# Building a cheapo workbench and need advice



## SSMDad (Apr 17, 2011)

First let me say that since I have very little space in my shed (err shop) I need to make this about 2' x 4' so I was thinking of using MDF for the top. I've already built the legs (saw the plan I'm using on some website, FWW or something maybe). The legs were supposed to be 4×4 but I couldn't find any here that wasn't treated or cost a fortune like the Ipe ones so I just joined 2 2×4's.

Do you think a sheet of 3/4' and a sheet of 1/4" MDF would work for the top or should I perhaps combine MDF and Plywood? Maybe 2 3/4" sheets of MDF? Should I just use plywood?

At some point in time I'm going to build a "real" bench but this will save my back from working on the floor for now at least. Suggestions appreciated.

Thanks.


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## mrg (Mar 10, 2010)

I used plywood 2 3/4" pieces sandwiched. It is dead flat and won't swell if it gets wet. I used some spray poly-acrylic on it and it cleans up easy and will take things being dropped on it better than mdf.


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## SSMDad (Apr 17, 2011)

Great! Thanks MRG! I forgot that MDF tends to swell. doh!


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

I agree with mrg. I worked on 4 - 4×8 benches in my shop for over 10 years that were just a single sheet of 3/4. The only thing they are not good for is bench dogs. Doubled it should be fine. If you want it to look pretty, use a veneered plywood, but if you sort through the plie of regular 3/4, you'll fine plenty that will suit your needs just fine.


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## SSMDad (Apr 17, 2011)

Thanks Don. I'm not hung up on how well it looks since I plan to use it quite a bit. Inevitably something will happen and I'd rather not have to fret too much about it. haha I'm definitely going with the plywood.

Thanks guys.


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## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

I built two work tables for the shop a while back. For the tops I laminated two pieces of 3/4 birch plywood together. The plywood was slightly warped but I laminated it in a way that the slightly warped pieces opposed each other. It worked and the tops are dead flat. I then used a good router bit to make sure the edges were trimmed true to each other and then laminated 3/4 inch solid maple edging around the tops. I am satified with the way that they turned out. The pedestal bases are a matching pair of plywood cabinets with a combination of drawers and doors for storage. I'm very happy with the whole thing and they serve me well.

You can see a good picture of one of the benches in the 4th picture in my shop pics if you are interested.


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## SSMDad (Apr 17, 2011)

Another vote for plywood! Thanks for the post and what you did. All great ideas.


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## crank49 (Apr 7, 2010)

My bench is all laminated plywood; even the legs and stretchers. Top is 4 layers of 3/4", plus hardboard wear surface that's replaceable. Whole thing is banded with maple. I used 3/4" A-C sandply. It's a plywood from South America, Brazil I think, has 7 layers and one side sanded smooth. It has exterior grade glue, almost no voids, and it is usually around $22 to $25 at HD; better deal than birch or oak veneer IMHO.


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## Eric_S (Aug 26, 2009)

SSMad, take a loot at my workshop photos. Those legs are 2×4's glued like yours, and the top is two layers of 3/4 plywood glued with a hardboard top for extra protecetion. I trimmed the edges in pine. Its not the prettiest thing but its very stable and cheap


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## SSMDad (Apr 17, 2011)

Thanks Crank and Eric.

Eric, what kind of hardwood top did you put on it? Just a hardwood plywood or something else? Also, did you have any issues installing the vice (and if I may ask) what kind of vice is it?


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## dkirtley (Mar 11, 2010)

I went with three layers of 3/4 hardwood ply + 1/4 masonite.

I have pics on the project page showing the vise on mine. It is an odd type vise but you can get the idea.


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## TimK43 (May 29, 2011)

Maybe it's just my preference, BUT I would use 2- 3/4" MDF because of the weight, cost and the smoothness. The swelling shouldn't be an issue if you finish it properly. I have a similar (second) bench with only 1 sheet of MDF. I used several (3) coats of BLO followed by about 2-5 coats of poly….. I have a habit of using any left over poly on this work bench or some other shop table….. Good Luck!!!


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## Eric_S (Aug 26, 2009)

Chris, its Hardboard, not hardwood. Its like pegboard but not painted and without holes. Very hard 1/8" surface you can get from the box stores(or 1/4"), doesn't damage easily, very cheap. Its also whats on the walls in the garage, except thats painted. For walls though its not the best, it seems to make all noises in their much louder.

The vice install was easy, no issues, the bolts were short enough that they didn't go through the top. My legs pivot so they had to pivot slightly inward due to the vice. The only issue is I used pine instead of a hardwood for the vice faces, I will probably replace that with a hardwood in the future. Its a Rockler quick release vice, http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21523&rrt=1


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## iowawoodworker (Mar 30, 2010)

My benchtop is actually a solid-core oak veneer door… I went down to a local millwork company and asked if they had any miscut or slightly damaged doors they'd sell me. The one I got had a small bit of damage on one side and I paid $15. I built my base to fit the door and put a piece of hardboard on the undamaged surface with carpet tape.

The table is heavy, stable, and I can replace the hardboard whenever it gets too stained or damaged.

Mark


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## SSMDad (Apr 17, 2011)

Lot of great suggestions everyone. I really appreciate it. Just a thought but would there be any advantage to using a mixture of MDF and Hardboard or Hardwood, says 3/4" each?

Just curious as I don't have that much knowledge in how each handles and their densities, etc.?


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

I think plywood would work just find for a benchtop.


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## TimK43 (May 29, 2011)

Chris, First, Hardboard doesn't come thicker than 3/8". So one good trick is to glue 2-3/4" pieces of MDF together, then trim the edges with some Hardwood strips cutting these strips wide enough to leave room on top to insert a piece of 1/8"-3/8" Hardboard. Don't glue the Hardboard in place, that way you can replace it, if and when it gets damaged.

Not to complicate this further but: Make sure the Hardboard is "Tempered". Tempered Hardboard is shiny, dark, smooth and hard while non-tempered is more like cheap MDF: light, dull & kinda soft…. Good Luck!!!


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## SSMDad (Apr 17, 2011)

Thanks Tim!


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## SSMDad (Apr 17, 2011)

Thanks for the tip cr1. Already planning for storage/use space underneath.


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