# **UPDATE** inventors?? i need help !!



## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

might be impossible to do but i am looking for an easier way to move my DP table up and down i know floor models have like a rack with a turning handle not sure if that would work or not but i defiantly need help with this i guess getting older and shoulders and arms don't work as they should thanks for all help :<))


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## Dutchy (Jun 18, 2012)

What about a simple (12V electric) jack below the table. Maybe a feather is needed for down movement.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

I've seen a lot of different ways that was accomplished. Some type of jacking system under the table like Dutchy suggested is one way… scissor jack, bottle jack, bumper jack, floor jack, etc. I have also have seen people use linear actuators turned vertical and wired with an up/down control panel. The old school machine shops would put a pulley on top of the column with one end attached to the table and the other to a hand crank mounted on the back/side of the press or even a winch to motorize it. Or you could get fancy, depending on your fabrication skills, and retro-fit a rack/pinion crank. Lots of ways to be creative 

Cheers,
Brad


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## BadBob (Oct 13, 2008)

How about this?

http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/reviews/easyriser.htm


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

Many years ago I bought a "Piric Easy Riser" that worked on a pulley system with a lead window sash weight travelling up and down the DP shaft. When I moved to variable speed, I lost access to the shaft so I don't use it. If you want, you are more than welcome to pick it up from Churchill FOC.

Just in case you don't have the time to fly over, here is a picture of it's concept….









Now the product is no longer available so I'm guessing the pattents may be a mute subject.. If you want, PM me and I can upload the manual to DropBox and link you to it.


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## Knockonit (Nov 5, 2017)

fulcrum and lever, make one you can set up real quick and dismantle as fast, unless you are doing the up and downs daily or mulitiple times.
good luck
rj


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

Take #2...


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## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

sorry ducky take 2 wont work until i get a rack :<((


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

maybe you could build/buy a small one of these?


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## Macrosill (Nov 27, 2016)

Maybe a long stroke electric actuator mounted to the bottom of the table and a lower location on the main shaft. Wired with a on/off/on momentary contact switch and you have an electric raising and lowering table. You would still have to tighten the table to prevent twisting.


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## moke (Oct 19, 2010)

I have a floor model, but I went to harbor freight and got a hydraulic cylinder for a engine hoist. I rigged it under my table with large hose clamps and some spacers I cut on my band saw. It is awesome…better than a crank any day. Mine was a long stroke because of the height I needed, but I am sure you could find one right for your purpose.
I'll give you more particulars if you are interested…....

I have been going to buy a new DP for years but I really like the way this works…


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

Yeah, Mike… Please post some pictures of your hydraulic cylinder setup. That sounds pretty nice.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

A pulley and counterweight would be fairly simple and effective make the table weigh nothing. The Easy Riser system posted above is the idea although the weight could be exterior.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

Tony,
There is only one answer.
Sell it and buy your self a new one.

We havent lived this long to have to put up with dinosaurs, its bad enough our bodies are that way and we cannot do anything about it however we we dont need our tools to be the same. Sell it and buy your self a new one.

Its almost Christmas and I betting your thinking about what you are going to buy eveyone else so add another name on the list! Sell it and buy your self a new one.

On the 26th I will be expecting to see just what you got, ...no excuses will be accepted !

BTW I have added a note in my diary to check on you later in case you forget to post the update.

Just in case you missed the hidden message Sell it and buy your self a new one.

That LPG lathe my be due for an update as well

Merry Cristmas Buddy!!!


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## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

Robert ….. send Santa my way i ask for one :<))

Mike ….i would like to see what you came up with :<))


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

> I have a floor model, but I went to harbor freight and got a hydraulic cylinder for a engine hoist. I rigged it under my table with large hose clamps and some spacers I cut on my band saw. It is awesome…better than a crank any day. Mine was a long stroke because of the height I needed, but I am sure you could find one right for your purpose.
> - moke


There are a few members over at OWWM who have gone that route as well, and appear to be quite happy with the results. With a 20% off coupon, you can get it for less than $40. Here is a link to the cylinder: 3 Ton Heavy Duty Long Ram Hydraulic Flat Bottom Jack

Cheers,
Brad


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

> We haven't lived this long to have to put up with dinosaurs,
> 
> - robscastle


Hey *rc*, not having a go at you, however, where do you get a DP with *old-people-friendly-tabletops*? I just bought a new DP and paid more than a small ransom for it… yet I still need my can of spinach every time I want to change the table height. I have replaced the supplied handle with a Jet DP handle as it has better leverage, however, the spinach is still my first call for lift power… fortunately Mr. Gravity helps the other way… FOC

I am eagerly following the suggestions here to see if any would suit my modus operandi. Gents I have relished all suggestion, and in no way am I attempting to criticise any offering so please… if you whip me… do it gently.

The *Piric* design seems the best, however, a single weight on the outside seem unbalanced (though a set on both sides might be a not as aesthetic but better solution).

On face value the hydraulics had my juices flowing, however, a 20" overall lift capacity seems a tad short for a pedestal DP.

*PS.* I am always in the market for upgrades. In fact, talking about trade ins…
I'm closely considering trading in our *Victorian Santa *for a new one as our tight rrrs one must have me on his naughty list as he wouldn't even replace my broken 1/8" broken twist drill bit with a new one.

*PPS*. Merry Christmas all… and hope *your Santa *fulfils your woodworking dreams and doesn't ignore your censored desires.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

I bought this RAD some time ago its got a rack for elevating the table.

I will get it out tomorrow and see if the crank is oldie friendly, I though it was but I may be mistaken

Mind you Izzys mod is OK but for pure functionality your counterweight system is the most practical.

I will see if I have a 1/8 twist drill and send it to you. ... come to think of it, another dinosaur why is it 1/8 and not 3.2 mm


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## moke (Oct 19, 2010)

Life is a little screwed up this weekend….but I'll get it done

Mr Unix…My only concern is he will be having some length restrictions because of a Bench top…


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## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

please take your time Mike as i have all the time i need …...but now that i see the jack that Brad showed …i to have a feeling this would not work …... still NO SANTA Robert :<((


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

Tony,

Santa comes from within

*There is only one answer.
Sell it and buy yourself a new one.*


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Location of the counterweight is irrelevant, inside, outside, doesn't matter except aesthetically. Any counterweight, whether a spring, hydraulics, or weight and pulley, is going to have limited travel. I really think the best would be motorized rack and pinion.


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

> ..... Santa comes from within…..
> - robscastle


So that's why I'm always broke at Christmas time… too generous to myself..



> ... why is it 1/8 and not 3.2 mm
> 
> - robscastle


Because the button on my digital callipers is dodgy and I find it hard to change it from Imperial to Metric… Why not get a new one (callipers that us), well it all loops back to my dodgy Santa issue…

Now that we are talking about replacement equipment, 1/8" converts to 3.175mm and I don't have an accurate enough tape measure to confidentally take off that .025mm without the job looking out of whack.

Nevertheless *rc*, you get an "*E*" for *E*ffort.

*PS.* Thanks for the offer of a 1/8" bit, but if you do it must be Cobalt… I'm replacing all my bits with Cobalt… Are the better? who cares… I just like the name Cobalt.

*PPS.* I do agree about buying a new one… a more benevolent Santa…



> Location of the counterweight is irrelevant, inside, outside, doesn t matter except aesthetically. Any counterweight, whether a spring, hydraulics, or weight and pulley, is going to have limited travel. I really think the best would be motorized rack and pinion.
> 
> - Rick_M


Sorry *Rick*, kinda disagree about location, location, location. If I didn't live in Churchill, my family would still be speaking to me (maybe).

Actually I think the weight on the outside would start ringing all church sorts of bells when you swing the table around which may encourage a visit by that recalcitrant man in red… no not uncle Nick but St. Nick (aka Santa) and I'm not giving him (or her to be 100% politically correct) any milk and cookies… and he can pick up his own reindeer droppings.

Now as for aesthetics… we all keep our workshops spotless… don't we? With my untidy workshop, I'd miss the effect of an outside mechanism!

I do like your suggestion of rack and pinion (revised). I say "(revised)" as my DP already has a rack and pinion lift mechanism but it still requires *both* Popeye and Bluto (and Olive Oyl to operate… OK I can't count… that's why I rely on tape measures). I have been drifting towards the idea of a cordless drill to replace the handle but I don't have a chuck large enough to accommodate the "spindle" on the DP. However, after my "Hulk Power Arms" loose their green colour I will follow further… Unless anyone out there has already found such a usable work around. 
I'm open to suggestions… and NO, self harm is not an acceptable option!


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

> please take your time Mike as i have all the time i need …...
> 
> - GR8HUNTER


*GR8*, I'm gonna be a pain in the… Hmm!... OK… call me Mr. Piles…

Unless your time machine has transported you back to your teens… most of us aging senior don't have *all the time*...

Not questioning your seniority, but if you are on the North end of a South moving 60, the time we have left is our most precious possession/commodity. I take umbrage when people say time is free… It may be loosely tagged *as free*, but when is a limited resource without a high price ticket.

If I may suggest… "*Hurry up Mike*".... If *YOU* can *spare the time*!


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## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

update : today i bought a weight with nut welded on top ,2 pulleys ,and a cable so will post pictures tomorrow ….if i get to be working on it :<)) 
all options are great ideas …but i think the counterweight is my best plan ….since travel on bench DP is around 11 inches total :<))


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

> .....
> I do like your suggestion of rack and pinion (revised). I say "(revised)" as my DP already has a rack and pinion lift mechanism
> 
> - LittleBlackDuck


It shouldn't be difficult to rig up a motor, especially if you can weld. It's probably better if the motor isn't attached direct drive to the crank arm as that would make the table even heavier.


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## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

VERY FIRST PLAN :









THEN ON TO PLAN 2 ….THE COUNTERWEIGHT 









FASTEN CABLE TO WEIGHT :









THEN TIME TO FASTEN THE PULLEY :









THEN CONNECT TO TABLE : I STILL NEED A LITTLE MORE THOUGHT AND WORK HERE :<))









THIS WORKS VERY NICE 
COST WAS AROUND $20.00 AND ALOT BETTER THEN IT WAS THANKS TO ALL FOR THE IDEAS 
SOME MORE PICTURES


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Looks like it worked well!


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

I like the weight down the shaft…. nothing better than getting shafted. Keeps it stable and with a bit of tape or packing you can stop the ringing/clanging in your ears (otherwise stop drinking).


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

Well thats very clever and only $20 bucks wow!

So thats about the cost of a new one minus $20 you have now got available to spend on something else now!

Looking forward to seeing something new next post!


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## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

> Well thats very clever and only $20 bucks wow!
> 
> So thats about the cost of a new one minus $20 you have now got available to spend on something else now!
> 
> ...


maybe i should take pictures of my new band saw …was waiting to also do a review :<))


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

Cobalt eh, did you lose the key or forget the combination to your safe?


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## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

> Cobalt eh, did you lose the key or forget the combination to your safe?
> 
> - robscastle


I guess i have to kiss my safe more and tell her she is the best women in the whole world :<))


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

That is a neat solution GR8. Apparent that the access to the column shaft was the key to your major success. 
Unfortunately as we strive for innovation (guilty me), such basic access gets hindered, whether by choice or bad design, and limits our subsequent options/enhancements dramatically.



> Cobalt eh, did you lose the key or forget the combination to your safe?
> 
> - robscastle


Long time between drinks* rc *so I hope I'm still on the same page as you with this topic. With T & J and other builds, the requirement for small sized drill bits is paramount. I found that the standard bits either deviated or broke… Yes the Cobalt cost double (and at times more) but they are just that much stronger to justify the extra shekels…

I was stewpid and bought a *full set *of Cobal… stewpid as you don't need as much strength/rigidity in the larger bits… however, when it comes to cutting power…. try a Cobalt vs HSS on some steel and you will become a Cobalt transgender… Cobalt works wonders on a snip and tuck…
Anyway Cobalt sounds sexy and someone needs to keep the "rip of millionaires/businesses" screwing the gullible (DOH! me)...

*PS. GR8*, lest not go to where you "kiss your safe"... censorship is rife!


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

Spam warning!


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## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

UPDATE**** I have fixed the problem of the fastening to table i simple put a 4 inch S.S. pipe clamp to it and fasten a chain link in it


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

> UPDATE**** I have fixed the problem of the fastening to table i simple put a 4 inch S.S. pipe clamp to it and fasten a chain link in it
> 
> - GR8HUNTER
> *


*
That all make cents *GR8*, but a pciture would be worth $'s..


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## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

here's how i fastened the cable to table :<))


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

How about this?










Add a yoke under the table, attach the yoke to the ratchet arm, and put the table top press on either side or the back of the drill press!
*Just a little brain fart!*


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