# Kitchen Treasures #1 Making the Celtic Knot Rolling Pin



## lew

*The Jigs*

I have had so many positive comments and feedback on the Celtic Knot Rolling Pin. Thank you for all of them. Many LumberJocks asked for instructions on how they are made- so here goes. I am a fan of "Cook Book" style instructions so if I miss any details, please let me know and I will try to flesh them out.

I thought it best to start with the jigs I used to prepare the turning blanks. Please note that I always over engineer everything and hardly ever see the obvious or the easy way to do something so if you see an easier way- go for it!

The first jig is one I made a while back, when I first started thinking about this project. I try to make jigs that have several uses. This one was also used to make the Cheese Knife Handles project.

*Special Diagonal Cutting Jig*










Sled has 2 movable fences to change the angle of the cut and position of the blank










Originally jig slid over the rip fence. Later modified to ride in miter slot for accurate repetitive cuts.

Two spacer strips on the sled needed for cleaning out the diagonal cut (more later)

Disassembled Fences










Toggle clamp holds blank during cutting operation

Partially Assembled Fences










*Normal Taper Jig*

During the blank assembly, it is necessary to trim waste material before proceeding to the next step. This simple tapering jig holds the blank for those cuts.










More details for this jig can be seen at http://lumberjocks.com/projects/7848

That's a start. More in a day or so.

Lew


----------



## woodworkersguide

lew said:


> *The Jigs*
> 
> I have had so many positive comments and feedback on the Celtic Knot Rolling Pin. Thank you for all of them. Many LumberJocks asked for instructions on how they are made- so here goes. I am a fan of "Cook Book" style instructions so if I miss any details, please let me know and I will try to flesh them out.
> 
> I thought it best to start with the jigs I used to prepare the turning blanks. Please note that I always over engineer everything and hardly ever see the obvious or the easy way to do something so if you see an easier way- go for it!
> 
> The first jig is one I made a while back, when I first started thinking about this project. I try to make jigs that have several uses. This one was also used to make the Cheese Knife Handles project.
> 
> *Special Diagonal Cutting Jig*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sled has 2 movable fences to change the angle of the cut and position of the blank
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Originally jig slid over the rip fence. Later modified to ride in miter slot for accurate repetitive cuts.
> 
> Two spacer strips on the sled needed for cleaning out the diagonal cut (more later)
> 
> Disassembled Fences
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Toggle clamp holds blank during cutting operation
> 
> Partially Assembled Fences
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Normal Taper Jig*
> 
> During the blank assembly, it is necessary to trim waste material before proceeding to the next step. This simple tapering jig holds the blank for those cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More details for this jig can be seen at http://lumberjocks.com/projects/7848
> 
> That's a start. More in a day or so.
> 
> Lew


Hey, Lew, thanks! Looking forward to the series. Great stuff!


----------



## Karson

lew said:


> *The Jigs*
> 
> I have had so many positive comments and feedback on the Celtic Knot Rolling Pin. Thank you for all of them. Many LumberJocks asked for instructions on how they are made- so here goes. I am a fan of "Cook Book" style instructions so if I miss any details, please let me know and I will try to flesh them out.
> 
> I thought it best to start with the jigs I used to prepare the turning blanks. Please note that I always over engineer everything and hardly ever see the obvious or the easy way to do something so if you see an easier way- go for it!
> 
> The first jig is one I made a while back, when I first started thinking about this project. I try to make jigs that have several uses. This one was also used to make the Cheese Knife Handles project.
> 
> *Special Diagonal Cutting Jig*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sled has 2 movable fences to change the angle of the cut and position of the blank
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Originally jig slid over the rip fence. Later modified to ride in miter slot for accurate repetitive cuts.
> 
> Two spacer strips on the sled needed for cleaning out the diagonal cut (more later)
> 
> Disassembled Fences
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Toggle clamp holds blank during cutting operation
> 
> Partially Assembled Fences
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Normal Taper Jig*
> 
> During the blank assembly, it is necessary to trim waste material before proceeding to the next step. This simple tapering jig holds the blank for those cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More details for this jig can be seen at http://lumberjocks.com/projects/7848
> 
> That's a start. More in a day or so.
> 
> Lew


Great job on the rolling pin. And thanks for the blog on the jig.


----------



## RobH

lew said:


> *The Jigs*
> 
> I have had so many positive comments and feedback on the Celtic Knot Rolling Pin. Thank you for all of them. Many LumberJocks asked for instructions on how they are made- so here goes. I am a fan of "Cook Book" style instructions so if I miss any details, please let me know and I will try to flesh them out.
> 
> I thought it best to start with the jigs I used to prepare the turning blanks. Please note that I always over engineer everything and hardly ever see the obvious or the easy way to do something so if you see an easier way- go for it!
> 
> The first jig is one I made a while back, when I first started thinking about this project. I try to make jigs that have several uses. This one was also used to make the Cheese Knife Handles project.
> 
> *Special Diagonal Cutting Jig*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sled has 2 movable fences to change the angle of the cut and position of the blank
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Originally jig slid over the rip fence. Later modified to ride in miter slot for accurate repetitive cuts.
> 
> Two spacer strips on the sled needed for cleaning out the diagonal cut (more later)
> 
> Disassembled Fences
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Toggle clamp holds blank during cutting operation
> 
> Partially Assembled Fences
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Normal Taper Jig*
> 
> During the blank assembly, it is necessary to trim waste material before proceeding to the next step. This simple tapering jig holds the blank for those cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More details for this jig can be seen at http://lumberjocks.com/projects/7848
> 
> That's a start. More in a day or so.
> 
> Lew


Lew,

Thanks for the post. I am excited about learning how to do that. I just started turning and I want to learn to lay-up blanks like that. I think they are beautiful. I find it truly amazing what we can make wood do.


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## MrWoody

lew said:


> *The Jigs*
> 
> I have had so many positive comments and feedback on the Celtic Knot Rolling Pin. Thank you for all of them. Many LumberJocks asked for instructions on how they are made- so here goes. I am a fan of "Cook Book" style instructions so if I miss any details, please let me know and I will try to flesh them out.
> 
> I thought it best to start with the jigs I used to prepare the turning blanks. Please note that I always over engineer everything and hardly ever see the obvious or the easy way to do something so if you see an easier way- go for it!
> 
> The first jig is one I made a while back, when I first started thinking about this project. I try to make jigs that have several uses. This one was also used to make the Cheese Knife Handles project.
> 
> *Special Diagonal Cutting Jig*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sled has 2 movable fences to change the angle of the cut and position of the blank
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Originally jig slid over the rip fence. Later modified to ride in miter slot for accurate repetitive cuts.
> 
> Two spacer strips on the sled needed for cleaning out the diagonal cut (more later)
> 
> Disassembled Fences
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Toggle clamp holds blank during cutting operation
> 
> Partially Assembled Fences
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Normal Taper Jig*
> 
> During the blank assembly, it is necessary to trim waste material before proceeding to the next step. This simple tapering jig holds the blank for those cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More details for this jig can be seen at http://lumberjocks.com/projects/7848
> 
> That's a start. More in a day or so.
> 
> Lew


Lew, I'm looking forward to this series. The rolling pin looked great.


----------



## Ottis

lew said:


> *The Jigs*
> 
> I have had so many positive comments and feedback on the Celtic Knot Rolling Pin. Thank you for all of them. Many LumberJocks asked for instructions on how they are made- so here goes. I am a fan of "Cook Book" style instructions so if I miss any details, please let me know and I will try to flesh them out.
> 
> I thought it best to start with the jigs I used to prepare the turning blanks. Please note that I always over engineer everything and hardly ever see the obvious or the easy way to do something so if you see an easier way- go for it!
> 
> The first jig is one I made a while back, when I first started thinking about this project. I try to make jigs that have several uses. This one was also used to make the Cheese Knife Handles project.
> 
> *Special Diagonal Cutting Jig*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sled has 2 movable fences to change the angle of the cut and position of the blank
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Originally jig slid over the rip fence. Later modified to ride in miter slot for accurate repetitive cuts.
> 
> Two spacer strips on the sled needed for cleaning out the diagonal cut (more later)
> 
> Disassembled Fences
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Toggle clamp holds blank during cutting operation
> 
> Partially Assembled Fences
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Normal Taper Jig*
> 
> During the blank assembly, it is necessary to trim waste material before proceeding to the next step. This simple tapering jig holds the blank for those cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More details for this jig can be seen at http://lumberjocks.com/projects/7848
> 
> That's a start. More in a day or so.
> 
> Lew


Lew…Thanks for the link….I look forward to the series also !!!


----------



## Mars72

lew said:


> *The Jigs*
> 
> I have had so many positive comments and feedback on the Celtic Knot Rolling Pin. Thank you for all of them. Many LumberJocks asked for instructions on how they are made- so here goes. I am a fan of "Cook Book" style instructions so if I miss any details, please let me know and I will try to flesh them out.
> 
> I thought it best to start with the jigs I used to prepare the turning blanks. Please note that I always over engineer everything and hardly ever see the obvious or the easy way to do something so if you see an easier way- go for it!
> 
> The first jig is one I made a while back, when I first started thinking about this project. I try to make jigs that have several uses. This one was also used to make the Cheese Knife Handles project.
> 
> *Special Diagonal Cutting Jig*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sled has 2 movable fences to change the angle of the cut and position of the blank
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Originally jig slid over the rip fence. Later modified to ride in miter slot for accurate repetitive cuts.
> 
> Two spacer strips on the sled needed for cleaning out the diagonal cut (more later)
> 
> Disassembled Fences
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Toggle clamp holds blank during cutting operation
> 
> Partially Assembled Fences
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Normal Taper Jig*
> 
> During the blank assembly, it is necessary to trim waste material before proceeding to the next step. This simple tapering jig holds the blank for those cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More details for this jig can be seen at http://lumberjocks.com/projects/7848
> 
> That's a start. More in a day or so.
> 
> Lew


Hi Lew, I love this design. Do you have more detailed drawings of the Diagonal Cutting Jig?


----------



## lew

lew said:


> *The Jigs*
> 
> I have had so many positive comments and feedback on the Celtic Knot Rolling Pin. Thank you for all of them. Many LumberJocks asked for instructions on how they are made- so here goes. I am a fan of "Cook Book" style instructions so if I miss any details, please let me know and I will try to flesh them out.
> 
> I thought it best to start with the jigs I used to prepare the turning blanks. Please note that I always over engineer everything and hardly ever see the obvious or the easy way to do something so if you see an easier way- go for it!
> 
> The first jig is one I made a while back, when I first started thinking about this project. I try to make jigs that have several uses. This one was also used to make the Cheese Knife Handles project.
> 
> *Special Diagonal Cutting Jig*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sled has 2 movable fences to change the angle of the cut and position of the blank
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Originally jig slid over the rip fence. Later modified to ride in miter slot for accurate repetitive cuts.
> 
> Two spacer strips on the sled needed for cleaning out the diagonal cut (more later)
> 
> Disassembled Fences
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Toggle clamp holds blank during cutting operation
> 
> Partially Assembled Fences
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Normal Taper Jig*
> 
> During the blank assembly, it is necessary to trim waste material before proceeding to the next step. This simple tapering jig holds the blank for those cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More details for this jig can be seen at http://lumberjocks.com/projects/7848
> 
> That's a start. More in a day or so.
> 
> Lew


Hope nobody minds, I have entered this blog series into the Kitchen Treasures Contest.

Lew


----------



## fernandoindia

lew said:


> *The Jigs*
> 
> I have had so many positive comments and feedback on the Celtic Knot Rolling Pin. Thank you for all of them. Many LumberJocks asked for instructions on how they are made- so here goes. I am a fan of "Cook Book" style instructions so if I miss any details, please let me know and I will try to flesh them out.
> 
> I thought it best to start with the jigs I used to prepare the turning blanks. Please note that I always over engineer everything and hardly ever see the obvious or the easy way to do something so if you see an easier way- go for it!
> 
> The first jig is one I made a while back, when I first started thinking about this project. I try to make jigs that have several uses. This one was also used to make the Cheese Knife Handles project.
> 
> *Special Diagonal Cutting Jig*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sled has 2 movable fences to change the angle of the cut and position of the blank
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Originally jig slid over the rip fence. Later modified to ride in miter slot for accurate repetitive cuts.
> 
> Two spacer strips on the sled needed for cleaning out the diagonal cut (more later)
> 
> Disassembled Fences
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Toggle clamp holds blank during cutting operation
> 
> Partially Assembled Fences
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Normal Taper Jig*
> 
> During the blank assembly, it is necessary to trim waste material before proceeding to the next step. This simple tapering jig holds the blank for those cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More details for this jig can be seen at http://lumberjocks.com/projects/7848
> 
> That's a start. More in a day or so.
> 
> Lew


Hey Lew. I don´t mind at all. For sure it´s going to be difficult to compete in the rolling pin area with you.

So, what do you think about a toothpick blog !!


----------



## lew

lew said:


> *The Jigs*
> 
> I have had so many positive comments and feedback on the Celtic Knot Rolling Pin. Thank you for all of them. Many LumberJocks asked for instructions on how they are made- so here goes. I am a fan of "Cook Book" style instructions so if I miss any details, please let me know and I will try to flesh them out.
> 
> I thought it best to start with the jigs I used to prepare the turning blanks. Please note that I always over engineer everything and hardly ever see the obvious or the easy way to do something so if you see an easier way- go for it!
> 
> The first jig is one I made a while back, when I first started thinking about this project. I try to make jigs that have several uses. This one was also used to make the Cheese Knife Handles project.
> 
> *Special Diagonal Cutting Jig*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sled has 2 movable fences to change the angle of the cut and position of the blank
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Originally jig slid over the rip fence. Later modified to ride in miter slot for accurate repetitive cuts.
> 
> Two spacer strips on the sled needed for cleaning out the diagonal cut (more later)
> 
> Disassembled Fences
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Toggle clamp holds blank during cutting operation
> 
> Partially Assembled Fences
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Normal Taper Jig*
> 
> During the blank assembly, it is necessary to trim waste material before proceeding to the next step. This simple tapering jig holds the blank for those cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More details for this jig can be seen at http://lumberjocks.com/projects/7848
> 
> That's a start. More in a day or so.
> 
> Lew


Sound like a winner!! Toothpicks of every imaginable wood!


----------



## GenuineGeek

lew said:


> *The Jigs*
> 
> I have had so many positive comments and feedback on the Celtic Knot Rolling Pin. Thank you for all of them. Many LumberJocks asked for instructions on how they are made- so here goes. I am a fan of "Cook Book" style instructions so if I miss any details, please let me know and I will try to flesh them out.
> 
> I thought it best to start with the jigs I used to prepare the turning blanks. Please note that I always over engineer everything and hardly ever see the obvious or the easy way to do something so if you see an easier way- go for it!
> 
> The first jig is one I made a while back, when I first started thinking about this project. I try to make jigs that have several uses. This one was also used to make the Cheese Knife Handles project.
> 
> *Special Diagonal Cutting Jig*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sled has 2 movable fences to change the angle of the cut and position of the blank
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Originally jig slid over the rip fence. Later modified to ride in miter slot for accurate repetitive cuts.
> 
> Two spacer strips on the sled needed for cleaning out the diagonal cut (more later)
> 
> Disassembled Fences
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Toggle clamp holds blank during cutting operation
> 
> Partially Assembled Fences
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Normal Taper Jig*
> 
> During the blank assembly, it is necessary to trim waste material before proceeding to the next step. This simple tapering jig holds the blank for those cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More details for this jig can be seen at http://lumberjocks.com/projects/7848
> 
> That's a start. More in a day or so.
> 
> Lew


This is wonderful. I will definitely be building a jig something like that if I ever want to do another run of rolling pins. THANKS for posting it.


----------



## rockingk

lew said:


> *The Jigs*
> 
> I have had so many positive comments and feedback on the Celtic Knot Rolling Pin. Thank you for all of them. Many LumberJocks asked for instructions on how they are made- so here goes. I am a fan of "Cook Book" style instructions so if I miss any details, please let me know and I will try to flesh them out.
> 
> I thought it best to start with the jigs I used to prepare the turning blanks. Please note that I always over engineer everything and hardly ever see the obvious or the easy way to do something so if you see an easier way- go for it!
> 
> The first jig is one I made a while back, when I first started thinking about this project. I try to make jigs that have several uses. This one was also used to make the Cheese Knife Handles project.
> 
> *Special Diagonal Cutting Jig*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sled has 2 movable fences to change the angle of the cut and position of the blank
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Originally jig slid over the rip fence. Later modified to ride in miter slot for accurate repetitive cuts.
> 
> Two spacer strips on the sled needed for cleaning out the diagonal cut (more later)
> 
> Disassembled Fences
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Toggle clamp holds blank during cutting operation
> 
> Partially Assembled Fences
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Normal Taper Jig*
> 
> During the blank assembly, it is necessary to trim waste material before proceeding to the next step. This simple tapering jig holds the blank for those cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More details for this jig can be seen at http://lumberjocks.com/projects/7848
> 
> That's a start. More in a day or so.
> 
> Lew


im just learning about this rolling pens and it sounds great. thank you


----------



## lew

lew said:


> *The Jigs*
> 
> I have had so many positive comments and feedback on the Celtic Knot Rolling Pin. Thank you for all of them. Many LumberJocks asked for instructions on how they are made- so here goes. I am a fan of "Cook Book" style instructions so if I miss any details, please let me know and I will try to flesh them out.
> 
> I thought it best to start with the jigs I used to prepare the turning blanks. Please note that I always over engineer everything and hardly ever see the obvious or the easy way to do something so if you see an easier way- go for it!
> 
> The first jig is one I made a while back, when I first started thinking about this project. I try to make jigs that have several uses. This one was also used to make the Cheese Knife Handles project.
> 
> *Special Diagonal Cutting Jig*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sled has 2 movable fences to change the angle of the cut and position of the blank
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Originally jig slid over the rip fence. Later modified to ride in miter slot for accurate repetitive cuts.
> 
> Two spacer strips on the sled needed for cleaning out the diagonal cut (more later)
> 
> Disassembled Fences
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Toggle clamp holds blank during cutting operation
> 
> Partially Assembled Fences
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Normal Taper Jig*
> 
> During the blank assembly, it is necessary to trim waste material before proceeding to the next step. This simple tapering jig holds the blank for those cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More details for this jig can be seen at http://lumberjocks.com/projects/7848
> 
> That's a start. More in a day or so.
> 
> Lew


Rockingk,
Any questions, just ask!


----------



## lew

*Laying Out the Blank*

This second part will concentrate on the layout of the rolling pin blank in preparation for cutting the slots. Create a blank that is 22" long and 2" square. 
Locate the center of the length (11") and carry a line around the blank. 
The ellipses are 11" long and made of three pieces of 1/8" thick material
Layout a mark 5 ½" on either side of the center line and accurately carry the lines around the blank.










To assist in laying out the diagonals, use a 3/8" thick spacer gauge, drawing lines on the blank, along BOTH sides of the spacer gauge. It is not necessary to layout both diagonals on each side. However, a check of the second diagonal will indicate if the layout is accurate and crossing in the center of the blank.

NOTE: the cut for the diagonal strips falls within the 11" layout lines



















Checking the diagonals for centered layout










Rotate the blank 90 degrees and layout the location on the next diagonal cut.
Continue rotating and drawing the diagonals until all four sides have been completed.

Each diagonal consisted of two drawn lines. One line intersected with the layout line that defined the end of the ellipse. The second diagonal line ends "short" of the ellipse layout line. The location of the end, of this diagonal line, must be carried around the blank. These lines define the location of the saw cuts for the strips that create the ellipse.










Accuracy is important when laying out these lines in order to get the ellipses to maintain continuity.

This drawing is *not* to scale. The measurements are what I used to make this rolling pin. The length and diameters were averaged from various baking supply web sites for their rolling pins.










I will try to post more in a day or so.

Lew


----------



## trifern

lew said:


> *Laying Out the Blank*
> 
> This second part will concentrate on the layout of the rolling pin blank in preparation for cutting the slots. Create a blank that is 22" long and 2" square.
> Locate the center of the length (11") and carry a line around the blank.
> The ellipses are 11" long and made of three pieces of 1/8" thick material
> Layout a mark 5 ½" on either side of the center line and accurately carry the lines around the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To assist in laying out the diagonals, use a 3/8" thick spacer gauge, drawing lines on the blank, along BOTH sides of the spacer gauge. It is not necessary to layout both diagonals on each side. However, a check of the second diagonal will indicate if the layout is accurate and crossing in the center of the blank.
> 
> NOTE: the cut for the diagonal strips falls within the 11" layout lines
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Checking the diagonals for centered layout
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rotate the blank 90 degrees and layout the location on the next diagonal cut.
> Continue rotating and drawing the diagonals until all four sides have been completed.
> 
> Each diagonal consisted of two drawn lines. One line intersected with the layout line that defined the end of the ellipse. The second diagonal line ends "short" of the ellipse layout line. The location of the end, of this diagonal line, must be carried around the blank. These lines define the location of the saw cuts for the strips that create the ellipse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Accuracy is important when laying out these lines in order to get the ellipses to maintain continuity.
> 
> This drawing is *not* to scale. The measurements are what I used to make this rolling pin. The length and diameters were averaged from various baking supply web sites for their rolling pins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will try to post more in a day or so.
> 
> Lew


Thanks for the tutorial Lew. I may have to try one.


----------



## Karson

lew said:


> *Laying Out the Blank*
> 
> This second part will concentrate on the layout of the rolling pin blank in preparation for cutting the slots. Create a blank that is 22" long and 2" square.
> Locate the center of the length (11") and carry a line around the blank.
> The ellipses are 11" long and made of three pieces of 1/8" thick material
> Layout a mark 5 ½" on either side of the center line and accurately carry the lines around the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To assist in laying out the diagonals, use a 3/8" thick spacer gauge, drawing lines on the blank, along BOTH sides of the spacer gauge. It is not necessary to layout both diagonals on each side. However, a check of the second diagonal will indicate if the layout is accurate and crossing in the center of the blank.
> 
> NOTE: the cut for the diagonal strips falls within the 11" layout lines
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Checking the diagonals for centered layout
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rotate the blank 90 degrees and layout the location on the next diagonal cut.
> Continue rotating and drawing the diagonals until all four sides have been completed.
> 
> Each diagonal consisted of two drawn lines. One line intersected with the layout line that defined the end of the ellipse. The second diagonal line ends "short" of the ellipse layout line. The location of the end, of this diagonal line, must be carried around the blank. These lines define the location of the saw cuts for the strips that create the ellipse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Accuracy is important when laying out these lines in order to get the ellipses to maintain continuity.
> 
> This drawing is *not* to scale. The measurements are what I used to make this rolling pin. The length and diameters were averaged from various baking supply web sites for their rolling pins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will try to post more in a day or so.
> 
> Lew


Great shots Lew. Thanks for the tutorial


----------



## Betsy

lew said:


> *Laying Out the Blank*
> 
> This second part will concentrate on the layout of the rolling pin blank in preparation for cutting the slots. Create a blank that is 22" long and 2" square.
> Locate the center of the length (11") and carry a line around the blank.
> The ellipses are 11" long and made of three pieces of 1/8" thick material
> Layout a mark 5 ½" on either side of the center line and accurately carry the lines around the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To assist in laying out the diagonals, use a 3/8" thick spacer gauge, drawing lines on the blank, along BOTH sides of the spacer gauge. It is not necessary to layout both diagonals on each side. However, a check of the second diagonal will indicate if the layout is accurate and crossing in the center of the blank.
> 
> NOTE: the cut for the diagonal strips falls within the 11" layout lines
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Checking the diagonals for centered layout
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rotate the blank 90 degrees and layout the location on the next diagonal cut.
> Continue rotating and drawing the diagonals until all four sides have been completed.
> 
> Each diagonal consisted of two drawn lines. One line intersected with the layout line that defined the end of the ellipse. The second diagonal line ends "short" of the ellipse layout line. The location of the end, of this diagonal line, must be carried around the blank. These lines define the location of the saw cuts for the strips that create the ellipse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Accuracy is important when laying out these lines in order to get the ellipses to maintain continuity.
> 
> This drawing is *not* to scale. The measurements are what I used to make this rolling pin. The length and diameters were averaged from various baking supply web sites for their rolling pins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will try to post more in a day or so.
> 
> Lew


Looks complicated--looking forward to more of the tutorial. These types of projects always amaze this lady that does squares and rectangulars mostly.


----------



## matt1970

lew said:


> *Laying Out the Blank*
> 
> This second part will concentrate on the layout of the rolling pin blank in preparation for cutting the slots. Create a blank that is 22" long and 2" square.
> Locate the center of the length (11") and carry a line around the blank.
> The ellipses are 11" long and made of three pieces of 1/8" thick material
> Layout a mark 5 ½" on either side of the center line and accurately carry the lines around the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To assist in laying out the diagonals, use a 3/8" thick spacer gauge, drawing lines on the blank, along BOTH sides of the spacer gauge. It is not necessary to layout both diagonals on each side. However, a check of the second diagonal will indicate if the layout is accurate and crossing in the center of the blank.
> 
> NOTE: the cut for the diagonal strips falls within the 11" layout lines
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Checking the diagonals for centered layout
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rotate the blank 90 degrees and layout the location on the next diagonal cut.
> Continue rotating and drawing the diagonals until all four sides have been completed.
> 
> Each diagonal consisted of two drawn lines. One line intersected with the layout line that defined the end of the ellipse. The second diagonal line ends "short" of the ellipse layout line. The location of the end, of this diagonal line, must be carried around the blank. These lines define the location of the saw cuts for the strips that create the ellipse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Accuracy is important when laying out these lines in order to get the ellipses to maintain continuity.
> 
> This drawing is *not* to scale. The measurements are what I used to make this rolling pin. The length and diameters were averaged from various baking supply web sites for their rolling pins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will try to post more in a day or so.
> 
> Lew


very cool….


----------



## lew

*Making the Saw Cuts For the Strips*

Once the blank has the layout lines drawn, it is time to cut the slots for the ellipses.

The first step is to set the blade height. When the cut is made, there should be about 1/8" of material left holding the two sides together.










This really aids in the glue up by keeping the pieces aligned.

Set the blank on the jig and adjust the angle and the end stop so that the front *SHORTER* layout line is positioned to the *LEFT* side of the blade cut. Orientation is when you are standing at the back of the saw looking forward. (These pictures are from the SIDES of the saw).










Continue to adjust the angle and the end stop so that the rear *LONGER* layout line is positioned to the *LEFT* side of the blade cut.










Securely tighten all adjustments. Once these angles/lengths are set, they will not change for all of the remaining cuts.

Clamp the blank firmly in the jig. Double check the layout lines.

In order to keep the correct orientation of the blank, I labeled the end of the blank nearest me.

With everything secure, make the first cut.

Unclamp the blank.

To make the second cut, I made a space strip to reposition the blank without having to change any of the jig setting. My first guess was that this spacer would be 3/8" thick- the same as the width of the finished cut. *BUT* that was too thick. I guess there is a way to calculate the thickness but trial and error won out. It came out closer to 1/4" (.265").

The second cut is made with the blank position so that the front *LONGER* layout line is on the *RIGHT* side of the saw cut.










The rear *SHORTER* layout line is on the *RIGHT* side of the saw cut.










The walnut spacer strip can be seen between the blank and the fence of the jig. The thickness of the spacer strip could be different for each person. So check the setup carefully. Also, Make sure the blank butts up against the end stop before each cut.

After the second cut has been made, there may be a thin piece of material left in the slot. I made another spacer- about 1/8"- replaced the first spacer and made a third "clean out" pass.

The finished cut should be 3/8" wide and almost through the blank.




























Part #4 will cover the first glue up and trim- maybe later today or tomorrow.

Thanks for reading!

Lew


----------



## matt1970

lew said:


> *Making the Saw Cuts For the Strips*
> 
> Once the blank has the layout lines drawn, it is time to cut the slots for the ellipses.
> 
> The first step is to set the blade height. When the cut is made, there should be about 1/8" of material left holding the two sides together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This really aids in the glue up by keeping the pieces aligned.
> 
> Set the blank on the jig and adjust the angle and the end stop so that the front *SHORTER* layout line is positioned to the *LEFT* side of the blade cut. Orientation is when you are standing at the back of the saw looking forward. (These pictures are from the SIDES of the saw).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue to adjust the angle and the end stop so that the rear *LONGER* layout line is positioned to the *LEFT* side of the blade cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Securely tighten all adjustments. Once these angles/lengths are set, they will not change for all of the remaining cuts.
> 
> Clamp the blank firmly in the jig. Double check the layout lines.
> 
> In order to keep the correct orientation of the blank, I labeled the end of the blank nearest me.
> 
> With everything secure, make the first cut.
> 
> Unclamp the blank.
> 
> To make the second cut, I made a space strip to reposition the blank without having to change any of the jig setting. My first guess was that this spacer would be 3/8" thick- the same as the width of the finished cut. *BUT* that was too thick. I guess there is a way to calculate the thickness but trial and error won out. It came out closer to 1/4" (.265").
> 
> The second cut is made with the blank position so that the front *LONGER* layout line is on the *RIGHT* side of the saw cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The rear *SHORTER* layout line is on the *RIGHT* side of the saw cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The walnut spacer strip can be seen between the blank and the fence of the jig. The thickness of the spacer strip could be different for each person. So check the setup carefully. Also, Make sure the blank butts up against the end stop before each cut.
> 
> After the second cut has been made, there may be a thin piece of material left in the slot. I made another spacer- about 1/8"- replaced the first spacer and made a third "clean out" pass.
> 
> The finished cut should be 3/8" wide and almost through the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Part #4 will cover the first glue up and trim- maybe later today or tomorrow.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Lew


cant wait to see the next step when you get a chance…looking good


----------



## MrWoody

lew said:


> *Making the Saw Cuts For the Strips*
> 
> Once the blank has the layout lines drawn, it is time to cut the slots for the ellipses.
> 
> The first step is to set the blade height. When the cut is made, there should be about 1/8" of material left holding the two sides together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This really aids in the glue up by keeping the pieces aligned.
> 
> Set the blank on the jig and adjust the angle and the end stop so that the front *SHORTER* layout line is positioned to the *LEFT* side of the blade cut. Orientation is when you are standing at the back of the saw looking forward. (These pictures are from the SIDES of the saw).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue to adjust the angle and the end stop so that the rear *LONGER* layout line is positioned to the *LEFT* side of the blade cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Securely tighten all adjustments. Once these angles/lengths are set, they will not change for all of the remaining cuts.
> 
> Clamp the blank firmly in the jig. Double check the layout lines.
> 
> In order to keep the correct orientation of the blank, I labeled the end of the blank nearest me.
> 
> With everything secure, make the first cut.
> 
> Unclamp the blank.
> 
> To make the second cut, I made a space strip to reposition the blank without having to change any of the jig setting. My first guess was that this spacer would be 3/8" thick- the same as the width of the finished cut. *BUT* that was too thick. I guess there is a way to calculate the thickness but trial and error won out. It came out closer to 1/4" (.265").
> 
> The second cut is made with the blank position so that the front *LONGER* layout line is on the *RIGHT* side of the saw cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The rear *SHORTER* layout line is on the *RIGHT* side of the saw cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The walnut spacer strip can be seen between the blank and the fence of the jig. The thickness of the spacer strip could be different for each person. So check the setup carefully. Also, Make sure the blank butts up against the end stop before each cut.
> 
> After the second cut has been made, there may be a thin piece of material left in the slot. I made another spacer- about 1/8"- replaced the first spacer and made a third "clean out" pass.
> 
> The finished cut should be 3/8" wide and almost through the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Part #4 will cover the first glue up and trim- maybe later today or tomorrow.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Lew


keep'em coming


----------



## Karson

lew said:


> *Making the Saw Cuts For the Strips*
> 
> Once the blank has the layout lines drawn, it is time to cut the slots for the ellipses.
> 
> The first step is to set the blade height. When the cut is made, there should be about 1/8" of material left holding the two sides together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This really aids in the glue up by keeping the pieces aligned.
> 
> Set the blank on the jig and adjust the angle and the end stop so that the front *SHORTER* layout line is positioned to the *LEFT* side of the blade cut. Orientation is when you are standing at the back of the saw looking forward. (These pictures are from the SIDES of the saw).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue to adjust the angle and the end stop so that the rear *LONGER* layout line is positioned to the *LEFT* side of the blade cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Securely tighten all adjustments. Once these angles/lengths are set, they will not change for all of the remaining cuts.
> 
> Clamp the blank firmly in the jig. Double check the layout lines.
> 
> In order to keep the correct orientation of the blank, I labeled the end of the blank nearest me.
> 
> With everything secure, make the first cut.
> 
> Unclamp the blank.
> 
> To make the second cut, I made a space strip to reposition the blank without having to change any of the jig setting. My first guess was that this spacer would be 3/8" thick- the same as the width of the finished cut. *BUT* that was too thick. I guess there is a way to calculate the thickness but trial and error won out. It came out closer to 1/4" (.265").
> 
> The second cut is made with the blank position so that the front *LONGER* layout line is on the *RIGHT* side of the saw cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The rear *SHORTER* layout line is on the *RIGHT* side of the saw cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The walnut spacer strip can be seen between the blank and the fence of the jig. The thickness of the spacer strip could be different for each person. So check the setup carefully. Also, Make sure the blank butts up against the end stop before each cut.
> 
> After the second cut has been made, there may be a thin piece of material left in the slot. I made another spacer- about 1/8"- replaced the first spacer and made a third "clean out" pass.
> 
> The finished cut should be 3/8" wide and almost through the blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Part #4 will cover the first glue up and trim- maybe later today or tomorrow.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Lew


Lew Thanks for this blog. A great tutorial, of your learning curve.

Thanks.


----------



## lew

*Glue Up and Trimming The Blank- The Final Steps*

Before starting this section, I forgot to add to pix into the previous post.

This is the spacer strip used to reposition the blanks for the second cut. The spacer goes between the blank and the fence.










This shows the blank seated against the rear stop and the blank is labeled to assure it is not reversed during the various cutting operations.










I found it easier to glue if I oriented the blank with the diagonal cut facing up. I use an old restaurant cutting board as a gluing work surface and pieces of the cutting board as culls and pads. In this picture, you can see the three strips to be glued into place. They measure 2" x 10 3/4" x 1/8". Test fit the pieces first to make sure they will seat into the slot.










On my first attempt, I didn't use enough clamps- using more clamps and culls assured that all of the joints were tight. I probably overdid it with the amount of glue. A liberal coat over all mating surfaces.










Clamped up










After the glue has dried and the clamps removed, the blank is ready for trimming.










I put the blank on my tapering jig and set it for no taper. The jig is used to hold the piece to trim off the excess material. This assures the piece will sit flat for the next diagonal cutting operation.










Trim the blank, rotate and re-clamp










Trim, rotate an trim again.










At this point it is a good idea to "sweeten up" the layout lines, if the trimming operation removed them.

Now it is just a matter of re-mounting the blank on the diagonal cutting jig and repeating the operations for making the second diagonal slot.

The diagonal slots, glue ups and trimming operations are the same for each of the remaining three sides.



















Word of caution here- if you have to change the blade height during the trimming operation, be certain to reset it before the diagonal slot cutting operation!

After the four sides are cut, glued and trimmed.










On the lathe, ready to be turned.










The final dimensions on this rolling pin were: 20" long; diameter at the center: 1 9/16"; diameter at the ends : 1 1/4". I have tried two types of tapers. One started at the center and continued to the ends. The other starts at the ends of the ellipses and continues to the ends. Personal preferences will determine the tapers.

Again, thanks everyone for your encouragement and help in my quest to create this. I really could not have done it without your help!

Any questions, comments and criticisms are always welcome.

Lew


----------



## trifern

lew said:


> *Glue Up and Trimming The Blank- The Final Steps*
> 
> Before starting this section, I forgot to add to pix into the previous post.
> 
> This is the spacer strip used to reposition the blanks for the second cut. The spacer goes between the blank and the fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows the blank seated against the rear stop and the blank is labeled to assure it is not reversed during the various cutting operations.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found it easier to glue if I oriented the blank with the diagonal cut facing up. I use an old restaurant cutting board as a gluing work surface and pieces of the cutting board as culls and pads. In this picture, you can see the three strips to be glued into place. They measure 2" x 10 3/4" x 1/8". Test fit the pieces first to make sure they will seat into the slot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my first attempt, I didn't use enough clamps- using more clamps and culls assured that all of the joints were tight. I probably overdid it with the amount of glue. A liberal coat over all mating surfaces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue has dried and the clamps removed, the blank is ready for trimming.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the blank on my tapering jig and set it for no taper. The jig is used to hold the piece to trim off the excess material. This assures the piece will sit flat for the next diagonal cutting operation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trim the blank, rotate and re-clamp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trim, rotate an trim again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point it is a good idea to "sweeten up" the layout lines, if the trimming operation removed them.
> 
> Now it is just a matter of re-mounting the blank on the diagonal cutting jig and repeating the operations for making the second diagonal slot.
> 
> The diagonal slots, glue ups and trimming operations are the same for each of the remaining three sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Word of caution here- if you have to change the blade height during the trimming operation, be certain to reset it before the diagonal slot cutting operation!
> 
> After the four sides are cut, glued and trimmed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the lathe, ready to be turned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final dimensions on this rolling pin were: 20" long; diameter at the center: 1 9/16"; diameter at the ends : 1 1/4". I have tried two types of tapers. One started at the center and continued to the ends. The other starts at the ends of the ellipses and continues to the ends. Personal preferences will determine the tapers.
> 
> Again, thanks everyone for your encouragement and help in my quest to create this. I really could not have done it without your help!
> 
> Any questions, comments and criticisms are always welcome.
> 
> Lew


Great blog Lew, thanks for sharing.


----------



## Karson

lew said:


> *Glue Up and Trimming The Blank- The Final Steps*
> 
> Before starting this section, I forgot to add to pix into the previous post.
> 
> This is the spacer strip used to reposition the blanks for the second cut. The spacer goes between the blank and the fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows the blank seated against the rear stop and the blank is labeled to assure it is not reversed during the various cutting operations.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found it easier to glue if I oriented the blank with the diagonal cut facing up. I use an old restaurant cutting board as a gluing work surface and pieces of the cutting board as culls and pads. In this picture, you can see the three strips to be glued into place. They measure 2" x 10 3/4" x 1/8". Test fit the pieces first to make sure they will seat into the slot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my first attempt, I didn't use enough clamps- using more clamps and culls assured that all of the joints were tight. I probably overdid it with the amount of glue. A liberal coat over all mating surfaces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue has dried and the clamps removed, the blank is ready for trimming.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the blank on my tapering jig and set it for no taper. The jig is used to hold the piece to trim off the excess material. This assures the piece will sit flat for the next diagonal cutting operation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trim the blank, rotate and re-clamp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trim, rotate an trim again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point it is a good idea to "sweeten up" the layout lines, if the trimming operation removed them.
> 
> Now it is just a matter of re-mounting the blank on the diagonal cutting jig and repeating the operations for making the second diagonal slot.
> 
> The diagonal slots, glue ups and trimming operations are the same for each of the remaining three sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Word of caution here- if you have to change the blade height during the trimming operation, be certain to reset it before the diagonal slot cutting operation!
> 
> After the four sides are cut, glued and trimmed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the lathe, ready to be turned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final dimensions on this rolling pin were: 20" long; diameter at the center: 1 9/16"; diameter at the ends : 1 1/4". I have tried two types of tapers. One started at the center and continued to the ends. The other starts at the ends of the ellipses and continues to the ends. Personal preferences will determine the tapers.
> 
> Again, thanks everyone for your encouragement and help in my quest to create this. I really could not have done it without your help!
> 
> Any questions, comments and criticisms are always welcome.
> 
> Lew


Lew a great series of tutorials. I assume that you'll post the finished turning on this one.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker

lew said:


> *Glue Up and Trimming The Blank- The Final Steps*
> 
> Before starting this section, I forgot to add to pix into the previous post.
> 
> This is the spacer strip used to reposition the blanks for the second cut. The spacer goes between the blank and the fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows the blank seated against the rear stop and the blank is labeled to assure it is not reversed during the various cutting operations.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found it easier to glue if I oriented the blank with the diagonal cut facing up. I use an old restaurant cutting board as a gluing work surface and pieces of the cutting board as culls and pads. In this picture, you can see the three strips to be glued into place. They measure 2" x 10 3/4" x 1/8". Test fit the pieces first to make sure they will seat into the slot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my first attempt, I didn't use enough clamps- using more clamps and culls assured that all of the joints were tight. I probably overdid it with the amount of glue. A liberal coat over all mating surfaces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue has dried and the clamps removed, the blank is ready for trimming.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the blank on my tapering jig and set it for no taper. The jig is used to hold the piece to trim off the excess material. This assures the piece will sit flat for the next diagonal cutting operation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trim the blank, rotate and re-clamp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trim, rotate an trim again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point it is a good idea to "sweeten up" the layout lines, if the trimming operation removed them.
> 
> Now it is just a matter of re-mounting the blank on the diagonal cutting jig and repeating the operations for making the second diagonal slot.
> 
> The diagonal slots, glue ups and trimming operations are the same for each of the remaining three sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Word of caution here- if you have to change the blade height during the trimming operation, be certain to reset it before the diagonal slot cutting operation!
> 
> After the four sides are cut, glued and trimmed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the lathe, ready to be turned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final dimensions on this rolling pin were: 20" long; diameter at the center: 1 9/16"; diameter at the ends : 1 1/4". I have tried two types of tapers. One started at the center and continued to the ends. The other starts at the ends of the ellipses and continues to the ends. Personal preferences will determine the tapers.
> 
> Again, thanks everyone for your encouragement and help in my quest to create this. I really could not have done it without your help!
> 
> Any questions, comments and criticisms are always welcome.
> 
> Lew


Nice work Lew.


----------



## Chipncut

lew said:


> *Glue Up and Trimming The Blank- The Final Steps*
> 
> Before starting this section, I forgot to add to pix into the previous post.
> 
> This is the spacer strip used to reposition the blanks for the second cut. The spacer goes between the blank and the fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows the blank seated against the rear stop and the blank is labeled to assure it is not reversed during the various cutting operations.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found it easier to glue if I oriented the blank with the diagonal cut facing up. I use an old restaurant cutting board as a gluing work surface and pieces of the cutting board as culls and pads. In this picture, you can see the three strips to be glued into place. They measure 2" x 10 3/4" x 1/8". Test fit the pieces first to make sure they will seat into the slot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my first attempt, I didn't use enough clamps- using more clamps and culls assured that all of the joints were tight. I probably overdid it with the amount of glue. A liberal coat over all mating surfaces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue has dried and the clamps removed, the blank is ready for trimming.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the blank on my tapering jig and set it for no taper. The jig is used to hold the piece to trim off the excess material. This assures the piece will sit flat for the next diagonal cutting operation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trim the blank, rotate and re-clamp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trim, rotate an trim again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point it is a good idea to "sweeten up" the layout lines, if the trimming operation removed them.
> 
> Now it is just a matter of re-mounting the blank on the diagonal cutting jig and repeating the operations for making the second diagonal slot.
> 
> The diagonal slots, glue ups and trimming operations are the same for each of the remaining three sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Word of caution here- if you have to change the blade height during the trimming operation, be certain to reset it before the diagonal slot cutting operation!
> 
> After the four sides are cut, glued and trimmed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the lathe, ready to be turned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final dimensions on this rolling pin were: 20" long; diameter at the center: 1 9/16"; diameter at the ends : 1 1/4". I have tried two types of tapers. One started at the center and continued to the ends. The other starts at the ends of the ellipses and continues to the ends. Personal preferences will determine the tapers.
> 
> Again, thanks everyone for your encouragement and help in my quest to create this. I really could not have done it without your help!
> 
> Any questions, comments and criticisms are always welcome.
> 
> Lew


I'll be looking forward to seeing that Celtic knot.

Those knots are fascinating, I carved a Irish Claddagh for Barb once.

It was a lot of fun.


----------



## mmh

lew said:


> *Glue Up and Trimming The Blank- The Final Steps*
> 
> Before starting this section, I forgot to add to pix into the previous post.
> 
> This is the spacer strip used to reposition the blanks for the second cut. The spacer goes between the blank and the fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows the blank seated against the rear stop and the blank is labeled to assure it is not reversed during the various cutting operations.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found it easier to glue if I oriented the blank with the diagonal cut facing up. I use an old restaurant cutting board as a gluing work surface and pieces of the cutting board as culls and pads. In this picture, you can see the three strips to be glued into place. They measure 2" x 10 3/4" x 1/8". Test fit the pieces first to make sure they will seat into the slot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my first attempt, I didn't use enough clamps- using more clamps and culls assured that all of the joints were tight. I probably overdid it with the amount of glue. A liberal coat over all mating surfaces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue has dried and the clamps removed, the blank is ready for trimming.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the blank on my tapering jig and set it for no taper. The jig is used to hold the piece to trim off the excess material. This assures the piece will sit flat for the next diagonal cutting operation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trim the blank, rotate and re-clamp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trim, rotate an trim again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point it is a good idea to "sweeten up" the layout lines, if the trimming operation removed them.
> 
> Now it is just a matter of re-mounting the blank on the diagonal cutting jig and repeating the operations for making the second diagonal slot.
> 
> The diagonal slots, glue ups and trimming operations are the same for each of the remaining three sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Word of caution here- if you have to change the blade height during the trimming operation, be certain to reset it before the diagonal slot cutting operation!
> 
> After the four sides are cut, glued and trimmed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the lathe, ready to be turned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final dimensions on this rolling pin were: 20" long; diameter at the center: 1 9/16"; diameter at the ends : 1 1/4". I have tried two types of tapers. One started at the center and continued to the ends. The other starts at the ends of the ellipses and continues to the ends. Personal preferences will determine the tapers.
> 
> Again, thanks everyone for your encouragement and help in my quest to create this. I really could not have done it without your help!
> 
> Any questions, comments and criticisms are always welcome.
> 
> Lew


Thank you for the instructable. Great job!


----------



## mranum

lew said:


> *Glue Up and Trimming The Blank- The Final Steps*
> 
> Before starting this section, I forgot to add to pix into the previous post.
> 
> This is the spacer strip used to reposition the blanks for the second cut. The spacer goes between the blank and the fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows the blank seated against the rear stop and the blank is labeled to assure it is not reversed during the various cutting operations.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found it easier to glue if I oriented the blank with the diagonal cut facing up. I use an old restaurant cutting board as a gluing work surface and pieces of the cutting board as culls and pads. In this picture, you can see the three strips to be glued into place. They measure 2" x 10 3/4" x 1/8". Test fit the pieces first to make sure they will seat into the slot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my first attempt, I didn't use enough clamps- using more clamps and culls assured that all of the joints were tight. I probably overdid it with the amount of glue. A liberal coat over all mating surfaces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue has dried and the clamps removed, the blank is ready for trimming.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the blank on my tapering jig and set it for no taper. The jig is used to hold the piece to trim off the excess material. This assures the piece will sit flat for the next diagonal cutting operation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trim the blank, rotate and re-clamp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trim, rotate an trim again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point it is a good idea to "sweeten up" the layout lines, if the trimming operation removed them.
> 
> Now it is just a matter of re-mounting the blank on the diagonal cutting jig and repeating the operations for making the second diagonal slot.
> 
> The diagonal slots, glue ups and trimming operations are the same for each of the remaining three sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Word of caution here- if you have to change the blade height during the trimming operation, be certain to reset it before the diagonal slot cutting operation!
> 
> After the four sides are cut, glued and trimmed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the lathe, ready to be turned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final dimensions on this rolling pin were: 20" long; diameter at the center: 1 9/16"; diameter at the ends : 1 1/4". I have tried two types of tapers. One started at the center and continued to the ends. The other starts at the ends of the ellipses and continues to the ends. Personal preferences will determine the tapers.
> 
> Again, thanks everyone for your encouragement and help in my quest to create this. I really could not have done it without your help!
> 
> Any questions, comments and criticisms are always welcome.
> 
> Lew


Great explanation always wondered how you guys do that.


----------



## motthunter

lew said:


> *Glue Up and Trimming The Blank- The Final Steps*
> 
> Before starting this section, I forgot to add to pix into the previous post.
> 
> This is the spacer strip used to reposition the blanks for the second cut. The spacer goes between the blank and the fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows the blank seated against the rear stop and the blank is labeled to assure it is not reversed during the various cutting operations.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found it easier to glue if I oriented the blank with the diagonal cut facing up. I use an old restaurant cutting board as a gluing work surface and pieces of the cutting board as culls and pads. In this picture, you can see the three strips to be glued into place. They measure 2" x 10 3/4" x 1/8". Test fit the pieces first to make sure they will seat into the slot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my first attempt, I didn't use enough clamps- using more clamps and culls assured that all of the joints were tight. I probably overdid it with the amount of glue. A liberal coat over all mating surfaces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue has dried and the clamps removed, the blank is ready for trimming.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the blank on my tapering jig and set it for no taper. The jig is used to hold the piece to trim off the excess material. This assures the piece will sit flat for the next diagonal cutting operation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trim the blank, rotate and re-clamp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trim, rotate an trim again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point it is a good idea to "sweeten up" the layout lines, if the trimming operation removed them.
> 
> Now it is just a matter of re-mounting the blank on the diagonal cutting jig and repeating the operations for making the second diagonal slot.
> 
> The diagonal slots, glue ups and trimming operations are the same for each of the remaining three sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Word of caution here- if you have to change the blade height during the trimming operation, be certain to reset it before the diagonal slot cutting operation!
> 
> After the four sides are cut, glued and trimmed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the lathe, ready to be turned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final dimensions on this rolling pin were: 20" long; diameter at the center: 1 9/16"; diameter at the ends : 1 1/4". I have tried two types of tapers. One started at the center and continued to the ends. The other starts at the ends of the ellipses and continues to the ends. Personal preferences will determine the tapers.
> 
> Again, thanks everyone for your encouragement and help in my quest to create this. I really could not have done it without your help!
> 
> Any questions, comments and criticisms are always welcome.
> 
> Lew


great pictures.. thanks


----------



## Karson

lew said:


> *Glue Up and Trimming The Blank- The Final Steps*
> 
> Before starting this section, I forgot to add to pix into the previous post.
> 
> This is the spacer strip used to reposition the blanks for the second cut. The spacer goes between the blank and the fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows the blank seated against the rear stop and the blank is labeled to assure it is not reversed during the various cutting operations.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found it easier to glue if I oriented the blank with the diagonal cut facing up. I use an old restaurant cutting board as a gluing work surface and pieces of the cutting board as culls and pads. In this picture, you can see the three strips to be glued into place. They measure 2" x 10 3/4" x 1/8". Test fit the pieces first to make sure they will seat into the slot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my first attempt, I didn't use enough clamps- using more clamps and culls assured that all of the joints were tight. I probably overdid it with the amount of glue. A liberal coat over all mating surfaces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue has dried and the clamps removed, the blank is ready for trimming.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the blank on my tapering jig and set it for no taper. The jig is used to hold the piece to trim off the excess material. This assures the piece will sit flat for the next diagonal cutting operation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trim the blank, rotate and re-clamp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trim, rotate an trim again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point it is a good idea to "sweeten up" the layout lines, if the trimming operation removed them.
> 
> Now it is just a matter of re-mounting the blank on the diagonal cutting jig and repeating the operations for making the second diagonal slot.
> 
> The diagonal slots, glue ups and trimming operations are the same for each of the remaining three sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Word of caution here- if you have to change the blade height during the trimming operation, be certain to reset it before the diagonal slot cutting operation!
> 
> After the four sides are cut, glued and trimmed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the lathe, ready to be turned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final dimensions on this rolling pin were: 20" long; diameter at the center: 1 9/16"; diameter at the ends : 1 1/4". I have tried two types of tapers. One started at the center and continued to the ends. The other starts at the ends of the ellipses and continues to the ends. Personal preferences will determine the tapers.
> 
> Again, thanks everyone for your encouragement and help in my quest to create this. I really could not have done it without your help!
> 
> Any questions, comments and criticisms are always welcome.
> 
> Lew


Lew stopped by my shop today and gave me one of the beautiful rolling pins.

It's better in person that on the web. Especially when I have one in my hand.


----------



## mtnwild

lew said:


> *Glue Up and Trimming The Blank- The Final Steps*
> 
> Before starting this section, I forgot to add to pix into the previous post.
> 
> This is the spacer strip used to reposition the blanks for the second cut. The spacer goes between the blank and the fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows the blank seated against the rear stop and the blank is labeled to assure it is not reversed during the various cutting operations.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found it easier to glue if I oriented the blank with the diagonal cut facing up. I use an old restaurant cutting board as a gluing work surface and pieces of the cutting board as culls and pads. In this picture, you can see the three strips to be glued into place. They measure 2" x 10 3/4" x 1/8". Test fit the pieces first to make sure they will seat into the slot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my first attempt, I didn't use enough clamps- using more clamps and culls assured that all of the joints were tight. I probably overdid it with the amount of glue. A liberal coat over all mating surfaces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue has dried and the clamps removed, the blank is ready for trimming.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the blank on my tapering jig and set it for no taper. The jig is used to hold the piece to trim off the excess material. This assures the piece will sit flat for the next diagonal cutting operation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trim the blank, rotate and re-clamp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trim, rotate an trim again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point it is a good idea to "sweeten up" the layout lines, if the trimming operation removed them.
> 
> Now it is just a matter of re-mounting the blank on the diagonal cutting jig and repeating the operations for making the second diagonal slot.
> 
> The diagonal slots, glue ups and trimming operations are the same for each of the remaining three sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Word of caution here- if you have to change the blade height during the trimming operation, be certain to reset it before the diagonal slot cutting operation!
> 
> After the four sides are cut, glued and trimmed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the lathe, ready to be turned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final dimensions on this rolling pin were: 20" long; diameter at the center: 1 9/16"; diameter at the ends : 1 1/4". I have tried two types of tapers. One started at the center and continued to the ends. The other starts at the ends of the ellipses and continues to the ends. Personal preferences will determine the tapers.
> 
> Again, thanks everyone for your encouragement and help in my quest to create this. I really could not have done it without your help!
> 
> Any questions, comments and criticisms are always welcome.
> 
> Lew


Hey Lew, Very cool blog, thanks for the how to. Great stuff!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## a1Jim

lew said:


> *Glue Up and Trimming The Blank- The Final Steps*
> 
> Before starting this section, I forgot to add to pix into the previous post.
> 
> This is the spacer strip used to reposition the blanks for the second cut. The spacer goes between the blank and the fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows the blank seated against the rear stop and the blank is labeled to assure it is not reversed during the various cutting operations.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found it easier to glue if I oriented the blank with the diagonal cut facing up. I use an old restaurant cutting board as a gluing work surface and pieces of the cutting board as culls and pads. In this picture, you can see the three strips to be glued into place. They measure 2" x 10 3/4" x 1/8". Test fit the pieces first to make sure they will seat into the slot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my first attempt, I didn't use enough clamps- using more clamps and culls assured that all of the joints were tight. I probably overdid it with the amount of glue. A liberal coat over all mating surfaces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue has dried and the clamps removed, the blank is ready for trimming.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the blank on my tapering jig and set it for no taper. The jig is used to hold the piece to trim off the excess material. This assures the piece will sit flat for the next diagonal cutting operation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trim the blank, rotate and re-clamp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trim, rotate an trim again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point it is a good idea to "sweeten up" the layout lines, if the trimming operation removed them.
> 
> Now it is just a matter of re-mounting the blank on the diagonal cutting jig and repeating the operations for making the second diagonal slot.
> 
> The diagonal slots, glue ups and trimming operations are the same for each of the remaining three sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Word of caution here- if you have to change the blade height during the trimming operation, be certain to reset it before the diagonal slot cutting operation!
> 
> After the four sides are cut, glued and trimmed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the lathe, ready to be turned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final dimensions on this rolling pin were: 20" long; diameter at the center: 1 9/16"; diameter at the ends : 1 1/4". I have tried two types of tapers. One started at the center and continued to the ends. The other starts at the ends of the ellipses and continues to the ends. Personal preferences will determine the tapers.
> 
> Again, thanks everyone for your encouragement and help in my quest to create this. I really could not have done it without your help!
> 
> Any questions, comments and criticisms are always welcome.
> 
> Lew


super blog thanks


----------



## ahock

lew said:


> *Glue Up and Trimming The Blank- The Final Steps*
> 
> Before starting this section, I forgot to add to pix into the previous post.
> 
> This is the spacer strip used to reposition the blanks for the second cut. The spacer goes between the blank and the fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows the blank seated against the rear stop and the blank is labeled to assure it is not reversed during the various cutting operations.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found it easier to glue if I oriented the blank with the diagonal cut facing up. I use an old restaurant cutting board as a gluing work surface and pieces of the cutting board as culls and pads. In this picture, you can see the three strips to be glued into place. They measure 2" x 10 3/4" x 1/8". Test fit the pieces first to make sure they will seat into the slot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my first attempt, I didn't use enough clamps- using more clamps and culls assured that all of the joints were tight. I probably overdid it with the amount of glue. A liberal coat over all mating surfaces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue has dried and the clamps removed, the blank is ready for trimming.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the blank on my tapering jig and set it for no taper. The jig is used to hold the piece to trim off the excess material. This assures the piece will sit flat for the next diagonal cutting operation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trim the blank, rotate and re-clamp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trim, rotate an trim again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point it is a good idea to "sweeten up" the layout lines, if the trimming operation removed them.
> 
> Now it is just a matter of re-mounting the blank on the diagonal cutting jig and repeating the operations for making the second diagonal slot.
> 
> The diagonal slots, glue ups and trimming operations are the same for each of the remaining three sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Word of caution here- if you have to change the blade height during the trimming operation, be certain to reset it before the diagonal slot cutting operation!
> 
> After the four sides are cut, glued and trimmed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the lathe, ready to be turned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final dimensions on this rolling pin were: 20" long; diameter at the center: 1 9/16"; diameter at the ends : 1 1/4". I have tried two types of tapers. One started at the center and continued to the ends. The other starts at the ends of the ellipses and continues to the ends. Personal preferences will determine the tapers.
> 
> Again, thanks everyone for your encouragement and help in my quest to create this. I really could not have done it without your help!
> 
> Any questions, comments and criticisms are always welcome.
> 
> Lew


Great blog Lew! I love the detail, that and the pictures really help me to walk through the project before starting. Thanks!


----------



## ahock

lew said:


> *Glue Up and Trimming The Blank- The Final Steps*
> 
> Before starting this section, I forgot to add to pix into the previous post.
> 
> This is the spacer strip used to reposition the blanks for the second cut. The spacer goes between the blank and the fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows the blank seated against the rear stop and the blank is labeled to assure it is not reversed during the various cutting operations.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found it easier to glue if I oriented the blank with the diagonal cut facing up. I use an old restaurant cutting board as a gluing work surface and pieces of the cutting board as culls and pads. In this picture, you can see the three strips to be glued into place. They measure 2" x 10 3/4" x 1/8". Test fit the pieces first to make sure they will seat into the slot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my first attempt, I didn't use enough clamps- using more clamps and culls assured that all of the joints were tight. I probably overdid it with the amount of glue. A liberal coat over all mating surfaces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue has dried and the clamps removed, the blank is ready for trimming.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the blank on my tapering jig and set it for no taper. The jig is used to hold the piece to trim off the excess material. This assures the piece will sit flat for the next diagonal cutting operation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trim the blank, rotate and re-clamp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trim, rotate an trim again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point it is a good idea to "sweeten up" the layout lines, if the trimming operation removed them.
> 
> Now it is just a matter of re-mounting the blank on the diagonal cutting jig and repeating the operations for making the second diagonal slot.
> 
> The diagonal slots, glue ups and trimming operations are the same for each of the remaining three sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Word of caution here- if you have to change the blade height during the trimming operation, be certain to reset it before the diagonal slot cutting operation!
> 
> After the four sides are cut, glued and trimmed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the lathe, ready to be turned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final dimensions on this rolling pin were: 20" long; diameter at the center: 1 9/16"; diameter at the ends : 1 1/4". I have tried two types of tapers. One started at the center and continued to the ends. The other starts at the ends of the ellipses and continues to the ends. Personal preferences will determine the tapers.
> 
> Again, thanks everyone for your encouragement and help in my quest to create this. I really could not have done it without your help!
> 
> Any questions, comments and criticisms are always welcome.
> 
> Lew


So I guess I can't delete a second post… So, Thanks again Lew!


----------



## lew

lew said:


> *Glue Up and Trimming The Blank- The Final Steps*
> 
> Before starting this section, I forgot to add to pix into the previous post.
> 
> This is the spacer strip used to reposition the blanks for the second cut. The spacer goes between the blank and the fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows the blank seated against the rear stop and the blank is labeled to assure it is not reversed during the various cutting operations.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found it easier to glue if I oriented the blank with the diagonal cut facing up. I use an old restaurant cutting board as a gluing work surface and pieces of the cutting board as culls and pads. In this picture, you can see the three strips to be glued into place. They measure 2" x 10 3/4" x 1/8". Test fit the pieces first to make sure they will seat into the slot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my first attempt, I didn't use enough clamps- using more clamps and culls assured that all of the joints were tight. I probably overdid it with the amount of glue. A liberal coat over all mating surfaces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue has dried and the clamps removed, the blank is ready for trimming.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the blank on my tapering jig and set it for no taper. The jig is used to hold the piece to trim off the excess material. This assures the piece will sit flat for the next diagonal cutting operation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trim the blank, rotate and re-clamp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trim, rotate an trim again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point it is a good idea to "sweeten up" the layout lines, if the trimming operation removed them.
> 
> Now it is just a matter of re-mounting the blank on the diagonal cutting jig and repeating the operations for making the second diagonal slot.
> 
> The diagonal slots, glue ups and trimming operations are the same for each of the remaining three sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Word of caution here- if you have to change the blade height during the trimming operation, be certain to reset it before the diagonal slot cutting operation!
> 
> After the four sides are cut, glued and trimmed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the lathe, ready to be turned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final dimensions on this rolling pin were: 20" long; diameter at the center: 1 9/16"; diameter at the ends : 1 1/4". I have tried two types of tapers. One started at the center and continued to the ends. The other starts at the ends of the ellipses and continues to the ends. Personal preferences will determine the tapers.
> 
> Again, thanks everyone for your encouragement and help in my quest to create this. I really could not have done it without your help!
> 
> Any questions, comments and criticisms are always welcome.
> 
> Lew


*Andy*, Thanks!

Check out the great pins Dwayne made!!!!!


----------



## DonnaMenke

lew said:


> *Glue Up and Trimming The Blank- The Final Steps*
> 
> Before starting this section, I forgot to add to pix into the previous post.
> 
> This is the spacer strip used to reposition the blanks for the second cut. The spacer goes between the blank and the fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows the blank seated against the rear stop and the blank is labeled to assure it is not reversed during the various cutting operations.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found it easier to glue if I oriented the blank with the diagonal cut facing up. I use an old restaurant cutting board as a gluing work surface and pieces of the cutting board as culls and pads. In this picture, you can see the three strips to be glued into place. They measure 2" x 10 3/4" x 1/8". Test fit the pieces first to make sure they will seat into the slot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my first attempt, I didn't use enough clamps- using more clamps and culls assured that all of the joints were tight. I probably overdid it with the amount of glue. A liberal coat over all mating surfaces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue has dried and the clamps removed, the blank is ready for trimming.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the blank on my tapering jig and set it for no taper. The jig is used to hold the piece to trim off the excess material. This assures the piece will sit flat for the next diagonal cutting operation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trim the blank, rotate and re-clamp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trim, rotate an trim again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point it is a good idea to "sweeten up" the layout lines, if the trimming operation removed them.
> 
> Now it is just a matter of re-mounting the blank on the diagonal cutting jig and repeating the operations for making the second diagonal slot.
> 
> The diagonal slots, glue ups and trimming operations are the same for each of the remaining three sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Word of caution here- if you have to change the blade height during the trimming operation, be certain to reset it before the diagonal slot cutting operation!
> 
> After the four sides are cut, glued and trimmed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the lathe, ready to be turned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final dimensions on this rolling pin were: 20" long; diameter at the center: 1 9/16"; diameter at the ends : 1 1/4". I have tried two types of tapers. One started at the center and continued to the ends. The other starts at the ends of the ellipses and continues to the ends. Personal preferences will determine the tapers.
> 
> Again, thanks everyone for your encouragement and help in my quest to create this. I really could not have done it without your help!
> 
> Any questions, comments and criticisms are always welcome.
> 
> Lew


Excellent explanation, Lew, you make it look so easy. I think I could follow this blog and make the project too. I just hate to make jigs. I could do the same thing- with more set up time- with my aluminum taper jig and rip fence couldn't I? Maybe not as perfect, but doable?


----------



## KentRumpel

lew said:


> *Glue Up and Trimming The Blank- The Final Steps*
> 
> Before starting this section, I forgot to add to pix into the previous post.
> 
> This is the spacer strip used to reposition the blanks for the second cut. The spacer goes between the blank and the fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows the blank seated against the rear stop and the blank is labeled to assure it is not reversed during the various cutting operations.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found it easier to glue if I oriented the blank with the diagonal cut facing up. I use an old restaurant cutting board as a gluing work surface and pieces of the cutting board as culls and pads. In this picture, you can see the three strips to be glued into place. They measure 2" x 10 3/4" x 1/8". Test fit the pieces first to make sure they will seat into the slot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my first attempt, I didn't use enough clamps- using more clamps and culls assured that all of the joints were tight. I probably overdid it with the amount of glue. A liberal coat over all mating surfaces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue has dried and the clamps removed, the blank is ready for trimming.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the blank on my tapering jig and set it for no taper. The jig is used to hold the piece to trim off the excess material. This assures the piece will sit flat for the next diagonal cutting operation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trim the blank, rotate and re-clamp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trim, rotate an trim again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point it is a good idea to "sweeten up" the layout lines, if the trimming operation removed them.
> 
> Now it is just a matter of re-mounting the blank on the diagonal cutting jig and repeating the operations for making the second diagonal slot.
> 
> The diagonal slots, glue ups and trimming operations are the same for each of the remaining three sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Word of caution here- if you have to change the blade height during the trimming operation, be certain to reset it before the diagonal slot cutting operation!
> 
> After the four sides are cut, glued and trimmed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the lathe, ready to be turned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final dimensions on this rolling pin were: 20" long; diameter at the center: 1 9/16"; diameter at the ends : 1 1/4". I have tried two types of tapers. One started at the center and continued to the ends. The other starts at the ends of the ellipses and continues to the ends. Personal preferences will determine the tapers.
> 
> Again, thanks everyone for your encouragement and help in my quest to create this. I really could not have done it without your help!
> 
> Any questions, comments and criticisms are always welcome.
> 
> Lew


Wondering why your not useing small spacer at the bottom to aligne the blank? to adjust the 3/8 groove?

or use a 3/8 dato?


----------



## lew

lew said:


> *Glue Up and Trimming The Blank- The Final Steps*
> 
> Before starting this section, I forgot to add to pix into the previous post.
> 
> This is the spacer strip used to reposition the blanks for the second cut. The spacer goes between the blank and the fence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows the blank seated against the rear stop and the blank is labeled to assure it is not reversed during the various cutting operations.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found it easier to glue if I oriented the blank with the diagonal cut facing up. I use an old restaurant cutting board as a gluing work surface and pieces of the cutting board as culls and pads. In this picture, you can see the three strips to be glued into place. They measure 2" x 10 3/4" x 1/8". Test fit the pieces first to make sure they will seat into the slot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my first attempt, I didn't use enough clamps- using more clamps and culls assured that all of the joints were tight. I probably overdid it with the amount of glue. A liberal coat over all mating surfaces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the glue has dried and the clamps removed, the blank is ready for trimming.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the blank on my tapering jig and set it for no taper. The jig is used to hold the piece to trim off the excess material. This assures the piece will sit flat for the next diagonal cutting operation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trim the blank, rotate and re-clamp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trim, rotate an trim again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point it is a good idea to "sweeten up" the layout lines, if the trimming operation removed them.
> 
> Now it is just a matter of re-mounting the blank on the diagonal cutting jig and repeating the operations for making the second diagonal slot.
> 
> The diagonal slots, glue ups and trimming operations are the same for each of the remaining three sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Word of caution here- if you have to change the blade height during the trimming operation, be certain to reset it before the diagonal slot cutting operation!
> 
> After the four sides are cut, glued and trimmed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the lathe, ready to be turned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final dimensions on this rolling pin were: 20" long; diameter at the center: 1 9/16"; diameter at the ends : 1 1/4". I have tried two types of tapers. One started at the center and continued to the ends. The other starts at the ends of the ellipses and continues to the ends. Personal preferences will determine the tapers.
> 
> Again, thanks everyone for your encouragement and help in my quest to create this. I really could not have done it without your help!
> 
> Any questions, comments and criticisms are always welcome.
> 
> Lew





> Wondering why your not useing small spacer at the bottom to aligne the blank? to adjust the 3/8 groove?
> 
> or use a 3/8 dato?
> 
> - KentRumpel


Kent,
A 3/8 dado would work but at the time I started this, I was using the table saw for other cuts in the process. A real pain to change saw blades every couple of steps. I hadn't even thought of sliding the blank in the long direction. Good idea, Thanks!!


----------



## lew

*Update*

The other day, I posted another rolling pin. There have been several requests about how to make them. I thought I should update this tutorial with the new and improved trimming jig.










Top of jig- hold down clamps, handle, and cutout. The cutout is the main new part to this jig. Previously I was using my tapering jig. The problem I encountered was that if the trimming process was not perfectly flush with the pin blank during the first trimming operation, then the blank would not clamp flat during the next set of trimmings. Because the blank doesn't have to be perfect at this point, I changed the jig so the blank is only supported on the ends during all trimming processes. This eliminated the problem.










Bottom of jig- I used a miter slot runner on this jig, that way I don't have to bother with the rip fence as I did with my taper jig.










Close up of the thin pieces that create the knot. I make the thin strips the same width as the pin blank. During the cutting/assembly process, the diagonal slot, for these strips, is cut in the blank but NOT all the way thru. The cut leaves about 1/16" of the blank in tack. This maintains the knots orientation evenly around the blank. The strips stick up a little because of the little part that's not cut. I guess I could be more accurate but not every pin blank ends up exactly 2" square so I don't take any chances.










The blank on the jig: When I made the jig, I made it wide and trimmed it on the saw. The saw blade will trim the blank flush with the edge of the jig. So aligning the blank with the edge of the jig trims everything pretty flush.










Close up of one end of the strips ready to be cut.

If anyone has questions, comments or an idea how this could be done any other way, I'm open for new ideas!

Lew


----------



## Karson

lew said:


> *Update*
> 
> The other day, I posted another rolling pin. There have been several requests about how to make them. I thought I should update this tutorial with the new and improved trimming jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top of jig- hold down clamps, handle, and cutout. The cutout is the main new part to this jig. Previously I was using my tapering jig. The problem I encountered was that if the trimming process was not perfectly flush with the pin blank during the first trimming operation, then the blank would not clamp flat during the next set of trimmings. Because the blank doesn't have to be perfect at this point, I changed the jig so the blank is only supported on the ends during all trimming processes. This eliminated the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom of jig- I used a miter slot runner on this jig, that way I don't have to bother with the rip fence as I did with my taper jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up of the thin pieces that create the knot. I make the thin strips the same width as the pin blank. During the cutting/assembly process, the diagonal slot, for these strips, is cut in the blank but NOT all the way thru. The cut leaves about 1/16" of the blank in tack. This maintains the knots orientation evenly around the blank. The strips stick up a little because of the little part that's not cut. I guess I could be more accurate but not every pin blank ends up exactly 2" square so I don't take any chances.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blank on the jig: When I made the jig, I made it wide and trimmed it on the saw. The saw blade will trim the blank flush with the edge of the jig. So aligning the blank with the edge of the jig trims everything pretty flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up of one end of the strips ready to be cut.
> 
> If anyone has questions, comments or an idea how this could be done any other way, I'm open for new ideas!
> 
> Lew


Great set of shots. Thanks for the review.


----------



## a1Jim

lew said:


> *Update*
> 
> The other day, I posted another rolling pin. There have been several requests about how to make them. I thought I should update this tutorial with the new and improved trimming jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top of jig- hold down clamps, handle, and cutout. The cutout is the main new part to this jig. Previously I was using my tapering jig. The problem I encountered was that if the trimming process was not perfectly flush with the pin blank during the first trimming operation, then the blank would not clamp flat during the next set of trimmings. Because the blank doesn't have to be perfect at this point, I changed the jig so the blank is only supported on the ends during all trimming processes. This eliminated the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom of jig- I used a miter slot runner on this jig, that way I don't have to bother with the rip fence as I did with my taper jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up of the thin pieces that create the knot. I make the thin strips the same width as the pin blank. During the cutting/assembly process, the diagonal slot, for these strips, is cut in the blank but NOT all the way thru. The cut leaves about 1/16" of the blank in tack. This maintains the knots orientation evenly around the blank. The strips stick up a little because of the little part that's not cut. I guess I could be more accurate but not every pin blank ends up exactly 2" square so I don't take any chances.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blank on the jig: When I made the jig, I made it wide and trimmed it on the saw. The saw blade will trim the blank flush with the edge of the jig. So aligning the blank with the edge of the jig trims everything pretty flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up of one end of the strips ready to be cut.
> 
> If anyone has questions, comments or an idea how this could be done any other way, I'm open for new ideas!
> 
> Lew


Hey Lew 
good close ups


----------



## gene

lew said:


> *Update*
> 
> The other day, I posted another rolling pin. There have been several requests about how to make them. I thought I should update this tutorial with the new and improved trimming jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top of jig- hold down clamps, handle, and cutout. The cutout is the main new part to this jig. Previously I was using my tapering jig. The problem I encountered was that if the trimming process was not perfectly flush with the pin blank during the first trimming operation, then the blank would not clamp flat during the next set of trimmings. Because the blank doesn't have to be perfect at this point, I changed the jig so the blank is only supported on the ends during all trimming processes. This eliminated the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom of jig- I used a miter slot runner on this jig, that way I don't have to bother with the rip fence as I did with my taper jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up of the thin pieces that create the knot. I make the thin strips the same width as the pin blank. During the cutting/assembly process, the diagonal slot, for these strips, is cut in the blank but NOT all the way thru. The cut leaves about 1/16" of the blank in tack. This maintains the knots orientation evenly around the blank. The strips stick up a little because of the little part that's not cut. I guess I could be more accurate but not every pin blank ends up exactly 2" square so I don't take any chances.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blank on the jig: When I made the jig, I made it wide and trimmed it on the saw. The saw blade will trim the blank flush with the edge of the jig. So aligning the blank with the edge of the jig trims everything pretty flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up of one end of the strips ready to be cut.
> 
> If anyone has questions, comments or an idea how this could be done any other way, I'm open for new ideas!
> 
> Lew


Hey! Lew,
Just saw this post on the rolling pin. You are doing a great job with the postings. Kinda makes me wish that I hadn't sold the ole lathe.(LOL)
Keep up the good work!
God bless!


----------



## woodworm

lew said:


> *Update*
> 
> The other day, I posted another rolling pin. There have been several requests about how to make them. I thought I should update this tutorial with the new and improved trimming jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top of jig- hold down clamps, handle, and cutout. The cutout is the main new part to this jig. Previously I was using my tapering jig. The problem I encountered was that if the trimming process was not perfectly flush with the pin blank during the first trimming operation, then the blank would not clamp flat during the next set of trimmings. Because the blank doesn't have to be perfect at this point, I changed the jig so the blank is only supported on the ends during all trimming processes. This eliminated the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom of jig- I used a miter slot runner on this jig, that way I don't have to bother with the rip fence as I did with my taper jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up of the thin pieces that create the knot. I make the thin strips the same width as the pin blank. During the cutting/assembly process, the diagonal slot, for these strips, is cut in the blank but NOT all the way thru. The cut leaves about 1/16" of the blank in tack. This maintains the knots orientation evenly around the blank. The strips stick up a little because of the little part that's not cut. I guess I could be more accurate but not every pin blank ends up exactly 2" square so I don't take any chances.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blank on the jig: When I made the jig, I made it wide and trimmed it on the saw. The saw blade will trim the blank flush with the edge of the jig. So aligning the blank with the edge of the jig trims everything pretty flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up of one end of the strips ready to be cut.
> 
> If anyone has questions, comments or an idea how this could be done any other way, I'm open for new ideas!
> 
> Lew


Hi Lew.
The jigs developed by craft woodworker works better., for sure.
Thanks for sharing the trade secret.
Take care & may God bless you!


----------



## Beginningwoodworker

lew said:


> *Update*
> 
> The other day, I posted another rolling pin. There have been several requests about how to make them. I thought I should update this tutorial with the new and improved trimming jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top of jig- hold down clamps, handle, and cutout. The cutout is the main new part to this jig. Previously I was using my tapering jig. The problem I encountered was that if the trimming process was not perfectly flush with the pin blank during the first trimming operation, then the blank would not clamp flat during the next set of trimmings. Because the blank doesn't have to be perfect at this point, I changed the jig so the blank is only supported on the ends during all trimming processes. This eliminated the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom of jig- I used a miter slot runner on this jig, that way I don't have to bother with the rip fence as I did with my taper jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up of the thin pieces that create the knot. I make the thin strips the same width as the pin blank. During the cutting/assembly process, the diagonal slot, for these strips, is cut in the blank but NOT all the way thru. The cut leaves about 1/16" of the blank in tack. This maintains the knots orientation evenly around the blank. The strips stick up a little because of the little part that's not cut. I guess I could be more accurate but not every pin blank ends up exactly 2" square so I don't take any chances.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blank on the jig: When I made the jig, I made it wide and trimmed it on the saw. The saw blade will trim the blank flush with the edge of the jig. So aligning the blank with the edge of the jig trims everything pretty flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up of one end of the strips ready to be cut.
> 
> If anyone has questions, comments or an idea how this could be done any other way, I'm open for new ideas!
> 
> Lew


Thanks for the review, lew.


----------



## mtnwild

lew said:


> *Update*
> 
> The other day, I posted another rolling pin. There have been several requests about how to make them. I thought I should update this tutorial with the new and improved trimming jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top of jig- hold down clamps, handle, and cutout. The cutout is the main new part to this jig. Previously I was using my tapering jig. The problem I encountered was that if the trimming process was not perfectly flush with the pin blank during the first trimming operation, then the blank would not clamp flat during the next set of trimmings. Because the blank doesn't have to be perfect at this point, I changed the jig so the blank is only supported on the ends during all trimming processes. This eliminated the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom of jig- I used a miter slot runner on this jig, that way I don't have to bother with the rip fence as I did with my taper jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up of the thin pieces that create the knot. I make the thin strips the same width as the pin blank. During the cutting/assembly process, the diagonal slot, for these strips, is cut in the blank but NOT all the way thru. The cut leaves about 1/16" of the blank in tack. This maintains the knots orientation evenly around the blank. The strips stick up a little because of the little part that's not cut. I guess I could be more accurate but not every pin blank ends up exactly 2" square so I don't take any chances.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blank on the jig: When I made the jig, I made it wide and trimmed it on the saw. The saw blade will trim the blank flush with the edge of the jig. So aligning the blank with the edge of the jig trims everything pretty flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up of one end of the strips ready to be cut.
> 
> If anyone has questions, comments or an idea how this could be done any other way, I'm open for new ideas!
> 
> Lew


Great jig! Thanks for all the info, very cool….............


----------



## Ottis

lew said:


> *Update*
> 
> The other day, I posted another rolling pin. There have been several requests about how to make them. I thought I should update this tutorial with the new and improved trimming jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top of jig- hold down clamps, handle, and cutout. The cutout is the main new part to this jig. Previously I was using my tapering jig. The problem I encountered was that if the trimming process was not perfectly flush with the pin blank during the first trimming operation, then the blank would not clamp flat during the next set of trimmings. Because the blank doesn't have to be perfect at this point, I changed the jig so the blank is only supported on the ends during all trimming processes. This eliminated the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom of jig- I used a miter slot runner on this jig, that way I don't have to bother with the rip fence as I did with my taper jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up of the thin pieces that create the knot. I make the thin strips the same width as the pin blank. During the cutting/assembly process, the diagonal slot, for these strips, is cut in the blank but NOT all the way thru. The cut leaves about 1/16" of the blank in tack. This maintains the knots orientation evenly around the blank. The strips stick up a little because of the little part that's not cut. I guess I could be more accurate but not every pin blank ends up exactly 2" square so I don't take any chances.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blank on the jig: When I made the jig, I made it wide and trimmed it on the saw. The saw blade will trim the blank flush with the edge of the jig. So aligning the blank with the edge of the jig trims everything pretty flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up of one end of the strips ready to be cut.
> 
> If anyone has questions, comments or an idea how this could be done any other way, I'm open for new ideas!
> 
> Lew


Thanks Lew !!!!!


----------



## tomd

lew said:


> *Update*
> 
> The other day, I posted another rolling pin. There have been several requests about how to make them. I thought I should update this tutorial with the new and improved trimming jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top of jig- hold down clamps, handle, and cutout. The cutout is the main new part to this jig. Previously I was using my tapering jig. The problem I encountered was that if the trimming process was not perfectly flush with the pin blank during the first trimming operation, then the blank would not clamp flat during the next set of trimmings. Because the blank doesn't have to be perfect at this point, I changed the jig so the blank is only supported on the ends during all trimming processes. This eliminated the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom of jig- I used a miter slot runner on this jig, that way I don't have to bother with the rip fence as I did with my taper jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up of the thin pieces that create the knot. I make the thin strips the same width as the pin blank. During the cutting/assembly process, the diagonal slot, for these strips, is cut in the blank but NOT all the way thru. The cut leaves about 1/16" of the blank in tack. This maintains the knots orientation evenly around the blank. The strips stick up a little because of the little part that's not cut. I guess I could be more accurate but not every pin blank ends up exactly 2" square so I don't take any chances.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blank on the jig: When I made the jig, I made it wide and trimmed it on the saw. The saw blade will trim the blank flush with the edge of the jig. So aligning the blank with the edge of the jig trims everything pretty flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up of one end of the strips ready to be cut.
> 
> If anyone has questions, comments or an idea how this could be done any other way, I'm open for new ideas!
> 
> Lew


Thanks for a great tutorial, nice work.


----------



## Innovator

lew said:


> *Update*
> 
> The other day, I posted another rolling pin. There have been several requests about how to make them. I thought I should update this tutorial with the new and improved trimming jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top of jig- hold down clamps, handle, and cutout. The cutout is the main new part to this jig. Previously I was using my tapering jig. The problem I encountered was that if the trimming process was not perfectly flush with the pin blank during the first trimming operation, then the blank would not clamp flat during the next set of trimmings. Because the blank doesn't have to be perfect at this point, I changed the jig so the blank is only supported on the ends during all trimming processes. This eliminated the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom of jig- I used a miter slot runner on this jig, that way I don't have to bother with the rip fence as I did with my taper jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up of the thin pieces that create the knot. I make the thin strips the same width as the pin blank. During the cutting/assembly process, the diagonal slot, for these strips, is cut in the blank but NOT all the way thru. The cut leaves about 1/16" of the blank in tack. This maintains the knots orientation evenly around the blank. The strips stick up a little because of the little part that's not cut. I guess I could be more accurate but not every pin blank ends up exactly 2" square so I don't take any chances.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blank on the jig: When I made the jig, I made it wide and trimmed it on the saw. The saw blade will trim the blank flush with the edge of the jig. So aligning the blank with the edge of the jig trims everything pretty flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up of one end of the strips ready to be cut.
> 
> If anyone has questions, comments or an idea how this could be done any other way, I'm open for new ideas!
> 
> Lew


Thanks for the update it is very helpful.


----------



## Argyllshire

lew said:


> *Update*
> 
> The other day, I posted another rolling pin. There have been several requests about how to make them. I thought I should update this tutorial with the new and improved trimming jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top of jig- hold down clamps, handle, and cutout. The cutout is the main new part to this jig. Previously I was using my tapering jig. The problem I encountered was that if the trimming process was not perfectly flush with the pin blank during the first trimming operation, then the blank would not clamp flat during the next set of trimmings. Because the blank doesn't have to be perfect at this point, I changed the jig so the blank is only supported on the ends during all trimming processes. This eliminated the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom of jig- I used a miter slot runner on this jig, that way I don't have to bother with the rip fence as I did with my taper jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up of the thin pieces that create the knot. I make the thin strips the same width as the pin blank. During the cutting/assembly process, the diagonal slot, for these strips, is cut in the blank but NOT all the way thru. The cut leaves about 1/16" of the blank in tack. This maintains the knots orientation evenly around the blank. The strips stick up a little because of the little part that's not cut. I guess I could be more accurate but not every pin blank ends up exactly 2" square so I don't take any chances.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blank on the jig: When I made the jig, I made it wide and trimmed it on the saw. The saw blade will trim the blank flush with the edge of the jig. So aligning the blank with the edge of the jig trims everything pretty flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up of one end of the strips ready to be cut.
> 
> If anyone has questions, comments or an idea how this could be done any other way, I'm open for new ideas!
> 
> Lew


Your design is fantastic!! And your tutorial is very well done,easy to understand.
Thanks for all your time and hardwork


----------



## matt1970

lew said:


> *Update*
> 
> The other day, I posted another rolling pin. There have been several requests about how to make them. I thought I should update this tutorial with the new and improved trimming jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top of jig- hold down clamps, handle, and cutout. The cutout is the main new part to this jig. Previously I was using my tapering jig. The problem I encountered was that if the trimming process was not perfectly flush with the pin blank during the first trimming operation, then the blank would not clamp flat during the next set of trimmings. Because the blank doesn't have to be perfect at this point, I changed the jig so the blank is only supported on the ends during all trimming processes. This eliminated the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom of jig- I used a miter slot runner on this jig, that way I don't have to bother with the rip fence as I did with my taper jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up of the thin pieces that create the knot. I make the thin strips the same width as the pin blank. During the cutting/assembly process, the diagonal slot, for these strips, is cut in the blank but NOT all the way thru. The cut leaves about 1/16" of the blank in tack. This maintains the knots orientation evenly around the blank. The strips stick up a little because of the little part that's not cut. I guess I could be more accurate but not every pin blank ends up exactly 2" square so I don't take any chances.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blank on the jig: When I made the jig, I made it wide and trimmed it on the saw. The saw blade will trim the blank flush with the edge of the jig. So aligning the blank with the edge of the jig trims everything pretty flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up of one end of the strips ready to be cut.
> 
> If anyone has questions, comments or an idea how this could be done any other way, I'm open for new ideas!
> 
> Lew


taken me two days to catch up…thanks for the instructions lew!!!


----------



## Den

lew said:


> *Update*
> 
> The other day, I posted another rolling pin. There have been several requests about how to make them. I thought I should update this tutorial with the new and improved trimming jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top of jig- hold down clamps, handle, and cutout. The cutout is the main new part to this jig. Previously I was using my tapering jig. The problem I encountered was that if the trimming process was not perfectly flush with the pin blank during the first trimming operation, then the blank would not clamp flat during the next set of trimmings. Because the blank doesn't have to be perfect at this point, I changed the jig so the blank is only supported on the ends during all trimming processes. This eliminated the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom of jig- I used a miter slot runner on this jig, that way I don't have to bother with the rip fence as I did with my taper jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up of the thin pieces that create the knot. I make the thin strips the same width as the pin blank. During the cutting/assembly process, the diagonal slot, for these strips, is cut in the blank but NOT all the way thru. The cut leaves about 1/16" of the blank in tack. This maintains the knots orientation evenly around the blank. The strips stick up a little because of the little part that's not cut. I guess I could be more accurate but not every pin blank ends up exactly 2" square so I don't take any chances.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blank on the jig: When I made the jig, I made it wide and trimmed it on the saw. The saw blade will trim the blank flush with the edge of the jig. So aligning the blank with the edge of the jig trims everything pretty flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up of one end of the strips ready to be cut.
> 
> If anyone has questions, comments or an idea how this could be done any other way, I'm open for new ideas!
> 
> Lew


Lew, very well done, if you want to see it done differently, go to google and type in Making a double cross pen. with your knowledge you can make it close to what you have I think. also this website I believe is the same http://www.woodturningonline.com/Turning/Turning_content/DoubleCrossPen.pdf, 
thank you for sharing your Idea.
Den


----------



## Den

lew said:


> *Update*
> 
> The other day, I posted another rolling pin. There have been several requests about how to make them. I thought I should update this tutorial with the new and improved trimming jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top of jig- hold down clamps, handle, and cutout. The cutout is the main new part to this jig. Previously I was using my tapering jig. The problem I encountered was that if the trimming process was not perfectly flush with the pin blank during the first trimming operation, then the blank would not clamp flat during the next set of trimmings. Because the blank doesn't have to be perfect at this point, I changed the jig so the blank is only supported on the ends during all trimming processes. This eliminated the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom of jig- I used a miter slot runner on this jig, that way I don't have to bother with the rip fence as I did with my taper jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up of the thin pieces that create the knot. I make the thin strips the same width as the pin blank. During the cutting/assembly process, the diagonal slot, for these strips, is cut in the blank but NOT all the way thru. The cut leaves about 1/16" of the blank in tack. This maintains the knots orientation evenly around the blank. The strips stick up a little because of the little part that's not cut. I guess I could be more accurate but not every pin blank ends up exactly 2" square so I don't take any chances.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blank on the jig: When I made the jig, I made it wide and trimmed it on the saw. The saw blade will trim the blank flush with the edge of the jig. So aligning the blank with the edge of the jig trims everything pretty flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up of one end of the strips ready to be cut.
> 
> If anyone has questions, comments or an idea how this could be done any other way, I'm open for new ideas!
> 
> Lew


Lew, let me know if you come up with different designs using the website I gave you, I would be interested in what you come up with. (Very interested)
Den


----------



## Hacksaw007

lew said:


> *Update*
> 
> The other day, I posted another rolling pin. There have been several requests about how to make them. I thought I should update this tutorial with the new and improved trimming jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top of jig- hold down clamps, handle, and cutout. The cutout is the main new part to this jig. Previously I was using my tapering jig. The problem I encountered was that if the trimming process was not perfectly flush with the pin blank during the first trimming operation, then the blank would not clamp flat during the next set of trimmings. Because the blank doesn't have to be perfect at this point, I changed the jig so the blank is only supported on the ends during all trimming processes. This eliminated the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom of jig- I used a miter slot runner on this jig, that way I don't have to bother with the rip fence as I did with my taper jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up of the thin pieces that create the knot. I make the thin strips the same width as the pin blank. During the cutting/assembly process, the diagonal slot, for these strips, is cut in the blank but NOT all the way thru. The cut leaves about 1/16" of the blank in tack. This maintains the knots orientation evenly around the blank. The strips stick up a little because of the little part that's not cut. I guess I could be more accurate but not every pin blank ends up exactly 2" square so I don't take any chances.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blank on the jig: When I made the jig, I made it wide and trimmed it on the saw. The saw blade will trim the blank flush with the edge of the jig. So aligning the blank with the edge of the jig trims everything pretty flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up of one end of the strips ready to be cut.
> 
> If anyone has questions, comments or an idea how this could be done any other way, I'm open for new ideas!
> 
> Lew


I have a headache! Your out of my ballpark….. I would love to do this, but don't believe that I have the shop skills or the understanding to currently make this. This would be a very nice thing to film and put on u-tube or sell it. I know I would buy one. I have not given up, but am only being truthfull about my woodworking skills. I am in central Pennsylvania, where are you located? Thanks for all the good reading and hard work you put out for us here on Lumberjocks. MUCH appreciated.


----------



## tlc

lew said:


> *Update*
> 
> The other day, I posted another rolling pin. There have been several requests about how to make them. I thought I should update this tutorial with the new and improved trimming jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top of jig- hold down clamps, handle, and cutout. The cutout is the main new part to this jig. Previously I was using my tapering jig. The problem I encountered was that if the trimming process was not perfectly flush with the pin blank during the first trimming operation, then the blank would not clamp flat during the next set of trimmings. Because the blank doesn't have to be perfect at this point, I changed the jig so the blank is only supported on the ends during all trimming processes. This eliminated the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom of jig- I used a miter slot runner on this jig, that way I don't have to bother with the rip fence as I did with my taper jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up of the thin pieces that create the knot. I make the thin strips the same width as the pin blank. During the cutting/assembly process, the diagonal slot, for these strips, is cut in the blank but NOT all the way thru. The cut leaves about 1/16" of the blank in tack. This maintains the knots orientation evenly around the blank. The strips stick up a little because of the little part that's not cut. I guess I could be more accurate but not every pin blank ends up exactly 2" square so I don't take any chances.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blank on the jig: When I made the jig, I made it wide and trimmed it on the saw. The saw blade will trim the blank flush with the edge of the jig. So aligning the blank with the edge of the jig trims everything pretty flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up of one end of the strips ready to be cut.
> 
> If anyone has questions, comments or an idea how this could be done any other way, I'm open for new ideas!
> 
> Lew


Lew,

I'm new to L J but I really like your rolling pin design. Is there a link to making the first jig you show in your tutorial? If you could post it I would greatly appreciate it.

Thank You,

Tom


----------



## lew

lew said:


> *Update*
> 
> The other day, I posted another rolling pin. There have been several requests about how to make them. I thought I should update this tutorial with the new and improved trimming jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top of jig- hold down clamps, handle, and cutout. The cutout is the main new part to this jig. Previously I was using my tapering jig. The problem I encountered was that if the trimming process was not perfectly flush with the pin blank during the first trimming operation, then the blank would not clamp flat during the next set of trimmings. Because the blank doesn't have to be perfect at this point, I changed the jig so the blank is only supported on the ends during all trimming processes. This eliminated the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom of jig- I used a miter slot runner on this jig, that way I don't have to bother with the rip fence as I did with my taper jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up of the thin pieces that create the knot. I make the thin strips the same width as the pin blank. During the cutting/assembly process, the diagonal slot, for these strips, is cut in the blank but NOT all the way thru. The cut leaves about 1/16" of the blank in tack. This maintains the knots orientation evenly around the blank. The strips stick up a little because of the little part that's not cut. I guess I could be more accurate but not every pin blank ends up exactly 2" square so I don't take any chances.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blank on the jig: When I made the jig, I made it wide and trimmed it on the saw. The saw blade will trim the blank flush with the edge of the jig. So aligning the blank with the edge of the jig trims everything pretty flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up of one end of the strips ready to be cut.
> 
> If anyone has questions, comments or an idea how this could be done any other way, I'm open for new ideas!
> 
> Lew


Tom,

Thanks for the kind words about the rolling pin. Here is a link that shows the breakdown of the jigs. If you need more, PM me and I will get some more images. http://lumberjocks.com/lew/blog/6086#comments

Lew


----------



## BigTiny

lew said:


> *Update*
> 
> The other day, I posted another rolling pin. There have been several requests about how to make them. I thought I should update this tutorial with the new and improved trimming jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top of jig- hold down clamps, handle, and cutout. The cutout is the main new part to this jig. Previously I was using my tapering jig. The problem I encountered was that if the trimming process was not perfectly flush with the pin blank during the first trimming operation, then the blank would not clamp flat during the next set of trimmings. Because the blank doesn't have to be perfect at this point, I changed the jig so the blank is only supported on the ends during all trimming processes. This eliminated the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom of jig- I used a miter slot runner on this jig, that way I don't have to bother with the rip fence as I did with my taper jig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up of the thin pieces that create the knot. I make the thin strips the same width as the pin blank. During the cutting/assembly process, the diagonal slot, for these strips, is cut in the blank but NOT all the way thru. The cut leaves about 1/16" of the blank in tack. This maintains the knots orientation evenly around the blank. The strips stick up a little because of the little part that's not cut. I guess I could be more accurate but not every pin blank ends up exactly 2" square so I don't take any chances.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blank on the jig: When I made the jig, I made it wide and trimmed it on the saw. The saw blade will trim the blank flush with the edge of the jig. So aligning the blank with the edge of the jig trims everything pretty flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up of one end of the strips ready to be cut.
> 
> If anyone has questions, comments or an idea how this could be done any other way, I'm open for new ideas!
> 
> Lew


Hi Lew.

I know this is an old thread, but it's new to me and I wanted to thank you for taking the time and effort to make it available.

Here's a suggestion for a minor alteration to the improved trimming jig. Since the ends of the blank don't change, make the cutout in the jig exactly two inches at the ends, then widen the cutout about an inch from each end. This would allow you to align the blank in the jig solidly rather than by eye, making for a faster, more supported positioning.

Hope that's of use. If it's not clear, PM me for a better description of what I mean.


----------



## lew

*Additional Update*

I got called up to active duty- substituting full time in an Information Systems Technology class. So this update has been sometime in developing.

Back in the early spring of this year, I had the very great pleasure of meeting the Mason Dixon Wood Working Club. We got together to learn how to make these Celtic Knot rolling pins.

During the workshop session, LJ Karson suggested that it would be easier, and less wasteful, to make a saw kerf for only the walnut strips and leave the original maple center strip untouched. My original construction process was to plow out enough material to inlay 3 strips- 2 walnut sandwiching 1 maple. Well I made up the blanks and they sat for sometime. Only recently could I get a minute here and there to turn them.

When I started on a blank, using Karson's idea, i got an unexpected surprise! The Celtic Knot had a very different appearance.
* Karson's suggestion-*










The crossing sections now had "diamond" shaped sections as compared to the earlier design where the crossings had a more complete look.
*Original Knot-*










I can't decide which I prefer. What do you all think?

Thanks for looking and any suggestions.

Lew


----------



## darryl

lew said:


> *Additional Update*
> 
> I got called up to active duty- substituting full time in an Information Systems Technology class. So this update has been sometime in developing.
> 
> Back in the early spring of this year, I had the very great pleasure of meeting the Mason Dixon Wood Working Club. We got together to learn how to make these Celtic Knot rolling pins.
> 
> During the workshop session, LJ Karson suggested that it would be easier, and less wasteful, to make a saw kerf for only the walnut strips and leave the original maple center strip untouched. My original construction process was to plow out enough material to inlay 3 strips- 2 walnut sandwiching 1 maple. Well I made up the blanks and they sat for sometime. Only recently could I get a minute here and there to turn them.
> 
> When I started on a blank, using Karson's idea, i got an unexpected surprise! The Celtic Knot had a very different appearance.
> * Karson's suggestion-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The crossing sections now had "diamond" shaped sections as compared to the earlier design where the crossings had a more complete look.
> *Original Knot-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't decide which I prefer. What do you all think?
> 
> Thanks for looking and any suggestions.
> 
> Lew


they both look great, but I think the new design does have a little extra "pop" to it.


----------



## SPalm

lew said:


> *Additional Update*
> 
> I got called up to active duty- substituting full time in an Information Systems Technology class. So this update has been sometime in developing.
> 
> Back in the early spring of this year, I had the very great pleasure of meeting the Mason Dixon Wood Working Club. We got together to learn how to make these Celtic Knot rolling pins.
> 
> During the workshop session, LJ Karson suggested that it would be easier, and less wasteful, to make a saw kerf for only the walnut strips and leave the original maple center strip untouched. My original construction process was to plow out enough material to inlay 3 strips- 2 walnut sandwiching 1 maple. Well I made up the blanks and they sat for sometime. Only recently could I get a minute here and there to turn them.
> 
> When I started on a blank, using Karson's idea, i got an unexpected surprise! The Celtic Knot had a very different appearance.
> * Karson's suggestion-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The crossing sections now had "diamond" shaped sections as compared to the earlier design where the crossings had a more complete look.
> *Original Knot-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't decide which I prefer. What do you all think?
> 
> Thanks for looking and any suggestions.
> 
> Lew


Karson's is pretty cool, kind of like looping whirls.

But I vote for the original. The effect is like a ribbon wrapped and woven about the pin.

Cool idea, thanks,
Steve


----------



## CantBurn

lew said:


> *Additional Update*
> 
> I got called up to active duty- substituting full time in an Information Systems Technology class. So this update has been sometime in developing.
> 
> Back in the early spring of this year, I had the very great pleasure of meeting the Mason Dixon Wood Working Club. We got together to learn how to make these Celtic Knot rolling pins.
> 
> During the workshop session, LJ Karson suggested that it would be easier, and less wasteful, to make a saw kerf for only the walnut strips and leave the original maple center strip untouched. My original construction process was to plow out enough material to inlay 3 strips- 2 walnut sandwiching 1 maple. Well I made up the blanks and they sat for sometime. Only recently could I get a minute here and there to turn them.
> 
> When I started on a blank, using Karson's idea, i got an unexpected surprise! The Celtic Knot had a very different appearance.
> * Karson's suggestion-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The crossing sections now had "diamond" shaped sections as compared to the earlier design where the crossings had a more complete look.
> *Original Knot-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't decide which I prefer. What do you all think?
> 
> Thanks for looking and any suggestions.
> 
> Lew


I would also have to vote for the original. I think that is an amazing project. Great job.


----------



## DrAllred

lew said:


> *Additional Update*
> 
> I got called up to active duty- substituting full time in an Information Systems Technology class. So this update has been sometime in developing.
> 
> Back in the early spring of this year, I had the very great pleasure of meeting the Mason Dixon Wood Working Club. We got together to learn how to make these Celtic Knot rolling pins.
> 
> During the workshop session, LJ Karson suggested that it would be easier, and less wasteful, to make a saw kerf for only the walnut strips and leave the original maple center strip untouched. My original construction process was to plow out enough material to inlay 3 strips- 2 walnut sandwiching 1 maple. Well I made up the blanks and they sat for sometime. Only recently could I get a minute here and there to turn them.
> 
> When I started on a blank, using Karson's idea, i got an unexpected surprise! The Celtic Knot had a very different appearance.
> * Karson's suggestion-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The crossing sections now had "diamond" shaped sections as compared to the earlier design where the crossings had a more complete look.
> *Original Knot-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't decide which I prefer. What do you all think?
> 
> Thanks for looking and any suggestions.
> 
> Lew


After showing this to my wife, she likes the Karson's suggestion version, the way the lines interact with each other makes it look more real.


----------



## jbertelson

lew said:


> *Additional Update*
> 
> I got called up to active duty- substituting full time in an Information Systems Technology class. So this update has been sometime in developing.
> 
> Back in the early spring of this year, I had the very great pleasure of meeting the Mason Dixon Wood Working Club. We got together to learn how to make these Celtic Knot rolling pins.
> 
> During the workshop session, LJ Karson suggested that it would be easier, and less wasteful, to make a saw kerf for only the walnut strips and leave the original maple center strip untouched. My original construction process was to plow out enough material to inlay 3 strips- 2 walnut sandwiching 1 maple. Well I made up the blanks and they sat for sometime. Only recently could I get a minute here and there to turn them.
> 
> When I started on a blank, using Karson's idea, i got an unexpected surprise! The Celtic Knot had a very different appearance.
> * Karson's suggestion-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The crossing sections now had "diamond" shaped sections as compared to the earlier design where the crossings had a more complete look.
> *Original Knot-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't decide which I prefer. What do you all think?
> 
> Thanks for looking and any suggestions.
> 
> Lew


I like the original….......but of course I am biased…..........(-:


----------



## Karson

lew said:


> *Additional Update*
> 
> I got called up to active duty- substituting full time in an Information Systems Technology class. So this update has been sometime in developing.
> 
> Back in the early spring of this year, I had the very great pleasure of meeting the Mason Dixon Wood Working Club. We got together to learn how to make these Celtic Knot rolling pins.
> 
> During the workshop session, LJ Karson suggested that it would be easier, and less wasteful, to make a saw kerf for only the walnut strips and leave the original maple center strip untouched. My original construction process was to plow out enough material to inlay 3 strips- 2 walnut sandwiching 1 maple. Well I made up the blanks and they sat for sometime. Only recently could I get a minute here and there to turn them.
> 
> When I started on a blank, using Karson's idea, i got an unexpected surprise! The Celtic Knot had a very different appearance.
> * Karson's suggestion-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The crossing sections now had "diamond" shaped sections as compared to the earlier design where the crossings had a more complete look.
> *Original Knot-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't decide which I prefer. What do you all think?
> 
> Thanks for looking and any suggestions.
> 
> Lew


I'm all for saving wood. I like the top version.

I know that people are going to ask how you did it either way. But they are both very cool.

I know that a couple of the Mason Dixon Woodworkers have made them using the new way, but they didn't have a copy of the earlier version to see the difference.

Jack Dalton made his with handles and a larger diam. pin. He's doing a great job. I think he's somewhere around the #8 I think.


----------



## Karson

lew said:


> *Additional Update*
> 
> I got called up to active duty- substituting full time in an Information Systems Technology class. So this update has been sometime in developing.
> 
> Back in the early spring of this year, I had the very great pleasure of meeting the Mason Dixon Wood Working Club. We got together to learn how to make these Celtic Knot rolling pins.
> 
> During the workshop session, LJ Karson suggested that it would be easier, and less wasteful, to make a saw kerf for only the walnut strips and leave the original maple center strip untouched. My original construction process was to plow out enough material to inlay 3 strips- 2 walnut sandwiching 1 maple. Well I made up the blanks and they sat for sometime. Only recently could I get a minute here and there to turn them.
> 
> When I started on a blank, using Karson's idea, i got an unexpected surprise! The Celtic Knot had a very different appearance.
> * Karson's suggestion-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The crossing sections now had "diamond" shaped sections as compared to the earlier design where the crossings had a more complete look.
> *Original Knot-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't decide which I prefer. What do you all think?
> 
> Thanks for looking and any suggestions.
> 
> Lew


Lew If you wanted to something really strange. You could cut the grove for only one of the Walnut stripes. Do all four sides with only 1 stripe. Then go back and do the second walnut one on all four sides. It would give you even a different look at the knot.

I think where the walnut strips cross it would become a basket weave look.

That would really fake out the people to determine how it was done.


----------



## BigTiny

lew said:


> *Additional Update*
> 
> I got called up to active duty- substituting full time in an Information Systems Technology class. So this update has been sometime in developing.
> 
> Back in the early spring of this year, I had the very great pleasure of meeting the Mason Dixon Wood Working Club. We got together to learn how to make these Celtic Knot rolling pins.
> 
> During the workshop session, LJ Karson suggested that it would be easier, and less wasteful, to make a saw kerf for only the walnut strips and leave the original maple center strip untouched. My original construction process was to plow out enough material to inlay 3 strips- 2 walnut sandwiching 1 maple. Well I made up the blanks and they sat for sometime. Only recently could I get a minute here and there to turn them.
> 
> When I started on a blank, using Karson's idea, i got an unexpected surprise! The Celtic Knot had a very different appearance.
> * Karson's suggestion-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The crossing sections now had "diamond" shaped sections as compared to the earlier design where the crossings had a more complete look.
> *Original Knot-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't decide which I prefer. What do you all think?
> 
> Thanks for looking and any suggestions.
> 
> Lew


Hi Karson.

True, that would make for a different look, *but *it would also *double *the time waiting for glue ups to dry.


----------



## degoose

lew said:


> *Additional Update*
> 
> I got called up to active duty- substituting full time in an Information Systems Technology class. So this update has been sometime in developing.
> 
> Back in the early spring of this year, I had the very great pleasure of meeting the Mason Dixon Wood Working Club. We got together to learn how to make these Celtic Knot rolling pins.
> 
> During the workshop session, LJ Karson suggested that it would be easier, and less wasteful, to make a saw kerf for only the walnut strips and leave the original maple center strip untouched. My original construction process was to plow out enough material to inlay 3 strips- 2 walnut sandwiching 1 maple. Well I made up the blanks and they sat for sometime. Only recently could I get a minute here and there to turn them.
> 
> When I started on a blank, using Karson's idea, i got an unexpected surprise! The Celtic Knot had a very different appearance.
> * Karson's suggestion-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The crossing sections now had "diamond" shaped sections as compared to the earlier design where the crossings had a more complete look.
> *Original Knot-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't decide which I prefer. What do you all think?
> 
> Thanks for looking and any suggestions.
> 
> Lew


I can't work out which of them I like… send me both so I can make a decision…. LOL


----------



## Beginningwoodworker

lew said:


> *Additional Update*
> 
> I got called up to active duty- substituting full time in an Information Systems Technology class. So this update has been sometime in developing.
> 
> Back in the early spring of this year, I had the very great pleasure of meeting the Mason Dixon Wood Working Club. We got together to learn how to make these Celtic Knot rolling pins.
> 
> During the workshop session, LJ Karson suggested that it would be easier, and less wasteful, to make a saw kerf for only the walnut strips and leave the original maple center strip untouched. My original construction process was to plow out enough material to inlay 3 strips- 2 walnut sandwiching 1 maple. Well I made up the blanks and they sat for sometime. Only recently could I get a minute here and there to turn them.
> 
> When I started on a blank, using Karson's idea, i got an unexpected surprise! The Celtic Knot had a very different appearance.
> * Karson's suggestion-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The crossing sections now had "diamond" shaped sections as compared to the earlier design where the crossings had a more complete look.
> *Original Knot-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't decide which I prefer. What do you all think?
> 
> Thanks for looking and any suggestions.
> 
> Lew


Nice work, Karson.


----------



## Karson

lew said:


> *Additional Update*
> 
> I got called up to active duty- substituting full time in an Information Systems Technology class. So this update has been sometime in developing.
> 
> Back in the early spring of this year, I had the very great pleasure of meeting the Mason Dixon Wood Working Club. We got together to learn how to make these Celtic Knot rolling pins.
> 
> During the workshop session, LJ Karson suggested that it would be easier, and less wasteful, to make a saw kerf for only the walnut strips and leave the original maple center strip untouched. My original construction process was to plow out enough material to inlay 3 strips- 2 walnut sandwiching 1 maple. Well I made up the blanks and they sat for sometime. Only recently could I get a minute here and there to turn them.
> 
> When I started on a blank, using Karson's idea, i got an unexpected surprise! The Celtic Knot had a very different appearance.
> * Karson's suggestion-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The crossing sections now had "diamond" shaped sections as compared to the earlier design where the crossings had a more complete look.
> *Original Knot-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't decide which I prefer. What do you all think?
> 
> Thanks for looking and any suggestions.
> 
> Lew


Big Tiny (Not having made one of these yet.) Let me say that an 8 day glue up would be a breeze compared to the current project of making all of my kitchen cabinets.

But I think that would be some of the beauty of it. Doing something that doesn't look doable.


----------



## lew

lew said:


> *Additional Update*
> 
> I got called up to active duty- substituting full time in an Information Systems Technology class. So this update has been sometime in developing.
> 
> Back in the early spring of this year, I had the very great pleasure of meeting the Mason Dixon Wood Working Club. We got together to learn how to make these Celtic Knot rolling pins.
> 
> During the workshop session, LJ Karson suggested that it would be easier, and less wasteful, to make a saw kerf for only the walnut strips and leave the original maple center strip untouched. My original construction process was to plow out enough material to inlay 3 strips- 2 walnut sandwiching 1 maple. Well I made up the blanks and they sat for sometime. Only recently could I get a minute here and there to turn them.
> 
> When I started on a blank, using Karson's idea, i got an unexpected surprise! The Celtic Knot had a very different appearance.
> * Karson's suggestion-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The crossing sections now had "diamond" shaped sections as compared to the earlier design where the crossings had a more complete look.
> *Original Knot-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't decide which I prefer. What do you all think?
> 
> Thanks for looking and any suggestions.
> 
> Lew


Thanks, everyone, for the kind and encouraging words! Looks like we're about split on the favorite. Mimi likes the original, guess you know where this is going.

*Karson-* I will have to try the single strip process and see how it comes out. Will need to do some calculations/trials to get the jig settings correct.

*Darryl- *This method is a little more fussy in trying to get everything exactly aligned or the diamonds do not have equi-distance sides.

*Jim-* Yes, the pizza probably tastes better with yours ;^)

*BigTiny-* glue-ups really don't take that long. Usually 45-60 minutes an I can move to the next side. I usually try to have at least two blanks in process so thing go along pretty good.

Lew


----------



## Bearpie

lew said:


> *Additional Update*
> 
> I got called up to active duty- substituting full time in an Information Systems Technology class. So this update has been sometime in developing.
> 
> Back in the early spring of this year, I had the very great pleasure of meeting the Mason Dixon Wood Working Club. We got together to learn how to make these Celtic Knot rolling pins.
> 
> During the workshop session, LJ Karson suggested that it would be easier, and less wasteful, to make a saw kerf for only the walnut strips and leave the original maple center strip untouched. My original construction process was to plow out enough material to inlay 3 strips- 2 walnut sandwiching 1 maple. Well I made up the blanks and they sat for sometime. Only recently could I get a minute here and there to turn them.
> 
> When I started on a blank, using Karson's idea, i got an unexpected surprise! The Celtic Knot had a very different appearance.
> * Karson's suggestion-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The crossing sections now had "diamond" shaped sections as compared to the earlier design where the crossings had a more complete look.
> *Original Knot-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't decide which I prefer. What do you all think?
> 
> Thanks for looking and any suggestions.
> 
> Lew


I really like both of them, it is like 6 of one and half dozen of the other! Both are very beautiful and anyone will be proud to have either one.

Erwin, Jacksonville, FL


----------



## Den

lew said:


> *Additional Update*
> 
> I got called up to active duty- substituting full time in an Information Systems Technology class. So this update has been sometime in developing.
> 
> Back in the early spring of this year, I had the very great pleasure of meeting the Mason Dixon Wood Working Club. We got together to learn how to make these Celtic Knot rolling pins.
> 
> During the workshop session, LJ Karson suggested that it would be easier, and less wasteful, to make a saw kerf for only the walnut strips and leave the original maple center strip untouched. My original construction process was to plow out enough material to inlay 3 strips- 2 walnut sandwiching 1 maple. Well I made up the blanks and they sat for sometime. Only recently could I get a minute here and there to turn them.
> 
> When I started on a blank, using Karson's idea, i got an unexpected surprise! The Celtic Knot had a very different appearance.
> * Karson's suggestion-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The crossing sections now had "diamond" shaped sections as compared to the earlier design where the crossings had a more complete look.
> *Original Knot-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't decide which I prefer. What do you all think?
> 
> Thanks for looking and any suggestions.
> 
> Lew


I like both of them, however I do like the last one I think more.


----------



## sedcokid

lew said:


> *Additional Update*
> 
> I got called up to active duty- substituting full time in an Information Systems Technology class. So this update has been sometime in developing.
> 
> Back in the early spring of this year, I had the very great pleasure of meeting the Mason Dixon Wood Working Club. We got together to learn how to make these Celtic Knot rolling pins.
> 
> During the workshop session, LJ Karson suggested that it would be easier, and less wasteful, to make a saw kerf for only the walnut strips and leave the original maple center strip untouched. My original construction process was to plow out enough material to inlay 3 strips- 2 walnut sandwiching 1 maple. Well I made up the blanks and they sat for sometime. Only recently could I get a minute here and there to turn them.
> 
> When I started on a blank, using Karson's idea, i got an unexpected surprise! The Celtic Knot had a very different appearance.
> * Karson's suggestion-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The crossing sections now had "diamond" shaped sections as compared to the earlier design where the crossings had a more complete look.
> *Original Knot-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't decide which I prefer. What do you all think?
> 
> Thanks for looking and any suggestions.
> 
> Lew


I like Den like both of them too, however I like the first one a bit more!

Thanks For Sharing!


----------



## fernandoindia

lew said:


> *Additional Update*
> 
> I got called up to active duty- substituting full time in an Information Systems Technology class. So this update has been sometime in developing.
> 
> Back in the early spring of this year, I had the very great pleasure of meeting the Mason Dixon Wood Working Club. We got together to learn how to make these Celtic Knot rolling pins.
> 
> During the workshop session, LJ Karson suggested that it would be easier, and less wasteful, to make a saw kerf for only the walnut strips and leave the original maple center strip untouched. My original construction process was to plow out enough material to inlay 3 strips- 2 walnut sandwiching 1 maple. Well I made up the blanks and they sat for sometime. Only recently could I get a minute here and there to turn them.
> 
> When I started on a blank, using Karson's idea, i got an unexpected surprise! The Celtic Knot had a very different appearance.
> * Karson's suggestion-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The crossing sections now had "diamond" shaped sections as compared to the earlier design where the crossings had a more complete look.
> *Original Knot-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't decide which I prefer. What do you all think?
> 
> Thanks for looking and any suggestions.
> 
> Lew


Hi Lew & Karson,

Well I would still like more the original, since it appears to provide a more 3d view. However Karson´s diamond crossing type, looks as nice, and seems to be more complicated construction wise. At least for me. I will re read the tutorial so as to completely understand Karson´s challenge.

Thank you both, and take care


----------



## Edward

lew said:


> *Additional Update*
> 
> I got called up to active duty- substituting full time in an Information Systems Technology class. So this update has been sometime in developing.
> 
> Back in the early spring of this year, I had the very great pleasure of meeting the Mason Dixon Wood Working Club. We got together to learn how to make these Celtic Knot rolling pins.
> 
> During the workshop session, LJ Karson suggested that it would be easier, and less wasteful, to make a saw kerf for only the walnut strips and leave the original maple center strip untouched. My original construction process was to plow out enough material to inlay 3 strips- 2 walnut sandwiching 1 maple. Well I made up the blanks and they sat for sometime. Only recently could I get a minute here and there to turn them.
> 
> When I started on a blank, using Karson's idea, i got an unexpected surprise! The Celtic Knot had a very different appearance.
> * Karson's suggestion-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The crossing sections now had "diamond" shaped sections as compared to the earlier design where the crossings had a more complete look.
> *Original Knot-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't decide which I prefer. What do you all think?
> 
> Thanks for looking and any suggestions.
> 
> Lew


LEW…. We had a good time having you down @ MDWW. I made 6 pins for Christmas the new way. I seem to 
like this new way. I didn't really notice the difference for a few days after turnning one. As you said , it
does makes a difference if thing aren't lined up. 
Karson won't be making any pins for awhile, he has too much work to do on his kitcen. Therefore, don't hold
your breath!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

ED


----------



## Shuja

lew said:


> *Additional Update*
> 
> I got called up to active duty- substituting full time in an Information Systems Technology class. So this update has been sometime in developing.
> 
> Back in the early spring of this year, I had the very great pleasure of meeting the Mason Dixon Wood Working Club. We got together to learn how to make these Celtic Knot rolling pins.
> 
> During the workshop session, LJ Karson suggested that it would be easier, and less wasteful, to make a saw kerf for only the walnut strips and leave the original maple center strip untouched. My original construction process was to plow out enough material to inlay 3 strips- 2 walnut sandwiching 1 maple. Well I made up the blanks and they sat for sometime. Only recently could I get a minute here and there to turn them.
> 
> When I started on a blank, using Karson's idea, i got an unexpected surprise! The Celtic Knot had a very different appearance.
> * Karson's suggestion-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The crossing sections now had "diamond" shaped sections as compared to the earlier design where the crossings had a more complete look.
> *Original Knot-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't decide which I prefer. What do you all think?
> 
> Thanks for looking and any suggestions.
> 
> Lew


no exaggeration when you said you over engineer everything
but fantastic results


----------



## lew

lew said:


> *Additional Update*
> 
> I got called up to active duty- substituting full time in an Information Systems Technology class. So this update has been sometime in developing.
> 
> Back in the early spring of this year, I had the very great pleasure of meeting the Mason Dixon Wood Working Club. We got together to learn how to make these Celtic Knot rolling pins.
> 
> During the workshop session, LJ Karson suggested that it would be easier, and less wasteful, to make a saw kerf for only the walnut strips and leave the original maple center strip untouched. My original construction process was to plow out enough material to inlay 3 strips- 2 walnut sandwiching 1 maple. Well I made up the blanks and they sat for sometime. Only recently could I get a minute here and there to turn them.
> 
> When I started on a blank, using Karson's idea, i got an unexpected surprise! The Celtic Knot had a very different appearance.
> * Karson's suggestion-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The crossing sections now had "diamond" shaped sections as compared to the earlier design where the crossings had a more complete look.
> *Original Knot-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't decide which I prefer. What do you all think?
> 
> Thanks for looking and any suggestions.
> 
> Lew


Thanks for the kind words, Shuja!


----------



## jetwhoop

lew said:


> *Additional Update*
> 
> I got called up to active duty- substituting full time in an Information Systems Technology class. So this update has been sometime in developing.
> 
> Back in the early spring of this year, I had the very great pleasure of meeting the Mason Dixon Wood Working Club. We got together to learn how to make these Celtic Knot rolling pins.
> 
> During the workshop session, LJ Karson suggested that it would be easier, and less wasteful, to make a saw kerf for only the walnut strips and leave the original maple center strip untouched. My original construction process was to plow out enough material to inlay 3 strips- 2 walnut sandwiching 1 maple. Well I made up the blanks and they sat for sometime. Only recently could I get a minute here and there to turn them.
> 
> When I started on a blank, using Karson's idea, i got an unexpected surprise! The Celtic Knot had a very different appearance.
> * Karson's suggestion-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The crossing sections now had "diamond" shaped sections as compared to the earlier design where the crossings had a more complete look.
> *Original Knot-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't decide which I prefer. What do you all think?
> 
> Thanks for looking and any suggestions.
> 
> Lew


I really enjoyed reading this blog tutorial, You make it seem so easy even I might be able to make a good one. Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge and experience.


----------



## lew

lew said:


> *Additional Update*
> 
> I got called up to active duty- substituting full time in an Information Systems Technology class. So this update has been sometime in developing.
> 
> Back in the early spring of this year, I had the very great pleasure of meeting the Mason Dixon Wood Working Club. We got together to learn how to make these Celtic Knot rolling pins.
> 
> During the workshop session, LJ Karson suggested that it would be easier, and less wasteful, to make a saw kerf for only the walnut strips and leave the original maple center strip untouched. My original construction process was to plow out enough material to inlay 3 strips- 2 walnut sandwiching 1 maple. Well I made up the blanks and they sat for sometime. Only recently could I get a minute here and there to turn them.
> 
> When I started on a blank, using Karson's idea, i got an unexpected surprise! The Celtic Knot had a very different appearance.
> * Karson's suggestion-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The crossing sections now had "diamond" shaped sections as compared to the earlier design where the crossings had a more complete look.
> *Original Knot-*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't decide which I prefer. What do you all think?
> 
> Thanks for looking and any suggestions.
> 
> Lew


Thanks for the kind words "jetwhoop"!

Love to see what you come up with.


----------



## lew

*Yet Another Update*

Thought I would add a couple of additional "discoveries" on making these rolling pins. One of my obvious problems is that I always over think or over engineer everything.

The Trim Jig is one of those examples. It now hangs, useless, along with so many other jigs that I have abandoned for a better way. Trimming the glued up inserts is easier, faster and less hassle if done on the band saw. No jig is require and the table saw blade height does not have to be changed between operations- not having to readjust the blade is a big plus if you are as forgetful as me. A 1/4" to 3/8" fine tooth band saw blade will slide along the square blank and trim off the excess insert material.

Some of you enjoy sanding. Sadly, I do not. In the past, sanding these pins was done on the lathe using sheet paper. This time I used my random orbital sander while the pins were spinning on the lathe. Much more efficient and none of those irritating little sanding line that only show up AFTER you apply the finish. Here is a picture of the last batch-










Thanks for looking! Comments, compliments and complaints are always welcome!

Lew


----------



## BoxBuilder

lew said:


> *Yet Another Update*
> 
> Thought I would add a couple of additional "discoveries" on making these rolling pins. One of my obvious problems is that I always over think or over engineer everything.
> 
> The Trim Jig is one of those examples. It now hangs, useless, along with so many other jigs that I have abandoned for a better way. Trimming the glued up inserts is easier, faster and less hassle if done on the band saw. No jig is require and the table saw blade height does not have to be changed between operations- not having to readjust the blade is a big plus if you are as forgetful as me. A 1/4" to 3/8" fine tooth band saw blade will slide along the square blank and trim off the excess insert material.
> 
> Some of you enjoy sanding. Sadly, I do not. In the past, sanding these pins was done on the lathe using sheet paper. This time I used my random orbital sander while the pins were spinning on the lathe. Much more efficient and none of those irritating little sanding line that only show up AFTER you apply the finish. Here is a picture of the last batch-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking! Comments, compliments and complaints are always welcome!
> 
> Lew


Absolutely beautiful!!!! I am not much of a woodturner but I can appreciate great work when I see it!


----------



## KayBee

lew said:


> *Yet Another Update*
> 
> Thought I would add a couple of additional "discoveries" on making these rolling pins. One of my obvious problems is that I always over think or over engineer everything.
> 
> The Trim Jig is one of those examples. It now hangs, useless, along with so many other jigs that I have abandoned for a better way. Trimming the glued up inserts is easier, faster and less hassle if done on the band saw. No jig is require and the table saw blade height does not have to be changed between operations- not having to readjust the blade is a big plus if you are as forgetful as me. A 1/4" to 3/8" fine tooth band saw blade will slide along the square blank and trim off the excess insert material.
> 
> Some of you enjoy sanding. Sadly, I do not. In the past, sanding these pins was done on the lathe using sheet paper. This time I used my random orbital sander while the pins were spinning on the lathe. Much more efficient and none of those irritating little sanding line that only show up AFTER you apply the finish. Here is a picture of the last batch-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking! Comments, compliments and complaints are always welcome!
> 
> Lew


Thanks for sharing all this great info!


----------



## Karson

lew said:


> *Yet Another Update*
> 
> Thought I would add a couple of additional "discoveries" on making these rolling pins. One of my obvious problems is that I always over think or over engineer everything.
> 
> The Trim Jig is one of those examples. It now hangs, useless, along with so many other jigs that I have abandoned for a better way. Trimming the glued up inserts is easier, faster and less hassle if done on the band saw. No jig is require and the table saw blade height does not have to be changed between operations- not having to readjust the blade is a big plus if you are as forgetful as me. A 1/4" to 3/8" fine tooth band saw blade will slide along the square blank and trim off the excess insert material.
> 
> Some of you enjoy sanding. Sadly, I do not. In the past, sanding these pins was done on the lathe using sheet paper. This time I used my random orbital sander while the pins were spinning on the lathe. Much more efficient and none of those irritating little sanding line that only show up AFTER you apply the finish. Here is a picture of the last batch-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking! Comments, compliments and complaints are always welcome!
> 
> Lew


My eyes are going in circles. I might have to bring you some more darker wood.


----------



## Karson

lew said:


> *Yet Another Update*
> 
> Thought I would add a couple of additional "discoveries" on making these rolling pins. One of my obvious problems is that I always over think or over engineer everything.
> 
> The Trim Jig is one of those examples. It now hangs, useless, along with so many other jigs that I have abandoned for a better way. Trimming the glued up inserts is easier, faster and less hassle if done on the band saw. No jig is require and the table saw blade height does not have to be changed between operations- not having to readjust the blade is a big plus if you are as forgetful as me. A 1/4" to 3/8" fine tooth band saw blade will slide along the square blank and trim off the excess insert material.
> 
> Some of you enjoy sanding. Sadly, I do not. In the past, sanding these pins was done on the lathe using sheet paper. This time I used my random orbital sander while the pins were spinning on the lathe. Much more efficient and none of those irritating little sanding line that only show up AFTER you apply the finish. Here is a picture of the last batch-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking! Comments, compliments and complaints are always welcome!
> 
> Lew


Lew I saw a rolling pin at Cracker Barrel last night. It had ridges in it and I kept trying to figure out what it was for.

My wife finally suggested that it might be to cut noodles. After the people at that table left I went over and took a look, Each groove was a 45 degree angle on one sdie and a straight cut on the other. It was probably 1/8" deep and maybe 1/8" between grooves. It was cool looking. It had handles though and was not like your version.


----------



## lew

lew said:


> *Yet Another Update*
> 
> Thought I would add a couple of additional "discoveries" on making these rolling pins. One of my obvious problems is that I always over think or over engineer everything.
> 
> The Trim Jig is one of those examples. It now hangs, useless, along with so many other jigs that I have abandoned for a better way. Trimming the glued up inserts is easier, faster and less hassle if done on the band saw. No jig is require and the table saw blade height does not have to be changed between operations- not having to readjust the blade is a big plus if you are as forgetful as me. A 1/4" to 3/8" fine tooth band saw blade will slide along the square blank and trim off the excess insert material.
> 
> Some of you enjoy sanding. Sadly, I do not. In the past, sanding these pins was done on the lathe using sheet paper. This time I used my random orbital sander while the pins were spinning on the lathe. Much more efficient and none of those irritating little sanding line that only show up AFTER you apply the finish. Here is a picture of the last batch-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking! Comments, compliments and complaints are always welcome!
> 
> Lew


Karson,
I think it was a pasta (noodle) cutting rolling pin. I've seen pictures of them but never had the chance to actually handle one.

Lew


----------



## Beginningwoodworker

lew said:


> *Yet Another Update*
> 
> Thought I would add a couple of additional "discoveries" on making these rolling pins. One of my obvious problems is that I always over think or over engineer everything.
> 
> The Trim Jig is one of those examples. It now hangs, useless, along with so many other jigs that I have abandoned for a better way. Trimming the glued up inserts is easier, faster and less hassle if done on the band saw. No jig is require and the table saw blade height does not have to be changed between operations- not having to readjust the blade is a big plus if you are as forgetful as me. A 1/4" to 3/8" fine tooth band saw blade will slide along the square blank and trim off the excess insert material.
> 
> Some of you enjoy sanding. Sadly, I do not. In the past, sanding these pins was done on the lathe using sheet paper. This time I used my random orbital sander while the pins were spinning on the lathe. Much more efficient and none of those irritating little sanding line that only show up AFTER you apply the finish. Here is a picture of the last batch-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking! Comments, compliments and complaints are always welcome!
> 
> Lew


Beautiful work, Lew.


----------



## Woodwrecker

lew said:


> *Yet Another Update*
> 
> Thought I would add a couple of additional "discoveries" on making these rolling pins. One of my obvious problems is that I always over think or over engineer everything.
> 
> The Trim Jig is one of those examples. It now hangs, useless, along with so many other jigs that I have abandoned for a better way. Trimming the glued up inserts is easier, faster and less hassle if done on the band saw. No jig is require and the table saw blade height does not have to be changed between operations- not having to readjust the blade is a big plus if you are as forgetful as me. A 1/4" to 3/8" fine tooth band saw blade will slide along the square blank and trim off the excess insert material.
> 
> Some of you enjoy sanding. Sadly, I do not. In the past, sanding these pins was done on the lathe using sheet paper. This time I used my random orbital sander while the pins were spinning on the lathe. Much more efficient and none of those irritating little sanding line that only show up AFTER you apply the finish. Here is a picture of the last batch-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking! Comments, compliments and complaints are always welcome!
> 
> Lew


When I get going in the shop again lew, I've got to try some of those. Maybe for Christmas presents.
Thanks for all you do for the rest of us.


----------



## Karson

lew said:


> *Yet Another Update*
> 
> Thought I would add a couple of additional "discoveries" on making these rolling pins. One of my obvious problems is that I always over think or over engineer everything.
> 
> The Trim Jig is one of those examples. It now hangs, useless, along with so many other jigs that I have abandoned for a better way. Trimming the glued up inserts is easier, faster and less hassle if done on the band saw. No jig is require and the table saw blade height does not have to be changed between operations- not having to readjust the blade is a big plus if you are as forgetful as me. A 1/4" to 3/8" fine tooth band saw blade will slide along the square blank and trim off the excess insert material.
> 
> Some of you enjoy sanding. Sadly, I do not. In the past, sanding these pins was done on the lathe using sheet paper. This time I used my random orbital sander while the pins were spinning on the lathe. Much more efficient and none of those irritating little sanding line that only show up AFTER you apply the finish. Here is a picture of the last batch-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking! Comments, compliments and complaints are always welcome!
> 
> Lew


Well the one in Cracker Barrel was screwed to the wall.


----------



## lew

lew said:


> *Yet Another Update*
> 
> Thought I would add a couple of additional "discoveries" on making these rolling pins. One of my obvious problems is that I always over think or over engineer everything.
> 
> The Trim Jig is one of those examples. It now hangs, useless, along with so many other jigs that I have abandoned for a better way. Trimming the glued up inserts is easier, faster and less hassle if done on the band saw. No jig is require and the table saw blade height does not have to be changed between operations- not having to readjust the blade is a big plus if you are as forgetful as me. A 1/4" to 3/8" fine tooth band saw blade will slide along the square blank and trim off the excess insert material.
> 
> Some of you enjoy sanding. Sadly, I do not. In the past, sanding these pins was done on the lathe using sheet paper. This time I used my random orbital sander while the pins were spinning on the lathe. Much more efficient and none of those irritating little sanding line that only show up AFTER you apply the finish. Here is a picture of the last batch-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking! Comments, compliments and complaints are always welcome!
> 
> Lew


Karson,
This looks easy enough to make-










Web site said it is 3 " diameter x 13" long and is made of Cherry.

Lew


----------



## jbertelson

lew said:


> *Yet Another Update*
> 
> Thought I would add a couple of additional "discoveries" on making these rolling pins. One of my obvious problems is that I always over think or over engineer everything.
> 
> The Trim Jig is one of those examples. It now hangs, useless, along with so many other jigs that I have abandoned for a better way. Trimming the glued up inserts is easier, faster and less hassle if done on the band saw. No jig is require and the table saw blade height does not have to be changed between operations- not having to readjust the blade is a big plus if you are as forgetful as me. A 1/4" to 3/8" fine tooth band saw blade will slide along the square blank and trim off the excess insert material.
> 
> Some of you enjoy sanding. Sadly, I do not. In the past, sanding these pins was done on the lathe using sheet paper. This time I used my random orbital sander while the pins were spinning on the lathe. Much more efficient and none of those irritating little sanding line that only show up AFTER you apply the finish. Here is a picture of the last batch-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking! Comments, compliments and complaints are always welcome!
> 
> Lew


Gad zooks, lot of happiness lined up on that bench. You is on a roll…......(-:

Pin intended….....................


----------



## Edward

lew said:


> *Yet Another Update*
> 
> Thought I would add a couple of additional "discoveries" on making these rolling pins. One of my obvious problems is that I always over think or over engineer everything.
> 
> The Trim Jig is one of those examples. It now hangs, useless, along with so many other jigs that I have abandoned for a better way. Trimming the glued up inserts is easier, faster and less hassle if done on the band saw. No jig is require and the table saw blade height does not have to be changed between operations- not having to readjust the blade is a big plus if you are as forgetful as me. A 1/4" to 3/8" fine tooth band saw blade will slide along the square blank and trim off the excess insert material.
> 
> Some of you enjoy sanding. Sadly, I do not. In the past, sanding these pins was done on the lathe using sheet paper. This time I used my random orbital sander while the pins were spinning on the lathe. Much more efficient and none of those irritating little sanding line that only show up AFTER you apply the finish. Here is a picture of the last batch-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking! Comments, compliments and complaints are always welcome!
> 
> Lew


LEW…...Great work. I like the tricolor pins. I'll have to try some.As, to trimming them I've been doing just what
said, all along. Real simple.

As you know I don't cut out the center 1/8" material, giving a small diamond @ the crossings. With the
tricolor ones I'l have to remove all the material.

Keep up the fantastic work

ED

I'm still working on my Dado Plane. I broke the blade, oops!!

e


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## SPalm

lew said:


> *Yet Another Update*
> 
> Thought I would add a couple of additional "discoveries" on making these rolling pins. One of my obvious problems is that I always over think or over engineer everything.
> 
> The Trim Jig is one of those examples. It now hangs, useless, along with so many other jigs that I have abandoned for a better way. Trimming the glued up inserts is easier, faster and less hassle if done on the band saw. No jig is require and the table saw blade height does not have to be changed between operations- not having to readjust the blade is a big plus if you are as forgetful as me. A 1/4" to 3/8" fine tooth band saw blade will slide along the square blank and trim off the excess insert material.
> 
> Some of you enjoy sanding. Sadly, I do not. In the past, sanding these pins was done on the lathe using sheet paper. This time I used my random orbital sander while the pins were spinning on the lathe. Much more efficient and none of those irritating little sanding line that only show up AFTER you apply the finish. Here is a picture of the last batch-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking! Comments, compliments and complaints are always welcome!
> 
> Lew


Nice, Lew.
Cranking them out.
I see you stayed with the original design, where the ribbons overlap. I like it.

Good tip on sanding. Anything to ease the pain.
Steve


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## Ken90712

lew said:


> *Yet Another Update*
> 
> Thought I would add a couple of additional "discoveries" on making these rolling pins. One of my obvious problems is that I always over think or over engineer everything.
> 
> The Trim Jig is one of those examples. It now hangs, useless, along with so many other jigs that I have abandoned for a better way. Trimming the glued up inserts is easier, faster and less hassle if done on the band saw. No jig is require and the table saw blade height does not have to be changed between operations- not having to readjust the blade is a big plus if you are as forgetful as me. A 1/4" to 3/8" fine tooth band saw blade will slide along the square blank and trim off the excess insert material.
> 
> Some of you enjoy sanding. Sadly, I do not. In the past, sanding these pins was done on the lathe using sheet paper. This time I used my random orbital sander while the pins were spinning on the lathe. Much more efficient and none of those irritating little sanding line that only show up AFTER you apply the finish. Here is a picture of the last batch-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking! Comments, compliments and complaints are always welcome!
> 
> Lew


Amazing, I love them. I have really been studying how to make these the past few days. Will be giving it a go this weekend if time permits with other projects! Great Blog you have done here many Thx to you for taking the time. Hope all is well Lew!!!!!


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## AJ_Engineer

lew said:


> *Yet Another Update*
> 
> Thought I would add a couple of additional "discoveries" on making these rolling pins. One of my obvious problems is that I always over think or over engineer everything.
> 
> The Trim Jig is one of those examples. It now hangs, useless, along with so many other jigs that I have abandoned for a better way. Trimming the glued up inserts is easier, faster and less hassle if done on the band saw. No jig is require and the table saw blade height does not have to be changed between operations- not having to readjust the blade is a big plus if you are as forgetful as me. A 1/4" to 3/8" fine tooth band saw blade will slide along the square blank and trim off the excess insert material.
> 
> Some of you enjoy sanding. Sadly, I do not. In the past, sanding these pins was done on the lathe using sheet paper. This time I used my random orbital sander while the pins were spinning on the lathe. Much more efficient and none of those irritating little sanding line that only show up AFTER you apply the finish. Here is a picture of the last batch-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking! Comments, compliments and complaints are always welcome!
> 
> Lew


Very clever!


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## lew

lew said:


> *Yet Another Update*
> 
> Thought I would add a couple of additional "discoveries" on making these rolling pins. One of my obvious problems is that I always over think or over engineer everything.
> 
> The Trim Jig is one of those examples. It now hangs, useless, along with so many other jigs that I have abandoned for a better way. Trimming the glued up inserts is easier, faster and less hassle if done on the band saw. No jig is require and the table saw blade height does not have to be changed between operations- not having to readjust the blade is a big plus if you are as forgetful as me. A 1/4" to 3/8" fine tooth band saw blade will slide along the square blank and trim off the excess insert material.
> 
> Some of you enjoy sanding. Sadly, I do not. In the past, sanding these pins was done on the lathe using sheet paper. This time I used my random orbital sander while the pins were spinning on the lathe. Much more efficient and none of those irritating little sanding line that only show up AFTER you apply the finish. Here is a picture of the last batch-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking! Comments, compliments and complaints are always welcome!
> 
> Lew


Thanks, AJ


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## Druid

lew said:


> *Yet Another Update*
> 
> Thought I would add a couple of additional "discoveries" on making these rolling pins. One of my obvious problems is that I always over think or over engineer everything.
> 
> The Trim Jig is one of those examples. It now hangs, useless, along with so many other jigs that I have abandoned for a better way. Trimming the glued up inserts is easier, faster and less hassle if done on the band saw. No jig is require and the table saw blade height does not have to be changed between operations- not having to readjust the blade is a big plus if you are as forgetful as me. A 1/4" to 3/8" fine tooth band saw blade will slide along the square blank and trim off the excess insert material.
> 
> Some of you enjoy sanding. Sadly, I do not. In the past, sanding these pins was done on the lathe using sheet paper. This time I used my random orbital sander while the pins were spinning on the lathe. Much more efficient and none of those irritating little sanding line that only show up AFTER you apply the finish. Here is a picture of the last batch-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking! Comments, compliments and complaints are always welcome!
> 
> Lew


Great clear explanation. Thanks for putting the effort into sharing with all of us.


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## lew

lew said:


> *Yet Another Update*
> 
> Thought I would add a couple of additional "discoveries" on making these rolling pins. One of my obvious problems is that I always over think or over engineer everything.
> 
> The Trim Jig is one of those examples. It now hangs, useless, along with so many other jigs that I have abandoned for a better way. Trimming the glued up inserts is easier, faster and less hassle if done on the band saw. No jig is require and the table saw blade height does not have to be changed between operations- not having to readjust the blade is a big plus if you are as forgetful as me. A 1/4" to 3/8" fine tooth band saw blade will slide along the square blank and trim off the excess insert material.
> 
> Some of you enjoy sanding. Sadly, I do not. In the past, sanding these pins was done on the lathe using sheet paper. This time I used my random orbital sander while the pins were spinning on the lathe. Much more efficient and none of those irritating little sanding line that only show up AFTER you apply the finish. Here is a picture of the last batch-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking! Comments, compliments and complaints are always welcome!
> 
> Lew


Thanks, John!


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## Vigilantewoodworker

lew said:


> *Yet Another Update*
> 
> Thought I would add a couple of additional "discoveries" on making these rolling pins. One of my obvious problems is that I always over think or over engineer everything.
> 
> The Trim Jig is one of those examples. It now hangs, useless, along with so many other jigs that I have abandoned for a better way. Trimming the glued up inserts is easier, faster and less hassle if done on the band saw. No jig is require and the table saw blade height does not have to be changed between operations- not having to readjust the blade is a big plus if you are as forgetful as me. A 1/4" to 3/8" fine tooth band saw blade will slide along the square blank and trim off the excess insert material.
> 
> Some of you enjoy sanding. Sadly, I do not. In the past, sanding these pins was done on the lathe using sheet paper. This time I used my random orbital sander while the pins were spinning on the lathe. Much more efficient and none of those irritating little sanding line that only show up AFTER you apply the finish. Here is a picture of the last batch-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking! Comments, compliments and complaints are always welcome!
> 
> Lew












Looks like I got a little ahead of myself on this one. Cut it out and glued it up through out the week as time permitted. I was so excited to see what it would look like as I started to turn it. Took me awhile to see it, but looks like I messed up between glue ups… Time to give it another go. Thanks for the blog to follow. It's been a wonderful guide.

Cheers
-PAJA


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## HillbillyShooter

lew said:


> *Yet Another Update*
> 
> Thought I would add a couple of additional "discoveries" on making these rolling pins. One of my obvious problems is that I always over think or over engineer everything.
> 
> The Trim Jig is one of those examples. It now hangs, useless, along with so many other jigs that I have abandoned for a better way. Trimming the glued up inserts is easier, faster and less hassle if done on the band saw. No jig is require and the table saw blade height does not have to be changed between operations- not having to readjust the blade is a big plus if you are as forgetful as me. A 1/4" to 3/8" fine tooth band saw blade will slide along the square blank and trim off the excess insert material.
> 
> Some of you enjoy sanding. Sadly, I do not. In the past, sanding these pins was done on the lathe using sheet paper. This time I used my random orbital sander while the pins were spinning on the lathe. Much more efficient and none of those irritating little sanding line that only show up AFTER you apply the finish. Here is a picture of the last batch-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking! Comments, compliments and complaints are always welcome!
> 
> Lew


Great blog! Now I understand how you make those outstanding rolling pins. I'm not a turner, but between these Cletic pins and other projects (such as Jim J and cajunpen post), I may have to break down and get a lathe. Thanks for a clear and very informative blog series.


----------



## lew

lew said:


> *Yet Another Update*
> 
> Thought I would add a couple of additional "discoveries" on making these rolling pins. One of my obvious problems is that I always over think or over engineer everything.
> 
> The Trim Jig is one of those examples. It now hangs, useless, along with so many other jigs that I have abandoned for a better way. Trimming the glued up inserts is easier, faster and less hassle if done on the band saw. No jig is require and the table saw blade height does not have to be changed between operations- not having to readjust the blade is a big plus if you are as forgetful as me. A 1/4" to 3/8" fine tooth band saw blade will slide along the square blank and trim off the excess insert material.
> 
> Some of you enjoy sanding. Sadly, I do not. In the past, sanding these pins was done on the lathe using sheet paper. This time I used my random orbital sander while the pins were spinning on the lathe. Much more efficient and none of those irritating little sanding line that only show up AFTER you apply the finish. Here is a picture of the last batch-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking! Comments, compliments and complaints are always welcome!
> 
> Lew


PAJA- It still looks nice!

I've glued in the inserts and then without thinking, cut them right back out! To help avoid doing this too often, I number the ends of the square blank as a reference.


----------



## Ken90712

lew said:


> *Yet Another Update*
> 
> Thought I would add a couple of additional "discoveries" on making these rolling pins. One of my obvious problems is that I always over think or over engineer everything.
> 
> The Trim Jig is one of those examples. It now hangs, useless, along with so many other jigs that I have abandoned for a better way. Trimming the glued up inserts is easier, faster and less hassle if done on the band saw. No jig is require and the table saw blade height does not have to be changed between operations- not having to readjust the blade is a big plus if you are as forgetful as me. A 1/4" to 3/8" fine tooth band saw blade will slide along the square blank and trim off the excess insert material.
> 
> Some of you enjoy sanding. Sadly, I do not. In the past, sanding these pins was done on the lathe using sheet paper. This time I used my random orbital sander while the pins were spinning on the lathe. Much more efficient and none of those irritating little sanding line that only show up AFTER you apply the finish. Here is a picture of the last batch-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking! Comments, compliments and complaints are always welcome!
> 
> Lew


The Blog was awesome I have always wanted to get a lathe and do these. Thx for sharing….


----------



## lew

lew said:


> *Yet Another Update*
> 
> Thought I would add a couple of additional "discoveries" on making these rolling pins. One of my obvious problems is that I always over think or over engineer everything.
> 
> The Trim Jig is one of those examples. It now hangs, useless, along with so many other jigs that I have abandoned for a better way. Trimming the glued up inserts is easier, faster and less hassle if done on the band saw. No jig is require and the table saw blade height does not have to be changed between operations- not having to readjust the blade is a big plus if you are as forgetful as me. A 1/4" to 3/8" fine tooth band saw blade will slide along the square blank and trim off the excess insert material.
> 
> Some of you enjoy sanding. Sadly, I do not. In the past, sanding these pins was done on the lathe using sheet paper. This time I used my random orbital sander while the pins were spinning on the lathe. Much more efficient and none of those irritating little sanding line that only show up AFTER you apply the finish. Here is a picture of the last batch-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking! Comments, compliments and complaints are always welcome!
> 
> Lew


Thanks, Ken!

I'll bet your machine shop buddy would allow you to try one of these on his lathe!


----------

