# Workshop operational tips.



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

*3D Printing in the Workshop*

While this topic doesn't strictly fit into the guidelines of timber product, it does incorporate the processing of said prerequisite, however, to err on the side of veto wizards I decided to blog instead of projecting it.























































We need to set the mood!

Once upon a time there was this aging geriatric, living in Churchill Australia that was getting paranoid about *dust inhalation *into his alcohol infested body. He chose to purchase a *Shop-Vac *and attached a few tools to with the deft application of copious reels of duct tape… *and all was good*. As the tools began to breed like rabbits, the old man realised that he may need to invest in another Shop-Vac (or look alike). He purchased a 2.5" "shop-vac" rated the same hose dimension as his previous one and was hoping for integrated compliance. Glory be… why is *2.5"* in "*Shop-Vac*" speak different in size to the* 2.5"* in "*Hitachi*" speak. More duct tape and frustration attempting to integrate… *and all was NOT good*.

I'm sure this is not a rare tale of Robinson Crusoe (mis-located in Churchill), as I am certain most of us can relate to this chagrin.

Whilst pursuing the gratification of attending one of our local wood shows, several years ago, there was this revolutionary stand selling 3D printers. While the interest was *huge*, the sales was *little huge*. Somehow I had the insight to contemplate the use of 3D printed items in a workshop and I bit the bullet, fired a few shots and proceeded to procure one. much to the missus's sacrifice of another pair of shoes… she has expensive shoes (I dare not say big feet). My immediate though was about shop-vac integration through customised couplings. Well I was* not *disappointed.

I now do not fear dust extraction compatibility with any tool I possess and at times scrap the proprietary supplied adapter for a shop made (3D printed) customised one.

While 3D printed paraphernalia can be used throughout the house I have tried to limit my contribution to items I have created for the workshop. Rather than clutter this blog with a myriad of photographic illustrations, I have created the following post-Christmas "STOCKING FILLER" to highlight what I have blundered across for use in the workshop (be warned… there are 90+ pickies in the PDF… guaranteed cure for insomnia).

Now for a touch of woodworking. You can (as I have) create many of these items on a lathe, however, repeatability is not a push button on that skew chisel. I can churn off as many 3D's as I like and all the same… I often disguise some with different colours just to confuse myself.

I hope I can get some people's creative juices flowing, as not all workshop creations are made of wood… especially regarding workshop aids.

Thanks for taking the time to get this far!


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## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *3D Printing in the Workshop*
> 
> While this topic doesn't strictly fit into the guidelines of timber product, it does incorporate the processing of said prerequisite, however, to err on the side of veto wizards I decided to blog instead of projecting it.
> 
> ...


You heaps cleverer than this little black bird, ducky….

Took me ages to make adapters to fit things, well doing using new technology to do it quicker, easier and looking so much smarter and professional


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *3D Printing in the Workshop*
> 
> While this topic doesn't strictly fit into the guidelines of timber product, it does incorporate the processing of said prerequisite, however, to err on the side of veto wizards I decided to blog instead of projecting it.
> 
> ...


An entertaining and very interesting blog.

How long does it take to print a part?

What brand printer did you get and the cost?


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *3D Printing in the Workshop*
> 
> While this topic doesn't strictly fit into the guidelines of timber product, it does incorporate the processing of said prerequisite, however, to err on the side of veto wizards I decided to blog instead of projecting it.
> 
> ...


Hi *Redaok49*, screen dump from one of the pictured couplers.








Time for the print was 2:13, and the material cost would be about $0.50c (Aust). I was printing at high density to ensure greater strength. For longer prints I just let it go overnight (and hope I don't run out of filament which is only a "non-planning ahead" issue).
My first 3D printer was a UP Plus2 printer which I picked up at a greatly reduced rate of $1,200 with about $400 worth of filament (as a promotional sale at one of our local wood shows). Probably much cheaper in Yankee-land and greater selection. My 2nd. printer is a UP Box which was a bit dearer, however, it nearly had double the print capacity (which I still haven't exploited after 18 months)... meaning the Up Plus2 would have satisfied all of my needs (remembering that parts can be glued together).

Only downside is you need to know some sort of CAD programming to make the designs. Fortunately I was conversant with SketcUp and when the salesman told me that SketchUp can be used to design models he sealed an immediate sale.

Bottom line… you can get them much cheaper now, however, even at my cost (including the "extravagance" of the UP Box) they have paid for themselves or at least looking at just a small change difference.


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## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *3D Printing in the Workshop*
> 
> While this topic doesn't strictly fit into the guidelines of timber product, it does incorporate the processing of said prerequisite, however, to err on the side of veto wizards I decided to blog instead of projecting it.
> 
> ...


Pretty cool, I could find a bunch of uses for a new toy like that !

But I'm curious at this statement… *"which I picked up at a greatly reduced rate of $1,200"*

How much is that in *REAL *money? (AKA: what's the exchange rate to US dollars?) 
.


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *3D Printing in the Workshop*
> 
> While this topic doesn't strictly fit into the guidelines of timber product, it does incorporate the processing of said prerequisite, however, to err on the side of veto wizards I decided to blog instead of projecting it.
> 
> ...





> But I m curious at this statement… *"which I picked up at a greatly reduced rate of $1,200"*
> 
> How much is that in *REAL *money? (AKA: what s the exchange rate to US dollars?)
> 
> - JoeinGa


I believe it was around $1,800 RRP about 3 years ago.
This is the company I bought it off in Australia at current rates (improved model). At roughly .70c in the dollar conversion… well you do the sums… I only have 10 fingers.

If you are anywhere engineering inclined, there are numerous blogs on build-your-own-3D for a couple of hundred dollars. I have 2 left feet at the end of my arms so I chose to buy (and I hate reading… instructions to build).

Yes it is a great toy with countless possibilities, however, it is practical… I have replicated many, and I mean many kitchen parts that were the victim of a *man-out-of-his-element-in-that-dark-environment-called-a-kitchen*.

I have also dabbled in remote controlled boys toys… and have found it great to replicate those fragile little pieces that break so easily when you get a bunch of guys together over a slab of beer.

Alternatively I could always leave my money to my kids to waste on stupid things like 3D printers…


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## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *3D Printing in the Workshop*
> 
> While this topic doesn't strictly fit into the guidelines of timber product, it does incorporate the processing of said prerequisite, however, to err on the side of veto wizards I decided to blog instead of projecting it.
> 
> ...


QUOTE : fired a few shots and proceeded to procure one. much to the missus's sacrifice of another pair of shoes… she has expensive shoes (I dare not say big feet).

hey ducky why don't you just print her out some shoes ….OR they will no fit in machine …..LOL :<))


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *3D Printing in the Workshop*
> 
> While this topic doesn't strictly fit into the guidelines of timber product, it does incorporate the processing of said prerequisite, however, to err on the side of veto wizards I decided to blog instead of projecting it.
> 
> ...





> ......
> hey ducky why don t you just print her out some shoes ….OR they will no fit in machine …..LOL :<))
> 
> - GR8HUNTER


Considered it… But haven't got a design for steel capped, high-heeled, hob-nail army boots…

Now why'd I say that… I'll be on a diet of dog food for the next week!


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## vince805 (Feb 2, 2017)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *3D Printing in the Workshop*
> 
> While this topic doesn't strictly fit into the guidelines of timber product, it does incorporate the processing of said prerequisite, however, to err on the side of veto wizards I decided to blog instead of projecting it.
> 
> ...


Nice job! I am new to woodworking but have been 3d printing for a while now… I have already been thinking of what I could print while I am planning my shop (1/2 of the garage) layout. Will definitely need to make some of those hose attachments you have!


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *3D Printing in the Workshop*
> 
> While this topic doesn't strictly fit into the guidelines of timber product, it does incorporate the processing of said prerequisite, however, to err on the side of veto wizards I decided to blog instead of projecting it.
> 
> ...





> ...but have been 3d printing for a while now…
> 
> - vince805


Hi *Vince805*, FAIW if you haven't already, take the liberty to check out the *"STOCKING FILLER"* link above in the blog. It may give you some additional gadgetry ideas. There's quite a few pickies to wade through, but armed with a beer (or two) I could think of many "more depressing activities".


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## Pjonesy (Feb 20, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *3D Printing in the Workshop*
> 
> While this topic doesn't strictly fit into the guidelines of timber product, it does incorporate the processing of said prerequisite, however, to err on the side of veto wizards I decided to blog instead of projecting it.
> 
> ...


Brilliant idea LBD. I am so into breathing in saw dust that I still don't have an extractor system. I just open the front and back doors and let the wind whisk it away.
Seriously though I should get a dust extractor, it could save a lot of nose picking.
Love the story as well.
Keep up the good work.


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *3D Printing in the Workshop*
> 
> While this topic doesn't strictly fit into the guidelines of timber product, it does incorporate the processing of said prerequisite, however, to err on the side of veto wizards I decided to blog instead of projecting it.
> 
> ...





> ....
> Love the story as well.
> ....
> 
> - Pjonesy


Thanks *Pj*, I have found that thee are *sooo* many great builds/projects here at LJ, it's my story (or as the missus calls it - BS) that makes it presentable.


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *3D Printing in the Workshop*
> 
> While this topic doesn't strictly fit into the guidelines of timber product, it does incorporate the processing of said prerequisite, however, to err on the side of veto wizards I decided to blog instead of projecting it.
> 
> ...





> How much is that in *REAL *money? (AKA: what s the exchange rate to US dollars?)
> .
> 
> 
> ...


How did I overlook this?


> ?


?

*MUCH* cheaper than raising an inquisitive baby!!!


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *3D Printing in the Workshop*
> 
> While this topic doesn't strictly fit into the guidelines of timber product, it does incorporate the processing of said prerequisite, however, to err on the side of veto wizards I decided to blog instead of projecting it.
> 
> ...


Sniffle Snuffle Snort LBD I had to get the Kleenex out reading your post.

Add the pictures of JoeinGa's childhood development pondering the questions of life and it all makes a very emotional story.


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *3D Printing in the Workshop*
> 
> While this topic doesn't strictly fit into the guidelines of timber product, it does incorporate the processing of said prerequisite, however, to err on the side of veto wizards I decided to blog instead of projecting it.
> 
> ...





> Sniffle Snuffle Snort LBD I had to get the Kleenex out reading your post.
> 
> - robscastle


If you needed the Kleenex for this *robsc'*, you should read the story of how I acquired my laser… you'll need towels to sop up the mess!


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *3D Printing in the Workshop*
> 
> While this topic doesn't strictly fit into the guidelines of timber product, it does incorporate the processing of said prerequisite, however, to err on the side of veto wizards I decided to blog instead of projecting it.
> 
> ...


I am up for it, ... give me a hint!

I checked out Bah humbug thinking that was it,.... what a hoot that post turned into, but not what I was looking for.


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *3D Printing in the Workshop*
> 
> While this topic doesn't strictly fit into the guidelines of timber product, it does incorporate the processing of said prerequisite, however, to err on the side of veto wizards I decided to blog instead of projecting it.
> 
> ...





> I am up for it, ... give me a hint!
> 
> - robscastle


If you are a sucker for punishment you can read about it in my "Logger" pulls his weight project (just below the *Third warning (I did say before that the Third was the final).* warning).


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *3D Printing in the Workshop*
> 
> While this topic doesn't strictly fit into the guidelines of timber product, it does incorporate the processing of said prerequisite, however, to err on the side of veto wizards I decided to blog instead of projecting it.
> 
> ...


I may have to go back and read it again saw nuffin about a laser to get tearie eyed about, ....sure you gave me the correct link?
Hey did you hear Mark may be in the smammer for illegally importing timber from Israel!

That would bring a tear to the eye if you know what happens!


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *3D Printing in the Workshop*
> 
> While this topic doesn't strictly fit into the guidelines of timber product, it does incorporate the processing of said prerequisite, however, to err on the side of veto wizards I decided to blog instead of projecting it.
> 
> ...





> I may have to go back and read it again saw nuffin about a laser to get tearie eyed about, ....sure you gave me the correct link?
> 
> - robscastle


*robscastle*, I hate reading so I will save you the agony of wading through the other article…

Here's the extract I was referring to… it may not make *your* eyes water, but the dent in my wallet did *mine*... both of them!

*Third warning (I did say before that the Third was the final).*

However, all this talk of a *Laser* is just a pie in the sky and is only of benefit to those that just happen to walk into a spare room of *your house *(you might get arrested if you walk into the spare room of a *stranger's house*) and notice a laser engraver/cutter in one of its corners (if you can't find it in the corner check the other 3 corners… but only if you have a 4 cornered house.. ok, to keep it short.. check ALL corners). Now, the way to ensure you miraculously find a laser cutter in the corner (of *your house*, a *stranger's house *would be considered theft) is to nurture a daughter (can be any female kind) that you get nagged by and subserviently relinquish your alpha dominance and concede to setting her up in a laser service providing enterprise , whereby that one and the same descendant then immediately loses interest once the cheque for the laser has been signed and deposited.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *3D Printing in the Workshop*
> 
> While this topic doesn't strictly fit into the guidelines of timber product, it does incorporate the processing of said prerequisite, however, to err on the side of veto wizards I decided to blog instead of projecting it.
> 
> ...


OK got it I think, way over my head unfortunately.


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *3D Printing in the Workshop*
> 
> While this topic doesn't strictly fit into the guidelines of timber product, it does incorporate the processing of said prerequisite, however, to err on the side of veto wizards I decided to blog instead of projecting it.
> 
> ...





> ... way over my head unfortunately.
> 
> - robscastle


Shouldn't be if you had a "loving" daughter.

Please… any ladies out there that were once a daughter, please do not reach for the rabbi knife… I love my daughter… it's her parent I blame.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *3D Printing in the Workshop*
> 
> While this topic doesn't strictly fit into the guidelines of timber product, it does incorporate the processing of said prerequisite, however, to err on the side of veto wizards I decided to blog instead of projecting it.
> 
> ...


OMG I just realised what that was all about,... too late for me, ...and no such luck with the loving daughter

And the duck tales continue


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## mochasatin (Apr 15, 2010)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *3D Printing in the Workshop*
> 
> While this topic doesn't strictly fit into the guidelines of timber product, it does incorporate the processing of said prerequisite, however, to err on the side of veto wizards I decided to blog instead of projecting it.
> 
> ...


Nice blog LittleBlackDuck. I received my first printer as a birthday gift a few months ago. As you already noted, 3D Printers are incredibly useful to a woodworker. Many fasteners, tools and fixtures can be created at the push of a button and a fraction of the cost. All it takes is a little time and some plastic filament. Even if you are not good with 3D CAD design, the Thingiverse.com (among other websites) has hundreds of premade designs that can be downloaded and printed on your machine. The Thingiverse.com website is somewhat akin to Lumberjocks.com except it is for 3D Printer enthusiasts. Take a look at the link. You may wonder how you ever lived without a 3D printer.

Here is an dremel attachment made by Frankenwaeldler on Thingiverse.com:


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## papadan (Mar 6, 2009)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *3D Printing in the Workshop*
> 
> While this topic doesn't strictly fit into the guidelines of timber product, it does incorporate the processing of said prerequisite, however, to err on the side of veto wizards I decided to blog instead of projecting it.
> 
> ...


Duck, you can start a business just selling your stocking stuffers.


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *3D Printing in the Workshop*
> 
> While this topic doesn't strictly fit into the guidelines of timber product, it does incorporate the processing of said prerequisite, however, to err on the side of veto wizards I decided to blog instead of projecting it.
> 
> ...





> ..... I received my first printer as a birthday gift…. !
> 
> - mochasatin


Damn *mocha*chino-*in-classy-linen*. I now know why it's good to get old… another birthday.

I love to stand on my soapbox (increases my 4' 15 1/2" height - 5' 3.5" in metric) and preach to the converted… lies are easie0r to remember. I love to tout the benefits of a 3D printer. Not every ones cuppa-tea (personally I prefer coffee) but it is now becoming a valid Wikipedia segment.

Have managed to come to "*incestual*" terms with *Thingiverse*. I have plagiarised quite a few patterns but "modesty" has prevented me from reverse APBing them (my bad - a lot of my designs [pictures] can be gleamed in my "STOCKING FILLER")... its lengthy but inclusive!

*PS.* I SketchUP… what "complexity" do you embrace?


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## JimYoung (Jan 20, 2014)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *3D Printing in the Workshop*
> 
> While this topic doesn't strictly fit into the guidelines of timber product, it does incorporate the processing of said prerequisite, however, to err on the side of veto wizards I decided to blog instead of projecting it.
> 
> ...


Hi LBD,

I stumbled across your blog from another 3D printer post. I picked up a 3D printer last year (Ender 5) and have always been frustrated with the non-standard duct collection fittings. Thanks for the idea, now I can sell my duct tape stocks and simply print my own adapters.


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *3D Printing in the Workshop*
> 
> While this topic doesn't strictly fit into the guidelines of timber product, it does incorporate the processing of said prerequisite, however, to err on the side of veto wizards I decided to blog instead of projecting it.
> 
> ...





> ... Thanks for the idea, now I can sell my duct tape stocks and simply print my own adapters.
> - JimYoung


Glad it gave you ideas *JY*. Not trying to teach you how to suck eggs, just remember to taper it slightly, only about 1-2mm along a 50-60mm length for that better fit.
You'll find that you can now make all your tools so incestuous that you'll never know who's coupled with whom.


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## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *3D Printing in the Workshop*
> 
> While this topic doesn't strictly fit into the guidelines of timber product, it does incorporate the processing of said prerequisite, however, to err on the side of veto wizards I decided to blog instead of projecting it.
> 
> ...


how the hell did i miss this,even papadan was on it?


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *3D Printing in the Workshop*
> 
> While this topic doesn't strictly fit into the guidelines of timber product, it does incorporate the processing of said prerequisite, however, to err on the side of veto wizards I decided to blog instead of projecting it.
> 
> ...





> how the hell did i miss this,even papadan was on it?
> - pottz


********************e… I thought I had you blocked, don't wan't you getting ideas and printing a couple of genitalia extensions.


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

*Metal bolts in timber threads.*

Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "*G*" for "*G*oing Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.










I am here to readily assist you in parting with your hard earned shekels without remorse, and if you are interested in a better solution (at a cost), read on. No… I don't have shares in the product and the retailer is not related to the "*waterfowl family Anatidae*" (Ducks 2u).

In the past I have occasionally used metal bolts in timber by cutting the timber thread using an appropriate tap from a low end tap and die set. 








I labelled the oft used taps so I didn't have to think each time, 









Then one day when I was trying to find that elusive imperial bit of hardware in our local dedicated fasteners retailer, I saw a set of taps and associated drill bits designed to handle our standard metric hardware and advertised as specifically suitable for woodworkers. Being a sceptic, I was mesmerised by the ad and even though I thoroughly quizzed the sales person, soon after I was heading back to my workshop to test my new thread making kit. 








I used to use this as a demo of wooden threads to woodworking guests in my workshop,









I'm not going to say that after that I always used metal bolts in timber threads, but when I have used them, I was never disappointed. I am continually amazed at the amount of pressure that could be applied before the humble timber turned into fire wood.

Back in February 2017 I saw this video about timber threaders being designed by "The Wood Whisperer " and an accomplice. Being a fan of timber threads I couldn't resist the temptation to place an order.

Today, August 2017 (a mere 6 moths later), my set of imperial and metric taps arrived. I immediately made a bee line (ok, teleported down using the phone booth) to my workshop and decided to compare my "original dedicated" 10mm tap with the newly arrived Spagnoulo (TWW) offering.









As always, it wouldn't be a Duck's Tale if I didn't digress. I was vaguely aware that my newly acquisitioned NOVA Drill Press had a tap feature and under duress, I quickly perused the instruction relating to that function.









After a few button presses, the drill was configured to do some tapping (if only it could do the same with beer).








While the speed is displayed as 900rpm, for tapping it was automatically reduced to 100rpm (what a bonus).

Now let's digress from the digression and waddle back to the story. I loaded each of the two 10mm taps and drilled the recommended holes. 

















Scurrying for a couple of 10mm bolts I was fortunate to find some as I would have had to tackle a couple of 12mm bolts with my die (and I didn't want to die today… never thought about tapping 12mm holes… DOH!).









After threading the two bolts, I tried the wobble test… I passed it with flying colours as I hadn't had a drink all afternoon, however, the original tap exhibited a slight wobble while the new tap was virtually immovable. Now I will reflect that I have not had any issues with the old threads as once the bolt was cranked up, all play was taken out. The TWW taps were designed with greater tolerances and to give you an indication, the old tap's specs recommended an 8.5mm hole while the new one's was suggested at 7.5mm. Overall the TWW threads were much tighter providing a more secure fit. As screwing progressed (hmm.. do you screw a bolt as you don't bolt a screw… preferably, unless your old… I digress if you hadn't noticed), I had to resort to using a spanner much earlier than the "original" tap.

Now not everyone taken in by my silken salesmanship will purchase the taps and then go out and spend $2,400 on a tap assisting NOVA drill press. Well for all you skinflints the TWW taps are just as much at home with the use of a drill (cordless, or for you senior seniors, a corded one) though variable speed is recommended. 









When using the hand held drill, the lead in may not be exactly 90° but as you progress even just slightly in, it aligns with the pre drilled hole and creates as tight a fit as with the NOVA. The taps can be used in a drill with either a variable or hex chuck.

The new set is now ready to be bolted to the wall,









You may all wonder what was that lonely first picture doing… Well he's part of the following conspiracy in presenting my acid test to all you skeptics out there… you know who you are!

Drilled a hole in a piece of pine and tapped it with a 10mm bit,








Remember the first picture? OK, here it is again in case the grey matter is having a sabbatical,








Decided to attack it with an 8mm allen key from the safety of my mini vice,








After a significant amount of torque and fear of risking another hernia, I eased up on the bolt,








You may have noticed that the head "countersunk" a good 5mm+ into the pine without affecting the integrity of the thread.

You may say it's only pine… "It's only pine!" That is why I managed to countersink, hardwood would (pardon the stutter) provide greater grip and countersinking resistance.

What does all this mean? Anyone wants a set of metric taps with complimentary drill bits. I paid $90 for the set and am prepared to relinquish it to a friendly home for maybe a donation of a cask of vino (locally).

For all those not interested in this topic, please go back and re-read the 1st paragraph and don't bother to read the rest.

*PS. *If you all stay good Boys and Girls and eat all your greens, I may post a review about wooden threads. Some may scream *NO MORE *and by pure mathematics, the remainder didn't, but you'll all have nightmares wondering *if* and *when*.


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## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Metal bolts in timber threads.*
> 
> Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "*G*" for "*G*oing Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.
> 
> ...


LMAO :<))


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Metal bolts in timber threads.*
> 
> Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "*G*" for "*G*oing Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.
> 
> ...


I am eating my greens and waiting for the review…..


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## bruce317 (Feb 23, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Metal bolts in timber threads.*
> 
> Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "*G*" for "*G*oing Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.
> 
> ...


I'll go with the above two, plus nightmares.


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## JohnMcClure (Aug 24, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Metal bolts in timber threads.*
> 
> Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "*G*" for "*G*oing Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.
> 
> ...


I'm hoping you discuss threading wooden dowels. And something about foie gras…


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Metal bolts in timber threads.*
> 
> Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "*G*" for "*G*oing Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.
> 
> ...


There's actually quite a lot to the geometry of bolts and threaded holes (for an exhaustive treatment of the subject, I recommend the Machinist Handbook).

Two of the key parameters are the major and minor diameters. Major diameter is what you measure when you put the flat faces of a caliper on the outer points of a bolt thread, and minor diameter is what you measure when you put the knife edges of a caliper as deep into the threaded grooves as possible.

The size of the pilot hole for the tapped hole is always larger than the minor diameter and smaller than the major diameter, and it will determine the amount of thread engagement (usually either 50% or 75%) between the surfaces of the bolt threads and the surfaces of the threads in the tapped hole.

Turning threads in harder materials (i.e. carbon steel) is very hard on the tooling and can break the tap in the hole if too much force is applied too quickly, so a larger pilot hole and less thread engagement is necessary for successful tapping, and it is acceptable, as the metals are hard and rigid.

For softer metals like aluminum and brass, more thread engagement is desired, as the metals are soft and can peen over (stripping the threads), but fortunately, these metals also cut more easily, so you can use a smaller pilot hole.

There are a lot of different styles of taps for threading holes as well, but the two major categories are cutting and forming, with the former cutting out the metal and the later pressing the geometry into the metal (these are usually used on high volume production applications). Cutting taps (pretty much what all hobby peeps have experience with) vary in the number of cutting flutes (typically 2, 3 or 4), the material (carbide or tool steel), the coatings (none, cobalt or tin) and taper of the leading edge.

So for threaded holes in wood, you would ideally have a pilot hole that was just a shade over the minor diameter of the bolt and the tap would be a cutting tap with nice deep grooves in-between the cutting edges to remove the wood waste (probably 2 or 3 flute, with deep flutes) and likely don't require as much of a taper to get the cut started.

Mark obviously did his homework and then either special ordered some odd ball taps of an existing design that were well suited for wood, or worked with somebody to come up with something new and had them manufactured to his specification.


----------



## tyvekboy (Feb 24, 2010)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Metal bolts in timber threads.*
> 
> Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "*G*" for "*G*oing Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.
> 
> ...


Another great post. Thanks for making me aware that such tools exist and where to find them.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Metal bolts in timber threads.*
> 
> Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "*G*" for "*G*oing Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.
> 
> ...





> ..... for an exhaustive treatment of the subject, I recommend the Machinist Handbook).....
> 
> - Mainiac Matt


Phew *MM*, that is one technical explanation. I was going to mention all that in this post but somehow it must have just accidentally slipped my mind or got lost amongst my scientific layman's prattle.

You have found my Achilles heel. For someone that burdens others with long winded posts, I have this abhorrent trepidation of reading. For this transgression, I have been chastised countless times.

You are 100% correct in surmising Mark had external help, and they did have the taps made to their specifications, hence the 6 months wait. He and his co-designer have released some videos which I have alluded to as he explains the threader much better than I ever could.

The main intention of this post is to get the point across that metal bolts in a wooden thread seem to have a place in the workshop and if people are inclined to venture down that path, Mark's little puppies (if one is prepared to pay that few extra shekels) do a better job than the taps most people would have access to through the normal home hardware type of tap and die sets.

I suppose having said all that, the jury may still be out on their endurance during seasonal wood movement, however, I believe that somewhere I read (correction saw in a video) that it didn't seem an issue.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Metal bolts in timber threads.*
> 
> Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "*G*" for "*G*oing Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.
> 
> ...





> .... Thanks for making me aware that such tools exist and where to find them…..
> 
> - tyvekboy


No woories *t'k'*, that was my primary intention.


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Metal bolts in timber threads.*
> 
> Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "*G*" for "*G*oing Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.
> 
> ...


Very interesting, now will store this in the back of my memory and will have to ask for help to find it when I really need it, but the info is there so I know it can be done and looks to hold surprisingly well I must add.


----------



## WoodPixel (May 20, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Metal bolts in timber threads.*
> 
> Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "*G*" for "*G*oing Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.
> 
> ...


If you are still willing to relinquish those metric bits and drills, Id gladly take them off your hands 

Ive even a project to use them on this week! Hows that!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Metal bolts in timber threads.*
> 
> Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "*G*" for "*G*oing Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.
> 
> ...


Well I think I will make a bolt for the "workshop" and see how all this spirals out.

Stand by I may screw up!

Hey how does the Teleporter work? ...a blog would be good 
BTW I think I may have dropped my wallet in your workshop some where its got a wad of cash in it!!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Metal bolts in timber threads.*
> 
> Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "*G*" for "*G*oing Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.
> 
> ...





> BTW I think I may have dropped my wallet in your workshop some where its got a wad of cash in it!!
> 
> - robscastle


Correction* r'c'*... *HAD* cash in it. Funny somehow the cash went missing and I also seem to have misplaced your wallet. I believe the salvos will send you a postage collect thank you note.

As for the Teleporter, it's not a home made job but bought in anticipation of me having issues with my steps after my 120th. birthday. However, if you want s sneak view try this.


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## bj383ss (Dec 8, 2011)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Metal bolts in timber threads.*
> 
> Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "*G*" for "*G*oing Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.
> 
> ...


LBD I am not going to eat any greens but I am awaiting the next installment. Hopefully if I order some they won't take 6 months to get to Texas.

Bret


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## Bluepine38 (Dec 14, 2009)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Metal bolts in timber threads.*
> 
> Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "*G*" for "*G*oing Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.
> 
> ...


Good article, however, for us lazier people there is a threaded insert for wood that I have been using for a 
long time. E-Z Lok is one of the manufacturers and they are available in most hardware stores and Home De
type stores. They offer a lag screw type thread on the outside and a bolt thread on the inside. With that said
there is something about cutting threads in wood that is more satisfying and challenging, both for the bolt
and the nut. I may not become proficient at it, but is fun playing in the shop and attempting it.


----------



## andrewkleinWW (Feb 20, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Metal bolts in timber threads.*
> 
> Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "*G*" for "*G*oing Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.
> 
> ...


Thanks for this thoughtful and thorough (and funny) investigation of the taps.

- the accomplice


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Metal bolts in timber threads.*
> 
> Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "*G*" for "*G*oing Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.
> 
> ...





> ..... a threaded insert for wood …..
> 
> - Bluepine38


Thx for the feedback *B'38*. I am aware of those gizmos and "often" use them.








Unquestionably you can apply more torque using those, if required, but often you don't need that "degree" of torque. I even developed a methodology on my drill press to ensure I got a 90° seating of the insert (if you start it off wrong, it seats wrong… I've seldom experienced them self centering).

What spurred me on about wooden threads (for metal bolts), years ago when on a project (making a jig for a friend… long before I started to share my ideas… so no pictures) I had to use over 100 1/4" bolts using those same inserts. Now it wasn't a cost issue as I didn't have to pay for it but rather a supply issue. Those inserts are rare as hens teeth in Australia (or at least short supply…. hence my stockpile). Here in downtown Churchill it's hard to buy a paper clip let alone a threaded insert. Furthermore in rural Gippsland towns (which is about a 24K drive), retailers still adhere to the practice of Saturday afternoon and Sunday closing and a 160K drive to Melbourne is a tad overboard. Not that the trading hours is a major issue with me as I'm now re*tired* (as I get older).

Bottom line, its not an ultimate solution, it is designed to inform woodworkers that haven't considered metal bolts in wooden threads and for those that have (and are sceptical) advise that is a fairly reliable option.

It's just a suggested alternative, similar to using wooden "bolts" instead of metal in accordance with the project's requirement, for example,









*PS. * I'm sure there may be someone out there blundering across this blog, who may not be aware of those particular threaded inserts, so this discussion has had that educational added benefit.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Metal bolts in timber threads.*
> 
> Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "*G*" for "*G*oing Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.
> 
> ...


OK did a few tests and had unsatisfactory results.

So rather than post misleading information I have added only the M8 Drill Tap I have.










Can you take a look at it and do a comparasion with your TWW ones please?

120 YO? Bloody hell man you will not have any friends….we will all be dead!!... I antipicate going under in 15 years or earlier if out of my control.

Meanwhile if I dont kark it overnight I will do some more tests using different timber, nothing else planned as My life savings were in that wallet, plus thanks for arranging the Salvos to drop by with some food parcels!

P.S. Took a look at the site, I wanted to build something similar so I didnt need to haul groseries up the front stairs, I think they were called dumb waiters or similar. Does yours actually work?


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Metal bolts in timber threads.*
> 
> Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "*G*" for "*G*oing Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.
> 
> ...





> .....120 YO? Bloody hell man you *will not have any *friends….


I don't have any friends now, so at least* that *wont worry me in the future!



> ..... Can you take a look at it and do a comparasion with your TWW ones please?
> 
> - robscastle


Interesting design. Looks like it pre-drills its own hole. That immediately raises alarms with me. If for no other reason, you need to drill a larger hole for hardwood than for softwood. To me it seems that the hole size will be restricted to the same size no matter what wood is used. Another shortcoming I can see is that both the drill and tap operation is done in the one step. I have in the past drilled the hole first and then flooded it with tung/burnishing oil before tapping. Lately if I want that added strength I apply some superglue after the drilling and before the tapping. I then re-soak it with CA and then give it another tap after it dries. In all fairness I haven't used that tap of yours so I'm only postulating and not in a comfortable position to comment further.

These are the two "type" of taps I used,








I use "type" as my tests were done using 10mm taps while pictured above are 8mm (same dimensions as yours).

With the TWW or any "standard" tap, you can decide on the size of the hole (within the acceptable tolerances) according to material type.

The good thing about standard (metal) taps is the diversity of materials it can handle, consequently it has to cater for the worst case scenario which is metal (to which it is configured)... and I'd rather have my head pummelled by a wooden baseball bat then a metal one… and people wonder why I'm dopey.

Now back to the TWW tap. It's thread specs are tighter than a metal tap, consequently it is a tighter fit. It has been designed specifically with wood in mind and the drill bit used is changed according to the timber's characteristics. For an 8mm tap, 5.5mm dia. hole for *softwood* and 7mm for *extra hard wood* are recommended. As you can appreciate, you have 4 drill bit options (5.5, 6 6.5 and 7) to play with according to your choice of timber (hell I should have been a salesman). There was a video on the net demonstrating the differences in resistance to lateral movement from a bolt using a standard tap and the TWW tap but I couldn't find it to post the link. However I can unashamedly confirm TWW's claim that the difference between the two is *significant* rather than just *minor*. 
Another obvious bonus is that the TWW tap is 100mm long while the standard tap is 76mm (for the 8mm taps… other taps have varying sizes but the TWW is longer for all). This 33% extra depth capacity make blind hole tapping more versatile.

I think the bottom line is that standard taps are still usable, however, if you are convinced that metal bolts with widen threads is viable and you need to purchase a/some taps or prefer that added snuggness, the TWW would be a better choice (but at a few shekels more).


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Metal bolts in timber threads.*
> 
> Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "*G*" for "*G*oing Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.
> 
> ...


Thanks LBD I will bumble on and see if I can produce a better result, as you say there is not too much difference in the taps more the process, so I will see if I have a tap without the drill snozzle.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Metal bolts in timber threads.*
> 
> Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "*G*" for "*G*oing Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.
> 
> ...


Update:
Nuts !! I gave up on the threading wood lark, I am a complete failure in that aspect.
So I ordered a series of inserts similar to your picture post.

Patiently awaiting the slow boat from China to deliver them.

hey I bought a good 12" saw blade on the net. its a Red Arrow brand cuts my Red Ironbark no worries.
just so happens the distribuitor is here in Brisbane, Auchenflower so I motored over on Sat and picked them up

https://www.ebay.com.au/b/Arrow-Saw-Blades/122837/bn_60545636

Thought it may be of interest


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## WoodPixel (May 20, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Metal bolts in timber threads.*
> 
> Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "*G*" for "*G*oing Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.
> 
> ...


I bought the entire metric set and the dudes from TWW found two spare M6's they sent separately….

Ive used these on 3 projects so far and clients absolutely love them.

They are now one of my Secret Weapons to win quotes!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Metal bolts in timber threads.*
> 
> Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "*G*" for "*G*oing Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.
> 
> ...





> ..... I ordered a series of inserts similar to your picture post….
> 
> https://www.ebay.com.au/b/Arrow-Saw-Blades/122837/bn_60545636
> 
> ...


*Plagiarist* being my middle name, I decided to make one of these *MFT* tables, however, I forgot that I virtually have my mini workbench permanently mounted to my normal workbench and my pretty little design had a tad more than "slight" overhang, 








Fortunately it was easier to move a 5/16" hole than a 1/2" hole for the inserts,









To take my saga of a "*MFT*" doplegagnger a step further, my intention is to flip the table upside down, reposition the risers and I can now use the bottom of the table with my Fetstool tracksaw and if I limit the kerf depth to the job thickness +1mm the damage to the table will be minimal and I get to preserve the aluminium track and anti-slip strips on the good flip side.









To take my soapbox agenda that step further, threaded inserts I have are 20mm long. Putting them into sheet goods less than 21mm would prevent usage from both sides (as I have done with mine). If you only intend to se 1 side this may not be an issue.

*r'c'*, I checked out your *Red Arrows *and when the missus saw the* 3X *describing one of the blades, it earned me a slap on the back of the head…



> .... I bought the entire metric set ….
> 
> - WoodPixel


*'Pixie*, In typical Ducky fahion, I went overboard and bought both sets. Found the imperial set ideal when I ran out of the 5/16" threaded XL Rockler risers (see above). Would be a tad difficult with threaded inserts unless one opts for big chunky timber to accommodate the 1/2" holes.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Metal bolts in timber threads.*
> 
> Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "*G*" for "*G*oing Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.
> 
> ...


I watched some of Daves video, he does some very professionally presented presentations, although he must be single if he thinks he could have the gear on the kitchen table, dining table or under the bed for that matter.
Either that or he has a death wish.

Like some of the one hit wonders who heat stuff up in the kitchen stove and microwave, I saw a video of somebody heating up metal plates in the kitchen oven and doing something like veneer work on the bench top!! only saw him the once so no prizes for guessing what happened to him.

The 3X I have missed so I will go back an look again always on the lookout for something resulting in a slap.

Buddy reciprocation time.


----------



## papadan (Mar 6, 2009)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Metal bolts in timber threads.*
> 
> Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "*G*" for "*G*oing Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.
> 
> ...


LBD, I'm waiting for you to make some wooden bolts and screw them into a steel block….....


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Metal bolts in timber threads.*
> 
> Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "*G*" for "*G*oing Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.
> 
> ...





> ... he does some very professionally presented presentations….


Not too shabby for a lowly *non-Victorian* Aussie.



> ... I watched some of Daves video, ....., although he must be single ….


That's what I thought first, but in one of his videos (and read his "ABOUT" - hey *#4*, if you happen to read this… I do read… under *duress* [my definition of *vino*]), he described he did it hard at the start and as he got older, why not indulge in some luxurious tools. He did say he had a very supportive wife and 2 understanding pug dogs. 
I tend to share his philosophy…. when I see tools, I morph into a *woman in a shoe shop*… one (pair) is never enough (easier to walk when you have the pair) and "price" is no limit… we suffer the purchase the next day, much like the women trying to walk in those ridiculous heels on their next shopping trip (for more shoes of course)... well at least I'm still trying to master it and the heels continue to play havoc on my ankles.



> Like some of the one hit wonders who heat stuff up in the kitchen….. no prizes for guessing what happened to him….
> - robscastle


Preaching to the converted there *r'c'*... When I first moved into a run down shack (one of many… well 2), as it was winter and I had no real workshop,








so I welded my back gate frame in the kitchen (on a bare chipboard floor),








a fire extinguisher within reach permitted me to reach my 2nd. week in the "new" residence.
Nevertheless I learnt a valuable lesson that day… one should never weld in thongs (at least on the feet)... even under cover and the warmth of a kitchen in winter. Molten metal/slag smarts on bare skin.


----------



## papadan (Mar 6, 2009)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Metal bolts in timber threads.*
> 
> Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "*G*" for "*G*oing Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.
> 
> ...


You win Duck, I have built a many carburetor on the kitchen table, but never welded in the house. ;-)


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Metal bolts in timber threads.*
> 
> Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "*G*" for "*G*oing Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.
> 
> ...





> LBD, I m waiting for you to make some wooden bolts and screw them into a steel block….....
> 
> - papadan


I'm half way there *ppd*... I have managed to cross breed timber and plastic,










> ... but never welded in the house. ;-)
> 
> - papadan


Since then (circa 1990), neither have I… and I have retired my workshop thongs for steel capped boots.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Metal bolts in timber threads.*
> 
> Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "*G*" for "*G*oing Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.
> 
> ...


Thats got to be the best looking screw I have seen in some time.

BTW 3X ….worked it out its on the ebay advertisment cannot see it warranting a slap though


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Metal bolts in timber threads.*
> 
> Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "*G*" for "*G*oing Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.
> 
> ...





> .... cannot see it warranting a slap though
> 
> - robscastle


You're right about eBay ads… another reason not to trust them… had to do a bit of a *gander *(no I haven't had a sex change) myself…

Maybe the missus's optometrist deserves the slap. She misread the* 3X*,








as *XXX*.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

*Bottled sawdust*

Boys and girls, I just finished watching another one of those videos where the author advises the use of sawdust in the glue squeeze out to create that seamless join especially when you finish up using a zig saw instead of the zag saw… 
*GREAT TIP!*

Now if you are like me, there is never enough time to finish clamping before the glue starts to set, let alone go foraging for enough sawdust to mix into the squeeze out/gaps… and sometimes I have craters.

If you are a clean freak… OOPS, the shop would be spotless and if you are not then the sawdust on the floor should be contaminated by cigarette butts, empty tinnies and leftover micro-waved leftovers.

I went to my supermarket and could not find any bottled sawdust on the shelf; I lodged a serious complaint with the manager. Arriving home and failing a Google search, I decided to bottle my own brew.

I am a dust freak… (the missus says I use the word "dust" too freely…) so I have posse of cyclone collectors (Dust Deputies) front ends to all my dust collectors and shop vacs.

One of the DD's is for my sanding and from that I can harvest very fine sawdust. Another one "front ends" behind my mitre saw. This can supply me with the coarse dust. 









Some of that dust I then sieve to give me the medium dust…, here's the proof, 









Now a lot will say that the saw dust may not match the job… especially if you use diversified timber. I suggest farm more frequently after processing specific timbers… alternatively put some of that scrap we all brag about and spend a few hours making dedicated dust, bottle it 









and try not to mix it up with your favourite alcoholic beverage.

Often you'll be caught with your pants down and don't have matching saw dust, I feel that a contrasting "hair line" is better than a gaping hole or congealed glue (often yellow, white or grey) that cannot be coloured without excavating the fill… and then you fill it with what?

Just make sure you have reserves and next to the project during glue up.

Hope this may inspire some to make some saw instead of the traditional bull.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bottled sawdust*
> 
> Boys and girls, I just finished watching another one of those videos where the author advises the use of sawdust in the glue squeeze out to create that seamless join especially when you finish up using a zig saw instead of the zag saw…
> *GREAT TIP!*
> ...


Dear DDW
Dead Duck Walking,

I see some jars and cake making items kleptoed from the kitchen … thats death sentence behaviour LBD.

A woodchipper comes to mind.

As for being caught with your pants down, to the best of my knowledge I havent met a duck yet that actually wears pants.

You really do not need that much sawdust (unless you are building something measured in cubits) just put some in a zip lock bag write the species on it, stash it away in a safe place and you will live longer.
Then after dark try to sneak all the wifes gear back into the kitchen unnoticed ensuring that you remove any evidence of tampering first.

BTW where is the video link please.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bottled sawdust*
> 
> Boys and girls, I just finished watching another one of those videos where the author advises the use of sawdust in the glue squeeze out to create that seamless join especially when you finish up using a zig saw instead of the zag saw…
> *GREAT TIP!*
> ...





> ..... You really do not need that much sawdust…..
> - robscastle


Some of the gaps in my joinery make the Grand Canyon look like a hairline crack.

If I die before I use it up, I won't remember regretting the over indulgence and if I don't die I'll get to refill the bottle.

I make/made pens and used sawdust to fill voids… with fat fingers its easier to wastefully overfill than repeat, repeat, repeat! Also in a gigantic glue up I'm not gonna say that that crack needs .2372g of sawdust… I'll round it up to .2375g… hang the waste!

*PS.* The missus wanted to know how dare you consider her kitchen goodies are sawdust?


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bottled sawdust*
> 
> Boys and girls, I just finished watching another one of those videos where the author advises the use of sawdust in the glue squeeze out to create that seamless join especially when you finish up using a zig saw instead of the zag saw…
> *GREAT TIP!*
> ...


and the pants?










Or more correctly the absence of them?

Do you need to borrow my other tape measure?


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bottled sawdust*
> 
> Boys and girls, I just finished watching another one of those videos where the author advises the use of sawdust in the glue squeeze out to create that seamless join especially when you finish up using a zig saw instead of the zag saw…
> *GREAT TIP!*
> ...





> Do you need to borrow my other tape measure?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Sorry *rc*, I'm colour blind… cannot read yellow… does it measure in grams?

Now you know who wears the pants in my family!


----------



## Pjonesy (Feb 20, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bottled sawdust*
> 
> Boys and girls, I just finished watching another one of those videos where the author advises the use of sawdust in the glue squeeze out to create that seamless join especially when you finish up using a zig saw instead of the zag saw…
> *GREAT TIP!*
> ...


Great story LBD but wouldn't it be easier to cut/plane/fit joints together perfectly before gluing to save all this hassle?


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bottled sawdust*
> 
> Boys and girls, I just finished watching another one of those videos where the author advises the use of sawdust in the glue squeeze out to create that seamless join especially when you finish up using a zig saw instead of the zag saw…
> *GREAT TIP!*
> ...





> Great story LBD but wouldn t it be easier to cut/plane/fit joints together perfectly before gluing to save all this hassle?
> 
> - Pjonesy


Sorry *Pj*, but I am a mere mortal not a kiwi… we all strive for perfect cuts and then look in the mirror and find the face is covered in razor nicks.

There has been far too many times when I need to resort to using a post glue up filler… during glue ups I often think of this technique but never have sawdust handy. This is just a method to farm in case you might need it.

If the joint is perfect squeeze out with sawdust is easier to sand and if there's nothing to fill… that mistake is a bonus.

For people that use the sawdust in squeeze out method, I'd be interested in how they get their sawdust filler.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

*Sharing shop vacs between power tools.*

Boys and Girls,

While this may be old hat to most, I've had enough friends (another one today/yesterday) saying that it's a good idea, so I thought it might be worth a shout out.

If you have a shop vac with an automatic outlet and share it amongst a number of tools during the one session, bridge the two with a power outlet plugged into the dusty. 









You can then plug each of the power tools into a spare outlet and give them all access to the dusty without dancing the power point shuffle.









No matter which tool you turn on, it will automatically activates the dusty… just don't forget to switch 
the hose… and watch both ends ends if you have more than one hose feeding the one dusty.









I use the same concept sharing the same dusty between my 2 mitre saws,









with a gentle reminder sign to get my act together,









which is toggled depending on the status of each saw. This sign is a very recent addition making clean up less arduous chore…

MY other (central) dusty also has provision for sharing, albeit loosely attached, as it is used to vacuum the full workshop and occasionally used for tools,









If you already perform this practice, there's no need to read this article.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Sharing shop vacs between power tools.*
> 
> Boys and Girls,
> 
> ...


Yep! Tats worth a post.


----------



## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Sharing shop vacs between power tools.*
> 
> Boys and Girls,
> 
> ...


I have to do this … sit down and figure it out …. right now I'm just using my lungs :<((((


----------



## jimintx (Jan 23, 2014)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Sharing shop vacs between power tools.*
> 
> Boys and Girls,
> 
> ...


Well thought out and executed.

What exactly is a "dusty"? 
I have what's probably a good guess, but thought I would make sure I know by asking. 
Thanks.


----------



## Budster (Jul 17, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Sharing shop vacs between power tools.*
> 
> Boys and Girls,
> 
> ...


Wife just got me a set up the other day. Now comes the hard part, I have to get off my big butt and instal it.( Damn, I could not get her to do That part.)


----------



## Dwain (Nov 1, 2007)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Sharing shop vacs between power tools.*
> 
> Boys and Girls,
> 
> ...





> What exactly is a "dusty"?
> I have what s probably a good guess, but thought I would make sure I know by asking.
> Thanks.
> 
> - jimintx


Agreed Jim, what the heck is a dusty? A cute name for a dust deputy? What???!!! Of course, telling me there is no need to read this article at the end of the article kind of misses the point, doesn't it. Good thing there was some great stuff here!!!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Sharing shop vacs between power tools.*
> 
> Boys and Girls,
> 
> ...





> …. right now I m just using my lungs :<((((
> - GR8HUNTER


At least there's no bags to change… most shop vacs have only 1 bag, while you are gifted with two lungs!



> What exactly is a "dusty"?


Sorry* jimintx* and *Dwain*, You are 90% half right. I do have a *Dust Deputy* front ending all (most) of my serious dust collectors which may have endeared me to generically refer to all my various dust collection units as "*dusty*" (even the broom)... I have enough* Deputy*s to form a fair sized posse…

In the past I have referred to my dust collectors as "*DD*" but that was misleading and Oneida threatened to sue me… just kidding (about being sued). 


> Wife just got me a set up the other day. Now comes the hard part, I have to get off my big butt and *instal it.( Damn, I could not get her to do That part.*)
> 
> - Orvile Baker


Hey *OB-1*,That is one mean lady… forget her birthday/anniversary?

Take it from me, dust extraction is the second most important equipment in a workshop… just in the shadow of a generous, toll free beer fridge!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Sharing shop vacs between power tools.*
> 
> Boys and Girls,
> 
> ...


Come on guys everybody should know its a Slim thing that plays music in the workshop!

Now about that toll free beer fridge thats the next dilemma? ... and wait there is more!
Yep I saw the last liner too! ... no doubt this was LBD at his Komputer after the post










He is a fern king funny boy


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Sharing shop vacs between power tools.*
> 
> Boys and Girls,
> 
> ...


If only the Slim (in shape… not presence) was me!



> .... that toll free beer fridge thats the next *dilemma*? .....
> - robscastle


NOPE! You forgot to mention generous (as in size)... YEP! Gonna need a bigger workshop.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Sharing shop vacs between power tools.*
> 
> Boys and Girls,
> 
> ...


OK I give up … whats it all about?


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Sharing shop vacs between power tools.*
> 
> Boys and Girls,
> 
> ...





> OK I give up … whats it all about?
> 
> - robscastle


The fridge is not the dilema… It's getting a workshop big enough to fit a decent sized fridge, is.

And if you refer to Dusty… I wish I was Slim (gutless) and still alive.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Sharing shop vacs between power tools.*
> 
> Boys and Girls,
> 
> ...


Thats the Man !
Slim Dusty, AO MBE Australian country music singer-songwriter, guitarist and producer, who was an Australian cultural icon and one of the country's most awarded stars


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Sharing shop vacs between power tools.*
> 
> Boys and Girls,
> 
> ...


And he was a duck lover!


----------



## nohuhu (Jun 21, 2018)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Sharing shop vacs between power tools.*
> 
> Boys and Girls,
> 
> ...


Nice tip, thanks! What kind of automatic outlet are you using? Does it sense power draw on a socket and turns on another socket (the one vacuum is on)?

I wonder if this approach can be used with something like power actuating blast gates… To complete the laziness routine, so to speak. 

Regards,
Alex.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Sharing shop vacs between power tools.*
> 
> Boys and Girls,
> 
> ...





> ..... What kind of automatic outlet are you using? Does it sense power draw on a socket and turns on another socket (the one vacuum is on)?....
> 
> - nohuhu


Hi *nohuhu*, For this setup, I just attach a normal power board to the "automatic outlet" on the shop-vac with the shop-vac set to automatic mode… I then plug all the tools outlet onto the power board (first blog picture). When I turn on a tool it activates the auto-outlet function of the shop-vac and turns it on.

I don't have issues with this setup as I will only use 1 power tool at any one time with the one shop-vac. If there is a chance (bad choice of words as there is always a chance no matter what) that more than 1 tool is activated, I would not recommend this.

For my remote activation of shop-vacs/dust extractors (in manual mode) I use these remote controlled power point with the remote colour coded for particular extractors,










for example, the green button controls my central Hitachi (green body) shop-vac,










on my static dust control.



> I wonder if this approach can be used with something like power actuating blast gates… To complete the laziness routine, so to speak.
> 
> - nohuhu


For power activated blast gates I would have expected each to have their own power feeds. In that case I would still use the above individual remote controlled outlet but with the remote on the right,










as it can control up to 20 different outlets (if you can remember them all). I prefer the smaller one, only for it's size and I seldom have requirement to remotely control 5 outlets… if I do, then I'll temporarily switch to the larger one.

*PS.* I'm not spruiking Kambrook, however, it was the only brand rated at 2,400W available at the time in Australia.


----------



## michaelmaloney (Feb 23, 2014)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Sharing shop vacs between power tools.*
> 
> Boys and Girls,
> 
> ...


For people who have not thought to use a vacuum while they're working with the wood in storage, they are going to be so grateful they stumbled on this article right now. Honestly, I don't know how people can deal with all of the clean up they have to do if they haven't been cleaning up as they go along, But everybody has their own preferred way of working around their own workshop!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Sharing shop vacs between power tools.*
> 
> Boys and Girls,
> 
> ...


Thx *m'm'*. Much as I hate working with melamine (and associated chipboard) and MDF, good quality ply is near impossible to get in my neck of the woods. Consequently I am depending more and more on thorough and efficient dust extraction. The more I can integrate it into my daily routine the more I will benefit from both the cleanness and health POV.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

*Safety in the Shop #1: Go - No Go indicator for the Band Saw*

*Boys* and *Girls*,

I got inspired by *J'J'*s handy hint in his blog Gauges in the Shop #1: Go - No Go gauge for Lathe Chuck and thought I might share this simplified indicator I use on my band saw.

It consists of a hunk of red coloured MDF









though you can paint it any colour if you are colour blind as long as it's not invisible ink and manages to annoy the hell out of you when dangling in your sight,

It is attached to the my tension handle of the BS,









by twine through a hole at the end of the handle and traipsed over the top of the BS, dangling down the operational side. Ensure the hole is drilled in the handle end or you may not get enough leverage at the other end unless you use heavy duty tug boat rope.

When the dangling chunk of red MDF blocks my view I know the tension on the blade is off…









and when the red doesn't annoy me I know the tension hasn't been released when I havent used the bandsaw for a couple of days forcing unnecessary pressure on narrow blades. Has saved many 1/4" blades.

You don't need a math's degree to work out the length of the string, however, I do recommend the MDF be measure in millimeters rather than meters… unless you want a good workout not provided by lifting a glass of beer/vino.

If you don't have a bandsaw, I'm sure you could attach this indicator to your cask of vino so you don't loose it among your other tools.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Safety in the Shop #1: Go - No Go indicator for the Band Saw*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


The de tensioning lever was a bit of a sore point with me for exactly the same reason.
What I did was to remove the original lever and add a longer piece of threaded rod pushing out from being hidden behind the saw frame into view so when I use the saw eye can see it.










Sorry about the laundry clutter but not everybody has a workshop

BTW where have you been for so long? I hope you are OK. 
Saw the Johny Joke but Google would not let me log on to acknowledge your nice Shirt.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Safety in the Shop #1: Go - No Go indicator for the Band Saw*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> The de tensioning lever was a bit of a sore point with me for exactly the same reason.
> - robscastle


Yeah I had a few battles with many various designs/solutions.

This just turned out the simplest (and cheapest) alternative… I used to have an indicator at the back but this in your face MDF block is hard to miss… I still occassionaly get caught out by nor de tensioning, however, it was less sever than throwing a blade and incredible how a 1/4" blade can bend… and of course then NOT unbend.


> Sorry about the laundry clutter but not everybody has a workshop
> - robscastle


Understand… everyone needs a bandsaw in the kithen for some of those cheaper cuts of meat.


> ..... BTW where have you been for so long?.....
> - robscastle


The altar wine at my last communion was more potent then I thought, spent some time sleeping in the car in the church's car park!



> Saw the Johny Joke but Google would not let me log on to acknowledge your nice Shirt.
> - robscastle


Can send you an 8×10 glossy of the shirt 









modeled of course…

Actually it's not a shirt but a nightie… worthy of the gold coat hanger…


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Safety in the Shop #1: Go - No Go indicator for the Band Saw*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


I found a picture of the original tension lever.
Looks like they must have bought all the left over 1950s era Beetle gear levers.
H&F Model 305. ...no longer made, ... opps no longer imported.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Safety in the Shop #1: Go - No Go indicator for the Band Saw*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> ... left over 1950s era Beetle gear levers.
> - robscastle


WOT? They didn't make ape hangers for the Beetles? Even Ringo dragged his knuckles on the ground…


----------



## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Safety in the Shop #1: Go - No Go indicator for the Band Saw*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Nice idea! I might have to do that.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Safety in the Shop #1: Go - No Go indicator for the Band Saw*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


detension the bandsaw duckie,whats that? i dont think ive ever worried about it.you still soldering together old fret saw blades to make your own-lol.
hey that shirt is hot,id like one for shop use,where did you get it?


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Safety in the Shop #1: Go - No Go indicator for the Band Saw*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> detension the bandsaw duckie,whats that? i dont think ive ever worried about it.you still soldering together old fret saw blades to make your own-lol.
> hey that shirt is hot,id like one for shop use,where did you get it?
> - pottz


For 1" blades I don't bother either, but the forces of a 17" BS on a narrow blade (1/8" to 1/2") stretches better than knicker elastic.
Damn, never thought of soldering fret saw blades I've been cutting teeth into these strapping bands,








the teeth are no issue, especially when I opt for 4 TPI, however, it's a bitch plugging up the holes…

Can't help with the nightie (not a shirt), I robbed a little old lady who bought it from an op-shop during the great depression.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Safety in the Shop #1: Go - No Go indicator for the Band Saw*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


That's clever, wonderful idea.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Safety in the Shop #1: Go - No Go indicator for the Band Saw*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> Please let me know if you're looking for a article writer for your site. You have some really great posts and I feel I would be a good asset. If you ever want to take some of the load off, I'd absolutely love to write some material for your blog in exchange for a link back to mine. Please send me an email if interested. Thank you! کمپرسور
> 
> - screwsazan


Thats a *GOTME*!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

*Power Tools a_CORD_ing to LBD.*

*Boys* and *Girls*,

With the popularity of cordless tools that boast the one battery runs millions of different skins phylosophy, the days of the recalcitrant power cord is becoming a relic of the past. 
As my collection of power tools are on the ever increasing decline (hmmm, as the missus would say "you oxymoron") I thought I'd share this idea as I reckon that many Lumberjocks will refuse to sever their power umbilical.

Now there are many classifications of tools, but I put them into one of two classes… *friendly* or *unfriendly*. The *friendly* ones are the tools with the soft rubber cords that have the tendency to behave themselves… the Fe$tool cords,









and the Fein, 









immediately come to mind. The *unfriendly* ones are those cheap Chinese tools with the hard plastic cords, that always manage to direct the tool in the opposite direction to the user's intention.

In the past I was guilty of sacrificing quality for the holy shekel and finished up with curly cords that even a hair straightener could not rectify… like this Ryobi grinder,









they all refused to get cramped back in their molded plastic box without some sort of dexterous manipulation,









Now I'm sure that many of us were/are still guilty of this practice,









of tying the cord and extension together to prevent inadvertent separation. Unless your extension was made of that same "unfriendly" plastic, you finished up with a lopsided knot that would snag onto everything, in or outside the workshop.

My initial effort to tame this snake was to shorten it enough that it didn't have to be rolled up to be put away









Even with this DeWalt biscuit joiner, I kept looking for a second box to accommodate the cord before its circumcision, and now after the snip,









Unfortunately this brought that knot far too close to the tool,









and still managed to retain the disuniformity of the knot.

This was solved when I discovered this little plug securing gizmo made out of plastic coated heavy duty spring steel, 









that slip on and off with the same ease as a well lubricated rubber.

However, the operational end of the power was always a long way away at the other end of the cord.

My next gen. solution incorporated the inclusion of an in line switch at the business end of the extension. 









I thought this inline switch was such a good idea and started to incorporate the concept in all my extensions,





















































phew.

As my collection of extensions expanded, while I will seldom cry poor, this fitting of inline switches was becoming a costly, if not to mention, a timely exercise.

Then I came up with the idea of a mini, inline switch extension which I could front end onto any length extension cord and still manage to control the power at the working end,


















the downside was that I needed 2 plug securing gizmos.

Somewhere I also picked up this plug lock that I found lurking on a bench, 









it was unused as it's not as good quality as the others, though it lets you hang the cord.

While on the topic of mini cords, I created several of these "extensions" 









to access those power points whose physical position may make them inaccessible due to the plug poking straight out, 









as not all extension cords have the low profile plug and this saves replacing it (or buying an extension with the low profile plug. I could have put an inline switch on these, but even I realised that I'd have to flip two switches within 6" of each other to activate, if I adopted this design.

While this item was designed to address power tools it can just as easily be used on a 1 or 2m extension cord for machinery that hide the power point behind them… this is the use of most of my inline cords in the above examples.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Power Tools a_CORD_ing to LBD.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


your cord crazy duckie,i can see the head line now, man found strangled to death in workshop full of power cords,obviously a cord horder-lol.


----------



## ddockstader (Jun 21, 2009)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Power Tools a_CORD_ing to LBD.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Where did you find the cord locks? I have looked for something like this for years and all I can find are big plastic covers that close over the two ends. Yours are simplicity and efficiency in one. I'd love to have about 6 of them.


----------



## metolius (May 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Power Tools a_CORD_ing to LBD.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


I certainly have molded plastic cases that find my curses as I try to get the tool's cord fit well enough to shut.
Where's the disconnect between case and product designers ?


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Power Tools a_CORD_ing to LBD.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


What a facinating and powerful post LBD.

I did much the same thing but found as you did they needed switches so I went this way.
This is for a situation where equipment is mobile, otherwise its not required.

For low current applications I used a smaller domestic cable (which I think was originally an extension cord, cut the outlet off and fitted a double outlet.










For medium current 2 x double outlets and understanding using only 1 appliance at a time this heavier run.










Then for the High current applications a single outlet.










They are normal surface mounted outlets fitted with fully enclosed boxes and industrial cable then glands/strain relief on the in/out entry.










More power to the Duck!
Incidently some trivia for you… here we go ….did you know the power comsumption during the day is refered to as a duck curve! how about that!!










Sorry about the microdot picture again!!


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Power Tools a_CORD_ing to LBD.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> What a facinating and powerful post LBD.
> 
> I did much the same thing but found as you did they needed switches so I went this way.
> This is for a situation where equipment is mobile, otherwise its not required.
> ...


with all those tools and power cords he's the biggest consumer of electricity-lol.


----------



## Pjonesy (Feb 20, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Power Tools a_CORD_ing to LBD.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


I couldn't help noticing the axe next to the power outlet. Is that the way you shorten your recalcitrant leads?
I don't quite understand the necessity of an inline switch. Once you turn the power on at the GPO you leave it on and use the on/off switch on the tool/machine. I turn the GPO off at the end of the day for safety.
I still enjoyed the story LBD


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Power Tools a_CORD_ing to LBD.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> Where did you find the cord locks?....
> - ddockstader


I bought them from *Just Tools in South Melbourne (Aust)*... Though it may be a tad more than a short bus trip from *Il*, do not feel dejected as I checked with the supplier just prior to posting this blog and was informed they haven't sold/sourced them for over 10 years. 
Initially when I first saw them, I purchase 20 of them (that's all the had in stock) and I often used them as stocking fillers in Chrissie presents for close mates. I now have 4 left and I take an inventory and frisk everyone before they leave my workshop… be they stranger, friend or family. 


> I couldn t help noticing the axe next to the power outlet. Is that the way you shorten your recalcitrant leads?
> - Pjonesy


Well observed *Pj* (*rc* eat your heart out), but NO. I use the axe to cut the power in case of emergencies.


> ..... Once you turn the power on at the GPO you leave it on and use the on/off switch on the tool/machine. I turn the GPO off at the end of the day for safety…...
> - Pjonesy


A quick one or two word answer.

All the woodworking police advocate turning off the power before you manipulate (not operate) the tool, eg. change saw blade and/or router bit… the router bit is with the router not the saw.
Now I didn't get this body beautiful by over exercising and with the on/off switch "next" to me, I'm more inclined to partake of that safety option. Though I seldom drag an extension from one side of the workshop to the other as I have a heap of powerpoints, outside of the workshop is a different story (even inside the house). 
I also use some Yankee 110V tools and I only have I outlet in my workshop. I have an inline swithc on my 110V cord. 
While you can disconnect the tools cord from the extension at the plug, I use those security couplers (or tie a know) which would prompt me NOT to separate.

i also have a lot of machinery squeezed u0p against powerpoints that make their access difficult.

*PS.* One of my major likes about Fe$tool is the detachable cord. I few times in the past I have activated a router while changing bits… there are not too many people that can make that statement without casualty… and it's one survival feat that I'm not keen on repeating.

If one is well disciplined, then yes, no need, however, it's a "safety" feature that in my laziness, I still manage to maintain/remember.

BTW *Pj*, long time no post… glad to hear you can still terorise us Aussies from across the ditch.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Power Tools a_CORD_ing to LBD.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> I did much the same thing but found as you did they needed switches….
> - robscastle


As always *rc*, I crap on and often disguise my true intention. While the inline switch concept is the solution to my need, I was trying to sell the idea of the *mini extension cord with the inline switch* that can convert any length extension cord to feature an inline switch.


> ..... For low current applications I used a smaller domestic cable….
> - robscastle


I have never got that scientific… so on hindsight, I offer this suggestion with reservations….

Get a qualified electrician to fit the inline switch and plugs.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Power Tools a_CORD_ing to LBD.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Hey looking back for the axe I see a 4.5" cartridge case on the bench whats the go with that piece of ordnance?


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Power Tools a_CORD_ing to LBD.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> Hey looking back for the axe I see a 4.5" cartridge case on the bench whats the go with that piece of ordnance?
> - robscastle


Left over form shooting duck shooters.

Was a thank you present back in the early 70's from some servicemen returning from *'nam*.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Power Tools a_CORD_ing to LBD.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Wow did you hit any?
So I can expect one of those do hickies for Christmas then?


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Power Tools a_CORD_ing to LBD.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> So I can expect one of those do hickies for Christmas then?
> - robscastle


Sorry *rc* but I'll leave the hickie making for you with *Aurora*.

As for the gizmo, to save on postage, I'll send it to *pottzy* and get him to put it in the same package as your 5/8" sharpener.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Power Tools a_CORD_ing to LBD.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> So I can expect one of those do hickies for Christmas then?
> - robscastle
> 
> Sorry *rc* but I ll leave the hickie making for you with *Aurora*.
> ...


no problem but that sharpener for rc is on back order so it could delay things,i wouldn't want to hold you up!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Power Tools a_CORD_ing to LBD.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> i wouldn t want to *hold you up*!
> - pottz


No need to fret *potzzy*, I have a black belt (upgraded my braces) and a baseball bat, so I can protect myself against *hold ups*…


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Power Tools a_CORD_ing to LBD.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> i wouldn t want to *hold you up*!
> - pottz
> 
> No need to fret *potzzy*, I have a black belt (upgraded my braces) and a baseball bat, so I can protect myself against *hold ups*…
> ...


i prefer my friends,*smith & wesson* there always ready to help out-lol.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Power Tools a_CORD_ing to LBD.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Hey speaking about things holding up,how about a first release …LBDs new carport

Drum rolll….... ta da

Here it is.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Power Tools a_CORD_ing to LBD.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> ..... carport…..
> - robscastle


That's what you need *rc*... then you can make your Sungka boards and pack them in your pine and jarrah boxes 24×7, regardless of the weather.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Power Tools a_CORD_ing to LBD.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


If only !


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Power Tools a_CORD_ing to LBD.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> If only !
> 
> - robscastle


You're welcome to come and use mine!... I'll even let you use some Churchill 'lectricity.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Power Tools a_CORD_ing to LBD.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> If only !
> 
> - robscastle


well you can pitch your tent im my back yard and have full access to my shop if want,plenty of room for both of us.just bring some vino-lol.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Power Tools a_CORD_ing to LBD.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> If only !
> 
> - robscastle
> 
> ...


*pottzy* don't forget the theme of this blog… If anyone brings a tent and hammock (to either destination), don't leave home without the *sky hooks* for the bungee.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Power Tools a_CORD_ing to LBD.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> If only !
> 
> - robscastle
> 
> ...


ha ha hey you've never been to pottzy party just bring the vino and the party will happen!!!!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Power Tools a_CORD_ing to LBD.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> ha ha hey you ve never been to pottzy party just bring the vino and the party will happen!!!!
> - pottz


Those Californian taxes must be high… here in Churchill the host supplies all the vino… free.. and we have a pond for those shrimps on the barbie!


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Power Tools a_CORD_ing to LBD.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> ha ha hey you ve never been to pottzy party just bring the vino and the party will happen!!!!
> - pottz
> 
> Those Californian taxes must be high… here in Churchill the host supplies all the vino… free.. and we have a pond for those shrimps on the barbie!
> ...


hey don't sweet it ducks when you come to my house you only bring yourself,and maybe a few friends.the vino flows all night into the next day,and considering how late you party,could cost me some serious vino money-LMAO!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

*Easy(er) way to use double sided tape.*

*Boys* and *Girls*,

I normally poo-poo authors that say a few words and then direct their audience to a YouTube video or to a different forum/WEB, however, this is another one of those tips that make workshop practices so much easier that I thought I'd break my own rules (this time).

OK, I folded, and had to make my voice be read.

When using double sided tape, a lot of people (me inclusive) cut off strips of tape with scissors, apply it to the timber and then swear like a trooper when you can't peel off the backing tape.
If you are guilty, read on, otherwise waste your time on a better article than this one.

This is a link to the tape I currently use,









now I'm not spruiking the supplier, however, if you browse the link you can the specs to find your own supplier. The Titebond was included in the picture to create a size reference… it is NOT there to suggest you need glue to hold the tape (DOH!). You may notice, and the rest may not notice, and a lot couldn't give a damn, however, there is 33m of the tape in each roll.

The tape is paper backed and micro thin and is not subject to distortions and compressions if you apply excessive downward force with the router (tool).

The secret is to not cut with scissors but rather leave some trailing paper backing









and tear the tape off (remember its thin… very thin compared to the 3M and such offerings). You may need to add an extra strip, however, the time to do that is a helluva shorter than trying to peel off the backing.

All further crap aside, I made this quick video for Rob on an easy way to use double sided tape…

Fortunately after posting the video on YouTube, a chap/chapette with the moniiker of *Kris s* identified the phantom author (which prompted me to make this blog official) and I thoroughly recommend it's viewing and professional presentation… sorry for those that viewed my offering before reading this.

While we both (us 2 movie starts) are demonstrating with the use of paper tape, I *believe* the same method could be used for heavy duty (carpet) tape for all you power hungry skeptics. I use the word *believe*, as I have only tested this on the paper tape and was to tight to go and purchase some heavy duty just for a demo.


----------



## Dutchy (Jun 18, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Easy(er) way to use double sided tape.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


THANKS


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Easy(er) way to use double sided tape.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


well the criminal activity continues,now it's plagiarism too-lol.
great tips duckie.


----------



## woodshaver (Mar 21, 2009)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Easy(er) way to use double sided tape.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Good info! Thanks Alex!


----------



## rad457 (Jun 15, 2013)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Easy(er) way to use double sided tape.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


I had been using the two sided turners tape from Lee Valley which is very very good but a PIA to use!
Picked up acouple of rolls of tape from Inside Passage and the stuff is amazing, will have to see where they get it from?


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

*Easy(er) Way to Change Your Dust Collector Bag*

*Boys* and *Girls*,

Another one of my plagiarised hints.

One of the things I will criticise about LumberJocks is that there is a wealth of information out there that just doesn't seem to get sufficient distribution onto the "ignorant". Now no offence meant to members as many may consider everyone knows about "it", whatever "it" may be, and there probably have been a number of past posts that the search engine did not reveal.

Even if the subject has been telegraphed, it may be hidden in the archives that new members may not investigate due to their arachnophobia or share my phobia of ihatereadia.

Unless you have one of these type of cyclones (bought or shopmade)









attached to your dusty, you will find the chore of replacing the collector bag will resurect your desire to turn into an octopus, much like in the past history of your prom night.

You may ask why am I writing all these blogs all of a sudden. Well I have come to the realisation that some of my knowledge resides in the part of my brain that alcohol may affect… so let's not waste the opportunity.

Allow me to introduce you to the ideal solution. Take a look at this blackboard and the answer is right in front of your eyes, 









You are a *dumbcoff*... unless you screamed, *it's a bleeding whiteboard* (DOH!).

*Dumbcoff* or not, the answer is still in front of your eyes… no not the picture, the magnet holding up the picture… 









even if you're colour blind you should realise it is not a blackboard as magnets would not stick to it.

This solution has been lurking in the background for over 4,000 years (some may argue that a Greek shepherd named Magnes first experienced it's characteristic) and ever since been waiting for the dust extractor to be invented.

Now here we happen to have a dusty without a cyclone,









that was previously dressed with the assistance of duct tape,









For this demo I have taken the band off, put it aside and pulled the dusties panties down around his knees,









now slip the plastic bag back on and place the magnets to hold the bag.



















I decided to use a heavier one where I overlap the bag (trial and error),









I suggest you distribute the magnets around the perimeter because if you put them all in one place, you might as well hold the bag with your free hand.

It's then just a "simple" job of placing the band and locking it. However,

Don't "band" over the magnets or you won't be able to do step *2*. Take note of *#2* in one of the paragraph below.
Don't forget to remove the magnet as after several bag replacements you'll have built up a large residue of magnets and you'll run the risk of running out of them.

Ready for use,









Now in all fairness, you will need to pick your magnet carefully,

Too small and it will not hold the bag.
Too big, it'll attract the band on top of it, which kaboshes *#1* in the previous 
paragraph.

I decided NOT to make a video of this as my animal nightie was at the dry cleaners, so I'll direct you to this video.

Enjoy your bagging… just don't bag me for posting this blog.


----------



## Bluenote38 (May 3, 2017)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Easy(er) Way to Change Your Dust Collector Bag*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Love it - never would have thought of it. I struggle regularly now maybe less so - Thanks


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Easy(er) Way to Change Your Dust Collector Bag*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


i knew youd come up with something i could use.my old delta dc had metal clips that you would just slide the bag under to hold it until you replaced the band,very simple and worked great,my jet doesn't so ill take your idea.ill get your royalty fee in the mail today ducks.thanks.


----------



## clagwell (Dec 20, 2018)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Easy(er) Way to Change Your Dust Collector Bag*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


I like the magnetic pushpins - the handle means I don't have to wait for my fingernails to grow out before I can change the bag.


----------



## PaulDoug (Sep 26, 2013)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Easy(er) Way to Change Your Dust Collector Bag*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


The bags I get for my HF dust collector are a little too small to go around the DC. I heat the open end of the bag a little and stretch it first. Wipe the part it slips on with a damp rag to remove the dust and then use duct tape. I do think I like the magnet idea somewhat better. Thanks.


----------



## socrbent (Mar 9, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Easy(er) Way to Change Your Dust Collector Bag*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


I second LBD's suggestion on using magnets while changing filter bag. Been doing that for a couple of years and it really helps.


----------



## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Easy(er) Way to Change Your Dust Collector Bag*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Cool!

I have a similar setup, plastic bag goes over a 2" flange. I never even considered magnets! I always had used strips of duct tape to hold up the bag while I got organized with the huge hose clamp. Step 1, tape bag in place, step 2, organize hose clamp, step 3, watch bag fall off while performing step 2 (rinse-repeat).

Thanks for the captain obvious reality slap one the back of the head LBD 8^)


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Easy(er) Way to Change Your Dust Collector Bag*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Facinating LBD… I am always attracted to your vast field of knowledge lines.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Easy(er) Way to Change Your Dust Collector Bag*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> Facinating LBD… I am always attracted to your vast field of knowledge lines.
> 
> - robscastle


your gettin awfull cozy with the duck these days RC you still tryin to get that wallet back-lol.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Easy(er) Way to Change Your Dust Collector Bag*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> I like the magnetic pushpins - the handle means I don t have to wait for my fingernails to grow out before I can change the bag.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Now that takes this tip up another level, *clag'll*. Where do you get them?... Glueing magnets to the bottom of my pawns will bugger up my chess set… loosing 4 pawns will force me to sacrifice my queen.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Easy(er) Way to Change Your Dust Collector Bag*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> Facinating LBD… *I am always attracted to you*r vast field of knowledge lines.
> - robscastle


Still fishing for that hickie *RC*?


> your gettin awfull cozy with the duck these days RC…
> - pottz


He's trying to suck up after I rejected his hickie request from me!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Easy(er) Way to Change Your Dust Collector Bag*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


OMG over the head of everybody … again my humour is wasted.
Magnets attract
They have a massive field around them 
Called magnetic lines of flux

How about those italian high heels.?

BTW you have possibly never seen or heard of this,
They make excellent fridge magnets!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Easy(er) Way to Change Your Dust Collector Bag*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> OMG over the head of everybody … again my humour is wasted.
> - robscastle


Sorry *rc*, I did miss that direct association, however, I'm still trying to gravitate away from your hickie request… Barely survived 1 night of mares.

*PS.* A motor bike is a tad heavy to hang off my fridge and 4x would be too expensive to use on my dusty.


----------



## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Easy(er) Way to Change Your Dust Collector Bag*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Great tutorial. I LMAO through most of it, thanks to all who added to it. LBD take a bow. I even saw a way to keep your magnets all dusty, errr maybe that was the point.


----------



## Peteybadboy (Jan 23, 2013)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Easy(er) Way to Change Your Dust Collector Bag*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Good idea.


----------



## EarlS (Dec 21, 2011)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Easy(er) Way to Change Your Dust Collector Bag*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


I read this and said "duh why didn't I think about using magnets?" As others mentioned I thought I was pretty clever using DUCK tape. Now i have a better way and no DUCKS will be harmed when I change my DC bag.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Easy(er) Way to Change Your Dust Collector Bag*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Thanks for the positive feedback guys… Glad my time spellchecking was not wasted.

Special thanks to you *EarlS*... me and my kin are grateful for your benevolence.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Easy(er) Way to Change Your Dust Collector Bag*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> Facinating LBD… *I am always attracted to you*r vast field of knowledge lines.
> - robscastle
> 
> Still fishing for that hickie *RC*?
> ...


so he's cheatin on anthony already,probably because he over stayed his welcome and was asked to leave.if you see a tent in the yard you'll know why duckie.


----------



## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Easy(er) Way to Change Your Dust Collector Bag*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Nice try but you can't fool me. Magnets don't stick to plastic bags.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

*Dis_CORD in the workshop*

*Boys* and *Girls*,

*Dis* cord or *dat* cord, no matter which cord, they both get in your way when trying to manoeuvre tools around in a small workshop.

Let's re-introduce capital punishment and all those guilty, should be *hanged*. Unfortunately, electrocution or lethal injection is reserved for the delinquent operators.

The *pinnacle* of this suspension method are these *snap hooks* (surprisingly, made by Pinnacle),









I used to make my own hanging noose, using *rope eyes*,









and 6mm or 8mm *shock cord*









Other weapons in my gallows arsenal are these *cable ties*,









(which I purchased from *Bunnings*… they were a discontinued item so I bought all their remaining 4 strips of stock… so don't come to *Morwell* searching for them) and these *key ring connectors*,








As the *rope eyes* were metal, I could use these magnetic pickup rods,









to "string" them up from the ceiling using hooks,









or just strung over my "ceiling joists",









and front ended them with the *snap hook, key ring* and *cable ties*,









Browsing through my local $2 shop to police they didn't carry $3+ items, I found these *bungee straps* with aluminium *snap hooks* at either end,









At $2.99 each (just under the $3 and avoided being arrested), they are a lot cheaper than my shop made ones and a tad quicker to assemble (just rip the packaging apart).

Unfortunately science is yet to invent aluminium magnets so my mag rod was useless. I started using my outdoor blind pull rod (as I had no outdoor blinds) 








to hang these aluminium *snap hooks*









and rig out the shop-vac hose using the *key ring* and *cable tie*,









... the cord for the sander was just looped through a separate suspended *snap hook*









boasting a mini inline switch (circled).

Armed with the above hanging nooses I can prevent both the power cable and shop-vac hose (if required for the job) from interfering with the normal flow of my workshop processes. 
*Note:* the above picture was posed for by stunt doubles and not necessarily located in their actual working environment.

The major benefit of the *shock cord (bungee)* is their elasticity and give support while permitting movement past the contracted (non-stretched… not solicitor speak) length of the cord(s).

I use these cords extensively in my workshop to suspend everything just short of my jocks and sox,




































If you didn't like this idea, you can *hang* your head in shame for reading this far.

*PS.* For all you bookworms that hung on every word I wrote… *Morwell* has the nearest *Bunnings* store to downtown Chuchill.


----------



## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Dis_CORD in the workshop*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


This is a find solution for vacuum hoses and air lines LBD. However, I must urge you to immediately suspend the practice of suspending your electrical cords and immediately return them to their natural position. This is a possibly severe hazard as the safe operation of any electrical device requires proper *grounding*.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Dis_CORD in the workshop*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


more great idea's from the mind of the duck.ivve done some similar things in my shop like the swinging boom arm over my assembly bench that has electric and vac.also i have drop cords 110v-220v in various places.your really on a blog roll theses days.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Dis_CORD in the workshop*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> ..... This is a possibly severe hazard as the safe operation of any electrical device requires proper *grounding*.
> - HokieKen


Hokey-Dokey, *Hokie'*. Your observation and concern for my well being has been duly noted and greatly appreciated.

Fortunately in accordance with the Occupational Health and Safety requirements of 2004, I introduced my culinary prowess into my workshop,

*Food* for the belly. 
*Drinks* (alcoholic) for the mind.
*Salt* for those slipping glue-ups.
and for the *Coup de grâce* ( NO, NOT *SOUP*...), wait for it… drum roll… 
for the potential electrical hazzard….. sprinkling of *pepper*....... *GROUND pepper*.



> .... your really on a *blog roll* theses days.
> - pottz


*pottzy*, you must be psycho!

With all the rain and storms lately in Churchill, the rivers ran deep so I took up log rolling. The missus called me a bloody idiot. In persuance with my hate of reading, I paraphrased the *B*loody idiot and *log roll*ing into what you refer to as…

*... blog roll*.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Dis_CORD in the workshop*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


this thread's not gettin much action duckie could it be the jocks have had too much -*duck *lately!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Dis_CORD in the workshop*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> this thread s not gettin much action duckie could it be the jocks have had too much -*duck *lately!
> 
> - pottz


Noah can retire… The deluge has stopped and the duck's brain is herewith an empty void… and the liver emulsified pate from forthcoming vino.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Dis_CORD in the workshop*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> this thread s not gettin much action duckie could it be the jocks have had too much -*duck *lately!
> 
> - pottz
> 
> ...


ill drink to that!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Dis_CORD in the workshop*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Well, its created some action for me, I have ordered some swages and thinble from ebay.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Dis_CORD in the workshop*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> Well, its created some action for me, I have ordered some swages and thi*m*ble from ebay.
> - robscastle


Thanks *rc*... not for the action but identifying the proper names for the parts that I used.


----------



## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Dis_CORD in the workshop*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


The ceiling is a great resource for all kinds of things. I have black pipe that I have going across the ceiling of my shop and hang all kinds of stuff from it…vacuum hose, electrical cord, finished parts drying, etc. I use bungee cords, rope and all kinds of hooks.


----------



## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Dis_CORD in the workshop*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Ahhhh, ground pepper! A clever solution indeed. I have attempted similar in the past but I used whole peppercorns. Naturally, this resulted in *ground faults*. I'll try pushing some of those through the pencil sharpener tonight and see if it works in this hemisphere as well. How much would you say is required for each tool? A *thinble* full perhaps?

I have tried coffe grounds in the past as well. It worked for a while but then they got exhausted. I shouldn't have used decaf I suppose…


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Dis_CORD in the workshop*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Did you know that you can atually magnetise aluminum its a phemonea called eddy currents.
If you remember back to your teenage days when you had a 45 RPM vynl or possibly bakelite records if you inherited some 78 RPMs

The record played had a speed control knob which provided a level of speed control to compensate for differences in mains voltage I.E. 220 to 240 VAC.
How this worked was it produced an eddy current and magnetically altered the record player motor.
When you pulled it apart to see how it worked there it was.

Also magicians used to use it to levitate aluminium rings as a stage trick.

I think you can do it with an empty Auminium beer can and magnets, drink heaps of beer and as you throw them into the bin and as they pass through the magnetic field some will not end up in the bin but fall all round it. (lenz effect)

I am full of it this morning!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Dis_CORD in the workshop*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> ... How much would you say is required for each tool? A *thinble* full perhaps?.....
> - HokieKen


I could give your *thimble* an up thumbs, however, I recommend "a *peck*... a *peck* of pickled *peppers*"... but use apple cider for the pickling… vinegar or lemons leave a sour taste, even for the most Grizzly tools.!



> .... I have tried coffe grounds in the past as well. It worked for a while but then they got exhausted. I shouldn't have used decaf I suppose…
> - HokieKen


Naw that an acceptable work around that I never considered, *Hokie'*. However stay clear of the decaf… it's benefits are still up in the air.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Dis_CORD in the workshop*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> ...If you remember back to your teenage days….
> - robscastle


*AH YES!!!!* I drifted off with wonderful memories and never got down to reading about emptying aluminium beer cans.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Dis_CORD in the workshop*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


OK. Back down to earth….


> The record played had a speed control knob…..
> - robscastle


Where do I start?


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Dis_CORD in the workshop*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


All serious stuff, just in case you thought I was trying to lump BS on you






Uh we are up to error 524 now.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Dis_CORD in the workshop*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


All serious stuff, just in case you thought I was trying to lump BS on you






Uh we are up to error 524 now.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Dis_CORD in the workshop*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> All serious stuff….
> - robscastle


Thanks *rc*... so what you are alluding to is that I need to install about 20 of these gizmos in my workshop for those aluminium hooks,











> Uh we are up to error 524 now.
> - robscastle


Upgraded your computer? Actually I make that *1048*...



> ..... trying to lump BS on you
> - robscastle


I trust you! How many used cars are you planning to sell this weekend?

*PS.* Always wanted white hair… (actually, it was an interesting video).


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Dis_CORD in the workshop*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Sorry about the double post…I just wanted to get my message across….not!

No used cars but I have an eskimo interested in my fridge.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Dis_CORD in the workshop*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> Sorry about the double post…I just wanted to get my message across….not!
> 
> No used cars but I have an eskimo interested in my fridge.
> 
> - robscastle


As long as he's not a Queensland eskimo… they don't need fridges in 40°C+ temperatures.

Also one need 2 posts to keep everything level…. hell, that nearly makes sense!


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Dis_CORD in the workshop*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


here we go with that aussie talk again,hey im a dumb ass Californian ya gotta keep it simple* dudes*.this was about workshop tips,right!-LOL.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Dis_CORD in the workshop*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


here we go with that aussie talk again,hey im a dumb ass Californian ya gotta keep it simple* dudes*.this was about workshop tips,right!-LOL.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Dis_CORD in the workshop*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> here we go with that aussie talk again,hey im a dumb ass Californian ya gotta keep it simple* dudes*.this was about workshop tips,right!-LOL.
> 
> - pottz


*pottzy*, the simple message in this workshop tip… allbeit subliminal, was… *dumb ass Californians should not go into workshops*. You may need to move interstate to continue your hobby!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

*Voice activated Workshop Automation.*

*Boys* and *Girls*,

Anyone can make a *fancy splined dovetail box*, turn a *segmented inside out vase*, build *fantastic workshop storage units/cabinets* and even construct *beautiful heirloom household furniture*… but not everyone can disseminate *useless information* with then vigour that *I can*.

This time I will attempt to help modernise the workshop.

Some of you have been exposed to my gadgetry fetish and my latest foray into the ridiculous was through the introduction of *smart devices* driven by the Amazon. No, not the river, but rather the world's largest online retailer… more specifically their sexy sounding *Alexa*.

I got carried away and bought a swag of *smart lights* 









so I could scare the bejesus out of visitors and frighten them with tales of dead ghosts that have a light phobia inside my Churchill residence.

After being disowned by family and friends for continually changing colours,




































I gravitated towards *smart plugs*… 









not 'cause I needed one but the concept fascinated me. I toyed around with them but after facing reality, I realised I needed some useful purpose for them.

Now I happen to use remote power swithches and foot powered power-boards in my workshop to control tools and in particular my dusties from a distance. I wrote several articles about this topic. I'm not encouraging anyone to read them, however, if you want some background information these links may help to confuse you even more:

One point shop vac clean up.
Dust extraction made easy(er) with remote control.
FOOT Powered Machinery.

Many of my machinery either used a foot controlled power board or this remote controlled power point, 









that I hang around my neck, 









Hanging jewelry from my neck reminds me of my hippy days, however, when bending over the table saw I am reminded of the movie *Class of '77* where someone got dragged into a saw blade and he got a bit more than a short back and sides. Consequently, all my workshop upper body attire incorporate a pocket that I can slip the remote into (if I remember),









while prostrating myself over that whistling saw blade.

This unsafe practice of a dangling extrusion from my body was forever paramount in my mind, every time I operated the table saw, so it was with eager enthusiasm that I decided to try using *Alexa* to substitute for the remote, and reserve the remote for potentially less blood thirsty amputations.

I replaced the remote power point with one of these units,









and attempted to give my new life manipulating female the power to determine my fate.

Unfortunately *speaking photos* have not been invented yet… (note the deliberate avoidance of saying *pictures with sound* as they are called something like *movies* and were invented a long time ago)… so I resorted to one of those name dropping *movies* to demonstrate the power of that Amazon called *Alexa*. To get some bearing of the sound that eventuated, you *may* need to "listen" to (yep "listen" to the video to hear *Alexa* do her thing) this YouTube video... actually forget *may* as it is now June, so "listening" is a *must*...

One of the benefits of the *smart plugs* is that the use Wi-Fi which has better penetration (between machinery) than the infrared power points.

The only downside of this scenario was that I had to literally scream at *Alexa*, not cause she's dumb or can't understand English (though she is hard of hearing when I forget to put my teeth in), but the dusty is so loud it tends to deafen my voice. Sometimes she got so upset with my attitude that I had to repeat myself. Nevertheless, *Alexa* operates from a power point, so it could be brought closer.

*I do not recommend using the *smart plug* to power *Alexa*... DOH! the suggestion was made and behold it wasn't by me! *

Now I'm not sure of the longevity of this solution, as with time, I may revert back to the dangling (not darling) remote, especially if *Alexa* plays dumb, however, the main purpose was to introduce readers who have not encountered this electronic marvel and hopefully give them inspiration for some use of it in their workshop… Share these gizmos with family and it sure beats the heck out of the grand-kids buying *pa* hankies and sox for Christmas.

Unfortunately you do need an *Alexa*, 









*Google Home* or *some other media controlling device*. As I always listen to talk-back radio, through the Internet (as the reception over a real radio is impossible in downtown Churchill), I have these *Alexa*'s scattered all around the house so she can follow me while I slink around from room to room.

The other downside is (which turns my "only downside" statement above into a big fat taradiddle) that you need a *smart phone* to link *Alexa* with the *smart devices*… after that you can throw away or sell your phone as it's not needed, unless you want to turn your light on for burglars, while you are interstate. But then again you could annoy the hell out of them (burglars) by continually switching the lights off remotely, while they diligently attempt to rob your house.

Now for all you thrifty shoppers that seem to be more concerned about the shekels before your eyes, 









(refer to the price list below… (below below)…. (way below, below below ), you should already have an *Echo dot* in your house… and if you haven't one, you should already have an *Echo dot* in your house… catch my drift? Now that you have the *dot* in your house, consider that a good LED will cost up to $12, while a non-coloured *smart light* will set you back $15… you don't even need a calculator to work out paltry extra in cost. 
These lights can be set up around dim lit tools/work-stations and you don't need a third hand to turn on the light while holding your work with your other two hands.
With the *smart plug* you could toggle any non-mag switch controlled machinery (noise permitting).

And if I haven't mentioned it before (no need to re-read as I don't think I have), you don't need a qualified sparkie to install these. 
Having said that, I'm hanging out for the *smart switches* to become available here in Australia at a more economical price, however, legally they will require a qualified sparkie to fit them… unless you're a regular law breaker in which case the sparkie doesn;'t have to be qualified. I am eager to install one to control my workshop's neons which are currently controlled by a ceiling pull switch.

*Wanna hob-knob with the elite?* If you lash out those extra few shekels for a coloured light, you can turn it green and make those cheap HF tools look like a *Fe$stool* "without the price tag".

*Suggestion!* I do recommend you take up drinking *rum*… if only to keep the throat lubricated to be able to partake in *Alexa* speak.

For those who eagerly sought after prices (shop around and you might be able to pay a little more than liste below… yep you've reached that below):


Echo dot (gen 2)....$29
Echo dot (gen 3)....$35
Smart light…..........$15
Smart Light Color….$29
Smart plug…..........$25
Smart switches…....$85+ (none economical enough to buy in Australia and USA suppliers wont ship).
Good LED globe…...$12

*PS.* Sorry *pottzy*, its not the *clock saga* I promised… that's still being evaluated by the censors and my legal team.

*PPS.* I did find that the *genio* plug worked better in my workshop than the TP-Link. I believe it had to do with my Internet reception through a 250mm concrete slab as their performance couldn't be separated in my office.


----------



## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Voice activated Workshop Automation.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


awww the video does not work :<((((((((


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Voice activated Workshop Automation.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> awww the video does not work :<((((((((
> - GR8HUNTER


And you complain… most people normally cheer….

The only suggestion I could make is to try this link,





Please keep me informed if it doesn't work as the sound of the dusty (not my speak) is the crux of this BS.


----------



## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Voice activated Workshop Automation.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> awww the video does not work :<((((((((
> - GR8HUNTER
> 
> And you complain… most people normally cheer….
> ...


might be my puter :<((((((((((


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Voice activated Workshop Automation.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


OMG all that reading and no talking pictures,










Love the front light

Hate the still there 520 errors!










Where are the pictures of your twin sister Alexa?

Ive gotta get one of those shirts! where did you get it from again?

Wait there is now more:-
I just checked out this Alexa bird, she is some sort of virtual woman, but as with all women there is an ongoing fee involved, what a surprise. So thats a pass from me as I have no money.

Unfortunately thats a *I do not need* an Alexa,


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Voice activated Workshop Automation.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> ..... OMG all that reading and no talking pictures…..
> - robscastle


Hopefully the video should work now… you weren't missing much but I would appreciate if it can be viewed.


> ..... Unfortunately thats a *I do not need* an Alexa…l..
> - robscastle


True, however, it's nice to give orders to someone else for a change rather than continually taking them.

Staying clear might be a wise move… like my laser, I don't need it but now I could never do without it.

I believe in Malcolm Fraser philosophy of "*Life wasn't meant to be easy*", however, a few creature comfort make it easier. After I die, I don't want to spend eternity regretting I didn't get a few *smart plugs*.


----------



## Pjonesy (Feb 20, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Voice activated Workshop Automation.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


I got to tell you LBD I'm half way there because I am already a rum drinker but it is so hard to get Bundy Black in NZ.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

*Susan is NOT so Lazy*

*Boys* and *Girls*,

Got inspired by *majuvla*'s Lazy Susan wheel, to give an alternative use of these balerina imitators, that does not involve feeding my face.

Their conversion from lazy to active doesn't have to be pretty and can be very functional in both the household as well as the workshop. You do not have to frequent Chinese restaurants and master chop sticks to appreciate the use of these lethargic rotating marvels. To remove the languorous tag, I will henceforth refer to them with the active title of *turntables* (without the vynil).

I keep a collection of turntables in my workshop, just in case I need to take some new creation of mine for a spin,









For the more budget conscious, here is a breakdown of the shekesl you may need to part with if you dare to venture down this path, though you may need to move to Australia to take advantage of our local bargains.

Locally (Australia) they come in 3(+1) flavours,

Circular aluminium turntable, 








with screw holes for base attachment and soft suction cups to balance a top table (very glass-top friendly).
They range from 120mm ($8.75) to 450mm ($38.10). The large one's load rating is around 300kg and is 8mm thick.
 Circular Heavy Duty steel ball bearing turntable, 








These range from 8" ($12.90) and 12" ($18.00). They are rated at 450kg and 12mm thick.
Square Heavy Duty steel ball bearing turntable,








These range from 3" ($5.00) to 6" ($6.40). The 6" is rated at near 230kg.
There is a similar stainless steel version 








available from Bunning, 6" ($30.00). Going by the impression of it's quality, I'm guessing it could take significant weight (if you can balance anything on them). May be shiny, but the bling not being visible, wouldn't justify the extra cost.

For those that have not exposure to a Lazy Susan (sorry turntable), here is a view of the top side,








and *her* (temporarily reverting back to the Susan nomenclature) bottom,









If you look closely,









they have a hole designed to permit access for screws to attach the top table to the turntable. You will need to drill an appropriate aligned hole in the bottom table









to fasten the top with the screws.

The aluminium versions willl also require the hole in the bottom table. The turntable is designed to rest the top table on and lacks screw holes… 









the soft cup's plug holes do not go all the way through









so if secure attachment is required, you'll have to drill and countersink at least 3 screw holes… suggest masking of the turntable to keep swarf out of bearings.

This is my goto heavy duty turntable for the workshop. Extensively used when light sanding (heavy sanding may make the work unstable), staining, painting etc… 


















The top and bottom table have holes for rotation locking at 90° using 3/8" bolts,









There are also two onboard door stops (held on by dowels),









that can be used to "lock" the tables at any rotation 









to limit movement when a little heavy handed work is performed.

The prime use is in the paint shop as pieces can easily be rotated to get that ever elusive access angle,































































I have also mounted some of my miscellaneous small tools for easier access,



























In the house I use one on my entertainment tower,









to provide easy access to those ever increasing cables,









and use a door stopper to stop free rotation,









it also made assembly and painting easier,









And to get access to my TV,









whenever plugs need to be changed or added,


















Another project I made use of the turntable was for the display of my boat. As the port side was open to reveal the insides of the Bounty, the turntable made it easy to display it in 360° view,



























A hint for centre mounting the turntable to "panels" for screwing. I cut MDF circles with the same diameter of the inner "hole" and using a dowel in the panel,









the turntable can be centered,









this same method can be used if the top and bottom tables are not the same size, otherwise they can simply be clamped for screwing.

If you didn't like this article, you could still make a turntable, stand on it and spin around till you get so dizzy as to forget what you have just read.


----------



## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Susan is NOT so Lazy*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Dang Duck, I'd call you "lasy", but I can't 8^)

Those aluminum versions look really nice! I like the low cost of the stamped steel versions, but their noise and general cheddar-ness always bums me out for fine projects. Do the Al-u-mini-um parts turn as smoothly and quietly as they look?


----------



## woodshaver (Mar 21, 2009)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Susan is NOT so Lazy*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Great blog LBD! 
This is how I use one and sometimes I use it to display my project.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Susan is NOT so Lazy*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> .... Do the Al-u-mini-um parts turn as smoothly and quietly as they look…
> -splintergroup


They do turn smoother and quieter as it's steel against aluminium and not steel against steel. However, the difference is marginal as I use lithium grease which quietens it down. The main difference is that the aluminium comes in a larger diameter and is attractive when used with a glass top. I tend to reserve the stamped steel ones for workshop use and "friends" that are hesitant in paying for some of the cost for projects I do for them.

I also stand corrected as the large aluminium is rated at 300kg and the pressed steel at 450kg. Profile may be a consideration as the aluminium is nearly 4mm thicker than the steel.


> .... and sometimes I use it to display my project.
> - woodshaver Tony C


Thanks *'shaver'*. That's another great use of them that I have overlooked… gratitude for the heads up and I'll update the blog.

My experience has been that most people who use them, seem to limit the use to kitchenware/food and not so much in the workshop.

And then there are the few that either aren't aware of their availability or too scared to try them…. IT's for these that I posted the blog.


----------



## woodshaver (Mar 21, 2009)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Susan is NOT so Lazy*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Oh wait…..I forgot I have one in my shop also! 
.
!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Susan is NOT so Lazy*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> Oh wait…..I forgot I have one in my shop also!
> - woodshaver Tony C


Where do you hire that great hand model?


----------



## woodshaver (Mar 21, 2009)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Susan is NOT so Lazy*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> Oh wait…..I forgot I have one in my shop also!
> - woodshaver Tony C
> 
> Where do you hire that great hand model?
> ...


LOL! "great hand model" It's my hand silly!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Susan is NOT so Lazy*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> ..... It s my hand silly!.....
> - woodshaver Tony C


OK, I'll *hand* it to you… all my producers hire *boot models*!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Susan is NOT so Lazy*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


I hope Degoose is watching, this is where the term Lazy Larry came from!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Susan is NOT so Lazy*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> I hope Degoose is watching, this is where the term Lazy Larry came from!
> 
> - robscastle


Don't know the gentleman, but I do know *de goose* is a slack bird…


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Susan is NOT so Lazy*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


You know him, or know of him, you possibly didnt recognise the name.

https://www.lumberjocks.com/degoose


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Susan is NOT so Lazy*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> You know him, or know of him, you possibly didnt recognise the name.
> 
> https://www.lumberjocks.com/degoose
> 
> - robscastle


Ah *dat goose*!


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Susan is NOT so Lazy*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> I hope Degoose is watching, this is where the term Lazy Larry came from!
> 
> - robscastle


easy buddy i dont know about degoose but i kinda take offence to that term ! ive been called many things my many people but only the wife calls me lazy-lol.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Susan is NOT so Lazy*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> ive been called many things my many people but only the wife calls me lazy-lol.
> - pottz


There you go *pottzy*, I've called you every adjective under the sun, but never lazy… so are we still friends?

I'm prepared to change my sex to Californian and help you fend off those bleligerant Aussies!


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Susan is NOT so Lazy*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> ive been called many things my many people but only the wife calls me lazy-lol.
> - pottz
> 
> There you go *pottzy*, I ve called you every adjective under the sun, but never lazy… so are we still friends?
> ...


you do come up with some good ones duckie but always with respect,your still good with me.i may have to get richard back and have a talk with RC though-lol.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Susan is NOT so Lazy*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Oh you got me all in a spin!!


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Susan is NOT so Lazy*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> Oh you got me all in a spin!!
> 
> - robscastle


this is what happens when family is more important than imaginary internet friends.now im hurt.gotta go pout…..sorry!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

*Perspex (Acrylic) Repair/CA Clean-up.*

*Boys and Girls*,

I opened my big mouth in one of my comments to a post and rather than live up to my reputation of being a liar, I thought I'd honor my pledge.

I am currently making a display case for my 60 yo(ish) heirloom (post to follow soon).
I was too chicken******************** to use glass, other than for delivery of vino to mouth, and decided to use Perspex. The thought of silicon tickled my fancy but not being ticklish and freakish, I decided to use CA glue…

Now CA in the hands of the competent is plausible, but in left hands of a right handed geriatric, if becomes a lethal weapon especially on the first finger adhesion, followed by 9 smudges across the face of the Perspex during the panic rescue extraction of said stuck digit.

Not only did I mess up the face, I also broke the joins revealing several unsightly seams that rendered the pane of Perspex a total pain









and useless requiring re-cutting and more gluing mishaps.

However, salvation is at hand. If you smear Perspex or suffer a premature ejaculation and have a blob in the centre of a face, immediately wipe it off.









DOH! You won't remove the CA, in fact, you will create an unsightly large smudge, however, the wiped layer will be thin and easier to perform surgery on.

I deliberately blobbed a glob of CA on the reverse side of this clean Perspex (the above piece after initial cleansing) for use to document this blog,








a few more blemishes (red border) on the reverse side to over-dramatise this presentation









There are many videos on how to remove scratches from acrylic using fine sandpaper, polishing compound and *elbow grease*… well I trained hard to get this body of mine with elbow bending without the grease.

Get out your ROS and depending on the damage, start with 180 grit… you may remove some buildup with a scraper and don't be afraid of dropping down to 100 and work up to 180 (and on). 
I quickly move the ROS over the rough spots till it appears/feels level. Keep the ROS moving so as not to overheat the Perspex in one spot. If it takes more than 30 seconds to get a satisfactory starting point, drop down a few grits again. 









I work my way up using 180, 240, 320, 500 and 1,000… only because that's all I have,









and don't forget to towel down after each monumental exertion,









Then it's off to the buffer.









I have a slow spend grinder (1,400 RPM) ideal for 8" buffers. I use the Beall Buffing system and swear by the quality of their buffs. I recommend you don't skimp and buy those cheap "home depot" type of buffs. They may function better once "broken in" but any monetary savings would be eroded if you cost the break in effort.

Using the Beall system, which starts with the *Tripoli* compound, 









followed by *white diamond* and finished with *carnauba wax*. I usually promote the job to white diamond to start buffing if I sand to 1,000. While you can start with the Tripoli, I find it redundant unless I stop sanding at 500/600 grit. A bit of trial and error wouldn't go astray, to find your best fit… there is no bad way as all you may err in is one too many passes at a lower grit/buff.

For Perspex, I sacrifice the carnauba wax for a *Plastx Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish* compound, 









but any any other plastic polish will suffice









You may even use EEE,








(however, I don't like the wax residue… having said that, I always clean up my jobs using alcohol,








deliberately avoiding the temptation to taste!)

This plastic polishing I move to the lathe and use a 4" buffing wheel rather than contaminating my 8" carnauba wax with the polish









The buff being only 4", I run the lathe at 2,000 RPM.

Again the acrylic had to be moved relatively fast to prevent over heating and potential distortion.

It's at this stage that you notice all those scratches and blemishes you thought was on the flip side, are actually on the active face and you're now faced with the chore of going back to the 180 ROS…

Being the nice guy that I am, I did make this quick dirty video (without the porn) for all you guys/galls that hate to read as much as I do, so you can view rather than read the above.

You will notice in the video that I savage the acrylic with my ROSing… rest assured it is not politically incorrect to brutalise Perspex… eventually you will see right through it!

*PS.* If you are a trhrillseeker, for big jobs, don't hesitate to take the buff to the job using a cordless drill,









it does as good a job, albeit much slower.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Perspex (Acrylic) Repair/CA Clean-up.*
> 
> *Boys and Girls*,
> 
> ...


too much reading your blog as usual so i went right to the live action which was entertaining and somewhat informative.you could have at least shown some cleavage during the buffing closeups.this is good info for those that screw things up,no use to me of course-lol.i only tease though,good blog duckie.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Perspex (Acrylic) Repair/CA Clean-up.*
> 
> *Boys and Girls*,
> 
> ...





> too much reading your blog …..
> 
> - pottz


I had 2 months worth of pent up writing that I had to be release!

You're also cheating by fast-tracking to the video without laboring through the written word ( and the ocassional happy-snap).


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Perspex (Acrylic) Repair/CA Clean-up.*
> 
> *Boys and Girls*,
> 
> ...





> too much reading your blog …..
> 
> - pottz
> 
> ...


hey thats your fault for throwing a tantrum! now do one more blog and you'll feel better-lol.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Perspex (Acrylic) Repair/CA Clean-up.*
> 
> *Boys and Girls*,
> 
> ...





> hey thats your fault for throwing a tantrum! now do one more blog and you ll feel better-lol.
> 
> - pottz


Not my fault… IT'S THOSE BLEEDING SIDEWAYS POSTERS… and they put rabbit breeding patterns to shame!

If only my bank balance grew as fast as the new ocurances.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Perspex (Acrylic) Repair/CA Clean-up.*
> 
> *Boys and Girls*,
> 
> ...





> hey thats your fault for throwing a tantrum! now do one more blog and you ll feel better-lol.
> 
> - pottz
> 
> ...


theirs that anger again ducks,now take a deep breath and let it out slowly.it's like being an alcoholic,oops sorry,like have anger management issues,ya just gotta let it go buddy were never gonna get these people to fix it.nobody seems to care,except maybe you and i.
hey i dont want to have do an intervention-LOL.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Perspex (Acrylic) Repair/CA Clean-up.*
> 
> *Boys and Girls*,
> 
> ...





> ..... it s like being an alcoholic…..
> - pottz


*pottzy*, I keep telling you that I'm a *drunk* NOT an *alcoholic*... *alcoholics* go to meetings!


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Perspex (Acrylic) Repair/CA Clean-up.*
> 
> *Boys and Girls*,
> 
> ...





> ..... it s like being an alcoholic…..
> - pottz
> 
> *pottzy*, I keep telling you that I m a *drunk* NOT an *alcoholic*... *alcoholics* go to meetings!
> ...


yeah me too,going to those meetings is like being at work,and hence the reason i drink.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Perspex (Acrylic) Repair/CA Clean-up.*
> 
> *Boys and Girls*,
> 
> ...





> yeah me too,going to those meetings is like being at work,and hence the reason i drink.
> - pottz


I'll drink to that!


----------



## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Perspex (Acrylic) Repair/CA Clean-up.*
> 
> *Boys and Girls*,
> 
> ...


I feel misled LBD. Your title says you were gonna "clean up" the CA. All you did was sand it off. Poor CA. Imagine my disappointment.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Perspex (Acrylic) Repair/CA Clean-up.*
> 
> *Boys and Girls*,
> 
> ...





> I feel misled LBD….
> 
> - HokieKen


Sorry about the confusion *Hoki*... being the son of a Hungarian fern cutter, I have trouble forming my words… I just don't know how to say *"Where's my drink?* in one coherent sentence.

I was gonna titled this post, 
*Under no circumstances make the blunder of employing tremulous hands while performing the operation of applying Cyanoacrylate glue out of a squeeze bottle onto clear (non-filmed) polymer (containing at least 85% acrylonitrile monomer) if your primary intention is to circumvent any accidental misapplication and you don't anticipate some form of chaos that the missus will refuse to rectify and you inevitably lose the opacity of the translucent media of the small display receptacle you are creating in an endeavor to provide a dust free environment for some past project!*" 
to ensure there is no confusion with my intentions, however, LJ are a tad mean on the title size so, with minimal consideration for my fellow man, I plucked an unrelated shorter title out of the air.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Perspex (Acrylic) Repair/CA Clean-up.*
> 
> *Boys and Girls*,
> 
> ...





> I feel misled LBD….
> 
> - HokieKen
> 
> ...


it's totally understandable of a duck coming out of hibernation from a long aussie winter,now have a drink and you'll be fine.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Perspex (Acrylic) Repair/CA Clean-up.*
> 
> *Boys and Girls*,
> 
> ...


I was a bit of a perspex bin diver bandit when I was younger made quite a few items and use some special glue.
I think I still have it if your interested in knowing what it is
BTW you don't glue perspex edges just run it along the seam and it wicks in!

-Regards Rob


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Perspex (Acrylic) Repair/CA Clean-up.*
> 
> *Boys and Girls*,
> 
> ...





> I was a bit of a perspex bin diver bandit when I was younger made quite a few items and use some special glue.
> I think I still have it if your interested in knowing what it is
> BTW you don t glue perspex edges just run it along the seam and it wicks in!
> 
> ...


Thanks *rc*, yes I would be interested…

How do you glue the seam (I assume using the glue you are referring to)?

Do you "clamp the pieces together and run it down the outside seam… What about overflow or what doesn't wick in…

Notwithstanding my abortive use of CA… I suppose the primary purpose of this article was about how you can easily clean up big defects in perspex without using the gentle touch.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Perspex (Acrylic) Repair/CA Clean-up.*
> 
> *Boys and Girls*,
> 
> ...





> ..... BTW you don t glue perspex edges just run it along the seam and it wicks in!
> 
> -Regards Rob
> 
> - robscastle


Never thought about surfing the WEB for gluing perspex… After your enlightenment, I did a quick Google and came up with this hit... thanks.

*PS.* Did some more (UGH!) reading and found out about the glue… hazardous material and will not air freight… any idea where I can buy locally? Did a search and could not find any local supplier… maybe I'm looking at the wrong thing (???).


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Perspex (Acrylic) Repair/CA Clean-up.*
> 
> *Boys and Girls*,
> 
> ...


Acrifix 192















Wait don't play it I will look for something more suitable!

https://www.acrifix.com/product/acrifix/downloads/391-20-acrifix-1r-0192-en.pdf

https://www.acrifix.com/product/acrifix/en/products/reaction-adhesives/acrifix-1r-0192/

Plastral Pty Ltd

Address: 370 Darebin Road
Thornbury VIC 3071 
Phone: +61 3 9490-0111
Fax: +61 3 9490-0123
E‑mail: Contact Form

Plastral Pty Ltd

Australia, Victoria (VIC)

I would normally use my sander but somebody pinched it!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Perspex (Acrylic) Repair/CA Clean-up.*
> 
> *Boys and Girls*,
> 
> ...


who threw a tanti?

I watched the video, yep I have made the same dumb ass mistakes trying to polish out a defect on the other side.
Hey is that a new tool your using? Must be bloody well balanced !! I am impressed.

Where did you buy the white diamond and Tripoli bars from?

How many of those monkey shirts have you got? and where did you buy them I want one!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Perspex (Acrylic) Repair/CA Clean-up.*
> 
> *Boys and Girls*,
> 
> ...


Don't pay too much attention to Pottzy he has possibly been hiding in his bunker from wild fires tornadoes or the Don!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Perspex (Acrylic) Repair/CA Clean-up.*
> 
> *Boys and Girls*,
> 
> ...


CA sales must have peaked in Brizzie with all the dingbats glueing themselves on the road here.

They wouldn't want to be there if I was out on my bike unless they wanted a tyre pattern on their shirt
or be shown how to remove a bra with one little rev !


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Perspex (Acrylic) Repair/CA Clean-up.*
> 
> *Boys and Girls*,
> 
> ...


Hey its raining here Yee Haa send more Huey!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Perspex (Acrylic) Repair/CA Clean-up.*
> 
> *Boys and Girls*,
> 
> ...


Speaking of porn have you seen a movie called wild orchid its old but wow!
Also spare a thought for Ant man in Hong Kong at the moment really gone bad there in a big way!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Perspex (Acrylic) Repair/CA Clean-up.*
> 
> *Boys and Girls*,
> 
> ...


Hey My next project is assembling two electric bikes!



















My work with Smiths has eventually wound up, after 5 years I repaired 1321 crates for them.

Here is the lucky last


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Perspex (Acrylic) Repair/CA Clean-up.*
> 
> *Boys and Girls*,
> 
> ...


I wonder what they are going to do with them all now?



















need a crate or three?


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Perspex (Acrylic) Repair/CA Clean-up.*
> 
> *Boys and Girls*,
> 
> ...





> Don t pay too much attention to Pottzy he has possibly been hiding in his bunker from wild fires tornadoes or the Don!
> 
> - robscastle


not hiding boys just busy with things other than lj's b-s.oh hey glad your back rc,that is you right,it's been awhile so i gotta check id's,sorry it's a 911 thing here.so rc since the ducks melt down,tantrum whatever you want to call it were just humoring him,we dont really care about polishing persperation x or whatever the hell this thread is about,we just want to keep him calm.so i hear your the electric bike king or prince of australia.hey just dont forget us small guys that supported you bud,peace.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Perspex (Acrylic) Repair/CA Clean-up.*
> 
> *Boys and Girls*,
> 
> ...





> They wouldn t want to be there if I was out on my bike unless they wanted a tyre pattern on their shirt….
> - robscastle


To quote *Kerrianne*... use them as *speed humps*!


> Acrifix 192
> - robscastle


Reading (UGH!) the instructions (actually the Dutch video was easier to handle)... no wicking with that stuff (???)... application seems no different than thrillseeking with CA.


> who threw a tanti?


 *C'est moi*! After the proliferation of sideways pictures with the odd upside down ones… 


> Hey is that a new tool your using? Must be bloody well balanced !! I am impressed.


You referring to the ROS? It's a *Mirka* (I have a bucket load of sanders) and when it comes to sanding (it makes a shizenhousen hammer) only my *Rotex* beats it. 


> Where did you buy the white diamond and Tripoli bars from?


I got them with my Beall polishing system... as I was already paying for postage, I ordered a few spare bars (one of my many foibles… can't have enough consumables/spare parts).


> How many of those monkey shirts have you got? and where did you buy them I want one!
> - robscastle


Only one… but it's so large that it seems to get into all my videos.

Actually I made it myself from material I bought from the market about 10 years ago. I knew my dressmaking course would come in handy one day… when it was new, it matched my high heels, and only with age did it get relegated to the workshop.
When I drink I put it on… better than seeing pink elephants!



> ..... hey just dont forget us small guys….
> - pottz


Depends on what you refer to as small *pottzy*... rumor has it you want to go metric so your 4" can be called a meter… however, I hear your girth is a large tad shy of small…


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Perspex (Acrylic) Repair/CA Clean-up.*
> 
> *Boys and Girls*,
> 
> ...


Yeah I have gotta agree the BS has been coming thick and fast lately…poor Cricket!

Luna Cycles sell the bikes in the USA I think.

Here is No 1 son busy at work doing ADR (Australian Design Rules) Mods.
European standards are not good enough for bloody Australian Bureaucrats !!

I think he is actually doing a pre delivery spoke tension check.

The USA go metric …never!!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Perspex (Acrylic) Repair/CA Clean-up.*
> 
> *Boys and Girls*,
> 
> ...





> The USA go metric …never!!
> - robscastle


Exactly like global warming


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Perspex (Acrylic) Repair/CA Clean-up.*
> 
> *Boys and Girls*,
> 
> ...





> Speaking of porn have you seen a movie called wild orchid its old but wow!
> - robscastle


No I hadn't, but now I have… the whole 105 minutes of disgusting filth! I put on pause 20 times so I could say my prayers in between!


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Perspex (Acrylic) Repair/CA Clean-up.*
> 
> *Boys and Girls*,
> 
> ...


hey rc you go man and help #1 all you can bro because he's gonna kick ass with your help and im proud to know you for what you do.hey i talk s##t but i respect what your doin my ausisie friend.peace and keep it comin!!!!!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Perspex (Acrylic) Repair/CA Clean-up.*
> 
> *Boys and Girls*,
> 
> ...





> - robscastle


Reminds me of the closing scene in *Raiders of the Lost Arc*!!

SO what do they do? Shred the crates to make chips?


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

*Funnel Vision.*

*Boys* and *Girls*.

A little gem from the annals of the black duck… just don't get the number of *"n"*s mixed up.

While I don't go out of my way to save a few shekels, this little tip may save some, for those more frugal than me.

For Christmas, I wanted to make up a batch of Black Russian and I needed a funnel to guide my shaking hands to direct the liquid back into the bottles (after mixing). As my diet doesn't include paint encrusted funnels, I was in need of a clean one… on one of the few days a year that all shops are closed.

What I have done is stockpiled some of these plastic cocktail glasses 









which cost something like $10 for 20 (may have been even cheaper) in my local BigW store (all you non-Aussies may need to Google). 









I toss away the base (red)









and just keep the top with the tip (green) cut off. I use a Japanese saw (tried others but I found the Jap saw did the neatest job) to cut off the sealed bottom and wiped away the plastic swarf. 









Quick wipe with a rag and I had a perfect clean functioning funnel 









to assist me in killing (apologies for the violence) more brain cells. 









A duck doesn't live on vino alone!


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Funnel Vision.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*.
> 
> ...


"jap saw" duckie very politically incorrect my winged friend,but being who i am ill over look it.when it comes to alchohol consumption leave it to the duck to figure out a way to get the job,or shall i say the mix done.so those plastic party glasses what ya got,say a hundred or two? cheers buddy.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Funnel Vision.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*.
> 
> ...


Yeah duckie get the terminology right its a Nip saw.!


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Funnel Vision.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*.
> 
> ...





> Yeah duckie get the terminology right its a Nip saw.!
> 
> - robscastle


oh my god!havn't you already been down this road rc.hey listen it's been nice knowin you two,but i dont know who you are,-"right"!!! pottz out..


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Funnel Vision.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*.
> 
> ...





> .... very politically incorrect….
> - pottz


Only on one occasion… the first reference was for the benefit of the upper class. 


> Yeah duckie get the terminology right its a *Nip* saw.!
> - robscastle


Is that a *Nip* as in *measure of alcohol* or as a precursor to *and tuck*?

So much for being a nice guy/duck… hope your funnels get a new resident…








then we'll see which saw you reach for… let's hear some politically correct language then!


----------



## LeeRoyMan (Feb 23, 2019)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Funnel Vision.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*.
> 
> ...


I wanted a Black Russian for Christmas too, but the only way I could have one was through mail order brides.

Nice tip with the party glass. I'll keep that in mind, for more than just BR's


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Funnel Vision.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*.
> 
> ...


any body got the mail order address? if so may I please have it but send it via ducky or pottzy please cause if my wife finds out I will be needing one for sure.
At at least she cannot "chuck me out" my tools are too heavy!!


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Funnel Vision.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*.
> 
> ...





> any body got the mail order address? if so may I please have it but send it via ducky or pottzy please cause if my wife finds out I will be needing one for sure.
> At at least she cannot "chuck me out" my tools are too heavy!!
> 
> - robscastle


hell if i get it you'll never see it rc,ive always wanted some good vodka.cheers boys.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Funnel Vision.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*.
> 
> ...


OK some abranet education
Nip comes fron the word Nippon meaning Japan

or from todays language:-

nip1/nɪp/verb
verb: nip; 3rd person present: nips; past tense: nipped; past participle: nipped; gerund or present participle: nipping

1.
bite or pinch sharply.
"one of the dogs nipped him on the leg" 
h
Similar:
bite, nibble, peck, pinch, tweak, squeeze, grip
(of the cold or frost) damage or hurt.
"the vegetable garden, nipped now by frost" 
remove something by pinching or squeezing sharply.
"he nipped off a length of wire with the cutters" 
2.
informal•British
go quickly.
"I'm just nipping down to the Post Office"

Similar:
go, rush, dash, dart, hurry, scurry, scamper,
drop by/in/into/round
stop by
visit
tootle
pop
whip
3.
informal•US
steal or snatch (something).

noun
noun: nip; plural noun: nips

a sharp bite or pinch.
"a strong beak which can deliver a serious nip" 
h
Similar:
bite, nibble, peck, pinch, tweak, squeeze, grip or a feeling of biting cold.
"a keen nip in the air"

Phrases
in the nip
in the nude; naked. "they were running round in the nip" 
nip something in the bud
suppress or destroy something at an early stage. "the idea has been nipped in the bud by the local council" 
Origin


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Funnel Vision.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*.
> 
> ...





> .... in the nude; naked. "they were running round in the nip"
> - robscastle


Like a duck without pants… *Viki* with a *W* has a lot to answer to!... and you guys call me PIC!


----------



## tyvekboy (Feb 24, 2010)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Funnel Vision.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*.
> 
> ...


Great funnel tip. Thanks.

Noticed you like Kalua. With your hot weather, you and other Aussies may like this cool recipe.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Funnel Vision.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*.
> 
> ...





> Great funnel tip. Thanks.
> - tyvekboy


Hope it helped *ty'*... It is great to have funnels on demand and not waste cleanning fluids on funnels when used for paint… just toss and cut another. Also the *culinary master-crafts-person* of the house, some may refer to as *SWMBO* (my *PIC* (*P*olitical *I*n*C*orrectness) *Meter* is flashing overtime) can find a clean one for all those masterful creations (did the grovelling work?). 
I use them in the workshop all the time, it's just that I needed a "new" one for my *BR* and decided to post as a tip, between drinks. 
The only hassle is to search for the right type of "flute"... which may depreciate any shekel savings you might inspire to.


> .... Noticed you like *Kalua*....
> - tyvekboy


You guys spell *alcohol* a funny way!

*PS.* What is and where do you get that thing you called *milk*?


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Funnel Vision.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*.
> 
> ...


yeah i dont know about that milk thing,i dont think id go with the vino too well ducks,and all it's gonna do with the hard alcohol is dilute it,makes no sense to me.now if you'll excuse me it's vino time,later.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Funnel Vision.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*.
> 
> ...





> .... if you ll excuse me it s vino time,later.
> - pottz


Cheese *pottzy* you trying to put my cardiac prescriptions to the test??? Is that *vino time later in the day*, or *vino time, c u later*.

Forgive him *Tyv*, after all he's a Yankee and not one of the good guys!.... *OOPS, just listened to the lyrics (40 years since originally) and it's gross PIC… so stay clear if you're sensitive!*


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Funnel Vision.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*.
> 
> ...





> .... if you ll excuse me it s vino time,later.
> - pottz
> 
> Cheese *pottzy* you trying to put my cardiac prescriptions to the test??? Is that *vino time later in the day*, or *vino time, c u later*.
> ...


that was vino time in the spa at 2pm ducks,sorry if you ticker cant take it.enjoying a nice pinot by the fire on the patio right now,that would be 4:15 pm for you upside downers.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Funnel Vision.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*.
> 
> ...





> .... patio right now,that would be *4:15*....
> - pottz


*potttzy*, you are *psycho*... and btw, no mathematician… your decimal point was a tad out…
It's *41.5°C *here….








we had an APB and were warned to move…. I moved my chair next to the fridge… today, even a cask needs to be chilled!

*Luck to all East Gippslanders!*


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Funnel Vision.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*.
> 
> ...


yikes thats too damn hot for a duck,you best fly down here and cool off,only 62f today.man you guys have been having a brutle summer and it's only begun.i read the fires are wiping the koalas out.well get inside the fridge and wait it out.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Funnel Vision.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*.
> 
> ...





> .... get inside the fridge and wait it out.
> - pottz


Thanks for the concern *pottzy*... but where do I put my casks of vino… expose them to the elements?... NEVER!

Yeah the weather has been a mongrel… but this duck has found a way to beat it… go inside and crank the heater up full blast, so when you go outside it feels cooler! Who says alcohol kills brain cells?


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Funnel Vision.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*.
> 
> ...


.... get inside the fridge and wait it out.
- pottz

Thanks for the concern *pottzy*... but where do I put my casks of vino… expose them to the elements?... NEVER!

Yeah the weather has been a mongrel… but this duck has found a way to beat it… go inside and crank the heater up full blast, so when you go outside it feels cooler! Who says alcohol kills brain cells?

- LittleBlackDuck
[/QUOTE]

now thats ducknology 101,true dedication.that's why i worship you-cheers.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

*In the Eye of the Dowel!*

*Boys* and *Girls*,

We all have our secrets in finding the centre of a dowel, however, unless you were on the quest of finding *rc*'s wallet (which is empty) in my workshop, you may have not come across my method.

Most of us use standard sized dowels, whether fabricated, purchased or other unorthodox means.
Nevertheless they tend to fit into holes made by traditional sized forstner bits.
That same forstner bit makes the ideal centre finder.

Grab a block of timber, in accordance with your desires, and drill a forstner bore of your desired diameter, or don't take note and use a calliper to measure it….


















You can then use the forstner tip to drill the hole right through the block. Just ensure you have an instrument to go all the way through and as close to its diameter to prevent play,
For the centering hole, I start with 2.5mm as that's the tip of my forstner bits and then use the bigger boy 4mm drill bit which is the same diameter as my centre punch… 









From here on it's not too difficult to follow the bouncing ball… and if it stops bouncing, just hope it doesn't roll under that immovable machinery.

















the hole IS there,









Now there are a quite a few other centre finders of which I'm showing you two…
And as *Goldie*, who couldn't keep a *lock* on her mouth, says, too small,








too big








just right,









Do not try this without a dowel… and square dowels may yield inaccurate results.


----------



## oldrivers (Feb 10, 2014)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *In the Eye of the Dowel!*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Pretty Neat trick, thanks for sharing.


----------



## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *In the Eye of the Dowel!*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


simply 1 GR8 idea … there is always several ways to skin a cat . dog . or duck :<))))


----------



## Pjonesy (Feb 20, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *In the Eye of the Dowel!*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Good idea LBD. Hope you don't mind me adding to your idea. Usually the reason for finding the center of the dowel is to bore a hole up the dowel. The best way I have found to stop the drill bit wandering is to put the dowel in the drill chuck and the drill bit in a vice line it up on the centering mark clamp it down and bore away. works perfect every time.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *In the Eye of the Dowel!*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> ... Hope you don t mind me adding to your idea…
> - Pjonesy


Not at all *Pj*... the more info that can be crammed into an idea/tip the wiser we can all be.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *In the Eye of the Dowel!*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Wonderful idea, clever and easy.
Smiles,
Mads


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *In the Eye of the Dowel!*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


once again you teach me something,problem is tomorrow it's gone.so here's my plan,you adopt me and when you die i get that laboratory you refer to as a workshop along with all it's secrets.some of which only nasa and the donald are privey…......ive already said too much,sorry.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *In the Eye of the Dowel!*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> once again you teach me something,problem is *tomorrow* it s *gone*....
> - pottz


And that leads me into the lesson for today…..

Tomorrow is never gone… there's another tomorrow queuing up every day.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *In the Eye of the Dowel!*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


GR8HUNTER that's plucka duck BTW
hey Hey!

get some auzzie in ya ...turn the bloody volume up too mug!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *In the Eye of the Dowel!*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> ..... that's plucka duck…..
> - robscastle


Thanks *rc*... that brings back fond memories to me…. those were the days when *PIC* (*P*olitical *I*n*C*orectness) was yet to be invented and ducks could let it all hand out and run around without trousers.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *In the Eye of the Dowel!*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


aussie entrertainment at it's best i assume? ducks without pants though,lets keep em on


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *In the Eye of the Dowel!*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> ..... ducks without pants though,lets keep em on
> - pottz


One must choose their words carefully,..... mustn't one? Keep on the pants or keep on the ducks without pants???... Personally, I like the breeze!


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *In the Eye of the Dowel!*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> ..... ducks without pants though,lets keep em on
> - pottz
> 
> One must choose their words carefully,..... mustn t one? Keep on the pants or keep on the ducks without pants???... Personally, I like the breeze!
> ...


*T-M-I DUCKS* im getting visions in my head i dont want-yikes!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *In the Eye of the Dowel!*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> .... im getting visions in my head….
> - pottz


Hey *pottzy*, you're the one quoting we're *woodworkers*...









or should I just call you *Johnny H*.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *In the Eye of the Dowel!*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> .... im getting visions in my head….
> - pottz
> 
> Hey *pottzy*, you re the one quoting we re *woodworkers*...
> ...


man i fell right into that one-ha!

pretty soon cricket will have to start rating our post's,you may not make it-lol.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *In the Eye of the Dowel!*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


well its time for some more good Aussie entertainment from Dazza AKA LBD in his spa


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *In the Eye of the Dowel!*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> well its time for some more good Aussie entertainment from Dazza AKA LBD in his spa
> 
> 
> 
> ...


hilarious how did you get video of the duck in his spa drinking vino.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *In the Eye of the Dowel!*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> .... the duck…dinking vino.
> - pottz


C'mon *pottzy*... it's a 24×7 event… Roll the camera (anywhere/anytime) and it's eventually gonna happen!

"Thx" *rc* (NOT)... now I've gotta explain the stains in the spa to the missus!


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *In the Eye of the Dowel!*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> .... the duck…dinking vino.
> - pottz
> 
> C mon *pottzy*... it s a 24×7 event… Roll the camera (anywhere/anytime) and it s eventually gonna happen!
> ...


hey it's ok weve all been there,some more than others-lol. hey you got any dirt on *rc?*


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *In the Eye of the Dowel!*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Couldn't get in for an early reply… Thought Cricket did a *googly* on me!

Now back to my caustic self!


> ..... hey it' s ok weve all been there…...
> - pottz


Wot! You stain your spa too? Not in MY spot I hope!... I was taught it was a duck *cloaca* thing….


> ..... you got any dirt on *rc?*
> - pottz


Not since I last buried him… Just gagging… we don't bury our mistakes here in Churchill… plots are far too expensive… we just put shoes on them (not high heels) and let them smell!
Probably scheming up a DT3 using just 1 plank with *antman* or he's just jealous of our better fires here in Victoria,
*Sorry Aussies and similar affecties… just inappropriatly making "light heart" of a dire situation…

Go fieries*... with profound thanks (all over the world… not enough acknowledgement gets thrust your way) and hope they fry the *fire bugs*... another reserved, tongue in cheek blurt… (perhaps)...


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *In the Eye of the Dowel!*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


your tryin to burn me!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *In the Eye of the Dowel!*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> your tryin to burn me!
> - robscastle


Hard to ignite a wet wick! My match has a limited reach… any further South and you are talking penguins..

WTF you ask?... I have too for the last 10 or so minutes!

't least *pottzy* (et tout) can now go back to their admiration of sideways pictures.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *In the Eye of the Dowel!*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Oh its all gobbildy gock to me


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *In the Eye of the Dowel!*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


you boys should't play with fire or someone will get hurt!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *In the Eye of the Dowel!*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> Oh its all gobbildy gock to me
> - robscastle


Gobble it up baby… I've got a full cask, leave-pass from my doctor, the straight jacket is playing limbo and I'm up to my neck in small horses…. *morei-sh* to come!



> you boys should t play with fire…
> - pottz


I singed my eye *browse* and now blasted *Google* doesn't work!


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *In the Eye of the Dowel!*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Now this is a very useful idea Ducky…. I may just have to make one, Thank you…


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

*Safety in Numbers.*

*Boys* and *girls*,

When it comes to security, my ample body is guarded by a whalebone girdle, however, the contents of my residence is guarded by a combination lock.

I wanted to review my combination lock, however, I thought a blog on pros and cons of combination locks in general would be better suited. I have grouped it under Workshop Tips as it is just as applicable to the workshop as to the house.

While a combination lock removes the need to carry keys around, it does infer some degree of memory retention of a few chosen numbers.

When I moved into my Richmond (Cremorne for the upper class) residence in 1990, I was concerned that hostile visiting benefactors may donate some worthwhile items in my residence while I was away and I was not prepared to accept the additional clutter.

After consultation with a locksmith, I concluded that a combination lock may be the way to control uninvited access to *mycastle* (eat your heart out *rc*). 
As renovations became more profound, I had to provide access to tradies. Now I used a 5 digit access code (with one being "Y"), of which I pre-coded 4 digits and instruct them to just enter "Y" to provide access (won't go into my tirade that some people couldn't spell "Y"… probably the same that are still looking for the X … it was a one time only access so if they were there for the day and had to go out, the place was either left open or they couldn't get in again as the 4 pre-entered numbers would get wiped.

Moved to Churchill in 2010 and took myself, including the combo. Fitted the lock to my front door (didn't think it was constructive to fit to the neighbors… they would have complained anyway as I knew the combination). Bugger them!

Wallowed through the annals of time and many tradies were revelling in the "Y" access, and one day I found this *Samsung* digital lock in Bunnings… 









telling you the *door is open/closed*. DOH! As if I'm gonna walk through a closed door (when I'm sober). It also comes with one of these magnetic keychain dongles 









that you can attach to that keychain, you now don't carry around as you have the combination lock… who invents these things?

The beauty of these digital locks are,

Digit entry sequence is enforced adding greater security for key set-ups with few numbers. Digits can also be repeated as with the manual, you push the button once and it's set.
Can have many different combinations.
Card entry for those *memory blocking adventures*, upon staggering home.
If you are stupid, you can still choose to use a key. 
The keypad lights up and is clearly legible in the dark.

What I have found that when it comes to tradies (or any temporary foreign access) I use their mobile number as their entry code and delete it after the job is done.

Not that I'm overly security conscious, affectively I have 5 different access points (with internal/external and some double locks) to the house with security doors over some… that adds up to 18 keyed alike locks… If a dodgy tradie decided to copy a loaned key, that'd be 18 new tumblers at $25 each +inconvenience I'd have to replace. I've done this elsewhere in the past, but then I only had 2 locks to consider.

You may notice that there is still a manual combination lock above the digital on the front door… 








the reason is that the Samsung digital cannot be secured from the inside. The lock can be engaged but anyone can open it from the inside.. 








The manual has a 2 way deadlock that secures both inside and outside. I use this as well for prolonged trips from the house… normally it's left unlocked.

I had the normal Lockwood deadlocks on one of my backdoors and a manual combination on the workshop (inside was lockable). Again you may see 2 locks on my workshop… I do not use the lower circular lock (except on long trips).

I was strolling through Bunnings one day, *looking for things I could afford but did not need* and came across a digital version of the *Lockwood* manual combination deadlock. 

















My backyard Bunnings did not carry this line when I bought the *Samsung*. 
The beauty of these locks was that you can replace the outside keypad and retain the inside keyed lock.









it also comes with a magnetised credit card sized access "key" that fits snugly into a wallet,









providing it's not packed out with currency notes (your wallets safe *rc*)... Just don't confuse it with your Dan Murphy's card,









as it sends shop security buzzers troppo!

Now here in Victoria, our "ever caring" government decided to pass a law that a spa environment has to be kiddie secure… 1 week after I bought my new spa…
I had to fence it in and make entries secure. Fortunately, now I had a location for the old manual combination locks,









Unfortunately in this electronic age we are continually faced with battery issues… no, not getting beaten up (well, yes, that can be an issue) but running out of juice. For me, I am fortunate that with 3 digital combination locks they should not all run out at the same time and on prolonged trips I do take a key with me as backup on one of the keyed entry.
Alternatively the *Samsung* has a "backup" key (if you carry it around based on your keyless principle).
A "dead" *Lockwood* can be jump started with a 9V battery… and we all carry one around… actually the workshop has one of these locks right behind where I park the car and I always (repeat always) carry at least one of these 9V torches 

















(hell I can see another review coming up) in the car.

Word of warning… never advertised in the spruiking literature, an adverse sun on the keypad could block out visibility of the numbers…. for me that was a big gotcha as I had to cup the keypad to see, however, was rectified when I built the carport in front/over the door.

While on the topic of ????

The *Samsung* opens automatically on correct key entry… the *Lockwood* still requires a turn of the knob… and a correct key… the decision is yours… "hands free" or drop the package to turn the knob.
The *Samsung* has ease of criminal exit… the *Lockwood* needs a key (or a hacksaw/sledge hammer) to exit. The latter not an issue in most workshops…
*Samsung* uses 2 batteries… *Lockwood* uses 4 and lasts twice as long and easier to replace. 
*Samsung* uses aster (***) to confirm entry… *Lockwood* tells you you're an idiot with the same key. A mix of the two (which I have) can be confusing/frustrating.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Safety in Numbers.*
> 
> *Boys* and *girls*,
> 
> ...


OMG I gunna get some revenge soon'

hey I got a Santa delivery!


----------



## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Safety in Numbers.*
> 
> *Boys* and *girls*,
> 
> ...


LBD,

I hope you have better success with your digital locks than we have had. The workshop lock worked great for about two years. Then the batteries were weak and we replaced them. It wouldn't work right. Sometimes it would lock but virtually never unlock. I thought we needed better quality batteries (even though they tested okay). After messing around with it umpteen times, replacing/reinstalling batteries, etc., etc., I called the lock company to ask for assistance. When I told them it was two years old, I was told I needed to replace it because two years is "industry standard" for longevity on digital locks. I still think there is some kind of reset that needs to be done, and that I just talked to a lazy customer service employee, but for now I'm using my key. Since then the even newer digital lock on the house quit just like the shop lock. One of these days, I'll order an old fashioned manual push button lock. I can't afford to keep replacing digital locks every two years!

L/W


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Safety in Numbers.*
> 
> *Boys* and *girls*,
> 
> ...





> hey I got a Santa delivery!
> - robscastle


That is one purchase I don't think you'll regret…


> I hope you have better success with your digital locks than we have had….
> - lightweightladylefty


That is strange *lwll*... This post was years in the making as I've had my locks for a few years now.

Did you buy a "brand" name or a "fly-by-night" variety. One of mine has literally weathered (before I put in the car port over it) the storms and all have gone through around 4 or 5 battery transplants. Though the 4 yo has always been under cover.

Sorry to hear your issues, however, if I ever suffer the same fate, I'd still sacrifice shekels for convenience…


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Safety in Numbers.*
> 
> *Boys* and *girls*,
> 
> ...


I don't think they are designed for operation by left handed people


----------



## sansoo22 (May 7, 2019)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Safety in Numbers.*
> 
> *Boys* and *girls*,
> 
> ...





> LBD,
> 
> I hope you have better success with your digital locks than we have had. The workshop lock worked great for about two years. Then the batteries were weak and we replaced them. It wouldn t work right. Sometimes it would lock but virtually never unlock. I thought we needed better quality batteries (even though they tested okay). After messing around with it umpteen times, replacing/reinstalling batteries, etc., etc., I called the lock company to ask for assistance. When I told them it was two years old, I was told I needed to replace it because two years is "industry standard" for longevity on digital locks. I still think there is some kind of reset that needs to be done, and that I just talked to a lazy customer service employee, but for now I m using my key. Since then the even newer digital lock on the house quit just like the shop lock. One of these days, I ll order an old fashioned manual push button lock. I can t afford to keep replacing digital locks every two years!
> 
> ...


I'm pretty big into home automation. I have little google minis throughout the house that swear at me from time to time if i ask the wrong thing. Custom scripting and what not gets this done. Anyway I still dont have a smart lock because too many of the long term reviews mention issues that you're having. Its a shame really because its the last thing I really need to make the place aware of my presence but like you said I dont want to drop 2 bills per lock every couple years on 3 new locks.

LBD - There is a saying we have in the states about Australia…"The whole place is trying to kill you"...it made me chuckles when i saw all the locks. Many of us are afraid of all your wildlife. Including the roos…they might look cute but I dont trust them.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Safety in Numbers.*
> 
> *Boys* and *girls*,
> 
> ...





> I m pretty big into home automation….
> - sansoo22


I've gone stupid too… don't *sas* me… over home automation… though most of our gizmos are still limited to lights, switches and powerpoints…

My few friends call me a lazy bastard, however, I like to inform him that I now get more exercise with all my smart devices than previously. I have so many, that often I have to walk over 30 meters to check my whiteboard to remember what I called that stupid thing,








Was going to relegate my digital lock to a surveilace camera/lock supervised by *Alexa*, but those stupid designers didn't consider security-screen doors… at least not here in Oz.

*BTW.*. It's not the *roos* (or *salties*) we need to worry about here in Churchill… It's the little old ladies with poor eyesight and bad aim, wielding shotguns, that we need to steer clear of as they prefer to deck out their trophy walls with 70+ geriatric pensioner taxidermy.


----------



## sansoo22 (May 7, 2019)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Safety in Numbers.*
> 
> *Boys* and *girls*,
> 
> ...


My house is still under development as I renovate so I often forget which rooms I put the smarts in. Especially closets…im yelling at google while i fumble in the dark…get frustrated and storm into the office to check the server…only to find i never installed the mag switch and hue bulb in that closet so there's no way in hell it could turn on.

It's pretty crazy how little time it takes for us to adjust to things just happening auto-magically…at my old house if the internet went out i was never sure how to go to bed. If i couldnt just say "Hey google its bed time" and watch all the lights turn out and my cricket sounds play i was lost.

The google lady in the kitchen is the one that swears at me the most…but the real life kitchen lady also swears like a sailor so its really no different.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Safety in Numbers.*
> 
> *Boys* and *girls*,
> 
> ...





> ... im yelling at google while i fumble in the dark…


At least a *Google display* will echo back the dickhead command you made… *Alexa* have you guessing what you said wrong… all she tells you is you cocked up with unintelligent gibberish..


> ...at my old house if the internet went out…


At your new house if the internet went out… Both *alexa* and *Google* turn into bloody paper weights and you quickly need to remember how to manually flip a switch…
To top it all off, if the 'lectricity fails and then eventually reconnects, all those bloody devices turn on like a modern *D-Day invasion*... the only good thing about it is you can say *turn all off* and bang, off goes the electric blanket in the middle of winter… DOH!

One of the better options I have found is to say *Alex… Wake me up to 3AW radio at 8:00am* any date well into the future and not just for the next day.
*SWMBO* loves it when she ask *Alex… am I too heavy?* and the reply is *Don't know watcha talkin' 'bout!*


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Safety in Numbers.*
> 
> *Boys* and *girls*,
> 
> ...


I don't see wallet listed anywhere on the whiteboard


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Safety in Numbers.*
> 
> *Boys* and *girls*,
> 
> ...





> I don t see wallet listed anywhere on the whiteboard
> - robscastle


T'was so heavy with money, I had to dedicate a white board just for it…


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

*Quick connect "Dusty" extraction.*

*Boys* and *Girls*,

If you tend to share your 100mm diameter dust extraction between your machinery, you may find these *100mm DWV PVC Standard Pan Collar* fitted at the action end of the hose handy.









and just slip over the 100mm "machinery" outlet,



























You may need to "cheat",



























When you start with a new one,









You may need to use a bit of effort, but they will loosen up. Afterwards, even as they loosen up, the suction will keep them attaches as they do a very good seal (arf…arf..)…
I have all my extenders rigged with these suckers,










For all you imperialists, feel free to skip back and substitute 4" for 100mm.


----------



## ddockstader (Jun 21, 2009)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Quick connect "Dusty" extraction.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Man, now I have another reason to visit Australia! Nothing like that here in the States. That looks awesome.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Quick connect "Dusty" extraction.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> Man, now I have another reason to visit Australia! Nothing like that here in the States. That looks awesome.
> - ddockstader


Sorry *ddock'*, never even considered that scenario…


----------



## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Quick connect "Dusty" extraction.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


look in plumbing dept.
Here in Europe, this is used to connect toilet bowl to waste pipe.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Quick connect "Dusty" extraction.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> look in plumbing dept.
> - Sylvain


100% correct *Sylvain*... again I'm jumping to conclusions and assumed everyone has a dunny and were common items.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Quick connect "Dusty" extraction.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


I hope you remember to return it to its original location by the completion of your work.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Quick connect "Dusty" extraction.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


How I fixed the same problem, originally I also used the same collar method this worked well until one day I forgot to replace it and used the toilet, so I soon found a better way and kept me out of the poo

I heated up a section of 90mm PVC pipe and bunged it on the dust port while it was still hot.










Then clamped a flex hose on the other end.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Quick connect "Dusty" extraction.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Now that's a briliant way,









to shape your faeces… nothing like giving the S-bend an even break… and you may be able to forgo the heat gun after a good dose of chillis… I can send you some Jerky!


----------



## clagwell (Dec 20, 2018)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Quick connect "Dusty" extraction.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


I've not seen that style of commode seal here. I'll look the next time I'm in the plumbing section.

Another approach, if you're patient, is to cut threads in a standard PVC coupling that match the hose.










3D printing is a lot more fun though.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Quick connect "Dusty" extraction.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> I ve not seen that style of commode seal here…


The benefit of the pan collar is that it slips on and off in a second. I only use it for interchangeable extraction between side by side machines that are not permanently plumbed in. 
Must admit that I do take pleasure in some of my 3D prints for the workshop, however, I'd hate to thread onto a 3D printed collar and have to rotate my bandsaw to relieve the twist.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

*Cleaning a Cleaner.*

*Boys* and *Girls*,

You may be wondering what this is all about, however, if you weren't following the bouncing ball you may have arrived here before the drinks refreshment cart. 
For those that are now perplexed, may I suggest you peruse my blog about *Stupid Ideas/Buys* on Bricking up a house-vac. 

However, with this offering…
*You get to kill two birds with one stone*... and by that I don't mean *a bloody big stone on two tiny little birds*…
You get,

a Stupid Ideas/Buys instalment (elsewhere).
a handy *Workshop Operational Tips* instalment (here).

*How I extricated myself.*

I remembered my Perspex (Acrylic) Repair/CA Clean-up. blog and thought that a cordless "buff" and some auto-polish 









may be my salvation.

Removed the *opaque bin* from the Dyson 









and smeared a good coating of polish on the inside. Mounted the drill with one of the pads I used for cleaning up the Perspex and buffed away,









After a few minutes I replaced the Dyson with the *clear bin*… at least *clearer*.









Moral of the story is that if you have enough useless tools in your workshop, you'll eventually find something that will fix the impossible.


----------



## 1965scooper (Oct 24, 2013)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Cleaning a Cleaner.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


LittleBlackDuck:

Once again,you've made my day. It's not often that Master Woodworker and Master Wordsmith come in the same package.


----------



## socrbent (Mar 9, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Cleaning a Cleaner.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


ditto to Scooper - thanks for sharing something I would likely never tell anyone


----------



## CFP (Apr 4, 2010)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Cleaning a Cleaner.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Brilliant!

I have plenty of useless tools sitting around the shop but am still waiting for a stroke of genius to hit them (I mean me) LOL


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Cleaning a Cleaner.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> ... I have plenty of useless tools sitting around the shop…
> - Steve


No tool is useles *Steve*... They're just idle lazy bastards lining up in the dole queue waiting for the economy to recover.
My sole defence is pointing out to SWMBO… she has 2 feet (number not length) why 10+ pairs of shoes?... seeing as she is too embarrassed to go out into public with me!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Cleaning a Cleaner.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Good job duckie, at least the compound wasn't getting flicked all over the workshop and was contained within the clear bin.

Good for the car headlights too !
Consider yourself lucky you don't live in Queensland

Anyone found illegally keeping rabbits can be issued with an on-the-spot fine of $2,200. The maximum penalty for keeping rabbits in Queensland is $44,000. Under current legislation imprisonment is not a penalty for keeping a pet rabbit in Queensland.Dec 16, 2014


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Cleaning a Cleaner.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> ... maximum penalty for keeping rabbits in Queensland is $44,000. Under current legislation imprisonment is not a penalty for keeping a pet rabbit…
> - robscastle


So do I read it correctly… you can't be imprisoned if you don't pay your $44,000 fine?

Is there a discount if the bunny has *myxo'*?


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

*Scrollsaw Ease for Arthritic Knuckles...*

*Boys* and *Girls*,

Another plagiarised idea expanded, though I cannot find the offering, I believe Steve Good had a hand in it somewhere.

I was sick and tired of having *arthur* gnaw at my knuckles every time I tried to swing my Excalibur (scroll saw) in a deftly duel with a lance (piece of wood).

I initially purchased a set of these round knobs for my Excalibur scroll saw,









to facilitate my grip, only to find them not that much better than the original ones for the final tightening of the knobs.

I resorted to my favourite sandbox and designed these knob fasteners in SketchUp and 3D printed them,









They proved to be an improvement, but I kept popping blades so I can only assume my pansy grip was not manly enough to wield the mighty Excalibur.

Back to the drawing board, I finalised on this design to accommodate the round knobs,









and when the scrolling task was done, I had to reach for the tool and some spinach to undo my previous over exuberance of the twists.

Never prepared to let moss grow under my shoes (only fungus between the toes), I thought that if this gizmo worked so well with my round knobs, they should work equally well with the original…
DOH! What a moron, the round knob tool did not fit the elongated original one so I had to redesign it to fit,


















voila… worked like a charm… and just to prove I'm ambidextrous (well at least two handed) I put each of the fasteners at opposite ends of the tool









so I would now have to decide which end to use… life was not meant to be easy.

The following is a link to the scaled PDF for the Excalibur that can be printed and scrolled (or band sawed followed by heaps of sanding… you choose) for the fasteners.

The holes in the fastener parts are for dowel alignment to prevent slippage during glue up as I laser cut mine (x2) from 6mm MDF and laminate. Carry the dowels into the ends of the grip for strength.

The grip can be either a large dowel or a lathe reject-spindle. A few (actually more than a few) longitudinal bandsaw marks will ensure a herculean grip while tightening… and hope for a repeat feat of strength when loosening.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Scrollsaw Ease for Arthritic Knuckles...*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


I know its always 5 O'Clock somewhere and it looks like new blade time as well

the mighty Excalibur yet another great tool brand sadly bitten the dust


----------



## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Scrollsaw Ease for Arthritic Knuckles...*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


You have to be careful as you can damage blade clamps by over tightening. Large handles make it easy to over tighten.


----------



## tyvekboy (Feb 24, 2010)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Scrollsaw Ease for Arthritic Knuckles...*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


I do agree that a large handle like the one youʻve made can put excessive torque on the blade clamp. Even with the small one that Iʻve made I have to be careful to not over torque the blade clamp.




























You could make a small 2-sided one like this one with the 2 shapes on either side. Itʻs the extended wings on the tool that helps with getting a grip and tightening the blade clamp.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Scrollsaw Ease for Arthritic Knuckles...*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> You have to be careful as you can damage blade clamps by over tightening.
> - Redoak49
> 
> I do agree that a large handle like the one youʻve made can put excessive torque on the blade clamp.
> - tyvekboy


 Gent, two statements I can't dispute… well I can, but then one of us 3 would be lying…

I have found that my "little" gismo, is always on hand (at the JS) and a tad easier to control than the pliers I used to use. With the circular resign, it's easy to snug up and then do a few ° turn… with trial and error (until you stop popping blades…ensure you pull up prior to the 359° rotation mark…) take a mental note of the +° turn and use that as the benchmark…


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Scrollsaw Ease for Arthritic Knuckles...*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Thats a really fine idea.
My fingers are slowly going in that direction, it runs in the family.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Scrollsaw Ease for Arthritic Knuckles...*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> Thats a really fine idea…..
> - mafe


Thanks *mafe*... but please take heed of others' advice above in not overdoing the tightening… I probably should have mentioned it as you can get incredible pressure with the gizmo.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

*In a Tight Scrape.*

*Boys* and *Girls*,

Just in case you find yourself in a tight spot, this little gizmo may get you out in a scrape.

I needed a scraper small enough to scrape the inside of the windows of one of my model toys a while back, after finding that sandpaper was altering the general shape too much.

I used the "normal" card scraper sharpening technique to prepare one of my paint scrapers.
In operation on *pine*,









*walnut*,









*hard maple*,








(actually that was a lie as I went and bought a new one to convert…)

I wanted to use my old favourite (bottom one), 








however, it has been with me for over 50 years and it's being held in trust for a boxed display…

Just a couple of hints, aimed at the uninitiated, for scraper sharpening.
Nylon blocks with rare earths make a good vertical holder,

















... for the more frugal… just a wooden block will suffice.

For those of delicate hand, a fly-wire screen spline split down the length can protect your baby soft palms,









A split block (bandsaw kerf) with "hold in place wings" is a good addition to hold a scraper for edge rolling,

















The "wings hold it in place while the scraper is positioned and the vice tightened.







(cheap Chines…) 
and it doesn't object to interracial vices, ...(expensive Australian)









*PS.* Don't try this on plastic scrapers… after about 5 attempts, I reaslised it doesn't work!... They just don't hold an edge.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *In a Tight Scrape.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


nice tutorial ducks i wish i actually used the scrapers i have but just dont care for them much myself.nowhere to plug em in-lol.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *In a Tight Scrape.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> ... nowhere to plug em in-lol.
> - pottz


That's why I'm going cordless *pottzy*.

I believe manual labour was abandoned after the completion of the last pyramid in Egypt… Since then the elecronic tools have ruled, however, occasionally even this electron enthusiast reaches for a scraper… I have about 10 so I always have a sharp one. Then I discovered they eventually had to be sharpened and I had a ********************load to do… hence my cordless phobia…


----------



## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *In a Tight Scrape.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


I'm shocked! I believed you to be a firm disciple of the over-priced red tool :-/ You needed a small scraper and it wasn't this one?


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *In a Tight Scrape.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> I m shocked! I believed you to be a firm disciple of the over-priced red tool :-/ You needed a small scraper and it wasn t this one?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


your right kenny im shocked,the duck making a home made tool when a highly overpriced one is available!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *In a Tight Scrape.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


I got two of those… One for each hand…


> I m shocked! I believed you to be a firm disciple of the over-priced red tool :-/ You needed a small scraper and it wasn t this one?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


*pottzy*, *pottzy*, *pottzy*... *hokie*, *hokie*, *hokie*... Two grown men of *little faith*... You blaspheme against the duck… 









This duck needs two *'peckers*... one for each hand!


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *In a Tight Scrape.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


i knew it kenny,never underestimate the duck.


----------



## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *In a Tight Scrape.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Yeah, we shoulda known better pottz. He even dipped the tip of his new one in red paint so it would match his 2 peckers!


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *In a Tight Scrape.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


it's all about presentation kenny,the duck is a showman at the highest level. no one has a bigger pecker than duckie :-/


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

*Having trouble drumming up tension?*

*Boys* and *Girls*,

A lot of people seem to have trouble getting the roll of sandpaper holding on their drumsander and start contemplating turning to the dark side of hook and loop conversion.

Before you bite the bullet, try the following first. Ensure the paper is wrapped tightly on the drum. The paper doesn't have to abut between turns/wraps.

To stop the end from slipping out, bend it over itself before you manouver it into the tensioning clip. 









The sandpaper face on both sides inhibits slip









Seat it fully down the tension clip.


----------



## oldrivers (Feb 10, 2014)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Having trouble drumming up tension?*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


I don't have problems getting new paper keeping it on without ripping off after a few minuets run time is different story.


----------



## Dutchy (Jun 18, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Having trouble drumming up tension?*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Thanks for the TIP.


----------



## 1Woody (Mar 20, 2013)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Having trouble drumming up tension?*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


The clamp on the side by the motor is always tough to get in and clamped. A few cuss words every time not the easiest clamping mechanism they could have come up with.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Having trouble drumming up tension?*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> ... A *few cuss words* every time not the easiest clamping mechanism they could have come up with.
> - Al Breit


Just a few *AB*? I'm glad to be an ex Hungarian… I believe we have one of the better range of cuss words in the world… I've exhausted the list many times.
My Jet has a gizmo that's supposed to make maneuvering of the latch/clip easier… bull********************… however, I haven't had any issues since adopting this turnover trick… at least nowhere as many!

Why don't they Just "mirror" the mechanism right to left. Any manufacturer working on that concept could make a killing…

Hint, hint for any budding inventors out there.


----------



## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Having trouble drumming up tension?*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Thanks for the hint! Now-- how do I remember to do this months from now…


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Having trouble drumming up tension?*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> Thanks for the hint! Now-- how do I remember to do this months from now…
> - sras


Stick some sandpaper in your jocks and leave it there… you won't forget… guaranteed.

Seriously, your best friend is a texta (sharpie)... don't write on your forehead (unless you can read backwards) as it will eventually wash off… write it on the end of the drum, the right (literally) end and not on the roll.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

*Refresh the memory and Graffiti your tools.*

*Boys* and *Girls*,

If you suffer a case of forgetfulness and remember how to read, continue, otherwise… hmmm… I forget… come back later… things might have changed.

I am getting old quicker than birthdays seem to come around. While Uncle Alzhi hasn't caught up to me (yet), I'm a guilty advocate of,

Hate to *RTFM*. 
Loathe to play *what-ifs* with a chain of allen keys or wrenches/sockets. 
Continually skin knuckles or strip threads in trying to twist things the wrong way. 
Cause ill-rest in the household with the proliferation of prolonged, profound profanities.
… and many more shortcomings that I care not to remember.

If you can relate to any of the above symptoms, salvation is at hand… with the dexterous use of a *texta (sharpie in Yankee speak)*… 
There are far too many things to concern oneself in the workshop than trying to remember/recall that fine print in the bloody manual that no one ever needs or bothers to read, until the book can't be found and you have all 3 hands full of activity needing immediate attention.

Now this revelation is not in writing instructions on the back of your hand or on the forehead (even if you can read backwards), but to use a *texta* to deface your tools in an endeavor to refresh your memory.

I have gone around and written handy tips onto my tools with a *texta* and refresh it whenever it starts to fade/wear. These tips can be in the format of a number, a word, a full paragraph or even a song.

Some may think I have to be a scatter brain or mentally challenged to have to write these "instruction", that I may be, however, all I will own up to is that with all the different machines in my workshop, it's another variable I don't have to fret over… my tools, my shop, my rules and my lack of memory…

Here is a collection of my *cheat sheets* to give some ideas to get you started…

Reminder to lower the table to a specific height for function change on my jointer/thicknesser combo,








and an around about way, to pull the plug to flip the lid,








raised table compensation for the thin stock sled (actually you need to subtract and not add… but, I already know that),








and indicate the lock position for feeder,









Even brand new tools get a tag for open/close direction of collete,









Allen key size for bandsaw bearing adjustment,








and the bandsaw's fence adjuster rotation direction for the *away* direction,









Drum sander Up/Down rotation direction,








Spanner size for drum sander bolt head,









Spindle sander release direction. Diagram indicated the rotation of the attachment not to be confused with the spindle… remember it's a left hand thread,









I have 3 buffs for my 2 wheel slow speed grinder so each buff could finish up on either wheel depending on order of change. As the left hand spindle has a left hand thread, marking the side the buff is oriented makes undoing the nut a 1st. up operation. 








The markings refer to the outside facing of the buff… RHS mount,








LHS mount,









Direction of the adjustment wheel for my router table's Incra LS positioner… bit *away* from fence,








the other way, *closer* to fence









Latche chuck open/close rotation,








Locking nut size for my lathe extension mount,









While the allen key size was written on my disc sander, this magnet mount save me a walk to the key rack,









Even the Fe*$*tool gets two tags (even though the spindle lock has directional arrows),


















Ryoni trimmer gets the hinge side marked for base mounting. Hinge on wrong side interferes with thumb placement during operation,









The shop vac is in auto mode 99% of the time, however, the markings are on the front hidden from obvious view,









I have replaced the locking bolt on my drill press raiser handle by a ratchet spanner. Directions takes the conjecture out of operation,









My Bessey gear clamps can be confusing depending on orientation, no need for a 50-50 chance of correct direction regardless of orientation.









I have two mitre saws feeding the one shop vac,


























swap this laser cut/printed sign to identify saw the vac is NOT attached to,









Even the laser gets a prompt for replacement after the lens is removed and cleaned,








and a prompt for software table height settings for 3mm and 6mm MDFs respectively,









There are more but I'm sick of typing and running out of sharpies.

Become an *Ektoe* and start tagging.

*PS.* Once you start tagging your tools, somehow you tend to remember without the prompt.


----------



## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Refresh the memory and Graffiti your tools.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


are they DYMO lables on the clamps ? :<)))










i find these to be very confusing :<((((((((


----------



## tyvekboy (Feb 24, 2010)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Refresh the memory and Graffiti your tools.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Great ideas for us OLD guys.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Refresh the memory and Graffiti your tools.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> are they DYMO lables on the clamps ? :<)))
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yep DYMO… I didn't take too many of my dymo labels in the workshop as I don't consider them graffiti.

As for confusion with that switch… I fully agree… I can understand *O* for *O*n but what does *I* stand for? *I*nterrupt (execution) maybe?


> Great ideas for us OLD guys.
> - tyvekboy


*OLD* guy be buggered *tyk*... I started this regime about 12 years ago when a friends 19 year old son wanted some workshop experience, however, I do accredit him with giving me the motivation to tag. Never realised what a smart-arse I was back then.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Refresh the memory and Graffiti your tools.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


now i was gonna make fun of you but im at the same point in life.i like marking the size of nuts i always seem to try 3 or 4 wrenches before i get the right one.once again youve actually given me something worthwhile duckie.


----------



## Pjonesy (Feb 20, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Refresh the memory and Graffiti your tools.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Alex all you have to remember is righty tighty or lefty loosy for all common threads except when using Stanley wood planes which have left hand threads on the blade adjuster but right hand on the very early ones.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Refresh the memory and Graffiti your tools.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> .... lefty loosy for all *common* threads except when using Stanley wood planes which have left hand threads on the blade adjuster but right hand on the very early …


You calling me *common*, *Pj*?... I refuse to consider anything in my environment… *common*!

I have more left hand threads than glasses of vino since getting out of bed this morning, unless that was 5 minutes ago… and that's a helluva lot. I have been known to use manual allen keys occasionally and I hate to think, when I approach from under neath (while upright). Also unfortunately, *loosy-goosy* doesn't help in socket sizes…

Does your mantra hold for the swirl direction when pouring a glass of vino in NZ… does it differ from the North Island to the South?

Easier to use a *texta once* than try to *think twice*.

Don't worry, you'll reach my age one day… just earmark this post so you can re-read then and take action.

*PS.* Nevertheless, thanks for the tip *Pj*. I will tag all my tools with *righty tighty or lefty loosy_* as a reminder.


----------



## sansoo22 (May 7, 2019)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Refresh the memory and Graffiti your tools.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> Alex all you have to remember is righty tighty or lefty loosy for all common threads except when using Stanley wood planes which have left hand threads on the blade adjuster but right hand on the very early ones.
> 
> - Pjonesy


That depends on the age of the plane. I have a couple type 5s and 6s that are backwards…or normal…but backwards compared to newer Stanley's.



> now i was gonna make fun of you but im at the same point in life.i like marking the size of nuts i always seem to try 3 or 4 wrenches before i get the right one.once again youve actually given me something worthwhile duckie.
> 
> - pottz


At what age are you supposed to need labels on everything? I just turned 40 a few days ago and I'm finding more and more things I want labeled. Or for tools with allen keys or special wrenches the cheap HF magnet dishes stuck to them to keep track of those thing.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Refresh the memory and Graffiti your tools.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> At what age are you supposed to need labels on everything? I just turned 40 a few days ago …
> - sansoo22


******************** *sansoo*, at 40 you're an old fart now… as I mentioned to *tyvekboy*, it started with that 19 yo son of a friend.



> Alex all you have to remember is righty tighty or lefty loosy for all *common* threads except when using Stanley wood planes which have left hand threads on the blade adjuster but right hand on the very early ones.
> - Pjonesy
> That depends on the age of the plane. I have a couple type 5s and 6s that are *backwards*...or normal…but backwards compared to newer Stanley s.
> - sansoo22


Hell, *common* from *Pj* and *backward* from you and even *pottzy* wanted to make *fun off me*... I might as well shut up shop and learn to spell *RIP* and stop worrying about *C19*!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Refresh the memory and Graffiti your tools.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...












we all have our problems


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Refresh the memory and Graffiti your tools.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


hey Pottzy do you use a micrometer for measuring your nuts !!! tee hee


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Refresh the memory and Graffiti your tools.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Refresh the memory and Graffiti your tools.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


I wonder what other funnies I have missed while being away?


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Refresh the memory and Graffiti your tools.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Refresh the memory and Graffiti your tools.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> - robscastle


i use a pumped up fist-lol.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Refresh the memory and Graffiti your tools.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> I wonder what other funnies I have missed while being away?
> 
> - robscastle


snooze ya loose buddy,leave the circus for even a day and you miss all the sideshows,the freaks geeks and oddities of nature.ill leave what im saying up to your own imagination.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Refresh the memory and Graffiti your tools.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


hey not so nasty I am still trying to recover from the bush bash with sons, (only bashing was me) still hobbling about like a 70 yo spastic, tried to rake up leaves this morning even that hurt, ... and then don't start me on sneezing talk about yell and scream!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Refresh the memory and Graffiti your tools.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...




__
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Refresh the memory and Graffiti your tools.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> ...


their ya go just takes the right medication buddy.now take two of her and get a good nights sleep-;-)


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Refresh the memory and Graffiti your tools.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> i use a *pumped up fist*-lol.
> - pottz


I must be behind the times… I have a* blow up doll *in my wardrobe..


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Refresh the memory and Graffiti your tools.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> i use a *pumped up fist*-lol.
> - pottz
> 
> I must be behind the times… I have a* blow up doll *in my wardrobe..
> ...


i like it rough duckie.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Refresh the memory and Graffiti your tools.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


I am hoping the anamatronic ones come down in price!






They don't necessary need to be able to talk I might add


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Refresh the memory and Graffiti your tools.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> I am hoping the anamatronic ones come down in price!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


New meaning to *"Valley of the Dolls*"!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

*Threaded MDF (POC).*

*Boys* and *Girls*,

It's hard to imagine the blog I wrote about *RivNuts* was over 2 years ago. I was surprised by some of the comments saying they have been around for years, so I have to fess up that I didn't discover them.
Whether they be called *Rivnuts*, *Nutserts*, *pop-nuts* or even *beer nuts*, it's my blog so I'll refer to these,








as *Rivnuts*…. and as I remember my youth, they also come in rubbers,








which I'll refer to as *rubber inserts*, so we are all under the same blanket.

If you couldn't be bothered to read the above link, the *rivnuts* are inserted using this *setter*,








For all you *thrillseekers* (politically correct way of saying *skinflints*) that don't want to part with your shekels for a similar tool, you can always seat them using two spanners and a spare nut, or replace one of the spanners with a hex wrench… especially if the bolt has an allen head,

















sorry, you figure it out (as I *have* the tool)... though I compare this method to popping normal rivets, with a mouth devoid of dentures.

I'm far from an expert and still coming to grips with the setter and the *nuts*,









I make a lot of jigs and workshop enhancements, and can see some use/benefit of threads in MDF. 
As there hasn't been a proliferation of coverage for these here at LJ's, I thought I might get the ball rolling and share some of my findings to those that are unfamiliar with them. Any reciprocal education by seasoned users is/are eagerly welcome.

I haven't used it enough to do a thorough review, however, the notion of threads in MDF made me think of *rivnuts* to see what I can achieve with them.

I have used threads in solid wood and wouldn't go past *The Wood Whisperer's* taps… they have tolerances designed for wood and are better suited than metal taps… in my opinion worth the extra shekels. 









Unfortunately the nature of MDF precludes it from taking a thread and after buying a set of *Wood Whisperer's* taps I had heaps sitting idle… I found that the two inserts below just don't cut the mustard… or better worded, cut/ripped MDF,








The one on the left is the woodworkers common *threaded insert* that still requires a non friendly MDF thread, while the one on the right is the DIY hackers insert, which requires a hole and a hammer to drive it home… also not MDF friendly.

I believe that *rivnuts* are primarily designed for use for sheet or thin metal,








(up to 6mm… though some may work in thicker metal at higher bolt gauges). I wanted to extrapolate this concept to thinner sheets of MDF (like 3mm or 1/8"),


















To set up this *POC* (*P*roof *O*f *C*oncept), I designed a box using SketchUp as a "vehicle" to carry the *rivnuts* in MDF and see if it was viable.
Initially I was restricting my *rivnut "popping"* into 3mm MDF (more on this later), so I used my *laser cut, dowel aligned, MDF lamination technique* to build up a layer of 12mm thick MDF,

















and laser friendly format,









Cut on the laser and then off to the workshop,








popped two *rivnuts* into the 3mm MDF








tested fit








and glued up with PVA using the dowels for alignment, 









Cleaned up using flush cut, chisel and sander,



































The four sides were then glued together using CA,








with the aid of the "tenon" cut layer of each laminated side,









I had no reservations on bolting something firmly flush against the "box",








however, I did have concerns about pulling force on the *rivnuts*. While this is no great scientific experiment, I rigged this setup and managed to break the 6mm MDF I used when I continued to spread the clamps,








Still the same "scientist" operating the hardware, I rigged this larger piece of 6mm MDF to demonstrate forces in action by the bend in the 6mm MDF,








naturally unmeasured, however, I would be happy to trust it with lighter weights and forces.

I also toyed with the rubber inserts,








I made a video of this "box" and tried some basic tests and made a total arse of myself, wasting good footage in bastardising the use of these rubber inserts. I'm sure many illegitimates will attest to failing rubbers. I abandoned the concept, however, eventually came back and made a confessional video when I found the error of my ways.

What I found was that you do not pre-pop the rubber insert. Just drill the hole,









shove it in,









and then just bolt it in,


























I found that it worked equally well in solid timber… drill the hole,








slip in the rubber,








and screwed it,








though still with the absence of scientific stress tests.

After some comments made to the video, I promoted the 6mm *rivnuts* from 3mm MDF to 6mm with success,








Thanks *rc*…

Just to prove I don't always talk ********************… here's a jig I was forced to make out of timber,








as it blew out when I needed "threads" in MDF,









Please don't rush out and buy yourself a set of *Rivnuts* and setters… Not until I buy a few shares in the company.


----------



## stripit (Oct 21, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Threaded MDF (POC).*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Great presention, as always. I enjoy your posts, they make me LOL in the morning. Keep it up.


----------



## Dutchy (Jun 18, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Threaded MDF (POC).*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Thanks for sharing. Would it work with solid wood?


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Threaded MDF (POC).*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> Thanks for sharing. Would it work with solid wood?
> 
> - Dutchy












Haven't tried too many experiments as I would normall use my *Wood Whisperer* taps in solids.

The rubber inserts will work, however, I wouldn't depend on too much pull strength… To hang something vertically would be my limit as long as there not too much twisting forward and down force.

Primarily I use it in thin metal… the MDF was an after thought when I couldn't tap it (or use thread insert it with satisfactort results).


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Threaded MDF (POC).*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


I gave up looking for your Up market Lazy Susan or whatever *splintergroup* was gobbing off about.

Thanks for your input too really appreciate fooling about all day on wild goose/duck chases.
Anyway enough of the bellyaching.

I have decide to focus more on your nuts.

I am not sure if I told you about putting nutserts into 3rd hands to get rid of all the excessive bits involved with their adjustment.

Let me know if I didn't and I might go look for them to show you.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Threaded MDF (POC).*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


You didn't… or you can't remember that I can't remember… or I can't remember what I forgot.

As for my nuts… I'm quite happy to focus on them.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Threaded MDF (POC).*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


OMG well anyway some Good Hand clamps ( not 3rd hand incorrectly reported earlier) are able to be modified so all the additional washers nuts and other annoying bit can be removed on some (depending on their design) and a suitable size nutsert fitted in their place.

Its only the very small ones that have a folded steel arm.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Threaded MDF (POC).*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


You will lose a small amount of lateral adjustment but nothing vibrates loose any more.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Threaded MDF (POC).*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Sorry *rc* but I'm now totally lost… must be all those slaps on the back of the head from SWMBO for daring to say that she is banned from LJs in *pottzy*'s *_corona crazy* threads…
I won't say it the vino as that's what I take to cure the slaps.

As for the,








I use the *Rockler*









less thinking required. Ya gotta 'member (Country party), I'm over 71.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Threaded MDF (POC).*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Yeah I need my beer here too.

I still like looking at your nuts though !










Trust you to have the upmarket varieties!

As for the pottzy's _corona crazy threads…
I agree.

Maybe he is trying to outdo Stumpies


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Threaded MDF (POC).*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> - robscastle


No idea why I hadn't responded b4… My box is not as extensive… but my desire to embrace new technology grows… I chagrin at my waste, however, I now live for convenience, not popular with my kids…

I just can't bring myself to use my obsolete stuff… unless I make a jig for someone I don't like… and then I have nightmares… appeased by vino!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

*CA-Finish "layers counter" for Pen turners.*

*Boys* and *Girls*,

If you've *never turned* a pen and I don't mean on a lazy susan,








or *never intend* to turn one, there's nothing here for you and recommend you *exit*.

If you do indulge in pens and *never used* or *intend to use* CA finish, pretend you *never intend* to turn one and *go to the previous sentence*.

If you hate reading as much as I do, *skip to the last two pictures*, though you may never know what this crap is all about.

For all you CA finishers… 








and I don't mean automobile without its *r*'s… how many times have you lost track of the number of layers you put on?

If you only lay down 1 or 2, which is bugger all, pretend you *don't use* CA finish and *go to sentence 2 above*.

For those thrilseekers that wish to continue, don't forget you can always end your *sentence* on the current line and *simply exit*.

When finishing a pen blank,








I usually apply 20 layers of my CA and BLO concoction,








To 4 drops of CA on some paper toweling, I add 1 drop of BLO.
This I apply to the blank (initially sanded to 400 grit) with the lathe running at around 1,800rpm… and tear the "infected tip" off the strip of toweling after application. I usually apply 5 layers and then go for a vino break to give the CA time to cure… Not for too long, but enough to lose count… especially after a few breaks and vinos.

Now for a history lessons… I used to depend on finger counting when I started pen turning and only applied around 5 layers, but as I got more adventurous I upped my layers quota and quickly ran out of fingers.
Initially I used a "blackboard" and chalk to keep trace,








Then I graduated to a "whiteboard" and chalk. I found I couldn't read the white chalk so I replaced it with a green whiteboard marker,








but that was a long walk in the workshop for each layer (purple dotted)








so I graduated to a small "whiteboard" at the lathe,








The problem I had was that I was always picking the marker off the floor,








I then progressed to these counters that I purchased from Bunnings… 

















I initially thought of buying 20 of them and moving each one to a new pile as a progress marker, until I realised it had a lever and pressing that lever I could record the new layer by incrementing the counter. When the display reached *0020*, 








I reached my target and was finished… just don't forget to look at the counter regularly or that 20 may have inflated.
One of the beauties of this counter was that you could keep an accurate count even in the dark, as long as you could find the lever and don't accidentally push it when searching for it… accidentally recording a "missing" layer.
One thing I also found was that if you missed your mark and laid down 21 (or 22), you didn't have to press it 9997 (or 9998) times to get to my accurate destination of *0020*, but just clear it and cheat by only quickly pressing it 20 times (sshhh!).

Unfortunately, I often forgot to press the lever with each layer, so by the time I was finished (gut feeling and CA shortage), the counter only registered 3 or 4 layers. I needed a better counting method!

Consequently, to solve my math's issue, I now simply drop the torn off piece of applicator into a receptacle/tray… *this is where you impatient buggers should have skipped to (last 2 pictures)…* 


















and when I have a pile of 20 I'm done… just ensure you use the same basket all the time and you don't get a flash of *cleansies* and empty it out before you finish applying all the CA layers.

For all you readers that skipped as suggested, you should be glad, but you won't know why… And for all the others that didn't, don't you wish you did?

Keep safe.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *CA-Finish "layers counter" for Pen turners.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


20 layers ducks,so you start with a slim line and end up with a cigar pen ? i always love the journey's you take us on from the start to the finish,always a wild ride.so when this began i though you were gonna give us a tutorial on ca pen finishing,but no, merely a long tale of how to count layers.i should have listened and skipped to the end as recommended-lol.


----------



## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *CA-Finish "layers counter" for Pen turners.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


I don't make pens, probably won't. I also don't follow directions so I read the whole thing. Actually it's a pretty good idea - I hope I can find a reason to use it!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *CA-Finish "layers counter" for Pen turners.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


OMG that looks like a fountain pen! .......where is my slide rule!

Its a clash of technology fountain pens and CA glue

1.The Romanian inventor Petrache Poenaru received a French patent on May 25, 1827, for the invention of a fountain pen with a barrel made from a large swan quill.
Lucky Ducks dont have such big feathers eh!

2. Super Glue, also known as cyanoacrylate, was originally discovered in 1942 by Dr. Harry Coover.
Coover was attempting to make clear plastic gun sights to be put on guns used by Allied soldiers in WWII.

3. In 1958, super glue entered the market and was initially called "Eastman 910" before coining the name "super glue" shortly after, the product was licensed to Loctite who renamed it to "Loctite Quick set 404" followed by a slightly altered version they branded as "super bonder".

Want a special RC tip? sneak into the wife's pantry, (that's pantry BTW) and get some Baking Soda it is a strengther and filler for CA glue.

wait there is more:- ....... you might need to cut back on the Purple Haze a little bit, your leaving trails all over the w/s floor


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *CA-Finish "layers counter" for Pen turners.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


I still have to use my calculator *pottzy*... to count the discards.

Start making pens *sras* and you won't need an excuse.


> OMG that looks like a fountain pen! .......where is my slide rule!
> - robscastle


Yep… both in low demand nowadays,


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *CA-Finish "layers counter" for Pen turners.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


id still like that tutorial on ca pen finishing though,id like to see your technique,mine is good sometimes and not so good others ! im surprised at the 20 coats,ive only done 5 or 6 usually.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *CA-Finish "layers counter" for Pen turners.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> id still like that tutorial on ca pen finishing though,id like to see your technique,mine is good sometimes and not so good others ! im surprised at the 20 coats,ive only done 5 or 6 usually.
> 
> - pottz


I only do 20+ coats on *Slimlines*... Wouldn't waste my time on my 22carat gold *Emperor* fountains.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *CA-Finish "layers counter" for Pen turners.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


*pottzy*, the 20 coats really depends on the quality of the pen and the type of blank used. ALso the intended use by known recipients may add a layer or two for that added durability…

I have been known to lay as low as 19 layers… depends on the blank

Personally 5 or 6 could be a tad "wasted"... If you lay it on thick, it's hard to keep smooth and if you lay it on thin you could sand through with the finishing sanding run… I also like those added layers as I use those acrylic foam pads up through the grades before the final car cutting/polishing compound "layer"... I've found that with that technique there is less chance of a blowout, even after a few glasses of vino…



> OMG that looks like a *fountain pen*!
> - robscastle


Just wait for my next *project* post.

*PS.* Can't cut back on the purple haze… it is painted on the shop floor so I know the path to my big whiteboard.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *CA-Finish "layers counter" for Pen turners.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


yeah thats one problem ive had was the finish got too rough and then id sand through trying to fix it.gotta go for more coats i guess.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *CA-Finish "layers counter" for Pen turners.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> yeah thats one problem ive had was the finish got too rough and then id sand through trying to fix it.gotta go for more coats i guess.
> 
> - pottz


Ditto with me… I learnt the hard way… also if you don't already, use thin… dries quicker and doesn't build up as much… hence so many layers… but I still take a few minutes break between each set of 5's… just long enough for a pitstop to the dunny and the cask… but you yanks don't have dunnies (you have *la-de-da bathrooms*) so you'll have to double up on the vino visits.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *CA-Finish "layers counter" for Pen turners.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


yeah from most tutorials ive seen they always recommended thick for the first coat then thin.i think your way is better.wait,what,what did i say that,i meant…......retract, retract…...damn!!!!!


----------



## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *CA-Finish "layers counter" for Pen turners.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Or….you can switch to GluBoost and just do 2-3 coats each of the blue and orange and be done without fear of it boiling or developing white spots. You can skip all of the Micromesh and just use EEE and plastic polish once you develop your technique. Easy peasy!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *CA-Finish "layers counter" for Pen turners.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


You can get CA as a gel too you know, don't be confusing it with Vasso though!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *CA-Finish "layers counter" for Pen turners.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> Or….you can switch to GluBoost and just do 2-3 coats ...
> - Andybb


Thanks for the heads up *A'bb*...


> ... a tutorial on ca pen finishing,but no, ...
> - pottz


As *pottzy* alluded to, I had no intention to advocate any particular way of finishing pens… It was solely aimed at other scatter brains like me that put on heaps of CA layers and have issues keeping track of how many.
The last step is my latest way… and only works if you use tear of paper towel… would be a bugger if I re-used a large rag… who knows what I do tomorrow (in reference to below statement).

I have never heard of *GluBoost* (or seen here in Australia). Have taken you recommendation on board and ordered a tube of each and the accelerator… I'm a sucker for trying new things.

I think you've just dobbed yourself into a write up about it here for other *ignoramuses* like me here at LJ.


----------



## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *CA-Finish "layers counter" for Pen turners.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> I think you ve just dobbed yourself into a write up about it here for other *ignoramuses* like me here at LJ.
> 
> - LittleBlackDuck


No need. A few of mine and a lot of other Glu-Boost topics here at IAP. It was originally used by luthiers for repair and assembly of stringed instruments so it's actually a better finishing product than regular CA. I like it because I can go from tubed blank to finished pen in 30-45 mins. If you make pens and don't already know about IAP you should join. It's the lumberjocks of pen turning.

PM me when you get the Glu-Boost and I'll do a quick video of what I do. Pens are fun cuz I doubt that any 2 people use CA the exact same way and everybody gets great results with what works for them.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *CA-Finish "layers counter" for Pen turners.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> ...
> No need. A few of mine and a lot of other Glu-Boost topics here at IAP....
> - Andybb


Unfortunately, you're not getting off that easy…


Looks like people need a logon to enter the site… which would limit visitors.
Lot of LJ members would not go visiting that site.

I'm against just "pointers" to another site/blog… however, a few paragraphs suck them in and redirect members from here to get educated elsewhere justifies an post. You can lead a horse to water, but first you have to put a ring in his nose.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *CA-Finish "layers counter" for Pen turners.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


never heard of glu-boost either,gotta look into that more.i used to be on IAP several years or more ago but the arguing and fighting got so bad i couldn't deal with it.makes the stuff that goes on here very mild.at that time some of the old time members also left.but a great place to learn all there is to know about pen making.


----------



## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *CA-Finish "layers counter" for Pen turners.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> Looks like people need a logon to enter the site… which would limit visitors.
> Lot of LJ members would not go visiting that site.
> 
> - LittleBlackDuck


You shouldn't need a logon if you go to this link.



> never heard of glu-boost either,gotta look into that more.i used to be on IAP several years or more ago but the arguing and fighting got so bad i couldn t deal with it.makes the stuff that goes on here very mild.at that time some of the old time members also left.but a great place to learn all there is to know about pen making.
> 
> - pottz


I've only been a member for a couple of years but haven't noticed any more in-fighting there than here. "There's always a few in every crowd." I've learned as much from there as I have from here. It is the go-to site for everything pen turning.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *CA-Finish "layers counter" for Pen turners.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> Looks like people need a logon to enter the site… which would limit visitors.
> Lot of LJ members would not go visiting that site.
> 
> - LittleBlackDuck
> ...


yeah no log on needed to just look,same as here.maybe it's better now,i was on there about 10 years ago i guess and it would get real nasty,then a bunch of the regulars left for anther forum.i havn't gone back in quite awhile.for pen making it's a great forum.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *CA-Finish "layers counter" for Pen turners.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> ... I ve learned as much from there as I have from here. It is the go-to site for everything pen turning.
> 
> - Andybb
> 
> ...


I had a look at my bookmarks and I had it *"Favourited"*, so I'm guessing I visited it a while back…

I can appreciate it may be the *incychlopide of pen turning*, but I don't think they'd let me get away with my crappy articles like poor LJ's seem to. Maybe woodies have more sympathy for the insane than pen turners… without my bull********************, my pens would only be just *ink in a stick*...


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *CA-Finish "layers counter" for Pen turners.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> PM me when you get the Glu-Boost and I ll do a quick video of what I do. Pens are fun cuz I doubt that any 2 people use CA the exact same way and everybody gets great results with what works for them.
> 
> - Andybb


Yo *Andybb*, just got my shipment…









Beiing *multi-polar* (actually Hungarian) no two pens havel ever been CA'd by any two of my egos.

Sorry, but didn't PM as I'm sure there are others that can learn from this experience… ya gotcha ears on *pottzy*?... There is probaly a bucketload of instructional videos out there, however, 90% are spruikers, 90% are BS shovellers, 90% are vendors and the remaining -90% might know what they're talking about… Any in your face, this is the definitive, *Boost how-to-do* video/instructions would save me some trial and error viewing and not get dragged off to nefarious XXX sites… sorry man, you started this… Looking forward to a quick video… let's up it and ask for a long, in depth production… hell, if you've seen any of mine… it's gotta be better!


----------



## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *CA-Finish "layers counter" for Pen turners.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Oh darn! Me and my big mouth. Guess I have to do it. Probably take me a week to get it done. Stand by.

I see you bought the full line of GB. Never saw those extender tips. Gotta get me some. I only use the blue and orange. Start with 2-3 coats of blue then use 2-3 orange and follow Mark Dwyers video. I use a really sharp skew chisel (per Tim at WoodnWhimsies technique) which gives me a 400-600 grit finish before any sanding. I also follow his "get on and get off" technique for applying the CA.

In a nutshell, my technique is to get a really smooth CA finish with .0000 wool that doesn't need micro-meshing so I can skip that and go right to EEE abrasive paste and finish with plastic polish.


----------



## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *CA-Finish "layers counter" for Pen turners.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> Oh darn! Me and my big mouth. Guess I have to do it. Probably take me a week to get it done. Stand by.
> 
> I see you bought the full line of GB. Never saw those extender tips. Gotta get me some. I only use the blue and orange. Start with 2-3 coats of blue then use 2-3 orange and follow Mark Dwyers video. I use a really sharp skew chisel (per Tim at WoodnWhimsies technique) which gives me a 400-600 grit finish before any sanding. I also follow his "get on and get off" technique for applying the CA.
> 
> ...


Also, if your final layer of GB isn't silky smooth you can always use that *SHARP* skew to smooth it or even remove a layer or two.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *CA-Finish "layers counter" for Pen turners.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> Oh darn! Me and my big mouth. Guess I have to do it. Probably take me a week to get it done. Stand by.
> 
> I see you bought the full line of GB. Never saw those extender tips. Gotta get me some. I only use the blue and orange. Start with 2-3 coats of blue then use 2-3 orange and follow Mark Dwyers video. I use a really sharp skew chisel (per Tim at WoodnWhimsies technique) which gives me a 400-600 grit finish before any sanding. I also follow his "get on and get off" technique for applying the CA.
> 
> ...


I blame my big mouth on vino… doesn't convince others, but I feel complacent…

Not knowing anything about *Boost*, I thought I might as well get the full range… I perefer to have and not use than need and not have… I've always been prepared to waste/spend a few extra shekels if it's not going to unduly affect my "quality" of life (draw the line at cheap vino, guzzling good is a sheer waste)... I've worked bloody hard for 50 years and on retirement am willing to reap a few extravagances… 
Hate to buy something and then months later chase around for a "necessary" accessory that is nowhere to be found. My unused bin would probably be worth a small fortune.
Will take me some time to get around to try it out as I'm no longer willing to make a pen (or related) without a need… I have far too many in cases with the ink slowly imitating wine… evaporating… and I can't guzzle ink.

Looks like I need to buy some .0000… you're costing me a fortune. Lucky I have EEE (I scream like a girl)...


----------



## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *CA-Finish "layers counter" for Pen turners.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> I perefer to have and not use than need and not have… I ve always been prepared to waste/spend a few extra shekels if it s not going to unduly affect my "quality" of life (draw the line at cheap vino, guzzling good is a sheer waste)... I ve worked bloody hard for 50 years and on retirement am willing to reap a few extravagances…
> Hate to buy something and then months later chase around for a "necessary" accessory that is nowhere to be found. My unused bin would probably be worth a small fortune.
> - LittleBlackDuck


+1 No joke and I'm not even retired, just spending my kid's inheritance. I know they're gonna see my stuff when I'm dead and say, "WTF is this?!?"


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *CA-Finish "layers counter" for Pen turners.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> I perefer to have and not use than need and not have… I ve always been prepared to waste/spend a few extra shekels if it s not going to unduly affect my "quality" of life (draw the line at cheap vino, guzzling good is a sheer waste)... I ve worked bloody hard for 50 years and on retirement am willing to reap a few extravagances…
> Hate to buy something and then months later chase around for a "necessary" accessory that is nowhere to be found. My unused bin would probably be worth a small fortune.
> - LittleBlackDuck
> 
> ...


ha ha me too the jokes on them,dads goin out broke,get a job kids,and it better be a good one!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *CA-Finish "layers counter" for Pen turners.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> +1 No joke and I m not even retired, just *s*pending my *k*id s *i*nheritance. I know they re gonna see my stuff when I m dead and say, "WTF is this?!?"
> - Andybb


Let's just hope you get a chance to (retire)...
I'm a *SKI*er too… I'm not rich, just comfortable… and if noting crazy bites me on my rrs, that cost mega shekels per pill, my kids inherit my tools and maybe retire for life, they also belong to the *WTF is this* generation… all the rest (house, ride on mower {love it… has a vino cask receptacle}) is bonus to them… must not sublimate their influential minds…


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *CA-Finish "layers counter" for Pen turners.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


retire, when you said that i had to google and find out what you meant.sounds great but im only worth a couple mil,ill have to share the beagles food….....i already feel hungry,and what about the vino allocations….yikes.i guess ill just work till i die….......................!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

*Does your chalk get "Un-Plastered"?*

*Boys* and *Girls*,

Do you have a collection similar to this,








scattered about the workshop that can never be found when needed?

And if you happen to find it next to you,








already interacting with your project… DOH!...
or worse still, it gets under foot,









If you answer *No*, then goodbye… otherwise, fret no more… salvation is at hand…



  






*just click on the picture above.*

At least if you step on it, you'll know it…

Keep safe.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Does your chalk get "Un-Plastered"?*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


duckie c'mon chalk is for kids to draw on sidewalks,were woodworkers,why do i need chalk,sell me!!!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Does your chalk get "Un-Plastered"?*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> duckie c mon chalk is for kids to draw on sidewalks,were woodworkers,why do i need chalk,sell me!!!
> 
> - pottz


Sound like you are familiar with *hopscotch* which requires *chalk*,









Well next to vino, I like to *hop* into my Fe*$*tool grade *Bowmore 25 Year-Old Single Malt Scotch*... BUt then again, you'd probably prefer Bos*¢*h grade moonshine.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Does your chalk get "Un-Plastered"?*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> duckie c mon chalk is for kids to draw on sidewalks,were woodworkers,why do i need chalk,sell me!!!
> 
> - pottz
> 
> ...


duckie that is one thing were the festool hootch thats precedence buddy…..cheers.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Does your chalk get "Un-Plastered"?*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Oh well chalk that up to experience!

Just wait until I get back home I also use chalk hence the 850 mm or thereabouts is chalk all the way!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

*Bessey KRE-VO... Completed upgrade.*

*Boys* and *Girls*,

If you are an egg connoisseur, you've just landed a double-yolker… you get a tip and a review completion in one.

Having just completed my review of the *Bessey Vario Revo Clamp Jaw* (and follow the bouncing ball for the *real thing*), where I addressed modification but not this full customisation.
Not happy with loose ends, I thought I'd go full hog and remove the original fixed jaw.

Closer inspection revealed the jaws were held in place by some sort of solid rivets,








... more on this later.

My first line of attack was to grind the heads of the rivets off… the plastic covering proved a bit resistant so I thought that a hacksaw was a better weapon,








Hmm, maybe for the optimists, but for me it was bloody hard work. Fired up the compressor and loaded with a thin cutting blade and subsequently launched a frontal attack on the jaw with bravado,








the mongrel fought back and refused to concede and while I managed to remove the jaw, the rivets refused to budge… I whacked it with a sledge but feared spreading the end making removal impossible so it was off to the drill press to drill it out. While I complained profusely… I should have kept my cool, held back on the cussing and admired the rugged Bessey construction.

Suddenly I discovered a new use for these new adjustable jaws….

















as an adjustable outfeed rest for the long clamp's bar… pretend you didn't read that as I'm going to use this as another workshop tip blog (shhh!).

It was quite a pathetic attempt, however, I eventually extricated the rivet and had a new *Vario* clamp,








the two jaws not colour co-ordinated, but they worked.
Hell that was hard work and prompted me to go to the trouble of taking my cordless bandsaw out of its cradle, and tackle the jaw on the next clamp,








Took less than 10 seconds to cut through both ends of the rivets, however, I still had to drill down the centre of the rivets to weaken it for easier extraction,









While the black jaws had an "observation" hole to guide cutting, the red were enclosed,








forcing me to cut blind,








and making another dogs breakfast. Nevertheless the redheads made an equally impressive colour co-ordinated *Vario* clamps,









Then I had a closer look… those bloody solid rivets weren't rivets but metal rods with domed ends,








all I had to do was, select an appropriate sized bold and simply hammer it out, leaving the second red jaw in pristine condition. 
Not that it mattered as they were still destined for the bin, however, if I discovered this with the first clamp, I would have saved a lot of stuffing around.

So for all you thrill-seekers choosing to upgrade, just pop the rods and enjoy the new *Vario* clamps.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bessey KRE-VO... Completed upgrade.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Where did you have these hidden or did they these come from out of the Ark
and thats no yoke!

https://www.lumberjocks.com/reviews/4037


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bessey KRE-VO... Completed upgrade.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> Where did you have these hidden or did they these come from out of the Ark
> and thats no yoke!
> 
> https://www.lumberjocks.com/reviews/4037
> ...


It's just a way for a yokel to turn *Noah* dredge into the *Titanic's* unsinkable mother.


----------



## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bessey KRE-VO... Completed upgrade.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Love to see these "deconstructions" of items. reminds me of my youth 8^)

Heck, now-a-days I'd just use the chop saw and whack off the last inch of the bar that holds the clamp head.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bessey KRE-VO... Completed upgrade.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> Love to see these "deconstructions" of items. reminds me of my youth 8^)
> 
> Heck, now-a-days I d just use the chop saw and whack off the last inch of the bar that holds the clamp head.
> 
> - splintergroup


That's what the rabbi said… just a little off the tip… won't matter… didn't care when I was young, but sure could use it now.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bessey KRE-VO... Completed upgrade.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


OMG you bragger,.....and I hope the rose bushes are thriving !!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bessey KRE-VO... Completed upgrade.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> ..and I hope the rose bushes are thriving !!
> - robscastle


They did,








but as I said, I was young then, and the ex was easily deceived.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

*Unconfuse the Leigh D4R configuration.*

*Boys* and *Girls*,

While following a totally unrelated *bouncing ball*…, a search of *"Leigh D4R"* revealed quite a few reviews, blogs and projects centered around the jig. This indicates to me that there may be a wider range of members that relish in the benefit of their outlaid expense… (it wasn't cheap).

If you hand cut your dovetails… bye.
If you use a PC dovetailer… or *not a D4R*... bye.

I'm not going to parrot past members contributions and *little miss echo* can go and have a sabbatical, however, if you are anything like me, the D4R is only brought out on special occasions like birthdays, bar mitzvahs, christenings, Ramadan, Christmas, goat sacrificial days and the occasional *C19* lockdowns… and the *specialised list* goes on.

Needless to say, most of us *D4R* users have not memorised the manual (albeit one of the better instructional publication), and we cock up our board orientation and find we have to re-cut and route 1 or two extra boards. How many times have you pulled out a drawer only to find that the front actually pulls out… separating from the drawer itself, due to incorrectly cutting the tails on the front piece.
On this project, the sides got the pins,








For a cabinet, it was no biggie, but for a drawer it would've been an *OOPSIE* no-no.

Forget *Mrs. Leigh's* henpeck of the *Mr.* with her inside and outside triangles… 








Orientation the "box" based on esthetics and mark the boards *S* for *s*ides and *F* for *f*ront (and back)…
Then remember the mantra,

*FOP when you SIT*…

*SIT* - *S*ide *I*nside *T*ail….
*FOP* - *F*ront *O*utside *P*in…


















Then when after you place the comb and mount the board, sing that mantra *FOP when you SIT*!!! And you won't screw up… as often!


----------



## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Unconfuse the Leigh D4R configuration.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


100% agree!

The manuals use of notation marks reminds me of the many crazy icon style signs that assault our eye

I still get hungry when I see this under the hand dryer in a restroom.


----------



## EarlS (Dec 21, 2011)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Unconfuse the Leigh D4R configuration.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


You forgot to mention that the D4 is beast. As with most beasts, you need to treat it with respect. Every time I use it, the the sacred user's manual is opened, recited, and all of the sage advice contained within the tome is put forth into use.

Somehow, I still wind up with one or two "original" pieces that wind up with the wrong side out or tails where there should be pins.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Unconfuse the Leigh D4R configuration.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> - splintergroup


I'll leave the aftermath of the bacon in the dunny…


> Somehow, I still wind up with *one* or *two* "original" *pieces* that wind up with the wrong side out or tails where there should be pins.
> - EarlS


Aha, BTDT… remember the mantra and you'll at least *halve* your odds… you'll only wind up with *½ *or *1* wrong *pie*...


----------



## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Unconfuse the Leigh D4R configuration.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


The Wood Whisperer pretty much torched Leigh's use of symbols in a video he did. He replaced the triangle and square symbols with an "I" and "O"

Get this, he proposed that the "I" stand for inside and the "O" stand for outside.

Yes it's a good manual but you actually have to read it nearly every time you use it.
Therefore I use my Akeda.

Sooooo…. Bye.


----------



## ocean (Feb 13, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Unconfuse the Leigh D4R configuration.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


I have to agree. With long times between using the jig, it is back to the manual each and every time. I will go through the book and add the I and O. That should keep me from #$

```
%&**#
```
^% it up again. I hope, but I know it will only be short time before I #$%^&*[email protected]%^ it up again.


----------



## EarlS (Dec 21, 2011)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Unconfuse the Leigh D4R configuration.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Pinto - you just gave away the secret code for the D4. I write "inside" and "outside" on every board, and also include "top" as well as "front", "back", "left side", and "right side". Basically, I write a novella when I use the D4 but it helps things come out like they should more times than not.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Unconfuse the Leigh D4R configuration.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


After watching the *spaghetti muncher* and also used the *I* and *O*, I still managed to bugger it up…

Now I now write *F* and *S* for the position of the board as after I've decided which is which… 
If I'm looking at a board marked *F* on one of it's sides, I know it's a *FOP* and ensure the chosen "outside face" is facing me and cut a *pin* or if the *D4R* is in the tail configuration, I work on the *S* boards…

Now, sing along with the duck…

*♫♪♫ 
FOP when you SIT… tra la, FOP when you SIT… tra le, FOP when you SIT… tra li… O-o-ooo! 
♫♪♫*

Download this, print it off, laminate it and glue it next to your *D4R*,


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

*Bessey Vario, picks me up*

*Boys* and *Girls*,

While converting my Bessey clamp to the new *Vario* capabilities, I blundered upon this novel use of them.

The clamps can be used as a variable height adjuster for outfeed support (or other type of variable quick adjustable supports),


























This is just a demo as it wouldn't be practical to use on this circle cutter that has to be moved across the bandsaw tabletop.

Nevertheless it demonstrates how the moving top jaw can be positioned at any height with the push of a button. While clamps can be used in a spreading action, they need resistance to be able to be locked… this configuration doesn't.

Hey, even I wouldn't go out of my way to buy these clamps just for this purpose, however, if you have some, this is another use for it.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bessey Vario, picks me up*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Hey whats this more exciting clamping info…wow

Maybe you had better read this for some clamp therapy

http://www.dawntools.com.au/pdf/Dawn_Catalogue_2017.pdf

Maybe the last of the aussies!!!

You are making me think seriously about doing a clamp blog myself
at least they wouldn't break a foot off if you dropped them.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bessey Vario, picks me up*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> ... Maybe you had better read this for some clamp therapy
> 
> http://www.dawntools.com.au/pdf/Dawn_Catalogue_2017.pdf
> 
> ...


Now that made me open my eyes, and the close up of your face near my lashes scared the bjesus out of me…

Forget the foot and break a leg… *clam* up and *p* it on a blog.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bessey Vario, picks me up*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


A job for when I return home maybe …2 or 3 week of November

Got a container of ebikes to unpack with No 1 son


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bessey Vario, picks me up*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> A job for when I return home maybe …2 or 3 week of November
> 
> Got a container of ebikes to unpack with No 1 son
> 
> - robscastle


Thought you were already back home… You carried on like an old chook about being stranded.


----------



## sawdust1whisperer (Nov 11, 2014)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bessey Vario, picks me up*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Remind me never to loan you my clamps. Lol
Would you do it to an Ehoma clamp?









It has a swivel handle for extra tightening pressure.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bessey Vario, picks me up*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> Remind me never to loan you my clamps. Lol
> Would you do it to an Ehoma clamp?
> 
> 
> ...


You wouldn't have to loan me your clamps… however, I'd be lying if I said I had enough clamps…

Would I do it to a Ehoma? I won't criticise something I don't own or haven't tried (except for Bos*¢*h sanders), however, it would depend on which serrations it has… 








if it resembles the bottom bar, I wouldn't waste my money on it.

People brag about how tight they can crank up a clamp's handle… I've found that if you apply *white knuckle* pressure, the joint would probably be starved off glue… and if you need to crank up the handle so tight to close the joint, you should address your choice of timber quality, selection of joint, timber preparation and choice of glue, first… then tighten the ******************** out of it till your knuckles bleed.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bessey Vario, picks me up*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


hey whats with "Old" chook stuff.
I was really missing my Castle and wanted sympathetic ears not some foul belittling remarks
Thank you.

pressure talk about pressure you should see what I can pull off with my Carver clamp's not even melamine could manage to squeeze out of them.

Just ask Michael Hunchinson or David Caradine

Dawn catalogue page 28 please.


----------



## sawdust1whisperer (Nov 11, 2014)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bessey Vario, picks me up*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Maybe the swivel handle is for people with arthritis or for large timber joints. But your right about squeezing the glue out of the joint.

















This is what the Ehoma clamps look like with the handle in swiveled position. They work well so far. When they first went on the market I bought 6 ea. 31" clamps for 1/2 the price of the Bessey's.

Rob,Black Duck does have a potty mouth but that's just his way of telling you how much he loves you.
If it quacks like a Dirty Duck. It's little Black Duck.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bessey Vario, picks me up*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> ... I was really missing my Castle and wanted sympathetic ears not some foul belittling remarks
> Thank you.
> - robscastle


I wasn't having a go at *Qld.* letting you *back in*, but *NSW* letting you *back out*.... but, you're welcome
(though not in plague infested Victoria).

That is a neat concept *JEM*, however after disfiguring my beloved *Besseys* I wouldn't hesitate (for days) to drill a hole through the handle for a dowel lever.
Considering the *"starve glue"* theory, the side serrations may be an overkill to justify the 2x price, however, it's got me sucked in.

Nevertheless it's not *Mr. Bessey* I want to make richer but rather spruik the benefit of the *button adjustment head jaw*.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bessey Vario, picks me up*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Al intended in jest !!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bessey Vario, picks me up*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> Al intended in jest !!
> 
> - robscastle


So I can cancel the *goon squad* heading up north?


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bessey Vario, picks me up*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Yes please unless they would like to help with the unpacking


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bessey Vario, picks me up*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Now that is *blasé *, *rc*... it's only *El Chapo* that brags about his contraband, *old chap*!

I'll let my *goon squad* continue and help relieve you off your burden.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bessey Vario, picks me up*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Clever use, will keep that in mind.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

*Bleed your bloody compressor*

*Boys* and *Girls*,

With lockdown, isolation and limited movement outside due to *C19*, I'm sure we've all been too busy doing nothing to find time and drain our compressors.

When did you last drain yours?

While according to the puritans it should be performed after each use, I'm sure most repeat draining at the same regularity as I have days without vino… neva!

Just did mine and spent about 2 hours mopping up the rusty water discharge off the concrete floor, walls and most tools nearby… should have taken it outside and killed my lawn… don't do it in the driveway else everyone will think you shat your pants after a *hot chilli* meal.

So off your *rrrs* and drain the bloody thing and mark it in your calendar to do it more than once every few years.

Keep safe *jocks*... and your *jocks* safe!


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bleed your bloody compressor*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


I do it annually as it's a big job to actually get to my compressor Alex 
My old belt drive 2hp Vee Twin Clispy is over 30yrs old and still going strong.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bleed your bloody compressor*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Same with mine, so I don't do it regularly either… but I bet there are many that have never done it once.

Also remember *crowie* 30 years ago, things were built to last… Guaranteed that most modern compressors have cheap Chinese steel built to dodgy standards. Even their rust is probably sub standard.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bleed your bloody compressor*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


C19? an absolute nonsence excuse !.... get your hands on to that cock more.

Water contamination and Diesel engines is the same as 
Water contamination and air Compressors

Drain your cock regularly! If access is a problem get a cock extension fitted
Plus it doesn't hurt to give it a hit with WD 40 up the hooter every now and then when your giving it a real flogging.

and wait there is more!

What did the dinosaur say while it was being compressed?
RAR.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bleed your bloody compressor*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Got the flexible nozzle,








for *eeze* of manoeuvrability!

What brand of dinosaur yells *RAR*?


----------



## Peteybadboy (Jan 23, 2013)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bleed your bloody compressor*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


I drain it after every use. It is so humid here.

BTW good advice


----------



## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bleed your bloody compressor*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


I have a small compressor, so it only takes about 40s to fill from 0, so I drain it after every time I use it and leave the drain valve open when not in use. I also don't use it all that often either,which helps lol


----------



## 1Woody (Mar 20, 2013)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bleed your bloody compressor*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


I have a Cobalt from Lowe's and biggest beef is the tiny drain valve hole. When ever I drain it the stuff inside always likes to plug the petcock hole. I going to need to try and open it to the nextlather size like 3/8". Has any one tried to do this?


----------



## mbg (Feb 25, 2009)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bleed your bloody compressor*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


I have a California Air and added an auto-drain to it. It scares the crap out of me when it fires but keeps the tank dry.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bleed your bloody compressor*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> I have a California Air and added an auto-drain to it. It scares the crap out of me when it fires but keeps the tank dry.
> 
> - mbg


*mbg*, I reckon a *REVIEW* of that *auto-drain* would get a lot of interest…


----------



## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bleed your bloody compressor*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Thanks for the swift kick in the rear LBD!

I have been putting this little chore off for WAY too long (not going to admit how long). That said, the water accuulation was far less that I had feared - lucky me.

I think I'll leave the drain open when not in use from now on.


----------



## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bleed your bloody compressor*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


I am so guilty of not doing this. I'll pay for it someday I know…


----------



## Dark_Lightning (Nov 20, 2009)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bleed your bloody compressor*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Every time I drain mine, I get a couple of cc of guck. But then I live in California, where the last three truly humid days were in '88. J/K, yes the compressor needs to be drained on a regular basis. Now, don't let 'regular' mean once every decade.  When I worked as a mechanic, we had to drain the compressor every night when we closed up shop. That's a safety requirement in case of fire. No need to kill firefighters responding to a fire and having the thing explode. NOPE


----------



## RCCinNC (Jul 4, 2017)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bleed your bloody compressor*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> C19? an absolute nonsence excuse !.... get your hands on to that cock more.
> 
> Water contamination and Diesel engines is the same as
> Water contamination and air Compressors
> ...


I'm still laughing Rob. Jeez buddy, not too subtle are ya! ...Oh wait a minute it's just me, Huh? ; )

Sage advice, once again from LBD. I sadly had to replace my dual tank Thomas Renegade T 2000 recently. It had been a great compressor for years, but the piston broke and destroyed the cylinder and cracked some of the motor housing in the process. Replacement parts were more expensive than buying a brand new similar spec and well reviewed Makita. I rarely drained the Thomas, and when I did…it never had rust in the water. The tanks were steel, so they must have been somehow treated to prevent rust. The Makita gets drained every day, and the water is always rusty. I guess one reason Thomas compressors are so darned expensive…but it seems like a safety feature that would be nice to see on all compressors.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bleed your bloody compressor*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


You know if the council provided Compressed Air along with the:- 
Electricty, gas and water they could rid the community and small operators of this annoying play with the cock problem.

They can provide safely, pressurised gas pressurised water, so why not cannot Air be supplied too.
Being nearly as old as LBD but also burderned with actually having to wear pants is annoyong, especially when I need to get to my cock to drain it. Service utility the air in and there will be lots of cocks no longer needing touching at all!

*BTW* I know a few other names for the cock besides Thomas! which incidentally a lot of people refer to it as.

*I rarely drained the Thomas, *

come on men its like prostrate problems …nobody wants to admit having to do it!

https://qatar.desertcart.com/products/7555969-automatic-compressor-tank-drain-kit-clog-free-discharge


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bleed your bloody compressor*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


*rc*, with your revelation, I will be draining mine on a much more regular basis… That way there won't be as big a mess to mop up.


----------



## sawdust1whisperer (Nov 11, 2014)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bleed your bloody compressor*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Good advice Duck. I drain mine after the projects done with the nailing part..
Since we're on dinosaur jokes.

Why can't you hear a pterodactyl going to the bathroom?
Because their Pee is silent.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bleed your bloody compressor*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


A teacher was doing role call in class and had called Timmy's name
A boy raises his hand and says: "Timmy is not going to be at school for a while. His brother told me he was using the air compressor on his asshole and is now in the hospital."

The teacher corrected the boy: "don't you mean rectum?"

The boy: "Wrecked him? His brother said it damn near killed him."


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bleed your bloody compressor*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> A teacher was doing role call in class and had called Timmy s name
> A boy raises his hand and says: "Timmy is not going to be at school for a while….
> - robscastle


Now that's taking the saying, *"blowing smoke up…"* to the next level.


----------



## sawdust1whisperer (Nov 11, 2014)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bleed your bloody compressor*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> A teacher was doing role call in class and had called Timmy s name
> A boy raises his hand and says: "Timmy is not going to be at school for a while….
> - robscastle
> 
> ...


In your case Duck blowing bloody rusty water up. At least you won't have iron poor blood.


----------



## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bleed your bloody compressor*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Why do I laugh whenever I read a Duck post?

Zany as always, thanks for the chuckle guys.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bleed your bloody compressor*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> Why do I laugh whenever I read a Duck post?
> 
> Zany as always, thanks for the chuckle guys.
> 
> - therealSteveN


Maybe because you pleasantly reaslise your are far from the bottom of the *mentally insane tree*.

Fortunately there are two other guys I share that spot with… and we are totally rooted!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bleed your bloody compressor*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


All for for and one for all!

Its just another mission.

Otherwise this may explain it all


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bleed your bloody compressor*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> All for for and one for all!
> 
> Its just another mission.
> 
> ...


Hmmm, There goes my university education… I thought it was *42*!... *20* out is better than zero.


----------



## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bleed your bloody compressor*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


In every industrial facility I've worked in, they always use auto drains and typically have PM schedules for testing and inspecting/adjusting them. I worked in a millwork shop and we had an 80 gallon vertical tank two stage Lincoln (rebadged Quincy) and it worked great. It was quiet and filled the tank quickly. Over time it started to fill the tank too quickly and water vapor was becoming an issue. I asked the guy who was in there full time (I was in and out as that was a fraction of my responsibilities) how often the tank was drained and he looked at me like a deer in the headlights. I showed him the valve at the bottom of the tank, now covered with dust and cobwebs, and asked him if he remembered when it was last drain, he had no idea. I decided there could be enough water in the tank a hose needed to be attached and run outside vs. a few ounces dispersed on the floor. Well, it's a good thing I did, I didn't measure the volume but I would guestimate it at around 40 gallons or half the tank full. There was surprisingly little rust which was good but that such a quantity of water was allowed to collect in there was completely unacceptable. Carrying the title of safety manager, I put together a simple SOP and made sure that it was drained daily and someone was initialing that it was done.

The facility shut down in '08 and most assests were auctioned off, including that compressor which I'd love to have if I had the space, it only went for $75 which would be a fraction of the price of the tank, rather expensive pump or 3hp single phase motor.


----------



## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bleed your bloody compressor*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Sounds familliar 8^)

I worked at a small commuter airline one summer and I loved to explore around the maintenance hangar to look at all the old parts, etc.

I ventured around back and noticed a small bump-out shed. The door was completely blocked with weeds. I asked about it and was told they "think" that is where the compressor is.

I managed to get the door opened and sure 'nuff, a horizontal monster with a 10HP motor and jumbo sized compressor jugs. I saw a drain line (manual) and opened the ball valve only to be in awe as a steady stream of rusty milk-like water was streaming from a fitting on the outside of the shack. This thing ran for minutes until the air finally started to escape. Probably a 100 gallon tank and about 110 gallons of water (this was in humid Abilene TX).
That poor thing was probably never serviced, oil changes or anything, since it was installed.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Bleed your bloody compressor*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> ... I would guestimate it at around 40 gallons or half the tank full…
> - bigblockyeti


Thx *bby*... Just goes to show it also reduces the capacity of the tank.


> ... Probably a 100 gallon tank and about 110 gallons of water…
> - splintergroup


Lucky ya got in early *splinter*... leave it a few more years and you could have sunk the titanic in the residue.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

*You're gonna need bigga wheels... Wheely!*

*Boys* and *Girls*,

If you remembered from the start that large wheels negotiate hazards in the workshop better than small wheels, you are already cruising in top gear.

Nevertheless there are two many woodworkers that have compromised on small wheels and find that those bloody annoying small slivers of timber seems like a log when you try to wheel your mobile around the workshop.

When I was still in Melbourne (Richmond), my shop floor was tongue and groove particle board sheets that was smooth as the missus's newly waxed legs and I had no issues wheeling around my mobiles on small wheels… yeah, I was cheap back in those days… no *NASA funding* (ey, *pottzy*)!

Initially I built my mini-lathe stand on small wheels and as I only used it to turn pens, stability was not a major issue and for that added stability, 2bsure 2bsure, I jacked it up on fold down braces when stationary,



































(yeah, yeah… and extension table… I made bloody *big pens*)...
Nevertheless, engaging the braces was a pain in the arse and I was determined to fins a better way to get more stability (by lowering the COG).
However, when I moved to Churchill, with the cracks in the concrete, it was more like varicose veined legs and the mobile was quickly bogged down with the small wheels.

Sometime in the past 11 years, before I joined LJ, I opted for slightly larger wheels and redesigned the wheel mounts to permit lowering of the cabinet to accept larger wheels and still maintain stability with a relatively low centre of gravity.
This is how it stands (and rolls) now,

















Before the eagle eyes (*rc*) out there start yapping about *"they're small wheels too"*, I borrowed the larger wheels for my *Workmate* not too long ago and never replaced them, thoug the wheels on it now is a tad larger than the original… don't tell me you've never played *musical wheels*?

Also a while back, I *"puttied"* the cracks with some sort of *gumbo* (no idea what, where or when) but it seems to have lasted,


















Since then, I learnt SketchUp and made a design that could be either used from the start or retro-fitted to replace small wheels… or the concept just used to lower the centre of gravity for the mobile.









I have exported an animation of the SketchUp model and provided some basic commentary before I started to mumble after opening up a cask of vino.

Hopefully it might give some readers a few ideas as I see far too many posting of great projects, however, I question the size of some of their wheels.
Personally, I have opted for heavy duty commercial mobile bases lately, so I'm only offering this as a suggestion for shekel constrained jocks.

Keep safe *jocks*... and your *jocks* safe!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *You're gonna need bigga wheels... Wheely!*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


----------



## tyvekboy (Feb 24, 2010)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *You're gonna need bigga wheels... Wheely!*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


I agree with you that bigger wheels are better for mobile bases.

However, smaller wheels that get stopped by small chunks of wood will remind you to sweep your shop floor and do a little clean up.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *You're gonna need bigga wheels... Wheely!*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


bigger wheels and only polyurethane,no hard rubber or plastic,you'll regret it.damhikt!


----------



## sawdust1whisperer (Nov 11, 2014)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *You're gonna need bigga wheels... Wheely!*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Wish I could follow that advice but hindsight etc. 
Big Wheels Keep On Turning.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *You're gonna need bigga wheels... Wheely!*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> However, smaller wheels that get stopped by small chunks of wood will remind you to sweep your shop floor and do a little clean up.
> - tyvekboy


True *tyvek*, however, better to be forewarned. One doesn't need a divorce to remind them they made a mistake.


> bigger wheels and only polyurethane,no hard rubber or plastic,you ll regret it.damhikt!
> - pottz


Thanks *pottzy*... I should have mentioned those golden rules in the body as well.


> ... but hindsight etc.
> - James E McIntyre


Hopefully *JEM*, this can give some readers a fix option. Normally, big wheels directly under a "box" craps out the COG.


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *You're gonna need bigga wheels... Wheely!*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


I just wish I had a workshop big enough to have wheeled machinery, but yes, bigger is always better.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *You're gonna need bigga wheels... Wheely!*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...












About $750 and another set (I hope) was $1100 Wow
I don't remember paying that much!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *You're gonna need bigga wheels... Wheely!*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> About $750 and another set (I hope) was $1100 Wow
> I don t remember paying that much!
> 
> - robscastle


Thanks for the heads up… Don't know why everyone says your so dumb… great idea.
I have attached a set to my router table, in case I want to *rout* around,









Thinking of freezing the concrete so I can use my ice skates.


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *You're gonna need bigga wheels... Wheely!*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Roller Derby in the shed, look out Ducky.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *You're gonna need bigga wheels... Wheely!*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> Roller Derby in the shed, look out Ducky.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


*Ralphie Valladares* was my pinup boy before the then missus trashed my roller skates.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *You're gonna need bigga wheels... Wheely!*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Its comforting to know there are other "loonies" around in these times of total despair and sometimes a loss of sense of direction at times prevails!


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *You're gonna need bigga wheels... Wheely!*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...












On my lumber rack, I've got 12 of these casters with 6 inch steel wheels rated for 1200lb each.

Still, I haven't moved it since I put a few thousand pounds of lumber on it

-Paul


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *You're gonna need bigga wheels... Wheely!*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> Its comforting to know there are other "loonies" around in these times of total despair and sometimes a loss of sense of direction at times prevails!
> - robscastle


I put bells on all my smaller wheeled mobile bases. When they get caught in a concrete crack, they can behave like trams and warn others.


> On my lumber rack, I ve got 12 of these casters with 6 inch steel wheels rated for 1200lb each.
> 
> Still, I haven t moved it since I put a few thousand pounds of lumber on it
> 
> ...


*lot* of good ideas *Oce*... Love the way you *"recessed"* your wheels… gotta file that in my memory banks that alcohol cannot touch.
However, I reckon they would have rolled easier if you didn't put them on the side of the cart.


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *You're gonna need bigga wheels... Wheely!*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Well Ducky, it took me 3 days, but I got those casters moved, and they do work better!

Holds more lumber too!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

*Crank Up your Tracks*

*Boys* and *Girls*,

I often think I should keep my mouth shut, but then I start thinking (yeah… occasionally) that there may be a few woodworkers out there just starting off and have not read through all the past tips here at LJ.

While all the veterans yawn *ho-hum*, to others this may be so obvious it is overlooked.

If you like to use *t-tracks* and like me, choose to crank them up to *white knuckle torture levels*, you may often find a* t-track* in one hand and a work *bench / jig* in the other.

Far too often I have chosen sub-strata totally inferior to the *t-track* I am intending to mount or at least it's use.

Rather than compromise practicality with thickness, if you need extra beef to secure the track, mount an appropriate strip of timber (or discretely placed blocks) under the sub-strata to give sufficient meat to deeply secure the screw. 
You may need to countersink to compensate for the beefier screw head into the *t-track*. Just don't go overboard and drill through it.

In this jig, 








I missed the 19mm x 42mm pine trips under the jig, and rather than re-position the *t-track*, I attached another strip next to the undercarriage to give support for the longer screws,








Now I can crank my *t-track* clamps up so tight that the entire workbench becomes airborne!

While we (well I am) talking about thin bases… If you want to attach something to a thin base, screw from below into a timber strip mounted above, rather than opt for a quick short screw…








Just make sure to countersink the screws,








otherwise you'll have scratch marks everywhere…

Keep safe *jocks*... and your *jocks* safe!


----------



## Rich1955 (Jan 26, 2020)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Crank Up your Tracks*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


I use T tracks all the time, but when I first started using them I did just that and ended up ripping it out of the table on my drill press. After that I learned my lesson. By the way, I'm not a beginner either.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Crank Up your Tracks*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


duckie you not feelin well today,i think this thread is the shortest and least amount of pic's youve ever done!i had to scroll up and check who it belonged to.good ideas though.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Crank Up your Tracks*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> duckie you not feelin well today,i think this thread is the shortest and least amount of pic s youve ever done!i had to scroll up and check who it belonged to.good ideas though.
> 
> - pottz


The vino started to click in… arms not long enough to reach the keyboard.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Crank Up your Tracks*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> duckie you not feelin well today,i think this thread is the shortest and least amount of pic s youve ever done!i had to scroll up and check who it belonged to.good ideas though.
> 
> - pottz
> 
> ...


i was seriously concerned,i thought maybe you had a stroke or something?


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

*Quick Eze (for threads) without antacid.*

*Boys* and *Girls*,
When I need a *quick ease* I don't mean *antacid tablets*... 








or even a *booty call* (hmm, better forgo the picture)… I'm referring to quick unthreading of lengthy threaded bolts using a quick release mechanism.









I have two basic bits of equipment at my disposal,

*Rockler* slip knobs (did a review on these).








*Push Button Nuts*.









Both can be viewed in this video.
I use these predominantly on jigs,































































But can be used anywhere I need a quick one handed release from long threaded bolts… or that super quick release from short bolts… the only downside is that with short bolts there is a tendency for the knob to be totally separated from the bolt… the button nut will automatically lock in place.

Another bonus of the *Rockler knob* is that they are economical. Because of the quick release, its easy to quickly remove from one jig and use on another… just don't lose the bolts of the *swapped out jig* and make sure you can find the bolts of the *swapped in jig*... so you don't need that many… probably 4 should suffice.

Unfortunately the button nuts come at a premium cost while the Rocker are only a tad dearer than "standard" knobs.
I did make a jig using a *button nut* activated by a dowel in guides. Unfortunately the jig was sold to a desperado before I took pictures… and if you check out their price you'd understand why I *sold it*, rather than *give it* to a *"friend of a friend of a friend"²*.

Keep safe *jocks*... and your *jocks* safe!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Quick Eze (for threads) without antacid.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> When I need a *quick ease* I don't mean *antacid tablets*...
> ...


your pushing my button on these nuts, cannot find a supplier anywhere

So where do you get em!!


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Quick Eze (for threads) without antacid.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> When I need a *quick ease* I don't mean *antacid tablets*...
> ...


Alex, I'd not heard of Push Button Nuts so did a google search, WOW!
1/4" / M6 start at US$11:50 each. 
Understand why you changed to the Rockler parts which start at US$4 each.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Quick Eze (for threads) without antacid.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> When I need a *quick ease* I don't mean *antacid tablets*...
> ...





> ... cannot find a supplier anywhere
> 
> So where do you get em!!
> 
> ...


I sourced them from *Yankeeland* so the shekel count was higher… The one good thing about either one is that because of the quick release you don't need a swag as they are easily swapped out… unless you inbuild the button nuts in a sealed jig.

I basically posted this to make people aware of their existence… sourcing is your/their nightmare… like 1/4" brass knurled nuts. If the *need is big enough* the cost is insignificant. For someone that's a hardware hoarder, my *button nut* supply is at a bare minimum… for those emergencies that seem to continually plague me.


----------



## Dutchy (Jun 18, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Quick Eze (for threads) without antacid.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> When I need a *quick ease* I don't mean *antacid tablets*...
> ...


I basically posted this to make people aware of their existence

I wasn't aware and glad you posted this item. I have read most of the text, and you can call that remarkable. Thanks Alex.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

*Fishnet stockings, not panty, for your hose…*

*Boys* and *Girls*,

If you don't suck in your workshop then you need not read any further, however, if you occasionally get that sucker snagged on a sharp corner, this little snippet may be of use.

Unless you own a fancy Fe*$*tool vac with the expensive anti-static non-ribbed hose (top hose)








or duct your hose overhead, you may find you often snag the ribbing of the hose on sharp edges.

I feed the hoses I use on the end of dust generating tools through a 40mm flexible sleeve 

















to create a smooth surface that will glide smoothly over sharp edges.

I have both 25mm and 40mm sleeves. 








Unfortunately I bought my supply over 5 years ago and the WEB site no longer puts its hand up during a roll call, so I cannot recommend any honest/reliable suppliers.

Nevertheless you may find a supplier if you Google, 
*"40mm pet expandable sleeving"* (you can leave the *pet* at home).

Just watch what is on offer as some only sell in 1 or 2 meter lengths… having said that, you may choose to only cover the working end of the hose in which case shorter lengths may suffice.

As all 2 ½" hoses are never the same diameter, here is a to a chart 



  





(*left click on the picture* if you can't read it, right click if you can, but that'll do nothing other than bring up a useless drop-down) that you can use to determine what you may need for your workshop… take note of the *"Expandable Range"* column.

I chucked together a video that's more like a dogs breakfast and should be *hosed* down.

Keep safe, *jocks*... and your *jocks*, safe!


----------



## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Fishnet stockings, not panty, for your hose…*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


video dont work :<((((((((((((


----------



## Woodnmetal (Jul 24, 2021)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Fishnet stockings, not panty, for your hose…*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


That nylon braid is good stuff. The stainless steel braid also works well but a little more $$.
That is a great idea, no need for 200MPH "DUCK" tape when the hose splits and cracks going around corners now.

Gary


----------



## Dutchy (Jun 18, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Fishnet stockings, not panty, for your hose…*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Thanks!


----------



## RonStewart (Jul 18, 2011)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Fishnet stockings, not panty, for your hose…*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Great idea, LBD! I have the Festool ribbed hose, and it does catch the edges of my workpieces frequently.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Fishnet stockings, not panty, for your hose…*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


*no page found duck !!!!!* sorry too yell bud but it's sunday night and im into the vino.i know you understand that!!!! so hears the deal, i dont wear panty hose,anymore! but you and your high dollar nasa workshop gizmo's are way above the average joe blow woodworker man.can the man on the street keep up with you ? your a god too me but probably only slightly worshiped by most. (im bowing in your presense) peace!


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Fishnet stockings, not panty, for your hose…*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


An appropriate idea for expensive vacuum hose Alex, but a bit of an over kill for those of us with cheaper aftermarket hose.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Fishnet stockings, not panty, for your hose…*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> An appropriate idea for expensive vacuum hose Alex, but a bit of an over kill for those of us with cheaper aftermarket hose.
> 
> - crowie


I don't sheath all my hoses… only the ones that attach to hand manipulated tools like sanders, circular saws, Domino etc…
I have a central shop-vac colector with ducting to each corner of the workshop with a dedicated *cheap* hose on the end of each… 








As I don't drag these over sharp corners they are not covered.

However, the right sized sleeve fits any hose, even the *cheapest Ozito* vac's hose you can buy








a tad more upmarket *Ryobi* hose….








the original *Hitachi* hose (vac has just died and replaced by Fe*$*tool)








but I still use the old *Hitachi* hose on the new vac… the new Fe*$*tool hose has been re-purposed, even though it doesn't need the "protection".
All the above were fitted with the 25mm (grey) and 40mm (red) sleeves.

Even an on sale discontinued * pool hose* (in another corner) will accept the 40mm sleeve,











> video dont work :<((((((((((((
> 
> - GR8HUNTER


Anyone else have trouble accessing the video… or were you smart enough to avoid the link?


> *no page found duck !!!!!*..... way above the average joe blow woodworker …..
> - pottz


Wot page? If its the price list page for your vino catalog I can't help…

Was it the link to the picture… anyone else with the *pottzy* conundrum of giving *Joe* a blow?


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Fishnet stockings, not panty, for your hose…*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> An appropriate idea for expensive vacuum hose Alex, but a bit of an over kill for those of us with cheaper aftermarket hose.
> 
> - crowie
> 
> ...


hey im talking about your (duct your hose overhead) link that doesn't work ducking !

maybe it will show up tomorrow,wait, i think it already is tomorrow ?


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Fishnet stockings, not panty, for your hose…*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> ..... hey im talking about your (duct your hose overhead) link that doesn t work ducking !
> 
> maybe it will show up tomorrow,wait, i think it already is tomorrow ?
> - pottz


Thanks *pottzy*, maybe you should always wait till tomorrow… tomorrow, wait till tomorrow, etc…

Actually it was a deliberate mistake… any excuse to punish myself,









Should be fixed, unless my welts heal quickly.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Fishnet stockings, not panty, for your hose…*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


video run 201632SEP2021








!


----------



## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Fishnet stockings, not panty, for your hose…*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Hmmmm. not a bad idea there Duck! Best thing IMO is the light weight.

Usually when my vac/collector hose snags, I just yank hard until something gives. Eventually evolution will win and survival of the fittest and all that.


----------



## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Fishnet stockings, not panty, for your hose…*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> video run 201632SEP2021
> 
> 
> 
> ...


thats what im getting :<((((((((((


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Fishnet stockings, not panty, for your hose…*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Arrr its the pesky pup chewing the power cord again!!!

I log in put is some secret code and wait and all I get is the pup!

What goes on?

The video had better be LBD doing a jig in the workshop in fishies or I will be pisssed


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Fishnet stockings, not panty, for your hose…*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


come on LBD all ITers work 24/7 get it fixed ASAP
BTW whats all that palaver in your homepage about ?


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Fishnet stockings, not panty, for your hose…*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> come on LBD all ITers work 24/7 get it fixed ASAP
> BTW whats all that palaver in your homepage about ?
> 
> - robscastle


I have no idea what you guys are on about… maybe you should pay your ISP bill. I get the link and it is published as *"public"* so even the police should not prevent your access.

Try this link,


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Fishnet stockings, not panty, for your hose…*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


It worked for me, but the hawaiian shirt was a bit scary…


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Fishnet stockings, not panty, for your hose…*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


If I ever find the material pattern for the smock, I am going to make a LBD shirt just like LBDs because he is my hero!

Now i am no IT expert but I did pick up on the new link, and sure enough it worked as opposed to the old

I chucked together a video that's more like a dogs breakfast and should be hosed down.

which still doesn't bloody work! got the pup yet again!

Sadly there was no fishnet tango in the workshop to be seen.
I remember using something similar on my little sister called Chinese handcuffs, of which I thought it was bloody funny until I got a nasty flea in the ear from Mom!...I think she threw them in the Rayburn fire on me.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Fishnet stockings, not panty, for your hose…*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


I have been working on my mates Jet Ski,... its been idle for five years brought it back to life today










Yee ha!!










Smoked out the neighbours and mamaged to set my bloody smoke alarms off in The Castlle!


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Fishnet stockings, not panty, for your hose…*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> I have been working on my mates Jet Ski,... its been idle for five years brought it back to life today
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Have you got a boat licence Rob. 
Great boating on one of them on Moreton Bay.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Fishnet stockings, not panty, for your hose…*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Being an ex skier, they'd be great… but I reckon a bugger on the pole plants









if you could see the mongrels (*moguls*)!


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Fishnet stockings, not panty, for your hose…*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> I have been working on my mates Jet Ski,... its been idle for five years brought it back to life today
> 
> 
> 
> ...


looks like a two pack a day habit rc.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Fishnet stockings, not panty, for your hose…*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


sorry couldn't help myself, I went shopping at Aldi and bought a bag of mandarins!


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Fishnet stockings, not panty, for your hose…*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> sorry couldn t help myself, I went shopping at Aldi and bought a bag of mandarins!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Fishnet stockings, not panty, for your hose…*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> sorry couldn t help myself, I went shopping at Aldi and bought a bag of mandarins!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


*Mandarins* be buggered… that looks like a bursting bag of *one onion*!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Fishnet stockings, not panty, for your hose…*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Ha ha yep coin in the slot trolleys here too best solution going to control them .

Yeah enough to make your eyes water that's for sure!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

*No Monkeying Around With a Strap-on (Wrench)...*

*Boy* and *Girls*,

While contemplating the publishing of my next *puzzle project*… a visitor to my workshop instigated a conversation that led me to document this *"Workshop operational tip"*... (though I was tempted to post it as a *Review*).

Being a vino drinker, I have been *briefed* about *decanting*… though there's a tad difference between *being briefed* and *demonstrable actions*... I don't decant *Cask-o-vino*.

Nevertheless my education has percolated down into the workshop and as I usually buy in *"bulk"*, I adopted the art of decanting for some of my degradable liquified consumables. 
If you decant too little, you can always decant some more, but if you decant too much, unlike vino which you can drink the excess, you can't *"undecant"* the surplus shop liquids in case of contamination.

Consequently I stockpile glass jars,








to store the *surplus decantations* in.

Unfortunately many *"chems"* like tung/Danish/linseed oils, shellac, varnish and wipe-ons that I religiously decant, have the tendency to gum up the lids of their respective underbelly jars, and if you are slack like me and wait days before the next coat (or months before the next project… unless it's a puzzle), finish up struggling to get that bloody lid off… and when/if you eventually succeed, you find your 2nd. decantation over the front of your shirt (or nightie).

Out of desperation, I initially resorted to using one of these "kitchen utensil" lid openers,








to remove gummed up lids, however, the jagged edges tended to perforate the lid, potentially degrading its air seal.
I looted the kitchen again and imported this gizmo into the workshop,








While it exerted a decent grip, it still had the tendency to indented/distorted any lid that wasn't a close fit to any of it's 4 profiles.

Somehow I legally got hold of one of these rubberised *"strap wrenches"* I saw on a discount table at my local hardware, 








designed for oil filter removal… and often used by plumbers on PVC fittings. These proved to be the best alternative to maintain the integrity of the tight lids for removal and subsequent sealing.

I try to buy "snacks" packaged in square jars, so I can place them into my vice for a grip on the glass jar while I tackle the lid with the "wrench",








You don't have to get too close to your screen to see the congealed liquid around the rim,








that used to give me so much grief in the past.

I found a second "wrench" ideal for times when I ran out of square jars,








for that complimentary grip on the round jar… or just felt vindictive against the square ones.

While the larger ones would work on smaller jars, I found two smaller ones 








more practical with my dodgy left hand and recalcitrant right thumb. 
Word of warning… You need to take care if lying the jar on it's side to just barely loosen the grip, otherwise you'll spill the contents… its preferable to keep the jar vertical.

Feeling self-complacent about sharing this knowledge, I decided to resurrect my acting career, donned the animal nightie and made this video for *yazall too lazy* to read the above prattle.

You've been warned about my forthcoming puzzle project and rest assured this post is just a deferment not a replacement, so feel free to pencil it into your calendar of *"AME"* (*A*nticipated *M*omentous *E*vents).

Keep safe, *jocks*... and your *jocks*, safe!


----------



## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *No Monkeying Around With a Strap-on (Wrench)...*
> 
> *Boy* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


interesting tip.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *No Monkeying Around With a Strap-on (Wrench)...*
> 
> *Boy* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


nice intermission duckie but as far as the next puzzle my anticipation is like your love of a fine turned bowl.ill stay tuned though.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *No Monkeying Around With a Strap-on (Wrench)...*
> 
> *Boy* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Oh yes a very interesting tip I didn't realise you could use a strap on jars

I will have get a couple for my workshop …just in case I cannot get one open normally.
Whats your recommendation a large one or a small one..wait may be a pair of both would be fun!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *No Monkeying Around With a Strap-on (Wrench)...*
> 
> *Boy* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Thanks *Sylvain*.


> ..... as far as the next puzzle my anticipation…..
> - pottz


C'mon *pottzy*... I know you've already set you *countdown clock*!


> .... Whats your recommendation a large one or a small one..wait may be a pair of both would be fun!
> - robscastle


Like the *missus* always accuses me of… *no brainer*.... not *"a" pair*, but,


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *No Monkeying Around With a Strap-on (Wrench)...*
> 
> *Boy* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


I think I saw something similar on my Sons Ute tow bar!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *No Monkeying Around With a Strap-on (Wrench)...*
> 
> *Boy* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> I think I saw something similar on my Sons Ute tow bar!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Is that his 4 wheeled *dog*?


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *No Monkeying Around With a Strap-on (Wrench)...*
> 
> *Boy* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> Oh yes a very interesting tip I didn t realise you could use a strap on jars
> 
> I will have get a couple for my workshop …just in case I cannot get one open normally.
> Whats your recommendation a large one or a small one..wait may be a pair of both would be fun!
> ...


so your interested in a "strap on" rc ?


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *No Monkeying Around With a Strap-on (Wrench)...*
> 
> *Boy* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Very interested now.
I did a recycle run during the week taking cardboard electric bike boxes to the waste transit center.
When I arrived I noticed one of my tie down strap ons were missing!

god knows where that is lying, possible in the gutter somewhere !

I hope if somebody finds it the get as much enjoyment from it as I did and I payed for the thing too.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *No Monkeying Around With a Strap-on (Wrench)...*
> 
> *Boy* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> ... I arrived I noticed one of my tie down strap ons were missing!
> 
> god knows where that is lying…
> - robscastle


Hope you are *NOT inferring* its next to your *wallet*!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

*Parking your router without driving lessons.*

*Boy* and *Girls*,

I'm sure this has been posted many times before and most crusty LJ'ers are aware of this, however, I'm hoping there may be a newbie or two that hasn't had this tip thrown in their face and are too slack to interrogate the "archives".

While using my *Leigh D4R* dovetailer making a cabinet for my over populated puzzles menagerie, I set up this *router parking bay* without thinking… 









While taking other photos for an upcoming project post, I thought that there may be other people out there that may struggle with parking their routers with the bit protruding during the progress of a project. 


















Don't get me wrong, it's not that I'm advocating a *cheap* solution as I am a devout advocat of *SKI* (*S*pend *K*id's *I*nheritance)… the one good thing about this, as opposed to a *shop-made stand* out of exotics or fancy purchased alternatives, you won't give a toss if you park it accidentally before the brake cuts in… all that gets tossed is the replaceable roll… at least you won't need to book an *advanced parking course* or revert to *"P" plates* if you bugger up the manoeuvre.

While I could attempt to park it in one of my 20mm dogholes, 








I just don't have the need for any 40mm oblong holes.

This may not be much chop if you hand cut your dovetails, but it may be handy for other free-hand router adventures. Furthermore, there's no such thing as a *woodworker* without a roll of *duct tape*… so you already have a bloody good foundation,









Any roll will work, however, I do suggest you choose one appropriate for the outer and that protruding router bit. Obviously this *red roll* may be an unfavorable chioice,








and for once, 








even the trusty *"duck" tape* let the team down.

You could always use some left over/recycled PVC pipes,








though I thoroughly recommend you trim to size.

Keep safe, *jocks*... and your *jocks*, safe!


----------



## Dutchy (Jun 18, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Parking your router without driving lessons.*
> 
> *Boy* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


You need a lot of these stands.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Parking your router without driving lessons.*
> 
> *Boy* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


I could have used some duck tape
especially after failing to duck the concete footpath

PS looks like your accessory runs rings around shop bought ones


----------



## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Parking your router without driving lessons.*
> 
> *Boy* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Love the safety tape!


----------



## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Parking your router without driving lessons.*
> 
> *Boy* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


I like the Duck tape idea! If the roll is old enough there should be enough adhesive ooze on the sides so it'll stay put (stuck to the router base or the bench 8^)

Have you considered a bungy cord? Do your routing, then let it loose and it'll be pulled up to the ceiling and out of your hair (metaphorically speaking of course 8^)


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Parking your router without driving lessons.*
> 
> *Boy* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Oh my, the silly season has started with a cracker….


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Parking your router without driving lessons.*
> 
> *Boy* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> Have you considered a bungy cord? Do your routing, then let it loose and it ll be pulled up to the ceiling and out of your hair (metaphorically speaking of course 8^)
> 
> - splintergroup


I use bungy for my hoses and cords…

Theat *sprooiinnnnggg* concept sounds good, but to get the equilibrium set up everytime I route on a different corner of my workshop would take a tad longer than to toss a roll of tape on the bench… The next time it stays on an edge and rolls off the table, I might investigate further.

Actually the *duct tape* is a last resort when you run out of TP… I remember once I was routing for about 10 minutes and getting nowhere till I realised the roll was still tacked to the base of the router… lifting the entire bench when you pick up the router is another indications of leaky duct tape.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Parking your router without driving lessons.*
> 
> *Boy* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> I could have used some duck tape
> especially after failing to duck the concete footpath
> - robscastle


Just pack your *duck tape* in *feathers* so when you fall *down*, it's a soft landing… the feathers will also soak up the blood…



> You need a lot of these stands.
> 
> - Dutchy


You could get about 10 stands from this PVC pipe,









... or 20 and use short router bits.


----------



## Pjonesy (Feb 20, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Parking your router without driving lessons.*
> 
> *Boy* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Looks like you are on a role there Alex.


----------



## DevinT (Mar 25, 2021)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Parking your router without driving lessons.*
> 
> *Boy* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


I had a really good laugh at the last photo. "Like, he really staged that photo, LoL"


----------



## woodshaver (Mar 21, 2009)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Parking your router without driving lessons.*
> 
> *Boy* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


I just flip my router upside down and sit it down that way. The top is flat on one of my routers but I must lay my Makita router on it's side (no flat top) so your Duck tape one will do for me! Thanks!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Parking your router without driving lessons.*
> 
> *Boy* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> I had a really good laugh at the last photo. "Like, he really staged that photo, LoL"
> 
> 
> 
> ...


No staging *DT*... for my dovetails on a long board, I had to climb a "ladder"... 









so the pipe was no issue… having to walk 4 meters to it was.



> I just flip my router upside down and sit it down that way. The top is flat on one of my routers but I must lay my Makita router on it s side (no flat top) so your Duck tape one will do for me! Thanks!
> 
> - woodshaver Tony C


The Fe*$*tool will stand on it's head, but it must like vino as much as me as it kept falling over…. and *yazall* know my feeling about *UGH! sideways*...

Had the same problem with my *Makita*... but after cutting the cord off and disecting the micro adjuster (what a stupid design), I found the roll was a better option on the second *Makita*.

The *Milwaukee* trimmer wiill stand upside down on the battery, however, I'm worried about poking an eye out with the protruding router bit… I use BIG bits.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Parking your router without driving lessons.*
> 
> *Boy* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


I have a big Router bit


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

*Remember "Fe$tool VACSYS"...?*

*Boys* and *Girls*,

I was tossing up where to post this and decided on it as a *tip* for all you jocks that have fantasised about the *Fe$tool VACSYS* but deferring it till the dodgy son-in-law and his biker mates manage to pull off that bank job so you could afford the full set.

I recently posted a video about my 



,



  





and heard rumblings that it may be discontinued in that there *US* of the *A*.

While this post is loosely related to the video, my only regret is that I hadn't bought it years ago… maybe should have in a past life centuries ago!
I do recommend the dual heads… more shekels, but exponential convenience.

I have mine so it's no skin off my nose, but without delving into great depths I have gleaned that it is not being decommissioned, but rather discontinued due to political red-tape issues with certification (or maybe re-certification). 
I hope this is just a rumor or a *Fe$tool* announcement to bolster sales, however, if you still have that incling, I suggest you get off your rrrs quickly and do your own due diligence asap.

If the ******************** actually hits the fan, all I can suggest to all you *Freckles*s, you may be able to acquire a 240V version internationally along with a transformer if you don't have a 240V socket… well you can have the socket but 240V feeding that socket.

Alternatively, do a Grabo adaptation,


  








  








  






So…. my *tip* is… *you have been warned*... and lets hope the *rumor* is just that.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Remember "Fe$tool VACSYS"...?*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


That's about as funny as Errol Flynn and his pork and string trick with ducks!

See attached Christmas present










I think if you asked Dave P nicely he may loan you one of his spoon bits

Otherwise
I could do a Freddy Mercury impersonation for you










Then failing all that arousing your feathers refer to picture No 1 !

tee hee!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Remember "Fe$tool VACSYS"...?*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Sorry *rc* you've lost me, maybe I should wait another month for the vino over Christmas to wear off.

The *Errol* I regularly practice to keep the family in line, and that *spreadable spam* has me juicing up… maybe I need another drink to catch up.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Remember "Fe$tool VACSYS"...?*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


*Boys* and *Girls*, nothing official from head office, but I have been advised it is discontinued.

So, to all you procrastinators, the boat has sailed.

To think, I had a swag of videos to post… but even I'm not mean enough to rub salt into the wound,


----------



## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Remember "Fe$tool VACSYS"...?*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


What does one do if they get their face or other body part stuck to that thing and the switch is out of reach?

These are questions that the panel of lawyers consider before a product can be loosed upon the unwashed citizens.

It's a fine balance between maximizing the lawyers consumer lawsuit profits versus allowing a foreign company to profit.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Remember "Fe$tool VACSYS"...?*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> ... or other body part stuck to that thing…
> - splintergroup


Lean back and enjoy!

But that is a conundrum that latecomers will not have to endure.

My good deed for the day… saving people thousands of shekels NOT hiring lawyers…

*PS.* For the climax, I have the switch on a foot plug and that plug is plugged into an *"Alexa*" scream controlled plug.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

*Give your Fe$tool VAC$Y$ a kick along.*

*Boy* and *Girls*,

It's hard to make something perfect *"perfecter"*… but here is an example.

I have been overwhelmed by my *Fe$tool VAC$Y$*, 

















and my only disappointment is that I didn't buy it many years ago.

OK, there was one other thing that could have been improved, and that was access to the on/off switch, which can be made easy or difficult depending on where the idiotic owner places the systainer… the latest version of the pump is enclosed in a systainer with the switch on the side.









Whether it be lack of space or imagination in planning, I found that my button was in an awkward spot to reach over my work and making it more convenient would upset the current layout… and my *Chi*,

















Even though the vacuum clamping still operates after the pump is switched off, a more practical option is to switch the pump off when you release the vacuum to remove the work. 
Being space constrained, even one wasted foot in the workshop is an unnecessary overhead (or more precisely, underfoot)… so why not toggle the pump using that spare foot. As the pump release is operated by a foot lever, I thought the ideal place for a toggle switch would be near the foot lever.

While surfing the NET for a foot operated powerboard, I found this particular *PowerCube*, 








that came with a *battery-less remote* that was so designed that it was ideal to double sided tape it to the *VAC$Y$*'s vacuum release foot mechanism.

















No longer is the solution *at hand* but only a foot away.

I plan to do a review on the *PowerCube* and will retro-link it here, if it ever *"stays on the ground"* and I don't forget…

I've yet to master separating my toes so I can switch both "buttons" off at once, however, two foot presses , as opposed to 2' presses, is not an obnoxious overhead.

If you own a *VAC$Y$*, you may find this tip useful and if you are thinking about it, read this blog that seems to be current at the moment.

FAIW, this concept can readily adapted to any machinery that doesn't have a built in *mag-switch* or if it does, (I didn't say this…) it can readily be replaced by a standard switch without jeopardising warranty and overall safety.
(*LBD's Warning:* Tampering with original switches may void warraties and under some circumstances negate safety features.)

Keep safe, *jocks*... and your *jocks*, safe!


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## FrenchGoattoys (Jan 31, 2019)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Give your Fe$tool VAC$Y$ a kick along.*
> 
> *Boy* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


So, I don't have much to say about this. But wanted to add something.


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Give your Fe$tool VAC$Y$ a kick along.*
> 
> *Boy* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


I wanted to deliver some *Frenchie*... but drank it before the plane took off.


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

*TSO Power-Loc Dogs that Bark as well as Bite.*

*Boys* and *Girls*,

Since I bought my *TSO Power-Loc Dogs* around 6 months ago, I have been spruiking them and may have portrayed misinformation of them.

Personally, I look upon them as a *"profileless clamp"* to hold jigs 








and other paraphernalia 








to MFT style benches/tabletops. 
They are not the *"traditional"* type of a bench dog.








Nevertheless you can convert them into a bench dog by drilling a 20mm hole in a block of wood, chamfer it and use the *TSO dogs*,








to anchor them to your bench. They can simply be inserted into a dog hole, however, I recommend that they be tightened with an allen key… or using a cordless drill on the lowest torque setting,








(another *tip* and this one's a *freebie*).

They can then be used as a dog stop,








and for thicker benchtops recess the chamfer deeper,








to compensate.

Unfortunately if you want two dogs (no joke intended), unless you are meticulous with your measurements and subsequent execution, you could sacrifice the MFT style feature of your bench due to incorrect centering of the dog in the timber.

I have managed to find a workaround for this… the downside is that for 100% (+/- 0.05% mm) accuracy, you'll need access to a laser… a CNC may suffice, however, the potential tearout/cleanup may jeopardise accuracy.

I have designed and cut out these collars from 6mm MDF. 








That can now now be substituted for *"normal dogs"*








using the *TSO Dogs* and the drill,








You can stack the collars according to requirements and the thickness of the benchtop

Because of the accuracy of the laser, you can be guaranteed that on any spot of the collar perimeter, you'll be exactly 15mm from the centre of the dog hole.

With such precission, you can maintain the integrity of the MDF style concept of your table top. This perfect 90° corner fits precisely against the dogs,


















Now I appreciate that MDF can throw *wobblies* when subjected to humidity changes, however, all the collars being identical in size, should be equally affected creating a proportionate margin for error that will retain integrity.

For the faint hearted, I have created a set of collars out of *acrylic* 








that will not be affected by even spilled vino… you may cuss at the loss of the savoury brew but not on its moisture affect on the dog collars.
To compensate for the laser kerf, the OD was 30.3mm and the ID was 19.8mm to yield a 30mm OD and 20mm ID respectively, collar… as can be identified by the engraving on the collars.

I have also made a set of 25mm collars 

















to fit the *TSO dogs* that can be used instead of the supplier's recommended *Veritas dogs* for use with the *UJK Parf System Mk.I*

















the one on the left is the recommended *Veritas dog*... or if you just want a 25mm dia. dog if you are kinky.

As I've mentioned in the past, don't be threatened by the mention of lasers… laser cutting per se, can be relatively cheap as the majority of the costs is in the design and setup. If you provide the specs and material, I am advised it'd probably be cheaper than the petrol used to drive to the service centre… and if you have access to a laser, then you've got no bloody excuse!

I have made another of my impromptu videos and all the files I used can be plagiarised using this link.

Don't let the original *"collarless"* limitation deprive you of extending the versatility of your clamping horizons using these *dog clamps*. You can now have a *bench dog* that *bites* (clamps)... and *barks* ("dogs").

Keep safe, *jocks*... and your *jocks*, safe!


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## Dutchy (Jun 18, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *TSO Power-Loc Dogs that Bark as well as Bite.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Interesting!


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *TSO Power-Loc Dogs that Bark as well as Bite.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Very informative!


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## HowardAppel (Feb 3, 2010)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *TSO Power-Loc Dogs that Bark as well as Bite.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


And thank you for introducing me to the word "spruiking."


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *TSO Power-Loc Dogs that Bark as well as Bite.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


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## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *TSO Power-Loc Dogs that Bark as well as Bite.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


well duckie another one of your gotta have it do dads that well,i dont gotta have.sorry but ill pass on this one ! but i do appreciate your effort to inform us !


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *TSO Power-Loc Dogs that Bark as well as Bite.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> well duckie another one of your gotta have it do dads that well,i dont gotta have.sorry but ill pass on this one ! but i do appreciate your effort to inform us !
> 
> - pottz


Never knock what you haven't tried… that's why I only just make snide whispers about the *Bos¢h sander* lately.

That's like the *300 Spartans* who said they don't need a *Pfeifer-Zeliska . 600 Nitro Express Revolver* and chose *swords* and *spears* instead… but if they had a couple of those "little" babies… even just one…. they could've reversed the tables on *Xerxes*, and all the middle east would be speaking *Greek*.


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

*Come to Grips with Keyless Chucks on your Drill Press.*

*Boy* and *Girls*,

I believe that Drill Presses all come with keyed chucks as it is hard to tighten a keyless chuck similar to the little trick with cordless drill chucks… *Google* it if you don't know how to apply that lock using a *"reverse twist"*.

If like me, you've gone *thrill-seeker* and replaced the original with a keyless chuck, 








you may appreciate the issue I've encountered while cranking up the chuck to get a good grip on some of my drill bits.

I don't know about other DP brands, however, most of my better ones had a quill lock, but none had a spindle (rotation) lock.

Much as I love my *Nova Voyager*, it has a very "freely rotating spindle" that just about makes a one handed chuck tightening impossible… even holding the drill bit tight enough to get the other hand into the action. 
Fairly soon after the initial launch, the manufacturer released some firmware to permit locking of the spindle. 
Neat undertaking, and while it is quite effective, I have to navigate through the menu to select the *"Spindle Lock"* feature.



























While usually the lock is sufficient, I've found that under certain circumstances I needed some *white knuckle* pressure that was difficult to achieve.
I still retain my keyed chuck and have had occasions where I had no alternative but to temporarily swap them out.

I won't bore you with why I need it, other than I do and I'm guessing there may be other out there feeling the same.

Now I'm sure the following concept is not new to many, however, like me, you probably think about it but slackly, never execute it. 
Well, I finally have.

To overcome this I have two cheap multi grips permanently hanging on a board near the drill press,









that have their jaws lined with leather strips 








to protect the chucks surface from disfiguring scratches.
The grips are bargain basement jobs, but are ideal for those odd occasions where I need to *force* the chuck.

In the past I used two of these rubberised oil filter removers,








however, they were a pain to set up for the big *"squeeze"*… that's why I graduated to the multi grip.
While my *Voyager* spindle lock is sufficient for 99% of my requirements, this may make life a tad easier for someone taking the time to read this.

Keep safe, *jocks*... and your *jocks*, safe!


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## Dutchy (Jun 18, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Come to Grips with Keyless Chucks on your Drill Press.*
> 
> *Boy* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


I read it! Had some time. Thanks for the tip.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Come to Grips with Keyless Chucks on your Drill Press.*
> 
> *Boy* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


I have always got time
Well Keyless chucks may have been a great invention but unless you have hex shanked bits you are certain to experience slippage an then they become the bain of our lives.
Unless you have a special Chuck!


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Come to Grips with Keyless Chucks on your Drill Press.*
> 
> *Boy* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


I have the Nova Voyager and put a keyless on it. Yes, I have experienced the same issue and needed to use large pliers to get loose.

I by ave not encountered any issues of slippage.


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Come to Grips with Keyless Chucks on your Drill Press.*
> 
> *Boy* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> ..... Well Keyless chucks may have been a great invention but…..
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Have you tried that trick with the cordless drills?

As for bloody *Chucky*... I tried that *Total Gym*, but SWMBO still manages to *moon-slap* the hell outta me… 
At least *Smithy* had the decency of a frontal assault!


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Come to Grips with Keyless Chucks on your Drill Press.*
> 
> *Boy* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> I have the Nova Voyager and put a keyless on it. Yes, I have experienced the same issue and needed to use large pliers to get loose.
> 
> I by ave not encountered any issues of slippage.
> 
> - Redoak49


I get issues with large bits when I use the *reverse spin* option and the chuck "undoes" and the bit gets jammed in the job.

Have you upgraded your firmware? Somewhere in one of the upgrades, the power of the software spindle lock has improved.


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Come to Grips with Keyless Chucks on your Drill Press.*
> 
> *Boy* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


I upgraded the software a few years ago.


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

*Glass Jars for those recalcitrant chems.*

*Boys* and *Girls*,

During the *C19 Pandemic*, I treated myself to a few new Fe*$*tool tools. This is noting to do with them, though I may do a review later, they dragged me down to the workshop and make me do some "workshop kinkies" that SWMBO might deliver a moon-slap in disgust.

For once I will avoid powered tools and turn my back on hand tools. I will crap on about those workshop incidentals that most just tend to ignore.

To minimise cross contamination I decant most of my chems/paints/stains/*shellac*, into glass jars. I wrote a tip on how to undo jars.

With this PITA *C19* putting a dent into my activities, I found that my venture into "traditional workshoping" has taken a back seat to my *puzzling laser work*... (sorry gotta spruik my financier… ME).... you've all been following my puzzle mania… haven't *yazall*?

Returning to the workshop and hitting the jars with the 2 strap method, I had more OOPSIES with "horizontal orientation" spills than glasses of vino consumed in the last 10 minutes.

Faster curing tung oil and a traditional mix of shellac has the tendency to glue the lid to the jar… not to mention all those contraband chemicals that invade some selective noses… though I'm not condoning ample splinkling of sawdust/flour for workshop foothold stability.

*If you are bored so far (as I've been know to crap on… but the goods are about to come), there are many more interesting LJ threads to satisfy your druthers…*

This may seem obvious to the psychos (or is it psychics) out there, but I have found two ways to prevent those spillages while I used to battle with the two straps on a horizontal jar.

*Fully graduate to square jars. *








If I detect an item in a square jar, 








I buy it and then determine if I like it. If I like it, I have a great source of square jars and if I don't, I hold my nose and try to eat the stuff without proclaiming disgust of the stuff and wear my badge of abhorrance with nose-held pride. They can be inserted in a vice and with minimal pressure stabilise them for use with 1 strap wrench, 








If You're no square and claim rotundness, get some rubber padding,








I got this from *Clark Rubber*, however, if it's a tad too far to shop from Yankeeland, Google it's local equivalent. I use the semi-soft 6mm x 100mm (to length) rubber strips to grab round jars in my vice








I can crank it up to a reasonable force without fear of mega sweeping and cuts in the base of my thongs (flip-flops) of glass shards.

*BTW:* Shellac (liquid) has a limited shelf life, however, expired shellac mixed at 1:10 (depending on your cut) with metho (DNA), make a brilliant *sanding sealer*…. So don't throw out that *non-tackie* shellac (test used for determining expiry). Aren't you glad you didn't stop reading…


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Glass Jars for those recalcitrant chems.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


https://www.thelondoneconomic.com/must-reads/pensioner-diversifies-rubber-business-making-erotic-gear-sex-dungeons-69196










I am not sure which one is applicable tee hee!!!


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## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Glass Jars for those recalcitrant chems.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


is it time for the stooges to rise up one more time ? what say you stooges ? it's been too long IMHO !!!!


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## Dutchy (Jun 18, 2012)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Glass Jars for those recalcitrant chems.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


I have read the last paragraph. Too bad I never use shellac.


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Glass Jars for those recalcitrant chems.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> https://www.thelondoneconomic.com/must-reads/pensioner-diversifies-rubber-business-making-erotic-gear-sex-dungeons-69196
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Lets just opt for,








without the guns.


> is it time for the stooges to rise up one more time ? what say you stooges ? it s been too long IMHO !!!!
> - pottz


*pottzy*, it'd be great to get the band back together of, the *rc*, the *pottzy* and the *black sea* (read that quickly), however it's a tad early to hijack even one of our threads on the first day.


> I have read the last paragraph. Too bad I never use shellac.
> - Dutchy


A *Dutchman* that doesn't shellac, is like a *Yankee* that either likes or doesn't like *The Donald*... they're called *Cubans*!

Have you downloaded and watched this overlong video?


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## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Glass Jars for those recalcitrant chems.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...


Love the Jars Duck!

Started with the masons since one could unscrew the ring then pry off the lid, but often the contents would bugger the ring up tight as well. Being round, as pointed out here, meant I needed leverage. Usually "clamping" the jar in the crotch and squeezing with the legs. Common result was the lid popping off, sloshing the contents on the pants making it look like I had a bladder control issue. Some of it would dry and blend in, other stuff (gloss poly) kept the wet look forever and I had to start avoiding wearing those pants in public or at work. The ghastly stares from the ladies, smirks from the young-uns, and knowing nods from the other woodworkers was just too much attention.

The square jars are the key, but I've switched to the square plastic peanut tubs. Occasionally the bottom will melt out from whatever horrendous solvent I poured in, but that is the price to pay for having the container bounce off the floor versus a jar breaking into parts when I shift the bench piles over a smidge to make room for my beer.


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

LittleBlackDuck said:


> *Glass Jars for those recalcitrant chems.*
> 
> *Boys* and *Girls*,
> 
> ...





> .....
> The square jars are the key, but I ve switched to the square plastic peanut tubs…..
> - splintergroup


Tallking about *Peanut butter*, I often hear Yankees brag about *"Peanut butter and jello"* sandwiches… sounds strange, as in Aussieland *"jello"* is jelly as opposed to jam… nevertheless I've taken it on board and actually use *mint jelly*... my favourite combinations is *cashew spread* with *mint jelly*,









While I've been known for my spicy addiction,








I can be a big little sweetie!

I also make a pretty mean spicy jerky, 









*BTW.* A *Vegemite* squeeze bottle 








makes a good dispenser… you don't even need to empty it.

*pottzy*, the 24 hour curfew has expired.


----------

