# Hand tool workbench



## brianl (Dec 18, 2009)

*Getting Started*

Due to a change of circumstances in my life, I recently moved from Nashville, Tennessee to Boston, Massachusetts. In the process I lost my garage workshop and gained a very small room in a dingy basement. Due the the space and noise constraints I have decided to try my luck with hand tools instead of the power tools I have relied on in the past.

Since my bench was left in Tennessee, I decided that the first thing I needed to build a new workbench. One that was sturdy, solid, hand made, able to take any abuse I want to inflict upon it, and yet be able to be disassembled and moved to a new residence at some point. So, I started digging around and found this popular woodworking article about building a $175 work bench (http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/175_Workbench/). I liked the design and I decided to give it a shot. This blog series will be the story of the workbench as it comes together with only hand tools.

Unfortunately, we don't have the article-specified Southern Yellow Pine in Boston, so I went with Douglas Fir instead. I have never done much work with hand tools before so I wanted something soft and easy to work with.

Next up, making the end assemblies…


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## rivergirl (Aug 18, 2010)

brianl said:


> *Getting Started*
> 
> Due to a change of circumstances in my life, I recently moved from Nashville, Tennessee to Boston, Massachusetts. In the process I lost my garage workshop and gained a very small room in a dingy basement. Due the the space and noise constraints I have decided to try my luck with hand tools instead of the power tools I have relied on in the past.
> 
> ...


When life gives you lemons.. make lemonaide! Glad to see you are building a new work bench… Sawdust makes everything better.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

brianl said:


> *Getting Started*
> 
> Due to a change of circumstances in my life, I recently moved from Nashville, Tennessee to Boston, Massachusetts. In the process I lost my garage workshop and gained a very small room in a dingy basement. Due the the space and noise constraints I have decided to try my luck with hand tools instead of the power tools I have relied on in the past.
> 
> ...


Sounds like you is off to a good start, I am sorry to hear you lost your shop.


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## JamieH (Sep 26, 2010)

brianl said:


> *Getting Started*
> 
> Due to a change of circumstances in my life, I recently moved from Nashville, Tennessee to Boston, Massachusetts. In the process I lost my garage workshop and gained a very small room in a dingy basement. Due the the space and noise constraints I have decided to try my luck with hand tools instead of the power tools I have relied on in the past.
> 
> ...


Can't wait to see the progress. I will be following with great interest!


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## brianl (Dec 18, 2009)

*Starting with the legs*

I changed the overall dimensions of the bench to accommodate a top that is two feet by four feet. My shop is pretty small so I'm trying to make everything more compact.

My first task with the new bench was to create the end assemblies. So, I used a German cross cut handsaw (http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/24-Hand-Saw-7-TPI-Cross-Cut-Teeth-Germany/productinfo/520-0600/) I ordered from traditional woodworker and got to work. Once I rough-cut the lumber down, I used my new Stanley #7 plane (bought used and refurb'd it myself) to joint the surfaces and get them ready for gluing.










After I had the legs together I started in on creating the mortise and tennon joints that would join the end assemblies together. Cutting tennons by hand is always an interesting proposition, but after doing a few I think I got the hang of it.



















After the dry fit I loosely put things together to see how they would do.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

brianl said:


> *Starting with the legs*
> 
> I changed the overall dimensions of the bench to accommodate a top that is two feet by four feet. My shop is pretty small so I'm trying to make everything more compact.
> 
> ...


That looks good.


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## Marc5 (Apr 1, 2009)

brianl said:


> *Starting with the legs*
> 
> I changed the overall dimensions of the bench to accommodate a top that is two feet by four feet. My shop is pretty small so I'm trying to make everything more compact.
> 
> ...


Got one going myself. Looking good.


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## knotfree (Sep 7, 2006)

brianl said:


> *Starting with the legs*
> 
> I changed the overall dimensions of the bench to accommodate a top that is two feet by four feet. My shop is pretty small so I'm trying to make everything more compact.
> 
> ...


Nice job Brian! I am building one of Chris Shwarz's designs also (Holtzapffel). I found his book on workbench design very useful too.


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## JamieH (Sep 26, 2010)

brianl said:


> *Starting with the legs*
> 
> I changed the overall dimensions of the bench to accommodate a top that is two feet by four feet. My shop is pretty small so I'm trying to make everything more compact.
> 
> ...


Whoah..this is looking good!Nice work with the hand tools!


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## brianl (Dec 18, 2009)

*Finishing the End Assemblies*

Before I put the end assemblies together I wanted to rig up the levelers. To level the bench I am using Hockey pucks with 1/2" bolts epoxied in them. I am then epoxying nuts into the legs of the assemblies.

The Levelers:










Testing the fit of a nut after I drilled a hole in the bottom of a leg using my drill press and a forstner bit.










Once the levelers were done it was time to look into finishing up the ends. I went ahead and used a 3/8" forstner bit to drill holes so I could peg the joints. I really want this bench to survive anything I throw at it and glue just didn't seem to be enough.










Once I got the pegs in it was time to glue up the end pieces. I used Titebond slow-set glue to put these together. If I had used normal Titebond there would be no way I could get everything together in time. My only concern is whether or not I got enough glue into the joints. Some of those mortises are big!










Up next, the stretchers!


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## DoctorDan (Feb 22, 2010)

brianl said:


> *Finishing the End Assemblies*
> 
> Before I put the end assemblies together I wanted to rig up the levelers. To level the bench I am using Hockey pucks with 1/2" bolts epoxied in them. I am then epoxying nuts into the legs of the assemblies.
> 
> ...


Looks good. Looks like it's coming together well.


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## brianl (Dec 18, 2009)

*Stretchers*

Now that the end assemblies are finished, it's time to see about getting the stretchers rigged up. They use a home-made bed bolt system that consists of a bolt that goes through the leg and into the stretcher where you make a mortise to receive a nut. In retrospect I should have just ordered bed bolts from Highland Woodworking. For more info on bed bolt joints, see this Fine Woodworking article.

Here you can see the mortises and the nuts that went into them. I used a forstner bit on my drill press to made the mortise. I thought about using my dedicated mortiser, but since I was working with a fairly shallow piece of wood (the stretchers are only 1.5 inches thick) I wanted the clean sides and bottom that a forstner creates.










I also recessed the bolt heads for a more finished look. Here you can see the completed joint.










Now, from the top where you can also see the pegged joints (before I trimmed the pegs).









After I got all of the joints assembled (it's so easy to say that, but it took me days of after-work work to do it!), it was time to start thinking about the lower shelf. Had I been using a table saw, ripping a piece of stock would have been trivial. However, since I was trying to avoid power tools as much as possible, I broke out my ripping saw and got to work. My initial cuts were not perfectly straight so I ended up planing down the pieces. I created a register for the bottom shelf:









And for the top. 









Finally, a shot of the lower shelving going in…









Next, on to the top!


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## Bluepine38 (Dec 14, 2009)

brianl said:


> *Stretchers*
> 
> Now that the end assemblies are finished, it's time to see about getting the stretchers rigged up. They use a home-made bed bolt system that consists of a bolt that goes through the leg and into the stretcher where you make a mortise to receive a nut. In retrospect I should have just ordered bed bolts from Highland Woodworking. For more info on bed bolt joints, see this Fine Woodworking article.
> 
> ...


Nice looking bench, should be sturdy and be able to support a lot of work and enjoyment. Another method
of bolting would be to use a barrel nut, if you can not find the size you need, I have made them by cutting
the shank of a bolt and drilling and tapping the bolt hole. A hacksaw will make a nice slot in the end so you
can align the threaded hole with the bolt. May you have many happy hours in the workshop.

As ever, Gus the 71 yr young laborer, trying to become a carpenters apprentice.


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## knotfree (Sep 7, 2006)

brianl said:


> *Stretchers*
> 
> Now that the end assemblies are finished, it's time to see about getting the stretchers rigged up. They use a home-made bed bolt system that consists of a bolt that goes through the leg and into the stretcher where you make a mortise to receive a nut. In retrospect I should have just ordered bed bolts from Highland Woodworking. For more info on bed bolt joints, see this Fine Woodworking article.
> 
> ...


Brian, I did mine the exact same way. The tenon keeps it aligned, and once you snug up the bolts, its rock solid. Nice job!


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## DavidHarms (Feb 25, 2008)

brianl said:


> *Stretchers*
> 
> Now that the end assemblies are finished, it's time to see about getting the stretchers rigged up. They use a home-made bed bolt system that consists of a bolt that goes through the leg and into the stretcher where you make a mortise to receive a nut. In retrospect I should have just ordered bed bolts from Highland Woodworking. For more info on bed bolt joints, see this Fine Woodworking article.
> 
> ...


Base turned out good, what are you planning to make the top out of?


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## brianl (Dec 18, 2009)

*Building the top*

Now that I have my base built, it is time to start on the top of the workbench. To do so, I decided to go with a glue-up of 2×4s cut in half. In the end my top should be 48" long and about 30" wide. Here are some initial pieces to show you the scale:










To build the pieces, I cut a douglas fir 2×4 in half, then hand-planed it to remove the rounded corners. I used my number 5 jack plane to remove material and my number 6 to smooth it out. I occasionally used my number 3 to smooth out any rough features. As you can imagine this produced a lot o shavings. It was also one hell of an upper-body workout!










After I got them all cut and planed, it was time to start gluing them together. I know some people have done this all at once, but I didn't trust myself to get them straight and level. So I decided to glue it up piece by piece.










I had to go out and buy more clamps to do all of this. The Medium-duty jorgensens (with the larger pads) seem to do nicely. The small ones I have noticed tend to mark the wood too much.










Once I had the top glued up in 2-board pieces, it was time to start gluing those together as well. In this one you can see the cuts I made to fit the front vise in. I'll talk more about that later.










Now the big question for me is about strength. I have been thinking about running two threaded metal rods through the top (against the board lay out) and then bolting it all tightly together. I wonder if that would increase the strength of it. I would hate to be working on something have the boards split apart…

Next up, more about the top and the vices!


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## DerekL (Aug 18, 2008)

brianl said:


> *Building the top*
> 
> Now that I have my base built, it is time to start on the top of the workbench. To do so, I decided to go with a glue-up of 2×4s cut in half. In the end my top should be 48" long and about 30" wide. Here are some initial pieces to show you the scale:
> 
> ...


If it's glued up properly, running two rods through it won't affect the strength. Heck, if it's not glued up properly, running two rods through it won't affect the strength.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

brianl said:


> *Building the top*
> 
> Now that I have my base built, it is time to start on the top of the workbench. To do so, I decided to go with a glue-up of 2×4s cut in half. In the end my top should be 48" long and about 30" wide. Here are some initial pieces to show you the scale:
> 
> ...


nicely done!

as for the rods - if you are just doing it to strengthen the top - I doubt it would make much of a difference. if the top is milled and glued up properly, the glue lines will be stronger than the wood itself. if it's not - then it'll wobble around even with the rods.

rods are usually used to strengthen cross joint such as the caps to counter the pulling action of the vises that otherwise could potentially pull the cap out of it's mating tenon on the benchtop.


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## BigTiny (Jun 29, 2010)

brianl said:


> *Building the top*
> 
> Now that I have my base built, it is time to start on the top of the workbench. To do so, I decided to go with a glue-up of 2×4s cut in half. In the end my top should be 48" long and about 30" wide. Here are some initial pieces to show you the scale:
> 
> ...


If you were going to use the rods, shouldn't you have drilled it *before *glue up?


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## knotfree (Sep 7, 2006)

brianl said:


> *Building the top*
> 
> Now that I have my base built, it is time to start on the top of the workbench. To do so, I decided to go with a glue-up of 2×4s cut in half. In the end my top should be 48" long and about 30" wide. Here are some initial pieces to show you the scale:
> 
> ...


Nice work Brian!
The rods are not necessary, There is plenty of long grain to long grain glue surface here. I made my top the same way and it is amazingly strong. You have a solid frame underneath supporting the top, so I as long as you use ample glue, you shouldn't have any problems. And BigTiny is right, you would have to dril the holes before glue up.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

brianl said:


> *Building the top*
> 
> Now that I have my base built, it is time to start on the top of the workbench. To do so, I decided to go with a glue-up of 2×4s cut in half. In the end my top should be 48" long and about 30" wide. Here are some initial pieces to show you the scale:
> 
> ...


Nice workbench, Brian!


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## Viking (Aug 26, 2009)

brianl said:


> *Building the top*
> 
> Now that I have my base built, it is time to start on the top of the workbench. To do so, I decided to go with a glue-up of 2×4s cut in half. In the end my top should be 48" long and about 30" wide. Here are some initial pieces to show you the scale:
> 
> ...


Brian;

Skip the rods as they will be of no value to your top strength. Maybe breadboard ends?

Thanks for sharing!


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## brianl (Dec 18, 2009)

*Tool rail and Leveling*

Since I got the top basically put together, it was time to worry about attaching a tool rail and leveling the bench.

I constructed the levelers from four hockey pucks. I drilled a recess in them and epoxied in a bolt by the head. I then drilled a matching recess in each leg and epoxied a nut in each leg. By spinning the hockey puck the bolt will move in and out, helping to level the bench.










To add stability to the system I also added a washer to the bolt head and epoxied that to the puck as well. Hopefully it will distribute the weight of the bench more.










I also decided to go ahead and attach the tool rail to the bench. I crosscut another piece of douglas fir to 48". I then created the spacers by ripping a 1/2" wide strip with my hand saw, cutting it into 6 4" chunks, smoothing it with a number 4 plane, and then attaching it to the previously mentioned piece. Doing so established a 1/2" slot along one side for me to rest chisels, saws, squares, etc… in while I worked. Very handy.










Finally, I also took this time to bore the bench dog holes. I did so with a 3/4" auger bit and a hand brace. I learned that I had to clamp a scrap piece of wood to the bottom while doing this, otherwise the bit would make a mess when it punched through to the other side.










I did the boring while the bench top was still not quite smooth. If there was any tearout I wanted to clean it up when I smoothed out the top. For most of the top I put the dog holes 4" apart from each other. I only placed them where I thought they would be useful. I can always come back later and add more holes - it's kind of hard to remove unnecessary ones though. I placed a series of them right where the shoulder vise and the front vise are. I figure those should get the majority of the use.

Up next, finishing up the leveling of the top and starting to attach the vises!


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

brianl said:


> *Tool rail and Leveling*
> 
> Since I got the top basically put together, it was time to worry about attaching a tool rail and leveling the bench.
> 
> ...


looking good. Don't forget after the benchtop is flat and smooth to chamfer all those bench holes - the sharp edge can really do damage while planing to your hands (don't ask me how I know)


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## DrewM (Mar 10, 2010)

brianl said:


> *Tool rail and Leveling*
> 
> Since I got the top basically put together, it was time to worry about attaching a tool rail and leveling the bench.
> 
> ...


I like the tool rail, might have to add something like that to mine


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## Marc5 (Apr 1, 2009)

brianl said:


> *Tool rail and Leveling*
> 
> Since I got the top basically put together, it was time to worry about attaching a tool rail and leveling the bench.
> 
> ...


I put a 24" tool rail on my bench and it is handy. The bench is looking great. I hope you post pics of it finished.


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## spunwood (Aug 20, 2010)

brianl said:


> *Tool rail and Leveling*
> 
> Since I got the top basically put together, it was time to worry about attaching a tool rail and leveling the bench.
> 
> ...


Inspiring man. I am rethinking my workbench for the sake of improved clamping/planing, sawing…


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## brianl (Dec 18, 2009)

brianl said:


> *Tool rail and Leveling*
> 
> Since I got the top basically put together, it was time to worry about attaching a tool rail and leveling the bench.
> 
> ...


Thanks guys, I'm glad you all enjoyed it. I'll make sure to post some photos once it is done.

PurpLev,

Thanks for the tip! I'll make sure to do that.


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## DrPain (Sep 2, 2009)

brianl said:


> *Tool rail and Leveling*
> 
> Since I got the top basically put together, it was time to worry about attaching a tool rail and leveling the bench.
> 
> ...


Adding a tool rail was one of the best things I've done to my bench. I can't understand why it isn't "standard" in every bench design!


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## Waldschrat (Dec 29, 2008)

brianl said:


> *Tool rail and Leveling*
> 
> Since I got the top basically put together, it was time to worry about attaching a tool rail and leveling the bench.
> 
> ...


I love that chisel or "tool rail" Thats a great idea, now the scharp tools do not bang against one another! This is one of the most innovative ideas for tool holding on the bench that I have yet seen!


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## brianl (Dec 18, 2009)

*Front Vise & Shelving*

Slowly plodding along. I was out of town for almost the entire month of December so not much has been done. However, I did manage to finally get the bottom shelf installed correctly.










My cuts were a bit too long so I ended up touching up the boards with a low angle block plane and then just screwing them in place. In addition to a storage area, the shelf also serves to hold ballast. You see, the original design of this bench was almost twice as large. However, in order to fit it into my small shop I had to make it smaller and therefore lighter. Right now I have a 50 lb sack of road salt down there to help keep the bench from shifting around so much.

I also attached the front vise: a Jorgensen Woodworker's Vise. I ordered the vise from Highland Woodworking and got excellent service as usual. They went above and beyond the call of duty to get my package rerouted to me after I gave them an old shipping address. I love those guys. So far it seems to work pretty well. The quick-release function is pretty neat. The only pain-in-the-butt part was mortising out the bottom of the bench to attach the vise to.










I mortised the face of the bench as well - that way the vise sits flush with both the top and the face. Once I got everything hooked up it worked like a charm. After cleaning up some of the oily residue on the vise with some alcohol, I gave it a good wipedown with wax to protect it. Now I have to decide if I am going to put wooden or leather faces on the vise.










Up next, the Shoulder Vise and on to Finishing!


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

brianl said:


> *Front Vise & Shelving*
> 
> Slowly plodding along. I was out of town for almost the entire month of December so not much has been done. However, I did manage to finally get the bottom shelf installed correctly.
> 
> ...


Functionality kicks in - that's always a sweet moment.

I see from your signature line that you're from Belmont. I used to live there a few years ago, now moved a couple of towns north.


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## brianl (Dec 18, 2009)

*Finished!*

Finally, my bench is complete! The last component - the shoulder vise, took the longest to fabricate and install. To be fair, I did lowball it and bought a Chinese-made vise from woodcraft. It's pretty easy to see the differences when I compare it to my Jorgensen front vise. The machining is inferior, the instructions are abysmal, and the fit is rough. I guess I got what I paid for. If I were to redo it, I'd go for a twin-screw vise.

To wrap the frame I built, I hand-resawed a 2×6 I had laying around. 









Finally, I got the body mounted, got benchdog holes aligned and drillled, and put on a coat of Tung Oil. I'll follow up with a couple more coats over the next few days.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

brianl said:


> *Finished!*
> 
> Finally, my bench is complete! The last component - the shoulder vise, took the longest to fabricate and install. To be fair, I did lowball it and bought a Chinese-made vise from woodcraft. It's pretty easy to see the differences when I compare it to my Jorgensen front vise. The machining is inferior, the instructions are abysmal, and the fit is rough. I guess I got what I paid for. If I were to redo it, I'd go for a twin-screw vise.
> 
> ...


sweet!

FYI that is a TAIL vise that you put on the bench and not a shoulder vise which would require a 5th leg to the bench (it's a cool vise but requires more floor space).

As far as I know there aren't many options for vise screw for a tail vise other than the one you got. I got he same one from Lee valley and the fit and finish looks identical (as does the color). I used it differently, but the hardware is the same. The Tail vise is the most complex to put together from my experience, but it does offer some good clamping options.

Now to using it!


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## groland (Jan 21, 2009)

brianl said:


> *Finished!*
> 
> Finally, my bench is complete! The last component - the shoulder vise, took the longest to fabricate and install. To be fair, I did lowball it and bought a Chinese-made vise from woodcraft. It's pretty easy to see the differences when I compare it to my Jorgensen front vise. The machining is inferior, the instructions are abysmal, and the fit is rough. I guess I got what I paid for. If I were to redo it, I'd go for a twin-screw vise.
> 
> ...


Hey nice job. You will enjoy this bench I am sure. Congratulations!

George


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## bigike (May 25, 2009)

brianl said:


> *Finished!*
> 
> Finally, my bench is complete! The last component - the shoulder vise, took the longest to fabricate and install. To be fair, I did lowball it and bought a Chinese-made vise from woodcraft. It's pretty easy to see the differences when I compare it to my Jorgensen front vise. The machining is inferior, the instructions are abysmal, and the fit is rough. I guess I got what I paid for. If I were to redo it, I'd go for a twin-screw vise.
> 
> ...


great work.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

brianl said:


> *Finished!*
> 
> Finally, my bench is complete! The last component - the shoulder vise, took the longest to fabricate and install. To be fair, I did lowball it and bought a Chinese-made vise from woodcraft. It's pretty easy to see the differences when I compare it to my Jorgensen front vise. The machining is inferior, the instructions are abysmal, and the fit is rough. I guess I got what I paid for. If I were to redo it, I'd go for a twin-screw vise.
> 
> ...


Very nice work. I checked back and saw that you are actually using just hand saws….....pretty interesting.

I am in a different position, I cannot do much hand work due to my job needs, and my aging wrists and hands. I am also 69 yrs old, but plan to keep working. I didn't worry about it 5 years ago. But, gotta live with what I got. So I am actually becoming more mechanized on purpose.

I have most of a the back of a double wide, double deep garage. Meaning I have the equivalent of a two stall garage, minus about 10%. At least when I can move the freezer(soon) that's how much I have. So I have a standard sized simple workbench built 40 years ago. But I mostly use 4ft x 2ft project tables, and I am beefing one up this weekend. So, we will be working on the same size bench, but I have three of those little ones. I will probably beef up one more at least.

So congratulations. You most certainly will enjoy that bench. Be sure to check out nbeener's bench, you were probably using the same plans, but his is full size. I remember working in a very small space in Tennessee, smaller than yours…..that was 35 years ago. I didn't have much space when I was in Fairbanks, either, but was there from '75 through '83. I came to Anchorage in 84', and then moved again in '85, partly because I needed more shop space, although I was just a doityourselfer.

Enjoy the bench, and your shop, it is what you make that counts…......

Alaska Jim


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## twokidsnosleep (Apr 5, 2010)

brianl said:


> *Finished!*
> 
> Finally, my bench is complete! The last component - the shoulder vise, took the longest to fabricate and install. To be fair, I did lowball it and bought a Chinese-made vise from woodcraft. It's pretty easy to see the differences when I compare it to my Jorgensen front vise. The machining is inferior, the instructions are abysmal, and the fit is rough. I guess I got what I paid for. If I were to redo it, I'd go for a twin-screw vise.
> 
> ...


Good stuff, great looking bench


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## woodworkerscott (Sep 12, 2010)

brianl said:


> *Finished!*
> 
> Finally, my bench is complete! The last component - the shoulder vise, took the longest to fabricate and install. To be fair, I did lowball it and bought a Chinese-made vise from woodcraft. It's pretty easy to see the differences when I compare it to my Jorgensen front vise. The machining is inferior, the instructions are abysmal, and the fit is rough. I guess I got what I paid for. If I were to redo it, I'd go for a twin-screw vise.
> 
> ...


Now you have time for those picture frames, lol.


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## kaerlighedsbamsen (Sep 16, 2013)

brianl said:


> *Finished!*
> 
> Finally, my bench is complete! The last component - the shoulder vise, took the longest to fabricate and install. To be fair, I did lowball it and bought a Chinese-made vise from woodcraft. It's pretty easy to see the differences when I compare it to my Jorgensen front vise. The machining is inferior, the instructions are abysmal, and the fit is rough. I guess I got what I paid for. If I were to redo it, I'd go for a twin-screw vise.
> 
> ...


Just read throgh your blog. Great work & thanks for sharing!


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