# Question re best way to rip 1/2" L shape maple?



## Lt_scout (Nov 1, 2016)

Hi Guys,

I'm cutting 3/4" x 1/2" x 17" long maple strips as edging for 1/4" baltic birch plywood to fit into, to cover the edge of the plywood. I have been ripping this stock on my table saw. For the rabbet on the 3/4" stock, I'll adjust the blade height to 1/4" and rip it using a feather board to press it against the fence to cut the groove, then move it over, then cut again.

For the 1/2" L shaped stock I simply ripp 1/4" off the side of the 3/4" stock as trying to cut a 1/4" rabbet from 1/2" stock seems tricky. Again I'll use a feather board and push sticks to feed the stock through.

This is working, I'm using a full kerf ripping blade. Is there a better way to do this? I feel like there is but I'm not sure?

Thanks again for the advice before I cut more material in this manner.


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## bndawgs (Oct 21, 2016)

Do you have a router table and rabbet bit?


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## Lt_scout (Nov 1, 2016)

Hi Steve, I do have router table and rabbet bit but I figured running stock through the router table would take longer? i should try it


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## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

On a TS I would use a different blade. There are 3 choices I am aware of, one of which you may have.

Freud has their Dado set for box joints which gives a perfect 1/4" or 3/8" kerf with a 2 blade stack, has FTG teeth so nice flat bottoms.

https://www.freudtools.com/products/SBOX8

A standard good quality dado stack set to 1/4"

https://www.infinitytools.com/saw-blades-accessories/table-saw/table-saw-blades/dado-saw-blades/dadonator-stacked-dado-blade-set-with-5-8-bore

Or a single blade with a FTG that gives a dead flat bottom, and happens to be .250 wide at the cut. I have the .250 version of this flat top grind blade, and it's a thing of beauty for quickly running in drawer bottoms, clear clean cutouts of exactly .250 such as what you want, use a sac fence so you don't spoil your saws fence. You don't bury, but still that close to the fence, you want a buffer. Plus this blade is magical for TS lock joints like a dado rabbet.

https://www.infinitytools.com/saw-blades-accessories/table-saw/table-saw-blades/flat-top-saw-blades/8-flat-top-blades

The problem with having an exposed edge and using a standard blade is it likely has an ATB or otherwise tilted profile, so you only partially remove the last bits of wood from your multi pass, you either get wedges, or bats ears, but not flat bottoms, so from a show side it looks really gappy.










Plus that is also why Steve asked if you had a router table with a rabbet, or even a straight cut bit would clean out your track, and leave a flat bottom. Thing is it's a one pass on the TS, and usually a multi pass on the router table to get the needed depth.

I realize on the saw blades unless you already have a good flat bottom blade set of dado blades, you would likely have to buy something. I like the TS for faster cutouts like you are doing, and I do locking joinery on the TS pretty often, so I own all 3 of the blades I spoke of. I use them often too. If you don't see yourself doing box joints, and making rabbet cuts like this often, then possibly the router would be best bet.


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

I'm with Steven, I'd use a dado stack if you have one. If not, router table will do the trick, just take a little longer.


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## Lt_scout (Nov 1, 2016)

Yes! a Dado stack… of course… I have one, I never use it I always just pass it though the saw a few times instead but for this project, where I need a good supply of the aforementioned trim it's well worth me setting up and doing it this way.

The ripping blade I'm using is a dedicated CMT flat grind blade, it's a lovely blade, but it's a way better idea to setup 1/4" dado and get it done.

...and the L stock, I'll just dado that leaving a 1/16" on one side to trim off later (upside down), in order to keep the stock stable as it runs through the saw. Thanks Steve and Ken )


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