# Bookcase with face frame



## ppg677 (Jan 21, 2016)

I plan on making a bookcase out of plywood with a face frame to cover the ply edges on the front

In the base I've done hardwood bookcases using a simple rabbit joint as shown below. But with ply, how should I cover the edge on the top that won't be covered by a face frame?

Any other recommendations for joining the sides to the top and bottom?

I'll use dados for the shelves.


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## wuddoc (Mar 21, 2008)

Dowels, Biscuits, splines, locking miter.

One method is to use a veneer. You can purchase this material in various species. Some even have a pressure sensitive peel off backing while others use glue that melts when you apply an iron.


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

How tall is it and how you going to finish it?


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## Breeze73 (Jul 14, 2016)

No matter how you connect that corner, you will have a plywood edge visible. That is unless you do a 45 degree beveled edge (which I would not recommend). If the plywood edge is low enough to be seen, then I would recommend veneer edge banding the top of vertical edge prior to making the rabbet. Once the veneer is on, and trimmed, then you can use a dado blade to get the fit perfect for the 23/32" plywood top to fit within.

However, if the top will be higher than about 76" or so, then I wouldn't worry about it.


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

Put a top on it. It will hide the plywood edge and make the whole project more appealing to the eye, IMO
I don't show it but I'd do something with the toe kick also.


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## jerryminer (Jun 15, 2014)

Hi ppg677-- I like the drawing of the bookcase-- reminds me of one I saw on SMC. ;-)

I'm with AlaskaGuy on this-if the top will be visible, put a lid on it. Otherwise, ignore it.

Other options include:

running the sides up another couple inches, adding a back rail, and edgebanding the top edge of the ply.

running the top over the sides and adding a trim detail to cover the edges.


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## John Smith_inFL (Dec 15, 2017)

I do not have sketchup, but, on a cabinet like that, I would take a piece of 3/4" plywood
and attach a 1×2" board to the edge to it, making the top about 2"larger on the two sides and the front,
leaving the back flush with the cabinet.
rout the 3 edges with an Ogee or similar profile and turn it over with the routed edge on the bottom.
then apply a 3/4" 1/4 round shoe molding under it to make a very nice profile.
if the bookcase is under 5 feet tall, I would use solid lumber glued up for the top that will match the plywood case.
if you leave it just a Plane Box configuration - it will look like something you would buy at Ikea.
[and you don't want that]










maybe someone that has sketchup can make a better rendering of what I am trying say.

.


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## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

This is a little more work, but it does get rid of the edge.









Or you could make your dado deeper, on just the top, so that only about an 1/8 of the edge shows. 
You would still have to veneer the edge.


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## ppg677 (Jan 21, 2016)

Thank you all. Yes, I lifted the image from somewhere (probably SMC).


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## Bill_Steele (Aug 29, 2013)

I agree with others-put a top on it.










I think it's called a rabbet joint as opposed to a rabbit joint-which I imagine to look like this (joking)


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## ArtMann (Mar 1, 2016)

Actually, most of the joints illustrated are commonly referred to as dado joints. Rabbet joints usually refer to a cross grain cut along the edge like the top one in the illustration.


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## Mike_D_S (May 3, 2012)

Another simple answer is adding a piece of hardwood edging to the plywood side. Basically glue on a 1/4 strip to the end of the plywood side. Then cut your rabbet as normal. The end of the ply will be hidden and you'll have a small seam showing on the side.

Not invisible, but not as much work as building a top.

Mike


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

Put a hardwood top on it, it won't cost a lot and will add another dimension of class to the piece. Also add a plinth, make the simple look elegant.


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## ppg677 (Jan 21, 2016)

What's a plinth and how do I make one? From googling, looks like a bottom piece.


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## John Smith_inFL (Dec 15, 2017)

modified photo just to show the top and bottom of a nicely constructed cabinet case.
a simple decorative support base (plinth) will add charm and character to your bookcase.










.


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

Perhaps you have a good reason for not telling us but you never did answer the question…. "How tall is it and how you going to finish it?


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## ppg677 (Jan 21, 2016)

About 68 inches tall. I bought prefinished maple ply. Face frame will obviously be maple.

Perhaps tall enough to skip the top.

I'll have to figure out how to make a base. In the past all I've done is make short legs with a little apron.


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## bbasiaga (Dec 8, 2012)

What if you miter and spline the top instead of rabbet it?

Brian


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## ppg677 (Jan 21, 2016)

Any suggestions for attaching a solid top to plywood? I need to account for movement


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

> Any suggestions for attaching a solid top to plywood? I need to account for movement
> 
> - ppg677


I like to make it fixed at the front and let the back move. That way any reveal in the front stays constant. I think I originally got that from a Charles Neil video. How you attach it is up to you. There are lots of different ways.


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

Forget using a double top. Attach the solid wood top the the sides using a a 1/2 sliding dovetail (not sure the correct name of that joint but that's what I call it).

Hopefully these pictures explain it. Once you slide it on you can glue just use a dab of glue in the front on each side.


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

One more pic,


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## bbasiaga (Dec 8, 2012)

Not all plywood takes well to dovetails like that. You may choose to use the same concept but with a dado in the top that is the full thickness of the plywood. Same drill, glue only the front inch or so.

Brian


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Clean work AlaskaGuy


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

I have done this successfully on plywood too. For the sides I run them standing up on my router table with the fence set far enough from the bit to just make a scoring cut with the the dovetail bit. Then move the fence to make the finial cut. On the to top make a dado first then use the dovetail bit to just cut the angle on one side of the dado.

I must admit I don't buy my plywood at the big box stores.


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