# Ideas for shop-made drawer pulls



## Hesed (May 22, 2008)

I'm getting ready to start building an outfeed table for my table saw, with some drawers underneath, I just ordered the slides and was looking for some drawer pulls when it occurred to me that I could probably build some myself. I only have a table saw and handheld router (no router table), so I'm somewhat limited in terms of design. I was thinking of just ripping some 5/4 stock with a beveled edge, about an inch wide, and then crosscutting 4 inch pieces. Pretty simple, but maybe not ideal. I thought I'd post the idea here and see if anyone can suggest something better given my fairly limited tool selection.


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## Grumpy (Nov 9, 2007)

Have you thought about using the end of your tablesaw as a router station. you can than use your T/S fence on the router table.


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## woodworkersguide (Mar 7, 2008)

Hesed, I did something similar on one of my workbenches. However, before crosscutting I also routed a groove (using a small cove bit) in both sides to give an indent to grip on to. I also crosscutted on the 45 to minimize any catches.


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

I did something similar on my miter saw bench. I put small drawers in the wings and to create the pulls I simply routed a cove in 3/4 oak offcuts, ripped off 1" strips and crosscut them into 5" lengths.


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## motthunter (Dec 31, 2007)

Be creative. You can have fun with this and make something unique


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## Dadoo (Jun 23, 2007)

I did mine like that…but route the cove first, then rip it out on the TS. You have better control of your hand held router on wide boards.

Some of us have also used copper wire and/or copper flashing. Get some heavy stuff, weave it, braid it, hammer it. Makes for some unique rustic pulls.

Iron rod is cheap too, just harder to manipulate.


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## Hesed (May 22, 2008)

Great ideas, all. I knew you guys would come through.

Grumpy, yeah I've considered that but the router I have isn't actually even mine. I'll get my own at some point and probably go that route (da bum ching). But just getting started, I have to scrounge together anything I can.

Dadoo, assuming I route a cove before ripping, I would only have the cove on one side (the bottom), correct?

Does anyone have a thought on how to safely route a cove on both sides with a hand-held router? If I can't make that work I'm sure the one side would probably be sufficient.

Thanks again guys!


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## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

If you have an Ikea nearby go buy the 6 pack for a $1.99 handles. Even if you have to order longer Metric screws from Fastenal you will come out way ahead. As a FYI the screws that come with them are good for 1/2" and 3/4" thickness. After that you have to order screws from some where unless you can find a local place that sells metric screws. I am using M4 .7×40 MM for drawers that are 1/2" box with a 3/4" front. For 3/4" boxes and 3/4" fronts you will need 45MM length screws. While looking at the latest McFeely's catalog I came across these screws that would work in the 1/2" box 3/4" drawer front applications and would be truss head vs pan and much cheaper than Fastenal. Hope this helps. Btw you can see the pulls in my Miter Bench and Storage Project. There are 20 handles in the project that cost me $8 plus another 12$ for screws. I am still way ahead here IMHO.


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## Dadoo (Jun 23, 2007)

Yeah, what I did to keep mine simple (and cheap) was to route a cove in a 4 foot piece of pine. (The cove gives your fingers a place to pull from.) Then rip it to a 2" wide piece. Then rip another 1" wide piece. Glue those together…you'll have a handle 4' long now. When the glue is dry crosscut your handles to whatever length you desire. Then screw them to the drawer front. Can't get much cheaper than that.


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## Hesed (May 22, 2008)

Aaaaah, I see. Good thinking. Thanks!


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