# Other than epoxy for bartops/counter tops



## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

I have used a lot of 2 part epoxy for these. While I like the product very much for some applications, the high-gloss and hassles are not good for many applications. So when used properly, what is a good water-resistant finish?


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## devann (Jan 11, 2011)

Oil and water don't mix very well. Would BLO be acceptable?


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## johnstoneb (Jun 14, 2012)

What about lacquer?


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## Bobsboxes (Feb 8, 2011)

Monte, I have used oil based poly on many tables, wood tops, ect. All look as good as the day I finished them. I tried lacquer a couple of times, but it didn't hold up for me.


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

Ive not used the epoxy. Best thing ive used is just plain oil based poly. My dining table has about 8 coats brushed on. Its been impervious to water. I think it might be better if it was sprayed. Also you could call target coatings and see if they have something. Maybe their high build finish.


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## hoss12992 (Mar 20, 2013)

I'm a huge fan of tung oil to make the wood pop and then I put oil Polly on top. Looks great and holds up perfectly. This has stood the test of time for me. Hope this helps buddy


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## TexPenn (Apr 21, 2008)

I use famo wood sometimes. or you can make your own "tung oil" with spar urethane, boiled linseed oil & mineral spirits. equal parts.


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## Snipes (Apr 3, 2012)

I think if your looking to spray the 2k poly is the answer. I don't like the look of pour on epoxy and lacquer generally doesn't hold up on well used tables or bars. Like others have mentioned brush on poly is probably your best bet, I prefer old masters, water or oil both level out real nice.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

Monte,

You have mastered epoxy finishes. Some pines are as hard as some hardwoods. I'm guessing the application would be with Beetle Kill Pine?

I have built a few houses from ground up with current construction materials. Finishing floors use to be with oil based Poly. It truely stands up as it is a plastic finish and almost as hard as epoxy but easier to work with? At least given what I've seen in finishing with epoxy, especially if there are bubbles in the finish?

I'm impatient…really. LOL and I'm working without fresh air flow as you might in winter. If I'm not messing with the color of the wood I use Seal Coat with light sanding and a waterborne Poly.

The butt bench step stool was of concern as I use it in and out of my shop. I asked my mentor Charles Neil if I should go with waterborne or oil based. He said I could continue with waterborne. It's been working well. I use satin finish as it's similar to danish or tung oil.

A caveat: I have refinished a stool seat (toilet) with the waterborne finish and the underside seems to have moisture broken through near the bumpers.

I have also used it on my chainsaw bench ( not yet posted) which is sitting outside in the MN winter.

It seems you are selling a lot of your style furniture. I'm guessing the epoxy is time consuming. You might check out an Erlex hvlp self contained sprayer? Charles Neil and Marc "The Wood Whisperer," have video on this tool.

I'm trying to figure out where I can have a spray booth, but it's not high on priority list.

Hope this gives you some options to consider.


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## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

Arm r seal or waterlox original are good choices on my opinion. Both oil based.


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## 7Footer (Jan 24, 2013)

Interesting thread, you guys should be add some of your tricks to Dave's What are your shop recipe's thread ... Half the mixes in my cabinet I use I got from there…

Every time I use Arm-r-seal I like it even more, I tried it per Stef's recommendation, stuff seems pretty minimal as far as building up a finish, but is also surprisingly durable. Imo it even better if used with seal-a-cell first.


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## JackDuren (Oct 10, 2015)

We use a epoxy then I believe a urethane is used on top to cut the gloss. If interested I'll double check this on Monday…


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## Tooch (Apr 6, 2013)

Monte I've used mainly Minwax oil based poly for most of the tables that I've done. It takes a few more coats (normally at least 5 w/light sanding in between) to build up a good finish, but it has held up the test of my 2 young daughters doing everything from eating lunch on them to painting pictures and still looks great.

A while back I read a brief article on different types of minwax poly. It suggested a 3-step process, starting with wipe-on poly for the first coat, allowing you to really rub into the grain. Next, follow that up with 2-3 coats of brush-on poly to build up a finish. Finally, use the shaker can poly on the last coat to get a real even finish.

as a side note- I just picked up a HVLP sprayer at Rockler for a hundred bucks. I'm not sure if i'll like it, but figured the upside would far out-weigh the investment if it works out.

good luck!


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## Tooch (Apr 6, 2013)

> We use a epoxy then I believe a urethane is used on top to cut the gloss. If interested I ll double check this on Monday…
> - JackDuren


Jack those things are beautiful- what are they for?


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## JackDuren (Oct 10, 2015)

I'm not in the finishing department. I just build them from Parallam beams. But there Restaurant tables.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Jack, That wood is amazing. (but I can't figure out what it is?) That finish is flawless!


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

That looks like it might be lam beams. The idea of satin poly over epoxy is intriguing if it works.


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

Jack, very interested. Those are beautiful.


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## JackDuren (Oct 10, 2015)

I got an order for several more I will start this week. I will try and start a topic of Parallam tops and the process and the finishing. Some will be 3.4 thick and some 5.25. Will range in 14" to 36" in width.


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## Snipes (Apr 3, 2012)

@ Jack I like those! I'd like to hear the finish schedule. I've used satin poly (water base) over epoxy for bar and tables, works good.


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## AudreyD (Oct 14, 2018)

Hey there,
We are looking for a parallam coffee table and love the low gloss finish of these. Does anyone know someone who creates these?

Thank you!
Audrey


> We use a epoxy then I believe a urethane is used on top to cut the gloss. If interested I ll double check this on Monday…
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## John Smith_inFL (Dec 15, 2017)

> *the first key to getting a good finish is do not be an idiot.
> You would think that would be obvious, but…*
> - Holt


what kind of response is that


> ?


?


> ?


??

.

Audrey - if you are for real, it would help if you noted what part of the world you live in.
I doubt very seriously if anyone actually makes Parallam Beam tables for resale.
if you want to make your own, check with your local construction companies that build homes.
they may have cut-offs for cheap or even free.
to find one that is 18-24" wide would be extremely rare as they are ordered from the
distributor in exact lengths. and there are no "cut-offs" due to the high cost of a beam. (no waste).
you could laminate a few narrow pieces together to get your required width - but - you would
have to have some pretty hefty tools to get that done.


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## AudreyD (Oct 14, 2018)

Thanks for the tips, John!


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## AudreyD (Oct 14, 2018)

I am for real in my search for a parallam coffee table! I have seen some online but cannot locate any builders. I live in central Oregon. If anyone knows any furniture builders that create tables like this, I would love to know. Thanks!


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