# table saw sled



## scribble (May 17, 2012)

Does anyone have any suggestions on good material for the fence on a cross cut sled?


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## Pezking7p (Nov 17, 2013)

Laminate two layers of 3/4" plywood together. I used a single layer of 3/4" and wish I had more. I would recommend against any solid wood, as it will have a tendency to change shape slightly with humidity. Save the pretty stuff for your furniture.


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## bobkas (May 23, 2010)

I have seen them made of laminated plywood, hardwood and even jointed tubafours. I guess it would depend on what your plans are for the sled. When I was working out of the garage everything seemed to warp so I made everything out of the cheapest materials I could find. I have not yet made one for my new to me table saw in an actual dedicated shop. My last one was made of a piece of OSB and a 2×4 fence and it worked for several years.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

3/4" Baltic Birch worked well for me.


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## NiteWalker (May 7, 2011)

Mine is currently an L shaped fence made from two pieces of 3/4" plywood screwed together. The horizontal piece keeps the vertical piece flat and straight, and is used for mounting to the base. In the base I tapped 1/4-20 threads and used thin ca glue to harden the threads. I drilled oversize holes in the horizontal piece so I'd have a bit of wiggle room for aligning the fence square to the blade.

My current sled was made from scraps because I wanted to try out the new fence design. I like this design a lot, and will be making a nicer sled later on with the same fence design.

I've tried the two pieces of plywood glued together, and it works fine too. I just like the L design for ease of adjustment and because it stays straight.


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## skatefriday (May 5, 2014)

I glued two pieces of 3/4" A1 prefinished veneer core plywood together (just what I had on hand) and it is slightly concave. So plywood won't save you from warping. I really like the backing piece in an L configuration idea. I'll be rebuilding my current fence with that idea.


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## scribble (May 17, 2012)

SO i did use 3/4 Baltic birch and laminated 2 pieces together and it is not joiner flat. I think since I am in a garage that does have moisture issues I will do the 2/4 jointed due to not wanting to waste the good stuff.


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## skatefriday (May 5, 2014)

I'm in a garage, but I'm also in a dry area of Southern California. Stuff
still warps. One of my biggest problems. What exactly do you mean by
2/4 jointed?


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## Woodbum (Jan 3, 2010)

I laminated 3 pieces of 1/2" Baltic birch. Structurally stable and flat. Works well on my Wm. Ng inspired sled.


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## scribble (May 17, 2012)

use a 2×4 pine board and make it flat with my joiner and planer.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Scribble, A 2×4 may have a really high moisture content. I used an OLD quarter sawn Douglas Fir 2×6 for mine, jointed square. It has been very stable.


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## skatefriday (May 5, 2014)

I was the local HD a couple weeks ago looking to pick up a couple 2×4s for a project and everything was so wet I needed a towel to dry my hands after sorting through the stack. I ended up getting a 2×6 piece of redwood and milled it down to what I wanted as it was the driest stuff I could find.


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## TheWoodenOyster (Feb 6, 2013)

Don't want to steal the thread or anything, but all this warping talk makes me wonder why we don't make such a crucial part on a crucial jig out of plastic. Anyone tried this?


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## GregD (Oct 24, 2009)

> Don t want to steal the thread or anything, but all this warping talk makes me wonder why we don t make such a crucial part on a crucial jig out of plastic. Anyone tried this?
> 
> - TheWoodenOyster


FWIW I scored a couple of the aluminum extrusions that Rockler uses on its router table fences and am using one as the fence on one of my sleds. The fence is straight and isn't affected by humidity, but I did need to shim it a bit with tape to get the face perpendicular to the table. Every option seems to have its pros and cons.


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## ChefHDAN (Aug 7, 2010)

I've collected a lot of Corian scrap from numerous café renovations and redo's. I use quite a bit of it for fences sled runners etc. mills like wood with carbide and is rather easy to work with but smells awful when you're cutting it.


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## skatefriday (May 5, 2014)

I do a lot of work with laser cut acrylics for a robotics team and I'd be concerned about plastic breaking at a very inopportune time.


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## NiteWalker (May 7, 2011)

> Don t want to steal the thread or anything, but all this warping talk makes me wonder why we don t make such a crucial part on a crucial jig out of plastic. Anyone tried this?
> 
> - TheWoodenOyster


A reinforced fence (like the L fence I mentioned earlier) won't warp.
Plastic can and will warp.
Aluminum makes for a great fence but can be heavy.


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## ChefHDAN (Aug 7, 2010)

Agreed Nitewalker, and an "L" shaped corian one is almost indestructible


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Read 'em and weep!
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/95377


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## scribble (May 17, 2012)

So I built my sled out of birch ply all around. I'm trying to do the 5 cut method but keep getting the same misalignment changes needed. I also noticed my saw cut is not level near the front fence.


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