# Delta band saw wheel and bearing removal



## Charlie75 (Mar 14, 2012)

Can any one point me to a video or directions for removal of the upper and lower band saw wheels and bearings? The old band saw I recently aquired is quite noisy when I turn it on. As long as I have it torn down for painting I thought it would be a good time to replace the bearings.

I understand that these bearings are quite common so I should be able to find them easily.

I was also wondering about replacing the tensioning spring too. Is this usually necessary? Do any of you replace the tensioning knob with the cranks I have seen on Amazon.

Charlie


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

There was a good pictorial on how to remove the upper bearings, but I can't find it at the moment.. think it was over at owwm.org maybe..

Anyway, the bearings are pretty simple. Top bearings are got to by first taking off the nut holding the wheel on and removing the wheel. At that point, the shaft will be loose, so you can remove the tension assembly on the back for cleaning also. The bearings will be in the wheel, and each one has a retaining clip behind it and there is a metal spacer between them. You can reach in with a screwdriver and move the spacer over enough to get a punch or wood dowel in there to knock the bearing out. Just keep going around in a circle (ie: top, bottom, left, right, repeat..). Once you get the first one out, the second one is a breeze. They are friction fit, so you don't need too much force. Then take out the retaining clips with some needle nose pliers. Here are all the parts involved:










In the middle you can see the cllips that sit behind each bearing, and the spacer that sits between them. The shaft is removed from the tracking hinge by pushing out the long skinny rod shown. Just poke it out from one side of the assembly and remove.. then the shaft will fall out.

For the lower bearings, start by taking off the wheel on one side and pulley on the other. The wheel has a woodruff key that may give you some trouble, but a good even force should break it loose. Then take off the compression nut on the pulley side. Once you have that off, if you are lucky, the outer (pulley side) bearing will just pop out by itself as it has some spring washers behind it (see picture). I've seen them with just one or two spring washers.. mine actually had 3! If it doesn't come out, just bang on the shaft from the front with a wood mallet or similar and it should pop it right out. Then you can do the same with the front bearing. These are more or less slip fit, so it shouldn't require much force. Parts involved are:










Ignore the ugly pulley in the picture.. that was the non-original one that was on my saw when I got it.. I later replaced it with the correct one (Delta P/N #5800)..

I would take the bearings out, or at least visually verify their numbers before ordering.. while they might be what is called for in the manual, they might not.. you never know what a PO may have done in the past. I've seen where they had been changed to the 'new' style bearings which don't have the extended inner race. The proper bearings should be 87502's up top and 87504's on the bottom. While you are ordering them.. go ahead and get two new blade guide thrust bearings (6200-ZZ). I think it was around $50 (including shipping) for all of them from Accurate Bearing Co..

Get a spring if yours looks tired.. or leave it.. doesn't matter much unless you are unable to properly tension a blade, and it can always be replaced easily in the future if you decide.

Cheers,
Brad


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## Charlie75 (Mar 14, 2012)

Thanks Brad. I may tear into thie bearing thing this afternoon.
While I am thinking about it what paint did yoiu or would you use to paint a saw like this? I have read some posts that say thre is a Rustoleum that many use.

Charlie


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## Charlie75 (Mar 14, 2012)

Brad or anyone else who cares to weigh in on this thread. I got the upper wheel and shaft off. That was a piece of cake. I am having trouble getting the bearings to budge so far.

The lower wheel is pretty much stuck. The pulley is attached by a wedge sort of thing with 2 screws in it. After repeated soakings in Gunk and WD 40 I got the loose but so far I have not been able to get the thing off the shaft. Also the nut on the lower wheel won't budge so far. I stuck a piece of wood between the spokes and tried to wrench the nut off. So far nothing. I am going to keep soaking that nut and see what happens tomorrow. Any ideas?

The bearings in the upper wheel I have not been able to pound out yet either. I am open to suggestions.

*EDIT* I just got the bearings on the upper wheel out. Tear down wise the upper wheel is done. 
Charlie


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## mantwi (Mar 17, 2013)

I had to use a gear puller to remove some bearing on an old tablesaw. The ones with three hooks are preferable to the two legged ones. Ypu can use a heat gun or proane torch on the wheel (not the bearing) to get it to expand a little and this will ease the process. Here's a video that shows how to put the bearing back on.


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## Charlie75 (Mar 14, 2012)

mantwi, Thanks for the video. In the next day of two I am going to have to go in search of beatings. Any suggestions?

Charlie


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

No need to 'press' anything.. the bearings all go on without much fuss.. the uppers can be tapped in quite easily, and when you tighten up the wheel retaining nut it pulls it all together. The lowers are slip fit, and again, tightening the two nuts pull it all together.. actually, the outside bearing on the pulley side will stick out a bit due to the spring washers and won't fully seat until the retaining nut is tightened. Just make sure every thing is clean and they will be easy to install.

Your pulley doesn't sound stock.. should have a set screw that engages the shaft. Post a picture. You might need to put a puller on it and -lightly- tension it, then whack the shaft with a mallet to break it loose.. it should just slip off, unless there is a lot of crud/rust on the shaft. Clean up the shaft and give it a little penetrating oil. Lightly tapping with a plastic mallet around the edges also helps break it loose.

As for paint, I used the suggestion on the Vintage Machinery Wiki and used Sherwin Williams "High Seas Gray. Unfortunately, they seem to have discontinued that color. Plenty of people have used Rustoleum without any problems.. light/dark machine gray seems to be the most popular. But it's your machine.. paint it whatever color you like.. it doesn't have to be an exact match.

Cheers,
Brad


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## Charlie75 (Mar 14, 2012)

Brad, I suspect your right about the pulley. Mine does not have a set screw as one would normally expect. I will snap a photo in the morning. I don't know if I ever mentioned it or not but I don't think the lower wheel is stock either. It seems to me like I remember the PO saying that for some reason he replaced one. They definately don't match. Probably doesn't make any difference. They are both 14".

If I can get that pulley off the back, and I am pretty sure I can, will the whole shaft with the wheel on it pull out of the front? The biggest problem I have right now is getting the nut off the lower wheel. (the nut that holds the wheel on I should have said.

I think I will probably paint it with Rustoleum. I was thinking purple. lol just kidding. I just soaked the shaft ends again with Gunk and WD40 so I will see what happened in the morning. Going to run over to NAPA as see if they might have or can get those bearings. when I used to restore John Deerre Tractors I used to pick up some bearing there.

Thanks Brad.

Charlie


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## Newbiewoodworker43 (Sep 18, 2011)

Hey Charlie,
In case NAPA does not have what you need, on the OWWM site they seem to recommend getting bearing from a place called Accurate Bearing. There is an instruction set in the Old Woodworking Machines Forum on what information you should have on hand when ordering.


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## Charlie75 (Mar 14, 2012)

Brad and all, First I finally broke the nut loose on the lower wheel. I am going to have to use a puller to get the pulley off as well as the wedge type retainer on the pulley end of the shaft. Here is a picture of what I have been talking about:









I also went to NAPA this morning and they had bearings that were the same size as those I had as samples. The only difference was that they are flat across both ends and the ones I removed appear to stick out on one side but that may be because I drove them out with a punch and I may have pushed one side out.

One final question, is it necessary to remove the wire retainers from the inside of the wheel? I can't see a reason why but I may be missing something.

Charlie


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Sounds like you got the wrong bearings.. 875xx's have an extended inner race (ie: they 'stick out on one side'). They probably sold you 6202's and 6204's which are the same size but don't have the extended inner race.

And no, you don't have to remove the retaining clips.. but it makes it easier to clean the wheel (particularly inside the hub) and it only takes a couple of seconds to remove/install them.

Cheers,
Brad


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## Charlie75 (Mar 14, 2012)

Thanks Brad. Can you point me to a source for the right bearings? NAPA said the found that exact number bearing in their computer and can order them. The down side is they are $40. a pop. It seems like I have seen others in this and other forums who claim to have bought the exact bearing for much less than what NAPA quoted. Glad I didn't put those two bearing in the wheel as I had planned.

I just got the bottom wheel off. I had to use a 3 leg puller to get it off. Which was does the bottom shaft pull out. Inside or outside. I haven't tried either yet.

Charlie


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

I always order from Accurate Bearing and they usually get delivered within 2-3 days. Last time I ordered them, about two years ago, it was around $50 for all six bearings including shipping. Read this post about ordering from them, then give Lynne a call and she will hook you up. NAPA is great when you need car parts.. but a dedicated bearing supplier will generally provide better quality bearings for less.

The lower shaft can come out either way..

Cheers,
Brad


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## Charlie75 (Mar 14, 2012)

Brad, thanks for the info. You said you ordered all six bearings? I know of four (two in the top wheel and two on the lower shaft. Where are the other two?

Can she match the bearings by the numbers on the ones I have? Any information you think will help would be appreciated. I plan on caller her tomorrow.

Oh, the last photo I enclosed to you had the pulley picture in it. Is that a non original belt pulley? It does not look like any of the pictures I have seen of these saws.

Charlie


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

*Where are the other two?*

LOL.. go back and re-read this thread starting with the first reply  And if your motor has bearings (not sleeves like mine had) and you want to replace them, might as well order all 8 at one time to save shipping. What numbers are on your bearings anyway?

And your pulley is definately not stock.. the original pulley (P/N #5800) is what should be on there and looks like:










The pulley on the BS should be an 8" diameter one.. and the one on the motor a 2.75" one.. if your motor has a different size, you might need a different sized pulley on the saw.. these things get changed a lot by previous owners, so you never know what you might wind up with.

Cheers,
Brad


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## Charlie75 (Mar 14, 2012)

Ok, I got it Brad. I use two different computers and the one I was looking at didn't have your original tear apart message with photos. It all clear to me know. I just have to pop out those lower bearings now.

There are numerous parts on this saw that aren't original that I am probably not going to try to make it original. The pulley sizes you mentioned are what I have to I will keep them. The upper wheel and the lower wheel don't match. Unless there is a reason to do other wise I'm leaving those alone too.

When I started out all I wanted was a fairly nice second saw. I will be using Rustoleum grey too. So the color won't be origianal either.

Reminds me of my John Deere garden tractor restoration days. I used to drive a few of the "correct at all costs" guys nuts. I just wanted reliable tractors. Just as all I want is a good reliable saw.

Charlie

EDIT Forgot to mention You have a great looking saw there. Beautifully done. Your saw table looks a bit like mine.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

No prolems.. there are a lot of old machines out there with creative alternatives to original; as long as it works like it's supposed to, which is why I mentioned the pulley diameters. Also, there have been saws found in the wild that had different wheels from the factory, so yours may or may not be a replacement. They used whatever they had on hand at the factory when building them, so when part designs changed, there is a good possibility that they used both designs, old and new, to build them until the old stock was depleated. If you are interested in the restoration of my saw, it's documented over at OWWM in this thread (the good stuff starts on the second page).

Cheers,
Brad

PS: Speaking of JD lawn tractors, about 8 years ago I bought a used JD 180 that was built in 1987 because they were so much more robust and sturdy than the stuff being built today.. just like my bandsaw. I've been thinking about restoring it, but I'm too busy using it to take it out of service for any length of time. Maybe some day. Between it and my JD 790 with LX-6 bush cutter, they are in constant use around here.


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## Charlie75 (Mar 14, 2012)

I am having a lot of trouble getting the lower bearings out. The uppers seemed to me to be easier. Any hints on removing these bearings?

Charlie


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## Charlie75 (Mar 14, 2012)

NEW DAY NEW PROBLEM…..oK people….I got the lower shaft and bearings out. Progress??? Not necessarily. The bearing on the pulley end came off the shaft with no problem. The bearing on the wheel end (opposite the pulley) slides about half way over the threads and will not come any further. I looked at the threads on the end of the shaft with a magnifying glass and noticed that the threads are about half flattened. There are some severe marks on the outside of the bearing that looks like the PO put those bearings on with a punch or something like that. I could probably drive the bearing off the shaft but will no doubt do serious damage to the threads on the shaft. Or I can attempt to break the bearing apart some how and remove it in pieces.

I did notice that these bearings appear to have been replaced. They are stamped "Japan" with a number that I can't read. The upper bearings were original with the correct part numbers.

I did notice that when I removed the nut on the wheel end of the shaft that I had to turn it off with a wrench all the way to the end. Either way the threads are damaged. If they were a normal thread there would be no problem. I would simply run a die over the threads and clean them up. These are fine threads and I don't know anyone who has one of those.
Any suggestions greatly appreciated. I am beginning to think my $50. investment was no bargain.

Charlie


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

Clean the threads up with a thread file. Don't break the bearing open to remove it. You will still have to deal with the inner race and it is small. Take the parts to someone with an arbor press and pay them to remove the old bearing and possible install the new bearings. Sounds like the last guy didn't and see what he has done to you. You are okay with the shaft. Get the new bearings installed and move forward. You are worrying about nits…nit picking.. and could be cutting wood.


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## flickney (Nov 26, 2014)

I have s delta wood band saw. And I too am having a terrible time getting the shaft out from the wheel, I've tried everything, Pullers (which broke a little of the wheel) Hammering it out, and nothing helps. they're really stuck together. any suggestions on how to separate the two?


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## flickney (Nov 26, 2014)

anyone know where I can purchase a lower wheel for my delta 28-245 wood band saw?


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## ElChe (Sep 28, 2014)

Flickney give this company a try. They sell good parts for delta handsaws including wheels
http://www.sawcenter.com/bandsaw_parts.htm


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## flickney (Nov 26, 2014)

Thanks Guys, I'm all set now. What I did was, I cut the shaft which the wheel was attached (stuck) on, with a hack saw and I was then able to drive (pound) the shaft through in the opposite direction. leaving the wheel in tact and in good shape, and the machine is running great again !!!Thanks for your advice and knowledge in this situation.


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## MSK56 (Jan 8, 2017)

I finally was able to remove the nut from the pulley side of the lower wheel axle. I have not been able to budge the top bearings at all. If I understand the instructions above, the inner spacer is moved to the side and the bearings are supposed to be tapped out. Is that correct and are the retainer clips supposed to stay in place until the bearings are out (I can see no way to remove the cap with he bearing in).

Thanks for any help at all.

Mike


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

> If I understand the instructions above, the inner spacer is moved to the side and the bearings are supposed to be tapped out. Is that correct and are the retainer clips supposed to stay in place until the bearings are out (I can see no way to remove the cap with he bearing in).


Go back and read the first reply in this thread.

Cheers,
Brad


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## MSK56 (Jan 8, 2017)

Brad:

I finally got the bearings off. Are the Part Numbers that you cited (87502 for the top and 87504 for the bottom) for the Delta version of the saw or also for the Rockwell version? This may be a really dumb question (I assumed the saws were virtually the same). The bearings on the bottom have P/N 6204 etched on the side; the top bearings have P/N 6202. I think I remember reading that 6204 and 6202 have the same inside and outside dimensions, although there was another feature (forgot what that was) which is somewhat different.

Thanks again for your help.

Mike


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Rockwell=Delta. They are one in the same and there is no difference between them.

Early models used 87xxx bearings with an extended inner race. Later models switched to the more common 62xx bearings.

Cheers,
Brad


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## Brums (Feb 9, 2017)

> If I understand the instructions above, the inner spacer is moved to the side and the bearings are supposed to be tapped out. Is that correct and are the retainer clips supposed to stay in place until the bearings are out (I can see no way to remove the cap with he bearing in).
> 
> Go back and read the first reply in this thread.
> 
> ...


I have read the instructions on removing the bearings from the top wheel. I see no retainer clips between bearings and spacer and moving the spacer to make space is not happening. Can you carefully without damaging the wheel just press out one of the bearing without doing damage to the clips. Is it possible to carefully hammer the bearing out with a wood dial pin? Any video available showing this? Thanks for any help you could give me. I have the lower wheel and shaft removed. Any suggestions on putting the gear and retainer ring back on shaft? Do you need to do this inside the casing or can you place the gear and retainer ring on the shaft before placing back in the casing? 
Thanks


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## onoitsmatt (Mar 7, 2015)

Clips are too thick. You'd never be able to tap them out. I used a socket head screwdriver. Put it in there so the tip is about halfway through then try pressing the spacer to one side by using a prying motion. Some not terribly helpful info here:

http://lumberjocks.com/onoitsmatt/blog/67146


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

There is only one way to remove the bearings… and you won't even see the clips until you remove at least one bearing. They come out one at a time from the opposite side, and a wood dowel or pin punch can be used to get them out pretty easily.

This might help - scroll down a bit to get to the good stuff:

rockwell 14 BS upper wheel bearing removal _HELP!

Cheers,
Brad


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## Brums (Feb 9, 2017)

> There is only one way to remove the bearings… and you won t even see the clips until you remove at least one bearing. They come out one at a time from the opposite side, and a wood dowel or pin punch can be used to get them out pretty easily.
> 
> This might help - scroll down a bit to get to the good stuff:
> 
> ...


THANKS for all the information.


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## Brums (Feb 9, 2017)

> There is only one way to remove the bearings… and you won t even see the clips until you remove at least one bearing. They come out one at a time from the opposite side, and a wood dowel or pin punch can be used to get them out pretty easily.
> 
> This might help - scroll down a bit to get to the good stuff:
> 
> ...


Sorry for all my ignorance in these things, but now that I have the bearings out of the top wheel (the pictures on the link you provided was worth a thousand words) and new bearings from Accurate ready to install, I was wondering if you had any suggestions installing the bearings. I have read that you can freeze the bearings and it will be easier to install in the top wheel. I know that the hub surface must be clean and keep the bearing straight when installing. I also have read that you only tap on outer race and never the inter race. I wish I had a hydraulic press but since that is not available, I was going to take a forstner bit and drill into some hardwood so the inter race will not contact the wood when placed over the bearing. Then tap bearing into the hub until contact with spring clip. On the lower bearing I was going to drill a hole in the wood (size of shaft) and again after putting the gear, retainer ring and spring inside the casting, use the wood and tap the bearings in place. Any other suggestions would be appreciated especially positioning the spring behind the back bearing.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

The bearings are all slip/interference fit, so nothing needs to be pressed in and you don't need any fancy setup. They can usually just be pressed in by hand, or perhaps with a few taps from a plastic faced mallet or wood block. The bottom outboard bearing (pulley side) should actually be a little loose so it is free to slide in and out. The finger washer sits behind that bearing and provides a preload. Everything will tighten up when you put on the wheel and shaft nuts and crank them down.

And yes, you can heat/cool the bearings and shafts to make them easier to install depending on the application, but that is really not needed in this case IMHO.

Cheers,
Brad


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## Brums (Feb 9, 2017)

I have the bearings replaced and ready to install the metal cutting unit on the back of the saw and bolt to the housing. There are two guide pins at the top of the metal cutting unit. Now before someone tells me, I should always take pictures of what I tearing down before actually tearing down - this is a good example of what happens when you do not. I should know better!
Ok with that our of the way, I really did not think there was an incorrect way to install the larger gear wheel on the lower shaft but now I am questioning myself. Does anyone have a diagram on the position of the large gear wheel on the lower shaft? (direction of hubs on shaft) When you measure the distance to the edge of the large gear wheel to the housing and then measure the metal cutting gear to the housing, it measures that the metal gear should completely engage when you crank the metal gear in to mess with the larger gear so you can cut metal. Problem, I can only get the lower portion of the metal cutting unit about 1/2" to the housing so I can bolt on. The only reason I can determine is that I stalled the large gear wheel incorrectly on the lower shaft. I really do not think that is the case but what is the trick to get the bottom of the metal cutting unit flush to the housing to bolt on? I am thinking that I need to bring the large gear closer to the housing (maybe about 1/8") so that the back of the metal gear housing when inserted clears the back of the large gear. Comments welcomed.


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## Brums (Feb 9, 2017)

I found this video for future reference for someone tearing down these bandsaws.





Found the problem - I had tighten down the shaft with the two nuts and after removing the nut on the shaft extending on front of the bandsaw, I was able to move the shaft enough to have clearance for the back of the metal gear housing to clear the gear when installed.


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## 1941Ford (May 21, 2018)

Any chance anyone can tell me how muck play should exist in the upper wheel hinge where the shaft slides into and is locked in place by a 4 inch pin? The bearings in the upper wheel are tight but there is play in the shaft not sure it really matters once the blade is put under tension but thought I should ask. If I hsve to I will get a small sleeve made to tithen up the fit if need be.

thoughts 
Bob


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

With the wheel removed, it should flop around like a dead fish. Tightening the wheel nut will pull it all into place and remove any slack.

Cheers,
Brad


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## 1941Ford (May 21, 2018)

Brad 
Thank you but we might be talking about two different things. The question I'm attempting to ask (and not very well) is where the shafts slides into the hole and is secured in place by a 4 inch long pin. The bearings ride on the shaft. Where the steel shaft fits into the cast aluminum piece has some play in it and that is what I'm after is to determine if I need to fit a very thin sleeve inside of the aluminum casting I will shoot you a pic tomorrow. Thks for the quick response. This saw was my grandfather's so I'm restoring it just because….. will use it as well

Bob


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

> The question I'm attempting to ask (and not very well) is where the shafts slides into the hole and is secured in place by a 4 inch long pin.


Know exactly what you are talking about.









The wheel shaft is a very loose fit in the tilting arm. It doesn't need to be a press fit. All slop will be removed once you install the wheel and tighten the wheel nut.

Cheers,
Brad


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

Ditto


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## 1941Ford (May 21, 2018)

Thanks guys I'm off today to get some paint mixed to match the color and locate some new bearings. It is in a million pieces but evert hinges clenched and a coat of WD40 "professional " on things that might rust. Oh new tires coming today I think.

I do have to get a new stand for it but that can be later money a bit tight for the next couple of mths.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

One thing I was always hung up on when refurbing was whether to go original paint or my own scheme. So I never got around to painting my stuff. So I said hell with it.










Sun shining on second saw. Both are same color.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

> It is in a million pieces …
> - 1941Ford


There isn't quite a million 










Cheers,
Brad


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

Bandsaw tires: Use a quick release or plastic faced clamp to clamp the tire to the wheel. Put a piece of round bar stock in a drill and ithe tire will pull itself on. I use a piece of 5/16" stock. Do a couple more revolutions to even out the tension in the tire and you're good to go. Takes about 15 min to change tires. That's including wire wheeling any existing glue off. If the is any.

You can heat them up to make them more pliable but I've never found it necessary.

Edit: I am a huge fan of 3n1 oil on anything threaded or not exposed to dust. Wax on anything that is.


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## Bonka (Apr 13, 2012)

I have rear the posts on wheel bearing removal on a 14'' Delta BS. I still have no idea on how to remove them. I tried using a socket but all it seemed to do is make an impression around the bearing. I plan on taking the wheels and new bearings to have someone do it. Where is a good place to order the bearings. I tried Accurate Bearing but I need the bearing nos. they said OWWM would have it. I tried to navigate that site but I do not possess the talent to find anything. Do I need anything besides the bearings?


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## Bonka (Apr 13, 2012)

I finally got the top bearings out. I re-read the directions several times and got the idea. I am now stummpted


















on removing the lower ones. Please see the photos. Please don't assume I know much, e.g., include steps others may take for granted


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

> I am now stummpted on removing the lower ones. Please see the photos.
> - Gerald Thompson`


Hey Jerry… the bearings for the upper wheel are inside the wheel itself, but not on the lower wheel… on the lower wheel, the bearings are on the drive shaft the wheel rides on. Removal of them from the wood cutting only model is pretty straight forward. The wood/metal model is a bit more complicated. Which one do you have?

Also - about the bearings. It's usually best to pull the ones you have before ordering replacements - so you know you are getting the right ones. Get the numbers off the side of them, and measure just to make sure. Keep in mind that early models used extended inner race bearings (875xx), later ones didn't (62xx).

Cheers,
Brad


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## Bonka (Apr 13, 2012)

Thanks for the reply. I assume too much. It made sense to me that the top and bottom would be the same. I took another look at it just after my cry for help and knew why I was never a candidate for rocket science.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

Calipers help. Measure OD ID and thickness. Some upper wheel bearings have an extended inner race. If you measure them and wonder why it's not a standard dimension it's because the vast majority of bearings are metric.


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## shinck (Feb 4, 2019)

I had some bearings frozen and getting rough on my Delta 28-275 bandsaw, so decided to replace them all, along with new guides, etc.
I finally got all the bearings out and new ones ordered. Thanks to this thread, things were a bit easier.

I do have a problem that I have not seen covered. I can't get the key out for the bottom wheel. I got the wheel nut off with a long wrench and hammer, as well as the wheel, but the key is stuck. I tried prying and using a center punch and hammer on one end. Very stuck. So I went down to buy a Woodruff key-should have looked at the parts list first and checked some parts suppliers. Because this is not just any old Woodruff key, it is called a Hi-Pro key. After checking online at 3 locations (eReplacement Parts, Tool Parts Direct, Tool Parts Pro) I got the same answer: discontinued, obsolete, no replacement. So I can get the key out, even if I have to use a Dremel tool, but I am not sure what to replace it with. The thickness is the same as a 1/8" square key I bought, but the diagram shows it to be much deeper and radiused.

Any ideas?

Scott


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## shinck (Feb 4, 2019)

The original Delta Hi-Pro key part # is 927011002603

After more searching:
I did find a Hi-Pro key part #927011002640 for some later bandsaws: 28-306, 28-348, 28-380. Don't know what the difference is. Hate to just start ordering parts in hopes I can grind one down to fit.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

The original part number for the 927-01-100-2603 was "SP-2603" (#705 Hi-Pro Key). The "SP" prefix indicates that it is a standard part that can be sourced from your local hardware store and you don't need to go through Delta or use a "Delta" branded part for replacement. You can find them all over… but a regular woodruff key can also be used if you can't find a hi-pro.

Here is a chart of common key sizes/numbers: Hi-Pro Woodruff Keys
And here is the specifics for the #705: Hi-Pro Key 5/32 x 7/8 CS ZC

Cheers,
Brad


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## shinck (Feb 4, 2019)

Brad, thanks for the excellent information.
While walking this morning, I had an idea. Back in the shop I picked out my cheapest wood chisel and used it to pound into and finally pry out the key. The key is fairly soft metal, but the chisel looks like crap; it will take a lot of grinding to get an edge back on it. Oh well. I use it mainly for scraping glue and other stuff off cast iron machine tables.

After getting the key out I polished both sides on a diamond stone until I could get it in and out with my fingers (snug fit, not sloppy). On to the bearings!

Scott


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## Zivosb (Jan 7, 2021)

Why I didnt read this thread earlier??!??
I couldnt remove the bearings from the upper wheel and instead of punching them little by little i took them to the press of tire shop nearby.
This is the result.
I hope the damage to the wheel bore is neglectable, but I cant find suitable replacement for the retaining clips.
Any idea? do i have to use retaining clip at all?


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

> I hope the damage to the wheel bore is neglectable, but I cant find suitable replacement for the retaining clips.
> Any idea? do i have to use retaining clip at all?


The newer part number for those clips is 426020790001 and is simply called a spring clip, but on older parts lists it was LBS-108 and labeled as "Spring Clip, 1-1/2" Diameter, 1/16" wire".

Several places claim to have them, including Renovo, but based on the picture, they appear to be just standard internal C-Clips, so you can probably find them at a well stocked hardware store for significantly cheaper. I do notice that they appear different than the ones I have in my 1950's era saws (see the picture I posted in the first response at the top of this thread), but that could have been a design change in newer saws in an attempt to save a few cents.

Cheers,
Brad


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## Zivosb (Jan 7, 2021)

Thank you for the quick reply.
I also noticed the difference between the original Delta/Rockwell schematic IPB and the picture of the replacement in the e-replacement site.
The schematic looks like the clip in your picture. It seems that mine are the same (from the remaining material and the mark they left in the wheel bore.
I tried to use the new version of the retaining clip (called internal retaining clip) but couldn't find size that can fit in the bore. (Tried Harbor freight kit with 12 different sizes and the local ACE).
I wonder if the are necessary at all. and how the machine will preform without them.
If someone know how to get the original form of the retaining clip please let me know.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

> I wonder if the are necessary at all. and how the machine will preform without them.


Probably run just fine, until the wheel falls off ;(
(Just Kidding!!!! DONT run it without the clips!)

Those clips are the only thing holding the bearings onto the wheel axially, as there are no shoulders machined into the wheel hub for the bearings to press against. Without the clips (or machined shoulders), it is just a straight bore all the way through the hub, which would allow the wheel to wander in and out without constraint.

The internal clips should work just fine I imagine. The old part number specs them at 1-1/2 (1.5) inches, so I guess you would need one around that size or a close metric equivalent (O.D. of the bearing is ~1.4 inch/35mm). IIRC, the harbor freight kit only goes up to a max of 1-1/4 (1.25) inches.

Cheers,
Brad


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## Zivosb (Jan 7, 2021)

Thank you for the information.
I will try to go forward with the size you provided.


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## Zivosb (Jan 7, 2021)

After few clips ordered and return, I was able find mm size that fits.
Now to the bearings.


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