# How to close this corner? need ideas.



## Loren (May 30, 2008)

This is a large "day bed" piece, almost done. It is
put together with mechanical fasteners and must
be disassembled and re-assembled on site.

The corner needs to be attached with mechanical
fasteners and you can see there are some gaps due
to twisting and/or imperfections in my assembly stage.
The piece is 90" x 100" so I hope you can grasp the
awkwardness of putting it together.

I can attach some sort of backing blocks to the corner
panel. Assuming I can just drive screws in there 
is not an assumption I am willing to make since this
is solid wood and we are very close to the ends
and it has to hold up for a long time.

Bolt heads on the outside are acceptable.

I only really have one shot at choosing how to close
this joint.

I am going out for a run and maybe the brains here
can produce some ideas on how to close this joint
well with metal fasteners and blocks inside.

Any good ideas?


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

I think if you pre drill and countersink from the long board side at the angle to match the short board you will be able to get enough meat and havE it last. Use fairly long screws to get a lot of grip since its end grain. Assuming that's a 12" board use about 5 screws to have them about 2 1/2" apart. That's my thought anyway.


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## S4S (Jan 22, 2011)

Have you considered using hanger bolts with the blocks ? Maybe plugs to cover the nuts on the facing board , if they are less acceptable to the client than bolt heads ? Depending on how much counter bore depth you have to work with .
. Just a thought ..


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

I would use short screws from the inside just to visually pull the joint closed, then reinforce the joint with some hefty glue blocks.

And if you really don't mind exposed fastener heads on the outside, you could use a couple of 2×4 braces (top and bottom). Turn them with the 4" side horizontal and the ends cut to the same angle as the joint, but cut the whole brace about 1/2" short of a perfect fit. Fasten the braces from the outside with whatever type of screw you want, and tightening will draw the two sides tight to the corner piece.


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## Buckethead (Apr 14, 2013)

Clamp it tight using framing members… If framing members run perpendicular then add a block. Screw (carefully, using appropriate size screws) from behind/inside.


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

Why not just "trim" out over the joint with a couple of gapless strips then you can cover any method used to pull the joint together?


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

Running, I came up with the idea of a pair of turnbuckles
with threaded rods pulling the sides in… I'm considering 
all your suggestions too.

I may go buy a bunch of hardware for a few different
approaches and return what I don't use.

Thanks everyone.


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## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

Small angle irons with small screws, maybe even a piano hinge. You'll have to define the angle, but 4-6 of them total should do it fine.


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## joeyinsouthaustin (Sep 22, 2012)

Like *russllap's* idea, but a hinge, you can pull the pin from top or bottom, and install the pin to "Join" the peices.


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## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

If you go with the angle iron idea, be sure to try and find 2" angle iron that has the bevel on the inside if they make them, else you'll have to bend the iron a lot. Most metal won't take bending 90 degree these days without breaking or losing all strength. A torch would come in handy for this.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Magnets.


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## GrandpaLen (Mar 6, 2012)

Loren,

Have you considered Kreg 'Pocket Hole Screws'?

With the right length screws this should draw up tight and then after final assembly insert the plugs to finish off the face.

...just a thought.

Best Regards. - Grandpa Len.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

I think you may have better luck "capping it" from the outside, with a backer block for fasteners….

option one









if the joints or fasteners are unsightly, cover them with vertical trim pieces….


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

If it isn't too late, I think it would look better with the corners mitered. This way there would be no end grain showing. Pocket hole screws should hold this fine like mentioned above. I have seen this done many time by cabinet makers. They build in their shop and deliver the cabinets. Same idea here.


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## Bluepine38 (Dec 14, 2009)

Glue and fasten a couple of blocks, one to each board and use countertop joining bolts, as your turnbuckles in
recesses made in the bocks before attaching. Unlike screws, these could be reused many times and easily 
replaced if lost,


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

I solved the problem. I'll post a picture later.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

Threaded inserts in corner blocks.


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## fge (Sep 8, 2008)

Good job Loren.


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

Nice


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## S4S (Jan 22, 2011)

Do I win a T-shirt ? * : ) *..........................nice build Loren .


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

Yeah… The corner block stock was jointed and planed for dimensional
consistency and a jig was made from the angled offcut from the oak
corner board to position the corner blocks precisely using clamps so
they would be screwed precisely to the sides. The inserts were
put in before. The holes for the inserts are not perfectly straight
and this is something to watch out for it you try this method - 
making a jig to hold the blocks for the drill press was too much 
of a hassle, so I did it by hand.

The rods are 10-24 so they are a little flexible and this helps compensate
for the threaded inserts not being perfectly straight.


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