# Spraying Quality Latex paint, is it worth it?



## JerseyJoe (Aug 29, 2008)

Hi, just getting into spraying and my first little project is a bathroom vanity. I had a little time on my hands so instead of brushing the latex paint finish I figured I would spray it just for more spraying practice.

Here is my question: I use Benjamin Moore paint which is expensive and thicker then most latexes. So in order to spray I have to thin the paint by 30%. So I'm thinking that the expensive paint I'm buying is becoming a lesser quality of paint due to the thinning process, should I just buy a cheaper Paint that is not as thick? It would save me some money.

Just thought I would ask for your advice.

Let me know.

Thanks 
Joe


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## jar944 (Jun 19, 2014)

If ypu want to stick with benjamin moore then go with there advance line (it's not latex by the way), and don't thin much more than 10%. If that is already what you tried and your spray system isn't up to spraying it at that viscosity and you don't want to upgrade spray systems there are other coating options, but cheap latex isn't one of them.

Solvent based coatings can be thinned much more than waterborne, but come with a voc penalty as well as needing to be done in a spray booth or outside.


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## Carloz (Oct 12, 2016)

I read somewhere that diluting more than 20% you irreversablychange the chemical property of the paint. In my experience even staying in the allowed 20% the latex paint looses its shine and becomes too dull.


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## Desert_Woodworker (Jan 28, 2015)

Deleted


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## SuperCubber (Feb 23, 2012)

Jar944 is right on there money.

Last year I sprayed my new kitchen cabinets. I used Sherwin Williams Arylic Alkyd (similar to BM Advance). It's thinner than most latex I've used, so I didn't have to thin it very much.

The cabinets look fantastic.


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

Never tried it myself but you might want to look into using Floetrol. I think it is suppose to help make spraying latex work better without actually thinning the paint. You might also want to pose this question to the guys at Benjamin Moore to see what they recommend.


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

If you're having to thin thirty percent, you need to upgrade your sprayer. I see four stage true HVLP systems pop up on craigslist from time to time for a good price (around $400.00).

I have a CapSprayer 4 stage and it's proven itself worth its weight over and again.


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## JerseyJoe (Aug 29, 2008)

Thank you all for your reply. This is the best site and forum for woodworkers.

Thanks again 
Joe


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## coxhaus (Dec 14, 2015)

I have an old Titan 440 airless sprayer. It takes about a 1/4 gallon to load up and then a lot to clean. I don't think it is worth it for a small job. I use it for spraying jobs of at least 5 gallons. I have been contemplating a small short hose and a fine finish tip. I just don't know if it will work or not for small jobs.


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## tomsteve (Jan 23, 2015)

> I read somewhere that diluting more than 20% you irreversablychange the chemical property of the paint. In my experience even staying in the allowed 20% the latex paint looses its shine and becomes too dull.
> 
> - Carloz


plus thinning can lighten up the shade of the color.


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## DalyArcher (May 3, 2015)

I have not sprayed yet, but brushed some cabinet doors with high quality trim and door paint. Thinned with flo-trol per the specs on the bottle. Got a great finish that doesn't look brushed. I would totally recommend using it for thinning latex paints over simply adding water.


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## SweetTea (Aug 5, 2016)

What are you guys using to spray your latex and acrylic based paints? I have used an airless sprayer for a long time but I hate it for a variety of reasons. Mainly because the amount of materials it waist and the difficulty in clean up.

With that being said, I would love to have a 4 or 5 stage turbine system, but can't afford $1,000 or more for a quality unit. There is a Greco HVLP 9.0 available locally for $500 but I am hesitant to buy it used due to not knowing its longitivity and Parts availability.

My air compressor is a 21 gallon 1.8HP and isn't up to snuff for a cup gun or paint pot. This is why I am looking into a QualSpray LVLP gun. Just haven't been fully convinced this is the right way to go.


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## SuperCubber (Feb 23, 2012)

I think you can spend a serious amount of money on a spraying set up, but I don't think the quality increases linearly with the cost. For example, for my cabinet project I mentioned above, I used a Wagner Control Spray Max. It gets a lot of negative comments just based on the name, but it has exceeded my expectations. It's around $100.

I've sprayed water-based stain and finish and it looks great. I sprayed the cabinets with acrylic alkyd paint and they look great.

I do believe I could get even better results by investing in a more expensive system like the Earlex 5500 or a Fuji system, and maybe I will someday, but this meets my needs right now.

Here are a couple pics of my cabinets:


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

I definitely would never use a cheap paint.

You don't say what, if any, spraying equipment you have, but The drawback to spraying latex as you know you have either invest in a turbine sprayer designed for it BUT, it is possible to spray latex paint through a gravity fed HVLP sprayer, you just have to thin it a lot. I've seen windshield wiper fluid used as the thinner instead of water.

FWIW, I am by far no expert at spraying, but I just finished a project using SW oil based Pro Classic satin & I REALLY like it. The finished coat is exceptional.

Unless you have an aversion oil based paint (or your state has banned them), I think its something to consider. Plus, the sprayer set up is super inexpensive. With just a little thinning, I used a $9 HF sprayer and it worked just fine.

Downside is you need a respirator, exhaust fan, clean up involves min spirits, longer drying time, which may be too involved for you, but to me, it was worth it.


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## retfr8flyr (Oct 30, 2013)

I use an Earlex 6900 HVLP sprayer for all my needs. I spray latex paint just fine with it and an old friend gave me a tip that has worked well. I use winter windshield washer fluid to thin the latex paint about 10%, it makes it flow and lay down very well and is very cheap. The color of the fluid doesn't seem to effect the paint color in any way, I usually use the blue colored stuff from Wamart and I have had excellent results using this method.


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

He shoots, he scores.

Turned out good.

I have a Capsray four stage and an Accuspray system, but I still use my Cricket/


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

Rather than fighting a compressor, I'd keep doing what you're doing and hold out for a four stage or better off craigslist. I've seen several over the years and they tend to run around four hundred. However, for that price, they'd better have the hose and the gun.

Of course, there are the "craigslisters must be nuts" type. I mess hard with an ass trying to sell his five stage for show room prices. I ran adds offering to sell a new one plus a hundred dollar handling fee from Sherwin Williams to mess with his add. Of course, he got pissed, cause he was a professional and so was his sprayer.

I like both my Accuspray (which is a dedicated conversion system) and my four stage for latex. I've used the Accuspray to spray a room, just to see how it would do (great) and my four stage for many fences and railings, the latter at which it REALLY shines, since you can tune it down to just enough spray to hit the 1-1/2 styles and rails. Of course, you can crank it up to cover a cabinet door too.



> What are you guys using to spray your latex and acrylic based paints? I have used an airless sprayer for a long time but I hate it for a variety of reasons. Mainly because the amount of materials it waist and the difficulty in clean up.
> 
> - SweetTea


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## SweetTea (Aug 5, 2016)

Any one tried out the LVLP gun from QualSpray?

If running a 1 gallon paint pot setup with a Binks SV1000 spray gun, what do you guys think is the real world minimum compressor requirements?


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## JerseyJoe (Aug 29, 2008)

Hi everyone, again thank you for the input and recommendations. To answer one of the questions regarding my sprayer, I just picked up a Fuji 4 Stage HVLP system.

So I built a small vanity and I'm painting it with BM Advance. I used the viscosity cup and out of the can the drip time was over 2 mins. So, I know it was to thick. To be honest with you the vanity was so small that I decided to brush and roll it. I'm still trying to figure out the thinning process, I even bought Encore Mix n Measure to see if that will make the thinning process easier. I did spray the primer and use floetrol to thin the primer. I like the wind shield washer fluid idea.

I have to figure this all out before my next project, kitchen cabinet doors, which will to many to hand paint.

Thanks again for all the advice and guidance.

Regards, 
Joe


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## TungOil (Jan 16, 2017)

I know people do it successfully, but why even bother trying to spray latex paint in the first place? Latex paint is formulated for brushing/rolling. Consider spraying an opaque lacquer instead. You will get a better finish off the gun. There are many options, but in water borne the Target Coatings EM6500 can be tinted to match any color in the BM spectrum. Something to consider for your kitchen project.


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

I disagree that latex is formulated for brush and roller. I used hundreds of gallons commercially applying it with brush, roller, airless and HVLP. It was all good, whether adding a bit of Flotrol or using it straight. My only rule was, I couldn't afford cheap.


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## SweetTea (Aug 5, 2016)

> I know people do it successfully, but why even bother trying to spray latex paint in the first place? Latex paint is formulated for brushing/rolling. Consider spraying an opaque lacquer instead. You will get a better finish off the gun. There are many options, but in water borne the Target Coatings EM6500 can be tinted to match any color in the BM spectrum. Something to consider for your kitchen project.
> 
> - TungOil


Can you get a lacquer in white or alabaster? Where can this be purchased? Is this the preferred method and product by cabinet makers?


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## TungOil (Jan 16, 2017)

> Can you get a lacquer in white or alabaster? Where can this be purchased? Is this the preferred method and product by cabinet makers?
> 
> - SweetTea


Yes, one source is Target Coatings, but there are others like General Finishes, etc:

https://www.targetcoatings.com/product/emtech-em6500-wb-bright-white-pastel-lacquer/

Target claims EM6500 can be tinted to match any color needed. Lacquer is relatively easy to spray with even basic spray equipment since it is very forgiving. Call Jeff at Target and he will give you good advice to match your specific application.

As for lacquer being the 'preferred' topcoat by cabinet makers, that is harder to answer. in the 70's and early 80's the answer was certainly yes. Since then a lot of improved products have come to market like conversion varnishes, etc. but these are more difficult to apply and in some cases require special equipment or environmental controls. But one thing remains true- lacquer is still a very forgiving topcoat which makes it well suited for DIY folks that lack the sophisticated spray equipment and booths needed to handle the newer finishes. Water borne products are especially suited to DIY since you eliminate a lot of the solvent safety and disposal issues.

The reason I like lacquer is that they 'burn in' to the previous coats, essentially becoming one thick coat after all the applications are sprayed. This allows the final finish to be more easily rubbed out if necessary without the risk of rubbing through the top layer and exposing the layer below. They can also be easily repaired later if needed. Overall they are very forgiving to spray and rub out which (in my opinion) makes them the best sprayable topcoat for DIYers. A lacquer finish will generally not be as durable as some of the newer topcoats like conversion varnish, but should produce a smoother, more durable finish than a latex based product.

Just my opinion based on my personal experience.


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## SweetTea (Aug 5, 2016)

> Can you get a lacquer in white or alabaster? Where can this be purchased? Is this the preferred method and product by cabinet makers?
> 
> - SweetTea
> 
> ...


Ok, thank you for the info. What are the pro's and con's of spraying a white tinted lacquer in a shop setting, on cabinetry using an HVLP gun, versus spraying regular latex paints and primers? What about spraying oil based or acrylic water based paints in the same situation?


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## TungOil (Jan 16, 2017)

> Ok, thank you for the info. What are the pro's and con's of spraying a white tinted lacquer in a shop setting, on cabinetry using an HVLP gun, versus spraying regular latex paints and primers? What about spraying oil based or acrylic water based paints in the same situation?
> 
> - SweetTea


Someone with more experience spraying the various products like Charles Neil would be best able to answer these questions.

From my experience lacquers dry very quickly, which makes them well suited for those of us that have to spray in temporary spray booths or outdoors. Less time for dust and bugs to contaminate the finish. The oil based products I have used dry very slowly- usually I need to wait 24 hours to recoat. With lacquer I can recoat in an hour or less at times and get a typical piece of furniture completely finished in a day. When I worked in a production shop we routinely sprayed out a kitchen in the morning, then loaded the truck in the afternoon for installation the next day.


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## SweetTea (Aug 5, 2016)

Does anyone know if the tinted white lacquer (or any other color of tinted lacquer) dries as fast as clear lacquer?


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