# Is this normal wear for a cross-cut sled?



## awsum55 (Jan 3, 2017)

I am noticing my cross-cut sled is showing signs of wear. I'm not sure why this is happening. I do switch between regular and thin kerf blades if that makes any difference.



















I'm very particular when it comes to my projects and don't like any tear-out or chipping at the joints. Without a clean crisp backing to prevent this, I get a less than desirable cut. Is this something I might be doing wrong, or is this just something that happens to all cross-cut sleds?

If this is normal, do any of you have a solution that can fix this without having to replace the sled. If I need to make a new one, I will make it so it will have replaceable sections. Mine is made with 3/4" Baltic birch plywood and I realize that it is not as sturdy as hardwood, but I prefer it's stability.


----------



## wildwoodbybrianjohns (Aug 22, 2019)

I just clamp a new piece of mdf to the upright part of the sled when the gap gets wider than the blade; which can be moved side to side or flipped when need be. This´ll prevent the tearout.


----------



## Loren (May 30, 2008)

I would screw on thin masonite are replace as needed. You only need enough thickness to countersink screws and the replaceable sections can be little pieces while the rest is permanent, nailed down for speed of construction if you want.

A drill can be reground for countersinking the holes perfectly if you want to use material as thin as possible. Standard countersinks seldom match the taper of modern screws.


----------



## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

1/4" tempered hardboard on mine. I just put it down with a few out of the way screws, unscrew and replace as needed. Currently looking to make a new sled, and going back and forth between James King's replaceable throat version, or just keeping it as I do now. Only difference I can tell is a lot of folks just put a cover over the slot. I cover the entire deck, so I don't have to saw on the tilt a wheel.

WoodSmith also offers one with a sliding adjustable deck It can do straight blade. or Dado.

But yes, that is normal wear. Overall I put the life expectancy of a sled at no more than 2 years, under heavy use it could be just months. The slot is the biggest wear point, but if you do a 5 cut at 9 months in, you will probably be shocked at your once dead on sled. Stuff moves under pressure, and even if it appears to glide, you are constantly pushing, and pulling that back fence, which as we know is the money end of the works.


----------



## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

I've had to redo mine a couple of times. I did a blog post on it here. It explains the process and the result is a flawless surface with a fresh zero-clearance slot.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

I use MDF skins screwed to my sled… The secret is to ensure you can keep the screw holes consistent (so you don't "swiss-cheese" the base) and positioned out of the way yet keep the skin secure. That way you can have a dedicated skin for any beveled ° and kerf size.

I did a project on it... while my design is over engineered, the concept is still useful.

I recommend 6mm (1/4") MDF (over 3mm) as it provides sufficient support once you start hacking into the base with multiple different angles… also 6mm is not a large sacrifice in depth of cut… If that turns out to be an issue, you may be overextending the limit of a cross cut sled.


----------



## Unknowncraftsman (Jun 23, 2013)

One reason I don't bother making fancy crosscut sled is they get wonky in my uninsulated shop pretty quick.
I'm lucky if I can get a year with one.
So I say it's normal wear and tear


----------

