# Harvesting walnut lumber



## BlakeW (Jun 16, 2011)

I hope to have access pretty soon to what is left of two old/large walnut trees in eastern North Carolina. The trees have shed branches and, as trees go, look pretty ugly. They are still alive but most of the older branches are down. I plan to collect the shed branches and see if there is any salvageable wood but am unsure about how to handle the main trunks which are approx three feet in diameter. I will probably be air drying the lumber. When should it be cut? My initial thought is for two inch boards. Should I try for slabs or what? This is potentially a lot of wood and I don't want to mess it up.

Thanks for the help.


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## therookie (Aug 29, 2010)

IMPO I think you should slab the wood seal the ends and dry it.


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## WDHLT15 (Aug 15, 2011)

I would cut a mix of thicknesses. Cut some 16/4 (4" thick for mantles), some 12/4 (table legs), some 8/4 table top stock), some 6/4 (table top stock), and 4/4, especially if you are planning to sell any as thick walnut is hard to find, at least around here.

I have made the mistake of cutting logs into a pile of say 4/4 lumber, and the first thing that you know, you need some that is 6/4 or 8/4…........


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## superstretch (Jan 10, 2011)

+1 to what WDHLT15 said


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## fussy (Jan 18, 2010)

Agree with wdhlt15 said vewrbatim. One point, wait until late fall when the sap is down, seal the ends and sticker. put the biggest stuff on top to keep the smaller stuff in line. Don't forget, I get 1/3 delivered for my contribution. Don't forget.

Steve


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## WDHLT15 (Aug 15, 2011)

Also, put the best quality stock on the bottom of the stack as the lower grade stock above will provide weight to keep the better stuff flat.


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## BarbaraGill (Feb 12, 2011)

The advice to have a mix of thicknesses sawn is good. Re- sawing thick slabs can be problematic and wasteful. Always include 8/4 stock for legs. Have an idea of what you will want to build with this lumber so you can make an educated plan of action.
Unless you will be air drying when the moisture content can get down to 6-8% you might consider finding a dehumidification kiln to bring the moisture content down.
Be very attentive to sticking the lumber correctly.


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## Nomad62 (Apr 20, 2010)

On trees of that size I like to slice slabs off of two opposing sides, down to about 4" from the pith on each side; then I'll tip the log up and slice off 1-2" lumber, being 8" wide, for legs, stringers, etc. Go to 3" from the pith if you would prefer 6" wide lumber. I throw the piece with the pith away. Makes for nice opportunities for tables of the same tree or selling people what they want; it also makes nice looking lumber, with nice centers and even looks.


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

You lucky dog. Resaw in various thicknesses, coat the ends, sticker, and dry slowly unless you have a drying kiln avaliable. Some would say to steam the wood to even out the color differences between sap and heart wood.
Most mills will just flat saw the logs, so you'll have come pith (the very center of the logs). THat isn't a bad thing, but most would not want that "center" cut in the finished wood.
Bill


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## BarbaraGill (Feb 12, 2011)

I would be one to say not to steam Walnut. It changes the wonderful color. The reason Walnut is usually flat sawn is that is the best way to show off the figure. If you want to have the wood dried, look for a dehumidification kiln.


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## WDHLT15 (Aug 15, 2011)

I'm with Barbara. It is beautiful air dried.


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## Howie (May 25, 2010)

I might be wrong but are you sure you want boards out of the branches? I've always heard they tend to twist due to being in tension. Anyone care to comment?


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## BarbaraGill (Feb 12, 2011)

While it is true that some branches have tension wood it has been my experience that some Walnut branches do not. Or at least don't have enough to throw them away. If they are large and if the wood appears to be highly figured, I would take the chance.


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## tom427cid (Aug 21, 2011)

If you have inside space to sticker the walnut-Let me add to all the good advice so far,make sure that the first course of bunks(squares on the ground) are straight,square,and level. Any unevenness will wind up in the dried lumber. Anyway, back to drying,if you can get a temperature differential between the inside and outside of at least 15degrees you can dry the wood a bit quicker.Also the old rule is 1 year to the inch for natural air drying(outside). It would also be wise to invest in a moisture meter.
Hope this helps.
tom


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## Jacoblucas (Sep 28, 2011)

What a nice find, and a great opportunity to get a good amount of Walnut! If you have a space available, given that your driven to dry the lumber yourself, dehumidification kilns are a joke to make. Theres plans for them all over, they basically consist of a dehumidifier from somewhere like lowes, and a fan to even blow across the lumber. Just some food for thought.
-Jacob


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