# Workbench top width



## mtnjak (Jan 16, 2010)

I spent part of my weekend planing my rough stock for my new workbench. The source of lumber for my bench is home sawn lumber using a chainsaw mill. The plan is to use all home sawn lumber for the project. I had originally calculated I should have enough maple from my rough stock to build a bench with a 24 inch wide top. However, this past week when I was jointing the faces of the stock there were about 4 pieces that were too badly twisted to use. My final finished width after all faces were jointed/planed measured 20 inches. I know some people could be happy with 20 inches but I'm thinking I'd still like to go with a 24 inch top. I can achieve this width by using some ash that I milled from a friend's tree this past winter (already at 10-12% MC). Although, I could also save the ash and use it for something else and just go with a 20 inch wide bench. Thoughts ? For those who have built workbenches, how wide is your bench?


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## KenBry (Sep 13, 2011)

Sounds like you WANT 24" anything less and you won't be happy. I'm building a bench right now and 24" is all i will settle for.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

you could always put a tool trough on the back side


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## mtnjak (Jan 16, 2010)

Well…I think the engineer in me wants 24". LOL When my "workbench journey" began 3 years ago I was originally thinking more like 30". Then more practical influences (like 2 Schwarz books) got to me and talked me back down from the 30 inch ledge so to speak. ; )


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## jmos (Nov 30, 2011)

You could do a split top, get a little more width with the same lumber (handy for clamping from below in the center and adding a planing stop, probably more uses I'm not aware of as they seem popular.)

Ultimately it's your preference. Some arguments I've seen for a more narrow bench it the ability to clamp a standard 24" cabinet on the bench and work both sides.

I ended up with 26", which is working well, but I don't really need the last 3-4", 22", or 20", would have worked fine. I think too much wider than 24" and you don't really utilize the area, but that's just my opinion.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

I'm going with 24 just because the math was easy Depending upon your work style, I don't see 20 inches being a problem. Like Jmos says, the split top is getting a lot of attention. I think that would be a great way to go.


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## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

I like to have several benches, but the one I use most is in the middle of my room where I can get completely around it. It measures 4×4 and is MDF with a couple very sturdy saw horses as a base which sit on some short nap carpeting. I can plane on it without it moving much. I build Adirondack chairs and it's nice to be able to work on it up on the bench, saves my back.


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## mtnjak (Jan 16, 2010)

John, in my 3 year journey of figuring out what kind of bench I want or need I had also kicked around the split top idea. But when it finally set in that I was getting ready to start making my bench I decided against a split top. Also I decided against want what everybody and their brother, sister and crazy uncle is building (aka a Roubo) just because everybody and their brother, sister and crazy uncle is doing it. I even thought about a walnut wrapped edge around the maple with fancy joints in the corners. I finally thought back to the original reason for making a bench in the first place - to build log furniture. Now granted, that's not the only thing I'll be doing with the bench (as 3 years of going off on different tangents can attest to). But I thought, why not keep it simple? Solid top all the way, common QR face vises at each end. Flush front. A little extra time to intall a sliding deadman. Done.

After that I can get on to using my new "tool" to build some much needed shop cabinets and (finally) a log bench I thought of building 3 or 4 years ago.


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## mtnjak (Jan 16, 2010)

Russell, my benchtop will actually be sitting (temporarily) on Shop Dog folding sawhorses (you can search the forums for this guy's design) I made last year until I get the base done.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

24" for mine. I vote to use the ash to get there!


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Tool bin may come in handy, here's one I like.


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## SnowyRiver (Nov 14, 2008)

I have a Sjoberg bench. Its 21 inches wide. I wish it was much wider. If you are going to use it for assembly, the wider the better if you have the room. I have never liked the tool trough on the side…I think it just takes up usable space.


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## mtnjak (Jan 16, 2010)

That 2 votes for using the ash (including my vote). Ash it is. I should have enough cut off length from the four 8-1/2 foot ash pieces (for a 6-foot bench) for a couple ash vise chops as well. Blonde chops, contrasting against an outer strip of walnut (both sides of the bench), two walnut strips in the middle, with blonde maple/ash everywhere else.

That's quite a unique looking Nicholson-esque bench Waho609. Is that yours?

I already have a wider multi-purpose 2×4/mdf tablesaw outfeed bench/table for basic assembly so a 24" workbench should work fine for it's purpose.

Thanks everyone for your input.


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## jaidee (Oct 16, 2010)

I don't think you'll see much difference in the Ash and Maple if they're kept natural. Of course you could dye/stain the Ash for contrast and use it as a decorative design touch. I agree with Snowy on the tool tray. Mine is more useful for collecting wood shavings and sawdust than anything else and limits me to working on one side of the bench for the most part. If I were to have a new bench and "had to have" a tool tray I think I'd put it in the middle of the bench with a removeable bottom panel, allowing more clamping versatility.


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## mtnjak (Jan 16, 2010)

I'm a fan of natural looking wood projects so I'll probably go with a wipe on Danish oil or BLO.

I like this reference from Schwarz regarding workbench design. While it may not suit everyone I think it has a lot of good information.

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/rules_for_workbenches


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

20" is fine for working boards and joinery. A Danish bench
is only 12-14" wide in the middle, with a tool tray in the
back and an additional extended surface made by the
shoulder vise. Not the best bench for sanding panels
and using a router if you are tall but for planing boards
and cutting joints the narrow working width is not
an impediment… then there's the narrow benches used
for building chairs.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

It'd be ash all day for me. I just don't run into it in these parts.


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## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

The worbench shown by Waho609 is the Moravian workbench

http://www.wkfinetools.com/tMaking/art/moravianBench/moravianBench-16.asp

The complete making is in 16 episodes starting here:
http://www.wkfinetools.com/tMaking/art/moravianBench/moravianBench-01.asp

(note the number at the end of URL; it makes it easy to jump to the desired episode by editing the URL in your browser)

The DIY tail vise is interesting (but a bit ugly).
see episodes 11 & 12


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## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

I asked the following question in "workbench smack down" in the "workspace forum" but without success.

*"how deep does a workbench top really needs to be?"*
to fuel the discussion :
- Mauricio's project if I am right is a 14" wide top.

- In its 2011 presentation of "the petite roubo" Chris Schwartz says something like : "the older I get, the lesser I want a deep bench" (third video). This is kind of funny as he has induced lots of people to build mega-workbenches. The "petite roubo" has a 20" deep top.

- The workbenches build for Paul Sellers "new legacy school for woodworking" have a top ''between 13" and 14" ''.
Of course the back skirt is coplanar (same level and parallel) with the top. This is necessary for planing big panels.
see : http://www.newlegacywoodworking.com/blog/

- The Moravian workbench hereabove has a top 13" wide. Will Myers says :
"The 13in wide top works out well too. I kind of had reservations about the narrow work surface but in use *I have noticed that 99% of the time I am only working on the front six inches*; so that concern was really unfounded. ". 
He has also taken care to have the back rim of the tool tray coplanar with the top.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Holy crap, there's no way I can imagine 13" as being optimal… Good on Mr. myers for pulling it off, and I mean that. RE: the Schwarz, he is the reason I went to 24" and I'm thankful for it. Had another narrow benchnwithntray, didn't like that combination. It's quite personal, really. But if you have the footprint for 24" depth, I'd recommend it.ncan it be less? Sure. But I'd think you'd struggle having more than the barest minimum of tools out at a time with a narrow bench without having a side surface to put them on OR you work entirely out of a chest.


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## rockindavan (Mar 8, 2011)

Mine is 28" and I'm glad I made it as deep as I did. I use it for dry fitting assemblies and a smaller depth would mean some bigger work would hang over the edge. If you can make it wider, I definitely would. You can always use deep throat clamps or holdfasts for smaller projects. Even at 28" I can still easily reach across the top.


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## rockindavan (Mar 8, 2011)

As much as I'm sure you would hate to sneak a couple bought maple boards into your top, I don't think anyone would chastise you. My top is maple and I love the look. I guess it boils down to whether you like ash or maple more, and if you choose maple, is a few non home sawn boards in the top going to drive you crazy for the next 30 years.


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## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

I understand some love the tool tray and some hate it.

The 13 " of the Moravian bench is without the tool tray, so as far as putting tools on the bench it must be more or less equivalent.
The Logan cabinet shoppe' Nicholson type bench has a split top where he inserts a planing stop. In that case, the width available for the board is only half of the total width.
http://logancabinetshoppe.com/blog/2011/05/episode-34/

the "heavily modified Paul Sellers bench" of KTMM has the same split top :
http://lumberjocks.com/KTMM/blog/29124

Mauricio's project seems similar to the French workbench in "woodwrigth's shop" with Roy Underhill
season 2007-2008

Last but not least is this :
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/60275
"The table is 5' long and a little over 1' wide."

The all idea is that, if you already have the lumber for only a 13" top and if you don't want to buy more, it seems you can nevertheless have a useful bench.

This is the essence of my question, not the total width but the board supporting width.
This question is related to MTNJAK saying :
"I had originally calculated I should have enough maple from my rough stock to build a bench with a 24 inch wide top. [...] My final finished width after all faces were jointed/planed measured 20 inches. "


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## Doss (Mar 14, 2012)

I thought I'd use a larger table for my first "workbench" and learned a lot of things because of it. Among them is too wide is not convenient for me. Also, and what seems most important to me… having multiple workstations (or workbenches) built differently would be awesome.

If you can have a few different ones, go that route. LOL

I'd experiment with a few set ups using plywood tops at the various widths to see which one is more usable for you. Do some clamp downs. Go through the motions of your common tasks, etc. Otherwise, the first bench you build may be the first one you sell after a few years. That's not a bad thing.

I think we just learn more with time and constantly performing certain tasks to figure out what we are really looking for and what we don't like.


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## mtnjak (Jan 16, 2010)

Actually ash and maple, grain patterns aside, are pretty similar in natural color. Which makes using the home milled ash mixed in a good choice for my mostly lighter colored top. I'll probably arrange each ash piece on either side of a walnut highlight piece for a more uniform look.


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## mtnjak (Jan 16, 2010)

And now it's 24". This may not be the exact layout of the boards yet but at least the desired width is there. Whatever the layout I think I'll place the ash next to the walnut since it's slightly darker than the maple for a transitional color change from maple to walnut.


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