# Spur center keeps getting stuck in the headstock



## bndawgs (Oct 21, 2016)

Is there a trick to avoiding my spur center from getting stuck in the headstock? Should I coat it with anti-seize before putting it in? It'll get stuck in there and then I have to use channel locks to twist it free. I've wrapped the spur center with a rag, but it's still getting a little beat up from the jaws of the wrench.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

What lathe you got? The spur center should get 'stuck' in the headstock (as otherwise it wouldn't turn the workpiece), and typically you knock it out with a knockout bar from the outboard side of the spindle. Some lathes have a collar that unscrews to push the center out… but all have a way to remove them without buggering them up.

Cheers,
Brad


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## bndawgs (Oct 21, 2016)

It's a Jet JWL-1236.

Just read through the manual again. I see where there's a drift rod and I have to remove the handle to use it.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Read page 10 of your manual regarding how to remove the spur center… Your lathe came with a knockout bar (they call it a drift rod) - Item "D" in the picture below:










Cheers,
Brad


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## bndawgs (Oct 21, 2016)

Man, don't I feel like a DA now.

now to figure out a sharpening system for my tools so i can do some more turning. lol


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

As long as we're on the subject…..My PSI mandrel saver is the only attachment that gets stuck in my tailstock. All of the others come loose when I back the tailstock out as they are supposed to except the mandrel saver. I have to tap it out with a long flat heat screw driver placed behind the live center as the tailstock isn't hollow, which will eventually screw that live center up. I even tried a friends brand new mandrel saver and had the same result. Any ideas on how to correct this?

Sorry to hijack the thread. Thanks in advance.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

> As long as we re on the subject…..My PSI mandrel saver is the only attachment that gets stuck in my tailstock. All of the others come loose when I back the tailstock out as they are supposed to except the mandrel saver. I have to tap it out with a long flat heat screw driver placed behind the live center as the tailstock isn t hollow, which will eventually screw that live center up. I even tried a friends brand new mandrel saver and had the same result. Any ideas on how to correct this?
> 
> Sorry to hijack the thread. Thanks in advance.
> 
> - Andybb


If it won't self-eject, then the taper is too short… I have a couple like that as well. Easiest way to get it out for me is to just eject the whole tailstock spindle and tap it out from the other end. Another option would be to attach something to the end of the taper so it's long enough to self eject.

Cheers,
Brad


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

> Easiest way to get it out for me is to just eject the whole tailstock spindle and tap it out from the other end.
> 
> Cheers,
> Brad
> ...


You never cease to amaze me Brad! Makes total sense. Thanks. (Or, as you said I guess I could weld a little piece to the end of the taper.)


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## bndawgs (Oct 21, 2016)

This thread was also a reminder for me to buy a face shield.


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## Woodmaster1 (Apr 26, 2011)

Great suggestions, adding a weld to the end worked for me when taught woodworking.


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## stevepeterson (Dec 17, 2009)

> Easiest way to get it out for me is to just eject the whole tailstock spindle and tap it out from the other end.
> 
> Cheers,
> Brad
> ...


I have one live center that is too short for the self-eject feature. Fortunately, it is tapped for a drawbar. This allows me to screw in a bolt to make it long enough to eject properly.


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

Just make sure that ya don't have any burrs on the taper.


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## Planeman40 (Nov 3, 2010)

Many Morse taper mandrels have a threaded hole on the back of the mandrel. This is used to hold the mandrel in the headstock so it won't come out and won't slip. This is especially important when working with large turnings. You can make a "drawbar" from a piece of threaded rod that matches the threaded hole, a nut and a large washer. Use this drawbar to tighten the tapered mandrel in the lathe. To knock out the mandrel, just loosen the drawbar nut and use a wood mallet or a soft face hammer to tap the drawbar to force the mandrel loose from the lathe headstock.


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