# Shop jigs



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

*Wheel making jig number 3*

This is wheel jig number 3.

Make sure your *eyes are rested* and you have your *reading glasses handy* it's a long one.

Here's the kind a wheels I can make with this jig.


















I seem to never quit finding I need to adjust my jig for different sized wheels, and have been building more modern cars that use small wheels even though they are not small models.
The case in point was my last build a Mustang, I blow up the plans to be twice as big and the wheels were still under 2".
This is a problem as my jig was made for wheels around 2 3/4 or bigger and I need to use a 7 1/4 saw blade to get the thin kerfs that looks right..
The problem comes in because to do the smaller wheels the blade needs to be raised in the jig but a 7 1/4 blade will only go up so far, a 10" blade will work but if you cut 36 treads for the tire as the jig is set up for, the thicker blade cut and the smaller circumference of the wheel make for some really thin treads.
*The fix is to make an adjustable jig* that can raise and lower the axle bar as needed to still be able to use the 7 1/4 blade.

The jig I use now can do this but you have to take the axle bar apart and lower to different holes to get it done and it's very time consuming.
So the plan is to take my oldest wheel jig apart and use the table saw sled from it then build an adjustable axle bar for it.

Some one asked me a question the other day and I went to looking up an answer in my blog posts and even with the index I made things are hard to find about wheel making.
As I'm now waiting for Gatto to send me their plans for a Chevy Corvette I thought I would redo the wheel jig and get ready for some wheels and while I'm at it make a blog of the jig build with measurements .

So here's the jig all finished up, I guess I should put some finish on it but it's a tool not a model. 









I know some will say it looks just like the last one but there's two really big differences.
One is the *height adjustment* and the other is when I switch from one angle to the other or to straight all *my guides use the same dowel holes for setting the angle* so no more confusion about which hole is which so the change over is much quicker.

With the back guide fence in place and the quick change wheel stop I've still got 6 1/2" of space for tire blanks, which means I can do 6 to 8 tires at a time in the straight cut mod.
In angled mod you can only do one at a time and some times two if I'm not after to nice a match on the tread.

The base is a table saw sled with no braces top and bottom [If I start having any warp problems I will add some but have had nun in over a year]

Here is the sled bottom when finished, it was square to start with.
There are a ton a how 2s about making the sled so check one of them out.
Every table saw is different so need to make to suit, just remember that where the blade come through is the important thing, adjust to that..
The cut angle on the bottom of the sled are so the handle can turn as it hangs over the side of the sled.










First I build a box 5" wide and 3" deep, and 4" high, there is a grove cut [3" side] where the axle bar needs to go throw and needs to be able to go up and down.
The grove goes up to 2 1/2", which should let me make 4 3/4 wheels to 1 1/4.
This box is used to keep everything squared up.
Made with a top and bottom and *I used screws* so if anything down the road needs changed no problem.









Notice I have a 3/4 space before the long sides, this is for the axle guide plates, front and back.
*NOTE* Cut all the sides and guide plates at the *same time so all will match up*, also the axle holes.
Really none of these measurements are critical I just went big for if I ever build another Hummer, then again if tractors are in your future go wide my friend go wide and high. LOL










Now for the guide plates which should fit snug so as you raise and lower them they'll match the other side.
I won't be raising and lowering that much so will just use screws to hold them in place as needed.
Later I may add dowels for fast high adjustments.
I drilled 1/4" holes for the axles in the sliding plates about 1 1/4" high but I could have gone down to 3/4" or the top of the bottom plate.
These are the plates that will go up and down when needed for tread height.

*Down for the smaller wheels.*









*Up for the big dogs.*










I used 1/4" all tread for the jig, which matches my model builds if you build with bigger axles use bigger, bigger would be better.
Here you can see where I bolt a wheel with some sand paper on it, this is where the wheels get held to the axle so they can't move.
I use tree nuts to help hold it all together.
*Note* I add a small screw to the tee nut to make sure all stays in place.

*The nut pattern goes as follows on the all thread..*

Nut--lock washer--plywood guide--tee nut--fender washer--
plywood **--fender washer--nut--lock washer---
plywood *[nuts should be locked just behind plywood and all other parts locked to this]-*--fender washer--nut--lock washer--nut--fender washer--plywood--tee nut. 
[this last tee nut should be flush with the wood and then sand paper added to help hold the wheel blanks]










Here again we see the tee nut doing it's job, I all so have one on the back side of the handle with the teeth cut off.
This handle and the wheel clamp must not move on the axle or the jig will not work right.
You also see in this picture where I added a spacer where the guide pin goes in the guide to stop any slop in the guide.

I prefer to use a pin in the guide to hold the wheels in place, when cutting 8 wheels at a time you don't want any slip ups.










Here's a good picture of the table set up in straight mod.
When you build your sled, once its made set it on the table saw and cut out the center so you'll know where it is, then you'll know where to place the jig center of the saw blade in straight mod.

*Note try not to cut out any more of the kerf then need be for strength.*










Here you can see where I added the wings so I would have something to bolt the jig to the base.

Also you can see the two screws holding the wings down, if you look closely there's three dowels put in place to guide me the next time I take off and on the fence.
I used the same guide holes and dowels on the wings for every angle change, and the screws go back in the same holes, this way changing from one angle to another takes minutes with no thought needed to readjust anything.









*NOTE Be sure not to put any screws or nails where the saw can get to them when the jig is in angle mod.*

Here I'm setting up the angle using a 30-60-90 Triangle



























Then the other angle or side.









Here drilling for the dowel not going all the way through.









With the jig at an angle I needed to cut some off the end for the guide wheel.












































Bolt Guide









*One last thing Stop blocks.*
I put the fence close to the base and add a screw to the base, near the edge and clamp a block of wood for a stop block to the fence. 
This is the stop as I pull the jig toward me.
I use a block at the back screwed to my out feed table for the outer most stop.
Now you can push and pull on the sled with out having to worry about anything.

There are much simpler jigs for making threaded wheels but if you need it make a ton of them this can get it done fast and safe as your hands are a long way away from trouble and the guide makes it a no brainier just add some wheel blanks adjust the blade height and off you go.
It is now hung on the wall ready for use at any time with no setup.
I think it may be a good idea as your cutting wheels to give your table saw a brake to cool down once in a while. LOL

If I'm up to it I may try and make a wheel making blog from start to finish as always before I would just show the newer tips which has gotten everything pretty spread out.

I hope this is helpful.
Htl over and out.


----------



## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

htl said:


> *Wheel making jig number 3*
> 
> This is wheel jig number 3.
> 
> ...


Your jigs are always amazing. Thanks for showing and explaining the jig.


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

htl said:


> *Wheel making jig number 3*
> 
> This is wheel jig number 3.
> 
> ...


Thanks Redoak49 for your comment.
I got up this morning thinking it was to much and was going to delete it.
I hope to adjust this blog as I reread it to make things clearer.

I tried making all the pictures with comments with SketchUp
and it looked great but couldn't figure out how to make the typing big enough to be seen on this site, may have to have the big $$$ version.
I ended up using Windows Paint 3D and it was a pain!!!


----------



## bushmaster (Feb 25, 2012)

htl said:


> *Wheel making jig number 3*
> 
> This is wheel jig number 3.
> 
> ...


Always interested in versions of idea's to make the tire treads, Will have to study this one more when I get time. Things that you do are always the best.


----------



## Northwest29 (Aug 1, 2011)

htl said:


> *Wheel making jig number 3*
> 
> This is wheel jig number 3.
> 
> ...


It's always a pleasure of great interest to see your postings. Especially, the jigs you create for wheels. Thanks for the time and energy that you put into the posts.


----------



## oldrivers (Feb 10, 2014)

htl said:


> *Wheel making jig number 3*
> 
> This is wheel jig number 3.
> 
> ...


Quite a setup there looks complicated & interesting.


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

htl said:


> *Wheel making jig number 3*
> 
> This is wheel jig number 3.
> 
> ...


I'm pleased you left the blog up Bruce,
It's a first class jig, thank you.


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

htl said:


> *Wheel making jig number 3*
> 
> This is wheel jig number 3.
> 
> ...


Oldrivers I have been working on refining this jig ever since I saw Dutchy building his beautiful wheels way back in March of 2016, it put a fire under me to come up with a no brainier, safe way to build nice treads for our tires.


----------



## BruceBarber (Mar 14, 2016)

htl said:


> *Wheel making jig number 3*
> 
> This is wheel jig number 3.
> 
> ...


Hi .. i was wondering if you sale the wheel jig ,, i would pay you to build ne for me ??
i would love to make those kind of wheels .. PLEASE e-mail me back
Bruce


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

htl said:


> *Wheel making jig number 3*
> 
> This is wheel jig number 3.
> 
> ...


Bruce I would love to build you one, but the shipping would be big bucks and a headache to Canada me thinks.


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

htl said:


> *Wheel making jig number 3*
> 
> This is wheel jig number 3.
> 
> ...





> Bruce I would love to build you one, but the shipping would be big bucks and a headache to Canada me thinks.
> 
> - htl


Just a thought. 
What about a flat pack kit, lacquered of course with some of Bruce's first class instructions & photos. 
Maybe easier.


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

htl said:


> *Wheel making jig number 3*
> 
> This is wheel jig number 3.
> 
> ...


I'm in the process of making the plans clearer and an trying my hand at SkethUp so we will see.


----------



## Mas (Mar 16, 2012)

htl said:


> *Wheel making jig number 3*
> 
> This is wheel jig number 3.
> 
> ...


I truely hope someday soon I get around top making a wheel jig like yours. 
You really have given all of us allot of information and details on how you make your models look so realistic.


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

htl said:


> *Wheel making jig number 3*
> 
> This is wheel jig number 3.
> 
> ...


Mas I have just as much fun blogging about the model projects as I do building them.


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

*Wheel making jig number 3 Just some extras*

I put together some extra tee nuts and bolts on an all threat to better show how it all works together, I'm sure there's a better way but it gets it done for me.




























And here's what it looks like if you not in the need for the height adjustment.




































#4 over and out


----------



## Budster (Jul 17, 2016)

htl said:


> *Wheel making jig number 3 Just some extras*
> 
> I put together some extra tee nuts and bolts on an all threat to better show how it all works together, I'm sure there's a better way but it gets it done for me.
> 
> ...


Wow what happened to the wheel? Will your plan work. I am building one and need to know if I should keep going or find another plan.


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

htl said:


> *Wheel making jig number 3 Just some extras*
> 
> I put together some extra tee nuts and bolts on an all threat to better show how it all works together, I'm sure there's a better way but it gets it done for me.
> 
> ...


LOL!!!!!!!!!!!

What your seeing is my older jig that has made I don't know how many tires.
That's not a wheel but the wood bolted to the all thread so you'll have something to clamp the wheel blanks to so all stays nice and straight.
It gets ate up if you change highs for different wheels and just has a hard life helping make wheels.
It has sand paper glued to the end of it and you have to clamp the wheels down so they don't move.
Check out some of my other wheel blogs but don't be afraid to ask question about this project and send me a note if need be, will be glad to help.

That 4th picture from the top isn't a very good one as the black handle [can't think what you call them] is on the wrong side of the plywood guide. [This is how I store it so nothing gets last]
You unscrew the black handle take off the guide add some wheel blanks screw the black handle back on to hold the wheels up against the wheel stop, then I use the plywood spacer to help hold the all thread so it doesn't move up and down while cutting the wheels.
I cut 6 or more wheels at a time in straight mod so need something on the end to keep things in line.
I use a small bar clamp over the jig and spacer to keep it in place while cutting.

I may be building a truck after I finish the caboose and when I make the wheels I'll do a step by step of how it all works.


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

*Wheel making jig Setting it up*

*A helper post for the tread making jig.*

Here is the jig in straight mod but I need angle tire treads so!









Take out the two screws holding the base down, then pull up and turn the frame for angled mod, using the dowels to line everything up, them screw it down so everything stays in place.









I cut off the corner so the fence could get in closer.









I added a stop block at the back of the table saw so i wouldn't have to think about stopping ,just hit the stop and on we go.


















Then we add a screw near the front of the fence for the other stopping point.








Then clamp a board to the fence so the jig will stop just past cutting the groove.








Now it will be stopped both at the front and back swing.










Here are the two types of nobs I use to hold the wheel blanks in place.
The black needs to be screwed all the way the other is way cool and will slip on till it hits the wheel blank then grip the threads. [Thanks Ducky for turning me on to these.] {I think their a ROCKLER part}










Now get an idea where the blade will hit the tire and get it close, but you can fine tune it by making your first cut and raise the blade as needed till you get it right.









Now add a blank, [one at a time in angled mod] I needed to add a spacer at the back so the blade wouldn't eat up the nob as it came around.










Now add the spacer block at the back to help hold the rod in place, just a quick clamp for this. 
Be sure the all thread is level.

















The wheel is done.
And you can see why the backer board gets all chewed up.

These tire are for my Bob Cat and the jig has 36 holes on the indicator, as the wheels are so small and I wanted a different look, so just used every other hole to add more space and less tread.
[Most Toys and Joys trucks and the like use the 36 tread grooves.]


















Then after you make the right side treads you need to make the lefts, so switch the jig on the base and you'll need to make some adjustments to the stop blocks.


















Your table saw is probable different so you'll need to figure out what will work for you.
I would guess you could do it with out the stop blocks but you'll be making many , many cuts so it safer and just easier to use the blocks to me, turns it in to a no brainier for the cuts.

I hope this is helpful and clears up some questions you may have had.


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

htl said:


> *Wheel making jig Setting it up*
> 
> *A helper post for the tread making jig.*
> 
> ...


Thank you Bruce


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

htl said:


> *Wheel making jig Setting it up*
> 
> *A helper post for the tread making jig.*
> 
> ...


No problem Crowie just trying to be helpful.


----------



## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

htl said:


> *Wheel making jig Setting it up*
> 
> *A helper post for the tread making jig.*
> 
> ...


I really appreciate you posting the jigs that you use. There are well done blogs and will be very helpful. Next on my project list is a model and learning to make wheels.

I am getting close to completing a Maloof style rocker and wheels are my next.


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

htl said:


> *Wheel making jig Setting it up*
> 
> *A helper post for the tread making jig.*
> 
> ...


Here's a look at my first wheels made with the new jig.
These are 1 1/2" store bought wheels that i cut up for this project.


















I would not have been able to make these with my last jig as they were to small.
I used two saw blades to get a thicker groove for the treads.


----------



## ralbuck (Mar 12, 2012)

htl said:


> *Wheel making jig Setting it up*
> 
> *A helper post for the tread making jig.*
> 
> ...


Ir is looking a lot like the ones I used to operate.


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

*Cutting out the wheel blanks.*

There's a hundred ways to cut out the blanks for the wheels but here's my method.

It is best to use oak, walnut, and maple is out standing, you need a strong grain so it doesn't chip.
Cutting the treads a little deeper than you need will give you space to sand out any chips, make the wheels a little bigger than needed for this reason also.

My wheels need to be 2 1/2" so I ripped down some lumber a little wider than needed.










Then at the table saw cut them to thickness, I do it in two step as I don't like ripping it at full with.
Then over to the plainer to clean it up.









Now draw a line down the center and with a Pencil Compass draw out the wheels a little big, then over to the drill press and drill out the centers.


















Then over to the band saw to cut them out but again no need to get it close as the drum sander jig will clean up the edges and get them just right.


































Then a light sanding and off to the tread making jig.
I needed 12 straight cut tread and could do them all at one time a real time saver.









The wheels as you can see need some sanding then they'll be ready to glue up, then sand sand sand.









When I glue the treads up I use a 1/4" dowel to keep the centers inline and just glue up one part at a time so all stays lined up.
That's tomorrows job so no pictures sorry.


----------



## ralbuck (Mar 12, 2012)

htl said:


> *Cutting out the wheel blanks.*
> 
> There's a hundred ways to cut out the blanks for the wheels but here's my method.
> 
> ...


Very nicely done.


----------



## hookfoot (Jan 23, 2013)

htl said:


> *Cutting out the wheel blanks.*
> 
> There's a hundred ways to cut out the blanks for the wheels but here's my method.
> 
> ...


I love your sand, sand, sand comment. I always tell everyone that when you think you are done sanding, get another piece of sandpaper and it one more time.


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

htl said:


> *Cutting out the wheel blanks.*
> 
> There's a hundred ways to cut out the blanks for the wheels but here's my method.
> 
> ...


Top effort Bruce


----------



## Budster (Jul 17, 2016)

htl said:


> *Cutting out the wheel blanks.*
> 
> There's a hundred ways to cut out the blanks for the wheels but here's my method.
> 
> ...


Cool thanks I needed the help.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

htl said:


> *Cutting out the wheel blanks.*
> 
> There's a hundred ways to cut out the blanks for the wheels but here's my method.
> 
> ...


Looks well organized and efficient with a great result.


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

htl said:


> *Cutting out the wheel blanks.*
> 
> There's a hundred ways to cut out the blanks for the wheels but here's my method.
> 
> ...


Bud I was thinking of you when I made the blog.
I had been wanting to write this but once you get fired up building some times it's hard to stop and take the right pictures so it all make sense.
I've made a lot a miss steps before I finally found what works FOR ME, but different tools means finding another way.
My Shop Smith really helps with the drum sanding.
I know some of my extra thoughts may not be where they should when put in the blog but just add them as they hit me.
As with all things like this howto, it needs to be read more than once for it all to fall in place.


----------



## Jason1974 (Jul 8, 2017)

htl said:


> *Cutting out the wheel blanks.*
> 
> There's a hundred ways to cut out the blanks for the wheels but here's my method.
> 
> ...


Bruce, what is the thickness of your blanks? Gonna try making some tires your way. I like how your tires look.


----------



## Budster (Jul 17, 2016)

htl said:


> *Cutting out the wheel blanks.*
> 
> There's a hundred ways to cut out the blanks for the wheels but here's my method.
> 
> ...


Thanks htl.
I "see" nothing wrong with your blogs and they help my wake up my lazy brain. Like I said before , a lot of my problems are because of my sight being so bad that it is hard to see a lot of detail in some plans and cutting.I am lucky that I have a very caring wife of 40 years that will help with what she can. I also try to help others with disabilities and they can help me with some of the things that I can't see well.
I hope to do my first building blog on a jig for rounding wheels on the sanders. My jig looks like yours , but I have mine so that you can clamp it to the sander one time, then turn a crank to adjust the wheel size. By using another blank, you can make the wheels the all the same size . 
I mope to get pictures soon so I can try my first blog.


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

htl said:


> *Cutting out the wheel blanks.*
> 
> There's a hundred ways to cut out the blanks for the wheels but here's my method.
> 
> ...


Jason a lot depends on what thickness you need the tires to be.
A thin center looks good 1/8" or a tad more.
The out side needs to be thicker so you can round them and shape them some. 3/8" 
Angle treads 3/16"

NOW FOR THE WAY I DO THEM!!!
Do them in different thicknesses really *Makes you have to pay attention* so as I have no attention span I usually end up with 3/16 for the inner treads and wider for the out sides.
In other word what ever they turn out to be when cutting is what they are when done, just a seat of the pants method.

I made these last wheels out I think is Ash and man did I have fits getting and angled treads to work out' just the wood on hand but man what a pain.
Use maple if you can, that's what the wood wheel maker company's use for a reason, but I've made nice wheels with oak, walnut, mahogany,.
I should add the straight cut treads worked ok it's the angled treads that really need the better woods.

Bud my jig is adjustable too just not shown very well in these pictures.
Here's my blog on it.


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

htl said:


> *Cutting out the wheel blanks.*
> 
> There's a hundred ways to cut out the blanks for the wheels but here's my method.
> 
> ...


Jason did you mean tires or rims in your last post as you said something about rims?
I have blogs on making rims some where. lol
one
two

I'm always changing the way I do things but here's how I do the centers now.
I buy small wheels from Hobby Lobby as their maple, so hold together really well, plus they already have a nice shape to them so saves me some work and adds just that little extra..
three


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

htl said:


> *Cutting out the wheel blanks.*
> 
> There's a hundred ways to cut out the blanks for the wheels but here's my method.
> 
> ...


I'm no Pro as I build just for me.
I've been trying to come up with a nice tire that doesn't take weeks to build, and over a 3 year time span this is where I'm at now.
If you check out my blogs from day one you can see my progress, with Dutchy's help and a ton a searches I have combined a ton a different styles to be able to *build a fast, and safe* tire and rim.

I like to work fast so to be safe I came up with this jig for making tire treads, many at a time with an indexer to keep everything matched up and just put in the parts and the jig does the work and my hands stay out of the way.
And like Bud Baker my eyes arn't what they used to be and my attention span is nil so the indexer and stop blocks on the jig keeps me safe.
There's always a better way but this is what works for me at this time.


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

*Wheel Making Part One Rim Making Jig for my Wheels.*

It seems I need to add some info to my Rim making jig as I took pictures but really never spelled it out step by step. so!

First of all this is what we're after.


















Now how do we get to this point.
I like to use bought wheels for my rims as they are made of maple and can be shaped quite nicely, maybe that's why the wheel makers use it, plus they already have a nice shape and at Hobby Lobby their pretty cheap for the 1" & 1 1/2" wheels.

1. We need a base, I have tons of 3/4" ply so that's what I use.








Notice that the plywood is next to the fence,always keep it next to the fence, Find center and drill a 1/4 hole but not quite all the way through.

2. Now glue a 1/4" dowel in the hole, it needs to be long enough to be glued to the base go up through the indexer and hold the rim blank.. Your base is now ready.
3. You need to make some type of indexer I have blogged about them and there are many videos out there.









Once you've marked your indexer on some plywood drill out the center hole 1/4" and place on the base over the dowel. As in the picture.
4. Now you need to slide the base over so you can drill the holes for the indexing pin to be set. 
[this is the small bolt with the fender washer in the picture.]
5. Clamp the base down next to the fence once you find your indexing distance..
6. You can now turn the indexer and drill the holes at the 5 places needed. [I drilled 10]
You will now be able to turn the indexer to any of the drilled spots.

+++ if you'll notice I'm making a 5 hole rim so need 5 index points *BUT* I also want some lug bolt holes to go between them so need to have a ten point indexer to get the job done.+++









7. Now you need to place one of you rim blanks on the jig unclamp the base and find where you think the spoke holes will look the best, then clamp the base back down at this point and be sure the base is up to the fence, always use the fence for you guide. 
You may not need it but if some thing changes you have some thing to go by.
8. You now need to drill a hole using one of the index holes as a guide so you can put the index pin in to hold the indexer in place [Use a hand held drill for this] This will go almost through the base plywood.
You should now be able to turn the indexer to the 10 different points needed, slide in the pin and it will hold the spot to be drilled.
9. Use a 3/8 drill bit for you rim drilling bit. [You can use a different size bit but I have other uses for the hole that you'll hear about later.]
It really doesn't matter where you start drilling. I do like starting all my hole at the same index point, so mark it., and remember we will be using every other hole for the rims and then switch when we want to do the lug nuts. 
+++The base will have to be changed [slid over] for the lug nut holes as you need it in closer to the center of the tire,

Make sure you drill the first rim hole almost through the indexer plywood as you will need to put a 3/8 dowel to hold the rim in place for the rest of the holes.

Now place the dowel to keep every thing in line and work your way around..





























































There you go a nice rim that can be sanded down to fit in your tire.



















Once the jig is made you can make tons a rims in minutes with out ever having to mark any thing again.
Be sure to keep a few extra rims around, that way when you get ready to make a set a rims next time just set the base on the drill table put in one of the extras and its a snap to line everything up.

10. Now if you really want to get fancy you can shape the rim holes with a router bit with a 3/8 guide bearing [This is why I use the 3/8" bit so a 3/8" router bearing will fit in the hole.]
+++Some times I need to drill the holes out a little so the bearing will go in easier.
You need to be *extra careful doing* this so use a toggle clamp or *some other hold down to be SAFE.














































*Be sure to use a hold down,* the bearing does most of the work of guiding but *BE SAFE OR IT AIN'T WORTH DOING.*

*This is NOT MY $.02 BUT A MUST!!!!!*

#4 Over and Out

Go to Part Two


----------



## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

htl said:


> *Wheel Making Part One Rim Making Jig for my Wheels.*
> 
> It seems I need to add some info to my Rim making jig as I took pictures but really never spelled it out step by step. so!
> 
> ...


Thanks for the clear blog on wheel making.


----------



## Dutchy (Jun 18, 2012)

htl said:


> *Wheel Making Part One Rim Making Jig for my Wheels.*
> 
> It seems I need to add some info to my Rim making jig as I took pictures but really never spelled it out step by step. so!
> 
> ...


I like the idea and will use it on my moulding unit.


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

htl said:


> *Wheel Making Part One Rim Making Jig for my Wheels.*
> 
> It seems I need to add some info to my Rim making jig as I took pictures but really never spelled it out step by step. so!
> 
> ...


Great jig thank you Bruce. 
Appreciate you sharing hour "know how" along with beaut notes and photos.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

htl said:


> *Wheel Making Part One Rim Making Jig for my Wheels.*
> 
> It seems I need to add some info to my Rim making jig as I took pictures but really never spelled it out step by step. so!
> 
> ...


Humm,... a bit odd… I thought it was a worthwile 2c worth.


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

htl said:


> *Wheel Making Part One Rim Making Jig for my Wheels.*
> 
> It seems I need to add some info to my Rim making jig as I took pictures but really never spelled it out step by step. so!
> 
> ...


Well it could be but I live in Alabama, where I believe it's a tad cooler about now. LOL

I don't know why but I had it in my head you lived in Canada till I saw that strange looking lizard on your 2c???
I should a known better as I've seen you hanging around with Crowie


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

htl said:


> *Wheel Making Part One Rim Making Jig for my Wheels.*
> 
> It seems I need to add some info to my Rim making jig as I took pictures but really never spelled it out step by step. so!
> 
> ...


Yo Bruce,

Only because you asked:-

Temperature here Brisbane about 25 deg C Sydney about 22 deg C and dry as!

Crowie a very clever man, and has an even more interesting workshop!

The 2c coin
Its our Frilled neck Lizard, no longer used but it is still legal tender, and if you find one without Stuart Devlins initials (SD) near its right toe its a very valuable coin now.










Thats my 2c worth


----------



## darkmyble (Aug 12, 2017)

htl said:


> *Wheel Making Part One Rim Making Jig for my Wheels.*
> 
> It seems I need to add some info to my Rim making jig as I took pictures but really never spelled it out step by step. so!
> 
> ...


I can't tell you how much these posts from you are invaluable and one of the best sources of information any like-minded toy/model builder could want or need. I follow your posts avidly not only because they're a great source of technical know-how but also the amount of detail you deliver, the style in which you deliver your knowledge and ingenuity. It's amazing.. Thank you


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

htl said:


> *Wheel Making Part One Rim Making Jig for my Wheels.*
> 
> It seems I need to add some info to my Rim making jig as I took pictures but really never spelled it out step by step. so!
> 
> ...


I can only agree Darkmyble (funny name will have to sus that one out later)

From my point of view they have all inspired me to learn how to make wheels.
Something I have been putting off for quite some time.
I even discussed the matter at length when I had the opportunity to visit LJ Crowie a few months ago.
However I now have a circle jig and a kerfing jig both from LBD soon to be known as FBD from emails I received today.

LBD and I also discussed via email the process and getting on with it and I guess thats all thats needed to commence, no doubt I will possible make some BC type wheels first up but hell at least they are made from wood.

I started some time ago by attempting to make a model of my motorcycle 3 Spoker, thats still the aim/mission so I guess progress will be pending, the rims and hubs is certainly inspiring. Standby for some oddball questions coming your way! ...Buzzzt wait out.


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

*Wheel making Part Two Step by Step With a Simple Jig*

A quick wheel making how2 using pictures from some of my blog posts.
This is a very simple tread pattern that will look great but doesn't take three weeks to make.
Once you have the jig made and the steps figured out for your tools you can make these wheels in hours not days *fast and safe!!*

*I have added extra ideas to the end so don't miss them.*

Haven't been able to get in the shop lately so thought I would play around with making a wheels making How2.
This is for those that just need a few wheels but want something just that little bit nicer.
Once you get it figured out and the jig made, this is a very simple easy and fast way to add that little extra to your models.

Please remember as you read through this, we're making the wheels pictured at the start and not the split tread wheels which take a lot more work, but once you master this jig your on your way to some interesting wheels.

**
Here's what we're aiming for.










So first prepare some blanks. 
Cut these wider than needed.









We're going to be making 3/4" wheels but some pictures will show thinner. [keep this in mind]








Now's a good time to plain and or sand.

Draw a line down the center and draw out the wheel blanks, make bigger than needed so you can sand them to size later.










Drill out the centers with a 1/4" bit or what matches your hole saw's drill bit.










Now cut out the wheel blanks but they don't need to be close because we're going to use the disk sander to get then just right, the disk sander will make sure the wheels are right with the axle holes.










*Extra pictures.*



















Now we have our wheel blanks, lets put them on the disk sander wheel jig.
There's many how to's for making them, Ducky has a great one but mine works with the Shop Smith.




































Now we have our blanks made it's time to make some treads.









These are picture of when I made my Hummer wheels, so some picture will show making the angled cuts but just look at them for the placement of parts.

The toys and joys wheels use 36 treads for most truck wheels, so you need a paper pattern to glue on your wheel blanks so you'll know where to cut each tread. Sounds like fun doesn't it!!!

Ryobi makes a great drill set at Home Depot.










You could now mount the blanks to the tread cutting jig that I will be showing you and cut using these 36 marks on the paper glued to the blanks. Lining them up with a mark on the top of the jig fence. Holding the blank in place as you go around and line up and cut each mark. This is how Toys and Joys shows you how to do in their plans.
But my eye sight isn't that good and I don't like holding the wood in place for every cut so I made a jig for this.
You could stop here and just use the jig and get some nice wheels but the jig with an indexer and clamp make the wheel cutting more consistent and safer to me. When you're cutting out for four wheels fine but the semi and trailer needs 18 to 22 so the jig will save your nerves and be safer. lol
Just my $.02

If you have made a sliding table for your saw you can just add the jig to it.
As you can see in the pictures below it all works with that board bolted to the miter gauge, so just screw or bolt the jig to your sled as it will do the same thing as most miter gauges which are junk.

At the time I followed the directions from T&Y's for the jig using my miter gauge, so that's what picture I have.

This is what we are going to be making.









Remember you could just stick a bolt through the board, bolt it down and using a knob to hold the blank.

I love making jigs and knew I would be making lots a wheels so wanted something better faster safer.

It surprises me now how many models I made wheels for with this jig.

If I knew what I know now I would have got on Ebay and bought a small indexer plate of $15-20.









This is what I use now to make my indexers, they come with different number a holes but we want one with 36.

You could make your own and it will work just fine but I have found as my wheels get more complicated I need the indexer to be spot on.
You won't need this at this time just putting ideas in your head for later. LOL

So not knowing about indexers at the time I made one using the table saw and my sled.










First we need a wood base bolted to the miter Gauge that will hang over the saw blade slat and slid on the table.
Next find the center of the blade by running this board through the saw, now we know where to drill a hole for the axle bolt. We're making this for just one size wheel but you could make it adjustable but here we're after the basics. Truck tires for the T&J are usually 2 7/8 or there about, so half of that would be close to where we would want to drill our hole for the bolt.
By raising and lowering the blade you can cut different size wheels.

The longer the all thread the more blanks you can cut at one time but if it hangs out to far you'll need to add a board to keep the bolt from sagging and moving about, that's when the fancier jigs come into play.

OK! Keeping it simple, see where the aluminum comes through the base, that's the center of the wheel and marks where the blade will cut through the blank, by using the paper pattern glued to the blanks you can line up the blank to the base mark and make all your cuts. EASY!! RIGHT!!!

If you were to hold it, it can slip or like me I have trouble seeing the mark to get it just right.
But for now keeping it simple. Which is very hard for me, I want to soap it up, Stop #4 just stop it!!!










So we have the base bolted to the miter gauge.
A hole for the bolt to go throw, now lets make the way so the wheels won't move while cutting.

Take one of your extra wheel blanks, [you are making extras arn't you???] with the 1/4 holes in the center, we want some all thread to go through both sides and we will bolt it to the blank.
The nuts that lock the all thread to the blank need to be flush so we can bolt the wheels up to the blank and the blank can be tightened up to the base board.










Once the all thread is bolted to the blank your all set to add a wheel or wheels and lock them down.









The picture above I was making treads for the Hummer a much bigger wheel.
The picture below I'm making treads for my semi which has much smaller wheels so had to raise the blade way up. 
This is where you need the extra wood behind the jig to cover the blade as it comes through the jig.
We are making our jig for the truck wheels to start with so the raised blade will not be a problem at this time.










Now you can slide the other end of the all thread through the base and add a knob so you can lock it down.



















With the wheel blanks locked to the all thread you can now turn the whole thing on the base and lock it down at the different points to cut your treads.
It would be a good idea to add some wood at the back of the jig where the blade will be coming through just to be safe, the blade won't be up very high but I just don't like it.
You'll be cutting tons a treads, 36 per blank so can get monotonous after a while so cover that blade.

This is one of the reasons I came up with the wheel jig down the road.

The straight treads can be cut many at a time but the angled ones should be cut one at a time and you will need to change the angle for left and right treads.

Here is the blog where I made my first indexer using the table saw.
http://lumberjocks.com/htl/blog/88290

The blog where I cut all the blanks.
http://lumberjocks.com/htl/blog/127857

Another wheel making blog where some of the pictures came from.
http://lumberjocks.com/htl/blog/92618

A quick look at the newer jig.
http://lumberjocks.com/htl/blog/125801

Making the new jig.
http://lumberjocks.com/htl/blog/127169

I hope this makes sense as it's hard to make a blog for something you used 4 years ago and there's so many things that could be added.
I need to get this posted before something goes wrong but will be up dating it as the day goes on.

*I keep thinking of other things to add and this is the place.*

+++This blog will need to be read many times before it starts making any sense,and as you get started just do the first steps get that done then on to the next, if you try to see it all at one time it can look over whelming but step by step and you'll get er done and all will be clear.+++

++++ The more I think about this project I come up with ways to make them even faster and easier. If $$$ isn't a problem you could buy 2 3/4 store bought wheels and just add tread to them. I did this on one of my Bod Cats and had a cool looking 1 1/2 tractor tread really quickly.










The BUT to this is the big store bought wheels use a 3/8 hole so you will need to change a few things but one advantage is that 3/8 all thread is much stiffer so your jig will be stronger in the long run. I have been thinking of switching to 3/8 for my jigs for this reason.

One more thing.
When making something to hold your tires between tread cuts.
Be careful using quick change mechanisms that might slip or be sloppy, we're working with wood so things can and will be loss.
One thing I found out with my finger joint jig was if you would put pressure to the right as you cut parts and the fingers were to tight, the next one I did I would put pressure to the right make a cut and then put pressure to the left and make a cut and all would be well. In other words theirs play, may be just 1/32 or so but with 36 treads per tire it can make a difference. 
So what I'm trying to say is always keep the same pressure on all cuts it doesn't matter if you hold it to the right or left just do it the same every time or some teeth will be wider than others and you will be wondering why.

One more area I need to add is the saw blade and I've been using the Dewalt 7 1/4" Thin Kerf blades for this thanks for reminding me stefang.

Home Depot doesn't seem to be selling the blade I was using any more but their 
40 Dewalt looks interesting.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-FLEXVOLT-7-1-4-in-60-Teeth-Carbide-Tipped-Circular-Saw-Blade-DWAFV3760/207202127

If and when you get one keep it for your tread cutting chores as once you start using them you'll not want to use any thing else on a small Dewalt style table saw.
They are super sharp and that's what we want but we need to keep it that way, helps keep the chipping to a minimum.
If you do like using the smaller blades be sure you're using the right blade for the job.
40 and 60 tooth for cross cutting and 24 and the like for every thing else.
For long rips stick with the 10" blades and I was surprised at how good the blade that came with the saw was for this.

How about one more? LOL
If you cut your treads a little deep when you start sanding and have chips they can be sanded out on the disk sander, then on to the drill press to hand sand and round the edges for a real tire look.

Closer grained wood works much better for these treads as they can stand the cutting and shaping better.
Oak walnut cherry these all so can be blackened much better with the home made steel wool and vinegar stains.

There's one more area I need to talk about but I'll make a new blog for that.

So this is for a fast safe nice looking wheel for our models.
 
Go to Part Three

#4 over and out.


----------



## oldrivers (Feb 10, 2014)

htl said:


> *Wheel making Part Two Step by Step With a Simple Jig*
> 
> A quick wheel making how2 using pictures from some of my blog posts.
> This is a very simple tread pattern that will look great but doesn't take three weeks to make.
> ...


Love to work with good jigs and it looks like you have an abundance of them, the weather will break soon and let the work begin.


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

htl said:


> *Wheel making Part Two Step by Step With a Simple Jig*
> 
> A quick wheel making how2 using pictures from some of my blog posts.
> This is a very simple tread pattern that will look great but doesn't take three weeks to make.
> ...


I am a jig junky and I can never leave well enough alone and have to come up with something else, it's more fun than modeling. LOL
It just hit me,* I model so I can make jigs, sad but true!!!*

I made this blog because some had asked for more info on wheel making.
I've blogged about this as I figured out what works for my feeble brain and the tools at hand on a day by day bases so not very organized for some one wanting to get a grip on it.
It never fails but I also changed it up with every model build coming up with some new idea for the jig.


----------



## FrenchGoattoys (Jan 31, 2019)

htl said:


> *Wheel making Part Two Step by Step With a Simple Jig*
> 
> A quick wheel making how2 using pictures from some of my blog posts.
> This is a very simple tread pattern that will look great but doesn't take three weeks to make.
> ...


Thanks for sharing, Htl. Us newbe model/toy builders need all the hints we can get.


----------



## Woodbridge (Oct 12, 2011)

htl said:


> *Wheel making Part Two Step by Step With a Simple Jig*
> 
> A quick wheel making how2 using pictures from some of my blog posts.
> This is a very simple tread pattern that will look great but doesn't take three weeks to make.
> ...


I have not made many toys so far and the ones I did used purchased wheels. Thanks for sharing this information. I've often wondered how the wheels and tread are made.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

htl said:


> *Wheel making Part Two Step by Step With a Simple Jig*
> 
> A quick wheel making how2 using pictures from some of my blog posts.
> This is a very simple tread pattern that will look great but doesn't take three weeks to make.
> ...


Very informative HTL, now I have an idea of how these wheels are made, so I will have an idea of what I'm getting into if I should ever make the kind of models they belong to.


----------



## hunter71 (Sep 4, 2009)

htl said:


> *Wheel making Part Two Step by Step With a Simple Jig*
> 
> A quick wheel making how2 using pictures from some of my blog posts.
> This is a very simple tread pattern that will look great but doesn't take three weeks to make.
> ...


A bit more exact than my jig. I am glad you posted this as can't count the times I have been asked to show someone how they are made. Your a damn good teacher.


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

htl said:


> *Wheel making Part Two Step by Step With a Simple Jig*
> 
> A quick wheel making how2 using pictures from some of my blog posts.
> This is a very simple tread pattern that will look great but doesn't take three weeks to make.
> ...


Thanks GUY"S as I was having miss givings about kinda going all over the place with it.
It's so much easier to blog when you have step by step pictures you have taken as you build.
Just down load a picture say something, down load the next say something and so on.
Thanks all!!!


----------



## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

htl said:


> *Wheel making Part Two Step by Step With a Simple Jig*
> 
> A quick wheel making how2 using pictures from some of my blog posts.
> This is a very simple tread pattern that will look great but doesn't take three weeks to make.
> ...


Thank you for this valuable blog. I am going to search ebay for the indexing plate.


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

htl said:


> *Wheel making Part Two Step by Step With a Simple Jig*
> 
> A quick wheel making how2 using pictures from some of my blog posts.
> This is a very simple tread pattern that will look great but doesn't take three weeks to make.
> ...


Reaoak once you get the indexer figured out there are tons of things that can be made much easier and faster.
Like in my last jig blog, making the rims.


----------



## Budster (Jul 17, 2016)

htl said:


> *Wheel making Part Two Step by Step With a Simple Jig*
> 
> A quick wheel making how2 using pictures from some of my blog posts.
> This is a very simple tread pattern that will look great but doesn't take three weeks to make.
> ...


That should make my wheels a lot easier. Thank you.


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

htl said:


> *Wheel making Part Two Step by Step With a Simple Jig*
> 
> A quick wheel making how2 using pictures from some of my blog posts.
> This is a very simple tread pattern that will look great but doesn't take three weeks to make.
> ...


Another excellent tutorial by the master…..

Top Jig and beaut written notes Bruce, and thank you heaps for all the photos as they help lots…'


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

htl said:


> *Wheel making Part Two Step by Step With a Simple Jig*
> 
> A quick wheel making how2 using pictures from some of my blog posts.
> This is a very simple tread pattern that will look great but doesn't take three weeks to make.
> ...


Fascinating to watch someone who knows what they are doing. Some of the best wheels I've ever seen made.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

htl said:


> *Wheel making Part Two Step by Step With a Simple Jig*
> 
> A quick wheel making how2 using pictures from some of my blog posts.
> This is a very simple tread pattern that will look great but doesn't take three weeks to make.
> ...


I forgot to ask. Are you using a thin kerf saw blade for the tread cuts?


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

htl said:


> *Wheel making Part Two Step by Step With a Simple Jig*
> 
> A quick wheel making how2 using pictures from some of my blog posts.
> This is a very simple tread pattern that will look great but doesn't take three weeks to make.
> ...


Yes I am stefang and I've been meaning to add that as I thought about it at 3am this morning and forgot to add. Thank you!!!

If any one can think of any thing I missed or not made clear please ask, some one here can surely help.


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

htl said:


> *Wheel making Part Two Step by Step With a Simple Jig*
> 
> A quick wheel making how2 using pictures from some of my blog posts.
> This is a very simple tread pattern that will look great but doesn't take three weeks to make.
> ...


Thank you for this valuable blog. I am going to search ebay for the indexing plate.

- Redoak49

When you find one, I had a fit figuring a way to center it or should I say find the center to mount it.
I found that one of my hole saw bits fit snug in the hole so was able to drill down a tad and then mount and add the 3 screws needed to hold it down.
May save you a small headache.


----------



## bushmaster (Feb 25, 2012)

htl said:


> *Wheel making Part Two Step by Step With a Simple Jig*
> 
> A quick wheel making how2 using pictures from some of my blog posts.
> This is a very simple tread pattern that will look great but doesn't take three weeks to make.
> ...


Thanks for sharing your ideas in such a complete way. it take allot of time to do what you do.


----------



## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

htl said:


> *Wheel making Part Two Step by Step With a Simple Jig*
> 
> A quick wheel making how2 using pictures from some of my blog posts.
> This is a very simple tread pattern that will look great but doesn't take three weeks to make.
> ...


#4 thank you so very much for taking the time to do this blogging as i just cant seem to get er done uuummmmm where have i heard that before LOL these jigs are most excellent and I do understand them only think with me I am horrible at making jigs I have my bandsaw for 2 years now still have not made a circle cutter for it nor the disc sander nor the 1 year old table saw I also dont talk much so hope you know this is the most I have ever typed well 2 finger pecked at LOL :<)))) *OR* :<((((((( I will let you deside


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

htl said:


> *Wheel making Part Two Step by Step With a Simple Jig*
> 
> A quick wheel making how2 using pictures from some of my blog posts.
> This is a very simple tread pattern that will look great but doesn't take three weeks to make.
> ...


Tony all my typing is two finger but they're very strong!!!
I taught myself to type using all my fingers but start tripping over them as I try to type fast no to lose the thought, so the two finger method gets er done more better. lol
I too have not built a circle cutter as the small wheels we make just doesn't make the cutter seem safe to me.
I never blogged before I came to this site and well one other the Mere Mortals site years ago and it has really surprised me what I could have never done [or wanted to] back in school all those many years ago, 1960's

It's been a labor of love and joy writing about model building.


----------



## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

htl said:


> *Wheel making Part Two Step by Step With a Simple Jig*
> 
> A quick wheel making how2 using pictures from some of my blog posts.
> This is a very simple tread pattern that will look great but doesn't take three weeks to make.
> ...


A really nice write up of this process.
The details provided sure make very good looking wheels!


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

htl said:


> *Wheel making Part Two Step by Step With a Simple Jig*
> 
> A quick wheel making how2 using pictures from some of my blog posts.
> This is a very simple tread pattern that will look great but doesn't take three weeks to make.
> ...


This has been an on going [5 year] search for a wheel making system that can be repeated.
I wanted a fast safe way to get it done.
Dutchy was the match that started this fire, his search for a realistic wheel got my attention just as I was discovering model building.
His way of building fit my notion of how it could be done just right.
There are a hundred ways to do this as seen by so many beautiful models out there but I have searched and searched but not many are willing to show how they come about their wheels or for that matter any part of the building process.
Because of YouTube things have gotten better but still it's mostly a quick look for viewers.

A little back ground.
I was not new to wood working as I've made my living helping to build houses, water treatment plants and even hammered a few nails helping to build and remodel dams as a carpinter-welder in Alabama, 









but my first love has always been cabinet and furniture building. 
I had a one man cabinet shop in the 80's got into building cabinets & [Bars] for restaurants and malls.










This type of wood working can if not careful burn out the love of wood working so be careful what you wish for.
I got side tracked from my wood working by 8 years of mussel diving the Alabama rivers and then 12 years chicken house equipment installation.

Once retired needing something to do one winter I picked up a doll house kit at Hobby Lobby and my wood working took it's hold on me again.



















And from there you can check out my projects page. LOL
I'll quite reminiscing now.

#4 over and out.


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

*Wheel Making Part 3 Making the rim hole.*

*Part 3 of our wheel making project.*

Having trouble finding the center of the wheel to drill the rim hole?
Here's the way I get er done.










Have a 3/4 plywood base clamped to the drill press table.
Now drill a 1/4" hole almost through the base and glue in a short wood dowel.
The wheel blanks you have made in another of these blogs will fit over the dowel and be centered.
You can now change the bit to a hole saw or Forstner bit and it will be center of the tire, do not drill all the way through at this time, need to save that dowel center.
A wood clamp works great for holding the tires, some sand paper on the base would help keep the tire from spinning.
Home Depot has a Ryobi Forstner bit set that is just right for our projects $20 or so, it's biggest bit is a 1 1/8" which works great for the center hole. They do have a bigger bit set but it's getting up there $$$

Doing it this way your tires can already be treaded.
Sorry no good pictures of this.










If you leave this little bit a wood on the back of the wheel it can be used to drill out the axle hole after the rim is added.

We can now take the rims we made in part one of our wheel making blog and sand them down to fit in the 1 1/8" holes, just be sure you make you rims larger than the holes, need I say more. lol









If you were to add just a bit of and angle while sanding the centers they could be wedged in for a super tight fit I would think, as I've never needed to try this.









Now we need the grooves for the tread going the other way.
I use the table saw again and have it set so the treads match up, this will be maybe 1/8 or so so not going to be cutting much wood are we?
I mark on the table saw fence where the center of the blade is then placing a wheel centered to this mark, I will now know where to clamp a stop block behind the wheel.














































See those tooth picks for lug nuts, this is done with the jig in part one of our how2's, remember those extra jig holes we didn't use well there they are.

Hope this helps and maybe some can add even more help.

There's a hundred ways to get it done you just need to figure out which one will work for you and the tools at hand.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

htl said:


> *Wheel Making Part 3 Making the rim hole.*
> 
> *Part 3 of our wheel making project.*
> 
> ...


Great tutorial!


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

htl said:


> *Wheel Making Part 3 Making the rim hole.*
> 
> *Part 3 of our wheel making project.*
> 
> ...


It's amazing the detail you make with this procedure. Excellent.


----------



## oldrivers (Feb 10, 2014)

htl said:


> *Wheel Making Part 3 Making the rim hole.*
> 
> *Part 3 of our wheel making project.*
> 
> ...


Looking ******************** I like the pictorial guide.


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

*Building a wheel indexer*

Been thinking about building a new Low Boy Trailer and Semi so will be needing at least 22 tires and rims so thought I better make a better rim indexer, so here's what I came up with.

I got on the net looking for a 10 point indexer to print out and just didn't find one that fit the bill and then remembered one of Ducky's posts about Matthias Wandel's free Wooden gears program for making wooden gears

So went over there and played around till I got just the indexer I needed.
I ended up making both a 36 and 10 point indexers.
Here's a shot of the page with the settings I used to take out all the gear making stuff and ended up with just the indexer I needed.
I tried to make the picture bigger but LJ's wouldn't let it happen.








The biggest thing is setting the *gear 1 teeth* to what ever amount of teeth you need and the turning off all the other thing not needed.
I then zoomed it out to the size needed and used Windows 10 *snipping tool *to copy and print the screen.
Matthel's program can print it out but was to small, there's probable a way around this but just used the snippet program instead.

I now had the two indexers printed out so off to the shop to play with them.

I don't know why but I started out making the 36 point indexer, [even though I was needing the 10 point indexer] for my rims, but the info works for both???

1 I selected a nice flat 3/4 plywood for the base, want it *wide enough to be able to clamp to sides of drill table.*

2 *lock down the fence* so the plywood is center [center not critical but just like it better]

3 Drill a 1/4" hole where you will glue in a dowel to hold the indexer in place. [plywood is up against the fence and centered on the table.]

The dowel needs to be glued into the base and go through the indexer and be high enough to hold the wheel blank, so make it long you can cut it down later.










4 Now we make up the indexer.
Glue your printed out indexer on some plywood and drill out the center with a 1/4" brad bit. [use a brad bit so you can be as accurate as possible with all your drilling]


















5 make an index pin now so you'll know what size to drill all the index holes. [ It can be seen in later pictures]

6 Now putting the indexer over the dowel, slide the base over till you are in line with the first index mark. Clamp the base down when you have it set just right and it's time to drill all the index points.
The indexer is now made.

















7 Now to drill out for the index pin hole so we can lock the indexer at each point when needed.
I will hand drill one of the points close to me so it's easy to find.
I also mark this point on the base to help find it while drilling.
As you can see in the picture I also mark one point as top and will always us it to start and stop my drilling.


















*Now at this time I don't need to go any farther with the 36 point indexer so will switch over to making a 5 point indexer for my mag rims.*

Here's what I really need to be working for.









The 5 spoke rim looks really nice on the cars and a six spoke rim with a bigger rim looks nice on the semi's, for this how 2 we'll make a* 5 point rim jig*.

So now back to jig making.
As you will see in the next picture we're using a 5 point indexer,
if I was really making one for tires a 10 point index would work much better as after I have the 5 spokes made I could go right back and drill out for lag bolts between and below the spokes, so keep this in mind for your jigs. 
When making a index jig, drilling more index points than needed will take a little more time but can save tons of time down the road, that why the 36 point indexer was made but will not let me make 5 point rims but works great for 6 point rims I will need for the semi later on.
This 5 point jig is just for the how2.

*
OK back to work!!!*
I'm using *1 1/2" store bought wheels in this how to* but you will see some wood blanks used later on.
When I make my semi rims I will probable use 2" store bought wheels for my rims.
The 2" wheels have a larger center so works great for lug nuts.









8 Place a 1 1/2" wheel over the dowel on our 5 point indexer.
I will be using a 3/8 brad bit or fastener bit depending on how close to the edge of the tire the hole will be drilled.
Now we need to *unclamp* the base and slide it to where we want the drill to drill out for the spokes.
With the wheels I'm using I'll drill it just past the wood ring on the tire rim.
Once you've figured out what looks good make an extra rim so next time you need to figure it out just place you extra rim on the dowel and you got it.










9 *Once you've found the right spot clamp the base back down *and your set to start drilling holes.
Put the index pin in the top spot and drill you first hole, drill almost all the way through the 3/4 indexer plywood because your going to put a 3/8 dowel in this first hole to hold the wheel in place as you drill the other holes as you work your way around.



























You may be thinking those are pretty ugly looking holes but remember they will be drum sanded down to fit in the tires so all the ugly will be gone.

You could stop here and have one nice looking rim but lets go one step farther and add a little shaping to the hole we've drilled.
Since I used a 3/8 drill bit for the spoke holes and a router can be fitted with a 3/8" bearing you have what you need to shape out the spoke centers.

*This is a job that needs hold downs and clamps so think it through and be safe or don't do it.
This just shows it can be done but you have different tools to use so have to come up with the safest way to get it do.
*



























Now I'm making some rims out of wood blanks.









Here's our wheels all set up.









Remember that if I had made the 10 point jig I could now go back and moving the indexer closer to center could drill out all the lag nuts with out marking anything and would be done with it in minutes.

For me building jigs is just as much fun as building the models, and when you have a ton a wheels to make jigs gets it done fast fun and safely.


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

htl said:


> *Building a wheel indexer*
> 
> Been thinking about building a new Low Boy Trailer and Semi so will be needing at least 22 tires and rims so thought I better make a better rim indexer, so here's what I came up with.
> 
> ...


Thank you heaps Bruce for a first class tutorial by a master craftsman.

Thank you for sharing your "know how", photos and notes to help so many others of us…


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

htl said:


> *Building a wheel indexer*
> 
> Been thinking about building a new Low Boy Trailer and Semi so will be needing at least 22 tires and rims so thought I better make a better rim indexer, so here's what I came up with.
> 
> ...


Haven't been able to get in the shop here lately but can still have some wood working fun adding to the blog.
Thanks Crowie!!!


----------



## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

htl said:


> *Building a wheel indexer*
> 
> Been thinking about building a new Low Boy Trailer and Semi so will be needing at least 22 tires and rims so thought I better make a better rim indexer, so here's what I came up with.
> 
> ...


Thanks for showing how you made these. I have worked at making index wheels and gotten better but still not up to your level.

I cheated a bit and had my son 3d print index wheels with a variety of number of holes.


----------



## oldrivers (Feb 10, 2014)

htl said:


> *Building a wheel indexer*
> 
> Been thinking about building a new Low Boy Trailer and Semi so will be needing at least 22 tires and rims so thought I better make a better rim indexer, so here's what I came up with.
> 
> ...


Good tutorial thanks for sharing.


----------



## hookfoot (Jan 23, 2013)

htl said:


> *Building a wheel indexer*
> 
> Been thinking about building a new Low Boy Trailer and Semi so will be needing at least 22 tires and rims so thought I better make a better rim indexer, so here's what I came up with.
> 
> ...


Wonderful tutorial. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

htl said:


> *Building a wheel indexer*
> 
> Been thinking about building a new Low Boy Trailer and Semi so will be needing at least 22 tires and rims so thought I better make a better rim indexer, so here's what I came up with.
> 
> ...


Cool 3d printing can come at it from a different angle.
Love seeing the many different ways this project can be done.
As you all know I've shown a bunch a different ways to make rims and tires well it's just me coming at it from a one at a time angle to trying to make it faster safer and better.
Wanting to get away from having to measure and mark every hole, to putting in a blank and drilling or cutting the parts, and I'm not saying I want to mass produce the whole thing just the parts where there are 10-20 parts like with wheels.


----------



## bushmaster (Feb 25, 2012)

htl said:


> *Building a wheel indexer*
> 
> Been thinking about building a new Low Boy Trailer and Semi so will be needing at least 22 tires and rims so thought I better make a better rim indexer, so here's what I came up with.
> 
> ...


Your method are always very interesting. enjoyed seeing your jig and the most interesting wheels you produce,.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

htl said:


> *Building a wheel indexer*
> 
> Been thinking about building a new Low Boy Trailer and Semi so will be needing at least 22 tires and rims so thought I better make a better rim indexer, so here's what I came up with.
> 
> ...


Great work and an excellent indexing jig.

In case you are not aware, there are several websites that can very easily generate indexing plates for printing so you won't have to work with the gears. Here is just one of them.


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

htl said:


> *Building a wheel indexer*
> 
> Been thinking about building a new Low Boy Trailer and Semi so will be needing at least 22 tires and rims so thought I better make a better rim indexer, so here's what I came up with.
> 
> ...


Thanks Mike!
I knew there were others [I had seen them years ago] but they didn't come up in my search for one for some reason.


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

htl said:


> *Building a wheel indexer*
> 
> Been thinking about building a new Low Boy Trailer and Semi so will be needing at least 22 tires and rims so thought I better make a better rim indexer, so here's what I came up with.
> 
> ...





> Haven t been able to get in the shop here lately but can still have some wood working fun adding to the blog.
> Thanks Crowie!!!
> 
> - htl


Not good to hear you're out of the shed Bruce BUT thank you sir for continuing to share your knowledge and know how; very much appreciated thank you.


----------

