# Zero Clearance Blade Inserts for Old Craftsman Tablesaw



## LeeImbimbo (Dec 27, 2009)

I was wondering if any of your have any experience making a throat insert for a tablesaw, whose factory Balde insert is only 1/8" thick. I have a craftsman model 113.298240, tablesaw that I've put a lot of time into restoring, and have gotten everything up and cleaned, and running really smoothly. However, I went to go make a few zero clearance throat plates and found myself staring at a factory throat plate that was only 1/8" thick, and really the saw could only really accommodate about a 1/4" thick plate that was rabbetted to allow for an 1/8" lip.

My thought about how to make this insert was to go ahead and take a 1/4" phenolic (if I can get that), plywood and do the standard procedure to make a throat insert, except for rabbet it to accommodate for the 1/8" lip.

My major concern is that when cranking the blade up to finalize the zero clearance plate that the thin plywood would shear or worse break apart and go flying all across the shop. So I was thinking, what if I just put another layer of 1/2" plywood over top the insert, clamp the whole mess down, and then raise the blade. This should prevent tearout of the blade insert, and at the same time yield the desired results.

My only other concern is using the insert in regular cutting operations. I'd be afraid that the thin clearance blade insert wouldn't be enough to prevent the blade from ripping it apart in normal operation.

So I thought I'd pick your brains. What I'd really love is if I could find a zero clearance insert similar to that made by Lee Valley, http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=55985&cat=1,41080,51225&ap=1 , but obviously this one that they would sell would not work for my model of craftsman.

Thanks for the help.


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## RvK (Nov 22, 2009)

Clamping a scrap over to raise the blade through sounds like the way to go. don't have experience with a thin ZCI so i won't comment on the safety of it since, well, i'm usually wrong on those things lol. I don't know if it would work with your model but I've seen a few inserts that were held in place with rare earth magnets, once you have the blade slot cut the magnets would hold it in place and should prevent it from being tossed around.


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## Builder_Bob (Jan 9, 2010)

I'm not near my shop at the moment, but I did make a zero clearance insert for my old craftsmen saw. It also required 1/8 thickness plywood which you can get in a hobby shop like this.

If I recall you can add a tab and use the existing screw to hold it in place, but definitely hold it down with something when you make the opening cut. I think I put gallon paint cans on either side of the blade.

It does the job very well, my cuts are absolutely clean with this insert.


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## davidpettinger (Aug 21, 2009)

This is my Craftsman with a ZCI from www.ttrackusa.com/zeroclearanceinserts
I thought about making my own. but this was faster and better. Besides, they came with adjusting screws to hold them in place from side to side.
When you install a ZCI, you do clamp a piece of plywood over it to hold it in place and raise the blade to create the slot.


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## Viking (Aug 26, 2009)

I saw one for Craftsman 10" at Rockler Store yesterday and think it might fit your saw. It is made to replace the thin Craftsman throat plate.

I have an early 1970's 10 craftsman that I want to put a ZCI in so plan to take my stock plate back in to Houston and compare it against the ZCI at Rockler. Will post results later.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10714&filter=insert

If you shop make one, you may not be able to lower your blade enough to clear the 1/2" material in the center of the ZCI. My blade is just barely below the top surface of the stock throat plate, when fully lowered. The Rockler plate are already partially machined on bottom side for blade clearance after you install ZCI but, before you strt saw and start to raise the blade.

Good Luck!


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## rsharp (May 6, 2008)

Lee, I made a few new inserts last week. Having used oak before, this time I tried a different material. I had a few pieces of composite deck boards (from Lowe's) from another project and thought "What the heck, let's see if it works.

The soft-plastic-like material planed and ripped easily to the approximate size. After locking the new blank in place, the blade raised through without any chance of tearout. I find it to be a very stable and quality insert material.

Give it a whirl. I think you'll like it!


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## Sawkerf (Dec 31, 2009)

When I had a Craftsman, I made my ZCI's from scraps of 1/4" ply. I cut the shape on the TS and bandsaw, sanding a bit to get a snug fit. Then I drilled a fingerhole and ran them thru the planer to get my thickness. A coat of poly usually sealed them up so I didn't get any bowing.

When I needed a new one, I lowered the blade (or dado cutter), dropped in a new ZCI, set the fence over it, started the saw and slowly raised the blade.

About once a year, I took about 30 minutes to make up 4-5 blanks, and I could set up a new one in 1-2 minutes.

I do the same process with my Jet TS except that I now use scraps of 1/2" prefinished ply.


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## LeeImbimbo (Dec 27, 2009)

Thank you for the reference to Peachtree, it appears that they advertise a ZCI that fits my model of saw, and it is made of the the kind of material I was hoping for. While their reference guide doesn't directly list my machines model number they do reference a plate that is 3/32" thick, which sounds like it may be it.

Hopefully, that one will work, otherwise I guess I'll just have to attempt to make a few myself.


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## rweitz (Dec 22, 2009)

Hi Lee,
I have the same type of insert as you and have been looking at the Peachtree site also. I did make one myself out of acrylic and some scrap wood, but the acrylic cracked and was too thick so I had to router it down - it melts btw. The 1/4" acrylic had too much bow in it for my taste so I glued and screwed some 3/4" scrap to the back after cutting it to fit both inside the opening and slotted for the blade. Once the slot was in place I clamped a 2×4 across the top of the insert to hold it in place as I raised the blade into the ZCI:



as you can see from the pics it's not pretty but it does do the job. To keep the thing in place I'm using the existing screw in the front and added a screw in the back that goes through my aluminum table top.



You can also see the acrylic has cracked where I screwed it down. Polycarbonate might work better but its more spendy and not available at the big box shop. This is really just a trial run. I make everything twice these days just to see if it works before I spend money on real materials! I have been thinking about hitting up a machinist for an aluminum version, or trying to design one with a slot for a piece of wood that is a replaceable insert like one I saw on this site: Sawmill Creek



I'm pretty sure the Rockler inserts won't work. They are still too thick and not really the right shape for my saw's throat opening. (Have to be careful with sentences like that last one or the censors will get me…)


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## alanealane (Oct 1, 2007)

I have one of the small Craftsman table saws (8" blade), which I outfitted with a custom machined 5/8" arbor and 3HP motor. I decided to make a zero-clearance insert for mine out of 1/4" Lauan plywood. My goal was to have not only an insert that could be used immediately, but also to have a pattern to use in making future inserts, so I double-stick-taped two pieces of ply together. Then, I used the original steel insert and traced its outline onto the ply, cut the ply oversize on my bandsaw, and used my Oscillating Spindle Sander to get as close to the line as I could. I test fit the insert on the TS several times, each time sanding a little more, until it reached the "perfect" fit-not too tight, not too loose. Then it was rabbeted on the router table to make the edge 1/8" thick, and the two pieces of ply were separated. A 1" hole was drilled in the insert so that it could be removed with my finger.

I used my fence over the top of the insert as I raised the blade into it.

A week or so later, I was horrified to find that the insert had warped and part of it was raised up out of the table saw by about 1/4". I then applied small pieces of masking tape to the front and back of the plate to give it a little extra length. The insert was then placed into the saw, ends first, meaning it was bent into a slight arch above the saw table. Then, as I pushed the middle of the insert down flat, the ends wedged outward into its cavity, holding the plywood insert firmly in place. It still tries to come out of the saw once in a while, but only by about 1/32", which I can tolerate.

I may experiment in the future with some different materials to make inserts. Plywood seemed to be the most stable material one could use, other than a metal like brass or aluminum (which can be safely cut with carbide blades), but it must be that in small thicknesses plywood is just as unstable as solid wood. Maybe a phenolic would be better.


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## rweitz (Dec 22, 2009)

Hi Lee,
After this post I did more diggin on the I-highway and found this at Woodworking Talk.com

I'll give this a try and let you know how it works. I'm not really satisfied with the one I have currently - just the excuse I need!


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## LeeImbimbo (Dec 27, 2009)

Just a confirmation, it appears that the guy in your link, rweitz, is hot gluing a strip of wood into the craftsman plate. Is the hot glue really strong enough to prevent that piece from going flying? With the blade spinning forward, that would mean this little strip of wood would be picked up and flung directly at me.

I wonder if there would be a way to get one of my contractor friends to weld some little brackets on let's say the larger opening Dado Blade Guard, that I could then screw a throat plate to.

Making it similar to the one showcased on Lee Valley that is reusable.


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## jacktheripper (Mar 28, 2009)

There is an easy to convert your steel throat plate to a zero clearance one.
The inventor of the Grip-Tite magnetic featherboard at the wood show in Fredricksburg showed me this one.

Sand the bottom of the steel plate and epoxy a thin piece of plywood or masonite to the bottom of the steel plate. Overlap the slot, but stay away from the edges.
Then cut a thin strip of wood and glue in the slot area. Bingo - zero clearance plate- no hassle.


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## LeeImbimbo (Dec 27, 2009)

Thanks for the tip, I think I'll try something similar. I was thinking about modifying the Dado Blade insert and allowing for enough room to incorporate a wood shim splitter, into it. Hopefully, it will all work out.


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## sittingbuller (Mar 10, 2010)

I have used quarter inch plexiglass for a zero clearance insert with good luck


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## Sawdust4Blood (Feb 16, 2010)

have you considered using ultra high molecular weight (UHMW) polyethylene? It comes in 1/8 inch sheets (and thicker), machines easily, is slick enough that stock should glide right over it, and should hold up well as either a zero clearance or dado throat plate. It's also readily available from Woodcraft and others. Great for jigs and fences.


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## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

I use 1/4 inch work hardened masonite. it is shiny on bout sides. The masonite with a waffle pattern doesn't work as well. I cut the blank to fit the throat, move my fence over the top next to where the blade will rise up and you have half of what you need. Next I cut a piece to fit the lower part of the throat and glue them together. drill for adjustment screws and install a pin to hold down the far end and use the screw in the near end. 
$22.00 for an 8×4 sheet and you can make up 10 or 20 at a time.


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## Alzark (Mar 28, 2010)

I have my dad's 1950's Dunlap (Sears cheap brand) 8" table saw-the sucker is built like a tank! The only real problem is the table is too small. It needed a new insert, the old one was bent and I made one out of 1/8" UHMW plastic. It works like a charm.


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## Obernelson (Sep 17, 2009)

Great posts. Have the same problem and was looking for a solution.


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## LeeImbimbo (Dec 27, 2009)

Oberneison -

Well I gave up trying to make my own for right now, because I walked into WOODCRAFT one day and for $25 bucks found a LeeCraft ZCI that worked perfectly for my saw. While I haven't used it yet on the saw, so I can't attest to how it holds up, it has everything I was looking for in the design, including a little hook on the back end to hold it down. Probably the only thing I'll end up doing is drilling a hole in the front end with a countersink bit to allow for the typical hold down screw that the craftsman comes with.

The one I ended up with was the model #CR-1. If you scroll down the page past all the model numbers you'll see an image of the underside, showing rabbeted edge for the lip around the craftsman. While it is a 3/16" thick high density phenolic laminate insert they were smart enough to remove out the portion of the insert right above the blade. With the blade lowered all the way on my saw, I was able to get the insert on and level it out.

I've been in the process of restoring my father's old table saw, and while I've finished the body of the saw I am now in the process of giving the motor a good once over. Once the motor is all back up and ready to go I'll hook it all up raise the blade through the insert and see how it really does.

I did also look at the Betterley ZCI, and while it is a much longer term invested, I didn't have the $90 bucks to drop on it right now, and it doesn't really allow for something like a splitter to be put into the insert. My Craftsman splitter is really kind of junk. It is very hard to align properly, and I've had it catch wood all too often when in use as the vibration of the saw makes it wobble out of alignment during a fine cut.

Here is a link to the LeeCraft ZCI.
http://www.forrestsawbladesonline.com/product_624_Leecraft_ZeroClearance_Table_Saw_Insert_14L_x_33_4W_x_3_16T.html

As I said I found it at WoodCraft for $25, and figured hey if it works it will save me time and annoyance of making my own.


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## Magnum (Feb 5, 2010)

I think there is another Post on here about the same thing, not sure where it is though.

I WAS having the same problem (different saw) and saw 2 ideas on different sites. I realize that you need a 1/8" thickness insert and the first idea below might not be "Useable" (To Thick). Maybe there's a way to Adjust it?

Buy a regular white plastic cutting board $8 $9 Bucks? (Poly …something or other) use your present insert for a pattern, rough cut with a Band Saw, use pattern again and a Flush Cut Bit with your Router to smooth out . I use Double Sided Tape to hold the Pattern in place. Cut a bunch of them at the same time. TIP: At the point where the blade is going DOWN into the insert drill a 1/2" hole, it will take the "Cuttings" down and out of the way. Usually the Cuttings with a 0 Clearance have a tendency to stay on top or "Crawl" under whatever your trying to cut. NOT good!

The other one is a "Sacraficial 0 Clearnce Table". (Somewhat the same as you've mentioned) Use a sheet of 1/8" or 1/4" Old Panelling. Cut it to a size that will pretty well cover your Saw Table when you do "0" cuts (or larger). Leave regular Insert in place. Place Panelling up against your Fence, Bring Running Blade Up Through (Carfully) and do your "0" Cut. I use some pieces of Double Sided Carpet Tape on the Underside jut for a little more holding power. Just keep "Flipping" it around until there is no more space to cut. Dispose of. Cut a new one.

While I'm here….. Those Inexpensive Cutting Boards also make Great Runners For Any type of a Sled. Easy to cut and sand. By the very nature of the Product they also Slide VERY Easily and are about the same depth as the track. Even if they are a little shallow of full depth (Mine are) they still work very well.

Hope this is of some assistance.

Rick


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## Clouseau (Feb 4, 2010)

Corian works well. You can save yourself the plunging portion by just ripping it part way and gluing in a splitter. You will have to route the edges to thickness. I use 10-32 set screws to level mine, and add a tap to the rear so it cannot accidentally lift.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

This thread was from 6 years ago, so I'm pretty sure the original poster got it squared away by now 

Cheers,
Brad

PS: This thread may be of interest to some: Craftsman Table Saw-Need a splitter


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## papadan (Mar 6, 2009)

My Ridgid was made by Emerson electric like this Craftsman was. I use laminate flooring and route the edges down to fit flush.


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## plantdude (Oct 22, 2017)

I also have an old Craftsman table saw with an 1/8" thick insert. The part is no longer available but I found one that will work on Peachtree Woodworking Supply, Inc website Go to www.ptreeusa.com/tablesawzeroclearance.html.


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## jacktheripper (Mar 28, 2009)

https://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-zero-clearance-throatplate-for-any-table-saw/

The link above will take you to a simple intstructable on making your steel craftsman plate into a zero clearance plate. I used this type for years demonstrating the Grip-Tite magnetic featherboard at woodworking shows. Many miles of 1/8" x 8' strips between the blade and fence got ripped using this plate and the Grip-Tite holding down before and after the blade
Here is an old promo video showing it in use cutting thin pieces. The same safety can be had with clamped featherboards. They just take longer to set up.






Would anyone be interested in a "how to make a DIY magnetic featherboard" video? We made a hundred thousand of them out of ash before switching to plastic.


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## plantdude (Oct 22, 2017)

I have an old Craftsman table saw with the thin insert. I found a place that sells blank ones made out of phenoic that even has the clip on the bottom like the original. It is called Peachtree USA. Their url is ptreeusa.com. Their prices are reasonalble and it was a lot easier than making my own. I bought one to use as a zero clearance insert and another to use for my dado blade.


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## Tony1212 (Aug 26, 2013)

I have a 1950's era 113.29920 Craftsman tablesaw. I found this one on Amazon. I don't remember paying $30 for it though…

I use it all the time. Works great.


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