# Danish oil and water based poly?



## cabbie (Dec 29, 2012)

Guys-
I'm old school when it comes to finishing, I guess, but here in Calif. they're making it really difficult!
Poly/oil finishes are being replaced with water based stuff. I know I'm behind the curve on this one, but I've got a problem on a current project I hope you can help me with.
I've done some preliminary finishing on a new project with a 50/50 mix of mineral spirits and Watco Danish oil-2 coats so far, and it's looking great. For the final wear coats I'd like to use a wipe-on poly/oil finish but can't buy any.
Can I use a water based finish (like Minwax Wipe-On Poly, water based) for the final 3 or 4 coats?
Any precautions that I should be aware of?
Any help would be enormously appreciated, as I REALLY don't want to screw up all the work so far with a finish that I'm unfamilar with.
THANX!!


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## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

Jim,

I think I can help , I happen to be headed out the door , Will chime in the morning, Sorry for the delay. But there is a wealth of knowledge on this site ..so hang tight .. Besides the stuff you have put on really needs to dry ALOT , so be patient .


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## vsefcik (Mar 5, 2013)

Oil-based Minwax Wipe On Poly isn't banned in California. I live near Santa Barbara and bought a quart just last week (from Orchard Supply Hardware, a local hardware store). It could be that stores near you just don't carry it. You could order it online (e.g. Rockler will ship it to you). See http://www.rockler.com/minwaxreg-wipe-on-poly .


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## ClintSearl (Dec 8, 2011)

No problema. Let the Watco cure for a week, rub it down with maroon scotchbrite, and top with waterborne poly. I prefer Varathane waterborne floor finish or Bona Mega.


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## TheBoxWhisperer (Sep 24, 2012)

I use water over danish oil all the time. I give it 3-7 days to cure. then put it on. Id love to hear what Mr. Neil has to say….


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

Watco danish oil is just a wiping varnish instead of a danish oil, a very thin one at that (70%+ solvents, according to the MSDS). As I recall it's a vary good varnish (alkyd resin) so there should be no problems applying a water borne over the top of it, once it's dry to the touch. In your case, you've thinned it some more so be sure all the solvents have evaporated.


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## cabbie (Dec 29, 2012)

To all of those that have volunteered an answer to my question re: water-based poly over Danish oil--THANKS. I'm going to let the piece cure at room temp for at least a week, scuff it up a bit, than coat with a wipe-on water based poly from Minwax. I found out that the ban on oil based poly applies only to LA county so fart. Won't be implemented in the rest of the state for a while--lucky us! So I can't buy it here, but I can purchase it on line (although I'm told that that's being discouraged by the AQMD), or I can drive to the next county.
If the water-based product works as well as indicated it'll solve all of this.
Thanks again.


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## LeChuck (Jan 6, 2010)

Why thin out the Watco? It's already very thin…


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## cabbie (Dec 29, 2012)

LeChuck-
I just wanted to make sure that it penetrated as deeply as possible. If that was going to be the only finish I used I'd switch to full-strength for the final 3 or 4 coats. But I wanted to try the water-based systems for this project, so that's the path I'm taking. I'm looking for a relatively high gloss, durable finish that's easy to apply, and the Minwax water-based wipe-on poly sounds like it'll work.
Thanks,
Jim


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## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

Uh Oh.. Man I am so sorry I forgot this, drop me a Pm and we can email , Would rather have a phone chat and explain. Clint however pretty much nailed it .


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## DMC1903 (Jan 11, 2012)

I use Watco oils with General Finish's Arm-A-Seal as a top coat , never had an issue. 
The results are great


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## cabbie (Dec 29, 2012)

DMC1903-
Thanks for your response. I think you haven't had a problem because the Arm-A-Seal is an oil-based polyurethane, and as such is totally compatible with danish oil. I'm concerned about having to use a water-based product over danish oil on my project.
Thanks again.
Jim


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## OSU55 (Dec 14, 2012)

I use waterborne quite a bit. Wipe the piece down with 50/50 water/denatured alcohol up to 100% DNA after scuffing. This will make sure to remove contaminates and help adhesion. I prefer Target Coatings waterborne products. Waterbornes are more difficult for the close to the grain wipe on look. They just dry too fast. I've had some success using the retarders made for the specific finishes.

If I want a close to the grain wipe on finish I use standard poly thinned about 50/50 with naptha or mineral spirits. Any solvent stain can be mixed in if color is desired. A lot cheaper than all of these Danish or tung or whatever oils (I'm not a fan of all of the marketing hyperbole). I've used many of them and get equal results with thinned poly.


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## cabbie (Dec 29, 2012)

OUS55-
Thanks. I managed to find some oil based poly locally at a hardware store that was selling out it's stock before switching over to water based stuff, so I've got a quart-sized supply that'll last me for a couple of months. Then I'll try to find some more if I can, or just bite the ol' bullet and try the water based stuff. Thanks for the tip re: DNA wipe-down prior to coating.
Where do you get your Target Coatings products?
Thanks,
Jim


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## OSU55 (Dec 14, 2012)

here http://www.targetcoatings.com/ . A smaller company. The owner Jeff Weiss frequents the forum pages and is very helpful.


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## cabbie (Dec 29, 2012)

OSU55-
WOW! Great site with lots of really good info.
Thanks!
Jim


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