# Dust Collection Advice



## Woodtechie (Dec 8, 2013)

Hello,
I'm getting a Grizzly jointer soon, and I know that means lots of dust, so I need some real dust collection. 
While I'm at it I might as well hook up the other stuff too, so I'm trying to figure out a good plan.

My plan is to get a 1 1/2 HP Cyclone (G0703 from Grizzly), but I'm not sure if this is overkill or what. The few hundred extra over a cheaper non-cyclone isn't a big deal. I'd like to connect the table saw, band saw, and sander as well (that's 4 4" connections total, and I think a 2 1/2" for the sander). Tubes would all be along the wall other than the table saw, which would be a 4" tube dropped from the ceiling (unless I end up doing a total rearrangement). Plan to use plastic blast gates to shut off tubes not being used, and 4" Woodstock clear hose also sold by Grizzly.

Assuming this link works, here's my first attempt at trying to redesign my layout (or what it will be, once the jointer and collector get there):



















Any suggestions or feedback welcome.


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## pmayer (Jan 3, 2010)

I don't think the jointer will cause you a lot of problem. I find them to be one of the easier tools to collect. Light fluffy debris, fairly well contained in the dust chute, and the volume is manageable.

More CFM is better. I'd go a bit bigger if you can swing it. Cyclone is great, but I'd favor better CFM with a pre-separator over cyclone if you need to make that trade-off. Minimize the use of flex hose. Don't run that entire system using flex or you will kill your CFM.

For the sander I'd go 4" up to the unit and reduce to 2.5" right at the tool. That sander makes a LOT of dust, and that dang 2.5" port is a problem but reducing right at the tool helps a lot. I wish they would open that up and add a 4" port. I'd actually buy a new one if they did that.

Your table saw is a good one from a dust collection perspective (as well as most other perspectives). Table saws are normally one of the more challenging tools to collect from, but SS provides a dust all the way to the blade, and the blade has a tight shroud around it. Even with marginal CFM this design does quite well to capture dust.

I think your bigger challenge will be the miter saw. Those things are notoriously painful to collect from.


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## brtech (May 26, 2010)

Not clear what the size here is, but based on the scale of the tools, I'd say it would be hard to keep up enough CFM to clear fine dust with 1.5HP. You may be better with 20' flex and move the hose to each tool if you have to stay that low. Usually, they say a cyclone needs 3-5HP. A Thein filter, on the other hand, does a decent job on a lot less. As long as your filter is .5 micron or better, I'd think about a Thein if you need to keep the cost down. Of course in that power range the HF "2HP" (it isn't) with a Wynn filter is a very good purchase.

If you were hard plumbing it, I'd come up from the DC and use a triple Wye above it, one branch down each wall and one diagonal to the TS. You need to decide how you want to get the pipe down to the TS. You need to make sure the pipe doesn't block any cuts. Think about sheet goods. Sometimes, it's best to come down at floor level and accross from a wall, but that means you need to build a ramp to cover the pipe.


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

*brtech +10*

I've added a Wynn nano filter and a Thien "lid" separator to my HF DC and stretch a flex hose to each tool as needed. All but one can be reached with a single 10ft section and the planer needs two sections. To me the inconvenience factor is minimal. Just locate the DC in a somewhat central location. Mine is central but still against a wall so my TS has the space to do all cuts, including 4×8 sheet goods.

Suggest putting the BS on locking rollers. Works great that ways.

Good luck! It is always a fun time during the planning stages. Best of times… *8^)*


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## Woodtechie (Dec 8, 2013)

A higher CFM (non-Cyclone) is actually cheaper. I've read the marketing stuff but I'm still a little uncertain about what a cyclone gets you vs a regular DC with higher HP. What's the real trade off?
This is the model I'm looking at.

The G0440 page says "Machine Collection Capacity At One Time" = 3 Machines. I'm not cloning myself anytime soon-wouldn't these cheapo plastic blast gates (closing off all other ports) help enough? (Bandsaw has two 4" ports…)

Shop dimensions are about 22'x22'. If a Cyclone needs 3+ HP, is Grizzly screwing up selling underpowered models?

Yeah, that miter saw… honestly I wasn't even going to bother trying to do anything additional with that. I do plan to build a router table, but again-blast gate technique?

One thing I could do is move that DC to the center of the wall, or move the TS over. I feel like I'd be wasting easily accessible wall space by putting the DC in the middle. Need to think about TS against the wall. I'd probably have to break down that oversized workbench into two smaller ones if I did that (so I can have an outfeed table), since I like to have access to more than two sides.

Most everything is mobile here, so I can reconfigure if I need to. Nothing is really set in stone (well the back workbench kind of is, but I've been thinking of tearing that thing down anyway).

Yeah, the more I read about this topic makes me think I should have been more concerned about this earlier on. This guy makes a decent case for a more expensive model but $1700 is more than I want to spend. Decisions decisions…

What's a Thein/Wynn filter? I'm not stuck on Grizzly, or Cyclones - should I be looking elsewhere? I figured Cyclones were a newer/better tech, but maybe not.

My preferred budget is 800 or less, but I might go to 1000 if needed.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

The unit you picked is hardly overkill, more would be better. Someone else mentioned it, the joinmter is one of the easier tools to manage, and doesn't reallt produce that much dust. The BS, OTOH, can be a real boooger to deal with. Good luck with your set up!


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## reedwood (Jan 27, 2011)

"One thing I could do is move that DC to the center of the wall"

how about the center of the room? That's what I did. This avoided the toe grabbing 4" flex hose across the floor.

I built my 3.5×8 ft. work bench at the same height as the TS with the 50" side table and butted them together. then I put the DC at the end of the bench which is less than 8 ft. from the Jointer, planer and TS.

I also installed a 2" system with 4 gates above. One to the miter box/ RAS, one to the sanding station, and two that I can open to clear dust above sanding work area. Not as good as 4" but it does work.

I have the Jet 2 hp. with filter cartridge and have been pretty happy so far. It takes awhile to fill that bag.

But, If I'm making a ton of shavings on the router table or planer, sometimes I'll hook up the shop vac so I don't have to replace the huge bag as soon. Those clear bags ain't cheap! a shop vac is easier to empty in the trash bin too. I guess that's the same idea behind a cyclone.

If that is a garage, I would consider reversing the TS so you face the garage door. The HTC rolling stands work great for the jointer and TS. If you plan on making that much dust you're gonna need more work bench area too.

this drawing is pretty cool. I hope you end up with a great shop!

Merry Christmas!


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

Phil Thien Separator

Wynn Filters


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## brtech (May 26, 2010)

Here's the thing: What you want out of a DC is COLLECT THE DUST. What all these gizmos do is try to get as much of the junk out of the air as they can before it goes to the filter. The filter does the rest.

If you have no baffle and no cyclone, then the ramp in the ring does the separation. It's not too good at that, so lots of dust goes into the filter, which only means one thing - you have to clean the filter more often.

A cyclone and the Thien baffle do a better job at separation - less dust goes into the filter. The difference is efficiency - how much of your original CFM goes into powering the separator, and how much is left over to, you know, suck!

A well designed Cyclone gets more separation at higher efficiency than the baffle. But the key is "well designed". The Pence designed cyclone with a 5 HP motor and suitable impeller, is generally considered to be well designed. The larger PSI and Oneida ones also are, although Bill seems to still have some beef with some aspect of at least one of them.

For those of us with less than 5 HP, it's not all that clear you can get to "well designed". The Thien baffle seems to work nearly as well as the smaller cyclones, at a fraction of the cost. So, put your money into as many CFM as you can get, and then put the baffle in it (either outboard or in the ring).

Yes, you want blast gates on all machines, and only have one open at a time. The cheapo plastic ones work, but they clog up. Look here on LJ for some home made ones that seem to work fine.

Placement is tricky. Clearly you want to minimize run length. ISTM that putting it where you show it is about as good as you could get, and moving it to the middle wouldn't change the length a whole lot. BUT consider that you want no 90 degree bends (no Ts), only wide sweeps, wyes or 45 degree angles with at least a foot or so of straight pipe before another bend. That may change your mind about where you put it.


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## Woodtechie (Dec 8, 2013)

Yeah this is a slightly oversized 2C garage. DC in the center would put me near the garage door opener (which the TS hose is dangerously close to in the first place). Jet 2HP looks to be about 1200 CFM vs the one I'm looking at which is 775 CFM.

I'd have to check my ceiling height first, but what if I upgrade to this expensive 2HP bastage? (Which happens to be on sale for Christmas!) That gets me to 1354 CFM.

I'm still leaning to a Cyclone since I'm a lazy cleaner (esp with dust cleanup) and I figure that should help keep the filter clear.

The way Grizzly is describing these in their videos they're claiming that the smalller 775 CFM is fine for a small shop (one machine) and this larger one is a mid size shop, which sounds like overkill to me.

@reedwood - why would you reverse the TS to face the door? (If it's for windows, my door doesn't have any - on purpose for security.) Interestingly enough I have been thinking of turning it 90 degrees so that if I ever get a bad kickback it'll hit the wood and shelf junk behind (and hopefully not me). A 180 degree turn puts an expensive Excalibur scrollsaw in the firing line. :/


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## Woodtechie (Dec 8, 2013)

@brtech - Yeah 5HP, not going to happen in my small shop (plus, I want to keep my hearing). I think I'm just having a hard time believing that Grizzly would sell a Cyclone which, judging by the feedback here, is a piece of junk.

DC mid-wall sounds like a good way to avoid a few turns, I'll have to play around with that setup next.


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## JonHitThingWithRock (Sep 7, 2013)

I've been racking my brain over this same dilema for a while now, I've pretty much decided to go with the 3hp dual-canister collector here and add on a thein or super dust deputy later on


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## Volund (Jan 17, 2013)

There's a lot of science to dust collection. First, CFM at the tool is key. Every turn, every rough surface and even every foot of pipe itself will reduce your final CFM, so starting big is really necessary. You will never regret having higher CFM. Use smooth pipe for as much of the runs as possible, use sweeps instead of 90 deg. turns, and use at least 4" pipe… 6" if you can. Neck down as close to the tool as possible, and limit your use of hose as much as possible.

Note that 2HP is about all you can get on a 110 circuit. You'll probably want to limit the tools you run on the same circuit as the running DC. A compressor or TS firing up on the same circuit is liable to pop your breaker.

I use a Clearview cyclone with a 2HP DC. I have filled a 30 Gal. trash can 5 times from the cyclone's output, and there is still less than 1 gal. of dust in the bag from my blower. The bag sits below my 5nm canister filter, which I shake clean regularly. This is a critical measure of the success since dust will plug any filter, and a plugged filter reduces your CFM dramatically. I can't say enough for cyclone technology in general and the full-size Clearview in particular.

I'd also recommend an ambient air filter. There are plans all over the Internet for filters that use furnace inserts. You'll be amazed how quickly those need to be cleaned even with good DC at your stationary tools.

Personally, I find the chop saw and table saw are the hardest to catch dust from. This is especially true of dust that comes off the top of the table saw. For my Grizzly 5HP saw, 750 CFM at the saw is about bare minimum to keep the cabinet clear. I'd guess you will see about half that with the setup described at the top of this thread.

Good luck,
- AJS


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## reedwood (Jan 27, 2011)

"why would you reverse the TS to face the door?" - personal preference for sure.

But, I find that it saves time walking around the TS and it works perfect for my layout. The sun lights the table if the door is open in the summer, the dust port faces the right way on my Unisaw, and it works well when cutting and staging a lot of pieces. 4×8 sheets are easier too.

You can rip a 16 ft. 2xs easier too with the door open. Raise the blade into it halfway, flip it and finish rip right out the door.

Say, You keep talking about planning on kickback and you're going to jinx yourself!..... cut it out already! Ha!


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## MJCD (Nov 28, 2011)

First, I would opt for a 1.5hp / 2hp single stage DC, with the Oneida Super Dust Deputy separator prior to the impeller - you'll get the cyclone benefits at a much reduced cost. Use the extra money to purchase the Wynn Nano (HEPA) filters - you will collect as much dust in your system as the cyclone, and breath easier with the Nanos.

Second, I would reverse the orientation of your table saw, and shift it to the common wall (with your DC), and run a 4" or 5" main (from the Oneida) to the back (4") of the machine. This will place your TS mid-run on the wall, allowing room for a Router Table, or your sander at end-of-run.


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## retfr8flyr (Oct 30, 2013)

My shop area is not as large as yours so I just move the DC hose to each machine as I use it. I am restricted to 110 for my DC, as I only have one 220v outlet and need that for whichever machine I am using. I have the Jet 1100VX-CK 1 1/2 HP DC, this DC has the cyclone action as well as decent CFM. I have been very happy with this DC and it does a great job for me. I have filled the bag many times and nothing seems to get by the filter back into the room. Almost everything goes into the bag, when I use the filter scraper almost nothing appears. With 220v available the 1200VX 2 HP model would be even better.


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## Woodtechie (Dec 8, 2013)

Doing the math, if I get a 2HP single stage + the Oneida the price is comparable to a Cyclone, but wouldn't the Oneida separator reduce CFM the same as an out-of-the-box Cyclone?

@reedwood You make a good point with the table saw turnaround, I was thinking about bringing in 4×8 ply from the door, but really 99% of my TS time is spent doing stuff other than that.


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## Woodtechie (Dec 8, 2013)

If I chop up my workbench, make it into two smaller benches, and add a router table…










I feel like the jointer is is an odd spot on that layout. Also cutting 4×8 on the TS might be an issue.

This one I'm starting to like the more I think about it, makes good use of that odd corner in the brick wall there, and it even leaves some window wall space left over for future expansion. Keeps hose runs (other than to the router) very short.










That garage door could be an issue for hanging hose that far up, so the TS might need to move back some. TS dust outlet is actually on the back, so it's fewer turns I think.










I'm starting to hate this built-in bench in the back (with the Miter saw). Original homeowner put that in but it's limiting my ability to place more important things by the wall. And it's way too damn high.


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

In the top layout, I like the jointer in the floor and not on the wall. I am in the process of moving mine from the wall and out into the floor. I plan to turn mine 180 deg. from the way you show yours. I want to be able to walk straight from the table saw to the jointer without walking around anything. In my shop I am going to put the planer out there on the fence side of the jointer. Outfit a dozen shops and I suspect you would use a dozen different layouts.


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## Woodtechie (Dec 8, 2013)

Turning the TS 180 deg. would be nice, but I'd be introducing a big turn towards the DC since dust comes out the back of the TS. Then again if I go to the ceiling it's going to be pretty indirect anyway.

And I just realized this leaves that sander way out alone - that thing is terrible with creating dust. Make a little table and squeeze that in between the bandsaw and DC? I'm having too much fun with this.


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## shawnmasterson (Jan 24, 2013)

I personally like the layout with the TS right in the middle with the outfeed towards the door. I would put the jointer on the left side of the TS and have the DC drop down from the ceiling between the two. From there I would move the DC into the front left corner and put the scroll saw where the DC is. The easier it is to empty the DC the more likely you are to keep up with it, it will help keep the run short, and you can easily hook up the RT to the DC. My RT is one of the messier tools I have. The placement of the sander may be in the way of the chop saw. Maybe a flip top bench is in you future. This is just my thoughts from rearranging my place so many times. good luck and have fun with it.


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## MJCD (Nov 28, 2011)

Certainly, personal preference is the trump card - we all have to feel at-home in our shops.

I've run the Oneida SDD for many projects, and have not experienced a noticeable drop in CFM - though, I'm sure there's a drop: the SDD has a 6" outlet and 5" inlet, which is substantial. Regarding the 4×8 - it depends on the work you do. For me, the two most over-rated requirements within a shop are Resaw Capability of a bandsaw, and the frequency of cutting-down a 4×8 sheet - for the few times that I work with a full sheet, I cut it down with a straight-edge and a circular saw, then process the pieces on the TS: this frees-up tremendous space in my shop.

The configuration that I use is a 1.5hp 50-760 Delta (about $500), the SDD ($250), and the Wynn Nanos ($175): all-in about $925: I'm not sure you can get a 2hp cyclone with the Nanos for this amount; though, I haven't checked.

Again, we individually need to feel at-home in our shops, and we each have both a personal budget for things like this, and sensitivities on CFM vs. Filters vs. Brands.

In my opinion, you're asking the correct questions; keeping an open mind; working the alternatives and the details - when you're done, you'll have your best value in-the-shop.


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## Woodtechie (Dec 8, 2013)

Does anyone here have a DC which vents outside? Would it be a bad idea to buy a cheap plain 2HP DC, separate the motor from the filter & bag, extend the connecting tube through a window, and put the filter & bag outside on a (screened) porch out back?

If I move the DC to the original back left corner, I could do this. The windows behind the miter saw go to a screened porch. I'd just need to build a little housing to hold the bag & filter up. What I'm concerned about is mainly weather. But that would save some money big time.

Hell I'd stick the whole thing out on that porch if I could-it's pretty big (wide as the garage)-but yeah, weather… (and annoyed neighbors in that case).


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## shawnmasterson (Jan 24, 2013)

Venting outside is a preference usually depending on closeness of neighbors, and whether or not you condition the air in the shop (heat & air). If you heat it then you are sucking the heat right out, and depending on how you heat you would cause a negative draft. either gas fumes, or smoke if you heat with wood. just food for thought.


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## Woodtechie (Dec 8, 2013)

Garage is attached (I usually leave the door to the house open), but honestly since the garage isn't heated, if anything that'd be a bonus! I've been considering running a vent into the garage to heat it anyway.

Since it's cheap I wouldn't feel bad buying a better one later if I need to. Neighbors are pretty close (probably 50 ft), so I'd still have to leave the filter and bag connected, but air quality wise it's ideal.. and cheaper.

Something like this maybe...


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

*"...Neighbors are pretty close (probably 50 ft), so I'd still have to leave the filter and bag connected, but air quality wise it's ideal.. and cheaper…."*

I would nix any straight venting outside. Surely you don't think that "...air quality wise it's ideal…" for your neighbors, do you?

With the abundance of hazardous air/dust pollution information on the Internet AND the high rate of litigation from individuals, HOAs, POAs, and city/county/State and local governments, do you REALLY want to set yourself up for the chance of a lawsuit? Just saying…


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## Woodtechie (Dec 8, 2013)

Well, I think the difference is that most people venting leave the filter and bag off the end, right? I was thinking I'd just leave those on (inside the screened porch I have back there), so it shouldn't be anything visible. But yeah that is something to think about, they seem the type that might be smokers and you never know if someone might try something funny.


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## mbs (May 8, 2010)

I have a similar size shop with a 2 hp jet, thien top hat separator and a thein separator inside the Jet chamber, and a wynn filter. IMHO there isnt enough hp from the jet. It picks up the chips but not the fines as well as I would like. I may remove the internal thein to see if there is an improvement.

BTW - there are a lot of used dust collections systems for sale in my area (phoenix) that could reduce your cost.

My favorite layout for a small shop is to put the jointer, planer and table saw in front of the garage door facing outward. The jointer and planer can sit right next to each other with no space between them. Or, the jointer could sit next to the table saw depending on the height. Or the planer could sit UNDER your table saw extension table. feeding the work outside maximizes the use of inside space by using the carport as the outfeed workspace. And it minimizes the DC pipe run to those three machines. This setup works well if you live in a climate that's conducive to working outside.


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## reedwood (Jan 27, 2011)

uh, ......I'm not sure if you can install a supply vent in the attached garage.

You can but, it's a bad idea and definitely not to code. Remember, you are conditioning the air in an enclosed environment so the air you pump in will be sucked back in the house to the closest return vent - if it works at all. Depends on if the door to the garage is air tight or open. If there is ever a car or gas powered machines stored in this space, the fumes may be a problem. If you sell the house, you will probably have to remove it.

I'll bet the house furnace wasn't sized/designed to handle the additional square footage. And…. having fine dust wafting through your house and landing on your pillow and wife's knick knacks is not good. (if you can't tell, I have this thing about dust on my pillow.)

Stick with finding a separate heat source and keep the wife happy and your pillow dust free.

venting outside = a fan in the window. Having a dust collector screaming outside my neighbor's garage would not go over very well so I sure wouldn't do it to him. There is no good reason to do this as far as I can tell.

Last picture - that work bench behind the table saw looks good on a drawing but you really need to keep this area wide open. My desire would be to be able to rip a 4×8 in half long ways by myself. That means 8 ft. clearance behind the saw. It applies to 8ft. 1x material too. If I clear my bench behind my saw, I can rip a 11 ft. board without moving the saw.

Idea: Having your bench butted to the TS end like a T creates a much bigger work area too.

enjoying the conversation.


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## Woodtechie (Dec 8, 2013)

I'm in Virginia, so wild temp swings in both directions for about half of the year (not quite "southern"-its 27 deg now). I like to keep the door closed so nobody can see my expensive crap. Thieves are usually as dumb as a rock, but I don't want to chance that one of those idiots knows what smaller items like clamps, router stuff etc can add up to. 

"how about the center of the room? That's what I did. This avoided the toe grabbing 4" flex hose across the floor." -reedwood










Starting to understand this now. This would be a pain to empty the collector as it is above, but by sacrificing ability to cut 4×8 with the TS it frees up so much wall space for workbenches. I don't mind using a circular for ply if I have the floor space.

I'd have to run power along the floor from the walls. Might have issues with the stupid garage door opener if I got a big Cyclone - that damn thing is TALL.

If I did a central setup like this - would the smaller 1.5HP Cyclone I was looking at originally be feasible?

Edit: @reedwood - Cars aren't allowed in this garage.  I think I'm scrapping the external venting.


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## Oosik (Oct 16, 2013)

I'm very interested to see what you decide. I'm in the same dilemma as I plan out my shop in a 3 car tandem garage. The cyclones appear to be about the same cost as adding up a SDD and Wynn filter with other Dust Collectors.

I spoke with Grizzly yesterday and the impression I got was if you are running one tool the 703 is enough for just about anything but more CFM is always better. Goes along with the saying buy as much as you can afford that I'm hearing. Please let me know what you decided because I'm about to go a similar route.

Woodtechie, what program do you use for garage layout?


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## reedwood (Jan 27, 2011)

Ha! sorry. that looks like the beginning of Musical chairs for woodworking machines.

Ready?.....go! ha!.... never mind.

I didn't mean dead center. Take a look at my workshop layout. I haven't done a fancy drawing like this yet.

It's all about the table saw capacity first. Everything else works off that. My DC is at the end of my 3.5×8 work bench which Ts off the 50" biesmeyer table. My router table is at the other end.

The DC is easy to access, it's out of the way, it's "centered" to avoid the hose issue and I could rip a 4×8 in half in either direction - whether I want to do it that way is not really the point. Like others, I like to use a clamp guide and cut down plywood pieces with a 60T blade on a skill saw. But I cut it on top of the saw with 1×1 strips so I still need the support and space.

where is the planer?


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## Woodtechie (Dec 8, 2013)

@Oosik - I used SketchUp to do the layouts (you can even import models from a Google 3D Warehouse, that's where most of that came from).. and it's free. Good to hear about the 703 Grizzly.

@reedwood
I'm just getting started with the possibilities of this type of layout, the first try (above) wasn't optimal. I can see myself moving these things around for awhile, I have a perfectionist/"optimization-ist" side - haha.

Planer (and drum sander) are going to remain on the "wish list" for a little longer, so I'll cross that bridge later. Never used a jointer but from what I've read they seem a little more useful (I could have used one before, I know). I couldn't find a picture of your shop layout.


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## Woodtechie (Dec 8, 2013)

I'm probably not understanding the layout description you're giving, reedwood:


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## reedwood (Jan 27, 2011)

You got me trying to draw a picture in sketch up. Geez…..I'll be busy for the next 5 hours.

If you look at my home profile under woodshop, you'll see pictures of what I have set up. Not saying it's the best because, like everyone else, I'm constantly changing it. My work centers around remodeling and high end cabinetry so the 4×8 capacity is a big deal for me. Having a nice miter box stand/ bench is also a big plus.

The drum sander is one of those tools you think you need like a RAS but you really don't. Takes up way to much room and they are expensive. You definitely need a Planer, the 3rd. most important tool in the shop.

If I was a box maker or Lathe guy I might do something different.


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## Woodtechie (Dec 8, 2013)

hehehehe

Yeah I may go a different direction, I'm more interested in boxes (want a small Lathe - even the wife has some interest there, for pen turning), but I'm also still experimenting with different stuff such as furniture. Lots of plans for stuff we need but I refuse to buy-I should make those, damnit!

I hate being limited and whenever I buy cheap I end up regretting it and upgrading later, so I try to just buy the largest/best I think I'll ever possibly need if I can afford it.


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## Woodtechie (Dec 8, 2013)

Here's a try inspired by reedwood's layout. Since I have less room (22×22 approx) I ended up moving the big table between the DC and router to the wall in front of the TS. I'm not 100% sure where to place that router table but it's a halfway point to the 'musical chairs' version vs everything on the walls. Maybe if I switch the router table and bandsaw…


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## reedwood (Jan 27, 2011)

well …..... You really shouldn't have the jointer or any tool on the left of the TS. That's your work area. You have to walk front to back constantly right there.

The table saw ends up, reluctantly becoming a work bench at times and you need that space.

The band saw can be put on a rolling stand and stuck anywhere. It hardly needs any room, same as the drill press.
The router table needs a good 6 ft. clearance on either side with the ability to drag it on an angle to route 8ft. or longer. The miter box stand/ bench is a must, especially if you can build in a stop for multiple cuts. This is the most used tool.

I have a rolling stand for the Delta 2 spd. planer (Great machine!) but I prefer to just sit it on top of my 50" TS side table. I can move it out of the way if needed and it's up high and easy to work with and hook up to the dust collector. I would consider getting a DC like mine and use the extra dough to buy a decent planer. Dewalt planers are nice too.

Btw - you'll need to figure in a place to store sheet goods and lumber.


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## Woodtechie (Dec 8, 2013)

Yeah, I didn't notice a jointer or bandsaw in your shop so they kind of complicated my efforts.

Good thing is, almost everything other than the tables is going to be on wheels.


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## Dal300 (Aug 4, 2011)

One thing you seem to have forgotten, and believe me, I'm not jumping on you, how are you going to hook all these pieces up to the DC?
I don't see any hookups anyplace.
Every 90° bend is adding the equivalent of a 20' section of pipe.
Using accordion folded tubes like cheap heat vent line is even worse.

I put my DC in the center of the end of the mid point of the shop.
Almost every tool is is connected with less than 2' of accordion flex hose and only one 90° elbow of Sched 40 PVC.
Total straight line run is TS, planer, Router table, DP, band saw, plus a hookup for the incoming new TS… 10'

I keep everything centered, Assembly table is just short enough I can clamp my rollers to it and it works as an extended off-feed table.


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## reedwood (Jan 27, 2011)

Here are a few pictures that show my layout. This represents about 30 years worth of changes and I'm about to rebuild the slat wall again. Santa brought me a 42" flat screen. It never ends!














































!









in production:


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## Woodtechie (Dec 8, 2013)

Thanks, that's a much better view, looks great. Now I'm starting to feel weird getting an 8" jointer-larger than what you have-simply "just in case" and because it fits the budget. I'm just a weekend amateur at this.

Your DC looks a lot like the one I"m now looking at from Grizzly - G0548ZP 2HP. Just a regular single stage but the CFM and static pressure are 1700 and 10", with a (claimed) 1 micron filter for much cheaper than a cyclone. I can always add a baffle later on.


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## Woodtechie (Dec 8, 2013)

@Dallas - Oh I've been thinking of that with each layout, just didn't spend the time drawing that in.
I'm probably going to end up with some of the folded accordion tube sections to start with, after I have a good working setup then I can do some upgrades. ANY dedicated DC is going to be a hundred times better than virtually nothing (stupid shop vac) which is what I have now.


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