# Hand Plane Jointer Fence - Shop Made



## Sigung (Nov 20, 2013)

This is my shop made hand plane jointer fence. It's made from 4 1/8" thicknesses of aluminum. What you see it attached to here is a Stanley No. 4, so the fence is 8 1/4" long. It's held on the side of the plane with N-52 neodymium magnets, but I will be adding two more magnets to get a little extra holding power as it is just adequate right now. Also will be adding some UHMW slick tape over the part that runs along the side of the wood.




























Updated pics with the additional magnets, and the slick tape










Attached to the No. 9 1/2 block plane










On 1/4" Spanish Cedar


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## DocBailey (Dec 9, 2011)

It's certainly nicely executed, but are you really jointing with a no. 4?


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## Sigung (Nov 20, 2013)

DocBailey: I used the name jointer fence because that is the popular name for this device in the tool catalogs, if it helps you, you can just call it a fence. This what I joint with…


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## DocBailey (Dec 9, 2011)

OK - that's good
But I guess my question is why a fence at all for a plane made to smooth panels?


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## TheGermanJoiner (Dec 1, 2013)

That's a pretty sweet idea. Nice execution on that. I love working with metal too


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## Sigung (Nov 20, 2013)

RE: Vertigo, Thanks! It was a lot of work and frustration getting it right, but it works very well, like a portable shooting board. I love your drill press setup, very impressive.


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## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

Gonna ask the same question, why a fence on a #4. I use a fence on a 6,7,8 to join









A 4 and 4 1/2 are intended primarily as smoothers, as a joiner they would not do the job since the sole is short.


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## RB61 (Nov 30, 2012)

I used a fence on my #4 for a long time. It worked great on small stock where the #7 seemed awkward. 
I now have a good shooting board that can take care of most of my small squaring needs.

Jerry, thanks for sharing your craftsmanship and ideas.

Let's keep learning from each other.


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## TheGermanJoiner (Dec 1, 2013)

Couldn't of said it better ray. We all do different things and adapt our tools to fit specific needs. Whether we would use it on a #4 or not, you have to admire the craftsmanship and ingenuity. I'll say it again good job jerry


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## Sigung (Nov 20, 2013)

RE: TheOldFart; Gonna ask the same question, why a fence on a #4. I use a fence on a 6,7,8 to join . A 4 and 4 1/2 are intended primarily as smoothers, as a joiner they would not do the job since the sole is short.

Because I'm making very small boxes, and it's really hard to get the edges square without something like this, and for a box that is only 9×13 and made from half inch thick wood, the No. 4 is perfect for jointing the edges using this fence. I use this fence on my small block plane also, and believe me when I tell you that it works, and very well.

I will eventually make a good shooting board to replace the crappy one I have, but I doubt that it will be as flexible is this fence.

Now maybe I could use my 24" long No. 8 Jointer plane on a 13" long half inch thick piece of wood, but it seems a little ridiculous to me to even attempt it.

I don't understand why you are having such a hard time accepting the usefulness of this fence, Lee Valley Tools sells them








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, hell, they MAKE them, so is it such a stretch that other people have found them useful?


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## Sigung (Nov 20, 2013)

Ray and Vertigo, thank you guys so much for your kind words and your support. It means a lot to me.


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## TheGermanJoiner (Dec 1, 2013)

Jou got it meng


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## RB61 (Nov 30, 2012)

I need to apologize to Jerry. I sent the PM. It was in support of him and I completely understand his reaction to the Subject line. 
I should have put a little more thought into my message, given what I perceive as an unnecessary situation. His response on this forum is completely my fault, not Jerry's.


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## TheGermanJoiner (Dec 1, 2013)

I'm confused. That's actually pretty easy usually lol. But still confused


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## Sigung (Nov 20, 2013)

Vertigo, I'm sending you a PM to explain, Ray, I removed the reference, not your fault, but thank you anyway!!!!


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## Tim457 (Jan 11, 2013)

Jerry you did a nice job with it and Doc said so. Then you pretty much jumped down his throat when he asked why you used it on a #4. You could have just given the answer you gave Kevin, but instead you made it personal. We're all here to learn and have fun. No need for that.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Great job Jerry, thanks for sharing.


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## Sigung (Nov 20, 2013)

Tim, RE: Jerry you did a nice job with it and Doc said so. Then you pretty much jumped down his throat when he asked why you used it on a #4. You could have just given the answer you gave Kevin, but instead you made it personal. We're all here to learn and have fun. No need for that.

It was the second response: "OK - that's good
But I guess my question is why a fence at all for a plane made to smooth panels?" that made me wonder why he was still going after me, so I looked at his profile, and read a LOT of his posts and I started to see a pattern that I have seen many times before in life, and well, maybe you should do the same thing. You might gain some insight as to why I responded the way I did.

I love the people in this community of woodworkers who have posted their projects, shown their failures as well as successes, shared their journey and their insights with us, and generally tried to offer as much of themselves as they have time for, but professional commentators with nothing more to offer the community than their ascerbic input and holier than thou attitude do not play well to my ear.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Very smart Jerry.


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## JJohnston (May 22, 2009)

I'll second the use of a small plane for jointing short, narrow edges. In building the try-square for the tool swap, I tried using a #7 to true the edge of the blade, and it was just too much. There was so much plane hanging off both ends and both sides it was impossible to keep it from tilting every direction. Should probably have gone to a block plane.


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## lateralus819 (Mar 24, 2013)

Nice job. I too wonder why you jumped on him, was a simple question. To each his own i guess.


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## TheBoxWhisperer (Sep 24, 2012)

for small boxes as you described this would be much more useful to me then a larger one. Perfect for half inch stock. Have you tried it with 1/4 inch? Thanks for posting.


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

I like the fence. Great design and well made Have you tried shooting boards? I would think shooting boards are a more traditional approach to solving the problem.


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## Sigung (Nov 20, 2013)

RE: WayneC: Further back up the page I mentioned shooting boards. I don't have a good one right now. I plan on building one, and I'm sure it will have its place. This fence has its place too, it's like a portable shooting board and it really comes into its own when you have to shoot an edge on a board that is longer than your shooting board.


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## Sigung (Nov 20, 2013)

RE: The Box Whisperer: Yes I have tried it on 1/4" stock, and it works great. Very difficult to shoot a square edge on 1/4" stock if the stock is longer than your shooting board without something like this, so it definitely has a very useful place among my hand tools.


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

Really cool, Jerry. I think this would come in handy on small parts, like you said. Also, I was just gluing up some panels this past weekend and this might come in handy taking final swipe or two for a spring joint on longer pieces.


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## Sigung (Nov 20, 2013)

Thanks BinghamtonEd, I just looked at your projects page, they are all really cool, but the cedar chest is magnificent.


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## SCOTSMAN (Aug 1, 2008)

Apart from the obvious what's the difference between and old fart and a new fart?I have puzzled with this question all my adult life , and would love to find the answer, before I go of to the great fresh smelling world up yonder. Alistair


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## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

Alistair, depends on who you ask! In my case the difference is about 45 years. 0


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## TheBoxWhisperer (Sep 24, 2012)

awesome Jerry, thanks for getting back to me.


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## Sigung (Nov 20, 2013)

RE: The Box Whisperer - You are quite welcome, I'm glad you found this useful.

I need to tell everyone that I added no less than 5 more neodymium magnets before I got the holding power I wanted, so it now has 8 Grade N-52 Neodymium magnets total.

They are 1/2" in diameter and 1/8" thick. so they really clamp the fence to the side of the plane.

I've now added the UHMW slick tape over the part of the fenced that contacts the wood.

I've now used this fence now with my vintage Stanley No. 9 1/2 block plane, and it works exceeding well with that one also.

Regarding how the fence interacts with the plane blade..I was originally going to notch out the area where the plane blade extends out of the mouth and contacts top ledge of the fence but found it unnecessary. The blade DOES contact the aluminum on the very top edge of the fence, but it just pushes the fence down the extent that the blade protrudes from the plane mouth. Since the blade extends such a minute amount, it really is a non issue.


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## sikrap (Mar 15, 2009)

Very clever and well executed. Its certainly a lot less expensive than going out and buying a Stanley 95 or the Lie Nielsen block plane with a fence. Well Done!!


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