# Choseing a hammer!



## Beginningwoodworker

I am looking at getting another hammer, I need something I can use on the job and in the shop! looking to spend 20 to 30 bucks. I have these hammers in mind.

http://www.tools-plus.com/estwing-e-16c.html

http://www.tools-plus.com/vaughan-99.html


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## jack1

Go with the Estwing. I've had mine for 17+years still works well. I also have the hand axe that looks the same that I've had for 25 years and is still very sharp. 
My son is a contractor and said to avoid the titaniums. They actually can hurt you because they don't absorb the shock. He also said the Vaughn was good but he also likes the Estwing.

Jack


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## Beginningwoodworker

I have a titanium hammer but it aint no good!


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## Alexandre

Estwing hammers are the best…. They will last you a LIFETIME!.


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## JAGWAH

I've had both and either is a good hammer. I currently use a 20oz Douglas that I think is the best hammer I've ever had in my 40 plus years as a carpenter. But they are not cheep $60 plus. If I'm not swinging this I use a 16oz Estwing with a blue handle or for fine work my 13oz Blugrass. I started out as a young man swinging a 16oz hollow steel handled True Temper, broke a lot of those.

You'll go through many hammers in your life so enjoy each one as your craftsmanship improves.
corrected to an estwing because Sawkerf made me realize I messed up


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## Sawkerf

Hammer choices are really subjective, and it's all about what you prefer and are most comfortable with. My "go-to" hammer is a 16 oz Vaughn (I actuallt have two of them) with a wood handle. I have several others ranging from a 22 oz waffle faced framing hammer (Eastwing) down to an 8 oz claw hammer that I've had since Moby Dick was a minnow. For overall comfort, I grab one of the Vaughn's every time.


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## Beginningwoodworker

I use nail guns for 90% of my nailing so I rather have a 16oz.


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## bhog

I switched from estwing to plumb.Much more comfy to me.I used estwing for yrs and my bro in law helped me on a few jobs 2 yrs ago and was sold after using his a couple times.
Driving 7d up to 60d ringers you will feel a difference.They also wont spontaneously fly out of your hand as much either.Seem much more balanced.I paid a hole 24 bucks for mine.


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## ClintSearl

Stilleto titanium.


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## bandit571

For one thing, with Uncle Arthur working on my hands, I can not hold an Estwing handle. Well I could for about one good swing, and then yell "Heads up!" because it will go flying out of my hand. I also prefer WOOD handles. For a long time, I have been using a couple 24oz rip claws. Nice long WOOD handles. Not much "shock" comes out of the handles.

Try this, if you will: Go into the store, and start picking up each type of hammer they have. Use the same swing that you'll be using on the job. What you are looking for is control of the hammer. Can you control the swing? Hurt the hand, wrist, elbow, or shoulder? Does the handle FIT you hand, and is it comfortable to hold? What might work for my hand, won't work for your's. Any other questions?


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## bondogaposis

If you are going to be using it a lot, wood handles are the most comfortable. Of course they won't last as long as a solid steel handle which are indestructible but wood handles can be easily customized to your grip and of course can be easily replaced when wear out.


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## waho6o9

http://www.japanwoodworker.com/product.asp?s=JapanWoodworker&pf_id=01%2E515%2E1&dept










Has anyone used and or like this style of hammer? I think the balance of the hammer and striking capabilities
would be interesting.


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## NiteWalker

I have a couple of cheap claw hammers for grunt work and a 10 oz warrington hammer that gets the most use, though I'm not happy with the fit or finish. This will be my next one.


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## terry603

i have the estwing blue handle. i would reccommend the 20 ounce ,the 16 ounce estwing does not handle as well


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## joebloe

I agree with terry603,the Estwing with blue handle ,20 oz.is a good all around hammer.that is all i used in my framing days.I had one of the Estwing with the leather rings on the handle,it looked good ,but the rivits in the end of the handle worked loose and the leather started moving back and forth and wasn't very comfortable to use.It went back to the store and they replaced it with the blue handle hammer.I won't buy any other hammer,than Estwing.


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## jack1

Sounds like you need to have more than one. I also like a good wood handle. I have an old "Plumb" that I use sometimes.


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## Beginningwoodworker

What about curve vs stright claw?


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## mtenterprises

I have several different brands a couple Estwings both are good, a couple Stanleys, love my Plumb though. The old advertisments said they were designed to fall straight thus the name Plumb. 
 claws are useless ball peen is better, sets the nail below the surface 
MIKE


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## JAGWAH

*Beginningwoodworker~* Now your just wanting to start trouble.

There are good reasons for either, straight or curved claw. I use a straight claw hammer for most of my work. The straight claws let me dig in when I'm prying or trying to get a nail started out. As for more refined work my hammers have curved claws.


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## Beginningwoodworker

I am not trying to start trouble, I am just wondering!


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## JAGWAH

Just funnin


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## Beginningwoodworker

Ok!


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## bandit571

I would just walk into the nearest Sears store, go to the tools section, look at the hammers. Try them out. last time I broke a handle from Sears Craftsman, they gave me a new handle…Free. They also have the Estwings, and the Vaughns.

A straight claw is called a RIPPING claw because that is it's job. Not much of a nail puller, though. I used to use mine to cut the metal banding the lumber came wrapped with. One or two good swings did the trick.

A Curved Claw will give you a lot better leverage as a nail puller.


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## jack1

Sounds like it's "hammer time"!

have fun


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## JAGWAH

One should never pull out a nail levering the handle first, that will always risk breaking the handle. You should engage the nail in the claw as deeply as possible and rotate the head bending the nail side ways. This removes most of the stress, hold the wood has, on the nail alowing the advantage of the handles leverage to then pull it out. If the nail is more difficult to remove a cat's paw can be used for starters or even a specialty nail puller.

Fine Home Building Nail pulling Info


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## REK

I have a cheap 20 dollar 20 oz hammer, works great never a problem.
As for the claw….well I've never bent a nail in my life so I've never had
to use that part of the hammer.


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## JAGWAH

Ha ha ha ha, never bent a nail, you make me laugh. You must use yours for a door stop. 8)


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## a1Jim

I have used blue handled Estwing's for years in different sizes and with waffle and smooth face.


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## lwllms

I spent a lot of years swinging a hammer. The Vaughn 99 is the best hammer I ever used and I used most of them. Make sure and get a wood handle if you value your shoulder, elbow and wrist. The Vaughn is better balanced than any others I've used. I used the 20 oz. for framing and, in the hand, it's more like most 16 oz. hammers but drives with more authority than other heavier hammers. The 16 oz is the best finish hammer ever made. You do want the ripping claw for lifting or pulling material or breaking bands on bundled material. If you pull a nail with one push the hammer sideways, you get more leverage and won't damage you handle.


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## rejo55

Since I have been old enough to pick up a hammer in my Granddad's shop, my go-to hammer has always been a long wooden handled 13 oz Plumb. While we were building our landscape timber house that little feller just wouldn't cut the mustard driving those 6 inch ring-shank pole barn nails. I thought that a four pound engineer's hammer (like a small sledge) would work, but that thang got heavy real quick. I then bought a 20 ounce Vaughn and it didn't last a week until the face was slick and I bent more nails than I drove. I dumped it and got me an Estwing with the steel handle. About one day with that thing and my teeth were loose, it jarred so much. Finally I went to Sears ( who I do not like) and bought a 23 ounce California Framer (wood handled). I fell in love with the heft, balance, weight and everything about it. It drove most of the nails in our house, and Lordy, there wuz a bunch of 'em.
So there is my two cent's worth. For heavy work I don't think you can beat the Craftsman California Framer. For every-day work, the long-handled 13oz Plumb. For driving a 12 or 16d nail, grab it at the end of the handle. For lighter work, choke up on the handle.
Have a good'un
Joe


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## REK

Pretty harsh there JAGWAH, but it made me laugh!!! Okay so maybe I bent one nail…..
But I kept hammering until you couldn't see it anymore


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## mtenterprises

As you can see from rejo55's post "*I then bought a 20 ounce Vaughn and it didn't last a week until the face was slick and I bent more nails than I drove.*" I was going to mention in my previous post that hammers have to be sharpened once in a while but I figured you guys would laugh. But all you have to do is rough up the face lightly with any type of grinder or belt sander and you are good to go.
MIKE


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## ClintSearl

Check out the Stiletto Titanium.


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## Beginningwoodworker

I have a Stiletto Titanium!


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## bandit571

I THINK I have a few, just hanging around…









Got a few others, but these are for the shop.


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## Woodbum

I prefer Plumb hammers. Curved claw 16 oz wooden Plumb is my all around weapon of choice for most non framing tasks. Then up to a 22 oz straight claw wood or glass. Don't bother with the 12 oz Plumb carpenters hammer. Too light and balanced wrong. Use a Warrington on a Japanese model like shown above. I've used Estwing drywall hammers but do not like the steel shaft etc for woodwork. Still use an old Plumb roofing hammer/hatchet. We call it the "meat ax". Just smack your thumb or finger with it once and you'll know why. Just my opinions and I know I'm right…for me.


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## Woodbum

Bandit571. Did you get into my tool chest and get my Plumb framer and black taped ball pein hammer? I also had a "tinners" hammer with black tape like yours too. Your shop looks like where all my old hammers went when they moved out on me! You must not abuse them like I did. LOL


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## bandit571

I add black tape for a grip. Tinner's hammer is my go-to hammer for small nails, and even plane adjusting. #2oz ball is a Buckeye. The two frammers are both on their second handles. Concrete form work tends to be a little rough on them. The one facing out is a 16oz rip claw. MIGHT be a Plumb. It has a eight-sided handle. I do have a couple 16oz curved claws, for around the house. The handle showing in the toolbox is a Vaughn 24 oz ball pean, used to be in the toolbox of an Army 2-1/2 ton truck. One day an inspection showed there was too many hammers, so one had to disappear. I wonder where it went???


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## joebloe

That's where that $200.00 hammer went.lol


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## rcs47

BWW,

I don't know if you've pulled the trigger yet, but I wanted to pass along the advice my Dad gave me for choosing a hammer. He was using one to build custom cabinets when he opened his shop in 1947, only changing to pneumatic nailers in the '70s.

His advice, find a flat surface. Place the hammer face flat on the surface, then your fingers should just slide under the end of the hammer handle. In other words, the handle should be leaning down. It should not be out straight, parallel to the surface. If you think about driving a nail, it involves the elbow and wrist. You don't just move the hammer up and down without swinging the hammer in an arc.

You will find a lot of hammers with handles that are up. Good name hammers too. You just need to keep checking. I checked >50 Estwings before I found the one I have now.

Once you drive a nail with a handle like I describe compared to the others, you will never go back. Ever wonder why you keep bending nails?

Good luck.


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## BTK

For me, wood handle only, dampens the shock better. I favorite has been an EastwIng chosen because it just felt right.


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## MrRon

I use both; a 20oz Vaughn framer and a 16 oz Estwing rip claw. They are both made in the U.S. of A.


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## Beginningwoodworker

I really like the Estwing 16oz Curved Claw Hammer.


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## Scsmith42

CJ - I'm curious as to why you don't like your titanium hammer? I've worn out two of them, and every person that has ever worked on my farm, once they have used the titanium hammer it is the one that they will pick up first (me too).


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## Beginningwoodworker

It dont seem not enough power.


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## mark4345

doesnt have enough power? then i say you arent swinging it right. i have a stiletto 14 oz titanium framing hammer with the axe handle 3 hits and a 16d nail is in.


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## Alexandre

Beginningwoodworker, The best Bang for your buck is the Stanley Fatmax xtreme hammer…
I have one, Its comfortable, and its really good.
And, its in your budget… Maybe its not in the US, but here in canada, HD offers it with a free Cats Paw.
The adverage price for it is $29.99….
I paid $20 and with the free cats paw.


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## Infernal2

My favorite hammer has always been an old Craftsman 20oz but the particular style and design they made in this hammer, they no longer make. For everyday, around the shop, last you for bloody ever I can't say enough about a simple Estwing 16oz. However, if you do ANY framing, I'd skip the Estwing and go with the big Vaughn, preferably without a smooth face.

If you have the money however, I'll be the odd duck out and say to pick up the Dead On Steel. Its more reasonably priced than their big Framer and despite the weird look of it and the skull fetish, its an excellent hammer.


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## Josh

I would pick the plumb. I always go with the wooden handle over the metal. When I first started framing we hand pounded everything. Estwings were banned on our job sites. To much ting ting ting. Not to mention the old timers talked about the vibration and what it would do to your elbow.


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## Beginningwoodworker

I do general carpentry from framing, roofing, to trim carpentry. So a 16 oz wooden handle would be a good choice. But I use nail guns now.


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## Beginningwoodworker

Thanks guys I pick up the Vaughan 99 16 oz rip claw hammer, it has some power to drive some nails including 16 penny nails, I need to clean the finish off the hammer head.


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## Maggiepic

I've used a lot of Estwings, from 16oz. up to the 32oz. Estwings are bit harsh on the body but they last forever. I've only seen one break. The fiberglass and wood handles are the most vibration absorbing. Just don't get the yellow handle Stanleys. They snap just by looking at them.


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## Beginningwoodworker

Thats why I didn't buy the Estwings, I felt one in the store and it was heavy.


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## JoeinGa

This was my first, worked fine till I wore it out.
.









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Then I got THIS bad boy. Man, it'll drive anything you got! 
.


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## frosty50

Type of use really dictates the type of hammer you should purchase. In my shop, I probably have 6 or 7 hammers of different weights and for different use. My primary one is a 16 oz. straingh claw finish hammer. I have an 8oz claw hammer for lite brads and fine tack work. A upholsterer's tack hammer for putting in fill strips to hold glass in doors, 2 different weight framing hammers with waffle heads for rough construction (they also have different length handles), a couple of ball peen hammers of different weight and acourse, a couple of sledge hammers-different weight and lenghts. A general all purpose hammer for shop use is a good 16-22oz finish hammer, and I prefer a straight claw verse a curved one. Estwing is an outstanding hammer, and Plumb would be my next choice. A good hammer will last a life time, all of mine are at a minimum of 20 years old, some longer. Agood dead blow hammer also comes to mind for assembly work and beating pulleys of of a shaft, 2 of those of different weight. Never use a waffle face hammer for finish work, you'll destroy the piece you are working on.

I recommend you find a hammer that fits your needs, but more important, find one that you think will be comfortable in your hand. Estwings have a rubber like covering over the handle to absorb some of the shock when striking a nail. Ergomontics plays a major factor in using them to prevent injury to your elbows and arms. Swing them in the store, ask if you can beat up a piece of scrap wood or borrow one from a friend to try them out.

Hamers with wooded handles have a laquer type finish on them, on my framing hammers I put tape on them like is used on a tennis racket. stops slippage and is more comfortable to grip. Good luck on your purchase.


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## Dal300

13oz? 16oz? Geez, even my wife doesn't use anything that light, especially when beating sense into me.

I have a 22 oz Vaughan pulling claw framer, a 20oz Estwing framer, (worn out) with waffle head, 22oz Estwing waffle head framer with ripper claw, and my old favorite from my framing days… a 28oz ripper claw framer Estwing. It's still nearly new. And 35 years old. A fella I was working with gave it to me after his second day with it. At that time we were having a 'bigger peter' contest on the framing crew.
I've used it a few times, but it isn't comfortable after about 20 minutes. It does work great for land scape and railroad spikes though.
My go to hammer anymore is a purple handled 22oz Vaughan with a ripping claw and smooth face. It's nearly 30 years old and still comfortable.
Then there are the multitude of ball peen, dead blow, drill hammers, machinist hammers, miners hammers, brass hammers, brass hammers, and others too numerous to mention residing in my tool box.

For wood working though I still go to ol' Talley whacker…..


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## Beginningwoodworker

These days you use nail guns for carpentry work, so there is no need for a heavy hammer.


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## Moai

I do finish / bench work all the time, the hammer for me is a 16oz HART hammer….....all the weight in in the head, where is supposed to be.

http://www.harttools.com/


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## crank49

Titanium is a strange choice for a hammer in my honest opinion.
It's claim to fame is that it weighs half as much as steel and is equal in strength and can tolerate very high temperatures and is not likely to cause infection if it is embedded in your body because it's inert.
Excuse me, but which of those characteristics are needed for a hammer.
Also, it's very hard and expensive to manufacture and has a nasty habit of heavy rebound. That's what golfers like about it, but in a hammer it will kill your joints..
Go with the Estwing or a Vaughn. Or any of the few brands that are still made in the USA.


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## Beginningwoodworker

I bought a Vaughan 99 Rip Hammer, So I guess I've pick up a 20oz Vaughan Millied Face Rip Claw Hammer.


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## Maggiepic

Ahh.. come on Dallas. That 28 oz beat you guys…..lol That was the go to hammer weight for everyone I worked for and everyone that worked for me. One pop and the 16p's were home! I wore out the handles on a couple of those. The 32oz….oooh baby…that sucker did the job quick and dirty but you payed the price. That was not one I used to much. More for demo than anything.
Man…now that I think about it…I'm glad I no longer do framing work to that scale anymore. The 22oz-ers and 20's are my friends now.


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## Beginningwoodworker

So you guys is saying I need to pick up a heavier hammer for framing?


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## Maggiepic

Charles…This was back when framing nailers cost $600-$900. I remember paying over $800 for my first trim gun, Paslode Mustang. That was a lot in the 80's. They were a luxury. Now they are as common as a circular saw. You needed to get those nails pounded fast and furious to make the grade. Therefore a heavier hammer was faster. 
Probably not so much a concern nowadays. I still feel a waffle faced 22oz as minimum for framing work. A general all purpose, 20oz smooth face straight claw.


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## Beginningwoodworker

I will get this next http://www.toolbarn.com/vaughan-105-20.html Gary.


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## Maggiepic

I think that's a good choice for the money. Just remember with wood handled hammers…they are for pounding not for prying. You'll break it if you try to get crazy with it. I can't count how many wood handles I have seen broken.


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## Dakkar

As a young guy I worked for a time hanging siding on new mobile homes-literally driving nails all day long using a wooden handled 16 oz. hammer. After replacing handles at a rate of about 1 per week, I went to the hardware store and bought one of those solid steel Estwing hammers with the blue plastic grip. That was nearly 40 years ago and I'm still using that hammer.


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## Beginningwoodworker

16oz Dakkar?


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## Dakkar

16oz Dakkar?

Don't hold me to that. It's been a really long time.


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## devann

CJ, here are a couple more things to think about when purchasing wooden hammer handles.

Look at the grain direction at the base of the handle. I pick the ones that have the grain running from head to claw, these will be stronger.

Wooden handles can be waxed to improve grip and lessen fatigue. On a hot and sweaty day the sweat that runs down your arm ends up at your hammer handle. The synthetic handles I noticed can become slippery and hard to hold on to.

I keep a candle around to wax my hammer handle. First I scrape the handle removing most if the paint and dirt then rub with a candle. It will instantly improve your grip x 10.

I believe that wooden handles are easier on the elbows than the metal ones. Since I stopped using the metal handles I haven't needed those nasty cortisone shots for the tennis elbow that so many of us have developed from heavy hammer use.


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## TCCcabinetmaker

Hammers are really taylored for what you do. If you are framing framing hammers are really good, plumb hammers are a good middle of the road hammer for most tasks. Trim hammers are designed to drive a nail flush leaving a minimual mark on the board.

What you are showing here are two totally different types of hammers, a trim and a framing hammer. If you're doing alot of trim work go with that estwing, I have a 12 oz version and it has been my main hammer for a very long time.

If you are doing alot of framing, the second hammer is a better choice for what you do. Though the Estwing hammer will last and if it does break has a life time warranty.

The vibrations in a metal hammer can be bad for your joints long term, where as with wood hammers, you can always shatter the handles. What most people don't know though is that the leather wrapped hammers act like wood hammers because the leather absorbs the vibrations better. Thus if you can find the leather wrapped estwing version, that's imho the best way to go.

I actually have 3 of the estwing hammers, a 28 oz waffle headed framer, the 12 oz trim, and a sheetrock hatchet. They make a high quality hammer that well lasts, and when spending the money, it's usually best to buy a tool that is going to last.

A little trick though is when you buy a new hammer that isn't waffle headed, take it out to some concrete and scuff up the head of the hammer, so that when you hit a nail, it doesn't ricochet off as badly. I've seen people totally confused by my doing this. I worked for a company that had a mess of new hammers we could use whenever it was closer on hand, and well they didn't know this so I had to educate them on it.

Even with pneumatic nail guns, you will occaisionally need a hammer to set nails, drive out hinge pins and a meriad of other uses. So it's always good to own at least one.


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## TCCcabinetmaker

And then I read the original post was 218 days old…


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## Finn

I am a retired sheet metal worker so I have my old trusty tinner's hammer (Malco) and a straight claw 16oz (Malco) but my go to hammer in my wood work shop is a plastic one with a soft and hard side to the head.


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## BuckNasty

really depends on what your using it for, i dont frame much so i hope someone would slap me if i bought a hammer over 40 bux….


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## Renuraki

Ive had 3 bad experiences with Eastwing hammers. They were all stolen. A magnet for our light fingered companions. So i stopped buying an eastwing. Sure i miss the balance and sure strike but i missed the £30 i spent on esch one.
i bought a stanley fatmax 20oz flatclaw hammer 3 years ago and its still with me. Old faithful, heavy enough to any job its been asked to do, nice balance and better shock absortion and cheaper by far as it has yet to be stolen.
Regards
Joe the Joiner


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## shawnmasterson

if you go for the E-wing get a straight claw. I have the 16oz leather handle with the st claw and it is great. that being said, When I started building systems scaffold I was using a 22oz E-wing and thought I was going to need elbow surgery after 4 months. I spent the obscene amount of cash for a 15oz T-bone from stiletto and have never looked back. I swear by it, the side puller works amazing, and the balance is perfect. if you are swinging it every day-all day it is gold. I have never met any one who has one and regrets it. They also come in wood and poly handles. I will never buy another brand of hammer again. I am a lifer.

http://www.google.com/shopping/product/5696700602297095516?q=stiletto%20tibone%20hammer&hl=en&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.&bvm=bv.43148975,d.aWc&biw=777&bih=394&sa=X&ei=IoYzUaGkGOqmyQHQwYGYAg&ved=0CIQBEPMCMAg


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## Beginningwoodworker

I never really like Estwing Hammers, I Pefer the Vaughan hammers.


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