# Miter Saw Station



## Lenny (Sep 28, 2008)

*Cabinet Construction*

In Fine Woodworking magazine's Winter 2014 Tool & Shops annual issue, Robert O'Brien shared his various shop work stations, including a chop saw station. As I studied it, I came to really like it, and decided to build one identical to it. It incorporates a shelf for the miter saw, flanked by a set of two base cabinets. There is a lot of work involved in this build and after a good start; I decided to post this as a blog series. If done timely, the first post would have shown cabinet construction. Since I am already past that, I will provide a brief description of how it played out.

I made four base cabinets from ¾" birch plywood. The boxes have two sides with a rabbet at the top and bottom to receive those elements and the back is set into a dado milled on all four pieces. Glue and screws hold everything together. The face frames are solid maple milled to about 2 inches wide and joined via glue and pocket screws. The face frames are attached to the carcasses (carcases if you prefer) with glue and biscuits. Each cabinet has an opening for a drawer and a door beneath it. Two cabinets were screwed to each other making the two sets.

Next, I built a base for each set of cabinets. I used pressure treated 2×6 and faced it with poplar. I leveled the cabinets with shims and screwed them into wall studs. The cabinets and the base received two coats of oil-based polyurethane. Here are a few photos. Next, the shelf and counter tops.


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## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

Lenny said:


> *Cabinet Construction*
> 
> In Fine Woodworking magazine's Winter 2014 Tool & Shops annual issue, Robert O'Brien shared his various shop work stations, including a chop saw station. As I studied it, I came to really like it, and decided to build one identical to it. It incorporates a shelf for the miter saw, flanked by a set of two base cabinets. There is a lot of work involved in this build and after a good start; I decided to post this as a blog series. If done timely, the first post would have shown cabinet construction. Since I am already past that, I will provide a brief description of how it played out.
> 
> ...


Nice job Lenny.
I recently did a wall like this. Best thing about it is the amount of storage that you get.

You really seem to do a nice job with these.
Steve


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## Woodenwizard (Jan 25, 2010)

Lenny said:


> *Cabinet Construction*
> 
> In Fine Woodworking magazine's Winter 2014 Tool & Shops annual issue, Robert O'Brien shared his various shop work stations, including a chop saw station. As I studied it, I came to really like it, and decided to build one identical to it. It incorporates a shelf for the miter saw, flanked by a set of two base cabinets. There is a lot of work involved in this build and after a good start; I decided to post this as a blog series. If done timely, the first post would have shown cabinet construction. Since I am already past that, I will provide a brief description of how it played out.
> 
> ...


Lenny; That is looking awesome. Makes me want to redo my current set up.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

Lenny said:


> *Cabinet Construction*
> 
> In Fine Woodworking magazine's Winter 2014 Tool & Shops annual issue, Robert O'Brien shared his various shop work stations, including a chop saw station. As I studied it, I came to really like it, and decided to build one identical to it. It incorporates a shelf for the miter saw, flanked by a set of two base cabinets. There is a lot of work involved in this build and after a good start; I decided to post this as a blog series. If done timely, the first post would have shown cabinet construction. Since I am already past that, I will provide a brief description of how it played out.
> 
> ...


Lookin good from here ;-)


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## ellen35 (Jan 1, 2009)

Lenny said:


> *Cabinet Construction*
> 
> In Fine Woodworking magazine's Winter 2014 Tool & Shops annual issue, Robert O'Brien shared his various shop work stations, including a chop saw station. As I studied it, I came to really like it, and decided to build one identical to it. It incorporates a shelf for the miter saw, flanked by a set of two base cabinets. There is a lot of work involved in this build and after a good start; I decided to post this as a blog series. If done timely, the first post would have shown cabinet construction. Since I am already past that, I will provide a brief description of how it played out.
> 
> ...


Great work, Lenny. This kind of cabinet makes the miter saw cuts so much easier.
I like your miter saw too ;-)
Ellen


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## Lenny (Sep 28, 2008)

Lenny said:


> *Cabinet Construction*
> 
> In Fine Woodworking magazine's Winter 2014 Tool & Shops annual issue, Robert O'Brien shared his various shop work stations, including a chop saw station. As I studied it, I came to really like it, and decided to build one identical to it. It incorporates a shelf for the miter saw, flanked by a set of two base cabinets. There is a lot of work involved in this build and after a good start; I decided to post this as a blog series. If done timely, the first post would have shown cabinet construction. Since I am already past that, I will provide a brief description of how it played out.
> 
> ...


Thanks everyone. Steve, the additional storage space is all part of a larger scheme. I'm looking forward to getting several items in a proper drawer or cabinet tray. Ellen, you wouldn't have a biased perspective on the saw would you?


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

Lenny said:


> *Cabinet Construction*
> 
> In Fine Woodworking magazine's Winter 2014 Tool & Shops annual issue, Robert O'Brien shared his various shop work stations, including a chop saw station. As I studied it, I came to really like it, and decided to build one identical to it. It incorporates a shelf for the miter saw, flanked by a set of two base cabinets. There is a lot of work involved in this build and after a good start; I decided to post this as a blog series. If done timely, the first post would have shown cabinet construction. Since I am already past that, I will provide a brief description of how it played out.
> 
> ...


you did a really nice job here lenny, your cabinet building skills are top notch and im glad to see this is a digital free project....and as ellen has said, the saw is really nice too.


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## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

Lenny said:


> *Cabinet Construction*
> 
> In Fine Woodworking magazine's Winter 2014 Tool & Shops annual issue, Robert O'Brien shared his various shop work stations, including a chop saw station. As I studied it, I came to really like it, and decided to build one identical to it. It incorporates a shelf for the miter saw, flanked by a set of two base cabinets. There is a lot of work involved in this build and after a good start; I decided to post this as a blog series. If done timely, the first post would have shown cabinet construction. Since I am already past that, I will provide a brief description of how it played out.
> 
> ...


Looks great, I agree it makes using the saw so much easier


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## matt1970 (Mar 28, 2007)

Lenny said:


> *Cabinet Construction*
> 
> In Fine Woodworking magazine's Winter 2014 Tool & Shops annual issue, Robert O'Brien shared his various shop work stations, including a chop saw station. As I studied it, I came to really like it, and decided to build one identical to it. It incorporates a shelf for the miter saw, flanked by a set of two base cabinets. There is a lot of work involved in this build and after a good start; I decided to post this as a blog series. If done timely, the first post would have shown cabinet construction. Since I am already past that, I will provide a brief description of how it played out.
> 
> ...


really nice!


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

Lenny said:


> *Cabinet Construction*
> 
> In Fine Woodworking magazine's Winter 2014 Tool & Shops annual issue, Robert O'Brien shared his various shop work stations, including a chop saw station. As I studied it, I came to really like it, and decided to build one identical to it. It incorporates a shelf for the miter saw, flanked by a set of two base cabinets. There is a lot of work involved in this build and after a good start; I decided to post this as a blog series. If done timely, the first post would have shown cabinet construction. Since I am already past that, I will provide a brief description of how it played out.
> 
> ...


Great build on a very useful project. The cabinets and face frames came out great.


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## HarleySoftailDeuce (Jan 14, 2009)

Lenny said:


> *Cabinet Construction*
> 
> In Fine Woodworking magazine's Winter 2014 Tool & Shops annual issue, Robert O'Brien shared his various shop work stations, including a chop saw station. As I studied it, I came to really like it, and decided to build one identical to it. It incorporates a shelf for the miter saw, flanked by a set of two base cabinets. There is a lot of work involved in this build and after a good start; I decided to post this as a blog series. If done timely, the first post would have shown cabinet construction. Since I am already past that, I will provide a brief description of how it played out.
> 
> ...


Nice Level surfaces….you probably used angle iron with tapped set screws to do the leveling…am I right?
I'll be bringing over all my projects for my cuts now that you have that great station!!!!!

Paul


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## runswithscissors (Nov 8, 2012)

Lenny said:


> *Cabinet Construction*
> 
> In Fine Woodworking magazine's Winter 2014 Tool & Shops annual issue, Robert O'Brien shared his various shop work stations, including a chop saw station. As I studied it, I came to really like it, and decided to build one identical to it. It incorporates a shelf for the miter saw, flanked by a set of two base cabinets. There is a lot of work involved in this build and after a good start; I decided to post this as a blog series. If done timely, the first post would have shown cabinet construction. Since I am already past that, I will provide a brief description of how it played out.
> 
> ...


So how do you like that Bosch Glide?


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## Lenny (Sep 28, 2008)

Lenny said:


> *Cabinet Construction*
> 
> In Fine Woodworking magazine's Winter 2014 Tool & Shops annual issue, Robert O'Brien shared his various shop work stations, including a chop saw station. As I studied it, I came to really like it, and decided to build one identical to it. It incorporates a shelf for the miter saw, flanked by a set of two base cabinets. There is a lot of work involved in this build and after a good start; I decided to post this as a blog series. If done timely, the first post would have shown cabinet construction. Since I am already past that, I will provide a brief description of how it played out.
> 
> ...


Thanks guys. Paul, how did you ever guess? *runwithscissors*, I haven't used the saw a lot yet but it seems to be a dream miter saw. I threw in a 90-tooth Forrest blade and it cuts beautifully. The chopping and sliding actions are flawless and leave wonderfully smooth end grain. So far, no regrets…just smiles.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Lenny said:


> *Cabinet Construction*
> 
> In Fine Woodworking magazine's Winter 2014 Tool & Shops annual issue, Robert O'Brien shared his various shop work stations, including a chop saw station. As I studied it, I came to really like it, and decided to build one identical to it. It incorporates a shelf for the miter saw, flanked by a set of two base cabinets. There is a lot of work involved in this build and after a good start; I decided to post this as a blog series. If done timely, the first post would have shown cabinet construction. Since I am already past that, I will provide a brief description of how it played out.
> 
> ...


Nice setup Lenny.


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## moonls (Mar 23, 2010)

Lenny said:


> *Cabinet Construction*
> 
> In Fine Woodworking magazine's Winter 2014 Tool & Shops annual issue, Robert O'Brien shared his various shop work stations, including a chop saw station. As I studied it, I came to really like it, and decided to build one identical to it. It incorporates a shelf for the miter saw, flanked by a set of two base cabinets. There is a lot of work involved in this build and after a good start; I decided to post this as a blog series. If done timely, the first post would have shown cabinet construction. Since I am already past that, I will provide a brief description of how it played out.
> 
> ...


You're off to a great start Lenny! You'll have a lot of storage space as well as in feed & Out feed tables for your miter saw.


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## Lenny (Sep 28, 2008)

Lenny said:


> *Cabinet Construction*
> 
> In Fine Woodworking magazine's Winter 2014 Tool & Shops annual issue, Robert O'Brien shared his various shop work stations, including a chop saw station. As I studied it, I came to really like it, and decided to build one identical to it. It incorporates a shelf for the miter saw, flanked by a set of two base cabinets. There is a lot of work involved in this build and after a good start; I decided to post this as a blog series. If done timely, the first post would have shown cabinet construction. Since I am already past that, I will provide a brief description of how it played out.
> 
> ...


Thanks Lorna.


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## Fireball (Apr 7, 2007)

Lenny said:


> *Cabinet Construction*
> 
> In Fine Woodworking magazine's Winter 2014 Tool & Shops annual issue, Robert O'Brien shared his various shop work stations, including a chop saw station. As I studied it, I came to really like it, and decided to build one identical to it. It incorporates a shelf for the miter saw, flanked by a set of two base cabinets. There is a lot of work involved in this build and after a good start; I decided to post this as a blog series. If done timely, the first post would have shown cabinet construction. Since I am already past that, I will provide a brief description of how it played out.
> 
> ...


Is that the 10 or 12" new Bosch? I have an older 12" slider Bosch that I really like. I have it on the portable stand and want to build a saw station for it like yours but am hesistant to do so because it would have to stick out so far from the wall.

I might put my saw up for sale and see if I can get a few bucks for it to put towards the new hinged Bosch.


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## Lenny (Sep 28, 2008)

Lenny said:


> *Cabinet Construction*
> 
> In Fine Woodworking magazine's Winter 2014 Tool & Shops annual issue, Robert O'Brien shared his various shop work stations, including a chop saw station. As I studied it, I came to really like it, and decided to build one identical to it. It incorporates a shelf for the miter saw, flanked by a set of two base cabinets. There is a lot of work involved in this build and after a good start; I decided to post this as a blog series. If done timely, the first post would have shown cabinet construction. Since I am already past that, I will provide a brief description of how it played out.
> 
> ...


It's the 12" miter saw.


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## Lenny (Sep 28, 2008)

*The Shelf*

With the cabinets in place, I turned my attention to the shelf that would be placed between them, on which the saw will sit. Because I had some questions about attachment of the fence, I contacted Fine Woodworking magazine and obtained Bob O'Brien's e-mail address. I asked him for specific info regarding the fence. He sent back a detailed response that included how he made and installed the shelf. Bob made his from a buildup of ¾" MDF and phenolic plywood and wrapped it in a border of solid maple. To jump ahead a bit, the counter tops are made the same way. Phenolic plywood (available at Woodcraft and Rockler) is not cheap. I planned to make the counter tops from it but decided to cut my expenses a bit by not using it on the shelf. After all, the saw simply sits on the shelf. The counter tops will be what take a beating. Instead, I used two layers of MDF, painted it and once the maple border was attached, I used spray can polyurethane to finish it. The shelf is roughly 35" wide and 21" deep. I left room at the back for a dust collection hose.










The saw has to sit on the shelf such that the bed is level with the finished counter tops. Here is the method Bob used and that I (for the most part) followed: I used 1-1/2×1-1/2 inch steel angle iron bolted to each of the side cabinets. The horizontal leg of the angle iron sits roughly ¼-inch below the bottom of the presumed location of the saw platform. Four ¼-20 hex socket cap screws are located in each angle iron. The two outer screws are for leveling and the angle iron is tapped for the screws to thread into. The two inner cap screws are to secure the shelf. They go through untapped holes in the angle iron and into threaded inserts recessed into the shelf bottom. You bolt the saw to the shelf, position the saw and shelf front-to-back, level it with the four outboard screws and finally, lock it in place with the four inboard screws into the inserts. I added a nut to jam against the angle iron and hold the cap screw in place. I had never tapped for screws so I contacted my buddy Paul. He is a fellow LJ (*Harleysofttaildeuce*). Paul is a machinist. He visited my shop with tapping tools in hand. With, the "feed a man a fish…teach a man to fish" theory in mind, he tapped the first hole, then taught me how to do the rest. Thank you Paul.



















I am going to stop here and cover the counter tops in my next blog.


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

Lenny said:


> *The Shelf*
> 
> With the cabinets in place, I turned my attention to the shelf that would be placed between them, on which the saw will sit. Because I had some questions about attachment of the fence, I contacted Fine Woodworking magazine and obtained Bob O'Brien's e-mail address. I asked him for specific info regarding the fence. He sent back a detailed response that included how he made and installed the shelf. Bob made his from a buildup of ¾" MDF and phenolic plywood and wrapped it in a border of solid maple. To jump ahead a bit, the counter tops are made the same way. Phenolic plywood (available at Woodcraft and Rockler) is not cheap. I planned to make the counter tops from it but decided to cut my expenses a bit by not using it on the shelf. After all, the saw simply sits on the shelf. The counter tops will be what take a beating. Instead, I used two layers of MDF, painted it and once the maple border was attached, I used spray can polyurethane to finish it. The shelf is roughly 35" wide and 21" deep. I left room at the back for a dust collection hose.
> 
> ...


coming allong nicely lenny

i have a similar build for my saw too
but rather than bolting the saw itself to the shelf
i got it secure with corner stop blocks
so i can remove the saw
for job site use

then just drop it back in
when i need it in the shop


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## Woodenwizard (Jan 25, 2010)

Lenny said:


> *The Shelf*
> 
> With the cabinets in place, I turned my attention to the shelf that would be placed between them, on which the saw will sit. Because I had some questions about attachment of the fence, I contacted Fine Woodworking magazine and obtained Bob O'Brien's e-mail address. I asked him for specific info regarding the fence. He sent back a detailed response that included how he made and installed the shelf. Bob made his from a buildup of ¾" MDF and phenolic plywood and wrapped it in a border of solid maple. To jump ahead a bit, the counter tops are made the same way. Phenolic plywood (available at Woodcraft and Rockler) is not cheap. I planned to make the counter tops from it but decided to cut my expenses a bit by not using it on the shelf. After all, the saw simply sits on the shelf. The counter tops will be what take a beating. Instead, I used two layers of MDF, painted it and once the maple border was attached, I used spray can polyurethane to finish it. The shelf is roughly 35" wide and 21" deep. I left room at the back for a dust collection hose.
> 
> ...


Lenny, I love your work. Great Looking. Can't wait to see the rest.
Need to come out for a visit soon.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Lenny said:


> *The Shelf*
> 
> With the cabinets in place, I turned my attention to the shelf that would be placed between them, on which the saw will sit. Because I had some questions about attachment of the fence, I contacted Fine Woodworking magazine and obtained Bob O'Brien's e-mail address. I asked him for specific info regarding the fence. He sent back a detailed response that included how he made and installed the shelf. Bob made his from a buildup of ¾" MDF and phenolic plywood and wrapped it in a border of solid maple. To jump ahead a bit, the counter tops are made the same way. Phenolic plywood (available at Woodcraft and Rockler) is not cheap. I planned to make the counter tops from it but decided to cut my expenses a bit by not using it on the shelf. After all, the saw simply sits on the shelf. The counter tops will be what take a beating. Instead, I used two layers of MDF, painted it and once the maple border was attached, I used spray can polyurethane to finish it. The shelf is roughly 35" wide and 21" deep. I left room at the back for a dust collection hose.
> 
> ...


Gonna be a nice miter station


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## Lenny (Sep 28, 2008)

Lenny said:


> *The Shelf*
> 
> With the cabinets in place, I turned my attention to the shelf that would be placed between them, on which the saw will sit. Because I had some questions about attachment of the fence, I contacted Fine Woodworking magazine and obtained Bob O'Brien's e-mail address. I asked him for specific info regarding the fence. He sent back a detailed response that included how he made and installed the shelf. Bob made his from a buildup of ¾" MDF and phenolic plywood and wrapped it in a border of solid maple. To jump ahead a bit, the counter tops are made the same way. Phenolic plywood (available at Woodcraft and Rockler) is not cheap. I planned to make the counter tops from it but decided to cut my expenses a bit by not using it on the shelf. After all, the saw simply sits on the shelf. The counter tops will be what take a beating. Instead, I used two layers of MDF, painted it and once the maple border was attached, I used spray can polyurethane to finish it. The shelf is roughly 35" wide and 21" deep. I left room at the back for a dust collection hose.
> 
> ...


Thanks David. Nice that you made yours portable. This saw is a beast, at least in terms of weight. I have no intention to bring IT to a job. The job will have to come to it. Thank you John and Roger.


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## blackcherry (Dec 7, 2007)

Lenny said:


> *The Shelf*
> 
> With the cabinets in place, I turned my attention to the shelf that would be placed between them, on which the saw will sit. Because I had some questions about attachment of the fence, I contacted Fine Woodworking magazine and obtained Bob O'Brien's e-mail address. I asked him for specific info regarding the fence. He sent back a detailed response that included how he made and installed the shelf. Bob made his from a buildup of ¾" MDF and phenolic plywood and wrapped it in a border of solid maple. To jump ahead a bit, the counter tops are made the same way. Phenolic plywood (available at Woodcraft and Rockler) is not cheap. I planned to make the counter tops from it but decided to cut my expenses a bit by not using it on the shelf. After all, the saw simply sits on the shelf. The counter tops will be what take a beating. Instead, I used two layers of MDF, painted it and once the maple border was attached, I used spray can polyurethane to finish it. The shelf is roughly 35" wide and 21" deep. I left room at the back for a dust collection hose.
> 
> ...


Lenny nice work on your miter station and agree on how heavy this saw is since I have the same beast. I do have to take it to job site once in awhile for larger size crown molding installation. Great work on the extra storage units can never have enough, enjoy your new station… BC


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## Lenny (Sep 28, 2008)

Lenny said:


> *The Shelf*
> 
> With the cabinets in place, I turned my attention to the shelf that would be placed between them, on which the saw will sit. Because I had some questions about attachment of the fence, I contacted Fine Woodworking magazine and obtained Bob O'Brien's e-mail address. I asked him for specific info regarding the fence. He sent back a detailed response that included how he made and installed the shelf. Bob made his from a buildup of ¾" MDF and phenolic plywood and wrapped it in a border of solid maple. To jump ahead a bit, the counter tops are made the same way. Phenolic plywood (available at Woodcraft and Rockler) is not cheap. I planned to make the counter tops from it but decided to cut my expenses a bit by not using it on the shelf. After all, the saw simply sits on the shelf. The counter tops will be what take a beating. Instead, I used two layers of MDF, painted it and once the maple border was attached, I used spray can polyurethane to finish it. The shelf is roughly 35" wide and 21" deep. I left room at the back for a dust collection hose.
> 
> ...


Hi Wilson. Thank you.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

Lenny said:


> *The Shelf*
> 
> With the cabinets in place, I turned my attention to the shelf that would be placed between them, on which the saw will sit. Because I had some questions about attachment of the fence, I contacted Fine Woodworking magazine and obtained Bob O'Brien's e-mail address. I asked him for specific info regarding the fence. He sent back a detailed response that included how he made and installed the shelf. Bob made his from a buildup of ¾" MDF and phenolic plywood and wrapped it in a border of solid maple. To jump ahead a bit, the counter tops are made the same way. Phenolic plywood (available at Woodcraft and Rockler) is not cheap. I planned to make the counter tops from it but decided to cut my expenses a bit by not using it on the shelf. After all, the saw simply sits on the shelf. The counter tops will be what take a beating. Instead, I used two layers of MDF, painted it and once the maple border was attached, I used spray can polyurethane to finish it. The shelf is roughly 35" wide and 21" deep. I left room at the back for a dust collection hose.
> 
> ...


Nice work. Interesting blog. You must be planning on seem serious WW ;-)


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## Lenny (Sep 28, 2008)

Lenny said:


> *The Shelf*
> 
> With the cabinets in place, I turned my attention to the shelf that would be placed between them, on which the saw will sit. Because I had some questions about attachment of the fence, I contacted Fine Woodworking magazine and obtained Bob O'Brien's e-mail address. I asked him for specific info regarding the fence. He sent back a detailed response that included how he made and installed the shelf. Bob made his from a buildup of ¾" MDF and phenolic plywood and wrapped it in a border of solid maple. To jump ahead a bit, the counter tops are made the same way. Phenolic plywood (available at Woodcraft and Rockler) is not cheap. I planned to make the counter tops from it but decided to cut my expenses a bit by not using it on the shelf. After all, the saw simply sits on the shelf. The counter tops will be what take a beating. Instead, I used two layers of MDF, painted it and once the maple border was attached, I used spray can polyurethane to finish it. The shelf is roughly 35" wide and 21" deep. I left room at the back for a dust collection hose.
> 
> ...


Thanks Bob. I don't know that my future woodworking will be any more serious than my past. I just saw the potential of the space and I am seeking to maximize it.


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## matt1970 (Mar 28, 2007)

Lenny said:


> *The Shelf*
> 
> With the cabinets in place, I turned my attention to the shelf that would be placed between them, on which the saw will sit. Because I had some questions about attachment of the fence, I contacted Fine Woodworking magazine and obtained Bob O'Brien's e-mail address. I asked him for specific info regarding the fence. He sent back a detailed response that included how he made and installed the shelf. Bob made his from a buildup of ¾" MDF and phenolic plywood and wrapped it in a border of solid maple. To jump ahead a bit, the counter tops are made the same way. Phenolic plywood (available at Woodcraft and Rockler) is not cheap. I planned to make the counter tops from it but decided to cut my expenses a bit by not using it on the shelf. After all, the saw simply sits on the shelf. The counter tops will be what take a beating. Instead, I used two layers of MDF, painted it and once the maple border was attached, I used spray can polyurethane to finish it. The shelf is roughly 35" wide and 21" deep. I left room at the back for a dust collection hose.
> 
> ...


looking good…


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## Lenny (Sep 28, 2008)

*Counter Tops*

As noted in my previous post, the counter tops consist of a layer of MDF topped off with phenolic plywood. T-track runs the length of the countertop and is the means by which the fence system will be held in place. I purchased Woodpecker's DP (dual purpose) track. The underside has a single centered t-slot that accepts ¼ inch hex bolts. Rather than rout the channel for the t-track, I cut the phenolic ply to fit around the track. Since the track is only ½ inch thick, you have to add a spacer to bring it to counter top level. Here's a photo to show what I have described (minus the spacer).










With the saw sitting on the installed shelf in the approximate location it will sit, I placed a straight edge against the saw's fence and extended it over the counter top and made a mark. That is exactly where the front edge of the track must fall. I continued taking precise measurements and then cut the rear pieces of phenolic ply to size. I attached these pieces to the MDF using hot melt glue to hold them in place so I could turn them over and nail them from below. Next, I glued and nailed the spacer for under the t-track alongside the rear phenolic ply. At this stage I placed the unit on top of the cabinet exactly where it would sit and drilled holes precisely where the ¼-20 hex bolts would go. I drilled through the spacer, the MDF and the cabinet tops. I placed bolts in the t-track, slid the t-track in place and assured a snug fit. Now I measured for the front pieces of phenolic ply, cut those and glued and nailed them just as I did the rear pieces. All that was left was to wrap the unit in solid maple and polyurethane the maple.





































Next up: The fence system. Hint: Kreg does more than pocket hole jigs.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Lenny said:


> *Counter Tops*
> 
> As noted in my previous post, the counter tops consist of a layer of MDF topped off with phenolic plywood. T-track runs the length of the countertop and is the means by which the fence system will be held in place. I purchased Woodpecker's DP (dual purpose) track. The underside has a single centered t-slot that accepts ¼ inch hex bolts. Rather than rout the channel for the t-track, I cut the phenolic ply to fit around the track. Since the track is only ½ inch thick, you have to add a spacer to bring it to counter top level. Here's a photo to show what I have described (minus the spacer).
> 
> ...


Very snazzy miter station Lenny


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

Lenny said:


> *Counter Tops*
> 
> As noted in my previous post, the counter tops consist of a layer of MDF topped off with phenolic plywood. T-track runs the length of the countertop and is the means by which the fence system will be held in place. I purchased Woodpecker's DP (dual purpose) track. The underside has a single centered t-slot that accepts ¼ inch hex bolts. Rather than rout the channel for the t-track, I cut the phenolic ply to fit around the track. Since the track is only ½ inch thick, you have to add a spacer to bring it to counter top level. Here's a photo to show what I have described (minus the spacer).
> 
> ...


now just wait here lenny…this is going to be some sort of new generation saw system, im running a simple star fleet command here and your going for light speed….lol…enjoy it, nothing like using a good tool with good accessories…


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## goggy (Jan 17, 2009)

Lenny said:


> *Counter Tops*
> 
> As noted in my previous post, the counter tops consist of a layer of MDF topped off with phenolic plywood. T-track runs the length of the countertop and is the means by which the fence system will be held in place. I purchased Woodpecker's DP (dual purpose) track. The underside has a single centered t-slot that accepts ¼ inch hex bolts. Rather than rout the channel for the t-track, I cut the phenolic ply to fit around the track. Since the track is only ½ inch thick, you have to add a spacer to bring it to counter top level. Here's a photo to show what I have described (minus the spacer).
> 
> ...


You'll like the phenolic ply. I have it on my router table.


----------



## Lenny (Sep 28, 2008)

Lenny said:


> *Counter Tops*
> 
> As noted in my previous post, the counter tops consist of a layer of MDF topped off with phenolic plywood. T-track runs the length of the countertop and is the means by which the fence system will be held in place. I purchased Woodpecker's DP (dual purpose) track. The underside has a single centered t-slot that accepts ¼ inch hex bolts. Rather than rout the channel for the t-track, I cut the phenolic ply to fit around the track. Since the track is only ½ inch thick, you have to add a spacer to bring it to counter top level. Here's a photo to show what I have described (minus the spacer).
> 
> ...


Thanks guys. *goggy*, I've used the product once before on an auxiliary fence for my table saw. It's wonderful stuff…slick and durable.


----------



## aussiedave (May 28, 2013)

Lenny said:


> *Counter Tops*
> 
> As noted in my previous post, the counter tops consist of a layer of MDF topped off with phenolic plywood. T-track runs the length of the countertop and is the means by which the fence system will be held in place. I purchased Woodpecker's DP (dual purpose) track. The underside has a single centered t-slot that accepts ¼ inch hex bolts. Rather than rout the channel for the t-track, I cut the phenolic ply to fit around the track. Since the track is only ½ inch thick, you have to add a spacer to bring it to counter top level. Here's a photo to show what I have described (minus the spacer).
> 
> ...


Very nice counter tops and Mitre saw work station, your doing an excellent job. Sure wish I could get phenolic ply here. I have enquired at all the hardware and wood suppliers and they look at me like I have two heads. Any wya that saw station is a great addition to the workshop. Thanks for posting.


----------



## Lenny (Sep 28, 2008)

Lenny said:


> *Counter Tops*
> 
> As noted in my previous post, the counter tops consist of a layer of MDF topped off with phenolic plywood. T-track runs the length of the countertop and is the means by which the fence system will be held in place. I purchased Woodpecker's DP (dual purpose) track. The underside has a single centered t-slot that accepts ¼ inch hex bolts. Rather than rout the channel for the t-track, I cut the phenolic ply to fit around the track. Since the track is only ½ inch thick, you have to add a spacer to bring it to counter top level. Here's a photo to show what I have described (minus the spacer).
> 
> ...


Thanks Dave.


----------



## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

Lenny said:


> *Counter Tops*
> 
> As noted in my previous post, the counter tops consist of a layer of MDF topped off with phenolic plywood. T-track runs the length of the countertop and is the means by which the fence system will be held in place. I purchased Woodpecker's DP (dual purpose) track. The underside has a single centered t-slot that accepts ¼ inch hex bolts. Rather than rout the channel for the t-track, I cut the phenolic ply to fit around the track. Since the track is only ½ inch thick, you have to add a spacer to bring it to counter top level. Here's a photo to show what I have described (minus the spacer).
> 
> ...


Great table top


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## blackcherry (Dec 7, 2007)

Lenny said:


> *Counter Tops*
> 
> As noted in my previous post, the counter tops consist of a layer of MDF topped off with phenolic plywood. T-track runs the length of the countertop and is the means by which the fence system will be held in place. I purchased Woodpecker's DP (dual purpose) track. The underside has a single centered t-slot that accepts ¼ inch hex bolts. Rather than rout the channel for the t-track, I cut the phenolic ply to fit around the track. Since the track is only ½ inch thick, you have to add a spacer to bring it to counter top level. Here's a photo to show what I have described (minus the spacer).
> 
> ...


Could service as a pub as well ha ha, looking sharp!


----------



## Lenny (Sep 28, 2008)

Lenny said:


> *Counter Tops*
> 
> As noted in my previous post, the counter tops consist of a layer of MDF topped off with phenolic plywood. T-track runs the length of the countertop and is the means by which the fence system will be held in place. I purchased Woodpecker's DP (dual purpose) track. The underside has a single centered t-slot that accepts ¼ inch hex bolts. Rather than rout the channel for the t-track, I cut the phenolic ply to fit around the track. Since the track is only ½ inch thick, you have to add a spacer to bring it to counter top level. Here's a photo to show what I have described (minus the spacer).
> 
> ...


Thanks, Norman. Wilson, that's a clever and devious idea!


----------



## matt1970 (Mar 28, 2007)

Lenny said:


> *Counter Tops*
> 
> As noted in my previous post, the counter tops consist of a layer of MDF topped off with phenolic plywood. T-track runs the length of the countertop and is the means by which the fence system will be held in place. I purchased Woodpecker's DP (dual purpose) track. The underside has a single centered t-slot that accepts ¼ inch hex bolts. Rather than rout the channel for the t-track, I cut the phenolic ply to fit around the track. Since the track is only ½ inch thick, you have to add a spacer to bring it to counter top level. Here's a photo to show what I have described (minus the spacer).
> 
> ...


smooooooooth….


----------



## Lenny (Sep 28, 2008)

Lenny said:


> *Counter Tops*
> 
> As noted in my previous post, the counter tops consist of a layer of MDF topped off with phenolic plywood. T-track runs the length of the countertop and is the means by which the fence system will be held in place. I purchased Woodpecker's DP (dual purpose) track. The underside has a single centered t-slot that accepts ¼ inch hex bolts. Rather than rout the channel for the t-track, I cut the phenolic ply to fit around the track. Since the track is only ½ inch thick, you have to add a spacer to bring it to counter top level. Here's a photo to show what I have described (minus the spacer).
> 
> ...


Thanks for the comments Matt.


----------



## Lenny (Sep 28, 2008)

*The Fence System*

I opted for the Kreg Precision Trak and Stop System for my miter saw fence. I attended the New England Woodworking Show in January and Peachtree was selling the system at a discount that put the price lower than any I had seen so I bought it. When I opened it up the other day, there were no instructions inside. A call to Kreg customer service took care of that quickly. The tech apologized and then helped me navigate their website to find and print the instruction sheet. The system comes with 8 feet of track, in two feet lengths. It also has a flip stop, production stop and adhesive measuring tape, one left to right and one right to left. Although my counter top is 54 inches on each side, the fence is 48 inches to match the track. You have to make the height of the fence exactly 2-1/4 inches in order for the stops to work correctly. I made my fence from 3/4-inch Baltic birch. It's simply two pieces joined at a right angle with glue and brads. I put two coats of polyurethane on it. I drilled holes in the horizontal leg for hex bolts that sit in the Woodpecker DP track to hold the fence in place with knobs. When I bought knobs for the fence, I purchased star knobs and they are too big. I have to swap them out for smaller ones. The track sits on top of the fence and is attached with supplied wood screws. You first have to drill the track. Kreg milled a score line along the back of the track as a drill guide. Once the track is attached, you place the fence exactly where it will sit and using a scrap board milled to exactly 24 inches long and 3 inches tall, you butt the board against the saw blade. Using an accurate square, you mark a line on the track. The cursor mark on the stops is offset by 3/8-inch. You align 24-3/8 inches on the tape measure with your pencil mark and adhere the tape the entire length of your fence. Fine adjustments can be made by moving the cursor slightly. Based on where my fence sits on the counter top, I can use the tape measure to about 66 inches. If I need to go beyond that, I can fit and cut up to 10 feet to the right of the blade and just under 7 feet to the left. These cuts will have to be measured with a hand held tape measure.














































All that's left is drawers and doors. I believe it will be awhile before the next post.


----------



## ellen35 (Jan 1, 2009)

Lenny said:


> *The Fence System*
> 
> I opted for the Kreg Precision Trak and Stop System for my miter saw fence. I attended the New England Woodworking Show in January and Peachtree was selling the system at a discount that put the price lower than any I had seen so I bought it. When I opened it up the other day, there were no instructions inside. A call to Kreg customer service took care of that quickly. The tech apologized and then helped me navigate their website to find and print the instruction sheet. The system comes with 8 feet of track, in two feet lengths. It also has a flip stop, production stop and adhesive measuring tape, one left to right and one right to left. Although my counter top is 54 inches on each side, the fence is 48 inches to match the track. You have to make the height of the fence exactly 2-1/4 inches in order for the stops to work correctly. I made my fence from 3/4-inch Baltic birch. It's simply two pieces joined at a right angle with glue and brads. I put two coats of polyurethane on it. I drilled holes in the horizontal leg for hex bolts that sit in the Woodpecker DP track to hold the fence in place with knobs. When I bought knobs for the fence, I purchased star knobs and they are too big. I have to swap them out for smaller ones. The track sits on top of the fence and is attached with supplied wood screws. You first have to drill the track. Kreg milled a score line along the back of the track as a drill guide. Once the track is attached, you place the fence exactly where it will sit and using a scrap board milled to exactly 24 inches long and 3 inches tall, you butt the board against the saw blade. Using an accurate square, you mark a line on the track. The cursor mark on the stops is offset by 3/8-inch. You align 24-3/8 inches on the tape measure with your pencil mark and adhere the tape the entire length of your fence. Fine adjustments can be made by moving the cursor slightly. Based on where my fence sits on the counter top, I can use the tape measure to about 66 inches. If I need to go beyond that, I can fit and cut up to 10 feet to the right of the blade and just under 7 feet to the left. These cuts will have to be measured with a hand held tape measure.
> 
> ...


Nice work, Lenny.
You are so neat!


----------



## vikingcape (Jan 3, 2013)

Lenny said:


> *The Fence System*
> 
> I opted for the Kreg Precision Trak and Stop System for my miter saw fence. I attended the New England Woodworking Show in January and Peachtree was selling the system at a discount that put the price lower than any I had seen so I bought it. When I opened it up the other day, there were no instructions inside. A call to Kreg customer service took care of that quickly. The tech apologized and then helped me navigate their website to find and print the instruction sheet. The system comes with 8 feet of track, in two feet lengths. It also has a flip stop, production stop and adhesive measuring tape, one left to right and one right to left. Although my counter top is 54 inches on each side, the fence is 48 inches to match the track. You have to make the height of the fence exactly 2-1/4 inches in order for the stops to work correctly. I made my fence from 3/4-inch Baltic birch. It's simply two pieces joined at a right angle with glue and brads. I put two coats of polyurethane on it. I drilled holes in the horizontal leg for hex bolts that sit in the Woodpecker DP track to hold the fence in place with knobs. When I bought knobs for the fence, I purchased star knobs and they are too big. I have to swap them out for smaller ones. The track sits on top of the fence and is attached with supplied wood screws. You first have to drill the track. Kreg milled a score line along the back of the track as a drill guide. Once the track is attached, you place the fence exactly where it will sit and using a scrap board milled to exactly 24 inches long and 3 inches tall, you butt the board against the saw blade. Using an accurate square, you mark a line on the track. The cursor mark on the stops is offset by 3/8-inch. You align 24-3/8 inches on the tape measure with your pencil mark and adhere the tape the entire length of your fence. Fine adjustments can be made by moving the cursor slightly. Based on where my fence sits on the counter top, I can use the tape measure to about 66 inches. If I need to go beyond that, I can fit and cut up to 10 feet to the right of the blade and just under 7 feet to the left. These cuts will have to be measured with a hand held tape measure.
> 
> ...


That is really nice work. I'm really jealous of that saw, and the room you have for it


----------



## Woodenwizard (Jan 25, 2010)

Lenny said:


> *The Fence System*
> 
> I opted for the Kreg Precision Trak and Stop System for my miter saw fence. I attended the New England Woodworking Show in January and Peachtree was selling the system at a discount that put the price lower than any I had seen so I bought it. When I opened it up the other day, there were no instructions inside. A call to Kreg customer service took care of that quickly. The tech apologized and then helped me navigate their website to find and print the instruction sheet. The system comes with 8 feet of track, in two feet lengths. It also has a flip stop, production stop and adhesive measuring tape, one left to right and one right to left. Although my counter top is 54 inches on each side, the fence is 48 inches to match the track. You have to make the height of the fence exactly 2-1/4 inches in order for the stops to work correctly. I made my fence from 3/4-inch Baltic birch. It's simply two pieces joined at a right angle with glue and brads. I put two coats of polyurethane on it. I drilled holes in the horizontal leg for hex bolts that sit in the Woodpecker DP track to hold the fence in place with knobs. When I bought knobs for the fence, I purchased star knobs and they are too big. I have to swap them out for smaller ones. The track sits on top of the fence and is attached with supplied wood screws. You first have to drill the track. Kreg milled a score line along the back of the track as a drill guide. Once the track is attached, you place the fence exactly where it will sit and using a scrap board milled to exactly 24 inches long and 3 inches tall, you butt the board against the saw blade. Using an accurate square, you mark a line on the track. The cursor mark on the stops is offset by 3/8-inch. You align 24-3/8 inches on the tape measure with your pencil mark and adhere the tape the entire length of your fence. Fine adjustments can be made by moving the cursor slightly. Based on where my fence sits on the counter top, I can use the tape measure to about 66 inches. If I need to go beyond that, I can fit and cut up to 10 feet to the right of the blade and just under 7 feet to the left. These cuts will have to be measured with a hand held tape measure.
> 
> ...


OK Lenny. If I keep looking at your post of this Great Miter Saw Station, I will be convinced to redo mine. This is Great! Have you had a chance to put it into use yet? Look forward to seeing it in person.


----------



## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

Lenny said:


> *The Fence System*
> 
> I opted for the Kreg Precision Trak and Stop System for my miter saw fence. I attended the New England Woodworking Show in January and Peachtree was selling the system at a discount that put the price lower than any I had seen so I bought it. When I opened it up the other day, there were no instructions inside. A call to Kreg customer service took care of that quickly. The tech apologized and then helped me navigate their website to find and print the instruction sheet. The system comes with 8 feet of track, in two feet lengths. It also has a flip stop, production stop and adhesive measuring tape, one left to right and one right to left. Although my counter top is 54 inches on each side, the fence is 48 inches to match the track. You have to make the height of the fence exactly 2-1/4 inches in order for the stops to work correctly. I made my fence from 3/4-inch Baltic birch. It's simply two pieces joined at a right angle with glue and brads. I put two coats of polyurethane on it. I drilled holes in the horizontal leg for hex bolts that sit in the Woodpecker DP track to hold the fence in place with knobs. When I bought knobs for the fence, I purchased star knobs and they are too big. I have to swap them out for smaller ones. The track sits on top of the fence and is attached with supplied wood screws. You first have to drill the track. Kreg milled a score line along the back of the track as a drill guide. Once the track is attached, you place the fence exactly where it will sit and using a scrap board milled to exactly 24 inches long and 3 inches tall, you butt the board against the saw blade. Using an accurate square, you mark a line on the track. The cursor mark on the stops is offset by 3/8-inch. You align 24-3/8 inches on the tape measure with your pencil mark and adhere the tape the entire length of your fence. Fine adjustments can be made by moving the cursor slightly. Based on where my fence sits on the counter top, I can use the tape measure to about 66 inches. If I need to go beyond that, I can fit and cut up to 10 feet to the right of the blade and just under 7 feet to the left. These cuts will have to be measured with a hand held tape measure.
> 
> ...


Real nice job, Lenny

Lee


----------



## Lenny (Sep 28, 2008)

Lenny said:


> *The Fence System*
> 
> I opted for the Kreg Precision Trak and Stop System for my miter saw fence. I attended the New England Woodworking Show in January and Peachtree was selling the system at a discount that put the price lower than any I had seen so I bought it. When I opened it up the other day, there were no instructions inside. A call to Kreg customer service took care of that quickly. The tech apologized and then helped me navigate their website to find and print the instruction sheet. The system comes with 8 feet of track, in two feet lengths. It also has a flip stop, production stop and adhesive measuring tape, one left to right and one right to left. Although my counter top is 54 inches on each side, the fence is 48 inches to match the track. You have to make the height of the fence exactly 2-1/4 inches in order for the stops to work correctly. I made my fence from 3/4-inch Baltic birch. It's simply two pieces joined at a right angle with glue and brads. I put two coats of polyurethane on it. I drilled holes in the horizontal leg for hex bolts that sit in the Woodpecker DP track to hold the fence in place with knobs. When I bought knobs for the fence, I purchased star knobs and they are too big. I have to swap them out for smaller ones. The track sits on top of the fence and is attached with supplied wood screws. You first have to drill the track. Kreg milled a score line along the back of the track as a drill guide. Once the track is attached, you place the fence exactly where it will sit and using a scrap board milled to exactly 24 inches long and 3 inches tall, you butt the board against the saw blade. Using an accurate square, you mark a line on the track. The cursor mark on the stops is offset by 3/8-inch. You align 24-3/8 inches on the tape measure with your pencil mark and adhere the tape the entire length of your fence. Fine adjustments can be made by moving the cursor slightly. Based on where my fence sits on the counter top, I can use the tape measure to about 66 inches. If I need to go beyond that, I can fit and cut up to 10 feet to the right of the blade and just under 7 feet to the left. These cuts will have to be measured with a hand held tape measure.
> 
> ...


Thanks everyone. John, I have not used the station yet. I just installed the fence system yesterday. I have used the saw a several times. When you come east, bring some ten foot boards with you and we'll cut them to size. I'm certain they'll clear airport security with no problem.


----------



## moonls (Mar 23, 2010)

Lenny said:


> *The Fence System*
> 
> I opted for the Kreg Precision Trak and Stop System for my miter saw fence. I attended the New England Woodworking Show in January and Peachtree was selling the system at a discount that put the price lower than any I had seen so I bought it. When I opened it up the other day, there were no instructions inside. A call to Kreg customer service took care of that quickly. The tech apologized and then helped me navigate their website to find and print the instruction sheet. The system comes with 8 feet of track, in two feet lengths. It also has a flip stop, production stop and adhesive measuring tape, one left to right and one right to left. Although my counter top is 54 inches on each side, the fence is 48 inches to match the track. You have to make the height of the fence exactly 2-1/4 inches in order for the stops to work correctly. I made my fence from 3/4-inch Baltic birch. It's simply two pieces joined at a right angle with glue and brads. I put two coats of polyurethane on it. I drilled holes in the horizontal leg for hex bolts that sit in the Woodpecker DP track to hold the fence in place with knobs. When I bought knobs for the fence, I purchased star knobs and they are too big. I have to swap them out for smaller ones. The track sits on top of the fence and is attached with supplied wood screws. You first have to drill the track. Kreg milled a score line along the back of the track as a drill guide. Once the track is attached, you place the fence exactly where it will sit and using a scrap board milled to exactly 24 inches long and 3 inches tall, you butt the board against the saw blade. Using an accurate square, you mark a line on the track. The cursor mark on the stops is offset by 3/8-inch. You align 24-3/8 inches on the tape measure with your pencil mark and adhere the tape the entire length of your fence. Fine adjustments can be made by moving the cursor slightly. Based on where my fence sits on the counter top, I can use the tape measure to about 66 inches. If I need to go beyond that, I can fit and cut up to 10 feet to the right of the blade and just under 7 feet to the left. These cuts will have to be measured with a hand held tape measure.
> 
> ...


Even without the doors and drawers below, you've made a fine miter saw station Lenny! The final chapter will just be icing on the cake.


----------



## Lenny (Sep 28, 2008)

Lenny said:


> *The Fence System*
> 
> I opted for the Kreg Precision Trak and Stop System for my miter saw fence. I attended the New England Woodworking Show in January and Peachtree was selling the system at a discount that put the price lower than any I had seen so I bought it. When I opened it up the other day, there were no instructions inside. A call to Kreg customer service took care of that quickly. The tech apologized and then helped me navigate their website to find and print the instruction sheet. The system comes with 8 feet of track, in two feet lengths. It also has a flip stop, production stop and adhesive measuring tape, one left to right and one right to left. Although my counter top is 54 inches on each side, the fence is 48 inches to match the track. You have to make the height of the fence exactly 2-1/4 inches in order for the stops to work correctly. I made my fence from 3/4-inch Baltic birch. It's simply two pieces joined at a right angle with glue and brads. I put two coats of polyurethane on it. I drilled holes in the horizontal leg for hex bolts that sit in the Woodpecker DP track to hold the fence in place with knobs. When I bought knobs for the fence, I purchased star knobs and they are too big. I have to swap them out for smaller ones. The track sits on top of the fence and is attached with supplied wood screws. You first have to drill the track. Kreg milled a score line along the back of the track as a drill guide. Once the track is attached, you place the fence exactly where it will sit and using a scrap board milled to exactly 24 inches long and 3 inches tall, you butt the board against the saw blade. Using an accurate square, you mark a line on the track. The cursor mark on the stops is offset by 3/8-inch. You align 24-3/8 inches on the tape measure with your pencil mark and adhere the tape the entire length of your fence. Fine adjustments can be made by moving the cursor slightly. Based on where my fence sits on the counter top, I can use the tape measure to about 66 inches. If I need to go beyond that, I can fit and cut up to 10 feet to the right of the blade and just under 7 feet to the left. These cuts will have to be measured with a hand held tape measure.
> 
> ...


Thank you Lorna.


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Lenny said:


> *The Fence System*
> 
> I opted for the Kreg Precision Trak and Stop System for my miter saw fence. I attended the New England Woodworking Show in January and Peachtree was selling the system at a discount that put the price lower than any I had seen so I bought it. When I opened it up the other day, there were no instructions inside. A call to Kreg customer service took care of that quickly. The tech apologized and then helped me navigate their website to find and print the instruction sheet. The system comes with 8 feet of track, in two feet lengths. It also has a flip stop, production stop and adhesive measuring tape, one left to right and one right to left. Although my counter top is 54 inches on each side, the fence is 48 inches to match the track. You have to make the height of the fence exactly 2-1/4 inches in order for the stops to work correctly. I made my fence from 3/4-inch Baltic birch. It's simply two pieces joined at a right angle with glue and brads. I put two coats of polyurethane on it. I drilled holes in the horizontal leg for hex bolts that sit in the Woodpecker DP track to hold the fence in place with knobs. When I bought knobs for the fence, I purchased star knobs and they are too big. I have to swap them out for smaller ones. The track sits on top of the fence and is attached with supplied wood screws. You first have to drill the track. Kreg milled a score line along the back of the track as a drill guide. Once the track is attached, you place the fence exactly where it will sit and using a scrap board milled to exactly 24 inches long and 3 inches tall, you butt the board against the saw blade. Using an accurate square, you mark a line on the track. The cursor mark on the stops is offset by 3/8-inch. You align 24-3/8 inches on the tape measure with your pencil mark and adhere the tape the entire length of your fence. Fine adjustments can be made by moving the cursor slightly. Based on where my fence sits on the counter top, I can use the tape measure to about 66 inches. If I need to go beyond that, I can fit and cut up to 10 feet to the right of the blade and just under 7 feet to the left. These cuts will have to be measured with a hand held tape measure.
> 
> ...


Super nice setup Lenny.


----------



## Lenny (Sep 28, 2008)

Lenny said:


> *The Fence System*
> 
> I opted for the Kreg Precision Trak and Stop System for my miter saw fence. I attended the New England Woodworking Show in January and Peachtree was selling the system at a discount that put the price lower than any I had seen so I bought it. When I opened it up the other day, there were no instructions inside. A call to Kreg customer service took care of that quickly. The tech apologized and then helped me navigate their website to find and print the instruction sheet. The system comes with 8 feet of track, in two feet lengths. It also has a flip stop, production stop and adhesive measuring tape, one left to right and one right to left. Although my counter top is 54 inches on each side, the fence is 48 inches to match the track. You have to make the height of the fence exactly 2-1/4 inches in order for the stops to work correctly. I made my fence from 3/4-inch Baltic birch. It's simply two pieces joined at a right angle with glue and brads. I put two coats of polyurethane on it. I drilled holes in the horizontal leg for hex bolts that sit in the Woodpecker DP track to hold the fence in place with knobs. When I bought knobs for the fence, I purchased star knobs and they are too big. I have to swap them out for smaller ones. The track sits on top of the fence and is attached with supplied wood screws. You first have to drill the track. Kreg milled a score line along the back of the track as a drill guide. Once the track is attached, you place the fence exactly where it will sit and using a scrap board milled to exactly 24 inches long and 3 inches tall, you butt the board against the saw blade. Using an accurate square, you mark a line on the track. The cursor mark on the stops is offset by 3/8-inch. You align 24-3/8 inches on the tape measure with your pencil mark and adhere the tape the entire length of your fence. Fine adjustments can be made by moving the cursor slightly. Based on where my fence sits on the counter top, I can use the tape measure to about 66 inches. If I need to go beyond that, I can fit and cut up to 10 feet to the right of the blade and just under 7 feet to the left. These cuts will have to be measured with a hand held tape measure.
> 
> ...


Thanks Roger.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Lenny said:


> *The Fence System*
> 
> I opted for the Kreg Precision Trak and Stop System for my miter saw fence. I attended the New England Woodworking Show in January and Peachtree was selling the system at a discount that put the price lower than any I had seen so I bought it. When I opened it up the other day, there were no instructions inside. A call to Kreg customer service took care of that quickly. The tech apologized and then helped me navigate their website to find and print the instruction sheet. The system comes with 8 feet of track, in two feet lengths. It also has a flip stop, production stop and adhesive measuring tape, one left to right and one right to left. Although my counter top is 54 inches on each side, the fence is 48 inches to match the track. You have to make the height of the fence exactly 2-1/4 inches in order for the stops to work correctly. I made my fence from 3/4-inch Baltic birch. It's simply two pieces joined at a right angle with glue and brads. I put two coats of polyurethane on it. I drilled holes in the horizontal leg for hex bolts that sit in the Woodpecker DP track to hold the fence in place with knobs. When I bought knobs for the fence, I purchased star knobs and they are too big. I have to swap them out for smaller ones. The track sits on top of the fence and is attached with supplied wood screws. You first have to drill the track. Kreg milled a score line along the back of the track as a drill guide. Once the track is attached, you place the fence exactly where it will sit and using a scrap board milled to exactly 24 inches long and 3 inches tall, you butt the board against the saw blade. Using an accurate square, you mark a line on the track. The cursor mark on the stops is offset by 3/8-inch. You align 24-3/8 inches on the tape measure with your pencil mark and adhere the tape the entire length of your fence. Fine adjustments can be made by moving the cursor slightly. Based on where my fence sits on the counter top, I can use the tape measure to about 66 inches. If I need to go beyond that, I can fit and cut up to 10 feet to the right of the blade and just under 7 feet to the left. These cuts will have to be measured with a hand held tape measure.
> 
> ...


Nice Lenny.


----------



## Lenny (Sep 28, 2008)

Lenny said:


> *The Fence System*
> 
> I opted for the Kreg Precision Trak and Stop System for my miter saw fence. I attended the New England Woodworking Show in January and Peachtree was selling the system at a discount that put the price lower than any I had seen so I bought it. When I opened it up the other day, there were no instructions inside. A call to Kreg customer service took care of that quickly. The tech apologized and then helped me navigate their website to find and print the instruction sheet. The system comes with 8 feet of track, in two feet lengths. It also has a flip stop, production stop and adhesive measuring tape, one left to right and one right to left. Although my counter top is 54 inches on each side, the fence is 48 inches to match the track. You have to make the height of the fence exactly 2-1/4 inches in order for the stops to work correctly. I made my fence from 3/4-inch Baltic birch. It's simply two pieces joined at a right angle with glue and brads. I put two coats of polyurethane on it. I drilled holes in the horizontal leg for hex bolts that sit in the Woodpecker DP track to hold the fence in place with knobs. When I bought knobs for the fence, I purchased star knobs and they are too big. I have to swap them out for smaller ones. The track sits on top of the fence and is attached with supplied wood screws. You first have to drill the track. Kreg milled a score line along the back of the track as a drill guide. Once the track is attached, you place the fence exactly where it will sit and using a scrap board milled to exactly 24 inches long and 3 inches tall, you butt the board against the saw blade. Using an accurate square, you mark a line on the track. The cursor mark on the stops is offset by 3/8-inch. You align 24-3/8 inches on the tape measure with your pencil mark and adhere the tape the entire length of your fence. Fine adjustments can be made by moving the cursor slightly. Based on where my fence sits on the counter top, I can use the tape measure to about 66 inches. If I need to go beyond that, I can fit and cut up to 10 feet to the right of the blade and just under 7 feet to the left. These cuts will have to be measured with a hand held tape measure.
> 
> ...


Thank you CJ.


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## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

Lenny said:


> *The Fence System*
> 
> I opted for the Kreg Precision Trak and Stop System for my miter saw fence. I attended the New England Woodworking Show in January and Peachtree was selling the system at a discount that put the price lower than any I had seen so I bought it. When I opened it up the other day, there were no instructions inside. A call to Kreg customer service took care of that quickly. The tech apologized and then helped me navigate their website to find and print the instruction sheet. The system comes with 8 feet of track, in two feet lengths. It also has a flip stop, production stop and adhesive measuring tape, one left to right and one right to left. Although my counter top is 54 inches on each side, the fence is 48 inches to match the track. You have to make the height of the fence exactly 2-1/4 inches in order for the stops to work correctly. I made my fence from 3/4-inch Baltic birch. It's simply two pieces joined at a right angle with glue and brads. I put two coats of polyurethane on it. I drilled holes in the horizontal leg for hex bolts that sit in the Woodpecker DP track to hold the fence in place with knobs. When I bought knobs for the fence, I purchased star knobs and they are too big. I have to swap them out for smaller ones. The track sits on top of the fence and is attached with supplied wood screws. You first have to drill the track. Kreg milled a score line along the back of the track as a drill guide. Once the track is attached, you place the fence exactly where it will sit and using a scrap board milled to exactly 24 inches long and 3 inches tall, you butt the board against the saw blade. Using an accurate square, you mark a line on the track. The cursor mark on the stops is offset by 3/8-inch. You align 24-3/8 inches on the tape measure with your pencil mark and adhere the tape the entire length of your fence. Fine adjustments can be made by moving the cursor slightly. Based on where my fence sits on the counter top, I can use the tape measure to about 66 inches. If I need to go beyond that, I can fit and cut up to 10 feet to the right of the blade and just under 7 feet to the left. These cuts will have to be measured with a hand held tape measure.
> 
> ...


Great job, I see where this would be a very useful system, appears pretty straight forward to install also


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## Lenny (Sep 28, 2008)

Lenny said:


> *The Fence System*
> 
> I opted for the Kreg Precision Trak and Stop System for my miter saw fence. I attended the New England Woodworking Show in January and Peachtree was selling the system at a discount that put the price lower than any I had seen so I bought it. When I opened it up the other day, there were no instructions inside. A call to Kreg customer service took care of that quickly. The tech apologized and then helped me navigate their website to find and print the instruction sheet. The system comes with 8 feet of track, in two feet lengths. It also has a flip stop, production stop and adhesive measuring tape, one left to right and one right to left. Although my counter top is 54 inches on each side, the fence is 48 inches to match the track. You have to make the height of the fence exactly 2-1/4 inches in order for the stops to work correctly. I made my fence from 3/4-inch Baltic birch. It's simply two pieces joined at a right angle with glue and brads. I put two coats of polyurethane on it. I drilled holes in the horizontal leg for hex bolts that sit in the Woodpecker DP track to hold the fence in place with knobs. When I bought knobs for the fence, I purchased star knobs and they are too big. I have to swap them out for smaller ones. The track sits on top of the fence and is attached with supplied wood screws. You first have to drill the track. Kreg milled a score line along the back of the track as a drill guide. Once the track is attached, you place the fence exactly where it will sit and using a scrap board milled to exactly 24 inches long and 3 inches tall, you butt the board against the saw blade. Using an accurate square, you mark a line on the track. The cursor mark on the stops is offset by 3/8-inch. You align 24-3/8 inches on the tape measure with your pencil mark and adhere the tape the entire length of your fence. Fine adjustments can be made by moving the cursor slightly. Based on where my fence sits on the counter top, I can use the tape measure to about 66 inches. If I need to go beyond that, I can fit and cut up to 10 feet to the right of the blade and just under 7 feet to the left. These cuts will have to be measured with a hand held tape measure.
> 
> ...


Thank you Norm, and yes, Kreg put together a nice system.


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## matt1970 (Mar 28, 2007)

Lenny said:


> *The Fence System*
> 
> I opted for the Kreg Precision Trak and Stop System for my miter saw fence. I attended the New England Woodworking Show in January and Peachtree was selling the system at a discount that put the price lower than any I had seen so I bought it. When I opened it up the other day, there were no instructions inside. A call to Kreg customer service took care of that quickly. The tech apologized and then helped me navigate their website to find and print the instruction sheet. The system comes with 8 feet of track, in two feet lengths. It also has a flip stop, production stop and adhesive measuring tape, one left to right and one right to left. Although my counter top is 54 inches on each side, the fence is 48 inches to match the track. You have to make the height of the fence exactly 2-1/4 inches in order for the stops to work correctly. I made my fence from 3/4-inch Baltic birch. It's simply two pieces joined at a right angle with glue and brads. I put two coats of polyurethane on it. I drilled holes in the horizontal leg for hex bolts that sit in the Woodpecker DP track to hold the fence in place with knobs. When I bought knobs for the fence, I purchased star knobs and they are too big. I have to swap them out for smaller ones. The track sits on top of the fence and is attached with supplied wood screws. You first have to drill the track. Kreg milled a score line along the back of the track as a drill guide. Once the track is attached, you place the fence exactly where it will sit and using a scrap board milled to exactly 24 inches long and 3 inches tall, you butt the board against the saw blade. Using an accurate square, you mark a line on the track. The cursor mark on the stops is offset by 3/8-inch. You align 24-3/8 inches on the tape measure with your pencil mark and adhere the tape the entire length of your fence. Fine adjustments can be made by moving the cursor slightly. Based on where my fence sits on the counter top, I can use the tape measure to about 66 inches. If I need to go beyond that, I can fit and cut up to 10 feet to the right of the blade and just under 7 feet to the left. These cuts will have to be measured with a hand held tape measure.
> 
> ...


looks so professional!


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

Lenny said:


> *The Fence System*
> 
> I opted for the Kreg Precision Trak and Stop System for my miter saw fence. I attended the New England Woodworking Show in January and Peachtree was selling the system at a discount that put the price lower than any I had seen so I bought it. When I opened it up the other day, there were no instructions inside. A call to Kreg customer service took care of that quickly. The tech apologized and then helped me navigate their website to find and print the instruction sheet. The system comes with 8 feet of track, in two feet lengths. It also has a flip stop, production stop and adhesive measuring tape, one left to right and one right to left. Although my counter top is 54 inches on each side, the fence is 48 inches to match the track. You have to make the height of the fence exactly 2-1/4 inches in order for the stops to work correctly. I made my fence from 3/4-inch Baltic birch. It's simply two pieces joined at a right angle with glue and brads. I put two coats of polyurethane on it. I drilled holes in the horizontal leg for hex bolts that sit in the Woodpecker DP track to hold the fence in place with knobs. When I bought knobs for the fence, I purchased star knobs and they are too big. I have to swap them out for smaller ones. The track sits on top of the fence and is attached with supplied wood screws. You first have to drill the track. Kreg milled a score line along the back of the track as a drill guide. Once the track is attached, you place the fence exactly where it will sit and using a scrap board milled to exactly 24 inches long and 3 inches tall, you butt the board against the saw blade. Using an accurate square, you mark a line on the track. The cursor mark on the stops is offset by 3/8-inch. You align 24-3/8 inches on the tape measure with your pencil mark and adhere the tape the entire length of your fence. Fine adjustments can be made by moving the cursor slightly. Based on where my fence sits on the counter top, I can use the tape measure to about 66 inches. If I need to go beyond that, I can fit and cut up to 10 feet to the right of the blade and just under 7 feet to the left. These cuts will have to be measured with a hand held tape measure.
> 
> ...


Beautiful! It looks more like a piece of furniture than a utility build. That should inspire you in the shop.
Great build.


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## Lenny (Sep 28, 2008)

Lenny said:


> *The Fence System*
> 
> I opted for the Kreg Precision Trak and Stop System for my miter saw fence. I attended the New England Woodworking Show in January and Peachtree was selling the system at a discount that put the price lower than any I had seen so I bought it. When I opened it up the other day, there were no instructions inside. A call to Kreg customer service took care of that quickly. The tech apologized and then helped me navigate their website to find and print the instruction sheet. The system comes with 8 feet of track, in two feet lengths. It also has a flip stop, production stop and adhesive measuring tape, one left to right and one right to left. Although my counter top is 54 inches on each side, the fence is 48 inches to match the track. You have to make the height of the fence exactly 2-1/4 inches in order for the stops to work correctly. I made my fence from 3/4-inch Baltic birch. It's simply two pieces joined at a right angle with glue and brads. I put two coats of polyurethane on it. I drilled holes in the horizontal leg for hex bolts that sit in the Woodpecker DP track to hold the fence in place with knobs. When I bought knobs for the fence, I purchased star knobs and they are too big. I have to swap them out for smaller ones. The track sits on top of the fence and is attached with supplied wood screws. You first have to drill the track. Kreg milled a score line along the back of the track as a drill guide. Once the track is attached, you place the fence exactly where it will sit and using a scrap board milled to exactly 24 inches long and 3 inches tall, you butt the board against the saw blade. Using an accurate square, you mark a line on the track. The cursor mark on the stops is offset by 3/8-inch. You align 24-3/8 inches on the tape measure with your pencil mark and adhere the tape the entire length of your fence. Fine adjustments can be made by moving the cursor slightly. Based on where my fence sits on the counter top, I can use the tape measure to about 66 inches. If I need to go beyond that, I can fit and cut up to 10 feet to the right of the blade and just under 7 feet to the left. These cuts will have to be measured with a hand held tape measure.
> 
> ...


Thank you Willie.


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## Colcalcipherol (Dec 30, 2016)

Lenny said:


> *The Fence System*
> 
> I opted for the Kreg Precision Trak and Stop System for my miter saw fence. I attended the New England Woodworking Show in January and Peachtree was selling the system at a discount that put the price lower than any I had seen so I bought it. When I opened it up the other day, there were no instructions inside. A call to Kreg customer service took care of that quickly. The tech apologized and then helped me navigate their website to find and print the instruction sheet. The system comes with 8 feet of track, in two feet lengths. It also has a flip stop, production stop and adhesive measuring tape, one left to right and one right to left. Although my counter top is 54 inches on each side, the fence is 48 inches to match the track. You have to make the height of the fence exactly 2-1/4 inches in order for the stops to work correctly. I made my fence from 3/4-inch Baltic birch. It's simply two pieces joined at a right angle with glue and brads. I put two coats of polyurethane on it. I drilled holes in the horizontal leg for hex bolts that sit in the Woodpecker DP track to hold the fence in place with knobs. When I bought knobs for the fence, I purchased star knobs and they are too big. I have to swap them out for smaller ones. The track sits on top of the fence and is attached with supplied wood screws. You first have to drill the track. Kreg milled a score line along the back of the track as a drill guide. Once the track is attached, you place the fence exactly where it will sit and using a scrap board milled to exactly 24 inches long and 3 inches tall, you butt the board against the saw blade. Using an accurate square, you mark a line on the track. The cursor mark on the stops is offset by 3/8-inch. You align 24-3/8 inches on the tape measure with your pencil mark and adhere the tape the entire length of your fence. Fine adjustments can be made by moving the cursor slightly. Based on where my fence sits on the counter top, I can use the tape measure to about 66 inches. If I need to go beyond that, I can fit and cut up to 10 feet to the right of the blade and just under 7 feet to the left. These cuts will have to be measured with a hand held tape measure.
> 
> ...


Lenny,
I'm building a miter station myself with what looks to be the same miter saw. I see you have some sort of rubber boot for attaching the vacuum to the dust port. Would you mind explaining what you did there? I bought my saw a few months ago and it came with a dust collection bag. It has a sort of twist lock adapter on it but looks similar to what you have from what I can tell in the photo. I haven't figured out yet how I'll get the vacuum attached . . .


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## Lenny (Sep 28, 2008)

Lenny said:


> *The Fence System*
> 
> I opted for the Kreg Precision Trak and Stop System for my miter saw fence. I attended the New England Woodworking Show in January and Peachtree was selling the system at a discount that put the price lower than any I had seen so I bought it. When I opened it up the other day, there were no instructions inside. A call to Kreg customer service took care of that quickly. The tech apologized and then helped me navigate their website to find and print the instruction sheet. The system comes with 8 feet of track, in two feet lengths. It also has a flip stop, production stop and adhesive measuring tape, one left to right and one right to left. Although my counter top is 54 inches on each side, the fence is 48 inches to match the track. You have to make the height of the fence exactly 2-1/4 inches in order for the stops to work correctly. I made my fence from 3/4-inch Baltic birch. It's simply two pieces joined at a right angle with glue and brads. I put two coats of polyurethane on it. I drilled holes in the horizontal leg for hex bolts that sit in the Woodpecker DP track to hold the fence in place with knobs. When I bought knobs for the fence, I purchased star knobs and they are too big. I have to swap them out for smaller ones. The track sits on top of the fence and is attached with supplied wood screws. You first have to drill the track. Kreg milled a score line along the back of the track as a drill guide. Once the track is attached, you place the fence exactly where it will sit and using a scrap board milled to exactly 24 inches long and 3 inches tall, you butt the board against the saw blade. Using an accurate square, you mark a line on the track. The cursor mark on the stops is offset by 3/8-inch. You align 24-3/8 inches on the tape measure with your pencil mark and adhere the tape the entire length of your fence. Fine adjustments can be made by moving the cursor slightly. Based on where my fence sits on the counter top, I can use the tape measure to about 66 inches. If I need to go beyond that, I can fit and cut up to 10 feet to the right of the blade and just under 7 feet to the left. These cuts will have to be measured with a hand held tape measure.
> 
> ...


Hi Cocalcipherol. I used Fernco rubber plumbing parts to attach a shop vac to the dust port. From right to left there is a 1-1/4" to 2" fitting, then a 2" to 2" fitting and finally the shop vac hose. I bought the Fernco fittings at my Home Depot plumbing department. The shop vac sits under the shelf that the saw sits on. The shop vac and miter saw are plugged into one of those units that turns the vac on when you start the tool. I hope this explanation along with the pictures answers your questions.


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## Colcalcipherol (Dec 30, 2016)

Lenny said:


> *The Fence System*
> 
> I opted for the Kreg Precision Trak and Stop System for my miter saw fence. I attended the New England Woodworking Show in January and Peachtree was selling the system at a discount that put the price lower than any I had seen so I bought it. When I opened it up the other day, there were no instructions inside. A call to Kreg customer service took care of that quickly. The tech apologized and then helped me navigate their website to find and print the instruction sheet. The system comes with 8 feet of track, in two feet lengths. It also has a flip stop, production stop and adhesive measuring tape, one left to right and one right to left. Although my counter top is 54 inches on each side, the fence is 48 inches to match the track. You have to make the height of the fence exactly 2-1/4 inches in order for the stops to work correctly. I made my fence from 3/4-inch Baltic birch. It's simply two pieces joined at a right angle with glue and brads. I put two coats of polyurethane on it. I drilled holes in the horizontal leg for hex bolts that sit in the Woodpecker DP track to hold the fence in place with knobs. When I bought knobs for the fence, I purchased star knobs and they are too big. I have to swap them out for smaller ones. The track sits on top of the fence and is attached with supplied wood screws. You first have to drill the track. Kreg milled a score line along the back of the track as a drill guide. Once the track is attached, you place the fence exactly where it will sit and using a scrap board milled to exactly 24 inches long and 3 inches tall, you butt the board against the saw blade. Using an accurate square, you mark a line on the track. The cursor mark on the stops is offset by 3/8-inch. You align 24-3/8 inches on the tape measure with your pencil mark and adhere the tape the entire length of your fence. Fine adjustments can be made by moving the cursor slightly. Based on where my fence sits on the counter top, I can use the tape measure to about 66 inches. If I need to go beyond that, I can fit and cut up to 10 feet to the right of the blade and just under 7 feet to the left. These cuts will have to be measured with a hand held tape measure.
> 
> ...


Hey Lenny,
Thanks so much for the detailed reply and photos. I'm working on miter saw station but I didn't want to have a permanent fence so after some Google searching, I found your post. So, I am pilfering your idea about the track-this way I can have a fence but I can also have a work space if I want. I'm setting up a fence on the right and just a stop block on the left. I have six feet on each side so there's a lot of room with which to work. I also think that I will use hardwood for at least the bottom leg of the fence such that I can dado a sort of tongue on the bottom that will align precisely with one of the two grooves of the t-track. I think I will also fab some dowel pins and drill holes such that I can have a way of getting a precise return to zero plus two or three feet if I want to make longer cuts and still use the tape.

I appreciate your input on the rubber fittings-that's a really great idea and a simple solution.


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## Lenny (Sep 28, 2008)

Lenny said:


> *The Fence System*
> 
> I opted for the Kreg Precision Trak and Stop System for my miter saw fence. I attended the New England Woodworking Show in January and Peachtree was selling the system at a discount that put the price lower than any I had seen so I bought it. When I opened it up the other day, there were no instructions inside. A call to Kreg customer service took care of that quickly. The tech apologized and then helped me navigate their website to find and print the instruction sheet. The system comes with 8 feet of track, in two feet lengths. It also has a flip stop, production stop and adhesive measuring tape, one left to right and one right to left. Although my counter top is 54 inches on each side, the fence is 48 inches to match the track. You have to make the height of the fence exactly 2-1/4 inches in order for the stops to work correctly. I made my fence from 3/4-inch Baltic birch. It's simply two pieces joined at a right angle with glue and brads. I put two coats of polyurethane on it. I drilled holes in the horizontal leg for hex bolts that sit in the Woodpecker DP track to hold the fence in place with knobs. When I bought knobs for the fence, I purchased star knobs and they are too big. I have to swap them out for smaller ones. The track sits on top of the fence and is attached with supplied wood screws. You first have to drill the track. Kreg milled a score line along the back of the track as a drill guide. Once the track is attached, you place the fence exactly where it will sit and using a scrap board milled to exactly 24 inches long and 3 inches tall, you butt the board against the saw blade. Using an accurate square, you mark a line on the track. The cursor mark on the stops is offset by 3/8-inch. You align 24-3/8 inches on the tape measure with your pencil mark and adhere the tape the entire length of your fence. Fine adjustments can be made by moving the cursor slightly. Based on where my fence sits on the counter top, I can use the tape measure to about 66 inches. If I need to go beyond that, I can fit and cut up to 10 feet to the right of the blade and just under 7 feet to the left. These cuts will have to be measured with a hand held tape measure.
> 
> ...


Glad to help out and good luck with your build.


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## Lenny (Sep 28, 2008)

*Door, Drawers and Trays*



















I have completed the doors, drawers and pull-out trays of my miter saw station. The drawers are pretty basic. They are ¾ inch solid maple fronts, ½ inch Baltic birch sides and back and ¼ inch bottom. Either laziness or the fact that this is for a workshop, led me to use a locking rabbet joint for the drawer fronts versus dovetails.










I did the same for the pull-out trays. All the drawers and trays ride on full-extension drawer slides. For the doors, I went with solid maple rails and stiles and a Baltic Birch ¼ inch panel. I used mortise and tenon joinery for the frames and made these doors the full inset type.

I haven't fully decided what will go where in the cabinets and drawers but as you can see in one photo, my oscillating spindle sander fits nicely in a tray.



















I have lots of tools that I keep in their original case (jig saw, brad nailer, Kreg pocket hole kit and my Dremel tool for example). I can get them off the shop floor and into a tray or two. Speaking of trays, I went with four for now but depending on what I store, I could add additional trays within the cabinets.










This pretty much completes this project. As seen in the photos, I have purchased a 36" flexible hose (from Rockler) that I will use with my DC system to pick up dust at the rear of the cut. I will use a shop vac with fittings in place of the bag that comes with the saw. I suspect that will catch the majority of the dust but, as we all know, miter saws are notorious for throwing dust. Thanks for checking in on me.


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## redryder (Nov 28, 2009)

Lenny said:


> *Door, Drawers and Trays*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Your shop is looking "tight". And we know tight is right. Nice….................


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

Lenny said:


> *Door, Drawers and Trays*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


looking real nice lenny

the new shop and tools
are agreeing with you

that sander on the tray
is a good idea
i got a little toy 4" jointer on one
under my radial arm saw


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

Lenny said:


> *Door, Drawers and Trays*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


looks so clean and organized, the whole project turned out great, now its time to see some more woodwork..


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## Lenny (Sep 28, 2008)

Lenny said:


> *Door, Drawers and Trays*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Many thanks Mike, David and Grizz!


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## ellen35 (Jan 1, 2009)

Lenny said:


> *Door, Drawers and Trays*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Great job Lenny.
Your miter saw station is a work of art!
Ellen


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## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

Lenny said:


> *Door, Drawers and Trays*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Very nice Lenny.
Real clean, I like that.

I use a shop vac on my chop saw and it is not near enough. I like that you brought over the DC mains. I am afraid that you will need them.

Steve


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## Lenny (Sep 28, 2008)

Lenny said:


> *Door, Drawers and Trays*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks Ellen. Perhaps I should start calling myself Leonardo instead of Leonard? Thanks Steve. Some dust still escapes but the more we can catch, the better.


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## matt1970 (Mar 28, 2007)

Lenny said:


> *Door, Drawers and Trays*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Wow, wow, wow and more wow…truly beautiful…you could do this professionally!


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

Lenny said:


> *Door, Drawers and Trays*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


A great finish to a really nice project. It will be a great addition to your shop.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

Lenny said:


> *Door, Drawers and Trays*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Looks really good from here. Nice work.


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## aussiedave (May 28, 2013)

Lenny said:


> *Door, Drawers and Trays*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Wow very nice Lenny and I really like the idea of the pull out trays, very nice indeed. Lots of storage and pleanty of top bench space for cutting. Excellent job.


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## Lenny (Sep 28, 2008)

Lenny said:


> *Door, Drawers and Trays*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thank you Matt, Willie, Bob and Dave.


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## CJIII (Jan 3, 2014)

Lenny said:


> *Door, Drawers and Trays*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Looks good!


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## Lenny (Sep 28, 2008)

Lenny said:


> *Door, Drawers and Trays*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thank you CJ.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Lenny said:


> *Door, Drawers and Trays*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


A super nice setup Lenny. Lots o storage, and overall just fantastic.


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## Lenny (Sep 28, 2008)

Lenny said:


> *Door, Drawers and Trays*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks Roger.


----------

