# Why are table legs mortise and tennoned into the apron?



## millssnell (Oct 24, 2010)

Guys,

I am stumped on what to do on this one! A customer asked for a kitchen table and specifically said that they wanted to legs to be attached inside the apron, rather than into the apron itself.

Why are table legs almost always mortise and tennoned as the corner of the apron? Is it going to look funny for me to build the table the way the customer is asking?

Table is 54" long and 36" wide. Thicker top pine table with 3×3 legs.

I'd love any feedback, i.e. help me think…


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## cabmaker (Sep 16, 2010)

Aprons joined to,(set into) the leg lends itself for more racking resistance. But I would find out exactly what they mean by inside the apron. May simply be that they are unable to describre what they mean. One could say that with a traditional mating of leg to apron that the bulk of the leg is insede the apron perimater. Good luck with this one.


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## Rick Dennington (Aug 27, 2009)

??


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## Alongiron (Jan 10, 2011)

I think you should make a mock up for your customer showing both options. This way there will be no surprises. If they want it made so they are set to the inside; so be it…it is there table!


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## danr (Sep 5, 2009)

I have made tables in the way that I believe your customer is asking for.

The apron is simply a rectangle (open box) with butt joints. I like to leave the short or long sides of the apron (take your pick) running a bit longer to prodrude past the butt joint slightly. Then chamfer or round over the protruding part for a nice clean look.

When I have done t this way I generally screw the apron to the top of the leg and I have also set the apron into a shallow rabbit around the top of the leg (for even more support). This looks pretty good in my opinion and is less labor intensive then the traditional motise and tennon.

Mock it up and take a look.

Good luck.


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## MNgary (Oct 13, 2011)

One option: Use thick enough stock for the legs so you can recess the apron into the top of the legs and have the legs (below the apron) meet the outside edge of the apron. This would allow having an apron that continues around/over the legs.

Another option: design the table with a hidden structural 'apron' that is tenoned into the legs and then install a decorative apron that covers the legs and hidden structural apron.

I'm certain there are many other options, these are just what immediately comes to mind.


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## Sawkerf (Dec 31, 2009)

Kitchen tables are probably subjected to more racking stresses than any other table in a home. Dining room tables would run a close second, but only because they're used less often.

A M&T joint is one of the strongest joints you can make.

In your position, I would encouage the customer to go with M&T.


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## GaryC (Dec 31, 2008)

Have you seen oval tables? The legs are always inside the apron. No biggie. You take the time to add support on the underside. If you get the chance, go look at the underside of an oval table. You'll see how it's done


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## robbert (Oct 14, 2011)

Why are table legs almost always mortise and tennoned as the corner of the apron? Actually it is rare to find this on large tables. Most table legs are held on with hanger bolts through a corner block. This way the legs are removeable for shipping making the table easier to haldle and less likely to to be damaged,


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## renners (Apr 9, 2010)

I think you're over thinking this. The apron will be just like a pelmet hanging from the table top covering the legs and frame of the table. You could do a conventional M&T job of the legs and frame, or if you want to speed things up, pocket screw either side of a biscuit and add glue blocks to strengthen see image. Ask yourself why does your client want pine (is it because it's inexpensive) and if they want an inexpensive job, do you need to make it inexpensively?


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## fussy (Jan 18, 2010)

They probably want to be able to remove the legs for ease of moving the table in and out. Some houses are tight with narrow doors and a table that big would be a booger to get in (in my house, for example). Renner has given you the solution, and I vote for #3 but would use a hanger bolt instead of a screw.

Steve


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## Milo (Apr 24, 2009)

I once saw a table I guy made, HUGE dining room (it must have been 4'x8') table that had been broken at all four leg joints in a move. Incredibly heavy table. The insurance company hired me to make repairs.

I took one look at the table and DECLINED.

The guy had used biscuit joints for his mortise and tennoned joints in the apron.

I was amazed it took a move to make it fall apart…


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