# Update - Easiest route to "Scary Sharp City"?



## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

Now that I'm using my chisels more often I'm looking for the easiest (cheapest) way to keep them sharp.

Lots of techniques out there. I just want a simple way to get the job done. Not looking to buy a Tormek or diamond wheels for my slow speed grinder that i never use. I've got a fine and corse stone that came with another set that I bought years ago. I have a 600 grit diamond hone that I use for my skew and carbide turning tools and sheets of sandpaper up to 1200 grit. (not that I can't get more easily enough). I've seen people use 3 grits of wet sandpaper on a piece of glass.

Sharpening is worse than sanding to me but I see how my results have improved since receiving a set of scary sharp swiss chisels which aren't as sharp now that I've been using them. (they're still sharper than my original set though) I had access to a Tormek for a while but no longer but these swiss made ones were sharper than my original set even after using the Tormek. Preferably I'd like to only sharpen them a few times a year and just use a hone to keep them sharp like my turning tools that go back to hair shaving scary sharp after 30 seconds with the hone and maybe some MDF or leather.

Suggestions needed please.


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## rad457 (Jun 15, 2013)

Black Arkansas Oil stone, Chunk of MDF or leather and some green compound? Will get a sharp edge and help keep it sharp, personally I like my Water stones (1000/8000) to get that polished sharp edge and some green compound to touch up? Lots of practice?


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

Thanks.

Seems like oil and water stones are 2 different animals. I seem to be able to get my plane blades sharp enough but these Pfeil swiss chisels seems to be on another level.

I've had this set for a few years that came with a sharpening system.


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## P89DC (Oct 1, 2017)

Tormek is for grinding a new bevel when the chisel is damaged or you want a different bevel angle. I wood use what you have and add a 6000-8000 grit water stone. And I have the Veritas mk II guide system either because I'm weak or precise depending on who you talk to 

Keep your low speed grinder, it's very good for new bevels at 20% the cost of a tormek. Great for sharpening lathe chisels too.


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## jbmaine (Nov 8, 2019)

A variety of wet dry sandpaper, a granite surface plate, and the Veritas mk II is what I use. I don't have anything set up for quick touchups between " real" sharpening's, but I probably should.


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## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

Jim, I've got a worksharp 3000. Had it for a few years now. It does a good job and is very easy to use. cost is about $200 though so your inexpensive note might not fit this criteria.


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## Jared_S (Jul 6, 2018)

1000, 5000 and 12000 shapton water stones. (The grey market ones are very inexpensive)

And any cheap guide


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

As they say, harder steel will hold an edge longer but is more difficult to get a good edge on. Likewise, softer steels are easier to get sharp (and sharper in my experience) but have to be sharpened more often. My cheapest chisels ,that I got from Harbor Freight to be beaters, tend to be my sharpest chisels and actually hold an edge pretty well even though I abuse them more. I don't like to stop and sharpen so my solution to is to buy multiple of sets of them and then sharpen them all at once so you have one long sharpening session rather than having to do it weekly. I have also picked up some other no-name chisels at garage sales. I typically just use the wet/dry sandpaper method for my marathon sharpening sessions and I have actually gotten pretty good at just doing it by feel without a guide which makes it go a lot faster. When you are sharpening 10+ chisels at a time, it gives you lots of practice. Paul Sellers has a pretty good video about sharpening without a guide. I have an MK II but rarely use it because it pretty much doubles how long it takes for me.


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## GaryCK (Apr 7, 2018)

+1 on jbmaine's suggestion for granite surfaces and sandpaper. I have two 12" square granite floor tiles for lower grits and two Woodcraft granite blocks for the higher ones. The sandpaper is stuck down with spray adhesive. I also use the Veritas Mk. II honing guide and a bit of camellia oil on the paper. Touchup between full-on sharpenings is just hitting the finer grits.

I'm finishing up building a set of custom storm doors out of white oak and have a much greater appreciation for how nicely a sharp chisel will shave that wood with just a push of my hand.


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

BTW, if you buy a granite tile, check it pretty carefully. Some of them naturally have small pits that you will definitely feel as you are sharpening. I personally don't like using a spray adhesive to hold down the paper. I always seem to get clumps and bumps under the paper and then you have to clean off the plate when you change the paper. I typically just use a spray bottle and wet both side of the paper so that the water holds it to the granite and frequent squirts also helps float the swarf away. If you use a guide, the guild also helps keep it from moving.


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## BubbaIBA (Nov 23, 2011)

> Now that I m using my chisels more often I m looking for the easiest (cheapest) way to keep them sharp.
> 
> Lots of techniques out there. I just want a simple way to get the job done. Not looking to buy a Tormek or diamond wheels for my slow speed grinder that i never use. I ve got a fine and corse stone that came with another set that I bought years ago. I have a 600 grit diamond hone that I use for my skew and carbide turning tools and sheets of sandpaper up to 1200 grit. (not that I can t get more easily enough). I ve seen people use 3 grits of wet sandpaper on a piece of glass.
> 
> ...


Andybb,

While the Swiss Made (Pfeil) chisels come from the factory kinda sharp they are not "working" sharp from the box. Getting to sharp is simple with just three stones. One to grind, one to set up the edge for the polishing stone (take the grind scratches down and establish a wire edge), and a finishing stone to "chase the wire" and polish the remaining scratches. Some folks like to finish with a strop, some don't, either way works. To do this you need to develop the ability to "see" sharp and to "feel" sharp.

Fingers are very sensitive and once trained can feel very minute differences along the edge. A sharp edge will not reflect light. If an edge feels sharp and looks sharp it is sharp and testing is unnecessary, in fact counter productive because it will begin degrading the edge before it ever touches wood in anger. Feel and look are all that is necessary.

Almost any set of grinding and polishing stones/medium will work but somewhat depending on the steel of the cutter being sharpened. A2 and D2 iron can be slow on Natural stones. Where the differences come in, everything is a trade off between speed, cost, mess, and hassle.

Arkansas stones can be a little slow on A2 and D2 but have little hassle or mess and are cheap. Man made water stones can be very quick but that quickness comes with the cost of mess and hassle. When all factors are taken into account the speed difference between Ark and Man Made water stones is negligible. Synthetic water stones' cost is all over the place from very cheap to kinda expensive. The third option when using stones is JNats. JNats fit kinda in between Ark stones and synthetic stones in speed, mess, and hassle. The cost of JNats range from kinda expensive to hold onto your hat.

Diamond stones are ok for grinding but tend to leave scratches that are difficult to remove and are not very good as polishing stones. Sandpaper I can't address because I've never used it.

The best advise I can give is find a system that fits into your needs, stick with it and set up a sharpening station that stays set up and is close to your work area. Then sharpen at the first sign of the cutter being "not sharp as it was".

ken


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## rad457 (Jun 15, 2013)

https://www.lumberjocks.com/Bertha/blog/111177
Remembered this blog from a while ago, some good info!

Sharpening is another one of dem rabbit holes that can be confusing and frustrating but after you see the light all will be understood !
Nothing beats watching someone with experience demonstrate a method that works, then with some practice finding out for yourself the method that will work for you.
Nothing funnier than handing someone a sharp chisel with the warning, careful it is sharp then watching the blood flow when they touch it with a finger to see for themselves


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## John Smith_inFL (Dec 15, 2017)

Andy - I'm with you on sharpening is worse than sanding.
if I could find a reliable tool sharpener in my area, I would PAY
to have them all brought back to Scary Sharp and "maintain" them
(this time) like they should be.

.

.


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## OSU55 (Dec 14, 2012)

Here is how I do it. I think its a cheap and simple way to get truly sharp and long lasting edges, you may not think so. Sharp edges are one thing, but smooth and sharp last much longer.


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## BubbaIBA (Nov 23, 2011)

> Andy - I m with you on *sharpening is worse than sanding.*
> if I could find a reliable tool sharpener in my area, I would PAY
> to have them all brought back to Scary Sharp and "maintain" them
> (this time) like they should be.
> ...


John,

I can kinda understand if you are one of the folks that put sharpening off until the tool is unusable dull and then puts it in a pile to be sharpened later. When the pile is big and there are many chisels and cutters to sharpen then go at it in a sharpening frenzy. If I worked that way I would hate it as well.

The secret is as posted above: Have a permanent sharpening station set up and ready to go (that means it isn't a storage area) and sharpen at the first sign of dulling. If you do that, keeping all your chisels and cutters sharp only takes a minute or two at a time and it will not be a drudgery. Even better it gives you a short break and time to think about what you are doing…It has saved my bacon more than once.

A photo of my sharpening station:










Oil stones are on the left side, synthetic and JNat water stones on the right. The station is a couple of steps off the left end of the main workbench. Seldom used stones are kept in the overhead cabinet. No chisel or cutter is put away dull.

ken

P.S. Freehand helps because it is faster but is not necessary. Jigs work this way as well.
.

.


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

When I sharpen my good p!anes, I use water stones and a MKII guide. It takes time to set up and get sharp.

However, for my chisels and everyday working, I use a Worksharp 3000. I use diamond disks and a hone with green stuff. It works and is quick.

Some people go to quite extensive lengths to sharpen their tools. It takes time and money. This is great for a lot of people.

Others want a quick, easy and relatively cheap method to sharpen. It may not sharpen to the scary sharp level but will work fine for a lot of people.


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## BurlyBob (Mar 13, 2012)

I got a bunch of granite scraps from a countertop shop. Recently I found that quartz is far better. As it's manmade it has a real flat surface. I'm planning on getting some more if it. I've found wet/dry sandpaper up to 3000 grit at auto body supply shops.


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## Axis39 (Jul 3, 2019)

I have two plastic bins that constitute my current sharpening system.

One has dry stuff, like my Veritas guide (the original one I've had for 25 years or so) or oil stones for rough work, etc. It keeps all the loose stuff in one place. It also has my one diamond stone (400/600) that I will use for flattening backs and cutting new, or straightening out, bevels.

Then, I have one that is my 'wet' box. It has a flat piece of solid surface countertop scrap that is about 8×3 and usually several pieces of wet/dry paper cut to size for the plate. I will use 220, 400, 1000, 2000 and 3000 (but only as coarse as I absolutely have to) to hone an edge.

I don't sharpen as often as I should, but I am working on it. But, I will say, the sharper my tools are, the safer and easier to use they are. I like being able to grab a chisel and gently shave a surface until it is practically burnished. Most of my planes will cut a surface better than sandpaper. That keeps me motivated to sharpen. Sadly, my tools are a lot sharper than many of the other professionals I have worked with over the years. So, don't feel alone in your sharpening woes! LOL

I want to get to the point where I am using some of the finer water stones, and maybe replace some of my steps with diamond stones. But, I gotta say, 3k paper puts a nice finish on a blade!

Anyway, the wet/dry paper is inexpensive to get into and it does a good job.


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## P89DC (Oct 1, 2017)

> A photo of my sharpening station:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I was on my way to all of this kit and space (a dedicated bench) until I watched Paul Sellers. My water stones are a ton of work and a big mess. Now I've simplified to a 1/2hp low speed Rikon grinder on a stand with wheels, a DMT 1000grit equivalent plate and my 20 year old King 8000grit water stone. It's all I need for chisels, planes and turning tools. One of these months when I have a little extra $$ I'll buy a CBN wheel for the grinder but I'm fine with the stock white wheels. If something is really bad I have a multi-use granite surface plate and 200grit sand paper.


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## Phil32 (Aug 31, 2018)

It sounds like many of you have figured out how to sharpen your plane blades and chisels. Now suppose you are a woodcarver and your 40+ gouges are nearly all *curved*. How useful are your flat stones and granite tiles?


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## P89DC (Oct 1, 2017)

> It sounds like many of you have figured out how to sharpen your plane blades and chisels. Now suppose you are a woodcarver and your 40+ gouges are nearly all *curved*. How useful are your flat stones and granite tiles?
> 
> - Phil32


I thought ye olde master carvers only needed like 6 gouges? ;~)


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## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

I've got Shapton water stones, seldom use them since I bought a WorkSharp 3000. Wonderful little tool. If needed you can grind down a rough blade, but it's best at just taking a second, and keeping them sweet. Literally 3 to 4 seconds, and done. I swear it takes longer for it to spin up to speed, than to refresh an edge.

I cheat and don't buy WS supplies. I can get a LOT of paper for the cost of one of their assortment packs, and their glass discs, which break easily, can be replaced with 1/2" MDF. I use solid 6" AO Aluminum Oxide discs with a PSA backing.

Paper source for average paper. Buy 6' Heavy weight backed paper with a PSA backing.

Place I get super high grit paper, same quality as the WS stuff, but this goes higher grits.

On both of these not having a hole isn't an issue. Find center by placing a new disc on the tool, use your fingers to tell you where the soft center is, and take an awl, and poke a hole. Widening it out for the bolt to get through is just slowly moving it on. Takes maybe 10 seconds total, and your new paper is ready to use. I have MDF plates for all of the grits I use, and find you can mark the faces with a marker, and not affect the grit. I put same grit on both sides, so if the up side is dirty, I can quickly flip it.

I've found using the high grit paper I don't need leather, and rouge. So no messy end, but the WS's do really make some really fine black dust. I wear a 2 strap mask. A couple of chisels requiring some heavier work, and you will coat the machine in fine dust. On chisels I have bought from E Bay, most are a mess, and regrinding to get to where I want them can make a dust storm.


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## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

Phil I can do shapes on the WS. A turner friend always brings his dull chisels over for a fresh edge. He knows I am a cheap Ho for good beer. Plus I sharpen my carving tools on it a well as flat stuff. Like anyone sharpening shapes there is a little bit of the Chevy Chase na nan na na na na thing.


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

As you know, you've got options. Short term and long run.

(1) I acquired some leather, then cut it into circles and glued them together. A bolt, a couple washers and a nut and I can shove it in the drill press, then charge it with my favorite compound. The stuff used for carving knives is impressive.

(2) I, also, have chunks of granite I can lay wet sandpaper on, then drizzle water over. Granite places have to throw a lot away and you don't need machinist grade accuracy for our purposes.

If need be, you can cut it with an angle grinder and a HF diamond blade, with a drizzle of water.

(3) I use my stationary buffer to bring a polish to blades. It does quick work with inexpensive red jeweler's rouge.

(4) I have a four wheel grinder (pillow blocks and other goodies on a metal frame) It' driven by a 3/4 horse, DC motor. It's reversible and I can run it down to, say, 300 RPM. I have CBN wheels, a diamond wheel and a standard wheel. The slow speed really cuts down on wasting metal.


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

They have pretty good selections of round, triangle and other shapes in stones available on line.

You could, if need be, make profiles out of leather or MDF, then charge that. I haven't done it yet, but it may be a bit of my flocking would make a nice finish to toss the compound on to.

A good compound makes quick work of sharpening both the tips of my palm and other chisels, as well as my impact tips. Flexcut has some GREAT gold buff compound.

I've used toilet ring wax and diatomaceous earth to make my own plastic polish. It works on metal too. I suspect a bit of experimenting with adding fine carbide, in a small quantity, might make for an interesting experiment.



> It sounds like many of you have figured out how to sharpen your plane blades and chisels. Now suppose you are a woodcarver and your 40+ gouges are nearly all *curved*. How useful are your flat stones and granite tiles?
> 
> - Phil32


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## builtinbkyn (Oct 29, 2015)

I learned the hard way and Bubba has it right. Keep them sharp as you use them. Don't wait until they are giving you poor results. Take a minute away from what you're doing and hit the stones. Also, don't get too hung up on angle. I did that and made things more complicated than it should be. Put a secondary bevel on the tip too and keep that sharp. Much less metal to move. And the old adage of practice makes perfect applies. Once you get the feel, it will be second nature. No guides or gizmos required. Just a few good stones and a flattening stone. That is important especially if you're using wet stones. Takes a few passes on the wet stone to true it up.


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## BubbaIBA (Nov 23, 2011)

Thanks Bill,

I just want to add one thing, my sharpening bench looks like I use a large number of stones because I am set up to use oil, water, and JNats. I use a three stone sharpening regime; a grinding stone, a set up stone, and a polishing stone for which ever type of stone is used, oil, synthetic water, or JNat.

Most of the synthetic water stones could be stored they are used so seldom but I have room so they stay on the bench. For Western cutters and chisels the three stones are a Medium India to grind and restore the edge, a Lilly White Wa********************a to smooth the India's scratches and produce the wire edge, and a Surgical Black Arkansas to chase the wire edge and polish the back and bevel. With oil stones I will usually do a final strop on a Horse butt leather strop.

The JNats come out to play when I sharpen Japanese chisels because when sharpened with JNats the definition between the hard steel Hagane and the soft steel Jigane is preserved. Not so with synthetic stones. It is still a three stone process using a synthetic stone to grind and restore. I go back and forth between the Med India and a Shapton 1000 for that job. The set up stone is usually a big black Nagura. The polishing stone is my failure. I love JNats and have too many JNat polishing stones each with its own personality so while I still use a three stone regime the polishing stone will vary. So shoot me .

BTW, With my set up it takes longer to write about it than it takes to restore an edge while working.

ken


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## PPK (Mar 8, 2016)

> Andy - I m with you on sharpening is worse than sanding.
> if I could find a reliable tool sharpener in my area, I would PAY
> to have them all brought back to Scary Sharp and "maintain" them
> (this time) like they should be.
> ...


+1


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## dschlic1 (Jan 3, 2013)

I recently had to plane a 60" dia oak table top. I found just touching up the plane blade edge on my Worksharp using a MDF disk and polishing compound was all I needed and took like 10 seconds. That included removing the iron from the plane.


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

I've used wet/dry paper on granite, oil stones, diamond plates and Work Sharp 3000. I can get a sharp edge on any tool with any of these methods. I've never tried water stones but many others use them effectively and get razor edges so they obviously work too. It comes down to cost vs ease/speed of sharpening. Currently, I use my WorkSharp 3000 for most all of my tools. It is the most expensive but it also gives me a sharp tool in less time and requires virtually no clean up.

If not the Worksharp, I use diamond plates for chisels and planes. Two would be sufficient for normal sharpening. I have DMTs and the fine and XX fine are all I need unless I'm re-shaping a bevel. The cost is still pretty high for these unless you find them on a good sale. Cleanup isn't terrible but it is necessary and you have to keep the plates lubricated with something while sharpening.

Paper on granite is the least expensive up front. But if you sharpen a lot, the cost of paper will eventually overcome that. It has the same disadvantages of diamond plates but with the added PITA of changing paper.

I like oilstones for lots of things but chisels and planes aren't two of them. Natural Arkansas stones like I have are just too soft and dish too easily IMO. If you don't use a guide however, that's not as big of an issue. You have oil everywhere too and have to clean it off to prevent clogging the stones. I like a stiff toothbrush and some Barkeeper's Friend to scrub them after a session but most swear by Kerosene.

Regardless of the method used for sharpening, there is always a leather strop on an MDF backer somewhere near to hand charged with green compound. A few swipes will take a chisel back to sharp in no time as long as you don't let it get too dull or damaged. Plane blades, not so much. If I'm taking it out of the plane, I'm gonna go ahead and put it on the WorkSharp.

Hope that helps. In summary, my main point is that any of the established methods and mediums will get tools sharp. The tradeoffs come when you compare ease/effectiveness and cost.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Great thread, love sharp tools and listening to LJers shortens the learning curve tremendously. Thanks team!

Just for kicks I used a dowel with a charged piece of leather to sharpen a gouge chisel and for the outside edge a piece of maple cut out to match the radius. Worked well


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

I suspected this would be a rabbit hole topic but had no idea how deep! Regardless of the system I am onboard with the notion of touching them up as I use them. As I said, that's what I do with my skew I use for pen turning. I have yet to need to put it on a grinder and hone it as I use it. Practice does make a difference. Now the little credit card sized one sits next to the lathe and I pick it up and use it free hand like its second nature. I don't really have room or desire to set up a real sharpening bench so I'd probably opt for a few supplies in a Tupperware bin that I can pull out when needed.

I guess I have "sharpachislephobia" as I'm having a minor anxiety attack just reading through the options. Like John said I'd be happy to pay someone to get them all sharp every few years then use whatever method to touch them up like a barber uses a strop.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

The problem is matching "easiest" with "cheapest". The WS really does make it easy….and if you get Micro mesh discs for it you can get your chisels surgical sharp, keeping them that way with a trope the strope and green stick mentioned really extends edge life. Compared to the Tormek, the WS is well, cheaper. But of all the suggestions above, you can surely pick out something that matches your idea of easy and cheap.


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

One thing about any stone is the cupping others mentioned. To deal with that on my wet stones, I bought some loose carbide to level them again and it does a great job.

A piece of disposable glass works great for this.

Not sure how well this would work on carbide stones.

Here is a zone link for a bag, for $11.00:

https://www.amazon.com/Edge-Pro-Pound-Silicon-Carbide/dp/B00QLBATMQ


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

100% on that.

Sadly, it's like lathe knives for many things- if you don't do your own sharpening and set up for it, it's questionable as to whether or not you should even get in the game. The exception may be for things like your planes.



> Andy - I m with you on sharpening is worse than sanding.
> if I could find a reliable tool sharpener in my area, I would PAY
> to have them all brought back to Scary Sharp and "maintain" them
> (this time) like they should be.
> ...


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

Somebody has a WS 3000 on CL for $90. Watching youtube reviews it seems like a quick and simple method with no mess?


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## builtinbkyn (Oct 29, 2015)

Some may cringe, but I use the Cosman method. Two Japanese water stones - 3000 and 5000 - and a diamond plate 300 on one side and 1000 on the other - and a strop with paste. I also have a Tormek for when something is damaged and requires regrinding. I don't see the Tormek as necessary or use it very much. It also imparts a hollow grind. Can't use it on my Japanese chisels and I really don't think a hollow grind is a good idea for any cutting iron. Should have bought a WorkSharp, but I didn't get Kenny's advice first 

I've used sandpaper on glass, granite and my TS. If you have stock in 3M well then go for it. Use up too much paper and I never found the results worth it. I've used oil stones and they're just too messy and basically the same as water stones in terms of use. Water stones can be somewhat messy, but it's water and swarf which wipes away with a paper towel. Water stones are much easier to flatten too, IMO. All methods will wear the sharpening surface to a dish shape. Sandpaper you throw out and use a new piece. Both oil and water stones require flattening. No way around that.

I used to make more of this subject than it really deserves. I was fixated on the angle and all the rest of the aspects of sharpening. Sharp is an obvious need for accurate work with less effort. Get your tools to the specs they require - flat backs and a good chisel point. I spent a couple of full days in the shop doing that. Then all it takes is maintenance - sharpening while I work. I try not to put a chisel away without touching it up unless it was used very little. That way it's ready when I need it again. Doesn't always happen though


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

> ...I used to make more of this subject than it really deserves. I was fixated on the angle and all the rest of the aspects of sharpening. Sharp is an obvious need for accurate work with less effort. Get your tools to the specs they require - flat backs and a good chisel point. ...
> 
> - builtinbkyn


+1 and amen


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

> Somebody has a WS 3000 on CL for $90. Watching youtube reviews it seems like a quick and simple method with no mess?
> 
> - Andybb


Jump on it.

I sharpen with diamond plates and am happy with the results, but if an opportunity like that came up in my area, I'd be all over it. $90 is about the cost of one good quality diamond plate, so if all the worksharp does is keep you from buying a couple stones, you are ahead of the game.


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

Agree completely with JayT. At $90, the Work Sharp 3000 is a great deal.


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

Yet I find paying attention to the angle being the the most important part of getting a good edge. If I keep altering the angle, in the course of sharpening, I takes longer. Often, it would seem like I was not gaining ground. It's for that reason every system out their draws attention to their angle set up system.



> I used to make more of this subject than it really deserves. I was fixated on the angle and all the rest of the aspects of sharpening. Sharp is an obvious need for accurate work with less effort.
> 
> - builtinbkyn


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## builtinbkyn (Oct 29, 2015)

> Yet I find paying attention to the angle being the the most important part of getting a good edge. If I keep altering the angle, in the course of sharpening, I takes longer. Often, it would seem like I was not gaining ground. It s for that reason every system out their draws attention to their angle set up system.
> 
> I used to make more of this subject than it really deserves. I was fixated on the angle and all the rest of the aspects of sharpening. Sharp is an obvious need for accurate work with less effort. Get your tools to the specs they require - flat backs and a good chisel point. I spent a couple of full days in the shop doing that. Then all it takes is maintenance - sharpening while I work. I try not to put a chisel away without touching it up unless it was used very little. That way it s ready when I need it again. Doesn t always happen though
> 
> ...


This is the reason to use a secondary bevel. It takes very little work to move the metal and gain a sharp edge even if you're off a little. But in general, it's easy to find the bevel by feel. You don't see Cosman, Sherwin or any of the online guys using guides and gizmos. I have them, but found I was getting too caught up in using the gizmos vs gaining a sharp edge.


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## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

Fact of the matter is it's true, but the average person who isn't spending 60 hours a week in the shop does NOT possess that feel to go right back to 5 degree for your micro bevel, or whatever you want. You will repeatedly see a kinda 3 to 11 degree mish mash, that isn't about sharp at all.

I'd much rather my micro set up was in fact at 6 degree making me a 31 degree, but always a 31degree Sharpening, at least for me, has always been more about repeatability than an absolute degree.


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## BubbaIBA (Nov 23, 2011)

Anyone "cupping" or grooving their oil stones is using poor technique or have a set of really bad stones. Oil stones "messy"? Again how are you using them. Lack of mess is one of the reasons to use oil stones, that and no hassle with keeping them flat.

A set of good oils stones should last several lifetimes with little maintenance. Use the whole stone, no need to bathe the stone in oil, wipe it off when finished. That is about the sum of maintenance. If it stops cutting or slows too much refresh with another stone or a diamond plate. that is about it. I sharpen almost every day of the week and some of my stones have been with me for a long time with little apparent wear because I use the whole stone to sharpen my irons.

One of the mistakes folks make when they buy stones is to buy too wide. I know they need a wide stone to use their jigs but a jig and a wide stone leads you to just use the center of the stone which will cup any stone. With a narrow stone and freehand you will tend to use the whole stone which means less maintenance and there is no need to pay for stone that is not needed.

That said, my favorite Surgical Black Arkansas polishing stone is 3' wide and an inch thick and yes I have to remember to use the whole stone. It also cost a few pennies for an Arkansas oil stone but I'll be dead and gone before that sucker thins enough to notice.

The OP asked about IIRC cheap sharpening systems, there is no cheaper that a three oil stone system. A Medium India to grind, a medium to hard Arkansas to set up, and a Surgical or Translucent to polish. The whole kit can be had for less than $170 USD and it will last a lifetime plus your kids lifetime and if you stay away from A2 is all you will ever need.

ken


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

Even a micro bevel requires repetition of the angle. My solution is a gauge of some sort even for a micro bevel (yes, I use them).

I, often, hear people claim one needs to learn muscle memory angles to properly sharpen, but they never have an answer to my question of it they can call upon their muscle memory to put an edge on a:

razor
kitchen knife
hunting knife
ax
lawnmower blade
roughing gouge
skew chisel 
bowl gouge
pocket knife
palm chisels
. . . ?


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

Bubba, cupping is normal for many applications. However, it may change from end to end to left to right, depending on the use of the stone. It is because of that expectation they sell the carbide I mentioned, above.

One example would be, putting a chisel on a guide and, unless you have a surface surrounding the stone with the same elevation, you can't use the whole stone.

Another would be, when you run a knife across a stone on an Edge Pro. You'd be hard pressed to start every run at the very end of the stone.

Of course there are many other examples.


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

> Somebody has a WS 3000 on CL for $90. Watching youtube reviews it seems like a quick and simple method with no mess?
> 
> - Andybb
> 
> ...





> Agree completely with JayT. At $90, the Work Sharp 3000 is a great deal.
> 
> - HokieKen


I'm about 2 hrs away but if it hasn't been snatched already I'll give it a shot. Hopefully the guy will take Paypal and let me pay for shipping otherwise I'm taking a drive. I can easily rationalize fuel. Don't know how often they show up on CL.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

A slow speed grinder is less than $100. Upgrade the wheel with a medium grit aluminum oxide wheel.

That and 2000 grit sandpaper or an Arkansas Stone and strop will get you as sharp as you need.

Want sharper just go to 3000 grit.


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

Thanks for all of the replies to my rabbit hole. If I can get the CL WS3000 for $90 or less (or even a little more if that one is gone or even wait and buy a new one) I will after reading all of your great responses and watching way too many youtube vids over the last few days. Although nothing is foolproof, for me it's worth it to have a machine that has a small footprint, is always ready to go with very little guesswork and what seems to have the least room for human error. I can't really find any negative reviews and being able to just turn around, flatten the back then slide the blade in and out of a slot and have no burr is the closest to what I'm after. *It also seems like the easiest way to make sure they stay sharp.* Like i said, I hate sharpening so the idea of doing it enough to develop a technique and muscle memory is not something i want to spend time doing. For me it's kind of like my attitude towards playing golf. I don't like it enough to practice enough to get good at it. "Good enough for govt. work" is the phrase that comes to mind.


> A slow speed grinder is less than $100. Upgrade the wheel with a medium grit aluminum oxide wheel.
> 
> - Don W


Got one that I bought for my lathe tools before I switched to carbide because it takes me 15 seconds to sharpen them on a $10 credit card size diamond plate. Haven't used it in over a year. I mostly turn pens. If I start turning bowls I'll probably pull it out.


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

.


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

I use a belt sander to sharpen my lathe tools. I made a couple of jigs fashioned after the Sorby Proedge designs that make it really easy. It takes longer to walk over to it than it does to sharpen. I also use the belt sander instead of my grinder when I need to fix or reshape an edge. You have basically an unlimited range of grits, instead of just 2 with the grinder and doesn't leave you with a hollow grind. I also find it much easier to avoid overheating the steel. I've tried sharpening my chisels with it but I cannot get the results with it that I can with hand sharpening.


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

Bought this with free shipping. Has some extras like the top plate for wide blade sharpening and the knife sharpening attachment new in the box so it seemed like a good deal. Plus, apparently you can sharpen gouges on it also. If so selling the grinder will cover most of the cost of the WS 3000.









Just in time for T-Giving. My M in Law always jokes that Julie and Andy have the worlds largest collection of dull knives.


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

Well done Andy. The wide blade attachment is what I use most of the time. I also have the knife sharpener. It's kind of awkward to use but it's useful some times too.


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## DrTebi (Jun 16, 2009)

One more +1 for a WorkSharp, that was a great choice. I built my own version of it, and am very happy with it.

As mentioned already, I agree that keeping your waterstones flat is utterly important. I use a 3/4" glass plate to which I have attached sandpaper with double-sided tape. Works like a charm and cost next to nothing.


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

> One more +1 for a WorkSharp, that was a great choice. I built my own version of it, and am very happy with it.
> 
> As mentioned already, I agree that keeping your waterstones flat is utterly important. I use a 3/4" glass plate to which I have attached sandpaper with double-sided tape. Works like a charm and cost next to nothing.
> 
> - DrTebi


Question….When would you use the waterstones vs the WS??.


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## rad457 (Jun 15, 2013)

*Question….When would you use the waterstones vs the WS??.*

When you want to get it really sharp?


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## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

I have to say, unless I drop a chisel I just touch mine up as I'm using them, and the WS is just so fast my Shapton's are basically unemployed. I only keep them for travel, and unexpected power outage, or God forbid my WS goes poof, and let's the black smoke Genie out. Because of the inconsistencies I spoke of earlier with hand sharpening, and some of that is even using a jig I can get much sharper with the WS.


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

> I have to say, unless I drop a chisel I just touch mine up as I m using them, and the WS is just so fast my Shapton s are basically unemployed. I only keep them for travel, and unexpected power outage, or God forbid my WS goes poof, and let s the black smoke Genie out. Because of the inconsistencies I spoke of earlier with hand sharpening, and some of that is even using a jig I can get much sharper with the WS.
> 
> - therealSteveN


That's *exactly* the kind of thing I was looking for when I started this thread. Thanks everyone. I feel like I made an informed decision which is really the best I can hope for. Can't wait to get it.

I started this because I was working on a project that required a whole heap of mortise and tenons. While watching folks on YouTube using chisels I knew I wasn't getting the same results and couldn't slice end grain. Then I realized I didn't know what scary sharp was and knew I wasn't patient enough to do it by hand.

The Swiss blades I thought were scary sharp out of the box a week ago are now dull, but for a day or two it was awesome. I'm not even going to attempt to sharpen them until the WS gets here.


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

For chisels, if you're using them to pare endgrain, I'd recommend getting the micro mesh honing abrasives. They are kind of expensive but I've had my worksharp for almost two years and I'm still using the same two sheets. I only use them for polishing up the edges on stuff I need "shaving" sharp. Everything else just goes to 1000. You can also buy a leather honing disc but I prefer to just use a leather strop on the bench. I know others who love to strop on the WS as well though.


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

When you get your WS you might want to take a couple beater chisels and practice. It took me a bit to be comfortable and get consistent results. I use my WS all the time.


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## builtinbkyn (Oct 29, 2015)

I guess this is somewhat pertinent to the discussion for some who may not understand the difference between sharpening media and possibly why one is preferred over another and how each works and performs. (link below) All stones must be flattened. It's just a matter of how often this needs to be done to a particular type of stone. Just as an edge may appear sharp but not be, a stone may appear flat and not be. This will effect the results of the sharpening session and the final results.

It doesn't matter how you get there and what method is used. It just matters that it's sharp. 

Sharpeningsupplies.com


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## BubbaIBA (Nov 23, 2011)

I'm not trying to rain on the Worksharp parade but as with all things wood YMMV. I had a Worksharp with all the accessories for a couple of years, tried Worksharp's disks, after market diamond disks, made my own from sheet sandpaper and so on. I ended up giving it all away to a friend that uses and loves the system.

I found it too limiting, slow and did not work as well as just a simple set of stones that could sharpen any thing in the shop and get the iron sharper with a better scratch pattern.

BTW, something else I've noticed on this thread is near universal avocation of micro bevels. Not so fast cowboy. Your best and most repeatable bevel is a simple flat bevel, once set there is no muscle memory of angles and the iron jigs itself. Simple fast and works with little or no need for jigs. BTW, that is one point in Worksharps favor it can set a flat bevel.

Again as always YMMV and what works for me may not for thee.

ken


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

> ...
> BTW, something else I ve noticed on this thread is near universal avocation of micro bevels. Not so fast cowboy. Your best and most repeatable bevel is a simple flat bevel, ....
> 
> ken
> ...


Totally agree. If you like a micro bevel, then go for it.  But personally I don't find any advantage to having a second bevel in use and it saves me very little, if any, time when sharpening. Especially with the WorkSharp. YMMV of course…


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## BubbaIBA (Nov 23, 2011)

> I guess this is somewhat pertinent to the discussion for some who may not understand the difference between sharpening media and possibly why one is preferred over another and how each works and performs. (link below) All stones must be flattened. It s just a matter of how often this needs to be done to a particular type of stone. Just as an edge may appear sharp but not be, a stone may appear flat and not be. This will effect the results of the sharpening session and the final results.
> 
> *It doesn t matter how you get there and what method is used.* It just matters that it s sharp.
> 
> ...


Bill,

Pretty close but no cigar. The sharpening medium can and will have different scratch patterns and character. As an example diamond plates will often have rogue diamonds and will have very straight sided scratches, synthetic water stones may not have the rogue particles but will have straight sided ordered scratches. Natural stones have scratch patterns that are random and have smoother sides. While synthetic stones will give a very shiny surface because the straight sided scratches reflect light better than the soft sided natural scratches the natural stones will give a better and longer lasting edge because there are less areas to fail.

Shortly before he died Master British maker David Savage posted a blog entry on this subject with electron microscope photos to make his point.

ken


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

I think Bill's point (one which I will echo with aplomb) is that if *you* get *your* tools sharp enough to do the work that *you* do, you did it right…


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## builtinbkyn (Oct 29, 2015)

^


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## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

> For chisels, if you re using them to pare endgrain, I d recommend getting the micro mesh honing abrasives. They are kind of expensive but I ve had my worksharp for almost two years and I m still using the same two sheets. I only use them for polishing up the edges on stuff I need "shaving" sharp. Everything else just goes to 1000. You can also buy a leather honing disc but I prefer to just use a leather strop on the bench. I know others who love to strop on the WS as well though.
> 
> - HokieKen


Ken did you see my earlier post about getting my Micro Mesh from SIS Web About 2 bux a sheet, and they go way higher grits than WS does on their packaging. I find with 12,000 grit I don't need to use leather, and rouge.

https://www.sisweb.com/micromesh/mmr_discs.htm

WS gives you 2 sheets for 15 bux, Going SIS Web I would see at least 5 sheets for the same $$$$. Just make sure to spec PSA backed, and 6" because they sell more H&L backed, and a lot of 5" Their market seems to be jewelers, and lab rats, so saying Work Sharp didn't have much understanding the times I have ordered. You will pay S&H, but it wasn't much, and I was getting something like 80 sheets each time I've ordered. NOT Amazoo kinda fast either, so some planning required.


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

Thanks SteveN! I just bookmarked their site. I'll give them a shot next time I need some for the WS. I used the micro mesh pads on my lathe a lot too so I'll see what options they have there too


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## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

> Bill,
> 
> Pretty close but no cigar. The sharpening medium can and will have different scratch patterns
> 
> ...


Ken I readily agree about scratch patterns, but keep in mind I am talking about a scratch pattern from 12,000 grit media. How deep do you reckon that is. Now if I was talking 80 grit, I am with you all day long. At some point, and I'm not a metalurgist, so I imagine it would vary with your different grades of metals, and even with the type edge you are going for, but at some point that scratch pattern becomes moot, as it's too fine to affect anything. Razor sharp is still razor sharp, and the point I hope I have made all along is if it is razor sharp you can easily cut, but it also will require trips back to keep it that way.

Also why at this level a micro bevel works so well, as it is still very sharp, but only for a very short distance, so most of your steel backs you up, at a not quite, so oblique an angle. If you did a straight grind (primary grind only) for this sharpness you would bend over your edge rapidly, and uncurling it, is more akin to major work, than just freshening it up if it's just slightly blunted.


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## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

> Thanks SteveN! I just bookmarked their site. I ll give them a shot next time I need some for the WS. I used the micro mesh pads on my lathe a lot too so I ll see what options they have there too
> 
> - HokieKen


For the lathe, have you seen this kit?

Also by type.


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## Manitario (Jul 4, 2010)

This is such a common question and as you can probably already tell by the 70 replies, there is no one good way to sharpen but everyone has an opinion!! Bottom line; you can do almost anything to get a sharp blade. What I encourage you to do is find a way that works for you, ie. a way that you find quick, easy and repeatable. For you, that will be the "best" way. 
I started off using the scary sharp method with sandpaper and the Veritas MKII guide, moved on to diamond stones, briefly used a Tormek and now I use waterstones and a cheap "Eclipse" style guide for 90% of my sharpening. For the odd shaped tools I'll use the Veritas MKII guide and/or freehand sharpen. This works for me, and is quick and easy. What's important is that you find an easy way to do things as there is no one "best" way.


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## Kirk650 (May 8, 2016)

I've varied my sharpening approach a few times. My present approach is diamond stones followed by a short session on a black Arkansas oilstone, and a couple of swipes on a leather strop covered in a rouge. It's pretty fast. To 'redo' an edge, I'll use a Veritas guide, but while working with the chisels I'll touch up edges freestyle.


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## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

> This is such a common question and as you can probably already tell by the 70 replies, there is no one good way to sharpen but everyone has an opinion!! Bottom line; you can do almost anything to get a sharp blade. What I encourage you to do is find a way that works for you, ie. a way that you find quick, easy and repeatable. For you, that will be the "best" way.
> 
> - Manitario


Absolutely.

I find in woodworking in general, and sharpening in particular there are a LOT of ways to skin any one Cat. Almost everyone's journey I am aware of has a reasonable person trying new ideas, and comparing them back to their "norm" or in some cases their Norman, depending on how much he influenced how they approached woodworking.

At the end of the day what you are most comfortable with, and feel gives you the best success is what you should use. Even if 93.2% of the LJers think you are crazy for doing it like that.


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

FYI, here's how I keep all my WS crap together Andy. Also, pay special attention to the last picture. It makes using the blade sharpening attachment MUCH easier.


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## OSU55 (Dec 14, 2012)

> BTW, something else I ve noticed on this thread is near universal avocation of micro bevels. Not so fast cowboy. Your best and most repeatable bevel is a simple flat bevel, once set there is no muscle memory of angles and the iron jigs itself. Simple fast and works with little or no need for jigs. BTW, that is one point in Worksharps favor it can set a flat bevel.
> 
> ken


Not so fast there cowboy. Appears there is misunderstanding of the purpose of microbevels. They are to reduce honing time at higher grits. There is a huge difference in polishing an entire flat bevel face vs a 0.010"-0.030" wide band across an edge with very fine grits < 10um or so. Freehanders use a hollow ground bevel to provide the width of bevel support to balance on, others like myself use some type of jig to control the microbevel angle. The jigs I use provide very repeatable relocation of the microbevel. Full flat bevels require much tighter relocation of the bevel angle since to miss the mark requires more metal removal to get to the edge, or if too steep would result in a …. microbevel.


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## BubbaIBA (Nov 23, 2011)

> BTW, something else I ve noticed on this thread is near universal avocation of micro bevels. Not so fast cowboy. Your best and most repeatable bevel is a simple flat bevel, once set there is no muscle memory of angles and the iron jigs itself. Simple fast and works with little or no need for jigs. BTW, that is one point in Worksharps favor it can set a flat bevel.
> 
> ken
> 
> ...


Jigs? What are those? 

I stand by my statement.

ken


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

> FYI, here s how I keep all my WS crap together Andy. Also, pay special attention to the last picture. It makes using the blade sharpening attachment MUCH easier.
> 
> 
> 
> - HokieKen


Excellent!


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

Thanks for all of the suggestions. Got my ebay WS 3000 yesterday. Maybe not the best choice for everyone but definitely a great choice for me. Takes about 10 minutes each to get my collection of various and sundry gnarley chisels scary sharp complete with a secondary bevel and about 10 seconds to keep them that way as I use them. The Swiss chisels I thought were scary sharp are even scarier now. It even does my lathe gouges. I'm a happy camper.


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

Good for you Andy! Glad you like it. The WS has definitely streamlined my sharpening process and given me great results. I never really got the hang of using it for my lathe gouges so I still use my bench grinder for those. The WS gets the nod for most everything else though!


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

I have the Worksharp and like it. I was looking at ways to sharpen my lathe tools and looking at a slow speed grinder with CBN wheels. I saw where you can get CBN disks for the Worksharp and wondered if anyone has gotten the CBN for it.


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## Joel_B (Aug 14, 2014)

This is a great thread. I have been using waterstones but they are a bit messy and a constant struggle to keep flat.
They also are not super fast.
I was considering getting a diamond stone to solve the flatness problem.
Never heard about the WS 3000 before, but after looking at it, it looks appealing and I think it might make a good Xmas present for me.


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

Well, as a new WS owner I can say it was what I was looking for. Spend 10 minutes getting the chisels sharp then 10-15 seconds keeping them that way while using them. Takes a little practice but then goes quick. Watch the video that comes with it.


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## sansoo22 (May 7, 2019)

> Bought this with free shipping. Has some extras like the top plate for wide blade sharpening and the knife sharpening attachment new in the box so it seemed like a good deal. Plus, apparently you can sharpen gouges on it also. If so selling the grinder will cover most of the cost of the WS 3000.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That's a nice deal. The wide blade attachment isn't offered anymore and that alone has kept me from getting one. I know you can free hand plane irons on one but the whole point of a machine like that, in my opinion, is easily repeatable edges. For now i have 4 DMT diamond stones, 2 shaptons, a strop and a Woodriver jig. I will be upgrading to the MK II soon tho.

Pay no attention to the labels on the DMTs as they aren't accurate. They are in order from left to right XX-Coarse, X-Coarse, Fine, X-Fine, and of course 4000 and 8000 shaptons.








The XX-Coarse is only used for changing a bevel angle or restoring old chisels and irons. Most of the time I start on the Fine stone. If I'm just "refreshing" a blade I can start on the X-Fine and is the reason I have the 2 different boards.

I may still consider the WS 3000 when I start a project that requires a lot of chisel work.


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

There are a few YouTube vids on how to make a DIY version of the wide blade adapter.


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## Joel_B (Aug 14, 2014)

I am confused about the wide blade adapter.
Without it you can sharpen plane blades up to 2 inches wide in the same port as chisels.
Is that right?
I don't have any plane blades wider than 2 inches so the wide blade adapter may not be useful to me.

Thanks


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

Although I am a new adopter, that I believe is a correct statement. And as I said earlier it's an easy DIY add on if you need it. The thing I think I need to DIY is the bar that seems like it would be helpful for the gouges.


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

Andy has it right. The chisel port can be used for blades up to 2" wide so it will handle most plane irons as well as chisels.


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

Also as far as the micro bevel goes it is also easy to do on the WS 3000 if you want to. Just get a perfectly sharp honed edge then set the angle one click to 5 degrees more then use the 1000 3000 and hone and you get a micro bevel. That's where I leave it set with the hone disc on it and in 5-10 seconds it's razor sharp again. I really like this machine. It has a footprint on a shelf of 6×10" and just stays plugged in. Saw a neat trick on YouTube of putting a magnet under the disc to grab all of the shavings.


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## Oprod (Sep 7, 2019)

I've used oil stones for years. I used scary sharp a time or two, but didn't like using that much sand paper. When I recently tried diamond stones and Japanese water stones,I was amazed at the time savings as well as the superior quality I am able to reproduce. I use my grizzly with a tormented wheel for grinding or roughing in an angle usually on new tools or eBay, flea market finds. Once established I use a 300/1000 grit DMT diamond stone. The 1000 diamond stone is pretty good, but for carving or my mortise chisels I use water stones 3000 and 6000 grit. I then use my carving chisels and strop frequently with rouge on leather. I too use the Veritas mkII guides., they make putting back bevels so easy and everything is so repeatable. I admire the guys that can do it by hand, but I cannot, but with this methodology I'm giving up no quality. Good luck.


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## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

> Also as far as the micro bevel goes it is also easy to do on the WS 3000 if you want to. Just get a perfectly sharp honed edge then set the angle one click to 5 degrees more then use the 1000 3000 and hone and you get a micro bevel.
> 
> - Andybb


Andy I have tried to say this exactly in a number of sharpening threads. You Sir are a better wordsmith than I.

Excited you are enjoying the WS. You'll find they do repeatable work, and couldn't be any easier. I think you'll also find that working with a micro bevel will allow you to go longer between touch ups, from the simple point of view you are trying to curl a smaller piece of the blade. While doing that I feel it's a better edge to work with as well.

Enjoy.


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## P89DC (Oct 1, 2017)

You can pry my DMT plates, mkII and Windex bottle out of my cold, dead hands! Free the micro bevel!

I'm glad OP found his sharpening groove. I'm on my third iteration and fifth tweak. This one is working well, isn't too messy and has a low long term cost. We'll see how long it lasts


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Hmmm, as far as something with a motor and a bin for water…









Still trying to learn about this WEN machine…..


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

I just picked up a set of carving knives. Their design is like the Pfeils and other high end carving tools, but they run about 1/4th price. They may or may not hold an edge as well as Pfeils, Two Cherries and others do. That is to be seen.

What was, immediately, seen is, just as the pro's said,over and over again, all of them had to be resharpened. Not just because they were not as sharp as they could be, but because their angles merely got purchasers into the ballpark of where they needed to be.

FIRST, I ended up taking all of them to my grinder, where, with it turned down to about 400 RPM, I re-profiled them.

SECOND, I touched them up using diamond plates.

THIRD, I took them over to my buffer. (See NOTE)

FOURTH and key, was the leather charged with compound (I like the Flexcut gold stuff, even more than my chromium oxide).

Eric's post of his sharpening station shows two or three leather strops. I believe they are the most used sharpening tools. They should be kept near the work area, when using chisels and knives.

As others pointed out, above, they make the difference between carving or cutting tasks being easy or difficult and save a lot of sharpening time by keeping the edges of sharpened tools work ready.

__
NOTE: I'm lucky to have a nice buffer, compliments of craigslist (it has built in, significant dust collection using common filters (Air Handler). It cuts WAY down polishing time when I'm sharpening chisels and carving and other knives. It is not a must, though the longer I've had it, the more valuable it seems to become, whether cleaning up some plastic or epoxy, or polishing knife edges.


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

I'm sure my version of scary sharp is dull to some folks but the WS3000 accomplishes my goal of easily being able to keep my chisels "very" sharp with a minimum of steps and hassle.


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## Jeremymcon (Jul 16, 2016)

I didn't read all the other replies, but for me, diamond stones and a honing guide (if you need it - I sharpen freehand, but some people can't) are the very least amount of fuss I have found. They stay flat, they last a long time, and the come in very fine grits. I also strop after with green compound in leather.

They're pricy, but you're buying a lot of time savings in my mind, and they outlast water stones by a lot!

If you freehand sharpen you'll probably need to grind occasionally, but you can do that freehand too if you have steady hands. Any cheap grinder will work as long as you are careful.


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

For my kitchen, pocket or hunting knives, I use water stones. I was majorly impressed with what they did. However, they do cup and such pretty quick doing their pretty quick job.

I've cheap, as in Harbor Freight diamond stones that are all but sprayed on and I, now, have good quality ones. The cheap ones have proven very valuable for re-profiling. Those are followed up with the finer and more expensive diamond plates, then buffing and stroping. As Jeremymcon's post indicates, they save time and, in the long run, money.


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## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

I had one of those old Wen sharpeners bandit. Inherited it from my uncle along with a craftsman drill press i could stop with my hand. Theyre about similar machines unfortunately. Any pressure stopped it dead in its tracks.

Worksharp and water stones for me. WS gets me close. Stones take it home and a leather strop keeps me goin.


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