# Tool Mod



## swirt (Apr 6, 2010)

*Handscrew Dogs*

If you have 3/4" bench dog holes on your bench and a couple of handscrew clamps then in 10 minutes you can merge the two into a very flexible and powerful clamping system that works with small boards, long boards and even irregular pieces. I'll let the photos tell the story … and keep in mind, the modification to the handscrew does not prevent you from using it as an ordinary handscrew too. I use them on my workbench and my sawbenches. 










Clicking on any of the photos will take you to the more detailed explanation.

There are only three real considerations:
1) The hole you drill for the peg should be plumb, so use a drill press if you can.
2) Oak or other hardwood dowel is better than poplar or other soft wood.
3) Regarding the size of the handscrew. Larger handscrews limit how close they can work together, but smaller handscrews limit the maximium opening of the jaws. I like the 6 or 8" handscrews but size them based on your needs.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

swirt said:


> *Handscrew Dogs*
> 
> If you have 3/4" bench dog holes on your bench and a couple of handscrew clamps then in 10 minutes you can merge the two into a very flexible and powerful clamping system that works with small boards, long boards and even irregular pieces. I'll let the photos tell the story … and keep in mind, the modification to the handscrew does not prevent you from using it as an ordinary handscrew too. I use them on my workbench and my sawbenches.
> 
> ...


Interesting idea


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## Timbo (Aug 21, 2008)

swirt said:


> *Handscrew Dogs*
> 
> If you have 3/4" bench dog holes on your bench and a couple of handscrew clamps then in 10 minutes you can merge the two into a very flexible and powerful clamping system that works with small boards, long boards and even irregular pieces. I'll let the photos tell the story … and keep in mind, the modification to the handscrew does not prevent you from using it as an ordinary handscrew too. I use them on my workbench and my sawbenches.
> 
> ...


I will definitely be making some dog holes in a couple handscrew clamps. Great idea, thanks for posting!


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## DanLyke (Feb 8, 2007)

swirt said:


> *Handscrew Dogs*
> 
> If you have 3/4" bench dog holes on your bench and a couple of handscrew clamps then in 10 minutes you can merge the two into a very flexible and powerful clamping system that works with small boards, long boards and even irregular pieces. I'll let the photos tell the story … and keep in mind, the modification to the handscrew does not prevent you from using it as an ordinary handscrew too. I use them on my workbench and my sawbenches.
> 
> ...


Oooh. Good idea. I'll be doing gluing in some dowels shortly. Thanks!


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## swirt (Apr 6, 2010)

swirt said:


> *Handscrew Dogs*
> 
> If you have 3/4" bench dog holes on your bench and a couple of handscrew clamps then in 10 minutes you can merge the two into a very flexible and powerful clamping system that works with small boards, long boards and even irregular pieces. I'll let the photos tell the story … and keep in mind, the modification to the handscrew does not prevent you from using it as an ordinary handscrew too. I use them on my workbench and my sawbenches.
> 
> ...


It is so quick and easy and it is amazing how useful they become.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

swirt said:


> *Handscrew Dogs*
> 
> If you have 3/4" bench dog holes on your bench and a couple of handscrew clamps then in 10 minutes you can merge the two into a very flexible and powerful clamping system that works with small boards, long boards and even irregular pieces. I'll let the photos tell the story … and keep in mind, the modification to the handscrew does not prevent you from using it as an ordinary handscrew too. I use them on my workbench and my sawbenches.
> 
> ...


great idea! thanks for the post.


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## lanwater (May 14, 2010)

swirt said:


> *Handscrew Dogs*
> 
> If you have 3/4" bench dog holes on your bench and a couple of handscrew clamps then in 10 minutes you can merge the two into a very flexible and powerful clamping system that works with small boards, long boards and even irregular pieces. I'll let the photos tell the story … and keep in mind, the modification to the handscrew does not prevent you from using it as an ordinary handscrew too. I use them on my workbench and my sawbenches.
> 
> ...


Cool idea! Thanks for sharing.


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

swirt said:


> *Handscrew Dogs*
> 
> If you have 3/4" bench dog holes on your bench and a couple of handscrew clamps then in 10 minutes you can merge the two into a very flexible and powerful clamping system that works with small boards, long boards and even irregular pieces. I'll let the photos tell the story … and keep in mind, the modification to the handscrew does not prevent you from using it as an ordinary handscrew too. I use them on my workbench and my sawbenches.
> 
> ...


clever idea 
consider it as officialy stolen from you…....LOL

thank´s for sharing

Dennis


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

swirt said:


> *Handscrew Dogs*
> 
> If you have 3/4" bench dog holes on your bench and a couple of handscrew clamps then in 10 minutes you can merge the two into a very flexible and powerful clamping system that works with small boards, long boards and even irregular pieces. I'll let the photos tell the story … and keep in mind, the modification to the handscrew does not prevent you from using it as an ordinary handscrew too. I use them on my workbench and my sawbenches.
> 
> ...


Great idea.


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## swirt (Apr 6, 2010)

swirt said:


> *Handscrew Dogs*
> 
> If you have 3/4" bench dog holes on your bench and a couple of handscrew clamps then in 10 minutes you can merge the two into a very flexible and powerful clamping system that works with small boards, long boards and even irregular pieces. I'll let the photos tell the story … and keep in mind, the modification to the handscrew does not prevent you from using it as an ordinary handscrew too. I use them on my workbench and my sawbenches.
> 
> ...


I probably should point out that Rockler has their 8" handscrews on sale right now for $4.99. They aren't as solidly built as my Jorgensen's and one of the handles was not quite straight, but they work well for a great price.


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## DanLyke (Feb 8, 2007)

swirt said:


> *Handscrew Dogs*
> 
> If you have 3/4" bench dog holes on your bench and a couple of handscrew clamps then in 10 minutes you can merge the two into a very flexible and powerful clamping system that works with small boards, long boards and even irregular pieces. I'll let the photos tell the story … and keep in mind, the modification to the handscrew does not prevent you from using it as an ordinary handscrew too. I use them on my workbench and my sawbenches.
> 
> ...


Swirt, I bought 10 of 'em last time they were on sale. Yeah, they're no Jorgensen's, but for the price they're great for "sure, I'll drill a ¾" hole in 'em and stuff a dowel in and see what happens!"


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## donjoe (Feb 6, 2010)

swirt said:


> *Handscrew Dogs*
> 
> If you have 3/4" bench dog holes on your bench and a couple of handscrew clamps then in 10 minutes you can merge the two into a very flexible and powerful clamping system that works with small boards, long boards and even irregular pieces. I'll let the photos tell the story … and keep in mind, the modification to the handscrew does not prevent you from using it as an ordinary handscrew too. I use them on my workbench and my sawbenches.
> 
> ...


Unique and useful idea. I will file this one in my memory.


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## swirt (Apr 6, 2010)

swirt said:


> *Handscrew Dogs*
> 
> If you have 3/4" bench dog holes on your bench and a couple of handscrew clamps then in 10 minutes you can merge the two into a very flexible and powerful clamping system that works with small boards, long boards and even irregular pieces. I'll let the photos tell the story … and keep in mind, the modification to the handscrew does not prevent you from using it as an ordinary handscrew too. I use them on my workbench and my sawbenches.
> 
> ...


LOL Dan, notice I mounted the peg in my Rockler's and into my Jorgensen's  (not that the peg would damage either of them in any way)


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## swirt (Apr 6, 2010)

swirt said:


> *Handscrew Dogs*
> 
> If you have 3/4" bench dog holes on your bench and a couple of handscrew clamps then in 10 minutes you can merge the two into a very flexible and powerful clamping system that works with small boards, long boards and even irregular pieces. I'll let the photos tell the story … and keep in mind, the modification to the handscrew does not prevent you from using it as an ordinary handscrew too. I use them on my workbench and my sawbenches.
> 
> ...


oops supposed to read "...and NOT into my Jorgensens"


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

swirt said:


> *Handscrew Dogs*
> 
> If you have 3/4" bench dog holes on your bench and a couple of handscrew clamps then in 10 minutes you can merge the two into a very flexible and powerful clamping system that works with small boards, long boards and even irregular pieces. I'll let the photos tell the story … and keep in mind, the modification to the handscrew does not prevent you from using it as an ordinary handscrew too. I use them on my workbench and my sawbenches.
> 
> ...


Swirt I am building a small bench that will sit on top of my existing bench. I want to get my dovetails up enough to see them. I have looked at easy ways to set up a simple vise. I was going with a pipe clamp system. Dude this is the ticket. Its modular and with simple dog holes the setups are endless. If I break something its an easy replacement. Thanks


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## swirt (Apr 6, 2010)

swirt said:


> *Handscrew Dogs*
> 
> If you have 3/4" bench dog holes on your bench and a couple of handscrew clamps then in 10 minutes you can merge the two into a very flexible and powerful clamping system that works with small boards, long boards and even irregular pieces. I'll let the photos tell the story … and keep in mind, the modification to the handscrew does not prevent you from using it as an ordinary handscrew too. I use them on my workbench and my sawbenches.
> 
> ...


Enjoy SuperDav. I use mine quite often. My only complaint is that the dog peg sticking out the side makes them not fit on a rack as nicely as a non-dogged handscrew, and that is a pretty minor complaint.

The trick is to stay fluid in your thinking about how to use them. There are a lot of options.

Hmmm dovetails close enough to see them… you mean you can't just stoop and squint like I do?


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## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

swirt said:


> *Handscrew Dogs*
> 
> If you have 3/4" bench dog holes on your bench and a couple of handscrew clamps then in 10 minutes you can merge the two into a very flexible and powerful clamping system that works with small boards, long boards and even irregular pieces. I'll let the photos tell the story … and keep in mind, the modification to the handscrew does not prevent you from using it as an ordinary handscrew too. I use them on my workbench and my sawbenches.
> 
> ...


Ditto superD, Man the best ideas are always the KISS ones. I like the way your brain works. Consider this idea stolen. Now I have to go pray for a crop failure for all these wild oats I've been sowing.


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

swirt said:


> *Handscrew Dogs*
> 
> If you have 3/4" bench dog holes on your bench and a couple of handscrew clamps then in 10 minutes you can merge the two into a very flexible and powerful clamping system that works with small boards, long boards and even irregular pieces. I'll let the photos tell the story … and keep in mind, the modification to the handscrew does not prevent you from using it as an ordinary handscrew too. I use them on my workbench and my sawbenches.
> 
> ...


I hear ya Rand Keep It Simple Stupid. Wild oats, you just go enjoy that new saw.


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## swirt (Apr 6, 2010)

swirt said:


> *Handscrew Dogs*
> 
> If you have 3/4" bench dog holes on your bench and a couple of handscrew clamps then in 10 minutes you can merge the two into a very flexible and powerful clamping system that works with small boards, long boards and even irregular pieces. I'll let the photos tell the story … and keep in mind, the modification to the handscrew does not prevent you from using it as an ordinary handscrew too. I use them on my workbench and my sawbenches.
> 
> ...


SImple Stupid ...that's me 

SuperDav, On your dedicated dovetailing bench, depending on how you design it, if you set it up so there are a row of dog holes close to the edge that make it so that the inner face of the handscrew clamp is flush with the edge of the bench, then the pair of handscrew dogs make a pretty effective dovetailing vice similar in function to the one Chris Schwarz made so popular a year or so ago.


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

swirt said:


> *Handscrew Dogs*
> 
> If you have 3/4" bench dog holes on your bench and a couple of handscrew clamps then in 10 minutes you can merge the two into a very flexible and powerful clamping system that works with small boards, long boards and even irregular pieces. I'll let the photos tell the story … and keep in mind, the modification to the handscrew does not prevent you from using it as an ordinary handscrew too. I use them on my workbench and my sawbenches.
> 
> ...


Swirt that's what I was going to do. I want the dowel arranged so the clamp is flush with the face of the bench. Thanks as always.


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## swirt (Apr 6, 2010)

*Cambering the Iron for a Scrub Plane*

[Appears in its entirety here: Cambering a Scrub Plane Iron but what follows is the short version.]

If you have a true scrub plane, like the Stanley 40, then you probably already have an iron with the right camber (curve) on the cutting edge. If you are in need of a scrub plane for flattening a twisted board there are a lot of good reasons to use an old wooden, transitional plane (the ones half wood with a metal carriage on top) or metal bench plane. Personally I like my Stanley #5 Jack plane that I converted to a scrub. I like the longer length and the added mass.

Converting is actually pretty easy, just back the frog back a bit to open the throat and camber the iron appropriately. Frog backed off…check. Iron cambered appropriately????

The question of how big a curve should be put on the iron is tough, and it different for every width iron. but just because it is different for every iron, doesn't mean you should just fiddle with it and try to get it right. It is too easy to come up with a wrong angle.


Finding the happy medium only takes a bit of math to come up with the perfect radius for cambering the scrub plane iron.


Plug in your measurements and pop out an answer. I use 3/32" as the reveal. That lets me take a deep scrub but gives me room to back it off too.


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

swirt said:


> *Cambering the Iron for a Scrub Plane*
> 
> [Appears in its entirety here: Cambering a Scrub Plane Iron but what follows is the short version.]
> 
> ...


thank´s Swirt
favorited for future use

Dennis


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

swirt said:


> *Cambering the Iron for a Scrub Plane*
> 
> [Appears in its entirety here: Cambering a Scrub Plane Iron but what follows is the short version.]
> 
> ...


Really useful info, I have been thinking if we should have a special area on LJ for handplane info.
I'm still full of questions. Like what are the correct honing angel for a Record 311, or my old Stanley 62…
Do you know any recourse for those questions?
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## swirt (Apr 6, 2010)

swirt said:


> *Cambering the Iron for a Scrub Plane*
> 
> [Appears in its entirety here: Cambering a Scrub Plane Iron but what follows is the short version.]
> 
> ...


Sorry Mafe I have no knowledge of either of those planes, but if you want to send them to me… 
I agree though handplane info section would be good, but probably just using the tags feature of the site is the best option.


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## swirt (Apr 6, 2010)

swirt said:


> *Cambering the Iron for a Scrub Plane*
> 
> [Appears in its entirety here: Cambering a Scrub Plane Iron but what follows is the short version.]
> 
> ...


Just updating this to say that I modified the formula to account for frog angle.










If the math gives you a headache, I made a little plane iron camber calculator to do the calculations for you. Simply enter the frog angle, the width of your iron and the actual depth of cut you want to take and it will tell you the radius needed.


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

swirt said:


> *Cambering the Iron for a Scrub Plane*
> 
> [Appears in its entirety here: Cambering a Scrub Plane Iron but what follows is the short version.]
> 
> ...


thank´s for the update

Dennis


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## swirt (Apr 6, 2010)

*New Chisel Handles*

So after a bit of practice and getting use to my Bungee Lathe, I finally completed my goal to get get some good handles on my old socket chisels. I patterned the handle off of the handle that is on my Witherby firmer chisel (third from the top)








I made them just a wee bit longer (I don't like it when my pinky hangs off the end of the handle) and put some octagonal flats around the main section of the body.

Why Octagonal flats? A picture is worth a thousand words:









I used cherry, mahogany and what I think might be butternut (one side is red-ish, one side is purple-ish ??) Hickory or hornbeam would have been better choices, but I had neither available to me. The finish is amber shellac.

They aren't exactly identical, my lathe skills still need more work in order to duplicate patterns more exactly, but they are a lot closer than what they used to be

I'll cover the "how I did it" in my next post. (edited 12/10/10 to add the link of making the chisel handles)

If you are interested in more details and the makes of each chisel there is more info at the source.

Source: Replacement Chisel Handles


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

swirt said:


> *New Chisel Handles*
> 
> So after a bit of practice and getting use to my Bungee Lathe, I finally completed my goal to get get some good handles on my old socket chisels. I patterned the handle off of the handle that is on my Witherby firmer chisel (third from the top)
> 
> ...


these look fantastic and very comfortable - and who said they all have to be identical?!?


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## swirt (Apr 6, 2010)

swirt said:


> *New Chisel Handles*
> 
> So after a bit of practice and getting use to my Bungee Lathe, I finally completed my goal to get get some good handles on my old socket chisels. I patterned the handle off of the handle that is on my Witherby firmer chisel (third from the top)
> 
> ...


Thanks, you are right, nobody says they have to be identical. I'd just feel like a more accomplished turner if I could get any two things I turn to match. LOL


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## dkirtley (Mar 11, 2010)

swirt said:


> *New Chisel Handles*
> 
> So after a bit of practice and getting use to my Bungee Lathe, I finally completed my goal to get get some good handles on my old socket chisels. I patterned the handle off of the handle that is on my Witherby firmer chisel (third from the top)
> 
> ...


Looking good. Didn't want to try the leather?  It is pretty easy as well.


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## racerglen (Oct 15, 2010)

swirt said:


> *New Chisel Handles*
> 
> So after a bit of practice and getting use to my Bungee Lathe, I finally completed my goal to get get some good handles on my old socket chisels. I patterned the handle off of the handle that is on my Witherby firmer chisel (third from the top)
> 
> ...


I went through the chisel match issue making a set of handles for my home made lathe tools as 
well..some look similar, others ..hhhhmmmmm…
You came a lot closer than I managed. Lookin' GOOD !


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## swirt (Apr 6, 2010)

swirt said:


> *New Chisel Handles*
> 
> So after a bit of practice and getting use to my Bungee Lathe, I finally completed my goal to get get some good handles on my old socket chisels. I patterned the handle off of the handle that is on my Witherby firmer chisel (third from the top)
> 
> ...


David, I thought about leather washers.They would have been easy enough to do since I cut a tenon on the end of the handle anyway to separate it from the rest of the blank.

I chose not to for two reasons.
1) I have no appropriate leather (really crappy excuse, but true)
2) I don't like the feel of the 4 washered handles I had.

I may end up keeping one set configured with only wood handles for hand use, and maybe set up the firmer chisels with washers for heavier chopping.


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## docholladay (Jan 9, 2010)

swirt said:


> *New Chisel Handles*
> 
> So after a bit of practice and getting use to my Bungee Lathe, I finally completed my goal to get get some good handles on my old socket chisels. I patterned the handle off of the handle that is on my Witherby firmer chisel (third from the top)
> 
> ...


Swirt,

Well done. Nice set of chisels you have there. I have a bunch of old vintage chisels as well. The steel in those old chisels just seems to hold an edge better.

Doc


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

swirt said:


> *New Chisel Handles*
> 
> So after a bit of practice and getting use to my Bungee Lathe, I finally completed my goal to get get some good handles on my old socket chisels. I patterned the handle off of the handle that is on my Witherby firmer chisel (third from the top)
> 
> ...


Hi Swirt,
They are looking really good!
I think it would be a shame if the were all alike.
I have also a bunch of old chisels that I want to re-handle, so soon my workshop will be full of chips from the lathe.
But I have been thinking to grind the chisels up so they will change from firmer chisels into bevel edged chisels.
What do you think about that? Why did you choose to keep your flat sides?
I also work on some old chisels, that I want to make into a set of 'home made' dovetail chisels, with 45 degree edge, and all that jazz.
Look here: http://www.hand-cut-dovetails.com/tools/8chisEgs/edges.html
Best thoughts my friend,
Mads


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## alba (Jul 31, 2010)

swirt said:


> *New Chisel Handles*
> 
> So after a bit of practice and getting use to my Bungee Lathe, I finally completed my goal to get get some good handles on my old socket chisels. I patterned the handle off of the handle that is on my Witherby firmer chisel (third from the top)
> 
> ...


Swirt those are great handles. 
A lot of thought went into them, nearly a study of ergonomics. 
You will appreciate the wee differences, each one will have it's own 
character.

Jamie


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## swirt (Apr 6, 2010)

swirt said:


> *New Chisel Handles*
> 
> So after a bit of practice and getting use to my Bungee Lathe, I finally completed my goal to get get some good handles on my old socket chisels. I patterned the handle off of the handle that is on my Witherby firmer chisel (third from the top)
> 
> ...


Doc I think you are right about the quality of steel in the old chisels. It amazes me that some of them are well over 100 years old, yet have no rust or signs of fatigue.

Mafe, Great question. I kept the firmers as firmers for 4 good reasons.

1) I have beveled edge chisels in 1/4", 1/2" and 1" and those meet my dovetail needs as well as my "general" chiseling needs. I don't have a need for other widths. The 1/8th inch mortising chisel also has beveled sides, but it is very tall for strength on what is such a narrow chisel.

2) The summer I built my timberframe gazebo (what was supposed to be a 2 week project took more like 8 months, but it was a great time and I loved every minute of it) I spent long days with chisels in my hands nearly continuously so I got pretty good with a chisel and big mortises. What I found, is that beveled edge chisels are more likely to have their narrow sides dig into the side of the mortise and deform it if a mallet blow is not perfect or the chisel not held perfectly straight. The firmer chisels because of their thicker sides are less likely to damage the walls of the mortise.

3) The firmers are longer and I think need or benefit from the added strength of having all of their steel present and accounted for. Given their length and their use in deeper mortices, they are more apt to be bent.

4) History. My firmer chisels are probably the oldest chisels I own. The D.R. Barton was hand forged and dates back to the mid to later 1800's, the Witherby is likely from the same period or a bit later 1800's, and the other is a PS&W (later to become Pexto) is Late 1800's early 1900. These would not be good candidates for me to try my skill at tapering. I'll save that for less sought after tool varieties. 

Alba, thanks. I put a bit of thought into them and I am happy that they are proving to be as comfortable as I wanted them to be. It is funny though how I had gotten used to the feel of the old handles. Even though they didn't feel great, I had gotten used to them, so even though the new ones are much more comfortable, they feel a little foreign still. I'll have to work on a few chiseling projects to become re-acquainted with them.


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## woodspark (May 8, 2010)

swirt said:


> *New Chisel Handles*
> 
> So after a bit of practice and getting use to my Bungee Lathe, I finally completed my goal to get get some good handles on my old socket chisels. I patterned the handle off of the handle that is on my Witherby firmer chisel (third from the top)
> 
> ...


Those look GOOD man! I like the fact that the handles are not identical, gives each chisel his/her own identity! Aren't socket chisels just beautiful, I love them. Old chisels are the best, I do not own a single modern/plastic handle chisel and I have quite a collection. A few without handles…one day I will get the time…


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## swirt (Apr 6, 2010)

swirt said:


> *New Chisel Handles*
> 
> So after a bit of practice and getting use to my Bungee Lathe, I finally completed my goal to get get some good handles on my old socket chisels. I patterned the handle off of the handle that is on my Witherby firmer chisel (third from the top)
> 
> ...


Thanks Div. I like socket chisels and now I really like being able to re-handle them. I have one really old butt chisel that has a tang with a broken handle. I will re-handle that sometime soon, but any future chisel purchases will be the socket variety. I have a couple big timber framing chisels that need new handles, but I will wait on those until I can get some hickory or hornbeam and do it properly.

I have 4 plastic handled chisels (3 stanleys and a craftsman) from the days before I knew better. Sometimes I see them and think, I ought to just sell those on ebay… but then I remind myself that everyone needs some beaters to use in adverse conditions or when dealing with dirty wood


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

swirt said:


> *New Chisel Handles*
> 
> So after a bit of practice and getting use to my Bungee Lathe, I finally completed my goal to get get some good handles on my old socket chisels. I patterned the handle off of the handle that is on my Witherby firmer chisel (third from the top)
> 
> ...


Nice job and gives me some things to think about. I just got some mid-1800's socket chisels with one original handle but I don't like it-too short.


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## swirt (Apr 6, 2010)

*Making new chisel handles*

A week or so back I posted the end results of my venture into making new chisel handles for my old socket chisels here. With the promise that I would show the method I used. So here is the method I used in making new socket chisel handles with octagonal flats.

I made a template to mark out the lengths I needed. I found it easier to get repeatability with a flat template than by holding the model handle up to the blank on the lathe.









I then use calipers and a pencil to determine the diameters and depth of the socket needs a matching tenon.








Use the pencil eraser end, not the pointy end to determine the depth.









I used a card scarper to cut four flats which, on a circle, comes real close to approximating an octagon … more comfortable than an octagon too.









Once the flats were cut, I put it back on the lathe to sand, burnish and finish with shellac.

After cutting off the nubs on each end (is there a turning word for the end pieces that go to scrap on the end of a spindle?) with a flush cut saw, I use a file to fine tune the fit of the tenon into the socket.









Wipe sweat from brow, repeat until all handles are done.

More details and tips can be found in the source: Making chisel handles


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## docholladay (Jan 9, 2010)

swirt said:


> *Making new chisel handles*
> 
> A week or so back I posted the end results of my venture into making new chisel handles for my old socket chisels here. With the promise that I would show the method I used. So here is the method I used in making new socket chisel handles with octagonal flats.
> 
> ...


Swirt,

I used almost that same exact method in making a screwdriver handle a while back.

Screwdriver

It is an effective way to make a handle that 1) will not roll of of the workbench and 2) is easy to get a grip on. The main difference in my method is that I use a powered lathe.

One question, have you considered adding a ferrule to the end of the handles to prevent mushrooming and or splitting from hitting them with a mallet? It is prett easy to do.

Doc


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## swirt (Apr 6, 2010)

swirt said:


> *Making new chisel handles*
> 
> A week or so back I posted the end results of my venture into making new chisel handles for my old socket chisels here. With the promise that I would show the method I used. So here is the method I used in making new socket chisel handles with octagonal flats.
> 
> ...


I have considered the ferule. I am leaving them off for now because more often than not (at least for many of my chisels) I am using them by hand and I don't like the way the ferules always seem to be there digging into my hand. I think if any of them need it, it is my big 1-1/2" firmer chisel which is a bit of a crossover between a firmer and a timberframing chisel. I do use it to pare with but there are times when it might need to take more of a beating. I plan to make another handle for it with a ferule. That's kind of the beauty of the socket handle, it is super easy to exchange handles.

I'd love to find a source of metal caps that could smoothly cover the end of the handle and still feel good in your hand. Similar in style to the Stanley Everlasting chisel.









I have not found anything suitable for it. I've looked at nail on furniture feet but none of them are the right size or heft.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

swirt said:


> *Making new chisel handles*
> 
> A week or so back I posted the end results of my venture into making new chisel handles for my old socket chisels here. With the promise that I would show the method I used. So here is the method I used in making new socket chisel handles with octagonal flats.
> 
> ...


Thank you for sharing.
I love that lathe of yours, and to see how you are getting perfect results is a pleasure.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

swirt said:


> *Making new chisel handles*
> 
> A week or so back I posted the end results of my venture into making new chisel handles for my old socket chisels here. With the promise that I would show the method I used. So here is the method I used in making new socket chisel handles with octagonal flats.
> 
> ...


you realy seems to have cought the idea behind a lathe…LOL
and coming well after it , thank´s for sharing Steve

take care
Dennis


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## swirt (Apr 6, 2010)

swirt said:


> *Making new chisel handles*
> 
> A week or so back I posted the end results of my venture into making new chisel handles for my old socket chisels here. With the promise that I would show the method I used. So here is the method I used in making new socket chisel handles with octagonal flats.
> 
> ...


Thank you both for your kind words. I do enjoy using my simple lathe. It is a bit of fun. Still a long way from getting perfect results, but the results are functional and please me. The funny part is, I can tell when I have been using it too much…my leg starts to hurt. BUT it is not the leg that runs the lathe that hurts, it is the leg that holds me up while the other leg is running the lathe. Apparently holding me up is a lot of work.


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

swirt said:


> *Making new chisel handles*
> 
> A week or so back I posted the end results of my venture into making new chisel handles for my old socket chisels here. With the promise that I would show the method I used. So here is the method I used in making new socket chisel handles with octagonal flats.
> 
> ...


well handtool work isn´t a execise and hard work I think it was Cosmo 
that said its a lifestile change….LOL

Dennis


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## swirt (Apr 6, 2010)

*CHEAP spokeshave tune-up*

Source: Tuning up a cheap spokeshave (in case you know already that you want the longer more detailed version)
As many of you know, I prefer OLD tools. I rarely buy new and I am a firm believer in "you get what you pay for." None of that has changed.  








I have kept my eyes open for a round bottom spokeshave for over a year. Preferably a Stanley 151R, that's the one with the gull-wing handles and the two adjuster nuts. I run across the flat soled versions quite regularly (the 151M) but I rarely see the round bottom version. Lots of times the ones on eBay are impossible to tell which is which because of bad photos and bad descriptions. For the most part I am in no big rush, so I will wait it out…. but there are a couple things I want to build where having one would be helpful. My intention is to still find an OLD Stanley, but in the mean time, I picked up a $5 imitation at HF under the "Central Forge" brand name (the one and only time I have been in HF… yes I still feel dirty from the experience).

For $5 I got a round bottom spokeshave that is a knock-off of the Stanley 151R. That $5 got me a spokeshave that was absolutely un-useable in its current condition, and I am not saying that just because the blade was dull. It had more serious problems than that.

*What was wrong with it?*
1) Poorly placed adjustment slots made the adjuster nuts un-moveable









2) Non-flat bed for seating the blade 









3) Blunt cap iron allowed no wood to pass through the mouth









4) Dull blade - rough machining









*Tools needed for the mod:* 
a) bench grinder









b) file









c) sharpening system (I used sandpaper on glass)

However, with less than 90 minutes put into modifications, I had it up and running as a very usable spokeshave. Here it is making some curves in black cherry. No chatter, smooth finish left behind.









I believe I got what I paid for, I got $5 worth of raw materials. With a bit of sweat equity invested I ended up with a decent spokeshave for someone that does not use a round bottom spokeshave that often. I believe HF flat bottom spokeshave would have the exact same issues, and they would be solved in exactly the same way.


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## davidmicraig (Nov 21, 2009)

swirt said:


> *CHEAP spokeshave tune-up*
> 
> Source: Tuning up a cheap spokeshave (in case you know already that you want the longer more detailed version)
> As many of you know, I prefer OLD tools. I rarely buy new and I am a firm believer in "you get what you pay for." None of that has changed.
> ...


Thanks for posting swirt. I have both versions of the Central Forge spokeshaves. I have been keeping an eye out on ebay, but the prices were getting out of hand. I agree with your observations about the iron. It seems like a pretty hard blade, worth the five dollar investment, but there will definitely be a time investment in flattening and sharpening. I did some of the filing but did not even notice the blunt cap iron compared to the rounded one. I definitely will invest in the process now that I have something so well documented to use.

David


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## swirt (Apr 6, 2010)

swirt said:


> *CHEAP spokeshave tune-up*
> 
> Source: Tuning up a cheap spokeshave (in case you know already that you want the longer more detailed version)
> As many of you know, I prefer OLD tools. I rarely buy new and I am a firm believer in "you get what you pay for." None of that has changed.
> ...


Thanks David, Use the Charlesworth ruler trick to save a lot of time flattening the back of the iron. That easily shaved an hour off my time investment.


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## docholladay (Jan 9, 2010)

swirt said:


> *CHEAP spokeshave tune-up*
> 
> Source: Tuning up a cheap spokeshave (in case you know already that you want the longer more detailed version)
> As many of you know, I prefer OLD tools. I rarely buy new and I am a firm believer in "you get what you pay for." None of that has changed.
> ...


Swirt,

I purchased that exact same spoke shave from HF as well as the flat bottom. Mine do have the exact same problems you describe. I just haven't take the time to work on them enough to tune them up. Thanks for posting. I now have hope that I can at least make them work respectably.

Thanks,

Doc


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## racerglen (Oct 15, 2010)

swirt said:


> *CHEAP spokeshave tune-up*
> 
> Source: Tuning up a cheap spokeshave (in case you know already that you want the longer more detailed version)
> As many of you know, I prefer OLD tools. I rarely buy new and I am a firm believer in "you get what you pay for." None of that has changed.
> ...


Nice work, and a good rescue.
I've had similar issues with the spokeshaves, including a Kunz that had so much paint globbed
into the area where the cap should seat that it couldn't !
It hung on a peg for several years until I got frustrated, did some reading and looked closer. 
What a world of difference with proper seating ! It also required a fair bit of reworking on the underside of the cap as well..

;-)


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## steliart (Jan 15, 2011)

swirt said:


> *CHEAP spokeshave tune-up*
> 
> Source: Tuning up a cheap spokeshave (in case you know already that you want the longer more detailed version)
> As many of you know, I prefer OLD tools. I rarely buy new and I am a firm believer in "you get what you pay for." None of that has changed.
> ...


Hey Swirt
Thanks on the post. Very well documented. I may take up with your advice and expertise on spokeshavers someday.
Thanks
Steli


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## robertb574 (Jan 12, 2011)

swirt said:


> *CHEAP spokeshave tune-up*
> 
> Source: Tuning up a cheap spokeshave (in case you know already that you want the longer more detailed version)
> As many of you know, I prefer OLD tools. I rarely buy new and I am a firm believer in "you get what you pay for." None of that has changed.
> ...


Very good - Thanks. Info I need as I bought round and flat HF spokeshaves. I had flatten the bed and sharpened the blade to no avail. I look forward to trying the other fixes.


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## swirt (Apr 6, 2010)

swirt said:


> *CHEAP spokeshave tune-up*
> 
> Source: Tuning up a cheap spokeshave (in case you know already that you want the longer more detailed version)
> As many of you know, I prefer OLD tools. I rarely buy new and I am a firm believer in "you get what you pay for." None of that has changed.
> ...


Thanks Racer Glen, I keep meaning to pick up a Kunz (to look at not to own) just to see if they are more like an old Stanley or more like this one from Central Forge (HF). My bet is, just from things I have heard, that they are more like this Harbor Freight, but just cost 5x more.

Steli, don't go mistaking me for someone that has expertise on spokeshaves. I use them once in a while, but I would consider myself pretty much an amateur with them as well as many other tools. What I am good at is reading everything I can find on a topic and then putting all the pieces together. I should point out that for the roughly 90 minutes I put into getting this spokeshave working, I probably put in 5 hours or more just researching all the possible issues and outcomes. 1/3 of the reason I blog this stuff is so I have it all documented for myself for the next time I have to tune one up. 1/3 is to share it with everyone else. The remaining 1/3 is to pass the info onto my son when he is older. I realize his interest in woodworking may go dormant for his teenage and 20s and may not re-appear until after I'm gone.

Robert, Doc, David and anyone else with one of these, please report back here when you get them working. You may run into other issues than I did.


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## racerglen (Oct 15, 2010)

swirt said:


> *CHEAP spokeshave tune-up*
> 
> Source: Tuning up a cheap spokeshave (in case you know already that you want the longer more detailed version)
> As many of you know, I prefer OLD tools. I rarely buy new and I am a firm believer in "you get what you pay for." None of that has changed.
> ...


Swert, 
The worst I've found in a tool in the "modern" era is a Footprint plane, a variation on the tiny block planes that I picked up in a card/blister pack from Home Dump, er Depot.. While they do have some good stuff, it wasn't till I tried to use it, and I always make that out of package, one swipe, what have I got, type thing..then go from there..
Hummmm..that wasn't anywhere near what it should have been, even with a dull factory blade.. started with the Chinese grinding marks on the sole, the misaligned pin that registers the blade followed, the "chip breaker" at 90 degrees, the sole actualy several degrees off that..BUT hey..I'm a tool guy..I can make it WORK !
WRONG! And now any warantee, exchange is void..
Funny how many of these things collect in my hall of shame..(mine AND theirs…)
The spokeshave was a piece of cake in comparison.. Hell, oops, heck, I've revitalized some stuff that had been 
wrecked by a factory in the early 1900's..
However; good advice IMHO is to get a good look at what you're buying first..even if it is in a blister pack..
Canada's Princess auto and Busy Bee both cary H/F grade stuff, but at least there you can LOOK before you buy..
(except on line Eh.. ;-)


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

swirt said:


> *CHEAP spokeshave tune-up*
> 
> Source: Tuning up a cheap spokeshave (in case you know already that you want the longer more detailed version)
> As many of you know, I prefer OLD tools. I rarely buy new and I am a firm believer in "you get what you pay for." None of that has changed.
> ...


great blog Swirt 
thank´s for sharing
I Like your haevy powered grinder 

Dennis


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## swirt (Apr 6, 2010)

swirt said:


> *CHEAP spokeshave tune-up*
> 
> Source: Tuning up a cheap spokeshave (in case you know already that you want the longer more detailed version)
> As many of you know, I prefer OLD tools. I rarely buy new and I am a firm believer in "you get what you pay for." None of that has changed.
> ...


Glen that is a tough decision sometimes. Do you re-hab it or return it? As you say, if you try to re-hab it and it still doesn't work, then you can't return it. I usually avoid these kinds of tools. For $5 I pretty much knew what I was getting. The funny thing is that I had hoped if all else failed I could make use of the cap iron screw since the one on my old Stanley is a makeshift wing-nut. No luck there. The Central Forge is not the same size or thread count. 

Dennis, my grinder power is good for a while, when it slows down I just give him a cookie and tell him to go faster.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

swirt said:


> *CHEAP spokeshave tune-up*
> 
> Source: Tuning up a cheap spokeshave (in case you know already that you want the longer more detailed version)
> As many of you know, I prefer OLD tools. I rarely buy new and I am a firm believer in "you get what you pay for." None of that has changed.
> ...


Cool Swirt,
I especially love your 1/8 HP grinder.
I think it's a wonderful idea to see how we can turn cheap tools into good tools, since I think you have a point.
It's not always the tool that are wrong, it's simply the attention to finish that makes it mailfunction.
Thank you,
best thoughts also to the 1/8, tell him thank you,
Mads


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## swirt (Apr 6, 2010)

swirt said:


> *CHEAP spokeshave tune-up*
> 
> Source: Tuning up a cheap spokeshave (in case you know already that you want the longer more detailed version)
> As many of you know, I prefer OLD tools. I rarely buy new and I am a firm believer in "you get what you pay for." None of that has changed.
> ...


Thanks Mafe, I can't remember who said it, but it is just a piece of metal that holds another piece of metal. Most things can be made right with a little bit of time and effort.

That hand grinder (the actual grinder, not its power supply) is one of the best things I ever bought. Picked it up at junk shop for $11 and it is a lot of fun to use and I can use it safely with my son. It is not as fast as my electric one, but it is safer on the tools and for my son and I. Plus I can tell him to eat his vegetables so he can get to be a 1/7th HP … he says he wants to be 1/9th …. okay so his understanding of fractions needs a little work.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

swirt said:


> *CHEAP spokeshave tune-up*
> 
> Source: Tuning up a cheap spokeshave (in case you know already that you want the longer more detailed version)
> As many of you know, I prefer OLD tools. I rarely buy new and I am a firm believer in "you get what you pay for." None of that has changed.
> ...


I smile all over the face.
Keep up that spirit,
best thoughts from my heart,
Mads


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

swirt said:


> *CHEAP spokeshave tune-up*
> 
> Source: Tuning up a cheap spokeshave (in case you know already that you want the longer more detailed version)
> As many of you know, I prefer OLD tools. I rarely buy new and I am a firm believer in "you get what you pay for." None of that has changed.
> ...


Swirt GREAT TIP, I have been needing to tune mine. There are 3 things you showed the I didn't even consider as a problem. Oh I do love the 1/8 horse powered motor cover.


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## swirt (Apr 6, 2010)

swirt said:


> *CHEAP spokeshave tune-up*
> 
> Source: Tuning up a cheap spokeshave (in case you know already that you want the longer more detailed version)
> As many of you know, I prefer OLD tools. I rarely buy new and I am a firm believer in "you get what you pay for." None of that has changed.
> ...


Thanks Superdav. Hope you can get your spokeshave running better.

Motor cover LOL My wife buys him more tool shirts than she buys me tools. I keep telling her that I won't outgrow the tools, but he outgrows the shirts in no time flat.


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## timbit2006 (Jan 6, 2012)

swirt said:


> *CHEAP spokeshave tune-up*
> 
> Source: Tuning up a cheap spokeshave (in case you know already that you want the longer more detailed version)
> As many of you know, I prefer OLD tools. I rarely buy new and I am a firm believer in "you get what you pay for." None of that has changed.
> ...


I'll have to try this sometime. I've been looking for a used spokeshave but have yet to find one, this is after one year of checking all the classifieds daily.
Princess Auto has a set of two "Record" spokeshaves. One curved, the other flat. If I remember right, it's ~20 dollars, and closer to me than a Harbor Freight which is US only.


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## swirt (Apr 6, 2010)

swirt said:


> *CHEAP spokeshave tune-up*
> 
> Source: Tuning up a cheap spokeshave (in case you know already that you want the longer more detailed version)
> As many of you know, I prefer OLD tools. I rarely buy new and I am a firm believer in "you get what you pay for." None of that has changed.
> ...


I'm not certain, but I have a feeling that the Record brand would be somewhat better in quality than the Harbor Freight versions. No facts to act on, just a hunch. Good luck with them if you go that route.


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## timbit2006 (Jan 6, 2012)

swirt said:


> *CHEAP spokeshave tune-up*
> 
> Source: Tuning up a cheap spokeshave (in case you know already that you want the longer more detailed version)
> As many of you know, I prefer OLD tools. I rarely buy new and I am a firm believer in "you get what you pay for." None of that has changed.
> ...


I checked the Princess Auto website and they didn't have it. They did have a concave/convex spokeshave set, but I swear I saw a Record spokeshave.
Are there any companies similar to Harbor Freight? The HF Spokeshave is store only and since I'm in Canada there's no HF stores.


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## racerglen (Oct 15, 2010)

swirt said:


> *CHEAP spokeshave tune-up*
> 
> Source: Tuning up a cheap spokeshave (in case you know already that you want the longer more detailed version)
> As many of you know, I prefer OLD tools. I rarely buy new and I am a firm believer in "you get what you pay for." None of that has changed.
> ...


Check out Busy Bee Tools, they're based in Ontario, much similar product lines.


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## timbit2006 (Jan 6, 2012)

swirt said:


> *CHEAP spokeshave tune-up*
> 
> Source: Tuning up a cheap spokeshave (in case you know already that you want the longer more detailed version)
> As many of you know, I prefer OLD tools. I rarely buy new and I am a firm believer in "you get what you pay for." None of that has changed.
> ...


Do you find any benefits of having the adjusting nuts? The Power Fist brand spoke shaves are on sale for 15 dollars for the set but they do not have adjusting nuts. Their cap is angled though and the casting seems to be a lot better than the HF one you described.


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## swirt (Apr 6, 2010)

swirt said:


> *CHEAP spokeshave tune-up*
> 
> Source: Tuning up a cheap spokeshave (in case you know already that you want the longer more detailed version)
> As many of you know, I prefer OLD tools. I rarely buy new and I am a firm believer in "you get what you pay for." None of that has changed.
> ...


I'm afraid I don't know much about what's available in Canada as far as inexpensive spokeshaves.

I like the adjuster nuts as it does allow fairly rapid adjustment. The dual adjusters allow for skewing the blade which I do so that I can take a large shaving on the left and a finer shaving on the right. This way I can adjust my depth just by where on the knife I am taking the shaving.

I am not sure if you can do that with the brand you mention.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

swirt said:


> *CHEAP spokeshave tune-up*
> 
> Source: Tuning up a cheap spokeshave (in case you know already that you want the longer more detailed version)
> As many of you know, I prefer OLD tools. I rarely buy new and I am a firm believer in "you get what you pay for." None of that has changed.
> ...


I no longer see spokeshaves on HF's web site.


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## swirt (Apr 6, 2010)

swirt said:


> *CHEAP spokeshave tune-up*
> 
> Source: Tuning up a cheap spokeshave (in case you know already that you want the longer more detailed version)
> As many of you know, I prefer OLD tools. I rarely buy new and I am a firm believer in "you get what you pay for." None of that has changed.
> ...


That is a shame. Check Amazon, they seem to have a variety of them


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

swirt said:


> *CHEAP spokeshave tune-up*
> 
> Source: Tuning up a cheap spokeshave (in case you know already that you want the longer more detailed version)
> As many of you know, I prefer OLD tools. I rarely buy new and I am a firm believer in "you get what you pay for." None of that has changed.
> ...


There's a $9 spokeshave on Amazon with free shipping which might be similar. It's green abnd yellow, but seems to have a different shape of lever cap.

Also, some reviewer's describe it as 3/4 sized.

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E1INQJO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1THAZDOWP300U


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