# Restoring Hand Planes.. My methods



## Dcase

*Intro and first step of cleaning & rust removal *

There are many good blogs, articles and web pages out there that give you all you need to know about restoring old hand planes. Most of what I learned I got from other peoples advice. Even though there are many resources out there for restoring planes I found myself learning new tips and tricks from each and every one of them. I decided to do a series of blogs on my methods for restoring planes. Most of what I discuss you may all ready know from reading other blogs and sites but hopefully I can offer some new tips and advice that you may be able to use.

*NOTE*: Of all the How to's that I have read I have learned that there are many different methods to doing this stuff. My blogs may not offer the best possible way to do it but rather just my method of doing things. If you have any of your own advice feel free to share it with me as I am always looking for new tips.

*Choosing which planes to restore* - Choosing what is worth restoring is all a personal preference. I have read sites and blogs where the writer says not to waist your time on certain planes. I say its your time and you can spend it how ever you want to spend it. The first plane I ever restored was a Shelton Jack Plane. When researching Shelton planes I found many comments saying they were junk and not to waist your time restoring them. I did it anyway and the Shelton IMO is just as well built and good as my Stanley Bailey planes. Had I not "waisted" my time on it then I would have missed out on a good plane and forked over more money to buy a Stanley. Don't get me wrong old Stanley planes are great to restore but there are other plane makes out there that have the same design as the Stanley Bailey planes that will work just as well as the Stanley's. Its not up to me or anyone else to tell you how to spend your free time so don't let anyone make you think something is not worth the time. Even if the plane is considered a junk plane, you will learn a lot restoring it and if your like me you will have a lot of fun and get a lot of enjoyment out of the whole process.

*Step 1- Cleaning and Rust Removal -* I personally look for the planes with the most rust. For one they are usually a lot cheaper on Ebay and I also like the challenge. I get such joy out of taking a hunk of rust and making it look new again. Don't be scared of Rust. I have never not been able to remove all rust from a tool.

The pictures that I post throughout this blog series will be from a number of different planes that I have restored.





The first thing I do is take the plane apart. You may need to spray some WD-40 on the screws if they wont turn. Make sure all parts are there and nothing is broke. If anything is missing or broke you may not want to restore. Many parts can be bought on Ebay so if its just a screw or two its not a big deal. I take the planes apart next to my kitchen sink. Once apart I wash each part off with simple green. I don't take a lot of time washing them, just enough to get any chunks sawdust and dirt off. Once cleaned the rusted parts are ready to be soaked over night in Evapo-Rust

*EVAPO-RUST* Every woodworker should have a jug of Evapo-Rust in their shop. This stuff is amazing. Most woodworkers deal with rust on their tools. Saw blades, router bits, nuts, bolts, saws, ext ext. Soak it in this stuff over night and the rust will be gone. I have cleaned rust off of all of my tools with this stuff. Even a badly rusted plane or tool will come out pretty much rust free after a nights soaking. You can find this at auto parts shops and Harbor Freight sells it as well. I have seen it in two sizes. The larger jug is 20 dollars and the smaller is 10 dollars. For 20 dollars you get a lot more. It is kind of expensive but I came up with some ways to help make it last.



For the smaller screws and parts I just pour a small amount of Evapo-Rust in an empty glass jar. You only need enough to cover the parts.




For the larger parts of the plane I came up with a good way to soak them without using up all of the solution. What I do is put the larger plane parts in a plastic bag. A zip lock freezer bag will work best but any bag will do. If its not a heavy duty bag you may want to double or even triple up the bags. The sharp parts can poke through the plastic. Once in the bag bring you can pour in the Evapo-Rust. You will want to do this over the sink or an empty container in case you have a hole and some leaks out. Using a bag will allow you to completely cover the object without using much solution. Tie off the bag and let it soak over night. After soaking for a night (don't panic if you let it soak longer) you can remove the plane from the bag. Carefully take the parts out of the bag and into the sink or a container to be washed. The left over Evapo-Rust in the bag is not to throw away. You can use this again, and again and again. If you have it in a zip lock bag you can just zip it and leave it for next time. Another thing you can do is put the bag in a funnel with a few coffee filters and poke some holes in the bag. Filter the solution into another container. The filters will clear out any larger chunks and you can seal the rest in another container to use again down the road. You can also filter the solution that is in the jar with the smaller parts.

After your parts are removed from the Evapo-Rust you will want to wash them right away. The parts will still have loose rust and dirt on them, you don't want that to harden as it will take more time to get it off. I use a green abrasive pad and scrub them with soap and water in the sink. After a good scrubbing you will all ready see a huge improvement in the looks.

Once you are done washing you will want to dry them right away! Dry them off as good as you can and then some. I have found if you let them sit a day or so you will start to see some surface rust form again.

If you have not used the Evapo-Rust before you will be amazed at the difference it makes. If you choose you can go head and rust proof your plane or tool with some wax or spray, tune it and start using it after the cleaning and rust removal. I like to do a complete restore though and really make it shine. My next blog entry will discuss the finer detail steps with many more pics. Thats all for now. Hope these tips help someone.

Thanks for reading and watch for more.


----------



## bigike

Dcase said:


> *Intro and first step of cleaning & rust removal *
> 
> There are many good blogs, articles and web pages out there that give you all you need to know about restoring old hand planes. Most of what I learned I got from other peoples advice. Even though there are many resources out there for restoring planes I found myself learning new tips and tricks from each and every one of them. I decided to do a series of blogs on my methods for restoring planes. Most of what I discuss you may all ready know from reading other blogs and sites but hopefully I can offer some new tips and advice that you may be able to use.
> 
> *NOTE*: Of all the How to's that I have read I have learned that there are many different methods to doing this stuff. My blogs may not offer the best possible way to do it but rather just my method of doing things. If you have any of your own advice feel free to share it with me as I am always looking for new tips.
> 
> *Choosing which planes to restore* - Choosing what is worth restoring is all a personal preference. I have read sites and blogs where the writer says not to waist your time on certain planes. I say its your time and you can spend it how ever you want to spend it. The first plane I ever restored was a Shelton Jack Plane. When researching Shelton planes I found many comments saying they were junk and not to waist your time restoring them. I did it anyway and the Shelton IMO is just as well built and good as my Stanley Bailey planes. Had I not "waisted" my time on it then I would have missed out on a good plane and forked over more money to buy a Stanley. Don't get me wrong old Stanley planes are great to restore but there are other plane makes out there that have the same design as the Stanley Bailey planes that will work just as well as the Stanley's. Its not up to me or anyone else to tell you how to spend your free time so don't let anyone make you think something is not worth the time. Even if the plane is considered a junk plane, you will learn a lot restoring it and if your like me you will have a lot of fun and get a lot of enjoyment out of the whole process.
> 
> *Step 1- Cleaning and Rust Removal -* I personally look for the planes with the most rust. For one they are usually a lot cheaper on Ebay and I also like the challenge. I get such joy out of taking a hunk of rust and making it look new again. Don't be scared of Rust. I have never not been able to remove all rust from a tool.
> 
> The pictures that I post throughout this blog series will be from a number of different planes that I have restored.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I do is take the plane apart. You may need to spray some WD-40 on the screws if they wont turn. Make sure all parts are there and nothing is broke. If anything is missing or broke you may not want to restore. Many parts can be bought on Ebay so if its just a screw or two its not a big deal. I take the planes apart next to my kitchen sink. Once apart I wash each part off with simple green. I don't take a lot of time washing them, just enough to get any chunks sawdust and dirt off. Once cleaned the rusted parts are ready to be soaked over night in Evapo-Rust
> 
> *EVAPO-RUST* Every woodworker should have a jug of Evapo-Rust in their shop. This stuff is amazing. Most woodworkers deal with rust on their tools. Saw blades, router bits, nuts, bolts, saws, ext ext. Soak it in this stuff over night and the rust will be gone. I have cleaned rust off of all of my tools with this stuff. Even a badly rusted plane or tool will come out pretty much rust free after a nights soaking. You can find this at auto parts shops and Harbor Freight sells it as well. I have seen it in two sizes. The larger jug is 20 dollars and the smaller is 10 dollars. For 20 dollars you get a lot more. It is kind of expensive but I came up with some ways to help make it last.
> 
> 
> 
> For the smaller screws and parts I just pour a small amount of Evapo-Rust in an empty glass jar. You only need enough to cover the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the larger parts of the plane I came up with a good way to soak them without using up all of the solution. What I do is put the larger plane parts in a plastic bag. A zip lock freezer bag will work best but any bag will do. If its not a heavy duty bag you may want to double or even triple up the bags. The sharp parts can poke through the plastic. Once in the bag bring you can pour in the Evapo-Rust. You will want to do this over the sink or an empty container in case you have a hole and some leaks out. Using a bag will allow you to completely cover the object without using much solution. Tie off the bag and let it soak over night. After soaking for a night (don't panic if you let it soak longer) you can remove the plane from the bag. Carefully take the parts out of the bag and into the sink or a container to be washed. The left over Evapo-Rust in the bag is not to throw away. You can use this again, and again and again. If you have it in a zip lock bag you can just zip it and leave it for next time. Another thing you can do is put the bag in a funnel with a few coffee filters and poke some holes in the bag. Filter the solution into another container. The filters will clear out any larger chunks and you can seal the rest in another container to use again down the road. You can also filter the solution that is in the jar with the smaller parts.
> 
> After your parts are removed from the Evapo-Rust you will want to wash them right away. The parts will still have loose rust and dirt on them, you don't want that to harden as it will take more time to get it off. I use a green abrasive pad and scrub them with soap and water in the sink. After a good scrubbing you will all ready see a huge improvement in the looks.
> 
> Once you are done washing you will want to dry them right away! Dry them off as good as you can and then some. I have found if you let them sit a day or so you will start to see some surface rust form again.
> 
> If you have not used the Evapo-Rust before you will be amazed at the difference it makes. If you choose you can go head and rust proof your plane or tool with some wax or spray, tune it and start using it after the cleaning and rust removal. I like to do a complete restore though and really make it shine. My next blog entry will discuss the finer detail steps with many more pics. Thats all for now. Hope these tips help someone.
> 
> Thanks for reading and watch for more.


good start, cant wait to see the finnish.


----------



## Dennisgrosen

Dcase said:


> *Intro and first step of cleaning & rust removal *
> 
> There are many good blogs, articles and web pages out there that give you all you need to know about restoring old hand planes. Most of what I learned I got from other peoples advice. Even though there are many resources out there for restoring planes I found myself learning new tips and tricks from each and every one of them. I decided to do a series of blogs on my methods for restoring planes. Most of what I discuss you may all ready know from reading other blogs and sites but hopefully I can offer some new tips and advice that you may be able to use.
> 
> *NOTE*: Of all the How to's that I have read I have learned that there are many different methods to doing this stuff. My blogs may not offer the best possible way to do it but rather just my method of doing things. If you have any of your own advice feel free to share it with me as I am always looking for new tips.
> 
> *Choosing which planes to restore* - Choosing what is worth restoring is all a personal preference. I have read sites and blogs where the writer says not to waist your time on certain planes. I say its your time and you can spend it how ever you want to spend it. The first plane I ever restored was a Shelton Jack Plane. When researching Shelton planes I found many comments saying they were junk and not to waist your time restoring them. I did it anyway and the Shelton IMO is just as well built and good as my Stanley Bailey planes. Had I not "waisted" my time on it then I would have missed out on a good plane and forked over more money to buy a Stanley. Don't get me wrong old Stanley planes are great to restore but there are other plane makes out there that have the same design as the Stanley Bailey planes that will work just as well as the Stanley's. Its not up to me or anyone else to tell you how to spend your free time so don't let anyone make you think something is not worth the time. Even if the plane is considered a junk plane, you will learn a lot restoring it and if your like me you will have a lot of fun and get a lot of enjoyment out of the whole process.
> 
> *Step 1- Cleaning and Rust Removal -* I personally look for the planes with the most rust. For one they are usually a lot cheaper on Ebay and I also like the challenge. I get such joy out of taking a hunk of rust and making it look new again. Don't be scared of Rust. I have never not been able to remove all rust from a tool.
> 
> The pictures that I post throughout this blog series will be from a number of different planes that I have restored.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I do is take the plane apart. You may need to spray some WD-40 on the screws if they wont turn. Make sure all parts are there and nothing is broke. If anything is missing or broke you may not want to restore. Many parts can be bought on Ebay so if its just a screw or two its not a big deal. I take the planes apart next to my kitchen sink. Once apart I wash each part off with simple green. I don't take a lot of time washing them, just enough to get any chunks sawdust and dirt off. Once cleaned the rusted parts are ready to be soaked over night in Evapo-Rust
> 
> *EVAPO-RUST* Every woodworker should have a jug of Evapo-Rust in their shop. This stuff is amazing. Most woodworkers deal with rust on their tools. Saw blades, router bits, nuts, bolts, saws, ext ext. Soak it in this stuff over night and the rust will be gone. I have cleaned rust off of all of my tools with this stuff. Even a badly rusted plane or tool will come out pretty much rust free after a nights soaking. You can find this at auto parts shops and Harbor Freight sells it as well. I have seen it in two sizes. The larger jug is 20 dollars and the smaller is 10 dollars. For 20 dollars you get a lot more. It is kind of expensive but I came up with some ways to help make it last.
> 
> 
> 
> For the smaller screws and parts I just pour a small amount of Evapo-Rust in an empty glass jar. You only need enough to cover the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the larger parts of the plane I came up with a good way to soak them without using up all of the solution. What I do is put the larger plane parts in a plastic bag. A zip lock freezer bag will work best but any bag will do. If its not a heavy duty bag you may want to double or even triple up the bags. The sharp parts can poke through the plastic. Once in the bag bring you can pour in the Evapo-Rust. You will want to do this over the sink or an empty container in case you have a hole and some leaks out. Using a bag will allow you to completely cover the object without using much solution. Tie off the bag and let it soak over night. After soaking for a night (don't panic if you let it soak longer) you can remove the plane from the bag. Carefully take the parts out of the bag and into the sink or a container to be washed. The left over Evapo-Rust in the bag is not to throw away. You can use this again, and again and again. If you have it in a zip lock bag you can just zip it and leave it for next time. Another thing you can do is put the bag in a funnel with a few coffee filters and poke some holes in the bag. Filter the solution into another container. The filters will clear out any larger chunks and you can seal the rest in another container to use again down the road. You can also filter the solution that is in the jar with the smaller parts.
> 
> After your parts are removed from the Evapo-Rust you will want to wash them right away. The parts will still have loose rust and dirt on them, you don't want that to harden as it will take more time to get it off. I use a green abrasive pad and scrub them with soap and water in the sink. After a good scrubbing you will all ready see a huge improvement in the looks.
> 
> Once you are done washing you will want to dry them right away! Dry them off as good as you can and then some. I have found if you let them sit a day or so you will start to see some surface rust form again.
> 
> If you have not used the Evapo-Rust before you will be amazed at the difference it makes. If you choose you can go head and rust proof your plane or tool with some wax or spray, tune it and start using it after the cleaning and rust removal. I like to do a complete restore though and really make it shine. My next blog entry will discuss the finer detail steps with many more pics. Thats all for now. Hope these tips help someone.
> 
> Thanks for reading and watch for more.


this is going to be an interresting blogserie to follow
thank´s for sharing and taking the time to do it with a picturebook 

take care
Dennis


----------



## BigTiny

Dcase said:


> *Intro and first step of cleaning & rust removal *
> 
> There are many good blogs, articles and web pages out there that give you all you need to know about restoring old hand planes. Most of what I learned I got from other peoples advice. Even though there are many resources out there for restoring planes I found myself learning new tips and tricks from each and every one of them. I decided to do a series of blogs on my methods for restoring planes. Most of what I discuss you may all ready know from reading other blogs and sites but hopefully I can offer some new tips and advice that you may be able to use.
> 
> *NOTE*: Of all the How to's that I have read I have learned that there are many different methods to doing this stuff. My blogs may not offer the best possible way to do it but rather just my method of doing things. If you have any of your own advice feel free to share it with me as I am always looking for new tips.
> 
> *Choosing which planes to restore* - Choosing what is worth restoring is all a personal preference. I have read sites and blogs where the writer says not to waist your time on certain planes. I say its your time and you can spend it how ever you want to spend it. The first plane I ever restored was a Shelton Jack Plane. When researching Shelton planes I found many comments saying they were junk and not to waist your time restoring them. I did it anyway and the Shelton IMO is just as well built and good as my Stanley Bailey planes. Had I not "waisted" my time on it then I would have missed out on a good plane and forked over more money to buy a Stanley. Don't get me wrong old Stanley planes are great to restore but there are other plane makes out there that have the same design as the Stanley Bailey planes that will work just as well as the Stanley's. Its not up to me or anyone else to tell you how to spend your free time so don't let anyone make you think something is not worth the time. Even if the plane is considered a junk plane, you will learn a lot restoring it and if your like me you will have a lot of fun and get a lot of enjoyment out of the whole process.
> 
> *Step 1- Cleaning and Rust Removal -* I personally look for the planes with the most rust. For one they are usually a lot cheaper on Ebay and I also like the challenge. I get such joy out of taking a hunk of rust and making it look new again. Don't be scared of Rust. I have never not been able to remove all rust from a tool.
> 
> The pictures that I post throughout this blog series will be from a number of different planes that I have restored.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I do is take the plane apart. You may need to spray some WD-40 on the screws if they wont turn. Make sure all parts are there and nothing is broke. If anything is missing or broke you may not want to restore. Many parts can be bought on Ebay so if its just a screw or two its not a big deal. I take the planes apart next to my kitchen sink. Once apart I wash each part off with simple green. I don't take a lot of time washing them, just enough to get any chunks sawdust and dirt off. Once cleaned the rusted parts are ready to be soaked over night in Evapo-Rust
> 
> *EVAPO-RUST* Every woodworker should have a jug of Evapo-Rust in their shop. This stuff is amazing. Most woodworkers deal with rust on their tools. Saw blades, router bits, nuts, bolts, saws, ext ext. Soak it in this stuff over night and the rust will be gone. I have cleaned rust off of all of my tools with this stuff. Even a badly rusted plane or tool will come out pretty much rust free after a nights soaking. You can find this at auto parts shops and Harbor Freight sells it as well. I have seen it in two sizes. The larger jug is 20 dollars and the smaller is 10 dollars. For 20 dollars you get a lot more. It is kind of expensive but I came up with some ways to help make it last.
> 
> 
> 
> For the smaller screws and parts I just pour a small amount of Evapo-Rust in an empty glass jar. You only need enough to cover the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the larger parts of the plane I came up with a good way to soak them without using up all of the solution. What I do is put the larger plane parts in a plastic bag. A zip lock freezer bag will work best but any bag will do. If its not a heavy duty bag you may want to double or even triple up the bags. The sharp parts can poke through the plastic. Once in the bag bring you can pour in the Evapo-Rust. You will want to do this over the sink or an empty container in case you have a hole and some leaks out. Using a bag will allow you to completely cover the object without using much solution. Tie off the bag and let it soak over night. After soaking for a night (don't panic if you let it soak longer) you can remove the plane from the bag. Carefully take the parts out of the bag and into the sink or a container to be washed. The left over Evapo-Rust in the bag is not to throw away. You can use this again, and again and again. If you have it in a zip lock bag you can just zip it and leave it for next time. Another thing you can do is put the bag in a funnel with a few coffee filters and poke some holes in the bag. Filter the solution into another container. The filters will clear out any larger chunks and you can seal the rest in another container to use again down the road. You can also filter the solution that is in the jar with the smaller parts.
> 
> After your parts are removed from the Evapo-Rust you will want to wash them right away. The parts will still have loose rust and dirt on them, you don't want that to harden as it will take more time to get it off. I use a green abrasive pad and scrub them with soap and water in the sink. After a good scrubbing you will all ready see a huge improvement in the looks.
> 
> Once you are done washing you will want to dry them right away! Dry them off as good as you can and then some. I have found if you let them sit a day or so you will start to see some surface rust form again.
> 
> If you have not used the Evapo-Rust before you will be amazed at the difference it makes. If you choose you can go head and rust proof your plane or tool with some wax or spray, tune it and start using it after the cleaning and rust removal. I like to do a complete restore though and really make it shine. My next blog entry will discuss the finer detail steps with many more pics. Thats all for now. Hope these tips help someone.
> 
> Thanks for reading and watch for more.


You ever try electrolosis to remove rust? Works great.


----------



## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *Intro and first step of cleaning & rust removal *
> 
> There are many good blogs, articles and web pages out there that give you all you need to know about restoring old hand planes. Most of what I learned I got from other peoples advice. Even though there are many resources out there for restoring planes I found myself learning new tips and tricks from each and every one of them. I decided to do a series of blogs on my methods for restoring planes. Most of what I discuss you may all ready know from reading other blogs and sites but hopefully I can offer some new tips and advice that you may be able to use.
> 
> *NOTE*: Of all the How to's that I have read I have learned that there are many different methods to doing this stuff. My blogs may not offer the best possible way to do it but rather just my method of doing things. If you have any of your own advice feel free to share it with me as I am always looking for new tips.
> 
> *Choosing which planes to restore* - Choosing what is worth restoring is all a personal preference. I have read sites and blogs where the writer says not to waist your time on certain planes. I say its your time and you can spend it how ever you want to spend it. The first plane I ever restored was a Shelton Jack Plane. When researching Shelton planes I found many comments saying they were junk and not to waist your time restoring them. I did it anyway and the Shelton IMO is just as well built and good as my Stanley Bailey planes. Had I not "waisted" my time on it then I would have missed out on a good plane and forked over more money to buy a Stanley. Don't get me wrong old Stanley planes are great to restore but there are other plane makes out there that have the same design as the Stanley Bailey planes that will work just as well as the Stanley's. Its not up to me or anyone else to tell you how to spend your free time so don't let anyone make you think something is not worth the time. Even if the plane is considered a junk plane, you will learn a lot restoring it and if your like me you will have a lot of fun and get a lot of enjoyment out of the whole process.
> 
> *Step 1- Cleaning and Rust Removal -* I personally look for the planes with the most rust. For one they are usually a lot cheaper on Ebay and I also like the challenge. I get such joy out of taking a hunk of rust and making it look new again. Don't be scared of Rust. I have never not been able to remove all rust from a tool.
> 
> The pictures that I post throughout this blog series will be from a number of different planes that I have restored.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I do is take the plane apart. You may need to spray some WD-40 on the screws if they wont turn. Make sure all parts are there and nothing is broke. If anything is missing or broke you may not want to restore. Many parts can be bought on Ebay so if its just a screw or two its not a big deal. I take the planes apart next to my kitchen sink. Once apart I wash each part off with simple green. I don't take a lot of time washing them, just enough to get any chunks sawdust and dirt off. Once cleaned the rusted parts are ready to be soaked over night in Evapo-Rust
> 
> *EVAPO-RUST* Every woodworker should have a jug of Evapo-Rust in their shop. This stuff is amazing. Most woodworkers deal with rust on their tools. Saw blades, router bits, nuts, bolts, saws, ext ext. Soak it in this stuff over night and the rust will be gone. I have cleaned rust off of all of my tools with this stuff. Even a badly rusted plane or tool will come out pretty much rust free after a nights soaking. You can find this at auto parts shops and Harbor Freight sells it as well. I have seen it in two sizes. The larger jug is 20 dollars and the smaller is 10 dollars. For 20 dollars you get a lot more. It is kind of expensive but I came up with some ways to help make it last.
> 
> 
> 
> For the smaller screws and parts I just pour a small amount of Evapo-Rust in an empty glass jar. You only need enough to cover the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the larger parts of the plane I came up with a good way to soak them without using up all of the solution. What I do is put the larger plane parts in a plastic bag. A zip lock freezer bag will work best but any bag will do. If its not a heavy duty bag you may want to double or even triple up the bags. The sharp parts can poke through the plastic. Once in the bag bring you can pour in the Evapo-Rust. You will want to do this over the sink or an empty container in case you have a hole and some leaks out. Using a bag will allow you to completely cover the object without using much solution. Tie off the bag and let it soak over night. After soaking for a night (don't panic if you let it soak longer) you can remove the plane from the bag. Carefully take the parts out of the bag and into the sink or a container to be washed. The left over Evapo-Rust in the bag is not to throw away. You can use this again, and again and again. If you have it in a zip lock bag you can just zip it and leave it for next time. Another thing you can do is put the bag in a funnel with a few coffee filters and poke some holes in the bag. Filter the solution into another container. The filters will clear out any larger chunks and you can seal the rest in another container to use again down the road. You can also filter the solution that is in the jar with the smaller parts.
> 
> After your parts are removed from the Evapo-Rust you will want to wash them right away. The parts will still have loose rust and dirt on them, you don't want that to harden as it will take more time to get it off. I use a green abrasive pad and scrub them with soap and water in the sink. After a good scrubbing you will all ready see a huge improvement in the looks.
> 
> Once you are done washing you will want to dry them right away! Dry them off as good as you can and then some. I have found if you let them sit a day or so you will start to see some surface rust form again.
> 
> If you have not used the Evapo-Rust before you will be amazed at the difference it makes. If you choose you can go head and rust proof your plane or tool with some wax or spray, tune it and start using it after the cleaning and rust removal. I like to do a complete restore though and really make it shine. My next blog entry will discuss the finer detail steps with many more pics. Thats all for now. Hope these tips help someone.
> 
> Thanks for reading and watch for more.


Big Tiny - I have not tried it yet no. I have read a lot about it and have all the plans/directions to do it so I will probably give it a try sometime. I don't think I have a power source laying around to hook up to it so I would have to get something.


----------



## ratchet

Dcase said:


> *Intro and first step of cleaning & rust removal *
> 
> There are many good blogs, articles and web pages out there that give you all you need to know about restoring old hand planes. Most of what I learned I got from other peoples advice. Even though there are many resources out there for restoring planes I found myself learning new tips and tricks from each and every one of them. I decided to do a series of blogs on my methods for restoring planes. Most of what I discuss you may all ready know from reading other blogs and sites but hopefully I can offer some new tips and advice that you may be able to use.
> 
> *NOTE*: Of all the How to's that I have read I have learned that there are many different methods to doing this stuff. My blogs may not offer the best possible way to do it but rather just my method of doing things. If you have any of your own advice feel free to share it with me as I am always looking for new tips.
> 
> *Choosing which planes to restore* - Choosing what is worth restoring is all a personal preference. I have read sites and blogs where the writer says not to waist your time on certain planes. I say its your time and you can spend it how ever you want to spend it. The first plane I ever restored was a Shelton Jack Plane. When researching Shelton planes I found many comments saying they were junk and not to waist your time restoring them. I did it anyway and the Shelton IMO is just as well built and good as my Stanley Bailey planes. Had I not "waisted" my time on it then I would have missed out on a good plane and forked over more money to buy a Stanley. Don't get me wrong old Stanley planes are great to restore but there are other plane makes out there that have the same design as the Stanley Bailey planes that will work just as well as the Stanley's. Its not up to me or anyone else to tell you how to spend your free time so don't let anyone make you think something is not worth the time. Even if the plane is considered a junk plane, you will learn a lot restoring it and if your like me you will have a lot of fun and get a lot of enjoyment out of the whole process.
> 
> *Step 1- Cleaning and Rust Removal -* I personally look for the planes with the most rust. For one they are usually a lot cheaper on Ebay and I also like the challenge. I get such joy out of taking a hunk of rust and making it look new again. Don't be scared of Rust. I have never not been able to remove all rust from a tool.
> 
> The pictures that I post throughout this blog series will be from a number of different planes that I have restored.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I do is take the plane apart. You may need to spray some WD-40 on the screws if they wont turn. Make sure all parts are there and nothing is broke. If anything is missing or broke you may not want to restore. Many parts can be bought on Ebay so if its just a screw or two its not a big deal. I take the planes apart next to my kitchen sink. Once apart I wash each part off with simple green. I don't take a lot of time washing them, just enough to get any chunks sawdust and dirt off. Once cleaned the rusted parts are ready to be soaked over night in Evapo-Rust
> 
> *EVAPO-RUST* Every woodworker should have a jug of Evapo-Rust in their shop. This stuff is amazing. Most woodworkers deal with rust on their tools. Saw blades, router bits, nuts, bolts, saws, ext ext. Soak it in this stuff over night and the rust will be gone. I have cleaned rust off of all of my tools with this stuff. Even a badly rusted plane or tool will come out pretty much rust free after a nights soaking. You can find this at auto parts shops and Harbor Freight sells it as well. I have seen it in two sizes. The larger jug is 20 dollars and the smaller is 10 dollars. For 20 dollars you get a lot more. It is kind of expensive but I came up with some ways to help make it last.
> 
> 
> 
> For the smaller screws and parts I just pour a small amount of Evapo-Rust in an empty glass jar. You only need enough to cover the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the larger parts of the plane I came up with a good way to soak them without using up all of the solution. What I do is put the larger plane parts in a plastic bag. A zip lock freezer bag will work best but any bag will do. If its not a heavy duty bag you may want to double or even triple up the bags. The sharp parts can poke through the plastic. Once in the bag bring you can pour in the Evapo-Rust. You will want to do this over the sink or an empty container in case you have a hole and some leaks out. Using a bag will allow you to completely cover the object without using much solution. Tie off the bag and let it soak over night. After soaking for a night (don't panic if you let it soak longer) you can remove the plane from the bag. Carefully take the parts out of the bag and into the sink or a container to be washed. The left over Evapo-Rust in the bag is not to throw away. You can use this again, and again and again. If you have it in a zip lock bag you can just zip it and leave it for next time. Another thing you can do is put the bag in a funnel with a few coffee filters and poke some holes in the bag. Filter the solution into another container. The filters will clear out any larger chunks and you can seal the rest in another container to use again down the road. You can also filter the solution that is in the jar with the smaller parts.
> 
> After your parts are removed from the Evapo-Rust you will want to wash them right away. The parts will still have loose rust and dirt on them, you don't want that to harden as it will take more time to get it off. I use a green abrasive pad and scrub them with soap and water in the sink. After a good scrubbing you will all ready see a huge improvement in the looks.
> 
> Once you are done washing you will want to dry them right away! Dry them off as good as you can and then some. I have found if you let them sit a day or so you will start to see some surface rust form again.
> 
> If you have not used the Evapo-Rust before you will be amazed at the difference it makes. If you choose you can go head and rust proof your plane or tool with some wax or spray, tune it and start using it after the cleaning and rust removal. I like to do a complete restore though and really make it shine. My next blog entry will discuss the finer detail steps with many more pics. Thats all for now. Hope these tips help someone.
> 
> Thanks for reading and watch for more.


Good blog. Looking forward to future installments. Definitely a worth topic. I also like to restore "junk" planes to nice looking users. I use Evapo-rust, electrolysis, and other paint on chem. methods. 
I've found that sometimes a totally rusted (but not deeply pitted) plane is easier to restore as you don't spend time getting the rest of the jappaning off .


----------



## rrj

Dcase said:


> *Intro and first step of cleaning & rust removal *
> 
> There are many good blogs, articles and web pages out there that give you all you need to know about restoring old hand planes. Most of what I learned I got from other peoples advice. Even though there are many resources out there for restoring planes I found myself learning new tips and tricks from each and every one of them. I decided to do a series of blogs on my methods for restoring planes. Most of what I discuss you may all ready know from reading other blogs and sites but hopefully I can offer some new tips and advice that you may be able to use.
> 
> *NOTE*: Of all the How to's that I have read I have learned that there are many different methods to doing this stuff. My blogs may not offer the best possible way to do it but rather just my method of doing things. If you have any of your own advice feel free to share it with me as I am always looking for new tips.
> 
> *Choosing which planes to restore* - Choosing what is worth restoring is all a personal preference. I have read sites and blogs where the writer says not to waist your time on certain planes. I say its your time and you can spend it how ever you want to spend it. The first plane I ever restored was a Shelton Jack Plane. When researching Shelton planes I found many comments saying they were junk and not to waist your time restoring them. I did it anyway and the Shelton IMO is just as well built and good as my Stanley Bailey planes. Had I not "waisted" my time on it then I would have missed out on a good plane and forked over more money to buy a Stanley. Don't get me wrong old Stanley planes are great to restore but there are other plane makes out there that have the same design as the Stanley Bailey planes that will work just as well as the Stanley's. Its not up to me or anyone else to tell you how to spend your free time so don't let anyone make you think something is not worth the time. Even if the plane is considered a junk plane, you will learn a lot restoring it and if your like me you will have a lot of fun and get a lot of enjoyment out of the whole process.
> 
> *Step 1- Cleaning and Rust Removal -* I personally look for the planes with the most rust. For one they are usually a lot cheaper on Ebay and I also like the challenge. I get such joy out of taking a hunk of rust and making it look new again. Don't be scared of Rust. I have never not been able to remove all rust from a tool.
> 
> The pictures that I post throughout this blog series will be from a number of different planes that I have restored.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I do is take the plane apart. You may need to spray some WD-40 on the screws if they wont turn. Make sure all parts are there and nothing is broke. If anything is missing or broke you may not want to restore. Many parts can be bought on Ebay so if its just a screw or two its not a big deal. I take the planes apart next to my kitchen sink. Once apart I wash each part off with simple green. I don't take a lot of time washing them, just enough to get any chunks sawdust and dirt off. Once cleaned the rusted parts are ready to be soaked over night in Evapo-Rust
> 
> *EVAPO-RUST* Every woodworker should have a jug of Evapo-Rust in their shop. This stuff is amazing. Most woodworkers deal with rust on their tools. Saw blades, router bits, nuts, bolts, saws, ext ext. Soak it in this stuff over night and the rust will be gone. I have cleaned rust off of all of my tools with this stuff. Even a badly rusted plane or tool will come out pretty much rust free after a nights soaking. You can find this at auto parts shops and Harbor Freight sells it as well. I have seen it in two sizes. The larger jug is 20 dollars and the smaller is 10 dollars. For 20 dollars you get a lot more. It is kind of expensive but I came up with some ways to help make it last.
> 
> 
> 
> For the smaller screws and parts I just pour a small amount of Evapo-Rust in an empty glass jar. You only need enough to cover the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the larger parts of the plane I came up with a good way to soak them without using up all of the solution. What I do is put the larger plane parts in a plastic bag. A zip lock freezer bag will work best but any bag will do. If its not a heavy duty bag you may want to double or even triple up the bags. The sharp parts can poke through the plastic. Once in the bag bring you can pour in the Evapo-Rust. You will want to do this over the sink or an empty container in case you have a hole and some leaks out. Using a bag will allow you to completely cover the object without using much solution. Tie off the bag and let it soak over night. After soaking for a night (don't panic if you let it soak longer) you can remove the plane from the bag. Carefully take the parts out of the bag and into the sink or a container to be washed. The left over Evapo-Rust in the bag is not to throw away. You can use this again, and again and again. If you have it in a zip lock bag you can just zip it and leave it for next time. Another thing you can do is put the bag in a funnel with a few coffee filters and poke some holes in the bag. Filter the solution into another container. The filters will clear out any larger chunks and you can seal the rest in another container to use again down the road. You can also filter the solution that is in the jar with the smaller parts.
> 
> After your parts are removed from the Evapo-Rust you will want to wash them right away. The parts will still have loose rust and dirt on them, you don't want that to harden as it will take more time to get it off. I use a green abrasive pad and scrub them with soap and water in the sink. After a good scrubbing you will all ready see a huge improvement in the looks.
> 
> Once you are done washing you will want to dry them right away! Dry them off as good as you can and then some. I have found if you let them sit a day or so you will start to see some surface rust form again.
> 
> If you have not used the Evapo-Rust before you will be amazed at the difference it makes. If you choose you can go head and rust proof your plane or tool with some wax or spray, tune it and start using it after the cleaning and rust removal. I like to do a complete restore though and really make it shine. My next blog entry will discuss the finer detail steps with many more pics. Thats all for now. Hope these tips help someone.
> 
> Thanks for reading and watch for more.


Nice info, thanks. I am in the process of restoring some planes that I got from my father-in-law and have been using Bio Shield Rust Free with a green scrub pad, works pretty good but lot of scrubbing. Curious about the Evapo-rust, does it remove the Japanning or paint when soaking overnight?


----------



## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *Intro and first step of cleaning & rust removal *
> 
> There are many good blogs, articles and web pages out there that give you all you need to know about restoring old hand planes. Most of what I learned I got from other peoples advice. Even though there are many resources out there for restoring planes I found myself learning new tips and tricks from each and every one of them. I decided to do a series of blogs on my methods for restoring planes. Most of what I discuss you may all ready know from reading other blogs and sites but hopefully I can offer some new tips and advice that you may be able to use.
> 
> *NOTE*: Of all the How to's that I have read I have learned that there are many different methods to doing this stuff. My blogs may not offer the best possible way to do it but rather just my method of doing things. If you have any of your own advice feel free to share it with me as I am always looking for new tips.
> 
> *Choosing which planes to restore* - Choosing what is worth restoring is all a personal preference. I have read sites and blogs where the writer says not to waist your time on certain planes. I say its your time and you can spend it how ever you want to spend it. The first plane I ever restored was a Shelton Jack Plane. When researching Shelton planes I found many comments saying they were junk and not to waist your time restoring them. I did it anyway and the Shelton IMO is just as well built and good as my Stanley Bailey planes. Had I not "waisted" my time on it then I would have missed out on a good plane and forked over more money to buy a Stanley. Don't get me wrong old Stanley planes are great to restore but there are other plane makes out there that have the same design as the Stanley Bailey planes that will work just as well as the Stanley's. Its not up to me or anyone else to tell you how to spend your free time so don't let anyone make you think something is not worth the time. Even if the plane is considered a junk plane, you will learn a lot restoring it and if your like me you will have a lot of fun and get a lot of enjoyment out of the whole process.
> 
> *Step 1- Cleaning and Rust Removal -* I personally look for the planes with the most rust. For one they are usually a lot cheaper on Ebay and I also like the challenge. I get such joy out of taking a hunk of rust and making it look new again. Don't be scared of Rust. I have never not been able to remove all rust from a tool.
> 
> The pictures that I post throughout this blog series will be from a number of different planes that I have restored.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I do is take the plane apart. You may need to spray some WD-40 on the screws if they wont turn. Make sure all parts are there and nothing is broke. If anything is missing or broke you may not want to restore. Many parts can be bought on Ebay so if its just a screw or two its not a big deal. I take the planes apart next to my kitchen sink. Once apart I wash each part off with simple green. I don't take a lot of time washing them, just enough to get any chunks sawdust and dirt off. Once cleaned the rusted parts are ready to be soaked over night in Evapo-Rust
> 
> *EVAPO-RUST* Every woodworker should have a jug of Evapo-Rust in their shop. This stuff is amazing. Most woodworkers deal with rust on their tools. Saw blades, router bits, nuts, bolts, saws, ext ext. Soak it in this stuff over night and the rust will be gone. I have cleaned rust off of all of my tools with this stuff. Even a badly rusted plane or tool will come out pretty much rust free after a nights soaking. You can find this at auto parts shops and Harbor Freight sells it as well. I have seen it in two sizes. The larger jug is 20 dollars and the smaller is 10 dollars. For 20 dollars you get a lot more. It is kind of expensive but I came up with some ways to help make it last.
> 
> 
> 
> For the smaller screws and parts I just pour a small amount of Evapo-Rust in an empty glass jar. You only need enough to cover the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the larger parts of the plane I came up with a good way to soak them without using up all of the solution. What I do is put the larger plane parts in a plastic bag. A zip lock freezer bag will work best but any bag will do. If its not a heavy duty bag you may want to double or even triple up the bags. The sharp parts can poke through the plastic. Once in the bag bring you can pour in the Evapo-Rust. You will want to do this over the sink or an empty container in case you have a hole and some leaks out. Using a bag will allow you to completely cover the object without using much solution. Tie off the bag and let it soak over night. After soaking for a night (don't panic if you let it soak longer) you can remove the plane from the bag. Carefully take the parts out of the bag and into the sink or a container to be washed. The left over Evapo-Rust in the bag is not to throw away. You can use this again, and again and again. If you have it in a zip lock bag you can just zip it and leave it for next time. Another thing you can do is put the bag in a funnel with a few coffee filters and poke some holes in the bag. Filter the solution into another container. The filters will clear out any larger chunks and you can seal the rest in another container to use again down the road. You can also filter the solution that is in the jar with the smaller parts.
> 
> After your parts are removed from the Evapo-Rust you will want to wash them right away. The parts will still have loose rust and dirt on them, you don't want that to harden as it will take more time to get it off. I use a green abrasive pad and scrub them with soap and water in the sink. After a good scrubbing you will all ready see a huge improvement in the looks.
> 
> Once you are done washing you will want to dry them right away! Dry them off as good as you can and then some. I have found if you let them sit a day or so you will start to see some surface rust form again.
> 
> If you have not used the Evapo-Rust before you will be amazed at the difference it makes. If you choose you can go head and rust proof your plane or tool with some wax or spray, tune it and start using it after the cleaning and rust removal. I like to do a complete restore though and really make it shine. My next blog entry will discuss the finer detail steps with many more pics. Thats all for now. Hope these tips help someone.
> 
> Thanks for reading and watch for more.


rrj- I have used the EvapoRust on a dozen planes or so and it has not taken any of the Japanning off. It wont take the dirt off either. It only removes the rust. It works great I strongly recommend it for rust removal.


----------



## jacob34

Dcase said:


> *Intro and first step of cleaning & rust removal *
> 
> There are many good blogs, articles and web pages out there that give you all you need to know about restoring old hand planes. Most of what I learned I got from other peoples advice. Even though there are many resources out there for restoring planes I found myself learning new tips and tricks from each and every one of them. I decided to do a series of blogs on my methods for restoring planes. Most of what I discuss you may all ready know from reading other blogs and sites but hopefully I can offer some new tips and advice that you may be able to use.
> 
> *NOTE*: Of all the How to's that I have read I have learned that there are many different methods to doing this stuff. My blogs may not offer the best possible way to do it but rather just my method of doing things. If you have any of your own advice feel free to share it with me as I am always looking for new tips.
> 
> *Choosing which planes to restore* - Choosing what is worth restoring is all a personal preference. I have read sites and blogs where the writer says not to waist your time on certain planes. I say its your time and you can spend it how ever you want to spend it. The first plane I ever restored was a Shelton Jack Plane. When researching Shelton planes I found many comments saying they were junk and not to waist your time restoring them. I did it anyway and the Shelton IMO is just as well built and good as my Stanley Bailey planes. Had I not "waisted" my time on it then I would have missed out on a good plane and forked over more money to buy a Stanley. Don't get me wrong old Stanley planes are great to restore but there are other plane makes out there that have the same design as the Stanley Bailey planes that will work just as well as the Stanley's. Its not up to me or anyone else to tell you how to spend your free time so don't let anyone make you think something is not worth the time. Even if the plane is considered a junk plane, you will learn a lot restoring it and if your like me you will have a lot of fun and get a lot of enjoyment out of the whole process.
> 
> *Step 1- Cleaning and Rust Removal -* I personally look for the planes with the most rust. For one they are usually a lot cheaper on Ebay and I also like the challenge. I get such joy out of taking a hunk of rust and making it look new again. Don't be scared of Rust. I have never not been able to remove all rust from a tool.
> 
> The pictures that I post throughout this blog series will be from a number of different planes that I have restored.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I do is take the plane apart. You may need to spray some WD-40 on the screws if they wont turn. Make sure all parts are there and nothing is broke. If anything is missing or broke you may not want to restore. Many parts can be bought on Ebay so if its just a screw or two its not a big deal. I take the planes apart next to my kitchen sink. Once apart I wash each part off with simple green. I don't take a lot of time washing them, just enough to get any chunks sawdust and dirt off. Once cleaned the rusted parts are ready to be soaked over night in Evapo-Rust
> 
> *EVAPO-RUST* Every woodworker should have a jug of Evapo-Rust in their shop. This stuff is amazing. Most woodworkers deal with rust on their tools. Saw blades, router bits, nuts, bolts, saws, ext ext. Soak it in this stuff over night and the rust will be gone. I have cleaned rust off of all of my tools with this stuff. Even a badly rusted plane or tool will come out pretty much rust free after a nights soaking. You can find this at auto parts shops and Harbor Freight sells it as well. I have seen it in two sizes. The larger jug is 20 dollars and the smaller is 10 dollars. For 20 dollars you get a lot more. It is kind of expensive but I came up with some ways to help make it last.
> 
> 
> 
> For the smaller screws and parts I just pour a small amount of Evapo-Rust in an empty glass jar. You only need enough to cover the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the larger parts of the plane I came up with a good way to soak them without using up all of the solution. What I do is put the larger plane parts in a plastic bag. A zip lock freezer bag will work best but any bag will do. If its not a heavy duty bag you may want to double or even triple up the bags. The sharp parts can poke through the plastic. Once in the bag bring you can pour in the Evapo-Rust. You will want to do this over the sink or an empty container in case you have a hole and some leaks out. Using a bag will allow you to completely cover the object without using much solution. Tie off the bag and let it soak over night. After soaking for a night (don't panic if you let it soak longer) you can remove the plane from the bag. Carefully take the parts out of the bag and into the sink or a container to be washed. The left over Evapo-Rust in the bag is not to throw away. You can use this again, and again and again. If you have it in a zip lock bag you can just zip it and leave it for next time. Another thing you can do is put the bag in a funnel with a few coffee filters and poke some holes in the bag. Filter the solution into another container. The filters will clear out any larger chunks and you can seal the rest in another container to use again down the road. You can also filter the solution that is in the jar with the smaller parts.
> 
> After your parts are removed from the Evapo-Rust you will want to wash them right away. The parts will still have loose rust and dirt on them, you don't want that to harden as it will take more time to get it off. I use a green abrasive pad and scrub them with soap and water in the sink. After a good scrubbing you will all ready see a huge improvement in the looks.
> 
> Once you are done washing you will want to dry them right away! Dry them off as good as you can and then some. I have found if you let them sit a day or so you will start to see some surface rust form again.
> 
> If you have not used the Evapo-Rust before you will be amazed at the difference it makes. If you choose you can go head and rust proof your plane or tool with some wax or spray, tune it and start using it after the cleaning and rust removal. I like to do a complete restore though and really make it shine. My next blog entry will discuss the finer detail steps with many more pics. Thats all for now. Hope these tips help someone.
> 
> Thanks for reading and watch for more.


I have gotten a few planes and wanted to restore them, i must admit it seemed kinda daunting mostly because I have never restored well anything. I got some answers I was looking for and am interested to read the rest of what you have blogged.


----------



## billy709

Dcase said:


> *Intro and first step of cleaning & rust removal *
> 
> There are many good blogs, articles and web pages out there that give you all you need to know about restoring old hand planes. Most of what I learned I got from other peoples advice. Even though there are many resources out there for restoring planes I found myself learning new tips and tricks from each and every one of them. I decided to do a series of blogs on my methods for restoring planes. Most of what I discuss you may all ready know from reading other blogs and sites but hopefully I can offer some new tips and advice that you may be able to use.
> 
> *NOTE*: Of all the How to's that I have read I have learned that there are many different methods to doing this stuff. My blogs may not offer the best possible way to do it but rather just my method of doing things. If you have any of your own advice feel free to share it with me as I am always looking for new tips.
> 
> *Choosing which planes to restore* - Choosing what is worth restoring is all a personal preference. I have read sites and blogs where the writer says not to waist your time on certain planes. I say its your time and you can spend it how ever you want to spend it. The first plane I ever restored was a Shelton Jack Plane. When researching Shelton planes I found many comments saying they were junk and not to waist your time restoring them. I did it anyway and the Shelton IMO is just as well built and good as my Stanley Bailey planes. Had I not "waisted" my time on it then I would have missed out on a good plane and forked over more money to buy a Stanley. Don't get me wrong old Stanley planes are great to restore but there are other plane makes out there that have the same design as the Stanley Bailey planes that will work just as well as the Stanley's. Its not up to me or anyone else to tell you how to spend your free time so don't let anyone make you think something is not worth the time. Even if the plane is considered a junk plane, you will learn a lot restoring it and if your like me you will have a lot of fun and get a lot of enjoyment out of the whole process.
> 
> *Step 1- Cleaning and Rust Removal -* I personally look for the planes with the most rust. For one they are usually a lot cheaper on Ebay and I also like the challenge. I get such joy out of taking a hunk of rust and making it look new again. Don't be scared of Rust. I have never not been able to remove all rust from a tool.
> 
> The pictures that I post throughout this blog series will be from a number of different planes that I have restored.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I do is take the plane apart. You may need to spray some WD-40 on the screws if they wont turn. Make sure all parts are there and nothing is broke. If anything is missing or broke you may not want to restore. Many parts can be bought on Ebay so if its just a screw or two its not a big deal. I take the planes apart next to my kitchen sink. Once apart I wash each part off with simple green. I don't take a lot of time washing them, just enough to get any chunks sawdust and dirt off. Once cleaned the rusted parts are ready to be soaked over night in Evapo-Rust
> 
> *EVAPO-RUST* Every woodworker should have a jug of Evapo-Rust in their shop. This stuff is amazing. Most woodworkers deal with rust on their tools. Saw blades, router bits, nuts, bolts, saws, ext ext. Soak it in this stuff over night and the rust will be gone. I have cleaned rust off of all of my tools with this stuff. Even a badly rusted plane or tool will come out pretty much rust free after a nights soaking. You can find this at auto parts shops and Harbor Freight sells it as well. I have seen it in two sizes. The larger jug is 20 dollars and the smaller is 10 dollars. For 20 dollars you get a lot more. It is kind of expensive but I came up with some ways to help make it last.
> 
> 
> 
> For the smaller screws and parts I just pour a small amount of Evapo-Rust in an empty glass jar. You only need enough to cover the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the larger parts of the plane I came up with a good way to soak them without using up all of the solution. What I do is put the larger plane parts in a plastic bag. A zip lock freezer bag will work best but any bag will do. If its not a heavy duty bag you may want to double or even triple up the bags. The sharp parts can poke through the plastic. Once in the bag bring you can pour in the Evapo-Rust. You will want to do this over the sink or an empty container in case you have a hole and some leaks out. Using a bag will allow you to completely cover the object without using much solution. Tie off the bag and let it soak over night. After soaking for a night (don't panic if you let it soak longer) you can remove the plane from the bag. Carefully take the parts out of the bag and into the sink or a container to be washed. The left over Evapo-Rust in the bag is not to throw away. You can use this again, and again and again. If you have it in a zip lock bag you can just zip it and leave it for next time. Another thing you can do is put the bag in a funnel with a few coffee filters and poke some holes in the bag. Filter the solution into another container. The filters will clear out any larger chunks and you can seal the rest in another container to use again down the road. You can also filter the solution that is in the jar with the smaller parts.
> 
> After your parts are removed from the Evapo-Rust you will want to wash them right away. The parts will still have loose rust and dirt on them, you don't want that to harden as it will take more time to get it off. I use a green abrasive pad and scrub them with soap and water in the sink. After a good scrubbing you will all ready see a huge improvement in the looks.
> 
> Once you are done washing you will want to dry them right away! Dry them off as good as you can and then some. I have found if you let them sit a day or so you will start to see some surface rust form again.
> 
> If you have not used the Evapo-Rust before you will be amazed at the difference it makes. If you choose you can go head and rust proof your plane or tool with some wax or spray, tune it and start using it after the cleaning and rust removal. I like to do a complete restore though and really make it shine. My next blog entry will discuss the finer detail steps with many more pics. Thats all for now. Hope these tips help someone.
> 
> Thanks for reading and watch for more.


I just picked up a gallon of Evapo-Rust on sale at Tractor Supply for $17.99. I have some plane parts soaking over night. Should know how well this stuff works within a few hours.


----------



## billy709

Dcase said:


> *Intro and first step of cleaning & rust removal *
> 
> There are many good blogs, articles and web pages out there that give you all you need to know about restoring old hand planes. Most of what I learned I got from other peoples advice. Even though there are many resources out there for restoring planes I found myself learning new tips and tricks from each and every one of them. I decided to do a series of blogs on my methods for restoring planes. Most of what I discuss you may all ready know from reading other blogs and sites but hopefully I can offer some new tips and advice that you may be able to use.
> 
> *NOTE*: Of all the How to's that I have read I have learned that there are many different methods to doing this stuff. My blogs may not offer the best possible way to do it but rather just my method of doing things. If you have any of your own advice feel free to share it with me as I am always looking for new tips.
> 
> *Choosing which planes to restore* - Choosing what is worth restoring is all a personal preference. I have read sites and blogs where the writer says not to waist your time on certain planes. I say its your time and you can spend it how ever you want to spend it. The first plane I ever restored was a Shelton Jack Plane. When researching Shelton planes I found many comments saying they were junk and not to waist your time restoring them. I did it anyway and the Shelton IMO is just as well built and good as my Stanley Bailey planes. Had I not "waisted" my time on it then I would have missed out on a good plane and forked over more money to buy a Stanley. Don't get me wrong old Stanley planes are great to restore but there are other plane makes out there that have the same design as the Stanley Bailey planes that will work just as well as the Stanley's. Its not up to me or anyone else to tell you how to spend your free time so don't let anyone make you think something is not worth the time. Even if the plane is considered a junk plane, you will learn a lot restoring it and if your like me you will have a lot of fun and get a lot of enjoyment out of the whole process.
> 
> *Step 1- Cleaning and Rust Removal -* I personally look for the planes with the most rust. For one they are usually a lot cheaper on Ebay and I also like the challenge. I get such joy out of taking a hunk of rust and making it look new again. Don't be scared of Rust. I have never not been able to remove all rust from a tool.
> 
> The pictures that I post throughout this blog series will be from a number of different planes that I have restored.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I do is take the plane apart. You may need to spray some WD-40 on the screws if they wont turn. Make sure all parts are there and nothing is broke. If anything is missing or broke you may not want to restore. Many parts can be bought on Ebay so if its just a screw or two its not a big deal. I take the planes apart next to my kitchen sink. Once apart I wash each part off with simple green. I don't take a lot of time washing them, just enough to get any chunks sawdust and dirt off. Once cleaned the rusted parts are ready to be soaked over night in Evapo-Rust
> 
> *EVAPO-RUST* Every woodworker should have a jug of Evapo-Rust in their shop. This stuff is amazing. Most woodworkers deal with rust on their tools. Saw blades, router bits, nuts, bolts, saws, ext ext. Soak it in this stuff over night and the rust will be gone. I have cleaned rust off of all of my tools with this stuff. Even a badly rusted plane or tool will come out pretty much rust free after a nights soaking. You can find this at auto parts shops and Harbor Freight sells it as well. I have seen it in two sizes. The larger jug is 20 dollars and the smaller is 10 dollars. For 20 dollars you get a lot more. It is kind of expensive but I came up with some ways to help make it last.
> 
> 
> 
> For the smaller screws and parts I just pour a small amount of Evapo-Rust in an empty glass jar. You only need enough to cover the parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the larger parts of the plane I came up with a good way to soak them without using up all of the solution. What I do is put the larger plane parts in a plastic bag. A zip lock freezer bag will work best but any bag will do. If its not a heavy duty bag you may want to double or even triple up the bags. The sharp parts can poke through the plastic. Once in the bag bring you can pour in the Evapo-Rust. You will want to do this over the sink or an empty container in case you have a hole and some leaks out. Using a bag will allow you to completely cover the object without using much solution. Tie off the bag and let it soak over night. After soaking for a night (don't panic if you let it soak longer) you can remove the plane from the bag. Carefully take the parts out of the bag and into the sink or a container to be washed. The left over Evapo-Rust in the bag is not to throw away. You can use this again, and again and again. If you have it in a zip lock bag you can just zip it and leave it for next time. Another thing you can do is put the bag in a funnel with a few coffee filters and poke some holes in the bag. Filter the solution into another container. The filters will clear out any larger chunks and you can seal the rest in another container to use again down the road. You can also filter the solution that is in the jar with the smaller parts.
> 
> After your parts are removed from the Evapo-Rust you will want to wash them right away. The parts will still have loose rust and dirt on them, you don't want that to harden as it will take more time to get it off. I use a green abrasive pad and scrub them with soap and water in the sink. After a good scrubbing you will all ready see a huge improvement in the looks.
> 
> Once you are done washing you will want to dry them right away! Dry them off as good as you can and then some. I have found if you let them sit a day or so you will start to see some surface rust form again.
> 
> If you have not used the Evapo-Rust before you will be amazed at the difference it makes. If you choose you can go head and rust proof your plane or tool with some wax or spray, tune it and start using it after the cleaning and rust removal. I like to do a complete restore though and really make it shine. My next blog entry will discuss the finer detail steps with many more pics. Thats all for now. Hope these tips help someone.
> 
> Thanks for reading and watch for more.


"rust proof your plane or tool with some wax or spray"

I have some Johnson's paste wax. Will this suffice for all surfaces or is it intended only for the sole?

What kind of spray? How 'bout wiping it down with an oily rag?


----------



## Dcase

*Cleaning Brass and making it shine!*

Many old planes and tools featured brass elements such as screw caps, adjustment wheels ext ext. In most cases you cant even tell that its brass because of how dirty it is. Most all of the old Stanley planes have brass nuts on the knob and tote and a brass adjustment wheel. There are other makes that featured brass nuts and wheels as well.

If there is one area of the cleaning/restoring process where you spend a little extra time and effort this is it. When polished and cleaned the brass elements stand out over everything else. Sure it has no effect on the use of the tool but it makes it look great when its sitting on the bench, wall or shelf.

In my opinion Brass is much easier to clean and polish then steel. I use nothing more then some brass polish, fine grit sand paper and some Q-tips. I personally do all of this work by hand. I like doing this kind of thing in my house at the kitchen table or even in the recliner as I am watching tv. As time consuming as this stuff can be its much more comfortable doing in the house while you are relaxed. If you want to speed it up a Dremmel tool with a buffing attachment works fantastic for this also.

In most cases I can get the brass cleaned without sanding it at all. If I do need to sand I just cut a small square of 2000 grit wet/dry paper and sand the brass with the polish on it. I use Q-tips to polish the small parts as they just work best for me. Apply the polish and clean with your pad or Q-tip. The trick to a great shine is to just keep repeating this process until your pad or q-tips no longer turn black when buffing.










I will show finished pictures of the planes at the end of the blog series. However here is a before and after of an old Disston hand saw that I restored. I used same process on the brass for the saw and it really stands out over everything else.





Thats all for todays blog. I am doing this blog in a series as it takes a bit of time to load all the pics and resize them. In my next blog of the series I will discuss re-painting and sanding/polishing the plane soles.

Thanks for reading!


----------



## Dennisgrosen

Dcase said:


> *Cleaning Brass and making it shine!*
> 
> Many old planes and tools featured brass elements such as screw caps, adjustment wheels ext ext. In most cases you cant even tell that its brass because of how dirty it is. Most all of the old Stanley planes have brass nuts on the knob and tote and a brass adjustment wheel. There are other makes that featured brass nuts and wheels as well.
> 
> If there is one area of the cleaning/restoring process where you spend a little extra time and effort this is it. When polished and cleaned the brass elements stand out over everything else. Sure it has no effect on the use of the tool but it makes it look great when its sitting on the bench, wall or shelf.
> 
> In my opinion Brass is much easier to clean and polish then steel. I use nothing more then some brass polish, fine grit sand paper and some Q-tips. I personally do all of this work by hand. I like doing this kind of thing in my house at the kitchen table or even in the recliner as I am watching tv. As time consuming as this stuff can be its much more comfortable doing in the house while you are relaxed. If you want to speed it up a Dremmel tool with a buffing attachment works fantastic for this also.
> 
> In most cases I can get the brass cleaned without sanding it at all. If I do need to sand I just cut a small square of 2000 grit wet/dry paper and sand the brass with the polish on it. I use Q-tips to polish the small parts as they just work best for me. Apply the polish and clean with your pad or Q-tip. The trick to a great shine is to just keep repeating this process until your pad or q-tips no longer turn black when buffing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will show finished pictures of the planes at the end of the blog series. However here is a before and after of an old Disston hand saw that I restored. I used same process on the brass for the saw and it really stands out over everything else.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats all for todays blog. I am doing this blog in a series as it takes a bit of time to load all the pics and resize them. In my next blog of the series I will discuss re-painting and sanding/polishing the plane soles.
> 
> Thanks for reading!


huu niiice looking saw there 
I know some wuold say overdone ,lost its value etc.etc. 
but when it comes to a user tool it doesn´t matter ,what matters is that it a joy to take
the tool from the shelf and have a good feeling when you use it 
and if thats meen you have to have a new shinny good looking tool …....then go for it 
I think we have seen some great shinny restorings the last year on L J

take care
Dennis


----------



## KentS

Dcase said:


> *Cleaning Brass and making it shine!*
> 
> Many old planes and tools featured brass elements such as screw caps, adjustment wheels ext ext. In most cases you cant even tell that its brass because of how dirty it is. Most all of the old Stanley planes have brass nuts on the knob and tote and a brass adjustment wheel. There are other makes that featured brass nuts and wheels as well.
> 
> If there is one area of the cleaning/restoring process where you spend a little extra time and effort this is it. When polished and cleaned the brass elements stand out over everything else. Sure it has no effect on the use of the tool but it makes it look great when its sitting on the bench, wall or shelf.
> 
> In my opinion Brass is much easier to clean and polish then steel. I use nothing more then some brass polish, fine grit sand paper and some Q-tips. I personally do all of this work by hand. I like doing this kind of thing in my house at the kitchen table or even in the recliner as I am watching tv. As time consuming as this stuff can be its much more comfortable doing in the house while you are relaxed. If you want to speed it up a Dremmel tool with a buffing attachment works fantastic for this also.
> 
> In most cases I can get the brass cleaned without sanding it at all. If I do need to sand I just cut a small square of 2000 grit wet/dry paper and sand the brass with the polish on it. I use Q-tips to polish the small parts as they just work best for me. Apply the polish and clean with your pad or Q-tip. The trick to a great shine is to just keep repeating this process until your pad or q-tips no longer turn black when buffing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will show finished pictures of the planes at the end of the blog series. However here is a before and after of an old Disston hand saw that I restored. I used same process on the brass for the saw and it really stands out over everything else.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats all for todays blog. I am doing this blog in a series as it takes a bit of time to load all the pics and resize them. In my next blog of the series I will discuss re-painting and sanding/polishing the plane soles.
> 
> Thanks for reading!


Good information

Thanks


----------



## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *Cleaning Brass and making it shine!*
> 
> Many old planes and tools featured brass elements such as screw caps, adjustment wheels ext ext. In most cases you cant even tell that its brass because of how dirty it is. Most all of the old Stanley planes have brass nuts on the knob and tote and a brass adjustment wheel. There are other makes that featured brass nuts and wheels as well.
> 
> If there is one area of the cleaning/restoring process where you spend a little extra time and effort this is it. When polished and cleaned the brass elements stand out over everything else. Sure it has no effect on the use of the tool but it makes it look great when its sitting on the bench, wall or shelf.
> 
> In my opinion Brass is much easier to clean and polish then steel. I use nothing more then some brass polish, fine grit sand paper and some Q-tips. I personally do all of this work by hand. I like doing this kind of thing in my house at the kitchen table or even in the recliner as I am watching tv. As time consuming as this stuff can be its much more comfortable doing in the house while you are relaxed. If you want to speed it up a Dremmel tool with a buffing attachment works fantastic for this also.
> 
> In most cases I can get the brass cleaned without sanding it at all. If I do need to sand I just cut a small square of 2000 grit wet/dry paper and sand the brass with the polish on it. I use Q-tips to polish the small parts as they just work best for me. Apply the polish and clean with your pad or Q-tip. The trick to a great shine is to just keep repeating this process until your pad or q-tips no longer turn black when buffing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will show finished pictures of the planes at the end of the blog series. However here is a before and after of an old Disston hand saw that I restored. I used same process on the brass for the saw and it really stands out over everything else.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats all for todays blog. I am doing this blog in a series as it takes a bit of time to load all the pics and resize them. In my next blog of the series I will discuss re-painting and sanding/polishing the plane soles.
> 
> Thanks for reading!


Dennis- you are correct… Restoring tools is a hobby on its own. I find it challenging and very rewarding to go over board and make a hunk of rust look new. Some of them I use and some I may never use. I just enjoy the work of doing it.


----------



## A10GAC

Dcase said:


> *Cleaning Brass and making it shine!*
> 
> Many old planes and tools featured brass elements such as screw caps, adjustment wheels ext ext. In most cases you cant even tell that its brass because of how dirty it is. Most all of the old Stanley planes have brass nuts on the knob and tote and a brass adjustment wheel. There are other makes that featured brass nuts and wheels as well.
> 
> If there is one area of the cleaning/restoring process where you spend a little extra time and effort this is it. When polished and cleaned the brass elements stand out over everything else. Sure it has no effect on the use of the tool but it makes it look great when its sitting on the bench, wall or shelf.
> 
> In my opinion Brass is much easier to clean and polish then steel. I use nothing more then some brass polish, fine grit sand paper and some Q-tips. I personally do all of this work by hand. I like doing this kind of thing in my house at the kitchen table or even in the recliner as I am watching tv. As time consuming as this stuff can be its much more comfortable doing in the house while you are relaxed. If you want to speed it up a Dremmel tool with a buffing attachment works fantastic for this also.
> 
> In most cases I can get the brass cleaned without sanding it at all. If I do need to sand I just cut a small square of 2000 grit wet/dry paper and sand the brass with the polish on it. I use Q-tips to polish the small parts as they just work best for me. Apply the polish and clean with your pad or Q-tip. The trick to a great shine is to just keep repeating this process until your pad or q-tips no longer turn black when buffing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will show finished pictures of the planes at the end of the blog series. However here is a before and after of an old Disston hand saw that I restored. I used same process on the brass for the saw and it really stands out over everything else.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats all for todays blog. I am doing this blog in a series as it takes a bit of time to load all the pics and resize them. In my next blog of the series I will discuss re-painting and sanding/polishing the plane soles.
> 
> Thanks for reading!


Not to take away from the planes, but…did you put a new blade/backstrap on that saw? If not, how did you sharpen & recut the teeth on the blade? It almost looks like you changed it from a rather coarse cut to a fine cut.

The saw looks great BTW, looking forward to the finished plane.


----------



## againstthegrain

Dcase said:


> *Cleaning Brass and making it shine!*
> 
> Many old planes and tools featured brass elements such as screw caps, adjustment wheels ext ext. In most cases you cant even tell that its brass because of how dirty it is. Most all of the old Stanley planes have brass nuts on the knob and tote and a brass adjustment wheel. There are other makes that featured brass nuts and wheels as well.
> 
> If there is one area of the cleaning/restoring process where you spend a little extra time and effort this is it. When polished and cleaned the brass elements stand out over everything else. Sure it has no effect on the use of the tool but it makes it look great when its sitting on the bench, wall or shelf.
> 
> In my opinion Brass is much easier to clean and polish then steel. I use nothing more then some brass polish, fine grit sand paper and some Q-tips. I personally do all of this work by hand. I like doing this kind of thing in my house at the kitchen table or even in the recliner as I am watching tv. As time consuming as this stuff can be its much more comfortable doing in the house while you are relaxed. If you want to speed it up a Dremmel tool with a buffing attachment works fantastic for this also.
> 
> In most cases I can get the brass cleaned without sanding it at all. If I do need to sand I just cut a small square of 2000 grit wet/dry paper and sand the brass with the polish on it. I use Q-tips to polish the small parts as they just work best for me. Apply the polish and clean with your pad or Q-tip. The trick to a great shine is to just keep repeating this process until your pad or q-tips no longer turn black when buffing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will show finished pictures of the planes at the end of the blog series. However here is a before and after of an old Disston hand saw that I restored. I used same process on the brass for the saw and it really stands out over everything else.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats all for todays blog. I am doing this blog in a series as it takes a bit of time to load all the pics and resize them. In my next blog of the series I will discuss re-painting and sanding/polishing the plane soles.
> 
> Thanks for reading!


I'm loving this. Keep it up please!!!


----------



## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *Cleaning Brass and making it shine!*
> 
> Many old planes and tools featured brass elements such as screw caps, adjustment wheels ext ext. In most cases you cant even tell that its brass because of how dirty it is. Most all of the old Stanley planes have brass nuts on the knob and tote and a brass adjustment wheel. There are other makes that featured brass nuts and wheels as well.
> 
> If there is one area of the cleaning/restoring process where you spend a little extra time and effort this is it. When polished and cleaned the brass elements stand out over everything else. Sure it has no effect on the use of the tool but it makes it look great when its sitting on the bench, wall or shelf.
> 
> In my opinion Brass is much easier to clean and polish then steel. I use nothing more then some brass polish, fine grit sand paper and some Q-tips. I personally do all of this work by hand. I like doing this kind of thing in my house at the kitchen table or even in the recliner as I am watching tv. As time consuming as this stuff can be its much more comfortable doing in the house while you are relaxed. If you want to speed it up a Dremmel tool with a buffing attachment works fantastic for this also.
> 
> In most cases I can get the brass cleaned without sanding it at all. If I do need to sand I just cut a small square of 2000 grit wet/dry paper and sand the brass with the polish on it. I use Q-tips to polish the small parts as they just work best for me. Apply the polish and clean with your pad or Q-tip. The trick to a great shine is to just keep repeating this process until your pad or q-tips no longer turn black when buffing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will show finished pictures of the planes at the end of the blog series. However here is a before and after of an old Disston hand saw that I restored. I used same process on the brass for the saw and it really stands out over everything else.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats all for todays blog. I am doing this blog in a series as it takes a bit of time to load all the pics and resize them. In my next blog of the series I will discuss re-painting and sanding/polishing the plane soles.
> 
> Thanks for reading!


A10GAC- I must not have noticed but it looks like I posted the wrong before picture of the saw. I restored a few old Disston saws that I had and I guess I didn't look close enough before putting the pic up. I did not sharpen it at all. I plan to have them sharpened soon though. I don't trust myself to do it myself. Here is a picture of the saw before, its the one on the top not the bottom.


----------



## A10GAC

Dcase said:


> *Cleaning Brass and making it shine!*
> 
> Many old planes and tools featured brass elements such as screw caps, adjustment wheels ext ext. In most cases you cant even tell that its brass because of how dirty it is. Most all of the old Stanley planes have brass nuts on the knob and tote and a brass adjustment wheel. There are other makes that featured brass nuts and wheels as well.
> 
> If there is one area of the cleaning/restoring process where you spend a little extra time and effort this is it. When polished and cleaned the brass elements stand out over everything else. Sure it has no effect on the use of the tool but it makes it look great when its sitting on the bench, wall or shelf.
> 
> In my opinion Brass is much easier to clean and polish then steel. I use nothing more then some brass polish, fine grit sand paper and some Q-tips. I personally do all of this work by hand. I like doing this kind of thing in my house at the kitchen table or even in the recliner as I am watching tv. As time consuming as this stuff can be its much more comfortable doing in the house while you are relaxed. If you want to speed it up a Dremmel tool with a buffing attachment works fantastic for this also.
> 
> In most cases I can get the brass cleaned without sanding it at all. If I do need to sand I just cut a small square of 2000 grit wet/dry paper and sand the brass with the polish on it. I use Q-tips to polish the small parts as they just work best for me. Apply the polish and clean with your pad or Q-tip. The trick to a great shine is to just keep repeating this process until your pad or q-tips no longer turn black when buffing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will show finished pictures of the planes at the end of the blog series. However here is a before and after of an old Disston hand saw that I restored. I used same process on the brass for the saw and it really stands out over everything else.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats all for todays blog. I am doing this blog in a series as it takes a bit of time to load all the pics and resize them. In my next blog of the series I will discuss re-painting and sanding/polishing the plane soles.
> 
> Thanks for reading!


Stiil, nice work, I love to see old tools put back into use. The backstrap and tooth pattern had me a bit confused; it cleaned up very well.


----------



## bigike

Dcase said:


> *Cleaning Brass and making it shine!*
> 
> Many old planes and tools featured brass elements such as screw caps, adjustment wheels ext ext. In most cases you cant even tell that its brass because of how dirty it is. Most all of the old Stanley planes have brass nuts on the knob and tote and a brass adjustment wheel. There are other makes that featured brass nuts and wheels as well.
> 
> If there is one area of the cleaning/restoring process where you spend a little extra time and effort this is it. When polished and cleaned the brass elements stand out over everything else. Sure it has no effect on the use of the tool but it makes it look great when its sitting on the bench, wall or shelf.
> 
> In my opinion Brass is much easier to clean and polish then steel. I use nothing more then some brass polish, fine grit sand paper and some Q-tips. I personally do all of this work by hand. I like doing this kind of thing in my house at the kitchen table or even in the recliner as I am watching tv. As time consuming as this stuff can be its much more comfortable doing in the house while you are relaxed. If you want to speed it up a Dremmel tool with a buffing attachment works fantastic for this also.
> 
> In most cases I can get the brass cleaned without sanding it at all. If I do need to sand I just cut a small square of 2000 grit wet/dry paper and sand the brass with the polish on it. I use Q-tips to polish the small parts as they just work best for me. Apply the polish and clean with your pad or Q-tip. The trick to a great shine is to just keep repeating this process until your pad or q-tips no longer turn black when buffing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will show finished pictures of the planes at the end of the blog series. However here is a before and after of an old Disston hand saw that I restored. I used same process on the brass for the saw and it really stands out over everything else.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats all for todays blog. I am doing this blog in a series as it takes a bit of time to load all the pics and resize them. In my next blog of the series I will discuss re-painting and sanding/polishing the plane soles.
> 
> Thanks for reading!


wow that brass polish works, cool.


----------



## Dez

Dcase said:


> *Cleaning Brass and making it shine!*
> 
> Many old planes and tools featured brass elements such as screw caps, adjustment wheels ext ext. In most cases you cant even tell that its brass because of how dirty it is. Most all of the old Stanley planes have brass nuts on the knob and tote and a brass adjustment wheel. There are other makes that featured brass nuts and wheels as well.
> 
> If there is one area of the cleaning/restoring process where you spend a little extra time and effort this is it. When polished and cleaned the brass elements stand out over everything else. Sure it has no effect on the use of the tool but it makes it look great when its sitting on the bench, wall or shelf.
> 
> In my opinion Brass is much easier to clean and polish then steel. I use nothing more then some brass polish, fine grit sand paper and some Q-tips. I personally do all of this work by hand. I like doing this kind of thing in my house at the kitchen table or even in the recliner as I am watching tv. As time consuming as this stuff can be its much more comfortable doing in the house while you are relaxed. If you want to speed it up a Dremmel tool with a buffing attachment works fantastic for this also.
> 
> In most cases I can get the brass cleaned without sanding it at all. If I do need to sand I just cut a small square of 2000 grit wet/dry paper and sand the brass with the polish on it. I use Q-tips to polish the small parts as they just work best for me. Apply the polish and clean with your pad or Q-tip. The trick to a great shine is to just keep repeating this process until your pad or q-tips no longer turn black when buffing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will show finished pictures of the planes at the end of the blog series. However here is a before and after of an old Disston hand saw that I restored. I used same process on the brass for the saw and it really stands out over everything else.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats all for todays blog. I am doing this blog in a series as it takes a bit of time to load all the pics and resize them. In my next blog of the series I will discuss re-painting and sanding/polishing the plane soles.
> 
> Thanks for reading!


Nice restoration work!


----------



## Dennisgrosen

Dcase said:


> *Cleaning Brass and making it shine!*
> 
> Many old planes and tools featured brass elements such as screw caps, adjustment wheels ext ext. In most cases you cant even tell that its brass because of how dirty it is. Most all of the old Stanley planes have brass nuts on the knob and tote and a brass adjustment wheel. There are other makes that featured brass nuts and wheels as well.
> 
> If there is one area of the cleaning/restoring process where you spend a little extra time and effort this is it. When polished and cleaned the brass elements stand out over everything else. Sure it has no effect on the use of the tool but it makes it look great when its sitting on the bench, wall or shelf.
> 
> In my opinion Brass is much easier to clean and polish then steel. I use nothing more then some brass polish, fine grit sand paper and some Q-tips. I personally do all of this work by hand. I like doing this kind of thing in my house at the kitchen table or even in the recliner as I am watching tv. As time consuming as this stuff can be its much more comfortable doing in the house while you are relaxed. If you want to speed it up a Dremmel tool with a buffing attachment works fantastic for this also.
> 
> In most cases I can get the brass cleaned without sanding it at all. If I do need to sand I just cut a small square of 2000 grit wet/dry paper and sand the brass with the polish on it. I use Q-tips to polish the small parts as they just work best for me. Apply the polish and clean with your pad or Q-tip. The trick to a great shine is to just keep repeating this process until your pad or q-tips no longer turn black when buffing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will show finished pictures of the planes at the end of the blog series. However here is a before and after of an old Disston hand saw that I restored. I used same process on the brass for the saw and it really stands out over everything else.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats all for todays blog. I am doing this blog in a series as it takes a bit of time to load all the pics and resize them. In my next blog of the series I will discuss re-painting and sanding/polishing the plane soles.
> 
> Thanks for reading!


Dan instead of using the expencive Brass polish and all that albow grease 
then let the chemi rule and try some of theese recipies

1.
1 teaspoon citrus acid 
1 spoon dishwash soape liquide
1 Liter boiling water 
put the brass in 2-4minuts and you shuold have clean brass
pure some clean water over the items after cleaning to stop the acid
2.
cover the item with a layer of yughurt , wrap them in some plastic kitchenfilm 2-3 hours
and wash them normaly and you shuold have clean brass

3.
cover the item with Ketchup ½ - 1 hour 
and wash them normaly and you shuold have clean brass

one question ?

what do you use to polish that saw with after the evapro-rustremover

take care
Dennis


----------



## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *Cleaning Brass and making it shine!*
> 
> Many old planes and tools featured brass elements such as screw caps, adjustment wheels ext ext. In most cases you cant even tell that its brass because of how dirty it is. Most all of the old Stanley planes have brass nuts on the knob and tote and a brass adjustment wheel. There are other makes that featured brass nuts and wheels as well.
> 
> If there is one area of the cleaning/restoring process where you spend a little extra time and effort this is it. When polished and cleaned the brass elements stand out over everything else. Sure it has no effect on the use of the tool but it makes it look great when its sitting on the bench, wall or shelf.
> 
> In my opinion Brass is much easier to clean and polish then steel. I use nothing more then some brass polish, fine grit sand paper and some Q-tips. I personally do all of this work by hand. I like doing this kind of thing in my house at the kitchen table or even in the recliner as I am watching tv. As time consuming as this stuff can be its much more comfortable doing in the house while you are relaxed. If you want to speed it up a Dremmel tool with a buffing attachment works fantastic for this also.
> 
> In most cases I can get the brass cleaned without sanding it at all. If I do need to sand I just cut a small square of 2000 grit wet/dry paper and sand the brass with the polish on it. I use Q-tips to polish the small parts as they just work best for me. Apply the polish and clean with your pad or Q-tip. The trick to a great shine is to just keep repeating this process until your pad or q-tips no longer turn black when buffing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will show finished pictures of the planes at the end of the blog series. However here is a before and after of an old Disston hand saw that I restored. I used same process on the brass for the saw and it really stands out over everything else.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats all for todays blog. I am doing this blog in a series as it takes a bit of time to load all the pics and resize them. In my next blog of the series I will discuss re-painting and sanding/polishing the plane soles.
> 
> Thanks for reading!


Dennis- Thanks for the recipes I will try them. I am interested to see how they work.

I polished the saw with a metal polish that I got in the automotive dept of a store. I cant remember the name right now but it was just one of the many metal/steel polishes that they had on the shelf. I got one in the mid price range. I just rubbed it in and then buffed it by hand with a clean buff pad. I repeated that process a number of times until I had a good shine.


----------



## Dennisgrosen

Dcase said:


> *Cleaning Brass and making it shine!*
> 
> Many old planes and tools featured brass elements such as screw caps, adjustment wheels ext ext. In most cases you cant even tell that its brass because of how dirty it is. Most all of the old Stanley planes have brass nuts on the knob and tote and a brass adjustment wheel. There are other makes that featured brass nuts and wheels as well.
> 
> If there is one area of the cleaning/restoring process where you spend a little extra time and effort this is it. When polished and cleaned the brass elements stand out over everything else. Sure it has no effect on the use of the tool but it makes it look great when its sitting on the bench, wall or shelf.
> 
> In my opinion Brass is much easier to clean and polish then steel. I use nothing more then some brass polish, fine grit sand paper and some Q-tips. I personally do all of this work by hand. I like doing this kind of thing in my house at the kitchen table or even in the recliner as I am watching tv. As time consuming as this stuff can be its much more comfortable doing in the house while you are relaxed. If you want to speed it up a Dremmel tool with a buffing attachment works fantastic for this also.
> 
> In most cases I can get the brass cleaned without sanding it at all. If I do need to sand I just cut a small square of 2000 grit wet/dry paper and sand the brass with the polish on it. I use Q-tips to polish the small parts as they just work best for me. Apply the polish and clean with your pad or Q-tip. The trick to a great shine is to just keep repeating this process until your pad or q-tips no longer turn black when buffing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will show finished pictures of the planes at the end of the blog series. However here is a before and after of an old Disston hand saw that I restored. I used same process on the brass for the saw and it really stands out over everything else.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats all for todays blog. I am doing this blog in a series as it takes a bit of time to load all the pics and resize them. In my next blog of the series I will discuss re-painting and sanding/polishing the plane soles.
> 
> Thanks for reading!


thank´s Dan I will look in those kind of thores here in Denmark and see whats possiple to get :-O

the recipies I havn´t tryed them myself yet but have heard about them many many times over
the years from housewife´s ….LOL
except for the citrus acid threatment that was from this site , its a great site for galoot´s …lol

http://www.wkfinetools.com/contrib/jThompson/howTo/rust_CitricAcid/rust_CitricAcid1.asp

take care
Dennis


----------



## Dennisgrosen

Dcase said:


> *Cleaning Brass and making it shine!*
> 
> Many old planes and tools featured brass elements such as screw caps, adjustment wheels ext ext. In most cases you cant even tell that its brass because of how dirty it is. Most all of the old Stanley planes have brass nuts on the knob and tote and a brass adjustment wheel. There are other makes that featured brass nuts and wheels as well.
> 
> If there is one area of the cleaning/restoring process where you spend a little extra time and effort this is it. When polished and cleaned the brass elements stand out over everything else. Sure it has no effect on the use of the tool but it makes it look great when its sitting on the bench, wall or shelf.
> 
> In my opinion Brass is much easier to clean and polish then steel. I use nothing more then some brass polish, fine grit sand paper and some Q-tips. I personally do all of this work by hand. I like doing this kind of thing in my house at the kitchen table or even in the recliner as I am watching tv. As time consuming as this stuff can be its much more comfortable doing in the house while you are relaxed. If you want to speed it up a Dremmel tool with a buffing attachment works fantastic for this also.
> 
> In most cases I can get the brass cleaned without sanding it at all. If I do need to sand I just cut a small square of 2000 grit wet/dry paper and sand the brass with the polish on it. I use Q-tips to polish the small parts as they just work best for me. Apply the polish and clean with your pad or Q-tip. The trick to a great shine is to just keep repeating this process until your pad or q-tips no longer turn black when buffing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will show finished pictures of the planes at the end of the blog series. However here is a before and after of an old Disston hand saw that I restored. I used same process on the brass for the saw and it really stands out over everything else.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats all for todays blog. I am doing this blog in a series as it takes a bit of time to load all the pics and resize them. In my next blog of the series I will discuss re-painting and sanding/polishing the plane soles.
> 
> Thanks for reading!


sorry Dan the link I gave you was for rust on iron and that reciepee is a little different 
but the recipie you got first with citric acid works for brass

Dennis


----------



## Beginningwoodworker

Dcase said:


> *Cleaning Brass and making it shine!*
> 
> Many old planes and tools featured brass elements such as screw caps, adjustment wheels ext ext. In most cases you cant even tell that its brass because of how dirty it is. Most all of the old Stanley planes have brass nuts on the knob and tote and a brass adjustment wheel. There are other makes that featured brass nuts and wheels as well.
> 
> If there is one area of the cleaning/restoring process where you spend a little extra time and effort this is it. When polished and cleaned the brass elements stand out over everything else. Sure it has no effect on the use of the tool but it makes it look great when its sitting on the bench, wall or shelf.
> 
> In my opinion Brass is much easier to clean and polish then steel. I use nothing more then some brass polish, fine grit sand paper and some Q-tips. I personally do all of this work by hand. I like doing this kind of thing in my house at the kitchen table or even in the recliner as I am watching tv. As time consuming as this stuff can be its much more comfortable doing in the house while you are relaxed. If you want to speed it up a Dremmel tool with a buffing attachment works fantastic for this also.
> 
> In most cases I can get the brass cleaned without sanding it at all. If I do need to sand I just cut a small square of 2000 grit wet/dry paper and sand the brass with the polish on it. I use Q-tips to polish the small parts as they just work best for me. Apply the polish and clean with your pad or Q-tip. The trick to a great shine is to just keep repeating this process until your pad or q-tips no longer turn black when buffing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will show finished pictures of the planes at the end of the blog series. However here is a before and after of an old Disston hand saw that I restored. I used same process on the brass for the saw and it really stands out over everything else.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats all for todays blog. I am doing this blog in a series as it takes a bit of time to load all the pics and resize them. In my next blog of the series I will discuss re-painting and sanding/polishing the plane soles.
> 
> Thanks for reading!


Nice looking saw.


----------



## Smile_n_Nod

Dcase said:


> *Cleaning Brass and making it shine!*
> 
> Many old planes and tools featured brass elements such as screw caps, adjustment wheels ext ext. In most cases you cant even tell that its brass because of how dirty it is. Most all of the old Stanley planes have brass nuts on the knob and tote and a brass adjustment wheel. There are other makes that featured brass nuts and wheels as well.
> 
> If there is one area of the cleaning/restoring process where you spend a little extra time and effort this is it. When polished and cleaned the brass elements stand out over everything else. Sure it has no effect on the use of the tool but it makes it look great when its sitting on the bench, wall or shelf.
> 
> In my opinion Brass is much easier to clean and polish then steel. I use nothing more then some brass polish, fine grit sand paper and some Q-tips. I personally do all of this work by hand. I like doing this kind of thing in my house at the kitchen table or even in the recliner as I am watching tv. As time consuming as this stuff can be its much more comfortable doing in the house while you are relaxed. If you want to speed it up a Dremmel tool with a buffing attachment works fantastic for this also.
> 
> In most cases I can get the brass cleaned without sanding it at all. If I do need to sand I just cut a small square of 2000 grit wet/dry paper and sand the brass with the polish on it. I use Q-tips to polish the small parts as they just work best for me. Apply the polish and clean with your pad or Q-tip. The trick to a great shine is to just keep repeating this process until your pad or q-tips no longer turn black when buffing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will show finished pictures of the planes at the end of the blog series. However here is a before and after of an old Disston hand saw that I restored. I used same process on the brass for the saw and it really stands out over everything else.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats all for todays blog. I am doing this blog in a series as it takes a bit of time to load all the pics and resize them. In my next blog of the series I will discuss re-painting and sanding/polishing the plane soles.
> 
> Thanks for reading!


Cotton string works well to polish the two grooves around the rim of the brass adjusting nut. Rub some polish in the grooves with a Q-tip, loop the string around the rim, and rotate the nut while keeping the string tight.


----------



## NBeener

Dcase said:


> *Cleaning Brass and making it shine!*
> 
> Many old planes and tools featured brass elements such as screw caps, adjustment wheels ext ext. In most cases you cant even tell that its brass because of how dirty it is. Most all of the old Stanley planes have brass nuts on the knob and tote and a brass adjustment wheel. There are other makes that featured brass nuts and wheels as well.
> 
> If there is one area of the cleaning/restoring process where you spend a little extra time and effort this is it. When polished and cleaned the brass elements stand out over everything else. Sure it has no effect on the use of the tool but it makes it look great when its sitting on the bench, wall or shelf.
> 
> In my opinion Brass is much easier to clean and polish then steel. I use nothing more then some brass polish, fine grit sand paper and some Q-tips. I personally do all of this work by hand. I like doing this kind of thing in my house at the kitchen table or even in the recliner as I am watching tv. As time consuming as this stuff can be its much more comfortable doing in the house while you are relaxed. If you want to speed it up a Dremmel tool with a buffing attachment works fantastic for this also.
> 
> In most cases I can get the brass cleaned without sanding it at all. If I do need to sand I just cut a small square of 2000 grit wet/dry paper and sand the brass with the polish on it. I use Q-tips to polish the small parts as they just work best for me. Apply the polish and clean with your pad or Q-tip. The trick to a great shine is to just keep repeating this process until your pad or q-tips no longer turn black when buffing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will show finished pictures of the planes at the end of the blog series. However here is a before and after of an old Disston hand saw that I restored. I used same process on the brass for the saw and it really stands out over everything else.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats all for todays blog. I am doing this blog in a series as it takes a bit of time to load all the pics and resize them. In my next blog of the series I will discuss re-painting and sanding/polishing the plane soles.
> 
> Thanks for reading!


Wow.

Great job !

I'm a big fan of Nevr-Dull Magic Wadding Polish, too.

Whatever it takes to breathe new life into the old tools !!


----------



## swirt

Dcase said:


> *Cleaning Brass and making it shine!*
> 
> Many old planes and tools featured brass elements such as screw caps, adjustment wheels ext ext. In most cases you cant even tell that its brass because of how dirty it is. Most all of the old Stanley planes have brass nuts on the knob and tote and a brass adjustment wheel. There are other makes that featured brass nuts and wheels as well.
> 
> If there is one area of the cleaning/restoring process where you spend a little extra time and effort this is it. When polished and cleaned the brass elements stand out over everything else. Sure it has no effect on the use of the tool but it makes it look great when its sitting on the bench, wall or shelf.
> 
> In my opinion Brass is much easier to clean and polish then steel. I use nothing more then some brass polish, fine grit sand paper and some Q-tips. I personally do all of this work by hand. I like doing this kind of thing in my house at the kitchen table or even in the recliner as I am watching tv. As time consuming as this stuff can be its much more comfortable doing in the house while you are relaxed. If you want to speed it up a Dremmel tool with a buffing attachment works fantastic for this also.
> 
> In most cases I can get the brass cleaned without sanding it at all. If I do need to sand I just cut a small square of 2000 grit wet/dry paper and sand the brass with the polish on it. I use Q-tips to polish the small parts as they just work best for me. Apply the polish and clean with your pad or Q-tip. The trick to a great shine is to just keep repeating this process until your pad or q-tips no longer turn black when buffing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will show finished pictures of the planes at the end of the blog series. However here is a before and after of an old Disston hand saw that I restored. I used same process on the brass for the saw and it really stands out over everything else.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats all for todays blog. I am doing this blog in a series as it takes a bit of time to load all the pics and resize them. In my next blog of the series I will discuss re-painting and sanding/polishing the plane soles.
> 
> Thanks for reading!


FUnny how we all latch on to favorites. I like Bar Keepers Friend.

Good post Dan.


----------



## Chelios

Dcase said:


> *Cleaning Brass and making it shine!*
> 
> Many old planes and tools featured brass elements such as screw caps, adjustment wheels ext ext. In most cases you cant even tell that its brass because of how dirty it is. Most all of the old Stanley planes have brass nuts on the knob and tote and a brass adjustment wheel. There are other makes that featured brass nuts and wheels as well.
> 
> If there is one area of the cleaning/restoring process where you spend a little extra time and effort this is it. When polished and cleaned the brass elements stand out over everything else. Sure it has no effect on the use of the tool but it makes it look great when its sitting on the bench, wall or shelf.
> 
> In my opinion Brass is much easier to clean and polish then steel. I use nothing more then some brass polish, fine grit sand paper and some Q-tips. I personally do all of this work by hand. I like doing this kind of thing in my house at the kitchen table or even in the recliner as I am watching tv. As time consuming as this stuff can be its much more comfortable doing in the house while you are relaxed. If you want to speed it up a Dremmel tool with a buffing attachment works fantastic for this also.
> 
> In most cases I can get the brass cleaned without sanding it at all. If I do need to sand I just cut a small square of 2000 grit wet/dry paper and sand the brass with the polish on it. I use Q-tips to polish the small parts as they just work best for me. Apply the polish and clean with your pad or Q-tip. The trick to a great shine is to just keep repeating this process until your pad or q-tips no longer turn black when buffing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will show finished pictures of the planes at the end of the blog series. However here is a before and after of an old Disston hand saw that I restored. I used same process on the brass for the saw and it really stands out over everything else.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats all for todays blog. I am doing this blog in a series as it takes a bit of time to load all the pics and resize them. In my next blog of the series I will discuss re-painting and sanding/polishing the plane soles.
> 
> Thanks for reading!


I wish I could have good enough luck one day to run across some of these wonderful finds. It seems everytime I go treasure hunting there are only kinked saws and never a Disston…only Lakeside. Are these any good?


----------



## Donnerboy

Dcase said:


> *Cleaning Brass and making it shine!*
> 
> Many old planes and tools featured brass elements such as screw caps, adjustment wheels ext ext. In most cases you cant even tell that its brass because of how dirty it is. Most all of the old Stanley planes have brass nuts on the knob and tote and a brass adjustment wheel. There are other makes that featured brass nuts and wheels as well.
> 
> If there is one area of the cleaning/restoring process where you spend a little extra time and effort this is it. When polished and cleaned the brass elements stand out over everything else. Sure it has no effect on the use of the tool but it makes it look great when its sitting on the bench, wall or shelf.
> 
> In my opinion Brass is much easier to clean and polish then steel. I use nothing more then some brass polish, fine grit sand paper and some Q-tips. I personally do all of this work by hand. I like doing this kind of thing in my house at the kitchen table or even in the recliner as I am watching tv. As time consuming as this stuff can be its much more comfortable doing in the house while you are relaxed. If you want to speed it up a Dremmel tool with a buffing attachment works fantastic for this also.
> 
> In most cases I can get the brass cleaned without sanding it at all. If I do need to sand I just cut a small square of 2000 grit wet/dry paper and sand the brass with the polish on it. I use Q-tips to polish the small parts as they just work best for me. Apply the polish and clean with your pad or Q-tip. The trick to a great shine is to just keep repeating this process until your pad or q-tips no longer turn black when buffing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will show finished pictures of the planes at the end of the blog series. However here is a before and after of an old Disston hand saw that I restored. I used same process on the brass for the saw and it really stands out over everything else.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats all for todays blog. I am doing this blog in a series as it takes a bit of time to load all the pics and resize them. In my next blog of the series I will discuss re-painting and sanding/polishing the plane soles.
> 
> Thanks for reading!


I CHEAT like crazy when doing the brass bits.

I put them on a screw and put the screw in my drill. Then instead of holding the bit and polishing it, I spin it in the polish that I am holding.


----------



## Dcase

*Re-painting the plane body*

Its been a little bit since I have added to this series but I have been very busy as of late. This blog will focus on re-painting the plane body and frog.

This is one thing that I usually skip over when restoring planes. Most of the planes I have restored still had pretty decent japanning and showed only minor chipping and wear. That is fine with me, especially if I am going to be using them. However I have restored planes where the japanning was so damaged that I felt they needed a new paint job.

I have seen a number of different methods to doing this and a lot of them are more detailed then mine. I am personally ok with just a simple and cheap paint job that will look good and hold up. I also don't always strip all of the old japanning off the plane. You MUST scrap or sand off any loose finish but if your just looking for a minor touch up you don't have to remove all the old finish. I recently finished my #7 Stanley Jointer plane and that plane was in super rough shape. That one I removed all of the old finish. To do that I used my drill press with a wire brush attachment. Paint strippers will work if your removing a lot. After hitting it with the wire brush for a while I went in by hand with some sand paper and sanded everything smooth. I first applied two coats of primer, sanding after each coat then I used some spray paint that I bought at an automotive store. I applied 3 or 4 coats of the final finish.

There are many different spray paints and I am sure many of them will work just fine. The paint I used works great for me but may not be the best choice for someone else. I just went with fast, simple and easy. I don't like re painting them, its just not a fun thing for me to do so I wanted easy.

Just make sure to take your time in the prep work. Removing all loose japanning from the old finish, sanding everything smooth, wash the surface thats to be painted very well and make sure all loose dirt/rust is off, tape the parts that you don't want painted and then apply the primer and finish in multiple coats. 































































The Jointer plane is the plane that I used the spray paint on, the #3 shows how I taped it off. I don't have a finished pic of the #3 yet but as you can see with the #7 the new paint job looks much better then the before pic.

Thats all for this blog. Not the best blog for info on painting. I will spend a lot more time in the next blog talking about polishing and sanding the rest of the sole and then I will show all my before and after pics.

Thanks for reading


----------



## ratchet

Dcase said:


> *Re-painting the plane body*
> 
> Its been a little bit since I have added to this series but I have been very busy as of late. This blog will focus on re-painting the plane body and frog.
> 
> This is one thing that I usually skip over when restoring planes. Most of the planes I have restored still had pretty decent japanning and showed only minor chipping and wear. That is fine with me, especially if I am going to be using them. However I have restored planes where the japanning was so damaged that I felt they needed a new paint job.
> 
> I have seen a number of different methods to doing this and a lot of them are more detailed then mine. I am personally ok with just a simple and cheap paint job that will look good and hold up. I also don't always strip all of the old japanning off the plane. You MUST scrap or sand off any loose finish but if your just looking for a minor touch up you don't have to remove all the old finish. I recently finished my #7 Stanley Jointer plane and that plane was in super rough shape. That one I removed all of the old finish. To do that I used my drill press with a wire brush attachment. Paint strippers will work if your removing a lot. After hitting it with the wire brush for a while I went in by hand with some sand paper and sanded everything smooth. I first applied two coats of primer, sanding after each coat then I used some spray paint that I bought at an automotive store. I applied 3 or 4 coats of the final finish.
> 
> There are many different spray paints and I am sure many of them will work just fine. The paint I used works great for me but may not be the best choice for someone else. I just went with fast, simple and easy. I don't like re painting them, its just not a fun thing for me to do so I wanted easy.
> 
> Just make sure to take your time in the prep work. Removing all loose japanning from the old finish, sanding everything smooth, wash the surface thats to be painted very well and make sure all loose dirt/rust is off, tape the parts that you don't want painted and then apply the primer and finish in multiple coats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Jointer plane is the plane that I used the spray paint on, the #3 shows how I taped it off. I don't have a finished pic of the #3 yet but as you can see with the #7 the new paint job looks much better then the before pic.
> 
> Thats all for this blog. Not the best blog for info on painting. I will spend a lot more time in the next blog talking about polishing and sanding the rest of the sole and then I will show all my before and after pics.
> 
> Thanks for reading


Holy smokes thats quite a transformation. Nice work Dan.
Don't forget to include the obigatory shaving pic when complete.
Thanks for sharing.


----------



## Dennisgrosen

Dcase said:


> *Re-painting the plane body*
> 
> Its been a little bit since I have added to this series but I have been very busy as of late. This blog will focus on re-painting the plane body and frog.
> 
> This is one thing that I usually skip over when restoring planes. Most of the planes I have restored still had pretty decent japanning and showed only minor chipping and wear. That is fine with me, especially if I am going to be using them. However I have restored planes where the japanning was so damaged that I felt they needed a new paint job.
> 
> I have seen a number of different methods to doing this and a lot of them are more detailed then mine. I am personally ok with just a simple and cheap paint job that will look good and hold up. I also don't always strip all of the old japanning off the plane. You MUST scrap or sand off any loose finish but if your just looking for a minor touch up you don't have to remove all the old finish. I recently finished my #7 Stanley Jointer plane and that plane was in super rough shape. That one I removed all of the old finish. To do that I used my drill press with a wire brush attachment. Paint strippers will work if your removing a lot. After hitting it with the wire brush for a while I went in by hand with some sand paper and sanded everything smooth. I first applied two coats of primer, sanding after each coat then I used some spray paint that I bought at an automotive store. I applied 3 or 4 coats of the final finish.
> 
> There are many different spray paints and I am sure many of them will work just fine. The paint I used works great for me but may not be the best choice for someone else. I just went with fast, simple and easy. I don't like re painting them, its just not a fun thing for me to do so I wanted easy.
> 
> Just make sure to take your time in the prep work. Removing all loose japanning from the old finish, sanding everything smooth, wash the surface thats to be painted very well and make sure all loose dirt/rust is off, tape the parts that you don't want painted and then apply the primer and finish in multiple coats.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> The Jointer plane is the plane that I used the spray paint on, the #3 shows how I taped it off. I don't have a finished pic of the #3 yet but as you can see with the #7 the new paint job looks much better then the before pic.
> 
> Thats all for this blog. Not the best blog for info on painting. I will spend a lot more time in the next blog talking about polishing and sanding the rest of the sole and then I will show all my before and after pics.
> 
> Thanks for reading


still nice and informative Dan 

thank´s for taking your time to make the picture book and share with us

take care
Dennis


----------



## smitty22

Dcase said:


> *Re-painting the plane body*
> 
> Its been a little bit since I have added to this series but I have been very busy as of late. This blog will focus on re-painting the plane body and frog.
> 
> This is one thing that I usually skip over when restoring planes. Most of the planes I have restored still had pretty decent japanning and showed only minor chipping and wear. That is fine with me, especially if I am going to be using them. However I have restored planes where the japanning was so damaged that I felt they needed a new paint job.
> 
> I have seen a number of different methods to doing this and a lot of them are more detailed then mine. I am personally ok with just a simple and cheap paint job that will look good and hold up. I also don't always strip all of the old japanning off the plane. You MUST scrap or sand off any loose finish but if your just looking for a minor touch up you don't have to remove all the old finish. I recently finished my #7 Stanley Jointer plane and that plane was in super rough shape. That one I removed all of the old finish. To do that I used my drill press with a wire brush attachment. Paint strippers will work if your removing a lot. After hitting it with the wire brush for a while I went in by hand with some sand paper and sanded everything smooth. I first applied two coats of primer, sanding after each coat then I used some spray paint that I bought at an automotive store. I applied 3 or 4 coats of the final finish.
> 
> There are many different spray paints and I am sure many of them will work just fine. The paint I used works great for me but may not be the best choice for someone else. I just went with fast, simple and easy. I don't like re painting them, its just not a fun thing for me to do so I wanted easy.
> 
> Just make sure to take your time in the prep work. Removing all loose japanning from the old finish, sanding everything smooth, wash the surface thats to be painted very well and make sure all loose dirt/rust is off, tape the parts that you don't want painted and then apply the primer and finish in multiple coats.
> 
> 
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> 
> The Jointer plane is the plane that I used the spray paint on, the #3 shows how I taped it off. I don't have a finished pic of the #3 yet but as you can see with the #7 the new paint job looks much better then the before pic.
> 
> Thats all for this blog. Not the best blog for info on painting. I will spend a lot more time in the next blog talking about polishing and sanding the rest of the sole and then I will show all my before and after pics.
> 
> Thanks for reading


Thanks, looking forward to the metal polishing info. Tried my belt sander on one plane but probably not the best choice.


----------



## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *Re-painting the plane body*
> 
> Its been a little bit since I have added to this series but I have been very busy as of late. This blog will focus on re-painting the plane body and frog.
> 
> This is one thing that I usually skip over when restoring planes. Most of the planes I have restored still had pretty decent japanning and showed only minor chipping and wear. That is fine with me, especially if I am going to be using them. However I have restored planes where the japanning was so damaged that I felt they needed a new paint job.
> 
> I have seen a number of different methods to doing this and a lot of them are more detailed then mine. I am personally ok with just a simple and cheap paint job that will look good and hold up. I also don't always strip all of the old japanning off the plane. You MUST scrap or sand off any loose finish but if your just looking for a minor touch up you don't have to remove all the old finish. I recently finished my #7 Stanley Jointer plane and that plane was in super rough shape. That one I removed all of the old finish. To do that I used my drill press with a wire brush attachment. Paint strippers will work if your removing a lot. After hitting it with the wire brush for a while I went in by hand with some sand paper and sanded everything smooth. I first applied two coats of primer, sanding after each coat then I used some spray paint that I bought at an automotive store. I applied 3 or 4 coats of the final finish.
> 
> There are many different spray paints and I am sure many of them will work just fine. The paint I used works great for me but may not be the best choice for someone else. I just went with fast, simple and easy. I don't like re painting them, its just not a fun thing for me to do so I wanted easy.
> 
> Just make sure to take your time in the prep work. Removing all loose japanning from the old finish, sanding everything smooth, wash the surface thats to be painted very well and make sure all loose dirt/rust is off, tape the parts that you don't want painted and then apply the primer and finish in multiple coats.
> 
> 
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> 
> The Jointer plane is the plane that I used the spray paint on, the #3 shows how I taped it off. I don't have a finished pic of the #3 yet but as you can see with the #7 the new paint job looks much better then the before pic.
> 
> Thats all for this blog. Not the best blog for info on painting. I will spend a lot more time in the next blog talking about polishing and sanding the rest of the sole and then I will show all my before and after pics.
> 
> Thanks for reading


Ratchet- I never thought of shaving pics but since you brought it up I will be sure to add some. Thanks

Dale- I have never used a belt sander on them I think thats probably over kill. Sanding and polishing the sides does not require nearly as much as what most may think. I will hopefully have the next blog up within a few days.

Thanks


----------



## Disneytodd

Dcase said:


> *Re-painting the plane body*
> 
> Its been a little bit since I have added to this series but I have been very busy as of late. This blog will focus on re-painting the plane body and frog.
> 
> This is one thing that I usually skip over when restoring planes. Most of the planes I have restored still had pretty decent japanning and showed only minor chipping and wear. That is fine with me, especially if I am going to be using them. However I have restored planes where the japanning was so damaged that I felt they needed a new paint job.
> 
> I have seen a number of different methods to doing this and a lot of them are more detailed then mine. I am personally ok with just a simple and cheap paint job that will look good and hold up. I also don't always strip all of the old japanning off the plane. You MUST scrap or sand off any loose finish but if your just looking for a minor touch up you don't have to remove all the old finish. I recently finished my #7 Stanley Jointer plane and that plane was in super rough shape. That one I removed all of the old finish. To do that I used my drill press with a wire brush attachment. Paint strippers will work if your removing a lot. After hitting it with the wire brush for a while I went in by hand with some sand paper and sanded everything smooth. I first applied two coats of primer, sanding after each coat then I used some spray paint that I bought at an automotive store. I applied 3 or 4 coats of the final finish.
> 
> There are many different spray paints and I am sure many of them will work just fine. The paint I used works great for me but may not be the best choice for someone else. I just went with fast, simple and easy. I don't like re painting them, its just not a fun thing for me to do so I wanted easy.
> 
> Just make sure to take your time in the prep work. Removing all loose japanning from the old finish, sanding everything smooth, wash the surface thats to be painted very well and make sure all loose dirt/rust is off, tape the parts that you don't want painted and then apply the primer and finish in multiple coats.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> The Jointer plane is the plane that I used the spray paint on, the #3 shows how I taped it off. I don't have a finished pic of the #3 yet but as you can see with the #7 the new paint job looks much better then the before pic.
> 
> Thats all for this blog. Not the best blog for info on painting. I will spend a lot more time in the next blog talking about polishing and sanding the rest of the sole and then I will show all my before and after pics.
> 
> Thanks for reading


I have used a brush on oil paint because I can get almost the same finish as the original jappaning I have only done my egg beater drill and it's like new and I plan to reduce all my planes soon.


----------



## Dcase

*Sanding and Polishing the body and metal parts*

In my first blog of this series I talked about removing the rust using Evapo-Rust. The following picture shows my Stanley #4 after it was soaked over night in Evapo-Rust and washed and scrubbed clean. 









I have polished and sanded the sides a number of different ways. I have done all by hand with folded up sand paper and sanding blocks, I have used my dremmel tool with different attachments and I have used my drill press with wire brush. I find all of these to be way to time consuming. I find it fastest and easiest to lap the sides of the body the same way you would lap the sole. Lapping the sides wont necessarily effect the use but I now do it on all the planes I restore. I usually start with 180 grit paper attached to some plate glass. I will lap it with this grit for a min or two and then check to see where it is at. If it looks to be touching on most of the sides then I continue with this grit and work up to 800 or 1000 grit. You don't have to polish it to a real high grit, in most cases 400 grit will be just fine. It just depends on how shiny you want it to be. You can go higher then 1000 if you want to as well. 




































If the plane is in rough shape I may move down to 120 grit. I don't stay on one grit for long. I try and move back and forth so that I don't end up with deep scratch patterns from the lower grits. As far as the paper goes I was using all automotive paper but I recently found that the 3M purple sandpaper that Home Depot sells works great for the lower grits. I move to wet/dry paper once I am at 400 grit. I do most of this work with dry paper. I may get the last few grits a little damp with some water or mineral spirits. The following is the plane side after 400 grit.










And then after 800










You will have some areas that are low and just are not hitting the paper. I just hit these areas by hand with paper or sanding block. I also use a sanding block and paper on the top edge of the sides and around the front of the sole edge. Wear gloves and mask unless you want black hands and a nose full of metal dust.. It leaves a really bad taste in the back of your throat when you breath to much of it in.

The frog of the plane gets the same treatment however I try and get the face of the frog pretty flat. I remove the york adjustment thing to do this.










Once I am done with the lapping and sanding I go over it with some polish. I have used a few different types of polish and they have all worked well. I do this by hand. I would assume a buffing wheel would work better but I don't own one. The polish I have in the picture I had bought for an Aluminum project but it said on the label that it worked on all metals. I tried it out and it worked really well so I have been using it on the planes. Check the automotive store and I am sure they will have a large selection of metal polish in all different price ranges. 


















Just keep buffing/polishing until you reach the point that you want to reach. Some pits, scratches and dings will be to deep to completely sand and buff out.

This does not take much time, even if the plane is in bad shape. It is messy though. I hope I covered enough. Pretty simple really.

Here is before and after of the Stanley #4


----------



## davidmicraig

Dcase said:


> *Sanding and Polishing the body and metal parts*
> 
> In my first blog of this series I talked about removing the rust using Evapo-Rust. The following picture shows my Stanley #4 after it was soaked over night in Evapo-Rust and washed and scrubbed clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have polished and sanded the sides a number of different ways. I have done all by hand with folded up sand paper and sanding blocks, I have used my dremmel tool with different attachments and I have used my drill press with wire brush. I find all of these to be way to time consuming. I find it fastest and easiest to lap the sides of the body the same way you would lap the sole. Lapping the sides wont necessarily effect the use but I now do it on all the planes I restore. I usually start with 180 grit paper attached to some plate glass. I will lap it with this grit for a min or two and then check to see where it is at. If it looks to be touching on most of the sides then I continue with this grit and work up to 800 or 1000 grit. You don't have to polish it to a real high grit, in most cases 400 grit will be just fine. It just depends on how shiny you want it to be. You can go higher then 1000 if you want to as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the plane is in rough shape I may move down to 120 grit. I don't stay on one grit for long. I try and move back and forth so that I don't end up with deep scratch patterns from the lower grits. As far as the paper goes I was using all automotive paper but I recently found that the 3M purple sandpaper that Home Depot sells works great for the lower grits. I move to wet/dry paper once I am at 400 grit. I do most of this work with dry paper. I may get the last few grits a little damp with some water or mineral spirits. The following is the plane side after 400 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then after 800
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will have some areas that are low and just are not hitting the paper. I just hit these areas by hand with paper or sanding block. I also use a sanding block and paper on the top edge of the sides and around the front of the sole edge. Wear gloves and mask unless you want black hands and a nose full of metal dust.. It leaves a really bad taste in the back of your throat when you breath to much of it in.
> 
> The frog of the plane gets the same treatment however I try and get the face of the frog pretty flat. I remove the york adjustment thing to do this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I am done with the lapping and sanding I go over it with some polish. I have used a few different types of polish and they have all worked well. I do this by hand. I would assume a buffing wheel would work better but I don't own one. The polish I have in the picture I had bought for an Aluminum project but it said on the label that it worked on all metals. I tried it out and it worked really well so I have been using it on the planes. Check the automotive store and I am sure they will have a large selection of metal polish in all different price ranges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just keep buffing/polishing until you reach the point that you want to reach. Some pits, scratches and dings will be to deep to completely sand and buff out.
> 
> This does not take much time, even if the plane is in bad shape. It is messy though. I hope I covered enough. Pretty simple really.
> 
> Here is before and after of the Stanley #4


Awesome job in your plane restoration. I follow your method for working the sides of the plane as well. One added benefit to this process is that, with the sides flattened, the surface is even and stable for shooting board style operations where the plane is setting on its sides.

Thanks for posting,

David


----------



## Dennisgrosen

Dcase said:


> *Sanding and Polishing the body and metal parts*
> 
> In my first blog of this series I talked about removing the rust using Evapo-Rust. The following picture shows my Stanley #4 after it was soaked over night in Evapo-Rust and washed and scrubbed clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have polished and sanded the sides a number of different ways. I have done all by hand with folded up sand paper and sanding blocks, I have used my dremmel tool with different attachments and I have used my drill press with wire brush. I find all of these to be way to time consuming. I find it fastest and easiest to lap the sides of the body the same way you would lap the sole. Lapping the sides wont necessarily effect the use but I now do it on all the planes I restore. I usually start with 180 grit paper attached to some plate glass. I will lap it with this grit for a min or two and then check to see where it is at. If it looks to be touching on most of the sides then I continue with this grit and work up to 800 or 1000 grit. You don't have to polish it to a real high grit, in most cases 400 grit will be just fine. It just depends on how shiny you want it to be. You can go higher then 1000 if you want to as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the plane is in rough shape I may move down to 120 grit. I don't stay on one grit for long. I try and move back and forth so that I don't end up with deep scratch patterns from the lower grits. As far as the paper goes I was using all automotive paper but I recently found that the 3M purple sandpaper that Home Depot sells works great for the lower grits. I move to wet/dry paper once I am at 400 grit. I do most of this work with dry paper. I may get the last few grits a little damp with some water or mineral spirits. The following is the plane side after 400 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then after 800
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will have some areas that are low and just are not hitting the paper. I just hit these areas by hand with paper or sanding block. I also use a sanding block and paper on the top edge of the sides and around the front of the sole edge. Wear gloves and mask unless you want black hands and a nose full of metal dust.. It leaves a really bad taste in the back of your throat when you breath to much of it in.
> 
> The frog of the plane gets the same treatment however I try and get the face of the frog pretty flat. I remove the york adjustment thing to do this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I am done with the lapping and sanding I go over it with some polish. I have used a few different types of polish and they have all worked well. I do this by hand. I would assume a buffing wheel would work better but I don't own one. The polish I have in the picture I had bought for an Aluminum project but it said on the label that it worked on all metals. I tried it out and it worked really well so I have been using it on the planes. Check the automotive store and I am sure they will have a large selection of metal polish in all different price ranges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just keep buffing/polishing until you reach the point that you want to reach. Some pits, scratches and dings will be to deep to completely sand and buff out.
> 
> This does not take much time, even if the plane is in bad shape. It is messy though. I hope I covered enough. Pretty simple really.
> 
> Here is before and after of the Stanley #4


thank´s again for sharing and taking the time to makes theese great toturials Dan 

David :
just remember if you want to use it as a shooter 
you have to use a square fence it can ride agains when laping the sides 
or ells you wont want to use it as a shooter…...LOL

take care
Dennis


----------



## canadianchips

Dcase said:


> *Sanding and Polishing the body and metal parts*
> 
> In my first blog of this series I talked about removing the rust using Evapo-Rust. The following picture shows my Stanley #4 after it was soaked over night in Evapo-Rust and washed and scrubbed clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have polished and sanded the sides a number of different ways. I have done all by hand with folded up sand paper and sanding blocks, I have used my dremmel tool with different attachments and I have used my drill press with wire brush. I find all of these to be way to time consuming. I find it fastest and easiest to lap the sides of the body the same way you would lap the sole. Lapping the sides wont necessarily effect the use but I now do it on all the planes I restore. I usually start with 180 grit paper attached to some plate glass. I will lap it with this grit for a min or two and then check to see where it is at. If it looks to be touching on most of the sides then I continue with this grit and work up to 800 or 1000 grit. You don't have to polish it to a real high grit, in most cases 400 grit will be just fine. It just depends on how shiny you want it to be. You can go higher then 1000 if you want to as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the plane is in rough shape I may move down to 120 grit. I don't stay on one grit for long. I try and move back and forth so that I don't end up with deep scratch patterns from the lower grits. As far as the paper goes I was using all automotive paper but I recently found that the 3M purple sandpaper that Home Depot sells works great for the lower grits. I move to wet/dry paper once I am at 400 grit. I do most of this work with dry paper. I may get the last few grits a little damp with some water or mineral spirits. The following is the plane side after 400 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then after 800
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will have some areas that are low and just are not hitting the paper. I just hit these areas by hand with paper or sanding block. I also use a sanding block and paper on the top edge of the sides and around the front of the sole edge. Wear gloves and mask unless you want black hands and a nose full of metal dust.. It leaves a really bad taste in the back of your throat when you breath to much of it in.
> 
> The frog of the plane gets the same treatment however I try and get the face of the frog pretty flat. I remove the york adjustment thing to do this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I am done with the lapping and sanding I go over it with some polish. I have used a few different types of polish and they have all worked well. I do this by hand. I would assume a buffing wheel would work better but I don't own one. The polish I have in the picture I had bought for an Aluminum project but it said on the label that it worked on all metals. I tried it out and it worked really well so I have been using it on the planes. Check the automotive store and I am sure they will have a large selection of metal polish in all different price ranges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just keep buffing/polishing until you reach the point that you want to reach. Some pits, scratches and dings will be to deep to completely sand and buff out.
> 
> This does not take much time, even if the plane is in bad shape. It is messy though. I hope I covered enough. Pretty simple really.
> 
> Here is before and after of the Stanley #4


Another good plane saved from a rust bucket. GOOD WORK !


----------



## Alonso83

Dcase said:


> *Sanding and Polishing the body and metal parts*
> 
> In my first blog of this series I talked about removing the rust using Evapo-Rust. The following picture shows my Stanley #4 after it was soaked over night in Evapo-Rust and washed and scrubbed clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have polished and sanded the sides a number of different ways. I have done all by hand with folded up sand paper and sanding blocks, I have used my dremmel tool with different attachments and I have used my drill press with wire brush. I find all of these to be way to time consuming. I find it fastest and easiest to lap the sides of the body the same way you would lap the sole. Lapping the sides wont necessarily effect the use but I now do it on all the planes I restore. I usually start with 180 grit paper attached to some plate glass. I will lap it with this grit for a min or two and then check to see where it is at. If it looks to be touching on most of the sides then I continue with this grit and work up to 800 or 1000 grit. You don't have to polish it to a real high grit, in most cases 400 grit will be just fine. It just depends on how shiny you want it to be. You can go higher then 1000 if you want to as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> If the plane is in rough shape I may move down to 120 grit. I don't stay on one grit for long. I try and move back and forth so that I don't end up with deep scratch patterns from the lower grits. As far as the paper goes I was using all automotive paper but I recently found that the 3M purple sandpaper that Home Depot sells works great for the lower grits. I move to wet/dry paper once I am at 400 grit. I do most of this work with dry paper. I may get the last few grits a little damp with some water or mineral spirits. The following is the plane side after 400 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then after 800
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will have some areas that are low and just are not hitting the paper. I just hit these areas by hand with paper or sanding block. I also use a sanding block and paper on the top edge of the sides and around the front of the sole edge. Wear gloves and mask unless you want black hands and a nose full of metal dust.. It leaves a really bad taste in the back of your throat when you breath to much of it in.
> 
> The frog of the plane gets the same treatment however I try and get the face of the frog pretty flat. I remove the york adjustment thing to do this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I am done with the lapping and sanding I go over it with some polish. I have used a few different types of polish and they have all worked well. I do this by hand. I would assume a buffing wheel would work better but I don't own one. The polish I have in the picture I had bought for an Aluminum project but it said on the label that it worked on all metals. I tried it out and it worked really well so I have been using it on the planes. Check the automotive store and I am sure they will have a large selection of metal polish in all different price ranges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just keep buffing/polishing until you reach the point that you want to reach. Some pits, scratches and dings will be to deep to completely sand and buff out.
> 
> This does not take much time, even if the plane is in bad shape. It is messy though. I hope I covered enough. Pretty simple really.
> 
> Here is before and after of the Stanley #4


Very nice, I like it, it remembers me when I was doing all my restorations..... oohh I loved those days…


----------



## smitty22

Dcase said:


> *Sanding and Polishing the body and metal parts*
> 
> In my first blog of this series I talked about removing the rust using Evapo-Rust. The following picture shows my Stanley #4 after it was soaked over night in Evapo-Rust and washed and scrubbed clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have polished and sanded the sides a number of different ways. I have done all by hand with folded up sand paper and sanding blocks, I have used my dremmel tool with different attachments and I have used my drill press with wire brush. I find all of these to be way to time consuming. I find it fastest and easiest to lap the sides of the body the same way you would lap the sole. Lapping the sides wont necessarily effect the use but I now do it on all the planes I restore. I usually start with 180 grit paper attached to some plate glass. I will lap it with this grit for a min or two and then check to see where it is at. If it looks to be touching on most of the sides then I continue with this grit and work up to 800 or 1000 grit. You don't have to polish it to a real high grit, in most cases 400 grit will be just fine. It just depends on how shiny you want it to be. You can go higher then 1000 if you want to as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the plane is in rough shape I may move down to 120 grit. I don't stay on one grit for long. I try and move back and forth so that I don't end up with deep scratch patterns from the lower grits. As far as the paper goes I was using all automotive paper but I recently found that the 3M purple sandpaper that Home Depot sells works great for the lower grits. I move to wet/dry paper once I am at 400 grit. I do most of this work with dry paper. I may get the last few grits a little damp with some water or mineral spirits. The following is the plane side after 400 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then after 800
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will have some areas that are low and just are not hitting the paper. I just hit these areas by hand with paper or sanding block. I also use a sanding block and paper on the top edge of the sides and around the front of the sole edge. Wear gloves and mask unless you want black hands and a nose full of metal dust.. It leaves a really bad taste in the back of your throat when you breath to much of it in.
> 
> The frog of the plane gets the same treatment however I try and get the face of the frog pretty flat. I remove the york adjustment thing to do this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I am done with the lapping and sanding I go over it with some polish. I have used a few different types of polish and they have all worked well. I do this by hand. I would assume a buffing wheel would work better but I don't own one. The polish I have in the picture I had bought for an Aluminum project but it said on the label that it worked on all metals. I tried it out and it worked really well so I have been using it on the planes. Check the automotive store and I am sure they will have a large selection of metal polish in all different price ranges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just keep buffing/polishing until you reach the point that you want to reach. Some pits, scratches and dings will be to deep to completely sand and buff out.
> 
> This does not take much time, even if the plane is in bad shape. It is messy though. I hope I covered enough. Pretty simple really.
> 
> Here is before and after of the Stanley #4


Dan, 
Great Stuff, Thanks again!


----------



## bigike

Dcase said:


> *Sanding and Polishing the body and metal parts*
> 
> In my first blog of this series I talked about removing the rust using Evapo-Rust. The following picture shows my Stanley #4 after it was soaked over night in Evapo-Rust and washed and scrubbed clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have polished and sanded the sides a number of different ways. I have done all by hand with folded up sand paper and sanding blocks, I have used my dremmel tool with different attachments and I have used my drill press with wire brush. I find all of these to be way to time consuming. I find it fastest and easiest to lap the sides of the body the same way you would lap the sole. Lapping the sides wont necessarily effect the use but I now do it on all the planes I restore. I usually start with 180 grit paper attached to some plate glass. I will lap it with this grit for a min or two and then check to see where it is at. If it looks to be touching on most of the sides then I continue with this grit and work up to 800 or 1000 grit. You don't have to polish it to a real high grit, in most cases 400 grit will be just fine. It just depends on how shiny you want it to be. You can go higher then 1000 if you want to as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the plane is in rough shape I may move down to 120 grit. I don't stay on one grit for long. I try and move back and forth so that I don't end up with deep scratch patterns from the lower grits. As far as the paper goes I was using all automotive paper but I recently found that the 3M purple sandpaper that Home Depot sells works great for the lower grits. I move to wet/dry paper once I am at 400 grit. I do most of this work with dry paper. I may get the last few grits a little damp with some water or mineral spirits. The following is the plane side after 400 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then after 800
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will have some areas that are low and just are not hitting the paper. I just hit these areas by hand with paper or sanding block. I also use a sanding block and paper on the top edge of the sides and around the front of the sole edge. Wear gloves and mask unless you want black hands and a nose full of metal dust.. It leaves a really bad taste in the back of your throat when you breath to much of it in.
> 
> The frog of the plane gets the same treatment however I try and get the face of the frog pretty flat. I remove the york adjustment thing to do this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I am done with the lapping and sanding I go over it with some polish. I have used a few different types of polish and they have all worked well. I do this by hand. I would assume a buffing wheel would work better but I don't own one. The polish I have in the picture I had bought for an Aluminum project but it said on the label that it worked on all metals. I tried it out and it worked really well so I have been using it on the planes. Check the automotive store and I am sure they will have a large selection of metal polish in all different price ranges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just keep buffing/polishing until you reach the point that you want to reach. Some pits, scratches and dings will be to deep to completely sand and buff out.
> 
> This does not take much time, even if the plane is in bad shape. It is messy though. I hope I covered enough. Pretty simple really.
> 
> Here is before and after of the Stanley #4


great work, the polish is a good idea.


----------



## mafe

Dcase said:


> *Sanding and Polishing the body and metal parts*
> 
> In my first blog of this series I talked about removing the rust using Evapo-Rust. The following picture shows my Stanley #4 after it was soaked over night in Evapo-Rust and washed and scrubbed clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have polished and sanded the sides a number of different ways. I have done all by hand with folded up sand paper and sanding blocks, I have used my dremmel tool with different attachments and I have used my drill press with wire brush. I find all of these to be way to time consuming. I find it fastest and easiest to lap the sides of the body the same way you would lap the sole. Lapping the sides wont necessarily effect the use but I now do it on all the planes I restore. I usually start with 180 grit paper attached to some plate glass. I will lap it with this grit for a min or two and then check to see where it is at. If it looks to be touching on most of the sides then I continue with this grit and work up to 800 or 1000 grit. You don't have to polish it to a real high grit, in most cases 400 grit will be just fine. It just depends on how shiny you want it to be. You can go higher then 1000 if you want to as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the plane is in rough shape I may move down to 120 grit. I don't stay on one grit for long. I try and move back and forth so that I don't end up with deep scratch patterns from the lower grits. As far as the paper goes I was using all automotive paper but I recently found that the 3M purple sandpaper that Home Depot sells works great for the lower grits. I move to wet/dry paper once I am at 400 grit. I do most of this work with dry paper. I may get the last few grits a little damp with some water or mineral spirits. The following is the plane side after 400 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then after 800
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will have some areas that are low and just are not hitting the paper. I just hit these areas by hand with paper or sanding block. I also use a sanding block and paper on the top edge of the sides and around the front of the sole edge. Wear gloves and mask unless you want black hands and a nose full of metal dust.. It leaves a really bad taste in the back of your throat when you breath to much of it in.
> 
> The frog of the plane gets the same treatment however I try and get the face of the frog pretty flat. I remove the york adjustment thing to do this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I am done with the lapping and sanding I go over it with some polish. I have used a few different types of polish and they have all worked well. I do this by hand. I would assume a buffing wheel would work better but I don't own one. The polish I have in the picture I had bought for an Aluminum project but it said on the label that it worked on all metals. I tried it out and it worked really well so I have been using it on the planes. Check the automotive store and I am sure they will have a large selection of metal polish in all different price ranges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just keep buffing/polishing until you reach the point that you want to reach. Some pits, scratches and dings will be to deep to completely sand and buff out.
> 
> This does not take much time, even if the plane is in bad shape. It is messy though. I hope I covered enough. Pretty simple really.
> 
> Here is before and after of the Stanley #4


Hi Dan,
You made a beautiful job.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## chrispcall

Dcase said:


> *Sanding and Polishing the body and metal parts*
> 
> In my first blog of this series I talked about removing the rust using Evapo-Rust. The following picture shows my Stanley #4 after it was soaked over night in Evapo-Rust and washed and scrubbed clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have polished and sanded the sides a number of different ways. I have done all by hand with folded up sand paper and sanding blocks, I have used my dremmel tool with different attachments and I have used my drill press with wire brush. I find all of these to be way to time consuming. I find it fastest and easiest to lap the sides of the body the same way you would lap the sole. Lapping the sides wont necessarily effect the use but I now do it on all the planes I restore. I usually start with 180 grit paper attached to some plate glass. I will lap it with this grit for a min or two and then check to see where it is at. If it looks to be touching on most of the sides then I continue with this grit and work up to 800 or 1000 grit. You don't have to polish it to a real high grit, in most cases 400 grit will be just fine. It just depends on how shiny you want it to be. You can go higher then 1000 if you want to as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the plane is in rough shape I may move down to 120 grit. I don't stay on one grit for long. I try and move back and forth so that I don't end up with deep scratch patterns from the lower grits. As far as the paper goes I was using all automotive paper but I recently found that the 3M purple sandpaper that Home Depot sells works great for the lower grits. I move to wet/dry paper once I am at 400 grit. I do most of this work with dry paper. I may get the last few grits a little damp with some water or mineral spirits. The following is the plane side after 400 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then after 800
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will have some areas that are low and just are not hitting the paper. I just hit these areas by hand with paper or sanding block. I also use a sanding block and paper on the top edge of the sides and around the front of the sole edge. Wear gloves and mask unless you want black hands and a nose full of metal dust.. It leaves a really bad taste in the back of your throat when you breath to much of it in.
> 
> The frog of the plane gets the same treatment however I try and get the face of the frog pretty flat. I remove the york adjustment thing to do this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I am done with the lapping and sanding I go over it with some polish. I have used a few different types of polish and they have all worked well. I do this by hand. I would assume a buffing wheel would work better but I don't own one. The polish I have in the picture I had bought for an Aluminum project but it said on the label that it worked on all metals. I tried it out and it worked really well so I have been using it on the planes. Check the automotive store and I am sure they will have a large selection of metal polish in all different price ranges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just keep buffing/polishing until you reach the point that you want to reach. Some pits, scratches and dings will be to deep to completely sand and buff out.
> 
> This does not take much time, even if the plane is in bad shape. It is messy though. I hope I covered enough. Pretty simple really.
> 
> Here is before and after of the Stanley #4


Awesome job. Looks like new!


----------



## WoodworkingGeek

Dcase said:


> *Sanding and Polishing the body and metal parts*
> 
> In my first blog of this series I talked about removing the rust using Evapo-Rust. The following picture shows my Stanley #4 after it was soaked over night in Evapo-Rust and washed and scrubbed clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have polished and sanded the sides a number of different ways. I have done all by hand with folded up sand paper and sanding blocks, I have used my dremmel tool with different attachments and I have used my drill press with wire brush. I find all of these to be way to time consuming. I find it fastest and easiest to lap the sides of the body the same way you would lap the sole. Lapping the sides wont necessarily effect the use but I now do it on all the planes I restore. I usually start with 180 grit paper attached to some plate glass. I will lap it with this grit for a min or two and then check to see where it is at. If it looks to be touching on most of the sides then I continue with this grit and work up to 800 or 1000 grit. You don't have to polish it to a real high grit, in most cases 400 grit will be just fine. It just depends on how shiny you want it to be. You can go higher then 1000 if you want to as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the plane is in rough shape I may move down to 120 grit. I don't stay on one grit for long. I try and move back and forth so that I don't end up with deep scratch patterns from the lower grits. As far as the paper goes I was using all automotive paper but I recently found that the 3M purple sandpaper that Home Depot sells works great for the lower grits. I move to wet/dry paper once I am at 400 grit. I do most of this work with dry paper. I may get the last few grits a little damp with some water or mineral spirits. The following is the plane side after 400 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then after 800
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will have some areas that are low and just are not hitting the paper. I just hit these areas by hand with paper or sanding block. I also use a sanding block and paper on the top edge of the sides and around the front of the sole edge. Wear gloves and mask unless you want black hands and a nose full of metal dust.. It leaves a really bad taste in the back of your throat when you breath to much of it in.
> 
> The frog of the plane gets the same treatment however I try and get the face of the frog pretty flat. I remove the york adjustment thing to do this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I am done with the lapping and sanding I go over it with some polish. I have used a few different types of polish and they have all worked well. I do this by hand. I would assume a buffing wheel would work better but I don't own one. The polish I have in the picture I had bought for an Aluminum project but it said on the label that it worked on all metals. I tried it out and it worked really well so I have been using it on the planes. Check the automotive store and I am sure they will have a large selection of metal polish in all different price ranges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just keep buffing/polishing until you reach the point that you want to reach. Some pits, scratches and dings will be to deep to completely sand and buff out.
> 
> This does not take much time, even if the plane is in bad shape. It is messy though. I hope I covered enough. Pretty simple really.
> 
> Here is before and after of the Stanley #4


Hey nice job!
I'm wondering what you do to the tote and knob, Do you paint them?
Thanks


----------



## Holbs

Dcase said:


> *Sanding and Polishing the body and metal parts*
> 
> In my first blog of this series I talked about removing the rust using Evapo-Rust. The following picture shows my Stanley #4 after it was soaked over night in Evapo-Rust and washed and scrubbed clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have polished and sanded the sides a number of different ways. I have done all by hand with folded up sand paper and sanding blocks, I have used my dremmel tool with different attachments and I have used my drill press with wire brush. I find all of these to be way to time consuming. I find it fastest and easiest to lap the sides of the body the same way you would lap the sole. Lapping the sides wont necessarily effect the use but I now do it on all the planes I restore. I usually start with 180 grit paper attached to some plate glass. I will lap it with this grit for a min or two and then check to see where it is at. If it looks to be touching on most of the sides then I continue with this grit and work up to 800 or 1000 grit. You don't have to polish it to a real high grit, in most cases 400 grit will be just fine. It just depends on how shiny you want it to be. You can go higher then 1000 if you want to as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the plane is in rough shape I may move down to 120 grit. I don't stay on one grit for long. I try and move back and forth so that I don't end up with deep scratch patterns from the lower grits. As far as the paper goes I was using all automotive paper but I recently found that the 3M purple sandpaper that Home Depot sells works great for the lower grits. I move to wet/dry paper once I am at 400 grit. I do most of this work with dry paper. I may get the last few grits a little damp with some water or mineral spirits. The following is the plane side after 400 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then after 800
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will have some areas that are low and just are not hitting the paper. I just hit these areas by hand with paper or sanding block. I also use a sanding block and paper on the top edge of the sides and around the front of the sole edge. Wear gloves and mask unless you want black hands and a nose full of metal dust.. It leaves a really bad taste in the back of your throat when you breath to much of it in.
> 
> The frog of the plane gets the same treatment however I try and get the face of the frog pretty flat. I remove the york adjustment thing to do this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I am done with the lapping and sanding I go over it with some polish. I have used a few different types of polish and they have all worked well. I do this by hand. I would assume a buffing wheel would work better but I don't own one. The polish I have in the picture I had bought for an Aluminum project but it said on the label that it worked on all metals. I tried it out and it worked really well so I have been using it on the planes. Check the automotive store and I am sure they will have a large selection of metal polish in all different price ranges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just keep buffing/polishing until you reach the point that you want to reach. Some pits, scratches and dings will be to deep to completely sand and buff out.
> 
> This does not take much time, even if the plane is in bad shape. It is messy though. I hope I covered enough. Pretty simple really.
> 
> Here is before and after of the Stanley #4


you should toss up a youtube video, from start to finish of your next hand plane restoration!


----------



## Jeffjr02

Dcase said:


> *Sanding and Polishing the body and metal parts*
> 
> In my first blog of this series I talked about removing the rust using Evapo-Rust. The following picture shows my Stanley #4 after it was soaked over night in Evapo-Rust and washed and scrubbed clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have polished and sanded the sides a number of different ways. I have done all by hand with folded up sand paper and sanding blocks, I have used my dremmel tool with different attachments and I have used my drill press with wire brush. I find all of these to be way to time consuming. I find it fastest and easiest to lap the sides of the body the same way you would lap the sole. Lapping the sides wont necessarily effect the use but I now do it on all the planes I restore. I usually start with 180 grit paper attached to some plate glass. I will lap it with this grit for a min or two and then check to see where it is at. If it looks to be touching on most of the sides then I continue with this grit and work up to 800 or 1000 grit. You don't have to polish it to a real high grit, in most cases 400 grit will be just fine. It just depends on how shiny you want it to be. You can go higher then 1000 if you want to as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the plane is in rough shape I may move down to 120 grit. I don't stay on one grit for long. I try and move back and forth so that I don't end up with deep scratch patterns from the lower grits. As far as the paper goes I was using all automotive paper but I recently found that the 3M purple sandpaper that Home Depot sells works great for the lower grits. I move to wet/dry paper once I am at 400 grit. I do most of this work with dry paper. I may get the last few grits a little damp with some water or mineral spirits. The following is the plane side after 400 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then after 800
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will have some areas that are low and just are not hitting the paper. I just hit these areas by hand with paper or sanding block. I also use a sanding block and paper on the top edge of the sides and around the front of the sole edge. Wear gloves and mask unless you want black hands and a nose full of metal dust.. It leaves a really bad taste in the back of your throat when you breath to much of it in.
> 
> The frog of the plane gets the same treatment however I try and get the face of the frog pretty flat. I remove the york adjustment thing to do this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I am done with the lapping and sanding I go over it with some polish. I have used a few different types of polish and they have all worked well. I do this by hand. I would assume a buffing wheel would work better but I don't own one. The polish I have in the picture I had bought for an Aluminum project but it said on the label that it worked on all metals. I tried it out and it worked really well so I have been using it on the planes. Check the automotive store and I am sure they will have a large selection of metal polish in all different price ranges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just keep buffing/polishing until you reach the point that you want to reach. Some pits, scratches and dings will be to deep to completely sand and buff out.
> 
> This does not take much time, even if the plane is in bad shape. It is messy though. I hope I covered enough. Pretty simple really.
> 
> Here is before and after of the Stanley #4


This is a great blog series. I'm about to start my first restoration and I think I'm going to follow your procedure (though I may try the real japanning if necessary). I did have one question. What do you did for the wood tote and knob? Do you just run a little fine grit sandpaper to get the century of grime off or do you somehow refinish them?


----------



## Spitfire1

Dcase said:


> *Sanding and Polishing the body and metal parts*
> 
> In my first blog of this series I talked about removing the rust using Evapo-Rust. The following picture shows my Stanley #4 after it was soaked over night in Evapo-Rust and washed and scrubbed clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have polished and sanded the sides a number of different ways. I have done all by hand with folded up sand paper and sanding blocks, I have used my dremmel tool with different attachments and I have used my drill press with wire brush. I find all of these to be way to time consuming. I find it fastest and easiest to lap the sides of the body the same way you would lap the sole. Lapping the sides wont necessarily effect the use but I now do it on all the planes I restore. I usually start with 180 grit paper attached to some plate glass. I will lap it with this grit for a min or two and then check to see where it is at. If it looks to be touching on most of the sides then I continue with this grit and work up to 800 or 1000 grit. You don't have to polish it to a real high grit, in most cases 400 grit will be just fine. It just depends on how shiny you want it to be. You can go higher then 1000 if you want to as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the plane is in rough shape I may move down to 120 grit. I don't stay on one grit for long. I try and move back and forth so that I don't end up with deep scratch patterns from the lower grits. As far as the paper goes I was using all automotive paper but I recently found that the 3M purple sandpaper that Home Depot sells works great for the lower grits. I move to wet/dry paper once I am at 400 grit. I do most of this work with dry paper. I may get the last few grits a little damp with some water or mineral spirits. The following is the plane side after 400 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then after 800
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will have some areas that are low and just are not hitting the paper. I just hit these areas by hand with paper or sanding block. I also use a sanding block and paper on the top edge of the sides and around the front of the sole edge. Wear gloves and mask unless you want black hands and a nose full of metal dust.. It leaves a really bad taste in the back of your throat when you breath to much of it in.
> 
> The frog of the plane gets the same treatment however I try and get the face of the frog pretty flat. I remove the york adjustment thing to do this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I am done with the lapping and sanding I go over it with some polish. I have used a few different types of polish and they have all worked well. I do this by hand. I would assume a buffing wheel would work better but I don't own one. The polish I have in the picture I had bought for an Aluminum project but it said on the label that it worked on all metals. I tried it out and it worked really well so I have been using it on the planes. Check the automotive store and I am sure they will have a large selection of metal polish in all different price ranges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just keep buffing/polishing until you reach the point that you want to reach. Some pits, scratches and dings will be to deep to completely sand and buff out.
> 
> This does not take much time, even if the plane is in bad shape. It is messy though. I hope I covered enough. Pretty simple really.
> 
> Here is before and after of the Stanley #4


Thank you for the post. I just bought a new Veritas block plane. I think I went a little over zealous on the bottom of the plane. Left some scratches with the heavier grit water stones. Although right now my finest stone is 4000 grit. Seems functional and plenty sharp just doesn't look nearly as nice as yours.


----------



## Dcase

*Tip on replacing Stanley Bailey plane parts*

This is just a quick blog with a tip for other guys like me who like restoring old planes.

Sometimes you will run into a plane where you have a missing a small part such as a screw or bolt. You may also run into one where the part is stripped or damaged beyond repair. I see that there are a lot of people who sell these parts on ebay and sometimes the bidding price for the part is more then you paid for the plane.

I recently won an auction on ebay for a Wards Master plane. My bid winning bid was 0.99 cents. With shipping I only paid 11 dollars for the pnd lane. I was the only bidder and I assume its because its a Wards Master and not a Stanley. I got the plane and cleaned it up a bit and was surprised to see that it was almost an exact copy of the Stanley Bailey planes. The tote and knob bolts as well as the adjustment screw were both solid brass, identical to the brass hardware on the Stanley's. The frog was the same type as the later Stanley models and was an identical match to my Stanley frog when I compared them.

I actually needed some of these small parts so I cleaned them up and put them on my Stanley planes. I checked ebay again and found another Wards Master plane again with a very very low price. I bid on it and won that one also. That one also had solid brass hardware and was a clone of the Stanley planes.

I could turn around and sell just the brass parts on ebay and get more for those then what I paid for the planes.

I thought I would share this. Rather then buying just the parts you need, it may be cheaper to buy a whole plane like this and then you can have all the parts. Or even just fix the plane up and use it. Its no different the the Bailey planes and would make a great user for a fraction of the price.


----------



## canadianchips

Dcase said:


> *Tip on replacing Stanley Bailey plane parts*
> 
> This is just a quick blog with a tip for other guys like me who like restoring old planes.
> 
> Sometimes you will run into a plane where you have a missing a small part such as a screw or bolt. You may also run into one where the part is stripped or damaged beyond repair. I see that there are a lot of people who sell these parts on ebay and sometimes the bidding price for the part is more then you paid for the plane.
> 
> I recently won an auction on ebay for a Wards Master plane. My bid winning bid was 0.99 cents. With shipping I only paid 11 dollars for the pnd lane. I was the only bidder and I assume its because its a Wards Master and not a Stanley. I got the plane and cleaned it up a bit and was surprised to see that it was almost an exact copy of the Stanley Bailey planes. The tote and knob bolts as well as the adjustment screw were both solid brass, identical to the brass hardware on the Stanley's. The frog was the same type as the later Stanley models and was an identical match to my Stanley frog when I compared them.
> 
> I actually needed some of these small parts so I cleaned them up and put them on my Stanley planes. I checked ebay again and found another Wards Master plane again with a very very low price. I bid on it and won that one also. That one also had solid brass hardware and was a clone of the Stanley planes.
> 
> I could turn around and sell just the brass parts on ebay and get more for those then what I paid for the planes.
> 
> I thought I would share this. Rather then buying just the parts you need, it may be cheaper to buy a whole plane like this and then you can have all the parts. Or even just fix the plane up and use it. Its no different the the Bailey planes and would make a great user for a fraction of the price.


That a great concept , BUT, every time I found one for parts, I would think this just needs a knob or screw, so I would set it aside and look for another, then another ,then ?,well now I have many planes, some are complete and some are waiting for that "special piece".lol


----------



## Dennisgrosen

Dcase said:


> *Tip on replacing Stanley Bailey plane parts*
> 
> This is just a quick blog with a tip for other guys like me who like restoring old planes.
> 
> Sometimes you will run into a plane where you have a missing a small part such as a screw or bolt. You may also run into one where the part is stripped or damaged beyond repair. I see that there are a lot of people who sell these parts on ebay and sometimes the bidding price for the part is more then you paid for the plane.
> 
> I recently won an auction on ebay for a Wards Master plane. My bid winning bid was 0.99 cents. With shipping I only paid 11 dollars for the pnd lane. I was the only bidder and I assume its because its a Wards Master and not a Stanley. I got the plane and cleaned it up a bit and was surprised to see that it was almost an exact copy of the Stanley Bailey planes. The tote and knob bolts as well as the adjustment screw were both solid brass, identical to the brass hardware on the Stanley's. The frog was the same type as the later Stanley models and was an identical match to my Stanley frog when I compared them.
> 
> I actually needed some of these small parts so I cleaned them up and put them on my Stanley planes. I checked ebay again and found another Wards Master plane again with a very very low price. I bid on it and won that one also. That one also had solid brass hardware and was a clone of the Stanley planes.
> 
> I could turn around and sell just the brass parts on ebay and get more for those then what I paid for the planes.
> 
> I thought I would share this. Rather then buying just the parts you need, it may be cheaper to buy a whole plane like this and then you can have all the parts. Or even just fix the plane up and use it. Its no different the the Bailey planes and would make a great user for a fraction of the price.


thank´s for the tip Dan 

take care
Dennis


----------



## superdav721

Dcase said:


> *Tip on replacing Stanley Bailey plane parts*
> 
> This is just a quick blog with a tip for other guys like me who like restoring old planes.
> 
> Sometimes you will run into a plane where you have a missing a small part such as a screw or bolt. You may also run into one where the part is stripped or damaged beyond repair. I see that there are a lot of people who sell these parts on ebay and sometimes the bidding price for the part is more then you paid for the plane.
> 
> I recently won an auction on ebay for a Wards Master plane. My bid winning bid was 0.99 cents. With shipping I only paid 11 dollars for the pnd lane. I was the only bidder and I assume its because its a Wards Master and not a Stanley. I got the plane and cleaned it up a bit and was surprised to see that it was almost an exact copy of the Stanley Bailey planes. The tote and knob bolts as well as the adjustment screw were both solid brass, identical to the brass hardware on the Stanley's. The frog was the same type as the later Stanley models and was an identical match to my Stanley frog when I compared them.
> 
> I actually needed some of these small parts so I cleaned them up and put them on my Stanley planes. I checked ebay again and found another Wards Master plane again with a very very low price. I bid on it and won that one also. That one also had solid brass hardware and was a clone of the Stanley planes.
> 
> I could turn around and sell just the brass parts on ebay and get more for those then what I paid for the planes.
> 
> I thought I would share this. Rather then buying just the parts you need, it may be cheaper to buy a whole plane like this and then you can have all the parts. Or even just fix the plane up and use it. Its no different the the Bailey planes and would make a great user for a fraction of the price.


Great tip thx


----------



## carlosponti

Dcase said:


> *Tip on replacing Stanley Bailey plane parts*
> 
> This is just a quick blog with a tip for other guys like me who like restoring old planes.
> 
> Sometimes you will run into a plane where you have a missing a small part such as a screw or bolt. You may also run into one where the part is stripped or damaged beyond repair. I see that there are a lot of people who sell these parts on ebay and sometimes the bidding price for the part is more then you paid for the plane.
> 
> I recently won an auction on ebay for a Wards Master plane. My bid winning bid was 0.99 cents. With shipping I only paid 11 dollars for the pnd lane. I was the only bidder and I assume its because its a Wards Master and not a Stanley. I got the plane and cleaned it up a bit and was surprised to see that it was almost an exact copy of the Stanley Bailey planes. The tote and knob bolts as well as the adjustment screw were both solid brass, identical to the brass hardware on the Stanley's. The frog was the same type as the later Stanley models and was an identical match to my Stanley frog when I compared them.
> 
> I actually needed some of these small parts so I cleaned them up and put them on my Stanley planes. I checked ebay again and found another Wards Master plane again with a very very low price. I bid on it and won that one also. That one also had solid brass hardware and was a clone of the Stanley planes.
> 
> I could turn around and sell just the brass parts on ebay and get more for those then what I paid for the planes.
> 
> I thought I would share this. Rather then buying just the parts you need, it may be cheaper to buy a whole plane like this and then you can have all the parts. Or even just fix the plane up and use it. Its no different the the Bailey planes and would make a great user for a fraction of the price.


there is a reason the plane looks like a copy of the stanley most likely it is a stanley. stanley made planes for wards sears and older hardware chains that no longer exist like keen kutter branded planes from EC Simmons. Really only 4 major brands that existed after 1900 Union, Stanley, Millers Falls, and Sargent. Stanley eventually bought Sargent and Union so sometimes a plane that resembles a union or sargent of a later date will be a stanley made plane. Millers Falls made economy planes for hardware chains as well. the brand Dunlop in most cases are Millers Falls planes. planes are addictive, I started just getting planes for use and wound up getting addicted to history of them.


----------



## swirt

Dcase said:


> *Tip on replacing Stanley Bailey plane parts*
> 
> This is just a quick blog with a tip for other guys like me who like restoring old planes.
> 
> Sometimes you will run into a plane where you have a missing a small part such as a screw or bolt. You may also run into one where the part is stripped or damaged beyond repair. I see that there are a lot of people who sell these parts on ebay and sometimes the bidding price for the part is more then you paid for the plane.
> 
> I recently won an auction on ebay for a Wards Master plane. My bid winning bid was 0.99 cents. With shipping I only paid 11 dollars for the pnd lane. I was the only bidder and I assume its because its a Wards Master and not a Stanley. I got the plane and cleaned it up a bit and was surprised to see that it was almost an exact copy of the Stanley Bailey planes. The tote and knob bolts as well as the adjustment screw were both solid brass, identical to the brass hardware on the Stanley's. The frog was the same type as the later Stanley models and was an identical match to my Stanley frog when I compared them.
> 
> I actually needed some of these small parts so I cleaned them up and put them on my Stanley planes. I checked ebay again and found another Wards Master plane again with a very very low price. I bid on it and won that one also. That one also had solid brass hardware and was a clone of the Stanley planes.
> 
> I could turn around and sell just the brass parts on ebay and get more for those then what I paid for the planes.
> 
> I thought I would share this. Rather then buying just the parts you need, it may be cheaper to buy a whole plane like this and then you can have all the parts. Or even just fix the plane up and use it. Its no different the the Bailey planes and would make a great user for a fraction of the price.


Great tip Dan, and thanks for the extra info Joe.

Canadian Chips is right on, I bought an old wooden fore plane that was busted out on the side and at the time I considered it unrepairable. I only paid $4 for it and I got ot for my son (1 yr old at the time) to play with as a toy. It was too big for my son so I cut the nose off it to make it lighter and get rid of the sharp protruding wood spears. Now I can't tell you how many times I look at that plane think ohh all it needs is a little bit of…..X Y and Z and I could get it back up and running. It nags at me because it has the most comfortable tote of any plane I've held. I bought a saw once just for the saw nuts, and now I can't bring myself to sacrifice it.


----------



## Bertha

Dcase said:


> *Tip on replacing Stanley Bailey plane parts*
> 
> This is just a quick blog with a tip for other guys like me who like restoring old planes.
> 
> Sometimes you will run into a plane where you have a missing a small part such as a screw or bolt. You may also run into one where the part is stripped or damaged beyond repair. I see that there are a lot of people who sell these parts on ebay and sometimes the bidding price for the part is more then you paid for the plane.
> 
> I recently won an auction on ebay for a Wards Master plane. My bid winning bid was 0.99 cents. With shipping I only paid 11 dollars for the pnd lane. I was the only bidder and I assume its because its a Wards Master and not a Stanley. I got the plane and cleaned it up a bit and was surprised to see that it was almost an exact copy of the Stanley Bailey planes. The tote and knob bolts as well as the adjustment screw were both solid brass, identical to the brass hardware on the Stanley's. The frog was the same type as the later Stanley models and was an identical match to my Stanley frog when I compared them.
> 
> I actually needed some of these small parts so I cleaned them up and put them on my Stanley planes. I checked ebay again and found another Wards Master plane again with a very very low price. I bid on it and won that one also. That one also had solid brass hardware and was a clone of the Stanley planes.
> 
> I could turn around and sell just the brass parts on ebay and get more for those then what I paid for the planes.
> 
> I thought I would share this. Rather then buying just the parts you need, it may be cheaper to buy a whole plane like this and then you can have all the parts. Or even just fix the plane up and use it. Its no different the the Bailey planes and would make a great user for a fraction of the price.


You can also cut the off-brand blades down for molding plane blades, etc. There's always something good in an old plane.


----------



## planepassion

Dcase said:


> *Tip on replacing Stanley Bailey plane parts*
> 
> This is just a quick blog with a tip for other guys like me who like restoring old planes.
> 
> Sometimes you will run into a plane where you have a missing a small part such as a screw or bolt. You may also run into one where the part is stripped or damaged beyond repair. I see that there are a lot of people who sell these parts on ebay and sometimes the bidding price for the part is more then you paid for the plane.
> 
> I recently won an auction on ebay for a Wards Master plane. My bid winning bid was 0.99 cents. With shipping I only paid 11 dollars for the pnd lane. I was the only bidder and I assume its because its a Wards Master and not a Stanley. I got the plane and cleaned it up a bit and was surprised to see that it was almost an exact copy of the Stanley Bailey planes. The tote and knob bolts as well as the adjustment screw were both solid brass, identical to the brass hardware on the Stanley's. The frog was the same type as the later Stanley models and was an identical match to my Stanley frog when I compared them.
> 
> I actually needed some of these small parts so I cleaned them up and put them on my Stanley planes. I checked ebay again and found another Wards Master plane again with a very very low price. I bid on it and won that one also. That one also had solid brass hardware and was a clone of the Stanley planes.
> 
> I could turn around and sell just the brass parts on ebay and get more for those then what I paid for the planes.
> 
> I thought I would share this. Rather then buying just the parts you need, it may be cheaper to buy a whole plane like this and then you can have all the parts. Or even just fix the plane up and use it. Its no different the the Bailey planes and would make a great user for a fraction of the price.


I've had good luck sourcing replacement Stanley plane parts from http://www.stjamesbaytoolco.com/. Home>Tools>stanley Reproduction Replacement Parts. I got a depth adjustment thumb screw to replace the crappy user-installed screw on my #78 among other parts.

I'm amazed by the selection of parts. And knowing that I can source a part helps me in bidding on Ebay. Gee, that plane would be great if it didn't need X,Y and Z. But I could get those from St James for $x.00, so I should bid $y.00.

The advantage this approach has is that you don't have a surplus of plane bodies littering the workshop. And best of all, you don't feel guilty about canabalizing a vintage tool for parts.


----------



## Dunnester

Dcase said:


> *Tip on replacing Stanley Bailey plane parts*
> 
> This is just a quick blog with a tip for other guys like me who like restoring old planes.
> 
> Sometimes you will run into a plane where you have a missing a small part such as a screw or bolt. You may also run into one where the part is stripped or damaged beyond repair. I see that there are a lot of people who sell these parts on ebay and sometimes the bidding price for the part is more then you paid for the plane.
> 
> I recently won an auction on ebay for a Wards Master plane. My bid winning bid was 0.99 cents. With shipping I only paid 11 dollars for the pnd lane. I was the only bidder and I assume its because its a Wards Master and not a Stanley. I got the plane and cleaned it up a bit and was surprised to see that it was almost an exact copy of the Stanley Bailey planes. The tote and knob bolts as well as the adjustment screw were both solid brass, identical to the brass hardware on the Stanley's. The frog was the same type as the later Stanley models and was an identical match to my Stanley frog when I compared them.
> 
> I actually needed some of these small parts so I cleaned them up and put them on my Stanley planes. I checked ebay again and found another Wards Master plane again with a very very low price. I bid on it and won that one also. That one also had solid brass hardware and was a clone of the Stanley planes.
> 
> I could turn around and sell just the brass parts on ebay and get more for those then what I paid for the planes.
> 
> I thought I would share this. Rather then buying just the parts you need, it may be cheaper to buy a whole plane like this and then you can have all the parts. Or even just fix the plane up and use it. Its no different the the Bailey planes and would make a great user for a fraction of the price.


Brad, Thanks for the info on St Jamesbay tool co.


----------



## Dunnester

Dcase said:


> *Tip on replacing Stanley Bailey plane parts*
> 
> This is just a quick blog with a tip for other guys like me who like restoring old planes.
> 
> Sometimes you will run into a plane where you have a missing a small part such as a screw or bolt. You may also run into one where the part is stripped or damaged beyond repair. I see that there are a lot of people who sell these parts on ebay and sometimes the bidding price for the part is more then you paid for the plane.
> 
> I recently won an auction on ebay for a Wards Master plane. My bid winning bid was 0.99 cents. With shipping I only paid 11 dollars for the pnd lane. I was the only bidder and I assume its because its a Wards Master and not a Stanley. I got the plane and cleaned it up a bit and was surprised to see that it was almost an exact copy of the Stanley Bailey planes. The tote and knob bolts as well as the adjustment screw were both solid brass, identical to the brass hardware on the Stanley's. The frog was the same type as the later Stanley models and was an identical match to my Stanley frog when I compared them.
> 
> I actually needed some of these small parts so I cleaned them up and put them on my Stanley planes. I checked ebay again and found another Wards Master plane again with a very very low price. I bid on it and won that one also. That one also had solid brass hardware and was a clone of the Stanley planes.
> 
> I could turn around and sell just the brass parts on ebay and get more for those then what I paid for the planes.
> 
> I thought I would share this. Rather then buying just the parts you need, it may be cheaper to buy a whole plane like this and then you can have all the parts. Or even just fix the plane up and use it. Its no different the the Bailey planes and would make a great user for a fraction of the price.


I guess it seems like I am not the only one hooked on restoring hand planes . I did one good thing I guess and kind of limited myself by zoning in on corrugated planes. But like someone mentioned I now have a couple of boxes with odd parts. My hobby has become sort of a job. Anyone have any suggestions on place to look for restoration parts that are somewhat reasonable, i would appreciate it.


----------



## rhspeer

Dcase said:


> *Tip on replacing Stanley Bailey plane parts*
> 
> This is just a quick blog with a tip for other guys like me who like restoring old planes.
> 
> Sometimes you will run into a plane where you have a missing a small part such as a screw or bolt. You may also run into one where the part is stripped or damaged beyond repair. I see that there are a lot of people who sell these parts on ebay and sometimes the bidding price for the part is more then you paid for the plane.
> 
> I recently won an auction on ebay for a Wards Master plane. My bid winning bid was 0.99 cents. With shipping I only paid 11 dollars for the pnd lane. I was the only bidder and I assume its because its a Wards Master and not a Stanley. I got the plane and cleaned it up a bit and was surprised to see that it was almost an exact copy of the Stanley Bailey planes. The tote and knob bolts as well as the adjustment screw were both solid brass, identical to the brass hardware on the Stanley's. The frog was the same type as the later Stanley models and was an identical match to my Stanley frog when I compared them.
> 
> I actually needed some of these small parts so I cleaned them up and put them on my Stanley planes. I checked ebay again and found another Wards Master plane again with a very very low price. I bid on it and won that one also. That one also had solid brass hardware and was a clone of the Stanley planes.
> 
> I could turn around and sell just the brass parts on ebay and get more for those then what I paid for the planes.
> 
> I thought I would share this. Rather then buying just the parts you need, it may be cheaper to buy a whole plane like this and then you can have all the parts. Or even just fix the plane up and use it. Its no different the the Bailey planes and would make a great user for a fraction of the price.


Thanks, just fixed my 5 1/2 bailey with a broken knock off.


----------



## Dcase

*Stanley Bailey #6 complete restore w pics!*

After many weeks of hunting and bidding on Ebay I was finally able to win an auction for a Stanley #6 at a decent price. The #6 planes usually sell somewhere around the 50 dollar range and I got this one for 38 dollars. My goal is to someday have the whole set of Stanley bench planes #1 through #8. I am only 3 shy of my goal excluding the 4 1/2, 5 1/4 and 5 1/2. I still need 1, 2 and 8. I don't see 1 or 2 ending up in my collection anytime soon but the hunt is on for the #8! Stay tuned!

The #6 I got was in really good shape so it wasn't to hard of a restore. The most time consuming part was the sole. It is actually a 6C so it has groves on the bottom. The groves were pretty clogged up with dirt. I used my Dremmel tool with wire brush to get most of it out and then did the rest by hand with tooth brush and Q-tips.

For this plane I tried something new for the wood knob and tote. I had been sanding the handles starting with 180 grit and working up to 800 grit. It was a lot of work and I noticed the Rosewood turning a really dark almost black like color after applying a finish. With this planes Rosewood I eliminated sand paper and used abrasive pads only. I started with the green abrasive pad followed by the silver then finished with the white which is very fine. I didn't spend nearly as much time as I did when I used sand paper and I am a lot happier with the results.

The before pictures were taken with my cell phone so they are not all that great. I don't have a nice shaving picture yet as I am still working on the blade. 































































I should have some more stuff up soon. I am currently working on a few planes which have been a ton of fun for me to work on so far. I am completely restoring a #45 combination plane as well as a #48 T&G plane. There is so much detail in the bodies of these planes that cleaning them has been a real challenge. I hope to have them finished soon.

Thanks for looking!


----------



## Bertha

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #6 complete restore w pics!*
> 
> After many weeks of hunting and bidding on Ebay I was finally able to win an auction for a Stanley #6 at a decent price. The #6 planes usually sell somewhere around the 50 dollar range and I got this one for 38 dollars. My goal is to someday have the whole set of Stanley bench planes #1 through #8. I am only 3 shy of my goal excluding the 4 1/2, 5 1/4 and 5 1/2. I still need 1, 2 and 8. I don't see 1 or 2 ending up in my collection anytime soon but the hunt is on for the #8! Stay tuned!
> 
> The #6 I got was in really good shape so it wasn't to hard of a restore. The most time consuming part was the sole. It is actually a 6C so it has groves on the bottom. The groves were pretty clogged up with dirt. I used my Dremmel tool with wire brush to get most of it out and then did the rest by hand with tooth brush and Q-tips.
> 
> For this plane I tried something new for the wood knob and tote. I had been sanding the handles starting with 180 grit and working up to 800 grit. It was a lot of work and I noticed the Rosewood turning a really dark almost black like color after applying a finish. With this planes Rosewood I eliminated sand paper and used abrasive pads only. I started with the green abrasive pad followed by the silver then finished with the white which is very fine. I didn't spend nearly as much time as I did when I used sand paper and I am a lot happier with the results.
> 
> The before pictures were taken with my cell phone so they are not all that great. I don't have a nice shaving picture yet as I am still working on the blade.
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> I should have some more stuff up soon. I am currently working on a few planes which have been a ton of fun for me to work on so far. I am completely restoring a #45 combination plane as well as a #48 T&G plane. There is so much detail in the bodies of these planes that cleaning them has been a real challenge. I hope to have them finished soon.
> 
> Thanks for looking!


She's a beauty & the frog looks fantastic. The #6 is an oft forgotten plane & one of my favorites. I have no doubt that you'll love this plane.


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## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #6 complete restore w pics!*
> 
> After many weeks of hunting and bidding on Ebay I was finally able to win an auction for a Stanley #6 at a decent price. The #6 planes usually sell somewhere around the 50 dollar range and I got this one for 38 dollars. My goal is to someday have the whole set of Stanley bench planes #1 through #8. I am only 3 shy of my goal excluding the 4 1/2, 5 1/4 and 5 1/2. I still need 1, 2 and 8. I don't see 1 or 2 ending up in my collection anytime soon but the hunt is on for the #8! Stay tuned!
> 
> The #6 I got was in really good shape so it wasn't to hard of a restore. The most time consuming part was the sole. It is actually a 6C so it has groves on the bottom. The groves were pretty clogged up with dirt. I used my Dremmel tool with wire brush to get most of it out and then did the rest by hand with tooth brush and Q-tips.
> 
> For this plane I tried something new for the wood knob and tote. I had been sanding the handles starting with 180 grit and working up to 800 grit. It was a lot of work and I noticed the Rosewood turning a really dark almost black like color after applying a finish. With this planes Rosewood I eliminated sand paper and used abrasive pads only. I started with the green abrasive pad followed by the silver then finished with the white which is very fine. I didn't spend nearly as much time as I did when I used sand paper and I am a lot happier with the results.
> 
> The before pictures were taken with my cell phone so they are not all that great. I don't have a nice shaving picture yet as I am still working on the blade.
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> I should have some more stuff up soon. I am currently working on a few planes which have been a ton of fun for me to work on so far. I am completely restoring a #45 combination plane as well as a #48 T&G plane. There is so much detail in the bodies of these planes that cleaning them has been a real challenge. I hope to have them finished soon.
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Al, I couldn't agree more. After restoring this plane I now consider it my favorite. I think I will get a lot of use out of this plane as a jointer for smaller boards. I use the #7 now but it tires me out quickly and the #5 just doesn't seem big enough. The weight of the #6 feels perfect and the wide blade is nice.

I spent a lot of time on the frog. The middle was humped out so it took a lot to get it flat. Its not perfect as you can see in the pictures the very top is still off but I don't think that will effect it at all.


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## swirt

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #6 complete restore w pics!*
> 
> After many weeks of hunting and bidding on Ebay I was finally able to win an auction for a Stanley #6 at a decent price. The #6 planes usually sell somewhere around the 50 dollar range and I got this one for 38 dollars. My goal is to someday have the whole set of Stanley bench planes #1 through #8. I am only 3 shy of my goal excluding the 4 1/2, 5 1/4 and 5 1/2. I still need 1, 2 and 8. I don't see 1 or 2 ending up in my collection anytime soon but the hunt is on for the #8! Stay tuned!
> 
> The #6 I got was in really good shape so it wasn't to hard of a restore. The most time consuming part was the sole. It is actually a 6C so it has groves on the bottom. The groves were pretty clogged up with dirt. I used my Dremmel tool with wire brush to get most of it out and then did the rest by hand with tooth brush and Q-tips.
> 
> For this plane I tried something new for the wood knob and tote. I had been sanding the handles starting with 180 grit and working up to 800 grit. It was a lot of work and I noticed the Rosewood turning a really dark almost black like color after applying a finish. With this planes Rosewood I eliminated sand paper and used abrasive pads only. I started with the green abrasive pad followed by the silver then finished with the white which is very fine. I didn't spend nearly as much time as I did when I used sand paper and I am a lot happier with the results.
> 
> The before pictures were taken with my cell phone so they are not all that great. I don't have a nice shaving picture yet as I am still working on the blade.
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> I should have some more stuff up soon. I am currently working on a few planes which have been a ton of fun for me to work on so far. I am completely restoring a #45 combination plane as well as a #48 T&G plane. There is so much detail in the bodies of these planes that cleaning them has been a real challenge. I hope to have them finished soon.
> 
> Thanks for looking!


WOW! That Frog is amazing.. I swear I could almost see my reflection in the photo  Nice restore. Interesting note about the abbrasive pad. What do you think there is about the sandpaper that causes the darkening?


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## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #6 complete restore w pics!*
> 
> After many weeks of hunting and bidding on Ebay I was finally able to win an auction for a Stanley #6 at a decent price. The #6 planes usually sell somewhere around the 50 dollar range and I got this one for 38 dollars. My goal is to someday have the whole set of Stanley bench planes #1 through #8. I am only 3 shy of my goal excluding the 4 1/2, 5 1/4 and 5 1/2. I still need 1, 2 and 8. I don't see 1 or 2 ending up in my collection anytime soon but the hunt is on for the #8! Stay tuned!
> 
> The #6 I got was in really good shape so it wasn't to hard of a restore. The most time consuming part was the sole. It is actually a 6C so it has groves on the bottom. The groves were pretty clogged up with dirt. I used my Dremmel tool with wire brush to get most of it out and then did the rest by hand with tooth brush and Q-tips.
> 
> For this plane I tried something new for the wood knob and tote. I had been sanding the handles starting with 180 grit and working up to 800 grit. It was a lot of work and I noticed the Rosewood turning a really dark almost black like color after applying a finish. With this planes Rosewood I eliminated sand paper and used abrasive pads only. I started with the green abrasive pad followed by the silver then finished with the white which is very fine. I didn't spend nearly as much time as I did when I used sand paper and I am a lot happier with the results.
> 
> The before pictures were taken with my cell phone so they are not all that great. I don't have a nice shaving picture yet as I am still working on the blade.
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> I should have some more stuff up soon. I am currently working on a few planes which have been a ton of fun for me to work on so far. I am completely restoring a #45 combination plane as well as a #48 T&G plane. There is so much detail in the bodies of these planes that cleaning them has been a real challenge. I hope to have them finished soon.
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Swirt - I am not sure what causes the darkening. I read on a website of someone else who restores planes that he had the same problem with the sand paper and he said the lower grit and excessive sanding caused the wood to appear almost black when finished. I have never worked with Rosewood other then on the plane handles so I don't know enough about it. Some of my other planes handles or knobs are very dark though. I have used different finishes too and it didn't make a difference.

After doing both ways I highly recommend using the abrasive pads rather then sand paper. If its in real bad shape you will probably have to sand it but if your just looking to clean it up and not get every little scratch and dent out then the abrasives is the way to go.

HOWEVER if your are working on a plane with a stained hardwood handle or knob then I suggest sanding it starting at 100 or 120 to strip the old stain finish off. The pads wont work well for stained wood.


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## Dwain

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #6 complete restore w pics!*
> 
> After many weeks of hunting and bidding on Ebay I was finally able to win an auction for a Stanley #6 at a decent price. The #6 planes usually sell somewhere around the 50 dollar range and I got this one for 38 dollars. My goal is to someday have the whole set of Stanley bench planes #1 through #8. I am only 3 shy of my goal excluding the 4 1/2, 5 1/4 and 5 1/2. I still need 1, 2 and 8. I don't see 1 or 2 ending up in my collection anytime soon but the hunt is on for the #8! Stay tuned!
> 
> The #6 I got was in really good shape so it wasn't to hard of a restore. The most time consuming part was the sole. It is actually a 6C so it has groves on the bottom. The groves were pretty clogged up with dirt. I used my Dremmel tool with wire brush to get most of it out and then did the rest by hand with tooth brush and Q-tips.
> 
> For this plane I tried something new for the wood knob and tote. I had been sanding the handles starting with 180 grit and working up to 800 grit. It was a lot of work and I noticed the Rosewood turning a really dark almost black like color after applying a finish. With this planes Rosewood I eliminated sand paper and used abrasive pads only. I started with the green abrasive pad followed by the silver then finished with the white which is very fine. I didn't spend nearly as much time as I did when I used sand paper and I am a lot happier with the results.
> 
> The before pictures were taken with my cell phone so they are not all that great. I don't have a nice shaving picture yet as I am still working on the blade.
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> I should have some more stuff up soon. I am currently working on a few planes which have been a ton of fun for me to work on so far. I am completely restoring a #45 combination plane as well as a #48 T&G plane. There is so much detail in the bodies of these planes that cleaning them has been a real challenge. I hope to have them finished soon.
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Looks great Dan, I would really like to know what you go through in your process. I know everyone is different, but I am curious. I have cleaned several planes, but have never gone through the lapping and painting processes. I tend to take the frog and lap it on sand paper on a granite tile. Please share what gives you these great results…


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## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #6 complete restore w pics!*
> 
> After many weeks of hunting and bidding on Ebay I was finally able to win an auction for a Stanley #6 at a decent price. The #6 planes usually sell somewhere around the 50 dollar range and I got this one for 38 dollars. My goal is to someday have the whole set of Stanley bench planes #1 through #8. I am only 3 shy of my goal excluding the 4 1/2, 5 1/4 and 5 1/2. I still need 1, 2 and 8. I don't see 1 or 2 ending up in my collection anytime soon but the hunt is on for the #8! Stay tuned!
> 
> The #6 I got was in really good shape so it wasn't to hard of a restore. The most time consuming part was the sole. It is actually a 6C so it has groves on the bottom. The groves were pretty clogged up with dirt. I used my Dremmel tool with wire brush to get most of it out and then did the rest by hand with tooth brush and Q-tips.
> 
> For this plane I tried something new for the wood knob and tote. I had been sanding the handles starting with 180 grit and working up to 800 grit. It was a lot of work and I noticed the Rosewood turning a really dark almost black like color after applying a finish. With this planes Rosewood I eliminated sand paper and used abrasive pads only. I started with the green abrasive pad followed by the silver then finished with the white which is very fine. I didn't spend nearly as much time as I did when I used sand paper and I am a lot happier with the results.
> 
> The before pictures were taken with my cell phone so they are not all that great. I don't have a nice shaving picture yet as I am still working on the blade.
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> I should have some more stuff up soon. I am currently working on a few planes which have been a ton of fun for me to work on so far. I am completely restoring a #45 combination plane as well as a #48 T&G plane. There is so much detail in the bodies of these planes that cleaning them has been a real challenge. I hope to have them finished soon.
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Dwain - If you look at my previous blogs in this series I do go through the process in which I restore the planes. You should be able to find my past blogs by going to my profile page. You got it right with the frog just do the same thing with the bottom of the plane. I also lap the sides which cleans them up pretty fast. I don't always lap the sides to be perfectly flat but more to just get the dirt/rust off. Once the sides are pretty clean of dirt/rust I then just go over them by hand with fine grit sand paper up to 2000 grit.

Stripping the old finish and repainting the planes is the hardest part IMO. One of my previous blogs I talk about how I do that. I did change one thing about the painting. I now spray paint the planes with low gloss engine enamel. After a few coats I rub it down with a fine abrasive pad to smooth it out.


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## Bertha

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #6 complete restore w pics!*
> 
> After many weeks of hunting and bidding on Ebay I was finally able to win an auction for a Stanley #6 at a decent price. The #6 planes usually sell somewhere around the 50 dollar range and I got this one for 38 dollars. My goal is to someday have the whole set of Stanley bench planes #1 through #8. I am only 3 shy of my goal excluding the 4 1/2, 5 1/4 and 5 1/2. I still need 1, 2 and 8. I don't see 1 or 2 ending up in my collection anytime soon but the hunt is on for the #8! Stay tuned!
> 
> The #6 I got was in really good shape so it wasn't to hard of a restore. The most time consuming part was the sole. It is actually a 6C so it has groves on the bottom. The groves were pretty clogged up with dirt. I used my Dremmel tool with wire brush to get most of it out and then did the rest by hand with tooth brush and Q-tips.
> 
> For this plane I tried something new for the wood knob and tote. I had been sanding the handles starting with 180 grit and working up to 800 grit. It was a lot of work and I noticed the Rosewood turning a really dark almost black like color after applying a finish. With this planes Rosewood I eliminated sand paper and used abrasive pads only. I started with the green abrasive pad followed by the silver then finished with the white which is very fine. I didn't spend nearly as much time as I did when I used sand paper and I am a lot happier with the results.
> 
> The before pictures were taken with my cell phone so they are not all that great. I don't have a nice shaving picture yet as I am still working on the blade.
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> I should have some more stuff up soon. I am currently working on a few planes which have been a ton of fun for me to work on so far. I am completely restoring a #45 combination plane as well as a #48 T&G plane. There is so much detail in the bodies of these planes that cleaning them has been a real challenge. I hope to have them finished soon.
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Dan, I agree with you. The fore is the perfect blend of heft and width for me. Anything the #5 can do, the #6 seems to do a bit better. For jointing, I've got the #8 & #7 but I've had good success using the #6. I love that they can be had for such a good price. I'm tempted to amass a pile of them before they're "discovered". You're only going to fall MORE in love with this plane.


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## woodspark

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #6 complete restore w pics!*
> 
> After many weeks of hunting and bidding on Ebay I was finally able to win an auction for a Stanley #6 at a decent price. The #6 planes usually sell somewhere around the 50 dollar range and I got this one for 38 dollars. My goal is to someday have the whole set of Stanley bench planes #1 through #8. I am only 3 shy of my goal excluding the 4 1/2, 5 1/4 and 5 1/2. I still need 1, 2 and 8. I don't see 1 or 2 ending up in my collection anytime soon but the hunt is on for the #8! Stay tuned!
> 
> The #6 I got was in really good shape so it wasn't to hard of a restore. The most time consuming part was the sole. It is actually a 6C so it has groves on the bottom. The groves were pretty clogged up with dirt. I used my Dremmel tool with wire brush to get most of it out and then did the rest by hand with tooth brush and Q-tips.
> 
> For this plane I tried something new for the wood knob and tote. I had been sanding the handles starting with 180 grit and working up to 800 grit. It was a lot of work and I noticed the Rosewood turning a really dark almost black like color after applying a finish. With this planes Rosewood I eliminated sand paper and used abrasive pads only. I started with the green abrasive pad followed by the silver then finished with the white which is very fine. I didn't spend nearly as much time as I did when I used sand paper and I am a lot happier with the results.
> 
> The before pictures were taken with my cell phone so they are not all that great. I don't have a nice shaving picture yet as I am still working on the blade.
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> I should have some more stuff up soon. I am currently working on a few planes which have been a ton of fun for me to work on so far. I am completely restoring a #45 combination plane as well as a #48 T&G plane. There is so much detail in the bodies of these planes that cleaning them has been a real challenge. I hope to have them finished soon.
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Looking mighty good Dan! Don't you want to come and visit me, I have quite a few that will love this kind of TLC!


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## Bertha

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #6 complete restore w pics!*
> 
> After many weeks of hunting and bidding on Ebay I was finally able to win an auction for a Stanley #6 at a decent price. The #6 planes usually sell somewhere around the 50 dollar range and I got this one for 38 dollars. My goal is to someday have the whole set of Stanley bench planes #1 through #8. I am only 3 shy of my goal excluding the 4 1/2, 5 1/4 and 5 1/2. I still need 1, 2 and 8. I don't see 1 or 2 ending up in my collection anytime soon but the hunt is on for the #8! Stay tuned!
> 
> The #6 I got was in really good shape so it wasn't to hard of a restore. The most time consuming part was the sole. It is actually a 6C so it has groves on the bottom. The groves were pretty clogged up with dirt. I used my Dremmel tool with wire brush to get most of it out and then did the rest by hand with tooth brush and Q-tips.
> 
> For this plane I tried something new for the wood knob and tote. I had been sanding the handles starting with 180 grit and working up to 800 grit. It was a lot of work and I noticed the Rosewood turning a really dark almost black like color after applying a finish. With this planes Rosewood I eliminated sand paper and used abrasive pads only. I started with the green abrasive pad followed by the silver then finished with the white which is very fine. I didn't spend nearly as much time as I did when I used sand paper and I am a lot happier with the results.
> 
> The before pictures were taken with my cell phone so they are not all that great. I don't have a nice shaving picture yet as I am still working on the blade.
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> I should have some more stuff up soon. I am currently working on a few planes which have been a ton of fun for me to work on so far. I am completely restoring a #45 combination plane as well as a #48 T&G plane. There is so much detail in the bodies of these planes that cleaning them has been a real challenge. I hope to have them finished soon.
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Div, I'll meet you there. I've got about 15 planes (last time I checked) that were in various states of rehab. Dan did such a nice job with this plane, he'll probably want some more practice, right?


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## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #6 complete restore w pics!*
> 
> After many weeks of hunting and bidding on Ebay I was finally able to win an auction for a Stanley #6 at a decent price. The #6 planes usually sell somewhere around the 50 dollar range and I got this one for 38 dollars. My goal is to someday have the whole set of Stanley bench planes #1 through #8. I am only 3 shy of my goal excluding the 4 1/2, 5 1/4 and 5 1/2. I still need 1, 2 and 8. I don't see 1 or 2 ending up in my collection anytime soon but the hunt is on for the #8! Stay tuned!
> 
> The #6 I got was in really good shape so it wasn't to hard of a restore. The most time consuming part was the sole. It is actually a 6C so it has groves on the bottom. The groves were pretty clogged up with dirt. I used my Dremmel tool with wire brush to get most of it out and then did the rest by hand with tooth brush and Q-tips.
> 
> For this plane I tried something new for the wood knob and tote. I had been sanding the handles starting with 180 grit and working up to 800 grit. It was a lot of work and I noticed the Rosewood turning a really dark almost black like color after applying a finish. With this planes Rosewood I eliminated sand paper and used abrasive pads only. I started with the green abrasive pad followed by the silver then finished with the white which is very fine. I didn't spend nearly as much time as I did when I used sand paper and I am a lot happier with the results.
> 
> The before pictures were taken with my cell phone so they are not all that great. I don't have a nice shaving picture yet as I am still working on the blade.
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> I should have some more stuff up soon. I am currently working on a few planes which have been a ton of fun for me to work on so far. I am completely restoring a #45 combination plane as well as a #48 T&G plane. There is so much detail in the bodies of these planes that cleaning them has been a real challenge. I hope to have them finished soon.
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Div- Funny you should say that. I enjoy restoring these old tools so much that I have been thinking of setting up side business to restore these for people. Of all the restoration pages I have been to I don't recall seeing any that offered the service for others. They only sold ones they did.

I would actually be more then happy to restore and refinish planes for people. I am pretty fast at it now and I have calculated my time and materials and I can do it for a really good and affordable price. If you are interested at all send me a msg and we can work something out.


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## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #6 complete restore w pics!*
> 
> After many weeks of hunting and bidding on Ebay I was finally able to win an auction for a Stanley #6 at a decent price. The #6 planes usually sell somewhere around the 50 dollar range and I got this one for 38 dollars. My goal is to someday have the whole set of Stanley bench planes #1 through #8. I am only 3 shy of my goal excluding the 4 1/2, 5 1/4 and 5 1/2. I still need 1, 2 and 8. I don't see 1 or 2 ending up in my collection anytime soon but the hunt is on for the #8! Stay tuned!
> 
> The #6 I got was in really good shape so it wasn't to hard of a restore. The most time consuming part was the sole. It is actually a 6C so it has groves on the bottom. The groves were pretty clogged up with dirt. I used my Dremmel tool with wire brush to get most of it out and then did the rest by hand with tooth brush and Q-tips.
> 
> For this plane I tried something new for the wood knob and tote. I had been sanding the handles starting with 180 grit and working up to 800 grit. It was a lot of work and I noticed the Rosewood turning a really dark almost black like color after applying a finish. With this planes Rosewood I eliminated sand paper and used abrasive pads only. I started with the green abrasive pad followed by the silver then finished with the white which is very fine. I didn't spend nearly as much time as I did when I used sand paper and I am a lot happier with the results.
> 
> The before pictures were taken with my cell phone so they are not all that great. I don't have a nice shaving picture yet as I am still working on the blade.
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> I should have some more stuff up soon. I am currently working on a few planes which have been a ton of fun for me to work on so far. I am completely restoring a #45 combination plane as well as a #48 T&G plane. There is so much detail in the bodies of these planes that cleaning them has been a real challenge. I hope to have them finished soon.
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Al - Same goes to you. I would actually love to restore some planes for other people. If your interested send me a msg. I think I have a really good price figured out to do the work. You would just have to ship the plane to me I restore it and ship it back.


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## Bertha

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #6 complete restore w pics!*
> 
> After many weeks of hunting and bidding on Ebay I was finally able to win an auction for a Stanley #6 at a decent price. The #6 planes usually sell somewhere around the 50 dollar range and I got this one for 38 dollars. My goal is to someday have the whole set of Stanley bench planes #1 through #8. I am only 3 shy of my goal excluding the 4 1/2, 5 1/4 and 5 1/2. I still need 1, 2 and 8. I don't see 1 or 2 ending up in my collection anytime soon but the hunt is on for the #8! Stay tuned!
> 
> The #6 I got was in really good shape so it wasn't to hard of a restore. The most time consuming part was the sole. It is actually a 6C so it has groves on the bottom. The groves were pretty clogged up with dirt. I used my Dremmel tool with wire brush to get most of it out and then did the rest by hand with tooth brush and Q-tips.
> 
> For this plane I tried something new for the wood knob and tote. I had been sanding the handles starting with 180 grit and working up to 800 grit. It was a lot of work and I noticed the Rosewood turning a really dark almost black like color after applying a finish. With this planes Rosewood I eliminated sand paper and used abrasive pads only. I started with the green abrasive pad followed by the silver then finished with the white which is very fine. I didn't spend nearly as much time as I did when I used sand paper and I am a lot happier with the results.
> 
> The before pictures were taken with my cell phone so they are not all that great. I don't have a nice shaving picture yet as I am still working on the blade.
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> I should have some more stuff up soon. I am currently working on a few planes which have been a ton of fun for me to work on so far. I am completely restoring a #45 combination plane as well as a #48 T&G plane. There is so much detail in the bodies of these planes that cleaning them has been a real challenge. I hope to have them finished soon.
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Someone posted a price list for plane restoration recently. It was reasonably expensive but worth every single penny, no doubt about it. I'm like you, Dan, enjoying the process. I'm not ready to farm out my rehabs but I'm not volunteering to do others either! Good luck with this pursuit; I'm sure you'll find takers.


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## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #6 complete restore w pics!*
> 
> After many weeks of hunting and bidding on Ebay I was finally able to win an auction for a Stanley #6 at a decent price. The #6 planes usually sell somewhere around the 50 dollar range and I got this one for 38 dollars. My goal is to someday have the whole set of Stanley bench planes #1 through #8. I am only 3 shy of my goal excluding the 4 1/2, 5 1/4 and 5 1/2. I still need 1, 2 and 8. I don't see 1 or 2 ending up in my collection anytime soon but the hunt is on for the #8! Stay tuned!
> 
> The #6 I got was in really good shape so it wasn't to hard of a restore. The most time consuming part was the sole. It is actually a 6C so it has groves on the bottom. The groves were pretty clogged up with dirt. I used my Dremmel tool with wire brush to get most of it out and then did the rest by hand with tooth brush and Q-tips.
> 
> For this plane I tried something new for the wood knob and tote. I had been sanding the handles starting with 180 grit and working up to 800 grit. It was a lot of work and I noticed the Rosewood turning a really dark almost black like color after applying a finish. With this planes Rosewood I eliminated sand paper and used abrasive pads only. I started with the green abrasive pad followed by the silver then finished with the white which is very fine. I didn't spend nearly as much time as I did when I used sand paper and I am a lot happier with the results.
> 
> The before pictures were taken with my cell phone so they are not all that great. I don't have a nice shaving picture yet as I am still working on the blade.
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> I should have some more stuff up soon. I am currently working on a few planes which have been a ton of fun for me to work on so far. I am completely restoring a #45 combination plane as well as a #48 T&G plane. There is so much detail in the bodies of these planes that cleaning them has been a real challenge. I hope to have them finished soon.
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Do you remember where you saw the price list? I am curious if the numbers I came up with are close to what others would charge. I was thinking 30 dollars for a full restore + the shipping… All in all less then 50 dollars for everything.

I don't know that I will advertise the service all over but I was thinking of setting up a small site with pics and having the service to offer. I wouldn't be able to handle a heavy flow of work but a few every now and then would be fun for me.

Also now that I have a pretty complete set for myself I am running out of planes to restore. I have a few specialty planes to do but thats it. I may also buy old ones to restore and sell as user planes. I see those sell for a bit more.


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## Beginningwoodworker

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #6 complete restore w pics!*
> 
> After many weeks of hunting and bidding on Ebay I was finally able to win an auction for a Stanley #6 at a decent price. The #6 planes usually sell somewhere around the 50 dollar range and I got this one for 38 dollars. My goal is to someday have the whole set of Stanley bench planes #1 through #8. I am only 3 shy of my goal excluding the 4 1/2, 5 1/4 and 5 1/2. I still need 1, 2 and 8. I don't see 1 or 2 ending up in my collection anytime soon but the hunt is on for the #8! Stay tuned!
> 
> The #6 I got was in really good shape so it wasn't to hard of a restore. The most time consuming part was the sole. It is actually a 6C so it has groves on the bottom. The groves were pretty clogged up with dirt. I used my Dremmel tool with wire brush to get most of it out and then did the rest by hand with tooth brush and Q-tips.
> 
> For this plane I tried something new for the wood knob and tote. I had been sanding the handles starting with 180 grit and working up to 800 grit. It was a lot of work and I noticed the Rosewood turning a really dark almost black like color after applying a finish. With this planes Rosewood I eliminated sand paper and used abrasive pads only. I started with the green abrasive pad followed by the silver then finished with the white which is very fine. I didn't spend nearly as much time as I did when I used sand paper and I am a lot happier with the results.
> 
> The before pictures were taken with my cell phone so they are not all that great. I don't have a nice shaving picture yet as I am still working on the blade.
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> I should have some more stuff up soon. I am currently working on a few planes which have been a ton of fun for me to work on so far. I am completely restoring a #45 combination plane as well as a #48 T&G plane. There is so much detail in the bodies of these planes that cleaning them has been a real challenge. I hope to have them finished soon.
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Thats a nice looking handplane.


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## mafe

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #6 complete restore w pics!*
> 
> After many weeks of hunting and bidding on Ebay I was finally able to win an auction for a Stanley #6 at a decent price. The #6 planes usually sell somewhere around the 50 dollar range and I got this one for 38 dollars. My goal is to someday have the whole set of Stanley bench planes #1 through #8. I am only 3 shy of my goal excluding the 4 1/2, 5 1/4 and 5 1/2. I still need 1, 2 and 8. I don't see 1 or 2 ending up in my collection anytime soon but the hunt is on for the #8! Stay tuned!
> 
> The #6 I got was in really good shape so it wasn't to hard of a restore. The most time consuming part was the sole. It is actually a 6C so it has groves on the bottom. The groves were pretty clogged up with dirt. I used my Dremmel tool with wire brush to get most of it out and then did the rest by hand with tooth brush and Q-tips.
> 
> For this plane I tried something new for the wood knob and tote. I had been sanding the handles starting with 180 grit and working up to 800 grit. It was a lot of work and I noticed the Rosewood turning a really dark almost black like color after applying a finish. With this planes Rosewood I eliminated sand paper and used abrasive pads only. I started with the green abrasive pad followed by the silver then finished with the white which is very fine. I didn't spend nearly as much time as I did when I used sand paper and I am a lot happier with the results.
> 
> The before pictures were taken with my cell phone so they are not all that great. I don't have a nice shaving picture yet as I am still working on the blade.
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> I should have some more stuff up soon. I am currently working on a few planes which have been a ton of fun for me to work on so far. I am completely restoring a #45 combination plane as well as a #48 T&G plane. There is so much detail in the bodies of these planes that cleaning them has been a real challenge. I hope to have them finished soon.
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Hi Dan,
You have done a wonderful job on that plane.
I am also short of a no 1, so if you find two sen me a mail…
Also I have a few planes so if you came and spend some weeks here it would be wonderful!
Thank you for sharing your experiences,
best of my thoughts,
Mads


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## superdav721

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #6 complete restore w pics!*
> 
> After many weeks of hunting and bidding on Ebay I was finally able to win an auction for a Stanley #6 at a decent price. The #6 planes usually sell somewhere around the 50 dollar range and I got this one for 38 dollars. My goal is to someday have the whole set of Stanley bench planes #1 through #8. I am only 3 shy of my goal excluding the 4 1/2, 5 1/4 and 5 1/2. I still need 1, 2 and 8. I don't see 1 or 2 ending up in my collection anytime soon but the hunt is on for the #8! Stay tuned!
> 
> The #6 I got was in really good shape so it wasn't to hard of a restore. The most time consuming part was the sole. It is actually a 6C so it has groves on the bottom. The groves were pretty clogged up with dirt. I used my Dremmel tool with wire brush to get most of it out and then did the rest by hand with tooth brush and Q-tips.
> 
> For this plane I tried something new for the wood knob and tote. I had been sanding the handles starting with 180 grit and working up to 800 grit. It was a lot of work and I noticed the Rosewood turning a really dark almost black like color after applying a finish. With this planes Rosewood I eliminated sand paper and used abrasive pads only. I started with the green abrasive pad followed by the silver then finished with the white which is very fine. I didn't spend nearly as much time as I did when I used sand paper and I am a lot happier with the results.
> 
> The before pictures were taken with my cell phone so they are not all that great. I don't have a nice shaving picture yet as I am still working on the blade.
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> I should have some more stuff up soon. I am currently working on a few planes which have been a ton of fun for me to work on so far. I am completely restoring a #45 combination plane as well as a #48 T&G plane. There is so much detail in the bodies of these planes that cleaning them has been a real challenge. I hope to have them finished soon.
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Dan, Its my loss for not knowing of your blog series. This is the first one I have read. I went back and read them from start to here. Most amazing. If you could, could we please see some pics of all of them together. You should be proud to place these planes back in service. Good luck on you endeavor in restoring more. I do enjoy what your doing.


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## bigike

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #6 complete restore w pics!*
> 
> After many weeks of hunting and bidding on Ebay I was finally able to win an auction for a Stanley #6 at a decent price. The #6 planes usually sell somewhere around the 50 dollar range and I got this one for 38 dollars. My goal is to someday have the whole set of Stanley bench planes #1 through #8. I am only 3 shy of my goal excluding the 4 1/2, 5 1/4 and 5 1/2. I still need 1, 2 and 8. I don't see 1 or 2 ending up in my collection anytime soon but the hunt is on for the #8! Stay tuned!
> 
> The #6 I got was in really good shape so it wasn't to hard of a restore. The most time consuming part was the sole. It is actually a 6C so it has groves on the bottom. The groves were pretty clogged up with dirt. I used my Dremmel tool with wire brush to get most of it out and then did the rest by hand with tooth brush and Q-tips.
> 
> For this plane I tried something new for the wood knob and tote. I had been sanding the handles starting with 180 grit and working up to 800 grit. It was a lot of work and I noticed the Rosewood turning a really dark almost black like color after applying a finish. With this planes Rosewood I eliminated sand paper and used abrasive pads only. I started with the green abrasive pad followed by the silver then finished with the white which is very fine. I didn't spend nearly as much time as I did when I used sand paper and I am a lot happier with the results.
> 
> The before pictures were taken with my cell phone so they are not all that great. I don't have a nice shaving picture yet as I am still working on the blade.
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> I should have some more stuff up soon. I am currently working on a few planes which have been a ton of fun for me to work on so far. I am completely restoring a #45 combination plane as well as a #48 T&G plane. There is so much detail in the bodies of these planes that cleaning them has been a real challenge. I hope to have them finished soon.
> 
> Thanks for looking!


great work.


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## swirt

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #6 complete restore w pics!*
> 
> After many weeks of hunting and bidding on Ebay I was finally able to win an auction for a Stanley #6 at a decent price. The #6 planes usually sell somewhere around the 50 dollar range and I got this one for 38 dollars. My goal is to someday have the whole set of Stanley bench planes #1 through #8. I am only 3 shy of my goal excluding the 4 1/2, 5 1/4 and 5 1/2. I still need 1, 2 and 8. I don't see 1 or 2 ending up in my collection anytime soon but the hunt is on for the #8! Stay tuned!
> 
> The #6 I got was in really good shape so it wasn't to hard of a restore. The most time consuming part was the sole. It is actually a 6C so it has groves on the bottom. The groves were pretty clogged up with dirt. I used my Dremmel tool with wire brush to get most of it out and then did the rest by hand with tooth brush and Q-tips.
> 
> For this plane I tried something new for the wood knob and tote. I had been sanding the handles starting with 180 grit and working up to 800 grit. It was a lot of work and I noticed the Rosewood turning a really dark almost black like color after applying a finish. With this planes Rosewood I eliminated sand paper and used abrasive pads only. I started with the green abrasive pad followed by the silver then finished with the white which is very fine. I didn't spend nearly as much time as I did when I used sand paper and I am a lot happier with the results.
> 
> The before pictures were taken with my cell phone so they are not all that great. I don't have a nice shaving picture yet as I am still working on the blade.
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> I should have some more stuff up soon. I am currently working on a few planes which have been a ton of fun for me to work on so far. I am completely restoring a #45 combination plane as well as a #48 T&G plane. There is so much detail in the bodies of these planes that cleaning them has been a real challenge. I hope to have them finished soon.
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Here it is Dan. BigIke posted it. http://lumberjocks.com/topics/25062


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## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #6 complete restore w pics!*
> 
> After many weeks of hunting and bidding on Ebay I was finally able to win an auction for a Stanley #6 at a decent price. The #6 planes usually sell somewhere around the 50 dollar range and I got this one for 38 dollars. My goal is to someday have the whole set of Stanley bench planes #1 through #8. I am only 3 shy of my goal excluding the 4 1/2, 5 1/4 and 5 1/2. I still need 1, 2 and 8. I don't see 1 or 2 ending up in my collection anytime soon but the hunt is on for the #8! Stay tuned!
> 
> The #6 I got was in really good shape so it wasn't to hard of a restore. The most time consuming part was the sole. It is actually a 6C so it has groves on the bottom. The groves were pretty clogged up with dirt. I used my Dremmel tool with wire brush to get most of it out and then did the rest by hand with tooth brush and Q-tips.
> 
> For this plane I tried something new for the wood knob and tote. I had been sanding the handles starting with 180 grit and working up to 800 grit. It was a lot of work and I noticed the Rosewood turning a really dark almost black like color after applying a finish. With this planes Rosewood I eliminated sand paper and used abrasive pads only. I started with the green abrasive pad followed by the silver then finished with the white which is very fine. I didn't spend nearly as much time as I did when I used sand paper and I am a lot happier with the results.
> 
> The before pictures were taken with my cell phone so they are not all that great. I don't have a nice shaving picture yet as I am still working on the blade.
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> I should have some more stuff up soon. I am currently working on a few planes which have been a ton of fun for me to work on so far. I am completely restoring a #45 combination plane as well as a #48 T&G plane. There is so much detail in the bodies of these planes that cleaning them has been a real challenge. I hope to have them finished soon.
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Swirt- wow thats a lot of choices and a lot of info… I was thinking of a way more basic description. I also only figured under 50 to restore the whole plane… Thanks for the link


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## Bertha

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #6 complete restore w pics!*
> 
> After many weeks of hunting and bidding on Ebay I was finally able to win an auction for a Stanley #6 at a decent price. The #6 planes usually sell somewhere around the 50 dollar range and I got this one for 38 dollars. My goal is to someday have the whole set of Stanley bench planes #1 through #8. I am only 3 shy of my goal excluding the 4 1/2, 5 1/4 and 5 1/2. I still need 1, 2 and 8. I don't see 1 or 2 ending up in my collection anytime soon but the hunt is on for the #8! Stay tuned!
> 
> The #6 I got was in really good shape so it wasn't to hard of a restore. The most time consuming part was the sole. It is actually a 6C so it has groves on the bottom. The groves were pretty clogged up with dirt. I used my Dremmel tool with wire brush to get most of it out and then did the rest by hand with tooth brush and Q-tips.
> 
> For this plane I tried something new for the wood knob and tote. I had been sanding the handles starting with 180 grit and working up to 800 grit. It was a lot of work and I noticed the Rosewood turning a really dark almost black like color after applying a finish. With this planes Rosewood I eliminated sand paper and used abrasive pads only. I started with the green abrasive pad followed by the silver then finished with the white which is very fine. I didn't spend nearly as much time as I did when I used sand paper and I am a lot happier with the results.
> 
> The before pictures were taken with my cell phone so they are not all that great. I don't have a nice shaving picture yet as I am still working on the blade.
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> I should have some more stuff up soon. I am currently working on a few planes which have been a ton of fun for me to work on so far. I am completely restoring a #45 combination plane as well as a #48 T&G plane. There is so much detail in the bodies of these planes that cleaning them has been a real challenge. I hope to have them finished soon.
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Thanks Swirt, I couldn't find it!


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## Dennisgrosen

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #6 complete restore w pics!*
> 
> After many weeks of hunting and bidding on Ebay I was finally able to win an auction for a Stanley #6 at a decent price. The #6 planes usually sell somewhere around the 50 dollar range and I got this one for 38 dollars. My goal is to someday have the whole set of Stanley bench planes #1 through #8. I am only 3 shy of my goal excluding the 4 1/2, 5 1/4 and 5 1/2. I still need 1, 2 and 8. I don't see 1 or 2 ending up in my collection anytime soon but the hunt is on for the #8! Stay tuned!
> 
> The #6 I got was in really good shape so it wasn't to hard of a restore. The most time consuming part was the sole. It is actually a 6C so it has groves on the bottom. The groves were pretty clogged up with dirt. I used my Dremmel tool with wire brush to get most of it out and then did the rest by hand with tooth brush and Q-tips.
> 
> For this plane I tried something new for the wood knob and tote. I had been sanding the handles starting with 180 grit and working up to 800 grit. It was a lot of work and I noticed the Rosewood turning a really dark almost black like color after applying a finish. With this planes Rosewood I eliminated sand paper and used abrasive pads only. I started with the green abrasive pad followed by the silver then finished with the white which is very fine. I didn't spend nearly as much time as I did when I used sand paper and I am a lot happier with the results.
> 
> The before pictures were taken with my cell phone so they are not all that great. I don't have a nice shaving picture yet as I am still working on the blade.
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> I should have some more stuff up soon. I am currently working on a few planes which have been a ton of fun for me to work on so far. I am completely restoring a #45 combination plane as well as a #48 T&G plane. There is so much detail in the bodies of these planes that cleaning them has been a real challenge. I hope to have them finished soon.
> 
> Thanks for looking!


looking good Dan 

Dennis


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## DocSavage45

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #6 complete restore w pics!*
> 
> After many weeks of hunting and bidding on Ebay I was finally able to win an auction for a Stanley #6 at a decent price. The #6 planes usually sell somewhere around the 50 dollar range and I got this one for 38 dollars. My goal is to someday have the whole set of Stanley bench planes #1 through #8. I am only 3 shy of my goal excluding the 4 1/2, 5 1/4 and 5 1/2. I still need 1, 2 and 8. I don't see 1 or 2 ending up in my collection anytime soon but the hunt is on for the #8! Stay tuned!
> 
> The #6 I got was in really good shape so it wasn't to hard of a restore. The most time consuming part was the sole. It is actually a 6C so it has groves on the bottom. The groves were pretty clogged up with dirt. I used my Dremmel tool with wire brush to get most of it out and then did the rest by hand with tooth brush and Q-tips.
> 
> For this plane I tried something new for the wood knob and tote. I had been sanding the handles starting with 180 grit and working up to 800 grit. It was a lot of work and I noticed the Rosewood turning a really dark almost black like color after applying a finish. With this planes Rosewood I eliminated sand paper and used abrasive pads only. I started with the green abrasive pad followed by the silver then finished with the white which is very fine. I didn't spend nearly as much time as I did when I used sand paper and I am a lot happier with the results.
> 
> The before pictures were taken with my cell phone so they are not all that great. I don't have a nice shaving picture yet as I am still working on the blade.
> 
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> I should have some more stuff up soon. I am currently working on a few planes which have been a ton of fun for me to work on so far. I am completely restoring a #45 combination plane as well as a #48 T&G plane. There is so much detail in the bodies of these planes that cleaning them has been a real challenge. I hope to have them finished soon.
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Saw your blog listed in the emag, and got curious. Have you done any sole plate restoration?


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## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #6 complete restore w pics!*
> 
> After many weeks of hunting and bidding on Ebay I was finally able to win an auction for a Stanley #6 at a decent price. The #6 planes usually sell somewhere around the 50 dollar range and I got this one for 38 dollars. My goal is to someday have the whole set of Stanley bench planes #1 through #8. I am only 3 shy of my goal excluding the 4 1/2, 5 1/4 and 5 1/2. I still need 1, 2 and 8. I don't see 1 or 2 ending up in my collection anytime soon but the hunt is on for the #8! Stay tuned!
> 
> The #6 I got was in really good shape so it wasn't to hard of a restore. The most time consuming part was the sole. It is actually a 6C so it has groves on the bottom. The groves were pretty clogged up with dirt. I used my Dremmel tool with wire brush to get most of it out and then did the rest by hand with tooth brush and Q-tips.
> 
> For this plane I tried something new for the wood knob and tote. I had been sanding the handles starting with 180 grit and working up to 800 grit. It was a lot of work and I noticed the Rosewood turning a really dark almost black like color after applying a finish. With this planes Rosewood I eliminated sand paper and used abrasive pads only. I started with the green abrasive pad followed by the silver then finished with the white which is very fine. I didn't spend nearly as much time as I did when I used sand paper and I am a lot happier with the results.
> 
> The before pictures were taken with my cell phone so they are not all that great. I don't have a nice shaving picture yet as I am still working on the blade.
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> I should have some more stuff up soon. I am currently working on a few planes which have been a ton of fun for me to work on so far. I am completely restoring a #45 combination plane as well as a #48 T&G plane. There is so much detail in the bodies of these planes that cleaning them has been a real challenge. I hope to have them finished soon.
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Doc- I lap or flatten the soles of all the planes I restore. I do it by running the plane over some sandpaper attached to a flat surface (I use plate glass). I start at 180 grit and work up to at least 400 grit wet/dry paper. If I really want to polish it I will go higher grits but its really not necessary.


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## mchuray

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #6 complete restore w pics!*
> 
> After many weeks of hunting and bidding on Ebay I was finally able to win an auction for a Stanley #6 at a decent price. The #6 planes usually sell somewhere around the 50 dollar range and I got this one for 38 dollars. My goal is to someday have the whole set of Stanley bench planes #1 through #8. I am only 3 shy of my goal excluding the 4 1/2, 5 1/4 and 5 1/2. I still need 1, 2 and 8. I don't see 1 or 2 ending up in my collection anytime soon but the hunt is on for the #8! Stay tuned!
> 
> The #6 I got was in really good shape so it wasn't to hard of a restore. The most time consuming part was the sole. It is actually a 6C so it has groves on the bottom. The groves were pretty clogged up with dirt. I used my Dremmel tool with wire brush to get most of it out and then did the rest by hand with tooth brush and Q-tips.
> 
> For this plane I tried something new for the wood knob and tote. I had been sanding the handles starting with 180 grit and working up to 800 grit. It was a lot of work and I noticed the Rosewood turning a really dark almost black like color after applying a finish. With this planes Rosewood I eliminated sand paper and used abrasive pads only. I started with the green abrasive pad followed by the silver then finished with the white which is very fine. I didn't spend nearly as much time as I did when I used sand paper and I am a lot happier with the results.
> 
> The before pictures were taken with my cell phone so they are not all that great. I don't have a nice shaving picture yet as I am still working on the blade.
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> I should have some more stuff up soon. I am currently working on a few planes which have been a ton of fun for me to work on so far. I am completely restoring a #45 combination plane as well as a #48 T&G plane. There is so much detail in the bodies of these planes that cleaning them has been a real challenge. I hope to have them finished soon.
> 
> Thanks for looking!


What kind of black paint did you use? Every time I read about an old Stanley they talk about it being Japaned. Is this an enamel ? Really interesting as I also have a No. 6 I want to restore.
Mark


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## NBeener

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #6 complete restore w pics!*
> 
> After many weeks of hunting and bidding on Ebay I was finally able to win an auction for a Stanley #6 at a decent price. The #6 planes usually sell somewhere around the 50 dollar range and I got this one for 38 dollars. My goal is to someday have the whole set of Stanley bench planes #1 through #8. I am only 3 shy of my goal excluding the 4 1/2, 5 1/4 and 5 1/2. I still need 1, 2 and 8. I don't see 1 or 2 ending up in my collection anytime soon but the hunt is on for the #8! Stay tuned!
> 
> The #6 I got was in really good shape so it wasn't to hard of a restore. The most time consuming part was the sole. It is actually a 6C so it has groves on the bottom. The groves were pretty clogged up with dirt. I used my Dremmel tool with wire brush to get most of it out and then did the rest by hand with tooth brush and Q-tips.
> 
> For this plane I tried something new for the wood knob and tote. I had been sanding the handles starting with 180 grit and working up to 800 grit. It was a lot of work and I noticed the Rosewood turning a really dark almost black like color after applying a finish. With this planes Rosewood I eliminated sand paper and used abrasive pads only. I started with the green abrasive pad followed by the silver then finished with the white which is very fine. I didn't spend nearly as much time as I did when I used sand paper and I am a lot happier with the results.
> 
> The before pictures were taken with my cell phone so they are not all that great. I don't have a nice shaving picture yet as I am still working on the blade.
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> I should have some more stuff up soon. I am currently working on a few planes which have been a ton of fun for me to work on so far. I am completely restoring a #45 combination plane as well as a #48 T&G plane. There is so much detail in the bodies of these planes that cleaning them has been a real challenge. I hope to have them finished soon.
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Very nice job.

So cool to see people giving old iron a new lease on life !

Enjoy it


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## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #6 complete restore w pics!*
> 
> After many weeks of hunting and bidding on Ebay I was finally able to win an auction for a Stanley #6 at a decent price. The #6 planes usually sell somewhere around the 50 dollar range and I got this one for 38 dollars. My goal is to someday have the whole set of Stanley bench planes #1 through #8. I am only 3 shy of my goal excluding the 4 1/2, 5 1/4 and 5 1/2. I still need 1, 2 and 8. I don't see 1 or 2 ending up in my collection anytime soon but the hunt is on for the #8! Stay tuned!
> 
> The #6 I got was in really good shape so it wasn't to hard of a restore. The most time consuming part was the sole. It is actually a 6C so it has groves on the bottom. The groves were pretty clogged up with dirt. I used my Dremmel tool with wire brush to get most of it out and then did the rest by hand with tooth brush and Q-tips.
> 
> For this plane I tried something new for the wood knob and tote. I had been sanding the handles starting with 180 grit and working up to 800 grit. It was a lot of work and I noticed the Rosewood turning a really dark almost black like color after applying a finish. With this planes Rosewood I eliminated sand paper and used abrasive pads only. I started with the green abrasive pad followed by the silver then finished with the white which is very fine. I didn't spend nearly as much time as I did when I used sand paper and I am a lot happier with the results.
> 
> The before pictures were taken with my cell phone so they are not all that great. I don't have a nice shaving picture yet as I am still working on the blade.
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> I should have some more stuff up soon. I am currently working on a few planes which have been a ton of fun for me to work on so far. I am completely restoring a #45 combination plane as well as a #48 T&G plane. There is so much detail in the bodies of these planes that cleaning them has been a real challenge. I hope to have them finished soon.
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Mark- I don't know much about japanning but its not so easy to do. I would assume at the time it was done it was the best quality way to do it with what they had but paints have come a long way since then. You can google japanning and find info on it..

I have another blog in this series where I show what I use. To be honest, unless you are trying to match the exact same sheen black as the original, any quality black spray paint will work. The key to a good finish is the prep work.


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## mchuray

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #6 complete restore w pics!*
> 
> After many weeks of hunting and bidding on Ebay I was finally able to win an auction for a Stanley #6 at a decent price. The #6 planes usually sell somewhere around the 50 dollar range and I got this one for 38 dollars. My goal is to someday have the whole set of Stanley bench planes #1 through #8. I am only 3 shy of my goal excluding the 4 1/2, 5 1/4 and 5 1/2. I still need 1, 2 and 8. I don't see 1 or 2 ending up in my collection anytime soon but the hunt is on for the #8! Stay tuned!
> 
> The #6 I got was in really good shape so it wasn't to hard of a restore. The most time consuming part was the sole. It is actually a 6C so it has groves on the bottom. The groves were pretty clogged up with dirt. I used my Dremmel tool with wire brush to get most of it out and then did the rest by hand with tooth brush and Q-tips.
> 
> For this plane I tried something new for the wood knob and tote. I had been sanding the handles starting with 180 grit and working up to 800 grit. It was a lot of work and I noticed the Rosewood turning a really dark almost black like color after applying a finish. With this planes Rosewood I eliminated sand paper and used abrasive pads only. I started with the green abrasive pad followed by the silver then finished with the white which is very fine. I didn't spend nearly as much time as I did when I used sand paper and I am a lot happier with the results.
> 
> The before pictures were taken with my cell phone so they are not all that great. I don't have a nice shaving picture yet as I am still working on the blade.
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> I should have some more stuff up soon. I am currently working on a few planes which have been a ton of fun for me to work on so far. I am completely restoring a #45 combination plane as well as a #48 T&G plane. There is so much detail in the bodies of these planes that cleaning them has been a real challenge. I hope to have them finished soon.
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Thanks for the reply. Guess I'll use good o'l Rustoloum glossy black.
Mark


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## Schwieb

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #6 complete restore w pics!*
> 
> After many weeks of hunting and bidding on Ebay I was finally able to win an auction for a Stanley #6 at a decent price. The #6 planes usually sell somewhere around the 50 dollar range and I got this one for 38 dollars. My goal is to someday have the whole set of Stanley bench planes #1 through #8. I am only 3 shy of my goal excluding the 4 1/2, 5 1/4 and 5 1/2. I still need 1, 2 and 8. I don't see 1 or 2 ending up in my collection anytime soon but the hunt is on for the #8! Stay tuned!
> 
> The #6 I got was in really good shape so it wasn't to hard of a restore. The most time consuming part was the sole. It is actually a 6C so it has groves on the bottom. The groves were pretty clogged up with dirt. I used my Dremmel tool with wire brush to get most of it out and then did the rest by hand with tooth brush and Q-tips.
> 
> For this plane I tried something new for the wood knob and tote. I had been sanding the handles starting with 180 grit and working up to 800 grit. It was a lot of work and I noticed the Rosewood turning a really dark almost black like color after applying a finish. With this planes Rosewood I eliminated sand paper and used abrasive pads only. I started with the green abrasive pad followed by the silver then finished with the white which is very fine. I didn't spend nearly as much time as I did when I used sand paper and I am a lot happier with the results.
> 
> The before pictures were taken with my cell phone so they are not all that great. I don't have a nice shaving picture yet as I am still working on the blade.
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> I should have some more stuff up soon. I am currently working on a few planes which have been a ton of fun for me to work on so far. I am completely restoring a #45 combination plane as well as a #48 T&G plane. There is so much detail in the bodies of these planes that cleaning them has been a real challenge. I hope to have them finished soon.
> 
> Thanks for looking!


I wish there was a way to refurbish and make like new old woodworkers like me. The plane looks great. Keep up the good work. Someday another woodworker will treasure having these planes and appreciate the care with which they were kept and maintained.


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## Donnerboy

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #6 complete restore w pics!*
> 
> After many weeks of hunting and bidding on Ebay I was finally able to win an auction for a Stanley #6 at a decent price. The #6 planes usually sell somewhere around the 50 dollar range and I got this one for 38 dollars. My goal is to someday have the whole set of Stanley bench planes #1 through #8. I am only 3 shy of my goal excluding the 4 1/2, 5 1/4 and 5 1/2. I still need 1, 2 and 8. I don't see 1 or 2 ending up in my collection anytime soon but the hunt is on for the #8! Stay tuned!
> 
> The #6 I got was in really good shape so it wasn't to hard of a restore. The most time consuming part was the sole. It is actually a 6C so it has groves on the bottom. The groves were pretty clogged up with dirt. I used my Dremmel tool with wire brush to get most of it out and then did the rest by hand with tooth brush and Q-tips.
> 
> For this plane I tried something new for the wood knob and tote. I had been sanding the handles starting with 180 grit and working up to 800 grit. It was a lot of work and I noticed the Rosewood turning a really dark almost black like color after applying a finish. With this planes Rosewood I eliminated sand paper and used abrasive pads only. I started with the green abrasive pad followed by the silver then finished with the white which is very fine. I didn't spend nearly as much time as I did when I used sand paper and I am a lot happier with the results.
> 
> The before pictures were taken with my cell phone so they are not all that great. I don't have a nice shaving picture yet as I am still working on the blade.
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> I should have some more stuff up soon. I am currently working on a few planes which have been a ton of fun for me to work on so far. I am completely restoring a #45 combination plane as well as a #48 T&G plane. There is so much detail in the bodies of these planes that cleaning them has been a real challenge. I hope to have them finished soon.
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Dan,

I just got a #6 and have been champing at the bit to restore it. I found it on 'Peaches to the Beaches', a giant yard sale in Georgia that runs from Brunswick to Atlanta in the 2nd week of March. From one guy I bought two #4's, a #5, and a #6 that had all been unloved and were nothing but a pile of rusty gold for $55. I had only seen #6's for $75 before that…


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## Dcase

*Stanley Bailey #3 complete restore w before & after pics. I am on a role!*

Just the other day I posted a blog on the completed restoration of my Stanley #6. Well last night I finished up my Stanley #3 and took some final after pictures for this blog.

I have been working on this plane for months. As with a lot of my planes I got this one off of ebay. The plane was in rough shape as you can see in the photos. All the pieces were heavily rusted, the rear handle was broke at the top and the top of the frog was broken off. You can see in the before pictures that the lateral adjustment is missing from the frog. I went ahead and restored the body and small parts and then set them aside. After a couple months of searching ebay I finally found and won an auction for a #3 frog that would fit my plane.

Due to the heavy rust there was some pitting on the sides of the body that I just couldn't get out. Also the blade was to badly rusted to restore to user condition so I am going to be buying a replacement blade and breaker for this plane soon. I didn't bother to fix or replace the handle. Even though the top is broke off it still works just fine for a user plane.


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## Kentuk55

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #3 complete restore w before & after pics. I am on a role!*
> 
> Just the other day I posted a blog on the completed restoration of my Stanley #6. Well last night I finished up my Stanley #3 and took some final after pictures for this blog.
> 
> I have been working on this plane for months. As with a lot of my planes I got this one off of ebay. The plane was in rough shape as you can see in the photos. All the pieces were heavily rusted, the rear handle was broke at the top and the top of the frog was broken off. You can see in the before pictures that the lateral adjustment is missing from the frog. I went ahead and restored the body and small parts and then set them aside. After a couple months of searching ebay I finally found and won an auction for a #3 frog that would fit my plane.
> 
> Due to the heavy rust there was some pitting on the sides of the body that I just couldn't get out. Also the blade was to badly rusted to restore to user condition so I am going to be buying a replacement blade and breaker for this plane soon. I didn't bother to fix or replace the handle. Even though the top is broke off it still works just fine for a user plane.


excellent restore. looks good to me


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## canadianchips

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #3 complete restore w before & after pics. I am on a role!*
> 
> Just the other day I posted a blog on the completed restoration of my Stanley #6. Well last night I finished up my Stanley #3 and took some final after pictures for this blog.
> 
> I have been working on this plane for months. As with a lot of my planes I got this one off of ebay. The plane was in rough shape as you can see in the photos. All the pieces were heavily rusted, the rear handle was broke at the top and the top of the frog was broken off. You can see in the before pictures that the lateral adjustment is missing from the frog. I went ahead and restored the body and small parts and then set them aside. After a couple months of searching ebay I finally found and won an auction for a #3 frog that would fit my plane.
> 
> Due to the heavy rust there was some pitting on the sides of the body that I just couldn't get out. Also the blade was to badly rusted to restore to user condition so I am going to be buying a replacement blade and breaker for this plane soon. I didn't bother to fix or replace the handle. Even though the top is broke off it still works just fine for a user plane.


That is nice. Looks far better than when you bought it. I like to see this happen .


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## Dwain

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #3 complete restore w before & after pics. I am on a role!*
> 
> Just the other day I posted a blog on the completed restoration of my Stanley #6. Well last night I finished up my Stanley #3 and took some final after pictures for this blog.
> 
> I have been working on this plane for months. As with a lot of my planes I got this one off of ebay. The plane was in rough shape as you can see in the photos. All the pieces were heavily rusted, the rear handle was broke at the top and the top of the frog was broken off. You can see in the before pictures that the lateral adjustment is missing from the frog. I went ahead and restored the body and small parts and then set them aside. After a couple months of searching ebay I finally found and won an auction for a #3 frog that would fit my plane.
> 
> Due to the heavy rust there was some pitting on the sides of the body that I just couldn't get out. Also the blade was to badly rusted to restore to user condition so I am going to be buying a replacement blade and breaker for this plane soon. I didn't bother to fix or replace the handle. Even though the top is broke off it still works just fine for a user plane.


That looks like a type 11. Nice combination of features (frog adjustment screw, lateral adjuster, heavy casting). You should enjoy using that plane! Really nice job on the rehab…


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## IrishWoodworker

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #3 complete restore w before & after pics. I am on a role!*
> 
> Just the other day I posted a blog on the completed restoration of my Stanley #6. Well last night I finished up my Stanley #3 and took some final after pictures for this blog.
> 
> I have been working on this plane for months. As with a lot of my planes I got this one off of ebay. The plane was in rough shape as you can see in the photos. All the pieces were heavily rusted, the rear handle was broke at the top and the top of the frog was broken off. You can see in the before pictures that the lateral adjustment is missing from the frog. I went ahead and restored the body and small parts and then set them aside. After a couple months of searching ebay I finally found and won an auction for a #3 frog that would fit my plane.
> 
> Due to the heavy rust there was some pitting on the sides of the body that I just couldn't get out. Also the blade was to badly rusted to restore to user condition so I am going to be buying a replacement blade and breaker for this plane soon. I didn't bother to fix or replace the handle. Even though the top is broke off it still works just fine for a user plane.


How do you level and polish the top of the frog?


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## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #3 complete restore w before & after pics. I am on a role!*
> 
> Just the other day I posted a blog on the completed restoration of my Stanley #6. Well last night I finished up my Stanley #3 and took some final after pictures for this blog.
> 
> I have been working on this plane for months. As with a lot of my planes I got this one off of ebay. The plane was in rough shape as you can see in the photos. All the pieces were heavily rusted, the rear handle was broke at the top and the top of the frog was broken off. You can see in the before pictures that the lateral adjustment is missing from the frog. I went ahead and restored the body and small parts and then set them aside. After a couple months of searching ebay I finally found and won an auction for a #3 frog that would fit my plane.
> 
> Due to the heavy rust there was some pitting on the sides of the body that I just couldn't get out. Also the blade was to badly rusted to restore to user condition so I am going to be buying a replacement blade and breaker for this plane soon. I didn't bother to fix or replace the handle. Even though the top is broke off it still works just fine for a user plane.


Dwain- Yes, it is a type 11. I have a couple others that are type 11s and I really like the design of them.


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## BigTiny

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #3 complete restore w before & after pics. I am on a role!*
> 
> Just the other day I posted a blog on the completed restoration of my Stanley #6. Well last night I finished up my Stanley #3 and took some final after pictures for this blog.
> 
> I have been working on this plane for months. As with a lot of my planes I got this one off of ebay. The plane was in rough shape as you can see in the photos. All the pieces were heavily rusted, the rear handle was broke at the top and the top of the frog was broken off. You can see in the before pictures that the lateral adjustment is missing from the frog. I went ahead and restored the body and small parts and then set them aside. After a couple months of searching ebay I finally found and won an auction for a #3 frog that would fit my plane.
> 
> Due to the heavy rust there was some pitting on the sides of the body that I just couldn't get out. Also the blade was to badly rusted to restore to user condition so I am going to be buying a replacement blade and breaker for this plane soon. I didn't bother to fix or replace the handle. Even though the top is broke off it still works just fine for a user plane.


You could always color some epoxy resin and patch the end of the handle with it, just for looks.
I love seeing old tools given a new lease on life instead of going to the dump. It saves an excellent old tool, it keeps the energy needed to make a new one from being wasted and (at least in mt opinion) old tools are better that what's being made today.

Keep up the good work. When you have your own collection vompleted, you can always start a cottage industry rebuilding these things for resale. Probably not much money per hour expended, but the pride and joy you get in seeing these old timers back doing productive work in some proud owner's shop is something you can't put a price on.


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## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #3 complete restore w before & after pics. I am on a role!*
> 
> Just the other day I posted a blog on the completed restoration of my Stanley #6. Well last night I finished up my Stanley #3 and took some final after pictures for this blog.
> 
> I have been working on this plane for months. As with a lot of my planes I got this one off of ebay. The plane was in rough shape as you can see in the photos. All the pieces were heavily rusted, the rear handle was broke at the top and the top of the frog was broken off. You can see in the before pictures that the lateral adjustment is missing from the frog. I went ahead and restored the body and small parts and then set them aside. After a couple months of searching ebay I finally found and won an auction for a #3 frog that would fit my plane.
> 
> Due to the heavy rust there was some pitting on the sides of the body that I just couldn't get out. Also the blade was to badly rusted to restore to user condition so I am going to be buying a replacement blade and breaker for this plane soon. I didn't bother to fix or replace the handle. Even though the top is broke off it still works just fine for a user plane.


Newplane- To level and polish the frogs I use the same method as you would on the sole of the plane. I use silicone carbide/wet dry sandpaper on a flat surface (I use a piece of glass). I start at 180 grit (sometimes 120 if its really rough) and then work up to which ever grit I desire from there. To get that mirror like shine I go up to 2000 grit. I don't know that such a high polish effects the use, you should at least go to 400 grit. I just go higher for the look. It can take a while to get it flat depending on how off the frog is. Some have taken me an hour or longer. Once I am done sanding it flat I put a heavy coat of paste wax on it to prevent rust.

To sand it flat you will have to remove the york pin. I use a nail set and just hammer the pin out. Usually it will come out rather easy, if not I use vice grips to pull it the rest of the way. I also try and remove the lateral adjustment lever. This is also held into place by a pin. Sometimes you can just knock it out. Other times it may need to be filed out from the back. Taking this off makes it much easier to sand the frog flat but if the lever is a pain to get out then I just leave it and work around it as best as I can.

Big Tiny- I am actually doing that now. I have a hand full of planes I am restoring now and when I am finished I will be listing them on ebay. Your right in that they wont sell for much when compared to the hours spent but I do get a lot of joy out of cleaning them and it gives me something to do during the winter. I do the restoring in my house because my shop is not heated. It will be nice to sell them off and know they are going back out as new planes to people and will get great use for many many more years.


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## Dcase

*Complete restore of my Stanley #5 Jack Plane w finished pics*

Here is yet another one of my plane restorations. I don't have a before picture of this plane because it is actually a mix of 3 different Stanley jack planes. I was restoring 3 of them at the same time and I mixed and matched the parts on them. I believe this one to be a type 11.

The only thing to note about the restoration of this one thats different from the others I posted is that I did my first handle repair. The Rosewood handle on this plane was broke in two pieces when I got it. I honestly didn't think I was going to be able to repair and restore the handle to the shape that I did.

To fix the handle I first cleaned the surface area in which I was going to glue with mineral spirits. I made sure to scrub it really good with a fine abrasive pad. Once clean and dry I applied some wood glue and then simply clamped it by screwing the handle back onto the plane. The screw in which attaches the handle to the plane body gave plenty enough pressure to clamp it tightly.

Once dry I used yet another new approach to sanding the handle. This time I used my Dremmel tool with a fine abrasive buff attachment. The sanding drums on the Dremmel tool are way to coarse and leave burning and remove to much material. However I found these abrasive buffs to do a fantastic job. It made sanding the handle a breeze and it allowed me to spend special attn to fixed area. You can see in the pictures only a very slight line where it was repaired.

These abrasive buffs also work great on the small metal & brass parts and hard to reach areas. 






























































In the coming days I will be posting my finished restorations for my #4, #7 and some different block planes.


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## IrishWoodworker

Dcase said:


> *Complete restore of my Stanley #5 Jack Plane w finished pics*
> 
> Here is yet another one of my plane restorations. I don't have a before picture of this plane because it is actually a mix of 3 different Stanley jack planes. I was restoring 3 of them at the same time and I mixed and matched the parts on them. I believe this one to be a type 11.
> 
> The only thing to note about the restoration of this one thats different from the others I posted is that I did my first handle repair. The Rosewood handle on this plane was broke in two pieces when I got it. I honestly didn't think I was going to be able to repair and restore the handle to the shape that I did.
> 
> To fix the handle I first cleaned the surface area in which I was going to glue with mineral spirits. I made sure to scrub it really good with a fine abrasive pad. Once clean and dry I applied some wood glue and then simply clamped it by screwing the handle back onto the plane. The screw in which attaches the handle to the plane body gave plenty enough pressure to clamp it tightly.
> 
> Once dry I used yet another new approach to sanding the handle. This time I used my Dremmel tool with a fine abrasive buff attachment. The sanding drums on the Dremmel tool are way to coarse and leave burning and remove to much material. However I found these abrasive buffs to do a fantastic job. It made sanding the handle a breeze and it allowed me to spend special attn to fixed area. You can see in the pictures only a very slight line where it was repaired.
> 
> These abrasive buffs also work great on the small metal & brass parts and hard to reach areas.
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> In the coming days I will be posting my finished restorations for my #4, #7 and some different block planes.


any particular place you picked up those abrasive pads? I am almost done with my 4 1/2 restoration, i will post pics when its done.


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## helluvawreck

Dcase said:


> *Complete restore of my Stanley #5 Jack Plane w finished pics*
> 
> Here is yet another one of my plane restorations. I don't have a before picture of this plane because it is actually a mix of 3 different Stanley jack planes. I was restoring 3 of them at the same time and I mixed and matched the parts on them. I believe this one to be a type 11.
> 
> The only thing to note about the restoration of this one thats different from the others I posted is that I did my first handle repair. The Rosewood handle on this plane was broke in two pieces when I got it. I honestly didn't think I was going to be able to repair and restore the handle to the shape that I did.
> 
> To fix the handle I first cleaned the surface area in which I was going to glue with mineral spirits. I made sure to scrub it really good with a fine abrasive pad. Once clean and dry I applied some wood glue and then simply clamped it by screwing the handle back onto the plane. The screw in which attaches the handle to the plane body gave plenty enough pressure to clamp it tightly.
> 
> Once dry I used yet another new approach to sanding the handle. This time I used my Dremmel tool with a fine abrasive buff attachment. The sanding drums on the Dremmel tool are way to coarse and leave burning and remove to much material. However I found these abrasive buffs to do a fantastic job. It made sanding the handle a breeze and it allowed me to spend special attn to fixed area. You can see in the pictures only a very slight line where it was repaired.
> 
> These abrasive buffs also work great on the small metal & brass parts and hard to reach areas.
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> In the coming days I will be posting my finished restorations for my #4, #7 and some different block planes.


That plane is looking good and this was a nice presentation. Thanks


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## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *Complete restore of my Stanley #5 Jack Plane w finished pics*
> 
> Here is yet another one of my plane restorations. I don't have a before picture of this plane because it is actually a mix of 3 different Stanley jack planes. I was restoring 3 of them at the same time and I mixed and matched the parts on them. I believe this one to be a type 11.
> 
> The only thing to note about the restoration of this one thats different from the others I posted is that I did my first handle repair. The Rosewood handle on this plane was broke in two pieces when I got it. I honestly didn't think I was going to be able to repair and restore the handle to the shape that I did.
> 
> To fix the handle I first cleaned the surface area in which I was going to glue with mineral spirits. I made sure to scrub it really good with a fine abrasive pad. Once clean and dry I applied some wood glue and then simply clamped it by screwing the handle back onto the plane. The screw in which attaches the handle to the plane body gave plenty enough pressure to clamp it tightly.
> 
> Once dry I used yet another new approach to sanding the handle. This time I used my Dremmel tool with a fine abrasive buff attachment. The sanding drums on the Dremmel tool are way to coarse and leave burning and remove to much material. However I found these abrasive buffs to do a fantastic job. It made sanding the handle a breeze and it allowed me to spend special attn to fixed area. You can see in the pictures only a very slight line where it was repaired.
> 
> These abrasive buffs also work great on the small metal & brass parts and hard to reach areas.
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> In the coming days I will be posting my finished restorations for my #4, #7 and some different block planes.


Newplane- Any of the bigger home improvement stores that carry the dremmel tools should carry them. I got mine at Lowels but I have seen them at Home Depot as well. If you get them get the finer grit. I think the finest they have is 320.


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## Kentuk55

Dcase said:


> *Complete restore of my Stanley #5 Jack Plane w finished pics*
> 
> Here is yet another one of my plane restorations. I don't have a before picture of this plane because it is actually a mix of 3 different Stanley jack planes. I was restoring 3 of them at the same time and I mixed and matched the parts on them. I believe this one to be a type 11.
> 
> The only thing to note about the restoration of this one thats different from the others I posted is that I did my first handle repair. The Rosewood handle on this plane was broke in two pieces when I got it. I honestly didn't think I was going to be able to repair and restore the handle to the shape that I did.
> 
> To fix the handle I first cleaned the surface area in which I was going to glue with mineral spirits. I made sure to scrub it really good with a fine abrasive pad. Once clean and dry I applied some wood glue and then simply clamped it by screwing the handle back onto the plane. The screw in which attaches the handle to the plane body gave plenty enough pressure to clamp it tightly.
> 
> Once dry I used yet another new approach to sanding the handle. This time I used my Dremmel tool with a fine abrasive buff attachment. The sanding drums on the Dremmel tool are way to coarse and leave burning and remove to much material. However I found these abrasive buffs to do a fantastic job. It made sanding the handle a breeze and it allowed me to spend special attn to fixed area. You can see in the pictures only a very slight line where it was repaired.
> 
> These abrasive buffs also work great on the small metal & brass parts and hard to reach areas.
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> In the coming days I will be posting my finished restorations for my #4, #7 and some different block planes.


yer doin a great job restorin those nice tools


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## BigTiny

Dcase said:


> *Complete restore of my Stanley #5 Jack Plane w finished pics*
> 
> Here is yet another one of my plane restorations. I don't have a before picture of this plane because it is actually a mix of 3 different Stanley jack planes. I was restoring 3 of them at the same time and I mixed and matched the parts on them. I believe this one to be a type 11.
> 
> The only thing to note about the restoration of this one thats different from the others I posted is that I did my first handle repair. The Rosewood handle on this plane was broke in two pieces when I got it. I honestly didn't think I was going to be able to repair and restore the handle to the shape that I did.
> 
> To fix the handle I first cleaned the surface area in which I was going to glue with mineral spirits. I made sure to scrub it really good with a fine abrasive pad. Once clean and dry I applied some wood glue and then simply clamped it by screwing the handle back onto the plane. The screw in which attaches the handle to the plane body gave plenty enough pressure to clamp it tightly.
> 
> Once dry I used yet another new approach to sanding the handle. This time I used my Dremmel tool with a fine abrasive buff attachment. The sanding drums on the Dremmel tool are way to coarse and leave burning and remove to much material. However I found these abrasive buffs to do a fantastic job. It made sanding the handle a breeze and it allowed me to spend special attn to fixed area. You can see in the pictures only a very slight line where it was repaired.
> 
> These abrasive buffs also work great on the small metal & brass parts and hard to reach areas.
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> In the coming days I will be posting my finished restorations for my #4, #7 and some different block planes.


Nice one. Another plane lives again.


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## ratchet

Dcase said:


> *Complete restore of my Stanley #5 Jack Plane w finished pics*
> 
> Here is yet another one of my plane restorations. I don't have a before picture of this plane because it is actually a mix of 3 different Stanley jack planes. I was restoring 3 of them at the same time and I mixed and matched the parts on them. I believe this one to be a type 11.
> 
> The only thing to note about the restoration of this one thats different from the others I posted is that I did my first handle repair. The Rosewood handle on this plane was broke in two pieces when I got it. I honestly didn't think I was going to be able to repair and restore the handle to the shape that I did.
> 
> To fix the handle I first cleaned the surface area in which I was going to glue with mineral spirits. I made sure to scrub it really good with a fine abrasive pad. Once clean and dry I applied some wood glue and then simply clamped it by screwing the handle back onto the plane. The screw in which attaches the handle to the plane body gave plenty enough pressure to clamp it tightly.
> 
> Once dry I used yet another new approach to sanding the handle. This time I used my Dremmel tool with a fine abrasive buff attachment. The sanding drums on the Dremmel tool are way to coarse and leave burning and remove to much material. However I found these abrasive buffs to do a fantastic job. It made sanding the handle a breeze and it allowed me to spend special attn to fixed area. You can see in the pictures only a very slight line where it was repaired.
> 
> These abrasive buffs also work great on the small metal & brass parts and hard to reach areas.
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> In the coming days I will be posting my finished restorations for my #4, #7 and some different block planes.


Nice restoration…a real beaut! Good job on the handle. It warms my heart to see that mutt #5 become serviceable again. Gotta ask…where is the obligatory pic of a whispy thin shaving come out of the throat?


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## Dcase

*Stanley Bailey # 7 complete restore w pics!*

Ahhhh the No. 7 my toughest and most challenging restoration yet. I won this big hunk of rusted metal off Ebay for 38.00. Thats a rather good deal when you look at what most No. 7 planes sell for on Ebay.

This plane was in worse shape then any of other bench planes I had restored. It was covered in rust, had countless dings and scratches all over the sides and bottom and the front knob was an obvious home made replacement. On the bright side most all of the original japanning was rusted right off of the body so it didn't take me long to strip the old finish. The first thing I did as I do with all my restorations is scrub clean the entire plane wipe it dry then soak it over night in EvapoRust. As much rust as this plane had I was surprised to find that the EvapoRust took all of the rust off. I really cant express enough how great that product works. Once out of the EvapoRust I scrubbed it down again with an abrasive pad and washed it clean.

The next step I take is to lap and or clean the sides of the plane. I like to do this before I repaint the plane so that the new paint job doesn't get all that junk on it. This was a bit of a challenge due to the size of this plane. The piece of plate glass that I have for lapping was not quite large enough so I had to do the best I could with what I had. My goal here was not really to get the sides flat but rather to remove as many of the dings and scratches as I could. I lapped it as flat as I could or wanted to and then finished sanding the sides by hand. This part took a long time and there were a few times I was ready to call it good but I tend to be a perfectionist and I wanted to get it as perfect as I could. I never did get it perfect as you can still see some dings on the sides but its a TON better then it was when I started. I wish I had a better before picture showing the damaged sides.

Once the sides were finished I stripped the rest of the paint using a wire brush on my drill press. I then masked the plane and re-painted it using the spray paint and primer shown in the photo. I think I applied 5 or 6 coats of the finish paint. As that was drying I restored, cleaned and tuned the rest of the metal plane parts using the methods I have described in my earlier blogs.

The back handle was broken off at the top but I can live with that. The front knob on the other hand HAD to go. Although it would have worked just fine as a user handle I wanted the plane to match my others. I ended up snagging a rosewood knob off another one of my restoration plane projects. Its always nice to have other planes on hand for parts.

Once that was all finished I put her back together and started lapping the sole. Once again, this part took a long time as the bottom also had a lot of dings and deep scratches. After lapping the sole for a couple hours with various grits of paper I realized a problem. There were two small deep gouges/scratches directly in front of the mouth opening. This is the part of the plane that many plane users say is crucial to be dead flat. After close inspection I realized that these gouges were to deep to be removed by lapping the sole. I lapped the sole as flat as I could and called it good. Once the plane was done I spent a great deal of time flattening the blade and squaring it. I put a new 25 degree bevel on it with a 29 degree secondary and 31 degree third bevel as well as the ruler trick on the back.

The last photos show the plane shavings that I took off a piece of Walnut. I was able to produce very fine, full width shavings and guess what? The area in front of the mouth was not "dead flat". With that said I now ask is it really all that crucial to have that part of the sole dead flat?


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## Bertha

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey # 7 complete restore w pics!*
> 
> Ahhhh the No. 7 my toughest and most challenging restoration yet. I won this big hunk of rusted metal off Ebay for 38.00. Thats a rather good deal when you look at what most No. 7 planes sell for on Ebay.
> 
> This plane was in worse shape then any of other bench planes I had restored. It was covered in rust, had countless dings and scratches all over the sides and bottom and the front knob was an obvious home made replacement. On the bright side most all of the original japanning was rusted right off of the body so it didn't take me long to strip the old finish. The first thing I did as I do with all my restorations is scrub clean the entire plane wipe it dry then soak it over night in EvapoRust. As much rust as this plane had I was surprised to find that the EvapoRust took all of the rust off. I really cant express enough how great that product works. Once out of the EvapoRust I scrubbed it down again with an abrasive pad and washed it clean.
> 
> The next step I take is to lap and or clean the sides of the plane. I like to do this before I repaint the plane so that the new paint job doesn't get all that junk on it. This was a bit of a challenge due to the size of this plane. The piece of plate glass that I have for lapping was not quite large enough so I had to do the best I could with what I had. My goal here was not really to get the sides flat but rather to remove as many of the dings and scratches as I could. I lapped it as flat as I could or wanted to and then finished sanding the sides by hand. This part took a long time and there were a few times I was ready to call it good but I tend to be a perfectionist and I wanted to get it as perfect as I could. I never did get it perfect as you can still see some dings on the sides but its a TON better then it was when I started. I wish I had a better before picture showing the damaged sides.
> 
> Once the sides were finished I stripped the rest of the paint using a wire brush on my drill press. I then masked the plane and re-painted it using the spray paint and primer shown in the photo. I think I applied 5 or 6 coats of the finish paint. As that was drying I restored, cleaned and tuned the rest of the metal plane parts using the methods I have described in my earlier blogs.
> 
> The back handle was broken off at the top but I can live with that. The front knob on the other hand HAD to go. Although it would have worked just fine as a user handle I wanted the plane to match my others. I ended up snagging a rosewood knob off another one of my restoration plane projects. Its always nice to have other planes on hand for parts.
> 
> Once that was all finished I put her back together and started lapping the sole. Once again, this part took a long time as the bottom also had a lot of dings and deep scratches. After lapping the sole for a couple hours with various grits of paper I realized a problem. There were two small deep gouges/scratches directly in front of the mouth opening. This is the part of the plane that many plane users say is crucial to be dead flat. After close inspection I realized that these gouges were to deep to be removed by lapping the sole. I lapped the sole as flat as I could and called it good. Once the plane was done I spent a great deal of time flattening the blade and squaring it. I put a new 25 degree bevel on it with a 29 degree secondary and 31 degree third bevel as well as the ruler trick on the back.
> 
> The last photos show the plane shavings that I took off a piece of Walnut. I was able to produce very fine, full width shavings and guess what? The area in front of the mouth was not "dead flat". With that said I now ask is it really all that crucial to have that part of the sole dead flat?


Awesome! That original knob was hilarious.


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## ratchet

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey # 7 complete restore w pics!*
> 
> Ahhhh the No. 7 my toughest and most challenging restoration yet. I won this big hunk of rusted metal off Ebay for 38.00. Thats a rather good deal when you look at what most No. 7 planes sell for on Ebay.
> 
> This plane was in worse shape then any of other bench planes I had restored. It was covered in rust, had countless dings and scratches all over the sides and bottom and the front knob was an obvious home made replacement. On the bright side most all of the original japanning was rusted right off of the body so it didn't take me long to strip the old finish. The first thing I did as I do with all my restorations is scrub clean the entire plane wipe it dry then soak it over night in EvapoRust. As much rust as this plane had I was surprised to find that the EvapoRust took all of the rust off. I really cant express enough how great that product works. Once out of the EvapoRust I scrubbed it down again with an abrasive pad and washed it clean.
> 
> The next step I take is to lap and or clean the sides of the plane. I like to do this before I repaint the plane so that the new paint job doesn't get all that junk on it. This was a bit of a challenge due to the size of this plane. The piece of plate glass that I have for lapping was not quite large enough so I had to do the best I could with what I had. My goal here was not really to get the sides flat but rather to remove as many of the dings and scratches as I could. I lapped it as flat as I could or wanted to and then finished sanding the sides by hand. This part took a long time and there were a few times I was ready to call it good but I tend to be a perfectionist and I wanted to get it as perfect as I could. I never did get it perfect as you can still see some dings on the sides but its a TON better then it was when I started. I wish I had a better before picture showing the damaged sides.
> 
> Once the sides were finished I stripped the rest of the paint using a wire brush on my drill press. I then masked the plane and re-painted it using the spray paint and primer shown in the photo. I think I applied 5 or 6 coats of the finish paint. As that was drying I restored, cleaned and tuned the rest of the metal plane parts using the methods I have described in my earlier blogs.
> 
> The back handle was broken off at the top but I can live with that. The front knob on the other hand HAD to go. Although it would have worked just fine as a user handle I wanted the plane to match my others. I ended up snagging a rosewood knob off another one of my restoration plane projects. Its always nice to have other planes on hand for parts.
> 
> Once that was all finished I put her back together and started lapping the sole. Once again, this part took a long time as the bottom also had a lot of dings and deep scratches. After lapping the sole for a couple hours with various grits of paper I realized a problem. There were two small deep gouges/scratches directly in front of the mouth opening. This is the part of the plane that many plane users say is crucial to be dead flat. After close inspection I realized that these gouges were to deep to be removed by lapping the sole. I lapped the sole as flat as I could and called it good. Once the plane was done I spent a great deal of time flattening the blade and squaring it. I put a new 25 degree bevel on it with a 29 degree secondary and 31 degree third bevel as well as the ruler trick on the back.
> 
> The last photos show the plane shavings that I took off a piece of Walnut. I was able to produce very fine, full width shavings and guess what? The area in front of the mouth was not "dead flat". With that said I now ask is it really all that crucial to have that part of the sole dead flat?


Sweet restoration! Very nice job. Awesome shavings coming out the mouth of that puppy.


----------



## Dwain

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey # 7 complete restore w pics!*
> 
> Ahhhh the No. 7 my toughest and most challenging restoration yet. I won this big hunk of rusted metal off Ebay for 38.00. Thats a rather good deal when you look at what most No. 7 planes sell for on Ebay.
> 
> This plane was in worse shape then any of other bench planes I had restored. It was covered in rust, had countless dings and scratches all over the sides and bottom and the front knob was an obvious home made replacement. On the bright side most all of the original japanning was rusted right off of the body so it didn't take me long to strip the old finish. The first thing I did as I do with all my restorations is scrub clean the entire plane wipe it dry then soak it over night in EvapoRust. As much rust as this plane had I was surprised to find that the EvapoRust took all of the rust off. I really cant express enough how great that product works. Once out of the EvapoRust I scrubbed it down again with an abrasive pad and washed it clean.
> 
> The next step I take is to lap and or clean the sides of the plane. I like to do this before I repaint the plane so that the new paint job doesn't get all that junk on it. This was a bit of a challenge due to the size of this plane. The piece of plate glass that I have for lapping was not quite large enough so I had to do the best I could with what I had. My goal here was not really to get the sides flat but rather to remove as many of the dings and scratches as I could. I lapped it as flat as I could or wanted to and then finished sanding the sides by hand. This part took a long time and there were a few times I was ready to call it good but I tend to be a perfectionist and I wanted to get it as perfect as I could. I never did get it perfect as you can still see some dings on the sides but its a TON better then it was when I started. I wish I had a better before picture showing the damaged sides.
> 
> Once the sides were finished I stripped the rest of the paint using a wire brush on my drill press. I then masked the plane and re-painted it using the spray paint and primer shown in the photo. I think I applied 5 or 6 coats of the finish paint. As that was drying I restored, cleaned and tuned the rest of the metal plane parts using the methods I have described in my earlier blogs.
> 
> The back handle was broken off at the top but I can live with that. The front knob on the other hand HAD to go. Although it would have worked just fine as a user handle I wanted the plane to match my others. I ended up snagging a rosewood knob off another one of my restoration plane projects. Its always nice to have other planes on hand for parts.
> 
> Once that was all finished I put her back together and started lapping the sole. Once again, this part took a long time as the bottom also had a lot of dings and deep scratches. After lapping the sole for a couple hours with various grits of paper I realized a problem. There were two small deep gouges/scratches directly in front of the mouth opening. This is the part of the plane that many plane users say is crucial to be dead flat. After close inspection I realized that these gouges were to deep to be removed by lapping the sole. I lapped the sole as flat as I could and called it good. Once the plane was done I spent a great deal of time flattening the blade and squaring it. I put a new 25 degree bevel on it with a 29 degree secondary and 31 degree third bevel as well as the ruler trick on the back.
> 
> The last photos show the plane shavings that I took off a piece of Walnut. I was able to produce very fine, full width shavings and guess what? The area in front of the mouth was not "dead flat". With that said I now ask is it really all that crucial to have that part of the sole dead flat?


Dan,

Great work on that restoration. You will have a fleet of planes in no time. AS to your question on flatness, I don't think it is as crucial on anything but your smoother plane. I would suggest that the 3,4,4 1/2 and 5 or 5 1/2 (whatever you use for smoothing) should be as flat as possible. Of course, if you are using a plane for shooting, it should be as flat as possible also.

From what I have heard, only the toe, heel and the space behind the iron need to be flat. I thought the area in front of the iron needed to be flat, but that doesn't seem to be the case.

I REALLY like the new and improved front knob. What size plane did that come off of? I personally prefer the low knob myself, but there is not arguing that the rosewood is beautiful.

You may want to try to recreate a tote for one of your planes. Lee Valley has plans just for this purpose. I printed a few out and have in mind to make a couple of totes and knobs out of a block of Bubinga I have. Tradition, HA!

So when do you start with the 8?

Again, you are doing great work!

Dwain


----------



## canadianchips

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey # 7 complete restore w pics!*
> 
> Ahhhh the No. 7 my toughest and most challenging restoration yet. I won this big hunk of rusted metal off Ebay for 38.00. Thats a rather good deal when you look at what most No. 7 planes sell for on Ebay.
> 
> This plane was in worse shape then any of other bench planes I had restored. It was covered in rust, had countless dings and scratches all over the sides and bottom and the front knob was an obvious home made replacement. On the bright side most all of the original japanning was rusted right off of the body so it didn't take me long to strip the old finish. The first thing I did as I do with all my restorations is scrub clean the entire plane wipe it dry then soak it over night in EvapoRust. As much rust as this plane had I was surprised to find that the EvapoRust took all of the rust off. I really cant express enough how great that product works. Once out of the EvapoRust I scrubbed it down again with an abrasive pad and washed it clean.
> 
> The next step I take is to lap and or clean the sides of the plane. I like to do this before I repaint the plane so that the new paint job doesn't get all that junk on it. This was a bit of a challenge due to the size of this plane. The piece of plate glass that I have for lapping was not quite large enough so I had to do the best I could with what I had. My goal here was not really to get the sides flat but rather to remove as many of the dings and scratches as I could. I lapped it as flat as I could or wanted to and then finished sanding the sides by hand. This part took a long time and there were a few times I was ready to call it good but I tend to be a perfectionist and I wanted to get it as perfect as I could. I never did get it perfect as you can still see some dings on the sides but its a TON better then it was when I started. I wish I had a better before picture showing the damaged sides.
> 
> Once the sides were finished I stripped the rest of the paint using a wire brush on my drill press. I then masked the plane and re-painted it using the spray paint and primer shown in the photo. I think I applied 5 or 6 coats of the finish paint. As that was drying I restored, cleaned and tuned the rest of the metal plane parts using the methods I have described in my earlier blogs.
> 
> The back handle was broken off at the top but I can live with that. The front knob on the other hand HAD to go. Although it would have worked just fine as a user handle I wanted the plane to match my others. I ended up snagging a rosewood knob off another one of my restoration plane projects. Its always nice to have other planes on hand for parts.
> 
> Once that was all finished I put her back together and started lapping the sole. Once again, this part took a long time as the bottom also had a lot of dings and deep scratches. After lapping the sole for a couple hours with various grits of paper I realized a problem. There were two small deep gouges/scratches directly in front of the mouth opening. This is the part of the plane that many plane users say is crucial to be dead flat. After close inspection I realized that these gouges were to deep to be removed by lapping the sole. I lapped the sole as flat as I could and called it good. Once the plane was done I spent a great deal of time flattening the blade and squaring it. I put a new 25 degree bevel on it with a 29 degree secondary and 31 degree third bevel as well as the ruler trick on the back.
> 
> The last photos show the plane shavings that I took off a piece of Walnut. I was able to produce very fine, full width shavings and guess what? The area in front of the mouth was not "dead flat". With that said I now ask is it really all that crucial to have that part of the sole dead flat?


Good Find . Very nice restoration. The cleaned and finish look is MUCH nicer than the neglected tool it was.
Everyone is obsessed with the bottoms being perfectly flat, YOUR shavings maybe tell us that isn't necessary.
(Looks aren't everything)


----------



## swirt

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey # 7 complete restore w pics!*
> 
> Ahhhh the No. 7 my toughest and most challenging restoration yet. I won this big hunk of rusted metal off Ebay for 38.00. Thats a rather good deal when you look at what most No. 7 planes sell for on Ebay.
> 
> This plane was in worse shape then any of other bench planes I had restored. It was covered in rust, had countless dings and scratches all over the sides and bottom and the front knob was an obvious home made replacement. On the bright side most all of the original japanning was rusted right off of the body so it didn't take me long to strip the old finish. The first thing I did as I do with all my restorations is scrub clean the entire plane wipe it dry then soak it over night in EvapoRust. As much rust as this plane had I was surprised to find that the EvapoRust took all of the rust off. I really cant express enough how great that product works. Once out of the EvapoRust I scrubbed it down again with an abrasive pad and washed it clean.
> 
> The next step I take is to lap and or clean the sides of the plane. I like to do this before I repaint the plane so that the new paint job doesn't get all that junk on it. This was a bit of a challenge due to the size of this plane. The piece of plate glass that I have for lapping was not quite large enough so I had to do the best I could with what I had. My goal here was not really to get the sides flat but rather to remove as many of the dings and scratches as I could. I lapped it as flat as I could or wanted to and then finished sanding the sides by hand. This part took a long time and there were a few times I was ready to call it good but I tend to be a perfectionist and I wanted to get it as perfect as I could. I never did get it perfect as you can still see some dings on the sides but its a TON better then it was when I started. I wish I had a better before picture showing the damaged sides.
> 
> Once the sides were finished I stripped the rest of the paint using a wire brush on my drill press. I then masked the plane and re-painted it using the spray paint and primer shown in the photo. I think I applied 5 or 6 coats of the finish paint. As that was drying I restored, cleaned and tuned the rest of the metal plane parts using the methods I have described in my earlier blogs.
> 
> The back handle was broken off at the top but I can live with that. The front knob on the other hand HAD to go. Although it would have worked just fine as a user handle I wanted the plane to match my others. I ended up snagging a rosewood knob off another one of my restoration plane projects. Its always nice to have other planes on hand for parts.
> 
> Once that was all finished I put her back together and started lapping the sole. Once again, this part took a long time as the bottom also had a lot of dings and deep scratches. After lapping the sole for a couple hours with various grits of paper I realized a problem. There were two small deep gouges/scratches directly in front of the mouth opening. This is the part of the plane that many plane users say is crucial to be dead flat. After close inspection I realized that these gouges were to deep to be removed by lapping the sole. I lapped the sole as flat as I could and called it good. Once the plane was done I spent a great deal of time flattening the blade and squaring it. I put a new 25 degree bevel on it with a 29 degree secondary and 31 degree third bevel as well as the ruler trick on the back.
> 
> The last photos show the plane shavings that I took off a piece of Walnut. I was able to produce very fine, full width shavings and guess what? The area in front of the mouth was not "dead flat". With that said I now ask is it really all that crucial to have that part of the sole dead flat?


Came out real nice Dan. I have a #7 of similar vintage and I have to say yours looks a lot better with that new paint job. Something I'll have to consider doing once the outside temperatures let me go out and spraypaint.


----------



## Bertha

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey # 7 complete restore w pics!*
> 
> Ahhhh the No. 7 my toughest and most challenging restoration yet. I won this big hunk of rusted metal off Ebay for 38.00. Thats a rather good deal when you look at what most No. 7 planes sell for on Ebay.
> 
> This plane was in worse shape then any of other bench planes I had restored. It was covered in rust, had countless dings and scratches all over the sides and bottom and the front knob was an obvious home made replacement. On the bright side most all of the original japanning was rusted right off of the body so it didn't take me long to strip the old finish. The first thing I did as I do with all my restorations is scrub clean the entire plane wipe it dry then soak it over night in EvapoRust. As much rust as this plane had I was surprised to find that the EvapoRust took all of the rust off. I really cant express enough how great that product works. Once out of the EvapoRust I scrubbed it down again with an abrasive pad and washed it clean.
> 
> The next step I take is to lap and or clean the sides of the plane. I like to do this before I repaint the plane so that the new paint job doesn't get all that junk on it. This was a bit of a challenge due to the size of this plane. The piece of plate glass that I have for lapping was not quite large enough so I had to do the best I could with what I had. My goal here was not really to get the sides flat but rather to remove as many of the dings and scratches as I could. I lapped it as flat as I could or wanted to and then finished sanding the sides by hand. This part took a long time and there were a few times I was ready to call it good but I tend to be a perfectionist and I wanted to get it as perfect as I could. I never did get it perfect as you can still see some dings on the sides but its a TON better then it was when I started. I wish I had a better before picture showing the damaged sides.
> 
> Once the sides were finished I stripped the rest of the paint using a wire brush on my drill press. I then masked the plane and re-painted it using the spray paint and primer shown in the photo. I think I applied 5 or 6 coats of the finish paint. As that was drying I restored, cleaned and tuned the rest of the metal plane parts using the methods I have described in my earlier blogs.
> 
> The back handle was broken off at the top but I can live with that. The front knob on the other hand HAD to go. Although it would have worked just fine as a user handle I wanted the plane to match my others. I ended up snagging a rosewood knob off another one of my restoration plane projects. Its always nice to have other planes on hand for parts.
> 
> Once that was all finished I put her back together and started lapping the sole. Once again, this part took a long time as the bottom also had a lot of dings and deep scratches. After lapping the sole for a couple hours with various grits of paper I realized a problem. There were two small deep gouges/scratches directly in front of the mouth opening. This is the part of the plane that many plane users say is crucial to be dead flat. After close inspection I realized that these gouges were to deep to be removed by lapping the sole. I lapped the sole as flat as I could and called it good. Once the plane was done I spent a great deal of time flattening the blade and squaring it. I put a new 25 degree bevel on it with a 29 degree secondary and 31 degree third bevel as well as the ruler trick on the back.
> 
> The last photos show the plane shavings that I took off a piece of Walnut. I was able to produce very fine, full width shavings and guess what? The area in front of the mouth was not "dead flat". With that said I now ask is it really all that crucial to have that part of the sole dead flat?


I've never been insanely meticulous about the flatness of my rehab planes. I'll of course avoid a plane with visible twist but after knocking down any high points, they peform reasonably well. I'm usually more worried about a little nub that'll drag down my project. Making totes can be tedious but it can be a lot of fun too. I dreaded the process until I got a set of microplanes & some appropriate rasps for my Foredom. You can really knock them out pretty quickly & fit them perfectly to your hand. You can make a very close reproduction if that's more your style. I like Wenge for smaller planes & rosewood for larger ones. Bubinga's a really cool choice!


----------



## Tangle

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey # 7 complete restore w pics!*
> 
> Ahhhh the No. 7 my toughest and most challenging restoration yet. I won this big hunk of rusted metal off Ebay for 38.00. Thats a rather good deal when you look at what most No. 7 planes sell for on Ebay.
> 
> This plane was in worse shape then any of other bench planes I had restored. It was covered in rust, had countless dings and scratches all over the sides and bottom and the front knob was an obvious home made replacement. On the bright side most all of the original japanning was rusted right off of the body so it didn't take me long to strip the old finish. The first thing I did as I do with all my restorations is scrub clean the entire plane wipe it dry then soak it over night in EvapoRust. As much rust as this plane had I was surprised to find that the EvapoRust took all of the rust off. I really cant express enough how great that product works. Once out of the EvapoRust I scrubbed it down again with an abrasive pad and washed it clean.
> 
> The next step I take is to lap and or clean the sides of the plane. I like to do this before I repaint the plane so that the new paint job doesn't get all that junk on it. This was a bit of a challenge due to the size of this plane. The piece of plate glass that I have for lapping was not quite large enough so I had to do the best I could with what I had. My goal here was not really to get the sides flat but rather to remove as many of the dings and scratches as I could. I lapped it as flat as I could or wanted to and then finished sanding the sides by hand. This part took a long time and there were a few times I was ready to call it good but I tend to be a perfectionist and I wanted to get it as perfect as I could. I never did get it perfect as you can still see some dings on the sides but its a TON better then it was when I started. I wish I had a better before picture showing the damaged sides.
> 
> Once the sides were finished I stripped the rest of the paint using a wire brush on my drill press. I then masked the plane and re-painted it using the spray paint and primer shown in the photo. I think I applied 5 or 6 coats of the finish paint. As that was drying I restored, cleaned and tuned the rest of the metal plane parts using the methods I have described in my earlier blogs.
> 
> The back handle was broken off at the top but I can live with that. The front knob on the other hand HAD to go. Although it would have worked just fine as a user handle I wanted the plane to match my others. I ended up snagging a rosewood knob off another one of my restoration plane projects. Its always nice to have other planes on hand for parts.
> 
> Once that was all finished I put her back together and started lapping the sole. Once again, this part took a long time as the bottom also had a lot of dings and deep scratches. After lapping the sole for a couple hours with various grits of paper I realized a problem. There were two small deep gouges/scratches directly in front of the mouth opening. This is the part of the plane that many plane users say is crucial to be dead flat. After close inspection I realized that these gouges were to deep to be removed by lapping the sole. I lapped the sole as flat as I could and called it good. Once the plane was done I spent a great deal of time flattening the blade and squaring it. I put a new 25 degree bevel on it with a 29 degree secondary and 31 degree third bevel as well as the ruler trick on the back.
> 
> The last photos show the plane shavings that I took off a piece of Walnut. I was able to produce very fine, full width shavings and guess what? The area in front of the mouth was not "dead flat". With that said I now ask is it really all that crucial to have that part of the sole dead flat?


The gouges on the bottom of the sole won't have any effect as long as you lapped the whole length of the sole. Witness the corrigated soles on many planes.


----------



## BigTiny

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey # 7 complete restore w pics!*
> 
> Ahhhh the No. 7 my toughest and most challenging restoration yet. I won this big hunk of rusted metal off Ebay for 38.00. Thats a rather good deal when you look at what most No. 7 planes sell for on Ebay.
> 
> This plane was in worse shape then any of other bench planes I had restored. It was covered in rust, had countless dings and scratches all over the sides and bottom and the front knob was an obvious home made replacement. On the bright side most all of the original japanning was rusted right off of the body so it didn't take me long to strip the old finish. The first thing I did as I do with all my restorations is scrub clean the entire plane wipe it dry then soak it over night in EvapoRust. As much rust as this plane had I was surprised to find that the EvapoRust took all of the rust off. I really cant express enough how great that product works. Once out of the EvapoRust I scrubbed it down again with an abrasive pad and washed it clean.
> 
> The next step I take is to lap and or clean the sides of the plane. I like to do this before I repaint the plane so that the new paint job doesn't get all that junk on it. This was a bit of a challenge due to the size of this plane. The piece of plate glass that I have for lapping was not quite large enough so I had to do the best I could with what I had. My goal here was not really to get the sides flat but rather to remove as many of the dings and scratches as I could. I lapped it as flat as I could or wanted to and then finished sanding the sides by hand. This part took a long time and there were a few times I was ready to call it good but I tend to be a perfectionist and I wanted to get it as perfect as I could. I never did get it perfect as you can still see some dings on the sides but its a TON better then it was when I started. I wish I had a better before picture showing the damaged sides.
> 
> Once the sides were finished I stripped the rest of the paint using a wire brush on my drill press. I then masked the plane and re-painted it using the spray paint and primer shown in the photo. I think I applied 5 or 6 coats of the finish paint. As that was drying I restored, cleaned and tuned the rest of the metal plane parts using the methods I have described in my earlier blogs.
> 
> The back handle was broken off at the top but I can live with that. The front knob on the other hand HAD to go. Although it would have worked just fine as a user handle I wanted the plane to match my others. I ended up snagging a rosewood knob off another one of my restoration plane projects. Its always nice to have other planes on hand for parts.
> 
> Once that was all finished I put her back together and started lapping the sole. Once again, this part took a long time as the bottom also had a lot of dings and deep scratches. After lapping the sole for a couple hours with various grits of paper I realized a problem. There were two small deep gouges/scratches directly in front of the mouth opening. This is the part of the plane that many plane users say is crucial to be dead flat. After close inspection I realized that these gouges were to deep to be removed by lapping the sole. I lapped the sole as flat as I could and called it good. Once the plane was done I spent a great deal of time flattening the blade and squaring it. I put a new 25 degree bevel on it with a 29 degree secondary and 31 degree third bevel as well as the ruler trick on the back.
> 
> The last photos show the plane shavings that I took off a piece of Walnut. I was able to produce very fine, full width shavings and guess what? The area in front of the mouth was not "dead flat". With that said I now ask is it really all that crucial to have that part of the sole dead flat?


Of course you must know how much I envy you with that lovely job rehabbing that great piece of woodworking tool.


----------



## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey # 7 complete restore w pics!*
> 
> Ahhhh the No. 7 my toughest and most challenging restoration yet. I won this big hunk of rusted metal off Ebay for 38.00. Thats a rather good deal when you look at what most No. 7 planes sell for on Ebay.
> 
> This plane was in worse shape then any of other bench planes I had restored. It was covered in rust, had countless dings and scratches all over the sides and bottom and the front knob was an obvious home made replacement. On the bright side most all of the original japanning was rusted right off of the body so it didn't take me long to strip the old finish. The first thing I did as I do with all my restorations is scrub clean the entire plane wipe it dry then soak it over night in EvapoRust. As much rust as this plane had I was surprised to find that the EvapoRust took all of the rust off. I really cant express enough how great that product works. Once out of the EvapoRust I scrubbed it down again with an abrasive pad and washed it clean.
> 
> The next step I take is to lap and or clean the sides of the plane. I like to do this before I repaint the plane so that the new paint job doesn't get all that junk on it. This was a bit of a challenge due to the size of this plane. The piece of plate glass that I have for lapping was not quite large enough so I had to do the best I could with what I had. My goal here was not really to get the sides flat but rather to remove as many of the dings and scratches as I could. I lapped it as flat as I could or wanted to and then finished sanding the sides by hand. This part took a long time and there were a few times I was ready to call it good but I tend to be a perfectionist and I wanted to get it as perfect as I could. I never did get it perfect as you can still see some dings on the sides but its a TON better then it was when I started. I wish I had a better before picture showing the damaged sides.
> 
> Once the sides were finished I stripped the rest of the paint using a wire brush on my drill press. I then masked the plane and re-painted it using the spray paint and primer shown in the photo. I think I applied 5 or 6 coats of the finish paint. As that was drying I restored, cleaned and tuned the rest of the metal plane parts using the methods I have described in my earlier blogs.
> 
> The back handle was broken off at the top but I can live with that. The front knob on the other hand HAD to go. Although it would have worked just fine as a user handle I wanted the plane to match my others. I ended up snagging a rosewood knob off another one of my restoration plane projects. Its always nice to have other planes on hand for parts.
> 
> Once that was all finished I put her back together and started lapping the sole. Once again, this part took a long time as the bottom also had a lot of dings and deep scratches. After lapping the sole for a couple hours with various grits of paper I realized a problem. There were two small deep gouges/scratches directly in front of the mouth opening. This is the part of the plane that many plane users say is crucial to be dead flat. After close inspection I realized that these gouges were to deep to be removed by lapping the sole. I lapped the sole as flat as I could and called it good. Once the plane was done I spent a great deal of time flattening the blade and squaring it. I put a new 25 degree bevel on it with a 29 degree secondary and 31 degree third bevel as well as the ruler trick on the back.
> 
> The last photos show the plane shavings that I took off a piece of Walnut. I was able to produce very fine, full width shavings and guess what? The area in front of the mouth was not "dead flat". With that said I now ask is it really all that crucial to have that part of the sole dead flat?


Dwain - I also like the low knob over the high one. I am almost positive that the original knob for this plane was a low knob as its an earlier model. I am almost sure this plane is a type 10. I have a couple planes that are stamped Wards Master and they are identical to the Stanley Bailey planes. They have the same brass nuts, adjustment wheel and the rosewood handles. I got these planes off ebay for a few dollars. I have used many of the parts off those planes so I am thinking thats where I got the front knob. If I ever run into an extra low knob I will change it.

I actually have the pattern/plans to make the tote. I want to say it was in one of the shopnotes or woodsmith magazines. I was going to make one before, I went so far as to cut the pattern out and make several copies of it on the copy machine. I just have yet to actually do it. I think I will make some soon though. I have seen some guys use a really nice figured light wood for their handles and totes and I thought the contrast was really cool. I have seen someone use curly maple and someone use spalted maple. It really jumped out and looked interesting.


----------



## Kentuk55

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey # 7 complete restore w pics!*
> 
> Ahhhh the No. 7 my toughest and most challenging restoration yet. I won this big hunk of rusted metal off Ebay for 38.00. Thats a rather good deal when you look at what most No. 7 planes sell for on Ebay.
> 
> This plane was in worse shape then any of other bench planes I had restored. It was covered in rust, had countless dings and scratches all over the sides and bottom and the front knob was an obvious home made replacement. On the bright side most all of the original japanning was rusted right off of the body so it didn't take me long to strip the old finish. The first thing I did as I do with all my restorations is scrub clean the entire plane wipe it dry then soak it over night in EvapoRust. As much rust as this plane had I was surprised to find that the EvapoRust took all of the rust off. I really cant express enough how great that product works. Once out of the EvapoRust I scrubbed it down again with an abrasive pad and washed it clean.
> 
> The next step I take is to lap and or clean the sides of the plane. I like to do this before I repaint the plane so that the new paint job doesn't get all that junk on it. This was a bit of a challenge due to the size of this plane. The piece of plate glass that I have for lapping was not quite large enough so I had to do the best I could with what I had. My goal here was not really to get the sides flat but rather to remove as many of the dings and scratches as I could. I lapped it as flat as I could or wanted to and then finished sanding the sides by hand. This part took a long time and there were a few times I was ready to call it good but I tend to be a perfectionist and I wanted to get it as perfect as I could. I never did get it perfect as you can still see some dings on the sides but its a TON better then it was when I started. I wish I had a better before picture showing the damaged sides.
> 
> Once the sides were finished I stripped the rest of the paint using a wire brush on my drill press. I then masked the plane and re-painted it using the spray paint and primer shown in the photo. I think I applied 5 or 6 coats of the finish paint. As that was drying I restored, cleaned and tuned the rest of the metal plane parts using the methods I have described in my earlier blogs.
> 
> The back handle was broken off at the top but I can live with that. The front knob on the other hand HAD to go. Although it would have worked just fine as a user handle I wanted the plane to match my others. I ended up snagging a rosewood knob off another one of my restoration plane projects. Its always nice to have other planes on hand for parts.
> 
> Once that was all finished I put her back together and started lapping the sole. Once again, this part took a long time as the bottom also had a lot of dings and deep scratches. After lapping the sole for a couple hours with various grits of paper I realized a problem. There were two small deep gouges/scratches directly in front of the mouth opening. This is the part of the plane that many plane users say is crucial to be dead flat. After close inspection I realized that these gouges were to deep to be removed by lapping the sole. I lapped the sole as flat as I could and called it good. Once the plane was done I spent a great deal of time flattening the blade and squaring it. I put a new 25 degree bevel on it with a 29 degree secondary and 31 degree third bevel as well as the ruler trick on the back.
> 
> The last photos show the plane shavings that I took off a piece of Walnut. I was able to produce very fine, full width shavings and guess what? The area in front of the mouth was not "dead flat". With that said I now ask is it really all that crucial to have that part of the sole dead flat?


really really nice restore


----------



## superdav721

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey # 7 complete restore w pics!*
> 
> Ahhhh the No. 7 my toughest and most challenging restoration yet. I won this big hunk of rusted metal off Ebay for 38.00. Thats a rather good deal when you look at what most No. 7 planes sell for on Ebay.
> 
> This plane was in worse shape then any of other bench planes I had restored. It was covered in rust, had countless dings and scratches all over the sides and bottom and the front knob was an obvious home made replacement. On the bright side most all of the original japanning was rusted right off of the body so it didn't take me long to strip the old finish. The first thing I did as I do with all my restorations is scrub clean the entire plane wipe it dry then soak it over night in EvapoRust. As much rust as this plane had I was surprised to find that the EvapoRust took all of the rust off. I really cant express enough how great that product works. Once out of the EvapoRust I scrubbed it down again with an abrasive pad and washed it clean.
> 
> The next step I take is to lap and or clean the sides of the plane. I like to do this before I repaint the plane so that the new paint job doesn't get all that junk on it. This was a bit of a challenge due to the size of this plane. The piece of plate glass that I have for lapping was not quite large enough so I had to do the best I could with what I had. My goal here was not really to get the sides flat but rather to remove as many of the dings and scratches as I could. I lapped it as flat as I could or wanted to and then finished sanding the sides by hand. This part took a long time and there were a few times I was ready to call it good but I tend to be a perfectionist and I wanted to get it as perfect as I could. I never did get it perfect as you can still see some dings on the sides but its a TON better then it was when I started. I wish I had a better before picture showing the damaged sides.
> 
> Once the sides were finished I stripped the rest of the paint using a wire brush on my drill press. I then masked the plane and re-painted it using the spray paint and primer shown in the photo. I think I applied 5 or 6 coats of the finish paint. As that was drying I restored, cleaned and tuned the rest of the metal plane parts using the methods I have described in my earlier blogs.
> 
> The back handle was broken off at the top but I can live with that. The front knob on the other hand HAD to go. Although it would have worked just fine as a user handle I wanted the plane to match my others. I ended up snagging a rosewood knob off another one of my restoration plane projects. Its always nice to have other planes on hand for parts.
> 
> Once that was all finished I put her back together and started lapping the sole. Once again, this part took a long time as the bottom also had a lot of dings and deep scratches. After lapping the sole for a couple hours with various grits of paper I realized a problem. There were two small deep gouges/scratches directly in front of the mouth opening. This is the part of the plane that many plane users say is crucial to be dead flat. After close inspection I realized that these gouges were to deep to be removed by lapping the sole. I lapped the sole as flat as I could and called it good. Once the plane was done I spent a great deal of time flattening the blade and squaring it. I put a new 25 degree bevel on it with a 29 degree secondary and 31 degree third bevel as well as the ruler trick on the back.
> 
> The last photos show the plane shavings that I took off a piece of Walnut. I was able to produce very fine, full width shavings and guess what? The area in front of the mouth was not "dead flat". With that said I now ask is it really all that crucial to have that part of the sole dead flat?


I love what you are doing. Keep it up. 
When I see a tool put back to the point of being a user. I think of the person that used there hard earned money to purchase it. I think of the projects they produced. I think of them passing it down to there children. I think of the quality of workmanship it took to produce the tool. We are missing that a lot now in these days. When something breaks we generally toss it away and go buy another. 
Keep refurbishing and pass the knowledge on to that wee one I see you holding.


----------



## dirtbagchaser

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey # 7 complete restore w pics!*
> 
> Ahhhh the No. 7 my toughest and most challenging restoration yet. I won this big hunk of rusted metal off Ebay for 38.00. Thats a rather good deal when you look at what most No. 7 planes sell for on Ebay.
> 
> This plane was in worse shape then any of other bench planes I had restored. It was covered in rust, had countless dings and scratches all over the sides and bottom and the front knob was an obvious home made replacement. On the bright side most all of the original japanning was rusted right off of the body so it didn't take me long to strip the old finish. The first thing I did as I do with all my restorations is scrub clean the entire plane wipe it dry then soak it over night in EvapoRust. As much rust as this plane had I was surprised to find that the EvapoRust took all of the rust off. I really cant express enough how great that product works. Once out of the EvapoRust I scrubbed it down again with an abrasive pad and washed it clean.
> 
> The next step I take is to lap and or clean the sides of the plane. I like to do this before I repaint the plane so that the new paint job doesn't get all that junk on it. This was a bit of a challenge due to the size of this plane. The piece of plate glass that I have for lapping was not quite large enough so I had to do the best I could with what I had. My goal here was not really to get the sides flat but rather to remove as many of the dings and scratches as I could. I lapped it as flat as I could or wanted to and then finished sanding the sides by hand. This part took a long time and there were a few times I was ready to call it good but I tend to be a perfectionist and I wanted to get it as perfect as I could. I never did get it perfect as you can still see some dings on the sides but its a TON better then it was when I started. I wish I had a better before picture showing the damaged sides.
> 
> Once the sides were finished I stripped the rest of the paint using a wire brush on my drill press. I then masked the plane and re-painted it using the spray paint and primer shown in the photo. I think I applied 5 or 6 coats of the finish paint. As that was drying I restored, cleaned and tuned the rest of the metal plane parts using the methods I have described in my earlier blogs.
> 
> The back handle was broken off at the top but I can live with that. The front knob on the other hand HAD to go. Although it would have worked just fine as a user handle I wanted the plane to match my others. I ended up snagging a rosewood knob off another one of my restoration plane projects. Its always nice to have other planes on hand for parts.
> 
> Once that was all finished I put her back together and started lapping the sole. Once again, this part took a long time as the bottom also had a lot of dings and deep scratches. After lapping the sole for a couple hours with various grits of paper I realized a problem. There were two small deep gouges/scratches directly in front of the mouth opening. This is the part of the plane that many plane users say is crucial to be dead flat. After close inspection I realized that these gouges were to deep to be removed by lapping the sole. I lapped the sole as flat as I could and called it good. Once the plane was done I spent a great deal of time flattening the blade and squaring it. I put a new 25 degree bevel on it with a 29 degree secondary and 31 degree third bevel as well as the ruler trick on the back.
> 
> The last photos show the plane shavings that I took off a piece of Walnut. I was able to produce very fine, full width shavings and guess what? The area in front of the mouth was not "dead flat". With that said I now ask is it really all that crucial to have that part of the sole dead flat?


I perform a similar restoration on my "flea market finds". A good cleaning, touch up with wire wheel and brushes, some sandin and flattening to bring it true. I go a few steps further, I always take care of my handle by replacing it with a spare, gluing on a new piece and matching the wood with various stains or fabricating a new one. Some tight grain cherry or beech can make a nice tote handle. The last thing that I do, which I leave as a recommendation to you is to polish and buff all the brass. For a few bucks you can buy a buffing spindle and some buffing rouge for your drill press. I sand all the brass screws, adjustment knob and some other visible parts with 200-400 grit paper then touch up up on the buffing wheel to bring a very shiny finish. Give it a try and I think you will really enjoy the results after you step back and look at it.


----------



## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey # 7 complete restore w pics!*
> 
> Ahhhh the No. 7 my toughest and most challenging restoration yet. I won this big hunk of rusted metal off Ebay for 38.00. Thats a rather good deal when you look at what most No. 7 planes sell for on Ebay.
> 
> This plane was in worse shape then any of other bench planes I had restored. It was covered in rust, had countless dings and scratches all over the sides and bottom and the front knob was an obvious home made replacement. On the bright side most all of the original japanning was rusted right off of the body so it didn't take me long to strip the old finish. The first thing I did as I do with all my restorations is scrub clean the entire plane wipe it dry then soak it over night in EvapoRust. As much rust as this plane had I was surprised to find that the EvapoRust took all of the rust off. I really cant express enough how great that product works. Once out of the EvapoRust I scrubbed it down again with an abrasive pad and washed it clean.
> 
> The next step I take is to lap and or clean the sides of the plane. I like to do this before I repaint the plane so that the new paint job doesn't get all that junk on it. This was a bit of a challenge due to the size of this plane. The piece of plate glass that I have for lapping was not quite large enough so I had to do the best I could with what I had. My goal here was not really to get the sides flat but rather to remove as many of the dings and scratches as I could. I lapped it as flat as I could or wanted to and then finished sanding the sides by hand. This part took a long time and there were a few times I was ready to call it good but I tend to be a perfectionist and I wanted to get it as perfect as I could. I never did get it perfect as you can still see some dings on the sides but its a TON better then it was when I started. I wish I had a better before picture showing the damaged sides.
> 
> Once the sides were finished I stripped the rest of the paint using a wire brush on my drill press. I then masked the plane and re-painted it using the spray paint and primer shown in the photo. I think I applied 5 or 6 coats of the finish paint. As that was drying I restored, cleaned and tuned the rest of the metal plane parts using the methods I have described in my earlier blogs.
> 
> The back handle was broken off at the top but I can live with that. The front knob on the other hand HAD to go. Although it would have worked just fine as a user handle I wanted the plane to match my others. I ended up snagging a rosewood knob off another one of my restoration plane projects. Its always nice to have other planes on hand for parts.
> 
> Once that was all finished I put her back together and started lapping the sole. Once again, this part took a long time as the bottom also had a lot of dings and deep scratches. After lapping the sole for a couple hours with various grits of paper I realized a problem. There were two small deep gouges/scratches directly in front of the mouth opening. This is the part of the plane that many plane users say is crucial to be dead flat. After close inspection I realized that these gouges were to deep to be removed by lapping the sole. I lapped the sole as flat as I could and called it good. Once the plane was done I spent a great deal of time flattening the blade and squaring it. I put a new 25 degree bevel on it with a 29 degree secondary and 31 degree third bevel as well as the ruler trick on the back.
> 
> The last photos show the plane shavings that I took off a piece of Walnut. I was able to produce very fine, full width shavings and guess what? The area in front of the mouth was not "dead flat". With that said I now ask is it really all that crucial to have that part of the sole dead flat?


dirtbagchaser- I do spend quite a bit of time on the brass. I have another blog on here a while back where I go into detail about how I clean the brass. I do pretty much what you recommended. I rarely use a power buffer on the brass though and if I do I use my dremmel tool with the buffing and wire brush attachments.


----------



## Donnerboy

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey # 7 complete restore w pics!*
> 
> Ahhhh the No. 7 my toughest and most challenging restoration yet. I won this big hunk of rusted metal off Ebay for 38.00. Thats a rather good deal when you look at what most No. 7 planes sell for on Ebay.
> 
> This plane was in worse shape then any of other bench planes I had restored. It was covered in rust, had countless dings and scratches all over the sides and bottom and the front knob was an obvious home made replacement. On the bright side most all of the original japanning was rusted right off of the body so it didn't take me long to strip the old finish. The first thing I did as I do with all my restorations is scrub clean the entire plane wipe it dry then soak it over night in EvapoRust. As much rust as this plane had I was surprised to find that the EvapoRust took all of the rust off. I really cant express enough how great that product works. Once out of the EvapoRust I scrubbed it down again with an abrasive pad and washed it clean.
> 
> The next step I take is to lap and or clean the sides of the plane. I like to do this before I repaint the plane so that the new paint job doesn't get all that junk on it. This was a bit of a challenge due to the size of this plane. The piece of plate glass that I have for lapping was not quite large enough so I had to do the best I could with what I had. My goal here was not really to get the sides flat but rather to remove as many of the dings and scratches as I could. I lapped it as flat as I could or wanted to and then finished sanding the sides by hand. This part took a long time and there were a few times I was ready to call it good but I tend to be a perfectionist and I wanted to get it as perfect as I could. I never did get it perfect as you can still see some dings on the sides but its a TON better then it was when I started. I wish I had a better before picture showing the damaged sides.
> 
> Once the sides were finished I stripped the rest of the paint using a wire brush on my drill press. I then masked the plane and re-painted it using the spray paint and primer shown in the photo. I think I applied 5 or 6 coats of the finish paint. As that was drying I restored, cleaned and tuned the rest of the metal plane parts using the methods I have described in my earlier blogs.
> 
> The back handle was broken off at the top but I can live with that. The front knob on the other hand HAD to go. Although it would have worked just fine as a user handle I wanted the plane to match my others. I ended up snagging a rosewood knob off another one of my restoration plane projects. Its always nice to have other planes on hand for parts.
> 
> Once that was all finished I put her back together and started lapping the sole. Once again, this part took a long time as the bottom also had a lot of dings and deep scratches. After lapping the sole for a couple hours with various grits of paper I realized a problem. There were two small deep gouges/scratches directly in front of the mouth opening. This is the part of the plane that many plane users say is crucial to be dead flat. After close inspection I realized that these gouges were to deep to be removed by lapping the sole. I lapped the sole as flat as I could and called it good. Once the plane was done I spent a great deal of time flattening the blade and squaring it. I put a new 25 degree bevel on it with a 29 degree secondary and 31 degree third bevel as well as the ruler trick on the back.
> 
> The last photos show the plane shavings that I took off a piece of Walnut. I was able to produce very fine, full width shavings and guess what? The area in front of the mouth was not "dead flat". With that said I now ask is it really all that crucial to have that part of the sole dead flat?


It is just plain meditative to see these planes fixed…

But then, there's nothing like a good story of redemption.


----------



## Dcase

*Stanley #103 Block/Pocket Plane restored and upgraded! w pics*

This small pocket sized plane is probably used more then any of the planes in my shop. The plane is what I suppose you could call a cheap plane. The blade depth adjustment is a pain in the ass and the plane chatters and chokes very quickly if your blade is not set just right. However once you get the hang of the blade adjustment and once you know the limits of this plane it is extremely handy for small jobs and touch ups. The planes size make it very easy and comfortable to hold or keep in your pocket. I have found this plane most useful when making small boxes or other smaller projects. It is also very useful for touching up projects that have been assembled where a full size block plane is just to big.

I picked up this plane for a dollar or two but it was in very rough shape. Most guys probably would not have taken the time that I did to bring this cheap plane back to life but I like a challenge. The plane was rusted and covered with over spray from different spray paints. You could tell this was a well used plane. This plane was originally japaned black over the whole body but decided to sand and polish the sides rather then re-painting them. I think it looks a lot better that way. The rest of the body was painted using the same paint and methods that I have discussed in earlier blogs. I also lapped the sole flat as I do with all of my planes.

The only downside with the restoration of this plane was that the blade was shot. The blade was badly pitted from rust and there was no way for it to become usable again. So the search was on for a replacement blade so I could get this plane back to use. I checked a few places and found that Woodcraft had a IBC replacement blade for the 103 sized plane. The blade was expensive but I all ready went this far with this cheap plane so why not go all out. The new blade is a lot thicker so I had to file the mouth of the plane a little bit so that it would take the new blade right.

All in all its a very handy plane that serves its purpose.


----------



## BigTiny

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #103 Block/Pocket Plane restored and upgraded! w pics*
> 
> This small pocket sized plane is probably used more then any of the planes in my shop. The plane is what I suppose you could call a cheap plane. The blade depth adjustment is a pain in the ass and the plane chatters and chokes very quickly if your blade is not set just right. However once you get the hang of the blade adjustment and once you know the limits of this plane it is extremely handy for small jobs and touch ups. The planes size make it very easy and comfortable to hold or keep in your pocket. I have found this plane most useful when making small boxes or other smaller projects. It is also very useful for touching up projects that have been assembled where a full size block plane is just to big.
> 
> I picked up this plane for a dollar or two but it was in very rough shape. Most guys probably would not have taken the time that I did to bring this cheap plane back to life but I like a challenge. The plane was rusted and covered with over spray from different spray paints. You could tell this was a well used plane. This plane was originally japaned black over the whole body but decided to sand and polish the sides rather then re-painting them. I think it looks a lot better that way. The rest of the body was painted using the same paint and methods that I have discussed in earlier blogs. I also lapped the sole flat as I do with all of my planes.
> 
> The only downside with the restoration of this plane was that the blade was shot. The blade was badly pitted from rust and there was no way for it to become usable again. So the search was on for a replacement blade so I could get this plane back to use. I checked a few places and found that Woodcraft had a IBC replacement blade for the 103 sized plane. The blade was expensive but I all ready went this far with this cheap plane so why not go all out. The new blade is a lot thicker so I had to file the mouth of the plane a little bit so that it would take the new blade right.
> 
> All in all its a very handy plane that serves its purpose.


As usual, you've saved an old timer from an undeserved grave. Congrats!


----------



## MikeGager

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #103 Block/Pocket Plane restored and upgraded! w pics*
> 
> This small pocket sized plane is probably used more then any of the planes in my shop. The plane is what I suppose you could call a cheap plane. The blade depth adjustment is a pain in the ass and the plane chatters and chokes very quickly if your blade is not set just right. However once you get the hang of the blade adjustment and once you know the limits of this plane it is extremely handy for small jobs and touch ups. The planes size make it very easy and comfortable to hold or keep in your pocket. I have found this plane most useful when making small boxes or other smaller projects. It is also very useful for touching up projects that have been assembled where a full size block plane is just to big.
> 
> I picked up this plane for a dollar or two but it was in very rough shape. Most guys probably would not have taken the time that I did to bring this cheap plane back to life but I like a challenge. The plane was rusted and covered with over spray from different spray paints. You could tell this was a well used plane. This plane was originally japaned black over the whole body but decided to sand and polish the sides rather then re-painting them. I think it looks a lot better that way. The rest of the body was painted using the same paint and methods that I have discussed in earlier blogs. I also lapped the sole flat as I do with all of my planes.
> 
> The only downside with the restoration of this plane was that the blade was shot. The blade was badly pitted from rust and there was no way for it to become usable again. So the search was on for a replacement blade so I could get this plane back to use. I checked a few places and found that Woodcraft had a IBC replacement blade for the 103 sized plane. The blade was expensive but I all ready went this far with this cheap plane so why not go all out. The new blade is a lot thicker so I had to file the mouth of the plane a little bit so that it would take the new blade right.
> 
> All in all its a very handy plane that serves its purpose.


nice job. ive got a bunch of old planes that need some work. i dont know what any of them are really but your series here has got me wondering about them. i think ill try to fix them up


----------



## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #103 Block/Pocket Plane restored and upgraded! w pics*
> 
> This small pocket sized plane is probably used more then any of the planes in my shop. The plane is what I suppose you could call a cheap plane. The blade depth adjustment is a pain in the ass and the plane chatters and chokes very quickly if your blade is not set just right. However once you get the hang of the blade adjustment and once you know the limits of this plane it is extremely handy for small jobs and touch ups. The planes size make it very easy and comfortable to hold or keep in your pocket. I have found this plane most useful when making small boxes or other smaller projects. It is also very useful for touching up projects that have been assembled where a full size block plane is just to big.
> 
> I picked up this plane for a dollar or two but it was in very rough shape. Most guys probably would not have taken the time that I did to bring this cheap plane back to life but I like a challenge. The plane was rusted and covered with over spray from different spray paints. You could tell this was a well used plane. This plane was originally japaned black over the whole body but decided to sand and polish the sides rather then re-painting them. I think it looks a lot better that way. The rest of the body was painted using the same paint and methods that I have discussed in earlier blogs. I also lapped the sole flat as I do with all of my planes.
> 
> The only downside with the restoration of this plane was that the blade was shot. The blade was badly pitted from rust and there was no way for it to become usable again. So the search was on for a replacement blade so I could get this plane back to use. I checked a few places and found that Woodcraft had a IBC replacement blade for the 103 sized plane. The blade was expensive but I all ready went this far with this cheap plane so why not go all out. The new blade is a lot thicker so I had to file the mouth of the plane a little bit so that it would take the new blade right.
> 
> All in all its a very handy plane that serves its purpose.


Mike- When I first took interest in hand planes I had no clue what the differences were or even how they worked. I had nothing but bad results when I was first using them. Thats what motivated me to learn what they were and how they worked.

I suggest you do fix yours up. Just start by taking one apart cleaning it up a little and learn what the parts are and how they work together. Once you clean and tune a few up you will learn a lot. Its fun and rewarding also.


----------



## Dennisgrosen

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #103 Block/Pocket Plane restored and upgraded! w pics*
> 
> This small pocket sized plane is probably used more then any of the planes in my shop. The plane is what I suppose you could call a cheap plane. The blade depth adjustment is a pain in the ass and the plane chatters and chokes very quickly if your blade is not set just right. However once you get the hang of the blade adjustment and once you know the limits of this plane it is extremely handy for small jobs and touch ups. The planes size make it very easy and comfortable to hold or keep in your pocket. I have found this plane most useful when making small boxes or other smaller projects. It is also very useful for touching up projects that have been assembled where a full size block plane is just to big.
> 
> I picked up this plane for a dollar or two but it was in very rough shape. Most guys probably would not have taken the time that I did to bring this cheap plane back to life but I like a challenge. The plane was rusted and covered with over spray from different spray paints. You could tell this was a well used plane. This plane was originally japaned black over the whole body but decided to sand and polish the sides rather then re-painting them. I think it looks a lot better that way. The rest of the body was painted using the same paint and methods that I have discussed in earlier blogs. I also lapped the sole flat as I do with all of my planes.
> 
> The only downside with the restoration of this plane was that the blade was shot. The blade was badly pitted from rust and there was no way for it to become usable again. So the search was on for a replacement blade so I could get this plane back to use. I checked a few places and found that Woodcraft had a IBC replacement blade for the 103 sized plane. The blade was expensive but I all ready went this far with this cheap plane so why not go all out. The new blade is a lot thicker so I had to file the mouth of the plane a little bit so that it would take the new blade right.
> 
> All in all its a very handy plane that serves its purpose.


maybee its a pain in the … and chathatter with lot of limits 
but from you have in the first picture to the last pictures
I will say …... O la la ! what a sweet dancer you had put on the cabaretscene 

take care
Dennis


----------



## superdav721

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #103 Block/Pocket Plane restored and upgraded! w pics*
> 
> This small pocket sized plane is probably used more then any of the planes in my shop. The plane is what I suppose you could call a cheap plane. The blade depth adjustment is a pain in the ass and the plane chatters and chokes very quickly if your blade is not set just right. However once you get the hang of the blade adjustment and once you know the limits of this plane it is extremely handy for small jobs and touch ups. The planes size make it very easy and comfortable to hold or keep in your pocket. I have found this plane most useful when making small boxes or other smaller projects. It is also very useful for touching up projects that have been assembled where a full size block plane is just to big.
> 
> I picked up this plane for a dollar or two but it was in very rough shape. Most guys probably would not have taken the time that I did to bring this cheap plane back to life but I like a challenge. The plane was rusted and covered with over spray from different spray paints. You could tell this was a well used plane. This plane was originally japaned black over the whole body but decided to sand and polish the sides rather then re-painting them. I think it looks a lot better that way. The rest of the body was painted using the same paint and methods that I have discussed in earlier blogs. I also lapped the sole flat as I do with all of my planes.
> 
> The only downside with the restoration of this plane was that the blade was shot. The blade was badly pitted from rust and there was no way for it to become usable again. So the search was on for a replacement blade so I could get this plane back to use. I checked a few places and found that Woodcraft had a IBC replacement blade for the 103 sized plane. The blade was expensive but I all ready went this far with this cheap plane so why not go all out. The new blade is a lot thicker so I had to file the mouth of the plane a little bit so that it would take the new blade right.
> 
> All in all its a very handy plane that serves its purpose.


Dan you can take a poor designed plane and if you can sharpen n tune you can get it to produce. I do feel you with adjusting. I have a #3 that is from India and I love it. I hate to take it apart for maintenance. Because the stupid thing takes me 20 minutes to get it back to where it was.
Once again great refurbish.


----------



## sedcokid

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #103 Block/Pocket Plane restored and upgraded! w pics*
> 
> This small pocket sized plane is probably used more then any of the planes in my shop. The plane is what I suppose you could call a cheap plane. The blade depth adjustment is a pain in the ass and the plane chatters and chokes very quickly if your blade is not set just right. However once you get the hang of the blade adjustment and once you know the limits of this plane it is extremely handy for small jobs and touch ups. The planes size make it very easy and comfortable to hold or keep in your pocket. I have found this plane most useful when making small boxes or other smaller projects. It is also very useful for touching up projects that have been assembled where a full size block plane is just to big.
> 
> I picked up this plane for a dollar or two but it was in very rough shape. Most guys probably would not have taken the time that I did to bring this cheap plane back to life but I like a challenge. The plane was rusted and covered with over spray from different spray paints. You could tell this was a well used plane. This plane was originally japaned black over the whole body but decided to sand and polish the sides rather then re-painting them. I think it looks a lot better that way. The rest of the body was painted using the same paint and methods that I have discussed in earlier blogs. I also lapped the sole flat as I do with all of my planes.
> 
> The only downside with the restoration of this plane was that the blade was shot. The blade was badly pitted from rust and there was no way for it to become usable again. So the search was on for a replacement blade so I could get this plane back to use. I checked a few places and found that Woodcraft had a IBC replacement blade for the 103 sized plane. The blade was expensive but I all ready went this far with this cheap plane so why not go all out. The new blade is a lot thicker so I had to file the mouth of the plane a little bit so that it would take the new blade right.
> 
> All in all its a very handy plane that serves its purpose.


Dan,
I was just given this plane from my 87 year old father who got it from his father. The only thing I can find on the plane is the #103, so do you know anything other then what you have told here in your blog. I think I will restore this tool so that it looks like yours. The knief or steel is in good shape but looks like someone sharpened it with a chisel. What is the proper angle to sharpen the knief at?

Thanks for sharing…
The SedcoKid aka Chuck


----------



## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #103 Block/Pocket Plane restored and upgraded! w pics*
> 
> This small pocket sized plane is probably used more then any of the planes in my shop. The plane is what I suppose you could call a cheap plane. The blade depth adjustment is a pain in the ass and the plane chatters and chokes very quickly if your blade is not set just right. However once you get the hang of the blade adjustment and once you know the limits of this plane it is extremely handy for small jobs and touch ups. The planes size make it very easy and comfortable to hold or keep in your pocket. I have found this plane most useful when making small boxes or other smaller projects. It is also very useful for touching up projects that have been assembled where a full size block plane is just to big.
> 
> I picked up this plane for a dollar or two but it was in very rough shape. Most guys probably would not have taken the time that I did to bring this cheap plane back to life but I like a challenge. The plane was rusted and covered with over spray from different spray paints. You could tell this was a well used plane. This plane was originally japaned black over the whole body but decided to sand and polish the sides rather then re-painting them. I think it looks a lot better that way. The rest of the body was painted using the same paint and methods that I have discussed in earlier blogs. I also lapped the sole flat as I do with all of my planes.
> 
> The only downside with the restoration of this plane was that the blade was shot. The blade was badly pitted from rust and there was no way for it to become usable again. So the search was on for a replacement blade so I could get this plane back to use. I checked a few places and found that Woodcraft had a IBC replacement blade for the 103 sized plane. The blade was expensive but I all ready went this far with this cheap plane so why not go all out. The new blade is a lot thicker so I had to file the mouth of the plane a little bit so that it would take the new blade right.
> 
> All in all its a very handy plane that serves its purpose.


Chuck - I pretty much said what I know about it in the blog. Its not a great quality plane by any means but it is extremely handy. I think I use this plane more then any of my other planes. It is very comfortable for me to hold with one hand and its perfect to touch up small areas. I bought a replacement blade for the plane and the blade had a 25 degree primary bevel. I hone a 2nd bevel of 29 degrees and a micro bevel at like 31 degrees.

If you get the blade sharpened well I think you will really enjoy your plane.


----------



## Dcase

*Stanley #48 Tongue & Groove plane restoration complete w lots of pics. SWEET! *

This is the first specialty use plane that I have restored back to user condition. It was a long process but it was worth it as this is a very sweet plane to use. On my very first attempt I was able to cut an almost perfect tongue & groove within 5 minuets. It is a very well designed plane and is a great addition to my collection.

I got this plane off Ebay for around 30 dollars. It was in pretty rough shape from a cosmetic point of view but its all cast solid so there is not much you can do to damage or break the plane. The entire body of the plane is nickel plated and I spent a while cleaning and polishing it. After many hours of detail cleaning and polishing I still was not happy with the appearance of plane. There were a lot of small chips in the nickel coating and I decided I wanted to somehow refinish the plane. I spent a little time looking into the process of nickel plating and how to do it as I toyed with the idea of doing this myself. I also looked into metallic nickel colored spray paint as my 2nd choice. I gave it a lot of thought and finally decided to go with the spray paint. For the paint I used a spray can of Rust Oleum Metallic Satin Nickel. This spray paint went on really nice and covered very well. I applied a total of about 5 thin coats. I was very happy with the finish and it looked a lot better then I had expected it to.

I let the plane sit for about a week before I did anything else. I don't know if there is a set cure time for the paint but better safe then sorry. I spent some time cleaning and waxing the spring loaded fence pin. I wanted to make sure the fence would work real smooth when put back together. It was a little tricky getting the fence reattached but I got it on.

I spent a lot of time with the blades as well as they were in bad shape. I flattened the backs and grinned new bevels on them. The blades were a little small for my honing jig so I basically did most of it free hand.

Once complete I tested the plane out on a couple scraps of pine. The pictures show my very first attempt and as you can see I was able to cut an almost perfect tongue and groove on my very first try. This plane is that easy to use. Its a very sweet user and now I just have to find more uses for T&G joints.


----------



## chrisstef

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #48 Tongue & Groove plane restoration complete w lots of pics. SWEET! *
> 
> This is the first specialty use plane that I have restored back to user condition. It was a long process but it was worth it as this is a very sweet plane to use. On my very first attempt I was able to cut an almost perfect tongue & groove within 5 minuets. It is a very well designed plane and is a great addition to my collection.
> 
> I got this plane off Ebay for around 30 dollars. It was in pretty rough shape from a cosmetic point of view but its all cast solid so there is not much you can do to damage or break the plane. The entire body of the plane is nickel plated and I spent a while cleaning and polishing it. After many hours of detail cleaning and polishing I still was not happy with the appearance of plane. There were a lot of small chips in the nickel coating and I decided I wanted to somehow refinish the plane. I spent a little time looking into the process of nickel plating and how to do it as I toyed with the idea of doing this myself. I also looked into metallic nickel colored spray paint as my 2nd choice. I gave it a lot of thought and finally decided to go with the spray paint. For the paint I used a spray can of Rust Oleum Metallic Satin Nickel. This spray paint went on really nice and covered very well. I applied a total of about 5 thin coats. I was very happy with the finish and it looked a lot better then I had expected it to.
> 
> I let the plane sit for about a week before I did anything else. I don't know if there is a set cure time for the paint but better safe then sorry. I spent some time cleaning and waxing the spring loaded fence pin. I wanted to make sure the fence would work real smooth when put back together. It was a little tricky getting the fence reattached but I got it on.
> 
> I spent a lot of time with the blades as well as they were in bad shape. I flattened the backs and grinned new bevels on them. The blades were a little small for my honing jig so I basically did most of it free hand.
> 
> Once complete I tested the plane out on a couple scraps of pine. The pictures show my very first attempt and as you can see I was able to cut an almost perfect tongue and groove on my very first try. This plane is that easy to use. Its a very sweet user and now I just have to find more uses for T&G joints.


sweeeetttt


----------



## Eric_S

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #48 Tongue & Groove plane restoration complete w lots of pics. SWEET! *
> 
> This is the first specialty use plane that I have restored back to user condition. It was a long process but it was worth it as this is a very sweet plane to use. On my very first attempt I was able to cut an almost perfect tongue & groove within 5 minuets. It is a very well designed plane and is a great addition to my collection.
> 
> I got this plane off Ebay for around 30 dollars. It was in pretty rough shape from a cosmetic point of view but its all cast solid so there is not much you can do to damage or break the plane. The entire body of the plane is nickel plated and I spent a while cleaning and polishing it. After many hours of detail cleaning and polishing I still was not happy with the appearance of plane. There were a lot of small chips in the nickel coating and I decided I wanted to somehow refinish the plane. I spent a little time looking into the process of nickel plating and how to do it as I toyed with the idea of doing this myself. I also looked into metallic nickel colored spray paint as my 2nd choice. I gave it a lot of thought and finally decided to go with the spray paint. For the paint I used a spray can of Rust Oleum Metallic Satin Nickel. This spray paint went on really nice and covered very well. I applied a total of about 5 thin coats. I was very happy with the finish and it looked a lot better then I had expected it to.
> 
> I let the plane sit for about a week before I did anything else. I don't know if there is a set cure time for the paint but better safe then sorry. I spent some time cleaning and waxing the spring loaded fence pin. I wanted to make sure the fence would work real smooth when put back together. It was a little tricky getting the fence reattached but I got it on.
> 
> I spent a lot of time with the blades as well as they were in bad shape. I flattened the backs and grinned new bevels on them. The blades were a little small for my honing jig so I basically did most of it free hand.
> 
> Once complete I tested the plane out on a couple scraps of pine. The pictures show my very first attempt and as you can see I was able to cut an almost perfect tongue and groove on my very first try. This plane is that easy to use. Its a very sweet user and now I just have to find more uses for T&G joints.


Wow, very nice restore. I've never even seen the tongue and groove planes. Very cool


----------



## Napoleon

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #48 Tongue & Groove plane restoration complete w lots of pics. SWEET! *
> 
> This is the first specialty use plane that I have restored back to user condition. It was a long process but it was worth it as this is a very sweet plane to use. On my very first attempt I was able to cut an almost perfect tongue & groove within 5 minuets. It is a very well designed plane and is a great addition to my collection.
> 
> I got this plane off Ebay for around 30 dollars. It was in pretty rough shape from a cosmetic point of view but its all cast solid so there is not much you can do to damage or break the plane. The entire body of the plane is nickel plated and I spent a while cleaning and polishing it. After many hours of detail cleaning and polishing I still was not happy with the appearance of plane. There were a lot of small chips in the nickel coating and I decided I wanted to somehow refinish the plane. I spent a little time looking into the process of nickel plating and how to do it as I toyed with the idea of doing this myself. I also looked into metallic nickel colored spray paint as my 2nd choice. I gave it a lot of thought and finally decided to go with the spray paint. For the paint I used a spray can of Rust Oleum Metallic Satin Nickel. This spray paint went on really nice and covered very well. I applied a total of about 5 thin coats. I was very happy with the finish and it looked a lot better then I had expected it to.
> 
> I let the plane sit for about a week before I did anything else. I don't know if there is a set cure time for the paint but better safe then sorry. I spent some time cleaning and waxing the spring loaded fence pin. I wanted to make sure the fence would work real smooth when put back together. It was a little tricky getting the fence reattached but I got it on.
> 
> I spent a lot of time with the blades as well as they were in bad shape. I flattened the backs and grinned new bevels on them. The blades were a little small for my honing jig so I basically did most of it free hand.
> 
> Once complete I tested the plane out on a couple scraps of pine. The pictures show my very first attempt and as you can see I was able to cut an almost perfect tongue and groove on my very first try. This plane is that easy to use. Its a very sweet user and now I just have to find more uses for T&G joints.


What a nice Plane and well done work 

have just today got one from Ln.


----------



## JulianLech

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #48 Tongue & Groove plane restoration complete w lots of pics. SWEET! *
> 
> This is the first specialty use plane that I have restored back to user condition. It was a long process but it was worth it as this is a very sweet plane to use. On my very first attempt I was able to cut an almost perfect tongue & groove within 5 minuets. It is a very well designed plane and is a great addition to my collection.
> 
> I got this plane off Ebay for around 30 dollars. It was in pretty rough shape from a cosmetic point of view but its all cast solid so there is not much you can do to damage or break the plane. The entire body of the plane is nickel plated and I spent a while cleaning and polishing it. After many hours of detail cleaning and polishing I still was not happy with the appearance of plane. There were a lot of small chips in the nickel coating and I decided I wanted to somehow refinish the plane. I spent a little time looking into the process of nickel plating and how to do it as I toyed with the idea of doing this myself. I also looked into metallic nickel colored spray paint as my 2nd choice. I gave it a lot of thought and finally decided to go with the spray paint. For the paint I used a spray can of Rust Oleum Metallic Satin Nickel. This spray paint went on really nice and covered very well. I applied a total of about 5 thin coats. I was very happy with the finish and it looked a lot better then I had expected it to.
> 
> I let the plane sit for about a week before I did anything else. I don't know if there is a set cure time for the paint but better safe then sorry. I spent some time cleaning and waxing the spring loaded fence pin. I wanted to make sure the fence would work real smooth when put back together. It was a little tricky getting the fence reattached but I got it on.
> 
> I spent a lot of time with the blades as well as they were in bad shape. I flattened the backs and grinned new bevels on them. The blades were a little small for my honing jig so I basically did most of it free hand.
> 
> Once complete I tested the plane out on a couple scraps of pine. The pictures show my very first attempt and as you can see I was able to cut an almost perfect tongue and groove on my very first try. This plane is that easy to use. Its a very sweet user and now I just have to find more uses for T&G joints.


Awesome looking plane, Nice restore job. I saw a similar plane on the "WoodWright Shop" PBS show.


----------



## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #48 Tongue & Groove plane restoration complete w lots of pics. SWEET! *
> 
> This is the first specialty use plane that I have restored back to user condition. It was a long process but it was worth it as this is a very sweet plane to use. On my very first attempt I was able to cut an almost perfect tongue & groove within 5 minuets. It is a very well designed plane and is a great addition to my collection.
> 
> I got this plane off Ebay for around 30 dollars. It was in pretty rough shape from a cosmetic point of view but its all cast solid so there is not much you can do to damage or break the plane. The entire body of the plane is nickel plated and I spent a while cleaning and polishing it. After many hours of detail cleaning and polishing I still was not happy with the appearance of plane. There were a lot of small chips in the nickel coating and I decided I wanted to somehow refinish the plane. I spent a little time looking into the process of nickel plating and how to do it as I toyed with the idea of doing this myself. I also looked into metallic nickel colored spray paint as my 2nd choice. I gave it a lot of thought and finally decided to go with the spray paint. For the paint I used a spray can of Rust Oleum Metallic Satin Nickel. This spray paint went on really nice and covered very well. I applied a total of about 5 thin coats. I was very happy with the finish and it looked a lot better then I had expected it to.
> 
> I let the plane sit for about a week before I did anything else. I don't know if there is a set cure time for the paint but better safe then sorry. I spent some time cleaning and waxing the spring loaded fence pin. I wanted to make sure the fence would work real smooth when put back together. It was a little tricky getting the fence reattached but I got it on.
> 
> I spent a lot of time with the blades as well as they were in bad shape. I flattened the backs and grinned new bevels on them. The blades were a little small for my honing jig so I basically did most of it free hand.
> 
> Once complete I tested the plane out on a couple scraps of pine. The pictures show my very first attempt and as you can see I was able to cut an almost perfect tongue and groove on my very first try. This plane is that easy to use. Its a very sweet user and now I just have to find more uses for T&G joints.


Eric - I had not seen any either or knew really what they were until I got this one. It just looked interesting to me and I figured it would be fun to restore and use.

Napoleon- LN's T&G plane is almost identical to this one. The only big difference I saw was that the LN has a single blade rather then two separate cutters. The LN one looks really slick and I am sure you will enjoy using it.


----------



## DennisLeeZongker

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #48 Tongue & Groove plane restoration complete w lots of pics. SWEET! *
> 
> This is the first specialty use plane that I have restored back to user condition. It was a long process but it was worth it as this is a very sweet plane to use. On my very first attempt I was able to cut an almost perfect tongue & groove within 5 minuets. It is a very well designed plane and is a great addition to my collection.
> 
> I got this plane off Ebay for around 30 dollars. It was in pretty rough shape from a cosmetic point of view but its all cast solid so there is not much you can do to damage or break the plane. The entire body of the plane is nickel plated and I spent a while cleaning and polishing it. After many hours of detail cleaning and polishing I still was not happy with the appearance of plane. There were a lot of small chips in the nickel coating and I decided I wanted to somehow refinish the plane. I spent a little time looking into the process of nickel plating and how to do it as I toyed with the idea of doing this myself. I also looked into metallic nickel colored spray paint as my 2nd choice. I gave it a lot of thought and finally decided to go with the spray paint. For the paint I used a spray can of Rust Oleum Metallic Satin Nickel. This spray paint went on really nice and covered very well. I applied a total of about 5 thin coats. I was very happy with the finish and it looked a lot better then I had expected it to.
> 
> I let the plane sit for about a week before I did anything else. I don't know if there is a set cure time for the paint but better safe then sorry. I spent some time cleaning and waxing the spring loaded fence pin. I wanted to make sure the fence would work real smooth when put back together. It was a little tricky getting the fence reattached but I got it on.
> 
> I spent a lot of time with the blades as well as they were in bad shape. I flattened the backs and grinned new bevels on them. The blades were a little small for my honing jig so I basically did most of it free hand.
> 
> Once complete I tested the plane out on a couple scraps of pine. The pictures show my very first attempt and as you can see I was able to cut an almost perfect tongue and groove on my very first try. This plane is that easy to use. Its a very sweet user and now I just have to find more uses for T&G joints.


Looks Like a lot of fun! Super job!


----------



## canadianchips

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #48 Tongue & Groove plane restoration complete w lots of pics. SWEET! *
> 
> This is the first specialty use plane that I have restored back to user condition. It was a long process but it was worth it as this is a very sweet plane to use. On my very first attempt I was able to cut an almost perfect tongue & groove within 5 minuets. It is a very well designed plane and is a great addition to my collection.
> 
> I got this plane off Ebay for around 30 dollars. It was in pretty rough shape from a cosmetic point of view but its all cast solid so there is not much you can do to damage or break the plane. The entire body of the plane is nickel plated and I spent a while cleaning and polishing it. After many hours of detail cleaning and polishing I still was not happy with the appearance of plane. There were a lot of small chips in the nickel coating and I decided I wanted to somehow refinish the plane. I spent a little time looking into the process of nickel plating and how to do it as I toyed with the idea of doing this myself. I also looked into metallic nickel colored spray paint as my 2nd choice. I gave it a lot of thought and finally decided to go with the spray paint. For the paint I used a spray can of Rust Oleum Metallic Satin Nickel. This spray paint went on really nice and covered very well. I applied a total of about 5 thin coats. I was very happy with the finish and it looked a lot better then I had expected it to.
> 
> I let the plane sit for about a week before I did anything else. I don't know if there is a set cure time for the paint but better safe then sorry. I spent some time cleaning and waxing the spring loaded fence pin. I wanted to make sure the fence would work real smooth when put back together. It was a little tricky getting the fence reattached but I got it on.
> 
> I spent a lot of time with the blades as well as they were in bad shape. I flattened the backs and grinned new bevels on them. The blades were a little small for my honing jig so I basically did most of it free hand.
> 
> Once complete I tested the plane out on a couple scraps of pine. The pictures show my very first attempt and as you can see I was able to cut an almost perfect tongue and groove on my very first try. This plane is that easy to use. Its a very sweet user and now I just have to find more uses for T&G joints.


Another plane rescued. GOOD job. Looks like the blades are from a #45 ?


----------



## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #48 Tongue & Groove plane restoration complete w lots of pics. SWEET! *
> 
> This is the first specialty use plane that I have restored back to user condition. It was a long process but it was worth it as this is a very sweet plane to use. On my very first attempt I was able to cut an almost perfect tongue & groove within 5 minuets. It is a very well designed plane and is a great addition to my collection.
> 
> I got this plane off Ebay for around 30 dollars. It was in pretty rough shape from a cosmetic point of view but its all cast solid so there is not much you can do to damage or break the plane. The entire body of the plane is nickel plated and I spent a while cleaning and polishing it. After many hours of detail cleaning and polishing I still was not happy with the appearance of plane. There were a lot of small chips in the nickel coating and I decided I wanted to somehow refinish the plane. I spent a little time looking into the process of nickel plating and how to do it as I toyed with the idea of doing this myself. I also looked into metallic nickel colored spray paint as my 2nd choice. I gave it a lot of thought and finally decided to go with the spray paint. For the paint I used a spray can of Rust Oleum Metallic Satin Nickel. This spray paint went on really nice and covered very well. I applied a total of about 5 thin coats. I was very happy with the finish and it looked a lot better then I had expected it to.
> 
> I let the plane sit for about a week before I did anything else. I don't know if there is a set cure time for the paint but better safe then sorry. I spent some time cleaning and waxing the spring loaded fence pin. I wanted to make sure the fence would work real smooth when put back together. It was a little tricky getting the fence reattached but I got it on.
> 
> I spent a lot of time with the blades as well as they were in bad shape. I flattened the backs and grinned new bevels on them. The blades were a little small for my honing jig so I basically did most of it free hand.
> 
> Once complete I tested the plane out on a couple scraps of pine. The pictures show my very first attempt and as you can see I was able to cut an almost perfect tongue and groove on my very first try. This plane is that easy to use. Its a very sweet user and now I just have to find more uses for T&G joints.


Canadianchips - Correct you are. They are not the original blades. They were with it when I bought it but yes the notch at the top shows they are likely from a 45. They are the same size though and appear to work just fine in the plane. I think the 48 has another size blade you can use too but I don't think its common.


----------



## ratchet

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #48 Tongue & Groove plane restoration complete w lots of pics. SWEET! *
> 
> This is the first specialty use plane that I have restored back to user condition. It was a long process but it was worth it as this is a very sweet plane to use. On my very first attempt I was able to cut an almost perfect tongue & groove within 5 minuets. It is a very well designed plane and is a great addition to my collection.
> 
> I got this plane off Ebay for around 30 dollars. It was in pretty rough shape from a cosmetic point of view but its all cast solid so there is not much you can do to damage or break the plane. The entire body of the plane is nickel plated and I spent a while cleaning and polishing it. After many hours of detail cleaning and polishing I still was not happy with the appearance of plane. There were a lot of small chips in the nickel coating and I decided I wanted to somehow refinish the plane. I spent a little time looking into the process of nickel plating and how to do it as I toyed with the idea of doing this myself. I also looked into metallic nickel colored spray paint as my 2nd choice. I gave it a lot of thought and finally decided to go with the spray paint. For the paint I used a spray can of Rust Oleum Metallic Satin Nickel. This spray paint went on really nice and covered very well. I applied a total of about 5 thin coats. I was very happy with the finish and it looked a lot better then I had expected it to.
> 
> I let the plane sit for about a week before I did anything else. I don't know if there is a set cure time for the paint but better safe then sorry. I spent some time cleaning and waxing the spring loaded fence pin. I wanted to make sure the fence would work real smooth when put back together. It was a little tricky getting the fence reattached but I got it on.
> 
> I spent a lot of time with the blades as well as they were in bad shape. I flattened the backs and grinned new bevels on them. The blades were a little small for my honing jig so I basically did most of it free hand.
> 
> Once complete I tested the plane out on a couple scraps of pine. The pictures show my very first attempt and as you can see I was able to cut an almost perfect tongue and groove on my very first try. This plane is that easy to use. Its a very sweet user and now I just have to find more uses for T&G joints.


Gadzooks…is that the same plane? Great Save. Was real nickel plating to spendy?


----------



## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #48 Tongue & Groove plane restoration complete w lots of pics. SWEET! *
> 
> This is the first specialty use plane that I have restored back to user condition. It was a long process but it was worth it as this is a very sweet plane to use. On my very first attempt I was able to cut an almost perfect tongue & groove within 5 minuets. It is a very well designed plane and is a great addition to my collection.
> 
> I got this plane off Ebay for around 30 dollars. It was in pretty rough shape from a cosmetic point of view but its all cast solid so there is not much you can do to damage or break the plane. The entire body of the plane is nickel plated and I spent a while cleaning and polishing it. After many hours of detail cleaning and polishing I still was not happy with the appearance of plane. There were a lot of small chips in the nickel coating and I decided I wanted to somehow refinish the plane. I spent a little time looking into the process of nickel plating and how to do it as I toyed with the idea of doing this myself. I also looked into metallic nickel colored spray paint as my 2nd choice. I gave it a lot of thought and finally decided to go with the spray paint. For the paint I used a spray can of Rust Oleum Metallic Satin Nickel. This spray paint went on really nice and covered very well. I applied a total of about 5 thin coats. I was very happy with the finish and it looked a lot better then I had expected it to.
> 
> I let the plane sit for about a week before I did anything else. I don't know if there is a set cure time for the paint but better safe then sorry. I spent some time cleaning and waxing the spring loaded fence pin. I wanted to make sure the fence would work real smooth when put back together. It was a little tricky getting the fence reattached but I got it on.
> 
> I spent a lot of time with the blades as well as they were in bad shape. I flattened the backs and grinned new bevels on them. The blades were a little small for my honing jig so I basically did most of it free hand.
> 
> Once complete I tested the plane out on a couple scraps of pine. The pictures show my very first attempt and as you can see I was able to cut an almost perfect tongue and groove on my very first try. This plane is that easy to use. Its a very sweet user and now I just have to find more uses for T&G joints.


Ratchet - I never got far enough into the research to know the what the expenses would be for the nickel plating. I just read how the process was done. It just seemed a bit more complicated then what I wanted to get into at this point. I was not concerned about an exact match to the original finish either since this is just a plane I am using in my shop. Still I wanted a fresh new look and I am very happy with the painting results. For a 6 dollar can of spray paint that was the smartest and best option for me.


----------



## Napoleon

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #48 Tongue & Groove plane restoration complete w lots of pics. SWEET! *
> 
> This is the first specialty use plane that I have restored back to user condition. It was a long process but it was worth it as this is a very sweet plane to use. On my very first attempt I was able to cut an almost perfect tongue & groove within 5 minuets. It is a very well designed plane and is a great addition to my collection.
> 
> I got this plane off Ebay for around 30 dollars. It was in pretty rough shape from a cosmetic point of view but its all cast solid so there is not much you can do to damage or break the plane. The entire body of the plane is nickel plated and I spent a while cleaning and polishing it. After many hours of detail cleaning and polishing I still was not happy with the appearance of plane. There were a lot of small chips in the nickel coating and I decided I wanted to somehow refinish the plane. I spent a little time looking into the process of nickel plating and how to do it as I toyed with the idea of doing this myself. I also looked into metallic nickel colored spray paint as my 2nd choice. I gave it a lot of thought and finally decided to go with the spray paint. For the paint I used a spray can of Rust Oleum Metallic Satin Nickel. This spray paint went on really nice and covered very well. I applied a total of about 5 thin coats. I was very happy with the finish and it looked a lot better then I had expected it to.
> 
> I let the plane sit for about a week before I did anything else. I don't know if there is a set cure time for the paint but better safe then sorry. I spent some time cleaning and waxing the spring loaded fence pin. I wanted to make sure the fence would work real smooth when put back together. It was a little tricky getting the fence reattached but I got it on.
> 
> I spent a lot of time with the blades as well as they were in bad shape. I flattened the backs and grinned new bevels on them. The blades were a little small for my honing jig so I basically did most of it free hand.
> 
> Once complete I tested the plane out on a couple scraps of pine. The pictures show my very first attempt and as you can see I was able to cut an almost perfect tongue and groove on my very first try. This plane is that easy to use. Its a very sweet user and now I just have to find more uses for T&G joints.


Dan you are right that the Ln has a single blade. Except from that they look a little diffenrent in design they are almost the same plane  and


----------



## Dennisgrosen

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #48 Tongue & Groove plane restoration complete w lots of pics. SWEET! *
> 
> This is the first specialty use plane that I have restored back to user condition. It was a long process but it was worth it as this is a very sweet plane to use. On my very first attempt I was able to cut an almost perfect tongue & groove within 5 minuets. It is a very well designed plane and is a great addition to my collection.
> 
> I got this plane off Ebay for around 30 dollars. It was in pretty rough shape from a cosmetic point of view but its all cast solid so there is not much you can do to damage or break the plane. The entire body of the plane is nickel plated and I spent a while cleaning and polishing it. After many hours of detail cleaning and polishing I still was not happy with the appearance of plane. There were a lot of small chips in the nickel coating and I decided I wanted to somehow refinish the plane. I spent a little time looking into the process of nickel plating and how to do it as I toyed with the idea of doing this myself. I also looked into metallic nickel colored spray paint as my 2nd choice. I gave it a lot of thought and finally decided to go with the spray paint. For the paint I used a spray can of Rust Oleum Metallic Satin Nickel. This spray paint went on really nice and covered very well. I applied a total of about 5 thin coats. I was very happy with the finish and it looked a lot better then I had expected it to.
> 
> I let the plane sit for about a week before I did anything else. I don't know if there is a set cure time for the paint but better safe then sorry. I spent some time cleaning and waxing the spring loaded fence pin. I wanted to make sure the fence would work real smooth when put back together. It was a little tricky getting the fence reattached but I got it on.
> 
> I spent a lot of time with the blades as well as they were in bad shape. I flattened the backs and grinned new bevels on them. The blades were a little small for my honing jig so I basically did most of it free hand.
> 
> Once complete I tested the plane out on a couple scraps of pine. The pictures show my very first attempt and as you can see I was able to cut an almost perfect tongue and groove on my very first try. This plane is that easy to use. Its a very sweet user and now I just have to find more uses for T&G joints.


Dan now I have had this blog infront of me since you posted and still can´t come up with 
a good comment other than I think you made a very good refurb on it 

and your t & G is near dam perfect as I can see and it is a genial little plane to have in the toolbox 
I did see Roy use it in one of his Vidio´s he do like it too even though he have a matched set too

take care
Dennis


----------



## wb8nbs

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #48 Tongue & Groove plane restoration complete w lots of pics. SWEET! *
> 
> This is the first specialty use plane that I have restored back to user condition. It was a long process but it was worth it as this is a very sweet plane to use. On my very first attempt I was able to cut an almost perfect tongue & groove within 5 minuets. It is a very well designed plane and is a great addition to my collection.
> 
> I got this plane off Ebay for around 30 dollars. It was in pretty rough shape from a cosmetic point of view but its all cast solid so there is not much you can do to damage or break the plane. The entire body of the plane is nickel plated and I spent a while cleaning and polishing it. After many hours of detail cleaning and polishing I still was not happy with the appearance of plane. There were a lot of small chips in the nickel coating and I decided I wanted to somehow refinish the plane. I spent a little time looking into the process of nickel plating and how to do it as I toyed with the idea of doing this myself. I also looked into metallic nickel colored spray paint as my 2nd choice. I gave it a lot of thought and finally decided to go with the spray paint. For the paint I used a spray can of Rust Oleum Metallic Satin Nickel. This spray paint went on really nice and covered very well. I applied a total of about 5 thin coats. I was very happy with the finish and it looked a lot better then I had expected it to.
> 
> I let the plane sit for about a week before I did anything else. I don't know if there is a set cure time for the paint but better safe then sorry. I spent some time cleaning and waxing the spring loaded fence pin. I wanted to make sure the fence would work real smooth when put back together. It was a little tricky getting the fence reattached but I got it on.
> 
> I spent a lot of time with the blades as well as they were in bad shape. I flattened the backs and grinned new bevels on them. The blades were a little small for my honing jig so I basically did most of it free hand.
> 
> Once complete I tested the plane out on a couple scraps of pine. The pictures show my very first attempt and as you can see I was able to cut an almost perfect tongue and groove on my very first try. This plane is that easy to use. Its a very sweet user and now I just have to find more uses for T&G joints.


I saw that plane on "Woodwright's Shop". From your photos, the tongue and groove look little fat, I'm guessing you had a 3/4" board and the plane is tuned for a 1 inch board… Is it adjustable laterally to narrow the groove?

I was hoping you had found an inexpensive way to do nickel plating at home. We could use that.


----------



## BigTiny

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #48 Tongue & Groove plane restoration complete w lots of pics. SWEET! *
> 
> This is the first specialty use plane that I have restored back to user condition. It was a long process but it was worth it as this is a very sweet plane to use. On my very first attempt I was able to cut an almost perfect tongue & groove within 5 minuets. It is a very well designed plane and is a great addition to my collection.
> 
> I got this plane off Ebay for around 30 dollars. It was in pretty rough shape from a cosmetic point of view but its all cast solid so there is not much you can do to damage or break the plane. The entire body of the plane is nickel plated and I spent a while cleaning and polishing it. After many hours of detail cleaning and polishing I still was not happy with the appearance of plane. There were a lot of small chips in the nickel coating and I decided I wanted to somehow refinish the plane. I spent a little time looking into the process of nickel plating and how to do it as I toyed with the idea of doing this myself. I also looked into metallic nickel colored spray paint as my 2nd choice. I gave it a lot of thought and finally decided to go with the spray paint. For the paint I used a spray can of Rust Oleum Metallic Satin Nickel. This spray paint went on really nice and covered very well. I applied a total of about 5 thin coats. I was very happy with the finish and it looked a lot better then I had expected it to.
> 
> I let the plane sit for about a week before I did anything else. I don't know if there is a set cure time for the paint but better safe then sorry. I spent some time cleaning and waxing the spring loaded fence pin. I wanted to make sure the fence would work real smooth when put back together. It was a little tricky getting the fence reattached but I got it on.
> 
> I spent a lot of time with the blades as well as they were in bad shape. I flattened the backs and grinned new bevels on them. The blades were a little small for my honing jig so I basically did most of it free hand.
> 
> Once complete I tested the plane out on a couple scraps of pine. The pictures show my very first attempt and as you can see I was able to cut an almost perfect tongue and groove on my very first try. This plane is that easy to use. Its a very sweet user and now I just have to find more uses for T&G joints.


Now all you need is a floor to do. (ducking and grinning)

Lovely job on a neat tool!


----------



## superdav721

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #48 Tongue & Groove plane restoration complete w lots of pics. SWEET! *
> 
> This is the first specialty use plane that I have restored back to user condition. It was a long process but it was worth it as this is a very sweet plane to use. On my very first attempt I was able to cut an almost perfect tongue & groove within 5 minuets. It is a very well designed plane and is a great addition to my collection.
> 
> I got this plane off Ebay for around 30 dollars. It was in pretty rough shape from a cosmetic point of view but its all cast solid so there is not much you can do to damage or break the plane. The entire body of the plane is nickel plated and I spent a while cleaning and polishing it. After many hours of detail cleaning and polishing I still was not happy with the appearance of plane. There were a lot of small chips in the nickel coating and I decided I wanted to somehow refinish the plane. I spent a little time looking into the process of nickel plating and how to do it as I toyed with the idea of doing this myself. I also looked into metallic nickel colored spray paint as my 2nd choice. I gave it a lot of thought and finally decided to go with the spray paint. For the paint I used a spray can of Rust Oleum Metallic Satin Nickel. This spray paint went on really nice and covered very well. I applied a total of about 5 thin coats. I was very happy with the finish and it looked a lot better then I had expected it to.
> 
> I let the plane sit for about a week before I did anything else. I don't know if there is a set cure time for the paint but better safe then sorry. I spent some time cleaning and waxing the spring loaded fence pin. I wanted to make sure the fence would work real smooth when put back together. It was a little tricky getting the fence reattached but I got it on.
> 
> I spent a lot of time with the blades as well as they were in bad shape. I flattened the backs and grinned new bevels on them. The blades were a little small for my honing jig so I basically did most of it free hand.
> 
> Once complete I tested the plane out on a couple scraps of pine. The pictures show my very first attempt and as you can see I was able to cut an almost perfect tongue and groove on my very first try. This plane is that easy to use. Its a very sweet user and now I just have to find more uses for T&G joints.


Impressive Dan. Your posting these refurb's faster than I can read them.


----------



## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #48 Tongue & Groove plane restoration complete w lots of pics. SWEET! *
> 
> This is the first specialty use plane that I have restored back to user condition. It was a long process but it was worth it as this is a very sweet plane to use. On my very first attempt I was able to cut an almost perfect tongue & groove within 5 minuets. It is a very well designed plane and is a great addition to my collection.
> 
> I got this plane off Ebay for around 30 dollars. It was in pretty rough shape from a cosmetic point of view but its all cast solid so there is not much you can do to damage or break the plane. The entire body of the plane is nickel plated and I spent a while cleaning and polishing it. After many hours of detail cleaning and polishing I still was not happy with the appearance of plane. There were a lot of small chips in the nickel coating and I decided I wanted to somehow refinish the plane. I spent a little time looking into the process of nickel plating and how to do it as I toyed with the idea of doing this myself. I also looked into metallic nickel colored spray paint as my 2nd choice. I gave it a lot of thought and finally decided to go with the spray paint. For the paint I used a spray can of Rust Oleum Metallic Satin Nickel. This spray paint went on really nice and covered very well. I applied a total of about 5 thin coats. I was very happy with the finish and it looked a lot better then I had expected it to.
> 
> I let the plane sit for about a week before I did anything else. I don't know if there is a set cure time for the paint but better safe then sorry. I spent some time cleaning and waxing the spring loaded fence pin. I wanted to make sure the fence would work real smooth when put back together. It was a little tricky getting the fence reattached but I got it on.
> 
> I spent a lot of time with the blades as well as they were in bad shape. I flattened the backs and grinned new bevels on them. The blades were a little small for my honing jig so I basically did most of it free hand.
> 
> Once complete I tested the plane out on a couple scraps of pine. The pictures show my very first attempt and as you can see I was able to cut an almost perfect tongue and groove on my very first try. This plane is that easy to use. Its a very sweet user and now I just have to find more uses for T&G joints.


wb8nbs- I think the #48 plane is designed for a board that is 5/8"... I think I can cut the T&G's on boards up to an inch as long as I keep the fence on the same side of both boards. The one I cut in the photos was a piece of 3/4… I have not played with it enough yet. I am waiting for a project in which I can use it so for now its displayed on a shelf in my shop.

Big Tiny- I think it would be very rewarding to do an entire floor with this plane. I actually could use a sub floor over my concrete shop floor.. hmmmmmm I think I will pass for now


----------



## djang000

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #48 Tongue & Groove plane restoration complete w lots of pics. SWEET! *
> 
> This is the first specialty use plane that I have restored back to user condition. It was a long process but it was worth it as this is a very sweet plane to use. On my very first attempt I was able to cut an almost perfect tongue & groove within 5 minuets. It is a very well designed plane and is a great addition to my collection.
> 
> I got this plane off Ebay for around 30 dollars. It was in pretty rough shape from a cosmetic point of view but its all cast solid so there is not much you can do to damage or break the plane. The entire body of the plane is nickel plated and I spent a while cleaning and polishing it. After many hours of detail cleaning and polishing I still was not happy with the appearance of plane. There were a lot of small chips in the nickel coating and I decided I wanted to somehow refinish the plane. I spent a little time looking into the process of nickel plating and how to do it as I toyed with the idea of doing this myself. I also looked into metallic nickel colored spray paint as my 2nd choice. I gave it a lot of thought and finally decided to go with the spray paint. For the paint I used a spray can of Rust Oleum Metallic Satin Nickel. This spray paint went on really nice and covered very well. I applied a total of about 5 thin coats. I was very happy with the finish and it looked a lot better then I had expected it to.
> 
> I let the plane sit for about a week before I did anything else. I don't know if there is a set cure time for the paint but better safe then sorry. I spent some time cleaning and waxing the spring loaded fence pin. I wanted to make sure the fence would work real smooth when put back together. It was a little tricky getting the fence reattached but I got it on.
> 
> I spent a lot of time with the blades as well as they were in bad shape. I flattened the backs and grinned new bevels on them. The blades were a little small for my honing jig so I basically did most of it free hand.
> 
> Once complete I tested the plane out on a couple scraps of pine. The pictures show my very first attempt and as you can see I was able to cut an almost perfect tongue and groove on my very first try. This plane is that easy to use. Its a very sweet user and now I just have to find more uses for T&G joints.


Hi Dan

Looks really really nice! Just stumbled on this. I myself found a #48 for 25$ on ebay and would like to do the same; the nickel plating on mine is in really bad shape. Any tricks on how to remove it (especially the hard to reach parts) ?

Cheer,
sam


----------



## Dcase

*Stanley Bailey #4 Restored w/ new premium blade & chip breaker*

This #4 smoothing plane is the most fine tuned of all my planes. I also upgraded it by replacing the old blade and breaker with a premium quality Pinnacle IBC blade and chip breaker. Once I got this gem tuned and sharp the power sanders were tucked away on a shelf in my shop. I use this plane to finish smooth my projects and the new blade makes it a true joy to use on almost any type of wood. The restoration process for the plane is the same as I used in the other planes. You can check my previous blogs in this series to find the how to's on my rust removal and polishing as I explain them in great detail. In this blog I want to focus on the blade and its advantages on the old plane.

When I first got into hand planes I knew nothing at all about them or how they worked so I did my research. I spent many many hours reading various blogs, forums and websites with hand plane information. I also watched a lot of videos on how to tune and use the planes. When researching the planes I would find some guys say "you need a quality blade for your plane to work" while others would argue great results with the original blades. Had I not done my research I might think I need to buy a premium blade in order to use my old plane. Well if any of you are researching just like I did and you have stumbled across this blog let me tell you that "you DON'T need an expensive premium blade/breaker to make your old plane a great user". However replacing the blade and chip breaker with a premium set will make your plane perform a lot smoother.

I actually bought new blades and breakers for two of my planes. I bought an A2 Hock blade and breaker for my #7 and I got the Pinnacle set for my #4. The IBC Pinnacle set cost me 5 times what I paid for the plane so it was not an easy purchase to make but I am glad I did. The new blade and breaker are much thicker and the big advantage is the plane does not chatter or tear out when working with harder woods or woods with difficult grain patterns. With the old blade I had to be careful and pay close attn to the grain direction or I would get tear out. With the Pinnacle blade I have not had any problem with grain direction. I have even planed the wood against the grain without getting any tear out. The blade also works much better on edge and end grain. If I hit a knot in the board it does not slow the new blade down at all where the old one would chatter. It really does make a big difference in the performance of the plane.

My advice on upgrading to a new blade is this… If you use the plane a lot and work with a lot of hard woods and have the money then go for it. If your on a tighter budget you may want to save the money for other more needed tools and make do with the old blade. I think its more of a luxury then anything to have the premium blade. The last couple pictures show the plane in use on a piece of cherry wood which in my experience has been very tricky to plane without tear out. The new blade went through the cherry as if was a piece of softwood.


----------



## BigTiny

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #4 Restored w/ new premium blade & chip breaker*
> 
> This #4 smoothing plane is the most fine tuned of all my planes. I also upgraded it by replacing the old blade and breaker with a premium quality Pinnacle IBC blade and chip breaker. Once I got this gem tuned and sharp the power sanders were tucked away on a shelf in my shop. I use this plane to finish smooth my projects and the new blade makes it a true joy to use on almost any type of wood. The restoration process for the plane is the same as I used in the other planes. You can check my previous blogs in this series to find the how to's on my rust removal and polishing as I explain them in great detail. In this blog I want to focus on the blade and its advantages on the old plane.
> 
> When I first got into hand planes I knew nothing at all about them or how they worked so I did my research. I spent many many hours reading various blogs, forums and websites with hand plane information. I also watched a lot of videos on how to tune and use the planes. When researching the planes I would find some guys say "you need a quality blade for your plane to work" while others would argue great results with the original blades. Had I not done my research I might think I need to buy a premium blade in order to use my old plane. Well if any of you are researching just like I did and you have stumbled across this blog let me tell you that "you DON'T need an expensive premium blade/breaker to make your old plane a great user". However replacing the blade and chip breaker with a premium set will make your plane perform a lot smoother.
> 
> I actually bought new blades and breakers for two of my planes. I bought an A2 Hock blade and breaker for my #7 and I got the Pinnacle set for my #4. The IBC Pinnacle set cost me 5 times what I paid for the plane so it was not an easy purchase to make but I am glad I did. The new blade and breaker are much thicker and the big advantage is the plane does not chatter or tear out when working with harder woods or woods with difficult grain patterns. With the old blade I had to be careful and pay close attn to the grain direction or I would get tear out. With the Pinnacle blade I have not had any problem with grain direction. I have even planed the wood against the grain without getting any tear out. The blade also works much better on edge and end grain. If I hit a knot in the board it does not slow the new blade down at all where the old one would chatter. It really does make a big difference in the performance of the plane.
> 
> My advice on upgrading to a new blade is this… If you use the plane a lot and work with a lot of hard woods and have the money then go for it. If your on a tighter budget you may want to save the money for other more needed tools and make do with the old blade. I think its more of a luxury then anything to have the premium blade. The last couple pictures show the plane in use on a piece of cherry wood which in my experience has been very tricky to plane without tear out. The new blade went through the cherry as if was a piece of softwood.


Man, you do good work. That could pass for a new plane.


----------



## ratchet

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #4 Restored w/ new premium blade & chip breaker*
> 
> This #4 smoothing plane is the most fine tuned of all my planes. I also upgraded it by replacing the old blade and breaker with a premium quality Pinnacle IBC blade and chip breaker. Once I got this gem tuned and sharp the power sanders were tucked away on a shelf in my shop. I use this plane to finish smooth my projects and the new blade makes it a true joy to use on almost any type of wood. The restoration process for the plane is the same as I used in the other planes. You can check my previous blogs in this series to find the how to's on my rust removal and polishing as I explain them in great detail. In this blog I want to focus on the blade and its advantages on the old plane.
> 
> When I first got into hand planes I knew nothing at all about them or how they worked so I did my research. I spent many many hours reading various blogs, forums and websites with hand plane information. I also watched a lot of videos on how to tune and use the planes. When researching the planes I would find some guys say "you need a quality blade for your plane to work" while others would argue great results with the original blades. Had I not done my research I might think I need to buy a premium blade in order to use my old plane. Well if any of you are researching just like I did and you have stumbled across this blog let me tell you that "you DON'T need an expensive premium blade/breaker to make your old plane a great user". However replacing the blade and chip breaker with a premium set will make your plane perform a lot smoother.
> 
> I actually bought new blades and breakers for two of my planes. I bought an A2 Hock blade and breaker for my #7 and I got the Pinnacle set for my #4. The IBC Pinnacle set cost me 5 times what I paid for the plane so it was not an easy purchase to make but I am glad I did. The new blade and breaker are much thicker and the big advantage is the plane does not chatter or tear out when working with harder woods or woods with difficult grain patterns. With the old blade I had to be careful and pay close attn to the grain direction or I would get tear out. With the Pinnacle blade I have not had any problem with grain direction. I have even planed the wood against the grain without getting any tear out. The blade also works much better on edge and end grain. If I hit a knot in the board it does not slow the new blade down at all where the old one would chatter. It really does make a big difference in the performance of the plane.
> 
> My advice on upgrading to a new blade is this… If you use the plane a lot and work with a lot of hard woods and have the money then go for it. If your on a tighter budget you may want to save the money for other more needed tools and make do with the old blade. I think its more of a luxury then anything to have the premium blade. The last couple pictures show the plane in use on a piece of cherry wood which in my experience has been very tricky to plane without tear out. The new blade went through the cherry as if was a piece of softwood.


Smokes! Is that the same plane??? You do good work and will be receiveing several planes from me for same treatment (return postage enclosed of course).
Those curls look near transparent.
Thanks for sharing it with us.


----------



## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #4 Restored w/ new premium blade & chip breaker*
> 
> This #4 smoothing plane is the most fine tuned of all my planes. I also upgraded it by replacing the old blade and breaker with a premium quality Pinnacle IBC blade and chip breaker. Once I got this gem tuned and sharp the power sanders were tucked away on a shelf in my shop. I use this plane to finish smooth my projects and the new blade makes it a true joy to use on almost any type of wood. The restoration process for the plane is the same as I used in the other planes. You can check my previous blogs in this series to find the how to's on my rust removal and polishing as I explain them in great detail. In this blog I want to focus on the blade and its advantages on the old plane.
> 
> When I first got into hand planes I knew nothing at all about them or how they worked so I did my research. I spent many many hours reading various blogs, forums and websites with hand plane information. I also watched a lot of videos on how to tune and use the planes. When researching the planes I would find some guys say "you need a quality blade for your plane to work" while others would argue great results with the original blades. Had I not done my research I might think I need to buy a premium blade in order to use my old plane. Well if any of you are researching just like I did and you have stumbled across this blog let me tell you that "you DON'T need an expensive premium blade/breaker to make your old plane a great user". However replacing the blade and chip breaker with a premium set will make your plane perform a lot smoother.
> 
> I actually bought new blades and breakers for two of my planes. I bought an A2 Hock blade and breaker for my #7 and I got the Pinnacle set for my #4. The IBC Pinnacle set cost me 5 times what I paid for the plane so it was not an easy purchase to make but I am glad I did. The new blade and breaker are much thicker and the big advantage is the plane does not chatter or tear out when working with harder woods or woods with difficult grain patterns. With the old blade I had to be careful and pay close attn to the grain direction or I would get tear out. With the Pinnacle blade I have not had any problem with grain direction. I have even planed the wood against the grain without getting any tear out. The blade also works much better on edge and end grain. If I hit a knot in the board it does not slow the new blade down at all where the old one would chatter. It really does make a big difference in the performance of the plane.
> 
> My advice on upgrading to a new blade is this… If you use the plane a lot and work with a lot of hard woods and have the money then go for it. If your on a tighter budget you may want to save the money for other more needed tools and make do with the old blade. I think its more of a luxury then anything to have the premium blade. The last couple pictures show the plane in use on a piece of cherry wood which in my experience has been very tricky to plane without tear out. The new blade went through the cherry as if was a piece of softwood.


BT- Thank you and in a way it is a whole new plane as it looks and feels like a new plane to me.

Ratchet- Yes, it is the same plane  However if you look close it looks like I changed the front knob on this one. I just now noticed it myself but it looks like it originally had a tall knob and I put a low knob on it. I was restoring a few of my planes at the same time and I probably got the knobs mixed up. I think I put the tall knob on my #7 which was missing its original knob.

If you want to send me some planes to restore I will gladly do it and for a very good price. Just send me a message and let me know.


----------



## Bertha

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #4 Restored w/ new premium blade & chip breaker*
> 
> This #4 smoothing plane is the most fine tuned of all my planes. I also upgraded it by replacing the old blade and breaker with a premium quality Pinnacle IBC blade and chip breaker. Once I got this gem tuned and sharp the power sanders were tucked away on a shelf in my shop. I use this plane to finish smooth my projects and the new blade makes it a true joy to use on almost any type of wood. The restoration process for the plane is the same as I used in the other planes. You can check my previous blogs in this series to find the how to's on my rust removal and polishing as I explain them in great detail. In this blog I want to focus on the blade and its advantages on the old plane.
> 
> When I first got into hand planes I knew nothing at all about them or how they worked so I did my research. I spent many many hours reading various blogs, forums and websites with hand plane information. I also watched a lot of videos on how to tune and use the planes. When researching the planes I would find some guys say "you need a quality blade for your plane to work" while others would argue great results with the original blades. Had I not done my research I might think I need to buy a premium blade in order to use my old plane. Well if any of you are researching just like I did and you have stumbled across this blog let me tell you that "you DON'T need an expensive premium blade/breaker to make your old plane a great user". However replacing the blade and chip breaker with a premium set will make your plane perform a lot smoother.
> 
> I actually bought new blades and breakers for two of my planes. I bought an A2 Hock blade and breaker for my #7 and I got the Pinnacle set for my #4. The IBC Pinnacle set cost me 5 times what I paid for the plane so it was not an easy purchase to make but I am glad I did. The new blade and breaker are much thicker and the big advantage is the plane does not chatter or tear out when working with harder woods or woods with difficult grain patterns. With the old blade I had to be careful and pay close attn to the grain direction or I would get tear out. With the Pinnacle blade I have not had any problem with grain direction. I have even planed the wood against the grain without getting any tear out. The blade also works much better on edge and end grain. If I hit a knot in the board it does not slow the new blade down at all where the old one would chatter. It really does make a big difference in the performance of the plane.
> 
> My advice on upgrading to a new blade is this… If you use the plane a lot and work with a lot of hard woods and have the money then go for it. If your on a tighter budget you may want to save the money for other more needed tools and make do with the old blade. I think its more of a luxury then anything to have the premium blade. The last couple pictures show the plane in use on a piece of cherry wood which in my experience has been very tricky to plane without tear out. The new blade went through the cherry as if was a piece of softwood.


I think you're the one that turned me onto the IBC pair. I recently loaded one up in a jointer and I've been really impressed. I'd been a Hock guy forever. Nice job on the restore!


----------



## woodspark

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #4 Restored w/ new premium blade & chip breaker*
> 
> This #4 smoothing plane is the most fine tuned of all my planes. I also upgraded it by replacing the old blade and breaker with a premium quality Pinnacle IBC blade and chip breaker. Once I got this gem tuned and sharp the power sanders were tucked away on a shelf in my shop. I use this plane to finish smooth my projects and the new blade makes it a true joy to use on almost any type of wood. The restoration process for the plane is the same as I used in the other planes. You can check my previous blogs in this series to find the how to's on my rust removal and polishing as I explain them in great detail. In this blog I want to focus on the blade and its advantages on the old plane.
> 
> When I first got into hand planes I knew nothing at all about them or how they worked so I did my research. I spent many many hours reading various blogs, forums and websites with hand plane information. I also watched a lot of videos on how to tune and use the planes. When researching the planes I would find some guys say "you need a quality blade for your plane to work" while others would argue great results with the original blades. Had I not done my research I might think I need to buy a premium blade in order to use my old plane. Well if any of you are researching just like I did and you have stumbled across this blog let me tell you that "you DON'T need an expensive premium blade/breaker to make your old plane a great user". However replacing the blade and chip breaker with a premium set will make your plane perform a lot smoother.
> 
> I actually bought new blades and breakers for two of my planes. I bought an A2 Hock blade and breaker for my #7 and I got the Pinnacle set for my #4. The IBC Pinnacle set cost me 5 times what I paid for the plane so it was not an easy purchase to make but I am glad I did. The new blade and breaker are much thicker and the big advantage is the plane does not chatter or tear out when working with harder woods or woods with difficult grain patterns. With the old blade I had to be careful and pay close attn to the grain direction or I would get tear out. With the Pinnacle blade I have not had any problem with grain direction. I have even planed the wood against the grain without getting any tear out. The blade also works much better on edge and end grain. If I hit a knot in the board it does not slow the new blade down at all where the old one would chatter. It really does make a big difference in the performance of the plane.
> 
> My advice on upgrading to a new blade is this… If you use the plane a lot and work with a lot of hard woods and have the money then go for it. If your on a tighter budget you may want to save the money for other more needed tools and make do with the old blade. I think its more of a luxury then anything to have the premium blade. The last couple pictures show the plane in use on a piece of cherry wood which in my experience has been very tricky to plane without tear out. The new blade went through the cherry as if was a piece of softwood.


Well done Dan! One day my planes will receive the same treatment….


----------



## Furnitude

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #4 Restored w/ new premium blade & chip breaker*
> 
> This #4 smoothing plane is the most fine tuned of all my planes. I also upgraded it by replacing the old blade and breaker with a premium quality Pinnacle IBC blade and chip breaker. Once I got this gem tuned and sharp the power sanders were tucked away on a shelf in my shop. I use this plane to finish smooth my projects and the new blade makes it a true joy to use on almost any type of wood. The restoration process for the plane is the same as I used in the other planes. You can check my previous blogs in this series to find the how to's on my rust removal and polishing as I explain them in great detail. In this blog I want to focus on the blade and its advantages on the old plane.
> 
> When I first got into hand planes I knew nothing at all about them or how they worked so I did my research. I spent many many hours reading various blogs, forums and websites with hand plane information. I also watched a lot of videos on how to tune and use the planes. When researching the planes I would find some guys say "you need a quality blade for your plane to work" while others would argue great results with the original blades. Had I not done my research I might think I need to buy a premium blade in order to use my old plane. Well if any of you are researching just like I did and you have stumbled across this blog let me tell you that "you DON'T need an expensive premium blade/breaker to make your old plane a great user". However replacing the blade and chip breaker with a premium set will make your plane perform a lot smoother.
> 
> I actually bought new blades and breakers for two of my planes. I bought an A2 Hock blade and breaker for my #7 and I got the Pinnacle set for my #4. The IBC Pinnacle set cost me 5 times what I paid for the plane so it was not an easy purchase to make but I am glad I did. The new blade and breaker are much thicker and the big advantage is the plane does not chatter or tear out when working with harder woods or woods with difficult grain patterns. With the old blade I had to be careful and pay close attn to the grain direction or I would get tear out. With the Pinnacle blade I have not had any problem with grain direction. I have even planed the wood against the grain without getting any tear out. The blade also works much better on edge and end grain. If I hit a knot in the board it does not slow the new blade down at all where the old one would chatter. It really does make a big difference in the performance of the plane.
> 
> My advice on upgrading to a new blade is this… If you use the plane a lot and work with a lot of hard woods and have the money then go for it. If your on a tighter budget you may want to save the money for other more needed tools and make do with the old blade. I think its more of a luxury then anything to have the premium blade. The last couple pictures show the plane in use on a piece of cherry wood which in my experience has been very tricky to plane without tear out. The new blade went through the cherry as if was a piece of softwood.


Looks like you did a great job. Would you mind saying a bit more about your process? How do you clean them? What kind of materials do you use?

Update: I just saw that you have more posts about restoring planes, so I'll start there. Thanks!


----------



## teejk

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #4 Restored w/ new premium blade & chip breaker*
> 
> This #4 smoothing plane is the most fine tuned of all my planes. I also upgraded it by replacing the old blade and breaker with a premium quality Pinnacle IBC blade and chip breaker. Once I got this gem tuned and sharp the power sanders were tucked away on a shelf in my shop. I use this plane to finish smooth my projects and the new blade makes it a true joy to use on almost any type of wood. The restoration process for the plane is the same as I used in the other planes. You can check my previous blogs in this series to find the how to's on my rust removal and polishing as I explain them in great detail. In this blog I want to focus on the blade and its advantages on the old plane.
> 
> When I first got into hand planes I knew nothing at all about them or how they worked so I did my research. I spent many many hours reading various blogs, forums and websites with hand plane information. I also watched a lot of videos on how to tune and use the planes. When researching the planes I would find some guys say "you need a quality blade for your plane to work" while others would argue great results with the original blades. Had I not done my research I might think I need to buy a premium blade in order to use my old plane. Well if any of you are researching just like I did and you have stumbled across this blog let me tell you that "you DON'T need an expensive premium blade/breaker to make your old plane a great user". However replacing the blade and chip breaker with a premium set will make your plane perform a lot smoother.
> 
> I actually bought new blades and breakers for two of my planes. I bought an A2 Hock blade and breaker for my #7 and I got the Pinnacle set for my #4. The IBC Pinnacle set cost me 5 times what I paid for the plane so it was not an easy purchase to make but I am glad I did. The new blade and breaker are much thicker and the big advantage is the plane does not chatter or tear out when working with harder woods or woods with difficult grain patterns. With the old blade I had to be careful and pay close attn to the grain direction or I would get tear out. With the Pinnacle blade I have not had any problem with grain direction. I have even planed the wood against the grain without getting any tear out. The blade also works much better on edge and end grain. If I hit a knot in the board it does not slow the new blade down at all where the old one would chatter. It really does make a big difference in the performance of the plane.
> 
> My advice on upgrading to a new blade is this… If you use the plane a lot and work with a lot of hard woods and have the money then go for it. If your on a tighter budget you may want to save the money for other more needed tools and make do with the old blade. I think its more of a luxury then anything to have the premium blade. The last couple pictures show the plane in use on a piece of cherry wood which in my experience has been very tricky to plane without tear out. The new blade went through the cherry as if was a piece of softwood.


nice post! I picked up a #4 and a #5 (plus a little Stanley "pocket plane") on E-bay a few years ago for about $40 for the lot. Mine have a yellow "stanley" mark on the front so I don't think they are that old.

all were in "fair" condition but a little surgical work with rust remover and a very fine wire brush on the bench grinder made them look like new. They work ok but I think they are in need of new blades ("irons" I guess for the perfectionists). I'll check out the Pinnacles.


----------



## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #4 Restored w/ new premium blade & chip breaker*
> 
> This #4 smoothing plane is the most fine tuned of all my planes. I also upgraded it by replacing the old blade and breaker with a premium quality Pinnacle IBC blade and chip breaker. Once I got this gem tuned and sharp the power sanders were tucked away on a shelf in my shop. I use this plane to finish smooth my projects and the new blade makes it a true joy to use on almost any type of wood. The restoration process for the plane is the same as I used in the other planes. You can check my previous blogs in this series to find the how to's on my rust removal and polishing as I explain them in great detail. In this blog I want to focus on the blade and its advantages on the old plane.
> 
> When I first got into hand planes I knew nothing at all about them or how they worked so I did my research. I spent many many hours reading various blogs, forums and websites with hand plane information. I also watched a lot of videos on how to tune and use the planes. When researching the planes I would find some guys say "you need a quality blade for your plane to work" while others would argue great results with the original blades. Had I not done my research I might think I need to buy a premium blade in order to use my old plane. Well if any of you are researching just like I did and you have stumbled across this blog let me tell you that "you DON'T need an expensive premium blade/breaker to make your old plane a great user". However replacing the blade and chip breaker with a premium set will make your plane perform a lot smoother.
> 
> I actually bought new blades and breakers for two of my planes. I bought an A2 Hock blade and breaker for my #7 and I got the Pinnacle set for my #4. The IBC Pinnacle set cost me 5 times what I paid for the plane so it was not an easy purchase to make but I am glad I did. The new blade and breaker are much thicker and the big advantage is the plane does not chatter or tear out when working with harder woods or woods with difficult grain patterns. With the old blade I had to be careful and pay close attn to the grain direction or I would get tear out. With the Pinnacle blade I have not had any problem with grain direction. I have even planed the wood against the grain without getting any tear out. The blade also works much better on edge and end grain. If I hit a knot in the board it does not slow the new blade down at all where the old one would chatter. It really does make a big difference in the performance of the plane.
> 
> My advice on upgrading to a new blade is this… If you use the plane a lot and work with a lot of hard woods and have the money then go for it. If your on a tighter budget you may want to save the money for other more needed tools and make do with the old blade. I think its more of a luxury then anything to have the premium blade. The last couple pictures show the plane in use on a piece of cherry wood which in my experience has been very tricky to plane without tear out. The new blade went through the cherry as if was a piece of softwood.


Skarp- I agree that the blade is the key element of the plane. I say the new blade is a luxury only because I still use the old blades in my other planes and they perform very well. They don't cut as nice and easily as the premium blades but they are still very usable. If you are using an old blade it will need a lot of work to get it flat and sharp and square though.

Mitch- I was just going to remind you then I saw you found it.

To anyone wanting to know the whole process please check out my earlier blogs in this series. I go over most all of the process that I do on each plane and tell you what products I use. The later parts of the blog series are mostly just to show the before and after of the individual planes that I restored. I didn't want to re-type the whole process that I do for each blog. The earlier blogs show more pics during the restoration process also.

Al - I did do a review of the IBC blade and breaker when I bought it, you may have read it back then. I couldn't decide on going with the IBC set or getting a Hock set so I ended up buying both. They are both great sets and its hard to compare the quality. I don't think i have put enough hours on them to say one is better then the other. I do know that the IBC blade set is thicker though so that does add more mass which probably helps.

teejk- I don't know that the age of the plane is as important as having it fine tuned. Not only do you want a square and sharp blade but you also want to make sure the frog is sanded flat and the bottom of the plane is flat. I still use the old blades in my other planes and I get good results.


----------



## teejk

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #4 Restored w/ new premium blade & chip breaker*
> 
> This #4 smoothing plane is the most fine tuned of all my planes. I also upgraded it by replacing the old blade and breaker with a premium quality Pinnacle IBC blade and chip breaker. Once I got this gem tuned and sharp the power sanders were tucked away on a shelf in my shop. I use this plane to finish smooth my projects and the new blade makes it a true joy to use on almost any type of wood. The restoration process for the plane is the same as I used in the other planes. You can check my previous blogs in this series to find the how to's on my rust removal and polishing as I explain them in great detail. In this blog I want to focus on the blade and its advantages on the old plane.
> 
> When I first got into hand planes I knew nothing at all about them or how they worked so I did my research. I spent many many hours reading various blogs, forums and websites with hand plane information. I also watched a lot of videos on how to tune and use the planes. When researching the planes I would find some guys say "you need a quality blade for your plane to work" while others would argue great results with the original blades. Had I not done my research I might think I need to buy a premium blade in order to use my old plane. Well if any of you are researching just like I did and you have stumbled across this blog let me tell you that "you DON'T need an expensive premium blade/breaker to make your old plane a great user". However replacing the blade and chip breaker with a premium set will make your plane perform a lot smoother.
> 
> I actually bought new blades and breakers for two of my planes. I bought an A2 Hock blade and breaker for my #7 and I got the Pinnacle set for my #4. The IBC Pinnacle set cost me 5 times what I paid for the plane so it was not an easy purchase to make but I am glad I did. The new blade and breaker are much thicker and the big advantage is the plane does not chatter or tear out when working with harder woods or woods with difficult grain patterns. With the old blade I had to be careful and pay close attn to the grain direction or I would get tear out. With the Pinnacle blade I have not had any problem with grain direction. I have even planed the wood against the grain without getting any tear out. The blade also works much better on edge and end grain. If I hit a knot in the board it does not slow the new blade down at all where the old one would chatter. It really does make a big difference in the performance of the plane.
> 
> My advice on upgrading to a new blade is this… If you use the plane a lot and work with a lot of hard woods and have the money then go for it. If your on a tighter budget you may want to save the money for other more needed tools and make do with the old blade. I think its more of a luxury then anything to have the premium blade. The last couple pictures show the plane in use on a piece of cherry wood which in my experience has been very tricky to plane without tear out. The new blade went through the cherry as if was a piece of softwood.


thanks Dan my planes cleaned up nice enough with a lot of time and patience including final finishing of the base up to 500 grit wet/dry and no feeler gauge I own will detect a gap.

I suspect the irons were a bit "abused" and are a little more than "off" from square to the plane base. Easy enough to compensate some with the Stanley mechanism but it would still be nice to keep the indicator at a dead 90.

I still have plenty of "slot" available on the original irons and I guess with some more time I can grind the edges down square then go back to work on the bevel and edge. One issue I have seen is the locking mechanism on the #5 (doesn't seem to want to lock and stay) but I'm sure I'll figure it out.

thanks again!


----------



## Dwain

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #4 Restored w/ new premium blade & chip breaker*
> 
> This #4 smoothing plane is the most fine tuned of all my planes. I also upgraded it by replacing the old blade and breaker with a premium quality Pinnacle IBC blade and chip breaker. Once I got this gem tuned and sharp the power sanders were tucked away on a shelf in my shop. I use this plane to finish smooth my projects and the new blade makes it a true joy to use on almost any type of wood. The restoration process for the plane is the same as I used in the other planes. You can check my previous blogs in this series to find the how to's on my rust removal and polishing as I explain them in great detail. In this blog I want to focus on the blade and its advantages on the old plane.
> 
> When I first got into hand planes I knew nothing at all about them or how they worked so I did my research. I spent many many hours reading various blogs, forums and websites with hand plane information. I also watched a lot of videos on how to tune and use the planes. When researching the planes I would find some guys say "you need a quality blade for your plane to work" while others would argue great results with the original blades. Had I not done my research I might think I need to buy a premium blade in order to use my old plane. Well if any of you are researching just like I did and you have stumbled across this blog let me tell you that "you DON'T need an expensive premium blade/breaker to make your old plane a great user". However replacing the blade and chip breaker with a premium set will make your plane perform a lot smoother.
> 
> I actually bought new blades and breakers for two of my planes. I bought an A2 Hock blade and breaker for my #7 and I got the Pinnacle set for my #4. The IBC Pinnacle set cost me 5 times what I paid for the plane so it was not an easy purchase to make but I am glad I did. The new blade and breaker are much thicker and the big advantage is the plane does not chatter or tear out when working with harder woods or woods with difficult grain patterns. With the old blade I had to be careful and pay close attn to the grain direction or I would get tear out. With the Pinnacle blade I have not had any problem with grain direction. I have even planed the wood against the grain without getting any tear out. The blade also works much better on edge and end grain. If I hit a knot in the board it does not slow the new blade down at all where the old one would chatter. It really does make a big difference in the performance of the plane.
> 
> My advice on upgrading to a new blade is this… If you use the plane a lot and work with a lot of hard woods and have the money then go for it. If your on a tighter budget you may want to save the money for other more needed tools and make do with the old blade. I think its more of a luxury then anything to have the premium blade. The last couple pictures show the plane in use on a piece of cherry wood which in my experience has been very tricky to plane without tear out. The new blade went through the cherry as if was a piece of softwood.


Dan,

I too am looking to upgrade some of my planes with new blades and chippers. I am curious, did you have to open the mouth of your #4 to fit the IBC blade? The advantages of that really thick blade are obvious, however I don't want to make that kind of change to the plane if I can help it. I see you thought the Hock blade worked well also. I was thinking of going with either Hock or Lee Valley. Lee Valley is cheaper, but not by much. Lee Valley also has A2, while Hock of the closest price is HSS. Not sure there are many advantages one way or the other, but am looking forward to seeing your input as you continue to use the planes.


----------



## superdav721

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #4 Restored w/ new premium blade & chip breaker*
> 
> This #4 smoothing plane is the most fine tuned of all my planes. I also upgraded it by replacing the old blade and breaker with a premium quality Pinnacle IBC blade and chip breaker. Once I got this gem tuned and sharp the power sanders were tucked away on a shelf in my shop. I use this plane to finish smooth my projects and the new blade makes it a true joy to use on almost any type of wood. The restoration process for the plane is the same as I used in the other planes. You can check my previous blogs in this series to find the how to's on my rust removal and polishing as I explain them in great detail. In this blog I want to focus on the blade and its advantages on the old plane.
> 
> When I first got into hand planes I knew nothing at all about them or how they worked so I did my research. I spent many many hours reading various blogs, forums and websites with hand plane information. I also watched a lot of videos on how to tune and use the planes. When researching the planes I would find some guys say "you need a quality blade for your plane to work" while others would argue great results with the original blades. Had I not done my research I might think I need to buy a premium blade in order to use my old plane. Well if any of you are researching just like I did and you have stumbled across this blog let me tell you that "you DON'T need an expensive premium blade/breaker to make your old plane a great user". However replacing the blade and chip breaker with a premium set will make your plane perform a lot smoother.
> 
> I actually bought new blades and breakers for two of my planes. I bought an A2 Hock blade and breaker for my #7 and I got the Pinnacle set for my #4. The IBC Pinnacle set cost me 5 times what I paid for the plane so it was not an easy purchase to make but I am glad I did. The new blade and breaker are much thicker and the big advantage is the plane does not chatter or tear out when working with harder woods or woods with difficult grain patterns. With the old blade I had to be careful and pay close attn to the grain direction or I would get tear out. With the Pinnacle blade I have not had any problem with grain direction. I have even planed the wood against the grain without getting any tear out. The blade also works much better on edge and end grain. If I hit a knot in the board it does not slow the new blade down at all where the old one would chatter. It really does make a big difference in the performance of the plane.
> 
> My advice on upgrading to a new blade is this… If you use the plane a lot and work with a lot of hard woods and have the money then go for it. If your on a tighter budget you may want to save the money for other more needed tools and make do with the old blade. I think its more of a luxury then anything to have the premium blade. The last couple pictures show the plane in use on a piece of cherry wood which in my experience has been very tricky to plane without tear out. The new blade went through the cherry as if was a piece of softwood.


Great work Dan, again. Museum quality. Remember "I am not a collector!" 
Buy the way when do you sleep? I am doing good in the week to steal a couple of hours in the shop.


----------



## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #4 Restored w/ new premium blade & chip breaker*
> 
> This #4 smoothing plane is the most fine tuned of all my planes. I also upgraded it by replacing the old blade and breaker with a premium quality Pinnacle IBC blade and chip breaker. Once I got this gem tuned and sharp the power sanders were tucked away on a shelf in my shop. I use this plane to finish smooth my projects and the new blade makes it a true joy to use on almost any type of wood. The restoration process for the plane is the same as I used in the other planes. You can check my previous blogs in this series to find the how to's on my rust removal and polishing as I explain them in great detail. In this blog I want to focus on the blade and its advantages on the old plane.
> 
> When I first got into hand planes I knew nothing at all about them or how they worked so I did my research. I spent many many hours reading various blogs, forums and websites with hand plane information. I also watched a lot of videos on how to tune and use the planes. When researching the planes I would find some guys say "you need a quality blade for your plane to work" while others would argue great results with the original blades. Had I not done my research I might think I need to buy a premium blade in order to use my old plane. Well if any of you are researching just like I did and you have stumbled across this blog let me tell you that "you DON'T need an expensive premium blade/breaker to make your old plane a great user". However replacing the blade and chip breaker with a premium set will make your plane perform a lot smoother.
> 
> I actually bought new blades and breakers for two of my planes. I bought an A2 Hock blade and breaker for my #7 and I got the Pinnacle set for my #4. The IBC Pinnacle set cost me 5 times what I paid for the plane so it was not an easy purchase to make but I am glad I did. The new blade and breaker are much thicker and the big advantage is the plane does not chatter or tear out when working with harder woods or woods with difficult grain patterns. With the old blade I had to be careful and pay close attn to the grain direction or I would get tear out. With the Pinnacle blade I have not had any problem with grain direction. I have even planed the wood against the grain without getting any tear out. The blade also works much better on edge and end grain. If I hit a knot in the board it does not slow the new blade down at all where the old one would chatter. It really does make a big difference in the performance of the plane.
> 
> My advice on upgrading to a new blade is this… If you use the plane a lot and work with a lot of hard woods and have the money then go for it. If your on a tighter budget you may want to save the money for other more needed tools and make do with the old blade. I think its more of a luxury then anything to have the premium blade. The last couple pictures show the plane in use on a piece of cherry wood which in my experience has been very tricky to plane without tear out. The new blade went through the cherry as if was a piece of softwood.


Dwain- I did have to file the mouth of the plane to fit the new IBC blade. I also had to file the mouth of my other plane to fit my HOCK blade and breaker. It was really easy and straight forward to do. Rob Cosman who sponsors the IBC blade and breaker set has a video/dvd in which he shows you how to do it. My blade came with the dvd and instructions.

Dave- thanks… I do get sleep, I have been working on these planes for a while. Some of them were completed months ago but I am just now posting them with the pictures… I don't have heat in my shop so I actually did most all of these restorations in my house. It kept me busy this winter and gave me something to do.


----------



## Dennisgrosen

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #4 Restored w/ new premium blade & chip breaker*
> 
> This #4 smoothing plane is the most fine tuned of all my planes. I also upgraded it by replacing the old blade and breaker with a premium quality Pinnacle IBC blade and chip breaker. Once I got this gem tuned and sharp the power sanders were tucked away on a shelf in my shop. I use this plane to finish smooth my projects and the new blade makes it a true joy to use on almost any type of wood. The restoration process for the plane is the same as I used in the other planes. You can check my previous blogs in this series to find the how to's on my rust removal and polishing as I explain them in great detail. In this blog I want to focus on the blade and its advantages on the old plane.
> 
> When I first got into hand planes I knew nothing at all about them or how they worked so I did my research. I spent many many hours reading various blogs, forums and websites with hand plane information. I also watched a lot of videos on how to tune and use the planes. When researching the planes I would find some guys say "you need a quality blade for your plane to work" while others would argue great results with the original blades. Had I not done my research I might think I need to buy a premium blade in order to use my old plane. Well if any of you are researching just like I did and you have stumbled across this blog let me tell you that "you DON'T need an expensive premium blade/breaker to make your old plane a great user". However replacing the blade and chip breaker with a premium set will make your plane perform a lot smoother.
> 
> I actually bought new blades and breakers for two of my planes. I bought an A2 Hock blade and breaker for my #7 and I got the Pinnacle set for my #4. The IBC Pinnacle set cost me 5 times what I paid for the plane so it was not an easy purchase to make but I am glad I did. The new blade and breaker are much thicker and the big advantage is the plane does not chatter or tear out when working with harder woods or woods with difficult grain patterns. With the old blade I had to be careful and pay close attn to the grain direction or I would get tear out. With the Pinnacle blade I have not had any problem with grain direction. I have even planed the wood against the grain without getting any tear out. The blade also works much better on edge and end grain. If I hit a knot in the board it does not slow the new blade down at all where the old one would chatter. It really does make a big difference in the performance of the plane.
> 
> My advice on upgrading to a new blade is this… If you use the plane a lot and work with a lot of hard woods and have the money then go for it. If your on a tighter budget you may want to save the money for other more needed tools and make do with the old blade. I think its more of a luxury then anything to have the premium blade. The last couple pictures show the plane in use on a piece of cherry wood which in my experience has been very tricky to plane without tear out. The new blade went through the cherry as if was a piece of softwood.


another great restoring job from you Dan 

take care
Dennis


----------



## Blasthoff

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #4 Restored w/ new premium blade & chip breaker*
> 
> This #4 smoothing plane is the most fine tuned of all my planes. I also upgraded it by replacing the old blade and breaker with a premium quality Pinnacle IBC blade and chip breaker. Once I got this gem tuned and sharp the power sanders were tucked away on a shelf in my shop. I use this plane to finish smooth my projects and the new blade makes it a true joy to use on almost any type of wood. The restoration process for the plane is the same as I used in the other planes. You can check my previous blogs in this series to find the how to's on my rust removal and polishing as I explain them in great detail. In this blog I want to focus on the blade and its advantages on the old plane.
> 
> When I first got into hand planes I knew nothing at all about them or how they worked so I did my research. I spent many many hours reading various blogs, forums and websites with hand plane information. I also watched a lot of videos on how to tune and use the planes. When researching the planes I would find some guys say "you need a quality blade for your plane to work" while others would argue great results with the original blades. Had I not done my research I might think I need to buy a premium blade in order to use my old plane. Well if any of you are researching just like I did and you have stumbled across this blog let me tell you that "you DON'T need an expensive premium blade/breaker to make your old plane a great user". However replacing the blade and chip breaker with a premium set will make your plane perform a lot smoother.
> 
> I actually bought new blades and breakers for two of my planes. I bought an A2 Hock blade and breaker for my #7 and I got the Pinnacle set for my #4. The IBC Pinnacle set cost me 5 times what I paid for the plane so it was not an easy purchase to make but I am glad I did. The new blade and breaker are much thicker and the big advantage is the plane does not chatter or tear out when working with harder woods or woods with difficult grain patterns. With the old blade I had to be careful and pay close attn to the grain direction or I would get tear out. With the Pinnacle blade I have not had any problem with grain direction. I have even planed the wood against the grain without getting any tear out. The blade also works much better on edge and end grain. If I hit a knot in the board it does not slow the new blade down at all where the old one would chatter. It really does make a big difference in the performance of the plane.
> 
> My advice on upgrading to a new blade is this… If you use the plane a lot and work with a lot of hard woods and have the money then go for it. If your on a tighter budget you may want to save the money for other more needed tools and make do with the old blade. I think its more of a luxury then anything to have the premium blade. The last couple pictures show the plane in use on a piece of cherry wood which in my experience has been very tricky to plane without tear out. The new blade went through the cherry as if was a piece of softwood.


Nice job Dan! I have also caught the bug of restoring these fine tools. I also appreciate the input on blades. Your analysis is just about what I figured. By coincidence just last night I bought my first blade "upgrade" stumbling on an opportunity to save a few bucks. I went the distance and ordered a new chip breaker to go with it. I have had the itch of wanting to "see for myself". It is for a #7 that I am almost finished restoring and I have dreams of this thing gliding like silk. Hopefully I'll have everything ready to go this weekend. I already have a board set aside to be trued, squared and dimensioned.

Thanks for Sharing,

Bill


----------



## PaBull

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #4 Restored w/ new premium blade & chip breaker*
> 
> This #4 smoothing plane is the most fine tuned of all my planes. I also upgraded it by replacing the old blade and breaker with a premium quality Pinnacle IBC blade and chip breaker. Once I got this gem tuned and sharp the power sanders were tucked away on a shelf in my shop. I use this plane to finish smooth my projects and the new blade makes it a true joy to use on almost any type of wood. The restoration process for the plane is the same as I used in the other planes. You can check my previous blogs in this series to find the how to's on my rust removal and polishing as I explain them in great detail. In this blog I want to focus on the blade and its advantages on the old plane.
> 
> When I first got into hand planes I knew nothing at all about them or how they worked so I did my research. I spent many many hours reading various blogs, forums and websites with hand plane information. I also watched a lot of videos on how to tune and use the planes. When researching the planes I would find some guys say "you need a quality blade for your plane to work" while others would argue great results with the original blades. Had I not done my research I might think I need to buy a premium blade in order to use my old plane. Well if any of you are researching just like I did and you have stumbled across this blog let me tell you that "you DON'T need an expensive premium blade/breaker to make your old plane a great user". However replacing the blade and chip breaker with a premium set will make your plane perform a lot smoother.
> 
> I actually bought new blades and breakers for two of my planes. I bought an A2 Hock blade and breaker for my #7 and I got the Pinnacle set for my #4. The IBC Pinnacle set cost me 5 times what I paid for the plane so it was not an easy purchase to make but I am glad I did. The new blade and breaker are much thicker and the big advantage is the plane does not chatter or tear out when working with harder woods or woods with difficult grain patterns. With the old blade I had to be careful and pay close attn to the grain direction or I would get tear out. With the Pinnacle blade I have not had any problem with grain direction. I have even planed the wood against the grain without getting any tear out. The blade also works much better on edge and end grain. If I hit a knot in the board it does not slow the new blade down at all where the old one would chatter. It really does make a big difference in the performance of the plane.
> 
> My advice on upgrading to a new blade is this… If you use the plane a lot and work with a lot of hard woods and have the money then go for it. If your on a tighter budget you may want to save the money for other more needed tools and make do with the old blade. I think its more of a luxury then anything to have the premium blade. The last couple pictures show the plane in use on a piece of cherry wood which in my experience has been very tricky to plane without tear out. The new blade went through the cherry as if was a piece of softwood.


Dan, I will take this oppertunity to show off *MY* #6, my Keen Kutter K6, that has *YOUR* blade in it. It works fantastic. All the hardware you send me fits, thread and all. And this plane has helped me flatten pine boards that needed to be glued together.










Aagin, thanks Dan!!


----------



## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #4 Restored w/ new premium blade & chip breaker*
> 
> This #4 smoothing plane is the most fine tuned of all my planes. I also upgraded it by replacing the old blade and breaker with a premium quality Pinnacle IBC blade and chip breaker. Once I got this gem tuned and sharp the power sanders were tucked away on a shelf in my shop. I use this plane to finish smooth my projects and the new blade makes it a true joy to use on almost any type of wood. The restoration process for the plane is the same as I used in the other planes. You can check my previous blogs in this series to find the how to's on my rust removal and polishing as I explain them in great detail. In this blog I want to focus on the blade and its advantages on the old plane.
> 
> When I first got into hand planes I knew nothing at all about them or how they worked so I did my research. I spent many many hours reading various blogs, forums and websites with hand plane information. I also watched a lot of videos on how to tune and use the planes. When researching the planes I would find some guys say "you need a quality blade for your plane to work" while others would argue great results with the original blades. Had I not done my research I might think I need to buy a premium blade in order to use my old plane. Well if any of you are researching just like I did and you have stumbled across this blog let me tell you that "you DON'T need an expensive premium blade/breaker to make your old plane a great user". However replacing the blade and chip breaker with a premium set will make your plane perform a lot smoother.
> 
> I actually bought new blades and breakers for two of my planes. I bought an A2 Hock blade and breaker for my #7 and I got the Pinnacle set for my #4. The IBC Pinnacle set cost me 5 times what I paid for the plane so it was not an easy purchase to make but I am glad I did. The new blade and breaker are much thicker and the big advantage is the plane does not chatter or tear out when working with harder woods or woods with difficult grain patterns. With the old blade I had to be careful and pay close attn to the grain direction or I would get tear out. With the Pinnacle blade I have not had any problem with grain direction. I have even planed the wood against the grain without getting any tear out. The blade also works much better on edge and end grain. If I hit a knot in the board it does not slow the new blade down at all where the old one would chatter. It really does make a big difference in the performance of the plane.
> 
> My advice on upgrading to a new blade is this… If you use the plane a lot and work with a lot of hard woods and have the money then go for it. If your on a tighter budget you may want to save the money for other more needed tools and make do with the old blade. I think its more of a luxury then anything to have the premium blade. The last couple pictures show the plane in use on a piece of cherry wood which in my experience has been very tricky to plane without tear out. The new blade went through the cherry as if was a piece of softwood.


PaBull - Again, I am glad I could help. I am sure you will find a lot of use with your plane. I recently restored a #6 Stanley and I find myself using it a lot more then some of my others.


----------



## Dcase

*Old woodworking square restored... A little break from the planes*

I have restored mostly just hand planes but I do sometimes find other old tools that I will restore. Somewhere along the road of searching for old planes I found this square and picked it up. Any old tool with Rosewood and brass is worth restoring IMO.

I have no idea who made this as there are no markings other then some hand cut markings on the metal rule, maybe previous owners stamp idk? That really does not matter though, what matters is that another old tool has been rescued, given new life and will now serve me in my shop.

This restoration only took me a couple hours which is quick compared to the planes. I cleaned the metal rule up with oil and wet/dry paper. I removed the brass parts which was the biggest challenge due to the small screws and their condition. Once removed I lapped the brass plate flat and polished the rest. I spent a little time tuning it all so that it would be fine tuned for using.

The Rosewood part was sanded and finished with a couple coats of tung oil.


----------



## swirt

Dcase said:


> *Old woodworking square restored... A little break from the planes*
> 
> I have restored mostly just hand planes but I do sometimes find other old tools that I will restore. Somewhere along the road of searching for old planes I found this square and picked it up. Any old tool with Rosewood and brass is worth restoring IMO.
> 
> I have no idea who made this as there are no markings other then some hand cut markings on the metal rule, maybe previous owners stamp idk? That really does not matter though, what matters is that another old tool has been rescued, given new life and will now serve me in my shop.
> 
> This restoration only took me a couple hours which is quick compared to the planes. I cleaned the metal rule up with oil and wet/dry paper. I removed the brass parts which was the biggest challenge due to the small screws and their condition. Once removed I lapped the brass plate flat and polished the rest. I spent a little time tuning it all so that it would be fine tuned for using.
> 
> The Rosewood part was sanded and finished with a couple coats of tung oil.


Very nice restore Dan. I have a similar try square but the brass fence is not held on with screws. I am actually not sure what is holding it on.

How did you remove the brass clover? Mine seem to be held in place by the three peened rods that secure the blade.


----------



## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *Old woodworking square restored... A little break from the planes*
> 
> I have restored mostly just hand planes but I do sometimes find other old tools that I will restore. Somewhere along the road of searching for old planes I found this square and picked it up. Any old tool with Rosewood and brass is worth restoring IMO.
> 
> I have no idea who made this as there are no markings other then some hand cut markings on the metal rule, maybe previous owners stamp idk? That really does not matter though, what matters is that another old tool has been rescued, given new life and will now serve me in my shop.
> 
> This restoration only took me a couple hours which is quick compared to the planes. I cleaned the metal rule up with oil and wet/dry paper. I removed the brass parts which was the biggest challenge due to the small screws and their condition. Once removed I lapped the brass plate flat and polished the rest. I spent a little time tuning it all so that it would be fine tuned for using.
> 
> The Rosewood part was sanded and finished with a couple coats of tung oil.


I removed the clover by slightly hammering the three pins that hold it in. From what I saw they were just set in there so I used a nail set and hammer to knock them loose. I did NOT take the pins all the way out. I only punched them out enough to remove the clover so I could sand the handle w out scratching up the brass.


----------



## Woodinville

Dcase said:


> *Old woodworking square restored... A little break from the planes*
> 
> I have restored mostly just hand planes but I do sometimes find other old tools that I will restore. Somewhere along the road of searching for old planes I found this square and picked it up. Any old tool with Rosewood and brass is worth restoring IMO.
> 
> I have no idea who made this as there are no markings other then some hand cut markings on the metal rule, maybe previous owners stamp idk? That really does not matter though, what matters is that another old tool has been rescued, given new life and will now serve me in my shop.
> 
> This restoration only took me a couple hours which is quick compared to the planes. I cleaned the metal rule up with oil and wet/dry paper. I removed the brass parts which was the biggest challenge due to the small screws and their condition. Once removed I lapped the brass plate flat and polished the rest. I spent a little time tuning it all so that it would be fine tuned for using.
> 
> The Rosewood part was sanded and finished with a couple coats of tung oil.


Well done, Dan!
I must say you have peaked my interest!
Where does one find such old tools?
I never see anything like it at the garage sales near where I live.
What would say is a fair price to pay if I could find an old try square 
like yours.

I dare say that it would be preferable to own a restored vintage try square than a new one.(Subject to accuracy of course.)


----------



## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *Old woodworking square restored... A little break from the planes*
> 
> I have restored mostly just hand planes but I do sometimes find other old tools that I will restore. Somewhere along the road of searching for old planes I found this square and picked it up. Any old tool with Rosewood and brass is worth restoring IMO.
> 
> I have no idea who made this as there are no markings other then some hand cut markings on the metal rule, maybe previous owners stamp idk? That really does not matter though, what matters is that another old tool has been rescued, given new life and will now serve me in my shop.
> 
> This restoration only took me a couple hours which is quick compared to the planes. I cleaned the metal rule up with oil and wet/dry paper. I removed the brass parts which was the biggest challenge due to the small screws and their condition. Once removed I lapped the brass plate flat and polished the rest. I spent a little time tuning it all so that it would be fine tuned for using.
> 
> The Rosewood part was sanded and finished with a couple coats of tung oil.


Tom - You can find them anywhere that sells used items like garage/estate sales, thrift stores, pawn shops, flea markets ext ext.. However the easiest way would be to fine them online. Ebay pretty much rules the market as you can find just about anything on there. Goodwill stores also has an online auction that I find has a lot of cool antique tools.

As for fair price I go with the theory that something is only worth what you are willing to pay for it. I also visualize what the tool will look like when restored and I ask myself how much would I pay for the item in restored condition. I think I paid 5 dollars for this try square. A lot of people might have thought 5 dollars was expensive for such a dirty and rusted tool but if you see the item restored before you buy and restore it then you know that 5 dollars is a steal.

Also, as far as the accuracy is concerned, in most cases you can tune the old tools so that they are just as accurate as any other. As I described in the blog I sanded and polished the brass plate on this square flat and I also sanded the metal rules edge square with the brass. So I have this square tuned to be accurate or at least as accurate as I will ever need.


----------



## Bertha

Dcase said:


> *Old woodworking square restored... A little break from the planes*
> 
> I have restored mostly just hand planes but I do sometimes find other old tools that I will restore. Somewhere along the road of searching for old planes I found this square and picked it up. Any old tool with Rosewood and brass is worth restoring IMO.
> 
> I have no idea who made this as there are no markings other then some hand cut markings on the metal rule, maybe previous owners stamp idk? That really does not matter though, what matters is that another old tool has been rescued, given new life and will now serve me in my shop.
> 
> This restoration only took me a couple hours which is quick compared to the planes. I cleaned the metal rule up with oil and wet/dry paper. I removed the brass parts which was the biggest challenge due to the small screws and their condition. Once removed I lapped the brass plate flat and polished the rest. I spent a little time tuning it all so that it would be fine tuned for using.
> 
> The Rosewood part was sanded and finished with a couple coats of tung oil.


She's a nice looking square. I've restored one just like it!


----------



## Dennisgrosen

Dcase said:


> *Old woodworking square restored... A little break from the planes*
> 
> I have restored mostly just hand planes but I do sometimes find other old tools that I will restore. Somewhere along the road of searching for old planes I found this square and picked it up. Any old tool with Rosewood and brass is worth restoring IMO.
> 
> I have no idea who made this as there are no markings other then some hand cut markings on the metal rule, maybe previous owners stamp idk? That really does not matter though, what matters is that another old tool has been rescued, given new life and will now serve me in my shop.
> 
> This restoration only took me a couple hours which is quick compared to the planes. I cleaned the metal rule up with oil and wet/dry paper. I removed the brass parts which was the biggest challenge due to the small screws and their condition. Once removed I lapped the brass plate flat and polished the rest. I spent a little time tuning it all so that it would be fine tuned for using.
> 
> The Rosewood part was sanded and finished with a couple coats of tung oil.


niiiiice restoring of the square Dan I have one that looks nearly the same old dirty and rusty
that has been put aside to when the planes is done 
so thank´s for the hint about removing the plate

take care
Dennis


----------



## woodspark

Dcase said:


> *Old woodworking square restored... A little break from the planes*
> 
> I have restored mostly just hand planes but I do sometimes find other old tools that I will restore. Somewhere along the road of searching for old planes I found this square and picked it up. Any old tool with Rosewood and brass is worth restoring IMO.
> 
> I have no idea who made this as there are no markings other then some hand cut markings on the metal rule, maybe previous owners stamp idk? That really does not matter though, what matters is that another old tool has been rescued, given new life and will now serve me in my shop.
> 
> This restoration only took me a couple hours which is quick compared to the planes. I cleaned the metal rule up with oil and wet/dry paper. I removed the brass parts which was the biggest challenge due to the small screws and their condition. Once removed I lapped the brass plate flat and polished the rest. I spent a little time tuning it all so that it would be fine tuned for using.
> 
> The Rosewood part was sanded and finished with a couple coats of tung oil.


Good work Dan! I have tuned up a number of old squares in this way and made them true again. It might be that I have a bit of a square fetish since I own way too many!

Swirt, on a large cabinemaker's square I have, the brass fence is held on by pins brazed to the back of the brass plate, thus no screws or any way of fastening is visible.


----------



## swirt

Dcase said:


> *Old woodworking square restored... A little break from the planes*
> 
> I have restored mostly just hand planes but I do sometimes find other old tools that I will restore. Somewhere along the road of searching for old planes I found this square and picked it up. Any old tool with Rosewood and brass is worth restoring IMO.
> 
> I have no idea who made this as there are no markings other then some hand cut markings on the metal rule, maybe previous owners stamp idk? That really does not matter though, what matters is that another old tool has been rescued, given new life and will now serve me in my shop.
> 
> This restoration only took me a couple hours which is quick compared to the planes. I cleaned the metal rule up with oil and wet/dry paper. I removed the brass parts which was the biggest challenge due to the small screws and their condition. Once removed I lapped the brass plate flat and polished the rest. I spent a little time tuning it all so that it would be fine tuned for using.
> 
> The Rosewood part was sanded and finished with a couple coats of tung oil.


Thanks Dan.

And thanks Div. I think the pins brazed to the back is probably the case with mine too. I appreciate the tip.


----------



## ratchet

Dcase said:


> *Old woodworking square restored... A little break from the planes*
> 
> I have restored mostly just hand planes but I do sometimes find other old tools that I will restore. Somewhere along the road of searching for old planes I found this square and picked it up. Any old tool with Rosewood and brass is worth restoring IMO.
> 
> I have no idea who made this as there are no markings other then some hand cut markings on the metal rule, maybe previous owners stamp idk? That really does not matter though, what matters is that another old tool has been rescued, given new life and will now serve me in my shop.
> 
> This restoration only took me a couple hours which is quick compared to the planes. I cleaned the metal rule up with oil and wet/dry paper. I removed the brass parts which was the biggest challenge due to the small screws and their condition. Once removed I lapped the brass plate flat and polished the rest. I spent a little time tuning it all so that it would be fine tuned for using.
> 
> The Rosewood part was sanded and finished with a couple coats of tung oil.


It looks like an older Stanley?


----------



## superdav721

Dcase said:


> *Old woodworking square restored... A little break from the planes*
> 
> I have restored mostly just hand planes but I do sometimes find other old tools that I will restore. Somewhere along the road of searching for old planes I found this square and picked it up. Any old tool with Rosewood and brass is worth restoring IMO.
> 
> I have no idea who made this as there are no markings other then some hand cut markings on the metal rule, maybe previous owners stamp idk? That really does not matter though, what matters is that another old tool has been rescued, given new life and will now serve me in my shop.
> 
> This restoration only took me a couple hours which is quick compared to the planes. I cleaned the metal rule up with oil and wet/dry paper. I removed the brass parts which was the biggest challenge due to the small screws and their condition. Once removed I lapped the brass plate flat and polished the rest. I spent a little time tuning it all so that it would be fine tuned for using.
> 
> The Rosewood part was sanded and finished with a couple coats of tung oil.


Very nice refurb Dan. The clover could have been made with a Passer drill, or at least the middle part of it.
Keep them coming Dan.
I have a few coming in from eBay and cant wait to start. And I do refer back to your blogs for information. Good stuff.


----------



## PaBull

Dcase said:


> *Old woodworking square restored... A little break from the planes*
> 
> I have restored mostly just hand planes but I do sometimes find other old tools that I will restore. Somewhere along the road of searching for old planes I found this square and picked it up. Any old tool with Rosewood and brass is worth restoring IMO.
> 
> I have no idea who made this as there are no markings other then some hand cut markings on the metal rule, maybe previous owners stamp idk? That really does not matter though, what matters is that another old tool has been rescued, given new life and will now serve me in my shop.
> 
> This restoration only took me a couple hours which is quick compared to the planes. I cleaned the metal rule up with oil and wet/dry paper. I removed the brass parts which was the biggest challenge due to the small screws and their condition. Once removed I lapped the brass plate flat and polished the rest. I spent a little time tuning it all so that it would be fine tuned for using.
> 
> The Rosewood part was sanded and finished with a couple coats of tung oil.


Nice post, this square came out looking very good.
Pb.


----------



## Dcase

*Stanley Bailey #4 1/2 cleaned, tuned and upgraded to super user plane*

Just when I thought I had all of the bench planes that I would ever need I found the 4 1/2. When I first took an interest in hand planes I was a little amazed that there were so many different sizes. I didn't understand the need for all the sizes and thats what had me most interested in getting them all. Over the past year I have been buying the different sized planes tuning each of them to go to work. After using each sized plane for a while I would start to see the differences and learn where and when to use them. I had gathered and restored planes #3 through #8 and figured I had a complete set. I had no real plans of getting the less common sizes.

Well a little while ago I was working with some short yet very wide boards. When smoothing the boards with my #4 I thought to myself that it would be great if my #4 was just a little wider and had a wider blade like my jointer planes had. Then I could smooth out these wide boards with a few less passes. If only I had such a plane… So the search for a 4 1/2 was on!

I started keeping an eye out for one on ebay. They don't come up as often as the common sized planes and when a good one is listed there is usually a handful of bidders to compete with. After a couple months I finally landed a winning bid for a nice Stanley 4 1/2. With shipping I think it came out to be a little over 70 dollars which I think is a good deal considering the great condition of the plane. There only some very minor rust on the plane, hardly any scratches or dings, the rosewood tote and knob were great and there was almost 100 percent of the original japanning still in good shape. So this plane did not require my normal restoration process. It didn't take me long to just clean and polish up the plane. I then spent a few hours tuning the frog, frog bedding and lapping the sole. Then it was on to the blade….

I lapped the back of the old blade for about 20 minuets and it still was a long way from flat. The blade was also off square pretty bad and I just didn't feel like spending another entire day lapping and grinding. I decided my best option was to just swap blades with my #7 which had a Hock blade and chip breaker in it. I figure I can just swap the good blade back to my 7 when I want to use it there.

I have only used the plane to test it out a little but I can tell I will love this one and I expect I will be using it very often.


----------



## blackcherry

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #4 1/2 cleaned, tuned and upgraded to super user plane*
> 
> Just when I thought I had all of the bench planes that I would ever need I found the 4 1/2. When I first took an interest in hand planes I was a little amazed that there were so many different sizes. I didn't understand the need for all the sizes and thats what had me most interested in getting them all. Over the past year I have been buying the different sized planes tuning each of them to go to work. After using each sized plane for a while I would start to see the differences and learn where and when to use them. I had gathered and restored planes #3 through #8 and figured I had a complete set. I had no real plans of getting the less common sizes.
> 
> Well a little while ago I was working with some short yet very wide boards. When smoothing the boards with my #4 I thought to myself that it would be great if my #4 was just a little wider and had a wider blade like my jointer planes had. Then I could smooth out these wide boards with a few less passes. If only I had such a plane… So the search for a 4 1/2 was on!
> 
> I started keeping an eye out for one on ebay. They don't come up as often as the common sized planes and when a good one is listed there is usually a handful of bidders to compete with. After a couple months I finally landed a winning bid for a nice Stanley 4 1/2. With shipping I think it came out to be a little over 70 dollars which I think is a good deal considering the great condition of the plane. There only some very minor rust on the plane, hardly any scratches or dings, the rosewood tote and knob were great and there was almost 100 percent of the original japanning still in good shape. So this plane did not require my normal restoration process. It didn't take me long to just clean and polish up the plane. I then spent a few hours tuning the frog, frog bedding and lapping the sole. Then it was on to the blade….
> 
> I lapped the back of the old blade for about 20 minuets and it still was a long way from flat. The blade was also off square pretty bad and I just didn't feel like spending another entire day lapping and grinding. I decided my best option was to just swap blades with my #7 which had a Hock blade and chip breaker in it. I figure I can just swap the good blade back to my 7 when I want to use it there.
> 
> I have only used the plane to test it out a little but I can tell I will love this one and I expect I will be using it very often.


Nice work on your new 4 1/2, I would recommend get extra blades with different angles 50 and 55 for those extra wild grain pattern. Nice to see you interest in hand tool, there so much fun to use and rewarding as well, enjoy …BC


----------



## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #4 1/2 cleaned, tuned and upgraded to super user plane*
> 
> Just when I thought I had all of the bench planes that I would ever need I found the 4 1/2. When I first took an interest in hand planes I was a little amazed that there were so many different sizes. I didn't understand the need for all the sizes and thats what had me most interested in getting them all. Over the past year I have been buying the different sized planes tuning each of them to go to work. After using each sized plane for a while I would start to see the differences and learn where and when to use them. I had gathered and restored planes #3 through #8 and figured I had a complete set. I had no real plans of getting the less common sizes.
> 
> Well a little while ago I was working with some short yet very wide boards. When smoothing the boards with my #4 I thought to myself that it would be great if my #4 was just a little wider and had a wider blade like my jointer planes had. Then I could smooth out these wide boards with a few less passes. If only I had such a plane… So the search for a 4 1/2 was on!
> 
> I started keeping an eye out for one on ebay. They don't come up as often as the common sized planes and when a good one is listed there is usually a handful of bidders to compete with. After a couple months I finally landed a winning bid for a nice Stanley 4 1/2. With shipping I think it came out to be a little over 70 dollars which I think is a good deal considering the great condition of the plane. There only some very minor rust on the plane, hardly any scratches or dings, the rosewood tote and knob were great and there was almost 100 percent of the original japanning still in good shape. So this plane did not require my normal restoration process. It didn't take me long to just clean and polish up the plane. I then spent a few hours tuning the frog, frog bedding and lapping the sole. Then it was on to the blade….
> 
> I lapped the back of the old blade for about 20 minuets and it still was a long way from flat. The blade was also off square pretty bad and I just didn't feel like spending another entire day lapping and grinding. I decided my best option was to just swap blades with my #7 which had a Hock blade and chip breaker in it. I figure I can just swap the good blade back to my 7 when I want to use it there.
> 
> I have only used the plane to test it out a little but I can tell I will love this one and I expect I will be using it very often.


BC - I have never tried a high angle like that on a blade but I also have never run into any really crazy grain yet. I will keep that in mind if I do get some grain that my other blades don't take well.

Thanks


----------



## NBeener

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #4 1/2 cleaned, tuned and upgraded to super user plane*
> 
> Just when I thought I had all of the bench planes that I would ever need I found the 4 1/2. When I first took an interest in hand planes I was a little amazed that there were so many different sizes. I didn't understand the need for all the sizes and thats what had me most interested in getting them all. Over the past year I have been buying the different sized planes tuning each of them to go to work. After using each sized plane for a while I would start to see the differences and learn where and when to use them. I had gathered and restored planes #3 through #8 and figured I had a complete set. I had no real plans of getting the less common sizes.
> 
> Well a little while ago I was working with some short yet very wide boards. When smoothing the boards with my #4 I thought to myself that it would be great if my #4 was just a little wider and had a wider blade like my jointer planes had. Then I could smooth out these wide boards with a few less passes. If only I had such a plane… So the search for a 4 1/2 was on!
> 
> I started keeping an eye out for one on ebay. They don't come up as often as the common sized planes and when a good one is listed there is usually a handful of bidders to compete with. After a couple months I finally landed a winning bid for a nice Stanley 4 1/2. With shipping I think it came out to be a little over 70 dollars which I think is a good deal considering the great condition of the plane. There only some very minor rust on the plane, hardly any scratches or dings, the rosewood tote and knob were great and there was almost 100 percent of the original japanning still in good shape. So this plane did not require my normal restoration process. It didn't take me long to just clean and polish up the plane. I then spent a few hours tuning the frog, frog bedding and lapping the sole. Then it was on to the blade….
> 
> I lapped the back of the old blade for about 20 minuets and it still was a long way from flat. The blade was also off square pretty bad and I just didn't feel like spending another entire day lapping and grinding. I decided my best option was to just swap blades with my #7 which had a Hock blade and chip breaker in it. I figure I can just swap the good blade back to my 7 when I want to use it there.
> 
> I have only used the plane to test it out a little but I can tell I will love this one and I expect I will be using it very often.


Oh, yeah. She's a sexy little number 

Nice job !


----------



## Dennisgrosen

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #4 1/2 cleaned, tuned and upgraded to super user plane*
> 
> Just when I thought I had all of the bench planes that I would ever need I found the 4 1/2. When I first took an interest in hand planes I was a little amazed that there were so many different sizes. I didn't understand the need for all the sizes and thats what had me most interested in getting them all. Over the past year I have been buying the different sized planes tuning each of them to go to work. After using each sized plane for a while I would start to see the differences and learn where and when to use them. I had gathered and restored planes #3 through #8 and figured I had a complete set. I had no real plans of getting the less common sizes.
> 
> Well a little while ago I was working with some short yet very wide boards. When smoothing the boards with my #4 I thought to myself that it would be great if my #4 was just a little wider and had a wider blade like my jointer planes had. Then I could smooth out these wide boards with a few less passes. If only I had such a plane… So the search for a 4 1/2 was on!
> 
> I started keeping an eye out for one on ebay. They don't come up as often as the common sized planes and when a good one is listed there is usually a handful of bidders to compete with. After a couple months I finally landed a winning bid for a nice Stanley 4 1/2. With shipping I think it came out to be a little over 70 dollars which I think is a good deal considering the great condition of the plane. There only some very minor rust on the plane, hardly any scratches or dings, the rosewood tote and knob were great and there was almost 100 percent of the original japanning still in good shape. So this plane did not require my normal restoration process. It didn't take me long to just clean and polish up the plane. I then spent a few hours tuning the frog, frog bedding and lapping the sole. Then it was on to the blade….
> 
> I lapped the back of the old blade for about 20 minuets and it still was a long way from flat. The blade was also off square pretty bad and I just didn't feel like spending another entire day lapping and grinding. I decided my best option was to just swap blades with my #7 which had a Hock blade and chip breaker in it. I figure I can just swap the good blade back to my 7 when I want to use it there.
> 
> I have only used the plane to test it out a little but I can tell I will love this one and I expect I will be using it very often.


another great job from your hands Dan 

Dennis


----------



## Bertha

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #4 1/2 cleaned, tuned and upgraded to super user plane*
> 
> Just when I thought I had all of the bench planes that I would ever need I found the 4 1/2. When I first took an interest in hand planes I was a little amazed that there were so many different sizes. I didn't understand the need for all the sizes and thats what had me most interested in getting them all. Over the past year I have been buying the different sized planes tuning each of them to go to work. After using each sized plane for a while I would start to see the differences and learn where and when to use them. I had gathered and restored planes #3 through #8 and figured I had a complete set. I had no real plans of getting the less common sizes.
> 
> Well a little while ago I was working with some short yet very wide boards. When smoothing the boards with my #4 I thought to myself that it would be great if my #4 was just a little wider and had a wider blade like my jointer planes had. Then I could smooth out these wide boards with a few less passes. If only I had such a plane… So the search for a 4 1/2 was on!
> 
> I started keeping an eye out for one on ebay. They don't come up as often as the common sized planes and when a good one is listed there is usually a handful of bidders to compete with. After a couple months I finally landed a winning bid for a nice Stanley 4 1/2. With shipping I think it came out to be a little over 70 dollars which I think is a good deal considering the great condition of the plane. There only some very minor rust on the plane, hardly any scratches or dings, the rosewood tote and knob were great and there was almost 100 percent of the original japanning still in good shape. So this plane did not require my normal restoration process. It didn't take me long to just clean and polish up the plane. I then spent a few hours tuning the frog, frog bedding and lapping the sole. Then it was on to the blade….
> 
> I lapped the back of the old blade for about 20 minuets and it still was a long way from flat. The blade was also off square pretty bad and I just didn't feel like spending another entire day lapping and grinding. I decided my best option was to just swap blades with my #7 which had a Hock blade and chip breaker in it. I figure I can just swap the good blade back to my 7 when I want to use it there.
> 
> I have only used the plane to test it out a little but I can tell I will love this one and I expect I will be using it very often.


OMG, this one might be my favorite of yours. Are you back to the Hocks? I'm in the market for one of these currently.


----------



## WayneC

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #4 1/2 cleaned, tuned and upgraded to super user plane*
> 
> Just when I thought I had all of the bench planes that I would ever need I found the 4 1/2. When I first took an interest in hand planes I was a little amazed that there were so many different sizes. I didn't understand the need for all the sizes and thats what had me most interested in getting them all. Over the past year I have been buying the different sized planes tuning each of them to go to work. After using each sized plane for a while I would start to see the differences and learn where and when to use them. I had gathered and restored planes #3 through #8 and figured I had a complete set. I had no real plans of getting the less common sizes.
> 
> Well a little while ago I was working with some short yet very wide boards. When smoothing the boards with my #4 I thought to myself that it would be great if my #4 was just a little wider and had a wider blade like my jointer planes had. Then I could smooth out these wide boards with a few less passes. If only I had such a plane… So the search for a 4 1/2 was on!
> 
> I started keeping an eye out for one on ebay. They don't come up as often as the common sized planes and when a good one is listed there is usually a handful of bidders to compete with. After a couple months I finally landed a winning bid for a nice Stanley 4 1/2. With shipping I think it came out to be a little over 70 dollars which I think is a good deal considering the great condition of the plane. There only some very minor rust on the plane, hardly any scratches or dings, the rosewood tote and knob were great and there was almost 100 percent of the original japanning still in good shape. So this plane did not require my normal restoration process. It didn't take me long to just clean and polish up the plane. I then spent a few hours tuning the frog, frog bedding and lapping the sole. Then it was on to the blade….
> 
> I lapped the back of the old blade for about 20 minuets and it still was a long way from flat. The blade was also off square pretty bad and I just didn't feel like spending another entire day lapping and grinding. I decided my best option was to just swap blades with my #7 which had a Hock blade and chip breaker in it. I figure I can just swap the good blade back to my 7 when I want to use it there.
> 
> I have only used the plane to test it out a little but I can tell I will love this one and I expect I will be using it very often.


It's a caddy (or corvette, pick your favorite classic car) for sure. I've been looking for that exact version (type 11) in the 4 1/2. Sounds like you got a great plane for a good price. Nice job on the restore.

I'm thinking you will want a 5 1/2 as well…


----------



## Bertha

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #4 1/2 cleaned, tuned and upgraded to super user plane*
> 
> Just when I thought I had all of the bench planes that I would ever need I found the 4 1/2. When I first took an interest in hand planes I was a little amazed that there were so many different sizes. I didn't understand the need for all the sizes and thats what had me most interested in getting them all. Over the past year I have been buying the different sized planes tuning each of them to go to work. After using each sized plane for a while I would start to see the differences and learn where and when to use them. I had gathered and restored planes #3 through #8 and figured I had a complete set. I had no real plans of getting the less common sizes.
> 
> Well a little while ago I was working with some short yet very wide boards. When smoothing the boards with my #4 I thought to myself that it would be great if my #4 was just a little wider and had a wider blade like my jointer planes had. Then I could smooth out these wide boards with a few less passes. If only I had such a plane… So the search for a 4 1/2 was on!
> 
> I started keeping an eye out for one on ebay. They don't come up as often as the common sized planes and when a good one is listed there is usually a handful of bidders to compete with. After a couple months I finally landed a winning bid for a nice Stanley 4 1/2. With shipping I think it came out to be a little over 70 dollars which I think is a good deal considering the great condition of the plane. There only some very minor rust on the plane, hardly any scratches or dings, the rosewood tote and knob were great and there was almost 100 percent of the original japanning still in good shape. So this plane did not require my normal restoration process. It didn't take me long to just clean and polish up the plane. I then spent a few hours tuning the frog, frog bedding and lapping the sole. Then it was on to the blade….
> 
> I lapped the back of the old blade for about 20 minuets and it still was a long way from flat. The blade was also off square pretty bad and I just didn't feel like spending another entire day lapping and grinding. I decided my best option was to just swap blades with my #7 which had a Hock blade and chip breaker in it. I figure I can just swap the good blade back to my 7 when I want to use it there.
> 
> I have only used the plane to test it out a little but I can tell I will love this one and I expect I will be using it very often.


Type 11 4 1/2, couldn't have said it better. I've got a Hamler scraper insert that I'm finding a home for. I should probably just plane (Freudian slip for plan) on all the 1/2's Wayne. You've probably got some Bedrock 1/2's in your arsenal!


----------



## WayneC

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #4 1/2 cleaned, tuned and upgraded to super user plane*
> 
> Just when I thought I had all of the bench planes that I would ever need I found the 4 1/2. When I first took an interest in hand planes I was a little amazed that there were so many different sizes. I didn't understand the need for all the sizes and thats what had me most interested in getting them all. Over the past year I have been buying the different sized planes tuning each of them to go to work. After using each sized plane for a while I would start to see the differences and learn where and when to use them. I had gathered and restored planes #3 through #8 and figured I had a complete set. I had no real plans of getting the less common sizes.
> 
> Well a little while ago I was working with some short yet very wide boards. When smoothing the boards with my #4 I thought to myself that it would be great if my #4 was just a little wider and had a wider blade like my jointer planes had. Then I could smooth out these wide boards with a few less passes. If only I had such a plane… So the search for a 4 1/2 was on!
> 
> I started keeping an eye out for one on ebay. They don't come up as often as the common sized planes and when a good one is listed there is usually a handful of bidders to compete with. After a couple months I finally landed a winning bid for a nice Stanley 4 1/2. With shipping I think it came out to be a little over 70 dollars which I think is a good deal considering the great condition of the plane. There only some very minor rust on the plane, hardly any scratches or dings, the rosewood tote and knob were great and there was almost 100 percent of the original japanning still in good shape. So this plane did not require my normal restoration process. It didn't take me long to just clean and polish up the plane. I then spent a few hours tuning the frog, frog bedding and lapping the sole. Then it was on to the blade….
> 
> I lapped the back of the old blade for about 20 minuets and it still was a long way from flat. The blade was also off square pretty bad and I just didn't feel like spending another entire day lapping and grinding. I decided my best option was to just swap blades with my #7 which had a Hock blade and chip breaker in it. I figure I can just swap the good blade back to my 7 when I want to use it there.
> 
> I have only used the plane to test it out a little but I can tell I will love this one and I expect I will be using it very often.


Nah. I have a WW2 vintage 4 1/2 and a type 9 or 10 5 1/2. Will eventually replace both with type 11's. Pretty sure Bedrocks or LN's are not in the works unless I get lucky.

How do you like your scraper insert?


----------



## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #4 1/2 cleaned, tuned and upgraded to super user plane*
> 
> Just when I thought I had all of the bench planes that I would ever need I found the 4 1/2. When I first took an interest in hand planes I was a little amazed that there were so many different sizes. I didn't understand the need for all the sizes and thats what had me most interested in getting them all. Over the past year I have been buying the different sized planes tuning each of them to go to work. After using each sized plane for a while I would start to see the differences and learn where and when to use them. I had gathered and restored planes #3 through #8 and figured I had a complete set. I had no real plans of getting the less common sizes.
> 
> Well a little while ago I was working with some short yet very wide boards. When smoothing the boards with my #4 I thought to myself that it would be great if my #4 was just a little wider and had a wider blade like my jointer planes had. Then I could smooth out these wide boards with a few less passes. If only I had such a plane… So the search for a 4 1/2 was on!
> 
> I started keeping an eye out for one on ebay. They don't come up as often as the common sized planes and when a good one is listed there is usually a handful of bidders to compete with. After a couple months I finally landed a winning bid for a nice Stanley 4 1/2. With shipping I think it came out to be a little over 70 dollars which I think is a good deal considering the great condition of the plane. There only some very minor rust on the plane, hardly any scratches or dings, the rosewood tote and knob were great and there was almost 100 percent of the original japanning still in good shape. So this plane did not require my normal restoration process. It didn't take me long to just clean and polish up the plane. I then spent a few hours tuning the frog, frog bedding and lapping the sole. Then it was on to the blade….
> 
> I lapped the back of the old blade for about 20 minuets and it still was a long way from flat. The blade was also off square pretty bad and I just didn't feel like spending another entire day lapping and grinding. I decided my best option was to just swap blades with my #7 which had a Hock blade and chip breaker in it. I figure I can just swap the good blade back to my 7 when I want to use it there.
> 
> I have only used the plane to test it out a little but I can tell I will love this one and I expect I will be using it very often.


Al - I only have one Hock blade. I bought a Hock blade and breaker for my #7 and that is the blade/breaker I put in this plane. For now I am just going to swap the blade back and forth. I don't see the need to buy another one right now. The Hock I have is A2 steel and I actually find it really hard to sharpen. I use Scary Sharp method and that might be why but it just takes a LOT of work to grind the bevels and hone it. I have no complaints on the quality of the blade though.

Wayne- 5 1/2…hmmmm… You may be onto something there… I think all but one of my restored Stanley's are type 11s. I didn't even intend to have them all the same type. It just so happened the ones I found were all that way.


----------



## Abiqua

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #4 1/2 cleaned, tuned and upgraded to super user plane*
> 
> Just when I thought I had all of the bench planes that I would ever need I found the 4 1/2. When I first took an interest in hand planes I was a little amazed that there were so many different sizes. I didn't understand the need for all the sizes and thats what had me most interested in getting them all. Over the past year I have been buying the different sized planes tuning each of them to go to work. After using each sized plane for a while I would start to see the differences and learn where and when to use them. I had gathered and restored planes #3 through #8 and figured I had a complete set. I had no real plans of getting the less common sizes.
> 
> Well a little while ago I was working with some short yet very wide boards. When smoothing the boards with my #4 I thought to myself that it would be great if my #4 was just a little wider and had a wider blade like my jointer planes had. Then I could smooth out these wide boards with a few less passes. If only I had such a plane… So the search for a 4 1/2 was on!
> 
> I started keeping an eye out for one on ebay. They don't come up as often as the common sized planes and when a good one is listed there is usually a handful of bidders to compete with. After a couple months I finally landed a winning bid for a nice Stanley 4 1/2. With shipping I think it came out to be a little over 70 dollars which I think is a good deal considering the great condition of the plane. There only some very minor rust on the plane, hardly any scratches or dings, the rosewood tote and knob were great and there was almost 100 percent of the original japanning still in good shape. So this plane did not require my normal restoration process. It didn't take me long to just clean and polish up the plane. I then spent a few hours tuning the frog, frog bedding and lapping the sole. Then it was on to the blade….
> 
> I lapped the back of the old blade for about 20 minuets and it still was a long way from flat. The blade was also off square pretty bad and I just didn't feel like spending another entire day lapping and grinding. I decided my best option was to just swap blades with my #7 which had a Hock blade and chip breaker in it. I figure I can just swap the good blade back to my 7 when I want to use it there.
> 
> I have only used the plane to test it out a little but I can tell I will love this one and I expect I will be using it very often.


Dan- Nice looking plane. I have two garage sale planes that I have started to rehab. Learning as I go so it is a slow process. One is a #4 but not sure what the smaller one is.

Looks like you did a great job on this one. Keep the posts coming.


----------



## caterthun

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #4 1/2 cleaned, tuned and upgraded to super user plane*
> 
> Just when I thought I had all of the bench planes that I would ever need I found the 4 1/2. When I first took an interest in hand planes I was a little amazed that there were so many different sizes. I didn't understand the need for all the sizes and thats what had me most interested in getting them all. Over the past year I have been buying the different sized planes tuning each of them to go to work. After using each sized plane for a while I would start to see the differences and learn where and when to use them. I had gathered and restored planes #3 through #8 and figured I had a complete set. I had no real plans of getting the less common sizes.
> 
> Well a little while ago I was working with some short yet very wide boards. When smoothing the boards with my #4 I thought to myself that it would be great if my #4 was just a little wider and had a wider blade like my jointer planes had. Then I could smooth out these wide boards with a few less passes. If only I had such a plane… So the search for a 4 1/2 was on!
> 
> I started keeping an eye out for one on ebay. They don't come up as often as the common sized planes and when a good one is listed there is usually a handful of bidders to compete with. After a couple months I finally landed a winning bid for a nice Stanley 4 1/2. With shipping I think it came out to be a little over 70 dollars which I think is a good deal considering the great condition of the plane. There only some very minor rust on the plane, hardly any scratches or dings, the rosewood tote and knob were great and there was almost 100 percent of the original japanning still in good shape. So this plane did not require my normal restoration process. It didn't take me long to just clean and polish up the plane. I then spent a few hours tuning the frog, frog bedding and lapping the sole. Then it was on to the blade….
> 
> I lapped the back of the old blade for about 20 minuets and it still was a long way from flat. The blade was also off square pretty bad and I just didn't feel like spending another entire day lapping and grinding. I decided my best option was to just swap blades with my #7 which had a Hock blade and chip breaker in it. I figure I can just swap the good blade back to my 7 when I want to use it there.
> 
> I have only used the plane to test it out a little but I can tell I will love this one and I expect I will be using it very often.


I have recently restored #3 through #7 Stanley Bailey planes from little more than hunks of rust. All working perfectly now. Currently looking out for a 4 1/2 and a 5 1/2. No big hurray, but do not see them very often on Ebay.
In case anybody does not already know, you can order parts for these antique planes directly from Stanley parts and services for a fraction of the asking price on Ebay. For instance the handle toe screw ( which often seems to be missing) for $1:00. These are impossible to find in modern hardware outlets. #12 20 threads per inch, definately not sandard anymore.


----------



## skruft

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #4 1/2 cleaned, tuned and upgraded to super user plane*
> 
> Just when I thought I had all of the bench planes that I would ever need I found the 4 1/2. When I first took an interest in hand planes I was a little amazed that there were so many different sizes. I didn't understand the need for all the sizes and thats what had me most interested in getting them all. Over the past year I have been buying the different sized planes tuning each of them to go to work. After using each sized plane for a while I would start to see the differences and learn where and when to use them. I had gathered and restored planes #3 through #8 and figured I had a complete set. I had no real plans of getting the less common sizes.
> 
> Well a little while ago I was working with some short yet very wide boards. When smoothing the boards with my #4 I thought to myself that it would be great if my #4 was just a little wider and had a wider blade like my jointer planes had. Then I could smooth out these wide boards with a few less passes. If only I had such a plane… So the search for a 4 1/2 was on!
> 
> I started keeping an eye out for one on ebay. They don't come up as often as the common sized planes and when a good one is listed there is usually a handful of bidders to compete with. After a couple months I finally landed a winning bid for a nice Stanley 4 1/2. With shipping I think it came out to be a little over 70 dollars which I think is a good deal considering the great condition of the plane. There only some very minor rust on the plane, hardly any scratches or dings, the rosewood tote and knob were great and there was almost 100 percent of the original japanning still in good shape. So this plane did not require my normal restoration process. It didn't take me long to just clean and polish up the plane. I then spent a few hours tuning the frog, frog bedding and lapping the sole. Then it was on to the blade….
> 
> I lapped the back of the old blade for about 20 minuets and it still was a long way from flat. The blade was also off square pretty bad and I just didn't feel like spending another entire day lapping and grinding. I decided my best option was to just swap blades with my #7 which had a Hock blade and chip breaker in it. I figure I can just swap the good blade back to my 7 when I want to use it there.
> 
> I have only used the plane to test it out a little but I can tell I will love this one and I expect I will be using it very often.


There is a 4-1/2 type 11 on eBay if anyone is interested. (I am new and hope I am not violating any rule by mentioning.)


----------



## Dcase

*Discovering the history and wonders of an old plane/tool *

When I first took interest in restoring old planes and tools I didn't pay much thought to the individual tools history. I just took a hunk of rusted metal and made it look new erasing the tools past in the process. I have no issues doing that as its my belief that you are only adding a new chapter in the tools history. On the other end I can also now understand leaving the tools history alone and getting a joy out of wondering what its story is. It wasn't until I had restored a dozen or so planes that I started to take an interest in the tools past.

As I restored more and more tools I would start running into marks and modifications on the tools that just stumped me. I would be sitting there scratching my head trying to figure out why the tool was altered. How did this altercation assist a previous owner?

One of the first things I ran into was this lever cap off of a Stanley plane.


















When I saw this lever cap I couldn't help but wonder why someone had put a grinder to the end of it. I will never know for sure but its the guessing game that makes its history interesting to me.

Another example that I want to share is this side damage to the #8 Stanley plane I have.









The grinding marks that you see in the picture are also on the other side in the exact same spots. I was completely puzzled and confused as to why someone would have put these gouges on both sides of the plane in the exact same spots. Judging by the amount of damage it couldn't have been done by mistake. After sanding the sides for a while I got a closer look and reviled some more clues..


















Do you see it yet??? No? Then lets take an even closer look!


















You should be able to see the letter "H" hidden in the scratches. You cant see in the photos but there is also a letter "B" and "D". "B.D.H" was stamped on the bottom front and back side of each of the planes sides. My guess is one of the owners had his initials stamped at the 4 bottom sides of the plane. Then I believe there is a good chance the plane was stolen from this owner. The reason I think it was stolen is because it looks to me like someone took no care at all when trying to erase the initials. Who ever put the gouges and scratches in the sides didn't seem to care at all about the damage but rather to just make sure his name was removed. I could be completely wrong but again thats the joy of these old tools. You can guess and guess and guess on what the tool has been through and it will always be interesting to me.

Although I have don't some heavy restore to most of my planes, I still respect the past of the tool and don't mind leaving some of it alone.


----------



## docholladay

Dcase said:


> *Discovering the history and wonders of an old plane/tool *
> 
> When I first took interest in restoring old planes and tools I didn't pay much thought to the individual tools history. I just took a hunk of rusted metal and made it look new erasing the tools past in the process. I have no issues doing that as its my belief that you are only adding a new chapter in the tools history. On the other end I can also now understand leaving the tools history alone and getting a joy out of wondering what its story is. It wasn't until I had restored a dozen or so planes that I started to take an interest in the tools past.
> 
> As I restored more and more tools I would start running into marks and modifications on the tools that just stumped me. I would be sitting there scratching my head trying to figure out why the tool was altered. How did this altercation assist a previous owner?
> 
> One of the first things I ran into was this lever cap off of a Stanley plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I saw this lever cap I couldn't help but wonder why someone had put a grinder to the end of it. I will never know for sure but its the guessing game that makes its history interesting to me.
> 
> Another example that I want to share is this side damage to the #8 Stanley plane I have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The grinding marks that you see in the picture are also on the other side in the exact same spots. I was completely puzzled and confused as to why someone would have put these gouges on both sides of the plane in the exact same spots. Judging by the amount of damage it couldn't have been done by mistake. After sanding the sides for a while I got a closer look and reviled some more clues..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you see it yet??? No? Then lets take an even closer look!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You should be able to see the letter "H" hidden in the scratches. You cant see in the photos but there is also a letter "B" and "D". "B.D.H" was stamped on the bottom front and back side of each of the planes sides. My guess is one of the owners had his initials stamped at the 4 bottom sides of the plane. Then I believe there is a good chance the plane was stolen from this owner. The reason I think it was stolen is because it looks to me like someone took no care at all when trying to erase the initials. Who ever put the gouges and scratches in the sides didn't seem to care at all about the damage but rather to just make sure his name was removed. I could be completely wrong but again thats the joy of these old tools. You can guess and guess and guess on what the tool has been through and it will always be interesting to me.
> 
> Although I have don't some heavy restore to most of my planes, I still respect the past of the tool and don't mind leaving some of it alone.


Very interesting. I have come across a few odd ones when restoring some tools myself. The lever cap above is rather curious. In so doing, that lever cap will never be able to adequately do it's job any more. My guess would be that someone, who did not understand the purpose of the lever cap ground it to remove a gouge or damage of some sort, but as you say, it's anybody's guess. When I use an old tool that I have brought back to life, I like to think that I am yet another along a line of craftsmen that have used the tool. Somehow that makes me feel like part of a great tradition. I have a couple of planes that belonged to my grandmothers brother who was a cabinet maker back in the post-WWII era and I like to think about the kitchens and other things that he made with those planes when I use them. I will never sell them because of that connection.

Doc


----------



## thenickedfinger

Dcase said:


> *Discovering the history and wonders of an old plane/tool *
> 
> When I first took interest in restoring old planes and tools I didn't pay much thought to the individual tools history. I just took a hunk of rusted metal and made it look new erasing the tools past in the process. I have no issues doing that as its my belief that you are only adding a new chapter in the tools history. On the other end I can also now understand leaving the tools history alone and getting a joy out of wondering what its story is. It wasn't until I had restored a dozen or so planes that I started to take an interest in the tools past.
> 
> As I restored more and more tools I would start running into marks and modifications on the tools that just stumped me. I would be sitting there scratching my head trying to figure out why the tool was altered. How did this altercation assist a previous owner?
> 
> One of the first things I ran into was this lever cap off of a Stanley plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I saw this lever cap I couldn't help but wonder why someone had put a grinder to the end of it. I will never know for sure but its the guessing game that makes its history interesting to me.
> 
> Another example that I want to share is this side damage to the #8 Stanley plane I have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The grinding marks that you see in the picture are also on the other side in the exact same spots. I was completely puzzled and confused as to why someone would have put these gouges on both sides of the plane in the exact same spots. Judging by the amount of damage it couldn't have been done by mistake. After sanding the sides for a while I got a closer look and reviled some more clues..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you see it yet??? No? Then lets take an even closer look!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You should be able to see the letter "H" hidden in the scratches. You cant see in the photos but there is also a letter "B" and "D". "B.D.H" was stamped on the bottom front and back side of each of the planes sides. My guess is one of the owners had his initials stamped at the 4 bottom sides of the plane. Then I believe there is a good chance the plane was stolen from this owner. The reason I think it was stolen is because it looks to me like someone took no care at all when trying to erase the initials. Who ever put the gouges and scratches in the sides didn't seem to care at all about the damage but rather to just make sure his name was removed. I could be completely wrong but again thats the joy of these old tools. You can guess and guess and guess on what the tool has been through and it will always be interesting to me.
> 
> Although I have don't some heavy restore to most of my planes, I still respect the past of the tool and don't mind leaving some of it alone.


B.D.H!!!!! That's MY hand plane, give it back!


----------



## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *Discovering the history and wonders of an old plane/tool *
> 
> When I first took interest in restoring old planes and tools I didn't pay much thought to the individual tools history. I just took a hunk of rusted metal and made it look new erasing the tools past in the process. I have no issues doing that as its my belief that you are only adding a new chapter in the tools history. On the other end I can also now understand leaving the tools history alone and getting a joy out of wondering what its story is. It wasn't until I had restored a dozen or so planes that I started to take an interest in the tools past.
> 
> As I restored more and more tools I would start running into marks and modifications on the tools that just stumped me. I would be sitting there scratching my head trying to figure out why the tool was altered. How did this altercation assist a previous owner?
> 
> One of the first things I ran into was this lever cap off of a Stanley plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I saw this lever cap I couldn't help but wonder why someone had put a grinder to the end of it. I will never know for sure but its the guessing game that makes its history interesting to me.
> 
> Another example that I want to share is this side damage to the #8 Stanley plane I have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The grinding marks that you see in the picture are also on the other side in the exact same spots. I was completely puzzled and confused as to why someone would have put these gouges on both sides of the plane in the exact same spots. Judging by the amount of damage it couldn't have been done by mistake. After sanding the sides for a while I got a closer look and reviled some more clues..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you see it yet??? No? Then lets take an even closer look!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You should be able to see the letter "H" hidden in the scratches. You cant see in the photos but there is also a letter "B" and "D". "B.D.H" was stamped on the bottom front and back side of each of the planes sides. My guess is one of the owners had his initials stamped at the 4 bottom sides of the plane. Then I believe there is a good chance the plane was stolen from this owner. The reason I think it was stolen is because it looks to me like someone took no care at all when trying to erase the initials. Who ever put the gouges and scratches in the sides didn't seem to care at all about the damage but rather to just make sure his name was removed. I could be completely wrong but again thats the joy of these old tools. You can guess and guess and guess on what the tool has been through and it will always be interesting to me.
> 
> Although I have don't some heavy restore to most of my planes, I still respect the past of the tool and don't mind leaving some of it alone.


Kerry - Show me some ID when you come to pick it up! That would make a great story if somehow the tool was brought back to the original owner after 50,60,70 years.


----------



## HokieMojo

Dcase said:


> *Discovering the history and wonders of an old plane/tool *
> 
> When I first took interest in restoring old planes and tools I didn't pay much thought to the individual tools history. I just took a hunk of rusted metal and made it look new erasing the tools past in the process. I have no issues doing that as its my belief that you are only adding a new chapter in the tools history. On the other end I can also now understand leaving the tools history alone and getting a joy out of wondering what its story is. It wasn't until I had restored a dozen or so planes that I started to take an interest in the tools past.
> 
> As I restored more and more tools I would start running into marks and modifications on the tools that just stumped me. I would be sitting there scratching my head trying to figure out why the tool was altered. How did this altercation assist a previous owner?
> 
> One of the first things I ran into was this lever cap off of a Stanley plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I saw this lever cap I couldn't help but wonder why someone had put a grinder to the end of it. I will never know for sure but its the guessing game that makes its history interesting to me.
> 
> Another example that I want to share is this side damage to the #8 Stanley plane I have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The grinding marks that you see in the picture are also on the other side in the exact same spots. I was completely puzzled and confused as to why someone would have put these gouges on both sides of the plane in the exact same spots. Judging by the amount of damage it couldn't have been done by mistake. After sanding the sides for a while I got a closer look and reviled some more clues..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you see it yet??? No? Then lets take an even closer look!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You should be able to see the letter "H" hidden in the scratches. You cant see in the photos but there is also a letter "B" and "D". "B.D.H" was stamped on the bottom front and back side of each of the planes sides. My guess is one of the owners had his initials stamped at the 4 bottom sides of the plane. Then I believe there is a good chance the plane was stolen from this owner. The reason I think it was stolen is because it looks to me like someone took no care at all when trying to erase the initials. Who ever put the gouges and scratches in the sides didn't seem to care at all about the damage but rather to just make sure his name was removed. I could be completely wrong but again thats the joy of these old tools. You can guess and guess and guess on what the tool has been through and it will always be interesting to me.
> 
> Although I have don't some heavy restore to most of my planes, I still respect the past of the tool and don't mind leaving some of it alone.


maybe an initial was stamped on the cap as well?


----------



## DaddyZ

Dcase said:


> *Discovering the history and wonders of an old plane/tool *
> 
> When I first took interest in restoring old planes and tools I didn't pay much thought to the individual tools history. I just took a hunk of rusted metal and made it look new erasing the tools past in the process. I have no issues doing that as its my belief that you are only adding a new chapter in the tools history. On the other end I can also now understand leaving the tools history alone and getting a joy out of wondering what its story is. It wasn't until I had restored a dozen or so planes that I started to take an interest in the tools past.
> 
> As I restored more and more tools I would start running into marks and modifications on the tools that just stumped me. I would be sitting there scratching my head trying to figure out why the tool was altered. How did this altercation assist a previous owner?
> 
> One of the first things I ran into was this lever cap off of a Stanley plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I saw this lever cap I couldn't help but wonder why someone had put a grinder to the end of it. I will never know for sure but its the guessing game that makes its history interesting to me.
> 
> Another example that I want to share is this side damage to the #8 Stanley plane I have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The grinding marks that you see in the picture are also on the other side in the exact same spots. I was completely puzzled and confused as to why someone would have put these gouges on both sides of the plane in the exact same spots. Judging by the amount of damage it couldn't have been done by mistake. After sanding the sides for a while I got a closer look and reviled some more clues..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you see it yet??? No? Then lets take an even closer look!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You should be able to see the letter "H" hidden in the scratches. You cant see in the photos but there is also a letter "B" and "D". "B.D.H" was stamped on the bottom front and back side of each of the planes sides. My guess is one of the owners had his initials stamped at the 4 bottom sides of the plane. Then I believe there is a good chance the plane was stolen from this owner. The reason I think it was stolen is because it looks to me like someone took no care at all when trying to erase the initials. Who ever put the gouges and scratches in the sides didn't seem to care at all about the damage but rather to just make sure his name was removed. I could be completely wrong but again thats the joy of these old tools. You can guess and guess and guess on what the tool has been through and it will always be interesting to me.
> 
> Although I have don't some heavy restore to most of my planes, I still respect the past of the tool and don't mind leaving some of it alone.


I Have on with 55555 Stamped on the sides & cap.


----------



## Bertha

Dcase said:


> *Discovering the history and wonders of an old plane/tool *
> 
> When I first took interest in restoring old planes and tools I didn't pay much thought to the individual tools history. I just took a hunk of rusted metal and made it look new erasing the tools past in the process. I have no issues doing that as its my belief that you are only adding a new chapter in the tools history. On the other end I can also now understand leaving the tools history alone and getting a joy out of wondering what its story is. It wasn't until I had restored a dozen or so planes that I started to take an interest in the tools past.
> 
> As I restored more and more tools I would start running into marks and modifications on the tools that just stumped me. I would be sitting there scratching my head trying to figure out why the tool was altered. How did this altercation assist a previous owner?
> 
> One of the first things I ran into was this lever cap off of a Stanley plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I saw this lever cap I couldn't help but wonder why someone had put a grinder to the end of it. I will never know for sure but its the guessing game that makes its history interesting to me.
> 
> Another example that I want to share is this side damage to the #8 Stanley plane I have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The grinding marks that you see in the picture are also on the other side in the exact same spots. I was completely puzzled and confused as to why someone would have put these gouges on both sides of the plane in the exact same spots. Judging by the amount of damage it couldn't have been done by mistake. After sanding the sides for a while I got a closer look and reviled some more clues..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you see it yet??? No? Then lets take an even closer look!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You should be able to see the letter "H" hidden in the scratches. You cant see in the photos but there is also a letter "B" and "D". "B.D.H" was stamped on the bottom front and back side of each of the planes sides. My guess is one of the owners had his initials stamped at the 4 bottom sides of the plane. Then I believe there is a good chance the plane was stolen from this owner. The reason I think it was stolen is because it looks to me like someone took no care at all when trying to erase the initials. Who ever put the gouges and scratches in the sides didn't seem to care at all about the damage but rather to just make sure his name was removed. I could be completely wrong but again thats the joy of these old tools. You can guess and guess and guess on what the tool has been through and it will always be interesting to me.
> 
> Although I have don't some heavy restore to most of my planes, I still respect the past of the tool and don't mind leaving some of it alone.


I can't quite figure how a cap ends up like that. I admire you for owning it, though.


----------



## chrisstef

Dcase said:


> *Discovering the history and wonders of an old plane/tool *
> 
> When I first took interest in restoring old planes and tools I didn't pay much thought to the individual tools history. I just took a hunk of rusted metal and made it look new erasing the tools past in the process. I have no issues doing that as its my belief that you are only adding a new chapter in the tools history. On the other end I can also now understand leaving the tools history alone and getting a joy out of wondering what its story is. It wasn't until I had restored a dozen or so planes that I started to take an interest in the tools past.
> 
> As I restored more and more tools I would start running into marks and modifications on the tools that just stumped me. I would be sitting there scratching my head trying to figure out why the tool was altered. How did this altercation assist a previous owner?
> 
> One of the first things I ran into was this lever cap off of a Stanley plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I saw this lever cap I couldn't help but wonder why someone had put a grinder to the end of it. I will never know for sure but its the guessing game that makes its history interesting to me.
> 
> Another example that I want to share is this side damage to the #8 Stanley plane I have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The grinding marks that you see in the picture are also on the other side in the exact same spots. I was completely puzzled and confused as to why someone would have put these gouges on both sides of the plane in the exact same spots. Judging by the amount of damage it couldn't have been done by mistake. After sanding the sides for a while I got a closer look and reviled some more clues..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you see it yet??? No? Then lets take an even closer look!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You should be able to see the letter "H" hidden in the scratches. You cant see in the photos but there is also a letter "B" and "D". "B.D.H" was stamped on the bottom front and back side of each of the planes sides. My guess is one of the owners had his initials stamped at the 4 bottom sides of the plane. Then I believe there is a good chance the plane was stolen from this owner. The reason I think it was stolen is because it looks to me like someone took no care at all when trying to erase the initials. Who ever put the gouges and scratches in the sides didn't seem to care at all about the damage but rather to just make sure his name was removed. I could be completely wrong but again thats the joy of these old tools. You can guess and guess and guess on what the tool has been through and it will always be interesting to me.
> 
> Although I have don't some heavy restore to most of my planes, I still respect the past of the tool and don't mind leaving some of it alone.


Nice write up Dan. Ive been following your ventures into rehabbing those old tools and i have a story kind of similar to yours while rehabbing what i thought was an old Disston saw owned by my grandfather. I have all ready cleaned up all the saws that i took from my grandfathers basement but my uncle and my cousin had a few as well. So i was having a few pops with my uncle when we went down to the basement and he handed over 3 saws that were taken from my grandfathers, his father. Home i went with the saws to clean them up and get them back to my Uncle. The last one i was working on was in awful shape, an early D7, that needed the works. I took the handle off and began sanding it down and to my surprise there were marking on the handle under all the grime. I keep working away at it, picking crap out of the stamped name. Finally the name became legible … J Sesstilli …. Johnny Sesstilli was a long time buddy of my uncles who have drifted apart over the years. I thought no way … how the hell did this end up in my grandfathers basement, the saw outdates johnny by about 40 years. I called my mother and my uncle to tell them about the finding and come to find out my grandfather used to hang out with johnnys father. Thats the story behind the D7 and its one of those things that keeps me rehabbing old tools .. there's one hell of a story behind em all.


----------



## Dcase

*Stanley Bailey #2 Restored*

I hadn't planed on buying the #2 sized plane because of the price and the fact that its small size is not much use for me. Well a few weeks back this #2 plane was up for sale on Ebay and it caught my eye. The plane was in rough shape and the price was lower then what I see a lot of Stanley #2's sell for. My love for collecting these things got the better of me and I placed my bid. I won the auction for what I feel was a decent price.

To restore or not to restore that is the question….

Collector value comes into question with this plane but the truth of the matter is I don't ever plan on selling this plane so the actual collector value really means very little to me.

This plane was defiantly a heavy user plane for someone. The plane had a decent amount of rust, there were paint drops on the handles and the iron had seen a lot of grindings. The back tote was broken at the bottom and a piece was missing and the round part of the sole behind the tote was broken off. The plane was probably dropped a few times. So all in all the plane was not all that pretty and it needed some attn before it could be placed on my shelf next to my others. I debated on how far I was going to go on the cleaning/restoration of this plane and I decided to just start working on it and see where it took me.










I took the plane apart and soaked the metal parts in EvapoRust. As they were soaking I cleaned up the handle and knob. I didn't get extreme here, I just scrapped the paint off with a razor blade and then gave them a light sanding. After that a few coats of lacquer and called em good.

After the metal parts soaked for a few hours I pulled them out and gave them a light polishing. The sole was begging me to repaint it but I decided not to. I just cleaned it as best as I could and waxed it to prevent further rust.










The sides were cleaned and lightly polished. I flattened the face of the frog and polished it a little as well. I didn't get extreme when cleaning the brass but I gave it a good cleaning/polish. I flattened the sole and I cleaned the blade with a wire wheel and then ground a new bevel on it. After flattening the back and honing a micro bevel it now cuts fine shavings.

After using this plane I realized what I had all ready expected and that is this plane is much to small for me to use. However its the perfect size for my boys to use once they are ready to start learning. I plan on hopefully teaching all 3 of my boys how to use a hand plane using this #2.


----------



## DaddyZ

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #2 Restored*
> 
> I hadn't planed on buying the #2 sized plane because of the price and the fact that its small size is not much use for me. Well a few weeks back this #2 plane was up for sale on Ebay and it caught my eye. The plane was in rough shape and the price was lower then what I see a lot of Stanley #2's sell for. My love for collecting these things got the better of me and I placed my bid. I won the auction for what I feel was a decent price.
> 
> To restore or not to restore that is the question….
> 
> Collector value comes into question with this plane but the truth of the matter is I don't ever plan on selling this plane so the actual collector value really means very little to me.
> 
> This plane was defiantly a heavy user plane for someone. The plane had a decent amount of rust, there were paint drops on the handles and the iron had seen a lot of grindings. The back tote was broken at the bottom and a piece was missing and the round part of the sole behind the tote was broken off. The plane was probably dropped a few times. So all in all the plane was not all that pretty and it needed some attn before it could be placed on my shelf next to my others. I debated on how far I was going to go on the cleaning/restoration of this plane and I decided to just start working on it and see where it took me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took the plane apart and soaked the metal parts in EvapoRust. As they were soaking I cleaned up the handle and knob. I didn't get extreme here, I just scrapped the paint off with a razor blade and then gave them a light sanding. After that a few coats of lacquer and called em good.
> 
> After the metal parts soaked for a few hours I pulled them out and gave them a light polishing. The sole was begging me to repaint it but I decided not to. I just cleaned it as best as I could and waxed it to prevent further rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides were cleaned and lightly polished. I flattened the face of the frog and polished it a little as well. I didn't get extreme when cleaning the brass but I gave it a good cleaning/polish. I flattened the sole and I cleaned the blade with a wire wheel and then ground a new bevel on it. After flattening the back and honing a micro bevel it now cuts fine shavings.
> 
> After using this plane I realized what I had all ready expected and that is this plane is much to small for me to use. However its the perfect size for my boys to use once they are ready to start learning. I plan on hopefully teaching all 3 of my boys how to use a hand plane using this #2.


Nice Job! Since you said the plane is broken. Shouldn't that lower the value enough to make the restoration Acceptable.


----------



## PurpLev

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #2 Restored*
> 
> I hadn't planed on buying the #2 sized plane because of the price and the fact that its small size is not much use for me. Well a few weeks back this #2 plane was up for sale on Ebay and it caught my eye. The plane was in rough shape and the price was lower then what I see a lot of Stanley #2's sell for. My love for collecting these things got the better of me and I placed my bid. I won the auction for what I feel was a decent price.
> 
> To restore or not to restore that is the question….
> 
> Collector value comes into question with this plane but the truth of the matter is I don't ever plan on selling this plane so the actual collector value really means very little to me.
> 
> This plane was defiantly a heavy user plane for someone. The plane had a decent amount of rust, there were paint drops on the handles and the iron had seen a lot of grindings. The back tote was broken at the bottom and a piece was missing and the round part of the sole behind the tote was broken off. The plane was probably dropped a few times. So all in all the plane was not all that pretty and it needed some attn before it could be placed on my shelf next to my others. I debated on how far I was going to go on the cleaning/restoration of this plane and I decided to just start working on it and see where it took me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took the plane apart and soaked the metal parts in EvapoRust. As they were soaking I cleaned up the handle and knob. I didn't get extreme here, I just scrapped the paint off with a razor blade and then gave them a light sanding. After that a few coats of lacquer and called em good.
> 
> After the metal parts soaked for a few hours I pulled them out and gave them a light polishing. The sole was begging me to repaint it but I decided not to. I just cleaned it as best as I could and waxed it to prevent further rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides were cleaned and lightly polished. I flattened the face of the frog and polished it a little as well. I didn't get extreme when cleaning the brass but I gave it a good cleaning/polish. I flattened the sole and I cleaned the blade with a wire wheel and then ground a new bevel on it. After flattening the back and honing a micro bevel it now cuts fine shavings.
> 
> After using this plane I realized what I had all ready expected and that is this plane is much to small for me to use. However its the perfect size for my boys to use once they are ready to start learning. I plan on hopefully teaching all 3 of my boys how to use a hand plane using this #2.


nice score. as I started reading I too starting thinking this would be a perfect plane for younger kids to start learning with as it would be easier and more comfortable for them to hold and use. good thinkin!


----------



## WayneC

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #2 Restored*
> 
> I hadn't planed on buying the #2 sized plane because of the price and the fact that its small size is not much use for me. Well a few weeks back this #2 plane was up for sale on Ebay and it caught my eye. The plane was in rough shape and the price was lower then what I see a lot of Stanley #2's sell for. My love for collecting these things got the better of me and I placed my bid. I won the auction for what I feel was a decent price.
> 
> To restore or not to restore that is the question….
> 
> Collector value comes into question with this plane but the truth of the matter is I don't ever plan on selling this plane so the actual collector value really means very little to me.
> 
> This plane was defiantly a heavy user plane for someone. The plane had a decent amount of rust, there were paint drops on the handles and the iron had seen a lot of grindings. The back tote was broken at the bottom and a piece was missing and the round part of the sole behind the tote was broken off. The plane was probably dropped a few times. So all in all the plane was not all that pretty and it needed some attn before it could be placed on my shelf next to my others. I debated on how far I was going to go on the cleaning/restoration of this plane and I decided to just start working on it and see where it took me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took the plane apart and soaked the metal parts in EvapoRust. As they were soaking I cleaned up the handle and knob. I didn't get extreme here, I just scrapped the paint off with a razor blade and then gave them a light sanding. After that a few coats of lacquer and called em good.
> 
> After the metal parts soaked for a few hours I pulled them out and gave them a light polishing. The sole was begging me to repaint it but I decided not to. I just cleaned it as best as I could and waxed it to prevent further rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides were cleaned and lightly polished. I flattened the face of the frog and polished it a little as well. I didn't get extreme when cleaning the brass but I gave it a good cleaning/polish. I flattened the sole and I cleaned the blade with a wire wheel and then ground a new bevel on it. After flattening the back and honing a micro bevel it now cuts fine shavings.
> 
> After using this plane I realized what I had all ready expected and that is this plane is much to small for me to use. However its the perfect size for my boys to use once they are ready to start learning. I plan on hopefully teaching all 3 of my boys how to use a hand plane using this #2.


Nice to see him returned to use. The boys will treasure the plane. I'm really glad you did not repaint the body. I prefer them with original japanning even if a fair amount is missing.


----------



## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #2 Restored*
> 
> I hadn't planed on buying the #2 sized plane because of the price and the fact that its small size is not much use for me. Well a few weeks back this #2 plane was up for sale on Ebay and it caught my eye. The plane was in rough shape and the price was lower then what I see a lot of Stanley #2's sell for. My love for collecting these things got the better of me and I placed my bid. I won the auction for what I feel was a decent price.
> 
> To restore or not to restore that is the question….
> 
> Collector value comes into question with this plane but the truth of the matter is I don't ever plan on selling this plane so the actual collector value really means very little to me.
> 
> This plane was defiantly a heavy user plane for someone. The plane had a decent amount of rust, there were paint drops on the handles and the iron had seen a lot of grindings. The back tote was broken at the bottom and a piece was missing and the round part of the sole behind the tote was broken off. The plane was probably dropped a few times. So all in all the plane was not all that pretty and it needed some attn before it could be placed on my shelf next to my others. I debated on how far I was going to go on the cleaning/restoration of this plane and I decided to just start working on it and see where it took me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took the plane apart and soaked the metal parts in EvapoRust. As they were soaking I cleaned up the handle and knob. I didn't get extreme here, I just scrapped the paint off with a razor blade and then gave them a light sanding. After that a few coats of lacquer and called em good.
> 
> After the metal parts soaked for a few hours I pulled them out and gave them a light polishing. The sole was begging me to repaint it but I decided not to. I just cleaned it as best as I could and waxed it to prevent further rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides were cleaned and lightly polished. I flattened the face of the frog and polished it a little as well. I didn't get extreme when cleaning the brass but I gave it a good cleaning/polish. I flattened the sole and I cleaned the blade with a wire wheel and then ground a new bevel on it. After flattening the back and honing a micro bevel it now cuts fine shavings.
> 
> After using this plane I realized what I had all ready expected and that is this plane is much to small for me to use. However its the perfect size for my boys to use once they are ready to start learning. I plan on hopefully teaching all 3 of my boys how to use a hand plane using this #2.


Daddy Z - the fact that its broken did lower the value because I paid less for this one then I have seen most other #2's sell for. I am sure my cleaning and tuning has probably increased the value but again its not really an issue because it wont be sold by me. I did skip on repainting it but who knows maybe I will do that in the future.


----------



## mochoa

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #2 Restored*
> 
> I hadn't planed on buying the #2 sized plane because of the price and the fact that its small size is not much use for me. Well a few weeks back this #2 plane was up for sale on Ebay and it caught my eye. The plane was in rough shape and the price was lower then what I see a lot of Stanley #2's sell for. My love for collecting these things got the better of me and I placed my bid. I won the auction for what I feel was a decent price.
> 
> To restore or not to restore that is the question….
> 
> Collector value comes into question with this plane but the truth of the matter is I don't ever plan on selling this plane so the actual collector value really means very little to me.
> 
> This plane was defiantly a heavy user plane for someone. The plane had a decent amount of rust, there were paint drops on the handles and the iron had seen a lot of grindings. The back tote was broken at the bottom and a piece was missing and the round part of the sole behind the tote was broken off. The plane was probably dropped a few times. So all in all the plane was not all that pretty and it needed some attn before it could be placed on my shelf next to my others. I debated on how far I was going to go on the cleaning/restoration of this plane and I decided to just start working on it and see where it took me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took the plane apart and soaked the metal parts in EvapoRust. As they were soaking I cleaned up the handle and knob. I didn't get extreme here, I just scrapped the paint off with a razor blade and then gave them a light sanding. After that a few coats of lacquer and called em good.
> 
> After the metal parts soaked for a few hours I pulled them out and gave them a light polishing. The sole was begging me to repaint it but I decided not to. I just cleaned it as best as I could and waxed it to prevent further rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides were cleaned and lightly polished. I flattened the face of the frog and polished it a little as well. I didn't get extreme when cleaning the brass but I gave it a good cleaning/polish. I flattened the sole and I cleaned the blade with a wire wheel and then ground a new bevel on it. After flattening the back and honing a micro bevel it now cuts fine shavings.
> 
> After using this plane I realized what I had all ready expected and that is this plane is much to small for me to use. However its the perfect size for my boys to use once they are ready to start learning. I plan on hopefully teaching all 3 of my boys how to use a hand plane using this #2.


Dan, what method do you use to flatten the frog?


----------



## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #2 Restored*
> 
> I hadn't planed on buying the #2 sized plane because of the price and the fact that its small size is not much use for me. Well a few weeks back this #2 plane was up for sale on Ebay and it caught my eye. The plane was in rough shape and the price was lower then what I see a lot of Stanley #2's sell for. My love for collecting these things got the better of me and I placed my bid. I won the auction for what I feel was a decent price.
> 
> To restore or not to restore that is the question….
> 
> Collector value comes into question with this plane but the truth of the matter is I don't ever plan on selling this plane so the actual collector value really means very little to me.
> 
> This plane was defiantly a heavy user plane for someone. The plane had a decent amount of rust, there were paint drops on the handles and the iron had seen a lot of grindings. The back tote was broken at the bottom and a piece was missing and the round part of the sole behind the tote was broken off. The plane was probably dropped a few times. So all in all the plane was not all that pretty and it needed some attn before it could be placed on my shelf next to my others. I debated on how far I was going to go on the cleaning/restoration of this plane and I decided to just start working on it and see where it took me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took the plane apart and soaked the metal parts in EvapoRust. As they were soaking I cleaned up the handle and knob. I didn't get extreme here, I just scrapped the paint off with a razor blade and then gave them a light sanding. After that a few coats of lacquer and called em good.
> 
> After the metal parts soaked for a few hours I pulled them out and gave them a light polishing. The sole was begging me to repaint it but I decided not to. I just cleaned it as best as I could and waxed it to prevent further rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides were cleaned and lightly polished. I flattened the face of the frog and polished it a little as well. I didn't get extreme when cleaning the brass but I gave it a good cleaning/polish. I flattened the sole and I cleaned the blade with a wire wheel and then ground a new bevel on it. After flattening the back and honing a micro bevel it now cuts fine shavings.
> 
> After using this plane I realized what I had all ready expected and that is this plane is much to small for me to use. However its the perfect size for my boys to use once they are ready to start learning. I plan on hopefully teaching all 3 of my boys how to use a hand plane using this #2.


Wayne- I have repainted enough of my planes to realize how much I hate doing it. To get a perfect paint job there is so much prep work involved and with the time it takes I am thinking my repainting days are behind me for the most part.

However if I notice the rust coming back on this plane I will probably paint it. It was not too badly rusted so I should be ok.


----------



## WayneC

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #2 Restored*
> 
> I hadn't planed on buying the #2 sized plane because of the price and the fact that its small size is not much use for me. Well a few weeks back this #2 plane was up for sale on Ebay and it caught my eye. The plane was in rough shape and the price was lower then what I see a lot of Stanley #2's sell for. My love for collecting these things got the better of me and I placed my bid. I won the auction for what I feel was a decent price.
> 
> To restore or not to restore that is the question….
> 
> Collector value comes into question with this plane but the truth of the matter is I don't ever plan on selling this plane so the actual collector value really means very little to me.
> 
> This plane was defiantly a heavy user plane for someone. The plane had a decent amount of rust, there were paint drops on the handles and the iron had seen a lot of grindings. The back tote was broken at the bottom and a piece was missing and the round part of the sole behind the tote was broken off. The plane was probably dropped a few times. So all in all the plane was not all that pretty and it needed some attn before it could be placed on my shelf next to my others. I debated on how far I was going to go on the cleaning/restoration of this plane and I decided to just start working on it and see where it took me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took the plane apart and soaked the metal parts in EvapoRust. As they were soaking I cleaned up the handle and knob. I didn't get extreme here, I just scrapped the paint off with a razor blade and then gave them a light sanding. After that a few coats of lacquer and called em good.
> 
> After the metal parts soaked for a few hours I pulled them out and gave them a light polishing. The sole was begging me to repaint it but I decided not to. I just cleaned it as best as I could and waxed it to prevent further rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides were cleaned and lightly polished. I flattened the face of the frog and polished it a little as well. I didn't get extreme when cleaning the brass but I gave it a good cleaning/polish. I flattened the sole and I cleaned the blade with a wire wheel and then ground a new bevel on it. After flattening the back and honing a micro bevel it now cuts fine shavings.
> 
> After using this plane I realized what I had all ready expected and that is this plane is much to small for me to use. However its the perfect size for my boys to use once they are ready to start learning. I plan on hopefully teaching all 3 of my boys how to use a hand plane using this #2.


For rust, I use a coat of schallac over the areas that would be japanned and then I wax it. I've not had any rust issues. Also, you can easily remove the schallac if needed.


----------



## DMIHOMECENTER

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #2 Restored*
> 
> I hadn't planed on buying the #2 sized plane because of the price and the fact that its small size is not much use for me. Well a few weeks back this #2 plane was up for sale on Ebay and it caught my eye. The plane was in rough shape and the price was lower then what I see a lot of Stanley #2's sell for. My love for collecting these things got the better of me and I placed my bid. I won the auction for what I feel was a decent price.
> 
> To restore or not to restore that is the question….
> 
> Collector value comes into question with this plane but the truth of the matter is I don't ever plan on selling this plane so the actual collector value really means very little to me.
> 
> This plane was defiantly a heavy user plane for someone. The plane had a decent amount of rust, there were paint drops on the handles and the iron had seen a lot of grindings. The back tote was broken at the bottom and a piece was missing and the round part of the sole behind the tote was broken off. The plane was probably dropped a few times. So all in all the plane was not all that pretty and it needed some attn before it could be placed on my shelf next to my others. I debated on how far I was going to go on the cleaning/restoration of this plane and I decided to just start working on it and see where it took me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took the plane apart and soaked the metal parts in EvapoRust. As they were soaking I cleaned up the handle and knob. I didn't get extreme here, I just scrapped the paint off with a razor blade and then gave them a light sanding. After that a few coats of lacquer and called em good.
> 
> After the metal parts soaked for a few hours I pulled them out and gave them a light polishing. The sole was begging me to repaint it but I decided not to. I just cleaned it as best as I could and waxed it to prevent further rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides were cleaned and lightly polished. I flattened the face of the frog and polished it a little as well. I didn't get extreme when cleaning the brass but I gave it a good cleaning/polish. I flattened the sole and I cleaned the blade with a wire wheel and then ground a new bevel on it. After flattening the back and honing a micro bevel it now cuts fine shavings.
> 
> After using this plane I realized what I had all ready expected and that is this plane is much to small for me to use. However its the perfect size for my boys to use once they are ready to start learning. I plan on hopefully teaching all 3 of my boys how to use a hand plane using this #2.


Nice looking plane and restoration, Dan.


----------



## donwilwol

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #2 Restored*
> 
> I hadn't planed on buying the #2 sized plane because of the price and the fact that its small size is not much use for me. Well a few weeks back this #2 plane was up for sale on Ebay and it caught my eye. The plane was in rough shape and the price was lower then what I see a lot of Stanley #2's sell for. My love for collecting these things got the better of me and I placed my bid. I won the auction for what I feel was a decent price.
> 
> To restore or not to restore that is the question….
> 
> Collector value comes into question with this plane but the truth of the matter is I don't ever plan on selling this plane so the actual collector value really means very little to me.
> 
> This plane was defiantly a heavy user plane for someone. The plane had a decent amount of rust, there were paint drops on the handles and the iron had seen a lot of grindings. The back tote was broken at the bottom and a piece was missing and the round part of the sole behind the tote was broken off. The plane was probably dropped a few times. So all in all the plane was not all that pretty and it needed some attn before it could be placed on my shelf next to my others. I debated on how far I was going to go on the cleaning/restoration of this plane and I decided to just start working on it and see where it took me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took the plane apart and soaked the metal parts in EvapoRust. As they were soaking I cleaned up the handle and knob. I didn't get extreme here, I just scrapped the paint off with a razor blade and then gave them a light sanding. After that a few coats of lacquer and called em good.
> 
> After the metal parts soaked for a few hours I pulled them out and gave them a light polishing. The sole was begging me to repaint it but I decided not to. I just cleaned it as best as I could and waxed it to prevent further rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides were cleaned and lightly polished. I flattened the face of the frog and polished it a little as well. I didn't get extreme when cleaning the brass but I gave it a good cleaning/polish. I flattened the sole and I cleaned the blade with a wire wheel and then ground a new bevel on it. After flattening the back and honing a micro bevel it now cuts fine shavings.
> 
> After using this plane I realized what I had all ready expected and that is this plane is much to small for me to use. However its the perfect size for my boys to use once they are ready to start learning. I plan on hopefully teaching all 3 of my boys how to use a hand plane using this #2.


Very nice Dan. I've been watching but like you, don't want to pay what I've been seeing. I'll be patient. #4 1/2 are going pretty high as well. Hope the cycle dips soon. I'm dying to try a 4 1/2. That is one fine shaving in the last 2 photos.


----------



## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #2 Restored*
> 
> I hadn't planed on buying the #2 sized plane because of the price and the fact that its small size is not much use for me. Well a few weeks back this #2 plane was up for sale on Ebay and it caught my eye. The plane was in rough shape and the price was lower then what I see a lot of Stanley #2's sell for. My love for collecting these things got the better of me and I placed my bid. I won the auction for what I feel was a decent price.
> 
> To restore or not to restore that is the question….
> 
> Collector value comes into question with this plane but the truth of the matter is I don't ever plan on selling this plane so the actual collector value really means very little to me.
> 
> This plane was defiantly a heavy user plane for someone. The plane had a decent amount of rust, there were paint drops on the handles and the iron had seen a lot of grindings. The back tote was broken at the bottom and a piece was missing and the round part of the sole behind the tote was broken off. The plane was probably dropped a few times. So all in all the plane was not all that pretty and it needed some attn before it could be placed on my shelf next to my others. I debated on how far I was going to go on the cleaning/restoration of this plane and I decided to just start working on it and see where it took me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took the plane apart and soaked the metal parts in EvapoRust. As they were soaking I cleaned up the handle and knob. I didn't get extreme here, I just scrapped the paint off with a razor blade and then gave them a light sanding. After that a few coats of lacquer and called em good.
> 
> After the metal parts soaked for a few hours I pulled them out and gave them a light polishing. The sole was begging me to repaint it but I decided not to. I just cleaned it as best as I could and waxed it to prevent further rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides were cleaned and lightly polished. I flattened the face of the frog and polished it a little as well. I didn't get extreme when cleaning the brass but I gave it a good cleaning/polish. I flattened the sole and I cleaned the blade with a wire wheel and then ground a new bevel on it. After flattening the back and honing a micro bevel it now cuts fine shavings.
> 
> After using this plane I realized what I had all ready expected and that is this plane is much to small for me to use. However its the perfect size for my boys to use once they are ready to start learning. I plan on hopefully teaching all 3 of my boys how to use a hand plane using this #2.


Mochoa - To flatten the frog I usually remove the Y york and then flatten with sandpaper on a piece of glass, tile or mdf. To get the very top around the lever adjustment I have just started using small sanding sticks made from scrap hardboard. If the frog is way off I will sometimes use a mill file.


----------



## RGtools

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #2 Restored*
> 
> I hadn't planed on buying the #2 sized plane because of the price and the fact that its small size is not much use for me. Well a few weeks back this #2 plane was up for sale on Ebay and it caught my eye. The plane was in rough shape and the price was lower then what I see a lot of Stanley #2's sell for. My love for collecting these things got the better of me and I placed my bid. I won the auction for what I feel was a decent price.
> 
> To restore or not to restore that is the question….
> 
> Collector value comes into question with this plane but the truth of the matter is I don't ever plan on selling this plane so the actual collector value really means very little to me.
> 
> This plane was defiantly a heavy user plane for someone. The plane had a decent amount of rust, there were paint drops on the handles and the iron had seen a lot of grindings. The back tote was broken at the bottom and a piece was missing and the round part of the sole behind the tote was broken off. The plane was probably dropped a few times. So all in all the plane was not all that pretty and it needed some attn before it could be placed on my shelf next to my others. I debated on how far I was going to go on the cleaning/restoration of this plane and I decided to just start working on it and see where it took me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took the plane apart and soaked the metal parts in EvapoRust. As they were soaking I cleaned up the handle and knob. I didn't get extreme here, I just scrapped the paint off with a razor blade and then gave them a light sanding. After that a few coats of lacquer and called em good.
> 
> After the metal parts soaked for a few hours I pulled them out and gave them a light polishing. The sole was begging me to repaint it but I decided not to. I just cleaned it as best as I could and waxed it to prevent further rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides were cleaned and lightly polished. I flattened the face of the frog and polished it a little as well. I didn't get extreme when cleaning the brass but I gave it a good cleaning/polish. I flattened the sole and I cleaned the blade with a wire wheel and then ground a new bevel on it. After flattening the back and honing a micro bevel it now cuts fine shavings.
> 
> After using this plane I realized what I had all ready expected and that is this plane is much to small for me to use. However its the perfect size for my boys to use once they are ready to start learning. I plan on hopefully teaching all 3 of my boys how to use a hand plane using this #2.


Beautiful job, make that thing sing the same song it sang to previous generations.


----------



## hhhopks

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #2 Restored*
> 
> I hadn't planed on buying the #2 sized plane because of the price and the fact that its small size is not much use for me. Well a few weeks back this #2 plane was up for sale on Ebay and it caught my eye. The plane was in rough shape and the price was lower then what I see a lot of Stanley #2's sell for. My love for collecting these things got the better of me and I placed my bid. I won the auction for what I feel was a decent price.
> 
> To restore or not to restore that is the question….
> 
> Collector value comes into question with this plane but the truth of the matter is I don't ever plan on selling this plane so the actual collector value really means very little to me.
> 
> This plane was defiantly a heavy user plane for someone. The plane had a decent amount of rust, there were paint drops on the handles and the iron had seen a lot of grindings. The back tote was broken at the bottom and a piece was missing and the round part of the sole behind the tote was broken off. The plane was probably dropped a few times. So all in all the plane was not all that pretty and it needed some attn before it could be placed on my shelf next to my others. I debated on how far I was going to go on the cleaning/restoration of this plane and I decided to just start working on it and see where it took me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took the plane apart and soaked the metal parts in EvapoRust. As they were soaking I cleaned up the handle and knob. I didn't get extreme here, I just scrapped the paint off with a razor blade and then gave them a light sanding. After that a few coats of lacquer and called em good.
> 
> After the metal parts soaked for a few hours I pulled them out and gave them a light polishing. The sole was begging me to repaint it but I decided not to. I just cleaned it as best as I could and waxed it to prevent further rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides were cleaned and lightly polished. I flattened the face of the frog and polished it a little as well. I didn't get extreme when cleaning the brass but I gave it a good cleaning/polish. I flattened the sole and I cleaned the blade with a wire wheel and then ground a new bevel on it. After flattening the back and honing a micro bevel it now cuts fine shavings.
> 
> After using this plane I realized what I had all ready expected and that is this plane is much to small for me to use. However its the perfect size for my boys to use once they are ready to start learning. I plan on hopefully teaching all 3 of my boys how to use a hand plane using this #2.


Nice.
I always have trouble tuning my planes to take full thin shavings.
Very impressive.


----------



## Sparks8286

Dcase said:


> *Stanley Bailey #2 Restored*
> 
> I hadn't planed on buying the #2 sized plane because of the price and the fact that its small size is not much use for me. Well a few weeks back this #2 plane was up for sale on Ebay and it caught my eye. The plane was in rough shape and the price was lower then what I see a lot of Stanley #2's sell for. My love for collecting these things got the better of me and I placed my bid. I won the auction for what I feel was a decent price.
> 
> To restore or not to restore that is the question….
> 
> Collector value comes into question with this plane but the truth of the matter is I don't ever plan on selling this plane so the actual collector value really means very little to me.
> 
> This plane was defiantly a heavy user plane for someone. The plane had a decent amount of rust, there were paint drops on the handles and the iron had seen a lot of grindings. The back tote was broken at the bottom and a piece was missing and the round part of the sole behind the tote was broken off. The plane was probably dropped a few times. So all in all the plane was not all that pretty and it needed some attn before it could be placed on my shelf next to my others. I debated on how far I was going to go on the cleaning/restoration of this plane and I decided to just start working on it and see where it took me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took the plane apart and soaked the metal parts in EvapoRust. As they were soaking I cleaned up the handle and knob. I didn't get extreme here, I just scrapped the paint off with a razor blade and then gave them a light sanding. After that a few coats of lacquer and called em good.
> 
> After the metal parts soaked for a few hours I pulled them out and gave them a light polishing. The sole was begging me to repaint it but I decided not to. I just cleaned it as best as I could and waxed it to prevent further rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sides were cleaned and lightly polished. I flattened the face of the frog and polished it a little as well. I didn't get extreme when cleaning the brass but I gave it a good cleaning/polish. I flattened the sole and I cleaned the blade with a wire wheel and then ground a new bevel on it. After flattening the back and honing a micro bevel it now cuts fine shavings.
> 
> After using this plane I realized what I had all ready expected and that is this plane is much to small for me to use. However its the perfect size for my boys to use once they are ready to start learning. I plan on hopefully teaching all 3 of my boys how to use a hand plane using this #2.


It's a beautiful plane and I'm sure your boys will enjoy working with it. I understand this thread is 3 years old now, but I do want to leave my comment.

The main body, or casting, is a second generation design. It looks like it has grooves in it which would date it between 1888-1902, however your lever cap has 'STANLEY' cast into it. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think Stanley had started casting their name in the lever cap at that point. Again, it's not a big deal, but if you ever do get concerned about the value it's something to look into. It's easily taken care of, obviously ( along with the pitted chip breaker). There aren't many #2's to be found for sale lately.


----------



## Dcase

*A welded Stanley #4 restored to a great user*

Whether you are a collector or a user of planes I think its safe to say that no one is interested in a common bench plane that has been welded back together. I was never interested in a welded plane either until I got this Stanley #4 type 9 that had been welded back together on both sides.

A couple weeks ago I picked up this #4 Stanley plane and my original plan was to use it as a parts plane. After looking it over I changed my mind and decided to fix it up as a user even though it had been welded. 









Someone liked this plane enough to spend the time to weld it so they didn't want to just throw this plane away. It might sound strange but I am sure who ever welded this plane would be happy to know his broken welded plane has been fixed up and will continue to live on.

When cleaning it up I discovered the plane had been welded with brass. I actually think it looks pretty neat with the brass weld. I sanded and polished the sides and refinished the knob and tote. The rest of the plane was just cleaned. I lapped the sole, sharpened the blade and the welded plane is taking fine shavings just like my planes that are not welded. I really like this one. It has a story and I am happy that I didn't split it up for parts. Its earned a special spot in my shop…


----------



## donwilwol

Dcase said:


> *A welded Stanley #4 restored to a great user*
> 
> Whether you are a collector or a user of planes I think its safe to say that no one is interested in a common bench plane that has been welded back together. I was never interested in a welded plane either until I got this Stanley #4 type 9 that had been welded back together on both sides.
> 
> A couple weeks ago I picked up this #4 Stanley plane and my original plan was to use it as a parts plane. After looking it over I changed my mind and decided to fix it up as a user even though it had been welded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone liked this plane enough to spend the time to weld it so they didn't want to just throw this plane away. It might sound strange but I am sure who ever welded this plane would be happy to know his broken welded plane has been fixed up and will continue to live on.
> 
> When cleaning it up I discovered the plane had been welded with brass. I actually think it looks pretty neat with the brass weld. I sanded and polished the sides and refinished the knob and tote. The rest of the plane was just cleaned. I lapped the sole, sharpened the blade and the welded plane is taking fine shavings just like my planes that are not welded. I really like this one. It has a story and I am happy that I didn't split it up for parts. Its earned a special spot in my shop…


Nice job Dan. I agree, a properly fixed plane gives it character. I always think there is a story behind that break/fix. The funny thing is, these types of planes don't go as cheap as you'd expect some times.


----------



## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *A welded Stanley #4 restored to a great user*
> 
> Whether you are a collector or a user of planes I think its safe to say that no one is interested in a common bench plane that has been welded back together. I was never interested in a welded plane either until I got this Stanley #4 type 9 that had been welded back together on both sides.
> 
> A couple weeks ago I picked up this #4 Stanley plane and my original plan was to use it as a parts plane. After looking it over I changed my mind and decided to fix it up as a user even though it had been welded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone liked this plane enough to spend the time to weld it so they didn't want to just throw this plane away. It might sound strange but I am sure who ever welded this plane would be happy to know his broken welded plane has been fixed up and will continue to live on.
> 
> When cleaning it up I discovered the plane had been welded with brass. I actually think it looks pretty neat with the brass weld. I sanded and polished the sides and refinished the knob and tote. The rest of the plane was just cleaned. I lapped the sole, sharpened the blade and the welded plane is taking fine shavings just like my planes that are not welded. I really like this one. It has a story and I am happy that I didn't split it up for parts. Its earned a special spot in my shop…


Don, I know the #10 Stanley plane is notorious for breaking. I often see those on ebay that have been welded and they do still sell for a lot. A lot has to do with how well of a job was done with the welding. Who ever welded this one did a good job and got it all lined up good. When I lapped the sole there was a section near the weld that was off by a bit but I was able to even it out by lapping.


----------



## ShopTinker

Dcase said:


> *A welded Stanley #4 restored to a great user*
> 
> Whether you are a collector or a user of planes I think its safe to say that no one is interested in a common bench plane that has been welded back together. I was never interested in a welded plane either until I got this Stanley #4 type 9 that had been welded back together on both sides.
> 
> A couple weeks ago I picked up this #4 Stanley plane and my original plan was to use it as a parts plane. After looking it over I changed my mind and decided to fix it up as a user even though it had been welded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone liked this plane enough to spend the time to weld it so they didn't want to just throw this plane away. It might sound strange but I am sure who ever welded this plane would be happy to know his broken welded plane has been fixed up and will continue to live on.
> 
> When cleaning it up I discovered the plane had been welded with brass. I actually think it looks pretty neat with the brass weld. I sanded and polished the sides and refinished the knob and tote. The rest of the plane was just cleaned. I lapped the sole, sharpened the blade and the welded plane is taking fine shavings just like my planes that are not welded. I really like this one. It has a story and I am happy that I didn't split it up for parts. Its earned a special spot in my shop…


That plane turned out nice. I always wonder what story's my used tools would have to tell. Were they a prized possession, a long awaited purchase, a gift, or simply an extra tool that never did anything but collect dust.

You can tell someone thought this plane was worth the effort or expense of having it repaired.


----------



## ajosephg

Dcase said:


> *A welded Stanley #4 restored to a great user*
> 
> Whether you are a collector or a user of planes I think its safe to say that no one is interested in a common bench plane that has been welded back together. I was never interested in a welded plane either until I got this Stanley #4 type 9 that had been welded back together on both sides.
> 
> A couple weeks ago I picked up this #4 Stanley plane and my original plan was to use it as a parts plane. After looking it over I changed my mind and decided to fix it up as a user even though it had been welded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone liked this plane enough to spend the time to weld it so they didn't want to just throw this plane away. It might sound strange but I am sure who ever welded this plane would be happy to know his broken welded plane has been fixed up and will continue to live on.
> 
> When cleaning it up I discovered the plane had been welded with brass. I actually think it looks pretty neat with the brass weld. I sanded and polished the sides and refinished the knob and tote. The rest of the plane was just cleaned. I lapped the sole, sharpened the blade and the welded plane is taking fine shavings just like my planes that are not welded. I really like this one. It has a story and I am happy that I didn't split it up for parts. Its earned a special spot in my shop…


I am curious as to why so many planes have broken in this area. It doesn't seem that there would be a lot of stress there, but maybe I'm missing something. Any explanations/theories?


----------



## MedicKen

Dcase said:


> *A welded Stanley #4 restored to a great user*
> 
> Whether you are a collector or a user of planes I think its safe to say that no one is interested in a common bench plane that has been welded back together. I was never interested in a welded plane either until I got this Stanley #4 type 9 that had been welded back together on both sides.
> 
> A couple weeks ago I picked up this #4 Stanley plane and my original plan was to use it as a parts plane. After looking it over I changed my mind and decided to fix it up as a user even though it had been welded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone liked this plane enough to spend the time to weld it so they didn't want to just throw this plane away. It might sound strange but I am sure who ever welded this plane would be happy to know his broken welded plane has been fixed up and will continue to live on.
> 
> When cleaning it up I discovered the plane had been welded with brass. I actually think it looks pretty neat with the brass weld. I sanded and polished the sides and refinished the knob and tote. The rest of the plane was just cleaned. I lapped the sole, sharpened the blade and the welded plane is taking fine shavings just like my planes that are not welded. I really like this one. It has a story and I am happy that I didn't split it up for parts. Its earned a special spot in my shop…


Brass? No it has been brazed. Brazing is one of the few ways cast iron can be welded. It did end being a nice user. Good job


----------



## steviep

Dcase said:


> *A welded Stanley #4 restored to a great user*
> 
> Whether you are a collector or a user of planes I think its safe to say that no one is interested in a common bench plane that has been welded back together. I was never interested in a welded plane either until I got this Stanley #4 type 9 that had been welded back together on both sides.
> 
> A couple weeks ago I picked up this #4 Stanley plane and my original plan was to use it as a parts plane. After looking it over I changed my mind and decided to fix it up as a user even though it had been welded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone liked this plane enough to spend the time to weld it so they didn't want to just throw this plane away. It might sound strange but I am sure who ever welded this plane would be happy to know his broken welded plane has been fixed up and will continue to live on.
> 
> When cleaning it up I discovered the plane had been welded with brass. I actually think it looks pretty neat with the brass weld. I sanded and polished the sides and refinished the knob and tote. The rest of the plane was just cleaned. I lapped the sole, sharpened the blade and the welded plane is taking fine shavings just like my planes that are not welded. I really like this one. It has a story and I am happy that I didn't split it up for parts. Its earned a special spot in my shop…


Funny, i got a 4 1/2C from ebay and I should have known (it was to cheap) that something wasn't right. Like yours it was welded on one side and just behind the mouth. I thought the same thing and then I used it. [email protected]! It is my goto smoother now.


----------



## Bertha

Dcase said:


> *A welded Stanley #4 restored to a great user*
> 
> Whether you are a collector or a user of planes I think its safe to say that no one is interested in a common bench plane that has been welded back together. I was never interested in a welded plane either until I got this Stanley #4 type 9 that had been welded back together on both sides.
> 
> A couple weeks ago I picked up this #4 Stanley plane and my original plan was to use it as a parts plane. After looking it over I changed my mind and decided to fix it up as a user even though it had been welded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone liked this plane enough to spend the time to weld it so they didn't want to just throw this plane away. It might sound strange but I am sure who ever welded this plane would be happy to know his broken welded plane has been fixed up and will continue to live on.
> 
> When cleaning it up I discovered the plane had been welded with brass. I actually think it looks pretty neat with the brass weld. I sanded and polished the sides and refinished the knob and tote. The rest of the plane was just cleaned. I lapped the sole, sharpened the blade and the welded plane is taking fine shavings just like my planes that are not welded. I really like this one. It has a story and I am happy that I didn't split it up for parts. Its earned a special spot in my shop…


I'm guilty of passing on the braised planes. Your comments make me want to reconsider. It's a nice looking plane and I'm positive its earlier owner would be proud.


----------



## Dwain

Dcase said:


> *A welded Stanley #4 restored to a great user*
> 
> Whether you are a collector or a user of planes I think its safe to say that no one is interested in a common bench plane that has been welded back together. I was never interested in a welded plane either until I got this Stanley #4 type 9 that had been welded back together on both sides.
> 
> A couple weeks ago I picked up this #4 Stanley plane and my original plan was to use it as a parts plane. After looking it over I changed my mind and decided to fix it up as a user even though it had been welded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone liked this plane enough to spend the time to weld it so they didn't want to just throw this plane away. It might sound strange but I am sure who ever welded this plane would be happy to know his broken welded plane has been fixed up and will continue to live on.
> 
> When cleaning it up I discovered the plane had been welded with brass. I actually think it looks pretty neat with the brass weld. I sanded and polished the sides and refinished the knob and tote. The rest of the plane was just cleaned. I lapped the sole, sharpened the blade and the welded plane is taking fine shavings just like my planes that are not welded. I really like this one. It has a story and I am happy that I didn't split it up for parts. Its earned a special spot in my shop…


As to Joe's question on why planes always crack there, I believe that the location of the mouth is the cause. Cracks often start near the mouth, and if one is present, one accidental meeting with a concrete floor is all that is necessary to break it in two. Just my two cents.


----------



## hhhopks

Dcase said:


> *A welded Stanley #4 restored to a great user*
> 
> Whether you are a collector or a user of planes I think its safe to say that no one is interested in a common bench plane that has been welded back together. I was never interested in a welded plane either until I got this Stanley #4 type 9 that had been welded back together on both sides.
> 
> A couple weeks ago I picked up this #4 Stanley plane and my original plan was to use it as a parts plane. After looking it over I changed my mind and decided to fix it up as a user even though it had been welded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone liked this plane enough to spend the time to weld it so they didn't want to just throw this plane away. It might sound strange but I am sure who ever welded this plane would be happy to know his broken welded plane has been fixed up and will continue to live on.
> 
> When cleaning it up I discovered the plane had been welded with brass. I actually think it looks pretty neat with the brass weld. I sanded and polished the sides and refinished the knob and tote. The rest of the plane was just cleaned. I lapped the sole, sharpened the blade and the welded plane is taking fine shavings just like my planes that are not welded. I really like this one. It has a story and I am happy that I didn't split it up for parts. Its earned a special spot in my shop…


A well repaired plane should be good as the ones that hasn't gone through the accidents.
In some ways, all these old tools had gone through tough times.

Indeed, this plane has character.


----------



## Dcase

*Keen Kutter KK5 Restored.. New Redwood Tote & Look at blade thickness*

This was a fun plane to restore and tune for several reasons. First of all when I got this plane I took it apart to clean and right away I could see that the iron and chip breaker were both much thicker and heavier then the traditional bench plane iron/breaker. It was as if someone had replaced the original iron and breaker with a new Hock Iron and breaker. This is the first and only antique plane that I have purchased that had a blade and breaker of this sort. Another fun but difficult task of this restoration was to build a new tote. The original tote was with the blade but it was broken in several spots and even though I tried I was not able to fix it. So I decided to make a new tote.

The knob and original tote were both made with Rosewood but to make the new tote I used a scrap piece of Redwood. My choice to use the Redwood was because I had a scrap of it on hand that was the right size and thickness. Its also soft so MUCH easier to shape by hand. I had many failed attempts at making totes in the past so I was not looking forward to doing this but it ended up turning out. I just traced a tote from one of my stanley planes and then lined the holes up as best as I could with the broken tote. I cut it out and shaped it all by hand.

Back to the blade… I did some checking online and found a few other cases of discussion in regards to the thicker Keen Kutter blades but I found no official information from the company's stand point as to why they decided to make their blades and chip breakers so much thicker when all the other companies had the standard blades and breakers. Today companies like Hock and Pinnacle make and produce thick after market blades and breakers at a premium price. I find it very interesting that Keen Kutter was doing this long before these companies and I wonder why the thicker blades didn't take off back then.

Here are some photos of the Keen Kutter iron compared with some of my other blades…




































I cant say the thicker blade and breaker is any better. I only find it interesting that the concept of a thicker iron was around long before Hock and Pinnacle and other companies produced them.

I don't have any before pictures of the plane but here are the after pics. Its a fine working plane.


----------



## SamuelP

Dcase said:


> *Keen Kutter KK5 Restored.. New Redwood Tote & Look at blade thickness*
> 
> This was a fun plane to restore and tune for several reasons. First of all when I got this plane I took it apart to clean and right away I could see that the iron and chip breaker were both much thicker and heavier then the traditional bench plane iron/breaker. It was as if someone had replaced the original iron and breaker with a new Hock Iron and breaker. This is the first and only antique plane that I have purchased that had a blade and breaker of this sort. Another fun but difficult task of this restoration was to build a new tote. The original tote was with the blade but it was broken in several spots and even though I tried I was not able to fix it. So I decided to make a new tote.
> 
> The knob and original tote were both made with Rosewood but to make the new tote I used a scrap piece of Redwood. My choice to use the Redwood was because I had a scrap of it on hand that was the right size and thickness. Its also soft so MUCH easier to shape by hand. I had many failed attempts at making totes in the past so I was not looking forward to doing this but it ended up turning out. I just traced a tote from one of my stanley planes and then lined the holes up as best as I could with the broken tote. I cut it out and shaped it all by hand.
> 
> Back to the blade… I did some checking online and found a few other cases of discussion in regards to the thicker Keen Kutter blades but I found no official information from the company's stand point as to why they decided to make their blades and chip breakers so much thicker when all the other companies had the standard blades and breakers. Today companies like Hock and Pinnacle make and produce thick after market blades and breakers at a premium price. I find it very interesting that Keen Kutter was doing this long before these companies and I wonder why the thicker blades didn't take off back then.
> 
> Here are some photos of the Keen Kutter iron compared with some of my other blades…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cant say the thicker blade and breaker is any better. I only find it interesting that the concept of a thicker iron was around long before Hock and Pinnacle and other companies produced them.
> 
> I don't have any before pictures of the plane but here are the after pics. Its a fine working plane.


I am looking for one of these. Nice job.


----------



## donwilwol

Dcase said:


> *Keen Kutter KK5 Restored.. New Redwood Tote & Look at blade thickness*
> 
> This was a fun plane to restore and tune for several reasons. First of all when I got this plane I took it apart to clean and right away I could see that the iron and chip breaker were both much thicker and heavier then the traditional bench plane iron/breaker. It was as if someone had replaced the original iron and breaker with a new Hock Iron and breaker. This is the first and only antique plane that I have purchased that had a blade and breaker of this sort. Another fun but difficult task of this restoration was to build a new tote. The original tote was with the blade but it was broken in several spots and even though I tried I was not able to fix it. So I decided to make a new tote.
> 
> The knob and original tote were both made with Rosewood but to make the new tote I used a scrap piece of Redwood. My choice to use the Redwood was because I had a scrap of it on hand that was the right size and thickness. Its also soft so MUCH easier to shape by hand. I had many failed attempts at making totes in the past so I was not looking forward to doing this but it ended up turning out. I just traced a tote from one of my stanley planes and then lined the holes up as best as I could with the broken tote. I cut it out and shaped it all by hand.
> 
> Back to the blade… I did some checking online and found a few other cases of discussion in regards to the thicker Keen Kutter blades but I found no official information from the company's stand point as to why they decided to make their blades and chip breakers so much thicker when all the other companies had the standard blades and breakers. Today companies like Hock and Pinnacle make and produce thick after market blades and breakers at a premium price. I find it very interesting that Keen Kutter was doing this long before these companies and I wonder why the thicker blades didn't take off back then.
> 
> Here are some photos of the Keen Kutter iron compared with some of my other blades…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cant say the thicker blade and breaker is any better. I only find it interesting that the concept of a thicker iron was around long before Hock and Pinnacle and other companies produced them.
> 
> I don't have any before pictures of the plane but here are the after pics. Its a fine working plane.


prices of keen cutters seem to be on the rise. Nice job on this one. I restored a solar a very similar blade.


----------



## saddletramp

Dcase said:


> *Keen Kutter KK5 Restored.. New Redwood Tote & Look at blade thickness*
> 
> This was a fun plane to restore and tune for several reasons. First of all when I got this plane I took it apart to clean and right away I could see that the iron and chip breaker were both much thicker and heavier then the traditional bench plane iron/breaker. It was as if someone had replaced the original iron and breaker with a new Hock Iron and breaker. This is the first and only antique plane that I have purchased that had a blade and breaker of this sort. Another fun but difficult task of this restoration was to build a new tote. The original tote was with the blade but it was broken in several spots and even though I tried I was not able to fix it. So I decided to make a new tote.
> 
> The knob and original tote were both made with Rosewood but to make the new tote I used a scrap piece of Redwood. My choice to use the Redwood was because I had a scrap of it on hand that was the right size and thickness. Its also soft so MUCH easier to shape by hand. I had many failed attempts at making totes in the past so I was not looking forward to doing this but it ended up turning out. I just traced a tote from one of my stanley planes and then lined the holes up as best as I could with the broken tote. I cut it out and shaped it all by hand.
> 
> Back to the blade… I did some checking online and found a few other cases of discussion in regards to the thicker Keen Kutter blades but I found no official information from the company's stand point as to why they decided to make their blades and chip breakers so much thicker when all the other companies had the standard blades and breakers. Today companies like Hock and Pinnacle make and produce thick after market blades and breakers at a premium price. I find it very interesting that Keen Kutter was doing this long before these companies and I wonder why the thicker blades didn't take off back then.
> 
> Here are some photos of the Keen Kutter iron compared with some of my other blades…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cant say the thicker blade and breaker is any better. I only find it interesting that the concept of a thicker iron was around long before Hock and Pinnacle and other companies produced them.
> 
> I don't have any before pictures of the plane but here are the after pics. Its a fine working plane.


Great find and a great job on the restoration. That new tote looks amazing.

If I remember correctly (that's a mighty big IF), Keen Kutter didn't actually make the items that sold under their brand name. If that is true, I wonder who actually made the plane?


----------



## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *Keen Kutter KK5 Restored.. New Redwood Tote & Look at blade thickness*
> 
> This was a fun plane to restore and tune for several reasons. First of all when I got this plane I took it apart to clean and right away I could see that the iron and chip breaker were both much thicker and heavier then the traditional bench plane iron/breaker. It was as if someone had replaced the original iron and breaker with a new Hock Iron and breaker. This is the first and only antique plane that I have purchased that had a blade and breaker of this sort. Another fun but difficult task of this restoration was to build a new tote. The original tote was with the blade but it was broken in several spots and even though I tried I was not able to fix it. So I decided to make a new tote.
> 
> The knob and original tote were both made with Rosewood but to make the new tote I used a scrap piece of Redwood. My choice to use the Redwood was because I had a scrap of it on hand that was the right size and thickness. Its also soft so MUCH easier to shape by hand. I had many failed attempts at making totes in the past so I was not looking forward to doing this but it ended up turning out. I just traced a tote from one of my stanley planes and then lined the holes up as best as I could with the broken tote. I cut it out and shaped it all by hand.
> 
> Back to the blade… I did some checking online and found a few other cases of discussion in regards to the thicker Keen Kutter blades but I found no official information from the company's stand point as to why they decided to make their blades and chip breakers so much thicker when all the other companies had the standard blades and breakers. Today companies like Hock and Pinnacle make and produce thick after market blades and breakers at a premium price. I find it very interesting that Keen Kutter was doing this long before these companies and I wonder why the thicker blades didn't take off back then.
> 
> Here are some photos of the Keen Kutter iron compared with some of my other blades…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cant say the thicker blade and breaker is any better. I only find it interesting that the concept of a thicker iron was around long before Hock and Pinnacle and other companies produced them.
> 
> I don't have any before pictures of the plane but here are the after pics. Its a fine working plane.


There are a couple types of Keen Kutter planes that I know of. There is the K series planes and the KK series. The K series planes are designed like the Bedrock planes where you can make adjustments to the frog without removing the blade. The KK series are based more on the Bailey design. I know the K series sell for a bit more due to them having that frog adjustment.


----------



## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *Keen Kutter KK5 Restored.. New Redwood Tote & Look at blade thickness*
> 
> This was a fun plane to restore and tune for several reasons. First of all when I got this plane I took it apart to clean and right away I could see that the iron and chip breaker were both much thicker and heavier then the traditional bench plane iron/breaker. It was as if someone had replaced the original iron and breaker with a new Hock Iron and breaker. This is the first and only antique plane that I have purchased that had a blade and breaker of this sort. Another fun but difficult task of this restoration was to build a new tote. The original tote was with the blade but it was broken in several spots and even though I tried I was not able to fix it. So I decided to make a new tote.
> 
> The knob and original tote were both made with Rosewood but to make the new tote I used a scrap piece of Redwood. My choice to use the Redwood was because I had a scrap of it on hand that was the right size and thickness. Its also soft so MUCH easier to shape by hand. I had many failed attempts at making totes in the past so I was not looking forward to doing this but it ended up turning out. I just traced a tote from one of my stanley planes and then lined the holes up as best as I could with the broken tote. I cut it out and shaped it all by hand.
> 
> Back to the blade… I did some checking online and found a few other cases of discussion in regards to the thicker Keen Kutter blades but I found no official information from the company's stand point as to why they decided to make their blades and chip breakers so much thicker when all the other companies had the standard blades and breakers. Today companies like Hock and Pinnacle make and produce thick after market blades and breakers at a premium price. I find it very interesting that Keen Kutter was doing this long before these companies and I wonder why the thicker blades didn't take off back then.
> 
> Here are some photos of the Keen Kutter iron compared with some of my other blades…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cant say the thicker blade and breaker is any better. I only find it interesting that the concept of a thicker iron was around long before Hock and Pinnacle and other companies produced them.
> 
> I don't have any before pictures of the plane but here are the after pics. Its a fine working plane.


Bob, I believe you are correct. From what I have read the Keen Kutter K series planes were made by Stanley with the Bedrock frog design and the later KK series were made by Sargent. There may have been another company in there at some point. I have also seen some Keen Kutter planes with the thinner standard sized blades so I have no idea what the story is with that.


----------



## ShopTinker

Dcase said:


> *Keen Kutter KK5 Restored.. New Redwood Tote & Look at blade thickness*
> 
> This was a fun plane to restore and tune for several reasons. First of all when I got this plane I took it apart to clean and right away I could see that the iron and chip breaker were both much thicker and heavier then the traditional bench plane iron/breaker. It was as if someone had replaced the original iron and breaker with a new Hock Iron and breaker. This is the first and only antique plane that I have purchased that had a blade and breaker of this sort. Another fun but difficult task of this restoration was to build a new tote. The original tote was with the blade but it was broken in several spots and even though I tried I was not able to fix it. So I decided to make a new tote.
> 
> The knob and original tote were both made with Rosewood but to make the new tote I used a scrap piece of Redwood. My choice to use the Redwood was because I had a scrap of it on hand that was the right size and thickness. Its also soft so MUCH easier to shape by hand. I had many failed attempts at making totes in the past so I was not looking forward to doing this but it ended up turning out. I just traced a tote from one of my stanley planes and then lined the holes up as best as I could with the broken tote. I cut it out and shaped it all by hand.
> 
> Back to the blade… I did some checking online and found a few other cases of discussion in regards to the thicker Keen Kutter blades but I found no official information from the company's stand point as to why they decided to make their blades and chip breakers so much thicker when all the other companies had the standard blades and breakers. Today companies like Hock and Pinnacle make and produce thick after market blades and breakers at a premium price. I find it very interesting that Keen Kutter was doing this long before these companies and I wonder why the thicker blades didn't take off back then.
> 
> Here are some photos of the Keen Kutter iron compared with some of my other blades…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cant say the thicker blade and breaker is any better. I only find it interesting that the concept of a thicker iron was around long before Hock and Pinnacle and other companies produced them.
> 
> I don't have any before pictures of the plane but here are the after pics. Its a fine working plane.


That looks great. Do you know why the totes were designed curving back over the hand? Maybe I don't hold them correctly, but my #4 1/2 and #7 fit my hand the other planes #3,#4, #5 & #6 just feel to small. I've got one old plane that came with a broken tote. The top curved part was broken off. It actual seems like a better fit. I think my palm is about average, it's 4" across. I thought about cutting the totes on a couple of my others, but I kind of hate to modify them.


----------



## bigike

Dcase said:


> *Keen Kutter KK5 Restored.. New Redwood Tote & Look at blade thickness*
> 
> This was a fun plane to restore and tune for several reasons. First of all when I got this plane I took it apart to clean and right away I could see that the iron and chip breaker were both much thicker and heavier then the traditional bench plane iron/breaker. It was as if someone had replaced the original iron and breaker with a new Hock Iron and breaker. This is the first and only antique plane that I have purchased that had a blade and breaker of this sort. Another fun but difficult task of this restoration was to build a new tote. The original tote was with the blade but it was broken in several spots and even though I tried I was not able to fix it. So I decided to make a new tote.
> 
> The knob and original tote were both made with Rosewood but to make the new tote I used a scrap piece of Redwood. My choice to use the Redwood was because I had a scrap of it on hand that was the right size and thickness. Its also soft so MUCH easier to shape by hand. I had many failed attempts at making totes in the past so I was not looking forward to doing this but it ended up turning out. I just traced a tote from one of my stanley planes and then lined the holes up as best as I could with the broken tote. I cut it out and shaped it all by hand.
> 
> Back to the blade… I did some checking online and found a few other cases of discussion in regards to the thicker Keen Kutter blades but I found no official information from the company's stand point as to why they decided to make their blades and chip breakers so much thicker when all the other companies had the standard blades and breakers. Today companies like Hock and Pinnacle make and produce thick after market blades and breakers at a premium price. I find it very interesting that Keen Kutter was doing this long before these companies and I wonder why the thicker blades didn't take off back then.
> 
> Here are some photos of the Keen Kutter iron compared with some of my other blades…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cant say the thicker blade and breaker is any better. I only find it interesting that the concept of a thicker iron was around long before Hock and Pinnacle and other companies produced them.
> 
> I don't have any before pictures of the plane but here are the after pics. Its a fine working plane.


saweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet


----------



## SamuelP

Dcase said:


> *Keen Kutter KK5 Restored.. New Redwood Tote & Look at blade thickness*
> 
> This was a fun plane to restore and tune for several reasons. First of all when I got this plane I took it apart to clean and right away I could see that the iron and chip breaker were both much thicker and heavier then the traditional bench plane iron/breaker. It was as if someone had replaced the original iron and breaker with a new Hock Iron and breaker. This is the first and only antique plane that I have purchased that had a blade and breaker of this sort. Another fun but difficult task of this restoration was to build a new tote. The original tote was with the blade but it was broken in several spots and even though I tried I was not able to fix it. So I decided to make a new tote.
> 
> The knob and original tote were both made with Rosewood but to make the new tote I used a scrap piece of Redwood. My choice to use the Redwood was because I had a scrap of it on hand that was the right size and thickness. Its also soft so MUCH easier to shape by hand. I had many failed attempts at making totes in the past so I was not looking forward to doing this but it ended up turning out. I just traced a tote from one of my stanley planes and then lined the holes up as best as I could with the broken tote. I cut it out and shaped it all by hand.
> 
> Back to the blade… I did some checking online and found a few other cases of discussion in regards to the thicker Keen Kutter blades but I found no official information from the company's stand point as to why they decided to make their blades and chip breakers so much thicker when all the other companies had the standard blades and breakers. Today companies like Hock and Pinnacle make and produce thick after market blades and breakers at a premium price. I find it very interesting that Keen Kutter was doing this long before these companies and I wonder why the thicker blades didn't take off back then.
> 
> Here are some photos of the Keen Kutter iron compared with some of my other blades…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cant say the thicker blade and breaker is any better. I only find it interesting that the concept of a thicker iron was around long before Hock and Pinnacle and other companies produced them.
> 
> I don't have any before pictures of the plane but here are the after pics. Its a fine working plane.


I got one. But a KK 5c. Just waiting on it to arrive.


----------



## jglen490

Dcase said:


> *Keen Kutter KK5 Restored.. New Redwood Tote & Look at blade thickness*
> 
> This was a fun plane to restore and tune for several reasons. First of all when I got this plane I took it apart to clean and right away I could see that the iron and chip breaker were both much thicker and heavier then the traditional bench plane iron/breaker. It was as if someone had replaced the original iron and breaker with a new Hock Iron and breaker. This is the first and only antique plane that I have purchased that had a blade and breaker of this sort. Another fun but difficult task of this restoration was to build a new tote. The original tote was with the blade but it was broken in several spots and even though I tried I was not able to fix it. So I decided to make a new tote.
> 
> The knob and original tote were both made with Rosewood but to make the new tote I used a scrap piece of Redwood. My choice to use the Redwood was because I had a scrap of it on hand that was the right size and thickness. Its also soft so MUCH easier to shape by hand. I had many failed attempts at making totes in the past so I was not looking forward to doing this but it ended up turning out. I just traced a tote from one of my stanley planes and then lined the holes up as best as I could with the broken tote. I cut it out and shaped it all by hand.
> 
> Back to the blade… I did some checking online and found a few other cases of discussion in regards to the thicker Keen Kutter blades but I found no official information from the company's stand point as to why they decided to make their blades and chip breakers so much thicker when all the other companies had the standard blades and breakers. Today companies like Hock and Pinnacle make and produce thick after market blades and breakers at a premium price. I find it very interesting that Keen Kutter was doing this long before these companies and I wonder why the thicker blades didn't take off back then.
> 
> Here are some photos of the Keen Kutter iron compared with some of my other blades…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cant say the thicker blade and breaker is any better. I only find it interesting that the concept of a thicker iron was around long before Hock and Pinnacle and other companies produced them.
> 
> I don't have any before pictures of the plane but here are the after pics. Its a fine working plane.


Thank you for your blog, Dan! This one is an interesting find, and a great job! I found a KK5 in a fleatique store last weekend. I started working on it this weekend. basically, all I've done so far is to disassemble it and clean some parts to see what condition it is in. Definitely not a rustbucket, but a fair amount of surface rust and pitting, and the blade has some nicks on the edge. The blade still has the E.C. Simmons/Keen Kutter logo etched into the top part. If I understand correctly, the KK5 is an early 20th century tool, manufactured for about 10 years. I'm excited, because this looks to have been taken care of over its life - to date. The tote is broken near the bottom, but it is a clean break - looks like some epoxy might fix it. The tote appears to be newer than the knob.


----------



## Dcase

*An Extremely Rough Stanley #22 brought back to life...*

This was a rough one. Looking at it on the outside it looked pretty decent but once I took a peak on the inside I realized I was in for a challenge. There were times I didn't think this one was going to see life again but that only made me work a little harder at saving it…

The metal parts of this plane were badly rusted. Possibly the worst I have seen personally. However it had a couple good things going for it. One good this was it was complete. All the parts and pieces were there and for the most part didn't look damaged besides the rust… Another positive is the wood base was in rather good shape. I have restored about 6 other trans wood bottom planes and usually the wood has a lot of dents, paint splats and dirt covering it. This one was either sanded down long ago or it just was not used all that much. The wood was a grey color from age but it only took me a few min of sanding and it looked new again. That was nice because it gave me more time to work on the metal..

Here is what I had to work with..






















































The breaker was rusted solid to the iron.. The cap screw would not budge so I had to soak it with WD40 for a while before I was able to break it loose. The other big issue was the brass adjustment wheel. The screw that it turns on was so rusted that some of the threads rusted away making it impossible to remove the brass wheel without damaging it. I soaked that in WD40 and cleaned the threads with a wire brush. I managed to get the brass wheel to turn just far enough on the threads to still have it usable. Of coarse in time as the iron shortens it will no longer work as the wheel can only be backed up so far. I wont be using the plane enough for me to have to ever worry about it though.

All the metal parts were soaked over night in EvapoRust. As they soaked the wood part of the plane was finished with a few coats of Shellac.

The EvapoRust worked great. Best product ever for rust. The EvapoRust took care of most of the rust and the rest I took off with wire brush and sand paper… Once I could see the iron I realized this is now probably my oldest plane. The iron is a very early type and its the first time I have got a plane with that type iron.

I had to lap the back of the iron for a while to get through all the pitting and get it flat. That took me a few hours. I just waxed all the metal parts and put it back together. After a little while I got it all adjusted and the plane works great.

I really like the size of this plane.. I don't really use any of my wood bottom planes because they are very tricky to adjust and get to cut right… This one however seems to work pretty well and its very comfortable to hold in one hand. Its almost like a big block plane.


----------



## donwilwol

Dcase said:


> *An Extremely Rough Stanley #22 brought back to life...*
> 
> This was a rough one. Looking at it on the outside it looked pretty decent but once I took a peak on the inside I realized I was in for a challenge. There were times I didn't think this one was going to see life again but that only made me work a little harder at saving it…
> 
> The metal parts of this plane were badly rusted. Possibly the worst I have seen personally. However it had a couple good things going for it. One good this was it was complete. All the parts and pieces were there and for the most part didn't look damaged besides the rust… Another positive is the wood base was in rather good shape. I have restored about 6 other trans wood bottom planes and usually the wood has a lot of dents, paint splats and dirt covering it. This one was either sanded down long ago or it just was not used all that much. The wood was a grey color from age but it only took me a few min of sanding and it looked new again. That was nice because it gave me more time to work on the metal..
> 
> Here is what I had to work with..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The breaker was rusted solid to the iron.. The cap screw would not budge so I had to soak it with WD40 for a while before I was able to break it loose. The other big issue was the brass adjustment wheel. The screw that it turns on was so rusted that some of the threads rusted away making it impossible to remove the brass wheel without damaging it. I soaked that in WD40 and cleaned the threads with a wire brush. I managed to get the brass wheel to turn just far enough on the threads to still have it usable. Of coarse in time as the iron shortens it will no longer work as the wheel can only be backed up so far. I wont be using the plane enough for me to have to ever worry about it though.
> 
> All the metal parts were soaked over night in EvapoRust. As they soaked the wood part of the plane was finished with a few coats of Shellac.
> 
> The EvapoRust worked great. Best product ever for rust. The EvapoRust took care of most of the rust and the rest I took off with wire brush and sand paper… Once I could see the iron I realized this is now probably my oldest plane. The iron is a very early type and its the first time I have got a plane with that type iron.
> 
> I had to lap the back of the iron for a while to get through all the pitting and get it flat. That took me a few hours. I just waxed all the metal parts and put it back together. After a little while I got it all adjusted and the plane works great.
> 
> I really like the size of this plane.. I don't really use any of my wood bottom planes because they are very tricky to adjust and get to cut right… This one however seems to work pretty well and its very comfortable to hold in one hand. Its almost like a big block plane.


that was one nasty rust bucket. Nice restoration.


----------



## ShaneA

Dcase said:


> *An Extremely Rough Stanley #22 brought back to life...*
> 
> This was a rough one. Looking at it on the outside it looked pretty decent but once I took a peak on the inside I realized I was in for a challenge. There were times I didn't think this one was going to see life again but that only made me work a little harder at saving it…
> 
> The metal parts of this plane were badly rusted. Possibly the worst I have seen personally. However it had a couple good things going for it. One good this was it was complete. All the parts and pieces were there and for the most part didn't look damaged besides the rust… Another positive is the wood base was in rather good shape. I have restored about 6 other trans wood bottom planes and usually the wood has a lot of dents, paint splats and dirt covering it. This one was either sanded down long ago or it just was not used all that much. The wood was a grey color from age but it only took me a few min of sanding and it looked new again. That was nice because it gave me more time to work on the metal..
> 
> Here is what I had to work with..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The breaker was rusted solid to the iron.. The cap screw would not budge so I had to soak it with WD40 for a while before I was able to break it loose. The other big issue was the brass adjustment wheel. The screw that it turns on was so rusted that some of the threads rusted away making it impossible to remove the brass wheel without damaging it. I soaked that in WD40 and cleaned the threads with a wire brush. I managed to get the brass wheel to turn just far enough on the threads to still have it usable. Of coarse in time as the iron shortens it will no longer work as the wheel can only be backed up so far. I wont be using the plane enough for me to have to ever worry about it though.
> 
> All the metal parts were soaked over night in EvapoRust. As they soaked the wood part of the plane was finished with a few coats of Shellac.
> 
> The EvapoRust worked great. Best product ever for rust. The EvapoRust took care of most of the rust and the rest I took off with wire brush and sand paper… Once I could see the iron I realized this is now probably my oldest plane. The iron is a very early type and its the first time I have got a plane with that type iron.
> 
> I had to lap the back of the iron for a while to get through all the pitting and get it flat. That took me a few hours. I just waxed all the metal parts and put it back together. After a little while I got it all adjusted and the plane works great.
> 
> I really like the size of this plane.. I don't really use any of my wood bottom planes because they are very tricky to adjust and get to cut right… This one however seems to work pretty well and its very comfortable to hold in one hand. Its almost like a big block plane.


Wow, great restore job. You have a vision for what they can be.


----------



## exelectrician

Dcase said:


> *An Extremely Rough Stanley #22 brought back to life...*
> 
> This was a rough one. Looking at it on the outside it looked pretty decent but once I took a peak on the inside I realized I was in for a challenge. There were times I didn't think this one was going to see life again but that only made me work a little harder at saving it…
> 
> The metal parts of this plane were badly rusted. Possibly the worst I have seen personally. However it had a couple good things going for it. One good this was it was complete. All the parts and pieces were there and for the most part didn't look damaged besides the rust… Another positive is the wood base was in rather good shape. I have restored about 6 other trans wood bottom planes and usually the wood has a lot of dents, paint splats and dirt covering it. This one was either sanded down long ago or it just was not used all that much. The wood was a grey color from age but it only took me a few min of sanding and it looked new again. That was nice because it gave me more time to work on the metal..
> 
> Here is what I had to work with..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The breaker was rusted solid to the iron.. The cap screw would not budge so I had to soak it with WD40 for a while before I was able to break it loose. The other big issue was the brass adjustment wheel. The screw that it turns on was so rusted that some of the threads rusted away making it impossible to remove the brass wheel without damaging it. I soaked that in WD40 and cleaned the threads with a wire brush. I managed to get the brass wheel to turn just far enough on the threads to still have it usable. Of coarse in time as the iron shortens it will no longer work as the wheel can only be backed up so far. I wont be using the plane enough for me to have to ever worry about it though.
> 
> All the metal parts were soaked over night in EvapoRust. As they soaked the wood part of the plane was finished with a few coats of Shellac.
> 
> The EvapoRust worked great. Best product ever for rust. The EvapoRust took care of most of the rust and the rest I took off with wire brush and sand paper… Once I could see the iron I realized this is now probably my oldest plane. The iron is a very early type and its the first time I have got a plane with that type iron.
> 
> I had to lap the back of the iron for a while to get through all the pitting and get it flat. That took me a few hours. I just waxed all the metal parts and put it back together. After a little while I got it all adjusted and the plane works great.
> 
> I really like the size of this plane.. I don't really use any of my wood bottom planes because they are very tricky to adjust and get to cut right… This one however seems to work pretty well and its very comfortable to hold in one hand. Its almost like a big block plane.


You are very good at restoring hand planes. I tip my hat to you Sir.
Here is a tip, when searching craigslist under tools search for - plains seems that many people spell plane that way. Also they get far fewer hits because of the spelling and you have a better chance of getting a bargain, worked for me, could work for you.


----------



## WayneC

Dcase said:


> *An Extremely Rough Stanley #22 brought back to life...*
> 
> This was a rough one. Looking at it on the outside it looked pretty decent but once I took a peak on the inside I realized I was in for a challenge. There were times I didn't think this one was going to see life again but that only made me work a little harder at saving it…
> 
> The metal parts of this plane were badly rusted. Possibly the worst I have seen personally. However it had a couple good things going for it. One good this was it was complete. All the parts and pieces were there and for the most part didn't look damaged besides the rust… Another positive is the wood base was in rather good shape. I have restored about 6 other trans wood bottom planes and usually the wood has a lot of dents, paint splats and dirt covering it. This one was either sanded down long ago or it just was not used all that much. The wood was a grey color from age but it only took me a few min of sanding and it looked new again. That was nice because it gave me more time to work on the metal..
> 
> Here is what I had to work with..
> 
> 
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> 
> The breaker was rusted solid to the iron.. The cap screw would not budge so I had to soak it with WD40 for a while before I was able to break it loose. The other big issue was the brass adjustment wheel. The screw that it turns on was so rusted that some of the threads rusted away making it impossible to remove the brass wheel without damaging it. I soaked that in WD40 and cleaned the threads with a wire brush. I managed to get the brass wheel to turn just far enough on the threads to still have it usable. Of coarse in time as the iron shortens it will no longer work as the wheel can only be backed up so far. I wont be using the plane enough for me to have to ever worry about it though.
> 
> All the metal parts were soaked over night in EvapoRust. As they soaked the wood part of the plane was finished with a few coats of Shellac.
> 
> The EvapoRust worked great. Best product ever for rust. The EvapoRust took care of most of the rust and the rest I took off with wire brush and sand paper… Once I could see the iron I realized this is now probably my oldest plane. The iron is a very early type and its the first time I have got a plane with that type iron.
> 
> I had to lap the back of the iron for a while to get through all the pitting and get it flat. That took me a few hours. I just waxed all the metal parts and put it back together. After a little while I got it all adjusted and the plane works great.
> 
> I really like the size of this plane.. I don't really use any of my wood bottom planes because they are very tricky to adjust and get to cut right… This one however seems to work pretty well and its very comfortable to hold in one hand. Its almost like a big block plane.


Well done, I would have probably chucked that one.


----------



## blackcherry

Dcase said:


> *An Extremely Rough Stanley #22 brought back to life...*
> 
> This was a rough one. Looking at it on the outside it looked pretty decent but once I took a peak on the inside I realized I was in for a challenge. There were times I didn't think this one was going to see life again but that only made me work a little harder at saving it…
> 
> The metal parts of this plane were badly rusted. Possibly the worst I have seen personally. However it had a couple good things going for it. One good this was it was complete. All the parts and pieces were there and for the most part didn't look damaged besides the rust… Another positive is the wood base was in rather good shape. I have restored about 6 other trans wood bottom planes and usually the wood has a lot of dents, paint splats and dirt covering it. This one was either sanded down long ago or it just was not used all that much. The wood was a grey color from age but it only took me a few min of sanding and it looked new again. That was nice because it gave me more time to work on the metal..
> 
> Here is what I had to work with..
> 
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> 
> The breaker was rusted solid to the iron.. The cap screw would not budge so I had to soak it with WD40 for a while before I was able to break it loose. The other big issue was the brass adjustment wheel. The screw that it turns on was so rusted that some of the threads rusted away making it impossible to remove the brass wheel without damaging it. I soaked that in WD40 and cleaned the threads with a wire brush. I managed to get the brass wheel to turn just far enough on the threads to still have it usable. Of coarse in time as the iron shortens it will no longer work as the wheel can only be backed up so far. I wont be using the plane enough for me to have to ever worry about it though.
> 
> All the metal parts were soaked over night in EvapoRust. As they soaked the wood part of the plane was finished with a few coats of Shellac.
> 
> The EvapoRust worked great. Best product ever for rust. The EvapoRust took care of most of the rust and the rest I took off with wire brush and sand paper… Once I could see the iron I realized this is now probably my oldest plane. The iron is a very early type and its the first time I have got a plane with that type iron.
> 
> I had to lap the back of the iron for a while to get through all the pitting and get it flat. That took me a few hours. I just waxed all the metal parts and put it back together. After a little while I got it all adjusted and the plane works great.
> 
> I really like the size of this plane.. I don't really use any of my wood bottom planes because they are very tricky to adjust and get to cut right… This one however seems to work pretty well and its very comfortable to hold in one hand. Its almost like a big block plane.


Ugly Duckling 4 sure, nice rebirth enjoy using…BC


----------



## carlosponti

Dcase said:


> *An Extremely Rough Stanley #22 brought back to life...*
> 
> This was a rough one. Looking at it on the outside it looked pretty decent but once I took a peak on the inside I realized I was in for a challenge. There were times I didn't think this one was going to see life again but that only made me work a little harder at saving it…
> 
> The metal parts of this plane were badly rusted. Possibly the worst I have seen personally. However it had a couple good things going for it. One good this was it was complete. All the parts and pieces were there and for the most part didn't look damaged besides the rust… Another positive is the wood base was in rather good shape. I have restored about 6 other trans wood bottom planes and usually the wood has a lot of dents, paint splats and dirt covering it. This one was either sanded down long ago or it just was not used all that much. The wood was a grey color from age but it only took me a few min of sanding and it looked new again. That was nice because it gave me more time to work on the metal..
> 
> Here is what I had to work with..
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> The breaker was rusted solid to the iron.. The cap screw would not budge so I had to soak it with WD40 for a while before I was able to break it loose. The other big issue was the brass adjustment wheel. The screw that it turns on was so rusted that some of the threads rusted away making it impossible to remove the brass wheel without damaging it. I soaked that in WD40 and cleaned the threads with a wire brush. I managed to get the brass wheel to turn just far enough on the threads to still have it usable. Of coarse in time as the iron shortens it will no longer work as the wheel can only be backed up so far. I wont be using the plane enough for me to have to ever worry about it though.
> 
> All the metal parts were soaked over night in EvapoRust. As they soaked the wood part of the plane was finished with a few coats of Shellac.
> 
> The EvapoRust worked great. Best product ever for rust. The EvapoRust took care of most of the rust and the rest I took off with wire brush and sand paper… Once I could see the iron I realized this is now probably my oldest plane. The iron is a very early type and its the first time I have got a plane with that type iron.
> 
> I had to lap the back of the iron for a while to get through all the pitting and get it flat. That took me a few hours. I just waxed all the metal parts and put it back together. After a little while I got it all adjusted and the plane works great.
> 
> I really like the size of this plane.. I don't really use any of my wood bottom planes because they are very tricky to adjust and get to cut right… This one however seems to work pretty well and its very comfortable to hold in one hand. Its almost like a big block plane.


wow that was in terrible shape good job getting it back in shaving form. i have one just like it i still have issues with it and chatter.


----------



## Brit

Dcase said:


> *An Extremely Rough Stanley #22 brought back to life...*
> 
> This was a rough one. Looking at it on the outside it looked pretty decent but once I took a peak on the inside I realized I was in for a challenge. There were times I didn't think this one was going to see life again but that only made me work a little harder at saving it…
> 
> The metal parts of this plane were badly rusted. Possibly the worst I have seen personally. However it had a couple good things going for it. One good this was it was complete. All the parts and pieces were there and for the most part didn't look damaged besides the rust… Another positive is the wood base was in rather good shape. I have restored about 6 other trans wood bottom planes and usually the wood has a lot of dents, paint splats and dirt covering it. This one was either sanded down long ago or it just was not used all that much. The wood was a grey color from age but it only took me a few min of sanding and it looked new again. That was nice because it gave me more time to work on the metal..
> 
> Here is what I had to work with..
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> The breaker was rusted solid to the iron.. The cap screw would not budge so I had to soak it with WD40 for a while before I was able to break it loose. The other big issue was the brass adjustment wheel. The screw that it turns on was so rusted that some of the threads rusted away making it impossible to remove the brass wheel without damaging it. I soaked that in WD40 and cleaned the threads with a wire brush. I managed to get the brass wheel to turn just far enough on the threads to still have it usable. Of coarse in time as the iron shortens it will no longer work as the wheel can only be backed up so far. I wont be using the plane enough for me to have to ever worry about it though.
> 
> All the metal parts were soaked over night in EvapoRust. As they soaked the wood part of the plane was finished with a few coats of Shellac.
> 
> The EvapoRust worked great. Best product ever for rust. The EvapoRust took care of most of the rust and the rest I took off with wire brush and sand paper… Once I could see the iron I realized this is now probably my oldest plane. The iron is a very early type and its the first time I have got a plane with that type iron.
> 
> I had to lap the back of the iron for a while to get through all the pitting and get it flat. That took me a few hours. I just waxed all the metal parts and put it back together. After a little while I got it all adjusted and the plane works great.
> 
> I really like the size of this plane.. I don't really use any of my wood bottom planes because they are very tricky to adjust and get to cut right… This one however seems to work pretty well and its very comfortable to hold in one hand. Its almost like a big block plane.


I'm afraid I'm with Wayne, it would gone in the bin. Nice job Dan.


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## saddletramp

Dcase said:


> *An Extremely Rough Stanley #22 brought back to life...*
> 
> This was a rough one. Looking at it on the outside it looked pretty decent but once I took a peak on the inside I realized I was in for a challenge. There were times I didn't think this one was going to see life again but that only made me work a little harder at saving it…
> 
> The metal parts of this plane were badly rusted. Possibly the worst I have seen personally. However it had a couple good things going for it. One good this was it was complete. All the parts and pieces were there and for the most part didn't look damaged besides the rust… Another positive is the wood base was in rather good shape. I have restored about 6 other trans wood bottom planes and usually the wood has a lot of dents, paint splats and dirt covering it. This one was either sanded down long ago or it just was not used all that much. The wood was a grey color from age but it only took me a few min of sanding and it looked new again. That was nice because it gave me more time to work on the metal..
> 
> Here is what I had to work with..
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> The breaker was rusted solid to the iron.. The cap screw would not budge so I had to soak it with WD40 for a while before I was able to break it loose. The other big issue was the brass adjustment wheel. The screw that it turns on was so rusted that some of the threads rusted away making it impossible to remove the brass wheel without damaging it. I soaked that in WD40 and cleaned the threads with a wire brush. I managed to get the brass wheel to turn just far enough on the threads to still have it usable. Of coarse in time as the iron shortens it will no longer work as the wheel can only be backed up so far. I wont be using the plane enough for me to have to ever worry about it though.
> 
> All the metal parts were soaked over night in EvapoRust. As they soaked the wood part of the plane was finished with a few coats of Shellac.
> 
> The EvapoRust worked great. Best product ever for rust. The EvapoRust took care of most of the rust and the rest I took off with wire brush and sand paper… Once I could see the iron I realized this is now probably my oldest plane. The iron is a very early type and its the first time I have got a plane with that type iron.
> 
> I had to lap the back of the iron for a while to get through all the pitting and get it flat. That took me a few hours. I just waxed all the metal parts and put it back together. After a little while I got it all adjusted and the plane works great.
> 
> I really like the size of this plane.. I don't really use any of my wood bottom planes because they are very tricky to adjust and get to cut right… This one however seems to work pretty well and its very comfortable to hold in one hand. Its almost like a big block plane.


Dan, I wouldn't have even given that plane a first look let a lone bought it and if I got it in a box lot, it would not have even got in the garage. Nice job, you are amazing!!!


----------



## Dennisgrosen

Dcase said:


> *An Extremely Rough Stanley #22 brought back to life...*
> 
> This was a rough one. Looking at it on the outside it looked pretty decent but once I took a peak on the inside I realized I was in for a challenge. There were times I didn't think this one was going to see life again but that only made me work a little harder at saving it…
> 
> The metal parts of this plane were badly rusted. Possibly the worst I have seen personally. However it had a couple good things going for it. One good this was it was complete. All the parts and pieces were there and for the most part didn't look damaged besides the rust… Another positive is the wood base was in rather good shape. I have restored about 6 other trans wood bottom planes and usually the wood has a lot of dents, paint splats and dirt covering it. This one was either sanded down long ago or it just was not used all that much. The wood was a grey color from age but it only took me a few min of sanding and it looked new again. That was nice because it gave me more time to work on the metal..
> 
> Here is what I had to work with..
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> The breaker was rusted solid to the iron.. The cap screw would not budge so I had to soak it with WD40 for a while before I was able to break it loose. The other big issue was the brass adjustment wheel. The screw that it turns on was so rusted that some of the threads rusted away making it impossible to remove the brass wheel without damaging it. I soaked that in WD40 and cleaned the threads with a wire brush. I managed to get the brass wheel to turn just far enough on the threads to still have it usable. Of coarse in time as the iron shortens it will no longer work as the wheel can only be backed up so far. I wont be using the plane enough for me to have to ever worry about it though.
> 
> All the metal parts were soaked over night in EvapoRust. As they soaked the wood part of the plane was finished with a few coats of Shellac.
> 
> The EvapoRust worked great. Best product ever for rust. The EvapoRust took care of most of the rust and the rest I took off with wire brush and sand paper… Once I could see the iron I realized this is now probably my oldest plane. The iron is a very early type and its the first time I have got a plane with that type iron.
> 
> I had to lap the back of the iron for a while to get through all the pitting and get it flat. That took me a few hours. I just waxed all the metal parts and put it back together. After a little while I got it all adjusted and the plane works great.
> 
> I really like the size of this plane.. I don't really use any of my wood bottom planes because they are very tricky to adjust and get to cut right… This one however seems to work pretty well and its very comfortable to hold in one hand. Its almost like a big block plane.


niiiice job with that one Dan 
you deffently knows your magic formula spells 
but where is your magic wand

Dennis


----------



## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *An Extremely Rough Stanley #22 brought back to life...*
> 
> This was a rough one. Looking at it on the outside it looked pretty decent but once I took a peak on the inside I realized I was in for a challenge. There were times I didn't think this one was going to see life again but that only made me work a little harder at saving it…
> 
> The metal parts of this plane were badly rusted. Possibly the worst I have seen personally. However it had a couple good things going for it. One good this was it was complete. All the parts and pieces were there and for the most part didn't look damaged besides the rust… Another positive is the wood base was in rather good shape. I have restored about 6 other trans wood bottom planes and usually the wood has a lot of dents, paint splats and dirt covering it. This one was either sanded down long ago or it just was not used all that much. The wood was a grey color from age but it only took me a few min of sanding and it looked new again. That was nice because it gave me more time to work on the metal..
> 
> Here is what I had to work with..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> The breaker was rusted solid to the iron.. The cap screw would not budge so I had to soak it with WD40 for a while before I was able to break it loose. The other big issue was the brass adjustment wheel. The screw that it turns on was so rusted that some of the threads rusted away making it impossible to remove the brass wheel without damaging it. I soaked that in WD40 and cleaned the threads with a wire brush. I managed to get the brass wheel to turn just far enough on the threads to still have it usable. Of coarse in time as the iron shortens it will no longer work as the wheel can only be backed up so far. I wont be using the plane enough for me to have to ever worry about it though.
> 
> All the metal parts were soaked over night in EvapoRust. As they soaked the wood part of the plane was finished with a few coats of Shellac.
> 
> The EvapoRust worked great. Best product ever for rust. The EvapoRust took care of most of the rust and the rest I took off with wire brush and sand paper… Once I could see the iron I realized this is now probably my oldest plane. The iron is a very early type and its the first time I have got a plane with that type iron.
> 
> I had to lap the back of the iron for a while to get through all the pitting and get it flat. That took me a few hours. I just waxed all the metal parts and put it back together. After a little while I got it all adjusted and the plane works great.
> 
> I really like the size of this plane.. I don't really use any of my wood bottom planes because they are very tricky to adjust and get to cut right… This one however seems to work pretty well and its very comfortable to hold in one hand. Its almost like a big block plane.


I got the plane off ebay and the seller only had a single photo of the plane together. From the outside it looked like it was in fair shape. Had I seen the rust damage to the frog and other metal parts I would have passed on it. I don't blame the seller because I was the one who took the gamble bidding on the item with the one photo.. It was also pretty cheap.

I also like a good challenge… Had parts been missing or broken I doubt I would have tried to replace or fix them.

The other thing that interested me was the age of the plane. I don't have a type study for the trans planes but I know thats a really old iron thats seen in the earliest types of the metal planes.

The evapo rust really did the brunt of the work…. Thats why I put that product over so much…


----------



## Bertha

Dcase said:


> *An Extremely Rough Stanley #22 brought back to life...*
> 
> This was a rough one. Looking at it on the outside it looked pretty decent but once I took a peak on the inside I realized I was in for a challenge. There were times I didn't think this one was going to see life again but that only made me work a little harder at saving it…
> 
> The metal parts of this plane were badly rusted. Possibly the worst I have seen personally. However it had a couple good things going for it. One good this was it was complete. All the parts and pieces were there and for the most part didn't look damaged besides the rust… Another positive is the wood base was in rather good shape. I have restored about 6 other trans wood bottom planes and usually the wood has a lot of dents, paint splats and dirt covering it. This one was either sanded down long ago or it just was not used all that much. The wood was a grey color from age but it only took me a few min of sanding and it looked new again. That was nice because it gave me more time to work on the metal..
> 
> Here is what I had to work with..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The breaker was rusted solid to the iron.. The cap screw would not budge so I had to soak it with WD40 for a while before I was able to break it loose. The other big issue was the brass adjustment wheel. The screw that it turns on was so rusted that some of the threads rusted away making it impossible to remove the brass wheel without damaging it. I soaked that in WD40 and cleaned the threads with a wire brush. I managed to get the brass wheel to turn just far enough on the threads to still have it usable. Of coarse in time as the iron shortens it will no longer work as the wheel can only be backed up so far. I wont be using the plane enough for me to have to ever worry about it though.
> 
> All the metal parts were soaked over night in EvapoRust. As they soaked the wood part of the plane was finished with a few coats of Shellac.
> 
> The EvapoRust worked great. Best product ever for rust. The EvapoRust took care of most of the rust and the rest I took off with wire brush and sand paper… Once I could see the iron I realized this is now probably my oldest plane. The iron is a very early type and its the first time I have got a plane with that type iron.
> 
> I had to lap the back of the iron for a while to get through all the pitting and get it flat. That took me a few hours. I just waxed all the metal parts and put it back together. After a little while I got it all adjusted and the plane works great.
> 
> I really like the size of this plane.. I don't really use any of my wood bottom planes because they are very tricky to adjust and get to cut right… This one however seems to work pretty well and its very comfortable to hold in one hand. Its almost like a big block plane.


The uglier the better! This made me smile.


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## mafe

Dcase said:


> *An Extremely Rough Stanley #22 brought back to life...*
> 
> This was a rough one. Looking at it on the outside it looked pretty decent but once I took a peak on the inside I realized I was in for a challenge. There were times I didn't think this one was going to see life again but that only made me work a little harder at saving it…
> 
> The metal parts of this plane were badly rusted. Possibly the worst I have seen personally. However it had a couple good things going for it. One good this was it was complete. All the parts and pieces were there and for the most part didn't look damaged besides the rust… Another positive is the wood base was in rather good shape. I have restored about 6 other trans wood bottom planes and usually the wood has a lot of dents, paint splats and dirt covering it. This one was either sanded down long ago or it just was not used all that much. The wood was a grey color from age but it only took me a few min of sanding and it looked new again. That was nice because it gave me more time to work on the metal..
> 
> Here is what I had to work with..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> The breaker was rusted solid to the iron.. The cap screw would not budge so I had to soak it with WD40 for a while before I was able to break it loose. The other big issue was the brass adjustment wheel. The screw that it turns on was so rusted that some of the threads rusted away making it impossible to remove the brass wheel without damaging it. I soaked that in WD40 and cleaned the threads with a wire brush. I managed to get the brass wheel to turn just far enough on the threads to still have it usable. Of coarse in time as the iron shortens it will no longer work as the wheel can only be backed up so far. I wont be using the plane enough for me to have to ever worry about it though.
> 
> All the metal parts were soaked over night in EvapoRust. As they soaked the wood part of the plane was finished with a few coats of Shellac.
> 
> The EvapoRust worked great. Best product ever for rust. The EvapoRust took care of most of the rust and the rest I took off with wire brush and sand paper… Once I could see the iron I realized this is now probably my oldest plane. The iron is a very early type and its the first time I have got a plane with that type iron.
> 
> I had to lap the back of the iron for a while to get through all the pitting and get it flat. That took me a few hours. I just waxed all the metal parts and put it back together. After a little while I got it all adjusted and the plane works great.
> 
> I really like the size of this plane.. I don't really use any of my wood bottom planes because they are very tricky to adjust and get to cut right… This one however seems to work pretty well and its very comfortable to hold in one hand. Its almost like a big block plane.


This one also made me smile.
I am not sure I would have not just trashed it (given up), but now it is a real gem, you really managed to bring life to it.
Really wonderful!
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## Dcase

*Tuning a Transitional wood plane... Adding inlay to close the throat*

I have come to really like the Transitional style wood planes both for their looks and their feel when using. I have about 10 different trans planes in my shop that I have cleaned and tuned up but they are not used often. The main reason they are not often used is because most of mine have soles that have been worn down to the point where the mouths have become much to wide thus making it very hard to take fine shavings.

I learned of two general ways to fix this problem. You can either add a whole new piece to the bottom of the sole and carve out a new mouth or you can add an inlay to the sole to close the mouth. I decided that I will tune all of my trans planes using one of the two methods. I will be posting more blogs as I do this.

For this blog I am going to show how I added an inlay piece to my Stanley #32 trans plane. Of all of my trans planes I think this one was in the best condition. The mouth was not all that bad and it was very usable the way it was. However being a jointer I wanted to close the mouth up just a little. Since I only wanted to close the mouth by a small amount the inlay was the best option for this plane.

I read a number of articles on how to do this and I found that Garret Hacks "The Hand Plane Book" pretty much tells you everything you need to know on how to do this.

The first step was to cut the inlay piece. I went through my scraps and found a thin scrap of Avidore that was the perfect size and thickness so I went with that. I think any dense hardwood is fine to use. Once I had my piece selected I cut it down to the size and shape of my inlay and traced it onto the plane sole..



























I suppose the best way to cut out the mortise for the inlay would be to use a router but I decided to just use my drill press with a fostner bit. After the bulk of the waste was removed I cleaned up the rest of it with a chisel. 



























The inlay did not turn out to be a perfect fit as there were some very slight gaps around the edges. I just filled them with wood filler and called it good. The inlay piece fit flat and glued strong so its not going to fall out. I don't think it turned out all that bad for my first attempt at this.


















All I have to do is file the mouth a little and then I am good to go.

I am working on another one of my trans planes right now where I put a whole new sole on the bottom of the old sole. I will have another blog on that restoration when I have it finished.


----------



## ShaneA

Dcase said:


> *Tuning a Transitional wood plane... Adding inlay to close the throat*
> 
> I have come to really like the Transitional style wood planes both for their looks and their feel when using. I have about 10 different trans planes in my shop that I have cleaned and tuned up but they are not used often. The main reason they are not often used is because most of mine have soles that have been worn down to the point where the mouths have become much to wide thus making it very hard to take fine shavings.
> 
> I learned of two general ways to fix this problem. You can either add a whole new piece to the bottom of the sole and carve out a new mouth or you can add an inlay to the sole to close the mouth. I decided that I will tune all of my trans planes using one of the two methods. I will be posting more blogs as I do this.
> 
> For this blog I am going to show how I added an inlay piece to my Stanley #32 trans plane. Of all of my trans planes I think this one was in the best condition. The mouth was not all that bad and it was very usable the way it was. However being a jointer I wanted to close the mouth up just a little. Since I only wanted to close the mouth by a small amount the inlay was the best option for this plane.
> 
> I read a number of articles on how to do this and I found that Garret Hacks "The Hand Plane Book" pretty much tells you everything you need to know on how to do this.
> 
> The first step was to cut the inlay piece. I went through my scraps and found a thin scrap of Avidore that was the perfect size and thickness so I went with that. I think any dense hardwood is fine to use. Once I had my piece selected I cut it down to the size and shape of my inlay and traced it onto the plane sole..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suppose the best way to cut out the mortise for the inlay would be to use a router but I decided to just use my drill press with a fostner bit. After the bulk of the waste was removed I cleaned up the rest of it with a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlay did not turn out to be a perfect fit as there were some very slight gaps around the edges. I just filled them with wood filler and called it good. The inlay piece fit flat and glued strong so its not going to fall out. I don't think it turned out all that bad for my first attempt at this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All I have to do is file the mouth a little and then I am good to go.
> 
> I am working on another one of my trans planes right now where I put a whole new sole on the bottom of the old sole. I will have another blog on that restoration when I have it finished.


Great job Dan, thanks for sharing. The fit looks pretty good in your picture.


----------



## ratchet

Dcase said:


> *Tuning a Transitional wood plane... Adding inlay to close the throat*
> 
> I have come to really like the Transitional style wood planes both for their looks and their feel when using. I have about 10 different trans planes in my shop that I have cleaned and tuned up but they are not used often. The main reason they are not often used is because most of mine have soles that have been worn down to the point where the mouths have become much to wide thus making it very hard to take fine shavings.
> 
> I learned of two general ways to fix this problem. You can either add a whole new piece to the bottom of the sole and carve out a new mouth or you can add an inlay to the sole to close the mouth. I decided that I will tune all of my trans planes using one of the two methods. I will be posting more blogs as I do this.
> 
> For this blog I am going to show how I added an inlay piece to my Stanley #32 trans plane. Of all of my trans planes I think this one was in the best condition. The mouth was not all that bad and it was very usable the way it was. However being a jointer I wanted to close the mouth up just a little. Since I only wanted to close the mouth by a small amount the inlay was the best option for this plane.
> 
> I read a number of articles on how to do this and I found that Garret Hacks "The Hand Plane Book" pretty much tells you everything you need to know on how to do this.
> 
> The first step was to cut the inlay piece. I went through my scraps and found a thin scrap of Avidore that was the perfect size and thickness so I went with that. I think any dense hardwood is fine to use. Once I had my piece selected I cut it down to the size and shape of my inlay and traced it onto the plane sole..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suppose the best way to cut out the mortise for the inlay would be to use a router but I decided to just use my drill press with a fostner bit. After the bulk of the waste was removed I cleaned up the rest of it with a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlay did not turn out to be a perfect fit as there were some very slight gaps around the edges. I just filled them with wood filler and called it good. The inlay piece fit flat and glued strong so its not going to fall out. I don't think it turned out all that bad for my first attempt at this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All I have to do is file the mouth a little and then I am good to go.
> 
> I am working on another one of my trans planes right now where I put a whole new sole on the bottom of the old sole. I will have another blog on that restoration when I have it finished.


Very cool refurb. Looking forward to seeing the tight shavings that come out.


----------



## saddletramp

Dcase said:


> *Tuning a Transitional wood plane... Adding inlay to close the throat*
> 
> I have come to really like the Transitional style wood planes both for their looks and their feel when using. I have about 10 different trans planes in my shop that I have cleaned and tuned up but they are not used often. The main reason they are not often used is because most of mine have soles that have been worn down to the point where the mouths have become much to wide thus making it very hard to take fine shavings.
> 
> I learned of two general ways to fix this problem. You can either add a whole new piece to the bottom of the sole and carve out a new mouth or you can add an inlay to the sole to close the mouth. I decided that I will tune all of my trans planes using one of the two methods. I will be posting more blogs as I do this.
> 
> For this blog I am going to show how I added an inlay piece to my Stanley #32 trans plane. Of all of my trans planes I think this one was in the best condition. The mouth was not all that bad and it was very usable the way it was. However being a jointer I wanted to close the mouth up just a little. Since I only wanted to close the mouth by a small amount the inlay was the best option for this plane.
> 
> I read a number of articles on how to do this and I found that Garret Hacks "The Hand Plane Book" pretty much tells you everything you need to know on how to do this.
> 
> The first step was to cut the inlay piece. I went through my scraps and found a thin scrap of Avidore that was the perfect size and thickness so I went with that. I think any dense hardwood is fine to use. Once I had my piece selected I cut it down to the size and shape of my inlay and traced it onto the plane sole..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suppose the best way to cut out the mortise for the inlay would be to use a router but I decided to just use my drill press with a fostner bit. After the bulk of the waste was removed I cleaned up the rest of it with a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlay did not turn out to be a perfect fit as there were some very slight gaps around the edges. I just filled them with wood filler and called it good. The inlay piece fit flat and glued strong so its not going to fall out. I don't think it turned out all that bad for my first attempt at this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All I have to do is file the mouth a little and then I am good to go.
> 
> I am working on another one of my trans planes right now where I put a whole new sole on the bottom of the old sole. I will have another blog on that restoration when I have it finished.


Great restoration and tutorial!!


----------



## donwilwol

Dcase said:


> *Tuning a Transitional wood plane... Adding inlay to close the throat*
> 
> I have come to really like the Transitional style wood planes both for their looks and their feel when using. I have about 10 different trans planes in my shop that I have cleaned and tuned up but they are not used often. The main reason they are not often used is because most of mine have soles that have been worn down to the point where the mouths have become much to wide thus making it very hard to take fine shavings.
> 
> I learned of two general ways to fix this problem. You can either add a whole new piece to the bottom of the sole and carve out a new mouth or you can add an inlay to the sole to close the mouth. I decided that I will tune all of my trans planes using one of the two methods. I will be posting more blogs as I do this.
> 
> For this blog I am going to show how I added an inlay piece to my Stanley #32 trans plane. Of all of my trans planes I think this one was in the best condition. The mouth was not all that bad and it was very usable the way it was. However being a jointer I wanted to close the mouth up just a little. Since I only wanted to close the mouth by a small amount the inlay was the best option for this plane.
> 
> I read a number of articles on how to do this and I found that Garret Hacks "The Hand Plane Book" pretty much tells you everything you need to know on how to do this.
> 
> The first step was to cut the inlay piece. I went through my scraps and found a thin scrap of Avidore that was the perfect size and thickness so I went with that. I think any dense hardwood is fine to use. Once I had my piece selected I cut it down to the size and shape of my inlay and traced it onto the plane sole..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suppose the best way to cut out the mortise for the inlay would be to use a router but I decided to just use my drill press with a fostner bit. After the bulk of the waste was removed I cleaned up the rest of it with a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlay did not turn out to be a perfect fit as there were some very slight gaps around the edges. I just filled them with wood filler and called it good. The inlay piece fit flat and glued strong so its not going to fall out. I don't think it turned out all that bad for my first attempt at this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All I have to do is file the mouth a little and then I am good to go.
> 
> I am working on another one of my trans planes right now where I put a whole new sole on the bottom of the old sole. I will have another blog on that restoration when I have it finished.


Nice job Dan. I hate this job for some reason. Either way you do it, the whole sole or the patch, I just don't like doing it. Your putty job hid any flaws pretty well, it looks great.


----------



## mochoa

Dcase said:


> *Tuning a Transitional wood plane... Adding inlay to close the throat*
> 
> I have come to really like the Transitional style wood planes both for their looks and their feel when using. I have about 10 different trans planes in my shop that I have cleaned and tuned up but they are not used often. The main reason they are not often used is because most of mine have soles that have been worn down to the point where the mouths have become much to wide thus making it very hard to take fine shavings.
> 
> I learned of two general ways to fix this problem. You can either add a whole new piece to the bottom of the sole and carve out a new mouth or you can add an inlay to the sole to close the mouth. I decided that I will tune all of my trans planes using one of the two methods. I will be posting more blogs as I do this.
> 
> For this blog I am going to show how I added an inlay piece to my Stanley #32 trans plane. Of all of my trans planes I think this one was in the best condition. The mouth was not all that bad and it was very usable the way it was. However being a jointer I wanted to close the mouth up just a little. Since I only wanted to close the mouth by a small amount the inlay was the best option for this plane.
> 
> I read a number of articles on how to do this and I found that Garret Hacks "The Hand Plane Book" pretty much tells you everything you need to know on how to do this.
> 
> The first step was to cut the inlay piece. I went through my scraps and found a thin scrap of Avidore that was the perfect size and thickness so I went with that. I think any dense hardwood is fine to use. Once I had my piece selected I cut it down to the size and shape of my inlay and traced it onto the plane sole..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suppose the best way to cut out the mortise for the inlay would be to use a router but I decided to just use my drill press with a fostner bit. After the bulk of the waste was removed I cleaned up the rest of it with a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlay did not turn out to be a perfect fit as there were some very slight gaps around the edges. I just filled them with wood filler and called it good. The inlay piece fit flat and glued strong so its not going to fall out. I don't think it turned out all that bad for my first attempt at this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All I have to do is file the mouth a little and then I am good to go.
> 
> I am working on another one of my trans planes right now where I put a whole new sole on the bottom of the old sole. I will have another blog on that restoration when I have it finished.


Nice blog Dan, good idea using the drill press.

I guess that really can only be done with a transitional where you can take the frog off and lay it flat on the drill press table. For a regular woody you would have to use a router.


----------



## donwilwol

Dcase said:


> *Tuning a Transitional wood plane... Adding inlay to close the throat*
> 
> I have come to really like the Transitional style wood planes both for their looks and their feel when using. I have about 10 different trans planes in my shop that I have cleaned and tuned up but they are not used often. The main reason they are not often used is because most of mine have soles that have been worn down to the point where the mouths have become much to wide thus making it very hard to take fine shavings.
> 
> I learned of two general ways to fix this problem. You can either add a whole new piece to the bottom of the sole and carve out a new mouth or you can add an inlay to the sole to close the mouth. I decided that I will tune all of my trans planes using one of the two methods. I will be posting more blogs as I do this.
> 
> For this blog I am going to show how I added an inlay piece to my Stanley #32 trans plane. Of all of my trans planes I think this one was in the best condition. The mouth was not all that bad and it was very usable the way it was. However being a jointer I wanted to close the mouth up just a little. Since I only wanted to close the mouth by a small amount the inlay was the best option for this plane.
> 
> I read a number of articles on how to do this and I found that Garret Hacks "The Hand Plane Book" pretty much tells you everything you need to know on how to do this.
> 
> The first step was to cut the inlay piece. I went through my scraps and found a thin scrap of Avidore that was the perfect size and thickness so I went with that. I think any dense hardwood is fine to use. Once I had my piece selected I cut it down to the size and shape of my inlay and traced it onto the plane sole..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suppose the best way to cut out the mortise for the inlay would be to use a router but I decided to just use my drill press with a fostner bit. After the bulk of the waste was removed I cleaned up the rest of it with a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlay did not turn out to be a perfect fit as there were some very slight gaps around the edges. I just filled them with wood filler and called it good. The inlay piece fit flat and glued strong so its not going to fall out. I don't think it turned out all that bad for my first attempt at this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All I have to do is file the mouth a little and then I am good to go.
> 
> I am working on another one of my trans planes right now where I put a whole new sole on the bottom of the old sole. I will have another blog on that restoration when I have it finished.


by a router you meant a router plane of course.


----------



## mochoa

Dcase said:


> *Tuning a Transitional wood plane... Adding inlay to close the throat*
> 
> I have come to really like the Transitional style wood planes both for their looks and their feel when using. I have about 10 different trans planes in my shop that I have cleaned and tuned up but they are not used often. The main reason they are not often used is because most of mine have soles that have been worn down to the point where the mouths have become much to wide thus making it very hard to take fine shavings.
> 
> I learned of two general ways to fix this problem. You can either add a whole new piece to the bottom of the sole and carve out a new mouth or you can add an inlay to the sole to close the mouth. I decided that I will tune all of my trans planes using one of the two methods. I will be posting more blogs as I do this.
> 
> For this blog I am going to show how I added an inlay piece to my Stanley #32 trans plane. Of all of my trans planes I think this one was in the best condition. The mouth was not all that bad and it was very usable the way it was. However being a jointer I wanted to close the mouth up just a little. Since I only wanted to close the mouth by a small amount the inlay was the best option for this plane.
> 
> I read a number of articles on how to do this and I found that Garret Hacks "The Hand Plane Book" pretty much tells you everything you need to know on how to do this.
> 
> The first step was to cut the inlay piece. I went through my scraps and found a thin scrap of Avidore that was the perfect size and thickness so I went with that. I think any dense hardwood is fine to use. Once I had my piece selected I cut it down to the size and shape of my inlay and traced it onto the plane sole..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suppose the best way to cut out the mortise for the inlay would be to use a router but I decided to just use my drill press with a fostner bit. After the bulk of the waste was removed I cleaned up the rest of it with a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlay did not turn out to be a perfect fit as there were some very slight gaps around the edges. I just filled them with wood filler and called it good. The inlay piece fit flat and glued strong so its not going to fall out. I don't think it turned out all that bad for my first attempt at this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All I have to do is file the mouth a little and then I am good to go.
> 
> I am working on another one of my trans planes right now where I put a whole new sole on the bottom of the old sole. I will have another blog on that restoration when I have it finished.


Of course, I just don't have one yet. I have a really nice powered router that will have to make due in the meantime. (to think of the ton of vintage tools I could have bought with that money).

I have a Krenov smother that I made a while back out of walnut. Walnut wasn't the best choice for wear resistance (but looks nice) so now the mouth needs closing. I think I'm going to go with the full sole glue on method so I'll stay tuned for that blog.


----------



## superdav721

Dcase said:


> *Tuning a Transitional wood plane... Adding inlay to close the throat*
> 
> I have come to really like the Transitional style wood planes both for their looks and their feel when using. I have about 10 different trans planes in my shop that I have cleaned and tuned up but they are not used often. The main reason they are not often used is because most of mine have soles that have been worn down to the point where the mouths have become much to wide thus making it very hard to take fine shavings.
> 
> I learned of two general ways to fix this problem. You can either add a whole new piece to the bottom of the sole and carve out a new mouth or you can add an inlay to the sole to close the mouth. I decided that I will tune all of my trans planes using one of the two methods. I will be posting more blogs as I do this.
> 
> For this blog I am going to show how I added an inlay piece to my Stanley #32 trans plane. Of all of my trans planes I think this one was in the best condition. The mouth was not all that bad and it was very usable the way it was. However being a jointer I wanted to close the mouth up just a little. Since I only wanted to close the mouth by a small amount the inlay was the best option for this plane.
> 
> I read a number of articles on how to do this and I found that Garret Hacks "The Hand Plane Book" pretty much tells you everything you need to know on how to do this.
> 
> The first step was to cut the inlay piece. I went through my scraps and found a thin scrap of Avidore that was the perfect size and thickness so I went with that. I think any dense hardwood is fine to use. Once I had my piece selected I cut it down to the size and shape of my inlay and traced it onto the plane sole..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suppose the best way to cut out the mortise for the inlay would be to use a router but I decided to just use my drill press with a fostner bit. After the bulk of the waste was removed I cleaned up the rest of it with a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inlay did not turn out to be a perfect fit as there were some very slight gaps around the edges. I just filled them with wood filler and called it good. The inlay piece fit flat and glued strong so its not going to fall out. I don't think it turned out all that bad for my first attempt at this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All I have to do is file the mouth a little and then I am good to go.
> 
> I am working on another one of my trans planes right now where I put a whole new sole on the bottom of the old sole. I will have another blog on that restoration when I have it finished.


Most interesting and well don Dan. 
Another one saved.


----------



## Mambrax

Dcase said:


> *Tuning a Transitional wood plane... Adding inlay to close the throat*
> 
> I have come to really like the Transitional style wood planes both for their looks and their feel when using. I have about 10 different trans planes in my shop that I have cleaned and tuned up but they are not used often. The main reason they are not often used is because most of mine have soles that have been worn down to the point where the mouths have become much to wide thus making it very hard to take fine shavings.
> 
> I learned of two general ways to fix this problem. You can either add a whole new piece to the bottom of the sole and carve out a new mouth or you can add an inlay to the sole to close the mouth. I decided that I will tune all of my trans planes using one of the two methods. I will be posting more blogs as I do this.
> 
> For this blog I am going to show how I added an inlay piece to my Stanley #32 trans plane. Of all of my trans planes I think this one was in the best condition. The mouth was not all that bad and it was very usable the way it was. However being a jointer I wanted to close the mouth up just a little. Since I only wanted to close the mouth by a small amount the inlay was the best option for this plane.
> 
> I read a number of articles on how to do this and I found that Garret Hacks "The Hand Plane Book" pretty much tells you everything you need to know on how to do this.
> 
> The first step was to cut the inlay piece. I went through my scraps and found a thin scrap of Avidore that was the perfect size and thickness so I went with that. I think any dense hardwood is fine to use. Once I had my piece selected I cut it down to the size and shape of my inlay and traced it onto the plane sole..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suppose the best way to cut out the mortise for the inlay would be to use a router but I decided to just use my drill press with a fostner bit. After the bulk of the waste was removed I cleaned up the rest of it with a chisel.
> 
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> 
> The inlay did not turn out to be a perfect fit as there were some very slight gaps around the edges. I just filled them with wood filler and called it good. The inlay piece fit flat and glued strong so its not going to fall out. I don't think it turned out all that bad for my first attempt at this.
> 
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> All I have to do is file the mouth a little and then I am good to go.
> 
> I am working on another one of my trans planes right now where I put a whole new sole on the bottom of the old sole. I will have another blog on that restoration when I have it finished.


very educational, thank for the insight. I have a question : could the same concept being used with 2 strip of brass perpendicular to the plane body in front and back of the mouth? It's something i'm thinking about but uncertain on the result.


----------



## Dcase

*Adding a new sole to wood bottom plane. Stanley #23 restored w new sole*

In my last blog I showed how I added an inlay piece to close up the throat of one of my transitional wood planes. Now I am going to show another method I learned and that is to add a whole new sole to the bottom of the existing worn sole. I will also show how I fixed a stripped out screw hole on the wood trans plane.

Like the inlay I recently completed, this is the first time I have done this so it was a learning experience. However I found this method to be a bit easier then the inlay. The plane is my Stanley #23 and looking at the condition of the wood body I could tell it had been flattened many times in the past.

The first thing I did was take the plane apart and joint the sole on the power jointer followed up by a hand plane to get a nice flat bottom in which to glue the new piece on. 









For the new sole piece I used a piece of Avidore wood. I chose this wood because I had a piece the right size and because its a light color which I thought meshed well with the beech. 


















After the glue dried I used a flush cut saw, block plane and rasp to flush up the new sole to the old one. 









Another repair that needed to be made on this plane dealt with the frog screws. One of the holes for the frog screw had been stripped out and the screw would not bite at all in the hole. To fix this I simply drilled the hole out slightly larger then it was and then plugged it and re drilled the hole for the screw. 


















The next step was to carve out the mouth on the new sole. This was rather straight forward, I just followed the old bedding with my chisel and slowly chopped away until I was about 3/8ths or so into the new sole. After I had enough carved out I ran through the power jointer taking multiple passes. After so many passes the new mouth will start to show and open up. Once the whole mouth was exposed I stopped jointing and finished tuning the opening of the mouth with a file.


















I sanded the old body down and refinished it with a few coats of tung oil. I figured I might as well re paint the metal part too. The plane works a lot better now and the tighter throat allows it to take consistent fine shavings. 






















































Who said transitional planes were garbage? IN YO FACE!


----------



## ShaneA

Dcase said:


> *Adding a new sole to wood bottom plane. Stanley #23 restored w new sole*
> 
> In my last blog I showed how I added an inlay piece to close up the throat of one of my transitional wood planes. Now I am going to show another method I learned and that is to add a whole new sole to the bottom of the existing worn sole. I will also show how I fixed a stripped out screw hole on the wood trans plane.
> 
> Like the inlay I recently completed, this is the first time I have done this so it was a learning experience. However I found this method to be a bit easier then the inlay. The plane is my Stanley #23 and looking at the condition of the wood body I could tell it had been flattened many times in the past.
> 
> The first thing I did was take the plane apart and joint the sole on the power jointer followed up by a hand plane to get a nice flat bottom in which to glue the new piece on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the new sole piece I used a piece of Avidore wood. I chose this wood because I had a piece the right size and because its a light color which I thought meshed well with the beech.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue dried I used a flush cut saw, block plane and rasp to flush up the new sole to the old one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another repair that needed to be made on this plane dealt with the frog screws. One of the holes for the frog screw had been stripped out and the screw would not bite at all in the hole. To fix this I simply drilled the hole out slightly larger then it was and then plugged it and re drilled the hole for the screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step was to carve out the mouth on the new sole. This was rather straight forward, I just followed the old bedding with my chisel and slowly chopped away until I was about 3/8ths or so into the new sole. After I had enough carved out I ran through the power jointer taking multiple passes. After so many passes the new mouth will start to show and open up. Once the whole mouth was exposed I stopped jointing and finished tuning the opening of the mouth with a file.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sanded the old body down and refinished it with a few coats of tung oil. I figured I might as well re paint the metal part too. The plane works a lot better now and the tighter throat allows it to take consistent fine shavings.
> 
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> 
> Who said transitional planes were garbage? IN YO FACE!


Well done Dan. Look forward to whatever you fix up next.


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## BrandonW

Dcase said:


> *Adding a new sole to wood bottom plane. Stanley #23 restored w new sole*
> 
> In my last blog I showed how I added an inlay piece to close up the throat of one of my transitional wood planes. Now I am going to show another method I learned and that is to add a whole new sole to the bottom of the existing worn sole. I will also show how I fixed a stripped out screw hole on the wood trans plane.
> 
> Like the inlay I recently completed, this is the first time I have done this so it was a learning experience. However I found this method to be a bit easier then the inlay. The plane is my Stanley #23 and looking at the condition of the wood body I could tell it had been flattened many times in the past.
> 
> The first thing I did was take the plane apart and joint the sole on the power jointer followed up by a hand plane to get a nice flat bottom in which to glue the new piece on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the new sole piece I used a piece of Avidore wood. I chose this wood because I had a piece the right size and because its a light color which I thought meshed well with the beech.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue dried I used a flush cut saw, block plane and rasp to flush up the new sole to the old one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another repair that needed to be made on this plane dealt with the frog screws. One of the holes for the frog screw had been stripped out and the screw would not bite at all in the hole. To fix this I simply drilled the hole out slightly larger then it was and then plugged it and re drilled the hole for the screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step was to carve out the mouth on the new sole. This was rather straight forward, I just followed the old bedding with my chisel and slowly chopped away until I was about 3/8ths or so into the new sole. After I had enough carved out I ran through the power jointer taking multiple passes. After so many passes the new mouth will start to show and open up. Once the whole mouth was exposed I stopped jointing and finished tuning the opening of the mouth with a file.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sanded the old body down and refinished it with a few coats of tung oil. I figured I might as well re paint the metal part too. The plane works a lot better now and the tighter throat allows it to take consistent fine shavings.
> 
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> 
> Who said transitional planes were garbage? IN YO FACE!


Dan, in answer to your last question: Patrick Leach.

Great work, as always!


----------



## mochoa

Dcase said:


> *Adding a new sole to wood bottom plane. Stanley #23 restored w new sole*
> 
> In my last blog I showed how I added an inlay piece to close up the throat of one of my transitional wood planes. Now I am going to show another method I learned and that is to add a whole new sole to the bottom of the existing worn sole. I will also show how I fixed a stripped out screw hole on the wood trans plane.
> 
> Like the inlay I recently completed, this is the first time I have done this so it was a learning experience. However I found this method to be a bit easier then the inlay. The plane is my Stanley #23 and looking at the condition of the wood body I could tell it had been flattened many times in the past.
> 
> The first thing I did was take the plane apart and joint the sole on the power jointer followed up by a hand plane to get a nice flat bottom in which to glue the new piece on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the new sole piece I used a piece of Avidore wood. I chose this wood because I had a piece the right size and because its a light color which I thought meshed well with the beech.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue dried I used a flush cut saw, block plane and rasp to flush up the new sole to the old one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another repair that needed to be made on this plane dealt with the frog screws. One of the holes for the frog screw had been stripped out and the screw would not bite at all in the hole. To fix this I simply drilled the hole out slightly larger then it was and then plugged it and re drilled the hole for the screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step was to carve out the mouth on the new sole. This was rather straight forward, I just followed the old bedding with my chisel and slowly chopped away until I was about 3/8ths or so into the new sole. After I had enough carved out I ran through the power jointer taking multiple passes. After so many passes the new mouth will start to show and open up. Once the whole mouth was exposed I stopped jointing and finished tuning the opening of the mouth with a file.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sanded the old body down and refinished it with a few coats of tung oil. I figured I might as well re paint the metal part too. The plane works a lot better now and the tighter throat allows it to take consistent fine shavings.
> 
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> 
> Who said transitional planes were garbage? IN YO FACE!


Super nice, those shavings are sooo sweet!


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## smndrummer

Dcase said:


> *Adding a new sole to wood bottom plane. Stanley #23 restored w new sole*
> 
> In my last blog I showed how I added an inlay piece to close up the throat of one of my transitional wood planes. Now I am going to show another method I learned and that is to add a whole new sole to the bottom of the existing worn sole. I will also show how I fixed a stripped out screw hole on the wood trans plane.
> 
> Like the inlay I recently completed, this is the first time I have done this so it was a learning experience. However I found this method to be a bit easier then the inlay. The plane is my Stanley #23 and looking at the condition of the wood body I could tell it had been flattened many times in the past.
> 
> The first thing I did was take the plane apart and joint the sole on the power jointer followed up by a hand plane to get a nice flat bottom in which to glue the new piece on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the new sole piece I used a piece of Avidore wood. I chose this wood because I had a piece the right size and because its a light color which I thought meshed well with the beech.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue dried I used a flush cut saw, block plane and rasp to flush up the new sole to the old one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another repair that needed to be made on this plane dealt with the frog screws. One of the holes for the frog screw had been stripped out and the screw would not bite at all in the hole. To fix this I simply drilled the hole out slightly larger then it was and then plugged it and re drilled the hole for the screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step was to carve out the mouth on the new sole. This was rather straight forward, I just followed the old bedding with my chisel and slowly chopped away until I was about 3/8ths or so into the new sole. After I had enough carved out I ran through the power jointer taking multiple passes. After so many passes the new mouth will start to show and open up. Once the whole mouth was exposed I stopped jointing and finished tuning the opening of the mouth with a file.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sanded the old body down and refinished it with a few coats of tung oil. I figured I might as well re paint the metal part too. The plane works a lot better now and the tighter throat allows it to take consistent fine shavings.
> 
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> 
> Who said transitional planes were garbage? IN YO FACE!


That's sweet man. I don't have the patience for the transitional planes right now, but it looks
Likes you have a very fine tool to use now. Lol @ in yo face.


----------



## Brit

Dcase said:


> *Adding a new sole to wood bottom plane. Stanley #23 restored w new sole*
> 
> In my last blog I showed how I added an inlay piece to close up the throat of one of my transitional wood planes. Now I am going to show another method I learned and that is to add a whole new sole to the bottom of the existing worn sole. I will also show how I fixed a stripped out screw hole on the wood trans plane.
> 
> Like the inlay I recently completed, this is the first time I have done this so it was a learning experience. However I found this method to be a bit easier then the inlay. The plane is my Stanley #23 and looking at the condition of the wood body I could tell it had been flattened many times in the past.
> 
> The first thing I did was take the plane apart and joint the sole on the power jointer followed up by a hand plane to get a nice flat bottom in which to glue the new piece on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the new sole piece I used a piece of Avidore wood. I chose this wood because I had a piece the right size and because its a light color which I thought meshed well with the beech.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue dried I used a flush cut saw, block plane and rasp to flush up the new sole to the old one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another repair that needed to be made on this plane dealt with the frog screws. One of the holes for the frog screw had been stripped out and the screw would not bite at all in the hole. To fix this I simply drilled the hole out slightly larger then it was and then plugged it and re drilled the hole for the screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step was to carve out the mouth on the new sole. This was rather straight forward, I just followed the old bedding with my chisel and slowly chopped away until I was about 3/8ths or so into the new sole. After I had enough carved out I ran through the power jointer taking multiple passes. After so many passes the new mouth will start to show and open up. Once the whole mouth was exposed I stopped jointing and finished tuning the opening of the mouth with a file.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sanded the old body down and refinished it with a few coats of tung oil. I figured I might as well re paint the metal part too. The plane works a lot better now and the tighter throat allows it to take consistent fine shavings.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> Who said transitional planes were garbage? IN YO FACE!


Great blog Dan, thanks for taking the time.


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## exelectrician

Dcase said:


> *Adding a new sole to wood bottom plane. Stanley #23 restored w new sole*
> 
> In my last blog I showed how I added an inlay piece to close up the throat of one of my transitional wood planes. Now I am going to show another method I learned and that is to add a whole new sole to the bottom of the existing worn sole. I will also show how I fixed a stripped out screw hole on the wood trans plane.
> 
> Like the inlay I recently completed, this is the first time I have done this so it was a learning experience. However I found this method to be a bit easier then the inlay. The plane is my Stanley #23 and looking at the condition of the wood body I could tell it had been flattened many times in the past.
> 
> The first thing I did was take the plane apart and joint the sole on the power jointer followed up by a hand plane to get a nice flat bottom in which to glue the new piece on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the new sole piece I used a piece of Avidore wood. I chose this wood because I had a piece the right size and because its a light color which I thought meshed well with the beech.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue dried I used a flush cut saw, block plane and rasp to flush up the new sole to the old one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another repair that needed to be made on this plane dealt with the frog screws. One of the holes for the frog screw had been stripped out and the screw would not bite at all in the hole. To fix this I simply drilled the hole out slightly larger then it was and then plugged it and re drilled the hole for the screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step was to carve out the mouth on the new sole. This was rather straight forward, I just followed the old bedding with my chisel and slowly chopped away until I was about 3/8ths or so into the new sole. After I had enough carved out I ran through the power jointer taking multiple passes. After so many passes the new mouth will start to show and open up. Once the whole mouth was exposed I stopped jointing and finished tuning the opening of the mouth with a file.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sanded the old body down and refinished it with a few coats of tung oil. I figured I might as well re paint the metal part too. The plane works a lot better now and the tighter throat allows it to take consistent fine shavings.
> 
> 
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> 
> Who said transitional planes were garbage? IN YO FACE!


Tender Loving Care. Now you have your reward, silky thin shavings and the sound, that sound …... mmmmm


----------



## racerglen

Dcase said:


> *Adding a new sole to wood bottom plane. Stanley #23 restored w new sole*
> 
> In my last blog I showed how I added an inlay piece to close up the throat of one of my transitional wood planes. Now I am going to show another method I learned and that is to add a whole new sole to the bottom of the existing worn sole. I will also show how I fixed a stripped out screw hole on the wood trans plane.
> 
> Like the inlay I recently completed, this is the first time I have done this so it was a learning experience. However I found this method to be a bit easier then the inlay. The plane is my Stanley #23 and looking at the condition of the wood body I could tell it had been flattened many times in the past.
> 
> The first thing I did was take the plane apart and joint the sole on the power jointer followed up by a hand plane to get a nice flat bottom in which to glue the new piece on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the new sole piece I used a piece of Avidore wood. I chose this wood because I had a piece the right size and because its a light color which I thought meshed well with the beech.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue dried I used a flush cut saw, block plane and rasp to flush up the new sole to the old one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another repair that needed to be made on this plane dealt with the frog screws. One of the holes for the frog screw had been stripped out and the screw would not bite at all in the hole. To fix this I simply drilled the hole out slightly larger then it was and then plugged it and re drilled the hole for the screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step was to carve out the mouth on the new sole. This was rather straight forward, I just followed the old bedding with my chisel and slowly chopped away until I was about 3/8ths or so into the new sole. After I had enough carved out I ran through the power jointer taking multiple passes. After so many passes the new mouth will start to show and open up. Once the whole mouth was exposed I stopped jointing and finished tuning the opening of the mouth with a file.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sanded the old body down and refinished it with a few coats of tung oil. I figured I might as well re paint the metal part too. The plane works a lot better now and the tighter throat allows it to take consistent fine shavings.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Who said transitional planes were garbage? IN YO FACE!


A beauty !


----------



## AnthonyReed

Dcase said:


> *Adding a new sole to wood bottom plane. Stanley #23 restored w new sole*
> 
> In my last blog I showed how I added an inlay piece to close up the throat of one of my transitional wood planes. Now I am going to show another method I learned and that is to add a whole new sole to the bottom of the existing worn sole. I will also show how I fixed a stripped out screw hole on the wood trans plane.
> 
> Like the inlay I recently completed, this is the first time I have done this so it was a learning experience. However I found this method to be a bit easier then the inlay. The plane is my Stanley #23 and looking at the condition of the wood body I could tell it had been flattened many times in the past.
> 
> The first thing I did was take the plane apart and joint the sole on the power jointer followed up by a hand plane to get a nice flat bottom in which to glue the new piece on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the new sole piece I used a piece of Avidore wood. I chose this wood because I had a piece the right size and because its a light color which I thought meshed well with the beech.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue dried I used a flush cut saw, block plane and rasp to flush up the new sole to the old one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another repair that needed to be made on this plane dealt with the frog screws. One of the holes for the frog screw had been stripped out and the screw would not bite at all in the hole. To fix this I simply drilled the hole out slightly larger then it was and then plugged it and re drilled the hole for the screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step was to carve out the mouth on the new sole. This was rather straight forward, I just followed the old bedding with my chisel and slowly chopped away until I was about 3/8ths or so into the new sole. After I had enough carved out I ran through the power jointer taking multiple passes. After so many passes the new mouth will start to show and open up. Once the whole mouth was exposed I stopped jointing and finished tuning the opening of the mouth with a file.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sanded the old body down and refinished it with a few coats of tung oil. I figured I might as well re paint the metal part too. The plane works a lot better now and the tighter throat allows it to take consistent fine shavings.
> 
> 
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> 
> Who said transitional planes were garbage? IN YO FACE!


That was fun to see. Outstanding results Dan.

Thanks.


----------



## superdav721

Dcase said:


> *Adding a new sole to wood bottom plane. Stanley #23 restored w new sole*
> 
> In my last blog I showed how I added an inlay piece to close up the throat of one of my transitional wood planes. Now I am going to show another method I learned and that is to add a whole new sole to the bottom of the existing worn sole. I will also show how I fixed a stripped out screw hole on the wood trans plane.
> 
> Like the inlay I recently completed, this is the first time I have done this so it was a learning experience. However I found this method to be a bit easier then the inlay. The plane is my Stanley #23 and looking at the condition of the wood body I could tell it had been flattened many times in the past.
> 
> The first thing I did was take the plane apart and joint the sole on the power jointer followed up by a hand plane to get a nice flat bottom in which to glue the new piece on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the new sole piece I used a piece of Avidore wood. I chose this wood because I had a piece the right size and because its a light color which I thought meshed well with the beech.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> After the glue dried I used a flush cut saw, block plane and rasp to flush up the new sole to the old one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another repair that needed to be made on this plane dealt with the frog screws. One of the holes for the frog screw had been stripped out and the screw would not bite at all in the hole. To fix this I simply drilled the hole out slightly larger then it was and then plugged it and re drilled the hole for the screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step was to carve out the mouth on the new sole. This was rather straight forward, I just followed the old bedding with my chisel and slowly chopped away until I was about 3/8ths or so into the new sole. After I had enough carved out I ran through the power jointer taking multiple passes. After so many passes the new mouth will start to show and open up. Once the whole mouth was exposed I stopped jointing and finished tuning the opening of the mouth with a file.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sanded the old body down and refinished it with a few coats of tung oil. I figured I might as well re paint the metal part too. The plane works a lot better now and the tighter throat allows it to take consistent fine shavings.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Who said transitional planes were garbage? IN YO FACE!


Beautiful work and well done. I love it.


----------



## Thuzmund

Dcase said:


> *Adding a new sole to wood bottom plane. Stanley #23 restored w new sole*
> 
> In my last blog I showed how I added an inlay piece to close up the throat of one of my transitional wood planes. Now I am going to show another method I learned and that is to add a whole new sole to the bottom of the existing worn sole. I will also show how I fixed a stripped out screw hole on the wood trans plane.
> 
> Like the inlay I recently completed, this is the first time I have done this so it was a learning experience. However I found this method to be a bit easier then the inlay. The plane is my Stanley #23 and looking at the condition of the wood body I could tell it had been flattened many times in the past.
> 
> The first thing I did was take the plane apart and joint the sole on the power jointer followed up by a hand plane to get a nice flat bottom in which to glue the new piece on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the new sole piece I used a piece of Avidore wood. I chose this wood because I had a piece the right size and because its a light color which I thought meshed well with the beech.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue dried I used a flush cut saw, block plane and rasp to flush up the new sole to the old one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another repair that needed to be made on this plane dealt with the frog screws. One of the holes for the frog screw had been stripped out and the screw would not bite at all in the hole. To fix this I simply drilled the hole out slightly larger then it was and then plugged it and re drilled the hole for the screw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step was to carve out the mouth on the new sole. This was rather straight forward, I just followed the old bedding with my chisel and slowly chopped away until I was about 3/8ths or so into the new sole. After I had enough carved out I ran through the power jointer taking multiple passes. After so many passes the new mouth will start to show and open up. Once the whole mouth was exposed I stopped jointing and finished tuning the opening of the mouth with a file.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sanded the old body down and refinished it with a few coats of tung oil. I figured I might as well re paint the metal part too. The plane works a lot better now and the tighter throat allows it to take consistent fine shavings.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Who said transitional planes were garbage? IN YO FACE!


Nice! I'm working on a similar project, so thank you!


----------



## Dcase

*Stanley #72 Chamfer Plane... Completely Restored*

The Stanley #72 Chamfer plane was on my list of Stanley specialty planes that I wanted to own. I like this plane from both a collector and a user view point. What I mean by that is its fun to use and its also fun to look at on the shelf.

This is the kind of plane in which I normally wouldn't restore to a like new condition. Had this one been in good condition and had nice patina I would have just sharpened the iron and left the rest alone. However this #72 did not have nice patina and it was in very poor condition. There was hardly any japanning left, it was rusted and the tote and knob had weathered to a grey like color and you couldn't even tell they were rosewood. I paid a premium price for this plane so I figured I would bring it back to looking like a premium plane.

Here are the before pictures of the plane..



























I first took apart and soaked all the metal parts in EvapoRust for a few hours. After that I sanded down the area to be painted, hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned surface to be painted. After the paint dried I polished up the unpainted metal using wet/dry sandpaper. I stopped at 800 grit. I had to do some pretty heavy sanding to the tote and knob in order to get rid of the layer of weathered wood. I finished the wood with Bullseye Shellac Clear.

Here is the plane after…



























!https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/lz6u6ee.jpg

!













































My first thoughts on using this plane-

I have only had the chance so far to test the plane out on a few boards. In order to give it a real review I will have to have more time with it. On my first test piece things did not go well. The front end of the plane is adjustable, you loosen the star shaped knob on the back and you can lift or lower the front. The position of the front end determines the depth of the chamfer. On my first trial run with the plane I had the depth set to deep and I didn't really get a nice looking chamfer. I basically just hogged off the edge of the board. I re adjusted the front end and tried again on a new piece. Adjusting the front made a huge difference, I got a much nicer chamfer on my 2nd attempt. For the third board I adjusted the front yet again and planed an even smaller chamfer. I tried taking photos of these boards but I was using light color wood and due to the lights in my shop and camera quality I couldn't quite capture the chamfer the way I wanted. I will have to use a darker wood and try and get pictures to post in a later update.

After figuring out the depth adjustment I ran into another problem. I was having a hard time both starting and ending the chamfer. Starting the chamfer from the end of the board was tough so I found it best to start the cut an inch or so from the edge, once chamfer is established I found it easiest to just turn plane around and plane off that first inch from the other direction. The other issue was finishing the cut at the other end of the board. Of coarse if your doing a stopped chamfer this would not be a problem but if your going all the way to the end I found you have to make sure to keep good pressure on the back of the plane. On the first and 2nd test pieces I was not keeping enough down pressure on the back so when I reached the end the cutter would dig down making a deeper cut at the end. Both of these are just minor user issues that will just take me some time to master.

Is this a handy user plane to have?

I think this plane is great for times where you need to cut long straight perfect chamfers. For smaller projects I will probably stick with my block plane but if I want to bevel the edge of a table or cut chamfers on casework I will reach for the #72. I will have to spend some time with it in order to give it a real review but thats just my early thoughts.


----------



## ShaneA

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #72 Chamfer Plane... Completely Restored*
> 
> The Stanley #72 Chamfer plane was on my list of Stanley specialty planes that I wanted to own. I like this plane from both a collector and a user view point. What I mean by that is its fun to use and its also fun to look at on the shelf.
> 
> This is the kind of plane in which I normally wouldn't restore to a like new condition. Had this one been in good condition and had nice patina I would have just sharpened the iron and left the rest alone. However this #72 did not have nice patina and it was in very poor condition. There was hardly any japanning left, it was rusted and the tote and knob had weathered to a grey like color and you couldn't even tell they were rosewood. I paid a premium price for this plane so I figured I would bring it back to looking like a premium plane.
> 
> Here are the before pictures of the plane..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I first took apart and soaked all the metal parts in EvapoRust for a few hours. After that I sanded down the area to be painted, hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned surface to be painted. After the paint dried I polished up the unpainted metal using wet/dry sandpaper. I stopped at 800 grit. I had to do some pretty heavy sanding to the tote and knob in order to get rid of the layer of weathered wood. I finished the wood with Bullseye Shellac Clear.
> 
> Here is the plane after…
> 
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> 
> !https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/lz6u6ee.jpg
> 
> !
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first thoughts on using this plane-
> 
> I have only had the chance so far to test the plane out on a few boards. In order to give it a real review I will have to have more time with it. On my first test piece things did not go well. The front end of the plane is adjustable, you loosen the star shaped knob on the back and you can lift or lower the front. The position of the front end determines the depth of the chamfer. On my first trial run with the plane I had the depth set to deep and I didn't really get a nice looking chamfer. I basically just hogged off the edge of the board. I re adjusted the front end and tried again on a new piece. Adjusting the front made a huge difference, I got a much nicer chamfer on my 2nd attempt. For the third board I adjusted the front yet again and planed an even smaller chamfer. I tried taking photos of these boards but I was using light color wood and due to the lights in my shop and camera quality I couldn't quite capture the chamfer the way I wanted. I will have to use a darker wood and try and get pictures to post in a later update.
> 
> After figuring out the depth adjustment I ran into another problem. I was having a hard time both starting and ending the chamfer. Starting the chamfer from the end of the board was tough so I found it best to start the cut an inch or so from the edge, once chamfer is established I found it easiest to just turn plane around and plane off that first inch from the other direction. The other issue was finishing the cut at the other end of the board. Of coarse if your doing a stopped chamfer this would not be a problem but if your going all the way to the end I found you have to make sure to keep good pressure on the back of the plane. On the first and 2nd test pieces I was not keeping enough down pressure on the back so when I reached the end the cutter would dig down making a deeper cut at the end. Both of these are just minor user issues that will just take me some time to master.
> 
> Is this a handy user plane to have?
> 
> I think this plane is great for times where you need to cut long straight perfect chamfers. For smaller projects I will probably stick with my block plane but if I want to bevel the edge of a table or cut chamfers on casework I will reach for the #72. I will have to spend some time with it in order to give it a real review but thats just my early thoughts.


Great job Dan, it turned out real nice. Hopefully you will master it soon. Thanks for posting.


----------



## SamuelP

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #72 Chamfer Plane... Completely Restored*
> 
> The Stanley #72 Chamfer plane was on my list of Stanley specialty planes that I wanted to own. I like this plane from both a collector and a user view point. What I mean by that is its fun to use and its also fun to look at on the shelf.
> 
> This is the kind of plane in which I normally wouldn't restore to a like new condition. Had this one been in good condition and had nice patina I would have just sharpened the iron and left the rest alone. However this #72 did not have nice patina and it was in very poor condition. There was hardly any japanning left, it was rusted and the tote and knob had weathered to a grey like color and you couldn't even tell they were rosewood. I paid a premium price for this plane so I figured I would bring it back to looking like a premium plane.
> 
> Here are the before pictures of the plane..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I first took apart and soaked all the metal parts in EvapoRust for a few hours. After that I sanded down the area to be painted, hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned surface to be painted. After the paint dried I polished up the unpainted metal using wet/dry sandpaper. I stopped at 800 grit. I had to do some pretty heavy sanding to the tote and knob in order to get rid of the layer of weathered wood. I finished the wood with Bullseye Shellac Clear.
> 
> Here is the plane after…
> 
> 
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> 
> !https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/lz6u6ee.jpg
> 
> !
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first thoughts on using this plane-
> 
> I have only had the chance so far to test the plane out on a few boards. In order to give it a real review I will have to have more time with it. On my first test piece things did not go well. The front end of the plane is adjustable, you loosen the star shaped knob on the back and you can lift or lower the front. The position of the front end determines the depth of the chamfer. On my first trial run with the plane I had the depth set to deep and I didn't really get a nice looking chamfer. I basically just hogged off the edge of the board. I re adjusted the front end and tried again on a new piece. Adjusting the front made a huge difference, I got a much nicer chamfer on my 2nd attempt. For the third board I adjusted the front yet again and planed an even smaller chamfer. I tried taking photos of these boards but I was using light color wood and due to the lights in my shop and camera quality I couldn't quite capture the chamfer the way I wanted. I will have to use a darker wood and try and get pictures to post in a later update.
> 
> After figuring out the depth adjustment I ran into another problem. I was having a hard time both starting and ending the chamfer. Starting the chamfer from the end of the board was tough so I found it best to start the cut an inch or so from the edge, once chamfer is established I found it easiest to just turn plane around and plane off that first inch from the other direction. The other issue was finishing the cut at the other end of the board. Of coarse if your doing a stopped chamfer this would not be a problem but if your going all the way to the end I found you have to make sure to keep good pressure on the back of the plane. On the first and 2nd test pieces I was not keeping enough down pressure on the back so when I reached the end the cutter would dig down making a deeper cut at the end. Both of these are just minor user issues that will just take me some time to master.
> 
> Is this a handy user plane to have?
> 
> I think this plane is great for times where you need to cut long straight perfect chamfers. For smaller projects I will probably stick with my block plane but if I want to bevel the edge of a table or cut chamfers on casework I will reach for the #72. I will have to spend some time with it in order to give it a real review but thats just my early thoughts.


Great Restore once again Dan, Thank you.


----------



## Big_Eddy

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #72 Chamfer Plane... Completely Restored*
> 
> The Stanley #72 Chamfer plane was on my list of Stanley specialty planes that I wanted to own. I like this plane from both a collector and a user view point. What I mean by that is its fun to use and its also fun to look at on the shelf.
> 
> This is the kind of plane in which I normally wouldn't restore to a like new condition. Had this one been in good condition and had nice patina I would have just sharpened the iron and left the rest alone. However this #72 did not have nice patina and it was in very poor condition. There was hardly any japanning left, it was rusted and the tote and knob had weathered to a grey like color and you couldn't even tell they were rosewood. I paid a premium price for this plane so I figured I would bring it back to looking like a premium plane.
> 
> Here are the before pictures of the plane..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I first took apart and soaked all the metal parts in EvapoRust for a few hours. After that I sanded down the area to be painted, hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned surface to be painted. After the paint dried I polished up the unpainted metal using wet/dry sandpaper. I stopped at 800 grit. I had to do some pretty heavy sanding to the tote and knob in order to get rid of the layer of weathered wood. I finished the wood with Bullseye Shellac Clear.
> 
> Here is the plane after…
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> !https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/lz6u6ee.jpg
> 
> !
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first thoughts on using this plane-
> 
> I have only had the chance so far to test the plane out on a few boards. In order to give it a real review I will have to have more time with it. On my first test piece things did not go well. The front end of the plane is adjustable, you loosen the star shaped knob on the back and you can lift or lower the front. The position of the front end determines the depth of the chamfer. On my first trial run with the plane I had the depth set to deep and I didn't really get a nice looking chamfer. I basically just hogged off the edge of the board. I re adjusted the front end and tried again on a new piece. Adjusting the front made a huge difference, I got a much nicer chamfer on my 2nd attempt. For the third board I adjusted the front yet again and planed an even smaller chamfer. I tried taking photos of these boards but I was using light color wood and due to the lights in my shop and camera quality I couldn't quite capture the chamfer the way I wanted. I will have to use a darker wood and try and get pictures to post in a later update.
> 
> After figuring out the depth adjustment I ran into another problem. I was having a hard time both starting and ending the chamfer. Starting the chamfer from the end of the board was tough so I found it best to start the cut an inch or so from the edge, once chamfer is established I found it easiest to just turn plane around and plane off that first inch from the other direction. The other issue was finishing the cut at the other end of the board. Of coarse if your doing a stopped chamfer this would not be a problem but if your going all the way to the end I found you have to make sure to keep good pressure on the back of the plane. On the first and 2nd test pieces I was not keeping enough down pressure on the back so when I reached the end the cutter would dig down making a deeper cut at the end. Both of these are just minor user issues that will just take me some time to master.
> 
> Is this a handy user plane to have?
> 
> I think this plane is great for times where you need to cut long straight perfect chamfers. For smaller projects I will probably stick with my block plane but if I want to bevel the edge of a table or cut chamfers on casework I will reach for the #72. I will have to spend some time with it in order to give it a real review but thats just my early thoughts.


Your turning into quite a master at this looks awesome Hope it works as well.


----------



## donwilwol

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #72 Chamfer Plane... Completely Restored*
> 
> The Stanley #72 Chamfer plane was on my list of Stanley specialty planes that I wanted to own. I like this plane from both a collector and a user view point. What I mean by that is its fun to use and its also fun to look at on the shelf.
> 
> This is the kind of plane in which I normally wouldn't restore to a like new condition. Had this one been in good condition and had nice patina I would have just sharpened the iron and left the rest alone. However this #72 did not have nice patina and it was in very poor condition. There was hardly any japanning left, it was rusted and the tote and knob had weathered to a grey like color and you couldn't even tell they were rosewood. I paid a premium price for this plane so I figured I would bring it back to looking like a premium plane.
> 
> Here are the before pictures of the plane..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I first took apart and soaked all the metal parts in EvapoRust for a few hours. After that I sanded down the area to be painted, hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned surface to be painted. After the paint dried I polished up the unpainted metal using wet/dry sandpaper. I stopped at 800 grit. I had to do some pretty heavy sanding to the tote and knob in order to get rid of the layer of weathered wood. I finished the wood with Bullseye Shellac Clear.
> 
> Here is the plane after…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> !https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/lz6u6ee.jpg
> 
> !
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first thoughts on using this plane-
> 
> I have only had the chance so far to test the plane out on a few boards. In order to give it a real review I will have to have more time with it. On my first test piece things did not go well. The front end of the plane is adjustable, you loosen the star shaped knob on the back and you can lift or lower the front. The position of the front end determines the depth of the chamfer. On my first trial run with the plane I had the depth set to deep and I didn't really get a nice looking chamfer. I basically just hogged off the edge of the board. I re adjusted the front end and tried again on a new piece. Adjusting the front made a huge difference, I got a much nicer chamfer on my 2nd attempt. For the third board I adjusted the front yet again and planed an even smaller chamfer. I tried taking photos of these boards but I was using light color wood and due to the lights in my shop and camera quality I couldn't quite capture the chamfer the way I wanted. I will have to use a darker wood and try and get pictures to post in a later update.
> 
> After figuring out the depth adjustment I ran into another problem. I was having a hard time both starting and ending the chamfer. Starting the chamfer from the end of the board was tough so I found it best to start the cut an inch or so from the edge, once chamfer is established I found it easiest to just turn plane around and plane off that first inch from the other direction. The other issue was finishing the cut at the other end of the board. Of coarse if your doing a stopped chamfer this would not be a problem but if your going all the way to the end I found you have to make sure to keep good pressure on the back of the plane. On the first and 2nd test pieces I was not keeping enough down pressure on the back so when I reached the end the cutter would dig down making a deeper cut at the end. Both of these are just minor user issues that will just take me some time to master.
> 
> Is this a handy user plane to have?
> 
> I think this plane is great for times where you need to cut long straight perfect chamfers. For smaller projects I will probably stick with my block plane but if I want to bevel the edge of a table or cut chamfers on casework I will reach for the #72. I will have to spend some time with it in order to give it a real review but thats just my early thoughts.


I'm a bit envious Dan. Great restore. I've always thought the 72 would be a fun plane to own.


----------



## BrandonW

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #72 Chamfer Plane... Completely Restored*
> 
> The Stanley #72 Chamfer plane was on my list of Stanley specialty planes that I wanted to own. I like this plane from both a collector and a user view point. What I mean by that is its fun to use and its also fun to look at on the shelf.
> 
> This is the kind of plane in which I normally wouldn't restore to a like new condition. Had this one been in good condition and had nice patina I would have just sharpened the iron and left the rest alone. However this #72 did not have nice patina and it was in very poor condition. There was hardly any japanning left, it was rusted and the tote and knob had weathered to a grey like color and you couldn't even tell they were rosewood. I paid a premium price for this plane so I figured I would bring it back to looking like a premium plane.
> 
> Here are the before pictures of the plane..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I first took apart and soaked all the metal parts in EvapoRust for a few hours. After that I sanded down the area to be painted, hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned surface to be painted. After the paint dried I polished up the unpainted metal using wet/dry sandpaper. I stopped at 800 grit. I had to do some pretty heavy sanding to the tote and knob in order to get rid of the layer of weathered wood. I finished the wood with Bullseye Shellac Clear.
> 
> Here is the plane after…
> 
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> 
> !https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/lz6u6ee.jpg
> 
> !
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first thoughts on using this plane-
> 
> I have only had the chance so far to test the plane out on a few boards. In order to give it a real review I will have to have more time with it. On my first test piece things did not go well. The front end of the plane is adjustable, you loosen the star shaped knob on the back and you can lift or lower the front. The position of the front end determines the depth of the chamfer. On my first trial run with the plane I had the depth set to deep and I didn't really get a nice looking chamfer. I basically just hogged off the edge of the board. I re adjusted the front end and tried again on a new piece. Adjusting the front made a huge difference, I got a much nicer chamfer on my 2nd attempt. For the third board I adjusted the front yet again and planed an even smaller chamfer. I tried taking photos of these boards but I was using light color wood and due to the lights in my shop and camera quality I couldn't quite capture the chamfer the way I wanted. I will have to use a darker wood and try and get pictures to post in a later update.
> 
> After figuring out the depth adjustment I ran into another problem. I was having a hard time both starting and ending the chamfer. Starting the chamfer from the end of the board was tough so I found it best to start the cut an inch or so from the edge, once chamfer is established I found it easiest to just turn plane around and plane off that first inch from the other direction. The other issue was finishing the cut at the other end of the board. Of coarse if your doing a stopped chamfer this would not be a problem but if your going all the way to the end I found you have to make sure to keep good pressure on the back of the plane. On the first and 2nd test pieces I was not keeping enough down pressure on the back so when I reached the end the cutter would dig down making a deeper cut at the end. Both of these are just minor user issues that will just take me some time to master.
> 
> Is this a handy user plane to have?
> 
> I think this plane is great for times where you need to cut long straight perfect chamfers. For smaller projects I will probably stick with my block plane but if I want to bevel the edge of a table or cut chamfers on casework I will reach for the #72. I will have to spend some time with it in order to give it a real review but thats just my early thoughts.


Great post, Dan. That's quite an awesome plane. Is the blade interchangeable with other Stanleys?


----------



## Brit

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #72 Chamfer Plane... Completely Restored*
> 
> The Stanley #72 Chamfer plane was on my list of Stanley specialty planes that I wanted to own. I like this plane from both a collector and a user view point. What I mean by that is its fun to use and its also fun to look at on the shelf.
> 
> This is the kind of plane in which I normally wouldn't restore to a like new condition. Had this one been in good condition and had nice patina I would have just sharpened the iron and left the rest alone. However this #72 did not have nice patina and it was in very poor condition. There was hardly any japanning left, it was rusted and the tote and knob had weathered to a grey like color and you couldn't even tell they were rosewood. I paid a premium price for this plane so I figured I would bring it back to looking like a premium plane.
> 
> Here are the before pictures of the plane..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I first took apart and soaked all the metal parts in EvapoRust for a few hours. After that I sanded down the area to be painted, hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned surface to be painted. After the paint dried I polished up the unpainted metal using wet/dry sandpaper. I stopped at 800 grit. I had to do some pretty heavy sanding to the tote and knob in order to get rid of the layer of weathered wood. I finished the wood with Bullseye Shellac Clear.
> 
> Here is the plane after…
> 
> 
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> 
> !https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/lz6u6ee.jpg
> 
> !
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first thoughts on using this plane-
> 
> I have only had the chance so far to test the plane out on a few boards. In order to give it a real review I will have to have more time with it. On my first test piece things did not go well. The front end of the plane is adjustable, you loosen the star shaped knob on the back and you can lift or lower the front. The position of the front end determines the depth of the chamfer. On my first trial run with the plane I had the depth set to deep and I didn't really get a nice looking chamfer. I basically just hogged off the edge of the board. I re adjusted the front end and tried again on a new piece. Adjusting the front made a huge difference, I got a much nicer chamfer on my 2nd attempt. For the third board I adjusted the front yet again and planed an even smaller chamfer. I tried taking photos of these boards but I was using light color wood and due to the lights in my shop and camera quality I couldn't quite capture the chamfer the way I wanted. I will have to use a darker wood and try and get pictures to post in a later update.
> 
> After figuring out the depth adjustment I ran into another problem. I was having a hard time both starting and ending the chamfer. Starting the chamfer from the end of the board was tough so I found it best to start the cut an inch or so from the edge, once chamfer is established I found it easiest to just turn plane around and plane off that first inch from the other direction. The other issue was finishing the cut at the other end of the board. Of coarse if your doing a stopped chamfer this would not be a problem but if your going all the way to the end I found you have to make sure to keep good pressure on the back of the plane. On the first and 2nd test pieces I was not keeping enough down pressure on the back so when I reached the end the cutter would dig down making a deeper cut at the end. Both of these are just minor user issues that will just take me some time to master.
> 
> Is this a handy user plane to have?
> 
> I think this plane is great for times where you need to cut long straight perfect chamfers. For smaller projects I will probably stick with my block plane but if I want to bevel the edge of a table or cut chamfers on casework I will reach for the #72. I will have to spend some time with it in order to give it a real review but thats just my early thoughts.


That's a beauty Dan and a nice plane to have. I have a wooden chamfer plane waiting for restoration when I've got time so we'll have to compare chamfers once I get it done.


----------



## Bertha

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #72 Chamfer Plane... Completely Restored*
> 
> The Stanley #72 Chamfer plane was on my list of Stanley specialty planes that I wanted to own. I like this plane from both a collector and a user view point. What I mean by that is its fun to use and its also fun to look at on the shelf.
> 
> This is the kind of plane in which I normally wouldn't restore to a like new condition. Had this one been in good condition and had nice patina I would have just sharpened the iron and left the rest alone. However this #72 did not have nice patina and it was in very poor condition. There was hardly any japanning left, it was rusted and the tote and knob had weathered to a grey like color and you couldn't even tell they were rosewood. I paid a premium price for this plane so I figured I would bring it back to looking like a premium plane.
> 
> Here are the before pictures of the plane..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I first took apart and soaked all the metal parts in EvapoRust for a few hours. After that I sanded down the area to be painted, hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned surface to be painted. After the paint dried I polished up the unpainted metal using wet/dry sandpaper. I stopped at 800 grit. I had to do some pretty heavy sanding to the tote and knob in order to get rid of the layer of weathered wood. I finished the wood with Bullseye Shellac Clear.
> 
> Here is the plane after…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> !https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/lz6u6ee.jpg
> 
> !
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first thoughts on using this plane-
> 
> I have only had the chance so far to test the plane out on a few boards. In order to give it a real review I will have to have more time with it. On my first test piece things did not go well. The front end of the plane is adjustable, you loosen the star shaped knob on the back and you can lift or lower the front. The position of the front end determines the depth of the chamfer. On my first trial run with the plane I had the depth set to deep and I didn't really get a nice looking chamfer. I basically just hogged off the edge of the board. I re adjusted the front end and tried again on a new piece. Adjusting the front made a huge difference, I got a much nicer chamfer on my 2nd attempt. For the third board I adjusted the front yet again and planed an even smaller chamfer. I tried taking photos of these boards but I was using light color wood and due to the lights in my shop and camera quality I couldn't quite capture the chamfer the way I wanted. I will have to use a darker wood and try and get pictures to post in a later update.
> 
> After figuring out the depth adjustment I ran into another problem. I was having a hard time both starting and ending the chamfer. Starting the chamfer from the end of the board was tough so I found it best to start the cut an inch or so from the edge, once chamfer is established I found it easiest to just turn plane around and plane off that first inch from the other direction. The other issue was finishing the cut at the other end of the board. Of coarse if your doing a stopped chamfer this would not be a problem but if your going all the way to the end I found you have to make sure to keep good pressure on the back of the plane. On the first and 2nd test pieces I was not keeping enough down pressure on the back so when I reached the end the cutter would dig down making a deeper cut at the end. Both of these are just minor user issues that will just take me some time to master.
> 
> Is this a handy user plane to have?
> 
> I think this plane is great for times where you need to cut long straight perfect chamfers. For smaller projects I will probably stick with my block plane but if I want to bevel the edge of a table or cut chamfers on casework I will reach for the #72. I will have to spend some time with it in order to give it a real review but thats just my early thoughts.


Awesome!


----------



## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #72 Chamfer Plane... Completely Restored*
> 
> The Stanley #72 Chamfer plane was on my list of Stanley specialty planes that I wanted to own. I like this plane from both a collector and a user view point. What I mean by that is its fun to use and its also fun to look at on the shelf.
> 
> This is the kind of plane in which I normally wouldn't restore to a like new condition. Had this one been in good condition and had nice patina I would have just sharpened the iron and left the rest alone. However this #72 did not have nice patina and it was in very poor condition. There was hardly any japanning left, it was rusted and the tote and knob had weathered to a grey like color and you couldn't even tell they were rosewood. I paid a premium price for this plane so I figured I would bring it back to looking like a premium plane.
> 
> Here are the before pictures of the plane..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I first took apart and soaked all the metal parts in EvapoRust for a few hours. After that I sanded down the area to be painted, hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned surface to be painted. After the paint dried I polished up the unpainted metal using wet/dry sandpaper. I stopped at 800 grit. I had to do some pretty heavy sanding to the tote and knob in order to get rid of the layer of weathered wood. I finished the wood with Bullseye Shellac Clear.
> 
> Here is the plane after…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> !https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/lz6u6ee.jpg
> 
> !
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first thoughts on using this plane-
> 
> I have only had the chance so far to test the plane out on a few boards. In order to give it a real review I will have to have more time with it. On my first test piece things did not go well. The front end of the plane is adjustable, you loosen the star shaped knob on the back and you can lift or lower the front. The position of the front end determines the depth of the chamfer. On my first trial run with the plane I had the depth set to deep and I didn't really get a nice looking chamfer. I basically just hogged off the edge of the board. I re adjusted the front end and tried again on a new piece. Adjusting the front made a huge difference, I got a much nicer chamfer on my 2nd attempt. For the third board I adjusted the front yet again and planed an even smaller chamfer. I tried taking photos of these boards but I was using light color wood and due to the lights in my shop and camera quality I couldn't quite capture the chamfer the way I wanted. I will have to use a darker wood and try and get pictures to post in a later update.
> 
> After figuring out the depth adjustment I ran into another problem. I was having a hard time both starting and ending the chamfer. Starting the chamfer from the end of the board was tough so I found it best to start the cut an inch or so from the edge, once chamfer is established I found it easiest to just turn plane around and plane off that first inch from the other direction. The other issue was finishing the cut at the other end of the board. Of coarse if your doing a stopped chamfer this would not be a problem but if your going all the way to the end I found you have to make sure to keep good pressure on the back of the plane. On the first and 2nd test pieces I was not keeping enough down pressure on the back so when I reached the end the cutter would dig down making a deeper cut at the end. Both of these are just minor user issues that will just take me some time to master.
> 
> Is this a handy user plane to have?
> 
> I think this plane is great for times where you need to cut long straight perfect chamfers. For smaller projects I will probably stick with my block plane but if I want to bevel the edge of a table or cut chamfers on casework I will reach for the #72. I will have to spend some time with it in order to give it a real review but thats just my early thoughts.


Brandon, good question, the iron that I got with the plane looks to me like its the original iron. Its unique to all the other Stanley irons I have seen. I can use other irons in the plane though. As long as the iron fits and has the slot for the lever cap screw it would work in this plane.

Brit, I made my own wood chamfer plane a while back. The one I made actually works really well, I have used it a lot. It just lacks a depth adjustment.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #72 Chamfer Plane... Completely Restored*
> 
> The Stanley #72 Chamfer plane was on my list of Stanley specialty planes that I wanted to own. I like this plane from both a collector and a user view point. What I mean by that is its fun to use and its also fun to look at on the shelf.
> 
> This is the kind of plane in which I normally wouldn't restore to a like new condition. Had this one been in good condition and had nice patina I would have just sharpened the iron and left the rest alone. However this #72 did not have nice patina and it was in very poor condition. There was hardly any japanning left, it was rusted and the tote and knob had weathered to a grey like color and you couldn't even tell they were rosewood. I paid a premium price for this plane so I figured I would bring it back to looking like a premium plane.
> 
> Here are the before pictures of the plane..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I first took apart and soaked all the metal parts in EvapoRust for a few hours. After that I sanded down the area to be painted, hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned surface to be painted. After the paint dried I polished up the unpainted metal using wet/dry sandpaper. I stopped at 800 grit. I had to do some pretty heavy sanding to the tote and knob in order to get rid of the layer of weathered wood. I finished the wood with Bullseye Shellac Clear.
> 
> Here is the plane after…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> !https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/lz6u6ee.jpg
> 
> !
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first thoughts on using this plane-
> 
> I have only had the chance so far to test the plane out on a few boards. In order to give it a real review I will have to have more time with it. On my first test piece things did not go well. The front end of the plane is adjustable, you loosen the star shaped knob on the back and you can lift or lower the front. The position of the front end determines the depth of the chamfer. On my first trial run with the plane I had the depth set to deep and I didn't really get a nice looking chamfer. I basically just hogged off the edge of the board. I re adjusted the front end and tried again on a new piece. Adjusting the front made a huge difference, I got a much nicer chamfer on my 2nd attempt. For the third board I adjusted the front yet again and planed an even smaller chamfer. I tried taking photos of these boards but I was using light color wood and due to the lights in my shop and camera quality I couldn't quite capture the chamfer the way I wanted. I will have to use a darker wood and try and get pictures to post in a later update.
> 
> After figuring out the depth adjustment I ran into another problem. I was having a hard time both starting and ending the chamfer. Starting the chamfer from the end of the board was tough so I found it best to start the cut an inch or so from the edge, once chamfer is established I found it easiest to just turn plane around and plane off that first inch from the other direction. The other issue was finishing the cut at the other end of the board. Of coarse if your doing a stopped chamfer this would not be a problem but if your going all the way to the end I found you have to make sure to keep good pressure on the back of the plane. On the first and 2nd test pieces I was not keeping enough down pressure on the back so when I reached the end the cutter would dig down making a deeper cut at the end. Both of these are just minor user issues that will just take me some time to master.
> 
> Is this a handy user plane to have?
> 
> I think this plane is great for times where you need to cut long straight perfect chamfers. For smaller projects I will probably stick with my block plane but if I want to bevel the edge of a table or cut chamfers on casework I will reach for the #72. I will have to spend some time with it in order to give it a real review but thats just my early thoughts.


Dan, Love the Write-Up, Thanks! Felt like I was stepping through each of your first runs right with you, great description of your new experiences with this unique tool.

Any reason, on stopped chamfers, you wouldn't chisel the end point first, then use the #72 to get down to that finished point across the lenth of the work? Thought I read that somewhere, don't recall though. And I wonder because you suggested 'stopped chamfers aren't a problem.' Funny, cause I would have expecting running length wouldn't be a problem but stopped would.

Again, Congrats and Nice Job!


----------



## JGM0658

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #72 Chamfer Plane... Completely Restored*
> 
> The Stanley #72 Chamfer plane was on my list of Stanley specialty planes that I wanted to own. I like this plane from both a collector and a user view point. What I mean by that is its fun to use and its also fun to look at on the shelf.
> 
> This is the kind of plane in which I normally wouldn't restore to a like new condition. Had this one been in good condition and had nice patina I would have just sharpened the iron and left the rest alone. However this #72 did not have nice patina and it was in very poor condition. There was hardly any japanning left, it was rusted and the tote and knob had weathered to a grey like color and you couldn't even tell they were rosewood. I paid a premium price for this plane so I figured I would bring it back to looking like a premium plane.
> 
> Here are the before pictures of the plane..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I first took apart and soaked all the metal parts in EvapoRust for a few hours. After that I sanded down the area to be painted, hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned surface to be painted. After the paint dried I polished up the unpainted metal using wet/dry sandpaper. I stopped at 800 grit. I had to do some pretty heavy sanding to the tote and knob in order to get rid of the layer of weathered wood. I finished the wood with Bullseye Shellac Clear.
> 
> Here is the plane after…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/lz6u6ee.jpg
> 
> !
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first thoughts on using this plane-
> 
> I have only had the chance so far to test the plane out on a few boards. In order to give it a real review I will have to have more time with it. On my first test piece things did not go well. The front end of the plane is adjustable, you loosen the star shaped knob on the back and you can lift or lower the front. The position of the front end determines the depth of the chamfer. On my first trial run with the plane I had the depth set to deep and I didn't really get a nice looking chamfer. I basically just hogged off the edge of the board. I re adjusted the front end and tried again on a new piece. Adjusting the front made a huge difference, I got a much nicer chamfer on my 2nd attempt. For the third board I adjusted the front yet again and planed an even smaller chamfer. I tried taking photos of these boards but I was using light color wood and due to the lights in my shop and camera quality I couldn't quite capture the chamfer the way I wanted. I will have to use a darker wood and try and get pictures to post in a later update.
> 
> After figuring out the depth adjustment I ran into another problem. I was having a hard time both starting and ending the chamfer. Starting the chamfer from the end of the board was tough so I found it best to start the cut an inch or so from the edge, once chamfer is established I found it easiest to just turn plane around and plane off that first inch from the other direction. The other issue was finishing the cut at the other end of the board. Of coarse if your doing a stopped chamfer this would not be a problem but if your going all the way to the end I found you have to make sure to keep good pressure on the back of the plane. On the first and 2nd test pieces I was not keeping enough down pressure on the back so when I reached the end the cutter would dig down making a deeper cut at the end. Both of these are just minor user issues that will just take me some time to master.
> 
> Is this a handy user plane to have?
> 
> I think this plane is great for times where you need to cut long straight perfect chamfers. For smaller projects I will probably stick with my block plane but if I want to bevel the edge of a table or cut chamfers on casework I will reach for the #72. I will have to spend some time with it in order to give it a real review but thats just my early thoughts.


HOw did you do the japanning? Looks like you did a great job on it.


----------



## canadianchips

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #72 Chamfer Plane... Completely Restored*
> 
> The Stanley #72 Chamfer plane was on my list of Stanley specialty planes that I wanted to own. I like this plane from both a collector and a user view point. What I mean by that is its fun to use and its also fun to look at on the shelf.
> 
> This is the kind of plane in which I normally wouldn't restore to a like new condition. Had this one been in good condition and had nice patina I would have just sharpened the iron and left the rest alone. However this #72 did not have nice patina and it was in very poor condition. There was hardly any japanning left, it was rusted and the tote and knob had weathered to a grey like color and you couldn't even tell they were rosewood. I paid a premium price for this plane so I figured I would bring it back to looking like a premium plane.
> 
> Here are the before pictures of the plane..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I first took apart and soaked all the metal parts in EvapoRust for a few hours. After that I sanded down the area to be painted, hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned surface to be painted. After the paint dried I polished up the unpainted metal using wet/dry sandpaper. I stopped at 800 grit. I had to do some pretty heavy sanding to the tote and knob in order to get rid of the layer of weathered wood. I finished the wood with Bullseye Shellac Clear.
> 
> Here is the plane after…
> 
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> 
> !https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/lz6u6ee.jpg
> 
> !
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first thoughts on using this plane-
> 
> I have only had the chance so far to test the plane out on a few boards. In order to give it a real review I will have to have more time with it. On my first test piece things did not go well. The front end of the plane is adjustable, you loosen the star shaped knob on the back and you can lift or lower the front. The position of the front end determines the depth of the chamfer. On my first trial run with the plane I had the depth set to deep and I didn't really get a nice looking chamfer. I basically just hogged off the edge of the board. I re adjusted the front end and tried again on a new piece. Adjusting the front made a huge difference, I got a much nicer chamfer on my 2nd attempt. For the third board I adjusted the front yet again and planed an even smaller chamfer. I tried taking photos of these boards but I was using light color wood and due to the lights in my shop and camera quality I couldn't quite capture the chamfer the way I wanted. I will have to use a darker wood and try and get pictures to post in a later update.
> 
> After figuring out the depth adjustment I ran into another problem. I was having a hard time both starting and ending the chamfer. Starting the chamfer from the end of the board was tough so I found it best to start the cut an inch or so from the edge, once chamfer is established I found it easiest to just turn plane around and plane off that first inch from the other direction. The other issue was finishing the cut at the other end of the board. Of coarse if your doing a stopped chamfer this would not be a problem but if your going all the way to the end I found you have to make sure to keep good pressure on the back of the plane. On the first and 2nd test pieces I was not keeping enough down pressure on the back so when I reached the end the cutter would dig down making a deeper cut at the end. Both of these are just minor user issues that will just take me some time to master.
> 
> Is this a handy user plane to have?
> 
> I think this plane is great for times where you need to cut long straight perfect chamfers. For smaller projects I will probably stick with my block plane but if I want to bevel the edge of a table or cut chamfers on casework I will reach for the #72. I will have to spend some time with it in order to give it a real review but thats just my early thoughts.


Great Looking restore.
I think once you have one, you will use it more !


----------



## AnthonyReed

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #72 Chamfer Plane... Completely Restored*
> 
> The Stanley #72 Chamfer plane was on my list of Stanley specialty planes that I wanted to own. I like this plane from both a collector and a user view point. What I mean by that is its fun to use and its also fun to look at on the shelf.
> 
> This is the kind of plane in which I normally wouldn't restore to a like new condition. Had this one been in good condition and had nice patina I would have just sharpened the iron and left the rest alone. However this #72 did not have nice patina and it was in very poor condition. There was hardly any japanning left, it was rusted and the tote and knob had weathered to a grey like color and you couldn't even tell they were rosewood. I paid a premium price for this plane so I figured I would bring it back to looking like a premium plane.
> 
> Here are the before pictures of the plane..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I first took apart and soaked all the metal parts in EvapoRust for a few hours. After that I sanded down the area to be painted, hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned surface to be painted. After the paint dried I polished up the unpainted metal using wet/dry sandpaper. I stopped at 800 grit. I had to do some pretty heavy sanding to the tote and knob in order to get rid of the layer of weathered wood. I finished the wood with Bullseye Shellac Clear.
> 
> Here is the plane after…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> !https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/lz6u6ee.jpg
> 
> !
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first thoughts on using this plane-
> 
> I have only had the chance so far to test the plane out on a few boards. In order to give it a real review I will have to have more time with it. On my first test piece things did not go well. The front end of the plane is adjustable, you loosen the star shaped knob on the back and you can lift or lower the front. The position of the front end determines the depth of the chamfer. On my first trial run with the plane I had the depth set to deep and I didn't really get a nice looking chamfer. I basically just hogged off the edge of the board. I re adjusted the front end and tried again on a new piece. Adjusting the front made a huge difference, I got a much nicer chamfer on my 2nd attempt. For the third board I adjusted the front yet again and planed an even smaller chamfer. I tried taking photos of these boards but I was using light color wood and due to the lights in my shop and camera quality I couldn't quite capture the chamfer the way I wanted. I will have to use a darker wood and try and get pictures to post in a later update.
> 
> After figuring out the depth adjustment I ran into another problem. I was having a hard time both starting and ending the chamfer. Starting the chamfer from the end of the board was tough so I found it best to start the cut an inch or so from the edge, once chamfer is established I found it easiest to just turn plane around and plane off that first inch from the other direction. The other issue was finishing the cut at the other end of the board. Of coarse if your doing a stopped chamfer this would not be a problem but if your going all the way to the end I found you have to make sure to keep good pressure on the back of the plane. On the first and 2nd test pieces I was not keeping enough down pressure on the back so when I reached the end the cutter would dig down making a deeper cut at the end. Both of these are just minor user issues that will just take me some time to master.
> 
> Is this a handy user plane to have?
> 
> I think this plane is great for times where you need to cut long straight perfect chamfers. For smaller projects I will probably stick with my block plane but if I want to bevel the edge of a table or cut chamfers on casework I will reach for the #72. I will have to spend some time with it in order to give it a real review but thats just my early thoughts.


Nice. Thank you for the write up Dan, they are always a good read.


----------



## Kentuk55

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #72 Chamfer Plane... Completely Restored*
> 
> The Stanley #72 Chamfer plane was on my list of Stanley specialty planes that I wanted to own. I like this plane from both a collector and a user view point. What I mean by that is its fun to use and its also fun to look at on the shelf.
> 
> This is the kind of plane in which I normally wouldn't restore to a like new condition. Had this one been in good condition and had nice patina I would have just sharpened the iron and left the rest alone. However this #72 did not have nice patina and it was in very poor condition. There was hardly any japanning left, it was rusted and the tote and knob had weathered to a grey like color and you couldn't even tell they were rosewood. I paid a premium price for this plane so I figured I would bring it back to looking like a premium plane.
> 
> Here are the before pictures of the plane..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I first took apart and soaked all the metal parts in EvapoRust for a few hours. After that I sanded down the area to be painted, hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned surface to be painted. After the paint dried I polished up the unpainted metal using wet/dry sandpaper. I stopped at 800 grit. I had to do some pretty heavy sanding to the tote and knob in order to get rid of the layer of weathered wood. I finished the wood with Bullseye Shellac Clear.
> 
> Here is the plane after…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> !https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/lz6u6ee.jpg
> 
> !
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first thoughts on using this plane-
> 
> I have only had the chance so far to test the plane out on a few boards. In order to give it a real review I will have to have more time with it. On my first test piece things did not go well. The front end of the plane is adjustable, you loosen the star shaped knob on the back and you can lift or lower the front. The position of the front end determines the depth of the chamfer. On my first trial run with the plane I had the depth set to deep and I didn't really get a nice looking chamfer. I basically just hogged off the edge of the board. I re adjusted the front end and tried again on a new piece. Adjusting the front made a huge difference, I got a much nicer chamfer on my 2nd attempt. For the third board I adjusted the front yet again and planed an even smaller chamfer. I tried taking photos of these boards but I was using light color wood and due to the lights in my shop and camera quality I couldn't quite capture the chamfer the way I wanted. I will have to use a darker wood and try and get pictures to post in a later update.
> 
> After figuring out the depth adjustment I ran into another problem. I was having a hard time both starting and ending the chamfer. Starting the chamfer from the end of the board was tough so I found it best to start the cut an inch or so from the edge, once chamfer is established I found it easiest to just turn plane around and plane off that first inch from the other direction. The other issue was finishing the cut at the other end of the board. Of coarse if your doing a stopped chamfer this would not be a problem but if your going all the way to the end I found you have to make sure to keep good pressure on the back of the plane. On the first and 2nd test pieces I was not keeping enough down pressure on the back so when I reached the end the cutter would dig down making a deeper cut at the end. Both of these are just minor user issues that will just take me some time to master.
> 
> Is this a handy user plane to have?
> 
> I think this plane is great for times where you need to cut long straight perfect chamfers. For smaller projects I will probably stick with my block plane but if I want to bevel the edge of a table or cut chamfers on casework I will reach for the #72. I will have to spend some time with it in order to give it a real review but thats just my early thoughts.


really super nice restore


----------



## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #72 Chamfer Plane... Completely Restored*
> 
> The Stanley #72 Chamfer plane was on my list of Stanley specialty planes that I wanted to own. I like this plane from both a collector and a user view point. What I mean by that is its fun to use and its also fun to look at on the shelf.
> 
> This is the kind of plane in which I normally wouldn't restore to a like new condition. Had this one been in good condition and had nice patina I would have just sharpened the iron and left the rest alone. However this #72 did not have nice patina and it was in very poor condition. There was hardly any japanning left, it was rusted and the tote and knob had weathered to a grey like color and you couldn't even tell they were rosewood. I paid a premium price for this plane so I figured I would bring it back to looking like a premium plane.
> 
> Here are the before pictures of the plane..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I first took apart and soaked all the metal parts in EvapoRust for a few hours. After that I sanded down the area to be painted, hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned surface to be painted. After the paint dried I polished up the unpainted metal using wet/dry sandpaper. I stopped at 800 grit. I had to do some pretty heavy sanding to the tote and knob in order to get rid of the layer of weathered wood. I finished the wood with Bullseye Shellac Clear.
> 
> Here is the plane after…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> !https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/lz6u6ee.jpg
> 
> !
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first thoughts on using this plane-
> 
> I have only had the chance so far to test the plane out on a few boards. In order to give it a real review I will have to have more time with it. On my first test piece things did not go well. The front end of the plane is adjustable, you loosen the star shaped knob on the back and you can lift or lower the front. The position of the front end determines the depth of the chamfer. On my first trial run with the plane I had the depth set to deep and I didn't really get a nice looking chamfer. I basically just hogged off the edge of the board. I re adjusted the front end and tried again on a new piece. Adjusting the front made a huge difference, I got a much nicer chamfer on my 2nd attempt. For the third board I adjusted the front yet again and planed an even smaller chamfer. I tried taking photos of these boards but I was using light color wood and due to the lights in my shop and camera quality I couldn't quite capture the chamfer the way I wanted. I will have to use a darker wood and try and get pictures to post in a later update.
> 
> After figuring out the depth adjustment I ran into another problem. I was having a hard time both starting and ending the chamfer. Starting the chamfer from the end of the board was tough so I found it best to start the cut an inch or so from the edge, once chamfer is established I found it easiest to just turn plane around and plane off that first inch from the other direction. The other issue was finishing the cut at the other end of the board. Of coarse if your doing a stopped chamfer this would not be a problem but if your going all the way to the end I found you have to make sure to keep good pressure on the back of the plane. On the first and 2nd test pieces I was not keeping enough down pressure on the back so when I reached the end the cutter would dig down making a deeper cut at the end. Both of these are just minor user issues that will just take me some time to master.
> 
> Is this a handy user plane to have?
> 
> I think this plane is great for times where you need to cut long straight perfect chamfers. For smaller projects I will probably stick with my block plane but if I want to bevel the edge of a table or cut chamfers on casework I will reach for the #72. I will have to spend some time with it in order to give it a real review but thats just my early thoughts.


JGM- I painted it with Dupli-Color® Engine Enamel DUPDE1635 Ford Semi Gloss Black


----------



## Dennisgrosen

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #72 Chamfer Plane... Completely Restored*
> 
> The Stanley #72 Chamfer plane was on my list of Stanley specialty planes that I wanted to own. I like this plane from both a collector and a user view point. What I mean by that is its fun to use and its also fun to look at on the shelf.
> 
> This is the kind of plane in which I normally wouldn't restore to a like new condition. Had this one been in good condition and had nice patina I would have just sharpened the iron and left the rest alone. However this #72 did not have nice patina and it was in very poor condition. There was hardly any japanning left, it was rusted and the tote and knob had weathered to a grey like color and you couldn't even tell they were rosewood. I paid a premium price for this plane so I figured I would bring it back to looking like a premium plane.
> 
> Here are the before pictures of the plane..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I first took apart and soaked all the metal parts in EvapoRust for a few hours. After that I sanded down the area to be painted, hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned surface to be painted. After the paint dried I polished up the unpainted metal using wet/dry sandpaper. I stopped at 800 grit. I had to do some pretty heavy sanding to the tote and knob in order to get rid of the layer of weathered wood. I finished the wood with Bullseye Shellac Clear.
> 
> Here is the plane after…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> !https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/lz6u6ee.jpg
> 
> !
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first thoughts on using this plane-
> 
> I have only had the chance so far to test the plane out on a few boards. In order to give it a real review I will have to have more time with it. On my first test piece things did not go well. The front end of the plane is adjustable, you loosen the star shaped knob on the back and you can lift or lower the front. The position of the front end determines the depth of the chamfer. On my first trial run with the plane I had the depth set to deep and I didn't really get a nice looking chamfer. I basically just hogged off the edge of the board. I re adjusted the front end and tried again on a new piece. Adjusting the front made a huge difference, I got a much nicer chamfer on my 2nd attempt. For the third board I adjusted the front yet again and planed an even smaller chamfer. I tried taking photos of these boards but I was using light color wood and due to the lights in my shop and camera quality I couldn't quite capture the chamfer the way I wanted. I will have to use a darker wood and try and get pictures to post in a later update.
> 
> After figuring out the depth adjustment I ran into another problem. I was having a hard time both starting and ending the chamfer. Starting the chamfer from the end of the board was tough so I found it best to start the cut an inch or so from the edge, once chamfer is established I found it easiest to just turn plane around and plane off that first inch from the other direction. The other issue was finishing the cut at the other end of the board. Of coarse if your doing a stopped chamfer this would not be a problem but if your going all the way to the end I found you have to make sure to keep good pressure on the back of the plane. On the first and 2nd test pieces I was not keeping enough down pressure on the back so when I reached the end the cutter would dig down making a deeper cut at the end. Both of these are just minor user issues that will just take me some time to master.
> 
> Is this a handy user plane to have?
> 
> I think this plane is great for times where you need to cut long straight perfect chamfers. For smaller projects I will probably stick with my block plane but if I want to bevel the edge of a table or cut chamfers on casework I will reach for the #72. I will have to spend some time with it in order to give it a real review but thats just my early thoughts.


great restoring and blog Dan 
your woody doesn´t look too bad either 
thanks for sharing

take care
Dennis


----------



## choochoo

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #72 Chamfer Plane... Completely Restored*
> 
> The Stanley #72 Chamfer plane was on my list of Stanley specialty planes that I wanted to own. I like this plane from both a collector and a user view point. What I mean by that is its fun to use and its also fun to look at on the shelf.
> 
> This is the kind of plane in which I normally wouldn't restore to a like new condition. Had this one been in good condition and had nice patina I would have just sharpened the iron and left the rest alone. However this #72 did not have nice patina and it was in very poor condition. There was hardly any japanning left, it was rusted and the tote and knob had weathered to a grey like color and you couldn't even tell they were rosewood. I paid a premium price for this plane so I figured I would bring it back to looking like a premium plane.
> 
> Here are the before pictures of the plane..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I first took apart and soaked all the metal parts in EvapoRust for a few hours. After that I sanded down the area to be painted, hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned surface to be painted. After the paint dried I polished up the unpainted metal using wet/dry sandpaper. I stopped at 800 grit. I had to do some pretty heavy sanding to the tote and knob in order to get rid of the layer of weathered wood. I finished the wood with Bullseye Shellac Clear.
> 
> Here is the plane after…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/lz6u6ee.jpg
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first thoughts on using this plane-
> 
> I have only had the chance so far to test the plane out on a few boards. In order to give it a real review I will have to have more time with it. On my first test piece things did not go well. The front end of the plane is adjustable, you loosen the star shaped knob on the back and you can lift or lower the front. The position of the front end determines the depth of the chamfer. On my first trial run with the plane I had the depth set to deep and I didn't really get a nice looking chamfer. I basically just hogged off the edge of the board. I re adjusted the front end and tried again on a new piece. Adjusting the front made a huge difference, I got a much nicer chamfer on my 2nd attempt. For the third board I adjusted the front yet again and planed an even smaller chamfer. I tried taking photos of these boards but I was using light color wood and due to the lights in my shop and camera quality I couldn't quite capture the chamfer the way I wanted. I will have to use a darker wood and try and get pictures to post in a later update.
> 
> After figuring out the depth adjustment I ran into another problem. I was having a hard time both starting and ending the chamfer. Starting the chamfer from the end of the board was tough so I found it best to start the cut an inch or so from the edge, once chamfer is established I found it easiest to just turn plane around and plane off that first inch from the other direction. The other issue was finishing the cut at the other end of the board. Of coarse if your doing a stopped chamfer this would not be a problem but if your going all the way to the end I found you have to make sure to keep good pressure on the back of the plane. On the first and 2nd test pieces I was not keeping enough down pressure on the back so when I reached the end the cutter would dig down making a deeper cut at the end. Both of these are just minor user issues that will just take me some time to master.
> 
> Is this a handy user plane to have?
> 
> I think this plane is great for times where you need to cut long straight perfect chamfers. For smaller projects I will probably stick with my block plane but if I want to bevel the edge of a table or cut chamfers on casework I will reach for the #72. I will have to spend some time with it in order to give it a real review but thats just my early thoughts.


Dan that restore job is great! Wait till I show my son. He restores planes. Thanks so much for the write up!

Mike


----------



## Dwain

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #72 Chamfer Plane... Completely Restored*
> 
> The Stanley #72 Chamfer plane was on my list of Stanley specialty planes that I wanted to own. I like this plane from both a collector and a user view point. What I mean by that is its fun to use and its also fun to look at on the shelf.
> 
> This is the kind of plane in which I normally wouldn't restore to a like new condition. Had this one been in good condition and had nice patina I would have just sharpened the iron and left the rest alone. However this #72 did not have nice patina and it was in very poor condition. There was hardly any japanning left, it was rusted and the tote and knob had weathered to a grey like color and you couldn't even tell they were rosewood. I paid a premium price for this plane so I figured I would bring it back to looking like a premium plane.
> 
> Here are the before pictures of the plane..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I first took apart and soaked all the metal parts in EvapoRust for a few hours. After that I sanded down the area to be painted, hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned surface to be painted. After the paint dried I polished up the unpainted metal using wet/dry sandpaper. I stopped at 800 grit. I had to do some pretty heavy sanding to the tote and knob in order to get rid of the layer of weathered wood. I finished the wood with Bullseye Shellac Clear.
> 
> Here is the plane after…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/lz6u6ee.jpg
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first thoughts on using this plane-
> 
> I have only had the chance so far to test the plane out on a few boards. In order to give it a real review I will have to have more time with it. On my first test piece things did not go well. The front end of the plane is adjustable, you loosen the star shaped knob on the back and you can lift or lower the front. The position of the front end determines the depth of the chamfer. On my first trial run with the plane I had the depth set to deep and I didn't really get a nice looking chamfer. I basically just hogged off the edge of the board. I re adjusted the front end and tried again on a new piece. Adjusting the front made a huge difference, I got a much nicer chamfer on my 2nd attempt. For the third board I adjusted the front yet again and planed an even smaller chamfer. I tried taking photos of these boards but I was using light color wood and due to the lights in my shop and camera quality I couldn't quite capture the chamfer the way I wanted. I will have to use a darker wood and try and get pictures to post in a later update.
> 
> After figuring out the depth adjustment I ran into another problem. I was having a hard time both starting and ending the chamfer. Starting the chamfer from the end of the board was tough so I found it best to start the cut an inch or so from the edge, once chamfer is established I found it easiest to just turn plane around and plane off that first inch from the other direction. The other issue was finishing the cut at the other end of the board. Of coarse if your doing a stopped chamfer this would not be a problem but if your going all the way to the end I found you have to make sure to keep good pressure on the back of the plane. On the first and 2nd test pieces I was not keeping enough down pressure on the back so when I reached the end the cutter would dig down making a deeper cut at the end. Both of these are just minor user issues that will just take me some time to master.
> 
> Is this a handy user plane to have?
> 
> I think this plane is great for times where you need to cut long straight perfect chamfers. For smaller projects I will probably stick with my block plane but if I want to bevel the edge of a table or cut chamfers on casework I will reach for the #72. I will have to spend some time with it in order to give it a real review but thats just my early thoughts.


Dan, is that another ebay find? Where did you locate it?

Beautiful work!


----------



## Carli

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #72 Chamfer Plane... Completely Restored*
> 
> The Stanley #72 Chamfer plane was on my list of Stanley specialty planes that I wanted to own. I like this plane from both a collector and a user view point. What I mean by that is its fun to use and its also fun to look at on the shelf.
> 
> This is the kind of plane in which I normally wouldn't restore to a like new condition. Had this one been in good condition and had nice patina I would have just sharpened the iron and left the rest alone. However this #72 did not have nice patina and it was in very poor condition. There was hardly any japanning left, it was rusted and the tote and knob had weathered to a grey like color and you couldn't even tell they were rosewood. I paid a premium price for this plane so I figured I would bring it back to looking like a premium plane.
> 
> Here are the before pictures of the plane..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I first took apart and soaked all the metal parts in EvapoRust for a few hours. After that I sanded down the area to be painted, hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned surface to be painted. After the paint dried I polished up the unpainted metal using wet/dry sandpaper. I stopped at 800 grit. I had to do some pretty heavy sanding to the tote and knob in order to get rid of the layer of weathered wood. I finished the wood with Bullseye Shellac Clear.
> 
> Here is the plane after…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/lz6u6ee.jpg
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first thoughts on using this plane-
> 
> I have only had the chance so far to test the plane out on a few boards. In order to give it a real review I will have to have more time with it. On my first test piece things did not go well. The front end of the plane is adjustable, you loosen the star shaped knob on the back and you can lift or lower the front. The position of the front end determines the depth of the chamfer. On my first trial run with the plane I had the depth set to deep and I didn't really get a nice looking chamfer. I basically just hogged off the edge of the board. I re adjusted the front end and tried again on a new piece. Adjusting the front made a huge difference, I got a much nicer chamfer on my 2nd attempt. For the third board I adjusted the front yet again and planed an even smaller chamfer. I tried taking photos of these boards but I was using light color wood and due to the lights in my shop and camera quality I couldn't quite capture the chamfer the way I wanted. I will have to use a darker wood and try and get pictures to post in a later update.
> 
> After figuring out the depth adjustment I ran into another problem. I was having a hard time both starting and ending the chamfer. Starting the chamfer from the end of the board was tough so I found it best to start the cut an inch or so from the edge, once chamfer is established I found it easiest to just turn plane around and plane off that first inch from the other direction. The other issue was finishing the cut at the other end of the board. Of coarse if your doing a stopped chamfer this would not be a problem but if your going all the way to the end I found you have to make sure to keep good pressure on the back of the plane. On the first and 2nd test pieces I was not keeping enough down pressure on the back so when I reached the end the cutter would dig down making a deeper cut at the end. Both of these are just minor user issues that will just take me some time to master.
> 
> Is this a handy user plane to have?
> 
> I think this plane is great for times where you need to cut long straight perfect chamfers. For smaller projects I will probably stick with my block plane but if I want to bevel the edge of a table or cut chamfers on casework I will reach for the #72. I will have to spend some time with it in order to give it a real review but thats just my early thoughts.












Very nice to see how this plane should look.

My mother has one that she wants me to pass on and this is the first place I found.

Knowing nothing about planes other than what they do didn't help.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #72 Chamfer Plane... Completely Restored*
> 
> The Stanley #72 Chamfer plane was on my list of Stanley specialty planes that I wanted to own. I like this plane from both a collector and a user view point. What I mean by that is its fun to use and its also fun to look at on the shelf.
> 
> This is the kind of plane in which I normally wouldn't restore to a like new condition. Had this one been in good condition and had nice patina I would have just sharpened the iron and left the rest alone. However this #72 did not have nice patina and it was in very poor condition. There was hardly any japanning left, it was rusted and the tote and knob had weathered to a grey like color and you couldn't even tell they were rosewood. I paid a premium price for this plane so I figured I would bring it back to looking like a premium plane.
> 
> Here are the before pictures of the plane..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I first took apart and soaked all the metal parts in EvapoRust for a few hours. After that I sanded down the area to be painted, hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned surface to be painted. After the paint dried I polished up the unpainted metal using wet/dry sandpaper. I stopped at 800 grit. I had to do some pretty heavy sanding to the tote and knob in order to get rid of the layer of weathered wood. I finished the wood with Bullseye Shellac Clear.
> 
> Here is the plane after…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> !https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/lz6u6ee.jpg
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first thoughts on using this plane-
> 
> I have only had the chance so far to test the plane out on a few boards. In order to give it a real review I will have to have more time with it. On my first test piece things did not go well. The front end of the plane is adjustable, you loosen the star shaped knob on the back and you can lift or lower the front. The position of the front end determines the depth of the chamfer. On my first trial run with the plane I had the depth set to deep and I didn't really get a nice looking chamfer. I basically just hogged off the edge of the board. I re adjusted the front end and tried again on a new piece. Adjusting the front made a huge difference, I got a much nicer chamfer on my 2nd attempt. For the third board I adjusted the front yet again and planed an even smaller chamfer. I tried taking photos of these boards but I was using light color wood and due to the lights in my shop and camera quality I couldn't quite capture the chamfer the way I wanted. I will have to use a darker wood and try and get pictures to post in a later update.
> 
> After figuring out the depth adjustment I ran into another problem. I was having a hard time both starting and ending the chamfer. Starting the chamfer from the end of the board was tough so I found it best to start the cut an inch or so from the edge, once chamfer is established I found it easiest to just turn plane around and plane off that first inch from the other direction. The other issue was finishing the cut at the other end of the board. Of coarse if your doing a stopped chamfer this would not be a problem but if your going all the way to the end I found you have to make sure to keep good pressure on the back of the plane. On the first and 2nd test pieces I was not keeping enough down pressure on the back so when I reached the end the cutter would dig down making a deeper cut at the end. Both of these are just minor user issues that will just take me some time to master.
> 
> Is this a handy user plane to have?
> 
> I think this plane is great for times where you need to cut long straight perfect chamfers. For smaller projects I will probably stick with my block plane but if I want to bevel the edge of a table or cut chamfers on casework I will reach for the #72. I will have to spend some time with it in order to give it a real review but thats just my early thoughts.


Looks like a cleanup is in order, Carli! I'd like to try a #72 one day, haven't seen one in person.


----------



## Carli

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #72 Chamfer Plane... Completely Restored*
> 
> The Stanley #72 Chamfer plane was on my list of Stanley specialty planes that I wanted to own. I like this plane from both a collector and a user view point. What I mean by that is its fun to use and its also fun to look at on the shelf.
> 
> This is the kind of plane in which I normally wouldn't restore to a like new condition. Had this one been in good condition and had nice patina I would have just sharpened the iron and left the rest alone. However this #72 did not have nice patina and it was in very poor condition. There was hardly any japanning left, it was rusted and the tote and knob had weathered to a grey like color and you couldn't even tell they were rosewood. I paid a premium price for this plane so I figured I would bring it back to looking like a premium plane.
> 
> Here are the before pictures of the plane..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I first took apart and soaked all the metal parts in EvapoRust for a few hours. After that I sanded down the area to be painted, hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned surface to be painted. After the paint dried I polished up the unpainted metal using wet/dry sandpaper. I stopped at 800 grit. I had to do some pretty heavy sanding to the tote and knob in order to get rid of the layer of weathered wood. I finished the wood with Bullseye Shellac Clear.
> 
> Here is the plane after…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> !https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/lz6u6ee.jpg
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first thoughts on using this plane-
> 
> I have only had the chance so far to test the plane out on a few boards. In order to give it a real review I will have to have more time with it. On my first test piece things did not go well. The front end of the plane is adjustable, you loosen the star shaped knob on the back and you can lift or lower the front. The position of the front end determines the depth of the chamfer. On my first trial run with the plane I had the depth set to deep and I didn't really get a nice looking chamfer. I basically just hogged off the edge of the board. I re adjusted the front end and tried again on a new piece. Adjusting the front made a huge difference, I got a much nicer chamfer on my 2nd attempt. For the third board I adjusted the front yet again and planed an even smaller chamfer. I tried taking photos of these boards but I was using light color wood and due to the lights in my shop and camera quality I couldn't quite capture the chamfer the way I wanted. I will have to use a darker wood and try and get pictures to post in a later update.
> 
> After figuring out the depth adjustment I ran into another problem. I was having a hard time both starting and ending the chamfer. Starting the chamfer from the end of the board was tough so I found it best to start the cut an inch or so from the edge, once chamfer is established I found it easiest to just turn plane around and plane off that first inch from the other direction. The other issue was finishing the cut at the other end of the board. Of coarse if your doing a stopped chamfer this would not be a problem but if your going all the way to the end I found you have to make sure to keep good pressure on the back of the plane. On the first and 2nd test pieces I was not keeping enough down pressure on the back so when I reached the end the cutter would dig down making a deeper cut at the end. Both of these are just minor user issues that will just take me some time to master.
> 
> Is this a handy user plane to have?
> 
> I think this plane is great for times where you need to cut long straight perfect chamfers. For smaller projects I will probably stick with my block plane but if I want to bevel the edge of a table or cut chamfers on casework I will reach for the #72. I will have to spend some time with it in order to give it a real review but thats just my early thoughts.


Getting good info helps…... Going to try my hand at restoring….. Will share pictures when done or in process.

Thanks for the comment Smitty


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #72 Chamfer Plane... Completely Restored*
> 
> The Stanley #72 Chamfer plane was on my list of Stanley specialty planes that I wanted to own. I like this plane from both a collector and a user view point. What I mean by that is its fun to use and its also fun to look at on the shelf.
> 
> This is the kind of plane in which I normally wouldn't restore to a like new condition. Had this one been in good condition and had nice patina I would have just sharpened the iron and left the rest alone. However this #72 did not have nice patina and it was in very poor condition. There was hardly any japanning left, it was rusted and the tote and knob had weathered to a grey like color and you couldn't even tell they were rosewood. I paid a premium price for this plane so I figured I would bring it back to looking like a premium plane.
> 
> Here are the before pictures of the plane..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I first took apart and soaked all the metal parts in EvapoRust for a few hours. After that I sanded down the area to be painted, hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned surface to be painted. After the paint dried I polished up the unpainted metal using wet/dry sandpaper. I stopped at 800 grit. I had to do some pretty heavy sanding to the tote and knob in order to get rid of the layer of weathered wood. I finished the wood with Bullseye Shellac Clear.
> 
> Here is the plane after…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/lz6u6ee.jpg
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first thoughts on using this plane-
> 
> I have only had the chance so far to test the plane out on a few boards. In order to give it a real review I will have to have more time with it. On my first test piece things did not go well. The front end of the plane is adjustable, you loosen the star shaped knob on the back and you can lift or lower the front. The position of the front end determines the depth of the chamfer. On my first trial run with the plane I had the depth set to deep and I didn't really get a nice looking chamfer. I basically just hogged off the edge of the board. I re adjusted the front end and tried again on a new piece. Adjusting the front made a huge difference, I got a much nicer chamfer on my 2nd attempt. For the third board I adjusted the front yet again and planed an even smaller chamfer. I tried taking photos of these boards but I was using light color wood and due to the lights in my shop and camera quality I couldn't quite capture the chamfer the way I wanted. I will have to use a darker wood and try and get pictures to post in a later update.
> 
> After figuring out the depth adjustment I ran into another problem. I was having a hard time both starting and ending the chamfer. Starting the chamfer from the end of the board was tough so I found it best to start the cut an inch or so from the edge, once chamfer is established I found it easiest to just turn plane around and plane off that first inch from the other direction. The other issue was finishing the cut at the other end of the board. Of coarse if your doing a stopped chamfer this would not be a problem but if your going all the way to the end I found you have to make sure to keep good pressure on the back of the plane. On the first and 2nd test pieces I was not keeping enough down pressure on the back so when I reached the end the cutter would dig down making a deeper cut at the end. Both of these are just minor user issues that will just take me some time to master.
> 
> Is this a handy user plane to have?
> 
> I think this plane is great for times where you need to cut long straight perfect chamfers. For smaller projects I will probably stick with my block plane but if I want to bevel the edge of a table or cut chamfers on casework I will reach for the #72. I will have to spend some time with it in order to give it a real review but thats just my early thoughts.


Start a blog series here on LJs if you'd like! Lots will follow along!


----------



## donwilwol

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #72 Chamfer Plane... Completely Restored*
> 
> The Stanley #72 Chamfer plane was on my list of Stanley specialty planes that I wanted to own. I like this plane from both a collector and a user view point. What I mean by that is its fun to use and its also fun to look at on the shelf.
> 
> This is the kind of plane in which I normally wouldn't restore to a like new condition. Had this one been in good condition and had nice patina I would have just sharpened the iron and left the rest alone. However this #72 did not have nice patina and it was in very poor condition. There was hardly any japanning left, it was rusted and the tote and knob had weathered to a grey like color and you couldn't even tell they were rosewood. I paid a premium price for this plane so I figured I would bring it back to looking like a premium plane.
> 
> Here are the before pictures of the plane..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I first took apart and soaked all the metal parts in EvapoRust for a few hours. After that I sanded down the area to be painted, hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned surface to be painted. After the paint dried I polished up the unpainted metal using wet/dry sandpaper. I stopped at 800 grit. I had to do some pretty heavy sanding to the tote and knob in order to get rid of the layer of weathered wood. I finished the wood with Bullseye Shellac Clear.
> 
> Here is the plane after…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/lz6u6ee.jpg
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first thoughts on using this plane-
> 
> I have only had the chance so far to test the plane out on a few boards. In order to give it a real review I will have to have more time with it. On my first test piece things did not go well. The front end of the plane is adjustable, you loosen the star shaped knob on the back and you can lift or lower the front. The position of the front end determines the depth of the chamfer. On my first trial run with the plane I had the depth set to deep and I didn't really get a nice looking chamfer. I basically just hogged off the edge of the board. I re adjusted the front end and tried again on a new piece. Adjusting the front made a huge difference, I got a much nicer chamfer on my 2nd attempt. For the third board I adjusted the front yet again and planed an even smaller chamfer. I tried taking photos of these boards but I was using light color wood and due to the lights in my shop and camera quality I couldn't quite capture the chamfer the way I wanted. I will have to use a darker wood and try and get pictures to post in a later update.
> 
> After figuring out the depth adjustment I ran into another problem. I was having a hard time both starting and ending the chamfer. Starting the chamfer from the end of the board was tough so I found it best to start the cut an inch or so from the edge, once chamfer is established I found it easiest to just turn plane around and plane off that first inch from the other direction. The other issue was finishing the cut at the other end of the board. Of coarse if your doing a stopped chamfer this would not be a problem but if your going all the way to the end I found you have to make sure to keep good pressure on the back of the plane. On the first and 2nd test pieces I was not keeping enough down pressure on the back so when I reached the end the cutter would dig down making a deeper cut at the end. Both of these are just minor user issues that will just take me some time to master.
> 
> Is this a handy user plane to have?
> 
> I think this plane is great for times where you need to cut long straight perfect chamfers. For smaller projects I will probably stick with my block plane but if I want to bevel the edge of a table or cut chamfers on casework I will reach for the #72. I will have to spend some time with it in order to give it a real review but thats just my early thoughts.





> Start a blog series here on LJs if you d like! Lots will follow along!
> 
> - Smitty_Cabinetshop


Good advice.


----------



## Carli

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #72 Chamfer Plane... Completely Restored*
> 
> The Stanley #72 Chamfer plane was on my list of Stanley specialty planes that I wanted to own. I like this plane from both a collector and a user view point. What I mean by that is its fun to use and its also fun to look at on the shelf.
> 
> This is the kind of plane in which I normally wouldn't restore to a like new condition. Had this one been in good condition and had nice patina I would have just sharpened the iron and left the rest alone. However this #72 did not have nice patina and it was in very poor condition. There was hardly any japanning left, it was rusted and the tote and knob had weathered to a grey like color and you couldn't even tell they were rosewood. I paid a premium price for this plane so I figured I would bring it back to looking like a premium plane.
> 
> Here are the before pictures of the plane..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I first took apart and soaked all the metal parts in EvapoRust for a few hours. After that I sanded down the area to be painted, hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned surface to be painted. After the paint dried I polished up the unpainted metal using wet/dry sandpaper. I stopped at 800 grit. I had to do some pretty heavy sanding to the tote and knob in order to get rid of the layer of weathered wood. I finished the wood with Bullseye Shellac Clear.
> 
> Here is the plane after…
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> !https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/lz6u6ee.jpg
> 
> !
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first thoughts on using this plane-
> 
> I have only had the chance so far to test the plane out on a few boards. In order to give it a real review I will have to have more time with it. On my first test piece things did not go well. The front end of the plane is adjustable, you loosen the star shaped knob on the back and you can lift or lower the front. The position of the front end determines the depth of the chamfer. On my first trial run with the plane I had the depth set to deep and I didn't really get a nice looking chamfer. I basically just hogged off the edge of the board. I re adjusted the front end and tried again on a new piece. Adjusting the front made a huge difference, I got a much nicer chamfer on my 2nd attempt. For the third board I adjusted the front yet again and planed an even smaller chamfer. I tried taking photos of these boards but I was using light color wood and due to the lights in my shop and camera quality I couldn't quite capture the chamfer the way I wanted. I will have to use a darker wood and try and get pictures to post in a later update.
> 
> After figuring out the depth adjustment I ran into another problem. I was having a hard time both starting and ending the chamfer. Starting the chamfer from the end of the board was tough so I found it best to start the cut an inch or so from the edge, once chamfer is established I found it easiest to just turn plane around and plane off that first inch from the other direction. The other issue was finishing the cut at the other end of the board. Of coarse if your doing a stopped chamfer this would not be a problem but if your going all the way to the end I found you have to make sure to keep good pressure on the back of the plane. On the first and 2nd test pieces I was not keeping enough down pressure on the back so when I reached the end the cutter would dig down making a deeper cut at the end. Both of these are just minor user issues that will just take me some time to master.
> 
> Is this a handy user plane to have?
> 
> I think this plane is great for times where you need to cut long straight perfect chamfers. For smaller projects I will probably stick with my block plane but if I want to bevel the edge of a table or cut chamfers on casework I will reach for the #72. I will have to spend some time with it in order to give it a real review but thats just my early thoughts.


UGH!

I don't have a wire wheel….... Is it okay to use a Dremel?

I had to buy Loctite Rust Remover…... we don't have that other stuff.

I am having issues navigating this site too and starting my own blog sooooooooooooo…. I'll just post here until I figure it out.

Hope Ya'll don't mind


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #72 Chamfer Plane... Completely Restored*
> 
> The Stanley #72 Chamfer plane was on my list of Stanley specialty planes that I wanted to own. I like this plane from both a collector and a user view point. What I mean by that is its fun to use and its also fun to look at on the shelf.
> 
> This is the kind of plane in which I normally wouldn't restore to a like new condition. Had this one been in good condition and had nice patina I would have just sharpened the iron and left the rest alone. However this #72 did not have nice patina and it was in very poor condition. There was hardly any japanning left, it was rusted and the tote and knob had weathered to a grey like color and you couldn't even tell they were rosewood. I paid a premium price for this plane so I figured I would bring it back to looking like a premium plane.
> 
> Here are the before pictures of the plane..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I first took apart and soaked all the metal parts in EvapoRust for a few hours. After that I sanded down the area to be painted, hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned surface to be painted. After the paint dried I polished up the unpainted metal using wet/dry sandpaper. I stopped at 800 grit. I had to do some pretty heavy sanding to the tote and knob in order to get rid of the layer of weathered wood. I finished the wood with Bullseye Shellac Clear.
> 
> Here is the plane after…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/lz6u6ee.jpg
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first thoughts on using this plane-
> 
> I have only had the chance so far to test the plane out on a few boards. In order to give it a real review I will have to have more time with it. On my first test piece things did not go well. The front end of the plane is adjustable, you loosen the star shaped knob on the back and you can lift or lower the front. The position of the front end determines the depth of the chamfer. On my first trial run with the plane I had the depth set to deep and I didn't really get a nice looking chamfer. I basically just hogged off the edge of the board. I re adjusted the front end and tried again on a new piece. Adjusting the front made a huge difference, I got a much nicer chamfer on my 2nd attempt. For the third board I adjusted the front yet again and planed an even smaller chamfer. I tried taking photos of these boards but I was using light color wood and due to the lights in my shop and camera quality I couldn't quite capture the chamfer the way I wanted. I will have to use a darker wood and try and get pictures to post in a later update.
> 
> After figuring out the depth adjustment I ran into another problem. I was having a hard time both starting and ending the chamfer. Starting the chamfer from the end of the board was tough so I found it best to start the cut an inch or so from the edge, once chamfer is established I found it easiest to just turn plane around and plane off that first inch from the other direction. The other issue was finishing the cut at the other end of the board. Of coarse if your doing a stopped chamfer this would not be a problem but if your going all the way to the end I found you have to make sure to keep good pressure on the back of the plane. On the first and 2nd test pieces I was not keeping enough down pressure on the back so when I reached the end the cutter would dig down making a deeper cut at the end. Both of these are just minor user issues that will just take me some time to master.
> 
> Is this a handy user plane to have?
> 
> I think this plane is great for times where you need to cut long straight perfect chamfers. For smaller projects I will probably stick with my block plane but if I want to bevel the edge of a table or cut chamfers on casework I will reach for the #72. I will have to spend some time with it in order to give it a real review but thats just my early thoughts.


I don't mind a bit! CHARGE!


----------



## Carli

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #72 Chamfer Plane... Completely Restored*
> 
> The Stanley #72 Chamfer plane was on my list of Stanley specialty planes that I wanted to own. I like this plane from both a collector and a user view point. What I mean by that is its fun to use and its also fun to look at on the shelf.
> 
> This is the kind of plane in which I normally wouldn't restore to a like new condition. Had this one been in good condition and had nice patina I would have just sharpened the iron and left the rest alone. However this #72 did not have nice patina and it was in very poor condition. There was hardly any japanning left, it was rusted and the tote and knob had weathered to a grey like color and you couldn't even tell they were rosewood. I paid a premium price for this plane so I figured I would bring it back to looking like a premium plane.
> 
> Here are the before pictures of the plane..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I first took apart and soaked all the metal parts in EvapoRust for a few hours. After that I sanded down the area to be painted, hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned surface to be painted. After the paint dried I polished up the unpainted metal using wet/dry sandpaper. I stopped at 800 grit. I had to do some pretty heavy sanding to the tote and knob in order to get rid of the layer of weathered wood. I finished the wood with Bullseye Shellac Clear.
> 
> Here is the plane after…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/lz6u6ee.jpg
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first thoughts on using this plane-
> 
> I have only had the chance so far to test the plane out on a few boards. In order to give it a real review I will have to have more time with it. On my first test piece things did not go well. The front end of the plane is adjustable, you loosen the star shaped knob on the back and you can lift or lower the front. The position of the front end determines the depth of the chamfer. On my first trial run with the plane I had the depth set to deep and I didn't really get a nice looking chamfer. I basically just hogged off the edge of the board. I re adjusted the front end and tried again on a new piece. Adjusting the front made a huge difference, I got a much nicer chamfer on my 2nd attempt. For the third board I adjusted the front yet again and planed an even smaller chamfer. I tried taking photos of these boards but I was using light color wood and due to the lights in my shop and camera quality I couldn't quite capture the chamfer the way I wanted. I will have to use a darker wood and try and get pictures to post in a later update.
> 
> After figuring out the depth adjustment I ran into another problem. I was having a hard time both starting and ending the chamfer. Starting the chamfer from the end of the board was tough so I found it best to start the cut an inch or so from the edge, once chamfer is established I found it easiest to just turn plane around and plane off that first inch from the other direction. The other issue was finishing the cut at the other end of the board. Of coarse if your doing a stopped chamfer this would not be a problem but if your going all the way to the end I found you have to make sure to keep good pressure on the back of the plane. On the first and 2nd test pieces I was not keeping enough down pressure on the back so when I reached the end the cutter would dig down making a deeper cut at the end. Both of these are just minor user issues that will just take me some time to master.
> 
> Is this a handy user plane to have?
> 
> I think this plane is great for times where you need to cut long straight perfect chamfers. For smaller projects I will probably stick with my block plane but if I want to bevel the edge of a table or cut chamfers on casework I will reach for the #72. I will have to spend some time with it in order to give it a real review but thats just my early thoughts.












Torn apart and somewhat clean….... Too tedious in a very hot garage today.

By the way…...... where would I get the correct blade for it?


----------



## Carli

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #72 Chamfer Plane... Completely Restored*
> 
> The Stanley #72 Chamfer plane was on my list of Stanley specialty planes that I wanted to own. I like this plane from both a collector and a user view point. What I mean by that is its fun to use and its also fun to look at on the shelf.
> 
> This is the kind of plane in which I normally wouldn't restore to a like new condition. Had this one been in good condition and had nice patina I would have just sharpened the iron and left the rest alone. However this #72 did not have nice patina and it was in very poor condition. There was hardly any japanning left, it was rusted and the tote and knob had weathered to a grey like color and you couldn't even tell they were rosewood. I paid a premium price for this plane so I figured I would bring it back to looking like a premium plane.
> 
> Here are the before pictures of the plane..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I first took apart and soaked all the metal parts in EvapoRust for a few hours. After that I sanded down the area to be painted, hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned surface to be painted. After the paint dried I polished up the unpainted metal using wet/dry sandpaper. I stopped at 800 grit. I had to do some pretty heavy sanding to the tote and knob in order to get rid of the layer of weathered wood. I finished the wood with Bullseye Shellac Clear.
> 
> Here is the plane after…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/lz6u6ee.jpg
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first thoughts on using this plane-
> 
> I have only had the chance so far to test the plane out on a few boards. In order to give it a real review I will have to have more time with it. On my first test piece things did not go well. The front end of the plane is adjustable, you loosen the star shaped knob on the back and you can lift or lower the front. The position of the front end determines the depth of the chamfer. On my first trial run with the plane I had the depth set to deep and I didn't really get a nice looking chamfer. I basically just hogged off the edge of the board. I re adjusted the front end and tried again on a new piece. Adjusting the front made a huge difference, I got a much nicer chamfer on my 2nd attempt. For the third board I adjusted the front yet again and planed an even smaller chamfer. I tried taking photos of these boards but I was using light color wood and due to the lights in my shop and camera quality I couldn't quite capture the chamfer the way I wanted. I will have to use a darker wood and try and get pictures to post in a later update.
> 
> After figuring out the depth adjustment I ran into another problem. I was having a hard time both starting and ending the chamfer. Starting the chamfer from the end of the board was tough so I found it best to start the cut an inch or so from the edge, once chamfer is established I found it easiest to just turn plane around and plane off that first inch from the other direction. The other issue was finishing the cut at the other end of the board. Of coarse if your doing a stopped chamfer this would not be a problem but if your going all the way to the end I found you have to make sure to keep good pressure on the back of the plane. On the first and 2nd test pieces I was not keeping enough down pressure on the back so when I reached the end the cutter would dig down making a deeper cut at the end. Both of these are just minor user issues that will just take me some time to master.
> 
> Is this a handy user plane to have?
> 
> I think this plane is great for times where you need to cut long straight perfect chamfers. For smaller projects I will probably stick with my block plane but if I want to bevel the edge of a table or cut chamfers on casework I will reach for the #72. I will have to spend some time with it in order to give it a real review but thats just my early thoughts.


I hate repeating myself

Sorry!

By the way…...... where would I get the correct blade for it?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #72 Chamfer Plane... Completely Restored*
> 
> The Stanley #72 Chamfer plane was on my list of Stanley specialty planes that I wanted to own. I like this plane from both a collector and a user view point. What I mean by that is its fun to use and its also fun to look at on the shelf.
> 
> This is the kind of plane in which I normally wouldn't restore to a like new condition. Had this one been in good condition and had nice patina I would have just sharpened the iron and left the rest alone. However this #72 did not have nice patina and it was in very poor condition. There was hardly any japanning left, it was rusted and the tote and knob had weathered to a grey like color and you couldn't even tell they were rosewood. I paid a premium price for this plane so I figured I would bring it back to looking like a premium plane.
> 
> Here are the before pictures of the plane..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I first took apart and soaked all the metal parts in EvapoRust for a few hours. After that I sanded down the area to be painted, hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned surface to be painted. After the paint dried I polished up the unpainted metal using wet/dry sandpaper. I stopped at 800 grit. I had to do some pretty heavy sanding to the tote and knob in order to get rid of the layer of weathered wood. I finished the wood with Bullseye Shellac Clear.
> 
> Here is the plane after…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/lz6u6ee.jpg
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first thoughts on using this plane-
> 
> I have only had the chance so far to test the plane out on a few boards. In order to give it a real review I will have to have more time with it. On my first test piece things did not go well. The front end of the plane is adjustable, you loosen the star shaped knob on the back and you can lift or lower the front. The position of the front end determines the depth of the chamfer. On my first trial run with the plane I had the depth set to deep and I didn't really get a nice looking chamfer. I basically just hogged off the edge of the board. I re adjusted the front end and tried again on a new piece. Adjusting the front made a huge difference, I got a much nicer chamfer on my 2nd attempt. For the third board I adjusted the front yet again and planed an even smaller chamfer. I tried taking photos of these boards but I was using light color wood and due to the lights in my shop and camera quality I couldn't quite capture the chamfer the way I wanted. I will have to use a darker wood and try and get pictures to post in a later update.
> 
> After figuring out the depth adjustment I ran into another problem. I was having a hard time both starting and ending the chamfer. Starting the chamfer from the end of the board was tough so I found it best to start the cut an inch or so from the edge, once chamfer is established I found it easiest to just turn plane around and plane off that first inch from the other direction. The other issue was finishing the cut at the other end of the board. Of coarse if your doing a stopped chamfer this would not be a problem but if your going all the way to the end I found you have to make sure to keep good pressure on the back of the plane. On the first and 2nd test pieces I was not keeping enough down pressure on the back so when I reached the end the cutter would dig down making a deeper cut at the end. Both of these are just minor user issues that will just take me some time to master.
> 
> Is this a handy user plane to have?
> 
> I think this plane is great for times where you need to cut long straight perfect chamfers. For smaller projects I will probably stick with my block plane but if I want to bevel the edge of a table or cut chamfers on casework I will reach for the #72. I will have to spend some time with it in order to give it a real review but thats just my early thoughts.


The cutter is 1 5/8"W, per 'der Leachmeister, and he adds this: "The cutter is single (it has no cap iron). The plane's original cutter is sometimes lost, and replaced with one from a common block plane. Remove the lever cap and inspect the backside of the blade; an original cutter will not have a series of grooves, like those of a block plane, machined into it."


----------



## donwilwol

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #72 Chamfer Plane... Completely Restored*
> 
> The Stanley #72 Chamfer plane was on my list of Stanley specialty planes that I wanted to own. I like this plane from both a collector and a user view point. What I mean by that is its fun to use and its also fun to look at on the shelf.
> 
> This is the kind of plane in which I normally wouldn't restore to a like new condition. Had this one been in good condition and had nice patina I would have just sharpened the iron and left the rest alone. However this #72 did not have nice patina and it was in very poor condition. There was hardly any japanning left, it was rusted and the tote and knob had weathered to a grey like color and you couldn't even tell they were rosewood. I paid a premium price for this plane so I figured I would bring it back to looking like a premium plane.
> 
> Here are the before pictures of the plane..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I first took apart and soaked all the metal parts in EvapoRust for a few hours. After that I sanded down the area to be painted, hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned surface to be painted. After the paint dried I polished up the unpainted metal using wet/dry sandpaper. I stopped at 800 grit. I had to do some pretty heavy sanding to the tote and knob in order to get rid of the layer of weathered wood. I finished the wood with Bullseye Shellac Clear.
> 
> Here is the plane after…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/lz6u6ee.jpg
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first thoughts on using this plane-
> 
> I have only had the chance so far to test the plane out on a few boards. In order to give it a real review I will have to have more time with it. On my first test piece things did not go well. The front end of the plane is adjustable, you loosen the star shaped knob on the back and you can lift or lower the front. The position of the front end determines the depth of the chamfer. On my first trial run with the plane I had the depth set to deep and I didn't really get a nice looking chamfer. I basically just hogged off the edge of the board. I re adjusted the front end and tried again on a new piece. Adjusting the front made a huge difference, I got a much nicer chamfer on my 2nd attempt. For the third board I adjusted the front yet again and planed an even smaller chamfer. I tried taking photos of these boards but I was using light color wood and due to the lights in my shop and camera quality I couldn't quite capture the chamfer the way I wanted. I will have to use a darker wood and try and get pictures to post in a later update.
> 
> After figuring out the depth adjustment I ran into another problem. I was having a hard time both starting and ending the chamfer. Starting the chamfer from the end of the board was tough so I found it best to start the cut an inch or so from the edge, once chamfer is established I found it easiest to just turn plane around and plane off that first inch from the other direction. The other issue was finishing the cut at the other end of the board. Of coarse if your doing a stopped chamfer this would not be a problem but if your going all the way to the end I found you have to make sure to keep good pressure on the back of the plane. On the first and 2nd test pieces I was not keeping enough down pressure on the back so when I reached the end the cutter would dig down making a deeper cut at the end. Both of these are just minor user issues that will just take me some time to master.
> 
> Is this a handy user plane to have?
> 
> I think this plane is great for times where you need to cut long straight perfect chamfers. For smaller projects I will probably stick with my block plane but if I want to bevel the edge of a table or cut chamfers on casework I will reach for the #72. I will have to spend some time with it in order to give it a real review but thats just my early thoughts.


if you want to find an original cutter, I have a list of parts dealers here, http://lumberjocks.com/donwilwol/blog/24092

keep in mind its just a list, not a recommendation, some I have used and some I have not.


----------



## Carli

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #72 Chamfer Plane... Completely Restored*
> 
> The Stanley #72 Chamfer plane was on my list of Stanley specialty planes that I wanted to own. I like this plane from both a collector and a user view point. What I mean by that is its fun to use and its also fun to look at on the shelf.
> 
> This is the kind of plane in which I normally wouldn't restore to a like new condition. Had this one been in good condition and had nice patina I would have just sharpened the iron and left the rest alone. However this #72 did not have nice patina and it was in very poor condition. There was hardly any japanning left, it was rusted and the tote and knob had weathered to a grey like color and you couldn't even tell they were rosewood. I paid a premium price for this plane so I figured I would bring it back to looking like a premium plane.
> 
> Here are the before pictures of the plane..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I first took apart and soaked all the metal parts in EvapoRust for a few hours. After that I sanded down the area to be painted, hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned surface to be painted. After the paint dried I polished up the unpainted metal using wet/dry sandpaper. I stopped at 800 grit. I had to do some pretty heavy sanding to the tote and knob in order to get rid of the layer of weathered wood. I finished the wood with Bullseye Shellac Clear.
> 
> Here is the plane after…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> !https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/lz6u6ee.jpg
> 
> !
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first thoughts on using this plane-
> 
> I have only had the chance so far to test the plane out on a few boards. In order to give it a real review I will have to have more time with it. On my first test piece things did not go well. The front end of the plane is adjustable, you loosen the star shaped knob on the back and you can lift or lower the front. The position of the front end determines the depth of the chamfer. On my first trial run with the plane I had the depth set to deep and I didn't really get a nice looking chamfer. I basically just hogged off the edge of the board. I re adjusted the front end and tried again on a new piece. Adjusting the front made a huge difference, I got a much nicer chamfer on my 2nd attempt. For the third board I adjusted the front yet again and planed an even smaller chamfer. I tried taking photos of these boards but I was using light color wood and due to the lights in my shop and camera quality I couldn't quite capture the chamfer the way I wanted. I will have to use a darker wood and try and get pictures to post in a later update.
> 
> After figuring out the depth adjustment I ran into another problem. I was having a hard time both starting and ending the chamfer. Starting the chamfer from the end of the board was tough so I found it best to start the cut an inch or so from the edge, once chamfer is established I found it easiest to just turn plane around and plane off that first inch from the other direction. The other issue was finishing the cut at the other end of the board. Of coarse if your doing a stopped chamfer this would not be a problem but if your going all the way to the end I found you have to make sure to keep good pressure on the back of the plane. On the first and 2nd test pieces I was not keeping enough down pressure on the back so when I reached the end the cutter would dig down making a deeper cut at the end. Both of these are just minor user issues that will just take me some time to master.
> 
> Is this a handy user plane to have?
> 
> I think this plane is great for times where you need to cut long straight perfect chamfers. For smaller projects I will probably stick with my block plane but if I want to bevel the edge of a table or cut chamfers on casework I will reach for the #72. I will have to spend some time with it in order to give it a real review but thats just my early thoughts.


Thanks guys…... appreciate the help.


----------



## donwilwol

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #72 Chamfer Plane... Completely Restored*
> 
> The Stanley #72 Chamfer plane was on my list of Stanley specialty planes that I wanted to own. I like this plane from both a collector and a user view point. What I mean by that is its fun to use and its also fun to look at on the shelf.
> 
> This is the kind of plane in which I normally wouldn't restore to a like new condition. Had this one been in good condition and had nice patina I would have just sharpened the iron and left the rest alone. However this #72 did not have nice patina and it was in very poor condition. There was hardly any japanning left, it was rusted and the tote and knob had weathered to a grey like color and you couldn't even tell they were rosewood. I paid a premium price for this plane so I figured I would bring it back to looking like a premium plane.
> 
> Here are the before pictures of the plane..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I first took apart and soaked all the metal parts in EvapoRust for a few hours. After that I sanded down the area to be painted, hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned surface to be painted. After the paint dried I polished up the unpainted metal using wet/dry sandpaper. I stopped at 800 grit. I had to do some pretty heavy sanding to the tote and knob in order to get rid of the layer of weathered wood. I finished the wood with Bullseye Shellac Clear.
> 
> Here is the plane after…
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> !https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/lz6u6ee.jpg
> 
> !
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first thoughts on using this plane-
> 
> I have only had the chance so far to test the plane out on a few boards. In order to give it a real review I will have to have more time with it. On my first test piece things did not go well. The front end of the plane is adjustable, you loosen the star shaped knob on the back and you can lift or lower the front. The position of the front end determines the depth of the chamfer. On my first trial run with the plane I had the depth set to deep and I didn't really get a nice looking chamfer. I basically just hogged off the edge of the board. I re adjusted the front end and tried again on a new piece. Adjusting the front made a huge difference, I got a much nicer chamfer on my 2nd attempt. For the third board I adjusted the front yet again and planed an even smaller chamfer. I tried taking photos of these boards but I was using light color wood and due to the lights in my shop and camera quality I couldn't quite capture the chamfer the way I wanted. I will have to use a darker wood and try and get pictures to post in a later update.
> 
> After figuring out the depth adjustment I ran into another problem. I was having a hard time both starting and ending the chamfer. Starting the chamfer from the end of the board was tough so I found it best to start the cut an inch or so from the edge, once chamfer is established I found it easiest to just turn plane around and plane off that first inch from the other direction. The other issue was finishing the cut at the other end of the board. Of coarse if your doing a stopped chamfer this would not be a problem but if your going all the way to the end I found you have to make sure to keep good pressure on the back of the plane. On the first and 2nd test pieces I was not keeping enough down pressure on the back so when I reached the end the cutter would dig down making a deeper cut at the end. Both of these are just minor user issues that will just take me some time to master.
> 
> Is this a handy user plane to have?
> 
> I think this plane is great for times where you need to cut long straight perfect chamfers. For smaller projects I will probably stick with my block plane but if I want to bevel the edge of a table or cut chamfers on casework I will reach for the #72. I will have to spend some time with it in order to give it a real review but thats just my early thoughts.


We'll want to see the before and afters over here, http://lumberjocks.com/topics/35888


----------



## Carli

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #72 Chamfer Plane... Completely Restored*
> 
> The Stanley #72 Chamfer plane was on my list of Stanley specialty planes that I wanted to own. I like this plane from both a collector and a user view point. What I mean by that is its fun to use and its also fun to look at on the shelf.
> 
> This is the kind of plane in which I normally wouldn't restore to a like new condition. Had this one been in good condition and had nice patina I would have just sharpened the iron and left the rest alone. However this #72 did not have nice patina and it was in very poor condition. There was hardly any japanning left, it was rusted and the tote and knob had weathered to a grey like color and you couldn't even tell they were rosewood. I paid a premium price for this plane so I figured I would bring it back to looking like a premium plane.
> 
> Here are the before pictures of the plane..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I first took apart and soaked all the metal parts in EvapoRust for a few hours. After that I sanded down the area to be painted, hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned surface to be painted. After the paint dried I polished up the unpainted metal using wet/dry sandpaper. I stopped at 800 grit. I had to do some pretty heavy sanding to the tote and knob in order to get rid of the layer of weathered wood. I finished the wood with Bullseye Shellac Clear.
> 
> Here is the plane after…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> !https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/lz6u6ee.jpg
> 
> !
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first thoughts on using this plane-
> 
> I have only had the chance so far to test the plane out on a few boards. In order to give it a real review I will have to have more time with it. On my first test piece things did not go well. The front end of the plane is adjustable, you loosen the star shaped knob on the back and you can lift or lower the front. The position of the front end determines the depth of the chamfer. On my first trial run with the plane I had the depth set to deep and I didn't really get a nice looking chamfer. I basically just hogged off the edge of the board. I re adjusted the front end and tried again on a new piece. Adjusting the front made a huge difference, I got a much nicer chamfer on my 2nd attempt. For the third board I adjusted the front yet again and planed an even smaller chamfer. I tried taking photos of these boards but I was using light color wood and due to the lights in my shop and camera quality I couldn't quite capture the chamfer the way I wanted. I will have to use a darker wood and try and get pictures to post in a later update.
> 
> After figuring out the depth adjustment I ran into another problem. I was having a hard time both starting and ending the chamfer. Starting the chamfer from the end of the board was tough so I found it best to start the cut an inch or so from the edge, once chamfer is established I found it easiest to just turn plane around and plane off that first inch from the other direction. The other issue was finishing the cut at the other end of the board. Of coarse if your doing a stopped chamfer this would not be a problem but if your going all the way to the end I found you have to make sure to keep good pressure on the back of the plane. On the first and 2nd test pieces I was not keeping enough down pressure on the back so when I reached the end the cutter would dig down making a deeper cut at the end. Both of these are just minor user issues that will just take me some time to master.
> 
> Is this a handy user plane to have?
> 
> I think this plane is great for times where you need to cut long straight perfect chamfers. For smaller projects I will probably stick with my block plane but if I want to bevel the edge of a table or cut chamfers on casework I will reach for the #72. I will have to spend some time with it in order to give it a real review but thats just my early thoughts.


I think that will be up to the gentleman who couldn't live without the plane…...... But I DO hope he keeps me in the loop.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #72 Chamfer Plane... Completely Restored*
> 
> The Stanley #72 Chamfer plane was on my list of Stanley specialty planes that I wanted to own. I like this plane from both a collector and a user view point. What I mean by that is its fun to use and its also fun to look at on the shelf.
> 
> This is the kind of plane in which I normally wouldn't restore to a like new condition. Had this one been in good condition and had nice patina I would have just sharpened the iron and left the rest alone. However this #72 did not have nice patina and it was in very poor condition. There was hardly any japanning left, it was rusted and the tote and knob had weathered to a grey like color and you couldn't even tell they were rosewood. I paid a premium price for this plane so I figured I would bring it back to looking like a premium plane.
> 
> Here are the before pictures of the plane..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I first took apart and soaked all the metal parts in EvapoRust for a few hours. After that I sanded down the area to be painted, hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned surface to be painted. After the paint dried I polished up the unpainted metal using wet/dry sandpaper. I stopped at 800 grit. I had to do some pretty heavy sanding to the tote and knob in order to get rid of the layer of weathered wood. I finished the wood with Bullseye Shellac Clear.
> 
> Here is the plane after…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> !https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/lz6u6ee.jpg
> 
> !
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first thoughts on using this plane-
> 
> I have only had the chance so far to test the plane out on a few boards. In order to give it a real review I will have to have more time with it. On my first test piece things did not go well. The front end of the plane is adjustable, you loosen the star shaped knob on the back and you can lift or lower the front. The position of the front end determines the depth of the chamfer. On my first trial run with the plane I had the depth set to deep and I didn't really get a nice looking chamfer. I basically just hogged off the edge of the board. I re adjusted the front end and tried again on a new piece. Adjusting the front made a huge difference, I got a much nicer chamfer on my 2nd attempt. For the third board I adjusted the front yet again and planed an even smaller chamfer. I tried taking photos of these boards but I was using light color wood and due to the lights in my shop and camera quality I couldn't quite capture the chamfer the way I wanted. I will have to use a darker wood and try and get pictures to post in a later update.
> 
> After figuring out the depth adjustment I ran into another problem. I was having a hard time both starting and ending the chamfer. Starting the chamfer from the end of the board was tough so I found it best to start the cut an inch or so from the edge, once chamfer is established I found it easiest to just turn plane around and plane off that first inch from the other direction. The other issue was finishing the cut at the other end of the board. Of coarse if your doing a stopped chamfer this would not be a problem but if your going all the way to the end I found you have to make sure to keep good pressure on the back of the plane. On the first and 2nd test pieces I was not keeping enough down pressure on the back so when I reached the end the cutter would dig down making a deeper cut at the end. Both of these are just minor user issues that will just take me some time to master.
> 
> Is this a handy user plane to have?
> 
> I think this plane is great for times where you need to cut long straight perfect chamfers. For smaller projects I will probably stick with my block plane but if I want to bevel the edge of a table or cut chamfers on casework I will reach for the #72. I will have to spend some time with it in order to give it a real review but thats just my early thoughts.


It is alive…





View on YouTube


----------



## Carli

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #72 Chamfer Plane... Completely Restored*
> 
> The Stanley #72 Chamfer plane was on my list of Stanley specialty planes that I wanted to own. I like this plane from both a collector and a user view point. What I mean by that is its fun to use and its also fun to look at on the shelf.
> 
> This is the kind of plane in which I normally wouldn't restore to a like new condition. Had this one been in good condition and had nice patina I would have just sharpened the iron and left the rest alone. However this #72 did not have nice patina and it was in very poor condition. There was hardly any japanning left, it was rusted and the tote and knob had weathered to a grey like color and you couldn't even tell they were rosewood. I paid a premium price for this plane so I figured I would bring it back to looking like a premium plane.
> 
> Here are the before pictures of the plane..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I first took apart and soaked all the metal parts in EvapoRust for a few hours. After that I sanded down the area to be painted, hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned surface to be painted. After the paint dried I polished up the unpainted metal using wet/dry sandpaper. I stopped at 800 grit. I had to do some pretty heavy sanding to the tote and knob in order to get rid of the layer of weathered wood. I finished the wood with Bullseye Shellac Clear.
> 
> Here is the plane after…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> !https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/lz6u6ee.jpg
> 
> !
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first thoughts on using this plane-
> 
> I have only had the chance so far to test the plane out on a few boards. In order to give it a real review I will have to have more time with it. On my first test piece things did not go well. The front end of the plane is adjustable, you loosen the star shaped knob on the back and you can lift or lower the front. The position of the front end determines the depth of the chamfer. On my first trial run with the plane I had the depth set to deep and I didn't really get a nice looking chamfer. I basically just hogged off the edge of the board. I re adjusted the front end and tried again on a new piece. Adjusting the front made a huge difference, I got a much nicer chamfer on my 2nd attempt. For the third board I adjusted the front yet again and planed an even smaller chamfer. I tried taking photos of these boards but I was using light color wood and due to the lights in my shop and camera quality I couldn't quite capture the chamfer the way I wanted. I will have to use a darker wood and try and get pictures to post in a later update.
> 
> After figuring out the depth adjustment I ran into another problem. I was having a hard time both starting and ending the chamfer. Starting the chamfer from the end of the board was tough so I found it best to start the cut an inch or so from the edge, once chamfer is established I found it easiest to just turn plane around and plane off that first inch from the other direction. The other issue was finishing the cut at the other end of the board. Of coarse if your doing a stopped chamfer this would not be a problem but if your going all the way to the end I found you have to make sure to keep good pressure on the back of the plane. On the first and 2nd test pieces I was not keeping enough down pressure on the back so when I reached the end the cutter would dig down making a deeper cut at the end. Both of these are just minor user issues that will just take me some time to master.
> 
> Is this a handy user plane to have?
> 
> I think this plane is great for times where you need to cut long straight perfect chamfers. For smaller projects I will probably stick with my block plane but if I want to bevel the edge of a table or cut chamfers on casework I will reach for the #72. I will have to spend some time with it in order to give it a real review but thats just my early thoughts.


Where is your Stanley 72 Smitty?


----------



## helluvawreck

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #72 Chamfer Plane... Completely Restored*
> 
> The Stanley #72 Chamfer plane was on my list of Stanley specialty planes that I wanted to own. I like this plane from both a collector and a user view point. What I mean by that is its fun to use and its also fun to look at on the shelf.
> 
> This is the kind of plane in which I normally wouldn't restore to a like new condition. Had this one been in good condition and had nice patina I would have just sharpened the iron and left the rest alone. However this #72 did not have nice patina and it was in very poor condition. There was hardly any japanning left, it was rusted and the tote and knob had weathered to a grey like color and you couldn't even tell they were rosewood. I paid a premium price for this plane so I figured I would bring it back to looking like a premium plane.
> 
> Here are the before pictures of the plane..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I first took apart and soaked all the metal parts in EvapoRust for a few hours. After that I sanded down the area to be painted, hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned surface to be painted. After the paint dried I polished up the unpainted metal using wet/dry sandpaper. I stopped at 800 grit. I had to do some pretty heavy sanding to the tote and knob in order to get rid of the layer of weathered wood. I finished the wood with Bullseye Shellac Clear.
> 
> Here is the plane after…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> !https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/lz6u6ee.jpg
> 
> !
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first thoughts on using this plane-
> 
> I have only had the chance so far to test the plane out on a few boards. In order to give it a real review I will have to have more time with it. On my first test piece things did not go well. The front end of the plane is adjustable, you loosen the star shaped knob on the back and you can lift or lower the front. The position of the front end determines the depth of the chamfer. On my first trial run with the plane I had the depth set to deep and I didn't really get a nice looking chamfer. I basically just hogged off the edge of the board. I re adjusted the front end and tried again on a new piece. Adjusting the front made a huge difference, I got a much nicer chamfer on my 2nd attempt. For the third board I adjusted the front yet again and planed an even smaller chamfer. I tried taking photos of these boards but I was using light color wood and due to the lights in my shop and camera quality I couldn't quite capture the chamfer the way I wanted. I will have to use a darker wood and try and get pictures to post in a later update.
> 
> After figuring out the depth adjustment I ran into another problem. I was having a hard time both starting and ending the chamfer. Starting the chamfer from the end of the board was tough so I found it best to start the cut an inch or so from the edge, once chamfer is established I found it easiest to just turn plane around and plane off that first inch from the other direction. The other issue was finishing the cut at the other end of the board. Of coarse if your doing a stopped chamfer this would not be a problem but if your going all the way to the end I found you have to make sure to keep good pressure on the back of the plane. On the first and 2nd test pieces I was not keeping enough down pressure on the back so when I reached the end the cutter would dig down making a deeper cut at the end. Both of these are just minor user issues that will just take me some time to master.
> 
> Is this a handy user plane to have?
> 
> I think this plane is great for times where you need to cut long straight perfect chamfers. For smaller projects I will probably stick with my block plane but if I want to bevel the edge of a table or cut chamfers on casework I will reach for the #72. I will have to spend some time with it in order to give it a real review but thats just my early thoughts.


That is a beautiful job of restoration.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #72 Chamfer Plane... Completely Restored*
> 
> The Stanley #72 Chamfer plane was on my list of Stanley specialty planes that I wanted to own. I like this plane from both a collector and a user view point. What I mean by that is its fun to use and its also fun to look at on the shelf.
> 
> This is the kind of plane in which I normally wouldn't restore to a like new condition. Had this one been in good condition and had nice patina I would have just sharpened the iron and left the rest alone. However this #72 did not have nice patina and it was in very poor condition. There was hardly any japanning left, it was rusted and the tote and knob had weathered to a grey like color and you couldn't even tell they were rosewood. I paid a premium price for this plane so I figured I would bring it back to looking like a premium plane.
> 
> Here are the before pictures of the plane..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I first took apart and soaked all the metal parts in EvapoRust for a few hours. After that I sanded down the area to be painted, hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned surface to be painted. After the paint dried I polished up the unpainted metal using wet/dry sandpaper. I stopped at 800 grit. I had to do some pretty heavy sanding to the tote and knob in order to get rid of the layer of weathered wood. I finished the wood with Bullseye Shellac Clear.
> 
> Here is the plane after…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/lz6u6ee.jpg
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first thoughts on using this plane-
> 
> I have only had the chance so far to test the plane out on a few boards. In order to give it a real review I will have to have more time with it. On my first test piece things did not go well. The front end of the plane is adjustable, you loosen the star shaped knob on the back and you can lift or lower the front. The position of the front end determines the depth of the chamfer. On my first trial run with the plane I had the depth set to deep and I didn't really get a nice looking chamfer. I basically just hogged off the edge of the board. I re adjusted the front end and tried again on a new piece. Adjusting the front made a huge difference, I got a much nicer chamfer on my 2nd attempt. For the third board I adjusted the front yet again and planed an even smaller chamfer. I tried taking photos of these boards but I was using light color wood and due to the lights in my shop and camera quality I couldn't quite capture the chamfer the way I wanted. I will have to use a darker wood and try and get pictures to post in a later update.
> 
> After figuring out the depth adjustment I ran into another problem. I was having a hard time both starting and ending the chamfer. Starting the chamfer from the end of the board was tough so I found it best to start the cut an inch or so from the edge, once chamfer is established I found it easiest to just turn plane around and plane off that first inch from the other direction. The other issue was finishing the cut at the other end of the board. Of coarse if your doing a stopped chamfer this would not be a problem but if your going all the way to the end I found you have to make sure to keep good pressure on the back of the plane. On the first and 2nd test pieces I was not keeping enough down pressure on the back so when I reached the end the cutter would dig down making a deeper cut at the end. Both of these are just minor user issues that will just take me some time to master.
> 
> Is this a handy user plane to have?
> 
> I think this plane is great for times where you need to cut long straight perfect chamfers. For smaller projects I will probably stick with my block plane but if I want to bevel the edge of a table or cut chamfers on casework I will reach for the #72. I will have to spend some time with it in order to give it a real review but thats just my early thoughts.


Carli - that's it, in the video!


----------



## Carli

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #72 Chamfer Plane... Completely Restored*
> 
> The Stanley #72 Chamfer plane was on my list of Stanley specialty planes that I wanted to own. I like this plane from both a collector and a user view point. What I mean by that is its fun to use and its also fun to look at on the shelf.
> 
> This is the kind of plane in which I normally wouldn't restore to a like new condition. Had this one been in good condition and had nice patina I would have just sharpened the iron and left the rest alone. However this #72 did not have nice patina and it was in very poor condition. There was hardly any japanning left, it was rusted and the tote and knob had weathered to a grey like color and you couldn't even tell they were rosewood. I paid a premium price for this plane so I figured I would bring it back to looking like a premium plane.
> 
> Here are the before pictures of the plane..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I first took apart and soaked all the metal parts in EvapoRust for a few hours. After that I sanded down the area to be painted, hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned surface to be painted. After the paint dried I polished up the unpainted metal using wet/dry sandpaper. I stopped at 800 grit. I had to do some pretty heavy sanding to the tote and knob in order to get rid of the layer of weathered wood. I finished the wood with Bullseye Shellac Clear.
> 
> Here is the plane after…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/lz6u6ee.jpg
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first thoughts on using this plane-
> 
> I have only had the chance so far to test the plane out on a few boards. In order to give it a real review I will have to have more time with it. On my first test piece things did not go well. The front end of the plane is adjustable, you loosen the star shaped knob on the back and you can lift or lower the front. The position of the front end determines the depth of the chamfer. On my first trial run with the plane I had the depth set to deep and I didn't really get a nice looking chamfer. I basically just hogged off the edge of the board. I re adjusted the front end and tried again on a new piece. Adjusting the front made a huge difference, I got a much nicer chamfer on my 2nd attempt. For the third board I adjusted the front yet again and planed an even smaller chamfer. I tried taking photos of these boards but I was using light color wood and due to the lights in my shop and camera quality I couldn't quite capture the chamfer the way I wanted. I will have to use a darker wood and try and get pictures to post in a later update.
> 
> After figuring out the depth adjustment I ran into another problem. I was having a hard time both starting and ending the chamfer. Starting the chamfer from the end of the board was tough so I found it best to start the cut an inch or so from the edge, once chamfer is established I found it easiest to just turn plane around and plane off that first inch from the other direction. The other issue was finishing the cut at the other end of the board. Of coarse if your doing a stopped chamfer this would not be a problem but if your going all the way to the end I found you have to make sure to keep good pressure on the back of the plane. On the first and 2nd test pieces I was not keeping enough down pressure on the back so when I reached the end the cutter would dig down making a deeper cut at the end. Both of these are just minor user issues that will just take me some time to master.
> 
> Is this a handy user plane to have?
> 
> I think this plane is great for times where you need to cut long straight perfect chamfers. For smaller projects I will probably stick with my block plane but if I want to bevel the edge of a table or cut chamfers on casework I will reach for the #72. I will have to spend some time with it in order to give it a real review but thats just my early thoughts.





> Carli - that s it, in the video!
> 
> - Smitty_Cabinetshop


Very nice!

Sent a copy of video to my mom.

Glad you will put it to good use!!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #72 Chamfer Plane... Completely Restored*
> 
> The Stanley #72 Chamfer plane was on my list of Stanley specialty planes that I wanted to own. I like this plane from both a collector and a user view point. What I mean by that is its fun to use and its also fun to look at on the shelf.
> 
> This is the kind of plane in which I normally wouldn't restore to a like new condition. Had this one been in good condition and had nice patina I would have just sharpened the iron and left the rest alone. However this #72 did not have nice patina and it was in very poor condition. There was hardly any japanning left, it was rusted and the tote and knob had weathered to a grey like color and you couldn't even tell they were rosewood. I paid a premium price for this plane so I figured I would bring it back to looking like a premium plane.
> 
> Here are the before pictures of the plane..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I first took apart and soaked all the metal parts in EvapoRust for a few hours. After that I sanded down the area to be painted, hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned surface to be painted. After the paint dried I polished up the unpainted metal using wet/dry sandpaper. I stopped at 800 grit. I had to do some pretty heavy sanding to the tote and knob in order to get rid of the layer of weathered wood. I finished the wood with Bullseye Shellac Clear.
> 
> Here is the plane after…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/lz6u6ee.jpg
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first thoughts on using this plane-
> 
> I have only had the chance so far to test the plane out on a few boards. In order to give it a real review I will have to have more time with it. On my first test piece things did not go well. The front end of the plane is adjustable, you loosen the star shaped knob on the back and you can lift or lower the front. The position of the front end determines the depth of the chamfer. On my first trial run with the plane I had the depth set to deep and I didn't really get a nice looking chamfer. I basically just hogged off the edge of the board. I re adjusted the front end and tried again on a new piece. Adjusting the front made a huge difference, I got a much nicer chamfer on my 2nd attempt. For the third board I adjusted the front yet again and planed an even smaller chamfer. I tried taking photos of these boards but I was using light color wood and due to the lights in my shop and camera quality I couldn't quite capture the chamfer the way I wanted. I will have to use a darker wood and try and get pictures to post in a later update.
> 
> After figuring out the depth adjustment I ran into another problem. I was having a hard time both starting and ending the chamfer. Starting the chamfer from the end of the board was tough so I found it best to start the cut an inch or so from the edge, once chamfer is established I found it easiest to just turn plane around and plane off that first inch from the other direction. The other issue was finishing the cut at the other end of the board. Of coarse if your doing a stopped chamfer this would not be a problem but if your going all the way to the end I found you have to make sure to keep good pressure on the back of the plane. On the first and 2nd test pieces I was not keeping enough down pressure on the back so when I reached the end the cutter would dig down making a deeper cut at the end. Both of these are just minor user issues that will just take me some time to master.
> 
> Is this a handy user plane to have?
> 
> I think this plane is great for times where you need to cut long straight perfect chamfers. For smaller projects I will probably stick with my block plane but if I want to bevel the edge of a table or cut chamfers on casework I will reach for the #72. I will have to spend some time with it in order to give it a real review but thats just my early thoughts.


I hope she likes it. Did very little to the tool once I took a closer look; pretty much just a razor blade, a red scratch pad and WD40 was it.


----------



## Carli

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #72 Chamfer Plane... Completely Restored*
> 
> The Stanley #72 Chamfer plane was on my list of Stanley specialty planes that I wanted to own. I like this plane from both a collector and a user view point. What I mean by that is its fun to use and its also fun to look at on the shelf.
> 
> This is the kind of plane in which I normally wouldn't restore to a like new condition. Had this one been in good condition and had nice patina I would have just sharpened the iron and left the rest alone. However this #72 did not have nice patina and it was in very poor condition. There was hardly any japanning left, it was rusted and the tote and knob had weathered to a grey like color and you couldn't even tell they were rosewood. I paid a premium price for this plane so I figured I would bring it back to looking like a premium plane.
> 
> Here are the before pictures of the plane..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I first took apart and soaked all the metal parts in EvapoRust for a few hours. After that I sanded down the area to be painted, hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned surface to be painted. After the paint dried I polished up the unpainted metal using wet/dry sandpaper. I stopped at 800 grit. I had to do some pretty heavy sanding to the tote and knob in order to get rid of the layer of weathered wood. I finished the wood with Bullseye Shellac Clear.
> 
> Here is the plane after…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/lz6u6ee.jpg
> 
> !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first thoughts on using this plane-
> 
> I have only had the chance so far to test the plane out on a few boards. In order to give it a real review I will have to have more time with it. On my first test piece things did not go well. The front end of the plane is adjustable, you loosen the star shaped knob on the back and you can lift or lower the front. The position of the front end determines the depth of the chamfer. On my first trial run with the plane I had the depth set to deep and I didn't really get a nice looking chamfer. I basically just hogged off the edge of the board. I re adjusted the front end and tried again on a new piece. Adjusting the front made a huge difference, I got a much nicer chamfer on my 2nd attempt. For the third board I adjusted the front yet again and planed an even smaller chamfer. I tried taking photos of these boards but I was using light color wood and due to the lights in my shop and camera quality I couldn't quite capture the chamfer the way I wanted. I will have to use a darker wood and try and get pictures to post in a later update.
> 
> After figuring out the depth adjustment I ran into another problem. I was having a hard time both starting and ending the chamfer. Starting the chamfer from the end of the board was tough so I found it best to start the cut an inch or so from the edge, once chamfer is established I found it easiest to just turn plane around and plane off that first inch from the other direction. The other issue was finishing the cut at the other end of the board. Of coarse if your doing a stopped chamfer this would not be a problem but if your going all the way to the end I found you have to make sure to keep good pressure on the back of the plane. On the first and 2nd test pieces I was not keeping enough down pressure on the back so when I reached the end the cutter would dig down making a deeper cut at the end. Both of these are just minor user issues that will just take me some time to master.
> 
> Is this a handy user plane to have?
> 
> I think this plane is great for times where you need to cut long straight perfect chamfers. For smaller projects I will probably stick with my block plane but if I want to bevel the edge of a table or cut chamfers on casework I will reach for the #72. I will have to spend some time with it in order to give it a real review but thats just my early thoughts.


My Mom is very pleased that someone gets to enjoy that little plane. She loved seeing the video.

Thanks for sharing Smitty


----------



## Dcase

*Stanley #34 completely restored. The longest jointer that Stanley made. *

Its been a while since my last blog on plane restoration. Over the past year I have been trying to build up a collection of the Stanley wood bottom transitional planes. With each one that I have restored I get a little better at tuning them. Once you figure out how to get them all tuned and set right they are really fine working planes.

The #34 Jointer was one of the trans planes that was at the top of my want list. At 30" long it is the longest plane that Stanley ever produced. This plane is not really an easy one to find and I had been on the watch for one for a while. Thanks to a fellow LJ member I was finally able to get my hands on one.

Here is a before picture









The plane was in decent shape but it did have one big issue and that was the wooden body was cupped. If you look close at the photo you can see the cup. The only other issue was the top of the tote was missing but other then that everything was in good shape.

I started by taking it apart and I then ran the body through my power jointer to flatten the bottom. I set the jointer to take a very light cut and I just made a bunch of passes until I had taken the cup out. Once I had the bottom flat I then realized there was a big hump on the top. I figured it be best I run it through the planer, again taking really light cuts until I got the high spot out. I also squared up the edges/sides of the plane.

Here is the sole after it was jointed. Check out the grain. 









Once I had the body square and flat I smoothed it out with a mix of hand planes and some sand paper. I finished the body with BLO and then put a top coat of clear Shellac on.

Once it was dry I put everything back together and discovered I had a new problem. Somehow (probably due to reducing the thickness of the body) the metal top did not line up right. With the frog adjusted as far forward as it would go it was not far enough to line up even with the iron bedding in the wood body. I decided the only solution to this issue was to plug all the existing mounting holes in the wood, move the metal frame up a little to where I could get the frog to line up and then re drill new mounting holes. 









I just used a piece of scrap maple to cut the plugs. The metal top only had to be moved up a little so none of the plugs are visible when the plane is assembled.

I also re-painted the metal parts.

With the body done the next step was to repair the tote. To fix the tote I used a small block plane to flatten the break in the tote and then I glued on a piece of maple. I would have tried to match the beech better but I had a piece of maple that was the perfect size and thickness so thats what I used.

I glued the piece of maple on the tote and used nothing more then a couple pieces of masking tape to clamp it. The tape did a fine job as the glue joint is solid and held up through the shaping process. 



























Here are some pictures of the plane completed and in action (Note: the tote was not finished yet at the time of these pictures so I used a tote off one of my other planes)


----------



## Mosquito

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #34 completely restored. The longest jointer that Stanley made. *
> 
> Its been a while since my last blog on plane restoration. Over the past year I have been trying to build up a collection of the Stanley wood bottom transitional planes. With each one that I have restored I get a little better at tuning them. Once you figure out how to get them all tuned and set right they are really fine working planes.
> 
> The #34 Jointer was one of the trans planes that was at the top of my want list. At 30" long it is the longest plane that Stanley ever produced. This plane is not really an easy one to find and I had been on the watch for one for a while. Thanks to a fellow LJ member I was finally able to get my hands on one.
> 
> Here is a before picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plane was in decent shape but it did have one big issue and that was the wooden body was cupped. If you look close at the photo you can see the cup. The only other issue was the top of the tote was missing but other then that everything was in good shape.
> 
> I started by taking it apart and I then ran the body through my power jointer to flatten the bottom. I set the jointer to take a very light cut and I just made a bunch of passes until I had taken the cup out. Once I had the bottom flat I then realized there was a big hump on the top. I figured it be best I run it through the planer, again taking really light cuts until I got the high spot out. I also squared up the edges/sides of the plane.
> 
> Here is the sole after it was jointed. Check out the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I had the body square and flat I smoothed it out with a mix of hand planes and some sand paper. I finished the body with BLO and then put a top coat of clear Shellac on.
> 
> Once it was dry I put everything back together and discovered I had a new problem. Somehow (probably due to reducing the thickness of the body) the metal top did not line up right. With the frog adjusted as far forward as it would go it was not far enough to line up even with the iron bedding in the wood body. I decided the only solution to this issue was to plug all the existing mounting holes in the wood, move the metal frame up a little to where I could get the frog to line up and then re drill new mounting holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just used a piece of scrap maple to cut the plugs. The metal top only had to be moved up a little so none of the plugs are visible when the plane is assembled.
> 
> I also re-painted the metal parts.
> 
> With the body done the next step was to repair the tote. To fix the tote I used a small block plane to flatten the break in the tote and then I glued on a piece of maple. I would have tried to match the beech better but I had a piece of maple that was the perfect size and thickness so thats what I used.
> 
> I glued the piece of maple on the tote and used nothing more then a couple pieces of masking tape to clamp it. The tape did a fine job as the glue joint is solid and held up through the shaping process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pictures of the plane completed and in action (Note: the tote was not finished yet at the time of these pictures so I used a tote off one of my other planes)


That's still probably one of my favorite restores I've seen so far. I really like that plane, and the grain is so amazing on it. Great work Dan.


----------



## donwilwol

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #34 completely restored. The longest jointer that Stanley made. *
> 
> Its been a while since my last blog on plane restoration. Over the past year I have been trying to build up a collection of the Stanley wood bottom transitional planes. With each one that I have restored I get a little better at tuning them. Once you figure out how to get them all tuned and set right they are really fine working planes.
> 
> The #34 Jointer was one of the trans planes that was at the top of my want list. At 30" long it is the longest plane that Stanley ever produced. This plane is not really an easy one to find and I had been on the watch for one for a while. Thanks to a fellow LJ member I was finally able to get my hands on one.
> 
> Here is a before picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plane was in decent shape but it did have one big issue and that was the wooden body was cupped. If you look close at the photo you can see the cup. The only other issue was the top of the tote was missing but other then that everything was in good shape.
> 
> I started by taking it apart and I then ran the body through my power jointer to flatten the bottom. I set the jointer to take a very light cut and I just made a bunch of passes until I had taken the cup out. Once I had the bottom flat I then realized there was a big hump on the top. I figured it be best I run it through the planer, again taking really light cuts until I got the high spot out. I also squared up the edges/sides of the plane.
> 
> Here is the sole after it was jointed. Check out the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I had the body square and flat I smoothed it out with a mix of hand planes and some sand paper. I finished the body with BLO and then put a top coat of clear Shellac on.
> 
> Once it was dry I put everything back together and discovered I had a new problem. Somehow (probably due to reducing the thickness of the body) the metal top did not line up right. With the frog adjusted as far forward as it would go it was not far enough to line up even with the iron bedding in the wood body. I decided the only solution to this issue was to plug all the existing mounting holes in the wood, move the metal frame up a little to where I could get the frog to line up and then re drill new mounting holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just used a piece of scrap maple to cut the plugs. The metal top only had to be moved up a little so none of the plugs are visible when the plane is assembled.
> 
> I also re-painted the metal parts.
> 
> With the body done the next step was to repair the tote. To fix the tote I used a small block plane to flatten the break in the tote and then I glued on a piece of maple. I would have tried to match the beech better but I had a piece of maple that was the perfect size and thickness so thats what I used.
> 
> I glued the piece of maple on the tote and used nothing more then a couple pieces of masking tape to clamp it. The tape did a fine job as the glue joint is solid and held up through the shaping process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pictures of the plane completed and in action (Note: the tote was not finished yet at the time of these pictures so I used a tote off one of my other planes)


nice Dan. You've got that tuned well.


----------



## Kookaburra

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #34 completely restored. The longest jointer that Stanley made. *
> 
> Its been a while since my last blog on plane restoration. Over the past year I have been trying to build up a collection of the Stanley wood bottom transitional planes. With each one that I have restored I get a little better at tuning them. Once you figure out how to get them all tuned and set right they are really fine working planes.
> 
> The #34 Jointer was one of the trans planes that was at the top of my want list. At 30" long it is the longest plane that Stanley ever produced. This plane is not really an easy one to find and I had been on the watch for one for a while. Thanks to a fellow LJ member I was finally able to get my hands on one.
> 
> Here is a before picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plane was in decent shape but it did have one big issue and that was the wooden body was cupped. If you look close at the photo you can see the cup. The only other issue was the top of the tote was missing but other then that everything was in good shape.
> 
> I started by taking it apart and I then ran the body through my power jointer to flatten the bottom. I set the jointer to take a very light cut and I just made a bunch of passes until I had taken the cup out. Once I had the bottom flat I then realized there was a big hump on the top. I figured it be best I run it through the planer, again taking really light cuts until I got the high spot out. I also squared up the edges/sides of the plane.
> 
> Here is the sole after it was jointed. Check out the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I had the body square and flat I smoothed it out with a mix of hand planes and some sand paper. I finished the body with BLO and then put a top coat of clear Shellac on.
> 
> Once it was dry I put everything back together and discovered I had a new problem. Somehow (probably due to reducing the thickness of the body) the metal top did not line up right. With the frog adjusted as far forward as it would go it was not far enough to line up even with the iron bedding in the wood body. I decided the only solution to this issue was to plug all the existing mounting holes in the wood, move the metal frame up a little to where I could get the frog to line up and then re drill new mounting holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just used a piece of scrap maple to cut the plugs. The metal top only had to be moved up a little so none of the plugs are visible when the plane is assembled.
> 
> I also re-painted the metal parts.
> 
> With the body done the next step was to repair the tote. To fix the tote I used a small block plane to flatten the break in the tote and then I glued on a piece of maple. I would have tried to match the beech better but I had a piece of maple that was the perfect size and thickness so thats what I used.
> 
> I glued the piece of maple on the tote and used nothing more then a couple pieces of masking tape to clamp it. The tape did a fine job as the glue joint is solid and held up through the shaping process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pictures of the plane completed and in action (Note: the tote was not finished yet at the time of these pictures so I used a tote off one of my other planes)


Beautiful piece of ribbon you made!


----------



## AnthonyReed

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #34 completely restored. The longest jointer that Stanley made. *
> 
> Its been a while since my last blog on plane restoration. Over the past year I have been trying to build up a collection of the Stanley wood bottom transitional planes. With each one that I have restored I get a little better at tuning them. Once you figure out how to get them all tuned and set right they are really fine working planes.
> 
> The #34 Jointer was one of the trans planes that was at the top of my want list. At 30" long it is the longest plane that Stanley ever produced. This plane is not really an easy one to find and I had been on the watch for one for a while. Thanks to a fellow LJ member I was finally able to get my hands on one.
> 
> Here is a before picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plane was in decent shape but it did have one big issue and that was the wooden body was cupped. If you look close at the photo you can see the cup. The only other issue was the top of the tote was missing but other then that everything was in good shape.
> 
> I started by taking it apart and I then ran the body through my power jointer to flatten the bottom. I set the jointer to take a very light cut and I just made a bunch of passes until I had taken the cup out. Once I had the bottom flat I then realized there was a big hump on the top. I figured it be best I run it through the planer, again taking really light cuts until I got the high spot out. I also squared up the edges/sides of the plane.
> 
> Here is the sole after it was jointed. Check out the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I had the body square and flat I smoothed it out with a mix of hand planes and some sand paper. I finished the body with BLO and then put a top coat of clear Shellac on.
> 
> Once it was dry I put everything back together and discovered I had a new problem. Somehow (probably due to reducing the thickness of the body) the metal top did not line up right. With the frog adjusted as far forward as it would go it was not far enough to line up even with the iron bedding in the wood body. I decided the only solution to this issue was to plug all the existing mounting holes in the wood, move the metal frame up a little to where I could get the frog to line up and then re drill new mounting holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just used a piece of scrap maple to cut the plugs. The metal top only had to be moved up a little so none of the plugs are visible when the plane is assembled.
> 
> I also re-painted the metal parts.
> 
> With the body done the next step was to repair the tote. To fix the tote I used a small block plane to flatten the break in the tote and then I glued on a piece of maple. I would have tried to match the beech better but I had a piece of maple that was the perfect size and thickness so thats what I used.
> 
> I glued the piece of maple on the tote and used nothing more then a couple pieces of masking tape to clamp it. The tape did a fine job as the glue joint is solid and held up through the shaping process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pictures of the plane completed and in action (Note: the tote was not finished yet at the time of these pictures so I used a tote off one of my other planes)


That is a beautiful job Dan. Congrats again on the #34!


----------



## RGtools

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #34 completely restored. The longest jointer that Stanley made. *
> 
> Its been a while since my last blog on plane restoration. Over the past year I have been trying to build up a collection of the Stanley wood bottom transitional planes. With each one that I have restored I get a little better at tuning them. Once you figure out how to get them all tuned and set right they are really fine working planes.
> 
> The #34 Jointer was one of the trans planes that was at the top of my want list. At 30" long it is the longest plane that Stanley ever produced. This plane is not really an easy one to find and I had been on the watch for one for a while. Thanks to a fellow LJ member I was finally able to get my hands on one.
> 
> Here is a before picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plane was in decent shape but it did have one big issue and that was the wooden body was cupped. If you look close at the photo you can see the cup. The only other issue was the top of the tote was missing but other then that everything was in good shape.
> 
> I started by taking it apart and I then ran the body through my power jointer to flatten the bottom. I set the jointer to take a very light cut and I just made a bunch of passes until I had taken the cup out. Once I had the bottom flat I then realized there was a big hump on the top. I figured it be best I run it through the planer, again taking really light cuts until I got the high spot out. I also squared up the edges/sides of the plane.
> 
> Here is the sole after it was jointed. Check out the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I had the body square and flat I smoothed it out with a mix of hand planes and some sand paper. I finished the body with BLO and then put a top coat of clear Shellac on.
> 
> Once it was dry I put everything back together and discovered I had a new problem. Somehow (probably due to reducing the thickness of the body) the metal top did not line up right. With the frog adjusted as far forward as it would go it was not far enough to line up even with the iron bedding in the wood body. I decided the only solution to this issue was to plug all the existing mounting holes in the wood, move the metal frame up a little to where I could get the frog to line up and then re drill new mounting holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just used a piece of scrap maple to cut the plugs. The metal top only had to be moved up a little so none of the plugs are visible when the plane is assembled.
> 
> I also re-painted the metal parts.
> 
> With the body done the next step was to repair the tote. To fix the tote I used a small block plane to flatten the break in the tote and then I glued on a piece of maple. I would have tried to match the beech better but I had a piece of maple that was the perfect size and thickness so thats what I used.
> 
> I glued the piece of maple on the tote and used nothing more then a couple pieces of masking tape to clamp it. The tape did a fine job as the glue joint is solid and held up through the shaping process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pictures of the plane completed and in action (Note: the tote was not finished yet at the time of these pictures so I used a tote off one of my other planes)


How do you match the finish on a tote repair? This has always mystified me.


----------



## SASmith

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #34 completely restored. The longest jointer that Stanley made. *
> 
> Its been a while since my last blog on plane restoration. Over the past year I have been trying to build up a collection of the Stanley wood bottom transitional planes. With each one that I have restored I get a little better at tuning them. Once you figure out how to get them all tuned and set right they are really fine working planes.
> 
> The #34 Jointer was one of the trans planes that was at the top of my want list. At 30" long it is the longest plane that Stanley ever produced. This plane is not really an easy one to find and I had been on the watch for one for a while. Thanks to a fellow LJ member I was finally able to get my hands on one.
> 
> Here is a before picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plane was in decent shape but it did have one big issue and that was the wooden body was cupped. If you look close at the photo you can see the cup. The only other issue was the top of the tote was missing but other then that everything was in good shape.
> 
> I started by taking it apart and I then ran the body through my power jointer to flatten the bottom. I set the jointer to take a very light cut and I just made a bunch of passes until I had taken the cup out. Once I had the bottom flat I then realized there was a big hump on the top. I figured it be best I run it through the planer, again taking really light cuts until I got the high spot out. I also squared up the edges/sides of the plane.
> 
> Here is the sole after it was jointed. Check out the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I had the body square and flat I smoothed it out with a mix of hand planes and some sand paper. I finished the body with BLO and then put a top coat of clear Shellac on.
> 
> Once it was dry I put everything back together and discovered I had a new problem. Somehow (probably due to reducing the thickness of the body) the metal top did not line up right. With the frog adjusted as far forward as it would go it was not far enough to line up even with the iron bedding in the wood body. I decided the only solution to this issue was to plug all the existing mounting holes in the wood, move the metal frame up a little to where I could get the frog to line up and then re drill new mounting holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just used a piece of scrap maple to cut the plugs. The metal top only had to be moved up a little so none of the plugs are visible when the plane is assembled.
> 
> I also re-painted the metal parts.
> 
> With the body done the next step was to repair the tote. To fix the tote I used a small block plane to flatten the break in the tote and then I glued on a piece of maple. I would have tried to match the beech better but I had a piece of maple that was the perfect size and thickness so thats what I used.
> 
> I glued the piece of maple on the tote and used nothing more then a couple pieces of masking tape to clamp it. The tape did a fine job as the glue joint is solid and held up through the shaping process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pictures of the plane completed and in action (Note: the tote was not finished yet at the time of these pictures so I used a tote off one of my other planes)


Great work on the restoration. I like the two-tone tote.
The last pic really shows that you know how to tune.


----------



## planepassion

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #34 completely restored. The longest jointer that Stanley made. *
> 
> Its been a while since my last blog on plane restoration. Over the past year I have been trying to build up a collection of the Stanley wood bottom transitional planes. With each one that I have restored I get a little better at tuning them. Once you figure out how to get them all tuned and set right they are really fine working planes.
> 
> The #34 Jointer was one of the trans planes that was at the top of my want list. At 30" long it is the longest plane that Stanley ever produced. This plane is not really an easy one to find and I had been on the watch for one for a while. Thanks to a fellow LJ member I was finally able to get my hands on one.
> 
> Here is a before picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plane was in decent shape but it did have one big issue and that was the wooden body was cupped. If you look close at the photo you can see the cup. The only other issue was the top of the tote was missing but other then that everything was in good shape.
> 
> I started by taking it apart and I then ran the body through my power jointer to flatten the bottom. I set the jointer to take a very light cut and I just made a bunch of passes until I had taken the cup out. Once I had the bottom flat I then realized there was a big hump on the top. I figured it be best I run it through the planer, again taking really light cuts until I got the high spot out. I also squared up the edges/sides of the plane.
> 
> Here is the sole after it was jointed. Check out the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I had the body square and flat I smoothed it out with a mix of hand planes and some sand paper. I finished the body with BLO and then put a top coat of clear Shellac on.
> 
> Once it was dry I put everything back together and discovered I had a new problem. Somehow (probably due to reducing the thickness of the body) the metal top did not line up right. With the frog adjusted as far forward as it would go it was not far enough to line up even with the iron bedding in the wood body. I decided the only solution to this issue was to plug all the existing mounting holes in the wood, move the metal frame up a little to where I could get the frog to line up and then re drill new mounting holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just used a piece of scrap maple to cut the plugs. The metal top only had to be moved up a little so none of the plugs are visible when the plane is assembled.
> 
> I also re-painted the metal parts.
> 
> With the body done the next step was to repair the tote. To fix the tote I used a small block plane to flatten the break in the tote and then I glued on a piece of maple. I would have tried to match the beech better but I had a piece of maple that was the perfect size and thickness so thats what I used.
> 
> I glued the piece of maple on the tote and used nothing more then a couple pieces of masking tape to clamp it. The tape did a fine job as the glue joint is solid and held up through the shaping process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pictures of the plane completed and in action (Note: the tote was not finished yet at the time of these pictures so I used a tote off one of my other planes)


Talk about a money shot Dan. Your shavings are sweet. I like the way that you ran into a problem (not lining up) and came up with a solution. I appreciate you sharing it here because as you know, there always seems to be something squirrelly about each restoration. You also probably saved a vintage tool from the firewood pile to take its place once again in a working shop.


----------



## JayT

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #34 completely restored. The longest jointer that Stanley made. *
> 
> Its been a while since my last blog on plane restoration. Over the past year I have been trying to build up a collection of the Stanley wood bottom transitional planes. With each one that I have restored I get a little better at tuning them. Once you figure out how to get them all tuned and set right they are really fine working planes.
> 
> The #34 Jointer was one of the trans planes that was at the top of my want list. At 30" long it is the longest plane that Stanley ever produced. This plane is not really an easy one to find and I had been on the watch for one for a while. Thanks to a fellow LJ member I was finally able to get my hands on one.
> 
> Here is a before picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plane was in decent shape but it did have one big issue and that was the wooden body was cupped. If you look close at the photo you can see the cup. The only other issue was the top of the tote was missing but other then that everything was in good shape.
> 
> I started by taking it apart and I then ran the body through my power jointer to flatten the bottom. I set the jointer to take a very light cut and I just made a bunch of passes until I had taken the cup out. Once I had the bottom flat I then realized there was a big hump on the top. I figured it be best I run it through the planer, again taking really light cuts until I got the high spot out. I also squared up the edges/sides of the plane.
> 
> Here is the sole after it was jointed. Check out the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I had the body square and flat I smoothed it out with a mix of hand planes and some sand paper. I finished the body with BLO and then put a top coat of clear Shellac on.
> 
> Once it was dry I put everything back together and discovered I had a new problem. Somehow (probably due to reducing the thickness of the body) the metal top did not line up right. With the frog adjusted as far forward as it would go it was not far enough to line up even with the iron bedding in the wood body. I decided the only solution to this issue was to plug all the existing mounting holes in the wood, move the metal frame up a little to where I could get the frog to line up and then re drill new mounting holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just used a piece of scrap maple to cut the plugs. The metal top only had to be moved up a little so none of the plugs are visible when the plane is assembled.
> 
> I also re-painted the metal parts.
> 
> With the body done the next step was to repair the tote. To fix the tote I used a small block plane to flatten the break in the tote and then I glued on a piece of maple. I would have tried to match the beech better but I had a piece of maple that was the perfect size and thickness so thats what I used.
> 
> I glued the piece of maple on the tote and used nothing more then a couple pieces of masking tape to clamp it. The tape did a fine job as the glue joint is solid and held up through the shaping process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pictures of the plane completed and in action (Note: the tote was not finished yet at the time of these pictures so I used a tote off one of my other planes)


Dan, I will say it again, Great Job! That 34 came out both functional and beautiful. (The shavings aren't bad either )


----------



## ShaneA

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #34 completely restored. The longest jointer that Stanley made. *
> 
> Its been a while since my last blog on plane restoration. Over the past year I have been trying to build up a collection of the Stanley wood bottom transitional planes. With each one that I have restored I get a little better at tuning them. Once you figure out how to get them all tuned and set right they are really fine working planes.
> 
> The #34 Jointer was one of the trans planes that was at the top of my want list. At 30" long it is the longest plane that Stanley ever produced. This plane is not really an easy one to find and I had been on the watch for one for a while. Thanks to a fellow LJ member I was finally able to get my hands on one.
> 
> Here is a before picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plane was in decent shape but it did have one big issue and that was the wooden body was cupped. If you look close at the photo you can see the cup. The only other issue was the top of the tote was missing but other then that everything was in good shape.
> 
> I started by taking it apart and I then ran the body through my power jointer to flatten the bottom. I set the jointer to take a very light cut and I just made a bunch of passes until I had taken the cup out. Once I had the bottom flat I then realized there was a big hump on the top. I figured it be best I run it through the planer, again taking really light cuts until I got the high spot out. I also squared up the edges/sides of the plane.
> 
> Here is the sole after it was jointed. Check out the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I had the body square and flat I smoothed it out with a mix of hand planes and some sand paper. I finished the body with BLO and then put a top coat of clear Shellac on.
> 
> Once it was dry I put everything back together and discovered I had a new problem. Somehow (probably due to reducing the thickness of the body) the metal top did not line up right. With the frog adjusted as far forward as it would go it was not far enough to line up even with the iron bedding in the wood body. I decided the only solution to this issue was to plug all the existing mounting holes in the wood, move the metal frame up a little to where I could get the frog to line up and then re drill new mounting holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just used a piece of scrap maple to cut the plugs. The metal top only had to be moved up a little so none of the plugs are visible when the plane is assembled.
> 
> I also re-painted the metal parts.
> 
> With the body done the next step was to repair the tote. To fix the tote I used a small block plane to flatten the break in the tote and then I glued on a piece of maple. I would have tried to match the beech better but I had a piece of maple that was the perfect size and thickness so thats what I used.
> 
> I glued the piece of maple on the tote and used nothing more then a couple pieces of masking tape to clamp it. The tape did a fine job as the glue joint is solid and held up through the shaping process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pictures of the plane completed and in action (Note: the tote was not finished yet at the time of these pictures so I used a tote off one of my other planes)


Really looks nice Dan. Well done


----------



## Kentuk55

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #34 completely restored. The longest jointer that Stanley made. *
> 
> Its been a while since my last blog on plane restoration. Over the past year I have been trying to build up a collection of the Stanley wood bottom transitional planes. With each one that I have restored I get a little better at tuning them. Once you figure out how to get them all tuned and set right they are really fine working planes.
> 
> The #34 Jointer was one of the trans planes that was at the top of my want list. At 30" long it is the longest plane that Stanley ever produced. This plane is not really an easy one to find and I had been on the watch for one for a while. Thanks to a fellow LJ member I was finally able to get my hands on one.
> 
> Here is a before picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plane was in decent shape but it did have one big issue and that was the wooden body was cupped. If you look close at the photo you can see the cup. The only other issue was the top of the tote was missing but other then that everything was in good shape.
> 
> I started by taking it apart and I then ran the body through my power jointer to flatten the bottom. I set the jointer to take a very light cut and I just made a bunch of passes until I had taken the cup out. Once I had the bottom flat I then realized there was a big hump on the top. I figured it be best I run it through the planer, again taking really light cuts until I got the high spot out. I also squared up the edges/sides of the plane.
> 
> Here is the sole after it was jointed. Check out the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I had the body square and flat I smoothed it out with a mix of hand planes and some sand paper. I finished the body with BLO and then put a top coat of clear Shellac on.
> 
> Once it was dry I put everything back together and discovered I had a new problem. Somehow (probably due to reducing the thickness of the body) the metal top did not line up right. With the frog adjusted as far forward as it would go it was not far enough to line up even with the iron bedding in the wood body. I decided the only solution to this issue was to plug all the existing mounting holes in the wood, move the metal frame up a little to where I could get the frog to line up and then re drill new mounting holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just used a piece of scrap maple to cut the plugs. The metal top only had to be moved up a little so none of the plugs are visible when the plane is assembled.
> 
> I also re-painted the metal parts.
> 
> With the body done the next step was to repair the tote. To fix the tote I used a small block plane to flatten the break in the tote and then I glued on a piece of maple. I would have tried to match the beech better but I had a piece of maple that was the perfect size and thickness so thats what I used.
> 
> I glued the piece of maple on the tote and used nothing more then a couple pieces of masking tape to clamp it. The tape did a fine job as the glue joint is solid and held up through the shaping process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pictures of the plane completed and in action (Note: the tote was not finished yet at the time of these pictures so I used a tote off one of my other planes)


Rockin Restore as usual.


----------



## Bertha

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #34 completely restored. The longest jointer that Stanley made. *
> 
> Its been a while since my last blog on plane restoration. Over the past year I have been trying to build up a collection of the Stanley wood bottom transitional planes. With each one that I have restored I get a little better at tuning them. Once you figure out how to get them all tuned and set right they are really fine working planes.
> 
> The #34 Jointer was one of the trans planes that was at the top of my want list. At 30" long it is the longest plane that Stanley ever produced. This plane is not really an easy one to find and I had been on the watch for one for a while. Thanks to a fellow LJ member I was finally able to get my hands on one.
> 
> Here is a before picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plane was in decent shape but it did have one big issue and that was the wooden body was cupped. If you look close at the photo you can see the cup. The only other issue was the top of the tote was missing but other then that everything was in good shape.
> 
> I started by taking it apart and I then ran the body through my power jointer to flatten the bottom. I set the jointer to take a very light cut and I just made a bunch of passes until I had taken the cup out. Once I had the bottom flat I then realized there was a big hump on the top. I figured it be best I run it through the planer, again taking really light cuts until I got the high spot out. I also squared up the edges/sides of the plane.
> 
> Here is the sole after it was jointed. Check out the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I had the body square and flat I smoothed it out with a mix of hand planes and some sand paper. I finished the body with BLO and then put a top coat of clear Shellac on.
> 
> Once it was dry I put everything back together and discovered I had a new problem. Somehow (probably due to reducing the thickness of the body) the metal top did not line up right. With the frog adjusted as far forward as it would go it was not far enough to line up even with the iron bedding in the wood body. I decided the only solution to this issue was to plug all the existing mounting holes in the wood, move the metal frame up a little to where I could get the frog to line up and then re drill new mounting holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just used a piece of scrap maple to cut the plugs. The metal top only had to be moved up a little so none of the plugs are visible when the plane is assembled.
> 
> I also re-painted the metal parts.
> 
> With the body done the next step was to repair the tote. To fix the tote I used a small block plane to flatten the break in the tote and then I glued on a piece of maple. I would have tried to match the beech better but I had a piece of maple that was the perfect size and thickness so thats what I used.
> 
> I glued the piece of maple on the tote and used nothing more then a couple pieces of masking tape to clamp it. The tape did a fine job as the glue joint is solid and held up through the shaping process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pictures of the plane completed and in action (Note: the tote was not finished yet at the time of these pictures so I used a tote off one of my other planes)


Still my favorite restore to date. Simply awesome.


----------



## Lifesaver2000

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #34 completely restored. The longest jointer that Stanley made. *
> 
> Its been a while since my last blog on plane restoration. Over the past year I have been trying to build up a collection of the Stanley wood bottom transitional planes. With each one that I have restored I get a little better at tuning them. Once you figure out how to get them all tuned and set right they are really fine working planes.
> 
> The #34 Jointer was one of the trans planes that was at the top of my want list. At 30" long it is the longest plane that Stanley ever produced. This plane is not really an easy one to find and I had been on the watch for one for a while. Thanks to a fellow LJ member I was finally able to get my hands on one.
> 
> Here is a before picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plane was in decent shape but it did have one big issue and that was the wooden body was cupped. If you look close at the photo you can see the cup. The only other issue was the top of the tote was missing but other then that everything was in good shape.
> 
> I started by taking it apart and I then ran the body through my power jointer to flatten the bottom. I set the jointer to take a very light cut and I just made a bunch of passes until I had taken the cup out. Once I had the bottom flat I then realized there was a big hump on the top. I figured it be best I run it through the planer, again taking really light cuts until I got the high spot out. I also squared up the edges/sides of the plane.
> 
> Here is the sole after it was jointed. Check out the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I had the body square and flat I smoothed it out with a mix of hand planes and some sand paper. I finished the body with BLO and then put a top coat of clear Shellac on.
> 
> Once it was dry I put everything back together and discovered I had a new problem. Somehow (probably due to reducing the thickness of the body) the metal top did not line up right. With the frog adjusted as far forward as it would go it was not far enough to line up even with the iron bedding in the wood body. I decided the only solution to this issue was to plug all the existing mounting holes in the wood, move the metal frame up a little to where I could get the frog to line up and then re drill new mounting holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just used a piece of scrap maple to cut the plugs. The metal top only had to be moved up a little so none of the plugs are visible when the plane is assembled.
> 
> I also re-painted the metal parts.
> 
> With the body done the next step was to repair the tote. To fix the tote I used a small block plane to flatten the break in the tote and then I glued on a piece of maple. I would have tried to match the beech better but I had a piece of maple that was the perfect size and thickness so thats what I used.
> 
> I glued the piece of maple on the tote and used nothing more then a couple pieces of masking tape to clamp it. The tape did a fine job as the glue joint is solid and held up through the shaping process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pictures of the plane completed and in action (Note: the tote was not finished yet at the time of these pictures so I used a tote off one of my other planes)


Nice to see how to fix that tote. I have one on a #605 that is broken in the same way that I need to fix.


----------



## mochoa

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #34 completely restored. The longest jointer that Stanley made. *
> 
> Its been a while since my last blog on plane restoration. Over the past year I have been trying to build up a collection of the Stanley wood bottom transitional planes. With each one that I have restored I get a little better at tuning them. Once you figure out how to get them all tuned and set right they are really fine working planes.
> 
> The #34 Jointer was one of the trans planes that was at the top of my want list. At 30" long it is the longest plane that Stanley ever produced. This plane is not really an easy one to find and I had been on the watch for one for a while. Thanks to a fellow LJ member I was finally able to get my hands on one.
> 
> Here is a before picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plane was in decent shape but it did have one big issue and that was the wooden body was cupped. If you look close at the photo you can see the cup. The only other issue was the top of the tote was missing but other then that everything was in good shape.
> 
> I started by taking it apart and I then ran the body through my power jointer to flatten the bottom. I set the jointer to take a very light cut and I just made a bunch of passes until I had taken the cup out. Once I had the bottom flat I then realized there was a big hump on the top. I figured it be best I run it through the planer, again taking really light cuts until I got the high spot out. I also squared up the edges/sides of the plane.
> 
> Here is the sole after it was jointed. Check out the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I had the body square and flat I smoothed it out with a mix of hand planes and some sand paper. I finished the body with BLO and then put a top coat of clear Shellac on.
> 
> Once it was dry I put everything back together and discovered I had a new problem. Somehow (probably due to reducing the thickness of the body) the metal top did not line up right. With the frog adjusted as far forward as it would go it was not far enough to line up even with the iron bedding in the wood body. I decided the only solution to this issue was to plug all the existing mounting holes in the wood, move the metal frame up a little to where I could get the frog to line up and then re drill new mounting holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just used a piece of scrap maple to cut the plugs. The metal top only had to be moved up a little so none of the plugs are visible when the plane is assembled.
> 
> I also re-painted the metal parts.
> 
> With the body done the next step was to repair the tote. To fix the tote I used a small block plane to flatten the break in the tote and then I glued on a piece of maple. I would have tried to match the beech better but I had a piece of maple that was the perfect size and thickness so thats what I used.
> 
> I glued the piece of maple on the tote and used nothing more then a couple pieces of masking tape to clamp it. The tape did a fine job as the glue joint is solid and held up through the shaping process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pictures of the plane completed and in action (Note: the tote was not finished yet at the time of these pictures so I used a tote off one of my other planes)


Another amazing restore Dan!


----------



## Oakum

Dcase said:


> *Stanley #34 completely restored. The longest jointer that Stanley made. *
> 
> Its been a while since my last blog on plane restoration. Over the past year I have been trying to build up a collection of the Stanley wood bottom transitional planes. With each one that I have restored I get a little better at tuning them. Once you figure out how to get them all tuned and set right they are really fine working planes.
> 
> The #34 Jointer was one of the trans planes that was at the top of my want list. At 30" long it is the longest plane that Stanley ever produced. This plane is not really an easy one to find and I had been on the watch for one for a while. Thanks to a fellow LJ member I was finally able to get my hands on one.
> 
> Here is a before picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plane was in decent shape but it did have one big issue and that was the wooden body was cupped. If you look close at the photo you can see the cup. The only other issue was the top of the tote was missing but other then that everything was in good shape.
> 
> I started by taking it apart and I then ran the body through my power jointer to flatten the bottom. I set the jointer to take a very light cut and I just made a bunch of passes until I had taken the cup out. Once I had the bottom flat I then realized there was a big hump on the top. I figured it be best I run it through the planer, again taking really light cuts until I got the high spot out. I also squared up the edges/sides of the plane.
> 
> Here is the sole after it was jointed. Check out the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I had the body square and flat I smoothed it out with a mix of hand planes and some sand paper. I finished the body with BLO and then put a top coat of clear Shellac on.
> 
> Once it was dry I put everything back together and discovered I had a new problem. Somehow (probably due to reducing the thickness of the body) the metal top did not line up right. With the frog adjusted as far forward as it would go it was not far enough to line up even with the iron bedding in the wood body. I decided the only solution to this issue was to plug all the existing mounting holes in the wood, move the metal frame up a little to where I could get the frog to line up and then re drill new mounting holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just used a piece of scrap maple to cut the plugs. The metal top only had to be moved up a little so none of the plugs are visible when the plane is assembled.
> 
> I also re-painted the metal parts.
> 
> With the body done the next step was to repair the tote. To fix the tote I used a small block plane to flatten the break in the tote and then I glued on a piece of maple. I would have tried to match the beech better but I had a piece of maple that was the perfect size and thickness so thats what I used.
> 
> I glued the piece of maple on the tote and used nothing more then a couple pieces of masking tape to clamp it. The tape did a fine job as the glue joint is solid and held up through the shaping process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pictures of the plane completed and in action (Note: the tote was not finished yet at the time of these pictures so I used a tote off one of my other planes)


I know I'm really late in contributing to this thread, but I really like the old transitional planes… There's nothing quite like riding a piece of hardwood, especially over a hardwood workpiece.

It's also neat how the plane, with a little bit of innovation and creating a new sole or whole wooden body, can become another plane entirely, or even a brand new style of plane of your own design.

During my years of collecting and restoration though, I've noticed the inclination for transitional planes to sometimes bow from end to end. There was a trend of this occurring more often than not in the longer planes such as jointers. It seemed to me that the axis of the bow occurs many times under the hollowed-out section where the frog, or the wedge and blade was housed, being the least dense and supported section of the wood body.

Using the method I developed to bend various wood pieces for chair building, I took one of these bowed or warped plane bodies minus the metal hardware and soaked it for 3 or 4 days in a tub of water. Then I microwaved it (my micro can do 22 inches max) for 4 minutes on high, or until hot to the touch… and clamped it down to a flat surface with a small 1/8 inch shim just under the mouth opening or axis of the bow. The shim is a guesstimate of how much spring-back is likely to occur after the plane cools and is released from the clamps.

Sometimes this method requires more than one attempt to get the plane body to cool and dry flat; but the benefits are a return to the correct body and sole dimensions and holes lining up for reassembly.


----------



## Dcase

*A collection of before/after photos of planes I have restored*

Rather then doing a separate blog on all of these I figured it would be easier to just post a blog of before and after shots of some of my plane restorations… Some of these have been completely restored and some just cleaned up and tuned.

*Stanley #40 1/2 Scrub Plane*


















*Stanley #10 Bench Rabbet Plane*



















*Stanley #113 Compass Plane*


















*Stanley #78 Rabbet Plane*


















*Wooden Skew Rabbet plane (Gift from fellow LJ Member)*



















*Stanley #45 Combination Plane*


















*Sargent #2204 Small Steel Block Plane*


















*Vaughn & Bushnell #703? (iron and lever cap are not original to plane) No before picture.*










Thats all for now… I will finish with a family photo of my growing collection.


----------



## mochoa

Dcase said:


> *A collection of before/after photos of planes I have restored*
> 
> Rather then doing a separate blog on all of these I figured it would be easier to just post a blog of before and after shots of some of my plane restorations… Some of these have been completely restored and some just cleaned up and tuned.
> 
> *Stanley #40 1/2 Scrub Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #10 Bench Rabbet Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #113 Compass Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #78 Rabbet Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Wooden Skew Rabbet plane (Gift from fellow LJ Member)*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #45 Combination Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Sargent #2204 Small Steel Block Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Vaughn & Bushnell #703? (iron and lever cap are not original to plane) No before picture.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats all for now… I will finish with a family photo of my growing collection.


Nice! Dan I'm actually surprised that all of your planes would fit on that bench. Are you sure there arent some more stashed away somewhere?


----------



## AnthonyReed

Dcase said:


> *A collection of before/after photos of planes I have restored*
> 
> Rather then doing a separate blog on all of these I figured it would be easier to just post a blog of before and after shots of some of my plane restorations… Some of these have been completely restored and some just cleaned up and tuned.
> 
> *Stanley #40 1/2 Scrub Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #10 Bench Rabbet Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #113 Compass Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #78 Rabbet Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Wooden Skew Rabbet plane (Gift from fellow LJ Member)*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #45 Combination Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Sargent #2204 Small Steel Block Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Vaughn & Bushnell #703? (iron and lever cap are not original to plane) No before picture.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats all for now… I will finish with a family photo of my growing collection.


Outstanding resurrections as always Dan.

That family shot is still impressive.


----------



## SASmith

Dcase said:


> *A collection of before/after photos of planes I have restored*
> 
> Rather then doing a separate blog on all of these I figured it would be easier to just post a blog of before and after shots of some of my plane restorations… Some of these have been completely restored and some just cleaned up and tuned.
> 
> *Stanley #40 1/2 Scrub Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #10 Bench Rabbet Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #113 Compass Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #78 Rabbet Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Wooden Skew Rabbet plane (Gift from fellow LJ Member)*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #45 Combination Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Sargent #2204 Small Steel Block Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Vaughn & Bushnell #703? (iron and lever cap are not original to plane) No before picture.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats all for now… I will finish with a family photo of my growing collection.


That is quite the family photo.


----------



## canadianchips

Dcase said:


> *A collection of before/after photos of planes I have restored*
> 
> Rather then doing a separate blog on all of these I figured it would be easier to just post a blog of before and after shots of some of my plane restorations… Some of these have been completely restored and some just cleaned up and tuned.
> 
> *Stanley #40 1/2 Scrub Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #10 Bench Rabbet Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #113 Compass Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #78 Rabbet Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Wooden Skew Rabbet plane (Gift from fellow LJ Member)*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #45 Combination Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Sargent #2204 Small Steel Block Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Vaughn & Bushnell #703? (iron and lever cap are not original to plane) No before picture.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats all for now… I will finish with a family photo of my growing collection.


Looks like 70+ in your family. Ain't it fun ? And it doesn't take all that long to get that many…....*I KNOW all to well.*
Hope you enjoy adding to the family of planes as much as I did.


----------



## donwilwol

Dcase said:


> *A collection of before/after photos of planes I have restored*
> 
> Rather then doing a separate blog on all of these I figured it would be easier to just post a blog of before and after shots of some of my plane restorations… Some of these have been completely restored and some just cleaned up and tuned.
> 
> *Stanley #40 1/2 Scrub Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #10 Bench Rabbet Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #113 Compass Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #78 Rabbet Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Wooden Skew Rabbet plane (Gift from fellow LJ Member)*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #45 Combination Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Sargent #2204 Small Steel Block Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Vaughn & Bushnell #703? (iron and lever cap are not original to plane) No before picture.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats all for now… I will finish with a family photo of my growing collection.


nice work Dan. I love the photos. Your building quit a collection.


----------



## ShaneA

Dcase said:


> *A collection of before/after photos of planes I have restored*
> 
> Rather then doing a separate blog on all of these I figured it would be easier to just post a blog of before and after shots of some of my plane restorations… Some of these have been completely restored and some just cleaned up and tuned.
> 
> *Stanley #40 1/2 Scrub Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #10 Bench Rabbet Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #113 Compass Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #78 Rabbet Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Wooden Skew Rabbet plane (Gift from fellow LJ Member)*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #45 Combination Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Sargent #2204 Small Steel Block Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Vaughn & Bushnell #703? (iron and lever cap are not original to plane) No before picture.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats all for now… I will finish with a family photo of my growing collection.


Bravo, bravo! great work on these sir. Your family is growing quickly, thanks for sharing.


----------



## blackcherry

Dcase said:


> *A collection of before/after photos of planes I have restored*
> 
> Rather then doing a separate blog on all of these I figured it would be easier to just post a blog of before and after shots of some of my plane restorations… Some of these have been completely restored and some just cleaned up and tuned.
> 
> *Stanley #40 1/2 Scrub Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #10 Bench Rabbet Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #113 Compass Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #78 Rabbet Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Wooden Skew Rabbet plane (Gift from fellow LJ Member)*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #45 Combination Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Sargent #2204 Small Steel Block Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Vaughn & Bushnell #703? (iron and lever cap are not original to plane) No before picture.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats all for now… I will finish with a family photo of my growing collection.


Dan you need a intervention or my mailing address…lol nice collection of planes…Blkcherry


----------



## Kentuk55

Dcase said:


> *A collection of before/after photos of planes I have restored*
> 
> Rather then doing a separate blog on all of these I figured it would be easier to just post a blog of before and after shots of some of my plane restorations… Some of these have been completely restored and some just cleaned up and tuned.
> 
> *Stanley #40 1/2 Scrub Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #10 Bench Rabbet Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #113 Compass Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #78 Rabbet Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Wooden Skew Rabbet plane (Gift from fellow LJ Member)*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #45 Combination Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Sargent #2204 Small Steel Block Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Vaughn & Bushnell #703? (iron and lever cap are not original to plane) No before picture.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats all for now… I will finish with a family photo of my growing collection.


Yer jus plane good Dan.


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## GaryD

Dcase said:


> *A collection of before/after photos of planes I have restored*
> 
> Rather then doing a separate blog on all of these I figured it would be easier to just post a blog of before and after shots of some of my plane restorations… Some of these have been completely restored and some just cleaned up and tuned.
> 
> *Stanley #40 1/2 Scrub Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #10 Bench Rabbet Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #113 Compass Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #78 Rabbet Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Wooden Skew Rabbet plane (Gift from fellow LJ Member)*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #45 Combination Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Sargent #2204 Small Steel Block Plane*
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> *Vaughn & Bushnell #703? (iron and lever cap are not original to plane) No before picture.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats all for now… I will finish with a family photo of my growing collection.


Nice collection,, I suffer from the same "sickness" I dont have nearly that many, but am working on it.


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## WhoMe

Dcase said:


> *A collection of before/after photos of planes I have restored*
> 
> Rather then doing a separate blog on all of these I figured it would be easier to just post a blog of before and after shots of some of my plane restorations… Some of these have been completely restored and some just cleaned up and tuned.
> 
> *Stanley #40 1/2 Scrub Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #10 Bench Rabbet Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #113 Compass Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #78 Rabbet Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Wooden Skew Rabbet plane (Gift from fellow LJ Member)*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #45 Combination Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Sargent #2204 Small Steel Block Plane*
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Vaughn & Bushnell #703? (iron and lever cap are not original to plane) No before picture.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats all for now… I will finish with a family photo of my growing collection.


WOW Dan, that is quite a collection. I bet you never have time to use them all… lol.
Your #40 and #10 are on my wish list too. Nice restores on all of them. 
Unfortunately, I have been bitten by the hand plane bug myself and am just starting out. Just bought a #3 and #5 1/2C in the past month. I have a lot more I want. DARN sickness. Glad to see I don't have it as bad as others….yet.


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## lysdexic

Dcase said:


> *A collection of before/after photos of planes I have restored*
> 
> Rather then doing a separate blog on all of these I figured it would be easier to just post a blog of before and after shots of some of my plane restorations… Some of these have been completely restored and some just cleaned up and tuned.
> 
> *Stanley #40 1/2 Scrub Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #10 Bench Rabbet Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #113 Compass Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> *Stanley #78 Rabbet Plane*
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Wooden Skew Rabbet plane (Gift from fellow LJ Member)*
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> *Stanley #45 Combination Plane*
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> *Sargent #2204 Small Steel Block Plane*
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Vaughn & Bushnell #703? (iron and lever cap are not original to plane) No before picture.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats all for now… I will finish with a family photo of my growing collection.


Interesting that you did away with the handle on the wooden skew rabbet.


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## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *A collection of before/after photos of planes I have restored*
> 
> Rather then doing a separate blog on all of these I figured it would be easier to just post a blog of before and after shots of some of my plane restorations… Some of these have been completely restored and some just cleaned up and tuned.
> 
> *Stanley #40 1/2 Scrub Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #10 Bench Rabbet Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #113 Compass Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #78 Rabbet Plane*
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Wooden Skew Rabbet plane (Gift from fellow LJ Member)*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #45 Combination Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> *Sargent #2204 Small Steel Block Plane*
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> *Vaughn & Bushnell #703? (iron and lever cap are not original to plane) No before picture.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats all for now… I will finish with a family photo of my growing collection.


Scott, you cant really tell from the before picture but the tote on the skewed rabbet was toast. It had been broken in 3 places and it was also nailed back together in a couple spots. Chunks of the bottom were missing and there was no way I could have restored the tote. I started making a new one and it was a little tricky because the bottom of the tote fits in a mortise thats cut in the plane. I spent a good deal of time getting a blank cut out to fit the mortise but when I went to shape it the damn thing snapped on me. I was being a bit rough with the rasp I guess… I didn't want to spend another min on it so I just cut it off even with the body and decided to go toteless… Its perfectly comfortable to hold while using it without the tote there though.


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## jak12

Dcase said:


> *A collection of before/after photos of planes I have restored*
> 
> Rather then doing a separate blog on all of these I figured it would be easier to just post a blog of before and after shots of some of my plane restorations… Some of these have been completely restored and some just cleaned up and tuned.
> 
> *Stanley #40 1/2 Scrub Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #10 Bench Rabbet Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #113 Compass Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #78 Rabbet Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Wooden Skew Rabbet plane (Gift from fellow LJ Member)*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stanley #45 Combination Plane*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Sargent #2204 Small Steel Block Plane*
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Vaughn & Bushnell #703? (iron and lever cap are not original to plane) No before picture.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats all for now… I will finish with a family photo of my growing collection.


Dan,
I'm restoring a bailey #5 and am having difficulty shining and polishing the blade, chip breaker and lever cap. Can you offer any insight as to what you've done to address steel components that gave you trouble? How do you evaluate/determine if these components have the potential to shine? Which factors make you temper your expectations about how shiny these components will get? Pitting, etc?
Thank you!


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## Dcase

*Very rough horned wood plane given a new life. *

Why bother taking the time to restore this plane? It is not worth anything and you can find many just like it for dirt cheap that are probably in much better shape.

I restored this plane because I knew there were only two options. Either I restore it or the plane ends up getting tossed because I doubt many would have even bothered spending the time that I spent on this thing…

The plane looked like it was possibly re-soled once before. the sole that was on the plane was coming apart at the glue joint and was just in really bad shape. I used a chisel to break off the worn sole. Once the old sole was off I jointed the bottom of the plane and glued on a new wood sole. I used a piece of mahogany mainly because I had a piece the right thickness and size.




























After the glue dried I used a plane & rasp to flush the new sole with the body.










Now comes the fun part of chopping out the new mouth. Using chisels I carefully follow the old bed as a guide. You want to be really careful not to chip out the mouth when chopping through. I put a strip of masking tape over the mouth area as I was chopping to help prevent getting chip out.



















I then planed and sanded the plane body. As I was doing this I noticed that the horn was a little loose. I decided the best way to tighten it back up was to just run a screw through it. I plugged the screw hole with a mahogany plug.










Finished the plane off with some BLO and paste wax.. Sharpened the iron, tuned the chip breaker and got the plane taking some shavings again.


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## vikingcape

Dcase said:


> *Very rough horned wood plane given a new life. *
> 
> Why bother taking the time to restore this plane? It is not worth anything and you can find many just like it for dirt cheap that are probably in much better shape.
> 
> I restored this plane because I knew there were only two options. Either I restore it or the plane ends up getting tossed because I doubt many would have even bothered spending the time that I spent on this thing…
> 
> The plane looked like it was possibly re-soled once before. the sole that was on the plane was coming apart at the glue joint and was just in really bad shape. I used a chisel to break off the worn sole. Once the old sole was off I jointed the bottom of the plane and glued on a new wood sole. I used a piece of mahogany mainly because I had a piece the right thickness and size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> After the glue dried I used a plane & rasp to flush the new sole with the body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now comes the fun part of chopping out the new mouth. Using chisels I carefully follow the old bed as a guide. You want to be really careful not to chip out the mouth when chopping through. I put a strip of masking tape over the mouth area as I was chopping to help prevent getting chip out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then planed and sanded the plane body. As I was doing this I noticed that the horn was a little loose. I decided the best way to tighten it back up was to just run a screw through it. I plugged the screw hole with a mahogany plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finished the plane off with some BLO and paste wax.. Sharpened the iron, tuned the chip breaker and got the plane taking some shavings again.


Great work Dan. Really cool to see a tool meant for work to be put back to its intended use. It's also nice to see a restoration of the wooden planes, as it seems in most cases it's usually the metal ones. Really neat to see that. I am not really a hand tool guy, is that a smoother? Or a Jack? Either way, nice job


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## grizzman

Dcase said:


> *Very rough horned wood plane given a new life. *
> 
> Why bother taking the time to restore this plane? It is not worth anything and you can find many just like it for dirt cheap that are probably in much better shape.
> 
> I restored this plane because I knew there were only two options. Either I restore it or the plane ends up getting tossed because I doubt many would have even bothered spending the time that I spent on this thing…
> 
> The plane looked like it was possibly re-soled once before. the sole that was on the plane was coming apart at the glue joint and was just in really bad shape. I used a chisel to break off the worn sole. Once the old sole was off I jointed the bottom of the plane and glued on a new wood sole. I used a piece of mahogany mainly because I had a piece the right thickness and size.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> After the glue dried I used a plane & rasp to flush the new sole with the body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now comes the fun part of chopping out the new mouth. Using chisels I carefully follow the old bed as a guide. You want to be really careful not to chip out the mouth when chopping through. I put a strip of masking tape over the mouth area as I was chopping to help prevent getting chip out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then planed and sanded the plane body. As I was doing this I noticed that the horn was a little loose. I decided the best way to tighten it back up was to just run a screw through it. I plugged the screw hole with a mahogany plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finished the plane off with some BLO and paste wax.. Sharpened the iron, tuned the chip breaker and got the plane taking some shavings again.


i think it was a great move to restore this plane, i believe these old tools deserve the respect , and bringing it back into service is where it belongs, really nice job.and if nothing else, it can be used as a protection against possums,


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## terryR

Dcase said:


> *Very rough horned wood plane given a new life. *
> 
> Why bother taking the time to restore this plane? It is not worth anything and you can find many just like it for dirt cheap that are probably in much better shape.
> 
> I restored this plane because I knew there were only two options. Either I restore it or the plane ends up getting tossed because I doubt many would have even bothered spending the time that I spent on this thing…
> 
> The plane looked like it was possibly re-soled once before. the sole that was on the plane was coming apart at the glue joint and was just in really bad shape. I used a chisel to break off the worn sole. Once the old sole was off I jointed the bottom of the plane and glued on a new wood sole. I used a piece of mahogany mainly because I had a piece the right thickness and size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> After the glue dried I used a plane & rasp to flush the new sole with the body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now comes the fun part of chopping out the new mouth. Using chisels I carefully follow the old bed as a guide. You want to be really careful not to chip out the mouth when chopping through. I put a strip of masking tape over the mouth area as I was chopping to help prevent getting chip out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then planed and sanded the plane body. As I was doing this I noticed that the horn was a little loose. I decided the best way to tighten it back up was to just run a screw through it. I plugged the screw hole with a mahogany plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finished the plane off with some BLO and paste wax.. Sharpened the iron, tuned the chip breaker and got the plane taking some shavings again.


Nice restore and shavings, Dan! And thanks for the lessons…since I have a trans plane that needs more wood on the base…just follow Dan! 

That's a cool plane. Based on the shape of the front horn, do ya push or pull this one? Or both?


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## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *Very rough horned wood plane given a new life. *
> 
> Why bother taking the time to restore this plane? It is not worth anything and you can find many just like it for dirt cheap that are probably in much better shape.
> 
> I restored this plane because I knew there were only two options. Either I restore it or the plane ends up getting tossed because I doubt many would have even bothered spending the time that I spent on this thing…
> 
> The plane looked like it was possibly re-soled once before. the sole that was on the plane was coming apart at the glue joint and was just in really bad shape. I used a chisel to break off the worn sole. Once the old sole was off I jointed the bottom of the plane and glued on a new wood sole. I used a piece of mahogany mainly because I had a piece the right thickness and size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue dried I used a plane & rasp to flush the new sole with the body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now comes the fun part of chopping out the new mouth. Using chisels I carefully follow the old bed as a guide. You want to be really careful not to chip out the mouth when chopping through. I put a strip of masking tape over the mouth area as I was chopping to help prevent getting chip out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then planed and sanded the plane body. As I was doing this I noticed that the horn was a little loose. I decided the best way to tighten it back up was to just run a screw through it. I plugged the screw hole with a mahogany plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finished the plane off with some BLO and paste wax.. Sharpened the iron, tuned the chip breaker and got the plane taking some shavings again.


Kaleb, I have it tuned to be a smooth plane. It is shorter then a metal jack plane.

Grizz- I almost forgot about that whole possum thing.. haha


----------



## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *Very rough horned wood plane given a new life. *
> 
> Why bother taking the time to restore this plane? It is not worth anything and you can find many just like it for dirt cheap that are probably in much better shape.
> 
> I restored this plane because I knew there were only two options. Either I restore it or the plane ends up getting tossed because I doubt many would have even bothered spending the time that I spent on this thing…
> 
> The plane looked like it was possibly re-soled once before. the sole that was on the plane was coming apart at the glue joint and was just in really bad shape. I used a chisel to break off the worn sole. Once the old sole was off I jointed the bottom of the plane and glued on a new wood sole. I used a piece of mahogany mainly because I had a piece the right thickness and size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue dried I used a plane & rasp to flush the new sole with the body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now comes the fun part of chopping out the new mouth. Using chisels I carefully follow the old bed as a guide. You want to be really careful not to chip out the mouth when chopping through. I put a strip of masking tape over the mouth area as I was chopping to help prevent getting chip out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then planed and sanded the plane body. As I was doing this I noticed that the horn was a little loose. I decided the best way to tighten it back up was to just run a screw through it. I plugged the screw hole with a mahogany plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finished the plane off with some BLO and paste wax.. Sharpened the iron, tuned the chip breaker and got the plane taking some shavings again.


Terry- The way I gripped the plane was with my left thumb/palm around the horn and 4 fingers on my right hand at the back of the plane… It was very comfortable to grip that way so I am pretty sure that is the grip it was designed for.

The plane was made by Ohio Tool co. That is pretty much all I know about it. I see a lot of German planes with the horn style.


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## Big_Eddy

Dcase said:


> *Very rough horned wood plane given a new life. *
> 
> Why bother taking the time to restore this plane? It is not worth anything and you can find many just like it for dirt cheap that are probably in much better shape.
> 
> I restored this plane because I knew there were only two options. Either I restore it or the plane ends up getting tossed because I doubt many would have even bothered spending the time that I spent on this thing…
> 
> The plane looked like it was possibly re-soled once before. the sole that was on the plane was coming apart at the glue joint and was just in really bad shape. I used a chisel to break off the worn sole. Once the old sole was off I jointed the bottom of the plane and glued on a new wood sole. I used a piece of mahogany mainly because I had a piece the right thickness and size.
> 
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> After the glue dried I used a plane & rasp to flush the new sole with the body.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now comes the fun part of chopping out the new mouth. Using chisels I carefully follow the old bed as a guide. You want to be really careful not to chip out the mouth when chopping through. I put a strip of masking tape over the mouth area as I was chopping to help prevent getting chip out.
> 
> 
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> 
> I then planed and sanded the plane body. As I was doing this I noticed that the horn was a little loose. I decided the best way to tighten it back up was to just run a screw through it. I plugged the screw hole with a mahogany plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finished the plane off with some BLO and paste wax.. Sharpened the iron, tuned the chip breaker and got the plane taking some shavings again.


Fantastic job , I wish I had the necessary skills to do such a fine job. I guess I'll stay with turning pens, instant gratification. That works for mw


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## LeeJ

Dcase said:


> *Very rough horned wood plane given a new life. *
> 
> Why bother taking the time to restore this plane? It is not worth anything and you can find many just like it for dirt cheap that are probably in much better shape.
> 
> I restored this plane because I knew there were only two options. Either I restore it or the plane ends up getting tossed because I doubt many would have even bothered spending the time that I spent on this thing…
> 
> The plane looked like it was possibly re-soled once before. the sole that was on the plane was coming apart at the glue joint and was just in really bad shape. I used a chisel to break off the worn sole. Once the old sole was off I jointed the bottom of the plane and glued on a new wood sole. I used a piece of mahogany mainly because I had a piece the right thickness and size.
> 
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> 
> After the glue dried I used a plane & rasp to flush the new sole with the body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now comes the fun part of chopping out the new mouth. Using chisels I carefully follow the old bed as a guide. You want to be really careful not to chip out the mouth when chopping through. I put a strip of masking tape over the mouth area as I was chopping to help prevent getting chip out.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> I then planed and sanded the plane body. As I was doing this I noticed that the horn was a little loose. I decided the best way to tighten it back up was to just run a screw through it. I plugged the screw hole with a mahogany plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finished the plane off with some BLO and paste wax.. Sharpened the iron, tuned the chip breaker and got the plane taking some shavings again.


Great job!

Lee


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## rhett

Dcase said:


> *Very rough horned wood plane given a new life. *
> 
> Why bother taking the time to restore this plane? It is not worth anything and you can find many just like it for dirt cheap that are probably in much better shape.
> 
> I restored this plane because I knew there were only two options. Either I restore it or the plane ends up getting tossed because I doubt many would have even bothered spending the time that I spent on this thing…
> 
> The plane looked like it was possibly re-soled once before. the sole that was on the plane was coming apart at the glue joint and was just in really bad shape. I used a chisel to break off the worn sole. Once the old sole was off I jointed the bottom of the plane and glued on a new wood sole. I used a piece of mahogany mainly because I had a piece the right thickness and size.
> 
> 
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> 
> After the glue dried I used a plane & rasp to flush the new sole with the body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now comes the fun part of chopping out the new mouth. Using chisels I carefully follow the old bed as a guide. You want to be really careful not to chip out the mouth when chopping through. I put a strip of masking tape over the mouth area as I was chopping to help prevent getting chip out.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> I then planed and sanded the plane body. As I was doing this I noticed that the horn was a little loose. I decided the best way to tighten it back up was to just run a screw through it. I plugged the screw hole with a mahogany plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finished the plane off with some BLO and paste wax.. Sharpened the iron, tuned the chip breaker and got the plane taking some shavings again.


Something about using a tool that could have possibly built a museum piece…. Hard to believe that hand planes used to be a common tool in most home tool boxes.


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## donwilwol

Dcase said:


> *Very rough horned wood plane given a new life. *
> 
> Why bother taking the time to restore this plane? It is not worth anything and you can find many just like it for dirt cheap that are probably in much better shape.
> 
> I restored this plane because I knew there were only two options. Either I restore it or the plane ends up getting tossed because I doubt many would have even bothered spending the time that I spent on this thing…
> 
> The plane looked like it was possibly re-soled once before. the sole that was on the plane was coming apart at the glue joint and was just in really bad shape. I used a chisel to break off the worn sole. Once the old sole was off I jointed the bottom of the plane and glued on a new wood sole. I used a piece of mahogany mainly because I had a piece the right thickness and size.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> After the glue dried I used a plane & rasp to flush the new sole with the body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now comes the fun part of chopping out the new mouth. Using chisels I carefully follow the old bed as a guide. You want to be really careful not to chip out the mouth when chopping through. I put a strip of masking tape over the mouth area as I was chopping to help prevent getting chip out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> I then planed and sanded the plane body. As I was doing this I noticed that the horn was a little loose. I decided the best way to tighten it back up was to just run a screw through it. I plugged the screw hole with a mahogany plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finished the plane off with some BLO and paste wax.. Sharpened the iron, tuned the chip breaker and got the plane taking some shavings again.


great restore as usual Dan.


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## woodworker59

Dcase said:


> *Very rough horned wood plane given a new life. *
> 
> Why bother taking the time to restore this plane? It is not worth anything and you can find many just like it for dirt cheap that are probably in much better shape.
> 
> I restored this plane because I knew there were only two options. Either I restore it or the plane ends up getting tossed because I doubt many would have even bothered spending the time that I spent on this thing…
> 
> The plane looked like it was possibly re-soled once before. the sole that was on the plane was coming apart at the glue joint and was just in really bad shape. I used a chisel to break off the worn sole. Once the old sole was off I jointed the bottom of the plane and glued on a new wood sole. I used a piece of mahogany mainly because I had a piece the right thickness and size.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> After the glue dried I used a plane & rasp to flush the new sole with the body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now comes the fun part of chopping out the new mouth. Using chisels I carefully follow the old bed as a guide. You want to be really careful not to chip out the mouth when chopping through. I put a strip of masking tape over the mouth area as I was chopping to help prevent getting chip out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then planed and sanded the plane body. As I was doing this I noticed that the horn was a little loose. I decided the best way to tighten it back up was to just run a screw through it. I plugged the screw hole with a mahogany plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finished the plane off with some BLO and paste wax.. Sharpened the iron, tuned the chip breaker and got the plane taking some shavings again.


let no plane die before its time… what a motto to live by.. works for me.. love the work….Papa


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## Tim457

Dcase said:


> *Very rough horned wood plane given a new life. *
> 
> Why bother taking the time to restore this plane? It is not worth anything and you can find many just like it for dirt cheap that are probably in much better shape.
> 
> I restored this plane because I knew there were only two options. Either I restore it or the plane ends up getting tossed because I doubt many would have even bothered spending the time that I spent on this thing…
> 
> The plane looked like it was possibly re-soled once before. the sole that was on the plane was coming apart at the glue joint and was just in really bad shape. I used a chisel to break off the worn sole. Once the old sole was off I jointed the bottom of the plane and glued on a new wood sole. I used a piece of mahogany mainly because I had a piece the right thickness and size.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> After the glue dried I used a plane & rasp to flush the new sole with the body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now comes the fun part of chopping out the new mouth. Using chisels I carefully follow the old bed as a guide. You want to be really careful not to chip out the mouth when chopping through. I put a strip of masking tape over the mouth area as I was chopping to help prevent getting chip out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then planed and sanded the plane body. As I was doing this I noticed that the horn was a little loose. I decided the best way to tighten it back up was to just run a screw through it. I plugged the screw hole with a mahogany plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finished the plane off with some BLO and paste wax.. Sharpened the iron, tuned the chip breaker and got the plane taking some shavings again.


Really nice job Dan. Looks like I have to do the same thing with a smoother. Wish me luck.


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## Kentuk55

Dcase said:


> *Very rough horned wood plane given a new life. *
> 
> Why bother taking the time to restore this plane? It is not worth anything and you can find many just like it for dirt cheap that are probably in much better shape.
> 
> I restored this plane because I knew there were only two options. Either I restore it or the plane ends up getting tossed because I doubt many would have even bothered spending the time that I spent on this thing…
> 
> The plane looked like it was possibly re-soled once before. the sole that was on the plane was coming apart at the glue joint and was just in really bad shape. I used a chisel to break off the worn sole. Once the old sole was off I jointed the bottom of the plane and glued on a new wood sole. I used a piece of mahogany mainly because I had a piece the right thickness and size.
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> After the glue dried I used a plane & rasp to flush the new sole with the body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now comes the fun part of chopping out the new mouth. Using chisels I carefully follow the old bed as a guide. You want to be really careful not to chip out the mouth when chopping through. I put a strip of masking tape over the mouth area as I was chopping to help prevent getting chip out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then planed and sanded the plane body. As I was doing this I noticed that the horn was a little loose. I decided the best way to tighten it back up was to just run a screw through it. I plugged the screw hole with a mahogany plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finished the plane off with some BLO and paste wax.. Sharpened the iron, tuned the chip breaker and got the plane taking some shavings again.


Really nice re-store


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## stefang

Dcase said:


> *Very rough horned wood plane given a new life. *
> 
> Why bother taking the time to restore this plane? It is not worth anything and you can find many just like it for dirt cheap that are probably in much better shape.
> 
> I restored this plane because I knew there were only two options. Either I restore it or the plane ends up getting tossed because I doubt many would have even bothered spending the time that I spent on this thing…
> 
> The plane looked like it was possibly re-soled once before. the sole that was on the plane was coming apart at the glue joint and was just in really bad shape. I used a chisel to break off the worn sole. Once the old sole was off I jointed the bottom of the plane and glued on a new wood sole. I used a piece of mahogany mainly because I had a piece the right thickness and size.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> After the glue dried I used a plane & rasp to flush the new sole with the body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now comes the fun part of chopping out the new mouth. Using chisels I carefully follow the old bed as a guide. You want to be really careful not to chip out the mouth when chopping through. I put a strip of masking tape over the mouth area as I was chopping to help prevent getting chip out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then planed and sanded the plane body. As I was doing this I noticed that the horn was a little loose. I decided the best way to tighten it back up was to just run a screw through it. I plugged the screw hole with a mahogany plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finished the plane off with some BLO and paste wax.. Sharpened the iron, tuned the chip breaker and got the plane taking some shavings again.


Considering that the really time consuming work on this plane, i.e.; the chiseled throat and the shaped horn was already done, It was surely well worth the effort to restore this plane, and you did a really fine job of it too Dan.


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## planepassion

Dcase said:


> *Very rough horned wood plane given a new life. *
> 
> Why bother taking the time to restore this plane? It is not worth anything and you can find many just like it for dirt cheap that are probably in much better shape.
> 
> I restored this plane because I knew there were only two options. Either I restore it or the plane ends up getting tossed because I doubt many would have even bothered spending the time that I spent on this thing…
> 
> The plane looked like it was possibly re-soled once before. the sole that was on the plane was coming apart at the glue joint and was just in really bad shape. I used a chisel to break off the worn sole. Once the old sole was off I jointed the bottom of the plane and glued on a new wood sole. I used a piece of mahogany mainly because I had a piece the right thickness and size.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> After the glue dried I used a plane & rasp to flush the new sole with the body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now comes the fun part of chopping out the new mouth. Using chisels I carefully follow the old bed as a guide. You want to be really careful not to chip out the mouth when chopping through. I put a strip of masking tape over the mouth area as I was chopping to help prevent getting chip out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then planed and sanded the plane body. As I was doing this I noticed that the horn was a little loose. I decided the best way to tighten it back up was to just run a screw through it. I plugged the screw hole with a mahogany plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finished the plane off with some BLO and paste wax.. Sharpened the iron, tuned the chip breaker and got the plane taking some shavings again.


Excellent Dan. You took a piece of Hurricane Katrina and turned it into a sunny day on a meadow with chirping birds and squirrels frolicking about. Truthfully, the before pics looked so bad that I didn't think there was any salvaging it. But those shavings prove otherwise.


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## mochoa

Dcase said:


> *Very rough horned wood plane given a new life. *
> 
> Why bother taking the time to restore this plane? It is not worth anything and you can find many just like it for dirt cheap that are probably in much better shape.
> 
> I restored this plane because I knew there were only two options. Either I restore it or the plane ends up getting tossed because I doubt many would have even bothered spending the time that I spent on this thing…
> 
> The plane looked like it was possibly re-soled once before. the sole that was on the plane was coming apart at the glue joint and was just in really bad shape. I used a chisel to break off the worn sole. Once the old sole was off I jointed the bottom of the plane and glued on a new wood sole. I used a piece of mahogany mainly because I had a piece the right thickness and size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue dried I used a plane & rasp to flush the new sole with the body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now comes the fun part of chopping out the new mouth. Using chisels I carefully follow the old bed as a guide. You want to be really careful not to chip out the mouth when chopping through. I put a strip of masking tape over the mouth area as I was chopping to help prevent getting chip out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then planed and sanded the plane body. As I was doing this I noticed that the horn was a little loose. I decided the best way to tighten it back up was to just run a screw through it. I plugged the screw hole with a mahogany plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finished the plane off with some BLO and paste wax.. Sharpened the iron, tuned the chip breaker and got the plane taking some shavings again.


Wow, it came out great. Its always amazing how these wooden planes can bounce back from such a sorry state.


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## ShaneA

Dcase said:


> *Very rough horned wood plane given a new life. *
> 
> Why bother taking the time to restore this plane? It is not worth anything and you can find many just like it for dirt cheap that are probably in much better shape.
> 
> I restored this plane because I knew there were only two options. Either I restore it or the plane ends up getting tossed because I doubt many would have even bothered spending the time that I spent on this thing…
> 
> The plane looked like it was possibly re-soled once before. the sole that was on the plane was coming apart at the glue joint and was just in really bad shape. I used a chisel to break off the worn sole. Once the old sole was off I jointed the bottom of the plane and glued on a new wood sole. I used a piece of mahogany mainly because I had a piece the right thickness and size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue dried I used a plane & rasp to flush the new sole with the body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now comes the fun part of chopping out the new mouth. Using chisels I carefully follow the old bed as a guide. You want to be really careful not to chip out the mouth when chopping through. I put a strip of masking tape over the mouth area as I was chopping to help prevent getting chip out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then planed and sanded the plane body. As I was doing this I noticed that the horn was a little loose. I decided the best way to tighten it back up was to just run a screw through it. I plugged the screw hole with a mahogany plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finished the plane off with some BLO and paste wax.. Sharpened the iron, tuned the chip breaker and got the plane taking some shavings again.


Impressive stuff Dan. I give you extra credit for taking on what could have been a lost cause. Looks great.


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## Dcase

Dcase said:


> *Very rough horned wood plane given a new life. *
> 
> Why bother taking the time to restore this plane? It is not worth anything and you can find many just like it for dirt cheap that are probably in much better shape.
> 
> I restored this plane because I knew there were only two options. Either I restore it or the plane ends up getting tossed because I doubt many would have even bothered spending the time that I spent on this thing…
> 
> The plane looked like it was possibly re-soled once before. the sole that was on the plane was coming apart at the glue joint and was just in really bad shape. I used a chisel to break off the worn sole. Once the old sole was off I jointed the bottom of the plane and glued on a new wood sole. I used a piece of mahogany mainly because I had a piece the right thickness and size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue dried I used a plane & rasp to flush the new sole with the body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now comes the fun part of chopping out the new mouth. Using chisels I carefully follow the old bed as a guide. You want to be really careful not to chip out the mouth when chopping through. I put a strip of masking tape over the mouth area as I was chopping to help prevent getting chip out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then planed and sanded the plane body. As I was doing this I noticed that the horn was a little loose. I decided the best way to tighten it back up was to just run a screw through it. I plugged the screw hole with a mahogany plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finished the plane off with some BLO and paste wax.. Sharpened the iron, tuned the chip breaker and got the plane taking some shavings again.


Thanks everyone! The most time consuming part of the whole restoration was getting the iron sharp. I should have taken pics of the before and after of the iron and chip breaker.


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## AnthonyReed

Dcase said:


> *Very rough horned wood plane given a new life. *
> 
> Why bother taking the time to restore this plane? It is not worth anything and you can find many just like it for dirt cheap that are probably in much better shape.
> 
> I restored this plane because I knew there were only two options. Either I restore it or the plane ends up getting tossed because I doubt many would have even bothered spending the time that I spent on this thing…
> 
> The plane looked like it was possibly re-soled once before. the sole that was on the plane was coming apart at the glue joint and was just in really bad shape. I used a chisel to break off the worn sole. Once the old sole was off I jointed the bottom of the plane and glued on a new wood sole. I used a piece of mahogany mainly because I had a piece the right thickness and size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue dried I used a plane & rasp to flush the new sole with the body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now comes the fun part of chopping out the new mouth. Using chisels I carefully follow the old bed as a guide. You want to be really careful not to chip out the mouth when chopping through. I put a strip of masking tape over the mouth area as I was chopping to help prevent getting chip out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then planed and sanded the plane body. As I was doing this I noticed that the horn was a little loose. I decided the best way to tighten it back up was to just run a screw through it. I plugged the screw hole with a mahogany plug.
> 
> 
> 
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> Finished the plane off with some BLO and paste wax.. Sharpened the iron, tuned the chip breaker and got the plane taking some shavings again.


You are a force to be reckoned with Dan. A spectacular resurrection as always.

Thanks for sharing Mr. Wizard.


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## Mambrax

Dcase said:


> *Very rough horned wood plane given a new life. *
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> Why bother taking the time to restore this plane? It is not worth anything and you can find many just like it for dirt cheap that are probably in much better shape.
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> I restored this plane because I knew there were only two options. Either I restore it or the plane ends up getting tossed because I doubt many would have even bothered spending the time that I spent on this thing…
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> The plane looked like it was possibly re-soled once before. the sole that was on the plane was coming apart at the glue joint and was just in really bad shape. I used a chisel to break off the worn sole. Once the old sole was off I jointed the bottom of the plane and glued on a new wood sole. I used a piece of mahogany mainly because I had a piece the right thickness and size.
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> After the glue dried I used a plane & rasp to flush the new sole with the body.
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> Now comes the fun part of chopping out the new mouth. Using chisels I carefully follow the old bed as a guide. You want to be really careful not to chip out the mouth when chopping through. I put a strip of masking tape over the mouth area as I was chopping to help prevent getting chip out.
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> I then planed and sanded the plane body. As I was doing this I noticed that the horn was a little loose. I decided the best way to tighten it back up was to just run a screw through it. I plugged the screw hole with a mahogany plug.
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> Finished the plane off with some BLO and paste wax.. Sharpened the iron, tuned the chip breaker and got the plane taking some shavings again.


very interesting, great result !!!!


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