# Upcoming projects and designs.



## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

*Inspiration, starting the design process...*

I've been pretty much in awe of the talent, and creativity that flows from the shops of many of the members here. I have recently had projects that needed a LOT of hand planing, and sanding, and the size, or grain orientation of the project precluded running the piece through my 13" bench top planer… A wide drum sander would be perfect!

But they are oh so expensive! What to do?

Build my own! But how?

So I started browsing through the project posts, looking at your shop designed and built wide drum sanders, some of them are a little on the smallish side, I have seen one that had a 12" wide drum, not up to the task I need… But many others over 18", I believe I saw one at 32" even!

After looking at the various designs, I found the following things seemed pretty consistent about the designs.

#1. The drum itself is usually a drum of plastic pipe, stiffened with wood "donuts" or a wooden cylinder with a through hole for a metal axle rod. I have durability concerns with the plastic pipe approach, and I have a lathe…. I think the wood cylinder approach is more appropriate for me…

#2. While not universal, it seems that most of the designs feature a smallish power tool motor (usually 3/4 HP 110V) that is mounted on a hinged board, the weight of the motor, pulling down in an arc away from the hinge provides tension on the belt. Seems simple and effective enough.

#3. The dust hood is usually a box that covers over the top of the drum, and has a port in it for a dust hose. Simple, effective.

#4. The thickness adjustment is usually done by raising and lowering the table / bed worksurface. The simplest mechanism I have seen hinged the bed on one end, and lifted the other end.

#5. The drum / axle usually rides on a set of bearings that are captured in some kind of bracket…








(Photo from Yorkshire Stewart's project post...)

As it sits, I am sketching up the design, basically a larger version of Yorkshire Stewart's project (I want 24" width capacity, his is 18" I think…).

Those that have built their own wide drum sanders… I could sure use your advice. I have never built my own machine from scratch before.

I will post the Sketchup files and 2D shots of the project as I get further along… Just fishing for helpful ideas at this point!


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## beckerswoodworks (Dec 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Inspiration, starting the design process...*
> 
> I've been pretty much in awe of the talent, and creativity that flows from the shops of many of the members here. I have recently had projects that needed a LOT of hand planing, and sanding, and the size, or grain orientation of the project precluded running the piece through my 13" bench top planer… A wide drum sander would be perfect!
> 
> ...


I own a Delta drum sander and have never built my own but there is one recommendation I could make. That's to have the drum raise up and down rather than the table. The problem with having the table move is that it's really difficult to use additional supports. Every time the table is adjusted between passes the supports have to be adjusted also. That makes it a real painful and difficult process for long pieces. I'll never buy a drum sander like that again and I'll probobly put mine up for sale in the near future so I can get one with a drum that moves. Anyways, good luck and I hope your project is successful.

Don


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Inspiration, starting the design process...*
> 
> I've been pretty much in awe of the talent, and creativity that flows from the shops of many of the members here. I have recently had projects that needed a LOT of hand planing, and sanding, and the size, or grain orientation of the project precluded running the piece through my 13" bench top planer… A wide drum sander would be perfect!
> 
> ...


I think all of the thickness sanders (as opposed to Sand Flee type sanders) I have seen shop built elevate the table instead of the drum. My concern with raising / lowering the drum instead, is the need to raise / lower the motor as well, or lose belt tension… But it IS something worth considering…


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## Fireguy (Jul 17, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Inspiration, starting the design process...*
> 
> I've been pretty much in awe of the talent, and creativity that flows from the shops of many of the members here. I have recently had projects that needed a LOT of hand planing, and sanding, and the size, or grain orientation of the project precluded running the piece through my 13" bench top planer… A wide drum sander would be perfect!
> 
> ...


I don't think it woudl be that much harder to build the drum to move instead of the table. Turn you thinking over, Basicly place the motor and drum assembly on a table and move them up and down inside of a box, the top of the box is your table, instead of movind a table up and down over a drum and motor in a box.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Inspiration, starting the design process...*
> 
> I've been pretty much in awe of the talent, and creativity that flows from the shops of many of the members here. I have recently had projects that needed a LOT of hand planing, and sanding, and the size, or grain orientation of the project precluded running the piece through my 13" bench top planer… A wide drum sander would be perfect!
> 
> ...


Alex, that is sort of what I was thinking… Kind of like an enclosed Sand Flee with a moveable table above the drum… I may be totally off on my thinking but that is what leapt to mind…


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## jerryw (Sep 5, 2007)

dbhost said:


> *Inspiration, starting the design process...*
> 
> I've been pretty much in awe of the talent, and creativity that flows from the shops of many of the members here. I have recently had projects that needed a LOT of hand planing, and sanding, and the size, or grain orientation of the project precluded running the piece through my 13" bench top planer… A wide drum sander would be perfect!
> 
> ...


i built a 16" drum sander last summer to sand end grain cutting boards. i used 3" schedule 40 plastic pipe for the drum with a movable table. it works better than i had hoped for. i have had no problems with the drum or table. when i have a lot of cutting boards to sand this machine will run for 2 or 3 hours at a time. i had woried about heat built up on the drum to start with. that is not a problem. light passes is the key. i used a 1/2 hp motor. no problem there either. keep your design simple and you will be rewarded with a great machine. i had less than $ 100 in it. used mostly what i had laying around the shop.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Inspiration, starting the design process...*
> 
> I've been pretty much in awe of the talent, and creativity that flows from the shops of many of the members here. I have recently had projects that needed a LOT of hand planing, and sanding, and the size, or grain orientation of the project precluded running the piece through my 13" bench top planer… A wide drum sander would be perfect!
> 
> ...


Aside from the pillow block bearings, and velcro backed sandpaper rolls, I have everything I need I believe…

-- Tons of SYP 2xs and birch plywood.
-- 3/4" and / or 5/8" all thread, nuts, washers etc…
-- Did I mention birch plywood?
-- 1 HP HF bandsaw motor. (Swapped mine out for a Dayton 1.5 HP unit)
-- Link belt. Not sure I have enough, but I do have link belt…

I honestly don't think I am all that worried about a moveable table versus moveable drum. Moving the table seems a FAR easier solution, with less possibility for error.


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## jerryw (Sep 5, 2007)

dbhost said:


> *Inspiration, starting the design process...*
> 
> I've been pretty much in awe of the talent, and creativity that flows from the shops of many of the members here. I have recently had projects that needed a LOT of hand planing, and sanding, and the size, or grain orientation of the project precluded running the piece through my 13" bench top planer… A wide drum sander would be perfect!
> 
> ...


you can get 3/4 pillow block bearings from NORTHERN TOOL for $6.oo and the velco and sandpaper rolls from SUPER GRIT.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Inspiration, starting the design process...*
> 
> I've been pretty much in awe of the talent, and creativity that flows from the shops of many of the members here. I have recently had projects that needed a LOT of hand planing, and sanding, and the size, or grain orientation of the project precluded running the piece through my 13" bench top planer… A wide drum sander would be perfect!
> 
> ...


Thank you! I was wondering where to find the pillow block bearings… There is a Northern Tool by my Father In Law's place… I will be by there this weekend! Woo Hoo!


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

*A short listing of shop projects I have planned, and their statuses...*

#1. Wide Drum Sander. Picked up the all thread from Home Depot, and the pillow block bearings from Northern Tool. The design keeps fluctuating and due to the points where things can go bad fast… I have decided on moving the table to the drum, instead of the other way around. Any mechanism I have been able to come up with for raising and lowering the drum / motor to the table abounds with points of failure. I am not sold on any one design yet,.. If I run across anything that can convince me otherwise before I start buying materials, I will gladly reconsider my position….

#2. Lathe stand tool / ballast cabinet. I have the cabinet itself done as far as the design is concerned. And the drawers mostly done, but need to decide if I am going with wood slides, or if I am going to be using ball bearing slides. That will change the width of the drawers. I have noticed my local Home Depot has a sale on 3/4" cabinet grade ply for $27.99 right now… Need to pick a couple of sheets of that, and half inch up…

#3. Air Cleaner. Got the "Complete Small Shop" book from August Home Publications, plan on using their plans… Only problem I am having is sourcing up a squirrel cage blower. Most of the AC shops I talk to don't want to talk to me unless I want to buy a brand new system… I may end up buying a PSI AC620 instead..

The lathe cabinet will be my first solo built cabinet, first drawers, etc… I am pretty excited about getting started, I just hope I am doing this right. I guess we will all find out…

Each new project builds the skills back up, and reduces stress. This is all a good thing…


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *A short listing of shop projects I have planned, and their statuses...*
> 
> #1. Wide Drum Sander. Picked up the all thread from Home Depot, and the pillow block bearings from Northern Tool. The design keeps fluctuating and due to the points where things can go bad fast… I have decided on moving the table to the drum, instead of the other way around. Any mechanism I have been able to come up with for raising and lowering the drum / motor to the table abounds with points of failure. I am not sold on any one design yet,.. If I run across anything that can convince me otherwise before I start buying materials, I will gladly reconsider my position….
> 
> ...


I hand the OCD crown back to you …..............(-:


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *A short listing of shop projects I have planned, and their statuses...*
> 
> #1. Wide Drum Sander. Picked up the all thread from Home Depot, and the pillow block bearings from Northern Tool. The design keeps fluctuating and due to the points where things can go bad fast… I have decided on moving the table to the drum, instead of the other way around. Any mechanism I have been able to come up with for raising and lowering the drum / motor to the table abounds with points of failure. I am not sold on any one design yet,.. If I run across anything that can convince me otherwise before I start buying materials, I will gladly reconsider my position….
> 
> ...


I work with engineers… Need I say more?


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *A short listing of shop projects I have planned, and their statuses...*
> 
> #1. Wide Drum Sander. Picked up the all thread from Home Depot, and the pillow block bearings from Northern Tool. The design keeps fluctuating and due to the points where things can go bad fast… I have decided on moving the table to the drum, instead of the other way around. Any mechanism I have been able to come up with for raising and lowering the drum / motor to the table abounds with points of failure. I am not sold on any one design yet,.. If I run across anything that can convince me otherwise before I start buying materials, I will gladly reconsider my position….
> 
> ...


Refresh my memory on how you are going to add ballast, I think that was one of your motives in the lathe cabinet construction. And are you using the the metal stand legs, or are you reconstructing the whole thing from the lathe bed down?

Re the drum sander. I can't remember doing anything that complex, at least not in recent memory. I would worry about wood versus metal in terms of durability and maintaining settings, guess I would want to do it with a lot of metal in it, even if it were angle iron and rod. Angle iron, bolts and nuts…........I have built some rugged items over the years using that construction.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *A short listing of shop projects I have planned, and their statuses...*
> 
> #1. Wide Drum Sander. Picked up the all thread from Home Depot, and the pillow block bearings from Northern Tool. The design keeps fluctuating and due to the points where things can go bad fast… I have decided on moving the table to the drum, instead of the other way around. Any mechanism I have been able to come up with for raising and lowering the drum / motor to the table abounds with points of failure. I am not sold on any one design yet,.. If I run across anything that can convince me otherwise before I start buying materials, I will gladly reconsider my position….
> 
> ...


Stand cabinet is going to simply be a cabinet, built to be bolted to the stand. Ballast will be via sand in the bottom compartment of the cabinet. I believe 2 #80 bags will fit…

I have considered building an entirely new base with a built in cabinet, but that sort of defeats part of the purpose of building this cab, which is to get practice building something along the lines of a regular cabinet, which I can then take those skills to the kitchen remodel…

After all, there is a madness to my method, uh I mean… oh forget it…


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## EEngineer (Jul 4, 2008)

dbhost said:


> *A short listing of shop projects I have planned, and their statuses...*
> 
> #1. Wide Drum Sander. Picked up the all thread from Home Depot, and the pillow block bearings from Northern Tool. The design keeps fluctuating and due to the points where things can go bad fast… I have decided on moving the table to the drum, instead of the other way around. Any mechanism I have been able to come up with for raising and lowering the drum / motor to the table abounds with points of failure. I am not sold on any one design yet,.. If I run across anything that can convince me otherwise before I start buying materials, I will gladly reconsider my position….
> 
> ...


As far as "sourcing up a squirrel cage blower" try locating an HVAC shop near you. During the late summer months, they replace a lot of furnaces. I managed to pick up a lot of good motors from their scrap pile, some of which I had to remove from squirrel cage blowers for forced air furnaces. I just had to beat the scrapper there.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *A short listing of shop projects I have planned, and their statuses...*
> 
> #1. Wide Drum Sander. Picked up the all thread from Home Depot, and the pillow block bearings from Northern Tool. The design keeps fluctuating and due to the points where things can go bad fast… I have decided on moving the table to the drum, instead of the other way around. Any mechanism I have been able to come up with for raising and lowering the drum / motor to the table abounds with points of failure. I am not sold on any one design yet,.. If I run across anything that can convince me otherwise before I start buying materials, I will gladly reconsider my position….
> 
> ...


Sounds good, work on something not on display to gain skills. I think you described the ballast before, I forgot.

Been a quiet day here, I took a few pics of the cafe we went to, we really aren't doing a lot of the scenic stuff here on Maui, have done it many times before. We will take a few excursions before our stay is done, however…..........


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

*So many projects I want to do, so many design descisions, so little time or money...*

I just realized going over my Sketchup, and my physical sketchbook, that I realized, I better get busy, and have a TON of budget to get through these projects… So far my big, need to do soon projects are…

#1. Wide Drum sander. This has actually started. The disks for the drum are halfway done. (24 of 32 needed are cut out. I still need to come up with pulleys, rods, and pillow block bearings. This will be a simple pivot table lift mechanism , nothing too terribly fancy. The hard part will will be the drum anyway, and once that is done, I can start over in a different direction utilizing the same drum. I am opting for a 3/4" shaft on this

#2. Lathe stand cabinet. This honestly hasn't been a top priority, but it should be. I REALLY need a proper method of storing my chuck, faceplate, turning tools, etc… I have a rough design in Sketchup, but I am not having a lot of luck with drawing up the drawers for some reason…

#3. Wall storage cabinet. I need to design storage cabs that will hold all the junk that is presently on my peg board, as well as hold my hardware bins, router bit cabinets etc… I have a couple of designs, and am closing in on the one that should offer me the space I want. Based loosely on the wall cabinets in the most recent Shop Notes, I figure on building them deep and wide enough I can house 2 of the hardware cabinets side by side behind the fold out doors. The fold out doors would be built with the peg board per the plan, and used as shown in Shop Notes…

#4. This is going to sound a bit strange, but I am thinking I want to build a mobile lumber rack. I have been looking into several designs lately… Not thrilled with any of them…

#5. I need to rework my current clamp rack system. It works, but isn't ideal…


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

dbhost said:


> *So many projects I want to do, so many design descisions, so little time or money...*
> 
> I just realized going over my Sketchup, and my physical sketchbook, that I realized, I better get busy, and have a TON of budget to get through these projects… So far my big, need to do soon projects are…
> 
> ...


thats it ? only 3….

you better not see my sketchup folder… it's a project by itself just browsing through it.

we'll ALWAYS have high priority projects in a long list. just have to decide which gets top priority at the moment ,and go for it. one at a time you'll keep on updating that list 

looking forward to some progress


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *So many projects I want to do, so many design descisions, so little time or money...*
> 
> I just realized going over my Sketchup, and my physical sketchbook, that I realized, I better get busy, and have a TON of budget to get through these projects… So far my big, need to do soon projects are…
> 
> ...


Nah, I clicked submit too fast… I am adding on to that…


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *So many projects I want to do, so many design descisions, so little time or money...*
> 
> I just realized going over my Sketchup, and my physical sketchbook, that I realized, I better get busy, and have a TON of budget to get through these projects… So far my big, need to do soon projects are…
> 
> ...


I have so many projects to do that I could spend the next 6 months just doing Sketchup drawings….....(-:

I don't think I will live long enough to do them all, so I least I won't be bored…..............


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## rdk (Jan 26, 2010)

dbhost said:


> *So many projects I want to do, so many design descisions, so little time or money...*
> 
> I just realized going over my Sketchup, and my physical sketchbook, that I realized, I better get busy, and have a TON of budget to get through these projects… So far my big, need to do soon projects are…
> 
> ...


So happy to hear that it's not just me. Actually just this week I spent and hour or so at the side of my workbench putting plans, ideas, sketchs, notes, etc., that I've been saying "I'm going to do this one day", in a binder. You know getting them somewhat organized so that I can find them when/if they make it to the top of my list. Funny how that works, then you see or hear of something else that just bumps #1 to #2 and right on down the list. Oh well maybe one day"! Anyway, I still have high hopes and lots of desire, so hopefully when I retire later this year I'll have more time to invest in what I love so much. Just tonight at dinner I was telling my wife about a new idea I had. She's used to it, and just nods because she knows they can always pre-empt my list and her request done next. She's put up with me this long so I guess she has that right.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

*Shop Air Cleaner. Have parts, will build... *

Okay will have parts this weekend…

I found a source for pullout 110V squirrel cage furnace fan blowers, and plan to grab one this weekend. The idea is to grab one, make sure it fits the plan from ShopNotes, or make the shop notes plan fit the blower whichever… and get to building. Some changes I want from the shop notes design.

#1. Relieve the edges with a 1/8" roundover bit. Nothing extreme, but those corners won't be too much above my skull, I'd rather not take any chances…

#2. Sacrifice an outdoor extension cord (I have way too many anyway) to become the power cord, using a cord grommet from Ace Hardware, route the power into the cabinet.

#3. Paint. Doesn't have to be super pretty, but I don't want to leave it bare exposed plywood. I am considering brushing on Kilz gloss white enamel one step primer / paint. I can get a pint of the stuff cheap, and it would help keep it looking decent. I simply don't want it looking like it was just slapped together, I want it to be, well… decent looking.

#4. Addition of electrical box, and switch / timer. Now for the question…

Does anyone know of an avaialble remote control timer / switch assembly that would fit in a standard electrical box?


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## Cher (Dec 6, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Shop Air Cleaner. Have parts, will build... *
> 
> Okay will have parts this weekend…
> 
> ...


I must say you people are so resourceful I would be taking the easiest route and just buy one but when I see the prices my arms suddenly become shorter than my pockets. Has any one put up a step by step with photos on how to build one of these must haves I would be interested I do have someone in mind that can help me with the technical details.


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## devnull (Feb 11, 2010)

dbhost said:


> *Shop Air Cleaner. Have parts, will build... *
> 
> Okay will have parts this weekend…
> 
> ...


Take a look at http://www.amazon.com/UPM-MARKETING-INC-Remote-Control/dp/B0007N722O

Works well


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Shop Air Cleaner. Have parts, will build... *
> 
> Okay will have parts this weekend…
> 
> ...


I got a special publication from August Home Publishing that covers the build called "The Complete Small Shop". Came free with my subscription to Shop Notes Magazine. Mind you, I subscribe to several woodworking magazines, and Shop Notes, has got to be hands down my favorite. This is stuff I can actually do… (Unlike Fine Woodworking which never seems to have projects for beginning / intermediate woodworkers, just those that have alrready honed their skills…). Another good mag that has had similar projects is Wood Magazine.. I like the Shop Notes plan better…

The only thing they didn't show me how to do, is wire the thing… I can figure that out if I am just going to use a normal switch, but I want to be able to run a timer on this thing, so I can set the timer, and walk away to let it run for a couple of hours…

Hmmm. I just thought of something stupid…

The outlet I have it on is the very same outlet the lighting is on, and is switched power. I turn the lights off, the power for this will go away…

I think I need to figure out how to put a timer on a light switch, that can be overridden, so the lights stay on until I tell them to go out, AND I can THEN set the timer to shut it down a couple of hours after I walk out…


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Shop Air Cleaner. Have parts, will build... *
> 
> Okay will have parts this weekend…
> 
> ...


I never hesitate to install a device on a wall, especially in the garage or shop, where I undo the light switch plate or receptacle plate, tap into the feed, run it out the side of the box, doing whatever wallboard patch is necessary, and into a timer, which I may have slightly modified from some other device, and make it surface mount or in a box.

I have done both. I did that with a salt water aquarium light….....no….call it a beacon…...one of those halogen things that could light a street lamp, and it worked great for a number of years. The timer for that one was a timer designed for automobile head bolt heaters, readily available up here, and certainly available on line. So it will usually handle 15 amps. It fit in an electrical box. So I set the box just like any other box, flush with the surface, and there was the timer on the wall. In this case, I hid it in a built in book case wall. But it would have looked fine right out in the open.

Guess the key is find a device with a timer of the right amperage, designed to fit in an electrical box, and do whatever it takes to make it work….........that I know you can do…........(-:

Look for automobile headbolt heater timers…............

The only caveat, it depends on the feeds into that light switch box. But I bet it can be done. Or, check out the feed to the lights, it may be a dedicated circuit, and you might be able to do it near the breaker box.

........hope that confuses you appropriately….........


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Shop Air Cleaner. Have parts, will build... *
> 
> Okay will have parts this weekend…
> 
> ...


.......and one other thing, think about running a new circuit, which might be needed anyway, into the shop. That is the approach I would take. I would surface mount the wire if necessary, and add a receptacle or two along the way….....more appropriate, and safer. If your panel is maxed out, leach from an underused circuit.

Just like when I ran 220 to my central pillar. I didn't just put in the receptacles for the two saws, I put in two extras for future contingencies…......

..........it's the Alaskan Duct Tape and bailing wire mentality, fused with the Alaskan 'more firepower is better' mentality…..(-:


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Shop Air Cleaner. Have parts, will build... *
> 
> Okay will have parts this weekend…
> 
> ...


The circuit was planned for this. I just sort of forgot the switched power issue… This is a 20 amp breaker / circuit that runs…

6

```
2 bulb 4' shop lights in the garage.
1
```
 Single bulb screw type fixture in garage.
1

```
Single bulb screw type fixture in attic.<br />1
```
 2 bulb 4' recess fixture in the laundry room.
1 @ 2 bulb 4' recess fixture in the kitchen.

Assuming as most of them I have seen, this thing is running a 5a motor, then total load on this circuit at start up is no more than 7 amps… Even if it is a 10 amp motor, I am still well within the limits of this circuit…


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Shop Air Cleaner. Have parts, will build... *
> 
> Okay will have parts this weekend…
> 
> ...


My suggestion of the separate circuit was to separate the light switch from the dust control, although there is certainly not much handicap in combining the two, especially with a timer.

I would like to see how your filter works out. That is something that I would consider making also. It would depend on performance (meaning filtering capability) versus cost issues. My DC does a pretty good job of keeping the fine stuff out of the air. But I really need a prefilter on it. I can see it is going to start filling up faster with increased work levels, especially routing and planing.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Shop Air Cleaner. Have parts, will build... *
> 
> Okay will have parts this weekend…
> 
> ...


The air cleaner is just another stage in the dust collection / abatement setup. The dust collector does work very well for keeping dust out of the air, but without a doubt, there is stuff it misses, which is where the air cleaner comes into play…

I guess I could just leave the light on with the cleaner running when I come out of the shop. I would however, be prone to leaving it running by forgetting it is on… Which is why I want to install a timer on it. Flourescent lights on all night is no big deal, but the fan motor is going to be a big deal…


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Shop Air Cleaner. Have parts, will build... *
> 
> Okay will have parts this weekend…
> 
> ...


Seriously, check out the head bolt heater timers. They are mass produced and cheap, and they will handle more current than you are going to impose on it. And they are usually designed to fit in standard electrical boxes. I use a timer on my aquarium lights, orchid lights, etc. I use timers a lot, and they are mostly the same. They are reliable and replaceable, and they should be cheap, no matter the application.

And I agree with you about the dust. That's why I am following this with interest. I can buy a Delta or other locally, but….....ah shucks…......lets be honest…......its fun to make a good performing solution that is a lot cheaper. It's the principal of it…............(-:


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Shop Air Cleaner. Have parts, will build... *
> 
> Okay will have parts this weekend…
> 
> ...


What on earth is a head bolt heater? I doubt this is something I am likely to find in a tropical climate…


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Shop Air Cleaner. Have parts, will build... *
> 
> Okay will have parts this weekend…
> 
> ...


OK, ancient Alaskan term understood up here. Try engine block heater timer, or here is a link…...

http://store.ves1.com/Intermatic__Outdoor_Mechanical_Timer/p91712_224726.aspx

Up in the North, in the middle of the winter, when you park outside there are actually outlets to plug your car in so it will start when you are done with work. I think Intermatic has been at this forever, and into timer control of circuits for a long time. They are designed for commercial and home use. I had them in Fairbanks when I lived there. If you asked your question there…........they would mumble…..Cheechako…........

If you are still having problems, tomorrow, when I am a little better rested, I will help with the search for an economical product.

I think you would do well to order it online. Or in your region, check with swimming pool vendors. Nah, check on line…................


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Shop Air Cleaner. Have parts, will build... *
> 
> Okay will have parts this weekend…
> 
> ...


I paid something like $20 to buy a newfangled version of the old spring-operated attic fan timer, from Home Depot.

Goes 0 through 12hrs. It's meant to replace a standard switch, in an old work box, so … for me … a bit of wiring will need to be done, but … easy enough.

Good luck with this!


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Shop Air Cleaner. Have parts, will build... *
> 
> Okay will have parts this weekend…
> 
> ...


The switch replacement timer sounds like a winner. I have seen some, and Intermatic is the name I remember seeing associated with them, that were the same sort of timer you see associated with hot tubs, saunas, or room lighting. Even seen some digital ones. There is one I am fishing for, and I just can't place it. It is a replacement for the light switch, it has the timer, AND a switch that bypasses the timer, so say for example I just wanted to hit the lights, I just flip the switch and the circuit would get juice, but the switch in the off position would get juice by setting the timer as well… I wish I could recall where I have seen those, and who makes them, most likely Woods or Intermatic….


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Shop Air Cleaner. Have parts, will build... *
> 
> Okay will have parts this weekend…
> 
> ...


Here are links for the type of thing you want. The electronic has the features, but I didn't see one in the power handling range of the spring timers…..........

Electronic - may not handle your load
http://www.rewci.com/ineltiei1how.html

Spring timer with hold - would handle the load
http://www.1000bulbs.com/Commercial-Spring-Wound-Timers/
The Intermatic FF12HHC has the hold feature you would need.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Shop Air Cleaner. Have parts, will build... *
> 
> Okay will have parts this weekend…
> 
> ...


I don't know about that 1/4 HP rating, but yeah, that is along the lines of what I am talking about, I think…

Not sure about the specs, but it looks like the GE 15806 Digital timer might do what I want it to do… I need to see if the package lists the power specs…


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## gofish (Feb 17, 2010)

dbhost said:


> *Shop Air Cleaner. Have parts, will build... *
> 
> Okay will have parts this weekend…
> 
> ...


Instead of mounting it on the ceiling, make a box and put it on the floor w/ a sanding table on on top. Use a coarse fiberglass primary furnance filter for the big stuff and underneath use a hypoallegenic filter for the fine dust. It will work fine on the floor as well as the ceiling mount , plus you have a sanding table. Cheers.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Shop Air Cleaner. Have parts, will build... *
> 
> Okay will have parts this weekend…
> 
> ...


The problem is usually with the motor ratings. Also, you want a simple count down timer that you can override. I doubt you would like a 24hr timer or week timer, unless it is unusually flexible.

Re the comment by gofish. There are some neat examples of what he is talking about around, I think on this forum.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Shop Air Cleaner. Have parts, will build... *
> 
> Okay will have parts this weekend…
> 
> ...


I was planning on a downdraft table / cabinet. I do not need anything else consuming floor space…


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Shop Air Cleaner. Have parts, will build... *
> 
> Okay will have parts this weekend…
> 
> ...


FWIW (about twelve bucks), this is the one I bought….


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

*Back onto the wide drum sander...*

So far I have been busy accumulating the pieces / parts needed for the WDS. Here is what I have so far…

3/4" Birch Ply - Free (Was in the shop).
1/4" ply for dust hood. - Free. Original decking from attic.
4" dust port. - Free. Chunk of 4" S&D pipe bonded down with clear silicone caulk.
4"X24" cylinder - Free. (Made from scrap SYP 2×4s).
Elecrical switch, box, face plate, wall cord, motor cord. - Free. Already had it in the shop. (Hacked apart a 12 ga extension cord that had been cut by a hedge trimmer…)
Shaft - Free (Was in the shop when I bought the house).
1 HP HF motor - Free Planned pullout from band saw. Band saw to be upgraded to 1.5 HP Dayton motor.
Link Belt. - Free. Upgraded bandsaw to link belt, which took a total of 6' of link belt, bought 2 5 foot belts, had 4' left over…
Paint - Free. Have at least a quart of chocolate brown paint left over from LOMLs craft projects…

Still working on grabbing bearings, sandpaper roll, pulleys, 2×4s and 4×4s.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

*Working on a cedar planter box...*

The projects keep getting heaped up on me. Last night was a directive to get the not yet fully refinished cabinet doors out of the shop and back onto the kitchen cabinets. My fault, I have been taking too long with them, and refinishing is only a stop gap anyway, we are building new doors and drawer fronts to give the kitchen a whole new look…

I managed to get about a half hour of shop time last night and finished sawing and planing down the cedar 2×4s to 1.5" x 1.5" actual.

I want to cut a 3/4" x 3/4" rabbet in this stock, and haven't decided how I am going to approach that. I am considering doing non through cuts and simply sawing out the notch instead of setting up the dado and giving my DC dust bin that much more to hold… However I need to double / triple check the height of my riving knife as I believe the one for the Shark Guard sits just proud of the top of hte blade. If that's the case, I need to come up with a splitter for my saw before I can do that. And I might as well dig out the dado set then…

Okay the planter box is sort of a silly project. LOML saw these planters at Lowes for something like $75.00 each, and it was PAINFULLY obvious it was made from nothing more than 1/2" cedar A.K.A. fence pickets. Well heck, I had those… and Cedar 2x stock, so I took a quick measurement, asked her how deep of a planter she wants, sketched up a probably bad idea on a napkin and went to work…

Width of the planter is 24", Depth is 14" and height is 14". I will use a couple of coats of deck stain, and attach the bronze stars I got at the garden center (see my workshop, the pic of my pegboard has one of them on there) on each end to give it that "Lone Star" feel…

She wants to try to grow bluebonnets in it. If that succeeds, I am going to use that planter, her flowers, my old cowboy boots, and hat for some photo opportunities to maybe make up a very personalized Christmas card for this year…


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Working on a cedar planter box...*
> 
> The projects keep getting heaped up on me. Last night was a directive to get the not yet fully refinished cabinet doors out of the shop and back onto the kitchen cabinets. My fault, I have been taking too long with them, and refinishing is only a stop gap anyway, we are building new doors and drawer fronts to give the kitchen a whole new look…
> 
> ...


*David*
Be careful about staining the inside of those planters….....seems to me I remember somewhere about issues with certain finish products and planters and their plants. I had pretty good luck with BLO and planters of various sorts made out of plain old exterior plywood, nails, and exterior quality glue. Those planters never died, and I have a couple that were just used to start seedlings that I converted to use in the shop eventually. The BLO kept them in good shape.

Should get a blog entry today, was working this weekend, had a couple of deliveries, but the telephone was quiet so I got in some shop time.

Like the idea for the Christmas card….........

Later….......


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Working on a cedar planter box...*
> 
> The projects keep getting heaped up on me. Last night was a directive to get the not yet fully refinished cabinet doors out of the shop and back onto the kitchen cabinets. My fault, I have been taking too long with them, and refinishing is only a stop gap anyway, we are building new doors and drawer fronts to give the kitchen a whole new look…
> 
> ...


Hmmm…

My thought was on the Deck / Fence stain stuff from Thompsons. Gives it a deeper red tint, and unfortunately I am painfully aware (I spilled about a quart on my lawn a couple of years ago…) it doesn't seem to phase live plants…

I might look into BLO though. I use it a LOT. I just hadn't considered it for an exterior project…


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Working on a cedar planter box...*
> 
> The projects keep getting heaped up on me. Last night was a directive to get the not yet fully refinished cabinet doors out of the shop and back onto the kitchen cabinets. My fault, I have been taking too long with them, and refinishing is only a stop gap anyway, we are building new doors and drawer fronts to give the kitchen a whole new look…
> 
> ...


*David*
I don't think the exterior is important as to the planter. Also, seems to me the problems are with the preservatives with copper and other nasty metals. I think I built a couple of plywood low planters for seedlings in Kentucky, finished them with BLO, and then retreated probably once or twice over the years, and now they are in use in the shop over 25 years later. I not sure BLO fairs as well in climates like Texas has, so the Thompson's may be better, especially for the exterior.

BLO is easy to apply though, so when you empty the dirt out when replanting, recoat the interior. At the price for the cedar, this may be overkill, but when I build something, I find it will last for decades with reasonable care, as opposed to store bought, which tends to fall apart quickly.

There is some information about it on the web. I found only one statement that would suggests an issue for use on the interior of the planter here….....http://aoyagisgardenbox.blogspot.com/. At that site there are some other suggestions for the interior of the planter, weed barrier, etc.

My gut reaction would be to treat the exterior with the Thompson's of your choice, and use BLO or something else on the interior, or nothing at all, might work with cedar.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Working on a cedar planter box...*
> 
> The projects keep getting heaped up on me. Last night was a directive to get the not yet fully refinished cabinet doors out of the shop and back onto the kitchen cabinets. My fault, I have been taking too long with them, and refinishing is only a stop gap anyway, we are building new doors and drawer fronts to give the kitchen a whole new look…
> 
> ...


My thought was exterior with the Thompsons, interior unfinished. I have done completely unfinished (exterior) cedar planters in the past, and they lasted 10 years + before they grew feet and walked off. (Totally different story…).

The previous planters were of course painted on the inside with several coats of plain black latex exterior paint.

No worries with that at all. Lillies loved those things…


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Working on a cedar planter box...*
> 
> The projects keep getting heaped up on me. Last night was a directive to get the not yet fully refinished cabinet doors out of the shop and back onto the kitchen cabinets. My fault, I have been taking too long with them, and refinishing is only a stop gap anyway, we are building new doors and drawer fronts to give the kitchen a whole new look…
> 
> ...


*David*
Sounds good to me. I worry about the long hot growing things they are exposed to there, and the tendency of BLO to mildew (apparently pure BLO will not mildew, but you have to make sure it is pure, and does not contain any raw linseed oil …...that's my interpretation of my web search). Up here, where the degree-days are so low, and the much of the year is below freezing, BLO fairs well.

Seems we both are into BLO for interior stuff, although I use a lot of WATCO nowadays. I had a gallon of clear stuff for one of Sherie's looms that she sold, so I am slowly working my way through it over the last 15 years or so. Fortunately, WATCO stores well.

Raw cedar lasts forever up here….....unless you put it into the ground.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

*Thoughts on scrap wood. The Hurricane Ike damaged fence saga continues...*

Well, the few remaining rot free 2×4s from my old fence that blew down in hurricane Ike have finally been stripped clean and stacked neatly. But what to do with 26 year old sun bleached pressure treated 2×4s? There's not a straight stick to be found here, and who knows WHAT they used in PT back in the mid 1980s. I HATE to just throw out usable wood, but I also hate the idea of holding on to potentially dangerous junk.

So for now, it sits. Most likely to be taken to the curb for the next heavy trash day.

The pull out concrete anchor from the sole replacement fence post sits there as well. Still. It appears even though heavy trash day has come and gone, this thing is just TOO heavy for our well qualified sanitation engineers to remove. So that begs the question. HOW do I get this thing off my lawn, and into the back of their truck? I thought about breaking it up with a sledge, no joy. The hammer head just bounces off of it. I guess I COULD get after it with a rented jack hammer… Just seems excessive, and this thing is now out of the ground and it MOVES…

Maybe my air hammer. But how effective can that be? Oh well…

Anyway, I digress into hunks of concrete… I am seriously thinking about that old 2×4 lumber. I can double then triple check for metal, pressure wash it, dry it up, then run it through the jointer to clean it up, and do a nice big gluelam top for a potting bench for LOML. I am already planning on re-purposing the existing base of my workbench, which is Cedar, and too light for a workbench, but it will be ideal for a potting bench. I figure the cedar base, and PT top and that thing should last for years. Maybe enclose the base with marine grade PT plywood sides and doors to give her some lockable, dry storage for her rose fertilizer, spades and such…

Oh well, just thinking out loud I guess… If you guys had a stack of old PT 2×4s what would you do with them?


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Thoughts on scrap wood. The Hurricane Ike damaged fence saga continues...*
> 
> Well, the few remaining rot free 2×4s from my old fence that blew down in hurricane Ike have finally been stripped clean and stacked neatly. But what to do with 26 year old sun bleached pressure treated 2×4s? There's not a straight stick to be found here, and who knows WHAT they used in PT back in the mid 1980s. I HATE to just throw out usable wood, but I also hate the idea of holding on to potentially dangerous junk.
> 
> ...


*David*
Since I have already pioneered this arena ( my planter stand ) I would suggest making planter stands….........(-:

If you have the same amount of warp I did, I would cut out the straightest parts, and build rough and ready stuff for outdoors that can be made from small pieces. Seems to me that it is too much work to joint and plane it for what you'll get out of it. The amount of sweat, dulled blades, and general wear on the machines would make it expensive wood, I think.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Thoughts on scrap wood. The Hurricane Ike damaged fence saga continues...*
> 
> Well, the few remaining rot free 2×4s from my old fence that blew down in hurricane Ike have finally been stripped clean and stacked neatly. But what to do with 26 year old sun bleached pressure treated 2×4s? There's not a straight stick to be found here, and who knows WHAT they used in PT back in the mid 1980s. I HATE to just throw out usable wood, but I also hate the idea of holding on to potentially dangerous junk.
> 
> ...


I don't think it would be that big of a problem as long as I can make sure no metal or foreign debris is present…

I have some straight-ish boards, but nothing perfect… A planter stand isn't a bad idea… And I know just the spot that could use one…


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## crank49 (Apr 7, 2010)

dbhost said:


> *Thoughts on scrap wood. The Hurricane Ike damaged fence saga continues...*
> 
> Well, the few remaining rot free 2×4s from my old fence that blew down in hurricane Ike have finally been stripped clean and stacked neatly. But what to do with 26 year old sun bleached pressure treated 2×4s? There's not a straight stick to be found here, and who knows WHAT they used in PT back in the mid 1980s. I HATE to just throw out usable wood, but I also hate the idea of holding on to potentially dangerous junk.
> 
> ...


"and who knows WHAT they used in PT back in the mid 1980s" 
Arsenic for one thing. Be sure to were lung protection when making dust and wash your hands after handling.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Thoughts on scrap wood. The Hurricane Ike damaged fence saga continues...*
> 
> Well, the few remaining rot free 2×4s from my old fence that blew down in hurricane Ike have finally been stripped clean and stacked neatly. But what to do with 26 year old sun bleached pressure treated 2×4s? There's not a straight stick to be found here, and who knows WHAT they used in PT back in the mid 1980s. I HATE to just throw out usable wood, but I also hate the idea of holding on to potentially dangerous junk.
> 
> ...


"Arsenic"

That settles it up. Going to the curb for sure.


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## GregD (Oct 24, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Thoughts on scrap wood. The Hurricane Ike damaged fence saga continues...*
> 
> Well, the few remaining rot free 2×4s from my old fence that blew down in hurricane Ike have finally been stripped clean and stacked neatly. But what to do with 26 year old sun bleached pressure treated 2×4s? There's not a straight stick to be found here, and who knows WHAT they used in PT back in the mid 1980s. I HATE to just throw out usable wood, but I also hate the idea of holding on to potentially dangerous junk.
> 
> ...


Hey David - in Sugar Land concrete is one item that the trash guys are not supposed to pick up. It could be the same in your neighborhood. On the other hand its not like they are going to go through your trash every pickup day looking for a few small pieces… In my experience you need an appropriate chisel between the hammer and concrete to get it to bust up - and a fair bit of stubbornness.


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## Jim1963 (Feb 11, 2010)

dbhost said:


> *Thoughts on scrap wood. The Hurricane Ike damaged fence saga continues...*
> 
> Well, the few remaining rot free 2×4s from my old fence that blew down in hurricane Ike have finally been stripped clean and stacked neatly. But what to do with 26 year old sun bleached pressure treated 2×4s? There's not a straight stick to be found here, and who knows WHAT they used in PT back in the mid 1980s. I HATE to just throw out usable wood, but I also hate the idea of holding on to potentially dangerous junk.
> 
> ...


If you have a Rotary Hammer (hammer drill) and a small diameter masonry bit or 2, try punching some holes in that concrete first. Don't forget some goggles and or face sheild too , those flying broken chunks of concrete got some velocity, especially when whacked with a big hammer.


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## BritBoxmaker (Feb 1, 2010)

dbhost said:


> *Thoughts on scrap wood. The Hurricane Ike damaged fence saga continues...*
> 
> Well, the few remaining rot free 2×4s from my old fence that blew down in hurricane Ike have finally been stripped clean and stacked neatly. But what to do with 26 year old sun bleached pressure treated 2×4s? There's not a straight stick to be found here, and who knows WHAT they used in PT back in the mid 1980s. I HATE to just throw out usable wood, but I also hate the idea of holding on to potentially dangerous junk.
> 
> ...


I agree, planters. Maybe hexagonal ones. They're selling well in England at the moment. For flowers, not vegetables, as you're worried about PT poisoning.


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## eccentrictinkerer (Feb 9, 2010)

dbhost said:


> *Thoughts on scrap wood. The Hurricane Ike damaged fence saga continues...*
> 
> Well, the few remaining rot free 2×4s from my old fence that blew down in hurricane Ike have finally been stripped clean and stacked neatly. But what to do with 26 year old sun bleached pressure treated 2×4s? There's not a straight stick to be found here, and who knows WHAT they used in PT back in the mid 1980s. I HATE to just throw out usable wood, but I also hate the idea of holding on to potentially dangerous junk.
> 
> ...


Re breaking up that concrete. When the crew left that cut the hole for my egress window, I realized it was my job to get the concrete bits into the dumpster. The smallest piece was as big as my head, but most were bigger, about 60 lbs to 100 lbs. or more.

I got my old Skil saw with a masonry blade and cut as deep a slot as I could in each piece. Then I used a small sledge hammer to drive a brick chisel into the slot and 'Bob's your uncle', I was done. A wedge is a good simple machine to have a around. Remember the safety glasses!

Good luck!


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Thoughts on scrap wood. The Hurricane Ike damaged fence saga continues...*
> 
> Well, the few remaining rot free 2×4s from my old fence that blew down in hurricane Ike have finally been stripped clean and stacked neatly. But what to do with 26 year old sun bleached pressure treated 2×4s? There's not a straight stick to be found here, and who knows WHAT they used in PT back in the mid 1980s. I HATE to just throw out usable wood, but I also hate the idea of holding on to potentially dangerous junk.
> 
> ...


You know, funny you should mention it. I need a masonry blade for the miter saw anyway. (Hardie Trim), and masonry blades, at least the abrasive blades are cheap and plentiful… A splendid idea. If I can bust this up into about 4 pieces, I can put a piece at a time in the trash can with no fuss from the waste management engineers….

Oh, FWIW, against my better judgement, I made a bench top out of the PT lumber. A real basic cleat and screw construction, no glue at all.

As soon as the fence is up I will probably build that new base for the workbench, and swap the cedar base under this thing… Actually as heavy as this is… I might just make myself an untreated SYP 2×4 based benchtop. I REALLY want more mass to my workbench…


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

*Another project in progress...*

This one is going to take some time to get done right…


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

dbhost said:


> *Another project in progress...*
> 
> This one is going to take some time to get done right…


cute pup


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Another project in progress...*
> 
> This one is going to take some time to get done right…


Aw shucks…......what can I say…......looks just like you…................

Just spent a while talking to my youngest daughter of their trials and tribulations trying to figure out how to get their dog let out to potty while they are at work…....issue, because they both have totally unpredictable jobs…........living in an apartment while they are both in training….......

Sure that one will become your second best friend…...........(-:


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Another project in progress...*
> 
> This one is going to take some time to get done right…


Yeah, kind of a stealth gloat… He trots around with that stuffed pheasant every time he gets up…

He's a mix yellow / black labrador retriever, with a slightly funny looking coat. We were able to see the parents, and they are without a doubt labs….

I gotta teach him to fetch lumber for me…


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Another project in progress...*
> 
> This one is going to take some time to get done right…


I am sure he will fetch anything you want and a lot of things you don't want him to. But I am sure you and your wife will enjoy him….....he ought to take to water pretty well too.

Off to bed early….....on call this weekend…......

Jim


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Another project in progress...*
> 
> This one is going to take some time to get done right…


*David*

Had seven phone calls last night scattered through the night. Little punchy, so just hangin' out…...I am off today.

OK, so gotta tell my labrador stories.

First one is straight forward. One of my best friends as I grew up was named David. There were 7 kids in the family, all adopted, and they sorta adopted me at times, had me stay out at their lake cabin, do joint projects with David. I think they thought I was a good influence. His father was my physician, Dr. Neff, and I used him as a reference for years. But they had an old lab named Pilot. And more than once they told me the story of how he pulled one of the older children, Bob, out of a river, after he had fallen in and was drowning. Pilot was literally credited with saving Bob's life.

Dr. Neff was not into exaggerating things or into melodrama. He was one of my role models as I grew up. Great guy. I remember getting a large ugly spinter in my hand working on their dock, one that was totally buried under the skin. Doc was standing on the dock closer to shore. So I walked up to him and showed it to him. Didn't say anything, pulled out his pocket knife and dug it out right there, and said "That ought to fix it", and sent me back to working on the dock.

Second story.

Close friend of mine in Fairbanks had a litter of registered black labs. Sold a few to our friends, had some left. Said I could have one for free, but not to tell any of our friends I got it for free. Didn't want our friends to think they had been overcharged.

So of course, I named the dog 'Freebie'.

She could climb a 6 foot fence, finally I put an electrified wire at the top, she got one good shock and never tried to climb it again. Totally crazy fun dog.

My daughter in Chicago has a black lab. Played 'go fetch' with that dog till I was worn out just a month ago.

I am waiting to hear about your first prized possession that dog chews to pieces…...(-:

........end of Lab stories…...........(-:

Jim


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Another project in progress...*
> 
> This one is going to take some time to get done right…


Oh yeah. Well the living room furniture is something we want to get rid of, and he is kept out of the office and the bedrooms. I am somewhat concerned about my fishing rods and storage rack. The only place in the house tall enough for it is the living room, or the corner of the dining room… I guess I can put it in the corner of the master bedroom if I take the 16 foot surf rod back out to the shop. But that won't happen any time soon…

This dog, now named Brody, is my 3rd retriever, he follows Deacon, who after a nearly 15 year dogless stint replaced shadow, who oddly enough was a Golden Retriever. That's what I get for adopting adult dogs… The story about Shadow was that the family that had him had 2 dogs, a black lab, and a golden retriever. The Golden responded to the black lab's name so much they changed his name. I never could get him to respond to anything else…

I took him to the vet at lunch. He's got a couple of minor issues, but nothing I didn't expect for a free puppy. Dry skin, possibly mange, so he got treatment for that, and tested positive for worms (most puppies do) so he is on worming treatment. We go back in 2 weeks for his parvo and distemper shots, and then 2 weeks later for the rest of the course of shots, and his tags.

He upchucked the wormer at the vets office, so they gave him benadryl in case it was an injection reaction from the first shots… So we have to do the liquid wormer.

He crawled up and under LOMLs arm and fell asleep on the ride home… At least he seems to like car rides…


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Another project in progress...*
> 
> This one is going to take some time to get done right…


congrat´s with him I´m sure he will bring you and your wife a lot of amusment
at least he know were his place is…..LOL
you have started the trainning well….LOL

look after him and you will have a good companon for yes

thank´s for sharing

Dennis


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## DanCo (Jun 19, 2010)

dbhost said:


> *Another project in progress...*
> 
> This one is going to take some time to get done right…


Great dog. I have one that is the same mix just black. Chewed just about anything in sight for the first year or so. Now she is probably the most loyal and wonderful dog I have had outside of her big sister (lola the mastiff). She is a natural duck and goose dog. Didn't have to train her at all she just knew what to do. I'm only about an hour and a half north of you maybe they can get married one day. By the way, isn't it great working in this great weather.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

*Taunted by cut offs, and needing small parts bin dividers. *

I know the title doesn't make a whole lot of sense. Welcome to my world!

Well as followers of my blogs know, I am doing some heavy duty clean up, as well as organizing my shop. Well last night during what time I could eke out for shop time, I managed to un-bury a couple of 29.5×24" 3/4 sanded SYP ply cutoffs. This was the stuff I used for my tool stacker. Now given that the overall dimensions desired for my upcoming small parts / router accessories cabinet is 32" W x 28" H X 16" deep, well I know I won't get a whole lot of grain matching going on, but at least I have the material for the sides… So I have more or less finalized the design for the cabinet, I need more ply, and some peg board to finish it up, but once done, it will provide a home for 2 of my current 3 Stack On small parts bins. The main drawback I can see to using them is… They are both dead flat, and I need to make a jointing sled for my planer (have some 10" wide stock I need to fact joint, which is needless to say, WAY beyond the capacity of my bench top jointer…)

Speaking of the small parts bins, the 3rd is the older style with the hard plastic bins and the bins are starting to break apart, I tried getting a replacement from Stack On but they have been useless, so I consolidated. and I now have a 38 out of 39 drawer parts bin. I am also looking at getting rid of 4 large bin drawers full of roofing nails after I finish up a dog house for Brody the very hyper puppy that needs to mellow out to Shop Dog status, and the sooner the better. But that's another story all together…

Anyway, I digress. A small project I had considered, especially since my small parts bins seem to only get 1/10th full on the small drawers, is some drawer dividers that Stack On is too cheap to include. but the question is what can I use that is thin enough to slide down the slot given in the drawer. I am thinking about cutting a few out of tempered hardboard, and just sanding down the ends to thickness. It doesn't have to be beautiful, it just has to work after all…

So anyway, I spent plenty of time last night to clean out the broken drawed cabinet, (Wonder if it would be worth it to anybody to build a drawer for it so they can have a free cabinet? I have plenty of 1/4" ply…) and it's ready to come off the wall. The design for the new cabinet is printed, and ready to cut.

Well as it is, I have more to do than I have time or money, but that's the story of my life… I'll just plug away and keep doing what I can do. With any luck maybe somebody will chuck out some more plywood. (it happens in my neighborhood, a LOT…) and then I can build this thing full from scrap (Have the peg board in my cutoffs I think…)


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Taunted by cut offs, and needing small parts bin dividers. *
> 
> I know the title doesn't make a whole lot of sense. Welcome to my world!
> 
> ...


You probably need some thin acrylic. Over the years I have built things from baking pans (thin aluminum ones). Just to brain storm…...how thin will your band saw cut reliably? You could try wooden ones, but I not too optimistic about that.

Do you have any melamine sheets, you know, the stuff you glue onto wood, like you might use to cover a router table top. Is that thin enough? If so, you could probably stack a number of small pieces and cut a bunch at once with the band saw. I think that is the best idea I can come up with, partly because a have a large sheet of it, ready to be used on jigs or a router table, for example.

Another source…....walk into Office Depot or someplace similar, and see if any of the loose leaf three ring notebook dividers are made from plastic that would be rigid enough. There might be other materials in an office store that would work.

Or in a kitchen section of department store, look for things that are cheap and made from material that is thin enough.

.........so there are my lame brain ideas…............(-:


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## FatherHooligan (Mar 27, 2008)

dbhost said:


> *Taunted by cut offs, and needing small parts bin dividers. *
> 
> I know the title doesn't make a whole lot of sense. Welcome to my world!
> 
> ...


Your title made sense to me…should I be worried 

Have you tried puck board (I'm not sure what it is called in the rest of the world) but it is the heavy duty plastic they put around hockey rinks to stop stray pucks from picking off the paying customers watching the games in person (not those folks safely behind their television screens, even the Great One's slapshot couldn't hit those folks LOL!)

The other thing that leaps to mind is aluminum sheet, its thin light and fairly readily available and cuts dead easy.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Taunted by cut offs, and needing small parts bin dividers. *
> 
> I know the title doesn't make a whole lot of sense. Welcome to my world!
> 
> ...


Yeah thin acrylic. And it JUST occoured to me where I have plenty of acrylic that is the right thickness… The drawers from the old bin that needs to go away…


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

*Slight adjustment to the parts cabinet design methinks...*

So this clamshell cabinet design that taunts me oh so often, and loudly too I might add, wanted to be changed a little bit last night. But It IS getting closer to final.

As you might recall, in my last installment I am wanting to make some drawer dividers for, and install into my clamshell cabinet 2 Stack On 39 drawer small parts cabinets. But that's not ALL that is going in this clamshell cab. So I started thinking about what WILL be going into this cabinet. And the list is…

On the inside…
-2 39 drawer small parts cabs.
-1 MLCS 66 piece 1/2" shank router bit set.
-1 Skil 30 pc 1/4" shank router bit set.
-20 misc mixed router bits. Mostly MLCS 1/2" shank, a couple Rockler, one Freud, and even an Amana bit… Need room for at least 10 more. Will likely make provision for total of 40 to 50 loose bits. 
-1 boxed MLCS Rabbeting bit set.
-Router bearing oil container. (is it my imagination or is that stuff just regular pink transmission fluid?)
-1 Milescraft router edge guide / circle cutter.
-Set of router bushings
-3 misc 25 foot tape measures.
-2 misc 12 foot tape measures.
-1 6" digital caliper.
-1 Digital dial indicator.
-1 3pc micrometer set.
-1 3pc set of mechanical calipers.
-1 #4 hand plane
-1 #5 hand plane
-1 low angle block plane.

On the outside. Or maybe on a "leaf" panel in the cabinet, haven't decided yet…
-Marples double edge pull saw
-Marples dovetail / flush cut pull saw
-Old Ace Hardware hack saw.
-Stanley tool box saw.
-2 drywall saws (1 Stanley, 1 Greenlee)
-1 6pc set Stanley Fat Max chisels.
-1 Combination square.
-1 try square

Yeah, for the most part, I am trying to consolidate small parts, hand tools, and router accessories into the same area. I may be asking a bit too much, but that's the thing, I am in no huge hurry, I just need to kind of plod along and just keep tweaking the design until I am happy with it. One of the things I am thinking about redoing is losing the pegboard front panel, and actually building tool holders for everything on the front panel.

So for right now, pretty much everything is up in the air on that. But there are a couple of things I have decided on for sure other than what I want it to hold. That is…

#1. Will be hung using a french cleat.
#2. Exposed plywood edges will be trimmed with iron on edge banding. Most likely something different though. I am SERIOUSLY considering walnut banding for contrast. Nobody does it, and it sounds interesting, at least in my head…
#3. Corner joinery will be locking rabbets. (I need to spend some quality time with my Dado stack…)
#4. Finish is most likely to be Minwax Golden Pecan stain, with at least 2 coats of brush on poly.

So any tips, advice, or even pointers to finished projects similar to what I am talking about here would be GREATLY appreciated…


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Slight adjustment to the parts cabinet design methinks...*
> 
> So this clamshell cabinet design that taunts me oh so often, and loudly too I might add, wanted to be changed a little bit last night. But It IS getting closer to final.
> 
> ...


Have to run to the hospital for my last bit of work for the weekend…......

I'll review this a little closer later. One thing I have found, make sure that the internal structure of that thing is adjustable and mutable. You will change its contents as you use it, some tools and parts will become outmoded, and it might even find its way to a mobile structure some day…...........

More later….......

Jim


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

dbhost said:


> *Slight adjustment to the parts cabinet design methinks...*
> 
> So this clamshell cabinet design that taunts me oh so often, and loudly too I might add, wanted to be changed a little bit last night. But It IS getting closer to final.
> 
> ...


I'm having a hard time envisioning what it is that you are trying to do do I'm not sure if this will be of any help, but you can take a look at the cabinet I made (which have since been updated with more personalized holders but the concept stays the same) here : http://lumberjocks.com/PurpLev/blog/7391 It's held to the wall using french cleat and you could customize it to your needs - add more drawers, divide the drawers, tool holders and all:









`
When the cabinet is closed it's deep, but fully enclosed, when it opens it's not as deep (becomes ~half depth) and really puts everything at hands reach and accessible. It's just made of 3/4" birch plywood - no banding as I didn't think it even needed that. but that's a personal taste thing.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Slight adjustment to the parts cabinet design methinks...*
> 
> So this clamshell cabinet design that taunts me oh so often, and loudly too I might add, wanted to be changed a little bit last night. But It IS getting closer to final.
> 
> ...


Kind of on the same plan. The part that is fixed to the wall / cleat will hold 2 of these…









One of these (and I will need to be able to open it!)









But yeah other than that sort of stuff, you pretty much have what I am shooting for. Just picture that, bigger, and a bit more stuffed…

I see you used Piano type hinges. Are you happy with that choice?

As far as the banding is concerned, it's just a tickles my fancy sort of thing. Most folks want to ignore, or play down the edges of plywood. I kind of wanted to find a way to play them up…


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Slight adjustment to the parts cabinet design methinks...*
> 
> So this clamshell cabinet design that taunts me oh so often, and loudly too I might add, wanted to be changed a little bit last night. But It IS getting closer to final.
> 
> ...


Back again.

Some advice…....probably worth what it is going to cost you…...(-:

Make the internal structure of the cabinet modular and adjustable. The same with any tool mounts on the front. Make it so that the tool mounts are on small french cleats, or that the whole front part where the tools are mounted, meaning I assume the door, is replaceable. That is, mount the piece that has the tool holders, on the door, so that if you decide to change it, you do not have to make a new door.

I am going to do something similar, meaning cabinets on french cleats around the shop, and replace my old kitchen cabinets. But I am going to be sure the internal dividers are movable, and since I plan to hang things on both the outside and inside of the doors, that the hinges are strong, and I can remove old tool mounts and replace them with different ones without making new doors.

This will take some design and thought, but if you make one, why not make a few, with identical cabinet sizes, and modular, movable internal components. Then you could even use small french cleats on or in the cabinets with standard size cleats, for tool mounts, and another standard size cleat for the cabinets that is larger. And remember, if you make the hinge strong, you can install tools on the outside and inside of the doors.

Basically, that is what I am going to do. Standardize everything, and make everything adjustable and removeable. I think you should make everything out of wood or wood products so that you are in control. Small drawers, just like on my old tool tote can be plastic, however. Good ones seem indestructible. They need to be vinyl or something that is tough and resiliant, so that they don't break. I have a large number of small parts bins that I keep my larger nuts, bolts, nails, etc in. I got them over 30 years ago, and not one of them has cracked or broken. They are vinyl, not cheap acrylic, although the Lucite quality acrylic also seems to last forever.

I have a small adjustable wooden rack like structure for my cable modem, router, and a 16 port switch. I have already replaced the switch, and the cabinet adjusts for differnent size stuff. Tools, may last longer than electronics, but you will still replace, upgrade, and find you change what types of tools you use over the years.

There you have my nickels worth…...........or perhaps two cents worth…..........

Jim


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Slight adjustment to the parts cabinet design methinks...*
> 
> So this clamshell cabinet design that taunts me oh so often, and loudly too I might add, wanted to be changed a little bit last night. But It IS getting closer to final.
> 
> ...


We doubled on our last posts. Purplev's cabinet is the basic style I was thinking of. I am short of wall space, so I will mount tools on the outside also. I have used piano hinge for over thirty years, and keep some on hand and cut it to size. If it is mounted on the outside such as with thinner material, using a few nuts and bolts like at the ends and middle will improve strength considerably. I have a very heavy chain saw case built that way 30 years ago, and it has to support over 40 pounds, since it holds the top which has the handle, and it show no signs of failure.

Jim


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

*You guys stole my thunder... *

I am talking about bertch and nbeener. In nbeener's blog entry about the $175.00 workbench it would seem the idea that has been banging around in my head is taking shape in other guys shops. And the results are nice…

You see, my bench is okay. But just barely. There are mistakes that drive me CRAZY about my build here… In particular, my selection of base materials, cedar. It's pretty, bug and weather resistant, and machines super easy. That is ALL the good I can say about it… The stuff is super light, flexes like crazy and is just a terribly inappropriate material for a workbench. The top is okay, but overall, the entire thing lacks the mass I want for a proper workbench.

Overall the only things I am truly happy with about this bench are…

#1. The height. It works perfectly as an out feed support for my table saw.
#2. The Harbor Freight 9" Quick Release Vise.
#3. The 70" width is just right.

I would love to scrap the whole thing, pull the vise off, and start over again…

The cedar base can be repurposed as is to my wife's potting bench project I am working on in the back yard. This saves me from having to make one from PT 2×4s…

The top. Well not sure what I can do with a 24×70" 1.5" thick BB plywood top. I am sure I can come up with something…

So now that I have myself sold on the idea of building a new bench, that leaves a couple of questions.

#1. How to design / build the base?
#2. How to design / build the top?
#3. I have a face vise, what about an end vise? Do I really need one, and will it get in the way of my SMT?

My thought process on the material to use is… Well plentiful around here… Southern Yellow Pine. The recommendations I am hearing from fellow LJs and reports of what Chris Schwarz is recommending is 2×12x10, and as straight as I can get it. Now THAT is going to be fun! I will need to…

#1. Reposition my table saw in order to get the clearance to feed 10' long stock in and out of it…
#2. The existing bench will work for out feed support, but what about in feed support? I don't have rollers, or adjustable supports. But I DO have adjustable sawhorses. I suspect I will end up using them to support the stock having out of the end…

Now that I know HOW to rip the stock. I will need to know what sizes of what I will need…

I don't recall the issue offhand, but a couple of months ago, there was a plan in Shop Notes for a weekend workbench, made from 2×4s, that looked really good. I am thinking about ripping my stock 3.5" wide, and making it, well… sized to match those plans, accommodating the 3.5" thick top.

The top I am hoping to size to be 32" deep x 72" wide, and 3.5" thick, including breadboard ending the thing.

I am also thinking of laying out the spreaders on the legs to allow a shelf below the top for small tool storage. Again made from the 2x stock and laminated up.

In order to work with the vise I have, and potentially an end vise, I am figuring the base should be 24" deep, and 48" wide. I just hope, and pray that will provide a wide enough footprint. It does in my present setup, I just wanted some overhang that my present setup does not have…

So as I hammer out the details, and try to decide which way to go with the vises, I have a lot to think about. Particularly how on earth am I going to get this whole thing moved in to place once it is all built? If it works out as I am hoping and praying it will this thing should be a behemoth…


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *You guys stole my thunder... *
> 
> I am talking about bertch and nbeener. In nbeener's blog entry about the $175.00 workbench it would seem the idea that has been banging around in my head is taking shape in other guys shops. And the results are nice…
> 
> ...


I'll make my usual plug, but it sounds like you are thinking about it. Include shelves and or drawers, and load them with tools. That will make the bench feel like a piece of concrete, as long as the top is sturdy, and all your joints are good. Depending on what you are up to, ie are you making a show piece, or heirloom, or do you just want a good workbench, consider carriage bolts for joints, consider a plywood top. If you want the traditional bench, check out Timbo's.

Have a good one…....my wrists are better, I may get some shop time in this weekend.

Jim


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *You guys stole my thunder... *
> 
> I am talking about bertch and nbeener. In nbeener's blog entry about the $175.00 workbench it would seem the idea that has been banging around in my head is taking shape in other guys shops. And the results are nice…
> 
> ...


I want as little metal hardware in this thing as possible. So lag bolts are out. The part of me that needs more practice at it is screaming THROUGH TENONS! We'll see if I get enough gumption to actually want to go through that. The only thing I am certain of is the top size, and the fact that I want to make it with a SYP lamination. The stuff is inexpensive as all get out over here, and relatively easy to work with.

I am not wanting to build something to go in to the Smithsonian museum or anything, but I would love to build a bench that is well made enough, that I can hand this down God willing to a grand son, or grand daughter that has taken an interest in woodworking.

I did discover that the HF 9" Quick Release Woodworking vise is no longer listed on their website… I guess that is okay, that makes one decision for me…


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *You guys stole my thunder... *
> 
> I am talking about bertch and nbeener. In nbeener's blog entry about the $175.00 workbench it would seem the idea that has been banging around in my head is taking shape in other guys shops. And the results are nice…
> 
> ...


I am not sure why the edit function won't let me edit my post above… What I was trying to illustrate was the way Bert connected the end caps, using screws. While I like the breadboard ends, I do not want to use metal fasteners, but I am thinking of with similar alignment to bert's screws, using 3/8" walnut dowels… (I have a bunch of 3/8" walnut dowel stock just sitting around…)


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *You guys stole my thunder... *
> 
> I am talking about bertch and nbeener. In nbeener's blog entry about the $175.00 workbench it would seem the idea that has been banging around in my head is taking shape in other guys shops. And the results are nice…
> 
> ...


In that case, check out Timbo's, he seems pretty satisfied with his bench, and it is pretty to look at. I will probably stay with smaller work benches due to my proclivities, which do not include making chairs or tables.

The dowels sound neat, by the way, and it wouldn't take much to use them. (We doubled, so I am editing my post). With your intentions, there are a lot of neat techniques to use in a bench that will give you an opportunity for skill developement.

A workbench is certainly a very individual item. I was reminded most vividly again this week that I will never use hand tools much, my wrists absolutely will not take it. So a traditional workbench is mostly wasted on me. Although I might grab a plane now and then, or do some chisel work and handsanding, it will be mostly machines.

Have a good one, back to Sketchup for some design work for the TS dustcontrol/guard/splitter system.

Jim


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## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

dbhost said:


> *You guys stole my thunder... *
> 
> I am talking about bertch and nbeener. In nbeener's blog entry about the $175.00 workbench it would seem the idea that has been banging around in my head is taking shape in other guys shops. And the results are nice…
> 
> ...


I'm going to build a workbench right around the corner and it will be a traditional European workbench but I'm not sure which style yet. Nor am I sure of the wood. However, I do have access to 3×3 laminated maple lumber so I will probably use that because it's free and it's very straight and stable. Like Jim said, I will definitely put drawers under the bench because I have a small shop and have to use all available space. My bench will be heavy without the tools but even more so with the tools and the drawers. The ends of the base will be mortise and tenon with heavy inside panels. The rails will be at least 6 inches x 1-1/2 and the legs 2-3/4×2-3/4. The rails will have tenons and will be drawn into the leg mortices with heavy bolts and cylinder nuts. I will probably make the cylinder nuts and they will be 1 or 1-1/2 in dia. The bolts will be 1/2 - 3/4. This is what I've thought about so far and things might change.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *You guys stole my thunder... *
> 
> I am talking about bertch and nbeener. In nbeener's blog entry about the $175.00 workbench it would seem the idea that has been banging around in my head is taking shape in other guys shops. And the results are nice…
> 
> ...


Oh, and re editing….....you may be in preview mode, and that is pretty confusing when you try to edit, made that mistake yesterday….......

Jim


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *You guys stole my thunder... *
> 
> I am talking about bertch and nbeener. In nbeener's blog entry about the $175.00 workbench it would seem the idea that has been banging around in my head is taking shape in other guys shops. And the results are nice…
> 
> ...


*helluvawreck*

Sounds pretty neat. I have found the carriage bolts I used made joints that just have never moved at all. Of course, by adding shelves, and 3/4" plywood to the back and sides, I pretty much immobilized everything. That bench is absolutely solid and will not move even if you try. I think I got into some good old fashioned kiln dried lumber when I built it 40 years ago, and it hasn't split or shifted or shrunk at all. It is not finished, except for the plywood on the top. Like I said, gotta get to some design work…........later….......


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *You guys stole my thunder... *
> 
> I am talking about bertch and nbeener. In nbeener's blog entry about the $175.00 workbench it would seem the idea that has been banging around in my head is taking shape in other guys shops. And the results are nice…
> 
> ...


On the drawers thing. Most anything that goes in a drawer, I find I am more comfortable with it being hung on peg board. I know lots of guys hate this, but it works well for me… But yes, the storage space underneath the bench WILL NOT go to waste. All of my handheld power tools have cases, and are strewn about the shop. I am figuring the more heavily used tools such as drills, routers, sanders, biscuit joiner etc… will go on a shelf on this bench. The lesser used tools, such as the jig saw, angle grinder, circular saw, recip saw etc… can be stashed on the current shelf, and provide better storage for things like finishes on the lower shelf… It can work. I will have to post pics when I am done, but that will be a ways off…


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## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

dbhost said:


> *You guys stole my thunder... *
> 
> I am talking about bertch and nbeener. In nbeener's blog entry about the $175.00 workbench it would seem the idea that has been banging around in my head is taking shape in other guys shops. And the results are nice…
> 
> ...


DB, I don't have any problem with peg board. I don't like it personally but I always think it is best for each person to do what is best for himself and his situation and work style. It's good that you will use the space under your top for storage and it doesn't have to be drawers. Shelves are just as good. I will like very much to see how your bench turns out and wish you the best of luck with it. A good workbench is arguably the most important tool in anyone's shop and so it is good that you are concerned about having a really good bench.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *You guys stole my thunder... *
> 
> I am talking about bertch and nbeener. In nbeener's blog entry about the $175.00 workbench it would seem the idea that has been banging around in my head is taking shape in other guys shops. And the results are nice…
> 
> ...


Okay, I had a chance to read the Chris Schwarz article (That Neil and Bert didn't LINK to…), and there appears to be VERY good reasons to actually use lag bolts. However I still do not like the look of them. It is very possible that I can recess my lag bolts and plug the counterbores to look like BIG pegs…


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *You guys stole my thunder... *
> 
> I am talking about bertch and nbeener. In nbeener's blog entry about the $175.00 workbench it would seem the idea that has been banging around in my head is taking shape in other guys shops. And the results are nice…
> 
> ...


I have very large open topped drawers that were removed from some other shelves and put in the bench. I also have a shelf without a drawer, and frequently leave my hand power tools plugged in, but sitting on the shelf. That is a good arrangement. Be sure to consider electrifying your bench as well. Mine has three separate outlet strips/boxes. Most of the time they are nearly maxed out….........

No question about it, carriage bolts and lag screws are ugly. My lag screws are not visible, they are under the plywood top sheath, which is attached with countersunk deck screws. But my big carriage bolts are very visible.

Jim


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *You guys stole my thunder... *
> 
> I am talking about bertch and nbeener. In nbeener's blog entry about the $175.00 workbench it would seem the idea that has been banging around in my head is taking shape in other guys shops. And the results are nice…
> 
> ...


Oh, and I use a lot of pegboard, I store mostly hand power tools and socket sets under the bench.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

*Now that the workshop is clean, the upcoming projects list...*

Now that I have the shop clean, and I won't kill myself, or my family working out there, I have a list of stuff that I need to get done (in the shop, there are other projects but not woodworking neccesarily that need done too!).

#1. Wiring the shop with a sub panel, and at least a 60 amp main, 3 20 amp circuits. 1 for climate control (heat / ac), 1 for dust collection, and 1 for the running tool. That should be sufficient for my shop setup.

#2. Insulate the walls to keep from letting conditioned air heat or cool outdoor air… I am thinking of in place blown in insulation. This will require the siding between the garage doors be replaced (rotted at the bottom) and the sheetrock replaced. This will also be my opportunity to permanently duct the A/C in through that segment of wall, and make cold weather caps to keep winter from blowing in the holes…

#3. A modified version of Suwat Phruksawan's (sorry if I misspelled the name) space saving clamp rack. I want to increase my clamp storage capacity, and keep the overall footprint the same. I also want to figure out a way to integrate the upper shelf into the rack itself.

#4. Suwat's tall / multi purpose auxiliary fence for the BT3×00. This thing has a LOT of great functions from tenons, and tongue & groove to splines… Gotta love it!

#5. Build of MY design for a band saw log milling jig. I tried the Wood Magazine design, and utterly failed. I have some ideas how to improve it to where it will work the way I want it to.

#6. Doggie urn for our beloved Labrador Retriever Deacon. He is presently in a cheap, basic pine urn. I have the design laid out, and the plan is for a walnut trimmed maple urn, dovetailed, with a mesquite dog bone inlay, as well as inlaid license and ID tags. It's been a while, but I must admit, even though we have a great new dog, I still miss the old boy…

#7. Long blanket chest / coffee table. Basically I want to make an Amish blanket chest, but make the thing 4' long to use as a coffee table in the living room. This will be used to store DVDs and other misc media.

#8. TALL blanket chests (2) / end tables. Blanket chests built as end tables for the living room, oddly enough, to hold extra blankets… (Running out of room in the master closet, linen closets in my house are a joke…)

#9. Clocks. I have requests for copies of my Cross Clock that I designed and built in 2009 for my wife, as well as Tambour clocks, and shaker wall clocks. I LOVE building clocks so these may be the first projects that get done!

This should keep me more than busy enough. But with any luck, and LOML's cooperation, we will see if I can stay disciplined enough to clean the shop after use, and keep LOML from tossing whatnot out there just because she doesn't know where else to put it… Oh, maybe that will speed up project…

#10. A garden shed to keep non shop related stuff like lawn & garden, BBQ, and bicycles…


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## Cory (Jan 14, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Now that the workshop is clean, the upcoming projects list...*
> 
> Now that I have the shop clean, and I won't kill myself, or my family working out there, I have a list of stuff that I need to get done (in the shop, there are other projects but not woodworking neccesarily that need done too!).
> 
> ...


That's a good list! i wish our HOA would allow out buildings. I'd have my garden stuff out of my shop in a blink. I'd rather ask my wife to park outside than take on our HOA and ask for a variance, though!


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Now that the workshop is clean, the upcoming projects list...*
> 
> Now that I have the shop clean, and I won't kill myself, or my family working out there, I have a list of stuff that I need to get done (in the shop, there are other projects but not woodworking neccesarily that need done too!).
> 
> ...


My HOA C&R states a max size of 10×12x9, but there are a mess of 12×16, and 16×20 outbuildings, with roof heights in the teens. A variance should be plenty easy to get, but I only want to go 10×12… The hard part for me is the phone company ran the phone line diagonally across my yard and I need it moved. Actually removed would be fine. I have no plans on going back to a land line any time soon…


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Now that the workshop is clean, the upcoming projects list...*
> 
> Now that I have the shop clean, and I won't kill myself, or my family working out there, I have a list of stuff that I need to get done (in the shop, there are other projects but not woodworking neccesarily that need done too!).
> 
> ...


New topic. No particular reason, I write this now.

I have watched you over time. You truly do a blog. I do not. You outline what you are going to do and what you have done. I think I don't have the time and energy to do it, I envy you.

Neil has suggested I should do a true blog, on more than one occasion. Perhaps it would be a good venue for me. I don't know.

But let me say this, at least once. I really appreciate your communications describing what you are doing. It is fun to see the progress, especially since you have a goal, a design. And a budget. Limits makes it interesting. And I have some sense of what your limits are, in many intellectual dimensions…..because you have told us.

Just looking at a line or two, it reads pretty mundane. But a blog is a collection of many communications. Some of them very concrete, perhaps simplistic. And some are much more intellectual, and thoughtul. And some are insightful and reflective.

That's one of the reasons you always see me here. You let us into your shop life…..and then some.

Thanks.

........and then there are other reasons I am here…........and I don't think I have to state those…......

Jim


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

*Turned mallet from scrap SYP 4x4s in progress.*

Okay so this is probably stupid to post this at this point, but since when has that stopped me?

This really started out as a test of a shop made dust hood. I discovered VERY quickly that all the "duist hood" did for me was pick up sanding dust, but the shavings / etc… that come off the gouge at high velocity and get stuck to my shirt are pretty much on their own unless I put a port on the front of the lathe, or some sort of shield that would get in the way of my turning tools, no thanks…

So I figured I would chuck up a hunk of SYP 4×4 that I had from an old project that didn't pan out well. and simply set it up on the lathe, and started turning it to round. Now with that MOSTLY done, I am realizing the size is just about right for a mallet, aside from the length part that is, and I can fix that… 









Now mind you, this is going to get made using the most accurate measurement system known to man, the scientifically calibrated eyeball… Okay I have no real idea what I am doing with it other than noodling around with gouges and skews. But I DO know that I don't want this thing to be a baseball bat for sure. So I am planning on making it no longer than my factory made rubber mallets (12"), so I need to size up where the top, and bottom of this thing are going to be, and mark those points off, mark off the flare for the hand at the base, and where it flares up to the main striking portion, and start turning the handle down…

I have some extra time off tomorrow due to a work schedule slide, so I might just spend some spinny time getting my head straight, that is unless LOML has other ideas… If I can get in, do my work, and get out uninterrupted, I can get this done in probably 2 hours plus a bit for cleanup… So I am just hoping LOML doesn't have other plans for me…


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## dkirtley (Mar 11, 2010)

dbhost said:


> *Turned mallet from scrap SYP 4x4s in progress.*
> 
> Okay so this is probably stupid to post this at this point, but since when has that stopped me?
> 
> ...


How about something that surrounds the tool rest? That is where all the action is. A box that comes up under just below the edge of the tool rest and a bit of a hopper on the outside. Maybe have the hose come under the bed and connect on the front?


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## mpounders (Jun 22, 2010)

dbhost said:


> *Turned mallet from scrap SYP 4x4s in progress.*
> 
> Okay so this is probably stupid to post this at this point, but since when has that stopped me?
> 
> ...


I watched a guy who has been turning quite a while and who has a shop with top end equipment (powermatic lathe and oneida super dust gorilla). He had a vent on a stand behind the lathe to collect dust, but used nothing to collect chips. He wore a thin skull-cap like thing to keep it out of his hair and had a light jacket-thing with elastic-fitted sleeves and no collar. Chips stuck everywhere but on him. I'm thinking about some kinda downdraft table/grill that you would stand on when turning!


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Turned mallet from scrap SYP 4x4s in progress.*
> 
> Okay so this is probably stupid to post this at this point, but since when has that stopped me?
> 
> ...


I am wanting a leather turning apron, but catching turning chips is one of the things I have more or less given up on. I am planning on adding a floor sweep to the side of the band saw soon… (might be another quickie weekend project).


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

*Turned handle / block head walnut and red oak scrap mallet coming together...*

As I looked in the scrap bin something jumped out at me, an idea… I have all these small pieces of walnut and red oak scraps. But what can I do with them?

Another glance at the glue bottle and it soon became all to clear what I had to do with some of those pieces…

So I managed to get a blank 1.25" x 1" (sorry, couldn't quite go totally square here… ) of oak / walnut 14" long which is now chucked up into the lathe, and the turning actually started (but just barely knocked the corners off…)

Next is the head 2.5" tall, 5" long, and 3" wide is glued up and ready to come out of the clamps…

Mind you, the scale of this thing is probably going to come out screwy, but so far it has been fun practice. I figure on rounding off the edges on the head, and simply boring a hole in it to glue the handle on. We will see how well the rest of this project goes. But at least I am having fun with it for now… That is if the electricity will stay on long enough to keep the lathe powered up…


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Turned handle / block head walnut and red oak scrap mallet coming together...*
> 
> As I looked in the scrap bin something jumped out at me, an idea… I have all these small pieces of walnut and red oak scraps. But what can I do with them?
> 
> ...


I assume this mallet is for chisel work and such…......or the occasionally mischievous shop dog….......to chew on…......(-:


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Turned handle / block head walnut and red oak scrap mallet coming together...*
> 
> As I looked in the scrap bin something jumped out at me, an idea… I have all these small pieces of walnut and red oak scraps. But what can I do with them?
> 
> ...


I figure it will end up as a doggie toy the way things are going…


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Turned handle / block head walnut and red oak scrap mallet coming together...*
> 
> As I looked in the scrap bin something jumped out at me, an idea… I have all these small pieces of walnut and red oak scraps. But what can I do with them?
> 
> ...


Better use than fire wood. Might it make a good gavel perhaps…........for the occasional unruly dinner table conversation…..........(-:


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Turned handle / block head walnut and red oak scrap mallet coming together...*
> 
> As I looked in the scrap bin something jumped out at me, an idea… I have all these small pieces of walnut and red oak scraps. But what can I do with them?
> 
> ...


I am actually toying with the idea of turning the head as well and making a gavel instead… Funny you mentioned that ...


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Turned handle / block head walnut and red oak scrap mallet coming together...*
> 
> As I looked in the scrap bin something jumped out at me, an idea… I have all these small pieces of walnut and red oak scraps. But what can I do with them?
> 
> ...


the best mallet is the one with the right twist in the handle 

good luck 
Dennis


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

*Wide Drum Sander build, not much, but SOME progress...*

I hesitate to even mention this, what with the quality and thought that goes in to so many of the projects and blogs here, I just figure, this would be a waste of time and reading space, but then again, you never know. Maybe my ramblings can serve as a guide, or warning, whichever, to those wanting to duplicate what I am doing…

My intent is to use scrap material and cast offs to build the drum sander as much as possible. So in that vein, I have sourced (read dumpster dove) some 2×8 cutoffs from a reno site near me. Due to the capacity limits of my 6" bench top jointer, I ripped the lumber to 3.75" (ish) wide sections.

Next up was to run it through the jointer to get a flat surface. It appears there was a good, albeit twisted reason this lumber was pitched. Face jointing it got rid of the twist… Next up was the planer…

Simple quick passes made the top side parallel to the bottom side, and that is after all what a planer is for right? The results were smooth, and the lumber now usable, although somewhat thinner than the original 1.5" at 1" even, but that's quite all right with me for free wood!

Next up will have to wait for a couple of days. It seems my cheapo Harbor Freight hole saw set only goes up to 2" diameter, and I want to build a 3" drum. A friend of mine has a nice Milwaukee hole saw set, that goes up to 4", and he has offered to let me borrow the mandrel and cup for the 3" which is where I want to be with this…

I am hopeful that I can actually pull this off without any major problems. The eventual goal is going to be a 24" wide laminated 3" dia drum with a 1/2" center bore for the shaft. (actually I expect it to be slightly smaller than 3" as I will most likely have to even it up a hair after glue up…)

So far for this project, I have…

#1. Scrap lumber to build the drum.
#2. Scrap 1/2" rod. Not sure what it came from, but it was being thrown out at my BIL's auto body shop. The rod is 36" long smooth rod, no plating.
#3. Scrap 3/4 Melamine for the table.
#4. Scrap 2×4 lumber to build the stand. 
#5. Not scrap, but will be before it goes to this project, Harbor Freight 1 HP band saw motor. As soon as I get 220V in my shop, I am going to swap the 1.5 HP 220V Dayton motor into my HF band saw…
#6. Scrap 4" S&D PVC for dust port. 
#7. 4' of AccuLink link belt from Harbor Freight…

Materials left needed to be either found, donated to me, or purchased…
#1. 1/2" ID pillow block bearings.
#2. 1/2" ID and figure out the diameter pulleys. Not sure what RPM this thing should turn at. Suggestions?
#3. Proper switch / box. (I don't really want to re-use the HF switch even though I am upgrading the HF saw to a much nicer 220V capable safety switch, this is a want, but I want a 110V safety switch / box for this…)
#4. Wire to wire it up.
#5. Sandpaper / hook & loop setup to finish the drum.

This is going to be a painfully slow build as it isn't exactly a high priority, but it at least is moving forward!


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Wide Drum Sander build, not much, but SOME progress...*
> 
> I hesitate to even mention this, what with the quality and thought that goes in to so many of the projects and blogs here, I just figure, this would be a waste of time and reading space, but then again, you never know. Maybe my ramblings can serve as a guide, or warning, whichever, to those wanting to duplicate what I am doing…
> 
> ...


Now this is a project that David Craig will enjoy!!!.........(-:

Fellow dumpster divers.

I will watch with interest…......I who built his safety switch for his table saw….....understands…..(-:

Now the issue is, I don't have a great reason to do this type of stuff…......but let's admit it….....this type of thing draws me to the hobby. No, I am not going to build a drum sander. But I watch with great interest. Because I love to design things, and build them. Frustrated engineer…......well, not frustrated, but a career choice closely considered and discarded…....with a little grief.

So carry on. I will be watching and reading…........

Jim


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Wide Drum Sander build, not much, but SOME progress...*
> 
> I hesitate to even mention this, what with the quality and thought that goes in to so many of the projects and blogs here, I just figure, this would be a waste of time and reading space, but then again, you never know. Maybe my ramblings can serve as a guide, or warning, whichever, to those wanting to duplicate what I am doing…
> 
> ...


Funny you should mention it. I started out as a mechanical engineering major in college before differential equations ate my lunch…

The practice wife was an engineer. I am actually VERY happy I didn't end up in that field. I would probably be up on murder charges if I were with all the B.S. they have to deal with…

Honestly, I want to be building a cantilevered wide drum sander with a 24" drum so it would be 24/48 capacity, I doubt that a wood frame would put up with that sort of abuse. I am VERY tempted to scrounge through my BIL's scrap steel pile and gather enough scrap metal to fab a proper cantilever frame… I can design it, if I can get the in laws to help with the welding, I might just be able to build it… Another one of the reasons I am taking my sweet slow time to get this together…


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Wide Drum Sander build, not much, but SOME progress...*
> 
> I hesitate to even mention this, what with the quality and thought that goes in to so many of the projects and blogs here, I just figure, this would be a waste of time and reading space, but then again, you never know. Maybe my ramblings can serve as a guide, or warning, whichever, to those wanting to duplicate what I am doing…
> 
> ...


Yes, I too, do not regret my choice. I enjoy my mission, and have many more opportunities in life, where I am.

But, I miss the creativity thing…..so my hobbies fill a small void.

In my profession, I do some unusual and novel things, but on a daily basis, there is not much creativity. At work, I design, and invent things, in a more constrained, but very significant environment. But not on a regular basis. Medicine demands strict discipline, critical review of results, and only incremental changes. Way too much at stake.

Woodworking is a good outlet for me….........and apparently for you.

....but in this matter, I will be the voyeur….......a drum sander is something I would best buy, with my limited time and age.

................I envy your opportunity to do this…........so I will watch….........comment and enjoy…......

Jim


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Wide Drum Sander build, not much, but SOME progress...*
> 
> I hesitate to even mention this, what with the quality and thought that goes in to so many of the projects and blogs here, I just figure, this would be a waste of time and reading space, but then again, you never know. Maybe my ramblings can serve as a guide, or warning, whichever, to those wanting to duplicate what I am doing…
> 
> ...


I encourage you to be very patient on this one then. It's not a high priority project, but something I can do more or less between projects as a shop upgrade.

Professionally speaking, I tripped into my career entirely by accident. I was studying for a completely different field which I earned a degree, but ended up with a company that more or less loaned me out to the IT manager, who saw I had a knack for fixing computers, and the rest is more or less history. With experience, and more professional training than I can shake several sticks at I am now competing for jobs with guys in India. Thank God that what I do frequently requires I actually TOUCH servers, or I would be in deep doo doo…


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Wide Drum Sander build, not much, but SOME progress...*
> 
> I hesitate to even mention this, what with the quality and thought that goes in to so many of the projects and blogs here, I just figure, this would be a waste of time and reading space, but then again, you never know. Maybe my ramblings can serve as a guide, or warning, whichever, to those wanting to duplicate what I am doing…
> 
> ...


It probably won't take any more time than my project table…......mini workbench…...whatever it is. It si approaching the end game. Fortunately, I know it will get a lot of use, since it is just a souped up version of my old project tables that I have used for decades. It will be a good blog item, I think.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

*Considering design requirements for planter boxes / cages. *

LOML and I are enjoying fresh grown herbs and vegetables that my FIL is growing in small batches, and we wanted to try our hand at growing some of our own. However we have a young dog, who tends to dig and romp on everything he isn't blocked from, not to mention birds, and rabbits that come into the yard from the bayou. (No gators thank God…)

I would like to build either raised / enclosed planters, OR a floorless greenhouse / screen house for a small garden herb / vegetable garden.

We would like to grow the following…
#1. Tomatoes. We are presently growing some in a "Upsy Downsy" planter. The plant is literally growing upside down, it works, but the birds get more tomatoes than we do… 
#2. Cucumbers.
#3. Peppers. Specifically Jalapeno, Habanero, Poblano, Serrano, and Bell peppers.
#4. Basil
#5. Cilantro
#6. Onions 
#7. Parsley
#8. Oregano

I am thinking a screen enclosure of 12×10 size, tiered so I can plant the herbs in pots on a shelves, as well as the smaller peppers, the larger peppers and cucumbers can grow planted in the ground, and the tomatoes hung from the ridge beam of a "roof" structure. I am thinking about setting up basically a floorless shed frame, and wrapping it in some heavy duty window screening / hardware cloth type material that would be critter resistant, but allow the sun, rain, and breezes in…

Now the big question is, how do I do this, make it both functional, AND attractive. I am sure the HOA will see it, and don't want to give them any reason to fuss…


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

*Mulling over miter saw bench ideas...*

As some of you may or may not know, I have been actually rather pleased with my Chicago Electric 12" Sliding Compound Miter Saw. At least since giving it a good adjustment, and throwing the OEM blade in the trash and swapping in a nice Diablo 80T blade. What I am not happy with is housing this monstrosity. The rails for the slide at full rearward extension means that there must be a minimum of 30" from the front mounting holes for the saw, to whatever is behind it. With that much movement, the Firestorm miter saw stand made for an unstable work platform, which I felt was dangerous, so I had to do SOMETHING….

That something meant I was looking for somewhere to put that poor saw where it could be solidly mounted, and not do a hula dance as I cycled through the slide action of the saw. The only place I had that didn't frequently see other use was the Simpson Strong Tie bench, but it was a mere 24" deep… No problem I thought, I can fix this…










Now the solution I came up with was more of an act of desperation than anything else. And it is about as elegant as a sumo wrestler on stage at the ballet.

Now for the fun part….

LOML wants the freezer moved out to the shop…

The good part about that is, I have the go ahead to get the electrical and insulation done in the shop because, well I need power for the freezer don't I? And of course we don't want to overtax the poor freezer by trying to keep up with the heat in the shop, so if it was better insulated, therefore cooler in the shop, the freezer won't struggle so much to keep up right?

Anyway, so the lip thing a ma bob that the strong tie bench sits on, will have to house the freezer, close to the door… Don't want LOML traipsing through the shop all the way to get a frozen chuck roast do I?

That means the strong tie bench needs to..

#1. Get narrower width wise…. I need to bob it off from 8' to about 6'.
#2. Get deeper front to back. The freezer itself will be 28" from the wall to the handle of the door. So the fence of the saw actually needs to be at about 30" from the wall in case I need stock to pass in front of the handle… I figure this will put my overall depth at about 36" deep.
#3. Remain the same height, I use this to catch long offcuts from the table saw. Chances are the table saw will move closer to the overhead doors as well, shorter infeed, but keeps outfeed length good, will just have to open the garage door to infeed long stock…

So now I am thinking. I use the StrongTie bench for storage as well as work space etc… I am wondering if I should go back with a 2×4 framed basic plywood bench, or aim higher, with a very deep face frame type cabinet carcass, and a multi layer plywood top.

I would also like to use this same bench / cabinet to hold my, not yet obtained mortising machine, I figure I will need to know depths of tables / fences and such before building that as well…

So I have a LOT of building considerations here, and nothing I am coming up with in Sketchup is looking worth a (expletive deleted)! I need ideas!

So what have you guys or gals done for problem solving miter benches? Any good advise you can give me?


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## Racer2007 (Jan 13, 2011)

dbhost said:


> *Mulling over miter saw bench ideas...*
> 
> As some of you may or may not know, I have been actually rather pleased with my Chicago Electric 12" Sliding Compound Miter Saw. At least since giving it a good adjustment, and throwing the OEM blade in the trash and swapping in a nice Diablo 80T blade. What I am not happy with is housing this monstrosity. The rails for the slide at full rearward extension means that there must be a minimum of 30" from the front mounting holes for the saw, to whatever is behind it. With that much movement, the Firestorm miter saw stand made for an unstable work platform, which I felt was dangerous, so I had to do SOMETHING….
> 
> ...


I have the same saw and it works great for me after pretty much the same changes you made to yours. Don't really know how to help on your problem but I saw a guy that made kind of a tunnel into the wall behind the saw and it worked out as a dust collection point for it as well and we know how much dust these things throw out. Of course you have to have the space in the wall behind it for this to work.
Good Luck with it and let us see the final result


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Mulling over miter saw bench ideas...*
> 
> As some of you may or may not know, I have been actually rather pleased with my Chicago Electric 12" Sliding Compound Miter Saw. At least since giving it a good adjustment, and throwing the OEM blade in the trash and swapping in a nice Diablo 80T blade. What I am not happy with is housing this monstrosity. The rails for the slide at full rearward extension means that there must be a minimum of 30" from the front mounting holes for the saw, to whatever is behind it. With that much movement, the Firestorm miter saw stand made for an unstable work platform, which I felt was dangerous, so I had to do SOMETHING….
> 
> ...


The other side of that wall is my laundry room…. Going behind it won't work…

yeah these things pitch out a LOT of dust. One of the items that is on the agenda is a proper dust hood… This thing will bury the bench in sawdust with a couple of passes. And that is with the shop vac hooked up to it. I haven't tried necking down the DC hose to the fitting though. I figured 4" to 1.25" was just too far of a reduction….


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## Elizabeth (Oct 17, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Mulling over miter saw bench ideas...*
> 
> As some of you may or may not know, I have been actually rather pleased with my Chicago Electric 12" Sliding Compound Miter Saw. At least since giving it a good adjustment, and throwing the OEM blade in the trash and swapping in a nice Diablo 80T blade. What I am not happy with is housing this monstrosity. The rails for the slide at full rearward extension means that there must be a minimum of 30" from the front mounting holes for the saw, to whatever is behind it. With that much movement, the Firestorm miter saw stand made for an unstable work platform, which I felt was dangerous, so I had to do SOMETHING….
> 
> ...


Richard, do you remember where you saw the guy talk about putting a tunnel in his wall? That might actually be a feasible solution for me (I'm also working on miter saw bench options) because the wall it is against is a staircase with under-stair wood storage currently…


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## Racer2007 (Jan 13, 2011)

dbhost said:


> *Mulling over miter saw bench ideas...*
> 
> As some of you may or may not know, I have been actually rather pleased with my Chicago Electric 12" Sliding Compound Miter Saw. At least since giving it a good adjustment, and throwing the OEM blade in the trash and swapping in a nice Diablo 80T blade. What I am not happy with is housing this monstrosity. The rails for the slide at full rearward extension means that there must be a minimum of 30" from the front mounting holes for the saw, to whatever is behind it. With that much movement, the Firestorm miter saw stand made for an unstable work platform, which I felt was dangerous, so I had to do SOMETHING….
> 
> ...


Elizabeth, I just saw it at his house a few years ago. Basicly he just cut out the drywall between the studs behind the saw and boxed it in about 8" to 10" deep behind the saw and also tapered it down from the top to help in directing the sawdust down to the DC hose connected at the bottom of the box. Sorry I can't get a photo of it since he moved out of the area. It is pretty much like one of the Big Glup Hoods only built into the wall.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Mulling over miter saw bench ideas...*
> 
> As some of you may or may not know, I have been actually rather pleased with my Chicago Electric 12" Sliding Compound Miter Saw. At least since giving it a good adjustment, and throwing the OEM blade in the trash and swapping in a nice Diablo 80T blade. What I am not happy with is housing this monstrosity. The rails for the slide at full rearward extension means that there must be a minimum of 30" from the front mounting holes for the saw, to whatever is behind it. With that much movement, the Firestorm miter saw stand made for an unstable work platform, which I felt was dangerous, so I had to do SOMETHING….
> 
> ...


I am thinking about attaching a big gulp hood to the back of the saw.


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## Cato (May 1, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Mulling over miter saw bench ideas...*
> 
> As some of you may or may not know, I have been actually rather pleased with my Chicago Electric 12" Sliding Compound Miter Saw. At least since giving it a good adjustment, and throwing the OEM blade in the trash and swapping in a nice Diablo 80T blade. What I am not happy with is housing this monstrosity. The rails for the slide at full rearward extension means that there must be a minimum of 30" from the front mounting holes for the saw, to whatever is behind it. With that much movement, the Firestorm miter saw stand made for an unstable work platform, which I felt was dangerous, so I had to do SOMETHING….
> 
> ...


The big gulp hood actually works pretty decent. I have one behind my miter saw, as well as a necked down connection to the miter saw dust port.

All are connected to the DC

Like you, however, I need a better station as mine is sitting on the deck of my old craftsman RAS.

I need to build a dedicated stand and enclose a little around the big gulp to catch that little bit of side spray.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Mulling over miter saw bench ideas...*
> 
> As some of you may or may not know, I have been actually rather pleased with my Chicago Electric 12" Sliding Compound Miter Saw. At least since giving it a good adjustment, and throwing the OEM blade in the trash and swapping in a nice Diablo 80T blade. What I am not happy with is housing this monstrosity. The rails for the slide at full rearward extension means that there must be a minimum of 30" from the front mounting holes for the saw, to whatever is behind it. With that much movement, the Firestorm miter saw stand made for an unstable work platform, which I felt was dangerous, so I had to do SOMETHING….
> 
> ...


Brain storming….......corners are usually poorly used. If you keep the stand for the miter saw mobile you could do most cuts in place in a corner, and pull it out and swivel it for long pieces, using neighbor bench or tooltops for support? Just brain storming.

My TS moves around a bit for that reason. Actually, so does my RAS, but it is well situated for long pieces with the assist of support….........


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

*LOML complained about how messy the sheet goods in the shop are... *

Now I've got not only her approval, but her insistance that I build a sheet goods rack / organizer. I will be using the Wood Whisperer design, sort of. The bottom and back will be from 2×12 lumber as I have it already, the wall cleat will be 2×4. Again I already have it… Just need some full sheets of ply, hinges, and a couple of decent casters and we are ready to go…

I will NOT be going up the wall as Marc does with his lumber rack as I already have one I am very pleased with, and do not want to replace it…

Like more of my recent projects, this too will be painted bright white to eliminate the darkening effect. By the time I am done, this shop is going to end up looking like a lumber operating room!

Due to budget, and the fact that I have had very good success with it so far, I am planning on going with 3/4" Aracuo ply as it is $25.00 / sheet around here.

For casters, I am thinking about the Grizzly G8176 4" Heavy Duty swivel caster with brake. That should provide me with plenty of durability for this application.

My floor does slope, so a 1/4" eye and hook setup will be used to keep the cart from swiveling out toward the table saw on its own.

Hopefully, this will help keep that area organized, and maybe, just maybe give me easier access to the stock I want to use…


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *LOML complained about how messy the sheet goods in the shop are... *
> 
> Now I've got not only her approval, but her insistance that I build a sheet goods rack / organizer. I will be using the Wood Whisperer design, sort of. The bottom and back will be from 2×12 lumber as I have it already, the wall cleat will be 2×4. Again I already have it… Just need some full sheets of ply, hinges, and a couple of decent casters and we are ready to go…
> 
> ...


I am going to make one as well. Mine will be mobile and hold a modest amount of sheet goods, probably the amount I normally keep on hand Above that, on the garage wall I think I will make a lumber rack. I may also cull and revamp the storage of lumber up ceiling level alongside two beams in the garage/ship. First comes the cutoffs cart, then the sheetgoods rack, and I will finally have everything off the floor…......

Have a good one, busy this week…............


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

dbhost said:


> *LOML complained about how messy the sheet goods in the shop are... *
> 
> Now I've got not only her approval, but her insistance that I build a sheet goods rack / organizer. I will be using the Wood Whisperer design, sort of. The bottom and back will be from 2×12 lumber as I have it already, the wall cleat will be 2×4. Again I already have it… Just need some full sheets of ply, hinges, and a couple of decent casters and we are ready to go…
> 
> ...


I built the A-frame style featured in Shop Notes I believe. I bought the wheels like you indicated. I can't remember if I got 4 or 5 inch wheels but I would recommend buying the largest diameter available that you can afford. Mine is difficult to roll because of the weight. I ended up with about 5 sheets of ply on mine for the cart then whatever I store. It is heavy and not easy to roll. I don't think I will ever need the brakes.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *LOML complained about how messy the sheet goods in the shop are... *
> 
> Now I've got not only her approval, but her insistance that I build a sheet goods rack / organizer. I will be using the Wood Whisperer design, sort of. The bottom and back will be from 2×12 lumber as I have it already, the wall cleat will be 2×4. Again I already have it… Just need some full sheets of ply, hinges, and a couple of decent casters and we are ready to go…
> 
> ...


I am opting for the 4" casters as they are in use in other place I am familiar with. In particular, my Brother In Law replaced the OEM casters on his 40 year old Craftsman mechanics tool chest with a set, and they roll super easy. I figure the plywood cart would be easier to move…

Hadn't considered a detached cart… Got any pics / plans for me to take a peek at?


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

dbhost said:


> *LOML complained about how messy the sheet goods in the shop are... *
> 
> Now I've got not only her approval, but her insistance that I build a sheet goods rack / organizer. I will be using the Wood Whisperer design, sort of. The bottom and back will be from 2×12 lumber as I have it already, the wall cleat will be 2×4. Again I already have it… Just need some full sheets of ply, hinges, and a couple of decent casters and we are ready to go…
> 
> ...


http://lumberjocks.com/projects/42798
This is the same cart I mentioned building. I modified mine to make it 32 inches wide across the base I believe. I made it larger than the plans called for by about 4 inches. It was a good thing because I filled the area immediately just by storing the ply I had around the shop. I like it a lot. I have the high quality wheels like you have mentioned. I think the original plans called for a piece of 2×6 cut to a triangle and placed across the corners for the castors. I chose to use 2×4 across the base like floor joists. Then I covered the bottom side with a sheet of 7/16 OSB. We have so many Brown Recluse in my area that I hate to make home for them. 
WASMITHEE says he used 4" castors as called out int he plans so that is what I have. This thing is heavy so light duty is not an option. I have a difficult time getting it to start rolling but I don't move it often or very far.


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## bluekingfisher (Mar 30, 2010)

dbhost said:


> *LOML complained about how messy the sheet goods in the shop are... *
> 
> Now I've got not only her approval, but her insistance that I build a sheet goods rack / organizer. I will be using the Wood Whisperer design, sort of. The bottom and back will be from 2×12 lumber as I have it already, the wall cleat will be 2×4. Again I already have it… Just need some full sheets of ply, hinges, and a couple of decent casters and we are ready to go…
> 
> ...


I like the idea of painting it white - I have my shop Decor and machines white (JET), like you state, reduces the "cave" effect.

The only problem is I hate to see it get dirty!


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *LOML complained about how messy the sheet goods in the shop are... *
> 
> Now I've got not only her approval, but her insistance that I build a sheet goods rack / organizer. I will be using the Wood Whisperer design, sort of. The bottom and back will be from 2×12 lumber as I have it already, the wall cleat will be 2×4. Again I already have it… Just need some full sheets of ply, hinges, and a couple of decent casters and we are ready to go…
> 
> ...


I am still in the thinking stage on the sheet goods rack. It needs to be fairly narrow, and won't allow much other storage. The two big beams in the garage have quick and dirty racks on them…....but they have lasted for nearly 20 years. I am amazed at the amount of wood, plastic pipe, gutter spouts, etc that they have collected. They need a redo. On of them holds a sizable amount of jatoba destined for the last phase of remodeling.

My cutoffs cart is partially made, meaning the torsion box from scrap is done. I am still trying to decide on the most efficient method of storing stuff on it. It is 26" x 31", and will fit under the table saw wing, or one of the old timey project tables I have. I need to have it fit under things, or it will always be in the way. It will not get a permanent spot in the shop. It will just have to find space, such as under tables, that is not currently in use. With any luck I will finish it this weekend, but I am on call, so those plans may get dashed.

Got to run, should be around later today….......


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

*I need to do this one quick. Canoe shed...*

Been banging on this in Sketchup, but I am coming up with nothing… Here's my problem, maybe the good folks at LJs can help me figure this out…

I have a canoe, 14' 6" from bow to stern. It presently lives covered up under a tarp across 2 sawhorses. UV is getting to the tarp, and I do NOT want it getting to the hull of my plastic boat…

So what to do?

I have pondered this before, and I am going to again to see if I can get some ideas here… So here is my problem…

I need to store an object, that given SOME reasonable space on each end, will take up 15' of length, is 37" wide, and while specs don't show clearly, I would suspect from the keel to the tip of the bow / stern it has maybe 36 - 38" rocker. Now all I want to do is keep the UV off of it, and the critters out of it. Off the ground so the dog doesn't use it as a urinal would be good too…

It needs to be somewhat secure, but not Ft. Knox… A heavy duty bicycle cable lock and an eyelet would be good enough to lock it down. A determined thief would have no qualms smashing in a shed, I just need to stop the opportunity thieves…

My thoughts are a simple pole shed-ish thing. using the fence posts as supports…

I am honestly fishing for ideas really bad right now. I am pulling a brain blank…

Any ideas guys? I am limited on space, and funds. let's see what we can come up with!


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## dkirtley (Mar 11, 2010)

dbhost said:


> *I need to do this one quick. Canoe shed...*
> 
> Been banging on this in Sketchup, but I am coming up with nothing… Here's my problem, maybe the good folks at LJs can help me figure this out…
> 
> ...


Hoist it up to the ceiling/rafters. Upside down to keep it from being a cool nesting space.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *I need to do this one quick. Canoe shed...*
> 
> Been banging on this in Sketchup, but I am coming up with nothing… Here's my problem, maybe the good folks at LJs can help me figure this out…
> 
> ...


Ceiling / rafters where?


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## Raspar (Oct 12, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *I need to do this one quick. Canoe shed...*
> 
> Been banging on this in Sketchup, but I am coming up with nothing… Here's my problem, maybe the good folks at LJs can help me figure this out…
> 
> ...


The previous owner built a lean to against the garage. He built a front with a door and back, fence on lot line was about 4ft away and he added tin roof between the garage and fence. I have my big ladders out there is enough to keep them dry and covered.

Just a thought.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *I need to do this one quick. Canoe shed...*
> 
> Been banging on this in Sketchup, but I am coming up with nothing… Here's my problem, maybe the good folks at LJs can help me figure this out…
> 
> ...


We talked about this one before. Obviously a sticky problem for you. Nothing new here.

When doing something like this, sometimes a walk through HD or Lowe's looking at all construction materials will give you an idea. Perhaps a couple of 6" square posts placed in the ground roughly 11 feet apart, with a 3 or 4 foot wide post fixed horizontally on each of them to set the canoe on, and to chain the canoe to. Two chains needed. Or, you could attach them to thwarts, but I like the idea of around the whole canoe as a hold down in case of high winds. If they are nearer the ends, the canoe couldn't be slid out from under them. Then any kind of cover you want, from a tarp, to something made from metal or wood. The two T posts would get it off the ground, and a tarp would keep things out. Put on the tarp before putting on the chains. That's as cheap as I can think of, and it would protect from weather and vandals, to a point.

The cover could be mutated over time, but the posts, chains, and tarp would be a quick, cheap fix for the moment.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *I need to do this one quick. Canoe shed...*
> 
> Been banging on this in Sketchup, but I am coming up with nothing… Here's my problem, maybe the good folks at LJs can help me figure this out…
> 
> ...


Yes, we have gone down this path before. I settled on sawhorses and a tarp, but the Poly tarp does not like long term exposure to UV, kind of like the hull to the canoe…

What prompted this whole thing is I ripped the tarp when putting the boat back up last weekend… I took it for a paddle down the bayou, did some fishing, no gators this time thankfully… But there is a reason the Mossberg rides, ahem… shotgun with me on the bayou…

I have been having some ideas , the big technical issue I am stumped with is how to deal with that 16' span without having support columns in the way…

If it weren't for the span, I would say a simple box, with a peaked roof and an open side that I could just use a canvas tarp as s door would suffice…


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *I need to do this one quick. Canoe shed...*
> 
> Been banging on this in Sketchup, but I am coming up with nothing… Here's my problem, maybe the good folks at LJs can help me figure this out…
> 
> ...


If you want a structure, build it like a clamshell. If you keep the top light you should be OK. Then it could be lift off or hinged. I had a greenhouse that was built with barn shaped trusses. They were 2×4's with plywood at each joint front and back, glued and screwed. Built the trusses on the garage floor. One of the only times I actually used a set of plans. I would make a series of prebuilt trusses using much lighter construction, since the width is only 3 feet and there is no snow load. Use thin reinforced plywood or some such for the rest of the structure. Here is the time to walk through HD or Lowe's and see what is available. Some stuff is listed as UV resistant, such as fiberglass…........


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## Sarit (Oct 21, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *I need to do this one quick. Canoe shed...*
> 
> Been banging on this in Sketchup, but I am coming up with nothing… Here's my problem, maybe the good folks at LJs can help me figure this out…
> 
> ...


I think your biggest issue is figuring out how you want to get the boat in and out. If you have some sort of wheeled carriage then you can put doors on the gable ends. If you need to lift it onto racks inside the shed, you'll either need to make it more than double wide so that you have room to put the boat onto the racks once you're inside the shed. If you need to keep the shed narrow, then perhaps the whole side wall becomes a tilt up door which doubles as an awning when you load/unload.


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## dkirtley (Mar 11, 2010)

dbhost said:


> *I need to do this one quick. Canoe shed...*
> 
> Been banging on this in Sketchup, but I am coming up with nothing… Here's my problem, maybe the good folks at LJs can help me figure this out…
> 
> ...


Well, I was going to say the ceiling of the shop but then I remembered the pics of all the free space you have there 

Ok, depends on how secure you are in yard, but another option is up under a soffit

Then we get to the one I though of tonight:

Make an outdoor seating area that just happens to be long enough to house the canoe under the seat. It could be with a table in the end like the old time twin beds that they had in hotels where one rolled up under the corner table. Too big for the causal thieves to haul off and more secure. A lot prettier too.

Another idea would be to make it a feature. Make a really long doghouse and put up a sign advertising the world's largest dachshund…


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *I need to do this one quick. Canoe shed...*
> 
> Been banging on this in Sketchup, but I am coming up with nothing… Here's my problem, maybe the good folks at LJs can help me figure this out…
> 
> ...


Ah, I got it… Yeah, it is sort of my intent to keep the boat out of the shop if I can. My ceilings aren't all that high, and the only space open enough to hang the boat I used to hang the air filter for the shop…

I am seriously considering a more traditional marine approach. I have been reviewing designs for boat covers. Basically a wooden skeleton with a canvas duck skin…

All I really need to provide with the cover is just that, cover. The boat needs to be protected from UV when not in use. Honestly the cheapest way is to simply just go grab another inexpensive poly tarp.

The way I consider it, if I blow through a tarp every 2 to 3 years,I would be fine… That *SHOULD* buy me the time to put up the 12×16 shed in the back yard, and tack on the lean to roof to cover the canoe like I originally wanted to. Not to mention, it keeps me open to do other projects, like figure out where my wall scraper for peeling wallpaper walked off to like I should be doing right now…


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *I need to do this one quick. Canoe shed...*
> 
> Been banging on this in Sketchup, but I am coming up with nothing… Here's my problem, maybe the good folks at LJs can help me figure this out…
> 
> ...


Okay, I spent a little bit of quality time out there, with duct tape to patch up the existing tarp. No joke… Hey it'll block UV until I can get out to get a new tarp!

I have been talking with one of my neighbors that I occasionally paddle past in the Bayou… He's got a shed, the size I want actually, with a lean-to sort of roof off of one side and a simple canoe cradle that he uses to protect his boat when he's not paddling…

I know Kayaks are easier to store, but I hate being upside down in the water where there's Gators…

For now, we will just call it good…I have too many other projects going on to do this…


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *I need to do this one quick. Canoe shed...*
> 
> Been banging on this in Sketchup, but I am coming up with nothing… Here's my problem, maybe the good folks at LJs can help me figure this out…
> 
> ...


Good old Alaskan solution, duct tape. Remember the simple solution for getting it off of the ground, and just go with the tarp as you are now. You could go for 30 years replacing tarps occasionally for the price of canoe garage…...


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *I need to do this one quick. Canoe shed...*
> 
> Been banging on this in Sketchup, but I am coming up with nothing… Here's my problem, maybe the good folks at LJs can help me figure this out…
> 
> ...


If Im still paddling this boat in 30 years I will be known as the feeder on the Bayou…


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *I need to do this one quick. Canoe shed...*
> 
> Been banging on this in Sketchup, but I am coming up with nothing… Here's my problem, maybe the good folks at LJs can help me figure this out…
> 
> ...


All good things must come to an end…......(-:

Glad you got yourself a solution….......by the way, now back in Anchorage…....gadzooks, trying to get the house back in order….....

Tomorrow…...


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

*In the shop, and then on to Sketchup...*

It's one of those deals… The Sketchup models that I need, don't exist, or the ones I made aren't worth a warm bucket of spit.

You see I need to design a pair of flip top tool stands. But I want to guarantee they fit my tools, while using the least amount of floor space possible…

My tool stacker is great, but has some disadvantages that are wearing very thin on me right now… As many of you may or may not remember, I have back problems. The doc and I are working to fix them, okay the doc is fussing, and I am doing the therapy, anyway I digress…

That lifting of the planer, jointer, and bench grinder are a big part of what keeps me from being more productive in the shop. And elsehwere the miter saw sucks up a ton of room, and the mortiser is rarely used. And I want to fix these problem, my solution is, for better or worse, a pair of flip top stands.

One of these stands is to house my Ryobi AP1301 planer, and my Sunhill SM-150B bench top jointer. The other to house my HF 12" SCMS, and HF mortising machine.

My initial attempt at modelling the Sunhill jointer was just to get an idea of scale, and it was sloppy at best.

http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=cd0fc40f26235a2478353166fcf5b850&prevstart=24









My next attempt is at least more detailed. I do still need to work on some of the details such as the fence, guard, and switch, but it is coming along nicely…

http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=4502a21e5657d115f624ad6356a6878a&prevstart=12









And of course the planer. The model I started out with was barely sufficient for size, and whomever originally posted it took it down. It honestly stunk that badly. There is a nice model of a DW735 up there though!

Long story short, I am trying to get the models of my tools as accurate as possible, so that I can build the models of the stands and test things like rotation of the head assembly in a virtual environment prior to even buying the lumber for the build… The models that are out there, left me very wanting for something better to insure the accuracy of my builds…

The build of the sander is still in progress, although slow it is going. I have yet to get the shaft into a machine shop, but I at least have the drum assembly well under way. The plugs are in progress, and the drum piece is cut to final length and drilled / counter sunk for the mount holes.

After a painful amount of deliberation, I have opted to go with a 24" drum. I am probably off my rocker here, but the sander overall will be kind of huge, I waned to minimize the hit to the floor space, and would never use anything wider than 24" (he says now…).

All this happening while also continuing with the remodelling… Ugh.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *In the shop, and then on to Sketchup...*
> 
> It's one of those deals… The Sketchup models that I need, don't exist, or the ones I made aren't worth a warm bucket of spit.
> 
> ...


Hold your tongue lad, I can't even get into the shop, let alone Sketchup.

I have made it a rule that I will not do anything of significance in my off time until I get my programming project done. Now I remember why I quit doing programming in a hobby sense.

But this is a very focused work project that will actually generate money, so it is under a halo. Plus, my keyboard challenged Physicians Assistant really needs it…...a long time friend and employee who merits most anything I can do for him. The structure of the program is well developed and 95% completed. It has gone through a myriad of changes, for it has to be an interface marvel to work properly. But I have to still have to make the content, meaning the medically specific stuff, although I have finally worked out the structure to my satisfaction. Anyone who wants to get into the language end of medicine should first realize that the average physician adds 50,000 words to his vocabulary during training…...we normally use 500 words in ordinary conversation. Fortunately, I have a circumscribed arena to encompass with the templates.

So I haven't been in the shop in a serious manner for a couple of months, and I fear I have one month to go. But I will be doing some shop stuff down in La Conner for a short week at the end of the month. My comments on LJ's have been terse and sporadic as evidence of the collateral damage in my life. Got maxed out today, so you are the recipient of an indulgence….....(-:

So…...remember…....it is only the outer dimensions of your object that are important in a flip top design. I have done that somewhere, sometime in my life, in Sketchup, but the specifics escape me. Maybe it was the sawdust control, still not completed for my contractor's saw, where things have to be enclosed, but allow for the movement of the motor, belt, and associated apparatus. So you don't have to make a pretty thing, just something with the dimensions at the limits of the object done with accuracy. I did that with my convoluted woodworkers vise installation on my multipurpose bench, as well, but that is a linear, not a rotary problem. Another linear application was my strange table saw switch, that has turned out to be an absolutely delightful and usually unnoticed addition to the shop. It always works, and I don't think about it.

I have volumes of verbiage to impart here on LJ's, but it is on hold till I get through the current dominating project….......kinda like your remodelling.

Hope you and family are doing well…....been kinda off the grid to some extent for awhile…...work related. But have followed your stuff closely…....although the drum sander is not something I would ever do…....

Jim


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## BigTiny (Jun 29, 2010)

dbhost said:


> *In the shop, and then on to Sketchup...*
> 
> It's one of those deals… The Sketchup models that I need, don't exist, or the ones I made aren't worth a warm bucket of spit.
> 
> ...


Okay, the only important dimensions are the clearances. In other words, don't build a 22" base if the tool is 24" and so on. Make your flip platform sized to fit the larger of the two tools it will hold. The clearance between the cut out on the back and the tools should be as close as possible without getting silly about it. An inch is fine. All you need to figure that out is a sillouette of both tools. Almost as important is balance. Try to make it as balanced as possible, keeping the center of gravity as close to the pivot as you can, even giving up some clearance if you must, as a balanced unit will be much easier on your back when you flip it.

Make the side uprights as stiff as you can, as this will stabilize the tool when in use. A good way to do this is to make the uprights a narrow set of drawers to hold small accessories, bits, sandpaper etc. Another set of drawers under the flip will make the base sturdy.

Most such stands have both shelves supporting the tools the same size. This has its drawbacks. I prefer to make one tool shelf wider than the other by an inch on each side, then put a support on the uprights one one side of the pivot running all the way from the pivot to the edge of the tool shelf and the same width as the flip assembly is thick. That way, when one tool is on top the shelf rests on top of this support and when the other tool is on top the shelf "rests" against the bottom. Then you only have one end to lock in place to get a really solid placement.

As for the drum sander, if you have a lathe you're halfway there. The lathe provides the bearings, power and bed. All you need to add is your drum and whatever table assembly you want, adapted to fit on the lathe. When not in use it can be made to store under the lathe, giving you another dual use of space.

One last hint: don't put two tools you will want to use one after the other on the same flippy stand or you'll be flipping it back and forth all day long. 

I hope the above is clear enough as I've been up for over 48 hours right now and for all I know, I'm typing this in my sleep. If you need anything clarified, let me know and I'll give it a try.

Paul


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *In the shop, and then on to Sketchup...*
> 
> It's one of those deals… The Sketchup models that I need, don't exist, or the ones I made aren't worth a warm bucket of spit.
> 
> ...


Johnathan, I have to ask… What metal texture did you use for the table? I like that one better than the default one in Sketchup…

I bet Powermatic die hards are having a hissy fit about that right now…

Anyway, I digress. I have considered a rotary table, but am concerned with how much space it would take…


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

*Now that the shop is approaching usefulness again. Thresholds for tile to concrete transition!*

So long story short, I am hanging the plywood plank flooring up for a while. LOML has decreed we shall have real hardwood, etc… so I have to rethink the project there. For the time being we are going to cheap out somewhat…

You see a few months ago we were at a friend of her's baby shower. They had recently remodeled, well a wreck of a house, on a budget. They yanked all the carpet up, prepped the concrete flooring, and stained it. Then they put area rugs with padding in critical areas, like the span between TV and sofa to use as a Wii excersize pad without killing their shins… So for the time being, until we get more pressing projects done, smoothed and stained concrete it shall be!

So as we wait for the time when we will redo the full flooring with pecan / hickory flooring, and until then, I will be making some simple threshold to transition from concrete, up the 1/2" to the tile… The idea is to keep people from snagging a toe or whatever on the tile…

The pecan lumber is on the rack, has been drying now for , well over a year and a half… I should be ready to go once dust colleciton is up and going. But that begs the next question…

Use the good pecan, walnut, or go with cheap oak because it will be getting ripped out when I do the hardwood flooring anyway?


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Now that the shop is approaching usefulness again. Thresholds for tile to concrete transition!*
> 
> So long story short, I am hanging the plywood plank flooring up for a while. LOML has decreed we shall have real hardwood, etc… so I have to rethink the project there. For the time being we are going to cheap out somewhat…
> 
> ...


If you are doing a small area, then one would think it wouldn't be important. However, you might use it as a learning opportunity, and a test of your choice of wood for the final flooring.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

*Found the plan I want to work from. Box joint jig build start!*

I finally managed to find the plan I have been looking for, so a new build from me will be featured soon, but to give you a heads up on what is coming, the Shop Notes Box Joint Jig. I finally found out what issue it is in…

Vol 11, Issue #62, starting on Page 6.

I figure once I get that squared away as it were, I can dig in and start the build for the shadow boxes I have been putting off…


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## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

dbhost said:


> *Found the plan I want to work from. Box joint jig build start!*
> 
> I finally managed to find the plan I have been looking for, so a new build from me will be featured soon, but to give you a heads up on what is coming, the Shop Notes Box Joint Jig. I finally found out what issue it is in…
> 
> ...


Congrats, good luck and keep us posted on progress


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## Woodmaster1 (Apr 26, 2011)

dbhost said:


> *Found the plan I want to work from. Box joint jig build start!*
> 
> I finally managed to find the plan I have been looking for, so a new build from me will be featured soon, but to give you a heads up on what is coming, the Shop Notes Box Joint Jig. I finally found out what issue it is in…
> 
> ...


Simple designs of Ocala has a video on YouTube of Laney making a box jig. I used it and shopnotes to make mine.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

*I mentioned it before, I am starting it tonight... Box joint jigs...*

Tonight is a simple project, kind of…

I need box joint jigs, for 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2"

The big issue is going to be getting the required pieces but, safely.

My thought process is to take several pieces of walnut scrap, plane them down to 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" thick respectively, then rip them to width after sacrificing some scrap to make certain I have the width correct.

Once I have the indexing pins made the rest should be easy peasy, with one caveat.

My table saw is a Ryobi BT3100 with a sliding miter table. The miter fence on that isn't like your usual miter gauge, I need to figure out a way to secure the jig to the fence. I figure going over and behind the fence in U fashion, and then using a threaded star knob / bolt / insert, and jam nut setup to tension to the fence should work… Not as neat and pretty as a regular miter fence… I do have slots on my saw, and after painstaking alignment, they are lined up. I might have to just grab a basic miter gauge for this function…

I guess it might be time to grab that Incra V27… And get to making boxes!


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## Stoli (Mar 7, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *I mentioned it before, I am starting it tonight... Box joint jigs...*
> 
> Tonight is a simple project, kind of…
> 
> ...


There is a t-channel in the miter fence you can use to attach jigs to. The trick will be finding compatable nuts that fit in the channel.


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## TheCityWoodWorker (Mar 29, 2014)

dbhost said:


> *I mentioned it before, I am starting it tonight... Box joint jigs...*
> 
> Tonight is a simple project, kind of…
> 
> ...


I made an adjustable box joint jig a few weeks ago it cuts joints from 1/4 to 1". I used the plans from shop notes #8. It works great.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *I mentioned it before, I am starting it tonight... Box joint jigs...*
> 
> Tonight is a simple project, kind of…
> 
> ...


Don't much about your saw, so don't have any useful commentary.

My old Delta Contractor's Saw in Anchorage is very standard, and with the Vega fence, super sled, and an Incra 1000HD, a recent purchase, I can usually make things work out. Here in La Conner I have the Rigid R4512. The fence that came with is not quite as good as the Vega, but it doesn't need replacement. I picked up an inexpensive sled from Rockler, and have an Incra 1000HD here also. I tend to duplicate things at the two shops to minimize relearning things. Seems to be a lot of box joint jig plans out there, so I assume you will find something that will work.

I am putting 1/8" thick pine strips on the 3/4" plywood edges on my pedestals and torsion boxes today. They make up the parts of my torsion box bench. I was hoping to post it this trip, but I think it will be tough to get the trim done this week. I will probably finish it with Watco (what else…..(-: ........) when I can leave things outside to dry. Putting the pine trim on is worth it, because then there is no delamination of the veneer. The pine puts up with a lot more abuse than iron on edging, although I use that for non-shop objects.

So, will be interested to see what you come up with for a box joint jig…......

Later…...........


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *I mentioned it before, I am starting it tonight... Box joint jigs...*
> 
> Tonight is a simple project, kind of…
> 
> ...


Stoli, I actually went ahead and ordered some T nuts, and star knobs from http://t-nuts.com/index.php for this. FWIW, if you do order from them, please be sure that you list BT3Central.com as the referrer…

I ill also head over to the hardware store and pick up a few 5/16-18 various length bolts, and make my own star knobs… I had fun making them for my jointer, why not for jigs?


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

*Kitchen remodel. Moving ahead, and more of the same...*

We are contemplating a motif for our kitchen, and pondering materials…

Our kitchen has a breakfast bar into the dining room, and one request I have from my wife is that we have a live edge on the dining room side of the breakfast bar. So obviously we are leaning toward a wood counter top surface.

The concerns should be obvious. Moisture.

So now the brain gears get going to work..

Granite in early / mid 2017 is averaging $60.00 sq/ft in the Houston metro area. Plus installation. The counter top is 25" deep, and I have 16 linear feet so let's do some math.

Let's just round down to make the math easier for my public math education here.

2' x 16' = 32 sq / ft x 60.00 = $1920.00 + ~ $400.00 guesstimate for installation and the extra inch, which leaves us at $2320.00 + Tax for kitchen counters.

I have already mentioned that my wife wants a live edge breakfast bar top right?

Now let's look at the other option. Home Depot, has 96" x 25" Birch butcher block counter tops for $299.00. I would need 2 of them, and can do the install myself for a grand total of $599.98 + tax.

Now the question would really be…

How do I finish a butcher block counter top that will cover a built in dish washer, and have a sink through it to protect it from any potential leakages?

I am not dedicated to birch by the way. I would actually prefer, much prefer Pecan as it is native, readily available inexpensively, and I can easily match that to a live edged top for the bar.

So many choices…


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

dbhost said:


> *Kitchen remodel. Moving ahead, and more of the same...*
> 
> We are contemplating a motif for our kitchen, and pondering materials…
> 
> ...


I just wrote about this in another post. I built a vanity for the guest bath and used wenge for the countertop. After much looking around, I decided on the Waterlox products. I wiped on 3 coats of their sealer/finish and topped that with three wiped-on coats of their satin urethane. It's very nice and durable, and water just beads up on it. In fact, I freaked out when the tiler was stacking tiles on it just last week, but nary a scratch.

Obviously, you'll want to practice finishing on some of the scrap you'll have left over after installation.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Kitchen remodel. Moving ahead, and more of the same...*
> 
> We are contemplating a motif for our kitchen, and pondering materials…
> 
> ...


Rich sounds like he has a good method preservation. Make sure the edges of the sink are caulked well. I am guessing that over the counter rather than under the counter mounting would be better. We have under the counter mounting of sinks in our granite counter top, and water is always sitting on the edge near the caulking. So over the counter with care used in sealing the joint between the sink and the butcher would be better…I think.

There is tons of commentary on wood vanity and counter top finishing in LJ's, but Rich's method sounds like a good solution. More coats required with wipe on, but the result should be more predictable than brushing.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Kitchen remodel. Moving ahead, and more of the same...*
> 
> We are contemplating a motif for our kitchen, and pondering materials…
> 
> ...


The sink is an over lip sink. I was wanting an under mount, but that would require a stone counter top and I just don't want to do that…

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Glacier-Bay-All-in-One-Dual-Mount-Stainless-Steel-33-in-2-Hole-Double-Bowl-Kitchen-Sink-VT3322G2/205855340

We are radically upgrading the faucet though with the Delta Touch20 Dominic model.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Delta-Dominic-Single-Handle-Pull-Down-Sprayer-Kitchen-Faucet-with-Touch2O-Technology-Soap-Dispenser-in-SpotShield-Stainless-19940T-SPSD-DST/205502818

IF I were to go with a pre fab butcher block, I would go with something like this…

http://www.homedepot.com/p/98inx25inx1-5in-Wood-Butcher-Block-Countertop-in-Unfinished-Birch-BBCT1502598/300688697

However I really want to do something more native…

I am needing to get in touch with M&G Sawmill or maybe Clarks Lumber in Houston to see what it would cost to source up Pecan, including a suitable live edge slab for that breakfast bar top…

On the Waterlox… Does it change the color at all, if so any idea by how much?


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

dbhost said:


> *Kitchen remodel. Moving ahead, and more of the same...*
> 
> We are contemplating a motif for our kitchen, and pondering materials…
> 
> ...





> On the Waterlox… Does it change the color at all, if so any idea by how much?


It was hard to tell on the wenge since it's so dark, so I tool a piece of scrap cherry and did a wipe just now with the sealer/finish and it didn't change the color, other than to deepen it like any oil would do. Here's a photo:









The urethane is very clear, not milky white like water borne poly, but also not like an amber shellac.

Like Jim said, the archives here should be full of countertop information. My finish is just one that worked for me, and I'm very happy with the result.


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

dbhost said:


> *Kitchen remodel. Moving ahead, and more of the same...*
> 
> We are contemplating a motif for our kitchen, and pondering materials…
> 
> ...


Not to beat a dead horse on this, but I should have waited to take the photo above, since the finish was still wet, and obviously the wood appeared darker due to it. Here's one from a few minutes ago.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Kitchen remodel. Moving ahead, and more of the same...*
> 
> We are contemplating a motif for our kitchen, and pondering materials…
> 
> ...


Hardware all looks good. I had good luck with Delta over the years. Hope you find some good wood for a block. But be sure and take a good look at the HD one before spending a bunch of money and time on something else. There should be good information about butcher block construction here in LJ's as well.

Assembling my table slowly, just making sure everything is positioned correctly.

Have a good day…


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Kitchen remodel. Moving ahead, and more of the same...*
> 
> We are contemplating a motif for our kitchen, and pondering materials…
> 
> ...


Agreed. My main concern / issue is going to be, my wife wants that live edge top for the breakfast bar, and I have to figure out how to make that work, and match or at least come close as possible to any counter tops I go with. I know a slab and butcher block are going to be somewhat different, but I want to at least be close enough color wise that my lovely bride won't drive me nuts about the differences…


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Kitchen remodel. Moving ahead, and more of the same...*
> 
> We are contemplating a motif for our kitchen, and pondering materials…
> 
> ...


My wife has the ability to immediately identify the odd item or blemish on either the printed page, a wood floor, or most anything else. Color differences also bother her. In the condo we just bought, the contractor who repaired a bunch of things and painted the whole house said he should hire her to find all the defects and issues before making a bid. It is such a problem for my wife, that she calls it a handicap. When you immediately identify every defect in your surroundings, nothing ever feels right, because nothing is perfect.

So I understand your concern… (-:


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Kitchen remodel. Moving ahead, and more of the same...*
> 
> We are contemplating a motif for our kitchen, and pondering materials…
> 
> ...


Due to that issue, if it were up to me, I would go 100% Butcher Block and call it good… However we have the conflicting requirements of she wants the live edge, but doesn't want variation between that slab and the butcher block… I don't want to be 1K into the project and have her change her mind…

I bet I am far from alone on this, but my wife's indecision on what looks good where is why I am I am so slow getting any projects done…

The kitchen has needed paint for the last 4 years, I have bought no less than 8 gallons of paint to start painting it, I get about 2 strokes in when she says, nope, that doesn't look right…

I finally talked her into trying out the color sample paints and going with that until she can make up her mind…


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