# Best way to hide plywood core on a beveled edge



## beekman001 (Nov 1, 2017)

I'm a wardrobe out of 3/4" walnut faced plywood. Going through my plans I'm not sure how to hide the plywood core of the beveled edges on the front. Edge banding seems to be out of the question as the bevel on the front edge will be well over 1".

The two options I'm considering are :


ripping thin strips of hardwood beveled at the same the same angle as the front edge and gluing those on after ripping the bevel on the face


Gluing on thicker strips of hardwood (~1 1/4") and then ripping the bevel out of that

Are there any options I haven't considered here?


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## Firewood (Dec 4, 2013)

They do have edge banding in 2" widths. Like thishttps://www.woodcraft.com/products/walnut-2-x-25-edge-banding?via=573621f469702d06760016d0%2C5764232869702d6593003338%2C5789289169702d5112000061


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

Color matching solid wood banding on
the outside edge may present challenges.
Walnut ply in particular tends to take 
stains differently than solid walnut, I think
due to glue beneath the veneer inhibiting
stain penetration. That's an issue I
recommend you plan for. Beveling the
plywood edge and applying a thin banding
to the bevel presents other challenges
as it will be difficult to clamp it and without
good pressure the glue line on the outside
edge may not look so good.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

I think I would cut the bevel off, and glue on enough solid wood that the bevel could be cut into it.


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## beekman001 (Nov 1, 2017)

Firewood,

When I'm cutting the side-miters what options do I have for preventing tear-out on the edge banding? One of the big reasons my gut reaction was to go with thicker hardwood edging is that it would be more resistant to bad tear-out along the mitered corner.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

You can buy coiled wood edgebanding up to 
3mm thick. Dimensioning strips down to 3mm
or thinner yourself would be difficult without
a thickness sander.

It may be difficult to buy in smaller amounts.

http://www.tapeease.com/thick.htm


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## PPK (Mar 8, 2016)

> I think I would cut the bevel off, and glue on enough solid wood that the bevel could be cut into it.
> 
> - Fred Hargis


I like your thinking. This seems like a good option. But I'd also look into edge banding. Its a lot easier.


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## DS (Oct 10, 2011)

Having been on the mass-production side of just such a wardrobe, I can say that we typically would have a solid face pre-molded in S4S then affixed to the assembled carcass.

Plywoods and solids would be selected from the same mill so as to ensure decent color match. (Volume purchase)
Even though it is Walnut, a Walnut stain can level out and forgive many mismatches as well.


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## cabmaker (Sep 16, 2010)

heres how i would do it,,,,,,,,, grizzly items,,,,,, C2013 and C2087


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

For wood that is to be finished I use hardwood edging!
Sometimes even "T" shape hardwood edges routed and sanded to hide the joint!
For wood that will be painted I use filler or spackle. 
Once the spackle is sanded it is smoother than the plywood and takes to painting!


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

I think glueing on a thicker piece of wood and then beveling that is the best way to go. I have never been happy with edge banding tapes. The adhesive doesn't seem to stay stuck. Contact cement is much better as it has a stronger bond.


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

Back in the day before iron on edging and such my dad would cut the veneer off the plywood and then glue it back on the edges for a perfect match.


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## beekman001 (Nov 1, 2017)

> Back in the day before iron on edging and such my dad would cut the veneer off the plywood and then glue it back on the edges for a perfect match.
> 
> - AlaskaGuy


Any guidance on how? Not that I'll be doing that for this project but I'd love to try.


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

> Back in the day before iron on edging and such my dad would cut the veneer off the plywood and then glue it back on the edges for a perfect match.
> 
> - AlaskaGuy
> 
> ...


Rip a piece of plywood the the width you need, pay attention to the grain direction. Now turn the rip on edge saw off the veneer on you table saw.


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## newwoodbutcher (Aug 6, 2010)

Here is an idea, it's cherry plywood in the field, top and bottom trimmed in hardwood, and you can't really see the beveled and metered joints in this picture but,... it's plywood. perhaps you could turn the corner on your project and just hide the edge out of sight?


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## DS (Oct 10, 2011)

Something like this mid-century modern dresser, I suppose?


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