# Best way to attach mdf countertop?



## MartiTx (Jan 10, 2012)

This is for garage base cabinets, not a workbench. The bases are built out of 3/4 inch plywood and I want to put a flat countertop on it. For now, just mdf. Whenever we put wood flooring upstairs, I'd like to use the same flooring on the counters. That, however, will be a good long time from now. What I'm thinking is 2 layers of 5/8 inch mdf. That will give me a solid, flat counter and four surfaces should one get too beat up. The last smooth surface for the wood flooring.

The surface will be used mainly for picture frame assembly, but I'll also put my scroll saw on it from time to time and will have bolt holes for that.

I'd rather not screw from the top though it doesn't really matter if I countersink because I'll already have holes in the top for the scroll saw. What would be the best way to firmly attach and yet be fairly easy to get to for replacement? S clips from the bottom? Wood corner supports? Another way?

Thanks!


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

How are your base cabinets built? Are there stretchers corner blocks or anything to screw thought into your top? I wouldn't use two layers when I can buy 1 1/8 and be done with it.


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## jerryminer (Jun 15, 2014)

SOP for me is to use stretchers across the top of the base cabinets and drive screws through the stretcher up into the counter top.

I would not attach wood flooring to mdf for a countertop-it would not want to stay flat. Mdf alone would be better, IMHO than the mdf/T&G hardwood combo.


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## MartiTx (Jan 10, 2012)

Thank you. AlaskaGuy, I couldn't lift 1-1/8" onto the table saw; I'm doing good to lift 5/8". And yes, there are stretchers across the top. Good point about the flooring, Jerry. I guess I'll see how well the mdf holds up. It will be a year or two before we begin to finish upstairs.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Screws from underneath - one in each corner at least. They are just there to keep it from sliding, so don't need to be super strong or beefy.

Cheers,
Brad


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

I can't lift it anymore either. I can slide it out of my truck on to a table (with wheels) and then slide it on to my table saw. Of course if you're in a basement shop or other restricting situations then I can understand that.


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

My shop cabinets have a 3/4" plywood top with 1/4" on top and easily replaceable. It is finished with shellac well soaked in.


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

I rolled on two coats of clear poly and my bench has held up well to numerous cabinets and other project builds, as well as several glue ups.

It is a single layer of 3/4 inch plywood…with a lot of dog holes in it. I use them mainly for clamping things down to hold them in place. The bench is similar to the Ron Paulk total station.


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## Luthierman (Jun 4, 2015)

I'd just use silicone. That's what big granite and solid surface companies use. Easy and effective.


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## Carloz (Oct 12, 2016)

Whenever I need a temporary joint I use hot glue.


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## rbrjr1 (Nov 2, 2017)

this topic is of interest to me.


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## builtinbkyn (Oct 29, 2015)

If you glue blocks to the bottom of the top that align with the stretchers, you can fasten the top to the case with screws thru blocks. If you even need to remove the top, you'll just have to unscrew it. You can screw directly into thr MDF, but that's not the best route to go IMO.


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## PharmDre (Nov 24, 2017)

interesting


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