# Post Your Stanley # 78 Comments Here!



## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

Hey let's try specific threads for individual types of Stanley planes and others.

I am mostly mystified, this #78 is truly enigmatic. I just don't get it, how well this model has sold in such big numbers over the years. After all, there's no lateral adjuster, indeed no cutter adjustment of any kind but for the slop in its manufacturing tolerances. It does not excel in its purpose as a rabbeting plane. I have never used the forward bed to use it as a bullnose plane, because I don't think it will get that task done well. The iron casting is clunky. I own about 6 of these, and the one I prefer is the Sears equivalent, which I prefer due to the circular cutting scribe, far superior to the 3-point spur on the Stanleys. Hey, maybe when Veritas or Lie-Nielsen comes out with a #78 reproduction I'll take another look. Right now, in the bottom drawer of my handplane rollaway, they provide ballast and stability to the cabinet. 
Let's start other threads dedicated to other makes/models, like I did here!* Please comment if you are familiar with this plane!!*


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## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

I have a couple of the variations, Sargent, Craftsman, and Miller Falls. And none of them are complete! When looking to buy one, make sure its complete. The original parts can cost as much as the plane. However parts can be bought new off the web as well.


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

Thanks, Shane!
I wonder if anyone considers this plane to be their go-to tool. You're correct about making sure the fence and depth stop are present if buying one. Seems like those two items are listed as often as the planes themselves, often priced higher than 78s themselves, without those two accessories. I'll sometimes buy junky 78s for a few bucks just to scavenge the spurs, which are hard to find but fit my Stanley 45s perfectly.


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## Dragonsrite (Feb 5, 2009)

I picked up one of the 78s last summer for $20-ish at an antique shop. I finally came across a "need" for it last week - either drag the router table into the basement for one 22" rabbet, or use the plane. So I gave the plane a real quick tune-up; just sharpened up the scribe & iron and wax the body surfaces.

I must say that I really enjoyed using this plane. It did a fine job of creating the rabbet and was very easy to use. Mine is missing the depth … foot… or whatever you call it, so I had to really watch how deep I was going.

I agree that some iron adjustments would be nice, both height & lateral. Haven't had a need to try the front mount yet.


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

Thanks, Dragonsrite! Good to know there are positive experiences to be had with this plane! Better yet, perhaps we have another 'Convert', someone who had a good experience with a hand plane as an alternative to a power tool. Good story, thanks for sharing!


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Great idea posting one topic per plane!

I have the craftsman version and it is very tricky to get set up right. The nicker was proud of the side and had to be ground down, the side was not flat so it was important that the blade is in line with the nicker rather than the side of the plane. 









Also it is very tricky to adjust the blade depth. You have to tap it down into position but if you go too far there is no way to tap the back of the plane to back out the blade like in a wooden plane. You have to pull it back out and start over again.

Also the bed on the craftsman is not flat it has a little elevated piece at the front of the blade that I had to file down. 









But I got it for $15 bucks complete and it is set up now ready for the next rabbet I have to cut.


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## BrandonW (Apr 27, 2010)

I have the Craftsman version with the little horn at the front for a place to hold the plane, it's definitely an improvement over the regular Stanley. The nicker/spur is the circular one you mentioned, but it doesn't sit well in the bed and is virtually useless. Without the nicker, it is terrible at cross grain cuts and does okay work at rebates with the grain. I hardly use it.










The Stanley and Craftsman parts are interchangable. I purchased a new Stanley fence for mine from Highland and it fits perfectly.

If someone is really interested in this plane, I'd recommend purchasing the English version made by Woden, which seems to have some nice upgrades from the usual Stanley version.


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Ah, and this thread would not be complete without a link to Smitty's Skill Builder on using the 78 to raise a panel!
http://lumberjocks.com/Smitty_Cabinetshop/blog/24504


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

Okay, I've gotta admit I've not even been paying attention to my own planes… or does itt mean I simply have too many of 'em? Nahhh!!! So I went to get my 78s out, and lo and behold: Yes, height adjusting levers DO exist on some of these planes! I misspoke about this earlier.  On the left, a Stanley 78, with a height adjuster on the rear cutter bed! Next to it, a couple of 'USA' 78s probably knockoffs, both with spur cutters. Note the 'horn' on one of 'em. And, in picture #2:  A Sears Craftsman 78 in the box, with a height adjuster lever and circular scribe cutter! Alas, no horn! I think I have more, but probably in my future garage-sale stash outside. Thanks for looking, and all of the great comments! I remember now, not being able to combine the best of the best into one custom 78 that had all features. I like having a horn on front, lever height adjuster, filled handle, etc. Definitely going to check out that panel-raising post as Mauricio suggested. Keep the comments coming, and thanks everyone!


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## racerglen (Oct 15, 2010)

[Poopie I have a Canadian Stanley '78..works just fine, has the lever adjustment for blade depth, 
and like you I've never triedthe BULLnose position…..

;-)


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Thanks for posting the link, Mauricio. Yep, I'm a fan of the #78, and I'm actually wrapping up using it today to narrow some floating panels for use in a headboard frame and panel build.










The blade depth adjuster on the Stanley #78 (later) models makes it painless to use the tool effectively. Wax helps alot, too.


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

Smitty, I was glad to see the link to your panel-raising technique using a #78. Are you freehanding the angle? I never would have thought of a 78, or ANY rabbet plane, to do a mortise. I've always just used a 4 1/2 and followed up with a 9 1/2. Still, a fascinating method, thanks for posting it!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

The panels I've done are backsides of a headboard and drawer bottoms, so freehand worked great. Glad you liked the post, and thanks for giving the 'venerable' #78 it's due with it's very own thread!


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

Thanks again, Smitty! I'm thinking of a way to perhaps devise a jig of some sort to achieve a taper such as your raised panels. I'll try freehand first of course, perhaps some sort of skate that will ensure a consistent angle and depth. Again, thanks!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

It is a different way to work, setting a fine cut and then shaving to the edge and face gauge lines. I hope when you give it a try that you're freed of a jig mindset. Only reason I say this is because it is liberating to have such fine control with a tool while using it. When you're to the marks, simply stop.

Good luck!


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## BobM001 (Jan 8, 2012)

I bought this one off "the Bay". Made in England. The blade was "so so". I got a replacement Lie-Nielsen blade for it. Once I saw how sharp they were and how they did their sharpening I put the original in the Veritas MK II and put a mirror edge on it with DMT's and a 4000 grit water stone. This was a "recommended tool" for cleaning to the shoulder of a tenon at the timber framing school I plan to attend.

Bob


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Bob, that 78 is very nice. Damn now I want a 78 with the depth and lateral adjuster.


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Mauricio, I could be wrong but I don't think the #78 has a lateral adjuster. Someone correct me if I am wrong.


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## BobM001 (Jan 8, 2012)

I think he means the fence. You're right about the blade adjustment, just depth. There is a depth shoe as well. This one even has a never used scoring blade.

Bob


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## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

I think some types have a lateral adjuster. Looks like one in the above pic.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Yep, that's a complete #78. In the case of these planes, I don't like the older ones that lack the depth adjuster. It's crude, like that of a #120 block plane, but loads better than one without.

Pic: "Paddle"-type depth adusters on the 120 and 78:


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

No Stanley #78 that I've heard or read about had lateral. Did Record?


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## ksSlim (Jun 27, 2010)

My lateral adjust is a small brass hammer. 78s work great for trimming tennons for post and rail fence.
If you have the time, you can make nickers from a steel washer.


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

Definitely that lever is a height adjuster, and is why the earlier flat cutters will not work in a height-adjuster equipped body. Thanks for the pics! BobM: Aha! Maybe this tool does indeed excel at timberframe tenoning, which might explain the clunky-ness of its design.


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

*Hey, Veritas! Lie-Nielsen! Are you listening?*Somebody, please give us a bronze-bodied 78 with a rosewood-filled tote, height-adjuster, lateral adjuster, mouth adjuster, micrometric foot adjuster, Horn, micrometric fence, for under $125.00??? (Ooops, that could be the deal-breaker!) Oh, wait, *what other features would you like to see in a Revived 78?*


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

PK,
I think that htis is Veritas's answer to the #78


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

I love the #78. You're right, Poopie, there's a learning curve but it's worth it. The trick for me is to have really sharp nickers and I usually score ahead of it. I wouldn't attempt more than a 1/2 inch rebate or so with mine. We don't need no stinking Veritas, Scott! However, that is a skew…..


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

*lysdexic:* Wow, close indeed, but I'm reminded of the umm..Stanley #46 with that skewed blade? Those are beautiful planes, and I'm troubled by the thought of having to get both the RH and LH and have the set. Having a fence supported by two posts is a great feature! What is the model number for these? And so the evolution continues! *Al*: LOL at 'Veritas'. After 45 years of woodworking in various endeavors, I still reel from culture shock! *Thanks everyone, for your great comments!* Keep 'em coming! *And though it's rarely spoken here, I am most grateful for those who take the time to post pics, especially when I know they were taken specifically to post them here and to share their knowledge with us! *


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

That Veritas plane is a beauty.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

I'm with you, Poopie. I recoil from these modern fandangled designs but I think I need to embrace a bit of acceptance. After all, we're driving those spaceage cars we saw in magazines as kids. At least LN has the common decency to make them at least LOOK like Stanleys


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

Holy….Wow!
Looking at the Lee Valley catalog description, this Veritas plane can be set up to do raised panels! I think I'm in love with this plane! WOW!!

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=59999&cat=1,41182,41192&ap=1

Apparently, it is based on the Stanley # 289 in daze of olde.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

^Yeah, it's a bada$$, Poopie. It's got a much wider sole than the pictures would suggest and with an angled fence, the sky's the limit. That skew would make a big difference, as well. I'm being drawn toward the light.


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## BobM001 (Jan 8, 2012)

MY MY MY! Now THAT is one sweet piece! Every time I look at their catalog I get a case of the "Wannas". I should plan a trip to Ogdensburg to "oogle" all their stuff. That area is where my Mom's family hails from.

Bob


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Yea, I am not saying that it is a modern #78. But why would they make a #78 equivalent with this in their inventory.


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

Oh-oh… now I'm getting confused. The Lee Valley catalog description of this plane indicates that the blade is skewed at a 30-degree angle. But in the LV video in the e-catalog, http://www.leevalley.com/en/Home/VideoPopup.aspx?v=10 a skew angle of 22 degrees is noted. All Right guys.. which is it? I've only ever sharpened one skewed blade, on an old wooden-bodied rabbet plane, with less than perfect results. I'm scared to attempt sharpening an expensive skew blade, much less not knowing the angle I'm supposed to set it at. Yes, *BobM*, and the affliction is worse when the local Lee Valley store is 15 minutes away!


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## BrandonW (Apr 27, 2010)

Good point, Scott. I got to get me one of these, and when I do, I'm saying goodbye to my #78. Of course, it'll take me awhile before I can afford one. ;-)


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

*lysdexic:* According to the Lee Valley catalog, this Veritas plane is designed after the Stanley #289. My guess is that they still might create a plane similar in form and function to the # 78, if demand warrants it! I'll admit, though, that this plane would be well-used in my shop for a variety of applications! Thanks for spoiling us, dammit!


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

It's definitely a plane that deserves attention. Or two planes, actually. I know Don built a panel raiser plane. There's something just very cool about executing that with a plane. Get a set, Poopie!


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

I messed around with one at a Veritas booth at a woodworing show. At that time, though, I didn't really know enough to know what I was holding. The woodworker you must not be named recommends this plane and states that you only need one depending on your dominant hand.

Is there anything that #78 could do that this couldn't - other than being cheaper. I am asking out of ignorance.


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## willmego (Mar 27, 2008)

I bought a #78 on ebay for something like $12, pretty much mint with both lateral and depth stops. However, it's "collectors" value was ruined by the fact it was missing a tiny chunk of the corner towards the back of the sole. Completely harmless for working, of course, and I personally I don't get collecting things. Very happy with the tool, does a great job. Only thing of course is to be careful with blade setup. For fun, I have messed with slanting the blade to the side, and it will cut a sort of sliding dovetail looking rabbit, but I'm not sure I could do that accurately enough to employ like that. I intend to someday make a dovetailing plane just for that, since I like sliding dovetails.


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## tom427cid (Aug 21, 2011)

Speaking of 78's here is one you won't see very often-
tom


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

^That 78 got a haircut, Tom
Scott, I think it might be the reverse. I think there are movements the Veritas plane would excel at over the 78 simply due to the skew, if nothing else. I like to use my 78 for rebates because that's what it likes. I've never really asked it to do much more. The 45 can execute the same rebate but it's fun to lug out the old 78.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

That's funny, I've never thought to use a #45 for a rabbet.


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

Tom427: Looks like a 78 and a 75 were left unattended together in a dimly-lit workshop!!


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## Dcase (Jul 7, 2010)

Once I got the iron square and sharp and the plane tuned my 78 worked really well. With the fence I was able to cut very nice clean and straight rabbits. I have tried using the 78 for other jobs and it did not work well at all. So my thoughts on it are if you use it with the fence for cutting rabbets it works fine.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Yeaaaaaaaaah, baby!


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Dan, I like your #78 "job description" and would add that it excels at long grain rabbets and can struggle with cross grain rabbets. However, that may be due to operator limitations.


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## KenBry (Sep 13, 2011)

Have any of you guys read this article by Chris Shwawrtz? He talks about the Veritas shown above in post #25. It's a good read..

Link to Chris's article


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## BobM001 (Jan 8, 2012)

Just an FYI,
At present there are a BUNCH of Stanley No. 78 planes on eBay at present. From rusted hulks to pristine. From starting dirt cheap to "AYSM?". Also some rare Stanleys for CRAZY $$$$.

Bob


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## hhhopks (Nov 22, 2011)

I just purchased a craftsman version of it ($9.00) and stole all the parts that were missing on my 78. Now my 78 is complete.

Are there any video posted on how to setup and use this plan?


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Ken,
Yea, that is the article that I was referring to but I just couldn't remember where I had read it. I find the article reasonable and compelling.


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## sikrap (Mar 15, 2009)

I love the 78. I happen to have about 6 Stanleys, a couple Craftsman (Sargent) and a few Millers Falls versions. One area where they excel is to hog out the steps before using a complex molding plane. Just "step" the wood down until you get close to your profile and then its just a few swipes with the molding plane.


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

Thanks again for all the great comments! Am I the only one who wishes that they'd put a cutting spur on BOTH sides of the plane? Wow, it would be nice if this plane could cut a dado instead of stopping short in design by doing rabbets only. *Oh, yeah… Does anyone have a left-handed model of this plane??*


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

I don't think there is a southpaw version carrying the #78 number.

Dave, love that use of the tool! Now I just need me some moulding planes.


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## lwllms (Jun 1, 2009)

I have a 78 and had a 289. Both are uncomfortable to use. However I really liked my 278 when working carpentry. With the fence off it'd fit in my nail apron and handled all kinds of scribing and fitting tasks. It was especially useful when trimming built-in tub or shower units. I've had a lot of Stanley planes but I'm not a big fan. The 92 and 278 would be the last ones I'd sell. The fence and depth stop are ambidextrous and there's a spur on both sides.


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

A Wards Master version of the Stanley #78









Might be a little newer than the above plane, though


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

Nice one, Bandit!
Just wondering, does the 'Wards' model have the circular scribe, or the 3-lobed scribe like the Stanley?
gotta love that depth adjustment lever!! Wonder if ANY maker made a lateral adjuster for a '78? Thanks for posting, bandit!!


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## mandatory66 (Jul 26, 2012)

I hope you guy's don't mind if I go off the 78 topic but this is similar in nature. I was wondering if one bought a Stanley 39 1/2 if you could make a 3/4 inch dado by moving the temporary fence over 1/4 inch to widen the dado to 3/4 inch. I was thinking if you did this one may get a lot of tear out if it worked. Would be nice if this worked. I have no experience with a dado plane but have become interested. Th 39 3/4 planes seem to be priced higher than the others, so if this would work with a little more effort I would not mind buying a 39 1/2.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Manda - I'll preface my comments by saying there's not a #39 of any width in my till. I thing the 3/4" version sells for more because it's of the size most relevent today. Using a smaller size then repeating the cut would likely work, but defeats the purpose of having a single plane cut dados quickly and easily (in theory).

I've struggled with dados, through and stopped, and tried to cut them several different ways with varying degrees of efficiency. If I didn't hate spurs as much as I do, the #39 may be considered. But really, it's priced high and you need all kinds of sizes if you dimension stock by hand (which never is 'dimension' stock).


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## mandatory66 (Jul 26, 2012)

Smitty,
What got me interested was watching a guy cut a dado on Utube looked like a nice quick way and his dado looked clean but I could not see the bottom. He was using a wooden plane which was taking beautiful shavings. I was looking at the Stanley 39 because I understand that the wood planes can warp on the bottom over time. I just hate setting up a dado on the table saw ( cut adjust,cut adjust etc. ) Using a router puts me in a storm of sawdust, I just want to use a hand tool if they work as I saw.


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## mandatory66 (Jul 26, 2012)

Just want to add that I have a 78 on it's way to my house on Monday. Hand cut rabbits might prep me for a 39.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

I'll be standing by for your eval of the #39 (any size!), as I expect you're heading that way. 

The only one I know that had a range of #39s and used them is Arlin Eastman here on LJs. He's a buddy, but isn't on much these days to ask. Maybe a PM will bring him out.


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## DocBailey (Dec 9, 2011)

Mandatory66, Smitty
I have a 39 ½. I use it to make the dado in the usual manner. If the material which will "live" in the dado is thicker than ½", I reduce the thickness of that portion of the material which corresponds to the dado. Make sense?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Doc, thanks for contributing! Is it the best way to hand-cut dados for you, re: the #39, or just a way?


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

I did a thread on the '39s here about a year ago. http://lumberjocks.com/topics/42193 I really just wanted a dedicated tool for doing 3/4 dadoes across the grain for the shelving units that I always seem to be making, and compatible with any medium like mdf, solid wood, and anything else. I really believe the 39s were born to make window frames and other millwork in softwoods. There are YouTube videos on the subject, some of which produced results that I'd be too embarrassed to post! Doc is right about adjusting the thickness of the mating parts to the dado you make.

Anyway, I once thought I might find somebody with an overhead milling machine to narrow down a '78 to 3/4" inch. I'm now just going to make a wood/aluminum bodied plane with nickers on each side, and use either the Stanley '45 3/4" cutter, OR maybe a chisel and wedge. It's a project on the back burner. All in the name of de-evolutionizing my shop.


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

The "nicker" on this Wards Master is a three lobed one. The thumbscrew for the fence has a "diamond shaped" thingy on it. This one looks like it just came off the shelf. Either someone else refurbbed it, or, it sat around all this time. Iron does not look like it was even used!









Enjoy the view….


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## Peteybadboy (Jan 23, 2013)

Guys you got me motivated to clean up and sharpen my 78. (bought at a flee market in the 80/90's) still has the 16$ price on it. I have two questions what is the blade angle? (I have the veratas sharping system) what would I set that at? and it appears that you can but the blade on the font end. What would you use that for?


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

$16 is what I paid for mine, plus Feebay shipping. Angle looks like the usual 25 degrees. The front pos. is for use close up to another surface, and is called "Bullnose". 
How about a few more of this one??









Set up as a bullnose plane









All of the parts laid out, before clean up.









Cutting a narrow Rebate.


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Just spent the last half an hour, sharpening the iron. Forget about getting a flat back on these things, ain't going to happen. Factory milled this way? All three edges seem to be thicker than the middle? I do now have a mirror bright edge, front and back. iron was milled at 25 degrees, and I had to add one degree while sharpening the edge.

Might be a fun little plane to use…..


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Sounds like you got an iron without a good back, Bandit…


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## mandatory66 (Jul 26, 2012)

Thanks Doc,
That is about what I do now, I cut my Dado on the TB saw and if its tight rather than reset the Dado I just trim the board that's going into it with a few swipes with a small shoulder plane. I guess if the 39 1/2 is used I can just cut a 1/4 inch rabbit in 3/4 stock with a 38 which will leave me the 1/2 inch rabbit needed. What do you think about moving the fence to get a full 3/4 Dado?


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

My Record 78 was purchased years ago from Garret Wade and I'm 
just starting to use it now, thanks to the help from LJ's, .


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## camps764 (Dec 9, 2011)

man…I have one of these from ebay on the way right now. I'm pretty excited for it to get here. I plan to use it pretty exclusively to trim tennons.

We'll see how it does…sounds like it have the potential to be a workhorse, but will probably just end up as a turd.


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Not quite THAT bad of an iron









The problem is, it has the same hollow area on both sides.

As for the stones and jig to sharpen this little gem









Take a guess at who's book that is???


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

Man, am I glad to see this thread. I picked up a #78 look alike a while ago. No fence and no depth stop. The screw that holds the scorer is wallowed out and TiGHT. It doesn't have the lateral adjuster.
The blade is a craftsman but there are no makers or retailer's markings on the plane. 
I'd like to bring this old dog back to usable life, but where to find the missing or damaged parts? I'm not a collector, so I'm not concerned about matching the originals.
BTW, Highland shows all the parts I need but the are sold out and out of production. Same for the Stanley site.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

I've got a few but don't use them much. I've got one unused still in the box. I'm not sure what to do with that one.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Gene, It's certainly something I understand wanting to do (bring an old tool back to life) but the #78 is pretty widely available for not much money ($60-$75 should get you a pick of the litter, complete) and many times less than that. Folks that are missing parts are searching like you are, and that competition makes filling parts lists pretty expensive.

But Bandit, I LIKE that iron! Irons with a back hollow are fine; Japanese chisels as a poster child in that sense. I thought yours was not concave but convex. You're good to go!


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Just watched a vid by Herr Schwarz. He used a newer model, but basically the same set-ups as with one of these. Cool music to it, too. Might look around and see IF St. Roy has anything about these little guys.

So, to go across the grain, one has to drag the plane backwards, to score the grain, THEN start the cutting out on the far end. Then work one's way backwards?

found this thread, and thought others might like to see it again.


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## mandatory66 (Jul 26, 2012)

Got my 78 in the mail today, Came in original box and was like new except for some light rust on the iron and a few specs on the flat side. The first thing I did was clean up the iron for sharpening, it was then i discovered that the iron was not square . it was out of square 1/16 of an inch, I suspect that this is the reason for the plane being in such great shape, it could not have performed well and was just left to lie. I squared the iron on my Worksharp and flattened the back. finished it on water stones. I usually put a mico bevel on my irons but i could not do it with my jig which is just one of those $10.00 jobs with the one roller. the shape of the iron prevented extending the iron in the jig to get 30 Deg. I settled for 25 Deg. and no micro. I then just cleaned up the plane and flattened the sole ( took about 15 min.)I was surprised at how well the (for lack of a better description) the two frogs are machined, very smooth. Made my first hand rabbit with the grain , looked machine cut. Next across the grain using the nicker just as it was ( no sharpening) the rabbit was very good but I would have liked a sharper shoulder. Filing the nicker I think will do it. I do not know the vintage of the plane but the price on the box was $6.59. I am very pleased with the performance of this plane and thanks to the guys on this site I opted for a vintage Stanley as most recommended.


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## Tugboater78 (May 26, 2012)

Been tryin to snag a decent one of these, but is everyone and thier mother buying one? I will keep lookin, mayne ill snag up a good deal soon.


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

tug: the last 78 I bought was priced at $1 and had the rod and guide!! It looked awful, but looked like it still had the factory grind… They DO turn up, and often for surprisingly little money sometimes. DO try to get one with the lever height adjuster lever, and the guide fence too. Keep hunting! And the bullnose option is, well, better than the #75 bullnose plane, by a mile.


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## WoodenGhost (Oct 22, 2014)

Guys!!!!

Soooo…. I bought this 78 about two weeks ago and finally got around to playing it with and love it!!!

I had bought that craftsman about two weeks before that but had no fence or depth adjustments and for the price of buying them both online I was able to get the Stanley.

Only did a test run on an old cedar 2×4 that I had laying around. Have only cut with the grain. Ill sharpen the spur this weekend and try it against it. Although to be honest, something about the fence that screams out fragile so I will take good care of it.














































Excited!!!


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## fuigb (Apr 21, 2010)

I have an old 78 that was gifted to me, and then I got a Craftsman thrown in with the 12-dollar deal at a flea market for a Stanley (branded as Craftsman) 45 that was damn near complete and with a box of the cutters. Pardon the gloat.

The 78 is my go-to tool for rabbets when I'm working indoors or not racing the clock. Put it to good use trimming the tops/bottoms of tounges on hardwood flooring.

A table saw is faster for all rabbeting plane jobs, where's the fun in that?


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## Tim457 (Jan 11, 2013)

I didn't realize we had a thread just for the 78. I picked one up barn fresh, and this picture is actually after brushing off the first and probably second layer and the cobwebs.









It cleaned up pretty well and actually had 90% or so of the japanning. Here it is cutting a cross grain rabbet on a scrap piece.









I think if I was cutting an important cross grain rabbet I would score the line with a marking knife first to make a cleaner cut. But overall it performs much better than people make it out to. Yeah it would be better if it had two fence rods and finer adjustment and two spurs would make it more versatile, but it does work. That said, I wouldn't turn down the Veritas skew rabbet.


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## ElChe (Sep 28, 2014)

Calling all 78 aficionados. I just picked up a millers falls version of the 78 with no blade. This one has the lever adjustment. Any sources for a replacement blade? Will a Stanley fit? Some google posts say that Lie Nielsen makes a replacement blade but I couldn't find one on their website. Struck out with Hock also. Any help would be appreciated.


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

nhplaneparts.com

An Ebay "store" with a few 100 plane parts. Eric just MIGHT have the iron you need, too.


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## DLK (Nov 26, 2014)

Looking at various photos online it sure looks to me that the Stanley 78 cutter will fit the Miller Falls 85, but I cannot say absolutely for certain. Seems you can buy one for about $10 including shipping on e-bay. I did see one advertised as a Vintage Stanley or Similar Rabbet Plane #78 Blade Part, which says to me that it is likely to fit the MF 85.

I agree check nhplaneparts


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Been giving my Wards #78 a work out lately









Had a few rebates to mill. made a lot of shavings, too









And a lot of tenons were cut with it as well.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

I finally got one of these things - but only the Craftsman (apparently made by Sargent), without the adjustment lever. I had been looking for a 78 for awhile, but was unwilling to pay $50 with shipping for a complete Stanley.

So on ebay I paid $23 including shipping for a like-new one. Honestly, I wasin't paying attention and didn't notice that there is no adjuster.

Oh well, if this one doesn't work out, there is always the grizzly copy of the record 778 (with 2 rods), which is only $55 new (and I think I can find a free shipping code).


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

I don't think you'll miss the lever that much.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Thanks Don, for the word from the seasoned veteran!

Some of the earlier posts on this thread indicated a strong preference for the version with the lever. I'll just have to give it a try and see how it goes.

-Paul


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Set close to where you want as for depth of cut, like maybe a see-through shaving. Then a tap or three with a small hammer to set it deeper as needed.


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

*Ocelot:* Your plane is truly a keeper, and in that condition it's justifiable to overlook the lack of an adjusting lever.

You'll like that circular scribe feature, too.

Use it well!


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Thanks poopiekat and bandit!

At least my disease has some good symptoms. I was telling my wife this morning that I had a mental illness - since I bought about 20 planes on ebay last year, and had seemed to be in recovery until this week I bought 3 of them. <sigh> I also bought a No 70 box scraper that I don't need, and my 4th Bailey No 7, which I don't need (but was $47 with shipping and a type I don't have so I had to buy it). You know how it is, though your market and price (and horde) may be different.

The 78 (or Craftsman 3730 in this case) is what I actually was shopping for. I had actually resolved to buy the grizzly rabbet plane, which has a nice advance-screw depth adjuster and has 2 fence rods and on which the fence can be used on either side (though I don't know why that would be useful unless the depth stop and nicker can also be reversed for lefties). But then I saw this one, in which the listing did not say "78" anywhere and was listed as a "babbit" plane and was on the less popular "home..tools" section of the bay (not the collectibles) and I figured I could get it for a good price. It worked out OK (though I have not yet received the item).

-Paul


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Now that I think about it, I might get the Grizzly 778 clone too - just for comparison. ;-)

Is there a cure for this?


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

*Ocelot:* you'll go into remission ONLY AFTER you've accumulated one of every known manufacturer of 78s and clones. But then you'll want one each of every variation and type.

Hmm.. come to think of it, is there a type study dedicated to the 78s?


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

I don't know if there is a type study of 78s.

Besides that, there doesn't seem to be much about any Craftsman branded planes. I have bought bearings for my 1961 Craftsman RAS from Sears parts center, and could even look the saw up by number, but Sears parts center doesn't even get a match on Model no 3730, which is this plane (I think).

-Paul


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

My first hand-cut rabbet/rebate. I didn't even hone the iron.

The plane is, I think, over 60 years old and seems never to have been used - still has factory grind on it. The number 79 is cast into the depth stop and fence, confirming that this is a Craftsman-branded Sargent no 79, which according to sargent-planes.com ended production in 1953. Other info on that site indicates that mine would have been made 1948 or later.

I hope I get better and faster with it though. This took about 20 minutes for 1/4" deep, 1/2" wide rabbet, about 2 feet long in pine, and it turned out a little off-target and rough.

The nicker needs work to make it lay flush with the side of the plane, and the fence rod seems to be not quite straight in some way I haven't yet analysed. Also, I suppose this is a design "feature" - the hole through the fence is a little loose on the rod, so that the fence moves a bit during use - pivoting about the screw which holds the fence in position.










I was skeptical about that date range for my plane, since I didn't think they used that type of corrugated box so early. According to the markings on the back, the box was made by River Raisin Paper Company, Monroe MI - which apparently was one of the biggest box-makers in the country. I'm trying to confirm that they were making corrugated containers in the early 50's. OK, I checked that out at corrugated.org and found that corrugated as we know it was developed in 1870 and dominated by 1920. I didn't know that!


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

Anyone know of a source for nickers?


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

Short answer? From other planes.
But if you don't have a spare parts bin, the first place I'd look is eBay.
Those 3-lobed knickers are featured on other planes besides 78s, too.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

After honing the iron a little to put a 38 degree secondary bevel over the 30 degree (60+ year old) factory grind, the second rabbet went much better. Fun little plane to use. This took perhaps 5 minutes and produced many almost full-length, full-width shavings. The iron was set about 5 thousandths deep, as I recall.

I'm fixin' to make a set of setup bars to facilitate rapid and fairly precise setting of the depth stop and fence.


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

> Anyone know of a source for nickers?
> 
> - rwe2156


New Hampshire plane parts on ebay.

http://stores.ebay.com/New-Hampshire-Plane-Parts?_rdc=1

Strongly recommend having him as a saved seller if you will ever need vintage plane parts. One word of caution-make sure you are ready for the part, he ships fast! It seems I finish the paypal transaction and the postal carrier drops the shipping envelope in my mailbox five minutes later. 

OK, maybe not quite that quick, but you won't be waiting around for your parts.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

I'll second what JayT wrote.


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Used that Wards 78 the other day…









Cross grain first, then the rest…









Wood is White Oak. Thumb was a bit sore, but not too bad….


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Is that a door panel you're making?


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Bottom panel for the Brill Bit Box project.


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## Matt59 (Mar 31, 2013)

Anyone have any tips or tricks for setting the iron square, so I don't get an out-of-square rabbet? I've had my 78 a few months now, used it for my coffee table breadboards and now on my bookcase project. I try to set the iron so its edge is flush with the edge that will ride against the work; I put it side-down on a flat surface, tighten it a bit, and check it. More often than not, the cutting edge is skewed.

I've taken to tapping it into square with a hammer, but surely there's an easier way. What am I missing here?


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Matt,

Does your nicker (spur, whatever) lie flush with the side of the plane?

When you say the "cutting edge is skewed", I assume you mean that it cuts deeper at one edge than at the other edge. There is a nifty little electronic tool from iGauging which is just a short stroke spring-loaded indicator that you can use to check the actual extension of the blade (in thousandths of an inch or tenths of mm). You can check the two side to insure that the edge is square and then readjust.

I believe it's called "Digital lane Check".

You can buy one from Taiylor toolworks on ebay or from Amazon or other places.

-Paul


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

It is more about how the iron is sharpened

It needs to be a 90 degree to the edge. If it is skewed, someone ground it that way.

Nicker? Depends on who made the plane. Stanley is a three lobed affair, but others were a circle.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Yeah, that too! Like bandit said.

The iron has to be ground square or if it isn't square, at least angled in the lucky direction so that you can skew the upper end of the iron toward the left side of the plane and still have the corner of the iron flush with the right edge of the sole and the iron projection the same across the sole.

Also, to cut a square rabbet/rebate, the fence has to be square with the sole and the board has to be square when you start cutting. I've cut two rabbets now and already I'm giving advice. Yikes!

-Paul

-


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Yes, check the edge is perpendicular to the side first. Then, tapping it into square with a hammer is a very acceptable approach. If it looks square but cuts are not, it could be technique. It's not the easiest thing, getting true 90 degree rabbets by hand. It's why there are so many varieties of rabbet planes / side cutters, like the #79, and #98/#99.


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## Matt59 (Mar 31, 2013)

Paul and Bandit-

The nicker lies flush with the plane's edge and the cutting edge is ground square. My problem is when I attempt to register the side of the iron to one side of the plane, it's really easy to lose that setting when tightening it down. So, I've begun tightening it down a bit, sighting down the sole, and tapping the iron into square.

Acceptable method for sure, and it works. If there's a faster method, I'd try it. But, I do like the plane and the challenge that comes with learning to use it. The one I have is a Canadian-made Stanley and came with all its parts, including an extra fence.


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