# Dust Collection Improvement for a Delta 36-725



## nkawtg (Dec 22, 2014)

The Delta 36-725 is a good saw, and (knock on wood) I haven't had any of the alignment issues many have spoken of. However it has some shortcomings with respects to dust collection. It is equipped with a blade shroud and 2.5" dust port which for the most part does a good job, but a lot of dust gets past the shroud and drops out the bottom.

So I went to work fabricating a bottom for the machine with a 4" dust port. This is what I came up with:

I used a magnetic duct cover to cover the space left by the removal of the 2.5" dust port.
I added a 4" dust port to the frame below.









Here I fabricated the bottom and incorporated a 4" port from Harbor Freight.









Here is a shot of the pluming under the dust collection pan.









After running some scrap wood through the saw there was virtually no dust on the floor.
It ain't a pretty solution but it got the job done.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

I am very much a "function over form" guy, so who cares what it looks like as long as it works well? Good job…I just wish the tool makers would wake up and put some better DC porting on the tools.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

It looks fine to me…should be a nice performance improvement. What alignment issues has the 36-725 had? I haven't read of any.


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## WhyMe (Feb 15, 2014)

I did the same dust collection mods you did on my 36-725. The comment you made about alignment surprised me because I haven't heard of that..


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## nkawtg (Dec 22, 2014)

I stand corrected. It was the Ridged R4512 saw that has the issue.

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/57168


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## WhyMe (Feb 15, 2014)

I just noticed… is that a Craftsman router top you added? I added my Craftsman router top to the side. I'm starting to see a psychic connection.










I made a more funnel shaped box to get closer to the motor and to direct the dust towards the vacuum hose.


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## nkawtg (Dec 22, 2014)

Actually it's a Bosch router table. Perfect fit, though I didn't like how much it cantilevered out so I moved one of the steel tables to the other side.


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## dannorocks (Mar 5, 2015)

I'm liking your solution and gives me some ideas. I started on building a cabinet for mine (Delta 36-725) and called it quits during moving out of the house I sold. Once I get some free time here I want to get this saw on the cabinet and haven't thought of how the 4" dust collection conversion and close up the opening for the 2 1/2". This seems like a simple solution, but I may do some shop engineering with some 4" PVC pipe and save a little cash.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

> I stand corrected. It was the Ridged R4512 saw that has the issue.
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/topics/57168
> 
> - nkawtg


thx for clarifying.


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## nkawtg (Dec 22, 2014)

WhyMe, after some use, I'll probably modify mine to be more funnel shaped, dust does tend to settle on the flat pan around the duct.
Now I see how you support the router table, I didn't spot the diagonal legs before.
What I did was move the left stamped metal table to the other side.
Using an image of your saw, this is what I did.









An advantage to your solution is you can handle wider stock.


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## WhyMe (Feb 15, 2014)

Believe it or not those diagonal legs are made of black ABS pipe. I was going to do the same as you and move the left wing to the right but I always cut long stock hanging to the left side of the blade, so I kept the left side longer by not moving the wing. I used ABS screw couplings on the ends to adjust the length of the legs to level the router table to the TS table.


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## nkawtg (Dec 22, 2014)

Very nice.


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## Amoc (Jan 8, 2013)

Excellent, I have had my Saw since January. I have added my router to the right side. I have been having issues with the dust as it grinds into a powder and then when my vacuum pulls it in from the designed port I still have dust all over the place. I really like your ideas, I have been thinking of creating a saw dust box at the bottom with a vacuum port added to pull the dust. I was worried though that not having the factory designed shroud around the blade it may cause other issues, but after seeing yours I cannot see a problem now!


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## hotbyte (Apr 3, 2010)

Nice mods on dust collection. I haven't decided how happy (or not) I am with the dust shroud. Only thing I can compare it to is my old open backed Craftsman 113 contractor saw that had one of those 4" hose plates on the bottom. I never enclosed the back around the belt, motor, etc.. Compared to it, it seems pretty good. I might give this a try using that old adapter to see how it does.


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## nkawtg (Dec 22, 2014)

Those magnetic vent covers worked really well covering the big holes left by the 2 1/2" dust port at the back and the slot for the blade tilt in the front.
I still may redo the pan to a more funnel shaped affair.

My next project is an old Grizzly band saw I picked up for $100 bucks. No dust collection on it at all.
Hmmm what shall I do…


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## WhyMe (Feb 15, 2014)

I removed the factory designed shroud around the blade and fabricated a partial shield from sheet metal that still helps to direct the saw dust downward and away from the motor.


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## Amoc (Jan 8, 2013)

Nice! When I start on mine I will look at the same mod.


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## kirbi69 (Jan 24, 2014)

Just made a two year review video. Check it out…


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## nkawtg (Dec 22, 2014)

Thanks for the review Kirbie69, one year out for me and no issues at all.


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## nerd6022 (Jan 21, 2018)

This is an older thread and I'm new here so not sure how active such a thread might be responded to, but here goes…

If I take the dust shroud/port off my 36-725, I assume I need to cover the motor so dust doesn't go inside it (not that the dust shroud was full prove). My question is, do I need to worry about covering up the vents to close and the motor will overheat, or is it more important I focus on blocking the dust (or both)?


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## nkawtg (Dec 22, 2014)

The dust shroud doesn't actually cover the motor, just the bottom half of the blade.
I had some magnetic sheets laying around and I used those to cover the old dust port and the front where the tilt is.
I didn't seal the bottom of the table to the sides, I didn't think it was necessary.
Overall it works fairly well.


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## nerd6022 (Jan 21, 2018)

Thank you for the response!


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## WhyMe (Feb 15, 2014)

I looked up inside and my motor looks really clean after two years of use with the base enclosed using the 4" dust port. I think the air flow coming in from the front tilting crank handle opening and around the blade insert pulls the dust away from the area of the motor.


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## nerd6022 (Jan 21, 2018)

WhyMe, you fabricated something to guard the motor in the same way the dust shroud originally guarded it (obviously you know this, because it's you saw and picture). Your post is the reason I asked my original question because it would appear that some sort of blocking of the motor is a good idea if you're going to pull off the original dust shroud. I copied you a bit, except I used the dust shroud to fabricat something. I removed the port, then cut the dust shroud down the middle. So, if you look straight down from the front of the saw, I removed everything to the right of the blade.

I really like how your 4" dust port and body for the dust port kinda hug the motor. How did you attach it to the table?


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## nkawtg (Dec 22, 2014)

Well I don't remember having any trouble taking he shroud off.
Just pull the side panels to give you more working room, probably had to tilt the motor or something.
But no trouble at all.


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## nkawtg (Dec 22, 2014)

I did something stupid this weekend and dropped my fence.
Bent the left aluminum extrusion.
50 bucks online with shipping.
Maybe I'll fabricate one out of wood.


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## nerd6022 (Jan 21, 2018)

To take out the middle screw, I used a bit holder and philips bit and fit it into the little hole where the screw is, then used a pair of pliers to turn the bit holder. I am not a genius and did not think to tilt the motor!


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## WhyMe (Feb 15, 2014)

> WhyMe, ,......
> I really like how your 4" dust port and body for the dust port kinda hug the motor. How did you attach it to the table?
> 
> - nerd6022


I have two strips of wood on opposite sides of the top of the funnel that I screwed into through the metal side panels to hold the funnel in place. See second picture post #5.


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## Ome (Apr 18, 2017)

I went the easy way on my Delta 36-725, i bought it used without shroud and the hose connecting tube, ordered the tube thinking i had the shroud but it was miising too.
I went to Harbour Freight and bought the canvas Table Saw Dust Bag (item # 45794 $ 5.99) that fitted perfectly under the table and covered all the openings with cardboard and duct tape, problem solved, when the bag fills 1/4 i can vacuum it out or i can remove the bag and empty it out. (It comes with easy to place snaps)


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## jlozan2 (Nov 2, 2018)

Can you go into detail on how you mounted the router table? I am about to do the same with my bosch router table so any help is much appreciated!

Thanks,


> The Delta 36-725 is a good saw, and (knock on wood) I haven t had any of the alignment issues many have spoken of. However it has some shortcomings with respects to dust collection. It is equipped with a blade shroud and 2.5" dust port which for the most part does a good job, but a lot of dust gets past the shroud and drops out the bottom.
> 
> So I went to work fabricating a bottom for the machine with a 4" dust port. This is what I came up with:
> 
> ...


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## maniep (Apr 21, 2019)

> I just noticed… is that a Craftsman router top you added? I added my Craftsman router top to the side. I m starting to see a psychic connection.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Do you happen to have any details or posts on how you added this router table to the saw? I also have this Bosch router table and want to do this exact same thing on the left side. I would love to see some additional photos and some info on how you made it work.


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## nkawtg (Dec 22, 2014)

Ah, no my router table is a Bosch Router Table.


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## maniep (Apr 21, 2019)

> Ah, no my router table is a Bosch Router Table.
> 
> - nkawtg


I was referring to WhyMe's table saw setup with his Bosch RA 1811 on the left with the support attached to the saw  I do like yours too, but having that extra length I think would be really helpful.


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## WhyMe (Feb 15, 2014)

My router table is a Craftsman and is cast aluminum so there is a lip with holes, so I drilled holes in saw's sheet metal extension to match and connected to extension with bolts. The supports are made from ABS drain pipe and I used screw fittings with screw collars on the ends up at the bottom side of the router table to adjust the pipe length to level the router top. The legs are a slip in fit with no mechanical fasteners to hold in place. Hope that makes sense. I put it on the left because I wanted the added length to support longer boards.


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## dbdors (Dec 29, 2014)

For those of you that inclosed your saw and added bottom dust ports, have you had any motor issues. I did the same with my saw, and I suspect that being a vented motor, the dust has gotten inside and stopped it from working. I am taking the motor to a shop and will have more details later, but wanted ask if you have seen any issues.


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## nkawtg (Dec 22, 2014)

No issues, I keep it pretty clean anyway.


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## WhyMe (Feb 15, 2014)

Nope, no motor issues. Mine stays more clean from the suction air flow from the dust shroud I added than the stock dust shroud.


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## bobfromsanluis (Jul 23, 2016)

I bought my Delta locally off of Craigslist, the seller did not have the original legs, so I built a cabinet with a drawer underneath. Changing out the 2 1/2" dust port and removing the factory shroud, I opted to make "ramps" on all four sides along the bottom and then put a 4" port out the back. I just have one shot of that right now, this is looking from the back with the rear cover removed. I used regular gray duct tape to attach to the metal sides of the saw, and foil tape along the bottom to cut down on friction of the dust movement. I also installed a cut pool noodle along the top edges where the sides meet the top, and then some more noodle fit into the slot on the front where the handle moves when tilting the blade. After reattaching the rear panel, I finished buttoning it up with some more foil tape along the outside edges and where the port attaches.


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## Buck_Thorne (Jun 20, 2015)

Well, seven years after this was posted, I finally joined the club. I pretty much used nkawtg's method with a flat bottom and a manufacturer dust funnel. I used pool noodles and hot water pipe insulator foam to seal up the larger cracks, magnetic vinyl for the front and back panel cutouts, aluminum tape where I could, but I didn't want to use that for sealing up the edges of the back panel because the stuff is so tenacious; if I ever want to take the back off, this will make it a lot less messy.

I still have a couple of air leaks where a small pile of fine dust settles, but over all, it makes a world of difference!

I did leave the shroud in place. I did disconnect the old blue plastic dust port and just let it hang loose inside. So far that seems to be fine.

I know that it is still going to build up inside, especially around the edges and corners, but I'm OK with that.


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