# Cutting Small Pieces on a Table Saw



## chrisbryson (Jan 23, 2014)

So this is an embarrassing experience to share but I really believe mistakes should be shared so they can be learned from. I am new to wood working and I have tried to be very intentional about safety because the table saw I inherited just makes me nervous.

Last night I was in the middle of a project and I needed a small 2×2 inch block of fur. Basically, I tried to cut a 3×2 inch down to 2×2. I used a push stick and with my right hand I pushed the wood through the cut. Before I could even blink, the smaller, 1×2 inch block that was on the left side of the blade somehow bounced back into the blade and flew back over my head against the wall. I am so lucky this thing didn't hit me in the face. I was wearing safety glasses but that piece of wood was moving so I don't know if it would have even protected my eyes anyway.

So long story short, this was my first experience with kickback, and even though it was a really small piece of wood it was a scary feeling. Are there some golden rules I don't know about not cutting small pieces on a table saw without a jig? GRIPPER? Sled? Or do I need to use 2 push sticks and with my left hand get the small piece of wood on the left out of the way asap?

I have an old 113 craftsman table saw. Thanks and I hope this thread helps myself and others keep learning.


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## TiggerWood (Jan 1, 2014)

I have never had a cut off go flying on me. They usually just kick off to the side or stay right where the cut finished. I will say that when I do small rips, I stand on the right side of the saw and push with my left hand. Anything that goes flying I just let fly.


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## ChrisK (Dec 18, 2009)

There are sleds than can made to clamp small pieces down. I have had the same experience, fortunately no cuts. I will never again try pieces that small. When I can I will make smaller pieces from larger and make extra large pieces in case I need more stock.

The sleds work well. Search here for some ideas.


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## Dal300 (Aug 4, 2011)

It will generally be better to use a larger board to rip down into a smaller board and then cross cut the smaller piece into your blocks using the miter gauge.

I know how you feel about the thought of that chunk of wood coming at you at about the same velocity as a 200 grain 30.06 round.

Since I am left handed, I stand on the right side of the blade. SO far, unless I get something caught between the fence and the blade, I don't have a lot of problem with kickback.


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## johnintecumseh (Jan 16, 2009)

Chris, first ALWAYS stand to the side of the blade. wear a shield. for small pieces …use a bigger one with the small one taped to it…this idea is from Malcolm Tibbetts ...look at tahoe turner or his turning book ..best jig ever. keep smiling John


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## jmartel (Jul 6, 2012)

For something that size, you can make a sled with a hold-down, but I would honestly make a cross-cutting jig to use with a handsaw. Something like that will take 30 seconds to cut through, and no danger of hurting yourself unless the saw slips.


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

IMO, a sled is a must-have item for cutting small pieces like that on the table saw. Not only is it safer, but it also makes that kind of cut quick and easy.

That being said, I also agree with TiggerWood. I never position my body directly behind the blade.


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## chrisbryson (Jan 23, 2014)

Thanks all. I will have to look at the sled designs more thoroughly and also cut small pieces off bigger pieces using the miter saw when I can. Using a handsaw is a really good idea.

Being a right-hander makes guiding all the cuts with my left hand really uncomfortable. So, I feel like I am either standing in the line of kickback, leaning to the right, trying to use my right hand to guide the wood … or using my left hand and feeling very awkward.


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## ColonelTravis (Mar 19, 2013)

Were you using a miter gauge? Not asking as criticism, just asking because I wasn't sure.


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## jmartel (Jul 6, 2012)

Here's what I'm talking about. Make a bench hook.


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## TiggerWood (Jan 1, 2014)

Oh, I think someone should mention that if the piece you are pushing is kicked back, your hand will move towards the blade, almost like it was being pulled into it. I use extra long wooden push sticks.


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## chrisbryson (Jan 23, 2014)

Sorry folks I was pulled away from the computer for a bit. I was using a 16-18 inch long shop made push stick. The piece I cut went through with no problems. The cut-off piece was the one that flew back. Would this have been different if I used the miter gauge?


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## Pimzedd (Jan 22, 2007)

I agree that a sled would do the job. However, I must say that I don't have a sled.

I would have used my miter guage with a sacrificial board either clamped or screwed to it. The pieces can still be caught so you have to make sure they don't come in contact with the blade.

Those little pieces can really go flying if they come in contact with the blade. Probably would scare you more than they would do real harm if they hit you. Getting scared with fingers around spinning blades in not a good idea.


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## retfr8flyr (Oct 30, 2013)

That's one of the many things I like about my Grr-Ripper push block, it holds the off cut as well, when making small cuts.


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

I am having some trouble picturing this. He had a 3×2 inch piece and was cutting it down to 2×2 inch essentially like ripping it. He was not using a miter gauge and only a push stick. He is lucky that both pieces did not come back at him no matter where he was standing.

I think that he is extremely lucky and needs to stop and rethink the use of the table saw. The ideas given before such as a miter gauge with an extra fence on it or a sled are an absolute must. I hope that he will do one or both of these things before he suffers a bad injury.


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## Planeman40 (Nov 3, 2010)

The Internet is an amazing resource. Use it! Try searching the term "How to cut small pieces of wood on a table saw?". There are some great answers.

To do these "question searches" on the Internet, you need to know haw to set up the question so the search engine can understand it. Begin your question with "How to" so the search engine knows that is the type of answer you want. End it with a "?" question mark to let the search engine know it is being asked a question.

Planeman


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## higtron (Jan 26, 2011)

Was the piece that flew out between the blade and, the fence? If yes you need a push block that made for small rips


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## Yonak (Mar 27, 2014)

Chris, this is prone to happen from time to time but, from my experience, it's pretty rare. Now that it has happened to you I'm willing to bet that you'll always be aware of it and it'll never happen again. It's easy to always be aware of the dangers and head them off before they have a chance of occuring. In this case, be ready to push any small piece away before it can be in a position to be kicked by the blade.

I have a regular job for which I must trim off pretty small pieces using the table saw. I've had pieces kick out as you describe, but never one as big as 1 X 2 although, obviously, not impossible. It tends to vibrate close to the front of the blade then is kicked (squeezed, if you will) by the downward motion of the blade. I can see when a scrap can get close to that position and I never let it get there.


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## MarcRochkind (Jun 22, 2014)

As CharlieM1958 said, you want a crosscut sled, which will take only an hour or two to make. In addition to its obvious use for crosscutting, it's also for cutting small pieces. I routed T-slots in mine so I can easily hold down small pieces. For such small pieces, it doesn't matter whether you're ripping or crosscutting-the sled still woks fine.

With the piece held down, there's no need for any part of your body to be anywhere within a foot of the blade. You can stand well to the left or right of the sled (whichever side the power switch is on), and simply push the sled with one hand.

As the blade pokes up into the sled, there's no need for a zero-clearance insert, either.


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## SCOTSMAN (Aug 1, 2008)

Your small block of wood is getting caught between the blade and the fence and the result is it will then with the aid of a very powerful blade which is spinning towards you get jammed so tight it will be then propelled in your direction.First off get into the habit of standing slightly off to the side when cutting small pieces but more importantly always have the smaller pieces fall off to the oposite side from the fence.I.e the larger pieces should pass by the fence allowing the smaller thinner stock simply to fall of to the side of the fence not disturbed or caught between the fence and the blade.
In you place however you were not cutting thin slivers of wood but small blocks for this you need to make a sacrificial smaller fence which fits over the normal fence but ( important) does not extend any further than the beginning of the blade.So as long as this smaller overlain fence is not in front of the blade but just coming up to it you will create a larger space between the original fence and the blocks of wood which will float harmlessly along with plenty of freedom between these blocks and the original fence.Push these off caually to the back and right side of the blade to be collected when the blade is switched off and no longer turning.In other words you create a gap where the wood can move along when cut not being forced tightly against the spinning blade look up short fence for cutting small stock on youtube and you will surely see what I am describing in action. Alistair


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