# Question on T-Slots and T-Tracks



## PresidentsDad (Sep 21, 2017)

All,
Thinking of building a jig and rather than using the method that the plans call for, I was going to get a t-slot bit and route it at the router table. The question….is there a t-slot bit that will allow both a 1/4-20 hex bolt AND a 1/4-20 T bolt?


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## WoodenDreams (Aug 23, 2018)

Whiteside has T-Slot router bits. #3070, and #3075. whitesiderouterbits.com. I get my Whiteside bits locally https://www.woodstocksupply.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Whiteside+3070


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## FirehouseWoodworking (Jun 9, 2009)

Typically, T-slot cutter bits are made to accommodate T-bolts which have a thinner cross section of the head.

If you want to cut the slot for bolts, you make the first pass, then lower (or raise) the bit for the second pass. This should accommodate the bolt head cross section.

And as a recommendation, when you are routing your slots, start with a STRAIGHT bit of the appropriate diameter. Make the cut in shallow passes. Once you have the depth, switch over to the slot cutting bit and finish it off.

There is a lot of material to remove and because of the cross section, the wood dust does not have an easy path of escape.

Cheers!


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

My T-slot tracks all accept 1/4-20 and regular T-Bolts. Something I've been using lately that I much prefer to T-slots for jigs is this: https://store.microjig.com/products/matchfit-dovetail-hardware-variety-pack

I used them on a dado jig for my router and it was a big improvement over the bolts, knobs, etc, that my first one used. You can see it here: https://www.lumberjocks.com/RichTaylor/blog/129995


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## PresidentsDad (Sep 21, 2017)

> Typically, T-slot cutter bits are made to accommodate T-bolts which have a thinner cross section of the head.
> 
> If you want to cut the slot for bolts, you make the first pass, then lower (or raise) the bit for the second pass. This should accommodate the bolt head cross section.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the advice!


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## WoodenDreams (Aug 23, 2018)

One method which is to use a 3/4" straight router bit and route to a depth to fit a t-tract, this one will accept 1/4 bolts and the T-bolts https://www.rockler.com/universal-t-track-universal-t-track. I do have a T-slot router bit, and I've also used the Rocker 17 piece T-tract kits to make jigs that I got on sale for $19 each a year ago


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## PresidentsDad (Sep 21, 2017)

I was looking to avoid purchasing t-track altogether and just route the T directly into the workpiece/jig/etc.


> One method which is to use a 3/4" straight router bit and route to a depth to fit a t-tract, this one will accept 1/4 bolts and the T-bolts https://www.rockler.com/universal-t-track-universal-t-track. I do have a T-slot router bit, and I ve also used the Rocker 17 piece T-tract kits to make jigs that I got on sale for $19 each a year ago
> 
> - WoodenDreams


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

I have cut T-slots to use in jigs. However, I do not care to use a standard bolt on them as they can pull thru. T-bolts are much better.


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

I like using dovetail slots. They can be a little fiddly to size right though. I think that they tend to be a little stronger than a wood T-track. I have pulled t-bolts right through the tracks when I cranked down a little too hard. I have never had that happen with a dovetail track. One nice thing is that you can also cut your own slides for them though they probably don't slide as nicely as the ones that Rich linked to. I suppose you could make the slides out of UHDW.


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## PresidentsDad (Sep 21, 2017)

> I like using dovetail slots. They can be a little fiddly to size right though. I think that they tend to be a little stronger than a wood T-track. I have pulled t-bolts right through the tracks when I cranked down a little too hard. I have never had that happen with a dovetail track. One nice thing is that you can also cut your own slides for them though they probably don t slide as nicely as the ones that Rich linked to. I suppose you could make the slides out of UHDW.
> 
> - Lazyman


Thanks. I assume you are using the MicroJig MatchFit Dovetail system? Have you made any "tracks" yourself? How easy is it to get the bit centered where you need it?


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## roofner (Feb 24, 2012)

I have bought the clamps from micro jig and some of the accessories.



> My T-slot tracks all accept 1/4-20 and regular T-Bolts. Something I ve been using lately that I much prefer to T-slots for jigs is this: https://store.microjig.com/products/matchfit-dovetail-hardware-variety-pack
> 
> I used them on a dado jig for my router and it was a big improvement over the bolts, knobs, etc, that my first one used. You can see it here: https://www.lumberjocks.com/RichTaylor/blog/129995
> 
> - Rich


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

How much force will be applied to your t-track on this jig? One thing people overlook when routing the profile rather than using a track is that the wood won't hold up to being pulled on like metal will. The "wings" will break off. If the track is for a stop block or feather boards or something like that, it's one situation because you're compressing the weak part of the profile when you tighten down. But, if it's for hold-down clamps for instance, you're pulling on the weak section. Just a heads-up for something that is often overlooked.

FWIW, t-track is cheap. I have a router bit that I used to put track for featherboards on my router table fence. That was probably the only time it will ever be used. The track is just too inexpensive and too easy to install IMO. The only reason I can think of that I would route the profile instead of installing track is if the material was just too thin.


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

> I like using dovetail slots. They can be a little fiddly to size right though. I think that they tend to be a little stronger than a wood T-track. I have pulled t-bolts right through the tracks when I cranked down a little too hard. I have never had that happen with a dovetail track. One nice thing is that you can also cut your own slides for them though they probably don t slide as nicely as the ones that Rich linked to. I suppose you could make the slides out of UHDW.
> 
> - Lazyman
> 
> ...


No, I usually just cut my own track and slide, though the MicroJig system is probably much easier. My jigs are usually one-off devices that don't get used for more than a short time and I have not bothered to buy their system because I don't think far enough ahead to buy them in advance. Getting the slot centered is about the same as using a straight bit to cut a dado. The slide is a little more difficult because you want it tight fit but it has to be loose enough to slide, though as long as you don't need it to be flush when it is tightened, it doesn't need to be exact.

Kenny makes a good point. If you need to be able to crank it down really tight, especially for something you will use over and over, the aluminum T-track is the way to go.


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

I have cut them with the T-slot router bit but they are not very strong and can break. For some applications, they are OK but others you need a metal track.


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## PresidentsDad (Sep 21, 2017)

Has anyone actually cut the dovetail slots and used the microjig dovetail clamps?


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

It looks like Rich has (^post #3)


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## PresidentsDad (Sep 21, 2017)

Hey Rich. Was it difficult to get the dovetails centered?


> My T-slot tracks all accept 1/4-20 and regular T-Bolts. Something I ve been using lately that I much prefer to T-slots for jigs is this: https://store.microjig.com/products/matchfit-dovetail-hardware-variety-pack
> 
> I used them on a dado jig for my router and it was a big improvement over the bolts, knobs, etc, that my first one used. You can see it here: https://www.lumberjocks.com/RichTaylor/blog/129995
> 
> - Rich


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

I'll start with HokieKen's comment about strength. Yes that is a huge factor. I did the dovetail groove in some MDF and hoped to use the MicroJig clamps, but they pulled right out. I've done them in ply and they are stronger, but not foolproof. In solid wood (alder) they are pretty strong-enough for most jigs and fixtures. But Ken is right that it'll never equal what you can do with real t-track.

Back to the OP-like Nathan said, yes I have. It's an awesome system. I've got more clamps and their hardware kits on order.

OP again-it's not hard to get them centered. Just make sure not to move your fence between doing the 1/4" cut to clear the waste and then installing the dovetail bit for the final pass.


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## tvrgeek (Nov 19, 2013)

Done T-slots but only in very thick 9-ply. I prefer an aluminum track. I use T-slot bolts as the hex heads can spin too easy and of course, easier to pull out as was mentioned. I also like tracks as I like HDPE guides.


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