# My Home Made Thickness Sander



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

*The Drum*

When making my rolling pins, I use the thickness planer to bring the thin strips down to 1/8" thick. Unfortunately, if the grain in the wood is not uniform- or there are knots- the strips shatter. This wastes a lot of wood and doesn't do the planer any good either. It seemed to me a thickness sander would be perfect for this process. Well, Craig's List wasn't producing any results and I couldn't afford a new one. Time to take action!
Starting with what seemed to me to be the most critical/difficult part; I began researching construction methods and gathering parts for the drum. The choices were narrowed down to three. One- buy the kit, two- solid wood cylinder or 3- PVC/wood combination. #1 was quickly eliminated- I'm cheap! #2- maybe, but then I found a hunk of 3" PVC in my stash of plumbing left overs. #3 it is- I'm cheap! Next, the pillow block bearings- had to buy these- $20 each. The 5/8" shaft was from the scrap bin at the local Vocational School.

Glued up some oak scraps and began turning the end cap, pulley end and center supports.









The process is the same for the end block, pulley block and center supports. The center supports were sliced from a single turning. 
Turn a blank to a slightly larger diameter than the PVC. Turn a tenon on one end to permit the use of a chuck.









Remount the blank with the tenon in a chuck.









Drill the blank to fit the center axle.









Remove the drill bit/Jacobs chuck and remount the live center. Advance the live center into the axle hole. Check to make sure the blank spins true. The first end cap turned out to be slightly misaligned. I didn't see it until testing the drum and motor combination. Fortunately, it wasn't too difficult to disassemble the drum and make a new end cap. Place a piece of cut off PVC over the Live Center. This will be used to test for the correct diameter as the blank is turned.









Turn the blank to the inside diameter of the PVC, testing for a snug fit. I left about 1 ½ " long shoulder- turned to the PVC's outside diameter- on the End Cap piece.









The center supports are snug fit piece that was sliced in half.

The pulley end is turned in the same fashion as the end cap. The only real difference is that the "shoulder" is longer to accommodate the integral pulley. In addition, the tenon, used by the chuck, is left in place to allow a spring pin to capture the axle.



























The PVC is cut to length and the wooden pieces fitted into place. Mark the locations of the center supports and the end pieces. These will have screws to capture the PVC to the wood, later.









Drill and countersink the PVC for screws. I wasn't sure how these would affect the balance so I evenly spaced the screw lengthwise and at 90 degrees around the circumference. Also, not being a plumber, I did not realize that 3" PVC is not solid (at least what I had). Mine was a foam core type. It seems to be working OK, however. Just had to be careful not to press hard on the countersink!









Once the PVC is secured and everything is positioned, drill a hole in the pulley end tenon to accept a spring pin. This hole is drilled completely through the axle and tenon. I wanted to be certain that if something broke the spring pin could be driven back out.









So far, I had to buy the pillow block bearings and the spring pin.


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## KylesWoodworking (Jan 11, 2011)

lew said:


> *The Drum*
> 
> When making my rolling pins, I use the thickness planer to bring the thin strips down to 1/8" thick. Unfortunately, if the grain in the wood is not uniform- or there are knots- the strips shatter. This wastes a lot of wood and doesn't do the planer any good either. It seemed to me a thickness sander would be perfect for this process. Well, Craig's List wasn't producing any results and I couldn't afford a new one. Time to take action!
> Starting with what seemed to me to be the most critical/difficult part; I began researching construction methods and gathering parts for the drum. The choices were narrowed down to three. One- buy the kit, two- solid wood cylinder or 3- PVC/wood combination. #1 was quickly eliminated- I'm cheap! #2- maybe, but then I found a hunk of 3" PVC in my stash of plumbing left overs. #3 it is- I'm cheap! Next, the pillow block bearings- had to buy these- $20 each. The 5/8" shaft was from the scrap bin at the local Vocational School.
> ...


Looks great Lew!
Kyle


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

lew said:


> *The Drum*
> 
> When making my rolling pins, I use the thickness planer to bring the thin strips down to 1/8" thick. Unfortunately, if the grain in the wood is not uniform- or there are knots- the strips shatter. This wastes a lot of wood and doesn't do the planer any good either. It seemed to me a thickness sander would be perfect for this process. Well, Craig's List wasn't producing any results and I couldn't afford a new one. Time to take action!
> Starting with what seemed to me to be the most critical/difficult part; I began researching construction methods and gathering parts for the drum. The choices were narrowed down to three. One- buy the kit, two- solid wood cylinder or 3- PVC/wood combination. #1 was quickly eliminated- I'm cheap! #2- maybe, but then I found a hunk of 3" PVC in my stash of plumbing left overs. #3 it is- I'm cheap! Next, the pillow block bearings- had to buy these- $20 each. The 5/8" shaft was from the scrap bin at the local Vocational School.
> ...


Lew:

It's looking great. Nice and cheap so far.


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

lew said:


> *The Drum*
> 
> When making my rolling pins, I use the thickness planer to bring the thin strips down to 1/8" thick. Unfortunately, if the grain in the wood is not uniform- or there are knots- the strips shatter. This wastes a lot of wood and doesn't do the planer any good either. It seemed to me a thickness sander would be perfect for this process. Well, Craig's List wasn't producing any results and I couldn't afford a new one. Time to take action!
> Starting with what seemed to me to be the most critical/difficult part; I began researching construction methods and gathering parts for the drum. The choices were narrowed down to three. One- buy the kit, two- solid wood cylinder or 3- PVC/wood combination. #1 was quickly eliminated- I'm cheap! #2- maybe, but then I found a hunk of 3" PVC in my stash of plumbing left overs. #3 it is- I'm cheap! Next, the pillow block bearings- had to buy these- $20 each. The 5/8" shaft was from the scrap bin at the local Vocational School.
> ...


Ok, points to you for the PICTURES! Many thanks.

However, in your other thread, I asked for PICTURES & *SPECIFICATIONS*!!! So, if you could be so kind…...

What are the spec's & source of the pillow block bearings?
What is the diameter & width of the pulley on the drum?
How did you arrive at those spec's?

Inquiring minds (and idiots like me) want to know!!!

Seriously, nice work with pictures and documentation of the process! Please keep posting as much detail as you can/have time for.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

lew said:


> *The Drum*
> 
> When making my rolling pins, I use the thickness planer to bring the thin strips down to 1/8" thick. Unfortunately, if the grain in the wood is not uniform- or there are knots- the strips shatter. This wastes a lot of wood and doesn't do the planer any good either. It seemed to me a thickness sander would be perfect for this process. Well, Craig's List wasn't producing any results and I couldn't afford a new one. Time to take action!
> Starting with what seemed to me to be the most critical/difficult part; I began researching construction methods and gathering parts for the drum. The choices were narrowed down to three. One- buy the kit, two- solid wood cylinder or 3- PVC/wood combination. #1 was quickly eliminated- I'm cheap! #2- maybe, but then I found a hunk of 3" PVC in my stash of plumbing left overs. #3 it is- I'm cheap! Next, the pillow block bearings- had to buy these- $20 each. The 5/8" shaft was from the scrap bin at the local Vocational School.
> ...


Looks good, Lew!


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

lew said:


> *The Drum*
> 
> When making my rolling pins, I use the thickness planer to bring the thin strips down to 1/8" thick. Unfortunately, if the grain in the wood is not uniform- or there are knots- the strips shatter. This wastes a lot of wood and doesn't do the planer any good either. It seemed to me a thickness sander would be perfect for this process. Well, Craig's List wasn't producing any results and I couldn't afford a new one. Time to take action!
> Starting with what seemed to me to be the most critical/difficult part; I began researching construction methods and gathering parts for the drum. The choices were narrowed down to three. One- buy the kit, two- solid wood cylinder or 3- PVC/wood combination. #1 was quickly eliminated- I'm cheap! #2- maybe, but then I found a hunk of 3" PVC in my stash of plumbing left overs. #3 it is- I'm cheap! Next, the pillow block bearings- had to buy these- $20 each. The 5/8" shaft was from the scrap bin at the local Vocational School.
> ...


*Karson, CJ, and Kyle*- Thanks!

*Randy*- The pillow blocks are from Peer Bearings. Here are the numbers from the box UCP202-10; 11496; W128618. These are for a 5/8" shaft. The drum pulley is 3.6" diameter- what I had. The motor pulley diameter is 2.6" diameter. I wanted the drum to turn slower than the motor, for power. May have to decrease the motor pulley diameter if things bog down. I used the pulley on the motor to get the dimensions for the drum pulley. The belt width is a little under 1/2"- what I had here. How did I arrive at these specification? Pure Luck!

Lew


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

lew said:


> *The Drum*
> 
> When making my rolling pins, I use the thickness planer to bring the thin strips down to 1/8" thick. Unfortunately, if the grain in the wood is not uniform- or there are knots- the strips shatter. This wastes a lot of wood and doesn't do the planer any good either. It seemed to me a thickness sander would be perfect for this process. Well, Craig's List wasn't producing any results and I couldn't afford a new one. Time to take action!
> Starting with what seemed to me to be the most critical/difficult part; I began researching construction methods and gathering parts for the drum. The choices were narrowed down to three. One- buy the kit, two- solid wood cylinder or 3- PVC/wood combination. #1 was quickly eliminated- I'm cheap! #2- maybe, but then I found a hunk of 3" PVC in my stash of plumbing left overs. #3 it is- I'm cheap! Next, the pillow block bearings- had to buy these- $20 each. The 5/8" shaft was from the scrap bin at the local Vocational School.
> ...


this is great lew, i love when these things are made from the cheap, good ole hard work and using the ole noggin…grizz


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

lew said:


> *The Drum*
> 
> When making my rolling pins, I use the thickness planer to bring the thin strips down to 1/8" thick. Unfortunately, if the grain in the wood is not uniform- or there are knots- the strips shatter. This wastes a lot of wood and doesn't do the planer any good either. It seemed to me a thickness sander would be perfect for this process. Well, Craig's List wasn't producing any results and I couldn't afford a new one. Time to take action!
> Starting with what seemed to me to be the most critical/difficult part; I began researching construction methods and gathering parts for the drum. The choices were narrowed down to three. One- buy the kit, two- solid wood cylinder or 3- PVC/wood combination. #1 was quickly eliminated- I'm cheap! #2- maybe, but then I found a hunk of 3" PVC in my stash of plumbing left overs. #3 it is- I'm cheap! Next, the pillow block bearings- had to buy these- $20 each. The 5/8" shaft was from the scrap bin at the local Vocational School.
> ...


*Grizz*- Thanks! Cheap is good!


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

lew said:


> *The Drum*
> 
> When making my rolling pins, I use the thickness planer to bring the thin strips down to 1/8" thick. Unfortunately, if the grain in the wood is not uniform- or there are knots- the strips shatter. This wastes a lot of wood and doesn't do the planer any good either. It seemed to me a thickness sander would be perfect for this process. Well, Craig's List wasn't producing any results and I couldn't afford a new one. Time to take action!
> Starting with what seemed to me to be the most critical/difficult part; I began researching construction methods and gathering parts for the drum. The choices were narrowed down to three. One- buy the kit, two- solid wood cylinder or 3- PVC/wood combination. #1 was quickly eliminated- I'm cheap! #2- maybe, but then I found a hunk of 3" PVC in my stash of plumbing left overs. #3 it is- I'm cheap! Next, the pillow block bearings- had to buy these- $20 each. The 5/8" shaft was from the scrap bin at the local Vocational School.
> ...


Lew,

Thanks for the specs.
I plan on building one of these someday. As my brain is a great cavern of emptiness, I'm trying to learn/absorb all the info I can. I fiqure if I fill it up then there won't be any more room for the voices!!!


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

lew said:


> *The Drum*
> 
> When making my rolling pins, I use the thickness planer to bring the thin strips down to 1/8" thick. Unfortunately, if the grain in the wood is not uniform- or there are knots- the strips shatter. This wastes a lot of wood and doesn't do the planer any good either. It seemed to me a thickness sander would be perfect for this process. Well, Craig's List wasn't producing any results and I couldn't afford a new one. Time to take action!
> Starting with what seemed to me to be the most critical/difficult part; I began researching construction methods and gathering parts for the drum. The choices were narrowed down to three. One- buy the kit, two- solid wood cylinder or 3- PVC/wood combination. #1 was quickly eliminated- I'm cheap! #2- maybe, but then I found a hunk of 3" PVC in my stash of plumbing left overs. #3 it is- I'm cheap! Next, the pillow block bearings- had to buy these- $20 each. The 5/8" shaft was from the scrap bin at the local Vocational School.
> ...


Randy- know what you mean. I'm like Homer Simpson, every time I learn something new it pushes something else out.


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## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

lew said:


> *The Drum*
> 
> When making my rolling pins, I use the thickness planer to bring the thin strips down to 1/8" thick. Unfortunately, if the grain in the wood is not uniform- or there are knots- the strips shatter. This wastes a lot of wood and doesn't do the planer any good either. It seemed to me a thickness sander would be perfect for this process. Well, Craig's List wasn't producing any results and I couldn't afford a new one. Time to take action!
> Starting with what seemed to me to be the most critical/difficult part; I began researching construction methods and gathering parts for the drum. The choices were narrowed down to three. One- buy the kit, two- solid wood cylinder or 3- PVC/wood combination. #1 was quickly eliminated- I'm cheap! #2- maybe, but then I found a hunk of 3" PVC in my stash of plumbing left overs. #3 it is- I'm cheap! Next, the pillow block bearings- had to buy these- $20 each. The 5/8" shaft was from the scrap bin at the local Vocational School.
> ...


Lew, this will be a fine sander and I'll follow along to see what happens.

helluvawreck

https://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

lew said:


> *The Drum*
> 
> When making my rolling pins, I use the thickness planer to bring the thin strips down to 1/8" thick. Unfortunately, if the grain in the wood is not uniform- or there are knots- the strips shatter. This wastes a lot of wood and doesn't do the planer any good either. It seemed to me a thickness sander would be perfect for this process. Well, Craig's List wasn't producing any results and I couldn't afford a new one. Time to take action!
> Starting with what seemed to me to be the most critical/difficult part; I began researching construction methods and gathering parts for the drum. The choices were narrowed down to three. One- buy the kit, two- solid wood cylinder or 3- PVC/wood combination. #1 was quickly eliminated- I'm cheap! #2- maybe, but then I found a hunk of 3" PVC in my stash of plumbing left overs. #3 it is- I'm cheap! Next, the pillow block bearings- had to buy these- $20 each. The 5/8" shaft was from the scrap bin at the local Vocational School.
> ...


"Helluva.."-

Thanks! I'll post updates as I find improvements/failures. If I can figure out how to do it, maybe even a short video.

Lew


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

*Testing The Drum*

After building the drum, a test was in order. After all, if this part didn't run true there was no sense in moving forward.
Using a piece of Corian, the motor and drum were clamped down in position. The motor is a 120v 1/3 HP motor salvaged out of our old furnace. The belt is the one from my table saw- a link belt replaced it.



















With some anxiousness, power was applied. Holy Cow, It Worked!!

The pulley ratio is about 1:1.5- the drum being larger- so the speed of the drum is slightly more than 1000 RPMs.
I hear everyone talking about the "Nickel Test" so what the heck-










There is belt vibration but some of that should be eliminated when the motor is mounted properly. But the nickel stood on edge!!

Next, the table lifting mechanism. Talk about overkill!!


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

lew said:


> *Testing The Drum*
> 
> After building the drum, a test was in order. After all, if this part didn't run true there was no sense in moving forward.
> Using a piece of Corian, the motor and drum were clamped down in position. The motor is a 120v 1/3 HP motor salvaged out of our old furnace. The belt is the one from my table saw- a link belt replaced it.
> ...


This is great.

Nice.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

lew said:


> *Testing The Drum*
> 
> After building the drum, a test was in order. After all, if this part didn't run true there was no sense in moving forward.
> Using a piece of Corian, the motor and drum were clamped down in position. The motor is a 120v 1/3 HP motor salvaged out of our old furnace. The belt is the one from my table saw- a link belt replaced it.
> ...


Lew, that looks like a useful project!


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

lew said:


> *Testing The Drum*
> 
> After building the drum, a test was in order. After all, if this part didn't run true there was no sense in moving forward.
> Using a piece of Corian, the motor and drum were clamped down in position. The motor is a 120v 1/3 HP motor salvaged out of our old furnace. The belt is the one from my table saw- a link belt replaced it.
> ...


Does the 1/3 HP motor have enough power or does it get bogged down on hard wide stock?

BTW: Love shop built machines. Great job.


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

lew said:


> *Testing The Drum*
> 
> After building the drum, a test was in order. After all, if this part didn't run true there was no sense in moving forward.
> Using a piece of Corian, the motor and drum were clamped down in position. The motor is a 120v 1/3 HP motor salvaged out of our old furnace. The belt is the one from my table saw- a link belt replaced it.
> ...


*Karson, CJ*- Thanks!

*Randy*- Haven't really tested it on anything wide yet but the 2 rolling pin strips don't affect it at all.


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

*The Table Adjustment Mechanism*

After researching many sander designs and knowing my tendency to over engineer everything, there was only one choice for the table adjusting/lifting mechanism.
The source of the lift came from this site and I give the author full credit- http://home.mchsi.com/~woodywrkng/DrumSander.html. The only change/addition I made was to add springs the help eliminate any "backlash" in the movement. The author of the site felt this mechanism gave more support over the full width of the table.
The arm pieces were made from ¾" x 1" oak, the top/bottom and front/rear pieces were thicker and wider to add support. All the pieces were cut and drilled prior to assembly. Assembly was with ¼" lag bolts and washers. The adjustment rod is a piece of 5/16" steel all-thread. A T-nut is used, on the rear of the back piece, into which the rod threads.














































Originally, the plan was to use a small star knob. However, it was difficult to determine how much adjustment was achieved from a slight rotation. The oversized knob makes it easier to see even the slightest advance. As it turns out, a full turn raises the table very close to 1/16".










Had to buy the all-thread and the screen door spring.

The next part will be about the framing.


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

lew said:


> *The Table Adjustment Mechanism*
> 
> After researching many sander designs and knowing my tendency to over engineer everything, there was only one choice for the table adjusting/lifting mechanism.
> The source of the lift came from this site and I give the author full credit- http://home.mchsi.com/~woodywrkng/DrumSander.html. The only change/addition I made was to add springs the help eliminate any "backlash" in the movement. The author of the site felt this mechanism gave more support over the full width of the table.
> ...


Wow: that's cool looking.


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

lew said:


> *The Table Adjustment Mechanism*
> 
> After researching many sander designs and knowing my tendency to over engineer everything, there was only one choice for the table adjusting/lifting mechanism.
> The source of the lift came from this site and I give the author full credit- http://home.mchsi.com/~woodywrkng/DrumSander.html. The only change/addition I made was to add springs the help eliminate any "backlash" in the movement. The author of the site felt this mechanism gave more support over the full width of the table.
> ...


Great job with the pic's!
I'm watching this intently.


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

lew said:


> *The Table Adjustment Mechanism*
> 
> After researching many sander designs and knowing my tendency to over engineer everything, there was only one choice for the table adjusting/lifting mechanism.
> The source of the lift came from this site and I give the author full credit- http://home.mchsi.com/~woodywrkng/DrumSander.html. The only change/addition I made was to add springs the help eliminate any "backlash" in the movement. The author of the site felt this mechanism gave more support over the full width of the table.
> ...


*Karson, Randy*- Thanks!!


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

lew said:


> *The Table Adjustment Mechanism*
> 
> After researching many sander designs and knowing my tendency to over engineer everything, there was only one choice for the table adjusting/lifting mechanism.
> The source of the lift came from this site and I give the author full credit- http://home.mchsi.com/~woodywrkng/DrumSander.html. The only change/addition I made was to add springs the help eliminate any "backlash" in the movement. The author of the site felt this mechanism gave more support over the full width of the table.
> ...


wow lew, you might be able to set up production and sell these from the house…you have graduated from rolling pin king…this is great…grizz


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

lew said:


> *The Table Adjustment Mechanism*
> 
> After researching many sander designs and knowing my tendency to over engineer everything, there was only one choice for the table adjusting/lifting mechanism.
> The source of the lift came from this site and I give the author full credit- http://home.mchsi.com/~woodywrkng/DrumSander.html. The only change/addition I made was to add springs the help eliminate any "backlash" in the movement. The author of the site felt this mechanism gave more support over the full width of the table.
> ...


*Grizz*- Thanks, but I think I'll stick to the small stuff!

Lew


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## JJohnston (May 22, 2009)

lew said:


> *The Table Adjustment Mechanism*
> 
> After researching many sander designs and knowing my tendency to over engineer everything, there was only one choice for the table adjusting/lifting mechanism.
> The source of the lift came from this site and I give the author full credit- http://home.mchsi.com/~woodywrkng/DrumSander.html. The only change/addition I made was to add springs the help eliminate any "backlash" in the movement. The author of the site felt this mechanism gave more support over the full width of the table.
> ...


Nice. I always thought there should be a better way to control or prevent the side-to-side tipping you're sure to get with a single jackscrew in the center.


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

lew said:


> *The Table Adjustment Mechanism*
> 
> After researching many sander designs and knowing my tendency to over engineer everything, there was only one choice for the table adjusting/lifting mechanism.
> The source of the lift came from this site and I give the author full credit- http://home.mchsi.com/~woodywrkng/DrumSander.html. The only change/addition I made was to add springs the help eliminate any "backlash" in the movement. The author of the site felt this mechanism gave more support over the full width of the table.
> ...


*JJohnston*- Thanks! The developer of the lift indicate that was the reason for the design.

Lew


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## ChrisMc45 (Jul 28, 2010)

lew said:


> *The Table Adjustment Mechanism*
> 
> After researching many sander designs and knowing my tendency to over engineer everything, there was only one choice for the table adjusting/lifting mechanism.
> The source of the lift came from this site and I give the author full credit- http://home.mchsi.com/~woodywrkng/DrumSander.html. The only change/addition I made was to add springs the help eliminate any "backlash" in the movement. The author of the site felt this mechanism gave more support over the full width of the table.
> ...


You say "over engineer everything" as if that were bad! Your forethought obviously paid off, nice man-made tool, and GREAT documentation/pictures


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

lew said:


> *The Table Adjustment Mechanism*
> 
> After researching many sander designs and knowing my tendency to over engineer everything, there was only one choice for the table adjusting/lifting mechanism.
> The source of the lift came from this site and I give the author full credit- http://home.mchsi.com/~woodywrkng/DrumSander.html. The only change/addition I made was to add springs the help eliminate any "backlash" in the movement. The author of the site felt this mechanism gave more support over the full width of the table.
> ...


Chris- Thanks! Just sometimes I over complicate the process.


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## FatherHooligan (Mar 27, 2008)

lew said:


> *The Table Adjustment Mechanism*
> 
> After researching many sander designs and knowing my tendency to over engineer everything, there was only one choice for the table adjusting/lifting mechanism.
> The source of the lift came from this site and I give the author full credit- http://home.mchsi.com/~woodywrkng/DrumSander.html. The only change/addition I made was to add springs the help eliminate any "backlash" in the movement. The author of the site felt this mechanism gave more support over the full width of the table.
> ...


Thank you for posting such a detailed blog! Favourited!


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

lew said:


> *The Table Adjustment Mechanism*
> 
> After researching many sander designs and knowing my tendency to over engineer everything, there was only one choice for the table adjusting/lifting mechanism.
> The source of the lift came from this site and I give the author full credit- http://home.mchsi.com/~woodywrkng/DrumSander.html. The only change/addition I made was to add springs the help eliminate any "backlash" in the movement. The author of the site felt this mechanism gave more support over the full width of the table.
> ...


Thanks, Mark, for the kind words!

Lew


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

*Building The Frame*

Now that the drum runs true and the table lift works, it was time to start building the frame. My intention was to use mortise and tenon joinery but my choice of material was 2×6 for the top and bottom of the sides. This was larger than my mortiser could handle. I know, I could have chopped them out by hand. I opted for half lap joints. 
The overall width of the frame is 23" and the table height is about 31". The length, at the bottom, is about 36". The table is 16" x 24". The frame is made of pine 2×4 and 2×6. All the joints are glued and screwed. The table is a piece of ¾" Melamine with ¾" plywood support and a 1" oak piece for the pivot hinge.
These photos are from the dry fit. I'm gonna need to get some more clamps!





































To increase the structural integrity, two 2×4 cross members were added at the bottom of the front and back of the frame. You will be able to see them in a later section.

Had to buy the 2 x materials.


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

lew said:


> *Building The Frame*
> 
> Now that the drum runs true and the table lift works, it was time to start building the frame. My intention was to use mortise and tenon joinery but my choice of material was 2×6 for the top and bottom of the sides. This was larger than my mortiser could handle. I know, I could have chopped them out by hand. I opted for half lap joints.
> The overall width of the frame is 23" and the table height is about 31". The length, at the bottom, is about 36". The table is 16" x 24". The frame is made of pine 2×4 and 2×6. All the joints are glued and screwed. The table is a piece of ¾" Melamine with ¾" plywood support and a 1" oak piece for the pivot hinge.
> ...


Did you joint and plane the framing lumber?


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## cmaxnavy (Dec 23, 2007)

lew said:


> *Building The Frame*
> 
> Now that the drum runs true and the table lift works, it was time to start building the frame. My intention was to use mortise and tenon joinery but my choice of material was 2×6 for the top and bottom of the sides. This was larger than my mortiser could handle. I know, I could have chopped them out by hand. I opted for half lap joints.
> The overall width of the frame is 23" and the table height is about 31". The length, at the bottom, is about 36". The table is 16" x 24". The frame is made of pine 2×4 and 2×6. All the joints are glued and screwed. The table is a piece of ¾" Melamine with ¾" plywood support and a 1" oak piece for the pivot hinge.
> ...


Lew, Your leveling mechanism is brilliant! I'll incorporate into my next sander. Max


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

lew said:


> *Building The Frame*
> 
> Now that the drum runs true and the table lift works, it was time to start building the frame. My intention was to use mortise and tenon joinery but my choice of material was 2×6 for the top and bottom of the sides. This was larger than my mortiser could handle. I know, I could have chopped them out by hand. I opted for half lap joints.
> The overall width of the frame is 23" and the table height is about 31". The length, at the bottom, is about 36". The table is 16" x 24". The frame is made of pine 2×4 and 2×6. All the joints are glued and screwed. The table is a piece of ¾" Melamine with ¾" plywood support and a 1" oak piece for the pivot hinge.
> ...


Lew:

A great strong frame.


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

lew said:


> *Building The Frame*
> 
> Now that the drum runs true and the table lift works, it was time to start building the frame. My intention was to use mortise and tenon joinery but my choice of material was 2×6 for the top and bottom of the sides. This was larger than my mortiser could handle. I know, I could have chopped them out by hand. I opted for half lap joints.
> The overall width of the frame is 23" and the table height is about 31". The length, at the bottom, is about 36". The table is 16" x 24". The frame is made of pine 2×4 and 2×6. All the joints are glued and screwed. The table is a piece of ¾" Melamine with ¾" plywood support and a 1" oak piece for the pivot hinge.
> ...


*Randy*- I did surface plane all the stock for the same thickness and edge jointed critical surfaces.

*Charles*- Thanks for *your* posts! Most of the ideas were "borrowed from your design.

*Karson*- Thanks!


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

*Mounting The Drum And Motor*

Time to mount the drum and motor to the frame. The choice of 2×6 sides was made to hopefully eliminate any flexing when work pieces were in contact with the sanding surface. However, that lead to difficulty in figuring out how to be able to mount the drum bearings to the sides. Long carriage bolts can be expensive! 
The sides are counter bored about 3" and then drilled to match the bolt diameter. An area around the mounting surface was mortised for an aluminum plate. The pillow block bearings will set on the plate, not the wooden surface. Again, my hope is to improve stability.



















I was afraid that the soft pine might crush enough to allow the bolts to spin during tightening. Once everything was dry fitted, the bolt heads were Gorilla Glued to help prevent them from spinning.










Finally, the aluminum plates are placed in position- ready for the drum to be bolted down.










The motor is mounted to a piece of 3/4 " plywood. The plywood is fastened to the frame using small "barn style" hinges at one end of the plywood. The weight of the motor creates the tension on the belt/pulley system. I routed slots for the motor mounting bolts in order to be able to adjust the motor side to side to align the belt/pulley.




























Had to buy 4 carriage bolts and nuts


----------



## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

lew said:


> *Mounting The Drum And Motor*
> 
> Time to mount the drum and motor to the frame. The choice of 2×6 sides was made to hopefully eliminate any flexing when work pieces were in contact with the sanding surface. However, that lead to difficulty in figuring out how to be able to mount the drum bearings to the sides. Long carriage bolts can be expensive!
> The sides are counter bored about 3" and then drilled to match the bolt diameter. An area around the mounting surface was mortised for an aluminum plate. The pillow block bearings will set on the plate, not the wooden surface. Again, my hope is to improve stability.
> ...


I like the addition of the aluminium plates for the pillow block bearings!

Keep on posting, I'm following you.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

lew said:


> *Mounting The Drum And Motor*
> 
> Time to mount the drum and motor to the frame. The choice of 2×6 sides was made to hopefully eliminate any flexing when work pieces were in contact with the sanding surface. However, that lead to difficulty in figuring out how to be able to mount the drum bearings to the sides. Long carriage bolts can be expensive!
> The sides are counter bored about 3" and then drilled to match the bolt diameter. An area around the mounting surface was mortised for an aluminum plate. The pillow block bearings will set on the plate, not the wooden surface. Again, my hope is to improve stability.
> ...


Lew:

I've used that belt tightening arrangement before also. It works great.


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

lew said:


> *Mounting The Drum And Motor*
> 
> Time to mount the drum and motor to the frame. The choice of 2×6 sides was made to hopefully eliminate any flexing when work pieces were in contact with the sanding surface. However, that lead to difficulty in figuring out how to be able to mount the drum bearings to the sides. Long carriage bolts can be expensive!
> The sides are counter bored about 3" and then drilled to match the bolt diameter. An area around the mounting surface was mortised for an aluminum plate. The pillow block bearings will set on the plate, not the wooden surface. Again, my hope is to improve stability.
> ...


*Randy, Karson*- Thanks!


----------



## ChrisMc45 (Jul 28, 2010)

lew said:


> *Mounting The Drum And Motor*
> 
> Time to mount the drum and motor to the frame. The choice of 2×6 sides was made to hopefully eliminate any flexing when work pieces were in contact with the sanding surface. However, that lead to difficulty in figuring out how to be able to mount the drum bearings to the sides. Long carriage bolts can be expensive!
> The sides are counter bored about 3" and then drilled to match the bolt diameter. An area around the mounting surface was mortised for an aluminum plate. The pillow block bearings will set on the plate, not the wooden surface. Again, my hope is to improve stability.
> ...


nice clamp pads on the pipe clamps, they look like material from a cutting board. I also like the PVC sleeves on the pipes, prevent the dreaded black marks, I am going to add that idea soonest.


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

lew said:


> *Mounting The Drum And Motor*
> 
> Time to mount the drum and motor to the frame. The choice of 2×6 sides was made to hopefully eliminate any flexing when work pieces were in contact with the sanding surface. However, that lead to difficulty in figuring out how to be able to mount the drum bearings to the sides. Long carriage bolts can be expensive!
> The sides are counter bored about 3" and then drilled to match the bolt diameter. An area around the mounting surface was mortised for an aluminum plate. The pillow block bearings will set on the plate, not the wooden surface. Again, my hope is to improve stability.
> ...


Chris-
That's exactly what they are! A friend is the owner of a restaurant. The old cutting boards make great glue up tables, too!


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

*Mounting The Table*

The final major part of the assembly is the table. The piece of ¾" Melamine is from the scrap box at the local Vocational School and the piano hinges are pieces left from a project made for my brother in law. The top is reinforced with a frame of ¾" plywood on three sides and a 1" piece of oak on the hinge side.



















The hinge is then screwed to a mounting/adjusting bracket that fits between the two sides of the frame. A slotted hole in each side of the bracket allows for vertical adjustments to assure the table is parallel to the drum. Although not shown, the backs of the slotted piece are covered with PSA sand paper to help prevent slipping during adjustment. The bolts are tightened securely once the table/drum alignment is achieved.





































The opposite end of the table (front of the sander) in screwed to the top of the lift mechanism with countersunk screws.

Had to buy 2 carriage bolts and nuts.


----------



## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

lew said:


> *Mounting The Table*
> 
> The final major part of the assembly is the table. The piece of ¾" Melamine is from the scrap box at the local Vocational School and the piano hinges are pieces left from a project made for my brother in law. The top is reinforced with a frame of ¾" plywood on three sides and a 1" piece of oak on the hinge side.
> 
> ...


Nice execution on this! Not only will it serve you well, it is costing you very little except "sweat equity"!


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

lew said:


> *Mounting The Table*
> 
> The final major part of the assembly is the table. The piece of ¾" Melamine is from the scrap box at the local Vocational School and the piano hinges are pieces left from a project made for my brother in law. The top is reinforced with a frame of ¾" plywood on three sides and a 1" piece of oak on the hinge side.
> 
> ...


Lew:

A great looking adjustment. and table arrangement.


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

lew said:


> *Mounting The Table*
> 
> The final major part of the assembly is the table. The piece of ¾" Melamine is from the scrap box at the local Vocational School and the piano hinges are pieces left from a project made for my brother in law. The top is reinforced with a frame of ¾" plywood on three sides and a 1" piece of oak on the hinge side.
> 
> ...


*Randy and Karson*- Thanks!


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

*The Sandpaper *

It was finally time to add the sand paper to the drum. Having decided on a Velcro (hook and loop) system, it was off to Super Grit http://www.supergrit.com/ . Their store is only a half an hour drive from here. The hook portion required 5 feet of material. This PSA stuff is 4" wide and is $2/foot. Also bought 3 different grits of the 3" wide loop paper. Their minimum purchase is 3 yards but at between $1.50 to $2.00 a yard it is reasonable. It took about 73" to wrap the drum but I think I can get it down to 72" and be able to get 2 applications from 4 yards.

The first step was to clean the PVC drum; started with mineral spirits then denatured alcohol. Next, carefully wrap the hook material, press it down, and allow it to "rest" overnight to get maximum adhesion.



















The above pictures also show the cross members added to the bottom of the frame- for stability; also, another view of the table's rear support/adjustment bracket as well as the screws holding the table front to the height adjustment.

Next, wrap the paper- this is 40 grit. Anchor BOTH ends. We have dust!










All day, I had been working from the rear of the sander. When it came time for the live fire test, I had anchored what I thought to be the leading edge of the paper- Wrong! As soon as the drum got some speed, the paper lifted and re-wrapped backwards around the drum. Fortunately, it did not tear but it did knock off some of the grit. (Note to self- anchor both ends.)










Had to buy the hook and loop system.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

lew said:


> *The Sandpaper *
> 
> It was finally time to add the sand paper to the drum. Having decided on a Velcro (hook and loop) system, it was off to Super Grit http://www.supergrit.com/ . Their store is only a half an hour drive from here. The hook portion required 5 feet of material. This PSA stuff is 4" wide and is $2/foot. Also bought 3 different grits of the 3" wide loop paper. Their minimum purchase is 3 yards but at between $1.50 to $2.00 a yard it is reasonable. It took about 73" to wrap the drum but I think I can get it down to 72" and be able to get 2 applications from 4 yards.
> 
> ...


sweet. what do you mean "I have been working from the rear side" Lew?


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

lew said:


> *The Sandpaper *
> 
> It was finally time to add the sand paper to the drum. Having decided on a Velcro (hook and loop) system, it was off to Super Grit http://www.supergrit.com/ . Their store is only a half an hour drive from here. The hook portion required 5 feet of material. This PSA stuff is 4" wide and is $2/foot. Also bought 3 different grits of the 3" wide loop paper. Their minimum purchase is 3 yards but at between $1.50 to $2.00 a yard it is reasonable. It took about 73" to wrap the drum but I think I can get it down to 72" and be able to get 2 applications from 4 yards.
> 
> ...


Thanks Sharon! Outfeed side- I guess that could be taken the wrong way ;^)


----------



## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

lew said:


> *The Sandpaper *
> 
> It was finally time to add the sand paper to the drum. Having decided on a Velcro (hook and loop) system, it was off to Super Grit http://www.supergrit.com/ . Their store is only a half an hour drive from here. The hook portion required 5 feet of material. This PSA stuff is 4" wide and is $2/foot. Also bought 3 different grits of the 3" wide loop paper. Their minimum purchase is 3 yards but at between $1.50 to $2.00 a yard it is reasonable. It took about 73" to wrap the drum but I think I can get it down to 72" and be able to get 2 applications from 4 yards.
> 
> ...


I think he means the "Outfeed" side.

Lew,
Makin' Sawdust fly!!! YEE-HAA!!


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

lew said:


> *The Sandpaper *
> 
> It was finally time to add the sand paper to the drum. Having decided on a Velcro (hook and loop) system, it was off to Super Grit http://www.supergrit.com/ . Their store is only a half an hour drive from here. The hook portion required 5 feet of material. This PSA stuff is 4" wide and is $2/foot. Also bought 3 different grits of the 3" wide loop paper. Their minimum purchase is 3 yards but at between $1.50 to $2.00 a yard it is reasonable. It took about 73" to wrap the drum but I think I can get it down to 72" and be able to get 2 applications from 4 yards.
> 
> ...


*Randy*- have to more careful how I phrase thing!!


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

lew said:


> *The Sandpaper *
> 
> It was finally time to add the sand paper to the drum. Having decided on a Velcro (hook and loop) system, it was off to Super Grit http://www.supergrit.com/ . Their store is only a half an hour drive from here. The hook portion required 5 feet of material. This PSA stuff is 4" wide and is $2/foot. Also bought 3 different grits of the 3" wide loop paper. Their minimum purchase is 3 yards but at between $1.50 to $2.00 a yard it is reasonable. It took about 73" to wrap the drum but I think I can get it down to 72" and be able to get 2 applications from 4 yards.
> 
> ...


yeah, there are children around


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

lew said:


> *The Sandpaper *
> 
> It was finally time to add the sand paper to the drum. Having decided on a Velcro (hook and loop) system, it was off to Super Grit http://www.supergrit.com/ . Their store is only a half an hour drive from here. The hook portion required 5 feet of material. This PSA stuff is 4" wide and is $2/foot. Also bought 3 different grits of the 3" wide loop paper. Their minimum purchase is 3 yards but at between $1.50 to $2.00 a yard it is reasonable. It took about 73" to wrap the drum but I think I can get it down to 72" and be able to get 2 applications from 4 yards.
> 
> ...


Lew:

I had to lock the leading edge of my conversion paper

Looking great.


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

lew said:


> *The Sandpaper *
> 
> It was finally time to add the sand paper to the drum. Having decided on a Velcro (hook and loop) system, it was off to Super Grit http://www.supergrit.com/ . Their store is only a half an hour drive from here. The hook portion required 5 feet of material. This PSA stuff is 4" wide and is $2/foot. Also bought 3 different grits of the 3" wide loop paper. Their minimum purchase is 3 yards but at between $1.50 to $2.00 a yard it is reasonable. It took about 73" to wrap the drum but I think I can get it down to 72" and be able to get 2 applications from 4 yards.
> 
> ...


*Karson*- Still trying to find a suitable "cork" to hold the paper in the recess.

Lew


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

*Some Refinements *

Most of the photos used for this blog were taken "along the way." As with everything made in my shop, there are always changes, modifications and "S**t! I should have…".

The first thing was when Mimi passed by and said, "it's nice but where are you going to put it"? Anyone who has been in the shop knows you need a road map and a course in choreography to get around all of the stuff crammed in there. OK, we are gonna need some wheels to move this thing out of the way.














































Only two wheels were needed, as the unit is not very heavy. Mounting them was simply a lag bolt and washer. A 16d nail through a hole in each one provides the locking mechanism to keep the wheels down when moving the unit. The wheels came from a salvaged skateboard. They were originally destined to become a lathe steady rest. (Note to self- find another skateboard for the steady rest.)



















Another change was the addition of a "handle" to the adjustment wheel. It is more of a visual indicator and lever than a handle. Turning the large knob, against the spring pressure, is a little difficult. The handle/lever adds a little more surface to grip and provides a better indication of how much the knob is turned.










The final modification is the paper end hold-downs. The original ones were small blocks of maple. A screw pulled the blocks into recesses cut in the wooden end caps of the drum. They work fine but the wood blocks seems to cut into the paper, almost tearing it. My thought is to replace the wood with another material. Something firm enough to hold the paper but yet soft enough to expand, from screw pressure, into the recess. Like one of those thermos stoppers with the lever. The material shown is a firm foam rubber block cut from a toy golf ball- still open for ideas here.










Didn't have to buy anything!! Love it!


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

lew said:


> *Some Refinements *
> 
> Most of the photos used for this blog were taken "along the way." As with everything made in my shop, there are always changes, modifications and "S**t! I should have…".
> 
> ...


Lew: I was wondering where you were going to put it, but I figured it might be in Mimi's kitchen or put Quigley bed cushions on the lower lever and take his spot.

I'm using the spring clamp on my drum to hold the paper.


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

lew said:


> *Some Refinements *
> 
> Most of the photos used for this blog were taken "along the way." As with everything made in my shop, there are always changes, modifications and "S**t! I should have…".
> 
> ...


*Karson*- It has come to the point that every time I add something, something else has to go!

Lew


----------



## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

lew said:


> *Some Refinements *
> 
> Most of the photos used for this blog were taken "along the way." As with everything made in my shop, there are always changes, modifications and "S**t! I should have…".
> 
> ...


I'm willing to take something off your hands!! I could use a good tablesaw.

Nice upgrades.
Do you plan on painting, staining & finishing or leaving it natural?


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

lew said:


> *Some Refinements *
> 
> Most of the photos used for this blog were taken "along the way." As with everything made in my shop, there are always changes, modifications and "S**t! I should have…".
> 
> ...


*Randy*- It looks like the exercise bike is going to go, Sorry! Going to leave it au natural

Lew


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

*Dust Collection And Finishing Up*

Better add some sort of dust collection to this thing before I do anymore testing!
This is what the finished "hood" looks like-




























Had the ½" plywood from another project. This is just a simple box. I wanted some way to hold it in place and be able to remove it without tools. Made two brackets from 1" aluminum angle "iron" to catch one side and some button magnets for the other side. Dust collection is a 2 ½" angled port that connects into the collection system.




























The box sits on the frame and slides into place. The hold down is a large head screw.




























Had to buy a few more magnets and the dust collection port.

Well, that's pretty much it! Thanks for wading through my ramblings. If you have any questions, suggestion, criticisms, or need information, just let me know. Also, if you know of some other neat sites for building these, please add them to the comments to help anyone else get some ideas.

Thanks,
Lew


----------



## crashn (Aug 26, 2011)

lew said:


> *Dust Collection And Finishing Up*
> 
> Better add some sort of dust collection to this thing before I do anymore testing!
> This is what the finished "hood" looks like-
> ...


any chance to see a video of it in operation? Neat build, have been drooling over the various sander projects that have been posted.


----------



## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

lew said:


> *Dust Collection And Finishing Up*
> 
> Better add some sort of dust collection to this thing before I do anymore testing!
> This is what the finished "hood" looks like-
> ...


Looks pretty good… I have to ask. Why a 2.5" port instead of 4" or even 6"? It would seem that you could be overwhelmed by dust with that small of a port…

Thank you so much for your thorough blog series on this build… This is a project I have attempted to start a couple of times, and flamed out badly as I had trouble figuring out several of the problems, okay honestly I got stuck trying to do a laminated all wood drum. BAD flame out there… You have given me plenty of inspiration to move forward with a PVC unit…

Is the 1/3 HP motor powerful enough? I am wanting to build mine a bit bigger to handle end grain cutting boards and the like, I want to go with a sanding width of at least 26". I see take out 1/2 and 3/4 HP motors being given away all the time around here.

What size smooth rod and pillow blocks did you use? Do you get excessive flex with the drum / rod?


----------



## fernandoindia (May 5, 2010)

lew said:


> *Dust Collection And Finishing Up*
> 
> Better add some sort of dust collection to this thing before I do anymore testing!
> This is what the finished "hood" looks like-
> ...


Well Lew, I don´t know if skate wheels will work, but for sure this blog is very well documented . Thank you again.

As to the end holdouts, I found myself in the same situation. Being worse since I did not put any velcro. AT the end I just reinforce the ends of the sanding paper by gluing some cloth. This allow more strengh. However any time at all, with almost no advice, the paper will be defeated. What a pitty.

Take care with the walking choreography in the W shop !!


----------



## Pimzedd (Jan 22, 2007)

lew said:


> *Dust Collection And Finishing Up*
> 
> Better add some sort of dust collection to this thing before I do anymore testing!
> This is what the finished "hood" looks like-
> ...


Nice blog Lew. I agree with the request for a video of it in operation. I am curious about how the material if feed into the sander.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

lew said:


> *Dust Collection And Finishing Up*
> 
> Better add some sort of dust collection to this thing before I do anymore testing!
> This is what the finished "hood" looks like-
> ...


Lew:

A great design and a nice build.

I'll have to take a road trip and see it in action.


----------



## BTimmons (Aug 6, 2011)

lew said:


> *Dust Collection And Finishing Up*
> 
> Better add some sort of dust collection to this thing before I do anymore testing!
> This is what the finished "hood" looks like-
> ...


This is a really great series. Thanks for sharing, I've marked this whole series as a favorite so I can build one sometime.


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

lew said:


> *Dust Collection And Finishing Up*
> 
> Better add some sort of dust collection to this thing before I do anymore testing!
> This is what the finished "hood" looks like-
> ...


*Crashn*- Thanks! I have very little experience with video posting. See what I can do.

*Bill*- Thanks! It uses manual feed. I need to make some sort of push block to safely handle the materials.

*DB*- Thanks! So far the dust collection works well but I haven't tried to sand anything over a few inches wide. If worse comes to worse, I can enlarge the hole and go to a 4" hose. My original purpose for this was to sand the thin inserts for my rolling pins. Being narrow, they don't bog down the motor so the 1/3 HP is doing fine. Probably end grain cutting boards or wide piece will be a different story. I originally had concerns about flexing, too. The 5/8" diameter steel axle and the extra internal supports so far have prevented it. Again it is only about 16" across. The pillow block have bearings for 5/8" shaft. Their overall size is 1 1/4" W x 5" L x 
2 1/4" H.

*Karson*- Thanks! You are welcome here anytime!

*Brian*- Thanks!

Lew


----------



## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

lew said:


> *Dust Collection And Finishing Up*
> 
> Better add some sort of dust collection to this thing before I do anymore testing!
> This is what the finished "hood" looks like-
> ...


Lew,

*Great blog series!!!*

I was following right behind your every entry. NO, not stalkin' you, just stalkin' your thickness sander!!!

You said the drum is not flexing. What about the table???

Ok, now go back to your new machine and start *MAKIN' DUST*!!!


----------



## buffalosean (Feb 15, 2009)

lew said:


> *Dust Collection And Finishing Up*
> 
> Better add some sort of dust collection to this thing before I do anymore testing!
> This is what the finished "hood" looks like-
> ...


you have more patience than me, i bought a used one. but this is pretty slick


----------



## jaykaypur (Oct 22, 2011)

lew said:


> *Dust Collection And Finishing Up*
> 
> Better add some sort of dust collection to this thing before I do anymore testing!
> This is what the finished "hood" looks like-
> ...


Simply amazing! I read the whole blog series and it was like reading a book…..I couldnt wait to get to the next chapter! This is a really well thought out and designed project. I'm just glad I took the time to follow along. It was an instructive "read."


----------



## buffalosean (Feb 15, 2009)

lew said:


> *Dust Collection And Finishing Up*
> 
> Better add some sort of dust collection to this thing before I do anymore testing!
> This is what the finished "hood" looks like-
> ...


hows the dust collection on this tool anyhow? my drum sander is terrible. I have to run my overhead air cleaner and a still have to wear a respirator.


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

lew said:


> *Dust Collection And Finishing Up*
> 
> Better add some sort of dust collection to this thing before I do anymore testing!
> This is what the finished "hood" looks like-
> ...


*Jay*- Thanks fro the kind words!

*Sean*- Thanks! I only added a dust collector to my shop about a year ago so anything I do now is an improvement. I really have nothing to compare it to. I can tell you that in the picture showing the run without the collector, you can see the dust it made. I cleaned everything up and reran the piece with the collector hooked up and there was very little dust on the table. As far as the really fine stuff in the air, not sure how much is there. I could run a bunch of walnut and then blow my nose- that's a pretty good indicator ;^)

Lew


----------



## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

lew said:


> *Dust Collection And Finishing Up*
> 
> Better add some sort of dust collection to this thing before I do anymore testing!
> This is what the finished "hood" looks like-
> ...


well this has been one fantastic build lew…i wish i could do a road trip and take you and karson out for lunch..where we could discuss the finer points of building one of these…or just eat …lol…thank you lew, taking all of these pictures and doing this blog was a lot of work, many will benefit…i wonder what this could do with a few modifications , and see her spit out some pizza pie…lol..now that would be something…grizz


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

lew said:


> *Dust Collection And Finishing Up*
> 
> Better add some sort of dust collection to this thing before I do anymore testing!
> This is what the finished "hood" looks like-
> ...


Grizz- I think some 4000 grit paper and hand turning the drum could produce a mighty fine pizza dough!


----------



## buffalosean (Feb 15, 2009)

lew said:


> *Dust Collection And Finishing Up*
> 
> Better add some sort of dust collection to this thing before I do anymore testing!
> This is what the finished "hood" looks like-
> ...


thats awesome lew,
i have to make up a new dust collection on mine. It spits a ton of duct up and enough dust is still on the boards after they are run through, that I have to brush the dust off with a bench brush.


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

lew said:


> *Dust Collection And Finishing Up*
> 
> Better add some sort of dust collection to this thing before I do anymore testing!
> This is what the finished "hood" looks like-
> ...


Sean-

Thanks! I may have to increase the port diameter. Haven't tried to sand anything very wide.

Lew


----------



## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

lew said:


> *Dust Collection And Finishing Up*
> 
> Better add some sort of dust collection to this thing before I do anymore testing!
> This is what the finished "hood" looks like-
> ...


Great write up Lew! Clearly described and well documented.


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

lew said:


> *Dust Collection And Finishing Up*
> 
> Better add some sort of dust collection to this thing before I do anymore testing!
> This is what the finished "hood" looks like-
> ...


Steve,

Thanks. Been using it all day today. So far so good but did find some things I could have done differently.

Lew


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

*In Operation And A Bit Of Reflecting*

Had a bunch of requests (OK, only two) to see the sander in operation. Here is a very short video of how it works. The sound is natural- the sander and the dust collector in operation. A little over 1/64" of material was being removed.






For the astute observer, you will notice the addition of the broom like door sweeps to both sides of the dust hood. It seems to work but I'm not sure how much more effective it is.

Also, the addition of the wheels up/down mechanism was completely unnecessary. After using the sander for several hours, old observant me noticed the wheels were locked in the down position. The sander had not budged, even a little. Oh, Well.

There is one more modification to make. The bracket that adjusts the table to be parallel with the drum is adjusted by loosening the nuts and shifting the bracket. More precise movement could be obtained by using adjusting screws. The idea is in my head, now to just get it to materialize. More on this when it happens.

Thanks everyone for all of the kind words and positive comments. They are truly appreciated.

Lew


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

lew said:


> *In Operation And A Bit Of Reflecting*
> 
> Had a bunch of requests (OK, only two) to see the sander in operation. Here is a very short video of how it works. The sound is natural- the sander and the dust collector in operation. A little over 1/64" of material was being removed.
> 
> ...


hey Lew, i always love to see the innovation of a person and especially a wood worker, making a machine that gets a job done that helps in your wood work is a great thing to me, saving money is a good thing always and especially in this economy, so two thumbs up and bravo for a job well done…grizz


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

lew said:


> *In Operation And A Bit Of Reflecting*
> 
> Had a bunch of requests (OK, only two) to see the sander in operation. Here is a very short video of how it works. The sound is natural- the sander and the dust collector in operation. A little over 1/64" of material was being removed.
> 
> ...


It looks like it works very well Lew. My mouth has been watering for one of these for a long time now, but I just don't have room for one.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

lew said:


> *In Operation And A Bit Of Reflecting*
> 
> Had a bunch of requests (OK, only two) to see the sander in operation. Here is a very short video of how it works. The sound is natural- the sander and the dust collector in operation. A little over 1/64" of material was being removed.
> 
> ...


looks like a fine sander. thnx for your posts. one o these days, I might attempt one


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

lew said:


> *In Operation And A Bit Of Reflecting*
> 
> Had a bunch of requests (OK, only two) to see the sander in operation. Here is a very short video of how it works. The sound is natural- the sander and the dust collector in operation. A little over 1/64" of material was being removed.
> 
> ...


Lew: Did you notice if there are divots in the wood because of you stopping to reset your hands.

Looks great.


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

lew said:


> *In Operation And A Bit Of Reflecting*
> 
> Had a bunch of requests (OK, only two) to see the sander in operation. Here is a very short video of how it works. The sound is natural- the sander and the dust collector in operation. A little over 1/64" of material was being removed.
> 
> ...


I have enough trouble going down to the store to buy a power tool, let alone make one…....(-:

Does sound all business like and powerful…............


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

lew said:


> *In Operation And A Bit Of Reflecting*
> 
> Had a bunch of requests (OK, only two) to see the sander in operation. Here is a very short video of how it works. The sound is natural- the sander and the dust collector in operation. A little over 1/64" of material was being removed.
> 
> ...


*Grizz*- Thanks! Couldn't justify paying for one if I could make it.

*Mike*- There was no room in my shop for a "bought" one, either. This is small enough it can be tucked away when not in use.

*Roger*- Thanks!

*Karson*- Yes, I have to be careful to keep the piece moving. It took some practice but I'm getting the hang of it. Maybe the divot is more pronounced because of the hook and loop system. I need to go back to Super Grit. Tore a piece of the paper last nite. Made a temporary patch by wrapping with electrical tape! I think I pushed a piece of stock, into the drum, too quickly.

*Jim*- so far it hasn't bogged down but I've been careful not to try and take off more than about 1/64" at a time.

Lew


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## Pimzedd (Jan 22, 2007)

lew said:


> *In Operation And A Bit Of Reflecting*
> 
> Had a bunch of requests (OK, only two) to see the sander in operation. Here is a very short video of how it works. The sound is natural- the sander and the dust collector in operation. A little over 1/64" of material was being removed.
> 
> ...


Thanks for adding the video Lew. I was curious about how it feeds. Looks like it feeds real easy.


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

lew said:


> *In Operation And A Bit Of Reflecting*
> 
> Had a bunch of requests (OK, only two) to see the sander in operation. Here is a very short video of how it works. The sound is natural- the sander and the dust collector in operation. A little over 1/64" of material was being removed.
> 
> ...


*Bill*- The manual feed is pretty easy. Just have to remember to keep the piece moving.


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