# Arts and Crafts Nightstand



## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*Side panels and Arched Lower Rail*

Here is a sketch of the nightstand I am working on. It features one 6" over two 8" drawers. 








-
-
-
-
-
Side panel components have been sanded, and the solid panels pre-stained. Now a final test fitting before gluing them up. The lumber is QSRO.








-
-
-
-
-
A shallow groove in the legs will receive corbels. 








-
-
-
-
-
Side panels glued up. 








-
-
-
-
-
Front lower rails have been shaped at the router table, and finish sanded. 









Next up is the back panel and web frames.


----------



## BrandonW (Apr 27, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Side panels and Arched Lower Rail*
> 
> Here is a sketch of the nightstand I am working on. It features one 6" over two 8" drawers.
> 
> ...


Nice, Willie! Did you mill the side panels yourself, or did you purchase them like that?


----------



## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Side panels and Arched Lower Rail*
> 
> Here is a sketch of the nightstand I am working on. It features one 6" over two 8" drawers.
> 
> ...


I milled them up. My QSRO stock is all 1×6 S4S, so I just glued three pieces together. 
Actually I glue two pieces together, then run that plank through the planer. Then I glue the third board on. 
The panels finished at 1/2" thick.


----------



## HillbillyShooter (Feb 15, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Side panels and Arched Lower Rail*
> 
> Here is a sketch of the nightstand I am working on. It features one 6" over two 8" drawers.
> 
> ...


Very nice. Look forward to trying to follow this project (hopefully life won't happen and get in the way).


----------



## Flocktothewall (Jan 16, 2011)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Side panels and Arched Lower Rail*
> 
> Here is a sketch of the nightstand I am working on. It features one 6" over two 8" drawers.
> 
> ...


Man the rays on that Red Oak are wild! They stand out with nothing added to them, this is going to be a great project to watch!


----------



## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Side panels and Arched Lower Rail*
> 
> Here is a sketch of the nightstand I am working on. It features one 6" over two 8" drawers.
> 
> ...


I thought that looked like your work! I was just trying to put the name to the style when I saw it was yours - looks like it is going to be a nice looking stand!


----------



## MLWilson (Jun 28, 2015)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Side panels and Arched Lower Rail*
> 
> Here is a sketch of the nightstand I am working on. It features one 6" over two 8" drawers.
> 
> ...


Did you use sanding sealer on this?


----------



## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Side panels and Arched Lower Rail*
> 
> Here is a sketch of the nightstand I am working on. It features one 6" over two 8" drawers.
> 
> ...


Hi Mark,
No I did not use a sanding sealer. I finish with pre-cat lacquer, so it acts as its own sealer.


----------



## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Side panels and Arched Lower Rail*
> 
> Here is a sketch of the nightstand I am working on. It features one 6" over two 8" drawers.
> 
> ...


Very nice work. Can't wait to see it finished.


----------



## _DC3_ (Dec 11, 2013)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Side panels and Arched Lower Rail*
> 
> Here is a sketch of the nightstand I am working on. It features one 6" over two 8" drawers.
> 
> ...


I think I am going to follow this as an example of what to do right. Thanks!


----------



## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*Web Frames and Back Panel*

Here is the design for the nightstand….








-
-
-
-
-
I set about notching stock for the web frames. I use a dado blade, however a bandsaw would work too. 








-
-
-
-
-
The web frames are joined with biscuits, and checked with a straightedge. 








-
-
-
-
-
Web frames and more web frames…








-








-
-
-
-
-
One or two of the joints needed a few passes with a block plane. 








-
-
-
-
-
I glued the lower front rail in place, connecting the two side panels. It's amazing how much strength a through M&T joint has. 








-
-
-
-
-








-
-
-
-
-
Milling shallow dados in the back panel. The dados will receive the web frames. 








-
-
-
-
-
Leaving the web frame assemblies slightly oversized allows me to square them after the glueup. Be aware that any trimming you do can affect the fit of the corner notches. 








-
-
-
-
-
Test fitting web frames. I sized them for a 3/16" setback to match the lower rail. 








-
-
-
-
-
Remember to leave the web frames long enough to fill the dados in the back panel. 








-
-
-
-
-
The front through tenons are real, while the rear tenons are faux. I have two reasons for using faux tenons there: 1. I want the strength of a plywood back panel without having to allow for wood movement, and 2. The way my dressers and nightstands are assembled require space to swing the web frames in place (a solid rear stretcher would be it the way). 








-
-
-
-
-
Pegged mortise and tenon joints in front. 








-
-
-
-
-
Here is a link to my dresser blog, which features very similar construction techniques.
http://lumberjocks.com/pintodeluxe/blog/33381


----------



## BTimmons (Aug 6, 2011)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Web Frames and Back Panel*
> 
> Here is the design for the nightstand….
> 
> ...


Looking great so far!


----------



## HillbillyShooter (Feb 15, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Web Frames and Back Panel*
> 
> Here is the design for the nightstand….
> 
> ...


Looking good!


----------



## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*Dovetails*

This is the project at hand…








-
-
-
-
-
Empty carcase ready to accept web frames.








-
-
-
-
-
Installing lower web frame with biscuits in front, and dado in the rear. 








-
-
-
-
-
Web frames are glued into the dados. 








-
-
-
-
-
Notched corners fit neatly around legs. 








-
-
-
-
-
Checking that web frames are all in the same plane. 









-
-
-
-
-
Through mortise and tenon.








-
-
-
-
-
1/4" straight bit.








-
-
-
-
-
With a straight bit chucked in router #1, I hog out most of the waste for the dovetails. This step is optional, but I find the dovetails cut smoother and easier this way. 








-
-
-
-
-
After milling with 1/4" straight bit.








-
-
-
-
-
A 14 degree dovetail bit is chucked into router #2.








-
-
-
-
-
After milling with dovetail bit.








-
-
-
-
-
I shoot for a snug friction fit that can be pressed together by hand. No mallet required. 








-
-
-
-
-
Thank you routers!








-
-
-
-
-
Ripping some aromatic cedar ply for drawer bottoms. 








-
-
-
-
-
Drawer parts milled, and grooved for drawer bottoms. 








-
-
-
-
-
Assembling drawers for final sanding. 








-
-
-
-
-
Cedar drawer bottoms.









Next up should be glueups for the drawer fronts and cabinet tops. 
Cheers!


----------



## AandCstyle (Mar 21, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Dovetails*
> 
> This is the project at hand…
> 
> ...


Willie, the project looks great so far. I can hardly wait to see the finished product. I also appreciate the tips along the way. Thank you!


----------



## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Dovetails*
> 
> This is the project at hand…
> 
> ...


Nice work man. Everything looks very precise.


----------



## phillsam (Jan 21, 2013)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Dovetails*
> 
> This is the project at hand…
> 
> ...


I second what Red said above. Very precise! That is coming along beautifully!


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Dovetails*
> 
> This is the project at hand…
> 
> ...


Nice work and good photo lay out.


----------



## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*Tops, Drawer Fronts, and Corbels*

This is the nightstand project…








-
-
-
-
-
Panel glueup for the tops. I do my glueups in two stages. First I glue two pairs of boards together to make planks. Then I send them through the planer while they are still narrow enough to fit. Finally I glue these two planks together to make a panel. I describe flat panel construction in detail in my dresser blog… http://lumberjocks.com/pintodeluxe/blog/33797








-
-
-
-
-
A pair of rough glueups complete. 








-
-
-
-
-
I made a template for the corbels, with the intention of pattern routing them. However the parts were pretty small (only 2.75"x7") so I sanded them to shape with an oscillating belt sander. Then it was back to the bandsaw to notch the corbels around the groove in the legs. Notice the stop block for repeated cuts. 








-
-
-
-
-
Here you can see why the notches are helpful to fit the corbels.








-
-
-
-
-
Corbels fit snugly in the grooves. 








-
-
-
-
-
Corbel dry fitting. I always wait until the top is fitted before installing the corbels. This will ensure a tight fit, with no unsightly gaps. 








-
-
-
-
-
Now I make some support blocks for the drawer slides. I am mindful to attach to the legs only - not the panels - to avoid restricting seasonal movement. This is one drawback I suppose, with this type of cabinet. On cabinets where the panel is flush with the inside edges of the legs, no support block is required. I wanted a panel setback of 1/4" to match the dressers, so I opted for this approach. 








-
-
-
-
-
Test fitting Centerline slides.








-
-
-
-
-
Trimming panels to length. Make sure to rip panels to width before squaring the ends, otherwise one or more cuts may not be square. 








-
-
-
-
-
Test fitting drawers, sans drawer fronts.








-
-
-
-
-
Test fitting drawer fronts. 








-
-
-
-
-










-
-
-
-
-










-
-
-
-
-










Next up is sanding the tops and drawer fronts, applying a finish, and giving the drawers a good shellac-ing. 
Finish for the nightstands will be oil based stain and sprayed lacquer. 
Cheers!


----------



## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Tops, Drawer Fronts, and Corbels*
> 
> This is the nightstand project…
> 
> ...


Nice job brother. I always pick up a little somethin' from your blogs.


----------



## HillbillyShooter (Feb 15, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Tops, Drawer Fronts, and Corbels*
> 
> This is the nightstand project…
> 
> ...


Nice job-enjoying your progress blogs. One question: do you use any type of spacers on the bottom and sides when you fit and fasten your drawer fronts? I use strips of Matt board, but curious as to what your approach is.


----------



## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Tops, Drawer Fronts, and Corbels*
> 
> This is the nightstand project…
> 
> ...


I just use thin strips of wood, cut to the thickness of my desired gap. Typically I shoot for a 3/32" gap. It seems to be the magic number. If you set a tight 1/16", then any movement or sagging is very noticeable. On the other hand 1/8" seems like too big a gap to my eye. 









Thanks


----------



## AandCstyle (Mar 21, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Tops, Drawer Fronts, and Corbels*
> 
> This is the nightstand project…
> 
> ...


Looking good!


----------



## Handtooler (Jul 24, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Tops, Drawer Fronts, and Corbels*
> 
> This is the nightstand project…
> 
> ...


I've been saving the fake no name American Express credit cards to use as spacers. What say ye as to this for spacers????


----------



## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Tops, Drawer Fronts, and Corbels*
> 
> This is the nightstand project…
> 
> ...


That would be a good use for credit cards!


----------



## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*Finishing, Cam Lock, and Drawer Installation*

This is the project I am finishing up. The backsplash was nixed due to a Lumberjocks poll here…
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/50516 The tribe has spoken. 








-
-
-
-
-
So it will actually look like this…








-
-
-
-
-
When spraying shellac on the drawers, I masked the cedar drawer bottoms to maintain the nice aroma.








-
-
-
-
-
Nightstand stained and lacquered. 








-
-
-
-
-
After the lacquer cures for at least 24 hours, I wax the cabinet with Howard's walnut wax. 








-
-
-
-
-
I use a scrap of drawer front stock to align the drawer slides. I cut a notch in the corner of the jig to allow the slide to extend. Simply align the jig flush with the cabinet, and install the slide. 








-
-
-
-
-
Centerline full extension slides installed. The nice thing about web frames is you just set the slide down and install it. No fussing with the height needed. 








-
-
-
-
-
With the drawer boxes installed, I use shims to maintain a uniform reveal as I attach the drawer front. 








-
-
-
-
-
Drawer fronts installed.








-
-
-
-
-
Next I turn my attention to this cam lock. My drawers are nearly 1-1/2" thick, so I used a long cam lock. 








-
-
-
-
-
I installed the lock in a scrap of drawer stock to make a mock-up. The locks come with a straight and a bent tab, so you have some different mounting options. 








-
-
-
-
-
I used the mock-up to locate a biscuit slot on the underside of the web frame. I set my biscuit joiner to "M" for maximum depth of cut. On my model joiner, that happens to be about 5/8" deep. 








-
-
-
-
-
Biscuit slot will receive the cam lock tab. If you don't have a biscuit joiner, just install a metal bracket instead. I prefer the slot method, because it avoids the bracket - which could hang up on drawer contents. 








-
-
-
-
-
Cam lock installed.








-
-
-
-
-
I had to special order the cam locks, because I needed a black finish. I found them on Amazon from a company called PTP Supply. The product description is Battalion 1XTE8 Disc Tumbler Cam Lock, Keyed Alike, Blk. 









Next up will be installing the drawer pulls, and mounting the top. 
Cheers!


----------



## Handtooler (Jul 24, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Finishing, Cam Lock, and Drawer Installation*
> 
> This is the project I am finishing up. The backsplash was nixed due to a Lumberjocks poll here…
> http://lumberjocks.com/topics/50516 The tribe has spoken.
> ...


That is an ABSOLUTELY SUPERB build blog! You've done yourself proud both in the build and the instructions. Many thanks.


----------



## AandCstyle (Mar 21, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Finishing, Cam Lock, and Drawer Installation*
> 
> This is the project I am finishing up. The backsplash was nixed due to a Lumberjocks poll here…
> http://lumberjocks.com/topics/50516 The tribe has spoken.
> ...


Aside from the missing backsplash  , this is looking great! As I mentioned previously, I learn from your use of jigs, techniques, etc. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Finishing, Cam Lock, and Drawer Installation*
> 
> This is the project I am finishing up. The backsplash was nixed due to a Lumberjocks poll here…
> http://lumberjocks.com/topics/50516 The tribe has spoken.
> ...


Another super build!


----------



## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Finishing, Cam Lock, and Drawer Installation*
> 
> This is the project I am finishing up. The backsplash was nixed due to a Lumberjocks poll here…
> http://lumberjocks.com/topics/50516 The tribe has spoken.
> ...


Art,
No worries, your vote counted. I have redesigned the headboard to incorporate another wedge & strap style backsplash. 
Thanks for the input and kind comments.


----------



## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*Drawer Pulls, and Installing the Top*

Time to install the drawer pulls. My hardware requires two holes drilled 3" on center.








-
-
-
-
-
I use this little jig to make sure all the holes are aligned correctly. It is a full-sized pattern, and works for the 6" and 8" drawers. I use Scott Collins "No Math" method to layout the pull location, which is discussed further in my dresser blog here… http://lumberjocks.com/pintodeluxe/blog/34346








-
-
-
-
-
I register the left edge of the drawer against the stop on the jig, and clamp it in place.








-
-
-
-
-
Holes drilled with no drama. 








-
-
-
-
-
Once the 1/4" clearance holes are drilled, I drill through-holes with a 3/16" bit. 








-
-
-
-
-
Then I installed the top with some figure 8 fasteners. 








-
-
-
-
-
The quartersawn red oak has some nice figure. 








-
-
-
-
-
I couldn't resist making a couple backsplashes, just to see how they look. If these were side tables, I would probably install the backsplashes because I really like the look. 
Since they will have alarm clocks with cords on top, I will probably forgo them. 









The completed project page is here… http://lumberjocks.com/projects/85871


----------



## sb194 (Feb 19, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Drawer Pulls, and Installing the Top*
> 
> Time to install the drawer pulls. My hardware requires two holes drilled 3" on center.
> 
> ...


They turned out great.

I'm glad you went without the backsplashes.

Keep up the good work.

Sean


----------



## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Drawer Pulls, and Installing the Top*
> 
> Time to install the drawer pulls. My hardware requires two holes drilled 3" on center.
> 
> ...


Thanks Sean, It was a fun project.


----------



## Handtooler (Jul 24, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Drawer Pulls, and Installing the Top*
> 
> Time to install the drawer pulls. My hardware requires two holes drilled 3" on center.
> 
> ...


Those are absolutely beautiful night stands. You certainly are a great craftsman and use such wonderful wood. The drawer pull jig and link for locations is wonderful information for us wanna bees. *THANKS!*


----------



## AandCstyle (Mar 21, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Drawer Pulls, and Installing the Top*
> 
> Time to install the drawer pulls. My hardware requires two holes drilled 3" on center.
> 
> ...


Willie, another great looking project. Well done!


----------



## DHS (Jul 28, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Drawer Pulls, and Installing the Top*
> 
> Time to install the drawer pulls. My hardware requires two holes drilled 3" on center.
> 
> ...


I really enjoyed reading your construction blog and picked up several tips for my next project. Thanks for including all those little details. Your night stands turned out great!


----------



## Dusty33 (Jun 22, 2013)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Drawer Pulls, and Installing the Top*
> 
> Time to install the drawer pulls. My hardware requires two holes drilled 3" on center.
> 
> ...


Superb! Just outstanding craftsmanship. Could you share your 6 drawer mission dresser and night stand plans with me please. I am attempting my "first go" for making a mission bedroom set. Your help would be very much appreciated.


----------



## FatherHooligan (Mar 27, 2008)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Drawer Pulls, and Installing the Top*
> 
> Time to install the drawer pulls. My hardware requires two holes drilled 3" on center.
> 
> ...


Thanks for posting this.


----------

