# The making and using of push sticks.



## dmorrison (Jun 20, 2009)

This post made me wonder if other woodworkers have this philosophy about push sticks.

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/16921#reply-173404

Over the years of using a table saw I have learned not to use plastic push sticks (PPS). The very few times that the PPS has made contact with the blade, the 1.5HP of the motor has been transferred to the PPS and forced it out of my hand which usually hurts. Of course the PPS has done it's job and kept my fingers and hands away form the blade. But it really stings.
So I have taken on the philosophy that I only use wooden push sticks. On small pieces I may have to sacrifice the push stick to make the cut. Holding the wood against the fence and running it though the blade will result in the push stick being cut along with the piece. But as the intended wood is cut the wooden push stick is cut at the same rate as the intended piece. This results is no kickback.
I usually make the push stick out of rectangular wood and round over the edges to prevent the corners from being forced into the hand IF a kickback happens.

So what do you guys do in your shops. And have you run across this same problem with the plastic push sticks.

Now push paddles for the jointer I don't have a problem with them. The paddle should never touch the blade on a jointer. If they do, then your doing something, or an operation wrong. And I like the large bottom surface protecting my hand and knuckles from the blade area.

Dave


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## jn3Woodworks (Apr 9, 2009)

I make all my push sticks out of wood. Usually plywood. And I have several different kinds hanging above my table saw, including one which saddles the fence, hugging both sides , with the handle up top over the fence. I've only used a plastic push stick a few times (the one that shipped with my table saw), and I just didn't like the way it felt in my hand. I've never touched the blade with it, but I can imagine that would be unpleasant.


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## JJohnston (May 22, 2009)

I do the same. I try to save 2×6 scraps for mine. I cut them to about 10" long, then cut parallel to one edge with a bandsaw to get a heel about 1/4" high. On a narrow rip I send it right over the TS blade without worrying that it's getting cut; when about half the heel is gone, I rip away the mess and cut another one. I usually toss it after the second time, so it doesn't get too short.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

I don't use me saw as much as most of you guys, but I just make them up of scrap as needed.


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## richgreer (Dec 25, 2009)

I'm use nothing but homemade wooden push sticks and I am always willing to sacrifice them to get the right cut and save my fingers .

As an FYI - I always use a push stick for the last inch when resawing on the bandsaw and the push stick always goes into the blade.

I can't think of many things sillier than buying a plastic push stick.


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## Knothead62 (Apr 17, 2010)

My wife, Lefty, does all the pushing for me. jk 
I have a PPS but this is a good case to spend some time in the shop and make some wood push sticks. Thanks for the safety tip, guys!


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

I agree with the scrap concept.

I make them in a fair number of shapes and sizes.

I got two or three of the orange plastic ones, with my TS. I'm really not comfortable using them. I can't even say, for sure, why. I just … handled them once, and put them away.

It IS a truly simple thing to make a bunch of good ones. Half an hour, with a cup of joe, and you're good for a long while !


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

I prefer to make my own using plywood, or scraps of lumber. I think they are safer, and you can design them for specific types of cuts.

There are a couple of designs I like in particular … one is just a chuck of 2×4 about 10" long with a shallow (1/4") heel sawed into both of the long sides. When both sides get too chewed up to use, I toss it and knock another one on the bandsaw. The other favorite is similar to the one you see Norm or Marc Spagnuolo use … it is made out of 1/2" plywood. I usually do a little sanding and hit them with a coat of polycrylic to keep any slivers under control.

My tablesaw came with a plastic push stick … it is still just like new (because it has never been used).


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## bob101 (Dec 14, 2008)

I make many different styles and all from wood.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

I agree about the hard plastic push sticks - had one that came with the saw, and not only is it pulled away from your hand- it also shatters - safER than your fingers in the blade, but not sure by how much. wood push sticks that gets cut are much safer, and you always have scraps that can be used for that. I currently use a soft plastic/composite push stick though, and it does a very good job:


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## Ger21 (Oct 29, 2009)

Here's how I make mine.


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## SnowyRiver (Nov 14, 2008)

I generally use the one that Purplev has displayed. Although the front half inch or so is missing due to a kick back that drew it into the blade.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

I have a mess of push sticks. I mostly use the same one that Purplev shows above, except mine has a Vermont American sticker on it… I also have 3 or 4 that came from various friends giving me push sticks that they didn't like. Nasty hard plastic orange ones from Harbor Freight I figure is where they came from… But I digress… I also have a couple shop made ones made from 1/4" ply that very rarely get used, and only for ripping thin stock. And they are generally sacrificial in nature… I will use a push stick anytime I have hands getting anywhere within 6" of the blade… I'm a little paranoid. I just hope I am paranoid enough…

As far as push blocks are concerned, I have the ones that came with my jointer, and that's it… I need to make some more…


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## Gregn (Mar 26, 2010)

I never bought a push stick, I have push pads that came with the jointer. I always make my own like so many others from my scrap pile. I like to use scrap 2×6 to make a long flat face with the top formed to fit my hand and have some design. I then attach a piece of scrap to the back to hook the material. When it wears out I just replace the scrap with a new piece.


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## Abbott (May 10, 2009)

I have always cut my push sticks out of scrap until I came across this one at Harbor Freight for $2.99, it's been working fine. I cut about an 1/8" off of one side on a narrow cut the other day but it's still going strong. I'm enjoying my first store bought push stick so far, I'll let you know if it goes bananas on me.










I saw one like * Purplev* and *Snowy River * like to use but it was yellow plastic and off-set. I plan to pick one up one of these days as I like the off-set from the blade.


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## Greedo (Apr 18, 2010)

@Ger21, cool video but i would strongly recommend not using pine for a PS! thats how i made my first ones, but pine splits easilly when you put some force on it. and when it splits or breaks, then your hand goes flying right toward the spinning blade, plywood is the way to go and keep it thick enough so you cant break it.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

Good point Greedo.


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## GregD (Oct 24, 2009)

Since I bought a pair of Micro Jig's GRR-Rippers, I use them in place of push sticks in most situations. With push sticks I don't have as much control as I'd like in keeping the work tight against the outfeed end of the fence. The down side of the GRR-Rippers, besides the cost, is that the blade guard must come off if ripping less than 3" or so.


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## Nomad62 (Apr 20, 2010)

Thanx for the info. I use plastic ones almost identical to Abbots, they came with my Shopsmith. I've never had a problem, but who wants one? Think I'll make a couple of wooden ones just for close-to-blade useage.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

I've had one like Abbotts posted - it came with my Bosch 4100 TS and so I used it (first TS for me)- I had a blade to push stick incident and it threw the PS around, and shattered it - gave me the creepd! I put that PS away, and never used it since.


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## LakelandDave (Dec 25, 2009)

Most of the time I make my own push sticks, but there are a couple of exceptions. I also have one of the Micro Jig GRR-Rippers that I use - and like for certain cuts. I'll confess that shortly after getting it, I reversed it accidentally and cut a new slot through it. In this case, the plastic didn't shatter, but rather cut - almost like wood. The other exception is a commercial plastic one with drop-down heel and side retainers. I only use it on the jointer, and until recently had no problems with it. I always worried about the metal bolts and knobs, though, and for that reason, I always made it a practice to tighten them before use. Recently my fears were justified when one of the Knobs vibrated loose, and the plastic heel dropped down into the jointer blade. The heel shattered - parts went flying (fortunately not into me), and I was left with a damaged set of jointer blades - and a new-found appreciation for wooden push devices.


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## ConcordCarpenter (May 8, 2010)

I make all my push sticks out of wood. Usually plywood. someone bought me a plastic push stick similar to the Snowy river pictured aboce. I don't like it that much.


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## Bradford (Dec 8, 2007)

Wood push stick would have less kick back, provided that they don't allow the blade to grab it. With the proper blade guard and splitter in place, a gripper (although an excellent tool) can't be used if the fence is too close. A fence straddling push block/guard is another way to keep things going the right way. I won't ever use plastic, due to the kick back risk. If it ever happens to you, then you'll throw yours away too.


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## cutmantom (Feb 2, 2010)

I use mainly 3/4 plywood 6" x 12" approximately with a notch cut about 1/16 less than the material to be cut, I always assume it will get cut up in use, it is scrap after all, when cutting really thin pieces I make sure I use a new one, it gives zero clearance behind the work


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## gerrym526 (Dec 22, 2007)

I use Kelly Mehler's design for push sticks-looks like the shape of a VW beetle. Long nose bearing surface holds down the front of the wood well in front of your hand. Beetle roof section holds the hand well above the TS surface and above the rip fence.
Have them in about 5 sizes from 1/4 inch to 3/4 inch in plywood and hardwood.
Feel very comfortable and very safe using them.
Gerry


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## dustbunny (May 18, 2009)

I HAD an orange plastic push stick.
It touched the blade, and shattered into about 8
pieces, one piece grazed my left ear. 
The kickback left my forearm tingling.
Never bought another one, and have three made from
various thicknesses of pine now. Wood is very forgiving to the blade !!

Lisa


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## LateNightOwl (Aug 13, 2009)

Okay, I'm convinced! My orange plastic push stick is going in the trash right after I pry the magnet out of its handle. Thanks for the safety lesson!!


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

Nothing wrong with making your own, but this one has worked great for me for years. I've never touched the blade with it, so I can't say how it reacts to that. I also use my Grr-ripper for small pieces, and I swear by it!


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