# Router table safety



## Kkeuma (Jan 27, 2021)

Goodmorning everyone,

I need some help with safer use of my router table. I am making this coat rack.










I thought to make a template of the curved "hook" out of a piece of scrap so I could trace it out faster than a using a piece of paper. I dont have a band saw or a spindle sander, so I thought to use my router table. I used a straight edge router bit and free hand guided the template. Well, it grabbed the piece of wood and pulled it into the sawdust extraction tube….along with my finger. Overall the finger is fine, just a bit shredded. Looking back I can see how dumb that was. How can make this template safely, along with all the rest of the actual hooks?

Thank you.

-Kila


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## ChefHDAN (Aug 7, 2010)

Use hand tools to refine your template and then use 2x tape to attach the template to the stock, pattern bit top or bottom bearing, will do the job. YOu can get your first template cuts done with a hand saw and use a file to finish with sandpaper being the last step.


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## RClark (Jun 1, 2012)

Couple of thoughts, and somebody with a great deal more experience than me will probably come along and add more.

Looks like the router bit grabbed the grain and took off with the workpiece. Blinding flash of the obvious, I suppose.

First, for what you're trying to do, I don't think I'd make the template using the router. You don't have a bandsaw, so if you have a jigsaw, cut what you can with that, and then clean up the edges with hand tools and get the template fixed the way I want it. A square and flat piece of MDF can be a great assistant as a carrier platform for the workpiece. You could even screw the workpiece to the carrier MDF panel and then cut your flat sides using a rip action on your table saw, if you have one. If not, then hand tools will still get you there, although needing a bit more time.

From the pic, it looks like the opening on either side of the router bit is way too wide. Get those two sides close to the router bit, leaving a small gap on both sides. That will help your fence support the workpiece as it comes into contact with the cutting edge. But again, for what you're trying to do, it looks like the router would not be my first choice for making that template.

After you have your template all set, then you can use the router and a pattern cutting bit to make multiple accurate copies of the shape.

Edit to add: Your workpieces will have a number of situations where your router bits are cutting against the grain. For the number of pieces you appear to be working, you may want to fashion a carrier board with clamp hold downs for your stock. Firm control of the workpiece is going to be critical to safety and success. Sharp router bits are essential, too.

Hope this helps, and hope your finger heals quickly.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

+1 on hand tools.

You could also use a jigsaw and a belt or random orbit sander to make your template.

From a router safety stand point, it is imperative that you employ a standard cutting direction instead of climb cutting which can allow the bit to climb on top of the wood, grabbing and very, very quickly accelerating it, potentially destroying the work, the bit and your hand if it's pulled into the bit. Light cuts also help reduce bit wear and potential accidents from having to force the wood into the bit.


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## dbw (Dec 2, 2013)

I really hate to hear when someone gets hurt. I hope your finger will heal.

+1 on what others have said. Making a pattern with a router is a bad plan. Make the pattern with hand tools since you don't have a BS or a SS.

I have had success using a pattern on a router table and a pattern bit (no fence). I typically use double sided tape to stick the pattern to the work piece. If you do use tape make sure the surfaces are 100% free of saw dust so the tape will fully adhere. If it were me I'd make the pattern longer than needed and I would screw the pattern to the work piece on both ends. Later you can cut off the "sacrificial" ends.

RClark is correct. There is WAY too much space between the bit and the fence. Bring the fence halfs in such that the bit just clears them.


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## JackDuren (Oct 10, 2015)

Some of this stuff is done on a CNC.


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

All good advice above. I will add, the Oak that you're using there has more of a tendency to violent "grabs" when you're going against the grain than most woods do in my experience. If you're going to be making the final parts from oak, make sure that you follow Yeti's advice on direction and I would also make sure you aren't routing into the grain. That may require using a pattern bit on some sections then flipping the part over and using a flush trim bit on other sections. Spiral bits will give much better results than straight ones too.

All that being said, that is my advice specific to Oak. If your project parts will be some other wood, you're probably fine with a straight bit and don't need to give as much consideration to the grain direction.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

> Some of this stuff is done on a CNC.
> 
> - JackDuren


Some people are chauffeured vs. driving themselves, it just costs a whole lot more.


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## tvrgeek (Nov 19, 2013)

Pattern by hand. Free handing on a table is too easy to let it take too big a bite. A jig saw and a block sander can whip out a template in no time.

After I got a "real" band saw, won't do without it. Every project is an excuse to buy a new tool. 

Very nice project by the way.


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

Good advice above on making the template. I typically use 1/4" MDF for them.

Your problem is that, even with a template, you're going to have big problems with grabbing when you go to do the actual pieces. With that shape, there's no good way to avoid going against the grain on some of the cuts you'll be making, which will lead to more grabbing and tear out.

What you need is a combination flush-trim bit. It will allow you to always be able to cut down the grain just by flipping the work piece over and adjusting bit height so the bearing is riding on the template.

I'm sure there are articles or videos online that can explain it in more detail.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

You were routing against the grain at an acute angle and the bit caught.

Make the initial bandsaw cut as close to the line as possible.

Shallower passes and/or climb cutting would be the key here, as well use a spiral bit.


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## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

Best way I have found for pieces like you are attempting is as follows.

Make a pattern out of masonite, easy to shape to final form and attach with double sided tape. You want to have the smooth side against your part. Some masonite has a surface that deteriorates after multiple uses (the tape begins pulling the surface off). You can easily make multiple templates from a "master" template.

Attach to your work piece with double sided tape. Judging from your picture, I'd place a square of tape at each end and another three pieces spaced along the length. Using too much tape makes removing the template difficult. My goto tape is this stuff.

Use a router table.

For parts that get your fingers too close to the bit, you should use a board with toggle clamps to hold the part.

Tape the template to the part and cut the excess off at the bandsaw. I like to cut as close as practical leaving no more than 1/16".

Use a double bearing template bit.









Make careful note of the grain direction and only cut "down hill" such that the bit is slicing through the grain and never cutting into the ends of it. Cutting into the end grain is what probably happened to your part. Go so far as to mark these two cut types sections onto the template as a visual guide.

With the template on top, set the bit height so the bearing on the tip of the bit rides along it's edge and cut the down hill grain sections, skipping over the uphill stuff.

Next flip the part so the template is against the table and set the bit height so the bearing on the bits shank is following the template. Complete the unrouted sections which are now being cut downhill.


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## Kkeuma (Jan 27, 2021)

Thank you everyone for the advice. Reading it, I feel foolish. So many simple and obvious mistakes. I appreciate it.

-K


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