# What are your shop recipes?



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

What formulas do you use in your shop?
Here are some I use.

*Poly Rub*
1 part Polyurathane
1 part Boiled Linseed oil

*Honing Oil*
1 part mineral oil
1 part kerosene

*Test for Existing Finish on Furniture*

1 Rub a Few Drops of Boiled Linseed Oil Into the Wood - If it absorbs, the wood has an oil finish. If it beads up, the wood has a hard finish (continue).
2 Rub Acetone Over a Spot in a Gentle, Circular Motion - Polyurethane finishes shed acetone like water. Lacquer dissolves in 30 seconds with rubbing. Varnishes and shellacs turn to a sticky, gel-like substance after a minute or two.
3 Try a Few Drops of Denatured Alcohol - Shellac dissolves quickly in denatured alcohol. Varnish reacts slowly.

*Maloof Rub*
1 part BLO
1 part Poly
1 part turpintine

*Stropping compounds*

automotive rubbing compound
or
Brasso

What are some of your most used recipes?


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## boxcarmarty (Dec 9, 2011)

2 shots whiskey
Tbsp honey
1/2 lemon
herbal tea


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## OggieOglethorpe (Aug 15, 2012)

Mac and Cheese!


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Whats that Marty, a bar stool finish?


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

You guys are making me hungry and thirsty.


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## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

*French polish.*
1 part BLO
1 part DNA
1 part clear shellac

*Coffee*
Water
Coffee grounds
2 sugars

*Disaster*
wood
power tools
William


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

Blood….
Sweat….
& Tears!!!

Pissing….
& Moaning!


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## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

Question about the poly rub.
Has anyone tried one part spar urethane and one part BLO for a wipe on exterior finish?
I'm wondering because it is a thought I had a few days ago for an easier to apply finish for outside projects.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

50/50 Paste wax and BLO, easy finish for turnings.

1 ice cube
2 shots Wild Turkey


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

William I have not, but I bet one of these guys has.
Keep them coming guys.
I am interested in seeing what you have.


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## Tim457 (Jan 11, 2013)

Nice list Dave, I like the finish tests. But no love for your plane polish you used on that panel marking gauge?


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

*The best finish*
1 part of whatever is on hand 
1 part brandy after the finish has been applied

I flunked finishing school


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## GaryC (Dec 31, 2008)

A little bit of piss
a little bit of moan
A little bit of grunt
a little bit of groan
A little bit of push
a little bit of shove
A little bit of help
from the One up above


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

I forgot the Plane polish Tim, I do like it.

*Mendota Plane Polish*

1 part Murphy oil soap
1 part BLO
1 part wax

I love the humor guys.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Gr8 subject SD. I'll be testin em all out…...........then,................when I sober up, I'll try out the others as well.


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

You guys are nuts!
You to Roger.

Metal Finish

get the metal warm, 150 degrees or better
apply this liberally

1 part BLO
1 part turpentine
1 part bees wax

this is good for a few months indoors
I use this on my forge work


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## jordanp (Feb 1, 2013)

1 Part Paste Wax
1 Part Boiled Linsead Oil
1 Part Mineral Spirits


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

William, 
BLO or Watco and Spar Urethane, 50/50. 
I use the Dark Walnut or Light Walnut Watco, or just BLO , depending on the wood and the look I'm after. 
Works fine. Flood it, wipe it, let it dry, repeat as necessary. If you can see spots where it has really soaked in and looks drier than the rest, give it another coat. I usually plan on at least two applications with a rub down with 0000 Liberon between. Then wax an buff.

3 fingers of Glen Fiddich, no ice. And a Rocky Patel VERY occasionally.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

I hone with 50/50 K1 and 30 wt motor oil….

I don't trust the term "mineral oil" as I find that what many people actually mean is "mineral spirits" (i.e. pain thinner).

True mineral oil is the same thing as baby oil, less the fragrance.


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## BTimmons (Aug 6, 2011)

*Easy wipe on finish:*
1) Mix equal parts of boiled linseed oil, satin polyurethane, mineral spirits.
2) Wipe on, wipe off excess after a few minutes.
3) Repeat once daily until the finish is to your liking.
4) Store excess in a small sealed plastic container. Stir gently before using. Mixture stays good for several days if sealed.

*Refreshment:*
1) Get a tumbler glass.
2) Two fingers of gin (kept in freezer).
3) Approx 4-5 ice cubes.
4) Squeeze slice of lime, drop on top.
5) Pour tonic over lime until glass is full.
6) Enjoy a proper gin & tonic like a gentleman.

(Only to be enjoyed once you are done using tools for the day.)


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## toeachhisown (Eddie) (Mar 30, 2011)

great forum Dave been wondering about the different mixures , lots of good post 
pretty much a vodka and V8 and a splash of hot sauce my self


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## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

I see everyone is posting their favorite drink recipes as well, so I thought I should join the party and post mine.

Shot glass of tequila.
And.
Well, just keep adding tequila.


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

There is your answer William.
Snnvet you just learned me something.

Now when I drank I like good scotch.
Or a Manhattan


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## MNgary (Oct 13, 2011)

Pa's walnut stain: gather fallen walnuts in the fall, remove green husks and fill a can, cover with turpentine, place a board on top and wait till Spring before using.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Mine are pretty close to the same as yours. Sometimes my honing oil is diesel instead of kerosene and sometimes winds up straight diesel fuel.

I'll often do a 1 to 1 BLO and shellac.


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## widdle (Mar 10, 2010)

coffee and cigarettes… Blo and mineral spirits…But mabye i should re think this since no one has mentioned it..


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

jack and coke?


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## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

Thanks Gene. 
I have an outdoor project on my mind this summer and have been thinking of a better but easy to apply outdoor finish. I have about three gallons of Thompson's Waterseal left but have figured out that I just don't care for the junk.


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Interesting stuff gentalmen


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

William,
Try Sikkens Cetol SRD Translucent tinted if you want. SRD stands for *S*iding, *R*ails, *D*ecks.
You'll not go back to that "junk".
I just bought a couple gallons at Amazon. It's a bit pricey, but worth it.


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## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

Thanks Gene. I have gotten in the habit of using Hellsman Spar Urethane though and really like it. I like the urethane look more than sealer. It gives more of a shine or glow in the sunlight. However, spar is a pain to apply and was just looking for something I could wipe on.
Let me explain. I hate brushes. When possible I like wipe on finishes. I know how to use brushes, I just hate them with a passion. You see, my grandfather was a painter. He painted for 42 years for the railroad and painted houses on the side. I grew up painting so much, that I developed a hatred for a paint brush in my hand.
I remember one particular cold day when grandpa carried us out to paint a red barn. The owner brought out latex paint. Grandpa was explaining to the customer that we couldn't apply that in the cold air. The customer looked disappointed, but my brother and I were happy as clams that we wouldn't be painting that day. That is until we heard grandpa tell the man, "no problem, I have some red enamel back at the house, boys, get to scraping, I'll be back."


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## richardwootton (Jan 17, 2013)

Dave,
WHat kind of poly do you use for your Maloof finish?


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Mix a small amount of roofing tar into a cup of turpentine and stir. Pour the mixture through a cloth or strainer into a container. This makes a dark stain.
~
Steel wool, coffee and vinegar makes another good one. 
~
You can wet steel wool let it sit in the sun for a day and rust. Place it in vinegar then rub on oak. The tanin in the oak will react to the mixture.
~
Danish Oil
1 part varnish
1 part BLO
1 part mineral sprits


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

Double shot with water back, easy on the water.


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## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

What do you guys use on your projects that you have messed up beyond repair?
I use:
firepit
newspaper
sometimes a little lighter fluid or gasoline,
And a match.

I thought of this because we roasted weiners tonight for dinner.
I noticed a few of my fancy firewood pieces in the wood pile.


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## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Since I am a finishing illiterate, I have a question…if one was to use an oil (tung or blo), a thinner, and poly combo. How does the oil/finish dry? I like to use tung oil/MS blend. However, drying time is loooong. I have been severely disappointed a couple of times, especially on walnut, to have applied a poly before the oil was truly dried. The results are like the oil "wicked" out and then was caught beneath the poly. If one was to have an oil, poly, thinner mix…how can/does it actually cure? I am a bit slow. But it seems like in my simple mind the oil would be prevented for drying by the film forming of the poly.


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## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

I am probably just as finishing illiterate as you Shane, but I too have learned the hard way to perils of putting poly over an oil finish if it is not fully cured. For that reason, if I plan on putting poly over oil, I apply the oil and let it cure for at least a week before even attempting to put poly over it. This is probably way longer than needed, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.

The only thing I've ever read about poly over oil was on a can of Watco Danish Oil. It stated to allow the oil to fully cure for 72 hours before applying any kind of topcoat.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

William, I wipe on that Helmsman Spar Urethane all the time. I have mixed it from 1:1 to 3 parts Spar to 1 part ms depending on how porous the wood is and how much 'build up' I want.


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Shane I wont put a pure film on a oil or oil mix. The only time I will is with shellac. With shellac the oil can permeate either way and you can wipe off the excess. 
Go get a piece of glass draw you a grid. Mark each section. Blo, oil mix #1, oil mix #2 ect. Date it. Apply the finishes and come back every few days to see the outcome.
I love the oil rubs like danish oil. Just keep applying and it will get a bit thicker. There are no runs you cant wipe off, fish eye is almost never a problem (only when silicon is present) and no orange peel.
There are oils that have fast dring catalyst added to them.


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## shampeon (Jun 3, 2012)

Wood stabilizer:
1 part Minwax Wood Hardener
1 part poly
1 part mineral spirits

Pimm's Cup
1 part Pimm's
1 part lemon juice
1 part ginger ale
cucumber slice/peel for garnish


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Thanks Shampeon that brings one to my mind.
Wood stabilizer.
Hmm there was one I read and haven't tried.
they said to soak plexi glass in acetone and then after the plastic broke down soak the wood in it.
Has anyone tried this?


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## woodbutcherbynight (Oct 21, 2011)

One part Orange Juice, one part Russian Potato mash Vodka (if you can read the label in English you are drinking inferior Vodka)

Artuio Fuente cigar, preferrably Churchill size.

Dip in the jacuzzi.

Bedroom activities afterward.

An excellent finish after working in the shop.

(Laughing)


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## shampeon (Jun 3, 2012)

Dave: probably would work. I've made binding goop for guitars by melting ABS plastic in acetone. You probably need a lot of acetone, and I'd put it under pressure to get it soaked through.

Realistically an off-the-shelf resin would work just as well, though.


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## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

Beans… Ranch style…

Dave, you have some real good ones!

Thank you.


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## emart (Mar 16, 2011)

instant house destruction

1 pile of wood
1 newspaper for gluing
multiply by lack of cleaning the shop due to marathon-ing a project for 2 weeks
me constantly coated in sawdust/woodchips going in and out the house to use various tools

rinse and repeat

also for bonus points you can add in working with metal to amplify the results


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

I think we have managed to get drunk while we burn our house down with the ability to put some finish on a board.
I love the humor guys!


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## widdle (Mar 10, 2010)

An architect i do work for turned me on to..turpentine, blo pine tar and japan drier…Smells awesome…not sure how good it is..i put it on hammer handles..just for the smell..


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## redSLED (Mar 21, 2013)

SHOP FORMULAS/RECIPES TO AVOID
- sandals
- intoxication
- working naked
- tool abuse
- self abuse
- eating food that was dropped on the floor even if the '3-second rule' applies
- an empty beer fridge


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

I have never used japan drier or worked naked!


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

One dose of this
http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/3376#comment-1553014


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## KentInOttawa (Jun 25, 2013)

1 part water
1 part vinegar
submerge 1 wad of steel wool in it and let it sit until completely disgusting

strain and serve; preferably with an artificial brush and to some oak. Wipe up any wet standing on the surface and let it sit for a while. Repeat as required.

The water causes the steel wool to rust. The vinegar speeds the reaction. The rust (iron oxide?) reacts with the tannin in the oak and causes it to blacken. A nice effect. If followed-up with a rubbed-in polyurethane, you get a black piec of oak with the grain both visible and tactile; there doesn't appear to be any finish at all.


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Thank you Kent, another good one.


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## RonInOhio (Jul 23, 2010)

Coffee. Highly subjective and depends on what method you use . I found depending on the coffee,
8 grams medium - medium/coarse grind per 5 oz. of cold water. But coffees are different. It takes some experimentation .

No one size fits all in making coffee. If you use a drip machine, get one that is certified by the Specialty Coffee Association of America.

Not many are certified because only a few brands actually brew at the correct time and temperture for the duration of the brew cycle.

I've tried every method there is and most are full of hype and disappointing. The MoccaMaster and BonaVita are both certified . I own the BonaVita. Am pretty pleased with it. But most people, (I would guess) are satisfied with average coffee so these machines are for the discriminating coffee drinker.

The MoccaMaster is very expensive but its handmade in the Netherlands. The Bona Vita is quite a bit less expensive and made in China.

Just my opinion, take it for what its worth.

Edited to add: Almost forgot. Make sure to get the thermal carafe . Don't use glass carafes!


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Ron a stellar suggestion. 
We all love coffee.


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## madts (Dec 30, 2011)

Ice + V8 + Beer at the end of the day.


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## distrbd (Sep 14, 2011)

Kondra's magic mix.
25% pure tung oil (available at Lee Valley)
25% spar (exterior) varnish 
50% paint thinner
Japan drier - one capful per Cup of mix


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## OggieOglethorpe (Aug 15, 2012)

Crock pot chilli!


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Ken I will try that!
v8 and beer. That sound scary.
mmmm chilli


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Shop metal finish or rust preventive.
If it has places you can reach and it wont hurt it, warm it with a propane torch.
1 part bees wax
1 part BLO
1 part turpentine.
I use this on axes, shovels and forged items.


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## blackcherry (Dec 7, 2007)

Great post love the response thus far still LMAO will contribute soon…BC


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)




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## WodDawg (Apr 20, 2013)

OK…enquiring minds gotta know: what the heck is BLO?


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## WodDawg (Apr 20, 2013)

Here's a fix for chrome with fly spots on it: cold water and a piece of aluminum foil, 5" x 5". Lightly crumple the foil, dip it in the cold water and rub it on the chrome until a gravy appears. That chrome will shine! Used it on the Hog's shift lever. Looks like new!


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## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

BLO is Boiled Linseed Oil
I remember asking that same question once upon a time.


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## WodDawg (Apr 20, 2013)

BLO = Boiled Linseed Oil?!? Sheesh!


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## WodDawg (Apr 20, 2013)

Dave, your Mendota plane polish says 'wax'. Johnson's paste wax mebbe?


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## WodDawg (Apr 20, 2013)

Thank ye, William! Now I know.


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

WodDawg yep that is what I used. 
I am going to try it with some all natural mixes. Like bees wax, pure turp and all natural BLO.
It doesn't store to well. Seems to get a heavy film on the top.


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## WodDawg (Apr 20, 2013)

Thanks, Dave.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

here is an interesting one.

http://mvflaim.wordpress.com/2013/11/09/antique-tool-improver/


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Don I love that one.


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## newwoodbutcher (Aug 6, 2010)

For Cherry
Potassium Dichromate and Waterlox


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

A 3:2 ratio of denatured alcohol to shellac seal coat as a pre-stain conditioner.
Works like a charm to prevent blotching on cherry.


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

*Potassium Dichromate and Waterlox*
Does that speed up the natural red?


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)




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## natenaaron (Jun 24, 2013)

So is this what people are talking about when they say "propitiatory" finish?


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## BoxBuilder (Oct 30, 2009)

I have been using a modified Maloof finish for years.
1 part spar varnish
2 parts BLO
3 parts turpentine.
I really like the results.


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

I have never used Spar.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

I love spar varnish. Its very durable.


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