# Is a lock miter the best for blanket chest corners?



## timberhead (Jan 25, 2020)

I have heeded some good advice in the power tool forum to get a router table set up, for use with a lock miter bit. Now I am curious as to if this would actually be the best way to go…

I would like to do real simple 45 degree corners, then just simply jazz them up (and strengthen), with several splined dovetails. No metal fasteners.

My question is two-fold, will the lock miter bit be the simplest way to make the corners, I am open to suggestions. Secondly, and this is why I am asking…it seems like it might be kind of difficult to router the end pieces as they (being shorter than front and back panels), would be the ones that need to be stood up against the fence, as opposed to flat on the table.

That's what is holding me up on the purchase of the new router station, so any insight would be appreciated.


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## ArtMann (Mar 1, 2016)

I don't know what you mean when you say "splined dovetails" but I am guessing you just mean splines. A lock miter joint is plenty strong enough without using splines, although they are a nice decorative element. If you use enough splines, a lock miter bit will not be necessary. A lock miter bit will not produce what I would call "real simple 45 degree corners" but that is what the joints will look like externally. I will caution you that a lock miter joint requires extreme setup precision and very flat and consistent stock. In general, I would say it is not a technique for a beginner, although you can be successful with great patience and care. It will be a challenge to feed the large pieces across the bit and it would be helpful to have a tall router table fence to facilitate that.


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## Axis39 (Jul 3, 2019)

The biggest problem with lock miter bits is that the stock has to be absolutely, positively flat as can be! Wide pieces, like for a blanket chest, can be more difficult. Keeping those big pieces flat can also be a bit of a chore in between machining to size and routing the ends.

If the pieces are dead flat, and you have your set up for the router table right, a lock miter joint is tight and very sturdy!

But, most larger casework is attached with biscuits, splines, mortice and tenons, dovetails or box joints. I find most of these easier to work with on larger/wider panels.


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## Manitario (Jul 4, 2010)

Mitred corners for wide cases can be tricky if there is any cupping or bowing of the stock. If you're planning to insert splines etc. for strength then there really is no need to do a lock mitre joint as well, it will be plenty strong without.

Of course half-blind dovetails would be the best choice for strength…


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## tomsteve (Jan 23, 2015)

this is a blanket chest i built about 1 1/2 years ago. i kept jointery simple and it has the "jazzed up a bit" look for jointery. the panels look m&t with a dowel pin through them but theyre assembled with pockethole screws. i just drilled some 3/8" holes through and made walnut plugs. then ends are also screwed and walnut plugs cover the screws.
https://www.lumberjocks.com/projects/394385


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## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

For blanket chest sides you don't need a lock anything joint, on a large expanse they will also prove very difficult to make. Traditionally if you want the joinery to be seen it would be a dovetail. Hidden then a dado to house the joining side, with glue, or in today's world a loose tenon from a Domino is more than sufficient.

The corners where a lock miter might be a good deal are going to mostly be drawers.

A lock miter edge offers a good amount of glue surface, so it can become a very strong joint. The thing about a lock miter is the set up time. It takes a lot of fussing to get them just right, and even if once done you cut a profile to assist in setting up a second time, it still isn't a try and go proposition.

There are many other router corner profiles that offer almost the same glue surface, that are easier to set up.

If I am making a drawer for show it will have dovetailed corners, for non show, or especially shop drawers I use a lock rabbet joint. I generally choose to do mine on the table saw, but they can just as quickly be done on the router table.

A how to video for first a standard lock rabbet, then what is known as a modified lock rabbet. On either positioning of the "lock" portion must be so the face is held locked in place. Otherwise it's a probably called an Oooops joint.


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

If you want the look of a dovetail spline, why not just use a real dovetail? The Milescraft Dovetail Template Master works well for me, though you do have to make some practice cuts to get it dialed in for tight fitting joints first. You can make multiple templates and join them together to make a template as wide as you want. For a large chest, you would probably want to skip every other slot for wider (1") tails so that it doesn't look too busy.

Of course you could also use large box joints. I used a very simply jig based upon one that I saw in a Woodsmith video that would be perfect for a large chest.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

I'm interpreting your "splined dovetails" to be cuts across the outside of the miter joint with a DT bit, then filled with a piece of wood machined to fit? If I'm correct and you do that it will be plenty strong. The lock miter (as good as it is) would be pretty tough to do with the long sides.


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## timberhead (Jan 25, 2020)

I do not mean splines in the most common definition, but rather am referring to the Tapered DT Spline System, from Infinity. It consists of a jig for cutting the tails, and a sled that produces a tapered spline. Looks really nice and if I can find an easy joint to make the corners, this is what I will use for décor.

I know for a fact how hard it is to move in completely flat and non-cupped boards across a machine. Another reason I would like to find a joint to do with the hand held router. They will unlikely be flat enough now that I think of it to come out perfect. Especially running one of the pieces on the vertical.

I had yes considered the pocket holes…and for sure liked the project shared!

Maybe the lock rabbet would work, still at the end of the day, we will be looking at endgrain to some degree, and I think same might go for dados.

Of course there is something to be said about the woodsmith vids…

And yes the spline system is used when you already have the case made (whichever joint), and you router across the tip of the 45* with a dt bit, and then insert the spline. I think it will look pretty cool, just need to determine the method for assembling the case. Thanks for the input and if anyone feels like it, go ahead and make the link to that system I saw at Infinity. I don't know how.


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## ibewjon (Oct 2, 2010)

Rocklerr has a new jig for drilling corners and inserting matching or contrasting dowels to strengthen and decorate the joint. It is on my someday list.


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Have done the corner joints with a Tongue and Groove….









To align the corner, for a glue up…


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

Locking miters are the way to go. They are by far and away better than simple miters in both strength and ease of assembly. I've used both, but I always go back to locking miters.

To avoid working with the whole panel, simply rout the stiles while they are individual components. While the locking miter bit is still set up, run some scrap through in both directions. That way you can cover the delicate edges of the stiles with a matching scrap block as you clamp the panels together.


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## timberhead (Jan 25, 2020)

Of course you could also use large box joints. I used a very simply jig based upon one that I saw I

This is fantastic! What kind of bit did you use?


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## timberhead (Jan 25, 2020)

pinto are you saying do the miter before the glue-up? Thats a good idea. How difficult to fence router an 18" tall board?


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

Look at Rich's and my posts on lock miters. Yes, the boards must be absolutely perfectly dimensioned to the same size which may be tough on tall boards. There are other options which will work as well and not be as difficult to set up especially if you've never done it before. They are great for boxes but maybe not as good for such a long length.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

On a blanket chest I would do pinned rabbets or box joints. Dovetails if I had a jig or the patience to cut them by hand (I don't). I'm a big fan of pinned rabbets, they are strong and easy.


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

It's really tough to beat the Milescraft dovetail Template Master jig for ease and cost for making dovetails. It took about 2 minutes per side for the small test in the picture and you can make and string several jigs together to handle wider boards. You can just cut out every other tooth from the jig for 1" tails. 









I do like the look of the pinned rabbits too.


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## timberhead (Jan 25, 2020)

As odd as this may sound to the tried and true traditionalists, I'm simply not going for the entirely DT'd "look". I want 4 dt splines on each corner, that is to say 2 on each of the boards in the glue-up.

I too, like the pinned rabbets. Is it at all possible to make a rabbet, lap, or even a dado cut with a handheld router?


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

> It's really tough to beat the Milescraft dovetail Template Master jig for ease and cost for making dovetails.
> 
> - Lazyman


That looks interesting. Gonna look into that. I watched a very well done hour long video on setting up the Porter Cable 4216 which basically talked me out of using it.

EDIT--I like this! Thanks. youtube vid


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

That video is for making a jig for the router table (method 2). It is actually much easier to make the jigs in its original configuration and in that config it can more easily handle large or heavy pieces. Here is the manual that shows the "method 1" setup. Methold 2 manual is here. Note that ~$50 probably sounds a little pricey for a plastic template, but it comes with 3 router bits. One straight bit for cutting out the templates and a dovetail and straight bit for cutting the joints.

I just cut dovetails this afternoon for a drawer for a tool cabinet I am making. It probably took me about 30 minutes to cut all 4 corners. I was going extra slow because it has been over a year since I've used it and wanted it to be precise. It takes longer to make the template and mount and fine tune it than it does to make a drawer but you only have to do that once. One of these days, I should probably write up a review.


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

> Note that ~$50 probably sounds a little pricey for a plastic template, but it comes with 3 router bits. One straight bit for cutting out the templates and a dovetail and straight bit for cutting the joints.
> - Lazyman


No. That sounds like a heck of a deal to me. I'm sold! Are they 1/2" or 1/4" shanks?


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

1/4"


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

> I too, like the pinned rabbets. Is it at all possible to make a rabbet, lap, or even a dado cut with a handheld router?
> 
> - timberhead


Absolutely, that's how I made them years back when I only had a handful of tools. Some people feel it's the preferred way to make them.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

> It's really tough to beat the Milescraft dovetail Template Master
> - Lazyman


I thought I'd seen it all but somehow missed that, kinda interesting.


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## Jeff28078 (Aug 27, 2009)

Not sure if they're still around but the Kehoe Jig is a dovetailed spline that holds tight from the fact that the dovetail splines are slightly tapered. There are reviews here on Lumberjocks. Makes an attractive joint because you can use contrasting woods or other material. I've had the kit for several years and use it on boxes.


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

The tapered dovetail spline jigs are on sale right now over at Infinity Tools. It looks like the discount is in the neighborhood of 20%.


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## 489tad (Feb 26, 2010)

removed.


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

OK. At the risk of sounding ignorant….what are you guys calling a *"pinned rabbet*"? There doesn't seem to be a definitive definition of it.


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

> OK. At the risk of sounding ignorant….what are you guys calling a *"pinned rabbet*"? There doesn t seem to be a definitive definition of it.
> 
> - Andybb


Do a search. It'll pop up. Take a look at the images for it and you'll recognize it. I've seen it used on drawers before. Not really a fan though. I guess it's all a matter of what you like that counts.


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

> OK. At the risk of sounding ignorant….what are you guys calling a *"pinned rabbet*"? There doesn t seem to be a definitive definition of it.
> 
> - Andybb
> 
> ...


I did search before but now I see what you mean. A rose by a few other names.


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

> I did search before but now I see what you mean. A rose by a few other names.
> 
> - Andybb


No, it's like this:


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