# Any suggestions on how to fill or finish these nail holes?



## macintosh (Aug 31, 2009)

We are currently building a dining room table from reclaimed barn wood. The wood is littered with nail holes, giving it just the right touch of personality and charm. We are not staining the wood, just simply finishing it with an oil-based polyurethane.

Should we fill the nail holes somehow to prevent food or beverage residue from getting into and being trapped in the nail holes? If you think it should be filled, what product would you recommend?

Its quite a challenge- wanting to preserve the wood and protect the nail holes from filling with debris - yet while not wanting to see any evidence that the holes were filled.

I would appreciate your thoughts and expertise. Many thanks, 
-the wife

Here's a sample…


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## Samyer (Sep 26, 2007)

I would consider epoxy, dyed or colored to match the hole coloring (assuming you are wanting to retain the black discoloration).


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## Kindlingmaker (Sep 29, 2008)

Yup, what Sam said…


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## okwoodshop (Sep 15, 2009)

i have been using crushed stone (calcite) and super glue to fill voids in some of my rocking chairs and other projects, add a little copper or brass shavings. the calcite is a soft stone and sands easily. you cant hide em might as well make em pop.


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## woodisit (Jul 11, 2009)

You might want to go with a cut off rust nail color? To stay in character


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## roman (Sep 28, 2007)

I put fine grind "pure" pigment, mixing lamp black and burnt umber into either two part auto body filler or just "Spackle" drywall compound.

Its the only "filler" that doesnt fade with time

I prefer the dark colour near black as that is what is stained around the lead nail holes

I might add another tweo cents…...........I use a sharp "V" carving chisel to widen the cracks, then fill them and sand the filler out purposely leaving an "indent" along the crack lines….....seems to add character and warmth


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## DaleM (Feb 18, 2009)

I would try just taping over or plugging the other side of the hole and flooding the holes and cracks with the same poly you are using for a finish. The first coat of course will soak in some and shrink some as it dries, and will take a couple days to dry but it should seal the wood up well as it dries. A second application (and possibly a third), flooded in to fill the holes again, should mostly fill it, with only a little shrinkage, then you should be able to finish the entire table.


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## northwoodsman (Feb 22, 2008)

I would leave them exactly the way they are. We have a large, expensive "name brand" table that was built rustic and distressed. It has larger voids and gaps than what yours appears to be. That's why we purchased it. I think it adds to the character. If you do get crumbs in the holes/gaps just use the hose on your vacuum to clean them out.


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## cmaxnavy (Dec 23, 2007)

I would use a clear epoxy. Naturally, you'll want to try all the ideas above on sacrificial woods before you decide. Good luck. Max


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

My $0.2, epoxy and lamp black.
However, roman's auto body filler sounds intriguing.


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## tblrxdave (May 20, 2009)

I've made plugs with "real wood" with good results, stained the head to match. I also have a harvest table mabe with reclaimed barn boards that was made back in the early 60's. The nail holes were left alone. Over time with periodic oiling the holes filled in nicely. Your choice.
Dave


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## WibblyPig (Jun 8, 2009)

The first idea that strikes me is old nails with a rusty head. Clinch them from the bottom so they don't move them finish right over them.

You may also want to consider some mini bowties so those cracks don't spread.


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

everything i make is from reclaimed wood..which means lots of nail holes…depending on the finish look you want…to preserve the reclaimed wood look..leave them alone…..if you dont want the open hole..use apoxy with a black coloring…..and some times i have taken sad dust and grind it down to a very fine dust in a coffee grinder..mix it in with some tightbond lll….....if you do that make sure you leave it high and not flush..as it will dry and give you a depression…..good luck with your solution…...grizzman


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

I'd vote clear epoxy too. They will crud up with food and dirt if you don't fill them.


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## Julian (Sep 30, 2008)

Another vote for pigment and epoxy. It's going to last the longest and be the most effective solution out of the others suggested. You need to fill those cracks if you want an easy to clean surface which is important when you have kids.


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## LesHastings (Jan 26, 2008)

Your using reclaimed wood! Why fill them at all? Make them part of the design.


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## SteveM (Dec 28, 2006)

Agree with most other posts. If you decide to fill with something clear, I've had luck using thick CA as a plug at the bottom of the hole then filling with 5 min epoxy (the WalMart brand works very well). A quick sand and you are ready for whatever top finish you choose.


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## MrHudon (Aug 11, 2009)

Leave the holes. Use a table cloth when eating so food doesn't fall in them.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Inlay a Dutchman for that rustic patched look.


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## dustyal (Nov 19, 2008)

hmmm, I think I agree with everyone here… I just did some holes using clear 5 min epoxy with black water color paste mixed in. Surprised me that it worked (water based pigment)... and I liked the result. I tipped some dowel rod into white glue, then jammed in some holes, snapped it off and flushed to the top. That worked okay, too.

Seems like it comes down to personal choice. For a table top… subjected to daily use and food, liquids, etc., I think I would fill with something. Any other piece and I would probably leave 'em alone…


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## DaneJ (Aug 13, 2009)

I kinda like Jims Idea of a dutchman, what about a dovetail dutchman over the hole, straddling the crack to make sure it does not open any more then fill crack with epoxy.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

The wax might work for casual tables, but dining table will most likely support hot pans.


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## ND2ELK (Jan 25, 2008)

I have used Fix Wood Patch for years. Comes in many different wood colors, dries hard, sands like wood and takes stain beautifully. Great Stuff! Unifire,Inc. 1-800-745-3282


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## CanadaJeff (Jul 8, 2008)

Agreed, grab the epoxy and go to it


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