# Arts and Crafts Wedge and Strap Bed



## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*Laminated Posts*

This is the queen size bed that I am building. Material is quartersawn red oak. 








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I started with some veneers for the legs. I resawed some 3/4" stock at the bandsaw, and planed them to thickness. Then I wrapped them with some shrink wrap to keep them flat. 








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The veneers are slightly oversized, and 1/4" thick. Although the finished veneers will be only 3/32" thick, I leave them thicker because 1) they are easier to glue up, and 2) they come out of the planer looking better than thin strips. 








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I have a bunch of solid red and white oak posts, however once milled up I realized they were all too small for the 4×4" posts called for in the plan. 








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Next I glued up rough leg blanks. They consist of two 8/4 boards, and two 3/4" boards. 








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Rough thickness is 4-1/8" x 4-1/2" at this stage. 








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Here is the rough glueup. The thickness here is 4-1/2".








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At this point I realized that the moisture content of the 8/4 boards was too high. I was getting 12% readings, with one individual board measuring 14%. So, I stacked the rough blanks in a small room with a dehumidifier and fans for a week or so. This dried them to 6-8% core moisture content. 








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Next I mill the rough blanks straight and square, and glue on the 1/4" veneers. Notice the large clamping cauls on both sides. 








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Here the leg blanks are coming together, and are ready for veneer trimming at the router table. 








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With the veneers trimmed, and the legs planed to final dimensions of 4×4", I laid out and cut some mortises. The large oversquare mortises will receive the bed side rails.








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The rectangular mortises will receive tenons from the headboard / footboard panels. 








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The horizontal mortise is for the lower shelf. 








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Here you see the lower headboard shelf, and some details of the plan. The slat detail above the upper shelf is inspired by Kevin Rodel's arts and crafts dining chair, which was featured in Fine Woodworking Magazine. 








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Spent yesterday afternoon unloading my new toy, a DJ-20. What a beast!









Next up will be the footboard panels.
Cheers!


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## HillbillyShooter (Feb 15, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Laminated Posts*
> 
> This is the queen size bed that I am building. Material is quartersawn red oak.
> 
> ...


Nice looking design! I'll look forward to following your blog on this project.


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## jeffbranch (Feb 20, 2011)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Laminated Posts*
> 
> This is the queen size bed that I am building. Material is quartersawn red oak.
> 
> ...


Looking good. I'll be following along.


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## sb194 (Feb 19, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Laminated Posts*
> 
> This is the queen size bed that I am building. Material is quartersawn red oak.
> 
> ...


As usual, your work and design are fantastic. I am looking forward to the progress and the completed bed.

Sean


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## AandCstyle (Mar 21, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Laminated Posts*
> 
> This is the queen size bed that I am building. Material is quartersawn red oak.
> 
> ...


Willie, the angled panels remind me of some of Esherick's work. He was a creative genius and phenomenal woodworker. Is that where you got your inspiration?

Congrats on the new jointer! Every project of this scale deserves at least one new tool.


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## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Laminated Posts*
> 
> This is the queen size bed that I am building. Material is quartersawn red oak.
> 
> ...


Love the design! The finished result will be fantastic. Thanks for bringing us along.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Laminated Posts*
> 
> This is the queen size bed that I am building. Material is quartersawn red oak.
> 
> ...


Art, I built an entry door a while back with a tapered center stile. You see it every so often on entry doors, and that is where I got the idea.

Thanks


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## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Laminated Posts*
> 
> This is the queen size bed that I am building. Material is quartersawn red oak.
> 
> ...


Always enjoy watching you work.


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## Ken90712 (Sep 2, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Laminated Posts*
> 
> This is the queen size bed that I am building. Material is quartersawn red oak.
> 
> ...


Great work, going to be awesome. Love the design.


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## bannerpond1 (Mar 15, 2013)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Laminated Posts*
> 
> This is the queen size bed that I am building. Material is quartersawn red oak.
> 
> ...


Awesome work! Thanks for sharing and inspiring.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*Footboard*

Here is the bed project at hand…








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I added some through tenons to complete the front legs.








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With the legs complete, it was simply a matter of constructing a mortise and tenon frame. The grooves for the panels are 1/2" deep, while the stile tenons are 1-1/2" long for added strength. This extra tenon length also helps to register the stiles in postion during glueup. 








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Next I temporarily clamp the panel behind the frame, to transfer the opening size to the panel. 








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I ripped a strip of wood to 3/8" width to use as a guide. The strip helps me mark the outside edge of the panel. 








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Since the panels are angled, I used a crosscut sled to trim the panels to final size. A wedge can be used against the fence of the sled for added stability. 








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Then I rabbeted the back of the panels with a dado blade, and slid the assembly together. 








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Dry fitting looks pretty good. On large assemblies, I aim for an easy friction fit. 








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Here is the backside of the footboard.








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The panel rabbets are 1/2" wide, which allows 1/8" movement in all directions. The panel will be able to expand a total of 1/4" within the groove. 








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My original plans called for only 3 cross members, but I added a 4th. I figure I can use the lower inside rail as an additional anchor point to add strength to the bed bolts. 








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Footboard with cap removed.








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The rear legs are standing behind the footboard to show the relative height of the headboard. 








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Here you can see some of the extensive mortising required in the headboard posts. 








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Next up… the headboard.
Cheers!


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## HillbillyShooter (Feb 15, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Footboard*
> 
> Here is the bed project at hand…
> 
> ...


Have you considered using space balls in the rabbits between the panels and frame to eliminate movement? Otherwise, looking goog.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Footboard*
> 
> Here is the bed project at hand…
> 
> ...


I use self adhesive weather stripping to similar effect. I have never tried the Space Balls product, but I always seem to have a roll of weather stripping laying around. It helps to center the panel during assembly, but still allows seasonal movement.


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## HillbillyShooter (Feb 15, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Footboard*
> 
> Here is the bed project at hand…
> 
> ...


Same idea, however the life expectancy might be a little longer on space balls (but I wouldn't bet on it). Best wishes and look forward to your progress reports.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Footboard*
> 
> Here is the bed project at hand…
> 
> ...


I guess I never gave any thought to that. I just use the foam to center the panel during glueup. I glue the middle few inches of the panel only - at the top and bottom. From there on out, the panel can expand and contract freely.


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## AandCstyle (Mar 21, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Footboard*
> 
> Here is the bed project at hand…
> 
> ...


Willie, excellent progress. Keep the pix coming.


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## Ken90712 (Sep 2, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Footboard*
> 
> Here is the bed project at hand…
> 
> ...


Nice!


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*Headboard , Locking Miter Joints*

Here is the queen bed project I am working on…








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Before moving on to the headboard, I needed to install some button caps on the footboard. I start by chamfering a 15 degree pyramid on the end of some leg stock. 








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Pyramid shape complete.








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Next I use the dado set to cut a tenon on the end of the button cap.








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Then the button cap is cut free.








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Finally I route a mortise for the button cap with a plunge router and spiral bit. 








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Button caps installed on footboard. 








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Now I turn my attention to the headboard. With the legs and rails sanded, I do the initial glueup. The top rail is dry fit, which will allow me to add the side panels in a second glueup. 








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Here you can see how the rails come together to make the lower shelf. Parts are offset from one another to create subtle shadow lines typical of arts and crafts furniture. 








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The transition from side panels to the center panel looks like a solid post, but is actually a lock miter joint.








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A couple test passes ensure a good fitting lock miter joint. It is amazing how the joint friction-fits together. A lock miter offers some mechanical strength, as well as good surface area for a strong glue joint. 








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If you get a ledge on your milled workpiece, try moving the router table fence. 








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Once my bit height and fence settings are dialed in, I carpet tape strips of 1/4" MDF to the fence. I make the first pass on both pieces, then remove the MDF strips and complete the second pass. Remember to mill one workpiece flat on the table, and mill the mating workpiece referencing the fence. 








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The joinery on the headboard comes together like this…








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Here the angled stiles and remaining panel components are added. 








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The top rail extends the entire width of the headboard, and will function as a valance for some low voltage lighting. 








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My little helpers…








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We even had some visiters behind the shop.









Next up will be the central panel of the headboard.
Cheers!


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## HillbillyShooter (Feb 15, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Headboard , Locking Miter Joints*
> 
> Here is the queen bed project I am working on…
> 
> ...


Great photography! Thanks for the construction details, especially your method for making the "button caps" on your sander-a definite keeper.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Headboard , Locking Miter Joints*
> 
> Here is the queen bed project I am working on…
> 
> ...


Yeah, I either use a 36 grit belt at the OSS, or I will rough out the pyramid on the miter saw and sand it to final shape. 
I would normally make real through tenons, but that detail was an afterthought in this case.

Thanks.


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## AandCstyle (Mar 21, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Headboard , Locking Miter Joints*
> 
> Here is the queen bed project I am working on…
> 
> ...


Nice progress and it is looking great!


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## Ken90712 (Sep 2, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Headboard , Locking Miter Joints*
> 
> Here is the queen bed project I am working on…
> 
> ...


Great job and interesting post…. I'll be looking fwd to the next one. I'm making a Bridal Chest Arts & Crafts style that looks alot like this. They're plans from Bob Lang, the Corbles very similar to your stiles in the headboard.


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## HillbillyShooter (Feb 15, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Headboard , Locking Miter Joints*
> 
> Here is the queen bed project I am working on…
> 
> ...


Your lock miter joint (hollow) post have given me an idea and solves my quandary about how to construct the outside legs for a reloading bench I've been designing in my mind-thank.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*Headboard - Central Panel with Rodel Inspired Splat*

Here is the queen bed project I am working on…








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In my last entry I completed the locking miter joints that form the transition between the side panels and the central panel. 








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The central panel has two small floating panels, and a small mid-shelf. The opening near the top will receive a 7-part splat inspired by Kevin Rodel's arts and crafts dining chairs. 








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I route a groove in the spindles to receive the thin components of the splat. Notice the stop block for consistent length of cut. 








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Grooves complete. I will plane the mating stock to fit snugly in this groove. 








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Then I turn my attention to the thinner 1/2" components of the splat assembly. These parts receive notches to fit in the routed groove. 








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I knock off the small notch with a coping saw. This cut is not visible once the splat is assembled. 








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Here is how the splat components go together…








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Test fitting the splat reveals the three squares formed at the top of this detail. 








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I focus on aligning the components to a straightedge as I glue up the splat. 








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The splat assembly fits into mortises in the mid-shelf. 








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I make similar mortises in the top rail, and test fit the splat in the central panel. 








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An exploded view of the central panel components. The long tenons help align the assembly as it comes together. 








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Central panel glueup.








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Central panel installed. 








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The central panel rests on the lower shelf, and is simply screwed in place from the back of the headboard. I didn't have good access for clamps, so the screws were an easy alternative. 








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Here is what the splat detail looks like when it all comes together. 








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I cut a notch in the top rail for the wiring harness of the xenon low voltage light that will illuminate the central panel. 








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Next up will be the wedge and strap backsplash detail, and the corbels to support the mid-shelf. 
I leave you with the wisdom of the trees…


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## HillbillyShooter (Feb 15, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Headboard - Central Panel with Rodel Inspired Splat*
> 
> Here is the queen bed project I am working on…
> 
> ...


Great looking backboard, narrative and photographs. I'm looking forward to seeking the final product.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Headboard - Central Panel with Rodel Inspired Splat*
> 
> Here is the queen bed project I am working on…
> 
> ...


Thanks,
The design is a little more complicated than it needs to be. My wife really wanted a little shelf in the middle, and that added some extra steps.

Cheers


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## AandCstyle (Mar 21, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Headboard - Central Panel with Rodel Inspired Splat*
> 
> Here is the queen bed project I am working on…
> 
> ...


Willie, the squareness of shelf/splat detail provides an pleasant contrast to the wedges IMO. This detail will be the focal point of the headboard, especially with the lighting. Excellent design and, as always, craftsmanship.


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## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Headboard - Central Panel with Rodel Inspired Splat*
> 
> Here is the queen bed project I am working on…
> 
> ...


I'm a fan of details - this is turning out AWESOME!


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## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Headboard - Central Panel with Rodel Inspired Splat*
> 
> Here is the queen bed project I am working on…
> 
> ...


I really like the design Willie


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## Ken90712 (Sep 2, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Headboard - Central Panel with Rodel Inspired Splat*
> 
> Here is the queen bed project I am working on…
> 
> ...


So far so good, Love this bedroom set.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*Side Rails and Headboard Corbels*

Here is where I am currently at with the bed project. 








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The plans call for side rails 1-1/2" thick. The 8/4 at the lumberyard didn't look too good, some even sporting snipe 3/4" thick! So I decided to achieve the desired thickness by laminating 5/4 with 4/4 boards. 








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After milling the glueups flat and square, I wrestled them over the dado blade to create the tenons. My 8" dado set couldn't reach the entire shoulder, so there was considerable hand trimming with a saw and chisels. The tenons are offset to allow room for the bed bolts. 
Next I milled grooves in the upper rails to receive the plywood decking. 








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Test fitting the rails in the footboard. 








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Here is how the rails join the footboard. The groove is set towards the bottom of the rail, which will keep the mattress in place. 








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Now I turn my attention to the corbels that support the small shelf on the headboard. I start with 2-3/4" x 3-1/4" solid stock. 








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After cutting the curve with a 3/16" blade at the bandsaw, I sand the profile to the final shape. 








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Then I trim the corbel to length at the miter saw. I chamfered a small relief on the back corner of the corbel, which will allow the block to sit flush with the shelf. Notice how the chamfer stops at one corner. 








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Gluing corbels in place with a few clamps and spring sticks. 








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Corbels installed. The corbels are all the same size, however the middle stile is 1/4" wider than the side stiles. This is to maintain a consistent 1/4" reveal. 








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Headboard is complete, except for the wedge and strap backsplash. 








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I leave you with this final image… oak on oak. 









Next up should be constructing the side rail stiles for drawer openings, and perhaps the wedge and strap detail. 
Cheers!


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## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Side Rails and Headboard Corbels*
> 
> Here is where I am currently at with the bed project.
> 
> ...


Oooohh. That's coming along nicely Willie.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Side Rails and Headboard Corbels*
> 
> Here is where I am currently at with the bed project.
> 
> ...


Thanks Red. It is finally starting to look like a bed.


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## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Side Rails and Headboard Corbels*
> 
> Here is where I am currently at with the bed project.
> 
> ...


This just keeps getting better! Love the design.


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## jeffbranch (Feb 20, 2011)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Side Rails and Headboard Corbels*
> 
> Here is where I am currently at with the bed project.
> 
> ...


Super job. Looking awesome.


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## Ken90712 (Sep 2, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Side Rails and Headboard Corbels*
> 
> Here is where I am currently at with the bed project.
> 
> ...


The headboard is a work of art. Love the center and flow of this.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*Side Rail Arches, M & T, and Bed Bolts*

This is where we left things last time…

















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Now I need to cut mortises for the side rail assembly. The mortises are offset, to avoid intersecting the groove. 








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I cut grooves for the false drawer panels in the side rail assembly.








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With all the joinery cut, I can now cut arches on the lower rails. 








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Then I carefully layout hole locations for the bed bolts. The holes in the upper rails intersect the groove for the plywood base, however plenty of wood remains for a sturdy connection. 








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I laid out the hole locations, then transferred the centerline to the ends of the rail. This will assist with drilling the through holes that the bolts will pass through. 








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Next I test fit the false drawer panels.








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I installed the false panel in such a way that it sits flush with the rails. This will match the rest of the inset drawers. During glueup, I focused on keeping the ends flush to a straightedge. 








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Here is how the bed bolts attach to the headboard. The rails hang on large tenons, and are cinched in place with the bed bolts. I used 3/8" dowel center points to locate the hole in the legs. The instructions called for a 17/32" bit (not an easy bit to find). However on a test board, that proved to be too large of a hole for the threaded insert. A 1/2" bit worked just fine. 








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I ordered my bed bolts from Mcfeely's, because the pictures in the catalog show a curved washer. What arrived were flat washers. Rockler sells similar hardware, but the washers have slotted holes which may simplify installation. 








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Next up should be building the drawer box support.


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## HillbillyShooter (Feb 15, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Side Rail Arches, M & T, and Bed Bolts*
> 
> This is where we left things last time…
> 
> ...


You're making progress, and it's looking good.


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## FishMontana (Sep 14, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Side Rail Arches, M & T, and Bed Bolts*
> 
> This is where we left things last time…
> 
> ...


Looks real nice!


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## timd (Jul 21, 2013)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Side Rail Arches, M & T, and Bed Bolts*
> 
> This is where we left things last time…
> 
> ...


That's one beautiful bed. You put a lot of thought in laying everything out during the design stage. Fantastic craftsmanship. I can't wait to see the finished project


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## Handtooler (Jul 24, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Side Rail Arches, M & T, and Bed Bolts*
> 
> This is where we left things last time…
> 
> ...


You're certainly on track fo a grade of A++ on this course. Gonna complete your Post graduate degree for sure.


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## AandCstyle (Mar 21, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Side Rail Arches, M & T, and Bed Bolts*
> 
> This is where we left things last time…
> 
> ...


Willie, the flat washers from McFeelys is really curious. Yesterday I received curved washers from them in this connector set. Is this the one you ordered? The washers I got were slotted as well. The kit worked well although I used a 9/16" drill bit. I was afraid that 1/2" would have been too tight and might have split the 1.5" piece I was using. I am glad it worked for you.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Side Rail Arches, M & T, and Bed Bolts*
> 
> This is where we left things last time…
> 
> ...


Art,
Yes, that is the same connector set I ordered. My washers were flat, and were not slotted. I contacted McFeely's and they agreed to send me new sets, because the product did not match the catalog description. 
I'm sure it will be resolved soon.


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## AandCstyle (Mar 21, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Side Rail Arches, M & T, and Bed Bolts*
> 
> This is where we left things last time…
> 
> ...


Yeah, it must have been a package packing malfunction.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Side Rail Arches, M & T, and Bed Bolts*
> 
> This is where we left things last time…
> 
> ...


The second set of bed bolts I received from McFeely's had the curved, slotted washers. These kits included a larger threaded insert that would require a 17/32" hole. 
I'm glad I drilled a test hole, as the threaded inserts were a different size than my last order.


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## Ken90712 (Sep 2, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Side Rail Arches, M & T, and Bed Bolts*
> 
> This is where we left things last time…
> 
> ...


Great job love reading this one.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*Platform Support Boxes *

The platform support features ten plywood panels that transfer the load straight to the floor. One corner is knocked off, so it won't be visible under the arched sides of the bed. 








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My wife and I worked on assembly of the carcase. We started by gluing and screwing five panels to the side rail. The top of the panels are flush with the groove in the side rails.
A lower strip of plywood is then set into notches in the panels. 








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Then another strip fills the top notch in the panels. Strips are assembled with glue and brads initially, and reinforced with 1-1/2" screws. 








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The height of the lower strip is important, because it also functions as a ledge for mounting the drawer slides. I planned for the lower strip to be level with the drawer opening, which saved me some blocking material that you would normally use. 
Also note how the lower strip has been arched to make it less visible under the footboard. 








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I also trimmed several inches off the bottom of the panels near the footboard. This worked well visually, and didn't seem to compromise the strength of the box. 








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Here I used double panels to function as mounting locations for the drawer slides. 








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At this point the whole assembly feels quite strong, yet I don't feel like I have wasted any material. 








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I added some corner bracing for extra stability, which will also serve as anchor points for the plywood platform. A right angle clamp is useful while aligning the brace. 








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The corner braces are located on interior corners, so they won't interfere with tightening the bed bolts. 








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Next I make some plywood supports for the center section of the bed. The supports bear weight on the lower strip, and are simply screwed to the panels. The support near the double panel required an extra-long notch to fit it in the tight quarters. 








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3/4" Plywood decking slides into grooves in the side rails for a nice snug fit. These grooves support the edges of the decking, which is another way I saved on materials. 
Two long pieces of plywood running lengthwise form the decking-- one 45" wide, and the other narrower at approx. 16". This way the seam is supported by the top strip on the box. 








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A small notch around each headboard post allows the plywood to slide in place. 








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I held the decking back a few inches from the footboard. This will provide some space for tucking in the covers. 








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There will be two drawers on each side of the bed. The third bay is a false panel. 








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With the decking in place I counter bored and marked for threaded inserts with a pilot bit. Machine bolts will hold the plywood decking in place. 








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Next up will be the four drawers. Cheers!


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## Ken90712 (Sep 2, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Platform Support Boxes *
> 
> The platform support features ten plywood panels that transfer the load straight to the floor. One corner is knocked off, so it won't be visible under the arched sides of the bed.
> 
> ...


Love all the supports and details. its going to be rock solid.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*The Wedge and Strap Inlay*

Here is the bed project, which is nearing completion.








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A couple of headboard details remain, one of which is the wedge and strap detail. I tapered the backsplash, and glued the wedges on. Next I use carpet tape to attach the backsplash to a strip of plywood. This serves as a reference edge as I cut the dado for the walnut inlay. 








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I use a dado set and miter gauge to cut the shallow dado. I make sure to cut both ends of the backsplash before adjusting the fence. Normally one would cut dados before cutting tapers, however in this instance I found it better to reverse protocol. 








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I miter two pieces of walnut, and glue them in the dado. During the glueup, I concentrate on keeping the inlay flush with the bottom edge of the backsplash. 








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Wedge and strap inlay complete. It is designed to look like a wedge driven laterally into a leather strap. This detail matches several of my other pieces in this bedroom set. 








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Then the backsplash was glued with biscuits to the top of the headboard. 








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Then I use a pounding block to tap pegs into the legs of the headboard.








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The pounding block helps set the pegs at a consistent depth.








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Next up should be the drawer construction.


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## HillbillyShooter (Feb 15, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *The Wedge and Strap Inlay*
> 
> Here is the bed project, which is nearing completion.
> 
> ...


Great finishing details! Getting close to the final finishing ritual-enjoy!


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## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *The Wedge and Strap Inlay*
> 
> Here is the bed project, which is nearing completion.
> 
> ...


oooohhh…I like the pounding block idea


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## Ken90712 (Sep 2, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *The Wedge and Strap Inlay*
> 
> Here is the bed project, which is nearing completion.
> 
> ...


Love it…..


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*Dovetail Drawers*

Time to build drawers for the bed.








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I am using a P.C. jig to machine the dovetails. Everything is pretty standard, except the bit I use, which is a larger 14 degree dovetail bit from Rockler. I like to set up two routers - one with a 1/4" straight bit, and one with the dovetail bit. 








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I start by hogging out waste with the straight bit. 








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The second pass is with the 14 degree dovetail bit. 








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I find this two-pass method makes cleaner cuts, with less chance of the workpiece moving. 
One of the most important things to check when placing the workpieces in the jig-- that the faces are exactly flush on top. The finger template on the jig is supposed to align this automatically, however I find it best to set the pieces flush by hand. 








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Second pass complete.








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When test fitting, I aim for an easy friction fit. I like to be able to press the joint together by hand - no mallet required. 








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The 14 degree bit makes stronger, better looking dovetails than the stock Porter Cable 7 degree bit. 








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I only have four drawers to make, so this part of the project moves along pretty quickly. I cut grooves for the drawer bottoms at the table saw. 








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I number all the pieces before milling, which helps during drawer assembly.








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Aromatic cedar drawer bottoms are cut to size. 








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The drawers are test fit and sanded. 








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One drawer needed a quick touch with a block plane. 








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Then the drawer fronts are stained. I notice Jeff Jewitt advocates assembly first, then painting stain on the dovetails with an artist's brush. I find that oil based stain bleeds too easily for that technique, so I simply stain before assembly. 








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A single clamp to square the drawer is all that is needed during glueup. 








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Dovetail nirvana.


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## rexb (Mar 28, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Dovetail Drawers*
> 
> Time to build drawers for the bed.
> 
> ...


Great looking dovetails! That's gonna be one beautiful bed.


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## HillbillyShooter (Feb 15, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Dovetail Drawers*
> 
> Time to build drawers for the bed.
> 
> ...


Very nice job on the dovetails! Even though a lot of people may not care for any dovetail that is not hand cut, I enjoy using a jig (Leigh in my case). Also, I use two routers, one with a straight bit and another with the dovetail bit. I've tried a lot of tips that the Leigh literature provides but find the use of a front panel the best (would post a picture if I could browse and insert).


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## LKJR (Sep 10, 2013)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Dovetail Drawers*
> 
> Time to build drawers for the bed.
> 
> ...


Beautiful work, and a good write up to boot!


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## AandCstyle (Mar 21, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Dovetail Drawers*
> 
> Time to build drawers for the bed.
> 
> ...


DTs don't get much crisper than yours. More excellent work.


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## Ken90712 (Sep 2, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Dovetail Drawers*
> 
> Time to build drawers for the bed.
> 
> ...


Great idea adding drawers and like the rest of it top notch!


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*Stain, Lacquer, Hardware, and Lighting*

I stained and sprayed lacquer, and let the finish cure for 48 hours. Next I waxed the bed with Howard's Walnut Wax and #0000 steel wool. 
Then I turned my attention to mounting the drawer pulls. I use Scott Collins "no math" method for laying out the hole locations. Then I offset the holes 3/16" higher than the layout mark, because the threads on the pulls are off-center. I use a full-size jig to mount the four pulls. 








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Drawer pulls installed.








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I installed a xenon low voltage puck light behind the valance. 








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The wiring harness and transformer tuck neatly behind the headboard.








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I installed this nice little rocker switch from Rockler. It required a 13/16" Forstner bit. First a 17/32" bit for the bed bolts, and now a 13/16" bit for the switch? Just plan on two extra trips to the hardware store, because I can guarantee you don't have those sizes. 








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Two bed bolts on each leg secure mortise and tenon joints. I sourced my hardware from McFeely's. 








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Cross-supports are added to connect the two drawer boxes. The cross-supports (red arrows) bear weight on the lower plywood strip. 
Notice how the back edge of the drawer slides rest on the lower plywood strip (blue arrow). This helped to simplify drawer slide installation. 








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Plywood decking is added. Two pieces of 3/4" plywood run lengthwise, and slip into grooves in the side rails. The decking is secured with machine bolts and threaded inserts. 








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A bit of notching is required to fit the decking around the post and bed bolts. The bed bolts are a bit tricky to install, but the curved/slotted washers help. In the end, it produces an extremely strong and secure joint. 









That about wraps it up for the bedroom set, although I may add a rocking chair …hmm… 
Cheers!
The completed project page is here… http://lumberjocks.com/projects/89923#comment-1681205


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## GrandpaLen (Mar 6, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Stain, Lacquer, Hardware, and Lighting*
> 
> I stained and sprayed lacquer, and let the finish cure for 48 hours. Next I waxed the bed with Howard's Walnut Wax and #0000 steel wool.
> Then I turned my attention to mounting the drawer pulls. I use Scott Collins "no math" method for laying out the hole locations. Then I offset the holes 3/16" higher than the layout mark, because the threads on the pulls are off-center. I use a full-size jig to mount the four pulls.
> ...


That's a Beautiful Bedroom Set, stellar Craftsmanship.

Very nice Fit and Finish.

Best Regards. - Grandpa Len.

Work Safely and have Fun.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Stain, Lacquer, Hardware, and Lighting*
> 
> I stained and sprayed lacquer, and let the finish cure for 48 hours. Next I waxed the bed with Howard's Walnut Wax and #0000 steel wool.
> Then I turned my attention to mounting the drawer pulls. I use Scott Collins "no math" method for laying out the hole locations. Then I offset the holes 3/16" higher than the layout mark, because the threads on the pulls are off-center. I use a full-size jig to mount the four pulls.
> ...


Thanks for the kind words Len.


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## AandCstyle (Mar 21, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Stain, Lacquer, Hardware, and Lighting*
> 
> I stained and sprayed lacquer, and let the finish cure for 48 hours. Next I waxed the bed with Howard's Walnut Wax and #0000 steel wool.
> Then I turned my attention to mounting the drawer pulls. I use Scott Collins "no math" method for laying out the hole locations. Then I offset the holes 3/16" higher than the layout mark, because the threads on the pulls are off-center. I use a full-size jig to mount the four pulls.
> ...


Willie, another outstanding project. The bed is amazingly complex and your execution appears to be flawless. Take some time to celebrate before you start your next masterpiece.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Stain, Lacquer, Hardware, and Lighting*
> 
> I stained and sprayed lacquer, and let the finish cure for 48 hours. Next I waxed the bed with Howard's Walnut Wax and #0000 steel wool.
> Then I turned my attention to mounting the drawer pulls. I use Scott Collins "no math" method for laying out the hole locations. Then I offset the holes 3/16" higher than the layout mark, because the threads on the pulls are off-center. I use a full-size jig to mount the four pulls.
> ...


That's the best advise I've heard all month.
Thanks Art!


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## Ken90712 (Sep 2, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Stain, Lacquer, Hardware, and Lighting*
> 
> I stained and sprayed lacquer, and let the finish cure for 48 hours. Next I waxed the bed with Howard's Walnut Wax and #0000 steel wool.
> Then I turned my attention to mounting the drawer pulls. I use Scott Collins "no math" method for laying out the hole locations. Then I offset the holes 3/16" higher than the layout mark, because the threads on the pulls are off-center. I use a full-size jig to mount the four pulls.
> ...


What a great bedroom set one to be proud of no doubt!


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