# Spraying shellac



## john2005 (Jun 8, 2012)

Ok, how many of you spray shellac, and how do you do it. I work at a body shop and usually spray lacquer but I like the look of shellac, it just doesn't brush/wipe on for crap. As thin as it is, I see it spraying very well. Thoughts? Ideas? Do's? Don'ts? Thanks


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## TDSpade (Oct 14, 2011)

Spraying shellac is the only way to go. This is my favorite how to video on spraying shellac.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

"Spray Finishing" by Andy Sharron covers the spraying of
shellac as he is real into it. I never sprayed it myself 
but if you have the space and the size of the job merits
the clean-up, try it.


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## NiteWalker (May 7, 2011)

+1 on spraying it.
Bullseye shellac is a 3# cut, sealcoat (dewaxed shellac) is a 2# cut.
I stick to the sealcoat because it's so versatile. If I need to tint it I use transtint dyes.


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## Earlextech (Jan 13, 2011)

Sealcoat everyday! I'm with NiteWalker.


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

I brush it. You have to move fast but I've never had a problem. On an antique piece it's the only way to go if you still want it to look like an antique.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

I can apply it 2 ways: I can pad it (and french polish), and I can spray it. Since padding works best on flat areas, everything else gets sprayed. I usually mix my own (1# cut, give/take). What I like most is the easy clean up; soak the gun in some household ammonia and warm water. It destroys the shellac.


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## john2005 (Jun 8, 2012)

Maybe thats my problem with the brushing. I am too slow. Next project, I think I will take to the booth and spray. Sounds like the way to go. 
NiteWalker, could you please tell me what 3# and 2# cut is. Sorry for being stoopid…
Thanks guys


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## BilltheDiver (Jul 2, 2010)

I think the number refers to the lbs of shellac dissolved into denatured alcohol to make a gallon. I buy the Bullseye and cut it in half with denatured alcohol for spraying. I usually wind up running it out with wax and 000 steel wool at the end.


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## Iguana (Jun 22, 2011)

*BilltheDiver* - essentially correct. Number of pounds of dry shellac dissolved into a gallon of alcohol. The end result is a bit more than a gallon. And it doesn't have to be just denatured alcohol. Shellac dissolves (easily) in 4 different kinds of alcohol - methyl, isopropyl, ethyl and butyl. DNA is a mix of ethanol and methanol, in whatever ratio the manufacturer deems appropriate. I make mine with pure methanol, as it is the most economical available to me.

*john2005*, I spray it by the gallon, using a 1# or 1.5# cut. Those are quite thin weights, about the same viscosity as water, so the technique you use will be different than spraying lacquer.

Because shellac dries fast, it needs to be sprayed in fairly thin layers. As it burns in to itself like lacquer, it is pretty straightforward to build it up. But you don't want to get too thick as that will cause crazing down the road.

Use a fairly small nozzle/needle combo - I use a 1.2mm set in an Iwata gun (LPH400-LV) but I'd go with a 1.0mm set if they made one. Very low air pressure, too, or you will have clouds of overspray.

Cleanup is easy - alcohol.


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## john2005 (Jun 8, 2012)

Thanks Mark and Bill. I know we have some 1.2 nozzles at the shop. Not too sure about a 1 though. Either way, looks like I could make this happen. Thanks again for the info!


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## mtenterprises (Jan 10, 2011)

I spray shellac with my Pasche air brush using the largest tip available and I think I'm running about 25psi. Thinning is nothing fancy, pour some shellac in the jar add some alcohol and see if it sprays. If not add more alcohol until it sprays. The last project I sprayed was a turned black walnut ring holder. Shot it with about 8 thin coats and got a mirror finish, almost looks better than the rings it holds.
MIKE


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## rrww (Aug 12, 2012)

We spray 1# seal coat every day (not as a top coat) 1.2 tip is nice - but I have no problem using the 1.4. Its really thin, if you can spray lacquer you can spray seal coat - just don't try to put too much on - go thin. If it runs on you fix it while its wet - its a whole lot easier than when its dry.


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## flamenco (Oct 20, 2016)

Hello All,

I realize that this thread is a bit long of tooth, but it's a topic of primary interest to me, so I'll go ahead and post.

I finish the classical guitars that I make with shellac, primarily by French polishing, but lately I've been trying a Taklon brush as well. I've been thinking of trying spraying with an air brush--I want to keep the finish thin--and noticed that Mike of MT enterprises mentions that he has had some air brush experience. I'm looking for any advice that I can get on the topic, and was wondering if anyone else uses an airbrush for shellac spraying.

Cheers,

Brian


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

I LOVE spraying shellac. Don't overspray it. Light when coats. Much, much easier than brush or pad.


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## Carloz (Oct 12, 2016)

> Spraying shellac is the only way to go.
> - TDSpade


Right! That is why it was so popular for hundreds of years far before sprayers were invented. 
OP I am surprised you have difficulties to wipe it on. Shellac is very forgiving and the easiest finish to work with. Just dont apply to much at once


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

> Spraying shellac is the only way to go.
> - TDSpade
> 
> Right! That is why it was so popular for hundreds of years far before sprayers were invented.
> ...


"Using a CNC for repetitive inlays is the only way to go." "Yea, that's why they were so popular for hundreds of years."

I'm actually not a CNC guy, but there sometimes there are advancements in technology that work. I worked very hard at applying shellac by hand, and had some very good results along with some frustrations. I have been overjoyed to spray it.


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## flamenco (Oct 20, 2016)

Hello Guys,

Thanks very much for the replies--I'm encouraged!

I've ordered Andy Charron's finishing book, and it's supposed to arrive today--thanks for the tip Loren ->)...

Details, details, making something work is always in the details. I would really appreciate hearing about what sort of spraying setup worked for you--spray gun type, nozzle size, pound cut and dilution, etc., etc. One detail that I've heard lacquer sprayers talk about is drying the compressed air. I grew up spraying paint in my dad's body shop, but I'm really a babe in the woods when it comes to the technical stuff-my dad took care of all of that.

Cheers,

Brian


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

Brian, no expert here, but I've used turbine systems where you don't have that air issue. I started with a Summit system from Peachtree I got on sale for $70 . That worked well for shellac spraying but there were aspects I found annoying. It's a good starter set, though. If I were starting cheap again, I'd probably go for the bottom of the line Earlex

I just got an Earlex 6003-seems really nice, but I've only used it one time on a small job so far.


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## DrDirt (Feb 26, 2008)

If you are used to spraying lacquer - Shellac will be as hard as falling out of a boat and hitting water.

it does flash more slowly (Alcohol vs Lacquer thinner), so it can be easier to get runs.


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## flamenco (Oct 20, 2016)

Hello Charles,

It seems that Wagner has bought Earlex, and that there are some parts availability and compatibility issues, according to an Amazon reviewer.

I'm thinking that a spray gun might well be the better choice for spraying a guitar. As it's in between the small things usually appropriate for an airbrush, and the large things like kitchen cabinets appropriate for a gun, it's a judgement call. Any other turbine system that you might recommend?

Cheers,

Brian

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement"


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## Earlextech (Jan 13, 2011)

Brian,
What type of compatibility issues do you speak of?
Sam


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## flamenco (Oct 20, 2016)

Hello Sam,

"What type of compatibility issues do you speak of?"

A previous poster had some trouble getting parts that would fit after Wagner bought Earlex, but that was resolved by some left over Earlex employees.

I've about decided on an LVLP gun-- Astro EVOT 13. It's just under $100, and gets good reviews. It should work fine for the relatively small parts that I'm finishing.

A few things I've picked up in my search for shellac spraying info:

Spraying nitrocellulose lacquer is virtually the same, and hints, tips, and cautions on spraying nitro will also apply to spraying shellac.

Don't use a turbine because the hot air it supplies will cause the shellac to dry too quickly--hence my choice of an LVLP gun supplied with air from a compressor.

Butyl alcohol, or isopropanol can be used as a retarder during hot and dry days--not much of a problem here in Fort Bragg CA, one mile from the ocean.

Allow lots of drying time between thin coats so as not to trap solvent in lower layers, which slows curing for final rub-out--24 hours is good.

Cheers,

Brian


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## Cooler (Feb 3, 2016)

I brush on Sealcoat with a foam brush and I get consistently good results. It is not as fast as spraying, but if I were doing just one piece I think it would be a wash in time spent brushing vs spraying and cleaning the sprayer.


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## flamenco (Oct 20, 2016)

Hello Cooler,

I'm doing small shop production, so I would typically be applying two or three coats of finish to perhaps 30 to 50 parts. As I like to fill the pores of open pored wood with just shellac, it could be a bunch more coats of those parts, depending on what dilution works best.

I've tried padded and brushed shellac for years, and always end up causing a bunch of sanding that needs to be done to level the finish. I'm hoping to get good enough at spraying to limit the amount of work I have to do at the leveling and rub- out stage.

Cheers,

Brian


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