# Grinder Sculpting



## JoeyG (Mar 19, 2011)

*the box*

Hello again everyone. I had such a great time doing the last blogs, I just had to do another. This as the name states, will be about sculpting a box with a right angle grinder. I have began using this method after seeing Andy's and Gary's wonderful, sculptures that we like to call boxes. I saw it and just new it was something I wanted to get good at. Some people look at chip carving or the spirit in the tree, I saw how with just a little grinding on a straight grain board that it can come to life with waves, curves, and new colors. It not only changes the characteristics of the wood it self, but it can change the shape of the box.

This is going to be a learning experience for me just as all my projects are. If they do not challenge you in some way, are they really worth doing?

For the first time, I will attempt to start with a pattern. Up till this point all of my sculpted boxes have been free hand, meaning I just start grinding on the wood until the shape is exposed and adjust as I need to. With this project I will lay out a simple (hopefully) design on the box and try to "force the wood" to do as I want. I put it this way because I normally use a more organic approach by just letting what feels right happen.

Back Ground:

The other day my wife was at our local beauty salon/spa and began showing the owner pictures of my boxes and she showed interest in having a couple on consignment. I asked my wife what she felt would fit in best. She replied "something earthy" . Well I quickly decided that I would not do a inlay this time. After chewing it over a few times, I decided on a sculpted box. I have begun laying out my design on paper and you will see that next episode.

This is just a test to see what I can achieve with a plain mahogany box and a right angle grinder.

Here is the box. Lid attached and ready to become something more.


















As you can see it is just a basic box. It has alternating maple/walnut miter keys. If you would like to see how I built this box it was part of the group I did with this blog http://lumberjocks.com/JoeyG/blog/26523 It was made the same way and at the same time as these.

As we all know Christmas is just over a week away and will affect the time I have in my shop. I will keep these coming as often as possible, but family comes first and this is the season to spend as much time with them as possible.

The next episode should come pretty quickly since it involves no real shop time. I just have to finalize my designs and then transfer them to the box. Thanks for joining me on a journey of discovery once again.

Until next time, 
Thanks for joining in
Joey


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## jaykaypur (Oct 22, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *the box*
> 
> Hello again everyone. I had such a great time doing the last blogs, I just had to do another. This as the name states, will be about sculpting a box with a right angle grinder. I have began using this method after seeing Andy's and Gary's wonderful, sculptures that we like to call boxes. I saw it and just new it was something I wanted to get good at. Some people look at chip carving or the spirit in the tree, I saw how with just a little grinding on a straight grain board that it can come to life with waves, curves, and new colors. It not only changes the characteristics of the wood it self, but it can change the shape of the box.
> 
> ...


Cant wait to see what this beautiful box becomes.


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## JonathanG (Jan 18, 2010)

JoeyG said:


> *the box*
> 
> Hello again everyone. I had such a great time doing the last blogs, I just had to do another. This as the name states, will be about sculpting a box with a right angle grinder. I have began using this method after seeing Andy's and Gary's wonderful, sculptures that we like to call boxes. I saw it and just new it was something I wanted to get good at. Some people look at chip carving or the spirit in the tree, I saw how with just a little grinding on a straight grain board that it can come to life with waves, curves, and new colors. It not only changes the characteristics of the wood it self, but it can change the shape of the box.
> 
> ...


Looking forward to this blog series. Thanks for taking the time to do it!


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## JoeyG (Mar 19, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *the box*
> 
> Hello again everyone. I had such a great time doing the last blogs, I just had to do another. This as the name states, will be about sculpting a box with a right angle grinder. I have began using this method after seeing Andy's and Gary's wonderful, sculptures that we like to call boxes. I saw it and just new it was something I wanted to get good at. Some people look at chip carving or the spirit in the tree, I saw how with just a little grinding on a straight grain board that it can come to life with waves, curves, and new colors. It not only changes the characteristics of the wood it self, but it can change the shape of the box.
> 
> ...


Thanks Jonathan, Welcome aboard. Any suggestions, questions, or ideas you may have are most welcome. I hope you enjoy the blog.


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## rustynails (Jun 23, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *the box*
> 
> Hello again everyone. I had such a great time doing the last blogs, I just had to do another. This as the name states, will be about sculpting a box with a right angle grinder. I have began using this method after seeing Andy's and Gary's wonderful, sculptures that we like to call boxes. I saw it and just new it was something I wanted to get good at. Some people look at chip carving or the spirit in the tree, I saw how with just a little grinding on a straight grain board that it can come to life with waves, curves, and new colors. It not only changes the characteristics of the wood it self, but it can change the shape of the box.
> 
> ...


Looking forward to this blog series as well.


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## davedarlene (May 17, 2009)

JoeyG said:


> *the box*
> 
> Hello again everyone. I had such a great time doing the last blogs, I just had to do another. This as the name states, will be about sculpting a box with a right angle grinder. I have began using this method after seeing Andy's and Gary's wonderful, sculptures that we like to call boxes. I saw it and just new it was something I wanted to get good at. Some people look at chip carving or the spirit in the tree, I saw how with just a little grinding on a straight grain board that it can come to life with waves, curves, and new colors. It not only changes the characteristics of the wood it self, but it can change the shape of the box.
> 
> ...


Looking forward to the rest of the series!


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## JoeyG (Mar 19, 2011)

*design and layout*

First lets start with the work horses. I picked these up at Klingspore. It's my local woodworking shop but I have also gotten them from the box stores. These are 50 and 80 grit. I will use the 80 on this project. The mahogany should be soft enough for it. I want to do one in purpleheart soon so I picked up the 50. If you haven't worked with purpleheart, it is one hard wood, but that is a blog for another time. LOL.









Here you see that I laid out a simple grid pattern over each side of the box. I found the center, then used the width of my square blade to mark the lines. I was only trying to give myself reference points for the lay out.


















I did a quick sketch on paper to get an idea of what I wanted it to look like. I just view the sketch and realized I also used it to take notes on, so I will not post that. LOL If anyone would like to see it, I will take another picture of it, with the notes cover. Telephone rings and you have to write on what ever is handy.

OK, so I have an idea of how I want it to look, I have the grid laid out, now it is time to pull out the french curves. I used them because it is hard to draw a smooth curve by hand.


















After getting the general idea on the box, I went back and adjusted everything until I was happy. You might be able to see my erased lines. It took a while to get what I wanted. You have to keep hinge pin placement in mind and also how it will wrap around the box. I have everything lining up as it goes around the corners. Each line represents where the peaks (or high ground) will be. the area in between will hopefully be the ground out valleys. I am going for a wavy look. With a little luck each will flow into the next. I also picked a spot for the handle you can see in the final picture. This is not set in stone, but must be done before the grinding starts. The inside of the box must also be finished and the lid set and hinge pins glues in. I went over all that in a past blog. If I can remember, I will include it here as well.



















Stayed tuned for the next episode. 
Joey


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## jaykaypur (Oct 22, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *design and layout*
> 
> First lets start with the work horses. I picked these up at Klingspore. It's my local woodworking shop but I have also gotten them from the box stores. These are 50 and 80 grit. I will use the 80 on this project. The mahogany should be soft enough for it. I want to do one in purpleheart soon so I picked up the 50. If you haven't worked with purpleheart, it is one hard wood, but that is a blog for another time. LOL.
> 
> ...


Thanks for doing this Joey. This is just like going to class!


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## JoeyG (Mar 19, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *design and layout*
> 
> First lets start with the work horses. I picked these up at Klingspore. It's my local woodworking shop but I have also gotten them from the box stores. These are 50 and 80 grit. I will use the 80 on this project. The mahogany should be soft enough for it. I want to do one in purpleheart soon so I picked up the 50. If you haven't worked with purpleheart, it is one hard wood, but that is a blog for another time. LOL.
> 
> ...


Your welcome!!! I hope I can pull it off. I am happy with the last two blogs I did. And I learned a lot about how to go about doing them. Hopefully the next episode will be up before Christmas. I glued up the handle a few mins ago. Trying to figure out how I want it to set. I have the hardest time coming up with handles.

I hope to see you using some of these methods soon.


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## harrywho (Jul 20, 2009)

JoeyG said:


> *design and layout*
> 
> First lets start with the work horses. I picked these up at Klingspore. It's my local woodworking shop but I have also gotten them from the box stores. These are 50 and 80 grit. I will use the 80 on this project. The mahogany should be soft enough for it. I want to do one in purpleheart soon so I picked up the 50. If you haven't worked with purpleheart, it is one hard wood, but that is a blog for another time. LOL.
> 
> ...


Looking forward to the rest of this. Thanks!


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## jaykaypur (Oct 22, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *design and layout*
> 
> First lets start with the work horses. I picked these up at Klingspore. It's my local woodworking shop but I have also gotten them from the box stores. These are 50 and 80 grit. I will use the 80 on this project. The mahogany should be soft enough for it. I want to do one in purpleheart soon so I picked up the 50. If you haven't worked with purpleheart, it is one hard wood, but that is a blog for another time. LOL.
> 
> ...


This might be too hard to do but if you have any more of the mahogany left over, could you somehow make/extend the handle almost like its a continuation of that part of the box lid? You have the lines pretty much lined up to do that.

Just a thought…............a hard thought but what the heck!


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## JoeyG (Mar 19, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *design and layout*
> 
> First lets start with the work horses. I picked these up at Klingspore. It's my local woodworking shop but I have also gotten them from the box stores. These are 50 and 80 grit. I will use the 80 on this project. The mahogany should be soft enough for it. I want to do one in purpleheart soon so I picked up the 50. If you haven't worked with purpleheart, it is one hard wood, but that is a blog for another time. LOL.
> 
> ...


I was thinking something in walnut and maple to put the miter keys together with the handle. This is what I have so far,



























This was just some pieces out of my scrap box. They are much bigger than anything I will need so I have the size to do a lot a lot of different things. Many times I have shaped the handle, drill the holes for the dowels, put in on the lid and decide I didn't like it. Hopefully this will be the answer the first time. I do have some of this same mahogany the box was made from, so if this doesn't work I will give that a go.


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## jaykaypur (Oct 22, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *design and layout*
> 
> First lets start with the work horses. I picked these up at Klingspore. It's my local woodworking shop but I have also gotten them from the box stores. These are 50 and 80 grit. I will use the 80 on this project. The mahogany should be soft enough for it. I want to do one in purpleheart soon so I picked up the 50. If you haven't worked with purpleheart, it is one hard wood, but that is a blog for another time. LOL.
> 
> ...


I am sure that whatever you decide to do it will be fine. As the saying goes….."Just do it!"


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## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

JoeyG said:


> *design and layout*
> 
> First lets start with the work horses. I picked these up at Klingspore. It's my local woodworking shop but I have also gotten them from the box stores. These are 50 and 80 grit. I will use the 80 on this project. The mahogany should be soft enough for it. I want to do one in purpleheart soon so I picked up the 50. If you haven't worked with purpleheart, it is one hard wood, but that is a blog for another time. LOL.
> 
> ...


Wow this is quite the process. I'm looking forward to the future posts to see how this turns out.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *design and layout*
> 
> First lets start with the work horses. I picked these up at Klingspore. It's my local woodworking shop but I have also gotten them from the box stores. These are 50 and 80 grit. I will use the 80 on this project. The mahogany should be soft enough for it. I want to do one in purpleheart soon so I picked up the 50. If you haven't worked with purpleheart, it is one hard wood, but that is a blog for another time. LOL.
> 
> ...


Thanks for doing this as I know it is a lot of extra work for you. I am anxiously awaiting to next installment!


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## JoeyG (Mar 19, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *design and layout*
> 
> First lets start with the work horses. I picked these up at Klingspore. It's my local woodworking shop but I have also gotten them from the box stores. These are 50 and 80 grit. I will use the 80 on this project. The mahogany should be soft enough for it. I want to do one in purpleheart soon so I picked up the 50. If you haven't worked with purpleheart, it is one hard wood, but that is a blog for another time. LOL.
> 
> ...


Thanks Betsy and gfadvm. It's not really a lot of extra work, it's just a lot of extra remembering. Not only do I have to remember that measurement I just took for the fifth time because I keep forgetting it, but I also have to remember to take pictures. LOL. The rest is just sitting down and typing out what I have done. I find I really enjoy the process. I get a zen kinda feeling as I try to find the correct words to explain what I am doing, just as I do in the shop when I find my groove. I have a hard time teaching as I do things because I am a hands on, it will take less time if I just do it myself kinda guy. Or I start talking and get back to work two hours later with my kids begging me to let them out of the shop, because they don't care where the wood came from, they just want to build something. LOL. Just as I am doing here.

I take great pleasure in sharing what I know and learn. And I hope you all share and learn just as much with me.

Thanks. Next episode will be up in a day or two. We will attack that lid and figure out what to do with the handle. Until next time, stay safe, and thank you.


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## lanwater (May 14, 2010)

JoeyG said:


> *design and layout*
> 
> First lets start with the work horses. I picked these up at Klingspore. It's my local woodworking shop but I have also gotten them from the box stores. These are 50 and 80 grit. I will use the 80 on this project. The mahogany should be soft enough for it. I want to do one in purpleheart soon so I picked up the 50. If you haven't worked with purpleheart, it is one hard wood, but that is a blog for another time. LOL.
> 
> ...


Thanks Joey,

I thought all I have to do is get out my angle grinder and just hack away…

Well, I now see that some carefull planing is a better approach.
I like how you devided the box with a grid. The french curve? I never associated that with this process.

Lots of learning Joey.

Thanks!


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## JoeyG (Mar 19, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *design and layout*
> 
> First lets start with the work horses. I picked these up at Klingspore. It's my local woodworking shop but I have also gotten them from the box stores. These are 50 and 80 grit. I will use the 80 on this project. The mahogany should be soft enough for it. I want to do one in purpleheart soon so I picked up the 50. If you haven't worked with purpleheart, it is one hard wood, but that is a blog for another time. LOL.
> 
> ...


That is all I have done up to this point. But I figured I would try a more refined approach with the blog. If I blow it I do it in front of you all. LOl. It will keep me on my toes. I also figured having a real plan and idea of what I wanted it to look like would help me explain what I was doing. Since I can't do the grinding and take photos at the same time, this gives me a point I am working to. Hopefully it will work.

The grid look has given me a few ideas, but I will save them for now.

I used the french curve to help me lines flow smoothly. On my drawing, which I'll get another pic for you guys, my curves were jerky. I wanted smooth curves to start with. Not the I can grind a smooth curve, but it looks pretty before I get started. LOL


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## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

JoeyG said:


> *design and layout*
> 
> First lets start with the work horses. I picked these up at Klingspore. It's my local woodworking shop but I have also gotten them from the box stores. These are 50 and 80 grit. I will use the 80 on this project. The mahogany should be soft enough for it. I want to do one in purpleheart soon so I picked up the 50. If you haven't worked with purpleheart, it is one hard wood, but that is a blog for another time. LOL.
> 
> ...


This is going top be interesting and I appreciate you putting this up.

helluvawreck

https://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


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## JoeyG (Mar 19, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *design and layout*
> 
> First lets start with the work horses. I picked these up at Klingspore. It's my local woodworking shop but I have also gotten them from the box stores. These are 50 and 80 grit. I will use the 80 on this project. The mahogany should be soft enough for it. I want to do one in purpleheart soon so I picked up the 50. If you haven't worked with purpleheart, it is one hard wood, but that is a blog for another time. LOL.
> 
> ...


Here is that picture of my first sketch. It's only purpose was to help me visualize what I wanted the finished box to look like. I'm sorry it took me so long to add it.










I wish everyone a Merry Christmas and we shall continue this adventure next year. Stay safe,
Joey


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## JonathanG (Jan 18, 2010)

JoeyG said:


> *design and layout*
> 
> First lets start with the work horses. I picked these up at Klingspore. It's my local woodworking shop but I have also gotten them from the box stores. These are 50 and 80 grit. I will use the 80 on this project. The mahogany should be soft enough for it. I want to do one in purpleheart soon so I picked up the 50. If you haven't worked with purpleheart, it is one hard wood, but that is a blog for another time. LOL.
> 
> ...


This looks like a great start! I also appreciate the thought you put into the handle in tying the miter keys in as well. A simple detail like that can make all the difference.


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## dub560 (Jun 4, 2010)

JoeyG said:


> *design and layout*
> 
> First lets start with the work horses. I picked these up at Klingspore. It's my local woodworking shop but I have also gotten them from the box stores. These are 50 and 80 grit. I will use the 80 on this project. The mahogany should be soft enough for it. I want to do one in purpleheart soon so I picked up the 50. If you haven't worked with purpleheart, it is one hard wood, but that is a blog for another time. LOL.
> 
> ...


sweet blog..i'll try one of these pretty soon


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## JoeyG (Mar 19, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *design and layout*
> 
> First lets start with the work horses. I picked these up at Klingspore. It's my local woodworking shop but I have also gotten them from the box stores. These are 50 and 80 grit. I will use the 80 on this project. The mahogany should be soft enough for it. I want to do one in purpleheart soon so I picked up the 50. If you haven't worked with purpleheart, it is one hard wood, but that is a blog for another time. LOL.
> 
> ...


Thanks. I will have a new one coming up soon. They are a lot of fun, but don't forget a respirator and eye protection.


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## JoeyG (Mar 19, 2011)

*setting the handle and lid*

The last thing I posted was the handle blank all glued and clamped up. It seems like it has been forever since I have worked on this project.

Here we have the lid trimmed up so it fits and opens properly. I do this before I add the handle, it makes things a lot easier for me.









Then it's over to the jointer to square up the handle.









The handle ended up about 1×1. I ripped to 3/8 and then found where I wanted it to sit on the lid. I then matched my outline for the sculpting from the box, and cut the ends with my jig saw.









I then glued and clamped it in place, flush with the top of the lid.



















Next I set the lid back on it's pins and mark where the handle sits on the box. I then made the notch for the handle to sit in and sanded it up. After I was happy with the look, I sanded up the sides and bottom of the lid and the inside of the box and gave them a couple coats of polyacrylic.


















I have used CA glue to set the hinge pins and tomorrow we begin the fun and messy job of grinding the box to shape.

Thanks for taking a look,


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## jaykaypur (Oct 22, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *setting the handle and lid*
> 
> The last thing I posted was the handle blank all glued and clamped up. It seems like it has been forever since I have worked on this project.
> 
> ...


Very nicely done. Looking forward to the next step.


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## JoeyG (Mar 19, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *setting the handle and lid*
> 
> The last thing I posted was the handle blank all glued and clamped up. It seems like it has been forever since I have worked on this project.
> 
> ...


The next one it the fun one. I hope to get to it tomorrow and have the next episode up tomorrow night.


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## retiredandtired (Mar 10, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *setting the handle and lid*
> 
> The last thing I posted was the handle blank all glued and clamped up. It seems like it has been forever since I have worked on this project.
> 
> ...


GREAT WORK.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *setting the handle and lid*
> 
> The last thing I posted was the handle blank all glued and clamped up. It seems like it has been forever since I have worked on this project.
> 
> ...


Looking good so far. Really looking forward to the sculpting/grinding. A video of all the dust would be great!


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## lanwater (May 14, 2010)

JoeyG said:


> *setting the handle and lid*
> 
> The last thing I posted was the handle blank all glued and clamped up. It seems like it has been forever since I have worked on this project.
> 
> ...


It's shapping up pretty god Joey.

The step by step and the wonderfull pictures make me feel part of the building process.


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## JoeyG (Mar 19, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *setting the handle and lid*
> 
> The last thing I posted was the handle blank all glued and clamped up. It seems like it has been forever since I have worked on this project.
> 
> ...


I wish I could do a video. I usually work alone except when I'm working with my kids and I don't want them exposed to all that dust. Maybe I can come up with a stand for my camera and add it to the blog at a latter date. I would like to see what it looks like from a different perspective as well.
Anyway, thanks for the kind words. I'll be back later with the grinding.


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## JoeyG (Mar 19, 2011)

*The Grinding*

Well my shop is now a wreck, my eyes are full of dust and I had a blast. LOL.

Lets start with the box and grinder. As you can see I drew in the lines on the handle to match up to the box.









In the next pictures you will see the grinding process. I thought long and hard about making a video and decided that there wasn't really a way for me to do it at this time. Maybe I will revisit the idea in the future.

I start at my line and gentle pull into the center. I then go to the next line and pull to the center again, creating a hollow. I try to just take a little at a time. I must also mention that you need to keep in mind the position of the hinge pins and the dado for the bottom. Going to deep at either place will result in a pretty box for the shop. LOL. When I drew my layout onto the box, I put the hinge pins in the center of the hollows and had to redraw them before I started grinding. The more "beef" you can leave around the pins, the stronger the lid will be. Well here are the pictures you have been waiting for. I hope they help show the process I use to make this type of box. I know a lot of others have perfected this style box, like Andy and Greg, and I am still working to reach their level, but I learn with each box and have fun doing it. I hope this helps you to give it a try.

















































































The last picture is a reminder to use your common sense. Grinding throws up a lot of dust and is loud. I use, safety glasses and will be investing in goggles soon because of the dust build up in my eyes. I would also recommend a respirator over a dust mask but use something. You don't want to be breathing that stuff. Finally don't forget the ear protection. The grinders are loud and dangerous and should be respected in every aspect of their use. It is also not recommended to take off the guard. You can see in the picture that I have, but beware, it does make this more dangerous than it all ready is.

Finally as you will see in my pictures, make sure the box is secured. The grinder can and will sling the box across the shop if it is not. At first I clamped it down, but having to move it around in all kinds of different positions, it is not always possible to clamp the box to the work surface. A vise may work but not having one, I found a different way. I use blocks that are screwed to a piece of plywood that is clamped to my table saw. I can quickly unscrew the blocks and move them as I need to.

If I left anything out, please ask and I will try to answer. Or if you can think of a different or better way to make any of these steps safer or easier my ears are open.

Next will be lots and lots of sanding. The not so fun part. LOL. I have found a "zen" place I go in my mind when sanding and it has become like a meditative exercise. It helps when there is hours of sanding to do, but more on that next episode.

As always, thanks for joining me on the journey.

See ya next time
Joey


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## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

JoeyG said:


> *The Grinding*
> 
> Well my shop is now a wreck, my eyes are full of dust and I had a blast. LOL.
> 
> ...


Looks like you are meaking great progress!

This is a very clear description - a well written blog.

Thanks for sharing.


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## jaykaypur (Oct 22, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *The Grinding*
> 
> Well my shop is now a wreck, my eyes are full of dust and I had a blast. LOL.
> 
> ...


Nice work and easy to understand. Do you have any preferences on the type grinding wheels you use? Thanks and looking forward to the next step.


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## JoeyG (Mar 19, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *The Grinding*
> 
> Well my shop is now a wreck, my eyes are full of dust and I had a blast. LOL.
> 
> ...


Hey jaykaypur, I posted a picture back in episode 2 of the ones I use. On this one I am using a old one. They have a corner that tends to cut a hard edge when they are new. Once the get used a little they soften up and it's easier to avoid hard cuts and keep the curves smooth. If that makes any sense. As far as brands, I have used a few different, but can't really tell a difference in performance.

Thanks you Steve. I am trying to achieve a easy to follow format, without it feeling like a text book. I hope I am getting there. I figured by this time next year I should have this blog thing down. LOL


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## Sanman (Dec 12, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *The Grinding*
> 
> Well my shop is now a wreck, my eyes are full of dust and I had a blast. LOL.
> 
> ...


WOW, great work


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## lanwater (May 14, 2010)

JoeyG said:


> *The Grinding*
> 
> Well my shop is now a wreck, my eyes are full of dust and I had a blast. LOL.
> 
> ...


Nice to see grinding in action.

I have to trty that someday.


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## amagineer (Apr 16, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *The Grinding*
> 
> Well my shop is now a wreck, my eyes are full of dust and I had a blast. LOL.
> 
> ...


Joey; Thanks for the grinding lesson. I made a sculptured cross out of purpleheart using a dremel tool and enjoyed it so much, you have inspired me to go bigger and buy a grinder to create something larger.
-Don


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *The Grinding*
> 
> Well my shop is now a wreck, my eyes are full of dust and I had a blast. LOL.
> 
> ...


Good job Joey (on both the box and the blog). You appear well on the way to a Greg box. I assume you cut the scallops on the bottom edge with a bandsaw before you started grinding?


----------



## JoeyG (Mar 19, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *The Grinding*
> 
> Well my shop is now a wreck, my eyes are full of dust and I had a blast. LOL.
> 
> ...


I am glad the blog is clear and inspiring. Amagineer, I look forward to seeing what you can create once you get a grinder. It's a lot of fun.

@ gfadvm, I cut the bottom detail the same time I did the Ambrosia-birdseye boxes, you can see it here; http://lumberjocks.com/JoeyG/blog/26557 I used a jig saw and a drum sander in my drill press. When I was making my Christmas boxes I made a couple extra for last minute orders and had this one left over. A bandsaw is on my to get list but at the moment it will have to wait and I have to do things the hard way.

Thanks to you all for the kind words, I hope everyone is learning a little and will give this a try. It is a lot of fun, and who doesn't like to make a big mess?


----------



## rance (Sep 30, 2009)

JoeyG said:


> *The Grinding*
> 
> Well my shop is now a wreck, my eyes are full of dust and I had a blast. LOL.
> 
> ...


Joey, It looks like on of those carving vises could be useful with this kind of work. Nice blog.


----------



## JoeyG (Mar 19, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *The Grinding*
> 
> Well my shop is now a wreck, my eyes are full of dust and I had a blast. LOL.
> 
> ...


Thanks rance. I never thought about a carving vise. I could see where that could possible be useful. I may have to look into them. Thanks for the idea.

Joey


----------



## JonathanG (Jan 18, 2010)

JoeyG said:


> *The Grinding*
> 
> Well my shop is now a wreck, my eyes are full of dust and I had a blast. LOL.
> 
> ...


Joey, Great pictures of this box coming to life. You are fleshing it out nicely. Again, thanks for taking all the extra time to get the in-progress pictures, as well as the time to write the blog. I'm enjoying reading this series, even if I am a bit late to the show!


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

JoeyG said:


> *The Grinding*
> 
> Well my shop is now a wreck, my eyes are full of dust and I had a blast. LOL.
> 
> ...


Thanks for your sharing and narrating your learning process.


----------



## JoeyG (Mar 19, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *The Grinding*
> 
> Well my shop is now a wreck, my eyes are full of dust and I had a blast. LOL.
> 
> ...


Your welcome. I am happy that your guys enjoyed it. Thanks for taking a look and commenting.


----------



## JoeyG (Mar 19, 2011)

*Sanding*

Here is a quick couple of pictures. I am not going to get to in depth with the sanding. Basically all I did was put 80 grit on my random orbital sander(ROS) and used the edge to sand out the deep scratches form the grinder. After that I went over it by hand with 80 grit getting out the swirl marks from the ROS. After I got out most of those I took a clean rag and clean water and dampened the box to help raise the grain. Next I will work my way through 100, 120, 150, 180, and 220. I haven't decided on what finish I am going to use yet, so when I get to that point I'll post another episode. I have about 1.5 hours at this point. I will try to keep track how long I take sanding to give you an idea. Usually when someone asks how long it takes to sand, I simple respond with it takes as long as it takes. LOL




























That last picture looks like the wet side is flat, it is just the angle that I took the picture. I just wanted a quick pic and was not real concerned with how good they were.

See you next episode.

Joey


----------



## jaykaypur (Oct 22, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *Sanding*
> 
> Here is a quick couple of pictures. I am not going to get to in depth with the sanding. Basically all I did was put 80 grit on my random orbital sander(ROS) and used the edge to sand out the deep scratches form the grinder. After that I went over it by hand with 80 grit getting out the swirl marks from the ROS. After I got out most of those I took a clean rag and clean water and dampened the box to help raise the grain. Next I will work my way through 100, 120, 150, 180, and 220. I haven't decided on what finish I am going to use yet, so when I get to that point I'll post another episode. I have about 1.5 hours at this point. I will try to keep track how long I take sanding to give you an idea. Usually when someone asks how long it takes to sand, I simple respond with it takes as long as it takes. LOL
> 
> ...


Very nice job. At the second stage of sanding, do you hand sand or still use the ROS ?

by the way…Happy New Year


----------



## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *Sanding*
> 
> Here is a quick couple of pictures. I am not going to get to in depth with the sanding. Basically all I did was put 80 grit on my random orbital sander(ROS) and used the edge to sand out the deep scratches form the grinder. After that I went over it by hand with 80 grit getting out the swirl marks from the ROS. After I got out most of those I took a clean rag and clean water and dampened the box to help raise the grain. Next I will work my way through 100, 120, 150, 180, and 220. I haven't decided on what finish I am going to use yet, so when I get to that point I'll post another episode. I have about 1.5 hours at this point. I will try to keep track how long I take sanding to give you an idea. Usually when someone asks how long it takes to sand, I simple respond with it takes as long as it takes. LOL
> 
> ...


Joey, That is getting vey nice! I would skip a few of the grits as I think it is unnecessary. I usually go from 80 to 120,180,240,320,400,600 using the Abranet discs on my ROS. It goes much quicker with the Abranet. I can't say enough good things about this stuff! This sanding sequence will actually put a shine on unfinished oak.


----------



## JoeyG (Mar 19, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *Sanding*
> 
> Here is a quick couple of pictures. I am not going to get to in depth with the sanding. Basically all I did was put 80 grit on my random orbital sander(ROS) and used the edge to sand out the deep scratches form the grinder. After that I went over it by hand with 80 grit getting out the swirl marks from the ROS. After I got out most of those I took a clean rag and clean water and dampened the box to help raise the grain. Next I will work my way through 100, 120, 150, 180, and 220. I haven't decided on what finish I am going to use yet, so when I get to that point I'll post another episode. I have about 1.5 hours at this point. I will try to keep track how long I take sanding to give you an idea. Usually when someone asks how long it takes to sand, I simple respond with it takes as long as it takes. LOL
> 
> ...


@jaykaypar, I only use the ROS to get rid of the grinder marks. I used it all the way to 220 on a couple boxes but was not happy with how the finish laid down, so I went back to the old way. Once the grinder marks are out I do it all by hand, mainly because I can see and feel what I am doing better. And I get a better finish with hand sanding.

@gfadvm, I have not used the Abranet discs yet but have heard great things about them and plan to pick some up the next time I need to buy some. As for the grits, I don't usually go past 220 until after the first coat of finish. If I am using a oil finish, I will go to 400. It really depends on the wood. I don't like to take maple past 180 since it can cause adhesion problems. I believe a lot of lacquer companies recommend not going past 120.

I may have to pick up some 600 to see if it makes a difference in the finish, but I would be surprised to see any. At least not in what I am doing. Sitting here thinking about it, I do see one instance where your process may really help me. I do a lot of epoxy inlays and this may really add a extra dimension to those. I will have to give it a try and let you know. I see that you leave out the 150 in you count down. I am always temped to do this and the only real reason for it is that when you skip one you have to sand more with the next. With the orbital it's not such a big deal, but it saves a bit of elbow grease when sanding by hand. Thanks for the tip on the Abranet, and your grit count. I will be trying it soon.


----------



## vonhagen (Dec 5, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *Sanding*
> 
> Here is a quick couple of pictures. I am not going to get to in depth with the sanding. Basically all I did was put 80 grit on my random orbital sander(ROS) and used the edge to sand out the deep scratches form the grinder. After that I went over it by hand with 80 grit getting out the swirl marks from the ROS. After I got out most of those I took a clean rag and clean water and dampened the box to help raise the grain. Next I will work my way through 100, 120, 150, 180, and 220. I haven't decided on what finish I am going to use yet, so when I get to that point I'll post another episode. I have about 1.5 hours at this point. I will try to keep track how long I take sanding to give you an idea. Usually when someone asks how long it takes to sand, I simple respond with it takes as long as it takes. LOL
> 
> ...


wow this is cool!!!!


----------



## JoeyG (Mar 19, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *Sanding*
> 
> Here is a quick couple of pictures. I am not going to get to in depth with the sanding. Basically all I did was put 80 grit on my random orbital sander(ROS) and used the edge to sand out the deep scratches form the grinder. After that I went over it by hand with 80 grit getting out the swirl marks from the ROS. After I got out most of those I took a clean rag and clean water and dampened the box to help raise the grain. Next I will work my way through 100, 120, 150, 180, and 220. I haven't decided on what finish I am going to use yet, so when I get to that point I'll post another episode. I have about 1.5 hours at this point. I will try to keep track how long I take sanding to give you an idea. Usually when someone asks how long it takes to sand, I simple respond with it takes as long as it takes. LOL
> 
> ...


Thanks vonhagen,


----------



## lanwater (May 14, 2010)

JoeyG said:


> *Sanding*
> 
> Here is a quick couple of pictures. I am not going to get to in depth with the sanding. Basically all I did was put 80 grit on my random orbital sander(ROS) and used the edge to sand out the deep scratches form the grinder. After that I went over it by hand with 80 grit getting out the swirl marks from the ROS. After I got out most of those I took a clean rag and clean water and dampened the box to help raise the grain. Next I will work my way through 100, 120, 150, 180, and 220. I haven't decided on what finish I am going to use yet, so when I get to that point I'll post another episode. I have about 1.5 hours at this point. I will try to keep track how long I take sanding to give you an idea. Usually when someone asks how long it takes to sand, I simple respond with it takes as long as it takes. LOL
> 
> ...


It's going to be beautifull Joey.

I am following with great interest here.


----------



## vonhagen (Dec 5, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *Sanding*
> 
> Here is a quick couple of pictures. I am not going to get to in depth with the sanding. Basically all I did was put 80 grit on my random orbital sander(ROS) and used the edge to sand out the deep scratches form the grinder. After that I went over it by hand with 80 grit getting out the swirl marks from the ROS. After I got out most of those I took a clean rag and clean water and dampened the box to help raise the grain. Next I will work my way through 100, 120, 150, 180, and 220. I haven't decided on what finish I am going to use yet, so when I get to that point I'll post another episode. I have about 1.5 hours at this point. I will try to keep track how long I take sanding to give you an idea. Usually when someone asks how long it takes to sand, I simple respond with it takes as long as it takes. LOL
> 
> ...


could you imagine some quilted makore and then grinding it the way you did, i think my eyes would pop out like looking into the grand canyon.


----------



## JoeyG (Mar 19, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *Sanding*
> 
> Here is a quick couple of pictures. I am not going to get to in depth with the sanding. Basically all I did was put 80 grit on my random orbital sander(ROS) and used the edge to sand out the deep scratches form the grinder. After that I went over it by hand with 80 grit getting out the swirl marks from the ROS. After I got out most of those I took a clean rag and clean water and dampened the box to help raise the grain. Next I will work my way through 100, 120, 150, 180, and 220. I haven't decided on what finish I am going to use yet, so when I get to that point I'll post another episode. I have about 1.5 hours at this point. I will try to keep track how long I take sanding to give you an idea. Usually when someone asks how long it takes to sand, I simple respond with it takes as long as it takes. LOL
> 
> ...


WOW!!!!!!!!!!! That is one beautiful piece of wood. Where did you get that? It makes me want to run out to the lumberyard. I would be a little scared to start grinding on something like that. LOL I look forward to seeing what you do with it.


----------



## vonhagen (Dec 5, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *Sanding*
> 
> Here is a quick couple of pictures. I am not going to get to in depth with the sanding. Basically all I did was put 80 grit on my random orbital sander(ROS) and used the edge to sand out the deep scratches form the grinder. After that I went over it by hand with 80 grit getting out the swirl marks from the ROS. After I got out most of those I took a clean rag and clean water and dampened the box to help raise the grain. Next I will work my way through 100, 120, 150, 180, and 220. I haven't decided on what finish I am going to use yet, so when I get to that point I'll post another episode. I have about 1.5 hours at this point. I will try to keep track how long I take sanding to give you an idea. Usually when someone asks how long it takes to sand, I simple respond with it takes as long as it takes. LOL
> 
> ...


i got it from my veneer vendor and its very fragile, about 5 feet long and the slices are about 10 inches wide. this is some very spendy stuff i think if it was in 8/4 a board that size would be about 3 grand and sliced up into veneer even more. i am going to soften it up with some glycerin and water and it will be inlay for a table top. how would you like to have a log of this? i get nervous just looking at it. its going to be a sun burst top and its going to be the sun and then quartered ribbon mahogany for some of the rays and i havent figured out what else yet it is well hidden in the shop under tons of sheet stock


----------



## JoeyG (Mar 19, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *Sanding*
> 
> Here is a quick couple of pictures. I am not going to get to in depth with the sanding. Basically all I did was put 80 grit on my random orbital sander(ROS) and used the edge to sand out the deep scratches form the grinder. After that I went over it by hand with 80 grit getting out the swirl marks from the ROS. After I got out most of those I took a clean rag and clean water and dampened the box to help raise the grain. Next I will work my way through 100, 120, 150, 180, and 220. I haven't decided on what finish I am going to use yet, so when I get to that point I'll post another episode. I have about 1.5 hours at this point. I will try to keep track how long I take sanding to give you an idea. Usually when someone asks how long it takes to sand, I simple respond with it takes as long as it takes. LOL
> 
> ...


That is going to be one stunning table. I was just searching the internet and found a pretty board that is 5/4×14x160 for about $300. It's not as pretty as yours. I also checked my local yard and they have it at $12 a board ft for 5/4 stock. I will have to go see what they have. Sometimes you can find really nice piece in the middle or bottom of the stack. I am going to save your picture and go in and tell them I want something like that. Then I will cry after they tell me the price and I leave without it. LOL


----------



## vonhagen (Dec 5, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *Sanding*
> 
> Here is a quick couple of pictures. I am not going to get to in depth with the sanding. Basically all I did was put 80 grit on my random orbital sander(ROS) and used the edge to sand out the deep scratches form the grinder. After that I went over it by hand with 80 grit getting out the swirl marks from the ROS. After I got out most of those I took a clean rag and clean water and dampened the box to help raise the grain. Next I will work my way through 100, 120, 150, 180, and 220. I haven't decided on what finish I am going to use yet, so when I get to that point I'll post another episode. I have about 1.5 hours at this point. I will try to keep track how long I take sanding to give you an idea. Usually when someone asks how long it takes to sand, I simple respond with it takes as long as it takes. LOL
> 
> ...


yea stuff like this is pulled imediatly for veneer but there could be some rough that was missed so bring a little alcohol to check the boards


----------



## vonhagen (Dec 5, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *Sanding*
> 
> Here is a quick couple of pictures. I am not going to get to in depth with the sanding. Basically all I did was put 80 grit on my random orbital sander(ROS) and used the edge to sand out the deep scratches form the grinder. After that I went over it by hand with 80 grit getting out the swirl marks from the ROS. After I got out most of those I took a clean rag and clean water and dampened the box to help raise the grain. Next I will work my way through 100, 120, 150, 180, and 220. I haven't decided on what finish I am going to use yet, so when I get to that point I'll post another episode. I have about 1.5 hours at this point. I will try to keep track how long I take sanding to give you an idea. Usually when someone asks how long it takes to sand, I simple respond with it takes as long as it takes. LOL
> 
> ...





















this koa log was 60 grand


----------



## vonhagen (Dec 5, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *Sanding*
> 
> Here is a quick couple of pictures. I am not going to get to in depth with the sanding. Basically all I did was put 80 grit on my random orbital sander(ROS) and used the edge to sand out the deep scratches form the grinder. After that I went over it by hand with 80 grit getting out the swirl marks from the ROS. After I got out most of those I took a clean rag and clean water and dampened the box to help raise the grain. Next I will work my way through 100, 120, 150, 180, and 220. I haven't decided on what finish I am going to use yet, so when I get to that point I'll post another episode. I have about 1.5 hours at this point. I will try to keep track how long I take sanding to give you an idea. Usually when someone asks how long it takes to sand, I simple respond with it takes as long as it takes. LOL
> 
> ...












this is called keenon and that is real gold in the resin over cnc routed mdf for a sunburst at 20 grand a sheet it took 3 sheets to do this bar modesty


----------



## JoeyG (Mar 19, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *Sanding*
> 
> Here is a quick couple of pictures. I am not going to get to in depth with the sanding. Basically all I did was put 80 grit on my random orbital sander(ROS) and used the edge to sand out the deep scratches form the grinder. After that I went over it by hand with 80 grit getting out the swirl marks from the ROS. After I got out most of those I took a clean rag and clean water and dampened the box to help raise the grain. Next I will work my way through 100, 120, 150, 180, and 220. I haven't decided on what finish I am going to use yet, so when I get to that point I'll post another episode. I have about 1.5 hours at this point. I will try to keep track how long I take sanding to give you an idea. Usually when someone asks how long it takes to sand, I simple respond with it takes as long as it takes. LOL
> 
> ...


I just showed my wife that $60,000 board and she tells me not to get any grandiose ideas. LOL The bar is amazing but I think I will stick with wood. LOL With any luck my cabinet days are over.


----------



## vonhagen (Dec 5, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *Sanding*
> 
> Here is a quick couple of pictures. I am not going to get to in depth with the sanding. Basically all I did was put 80 grit on my random orbital sander(ROS) and used the edge to sand out the deep scratches form the grinder. After that I went over it by hand with 80 grit getting out the swirl marks from the ROS. After I got out most of those I took a clean rag and clean water and dampened the box to help raise the grain. Next I will work my way through 100, 120, 150, 180, and 220. I haven't decided on what finish I am going to use yet, so when I get to that point I'll post another episode. I have about 1.5 hours at this point. I will try to keep track how long I take sanding to give you an idea. Usually when someone asks how long it takes to sand, I simple respond with it takes as long as it takes. LOL
> 
> ...












im on i think my last big job, ive been working on this house in downtown lajolla for a year and got another year at least to go and wait till i start posting pics of it, out of control, money no object 12000 sq ft house. im getting to old and i just want to build furniture when i retire. this pic is of the hardest thing ive ever built


















it took 6 months to build and 2 months to install. 250 grand wine rack


----------



## vonhagen (Dec 5, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *Sanding*
> 
> Here is a quick couple of pictures. I am not going to get to in depth with the sanding. Basically all I did was put 80 grit on my random orbital sander(ROS) and used the edge to sand out the deep scratches form the grinder. After that I went over it by hand with 80 grit getting out the swirl marks from the ROS. After I got out most of those I took a clean rag and clean water and dampened the box to help raise the grain. Next I will work my way through 100, 120, 150, 180, and 220. I haven't decided on what finish I am going to use yet, so when I get to that point I'll post another episode. I have about 1.5 hours at this point. I will try to keep track how long I take sanding to give you an idea. Usually when someone asks how long it takes to sand, I simple respond with it takes as long as it takes. LOL
> 
> ...






























the job with the bar was 4 million in bronze gold and east indian rosewood


----------



## vonhagen (Dec 5, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *Sanding*
> 
> Here is a quick couple of pictures. I am not going to get to in depth with the sanding. Basically all I did was put 80 grit on my random orbital sander(ROS) and used the edge to sand out the deep scratches form the grinder. After that I went over it by hand with 80 grit getting out the swirl marks from the ROS. After I got out most of those I took a clean rag and clean water and dampened the box to help raise the grain. Next I will work my way through 100, 120, 150, 180, and 220. I haven't decided on what finish I am going to use yet, so when I get to that point I'll post another episode. I have about 1.5 hours at this point. I will try to keep track how long I take sanding to give you an idea. Usually when someone asks how long it takes to sand, I simple respond with it takes as long as it takes. LOL
> 
> ...





















this one was in nashville at the hutton hotel


----------



## vonhagen (Dec 5, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *Sanding*
> 
> Here is a quick couple of pictures. I am not going to get to in depth with the sanding. Basically all I did was put 80 grit on my random orbital sander(ROS) and used the edge to sand out the deep scratches form the grinder. After that I went over it by hand with 80 grit getting out the swirl marks from the ROS. After I got out most of those I took a clean rag and clean water and dampened the box to help raise the grain. Next I will work my way through 100, 120, 150, 180, and 220. I haven't decided on what finish I am going to use yet, so when I get to that point I'll post another episode. I have about 1.5 hours at this point. I will try to keep track how long I take sanding to give you an idea. Usually when someone asks how long it takes to sand, I simple respond with it takes as long as it takes. LOL
> 
> ...


well enough of my work, cant wait to see how your box turns out


----------



## JoeyG (Mar 19, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *Sanding*
> 
> Here is a quick couple of pictures. I am not going to get to in depth with the sanding. Basically all I did was put 80 grit on my random orbital sander(ROS) and used the edge to sand out the deep scratches form the grinder. After that I went over it by hand with 80 grit getting out the swirl marks from the ROS. After I got out most of those I took a clean rag and clean water and dampened the box to help raise the grain. Next I will work my way through 100, 120, 150, 180, and 220. I haven't decided on what finish I am going to use yet, so when I get to that point I'll post another episode. I have about 1.5 hours at this point. I will try to keep track how long I take sanding to give you an idea. Usually when someone asks how long it takes to sand, I simple respond with it takes as long as it takes. LOL
> 
> ...


That is some amazing work.


----------



## JoeyG (Mar 19, 2011)

*The Finish Begins*

After sanding and sanding and then sanding some more I have finally started to get a little finish on this thing. I have been trying to decide what to use and finally decided to use Minwax Tung Oil Finish. I have been using the polycrylic a lot lately and want to do something else. I have debated using it over the tung oil finish but I am a little worried. I am working on a sample piece and the tung oil will have time to fully dry while I work on it.

I figured I would show my sample piece also

I sanded it up the same way I did the box and then put a coat of tung oil on it with a clean rag.


















Here is the same process with the box.


















I love the way the tung oil makes that grain pop!!!!

In the next episode I will post the results of my sample and possible a finished box.

Any ideas or don't do's on the finish are most welcome.

Thanks,
Joey


----------



## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

JoeyG said:


> *The Finish Begins*
> 
> After sanding and sanding and then sanding some more I have finally started to get a little finish on this thing. I have been trying to decide what to use and finally decided to use Minwax Tung Oil Finish. I have been using the polycrylic a lot lately and want to do something else. I have debated using it over the tung oil finish but I am a little worried. I am working on a sample piece and the tung oil will have time to fully dry while I work on it.
> 
> ...


That has been my go to finish recently. I use Minwax Sanding Sealer first, but also works without it. I do three coats with a light sand after the first one. And wax at the end.

But I just got a buffer, and it really does the final wax with style. Major improvement.

Steve


----------



## jaykaypur (Oct 22, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *The Finish Begins*
> 
> After sanding and sanding and then sanding some more I have finally started to get a little finish on this thing. I have been trying to decide what to use and finally decided to use Minwax Tung Oil Finish. I have been using the polycrylic a lot lately and want to do something else. I have debated using it over the tung oil finish but I am a little worried. I am working on a sample piece and the tung oil will have time to fully dry while I work on it.
> 
> ...


Looking good. Man oh man, that handle really popped out well. Great job!


----------



## JoeyG (Mar 19, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *The Finish Begins*
> 
> After sanding and sanding and then sanding some more I have finally started to get a little finish on this thing. I have been trying to decide what to use and finally decided to use Minwax Tung Oil Finish. I have been using the polycrylic a lot lately and want to do something else. I have debated using it over the tung oil finish but I am a little worried. I am working on a sample piece and the tung oil will have time to fully dry while I work on it.
> 
> ...


@ Steve. What kind of buffer did you get? I know they can get expensive. I was thinking about picking up a buffing wheel for my stationary grinder. I just wasn't sure if it would work or not. One last question, what kind of wax do you use?

Thanks jaykaypur. I have to agree. I wasn't completely sold on it until I put the finish on it. Now I love it. It is my favorite handle that I have done so far. I also figured out what I was going to name the box, but you will have to wait for the projects post for that.


----------



## lanwater (May 14, 2010)

JoeyG said:


> *The Finish Begins*
> 
> After sanding and sanding and then sanding some more I have finally started to get a little finish on this thing. I have been trying to decide what to use and finally decided to use Minwax Tung Oil Finish. I have been using the polycrylic a lot lately and want to do something else. I have debated using it over the tung oil finish but I am a little worried. I am working on a sample piece and the tung oil will have time to fully dry while I work on it.
> 
> ...


What a difference!

I have a can of tung oil and I never used it. I shall change that.


----------



## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

JoeyG said:


> *The Finish Begins*
> 
> After sanding and sanding and then sanding some more I have finally started to get a little finish on this thing. I have been trying to decide what to use and finally decided to use Minwax Tung Oil Finish. I have been using the polycrylic a lot lately and want to do something else. I have debated using it over the tung oil finish but I am a little worried. I am working on a sample piece and the tung oil will have time to fully dry while I work on it.
> 
> ...


Hey Joey,
I should not be the one to asked about finishing. I feel very inadequate. That is why I have mostly used oils, they make the grain pop and are very forgiving. You can just keep applying coats, but I could never get the final coat just right. Tung Oil Finish is a bit different in that it has some kind of hard coat in it (poly or varnish?). Tung is one of the few oils that will actually dry hard, but this brand will do it overnight; pure Tung takes days to dry.

So… to get to your question; Beall wood buffing system is what I bought. Quite expensive around $70. But it is just fantastic. I have gone around the house taking my old projects and buffing them - I love it.

It contains three 8 inch (floppy and large!) wheels and a shaft extender. The wheels are each different materials, they need to run at 1750 rpm (a lot of grinders are faster), and you need space around it to move the workpiece. So not sure about the grinder option.

Best to watch a video on it:





In the old days I had a classic hard cotton buffing wheel I would mount on the lathe and use for turned projects. It was ok, but hard to get anything like a box buffed. I have somehow lost it, so I bought the Beall. I use the motor on my Vdrum sander. Just pop off the pulley, mount the extender, and go.

Beall uses carnuba wax. It is hard.

From a guy who hates finishing, this is the ticket. It will show your sanding scratches - which keeps you honest - which I guess is a good thing.
Steve


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## JoeyG (Mar 19, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *The Finish Begins*
> 
> After sanding and sanding and then sanding some more I have finally started to get a little finish on this thing. I have been trying to decide what to use and finally decided to use Minwax Tung Oil Finish. I have been using the polycrylic a lot lately and want to do something else. I have debated using it over the tung oil finish but I am a little worried. I am working on a sample piece and the tung oil will have time to fully dry while I work on it.
> 
> ...


@Ian It's good stuff if you have the time to take with it.

@Steve, I ran a cabinet shop for about 15 years. It was a small high end custom shop and we did everything in house. At the most we would have 3-5 guys including myself and the owner. Needless to say I spent more than my fair share of time in the spray booth. If it's lacquer I can work with it. I am not using lacquer in my home shop because I have kids and there are inherent dangers with lacquer and lacquer thinner so I try to keep things safe. That's why I use the polycrylic so much. It's more expensive but much safer to use.

As for the tung oil finish, A lot of my early projects on here are finished with it. I started using it before I had a sprayer and it's so easy to use. Now I was thinking of combining the tung oil finish with the polycrylic over it. I am thinking that maybe several coats of the oil finish and then buffing it. I will spend a little time today researching them online. I thought the cost would be much higher. I was expecting a couple of hundred. Under $100 just might be do able. The other thought would be to just buy the buffing wheels and put them on my drill press. 
One last request for you Steve, would you mind taking a picture of your set up and posting it here. Both for myself and anyone reading the blog.

Thanks 
Joey


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## mnpete (Feb 15, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *The Finish Begins*
> 
> After sanding and sanding and then sanding some more I have finally started to get a little finish on this thing. I have been trying to decide what to use and finally decided to use Minwax Tung Oil Finish. I have been using the polycrylic a lot lately and want to do something else. I have debated using it over the tung oil finish but I am a little worried. I am working on a sample piece and the tung oil will have time to fully dry while I work on it.
> 
> ...


Just read through the whole series. Great stuff! Thanks for sharing. I will be trying one of these in the near future.


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## JoeyG (Mar 19, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *The Finish Begins*
> 
> After sanding and sanding and then sanding some more I have finally started to get a little finish on this thing. I have been trying to decide what to use and finally decided to use Minwax Tung Oil Finish. I have been using the polycrylic a lot lately and want to do something else. I have debated using it over the tung oil finish but I am a little worried. I am working on a sample piece and the tung oil will have time to fully dry while I work on it.
> 
> ...


Thanks mnpete, they are fun to make. I am sure I have said that a hundred times already but it sums up the entire project. Except for maybe the sanding. That can be a toss up depending on how I am feeling. I was able to let this one sit until I was in a sanding mood. I look forward to seeing what you come up with.


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## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

JoeyG said:


> *The Finish Begins*
> 
> After sanding and sanding and then sanding some more I have finally started to get a little finish on this thing. I have been trying to decide what to use and finally decided to use Minwax Tung Oil Finish. I have been using the polycrylic a lot lately and want to do something else. I have debated using it over the tung oil finish but I am a little worried. I am working on a sample piece and the tung oil will have time to fully dry while I work on it.
> 
> ...


VDrum mode:








.
Beal Buffer Mode:









Steve


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## JoeyG (Mar 19, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *The Finish Begins*
> 
> After sanding and sanding and then sanding some more I have finally started to get a little finish on this thing. I have been trying to decide what to use and finally decided to use Minwax Tung Oil Finish. I have been using the polycrylic a lot lately and want to do something else. I have debated using it over the tung oil finish but I am a little worried. I am working on a sample piece and the tung oil will have time to fully dry while I work on it.
> 
> ...


That's a really cool set up, how does the vertical drum work. Where does the down pressure come from? If all that was about $70, I might see one in my not to distant future. Thanks for sharing with us Steve. I am sure you are getting some nice finishes out of it.


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## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

JoeyG said:


> *The Finish Begins*
> 
> After sanding and sanding and then sanding some more I have finally started to get a little finish on this thing. I have been trying to decide what to use and finally decided to use Minwax Tung Oil Finish. I have been using the polycrylic a lot lately and want to do something else. I have debated using it over the tung oil finish but I am a little worried. I am working on a sample piece and the tung oil will have time to fully dry while I work on it.
> 
> ...


The horizontal drum? It is a Vdrum sander. It works like an abrasive jointer. You apply human pressure. It has nothing to do with the buffer other than I am borrowing its motor. The $70 just buys the 3 buffer wheels, the 3 bars (tripoli, white diamond, wax), and the aluminum motor coupling.

Here is my build of the Vdrum. A lot of LJs have built one.
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/27147

Steve


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *The Finish Begins*
> 
> After sanding and sanding and then sanding some more I have finally started to get a little finish on this thing. I have been trying to decide what to use and finally decided to use Minwax Tung Oil Finish. I have been using the polycrylic a lot lately and want to do something else. I have debated using it over the tung oil finish but I am a little worried. I am working on a sample piece and the tung oil will have time to fully dry while I work on it.
> 
> ...


Joey, That tung oil finish will turn out very nice and you can build it as thick as you have the patience for BUT be sure you get all the excess wiped/rubbed off before it gets gummy. Don't ask how I learned this!


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## JoeyG (Mar 19, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *The Finish Begins*
> 
> After sanding and sanding and then sanding some more I have finally started to get a little finish on this thing. I have been trying to decide what to use and finally decided to use Minwax Tung Oil Finish. I have been using the polycrylic a lot lately and want to do something else. I have debated using it over the tung oil finish but I am a little worried. I am working on a sample piece and the tung oil will have time to fully dry while I work on it.
> 
> ...


Thanks Steve, now it makes since. I need to make me one of those. I can see where it comes in handy in a lot of situations.

@ gfadvm, I have had that problem in the past. I was working on a small palm box in the Andy style and didn't come back and wipe it down. I think I ended up using a card scraper to get the runs off and then sanding back down almost to bare wood. I remember I used a pile of sandpaper and some really colorful words.

Lesson learned, I always check back about every 5 mins until I am sure there will be no more runs.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

JoeyG said:


> *The Finish Begins*
> 
> After sanding and sanding and then sanding some more I have finally started to get a little finish on this thing. I have been trying to decide what to use and finally decided to use Minwax Tung Oil Finish. I have been using the polycrylic a lot lately and want to do something else. I have debated using it over the tung oil finish but I am a little worried. I am working on a sample piece and the tung oil will have time to fully dry while I work on it.
> 
> ...


looks fantastic to me.


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## JoeyG (Mar 19, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *The Finish Begins*
> 
> After sanding and sanding and then sanding some more I have finally started to get a little finish on this thing. I have been trying to decide what to use and finally decided to use Minwax Tung Oil Finish. I have been using the polycrylic a lot lately and want to do something else. I have debated using it over the tung oil finish but I am a little worried. I am working on a sample piece and the tung oil will have time to fully dry while I work on it.
> 
> ...


Thanks Roger, welcome aboard. I am hoping to get the last couple of coats on it this week and get the final pictures up into the project section. I took a look at your projects. You have some really nice boxes yourself. I really like the wooden hinges. I plan to have a go at them sometime in the future. I hope they are not as difficult as they look.

Joey


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## JonathanG (Jan 18, 2010)

JoeyG said:


> *The Finish Begins*
> 
> After sanding and sanding and then sanding some more I have finally started to get a little finish on this thing. I have been trying to decide what to use and finally decided to use Minwax Tung Oil Finish. I have been using the polycrylic a lot lately and want to do something else. I have debated using it over the tung oil finish but I am a little worried. I am working on a sample piece and the tung oil will have time to fully dry while I work on it.
> 
> ...


Joey, this was a great blog series. I have been thinking about trying my handing at sculpting, so this is a bit of a push in the right direction. Not necessarily sculpting a box right away, but all the information here still applies. Thank you!


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## Tokolosi (Dec 14, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *The Finish Begins*
> 
> After sanding and sanding and then sanding some more I have finally started to get a little finish on this thing. I have been trying to decide what to use and finally decided to use Minwax Tung Oil Finish. I have been using the polycrylic a lot lately and want to do something else. I have debated using it over the tung oil finish but I am a little worried. I am working on a sample piece and the tung oil will have time to fully dry while I work on it.
> 
> ...


Thanks for this series Joey! I have been itching to try one of those sculpted boxes you and others make look so easy! Now I am all fired up.


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## Ken90712 (Sep 2, 2009)

JoeyG said:


> *The Finish Begins*
> 
> After sanding and sanding and then sanding some more I have finally started to get a little finish on this thing. I have been trying to decide what to use and finally decided to use Minwax Tung Oil Finish. I have been using the polycrylic a lot lately and want to do something else. I have debated using it over the tung oil finish but I am a little worried. I am working on a sample piece and the tung oil will have time to fully dry while I work on it.
> 
> ...


Nice job. I enjoyed reading this. I have one of the V drum sanders along with a 18/36 Delta drim sander. I use the Vdrum sander al the time. Great work on the box.


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## JoeyG (Mar 19, 2011)

*The Finishing Continues*

I decided to go with just the tung oil finish on this one. I may wax and buff it at the end, I'll wait to see if it needs it or not. I have pictures of the second and third coats here. I gave each coat at least 24 hours to dry then sanded with 400 and then reapplied the finish.

Second coat


















Third coat









I don't know how many coats I will do total, it depends on how it builds. I'll see ya next time.
Joey


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## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

JoeyG said:


> *The Finishing Continues*
> 
> I decided to go with just the tung oil finish on this one. I may wax and buff it at the end, I'll wait to see if it needs it or not. I have pictures of the second and third coats here. I gave each coat at least 24 hours to dry then sanded with 400 and then reapplied the finish.
> 
> ...


Looking good here…


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## jaykaypur (Oct 22, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *The Finishing Continues*
> 
> I decided to go with just the tung oil finish on this one. I may wax and buff it at the end, I'll wait to see if it needs it or not. I have pictures of the second and third coats here. I gave each coat at least 24 hours to dry then sanded with 400 and then reapplied the finish.
> 
> ...


Great looking finish. Good lustre to it, too!


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## JoeyG (Mar 19, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *The Finishing Continues*
> 
> I decided to go with just the tung oil finish on this one. I may wax and buff it at the end, I'll wait to see if it needs it or not. I have pictures of the second and third coats here. I gave each coat at least 24 hours to dry then sanded with 400 and then reapplied the finish.
> 
> ...


Thanks. I hope to have it finished in a couple more days. These finishes can drag out a bit much for my liking but they do look nice when they are done right.


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## lanwater (May 14, 2010)

JoeyG said:


> *The Finishing Continues*
> 
> I decided to go with just the tung oil finish on this one. I may wax and buff it at the end, I'll wait to see if it needs it or not. I have pictures of the second and third coats here. I gave each coat at least 24 hours to dry then sanded with 400 and then reapplied the finish.
> 
> ...


Looking good!

I can't wait to see the final coat.


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## JoeyG (Mar 19, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *The Finishing Continues*
> 
> I decided to go with just the tung oil finish on this one. I may wax and buff it at the end, I'll wait to see if it needs it or not. I have pictures of the second and third coats here. I gave each coat at least 24 hours to dry then sanded with 400 and then reapplied the finish.
> 
> ...


Neither can I Ian. I am ready to ship this one off for consignment.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *The Finishing Continues*
> 
> I decided to go with just the tung oil finish on this one. I may wax and buff it at the end, I'll wait to see if it needs it or not. I have pictures of the second and third coats here. I gave each coat at least 24 hours to dry then sanded with 400 and then reapplied the finish.
> 
> ...


Very nice.You are joining the ranks of 'the master box sculptors'. Impatience is what always wrecks my finishes and you're too far along to wreck this one so be careful.


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## vonhagen (Dec 5, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *The Finishing Continues*
> 
> I decided to go with just the tung oil finish on this one. I may wax and buff it at the end, I'll wait to see if it needs it or not. I have pictures of the second and third coats here. I gave each coat at least 24 hours to dry then sanded with 400 and then reapplied the finish.
> 
> ...


it looks awesum , great job


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## vonhagen (Dec 5, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *The Finishing Continues*
> 
> I decided to go with just the tung oil finish on this one. I may wax and buff it at the end, I'll wait to see if it needs it or not. I have pictures of the second and third coats here. I gave each coat at least 24 hours to dry then sanded with 400 and then reapplied the finish.
> 
> ...


and andy you know that every time i cut corners to speed things up its always disaster, its best to walk away for a bit and just think about it before making hasty decisions that wreck a project, i look at the whole picture then work on it in small sections always keeping in mind how one thing will effect another, kinda like playing chess or in my case checkers cuz i dont know how to play chess.


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## abie (Jan 28, 2008)

JoeyG said:


> *The Finishing Continues*
> 
> I decided to go with just the tung oil finish on this one. I may wax and buff it at the end, I'll wait to see if it needs it or not. I have pictures of the second and third coats here. I gave each coat at least 24 hours to dry then sanded with 400 and then reapplied the finish.
> 
> ...


TNX TNX TNX TNX
I have beenwaiting to see atutorial and you have answered many of my quesations about the tecnique..
many tnanks again.
Bruce retired anf really tired.


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## JoeyG (Mar 19, 2011)

*Time for some fabric*

The finish is coming along nicely. I am up to about 6 coats of tung oil finish. I have lost count and still have at least a couple more to go. I didn't want to keep posting the same pics of the finish process so I decided to do something else.

I have been leaving the bottoms plain since I use cedar and I really like the way it looks, but this time I wanted to do a little something extra. I haven't lined any of my boxes recently and this one seemed to need a soft touch to it.

This first picture is just the tools I am using. You can see the micro-suede I used. I am going for a earthy feel so I chose the sage. I keep a little of this stuff around in different colors for when I need it. You will also see some cardboard, carpet tape, double sided tape and a small square. You also need something to cut everything with.









First cut the cardboard 1/16 inch smaller than your box (length and width). I then cut a piece of fabric a couple inches bigger than the cardboard. I put carpet tape on each side of the length.









Peel the carpet tape and flip over the cardboard and center on the fabric. With the cardboard and fabric stuck together I then apply carpet tape to the back of the cardboard. This will end up being the bottom of the liner.









Next I cut the corners of the fabric off at a 45 degree angle being sure to leave at least 1/16 past the corner of the cardboard. I marked the 45's on the cardboard to be safe.









Then I add the narrow double sided tape in between the carpet tape. I normally use the carpet tape, but I didn't this time because I am not done with the finish on the box and didn't want to take a chance of it sticking to the box. I could have cut my fabric a little larger and not had this problem but didn't think about it until it was to late. Then pull the sides tight and attach to the tape. 









Here it is all done and sitting on the table









And in the box









I believe all that is left to do to this one is a few more coats of finish and a raw cedar stop. The cedar stop will be unfinished and used to give that awesome cedar smell to the box and to stop the lid from opening up to far. If you have seen my other blogs then chances are you know what I am talking about. If not then stay tuned.

Thanks for joining me
Joey


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## jaykaypur (Oct 22, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *Time for some fabric*
> 
> The finish is coming along nicely. I am up to about 6 coats of tung oil finish. I have lost count and still have at least a couple more to go. I didn't want to keep posting the same pics of the finish process so I decided to do something else.
> 
> ...


A very fine job and instructive to me. I can definitely use this idea on my boxes. You are a "project" saver for me. This will work great for me. Thanks.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *Time for some fabric*
> 
> The finish is coming along nicely. I am up to about 6 coats of tung oil finish. I have lost count and still have at least a couple more to go. I didn't want to keep posting the same pics of the finish process so I decided to do something else.
> 
> ...


Nice tip Joey. I may have to start putting some kind of liner in my boxes now that you've shown me how easy it is. That box looks really cool. Almost looks iradescent. I'll send you a box and you sculpt it, OK?


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

JoeyG said:


> *Time for some fabric*
> 
> The finish is coming along nicely. I am up to about 6 coats of tung oil finish. I have lost count and still have at least a couple more to go. I didn't want to keep posting the same pics of the finish process so I decided to do something else.
> 
> ...


Nice job on explaining the liner construction.


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## NeiraClaudia (Jan 19, 2012)

JoeyG said:


> *Time for some fabric*
> 
> The finish is coming along nicely. I am up to about 6 coats of tung oil finish. I have lost count and still have at least a couple more to go. I didn't want to keep posting the same pics of the finish process so I decided to do something else.
> 
> ...


That's very good, I think I can learn more from you.

anti aging skin products


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## vonhagen (Dec 5, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *Time for some fabric*
> 
> The finish is coming along nicely. I am up to about 6 coats of tung oil finish. I have lost count and still have at least a couple more to go. I didn't want to keep posting the same pics of the finish process so I decided to do something else.
> 
> ...


great job i love it. have you tried using flocking? i got a flocking gun and it is very simple to use, just brush on some varnish where you want the flock, pour the color in the gun and give it a little pump shoot it onto the varnish and then just blow of the exces when done. no cutting and fitting. i use royal blue, red or green, its great for gun cabinets and jewelry boxes and its cheap


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## JoeyG (Mar 19, 2011)

*Final Episode*

This is it, I am all done. After getting the finish to the point I wanted it all I had to do was put in the cedar lid catch. I use a piece of raw cedar that I sanded down to 220. I don't put any finish on it because I want that lovely smell to be as strong as possible. I used the epoxy that comes in the double syringes that you just press a little out and mix it up. I believe it is 5 min epoxy. After I put in the liner I put in the ceder and held in place for a few minutes. I normally clamp it, but I didn't want to damage the finish. After a few minutes I had a good bond and just set it aside so it could cure fully.


















I have thought about putting in dividers but haven't made up my mind yet. If I decide to I will be back with that. Otherwise, here is the finished box.

Thanks for joining me, and THANKS to all those out there who did this style before me. I am grateful for your influence to my artistic endeavors.

Joey

I present to you, Hatteras









As I began working on this project I didn't know exactly where I would end up. As I was doing the sculpting one cold day, it began to remind me of the beach. The sparkle of the mahogany reminded me of the sand dunes and the maple and walnut made me think of the wooden steps and walkways that lead over the dunes and to the beach at Hatteras and the name seemed obvious. I have thought long and hard about the name, but for me this is the only one that fits. I hope you have enjoyed the blog as much as I have enjoyed doing it. Until next time keep making dust,
Joey


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## jaykaypur (Oct 22, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *Final Episode*
> 
> This is it, I am all done. After getting the finish to the point I wanted it all I had to do was put in the cedar lid catch. I use a piece of raw cedar that I sanded down to 220. I don't put any finish on it because I want that lovely smell to be as strong as possible. I used the epoxy that comes in the double syringes that you just press a little out and mix it up. I believe it is 5 min epoxy. After I put in the liner I put in the ceder and held in place for a few minutes. I normally clamp it, but I didn't want to damage the finish. After a few minutes I had a good bond and just set it aside so it could cure fully.
> 
> ...


Beautiful work.

Ahhhhhhhhh….Hatteras…..have I got from stories from there…back when you could still camp out at the old lighthouse and do a whole bunch of…..........well, I digress! LOL


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## JoeyG (Mar 19, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *Final Episode*
> 
> This is it, I am all done. After getting the finish to the point I wanted it all I had to do was put in the cedar lid catch. I use a piece of raw cedar that I sanded down to 220. I don't put any finish on it because I want that lovely smell to be as strong as possible. I used the epoxy that comes in the double syringes that you just press a little out and mix it up. I believe it is 5 min epoxy. After I put in the liner I put in the ceder and held in place for a few minutes. I normally clamp it, but I didn't want to damage the finish. After a few minutes I had a good bond and just set it aside so it could cure fully.
> 
> ...


haha, I think most of us have a few. There was this one summer I just drove up and down the coast, surfing and…....... Ah the memories. LOL Thanks for hanging out for this journey.


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

JoeyG said:


> *Final Episode*
> 
> This is it, I am all done. After getting the finish to the point I wanted it all I had to do was put in the cedar lid catch. I use a piece of raw cedar that I sanded down to 220. I don't put any finish on it because I want that lovely smell to be as strong as possible. I used the epoxy that comes in the double syringes that you just press a little out and mix it up. I believe it is 5 min epoxy. After I put in the liner I put in the ceder and held in place for a few minutes. I normally clamp it, but I didn't want to damage the finish. After a few minutes I had a good bond and just set it aside so it could cure fully.
> 
> ...


Nice job Joey.

Great box.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

JoeyG said:


> *Final Episode*
> 
> This is it, I am all done. After getting the finish to the point I wanted it all I had to do was put in the cedar lid catch. I use a piece of raw cedar that I sanded down to 220. I don't put any finish on it because I want that lovely smell to be as strong as possible. I used the epoxy that comes in the double syringes that you just press a little out and mix it up. I believe it is 5 min epoxy. After I put in the liner I put in the ceder and held in place for a few minutes. I normally clamp it, but I didn't want to damage the finish. After a few minutes I had a good bond and just set it aside so it could cure fully.
> 
> ...


this a a very kool sculpted box. I really like the way you did the handle. very very kool


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## teecee (Apr 22, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *Final Episode*
> 
> This is it, I am all done. After getting the finish to the point I wanted it all I had to do was put in the cedar lid catch. I use a piece of raw cedar that I sanded down to 220. I don't put any finish on it because I want that lovely smell to be as strong as possible. I used the epoxy that comes in the double syringes that you just press a little out and mix it up. I believe it is 5 min epoxy. After I put in the liner I put in the ceder and held in place for a few minutes. I normally clamp it, but I didn't want to damage the finish. After a few minutes I had a good bond and just set it aside so it could cure fully.
> 
> ...


I've seen a bunch of these sculpted boxes by Andy, Greg and others and wondered how they did it. Thanks for posting this series, it was very informative.


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## JoeyG (Mar 19, 2011)

JoeyG said:


> *Final Episode*
> 
> This is it, I am all done. After getting the finish to the point I wanted it all I had to do was put in the cedar lid catch. I use a piece of raw cedar that I sanded down to 220. I don't put any finish on it because I want that lovely smell to be as strong as possible. I used the epoxy that comes in the double syringes that you just press a little out and mix it up. I believe it is 5 min epoxy. After I put in the liner I put in the ceder and held in place for a few minutes. I normally clamp it, but I didn't want to damage the finish. After a few minutes I had a good bond and just set it aside so it could cure fully.
> 
> ...


I'm glad you liked the blog Tom. Will you be doing some of these boxes?


----------

