# Plain old wood oil



## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

I'm looking for a plain wood oil that doesn't have any hardeners in it. Just oil.

I want to try it on my shou sugi ban furniture. Been using tung oil and tugn/danish oil for a bit of color. 
I would like to try and keep the furniture as light colored as possible, I know that's impossible with shou sugi ban, but I don't want them looking ebony.

Anyone know of a good plain old wood oil? No color.


----------



## mrbob (Nov 3, 2016)

How about Linseed Oil?


----------



## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

+1 for boiled linseed oil


----------



## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

Linseed oil tends to further darken. It must be some kind of chemical burn. 
In fact, BLO has pretty much ruined anything I've put it on, which is why I've been using a lighter oil like Danish oil.


----------



## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

Try plain old mineral oil … I use a combination of of bee's wax and mineral to clean my wooden planes; also an oil wicke of mineral oil to oil planes and saws … this has not "damaged" any wood to date.










I also use almond oil on my wooden fifes!


----------



## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

I agree with Ron about the mineral oil. It's about as clear as it gets.


----------



## SignWave (Feb 2, 2010)

My understanding is that BLO has dryers.

For a non-coloring, non-drying oil, mineral oil comes to mind. You can buy it at any drug store.


----------



## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

I might have some mineral oil lying around the shop. 
As I remember, it was thick. 
Can it be cut with mineral spirits?
What would be best to thin mineral oil?


----------



## JayCee123 (Apr 22, 2016)

Mineral oils not that thick, especially once you start working it into the wood. Mineral spirits or turpentine can be readily mix with mineral oil. Mineral oil is water clear, turps is slightly amber. If you want a slight bit of amber add a little paraffin oil, the stuff you use for rubbing out finishes. Respectfully, does it make that much difference to your project? Do you remove that much of the charred surface?


----------



## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

I don't think you'll be happy with mineral spirits, it looks good going on but a week later it'll look like you didn't do anything. I would suggest wax. Paraffin is probably the most neutral but you'll have to melt it, possibly thin it. Beeswax might work for you.


----------



## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

> I don t think you ll be happy with mineral spirits, it looks good going on but a week later it ll look like you didn t do anything. I would suggest wax. Paraffin is probably the most neutral but you ll have to melt it, possibly thin it. Beeswax might work for you.
> 
> - Rick M


I'm with you, but the OP was so specific about "plain oil," that I skipped suggesting anything else.

Honestly, if you want a beautiful finish, go with Tried & True Original Wood Finish. It's polymerized linseed oil and beeswax. The results are amazing.


----------



## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

I meant mineral oil. Brain fart.


----------



## newwoodbutcher (Aug 6, 2010)

I don't understand why there isn't more discussion about Liberon furniture oil. I use it on black Walnut and Mahogany with fantastic results. 
It's not cheap but well worth it imop


----------



## pontic (Sep 25, 2016)

Do like the Japanese do bleach it first then use BLO or BTO.


----------



## Wildwood (Jul 22, 2012)

Only experience have with any wood burning are all those plywood hooch's stayed in Vietnam. Think from the smell used kerosene as the final finish in-out side. Not sure who built, burnt, or finished inside those hooch's.

From everything read about "SHOO-SUGI-BAN", wood either unfinished or coated with natural oils. While Japanese used specific species of woods no word on type of oil other than natural oils.

If don't want wood to look like ebony refine your burning, cleaning technique and leave unfinished or use a natural oil. Don't actually know if Shoo-Sugi-Ban treated wood will darken with age when expose to UV rays. Natural oils can be drying normally used as wood finishes like Linseed, Tung, and Walnut oil. The only drying oil that affords any protection from water or moisture is Tung Oil if apply enough coats. There are other drying oils too just too many to list same is true of non-drying, or semi drying you could use.

Mineral oil (petroleum base) is a not drying oil finish I use for anything make for food safe knowing has to re-coated with use & time. Have no doubt would work on a Shoo-Sugi-Ban project in or outside as long as re-apply as needed.


----------



## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Maybe you should try the newest fad, soap.


----------



## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

Have you ever thought about using thermo treated wood? 
I think it would give you all the properties shoo-sugi-ban gives you (probably better) and the lighter color your after.

To give you an idea of color, here is a piece of thermo treated poplar next to untreated natural poplar.


----------



## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

http://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/ll48500/?inMed=GSTORE&dfw_tracker=18711-ll48500&gclid=CNfZjYaxvdMCFY9afgod8RANCg

Liberon furniture oil must be good stuff, it's banned in 17 states.


----------



## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

I've ordered some tung oil from a place called Milk Paint. I would like to use pure, but if it's too thick, I will order some citrus oil which is the proper thing to thin it. 
I know some of you use mineral spirits because it says to on the can, but that's only because you don't really have tung oil, you have basically a low grade wiping varnish calling itself tung oil, read the ingredients. 
If you want real tung oil, Amazon has it under the Milk Paint brand. $22 a quart.

Real tung oil is cut with citrus oil.


----------



## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

> I ve ordered some tung oil from a place called Milk Paint. I would like to use pure, but if it s too thick, I will order some citrus oil which is the proper thing to thin it.
> I know some of you use mineral spirits because it says to on the can, but that s only because you don t really have tung oil, you have basically a low grade wiping varnish calling itself tung oil, read the ingredients.
> If you want real tung oil, Amazon has it under the Milk Paint brand. $22 a quart.
> 
> ...


There's a store that sells Milk Paint products here in town. I've used the exact products you are referring to, and I found that a 50/50 mix of tung oil and citrus solvent works well. The tung oil alone is too thick for my liking. Quality stuff though.

I didn't mention it originally, because it will darken the wood to a certain extent. That's why I recommended the Tried & True product.


----------



## RJL73 (Apr 21, 2017)

Russell has an important point- it darkens wood, especially over time. Leaving the item in a dark room will darken the oil even further. I would look up the individual oils that comprise Festool's SURFIX finish. There are 3 or four very refined oils in it, no VOC's and the thinner the oil the deeper it penetrates. Good luck with it..


> Linseed oil tends to further darken. It must be some kind of chemical burn.
> In fact, BLO has pretty much ruined anything I ve put it on, which is why I ve been using a lighter oil like Danish oil.
> 
> - RussellAP


----------



## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

RJL73- I'm sure gonna miss this runny stuff. I might not use the tung oil after all, it would need subsequent treatments and I'm sure customers wont use the right stuff. Maybe I can sell a contract to come back every spring and re apply. Another way to boost income. 
I ran out of the tung oil finish I was using, so I got some olympic fence and deck treatment. It's runny like mineral spirits, of which I'm sure there are a lot of in it. But it covers easy peasy and don't care if you put it on with a rag, brush or beaver tail. In fact if I had a vat big enough, I'd just put a couple inches of this stuff in it and dip the board completely. After you burn that cedar it gets thirsty.


----------



## builtinbkyn (Oct 29, 2015)

I know you asked for an oil, but clear water based finish will not change the color much if at all. Satin would keep things looking natural.


----------



## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

Waho6o9- It would take an apparatus to toast wood like that. I have to work outside when working with fire and keep a neat work area, but it's a pretty quick process with a torch, plus you need to have the char to make the chairs last. I'm afraid the oven I'd need to toast wood would be an eyesore in my driveway because I simply have no room in the shop for another thing. Not even a broom, and I really need a broom.


----------



## oldsailor59 (Mar 22, 2017)

i use mineral oil mixed with white beeswax(what I use is about 50/50 by weight) combine in a double boiler until wax is melted. it is the least darkening finish I have found other than water based polyurethane


----------



## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

Oldsailor59- That's not really a finish, it's aconditioner that would wear off in weeks outside.

I do use that mix on cutting boards though. Its good for cutting boards because you can reapply it without much problem. If you were to use a poly, you'd have to re-sand before using it.

On these chairs the whole thing is the burning and char, you want to put something on it to hold that char in but not completely cover it up. That's what makes it outlast anything store bought. However any oil you put on has to be reapplied annually.


----------



## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

> Waho6o9- It would take an apparatus to toast wood like that. I have to work outside when working with fire and keep a neat work area, but it s a pretty quick process with a torch, plus you need to have the char to make the chairs last. I m afraid the oven I d need to toast wood would be an eyesore in my driveway because I simply have no room in the shop for another thing. Not even a broom, and I really need a broom.
> 
> - RussellAP


Russell, You buy the wood already thermo treated. It's better than anything you are doing with a torch.

*Read the link!* 
http://www.thermotreatedwood.com/what.html

It would also save you a bunch of labor.
If you don't even entertain the idea, how will you grow?


----------



## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

jbay- I did read it, but I'm a hands on guy. I doubt I could get it anywhere near the price of the cedar Im using now… which is going up up up. 
Here in Kansas city, we don't have much choice of material unless you want to buy a quantity, then I'd have to figure out where to store it and it would be exposed to weather. I love Lowes because it's close by and I can get just what I need.


----------



## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

> jbay- I did read it, but I m a hands on guy. I doubt I could get it anywhere near the price of the cedar Im using now… which is going up up up.
> Here in Kansas city, we don t have much choice of material unless you want to buy a quantity, then I d have to figure out where to store it and it would be exposed to weather. I love Lowes because it s close by and I can get just what I need.
> 
> - RussellAP


More power to ya!
Good Luck

(I have a feeling I could bring you the wood and you would still have some excuse)


----------



## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

Needs clarification - do you want a hardening oil or not. If you do, stay with "pure" or "100%" tung oil. Otherwise you're just getting linseed oil which, as others stated, will darken the wood.

The recommendation for walnut oil is good too. It will take a LOT longer to harden than linseed oil. You can buy hardeners to add to the tung oil or walnut oil to drop harding time to about a day or two.

Of course, mineral oil will just keep wicking deeper into the wood and you'll have to keep adding, since it's a non-hardening oil. In time, it will need less and less frequent touch ups.

_
You can thin tung oil with limonine or turpentine or paint thinner or… If it mixes it's fair game. It gasses off, though the turpentine can add to the finish.

I used to pay fifteen a gallon for limonine and about thirty four for pure tung oil to a place out of Winthrop, Washington, but I fear they've gone out of business. Sad, it was VERY good stuff and they shipped quick


----------



## builtinbkyn (Oct 29, 2015)

I had no idea what shou sugi ban was until googling it and doing a bit of reading. The method of charring wood was used for siding and exterior use on structures. The charring was done to form a natural preservative against moisture and rot. I guess the use of it in furniture is a western convention because of the unusual look it provides.

I haven't found any specifics on the type of oil used traditionally, but suspect it was from plants such as palm or coconut. One site shousugiban.com recommends Penofin.


----------



## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

> jbay- I did read it, but I m a hands on guy. I doubt I could get it anywhere near the price of the cedar Im using now… which is going up up up.
> Here in Kansas city, we don t have much choice of material unless you want to buy a quantity, then I d have to figure out where to store it and it would be exposed to weather. I love Lowes because it s close by and I can get just what I need.
> 
> - RussellAP
> ...


It's fun around here. But, jbay, thanks for that link. Interesting stuff I didn't know anything about before, but it's good to have things like that in your back pocket for when you need them.


----------



## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

With a bit of thought about what's been said, the answer to the question of the type of oil needed is clear - you need a hardening oil.

Don't forget, if it mixes, it's fair game. More specifically, you can add, for example, poly to your linseed oil or tung oil to up the durability. Of course, you can toss in a thinner for deeper penetration.


----------

