# Delta Unisaw



## KevinHuber (Jul 25, 2007)

*Cleaned up and trying to decide if I should keep it.*

I have decided to put all of this into a blog instead of the forums. Here is a link to the previous forums.

*Should I buy this Unisaw?* http://lumberjocks.com/topics/1877
*Unisaw Advice Needed?* http://lumberjocks.com/topics/1989

Well, I finally got pictures of it. I wish I had pictures from before working on it. I have spent a lot of time trying to clean up the cast iron top. I tried to get pictures that show what it looks like, but it is hard to capture.

I picked up a new tape for the Unifence today but haven't got it installed yet. 
I also have not had time to take the motor out and check it for vibration without the pulley on it. I will do this tomorrow. If the motor is the vibration problem, I do not know what I will do. I have about $600 in it right now.







I know the side table is not set up correctly, it is just temporarily set up to support the Unifence. Can someone show me how the table support legs and horizontal angles attach?

I'll keep you all updated on what happens with the saw. I hope that I can remove the vibration cheaply and then I'll keep the saw. If I have to get a new motor to remove the vibration, I may get rid of it. I don't know about adding another $350 in a motor. The saw runs and cuts fine, it just has more vibration than a Unisaw should have.

Thanks for the help so far, and I would appreciate anymore that you can offer.


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## Dorje (Jun 17, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *Cleaned up and trying to decide if I should keep it.*
> 
> I have decided to put all of this into a blog instead of the forums. Here is a link to the previous forums.
> 
> ...


Not sure where you've been with this thread (just looking at it for the first time)...so hope I'm not repeating things already discussed, but…if it is the motor, I would imagine it would be the bearings which you could replace , rather than buy a new motor. Also, ask around for a shop that has a good reputation for rebuilt motors. We're probably getting ahead of ourselves here though! Is there any play in the shaft of the motor? Are the pulley's straight, aligned with one another, and tight?


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## KevinHuber (Jul 25, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *Cleaned up and trying to decide if I should keep it.*
> 
> I have decided to put all of this into a blog instead of the forums. Here is a link to the previous forums.
> 
> ...


Dorje,

I have taken the belts off to eliminate the arbor and pulley alignment issue with no real change. Tomorrow I will take the pulley off the motor and see if maybe the pulley is bent. I never noticed any play in the shaft, but I am going to really take a hard look at the motor tomorrow. I'll run it out of the saw to isolate it completely.

Kevin


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## Dorje (Jun 17, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *Cleaned up and trying to decide if I should keep it.*
> 
> I have decided to put all of this into a blog instead of the forums. Here is a link to the previous forums.
> 
> ...


Sounds like a plan. Let us know how the motor sounds on its own. It's a good looking saw…I'm hoping it all works out for you. Don't see why it wouldn't!


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## Phishead (Jan 9, 2008)

KevinHuber said:


> *Cleaned up and trying to decide if I should keep it.*
> 
> I have decided to put all of this into a blog instead of the forums. Here is a link to the previous forums.
> 
> ...


I would say it's definately worth it. This is a good saw and it looks like it's in great shape.


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## Tangle (Jul 21, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *Cleaned up and trying to decide if I should keep it.*
> 
> I have decided to put all of this into a blog instead of the forums. Here is a link to the previous forums.
> 
> ...


It's a shame you're not closer, I'd give you your money back.


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## jcees (Dec 31, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *Cleaned up and trying to decide if I should keep it.*
> 
> I have decided to put all of this into a blog instead of the forums. Here is a link to the previous forums.
> 
> ...


I'd bank on the arbor bearings. The pulleys on a Unisaw are machined Ci so I doubt they're the problem. My Powermatic #66 vibrates a bit after I shut it down and I know it's about $150 fix to replace the arbor bearings. I won't do it though until it gets louder. HA! It could be motor bearings but you'd want to take that to a motor repair service for that fix. Unless of course you're adept and comfortable with breaking open a motor. I'm too ham fisted for that one. Too easy to screw up the armature and/or stator.

How about the blade? Sometimes the answer to a question is the simplest, ala Occam's Razor. Also, you didn't describe the belts; cracked, hard, ovoid, etc. That said, do you have any way to check for run-out? How about the motor mount flange bolts?

BTW, did the saw come with a manual? If not, you can download a .pdf of it from the Delta site. Good luck.

I also, noticed that you're missing the right wing and tableboard. Do you plan on replacing them? I would and as previously mentioned, do you want your money back?

always,
J.C.


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## KevinHuber (Jul 25, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *Cleaned up and trying to decide if I should keep it.*
> 
> I have decided to put all of this into a blog instead of the forums. Here is a link to the previous forums.
> 
> ...


jcees,

I have already ran through the normal tests and isolated the problem. I have removed the belts from the saw so the only thing spinning is the motor itself.

I have rebuilt a couple electric motors in the past, but I don't think I'll play with this one.


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## Dorje (Jun 17, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *Cleaned up and trying to decide if I should keep it.*
> 
> I have decided to put all of this into a blog instead of the forums. Here is a link to the previous forums.
> 
> ...


What did you find out today? Sounds like your saying it IS the motor…

details…


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## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *Cleaned up and trying to decide if I should keep it.*
> 
> I have decided to put all of this into a blog instead of the forums. Here is a link to the previous forums.
> 
> ...


I'm with Dorje. Details..

Did you remove the pully, and you are still getting vibration?

If it is the motor, then it would be worth it to have it fixed. You got a great deal on the saw.
Plus you got those dust collectors.


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## rikkor (Oct 17, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *Cleaned up and trying to decide if I should keep it.*
> 
> I have decided to put all of this into a blog instead of the forums. Here is a link to the previous forums.
> 
> ...


The top looks great, and you said it was awful at the start. How did you get it so nice? Steel wool?


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## KevinHuber (Jul 25, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *Cleaned up and trying to decide if I should keep it.*
> 
> I have decided to put all of this into a blog instead of the forums. Here is a link to the previous forums.
> 
> ...


Sorry guys, I was unable to try again on Sunday. Had a "couple" honey-dos that needed to be finished first and they ended up taking the whole day plus part of the night. But, she is happy again and I will be playing with it tonight I hope. I am planning on attending my first Sunflower Woodworkers Guild meeting tonight. I recently found out about these guys and this is the first chance I'll have to go. I'm excited.

I am also spending my evenings this week creating a list of items to get for the shop. I am heading to Kansas City for the Woodworking show and knowing me I'll end up buying a few things. Anyone else going? http://www.thewoodworkingshows.com/kansascity.asp


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## KevinHuber (Jul 25, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *Cleaned up and trying to decide if I should keep it.*
> 
> I have decided to put all of this into a blog instead of the forums. Here is a link to the previous forums.
> 
> ...


rikkor,

The top only looks that good because the picture doesn't show it well. The stop is shiny and slick, so I think it will be fine. It looks like the guy used this for his workbench or assembly table. There was glue all over everything along with paint and stain. There was a fair amount of rust on the table.

I will tell you how I got it off, but I do not want to hear about how wrong is was for me to do this. I know it was a bad idea, but I was getting desperate. I used sanders on it. I know I know. I was very careful and went over every spot the same amount, stopping to check with a straight edge to be sure I was keeping it flat. I cannot see any negetive results from this method, I was just scared sh#$less the whole time that I'd mess it up. It still needs to be hit with a finer grit to remove some light scratches, but it looks much better now. I wish I had pics before I started to show you why I took the chance.


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## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *Cleaned up and trying to decide if I should keep it.*
> 
> I have decided to put all of this into a blog instead of the forums. Here is a link to the previous forums.
> 
> ...


Kevin - Navel jelly (auto parts store) will remove rust and just about anything else off of steel. Just apply a thick layer and wait about 15 minutes. Then use a scrubbing pad like for doing pots and pans, so loosen everything up.

Clean it up and you're done. You can use a random orbit sander with a real fine grit like 320+ to shine
it up to look better than new. As long as you keep up on waxing it, it will stay like that forever.


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## KevinHuber (Jul 25, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *Cleaned up and trying to decide if I should keep it.*
> 
> I have decided to put all of this into a blog instead of the forums. Here is a link to the previous forums.
> 
> ...


GaryK,

Thats is funny that you say that. My wife and I were in Lowes this weekend getting some Epoxy and I saw the Naval Jelly bottle. We both had a good laugh at the name. Guess I should have bought some instead of just laughing at it.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

KevinHuber said:


> *Cleaned up and trying to decide if I should keep it.*
> 
> I have decided to put all of this into a blog instead of the forums. Here is a link to the previous forums.
> 
> ...


Kevin thats a nice saw.


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## KevinHuber (Jul 25, 2007)

*Got lucky with the motor.*

I took the pulley off of the motor tonight and success!!!

I tried the nickel test and I would just like to say that the nickel test is worthless. My nickel stood up even before I took the pulley off and you could see the saw vibrating.

Now the same test with a dime is very accurate. I could stand a dime on end and start, run, and shut off the saw without it falling over. That is impressive.

The Ridgid ran with the nickel easy enough, but the dime would fall over when starting or stopping.

So, my motor is OK, I just need to get a new pulley for it. I went to the Sunflower Woodworkers Guild tonight and am now a member. These gathers of the minds are great for a beginner like me. I was told by a couple people that the cast iron pulleys that came with the saw are junk and that I should get a turned steel pulley.

What do you all suggest for pulleys? What about belts for the Unisaw. Should I get a new match set or should I use Link Belts? Do they make a Link Belt for this saw and if so, does it require a special pulley?

Thank you for all of the great advice.


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## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *Got lucky with the motor.*
> 
> I took the pulley off of the motor tonight and success!!!
> 
> ...


So I was right about the pully! Well you get lucky sometimes.

That's good news. A pully is cheap!

Link belts would be best as far as vibration goes. I think that it's a standard 1/2 belt wich is a 
direct replacement so it uses the same pully. Get a turned one.


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## Dorje (Jun 17, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *Got lucky with the motor.*
> 
> I took the pulley off of the motor tonight and success!!!
> 
> ...


Phew!


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## rikkor (Oct 17, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *Got lucky with the motor.*
> 
> I took the pulley off of the motor tonight and success!!!
> 
> ...


Good deal!!!


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *Got lucky with the motor.*
> 
> I took the pulley off of the motor tonight and success!!!
> 
> ...


One source for the linked belt and pulleys is In-Line industries. They have these available as kits. The linked belt will definitely reduce the saw's vibration.


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## KevinHuber (Jul 25, 2007)

*Not so lucky with the age of the saw*

I have been suspecting that the guy I bought my saw from did not really know how old it was. The saw was his father-in-laws and he got it when his father-in-law passed away. He said that he knows the dust collector was bought less than two years ago and he thought the saw was bought at the same time. If so, then it wasn't bought new.

I was afraid the saw was older because of the condition of the table top & fence and the fact that the motor cover was metal and not plastic. Once I got inside the machine, I dismissed my fears because of how unbelievable clean and rust free the saw was.

Well, I finally sent the serial number to Delta and found out that the saw is in fact an older model. It was produced in 1998.

Not as good of a deal as if it was a 2005, but I am still happy with it.


 Planning on getting new pulleys this weekend and some link belt (maybe from the KC Woodworkers Show).
 I am also thinking about getting a Wixey digital saw fence readout. Do you all think this is a worthwhile investment? ($99 from Woodcraft with Wixey angle guage - I already have one Wixey angle guage though)
 I am thinking about investing the $100 in a Un-T-Fence as well.
Has anyone used them? Suggestions?


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## CutNRun (Nov 14, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *Not so lucky with the age of the saw*
> 
> I have been suspecting that the guy I bought my saw from did not really know how old it was. The saw was his father-in-laws and he got it when his father-in-law passed away. He said that he knows the dust collector was bought less than two years ago and he thought the saw was bought at the same time. If so, then it wasn't bought new.
> 
> ...


I don't have a comment on the saw, but had to offer congratulations to the Cats for upsetting the Jayhawks last night. First time in 24 years?! I grew up about 120 miles west of Manhattan and naturally cheered for the Wildcats over the Jayhawks. For many years, any victory (in football) was an occaision for a celebration.

On a wood related note - enjoy that table saw.


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## KevinHuber (Jul 25, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *Not so lucky with the age of the saw*
> 
> I have been suspecting that the guy I bought my saw from did not really know how old it was. The saw was his father-in-laws and he got it when his father-in-law passed away. He said that he knows the dust collector was bought less than two years ago and he thought the saw was bought at the same time. If so, then it wasn't bought new.
> 
> ...


Always love hearing from another Cat fan. It was a great game between two really good teams.


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## KevinHuber (Jul 25, 2007)

*More motor/pulley issues*

I finally got around to checking on getting new pulleys. The guy at the electric motor shop told me to have them balanced instead. So I went to a machine shop and had them balance the pulleys. When I got home, I tried the saw - no pulley and it worked fine. Put the pulley on the motor and vibrating badly again. At this point I was a little ticked that the balancing didn't work. So I decided I'd take the motor off and take it and the pulley to the motor shop and get their opinion. I thought, no, try it one more time.

So I did and errrrrr. The motor will not run now. So I took it off and got it to the shop yesterday. They said just a starter of starting capacitor probably (Yeah I quessed right). They are going to keep the motor and run though it. New bearing and new capacitors. Should have it back next week and the Saga will continue.

If I had know how big of a pain in the "you know what" this Unisaw was going to be I'd a never bought it.

Oh who am I kidding. I would have still bought it. Just venting a little I guess. By the time I get done I'll have close to $700 in it and it'll be like new. I guess that is still pretty good really.


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## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *More motor/pulley issues*
> 
> I finally got around to checking on getting new pulleys. The guy at the electric motor shop told me to have them balanced instead. So I went to a machine shop and had them balance the pulleys. When I got home, I tried the saw - no pulley and it worked fine. Put the pulley on the motor and vibrating badly again. At this point I was a little ticked that the balancing didn't work. So I decided I'd take the motor off and take it and the pulley to the motor shop and get their opinion. I thought, no, try it one more time.
> 
> ...


Pretty good I'd say. I paid almost twice as much and I got a killer deal!


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *More motor/pulley issues*
> 
> I finally got around to checking on getting new pulleys. The guy at the electric motor shop told me to have them balanced instead. So I went to a machine shop and had them balance the pulleys. When I got home, I tried the saw - no pulley and it worked fine. Put the pulley on the motor and vibrating badly again. At this point I was a little ticked that the balancing didn't work. So I decided I'd take the motor off and take it and the pulley to the motor shop and get their opinion. I thought, no, try it one more time.
> 
> ...


Ditto Gary's comments. This is one of the annoyances we get when buying tools. Things like this happen on new tools as well but the warranty that comes with them makes it easier to handle. If you can get it up and running for this price you have a bargain.

Keep us posted on how it is coming along.


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## sandhill (Aug 28, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *More motor/pulley issues*
> 
> I finally got around to checking on getting new pulleys. The guy at the electric motor shop told me to have them balanced instead. So I went to a machine shop and had them balance the pulleys. When I got home, I tried the saw - no pulley and it worked fine. Put the pulley on the motor and vibrating badly again. At this point I was a little ticked that the balancing didn't work. So I decided I'd take the motor off and take it and the pulley to the motor shop and get their opinion. I thought, no, try it one more time.
> 
> ...


Kevin before you fix itthink about replacing it if the cost is only a few hundred more. but 700 dollers is good, I think I paid 2300 for mine with a 54" fence. so your still doing good.


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## Dorje (Jun 17, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *More motor/pulley issues*
> 
> I finally got around to checking on getting new pulleys. The guy at the electric motor shop told me to have them balanced instead. So I went to a machine shop and had them balance the pulleys. When I got home, I tried the saw - no pulley and it worked fine. Put the pulley on the motor and vibrating badly again. At this point I was a little ticked that the balancing didn't work. So I decided I'd take the motor off and take it and the pulley to the motor shop and get their opinion. I thought, no, try it one more time.
> 
> ...


I'll keep my fingers crossed!


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## Woodchuck1957 (Feb 4, 2008)

KevinHuber said:


> *More motor/pulley issues*
> 
> I finally got around to checking on getting new pulleys. The guy at the electric motor shop told me to have them balanced instead. So I went to a machine shop and had them balance the pulleys. When I got home, I tried the saw - no pulley and it worked fine. Put the pulley on the motor and vibrating badly again. At this point I was a little ticked that the balancing didn't work. So I decided I'd take the motor off and take it and the pulley to the motor shop and get their opinion. I thought, no, try it one more time.
> 
> ...


I know I'm a little late in the game here but I'll post it anyway. I had a friend that bought a new Powermatic Contractors table saw a few years ago. He called me up one day shortly after purchaseing it complaining about the saw vibrateing and was wondering if I had any ideas as to what it could be. At the time the new thing for Contractors saws was machined pulleys and the link belt. Confident that this would fix his problem I went over to his shop to help him take the pulleys off his new saw. Well, that didn't go so good, we couldn't get the pulley off of the arbor and basically destroyered the pulley in the process. Now I felt really bad for messing up his new saw and now he had to load it up and take it back to the stores service dept. to get the pulley off and replaced. So while thinking about all this I asked him, did you ever read the owners manual ? Does it say anything in there about vibration ? He says, no I never looked at the manual at all, it's still in the bag. I said, could you please get it ? I'd like to take a look at it. Well sure enough, there was trhe answer. Powermatic says in the manual that if there is any excessive vibration to check the locking knob for the tilt hand wheel. It must be locked. Just a hunch, but maybe this is the cause of your vibration problem Kevin. I thought maybe it would be worth mentioning. From now on when people ask me about a problem with a piece of equipment the first thing I ask them is, did you read the manual ?


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## KevinHuber (Jul 25, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *More motor/pulley issues*
> 
> I finally got around to checking on getting new pulleys. The guy at the electric motor shop told me to have them balanced instead. So I went to a machine shop and had them balance the pulleys. When I got home, I tried the saw - no pulley and it worked fine. Put the pulley on the motor and vibrating badly again. At this point I was a little ticked that the balancing didn't work. So I decided I'd take the motor off and take it and the pulley to the motor shop and get their opinion. I thought, no, try it one more time.
> 
> ...


Woodchuck you are right. You should check the manual first. Luckily I have screwed things up in the past by not checking, so this time I did check. I have gone through all the steps to narrow the problem down to the pulley which is most likely or possibly the motor.


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## KevinHuber (Jul 25, 2007)

*Motor update*

I ended up having to get the motor worked on. Would have done it myself it I had known it was going to cost me $200. Well, new bearing, new insulation, and a good cleaning.

Now it runs just great.

*But*, the saw still vibrates too much.

The only thing I can think of to do now is to pull the rotor out of the motor and have it and the pulley balanced together.

Anyone have any other good ideas?


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## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *Motor update*
> 
> I ended up having to get the motor worked on. Would have done it myself it I had known it was going to cost me $200. Well, new bearing, new insulation, and a good cleaning.
> 
> ...


What do you call too much vibration?

Jerks on startup? Vibrates too much while running?

If you put a half filled glass of water on your saws table does it slosh out?


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## Copperjock (Jan 1, 2008)

KevinHuber said:


> *Motor update*
> 
> I ended up having to get the motor worked on. Would have done it myself it I had known it was going to cost me $200. Well, new bearing, new insulation, and a good cleaning.
> 
> ...


"The only thing I can think of to do now is to pull the rotor out of the motor and have it and the pulley balanced together."

I've never been blessed (or cursed) with a unisaw, and maybe I'm misunderstanding, but can't the entire motor and pulley be balanced as a unit? The rotor, being the center rotating part of the motor, would seem impractical to me to pull separately.

BTW, sure seems like the balancing by the machinist should have squared it away already. Maybe one of those steel pulleys is the way to go.


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## tenontim (Feb 24, 2008)

KevinHuber said:


> *Motor update*
> 
> I ended up having to get the motor worked on. Would have done it myself it I had known it was going to cost me $200. Well, new bearing, new insulation, and a good cleaning.
> 
> ...


Kevin, try taking the belts off the motor, then turning it on. If the vibration is coming from the motor you will still have the vibration. If not then it's your belts or arbor that needs the work. The link belts will cut down on your vibration some.


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## Chipncut (Aug 18, 2006)

KevinHuber said:


> *Motor update*
> 
> I ended up having to get the motor worked on. Would have done it myself it I had known it was going to cost me $200. Well, new bearing, new insulation, and a good cleaning.
> 
> ...


There's a possibility you may have a bent shaft, so when you add the pulley,

the weight of the pulley amplifies the vibration..

You can check this out with a dial indicator, if you have one.

Otherwise, you can also just view it while turning it by hand.


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## KevinHuber (Jul 25, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *Motor update*
> 
> I ended up having to get the motor worked on. Would have done it myself it I had known it was going to cost me $200. Well, new bearing, new insulation, and a good cleaning.
> 
> ...


Tim, this is all happening with the belts removed.

Dick, I hope you are wrong because that sounds expensive. I couldn't tell any movement by looking at the shaft. I may try the dial indicator tonight just in case.

Copperjock, it has a cast iron pulley on it now. The machinist would need the rotor and pulley seperate from the motor to put t into his machine.

GaryK, I don't know, maybe I am being too picky. I have always heard that Unisaws shouldn't vibrate much at all. I can stand a dime on the cast iron top and it will not fall over through starting, running, and stopping the motor. With the pulley on it, a nickle will not stand. I can get a nickle to stand on my Ridgid contractors saw even. I may have to try to get a video of it and that might help.


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## tenontim (Feb 24, 2008)

KevinHuber said:


> *Motor update*
> 
> I ended up having to get the motor worked on. Would have done it myself it I had known it was going to cost me $200. Well, new bearing, new insulation, and a good cleaning.
> 
> ...


I think you've about got it narrowed down, Kevin. Check it with the dial indicator and if its good, toss the pulley.


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## Chipncut (Aug 18, 2006)

KevinHuber said:


> *Motor update*
> 
> I ended up having to get the motor worked on. Would have done it myself it I had known it was going to cost me $200. Well, new bearing, new insulation, and a good cleaning.
> 
> ...


Did you ever check your blade, it could be out of balance.

Sorry! forget about it I just re-read your last answer.


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## KevinHuber (Jul 25, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *Motor update*
> 
> I ended up having to get the motor worked on. Would have done it myself it I had known it was going to cost me $200. Well, new bearing, new insulation, and a good cleaning.
> 
> ...


I just got off the phone with the machinist. He said to pull the rotor and bring it and the pulley in and he'd balance them together.

I think I'll go ahead and bring the arbor and that pulley in at the same time just to be sure.


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## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *Motor update*
> 
> I ended up having to get the motor worked on. Would have done it myself it I had known it was going to cost me $200. Well, new bearing, new insulation, and a good cleaning.
> 
> ...


For some reason this sounds like it's getting a lot more complicated that it should be.


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## KevinHuber (Jul 25, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *Motor update*
> 
> I ended up having to get the motor worked on. Would have done it myself it I had known it was going to cost me $200. Well, new bearing, new insulation, and a good cleaning.
> 
> ...


I agree completely. More complicated and more expensive than I would have guessed.


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## KevinHuber (Jul 25, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *Motor update*
> 
> I ended up having to get the motor worked on. Would have done it myself it I had known it was going to cost me $200. Well, new bearing, new insulation, and a good cleaning.
> 
> ...


Just think all I wanted to do was put new belts on it to start with.

I would have bought new pulleys, but I never found any for a Unisaw. I found plenty of the single pulleys for a contractor type saw, but no steel pulleys for a three belt Unisaw.


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## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *Motor update*
> 
> I ended up having to get the motor worked on. Would have done it myself it I had known it was going to cost me $200. Well, new bearing, new insulation, and a good cleaning.
> 
> ...


Have you called Delta?


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## BroDave (Dec 16, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *Motor update*
> 
> I ended up having to get the motor worked on. Would have done it myself it I had known it was going to cost me $200. Well, new bearing, new insulation, and a good cleaning.
> 
> ...


I would carry the pulley to an electric motor shop and let them sell me a new one. I have never seen a motor that had to have the stator balanced that didn't wear out bearings every week, regular use mind you.

A pulley is easily warped or worn by heat which usually goes back to a belt issue, loose, too tight, worn, sized wrong, ect. If the pulley is worn then you may as well replace all of them as they will have problems also.
Just out of curiosity, why is a machinist working on your electric motor? Seems to be the wrong trade no matter which end he is grinding on.


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## KevinHuber (Jul 25, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *Motor update*
> 
> I ended up having to get the motor worked on. Would have done it myself it I had known it was going to cost me $200. Well, new bearing, new insulation, and a good cleaning.
> 
> ...


I did contact Delta and went to the local Delta store. They both claim to have very little problems with their cast iron pulleys. They were willing to order new pulley for me. I thought I'd try this electric motor store in town first because a few of the guys in our local woodworkers guild recommended them.

The electric motor store told me they also could order me new pulleys but that they usually sent them to this local machine shop to get balanced instead. It would be cheaper since my pulleys show no sign of wear.

In talking with the electric motor shop and the machinist they both thought I should take the pulley and shaft to the machinist together and he could balance the pulley to the motor.

I don't know what I should do. I have had a lot of suggestions by different parties.


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## KevinHuber (Jul 25, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *Motor update*
> 
> I ended up having to get the motor worked on. Would have done it myself it I had known it was going to cost me $200. Well, new bearing, new insulation, and a good cleaning.
> 
> ...


Just to make this clear to everyone that might be jumping on late I'll update you.

The problem has been narrowed down to the motor and motor pulley. All belts, arbors, blades, mounting brackets, ... have all been checked and removed from the issue as of right now.

The saw has virtually ZERO vibration in it when the motor is running with the pulley removed.
The saw vibrates much more than it should when the pulley is on the motor. 
The motor has brand new bearings in it. It made no change in vibration.
The pulley was balanced at a machine shop. There is no difference in vibration.

The machine shop and electric motor shop have suggested that I remove the rotor and bring it along with the pulley and key back to the machinist so that he can balance the pulley on the rotor. There maybe a difference between my rotor and his shaft that he balanced the pulley on.

If I can figure out how, I will post a video tonight of the saw running with the pulley and without so you can see what I am talking about.

Thanks for the continuing help on this. Eventually we will get it licked I bet.

Why haven't i just bought a new pulley already? I don't know if it will help or not and I've already invested a lot of time and money into this one.


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## KevinHuber (Jul 25, 2007)

*Video of it running with/without pulley on*

Well I have both a video of the saw with the pulley installed and a video with the pulley pulled off.

It doesn't show as much in the video as I hoped it would. You can barely see the throat plate moving across the saw with the pulley on. I can assure that it is much worse than the video shows. The biggest difference you notice while standing near it is the sound change from with a pulley to without. I don't know if the video picks that up or not.

Oh well, I guess it was worth a try. If nothing else I can practice posting a video.

*Saw with pulley attached to motor. (no belts installed)*

http://i92.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid92.photobucket.com/albums/l7/ksukevin/Unisawwithpulleyon.flv

*Saw with no pulley on motor.*

http://i92.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid92.photobucket.com/albums/l7/ksukevin/Unisawwithoutpulley.flv

*Thoughts?*


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## Woodchuck1957 (Feb 4, 2008)

KevinHuber said:


> *Video of it running with/without pulley on*
> 
> Well I have both a video of the saw with the pulley installed and a video with the pulley pulled off.
> 
> ...


Why are there no belts installed ? Did you have the pulley ballanced ? I think you had mentioned earlier that you were going to. You did replace the bearings right ?


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## KevinHuber (Jul 25, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *Video of it running with/without pulley on*
> 
> Well I have both a video of the saw with the pulley installed and a video with the pulley pulled off.
> 
> ...


Belts are not on yet because the saw still vibrates with just the motor and pulley in it. I can't really check the arbor for vibration until I solve the motor/pulley vibration.

Pulley was balanced and I did have the motor bearings replaced. After all of that, there is no change in the amount of vibration.

The electric motor repair shop and the machinist that balanced the pulley have both suggested that I pull the rotor out of the motor and bring it along with the pulley and key to the machinist to see if he can get them balanced together. Maybe the shaft he balanced the pulley on and my rotor are not balanced the same.

Anyone else have a better idea than that? Or can think of something other than the pulley/rotot being out of balance that would cause the vibration?

Or, am I just being too picky and I need to just use the darn thing?


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## Woodchuck1957 (Feb 4, 2008)

KevinHuber said:


> *Video of it running with/without pulley on*
> 
> Well I have both a video of the saw with the pulley installed and a video with the pulley pulled off.
> 
> ...


Not that I have any experience with a Unisaw but, shouldn't the electrical motor shop have made sure the motor was balanced before sending it out the door ? If the pulley is balanced I would doubt that it's the pulley. I'd try it with the belts on it, maybe that will take care of it. What do you have to lose ? When I asked about if you had the bearings replaced, I meant the arbor bearings. I would still try the belts first before throwing more money at it. Hopefully the belts you have look good and are a matched set.


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

KevinHuber said:


> *Video of it running with/without pulley on*
> 
> Well I have both a video of the saw with the pulley installed and a video with the pulley pulled off.
> 
> ...


Is it possible that the machine shop *balanced* the pully but not have checked it for *roundness*? A pully could be balanced for weight- like balancing a lawn mower blade- but if the pully is not a true circle it would create a vibration when running.

Just a thought.

Lew


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## northwoodsman (Feb 22, 2008)

KevinHuber said:


> *Video of it running with/without pulley on*
> 
> Well I have both a video of the saw with the pulley installed and a video with the pulley pulled off.
> 
> ...


Does the motor run smoothly by itself sitting on a table or bench or floor without the pulley? If it does, add the pulley and try it. If it still runs smooth, the perhaps your motor mounts, either on the saw or on the motor itself are bent, and when the bolts are tighten the motor is "tweaked". You may have a bent or cracked motor mount. If it runs smooth without the pulley, is there a square key or bolt that is throwing it out of whack? Can you borrow a motor to test it out and to isolate the problem further?


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## KevinHuber (Jul 25, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *Video of it running with/without pulley on*
> 
> Well I have both a video of the saw with the pulley installed and a video with the pulley pulled off.
> 
> ...


Lew, I never thought of the pulley being out of round. That is a good point.

NorthWoodsMan, The motor runs smooth while mounted to the saw until the pulley is mounted. I would think that would mean it wasn't the motor mounts. What do you think?

I haven't been able to find another motor with a 3/4" shaft to try the pulley on.


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## KevinHuber (Jul 25, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *Video of it running with/without pulley on*
> 
> Well I have both a video of the saw with the pulley installed and a video with the pulley pulled off.
> 
> ...


It sounds like I may be better off buying a new pulley and trying that route after all.

*What kind of pulley do you guys suggest/use on your Unisaw? Cast Iron or Steel.*


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## tenontim (Feb 24, 2008)

KevinHuber said:


> *Video of it running with/without pulley on*
> 
> Well I have both a video of the saw with the pulley installed and a video with the pulley pulled off.
> 
> ...


Kevin, the only other thing that I can think of- is the pulley actually tight on the shaft when you tighten the set screw? I checked at the site where I buy my Delta parts and the pulley is not available on line from them. I know I've seen places that sell after market pulleys, I'll have to research it tomorrow. good luck.


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## KevinHuber (Jul 25, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *Video of it running with/without pulley on*
> 
> Well I have both a video of the saw with the pulley installed and a video with the pulley pulled off.
> 
> ...


The pulley is tight. Atleast I cannot move it back and forth any.


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## BroDave (Dec 16, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *Video of it running with/without pulley on*
> 
> Well I have both a video of the saw with the pulley installed and a video with the pulley pulled off.
> 
> ...


I believe you making the right choice with a new pulley Kevin. Always go with steel over cast iron.
If one is available I suggest using a Browning pulley. They are top notch, factory balanced and true.

As an after thought, if your rotor and pulley are balanced together then you will have to replace both if either dies on you. Of course that may never happen but electrical equipment has a thing for burning out.
I never liked cast iron pulleys simply because they are cast. There will always be an "air" pocket somewhere in it.


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## KevinHuber (Jul 25, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *Video of it running with/without pulley on*
> 
> Well I have both a video of the saw with the pulley installed and a video with the pulley pulled off.
> 
> ...


BroDave,

You hit the nail on the head with that one. My fear in balancing them both together was that if something happened to either I'd have to replace both.

Can anyone tell me where to order a steel pulley?

The local motor shop doesn't seem to be able to or doesn't want to. He tels me that the cast iron is the way to go. Also the local Delta shop says the same thing.


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

KevinHuber said:


> *Video of it running with/without pulley on*
> 
> Well I have both a video of the saw with the pulley installed and a video with the pulley pulled off.
> 
> ...


Kevin,

Here are a couple of web sites that may help you locate a pulley-

http://www.thomasnet.com/products/vbelt-pulleys-63910806-1.html

http://www.sdp-si.com/eStore/CoverPg/Pulleys.htm?wcw=google&gclid=CPDS3rSzhZICFQWnlgodcQcw_A

The first one has a list of companies that supply pulleys and the second is a specific manufacturer.

Hope this helps,

Lew


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## BroDave (Dec 16, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *Video of it running with/without pulley on*
> 
> Well I have both a video of the saw with the pulley installed and a video with the pulley pulled off.
> 
> ...


If you have a W.W. Grainger local you may find exactly what you need.
I wouldn't go without pulley and tape measure in hand though, just saying…


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## KevinHuber (Jul 25, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *Video of it running with/without pulley on*
> 
> Well I have both a video of the saw with the pulley installed and a video with the pulley pulled off.
> 
> ...


I have looked though Grainger's online catalog with now luck. Same thing for Thomas net and a few of the others Lew mentioned.

I can find cast iron pulleys, but am still having a hard time finding a steel pulley.

Has anyone ever actually bought one for their saw? Where? How much?


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## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *Video of it running with/without pulley on*
> 
> Well I have both a video of the saw with the pulley installed and a video with the pulley pulled off.
> 
> ...


I couldn't find a steel pully but the OEM ones have been used for over 50 years.

The OEM part number for the pully is 41-644.

Ordering directly from Delta will save you a big $2.00

Here is the complete parts list for your saw:

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/delta-36812-type-table-saw-parts-c-3275_3334_3440.html?osCsid=cab09f434de3209956caa4158b468ee5


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## Woodchuck1957 (Feb 4, 2008)

KevinHuber said:


> *Video of it running with/without pulley on*
> 
> Well I have both a video of the saw with the pulley installed and a video with the pulley pulled off.
> 
> ...


1939 Units had pot metal triple belts pulleys. Units with 1750 RPM motors had 5.25" diameter drive pulleys which were also pot metal.

19XX units changed to steel machined arbor pulleys. 3450 Motors had smaller 3.25" diameter pulleys that were machined from solid steel. You still haven't tried it with the belts on it yet ? They tell you to try it with the belts on and no blade.


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## KevinHuber (Jul 25, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *Video of it running with/without pulley on*
> 
> Well I have both a video of the saw with the pulley installed and a video with the pulley pulled off.
> 
> ...


Mine is a 3.25" cast iron pulley on a 3450 motor.


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## KevinHuber (Jul 25, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *Video of it running with/without pulley on*
> 
> Well I have both a video of the saw with the pulley installed and a video with the pulley pulled off.
> 
> ...


Gary,

Thanks for the website. If I cannot find a steel one, I'll order a new OEM one.

That is going to be a helpful website for a few other tools I have.


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## KevinHuber (Jul 25, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *Video of it running with/without pulley on*
> 
> Well I have both a video of the saw with the pulley installed and a video with the pulley pulled off.
> 
> ...


Well Woodchuck, I finally got home from work. Man, working all day sure does take a lot of valuable time away from the shop. I told my wife I'm about ready to retire and spend the rest of my days "playing" in the shop. She informed me that I am only 27 and probably should work a few more years. Dang her and her good sense.

Anyways I got home and put the entire saw back together, along with the new belts I had picked up last week. The saw definitely does not vibrate as much as when I started this whole mess.

I think I am going to call it good for now and if I get bored later on I'll spend the extra cash on new pulleys and arbor.

I want to thank everyone for their help and suggestions on this. I will be continuing this blog with my side and outfeed tables as soon as I get a chance to start them.


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## KevinHuber (Jul 25, 2007)

KevinHuber said:


> *Video of it running with/without pulley on*
> 
> Well I have both a video of the saw with the pulley installed and a video with the pulley pulled off.
> 
> ...


Thank you all again it is really wonderful having a group of knowledgeable guys I can bounce ideas off of. I've never met most of you but consider all whom I've dealt with a friend.


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## Woodchuck1957 (Feb 4, 2008)

KevinHuber said:


> *Video of it running with/without pulley on*
> 
> Well I have both a video of the saw with the pulley installed and a video with the pulley pulled off.
> 
> ...


Kevin thats really great to hear. I hated to see you throw more money at it if you didn't have too.


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