# Router table for the table saw



## Medickep (Aug 22, 2013)

I'm sure this topic exists, but I was unable to find it anywhere. I was wanting to build or buy an extension for my router to place in in the extra area between the fences on my Rigid TS3650. I've heard this is easy to do so I was wondering if anyone had some good plans for it or tips on attaching it.

Thanks in advance!


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## pmayer (Jan 3, 2010)

I did this on my previous table saw. I loved having this in place, particularly in a smaller shop where I would not have had room for a dedicated router table. It's quite easy. I don't have a plan for you but I'm sure there are a few available on line.


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## Medickep (Aug 22, 2013)

Any pictures? or suggestions on how to mount it to the cast iron wing? I was planning on leaving both wings on!


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## Tomoose (Mar 1, 2009)

I bolted mine to the existing tapped holes in the table, and then also to the rails. this setup works great for me, as I am limited in shop space. i suppose you could drill/tap your wing if there is adequate material there.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/25818

Tom


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Looks like Tom has a beautiful set up.
Here's some info on how to do it.

http://www.shopnotes.com/files/issues/100/6-step-router-plate-installation.pdf


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## Medickep (Aug 22, 2013)

Thanks guys! Any reason you can't leave both wings of the cast iron top on? would that be enough room for the router??


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

No reason you can't leave both wings on. I've done it with my last 3 saws.


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## Medickep (Aug 22, 2013)

O'ya, pretty badass setups! I was thinking some L bar would attach the router table to cast iron wing, but how does the router table attach to the other side? Just using the bar that slides in the fence to support it???


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## tatertott (Nov 9, 2013)

do you use the same fence or do you have to have arouter fence


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## sparks (Dec 10, 2009)

I have the same saw and I used the bar that is in between the fence rails on one side and u clamps to bolt the top around the bar then on the other side I sued the bar from and F stlye clamp that was broke and cut it to slide in between the fence rails like the bar and bolted clamps to the top. It works well and is easly removable if need be.


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## Finn (May 26, 2010)

I have this same saw (3650) and installed a router where you suggested. I used MDF reinforced with 1" square metal tubing and with an aluminum router plate, inset into the MDF. I attached the MDF to the saw rails by screwing wooden cleats to the underside trapping the saw rails.


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## Medickep (Aug 22, 2013)

Jim-

Is there any reason you can't leave both cast iron wings in place? Any photos on the install?

Thanks!


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## Finn (May 26, 2010)

I have no photos but I removed nothing from the saw to install this. I never removed either of the wings.


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## Medickep (Aug 22, 2013)

Well, that gives me hope that it's possible to attach the router table to the saw the way I want to do it. Since I've never done this before, what's the best way to install the table while keeping the table flush with the cast iron table top.

I'm assuming I'll have to drill into the cast iron to attach one side, not sure about the other side. Also, for the front and the back, do you merely used screws that slide into the fence slots?


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## Finn (May 26, 2010)

What I did was to attach two 1/4"x 2" x 12" pieces of wood the the underside of my MDF that stick out past the MDF on the front and back. These (approx) 1/4" slats fit into the slots that are on the inside of the fence rails. I screw these approx 1/4" x 2" boards to the underside in such a way that as they snug up the MDF is secured in place. If I took all this off there would be no way to tell it was ever there. I did not drill into the saw leaf or fence rails in any way. To stiffen the MDF where it meets the cast iron wing I screwed in place a 3/4" square tubing to the underside of the MDF from the top with counter sunk screws.


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## Medickep (Aug 22, 2013)

Jim-

I think I'm following you. The approx. 1/4" part slides into the slat opening of the fence at the front and the back. Then they are 2" high to make them flush with the cast iron wing. Than the whole table is about 12" in wide away from the saw blade??

Sound correct?

Thanks a bunch!


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## Finn (May 26, 2010)

They are not 2" high they are 2" wide and 1/4" high. The 1/4" x 2" x 12" slats are installed horizontally, screwed to the underside of the MDF and sticking out enough to fit into the 1/4" slots that are in the rails.


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## Medickep (Aug 22, 2013)

Okay, light bulb with off. They slide into the fence slots using the approx 1/4" and the MDF table rest on those and could be removed, but you have screwed it to those pieces!


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## Medickep (Aug 22, 2013)

So I've got a solid approach I believe for the router table. Does anyone have any thoughts on a router fence? I though Primarily I would use the table saw fence, but figured I would attach something to it so it could move in and out from the router bit.

Ideally I would also setup the dust collection from underneath, so it's out of the way of my table saw, but it appears everyone does it from above. Does it matter??


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

Hi Keith - This one isn't mine, but it's pretty similar to some I've made and shows some good detail of the design.


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## Medickep (Aug 22, 2013)

Thanks knotscott. On something like this, would you remove it when you're not using the router?? Seems like it would get in the way. I guess I envisioned one that would attach to the TS fence and some how allow room for a dust port.

Thanks


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## retfr8flyr (Oct 30, 2013)

I installed the Incra Table saw combo #3 system on my Jet saw except I left the cast iron wing on and turned the router table around. This way I can work around the end of the table when using the router and I still have the cast iron wing for most of the TS cutting jobs. I really like the setup for the limited space in my shop.


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## Medickep (Aug 22, 2013)

Thanks to everyone here I have a solid approach. I was able to find the square head bolts that fir in the rails like the stock ones and decided to to mount some angle iron for the phenolic table to rest on. It will be about 1/4" lower, so I'll be able to use some shims to get it at the perfect height.

Two questions: As I don't want to put to much stress on the fence rails.

What are the dimensions of people's router table?

Did you put any sort of support under it i.e. leg to the ground!

Thanks


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## Medickep (Aug 22, 2013)

Well I finally got around to finishing this idea of putting the router in the TS! I got side tracked with two work benches when I picked up some free tools!

It's not perfect, and was harder than I thought it would be, but I got her done! I want to thank everyone for their input as I would not have been able to do it without the help from everyone, especially Jim via multiple private messages!!!

If I was good with a router it would have been much easier and I wouldn't have the "wow" in he cut out for the router plate!

I ended up using L bar with square head bolts that slid into the fence rails and made the holes in the L bar so it was barely lower than the cast iron wing. I than used shims and some beer/patience to get it at the perfect height! I had some left over aluminum flat bar so I reinforced the 6 layer plywood with phenolic (not sure I needed this!)

If I was to do it again, I would make the four bolts that secure it to the L bar not visible. Not sure why I convinced myself to do it this way, probably a lack of experience!


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## ToddinNH (Jan 28, 2012)

Before I upgraded to a Unisaw I used to use a contractor saw. I bought a benchdog cast iron wing and it worked great. You can see more about what I did here: http://www.homeconstructionimprovement.com/bench-dog-promax-router-table-extention-product-revie/


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## Medickep (Aug 22, 2013)

I looked at those, but u think the price scare me off. This was a little cheaper!


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

Here is what I did to my Unisaw.
I instated a Bench Dog table


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## Medickep (Aug 22, 2013)

Here's shat my finished project looks line with the fence completed. I liked this design as it didn't eat up room for large pieces on the TS!


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## Finn (May 26, 2010)

Very nice job! Looks better than mine does. I like your fence addition. I just used a 4×4 on mine. I seldom have it installed on the fence because I usually use this saw with the fence to the left of the blade and it would be in the way.


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## toolie (Mar 16, 2011)

beer + TS = bad combination


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## Medickep (Aug 22, 2013)

Thanks ! It was a fun project.

Toolie-

The beer was at night during assembly. Family was in bed so I couldn't run the tools anyway!


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## Bobmedic (Sep 24, 2010)

Here


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## Medickep (Aug 22, 2013)

looks good!


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## wbrisett (Dec 21, 2011)

Ironically, I'm getting ready to do this myself. However I'm cheating a bit since I already own the Incra TS-LS fence.

I'm adding the Incra table saw router table (replaces the right wing on my Unisaw) and wonder fence system. I've been fighting for more shop space for quite some time now and having to my router in a portable table has had its limitations. Christmas is always a great time of the year to pickup gifts for the shop since just about everybody had sales this time of the year. I had been eyeing a Leigh jig for dovetails, but with the sale I found on the Incra stuff it ended up being cheaper and in the long run since I already own the TS-LS fence it will be more versatile (at least that's my hope). 

Wayne


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## woodenwarrior (May 23, 2012)

I have that exact saw and I needed the exact same thing. Here is a photo of mine. It came from the WOOD magazine plan "Mobile Saw and Routing Station" you can find the plans on their website.


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## Medickep (Aug 22, 2013)

Since I built this router table and fence before I learned to use the router well, I have a rookie question.

When using the fence, should the bit always be between the adjustable fence sections?

Or is it all right to have the non routed edge of the stock up against the fence and rout the edge closer to the edge of the table saw.

If it's not the latter, I may spin my router table around to get a larger working are!

Hope this makes sense!


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## lepelerin (Jan 13, 2012)

For safety concern I would definitively always use the bit between the adjustable fence and move the piece of wood against the fence. If you try the other way around your piece of wood could be trapped and fly around and your fingers shorten at the same time.


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## Hinge (Oct 11, 2013)

Medic, real nice job.


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## Medickep (Aug 22, 2013)

Thanks Iepelerin and hinge!


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