# How to cut a groove or dado into the edge of 2x for floating shelf bracket?



## RickDel (Dec 17, 2018)

Hello, I want to install some floating shelf brackets using premade welded brackets. The place I'm buying from, Sheppard Brackets, sells steal templates for a reasonable price but I'm wondering if I can make a jig or maybe there's another method to use. Can you guys offer any suggestions?

I'm a beginner skill level.

Here's a pic of what Sheppard Brackets sells and a pic of what I'm trying to do.


















Thanks - Rick


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## SMP (Aug 29, 2018)

For a beginner, i'd suggest just drilling the holes in back of a 2×4, stick that on the bracket, then "wrap" the whole thing with a nicer 1/4" wood of whatever species you like. This allows the skin to overhang the bracket on back.


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

If you have-or are willing to buy-a flush template router bit (like the one pictured on their site), then you can trace the bracket onto a piece of MDF and cut out your own template. If you wish to use bushings, then you'll have to make the template oversized around the perimeter by the difference between the bit diameter and bushing diameter divided by two. A typical setup is a 5/8" bushing with a 1/2" bit, so the template would be 1/16" larger all around, or 1/8" larger edge-to-edge.


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## BlueRidgeDog (Jan 2, 2019)

For simplicity, I would just trace the mount on the stock, affix a fence to the router that places the bit just inside the line and then route each side. Then remove the fence and clean out the inside. Get to the line on the ends with a chisel. You don't have to be accurate is it is not going to be seen.

Alternatively, and very easy, use a table saw to cut a dado on the back of the board the width and depth you need, blowing out the ends, then cut a matching patch piece for the ends to cover the blowout…probably won't be noticeable except on close examination.

Finally, leave and inch or saw wider than the cut out on each side and route as in number one above, then just hand route the edge, since you just need big enough versus exact, so blow past your line by a bit and no problem.


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## RickDel (Dec 17, 2018)

Thanks guys!! I have flush bits, bushings, router table, table saw with dado blades. I have a good selection of tools for a beginner, but my problem is lack of knowledge and skill. I'm still processing some of this advice you guys have offered.

SMP, Sorry, I don't understand the wrapping part. What I'm thinking is the router bit bearing would travel along the bracket on the 1/4" stock of choice but I"m not understanding how that will help with routing the inside area.

Rich, Just to be clear, you're suggesting trace the bracket and cut that out of a piece of thin mdf, right? How do I get an accurate template cut? Jigsaw? (I know accuracy isn't important, but I'd still like to know how to make it perfect).

BlueRidgeDog, "I would just trace the mount on the stock, affix a fence to the router that places the bit just inside the line and then route each side. Then remove the fence and clean out the inside." 
Would you rather do this with with a handheld router and fence or if you had the option would you use a router table and adjust the fence? I'm only going to have an 1/8" of material left on each side so I'm a little concerned of making a mistake.

Again, thanks guys!! Your help is VERY appreciated!


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## LeeRoyMan (Feb 23, 2019)

Make the frame on the top of the jig big enough to account for your router base. Then just run the router around the inside of the frame.


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## RickDel (Dec 17, 2018)

> Make the frame on the top of the jig big enough to account for your router base. Then just run the router around the inside of the frame.
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> ...


I like that jig. I'd really like to make that an adjustable width for different size shelves. Thanks!


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## BlueRidgeDog (Jan 2, 2019)

Well, if you have a router table, make and entry and exit mark so you don't blow through the end and have at it. That would be my approach. You can bump the fence back bit by bit until it fits.


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## RickDel (Dec 17, 2018)

Thanks for the help…. I may try a few of the different options you guys have suggested and see what works best.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Most of the above will work fine,but this is a technique that comes in handy for making grooves on edges, just make sure you use some scrap to practice on first.I noticed this video has a through cut on the backside (typical for drawers) but in your case, you just have to tilt it the opposite way to also do a stop groove instead of cutting all the way through. Good luck on your project no matter what approach you take.

https://www.google.com/search?q=stop+groove+on+a+router+table&oq=stop+groove+on+a+router+table&aqs=chrome..69i57j0.18508j1j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=_zT8KXsaRNPu_0PEPt86G6As25

https://www.artisticwoodstudio.com/videos


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## RickDel (Dec 17, 2018)

> Most of the above will work fine,but this is a technique that comes in handy for making grooves on edges, just make sure you use some scrap to practice on first.I noticed this video has a through cut on the backside (typical for drawers) but in your case, you just have to tilt it the opposite way to also do a stop groove instead of cutting all the way through. Good luck on your project no matter what approach you take.
> 
> https://www.google.com/search?q=stop+groove+on+a+router+table&oq=stop+groove+on+a+router+table&aqs=chrome..69i57j0.18508j1j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=_zT8KXsaRNPu_0PEPt86G6As25
> 
> ...


That great. I'm definitely trying that too. Thanks!


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