# Craftsman 10" Contractor Table Saw Model 21833 - Alignment



## a1Jim

I've never had much luck correcting any of the many problems I've had with Craftsman saws. I hope it works out better for you.


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## thatwoodworkingguy

I never usualy use craftsman tools. The sander I got from them is one of the worst I have used to be honest.
I hope you have good luck with this saw.


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## Dusty56

They wouldn't allow you to return it or exchange it ? Does the showroom model do the same thing ?
Other than wrenches and screwdrivers (hand tools), I've had no luck with any of their power tools at all.
None of their help has a clue and other than selling us an extended warranty , that's about all they can offer us : (


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## smitty22

Dusty, 
No return or exchange since it's past 90 days, but they will repair it if I bring it back in minus the legs and the fence. I just don't feel like taking it all apart (again) and don't have much confidence they would fix it anyway.

Thanks for the suggestion on showroom model, but I think the local store sold the last one several months ago.


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## smitty22

Another very good review and discussion of this saw is here: http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/990
Several followup posts addressed the same alignment issue experienced on mine. Phillbob noted that the blade alignment problem was due to a mismachined arbor support bracket pivot. No solution.


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## smitty22

Update: PhilBobb was dead on the money: The problem he noted is the same as mine, machining and casting errors on the motor bracket and main trunion cause a varying interference between the trunion and bracket as the blade is raised or lowered. This causes the blade motor bracket and arbor to skew as the bracket rotates on the main pivot pin that connects those two.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d134/Tex223/Woodworking-1/IMG_1290a.jpg

After a long day of working this, my saw is now an empty lifeless hulk, but I've completed the machining to correct the problem. Tomorrow I'll reassemble chinese torture puzzle. http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d134/Tex223/Woodworking-1/IMG_1310a.jpg

If anyone is interested in the fix, I'll start another post in the Tools section showing the details. It's an ambitious project!


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## Eagle1

I bought mine about 2 months ago. I haven't had a problem at all. I do admit that it is quite heavy. I almost had a cow picking it up to put it up right, should of had some help. But every time I check the allinment it dead on runs quite and roll around real smooth. As far as the on off switch. It's moveable, I would move it to where its far out enough on the rail to not be bumped easly, but can still be turned off with you leg or knee.


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## ewoodzman

In the early 70's I too bought a craftsman table saw that I could not align. The resulting kick backs convinced me to give up on it for safeties sake. I have not bought a Craftsman power tool since. I wish you good luck and I hope this resolves to your satisfaction.


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## gbook2

smitty22: Thanks for the comments on the alignment problems with the saw. I too am having alignment problems when I raise and lower the blade. I thought it was a rip fence problem, but every time I brought the blade to its highest position, it was in perfect alignment… until I lowered the blade a little, then I saw it was way off.

The idea of lugging the thing out of my basement and having Sears send another one is just a miserable thought.

How did you end up fixing it?


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## smitty22

Hi gbook, 
I'm going to create a blog or new thread with the process that it took to fix this mess, but in a nutshell: 
1. Drop the the motor to free up the main trunion assembly.
2. Remove the trunion assembly. 
3. Machine the motor/arbor support structure to provide clearance between it and the main trunion assy. 
4. File or machine the excess web casting from the main trunion. 
4. Shim the motor arbor support so that the edge of the lower spur gear area rides on the main trunion boss/bearing area. 
5. Reassemble the whole thing.

Here are a few pics that might give an idea of the scope of the fix: 
The Problem Area - Pic #1
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d134/Tex223/Woodworking-1/IMG_1290a.jpg

Crooked holes - Pic #2
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d134/Tex223/Woodworking-1/IMG_1328.jpg

Main Trunion assy, cleaning up the casting where it interferes with the arbor/motor plate: 
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d134/Tex223/Woodworking-1/IMG_1326.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d134/Tex223/Woodworking-1/IMG_1327.jpg

Machining the arbor/motor trunion:
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d134/Tex223/Woodworking-1/IMG_1385.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d134/Tex223/Woodworking-1/IMG_1382Medium.jpg

Primary milled area, before/after: 
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d134/Tex223/Woodworking-1/IMG_1319a.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d134/Tex223/Woodworking-1/IMG_1394a.jpg

The Result, almost back in operation: 
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d134/Tex223/Woodworking-1/IMG_1412a.jpg

IMO, would have been easier to take it back, but no guarantee that it would have been fixed right, so I just did it meself! Best of luck with yours.


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## smitty22

Well, the table saw is all back together but the news is not good. The blade slewing as height adjusted is still there. not nearly as bad at the highest position but still unacceptable. Blade stays reasonably straight up to about 2" blade height, so it's at least useable for 90 deg cuts of up to 2×4's. I'm speculating that machining of the motor/arbor trunion pivot or other bearing surfaces is involved, but that will remain a mystery.

Sorry I couldn't come up with a solution for others with the same problem.


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## gbook2

smitty22, I'm sorry it didn't entirely work out, but thank you for your detailed description of your fix. I decided after reading the steps you posted that it was not worth it for to try to fix it myself. So I'm returning it and have Sears coming to pick up the saw tomorrow. Thankfully they said they will refund the entire amount I paid, and will not charge for pickup. I did need to take off the motor and trunnions to get the thing into the basement, so hopefully Sears will help me get the pile of steel out of the basement now.

I saw the 21833 isn't listed on Sears.com any longer. Maybe they noticed all of the problems too and decided to pull it. The saw has a lot of good features, but if it can't cut straight, its not worth anything.

I decided to go for the Grizzly G0438RL saw instead. It is about $200 more than the 21833, but I think it will be well worth it.


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## smitty22

gbook, sounds like a good move, best of luck with the Grizzly!


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## Chriskmb5150

Had this saw for a few days. it had terrible alignment issues so i took it back. (i was nice enough to put it back in its box) got my money back and shopped around for a week or so. Would've probably bought the delta 36-715 with the T2 fence if the guys at woodcraft in austin had it set up better. (the fence was stuck and it seemed to not be set up very well.) 
so I decided to get the 22116 with the granite top and biesemeyer-style fence because it was only $662 and seemed like a decent machine. First 22116 to arrive was damaged in shipping so i refused it. Second 22116 is due any time now. 22116 seems like a good saw for the money, i guess time will tell. I wouldnt buy the 21833 again no matter the price.


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## smitty22

Me Neither!

Hope the 22116 works out well for you.


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## knotscott

Smitty - That saw sounds like nightmare, but I laud your efforts for trying to fix it. I'm not sure who's making the 21833 but it sounds like it has some serious systemic issues.

Chris - The 22116 should prove to be a better saw for you. That design is more proven in the Ridgid and Steel City saws.


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## smitty22

Thanks Scott, you're right, it was a nightmare. but when I woke up I sold it. Took a loss but did get to complete a badly needed project with it, and learned a bunch about table saws while messing with the 21833, so all in all I guess I'll consider it a positive experience! No more Craftsman saws in my shop either.

Based on the fairly large number of these sold with the same reported problems, I would say that Sears and their supplier really dropped the ball on the design and QC for this saw. Almost worthy of 'recall' since the severe blade misalignment at either height extreme and potential kickback could really catch a person by suprise.

Sounds like the Sears outlet centers have a pretty good supply of these, not surprising!


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## NormG

I was just in Sears today picking a new (replacement) SBOX 8 set, someone purchased a 21833 while I was there. I checked and it is again listed in the web site


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## smitty22

Norm, Sure hope it wasn't one of the 'crooked' ones like mine! At the $409 price I've seen, and if straight, it's still a pretty good saw.


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## gbook2

I had planned to get the Grizzly contractor saw, but through a series of discontinued and back ordered items, the best I could do was wait until September and pay $350 more than the Craftsman. When I saw the 21833 listed on their website recently at $409, I decided to get it again. This one is MUCH better. No alignment problems with the blade and raising/lowering. Well, its within 0.002" until the blade height gets to the very top and I hit the height stop, then its out by about 0.10", which still isn't bad at all. The previous saw had a manufacture date of 09/2009, this one was 05/2010.

The fence was a little cranky to get straight. It seemed to be because of the way I aligned the fence. I tried to get to the wings level with the table by using the fence to support them. Unfortunately the fence rails are not strong enough to keep the wings level, so that caused the fence to be out of alignment when it was set wider than 12".

Otherwise, this saw is fantastic with all the features! I guess I'm glad the Grizzlys were backordered, otherwise I would have paid a lot more for a very similar saw (without a mobile base).


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## smitty22

gbook, 
I'm very glad to hear that they may have recognized and corrected the manufacturing problems. Best of luck with the new one, IMHO still a good saw for the price, and if mine had been straight, would still be using it. 
As it is, my shop has a big hole waiting to be filled and bet it's going to cost me a bit more than $409!

Cheers,


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## NormG

Mine also has a 9/2009 manufacture date. All appears well, In fact, I just now going ahead and replacing the bolts just to be proactive. My fence was also a bit more than planned to set up.


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## woodpicker

Well sorry to say looks like sears has not changed any thing on the saw i have a build date of 5/2010 and i have the same issues as others have posted will be giving sears a call to return asap too bad i did like the saw


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## smitty22

Picker, that's sure a shame, but the manufacturing and/or QC on many of that model really suffered. Wish mine had been straight, but no luck either. It was 12/23/09 build, but not sure if the string of defective saws correlates to any specific dates or periods.

The newer Sears OR35505 might be a better saw in that same class, but no caster base which I really liked.

Anyway and as I noted above, no more Craftsman table saws for me, a new mustard-colored TS just sneaked into the shop last Friday, assembly is underway. It's just dropdead gorgeous!


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## woodpicker

Well heres the rest of the story returned saw yesterday and was told because i didn't have the original packageing that all they could do is give me a replacement so i took the new saw and left it in the back of my truck with the intention of returning it in a couple days unoppened, wouldn't you know a lightning storm came through last night with torrential rains and now i have a soaking wet box in the back of truck luckily i parked it so the back of truck was downhill from front so there was no buildup of water in back of truck, i just can't win with this saw !! i will let you know how sears handels a slightly expanded box 
Mike!!!!


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## smitty22

Mike, LoL, the big 'yuk-yuk' this morning was appreciated! Again, sorry for your continuing misfortune, but that was funny! Sure hope Sears is understanding.

Seems many of us that bought the 21833 have had some serious life-changing adventures with it. In rebuilding mine, I hurt my back and have been undergoing corrective physical therapy twice a week to correct that. I should of listened to Jim!


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## woodpicker

Here we go again still have not returned 21833 but the box is not that bad as expected so in the mean time i just got a great deal on the 22114 ( OR 35505 ) just can't bring myself to granite top saw, not really any cast iron tops in the 500 to 1000 range anyway, saw on sale for 699.00 - craftsman club discount 100.00 - minus 10% this weekend 60.00 - 15% bing cashback 95.99 pluss 33.75 tax and a grand total of 477.75 with all discounts from what i have read this saw is a really good saw especially for that price


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## NormG

Bought this saw in February of this 2010. Have not had much time to use until recently. Works just like it should until I was cutting some finger joints in 1" stock (first time with this saw). They were not seating square at assembly. I checked everything, my backing board was replaced thinking it had warped or something as here in Virginia we have had a very hot and humid summer and I do not have A/C in my shop and I have a aluminum jig. My neighbor checked behind me and still had the same problem. We put my setup on his TS with the same results. We then took my jig and attached it to his Inca Miter Gauge, the joint was great. We used his Miter in my TS and everything was fine also. Checked my Miter Gauge and the face is not at 90 degree to the TS Top. Of course there is no way to adjust this, so I need to go ahead and get a Miter Gauge sooner than I had planned.


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## smitty22

Norm, At least sounds like the basic saw is in good shape, so you were one of the lucky ones! 
The miter gauge on my 21833 wasn't very good quality, so an Incra V120 was the first accessory I bought. 
Finally sold the saw but kept the Incra.


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## Velez

Hi! I purchase the Craftman 218330 and I have the same problem for blade aligment, I would like to receive the process on how to correct this problem, I cant return the saw to the store


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## smitty22

Velez, I tried my best but was not able to correct the problem with my 218330 saw, as noted in post #11 above. 
Also see this thread, post #20 for more bad news- http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/990

I deleted the pics of my attempted fix from photoshop but will be happy to email them to you if you like, but caution that the problems I fixed and pictured were only the tip of the iceberg. The real root cause of the problem could only be corrected by replacing the arbor, the trunion, and the arbor support bracket. They are machined inclorrectly. My solution, sold it to a fellow that only uses it at one fixed height and is most happy with the saw.

I would sure try hard to get Sears to fix the problem. Best of luck and sorry for the bad news.


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## Velez

Hi Dale,

I was able to mitigate the problem with my Craftsman tablesaw, after reading all post here at LJ's, I remove the trunion bolts, I took the trunion and make the holes slight bigger, about 1/32 in diameter, and wider at left and right about 1/8 each side, so I have room for adjustment, and it work just fine, I had to fight to get it right, but I was able to get much better aligment, I was having problems since the blade was resawing at the back when feeding the board, but not anymore, so I'm happy now! the aligment is not really perfect, but is less than 1/64" so not so bad, next time I had to do maintenaince I may extend the left and right holes about 1/32 for each side so I have even more room, for now It's just fine. what do you think for this gap of less than 1/64"?


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## smitty22

Jorge, that's probably acceptable as long as it stays constant as you change the blade height, but very happy you have been able to improve the situation! 1/64" is 0.015625", and most alignment standards for table saws that I have seen try to achieve less than that, typically less than .005". Here is an excellent article on TS alignment that might be of use: http://woodgears.ca/delta_saw/alignment.html

That said, it was very helpful for alignment on mine to have changed the bolts that hold the trunions in place, use either a flange head bolt or a large thick flat-washer. 
Stock Bolts & washers: 








Note in this pic how the too-small head of the bolt squashes the washer up into the alignment slot. That makes it very difficult keep the trunions from moving as the bolts are tightened. In fact, darn near impossible.

Replacements: 









One of four installed: 









After changing the bolts, I was able to get the error down to less than .005" with blade heights less than 1". 
Cheers!


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## cdhilburn

I know this is late but I have the same saw. I purchased it about six or seven months ago. I have it good to about 0.001". It took a long, long time to get it right but I finally did get it. Maybe I have one of the good ones.


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## LepelstatCrafts

I am thinking of purchasing this saw. Since all of you have used it for some time now. Did the saw work out for you?

Thanks!


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## smitty22

MIke, I hope some of the other owners will reply, would be interested in their long-term evaluation too.

I'm sure you noted that I sold mine for reasons detailed earlier. Best of luck with your table saw purchase, but I sure wouldn't recommend the 21833.


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## Velez

Hi Mike, I have mine for a year now this x-mas, I'm ok with the performance for now since I cant get better quality locally in Mex for about same price, if I order from USA it will costme twice the price, I was able to minimize the misalignement but not fixed, I had adjusted2 times during this year so it dont get worst. I've seen other folks that got lucky and had their saw with out any problem, I encourage you to save some additional bucks and get a better one, the contractor saw's for other brands are better option. Again I'm ok with the saw but I would like to get a better one. unfortunatelly I cant for now, my budget does not allow.


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## gbook2

I think the saw was fine for the price, and it did work out well for me. However, it seems to be a complete crapshoot whether you get a good one or not. At least it was that way a year a half ago. Maybe they've fixed their quality problems since then.


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## LepelstatCrafts

It sounds like for $250 for a new one from sears, I really am throwing the dice on something that is almost 300 lbs…


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## lumberjoe

From what I read, this is a re-brand of the Ridgid Model # R4512. I am highly considering getting the Ridgid saw. I have not seen any reviews about the Ridgid having the trunion issues. Has anyone else heard of that issue on the Model # R4512?


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## crank49

Lumberjoe, I think it's the other way around. I had my Craftsman 21833 for over a year before Ridgid introduced it as a the R4512.

It's very frustrating to have a tool that is this close to being a good machine and just miss the mark over a little crappy machining and using cheap hardware.

This is my last Craftsman or Ridgid purchase of any stationary tools.

I don't think I'm alone in having that opinion.


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## johncran

Well, after reading all these posts about the 21833 I went ahead and purchased this saw anyway, primarily only because I work at Sears and used all the discounts available to me. It's much more of a saw than I need now, being a novice woodworker but hopefully will grow into it. I really wanted the 21829 but it's been discontinued.
I have it mostly assembled and found that the alignment is off about 1/8" +/- front to back of blade. Tried to adjust it but it's not moving. So my next plan is to do the modification Smitty did. I purchased the new bolts and washers and I guess i'm ready to start drilling out the trunnion holes. My question is do I have to flip the saw back over upside down and remove the trunnion from the cabinet or is there a more preferred method? I'm assuming all 4 holes need to be drilled, and the front right one seems to be the hardest to get at.
Thanks for all the great posts.


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## lumberjoe

1/8" is like a mile and a half as far as run out is concerned. How are you adjusting it and how are you measuring it? If it's not moving then you are likely doing something wrong.

The alignment issue doesn't have anything to do with the initial heeling. To test this, raise the blade a good amount and clamp a straight edge to the table - almost touching the blade. Put it right behind the teeth on the flat part of the blade (glullet). As close to the teeth as you can.

Loosen the height adjustment screw and attempt to raise or lower the blade. Just the act of putting pressure on the height adjustment lead screw will be enough to test. When you rasie or lower the blade, it if jumps into or away from your straight edge, you have a cast iron workbench with a 1.75hp motor. Sell it on craigslist for a profit or return it.

If it doesn't jump, adjust the blade alignment per the manual. This blog from a fellow lumberjock was a big help when I set mine up


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## smitty22

John, 
No, you don't have to flip it to get the trunion out, at least I didn't. But for sure take the motor out first before attempting to remove the trunion. That worked for me. As I recall, used blocks and a floor jack to assist.

I'm surprised that Sears is still selling these, and even more shocked that the same problems seem to be there. It's been over 2 years since I bought and sold my 21833, still feel the pain!

Best of luck with the saw and Merry Christmas, 
Dale


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## johncran

OK, I did some more post reading and ran across a rigid post about "trunnion pals" and how you had to grind off
the ears of the trunnions. So I went out to the garage to look at how to remove the trunnion as explained in the post pictures. I just purchased this saw last week, so when I layed on the floor to look up at the bottom of the trunnion, I noticed that the ends have been completely machined and the holes have been elongated!! Does this mean they have fixed the problem? They did the machining after the part was painted so it's bare metal.
I'll try and take a pic but don't know how to post pics here yet so I might have to email it to someome to post.


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## johncran

Here is the pic of the rear trunnion machined from the factory. As I said, I bought this saw new, from an unopened box, so I know it wasn't a returned saw that had been modified.


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## Velez

Hi johncran,

the pals will help to get proper aligment on the blade, however the problem of this saw is when you lower and up the blade, I had the same saw and with the pals I made I was able to get my saw perfect aligment, however the trunions is the problem, when I up or lower the blade the saw was misaligned again shortly. at least that was my experience. I did get less problem but still had it. then I sold the table saw and get the Laguna Fuson. very nice saw.


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## lumberjoe

Jorge is correct. Do the test I posed above before messing with the saw any more. If the blade moves during height adjustments, it's trash and there is no fix.


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## johncran

Thanks guys for your help and recommendations. Since it appears my trunnions have been factory machined,
I'm going to still replace the factory bolts with the new hex head hardware I bought and put it back together.
Do the tests you recommend and see what happens.


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## smitty22

John, Sounds like at least they attempted to improve the trunion mounting surfaces, glad to hear that.

But as both Jorge and Joe noted there are other problems. On mine there was serious interference between the trunion and the arbor bracket. As the arbor rotated with the height adjustment, it was forced to one side and skewed the blade.

I fixed that, but then found that the arbor pivot pin hole wasn't located correctly and it's axis wasn't parallel with the arbor shaft itself. Result was that the geometry of the arbor as blade height changed and caused a change in the axis of the arbor and blade. Just a really sorry job of machining that couldn't be fully corrected.

Jorge, nice to hear from you, and glad you got the Laguna!

Dale


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## johncran

Hey Smitty,
Again, thanks for your help. Seeing that the factory machined the trunnion mounting surfaces, would I be able to tell by looking if they fixed the arbor pivot pin hole problem as well? If not I'll just have to do an alignment measurement. I'm not going to consider returning the saw until I find out if the alignment problem has been fixed also. I'm well within my return period and I also bought the 5 year extended warranty.

John


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## lumberjoe

You should perform the alignment check that I posted above before doing anything else with the saw. If it fails there is nothing you can do but put it back in the box.


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## smitty22

John, Joe is spot on… If you see a significant (>.010" or so) change in the blade alignment with reference to the mitre slots as you change blade height, I'm afraid it can't be fixed. I'm hoping that yours doesn't have that problem, then all you have to worry about is getting the trunion/blade aligned with the mitre slots.

If the machining problem is there, the effect is that the trunion/arbor/blade can be aligned at one height, but as you raise or lower from there, the arbor and therefore the blade skews. Mine was really bad, but I aligned it with the blade at 2" height, then sold it with the stipulation that the blade wouldn't be parallel with the mitre slots if raised or lowered.

The buyer said he was just going to use it to cut 2×4 lumber for construction. I was OK with the carpentry application, but sure wouldn't try to use if for woodworking of a finer nature or with any hardwoods.

Good Luck, 
Dale


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## johncran

Well I swapped out the stock trunnion bolts for the upgraded hardware as mentioned above, and did the alignment as mentioned above. After a half an hour of tinkering I was able to get it +/- 1/32 front to back up and down. I'm pretty satisfied with that for now if it stays. I'll finish putting the rest of the saw together and run some wood through it and remeasure. If it holds maybe I'll consider putting a set of pals on it to get it closer.
I'm just doing hobby/craft work right now so dead on accuracy isn't needed just yet. Thanks for all your help.

John


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## lumberjoe

First, did you perform the check I mentioned above? A VERY large percentage of the craftsman saws have this defect. If it does you wasted a lot of time. Check this before you do anything else.

Also do not send wood through that saw. You still have about 5 miles of run out. Fully acceptable levels are 1 or 2 thousands of an inch - 3 is pushing it. You are off by *THIRTY ONE THOUSANDS*. That is *15 times* the acceptable level.

Also don't lie to yourself about your work. Whether you are making bird houses or heirloom Chippendale's, your pieces either fit or they don't. There is dead on accuracy, and there is swearing and rework - not much in between.

Not only is accuracy a factor safety is a factor. 1/32 of runout is a kickback waiting to happen. Your blade is poking out past the riving knife on one end.

Maybe I am missing something but I am having a hard time understanding why you are going through all this trouble.

1. Measure the runout to determine which way the tunions need to move.
2. Loosen the 4 trunion bolts, leave one kind of snug as a piviot point
3 - apply pressure with a bar clamp in the direction the blade needs to go
4- test and repeat until you have ~.002 or less

This really should not require drastic measures and I have never heard of anyone with the R4512 or the Craftsman cousin going through this effort. If you have the dreaded alignment issue, you have a junk saw. If not, align it and make some sawdust.


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## smitty22

John, Please heed Joe's advice, I couldn't have said it better. It IS a safety issue if not correctable.

A minor point but the term 'runout' might be confusing since it normally implies an error related to circular motion. I think in this case 'blade alignment' with respect to the mitre slots is really what we are trying to address.


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## johncran

OK, I'll keep working on it. I understand what you're saying about safety. I've never owned my own TS before,
always borrowed one if I needed to. With the blade alignment I have now, it measures the same from top to bottom, so maybe it needs a little more playing with to get the measurement closer. I'll mess with it after christmas when I have more time. Let you know.


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## lumberjoe

I'm not sure what top to bottom means, but that is a measurement I wouldn't be concerned with.

This is a good tutorial on measuring runout - http://woodgears.ca/delta_saw/alignment.html

Here is how to perform the adjustment on your saw

Again, you are possibly wasting an obscene amount of time. Before you even put another thought into aligning the arbor to the miter slots, you need to check for the defective condition as I posted above. A *very* large percentage of the craftsman saws have this condition. If the test fails, there is absolutely nothing anyone can do to correct this. No PALS, machining, tinkering, or hours of adjustment work. The factory service center cannot even repair this condition. I checked my R4512 before even assembling the base. This process can be performed in under a minute.

Install the blade

Clamp a straight edge to the table with the edge almost touching the blade right behind the teeth

Loosen the height adjustment screw and attempt to raise or lower the blade. Just the act of putting pressure on the height adjustment lead screw will be enough to test.

When you raise or lower the blade, it if jumps into or away from your straight edge, you have a cast iron workbench with a 1.75hp motor. Sell it on craigslist for a profit or return it


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## johncran

I performed the test as instructed above and my blade is at the same distance from the straight edge raised and lowered. As far as the trunnion alignment, I was able to get it where a piece of paper would just slide between the blade and straight edge front and back, with the blade raised and lowered. I don't have a dial indicator, so I don't know how thick a piece of copy paper is. That's where I'm at.


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## lumberjoe

A piece pf paper is still on the unacceptable side as far as run out is concerned (~.004). Also that is not at all a consistent or repeatable way to measure something. Pick up a dial indicator. You'll find it will get a lot of mileage in your shop and can be had fairly inexpensively (around 20.00 for a basic one that will do what you need it to do).

It's also important you measure the same tooth on your blade. Pick a tooth and mark it with a sharpie. Take your front measurement then move the tooth to the back of the saw at the same height it was in the front. Measure again with the dial indicator secured to your miter gauge. This is how you measure for run out. Measuring across the bade isn't the best. The teeth all have a different set, and the plate may not be completely dead flat (especially on lower end blades).

Also since you are aligning your blade perfectly to the miter slots, the dial indicator will make aligning your fence a breeze. Just flip the jig you made around and align your fence to the miter slot as well.

That's good news that the saw doesn't have the defect present. Once you get it aligned, you will have a great saw.


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## johncran

Does anyone make pals for this TS? I can't seem to find any online. I believe the size would be 10MM?

Also I can't find that $20 dial gauge you recommended! I do like the A-line-it one(red) but the basic one is
$60.


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## lumberjoe

Harbor freight sells one for 20$.

Before you looking for PALS, align the saw properly. Right now you are trying to fix a problem that isn't there.


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## HerbC

Here's a "1 Travel Machinist's Dial Indicator for $19.99 at Harbor Freight. It's currently on sale for $14.99. Took me longer to type this comment than it did to find it.

Good Luck!

Be Careful!

Herb


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