# Best way to fix proud joint



## TravisN (Jan 15, 2019)

Hello all,

Total novice question here. I am working on my first piece of furniture for my wife. It is a side table with ambrosia maple base and walnut top. I have finished assembling the base and some of my joints are a little proud. I'm wondering what the best way to trim them flush would be. I have a basic chisel, loads of sandpaper (hand and ROS), and some power saws (mitre, table, and circular). Any recommendations?










Please don't pay too much attention to the joinery, like I said, I'm a beginner and this is my first piece of furniture. First time trying that joint. I made the mistake of cutting the joint before sanding, so what used to fit snug became a bit loose after sanding.

Thanks!


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

For me, sandpaper.


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## Unknowncraftsman (Jun 23, 2013)

Ya sandpaper. You could even glue some sand paper to a piece of wood and use it like a file. Or just use a file and then sandpaper to smooth it.


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## TravisN (Jan 15, 2019)

Perfect, that's what I'll do! Thanks!


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## WoodenDreams (Aug 23, 2018)

I would use a detail sander, this would help to sand to a straight edge.


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## EarlS (Dec 21, 2011)

I sand the joints after I glue them up using a ROS. That way I can sand everything flush and get rid of any glue drips that might be on the boards before finish is applied. Use 180 or 220 grit.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

If hand tools are something you'd like to explore someday, a block plane is the ideal tool for dressing that joint. Swiping the end grain with mineral spirits before planing softens it up a bit and makes it easier to plane. And sharp is everything with that operation. Short of that, a sanding block or rasp.


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## BlueRidgeDog (Jan 2, 2019)

This is common and in fact often planned as if you can't hit it dead on, you want the end grain portion to be proud (especially say with dovetail drawer construction) so you can level the joint. Typically you use a plane, but sandpaper will do the job.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

A plane is going to do a better job than sandpaper, although sandpaper will work.

BTW, if you plan on using hand tools, one of the first purchases should be a block plane and a #4 smoother.


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## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

To avoid nasty surprises (blow off), follow the advice given in this video, starting at 30'.

Although, if you are a newbie, I can not recommend enough looking at all the Paul Sellers videos.


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## TravisN (Jan 15, 2019)

> I would use a detail sander, this would help to sand to a straight edge.
> 
> - WoodenDreams


That is a new term for me. I will check that out as I definitely appreciate the help sanding a straight edge.


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## TravisN (Jan 15, 2019)

> If hand tools are something you d like to explore someday, a block plane is the ideal tool for dressing that joint. Swiping the end grain with mineral spirits before planing softens it up a bit and makes it easier to plane. And sharp is everything with that operation. Short of that, a sanding block or rasp.
> 
> - Smitty_Cabinetshop


I would like to get some skills and experience with hand tools. I'll have a look at block planes. Will a cheap big box store version do for something like this, or is it worth investing in higher quality as a beginner?


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## TravisN (Jan 15, 2019)

> A plane is going to do a better job than sandpaper, although sandpaper will work.
> 
> BTW, if you plan on using hand tools, one of the first purchases should be a block plane and a #4 smoother.
> 
> - rwe2156


Block plane and #4, got it. The hand planes are a bit intimidating as I haven't figured out their numbering system yet. They look mostly the same to me, though I know there are important differences.


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## TravisN (Jan 15, 2019)

> To avoid nasty surprises (blow off), follow the advice given in this video, starting at 30 .
> 
> Although, if you are a newbie, I can not recommend enough looking at all the Paul Sellers videos.
> 
> - Sylvain


I'll check that video out. I love the Paul Sellers videos! Before attempting any actual construction, I watched mesmerized for hours as he took a rough log and turned it into a straight and square workpiece all by hand. I didn't realize people still did that and it made me envious of the satisfaction he must get doing that by hand.


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## TravisN (Jan 15, 2019)

> This is common and in fact often planned as if you can t hit it dead on, you want the end grain portion to be proud (especially say with dovetail drawer construction) so you can level the joint. Typically you use a plane, but sandpaper will do the job.
> 
> - BlueRidgeDog


Right…that's exactly what I was going for. It was all planned….

Thanks for making me feel better


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## WoodenDreams (Aug 23, 2018)

I have seen the Paul Sellers u-tube videos before. I will say he demonstrates and explains the use of a chisel, cutting dovetails and the use of a plane on small boxes better than any of what I've seen.


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## TravisN (Jan 15, 2019)

> I have seen the Paul Sellers u-tube videos before. I will say he demonstrates and explains the use of a chisel, cutting dovetails and the use of a plane on small boxes better than any of what I ve seen.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thank you for the link, adding it my watchlist


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## Kilravn (Nov 15, 2018)

> If hand tools are something you d like to explore someday, a block plane is the ideal tool for dressing that joint. Swiping the end grain with mineral spirits before planing softens it up a bit and makes it easier to plane. And sharp is everything with that operation. Short of that, a sanding block or rasp.
> 
> - Smitty_Cabinetshop
> 
> ...


I would say that a big box store plane will work for what you're asking, but I would suggest looking at eBay, craigslist, and Facebook marketplace for old uses planes. I am a beginner myself, and I bought a new buck bros #4 plane when I first started. Since then, I have found I can get used old tools for cheaper than new, lesser quality tools. I've redone a Stanley low angle block plane, a Stanley #3, and am currently working on a wooden jack plane I found for $10. I almost enjoy bringing these tools back to working condition almost as much as an actual woodworking project. Everything I've learned, I've learned from YouTube. Mostly Paul Sellers. He has videos on cleaning up, setting up, and using hand planes. Another good channel is wood by wright. He is hands down my favorite hand tool woodworking you tuber, and I also think he is a member here on LJ's. I was intimidated at first. Get a whole bunch of wet/dry sandpaper, some wire brushes from HF, and jump into it. You won't be disappointed. You'd be surprised of what condition tools that you can being back to usable condition, and how beautiful they can turn out to be in the end. Even with beginner skills. I take great pride when I finish one of these planes that cost me 1/10th of what I could've bought a brand new crappy equivalent from the big box stores.


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## clin (Sep 3, 2015)

If this were my project, I'd use a trim router with the guide bearing on the bottom. That would trim it flush, then of course finish sanding.

I think you need a new tool and this is a great excuse to get one. A Dewalt DP611 is a great small router. A bit bigger than dedicated trim router, but very handy.

The problem with sanding is rounding the corner. Even if you attach sandpaper to a block and keep the block perfectly flat, the sandpaper tends to develop a bump or wave in it. This constantly grinds against the corner for any sanding strokes going outside toward the work. The exception is if you get the type of sand paper that glues to a block to ensure it stays flat.

Not saying it can't be done with sanding, but very possible you'll round the corner and end up adding a slight bevel.

As others said, a block plane is a great way also, just takes some care to make sure you stay flat and don't chip a corner or otherwise tear up the end grain piece. Blade needs to be sharp.


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## TravisN (Jan 15, 2019)

> I would say that a big box store plane will work for what you're asking, but I would suggest looking at eBay, craigslist, and Facebook marketplace for old uses planes. I am a beginner myself, and I bought a new buck bros #4 plane when I first started. Since then, I have found I can get used old tools for cheaper than new, lesser quality tools. I've redone a Stanley low angle block plane, a Stanley #3, and am currently working on a wooden jack plane I found for $10. I almost enjoy bringing these tools back to working condition almost as much as an actual woodworking project. Everything I've learned, I've learned from YouTube. Mostly Paul Sellers. He has videos on cleaning up, setting up, and using hand planes. Another good channel is wood by wright. He is hands down my favorite hand tool woodworking you tuber, and I also think he is a member here on LJ's. I was intimidated at first. Get a whole bunch of wet/dry sandpaper, some wire brushes from HF, and jump into it. You won't be disappointed. You'd be surprised of what condition tools that you can being back to usable condition, and how beautiful they can turn out to be in the end. Even with beginner skills. I take great pride when I finish one of these planes that cost me 1/10th of what I could've bought a brand new crappy equivalent from the big box stores.
> 
> - Brandon


I can see how that would be rewarding. I'll take a look and see what I can find


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## TravisN (Jan 15, 2019)

> If this were my project, I d use a trim router with the guide bearing on the bottom. That would trim it flush, then of course finish sanding.
> 
> I think you need a new tool and this is a great excuse to get one. A Dewalt DP611 is a great small router. A bit bigger than dedicated trim router, but very handy.
> 
> ...


I do have a trim and full size router. I hadn't thought of using that for something like this. My concern is I would get some tearout going across the end grain.


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## runswithscissors (Nov 8, 2012)

I'm surprised no one has mentioned the obvious solution for proud joints: humiliate them any way you can (sorry).


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## Kirk650 (May 8, 2016)

I'd be careful using the router. My approach would be to use a sharp block plane to get it close, then hand sand or use a ROS. Hand sanding allows for a bit more precision, if you use a sanding block.

If you have a few bucks to spend on a block plane, I favor the Veritas. If you live in central Texas, drive over and I'll give you one of my extra block planes, already sharpened.


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## TravisN (Jan 15, 2019)

> I'd be careful using the router. My approach would be to use a sharp block plane to get it close, then hand sand or use a ROS. Hand sanding allows for a bit more precision, if you use a sanding block.
> 
> If you have a few bucks to spend on a block plane, I favor the Veritas. If you live in central Texas, drive over and I'll give you one of my extra block planes, already sharpened.
> 
> - Kirk650


Very kind Kirk650! I lived in Dallas for bit but moved to Phoenix 1.5 years ago


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## OSU55 (Dec 14, 2012)

Block plane is the best way.

Here to learn about hand plane numbering, Stanleys at least - Patrick Leach's site. Scroll to the bottom of the page look for links to planes 1-8 and planes 60-70 to get started.

Refurbing old planes is great, Ive done 25 or so over the years. Have to know what to look for. As for a new box store block, my Stanley 12-960 low angle works as good as the old ones I have. New or old they will need tuning unless you go big $ for Veritas or LN. How to tune a plane


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## TravisN (Jan 15, 2019)

> I m surprised no one has mentioned the obvious solution for proud joints: humiliate them any way you can (sorry).
> 
> - runswithscissors


I thought it was funny


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## TravisN (Jan 15, 2019)

> Block plane is the best way.
> 
> Here to learn about hand plane numbering, Stanleys at least - Patrick Leach's site. Scroll to the bottom of the page look for links to planes 1-8 and planes 60-70 to get started.
> 
> ...


Thanks for this. I will bookmark those links as essential reading.


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## clin (Sep 3, 2015)

Concerning using a router. Clamp a scrap to the end where you complete the cut. This will prevent tear out.


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## TravisN (Jan 15, 2019)

> Concerning using a router. Clamp a scrap to the end where you complete the cut. This will prevent tear out.
> 
> - clin


Oh…right, thanks!


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## TravisN (Jan 15, 2019)

Hey guys, reviving this thread as the project has continued.

I tried sanding the joints and did get them so they are no longer proud. But, in my attempts at flattening via sanding, I introduced some curves. This is supposed to be the base for a table top and I can't place the top on it because the base is not flat. Here is a pic. I'm assuming the best way to flatten that would be some hand planes?


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