# 1/2" vs. 3/4" plywood for kitchen cabinets



## Elvin

Good morning
For years I have been using 3/4" plywood, tongue and groove, for kitchen cabinets. Recently I saw a Robert Settich video where he uses 1/2" ply for his cabinets. 
My question is, has anyone had problems with the 1/2" or do you recommend staying with the 3/4" .
My current project is for my daughter's small town home kitchen.
Any information is appreciated.
El


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## NiteWalker

Stick with 3/4".
It will hold up longer and the difference between 3/4" and 1/2" is negligible.


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## shawnmasterson

It all depends on the application. If ti is a huge base I would use 3/4" for the floor. other than that 1/2" is plenty strong. When building kitchen cabinets I use 1/2" prefinished maple plywood for the boxes. On the ends of the cabinets that show I just use a skin that matches the face frame.


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## wapakfred

I'll second the stick with 3/4" advice. I do think 1/2" is probably strong enough (after all, production cabinets seem to be made with 1/2" particleboard), but with 3/4" you never have to wonder. Besides, the cost difference is so small it doesn't save any money.


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## Loren

I don't see a problem with 1/2" if you understand that in
some ways it will be less forgiving. There's less extra
material to absorb a slightly misplaced nail or a screw not
driven just so. The success of a cabinet really depends 
on how well the geometry of the box is supported. 3/4" 
material is stiff enough to be sort of self-supporting and
cabinets can be put together treating the material as
a slab, while with 1/2" material you'll need to consider
more carefully how the glue, joinery and assembly sequence 
choices ensure you're getting the result you want.


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## ScottC

I use 3/4 for base cabinets and 1/2 for wall cabinets. Saves a little weight and cost but that's about it. 1/2 and 3/4 scraps and cut-offs are both great for other items such as shelves, toekick, shop furniture, jigs, etc.


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## woodchuckerNJ

No problem using 1/2" you have to realize it's vertical, and it's strong that way.

if it were horizontal, it would be a problem.


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## NiteWalker

Vertical with a heavy load on top will still bow.


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## NiteWalker

Vertical with a heavy load on top will still bow.


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## CharlieM1958

If you look at all the top brands of factory-made cabinetry, you will find that even the very top-of-the-line offerings are predominantly constructed with 1/2" plywood sides. I think that is pretty good evidence that 1/2" will do the job.


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## Elvin

Thank all of you for your input. It really helps me. I think I will stay with the 3/4 ply. It is something I am familiar with.
I appreciate you taking the time to answer and share your knowledge.
El


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## Vesselhead

Can I add a twist?
What if you are building a 5' wide, 24" deep base cabinet where the middle is free standing drawer fridge. There is an upper cabinet directly on top that is 11" deep. 1/2" is better for weight. But now you are dealing with vibration.


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## Vesselhead

Forgot to say this is for a teardrop.


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## TheFridge

The couple shops I know use 5/8 and 3/4 on show sides. Or 1/2 and 3/4 on sides.


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## Loren

Cabinets get their structural integrity from 
the back and, when there is one, from a 
face frame. Frameless cabinets lack the
face frame obviously, and many are made
in 3/4" material but some are 5/8".

If you're using a face frame I wouldn't be 
concerned about 1/2" ply for the box sides.
1/4" is fine for the back. I think I've seen
1/4" sides in RVs, but there has to be some
reinforcement sticks in there that may make
movable shelves more hassle than it's worth.


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## AlaskaGuy

AS Charles M states there are plenty of commercial cabinets made with 1/2. I like 3/4 throughout even the back. I don't think I ever seen nor heard of 1/2 in framless cabinets. When I drive screws into the edge of plywood or melamine I like the extra thickness of 3/4 material. More weigh, I don't care, more expense I don't care. My goal was never to build the cheapest cabinet I could.


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## darthford

I ordered 3/4 inch for my new construction house after looking at dozens of new construction homes with thinner construction grade cabinets, best decision I ever made. The builder was all offended at first. He's a custom home builder not a track home guy. But he routinely used these construction grade cabinets and felt these were perfectly fine. The two construction grade cabinets, lowest had particle board boxes, 2nd lowest had 1/2 ply, drawers were a complete joke. I upgraded to 3/4 inch Hickory ply with solid maple dovetail drawers those are about 5/8 thick and the cost difference was for the entire house kitchen and 3 baths was less than $2k I think it was like $1,400 or so.

AFTER the house was finished the builder was all impressed and took pictures of my house and used my specs on his next spec house up the street lol.


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## Luthierman

In the Purdue shop we use 3/4 for the sides and bottom, and 1/2 for the back. On occasion I have used 3/4 for everything. The price difference between the two is pretty negligible.


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## PPK

3/4". In my neck of the woods, it's actually cheaper to get 3/4 than 1/2" of the same grade. Plus, as others have mentioned, 3/4" is more forgiving.

Got a 50/50 split of opinions yet?? 
Lol


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## Kenny13

I'd like to put another twist on this topic. How about hanging cabinets via French cleat? These will be about 35" wide and 28" high, 20" deep.


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## JackDuren

> I'd like to put another twist on this topic. How about hanging cabinets via French cleat? These will be about 35" wide and 28" high, 20" deep.
> 
> - Kenny13


Why?


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## AlaskaGuy

> I'd like to put another twist on this topic. How about hanging cabinets via French cleat? These will be about 35" wide and 28" high, 20" deep.
> 
> - Kenny13


No reason you can't. There are even a number of commercially made cabinet hanging system on the marked the do the same thing. As I understand it there are places in Europe it's common to use such systems. Never hung cabinets that way but I can see where it might make it easier to hang cabinets all by you lonesome.

Here one I pulled up for you:






AND YES, I KNOW THE IS AN OLDER THREAD


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## Lazyman

Not sure that I have ever seen a hanging cabinet 20" deep. Just wondering what sort of extra structure is needed to support a heavy load that far out from the wall.


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## Phil32

> Not sure that I have ever seen a hanging cabinet 20" deep. Just wondering what sort of extra structure is needed to support a heavy load that far out from the wall.
> 
> - Lazyman


Yes, what happens when you load the cabinet with several stacks of earthenware plates? . . and soup bowls? . . and serving platters, cups & saucers? Think beyond the empty box on the wall.


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## LeeRoyMan

> Not sure that I have ever seen a hanging cabinet 20" deep. Just wondering what sort of extra structure is needed to support a heavy load that far out from the wall.
> 
> - Lazyman
> 
> Yes, what happens when you load the cabinet with several stacks of earthenware plates? . . and soup bowls? . . and serving platters, cups & saucers? Think beyond the empty box on the wall.
> 
> - Phil32


It's no problem as long as your french cleats are attached well into studs and onto the back of the cabinet. I've done several.














































Here is an upper with glass doors and shelves.


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## Kenny13

LeeRoyMan - does it matter what size boards you use for the cleats? Thicker or wider?


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## BlueRidgeDog

Face frame box with 1/2" exceeds the load needs by far, especially when ganged with others. Euro style, frameless ones need the extra width. I typically also use 1/2 for shop cabinets and have puts massive amounts of weight on them.

Now, this assumes you glue them up and either use screws as temporary clamps or use clamps. If you are a pocket screw type cabinet maker, then stay with 3/4.


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## LeeRoyMan

> LeeRoyMan - does it matter what size boards you use for the cleats? Thicker or wider?
> 
> - Kenny13


I usually use 3/4" poplar, 2 1/2" - 3" wide. Depends on what wood I have in stock.


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## Kenny13

Thanks all for your help. I'm actually constructing 3 separate cabinets when hung size by side will span 103 inches wide. One solid top of 103 inches.


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## rwe2156

There isn't any right answer other than bases should always be 3/4.

Major manufacturers or looking to build as cheaply as possible and they get away with it becasuse the face frame hides the flimsy appearance.

But I'm talking from a frameless guy perspective.

IMO french cleats are a lot of extra work for not much return. Unless for some reason the wall is masonry or something by the time you get your cleats installed, I'll have several cabinets mounted ;-D


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## JackDuren

> There isn t any right answer other than bases should always be 3/4.
> 
> Major manufacturers or looking to build as cheaply as possible and they get away with it becasuse the face frame hides the flimsy appearance.
> 
> But I m talking from a frameless guy perspective.
> 
> IMO french cleats are a lot of extra work for not much return. Unless for some reason the wall is masonry or something by the time you get your cleats installed, I ll have several cabinets mounted ;-D
> 
> - Robert


Agree….the 1/2 reduces cost but also reduces shipping weight. I'm not into french cleats either.


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## Heyoka

For a teardrop trailer 1/2" ply will be fine,


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## Kenny13

I'm a little confused why a French cleat would be a lot of extra work. I find that it's easier to find the studs for the cleat than to try and attach a cabinet to the studs.


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## JackDuren

> I'm a little confused why a French cleat would be a lot of extra work. I find that it's easier to find the studs for the cleat than to try and attach a cabinet to the studs.
> 
> - Kenny13


Easier to put screws in than to mill a cleat. You have to find studs either way….


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