# Which block plane?



## HarveyDunn (Aug 29, 2013)

About to make my first foray into handplanes. I want to do things like trim joinery and round over edges. I'm working on small items, not big pieces of furniture.

What would you recommend? A search of this site revealed a lot of enthusiasm for the Lee Valley Low Angle Block Plane.


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Been using both a Stanley No. 60-1/2 low angle block plane….and a Stanley No. 9-1/2 Standard Angle block plane…

Question would be how you want to sharpen said planes…

Also, be careful…these little planes tend to breed like rabbits ….instead of 2 sitting around…you'll soon wind up with a dozen of the little buggers…DAMHIKT….


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## xedos (Apr 25, 2020)

For small work as you describe and in my hand; nothing feels better than this gem:

https://www.lie-nielsen.com/products/small-block-planes?path=handplanes&node=4063

For larger work; this one:

https://www.lie-nielsen.com/products/rabbet-block-plane-w-nicker?path=handplanes&node=4063

But you have to use it. So best that you go out and try them to see which feels best in your hand.


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## MarioF (Feb 6, 2009)

Hands down the Lie-Nielsen 102, an everyday workhorse around this workshop


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## rad457 (Jun 15, 2013)

Love my L.N. 102, but the Veritas apron plane comed with the PMV-11 iron? Might also want to look at a 
Stanley #103 or the Millers Falls #75, both great little planes and very affordable on E-Bay.


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Plenty of choices out there….and you avoid all the sales hype, to boot..


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## HarveyDunn (Aug 29, 2013)

> Question would be how you want to sharpen said planes…
> 
> - bandit571


I'm thinking about getting a Worksharp3000


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

I use a plane occasionally and like my Stanley 60-1/2. I sharpen on a Worksharp.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

I have a couple of knuckle joint block planes I like. Stanley's may be pricier but other brands can be got for not that much. They have a great feel in the hand.

I like the idea of the Lee Valley planes with the accessory handle you can put on the back. You pay a premium for all of it but it looks like a useful plane, particularly for making guitars.


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## HarveyDunn (Aug 29, 2013)

Loren, what is the point of that accessory handle?


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

I think it gives you more options for holding the plane. I think luthier Brian Burns recommended it. I use his sharpening system so that's why I was intrigued.

The whole setup would be over $200 and I've got by ok with the stuff I have so I have not pulled the trigger.


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## woodbutcherbynight (Oct 21, 2011)

> Been using both a Stanley No. 60-1/2 low angle block plane….and a Stanley No. 9-1/2 Standard Angle block plane…
> 
> Question would be how you want to sharpen said planes…
> 
> ...


Sage advice. Got to think ahead on this part. Sure you have the plane but it will get dull and so you need to be prepared. Also they do seem to breed. Due to an wrist and arm injury I have not used hand planes. Last year someone came over and worked with my particular issue and we came up with a way to operate a hand plane and not be in pain for a few days. In that time I have acquired these beauties. Already had a way to sharpen so that was not an issue. The fourth one was on the table at the time, it is a Wood River #4. Thanks to the generosity of some fellow woodworkers, (I suspect more to get me addicted to hand tools) all these were given to me. My next acquisition will be a joiner plane of some model.


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## sansoo22 (May 7, 2019)

That is what happens when you leave them alone in the dark with no adult supervision.

The blue 60-1/2 is my go to block plane. I don't know why i have so many. Maybe because I'm lazy? Nearly all of them have adjustable mouths but I tend to leave them setup for varying thickness of cut and just grab the one I need for the task at hand.


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## SMP (Aug 29, 2018)

I know Chris Schwarz raves about the Lie Nielsen 60 1/2 being the best block plane ever made. I have an old Stanley 60 1/2 and it does everything i need from a block plane. I wouldn't mind getting one of the little 102s or violin makers for luthier work etc. I have a really old 19 as well that i never use. I also have a Slickplane that works great for rounding over and chamfering.


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## HarveyDunn (Aug 29, 2013)

> I also have a Slickplane that works great for rounding over and chamfering.
> 
> - SMP


I just googled that. looks interesting. how do you sharpen the curved irons, and how quickly do they dull?


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## SMP (Aug 29, 2018)

> I also have a Slickplane that works great for rounding over and chamfering.
> 
> - SMP
> 
> ...


Tbh, i haven't needed to sharpen them. I picked up an extra set of curved and a set of the chamfer blades once because I think it was Rockler that had them on sale for $10. I just barely knock the corner off so they don't seem to get much wear since they are carbide. Since they are carbide I probably wouldn't try to sharpen. I've probably had this close to 10 years? For $15 just replace the blades every 5-10 years:
https://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-W1101-8-Inch-Slickplane-Replacement/dp/B0000DD0TT/ref=pd_aw_fbt_img_3/137-2761186-8550936?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0000DD0TT&pd_rd_r=ff4dda1f-5ac3-4784-ba8b-b6b4e6050837&pd_rd_w=Svual&pd_rd_wg=QVr9t&pf_rd_p=8ad921d8-8b3b-4c8e-be01-c425a146feba&pf_rd_r=6Y8BBFCWGHJ5AKVCE6N7&psc=1&refRID=6Y8BBFCWGHJ5AKVCE6N7


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## woodbutcherbynight (Oct 21, 2011)

> I also have a Slickplane that works great for rounding over and chamfering.
> 
> - SMP
> 
> ...


Great you had to post the weblink, then I HAD to go and look. Yup, ordered the plane. Bloody addicted.

LOL


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## BurlyBob (Mar 13, 2012)

I'm a big fan of a 60 1/2. I use it more than all my others put together.


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## Foghorn (Jan 30, 2020)

> I think it gives you more options for holding the plane. I think luthier Brian Burns recommended it. I use his sharpening system so that s why I was intrigued.
> 
> The whole setup would be over $200 and I ve got by ok with the stuff I have so I have not pulled the trigger.
> 
> - Loren


I have the knob and tote for my Veritas block plane. Makes it into a small smoother. Love the plane but a little large for some tasks. My LN 102 is my most used block plane. Small and handy. If I didn't have it, I'm sure the Veritas apron plane would work as well.


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## Axis39 (Jul 3, 2019)

I have an old Miller's Falls 57, that was my grandfathers. Man, it feels good in the hands.

I also have a Stanley 60 1/2 that needs the little tension piece for the lever cap. One of these days, that'll hit the top of the priority list.

If I were to buy new, especially if it was my first and only, I'd probably go with a skew blade and a fence. Veritas, Lie Neilson, Wood River all seem pretty good, LN is usually put up as the best, I've never owned any of the new ones. But, drool over them all the time.


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## Foghorn (Jan 30, 2020)

> I have an old Miller s Falls 57, that was my grandfathers. Man, it feels good in the hands.
> 
> I also have a Stanley 60 1/2 that needs the little tension piece for the lever cap. One of these days, that ll hit the top of the priority list.
> 
> ...


I wouldn't put Woodriver in the same sentence as Lie Nielsen or Veritas. Between those two, it's user preference as they are both of the highest quality.


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

> I wouldn t put Woodriver in the same sentence as Lie Nielsen or Veritas. Between those two, it s user preference as they are both of the highest quality.
> 
> - Foghorn


While Woodriver is not in the same class as LV and LN, they are still solid planes and a good choice for the budget conscious. Their main issue is the extra tuning required to get them set up. Sole flattening, mouth tuning, etc.

I know he's a paid spokesman, but the results I see Rob Cosman achieve with Woodriver planes is impressive.

No plane will produce acceptable results if the user doesn't know how to handle it.


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## woodbutcherbynight (Oct 21, 2011)

> While Woodriver is not in the same class as LV and LN, they are still solid planes and a good choice for the budget conscious. Their main issue is the extra tuning required to get them set up. Sole flattening, mouth tuning, etc.
> 
> I know he s a paid spokesman, but the results I see Rob Cosman achieve with Woodriver planes is impressive.
> 
> ...


That is what I found as well with the two Wood River planes I have. Did some tuning and minor sole flattening. Produced nice ribbons.

Way lighter than anything else I have handled but for smoothing out pine edge banding on plywood, and be lightweight, not too bad.


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## Tony_S (Dec 16, 2009)

> No plane will produce acceptable results if the user doesn t know how to handle it.
> - Rich


And a big part of that is how it fits your hand. 
I bought a Veritas DX60 when they first came on the market(8-10years?) It felt different in my hand compared to the Stanley's I was accustomed to , but I thought I would get used to it. It was too sexy to pass up! 
I tried like hell to love that block plane, but It didn't happen. Today, I'll reach for the old Stanley every time.


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## LeeRoyMan (Feb 23, 2019)

> Today, I ll reach for the old Stanley every time.
> 
> - Tony_S


I always go for the com plane.
After I'm done using it that's all I do.


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## Foghorn (Jan 30, 2020)

> I wouldn t put Woodriver in the same sentence as Lie Nielsen or Veritas. Between those two, it s user preference as they are both of the highest quality.
> 
> - Foghorn
> 
> ...


I agree with that. It's the difference between a Cadillac and a Caprice. They'll both get you there but one will do it with more style and a smoother ride!


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## drsurfrat (Aug 17, 2020)

I'm also in the 60 1/2 camp. I usually could find used Stanleys for about $30 on eBay, but that was a while ago. and they weren't perfect.

Like SMP, I almost never use my regular block anymore.

Do you have a sharpening setup? I get mine arm-shaving sharp, and it lasts for a couple weeks of sporadic use. A lot of endgrain work makes that time shorter.


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## BigMig (Mar 31, 2011)

Like Xedos, I love the small Lie Nielsen bronze block plane.

For a block plane with the adjustable mouth, I got a new Stanley 60 1/2 several years ago. It's a very nice tool, and significantly less $$ than a Lie Nielsen or Lee Valley. My Stanley is terrific. And I think it can be ordered through HD for about $80 !


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## xedos (Apr 25, 2020)

One thing guys should keep in mind about the L.N. 60 1/2 I linked is that that it's a rabbeting plane.

This make it much more versatile than a standard 60-1/2.


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

If I were going to have one block plane, I'd go with a skewed rabbeting one like a vintage Stanley 140 or Millers Falls 07 or a new Veritas one. The rabbeting ability is handy for rabbets and tenon cheeks/shoulders, the 12 degree bed angle is the business for endgrain and the skewed blade is great for gnarly grain or going cross-grain. The tradeoff is that it's a little trickier to sharpen and fettle. But it's a price worth paying in my book


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

Just be aware that the skew rabbet block planes are very hungry little beasts, and you will get bitten, probably multiple times, if you get one.


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## xedos (Apr 25, 2020)

> If I were going to have one block plane, I d go with a skewed rabbeting one like a vintage Stanley 140 or Millers Falls 07 or a new Veritas one. The rabbeting ability is handy for rabbets and tenon cheeks/shoulders, the 12 degree bed angle is the business for endgrain and the skewed blade is great for gnarly grain or going cross-grain. The tradeoff is that it s a little trickier to sharpen and fettle. But it s a price worth paying in my book
> 
> - HokieKen


...................except you'll need a left AND a right handed version if you want to do shoulder and cheeks with that type plane. So, two times the money, two times the space, and then ya gotta start swapping on some jobs.


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## rad457 (Jun 15, 2013)

> If I were going to have one block plane, I d go with a skewed rabbeting one like a vintage Stanley 140 or Millers Falls 07 or a new Veritas one. The rabbeting ability is handy for rabbets and tenon cheeks/shoulders, the 12 degree bed angle is the business for endgrain and the skewed blade is great for gnarly grain or going cross-grain. The tradeoff is that it s a little trickier to sharpen and fettle. But it s a price worth paying in my book
> 
> - HokieKen
> 
> ...


Shoulders and cheeks are end grain, skew blade has no problem with it?

Yes the sharpening is a real pain, NOS iron out by over an 1/8" "(


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## Foghorn (Jan 30, 2020)

> If I were going to have one block plane, I d go with a skewed rabbeting one like a vintage Stanley 140 or Millers Falls 07 or a new Veritas one. The rabbeting ability is handy for rabbets and tenon cheeks/shoulders, the 12 degree bed angle is the business for endgrain and the skewed blade is great for gnarly grain or going cross-grain. The tradeoff is that it s a little trickier to sharpen and fettle. But it s a price worth paying in my book
> 
> - HokieKen


If I didn't already have a couple of Veritas shoulder planes, I would agree with you. Maybe I can sneak at least the right handed one by the old hide! (good thing she doesn't check out this site


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## SMP (Aug 29, 2018)

> One thing guys should keep in mind about the L.N. 60 1/2 I linked is that that it s a rabbeting plane.
> 
> This make it much more versatile than a standard 60-1/2.
> 
> - xedos


Well maybe not "more" versatile, but different. No adjustable mouth, so in some ways less versatile. The problem I have with that one is the part where I normally hold a block plane greets my fingers with razor blades, lol.


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

> If I were going to have one block plane, I d go with a skewed rabbeting one like a vintage Stanley 140 or Millers Falls 07 or a new Veritas one. The rabbeting ability is handy for rabbets and tenon cheeks/shoulders, the 12 degree bed angle is the business for endgrain and the skewed blade is great for gnarly grain or going cross-grain. The tradeoff is that it s a little trickier to sharpen and fettle. But it s a price worth paying in my book
> 
> - HokieKen
> 
> ...


Maybe. But I never have. The low pitch angle handles the end grain of the shoulders fine and the skewed blade handles cross grain cuts on the cheeks pretty easily. I always assumed the two versions were for comfort more than functionality. The vintage ones only came in one flavor and that's what I use.


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## Unknowncraftsman (Jun 23, 2013)

I like the Lie Neilson block planes they are a little bit heavier then vintage I think it's a advantage.









These are my two planes I use the most.


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

And mine…









been using the 60-1/2 lately the other is the larger No. 9-1/2 that Rex Krueger loves…









Both have an adjustable mouth..as does this one..









Stanley No. 18….


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## AMZ (Jan 27, 2020)

> Just be aware that the skew rabbet block planes are very hungry little beasts, and you will get bitten, probably multiple times, if you get one.
> 
> - Dave Polaschek


No! They are specialized planes, made primarily to assist you in staining your project a bright red!


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## HarveyDunn (Aug 29, 2013)

Thanks, everyone. Can I ask what the "adjustable mouth" is for and why it is important?


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## drsurfrat (Aug 17, 2020)

It is a plate in the toe of the sole that can slide a bit to open or close the mouth.

https://virginiatoolworks.com/2015/04/20/setting-up-and-tuning-a-block-plane/
See the second to last picture.

You should dive in and start racking up your experience. If not eBay, there are guys here that would set you up with a nice one. You have seen DonW, Sansoo, bandit, HobieKen, etc with drawers full of blocks, and Don has a "for sale" page at timetestedtools.net. I might even find a spare if needed…


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

If the mouth of a plane is too big, it can cause chips to clog it up and can allow tearout. It's much more of an issue for me with bench planes than block planes but it still holds true. Changing your depth of cut, using a thicker or thinner replacement blade, and even your bevel angle can affect the gap in the mouth with a block plane. So the adjustable throat allows you to keep it tight in all cases.

I will add, vintage skewed block planes don't have the adjustable toe which is a reason to go with the Veritas if you're looking for that type of plane. The Norris adjuster on the Veritas allows for lateral adjustment too which is done with a hammer on vintage low-angle block planes.


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## drsurfrat (Aug 17, 2020)

> One thing guys should keep in mind about the L.N. 60 1/2 I linked is that that it s a rabbeting plane.
> 
> This make it much more versatile than a standard 60-1/2.
> 
> - xedos


I was confused, but now know why. L-N has two types of 60-1/2. A regular low angle block and a *separate *rabbeting plane with the same number.


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## SMP (Aug 29, 2018)

> I was confused, but now know why. L-N has two types of 60-1/2. A regular low angle block and a *separate *rabbeting plane with the same number.
> 
> - drsurfrat


The numbering is the same but the rabbeting version has an R at the end(some places catalog it with RN (rabbet w nicker)


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## xedos (Apr 25, 2020)

> If I were going to have one block plane, I d go with a skewed rabbeting one like a vintage Stanley 140 or Millers Falls 07 or a new Veritas one. The rabbeting ability is handy for rabbets and tenon cheeks/shoulders, the 12 degree bed angle is the business for endgrain and the skewed blade is great for gnarly grain or going cross-grain. The tradeoff is that it s a little trickier to sharpen and fettle. But it s a price worth paying in my book
> 
> - HokieKen
> 
> ...


While the skew part may even be ideal for end grain, the closed portion of those planes' trailing edge is going to be problematic on 1/2 of the shoulders and cheeks.


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## MPython (Nov 30, 2018)

Another vote for the Lie-Nielsen #102. It has been the most used plane in my shop for years.


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## drsurfrat (Aug 17, 2020)

SMP - do you want a beater squirrel tail block to play with? No number, gigantically wide mouth, and a solid brass lever cap that I made for probably 50 cents - so you would owe me huge.


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## Bcemail (Jan 3, 2017)

> Been using both a Stanley No. 60-1/2 low angle block plane….and a Stanley No. 9-1/2 Standard Angle block plane…
> 
> Question would be how you want to sharpen said planes…
> 
> - bandit571


Can you expand on the sharpening? Would the different blocks be sharpened differently? Trying to get my first plane or two so want to make sure I know what to get. Was thinking something like a block plane or low angle like you listed, to clean up places where I've got a little ridge, ease a corner, etc. Then maybe something larger like a 5 or 5-1/2 for if I've glued up a small panel? Or for jointing a small edge for glue up?

So much info out there! And a looooot of choices! Thanks!


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## sansoo22 (May 7, 2019)

The skew block planes will be sharpened quite a bit differently. For regular block planes I sharpen them the exact same way I do my bench planes. I put on a 25 deg primary bevel and a 30 deg secondary. I use the same jig, stones, strop, etc. I have quite a few block planes…2 more showed up since you started this post…so some of the low angle blocks I might put a steeper bevel on if I'm setting it up for a specific task.


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Mine had work to do…









Adjusting the fit of a couple raised panels…during a dry fitting up…


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## AMZ (Jan 27, 2020)

Being that this is your first venture into hand planes, I would suggest simple. My choice would be either a Stanley 60-1/2 or a LN or LV "apron" plane. Many of the suggestions here are great for someone with experience under their belt, but might be frustrating when you go to sharpen the blade or use the plane.

If you can locate one, a vintage 60-1/2 would be preferential, with either the LN or LV not far behind. Any of these planes will fit your hand nicely and intuitively. Some may argue the LN and LV have better blades, and some of us would argue differently.

Start slow down this slope, as it is very slippery!


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

> Can you expand on the sharpening? Would the different blocks be sharpened differently? ...
> 
> - Bcemail


No, they will be sharpened the same unless, like Sansoo said, you have a skewed blade then you have to contend with that. But the sharpening media and methods are the same as with any other straight-edged tool. I think Bandit was just pointing out that you should consider it ahead of time and be aware that planes are edged tools and therefore will dull and need to be sharpened. A fact that a lot of people seem to overlook until their tool gets dull and they can't figure out why it doesn't work as well as it used to ;-)


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## Peteybadboy (Jan 23, 2013)

hokieKen

I have the Veritas skew bock plane and an old Stanley low angle (don't see a number on it). As long as either is very sharp they are a pleasure to work with.


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## Peteybadboy (Jan 23, 2013)

hokieKen

I have the Veritas skew bock plane and an old Stanley low angle 12-220?. As long as either is very sharp they are a pleasure to work with.


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## BlueRidgeDog (Jan 2, 2019)

Watch this, pick one, buy it:






I use Lie Neilson. It is the "cry once" solution.

He recommends a 5 1/2 first, but for small work, go for it.


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## controlfreak (Jun 29, 2019)

I started with my fathers old craftsman. I found a stanley bailey No. 5 on a bench where I bought a used joiner and said I'll give you $25 for it. That was twenty three planes ago now.


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## Notw (Aug 7, 2013)

For your first dive into hand planes I personally would not jump straight into Lie Neilson. Find an old stanley plane in decent condition. Watch youtube videos and ask questions and learn how to set it up properly, learn how to flatten the bottom and how to sharpen the blade. Once you have these skills accomplished and have a good worker block plane if you want to then jump into a Lie Neilson. I think I would be scared to learn how to sharpen and flatten with a Lie Neilson. just my 2c


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## TheSnekkerShow (Feb 1, 2020)

My two steel-body block planes are a Stanley G12-060 (low-angle) and G12-247. Looks like they're both sold on some sites as "antique" or "vintage," which is horse crap because I bought mine new when I was a teenager. I had to do some initial minor flattening and polishing on the soles using thick plate glass and sandpaper, but they cut well and hold an edge. The nice thing about hand planes is that the old used ones are probably just as good or better than a lot of the newer ones you'll find in a hardware store. More money will generally get you better materials and a flatter sole out-of-the-box. I've always been able to keep a hair-splitting edge on mine using one of those guides that hold the blade at an angle, an Arkansas stone, and some buffing compound. In 20 years or so I've probably put it on a grinder twice.


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

There is a fellow on Youtube….Rex Krueger….that did a show all about block planes…..the exact opposite of Rob C…..

It is worth a looksee…


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## Bcemail (Jan 3, 2017)

Thanks for all the tips! I see what you mean about the skew angle blades, but I think the other ones I can sharpen as I would my chisels (which I'm still learning).

I'll look around online to see if there are any bargains before I go all in on the Lie Nelsons. I checked eBay, but there are so many it's sort of hard to tell what is worth it. I hear about vintage Stanleys, but I'm sure there's plenty of "vintage" ones out there from 15 years ago that are not great.

Will keep going down the Youtube rabbit hole and then try and decide!

Thanks for all the great help around here!


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## BlueRidgeDog (Jan 2, 2019)

Don't get me wrong on price and value. I started with used tools that I could scrounge on the cheap, but the older planes have such thin blades made of out what is substandard metal (by today's standards). They chatter, dull fast and are often in need of truing up. Spending a bit more for a modern iron and breaker is worth it. Now I don't spend, spend, spend. I typically get a quality hand tool about twice a year as the budget permits.

If it stays sharp twice as long, that makes a big impact in my work. I once would start a plane project and have three blades laid out. Now I can use the same blade for the majority of the work.

I use a 5 1/2, block, skew block, 4 1/2 generally.


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

I agree with BRD. I have Stanley 9-1/2, 65-1/2 and Millers Falls 07 block planes in my till and they all get used regularly. But there's something to be said for a modern plane that you don't have to use a hammer to tweek the iron position and that has a thicker A2 or PMV-11 blade in it.


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## SMP (Aug 29, 2018)

> I agree with BRD. I have Stanley 9-1/2, 65-1/2 and Millers Falls 07 block planes in my till and they all get used regularly. But there s something to be said for a modern plane that you don t have to use a hammer to tweek the iron position and that has a thicker A2 or PMV-11 blade in it.
> 
> - HokieKen


I guess it depends on what you are going to use it for and budget etc. Sure, new premium planes are nice. And if you have a blank check, get one of each size of LN or LV, because why not. However, if you spend $200 on a block plane(which IMHO is of limited use), and then you can't afford a nice smoothing plane, then you have an issue. If I had a limited budget, I would much rather buy a used Stanley block for $30(which does everything I need just fine) and spend the money on a LN or LV smoother. Again, depends on use. If you are making models or small ukuleles or something, maybe a small block plane is your workhorse. For furniture and cabinets etc I really only use one for taking off corners and arrises etc. And sometimes I just use my #3 that I was already using for surface smoothing.
As you say its your first plane purchase, you should look at your overall budget and what planes you are going to need.


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## controlfreak (Jun 29, 2019)

I haven't bought any of the new ones yet but probably will go that route for a shoulder plane or a low angle jack. They don't come around that often and when they do it's $$$. I enjoy honing and fussing, tuning the older ones. Maybe that will change if I buy a new one but for now I am okay


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## AMZ (Jan 27, 2020)

> There is a fellow on Youtube….Rex Krueger….that did a show all about block planes…..the exact opposite of Rob C…..
> 
> It is worth a looksee…
> 
> - bandit571


Rex is a good guy (and in your backyard Bandit). Lots of practical and lowcost advice.


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Block planes?









The whole Fam damily….15 in all….

The "black sheep" of the family?









the "Good Ones"?









And the "Users Group"...









be careful…these like to multiply….if you let them


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## Bcemail (Jan 3, 2017)

That's quite a family Bandit! I better be careful starting out…

Thanks for the tip on Rex, just watched some videos of his which are good. Gave me a better idea of what to search for. Part of problem with getting into planes is just figuring out how everything is named! 5 1/2, 4, 60 1/2, jack, fore smoother… (once I saw a 5, 6, and 7 I assumed 60 1/2 was going to be about the size of a canoe).

Now I know a little more I think I can start whittling down the selection of stuff online. Not as worried about buying some random old thing and hoping it's the right one. Think I will start with some that are older but in good shape so I can practice sharpening and using without breaking the bank. Is eBay just as good as any other site? I'll keep an eye out for local sales too

Thanks again!


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## sansoo22 (May 7, 2019)

Ebay is fine in my opinion. I buy from there quite frequently. Local is often going to be cheaper just because you save on shipping. Most antique tool dealers around me have about the same prices as ebay. The best I can do with them is negotiate a little if I'm buying more than one thing. Buy one nice plane and a couple rusty ones I might get a good deal on the rusty ones.

The cheapest is going to be garage and estates sales. Sometimes you can get some cheap stuff at auctions too. Just depends if any collectors with lots of extra money show up.

If you see a plane you like on ebay and are unsure of quality or have any other questions feel free to ask. Lots of helpful people here can answer those questions for you.


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

> ...
> 
> If you see a plane you like on ebay and are unsure of quality or have any other questions feel free to ask. Lots of helpful people here can answer those questions for you.
> 
> - sansoo22


+1 The Handplanes of Your Dreams thread is a wealth of knowledge and a group of good guys who love nothing more than spending other guys' money ;-) Seriously, it's one of the best places on the internet to get questions answered about anything and everything hand plane related.


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## sansoo22 (May 7, 2019)

I wanted to leave one piece of advice about buying vintage planes. I've been the bearer of bad news a few times on Reddit about this. Always consider the condition of the iron (blade) when purchasing a vintage plane.

Here is an example of a good used iron and a terrible one









The iron on the left has a small amount of pitting on it highlighted by the red arrow. Most likely caused by the chip breaker sitting in the same spot for 70+ yrs. I can work that out without much hassle. The iron on the right is hot garbage. I won't even attempt to flatten that one. It's destined for the trash can. If you paid 10 bucks for the plane who cares. You can buy a vintage iron for around 20 or step up to a PM-V11 for a little more. But if you paid 50, 60, or 100+ bucks on a plane and you have to replace the iron…well that hurts a bit. Been there and done that before.

This was an example of bench planes which have a few more places for saw dust and chips to hide than a block planes does but its something I felt needed mentioning.


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## Bcemail (Jan 3, 2017)

> I wanted to leave one piece of advice about buying vintage planes. I ve been the bearer of bad news a few times on Reddit about this. Always consider the condition of the iron (blade) when purchasing a vintage plane.
> 
> Here is an example of a good used iron and a terrible one
> 
> ...


Thanks for that! How much would you expect to pay for a new iron, maybe one that is good but not top of the line? It can be hard to see the iron in a lot of detail on internet photos, but if I do find one that has a good body but bad iron, maybe it's worth it.

Thanks!


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## sansoo22 (May 7, 2019)

A lot of the cost for irons depends on if its a block plane, bench plane, how big the iron is, and how rare it might be. I wouldn't worry about the rare part if you're buying a user plane. I restore a lot of planes and my customers like to have an original iron it so I'm constantly shopping ebay for replacements. I figure an average of about $25 dollars for a replacement iron of the most common sizes. This includes the 60-1/2, 9-1/2, #4, and #5 size planes. Give or take a few dollars for size and length of the iron.

The other option since you are buying planes to use is look at Hock or Veritas PM-V11 irons. I don't think Veritas makes block plane irons for the older stanleys but they do make nice bench plane irons. Arguable the best out there. I think the PMV-11s cost around $50 and the Hocks cost around $35.


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## SMP (Aug 29, 2018)

For the Stanley block planes I can often find irons for $10-12.


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

I have a drawer filled with older Stanley block plane irons ( and a PEXTO) That I am not using, right now…..


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## rad457 (Jun 15, 2013)

My Stanley 60 1/2 has a PMV-11 iron, the L.N. 102 has a Hock, S.O.L. for the M.F.s 07


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## sansoo22 (May 7, 2019)

> For the Stanley block planes I can often find irons for $10-12.
> 
> - SMP


Which logo on the iron? Last few I've picked up were sweetheart era and cost me around $20. That heart on the iron makes them special I guess.



> My Stanley 60 1/2 has a PMV-11 iron, the L.N. 102 has a Hock, S.O.L. for the M.F.s 07
> 
> - Andre


I was on the site earlier today and didn't see it but once I got smarter and did "Ctrl+F" and searched for "Stanley" i found it.


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

Andre, I may mill up a thicker iron for my 07 one of these days. If I do, I'll make an extra for ya.


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## SMP (Aug 29, 2018)

> For the Stanley block planes I can often find irons for $10-12.
> 
> - SMP
> 
> Which logo on the iron? Last few I ve picked up were sweetheart era and cost me around $20. That heart on the iron makes them special I guess.


Whichever logo is cheapest. I actually buy them to use, not to shove in a drawer so my wife can sell after I die, lol…so i personally couldn't care less if it has a heart or a bear on a bicycle or whatever.


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## sansoo22 (May 7, 2019)

> Whichever logo is cheapest. I actually buy them to use, not to shove in a drawer so my wife can sell after I die, lol…so i personally couldn't care less if it has a heart or a bear on a bicycle or whatever.
> 
> - SMP


Fair point. I buy them to use as well…i guess some go into planes im reselling but i want those to get used too…i just happen to be picky and want the iron to match the age and type of the plane. Its kind of a necessity if im reselling one that it matches.

So…Bcemail…maybe take what I say about costs with a grain of salt unless you are equally picky.


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## CaptainKlutz (Apr 23, 2014)

> I have a drawer filled with older Stanley block plane irons ( and a PEXTO) That I am not using, right now….. - bandit571


 * Bandit* 
If you have a #65 or maybe a #18 with knuckle cap in that unused drawer, we need to talk. 
Really like the feel of knuckle cap vs my regular #60. 
Only knuckle cap block planes I find locally have damaged castings due too much clamp pressure, or the over priced fleabay listings with hidden damage you don't find till you get box opened.

Got so depressed hunting for low angle knuckle cap block plane, moved it to my purple polka dot unicorn list. :-(


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

No. 18 Knuckle cap….sitting next to a Shelton All Steel No. 18…...I prefer the #60-1/2, and the 9-1/2 ones, anyway…


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## SMP (Aug 29, 2018)

> Only knuckle cap block planes I find locally have damaged castings due too much clamp pressure, or the over priced fleabay listings with hidden damage you don t find till you get box opened.
> 
> - CaptainKlutz


Its pretty common for any of the old adjustable mouth block planes to have hairline cracks around the mouth. And a lot of times its hard to see on ebay pics. Especially those listings with the crappy photos it looks like they tool in a dimly lit room with an iphone 3.

I have an old 19, my biggest block plane, feels like a small smoother, but I rarely use it since not low angle.


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## Etto (Sep 27, 2020)

I hope to get a Lie-Nielsen plane one day, but for now, I'm only using a Stanley low-angle block plane. I think it is "contractor grade" but it's been performing well although it does have issues.


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## SMP (Aug 29, 2018)

> Fair point. I buy them to use as well…i guess some go into planes im reselling but i want those to get used too…i just happen to be picky and want the iron to match the age and type of the plane. Its kind of a necessity if im reselling one that it matches.


Thats the funny thing about "collectors". They get sooooo OCD about getting the "right" parts on old things. But ironically an actual craftsman of the time would have used up the first iron and bought whatever the replacement part the hardware store had at the time, and the next time etc.

Same thing with old BMX bikes, collectors try to get the "correct" part, when in actuality when I rode BMX bikes in the 80s we would go to the bike shop and buy trick aftermarket parts and swap out the "junk" that came stock on the bikes. Its kind of a funny thing collecting.


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## controlfreak (Jun 29, 2019)

I think the first thing I build after my bench is complete will be a tool cabinet that has a plane till in it. The problem is how do I figure out the size? I bought another one last night.


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## rad457 (Jun 15, 2013)

> Andre, I may mill up a thicker iron for my 07 one of these days. If I do, I'll make an extra for ya.
> 
> - HokieKen


That would be nice I actually have been using it more than expected? Flattened an sharpened the NOS iron only to find it was 1/8" out of skew! Let me know what the postage and costs are and I'll get the wife to work a few extra hours/days LOL!


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## sansoo22 (May 7, 2019)

> Thats the funny thing about "collectors". They get sooooo OCD about getting the "right" parts on old things. But ironically an actual craftsman of the time would have used up the first iron and bought whatever the replacement part the hardware store had at the time, and the next time etc.
> 
> - SMP


I'm getting less picky about my user planes thankfully. It started with scrapers. Those blades are pretty hard to find originals and the new Hock scraper blades work sooo much better. I'm heavily leaning towards PM-V11s for all my users. It will be a slow process but if I need a certain logo iron for a rusty plane im restoring I can steal it from a user and buy myself a nicer iron.



> I think the first thing I build after my bench is complete will be a tool cabinet that has a plane till in it. The problem is how do I figure out the size? I bought another one last night.
> 
> - controlfreak


That's a tough one. A lot of that depends on you personally and how much you use planes. I know what your current longest plane is. If you go with a vertical style till I'd work off the #8 for height. A #3 and #5-1/4 are roughly the same length as a #8 if you stacked them vertically in the same slot. Email me if you need any measurements or want a quick pick of a couple layout options.


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