# Best glue to use for cutting boards



## Sawdustmaker

I was looking through some of the wood scraps in my storage bin and heard a sound . I couldn't make it out so I turned off the radio and listened. "If you build it, they will cut on it" That's right some cutting boards are in that bin, I just have to make them. I've seen some real works of art on this site and I'm wandering what kind of glue is best for cutting boards. Due to the function they perform, it seems like they can come in contact with water on a regular basis and I don't want to make something that looks great but self destructs when someone leaves in in a sink with hot water for a couple hours.


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## USCJeff

I used Tightbond III on mine. I think any glue designated as "exterior" should work, though.


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## rikkor

Titebond III. Their website says it is food safe, and it is waterproof.


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## Splinters

I use Titebond III on my boards


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## MsDebbieP

hahaa if you build it….. 
haha


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## relic

Titebond III here as well.


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## bobdurnell

I'm a fan of that Gorrila glue stuff. Mainly bacause of the open time, having only to spread the glue on one surface, and water on the other, and its real easy to sand off after it has dried. I have used Titebond III also. I have used the old standby Weldwood Plastic Resin. Practically all of the adhesives will work, however when in doubt I use good ol West Systems Epoxy. I kinda stay away from that two part Resorcinal stuff though. Most of my clamps have a deep red color on them since. Hope this helps.


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## bbrooks

Same here, Titebond III is what I use not only for cutting boards but all my woodworking projects.


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## CharlesNeil

i agree across the board, titebond III, I like if its small and i have enough time, for bigger i like the polyurethane,for the open time


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## Sawdustmaker

Well, it sounds like I need to go down to Wood Craft and pick up some Titebond III. I'll have to put on my isle blinders and head straight for the glue section. Maybe I can get out of there without having to drop $60.00 at the cash register…....and that's on a good day. Thanks for the wisdom.


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## Greg3G

I've build a number of cutting boards using both Titebond III and Ployurethane (gorrilla) glue. I have found that the Poly glue *will not* hold up over time. I have had two boards that have failed due to the glue. One of the magazines recently conducted stregth tests on various types of glue and the Poly glue came out as the weakest of all the glues. I now use Titebond III on all of my boards.


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## gad5264

TB III


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## matter

TB3 again. Urethane doesn't hold up. You are better off using just about any PVA glues. I warranty my boards for life. Never replaced one with PVA but all the poly's have been re-done.

I always use a Watco butcher's block finish too- seems to hold up well.

It was a short learning curve, but a painful one.


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## degoose

Titebond II I haven't tried the III yet


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## BlankMan

Wow, glad this popped to the top. I'm planning on making some end grain cutting boards and I researched the various glues and chose Titebond III because it had a Type 1 rating. I wasn't sure if it was rated safe for food so I was going to look into that but now I don't have to.

I jumped on the Gorilla Glue bandwagon too when it first came out but have since fallen off. Get it on your hands and they're brown for days, or on anything else. Wearing gloves my hands sweat and they're dripping by the time I take the gloves off. And, last but not least, it's not that great. I made a bird feeder a bunch of years back with it because it was so good. Even sealed it with a marine rated urethane. The glue joints eventually failed. No advantage to it. I'm going to try Titebond III on the next one.


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## GaryC

TB3 The only way to go


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## D1st

I like TB3 best, but I do use gorilla glue as well. Someone purchase some gorilla glue for one of their projects I made and had lots left to use on other projects. It seems to spread a long way. Good luck.


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## ghazard

TBII here. In regards to self destructing if left in hot water for a couple of hours…not sure any board will stand up to that soak. I don't think its really a glue issue but more an issue of the wood soaking it up, releasing it and moving all over/splitting.

On the board I use at home, there is a small check on one end that opens up when it is dry and closes when we wash it. It was freaking me out at first because I would see it…and then go back later and I couldn't find any trace of it.

Good luck…can't wait to see the results!

Greg


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## ghazard

HA!!! ...I didn't even see the number of days ago this was posted. Oh well….don't I feel like a dufus…

"Good luck on those boards you probably already built 2 and half years ago"....Dooh!


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## slysteve

I just delivered an end-grain cherry wood butcher block to my sister in Oxford UK which I glued up with Tightbond II. On the third day of my visit she hosted a huge party at which several of her women friends helped out in the kitchen. One of them thought the butcher block at 24×36 would make the prefect trivet for the huge soup pot simmering on the stove. Three hours later as I helped with clean up I lifted the pot to return it to the kitchen from the buffet and found my gift beneath it. I was horrified! Outlined on the block in steam sweat beads was the shape of the ten gallon pot which had gone from boiling to room temperature on my cherry block. I wiped it off and after close inspection could find no damage whatsoever. Each day for several days I again inspected it. It was good as new. I would have used Tightbond III had I the time before my trip, but went with II because it cured faster and in the past had worked so well. I will likely go with III on my next block but I am satisfied that II passed the hot-pot steam test. By the way, I finished the block 1 1/2" thick block with two coats of salad bowl varnish from Rockleer cut about 30% with mineral spirits and a top coat of food safe mineral oil, a small bottle of which I left behind for future monthly dressings.


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## PurpLev

I am just making one myself, and am using Gorilla Wood glue. it's marked water resistant , and food safe approved.


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## Tearen

I currently use TBII. As mentioned above, it is approved by the FDA for food applications. I use that as a selling point and keep a copy of the FDA document with me during the shows I attend. I just tell everyone…. "Yep, buy that boards at walmart that is made in China. Heck, if they are willing to put toxic paint on kids toy, I can only imagine what is in the glue they used!"


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## stevef22

I didnt know Gorilla Wood glue is food safe. Thank you


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## lumberdustjohn

I use both II and III.
Tried to get more assemble time.
It didn't make much difference to me they were both too fast for my eyes.


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## milehighwoodworker

Titebond II is definitely my glue of choice for most projects (great for veneering). Just a note, PLEASE don't buy at Rockler or Woodcraft! Go to your local ACE or Home Depot and pay $5 less per gallon!


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## KnifeLife

Gorilla has a new FDA approved white wood glue that works great it got me away from TBIII after many many years.


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## Bertha

Another vote for Titebond III here.


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## mtkate

Again, Tightbond III.


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## AZMac

Tightbond III 
AZMac


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## Willie1031

That's a good question because I just joined and I'm about to start a cutting board. I am also wondering what I can use to put over it so the knives don't beat it up too bad.


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## Elmar

Here is a board I just made with the Gorilla wood glue, obviously I won't know how it holds up for a while I hope! This was made with Red Oak, Maple, Zebra and Cocobola


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## Elmar

I have one additional question since I am pretty new at this. Do most of you join using biscuits? How about when you are using thin strips to you just cut and join them? How do most of you square up the surfaces? Just a table saw or do you use a joiner to true the edge?

Thanks!


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## brtech

I dont use biscuits, but keeping the edges aligned is a pain, and unless you have a thickness sander, you need a lot of sanding work to get the joints smooth and flat. I'm gonna try dowels the next time I make one, but you have to plan the locations carefully if you use them on the first glue up for the complex two cut boards.

Table saw works fine for me for the edges. I might use the jointer on the first edge of a rough stock board, but then it's planer and TS only.


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## Elmar

Thanks, I have a good TS and fence system so hopefully the next one will be easier to do


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## Tokolosi

Tightbond II. I dont use biscuits. Just surface glue the strips. If you are making a endgrain cutting board you are glueing to sidegrain and none of mine has failed yet.


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## bbjjj

I started using the Titebond III when it first came available mostly for cutting boards but also in some outdoor applications. 
I gave a couple of cutting boards to a nephew for a wedding gift and about 6-8 months later I was invited for dinner. Before dinner we were in the kitchen and the larger of the two boards (20" X 24" X 1 1/2") that I had given them was in use and looked great. I inquired about the smaller one (9" X 14" X 5/8") that was it's companion and they opened the dishwasher and there it was. Yes, they had been washing it in the dishwasher and it looked terrible, really dry and the grain had raised horribly, but it had not De-laminated. So Titebond III is the only wood glue that I use.
On the thinner boards I put a strip across the ends using biscuits









to help in keeping them from warping. I do not use biscuits on the rest of the board.


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## RetiredCoastie

I've used TITEBONDIII but in my recent build I needed a glue with a longer open time and I found TITEBOND II EXTEND to work very well. It's FDA approved but it isn't listed as FDA approved on the bottle or their website but I called their company and was told it is FDA approved.


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## USMC6531

I have used Titebond III for my boards just because that is what I have in the shop, but Titebond II is also a good choice and will save a few buck. Both are approved for indirect food contact.


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## Ed_Pirnik

Ditto: Titebond III for all my cutting boards and humidors as well. I've never had a failure.


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## bob101

gorilla glue is my choice and my boards get used and rinsed almost daily, and have never failled at the joints.


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## yank

TBIII is my choice also. I have made approximately 50 cutting boards and not one has failed at a glue joint. I use only mineral oil on my boards, two generous coats and let them soak in. Wipe off any excess after two days and they are ready, after I put on the rubber bumpers for feet. 
Willie; I only make end grain cutting boards, I have used mine for 3 years and the knife marks are almost non-existant. Not so with edge grain cutting boards like the ones sold in stores from foreign countries, nor do they hold up nearly as long. 
I also tell those that I give or sell my boards to, too not put in dw, no raw meat, and after use, clean with water or soap and water, dry board well, let air dry overnight, and then apply a light coat of mineral oil, and allow to soak in. .

I am also late in posting to this post, but hope it will get seen.


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## NiteWalker

I usually use TBIII, but recently got a hold of a bottle of elmer's wood glue max. Elmer's markets it as a direct competitor as it has the same water proof and longer open time characteristics. So far so good. I like it a lot. It seems to be less runny than TBIII.


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## Reaper621

I always use Titebond III, end of story. It has a hold that I find scary. Everything I build, I test, and even on hard scrap like oak, the wood breaks before the glue bond.

Your cutting board looks beautiful. Great job.

I don't biscuit anything anymore. I have three methods of choice, depending on a) who will see it, b) function of the piece, and c) what it's made of. First, you have just brute force - clamp that thing together, as tight as you can, and use face clamps to draw it in. This works quite well with wood that isn't warped, and is preferable on some projects. I try to do this on my cutting boards, but I usually use method two. Second, you can try dowel rods. My father has a dowel jig, and it works so amazingly well… when you remember to tighten the screws. Again, this is preferable if someone will see/use both sides, but beware - I once planed through to my dowel hole because I forgot how deep I was. My wife still adores her cutting board, but it pisses me off that I messed it up. Either of these methods is just fine, just prepare for a bit of sanding regardless of your method.

Third is unfeasible for cutting boards, but I like my pocket hole screws a lot, and they work nice. Couple face clamps, couple bar clamps, TBIII, and you've got a fortress. See my desk project - the entire top was fabricated in this fashion.


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## Elmar

Here is my latest, all food safe wood with Titebond III


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## Reaper621

What is the multi colored one split by the middle piece?

I love these boards, it's always amazing how well scrap wood looks when you throw it together.


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## degoose

Add one more lover of TB III and for any Aussie readers…get it from Masters Hardware… half the price of elsewhere.


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## JonathanG

I also use Titebond III on all my boards. Not only is it food safe and tolerant of water, it is easier on knives than some other glues out there, especially non-PVA glues that are much harder once dried/cured. They can wreak havoc on a knife's sharp edge, which will lead to more frequent sharpening. I think this fact unfortunately tends to be overlooked quite a bit.


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## JonH

Also, download the cutting board designer program. Its a real easy little program that shows you the design you will end up with when you enter your varieties of wood, and size of each piece, etc. It works great.

Good Luck!

Here's the link to the guy on lumberjocks who got me going on CB Designer.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/11372


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## MonteCristo

I suspect that many of the "artwork" cutting boards never see a knife or a sink. They likely are deemed too beautiful to deface. But if they do get wet on occasion, I would say Titebond III is good enough unless you leave them to soak, in which case epoxy is likely the better choice.

Most of the fancy cutting boards have joints that involve one or both surfaces being end grain, and we know that's not good. In some cases I would bet that repeated exposure to water would cause a joint failure.


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## dat

I am surprised to hear that the gorilla glue doesn't hold up over time. I used it to repair some deck furniture that was falling a part (plough and hearth…) and it has held together beautifully, outside, through winter.

That said, still going to take the advice here and use TB3 for my first cutting board!


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## bannerpond1

Titebond III. Hopefully you will be making end grain boards. There are several tutorials. I've made dozens of them and enjoy the design process. I have witnessed professionals say you can NOT plane end grain, but it's not true. On my second glue-up, when you roll the pieces 90 degrees to get the end grain up, I put a sacrificial board on the two narrow ends. When you plane the board, you take only 1/32 or less. The sacrificial boards act as a backer for the end grain and you get ZERO split out. Then I run them through a drum sander over and over and finish with a ROS to 150 grit. I use tung oil and get great results. It really brings out the color of both cherry and maple. I mix woods to make a patchwork design. Who knew maple could have so many colors?


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## pctechmgr

I too use TBIII and would not use anything else as my last few boards stood up over time of heavy use with TBIII

Question though. I'm planning on making an end grain cutting board for an entire kitchen island. 40"x60". I'm worried about cracking long term. It will be 1-1/4" thick throughout. I'll be making 12 separate boards and then either 1) glue them all edge to edge or, 2) use a small separator board between each of them. Also thinking a thin piece of ply to mount all of them or melamine may be a good idea. Again, trying to ensure that it will never crack. Will also be using a beeswax combo finish to keep the moisture out from daily use and refreshed when needed.

Thoughts?


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## JimRochester

Always have used TB II or III and never had a problem with them holding up. Any board will disintegrate if left in hot water for hours. You want to destroy a board? Put it in the dishwasher. I always tell my customers to use mild soap and warm water and it will last for years. Even using them as hot plates hasn't caused a problem like hot water does.


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## RicNZ

What is the gap filling like for tite bond 3? I have some off cuts of new zealand rimu that id like to turn onto a butchers block. The blocks are a bit out of square


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## JimRochester

TB's have good gap filling ability but you don't want to use bad wood and try to fix it with glue and clamps. Clean it up first on the planer, jointer, table saw. If it is pretty close you should be fine. Don't look to close nickel size gaps. Maybe a cc at most is my recommendation.


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## cathode

> I currently use TBII. As mentioned above, it is approved by the FDA for food applications. I use that as a selling point and keep a copy of the FDA document with me during the shows I attend. I just tell everyone…. "Yep, buy that boards at walmart that is made in China. Heck, if they are willing to put toxic paint on kids toy, I can only imagine what is in the glue they used!"
> 
> - Dustin Ward (aka Tearen)


The wood itself probably has heavy metals in it because of the pollution over there.


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