# Mounting a TV wall mount



## KidHorn (Nov 4, 2011)

I bought a TV wall mount 
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082806&p_id=8254&seq=1&format=2

For a 24'x16' room addition where construction hasn't started yet. I hired a general contractor. I plan on mounting a 65" TV that will weigh roughly 90-100 lbs. The mount can articulate up to 2' away from the wall.

The plans for the wall where the TV will mount are 2×4 studs spaced 16" OC. It's a load bearing 16' long exterior wall. The ceiling will be cathedral if it makes a difference.

I would guess everything will be OK, but so I can sleep better at night, I want something a little stronger than mounting on 2 side by side 2×4 wall studs. I have kids and I wouldn't be shocked if they pulled down on the TV while it was out 2'.

Ideally, I would like to use 4×4's, but it's not easy to find non-pressure treated 4×4's with a grade that meets code for weight bearing wall studs. I could double up 2×4's, but I'm not sure how much that would help since the force I'm worried about is torque and not compression. I would like to brace the 2×4's on the top and bottom since The most likely bad outcome is the 2×4 slips inward at the top and/or outward at the bottom. Are there any braces I can use that would meet code? I was thinking of screwing on a T brace on the front and the back of each 2×4 at the top and bottom. 4 for each 2×4. 8 total.

Any comments or suggestions are appreciated.


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## richgreer (Dec 25, 2009)

If you double up 2 2×4s and nail or screw them together they will be as strong (or stronger) than a 4×4.


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## CodyJames (Oct 24, 2011)

Duct tape works great….... Especially on kids!

I was thinking exactly what you were thinking, you can glue and screw the two 2×4's together, they would actually end up being stronger than 1 - 4×4(that's what I've always been told since I was a little kid, anyway.), then with the addition of a steel T plate tying the studs to the header and footer, with say 3/8's bolts? Unless you're dry walling, then those bolt heads might get in the way, unless you can compensate by denting the drywall a little to make room for the bolt heads when you put the dry wall up.


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

Put 2" x 6" blocking between the studs and bolt/screw the tv mount to the blocking. Ain't gonna go anywhere.
Bill


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## Sawkerf (Dec 31, 2009)

I agree with Bill White. I've done a few of these and it isn't rocket science. 2×6 or 2×8 blocking will hold any TV out there.

Since the room isn't built yet, put additional blocking anywhere else you think you might want to put the TV someday, and plan how you would run any wiring. Make good notes and take pictures before the drywall goes on. After the drwall is up, it gets much more complicated (and expensive).


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## childress (Sep 14, 2008)

What does your GC say? If you hired him you should trust him… and he should know. Also, your thinking too much about all of this. Double studs with blocks in between (in case you can't mount lags at 14&3/8") will be fine, just like Bill said above.

And "code" is dependent upon where you live. Again, your GC should know this….


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## KidHorn (Nov 4, 2011)

Those were some fast responses. And good ones too.

I'm running speaker wire, coax and ethernet in the room. Plus an electrician will run electrical. There's going to be many holes in the studs whan all is said and done.

The only reason I would prefer a single 4×4 over doubled 2×4's is a 4×4 has a much bigger target to screw into. With 2 2×4's I may put a screw in between them. Or too close to a side.

The blocking idea would certainly help. I would need to put in two of them. One to attach the top and one the bottom. But this wouldn't help with the studs pulling out at the top or bottom.

I was thinking instead of using a t bracing, what if I used some heavy duty fat (3" wide) L braces instead, put them in the interior of the wall on each lower and upper corner. That way, they can't interfear with drywall.


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## ClayandNancy (Feb 22, 2010)

If you use a doubled 2×4 blocking you'll be fine. Your mount is rated at 175 lbs, if your worried about the wall giving way, I'd be more concerned about the mount. Blocking installed properly will hold fine.


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## KidHorn (Nov 4, 2011)

I haven't spoken to my GC about it yet. Regardless of what he says, One way or another, the wall studs will be reinforced. I'm the one who has to live with the addition, not him. Even if it means getting out my drill and doing the work myself. I mainly want an idea of what I want before talking to him about it. Speding $30 on hardware and 30 minutes of effort to make the wall stronger can't hurt.

The issue isn't really a code issue. The inspectors aren't going to ask what will be hung on the wall. It's really more of an issue of the wall being straight in 10 years.


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## childress (Sep 14, 2008)

The wall won't move from a TV if the framing is done correctly and the studs won't "pull out".

You're over thinking it!


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## KidHorn (Nov 4, 2011)

I know it probably won't be an issue, but I would feel better if in addition to doubling up the 2×4's and with some blocking, I had 4 sets of something like this holding it in place. Just in case.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202033994/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

For under $30 and maybe 30 minutes of time, it's worth it to me.


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## childress (Sep 14, 2008)

I can guarantee you that if something was going to pull the studs out or the wall down those little brackets won't do a single thing. For structural strength, you need to use simpson strong tie stuff rated for these things.

something like a A34 or A35 with the proper nails will be what you want. Ask your GC…


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## KidHorn (Nov 4, 2011)

Simpson it is then.

Thanks.


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## Sawkerf (Dec 31, 2009)

KidHorn -
You can do whatever you want, but you're really overthinking this thing. Simple blocking between studs will easily handle any load you're planning for. The studs aren't going anywhere.

The most important thing is to know exactly where the blocking is located and that's a simple matter of measuring from the floor to the center of the block.

As far as holes in the studs for wires, your electrician will know how many and where without violating code.


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## KidHorn (Nov 4, 2011)

I'm not a builder but I do have a masters degree in mechanical engineering and used to teach statics for what it's worth. I don't have practice, but I do know theory very well.

The wall is mostly designed for vertical loads, not torque. The bracing between studs helps prevent the studs from bending in the middle or bowing due excessive compressive load. It won't help for the kind of load the TV will put on the wall. While there will be some increase in compressive load, the main load will in effect be pulling the studs out towards the interior of the room where the stand is connected at the top and pushing the studs towards the outside of the house at the point where the stand is connected at the bottom. it's creating a moment arm in the middle of the studs. Having 100 lbs extending 2' from the wall creates a pretty strong moment arm. I don't think this will be enough to snap a 2×4, but it may be enough to seperate the stud from the floor plate or ceiling plate. A couple of nails may not be enough to hold it in place. For this reason, what makes the most sense to me is to reinforce the top and bottom of the 2×4 to help it from moving back towards the outside at the bottom and forward towards the inside at the top.

Think about what would happen to if you tried to hold a 100 lb tv 2' in front of you, You would topple over on your face. Having support on your right or left side wouldn't help much, but having something keeping your head from falling forward and keeping your feet from sliding back would be a big help.


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## childress (Sep 14, 2008)

If anything gives or breaks it will be the TV mount first, and the lag bolts used second. Not the studs…. You know just enough to drive you crazy with over thinking this. Most people that replied here are more than likely professionals in the industry and are speaking from experience….


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## Sawkerf (Dec 31, 2009)

KidHorn -
I'm also a Mechanical Engineer (licensed in CA), as well as a GC (also licensed in CA).

Simple blocking to provide solid attachment for your TV mount is done every day and works like a champ. In fact, the hole spacing on your wall mount might be the 16" you need to go directly into the studs.

Relax and let your contractor do his/her job. That's what you're paying them for.


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## CodyJames (Oct 24, 2011)

Don't forget that there won't always be 100 pound tv's either. Each passing 6 months sees a new and lighter tv that's bigger in size and much cheaper.


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## MOJOE (Jun 13, 2009)

Kidhorn….civil engineer here…..if you use blocking between the studs, your rotational (moment) forces will affect your blocking more than your studs…..make sure you properly secure them to the studs and you will have no issues. I would suggest horizontal L-shaped blocking with the vertical face toward the inside of the room. I've also built a house….or 10, and this is the method we've always used. Also, trust you GC to an extent, but go with your gut…...the quality of work you receive might not always be that great…..like my old framing boss used to say, "when in doubt, built it stout"....can't really go wrong with that mentality!!!


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## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

Sorry I missed this one until today. The assurances that you do not need any additional blocking are 100% correct. Your mount attached to the studs per the instructions will securely hold more than the rated limit (usually +50%) and with the TV articulated out.

We install these all the time. It used to be ceiling fans, but these days it's flatscreens and tile backsplashes !
We did one last week, then three at one home a few weeks ago (two of the three were articulating just like yours). You are good to go even if your kids try to do chin ups on them (as long as they have sense enough to stop before they grow to 100 pounds or more). ;=)

Enjoy.


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