# A true newbie at this



## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Never have had a scrollsaw. Past weekend, stumbled over one. ASked the price from the person running the Yard sale…..." $10"

Ok, gave her the ten spot, and picked up a surpricingly HEAVY scrollsaw. It still had a blade in it, too. Table was brown coloured….from rust. Palm sander and some 22o grit got it clened up and shiny. Plugged it in, flipped the switch…...it ran like new. I had just sitting on my workbench loosely, Saw never even tried to move around.

Now, all that being said, what can anyone tell me about a Craftsman 13" scrollsaw, with a tilting table, that uses pin type blades. Never have had one before, need to find out what I can about it.

Pictures would help, right?









Sitting with the rest of the Yard Sale booty









with it's cast iron base sitting on my bench









Since this didn't have a manual, what size of blades do I look for? This uses the ones with pins, like a coping saw. Hey for $10 and it runs?????


----------



## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

I don't have any real experience with scrollsaws or scrolling, so all I can offer is….
You may be able to do an internet search for the manual.


----------



## S4S (Jan 22, 2011)

Use the same length blade that is in the saw now . More TPI for thinner wood . Less TPI for thicker wood , just 
like the coping saw ,.....you know the drill . Nice price for a starter saw , ...have fun .


----------



## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

bandit571-For blades, just head to your local big box, and buy standard pinned scroll saw blades (they will probably be selling Olson blades).

They will likely have several to choose from, depending on the material you are going to cut and the finish you expect.


----------



## Buckethead (Apr 14, 2013)

That's a nice ten dollar scroll saw!


----------



## Sawdustmaker115 (Sep 8, 2013)

Can you tell what the make and model is and ill look it up for you, i think the standard legth of blade for scrollsaws are around 5" if you have any questions on were to get them or what size to get i can help you and i have loads of pattern s so if your looking for some simple starter patters i think i can help you out. Here's http://www.dndsawbladesonline.com/ were i buy all my scroll blades


----------



## jerrells (Jul 3, 2010)

The only thing about a saw that required pin type blades is that you will need to drill a little larger blade entry holds for inside cuts.


----------



## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

I had another thought…
OK, I had *A* thought!!!

However, without a model number I can't research it….
There may be a way to convert this saw to use a "pinless" blade.
I've heard of it being done, but not sure if it is applicable to your saw.

Just a thought….


----------



## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

model number: 113.236270

Sears Craftsman Direct drive 13'' tilting table scrollsaw.

Tried it out a bit tonight. Cutting some corner blocks for a table build. This thing is tough to follow a line with, nothing to blow away the sawdust to see the lines. Have to really hold the piece down, as it wants to hop around a bit. Might be a dull blade, might be too thick aboard. 5/8" thick Poplar









This might be interesting….


----------



## Finn (May 26, 2010)

If the wood jumps up a lot you may have the blade in up-side-down. Some downward pressure is required on most scroll saws though. There are conversion kits to change to pinless blades. I strongly suggest you do this. Most blades in use today are pinless blades and they are better and cheaper. Wondering off the cut line can be caused by not enough tension on the blade. You should hear a "ping" when you pluck a properly tensioned scroll saw blade.


----------



## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

I just got one of those recently. For free. They even gave me one of those crap buck brothers smoothing planes just to get me to take the scroll saw. Sorry about stealing your thunder.

(I am a horrible liar


----------



## S4S (Jan 22, 2011)

Looks like you are up and running , ....way to go bandit !


----------



## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

I tried to find the manual online….NO luck! ;^(
eRplacementparts does have parts though, that's promising! ;^)
Conversion kit, for a *16" saw* is $20.00 to $30.00, Hmmm saw = $10.00! %^{

Try out this saw, with new sharp blades….
It may serve your needs. If not….UPGRADE!!!


----------



## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

For that price, and it runs … what a deal!


----------



## PaulDoug (Sep 26, 2013)

One if the hardest things to do on a scroll saw is cut a straight line. Not really what they are designed for.

For something to blow the dust as you cut get a pretty cheap aquarium air pump and some flexible hose.


----------



## SCOTSMAN (Aug 1, 2008)

Yes I too understand you can alter it to take pinless blades which are as I understand it also are usually preferable.I wish you a lot of fun with your newest addition to your woodshop.Alistair


----------



## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

I am on the "DL" at the moment, not much cash coming in. I may have to find a supply of thin lumber to try this out on, There are a few fancy shelf supports i'd like to try. For the next couple weeks, all I have is time. Time to play around on this new saw, and learn all about it.

Then, once I get back to work, maybe a few upgrades, like new blades??


----------



## Kenbilt (Jun 26, 2014)

Nice saw! I love when I find a deal.


----------



## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

Geeze… 17 responses and NO ONE HAS SAID IT ?? So I'll be the one to give you the big

*YOU SUCK!*

You're welcome!


----------



## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Thanks, Joe

Went out and got a variety pack of blades for the saw. Maybe after the bench gets cleared off, I can try a few out. 5" Pinned blades, three different tooth patterns. Olsons, I think…#49501


----------



## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

Congratulations. I don't think most woodworkers would mind paying 10 bucks for that at all.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


----------



## cdaniels (Apr 16, 2014)

i would highly you suggest getting a conversion kit to use pinless blades. reason being is most new saws don't use them so the demand will start to die down and it will be harder to find them. also with pinless blades if your doing very small fretwork which is inside cuts of detail than you have to use a very small width blade and a very small drillbit (usually 1/16") just a bit of advice if you like. Sheila Landry (scrollsawgirl) is a very sweet woman and she's one of the most experienced that I know of. she has her own business for scrollsawing so look her up. (Hi Sheila)


----------



## Tenfingers58 (Jan 25, 2011)

I get free thin wood and ply wood almost every garbage day. Check out the dressers out on the curb. The oldest dressers have hardwood drawer sides and bottoms, the merely old ones are plywood (usually good grade though).

You're better off leaving the newer stuff with partical board sides and cardboard bottoms. The partical board isn't terrible but it dulls blades fast because you are really cutting more glue than wood.

For the most part I just take the drawers. I usually don't have much use for the carcasses.


----------

