# Table Saw Mobile Workstation



## gwurst

*I love it when a plan comes together...*

Awhile back Wood Magazine had an article on building a mobile outfeed table that would fit over your table saw. Since I need all the space in my garage I can get, I went ahead and built one that would fit over my table saw to give me some much needed work space and a handy outfeed table.



















I thought this was pretty spiffy and a great use of space. As I always do I look at the latest project posts on Lumberjocks looking for inspiration for my next project. Whilst browsing I came across an entry by yzf600:

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/6885

I thought it was a keen idea, but unfortunately I already had the outfeed table covering my saw and just bookmarked it for future use. Then a couple days later it hit me: "Why not build a mobile cabinet that would fit the footprint of my outfeed table and allow me to store it underneath as well?"

After taking some measurements and a couple days playing with Sketchup I have the following design:










The cabinet fits my table saw and has an extension wing on the left side for larger sheet goods. It also has a built-in router insert and a downdraft table for sanding.










The back has the 4" dust port for the table saw that will mount to a box under the middle of the saw. It also has 2 1/2" dust ports for the router and sanding box. I haven't decided if I will tie them all together or just connect the vacuum to the needed port.










The left side of the cabinet is filled with drawers. The two drawers directly under the saw on each side have two shelves and the center drawer is short to allow for the dust collection box.










The right side of the cabinet is just open compartments covered by doors. The router goes in the upper left and I will build a box for the sanding table in the upper right. I will likely build some additional structures in the router cabinet to help funnel dust.

The cabinet will be largely plywood, and drawers will probably be made with 1/2" MDF. The top will be 3/4" MDF with a laminated top. The top itself will have holes drilled in it for the downdraft dust collection.

Now, I need to draw-up material requirements and cutting diagrams. Of course, I'll probably change a thing here and there as well. If anyone has any dust collection recommendations I'm open to more suggestions.

Thanks,

Greg


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## GaryK

gwurst said:


> *I love it when a plan comes together...*
> 
> Awhile back Wood Magazine had an article on building a mobile outfeed table that would fit over your table saw. Since I need all the space in my garage I can get, I went ahead and built one that would fit over my table saw to give me some much needed work space and a handy outfeed table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought this was pretty spiffy and a great use of space. As I always do I look at the latest project posts on Lumberjocks looking for inspiration for my next project. Whilst browsing I came across an entry by yzf600:
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/6885
> 
> I thought it was a keen idea, but unfortunately I already had the outfeed table covering my saw and just bookmarked it for future use. Then a couple days later it hit me: "Why not build a mobile cabinet that would fit the footprint of my outfeed table and allow me to store it underneath as well?"
> 
> After taking some measurements and a couple days playing with Sketchup I have the following design:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cabinet fits my table saw and has an extension wing on the left side for larger sheet goods. It also has a built-in router insert and a downdraft table for sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back has the 4" dust port for the table saw that will mount to a box under the middle of the saw. It also has 2 1/2" dust ports for the router and sanding box. I haven't decided if I will tie them all together or just connect the vacuum to the needed port.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left side of the cabinet is filled with drawers. The two drawers directly under the saw on each side have two shelves and the center drawer is short to allow for the dust collection box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right side of the cabinet is just open compartments covered by doors. The router goes in the upper left and I will build a box for the sanding table in the upper right. I will likely build some additional structures in the router cabinet to help funnel dust.
> 
> The cabinet will be largely plywood, and drawers will probably be made with 1/2" MDF. The top will be 3/4" MDF with a laminated top. The top itself will have holes drilled in it for the downdraft dust collection.
> 
> Now, I need to draw-up material requirements and cutting diagrams. Of course, I'll probably change a thing here and there as well. If anyone has any dust collection recommendations I'm open to more suggestions.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Greg


Looks like a great idea. Keep us posted on your progress.


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## sbryan55

gwurst said:


> *I love it when a plan comes together...*
> 
> Awhile back Wood Magazine had an article on building a mobile outfeed table that would fit over your table saw. Since I need all the space in my garage I can get, I went ahead and built one that would fit over my table saw to give me some much needed work space and a handy outfeed table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought this was pretty spiffy and a great use of space. As I always do I look at the latest project posts on Lumberjocks looking for inspiration for my next project. Whilst browsing I came across an entry by yzf600:
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/6885
> 
> I thought it was a keen idea, but unfortunately I already had the outfeed table covering my saw and just bookmarked it for future use. Then a couple days later it hit me: "Why not build a mobile cabinet that would fit the footprint of my outfeed table and allow me to store it underneath as well?"
> 
> After taking some measurements and a couple days playing with Sketchup I have the following design:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cabinet fits my table saw and has an extension wing on the left side for larger sheet goods. It also has a built-in router insert and a downdraft table for sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back has the 4" dust port for the table saw that will mount to a box under the middle of the saw. It also has 2 1/2" dust ports for the router and sanding box. I haven't decided if I will tie them all together or just connect the vacuum to the needed port.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left side of the cabinet is filled with drawers. The two drawers directly under the saw on each side have two shelves and the center drawer is short to allow for the dust collection box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right side of the cabinet is just open compartments covered by doors. The router goes in the upper left and I will build a box for the sanding table in the upper right. I will likely build some additional structures in the router cabinet to help funnel dust.
> 
> The cabinet will be largely plywood, and drawers will probably be made with 1/2" MDF. The top will be 3/4" MDF with a laminated top. The top itself will have holes drilled in it for the downdraft dust collection.
> 
> Now, I need to draw-up material requirements and cutting diagrams. Of course, I'll probably change a thing here and there as well. If anyone has any dust collection recommendations I'm open to more suggestions.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Greg


Greg,

This is an interesting project. The design looks good and combining a table saw, downdraft table, a router and plenty of storage is wonderful idea.

I will be interested in following this one.


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## Grumpy

gwurst said:


> *I love it when a plan comes together...*
> 
> Awhile back Wood Magazine had an article on building a mobile outfeed table that would fit over your table saw. Since I need all the space in my garage I can get, I went ahead and built one that would fit over my table saw to give me some much needed work space and a handy outfeed table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought this was pretty spiffy and a great use of space. As I always do I look at the latest project posts on Lumberjocks looking for inspiration for my next project. Whilst browsing I came across an entry by yzf600:
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/6885
> 
> I thought it was a keen idea, but unfortunately I already had the outfeed table covering my saw and just bookmarked it for future use. Then a couple days later it hit me: "Why not build a mobile cabinet that would fit the footprint of my outfeed table and allow me to store it underneath as well?"
> 
> After taking some measurements and a couple days playing with Sketchup I have the following design:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cabinet fits my table saw and has an extension wing on the left side for larger sheet goods. It also has a built-in router insert and a downdraft table for sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back has the 4" dust port for the table saw that will mount to a box under the middle of the saw. It also has 2 1/2" dust ports for the router and sanding box. I haven't decided if I will tie them all together or just connect the vacuum to the needed port.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left side of the cabinet is filled with drawers. The two drawers directly under the saw on each side have two shelves and the center drawer is short to allow for the dust collection box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right side of the cabinet is just open compartments covered by doors. The router goes in the upper left and I will build a box for the sanding table in the upper right. I will likely build some additional structures in the router cabinet to help funnel dust.
> 
> The cabinet will be largely plywood, and drawers will probably be made with 1/2" MDF. The top will be 3/4" MDF with a laminated top. The top itself will have holes drilled in it for the downdraft dust collection.
> 
> Now, I need to draw-up material requirements and cutting diagrams. Of course, I'll probably change a thing here and there as well. If anyone has any dust collection recommendations I'm open to more suggestions.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Greg


Very impressive.


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## AdMarkGuy

gwurst said:


> *I love it when a plan comes together...*
> 
> Awhile back Wood Magazine had an article on building a mobile outfeed table that would fit over your table saw. Since I need all the space in my garage I can get, I went ahead and built one that would fit over my table saw to give me some much needed work space and a handy outfeed table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought this was pretty spiffy and a great use of space. As I always do I look at the latest project posts on Lumberjocks looking for inspiration for my next project. Whilst browsing I came across an entry by yzf600:
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/6885
> 
> I thought it was a keen idea, but unfortunately I already had the outfeed table covering my saw and just bookmarked it for future use. Then a couple days later it hit me: "Why not build a mobile cabinet that would fit the footprint of my outfeed table and allow me to store it underneath as well?"
> 
> After taking some measurements and a couple days playing with Sketchup I have the following design:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cabinet fits my table saw and has an extension wing on the left side for larger sheet goods. It also has a built-in router insert and a downdraft table for sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back has the 4" dust port for the table saw that will mount to a box under the middle of the saw. It also has 2 1/2" dust ports for the router and sanding box. I haven't decided if I will tie them all together or just connect the vacuum to the needed port.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left side of the cabinet is filled with drawers. The two drawers directly under the saw on each side have two shelves and the center drawer is short to allow for the dust collection box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right side of the cabinet is just open compartments covered by doors. The router goes in the upper left and I will build a box for the sanding table in the upper right. I will likely build some additional structures in the router cabinet to help funnel dust.
> 
> The cabinet will be largely plywood, and drawers will probably be made with 1/2" MDF. The top will be 3/4" MDF with a laminated top. The top itself will have holes drilled in it for the downdraft dust collection.
> 
> Now, I need to draw-up material requirements and cutting diagrams. Of course, I'll probably change a thing here and there as well. If anyone has any dust collection recommendations I'm open to more suggestions.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Greg


Very well thought out plan - Good Luck

I am curious to the height of the table to the table top- since a saw is lower than normal workbench.


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## Topapilot

gwurst said:


> *I love it when a plan comes together...*
> 
> Awhile back Wood Magazine had an article on building a mobile outfeed table that would fit over your table saw. Since I need all the space in my garage I can get, I went ahead and built one that would fit over my table saw to give me some much needed work space and a handy outfeed table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought this was pretty spiffy and a great use of space. As I always do I look at the latest project posts on Lumberjocks looking for inspiration for my next project. Whilst browsing I came across an entry by yzf600:
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/6885
> 
> I thought it was a keen idea, but unfortunately I already had the outfeed table covering my saw and just bookmarked it for future use. Then a couple days later it hit me: "Why not build a mobile cabinet that would fit the footprint of my outfeed table and allow me to store it underneath as well?"
> 
> After taking some measurements and a couple days playing with Sketchup I have the following design:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cabinet fits my table saw and has an extension wing on the left side for larger sheet goods. It also has a built-in router insert and a downdraft table for sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back has the 4" dust port for the table saw that will mount to a box under the middle of the saw. It also has 2 1/2" dust ports for the router and sanding box. I haven't decided if I will tie them all together or just connect the vacuum to the needed port.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left side of the cabinet is filled with drawers. The two drawers directly under the saw on each side have two shelves and the center drawer is short to allow for the dust collection box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right side of the cabinet is just open compartments covered by doors. The router goes in the upper left and I will build a box for the sanding table in the upper right. I will likely build some additional structures in the router cabinet to help funnel dust.
> 
> The cabinet will be largely plywood, and drawers will probably be made with 1/2" MDF. The top will be 3/4" MDF with a laminated top. The top itself will have holes drilled in it for the downdraft dust collection.
> 
> Now, I need to draw-up material requirements and cutting diagrams. Of course, I'll probably change a thing here and there as well. If anyone has any dust collection recommendations I'm open to more suggestions.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Greg


Greg,
Excellent planning, sketchup looks like the next tool I need to learn. I made a cabinet also, but not as well planned out as yours. More storage is always better, and small shelves/draws are better than large as big deep draws just get filled with clutter. I would suggest you give some thought to the casters on the bottom. On my cabinet I made the carcas from 3/4 birch ply and it wasn't stiff enough on four casters and bowed down in the middle. If you look at the pic on my workshop page you can see I added a caster in the middle; that just caused the middle to bow up and interfere with the bottom draw. In hindsight I should have used a torsion box in the middle of the bottom to stiffen it up.

Of course, everything worked perfectly when it was just a cabinet, even when it was a cabinet on wheels; it was only after I put the saw on top that the weight was too much.
Just a thought,
Robb


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## FatherHooligan

gwurst said:


> *I love it when a plan comes together...*
> 
> Awhile back Wood Magazine had an article on building a mobile outfeed table that would fit over your table saw. Since I need all the space in my garage I can get, I went ahead and built one that would fit over my table saw to give me some much needed work space and a handy outfeed table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought this was pretty spiffy and a great use of space. As I always do I look at the latest project posts on Lumberjocks looking for inspiration for my next project. Whilst browsing I came across an entry by yzf600:
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/6885
> 
> I thought it was a keen idea, but unfortunately I already had the outfeed table covering my saw and just bookmarked it for future use. Then a couple days later it hit me: "Why not build a mobile cabinet that would fit the footprint of my outfeed table and allow me to store it underneath as well?"
> 
> After taking some measurements and a couple days playing with Sketchup I have the following design:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cabinet fits my table saw and has an extension wing on the left side for larger sheet goods. It also has a built-in router insert and a downdraft table for sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back has the 4" dust port for the table saw that will mount to a box under the middle of the saw. It also has 2 1/2" dust ports for the router and sanding box. I haven't decided if I will tie them all together or just connect the vacuum to the needed port.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left side of the cabinet is filled with drawers. The two drawers directly under the saw on each side have two shelves and the center drawer is short to allow for the dust collection box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right side of the cabinet is just open compartments covered by doors. The router goes in the upper left and I will build a box for the sanding table in the upper right. I will likely build some additional structures in the router cabinet to help funnel dust.
> 
> The cabinet will be largely plywood, and drawers will probably be made with 1/2" MDF. The top will be 3/4" MDF with a laminated top. The top itself will have holes drilled in it for the downdraft dust collection.
> 
> Now, I need to draw-up material requirements and cutting diagrams. Of course, I'll probably change a thing here and there as well. If anyone has any dust collection recommendations I'm open to more suggestions.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Greg


This is the downside of LJs…now I want to make a table like yours. I just have to figure out how long before they don't notice me at the Centre and how much sawdust I can hide before Jenn notices I never leave the garage 

A really great sketch, have you allowed room for the saw's motor in the cabinets? I noticed in the photo the motor protrudes a fair amount from the base of the saw and didn't notice a corresponding spot in the SU model. Mind you it is very late here so maybe its me


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## gwurst

gwurst said:


> *I love it when a plan comes together...*
> 
> Awhile back Wood Magazine had an article on building a mobile outfeed table that would fit over your table saw. Since I need all the space in my garage I can get, I went ahead and built one that would fit over my table saw to give me some much needed work space and a handy outfeed table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought this was pretty spiffy and a great use of space. As I always do I look at the latest project posts on Lumberjocks looking for inspiration for my next project. Whilst browsing I came across an entry by yzf600:
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/6885
> 
> I thought it was a keen idea, but unfortunately I already had the outfeed table covering my saw and just bookmarked it for future use. Then a couple days later it hit me: "Why not build a mobile cabinet that would fit the footprint of my outfeed table and allow me to store it underneath as well?"
> 
> After taking some measurements and a couple days playing with Sketchup I have the following design:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cabinet fits my table saw and has an extension wing on the left side for larger sheet goods. It also has a built-in router insert and a downdraft table for sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back has the 4" dust port for the table saw that will mount to a box under the middle of the saw. It also has 2 1/2" dust ports for the router and sanding box. I haven't decided if I will tie them all together or just connect the vacuum to the needed port.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left side of the cabinet is filled with drawers. The two drawers directly under the saw on each side have two shelves and the center drawer is short to allow for the dust collection box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right side of the cabinet is just open compartments covered by doors. The router goes in the upper left and I will build a box for the sanding table in the upper right. I will likely build some additional structures in the router cabinet to help funnel dust.
> 
> The cabinet will be largely plywood, and drawers will probably be made with 1/2" MDF. The top will be 3/4" MDF with a laminated top. The top itself will have holes drilled in it for the downdraft dust collection.
> 
> Now, I need to draw-up material requirements and cutting diagrams. Of course, I'll probably change a thing here and there as well. If anyone has any dust collection recommendations I'm open to more suggestions.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Greg


I do have some concern about the cabinet bowing in the middle or at the cabinet joins. The workstation is essentially 3 cabinets bolted together, and since the middle cabinet carries the brunt of the weight and is not supported by any casters I am concerned about the structure. My initial though is to use some 2x lumber for bottom bracing. I'll have to adjust the cabinet height accordingly and/or go with smaller casters. I'll probably redesign it again with better support and post another blog.

As for the saw, I didn't want to reinvent the wheel so I took a table saw from the Google 3D warehouse and modified it slightly for the plan:

http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/

My saw is an old Craftsman and the back of the saw is almost flush with the back of the top, so the motor should hang over and out the back.


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## gwurst

gwurst said:


> *I love it when a plan comes together...*
> 
> Awhile back Wood Magazine had an article on building a mobile outfeed table that would fit over your table saw. Since I need all the space in my garage I can get, I went ahead and built one that would fit over my table saw to give me some much needed work space and a handy outfeed table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought this was pretty spiffy and a great use of space. As I always do I look at the latest project posts on Lumberjocks looking for inspiration for my next project. Whilst browsing I came across an entry by yzf600:
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/6885
> 
> I thought it was a keen idea, but unfortunately I already had the outfeed table covering my saw and just bookmarked it for future use. Then a couple days later it hit me: "Why not build a mobile cabinet that would fit the footprint of my outfeed table and allow me to store it underneath as well?"
> 
> After taking some measurements and a couple days playing with Sketchup I have the following design:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cabinet fits my table saw and has an extension wing on the left side for larger sheet goods. It also has a built-in router insert and a downdraft table for sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back has the 4" dust port for the table saw that will mount to a box under the middle of the saw. It also has 2 1/2" dust ports for the router and sanding box. I haven't decided if I will tie them all together or just connect the vacuum to the needed port.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left side of the cabinet is filled with drawers. The two drawers directly under the saw on each side have two shelves and the center drawer is short to allow for the dust collection box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right side of the cabinet is just open compartments covered by doors. The router goes in the upper left and I will build a box for the sanding table in the upper right. I will likely build some additional structures in the router cabinet to help funnel dust.
> 
> The cabinet will be largely plywood, and drawers will probably be made with 1/2" MDF. The top will be 3/4" MDF with a laminated top. The top itself will have holes drilled in it for the downdraft dust collection.
> 
> Now, I need to draw-up material requirements and cutting diagrams. Of course, I'll probably change a thing here and there as well. If anyone has any dust collection recommendations I'm open to more suggestions.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Greg


This is too small of an update for a new blog, so I'll just post it here. Topapilot raised a good point that had bugged me about the strength of the cabinet, so I braced the bottom and went with smaller casters:










By going with a 3" caster instead of a 4" I was able to shave 1 1/2" off the height enabling me to brace the bottom with 2×4 material. I like to rip structural 2×4's down to 1 1/2" x 3" to square-off the normally rounded edges. I added bracing under each cabinet join as well as additional casters in the middle of the cabinet. I'm now fairly confident in the load carrying capacity of the cabinet and it's ability to distribute weight across the bottom fairly evenly.

On a side not, this entire cabinet will likely be built without much if any glue (except the laminated top, of course). I like to use pocket screws and have been impressed with their load carrying capacity without glue. In addition, I tend to change and add things in the future so being able to unscrew parts of the cabinet makes for easier modification.


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## gwurst

gwurst said:


> *I love it when a plan comes together...*
> 
> Awhile back Wood Magazine had an article on building a mobile outfeed table that would fit over your table saw. Since I need all the space in my garage I can get, I went ahead and built one that would fit over my table saw to give me some much needed work space and a handy outfeed table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought this was pretty spiffy and a great use of space. As I always do I look at the latest project posts on Lumberjocks looking for inspiration for my next project. Whilst browsing I came across an entry by yzf600:
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/6885
> 
> I thought it was a keen idea, but unfortunately I already had the outfeed table covering my saw and just bookmarked it for future use. Then a couple days later it hit me: "Why not build a mobile cabinet that would fit the footprint of my outfeed table and allow me to store it underneath as well?"
> 
> After taking some measurements and a couple days playing with Sketchup I have the following design:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cabinet fits my table saw and has an extension wing on the left side for larger sheet goods. It also has a built-in router insert and a downdraft table for sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back has the 4" dust port for the table saw that will mount to a box under the middle of the saw. It also has 2 1/2" dust ports for the router and sanding box. I haven't decided if I will tie them all together or just connect the vacuum to the needed port.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left side of the cabinet is filled with drawers. The two drawers directly under the saw on each side have two shelves and the center drawer is short to allow for the dust collection box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right side of the cabinet is just open compartments covered by doors. The router goes in the upper left and I will build a box for the sanding table in the upper right. I will likely build some additional structures in the router cabinet to help funnel dust.
> 
> The cabinet will be largely plywood, and drawers will probably be made with 1/2" MDF. The top will be 3/4" MDF with a laminated top. The top itself will have holes drilled in it for the downdraft dust collection.
> 
> Now, I need to draw-up material requirements and cutting diagrams. Of course, I'll probably change a thing here and there as well. If anyone has any dust collection recommendations I'm open to more suggestions.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Greg


Ad far as dimensions, the cabinet was sized to fit under my outfeed table with the wheels down and to match the current height of my table saw and base. Obviously if you weren't so constrained you could make it bigger, but in case you were wondering here are the dimensions:



















In addition, once I get this thing finished and make sure the design matches the finished product, I'd be glad to make the Sketchup file as well as my cutting diagrams an piece dimension available in case you wanted to build one similar. Of course, that assumes it turns-out as well as the plan!


----------



## AdMarkGuy

gwurst said:


> *I love it when a plan comes together...*
> 
> Awhile back Wood Magazine had an article on building a mobile outfeed table that would fit over your table saw. Since I need all the space in my garage I can get, I went ahead and built one that would fit over my table saw to give me some much needed work space and a handy outfeed table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought this was pretty spiffy and a great use of space. As I always do I look at the latest project posts on Lumberjocks looking for inspiration for my next project. Whilst browsing I came across an entry by yzf600:
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/6885
> 
> I thought it was a keen idea, but unfortunately I already had the outfeed table covering my saw and just bookmarked it for future use. Then a couple days later it hit me: "Why not build a mobile cabinet that would fit the footprint of my outfeed table and allow me to store it underneath as well?"
> 
> After taking some measurements and a couple days playing with Sketchup I have the following design:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cabinet fits my table saw and has an extension wing on the left side for larger sheet goods. It also has a built-in router insert and a downdraft table for sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back has the 4" dust port for the table saw that will mount to a box under the middle of the saw. It also has 2 1/2" dust ports for the router and sanding box. I haven't decided if I will tie them all together or just connect the vacuum to the needed port.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left side of the cabinet is filled with drawers. The two drawers directly under the saw on each side have two shelves and the center drawer is short to allow for the dust collection box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right side of the cabinet is just open compartments covered by doors. The router goes in the upper left and I will build a box for the sanding table in the upper right. I will likely build some additional structures in the router cabinet to help funnel dust.
> 
> The cabinet will be largely plywood, and drawers will probably be made with 1/2" MDF. The top will be 3/4" MDF with a laminated top. The top itself will have holes drilled in it for the downdraft dust collection.
> 
> Now, I need to draw-up material requirements and cutting diagrams. Of course, I'll probably change a thing here and there as well. If anyone has any dust collection recommendations I'm open to more suggestions.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Greg


Thanks for the great dimensional analysis and description. I was very curious as to the height. I am concerned that 36 3/4" is a little too high for a table saw and may prohibit your ability to handle and control large sheets.


----------



## pinakBERT

gwurst said:


> *I love it when a plan comes together...*
> 
> Awhile back Wood Magazine had an article on building a mobile outfeed table that would fit over your table saw. Since I need all the space in my garage I can get, I went ahead and built one that would fit over my table saw to give me some much needed work space and a handy outfeed table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought this was pretty spiffy and a great use of space. As I always do I look at the latest project posts on Lumberjocks looking for inspiration for my next project. Whilst browsing I came across an entry by yzf600:
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/6885
> 
> I thought it was a keen idea, but unfortunately I already had the outfeed table covering my saw and just bookmarked it for future use. Then a couple days later it hit me: "Why not build a mobile cabinet that would fit the footprint of my outfeed table and allow me to store it underneath as well?"
> 
> After taking some measurements and a couple days playing with Sketchup I have the following design:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cabinet fits my table saw and has an extension wing on the left side for larger sheet goods. It also has a built-in router insert and a downdraft table for sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back has the 4" dust port for the table saw that will mount to a box under the middle of the saw. It also has 2 1/2" dust ports for the router and sanding box. I haven't decided if I will tie them all together or just connect the vacuum to the needed port.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left side of the cabinet is filled with drawers. The two drawers directly under the saw on each side have two shelves and the center drawer is short to allow for the dust collection box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right side of the cabinet is just open compartments covered by doors. The router goes in the upper left and I will build a box for the sanding table in the upper right. I will likely build some additional structures in the router cabinet to help funnel dust.
> 
> The cabinet will be largely plywood, and drawers will probably be made with 1/2" MDF. The top will be 3/4" MDF with a laminated top. The top itself will have holes drilled in it for the downdraft dust collection.
> 
> Now, I need to draw-up material requirements and cutting diagrams. Of course, I'll probably change a thing here and there as well. If anyone has any dust collection recommendations I'm open to more suggestions.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Greg


I just saw a YouTube video of the out-feed table you built. Do you still have the plans for it? I am looking to build one like that. I like how the casters lift the table up with the levers at the back of it. Is it useful as an assembly table?


----------



## lazyfiremaninTN

gwurst said:


> *I love it when a plan comes together...*
> 
> Awhile back Wood Magazine had an article on building a mobile outfeed table that would fit over your table saw. Since I need all the space in my garage I can get, I went ahead and built one that would fit over my table saw to give me some much needed work space and a handy outfeed table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought this was pretty spiffy and a great use of space. As I always do I look at the latest project posts on Lumberjocks looking for inspiration for my next project. Whilst browsing I came across an entry by yzf600:
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/6885
> 
> I thought it was a keen idea, but unfortunately I already had the outfeed table covering my saw and just bookmarked it for future use. Then a couple days later it hit me: "Why not build a mobile cabinet that would fit the footprint of my outfeed table and allow me to store it underneath as well?"
> 
> After taking some measurements and a couple days playing with Sketchup I have the following design:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cabinet fits my table saw and has an extension wing on the left side for larger sheet goods. It also has a built-in router insert and a downdraft table for sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back has the 4" dust port for the table saw that will mount to a box under the middle of the saw. It also has 2 1/2" dust ports for the router and sanding box. I haven't decided if I will tie them all together or just connect the vacuum to the needed port.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left side of the cabinet is filled with drawers. The two drawers directly under the saw on each side have two shelves and the center drawer is short to allow for the dust collection box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right side of the cabinet is just open compartments covered by doors. The router goes in the upper left and I will build a box for the sanding table in the upper right. I will likely build some additional structures in the router cabinet to help funnel dust.
> 
> The cabinet will be largely plywood, and drawers will probably be made with 1/2" MDF. The top will be 3/4" MDF with a laminated top. The top itself will have holes drilled in it for the downdraft dust collection.
> 
> Now, I need to draw-up material requirements and cutting diagrams. Of course, I'll probably change a thing here and there as well. If anyone has any dust collection recommendations I'm open to more suggestions.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Greg


How is the motor for your table saw fit into this plan? I had noticed that you had a contractor saw verses a benchtop which is what appears in the plan.


----------



## gwurst

gwurst said:


> *I love it when a plan comes together...*
> 
> Awhile back Wood Magazine had an article on building a mobile outfeed table that would fit over your table saw. Since I need all the space in my garage I can get, I went ahead and built one that would fit over my table saw to give me some much needed work space and a handy outfeed table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought this was pretty spiffy and a great use of space. As I always do I look at the latest project posts on Lumberjocks looking for inspiration for my next project. Whilst browsing I came across an entry by yzf600:
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/6885
> 
> I thought it was a keen idea, but unfortunately I already had the outfeed table covering my saw and just bookmarked it for future use. Then a couple days later it hit me: "Why not build a mobile cabinet that would fit the footprint of my outfeed table and allow me to store it underneath as well?"
> 
> After taking some measurements and a couple days playing with Sketchup I have the following design:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cabinet fits my table saw and has an extension wing on the left side for larger sheet goods. It also has a built-in router insert and a downdraft table for sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back has the 4" dust port for the table saw that will mount to a box under the middle of the saw. It also has 2 1/2" dust ports for the router and sanding box. I haven't decided if I will tie them all together or just connect the vacuum to the needed port.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left side of the cabinet is filled with drawers. The two drawers directly under the saw on each side have two shelves and the center drawer is short to allow for the dust collection box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right side of the cabinet is just open compartments covered by doors. The router goes in the upper left and I will build a box for the sanding table in the upper right. I will likely build some additional structures in the router cabinet to help funnel dust.
> 
> The cabinet will be largely plywood, and drawers will probably be made with 1/2" MDF. The top will be 3/4" MDF with a laminated top. The top itself will have holes drilled in it for the downdraft dust collection.
> 
> Now, I need to draw-up material requirements and cutting diagrams. Of course, I'll probably change a thing here and there as well. If anyone has any dust collection recommendations I'm open to more suggestions.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Greg


The motor hangs-off the back of the worktable, as you can see in this picture:










Depending on your saw design you may have to make modifications.


----------



## lazyfiremaninTN

gwurst said:


> *I love it when a plan comes together...*
> 
> Awhile back Wood Magazine had an article on building a mobile outfeed table that would fit over your table saw. Since I need all the space in my garage I can get, I went ahead and built one that would fit over my table saw to give me some much needed work space and a handy outfeed table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought this was pretty spiffy and a great use of space. As I always do I look at the latest project posts on Lumberjocks looking for inspiration for my next project. Whilst browsing I came across an entry by yzf600:
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/6885
> 
> I thought it was a keen idea, but unfortunately I already had the outfeed table covering my saw and just bookmarked it for future use. Then a couple days later it hit me: "Why not build a mobile cabinet that would fit the footprint of my outfeed table and allow me to store it underneath as well?"
> 
> After taking some measurements and a couple days playing with Sketchup I have the following design:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cabinet fits my table saw and has an extension wing on the left side for larger sheet goods. It also has a built-in router insert and a downdraft table for sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back has the 4" dust port for the table saw that will mount to a box under the middle of the saw. It also has 2 1/2" dust ports for the router and sanding box. I haven't decided if I will tie them all together or just connect the vacuum to the needed port.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left side of the cabinet is filled with drawers. The two drawers directly under the saw on each side have two shelves and the center drawer is short to allow for the dust collection box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right side of the cabinet is just open compartments covered by doors. The router goes in the upper left and I will build a box for the sanding table in the upper right. I will likely build some additional structures in the router cabinet to help funnel dust.
> 
> The cabinet will be largely plywood, and drawers will probably be made with 1/2" MDF. The top will be 3/4" MDF with a laminated top. The top itself will have holes drilled in it for the downdraft dust collection.
> 
> Now, I need to draw-up material requirements and cutting diagrams. Of course, I'll probably change a thing here and there as well. If anyone has any dust collection recommendations I'm open to more suggestions.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Greg


oh ok, that looks good. Have you got the detailed plans and cut list? duh never mind. found it


----------



## gwurst

gwurst said:


> *I love it when a plan comes together...*
> 
> Awhile back Wood Magazine had an article on building a mobile outfeed table that would fit over your table saw. Since I need all the space in my garage I can get, I went ahead and built one that would fit over my table saw to give me some much needed work space and a handy outfeed table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought this was pretty spiffy and a great use of space. As I always do I look at the latest project posts on Lumberjocks looking for inspiration for my next project. Whilst browsing I came across an entry by yzf600:
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/6885
> 
> I thought it was a keen idea, but unfortunately I already had the outfeed table covering my saw and just bookmarked it for future use. Then a couple days later it hit me: "Why not build a mobile cabinet that would fit the footprint of my outfeed table and allow me to store it underneath as well?"
> 
> After taking some measurements and a couple days playing with Sketchup I have the following design:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cabinet fits my table saw and has an extension wing on the left side for larger sheet goods. It also has a built-in router insert and a downdraft table for sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back has the 4" dust port for the table saw that will mount to a box under the middle of the saw. It also has 2 1/2" dust ports for the router and sanding box. I haven't decided if I will tie them all together or just connect the vacuum to the needed port.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left side of the cabinet is filled with drawers. The two drawers directly under the saw on each side have two shelves and the center drawer is short to allow for the dust collection box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right side of the cabinet is just open compartments covered by doors. The router goes in the upper left and I will build a box for the sanding table in the upper right. I will likely build some additional structures in the router cabinet to help funnel dust.
> 
> The cabinet will be largely plywood, and drawers will probably be made with 1/2" MDF. The top will be 3/4" MDF with a laminated top. The top itself will have holes drilled in it for the downdraft dust collection.
> 
> Now, I need to draw-up material requirements and cutting diagrams. Of course, I'll probably change a thing here and there as well. If anyone has any dust collection recommendations I'm open to more suggestions.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Greg


The plans are on the last blog in this series:

http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/gwurst/blog/4774


----------



## KnockOnWood

gwurst said:


> *I love it when a plan comes together...*
> 
> Awhile back Wood Magazine had an article on building a mobile outfeed table that would fit over your table saw. Since I need all the space in my garage I can get, I went ahead and built one that would fit over my table saw to give me some much needed work space and a handy outfeed table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought this was pretty spiffy and a great use of space. As I always do I look at the latest project posts on Lumberjocks looking for inspiration for my next project. Whilst browsing I came across an entry by yzf600:
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/6885
> 
> I thought it was a keen idea, but unfortunately I already had the outfeed table covering my saw and just bookmarked it for future use. Then a couple days later it hit me: "Why not build a mobile cabinet that would fit the footprint of my outfeed table and allow me to store it underneath as well?"
> 
> After taking some measurements and a couple days playing with Sketchup I have the following design:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cabinet fits my table saw and has an extension wing on the left side for larger sheet goods. It also has a built-in router insert and a downdraft table for sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back has the 4" dust port for the table saw that will mount to a box under the middle of the saw. It also has 2 1/2" dust ports for the router and sanding box. I haven't decided if I will tie them all together or just connect the vacuum to the needed port.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left side of the cabinet is filled with drawers. The two drawers directly under the saw on each side have two shelves and the center drawer is short to allow for the dust collection box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right side of the cabinet is just open compartments covered by doors. The router goes in the upper left and I will build a box for the sanding table in the upper right. I will likely build some additional structures in the router cabinet to help funnel dust.
> 
> The cabinet will be largely plywood, and drawers will probably be made with 1/2" MDF. The top will be 3/4" MDF with a laminated top. The top itself will have holes drilled in it for the downdraft dust collection.
> 
> Now, I need to draw-up material requirements and cutting diagrams. Of course, I'll probably change a thing here and there as well. If anyone has any dust collection recommendations I'm open to more suggestions.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Greg


I gotta have one.


----------



## Jimmy5star

gwurst said:


> *I love it when a plan comes together...*
> 
> Awhile back Wood Magazine had an article on building a mobile outfeed table that would fit over your table saw. Since I need all the space in my garage I can get, I went ahead and built one that would fit over my table saw to give me some much needed work space and a handy outfeed table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought this was pretty spiffy and a great use of space. As I always do I look at the latest project posts on Lumberjocks looking for inspiration for my next project. Whilst browsing I came across an entry by yzf600:
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/6885
> 
> I thought it was a keen idea, but unfortunately I already had the outfeed table covering my saw and just bookmarked it for future use. Then a couple days later it hit me: "Why not build a mobile cabinet that would fit the footprint of my outfeed table and allow me to store it underneath as well?"
> 
> After taking some measurements and a couple days playing with Sketchup I have the following design:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cabinet fits my table saw and has an extension wing on the left side for larger sheet goods. It also has a built-in router insert and a downdraft table for sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back has the 4" dust port for the table saw that will mount to a box under the middle of the saw. It also has 2 1/2" dust ports for the router and sanding box. I haven't decided if I will tie them all together or just connect the vacuum to the needed port.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left side of the cabinet is filled with drawers. The two drawers directly under the saw on each side have two shelves and the center drawer is short to allow for the dust collection box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right side of the cabinet is just open compartments covered by doors. The router goes in the upper left and I will build a box for the sanding table in the upper right. I will likely build some additional structures in the router cabinet to help funnel dust.
> 
> The cabinet will be largely plywood, and drawers will probably be made with 1/2" MDF. The top will be 3/4" MDF with a laminated top. The top itself will have holes drilled in it for the downdraft dust collection.
> 
> Now, I need to draw-up material requirements and cutting diagrams. Of course, I'll probably change a thing here and there as well. If anyone has any dust collection recommendations I'm open to more suggestions.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Greg


Hi Greg,
Can't seem to find the plan at the provided link. Is it possible to still obtain? If not I'll figure it out. Thanks for the wonderful inspiration and help. 
Great work!
Jim


----------



## Jimmy5star

gwurst said:


> *I love it when a plan comes together...*
> 
> Awhile back Wood Magazine had an article on building a mobile outfeed table that would fit over your table saw. Since I need all the space in my garage I can get, I went ahead and built one that would fit over my table saw to give me some much needed work space and a handy outfeed table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought this was pretty spiffy and a great use of space. As I always do I look at the latest project posts on Lumberjocks looking for inspiration for my next project. Whilst browsing I came across an entry by yzf600:
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/6885
> 
> I thought it was a keen idea, but unfortunately I already had the outfeed table covering my saw and just bookmarked it for future use. Then a couple days later it hit me: "Why not build a mobile cabinet that would fit the footprint of my outfeed table and allow me to store it underneath as well?"
> 
> After taking some measurements and a couple days playing with Sketchup I have the following design:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cabinet fits my table saw and has an extension wing on the left side for larger sheet goods. It also has a built-in router insert and a downdraft table for sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back has the 4" dust port for the table saw that will mount to a box under the middle of the saw. It also has 2 1/2" dust ports for the router and sanding box. I haven't decided if I will tie them all together or just connect the vacuum to the needed port.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left side of the cabinet is filled with drawers. The two drawers directly under the saw on each side have two shelves and the center drawer is short to allow for the dust collection box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right side of the cabinet is just open compartments covered by doors. The router goes in the upper left and I will build a box for the sanding table in the upper right. I will likely build some additional structures in the router cabinet to help funnel dust.
> 
> The cabinet will be largely plywood, and drawers will probably be made with 1/2" MDF. The top will be 3/4" MDF with a laminated top. The top itself will have holes drilled in it for the downdraft dust collection.
> 
> Now, I need to draw-up material requirements and cutting diagrams. Of course, I'll probably change a thing here and there as well. If anyone has any dust collection recommendations I'm open to more suggestions.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Greg


By the way, I didn't realize you were so young!
And good looking too!

Jim


----------



## Jimmy5star

gwurst said:


> *I love it when a plan comes together...*
> 
> Awhile back Wood Magazine had an article on building a mobile outfeed table that would fit over your table saw. Since I need all the space in my garage I can get, I went ahead and built one that would fit over my table saw to give me some much needed work space and a handy outfeed table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought this was pretty spiffy and a great use of space. As I always do I look at the latest project posts on Lumberjocks looking for inspiration for my next project. Whilst browsing I came across an entry by yzf600:
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/6885
> 
> I thought it was a keen idea, but unfortunately I already had the outfeed table covering my saw and just bookmarked it for future use. Then a couple days later it hit me: "Why not build a mobile cabinet that would fit the footprint of my outfeed table and allow me to store it underneath as well?"
> 
> After taking some measurements and a couple days playing with Sketchup I have the following design:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cabinet fits my table saw and has an extension wing on the left side for larger sheet goods. It also has a built-in router insert and a downdraft table for sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back has the 4" dust port for the table saw that will mount to a box under the middle of the saw. It also has 2 1/2" dust ports for the router and sanding box. I haven't decided if I will tie them all together or just connect the vacuum to the needed port.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left side of the cabinet is filled with drawers. The two drawers directly under the saw on each side have two shelves and the center drawer is short to allow for the dust collection box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right side of the cabinet is just open compartments covered by doors. The router goes in the upper left and I will build a box for the sanding table in the upper right. I will likely build some additional structures in the router cabinet to help funnel dust.
> 
> The cabinet will be largely plywood, and drawers will probably be made with 1/2" MDF. The top will be 3/4" MDF with a laminated top. The top itself will have holes drilled in it for the downdraft dust collection.
> 
> Now, I need to draw-up material requirements and cutting diagrams. Of course, I'll probably change a thing here and there as well. If anyone has any dust collection recommendations I'm open to more suggestions.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Greg


Duh!
The boob finally found it.
Nice "Vette!

Jim


----------



## gwurst

gwurst said:


> *I love it when a plan comes together...*
> 
> Awhile back Wood Magazine had an article on building a mobile outfeed table that would fit over your table saw. Since I need all the space in my garage I can get, I went ahead and built one that would fit over my table saw to give me some much needed work space and a handy outfeed table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought this was pretty spiffy and a great use of space. As I always do I look at the latest project posts on Lumberjocks looking for inspiration for my next project. Whilst browsing I came across an entry by yzf600:
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/6885
> 
> I thought it was a keen idea, but unfortunately I already had the outfeed table covering my saw and just bookmarked it for future use. Then a couple days later it hit me: "Why not build a mobile cabinet that would fit the footprint of my outfeed table and allow me to store it underneath as well?"
> 
> After taking some measurements and a couple days playing with Sketchup I have the following design:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cabinet fits my table saw and has an extension wing on the left side for larger sheet goods. It also has a built-in router insert and a downdraft table for sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back has the 4" dust port for the table saw that will mount to a box under the middle of the saw. It also has 2 1/2" dust ports for the router and sanding box. I haven't decided if I will tie them all together or just connect the vacuum to the needed port.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left side of the cabinet is filled with drawers. The two drawers directly under the saw on each side have two shelves and the center drawer is short to allow for the dust collection box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right side of the cabinet is just open compartments covered by doors. The router goes in the upper left and I will build a box for the sanding table in the upper right. I will likely build some additional structures in the router cabinet to help funnel dust.
> 
> The cabinet will be largely plywood, and drawers will probably be made with 1/2" MDF. The top will be 3/4" MDF with a laminated top. The top itself will have holes drilled in it for the downdraft dust collection.
> 
> Now, I need to draw-up material requirements and cutting diagrams. Of course, I'll probably change a thing here and there as well. If anyone has any dust collection recommendations I'm open to more suggestions.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Greg


Lol, I started REALLY young.


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## asm

gwurst said:


> *I love it when a plan comes together...*
> 
> Awhile back Wood Magazine had an article on building a mobile outfeed table that would fit over your table saw. Since I need all the space in my garage I can get, I went ahead and built one that would fit over my table saw to give me some much needed work space and a handy outfeed table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought this was pretty spiffy and a great use of space. As I always do I look at the latest project posts on Lumberjocks looking for inspiration for my next project. Whilst browsing I came across an entry by yzf600:
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/projects/6885
> 
> I thought it was a keen idea, but unfortunately I already had the outfeed table covering my saw and just bookmarked it for future use. Then a couple days later it hit me: "Why not build a mobile cabinet that would fit the footprint of my outfeed table and allow me to store it underneath as well?"
> 
> After taking some measurements and a couple days playing with Sketchup I have the following design:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cabinet fits my table saw and has an extension wing on the left side for larger sheet goods. It also has a built-in router insert and a downdraft table for sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back has the 4" dust port for the table saw that will mount to a box under the middle of the saw. It also has 2 1/2" dust ports for the router and sanding box. I haven't decided if I will tie them all together or just connect the vacuum to the needed port.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left side of the cabinet is filled with drawers. The two drawers directly under the saw on each side have two shelves and the center drawer is short to allow for the dust collection box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The right side of the cabinet is just open compartments covered by doors. The router goes in the upper left and I will build a box for the sanding table in the upper right. I will likely build some additional structures in the router cabinet to help funnel dust.
> 
> The cabinet will be largely plywood, and drawers will probably be made with 1/2" MDF. The top will be 3/4" MDF with a laminated top. The top itself will have holes drilled in it for the downdraft dust collection.
> 
> Now, I need to draw-up material requirements and cutting diagrams. Of course, I'll probably change a thing here and there as well. If anyone has any dust collection recommendations I'm open to more suggestions.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Greg


This has clarified what I want to build.


----------



## gwurst

*Measuring, Cutting Diagrams, and Material Lists*

Well, now that I'm fairly comfortable with the layout and construction of the cabinet it was time to tear things apart and get some actual measurements and formulate a material list and plan of attack (much easier to tear virtual cabinets apart!).

After saving the Sketchup plan as another file I start removing unnecessary and duplicate items and start putting-in some dimensions. The pictures should show most if not all of the dimensions I used, but I can't say for sure since I have to rotate everything around to get to all the surfaces I need to measure.























































With the dimensions I need I open Excel and put together a spreadsheet listing all the parts I need along with the material, dimensions, quantity, and a part label.


















Now, it's back to Sketchup where I mock-up some sheet goods and 2×4's and try to fit all the pieces where I can minimize waste. I butt all the pieces together in Sketchup, but it's important to account for the saw kerf and make sure you have enough extra material to account for the number of cuts. If you're putting 8 pieces across a 4' span and only leave 1/2" extra you're not going to have enough!



















I then have an idea of what kind of raw material I need, and I list the needed items at the bottom of my material list along with some pricing to get an idea of what I'm going to spend. I don't have every item on the list, since I already have some of the material I need (screws, piano hinges, etc).

I'd attach links to the actual Sketchup and Excel files, but until I actually get the cabinet built I consider them to be a "work in progress". Once I'm done I'll modify them as needed and make them available in case anyone's interested.


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## GaryK

gwurst said:


> *Measuring, Cutting Diagrams, and Material Lists*
> 
> Well, now that I'm fairly comfortable with the layout and construction of the cabinet it was time to tear things apart and get some actual measurements and formulate a material list and plan of attack (much easier to tear virtual cabinets apart!).
> 
> After saving the Sketchup plan as another file I start removing unnecessary and duplicate items and start putting-in some dimensions. The pictures should show most if not all of the dimensions I used, but I can't say for sure since I have to rotate everything around to get to all the surfaces I need to measure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the dimensions I need I open Excel and put together a spreadsheet listing all the parts I need along with the material, dimensions, quantity, and a part label.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, it's back to Sketchup where I mock-up some sheet goods and 2×4's and try to fit all the pieces where I can minimize waste. I butt all the pieces together in Sketchup, but it's important to account for the saw kerf and make sure you have enough extra material to account for the number of cuts. If you're putting 8 pieces across a 4' span and only leave 1/2" extra you're not going to have enough!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then have an idea of what kind of raw material I need, and I list the needed items at the bottom of my material list along with some pricing to get an idea of what I'm going to spend. I don't have every item on the list, since I already have some of the material I need (screws, piano hinges, etc).
> 
> I'd attach links to the actual Sketchup and Excel files, but until I actually get the cabinet built I consider them to be a "work in progress". Once I'm done I'll modify them as needed and make them available in case anyone's interested.


That's an "excel"ent job sorting things out like that!


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## sIKE

gwurst said:


> *Measuring, Cutting Diagrams, and Material Lists*
> 
> Well, now that I'm fairly comfortable with the layout and construction of the cabinet it was time to tear things apart and get some actual measurements and formulate a material list and plan of attack (much easier to tear virtual cabinets apart!).
> 
> After saving the Sketchup plan as another file I start removing unnecessary and duplicate items and start putting-in some dimensions. The pictures should show most if not all of the dimensions I used, but I can't say for sure since I have to rotate everything around to get to all the surfaces I need to measure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the dimensions I need I open Excel and put together a spreadsheet listing all the parts I need along with the material, dimensions, quantity, and a part label.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, it's back to Sketchup where I mock-up some sheet goods and 2×4's and try to fit all the pieces where I can minimize waste. I butt all the pieces together in Sketchup, but it's important to account for the saw kerf and make sure you have enough extra material to account for the number of cuts. If you're putting 8 pieces across a 4' span and only leave 1/2" extra you're not going to have enough!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then have an idea of what kind of raw material I need, and I list the needed items at the bottom of my material list along with some pricing to get an idea of what I'm going to spend. I don't have every item on the list, since I already have some of the material I need (screws, piano hinges, etc).
> 
> I'd attach links to the actual Sketchup and Excel files, but until I actually get the cabinet built I consider them to be a "work in progress". Once I'm done I'll modify them as needed and make them available in case anyone's interested.


Man this project looks great, I went back and read the previous post and read it. I too have made the same outfeed table. The table I made is much longer than the one you made as my saw has 52" inch rails. So this project in itself is out of the question for me, but looking at the idea as presented is very exicting.


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## gad5264

gwurst said:


> *Measuring, Cutting Diagrams, and Material Lists*
> 
> Well, now that I'm fairly comfortable with the layout and construction of the cabinet it was time to tear things apart and get some actual measurements and formulate a material list and plan of attack (much easier to tear virtual cabinets apart!).
> 
> After saving the Sketchup plan as another file I start removing unnecessary and duplicate items and start putting-in some dimensions. The pictures should show most if not all of the dimensions I used, but I can't say for sure since I have to rotate everything around to get to all the surfaces I need to measure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the dimensions I need I open Excel and put together a spreadsheet listing all the parts I need along with the material, dimensions, quantity, and a part label.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, it's back to Sketchup where I mock-up some sheet goods and 2×4's and try to fit all the pieces where I can minimize waste. I butt all the pieces together in Sketchup, but it's important to account for the saw kerf and make sure you have enough extra material to account for the number of cuts. If you're putting 8 pieces across a 4' span and only leave 1/2" extra you're not going to have enough!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then have an idea of what kind of raw material I need, and I list the needed items at the bottom of my material list along with some pricing to get an idea of what I'm going to spend. I don't have every item on the list, since I already have some of the material I need (screws, piano hinges, etc).
> 
> I'd attach links to the actual Sketchup and Excel files, but until I actually get the cabinet built I consider them to be a "work in progress". Once I'm done I'll modify them as needed and make them available in case anyone's interested.


Where is my to do lit. I have another entry to add to it. Sweeeeeeeeeeeet design and execution of the plans.


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## motthunter

gwurst said:


> *Measuring, Cutting Diagrams, and Material Lists*
> 
> Well, now that I'm fairly comfortable with the layout and construction of the cabinet it was time to tear things apart and get some actual measurements and formulate a material list and plan of attack (much easier to tear virtual cabinets apart!).
> 
> After saving the Sketchup plan as another file I start removing unnecessary and duplicate items and start putting-in some dimensions. The pictures should show most if not all of the dimensions I used, but I can't say for sure since I have to rotate everything around to get to all the surfaces I need to measure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the dimensions I need I open Excel and put together a spreadsheet listing all the parts I need along with the material, dimensions, quantity, and a part label.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, it's back to Sketchup where I mock-up some sheet goods and 2×4's and try to fit all the pieces where I can minimize waste. I butt all the pieces together in Sketchup, but it's important to account for the saw kerf and make sure you have enough extra material to account for the number of cuts. If you're putting 8 pieces across a 4' span and only leave 1/2" extra you're not going to have enough!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then have an idea of what kind of raw material I need, and I list the needed items at the bottom of my material list along with some pricing to get an idea of what I'm going to spend. I don't have every item on the list, since I already have some of the material I need (screws, piano hinges, etc).
> 
> I'd attach links to the actual Sketchup and Excel files, but until I actually get the cabinet built I consider them to be a "work in progress". Once I'm done I'll modify them as needed and make them available in case anyone's interested.


really cool. congrats. planning takes a while but usually ends up saving time


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## sbryan55

gwurst said:


> *Measuring, Cutting Diagrams, and Material Lists*
> 
> Well, now that I'm fairly comfortable with the layout and construction of the cabinet it was time to tear things apart and get some actual measurements and formulate a material list and plan of attack (much easier to tear virtual cabinets apart!).
> 
> After saving the Sketchup plan as another file I start removing unnecessary and duplicate items and start putting-in some dimensions. The pictures should show most if not all of the dimensions I used, but I can't say for sure since I have to rotate everything around to get to all the surfaces I need to measure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the dimensions I need I open Excel and put together a spreadsheet listing all the parts I need along with the material, dimensions, quantity, and a part label.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, it's back to Sketchup where I mock-up some sheet goods and 2×4's and try to fit all the pieces where I can minimize waste. I butt all the pieces together in Sketchup, but it's important to account for the saw kerf and make sure you have enough extra material to account for the number of cuts. If you're putting 8 pieces across a 4' span and only leave 1/2" extra you're not going to have enough!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then have an idea of what kind of raw material I need, and I list the needed items at the bottom of my material list along with some pricing to get an idea of what I'm going to spend. I don't have every item on the list, since I already have some of the material I need (screws, piano hinges, etc).
> 
> I'd attach links to the actual Sketchup and Excel files, but until I actually get the cabinet built I consider them to be a "work in progress". Once I'm done I'll modify them as needed and make them available in case anyone's interested.


You have done a great job with planning this project. I will be interested in seeing the construction posts as well.


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## FatherHooligan

gwurst said:


> *Measuring, Cutting Diagrams, and Material Lists*
> 
> Well, now that I'm fairly comfortable with the layout and construction of the cabinet it was time to tear things apart and get some actual measurements and formulate a material list and plan of attack (much easier to tear virtual cabinets apart!).
> 
> After saving the Sketchup plan as another file I start removing unnecessary and duplicate items and start putting-in some dimensions. The pictures should show most if not all of the dimensions I used, but I can't say for sure since I have to rotate everything around to get to all the surfaces I need to measure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the dimensions I need I open Excel and put together a spreadsheet listing all the parts I need along with the material, dimensions, quantity, and a part label.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, it's back to Sketchup where I mock-up some sheet goods and 2×4's and try to fit all the pieces where I can minimize waste. I butt all the pieces together in Sketchup, but it's important to account for the saw kerf and make sure you have enough extra material to account for the number of cuts. If you're putting 8 pieces across a 4' span and only leave 1/2" extra you're not going to have enough!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then have an idea of what kind of raw material I need, and I list the needed items at the bottom of my material list along with some pricing to get an idea of what I'm going to spend. I don't have every item on the list, since I already have some of the material I need (screws, piano hinges, etc).
> 
> I'd attach links to the actual Sketchup and Excel files, but until I actually get the cabinet built I consider them to be a "work in progress". Once I'm done I'll modify them as needed and make them available in case anyone's interested.


Do you consider the orientation of the grain on the outer veneer on the ply when you lay out the pieces? I've only built one bookcase out of oak ply and I know sorting the grain to finally look good upped the estimate of how much ply was needed.

Awesome layout and Excel stuff, I am looking forward to the complete SU model.


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## gwurst

gwurst said:


> *Measuring, Cutting Diagrams, and Material Lists*
> 
> Well, now that I'm fairly comfortable with the layout and construction of the cabinet it was time to tear things apart and get some actual measurements and formulate a material list and plan of attack (much easier to tear virtual cabinets apart!).
> 
> After saving the Sketchup plan as another file I start removing unnecessary and duplicate items and start putting-in some dimensions. The pictures should show most if not all of the dimensions I used, but I can't say for sure since I have to rotate everything around to get to all the surfaces I need to measure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the dimensions I need I open Excel and put together a spreadsheet listing all the parts I need along with the material, dimensions, quantity, and a part label.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, it's back to Sketchup where I mock-up some sheet goods and 2×4's and try to fit all the pieces where I can minimize waste. I butt all the pieces together in Sketchup, but it's important to account for the saw kerf and make sure you have enough extra material to account for the number of cuts. If you're putting 8 pieces across a 4' span and only leave 1/2" extra you're not going to have enough!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then have an idea of what kind of raw material I need, and I list the needed items at the bottom of my material list along with some pricing to get an idea of what I'm going to spend. I don't have every item on the list, since I already have some of the material I need (screws, piano hinges, etc).
> 
> I'd attach links to the actual Sketchup and Excel files, but until I actually get the cabinet built I consider them to be a "work in progress". Once I'm done I'll modify them as needed and make them available in case anyone's interested.


The only readily visible birch pieces are the sides and middle cabinet top, and they all have the grain oriented in a pleasing fashion. The top, back, and all drawers and fronts are MDF so grain isn't important. Some of the interior braces and drawer separators will have non-optimal grain orientation, but they aren't visible normally and since this is shop furniture I'm not overly concerned. I doubt I'll even put any kind of finish on it, although I may paint the whole thing white if I'm feeling ambitious. I've seen some shop furniture on here that looks better than some of the stuff I have in my house, but I don't plan on putting that amount of effort into it.


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## JohnFromMass

gwurst said:


> *Measuring, Cutting Diagrams, and Material Lists*
> 
> Well, now that I'm fairly comfortable with the layout and construction of the cabinet it was time to tear things apart and get some actual measurements and formulate a material list and plan of attack (much easier to tear virtual cabinets apart!).
> 
> After saving the Sketchup plan as another file I start removing unnecessary and duplicate items and start putting-in some dimensions. The pictures should show most if not all of the dimensions I used, but I can't say for sure since I have to rotate everything around to get to all the surfaces I need to measure.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> With the dimensions I need I open Excel and put together a spreadsheet listing all the parts I need along with the material, dimensions, quantity, and a part label.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, it's back to Sketchup where I mock-up some sheet goods and 2×4's and try to fit all the pieces where I can minimize waste. I butt all the pieces together in Sketchup, but it's important to account for the saw kerf and make sure you have enough extra material to account for the number of cuts. If you're putting 8 pieces across a 4' span and only leave 1/2" extra you're not going to have enough!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then have an idea of what kind of raw material I need, and I list the needed items at the bottom of my material list along with some pricing to get an idea of what I'm going to spend. I don't have every item on the list, since I already have some of the material I need (screws, piano hinges, etc).
> 
> I'd attach links to the actual Sketchup and Excel files, but until I actually get the cabinet built I consider them to be a "work in progress". Once I'm done I'll modify them as needed and make them available in case anyone's interested.


I have waited for a while to join lumberjocks.com because I am new at this and did not feel worthy. But this post and work behind it made me do it, just to say this. Thanks!


----------



## gwurst

*Finally cutting some wood*

Having a busy schedule and a 2 yr old does not lend itself to significant shop time. I finally took a couple half days and got some work done. Working out of my garage with a requirement that cars have to go back in at the end of the day limits the amount of work I can bite-off at any one time. My intention was to get the birch ply first and build the chassis, then go back for the MDF and build the drawers, doors, top and back. However, when I get to the local HD they have one delaminated piece of birch play, so MDF first it is.

On the first day I clear-out the cars and setup the 'ol table saw:










After cutting the sheet goods down to a manageable size with a circular saw, I was able to cut the various parts I needed from the 1/2" and 3/4" MDF, along with the 2×4's for the bottom:










A well layed-out cutting diagram really helps minimize waste and extra cuts. That combined with an accurate fence allowed me to plow-through the material in a couple hours and get the garage cleaned-up. As always, I have scrap left over and I probably kept about half of it for future use:










The next day I decided to assemble as much of the MDF pieces as I could before I went to get the plywood and cut the chassis pieces. So, out comes one of my favorite jigs of all time - The pocket hole jig:










This is the first time I've tried pocket screws with 1/2" material, and my opinion is it's workable but has its limitations. The screws are designed for joining 1/2" material, but they will not rest flush under any circumstances. The heads are always slightly proud of the surface. I have sufficient space around the drawers that this won't be a problem, but it's something to think about if you're designing anything with close tolerances. If I tried to drill the holes deeper to bury the heads the screws would poke-out the other side of my test material. Also. with MDF I needed to set the clutch setting on my drill to 2 to keep from overdriving the screws. The drawers are sturdy, and with the bottom/side mount rails I am confident they will be fine:



















Once I finished assembling the drawers I went to another HD to get the birch ply. They had plenty, but it was some of the lousiest ply I have seen. Of course, it was the Chinese stuff and it looked like it had been standing in water on the edges. There was even mold growing on the ends! I managed to find 2 decent pieces of "classic" birch ply I could use (regular 3/4" birch was $39.95 nd "classic" was $34.95 - not sure what the difference was". Time was running-out, so I cut the sheet goods down to size with the circular saw again and then took them to the table saw to finish. I stacked everything in the corner so I could get the cars in the garage (Thank goodness I have that 4 ft extension on the garage!):










This last picture is just proof you can get 2 cars and 2 motorcycles in a garage and still be able to occasionally use it as a workshop if you don't mind cleaning-up at the end of the day:










Hopefully I'll find time to do some more assembly here in the next couple days.


----------



## GaryK

gwurst said:


> *Finally cutting some wood*
> 
> Having a busy schedule and a 2 yr old does not lend itself to significant shop time. I finally took a couple half days and got some work done. Working out of my garage with a requirement that cars have to go back in at the end of the day limits the amount of work I can bite-off at any one time. My intention was to get the birch ply first and build the chassis, then go back for the MDF and build the drawers, doors, top and back. However, when I get to the local HD they have one delaminated piece of birch play, so MDF first it is.
> 
> On the first day I clear-out the cars and setup the 'ol table saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the sheet goods down to a manageable size with a circular saw, I was able to cut the various parts I needed from the 1/2" and 3/4" MDF, along with the 2×4's for the bottom:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A well layed-out cutting diagram really helps minimize waste and extra cuts. That combined with an accurate fence allowed me to plow-through the material in a couple hours and get the garage cleaned-up. As always, I have scrap left over and I probably kept about half of it for future use:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next day I decided to assemble as much of the MDF pieces as I could before I went to get the plywood and cut the chassis pieces. So, out comes one of my favorite jigs of all time - The pocket hole jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the first time I've tried pocket screws with 1/2" material, and my opinion is it's workable but has its limitations. The screws are designed for joining 1/2" material, but they will not rest flush under any circumstances. The heads are always slightly proud of the surface. I have sufficient space around the drawers that this won't be a problem, but it's something to think about if you're designing anything with close tolerances. If I tried to drill the holes deeper to bury the heads the screws would poke-out the other side of my test material. Also. with MDF I needed to set the clutch setting on my drill to 2 to keep from overdriving the screws. The drawers are sturdy, and with the bottom/side mount rails I am confident they will be fine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I finished assembling the drawers I went to another HD to get the birch ply. They had plenty, but it was some of the lousiest ply I have seen. Of course, it was the Chinese stuff and it looked like it had been standing in water on the edges. There was even mold growing on the ends! I managed to find 2 decent pieces of "classic" birch ply I could use (regular 3/4" birch was $39.95 nd "classic" was $34.95 - not sure what the difference was". Time was running-out, so I cut the sheet goods down to size with the circular saw again and then took them to the table saw to finish. I stacked everything in the corner so I could get the cars in the garage (Thank goodness I have that 4 ft extension on the garage!):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This last picture is just proof you can get 2 cars and 2 motorcycles in a garage and still be able to occasionally use it as a workshop if you don't mind cleaning-up at the end of the day:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully I'll find time to do some more assembly here in the next couple days.


Sounds like you need to build a separate shop!


----------



## gwurst

gwurst said:


> *Finally cutting some wood*
> 
> Having a busy schedule and a 2 yr old does not lend itself to significant shop time. I finally took a couple half days and got some work done. Working out of my garage with a requirement that cars have to go back in at the end of the day limits the amount of work I can bite-off at any one time. My intention was to get the birch ply first and build the chassis, then go back for the MDF and build the drawers, doors, top and back. However, when I get to the local HD they have one delaminated piece of birch play, so MDF first it is.
> 
> On the first day I clear-out the cars and setup the 'ol table saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the sheet goods down to a manageable size with a circular saw, I was able to cut the various parts I needed from the 1/2" and 3/4" MDF, along with the 2×4's for the bottom:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A well layed-out cutting diagram really helps minimize waste and extra cuts. That combined with an accurate fence allowed me to plow-through the material in a couple hours and get the garage cleaned-up. As always, I have scrap left over and I probably kept about half of it for future use:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next day I decided to assemble as much of the MDF pieces as I could before I went to get the plywood and cut the chassis pieces. So, out comes one of my favorite jigs of all time - The pocket hole jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the first time I've tried pocket screws with 1/2" material, and my opinion is it's workable but has its limitations. The screws are designed for joining 1/2" material, but they will not rest flush under any circumstances. The heads are always slightly proud of the surface. I have sufficient space around the drawers that this won't be a problem, but it's something to think about if you're designing anything with close tolerances. If I tried to drill the holes deeper to bury the heads the screws would poke-out the other side of my test material. Also. with MDF I needed to set the clutch setting on my drill to 2 to keep from overdriving the screws. The drawers are sturdy, and with the bottom/side mount rails I am confident they will be fine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I finished assembling the drawers I went to another HD to get the birch ply. They had plenty, but it was some of the lousiest ply I have seen. Of course, it was the Chinese stuff and it looked like it had been standing in water on the edges. There was even mold growing on the ends! I managed to find 2 decent pieces of "classic" birch ply I could use (regular 3/4" birch was $39.95 nd "classic" was $34.95 - not sure what the difference was". Time was running-out, so I cut the sheet goods down to size with the circular saw again and then took them to the table saw to finish. I stacked everything in the corner so I could get the cars in the garage (Thank goodness I have that 4 ft extension on the garage!):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This last picture is just proof you can get 2 cars and 2 motorcycles in a garage and still be able to occasionally use it as a workshop if you don't mind cleaning-up at the end of the day:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully I'll find time to do some more assembly here in the next couple days.


If I had more than 1/4 of an acre I'd have a separate shop. I do have a small one in the basement, but sheet goods have to be at least cut-up in the garage.


----------



## sbryan55

gwurst said:


> *Finally cutting some wood*
> 
> Having a busy schedule and a 2 yr old does not lend itself to significant shop time. I finally took a couple half days and got some work done. Working out of my garage with a requirement that cars have to go back in at the end of the day limits the amount of work I can bite-off at any one time. My intention was to get the birch ply first and build the chassis, then go back for the MDF and build the drawers, doors, top and back. However, when I get to the local HD they have one delaminated piece of birch play, so MDF first it is.
> 
> On the first day I clear-out the cars and setup the 'ol table saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the sheet goods down to a manageable size with a circular saw, I was able to cut the various parts I needed from the 1/2" and 3/4" MDF, along with the 2×4's for the bottom:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A well layed-out cutting diagram really helps minimize waste and extra cuts. That combined with an accurate fence allowed me to plow-through the material in a couple hours and get the garage cleaned-up. As always, I have scrap left over and I probably kept about half of it for future use:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next day I decided to assemble as much of the MDF pieces as I could before I went to get the plywood and cut the chassis pieces. So, out comes one of my favorite jigs of all time - The pocket hole jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the first time I've tried pocket screws with 1/2" material, and my opinion is it's workable but has its limitations. The screws are designed for joining 1/2" material, but they will not rest flush under any circumstances. The heads are always slightly proud of the surface. I have sufficient space around the drawers that this won't be a problem, but it's something to think about if you're designing anything with close tolerances. If I tried to drill the holes deeper to bury the heads the screws would poke-out the other side of my test material. Also. with MDF I needed to set the clutch setting on my drill to 2 to keep from overdriving the screws. The drawers are sturdy, and with the bottom/side mount rails I am confident they will be fine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I finished assembling the drawers I went to another HD to get the birch ply. They had plenty, but it was some of the lousiest ply I have seen. Of course, it was the Chinese stuff and it looked like it had been standing in water on the edges. There was even mold growing on the ends! I managed to find 2 decent pieces of "classic" birch ply I could use (regular 3/4" birch was $39.95 nd "classic" was $34.95 - not sure what the difference was". Time was running-out, so I cut the sheet goods down to size with the circular saw again and then took them to the table saw to finish. I stacked everything in the corner so I could get the cars in the garage (Thank goodness I have that 4 ft extension on the garage!):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This last picture is just proof you can get 2 cars and 2 motorcycles in a garage and still be able to occasionally use it as a workshop if you don't mind cleaning-up at the end of the day:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully I'll find time to do some more assembly here in the next couple days.


This is looking pretty good.

I can empathize with you about parking in the garage. I used to have to do that with my truck but as I added more tools and an assembly bench I couldn't get my truck in there any longer. Now is just sits outside. But it was a challenge to fit it into the garage and have to arrange my tools so that I would be able to open the door when I got it parked.

Thanks for the post.


----------



## teenagewoodworker

gwurst said:


> *Finally cutting some wood*
> 
> Having a busy schedule and a 2 yr old does not lend itself to significant shop time. I finally took a couple half days and got some work done. Working out of my garage with a requirement that cars have to go back in at the end of the day limits the amount of work I can bite-off at any one time. My intention was to get the birch ply first and build the chassis, then go back for the MDF and build the drawers, doors, top and back. However, when I get to the local HD they have one delaminated piece of birch play, so MDF first it is.
> 
> On the first day I clear-out the cars and setup the 'ol table saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the sheet goods down to a manageable size with a circular saw, I was able to cut the various parts I needed from the 1/2" and 3/4" MDF, along with the 2×4's for the bottom:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A well layed-out cutting diagram really helps minimize waste and extra cuts. That combined with an accurate fence allowed me to plow-through the material in a couple hours and get the garage cleaned-up. As always, I have scrap left over and I probably kept about half of it for future use:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next day I decided to assemble as much of the MDF pieces as I could before I went to get the plywood and cut the chassis pieces. So, out comes one of my favorite jigs of all time - The pocket hole jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the first time I've tried pocket screws with 1/2" material, and my opinion is it's workable but has its limitations. The screws are designed for joining 1/2" material, but they will not rest flush under any circumstances. The heads are always slightly proud of the surface. I have sufficient space around the drawers that this won't be a problem, but it's something to think about if you're designing anything with close tolerances. If I tried to drill the holes deeper to bury the heads the screws would poke-out the other side of my test material. Also. with MDF I needed to set the clutch setting on my drill to 2 to keep from overdriving the screws. The drawers are sturdy, and with the bottom/side mount rails I am confident they will be fine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I finished assembling the drawers I went to another HD to get the birch ply. They had plenty, but it was some of the lousiest ply I have seen. Of course, it was the Chinese stuff and it looked like it had been standing in water on the edges. There was even mold growing on the ends! I managed to find 2 decent pieces of "classic" birch ply I could use (regular 3/4" birch was $39.95 nd "classic" was $34.95 - not sure what the difference was". Time was running-out, so I cut the sheet goods down to size with the circular saw again and then took them to the table saw to finish. I stacked everything in the corner so I could get the cars in the garage (Thank goodness I have that 4 ft extension on the garage!):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This last picture is just proof you can get 2 cars and 2 motorcycles in a garage and still be able to occasionally use it as a workshop if you don't mind cleaning-up at the end of the day:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully I'll find time to do some more assembly here in the next couple days.


looking good, small shops are hard to work with. my shop is about 10 by maybe 15 of workable area so all sheet goods need to be cut outside before being brought in. i'm looking to make a movable stand like this to save space in my shop as the table saw takes up the whole thing! thanks for the post.


----------



## gwurst

*Construction is moving along..*

Lots of pictures, so I'll keep the text to a minimum:

I started by putting the center cabinet together. The holes are too small for a drill driver, so I had to get creative with installing the pocket screws.










I went ahead and added the drawer slides before the top went on. A piece of 1/2" MDF makes a perfect spacer.










Here's the center cabinet with drawers sans top.


















I then moved on to the right side cabinet and started attaching the pieces.










A quick shot of the left and center cabinet sitting next to each other.










Right cabinet with dust collection box and cutouts for router and router fence bolts.










Attaching top to center cabinet after adding dust collection elbow for saw.










Adding wood edge banding to the cabinets.










All cabinets sitting next to each other waiting for attachment. If you notice the right side cabinet is backwards. I edge banded the wrong side and ended-up removing and flipping the top the correct direction.










Attaching the cabinets with 1/4" bolts. I didn't have enough room to drill the holes in the top left cabinet so I had to remove the side. I should have clamped the sides together earlier and drilled the holes.










Attaching the bottom brace.










Workstations bolted together and wheels attached.










Workstation with table saw and drawers. The table saw will have to be raised about 1/2" to be even with the tops, which are just sitting there in this picture.










I attached the back and rolled it away for the evening. I'll have to remove the one back piece to cut the dust collection holes for the router and downdraft table. I still need to trim, laminate, and attach the tops, as well as the door and drawer fronts.










A lot of work, but it's starting to come together. It is solid as a rock and I was able to sit in the middle section without any flexing. So far, I am pleased.


----------



## GaryK

gwurst said:


> *Construction is moving along..*
> 
> Lots of pictures, so I'll keep the text to a minimum:
> 
> I started by putting the center cabinet together. The holes are too small for a drill driver, so I had to get creative with installing the pocket screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went ahead and added the drawer slides before the top went on. A piece of 1/2" MDF makes a perfect spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the center cabinet with drawers sans top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then moved on to the right side cabinet and started attaching the pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A quick shot of the left and center cabinet sitting next to each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Right cabinet with dust collection box and cutouts for router and router fence bolts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching top to center cabinet after adding dust collection elbow for saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adding wood edge banding to the cabinets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All cabinets sitting next to each other waiting for attachment. If you notice the right side cabinet is backwards. I edge banded the wrong side and ended-up removing and flipping the top the correct direction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching the cabinets with 1/4" bolts. I didn't have enough room to drill the holes in the top left cabinet so I had to remove the side. I should have clamped the sides together earlier and drilled the holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching the bottom brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workstations bolted together and wheels attached.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workstation with table saw and drawers. The table saw will have to be raised about 1/2" to be even with the tops, which are just sitting there in this picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I attached the back and rolled it away for the evening. I'll have to remove the one back piece to cut the dust collection holes for the router and downdraft table. I still need to trim, laminate, and attach the tops, as well as the door and drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of work, but it's starting to come together. It is solid as a rock and I was able to sit in the middle section without any flexing. So far, I am pleased.


That looks fantastic! Great!


----------



## FatherHooligan

gwurst said:


> *Construction is moving along..*
> 
> Lots of pictures, so I'll keep the text to a minimum:
> 
> I started by putting the center cabinet together. The holes are too small for a drill driver, so I had to get creative with installing the pocket screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went ahead and added the drawer slides before the top went on. A piece of 1/2" MDF makes a perfect spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the center cabinet with drawers sans top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then moved on to the right side cabinet and started attaching the pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A quick shot of the left and center cabinet sitting next to each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Right cabinet with dust collection box and cutouts for router and router fence bolts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching top to center cabinet after adding dust collection elbow for saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adding wood edge banding to the cabinets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All cabinets sitting next to each other waiting for attachment. If you notice the right side cabinet is backwards. I edge banded the wrong side and ended-up removing and flipping the top the correct direction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching the cabinets with 1/4" bolts. I didn't have enough room to drill the holes in the top left cabinet so I had to remove the side. I should have clamped the sides together earlier and drilled the holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching the bottom brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workstations bolted together and wheels attached.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workstation with table saw and drawers. The table saw will have to be raised about 1/2" to be even with the tops, which are just sitting there in this picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I attached the back and rolled it away for the evening. I'll have to remove the one back piece to cut the dust collection holes for the router and downdraft table. I still need to trim, laminate, and attach the tops, as well as the door and drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of work, but it's starting to come together. It is solid as a rock and I was able to sit in the middle section without any flexing. So far, I am pleased.


An incredible cabinet. Thanks for the great photos.


----------



## sbryan55

gwurst said:


> *Construction is moving along..*
> 
> Lots of pictures, so I'll keep the text to a minimum:
> 
> I started by putting the center cabinet together. The holes are too small for a drill driver, so I had to get creative with installing the pocket screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went ahead and added the drawer slides before the top went on. A piece of 1/2" MDF makes a perfect spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the center cabinet with drawers sans top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then moved on to the right side cabinet and started attaching the pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A quick shot of the left and center cabinet sitting next to each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Right cabinet with dust collection box and cutouts for router and router fence bolts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching top to center cabinet after adding dust collection elbow for saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adding wood edge banding to the cabinets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All cabinets sitting next to each other waiting for attachment. If you notice the right side cabinet is backwards. I edge banded the wrong side and ended-up removing and flipping the top the correct direction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching the cabinets with 1/4" bolts. I didn't have enough room to drill the holes in the top left cabinet so I had to remove the side. I should have clamped the sides together earlier and drilled the holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching the bottom brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workstations bolted together and wheels attached.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workstation with table saw and drawers. The table saw will have to be raised about 1/2" to be even with the tops, which are just sitting there in this picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I attached the back and rolled it away for the evening. I'll have to remove the one back piece to cut the dust collection holes for the router and downdraft table. I still need to trim, laminate, and attach the tops, as well as the door and drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of work, but it's starting to come together. It is solid as a rock and I was able to sit in the middle section without any flexing. So far, I am pleased.


This is an outstanding piece of work. Your cabinet will markedly improve the functionality and usefulness of the table saw.

Well done!!!


----------



## woodworkersguide

gwurst said:


> *Construction is moving along..*
> 
> Lots of pictures, so I'll keep the text to a minimum:
> 
> I started by putting the center cabinet together. The holes are too small for a drill driver, so I had to get creative with installing the pocket screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went ahead and added the drawer slides before the top went on. A piece of 1/2" MDF makes a perfect spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the center cabinet with drawers sans top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then moved on to the right side cabinet and started attaching the pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A quick shot of the left and center cabinet sitting next to each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Right cabinet with dust collection box and cutouts for router and router fence bolts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching top to center cabinet after adding dust collection elbow for saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adding wood edge banding to the cabinets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All cabinets sitting next to each other waiting for attachment. If you notice the right side cabinet is backwards. I edge banded the wrong side and ended-up removing and flipping the top the correct direction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching the cabinets with 1/4" bolts. I didn't have enough room to drill the holes in the top left cabinet so I had to remove the side. I should have clamped the sides together earlier and drilled the holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching the bottom brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workstations bolted together and wheels attached.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workstation with table saw and drawers. The table saw will have to be raised about 1/2" to be even with the tops, which are just sitting there in this picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I attached the back and rolled it away for the evening. I'll have to remove the one back piece to cut the dust collection holes for the router and downdraft table. I still need to trim, laminate, and attach the tops, as well as the door and drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of work, but it's starting to come together. It is solid as a rock and I was able to sit in the middle section without any flexing. So far, I am pleased.


It's coming along just fine! I keep looking at my saw with its mishmash of undershelves, etc. and keep thinking of doing the same. Seeing this is bringing me closer of making the plunge.


----------



## SPalm

gwurst said:


> *Construction is moving along..*
> 
> Lots of pictures, so I'll keep the text to a minimum:
> 
> I started by putting the center cabinet together. The holes are too small for a drill driver, so I had to get creative with installing the pocket screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went ahead and added the drawer slides before the top went on. A piece of 1/2" MDF makes a perfect spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the center cabinet with drawers sans top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then moved on to the right side cabinet and started attaching the pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A quick shot of the left and center cabinet sitting next to each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Right cabinet with dust collection box and cutouts for router and router fence bolts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching top to center cabinet after adding dust collection elbow for saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adding wood edge banding to the cabinets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All cabinets sitting next to each other waiting for attachment. If you notice the right side cabinet is backwards. I edge banded the wrong side and ended-up removing and flipping the top the correct direction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching the cabinets with 1/4" bolts. I didn't have enough room to drill the holes in the top left cabinet so I had to remove the side. I should have clamped the sides together earlier and drilled the holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching the bottom brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workstations bolted together and wheels attached.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workstation with table saw and drawers. The table saw will have to be raised about 1/2" to be even with the tops, which are just sitting there in this picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I attached the back and rolled it away for the evening. I'll have to remove the one back piece to cut the dust collection holes for the router and downdraft table. I still need to trim, laminate, and attach the tops, as well as the door and drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of work, but it's starting to come together. It is solid as a rock and I was able to sit in the middle section without any flexing. So far, I am pleased.


That is great. That is going to help a lot. 
Note to self: build more storage.


----------



## blackthumb

gwurst said:


> *Construction is moving along..*
> 
> Lots of pictures, so I'll keep the text to a minimum:
> 
> I started by putting the center cabinet together. The holes are too small for a drill driver, so I had to get creative with installing the pocket screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went ahead and added the drawer slides before the top went on. A piece of 1/2" MDF makes a perfect spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the center cabinet with drawers sans top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then moved on to the right side cabinet and started attaching the pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A quick shot of the left and center cabinet sitting next to each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Right cabinet with dust collection box and cutouts for router and router fence bolts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching top to center cabinet after adding dust collection elbow for saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adding wood edge banding to the cabinets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All cabinets sitting next to each other waiting for attachment. If you notice the right side cabinet is backwards. I edge banded the wrong side and ended-up removing and flipping the top the correct direction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching the cabinets with 1/4" bolts. I didn't have enough room to drill the holes in the top left cabinet so I had to remove the side. I should have clamped the sides together earlier and drilled the holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching the bottom brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workstations bolted together and wheels attached.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workstation with table saw and drawers. The table saw will have to be raised about 1/2" to be even with the tops, which are just sitting there in this picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I attached the back and rolled it away for the evening. I'll have to remove the one back piece to cut the dust collection holes for the router and downdraft table. I still need to trim, laminate, and attach the tops, as well as the door and drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of work, but it's starting to come together. It is solid as a rock and I was able to sit in the middle section without any flexing. So far, I am pleased.


Very interesting


----------



## toddc

gwurst said:


> *Construction is moving along..*
> 
> Lots of pictures, so I'll keep the text to a minimum:
> 
> I started by putting the center cabinet together. The holes are too small for a drill driver, so I had to get creative with installing the pocket screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went ahead and added the drawer slides before the top went on. A piece of 1/2" MDF makes a perfect spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the center cabinet with drawers sans top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then moved on to the right side cabinet and started attaching the pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A quick shot of the left and center cabinet sitting next to each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Right cabinet with dust collection box and cutouts for router and router fence bolts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching top to center cabinet after adding dust collection elbow for saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adding wood edge banding to the cabinets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All cabinets sitting next to each other waiting for attachment. If you notice the right side cabinet is backwards. I edge banded the wrong side and ended-up removing and flipping the top the correct direction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching the cabinets with 1/4" bolts. I didn't have enough room to drill the holes in the top left cabinet so I had to remove the side. I should have clamped the sides together earlier and drilled the holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching the bottom brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workstations bolted together and wheels attached.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workstation with table saw and drawers. The table saw will have to be raised about 1/2" to be even with the tops, which are just sitting there in this picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I attached the back and rolled it away for the evening. I'll have to remove the one back piece to cut the dust collection holes for the router and downdraft table. I still need to trim, laminate, and attach the tops, as well as the door and drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of work, but it's starting to come together. It is solid as a rock and I was able to sit in the middle section without any flexing. So far, I am pleased.


Great use of available space in a small shop! I love the progress photos. Anybody should be able to figure out the construction from that series of shots.


----------



## TrmptPlyr

gwurst said:


> *Construction is moving along..*
> 
> Lots of pictures, so I'll keep the text to a minimum:
> 
> I started by putting the center cabinet together. The holes are too small for a drill driver, so I had to get creative with installing the pocket screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went ahead and added the drawer slides before the top went on. A piece of 1/2" MDF makes a perfect spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the center cabinet with drawers sans top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then moved on to the right side cabinet and started attaching the pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A quick shot of the left and center cabinet sitting next to each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Right cabinet with dust collection box and cutouts for router and router fence bolts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching top to center cabinet after adding dust collection elbow for saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adding wood edge banding to the cabinets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All cabinets sitting next to each other waiting for attachment. If you notice the right side cabinet is backwards. I edge banded the wrong side and ended-up removing and flipping the top the correct direction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching the cabinets with 1/4" bolts. I didn't have enough room to drill the holes in the top left cabinet so I had to remove the side. I should have clamped the sides together earlier and drilled the holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching the bottom brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workstations bolted together and wheels attached.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workstation with table saw and drawers. The table saw will have to be raised about 1/2" to be even with the tops, which are just sitting there in this picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I attached the back and rolled it away for the evening. I'll have to remove the one back piece to cut the dust collection holes for the router and downdraft table. I still need to trim, laminate, and attach the tops, as well as the door and drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of work, but it's starting to come together. It is solid as a rock and I was able to sit in the middle section without any flexing. So far, I am pleased.


I've not followed this series closely and it took till the tenth picture for me to realize I was seeing a real version of the sketchup model I posted a comment on a while back… ;-) Great construction photos. It looks like you overcame all the little set backs quite well. The mark of a craftsman  Lucky you discovered the upside down case prior to knocking out the side panel and drilling holes…


----------



## Partridge

gwurst said:


> *Construction is moving along..*
> 
> Lots of pictures, so I'll keep the text to a minimum:
> 
> I started by putting the center cabinet together. The holes are too small for a drill driver, so I had to get creative with installing the pocket screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went ahead and added the drawer slides before the top went on. A piece of 1/2" MDF makes a perfect spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the center cabinet with drawers sans top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then moved on to the right side cabinet and started attaching the pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A quick shot of the left and center cabinet sitting next to each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Right cabinet with dust collection box and cutouts for router and router fence bolts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching top to center cabinet after adding dust collection elbow for saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adding wood edge banding to the cabinets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All cabinets sitting next to each other waiting for attachment. If you notice the right side cabinet is backwards. I edge banded the wrong side and ended-up removing and flipping the top the correct direction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching the cabinets with 1/4" bolts. I didn't have enough room to drill the holes in the top left cabinet so I had to remove the side. I should have clamped the sides together earlier and drilled the holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching the bottom brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workstations bolted together and wheels attached.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workstation with table saw and drawers. The table saw will have to be raised about 1/2" to be even with the tops, which are just sitting there in this picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I attached the back and rolled it away for the evening. I'll have to remove the one back piece to cut the dust collection holes for the router and downdraft table. I still need to trim, laminate, and attach the tops, as well as the door and drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of work, but it's starting to come together. It is solid as a rock and I was able to sit in the middle section without any flexing. So far, I am pleased.


now where is the stool going


----------



## gator9t9

gwurst said:


> *Construction is moving along..*
> 
> Lots of pictures, so I'll keep the text to a minimum:
> 
> I started by putting the center cabinet together. The holes are too small for a drill driver, so I had to get creative with installing the pocket screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went ahead and added the drawer slides before the top went on. A piece of 1/2" MDF makes a perfect spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the center cabinet with drawers sans top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then moved on to the right side cabinet and started attaching the pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A quick shot of the left and center cabinet sitting next to each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Right cabinet with dust collection box and cutouts for router and router fence bolts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching top to center cabinet after adding dust collection elbow for saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adding wood edge banding to the cabinets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All cabinets sitting next to each other waiting for attachment. If you notice the right side cabinet is backwards. I edge banded the wrong side and ended-up removing and flipping the top the correct direction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching the cabinets with 1/4" bolts. I didn't have enough room to drill the holes in the top left cabinet so I had to remove the side. I should have clamped the sides together earlier and drilled the holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching the bottom brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workstations bolted together and wheels attached.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workstation with table saw and drawers. The table saw will have to be raised about 1/2" to be even with the tops, which are just sitting there in this picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I attached the back and rolled it away for the evening. I'll have to remove the one back piece to cut the dust collection holes for the router and downdraft table. I still need to trim, laminate, and attach the tops, as well as the door and drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of work, but it's starting to come together. It is solid as a rock and I was able to sit in the middle section without any flexing. So far, I am pleased.


oh my .. you are a craftsman yes…..what a nice table. Great pix and oh wow ….good job …
I am never ceasing to be amazed at the quality of LumberJocks ..

thank you for posting


----------



## thetimberkid

gwurst said:


> *Construction is moving along..*
> 
> Lots of pictures, so I'll keep the text to a minimum:
> 
> I started by putting the center cabinet together. The holes are too small for a drill driver, so I had to get creative with installing the pocket screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went ahead and added the drawer slides before the top went on. A piece of 1/2" MDF makes a perfect spacer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the center cabinet with drawers sans top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then moved on to the right side cabinet and started attaching the pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A quick shot of the left and center cabinet sitting next to each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Right cabinet with dust collection box and cutouts for router and router fence bolts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching top to center cabinet after adding dust collection elbow for saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adding wood edge banding to the cabinets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All cabinets sitting next to each other waiting for attachment. If you notice the right side cabinet is backwards. I edge banded the wrong side and ended-up removing and flipping the top the correct direction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching the cabinets with 1/4" bolts. I didn't have enough room to drill the holes in the top left cabinet so I had to remove the side. I should have clamped the sides together earlier and drilled the holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching the bottom brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workstations bolted together and wheels attached.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workstation with table saw and drawers. The table saw will have to be raised about 1/2" to be even with the tops, which are just sitting there in this picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I attached the back and rolled it away for the evening. I'll have to remove the one back piece to cut the dust collection holes for the router and downdraft table. I still need to trim, laminate, and attach the tops, as well as the door and drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of work, but it's starting to come together. It is solid as a rock and I was able to sit in the middle section without any flexing. So far, I am pleased.


Great job!

Thanks for the post

Callum


----------



## gwurst

*Top's done - finally!*

I got to work on the bench a little this weekend, so here's a few pics:

I took the back off and attached the dust collection for the router table and downdraft dust collector.










I then moved-on to laminating the top pieces. You really need good ventilation with that contact glue!










Using a router insert template I bought (worth every penny) I routed-out the hole for the insert. Hogging-out MDF with a 1/2" straight bit makes a serious mess! I had dust everywhere. I test-fit the top again and it's starting to come together.










I then took the top downstairs to the drill press and drilled the holes for the downdraft dust collector. It takes a *LONG* time to drill and chamfer 160 3/16" holes!










One of the most time consuming parts was routing the slots for the router fence. I took the fence off a router table I had in the basement and matched the slots. Basically, 5/8" on the bottom 7/16" deep and then 1/4" on the top through. It took a lot of careful measuring and fence placement, but it came-out perfect and I am pleased.










I hooked-up the vacuum to the downdraft dust port and you can really feel the suction through the holes, which was a concern of mine since I just liked the idea of it and decided to build it without any real testing. I have a ton of laminate left, so I think I'm going to laminate the door fronts. I need to shim the table saw 3/8" to be even with the top, get the door fronts on, and attach the power switch and outlets for the saw and router and I'll pretty-much be done.


----------



## teenagewoodworker

gwurst said:


> *Top's done - finally!*
> 
> I got to work on the bench a little this weekend, so here's a few pics:
> 
> I took the back off and attached the dust collection for the router table and downdraft dust collector.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then moved-on to laminating the top pieces. You really need good ventilation with that contact glue!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a router insert template I bought (worth every penny) I routed-out the hole for the insert. Hogging-out MDF with a 1/2" straight bit makes a serious mess! I had dust everywhere. I test-fit the top again and it's starting to come together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then took the top downstairs to the drill press and drilled the holes for the downdraft dust collector. It takes a *LONG* time to drill and chamfer 160 3/16" holes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the most time consuming parts was routing the slots for the router fence. I took the fence off a router table I had in the basement and matched the slots. Basically, 5/8" on the bottom 7/16" deep and then 1/4" on the top through. It took a lot of careful measuring and fence placement, but it came-out perfect and I am pleased.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hooked-up the vacuum to the downdraft dust port and you can really feel the suction through the holes, which was a concern of mine since I just liked the idea of it and decided to build it without any real testing. I have a ton of laminate left, so I think I'm going to laminate the door fronts. I need to shim the table saw 3/8" to be even with the top, get the door fronts on, and attach the power switch and outlets for the saw and router and I'll pretty-much be done.


this is coming along great. its good that the downdraft table works too. i am planning on building something like this when i get my table saw too, its good to see it be build first though. thanks for the post.

p.s. thats a pretty nice car you've got there too,  !


----------



## gwurst

gwurst said:


> *Top's done - finally!*
> 
> I got to work on the bench a little this weekend, so here's a few pics:
> 
> I took the back off and attached the dust collection for the router table and downdraft dust collector.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then moved-on to laminating the top pieces. You really need good ventilation with that contact glue!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a router insert template I bought (worth every penny) I routed-out the hole for the insert. Hogging-out MDF with a 1/2" straight bit makes a serious mess! I had dust everywhere. I test-fit the top again and it's starting to come together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then took the top downstairs to the drill press and drilled the holes for the downdraft dust collector. It takes a *LONG* time to drill and chamfer 160 3/16" holes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the most time consuming parts was routing the slots for the router fence. I took the fence off a router table I had in the basement and matched the slots. Basically, 5/8" on the bottom 7/16" deep and then 1/4" on the top through. It took a lot of careful measuring and fence placement, but it came-out perfect and I am pleased.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hooked-up the vacuum to the downdraft dust port and you can really feel the suction through the holes, which was a concern of mine since I just liked the idea of it and decided to build it without any real testing. I have a ton of laminate left, so I think I'm going to laminate the door fronts. I need to shim the table saw 3/8" to be even with the top, get the door fronts on, and attach the power switch and outlets for the saw and router and I'll pretty-much be done.


Yeah, the Corvette was "pre-child". I have to hold onto it since if I sell it I won't be getting another one for a very long time.  It was covered in MDF dust after that and I had to wash it. It was filthy from driving in the rain anyway, so it needed the bath.


----------



## teenagewoodworker

gwurst said:


> *Top's done - finally!*
> 
> I got to work on the bench a little this weekend, so here's a few pics:
> 
> I took the back off and attached the dust collection for the router table and downdraft dust collector.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then moved-on to laminating the top pieces. You really need good ventilation with that contact glue!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a router insert template I bought (worth every penny) I routed-out the hole for the insert. Hogging-out MDF with a 1/2" straight bit makes a serious mess! I had dust everywhere. I test-fit the top again and it's starting to come together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then took the top downstairs to the drill press and drilled the holes for the downdraft dust collector. It takes a *LONG* time to drill and chamfer 160 3/16" holes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the most time consuming parts was routing the slots for the router fence. I took the fence off a router table I had in the basement and matched the slots. Basically, 5/8" on the bottom 7/16" deep and then 1/4" on the top through. It took a lot of careful measuring and fence placement, but it came-out perfect and I am pleased.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hooked-up the vacuum to the downdraft dust port and you can really feel the suction through the holes, which was a concern of mine since I just liked the idea of it and decided to build it without any real testing. I have a ton of laminate left, so I think I'm going to laminate the door fronts. I need to shim the table saw 3/8" to be even with the top, get the door fronts on, and attach the power switch and outlets for the saw and router and I'll pretty-much be done.


well i guess it being covered in MDF must have been a good thing in a way, now its washed and it must look really purdy now!


----------



## sbryan55

gwurst said:


> *Top's done - finally!*
> 
> I got to work on the bench a little this weekend, so here's a few pics:
> 
> I took the back off and attached the dust collection for the router table and downdraft dust collector.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then moved-on to laminating the top pieces. You really need good ventilation with that contact glue!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a router insert template I bought (worth every penny) I routed-out the hole for the insert. Hogging-out MDF with a 1/2" straight bit makes a serious mess! I had dust everywhere. I test-fit the top again and it's starting to come together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then took the top downstairs to the drill press and drilled the holes for the downdraft dust collector. It takes a *LONG* time to drill and chamfer 160 3/16" holes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the most time consuming parts was routing the slots for the router fence. I took the fence off a router table I had in the basement and matched the slots.  Basically, 5/8" on the bottom 7/16" deep and then 1/4" on the top through. It took a lot of careful measuring and fence placement, but it came-out perfect and I am pleased.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hooked-up the vacuum to the downdraft dust port and you can really feel the suction through the holes, which was a concern of mine since I just liked the idea of it and decided to build it without any real testing. I have a ton of laminate left, so I think I'm going to laminate the door fronts. I need to shim the table saw 3/8" to be even with the top, get the door fronts on, and attach the power switch and outlets for the saw and router and I'll pretty-much be done.


This is coming along pretty good so far.


----------



## GaryK

gwurst said:


> *Top's done - finally!*
> 
> I got to work on the bench a little this weekend, so here's a few pics:
> 
> I took the back off and attached the dust collection for the router table and downdraft dust collector.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then moved-on to laminating the top pieces. You really need good ventilation with that contact glue!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a router insert template I bought (worth every penny) I routed-out the hole for the insert. Hogging-out MDF with a 1/2" straight bit makes a serious mess! I had dust everywhere. I test-fit the top again and it's starting to come together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then took the top downstairs to the drill press and drilled the holes for the downdraft dust collector. It takes a *LONG* time to drill and chamfer 160 3/16" holes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the most time consuming parts was routing the slots for the router fence. I took the fence off a router table I had in the basement and matched the slots. Basically, 5/8" on the bottom 7/16" deep and then 1/4" on the top through. It took a lot of careful measuring and fence placement, but it came-out perfect and I am pleased.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hooked-up the vacuum to the downdraft dust port and you can really feel the suction through the holes, which was a concern of mine since I just liked the idea of it and decided to build it without any real testing. I have a ton of laminate left, so I think I'm going to laminate the door fronts. I need to shim the table saw 3/8" to be even with the top, get the door fronts on, and attach the power switch and outlets for the saw and router and I'll pretty-much be done.


Looks great so far!


----------



## Freddo

gwurst said:


> *Top's done - finally!*
> 
> I got to work on the bench a little this weekend, so here's a few pics:
> 
> I took the back off and attached the dust collection for the router table and downdraft dust collector.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then moved-on to laminating the top pieces. You really need good ventilation with that contact glue!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a router insert template I bought (worth every penny) I routed-out the hole for the insert. Hogging-out MDF with a 1/2" straight bit makes a serious mess! I had dust everywhere. I test-fit the top again and it's starting to come together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then took the top downstairs to the drill press and drilled the holes for the downdraft dust collector. It takes a *LONG* time to drill and chamfer 160 3/16" holes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the most time consuming parts was routing the slots for the router fence. I took the fence off a router table I had in the basement and matched the slots. Basically, 5/8" on the bottom 7/16" deep and then 1/4" on the top through. It took a lot of careful measuring and fence placement, but it came-out perfect and I am pleased.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hooked-up the vacuum to the downdraft dust port and you can really feel the suction through the holes, which was a concern of mine since I just liked the idea of it and decided to build it without any real testing. I have a ton of laminate left, so I think I'm going to laminate the door fronts. I need to shim the table saw 3/8" to be even with the top, get the door fronts on, and attach the power switch and outlets for the saw and router and I'll pretty-much be done.


Awesome job!! I've got a new cabinet designed (90% done) for myself but have a question for you. In my very small shop, my dust collection is nothing more than a Shop-Vac. How well does your design work for collecting dust and chips from under your table saw? I have a Delta Contactor's saw and my current cabinet just collects the dust under the saw behind a door (see my workshop page). My seven year old's FAVORITE thing is to clean that out for me; he loves it. I hate to dissapoint him but I'd like a better solution.


----------



## gwurst

gwurst said:


> *Top's done - finally!*
> 
> I got to work on the bench a little this weekend, so here's a few pics:
> 
> I took the back off and attached the dust collection for the router table and downdraft dust collector.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then moved-on to laminating the top pieces. You really need good ventilation with that contact glue!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a router insert template I bought (worth every penny) I routed-out the hole for the insert. Hogging-out MDF with a 1/2" straight bit makes a serious mess! I had dust everywhere. I test-fit the top again and it's starting to come together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then took the top downstairs to the drill press and drilled the holes for the downdraft dust collector. It takes a *LONG* time to drill and chamfer 160 3/16" holes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the most time consuming parts was routing the slots for the router fence. I took the fence off a router table I had in the basement and matched the slots. Basically, 5/8" on the bottom 7/16" deep and then 1/4" on the top through. It took a lot of careful measuring and fence placement, but it came-out perfect and I am pleased.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hooked-up the vacuum to the downdraft dust port and you can really feel the suction through the holes, which was a concern of mine since I just liked the idea of it and decided to build it without any real testing. I have a ton of laminate left, so I think I'm going to laminate the door fronts. I need to shim the table saw 3/8" to be even with the top, get the door fronts on, and attach the power switch and outlets for the saw and router and I'll pretty-much be done.


If your saw is anything like mine, you have that giant hole at the rear that blows sawdust everywhere and prevent any real vacuum from being developed. You need to seal-up the hole around the saw as much as possible. If you look at the last section of this blog you will see how I sealed my saw. With the saw sealed as best as possible, it does a pretty-good job of sucking-up the dust and I'm just using a ShopVac style vacuum as well. A little dust collects in the corners of the saw base, but that's about it.


----------



## Freddo

gwurst said:


> *Top's done - finally!*
> 
> I got to work on the bench a little this weekend, so here's a few pics:
> 
> I took the back off and attached the dust collection for the router table and downdraft dust collector.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then moved-on to laminating the top pieces. You really need good ventilation with that contact glue!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a router insert template I bought (worth every penny) I routed-out the hole for the insert. Hogging-out MDF with a 1/2" straight bit makes a serious mess! I had dust everywhere. I test-fit the top again and it's starting to come together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then took the top downstairs to the drill press and drilled the holes for the downdraft dust collector. It takes a *LONG* time to drill and chamfer 160 3/16" holes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the most time consuming parts was routing the slots for the router fence. I took the fence off a router table I had in the basement and matched the slots. Basically, 5/8" on the bottom 7/16" deep and then 1/4" on the top through. It took a lot of careful measuring and fence placement, but it came-out perfect and I am pleased.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hooked-up the vacuum to the downdraft dust port and you can really feel the suction through the holes, which was a concern of mine since I just liked the idea of it and decided to build it without any real testing. I have a ton of laminate left, so I think I'm going to laminate the door fronts. I need to shim the table saw 3/8" to be even with the top, get the door fronts on, and attach the power switch and outlets for the saw and router and I'll pretty-much be done.


Thanks for the relpy. I recall an article in a FineWoodworking magazine issue (?) that was in regard to covering the saw back like the one I have. I'll dig it up and design it into project. BTW - I did review all of your photos; thanks for all of the detail and sharing so freely!


----------



## gwurst

*Finishing up*

Here is the last segment on my mobile workstation. Overall I'm very pleased with it, but I would definitely make some changes if I had to do it again (due mainly to my screw-ups, not a problem with the design).

First, as many of you know a typical contractor saw has a large number of gaping holes that make dust collection difficult. I used some 1/8" hardboard and magnetic vent cover sheets to block most of the holes. The back's attached with velcro so it can be removed if I need to make any bevel cuts. Since 99% of my table saw cuts are straight cuts it shouldn't be a big deal. This definitely made a difference and now most of the dust gets sucked into the vacuum instead of blown across the garage. You can also see the power switch I took from my router table in the basement. I use it for both the table saw and the router (of course, you probably want to turn whatever device you're not currently using off).


















As I mentioned before, I had a ton of laminate left so I went ahead and laminated the door fronts.










Here's the router attached to the insert and a hole in the back for the power cable.










Attaching the hinges to the door fronts. Let me take a moment here to mention what a poor choice these hinges were for the doors. They really need more than 3/4" to attach to the frame, since it leaves a small gap by the hinges. I had to cut the doors down to fit. They also offer about zero adjustability. If this wasn't shop furniture I'd have gone with an inset adjustable hinge and redone the doors.










Doors and drawer fronts attached. I attached the drawer fronts with double sided poster tape and then drilled holes in the back and screwed them together. I also cut down all the drawer fronts since my initial design had everything pretty-much gapless and I didn't really want to try to achieve those tolerances. Here you can also see I've leveled the table saw with the top. I used a piece of 1/8" hardboard and 1/4" oak ply along with a washer or two to shim the table saw flush.










Here's one of my screw-ups. I failed to take into account the fact the fence rails sit lower than the top and block the top doors and drawer. I cut the doors and drawer to clear the fence and attached the cutoff piece with magnetic catches to maintain a somewhat consistent look. I cut the pieces on the bandsaw to minimize the curf. It worked-out ok, but I'd recommend measuring better in the future. 










Here are some pics of the finished workstation. I got the pulls at Lowe's for $.28 each on clearance, and they happen to match the hinges on the doors.










Here's the back. The extension top was another oops of mine. I didn't take it into account when I initially designed the workstation, so it would initially be too long to fit under the outfeed table with it attached. I had to remove the two triangle braces and redrill the hinges to allow it to sit flush to the side. I then attached a triangle brace to the back that flips forward and holds-up the top. It works pretty-well, but the extension can't maintain a ton of weight. It shouldn't be a problem with what I use it for.










A shot of the router table in use.










Workstation stored under the outfeed table and out of the way.










Overall, a great project and I'm glad I built it. Here are the Sketchup files and material list in an Excel file:

Cutting Diagram

Dimensions

Workstation

Material List

A couple notes:

1. The design is setup for 3/4" material. If you use 3/4" ply for the base like I did you'll need to adjust the measurements for the 11/16" material for the base.

2. Pocket screws aren't enough to hold the 2×4 bottom together. The material is just too soft. I had to glue and clamp it as well as use pocket screws. That is the only thing glued on this workstation (except for the laminate).

3. You may want to cut-down the drawer fronts and doors since I left no gap in the design.

4. Of course, you'll probably need to resize everything to fit your particular circumstances.

If you have any questions or comments let me know.

Thanks,

Greg


----------



## sbryan55

gwurst said:


> *Finishing up*
> 
> Here is the last segment on my mobile workstation. Overall I'm very pleased with it, but I would definitely make some changes if I had to do it again (due mainly to my screw-ups, not a problem with the design).
> 
> First, as many of you know a typical contractor saw has a large number of gaping holes that make dust collection difficult. I used some 1/8" hardboard and magnetic vent cover sheets to block most of the holes. The back's attached with velcro so it can be removed if I need to make any bevel cuts. Since 99% of my table saw cuts are straight cuts it shouldn't be a big deal. This definitely made a difference and now most of the dust gets sucked into the vacuum instead of blown across the garage. You can also see the power switch I took from my router table in the basement. I use it for both the table saw and the router (of course, you probably want to turn whatever device you're not currently using off).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned before, I had a ton of laminate left so I went ahead and laminated the door fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the router attached to the insert and a hole in the back for the power cable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching the hinges to the door fronts. Let me take a moment here to mention what a poor choice these hinges were for the doors. They really need more than 3/4" to attach to the frame, since it leaves a small gap by the hinges. I had to cut the doors down to fit. They also offer about zero adjustability. If this wasn't shop furniture I'd have gone with an inset adjustable hinge and redone the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doors and drawer fronts attached. I attached the drawer fronts with double sided poster tape and then drilled holes in the back and screwed them together. I also cut down all the drawer fronts since my initial design had everything pretty-much gapless and I didn't really want to try to achieve those tolerances. Here you can also see I've leveled the table saw with the top. I used a piece of 1/8" hardboard and 1/4" oak ply along with a washer or two to shim the table saw flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's one of my screw-ups. I failed to take into account the fact the fence rails sit lower than the top and block the top doors and drawer. I cut the doors and drawer to clear the fence and attached the cutoff piece with magnetic catches to maintain a somewhat consistent look. I cut the pieces on the bandsaw to minimize the curf. It worked-out ok, but I'd recommend measuring better in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pics of the finished workstation. I got the pulls at Lowe's for $.28 each on clearance, and they happen to match the hinges on the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the back. The extension top was another oops of mine. I didn't take it into account when I initially designed the workstation, so it would initially be too long to fit under the outfeed table with it attached. I had to remove the two triangle braces and redrill the hinges to allow it to sit flush to the side. I then attached a triangle brace to the back that flips forward and holds-up the top. It works pretty-well, but the extension can't maintain a ton of weight. It shouldn't be a problem with what I use it for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A shot of the router table in use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workstation stored under the outfeed table and out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall, a great project and I'm glad I built it. Here are the Sketchup files and material list in an Excel file:
> 
> Cutting Diagram
> 
> Dimensions
> 
> Workstation
> 
> Material List
> 
> A couple notes:
> 
> 1. The design is setup for 3/4" material. If you use 3/4" ply for the base like I did you'll need to adjust the measurements for the 11/16" material for the base.
> 
> 2. Pocket screws aren't enough to hold the 2×4 bottom together. The material is just too soft. I had to glue and clamp it as well as use pocket screws. That is the only thing glued on this workstation (except for the laminate).
> 
> 3. You may want to cut-down the drawer fronts and doors since I left no gap in the design.
> 
> 4. Of course, you'll probably need to resize everything to fit your particular circumstances.
> 
> If you have any questions or comments let me know.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Greg


Nice job, Greg. You have added a nice piece cabinet to your shop that combines a number of functions. I particularly like the addition of the downdraft table. I am looking into either (1) replacing my saw or (2) adding something similar to this. My Craftsman saw just isn't as functional as I would like it to be. Something like this would certainly improve it.

Well done and thanks for the post.


----------



## JohnGray

gwurst said:


> *Finishing up*
> 
> Here is the last segment on my mobile workstation. Overall I'm very pleased with it, but I would definitely make some changes if I had to do it again (due mainly to my screw-ups, not a problem with the design).
> 
> First, as many of you know a typical contractor saw has a large number of gaping holes that make dust collection difficult. I used some 1/8" hardboard and magnetic vent cover sheets to block most of the holes. The back's attached with velcro so it can be removed if I need to make any bevel cuts. Since 99% of my table saw cuts are straight cuts it shouldn't be a big deal. This definitely made a difference and now most of the dust gets sucked into the vacuum instead of blown across the garage. You can also see the power switch I took from my router table in the basement. I use it for both the table saw and the router (of course, you probably want to turn whatever device you're not currently using off).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned before, I had a ton of laminate left so I went ahead and laminated the door fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the router attached to the insert and a hole in the back for the power cable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching the hinges to the door fronts. Let me take a moment here to mention what a poor choice these hinges were for the doors. They really need more than 3/4" to attach to the frame, since it leaves a small gap by the hinges. I had to cut the doors down to fit. They also offer about zero adjustability. If this wasn't shop furniture I'd have gone with an inset adjustable hinge and redone the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doors and drawer fronts attached. I attached the drawer fronts with double sided poster tape and then drilled holes in the back and screwed them together. I also cut down all the drawer fronts since my initial design had everything pretty-much gapless and I didn't really want to try to achieve those tolerances. Here you can also see I've leveled the table saw with the top. I used a piece of 1/8" hardboard and 1/4" oak ply along with a washer or two to shim the table saw flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's one of my screw-ups. I failed to take into account the fact the fence rails sit lower than the top and block the top doors and drawer. I cut the doors and drawer to clear the fence and attached the cutoff piece with magnetic catches to maintain a somewhat consistent look. I cut the pieces on the bandsaw to minimize the curf. It worked-out ok, but I'd recommend measuring better in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pics of the finished workstation. I got the pulls at Lowe's for $.28 each on clearance, and they happen to match the hinges on the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the back. The extension top was another oops of mine. I didn't take it into account when I initially designed the workstation, so it would initially be too long to fit under the outfeed table with it attached. I had to remove the two triangle braces and redrill the hinges to allow it to sit flush to the side. I then attached a triangle brace to the back that flips forward and holds-up the top. It works pretty-well, but the extension can't maintain a ton of weight. It shouldn't be a problem with what I use it for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A shot of the router table in use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workstation stored under the outfeed table and out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall, a great project and I'm glad I built it. Here are the Sketchup files and material list in an Excel file:
> 
> Cutting Diagram
> 
> Dimensions
> 
> Workstation
> 
> Material List
> 
> A couple notes:
> 
> 1. The design is setup for 3/4" material. If you use 3/4" ply for the base like I did you'll need to adjust the measurements for the 11/16" material for the base.
> 
> 2. Pocket screws aren't enough to hold the 2×4 bottom together. The material is just too soft. I had to glue and clamp it as well as use pocket screws. That is the only thing glued on this workstation (except for the laminate).
> 
> 3. You may want to cut-down the drawer fronts and doors since I left no gap in the design.
> 
> 4. Of course, you'll probably need to resize everything to fit your particular circumstances.
> 
> If you have any questions or comments let me know.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Greg


I'm impressed!!! GREAT idea and job. Keep up the good work!!!!!
PS - I can't get your cutting diagram, materials list….ect. It opens the link but no "pictures".


----------



## gwurst

gwurst said:


> *Finishing up*
> 
> Here is the last segment on my mobile workstation. Overall I'm very pleased with it, but I would definitely make some changes if I had to do it again (due mainly to my screw-ups, not a problem with the design).
> 
> First, as many of you know a typical contractor saw has a large number of gaping holes that make dust collection difficult. I used some 1/8" hardboard and magnetic vent cover sheets to block most of the holes. The back's attached with velcro so it can be removed if I need to make any bevel cuts. Since 99% of my table saw cuts are straight cuts it shouldn't be a big deal. This definitely made a difference and now most of the dust gets sucked into the vacuum instead of blown across the garage. You can also see the power switch I took from my router table in the basement. I use it for both the table saw and the router (of course, you probably want to turn whatever device you're not currently using off).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned before, I had a ton of laminate left so I went ahead and laminated the door fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the router attached to the insert and a hole in the back for the power cable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching the hinges to the door fronts. Let me take a moment here to mention what a poor choice these hinges were for the doors. They really need more than 3/4" to attach to the frame, since it leaves a small gap by the hinges. I had to cut the doors down to fit. They also offer about zero adjustability. If this wasn't shop furniture I'd have gone with an inset adjustable hinge and redone the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doors and drawer fronts attached. I attached the drawer fronts with double sided poster tape and then drilled holes in the back and screwed them together. I also cut down all the drawer fronts since my initial design had everything pretty-much gapless and I didn't really want to try to achieve those tolerances. Here you can also see I've leveled the table saw with the top. I used a piece of 1/8" hardboard and 1/4" oak ply along with a washer or two to shim the table saw flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's one of my screw-ups. I failed to take into account the fact the fence rails sit lower than the top and block the top doors and drawer. I cut the doors and drawer to clear the fence and attached the cutoff piece with magnetic catches to maintain a somewhat consistent look. I cut the pieces on the bandsaw to minimize the curf. It worked-out ok, but I'd recommend measuring better in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pics of the finished workstation. I got the pulls at Lowe's for $.28 each on clearance, and they happen to match the hinges on the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the back. The extension top was another oops of mine. I didn't take it into account when I initially designed the workstation, so it would initially be too long to fit under the outfeed table with it attached. I had to remove the two triangle braces and redrill the hinges to allow it to sit flush to the side. I then attached a triangle brace to the back that flips forward and holds-up the top. It works pretty-well, but the extension can't maintain a ton of weight. It shouldn't be a problem with what I use it for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A shot of the router table in use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workstation stored under the outfeed table and out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall, a great project and I'm glad I built it. Here are the Sketchup files and material list in an Excel file:
> 
> Cutting Diagram
> 
> Dimensions
> 
> Workstation
> 
> Material List
> 
> A couple notes:
> 
> 1. The design is setup for 3/4" material. If you use 3/4" ply for the base like I did you'll need to adjust the measurements for the 11/16" material for the base.
> 
> 2. Pocket screws aren't enough to hold the 2×4 bottom together. The material is just too soft. I had to glue and clamp it as well as use pocket screws. That is the only thing glued on this workstation (except for the laminate).
> 
> 3. You may want to cut-down the drawer fronts and doors since I left no gap in the design.
> 
> 4. Of course, you'll probably need to resize everything to fit your particular circumstances.
> 
> If you have any questions or comments let me know.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Greg


For the files, click the download link above the file name at the Windows Skydrive site.


----------



## teenagewoodworker

gwurst said:


> *Finishing up*
> 
> Here is the last segment on my mobile workstation. Overall I'm very pleased with it, but I would definitely make some changes if I had to do it again (due mainly to my screw-ups, not a problem with the design).
> 
> First, as many of you know a typical contractor saw has a large number of gaping holes that make dust collection difficult. I used some 1/8" hardboard and magnetic vent cover sheets to block most of the holes. The back's attached with velcro so it can be removed if I need to make any bevel cuts. Since 99% of my table saw cuts are straight cuts it shouldn't be a big deal. This definitely made a difference and now most of the dust gets sucked into the vacuum instead of blown across the garage. You can also see the power switch I took from my router table in the basement. I use it for both the table saw and the router (of course, you probably want to turn whatever device you're not currently using off).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned before, I had a ton of laminate left so I went ahead and laminated the door fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the router attached to the insert and a hole in the back for the power cable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching the hinges to the door fronts. Let me take a moment here to mention what a poor choice these hinges were for the doors. They really need more than 3/4" to attach to the frame, since it leaves a small gap by the hinges. I had to cut the doors down to fit. They also offer about zero adjustability. If this wasn't shop furniture I'd have gone with an inset adjustable hinge and redone the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doors and drawer fronts attached. I attached the drawer fronts with double sided poster tape and then drilled holes in the back and screwed them together. I also cut down all the drawer fronts since my initial design had everything pretty-much gapless and I didn't really want to try to achieve those tolerances. Here you can also see I've leveled the table saw with the top. I used a piece of 1/8" hardboard and 1/4" oak ply along with a washer or two to shim the table saw flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's one of my screw-ups. I failed to take into account the fact the fence rails sit lower than the top and block the top doors and drawer. I cut the doors and drawer to clear the fence and attached the cutoff piece with magnetic catches to maintain a somewhat consistent look. I cut the pieces on the bandsaw to minimize the curf. It worked-out ok, but I'd recommend measuring better in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pics of the finished workstation. I got the pulls at Lowe's for $.28 each on clearance, and they happen to match the hinges on the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the back. The extension top was another oops of mine. I didn't take it into account when I initially designed the workstation, so it would initially be too long to fit under the outfeed table with it attached. I had to remove the two triangle braces and redrill the hinges to allow it to sit flush to the side. I then attached a triangle brace to the back that flips forward and holds-up the top. It works pretty-well, but the extension can't maintain a ton of weight. It shouldn't be a problem with what I use it for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A shot of the router table in use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workstation stored under the outfeed table and out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall, a great project and I'm glad I built it. Here are the Sketchup files and material list in an Excel file:
> 
> Cutting Diagram
> 
> Dimensions
> 
> Workstation
> 
> Material List
> 
> A couple notes:
> 
> 1. The design is setup for 3/4" material. If you use 3/4" ply for the base like I did you'll need to adjust the measurements for the 11/16" material for the base.
> 
> 2. Pocket screws aren't enough to hold the 2×4 bottom together. The material is just too soft. I had to glue and clamp it as well as use pocket screws. That is the only thing glued on this workstation (except for the laminate).
> 
> 3. You may want to cut-down the drawer fronts and doors since I left no gap in the design.
> 
> 4. Of course, you'll probably need to resize everything to fit your particular circumstances.
> 
> If you have any questions or comments let me know.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Greg


this came out great. i think that i got some good ideas for mine! thanks for the post!


----------



## FatherHooligan

gwurst said:


> *Finishing up*
> 
> Here is the last segment on my mobile workstation. Overall I'm very pleased with it, but I would definitely make some changes if I had to do it again (due mainly to my screw-ups, not a problem with the design).
> 
> First, as many of you know a typical contractor saw has a large number of gaping holes that make dust collection difficult. I used some 1/8" hardboard and magnetic vent cover sheets to block most of the holes. The back's attached with velcro so it can be removed if I need to make any bevel cuts. Since 99% of my table saw cuts are straight cuts it shouldn't be a big deal. This definitely made a difference and now most of the dust gets sucked into the vacuum instead of blown across the garage. You can also see the power switch I took from my router table in the basement. I use it for both the table saw and the router (of course, you probably want to turn whatever device you're not currently using off).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned before, I had a ton of laminate left so I went ahead and laminated the door fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the router attached to the insert and a hole in the back for the power cable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching the hinges to the door fronts. Let me take a moment here to mention what a poor choice these hinges were for the doors. They really need more than 3/4" to attach to the frame, since it leaves a small gap by the hinges. I had to cut the doors down to fit. They also offer about zero adjustability. If this wasn't shop furniture I'd have gone with an inset adjustable hinge and redone the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doors and drawer fronts attached. I attached the drawer fronts with double sided poster tape and then drilled holes in the back and screwed them together. I also cut down all the drawer fronts since my initial design had everything pretty-much gapless and I didn't really want to try to achieve those tolerances. Here you can also see I've leveled the table saw with the top. I used a piece of 1/8" hardboard and 1/4" oak ply along with a washer or two to shim the table saw flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's one of my screw-ups. I failed to take into account the fact the fence rails sit lower than the top and block the top doors and drawer. I cut the doors and drawer to clear the fence and attached the cutoff piece with magnetic catches to maintain a somewhat consistent look. I cut the pieces on the bandsaw to minimize the curf. It worked-out ok, but I'd recommend measuring better in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pics of the finished workstation. I got the pulls at Lowe's for $.28 each on clearance, and they happen to match the hinges on the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the back. The extension top was another oops of mine. I didn't take it into account when I initially designed the workstation, so it would initially be too long to fit under the outfeed table with it attached. I had to remove the two triangle braces and redrill the hinges to allow it to sit flush to the side. I then attached a triangle brace to the back that flips forward and holds-up the top. It works pretty-well, but the extension can't maintain a ton of weight. It shouldn't be a problem with what I use it for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A shot of the router table in use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workstation stored under the outfeed table and out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall, a great project and I'm glad I built it. Here are the Sketchup files and material list in an Excel file:
> 
> Cutting Diagram
> 
> Dimensions
> 
> Workstation
> 
> Material List
> 
> A couple notes:
> 
> 1. The design is setup for 3/4" material. If you use 3/4" ply for the base like I did you'll need to adjust the measurements for the 11/16" material for the base.
> 
> 2. Pocket screws aren't enough to hold the 2×4 bottom together. The material is just too soft. I had to glue and clamp it as well as use pocket screws. That is the only thing glued on this workstation (except for the laminate).
> 
> 3. You may want to cut-down the drawer fronts and doors since I left no gap in the design.
> 
> 4. Of course, you'll probably need to resize everything to fit your particular circumstances.
> 
> If you have any questions or comments let me know.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Greg


Thank you very much for an incredible post! A great project and very useful SU Excel files, thanks! A job well done.


----------



## hasbeen99

gwurst said:


> *Finishing up*
> 
> Here is the last segment on my mobile workstation. Overall I'm very pleased with it, but I would definitely make some changes if I had to do it again (due mainly to my screw-ups, not a problem with the design).
> 
> First, as many of you know a typical contractor saw has a large number of gaping holes that make dust collection difficult. I used some 1/8" hardboard and magnetic vent cover sheets to block most of the holes. The back's attached with velcro so it can be removed if I need to make any bevel cuts. Since 99% of my table saw cuts are straight cuts it shouldn't be a big deal. This definitely made a difference and now most of the dust gets sucked into the vacuum instead of blown across the garage. You can also see the power switch I took from my router table in the basement. I use it for both the table saw and the router (of course, you probably want to turn whatever device you're not currently using off).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned before, I had a ton of laminate left so I went ahead and laminated the door fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the router attached to the insert and a hole in the back for the power cable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching the hinges to the door fronts. Let me take a moment here to mention what a poor choice these hinges were for the doors. They really need more than 3/4" to attach to the frame, since it leaves a small gap by the hinges. I had to cut the doors down to fit. They also offer about zero adjustability. If this wasn't shop furniture I'd have gone with an inset adjustable hinge and redone the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doors and drawer fronts attached. I attached the drawer fronts with double sided poster tape and then drilled holes in the back and screwed them together. I also cut down all the drawer fronts since my initial design had everything pretty-much gapless and I didn't really want to try to achieve those tolerances. Here you can also see I've leveled the table saw with the top. I used a piece of 1/8" hardboard and 1/4" oak ply along with a washer or two to shim the table saw flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's one of my screw-ups. I failed to take into account the fact the fence rails sit lower than the top and block the top doors and drawer. I cut the doors and drawer to clear the fence and attached the cutoff piece with magnetic catches to maintain a somewhat consistent look. I cut the pieces on the bandsaw to minimize the curf. It worked-out ok, but I'd recommend measuring better in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pics of the finished workstation. I got the pulls at Lowe's for $.28 each on clearance, and they happen to match the hinges on the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the back. The extension top was another oops of mine. I didn't take it into account when I initially designed the workstation, so it would initially be too long to fit under the outfeed table with it attached. I had to remove the two triangle braces and redrill the hinges to allow it to sit flush to the side. I then attached a triangle brace to the back that flips forward and holds-up the top. It works pretty-well, but the extension can't maintain a ton of weight. It shouldn't be a problem with what I use it for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A shot of the router table in use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workstation stored under the outfeed table and out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall, a great project and I'm glad I built it. Here are the Sketchup files and material list in an Excel file:
> 
> Cutting Diagram
> 
> Dimensions
> 
> Workstation
> 
> Material List
> 
> A couple notes:
> 
> 1. The design is setup for 3/4" material. If you use 3/4" ply for the base like I did you'll need to adjust the measurements for the 11/16" material for the base.
> 
> 2. Pocket screws aren't enough to hold the 2×4 bottom together. The material is just too soft. I had to glue and clamp it as well as use pocket screws. That is the only thing glued on this workstation (except for the laminate).
> 
> 3. You may want to cut-down the drawer fronts and doors since I left no gap in the design.
> 
> 4. Of course, you'll probably need to resize everything to fit your particular circumstances.
> 
> If you have any questions or comments let me know.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Greg


WOW. Thank you so much! A table saw/router cabinet is definitely in my not-too-distant future, and I really appreciate your design and willingness to share. Awesome job!


----------



## PurpLev

gwurst said:


> *Finishing up*
> 
> Here is the last segment on my mobile workstation. Overall I'm very pleased with it, but I would definitely make some changes if I had to do it again (due mainly to my screw-ups, not a problem with the design).
> 
> First, as many of you know a typical contractor saw has a large number of gaping holes that make dust collection difficult. I used some 1/8" hardboard and magnetic vent cover sheets to block most of the holes. The back's attached with velcro so it can be removed if I need to make any bevel cuts. Since 99% of my table saw cuts are straight cuts it shouldn't be a big deal. This definitely made a difference and now most of the dust gets sucked into the vacuum instead of blown across the garage. You can also see the power switch I took from my router table in the basement. I use it for both the table saw and the router (of course, you probably want to turn whatever device you're not currently using off).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned before, I had a ton of laminate left so I went ahead and laminated the door fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the router attached to the insert and a hole in the back for the power cable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching the hinges to the door fronts. Let me take a moment here to mention what a poor choice these hinges were for the doors. They really need more than 3/4" to attach to the frame, since it leaves a small gap by the hinges. I had to cut the doors down to fit. They also offer about zero adjustability. If this wasn't shop furniture I'd have gone with an inset adjustable hinge and redone the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doors and drawer fronts attached. I attached the drawer fronts with double sided poster tape and then drilled holes in the back and screwed them together. I also cut down all the drawer fronts since my initial design had everything pretty-much gapless and I didn't really want to try to achieve those tolerances. Here you can also see I've leveled the table saw with the top. I used a piece of 1/8" hardboard and 1/4" oak ply along with a washer or two to shim the table saw flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's one of my screw-ups. I failed to take into account the fact the fence rails sit lower than the top and block the top doors and drawer. I cut the doors and drawer to clear the fence and attached the cutoff piece with magnetic catches to maintain a somewhat consistent look. I cut the pieces on the bandsaw to minimize the curf. It worked-out ok, but I'd recommend measuring better in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pics of the finished workstation. I got the pulls at Lowe's for $.28 each on clearance, and they happen to match the hinges on the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the back. The extension top was another oops of mine. I didn't take it into account when I initially designed the workstation, so it would initially be too long to fit under the outfeed table with it attached. I had to remove the two triangle braces and redrill the hinges to allow it to sit flush to the side. I then attached a triangle brace to the back that flips forward and holds-up the top. It works pretty-well, but the extension can't maintain a ton of weight. It shouldn't be a problem with what I use it for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A shot of the router table in use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workstation stored under the outfeed table and out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall, a great project and I'm glad I built it. Here are the Sketchup files and material list in an Excel file:
> 
> Cutting Diagram
> 
> Dimensions
> 
> Workstation
> 
> Material List
> 
> A couple notes:
> 
> 1. The design is setup for 3/4" material. If you use 3/4" ply for the base like I did you'll need to adjust the measurements for the 11/16" material for the base.
> 
> 2. Pocket screws aren't enough to hold the 2×4 bottom together. The material is just too soft. I had to glue and clamp it as well as use pocket screws. That is the only thing glued on this workstation (except for the laminate).
> 
> 3. You may want to cut-down the drawer fronts and doors since I left no gap in the design.
> 
> 4. Of course, you'll probably need to resize everything to fit your particular circumstances.
> 
> If you have any questions or comments let me know.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Greg


looks fantastic! I take it you don't tilt the blade on the TS?


----------



## gwurst

gwurst said:


> *Finishing up*
> 
> Here is the last segment on my mobile workstation. Overall I'm very pleased with it, but I would definitely make some changes if I had to do it again (due mainly to my screw-ups, not a problem with the design).
> 
> First, as many of you know a typical contractor saw has a large number of gaping holes that make dust collection difficult. I used some 1/8" hardboard and magnetic vent cover sheets to block most of the holes. The back's attached with velcro so it can be removed if I need to make any bevel cuts. Since 99% of my table saw cuts are straight cuts it shouldn't be a big deal. This definitely made a difference and now most of the dust gets sucked into the vacuum instead of blown across the garage. You can also see the power switch I took from my router table in the basement. I use it for both the table saw and the router (of course, you probably want to turn whatever device you're not currently using off).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned before, I had a ton of laminate left so I went ahead and laminated the door fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the router attached to the insert and a hole in the back for the power cable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching the hinges to the door fronts. Let me take a moment here to mention what a poor choice these hinges were for the doors. They really need more than 3/4" to attach to the frame, since it leaves a small gap by the hinges. I had to cut the doors down to fit. They also offer about zero adjustability. If this wasn't shop furniture I'd have gone with an inset adjustable hinge and redone the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doors and drawer fronts attached. I attached the drawer fronts with double sided poster tape and then drilled holes in the back and screwed them together. I also cut down all the drawer fronts since my initial design had everything pretty-much gapless and I didn't really want to try to achieve those tolerances. Here you can also see I've leveled the table saw with the top. I used a piece of 1/8" hardboard and 1/4" oak ply along with a washer or two to shim the table saw flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's one of my screw-ups. I failed to take into account the fact the fence rails sit lower than the top and block the top doors and drawer. I cut the doors and drawer to clear the fence and attached the cutoff piece with magnetic catches to maintain a somewhat consistent look. I cut the pieces on the bandsaw to minimize the curf. It worked-out ok, but I'd recommend measuring better in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pics of the finished workstation. I got the pulls at Lowe's for $.28 each on clearance, and they happen to match the hinges on the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the back. The extension top was another oops of mine. I didn't take it into account when I initially designed the workstation, so it would initially be too long to fit under the outfeed table with it attached. I had to remove the two triangle braces and redrill the hinges to allow it to sit flush to the side. I then attached a triangle brace to the back that flips forward and holds-up the top. It works pretty-well, but the extension can't maintain a ton of weight. It shouldn't be a problem with what I use it for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A shot of the router table in use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workstation stored under the outfeed table and out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall, a great project and I'm glad I built it. Here are the Sketchup files and material list in an Excel file:
> 
> Cutting Diagram
> 
> Dimensions
> 
> Workstation
> 
> Material List
> 
> A couple notes:
> 
> 1. The design is setup for 3/4" material. If you use 3/4" ply for the base like I did you'll need to adjust the measurements for the 11/16" material for the base.
> 
> 2. Pocket screws aren't enough to hold the 2×4 bottom together. The material is just too soft. I had to glue and clamp it as well as use pocket screws. That is the only thing glued on this workstation (except for the laminate).
> 
> 3. You may want to cut-down the drawer fronts and doors since I left no gap in the design.
> 
> 4. Of course, you'll probably need to resize everything to fit your particular circumstances.
> 
> If you have any questions or comments let me know.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Greg


When I need to tilt the blade I remove the dust shields and such. One day I'll build something that will move with the trunions.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker

gwurst said:


> *Finishing up*
> 
> Here is the last segment on my mobile workstation. Overall I'm very pleased with it, but I would definitely make some changes if I had to do it again (due mainly to my screw-ups, not a problem with the design).
> 
> First, as many of you know a typical contractor saw has a large number of gaping holes that make dust collection difficult. I used some 1/8" hardboard and magnetic vent cover sheets to block most of the holes. The back's attached with velcro so it can be removed if I need to make any bevel cuts. Since 99% of my table saw cuts are straight cuts it shouldn't be a big deal. This definitely made a difference and now most of the dust gets sucked into the vacuum instead of blown across the garage. You can also see the power switch I took from my router table in the basement. I use it for both the table saw and the router (of course, you probably want to turn whatever device you're not currently using off).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned before, I had a ton of laminate left so I went ahead and laminated the door fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the router attached to the insert and a hole in the back for the power cable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching the hinges to the door fronts. Let me take a moment here to mention what a poor choice these hinges were for the doors. They really need more than 3/4" to attach to the frame, since it leaves a small gap by the hinges. I had to cut the doors down to fit. They also offer about zero adjustability. If this wasn't shop furniture I'd have gone with an inset adjustable hinge and redone the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doors and drawer fronts attached. I attached the drawer fronts with double sided poster tape and then drilled holes in the back and screwed them together. I also cut down all the drawer fronts since my initial design had everything pretty-much gapless and I didn't really want to try to achieve those tolerances. Here you can also see I've leveled the table saw with the top. I used a piece of 1/8" hardboard and 1/4" oak ply along with a washer or two to shim the table saw flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's one of my screw-ups. I failed to take into account the fact the fence rails sit lower than the top and block the top doors and drawer. I cut the doors and drawer to clear the fence and attached the cutoff piece with magnetic catches to maintain a somewhat consistent look. I cut the pieces on the bandsaw to minimize the curf. It worked-out ok, but I'd recommend measuring better in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pics of the finished workstation. I got the pulls at Lowe's for $.28 each on clearance, and they happen to match the hinges on the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the back. The extension top was another oops of mine. I didn't take it into account when I initially designed the workstation, so it would initially be too long to fit under the outfeed table with it attached. I had to remove the two triangle braces and redrill the hinges to allow it to sit flush to the side. I then attached a triangle brace to the back that flips forward and holds-up the top. It works pretty-well, but the extension can't maintain a ton of weight. It shouldn't be a problem with what I use it for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A shot of the router table in use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workstation stored under the outfeed table and out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall, a great project and I'm glad I built it. Here are the Sketchup files and material list in an Excel file:
> 
> Cutting Diagram
> 
> Dimensions
> 
> Workstation
> 
> Material List
> 
> A couple notes:
> 
> 1. The design is setup for 3/4" material. If you use 3/4" ply for the base like I did you'll need to adjust the measurements for the 11/16" material for the base.
> 
> 2. Pocket screws aren't enough to hold the 2×4 bottom together. The material is just too soft. I had to glue and clamp it as well as use pocket screws. That is the only thing glued on this workstation (except for the laminate).
> 
> 3. You may want to cut-down the drawer fronts and doors since I left no gap in the design.
> 
> 4. Of course, you'll probably need to resize everything to fit your particular circumstances.
> 
> If you have any questions or comments let me know.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Greg


Nice work!


----------



## a1Jim

gwurst said:


> *Finishing up*
> 
> Here is the last segment on my mobile workstation. Overall I'm very pleased with it, but I would definitely make some changes if I had to do it again (due mainly to my screw-ups, not a problem with the design).
> 
> First, as many of you know a typical contractor saw has a large number of gaping holes that make dust collection difficult. I used some 1/8" hardboard and magnetic vent cover sheets to block most of the holes. The back's attached with velcro so it can be removed if I need to make any bevel cuts. Since 99% of my table saw cuts are straight cuts it shouldn't be a big deal. This definitely made a difference and now most of the dust gets sucked into the vacuum instead of blown across the garage. You can also see the power switch I took from my router table in the basement. I use it for both the table saw and the router (of course, you probably want to turn whatever device you're not currently using off).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned before, I had a ton of laminate left so I went ahead and laminated the door fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the router attached to the insert and a hole in the back for the power cable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching the hinges to the door fronts. Let me take a moment here to mention what a poor choice these hinges were for the doors. They really need more than 3/4" to attach to the frame, since it leaves a small gap by the hinges. I had to cut the doors down to fit. They also offer about zero adjustability. If this wasn't shop furniture I'd have gone with an inset adjustable hinge and redone the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doors and drawer fronts attached. I attached the drawer fronts with double sided poster tape and then drilled holes in the back and screwed them together. I also cut down all the drawer fronts since my initial design had everything pretty-much gapless and I didn't really want to try to achieve those tolerances. Here you can also see I've leveled the table saw with the top. I used a piece of 1/8" hardboard and 1/4" oak ply along with a washer or two to shim the table saw flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's one of my screw-ups. I failed to take into account the fact the fence rails sit lower than the top and block the top doors and drawer. I cut the doors and drawer to clear the fence and attached the cutoff piece with magnetic catches to maintain a somewhat consistent look. I cut the pieces on the bandsaw to minimize the curf. It worked-out ok, but I'd recommend measuring better in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pics of the finished workstation. I got the pulls at Lowe's for $.28 each on clearance, and they happen to match the hinges on the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the back. The extension top was another oops of mine. I didn't take it into account when I initially designed the workstation, so it would initially be too long to fit under the outfeed table with it attached. I had to remove the two triangle braces and redrill the hinges to allow it to sit flush to the side. I then attached a triangle brace to the back that flips forward and holds-up the top. It works pretty-well, but the extension can't maintain a ton of weight. It shouldn't be a problem with what I use it for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A shot of the router table in use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workstation stored under the outfeed table and out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall, a great project and I'm glad I built it. Here are the Sketchup files and material list in an Excel file:
> 
> Cutting Diagram
> 
> Dimensions
> 
> Workstation
> 
> Material List
> 
> A couple notes:
> 
> 1. The design is setup for 3/4" material. If you use 3/4" ply for the base like I did you'll need to adjust the measurements for the 11/16" material for the base.
> 
> 2. Pocket screws aren't enough to hold the 2×4 bottom together. The material is just too soft. I had to glue and clamp it as well as use pocket screws. That is the only thing glued on this workstation (except for the laminate).
> 
> 3. You may want to cut-down the drawer fronts and doors since I left no gap in the design.
> 
> 4. Of course, you'll probably need to resize everything to fit your particular circumstances.
> 
> If you have any questions or comments let me know.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Greg


This came out Great


----------



## pete79

gwurst said:


> *Finishing up*
> 
> Here is the last segment on my mobile workstation. Overall I'm very pleased with it, but I would definitely make some changes if I had to do it again (due mainly to my screw-ups, not a problem with the design).
> 
> First, as many of you know a typical contractor saw has a large number of gaping holes that make dust collection difficult. I used some 1/8" hardboard and magnetic vent cover sheets to block most of the holes. The back's attached with velcro so it can be removed if I need to make any bevel cuts. Since 99% of my table saw cuts are straight cuts it shouldn't be a big deal. This definitely made a difference and now most of the dust gets sucked into the vacuum instead of blown across the garage. You can also see the power switch I took from my router table in the basement. I use it for both the table saw and the router (of course, you probably want to turn whatever device you're not currently using off).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned before, I had a ton of laminate left so I went ahead and laminated the door fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the router attached to the insert and a hole in the back for the power cable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching the hinges to the door fronts. Let me take a moment here to mention what a poor choice these hinges were for the doors. They really need more than 3/4" to attach to the frame, since it leaves a small gap by the hinges. I had to cut the doors down to fit. They also offer about zero adjustability. If this wasn't shop furniture I'd have gone with an inset adjustable hinge and redone the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doors and drawer fronts attached. I attached the drawer fronts with double sided poster tape and then drilled holes in the back and screwed them together. I also cut down all the drawer fronts since my initial design had everything pretty-much gapless and I didn't really want to try to achieve those tolerances. Here you can also see I've leveled the table saw with the top. I used a piece of 1/8" hardboard and 1/4" oak ply along with a washer or two to shim the table saw flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's one of my screw-ups. I failed to take into account the fact the fence rails sit lower than the top and block the top doors and drawer. I cut the doors and drawer to clear the fence and attached the cutoff piece with magnetic catches to maintain a somewhat consistent look. I cut the pieces on the bandsaw to minimize the curf. It worked-out ok, but I'd recommend measuring better in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pics of the finished workstation. I got the pulls at Lowe's for $.28 each on clearance, and they happen to match the hinges on the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the back. The extension top was another oops of mine. I didn't take it into account when I initially designed the workstation, so it would initially be too long to fit under the outfeed table with it attached. I had to remove the two triangle braces and redrill the hinges to allow it to sit flush to the side. I then attached a triangle brace to the back that flips forward and holds-up the top. It works pretty-well, but the extension can't maintain a ton of weight. It shouldn't be a problem with what I use it for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A shot of the router table in use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workstation stored under the outfeed table and out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall, a great project and I'm glad I built it. Here are the Sketchup files and material list in an Excel file:
> 
> Cutting Diagram
> 
> Dimensions
> 
> Workstation
> 
> Material List
> 
> A couple notes:
> 
> 1. The design is setup for 3/4" material. If you use 3/4" ply for the base like I did you'll need to adjust the measurements for the 11/16" material for the base.
> 
> 2. Pocket screws aren't enough to hold the 2×4 bottom together. The material is just too soft. I had to glue and clamp it as well as use pocket screws. That is the only thing glued on this workstation (except for the laminate).
> 
> 3. You may want to cut-down the drawer fronts and doors since I left no gap in the design.
> 
> 4. Of course, you'll probably need to resize everything to fit your particular circumstances.
> 
> If you have any questions or comments let me know.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Greg


Greg - this looks great and gives me a lot of ideas. How did you do the dust collection set-up for the saw itself? I saw in an earlier picture that you attached a 90 degree elbow to the hole cut in the ply that the saw sits on, but I can't tell how you then attach that to the shop-vac. I'm working with almost an identical situation and am looking for ideas.


----------



## gwurst

gwurst said:


> *Finishing up*
> 
> Here is the last segment on my mobile workstation. Overall I'm very pleased with it, but I would definitely make some changes if I had to do it again (due mainly to my screw-ups, not a problem with the design).
> 
> First, as many of you know a typical contractor saw has a large number of gaping holes that make dust collection difficult. I used some 1/8" hardboard and magnetic vent cover sheets to block most of the holes. The back's attached with velcro so it can be removed if I need to make any bevel cuts. Since 99% of my table saw cuts are straight cuts it shouldn't be a big deal. This definitely made a difference and now most of the dust gets sucked into the vacuum instead of blown across the garage. You can also see the power switch I took from my router table in the basement. I use it for both the table saw and the router (of course, you probably want to turn whatever device you're not currently using off).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned before, I had a ton of laminate left so I went ahead and laminated the door fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the router attached to the insert and a hole in the back for the power cable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching the hinges to the door fronts. Let me take a moment here to mention what a poor choice these hinges were for the doors. They really need more than 3/4" to attach to the frame, since it leaves a small gap by the hinges. I had to cut the doors down to fit. They also offer about zero adjustability. If this wasn't shop furniture I'd have gone with an inset adjustable hinge and redone the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doors and drawer fronts attached. I attached the drawer fronts with double sided poster tape and then drilled holes in the back and screwed them together. I also cut down all the drawer fronts since my initial design had everything pretty-much gapless and I didn't really want to try to achieve those tolerances. Here you can also see I've leveled the table saw with the top. I used a piece of 1/8" hardboard and 1/4" oak ply along with a washer or two to shim the table saw flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's one of my screw-ups. I failed to take into account the fact the fence rails sit lower than the top and block the top doors and drawer. I cut the doors and drawer to clear the fence and attached the cutoff piece with magnetic catches to maintain a somewhat consistent look. I cut the pieces on the bandsaw to minimize the curf. It worked-out ok, but I'd recommend measuring better in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pics of the finished workstation. I got the pulls at Lowe's for $.28 each on clearance, and they happen to match the hinges on the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the back. The extension top was another oops of mine. I didn't take it into account when I initially designed the workstation, so it would initially be too long to fit under the outfeed table with it attached. I had to remove the two triangle braces and redrill the hinges to allow it to sit flush to the side. I then attached a triangle brace to the back that flips forward and holds-up the top. It works pretty-well, but the extension can't maintain a ton of weight. It shouldn't be a problem with what I use it for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A shot of the router table in use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workstation stored under the outfeed table and out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall, a great project and I'm glad I built it. Here are the Sketchup files and material list in an Excel file:
> 
> Cutting Diagram
> 
> Dimensions
> 
> Workstation
> 
> Material List
> 
> A couple notes:
> 
> 1. The design is setup for 3/4" material. If you use 3/4" ply for the base like I did you'll need to adjust the measurements for the 11/16" material for the base.
> 
> 2. Pocket screws aren't enough to hold the 2×4 bottom together. The material is just too soft. I had to glue and clamp it as well as use pocket screws. That is the only thing glued on this workstation (except for the laminate).
> 
> 3. You may want to cut-down the drawer fronts and doors since I left no gap in the design.
> 
> 4. Of course, you'll probably need to resize everything to fit your particular circumstances.
> 
> If you have any questions or comments let me know.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Greg


The elbow was attached to a 4"x 2 1/2" adapter that pokes-out a hole in the back. I've now removed that and attached a 4" quick disconnect.


----------



## Dandolion

gwurst said:


> *Finishing up*
> 
> Here is the last segment on my mobile workstation. Overall I'm very pleased with it, but I would definitely make some changes if I had to do it again (due mainly to my screw-ups, not a problem with the design).
> 
> First, as many of you know a typical contractor saw has a large number of gaping holes that make dust collection difficult. I used some 1/8" hardboard and magnetic vent cover sheets to block most of the holes. The back's attached with velcro so it can be removed if I need to make any bevel cuts. Since 99% of my table saw cuts are straight cuts it shouldn't be a big deal. This definitely made a difference and now most of the dust gets sucked into the vacuum instead of blown across the garage. You can also see the power switch I took from my router table in the basement. I use it for both the table saw and the router (of course, you probably want to turn whatever device you're not currently using off).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned before, I had a ton of laminate left so I went ahead and laminated the door fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the router attached to the insert and a hole in the back for the power cable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching the hinges to the door fronts. Let me take a moment here to mention what a poor choice these hinges were for the doors. They really need more than 3/4" to attach to the frame, since it leaves a small gap by the hinges. I had to cut the doors down to fit. They also offer about zero adjustability. If this wasn't shop furniture I'd have gone with an inset adjustable hinge and redone the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doors and drawer fronts attached. I attached the drawer fronts with double sided poster tape and then drilled holes in the back and screwed them together. I also cut down all the drawer fronts since my initial design had everything pretty-much gapless and I didn't really want to try to achieve those tolerances. Here you can also see I've leveled the table saw with the top. I used a piece of 1/8" hardboard and 1/4" oak ply along with a washer or two to shim the table saw flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's one of my screw-ups. I failed to take into account the fact the fence rails sit lower than the top and block the top doors and drawer. I cut the doors and drawer to clear the fence and attached the cutoff piece with magnetic catches to maintain a somewhat consistent look. I cut the pieces on the bandsaw to minimize the curf. It worked-out ok, but I'd recommend measuring better in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pics of the finished workstation. I got the pulls at Lowe's for $.28 each on clearance, and they happen to match the hinges on the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the back. The extension top was another oops of mine. I didn't take it into account when I initially designed the workstation, so it would initially be too long to fit under the outfeed table with it attached. I had to remove the two triangle braces and redrill the hinges to allow it to sit flush to the side. I then attached a triangle brace to the back that flips forward and holds-up the top. It works pretty-well, but the extension can't maintain a ton of weight. It shouldn't be a problem with what I use it for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A shot of the router table in use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workstation stored under the outfeed table and out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall, a great project and I'm glad I built it. Here are the Sketchup files and material list in an Excel file:
> 
> Cutting Diagram
> 
> Dimensions
> 
> Workstation
> 
> Material List
> 
> A couple notes:
> 
> 1. The design is setup for 3/4" material. If you use 3/4" ply for the base like I did you'll need to adjust the measurements for the 11/16" material for the base.
> 
> 2. Pocket screws aren't enough to hold the 2×4 bottom together. The material is just too soft. I had to glue and clamp it as well as use pocket screws. That is the only thing glued on this workstation (except for the laminate).
> 
> 3. You may want to cut-down the drawer fronts and doors since I left no gap in the design.
> 
> 4. Of course, you'll probably need to resize everything to fit your particular circumstances.
> 
> If you have any questions or comments let me know.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Greg


I was discussing a project like this with a friend of mine and he cautioned me about putting a table saw on wheels. I have been thinking about some sort of lift jack system to have wheels that retract and can be brought back down. Though all of the mechanisms that I can think of take up more space than I would like. How do you keep this table from moving when you use it? I think I am going to build a version of this very soon.


----------



## gwurst

gwurst said:


> *Finishing up*
> 
> Here is the last segment on my mobile workstation. Overall I'm very pleased with it, but I would definitely make some changes if I had to do it again (due mainly to my screw-ups, not a problem with the design).
> 
> First, as many of you know a typical contractor saw has a large number of gaping holes that make dust collection difficult. I used some 1/8" hardboard and magnetic vent cover sheets to block most of the holes. The back's attached with velcro so it can be removed if I need to make any bevel cuts. Since 99% of my table saw cuts are straight cuts it shouldn't be a big deal. This definitely made a difference and now most of the dust gets sucked into the vacuum instead of blown across the garage. You can also see the power switch I took from my router table in the basement. I use it for both the table saw and the router (of course, you probably want to turn whatever device you're not currently using off).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned before, I had a ton of laminate left so I went ahead and laminated the door fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the router attached to the insert and a hole in the back for the power cable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching the hinges to the door fronts. Let me take a moment here to mention what a poor choice these hinges were for the doors. They really need more than 3/4" to attach to the frame, since it leaves a small gap by the hinges. I had to cut the doors down to fit. They also offer about zero adjustability. If this wasn't shop furniture I'd have gone with an inset adjustable hinge and redone the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doors and drawer fronts attached. I attached the drawer fronts with double sided poster tape and then drilled holes in the back and screwed them together. I also cut down all the drawer fronts since my initial design had everything pretty-much gapless and I didn't really want to try to achieve those tolerances. Here you can also see I've leveled the table saw with the top. I used a piece of 1/8" hardboard and 1/4" oak ply along with a washer or two to shim the table saw flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's one of my screw-ups. I failed to take into account the fact the fence rails sit lower than the top and block the top doors and drawer. I cut the doors and drawer to clear the fence and attached the cutoff piece with magnetic catches to maintain a somewhat consistent look. I cut the pieces on the bandsaw to minimize the curf. It worked-out ok, but I'd recommend measuring better in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pics of the finished workstation. I got the pulls at Lowe's for $.28 each on clearance, and they happen to match the hinges on the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the back. The extension top was another oops of mine. I didn't take it into account when I initially designed the workstation, so it would initially be too long to fit under the outfeed table with it attached. I had to remove the two triangle braces and redrill the hinges to allow it to sit flush to the side. I then attached a triangle brace to the back that flips forward and holds-up the top. It works pretty-well, but the extension can't maintain a ton of weight. It shouldn't be a problem with what I use it for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A shot of the router table in use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workstation stored under the outfeed table and out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall, a great project and I'm glad I built it. Here are the Sketchup files and material list in an Excel file:
> 
> Cutting Diagram
> 
> Dimensions
> 
> Workstation
> 
> Material List
> 
> A couple notes:
> 
> 1. The design is setup for 3/4" material. If you use 3/4" ply for the base like I did you'll need to adjust the measurements for the 11/16" material for the base.
> 
> 2. Pocket screws aren't enough to hold the 2×4 bottom together. The material is just too soft. I had to glue and clamp it as well as use pocket screws. That is the only thing glued on this workstation (except for the laminate).
> 
> 3. You may want to cut-down the drawer fronts and doors since I left no gap in the design.
> 
> 4. Of course, you'll probably need to resize everything to fit your particular circumstances.
> 
> If you have any questions or comments let me know.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Greg


The thing weighs a metric ton and doesn't budge. I don't even lock the wheels. Once it's rolled into place it doesn't move even slightly.


----------



## RibsBrisket4me

gwurst said:


> *Finishing up*
> 
> Here is the last segment on my mobile workstation. Overall I'm very pleased with it, but I would definitely make some changes if I had to do it again (due mainly to my screw-ups, not a problem with the design).
> 
> First, as many of you know a typical contractor saw has a large number of gaping holes that make dust collection difficult. I used some 1/8" hardboard and magnetic vent cover sheets to block most of the holes. The back's attached with velcro so it can be removed if I need to make any bevel cuts. Since 99% of my table saw cuts are straight cuts it shouldn't be a big deal. This definitely made a difference and now most of the dust gets sucked into the vacuum instead of blown across the garage. You can also see the power switch I took from my router table in the basement. I use it for both the table saw and the router (of course, you probably want to turn whatever device you're not currently using off).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned before, I had a ton of laminate left so I went ahead and laminated the door fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the router attached to the insert and a hole in the back for the power cable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching the hinges to the door fronts. Let me take a moment here to mention what a poor choice these hinges were for the doors. They really need more than 3/4" to attach to the frame, since it leaves a small gap by the hinges. I had to cut the doors down to fit. They also offer about zero adjustability. If this wasn't shop furniture I'd have gone with an inset adjustable hinge and redone the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doors and drawer fronts attached. I attached the drawer fronts with double sided poster tape and then drilled holes in the back and screwed them together. I also cut down all the drawer fronts since my initial design had everything pretty-much gapless and I didn't really want to try to achieve those tolerances. Here you can also see I've leveled the table saw with the top. I used a piece of 1/8" hardboard and 1/4" oak ply along with a washer or two to shim the table saw flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's one of my screw-ups. I failed to take into account the fact the fence rails sit lower than the top and block the top doors and drawer. I cut the doors and drawer to clear the fence and attached the cutoff piece with magnetic catches to maintain a somewhat consistent look. I cut the pieces on the bandsaw to minimize the curf. It worked-out ok, but I'd recommend measuring better in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pics of the finished workstation. I got the pulls at Lowe's for $.28 each on clearance, and they happen to match the hinges on the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the back. The extension top was another oops of mine. I didn't take it into account when I initially designed the workstation, so it would initially be too long to fit under the outfeed table with it attached. I had to remove the two triangle braces and redrill the hinges to allow it to sit flush to the side. I then attached a triangle brace to the back that flips forward and holds-up the top. It works pretty-well, but the extension can't maintain a ton of weight. It shouldn't be a problem with what I use it for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A shot of the router table in use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workstation stored under the outfeed table and out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall, a great project and I'm glad I built it. Here are the Sketchup files and material list in an Excel file:
> 
> Cutting Diagram
> 
> Dimensions
> 
> Workstation
> 
> Material List
> 
> A couple notes:
> 
> 1. The design is setup for 3/4" material. If you use 3/4" ply for the base like I did you'll need to adjust the measurements for the 11/16" material for the base.
> 
> 2. Pocket screws aren't enough to hold the 2×4 bottom together. The material is just too soft. I had to glue and clamp it as well as use pocket screws. That is the only thing glued on this workstation (except for the laminate).
> 
> 3. You may want to cut-down the drawer fronts and doors since I left no gap in the design.
> 
> 4. Of course, you'll probably need to resize everything to fit your particular circumstances.
> 
> If you have any questions or comments let me know.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Greg


Greg, that is the nicest tablesaw workstation I have ever seen!


----------



## SnowFrog

gwurst said:


> *Finishing up*
> 
> Here is the last segment on my mobile workstation. Overall I'm very pleased with it, but I would definitely make some changes if I had to do it again (due mainly to my screw-ups, not a problem with the design).
> 
> First, as many of you know a typical contractor saw has a large number of gaping holes that make dust collection difficult. I used some 1/8" hardboard and magnetic vent cover sheets to block most of the holes. The back's attached with velcro so it can be removed if I need to make any bevel cuts. Since 99% of my table saw cuts are straight cuts it shouldn't be a big deal. This definitely made a difference and now most of the dust gets sucked into the vacuum instead of blown across the garage. You can also see the power switch I took from my router table in the basement. I use it for both the table saw and the router (of course, you probably want to turn whatever device you're not currently using off).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned before, I had a ton of laminate left so I went ahead and laminated the door fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the router attached to the insert and a hole in the back for the power cable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching the hinges to the door fronts. Let me take a moment here to mention what a poor choice these hinges were for the doors. They really need more than 3/4" to attach to the frame, since it leaves a small gap by the hinges. I had to cut the doors down to fit. They also offer about zero adjustability. If this wasn't shop furniture I'd have gone with an inset adjustable hinge and redone the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doors and drawer fronts attached. I attached the drawer fronts with double sided poster tape and then drilled holes in the back and screwed them together. I also cut down all the drawer fronts since my initial design had everything pretty-much gapless and I didn't really want to try to achieve those tolerances. Here you can also see I've leveled the table saw with the top. I used a piece of 1/8" hardboard and 1/4" oak ply along with a washer or two to shim the table saw flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's one of my screw-ups. I failed to take into account the fact the fence rails sit lower than the top and block the top doors and drawer. I cut the doors and drawer to clear the fence and attached the cutoff piece with magnetic catches to maintain a somewhat consistent look. I cut the pieces on the bandsaw to minimize the curf. It worked-out ok, but I'd recommend measuring better in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pics of the finished workstation. I got the pulls at Lowe's for $.28 each on clearance, and they happen to match the hinges on the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the back. The extension top was another oops of mine. I didn't take it into account when I initially designed the workstation, so it would initially be too long to fit under the outfeed table with it attached. I had to remove the two triangle braces and redrill the hinges to allow it to sit flush to the side. I then attached a triangle brace to the back that flips forward and holds-up the top. It works pretty-well, but the extension can't maintain a ton of weight. It shouldn't be a problem with what I use it for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A shot of the router table in use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workstation stored under the outfeed table and out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall, a great project and I'm glad I built it. Here are the Sketchup files and material list in an Excel file:
> 
> Cutting Diagram
> 
> Dimensions
> 
> Workstation
> 
> Material List
> 
> A couple notes:
> 
> 1. The design is setup for 3/4" material. If you use 3/4" ply for the base like I did you'll need to adjust the measurements for the 11/16" material for the base.
> 
> 2. Pocket screws aren't enough to hold the 2×4 bottom together. The material is just too soft. I had to glue and clamp it as well as use pocket screws. That is the only thing glued on this workstation (except for the laminate).
> 
> 3. You may want to cut-down the drawer fronts and doors since I left no gap in the design.
> 
> 4. Of course, you'll probably need to resize everything to fit your particular circumstances.
> 
> If you have any questions or comments let me know.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Greg


very nice job! I am dreaming of building one of those…. for my tiny shop.


----------



## Smeezway1

gwurst said:


> *Finishing up*
> 
> Here is the last segment on my mobile workstation. Overall I'm very pleased with it, but I would definitely make some changes if I had to do it again (due mainly to my screw-ups, not a problem with the design).
> 
> First, as many of you know a typical contractor saw has a large number of gaping holes that make dust collection difficult. I used some 1/8" hardboard and magnetic vent cover sheets to block most of the holes. The back's attached with velcro so it can be removed if I need to make any bevel cuts. Since 99% of my table saw cuts are straight cuts it shouldn't be a big deal. This definitely made a difference and now most of the dust gets sucked into the vacuum instead of blown across the garage. You can also see the power switch I took from my router table in the basement. I use it for both the table saw and the router (of course, you probably want to turn whatever device you're not currently using off).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned before, I had a ton of laminate left so I went ahead and laminated the door fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the router attached to the insert and a hole in the back for the power cable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching the hinges to the door fronts. Let me take a moment here to mention what a poor choice these hinges were for the doors. They really need more than 3/4" to attach to the frame, since it leaves a small gap by the hinges. I had to cut the doors down to fit. They also offer about zero adjustability. If this wasn't shop furniture I'd have gone with an inset adjustable hinge and redone the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doors and drawer fronts attached. I attached the drawer fronts with double sided poster tape and then drilled holes in the back and screwed them together. I also cut down all the drawer fronts since my initial design had everything pretty-much gapless and I didn't really want to try to achieve those tolerances. Here you can also see I've leveled the table saw with the top. I used a piece of 1/8" hardboard and 1/4" oak ply along with a washer or two to shim the table saw flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's one of my screw-ups. I failed to take into account the fact the fence rails sit lower than the top and block the top doors and drawer. I cut the doors and drawer to clear the fence and attached the cutoff piece with magnetic catches to maintain a somewhat consistent look. I cut the pieces on the bandsaw to minimize the curf. It worked-out ok, but I'd recommend measuring better in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pics of the finished workstation. I got the pulls at Lowe's for $.28 each on clearance, and they happen to match the hinges on the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the back. The extension top was another oops of mine. I didn't take it into account when I initially designed the workstation, so it would initially be too long to fit under the outfeed table with it attached. I had to remove the two triangle braces and redrill the hinges to allow it to sit flush to the side. I then attached a triangle brace to the back that flips forward and holds-up the top. It works pretty-well, but the extension can't maintain a ton of weight. It shouldn't be a problem with what I use it for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A shot of the router table in use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workstation stored under the outfeed table and out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall, a great project and I'm glad I built it. Here are the Sketchup files and material list in an Excel file:
> 
> Cutting Diagram
> 
> Dimensions
> 
> Workstation
> 
> Material List
> 
> A couple notes:
> 
> 1. The design is setup for 3/4" material. If you use 3/4" ply for the base like I did you'll need to adjust the measurements for the 11/16" material for the base.
> 
> 2. Pocket screws aren't enough to hold the 2×4 bottom together. The material is just too soft. I had to glue and clamp it as well as use pocket screws. That is the only thing glued on this workstation (except for the laminate).
> 
> 3. You may want to cut-down the drawer fronts and doors since I left no gap in the design.
> 
> 4. Of course, you'll probably need to resize everything to fit your particular circumstances.
> 
> If you have any questions or comments let me know.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Greg


I am building this right now for my dewalt 744 tablesaw and I was wondering what fence system you used. I am looking to replace the factory fence as it has limited rip capacity and actually will be deemed immobile due to the table top on either side of the saw.


----------



## gwurst

gwurst said:


> *Finishing up*
> 
> Here is the last segment on my mobile workstation. Overall I'm very pleased with it, but I would definitely make some changes if I had to do it again (due mainly to my screw-ups, not a problem with the design).
> 
> First, as many of you know a typical contractor saw has a large number of gaping holes that make dust collection difficult. I used some 1/8" hardboard and magnetic vent cover sheets to block most of the holes. The back's attached with velcro so it can be removed if I need to make any bevel cuts. Since 99% of my table saw cuts are straight cuts it shouldn't be a big deal. This definitely made a difference and now most of the dust gets sucked into the vacuum instead of blown across the garage. You can also see the power switch I took from my router table in the basement. I use it for both the table saw and the router (of course, you probably want to turn whatever device you're not currently using off).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned before, I had a ton of laminate left so I went ahead and laminated the door fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the router attached to the insert and a hole in the back for the power cable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching the hinges to the door fronts. Let me take a moment here to mention what a poor choice these hinges were for the doors. They really need more than 3/4" to attach to the frame, since it leaves a small gap by the hinges. I had to cut the doors down to fit. They also offer about zero adjustability. If this wasn't shop furniture I'd have gone with an inset adjustable hinge and redone the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doors and drawer fronts attached. I attached the drawer fronts with double sided poster tape and then drilled holes in the back and screwed them together. I also cut down all the drawer fronts since my initial design had everything pretty-much gapless and I didn't really want to try to achieve those tolerances. Here you can also see I've leveled the table saw with the top. I used a piece of 1/8" hardboard and 1/4" oak ply along with a washer or two to shim the table saw flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's one of my screw-ups. I failed to take into account the fact the fence rails sit lower than the top and block the top doors and drawer. I cut the doors and drawer to clear the fence and attached the cutoff piece with magnetic catches to maintain a somewhat consistent look. I cut the pieces on the bandsaw to minimize the curf. It worked-out ok, but I'd recommend measuring better in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pics of the finished workstation. I got the pulls at Lowe's for $.28 each on clearance, and they happen to match the hinges on the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the back. The extension top was another oops of mine. I didn't take it into account when I initially designed the workstation, so it would initially be too long to fit under the outfeed table with it attached. I had to remove the two triangle braces and redrill the hinges to allow it to sit flush to the side. I then attached a triangle brace to the back that flips forward and holds-up the top. It works pretty-well, but the extension can't maintain a ton of weight. It shouldn't be a problem with what I use it for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A shot of the router table in use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workstation stored under the outfeed table and out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall, a great project and I'm glad I built it. Here are the Sketchup files and material list in an Excel file:
> 
> Cutting Diagram
> 
> Dimensions
> 
> Workstation
> 
> Material List
> 
> A couple notes:
> 
> 1. The design is setup for 3/4" material. If you use 3/4" ply for the base like I did you'll need to adjust the measurements for the 11/16" material for the base.
> 
> 2. Pocket screws aren't enough to hold the 2×4 bottom together. The material is just too soft. I had to glue and clamp it as well as use pocket screws. That is the only thing glued on this workstation (except for the laminate).
> 
> 3. You may want to cut-down the drawer fronts and doors since I left no gap in the design.
> 
> 4. Of course, you'll probably need to resize everything to fit your particular circumstances.
> 
> If you have any questions or comments let me know.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Greg


Smeezway1 - I used a Vega utility fence. Has worked very well for me:

http://www.amazon.com/Vega-U26-Table-Fence-System/dp/B00002261Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1360521105&sr=8-1&keywords=vega+utility+26+saw+fence

Of course it feels a little funny using a fence that cost 3x as much as the saw.


----------



## Smeezway1

gwurst said:


> *Finishing up*
> 
> Here is the last segment on my mobile workstation. Overall I'm very pleased with it, but I would definitely make some changes if I had to do it again (due mainly to my screw-ups, not a problem with the design).
> 
> First, as many of you know a typical contractor saw has a large number of gaping holes that make dust collection difficult. I used some 1/8" hardboard and magnetic vent cover sheets to block most of the holes. The back's attached with velcro so it can be removed if I need to make any bevel cuts. Since 99% of my table saw cuts are straight cuts it shouldn't be a big deal. This definitely made a difference and now most of the dust gets sucked into the vacuum instead of blown across the garage. You can also see the power switch I took from my router table in the basement. I use it for both the table saw and the router (of course, you probably want to turn whatever device you're not currently using off).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned before, I had a ton of laminate left so I went ahead and laminated the door fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the router attached to the insert and a hole in the back for the power cable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching the hinges to the door fronts. Let me take a moment here to mention what a poor choice these hinges were for the doors. They really need more than 3/4" to attach to the frame, since it leaves a small gap by the hinges. I had to cut the doors down to fit. They also offer about zero adjustability. If this wasn't shop furniture I'd have gone with an inset adjustable hinge and redone the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doors and drawer fronts attached. I attached the drawer fronts with double sided poster tape and then drilled holes in the back and screwed them together. I also cut down all the drawer fronts since my initial design had everything pretty-much gapless and I didn't really want to try to achieve those tolerances. Here you can also see I've leveled the table saw with the top. I used a piece of 1/8" hardboard and 1/4" oak ply along with a washer or two to shim the table saw flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's one of my screw-ups. I failed to take into account the fact the fence rails sit lower than the top and block the top doors and drawer. I cut the doors and drawer to clear the fence and attached the cutoff piece with magnetic catches to maintain a somewhat consistent look. I cut the pieces on the bandsaw to minimize the curf. It worked-out ok, but I'd recommend measuring better in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pics of the finished workstation. I got the pulls at Lowe's for $.28 each on clearance, and they happen to match the hinges on the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the back. The extension top was another oops of mine. I didn't take it into account when I initially designed the workstation, so it would initially be too long to fit under the outfeed table with it attached. I had to remove the two triangle braces and redrill the hinges to allow it to sit flush to the side. I then attached a triangle brace to the back that flips forward and holds-up the top. It works pretty-well, but the extension can't maintain a ton of weight. It shouldn't be a problem with what I use it for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A shot of the router table in use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workstation stored under the outfeed table and out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall, a great project and I'm glad I built it. Here are the Sketchup files and material list in an Excel file:
> 
> Cutting Diagram
> 
> Dimensions
> 
> Workstation
> 
> Material List
> 
> A couple notes:
> 
> 1. The design is setup for 3/4" material. If you use 3/4" ply for the base like I did you'll need to adjust the measurements for the 11/16" material for the base.
> 
> 2. Pocket screws aren't enough to hold the 2×4 bottom together. The material is just too soft. I had to glue and clamp it as well as use pocket screws. That is the only thing glued on this workstation (except for the laminate).
> 
> 3. You may want to cut-down the drawer fronts and doors since I left no gap in the design.
> 
> 4. Of course, you'll probably need to resize everything to fit your particular circumstances.
> 
> If you have any questions or comments let me know.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Greg


Awesome! Thanks for the quick reply. I was leaning toward the vega as well. I love your plans. I'm following them to the T and appreciate the time you took to illustrate and comment on your steps. Btw, do you use a sled with your table saw? If so, does it work well with it?


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## gwurst

gwurst said:


> *Finishing up*
> 
> Here is the last segment on my mobile workstation. Overall I'm very pleased with it, but I would definitely make some changes if I had to do it again (due mainly to my screw-ups, not a problem with the design).
> 
> First, as many of you know a typical contractor saw has a large number of gaping holes that make dust collection difficult. I used some 1/8" hardboard and magnetic vent cover sheets to block most of the holes. The back's attached with velcro so it can be removed if I need to make any bevel cuts. Since 99% of my table saw cuts are straight cuts it shouldn't be a big deal. This definitely made a difference and now most of the dust gets sucked into the vacuum instead of blown across the garage. You can also see the power switch I took from my router table in the basement. I use it for both the table saw and the router (of course, you probably want to turn whatever device you're not currently using off).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> As I mentioned before, I had a ton of laminate left so I went ahead and laminated the door fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the router attached to the insert and a hole in the back for the power cable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attaching the hinges to the door fronts. Let me take a moment here to mention what a poor choice these hinges were for the doors. They really need more than 3/4" to attach to the frame, since it leaves a small gap by the hinges. I had to cut the doors down to fit. They also offer about zero adjustability. If this wasn't shop furniture I'd have gone with an inset adjustable hinge and redone the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doors and drawer fronts attached. I attached the drawer fronts with double sided poster tape and then drilled holes in the back and screwed them together. I also cut down all the drawer fronts since my initial design had everything pretty-much gapless and I didn't really want to try to achieve those tolerances. Here you can also see I've leveled the table saw with the top. I used a piece of 1/8" hardboard and 1/4" oak ply along with a washer or two to shim the table saw flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's one of my screw-ups. I failed to take into account the fact the fence rails sit lower than the top and block the top doors and drawer. I cut the doors and drawer to clear the fence and attached the cutoff piece with magnetic catches to maintain a somewhat consistent look. I cut the pieces on the bandsaw to minimize the curf. It worked-out ok, but I'd recommend measuring better in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pics of the finished workstation. I got the pulls at Lowe's for $.28 each on clearance, and they happen to match the hinges on the doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the back. The extension top was another oops of mine. I didn't take it into account when I initially designed the workstation, so it would initially be too long to fit under the outfeed table with it attached. I had to remove the two triangle braces and redrill the hinges to allow it to sit flush to the side. I then attached a triangle brace to the back that flips forward and holds-up the top. It works pretty-well, but the extension can't maintain a ton of weight. It shouldn't be a problem with what I use it for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A shot of the router table in use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workstation stored under the outfeed table and out of the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall, a great project and I'm glad I built it. Here are the Sketchup files and material list in an Excel file:
> 
> Cutting Diagram
> 
> Dimensions
> 
> Workstation
> 
> Material List
> 
> A couple notes:
> 
> 1. The design is setup for 3/4" material. If you use 3/4" ply for the base like I did you'll need to adjust the measurements for the 11/16" material for the base.
> 
> 2. Pocket screws aren't enough to hold the 2×4 bottom together. The material is just too soft. I had to glue and clamp it as well as use pocket screws. That is the only thing glued on this workstation (except for the laminate).
> 
> 3. You may want to cut-down the drawer fronts and doors since I left no gap in the design.
> 
> 4. Of course, you'll probably need to resize everything to fit your particular circumstances.
> 
> If you have any questions or comments let me know.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Greg


I built one:



It works very-well, but if I had to do it again I'd make it wider for cutting wider stock.


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