that makes it about a tad over 16 shekels per tabletop (+ time) for 99.999999999999999% accuracy.
OK… It sat idle for maybe 95%...

FAIW… I read rumblings about a one time *'pecker"* version above… they did release one and this fool purchased it (before the *Parf*)... again, the fact that I opted to try the *Parf* proves both my insanity and dissatisfaction. 
Much as I like *'peckers* (other than their price) products, it is the tortoise in that race, where the hare wins by a big *Aussie* kilometer.


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## mattikins

If you could get 5 guys/gals to buy it together, rotate it between the team and the last person sells is or one of the team buys everyone else out and proceeds divided equally.


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## Tony1212

Just saw this on Stumpy Nubs' latest Cool Tools video.

It's a 2' x 4' x 0.7" MFT top for the BORA centipede system for $55 (as of this comment). You could use this either as your top, or as a template to get all of your holes perfectly square to each other.

Some of the reviews say the holes are around 19.8 mm rather than a true 20mm, but if you're using it as a template, that may not matter. You just wrap some masking tape around a 19mm brad point bit and mark the centers, then drill with a 20mm bit.

It's made of HDF. My local Menards sells 2' x 4' x 3/4" MDF "Handi Panels" for $15. I can't find a source for 3/4" HDF that lists the prices on their website.


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