# Works great, but with one recently discovered potentially dangerous flaw.



## tmasondarnell (Jul 2, 2013)

Wow you dodged a bullet on that one…glad you are safe. I use the 110 version for my HF DC unit.

That is some serious heat in that plug. Looking at the current specs on Amazon, the unit is rated for 16 amps, which should be well below the rating of the motor on the DC.

Not to be the negative guy, but do you think you could be having trouble with excessive current draw on the motor? 
If you have a motor issue, it could be drawing 18 amps on a 16 amp switch, but never flip the breaker which is at 20 amps? Also, even if the motor is not over current, if it is running at the high end of its rating all of the time-not just at start up, you could see this problem.

IS the motor on the DC running real hot to the touch? Especially when you have been running it a lng time?


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## RCCinNC (Jul 4, 2017)

> Wow you dodged a bullet on that one…glad you are safe. I use the 110 version for my HF DC unit.
> 
> That is some serious heat in that plug. Looking at the current specs on Amazon, the unit is rated for 16 amps, which should be well below the rating of the motor on the DC.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the heads up. You mean the unit should be well above the rating on the DC. Right? I think the DC is 12 amp. Regarding heat, I don't think so, but I'll check it out. The outlets are all 20 amp rated in the shop and the new outlet installed in the base unit is also twenty amp rated, so hopefully that issue is covered…at least the fire hazard.

Assuming we are talking about the same thing, besides overheating, wouldn't the motor tend to power sag if it was drawing overcurrent? I've never tripped the motors breaker/ restart button. When I built my shop, I stepped up a gauge from the code requirements for all circuits, having dealt with current draw issues in the field, so I'd be surprised if that were a problem. It would be nice to have a shop big enough for that to be a problem! Whether the motor's running at its limits, I can't tell you, but I assume that excessive heat would be the tell.

Negative guy!? Hardly…more like helpful and informative guy! ; ) Much appreciated!


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

A loose plug can heat up. Did your plug fit snugly in that? Bad connections get hot.


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## RCCinNC (Jul 4, 2017)

> A loose plug can heat up. Did your plug fit snugly in that? Bad connections get hot.
> 
> - Ocelot


Yeah it was tight. Trashed many a cheap drop cord for the very reason you suggested. The contact on the back of the outlet was tight as well. But, with that thought, it was practically fused on, so corrosion or arcing could have been an issue there. The problem was likely the connector, or the quality of the connection to the back of the outlet. The other hot side was fine. Will check for overheating this afternoon. 
Thanks for your input!


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## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

I have that same unit, about the same age too! Runs my 220v/2 HP DC.

Timely post, my units socket keeps coming loose from the housing, as if one of the tabs has sheared off. The DC plug does produce a fair side load given the weight of the cord cantilevered out, but I like your idea of replacing the socket with a "real" unit.

The Faston type connectors used on items like these are prone to losing their tension if they ever get hot, which tends to cascade into your situation. Direct soldering or screw-clamp connections are the way to go.

My drum sander has a built in socket where the drum motor plugs in and it showed the same failure as yours. (1.5HP at 120V). I did a similar replacement with a much more substantial socket


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## RCCinNC (Jul 4, 2017)

> I have that same unit, about the same age too! Runs my 220v/2 HP DC.
> 
> Timely post, my units socket keeps coming loose from the housing, as if one of the tabs has sheared off. The DC plug does produce a fair side load given the weight of the cord cantilevered out, but I like your idea of replacing the socket with a "real" unit.
> 
> ...


Sounds exactly like what happened with mine. Makes me extra glad I posted this splintergroup! Have fun installing the standard outlet. There's not a whole lot of room and even less wire to work with but it's manageable.
Good Luck!


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## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

Ok, I've been chomping at the bit to have a look-see into my Long Ranger III.

This is the slightly protruding socket, most likely caused by the stiff cord to the DC hanging out a bit










Well lo and behold!

Initial signs of heat/burning on the sockets internal Faston connections










Gonna fix this ASAP, thanks RCC! 8^)


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## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

Ocelot had the right idea, one of the contacts has slightly relaxed, which lessens its grip on the plug prong. The other side is fine, giving my cord a nice, secure, tight grip.

You can see the slight gap on the side that was beginning to overheat (right)


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## RCCinNC (Jul 4, 2017)

> Ocelot had the right idea, one of the contacts has slightly relaxed, which lessens its grip on the plug prong. The other side is fine, giving my cord a nice, secure, tight grip.
> 
> You can see the slight gap on the side that was beginning to overheat (right)
> 
> ...


Yay for team effort! You see inside the lid where they made accommodations for a proper outlet? Makes the job a bit easier. Thanks for the follow up splint. My, this certainly has been a learning experience…. ; )


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## RCCinNC (Jul 4, 2017)

Pesojoshh. Please go away.


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

I have an auto start from another brand. It fires off a HF "2 hp" unit. It died about two years ago and, as I was getting ready to toss it, curiosity got the best of me, so I took it apart. It turned out it had crappy solder joints. I re-soldered them and that solved the problem. It's been working longer than it did before the re-solder.


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## RCCinNC (Jul 4, 2017)

> I have an auto start from another brand. It fires off a HF "2 hp" unit. It died about two years ago and, as I was getting ready to toss it, curiosity got the best of me, so I took it apart. It turned out it had crappy solder joints. I re-soldered them and that solved the problem. It s been working longer than it did before the re-solder.
> 
> - Kelly


Which is why I hesitate to throw anything out….some people call it hoarding…; )

In my world, whatever it is, it can either be repaired or parted out and repurposed. It's always a feel good moment when you can get something working again…and especially better than new, or create something using spare parts you saved from something else. I'll bet you got more than just a working DC remote out of your repair Kelly. For me, there's lots of pleasure in celebrating the little victories! ; )


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## Dutchy (Jun 18, 2012)

I have read all above and I can't resist asking you when in the USA they stop using the description HP on electric equipment. The disricption up to 3 HP does not actually say anything about the power consumption.


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## RCCinNC (Jul 4, 2017)

> I have read all above and I can t resist asking you when in the USA they stop using the description HP on electric equipment. The disricption up to 3 HP does not actually say anything about the power consumption.
> 
> - Dutchy


Yeah…I know. I kept looking for an amp rating on the box but never found one. Seemed weird to me too….but then again it had an FCC certification but nothing else. Tmasondarnell from the first response says Amazon gives it a 16 amp rating. Whether or not that's stated on the current model I've no idea.


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## 75c (Jan 23, 2021)

When you change your wall plug you might want to look at the replacement plug that is hospital garage. They are tighter fitting with more grip on the prongs that are inserted into it. Also what king of breaker box do you have. I have heard that some brands actually take more current to trip them than they are rated for.


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## 75c (Jan 23, 2021)

The other thing I was going to say is the plug in on the front of your remote not a 120 volt 20 amp plug? Not a 220 volt 20 amp plug? I don't care what the label says


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## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*75c:*
You're mis-identifying the socket. Horizontal R side is 220v.

Compare NEMA 5 vs NEMA 6:









*NEMA 5-20*, 110V @ 20A - accepts NEMA 5-10, -15, and -20 plugs.


NEMA 5-10 - Two vertical tines, no ground
NEMA 5-15 - Two vertical tines, with round ground
NEMA 5-20 - One vertical tine, one horizontal tine on *Left* side of receptical









*NEMA 6-20*, 220V @ 20A - accepts both NEMA 6-15 and -20 plugs.


NEMA 6-15 - Two horizontal tines with round ground
NEMA 6-20 - One vertical tine, one horizontal tine on *Right* side of receptical

Note the right tine is rotated 90° to prevent mis-connections.

The OP's device is definitely *NEMA 6-20*:









220V @ 20A *NEMA 6-20*

*BTW:*
1 hp is about 750 watts so 3hp is nominally 2250 watts or about 10A on a 220V line. This is running load, not starting, which can momentarily be much larger.

Fast on connectors relax over time and shouldn't really be used in high current apps. Is why you don't see them in general house wiring. Hell, they burn up in motorcycle (12VDC) apps!


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## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

I'm replacing mine with a NEMA 6-20. This is basically a commercial/industrial rating. The socket is rated to 20 Amps at 220 volts nominal with "upgraded" internal contacts and reinforced housing.

The original socket had the three-wipe surface contacts, which is one of the features of the "industrial" grade.

The apparent failure was most likely the corporate bean counters that determined a cheaper socket could be used (the faceplate shows the original intent was to use a standard type outlet). The problem with the cheaper outlets is the thin plastic shell which deformed from the heat. The spec grade sockets are much beefier in that regard.

The Long Ranger has an internal breaker (push button reset style) rated at 25 Amps which should not have nuisance trips from startup current, but I don't see this failure as an over current issue since both RCC and I have 2HP dust collector motors which generally are around 13 Amps full load.

The internal relays are 30 Amp rated. They may get their 3 HP spec (typically around 19A full load for a motor) which technically is under the 20 Amp service rating.

I really don't like seeing "HP" rating specs verses the usual Amperage ratings. There is a direct conversion between HP and Amps at a given voltage (HP is really just a different unit of power, like Watts), but it is a bad assumption that a 3HP electrical rating is the same as a 3HP motor load. A motor has losses that means 3HP of power produced at the shaft requires more than 3HP of electric power input (not to mention the startup currents).


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## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Splinter:*
You amps math is off.

3hp isn't 19A at 220v, its 19A @ 110v, the 220V current is HALF - or about the 10A I stated above.

Safety specs derate the continuous load to *75%* of the full load rating. 19A on a 20A circuit is an *overload* and a 30A circuit is called for.

Get a copy of *"Ugly's Electrical References"*:


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

Madmark, even that depends on the motor. A cheap motor can draw much more than a well built one.

My 2 horse bandsaw runs at 20 amps on a 120 circuit and 10 on a 240. My 3 horse collectors hover around 15, per the clamp gauge.

I wholeheartedly agree one needs to leave room (so to speak) on the circuit, so it isn't being ran at the rated capacity of the line.

The dedicated circuit for the mentioned bandsaw is the only 240 circuit, of seven, in the shop using 12 gauge (an hour to town, had a new toy and already had the wire). Of course, I had to sacrifice another slot on the panel to pull that off. Anyway, all the other 240's are 10 gauge, because you never know what the future brings, including tired equipment.


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## 75c (Jan 23, 2021)

> *75c:*
> You re mis-identifying the socket. Horizontal R side is 220v.
> 
> Compare NEMA 5 vs NEMA 6:
> ...


Makes sense I have always used twist lock plugs so I knew a 110 volt one looked like that I didn't realize that there was a 220 plug that was basically the same but different! I was sure someone on here would know for sure!


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

Simply put, merely that "experts" came up with the idea does not mean it was the smartest one. Horizontal blade on the left means from Mars, on the right from Venus. Genius. Every non-electrician will have that figured out.



> Makes sense I have always used twist lock plugs so I knew a 110 volt one looked like that I didn t realize that there was a 220 plug that was basically the same but different! I was sure someone on here would know for sure!
> 
> - 75c


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## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

> *Splinter:*
> You amps math is off.
> 
> 3hp isn t 19A at 220v, its 19A @ 110v, the 220V current is HALF - or about the 10A I stated above.
> ...


That is a UL standard used for a motor at full load, though various tables seem to vary +/- a few percent.

Full load motor current

Little to do with the SI definitions (745.7 watts / 1 HP) since there are mechanical losses (3HP of power in is not 3HP of mechanical power out)

You are correct about the deratings, that is why I assume they claimed "3HP" for capacity, which is fine at 10A as derived for non-motors, but truth bending for AC induction motors.


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## Woodmaster1 (Apr 26, 2011)

I had that one but changed it over to hard wired one to the blast gates no more remote. I just open the blast gate on the machine in use.


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## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

My shop is small. I made a power cord with an outlet box 'T'd with a switch, all with 12-2 with ground SO wire. I keep the switch to my left within arms reach as I sit at the saw.

This gives me easy manual control without having to grunt around to blast gates. Since I built the box and switch, I used "better" components for the plug, switch and receptical. I *know* its wired tight & right. I also used twist-lock connectors so no sagging plugs. The screw mount (not plastic push-in) keeps things mechanically tight. In fact I have two of these, one for the Air compressor ans another for the Vac (DC):









'Remote' power controls.

The sanders are connected directly as is the saw - the DC works well enough even if I leave all three gates opened. The planer doesn't need a DC connection as it has its own catch bag. The rest of the tools (router, bandsaw, drill press, hand power tools, etc.) sawdust just hits the floor.


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## RCCinNC (Jul 4, 2017)

So…When it rains it pours. My drum sander was making unpleasant intermittent potentially gear stripping noises today, so in order to investigate…I needed to unplug the motor from the on/off switch and speed control box.

Guess what.



























One of the prongs was completely fused into the outlet, with the faston connectors showing signs of overheating and some pitting evident on the back side of the outlet tangs. The main motor is 110V 15.5 amp. The outlet for the motor mounted in the control box was rated at 15 amp. Oy vay.

I want to extend the existing wiring…not much to work with unfortunately without opening the control unit itself…and add an outboard 20 amp 110V outlet for the motor. Getting into the box looks a bit sketchy, so just tempted to order a new replacement outlet and pop it in. Not the best thing, but certainly the easiest. Hopefully the motor/gear box is OK. A replacement is 345.00…. : (


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## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Hey IBEWJON!

Please weigh in on this.


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## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

Stormy times RCC!

That is the exact thing that happened with my 16/32

The box is no problem. just loosen the set screw on one end of the coupler to the conveyor drive roller. It helps if you use a marker to make a line showing how the coupler clocks with the shaft in case you spin either while the box is removed. There is a flat on the shaft for the set screw and it's not much fun trying to find it when the parts are slid together.

Opening the box is simple enough with the four screws, lots of room in there.

Adding an external box is not really necessary if you have a good socket, but it makes life easier since you can just clip off the connectors and add on extensions for the box.


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## RCCinNC (Jul 4, 2017)

> Stormy times RCC!
> 
> That is the exact thing that happened with my 16/32
> 
> ...


Thanks Splint. I was going to PM you if ya didn't show, because I knew you'd had similar issues. I might PM if I have more questions/issues if that's OK. 
Hoping the conveyor drive's OK, can't investigate that until I get it running again. The motor's are discontinued, so yeah…a few out there, but not for much longer. I might have to train a pack of squirrels as a replacement. I like a challenge but that'd pushing it….; )


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## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

> Thanks Splint. I was going to PM you if ya didn't show, because I knew you'd had similar issues. I might PM if I have more questions/issues if that's OK.
> Hoping the conveyor drive's OK, can't investigate that until I get it running again. The motor's are discontinued, so yeah…a few out there, but not for much longer. I might have to train a pack of squirrels as a replacement. I like a challenge but that'd pushing it….; )
> 
> - RCCinNC


Fine by me.

Squirrels are a good alternative, but as you probably know, they are nuttier than, well, squirrel $hit.

I've had other issues with my control box, surging conveyor belt led me to replacing a few components in the control (basically a light dimmer circuit) and the feed rate dials on/off switch broke and I had to wire in a small toggle switch to control that.

I believe the socket failure is similar to the remote issue. The motor cord puts stress on the sockets internal contacts, they loosen up a bit and warm up, the cheap plastic socket body softens up and process repeats.

Fun times!

UPS just delivered my new industrial grade socket for the remote so that'll be back in service soon 8^)


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## RCCinNC (Jul 4, 2017)

> Thanks Splint. I was going to PM you if ya didn't show, because I knew you'd had similar issues. I might PM if I have more questions/issues if that's OK.
> Hoping the conveyor drive's OK, can't investigate that until I get it running again. The motor's are discontinued, so yeah…a few out there, but not for much longer. I might have to train a pack of squirrels as a replacement. I like a challenge but that'd pushing it….; )
> 
> - RCCinNC
> ...


Oh fun times indeed! I'm actually enjoying the issues I'm having, mostly because of the posts here and the learning experience…not to mention the humor…; )
And regarding the squirrels, you're definitely right about that….but it gives me hope. Being so much like them in personality trait means training them may be easier than I realized….or maybe it'll be the other way round. 
Who knows. Maybe it's a "Goodbye and Thanks for All the Nuts" kind of thing. (With respects to the late, great Douglas Adams) 
Let us know how your repair works out!


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

Interesting seeing the failure of the Faston type connectors. These are literally used everywhere. There must be something that happened to cause the failure.


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## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

Hey Redoak,

Not to beat a dead horse, but being an EE these kind of failures fascinate me 8^)

I have this unit sitting on my desk while I do my work-from-home stint, plenty of time to stare at it and ponder 8^)

The Fastons are a good connector when used correctly and certainly are popular for high current applications.









They have three contact surfaces, the rolled portions provide a narrow, straight line of contact and the flat section is usually slightly domed to press against the rear. There also usually is a small tab sticking out here that will spring into a hole on the mating blade, acting as a lock to keep the connector from sliding off.

I'm fairly convinced that the failure mode of these remote control switches and the drum sanders comes down to the torque being applied by the motor cord to the socket. The socket body is plastic and doesn't offer much support for the motor cords contact blades.










For the remotes, the internal connector inside the socket uses a "triple wipe", spring contacts, two on the flats of the plug blade and a side contact along the edge. The same wiper design used in the more robust commercial/industrial grade wall sockets.

Here are the sockets contacts, left and right, sitting side by side.










Both RCC's and my failures were on the right side socket hole where the plug blade is horizontal. You can see from the picture that the socket wipers have spread out slightly. When the cord is applying the torque, this side will loose contact with the bottom wiper where as the other side of the socket, with its vertical plug blade, will still maintain contact.
The Fastons on both sides of my socket had an ok fit, but definitely not the death grip of some I have had the pleasure of pulling. The small tab that is designed to spring into a hole on the blade is barely even visible.










Looking close at the contact surfaces, only a very small area of the Faston is touching the sockets blade. With the loss of contact surface from the plug, the sockets internals on the right side heated up which in turn caused the loss of some spring tension in the Faston's grip. This all cascaded as heat built up and connections worsened.

A close look at the blade that the Faston connects with:

This is the side where the rolled over portion of the Faston makes contact. You can clearly see the two strips where the metal-to-metal meets (and the brown area in between which is the charring residue). Not much surface area there and that hole for the small spring tab is ridiculously over sized, loosing a high percentage of the surface that the Faston makes contact with!










On the back side, the large hole in the blade and the Faston's lack of any real spring tab make the contact surface here minimal









So to sum it up,
Weak plastic in the socket body and torque from the motor cord/plug caused the sockets internals to heat up and distort. The poorly manufactured locking tab on the Faston connector plus the hot terminal probably weakening the spring tension in the Faston led to further heating from the poor connection and high amperage motor load.

I didn't dissect the socket in my drum sander when it failed in the same way, but the symptoms were all the same.


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

Thanks….as an engineer ( not electrical) I appreciate a great explanation and supporting pictures.


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## RCCinNC (Jul 4, 2017)

> Thanks….as an engineer ( not electrical) I appreciate a great explanation and supporting pictures.
> 
> - Redoak49


That goes for non engineers too. Thanks for that Splintergroup!


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## MatthewG (Oct 16, 2010)

One other thing to consider. Non-soldered electrical connection can develop contact resistance. The plugs we generally use have plating to help with this. Importantly, the occasional unplug/plug cycle (removal/insertion) tends to clean off any buildup of oxidation (corrosion) or contamination (dust, dirt, etc.)

However, some things (like dust collectors, at least in my shop) never get unplugged-so the removal/insertion cannot clean up the contacts. At 12A, half an ohm of contact resistance is like 70W since P = I^2 x R. That is more than enough to cause this level of heat damage. That same contact resistance would give 6V drop, and so the motor would still run fine.

Just a thought. (I do use the same Long Ranger remote control, and will be checking mine!)


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## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

Repair complete! The internal bosses cast into the plastic face were perfect for mounting a standard outlet. I just removed the ground "spring" on the mount tab so it all sits flush. Clip off the Fastons, strip back the insulation, a light tinning w/solder, and stuff them into the back side wire clamps on the socket. The ground wire got wrapped around the sockets ground screw and everything made tight.

Only "regret" was not being able to find the socket in black (at least at a "normal" price), but I'll deal with the shame.

Thanks RCC! I would have ignored this until it fried.


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## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

You didn't put soldered, stranded wire into the "push wire" holes instead of using the screws did you? Ummm thats a "no-no". Those connections are for *SOLID COPPER* only, *NOT* tinned stranded wire.

Pull it apart and use the *screw terminals* for attachment.

This will cause issues sooner rather than later - especially in a high current application.


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

That's just silly. All those wires spreading out over the rest of the outlet , PROBABLY, work as a flux capacitor like shield.


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## MatthewG (Oct 16, 2010)

I pulled my Long Ranger control box apart today to inspect. It has been in use for a couple of decades in three (maybe four, don't know) different shops. Long story short, the plug and connectors were fine on my unit-no worries there. But I did add "unplug/replug dust connector" to the annual maintenance list.

I was impressed with the build quality overall. Neat wiring, well terminated wires. My cord is well supported and leaves the box straight, for what that is worth.



















Thanks, RCCinNC for the original post. Good catch!


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## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

> You didn t put soldered, stranded wire into the "push wire" holes instead of using the screws did you? Ummm thats a "no-no". Those connections are for *SOLID COPPER* only, *NOT* tinned stranded wire.
> 
> Pull it apart and use the *screw terminals* for attachment.
> 
> ...


This is the commercial/industrial grade version so the back wiring holes are not the silly spring clip (which should be illegal IMO), but instead are the clamp surfaces where the wire is gripped by tightening the side screw. Besides, these back wiring provisions are spec'd for up to #10 solid or stranded copper wire.


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## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

Matthew, I think your cord support is the key. What HP is your collector?


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## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Ah, ok, those clamps are correct with or without solder. No problem.

From a purely theoretical POV, solder should not be used with stranded wire. When stranded wire is compressed in the clamp the strands are free to move into a tight configuration and will remain that way - tight.

Stranded wire that has been soldered is not able to move so the solder is under mechanical stress. That, over time, coupled with high currents can cause the solder to cold flow, thereby loosening the connect and increasing the resistance.

I have never heard of this causing a fire.


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## MatthewG (Oct 16, 2010)

splintergroup, it is a Leeson 1.5HP motor, wired for 240V 8.5A. I haven't ever measured the current draw. Rating plate photo below. Oddly enough, the motor was manufactured about a 45 minute drive from my shop-built in Grafton, WI.

I have been super satisfied with the overall dust collection system. It uses an ancient Oneida Air cyclone (the thing weighs a ton) and 4" PVC runs. It is connected to my SawStop, a 13" Dewalt planer, a DJ-15 jointer, and a older 14" Delta band saw (with shopmade adapters.)


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## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

Thanks Matthew! The lower power draw certainly helps (I have a 2HP Leeson).

I often run mine for up to an hour when drum sanding, several times getting the motor hot enough during the summer to trip it's thermal breaker.


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## RCCinNC (Jul 4, 2017)

> You didn t put soldered, stranded wire into the "push wire" holes instead of using the screws did you? Ummm thats a "no-no". Those connections are for *SOLID COPPER* only, *NOT* tinned stranded wire.
> 
> Pull it apart and use the *screw terminals* for attachment.
> 
> ...


I'm glad to hear this. I was wondering about this issue myself. The small company I used to work for had two electricians …who absolutely refused to use the push in clips on the standard duty components. The added ease of finishing out must have been tempting, but they felt them wholly inadequate for both long term reliability and safety.
Glad to know you're not going to spontaneously combust Splintergroup!


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## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

> Glad to know you're not going to spontaneously combust Splintergroup!
> 
> - RCCinNC


I wouldn't hear of it! 8^)

My entire house had the lowest grade of outlets ($0.29 stickers still on each one, built in '83) all with back stabbed wires. My first clue was that each lamp would flicker for a few seconds every now and then. I replaced each one with the clamping back wiring feature (spec grade). I still used the old wires and yes it makes for a faster finish, but since the wires were all twisted properly and proper nuts installed, it seemed ok.

Parents house had aluminum wiring, same symptoms just scarier.


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## MatthewG (Oct 16, 2010)

> Parents house had aluminum wiring, same symptoms just scarier.


One of my profs in college was an expert witness on a number of Burger King restaurant fires that were suspected to originate with AL wiring. Handled correctly - anti-ox, the right fixtures and devices, and proper torque-AL turned out to be quite reliable. But the techniques for "handled correctly" were not clear at first. At least in the Midwest, I don't know of anyone who uses AL for residential wiring other than service entrances.


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## RCCinNC (Jul 4, 2017)

. 


> Parents house had aluminum wiring, same symptoms just scarier.
> 
> One of my profs in college was an expert witness on a number of Burger King restaurant fires that were suspected to originate with AL wiring. Handled correctly - anti-ox, the right fixtures and devices, and proper torque-AL turned out to be quite reliable. But the techniques for "handled correctly" were not clear at first. At least in the Midwest, I don t know of anyone who uses AL for residential wiring other than service entrances.
> 
> - MatthewG


 Aluminum wiring was in our first house that was built in 1973 and that we bought in 1985. If y'all remember those days…it definitely paid off refinancing the mortgage a few years later. ; ) One day our cat was batting at one of the outlets. On closer inspection, surprise surprise…aluminum wiring, arcing behind the wall plate. Gee thanks for not filling us in Mr. home inspector. Got very familiar with DeoxIt, cu/al comparable wire nuts, outlets and switches. 
Haven't lived there for twenty years, but our previous home hasn't burnt to the ground that I know of. To this day, I'll argue that a dog may be a man's best friend, but our cat sure saved our a$$. ; )


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