# Building a wooden shoulder plane



## woodspark (May 8, 2010)

*First you gotta do some thinking...and find iron*

During the recent posting by Bertha on the hand planes of our dreams, the issue of wooden shoulder planes came up. I had some requests and PM's to blog on the making of a wooden shoulder plane so I will give it my best shot. Be warned, I work in the metric system so measurements are in millimeters. For those who use King George's thumb to measure, dividing by 25.4 will at least give decimal inches. I'll gladly answer any question but have patience: No computer will survive in my dusty workshop and I spend all my days there. It means that my computer habits are such that I only sit in front of this screen at night. Throw in the time difference and my response times get pretty slow, about once every 24 hours…..but respond I will. Promise.

Just so you know where we are going, this is what we want to end up with:










As you can see, this is not a very big plane, only around 115 mm (4,5") long. I've been into building smaller and smaller planes lately…

*Some planning and scavenging for a plane iron.*

The first thing to do is to decide on the width of the plane, or maybe the width of the plane iron will decide for us…. Since the width of the plane iron or blade will determine the width of the wooden plane body, we need to find ourselves an iron first. There are various ways to do this. If you live in the States, it can be as simple as buying the one that you want. If you don't have much money or you live in Africa like me, that option does not exist and you need to get creative. There are a few ways to skin the cat.

1. Find an old plane iron and cut out of it what you want. If you choose to go this route, use an angle grinder fitted with a slim cutting disc. Keep the iron as cool as possible whilst cutting; do it in steps and submerge the blade often in cold water to prevent it from heating up. Too much heat will alter the properties of the steel.

2. Use an old spade drill bit. Since the round shaft needs to be flat and the same thickness as the spade part, this method requires a lot of grinding. Again, keep the steel as cool as possible during the grinding process.

3. Use old HSS jointer or planer knifes. I've been going this route lately with much success. A big advantage with HSS is that it can be cut and ground without concern over altering the materials properties due to excessive heat. Even if it becomes red hot, no worries! Some will say that it is too hard for a plane blade and in a way they are right. You won't be able to hone an extremely fine edge like you can with good tool steel. But believe me, for what we want to do it is good enough. More benefits of the HSS are that it will stay sharp for much longer and the stuff is nice and thick, typically 3mm. Thick is good!
A disadvantage of using old jointer knifes is that they are never very wide; we are after all talking about worn out cutters. I've been making lots of small planes of late so it not a problem for me. If you don't have worn out knifes in your shop, ask at a sharpening service or a large commercial woodworking shop.

*The plane body - what wood to use.*
Although Beech was traditionally much used for planes, any good hardwood will do just fine. I've used Maple, Paduak, Wenge, Purpleheart and some of our indigenous woods like Ironwood, Pink Ivory and Candlewood. It is best, but not critical, to have the growth rings running vertical in your plane body. This makes for a better wearing plane. You can even get fancy and add a sole of different wood, or something exotic and hardwearing like ebony or ivory. Yes, I know there is a moral issue with ivory and it's impossible to find. Or not? Old pianos had real ivory on their keys. Keep your eyes open for a scrapped piano! I have some ivory pieces obtained that way.You can also use bone but that is a story for another time…

I leave you to go hunting for some metal and some timber….next we get down to building this thing!


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

woodspark said:


> *First you gotta do some thinking...and find iron*
> 
> During the recent posting by Bertha on the hand planes of our dreams, the issue of wooden shoulder planes came up. I had some requests and PM's to blog on the making of a wooden shoulder plane so I will give it my best shot. Be warned, I work in the metric system so measurements are in millimeters. For those who use King George's thumb to measure, dividing by 25.4 will at least give decimal inches. I'll gladly answer any question but have patience: No computer will survive in my dusty workshop and I spend all my days there. It means that my computer habits are such that I only sit in front of this screen at night. Throw in the time difference and my response times get pretty slow, about once every 24 hours…..but respond I will. Promise.
> 
> ...


Subscribed! I'm ordering an iron now.


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

woodspark said:


> *First you gotta do some thinking...and find iron*
> 
> During the recent posting by Bertha on the hand planes of our dreams, the issue of wooden shoulder planes came up. I had some requests and PM's to blog on the making of a wooden shoulder plane so I will give it my best shot. Be warned, I work in the metric system so measurements are in millimeters. For those who use King George's thumb to measure, dividing by 25.4 will at least give decimal inches. I'll gladly answer any question but have patience: No computer will survive in my dusty workshop and I spend all my days there. It means that my computer habits are such that I only sit in front of this screen at night. Throw in the time difference and my response times get pretty slow, about once every 24 hours…..but respond I will. Promise.
> 
> ...


great blog Div
looking forward to the toturials on this beautyfull plane 

take care
Dennis


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## DaddyZ (Jan 28, 2010)

woodspark said:


> *First you gotta do some thinking...and find iron*
> 
> During the recent posting by Bertha on the hand planes of our dreams, the issue of wooden shoulder planes came up. I had some requests and PM's to blog on the making of a wooden shoulder plane so I will give it my best shot. Be warned, I work in the metric system so measurements are in millimeters. For those who use King George's thumb to measure, dividing by 25.4 will at least give decimal inches. I'll gladly answer any question but have patience: No computer will survive in my dusty workshop and I spend all my days there. It means that my computer habits are such that I only sit in front of this screen at night. Throw in the time difference and my response times get pretty slow, about once every 24 hours…..but respond I will. Promise.
> 
> ...


Excellent !!!


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## derosa (Aug 21, 2010)

woodspark said:


> *First you gotta do some thinking...and find iron*
> 
> During the recent posting by Bertha on the hand planes of our dreams, the issue of wooden shoulder planes came up. I had some requests and PM's to blog on the making of a wooden shoulder plane so I will give it my best shot. Be warned, I work in the metric system so measurements are in millimeters. For those who use King George's thumb to measure, dividing by 25.4 will at least give decimal inches. I'll gladly answer any question but have patience: No computer will survive in my dusty workshop and I spend all my days there. It means that my computer habits are such that I only sit in front of this screen at night. Throw in the time difference and my response times get pretty slow, about once every 24 hours…..but respond I will. Promise.
> 
> ...


I'm also watching and following this, just found some old plane blades at the local junk store that'll supply what I need and the dremel with a cutting wheel should provide the shape.


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

woodspark said:


> *First you gotta do some thinking...and find iron*
> 
> During the recent posting by Bertha on the hand planes of our dreams, the issue of wooden shoulder planes came up. I had some requests and PM's to blog on the making of a wooden shoulder plane so I will give it my best shot. Be warned, I work in the metric system so measurements are in millimeters. For those who use King George's thumb to measure, dividing by 25.4 will at least give decimal inches. I'll gladly answer any question but have patience: No computer will survive in my dusty workshop and I spend all my days there. It means that my computer habits are such that I only sit in front of this screen at night. Throw in the time difference and my response times get pretty slow, about once every 24 hours…..but respond I will. Promise.
> 
> ...


Its a thing of beauty Div. I'll be watching closely.


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## woodspark (May 8, 2010)

woodspark said:


> *First you gotta do some thinking...and find iron*
> 
> During the recent posting by Bertha on the hand planes of our dreams, the issue of wooden shoulder planes came up. I had some requests and PM's to blog on the making of a wooden shoulder plane so I will give it my best shot. Be warned, I work in the metric system so measurements are in millimeters. For those who use King George's thumb to measure, dividing by 25.4 will at least give decimal inches. I'll gladly answer any question but have patience: No computer will survive in my dusty workshop and I spend all my days there. It means that my computer habits are such that I only sit in front of this screen at night. Throw in the time difference and my response times get pretty slow, about once every 24 hours…..but respond I will. Promise.
> 
> ...


Very good, very good, I have some customers! ;^) See ya all tomorrow with the next installment. Midnight here now, I'm off to do some snoring…...ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ


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## grittyroots (Jan 13, 2011)

woodspark said:


> *First you gotta do some thinking...and find iron*
> 
> During the recent posting by Bertha on the hand planes of our dreams, the issue of wooden shoulder planes came up. I had some requests and PM's to blog on the making of a wooden shoulder plane so I will give it my best shot. Be warned, I work in the metric system so measurements are in millimeters. For those who use King George's thumb to measure, dividing by 25.4 will at least give decimal inches. I'll gladly answer any question but have patience: No computer will survive in my dusty workshop and I spend all my days there. It means that my computer habits are such that I only sit in front of this screen at night. Throw in the time difference and my response times get pretty slow, about once every 24 hours…..but respond I will. Promise.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the info. i'm interested in how this continues. i picked up a bunch of old wooden molding planes and i'm pretty sure these irons will work well for a project like this.


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## docholladay (Jan 9, 2010)

woodspark said:


> *First you gotta do some thinking...and find iron*
> 
> During the recent posting by Bertha on the hand planes of our dreams, the issue of wooden shoulder planes came up. I had some requests and PM's to blog on the making of a wooden shoulder plane so I will give it my best shot. Be warned, I work in the metric system so measurements are in millimeters. For those who use King George's thumb to measure, dividing by 25.4 will at least give decimal inches. I'll gladly answer any question but have patience: No computer will survive in my dusty workshop and I spend all my days there. It means that my computer habits are such that I only sit in front of this screen at night. Throw in the time difference and my response times get pretty slow, about once every 24 hours…..but respond I will. Promise.
> 
> ...


Very good Div. I shall be following along.

Thanks,

Doc


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## Bearpie (Feb 19, 2010)

woodspark said:


> *First you gotta do some thinking...and find iron*
> 
> During the recent posting by Bertha on the hand planes of our dreams, the issue of wooden shoulder planes came up. I had some requests and PM's to blog on the making of a wooden shoulder plane so I will give it my best shot. Be warned, I work in the metric system so measurements are in millimeters. For those who use King George's thumb to measure, dividing by 25.4 will at least give decimal inches. I'll gladly answer any question but have patience: No computer will survive in my dusty workshop and I spend all my days there. It means that my computer habits are such that I only sit in front of this screen at night. Throw in the time difference and my response times get pretty slow, about once every 24 hours…..but respond I will. Promise.
> 
> ...


I have a few old worn out metal cutting saw blades about 1/8" thick by 2" wide and 18" long. I used that to make my home made knife blades, would that work?

Erwin, Jacksonville, FL


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## BigTiny (Jun 29, 2010)

woodspark said:


> *First you gotta do some thinking...and find iron*
> 
> During the recent posting by Bertha on the hand planes of our dreams, the issue of wooden shoulder planes came up. I had some requests and PM's to blog on the making of a wooden shoulder plane so I will give it my best shot. Be warned, I work in the metric system so measurements are in millimeters. For those who use King George's thumb to measure, dividing by 25.4 will at least give decimal inches. I'll gladly answer any question but have patience: No computer will survive in my dusty workshop and I spend all my days there. It means that my computer habits are such that I only sit in front of this screen at night. Throw in the time difference and my response times get pretty slow, about once every 24 hours…..but respond I will. Promise.
> 
> ...


Another source of decent steel is old auto leaf springs. You can often get them really cheap from a spring shop if you take their broken leaves. They're only scrap metal to them so you can get them for scrap prices and they give you good solid steel that's nice and thick (2 to 6 mm/1/8 to 1/4 inch) and a decent width too. Anything from 35 to 50 mm or 1 1/2 to 2 inches or more.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

woodspark said:


> *First you gotta do some thinking...and find iron*
> 
> During the recent posting by Bertha on the hand planes of our dreams, the issue of wooden shoulder planes came up. I had some requests and PM's to blog on the making of a wooden shoulder plane so I will give it my best shot. Be warned, I work in the metric system so measurements are in millimeters. For those who use King George's thumb to measure, dividing by 25.4 will at least give decimal inches. I'll gladly answer any question but have patience: No computer will survive in my dusty workshop and I spend all my days there. It means that my computer habits are such that I only sit in front of this screen at night. Throw in the time difference and my response times get pretty slow, about once every 24 hours…..but respond I will. Promise.
> 
> ...


Looks great Div.


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## Schwieb (Dec 3, 2008)

woodspark said:


> *First you gotta do some thinking...and find iron*
> 
> During the recent posting by Bertha on the hand planes of our dreams, the issue of wooden shoulder planes came up. I had some requests and PM's to blog on the making of a wooden shoulder plane so I will give it my best shot. Be warned, I work in the metric system so measurements are in millimeters. For those who use King George's thumb to measure, dividing by 25.4 will at least give decimal inches. I'll gladly answer any question but have patience: No computer will survive in my dusty workshop and I spend all my days there. It means that my computer habits are such that I only sit in front of this screen at night. Throw in the time difference and my response times get pretty slow, about once every 24 hours…..but respond I will. Promise.
> 
> ...


Hi Div,
I'm a customer too. I will scrounge around for something to use for an iron today.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

woodspark said:


> *First you gotta do some thinking...and find iron*
> 
> During the recent posting by Bertha on the hand planes of our dreams, the issue of wooden shoulder planes came up. I had some requests and PM's to blog on the making of a wooden shoulder plane so I will give it my best shot. Be warned, I work in the metric system so measurements are in millimeters. For those who use King George's thumb to measure, dividing by 25.4 will at least give decimal inches. I'll gladly answer any question but have patience: No computer will survive in my dusty workshop and I spend all my days there. It means that my computer habits are such that I only sit in front of this screen at night. Throw in the time difference and my response times get pretty slow, about once every 24 hours…..but respond I will. Promise.
> 
> ...


Looking good.
It should be a masterclass Debbie!
I have the first parts ready.
See you Jack.
Best thoughts brother,
Mads


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

woodspark said:


> *First you gotta do some thinking...and find iron*
> 
> During the recent posting by Bertha on the hand planes of our dreams, the issue of wooden shoulder planes came up. I had some requests and PM's to blog on the making of a wooden shoulder plane so I will give it my best shot. Be warned, I work in the metric system so measurements are in millimeters. For those who use King George's thumb to measure, dividing by 25.4 will at least give decimal inches. I'll gladly answer any question but have patience: No computer will survive in my dusty workshop and I spend all my days there. It means that my computer habits are such that I only sit in front of this screen at night. Throw in the time difference and my response times get pretty slow, about once every 24 hours…..but respond I will. Promise.
> 
> ...


What a lovely shave in the picture thank you.


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## bigike (May 25, 2009)

woodspark said:


> *First you gotta do some thinking...and find iron*
> 
> During the recent posting by Bertha on the hand planes of our dreams, the issue of wooden shoulder planes came up. I had some requests and PM's to blog on the making of a wooden shoulder plane so I will give it my best shot. Be warned, I work in the metric system so measurements are in millimeters. For those who use King George's thumb to measure, dividing by 25.4 will at least give decimal inches. I'll gladly answer any question but have patience: No computer will survive in my dusty workshop and I spend all my days there. It means that my computer habits are such that I only sit in front of this screen at night. Throw in the time difference and my response times get pretty slow, about once every 24 hours…..but respond I will. Promise.
> 
> ...


nice I wanna see how this plays out!


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## grittyroots (Jan 13, 2011)

woodspark said:


> *First you gotta do some thinking...and find iron*
> 
> During the recent posting by Bertha on the hand planes of our dreams, the issue of wooden shoulder planes came up. I had some requests and PM's to blog on the making of a wooden shoulder plane so I will give it my best shot. Be warned, I work in the metric system so measurements are in millimeters. For those who use King George's thumb to measure, dividing by 25.4 will at least give decimal inches. I'll gladly answer any question but have patience: No computer will survive in my dusty workshop and I spend all my days there. It means that my computer habits are such that I only sit in front of this screen at night. Throw in the time difference and my response times get pretty slow, about once every 24 hours…..but respond I will. Promise.
> 
> ...


i second Mafe's master class recomendation


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

woodspark said:


> *First you gotta do some thinking...and find iron*
> 
> During the recent posting by Bertha on the hand planes of our dreams, the issue of wooden shoulder planes came up. I had some requests and PM's to blog on the making of a wooden shoulder plane so I will give it my best shot. Be warned, I work in the metric system so measurements are in millimeters. For those who use King George's thumb to measure, dividing by 25.4 will at least give decimal inches. I'll gladly answer any question but have patience: No computer will survive in my dusty workshop and I spend all my days there. It means that my computer habits are such that I only sit in front of this screen at night. Throw in the time difference and my response times get pretty slow, about once every 24 hours…..but respond I will. Promise.
> 
> ...


I purchased a thin metal disc last night in case my Hock doesn't arrive in time. I'll attempt to cut an old iron tonight as a backup. I'm considering using a piece of maple purchased from our own LJ Stockmaker!


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

woodspark said:


> *First you gotta do some thinking...and find iron*
> 
> During the recent posting by Bertha on the hand planes of our dreams, the issue of wooden shoulder planes came up. I had some requests and PM's to blog on the making of a wooden shoulder plane so I will give it my best shot. Be warned, I work in the metric system so measurements are in millimeters. For those who use King George's thumb to measure, dividing by 25.4 will at least give decimal inches. I'll gladly answer any question but have patience: No computer will survive in my dusty workshop and I spend all my days there. It means that my computer habits are such that I only sit in front of this screen at night. Throw in the time difference and my response times get pretty slow, about once every 24 hours…..but respond I will. Promise.
> 
> ...


i got these old beat up chisels
one is about 1/2" 
the other 3/4" 
(i found them this way)









they should work ok ?
how do i know
regular from
HSS

for when i go to grind them


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## woodspark (May 8, 2010)

woodspark said:


> *First you gotta do some thinking...and find iron*
> 
> During the recent posting by Bertha on the hand planes of our dreams, the issue of wooden shoulder planes came up. I had some requests and PM's to blog on the making of a wooden shoulder plane so I will give it my best shot. Be warned, I work in the metric system so measurements are in millimeters. For those who use King George's thumb to measure, dividing by 25.4 will at least give decimal inches. I'll gladly answer any question but have patience: No computer will survive in my dusty workshop and I spend all my days there. It means that my computer habits are such that I only sit in front of this screen at night. Throw in the time difference and my response times get pretty slow, about once every 24 hours…..but respond I will. Promise.
> 
> ...


Patron: David, I would think those chisels were made from some fine steel. They will work well if you can *prevent heat from building up during the cutting process*. If they get too hot, the steel will soften and then it gets beyond me. I'm no expert on metallurgy! Think words like annealing, tempering, heating to very specific temperatures, cooling in specific ways etc. Easier to just cut them REAL slow, cooling as often as possible with water to prevent heat build up.

HSS is shiny stuff, doesn't rust too easy, planer knifes, jointer knifes, turning tools on metal lathes etc. Never used for making chisels or the like. HSS is hard, doesn't throw much spark when grinding. Carbon steel makes a lot more spark.

Bottom line, your chisels are not HSS!


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

woodspark said:


> *First you gotta do some thinking...and find iron*
> 
> During the recent posting by Bertha on the hand planes of our dreams, the issue of wooden shoulder planes came up. I had some requests and PM's to blog on the making of a wooden shoulder plane so I will give it my best shot. Be warned, I work in the metric system so measurements are in millimeters. For those who use King George's thumb to measure, dividing by 25.4 will at least give decimal inches. I'll gladly answer any question but have patience: No computer will survive in my dusty workshop and I spend all my days there. It means that my computer habits are such that I only sit in front of this screen at night. Throw in the time difference and my response times get pretty slow, about once every 24 hours…..but respond I will. Promise.
> 
> ...


thanks for the info
these are definitely rusty

so slow it is

thanks


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

woodspark said:


> *First you gotta do some thinking...and find iron*
> 
> During the recent posting by Bertha on the hand planes of our dreams, the issue of wooden shoulder planes came up. I had some requests and PM's to blog on the making of a wooden shoulder plane so I will give it my best shot. Be warned, I work in the metric system so measurements are in millimeters. For those who use King George's thumb to measure, dividing by 25.4 will at least give decimal inches. I'll gladly answer any question but have patience: No computer will survive in my dusty workshop and I spend all my days there. It means that my computer habits are such that I only sit in front of this screen at night. Throw in the time difference and my response times get pretty slow, about once every 24 hours…..but respond I will. Promise.
> 
> ...


I've chosen an old Stanley blade.










I'm going with Stockmaker's maple (Swan drawknife eye candy for Mads, Dennis, and Div)


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## woodspark (May 8, 2010)

woodspark said:


> *First you gotta do some thinking...and find iron*
> 
> During the recent posting by Bertha on the hand planes of our dreams, the issue of wooden shoulder planes came up. I had some requests and PM's to blog on the making of a wooden shoulder plane so I will give it my best shot. Be warned, I work in the metric system so measurements are in millimeters. For those who use King George's thumb to measure, dividing by 25.4 will at least give decimal inches. I'll gladly answer any question but have patience: No computer will survive in my dusty workshop and I spend all my days there. It means that my computer habits are such that I only sit in front of this screen at night. Throw in the time difference and my response times get pretty slow, about once every 24 hours…..but respond I will. Promise.
> 
> ...


That Stanley blade will do the trick Bertha. Just don't let it heat up when cutting!

Nice wood for the job! (besides tempting us with some fine tools…casually sneaked into the picture!)


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## Cher (Dec 6, 2009)

woodspark said:


> *First you gotta do some thinking...and find iron*
> 
> During the recent posting by Bertha on the hand planes of our dreams, the issue of wooden shoulder planes came up. I had some requests and PM's to blog on the making of a wooden shoulder plane so I will give it my best shot. Be warned, I work in the metric system so measurements are in millimeters. For those who use King George's thumb to measure, dividing by 25.4 will at least give decimal inches. I'll gladly answer any question but have patience: No computer will survive in my dusty workshop and I spend all my days there. It means that my computer habits are such that I only sit in front of this screen at night. Throw in the time difference and my response times get pretty slow, about once every 24 hours…..but respond I will. Promise.
> 
> ...


Hi Div, I will just observe for the moment. When I can actually master using a plane perhaps then I will attempt to make one.

Thanks for sharing your knowledge Div.


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## woodspark (May 8, 2010)

*About body parts and even a mouth...*

24 hours later and I'm back in my favorite chair! It sounds like some has already sourced plane irons in many different ways. Good! Bertha is ordering a brandnew blade, Derosa found some old plane blades at a local junk store and his Dremel with cutting disc is eager to go! Grittyroots has some old molding planes and wants to use an iron from on of those. Bearpie in Jacksonville has some old worn out metal cutting saw blades about 1/8" thick by 2" wide and 18" long. Good idea, Bearpie! Correct me if I'm wrong but I think those are also made from HSS. It will do the trick just fine in my opinion. I spent a few months in Jacksonville once during my sailing days. There was this one girl….Sorry, I'm getting off track here….

To remind us where we are going:










*The plane body - making it.*
The basic process involves first cutting the shape of your plane from some timber, then cutting the plane body lengthways into 3 pieces on the bandsaw. This allows us to work on the middle part where the tang of the blade will be before gluing the whole lot back together again. Bear with me, it will get clear soon! Doing it this way makes life easier. It can be done with a solid piece of wood but that involves cutting a rather small mortise at an angle through your block of wood. A tricky operation….I know because I did it on this Coach makers Rabbetplane:










Let's go the easy route first. We can get to the solid body type later if you want…

OK, I found a piece of HSS steel that will do the trick for me. My blade will be 15mm wide when done. That is a little under 5/8" if you speak American. Yes, it is narrow, but I want to make a tiny plane!










The finished width of the plane body needs to be a little less than the width of the blade. For now, let's say it needs to be the same, thus 15 mm. Because I will be cutting it into 3 pieces on my band saw, I add twice the bandsaw kerf width which is 1,5mm in my case. Therefore 2×1,5mm = 3mm. Let's make it 4mm to allow for sanding. Thus I thickness my timber to 15 + 4 = 19 mm. Whilst I'm at the machines, I also joint the edges square.

Draw the shape of your plane on that nice, freshly dimensioned piece of timber. Any shape that pleases you, fancy or simple, will work. You might want to think about ergonomics if you want this fellow to sit nicely in your hand. About the only important thing is that the length of the sole in front of the blade should be less than the length behind it. Take a look at any other Western style plane to get a sense of the proportion. Oh, and I guess you do want your blade to come out the top, so check your shape against the length of your planned plane iron!










Referring to the photo above, mark a 45 degree line to show where the bottom of the blade will sit. This is a good time to talk a little about that angle since it will determine the characteristics and use of your plane.

What are the advantages of the different set angles? 
• 45º - Great for planing softwoods and North American hardwoods such as maple and walnut and such. It can handle figured maple well, but will have problems with figured cherry and walnut. This angle is the easiest to push/pull. 
• 47° - A good compromise between good tear-out performance and effortless use. 
• 50º - Great for North American hardwoods with some to lots of figure. It can handle pine, if needed, and can take on straight grained tropicals, too. This plane takes more effort than the 45 but is not hard to pull/push. 
• 55º - For highly-figured American hardwoods and figured tropicals. This plane takes more effort to push/pull than the others, but easily gives good results on figured woods. 
• 60º - For extremely hard-to-work woods and for use as a scraper plane. It takes the most effort to use this plane. 
If you want to use your shoulder plane mostly for cross grain work, such as cleaning up tenons, you might even want to lower that angle some.

Back to the photo above. The leftmost line represents the bottom of your blade. Using the actual blade as a marking/measuring tool, draw the next line showing the top of the blade. The distance between these two lines represents the thickness of the blade. Then, mark out for the wedge. The red line in the photo represents the top edge of the wedge.

THIS IS IMPORTANT. Note that I start this line from the point where the upper blade line meets the sole. I'm not allowing anything for the mouth opening at this stage! That will come later.
The cross hatched area in the photo shows where the wedge will eventually be. Don't ask me what the angle for that wedge is, I just eyeball it! If you really want a number, I guess something like a 1 to 8 rise will do. Using a little tri-square, transfer the lines onto the sole and top of the body.

Next, drill the large diameter 19mm hole as in the picture. It is important to line the edge of the hole with the line representing the bottom of the blade. If you are clever, drill the hole first, then draw your lines! Easier that way! The distance between the bottom edge of the hole and the sole is around 10 mm in this case. If you are building a bigger plane, the hole and the bottom distance can be larger.

I use brass brazing rod to make pins to index and hold all the parts together. In my case the brazing rod's diameter was 2mm, so I drill the 4 small 2mm holes. 1/8" brazing rod will work well for bigger planes, even 3/16" if you want.

Right, to the band saw to cut the thing into 3 pieces. Wait, first a little thinking again! My tagline doesn't say for nothing: "A woodworker's sharpest tool should be his mind!" It is hard but I try… The middle section need to be the same width as the tang of the blade. If you buy a finished blade it means you have to dimension the thickness of the centre piece to the width of the tang on your blade. It actually needs to be a little more to allow for some lateral adjustment of your plane iron. Since I haven't made the blade yet, it can be whatever I like and I can cut the blade to suit. I decided to make the cheeks about 3mm thick in my case. So the middle piece will eventually be around 15 - (2×3) = 9mm. More or less! Set the fence 3mm away from the blade, add a little cause it just looks so narrow (!?) and clamp down.










Cut a cheek off each side. As you can see my blade was not too sharp. That frigging Purpleheart burns so easily!










My cuts were not too wonderful, so I decided to sand away the band saw marks on a flat sanding block. If you have a sharp and decent bandsaw blade this is probably not necessary. With the crappy blade I used, I got a little wander. I wish I could buy decent bandsaw blades in this joint. You guys are spoiled for choice! Oh, and a bad craftsman always blames his tools……










2 thin cheeks and one thicker middle piece ready to go! By picking up the marks on the sole and top, reestablish the blade and wedge lines on the centre piece.










Dry fitted my 3 pieces back together again just to check that my sanded surfaces fit well…










…Then cut that middle part into pieces! Carefully cut to the inside of the lines on the band saw or with handsaw if you want. If you look closely you will see that I left the lines just visible. I sand/plane the landing straight and square to the side. Save that middle piece! Later on this will give you the shape of the wedge to be made.










Testing the landing with the blade to be to check that it is nice and flat and square. You will notice that I didn't leave any gap between the body and the blade where the mouth opening will be. For now we want it tight, we can always open it up a little more later.










The 2 central body pieces and the 2 cheeks temporarily assembled with my brass pins which reference all the parts nicely. You can see the opening at the top where the tang of the blade will come out. The wedge will go in there to hold the blade tightly in place.










The view from the bottom. You also see the piece of jointing knife that will become my blade. Everything looks OK, so it's time to glue the parts together. Pull the four pins, give all the glue surfaces an even coating of your favorite sticky stuff and pin together again.










Clamped together with my motley collection of 1" and 2" clamps. Rather too many than too little…

Now we have to watch the glue dry! This could be a good time to clean up the shop a little…or …an even better time to enjoy something wet whilst contemplating matters of importance. Mads can light his pipe now and I will do the same. After all, glue drying is not a process to be rushed!

We have to be well rested for tomorrow ;^) Important work awaits. The mouth of our plane needs to be finely tuned then!

If anything is not clear, give a shout and I'll respond in due time. There is nothing I can do if your mind is not clear. That something wet we talked about…?!


----------



## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

woodspark said:


> *About body parts and even a mouth...*
> 
> 24 hours later and I'm back in my favorite chair! It sounds like some has already sourced plane irons in many different ways. Good! Bertha is ordering a brandnew blade, Derosa found some old plane blades at a local junk store and his Dremel with cutting disc is eager to go! Grittyroots has some old molding planes and wants to use an iron from on of those. Bearpie in Jacksonville has some old worn out metal cutting saw blades about 1/8" thick by 2" wide and 18" long. Good idea, Bearpie! Correct me if I'm wrong but I think those are also made from HSS. It will do the trick just fine in my opinion. I spent a few months in Jacksonville once during my sailing days. There was this one girl….Sorry, I'm getting off track here….
> 
> ...


Gonna go and do me one of these…ONE DAY….


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

woodspark said:


> *About body parts and even a mouth...*
> 
> 24 hours later and I'm back in my favorite chair! It sounds like some has already sourced plane irons in many different ways. Good! Bertha is ordering a brandnew blade, Derosa found some old plane blades at a local junk store and his Dremel with cutting disc is eager to go! Grittyroots has some old molding planes and wants to use an iron from on of those. Bearpie in Jacksonville has some old worn out metal cutting saw blades about 1/8" thick by 2" wide and 18" long. Good idea, Bearpie! Correct me if I'm wrong but I think those are also made from HSS. It will do the trick just fine in my opinion. I spent a few months in Jacksonville once during my sailing days. There was this one girl….Sorry, I'm getting off track here….
> 
> ...


time to check the wood pile
i just got some stuff 
that is hard and heavy
will hold it and see how it feels

thanks for the time and teaching

have a good smoke/drink and rest


----------



## BigTiny (Jun 29, 2010)

woodspark said:


> *About body parts and even a mouth...*
> 
> 24 hours later and I'm back in my favorite chair! It sounds like some has already sourced plane irons in many different ways. Good! Bertha is ordering a brandnew blade, Derosa found some old plane blades at a local junk store and his Dremel with cutting disc is eager to go! Grittyroots has some old molding planes and wants to use an iron from on of those. Bearpie in Jacksonville has some old worn out metal cutting saw blades about 1/8" thick by 2" wide and 18" long. Good idea, Bearpie! Correct me if I'm wrong but I think those are also made from HSS. It will do the trick just fine in my opinion. I spent a few months in Jacksonville once during my sailing days. There was this one girl….Sorry, I'm getting off track here….
> 
> ...


Hi Div.

Nice, straight forward instruction method you use my friend. I like it. I also like the topic, as wooden planes hold a fascination for me and are something I want to do at least a couple of. I'm also in the process of making a marking guage too.

I like your choice of purpleheart, and I'm using it along with some maple for my guage project. I think it would improve the appearance if you'd used a light wood in the middle for contrast. Still, purpleheart looks so good on its own…

Next time I'm at the wrecker's, I'm gonna check out a broken spring or two.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

woodspark said:


> *About body parts and even a mouth...*
> 
> 24 hours later and I'm back in my favorite chair! It sounds like some has already sourced plane irons in many different ways. Good! Bertha is ordering a brandnew blade, Derosa found some old plane blades at a local junk store and his Dremel with cutting disc is eager to go! Grittyroots has some old molding planes and wants to use an iron from on of those. Bearpie in Jacksonville has some old worn out metal cutting saw blades about 1/8" thick by 2" wide and 18" long. Good idea, Bearpie! Correct me if I'm wrong but I think those are also made from HSS. It will do the trick just fine in my opinion. I spent a few months in Jacksonville once during my sailing days. There was this one girl….Sorry, I'm getting off track here….
> 
> ...


Smoke rings in the distance, I see you Div.








I'm still at the same stage, had two days of rough migrene, so nothing done.
I have ten of these block plane irons I got at at a sale for 5 dollar so I will cut one up, the wood is cut in three and I have the drawing on the body (not my own body do not worry).
Ohh yes I plan to try and make a low angel version app. 11 degrees where I turn the blade arround, that should give me 11 + a 25 degree bevel = 36 degree this should be cool for end grain yes? (I'm a bad student).
So I will catch up fast.
Thank you for taking the time.
Best thoughts,
it is wonderful to follow you here,
Mads


----------



## woodspark (May 8, 2010)

woodspark said:


> *About body parts and even a mouth...*
> 
> 24 hours later and I'm back in my favorite chair! It sounds like some has already sourced plane irons in many different ways. Good! Bertha is ordering a brandnew blade, Derosa found some old plane blades at a local junk store and his Dremel with cutting disc is eager to go! Grittyroots has some old molding planes and wants to use an iron from on of those. Bearpie in Jacksonville has some old worn out metal cutting saw blades about 1/8" thick by 2" wide and 18" long. Good idea, Bearpie! Correct me if I'm wrong but I think those are also made from HSS. It will do the trick just fine in my opinion. I spent a few months in Jacksonville once during my sailing days. There was this one girl….Sorry, I'm getting off track here….
> 
> ...


Degoose, it doesn't take long to build one of these. We mostly spend more energy thinking about things than we do actually making them!

Patron, hard and heavy is good! Are you playing along? Nice to see you here.

BigTiny, from far away Canada! Glad you are also interested. I remember you talking about spring steel a long time ago on another post. You said to look for much older models, so far no luck this side ,but then I don't go to scrap yards on a regular basis! It is in the back of my mind, still like to try it.

Mafe, I just saw your smoke rings rising above the Northen horizon! Take it easy brother, no rush. I like your low angle idea! No, not a bad student, an inquisitive, adventurous, experimental, intellegent one! I like that kind!!!

Really low angle might be problematic with wood, failure of the very small glue line near the thin end of that low landing. It happened to me once when I tried it. Maybe just had some bad luck, but I think a solid bodied version might just work better. 
Smoke signals departing now…


----------



## woodspark (May 8, 2010)

woodspark said:


> *About body parts and even a mouth...*
> 
> 24 hours later and I'm back in my favorite chair! It sounds like some has already sourced plane irons in many different ways. Good! Bertha is ordering a brandnew blade, Derosa found some old plane blades at a local junk store and his Dremel with cutting disc is eager to go! Grittyroots has some old molding planes and wants to use an iron from on of those. Bearpie in Jacksonville has some old worn out metal cutting saw blades about 1/8" thick by 2" wide and 18" long. Good idea, Bearpie! Correct me if I'm wrong but I think those are also made from HSS. It will do the trick just fine in my opinion. I spent a few months in Jacksonville once during my sailing days. There was this one girl….Sorry, I'm getting off track here….
> 
> ...


Mads, why turn the blade bevel up? If you leave it bevel down and make the ramp/landing at 36 degrees, it will give the same and make for a stronger plane. Could then even steal down to 30 degrees!


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

woodspark said:


> *About body parts and even a mouth...*
> 
> 24 hours later and I'm back in my favorite chair! It sounds like some has already sourced plane irons in many different ways. Good! Bertha is ordering a brandnew blade, Derosa found some old plane blades at a local junk store and his Dremel with cutting disc is eager to go! Grittyroots has some old molding planes and wants to use an iron from on of those. Bearpie in Jacksonville has some old worn out metal cutting saw blades about 1/8" thick by 2" wide and 18" long. Good idea, Bearpie! Correct me if I'm wrong but I think those are also made from HSS. It will do the trick just fine in my opinion. I spent a few months in Jacksonville once during my sailing days. There was this one girl….Sorry, I'm getting off track here….
> 
> ...


I'm definitely going to make some of these Div. In the words of Humphrey Bogart "Maybe not today. Maybe not tomorrow, but soon…"

You're an excellent teacher my friend.


----------



## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

woodspark said:


> *About body parts and even a mouth...*
> 
> 24 hours later and I'm back in my favorite chair! It sounds like some has already sourced plane irons in many different ways. Good! Bertha is ordering a brandnew blade, Derosa found some old plane blades at a local junk store and his Dremel with cutting disc is eager to go! Grittyroots has some old molding planes and wants to use an iron from on of those. Bearpie in Jacksonville has some old worn out metal cutting saw blades about 1/8" thick by 2" wide and 18" long. Good idea, Bearpie! Correct me if I'm wrong but I think those are also made from HSS. It will do the trick just fine in my opinion. I spent a few months in Jacksonville once during my sailing days. There was this one girl….Sorry, I'm getting off track here….
> 
> ...


Hey Div, this is so cool. I remember when you first posted your coach maker's rabbet plane. I was blown away. So I will attempt to follow along and someday do one of these. It looks like a lot of fun.

I have never used planes very much, as I was always a power tool guy. But I should learn, and building one seems like a good transition from power to hand.

Thanks,
Steve


----------



## Bearpie (Feb 19, 2010)

woodspark said:


> *About body parts and even a mouth...*
> 
> 24 hours later and I'm back in my favorite chair! It sounds like some has already sourced plane irons in many different ways. Good! Bertha is ordering a brandnew blade, Derosa found some old plane blades at a local junk store and his Dremel with cutting disc is eager to go! Grittyroots has some old molding planes and wants to use an iron from on of those. Bearpie in Jacksonville has some old worn out metal cutting saw blades about 1/8" thick by 2" wide and 18" long. Good idea, Bearpie! Correct me if I'm wrong but I think those are also made from HSS. It will do the trick just fine in my opinion. I spent a few months in Jacksonville once during my sailing days. There was this one girl….Sorry, I'm getting off track here….
> 
> ...


I have not been able to work in my workshop as it is a mess right now because I am in the middle of super sizing it. I am going from a 12' x 20' to a 24' x 20' doubling the size! I'm excited because it means I'll have more working space. It is supposed to be finished next week then I get all the fun of finishing the interior, insulating, wiring, putting down solid vinyl tiles, making shelves, painting…..you get the picture! Hopefully I will be able to do it within a month, at least that's my goal for now.

I will be making one when I get caught up and thanks Div for the excellent instructions!

Erwin, Jacksonville, FL


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

woodspark said:


> *About body parts and even a mouth...*
> 
> 24 hours later and I'm back in my favorite chair! It sounds like some has already sourced plane irons in many different ways. Good! Bertha is ordering a brandnew blade, Derosa found some old plane blades at a local junk store and his Dremel with cutting disc is eager to go! Grittyroots has some old molding planes and wants to use an iron from on of those. Bearpie in Jacksonville has some old worn out metal cutting saw blades about 1/8" thick by 2" wide and 18" long. Good idea, Bearpie! Correct me if I'm wrong but I think those are also made from HSS. It will do the trick just fine in my opinion. I spent a few months in Jacksonville once during my sailing days. There was this one girl….Sorry, I'm getting off track here….
> 
> ...


great blog Div 
thank´s for taking the time to do it

take care
Dennis


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

woodspark said:


> *About body parts and even a mouth...*
> 
> 24 hours later and I'm back in my favorite chair! It sounds like some has already sourced plane irons in many different ways. Good! Bertha is ordering a brandnew blade, Derosa found some old plane blades at a local junk store and his Dremel with cutting disc is eager to go! Grittyroots has some old molding planes and wants to use an iron from on of those. Bearpie in Jacksonville has some old worn out metal cutting saw blades about 1/8" thick by 2" wide and 18" long. Good idea, Bearpie! Correct me if I'm wrong but I think those are also made from HSS. It will do the trick just fine in my opinion. I spent a few months in Jacksonville once during my sailing days. There was this one girl….Sorry, I'm getting off track here….
> 
> ...


The construction looks very straight forward Div, however, I will probably be using a spade bit for mine. It seems to me that the mouth would have to be more narrow in the part where the shaft will be to prevent sideways movement. I sure would appreciate hearing your solution to this problem if you have one.


----------



## woodspark (May 8, 2010)

woodspark said:


> *About body parts and even a mouth...*
> 
> 24 hours later and I'm back in my favorite chair! It sounds like some has already sourced plane irons in many different ways. Good! Bertha is ordering a brandnew blade, Derosa found some old plane blades at a local junk store and his Dremel with cutting disc is eager to go! Grittyroots has some old molding planes and wants to use an iron from on of those. Bearpie in Jacksonville has some old worn out metal cutting saw blades about 1/8" thick by 2" wide and 18" long. Good idea, Bearpie! Correct me if I'm wrong but I think those are also made from HSS. It will do the trick just fine in my opinion. I spent a few months in Jacksonville once during my sailing days. There was this one girl….Sorry, I'm getting off track here….
> 
> ...


Brit, please do. It is not that hard, real fun and it works!

Bearpie, good luck with the upgrade. Let us know when you get down to it!

Dennis, no problem.

Stefang, the middle block of your plane needs to be just a bit wider than the shaft of your spade bit. Some sideways movement is good to allow for adjusting the blade. If the cutting edge of your blade is not exactly square, sideways movement will take care of that. It also allows for centering the blade exeactly.
Once the wedge is in tight, the blade won't go anywhere. Does that make sense to you? The photos in the next installment will clarify a lot!


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

woodspark said:


> *About body parts and even a mouth...*
> 
> 24 hours later and I'm back in my favorite chair! It sounds like some has already sourced plane irons in many different ways. Good! Bertha is ordering a brandnew blade, Derosa found some old plane blades at a local junk store and his Dremel with cutting disc is eager to go! Grittyroots has some old molding planes and wants to use an iron from on of those. Bearpie in Jacksonville has some old worn out metal cutting saw blades about 1/8" thick by 2" wide and 18" long. Good idea, Bearpie! Correct me if I'm wrong but I think those are also made from HSS. It will do the trick just fine in my opinion. I spent a few months in Jacksonville once during my sailing days. There was this one girl….Sorry, I'm getting off track here….
> 
> ...


got some katalox
almost like ebony
hard and heavy
think i'll use rosewood
got lot's of it
5/4" in the rough
and hard maple too


----------



## woodspark (May 8, 2010)

woodspark said:


> *About body parts and even a mouth...*
> 
> 24 hours later and I'm back in my favorite chair! It sounds like some has already sourced plane irons in many different ways. Good! Bertha is ordering a brandnew blade, Derosa found some old plane blades at a local junk store and his Dremel with cutting disc is eager to go! Grittyroots has some old molding planes and wants to use an iron from on of those. Bearpie in Jacksonville has some old worn out metal cutting saw blades about 1/8" thick by 2" wide and 18" long. Good idea, Bearpie! Correct me if I'm wrong but I think those are also made from HSS. It will do the trick just fine in my opinion. I spent a few months in Jacksonville once during my sailing days. There was this one girl….Sorry, I'm getting off track here….
> 
> ...


never heard of katalox? Rosewood will be beautiful, you know what kind? That stuff real expensive down here. We have African Rosewood but it is not a real rosewood.


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

woodspark said:


> *About body parts and even a mouth...*
> 
> 24 hours later and I'm back in my favorite chair! It sounds like some has already sourced plane irons in many different ways. Good! Bertha is ordering a brandnew blade, Derosa found some old plane blades at a local junk store and his Dremel with cutting disc is eager to go! Grittyroots has some old molding planes and wants to use an iron from on of those. Bearpie in Jacksonville has some old worn out metal cutting saw blades about 1/8" thick by 2" wide and 18" long. Good idea, Bearpie! Correct me if I'm wrong but I think those are also made from HSS. It will do the trick just fine in my opinion. I spent a few months in Jacksonville once during my sailing days. There was this one girl….Sorry, I'm getting off track here….
> 
> ...


this rosewood from indonesia
here is some


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

woodspark said:


> *About body parts and even a mouth...*
> 
> 24 hours later and I'm back in my favorite chair! It sounds like some has already sourced plane irons in many different ways. Good! Bertha is ordering a brandnew blade, Derosa found some old plane blades at a local junk store and his Dremel with cutting disc is eager to go! Grittyroots has some old molding planes and wants to use an iron from on of those. Bearpie in Jacksonville has some old worn out metal cutting saw blades about 1/8" thick by 2" wide and 18" long. Good idea, Bearpie! Correct me if I'm wrong but I think those are also made from HSS. It will do the trick just fine in my opinion. I spent a few months in Jacksonville once during my sailing days. There was this one girl….Sorry, I'm getting off track here….
> 
> ...


here is katalox

Katalox, or Mexican Royal Ebony, is a dense Central American hardwood. It is listed in several USDA publications as a suitable substitute for African Gabon Ebony in stringed instruments. The dark purple/black color accents well with the creamy/golden sapwood to create contrast that can be well utilized for a unique look in your projects. This wood turns well. Central America


----------



## woodspark (May 8, 2010)

woodspark said:


> *About body parts and even a mouth...*
> 
> 24 hours later and I'm back in my favorite chair! It sounds like some has already sourced plane irons in many different ways. Good! Bertha is ordering a brandnew blade, Derosa found some old plane blades at a local junk store and his Dremel with cutting disc is eager to go! Grittyroots has some old molding planes and wants to use an iron from on of those. Bearpie in Jacksonville has some old worn out metal cutting saw blades about 1/8" thick by 2" wide and 18" long. Good idea, Bearpie! Correct me if I'm wrong but I think those are also made from HSS. It will do the trick just fine in my opinion. I spent a few months in Jacksonville once during my sailing days. There was this one girl….Sorry, I'm getting off track here….
> 
> ...


Ah yes, that Indonesian rosewood be good!
Katalox also VERY nice, better you make one in both. And I learned something, you sharp with this machine!


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

woodspark said:


> *About body parts and even a mouth...*
> 
> 24 hours later and I'm back in my favorite chair! It sounds like some has already sourced plane irons in many different ways. Good! Bertha is ordering a brandnew blade, Derosa found some old plane blades at a local junk store and his Dremel with cutting disc is eager to go! Grittyroots has some old molding planes and wants to use an iron from on of those. Bearpie in Jacksonville has some old worn out metal cutting saw blades about 1/8" thick by 2" wide and 18" long. Good idea, Bearpie! Correct me if I'm wrong but I think those are also made from HSS. It will do the trick just fine in my opinion. I spent a few months in Jacksonville once during my sailing days. There was this one girl….Sorry, I'm getting off track here….
> 
> ...


i'll have to get grind stones by the dozen
to grind the steel for *two*


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

woodspark said:


> *About body parts and even a mouth...*
> 
> 24 hours later and I'm back in my favorite chair! It sounds like some has already sourced plane irons in many different ways. Good! Bertha is ordering a brandnew blade, Derosa found some old plane blades at a local junk store and his Dremel with cutting disc is eager to go! Grittyroots has some old molding planes and wants to use an iron from on of those. Bearpie in Jacksonville has some old worn out metal cutting saw blades about 1/8" thick by 2" wide and 18" long. Good idea, Bearpie! Correct me if I'm wrong but I think those are also made from HSS. It will do the trick just fine in my opinion. I spent a few months in Jacksonville once during my sailing days. There was this one girl….Sorry, I'm getting off track here….
> 
> ...


Argggh, I'm behind already!


----------



## woodspark (May 8, 2010)

woodspark said:


> *About body parts and even a mouth...*
> 
> 24 hours later and I'm back in my favorite chair! It sounds like some has already sourced plane irons in many different ways. Good! Bertha is ordering a brandnew blade, Derosa found some old plane blades at a local junk store and his Dremel with cutting disc is eager to go! Grittyroots has some old molding planes and wants to use an iron from on of those. Bearpie in Jacksonville has some old worn out metal cutting saw blades about 1/8" thick by 2" wide and 18" long. Good idea, Bearpie! Correct me if I'm wrong but I think those are also made from HSS. It will do the trick just fine in my opinion. I spent a few months in Jacksonville once during my sailing days. There was this one girl….Sorry, I'm getting off track here….
> 
> ...


David, how about 2 bodies, one blade. Then put the blade in the one you fancy at the time :^)

Al, no one is in front, so how can you be behind?


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

woodspark said:


> *About body parts and even a mouth...*
> 
> 24 hours later and I'm back in my favorite chair! It sounds like some has already sourced plane irons in many different ways. Good! Bertha is ordering a brandnew blade, Derosa found some old plane blades at a local junk store and his Dremel with cutting disc is eager to go! Grittyroots has some old molding planes and wants to use an iron from on of those. Bearpie in Jacksonville has some old worn out metal cutting saw blades about 1/8" thick by 2" wide and 18" long. Good idea, Bearpie! Correct me if I'm wrong but I think those are also made from HSS. It will do the trick just fine in my opinion. I spent a few months in Jacksonville once during my sailing days. There was this one girl….Sorry, I'm getting off track here….
> 
> ...


Bertha, if you're behind I'm motoring in reverse. LOL

Mine will be made out of hard maple. I have some offcuts after making my breakfast bar. I think I've got an old Stanley blade. I'd prefer to find something a bit thicker, but money is tight at the moment so needs must as they say.


----------



## bigike (May 25, 2009)

woodspark said:


> *About body parts and even a mouth...*
> 
> 24 hours later and I'm back in my favorite chair! It sounds like some has already sourced plane irons in many different ways. Good! Bertha is ordering a brandnew blade, Derosa found some old plane blades at a local junk store and his Dremel with cutting disc is eager to go! Grittyroots has some old molding planes and wants to use an iron from on of those. Bearpie in Jacksonville has some old worn out metal cutting saw blades about 1/8" thick by 2" wide and 18" long. Good idea, Bearpie! Correct me if I'm wrong but I think those are also made from HSS. It will do the trick just fine in my opinion. I spent a few months in Jacksonville once during my sailing days. There was this one girl….Sorry, I'm getting off track here….
> 
> ...


I'm still here following.


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

woodspark said:


> *About body parts and even a mouth...*
> 
> 24 hours later and I'm back in my favorite chair! It sounds like some has already sourced plane irons in many different ways. Good! Bertha is ordering a brandnew blade, Derosa found some old plane blades at a local junk store and his Dremel with cutting disc is eager to go! Grittyroots has some old molding planes and wants to use an iron from on of those. Bearpie in Jacksonville has some old worn out metal cutting saw blades about 1/8" thick by 2" wide and 18" long. Good idea, Bearpie! Correct me if I'm wrong but I think those are also made from HSS. It will do the trick just fine in my opinion. I spent a few months in Jacksonville once during my sailing days. There was this one girl….Sorry, I'm getting off track here….
> 
> ...


Mmmm, Katalox, Patron. It's glorious! I need to get my hands on some. It's got the sexiness of figured maple with the color of walnut (which I adore). To Brit, turn hard starboard! In time we'll be back on course The old Stanley is my backup plan, but now that I'm behind; I might wait for my Hock. Here's the Hock for anyone interested:

http://www.hocktools.com/Kits.htm#KS

The "t" blade (replacement): 3/16" x 3/4" Tee Blade #SH075 $28.00

They also offer an entire shoulder plane kit for under $100, but we have Div for that!!!


----------



## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

woodspark said:


> *About body parts and even a mouth...*
> 
> 24 hours later and I'm back in my favorite chair! It sounds like some has already sourced plane irons in many different ways. Good! Bertha is ordering a brandnew blade, Derosa found some old plane blades at a local junk store and his Dremel with cutting disc is eager to go! Grittyroots has some old molding planes and wants to use an iron from on of those. Bearpie in Jacksonville has some old worn out metal cutting saw blades about 1/8" thick by 2" wide and 18" long. Good idea, Bearpie! Correct me if I'm wrong but I think those are also made from HSS. It will do the trick just fine in my opinion. I spent a few months in Jacksonville once during my sailing days. There was this one girl….Sorry, I'm getting off track here….
> 
> ...


There are also videos for building the Hock kits on the web site. They are informative.

http://www.hocktools.com/videos.htm

Unfortunatly I am temporarily not able to build stuff or I would be right in the middle of this. : ^ )

Thanks alot for doing this Div.


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

woodspark said:


> *About body parts and even a mouth...*
> 
> 24 hours later and I'm back in my favorite chair! It sounds like some has already sourced plane irons in many different ways. Good! Bertha is ordering a brandnew blade, Derosa found some old plane blades at a local junk store and his Dremel with cutting disc is eager to go! Grittyroots has some old molding planes and wants to use an iron from on of those. Bearpie in Jacksonville has some old worn out metal cutting saw blades about 1/8" thick by 2" wide and 18" long. Good idea, Bearpie! Correct me if I'm wrong but I think those are also made from HSS. It will do the trick just fine in my opinion. I spent a few months in Jacksonville once during my sailing days. There was this one girl….Sorry, I'm getting off track here….
> 
> ...


Ha Wayne, I intentionally DIDNT watch the Hock video because I didn't want to be biased on my first shoulder plane build!  Div is my master on this one. I sincerely wish you could be in the shop with us, Wayne. You'll be littering the floor with shavings before you know it.


----------



## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

woodspark said:


> *About body parts and even a mouth...*
> 
> 24 hours later and I'm back in my favorite chair! It sounds like some has already sourced plane irons in many different ways. Good! Bertha is ordering a brandnew blade, Derosa found some old plane blades at a local junk store and his Dremel with cutting disc is eager to go! Grittyroots has some old molding planes and wants to use an iron from on of those. Bearpie in Jacksonville has some old worn out metal cutting saw blades about 1/8" thick by 2" wide and 18" long. Good idea, Bearpie! Correct me if I'm wrong but I think those are also made from HSS. It will do the trick just fine in my opinion. I spent a few months in Jacksonville once during my sailing days. There was this one girl….Sorry, I'm getting off track here….
> 
> ...


That I would. I'm already planning a trip up to visit Ron Hock this summer. I think Napaman and I are going to drive up there. Not sure if I will get plane blades, carving knife blades or what.


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

woodspark said:


> *About body parts and even a mouth...*
> 
> 24 hours later and I'm back in my favorite chair! It sounds like some has already sourced plane irons in many different ways. Good! Bertha is ordering a brandnew blade, Derosa found some old plane blades at a local junk store and his Dremel with cutting disc is eager to go! Grittyroots has some old molding planes and wants to use an iron from on of those. Bearpie in Jacksonville has some old worn out metal cutting saw blades about 1/8" thick by 2" wide and 18" long. Good idea, Bearpie! Correct me if I'm wrong but I think those are also made from HSS. It will do the trick just fine in my opinion. I spent a few months in Jacksonville once during my sailing days. There was this one girl….Sorry, I'm getting off track here….
> 
> ...


Not to hijack the thread, but those carving knife blanks are quite handsome. You're getting up in dollars for the whole cast, but I might pick up one or two.


----------



## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

woodspark said:


> *About body parts and even a mouth...*
> 
> 24 hours later and I'm back in my favorite chair! It sounds like some has already sourced plane irons in many different ways. Good! Bertha is ordering a brandnew blade, Derosa found some old plane blades at a local junk store and his Dremel with cutting disc is eager to go! Grittyroots has some old molding planes and wants to use an iron from on of those. Bearpie in Jacksonville has some old worn out metal cutting saw blades about 1/8" thick by 2" wide and 18" long. Good idea, Bearpie! Correct me if I'm wrong but I think those are also made from HSS. It will do the trick just fine in my opinion. I spent a few months in Jacksonville once during my sailing days. There was this one girl….Sorry, I'm getting off track here….
> 
> ...


They do look nice. I will look hard at the shoulder plane blades as well though it would be fun to make one. I can also use a few more bench plane blades and chip breakers.


----------



## Cher (Dec 6, 2009)

woodspark said:


> *About body parts and even a mouth...*
> 
> 24 hours later and I'm back in my favorite chair! It sounds like some has already sourced plane irons in many different ways. Good! Bertha is ordering a brandnew blade, Derosa found some old plane blades at a local junk store and his Dremel with cutting disc is eager to go! Grittyroots has some old molding planes and wants to use an iron from on of those. Bearpie in Jacksonville has some old worn out metal cutting saw blades about 1/8" thick by 2" wide and 18" long. Good idea, Bearpie! Correct me if I'm wrong but I think those are also made from HSS. It will do the trick just fine in my opinion. I spent a few months in Jacksonville once during my sailing days. There was this one girl….Sorry, I'm getting off track here….
> 
> ...


Hi Div, very good blog here, I have added this to my favourites, perhaps one day…

The purple heart really makes them look so beautiful.

Thanks for your time sharing your work Div.


----------



## woodspark (May 8, 2010)

woodspark said:


> *About body parts and even a mouth...*
> 
> 24 hours later and I'm back in my favorite chair! It sounds like some has already sourced plane irons in many different ways. Good! Bertha is ordering a brandnew blade, Derosa found some old plane blades at a local junk store and his Dremel with cutting disc is eager to go! Grittyroots has some old molding planes and wants to use an iron from on of those. Bearpie in Jacksonville has some old worn out metal cutting saw blades about 1/8" thick by 2" wide and 18" long. Good idea, Bearpie! Correct me if I'm wrong but I think those are also made from HSS. It will do the trick just fine in my opinion. I spent a few months in Jacksonville once during my sailing days. There was this one girl….Sorry, I'm getting off track here….
> 
> ...


Brit, an old Stanley blade will work just fine, no excuses OK!

Big Ike, happy that you are with us, hope it is informative.

Bertha: Al, thanks for your vote of confidence! Why pay $100 for a kit if you can make it yourself for very little?
I also haven't watched the Hock video….will do when I'm done with the blog, then probably discover a better way to do it :^)

Wayne, no problem brother, hope it can be of help. Not saying my way is best but it does work!

Cher, one day will come sooner than you think…we can take care of it in October if you want…


----------



## Cher (Dec 6, 2009)

woodspark said:


> *About body parts and even a mouth...*
> 
> 24 hours later and I'm back in my favorite chair! It sounds like some has already sourced plane irons in many different ways. Good! Bertha is ordering a brandnew blade, Derosa found some old plane blades at a local junk store and his Dremel with cutting disc is eager to go! Grittyroots has some old molding planes and wants to use an iron from on of those. Bearpie in Jacksonville has some old worn out metal cutting saw blades about 1/8" thick by 2" wide and 18" long. Good idea, Bearpie! Correct me if I'm wrong but I think those are also made from HSS. It will do the trick just fine in my opinion. I spent a few months in Jacksonville once during my sailing days. There was this one girl….Sorry, I'm getting off track here….
> 
> ...


Hi Div, thank you. If I dont pack anything else, the plane and the biltong will definitely be in the suitcase..lol.


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## woodspark (May 8, 2010)

*The mouth. Don't open wide, we are not at the dentist! (sorry Ken)*

As I write, my blue Monday is behind me but some of my American friends are still busy dealing with theirs! Let's get rid of the blues and go back to our project. The glue is dry and we can pop the clamps. I've always liked this stage of a project, that moment when you can take off the clamps and clean up the glue lines. Again, a reminder of what we want to achieve:



















This is where we are. Cut the pins close to the timber and clean up the glue lines. If there is glue squeeze out inside the mortise, carefully remove with a narrow chisel. Right, time to do something about the mouth of our plane.










The opening in the bottom now needs to be continued through the 2 cheeks. Clamp the plane body tightly in your bench vise and use a fine saw to carefully cut along the lines marked on the cheeks. Only through into the hole!










Rather cut to the inside of the lines! The ramp or landing needs to nice and flat and square to the body and also in the same plane as the rest of the landing inside the body. Carefully flatten with a very sharp chisel, working diagonally along the grain with a slicing action. Keep the grain direction in mind; you don't want to cut against the grain! It means working from the hole to the outside. We want the blade to have full contact with the landing so it won't chatter.

So far we haven't touched the front side of the mouth opening. The back side where the blade will be resting is nice and flat. If you've cut very closely to the marked lines, the blade should just be able to slide into this gap. In other words, the width of the opening is the same as the thickness of your blade. If it doesn't want to go in don't despair! Again use that sharp chisel and carefully remove just enough from the front side so the blade will slide in snugly.

Why all this care with the mouth? We don't want a plane with a wide open mouth like some people I know!!










The mouth opening is IMPORTANT! I jump the gun a little to show what the deal is. This will actually only get done when the blade has been made. With the blade in the plane, the mouth opening should ideally be only the thickness of the shaving! 
Note how the front face is slightly angled in relation to the blade. This is to help with clearing the shaving. Let's use our sharpest tool (the mind) a little… Because those two yellow lines are not parallel to each other, the mouth opening will become bigger as material is removed from the sole of the plane! This will happen when you true the sole of your plane, initially and occasionally throughout its life.
If the front face has more angle, this will happen quicker. Best to have that mouth opening as small as possible initially. It is then carefully opened with a sharp chisel or, more easily with a needle file when the plane gets fine tuned.










Here is the view from the bottom.










This is a good time to chamfer the edges of that hole on both sides. I use a sharp chisel, always taking note of grain direction. Aim to have the chamfers meet in the middle, thus creating a V-shape in section. Note how the chamfer tapers to none where it meets the landing. All this is done to help with the clearing of the sweet shavings you will be making when this baby is done. You might want to wrap some sandpaper around a dowel to help smooth things out a little, just in case that chisel does not cooperate!

I trust it all makes sense to you. If something is not clear, please ask and I'll do my best to clarify. Next we look at finally making the plane iron.


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

woodspark said:


> *The mouth. Don't open wide, we are not at the dentist! (sorry Ken)*
> 
> As I write, my blue Monday is behind me but some of my American friends are still busy dealing with theirs! Let's get rid of the blues and go back to our project. The glue is dry and we can pop the clamps. I've always liked this stage of a project, that moment when you can take off the clamps and clean up the glue lines. Again, a reminder of what we want to achieve:
> 
> ...


That's a nice even mouth. A dentist would be proud. I hope I can get that tight.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

woodspark said:


> *The mouth. Don't open wide, we are not at the dentist! (sorry Ken)*
> 
> As I write, my blue Monday is behind me but some of my American friends are still busy dealing with theirs! Let's get rid of the blues and go back to our project. The glue is dry and we can pop the clamps. I've always liked this stage of a project, that moment when you can take off the clamps and clean up the glue lines. Again, a reminder of what we want to achieve:
> 
> ...


Hi brother,
It's looking good! That saw doesn't speak English does it?
I think even I understand all here - think I said.
Thank you for taking your time on this I enjoy to see you in action here.

I am catching up, now at the point where the blade are made and the clamps will go off tomorrow, but now it two hours past midnight so I have to sleep (Mathilda needs breakfast and a father's arms at seven before school).









Here a picture just before I clamp for the night, as you can see I made it low angel after all just for the testing.
Took plenty of pictures on each step while working on it, also while making the iron (It's done), so I will make a blog also as usual.

When the blog is online I will post on your blog with a link so you can check on the student.
Best thoughts to you and all the wonderful woman around you,
Mads


----------



## grittyroots (Jan 13, 2011)

woodspark said:


> *The mouth. Don't open wide, we are not at the dentist! (sorry Ken)*
> 
> As I write, my blue Monday is behind me but some of my American friends are still busy dealing with theirs! Let's get rid of the blues and go back to our project. The glue is dry and we can pop the clamps. I've always liked this stage of a project, that moment when you can take off the clamps and clean up the glue lines. Again, a reminder of what we want to achieve:
> 
> ...












here's mine. i'm still working on the shape. it's made out of osage orange. thanks for the push into this addiction.


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## Cher (Dec 6, 2009)

woodspark said:


> *The mouth. Don't open wide, we are not at the dentist! (sorry Ken)*
> 
> As I write, my blue Monday is behind me but some of my American friends are still busy dealing with theirs! Let's get rid of the blues and go back to our project. The glue is dry and we can pop the clamps. I've always liked this stage of a project, that moment when you can take off the clamps and clean up the glue lines. Again, a reminder of what we want to achieve:
> 
> ...


Hi Div, this is an excellent blog, again I have added it to my favourites. I will make one of these one day.

Thanks again Div


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

woodspark said:


> *The mouth. Don't open wide, we are not at the dentist! (sorry Ken)*
> 
> As I write, my blue Monday is behind me but some of my American friends are still busy dealing with theirs! Let's get rid of the blues and go back to our project. The glue is dry and we can pop the clamps. I've always liked this stage of a project, that moment when you can take off the clamps and clean up the glue lines. Again, a reminder of what we want to achieve:
> 
> ...


Looking good grittyroots!

*So first two parts is blogged now from me: *









The plane on top is the one you made for me Div, under comes my plane body at this stage, and finally the Plane iron.

Making the body:
http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23427
Making the plane iron:
http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23429
Making an adjustable plane iron from a spade drill:
http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23430
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## woodspark (May 8, 2010)

woodspark said:


> *The mouth. Don't open wide, we are not at the dentist! (sorry Ken)*
> 
> As I write, my blue Monday is behind me but some of my American friends are still busy dealing with theirs! Let's get rid of the blues and go back to our project. The glue is dry and we can pop the clamps. I've always liked this stage of a project, that moment when you can take off the clamps and clean up the glue lines. Again, a reminder of what we want to achieve:
> 
> ...


Hi *Mads*, that saw actually does speak English, it is a Marples! But it does have very strong Japanese ancestry…meaning, yes, I have to pull it. Recent gift from a friend who returned from the States, it is now the only tool in my shop with a plastic handle!

Re your picture, that is why we love you, always experimenting, always pushing the limits. Looks good! I will check out you blog shortly….

*Grittyroots*,I love it man! I think Osage orange is a very good choice. Careful of this game, impossible to make only one plane :^)

I REALLY like how my little blog is helping to inspire! I ALSO REALLY like how each maker is using the principle and coming up with his own unique version. LOVE IT, love it!! I could get addicted to this blogging thing!


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

woodspark said:


> *The mouth. Don't open wide, we are not at the dentist! (sorry Ken)*
> 
> As I write, my blue Monday is behind me but some of my American friends are still busy dealing with theirs! Let's get rid of the blues and go back to our project. The glue is dry and we can pop the clamps. I've always liked this stage of a project, that moment when you can take off the clamps and clean up the glue lines. Again, a reminder of what we want to achieve:
> 
> ...


Mads, are you going to keep the vestige of the Stanley iron curve? I'm anxiously awaiting to see whether you'll knock it down flat or keep it as is, as a remembrance of its roots


----------



## BigTiny (Jun 29, 2010)

woodspark said:


> *The mouth. Don't open wide, we are not at the dentist! (sorry Ken)*
> 
> As I write, my blue Monday is behind me but some of my American friends are still busy dealing with theirs! Let's get rid of the blues and go back to our project. The glue is dry and we can pop the clamps. I've always liked this stage of a project, that moment when you can take off the clamps and clean up the glue lines. Again, a reminder of what we want to achieve:
> 
> ...


Looking good, Div!


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

woodspark said:


> *The mouth. Don't open wide, we are not at the dentist! (sorry Ken)*
> 
> As I write, my blue Monday is behind me but some of my American friends are still busy dealing with theirs! Let's get rid of the blues and go back to our project. The glue is dry and we can pop the clamps. I've always liked this stage of a project, that moment when you can take off the clamps and clean up the glue lines. Again, a reminder of what we want to achieve:
> 
> ...


Hi Div, Marples (I love that name - Marples)? I could see it was not a push and the teeths seemed long and hook shaped, so I guessed Japan. But We learn new every day.
Yes I'm pushing it here, but I'm a child, and love to learn - just posted a PDF document with the solution to my problems on the low angle mouth in my blog.
I have not decided yet if I will make a new body tomorrow or fix the old, sometimes it's better to start fresh.
(so if I have a good day tomorrow I will spend a hour or two playing, today was not a workshop day, but fine).
Bertha, sorry but this question I do not understand at all. The blade is not a Stanley.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

woodspark said:


> *The mouth. Don't open wide, we are not at the dentist! (sorry Ken)*
> 
> As I write, my blue Monday is behind me but some of my American friends are still busy dealing with theirs! Let's get rid of the blues and go back to our project. The glue is dry and we can pop the clamps. I've always liked this stage of a project, that moment when you can take off the clamps and clean up the glue lines. Again, a reminder of what we want to achieve:
> 
> ...


Grrrrrrrr,
I work on three different models now, two in real progress, one dumped… My worktable is a mess and I am sure I have wild eyes and look like a mad scientist. Nothing seem to work now!










But I still try, and I still have a wonderful time as I go after new ideas. 
(I might end up throwing the towel and make it bevel down!).
Yes I am a mad man I know, and you are allowed to laugh as long as you do it sweet.

Best thoughts my dear brother,
Mads


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

woodspark said:


> *The mouth. Don't open wide, we are not at the dentist! (sorry Ken)*
> 
> As I write, my blue Monday is behind me but some of my American friends are still busy dealing with theirs! Let's get rid of the blues and go back to our project. The glue is dry and we can pop the clamps. I've always liked this stage of a project, that moment when you can take off the clamps and clean up the glue lines. Again, a reminder of what we want to achieve:
> 
> ...


yuk yuk

as the three stooges would say

sometimes you are the teacher
sometimes the student

all in a life's work

enjoy


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

woodspark said:


> *The mouth. Don't open wide, we are not at the dentist! (sorry Ken)*
> 
> As I write, my blue Monday is behind me but some of my American friends are still busy dealing with theirs! Let's get rid of the blues and go back to our project. The glue is dry and we can pop the clamps. I've always liked this stage of a project, that moment when you can take off the clamps and clean up the glue lines. Again, a reminder of what we want to achieve:
> 
> ...


Do you know the song 'I belive I can fly'?
This is how I feel now!










The answer was right under my nose.
I did it!!!
It's making wonderful shaves,
Jubiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii
MaFe in space!!!
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

woodspark said:


> *The mouth. Don't open wide, we are not at the dentist! (sorry Ken)*
> 
> As I write, my blue Monday is behind me but some of my American friends are still busy dealing with theirs! Let's get rid of the blues and go back to our project. The glue is dry and we can pop the clamps. I've always liked this stage of a project, that moment when you can take off the clamps and clean up the glue lines. Again, a reminder of what we want to achieve:
> 
> ...












Yes David, and sometimes there are just a hair from giving up to the answer, and it seems impossible to go this last part.


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## woodspark (May 8, 2010)

woodspark said:


> *The mouth. Don't open wide, we are not at the dentist! (sorry Ken)*
> 
> As I write, my blue Monday is behind me but some of my American friends are still busy dealing with theirs! Let's get rid of the blues and go back to our project. The glue is dry and we can pop the clamps. I've always liked this stage of a project, that moment when you can take off the clamps and clean up the glue lines. Again, a reminder of what we want to achieve:
> 
> ...


Tra la la! I knew you would do it Einstein! I like your model, modern in a way, something reminds me of Japanese! Well done brother in the North. That #311 Record did shine some light, yes?
She is actually a tiny puppy, I only realize it now, when seen in comparison with the one I gave you.
What is the width?


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

woodspark said:


> *The mouth. Don't open wide, we are not at the dentist! (sorry Ken)*
> 
> As I write, my blue Monday is behind me but some of my American friends are still busy dealing with theirs! Let's get rid of the blues and go back to our project. The glue is dry and we can pop the clamps. I've always liked this stage of a project, that moment when you can take off the clamps and clean up the glue lines. Again, a reminder of what we want to achieve:
> 
> ...


Thank you, my face just turned red.
Yes the 311 is a world of it's own, it is a piece of art when it comes to toolmaking, so perfect in shape and function, and then it are shoulder, bull nose and chisel plane in one - amazing.










The Record are 29mm the one you gave me is 20mm, the one I made are 15mm (not on photo) and the Veritas micro is 6mm so I have several sizes now. 
The first of the big wood shoulder planes are with bullnose also, and the second is skeved.


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## woodspark (May 8, 2010)

woodspark said:


> *The mouth. Don't open wide, we are not at the dentist! (sorry Ken)*
> 
> As I write, my blue Monday is behind me but some of my American friends are still busy dealing with theirs! Let's get rid of the blues and go back to our project. The glue is dry and we can pop the clamps. I've always liked this stage of a project, that moment when you can take off the clamps and clean up the glue lines. Again, a reminder of what we want to achieve:
> 
> ...


Didn't mean a red face, sorry! That #311 Record is one of my most treasured working planes, I love it.
Looking at your sizes, I would say you need a 10mm now :^)) Good night, sleep well….ZZZZZZ


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

woodspark said:


> *The mouth. Don't open wide, we are not at the dentist! (sorry Ken)*
> 
> As I write, my blue Monday is behind me but some of my American friends are still busy dealing with theirs! Let's get rid of the blues and go back to our project. The glue is dry and we can pop the clamps. I've always liked this stage of a project, that moment when you can take off the clamps and clean up the glue lines. Again, a reminder of what we want to achieve:
> 
> ...


Good night.
;-)_o zzzzzzzzz


----------



## DavidHarms (Feb 25, 2008)

woodspark said:


> *The mouth. Don't open wide, we are not at the dentist! (sorry Ken)*
> 
> As I write, my blue Monday is behind me but some of my American friends are still busy dealing with theirs! Let's get rid of the blues and go back to our project. The glue is dry and we can pop the clamps. I've always liked this stage of a project, that moment when you can take off the clamps and clean up the glue lines. Again, a reminder of what we want to achieve:
> 
> ...


Div, this is a cool process for building these, thanks for posting the process!


----------



## DavidHarms (Feb 25, 2008)

woodspark said:


> *The mouth. Don't open wide, we are not at the dentist! (sorry Ken)*
> 
> As I write, my blue Monday is behind me but some of my American friends are still busy dealing with theirs! Let's get rid of the blues and go back to our project. The glue is dry and we can pop the clamps. I've always liked this stage of a project, that moment when you can take off the clamps and clean up the glue lines. Again, a reminder of what we want to achieve:
> 
> ...


Div, thanks again for posting this blog series, i wanted to let you know that i quoted your work in a recent podcast on my blog.


----------



## woodspark (May 8, 2010)

woodspark said:


> *The mouth. Don't open wide, we are not at the dentist! (sorry Ken)*
> 
> As I write, my blue Monday is behind me but some of my American friends are still busy dealing with theirs! Let's get rid of the blues and go back to our project. The glue is dry and we can pop the clamps. I've always liked this stage of a project, that moment when you can take off the clamps and clean up the glue lines. Again, a reminder of what we want to achieve:
> 
> ...


DavidH, does this mean I am famous now? :^) Cool dude!


----------



## DavidHarms (Feb 25, 2008)

woodspark said:


> *The mouth. Don't open wide, we are not at the dentist! (sorry Ken)*
> 
> As I write, my blue Monday is behind me but some of my American friends are still busy dealing with theirs! Let's get rid of the blues and go back to our project. The glue is dry and we can pop the clamps. I've always liked this stage of a project, that moment when you can take off the clamps and clean up the glue lines. Again, a reminder of what we want to achieve:
> 
> ...


haha, seeing as i'm not famous i would have to say no , LOL!!


----------



## bilbaggins (Sep 11, 2011)

woodspark said:


> *The mouth. Don't open wide, we are not at the dentist! (sorry Ken)*
> 
> As I write, my blue Monday is behind me but some of my American friends are still busy dealing with theirs! Let's get rid of the blues and go back to our project. The glue is dry and we can pop the clamps. I've always liked this stage of a project, that moment when you can take off the clamps and clean up the glue lines. Again, a reminder of what we want to achieve:
> 
> ...


Thanks folks… this post is really helpful


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

woodspark said:


> *The mouth. Don't open wide, we are not at the dentist! (sorry Ken)*
> 
> As I write, my blue Monday is behind me but some of my American friends are still busy dealing with theirs! Let's get rid of the blues and go back to our project. The glue is dry and we can pop the clamps. I've always liked this stage of a project, that moment when you can take off the clamps and clean up the glue lines. Again, a reminder of what we want to achieve:
> 
> ...


This too… is resurrected… Awesome!


----------



## woodspark (May 8, 2010)

*Let's make us an iron!*

If this is happening a little too slow for your liking, it is because I have to make sawdust all day long to keep the wolf from the door. That is 10 hours gone. Making these little planes and blogging about it is mostly a night time affair, after taking care of normal daily chores and duties!

We have made a plane body and it is looking pretty good! Time to do some metalwork.
This is what we want to achieve:










At the top is the finished plane iron, below is the material I made it from; an old HSS jointer knife.
There are four dimensions that concern us: 
1. Blade width.
2. Blade length.
3. Tang width.
4. Tang length.

BLADE WIDTH.










The blade width needs to be a little wider than the width of our finished plane body. Measure the body width and add a wee bit, say 1/16". It can always be fine tuned later on. In the end the blade needs to stick out just a teeny bit past the edge of the plane on each side.

BLADE LENGTH










Blade length is determined by measuring the distance as shown in the photo. It is the length of the exposed ramp or landing that was so carefully flattened when we built the plane body.

TANG WIDTH.










The width of our tang must be a little less than that of the tenon or opening. Theoretically it can be a sliding fit but then everything must be perfectly square and centre. By making this fit a little loose we get some lateral or sideways adjustment. This will ensure that the blade can be set parallel to the sole with equal amounts protruding past the sides.
The 3mm (1/8") difference as shown in the photo will be too much for a real narrow plane like the one I've made here (5/8"width). I think it would be fine for a larger plane. If in doubt, make it only 1/16th, it is easy to grind more at a later stage if necessary.

TANG LENGTH.










Obviously it needs to be long enough to go through the plane! It also needs to stick out past the wedge for ease of adjustment. As always, rather make it longer. Again, it is easy to shorten at a later stage, once you are used to the plane.










Once all these dimensions are obtained, mark them out on your blade material. Make sure the tang is centered! The HSS I used is hard stuff and nothing I have in the shop will scratch it for marking. I also couldn't find something that would write on it. I covered it with masking tape for easy marking.
I cut with a 4" slim cutting disc in a baby angle grinder. The beauty of HSS is that you don't have to worry about heat; it doesn't affect the material's properties. If you are working on an old plane blade, cut slowly and cool often with water. You don't want the steel to get hot!










Once cut, clean the edges on a disc sander or grinding wheel. Ensure that the edges are straight, square and parallel to each other. Time to check the blade for fit in the plane and adjust by more grinding if necessary. You might need to ease the shoulders of the blade for a good fit. Then grind the primary bevel to 25 degrees. I do this on a bench grinder with shop made adjustable rest to get the angle perfect.

If you are using carbon steel, KEEP COOL! Not you, the steel :^) Have a container with water handy and dip very often.










A few swipes on my whetstone to establish the secondary bevel, some polishing with the strop and we are done! I know some likes to use sandpaper for sharpening. Whatever works for you!

Next we'll make the wedge and fine tune our plane. In the meantime, why don't you shave with your new blade tomorrow morning!


----------



## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

woodspark said:


> *Let's make us an iron!*
> 
> If this is happening a little too slow for your liking, it is because I have to make sawdust all day long to keep the wolf from the door. That is 10 hours gone. Making these little planes and blogging about it is mostly a night time affair, after taking care of normal daily chores and duties!
> 
> ...


Looks very nice Div. Thanks again for putting all of this together.


----------



## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

woodspark said:


> *Let's make us an iron!*
> 
> If this is happening a little too slow for your liking, it is because I have to make sawdust all day long to keep the wolf from the door. That is 10 hours gone. Making these little planes and blogging about it is mostly a night time affair, after taking care of normal daily chores and duties!
> 
> ...


Div, Here's another one for the notebook. Thanks.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

woodspark said:


> *Let's make us an iron!*
> 
> If this is happening a little too slow for your liking, it is because I have to make sawdust all day long to keep the wolf from the door. That is 10 hours gone. Making these little planes and blogging about it is mostly a night time affair, after taking care of normal daily chores and duties!
> 
> ...


Looking good!!!
I envy that thick steel.
Do you really mean a 3mm slip for the tang? I made only 1/3 mm slip for it.






Please look at this brother, and if you have doubt 'yes I'm really happy I managed' laugh.

*Best of my thoughts,*
Mads


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

woodspark said:


> *Let's make us an iron!*
> 
> If this is happening a little too slow for your liking, it is because I have to make sawdust all day long to keep the wolf from the door. That is 10 hours gone. Making these little planes and blogging about it is mostly a night time affair, after taking care of normal daily chores and duties!
> 
> ...


^me too, Mads. Mine seems wimpy in comparison.


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## woodspark (May 8, 2010)

woodspark said:


> *Let's make us an iron!*
> 
> If this is happening a little too slow for your liking, it is because I have to make sawdust all day long to keep the wolf from the door. That is 10 hours gone. Making these little planes and blogging about it is mostly a night time affair, after taking care of normal daily chores and duties!
> 
> ...


Mads, 3mm slip on a large plane, say 25mm wide. Your plane is very small. Plus, I know you work accurately. In theory, no slip is neccessary if everything can be done precisely :^) In the text I suggested 1,5mm just to make it easier for first time builders.
That HSS is 3mm thick, one of the reasons I like it. Even though the thickness is not really neccessary, it still just looks good! :^)
I waited a long time and downloaded the video…Looks wonderful! Do you really plane that fast or is it just the video? I would be dead at the end of the day at that speed….

Al, thick is not necessary, just ask Paul Sellers :^) It just makes me feel…kind of japanese I guess! When do we see yours?

Wayne, no problem, I actually enjoy it. Just wish I had more time for it….

Rand, you might recognize some of the photos :^) I had some other LJ's asking for pics, decided to blog it.


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

woodspark said:


> *Let's make us an iron!*
> 
> If this is happening a little too slow for your liking, it is because I have to make sawdust all day long to keep the wolf from the door. That is 10 hours gone. Making these little planes and blogging about it is mostly a night time affair, after taking care of normal daily chores and duties!
> 
> ...


Div, mine's over in my blog titled "Div Inspired"! I used an old Stanley as substrate, very non-Japanese. Paul would approve!


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

woodspark said:


> *Let's make us an iron!*
> 
> If this is happening a little too slow for your liking, it is because I have to make sawdust all day long to keep the wolf from the door. That is 10 hours gone. Making these little planes and blogging about it is mostly a night time affair, after taking care of normal daily chores and duties!
> 
> ...


you guys are something special

crystal clear instructions

thank you


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

woodspark said:


> *Let's make us an iron!*
> 
> If this is happening a little too slow for your liking, it is because I have to make sawdust all day long to keep the wolf from the door. That is 10 hours gone. Making these little planes and blogging about it is mostly a night time affair, after taking care of normal daily chores and duties!
> 
> ...


On my version I think actually a thick Iron would make a difference for the stability.
No I do not plane that fast normally, but I was really happy, and then you know how we kids are!


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## woodspark (May 8, 2010)

woodspark said:


> *Let's make us an iron!*
> 
> If this is happening a little too slow for your liking, it is because I have to make sawdust all day long to keep the wolf from the door. That is 10 hours gone. Making these little planes and blogging about it is mostly a night time affair, after taking care of normal daily chores and duties!
> 
> ...


David, glad it makes sense. Trust you are well in your piece of heaven!

Mads, I laugh! Excitement takes over. The rhykenology kids! It is my bedtime now, M is asleep already! We talk again tomorrow night….


----------



## BigTiny (Jun 29, 2010)

woodspark said:


> *Let's make us an iron!*
> 
> If this is happening a little too slow for your liking, it is because I have to make sawdust all day long to keep the wolf from the door. That is 10 hours gone. Making these little planes and blogging about it is mostly a night time affair, after taking care of normal daily chores and duties!
> 
> ...


Hi Div.

Looking better and better!


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

woodspark said:


> *Let's make us an iron!*
> 
> If this is happening a little too slow for your liking, it is because I have to make sawdust all day long to keep the wolf from the door. That is 10 hours gone. Making these little planes and blogging about it is mostly a night time affair, after taking care of normal daily chores and duties!
> 
> ...


Lots of different options. I like that. Thanks Div.


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## Schwieb (Dec 3, 2008)

woodspark said:


> *Let's make us an iron!*
> 
> If this is happening a little too slow for your liking, it is because I have to make sawdust all day long to keep the wolf from the door. That is 10 hours gone. Making these little planes and blogging about it is mostly a night time affair, after taking care of normal daily chores and duties!
> 
> ...


Great instructions Div. Even I could do this, and I will.


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## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

woodspark said:


> *Let's make us an iron!*
> 
> If this is happening a little too slow for your liking, it is because I have to make sawdust all day long to keep the wolf from the door. That is 10 hours gone. Making these little planes and blogging about it is mostly a night time affair, after taking care of normal daily chores and duties!
> 
> ...


It has never crossed my mind that I could make a plane - much less that I should make one. I have used HSS planer blades and I now have a handmade plane on my list! but - - - its a long list! Thanks for the blog!


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

woodspark said:


> *Let's make us an iron!*
> 
> If this is happening a little too slow for your liking, it is because I have to make sawdust all day long to keep the wolf from the door. That is 10 hours gone. Making these little planes and blogging about it is mostly a night time affair, after taking care of normal daily chores and duties!
> 
> ...


Hey Div, I asked Mads the same question: I'm considering chamfering the edges of my iron. Can you think of a good way to execute this operation? I can't jig it on the wetgrinder, grab it with my Eclipse jig, or figure out a scary sharp method. I'm perplexed. Between the Div and Mads bedding angles, I'm going with 37.5 degrees. I'm curious to see how this pans out!


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## woodspark (May 8, 2010)

woodspark said:


> *Let's make us an iron!*
> 
> If this is happening a little too slow for your liking, it is because I have to make sawdust all day long to keep the wolf from the door. That is 10 hours gone. Making these little planes and blogging about it is mostly a night time affair, after taking care of normal daily chores and duties!
> 
> ...


Big Tiny, getting there hey!

Stefang, many ways to skin a cat..

Schieb: Ken, please make one, you'll find it very satisfying. I promise!

Sras, you should try it, nothing like making your own plane and seeing those curls unfold!

Bertha: Al, I would to it on my 8" slow speed bench grinder. I made an adjustable toolrest from timber and use this contraption to grind primary bevels on all my tools. It has a slot cut in it, slightly wider than the grinding wheel and sits real close to the wheel. This toolrest hold the iron at the exact angle I require. It would be easy to grind side bevels with this device. I replaced the crappy grey wheels you sometimes get with these machines with white aluminum oxide ones. I've been using this set up for years. Just can't get myself to justify the cost of a wet grinder system with all its fancy jigs. They cost a fortune down here!

That 37.5 degrees should be great!


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

woodspark said:


> *Let's make us an iron!*
> 
> If this is happening a little too slow for your liking, it is because I have to make sawdust all day long to keep the wolf from the door. That is 10 hours gone. Making these little planes and blogging about it is mostly a night time affair, after taking care of normal daily chores and duties!
> 
> ...


They cost a fortune over here too! I thought I was done when I bought the wet wheel, only to discover the planer blade jig is $173.00! I'm going to modify my el cheapo wetgrinder to do the bevel, then clean it up (hopefully) on the strop. Thanks, Div!


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## woodspark (May 8, 2010)

*Let's wedge it!*

It makes me REAL happy to see that some guys have been inspired to make their own planes! For that reason, I will patiently bear the slowness of my backwater farm style dial up connection…..

The last part to be made is the wedge. Just a simple piece of wood but with a very important function! Not only does it hold the blade firmly in position, it also acts as a chip breaker of sorts.










Remember when we made the plane body (Part II) there was this little off cut piece to be saved? This gives us the exact angle for our wedge. What, you can't find it? Well, all is not lost except a fair amount of fiddling to establish that angle again. The angle of the wedge is important. Look what happens if it is not right:

WEDGE ANGLE TOO HIGH.










If the wedge angle is too high, there is only contact between the wedge and the plane body at the top of the tenon. Because the blade is now not supported near the mouth, chatter lies ahead! You will not be happy with the performance of your plane!

WEDGE ANGLE TOO LOW.










If the wedge angle is too low, there is only contact between the wedge and plane body at the bottom of the tenon. This is better than above, at least the blade is supported near the mouth. Since the blade is not supported/wedged all the way it will never be wedged firmly. With a wedge not making full contact, the plane will continuously need adjustment; the blade will keep slipping and won't stay where you want it, especially if you hit a knot or some difficult grain. Better to get that angle just right!

A FEW POINTERS WHEN MAKING THE WEDGE.










1. If you want, make the wedge from a different contrasting piece of wood. Just be sure you have the grain running length wise.
2. Shape, carve or otherwise embellish the fat end as you feel. The IMPORTANT thing is to have the blade go past the end of the wedge for ease in adjustment.
3. I should have mentioned this earlier. Some roughness on the plane bed/landing is good; it helps to increase friction for holding the blade tightly. Same goes for the wedge. Leave it natural and unfinished for the same reason. Oil only that highly decorative carving that you spent so much time on! (This for Bertha!)










4. See where the wedge ends? It needs to be some distance back from the mouth. Cut off where required and gently round over the end to help the shavings glide over it.










5. Here is a little secret that Mads discovered by himself whilst having his coffee, with pipe and tobacco, no doubt! Hollow the bottom face of the wedge very lightly, along the length. This little trick helps greatly in supplying compression in all the right places. We want the wedge to hold the blade firmly, especially near the mouth. THIS IS IMPORTANT! Not having good compression near the mouth is the most common cause of a chattering or badly performing plane!

OK, my wife wants me to watch a DVD with her. I'm already in trouble with the "boss" about spending too much time on LJ's :^( Next, we will fine-tune our plane. Still to come is an installment on properly adjusting the set of the blade. Finally, we will look at ways to turbo charge a wooden shoulder plane! Stay tuned!


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

woodspark said:


> *Let's wedge it!*
> 
> It makes me REAL happy to see that some guys have been inspired to make their own planes! For that reason, I will patiently bear the slowness of my backwater farm style dial up connection…..
> 
> ...


Hi my dear Div.
Thank you for another wonderful and informative blog in this inspireing series (100 times better than watching tv). Mathilde (my daughter) and I watced slumdog millionaire tonight and that was a wonderful movie though.
And after saying goodnight to you now I will go and see the movie Beautiful, that I have been looking forward to see for a while.
In my country we say 'need learns the nakid woman to spun', so yes I figured out the hollowing of the wedge.
The very best of my thoughts,
Send my love to M and say I look at Caroline every day now with a smile thanks to her.
Mads


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## Bearpie (Feb 19, 2010)

woodspark said:


> *Let's wedge it!*
> 
> It makes me REAL happy to see that some guys have been inspired to make their own planes! For that reason, I will patiently bear the slowness of my backwater farm style dial up connection…..
> 
> ...


Thanks for all your instructions and I will be making one soon.

Erwin, Jacksonville, FL


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## woodspark (May 8, 2010)

woodspark said:


> *Let's wedge it!*
> 
> It makes me REAL happy to see that some guys have been inspired to make their own planes! For that reason, I will patiently bear the slowness of my backwater farm style dial up connection…..
> 
> ...


Hey Mads, yes we watched DVD last night so I was off line.Slumdog millionaire is a brilliant movie! Gave your message to M, she happy and sends love back. Me too!

Bearpie, no problem. Please do make one, it is most satisfying to see those shavings curl out eventually!


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

woodspark said:


> *Let's wedge it!*
> 
> It makes me REAL happy to see that some guys have been inspired to make their own planes! For that reason, I will patiently bear the slowness of my backwater farm style dial up connection…..
> 
> ...


Today I watched the Spanish move Beautiful and I cant remember the last time I cry so much, that is truely a masterpiece of a movie wauuuu. Get it and see it! Thank you for the hello it warms my heart.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

woodspark said:


> *Let's wedge it!*
> 
> It makes me REAL happy to see that some guys have been inspired to make their own planes! For that reason, I will patiently bear the slowness of my backwater farm style dial up connection…..
> 
> ...


Mads, wauuuu, agree to all above; I haven't teared up so much since Amistad. I needed this tutorial and it was delivered in real-time; poor Div needs to get some sleep  Suffice it to say that I pushed a plane (that didn't exist before your post) against some wood and made nice shavings. A peek into the essence of life.


----------



## Schwieb (Dec 3, 2008)

woodspark said:


> *Let's wedge it!*
> 
> It makes me REAL happy to see that some guys have been inspired to make their own planes! For that reason, I will patiently bear the slowness of my backwater farm style dial up connection…..
> 
> ...


Hi Div, You are doing a really great job on this blog. I haven't been able to work on this project much yet. Presently I am up in Ohio visiting family. I hope to find an old plane iron while I am up here, for sure I am carrying back some hardwoods with me (walnut, ash, birds eye maple, and maybe some buckeye). I'm not as talented as you but I intend to make you proud!! Best wishes to you and the girls.


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## bigike (May 25, 2009)

woodspark said:


> *Let's wedge it!*
> 
> It makes me REAL happy to see that some guys have been inspired to make their own planes! For that reason, I will patiently bear the slowness of my backwater farm style dial up connection…..
> 
> ...


nice


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## woodspark (May 8, 2010)

woodspark said:


> *Let's wedge it!*
> 
> It makes me REAL happy to see that some guys have been inspired to make their own planes! For that reason, I will patiently bear the slowness of my backwater farm style dial up connection…..
> 
> ...


Ken, have a good visit! I'm sure you'll find an old iron, and certainly enough wood by the sound of things!
Promise to show your finished plane? Best to H.

bigike, thanks.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

woodspark said:


> *Let's wedge it!*
> 
> It makes me REAL happy to see that some guys have been inspired to make their own planes! For that reason, I will patiently bear the slowness of my backwater farm style dial up connection…..
> 
> ...


Thanks Div. I like the wedge hollowing idea, sounds right to me.


----------



## woodspark (May 8, 2010)

woodspark said:


> *Let's wedge it!*
> 
> It makes me REAL happy to see that some guys have been inspired to make their own planes! For that reason, I will patiently bear the slowness of my backwater farm style dial up connection…..
> 
> ...


Pleasure Mike. It works well, ask Mads!


----------



## cyclops4069 (Jan 30, 2014)

woodspark said:


> *Let's wedge it!*
> 
> It makes me REAL happy to see that some guys have been inspired to make their own planes! For that reason, I will patiently bear the slowness of my backwater farm style dial up connection…..
> 
> ...


div, many thanks for all these amazing blogs/projects about plane making. I have learnt so much here from your builds and from others (mafe)....there are some truly beautiful tools being made….and I find them all very educational and inspiring.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

woodspark said:


> *Let's wedge it!*
> 
> It makes me REAL happy to see that some guys have been inspired to make their own planes! For that reason, I will patiently bear the slowness of my backwater farm style dial up connection…..
> 
> ...


We miss you Div!


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## woodspark (May 8, 2010)

*Tune me finely...but how do I adjust the iron?*










Body done, wedge done, plane iron done. If you are anything like me, eagerness to see some shavings has replaced all other desires at this stage! With a bit of luck, paper thin shavings will be curling out of the mouth. Isn't it great! If not, don't despair….

LET'S FINE TUNE:

1. True the plane sole. This is done with the blade in place but well away from the mouth and the wedge set up tightly as it would be in use. Why? With the wedge set, our plane is in "tension". The wood actually distorts a little, especially just behind the iron.
Clamp a long strip of sandpaper to the table saw top or, if you really want to be fancy, stick it onto a piece of float glass. With little more pressure than the weight of the plane, take a light pass and have a look at the sole. Any high spots will reveal themselves as abraded areas. Usually there will be one just behind the iron. Continue sanding with a light touch, checking on progress often, until the entire sole has been evenly abraded. Take off only the minimum; the more we take off, the more we open the mouth. We don't want that!

*How do I get the wedge out?*

So you whacked the wedge in tightly, the sole is beautifully true and now we can't get the frigging wedge out! Like many things, it is easy, if you know how. Give the back end of the plane a firm tap or two with a small hammer (4-6 oz.) A little brass hammer will be perfect for this.










2. With the iron in place, have a look at the mouth. Ideally, we want the opening the same as the thickness of a shaving. If it is too tight, carefully file with a needle file or similar. Angle the file so the opening is not parallel to the blade when looking from the side. At the same time, ensure that the opening remains parallel to the blade when viewed from the bottom.

3. Check the width of the plane body against the width of the blade. Ideally the blade should protrude just a wee bit on either side. Either reduce the blade width by grinding or reduce the width of the body by sanding on a flat surface.

WHY IS A TIGHT MOUTH SO IMPORTANT?

As I said before, ideally we want the mouth thickness the same as the thickness of the shaving. Why? Quite simple really. If we have an area ahead of the shaving that is not supported by the sole of the plane, in other words, an open mouth, the likeliness of tear out is greatly increased.

HOW AM I SUPPOSED TO ADJUST THE BLADE ON THIS THING?

Place the blade in the plane and let the wedge sit loosely in its position. Now rest the plane on some wood and have the blade just touch the surface of the board. Gently tap the wedge into place with a small hammer. Now give the plane a try and it should make the finest shavings. To bring the plane into a deeper cut, gently tapping on the toe (the front) will bring the blade forward. The cutting depth of the iron can also be controlled by tapping it downward. This approach is more direct and for fine adjustments I prefer tapping the toe.
Some prefer to sight the cutting depth from the back of the plane; I prefer to do it from the front. Tilt the plane up until you are looking directly along the sole's surface. The cutting edge should be just above that surface and parallel to it.

If the cut is too aggressive, tap gently on the back of the plane to vibrate the iron to a less coarse cut. To back the iron out completely, tap a bit harder. Hold the plane with your palm under the iron to keep it in place when the wedge loosens.

With a little practice, you will be adjusting this plane to cut beautiful shavings in less time than possible with a metal plane that has all the bells and whistles! Don't believe me? Give it some time and dedication….
An added benefit of your wooden plane is that it slides over the surface with much less friction than a metal-bodied plane. A little bees wax rubbed on the sole will reduce friction even more, and it smells good!
Off course, wooden planes don't rust either….

FINISHING.

I prefer a simple coat or 2 of boiled linseed oil, followed by some wax the next day. Bright finishes do not belong on working planes. Save that for the show plane!

CRANKINESS.

Crankiness in a wooden plane is most commonly due to a high spot or bump behind the iron. It may show itself in at least two ways: If the iron grabs as you start the cut and then skips when the planes is entirely on the surface, check the area directly behind the iron. Use a straight edge and check across the plane's width and along its length. 
When it seems that either one corner of the iron or the other persists to dig in, suspect a bump! (I'm assuming the iron is evenly and properly set…)

THE WEIGHT OF THE PLANE.

Proponents of metal planes site their weight as a big plus for better planing. True, but we can do something about that! Counter bore some holes into the section ahead of the iron and glue in lead weights or even lead shot. If the holes are plugged and pared flush, it will hardly be noticeable.

*Once you have the frog out of its throat, your newly created instrument can be singing!*

That is the end of my song and I thank the LJ's who were playing with! If you have any problems, please let me know and I'll do my best to help.

I trust my little blog will inspire many more LJ's to take up the very satisfying pastime of building their own plane.

Yours in sawdust


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

woodspark said:


> *Tune me finely...but how do I adjust the iron?*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


thank´s for the song on a nice melodi Div 
it has been a pleassure to read and follow this blogserie
thank you for takeing the time to share this and your thoughts with us 
I´m sorry I haven´t commented before and only had them favorited fo future use 
but I have to re-read them again since so much slipped in the one ear and out of the other 
before I cuold close the gate …. was a werd week last week … can´t remember anything from it 
so I look forward to read it again in this week …. expecting a lot less stress on the job 
and little shoptime …. just got a broken blade and the iron nose from a noseplane back from a welder … a freind seems to me he made a pretty good job on them …. so now they are going back in the old planes again

have a great evening 
take care
Dennis


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

woodspark said:


> *Tune me finely...but how do I adjust the iron?*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks again for the blog. It is a great series. I hope it inspires a bunch of folks to do some experimenting.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

woodspark said:


> *Tune me finely...but how do I adjust the iron?*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Hi there my dear brother,
It hs been a wonderful tour with you, and I have finshed the first of three planes as you know. I have two more on the table, one more low angle, but plenty of improvemnets and one like yours just so I feel I have tryed then all. It has been a very learning process, and I'm sure I will make many planes in the future, both shoulder planes and also Krenov types.
And yes I agree it is even easier to set a wooden plane than a metal plane when we know how and have a little training.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## woodspark (May 8, 2010)

woodspark said:


> *Tune me finely...but how do I adjust the iron?*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Hey Dennis! Hope you get enough shop time soon. Maybe you can even find some time to make a plane as well. Take it easy!

Wayne, it's been a pleasure! I too hope more LJ's will try their hand at making planes.

Mafe, hello brother in the North! Yes, this shoulder plane tour has been fun. Out of curiosity, I wonder about your fascination with low angle planes? Ah, yes, just for fun! I have limited use for low angle which is mostly just for end grain.
Next up is a high angle(maybe even more than 50 degrees) wooden smoother. I need one for wavy and difficult grain as most tropical hardwoods have. Here is the fun bit: The problem with all wooden planes is enlargment of the mouth over time. As the sole wears down, the mouth opens up.
SO, I have one on the drawing board that has an adjustable mouth. It means I can keep the mouth tight!
Maybe you want to play with…..!!!???
Take care up there…


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

woodspark said:


> *Tune me finely...but how do I adjust the iron?*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


do you meen one with a tearingwedge to knock down from top of the plane 
or one with ajusteble mouth like on a metal blockplane  sliding the bottom infront of the blade
back and foth

one of my future dreams is to try making a few ww tools incl. planes 

Dennis


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## woodspark (May 8, 2010)

woodspark said:


> *Tune me finely...but how do I adjust the iron?*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Mads, you wondered about Marples? Here is a photo of the label. They were English tool makers and made fine chisels of which I have many including long paring chisels, gouges, even crank handle patternmakers.










Later, they went the same route as Stanley and made plastic handle ones:










The Jap style pull saw I recently got from the States. I see it is actually made in Japan! Who knows how these companies tie togrther these days!










Not the real deal, plastic handle, but it works OK:










I'm sure if you Google Marples there will be info. I haven't tried it yet…


----------



## woodspark (May 8, 2010)

woodspark said:


> *Tune me finely...but how do I adjust the iron?*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Dennis, top secret at this stage ;^) Keep your eyes on this space…
I hope you get to realize those ww tool dreams!


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

woodspark said:


> *Tune me finely...but how do I adjust the iron?*
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Hi Div.
I know Marples, but was surpriced they made a Japanese saw… But I think Marples are a brand now, not a tool company. That means they buy tools from all over the word and just put their own brand on it.
Acually it all started like that in England a long time ago, that small workshops delivered to large companys so it is kind of a circle, except today the brands have the world as their play ground.
I will find it fun to build another plane with you, I expect 25 vintage plane irons and caps to arrive friday with Caroline, so there are plenty of steel. I have a extra no 4 that I was planning to rebuild into a 50 degree, but I can make both, no problem it will just be doubble fun.
My passion for the low angel planes are as you say: 'just for fun', I have a soft spot for these, they are more elegant, more feminine than the 45 degrees.
Today I have been working on giving a new hardwood sole to a old English wood plane, this has been great fun.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## BigTiny (Jun 29, 2010)

woodspark said:


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Hi Div.

Thank you very much for the clear, detailed instructions. If my back trouble allows me back in the shop, this is high on my to do list.


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## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

woodspark said:


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Hey Div,

Thank you so much for posting this series. I have always wanted one of these, and you have pushed me forward. I really hope that I get around to doing it. It really looks like fun.

Again, just an awesome job,
Steve


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## lanwater (May 14, 2010)

woodspark said:


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I want to say thank you for posting this series of blog. It is full of information and great pictures.

I will definitely come handy when I start on my shoulder plane.


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## Schwieb (Dec 3, 2008)

woodspark said:


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Just a really great job on this blog, Div. Today I go looking for wood in NW Ohio.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

woodspark said:


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And I love the old Marples box wood chisels by the way!


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## woodspark (May 8, 2010)

woodspark said:


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Big Tiny, I sincerely hope your back troubles ease up so you can get shop time. Hang in there!

SPalm. Steve, it was a pleasure, especially if it can help to push you forward, as you say.

Ianwater, no problem. I hope you can start soon!

Schwieb. Thanks Ken. Let there be some beautiful pieces waiting for you!

Mafe, me too! They are my favorites and I work with a Marple chisel every day.


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## KentS (May 27, 2009)

woodspark said:


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Great blog. There is a lot of useful information you have shared.

Thanks


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

woodspark said:


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div
i didn't follow the instructions completely

just kind of winged it

first ever

















it will be a while 
before i catch up to you and mads

but you two sure inspire


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

woodspark said:


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Hi David,
That is really cool, 'the sufer plane' I think must be a prober name.
You have combined the hand plane and the chisel planes tutorials into one.
Way to go, and what is that pattern in the back, like a box?
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

woodspark said:


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good eye mads

that is a box
almost finished
i cleaned some of the shop finally

and old unfinished work 
was revealed

so off to the shop i go 
hi ho


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

woodspark said:


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Ahhh it reminded me also of the door with the bird you now use for table.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## woodspark (May 8, 2010)

woodspark said:


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David, if we all just followed instructions to the T, nothing creative will ever happen!

That is the most innovative chisel plane I've ever seen! I trust it works well.

Keep on winging!!! Hi ho, hi ho…..


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

woodspark said:


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it will be a while before i give up

my 4" 6" and 8" long bed jointers
and my 10" 13" and 20" planers

as i have been seeing on *berthas* dream plane post
there are so many different planes 
i would need 20 years to make them all 
(at 8 to 10 hour days)

the part that still needs refining is the angle
as i'm learning thru you two

it changes for different woods


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## woodspark (May 8, 2010)

woodspark said:


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Don't feel alone, even though I have MANY planes, my jointers ( 4", 8" and 12") and planers (13" and one ancient 20" Wadkins) remain firmly in place!

Yip, that angle thing changes for different woods and different applications. Did you get this:

•45º - Great for planing softwoods and North American hardwoods such as maple and walnut and such. It can handle figured maple well, but will have problems with figured cherry and walnut. This angle is the easiest to push/pull. 
•47° - A good compromise between good tear-out performance and effortless use. 
•50º - Great for North American hardwoods with some to lots of figure. It can handle pine, if needed, and can take on straight grained tropicals, too. This plane takes more effort than the 45 but is not hard to pull/push. 
•55º - For highly-figured American hardwoods and figured tropicals. This plane takes more effort to push/pull than the others, but easily gives good results on figured woods. 
•60º - For extremely hard-to-work woods and for use as a scraper plane. It takes the most effort to use this plane.

Below 45, mostly for endgrain or shooting boards.


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

woodspark said:


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thank div
i just cut the body at 45 deg.
but the plane blade has a taper
so it changed the angle

making it more like a scraper
than a plane

next time


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## woodspark (May 8, 2010)

woodspark said:


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You sure the chisel is bevel down? The taper can't be more than a few degrees. So bevel down plus the taper will be around 50 degrees or less. Should still plane OK if the blade is sharp…


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

woodspark said:


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Look at this link and see shaves that makes your eyes run:
http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?67949-Rain-Interspersed-with-Heavy-Showers-and-Occasional-Drizzle.
Amazing!
Big smile,
Mads


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## bilbaggins (Sep 11, 2011)

woodspark said:


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Great series! Thanks for all the effort.

It taught me quite a bit and I thought I was up to speed! Not so said Piglet! :O


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## jryaus (Sep 26, 2013)

woodspark said:


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Looks like it's been a while since anyone commented on here. I wanted to make my own shoulder plane and I found this great article. I followed the instructions almost to a tee. Thanks so much for an excellent article.

The body is walnut, the bottom is made from a child's building block (I have a whole set, great around the shop! who knew?) and the metal pins are from a coat hanger (I don't have a lot of money…)

The iron is a Pinnacle replacement blade for the Lie-Nielson medium shoulder plane (note I had to grind the top down so it would slide into the plane).

All in all, took a couple of days to make and fine tune, but now it works great. Definitely worth it!

Thanks for the tutorial!


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