# Adventures in Japanning



## JayT (May 6, 2012)

*Background, research & supplies.*

OK, first attempt at a blog, so please bear with me.

This blog series is my journey of trying to replicate the japanning process used on many tools, especially hand planes, for over a century. It will include some abject failures, as well as what was found to work for me.

This blog is not a commentary on how someone else might choose to finish their planes when doing a restoration and I am not necessarily advocating japanning over any other finish. There are many people on this site that are much more experienced and talented than me that use other methods. The blog is more a result of my curiosity as to how the tools were originally finished and to see if I could come close to replicating that.

A little backstory. After getting bit by the hand plane bug this summer, I started trying to do some restorations. The first couple were simple clean-up, tune up jobs, but soon I ran into one that needed completely stripped. Following and researching how several other LJ's perform restorations, I decided to try Rustoleum Hammered Black spray paint. This was the result.










It looks good and is very functional, but is so obviously not that similar to the original finish. The color is more charcoal gray than black.










Doing some more looking around, I found that others had success with Duplicolor Ford Semi-Gloss Black, but that the original finish was something called japanning. I had never heard of this finish, so started to dig to see what that really was and if it would be possible for me to reproduce it in my little shop and on a budget. A bit of research showed that japanning on Stanley tools in particular was a finish made from gilsonite, a tar solid found in the western US and commonly known as asphaltum.

Even more digging/searching through Google showed that I could purchase gilsonite in powdered form or as liquid asphaltum from Dick Blick Art Supplies for a reasonable amount. (as opposed to the $60 quart of japanning found on another site. I'm sure it is great stuff, but I wasn't going to spend that much right now) I ordered one pint and set out accumulating the other materials.










In addition to the asphaltum, I bought some xylol for thinner/brush cleaner. Xylol is an excellent solvent for heavy solids and is the solvent used in the liquid asphaltum, so there would be no compatibility issues. Turpentine would probably work, too, but as I had neither on hand and they are about the same price, xylol it was. Artist brushes for applying the finish and glass jars-one for cleaning the brushes and the other for blending the finish.

Next installment: Testing different finishes using the asphaltum and initial applications.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

JayT said:


> *Background, research & supplies.*
> 
> OK, first attempt at a blog, so please bear with me.
> 
> ...


Oh, I like this! Thanks for starting the blog, Jay!


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## ArlinEastman (May 22, 2011)

JayT said:


> *Background, research & supplies.*
> 
> OK, first attempt at a blog, so please bear with me.
> 
> ...


Jeff

Thank you so much for the info. I am going to use it and as you mentioned $60 is quite expensive and your way is alot less.

Just one suggestion buddy. Before and After pictures and block the glare so I can see the plane better and have all the parts off of the plane for the first picture.

Thanks


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

JayT said:


> *Background, research & supplies.*
> 
> OK, first attempt at a blog, so please bear with me.
> 
> ...


Arlin,

Yep, there is quite a difference in price. Shipping was almost the exact same amount as the asphaltum itself, but that still made it 1/4 the price of the other.

Before and after of the sargent are in both the HPOYD and the Show the Restoration threads. I didn't realize the glare was so bad until posting on those, that is why the second photo, to better show the actual color of the Hammered Black paint.


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## derosa (Aug 21, 2010)

JayT said:


> *Background, research & supplies.*
> 
> OK, first attempt at a blog, so please bear with me.
> 
> ...


Definitely following this, I've a 112 that I've seriously slacked off on refinishing and it badly needs new japanning.


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## LukieB (Jan 8, 2012)

JayT said:


> *Background, research & supplies.*
> 
> OK, first attempt at a blog, so please bear with me.
> 
> ...


Looking forward to the rest of the series, been using the Ford semi-gloss. Pretty happy with how they've turned out, but curious to see your results and process.


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## Arminius (Dec 27, 2007)

JayT said:


> *Background, research & supplies.*
> 
> OK, first attempt at a blog, so please bear with me.
> 
> ...


From limited experience..

i) turpentine works fine.

ii) unless you are an authenticity nut, Ford Semi-Gloss Black gets you awfully close for a tiny fraction of the effort.


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

JayT said:


> *Background, research & supplies.*
> 
> OK, first attempt at a blog, so please bear with me.
> 
> ...


JayT you have my attention. Carry on.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

JayT said:


> *Background, research & supplies.*
> 
> OK, first attempt at a blog, so please bear with me.
> 
> ...


Interesting for sure. Have you used Duplicolor Ford Semi-Gloss Black? I'd love to see a side by side comparison. I know if they are side by side, I can tell the differnece between original japanning and the Duplicolor Ford Semi-Gloss Black, but it takes close examination. Things like hammer black I can tell from pictures. It will be interesting how this compares to the original, because even vintage differences can have a different look.

As other stated, thanks for sharing this Jay.


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## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

JayT said:


> *Background, research & supplies.*
> 
> OK, first attempt at a blog, so please bear with me.
> 
> ...


Jay, thanks for sharing your recipe…results look awesome! Very nice job on the restore…and a nice job on your first blog! 
.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

JayT said:


> *Background, research & supplies.*
> 
> OK, first attempt at a blog, so please bear with me.
> 
> ...


Found this: http://archive.org/details/practicaljapanni00misk
And: http://www.woodcentral.com/articles/handtools/articles_117.shtml
More: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/archive/index.php/t-117299.html?s=416384fb2151fbf7781179cf112bed39
Hope it is fine.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

JayT said:


> *Background, research & supplies.*
> 
> OK, first attempt at a blog, so please bear with me.
> 
> ...


Can´t wait to follow this blog.
Thank you for sharing with the rest of us.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

JayT said:


> *Background, research & supplies.*
> 
> OK, first attempt at a blog, so please bear with me.
> 
> ...


Don, no I haven't tried the Duplicolor, I got intrigued by trying to recreate the japanning before going to that step. You know how it is, something strikes your fancy and you just have to work it out. I'll get a can and do a side by side before the end of the blog.

Mads, thanks for the links, they are hard to come by. One of the reasons I wanted to do the blog was because of the lack of readily available information. Those links will be a great help in further refining what I have been doing.


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

*Testing blends and first attempt*

The next step in trying to come up with an acceptable japanning recipe/method was to test some blends of finishes. Internet research turned up a few possible recipes, mostly involving powdered asphaltum/gilsonite dissolved in a combination of turpentine and BLO &/or spar varnish. The woodcentral link Mafe posted in the first installment has one and fellow LJ Derek Cohen has mentioned a similar recipe he uses. Well, the reason I went with the liquid asphaltum was that it takes care of the intial step of dissolving the powder by having it in the xylol solution. You could just as easily purchase powdered gilsonite and dissolve it yourself over the course of a couple of days.

In testing, I tried adding various amounts of spar varnish to the asphaltum, painting on a plane bed and letting it dry overnight. Here is one such test comparing a 2:1 asphaltum to varnish blend with the pure liquid asphaltum.










This ended up being the ratio for my first attempts. The addtion of the varnish helps thin the mixture a bit so that it is easier to apply and flows much better and I also found it seems to slightly lengthen the intial work time so that the solvent doesn't flash out before allowing the japanning to self level. If you thin the mixture too much, it doesn't coat the vertical surfaces well and will sag before setting up. (Hint: that would be one of the abject failures mentioned earlier)

Before continuing further, I need to ask for some leniency and understanding. I didn't set out to write a blog when first attempting to figure out this process, so didn't do a good job of documenting & photographing everything along the way. For the pictures I have, you will see several different planes used. These are all planes that have gone through my japanning process and I have tried to pick photos that best show what was going on at various stages.

Carrying on. After working with several different asphaltum to varnish ratios, ranging from 1:1 to 4:1, I settled on 2:1 as the best combination of coverage, flow and appearance. I used semi-gloss varnish to try to tone down the high sheen of the asphaltum. My test bed was a Bedrock 605 that needed a complete makeover, so it was masked off and a light coat of japanning applied. Here it is part way through laying on the first coat.










You will notice that the brush is not the same as those pictured in the first blog installment. I first used a flat brush to try and get into the nooks, crannies and corners of the plane, this thinking was to change later. In spite of the asphaltum looking black in the can and jar, it is really a dark brown. If you look again at the picture of the test, you may be able to see that the thinned finish has a slight brown tinge, while the undiluted asphaltum is nearly black. The light coat that was applied really shows the actual brown color.










The plane was set aside to dry overnight before a second coat.

Before you jump right in and follow these steps, please note that this plane got completely stripped and redone again a bit later. It turned out much better the second time, using things learned from this first try.

We'll leave it there for now and pick up the next installment with more coats, application errors and attempts at curing the finish.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

JayT said:


> *Testing blends and first attempt*
> 
> The next step in trying to come up with an acceptable japanning recipe/method was to test some blends of finishes. Internet research turned up a few possible recipes, mostly involving powdered asphaltum/gilsonite dissolved in a combination of turpentine and BLO &/or spar varnish. The woodcentral link Mafe posted in the first installment has one and fellow LJ Derek Cohen has mentioned a similar recipe he uses. Well, the reason I went with the liquid asphaltum was that it takes care of the intial step of dissolving the powder by having it in the xylol solution. You could just as easily purchase powdered gilsonite and dissolve it yourself over the course of a couple of days.
> 
> ...


So interesting Jay!
I eat the words and your experience like candy.
Thanks.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

JayT said:


> *Testing blends and first attempt*
> 
> The next step in trying to come up with an acceptable japanning recipe/method was to test some blends of finishes. Internet research turned up a few possible recipes, mostly involving powdered asphaltum/gilsonite dissolved in a combination of turpentine and BLO &/or spar varnish. The woodcentral link Mafe posted in the first installment has one and fellow LJ Derek Cohen has mentioned a similar recipe he uses. Well, the reason I went with the liquid asphaltum was that it takes care of the intial step of dissolving the powder by having it in the xylol solution. You could just as easily purchase powdered gilsonite and dissolve it yourself over the course of a couple of days.
> 
> ...


This has me at the edge of my seat!


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

JayT said:


> *Testing blends and first attempt*
> 
> The next step in trying to come up with an acceptable japanning recipe/method was to test some blends of finishes. Internet research turned up a few possible recipes, mostly involving powdered asphaltum/gilsonite dissolved in a combination of turpentine and BLO &/or spar varnish. The woodcentral link Mafe posted in the first installment has one and fellow LJ Derek Cohen has mentioned a similar recipe he uses. Well, the reason I went with the liquid asphaltum was that it takes care of the intial step of dissolving the powder by having it in the xylol solution. You could just as easily purchase powdered gilsonite and dissolve it yourself over the course of a couple of days.
> 
> ...


trying to resist the temptation to order the stuff and follow along. Just because I can!


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## grfrazee (Jul 17, 2012)

JayT said:


> *Testing blends and first attempt*
> 
> The next step in trying to come up with an acceptable japanning recipe/method was to test some blends of finishes. Internet research turned up a few possible recipes, mostly involving powdered asphaltum/gilsonite dissolved in a combination of turpentine and BLO &/or spar varnish. The woodcentral link Mafe posted in the first installment has one and fellow LJ Derek Cohen has mentioned a similar recipe he uses. Well, the reason I went with the liquid asphaltum was that it takes care of the intial step of dissolving the powder by having it in the xylol solution. You could just as easily purchase powdered gilsonite and dissolve it yourself over the course of a couple of days.
> 
> ...


I'm really looking forward to the results of your testing. Can't wait for more updates!


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

*Let's welcome Mr. Murphy (and his law)*

When we left off, the first coat of Japanning had been applied and allowed to cure. The next day, here is what I had.










Even given 24 hours in a very hot and dry Kansas summer, the finish was still a bit tacky. The few internet posts I had found said that you needed to either bake the finish or allow it to cure 30 days or so. A couple also mentioned applying two coats before doing either of those, so I pressed on with another light coat and let it set overnight.

In order to try and help the curing process, I decided to leave the plane outside in the sun the next day for several hours on a 100 degree afternoon. The hope was that I could cut the 30 day cure time down quite a bit. While the resulting finish was more cured than just air drying inside the shop, I ran into a new issue-brush marks!

If you look at the above picture, you can see the slight brush marks from the first coat. Instead of the second coat filling and leveling those out, as I had hoped it would, it amplified them. No photo of those. I was so disgusted that it didn't even cross my mind to take a picture.

This poor experience led to several attempts to redo the process that the only thing they accomplished was to allow Murphy's law to intervene. Using another plane, I tried thinning the mix to get better flow. That was accomplished, but it also resulted in sag and bubbling around any vertical surface. I tried allowing the plane to cure in the sun after every coat, but still ended up with brush marks and a finish that, while not tacky any longer, also wasn't as hard as necessary. A couple other ideas also backfired, so finally it was time to for:










I stripped the two planes I had been using, put everything on the workbench and just had to walk away for a few days before starting over.


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## sikrap (Mar 15, 2009)

JayT said:


> *Let's welcome Mr. Murphy (and his law)*
> 
> When we left off, the first coat of Japanning had been applied and allowed to cure. The next day, here is what I had.
> 
> ...


This is an awesome thread. Please don't give up!!


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## Dcase (Jul 7, 2010)

JayT said:


> *Let's welcome Mr. Murphy (and his law)*
> 
> When we left off, the first coat of Japanning had been applied and allowed to cure. The next day, here is what I had.
> 
> ...


Try and stay positive, a few days away should do you good. I have never done japanning on planes so I cant really offer any advice… One thought or question rather, did you sand between coats at all? I would think if you sanded the japanning after the first coat it should smooth the brush marks out a bit. Once you build up the finish coats the brush marks should become less and less noticeable if you sand after every coat… I have never worked with the stuff though so thats only a thought..


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

JayT said:


> *Let's welcome Mr. Murphy (and his law)*
> 
> When we left off, the first coat of Japanning had been applied and allowed to cure. The next day, here is what I had.
> 
> ...


Oh please stick with it JayT. It sounds like you're saving me an awful lot of work


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

JayT said:


> *Let's welcome Mr. Murphy (and his law)*
> 
> When we left off, the first coat of Japanning had been applied and allowed to cure. The next day, here is what I had.
> 
> ...


Not to worry, guys. I didn't set out to write a blog, so wasn't posting as I was working. This part of the process was actually in July and August. I have a difficult time giving up on anything until I conquer or at least understand it better. Spoiler alert-there is a happy ending 

Dan, the reason I didn't sand between coats here was that the japanning mixture was too tacky. Even with "baking" it in the Kansas summer sun, it wasn't hard enough to sand. Once I started over, there were several changes that made the end result turn out much better.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

JayT said:


> *Let's welcome Mr. Murphy (and his law)*
> 
> When we left off, the first coat of Japanning had been applied and allowed to cure. The next day, here is what I had.
> 
> ...


Hmmmm bad luck for now…
I am back looking now, just been much to busy in reallife…
So wonderful you share your experince like this.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

*Back at square one*

Several days away from the japanning project didn't really help. There were too many times in those days that my mind returned to the problem and just wouldn't leave it alone, but no solutions were forthcoming. Finally, it took walking out to the shop again, looking at everything on the bench and BAM . . . there it was!

Remember this?










The plane I used when testing the finish blends didn't have any brush marks, and it was the same formula that I had first used that didn't sag.

What was the difference? When testing the blends, I used a cheap flux/glue brush, not the artist's brush. That resulted in more than a few bristles in the test finishes, but it didn't matter for that purpose. Could it be that the flat brush was applying the finish too thin and it was setting up too fast to self level? A quick trip back to Hobby Lobby to see what else might be available and I purchased an inexpensive set that included two mop brushes,.










These had a thicker head than the flat brush I started with, thicker even than the glue brush, but with much finer bristles.

With a renewed sense of purpose, it was time to try again. This time I used a old Bailey No 5 (I believe it is a type 9) that was picked up at an auction in a lot with another 605 I actually wanted for the parts. It had been broken in the past, so one side was brazed and two corners were still chipped, but it had almost no original japanning. Using this plane would allow me to work on the japanning without fear of doing any additional damage to the Bedrocks.










After wire brushing off the little bit of remaining original japanning, the Bailey was wiped down with xylol to have a clean bed. By the time I had a paint brush out and the jar of japanning open, the solvent had dried and so a first coat was laid on-this time using a mop brush instead of the flat brush.










The result was a much thicker first coat than my original attempt, but within a short time of applying the japanning, there were no brush marks!










Encouraged by this, I left the plane overnight and mentally attacked the problem of getting a good cure on the finish.


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## sikrap (Mar 15, 2009)

JayT said:


> *Back at square one*
> 
> Several days away from the japanning project didn't really help. There were too many times in those days that my mind returned to the problem and just wouldn't leave it alone, but no solutions were forthcoming. Finally, it took walking out to the shop again, looking at everything on the bench and BAM . . . there it was!
> 
> ...


This really is fascinating. I've stayed away from trying to rejapan because I was told that I needed to bake the planes to cure the asphaltum. I can't wait to see how this finally works out.


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

JayT said:


> *Back at square one*
> 
> Several days away from the japanning project didn't really help. There were too many times in those days that my mind returned to the problem and just wouldn't leave it alone, but no solutions were forthcoming. Finally, it took walking out to the shop again, looking at everything on the bench and BAM . . . there it was!
> 
> ...


interresting blogserie 
I believe you when it comes to the brushmarks …. its the same when painting with different 
kind of paint like water based , acrylic based or oilbased paints you have to use different pensels 
if you want a good result …... oilbased paint like pensels made of natural hairs 
what do you have in the jar to Japanning the tools

Dennis

never mind just read the second blog


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

JayT said:


> *Back at square one*
> 
> Several days away from the japanning project didn't really help. There were too many times in those days that my mind returned to the problem and just wouldn't leave it alone, but no solutions were forthcoming. Finally, it took walking out to the shop again, looking at everything on the bench and BAM . . . there it was!
> 
> ...


I paint watercolors and know the importance of a good brush, so i follow you here.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

*Progress, finally!*

Now satisfied with how the first coat of japanning laid down, I needed to figure out how to get a better cure. Attempts to leave the plane out in direct sunlight on a hot summer day didn't do quite a good enough job. Several websites had mentioned baking the plane, but there was no way I was going to use the kitchen stove-for one it was brand new this summer when we remodeled the kitchen and two, I would like to continue to sleep in the same bed as my wife, not the doghouse.

Well, I did have another "oven" outside, so decided to try it. How do you like your #5, medium rare?










I turned the center burner on low to see what temps would result. Checking the thermometer after about 15 minutes showed it holding a temperature of just over 250 degrees, that should be fine. I was a little worried about putting a plane that may give off flammable fumes in a gas grill, but figured that there is enough holes in a grill (vs. the gas range in the kitchen) to keep a steady supply of fresh air. The plane was set on the grate and left for a couple of hours. Checking on it after 30 minutes showed fumes coming off and a slight odor. Not enough to be really annoying, but I wouldn't want to use the range and have SWMBO come home and smell it.

After turning off the grill and allowing the plane to cool, I checked the finish and found a very hard, slightly shiny result. The finish was then scuffed with 400 grit sandpaper, wiped down with a paper towel dipped in xylol to remove sanding dust and a second coat of japanning applied.




























Finally feels like real progress.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

JayT said:


> *Progress, finally!*
> 
> Now satisfied with how the first coat of japanning laid down, I needed to figure out how to get a better cure. Attempts to leave the plane out in direct sunlight on a hot summer day didn't do quite a good enough job. Several websites had mentioned baking the plane, but there was no way I was going to use the kitchen stove-for one it was brand new this summer when we remodeled the kitchen and two, I would like to continue to sleep in the same bed as my wife, not the doghouse.
> 
> ...


Yea baby!!


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## sikrap (Mar 15, 2009)

JayT said:


> *Progress, finally!*
> 
> Now satisfied with how the first coat of japanning laid down, I needed to figure out how to get a better cure. Attempts to leave the plane out in direct sunlight on a hot summer day didn't do quite a good enough job. Several websites had mentioned baking the plane, but there was no way I was going to use the kitchen stove-for one it was brand new this summer when we remodeled the kitchen and two, I would like to continue to sleep in the same bed as my wife, not the doghouse.
> 
> ...


Ooooooh, pretty. Please remind me what "blend" you used for this. BTW, I know a guy that does this in his kitchen stove. He puts the plane in the oven right after his wife goes to work and then opens all the windows and runs a couple fans ) Almost forgot, do you cook it for another 30 minutes after you put the 2nd coat on?


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

JayT said:


> *Progress, finally!*
> 
> Now satisfied with how the first coat of japanning laid down, I needed to figure out how to get a better cure. Attempts to leave the plane out in direct sunlight on a hot summer day didn't do quite a good enough job. Several websites had mentioned baking the plane, but there was no way I was going to use the kitchen stove-for one it was brand new this summer when we remodeled the kitchen and two, I would like to continue to sleep in the same bed as my wife, not the doghouse.
> 
> ...


Looks great JayT!


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## Arminius (Dec 27, 2007)

JayT said:


> *Progress, finally!*
> 
> Now satisfied with how the first coat of japanning laid down, I needed to figure out how to get a better cure. Attempts to leave the plane out in direct sunlight on a hot summer day didn't do quite a good enough job. Several websites had mentioned baking the plane, but there was no way I was going to use the kitchen stove-for one it was brand new this summer when we remodeled the kitchen and two, I would like to continue to sleep in the same bed as my wife, not the doghouse.
> 
> ...


LMFAO at the bbq….when I did this, I used the method sikrap describes…


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

JayT said:


> *Progress, finally!*
> 
> Now satisfied with how the first coat of japanning laid down, I needed to figure out how to get a better cure. Attempts to leave the plane out in direct sunlight on a hot summer day didn't do quite a good enough job. Several websites had mentioned baking the plane, but there was no way I was going to use the kitchen stove-for one it was brand new this summer when we remodeled the kitchen and two, I would like to continue to sleep in the same bed as my wife, not the doghouse.
> 
> ...


niiiiiice !!!! 
always the BBQ that save the day ….lol
are you talking farenheit or celcius when you say 250 degree

Dennis


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

JayT said:


> *Progress, finally!*
> 
> Now satisfied with how the first coat of japanning laid down, I needed to figure out how to get a better cure. Attempts to leave the plane out in direct sunlight on a hot summer day didn't do quite a good enough job. Several websites had mentioned baking the plane, but there was no way I was going to use the kitchen stove-for one it was brand new this summer when we remodeled the kitchen and two, I would like to continue to sleep in the same bed as my wife, not the doghouse.
> 
> ...


Dennis, 250 farenheit.

Dave, trying to steal my thunder? You are anticipating the next post.


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

JayT said:


> *Progress, finally!*
> 
> Now satisfied with how the first coat of japanning laid down, I needed to figure out how to get a better cure. Attempts to leave the plane out in direct sunlight on a hot summer day didn't do quite a good enough job. Several websites had mentioned baking the plane, but there was no way I was going to use the kitchen stove-for one it was brand new this summer when we remodeled the kitchen and two, I would like to continue to sleep in the same bed as my wife, not the doghouse.
> 
> ...


thanks Jay


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

JayT said:


> *Progress, finally!*
> 
> Now satisfied with how the first coat of japanning laid down, I needed to figure out how to get a better cure. Attempts to leave the plane out in direct sunlight on a hot summer day didn't do quite a good enough job. Several websites had mentioned baking the plane, but there was no way I was going to use the kitchen stove-for one it was brand new this summer when we remodeled the kitchen and two, I would like to continue to sleep in the same bed as my wife, not the doghouse.
> 
> ...


I got this off another website. Thought some of you may be interested

http://www.gutenberg.org/files/15622/15622-h/15622-h.htm


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

JayT said:


> *Progress, finally!*
> 
> Now satisfied with how the first coat of japanning laid down, I needed to figure out how to get a better cure. Attempts to leave the plane out in direct sunlight on a hot summer day didn't do quite a good enough job. Several websites had mentioned baking the plane, but there was no way I was going to use the kitchen stove-for one it was brand new this summer when we remodeled the kitchen and two, I would like to continue to sleep in the same bed as my wife, not the doghouse.
> 
> ...


thanks for the link Don 

Dennis


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

JayT said:


> *Progress, finally!*
> 
> Now satisfied with how the first coat of japanning laid down, I needed to figure out how to get a better cure. Attempts to leave the plane out in direct sunlight on a hot summer day didn't do quite a good enough job. Several websites had mentioned baking the plane, but there was no way I was going to use the kitchen stove-for one it was brand new this summer when we remodeled the kitchen and two, I would like to continue to sleep in the same bed as my wife, not the doghouse.
> 
> ...


Yabadabado
Plane BBQ, I love it.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

JayT said:


> *Progress, finally!*
> 
> Now satisfied with how the first coat of japanning laid down, I needed to figure out how to get a better cure. Attempts to leave the plane out in direct sunlight on a hot summer day didn't do quite a good enough job. Several websites had mentioned baking the plane, but there was no way I was going to use the kitchen stove-for one it was brand new this summer when we remodeled the kitchen and two, I would like to continue to sleep in the same bed as my wife, not the doghouse.
> 
> ...


Cool thanks for sharing this technique .


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

*Completion!*

At the end of the last post, I had laid down a second layer of japanning on the test plane. The plane was again baked in my outdoor "oven" for a couple of hours at around 250 degrees F. The japanning was then scuffed up, this time with 220 grit. 400 just wasn't cutting through that well. The nice part about the thickness of the japanning mixture is that it does a good job filling the casting marks.










You can see in the picture above the low and high spots in the cast iron (white/silver high spots of bare metal and the dark black being low spots not hit by the sandpaper). A third coat levelled these out nicely. This coat also got a bake after being allowed to dry overnight.

Here is the result on a 606.



















I was very pleased with the color and sheen of the final product. My only real complaint is that I didn't have a dust free room, so there are blemishes in the finish from dust landing on and sticking to the japanning while it was still tacky and before baking.

Since Don asked in an earlier blog post about comparing with the Duplicolor Ford Semi Gloss black engine enamel, I did the tail of a broken #7 for a comparison. Left to right is the 606 with three coats of my homemade japanning, an unrestored Type 11 #4 and the #7 with four coats of the Duplicolor spray paint.










It is tough to make out in the photo, but there is a very subtle difference in color. Personally, I think the homemade asphaltum japanning mix is a better match to the original Stanley, but it is very close. The spray enamel just seems to have a slight greenish gray tinge to the blackness of it. The sheen level of both finishes is very similar, with the japanning maybe a bit more glossy.

If presented with one plane by itself, I don't think I would be able to tell if it was Duplicolor or my japanning recipe by the color alone. The one way that I would be able to tell the difference is that the japanning seems to fill the unevenness of the casting much better. That might be solved by heavier coats of spray paint, but I haven't had a chance to try that. Maybe someone else who has used that method more often can chime in.

Well, that is the majority of the journey. There will be one more blog post summarizing the recipe, process and lessons learned.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

JayT said:


> *Completion!*
> 
> At the end of the last post, I had laid down a second layer of japanning on the test plane. The plane was again baked in my outdoor "oven" for a couple of hours at around 250 degrees F. The japanning was then scuffed up, this time with 220 grit. 400 just wasn't cutting through that well. The nice part about the thickness of the japanning mixture is that it does a good job filling the casting marks.
> 
> ...


This is a great series. Thanks for the work. Your convincing me I may have to try it myself.

I've added a few coats of the paint to fill voids, it does work.

I've noticed I have a hard time telling which I've repainted unless the japanning is not 100 percent.


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## Arminius (Dec 27, 2007)

JayT said:


> *Completion!*
> 
> At the end of the last post, I had laid down a second layer of japanning on the test plane. The plane was again baked in my outdoor "oven" for a couple of hours at around 250 degrees F. The japanning was then scuffed up, this time with 220 grit. 400 just wasn't cutting through that well. The nice part about the thickness of the japanning mixture is that it does a good job filling the casting marks.
> 
> ...


I have had some success filling in the casting using a similar Duplicolor gloss black for the first 1-2 coats. The gloss seems to build faster without really requiring a heavier coat.


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## SamuelP (Feb 26, 2011)

JayT said:


> *Completion!*
> 
> At the end of the last post, I had laid down a second layer of japanning on the test plane. The plane was again baked in my outdoor "oven" for a couple of hours at around 250 degrees F. The japanning was then scuffed up, this time with 220 grit. 400 just wasn't cutting through that well. The nice part about the thickness of the japanning mixture is that it does a good job filling the casting marks.
> 
> ...


This is a great blog series. Thank you.

I was talking to my dad about this and he knew an old timer who retired from Stanley and worked in the production side with the planes. He said that they had these stiff horse air brushes that they would use to knock the sheen off the brand new japanning and gave it the final finish.

Not sure where to get a stiff horse hair brush.


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

JayT said:


> *Completion!*
> 
> At the end of the last post, I had laid down a second layer of japanning on the test plane. The plane was again baked in my outdoor "oven" for a couple of hours at around 250 degrees F. The japanning was then scuffed up, this time with 220 grit. 400 just wasn't cutting through that well. The nice part about the thickness of the japanning mixture is that it does a good job filling the casting marks.
> 
> ...


Don, Arminium, thanks for the input.

Sam, I am going to try that. I have shoe shine brushes that are horsehair. I don't know if any will be stiff enough, but it is worth a shot. Amazing what kind of input you can get from people. Thank your dad for me.


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## sikrap (Mar 15, 2009)

JayT said:


> *Completion!*
> 
> At the end of the last post, I had laid down a second layer of japanning on the test plane. The plane was again baked in my outdoor "oven" for a couple of hours at around 250 degrees F. The japanning was then scuffed up, this time with 220 grit. 400 just wasn't cutting through that well. The nice part about the thickness of the japanning mixture is that it does a good job filling the casting marks.
> 
> ...


Excellent series!! Thanks very much!! Like Don, I may have to give your method a try. I have a "few" planes that could stand some rejapanning.


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

JayT said:


> *Completion!*
> 
> At the end of the last post, I had laid down a second layer of japanning on the test plane. The plane was again baked in my outdoor "oven" for a couple of hours at around 250 degrees F. The japanning was then scuffed up, this time with 220 grit. 400 just wasn't cutting through that well. The nice part about the thickness of the japanning mixture is that it does a good job filling the casting marks.
> 
> ...


Thanks JayT. Great info.


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## Arminius (Dec 27, 2007)

JayT said:


> *Completion!*
> 
> At the end of the last post, I had laid down a second layer of japanning on the test plane. The plane was again baked in my outdoor "oven" for a couple of hours at around 250 degrees F. The japanning was then scuffed up, this time with 220 grit. 400 just wasn't cutting through that well. The nice part about the thickness of the japanning mixture is that it does a good job filling the casting marks.
> 
> ...


Really enjoying the series - I have done one small batch of japanning, and I liked the results. But I just don't have the volume to justify the amount of work, nor the patience to build up a batch.

I suspect the asphaltum finish is somewhat tougher than the engine enamel as well, though I have never really tested that.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

JayT said:


> *Completion!*
> 
> At the end of the last post, I had laid down a second layer of japanning on the test plane. The plane was again baked in my outdoor "oven" for a couple of hours at around 250 degrees F. The japanning was then scuffed up, this time with 220 grit. 400 just wasn't cutting through that well. The nice part about the thickness of the japanning mixture is that it does a good job filling the casting marks.
> 
> ...


What a great blog, so informative and really well documented, thank you.
I hope to try this at one point.
Looks beautiful on the plane.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## ZED (Dec 11, 2011)

JayT said:


> *Completion!*
> 
> At the end of the last post, I had laid down a second layer of japanning on the test plane. The plane was again baked in my outdoor "oven" for a couple of hours at around 250 degrees F. The japanning was then scuffed up, this time with 220 grit. 400 just wasn't cutting through that well. The nice part about the thickness of the japanning mixture is that it does a good job filling the casting marks.
> 
> ...


Great Read, well documentted. Thanks


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

*That's a wrap! (for now)*

Having tested, erred, retested, erred again and so on, I was finally happy with how the homemade japanning came out, so did several restores.










We'll try and do a summary of everything learned here in one blog post.

Supplies needed:
Asphaltum-available in powder form or liquid, which is what I used. Art supply stores seem to be the best source, as it is used in acid etching.
Solvent-Xylol or turpentine should either work fine. Both are capable of suspending the heavy asphaltum solids.
Varnish-I used semi-gloss spar varnish that was already on hand. Other recipes I found used gloss or BLO. I might have to try BLO sometime in the future.
Artist brush-A small mop brush (about 1/2in wide) worked very well. Make sure to get one that is recommended for oil paints and finishes.
Air-tight container for mixing and storing the japanning mixture
Shop supplies-such as sandpaper, paper towels, masking tape

When all was said and done, there was about $30 invested in supplies, outside of normal shop stuff.

Japanning Mixture:
2 parts liquid asphaltum
1 part spar varnish
Mix well. The ratio doesn't have to be exact as I also had success with a 3:1 ratio, but make sure it is thick enough that it will coat and cling to vertical surfaces. If the mixture is too thin, it will sag and is susceptible to bubbling when baked.

The liquid asphaltum is a 50/50 mix of xylol and gilsonite,by weight, so if you purchase the powdered asphaltum, you should end up using nearly equal amounts of the three ingredients.

One issue that came up is that the liquid asphaltum will thicken after being opened, even in the original container. Adding a splash of solvent will easily get it back to a usable consistency.

Process:
Starting with a stripped and cleaned metal surface, lay down an even medium coat of the japanning mixture using the artist's brush.
Allow the finish to dry overnight.
Bake at 250-300F for two to three hours. Indirect heat is best, such as an oven. When using the grill, I did get some bubbling where part of the plane was directly above a burner. The areas around the lettering were much more susceptible to this. To avoid that issue, I used the side burner(s) and place the plane body in the center of the grate so that it wasn't directly over the heat source. Also, baking for longer &/or at higher temps may result in an even harder and shinier finish. If you want to do higher temps, go progressive, i.e. two hours at 250, two at 350, one at 450. Starting at too high of temps may cause bubbling or warp the plane casting.
After allowing the plane to cool, scuff the finish with sandpaper. 220 grit seemed to work best.
Wipe the finish down with a solvent dipped rag or paper towel to remove sanding dust.
Repeat the process to add more coats.

Three coats seems to be about right. It allows the finish to fill the unevenness of the casting while preserving the details of the lettering. I tried a fourth coat once, but it caused the lettering to lose its clarity.

A note about masking. On early attempts, I was masking all the surfaces not being japanned. The problem is that the tape has to be removed before baking and then reapplied. Later in the process, I didn't mask at all and didn't have any issues. Any japanning that ended up on the sole or sides was removed with a razor blade scraper before flattening, which removed any left over traces. The frog mating surfaces were carefully "painted" around and the very little japanning that got on those was again scraped off with the razor blade.

Having used both spray paint and now playing around with this method of japanning, here are my conclusions.

What I like about japanning:
The end result seems to match up a bit better to the original Stanley finish.
The whole process can be done inside.
It fills the iron castings very well.
The japanning mixture goes a LONG way. I have now done the equivalent of six planes (four complete, with two done twice) and have probably used about 20% of the liquid asphaltum. Considering the size of the planes done (#5 & 6 each once, 5 & 8 twice) a single pint of the asphaltum should easily do two to three dozen plane bodies.

Considerations before japanning (not necessarily negatives, but things you would want to think about):
The japanning finish is best done in a dust free environment.
The whole process will take several days to complete. The individual steps do not take that long (I was able to scuff, wipe and apply a coat of japanning on three planes in less than 20 minutes total), but you have the time to allow the finish to dry, then bake, then cool before doing the next layer.
Must have the ability to bake the finish without being kicked out of the house.
Requires the purchase of some materials that probably won't be useful for much else.

I think there are times/circumstances when both spray paint and japanning are appropriate. If you are the type that just want to get the tool protected from rust and move on to using it or you are just doing a couple of items, then spray paint is probably more for you. For me, I actually enjoyed the whole process, so am inclined to continue with japanning. I'll probably play around with some aspects of japanning (such as using BLO instead of varnish) just for the fun of it. If anything interesting comes up, I can add another post, but otherwise, this blog series is a wrap.

Thanks to those of you who followed and encouraged during this blog. Special thanks to Don and Mads for providing links with lots of great information. If anyone does attempt this process, please let me know how it goes and if you learn something I missed.


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

JayT said:


> *That's a wrap! (for now)*
> 
> Having tested, erred, retested, erred again and so on, I was finally happy with how the homemade japanning came out, so did several restores.
> 
> ...


Jay it has been a pleasure to follow you on this path 

one thing more to have in mind is that the solvent you use is degreasers 
speciel Xylol is to the haevy side becourse it also dry out your skin and the eyes if you get 
any in them …. beside you say you use an acid of an art

eye protection is deffently a thing you want to wear booth under mixing and applying the mix 
platic/rubber gloves of some kind has to me considered too

after all we want to enjoy how our jewlry´s look with the hard work we have done … 

take care
Dennis


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

JayT said:


> *That's a wrap! (for now)*
> 
> Having tested, erred, retested, erred again and so on, I was finally happy with how the homemade japanning came out, so did several restores.
> 
> ...


JayT, this is probably one of the best blogs I've read. It makes it next to impossible for me not to try this now.

I have a couple of questions. What are the reasons you think you'd get kicked out of the house baking it? I know I've refinished a couple of rifles with baked on finishes, and I waited for the wife to go away, but for no real reason other than it was easier to not answer the questions. That finish had no real smell or adverse affects. Does the japanning have a bad smell, and anything else we need to know about?

How about touch ups. Do you think the plane needs to be stripped? What would happen adding a coat to a 80% japanning to get it back?

Once again, great series.


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

JayT said:


> *That's a wrap! (for now)*
> 
> Having tested, erred, retested, erred again and so on, I was finally happy with how the homemade japanning came out, so did several restores.
> 
> ...


Good questions Don.

Thanks JayT for sharing this.


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

JayT said:


> *That's a wrap! (for now)*
> 
> Having tested, erred, retested, erred again and so on, I was finally happy with how the homemade japanning came out, so did several restores.
> 
> ...


Don, there was a slight odor and visible fumes when baking on the grill outside. I imagine the odor would be a bit stronger in a confined space, but nothing very bad. If the wife is understanding (or you bake while she is away) you could use the kitchen. I didn't want to fight that battle.

I do think that you could do touch ups. The biggest issue would be getting the new japanning to match the old well enough, especially the sheen. I actually did touch up one of the frogs. It had about 80% original japanning, so I didn't strip it originally. Once the plane was reassembled, the difference in sheen was just enough to bug me.

One coat of japanning was laid down over the bare areas, then, after baking, the whole thing was sanded with 220 to even the finish out and a second coat was put on the whole frog. This allowed me to not strip down to bare metal, but also have a uniform finish. It turned out pretty decent. I don't have a plane body with 60-80% original japanning to try it out, but I think it would work, as well.


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

JayT said:


> *That's a wrap! (for now)*
> 
> Having tested, erred, retested, erred again and so on, I was finally happy with how the homemade japanning came out, so did several restores.
> 
> ...


Dennis, good points. I didn't wear gloves, but it is certainly a good idea.


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## Klickitat (Apr 12, 2013)

JayT said:


> *That's a wrap! (for now)*
> 
> Having tested, erred, retested, erred again and so on, I was finally happy with how the homemade japanning came out, so did several restores.
> 
> ...


I know that I am late to the party here, but what a great read.

Thank you for taking the time to do this. It was very informative and one of the best things I have read in a while.


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## hhhopks (Nov 22, 2011)

JayT said:


> *That's a wrap! (for now)*
> 
> Having tested, erred, retested, erred again and so on, I was finally happy with how the homemade japanning came out, so did several restores.
> 
> ...


Thanks for sharing.
I enjoyed very much. I definitely want to try it.


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## jev67 (Jun 28, 2015)

JayT said:


> *That's a wrap! (for now)*
> 
> Having tested, erred, retested, erred again and so on, I was finally happy with how the homemade japanning came out, so did several restores.
> 
> ...


i found the best way to apply, and i picked this up from some real pros in this stuff, is to apply a second coat while the first coat is still a bit wet, this prevents having 2 distinct and separate coats, it melds the 2 coats together as one. and after baking at 250-300 F it gives a good thick factory like finish….i use my gas oven at my house, no smell or toxic fumes noticed either….i say 250-300 because any temp in this rage will work. 250 results were the same as 300. but for some reason, just as a personal preference, i use 280 F. i use a slightly different method(turpentine and linseed oil w/powdered asphaltum) but at printmaking-materials.com (where i get cheap powder) they have a pint of *liquid asphaltum* for 10 bucks and the quart for not much more, and i been dying to try it. you could bypass the dissolving powder in turpentine step… actually i think it could be the key to perfect duplication…Because it dries so slowly, linseed oil is the perfect vehicle for natural and synthetic pigments and the product that it creates has been a hit with artists and printers quite literally for centuries, even ancient greeks used it.


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## daddywoofdawg (Feb 1, 2014)

JayT said:


> *That's a wrap! (for now)*
> 
> Having tested, erred, retested, erred again and so on, I was finally happy with how the homemade japanning came out, so did several restores.
> 
> ...


I trying to follow,where does the varish come in,and where does the Blo come in to replace.


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

JayT said:


> *That's a wrap! (for now)*
> 
> Having tested, erred, retested, erred again and so on, I was finally happy with how the homemade japanning came out, so did several restores.
> 
> ...


dwd, varnish is mixed with the liquid asphaltum to get the final japanning mixture. The asphaltum by itself is too thick to do a good job. There's more info in the second installment of the blog series.

I've read, but not yet tested, that BLO can be used instead of the varnish.


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## AndyMcKenzie (Nov 5, 2011)

JayT said:


> *That's a wrap! (for now)*
> 
> Having tested, erred, retested, erred again and so on, I was finally happy with how the homemade japanning came out, so did several restores.
> 
> ...


Jay, I know this is an ancient thread (nearly a year… that makes this nearly prehistoric by internet standards!), but I just ran across it and wanted to thank you.

I've been working on cleaning up a Miller's Falls plane I picked up somewhere, and the body is probably down to about 1% Japanning behind the frog, and about 95% in front of it. I'm not sure exactly what I'm going to do yet, but this looks like a pretty good option!


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## Evo160K (Nov 29, 2016)

JayT said:


> *That's a wrap! (for now)*
> 
> Having tested, erred, retested, erred again and so on, I was finally happy with how the homemade japanning came out, so did several restores.
> 
> ...


Jay, your outstanding series on Japanning has motivated our people to try to recreate the original japan finish on an industrial, Singer sewing machine we are restoring, hopefully to museum quality.

We are wondering if you would mind commenting on an issue we encountered while testing the material?

We started with Graphic brand Liquid Asphaltum (50% by volume Mineral Spirits - Xylol and 50% by volume Gilsonite/Asphalt). We thinned it with Klean-strip brand Pure Gum Spirits Turpentine and added 10%-12% Klean-strip Boiled Linseed Oil. We used a natural bristle brush to coat a test piece of cast iron that had been cleaned with turpentine, then let the coating dry for 24 hours. We heated it for two hours at 250 degrees F., two hours at 325 degrees F., two hours at 395 degrees F. and let it cool to room temperature in the oven. The piece had a high gloss, several pinpoint size air bubbles and easily scratched with a fingernail. Because it was soft, our first thought was the piece needed to be baked to a higher temperature. We moistened 220 gr. emery paper with turpentine and began sanding the piece. To our surprise, the coating easily wiped off down to bare metal, more or less confirming, at least to us, the need for a higher baking temperature.

We then applied a second coat, let it dry for 24 hours, baked it for two hours at 250, two hours at 350, two hours at 425, and let it cool to room temperature in the oven. It again had a few air bubble, but it was much harder and did not scratch with a finger nail. We thought we were on the right track.

Now here's the issue: we again wet the emery paper, but this time with denatured alcohol, and lightly sanded the piece to remove the air bubbles in preparation for the final coat…....again the coating easily wiped off…....down to bare metal.

Do you know what we're doing wrong?

Thank you, thank you very much for your time.


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

JayT said:


> *That's a wrap! (for now)*
> 
> Having tested, erred, retested, erred again and so on, I was finally happy with how the homemade japanning came out, so did several restores.
> 
> ...


Evo,

I never experienced anything like that. Every time I've done the japanning, it has firmly adhered to the cast iron. Even four years later, the planes shown above have no chips or other wear, the japanning has held up perfectly. It sounds like the only thing you are doing differently is using BLO instead of varnish and baking to higher temps. I have not tried adding BLO, but have a hard time believing that is what is causing your issue.

Troubleshooting to me says that either the metal is not getting clean enough, the finish is going on too thick or it's something in the baking process. Without being in the room, all I can do is guess, so please don't feel offended by any suggestions.

First is easy to double check. Clean thoroughly, maybe even resorting to something more aggressive, like brake cleaner.

The second is also easy, thin coats, but making sure the mixture is not so thin as to run off the metal, it still needs to cling well.

The baking, however, has a lot of variables. I've not personally tried the progressive temps, it's just something found in the research, so don't know how much that is contributing to the problem. I suppose it's theoretically possible that overbaking is causing the japanning to contract a bit as it dries and pull away from the cast iron, or the cast iron is cooling too fast and contracting away from a "shell" of the finish. Have you tried baking for just three hours or so at 250-300 degrees? You mentioned your first attempt seemed soft, but keep in mind that even with baking, the finish will continue to cure for quite a while until achieving full hardness. I'd rather have it a bit soft and allow to contract with the cooling iron and then curing some more than to have it too hard, too fast.

That's the only thoughts I've got. If you really want a superior quality finish without the frustrations, it might be worth investing in a quart of the Pontypool japanning I linked in the first blog post, which does not need baked. As a matter of fact, they stress to not do so.

Best of luck.


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## Evo160K (Nov 29, 2016)

JayT said:


> *That's a wrap! (for now)*
> 
> Having tested, erred, retested, erred again and so on, I was finally happy with how the homemade japanning came out, so did several restores.
> 
> ...


returning topic

Jay, thank you for your thoughts on the issue. Oddly, it may have resolved itself!!

So we stripped the test piece again, wire wheeled it, cleaned it thoroughly with turpentine and japanned it a third time with three coats, drying each coat overnight, as we did the previous two times. We baked each coat for two hours at each of 250, 350 and 425 F. and took it out of the oven on Nov. 30, for the final time. On Dec. 2nd, without having done anything further to the test piece, we decided to wipe it with a turpentine saturated rag as a test, (no emery paper this time), to see what would happen; we were thinking the turp was going to remove the coating as before.. To our great surprise and delight, it didn't phase the coating. The coating didn't scratch with a fingernail and looks authentic….everything seems to be fine.

Perhaps the piece was a bit too warm the previous two times we wiped it down, or maybe the emery was too aggressive for the temperature. Whatever, we hope the issue is behind us. Do you have any thoughts? Thanks Jay.


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## Manitario (Jul 4, 2010)

JayT said:


> *That's a wrap! (for now)*
> 
> Having tested, erred, retested, erred again and so on, I was finally happy with how the homemade japanning came out, so did several restores.
> 
> ...


This series is pure LJ's gold. One of the many reasons why I've stayed on this site.


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