# Myrtlewood & Walnut to be a Coffee table, advise and ideas wanted



## GlennsGrandson (Jan 29, 2012)

I have a 42×18 x 1 3/8" piece of Myrtlewood and a 52×14 x 1 1/8" piece of Walnut with live edges that I'd like to make into a coffee table that stands at 18" high to the top of the table. The Myrtlewood is to be the top. I was thinking two wide (14") Walnut legs. I will use all the live edges on one side. I want to do a Wedged Mortise and Tenon joint for the legs. So the Walnut will be exposed through the top of the table with some Myrtlewood wedges to hold the joint (with glue) real sturdy. Typically two wide legs would sit parallel to each other, but what if I situated them perpendicular to each other, apart of course? (like this l - or l l ) If they were perpendicular it would really show off the Walnut form all angles.

I want to keep this table really clean and simple looking.

So my questions are:

Any ideas or tips on the Wedged M&T joinery, how wide should the tenon be, could/should i do two tenons on each leg?
Will I need a brace across the legs for stability?
Poly and paste wax for finishing? 
Finishing live edges? I've never done this.
Leg positioning opinions?
I'd like to use the knot on the Myrtlewood on the top, how do I fill the large cracks? (This knot doesn't go through the other side)









Both pieces together, sun bathing.









Myrtlewood









Walnut









Close up of the Myrtlewood (Salt and Pepper)









Close up of Walnut, this picture came out a little bright and doesn't show the nice darkness and variation of colors.









New Sketchup.

Thanks for looking, any and all answers/opinions are welcome!


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## KPW (Dec 1, 2011)

Hey Grant, I do have a couple of ideas on filling the knot. First thing is it depends on what your plannig for a stain or finnish on the top. But my idea is to make the knot a really dark color because it will look more natural that way. If it was me I would mix up some water base stainable filler with some dark brown aniline dye. Mash it into the hole as best you can. Might take a couple of applications. When it's dry sand it out and take a look. If it doesen't look like a solid knot, get out an artist brush and work the dye into the knot. Just a thought and good luck! Great piece of Myrtle by the way.


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

Just my opin….The perp leg config may leave the table a little "tippy". Sure would be artsy, but the practical side leads me to wonder.
The wedged thru tennons will be very attractive.
Great wood haul.
Bill


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## KPW (Dec 1, 2011)

Grant, Have you thought about maybe angling the legs in an open V configuration? Might have a little more stability but still pretty artsy. Or one perpendicular and one parallel?


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## GlennsGrandson (Jan 29, 2012)

Sorry about the late response, was on my honeymoon. Thanks LJs for the input, didn't think I'd get any.

I am planning on leaving it natural color. A more experienced friend of mine, Jim, recommends EPIFANES RUBBED EFFECT VARNISH thinned a bit for a finish, a bit expensive but this table may be worth it.

I have considered the parallel/perpendicular configuration but have decided against it. I agree that I will need more support so I think I'm going to do a shelf about half way up the leg (the wife's positioning), which would make it easier to vacuum under and useful for…things you would put on a coffee table shelf.. The other option that Jim gave me was to tuck a brace right up under the table top as it wouldn't be seen, but I think I'm leaning towards the shelf.

Jim also recommended WEST System 105 Epoxy Resin to fill the knot. I just started the sanding. Here's some Sketchup pics.

Any comments on how to attach the shelf would be good or other design ideas are welcome too. Anybody have any experience with the two aforementioned products.


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## GlennsGrandson (Jan 29, 2012)

DONE!
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/64550

Thanks for all the help and input!


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