# Grizzly 17" Bandsaw



## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

Allen head screws with caps:


----------



## mdhills (Mar 12, 2011)

Ooo… I'm looking forward to seeing your milling setup. The extra hp is really helpful for anything with logs, but logs are still very heavy and awkward to get around on the bandsaw.


----------



## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

So far, and the plywood is cut for it, it's a mix of ideas, some stolen. For example, I like the log holding method of the spendy little jig sold by Stockroom Supply (https://stockroomsupply.com/), which would cost about a grand, for handling four and five foot logs.

The base is just plywood reinforced on both the front and back of the table, then supported by either a roller stand or just a piece designed to come off the base at "about" a 45.

Atop that will be the sled, which will track on it. The sled will have a 4" wide fence, the sole purpose of which is to hold the bars to secure the log, like the little ripper and large bandsaw mills do.

I'll sand and wax, liberally, the bed and bottom of the sled. IF that still leaves a lot of friction, I have a whole bunch of the ball type roller-ish supports that showed up on a tub I grabbed at a garage sale. Those, certainly, would reduce friction, but I don't want to raise more than I have to.

The bed will slide left and right for cut thicknesses. A heavy duty toggle, also a garage sale win, should allow me to do quick locks and releases. To that end, the fence will follow the existing fence rail and the back of the table, with about 1/8" slop. Stacked/Laminated pieces of plywood running parallel to the fence rail, and 90 off the sled, should do a fair job of squaring the sled.

Cross your fingers.


----------



## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

Because it's indicated you should not move the saw by the table, because that could throw it out of alignment, I'm going to swap the bolts holding the caster wheels for ones long enough to allow me to add 1/8" to 1/4" flat metal about 1-1/2" wide and about 16" long.

This will allow me to attach wood handles about 3' long, and to tie the two front wheels together.

When done, this should allow me to pull and push the saw, while keeping the two wheels aligned with each other.

Done right, it should look just fine.


----------



## Foghorn (Jan 30, 2020)

Great review and good looking saw Kelly. I have a Canwood brand I've had for about 15 years that looks very similar although it doesn't have a magnetic switch or foot brake. I dressed it up a while ago with some cast iron adjustment wheels I bought from Grizzly. They were easy to drill to size and add a set screw. It makes things feel smoother when raising or lowering the blade and looks cool too.

It supposedly takes 131 5/8" blades but 131 1/2" are available locally and work just fine. I usually use Viking ones but may have to try the Lenox sometime.


----------



## WoodAbuser (Dec 10, 2018)

Nice write-up on the bandsaw.

I have the G0513X2BF, not sure of the difference.

I haven't used mine extensively, but have been impressed with it on what I have done.
I have milled a few logs, probably 5 feet long, maybe 10 inch diameter.
I don't have a feed table, but tried to make something with roller stands.
With two people, the logs can be turned into boards.

I bought a Highland (?) 3/4" blade for log cutting, and it works OK, but I'd like to try a carbide blade.

I like your idea for the light; I need to add that.

My biggest suggestion for improvement would be to add an interlock switch to the tensioning lever, so you can't start the saw with the lever in the down (no tension) position. I've done that a couple times, and the blade tends to pop off the wheel, requiring re-installation. My solution so far is to leave the top door open when I de-tension the blade.

For a mobile base, I used a three-wheel Delta 50-345, which is not rated for this much weight.
It doesn't work well, and the saw is hard to move. I need to get a bigger base !


----------



## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

The interlock idea is excellent, and there is no good reason it could not be a factory standard on any saw with a tension release.

It would be nice to add an amber LED to the circuit (a couple micro switches, for the two legs?) to draw attention to the reason the saw isn't starting. Meanwhile, just the simple act of leaving the door open is a great idea.

On the light, check out the 60# magnets that sell 12 for $16.00 on Amazon. Opening and closing the door does not budge the light at all. I may put a thin coat of clear coat over them so they don't beat the paint on the door over time.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R8C4N43/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

The nice thing about bandsawbladesdirect.com is, you can order EXACTLY what you need, and at about half the cost of off the shelf blades. Of course, they have alternatives in widths, lengths, teeth per inch, type of teeth. . . .

P.S. The wheels did turn out nice.



> It supposedly takes 131 5/8" blades but 131 1/2" are available locally and work just fine. I usually use Viking ones but may have to try the Lenox sometime.
> 
> - Foghorn


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

I have the same saw without the brake. I have ordered Lennox blades from Spectrum Supply. I'lll have to check out your supplier. I also bought some direct from timberwolf when they had a 2 for 1 sale a couple months ago. I haven't used those yet.

It looks like SpectrumSupply.com is a bit cheaper than bandsawbladesdirect.com.

You might check it out.

-Paul


----------



## bigJohninvegas (May 25, 2014)

> [DUST COLLECTION]
> 
> Dust collection for cutting flat stock is nothing to write home about. I have my three horse, three feet away, pulling through a four inch hose Y d to pull at the top and the bottom ports. |
> 
> ...


I agree that the dust collection just below the table sucks. My guides are always full of dust. 
However the lower cabinet stays very clean on mine. I have seen where others have built collection boxes that attach at the lower guides. But I have never taken the time to figure that out on mine. I have ran a hose on top for the table. But I quit using it some time ago. Gets in the way, and is really more trouble than it was worth.

I really look forward to the sliding bed, and any other upgrades you come up with.



> Nice write-up on the bandsaw.
> 
> I have the G0513X2BF, not sure of the difference.
> 
> ...


That interlock switch would be a great idea. I have the Go513X2, I little less bells and whistles than yours. lol.
I too have turned the saw on with the blade tension off. Oops. 
So I made a little cover that goes over the power switch. Has a couple rare earth magnets that hold it in place. 
So when the tension is off, I place the cover over the switch to remind myself.

I use a Rockler all terrain mobile base on mine. works great.


----------



## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

The stock wheels on the base Grizzly recommended required two men and a boy to get the beast across my horse mats. I installed 4" wheels and it rolls like a breeze. The problem is, the wheels no longer clear the mount, so have to locked aimed and secured.

To keep steering, I'm going to swap the bolts for longer ones so I can run a couple bars up, which will have a push-pull handle at the top and mid and lower braces so both wheels will be directed like a kids wagon would. Also, this will keep me from using the table to move the saw.


----------



## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

As to dust at the bearings, I have a 15' hose off my Dust Deputy. For an experiment, I just laid it on top the lower cabinet, so it's just below the table and near the guide bearings. It fit well and a simple spring clamp to one of the ribs held it where I wanted it.

I ran a bunch of wood and there was no dust problem. Without it, as you know, they would have been buried in it.

Next step, as previously noted, is ad another Y and reduce it to run the hose and see if that works.


----------



## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

Love the simple solutions regarding the tension (rare earth magnets to block switch access or leaving the door open, as a flag). Fool proof with minimal effort.


----------



## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

MORE ON LOWER GUIDE BEARING DUST COLLECTION:

I forgot I have a hose with an adapter to run off the big dust collector. I test drove it cutting some walnut and it worked fine for collection too. As such, adding a port for a 1-1/2" hose in the Y or elbow should work fine for a tidy and permanent fix.


----------

