# using copper sheets in a wood project



## grace123 (Nov 2, 2010)

I am wondering about using a roll of copper sheet I found in a drawer. It is 12×30 inches and it seems like I should be able to do something with it. This is my question: Can I attach the copper sheet to a piece of baltic birch plywood with some type of adhesive, and the use a scroll saw to cut two stacked pieces of wood and drop one piece into the other in a double bevel fashion. Then, if it is possible to do something like this, what type of finish will work with a combination of metal and wood? Thanks.


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## papadan (Mar 6, 2009)

You need to use epoxy to glue the copper to the wood. After cutting and assembly of your project you can use polyurethane for a finish. You don't want to use any water based glue or finish on the copper, unless you want it to turn with tarnish.


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## Cooler (Feb 3, 2016)

You can space brass escutcheon pins evenly around the perimeter along with the adhesive. Rough up the glue side of the copper before applying the glue and clean it well. I think construction adhesive applied with a toothed spreader will work fine but you will have to test. Clamp or weight it down. I would still use the escutcheon pins in brass as it is both decorative and functional.

You can also give it a hammered finish by spending a bit of time tapping away with a light ball peen hammer. You will need a thicker coat of adhesive for that.

escutcheon pins:
https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=1943

working with copper:
http://www.quickshipmetals.com/copper-buyers-guide.html

Hammered finish bar top:
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/f9/3d/83/f93d83aaece4826b3914d156733a035e.jpg

In Europe it is fairly common to see zinc topped kitchen counters. Zinc bends easily with no spring back and it is easily soldered in the corners with the lead being the same color as the sheet. The copper can be soldered to zinc for a decorative back splash.

Note that the copper will oxidize turning darker and then turning green (like the Statue of Liberty).


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## grace123 (Nov 2, 2010)

Thank you for your replies. I will let you know how things go. I am not even sure what to attempt with this copper, but it was an unexpected find in a corner of "my" shop.









The building that currently houses my shop began life as a garage and was built 102 years ago. Then it was converted to an apartment during World War II. Then it became a photo studio about 30 years later. Then it became a storage building. Then it had a minor fire. When the repairs for the firm were completed, it became my woodworking shop.

So finding the copper sheet was a hidden surprise. I hope to do something creative with it.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2017/01/13/my-living-room-wall-part-2/

Gary Katz has a cool article on using copper.


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

Contact cement will work. I covered a rather large fire place with copper sheets back in 1998. Guess what…....it's still there.


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## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

I've done a few metal jobs, I agree with contact cement. You can lacquer over the top also.


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## Cooler (Feb 3, 2016)

The local diner added stailess steel sheathing over old architectural elements. But they used a too light gage material and it looks all wavy as a result.

Bonding to a backer board should enable you to achieve a flat appearance.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Wow Grace. I'm sorry I don't have any input over your questions, but, I do appreciate your story here. Your shop has a lot of history I'm sure. Who knows what you may find concealed in there somewhere. Have fun. Work/Play safe.


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## woodbutcherbynight (Oct 21, 2011)

I have used copper with contact cement and covered it with oil based poly, works well.


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

During a remodel, I had to remove several hundred square feet of anti-UFO shielding from a JC Knighter's farm house. I tried to figure out what to do with it and came up with this. To make them, I just used 1/8" Masonite for backer. I cut the copper about 3/4" larger than the Masonite, then laid it over the Masonite with the corners slit. Then I folded it so about 3/8" went over each edge on the back. I held it there with construction adhesive, hot glue, whatever was available.

For my project, mounting the "bricks" on a wall [with Liquid Nails] secured the backs even better.

Just for reference, to clean all that copper, I bought a gallon of the cheapest hot sauce I could find. In seconds, it cleaned the copper.










Once the copper was clean, I hit it with a propane torch, which gave it all manner of wild and wonderful colors.


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## Dark_Lightning (Nov 20, 2009)

> During a remodel, I had to remove several hundred square feet of anti-UFO shielding from a JC Knighter s farm house. I tried to figure out what to do with it and came up with this. To make them, I just used 1/8" Masonite for backer. I cut the copper about 3/4" larger than the Masonite, then laid it over the Masonite with the corners slit. Then I folded it so about 3/8" went over each edge on the back. I held it there with construction adhesive, hot glue, whatever was available.
> 
> For my project, mounting the "bricks" on a wall [with Liquid Nails] secured the backs even better.
> 
> ...


Very cool! That's a ton of money in copper, right there.


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## woodbutcherbynight (Oct 21, 2011)

anti UFO shielding. LOL


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

Probably should have kept it, since it must have worked. After all, they were there to hire me.

[might have been Rainier lizards thought beams they were dealing with, either way, some kitchen, somewhere is shielded against them or UFO's.



> anti UFO shielding. LOL
> 
> - woodbutcherbynight


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## DirtyMike (Dec 6, 2015)

copper is so rewarding to work with.


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## Ripper70 (Nov 30, 2015)

I used copper flashing to adorn this picture frame made from an old barn beam I had laying around in my shop for a few years. Like Kelly above, before I nailed the copper to the frame I hit it with a propane torch to "age" and force the coloration of the material.

There are several other methods to patina copper such as using salt and ammonia and the results, though unpredictable, can be very effective.


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

Turned out REALLY nice Ripper.

I like DirtyMike's, but I'll leave that kind of work to him - too many moving parts for me (coordination seems to strike only once every two or three minutes).

I tried pressing some of the copper over a medallion used for corners around a door or window. From that, I can see a lot of potential for playing with that.


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## Dark_Lightning (Nov 20, 2009)

> I used copper flashing to adorn this picture frame made from an old barn beam I had laying around in my shop for a few years. Like Kelly above, before I nailed the copper to the frame I hit it with a propane torch to "age" and force the coloration of the material.
> 
> There are several other methods to patina copper such as using salt and ammonia and the results, though unpredictable, can be very effective.
> 
> ...


One can go here: http://www.sculptnouveau.com/

and find just about any color one would want to patinate copper with. I've used several of their products with excellent results.


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## runswithscissors (Nov 8, 2012)

The mention of a hammered finish reminded me of an episode on an old Brit sitcom, "Father Ted." The guys are priests who run a retirement home for old (and in some cases, defrocked) priests.

Ted borrows a car, and gets a little dent in the fender. So he gets a ball peen hammer-and you can guess the rest. When he's done, the entire car, top to bottom and end to end, has a hammered finish.


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## BilboBaggins (Feb 14, 2021)

*This one is for - grace123's*

For many years I "manufactured" hand beaten copper murals using pine board (pre MDF) & copper shim (.018-.024") laminated together using common contact adhesive… think major brands like Selleys/Norton etc.

This is a two part process in that you need to apply contact adhesive to both surfaces & allow them to set to "tack" i.e. dry to the touch. Then both pieces are carefully laid together. Usually they are rubbed down for better contact using a non abrasive implement like a rubber block or rubber hammer. No other "clamping"/weighing is required.

This is the exact same method used for gluing "plastic" laminates/melamines to wood surfaces. aka bench tops, cabinet doors etc etc…

My murals ranged in size from 24" x 24" to 24" x 48". They had flat areas & "hollow" areas which were beaten with ball pien hammers to create 3D dimension. Because the copper shim was malleable (soft) the copper could be shaped to the pine board form it was adhered to. So although they were beaten & worked with various tools for surface effects the copper didn't come "unglued".

I used contact adhesive for two reasons… 
1. It was very easy to apply & stayed in situ once the surfaces were married.
2. Most importantly… it stayed "workable" for a couple of hours while I did the "tooling" (beating & forming & incising surface decoration) without delaminating.

I have murals 30 years old that are still in fine condition without any delamination of concern. Considering they were only meant to last for 3-5 years till people got bored with them & threw them out, this is a great testimonial to good ole contact adhesive is it not???

I still occasionally make a mural & use the same tried & trued method.

I have investigated numerous "modern" glues and some have great characteristics but don't really do the job as well *for my application* as contact adhesives. I would add that my murals have large surface areas that require care in laying down the glue so there are no streaks etc. The copper shim is very soft & mars quite easily so a glue build up does show through to the surface. In some case that is fine but in most not what I want!

Anyway, that's what I do! If you need some further info, I'm happy to respond.


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## BilboBaggins (Feb 14, 2021)

> I ve done a few metal jobs, I agree with contact cement. You can lacquer over the top also.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

A side note on hot glue: I used some for an unimportant, pesky outdoor project. The hot summer sun of Eastern Washington shows using hot glue on any project subject to hot weather to be bad choice.


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