# Vintage Skil Collection



## BreeStephany (Jun 1, 2012)

Over the last couple of years, I have started acquiring a variety of older / vintage Skil tools. My first tool was a blue label Skil 127 12" wormdrive saw which I picked up more as a conversation piece originally due to its massive saw, but once it was in my hands, I truly admired the beauty and craftsmanship of old tools. From there, I stumbled upon a Skil 100 planer, which got me hooked on vintage tools and got me started on tool restoration. I have since acquired a Skil 67,77,825 and 127 wormdrive saw, as well as a Rockwell 653 versa plane for my personal collection, as well as a Skil 107 and 127 which I restored for a friend.

I am still on the lookout for an original, unmodified Skil 117 wormdrive dado saw and am also looking for a Skil 107 10" wormdrive, but I have found both of these saws very difficult to come by. The Skil 117 and modified equivalents were banned by OSHA in the late 70's / early 80's because of their design and their tendency of kick back and skating out of cuts.

The Skil 107 was the in-between of the common 8-1/4" wormdrive and Skil's 127 and I don't really think the size really caught on enough for it to become 'common'. Many of those that were out there were often modified into wide dado saws for gang cutting rafters, due to their power and smaller frame.

Below is an overview of my current collection.









From left to right is a soon to be restored Rockwell 653 Versa Plane, a restored Skil 100 7.5A planer, a Skil 67 6-1/2" wormdrive, a restored Skil 77 7-1/4" wormdrive, a Skil 1/2" impact wrench, a original Skil 77 7-1/4" wormdrive, a original Skil 825 8-1/4" wormdrive and a Skil 127 12" wormdrive.


















My most recent of projects, a restored Skil 77 7-1/4" wormdrive. At the time of taking this picture, I was still working on the painting the side plate, but beyond that, its done. I ripped it down, gave it a VERY thorough cleaning (it was absolutely PACKED in sawdust to the point that I had to take scrub the field with mild solvent and a toothbrush just to get the inside of the field clean, replaced the bearings & seals, brushes and cord and gave it a new coat of paint. The hardware was in pretty decent shape and a lot of it I couldn't readily find stainless replacements for, so I decided against completely replacing all of the hardware with stainless.









The tool that got my restoration work started. A fully restored Skil 100 Type 4 7.5A 3" plane. I replaced all of bearings, belt and brushes, powder coated the body, repainted the label, replaced all of the screws & hardware with new stainless hardware, sharpened the blades and put a new cord on it. A bit of an investment, but pretty sure it will last my lifetime and hopefully someone else's.









My most recent of finds. A Rockwell 653 10A Versa Plane. I picked this one up the day before I took the picture, so I haven't done much with it yet, but the plan is to do a thorough cleaning on it, put in new bearings, belt and brushes, replace all of the hardware with stainless steel hardware, polish of the body, replace the cord and sharpen the blade a bit. The labels are in great shape, so there is no reason to touch them.









A Skil 67 6-1/2" wormdrive saw. I am a bit on the fence about what to do with this one besides using it. Its in great shape and has seen little use compared to some of my other saws. At this point, all I have done with it is gave it a good cleaning, inside and out, and tuned the brushes. It runs great and is actually a great balance of weight and size. Its not great as a stud saw, but I love it for cutting sheeting in the field.









A restored Skil 77









Another Skil 77. This one is in rough shape on the outside, but is extremely mechanically sound. I ripped it down, cleaned it out, put a new cord on it, replaced the brushes and started using it. I am in the process of matching color for the side label and will paint the side label, but beyond that, I don't think I will do much with it. The previous owner definitely abused the saw as guard had a bit of a wobble in it, which caused it to contact the blade, and it was run until it literally wore right through the front corner of the guard.

Because of its overall condition, I likely will keep it around as a backup saw / future parts saw and will use it as a stone saw out in the field every once and a while, but beyond that, don't really see any reason for improvements beyond eventually replacing the bearings and seals when they get close to going out.









A Skil 825 8-1/4" wormdrive saw. This is likely going to be my next project after I restore my versa plane. I have cleaned it up and put new brushes and a new cord on it and put it back into use, but I will likely do a full restoration on it eventually.









My first vintage handheld power tool. A monsterous Skil 127 12" 20A wormdrive saw. Out of all of the old wormdrive saws I have bought, this one is by far the best in regard to condition. When I bought it, I feared it would need a massive amount of restoration, as it was practically black, but as soon as I got it home, I found out that it was nothing more than just a bit of oil and dirt coating an almost 'mint' saw. Most of the paint is in great shape and mechanically its in excellent condition.

Its not my go-to saw unless I am cutting large dimensional lumber for 2 reasons, the first being that it weighs in at over 40lbs and the second that I have to use a CNC mill to cut out a diamond in the blades, as there are no common 12" blades with a diamond knockout.

For full sized images, you can go to


http://imgur.com/aMCsN


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

THAT'S when Skill was a quality brand.
Great job on the restos.
Bill


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## freddy1962 (Feb 27, 2014)

WOW, awesome collection! Those old wormdrive saws were real workhorses. Nice job on the restorations.,


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## BreeStephany (Jun 1, 2012)

Outside of the Skil 77, it definitely does sadden me to see how far Skil has slipped in quality over the years.

The Skil 77 is the workhorse that definitely made Skil its name and I do appreciate the fact that Skil recognizes when not to change something good. Mechanically, little has changed between the first generation Skil 77 and the Skil 77's that are produced today, 77 years later.


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## jackthelab (Jan 10, 2011)

Love seeing the old power tools - thanks for sharing.


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## BJODay (Jan 29, 2013)

Bree,

I wish you would have posted this earlier. Last year I disposed of a skill saw. I usually donate old tools to Goodwill, but this tool's blade guard would stick. I was afraid someone would get hurt using it.

I would have been happy to send it to a collector/restorer. I'll keep this in mind for any future tools I may discard.

BJ


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Might have a photo you might like









It came in a green metal box









Seems to be a 6" blade?


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## Artz (Mar 29, 2014)

Nice collection. That skil 100 planer will last forever. I Know a few old time surfboard shapers that have done 1000s of boards with their skil 100 Planer. One Gentleman bought his first skill 100 in 1965. It is still in use today. He owns 2 other skil 100 so one can be in repair one in use and one as a back up just is case. 
My personal collection of planers are 2 skil 100 one 5.5 and the other 7.5 3 Power kraft planers by Montgomery Ward and a Rockwell 653. The Rockwell is a beast. It makes short work out doing a large Stand up Paddle Board but taks a a firm hand. 
I can say your collection looks alot better then mine. Nice to see someone that loves those old trusty tools.


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## BoardSMITH (Mar 15, 2012)

The older Skil saws are tough as nails. Skil started out as the Michael Saw Company when the inventor was looking for a way to cut sugar cane quicker and more efficiently. Later the name was changed to Skil, as the legend says, when the wife of the companies owner said it looked like it would require a lot of "Skil" to use it. The problems with Skil started when Emerson obtained the company/brand and took the quality down to obscure levels. It hit the bottom until Bosch bought the company and tried to resurrect the reputation but Emerson had done to much damage. Even though the 77 is still around, mostly used west of the Mississippi, it is still tough as nails and extremely hard to wear out. Modern manufacuring methods have brought the price down but the original saw cost about a months wages making it a prized posession for any carpenter lucky enough to purchase one.

It is good to see the collection and it looks like a lot of care has been given to the older workhorses.

BTW Call Skil in Chicago. They can read the serial numbers to give you a manufacturing date. Might surprise you as to how old they are.


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## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

That 12' worm drive looks like a beast!


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## joeyinsouthaustin (Sep 22, 2012)

I love that stuff. I will pm you.. I have some older power tools coming up for sale. I think one is a skil jigsaw circa the 40's. It may be a shopmaster though. It has box and instructions. I have been asked to sell for someone else. I will check the brand and through the collection when I get home. We will be selling the whole collection some time this summer, but pre-sales would be fine.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

That's an impressive collection for sure. I have a couple 16 5/16" Makita saws (the older all metal ones) that don't get used much, but when they do, it's usually for a job that couldn't be done by anything else. I was poking around online to see if there were any 127's for sale and found this one: http://utica.craigslist.org/tls/4460620629.html Looks rough, but definitely a neat saw.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

Here is a 107 for $225: http://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/tls/4371037735.html Looks like it's in great shape, but shipping it anywhere could get expensive pretty quick.


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## BreeStephany (Jun 1, 2012)

As a rule of collecting, and to generally keep me from spending way too much money, I always try to keep my buying cost + my restoration costs at least $100 below the value that I could likely resell it at in restored condition. Granted, there is a lot of speculation involved in that equation and unless I'm able to hold and run a tool before buying, I always try to assume the worst for condition and will estimate that into my cost.

So far, I have done pretty well on most of my purchases, with the exception of my Rockwell versa plane, which after the cost of parts, I will be almost $400.00 into. In completely restored condition, I might be able to make $450~$500 if I wait for a buyer in the surf building community who wants a great planer in great condition right away, but beyond that, I will likely never be able to make back any of my costs.

With that said, I know that every once and while we all have to splurge and the 653 looks so nice with all of its polished aluminum.

The 127 is a fair price, but given its overall appearance, I would question how hard it was used and the condition of the worm drive gears, which can break the bank unless you have an inexpensive means to make a new brass gear. Given its location, its far out of my price range, but for someone in driving distance, I would say jump on it.

The 107 is a bit over priced in my personal opinion, but given the fact that it is in much better condition, I would say that anyone in driving distance should ask $175 ~ $200 for it.


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## woodchuckerNJ (Dec 4, 2013)

Very nice work on cleaning some of these up.

The planers look brand new.. or better than new.

Thanks for showing your collection…


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## BreeStephany (Jun 1, 2012)

I haven't yet restored the Rockwell 653 EHD Versa Planer, but I am hoping to get that accomplished this weekend. I am putting in new brushes, bearings, belt, cord and hardware (and replacing with stainless steel equivalents where available) as well as cleaning it up, polishing and getting the cutter head professionally sharpened. I will definitely post pictures when I'm done.


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## emiliof (Dec 10, 2012)

Uhm… I started a new forum topic because I realize this post could be hijacking the current thread… Sorry about that… Look for "Skil planer model 100… NEW!" as a different topic,

Cheers!

Emilio


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## SirIrb (Jan 12, 2015)

anyone who doesnt just love the worm saw should be forced to the tar pits forever!

Absolutely beautiful collection.

Me at 14.

Me: Dad, whats the difference between a skill saw and a worm saw?
Dad: Ohhhhh. Ohhhhh. Man. Ohhhh.
Me: No serious.
Dad: [Sketches a worm gear] That drives the blade.
Me: Ohhhhh. Ohhhhh. Man. Ohhhhh.


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## davewilson (Mar 28, 2015)

A really nice collection, thanks for posting.


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## devann (Jan 11, 2011)

The Skilsaw model 77 is my all time favorites saw. I've had several over the years. The newer (plastic handle) ones just feel good in my hand. I currently only have three worm gear Skilsaws. A model 77, a model 5860, & an old model 107. I once upon a time had an old model 77 but it grew legs and disappeared. I really liked that saw, it was so old, it had slotted head screws instead of phillips head. I wish Skilsaw would still make the two piece upper guard like they did on the old saws. I like how the motor fan blew a jet of air through it down in front of the blade clearing the sawdust off the line as you made your cut.









The model 107 I have was a gift. The guy that gave it to me told me he had another upper guard to fit it that went over a 3 1/2" stack dado blade. He said before roof trusses he used it to make the birds mouth cut for rafters. They would clamp the rafters together upside down on the sawhorse and cut the birds mouth in a single pass.










At nearly 32lbs. I don't plan on ever using the model 107, it's too heavy to use for a plating saw. I only use the model 5860 when I have to cut bastard rafters/jacks because of the 60°/30° cuts needed. I do wish Skil would have given the 8 1/4" another 1/16" depth of cut, it would make a nice plating saw.


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## canadianchips (Mar 12, 2010)

When I finished cabinet school in 70's SKIL was the name to have for tools.
My first circular saw was a cheap skil, 5800 rpm. I loved that saw, was small,balanced well. Eventually the bushings gave out. 
Never did find another one with high rpm.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

Any update on the 825 project?


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## DBordello (Jan 16, 2015)

I am new to the field. My only knowledge of Skil tools is that they are shockingly inexpensive at Bi-Mart. They seem to be completely made from plastic. My general impression was that they were bottom of the barrel tools.

Therefore, I was intrigued by this thread. It is interesting to see that Skil has had quite the fall from grace.

Great set of tools, I can tell you are proud of them (and should be). It is interesting to read this thread from a naive perspective.


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Finally found a saw blade for mine!









That blade cost me a whopping $1 at a yard sale last week. It is a 6" steel tooth, with a diamond knockout.









Cord is a little shorter, and there is a new plug on it, repairs from when it was bought









Handy little saw.


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## realcowtown_eric (Feb 4, 2013)

Once upon a time I had a radial arm attachment fo \ra skill saw. A move saw me part with it for next to nothing.

It's likely somewhere around Kelowna BC canada. Hopefully not in the scrap pile

I too appreciate the really old 'lectric tools, . but we're in the minority

"locomotive" belt sanders, etc. All you can do is appreciate them, and hope you encounter someone else who does. Damn few understand…..such is the way of the world.

One of my roundtoit projects is to make functional the mother-of-all Stanley routers. the cord is the size of yer big toe! (110 volts)

Eric


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

There's a monster Stanley router that come up for sale around here from time to time, looks huge next to the normal router pictured beside it. Guy's asking for $100 and I keep talking myself out of it every time I see it come up.


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## realcowtown_eric (Feb 4, 2013)

I've got one of these in my round to it box.

Truely the mother of all routers. at 16 amps, that would be a true 1 3/4 hp moto by old standards , probably 4 1/2 or 5 hp by current standards. Too bad it only took 1/4 shank bits (i think)

Big heay beast it is.

Eric


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

Just found this 20" monster for sale in CA for $1350: http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/tls/5140143706.html


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## Artz (Mar 29, 2014)

> I haven t yet restored the Rockwell 653 EHD Versa Planer, but I am hoping to get that accomplished this weekend. I am putting in new brushes, bearings, belt, cord and hardware (and replacing with stainless steel equivalents where available) as well as cleaning it up, polishing and getting the cutter head professionally sharpened. I will definitely post pictures when I m done.
> 
> - BreeStephany


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## Artz (Mar 29, 2014)

Hello Bree, 
I worked in the Surf Industry for many years . Mostly airbrushing Boards but also asa board shaper. The skil 100 was the go to planer for many many years due to being able to adjust on the fly. The 635 was used by some But you had to realize you were handling a monster of a machine. It's a big heavy machine. using it was a work out but it did mow some foam if you learned to tame the beast. Another Planer not as popular was the Wards power Kraft. Some were done with a skill front shoe. Making a Frankenstein Planer. Lighter then the Skil 100 with a shorter bed. better for doing shorter Boards. I have a couple of the Power Kraft planers and would like to do the conversion of the shoe and adjustment. If you have a good source for old soil parts i would like to make my own Frankenstein Planer . Or perhaps you might be interested in project?


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## V8q5 (Sep 12, 2015)

This is a great collection. I am jealous and trying to catch up. I am fixing up a 127. Do you have any idea where I can find a lower blade guard?

If anyone is selling parts, please let me know.

rick - new jersey


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

With all the feelers I've put out looking for vintage Skil power tools, this sander just came up in my inbox, anyone think it might be worth $150? Very cool minimalist design, I especially like the separate motor for the built in dust collection.


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## realcowtown_eric (Feb 4, 2013)

Highblockyeti…

..I have one of those massive beasts in my round-to-it pile. It is indeed a monster at least twice the mass of the current 3.5hp routers r….I can only begin to imagine how some carpenter was so proud to first bring this to a work-site. I ain't sure, but I think the next smaller router was the "chrome-dome laminate trimmer" This was a tool when tools were tools.

Ever heard of the "carpenters History project" from whence it was rumoured, that as carpenters had to provide their own tools costing less than a certain amount, that the framing carpenters used to drop the new-fangled skill saws (provided by the company) off the roof as they rebelled in fear of losing their jobs to mechanization ( carpentric Luddites)eric


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## realcowtown_eric (Feb 4, 2013)

vis-a-vis the skill sander,,,me I dont thnk 150 is justifiable today, maybe 7 0r 8 years agoCan you tag it in any of yor old tool cataloques as to date???

eric


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

It looks like the serial number is 313832 as best I can make it out in the pictures. I'll have to contact the seller to confirm. I was thinking it's kinda high, but I'll likely never see another and it would make for a neat restoration project. I don't like to go overboard when doing tools like this, but I do like to make sure they're very functional despite the fact they'll end up being used very little.


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## swing (May 1, 2016)

I have several of these tools for sale - basement find - would anyone be interested?
[email protected] JON


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

Swing, I'm interested, what do you have?

Here's my latest acquisition, a Skilsaw 1/4" model 42 drill, sounds great with no bearing noise, but it didn't have a chuck key. I probably have one in my stash. Not really sure if it's rare or not but I liked it when I saw it and the price was reasonable.


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## BreeStephany (Jun 1, 2012)

Artz,

If you are interested, here is the thread on the Rockwell 653 Versa Plane resto - http://lumberjocks.com/topics/61116

I have been eyeing a Power Kraft planer to do a resto on for a friend's birthday, however, I haven't been able to find a lot of info on them. How obtainable are bearings, brushes, etc?

For Skil 100 shoes, your best bet would likely be Ebay unfortunately. You can source brushes and bearings through Eurton, belts through most online tool parts stores, however, the base parts of the Skil are becoming increasingly difficult to come by.

I do know that Accurate Manufacturing (www.accuratewaterman.com) in Corona, California machines a planer out of billet aluminum that is modeled after / a clone of the Skil 100, so there is another potential source for shoes and base parts.

I'm always interested in tool projects too


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## BreeStephany (Jun 1, 2012)

> This is a great collection. I am jealous and trying to catch up. I am fixing up a 127. Do you have any idea where I can find a lower blade guard?
> 
> If anyone is selling parts, please let me know.
> 
> ...


Unfortunately, you will likely need to find a donor saw to get a blade guard for the 127, as there really are not a whole lot of people stripping them down and selling the parts. Another option, albeit likely a bit expensive, would be to have a machinist mill you one. I will definitely keep an eye out for both parts saws and blade guards for you.


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## Zer0 (Jun 15, 2016)

On the Model 77 what kind of paint did you use? I just picked up one myself and want to do the same.


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## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

I used to have 2 of these Belt sanders. (Google Image) They were pretty robust. Chain drive from the motor to the roller, Oil check level window. Last for ever!


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## BreeStephany (Jun 1, 2012)

> On the Model 77 what kind of paint did you use? I just picked up one myself and want to do the same.
> 
> - Zer0


Zer0,

I generally use Rustoleum 7271 metallic silver enamel paint, you can get it in a rattle can or by the quart for spraying. I start with stripping the old paint off with a wire wheel, spraying with 2 ~ 3 coats of automotive primer to give a good smooth base, lightly sand if necessary and then spray with 2 ~ 3 lighter coats and then finish it with a light coat of Rustoleum enamel automotive clear coat.

I have a thread (http://lumberjocks.com/topics/61037) that outlines the complete restoration of a Skil 77.


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## BreeStephany (Jun 1, 2012)

I know a few people on here have asked about brush and cap sizes for the older Skil saws.

For *Skil 67 *- 6-1/2" worm drive saws, the replacement brush caps are Eurton 1430-CAP and the replacement brushes are Eurton 668 brushes.

For *Skil 77 & 825* - 7-1/4" & 8-1/4" worm drive saws, the replacement brush caps are Eurton 700-CAP and the replacement brushes are Eurton 281 brushes.

For *Skil 107 & 127* - 10" & 12" worm drive saws, the replacement brush caps are Eurton 840-CAP and the replacement brushes are Eurton 419 brushes.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

Thanks for the info on the brush caps, I'm currently seeking a 67, 107 & 127 of those that were to far away or I wasn't quick enough on, they all looked like those would need replacement. I'd take a 117 if one came up too, but those appear to never come up so that point would be moot.


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## BreeStephany (Jun 1, 2012)

> I d take a 117 if one came up too, but those appear to never come up so that point would be moot.
> 
> - bigblockyeti


The 117's seem to be very few and far between. Most disappeared after they were banned by OSHA due to their all to common skating and overall lack of safety features.

You still see a few here and there, mostly out of California, but when you do see them, they are generally ridiculously overpriced or in a non-repairable condition.


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## swing (May 1, 2016)

I have these tools for sale n- found in my uncles basement!


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## swing (May 1, 2016)




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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

I picked up a couple 67's today, I think I overpaid but the seller did give me a deal on the pair and they're both running pretty good.


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## swing (May 1, 2016)

I have several classics available for offer:


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

Prices? Location?


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## swing (May 1, 2016)

Located in Naugatuck CT - havent gotten to researching them- 
which one/s catch your eye and we can work on fair pricing thats a win-win!


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## runswithscissors (Nov 8, 2012)

There's a blue label #77 right now on the Bellingham WA CL. The guy wants $75. I looked at it, and was alarmed by the howling sound it made. Gears or bearings, maybe? Anyhow, I have a more recent 77 (this one from the pawn shop), and don't really need another. But I do think they are a cool tool.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

Well I've torn into one of the 67's pictured above that I suspected of having gear issues. Much to my delight the front most bearing on the armature shaft was toast and that's what was causing all of the noise. There was a little brass in the gearcase but not as bad as originally suspected. The input oil seal was leaking apparently for a while but the output seal was still good, nonetheless I plan on replacing them both as well as all five bearings, I hope sourcing them won't be too difficult.


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## Mandostan (Aug 16, 2016)

What do recommend for removing all the baked on grease and oil. I now have a skilsaw 107 and two vintage Stanley saws, saved from the landfill


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

^ Large pan, long handled stiff brush, 1/2 gallon of Gasoline…..and plenty of fresh air…..


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

Foaming engine degreaser works well, more so if you can leave everything in the sun and get it good and hot before starting cleaning. Simple green works and gas works great (plus it's cheap) but the downsides are pretty obvious.

Do you have pictures of the 107, I'm sure many would love to see them?


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## Mandostan (Aug 16, 2016)

Just started to clean it inspired by previous collection!


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## BreeStephany (Jun 1, 2012)

Generally I give parts a good soak in Awesome (cheap dollar store citrus cleaner) in my parts washer, followed by a good scrub down with naphtha. What the awesome and naphtha won't take generally comes off with a very small amount of trichlor on a rag.

Once I have the majority of the gunk off and it mostly cleaned up, I take all of my parts to a brass wire wheel to remove oil paint, etc.

If the labels are in good condition and I can't get them off without damaging them, I won't soak the coil housing or the outer blade guard because all of those will pull the paint off of the labels.

PB blaster is also good for helping break down really stubborn grease.



> What do recommend for removing all the baked on grease and oil.
> 
> - Mandostan


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## Mandostan (Aug 16, 2016)

I have the lower blade guard for my Skilsaw 107. I an trying to reinstall it. I took off the blade, the diamond blade drive shaft but cannot figure out how to remove the threaded oil seal that the guard threads to. mandostan


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## BreeStephany (Jun 1, 2012)

> I have the lower blade guard for my Skilsaw 107. I an trying to reinstall it. I took off the blade, the diamond blade drive shaft but cannot figure out how to remove the threaded oil seal that the guard threads to. mandostan
> 
> - Mandostan


To remove the guard, you don't screw the guard off, you remove the entire bearing sleeve to which the guard is attached. To remove the bearing and guard, remove the 3 screws which hold the bearing retention ring down, which are accessible through the hole in the guard.

Once you remove the screws, use PB blaster or another lubricating solvent to help the bearing slide out and pull the guard out. If it does not want to easily pull out, you can use a rubber mallet to gently strike the guard to help the bearing back out. Be very CAREFUL to not crack the guard as they tend to crack at the threads along the sleeve. You can also use a flat bar against the bearing ring to try to help 'convince' it out, but again, be very slow and careful when removing it.

If the guard is not broken or otherwise needs replacement, I do not recommend trying to remove it from the bearing assembly. You can remove it from the saw, but I do not recommend removing the threaded sleeve and bearing from the guard itself.


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## Mandostan (Aug 16, 2016)

Once again thank you for your help. I am actually trying to put the guard back on so that the saw might be able to be used. The oil,grease, must also be changed. Otherwise the saw is heavy but working. Thanks


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## BreeStephany (Jun 1, 2012)

> Once again thank you for your help. I am actually trying to put the guard back on so that the saw might be able to be used. The oil,grease, must also be changed. Otherwise the saw is heavy but working. Thanks
> 
> - Mandostan


Sorry, I completely misread your question. To access the blade side bearing and shaft seal, you must forst remove the motor drive shaft and worm gear, then remove the outer arbor bearing cap, press out the arbor shaft and then you can access the blade side bearing and seal.

The bearing and seal are held in with a retention ring which is held in place by 4 screws. Remove the screws and retention ring and then press out the bearing and seal.

To put the assembly back together, do everything in the reverse order. Once the arbor shaft is reinstalled, slightly stretch the guard spring enough to get it to engage one of the holes at the base of the bearing way. Once it engages, press in the bearing partially and then wind the spring. Once it has the desired tension, push the guard bearing in the remainder of the way and then install the retention ring and screws.

Hope that helps.


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## olrac (Feb 2, 2015)

I love your collection. They are nicely restored/conserved. I just picked up a blue label 825. It looks great and appears to have seen some use but well maintained. The worm gear looks great but the seals are leaky. Do the seals on this saw cross reference to any other/ current saws? Are they available anywhere? Thanks in advance

Carlo


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## Invaderjim (Jun 23, 2017)

This post is the reason I found this site. I just picked up another worm drive skil but the blade measures 5 3/4 or 5 5/8 hard to tell . Badge is gone and the body matches breestephanys 367 except it has finger grooves on the top handle . Didn't they make a 5 1/2 or is this the 67 6"er any help would be great is there a hidden serial #?


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

That appears to be an early 67. I have two 67's and one 367 and all have a smooth bottomed front handle as do both of my blue label 825's. I checked and my early blue label 77 also has the smooth front handle, I'm officially intrigued now.


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## Invaderjim (Jun 23, 2017)

Thanks for at least checking . My blue label 77 also has a smooth handle . Guesses on correct blade size ? An over sharpened 6" there was a 5 1/2 sidewinder I know from skil.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

I'm pretty sure most of the Skils (67, & 367) were 6" blades. I've had no luck finding new carbide tipped blades in 6" and a diamond knockout but I did find a 6 1/2" with a diamond knockout that just barely clears the lower guard for my 367 so it's up and running well with a modern blade. I've found plenty of decent 6" blades with a 1/2" round arbor hole, I haven't yet inquired to see what it would cost to have a diamond hole cut in a blade with a round arbor hole but I suspect it wouldn't be cheap. I can cut one myself but my biggest concern would be maintaining concentricity with outer edge of the blade.


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## Invaderjim (Jun 23, 2017)

I went and looked at my 367s both are labeled 6 1/2 forgot to look at the type # but one is aluminum handle . Found a Diablo with the Freud label 6" diamond knock out for about 30$ on eBay yeah no thanks


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## Invaderjim (Jun 23, 2017)

http://m.ebay.com/itm/151630044246?_mwBanner=1 Here is a 67 that's a 5 1/2 it says haha oh well we may never know looked at tons of vintage skils no finger groves handles . Maybe it was an option


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## Invaderjim (Jun 23, 2017)

It's a 5 3/4 blade measured it the blade was warped and the outer washer is for a 77 so it's too big but runs smooth other than some arcing off one brush .


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

Second from the left at the bottom of the first picture, that saw is way cool and looks very clean too!


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## Invaderjim (Jun 23, 2017)

Cummings balansaw 1950 uses a 5 3/8 blade with a double D shaped hole . Wired saw impossible blade


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## BreeStephany (Jun 1, 2012)

That appears to be an early Skil 67. I have a Diablo 6-1/2" blade with a factory diamond knockout in my 67 and it fits without issue. With that said, it's actually pretty easy to put a diamond knockout on a 6" or 5-3/4" Diablo blade.

You can use a bolt with a 5/8" grip and then a diamond knockout plug as a template that will allow you to transfer the pattern onto the blade with a scratch awl. Once you have the pattern on the blade, just use a dremel and or a file to cut in the diamond to the blade. If you use a dremel, try to keep the blade cold with water to avoid any warpage.

Just my two cents.



> This post is the reason I found this site. I just picked up another worm drive skil but the blade measures 5 3/4 or 5 5/8 hard to tell . Badge is gone and the body matches breestephanys 367 except it has finger grooves on the top handle . Didn t they make a 5 1/2 or is this the 67 6"er any help would be great is there a hidden serial #?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## Invaderjim (Jun 23, 2017)

Thanks Bree that was my exact idea for a new blade. My step dad has a pile of old hand sharpened blades for me to look through also . No way a 6 1/2 will fit this saw sadly I have those . Gonna try the dremel route . That and a wood lathe is how I put a 1 1/8 hole in my black and deckers blade


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

A neat pair for an OK price, $100 would be a bit high IMHO for either the Milwaukee 3/4" holeshooter or the Skil 825, but both for $100 is a bit more intriguing. https://stlouis.craigslist.org/tls/d/milwaukee-3-4-drill-and-825/6400446946.html


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## bnwelch (Jan 4, 2013)

I am late to this game as I just picked up a Skil 107 in decent albeit somewhat dirty condition. Saw runs, but switch appears to stick…Is there a some sort of spring behind the trigger? Does anyone have a link to a parts or owners manual for this beautiful beast?
Thanks in advance
Brian


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## BreeStephany (Jun 1, 2012)

> I am late to this game as I just picked up a Skil 107 in decent albeit somewhat dirty condition. Saw runs, but switch appears to stick…Is there a some sort of spring behind the trigger? Does anyone have a link to a parts or owners manual for this beautiful beast?
> Thanks in advance
> Brian
> 
> - bnwelch


Brian,

Here is a link to the manual for the saw . The switch is old stock # 9712, however, those switches, to my knowledge are no longer produced by Cutler-Hammer/Eaton.

If the saw is dirty, take it apart, remove the switch and clean the exterior of the switch and the housing around the switch as there may just be too much gunk in it for it to move freely.

The switch itself is not user-serviceable, and though I have been able to get them apart and back together, they generally are not reliable and not something I would want in a saw.

With that said, you can generally find NOS switches on Ebay or at some older tool repair shops around you. I bought a large lot of NOS parts a while back but unfortunately I think I'm starting to run low on switches for the wormdrives.


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## bnwelch (Jan 4, 2013)

Thanks. Just spent the better part of 2 hrs breaking down and cleaning the saw. Black label ser # 894510. Used a penetrating oil on the switch and manipulated it a bunch and she freed up. Plugged the saw into a gfi protected outlet. Voila! 
Oil level was low but clean. Added Skil worm gear lube and tried again. Much smoother and quieter. I wonder how long the saw was in its coffin before I tested it?
Thanks again for your thread and follow up. Now to locate or fabricate a diamond KO blade. 
Happy new year to you!
Brian


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## BreeStephany (Jun 1, 2012)

> Thanks again for your thread and follow up. Now to locate or fabricate a diamond KO blade.
> Happy new year to you!
> Brian
> 
> - bnwelch


Always glad to help. If you have trouble locating a blade, you can take a 5/8" bolt, nut and a diamond knockout adapter, take a fine point scratch awl and make a tight outline of the adapter and then use a rotary tool or dremel to GENTLY and CAREFULLY remove the metal from the inside of the outline, then take a fine metal file to fine tune the inside of the cutout until it properly fits.

I have done this with both my 127 and 107 without issue and both blades cut very straight. It takes some careful precision but it does work well.

If you are going to be using it for on the job work, I suggest making up a few blades at a time to make sure that you have extras should someone damage a blade.


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## bnwelch (Jan 4, 2013)

Thanks 
I saw your tutorial on that and plan on giving it a shot. I have some old steel blades I will practice on
Thanks again 
Brian


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## bnwelch (Jan 4, 2013)

Found an inexpensive 10" to try out on Amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074GYD9YJ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Keep you posted
Brian


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## bnwelch (Jan 4, 2013)

Disregard the previous post. While the description stated it has a diamond KO, in actuality, it does not…Looks like "dremeling" the <> will be my next course of action.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

For those looking for a holy grail Skil groover, there's one on ebay right now and the price is getting up there pretty quick! I thought about bidding but it shot out of my price range almost immediately.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SUPER-SUPER-RARE-SKIL-MODEL-117-7-GROOVER-SAW-CIRCULAR-MINT-MINT/223435379682


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

What is the allure of the Skil model 100 planer? On Ebay they regularly advertise at over $500 and regularly sell at over $300. I've been wanting one for a while to add to my collection as only a very occasionally user. Well I found one for $20 and it's nice enough but certainly used, even if it were in brand new condition, I can't see this as being worth close to what some are asking for their's.


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## BreeStephany (Jun 1, 2012)

> What is the allure of the Skil model 100 planer? On Ebay they regularly advertise at over $500 and regularly sell at over $300. I ve been wanting one for a while to add to my collection as only a very occasionally user. Well I found one for $20 and it s nice enough but certainly used, even if it were in brand new condition, I can t see this as being worth close to what some are asking for their s.
> 
> - bigblockyeti


I think the long shoe, amount of power and practical indestructiblility of the Skil 100 is a major attraction to them, especially for shapers, as they seem to be the go to for the surfboard shaping community.

I think the limited ready availability of the Skil 100 has caused the price to go up over the years and I think that a lot of people are counting on those that either need to replace their broken Skil 100's or expand their collection to pay high ticket prices for them.

With that said, I think with a little patience, you can find them under $100, as you have.

I would say grab that planer, especially for $20, as that's almost an unheard of price. I would count on having to tear it down, clean it and rebuild it.

Bearings, brushes and cord are all readily available new stock items. The switch you will have to look for NOS if it's bad. The blades are hard to come by but I believe there are a few people and companies fabricating them now, though they can be a bit pricey. Almost all of the hardware is common stock.

If there is plenty of material left on the blades, you can sharpen them or have them professionally sharpened to bring them back to life.

If the front shoe adjustment pin is damaged or missing, there is a shaper online that fabricates them for a pretty decent price shipped.

Just my two cents.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

At the time of writing my post, I already had it. While it's certainly been well used, it's been well cared for too. The blades are sharp, it's quiet and smooth, the brushes have plenty of life left, the switch works perfectly and it has a repair tag on it from 00' where it had a new cord installed and hasn't been used since. The guy was probably in his late 60's and is clearing out his dad's and grandpa's stuff as he prepares to downsize from a large property with multiple building including an 1800 sqft. shop. I not so subtlety let him know I'm VERY interested in anything else he might run across as he cleans everything out.


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## BreeStephany (Jun 1, 2012)

> At the time of writing my post, I already had it. While it s certainly been well used, it s been well cared for.
> 
> - bigblockyeti


Nice find and an incredible price! I thought I did well when I picked mine up for just over $100!


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

I suspect the guy either didn't do his homework on the value or was more interested in unloading what he could just for the sake of getting it gone. When I met him he was driving a $100K+ AMG Mercedes.


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## l4tt310Xb8jm (Jul 16, 2020)

The one and only skilsaw in my "collection"...Ser # 13057, must be pretty early mfg?


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## PatMcD (Jun 3, 2020)

Just picked up an old blue label 77 in its case to go along with my 127..


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

^ Awesome, you can never have too many Skil worm saws!


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

The Rockwell 653 in the first post has my attention and I've finally found one for what I believe is a good deal and it appears complete. My concern is any unobtainium parts that are failure prone, are there any? I've seen thse occasionally and usually over (sometimes well over) $200 which is outside of my budget for something I only want and don't really need but they're just so darn cool looking.


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## BreeStephany (Jun 1, 2012)

> The Rockwell 653 in the first post has my attention and I ve finally found one for what I believe is a good deal and it appears complete. My concern is any unobtainium parts that are failure prone, are there any? I ve seen thse occasionally and usually over (sometimes well over) $200 which is outside of my budget for something I only want and don t really need but they re just so darn cool looking.
> 
> - bigblockyeti


The hardest part to find for the 653 is the drum blade, as these are no longer produced so you have to find NOS blades, which I have generally seen go for $75~$100 each.

If the blade is in good shape and you can generally track down most of the other 'consumable' parts pretty easily. The brushes are still produced by Porter Cable, the belt is a common part, you can easily track down the bearings, the switch was a common part by Porter Cable and you can generally track down NOS parts for that as well if needed.

If the blade is in good shape and the planer is in good shape, they are a good find, but if the blade is trashed, tracking down a replacement might take you over budget pretty easily.

Just my two cents.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

Thanks for the info, the belt was my concern, I didn't realize they used a drum, presumably similar to the one used in the 126?


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## BreeStephany (Jun 1, 2012)

> Thanks for the info, the belt was my concern, I didn t realize they used a drum, presumably similar to the one used in the 126?
> 
> - bigblockyeti


Yes, the drum is of the same design as the 126 but of a larger diameter. The belt, if I remember correctly, is toothed/synchronous, but I was able to buy a few new 3rd party belts a few years back when I restored my planer.

I will try to see if I can dig up where I sourced them from.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

I'm knee deep in a 324 tear down and while the worm is pristine (or will be after polishing), the bronze worm wheel is in rough shape and I need to source a new or lightly used one if I am to use this sander and expect anything resembling reliability. If I can't, It'll be shelf dweller that maybe has a couple hours running life left even with everything cleaned up and properly lubed.


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## Artz (Mar 29, 2014)

> What is the allure of the Skil model 100 planer? On Ebay they regularly advertise at over $500 and regularly sell at over $300. I ve been wanting one for a while to add to my collection as only a very occasionally user. Well I found one for $20 and it s nice enough but certainly used, even if it were in brand new condition, I can t see this as being worth close to what some are asking for their s.
> 
> - bigblockyeti


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## Artz (Mar 29, 2014)

> What is the allure of the Skil model 100 planer? On Ebay they regularly advertise at over $500 and regularly sell at over $300. I ve been wanting one for a while to add to my collection as only a very occasionally user. Well I found one for $20 and it s nice enough but certainly used, even if it were in brand new condition, I can t see this as being worth close to what some are asking for their s.
> 
> - bigblockyeti
> 
> - Artz


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