# Building a router table insert for a table saw



## lumberjoe (Mar 30, 2012)

A while back I purchased the bench dogs cast iron insert for my table saw. I like it, but my plans have changed. It was going to be on the left of the blade. I also purchased the Incra LS-TS fence system which I have to wait another 3 weeks or so to get. After a lot of research and videos, I really want the incra wonder fence for my router. That thing is amazing. Incra is really on top of their game (I just wish their stuff as cheaper). That means the insert needs to go to the right of the blade. Here are my questions:

Materials: Melamine? MDF? Buy a laminate counter top and cut it to fit?
Insert or no Insert? I see a lot of both. I have one that I ordered with the bench dogs kit, but it's unopened and I can still send it back. Also it's kind of crappy looking and some reviews say it sags over time with a heavy router (I am using a PC 7518)

Anyone in the western MA area that wants to buy the bench dogs cast iron insert, I can save you the wait and shipping cost if you get back to me by Monday


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

I build two router tables with melamine stuff, they both sagged over time, this is why I bought the bench dog cast iron table.The grizzly table is also nice


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## NiteWalker (May 7, 2011)

My choice would be formica laminated MDF with hardwood bracing underneath and around the perimiter (laminate AFTER applying the hardwood edging for a seamless top). Get your bracing flat and the table surface will stay flat.

For thickness, 1 1/2" (2 3/4" sheets laminated together) will give you decent weight and stability, but you cna use 3/4" as well as long as it's braced properly.


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## lumberjoe (Mar 30, 2012)

No need for edging, this is getting dropped in a table saw and will be surrounded on all 4 sides. In driving home, there is a kitchen cabinet shop about half a mile away. I stopped in to see if they have any counter top scraps. They are cutting this stuff called Formica MDF Solidz for a vaniry tomorrow, which is supposed to act like a natural stone counter top but is some kind of funky impregnated MDF I guess. He said it machines like wood and it will be free for a 2ftx3ft piece, so I'll give it a shot.
Off topic but i am grabbing a lot of plywood and some hardwood scraps too. His motto is "giving it up for free is cheaper than a dumpster pickup". I like this guy.
My question now is, how do you attach MDF to MDF? Wood glue and screws? Just screws? Liquid nails and screws?I've never worked with MDF other than screwing it down to some 2×4's for a table top.


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## Alexandre (May 26, 2012)

Joe, What table saw do you have?


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## NiteWalker (May 7, 2011)

I'd use the edging as it gives a much more durable way to attach it to the tablesaw; mdf along can compress pretty easily. I would do it for durability personally.

Glue and clamps work fine, glue and screws do too, just make sure to do all your layout for the router plate and things like that so you don't put any screws in that area.


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

@lumberjoe - you need to make that guy your friend!!! Whatever it takes.
If he was in Texas, he would be getting a double meat and cheese *Whataburger * on the house!


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## lumberjoe (Mar 30, 2012)

Alexandre, the almighty Ridgid R4512.

NiteWalker, good call. I will do that. I have tons of thin, useless strips of oak I can use. I am going to use the bottom piece of MDF to make the template to cut the top with. I have it planned out in my head, we'll see if it works.

MT_Stinger, I make my own beer as well as making stuff out of wood. I'll be showing up with a few imperial pints. If he's not a drinker, I make my own soap too. In manly scents of course.


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## tomd (Jan 29, 2008)

Maybe use some biscuits also.


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## cutworm (Oct 2, 2010)

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/62281


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## lumberjoe (Mar 30, 2012)

I got all my stuff today. I decided to go with the Jessem insert and I am glad I did, That thing I nice. I got it drilled for the router base, that took about 4 minutes, super simple thanks to the centering insert. thanks Jessem!

Now, I have absolutely no idea how to cut the insert. Any tips would be appreciated. My only idea is to put the insert on the table and box it in with some MDF I have. Pull the insert out and use a top bearing (pattern) router bit to cut the outline by riding the bearing on the MDF.

Questions:
1 - how do I keep the MDF "template" down? I see a lot of people use double sided tape. This will have to be on the top of the table. I have used double sided tape on stuff that was permanent, and that stuff is PERMANENT. How would I get it up after? I don't want to use brads either, Again this is the top and I don't want holes. I also can't clamp it because the router sub base has to ride along the top of the template. Clamps would be in the way.

2 - the edges of the plate are curved. Do I need a specific size diameter bit? I have a few Whiteside pattern bits; 1/2" and 1" diameter. In roughing the router around the template (framed MDF), neither appear to match the curves on the edges.


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## crashn (Aug 26, 2011)

Can you not just use the same piece on the other side? My peachtree router table wing can be mounted to either side. Or am I missing something?


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## lumberjoe (Mar 30, 2012)

I am referring to the table not the insert. I need to stick the template to the top so I can route out a groove the insert sits in


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## MichaelR (Oct 1, 2011)

Joe, I bought the Jessem Master Lift from Rockler a few years ago for my PC 7518. The radius looks to be 3/4" if I measure that right. It's not 1/2" or 1" for sure.

I used some double stick tape to put the template in place but then followed up with a board clamped across one side. This let me route a little over half the cutout then move the clamped board to the other side to finish it off. The tape made sure the template didn't move while I switched the clamp. If you don't let the tape set for too long it's not quite so hard to remove.


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## lumberjoe (Mar 30, 2012)

I found a PDF online. It would have been nice to include in the box. It is a 3/4 radius, which requires a 1 1/2" pattern bit. I have never seen one of those.


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## Alexandre (May 26, 2012)

Joe, Thats why I have a Mast-R-Lift Excel II (the full version with all the tweaks…)
No hassle for me


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## lumberjoe (Mar 30, 2012)

My router has over the table adjustment, so I really can't justify a lift. Also the install is identical so there is no difference there either. This has the identical footprint of the lift and identical install instructions.


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## lumberjoe (Mar 30, 2012)

The duoble stick tape worked - BUT, the radius for the corners is way off. Looks like I am going back to woodcraft to grab a 1 1/2" pattern bit.

Side note - Whiteside router bits are amazing. I really don't care how much they cots at this point. After using the few that I have, they are 100% worth the money.


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## NiteWalker (May 7, 2011)

I don't think there's such a thing as a 1 1/2" pattern bit; the biggest I know of is 1 1/8". I buckled and bought the woodpecker mdf template.


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## lumberjoe (Mar 30, 2012)

There isn't, however I was able to find a 1 1/2" mortising bit with an optional guide bearing attachment. I think a 20$ template I will use once is cheaper than a 60$ router bit I will use once. Although - I almost got it last night. I used a 1 1/2" forstner bit to drill out the corners and then routed the rest. The corners are the correct radius. but are really proud and leave big gaps, and they are way too deep. Drilling through melamine is not easy. The top offers a TON of resistance, the particle board offers none. I could get it with a few more adjustments, but I don't know how much more melamine I feel like ruining. I've gone through almost a full sheet already.

There are tons of people on here with router table inserts, what is the trick guys?


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## ralbuck (Mar 12, 2012)

Router table

I had an old bench top 10" saw that had died, mounted my router in it and hated it! I took off the aluminum top, used a piece of countertop, mounted to the frame. I then enlarged side holes for router access. I then made a fence from oak. Cutting a 1/2 circle in the middle so I could run right over the router bit and adjust for my need. I have used this for years and like it well.

It was even used in a highschool woodshop class; because it worked better than the table set-up they had!

My fence is deliberatly exrtra length. It is made so I can angle it when I want to.

I made wheels/circles all the time with it. I had drilled 1/4 inch holes through the top in various places. I could then approximate my center-- drill my 1/4 inch hole in my project. Stick a 1/4 in rod(I used an old Phillips screwdriver.) Just went around carefully and had the circle/wheel I needed! Just make very sure your hole is true square from the table, and yuor pin is a snug fit!

Cheat and wax the pin with a little of your wife's stub candkles she throws out! Hey I use them on my router bits also. ACTUALLY I use them on most of my blades etc. EVen the table on my scrollsaw, not sometimes-all the time! Cheap-works-Try IT what do you have to lose?


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## Tomj (Nov 18, 2011)

If you check out woodsmithshop.com and sign up you will get a bunch of free tips and they also have plans for a router table and explain how to do everything. The plans are for an actual router table but can easily be adapted for a table saw. Good luck.


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