# STEFANG'S CHINESE BALL QUEST



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

*Project Description and Making Special Tools *

*WHAT IS A CHINESE BALL?*
Here's a photo of the kind I am attempting to make. There are four balls encased in the outer ball which is about 2-7/16" in diameter. *Please note that it is turned from a solid piece of wood on the lathe.*
"







"

I first became aware of Chinese balls while visiting Hong Kong as a young sailor in 1957. I saw some in a shop made from solid ivory. I could see they were made from solid pieces with no gluing. I should have bought one, but they were too expensive for me. During the years after being discharged from the Navy, I wondered off and on how those balls had been produced, but not enough to try and find out.

*BACKGROUND FOR THIS PROJECT*
I bought a book by David Springett entitled 'Woodturning Wizardry' at my local woodworking store. I had heard that the book had some interesting projects and chucks, so I bought it without leafing through it. When I did finally get time to read it I was amazed that one of the projects was how to make Chinese balls similar to the ones I had seen in Hong Kong, Though these wooden ones were not intricately carved after turning as the ivory ones. Here is a link to Springett's fine book on making them.

http://www.amazon.com/Woodturning-Wizardry-David-Springett/dp/1565232798

*PURPOSE OF THIS BLOG*
I'm not intending this as a tutorial blog. The book is far better on the subject than any how-to that I might attempt. I just thought that some of you might be interested in seeing something a little off the beaten path. I also thought that it might inspire others to give it a try.

This will be a challenging project for me and perhaps some others, but a snap for folks who already possess some of the skills required. Referring here mainly to metal working skills and woodturning.

I plan to share with you my failures and successes with this project for better or for worse. This will reveal some of the pitfalls that I have encountered so that others might avoid them. *The idea is: If I can do it so can you*.

*PROJECT SCOPE*
1. Make special turning tools
2. Make a ball cutting jig for the lathe
3. Make a wooden chuck to hold the ball workpiece in various fixed positions for drill/turning,
4. Make a special tool rest for the lathe or an adapted standard tool rest.
5. Standard tools needed: Metal cutting hacksaw metal files (small and regular), twist drill bits in various sizes, a 
Jacobs bit for the lathe 
tailstock, a drill press (small or large), A tap & die set.
6. Suitable wood to turn the balls from (described in the book)
7. A small butane/propane torch. (cheap at most hardware stores).
8. A center punch for steel that can be used for marking out holes to be drilled in the cutters and tool holders.
9. A vise to hold the steel in for sawing out the steel cutters and filing the cutter profiles.

*SOME OF THE WORK CARRIED OUT TO DATE*
I bought some steel plate cut-offs from a local engineering firm at a good price. This was unhardened plate of a decent quality. I got 1/8" and 1/4" plate. The cutting tools are made from the 1/8" plate and the tool holders from the 1/4" plate.

*Tool holders*
The thick plate for the tool holders was hard to cut by hand and the jigsaw was no better, so I chain drilled around the layout marking and then cut the thin part between the holes with a metal cutting blade in my jigsaw. The drilling took some time, but it was much easier physically to do. The cutting to separate them from the plate was done in minutes. I first painted the plate with typing correction paint and them traced them using a cardboard template. Here are some pics of it.
"







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"







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After cutting them out I ground the rough edges smooth with my bench grinder, tapped two holes in each to hold the slotted cutting tools and then I polished them. No hardening was required for the tool holders.

*Cutting tool*
I also made cardboard (cereal box) patterns for the five cutting tools made from the 1/8" plate. I used a hacksaw to cut them out and file/ground the rough edges. I chain drilled holes for places I couldn't get to with my hacksaw. I sawed the slots in these with a metal blade in my scroll saw, but handheld coping saw with a metal cutting blade would also work well here. The tip of these cutters have to be hardened and tempered. Heat to cherry red and then douse in a bucket of cold water to harden, then reheat to a light blue color and douse again to temper.

*Tool handles*
I turned these from some white oak stock I had on hand. I turned the first one the way I like it, then I made a simple pattern from the inside curve (or cove) and used that to help duplicate the others. Here is a photo of the finished turning tools. 
"







"

That's it for today. I will show you the ball cutting jig in the next episode. I will try to keep the next blogs less wordy now that I have explained what the project is all about. Thank you for reading. The following links cover all the blogs in the series to date.

http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/27858 #1
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/27938 #2
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28079 #3
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28240 #4
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28512 #5
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28536 #6


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

stefang said:


> *Project Description and Making Special Tools *
> 
> *WHAT IS A CHINESE BALL?*
> Here's a photo of the kind I am attempting to make. There are four balls encased in the outer ball which is about 2-7/16" in diameter. *Please note that it is turned from a solid piece of wood on the lathe.*
> ...


Wow Mike this is way cool, I look forward to the rest of your blog.


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## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Project Description and Making Special Tools *
> 
> *WHAT IS A CHINESE BALL?*
> Here's a photo of the kind I am attempting to make. There are four balls encased in the outer ball which is about 2-7/16" in diameter. *Please note that it is turned from a solid piece of wood on the lathe.*
> ...


Now you are messing with MY head.. I look forward to your blog…


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Project Description and Making Special Tools *
> 
> *WHAT IS A CHINESE BALL?*
> Here's a photo of the kind I am attempting to make. There are four balls encased in the outer ball which is about 2-7/16" in diameter. *Please note that it is turned from a solid piece of wood on the lathe.*
> ...


Holy Cow Mike its multiple projects in one. Just to imagine the time you have spent. Great job. I can see those grandchildren playing with it.
My dad was in the navy during WWII. He showed me a knot called a monkey paw. It took me weeks to master it. He was teaching me patience.
Thanks for sharing.
Awaiting the next blog.


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

stefang said:


> *Project Description and Making Special Tools *
> 
> *WHAT IS A CHINESE BALL?*
> Here's a photo of the kind I am attempting to make. There are four balls encased in the outer ball which is about 2-7/16" in diameter. *Please note that it is turned from a solid piece of wood on the lathe.*
> ...


This is so cool, Mike!

You indicated the tool holders were not hardened, how about the cutting portion of the tool?

Lew


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## FatherHooligan (Mar 27, 2008)

stefang said:


> *Project Description and Making Special Tools *
> 
> *WHAT IS A CHINESE BALL?*
> Here's a photo of the kind I am attempting to make. There are four balls encased in the outer ball which is about 2-7/16" in diameter. *Please note that it is turned from a solid piece of wood on the lathe.*
> ...


Very interesting! I think this will be a great blog to follow.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Project Description and Making Special Tools *
> 
> *WHAT IS A CHINESE BALL?*
> Here's a photo of the kind I am attempting to make. There are four balls encased in the outer ball which is about 2-7/16" in diameter. *Please note that it is turned from a solid piece of wood on the lathe.*
> ...


Glad you guys are interested enough to read it! Thanks for the positive comments.

*Dave* Ok for the older kids, but not the younger ones. If a ball like this is dropped on the floor it will almost certainly break. Each ball has walls only about 3mm thick except for the smallest one in the center which is solid with a radius just a little over 1/16"

*Lew* Good catch. I forgot to mention that the cutting tools have to be hardened and then tempered. I worried about this part all the time I was making the tools, and it turned out to be the easiest part. I just heated the cutting tips to a cherry red color, dipped them in a bucket of water to harden then I reheated to a blue color and again doused them in water to temper. I tried for a straw color but wound up with light blue, which was recommended in the book anyway.


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## BritBoxmaker (Feb 1, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Project Description and Making Special Tools *
> 
> *WHAT IS A CHINESE BALL?*
> Here's a photo of the kind I am attempting to make. There are four balls encased in the outer ball which is about 2-7/16" in diameter. *Please note that it is turned from a solid piece of wood on the lathe.*
> ...


I can see the sort of thing you saw back in '57, in my mind. Its the sort of thing you look at and wonder and look at and wonder, ad infinitum. If I ever see something like the Ivory one you saw I will sell all my worldly goods and buy it. This should indicate the depth of my interest in your project, here. THIS is CLEVER stuff.


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## daltxguy (Sep 7, 2007)

stefang said:


> *Project Description and Making Special Tools *
> 
> *WHAT IS A CHINESE BALL?*
> Here's a photo of the kind I am attempting to make. There are four balls encased in the outer ball which is about 2-7/16" in diameter. *Please note that it is turned from a solid piece of wood on the lathe.*
> ...


Wow, this is fascinating already, just with the making of the tools!

If you hardened and tempered the cutting edges of the tools, then the steel plate you were using must not be simple mild steel, is it? it must be some carbon steel?

Or is the 1/4" steel mild steel but the 1/8" steel is tool steel ( ie: high carbon or carbon/alloy)


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Project Description and Making Special Tools *
> 
> *WHAT IS A CHINESE BALL?*
> Here's a photo of the kind I am attempting to make. There are four balls encased in the outer ball which is about 2-7/16" in diameter. *Please note that it is turned from a solid piece of wood on the lathe.*
> ...


Youse is a man on a mission…..pretty darned involved, I would say. It will be fun to see how it goes.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Project Description and Making Special Tools *
> 
> *WHAT IS A CHINESE BALL?*
> Here's a photo of the kind I am attempting to make. There are four balls encased in the outer ball which is about 2-7/16" in diameter. *Please note that it is turned from a solid piece of wood on the lathe.*
> ...


I'm very happy to see that this is striking a chord with you guys.

*Martyn* This clever stuff comes from a fellow Brit of yours David Springett. God save the Queen!

*Steve* Yes, I used high carbon steel plate. It isn't tool steel, but it is a good quality and holds it's edge well (I've already tried that).

*Jim* Yes, now I will have to finish this project successfully or really be embarrassed.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Project Description and Making Special Tools *
> 
> *WHAT IS A CHINESE BALL?*
> Here's a photo of the kind I am attempting to make. There are four balls encased in the outer ball which is about 2-7/16" in diameter. *Please note that it is turned from a solid piece of wood on the lathe.*
> ...


Way….. Too….. Cool !!

I'll be watching Mike.


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Project Description and Making Special Tools *
> 
> *WHAT IS A CHINESE BALL?*
> Here's a photo of the kind I am attempting to make. There are four balls encased in the outer ball which is about 2-7/16" in diameter. *Please note that it is turned from a solid piece of wood on the lathe.*
> ...


well you never cease to amaze me mike, from making these turning tools to what your taking on for a project, it certainly will be a great project, one that is not the norm…cant wait to see it…and what you do, we all make mistakes, we know that…its how we learn…thank you mike…grizz


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Project Description and Making Special Tools *
> 
> *WHAT IS A CHINESE BALL?*
> Here's a photo of the kind I am attempting to make. There are four balls encased in the outer ball which is about 2-7/16" in diameter. *Please note that it is turned from a solid piece of wood on the lathe.*
> ...


well done mike
you have captivated us all again

with your clever projects
and razor sharp …..

....... well tools lol


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## Hoakie (May 8, 2007)

stefang said:


> *Project Description and Making Special Tools *
> 
> *WHAT IS A CHINESE BALL?*
> Here's a photo of the kind I am attempting to make. There are four balls encased in the outer ball which is about 2-7/16" in diameter. *Please note that it is turned from a solid piece of wood on the lathe.*
> ...


WOW!! This is going to be an exciting journey….can't wait for the next installment. Definitely an inspiration


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## chief101 (Oct 30, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Project Description and Making Special Tools *
> 
> *WHAT IS A CHINESE BALL?*
> Here's a photo of the kind I am attempting to make. There are four balls encased in the outer ball which is about 2-7/16" in diameter. *Please note that it is turned from a solid piece of wood on the lathe.*
> ...


This is exciting.


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## JJohnston (May 22, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Project Description and Making Special Tools *
> 
> *WHAT IS A CHINESE BALL?*
> Here's a photo of the kind I am attempting to make. There are four balls encased in the outer ball which is about 2-7/16" in diameter. *Please note that it is turned from a solid piece of wood on the lathe.*
> ...


If the look of the tools is an indication, the final product should turn out pretty good.

I'm curious about the concave curve with the points on the end of each tool holder.


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## lanwater (May 14, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Project Description and Making Special Tools *
> 
> *WHAT IS A CHINESE BALL?*
> Here's a photo of the kind I am attempting to make. There are four balls encased in the outer ball which is about 2-7/16" in diameter. *Please note that it is turned from a solid piece of wood on the lathe.*
> ...


Not an easy project Stefang…

I don't know how to turn yet, but 3mm wall, that could chater very easily.

I know you will pull it. I will be following withgreat interest.


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## toyguy (Nov 23, 2007)

stefang said:


> *Project Description and Making Special Tools *
> 
> *WHAT IS A CHINESE BALL?*
> Here's a photo of the kind I am attempting to make. There are four balls encased in the outer ball which is about 2-7/16" in diameter. *Please note that it is turned from a solid piece of wood on the lathe.*
> ...


very interesting project. I have seen this book advertised a couple of times and have often wondered about it. 
I will be right here watching this blog…... good luck with your project.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Project Description and Making Special Tools *
> 
> *WHAT IS A CHINESE BALL?*
> Here's a photo of the kind I am attempting to make. There are four balls encased in the outer ball which is about 2-7/16" in diameter. *Please note that it is turned from a solid piece of wood on the lathe.*
> ...


Thanks one and all for the good wishes. This project will produce an interesting curiosity, not something beautiful to behold. Not being artistic, I felt that I could instead try out a technical challenge. The original Chinese Balls are of course artistic too with their intricate carving of garden scenes and the like. Truly amazing work which I could never hope to duplicate. But who knows? Maybe one of our many talented carvers on LJ might want to try.

In my next blog on this, I will try to show some of the details of the cutting tools and also explain how they work, plus details about the ball cutting jig I have made for my lathe and how it works too.


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## Schwieb (Dec 3, 2008)

stefang said:


> *Project Description and Making Special Tools *
> 
> *WHAT IS A CHINESE BALL?*
> Here's a photo of the kind I am attempting to make. There are four balls encased in the outer ball which is about 2-7/16" in diameter. *Please note that it is turned from a solid piece of wood on the lathe.*
> ...


This is terrific Mike. I appreciate your dedication to doing this. I'm also glad you're feeling better and back at it again. Just the time it took to research this and make the tools is quite an accomplishment. I'm looking forward to seeing your progress.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Project Description and Making Special Tools *
> 
> *WHAT IS A CHINESE BALL?*
> Here's a photo of the kind I am attempting to make. There are four balls encased in the outer ball which is about 2-7/16" in diameter. *Please note that it is turned from a solid piece of wood on the lathe.*
> ...


Wow Mike!
I can't wait to see the rest of this blog.
Wonderful tools you made for the project.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Project Description and Making Special Tools *
> 
> *WHAT IS A CHINESE BALL?*
> Here's a photo of the kind I am attempting to make. There are four balls encased in the outer ball which is about 2-7/16" in diameter. *Please note that it is turned from a solid piece of wood on the lathe.*
> ...


Thanks for your supporting comments and good wishes *Ken* and *Mads*. I do think this project would be perfect for you *Mads*, as I'm sure that with your metal working skills, you would have done a much better job with it than myself. I did not do as good a job on the tools as I would have liked. I'll explain this in my next blog. The book is very good, but of course it doesn't go into the small things that improve technique, and as they say "the devil is in the details" I guess I am paying my dues.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

stefang said:


> *Project Description and Making Special Tools *
> 
> *WHAT IS A CHINESE BALL?*
> Here's a photo of the kind I am attempting to make. There are four balls encased in the outer ball which is about 2-7/16" in diameter. *Please note that it is turned from a solid piece of wood on the lathe.*
> ...


What a way to whip up a batch of fine looking tools. I'm impressed already! Subscribed!


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Project Description and Making Special Tools *
> 
> *WHAT IS A CHINESE BALL?*
> Here's a photo of the kind I am attempting to make. There are four balls encased in the outer ball which is about 2-7/16" in diameter. *Please note that it is turned from a solid piece of wood on the lathe.*
> ...


;-) I think your tools look so pro that I find it hard to belive I could improve on that.
Look forward to see the blog.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

stefang said:


> *Project Description and Making Special Tools *
> 
> *WHAT IS A CHINESE BALL?*
> Here's a photo of the kind I am attempting to make. There are four balls encased in the outer ball which is about 2-7/16" in diameter. *Please note that it is turned from a solid piece of wood on the lathe.*
> ...


^Mads, they seem like just the thing Stefang could charge an enormous amount of money for. Have you priced gourmet lathe tools recently?


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Project Description and Making Special Tools *
> 
> *WHAT IS A CHINESE BALL?*
> Here's a photo of the kind I am attempting to make. There are four balls encased in the outer ball which is about 2-7/16" in diameter. *Please note that it is turned from a solid piece of wood on the lathe.*
> ...


;-)


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## Sanman (Dec 12, 2011)

stefang said:


> *Project Description and Making Special Tools *
> 
> *WHAT IS A CHINESE BALL?*
> Here's a photo of the kind I am attempting to make. There are four balls encased in the outer ball which is about 2-7/16" in diameter. *Please note that it is turned from a solid piece of wood on the lathe.*
> ...


I'm ordering the book today!


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Project Description and Making Special Tools *
> 
> *WHAT IS A CHINESE BALL?*
> Here's a photo of the kind I am attempting to make. There are four balls encased in the outer ball which is about 2-7/16" in diameter. *Please note that it is turned from a solid piece of wood on the lathe.*
> ...


Great Sanman. This is a very enjoyable project with so many rewards.


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## Schwieb (Dec 3, 2008)

stefang said:


> *Project Description and Making Special Tools *
> 
> *WHAT IS A CHINESE BALL?*
> Here's a photo of the kind I am attempting to make. There are four balls encased in the outer ball which is about 2-7/16" in diameter. *Please note that it is turned from a solid piece of wood on the lathe.*
> ...


I went today to a woodturning symposium, what an inspiration that was and tonight I have been in the shop making a couple of humidors, one of which was requested as a returned favor for a childhood friend of my wife's and the other just to make. All the time I am thinking I wonder what Mike is doing in Norway and Mads in Denmark and others around the world. It has always fascinated me how some make the choice to "do" something with their mind and their hands instead of looking at the boob tube or other time wasters. I wish I was better at preparing posts and doing the photography, it's hard enough to keep up with what others are doing but your work continues to inspire me to keep doing the things I like to do. Thanks Mike!


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Project Description and Making Special Tools *
> 
> *WHAT IS A CHINESE BALL?*
> Here's a photo of the kind I am attempting to make. There are four balls encased in the outer ball which is about 2-7/16" in diameter. *Please note that it is turned from a solid piece of wood on the lathe.*
> ...


I think my head just blew up… WOW!


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Project Description and Making Special Tools *
> 
> *WHAT IS A CHINESE BALL?*
> Here's a photo of the kind I am attempting to make. There are four balls encased in the outer ball which is about 2-7/16" in diameter. *Please note that it is turned from a solid piece of wood on the lathe.*
> ...


Thanks *Ken* and *Roger* If you are wondering what I've been doing in Norway recently it's mostly been sitting in my easy chair, except for a few short sessions in the shop. Now that some time has elapsed after my eye operations, I went to order new glasses today. After testing and adjusting to work out a prescription for my glasses I was amazed that with new specs, my eyesight will now be perfect. The optician was really happy for me to see how well the operations turned out. So now it will be measure once and cut once I hope!


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## Timbo (Aug 21, 2008)

stefang said:


> *Project Description and Making Special Tools *
> 
> *WHAT IS A CHINESE BALL?*
> Here's a photo of the kind I am attempting to make. There are four balls encased in the outer ball which is about 2-7/16" in diameter. *Please note that it is turned from a solid piece of wood on the lathe.*
> ...


The lathes tools are just too cool, you have been very busy.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Project Description and Making Special Tools *
> 
> *WHAT IS A CHINESE BALL?*
> Here's a photo of the kind I am attempting to make. There are four balls encased in the outer ball which is about 2-7/16" in diameter. *Please note that it is turned from a solid piece of wood on the lathe.*
> ...


Thanks Tim, this project is being done sporadically due to a lot distractions. That's ok though for me.


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## rance (Sep 30, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Project Description and Making Special Tools *
> 
> *WHAT IS A CHINESE BALL?*
> Here's a photo of the kind I am attempting to make. There are four balls encased in the outer ball which is about 2-7/16" in diameter. *Please note that it is turned from a solid piece of wood on the lathe.*
> ...


Stefang, I think I located your brother on youtube:

or go to youtube and search for "Для форума" posted by sweetmaksik.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Project Description and Making Special Tools *
> 
> *WHAT IS A CHINESE BALL?*
> Here's a photo of the kind I am attempting to make. There are four balls encased in the outer ball which is about 2-7/16" in diameter. *Please note that it is turned from a solid piece of wood on the lathe.*
> ...


Gadzooks rance, that guy has balls of steel! Thanks for the link, it was fun to see.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

*Some Tool Details and My Ball Cutting Jig*

This is what I am attempting to make
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"

*CUTTING TOOLS DETAIL*
I took a few photos to show you some of the smaller details of the cutters. Unfortunately after all the praise heaped on me for making such fine tools, I will now be exposed as less skillful than you might have thought. The details reveal some pretty sloppy cutting and also centering of slots. However, they do work well.

*Tip*
The slots are centered on the tool with a center line. Drill points are marked on the centerline at the start and finish of the slots. the holes are drilled and the slots are cut out. This is very simple in theory, but I found it much more difficult in practice. I did get better at it with improved technique, but I'm not thrilled with the result. The good news is that I can make these over again whenever I want.

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"

Note the light blue color still remaining on a couple of the tips shown above. This is the color to look for when tempering. According to the charts it should be more straw colored, but the book said light blue. This works, so it's ok.

"







"

This image (above) is to give you some idea of the shape of the cutting tips.

"







"

Another shot of the cutter ends standing on edge. If you were Looking at the cutter laying flat as it would on the tool holder the width of the cutting tip is 1/8"(3mm) on the *top* and 3/32"(2mm) on the *bottom*. As you can see, the very end has the bevel ending in a sharp point. This is where the cutting takes place. It is important that this tip is as wide or wider than the rest of the radiused cutting end to prevent jamming as cutting progresses.

*BALL CUTTING JIG*
The ball cutting jig is somewhat optional. If you can cut balls freehand then you probably won't need it. The one pictured is made from the plan in the book 'Woodturning Wizadry". The cutting tool is adjustable so it can be adjusted in for each small cut. This jig will only cut one radius, the 62mm ball used for my project. I have adapted it to my lathe so it is easily positioned or removed. It's rather a pain in the neck to manually adjust the cutter after each cut, especially since each cut is so shallow (by necessity).

"







"

The knob on the top is to lock the cutting tool.

"







"

Here is a detail photo of the cutting tip.This tool is a piece of hardened and tempered 1/4" (6mm) steel plate shown in the photo above.

"







"

The book suggests screwing the jig base onto a wooden bench under the the lathe carriage. I tried this but found it very inflexible and time consuming to set-up and remove, so instead I just use a board on the bottom (as seen above) of the platform that sits very snuggly between the carriage bars and keeps it perfectly centered. I then just use a couple of spring clamps on the backside of the lathe to keep it in position.

"







"

the above photo show that the cutting tip is perfectly aligned with the turning centerline height of the lathe. It also has to align perfectly with the tailstock centerline height.

"







"

Here is a ball that I cut freehand. I will try my ball cutting jig for the first time after changing the base for my next ball. The above ball was cut with a round nosed wide scraper. I got quite a nice cut with that. I will blog cutting with the jig later.

"







"

And last but not least the stuff I use for depth markers on my drills and also for marking out the turning tools. This stuff is much better than collars or masking tape!

My next blog with will be about the custom made chuck for holding the balls in various positions for drilling and turning. I hope you found something of interest here.Thanks for reading. The following links cover all the blogs in the series to date.

http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/27858 #1
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/27938 #2
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28079 #3
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28240 #4
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28512 #5
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28536 #6


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Some Tool Details and My Ball Cutting Jig*
> 
> This is what I am attempting to make
> "
> ...


great post here mike

i'm sure we will all learn quit a bit

glad you got to do this

at such an early age too !


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Some Tool Details and My Ball Cutting Jig*
> 
> This is what I am attempting to make
> "
> ...


Great Mike. I have an interest in the tempering of the tools. Did you heat below the cutting edge of the tool then quench? Or heat the tip slowly? Or maybe get another piece cherry, then place you tool on the edge and wait for the heat transfer?
Sorry, got off into to many questions.
Your freehand ball looks pretty dang perfect to me.
A wonderful blog Mike keep us posted.
Is that liquid paper?


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

stefang said:


> *Some Tool Details and My Ball Cutting Jig*
> 
> This is what I am attempting to make
> "
> ...


Very interesting Mike can't wait for more.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Some Tool Details and My Ball Cutting Jig*
> 
> This is what I am attempting to make
> "
> ...


*David* This stuff is easy compared to what my wife makes me do. Age makes no difference to her. I suggest you revel in you bachelorhood. Today I've been working on our house ventilation unit. It's a shame I will be kicking the bucket so soon with all the miscellaneous skills I've learned over the years!

*Dave* I hardened the whole thing from the body of the cutters forward to and including the curved tip. This was done by first heating to cherry red, dousing in a bucket cold water and then immediately reheating to the light blue color and then dousing again to temper it. That was it. I used a small butane/propane torch keeping the metal in the orange part of the flame for the quickest heat-up. There might be other/better ways to do this, but I don't know about them if there is. And yes that stuff is what you call "liquid paper"

*A couple of safety reminders:* It is very wise to place your torch in a vise or some other secure holder and point it away from any objects before you light up. That way you can concentrate on holding the tool to the flame without the danger of toppling your torch. I used leather gloves and a vise-grip to hold the cutters with, as the whole thing gets pretty hot. Safety Glasses, a helmet, knee and shoulder pads is optional. Good luck and let me know how it went for you!


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Some Tool Details and My Ball Cutting Jig*
> 
> This is what I am attempting to make
> "
> ...


Thanks Mike and I will do.


----------



## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Some Tool Details and My Ball Cutting Jig*
> 
> This is what I am attempting to make
> "
> ...


Fascinating! I know you have the book, but this looks to be a very significant challenge!


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Some Tool Details and My Ball Cutting Jig*
> 
> This is what I am attempting to make
> "
> ...


Thanks for your comments *Jim* and *Steve*. The woodworking parts including the turning is easy enough, but the metal work has been a lot more challenging for me. I did have some problems with the wooden chuck though, which I will explain in some detail in the next blog. I think the important thing for this project is to take each part of it, i.e., jig making, tool making, ball turning/preparation, and turning the balls within balls, all as separate projects. If each project succeeds, that should result in a Chinese ball. We will see. It is fun to try something new.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Some Tool Details and My Ball Cutting Jig*
> 
> This is what I am attempting to make
> "
> ...


This is fascinating stuff Mike and you are just the man I'd expect to find doing it.
Your projects always seem a little different in a very challenging way but I do understand the lure of a challenge.
Keep up the fine work and we'll be here watching.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Some Tool Details and My Ball Cutting Jig*
> 
> This is what I am attempting to make
> "
> ...


Thanks Paul. That's because I am a challenged woodworker!


----------



## SisQMark (Apr 13, 2011)

stefang said:


> *Some Tool Details and My Ball Cutting Jig*
> 
> This is what I am attempting to make
> "
> ...


Very interesting blog Mike, I'll be following with interest. I was a machinist for awhile and the shop I worked in used motor oil for the tempering process. It seamed to work well. Have you used this method at all? You can achieve some pretty good rockwell hardness. I've been interested in making knives, but stalled due to the hardening of the blades, I figured I wouldn't do it good enough. Keep up with the blog we are all interested.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Some Tool Details and My Ball Cutting Jig*
> 
> This is what I am attempting to make
> "
> ...


Thanks SisQMark. I haven't tried oil as I thought it would be too messy, but I have read that the tempering process used by professionals is much more scientific than the color method I'm using, but it works quite well for these small cutters. I have watched some knife videos showing the hardening/tempering processes, but it looks a lot more difficult and time consuming with so much more steel involved.


----------



## Roz (Jan 13, 2008)

stefang said:


> *Some Tool Details and My Ball Cutting Jig*
> 
> This is what I am attempting to make
> "
> ...


Over my head.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Some Tool Details and My Ball Cutting Jig*
> 
> This is what I am attempting to make
> "
> ...


I doubt that Terry. It is a woodturner's thing. If you were a turner, then it wouldn't seem difficult. It's one of those one step at a time things. I have chosen to do this project the hard way by making all the tools. The turning tools can also just be purchased from Crown Tools.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Some Tool Details and My Ball Cutting Jig*
> 
> This is what I am attempting to make
> "
> ...


Amazing Mike!
I will follow this one and enjoy your talents.
I have not had the time to look into the stuff about the lathe you send me, but it is not forgotten.
Big smile to you my friend,
mads


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Some Tool Details and My Ball Cutting Jig*
> 
> This is what I am attempting to make
> "
> ...


Thanks Mads. I am glad you are busy and living to the full my friend. My curious little project is going rather slowly, but I did get into the shop a little the last couple of days now that my eyes are pretty much healed. Meanwhile I am doing most of my woodworking from my easy chair!


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## Sanman (Dec 12, 2011)

stefang said:


> *Some Tool Details and My Ball Cutting Jig*
> 
> This is what I am attempting to make
> "
> ...


I received my book in the mail on Tuesday and have started my reading. Very in-depth guide, hard for me to follow at times. All the tool making is going to push my little skills to their limit. You are defiantly an inspiration, thank-you.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Some Tool Details and My Ball Cutting Jig*
> 
> This is what I am attempting to make
> "
> ...


Glad you have the book *Sanman*. I found that while the book has all the info needed it is sometimes a bit cryptic. I had to read it closely several times too. Springett doesn't always explain the 'why' of things. I also thought he could have included full scale drawings of the cutting tools and tool holders. Maybe he didn't because printers don't always get it right. He could have provided them on the web though. You can of course buy the tools from Crown Tools, but for me half the fun was making them myself, plus I can make replacements if and when I need them.

One thing I would warn you about is an error on the plans for the chuck collar opening. The diameter of the hole should be 57mm or about 2-1/4" not the measurement he gives. He does tell how to measure for the correct diameter though.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

*The Big Chuck Challenge*

Here is what I'm trying to make.









Essential to this type of work is a chuck to hold the blank ball for drilling the 22 holes at different locations and to hold it in various positions for the turning of the 4 internal balls.

*BUILDING THE CHUCK BODY*
The outside dimensions of the chuck are flexible as long as there is enough 'meat' around it to hold a faceplate or to accommodate whatever other way you might want to hold the chuck onto the lathe with, and also for the screws which hold the collar in place to lock the ball securely into the chuck.

This blog will be somewhat tutorial because I have made a better chuck than the one recommended in the book 'Woodturning Wizadry', and this might help out someone else doing this project.

This is my *third* chuck. The first one sucked, the 2nd one was a good concept with a flaw, and the third one is in my opinion bomb proof. That remains to be seen, as I haven't actually used it yet!

So let's get started!
*
1. Glue up*










I started out face gluing a couple of 4-1/2" squares of 3/4" wood together as shown above. I used white oak because I wanted a heavy wood to run more vibration free on the lathe.










*2. Drilling holes for the 1/4"(M6) collar screws*
The next step was to add one more square of the oak and the 1/2" mdf for the collar, both fastened using double sided tape to prepare them for drilling the four collar screw holes, which, as you can see have already been done.










*3.Installing threaded inserts for the collar screws*
After drilling deep enough to insure the proper depth to install screw-in threaded inserts, I removed third layer and drilled the holes out big enough to accept the threaded inserts. They are shown being screwed in above. I could have glued all 3 oak squares at one time and screwed in the inserts from the top, but I didn't want the screwdriver slots on the top, so I inserted them from the bottom, which will then be glued onto the other two boards.

*4. Final glue-up*









After gluing on the 3rd board with the inserts and with the mdf collar still attached, I added a 4th board to protect the MDF while in the glue clamps as shown.

*5. Getting the chuck body ready for turning*










A faceplate has been mounted onto the chuck body and cut round in the bandsaw.










Before mounting the chuck onto the lathe I wanted to makes sure my headstock and tailstock were properly aligned.










The chuck body is now mounted on the lathe and the tailstock brought up to mark the center for hollowing out purposes. The lathe was aligned to make sure the center marking would be correct.

*6.Turning the chuck body*
The outside is first turned smooth and then a ball shape is turned into the center of the chuck using a half ball template. The diameter is 62mm or about 2-7/16" in diameter.










Here it is the finished hole in the completed chuck body.

*MAKING THE CHUCK COLLAR*

*1. Marking out the collar*









Here you see the marked out collar. There is a line 1/2" from the center line bisecting the circle. That is the same thickness as the collar and it's length denotes the diameter of the hole to turned in the center on the top of the collar. The bottom of the collar hole will be turned to the same diameter as the hole in the chuck body. In this case the top hole diameter will be our first target. Please note that the screw holes have been countersunk.

*2 Turning the collar*









The collar is being attached to the chuck body with the four screws which are held by the threaded inserts.


















The outside edge of the collar is turned to the outside chuck body diameter, and the center hole cut out. The next step is to enlarge the internal opening of the collar hole to the same diameter as the chuck body (2-7/16". This is a curved cut that follows the shape of the ball 1/2" out from the front of the chuck body.


















Here is the completed chuck with the tailstock center pushing the ball in tight before screwing the collar. the 2nd photo shows the chuck holding a ball ready for work!










These are the three chucks named From left to right 'Chuck', 'Chucky' and finally 'Chuckles'. I hope this blog wasn't too boring. I just had to get it out of my system, lol. Thanks for reading.

The next blog with be about the special tool rest needed for the special turning tools. The following links cover all the blogs in the series to date.

http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/27858 #1
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/27938 #2
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28079 #3
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28240 #4
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28512 #5
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28536 #6


----------



## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Big Chuck Challenge*
> 
> Here is what I'm trying to make.
> 
> ...


congrats mike, three pats on the shoulder for a job well done, and thank you for getting it out of your sytem , so that we could see this in the works…saw the snow you got the other day, that is winter…it was beautiful….grizz


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## lanwater (May 14, 2010)

stefang said:


> *The Big Chuck Challenge*
> 
> Here is what I'm trying to make.
> 
> ...


Mike, that's some serious thinking outside the box (or shall I say chuck).

Although I am not a turner yet, I appreciate your tutorial.

Thanks!


----------



## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

stefang said:


> *The Big Chuck Challenge*
> 
> Here is what I'm trying to make.
> 
> ...


Wow Mike, I am late to the party here, but this is just so cool.

I saw an ivory one of these in the Chinese Museum that is in Taiwan about 30 years ago. I will never forget it. It took 3 (?) generations of craftsmen to produce. It was the most amazing piece of sculpture I have even seen.

Edit: I just found a picture of it:

__
https://flic.kr/p/475327044

But back to this project, I just love it. What a hoot trying to figure it all out. Good for you.

Steve


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Big Chuck Challenge*
> 
> Here is what I'm trying to make.
> 
> ...


Thanks to *Grizz, Ian and Steve*

The carve ivory balls are absolutely gorgeous masterpieces. It makes the wooden ones look pretty pedestrian, but still fascinating to me.


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## SASmith (Mar 22, 2010)

stefang said:


> *The Big Chuck Challenge*
> 
> Here is what I'm trying to make.
> 
> ...


I enjoyed the blog. Looking forward to the next episode.


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

stefang said:


> *The Big Chuck Challenge*
> 
> Here is what I'm trying to make.
> 
> ...


Mike your sure showing your true nature ,*super smart*. This is a very interesting blog ,each step grows more and more clear as to how this all works. Good job.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Big Chuck Challenge*
> 
> Here is what I'm trying to make.
> 
> ...


Thanks a lot *Jim*, but the super smart guy is David Springett who studied the history of these things, found some old books with drawings and began to experiment on his own to work out the tools and techniques to do this work. I am just trying to get things to work properly and I am applying some of my woodworking skills towards that end.

*SASmith* I'm glad you are enjoying it.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

stefang said:


> *The Big Chuck Challenge*
> 
> Here is what I'm trying to make.
> 
> ...


You are a patient and talented craftsman Mike. I'm loving every minute of this.
I also hope that after all the work you are putting in on the tools etc. that you make enough of these that we can all have one ;-).


----------



## whydee (Jan 18, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Big Chuck Challenge*
> 
> Here is what I'm trying to make.
> 
> ...


Perfect!


----------



## toyguy (Nov 23, 2007)

stefang said:


> *The Big Chuck Challenge*
> 
> Here is what I'm trying to make.
> 
> ...


well done. I'm still following along, even though you may not hear from me.
This is great; such simple ideas that work…...... Two thumbs up !!


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

stefang said:


> *The Big Chuck Challenge*
> 
> Here is what I'm trying to make.
> 
> ...


Mike you have us all on the edges of our seats. We will stay tuned for the next upcoming episode. Nicely and smartly done.


----------



## chief101 (Oct 30, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Big Chuck Challenge*
> 
> Here is what I'm trying to make.
> 
> ...


Fascinating blog from a true craftsman can't wait for the next entry. I know your having fun with this.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Big Chuck Challenge*
> 
> Here is what I'm trying to make.
> 
> ...


Thanks to all of you guys for joining me on this strange and wonderful journey. I am enjoying this a lot as you say *Dale*. I just hope it will end successfully. I have already ruined a couple of earlier balls because the first chucks I made wouldn't hold them properly.

And yes *Paul* I will be turning 38,198 of these Chinese balls, one for each LJ member. I plan to deposit NKr. 6.00 or $1.00 in my bank savings account. This amount should accrue enough interest by the time I'm finished to cover the postage cost of Nkr.13,319,800 or $2,303,300. Of course this doesn't include inflation, so it might take just a little longer. Meanwhile I am looking for a small forest to supply the materials.


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Big Chuck Challenge*
> 
> Here is what I'm trying to make.
> 
> ...


well mike

i am beginning to see the light
i never understood these balls before

figured some guy with a carving knife 
sat on the porch and whittled them by hand

but your holder and the thru drilling make sense
look forward to see the 'cut outs'
for the freeing of the inner parts


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## lumberdustjohn (Sep 24, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Big Chuck Challenge*
> 
> Here is what I'm trying to make.
> 
> ...


Interesting.
Thanks for sharing!


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Big Chuck Challenge*
> 
> Here is what I'm trying to make.
> 
> ...


Thanks John and Hi David. There will be 12 large holes which are for the access of turning tools and 20 small holes which remove the material the turning cutters can't reach. None of the 22 holes go all the way through the ball, as there is a solid sphere left in the middle of the ball. I will be showing this in later blogs as the work progresses. It' all pretty simple really, but the result looks very complicated if you aren't familiar with the process. It is a bit time consuming though as you will see later on.

There are a lot of different versions of the ball chucks around. Some have used plastic plumbing parts, others machined steel, wooden donut chucks and who knows what else. the main thing is that you need a chuck that will hold the ball securely in place for accurate drilling and turning and it shouldn't leave any marks on the ball. I think the cup shape is best for the body and the mdf collar is soft enough that it won't mark the ball either. The collar does have to be replaced occasionally, but I think I know how to make them more durable, so I will be making a longer lasting collar version soon.

Is it still snowing there? I hope your plumbing doesn't freeze up. We are at -13F today. Our grandkids usually remove the snow for us, but they couldn't make it when we got so much on Sunday night and then on Monday it was warm enough to make it soggy and then it froze up again on Tuesday and I guess you would need an icepick to remove it now. My wife won't let me clear it because of my asthma and bad back, so we're stuck right now. That's a good thing as I would rather be in the shop than driving around!


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

stefang said:


> *The Big Chuck Challenge*
> 
> Here is what I'm trying to make.
> 
> ...


*Mike*, maybe you could cut a deal with Santa Claus. You would be saving the elves a lot of work and he could supply the shipping. A win-win. He may even loan you a few elves to help.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Big Chuck Challenge*
> 
> Here is what I'm trying to make.
> 
> ...


That sounds good Paul. The first thing I would do is train them to keep my shop clean and in good order while I have all the fun.


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## jimp (Feb 7, 2008)

stefang said:


> *The Big Chuck Challenge*
> 
> Here is what I'm trying to make.
> 
> ...


Thanks for posting this blog series. I can't wait for the next part.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Big Chuck Challenge*
> 
> Here is what I'm trying to make.
> 
> ...


Glad to have you along Jim.


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Big Chuck Challenge*
> 
> Here is what I'm trying to make.
> 
> ...


thanks mike for asking

i got 6"to 8" of snow 4 months ago
it froze and this is the warmest winter her yet
hasn't gotten below 12 deg
4 storms split around me
and trashed everything east
nothing but flurries here
since my 'gutter' build
i have more water than i have ever had
and haven't bought any in two years

i have read that europe has been getting sever weather
stay inside and stay warm
stand next to the steam from the dishwasher
if you have too lol


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Big Chuck Challenge*
> 
> Here is what I'm trying to make.
> 
> ...


Hi David. I told you before that we had -13F, but I meant 13 below freezing. It's not too bad today, at about -2C. I'm glad to hear that your water problems are solved. Quite a few years ago we built a cabin in the mountains and we installed a big fiberglass water tank with a zillion gallons (liters here) capacity. The water wound up having quite a smoky taste as our heating was a fireplace and the smoke from the chimney left a residue on the roof which then ran into the water tank when it rained. Like they say, the devil is in the details. Luckily there was a community freshwater faucet near-by which we wound up using for drinking and cooking water.

You are right, the dishwasher is a very flexible machine: Heating, keeping food warm, steam bending, heating dishes and lots of other uses including washing dishes. I will be outlying all the different uses in my forthcoming book on the subject "How to avoid dishwashers".


----------



## Timbo (Aug 21, 2008)

stefang said:


> *The Big Chuck Challenge*
> 
> Here is what I'm trying to make.
> 
> ...


Well I missed this until now. Always love seeing how these hings are made. Ho, it was 66F today…sorry bout that


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *The Big Chuck Challenge*
> 
> Here is what I'm trying to make.
> 
> ...


Hi Tim, glad to have you onboard. We are well above zero ourselves now.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

*Making a Wooden Ball - part 1*

*Here is what I'm trying to make*










I tried my ball cutting jig today to see if it would work. If you remember, I built the jig from the plan in the book 'Woodturning Wizadry' by David Springett.









Work piece mounted on the lathe. 12cm (4") long.









work piece marked up 62mm (about 2-7/16") and with a center line. The centerline stays on until the ball is entirely sanded, polished and after marking up for drilling of the various holes.









cut to the width (Ball diameter) As you can see, the axle on the left is longer for access by the ball cutting jig.









Check chuck centering (left side)









Check chuck centering (right side matches left side.)









Cutting after about 10 minutes









Close to finished after about 50 minutes total.









After some sanding and cutting down the 'axles'









A little test to see that it actually is round (except the axles)

*CONCLUSION*

*1. How good is this Cutter?*

On the *Negative side*, this jig is pretty flimsy, but it does work. I had to hold it down with one hand and hold it steady as I swung it with the other. My locking mechanism for the cutter has to be locked really tight or it will loosen and it backs out of the cut when it does. The cut wasn't as smooth as I would like, but nothing so bad it couldn't be sanded out.

On the *positive side*, it does more or less guarantee a perfectly round ball. This is a big advantage for this work, where high precision is a must for a good result in making a Chinese Ball.

*2. A better alternative*
Turning balls by hand or with a jig is not especially interesting or fun. A jig is therefore a great advantage as it is precise. Better tools always do the job better and usually faster too, so I think I will probably make a heavy…ish steel jig for this work with a screw type advancer for the cutter, and while I'm at it I will probably want it to be extendable in order to do larger work in case I get an obsession for big balls (unlikely, but one never knows).

Now all that remains to finish this ball is to part it off and turn off the small nubs left over from the 'axle'. This isn't as easy as you might think, but it's not astrophysics either, so I will show you the rest as soon as I can get back into the shop.

There are lots of ways to hand turn these balls and lots of different types of jigs to do it that way. The way I've shown here is just one way and certainly not the best, but it works. I will just stick with it until I can make something better. I wish I could do welding as this would be an easy way to make a steel jig. Anybody with ideas on how to make one without welding, please let me know. I'm not keen on learning welding either as I would probably burn the shop down and the house along with it.

Thanks for reading and any observations positive or negative are welcome, as long as it doesn't have anything to do with sharpening! The following links cover all the blogs in the series to date.

http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/27858 #1
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/27938 #2
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28079 #3
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28240 #4
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28512 #5
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28536 #6


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Making a Wooden Ball - part 1*
> 
> *Here is what I'm trying to make*
> 
> ...


*so I will show you the rest as soon as I can get back into the shop.*

good to see how a true round ball is turned
i always wondered

and good to know you plan on going back to the shop
every time i see you here

you are just sitting on the porch


----------



## DS (Oct 10, 2011)

stefang said:


> *Making a Wooden Ball - part 1*
> 
> *Here is what I'm trying to make*
> 
> ...


What about a copier attachment and a template? 
It seems like you went to a lot of effort for this.

BTW I am amazed by this Chinese Ball thingy. I am eagerly waiting to see how it turns out.


----------



## whydee (Jan 18, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Making a Wooden Ball - part 1*
> 
> *Here is what I'm trying to make*
> 
> ...


Good work. Small nubs left from axle is not a problem when you make chinese ball or the like. I use marks from parting as my starting point to make centers for future holes. Can't wait to see the "ball in action"...


----------



## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Making a Wooden Ball - part 1*
> 
> *Here is what I'm trying to make*
> 
> ...


yea, how to you do that, porch sitting, but yet wood working…your a magical wizard i think…lol..its looking great and every step i see, your great craftsmanship shines through….....mike your doing a great job here, this is why you were missed when you were gone for awhile, when you do comes back you teach something for us to learn from and we appreciate it so much….thank you mike…


----------



## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Making a Wooden Ball - part 1*
> 
> *Here is what I'm trying to make*
> 
> ...


looking at the jig for rounding it over, i wonder if you put a small handle on it so you can hold it better as you sweep it back and forth…i dont know, but its just a thought…grizz


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Making a Wooden Ball - part 1*
> 
> *Here is what I'm trying to make*
> 
> ...


*David* If I were sitting on the porch lately I would be frozen into a human lolly pop by now. I am instead lolling in my Lazyboy recliner in front of the fire. Getting out of that chair seems to take up most of my workday lately. I have a fatal decease. It's call old age.

*DS251* I enjoy a more hands on approach than a copier on my lathe. That would be ok for someone doing repetitive production, but not the kind of turning I like to do (when I do it at all). I have turned these balls by hand and they came out well enough, but I wanted to test the jig to see which way was the easiest/most accurate.

*Yuri* That would probably work, but the primary holes for the Chinese balls are only 18mm or near 3/4" and the ball isn't round all the way to the axle yet because I couldn't get access. Also, I'm concerned that the stub would prevent the ball seating properly in my chuck. Your chuck design might overcome that problem. I could maybe put turn a small cup in the bottom of the chuck to accommodate it. Thanks for the tip, I will keep it in mind.


----------



## Danpaddles (Jan 26, 2012)

stefang said:


> *Making a Wooden Ball - part 1*
> 
> *Here is what I'm trying to make*
> 
> ...


fun article, thanks for taking the time to post it. I might have to try that myself!

A couple things some to mind.

If you want to (need to, I think-) make the L shaped holder from steel, and you do not weld, think about drilling and bolting. Steel cuts easy with a hacksaw or sawzall. You can drill steel on your woodworking drill press, as long as you clean up the oil and stuff afterwards. I have no idea where you can get steel in Norway! But some bar stock shouldn't be too hard to find. You could even try making a fixture from old bed frames, I pick them up cheap occasionally, it is okay angle iron.

I too wish I were a welding sorta guy, but a steel shop does not mix well with a wood shop, especially if you are as messy as I am. I knew a long time ago that woodshops were way more "hobby friendly" although I always sorta had this picture in my mind of a Bridgeport in one corner, and an engine lathe next to it. Oh well.

I flinched when I saw you held that fixture to the lathe rails with spring clamps. I have no doubt you needed to help hold with your hand! check out what this fellow did, I bet you could make something like this, if not from steel, then maybe from hickory or white oak. Use two bolts, of course, or even 4, to leave the center free for the pivot bolt for your jig.

http://www.hdv.net/tips/tips.htm

about the third pict down, he is mounting a steady rest, but you can see where something similar could be used to make a mount for your ball fixture.

You talked about the surface coming out rough, have you tried to shape the cutter with different profiles, cutting angles, and relief angles? I bet there is some magic cutter setup that works well at a given RPM. Experimentation may find that sweet spot.

Good luck, I will look forward to your next post. Say, what city are you near in Norway? Have had that country on my radar for a paddle excursion, the fiords are grand, and there is much good whitewater there too. I have a friend that can help with logistics, but now family pressures are getting greater every year, so the trip is not too likely to happen for a long time yet.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Making a Wooden Ball - part 1*
> 
> *Here is what I'm trying to make*
> 
> ...


*Grizz* Thanks for the nice comments and the 'handle' tip. I'm thinking it would be most fun to design my own jig which would incorporate a screw type cutting tool advancer. It is really a pain to loosen the lock, advance the cutter and then lock it again. This has to be done a zillion times because each cut takes so little off each time in order to get a relatively smooth cut.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Making a Wooden Ball - part 1*
> 
> *Here is what I'm trying to make*
> 
> ...


Thanks *Dan* Thank you for the nuts and bolts tip. You are right about the spring clamps, don't work good well. The jig kept sliding a lot and I had to recenter quite often. I might make a better clamping arrangement, but first I have to decide if I will be using much longer before using the time and effort to improve it. What you didn't see is a center board that fits tightly between the lathe bed rails so it can't slide on the lathe front to back. It did slide back and forth a bit between the headstock and the tailstock though. I should have left some 'ears' on the board for better clamping opportunities. I don't think there is anything wrong with the cutter, it's just that the jig isn't very vibrates a bit in spite of my holding it steady as I can.


----------



## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Making a Wooden Ball - part 1*
> 
> *Here is what I'm trying to make*
> 
> ...


oh ok mike i see how that works now, i thought you were able to make a clean sweep of it and get your round ball, i didnt look at it long enough to realize you had to do it a step at a time…, i get it now…thanks…so much for a handle, that wouldnt work…


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Making a Wooden Ball - part 1*
> 
> *Here is what I'm trying to make*
> 
> ...


Mike as always its always something new with you. I do enjoy taking the woodworking journey with you. Very interesting and symmetrical And as the rest of the other guys. The best is yet to come.


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## chief101 (Oct 30, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Making a Wooden Ball - part 1*
> 
> *Here is what I'm trying to make*
> 
> ...


Stefang your project reminds me of my Industrial Arts class in high school. My senior project was a attachment for a metal lathe that produced balls. I recieved an A on the project. I only wish I had taken the thing home or had the plans for it I'm sure it could be reproduced for your wood lathe. My 50th reunion is this year WOW.


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## lanwater (May 14, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Making a Wooden Ball - part 1*
> 
> *Here is what I'm trying to make*
> 
> ...


This is very interesting. I fell I am in a class with severa good teachers.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Making a Wooden Ball - part 1*
> 
> *Here is what I'm trying to make*
> 
> ...


*Dave* "Something new all the time" is my great downfall as a craftsman. Once I have proven to myself than I can do something, I am usually ready to move on, thereby missing the 'practice makes perfect' bit. I might stick with these balls for awhile though as I have invested so much time and effort making the various tools needed to do this project.

*Dale* I wish you had that drawing too. It was undoubtedly better than mine. At least I can make the excuse that I didn't design it. I have noted from David Springett's videos that he now uses a steel ball cutter himself. I suppose he designed the wooden one so as not to discourage someone getting into the project. I don't regret having made this one though, as it was easy and quick to build and I learned a lot about how a good ball cutter should perform and what it will take to make that happen.

Thinking about your work in high school Dale, I think industrial arts is a very important subject even for students today. They learn to work with precision and take great pride in what they produce, and they learn that things are done in a step by step fashion. I believe this is an important pillar of the work ethic. I understand that these programs have been eliminated by many schools, and I think they have made a fundamental mistake in doing so, which has already been harmful to America and so many other nations.


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## plantek (Sep 26, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Making a Wooden Ball - part 1*
> 
> *Here is what I'm trying to make*
> 
> ...


This is awesome.
I just bought a lathe last weekend and already you have me thinking about some advanced stuff.
I'm looking forward to your next post.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Making a Wooden Ball - part 1*
> 
> *Here is what I'm trying to make*
> 
> ...


Turning is a lot of fun *Plantek* So I'm sure you will be getting a lot of entertainment out of your new lathe. The learning curve is very steep so it won't be very long before you can turn just about anything you want.


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

stefang said:


> *Making a Wooden Ball - part 1*
> 
> *Here is what I'm trying to make*
> 
> ...


Here is a thought..


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Making a Wooden Ball - part 1*
> 
> *Here is what I'm trying to make*
> 
> ...


Thanks so much for this idea/design Lew. It has all the earmarks of a good design for ball cutting, simple, stable, and heavy, and I love the screw adjustment. In fact I like it enough to actually build it. I appreciate this help, especially since it is something I can make with wood. I will of course post it when finished with full credit to the inventor.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

*Making a Wooden Ball - part 2*

*This is what I'm trying to make:*










I hope you haven't given up on me with this blog. My wife and I spent about a week moving my 92 year old MIL to an old folks home and then a few days recovering from the heavy lifting. We got her new place furnished nicely and my wife sewed some draperies. She seems real pleased with the change after living alone for the last 44 years. Now she has folks of her own generation to socialize with on a daily basis and she has all her everyday needs well attended to.

You might recall that we left off with the ball having been turned on the lathe as shown below.









*Mostly finished ball on the lathe* above

The next task was to sand off the axle nubs from parting the ball off the lathe. I like to use the disk sander for this because the cups used to hold the ball for the finishing up isn't so secure when you turn off the nubs.










*sanding on disk sander* above

After removing most of the nubs on the sander I remounted the ball back on the lathe in some cup holders to finish turning the end grain part of the ball and to sand the whole thing smooth. *Note that the center line on the ball which was in a vertical position on the original lathe mount is now horizontal in line with the lathe's axis.*










*Ball in the cup holders on lathe* above

The finished ball at last! It looks almost round too.










*finished ball* above

The last job is marking the ball up for drilling. There will be a total of 32 tapered holes in the ball, 20 constellation holes and 12 primary holes. The constellation holes are all drilled first at the same time. Each primary hole is drilled separately afterward and the turning of the 4 inner balls is done before moving on to the next primary hole.

The larger *primary* holes will be used to turn all 4 balls within the main ball (5 balls total), while the smaller *constellation* holes are used to help clear waste that can't be reached by the turning tools.

The marking is done with a compass according to ball geometry to locate all the holes so that they are evenly distributed around the ball.* Please note that you need to have an accurate sized ball and it has to be very round (near but not perfect)* I've darkened the lines to make it easier for you to see.

The primary hole will be located at the center of each 'flower' while there will be 5 constellation holes surrounding each primary hole which you can see in the photo below.

*The book "Woodturning Wizardry" by David Springett explains how to do the marking.*










*Marked up ball* above

In the next blog I will show you how the 10 constellation holes are drilled while being held with the ball chuck. I hope you find this work interesting. Thanks for reading. The following links cover all the blogs in the series to date.

http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/27858 #1
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/27938 #2
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28079 #3
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28240 #4
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28512 #5
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28536 #6


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

stefang said:


> *Making a Wooden Ball - part 2*
> 
> *This is what I'm trying to make:*
> 
> ...


This is a interesting process Mike thanks for the great blog.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Making a Wooden Ball - part 2*
> 
> *This is what I'm trying to make:*
> 
> ...


Thanks Jim. The blogs have been a little sporadic but I'm getting pretty close to finishing up now. I hope 3 more will do the trick. One for drilling the constellation holes, the next covering the primary holes/turning all the balls, and finally one covering nice little stand for it. The stand will be quite different than Yuri's.


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## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

stefang said:


> *Making a Wooden Ball - part 2*
> 
> *This is what I'm trying to make:*
> 
> ...


I really find this so interesting. Thanks.

Nice to see you off of the porch,
Steve


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## BritBoxmaker (Feb 1, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Making a Wooden Ball - part 2*
> 
> *This is what I'm trying to make:*
> 
> ...


A different ball to Yuri's as well. All curves looks a little more tricky.


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Making a Wooden Ball - part 2*
> 
> *This is what I'm trying to make:*
> 
> ...


great blog mike

you really help to understand this process

thank you !


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Making a Wooden Ball - part 2*
> 
> *This is what I'm trying to make:*
> 
> ...


I miss that porch Steve. I can't wait until we get good enough weather to sit on it again!

Yes Martyn, I think this ball may be a bit more complex, but I have no doubt that Yuri wouldn't be too challenged doing this one either. He is very resourceful and an amazing craftsman. Mine will be a bit more difficult than the finished one shown above though. You will see the difference when I finish it, I'm *almost* quite confident that will happen. And BTW it hasn't happened so far!


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Making a Wooden Ball - part 2*
> 
> *This is what I'm trying to make:*
> 
> ...


Thanks David, I hope others will feel the same way.


----------



## Schwieb (Dec 3, 2008)

stefang said:


> *Making a Wooden Ball - part 2*
> 
> *This is what I'm trying to make:*
> 
> ...


Mike, You're a really brave man to take this on. I find it very fascinating. I had to make a ball using a jig basically like your's, just to prove I could. Thanks for posting.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Making a Wooden Ball - part 2*
> 
> *This is what I'm trying to make:*
> 
> ...


oh, I can see, yer gonna have a ball makin this


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Making a Wooden Ball - part 2*
> 
> *This is what I'm trying to make:*
> 
> ...


Good Ken. Did it come out ok? Hi Roger you right on the ball with that comment! It will be all good fun until I mess it up.


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## chief101 (Oct 30, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Making a Wooden Ball - part 2*
> 
> *This is what I'm trying to make:*
> 
> ...


I find this very interesting and enjoy the craftsmanship. Looking for the next post.


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Making a Wooden Ball - part 2*
> 
> *This is what I'm trying to make:*
> 
> ...


Great stuff Mike. I hope you recover from the MIL move. Now what I am waiting on is a demo of those handmade turning tools. The project process is very interesting and fun to see. Thanks for posting.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Making a Wooden Ball - part 2*
> 
> *This is what I'm trying to make:*
> 
> ...


Thanks Dale and Dave. Before the actual turning begins, I have to drill the the constellation (smaller) holes. I plan to do this today. I will be blogging the procedure and and the results if all goes well later on today.


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Making a Wooden Ball - part 2*
> 
> *This is what I'm trying to make:*
> 
> ...


Nice.


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## whydee (Jan 18, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Making a Wooden Ball - part 2*
> 
> *This is what I'm trying to make:*
> 
> ...


You are so good and thorough in making the ball and explaining the process. Your blog has way more sense compared with mine on HOW TO. I was never good with words, I should do the video on the next ball 

Thank you very much for sharing!


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Making a Wooden Ball - part 2*
> 
> *This is what I'm trying to make:*
> 
> ...


Hi Yuri, we would be a great team. I could write the blog and you could do all the work. I'm sure I would have the same problem if I had to write my blogs in Norwegian. It would take me more time than doing the actual work. I think a video, as you suggest, would be a great way to show how your work is done. Videos wouldn't work for me. Nobody wants to see an old man going around in circles, lol.

Our methods are somewhat different, and I think it is especially interesting to see that similar things can be done in different ways. You are inventing new ways to do the work, while I am mainly just following the book. I have great respect for your creativity and skills. I look forward to your video.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

*Drilling the 22 constellation holes in the ball*

*Here is what I am trying to make:*









Here is where we left off at the end of the last blog with the ball marked up to locate the 22 *constellation* holes (the small ones) and the 12 *primary *holes









Today was used to drill the constellation holes. These holes are done first as the are needed to remove waste that the curved undercutting tools can't reach. They also provide some space for the cuttings to go as the inner balls are turned.

*A few words about the importance of doing careful work while drilling these holes*

The constellation holes have to be drilled with great care because if one is messed up then the project becomes a practice ball instead of the nicely finished curiosity you might have been dreaming about. The following list are the things you need to do this work properly. *These observations are based on my hard earned experience.*

1. A good chuck that will hold the ball tightly while being turned.
2. A Jacobs chuck to fit the tailstock of your lathe (preferably the kind you can tighten by hand).
3. Sharp drills are essential. Dull drills wander and will knock the ball off center, even with a good chuck

*The drill bits*
Only four drills are actually needed as follows: 9mm, 6mm, 4mm and 3mm. These drill only about 4mm each as you can see by the depth marks when lined up. Each hole is drilled until the depth mark gets to the ball surface. The 5th drill is a 9mm twist drill used to start drill the primary holes which will be reamed out to 18mm after drilling.

For the constellation holes I have used brad drills for the first 3 used on each hole starting with the largest bit. and a twist drill for the 4th and smallest bit.

I used the brad point drills because my twist drills in the correct sizes weren't sharp enough and I wanted to get on with the work.

The brad bits work well enough as long as the brad isn't wider or longer than the drill which follows it. Sharp twist drills are the bit of choice though because the spurs on the brad bits cut slightly deeper on the outside perimeter of the hole than in the center.









*Drills lined up on their depth marks to show the length of the hole at each level* above

Here the bits are line up under my lathe bed and ready to use (as mentioned above, only 4 will actually be used, the shiny ones)









*drills ready for use.* above

*Preparing the Chuck*
Sandpaper grippers have been stuck on with double sided tape to the interior of the chuck and around the inside rim of the chuck collar. I had to add an extra layer to the ones in the collar as the ball was still a little loose with only one layer (not shown).









*The ball chuck ready* above

*Headstock/tailstock alignment*
It's very important to make sure your headstock and tailstock are properly aligned to insure that all holes to be drilled will point to the center of the ball (Think radial holes)









*The headstock/tailstock are properly aligned* above

*Proper mounting of the ball in the chuck*

The ball is being mounted in the chuck. Please note that I am applying pressure on the ball with my revolving tailstock center first to center the ball and secondly to keep it in place while I tighten the chuck collar.

I am using my battery drill, but only to screw in most of the way to save time and effort. A regular screw driver is used for careful final tightening to prevent dragging the ball off-center. This is done gradually by keeping a pretty even gap between the collar and the chuck body all around as it is tightened.









*Mounting the ball in the chuck* above

*Drill sequence*
I took the authors advice from the book, which is to begin with the largest drill bit first and working towards the smallest. This helps prevent drill wander and knocking the ball off center.

The first hole is started in the picture. It's very important to take it slow and easy and not force the drill in to the ball too quickly. I blow out the sawdust between each drill bit. When finished you will have drilled 22 constellation holes, each with 4 drills or actually 88 holes. Establishing a good routine helps to keep the work moving at quicker pace.

*Having the right attitude for this sometimes tedious work*
My advice on drilling these holes is to take your time and regard each hole as a small somewhat delicate project and give yourself a pat on the back each time one is successfully completed.

*Turning the rim around the constellation holes*
The last part is to turn the little rim around the hole as soon as it's finish drilled. Less is better than more might be a good thought to have while doing these rims. If your ball is still centered perfectly all will go well, otherwise you have a rim that is wider on one side than the other.

The rim part was a challenge. I use a miniature skew chisel to turn them. I can't say that I am entirely satisfied with the result, but not to worry, I know I will get better with experience.









*First hole started* above

*Todays grand finale
The first 5 holes completed without any major disasters, whoopee!









*First five holes completed* above

And finally all 22 holes completed (whew). 









*All 22 holes satisfactorily drilled* above

*What's next?*
My next blog in this series will cover the special tool rest I made and actually turning the 4 inner balls. I can't guarantee that this work will go well. If successful, I will blog it. If not I will have to turn a new ball and drill those 22 holes again. I really hope that won't happen

Thank you for reading this. It's too wordy, but I want the readers to be aware of some of the pitfalls which can avoided with good practice. The following links cover all the blogs in the series to date.

http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/27858 #1
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/27938 #2
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28079 #3
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28240 #4
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28512 #5
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28536 #6


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## toyguy (Nov 23, 2007)

stefang said:


> *Drilling the 22 constellation holes in the ball*
> 
> *Here is what I am trying to make:*
> 
> ...


facinateing….....


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## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

stefang said:


> *Drilling the 22 constellation holes in the ball*
> 
> *Here is what I am trying to make:*
> 
> ...


Gotta blog either way - good and bad. (easy for me to say)
This is getting exciting.

Steve


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## lanwater (May 14, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Drilling the 22 constellation holes in the ball*
> 
> *Here is what I am trying to make:*
> 
> ...


Hopefully it will be successfull.

It's indeed facinating.


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## SisQMark (Apr 13, 2011)

stefang said:


> *Drilling the 22 constellation holes in the ball*
> 
> *Here is what I am trying to make:*
> 
> ...


This is really cool Mike. I can't wait to see the completed project. Hey, good luck with the turning!
Mark


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## chief101 (Oct 30, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Drilling the 22 constellation holes in the ball*
> 
> *Here is what I am trying to make:*
> 
> ...


Whew!


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Drilling the 22 constellation holes in the ball*
> 
> *Here is what I am trying to make:*
> 
> ...


Ok Mike I have to ask. Is there a bucket next to the lathe with a bunch of missed drilled balls in it?
I do like the liquid paper marker. The ball jig is a accomplishment in itself. Great series and we await the next installment.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Drilling the 22 constellation holes in the ball*
> 
> *Here is what I am trying to make:*
> 
> ...


No Dave. That is a bucket of water to douse my cutting tools after hardening and tempering. That is not to say that there are no casualties laying around. All will be revealed in at the right time, so please stay tuned.

BTW I have decided to drop using a ball jig. Turning by hand is a lot less stressful/tedious and just as accurate. A better ball jig would be ok, but to be honest if someone is going to turn a lot of balls he will get better at it each time he turns one by hand. I also place a higher value on handwork, and I think you do too.


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## whydee (Jan 18, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Drilling the 22 constellation holes in the ball*
> 
> *Here is what I am trying to make:*
> 
> ...


I'm sure it will be fine.


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Drilling the 22 constellation holes in the ball*
> 
> *Here is what I am trying to make:*
> 
> ...


lot's of prep work in this
i know you are excited as we are

well documented process

keep them coming


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## Timbo (Aug 21, 2008)

stefang said:


> *Drilling the 22 constellation holes in the ball*
> 
> *Here is what I am trying to make:*
> 
> ...


Hope the turning goes well. I know all too well how a dull bit wanders, even more so on a lathe.


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## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Drilling the 22 constellation holes in the ball*
> 
> *Here is what I am trying to make:*
> 
> ...


This is really interesting Mike! You are really doing well.

I'm looking forward to your next post already.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Drilling the 22 constellation holes in the ball*
> 
> *Here is what I am trying to make:*
> 
> ...


Keeping those fingers crossed for you Mike. 
I have confidence that this ball will make it to the ball.


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## kiefer (Feb 5, 2011)

stefang said:


> *Drilling the 22 constellation holes in the ball*
> 
> *Here is what I am trying to make:*
> 
> ...


Interesting process and I am intrigued by this ball inside a ball inside a ball .
I will be watching as you go along .
Love the tools and chuck you fabricated .

Kifer


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Drilling the 22 constellation holes in the ball*
> 
> *Here is what I am trying to make:*
> 
> ...


Thanks to everyone . I know from your work that you guys are all are better craftsmen than myself, so I appreciate your encouraging words which help motivate me to the finish. This has been my most challenging project to date and I am actually enjoying it, including the failures along the way which all teach me something. When I started woodworking I never would have thought that my attention span or motivation was adequate for this kind of work.


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## jockmike2 (Oct 10, 2006)

stefang said:


> *Drilling the 22 constellation holes in the ball*
> 
> *Here is what I am trying to make:*
> 
> ...


Hi Mike, long time since I posted on one your blogs. Glad you are still showing us a thing or two about how to do things right. You know you're one of the best craftsman on this site and this only proves it. Keep up the lessons buddy. Mike


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

stefang said:


> *Drilling the 22 constellation holes in the ball*
> 
> *Here is what I am trying to make:*
> 
> ...


Mike,
Great blog series. It has fascinated me to watch/read your journey up to this point. Looking forward to more!


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Drilling the 22 constellation holes in the ball*
> 
> *Here is what I am trying to make:*
> 
> ...


very interesting, indeed


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Drilling the 22 constellation holes in the ball*
> 
> *Here is what I am trying to make:*
> 
> ...


It's great having all you guys along for the ride. I am not here as an expert to show everybody how to do it. I am learning this stuff as I blog and just sharing my experience. I like to travel the road, but it's always better to do it with good companions to share the thrills and spills along the way.


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## Kristoffer (Aug 5, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Drilling the 22 constellation holes in the ball*
> 
> *Here is what I am trying to make:*
> 
> ...


Just copy and paste what jockmike2 said. My fingers are crossed and I can't wait to see the finished product. 
I wish that I could afford to jump on a plane and spend a week in your shop with you.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Drilling the 22 constellation holes in the ball*
> 
> *Here is what I am trying to make:*
> 
> ...


You are welcome anytime Kristoffer. I think it's amusing when I have the grandkids in the shop. They see everything that I miss and then some. They actually have an aptitude for the work. These days I spend most of my time picking up tools off the floor that I knocked off while bumbling around. No matter, I still enjoy myself out there.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Drilling the 22 constellation holes in the ball*
> 
> *Here is what I am trying to make:*
> 
> ...


Cool Mike, really a gift to see this come along.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Drilling the 22 constellation holes in the ball*
> 
> *Here is what I am trying to make:*
> 
> ...


Thanks *Mads* To be honest, this has been a struggle for me. I am hoping to finish up this project and the blog, but my MIL's move and other things has taken up a lot of time. I did get into the shop a little today just for cleaning up and I rearranged a few things so I could get more space for my scroll saw. I want to try some marquetry work soon. I've been admiring Paul's (Shipwright) work. I doubt I will be every good at it, but I want to give it a try anyway. I'm putting up a question on the Forum about that right now. I hope all is well with you and your Daughter.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Drilling the 22 constellation holes in the ball*
> 
> *Here is what I am trying to make:*
> 
> ...


Mike I think also it is quite a project, so I am really impressed, even for the fact you are trying.
All well here.
Life moves fast these days.
Lots to tell about at a later time.
Smiles and love, so all is in a good direction.
Best thoughts to you and yours,
Mads


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Drilling the 22 constellation holes in the ball*
> 
> *Here is what I am trying to make:*
> 
> ...


Thanks Mads. No need to be impressed. This is a big challenge for men but there are so many here on LJ who could do it much better. I'm glad to hear that life is positive. The fast part is just a blur to me these days, but I am doing my best to hang on.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Drilling the 22 constellation holes in the ball*
> 
> *Here is what I am trying to make:*
> 
> ...


Have a lovely weekend Mike.
Here the sun shine and my heart beats a beautiful music.
Mads


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Drilling the 22 constellation holes in the ball*
> 
> *Here is what I am trying to make:*
> 
> ...


Thanks Mads and the same for you too.


----------



## Blacky15 (Mar 28, 2018)

stefang said:


> *Drilling the 22 constellation holes in the ball*
> 
> *Here is what I am trying to make:*
> 
> ...


Hi Stefang, that is very interesting.
I was looking for long of some help with those tools, I wanted to make them by myself cause they are too expensive and I the book from David Springett and couldn't understand the info really good but from you I got much better.
Thank you very much


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Drilling the 22 constellation holes in the ball*
> 
> *Here is what I am trying to make:*
> 
> ...


Hi Blacky, I do hope you have success with this. Unfortunately I never did manage to make a completely successful ball. I came close a couple of times, but I eventually had to give up as my tools were heating up and bending. I used regular steel platters to make the cutters with and I probably didn't temper them properly so I imagine they were just to soft/fragile. I do think everything would have turned out ok if the steel had held up. I don't really know anything about metal working and I don't know anyone that does, so I finally gave up. I guess I could just buy the tools and I might still do that, but I still like the idea of making my own. Let me know if you have any useful tips.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

*A Small But Significant Victory*

*Hi Friends. The Chinese Ball war isn't over yet*, but I did manage to win a battle today. I was able to successfully turn all four inner balls in the first main (primary) hole. The first two holes are turned in end grain. The book suggests turning those first. I suppose to save a lot of time in case one of these aren't successful and the ball is wasted.

*On the negative side*, I did a little damage to the rim around one of the small (secondary) holes. I think I can fix that. Otherwise I managed to compress the wood around the primary hole with the tool holder, which is radiused and used as a stop to keep the cutter at the right depth while work is underway. I will try to use a lighter touch next time. Meanwhile I sprayed it with some water to swell the compressed wood back to normal. That seemed to work ok.

*Here are some photos of the work progression and the tools used for each step*: First photo is the tapered hole used for entry by the cutting tools. The hole is first drill with a 9mm drill to a depth of 22mm and then widened and tapered using the tool shown in photo 2 at the far right. Now we have an entry hole for the undercutting tools.


















Here is the #1 cutting tool in photo 1 and at full depth cutting in photo2 below.


















Below are tools #2, #3, and #4 before insertion just to show you the difference lengths for each inner ball. On this last pic you can see where I compressed the ball with the tool holder and also the messed up rim around the secondary hole.


























And lastly a shot showing all four inner balls successfully turned by your overwrought blogger. I forgot to mention earlier that this ball is Maple.










This was a very positive experience, but I still have a long way to go before all 12 holes are finished. I just hope that it goes equally well on the next 11!

Thanks for reading. I'm sorry this blog is taking so long, but family business has caused delays plus I was nursing a bum knee for a few days. Everything seems to get out of control when you get old! So long for now.

http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/27858 #1
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/27938 #2
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28079 #3
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28240 #4
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28512 #5
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28536 #6
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28866 #7


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## Timbo (Aug 21, 2008)

stefang said:


> *A Small But Significant Victory*
> 
> *Hi Friends. The Chinese Ball war isn't over yet*, but I did manage to win a battle today. I was able to successfully turn all four inner balls in the first main (primary) hole. The first two holes are turned in end grain. The book suggests turning those first. I suppose to save a lot of time in case one of these aren't successful and the ball is wasted.
> 
> ...


Wow good going Mike! If I understand correctly each ball is created by a different tool? Does the outer part of the tool ride on the outer ball? Interesting to watch and learn this, thanks. Good luck on the next 11.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *A Small But Significant Victory*
> 
> *Hi Friends. The Chinese Ball war isn't over yet*, but I did manage to win a battle today. I was able to successfully turn all four inner balls in the first main (primary) hole. The first two holes are turned in end grain. The book suggests turning those first. I suppose to save a lot of time in case one of these aren't successful and the ball is wasted.
> 
> ...


Hi *Tim*. Yes, each inner ball is turned with a different cutting tool all with different radii on the cutting tip, and of course different lengths. The tool holders which have the cutters attached with screws have radiused front ends which are meant to lightly ride on the ball. I have softened the edges on these, but they still compress the wood when it is against the ball while cutting. I just have to get more experience to learn how to avoid the problem.


----------



## whydee (Jan 18, 2009)

stefang said:


> *A Small But Significant Victory*
> 
> *Hi Friends. The Chinese Ball war isn't over yet*, but I did manage to win a battle today. I was able to successfully turn all four inner balls in the first main (primary) hole. The first two holes are turned in end grain. The book suggests turning those first. I suppose to save a lot of time in case one of these aren't successful and the ball is wasted.
> 
> ...


Go Mike Go!!! Because direction of the grain on each hole is different treat each hole as an individual project. You may want to try using paraffin/wax to make wood a bit stronger when you go to a smaller size. Worked for me. What speed you lathe is set to?
Can't wait for the next part. Good luck!
Yuri


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *A Small But Significant Victory*
> 
> *Hi Friends. The Chinese Ball war isn't over yet*, but I did manage to win a battle today. I was able to successfully turn all four inner balls in the first main (primary) hole. The first two holes are turned in end grain. The book suggests turning those first. I suppose to save a lot of time in case one of these aren't successful and the ball is wasted.
> 
> ...


Thanks *Yuri*! I think my lathe is set at 1200 rpm. I have only three speeds, 450, 1200 and 2200 if I remember correctly. I'll have to check it tomorrow if I'm lucky enough to get into the shop.

I'm not sure what you mean about using paraffin or wax. Do you mean I should coat the entry hole with it? Are you talking about liquid or candle wax?


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

stefang said:


> *A Small But Significant Victory*
> 
> *Hi Friends. The Chinese Ball war isn't over yet*, but I did manage to win a battle today. I was able to successfully turn all four inner balls in the first main (primary) hole. The first two holes are turned in end grain. The book suggests turning those first. I suppose to save a lot of time in case one of these aren't successful and the ball is wasted.
> 
> ...


great sequence mike

easy does it
don't expect to learn chinese
in one week

it took them thousands of years
and most still can't speak it


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *A Small But Significant Victory*
> 
> *Hi Friends. The Chinese Ball war isn't over yet*, but I did manage to win a battle today. I was able to successfully turn all four inner balls in the first main (primary) hole. The first two holes are turned in end grain. The book suggests turning those first. I suppose to save a lot of time in case one of these aren't successful and the ball is wasted.
> 
> ...


They can speak it *David, they just don't have time to talk while they are turning out cheap woodworking machines and tools for folks like me with shallow pockets.


----------



## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

stefang said:


> *A Small But Significant Victory*
> 
> *Hi Friends. The Chinese Ball war isn't over yet*, but I did manage to win a battle today. I was able to successfully turn all four inner balls in the first main (primary) hole. The first two holes are turned in end grain. The book suggests turning those first. I suppose to save a lot of time in case one of these aren't successful and the ball is wasted.
> 
> ...


wow mike, this is really coming together huh, those tools you made are fantastic, they are sure to give you the ability you need to move ahead on this, its really quite incredible, and its much smaller then i thought it would be, i have full confidence that you will get this right, and cant wait to see the final results..grizz


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

stefang said:


> *A Small But Significant Victory*
> 
> *Hi Friends. The Chinese Ball war isn't over yet*, but I did manage to win a battle today. I was able to successfully turn all four inner balls in the first main (primary) hole. The first two holes are turned in end grain. The book suggests turning those first. I suppose to save a lot of time in case one of these aren't successful and the ball is wasted.
> 
> ...


This is fascinating Mike. It's really starting to come together (or rather apart if you wish) now.
Your attention to detail seems to be standing you in good stead. 
No need to rush, but there are several of us out here holding our collective breath.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

stefang said:


> *A Small But Significant Victory*
> 
> *Hi Friends. The Chinese Ball war isn't over yet*, but I did manage to win a battle today. I was able to successfully turn all four inner balls in the first main (primary) hole. The first two holes are turned in end grain. The book suggests turning those first. I suppose to save a lot of time in case one of these aren't successful and the ball is wasted.
> 
> ...


Great work Mike and your patience is amazing. I will go with the other guys and say slow and easy. It is so often when I see the finish line I get in a hurry and mess something up. You have us all hanging on the edge of our seats.
Keep up the good work.


----------



## whydee (Jan 18, 2009)

stefang said:


> *A Small But Significant Victory*
> 
> *Hi Friends. The Chinese Ball war isn't over yet*, but I did manage to win a battle today. I was able to successfully turn all four inner balls in the first main (primary) hole. The first two holes are turned in end grain. The book suggests turning those first. I suppose to save a lot of time in case one of these aren't successful and the ball is wasted.
> 
> ...


Mike, little comment from my own experience, when I work with small wood peaces (especially soft wood) I sharpen tool bits like it shows on the picture 2 or 3 and turn at a lower speed 600-800. I consider small peace when I have only handful grain lines when I look on the end grain side. And If the grains are tide, wood is hard enough or turning peace half an inch or more in diameter I would go with higher speed and with the tool bit shown on the first picture. 









Waxing also helps me strengthening the wood. *Only use this technique if you don't have to glue peaces together and only if you final finish will be waxing.* After making rough cut I pour liquified candle wax while keep heating the wood with heat gun. Work peace gets saturated with wax. *Heat gun can and will change the color of the wood*. I always keep checking by touch the work peace temperature. I keep it worm but not hot unless I want to highlight wood grains. Try experimenting on cherry or maple wood one day.

Paraffin is harder than candle wax. I use it in combine with wooden pecks to hold internal peaces in place to prevent cracking especially when I'm on my "last hole"

Get well my friend and take it easy.


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## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

stefang said:


> *A Small But Significant Victory*
> 
> *Hi Friends. The Chinese Ball war isn't over yet*, but I did manage to win a battle today. I was able to successfully turn all four inner balls in the first main (primary) hole. The first two holes are turned in end grain. The book suggests turning those first. I suppose to save a lot of time in case one of these aren't successful and the ball is wasted.
> 
> ...


Each hole will be a little bit more exciting! So far - so good!

This is a fun blog to follow.


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## littlecope (Oct 23, 2008)

stefang said:


> *A Small But Significant Victory*
> 
> *Hi Friends. The Chinese Ball war isn't over yet*, but I did manage to win a battle today. I was able to successfully turn all four inner balls in the first main (primary) hole. The first two holes are turned in end grain. The book suggests turning those first. I suppose to save a lot of time in case one of these aren't successful and the ball is wasted.
> 
> ...


Great Project and Presentation Mike!!
A real "nail-biter" for your humble reader… I can only imagine how nerve wracking this would be to actually do!!
Good Luck on the remaining turnings my Friend!!


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## Schwieb (Dec 3, 2008)

stefang said:


> *A Small But Significant Victory*
> 
> *Hi Friends. The Chinese Ball war isn't over yet*, but I did manage to win a battle today. I was able to successfully turn all four inner balls in the first main (primary) hole. The first two holes are turned in end grain. The book suggests turning those first. I suppose to save a lot of time in case one of these aren't successful and the ball is wasted.
> 
> ...


This is great Mike. The more I watch this the more I appreciate the challenge and the tools you made to meet the requirements. Terrific work.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *A Small But Significant Victory*
> 
> *Hi Friends. The Chinese Ball war isn't over yet*, but I did manage to win a battle today. I was able to successfully turn all four inner balls in the first main (primary) hole. The first two holes are turned in end grain. The book suggests turning those first. I suppose to save a lot of time in case one of these aren't successful and the ball is wasted.
> 
> ...


*Thanks for all the support guys*. Yes, it has been a long road and I am not what you would call a gifted or intuitive woodworker. I usually have to learn everything through trial and error, which has certainly been the case with this project. My greatest asset is that I am willing to try things way beyond my ability and stick with it until I succeed or perhaps die of old age, whichever comes first.

Whether this is patience, stubbornness or just plain ignorance, I'm not sure! I have learned, as I'm sure most of you have, that it is the difficult, complicated projects that grows our skills and that ultimately we are most proud of. I have to admit that this project has been my biggest woodworking (and metalworking) challenge to date. My end goal is to make balls for the family and some friends to have as curiosity and conversation pieces. For me, the having patience part will kick in when I have to make all of those balls. I hope I can stick with it at that point. I already feel I want to move on and try some marquetry work.

*Dave* I too get all excited when I am nearing the end of a project. When that happens I often forget important things and mess everything up or (as I am famous for in my family circle) I don't know when to stop and I often mess things up doing that last 'finishing touch'. On the positive side I have developed good fixing skills and that's probably where I do my best work.

*Yuri* Thank you for the good tips. I like the paraffin idea and if I can get the right product I will give it a try. I suppose I can't just melt some candles down for this?

As for turning the ball, I use exactly the edge angle in your drawing. I am only doing these freehand now and I use a heavy round nosed scraper which works very well and I finish with a small gouge. I am also using a different technique, perhaps similar to yours. I first turn the ball between centers and leave a large end that can be held in my 4 jaw chuck after parting off the other end, which I then turn smooth, then I cut the ball off the chuck and put it in my ball chuck to turn the last nub off. Works great!

For this ball I had planned turning wooden plugs to hold everything in place for each hole as it is completed. I did like your idea of making these from paraffin and sawdust. Do you just pour it into the entry hole onto the bare wood or do you put some plastic film or other material in first to keep it isolated from the wood? Can these plugs be used more than once? I hope you don't mind all the questions!


----------



## whydee (Jan 18, 2009)

stefang said:


> *A Small But Significant Victory*
> 
> *Hi Friends. The Chinese Ball war isn't over yet*, but I did manage to win a battle today. I was able to successfully turn all four inner balls in the first main (primary) hole. The first two holes are turned in end grain. The book suggests turning those first. I suppose to save a lot of time in case one of these aren't successful and the ball is wasted.
> 
> ...


Here are some plugs I used on last balls. You can see that some of them had quite a bit of wax on to hold or actually to glue internal peaces:









When I start making hole marked with blue arrow I felt and heard nocking. So I pulled the ball and I filled the gaps between the plug and the ball with candle wax. Basically, wax was just dripping in. The hole showed in the picture still had to be widen by 0.2 mm. The inside walls are not finished but wax made them look like its done (shiny already)









Because, I always finish with Carnauba wax I don't put any film, paper, etc. between the wooden plug and the ball. Little bit of scraping and polishing cleans all unwanted wax with ease. Also I find wax can "hide" some of the defects


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *A Small But Significant Victory*
> 
> *Hi Friends. The Chinese Ball war isn't over yet*, but I did manage to win a battle today. I was able to successfully turn all four inner balls in the first main (primary) hole. The first two holes are turned in end grain. The book suggests turning those first. I suppose to save a lot of time in case one of these aren't successful and the ball is wasted.
> 
> ...


This seems like good ideas *Yuri* I will keep them in mind as problems arise. I will be doing some more holes today in a little while. I am looking forward to turning the side grain holes to see how that goes. I expect I will probably find new problems with those. I am really enjoying myself now after having some success with the first two holes. I hope the others will be just as good or even better.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

*Learned Something New Today?*

*Today was a total success!* I proved that my wooden plugs just weren't good enough! Now to be fair I have gotten some good advice on how to make my plugs from *Yuri*, but apropos to *JimA1*'s latest blog on advice, I choose to ignore it and I have been duly rewarded with a new learning point, Aka disaster.

*I was determined to continue today* and I felt a little uncertain about Yuris method and the time it would take for me to experiment with it, so I continued with the wooden plugs. I reckoned that I would use his method on my next ball.

*The wood plugs stayed tight in the first two holes*, but I suspect they didn't give uniform support to the 4 inner layers. This resulted in a breakout between #2 and #3 holes at level three and four where they intersect. The damage is too great for any kind of fix.

*Now I have to turn a new ball* and drill the 20 secondary holes I will need before I begin turning the inner balls again. That is ok, because I had planned some tactical changes in the way I will do that ball and of course I plan to use Yuri's plugs. Below are some photos to show what I did today.

*Here is some experimentation with making the plugs a new way (which failed of course). I have put the large diameter end of the plug at the tailstock end instead of the headstock end as before. This is so I can test it for fitting and remount it on the lathe to refine it if necessary, which I couldn't do before with the plug the other way around.*









*Here the plug is being tested for fit and it needs some adjustment*.









*2nd test fit after a little more turning and it seems ok. Now hole #2 is ready to be plugged and the work on hole #3 can begin.*









*Hole #3 with the catastrophic result as explained above. If you look closely you can see where a section is broken out between the two main holes on layers 3 and 4*.









*So another chapter in this exciting turning melodrama comes to a close*. It's looking dark right now, but soon the light will shine through and you will be able to say "He did it!" (maybe).

Thanks for reading and have a great weekend. The links to this project blog are below.

http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/27858 #1
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/27938 #2
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28079 #3
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28240 #4
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28512 #5
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28536 #6
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28866 #7


----------



## GrandpaLen (Mar 6, 2012)

stefang said:


> *Learned Something New Today?*
> 
> *Today was a total success!* I proved that my wooden plugs just weren't good enough! Now to be fair I have gotten some good advice on how to make my plugs from *Yuri*, but apropos to *JimA1*'s latest blog on advice, I choose to ignore it and I have been duly rewarded with a new learning point, Aka disaster.
> 
> ...


You Sir, have my undying respect.

Your patience makes Job seem like a whiny 5 year old.

I was up half of the night catching up on your project blogs after I just happened upon your most recent blog.
I am hooked on this project blog thread, as are most LJs from what I read.

God's Speed (well easy on the speed part)


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Learned Something New Today?*
> 
> *Today was a total success!* I proved that my wooden plugs just weren't good enough! Now to be fair I have gotten some good advice on how to make my plugs from *Yuri*, but apropos to *JimA1*'s latest blog on advice, I choose to ignore it and I have been duly rewarded with a new learning point, Aka disaster.
> 
> ...


well live and learn mike

it got us this far
no sense in giving up now

still makes me wonder 
how these were done before

i always imagined
they used dental picks
and just whittled away


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Learned Something New Today?*
> 
> *Today was a total success!* I proved that my wooden plugs just weren't good enough! Now to be fair I have gotten some good advice on how to make my plugs from *Yuri*, but apropos to *JimA1*'s latest blog on advice, I choose to ignore it and I have been duly rewarded with a new learning point, Aka disaster.
> 
> ...


Well *Len* it's all part of the fun. "Live and learn" as *David* says. Dental picks sound like an interesting idea right now. I'm beginning to feel like a research scientist (minus the brains of course).

Honestly though, I am not discouraged in the least. How we experience things has a lot to do with our attitudes. My attitude on this project is that I learn something from every event, positive or negative. Of course sometimes the negatives outnumber the positives or alternatively as sung in the Robin Hood animated film from the 1970's "sometimes the ups outnumber the downs" Do you remember that one?

I will admit that I thought I would be very disappointed if this ball failed, but surprisingly, even to myself, I'm not. My experience with this project so far has only strengthened my resolve as I go through the steps. Eventual victory will be sweeter because of the many set-backs I've experienced so far. Now I just have to stay alive long enough to finish!


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

stefang said:


> *Learned Something New Today?*
> 
> *Today was a total success!* I proved that my wooden plugs just weren't good enough! Now to be fair I have gotten some good advice on how to make my plugs from *Yuri*, but apropos to *JimA1*'s latest blog on advice, I choose to ignore it and I have been duly rewarded with a new learning point, Aka disaster.
> 
> ...


I was afraid that might happen;-( Glad you are taking it in stride. How about waxing the holes for release later and epoxying the plugs in place for total support?


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Learned Something New Today?*
> 
> *Today was a total success!* I proved that my wooden plugs just weren't good enough! Now to be fair I have gotten some good advice on how to make my plugs from *Yuri*, but apropos to *JimA1*'s latest blog on advice, I choose to ignore it and I have been duly rewarded with a new learning point, Aka disaster.
> 
> ...


Hi *Bob*. The wax part sounds good. I am planning to try making the plugs out of candle wax and sawdust like *Yuri* suggested. He has made these balls and he knows it works well. Just pour it in, let it cool and bingo, everything is held in place! I'm still not sure about the getting it out part. I think I will try it out first on my ruined ball to get a feel for the method. If that ball isn't enough, I have others…...............

Now I am dying to know if you have done any turning with that lathe you bought?


----------



## phtaylor36 (Jun 13, 2011)

stefang said:


> *Learned Something New Today?*
> 
> *Today was a total success!* I proved that my wooden plugs just weren't good enough! Now to be fair I have gotten some good advice on how to make my plugs from *Yuri*, but apropos to *JimA1*'s latest blog on advice, I choose to ignore it and I have been duly rewarded with a new learning point, Aka disaster.
> 
> ...


Mike,

This is absolutely incredible. Keep it up, you will succeed for sure and go down in LJ history. The photos at every step are very informative.

Good luck!


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Learned Something New Today?*
> 
> *Today was a total success!* I proved that my wooden plugs just weren't good enough! Now to be fair I have gotten some good advice on how to make my plugs from *Yuri*, but apropos to *JimA1*'s latest blog on advice, I choose to ignore it and I have been duly rewarded with a new learning point, Aka disaster.
> 
> ...


Sorry to hear of the setback Mike, but every day you learn something is a good day.

I don't understand why these plugs are turned freehand. Maybe I'm missing something but if the holes are all cut with the same tool (which you made), why then aren't the plugs all cut with a matching profile knife (that you make to match the taper)???

The fit should be as much a given as with cope and stick shaper cutters. They would fit so well that yo may need to design a puller.
Anyway I'm sure Yuri's way works and I know that you will prevail. Keep putting one foot in front of the other, there are lots of us out here pulling for you.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Learned Something New Today?*
> 
> *Today was a total success!* I proved that my wooden plugs just weren't good enough! Now to be fair I have gotten some good advice on how to make my plugs from *Yuri*, but apropos to *JimA1*'s latest blog on advice, I choose to ignore it and I have been duly rewarded with a new learning point, Aka disaster.
> 
> ...


Thanks* Philip*. I'm not really trying to teach anyone with the blog. Quite a few others can turn these balls. I even have a book on the subject showing exactly how to do it, so it's not like I'm doing anything original or spectacular. I just thought some of the other members would like to enjoy experiencing one average person's struggle in learning how to do it and see if they can relate to my thinking process (or lack thereof).

*Paul* Even though the plugs are cut with a special taper cutter tool you still don't get 100% consistent sizes like you would with a drill bit, especially after the different inner layers are turned with the individual cutters. The actual contact points with the plug are only about 2mm or less at each of the four levels.

*I have to correct what I said above about Yuri's advice.* I reread it and what he really said was that he dipped the plugs in melted candle wax just before insertion to fill any gaps between the wooden plug and the hole to get a solid fit and support. I got a little confused with his text. So I will still be using the wooden plugs, but with the addition of wax.

*I also see that Yuri has made his plugs in steps*, which I now see can be much more accurate than the tapered plugs I made because the hole diameter can be measured at each of the five total levels and then turned to the precise diameter for each point. I'm so dumb that I just now understood it. I do believe this was the last piece I needed to complete the puzzle. Somehow the obvious always escapes me. Maybe I should talk less and think more.

*For easy removal The plugs will have a small hole drilled in their center* as they are installed while still on the lathe and in the ball chuck so that a screw can be inserted to act as a handle after all the holes are done.


----------



## SuburbanDon (Mar 15, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Learned Something New Today?*
> 
> *Today was a total success!* I proved that my wooden plugs just weren't good enough! Now to be fair I have gotten some good advice on how to make my plugs from *Yuri*, but apropos to *JimA1*'s latest blog on advice, I choose to ignore it and I have been duly rewarded with a new learning point, Aka disaster.
> 
> ...


You must have done everything else there is to do in wood working if you have started this. Bravo !


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Learned Something New Today?*
> 
> *Today was a total success!* I proved that my wooden plugs just weren't good enough! Now to be fair I have gotten some good advice on how to make my plugs from *Yuri*, but apropos to *JimA1*'s latest blog on advice, I choose to ignore it and I have been duly rewarded with a new learning point, Aka disaster.
> 
> ...


Hi *Don* You have way too high thoughts about me. I am a typical jack of all trades, master of none type of guy.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Learned Something New Today?*
> 
> *Today was a total success!* I proved that my wooden plugs just weren't good enough! Now to be fair I have gotten some good advice on how to make my plugs from *Yuri*, but apropos to *JimA1*'s latest blog on advice, I choose to ignore it and I have been duly rewarded with a new learning point, Aka disaster.
> 
> ...


Mike today I thought I would do something fairly simple or so I thought. I spent about an hour tearing down an old aluminum window to get the glass out of it. My goal is to cut the glass pains for picture frames. I have watched men at the hardware store do this. So I place the pain on the bench, mark a line, place a straight edge and drag my glass cutter down the glass. I tried 10 times to get it to break straight. I cant do it. My bench is not flat, I am not holding my mouth right or Mars and Venus are not alined correctly. A glazier I am not. Then my wife tells me that her father would do it like a piece of sheet-rock. Well may bee I need to go get a lesson. I will try again.
Well with all that said I am not going to quit and I am not bleeding.
Lets try again. Thats how we learn. 
Thanks for what you do Mike it keeps me trying.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Learned Something New Today?*
> 
> *Today was a total success!* I proved that my wooden plugs just weren't good enough! Now to be fair I have gotten some good advice on how to make my plugs from *Yuri*, but apropos to *JimA1*'s latest blog on advice, I choose to ignore it and I have been duly rewarded with a new learning point, Aka disaster.
> 
> ...


I don't know anything about glass cutting Dave, but the last time I got some cut, the guy placed the glass on a thin blanket. Kind of like the ones the moving and storage folks use only a lot flatter. He put a little paraffin on the glass before he cut it. After he made the cut he got the waste edge just off the table edge and inserted into the appropriate of tooth on the cutter and then he kind of gently moved the tool handle up an down all along the length of the cut until it parted cleanly. I doubt I could do it myself, but maybe you will find something useful in my description. But if in any doubt just ignore what I said. As they say advice is cheap. Thanks you for the praise. I am trying to set a good example of perseverance for others so they can experience the satisfaction of succeeding where they only expected failure.


----------



## whydee (Jan 18, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Learned Something New Today?*
> 
> *Today was a total success!* I proved that my wooden plugs just weren't good enough! Now to be fair I have gotten some good advice on how to make my plugs from *Yuri*, but apropos to *JimA1*'s latest blog on advice, I choose to ignore it and I have been duly rewarded with a new learning point, Aka disaster.
> 
> ...


Mike, I would do two things now with this ball. I would pour some water paint inside the ball before doing any experiment. Then when you feel that nothing else you won't to try cut the ball in to 2-4 peaces and examine how the turning took place. Different colors from the water paint may show you some problems.

About the plugs, thank you for putting the right words on how I did them. I'm still struggling with my English when I try to explain something. Anyway, to remove plugs I use heat gun just to worm the plug a bit and as you can see on the second picture I have predrilled holes for the screw to remove them.



















*I'm very happy you are not giving up.* And if in any way I can help you, I would…

Warmest ever,
Yuri


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Learned Something New Today?*
> 
> *Today was a total success!* I proved that my wooden plugs just weren't good enough! Now to be fair I have gotten some good advice on how to make my plugs from *Yuri*, but apropos to *JimA1*'s latest blog on advice, I choose to ignore it and I have been duly rewarded with a new learning point, Aka disaster.
> 
> ...


Thanks Mike that does help. We will try again.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Learned Something New Today?*
> 
> *Today was a total success!* I proved that my wooden plugs just weren't good enough! Now to be fair I have gotten some good advice on how to make my plugs from *Yuri*, but apropos to *JimA1*'s latest blog on advice, I choose to ignore it and I have been duly rewarded with a new learning point, Aka disaster.
> 
> ...


*Dave* I will keep my fingers crossed for you. I really want to see some of those windows. I don't know why, but I have always found window making interesting, but I have never taken the time to learn about it, so I hope you blog or video the full process.

*Yuri* I'm glad I finally got your method right. If I were a little quicker in the head, I would have understood that from your photos. Your English isn't that bad, but sometimes a single wrong word can confuse. I've been here for about 35 years and I still have the same problem with Norwegian.

I am very happy to get this last information from you. The tapered plugs didn't work well at all, and I can understand why when I think about it. Only a very small part of a taper could be tight against the 90 degree edge of the internal hole at each level. Your stepped plug should give complete or near complete contact for the whole thickness of each layer because the plug also has a 90degree angle around the circumference. I'm pretty confident that this new knowledge will give me success on the next ball. I can't think of any other issues that can pop up.

I appreciate your help a lot Yuri. This is what LJ is all about and at it's best. Thank you!


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Learned Something New Today?*
> 
> *Today was a total success!* I proved that my wooden plugs just weren't good enough! Now to be fair I have gotten some good advice on how to make my plugs from *Yuri*, but apropos to *JimA1*'s latest blog on advice, I choose to ignore it and I have been duly rewarded with a new learning point, Aka disaster.
> 
> ...


Done.


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

stefang said:


> *Learned Something New Today?*
> 
> *Today was a total success!* I proved that my wooden plugs just weren't good enough! Now to be fair I have gotten some good advice on how to make my plugs from *Yuri*, but apropos to *JimA1*'s latest blog on advice, I choose to ignore it and I have been duly rewarded with a new learning point, Aka disaster.
> 
> ...


Hi Mike, guess I missed the sawdust/wax suggestion.

It is a long story, but no turings yet.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Learned Something New Today?*
> 
> *Today was a total success!* I proved that my wooden plugs just weren't good enough! Now to be fair I have gotten some good advice on how to make my plugs from *Yuri*, but apropos to *JimA1*'s latest blog on advice, I choose to ignore it and I have been duly rewarded with a new learning point, Aka disaster.
> 
> ...


So now *Dave* you have added a new skill to your repertoire, so I assume we will be seeing some windows soon.

Sorry Bob, I hope your health is ok. The sawdust/wax bit was a wrong interpretation from my side, so you didn't miss anything.


----------



## littlecope (Oct 23, 2008)

stefang said:


> *Learned Something New Today?*
> 
> *Today was a total success!* I proved that my wooden plugs just weren't good enough! Now to be fair I have gotten some good advice on how to make my plugs from *Yuri*, but apropos to *JimA1*'s latest blog on advice, I choose to ignore it and I have been duly rewarded with a new learning point, Aka disaster.
> 
> ...


Sorry this took such a tragic turn Mike,
but I'm glad you're going to get back on that horse and ride again!
That's the Spirit.
As for the one that got away, I usually keep those sorts of things…
They are an object lesson in teaching humility.
Looking forward to your continued adventures my Friend, and I'm convinced you'll do this thing!
Don't let it throw You!!


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Learned Something New Today?*
> 
> *Today was a total success!* I proved that my wooden plugs just weren't good enough! Now to be fair I have gotten some good advice on how to make my plugs from *Yuri*, but apropos to *JimA1*'s latest blog on advice, I choose to ignore it and I have been duly rewarded with a new learning point, Aka disaster.
> 
> ...


No problem *Mike*, and thanks for your good wishes. I am just solving the problems as they arrive with some good help from my LJ buddies. I am cautiously optimistic that my next ball will go all the way. I am considering this as my apprenticeship for this kind of work.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

*Having a Ball (or at least making one)*

*You might guess that I wouldn't have a new ball ready so fast* after the last fiasco. Well, I did get out to the shop long enough to turn a new one today.

*I used a new method to turn this ball*, and I think it is the best one I've done so far. Nothing original about the way I did it, but new for me. It could be that many of you out there aren't interested in turning Chinese balls, but I would think most turners would like to try their hand at doing a ball sometime, so I thought I would share this method with you. It's mostly photos and not too much babble, so I hope you will have a look.









The workpiece









Mounting the workpiece between centers









Turned down to the finished diameter and marked with the ball's diameter and a centerline.









A spigot is turned to fit into my 4 jaw chuck.









Mounted in my 4 jaw chuck and with the tailstock brought up and locked in to ensure stability and accuracy. I have also turned it down to make the 25mm axles (left thick for stability).









Here you can see the template and that it fits the circumference of the workpiece.









I have partially turned the ends at 45 degree angle and you can see what is left to turn by the template. I used a wide round nosed scraper up to this point. It doesn't really scrape, it cuts. You can get A nice smooth cut without have to worrry too much about cutting too much off as you might with a gouge.









I have been using a gouge since the last photo because I can cut closer to the axles. You have to use good technique on these cuts to get them smooth and consistence since you are working more or less on vertical surfaces. A check with the template indicates that we are getting closer.









continuing with the gouge and also using the scraper again on surfaces closer to the centerline. Not far to go now.









Almost there! Note that the axles are turned down. Be careful with the axle on the headstock side because you will need it to be strong enough to eventually turn the ball without the tailstock in place.









Ok, this is pretty close. I think it will be easiest, safest and quickest to start sanding from this point.









The template shows that it is perfect. Now I just have to get those axles turned off.









The tailstock end is parted off and you can see the nub.









The toolrest is brought up and the nub turned off.









A little sanding and a check with the template, Bingo! Take your time with this. It's not overly easy to get that nub off and even with the rounded surface of the ball.









The ball parted off from the chuck. Now the last remaining axle nub has to be turned off.









The ball is mounted in my ball chuck and the last nub turned off and sanded smooth. If you don't have a ball chuck, you can just turn a cup with the same radius as the ball, place the ball in the cup and bring your tailstock up and lock the ball in place, turn off as much of the nub as possible, sand and then remove the ball from the lathe, cut the remaining tiny nub off with a chisel and then sand by hand.









And here it is, the finished ball.

*Some helpful tips*
1. Take extra care to get your diameter right when you rough down the workpiece so you know exactly what it is.
2. Very important to keep your tool cutting edges as close as possibel to the horizontal center-point of the 
workpiece
3. Make sure that the length of the workpiece between your marks is exactly the same as the diameter and that the
centerline is truly in the center.
4. When you reduce the diameter of your axles make sure you don't cut too close and make the end of the ball flat. 
It is easier to do than you might think.

5. After the initial roughing of the ball you have to stay focused as it is easy to cut to much off, especially with the
gouge. Keep an eye on the ball profile as you turn and take light cuts and check often with the template. Some
turners use a water glass or other round container to check the ball's roundness with, but that doesn't tell you if
are at the right diameter, so I prefer the template.

Thanks for reading and I hope you find something interesting here. Below are links to this series.

http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/27858 #1
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/27938 #2
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28079 #3
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28240 #4
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28512 #5
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28536 #6
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28866 #7
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28905 #8


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Having a Ball (or at least making one)*
> 
> *You might guess that I wouldn't have a new ball ready so fast* after the last fiasco. Well, I did get out to the shop long enough to turn a new one today.
> 
> ...


i never knew how any of this was done

great tutorial mike

*you are on the ball today !*


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Having a Ball (or at least making one)*
> 
> *You might guess that I wouldn't have a new ball ready so fast* after the last fiasco. Well, I did get out to the shop long enough to turn a new one today.
> 
> ...


Thanks Mike. To we non-turners this is very good info. It will be filed.

Thanks again.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Having a Ball (or at least making one)*
> 
> *You might guess that I wouldn't have a new ball ready so fast* after the last fiasco. Well, I did get out to the shop long enough to turn a new one today.
> 
> ...


Thanks *David* and *Paul* I had to do this work anyway and I thought it would be fun to share it. There are lots of Youtube videos showing ball turning, but I haven't seen any that I felt were very useful or instructive for the average guy with the average lathe.

The problem here is that I can't show any tool use as I only have two hands, but experienced turners will find that part a no-brainer. I'm glad to get away from the ball cutting jig. I didn't really like it much. It was slower and less accurate than this method. On the negative side, this is my last piece of Maple, so I hope I can take this one all the way!


----------



## 76winger (Nov 12, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Having a Ball (or at least making one)*
> 
> *You might guess that I wouldn't have a new ball ready so fast* after the last fiasco. Well, I did get out to the shop long enough to turn a new one today.
> 
> ...


Great article and thanks for sharing with everyone.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Having a Ball (or at least making one)*
> 
> *You might guess that I wouldn't have a new ball ready so fast* after the last fiasco. Well, I did get out to the shop long enough to turn a new one today.
> 
> ...


Thanks Dave.


----------



## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Having a Ball (or at least making one)*
> 
> *You might guess that I wouldn't have a new ball ready so fast* after the last fiasco. Well, I did get out to the shop long enough to turn a new one today.
> 
> ...


when you started this project i had no idea it was going to be this small, its very intimidating to me anyway, but i have all the confidence in you that you will pull this off..no doubt what so ever…


----------



## artfoundry (Sep 29, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Having a Ball (or at least making one)*
> 
> *You might guess that I wouldn't have a new ball ready so fast* after the last fiasco. Well, I did get out to the shop long enough to turn a new one today.
> 
> ...


Nice shoots on how you did this.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Having a Ball (or at least making one)*
> 
> *You might guess that I wouldn't have a new ball ready so fast* after the last fiasco. Well, I did get out to the shop long enough to turn a new one today.
> 
> ...


Hi *Grizz*, yeah, close to 2-1/2" diameter. Thanks for your confidence. I too think I will succeed, especially since I plan to continue until I do. I feel that everything is coming together with this project now.

Thanks *John*.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Having a Ball (or at least making one)*
> 
> *You might guess that I wouldn't have a new ball ready so fast* after the last fiasco. Well, I did get out to the shop long enough to turn a new one today.
> 
> ...


And we have started our journey again. Nice roundositty (Roy Underhill's term for round things) Mike. I wish you well on your journey. Try, try again. Thats how we succeed.
And Mike I have a video on the sash. I just can't get YouTube to act right. I will post as soon as I can. My sash journey was full of lessons. Four of them, each corner.
Keep us tuned in.


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

stefang said:


> *Having a Ball (or at least making one)*
> 
> *You might guess that I wouldn't have a new ball ready so fast* after the last fiasco. Well, I did get out to the shop long enough to turn a new one today.
> 
> ...


Seems like there is more waste than ball!! Looks like a simple way to do it, but then I've never turned anything yet.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Having a Ball (or at least making one)*
> 
> *You might guess that I wouldn't have a new ball ready so fast* after the last fiasco. Well, I did get out to the shop long enough to turn a new one today.
> 
> ...


I'm looking forward to that video *Dave*

Ya *Bob* there is extra, especially on the headstock end. you need the extra long axle on that side to get in there with the turning tools, otherwise the chuck jaws gets in the way. After the ball is drilled and hollowed out I imagine only about 20-30% remains and less if you count the waste from around the axles. Most turnings like bowls, hollow forms, etc. typically lose up to about 80% of the wood.


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

stefang said:


> *Having a Ball (or at least making one)*
> 
> *You might guess that I wouldn't have a new ball ready so fast* after the last fiasco. Well, I did get out to the shop long enough to turn a new one today.
> 
> ...


Maybe turnings should be all fruit wood or alder so the waste would be good for smoking fish ;-))


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Having a Ball (or at least making one)*
> 
> *You might guess that I wouldn't have a new ball ready so fast* after the last fiasco. Well, I did get out to the shop long enough to turn a new one today.
> 
> ...


Not a bad idea Bob.


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

stefang said:


> *Having a Ball (or at least making one)*
> 
> *You might guess that I wouldn't have a new ball ready so fast* after the last fiasco. Well, I did get out to the shop long enough to turn a new one today.
> 
> ...


My claim to fame is the best smoked salmon in the world!


----------



## lanwater (May 14, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Having a Ball (or at least making one)*
> 
> *You might guess that I wouldn't have a new ball ready so fast* after the last fiasco. Well, I did get out to the shop long enough to turn a new one today.
> 
> ...


Thanks Mike.

Now I know how they are made; I was always wondering.


----------



## kenn (Mar 19, 2008)

stefang said:


> *Having a Ball (or at least making one)*
> 
> *You might guess that I wouldn't have a new ball ready so fast* after the last fiasco. Well, I did get out to the shop long enough to turn a new one today.
> 
> ...


I Love this series! Keep at it.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Having a Ball (or at least making one)*
> 
> *You might guess that I wouldn't have a new ball ready so fast* after the last fiasco. Well, I did get out to the shop long enough to turn a new one today.
> 
> ...


*Bob* have you also tried smoking Salmon with Juniper wood, the kind that gets the berries? The berries are also good as a flavor ingredient in cooking, especially with venison, wild bird, etc.

*Ian* This is only one method, there are lots of different ways to turn balls, some a little more exotic than others. For example, I have seen these turned on the lathe using a hole cutter saw mounted and running on a hand drill. A very quick and accurate method providing a saw diameter is available in the size you need.

Thanks *Kenn* It's do or die for this project. I will be working on it today, and if I do anything new or interesting, I will post it. I might post the work involved with the temporary plugs as this is a critical problem area which I have yet to overcome. It would be nice to post a success on that part.


----------



## fernandoindia (May 5, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Having a Ball (or at least making one)*
> 
> *You might guess that I wouldn't have a new ball ready so fast* after the last fiasco. Well, I did get out to the shop long enough to turn a new one today.
> 
> ...


Hi Stefang. Thank you for this very illustrative blog.

The ball chuck is a finding for me. I am also filing this

Take care


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Having a Ball (or at least making one)*
> 
> *You might guess that I wouldn't have a new ball ready so fast* after the last fiasco. Well, I did get out to the shop long enough to turn a new one today.
> 
> ...


Thanks Fernando. One of the blogs in the series shows how to make this ball chuck. So far it has work perfectly for me, so I am happy now. This is the 3rd one I've made. The other two were not so good.


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

stefang said:


> *Having a Ball (or at least making one)*
> 
> *You might guess that I wouldn't have a new ball ready so fast* after the last fiasco. Well, I did get out to the shop long enough to turn a new one today.
> 
> ...


Never have tried Juniper. I would imagine the flavor is a bit strong, eh????


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Having a Ball (or at least making one)*
> 
> *You might guess that I wouldn't have a new ball ready so fast* after the last fiasco. Well, I did get out to the shop long enough to turn a new one today.
> 
> ...


Not really Bob. It's the preferred way of smoking salmon here in Norway. I hope you try it. I eat a lot of it. I usually have some pieces that are thin sliced in the fridge for lunches. I'm pretty sure you will like it. This salmon is only smoked and not cooked at all.


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Having a Ball (or at least making one)*
> 
> *You might guess that I wouldn't have a new ball ready so fast* after the last fiasco. Well, I did get out to the shop long enough to turn a new one today.
> 
> ...


i got juniper here
after the pinon died
that's the only trees left

trivia:
the british drink gin
because it is made from juniper berries
which grow everywhere in the world
especially where they had empire

but to much gin
makes you argumentative
as my first wife and i found out


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Having a Ball (or at least making one)*
> 
> *You might guess that I wouldn't have a new ball ready so fast* after the last fiasco. Well, I did get out to the shop long enough to turn a new one today.
> 
> ...


Yes David, everything in moderation as they say. We have a strange drinking culture here in Norway. Firstly, the stronger stuff like wine and whisky is sold only from the state run Wine Monopoly. This encourages a thriving smuggling industry and sometimes people are poisoned by the product. Others are discouraged from buying legally because the price is insanely high. Alcoholic beverages are rarely served at family parties and get togethers because most guests are usually driving and wouldn't dare risk losing their drivers license and spend some time in jail, no to mention the accompanying huge fine. Familyl parties might be different in larger cities with good mass transit.

I could go on and on with the various idiosyncrasies of Norway's drinking habits, but it's probably a good thing when families don't drink much. That said, I do like the juniper berry flavor in gin, but I don't drink much of it.


----------



## greyspider (May 25, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Having a Ball (or at least making one)*
> 
> *You might guess that I wouldn't have a new ball ready so fast* after the last fiasco. Well, I did get out to the shop long enough to turn a new one today.
> 
> ...


Thank you for posting this! You do fantastic work. I"m just learning on the lathe, but I want to make one of these. Very cool.

Mike


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Having a Ball (or at least making one)*
> 
> *You might guess that I wouldn't have a new ball ready so fast* after the last fiasco. Well, I did get out to the shop long enough to turn a new one today.
> 
> ...


Thanks for your Mike. I still have one problem area, and I plan to write a blog about it in the next couple of days. I'm not trying to teach this skill, I am just blogging the journey and the problems I encounter along the way so others who buy the book and try it will have some benefit from my own experience. It is also an introduction to this type of work for turners who haven't been aware of it before.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

*Started the new ball today with some changes*

Here is what I'm trying to make.










I drilled the small holes in the ball today and turned the first large one.

*The small holes are different this time*
I decided to not do the little collar around the holes until after I'm finished with all the other turning. I don't know how well this will work out, but it's worth a try. Previously the collars got messed up by the tool holders while turning the inner layers of the large hole, doing a lot of damage. This new procedure is to prevent that from happening. Here's a photo of it. 









*What would we do without tape*
Before turning the large hole, I decided to put some masking tape over the the small holes, again to prevent damage. I figure this would also protect in between the holes and prevent some scraping/compression problems I had in that area before. Here it is all taped up.This worked very well and I experienced no damage at all this time.










*I finally made a plug that fit properly*
I was going to use *Yuri's* method with a stepped plug and wax seal. After thinking it over a bit, the thought occurred to me that Yuri is probably using different sized drills to make his large holes with. That means the hole walls are straight (90degrees), while my holes are made with a tapered cutter the the hole edges are also tapered. That makes a tapered plug a better fit.

If you recall I was having a lot of problems making a plug that would actually fit the hole. After checking some old plugs closely, I found that for starters the plugs were too short. In addtition to that, I used the bottom diameter suggested in the book, but I found that the actual hole diameters were a bit larger. So now I will make each plug from actual hole measurements (duh) and use the plug turning procedure I showed before. Here it is again in case you didn't see it.



















*Getting the plug in is easy, but getting it out again requires rocket surgery*
As you can see from the photo I did get a good fit, and all the way to the bottom this time. The plug has good contact with every layer now and hopefully will hold everything in place while I turn the other Holes. After plugging the hole, a small hole is drilled in the center of the plug to accept a small screw which acts as a handle for removal purposes. I just put it in for the pic, but I won't be using it until completely finished with the ball.










*Chinese ball turning requires a wide flat tool rest*
The toolrest has to be flat and wide to support the special turning tools at exactly the right height (cutter tip perfectly centered) and therefore requires a special toolrest.

I didn't want to make a whole new toolrest so I adapted the one I have. The pictures below tell the story pretty well. I did have to drill a couple of mounting holes in my stock toolrest. The rest is just a piece of wood with a thin slice from a counter top. I had to cut a bevel on the wood mount to get the counter top piece level. The counter top bit is held on with carpet tape for easy change out. I do plan to make a new one soon that is wider, but this one works well as long as I remember not to push down on the handle of the turning tool while cutting.



















That's all the minutia I have for today. I hope I get a chance to continue tomorrow, so if I do I will let you know how it's going. Thanks for reading. Here are the links to the series.

http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/27858 #1
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/27938 #2
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28079 #3
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28240 #4
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28512 #5
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28536 #6
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28866 #7
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28905 #8
http://lumberjocks.com/stefang/blog/28944 #9


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Started the new ball today with some changes*
> 
> Here is what I'm trying to make.
> 
> ...


back in the saddle again

*paul* had mentioned something before
in an earlier post
about the holes and plugs
that i keep thinking about

since you made the cutters for the various levels of hollowing out
why can't you make a set for drilling the stepped or tapered holes
that chucks into the tail stock
with a matching one for the plugs
with a stop on the tail stock rail
to keep them all the same in depth 
and centered precisely

not being a turner
i don't know if this would work or not
but in my razor dull (after many shaves) brain
it seems like it might help 
to keep all the holes consistent


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Started the new ball today with some changes*
> 
> Here is what I'm trying to make.
> 
> ...


Hi David. Your suggestion is good and I'm sure you and Paul probably are right, but to be honest my metal working experience is almost non-existent, and what you are proposing would probably be beyond my modest skills.Besides, I am not fond of sawing metal. The tapered holes are actually more accurate than the impression I might have given. This latest plug worked great. It's stuck in there like it's glued, but it's not, and I didn't even use tape on it. So I will stick with this method until it proves wrong (That may take a day or two).

Thank you for trying to help me out. I may have to resort to that idea at a later date!


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Started the new ball today with some changes*
> 
> Here is what I'm trying to make.
> 
> ...


A different approach and new jigs. I think you are on solid ground Mike. Keep us posted.
Have you seen my chisels? I cant find them


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Started the new ball today with some changes*
> 
> Here is what I'm trying to make.
> 
> ...


Yes Dave, solid ground. The best place to be as the ship sinks. You are paranoid! I'm still here in Norway and you are already hiding your chisels (I don't blame you).


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## SuburbanDon (Mar 15, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Started the new ball today with some changes*
> 
> Here is what I'm trying to make.
> 
> ...


Crazy. That is all I can say.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Started the new ball today with some changes*
> 
> Here is what I'm trying to make.
> 
> ...


You are wonderful Mike!
Love your 'never give up' spirit.
(Thank you for that wonderful mail, I'm still smiling and thinking).
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Started the new ball today with some changes*
> 
> Here is what I'm trying to make.
> 
> ...


Thanks *Mads*, please let my wife know. I wish I could lay claim to being a 'never say die' type of guy, but I am actually enjoying this experience even with all the problems and mishaps along the way, or maybe even because of them. I will be in the shop today finishing up the other holes. If all goes well (it rarely does for me) I will have a finished ball at the end of the day. So my hopes are high, but my expectations are low. How you look at life is all about expectations.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Started the new ball today with some changes*
> 
> Here is what I'm trying to make.
> 
> ...


"git-er-done" Mike, "git-er-done"


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Started the new ball today with some changes*
> 
> Here is what I'm trying to make.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the encouragement Roger. I did get it done today, but not in quite the way you mean. I had turned 6 holes finished and plugged and WHAM!!! The ball went out of balance on the 7th hole and got destroyed. This was my own fault. This project has really changed me. I'm not even upset about it. Of course I'm not elated either.

The inner rim of the collar on my ball chuck has some small pieces of sandpaper double taped around the circumference to keep the ball from slipping out of balance. When the collar is tightened around the ball this sandpaper tends to creep outwards. I didn't notice that several of them had slipped all the way out from the previous hole when I tightened the collar. That's all it took.

This doesn't discourage me. I have now solved the plug problem and that part went great, in fact everything went great and I would have succeeded this time if I had just paid closer attention. It was fun to feel in control for once, at least until I wasn't in control! Now I need to get some new wood, I hope tomorrow.down before I finish this.

This kind of thing has happened to me before. I get so caught up with the thought of reaching the finish line that I lose focus and something goes wrong. I wonder if others do that?


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Started the new ball today with some changes*
> 
> Here is what I'm trying to make.
> 
> ...


Yep all the time Mike. The one that gets me the most is when the construction is over and the finishing starts. They say at that time you are only 50% complete on the project. You can rush good finish.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Started the new ball today with some changes*
> 
> Here is what I'm trying to make.
> 
> ...


So true Dave. I wish I was better at finishes, but I just don't like working with them, and that is probably sure sign that I don't know much about the subject.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

stefang said:


> *Started the new ball today with some changes*
> 
> Here is what I'm trying to make.
> 
> ...


You got this Mike. Nothing like a little failure to hone the skills. Failure after all is nothing more than a necessary step to success…... for the intrepid anyway.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Started the new ball today with some changes*
> 
> Here is what I'm trying to make.
> 
> ...


Not too sure about 'intrepid' Paul, but I am hanging in there. Yesterday was unfortunate because all went well up to the 7th hole. Sounds almost like golf, and at least as frustrating. One big thing that I was very pleased with was the plugs. I'm relieved about that problem being solved. I found that I can accurately measure the diameter of the holes at the various levels using the shaft of different sized drill bits. Quick and easy.

I cut the destroyed ball in half on the band saw just to see how it looked inside. Everything was good. Today I went to my local woodworking store and got some maple to make more balls with. I now feel that the next ball will be successful since I can't think of any more 'learning points' needed.

I would have been further along if I hadn't had the problems with the first two unsuccessful ball chucks. I feel, with this project, that I am operating in the world of quantum physics. Kind of like a bull in a china shop.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Started the new ball today with some changes*
> 
> Here is what I'm trying to make.
> 
> ...







Laughed when I saw this one.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Started the new ball today with some changes*
> 
> Here is what I'm trying to make.
> 
> ...


Hi Mads. It looks great and only costs $1,000,000 to get the job done!

BTW I haven't given up on my Chinese ball project. I have to make new cutting tools. The book suggested using cheap chisels. I tried that, but it was too hard for me to work. I could of course anneal the steel, work it and re-harden it, but I need to get a bigger blow torch for that. I could just buy the tools ready made, but I don't like that option.

I hope you are still having fun with your Japanese woodworking.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Started the new ball today with some changes*
> 
> Here is what I'm trying to make.
> 
> ...


Hi Mike,
Plenty of fun here, but no time for woodworking these days. But I still have quite a lot of blogs that are waiting to be posted so it's fine. 
To buy the tools would be sad I agree, I thik it is wonderful that you not only set out to make that ball, but also the tools, it's so cool.
Have a wonderful summer,
Mads


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

stefang said:


> *Started the new ball today with some changes*
> 
> Here is what I'm trying to make.
> 
> ...


Thanks Mads and the same to you.


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