# Getting Serious about Dust Collection



## jgreiner (Oct 23, 2010)

So I'm looking to improve my dust collection, I currently have a Jet DC-1100A .. which goes to a filter bag etc and I'm looking at a few options. My shop is my garage .. which is about a 16×25 usable space with 11' ceilings. I would only have 1 tool running at a time and use blast gates to control airflow. I need to stay within the 110v range because it would be fairly costly to get a 220v circuit added where I wanted to keep my dust collector.

The first option is upgrading the DC-1100A with some after market enhancements. I'm looking at a Super Dust Deputy 96 Gallon trash can, and an Onieda Dust filter made for these type of dust collectors.

*Jet DC - Upgrade*
Price: 625.60
CFM: 1100 at 4'' (which I'm sure would be lower because of the added cyclone)
Intake: 5 or 4'' 
Capacity: 96 gallon (if I decide to get that big of a trash can)
Filter: .3 micron

Other options are of course buying a cyclone dust collector:

*Oneida 2 HP Super Dust Gorilla*
Price: 1,727.28
CFM: 1339
Intake: 7''
Capacity: 35 gallon
Filter: .3 micron

*Oneida V-System 1500™ - HEPA*
Price: 1295.00
CFM: 949
Intake: 6''
Capacity: 35 Gallon
Filter: .3 Micron

*Grizzly G0443*
Price: 1,063.00
CFM: 1025
Intake: 6''
Capacity: 35 gallon
Filter: .2 Micron

*Grizzly G0703P*
Price: 838
CFM: 775
Intake: 6''
Capacity: 30 gallon
Filter: .2 Micron

The after market wins on price, and capacity but I'm not sure how much the CFM will tank by adding the cyclone/filter to the DC-1100. I've read mixed reviews about the super dust deputy, but overall they tend to be favorable.

The Grizzly's win on filter size by .1 micron, I have no idea how much better that is .. but it's better. The downside to the grizzly is I'm iffy on their service. I get a ton of good and bad reviews from grizzly, and while I'm willing to take a risk on a cheap tool from harbor freight when it's 5 minutes away .. I don't know if I'm willing to take the same risk with something freighted like this.

Oneida's V series range in price and comes pretty closer to the grizzly, but it also jumps to the very high in price. The big question is if it is worth the money, would the Oneida V-1500 perform $600 better than the add on system? or would the 2 HP Super gorilla perform $1,100 better? and honestly I don't know.

A lot of it comes down to how much of a loss of CFM do you get from the super dust deputy. If it's 100-200 CFM .. then it's not too bad, if it's 500 or so, then that's a pretty significant loss. There is also a cyclone mod sold on ebay for roughly the same price, I don't know if it works better or worse but it's also an option.

I love lumberjocks for the wealth of experience that is out there, if anyone has any experience with any of these setups and can offer their opinions I'd be greatly appreciated.

-jeremy


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## RetiredCoastie (Sep 7, 2009)

Have you looked at the Thein separator? I have a Winn .1 micron filter on my DC and it seems to be very good. I plan on building a Thein separator for mine. There are lots of reviews on this set up with very good results. Good luck on your search. Try this thread, it has some info. http://lumberjocks.com/topics/19095


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## AHuxley (Apr 22, 2009)

First, if you are serious a cyclone is THE way to go.

Don't rule out Clear Vue either.

I think calling Grizzly's filters better means more research is in order. If it doesn't say HEPA then it isn't as good as a HEPA.

Given cyclones run more than any other single machine motor in the shop AND they run a near full load almost all the time it is the machine I most want a American built motor in.

Oneida and Clear Vue would be my only two choices unless you find a used Torit or similar.

http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/index.cfm This provides all the info you need a more.


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## jgreiner (Oct 23, 2010)

@RetiredCoastie I've considered a thein separator but after my experience with the shop notes separator I've decided against it.

@AHuxley 
All the setups mentioned above are cyclone setups. I looked at clear vue, but their cyclone is way to big for my Jet DC 1100 .. and their motors are only 220v .. which rules them out.


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## Alexandre (May 26, 2012)

2hp super gorilla is the one I'll get… It will last you a lifetime compared to the jet.


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## AandCstyle (Mar 21, 2012)

Jeremy,
I didn't buy an Oneida and wish that I had because of the quality of their products, design and technical support. If you intend to run tubing to your machines, that can be a significant expense as well. I would probably purchase the V-System 1500 of the units you have listed, but if you have room in your electrical box I would seriously consider moving up 220v.

Call Oneida and talk with a technician. I was ready to purchase a Gorilla 2.5 or 3HP and the technician suggested some low cost options to improve my system's performance which worked, saving me about $1200. HTH


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## MonteCristo (May 29, 2012)

DC on 110V was, for me, problematic. My Delta 1200 CFM collectors came wired for 110V but only 1 of 4 would even start, the other 3 tripping their 15A breakers due to start up load. I switched the lot to 220V and it's been great. If you do use 110V, you'll likely need a dedicated circuit.


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## jgreiner (Oct 23, 2010)

I do have my dust collector on a separate circuit than the rest of my machines for that very reason/


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## lanwater (May 14, 2010)

I was contemplating the same thing as you.
Buy a cyclone or retrofit.

upgrade your jet with the super dust deputy.
I did my upgrade a couple of weeks ago and I am amazed at the result. 
My JDS DC retrofited with the super dust deputy actually increased suction.
Prety much nothing goes in the bag.


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## kizerpea (Dec 2, 2011)

jeremy
I was having the same prolm . with the plan from wood mag i built my own, check out my projects on my home pps..did it on a budget to..spent less than $ 200.00 on the cyclone an the filter….i just super sized the plan.


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## djg (Jun 24, 2012)

If you want to get serious about dust collection you should read Bill Pentz' site. It's is a virtual treasure trove of information. With a 16×25 space I will tell you that a collector less than 2 HP will not be useful to you. If you wish to capture the dust at the source you need to move a massive amount of air, at least 800-1000 CFM at the tool. This requires a large impeller (14") and large ducts (6"-7"). Any duct smaller will not support the airflow since compression of the moving air in the ductwork is negligible. The 1 1/2 HP collectors typically cannot do this when connected to a ducting system. Most of the collectors are spec'ed with an open inlet. As soon as you connect a duct you choke the airflow, increase air resistance (static pressure), and therefore see a massive decrease in the volume of air the system can move.

Anything without a measured fan curve showing system performance should be looked with some skepticism. The numbers are not real. They tell us what we want to hear but in the end do not show us what we want to see: real dust collection with large air volumes.

I recently did a review of the G0440 2HP cyclone where I did measurements using a digital manometer (used to measure air velocity and static pressure). I did my measurements ala the Bill Pentz prescription. My results were good. The measured fan curve was quite similar to the manufacturers (Grizzly has fan curves on their cyclone spec sheets). Have a look through the reviews for it. You may find it useful. For a garage your size you will be operating in the 4-7 range for the curve. Keep in mind that this fan curve has not been measured in a shop situation for those measurements. Adding more ducting, flex hose, machine hoods, all adds static pressure to the system and decreases air flow. So does loading the filter. I will tell you that I have now done measurements for each of my machines (all connected to 6" ports) and the measurements are good. I am sitting above 900 CFM for each. Grizzly specs the collector at 1300 CFM ( 2" static pressure) which is similar to what I measured as you will see from the resulting fan curve. My results show that Grizzly (at least) doesn't appear to be cooking their measured data. I will note that adding ducting, flexhose and machine hoods have dropped the air flow by 30% in some cases! This is why the fan curve is sooo important! It gives you a view into the real world! I will be posting my latest measurements soon.

Just to comment on lanwater's claim, although it may give good separation results, does not mean you have better dust collection. Good dust collection means collecting as much dust at source as possible, then separating, then filtering. I am not sure about his setup but it seems that he may be talking air about air velocity. Air velocity is just one part of the equation. A vacuum moves air quickly at high static pressure so the air velocity in the hose is quite large. For example at 2" hose on a shop vac moving 200 CFM will be moving the air at around 9000 fps. However in a 4" duct the speed drops to 2300! This is not even enough to keep dust chips in suspension and will lead to excessive clogging in the duc system. All I can say is that anytime you convert a single stage collector into a double stage by addition of a cyclonic separator, you add air resistance and therefore static pressure to the system. An increase in static pressure always decreases airflow. Your 1100 CFM machine is probably now only moving about 70% of that number. Adding a speparator will decrease it more again.

As for filtration, a filter is only as good as the separation makes it. If the separation is lousy, the filter will clog frequently. you also need to ensure that the manufacturer posts some type of efficiency numbers. HEPA is 99.97% of everyting above 0.3 microns. The grizzly spec looks good but there is no way to compare them to hepa. They have published 99.9% above 0.2 microns. This is good, but without there being a collection efficiency number at 0.3 microns there is now way to compare the two without speculation.

Before I finish my rant, I will say that first line of attack should be a good HEPA dust mask, then dust collection at source, then an air scrubber. An air quality monitor in the shop would also be useful to determine if your collection efforts are working and when it is safe to take off your mask. I plan on purchasing the Dylos particle counter. it's fairly cheap and appears to have good reviews on the woodworking forums.

Phew…that was a mouthful! Have a look at my review of G0440.


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## djg (Jun 24, 2012)

I should also mention that during my testing I also measured current using a clamp on ammeter for varying airflow. The currents measured never reached the name plate amperage of 14A which does seem high for a 2HP motor…My highest current was 10.2 amps. This was measured with all blast gates open and drawing about 1100 CFM.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

Excellent reply by dlg! If you go to the Pentz site, start with the FAQ section to avoid getting drowned in the techno-babble. One more thing, I have the Oneida SDG, and find the separation to be not up to my expectations. If I use my drum sander heavily (a common occurrence) I can see the filter gauge climb as I work. The Oneida follows none of the Pentz design criteria, and so it sends a lot of the very finest particles to the filter. My system performs per Oneida specs (99% filtration, and yes, I measured it and i get 98.4%) but that's not good enough. I often have to clean the filter twice per 35 gallon drum of chips. I put the Magnehelic gauge on just to keep track of the filter build up.


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## djg (Jun 24, 2012)

If you "commission" your machine with a set of base measurements you will know the response of the system when the filter is clean. When I measured my fan curve I also measured motor amperage. Since the motor amperage is related to air flow, you can used a clamp-on ammeter to approximately measure the CFM without a magnehelic although a magnehelic is also a great solution. A cheap Princess Auto (Harbour Freight) clamp on ammeter costs less than $15 and should be adequate to ball park the CFM as long as you have taken time to measure the fan curve for the system before you start using it. It will give you some idea about when the filters are loaded and are in need of cleaning.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

Yes, that's true…but I didn't do that when it was new. My system has underwent so many changes since it was new (including a complete motor swap) that any info I would have had at that time would be incorrect. But I did check the amps (that's why there's a bigger motor on it now) to determeine if i was overloading the thing, turns out my duct work was too efficient for the blower. I can't do a fan curve since I don't have a pitot tube. Back to the gauge, the magnehelic was only $20 from e-bay and on line all the time so it was a minimal addition, and a useful one.


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## djg (Jun 24, 2012)

Jeremy, I think Fred's suggestion is great for your situation. If you do not want to invest in a pitot and manometer you should consider purchase a magnehelic on e-bay. Use it as a gauge to determine when your filters have overloaded. When you install it on your new system you can get a static pressure measurement snapshot of your unloaded filter.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

I go back and forth on the DC issue… I've studied fluid dynamics and understand fan curves, etc… So when I read the BP site, most all of it makes perfect sense to me…..but…

there's the "practical" engineering side, which has to manage cost-benefit decisions. So, I'm a little skeptical at times, whether every 400 s.f. one man hobby shop out there really needs a $3,000+ DC system (you'll likely spend as much on 6" steel pipe and fittings as you do you're DC…. and we're also talkiing about adding air filters, etc…) in order for that one man to be "reasonably safe"

Don't get me wrong…. djg's review write up is EXCELENT and BP's site is an EXCELENT compliation of material. And that kind of hard data really is needed to prove whether any system is adequate. But because most of us have limited resources, the data and computations need to be interpreted and applied at the individual level, with consideration what else that money might be used for.

Also to be considered, what other, potentially economical forms of protection are available to you. For example, in a garage shop, does your environment allow opening the big door and using fans to recirculate the atmosphere? Are you in a sparsely populated area and is your environment warm enough that you can discharge the DC outside with no/minimal filtration?

The point being that for some people, putting the difference between $3K and a $1K system towards better health insurance, or a water filtration system, or a household air purifying system, or a Saw Stop TS, or whatever…. may give them more bang for the buck. So, while you can benefit greatly from an engineered DC system, you still need to be able to see the forest through the trees.

All the stats and numbers can quickly make one feel overwhelmed, like they're commiting a crime against humanity and throwing your children to the wolves if they don't take out a second mortgage and aquire a 5HP Clearview system.

On the technical side… a DC system with multiple legs and machine hookups can get pretty complicated with the potential for an invalid assumption or an overlooked detail tossing a monkey wrench into a solid system analysis, quickly degrading its benefits. Here's an example of what I'm talking about… You set up your system so your moving an honest 1,000 cfm through your 6" metal ducts, and you retrofit your Unisaw to have a 6" port. But where's all that air coming from? If you have a ZCI on the saw, it's going to be the narrow banana slot around the blade height hand wheel? Me thinks you'll be pulling a slight vacuum on the cabinet…. and there goes your honest 1,000 cfm out the window. So in the case of your cabinet saw…. you may be much better off putting that extra money into setting up an after market blade gaurd with build in DC and hooking it up to a dedicated shop vac with a cyclone that can generate the static pressure needed to pull air though the smaller pipes common to many of these set ups. That may well give you more bang for your buck.

In summary, my point is that any system design is always going to involve compromises between conflicting constraints…. and budget is usually one of those constraints.

I personally think that for a typical 400 s.f. one man hobby shop, if you set up a decent 2-3 HP canister DC, a ceiling mounted air filter, and then spend a lot of time adapting your machines and hand tools for better collection at the source, you'll find the cost/benefit ratio of improving upon that very high.


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## djg (Jun 24, 2012)

I hope that I haven't been to opinionated! I am merely trying to educate based on my experience. Alot of Bill's information is fact. You need to move a large volume of air in order to acquire all the fine stuff. So what's the point in purchasing a 1 1/2 HP cyclone that moves a < 800 CFM at 1" static pressure when you need at least 800 to get all the fine stuff (assuming you dust hoods are well designed). Before purchasing anything make sure you know what you are getting and that the the real world scenario is always less CFM and you thought you were buying.

I do agree mostly with ssnvet's comments. It does come down to a practical engineering side and the resources that you have available to you. A cyclone is a huge investment that may be better spent elsewhere for your situation. The whole dust collection system is a huge investment. Ultimately you are trying to accomplish several things. The main one is breathing clean air. Replacing the shop air with outside is a great option if it is open to you. Venting to the outside is better than filtering. I tell people if you want to breathe clean air, where a good mask. Good masks aren't that expensive. if you can't replace air in the shop with clean air, consider building an air scrubber. I build an air scrubber using a furnace cage fan and a 1/2HP motor for under $100 and it works great and moves more air than the hobby ones.

I have been in the situation where I purchased a DC that I wasn't pleased with. I fell into the trap and realized that I have now spent more money than if I purchased something better from the beginning. You live, you learn.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

If you are looking at single stage collectors, you really ought to give the Delta 50-760 a serious look. They have been tested by several different labs, and reviews etc… and always come out on top air flow wise… I think for a smaller unit, a 50-760 fitted with a Thien baffle and a Wynn canister filter would be about the ideal setup… You see a LOT of guys modding their DCs re-orienting the impeller housing so that it dumps directly into the inlet ring bypassing the flex hose connection between the two, the idea came from units like the 50-760…

If you have the space, and budget, a smallish full on cyclone like the Penn State models really offer a lot of bang for the buck… There is just a lot of bucks required to get going with one of them.

Those tack on cyclones I am honestly no big fan of. They offer no real advantage over a Thien baffle, take up a lot more space, and are frequently not scaleable duct size wise…

I haven't looked at the Super Dust Gorrilla too much, but have heard good things about them… I suggested the Penn State as I have seen a 2.5HP Tempest S series actually in use in a friend's FILs shop, runs his fully ducted system no problem, but yeah, it requires 220V power…


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## lanwater (May 14, 2010)

Djg: I agree that extra ducting will add air resistance but if done correctely (read no extra hose) it should no be very different form the grizzly cyclone at similar horse power (although I don't read much in the horse power rating). My JDS (or former JDS now) was retrofited with a .5 micron filter long ago. I kept that filter with the conversion.

I read Bill Pentz many many times. I agree with many things he says.

On a different note: I read in many places that when the trash can gets about 2/3 full you need to stop and empty it. If you don't, you clog your filter. 
They are many circuit to retrofit your setup that will alert you when the dust gets to your set level. Some even shutdown the cyclone for you.
Similar to circuit in light that turn on automatically when it's dark; probably based on photosensitive led.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

Any time I bring up BP, the first thing I try to say is that he's done a great service to us all, by putting in the time to research and make accessable some really great info. I haven't been to his site in a while and I'd heard he was going to cull some of the old material and tidy things up a bit. Again, kudos to BP for further helping us all.

djg has built on (and verified) BPs work, so I say kudos to you as well.

So if I ask questions… it's not a challenge of anyones compitence or integrity… but rather me scratching my head and thinking (yes… a dangerous activity)...

*You need to move a large volume of air in order to acquire all the fine stuff. *

This statement is certainly true … but I think it may need qualifying. The way I understand it, these high cmf numbers are required to pull a spherical shaped volume of dust contaminated air, that is centered around a point source. And since the dust 1. is produced rapidly 2. is produced over a prolonged period of time 3. propogates rapidly and 4. is produce in close proximity to your nose … it's neccessary to pull a whole lot of cfm to suck it up b4 your breath it in.

So that high cfm number makes a lot of sense for say a down draft table, or a big gulp behind your SCMS, or a not-so-big gulp clamped to a work bench just behind where you are sanding with a hand held power sander (to catch the 30% that doesn't go in the shop vac hose you have connected to the dust port) or a hood over the top of your TS.

But when your stationary tool is essentially shooting a whole lot of debris (large and small) into a cabinet enclosure, to which you have a DC port attached at the bottom, where not talking about trying to catch a dust cloud that is in unrestrained within the "people tank" (old submariner term used when discussing atmosphere controls). Rather, by putting a catch funnel in the cabinet, and ensuring your DC pipe is moving air with sufficient velocity to keep all the material entrained I think you'll be getting all of what's there to be got.

Please correct me if I'm going astray…. but the high cfm seems to me mostly applicable to hoods over or behind (or under in the case of a down draft table) a unrestrained source. And if you don't have any of these hoods… you'll just be dead heading a buch of enclosed cabinets.


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## lanwater (May 14, 2010)

correction: 
Please read 1 micron on the added canister filter as opposed to .5 micron. It was too late to correct the original post.


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## djg (Jun 24, 2012)

@ssnvet

qualifying the statement involves some physics. Everything you said in items 1-4 is true and the statements about high cfm for things like downdrafts, SCMS, and the big gulp are true The problem with your stationary tool is that it is not shooting everything into a cabinet enclosure. As a table saw blade spins at high angular speed it does eject most of the material from the blade into the cabinet, especially the particles with higher mass. The particulate being carried by the teeth experience centrifugal force which ejects them. centrifugal force is a function of mass. As mass decreases centrifugal force is less so some of the material continues to spin with the blade, as your blade passes through the material, into the cabinet and back out the top of the table. The scoring action of the blade as it passes down through the top surface of the material being cut shoots dust in all directions at high speed. That being said most small particles slow quickly because drag increases substantially as particle mass decreases. That is, the particles have less inertia. So without properly designed dust hoods, the dust gets ejected and escapes. If dust makes it beyond the influence of the negative pressure well of the collection port (since the velocity of the air decreases as the square of the distance from the port) it just gets swept up by currents in the room and disperses. Air flow is as important as air volume. Closing up a table saw so tight that there is very little air flowing in chokes air flow through the base port and even more dust makes it above the table. This is why creating directional air flow inside the cabinet is quite important.

I don't think that you are going astray. In fact you are quite right. Every tool creates dust that can be easily controlled and dust that cannot be easily controlled. The dust that cannot be easily controlled needs that high volume in order to be picked up. The key is the design of the port. Creating a high volume negative pressure well surrounding the source of the dust that is not easily controlled.

I'm not sure that I have covered everything in the previous post. This is my understanding of the dust problem looked at from a physics perspective. I don't claim to be an expert in dust collection. I do however have a PhD in physics, that I rely on to understand many problems I run into within the art of woodworking, dust collection included. I remember when I first tried to sit down and understand the dust collection problem. Because of my understanding of the physics behind it I was able to sort through the details to get to the important stuff. Seeing the forest through the trees is not easy since it is a complex problem. I can only say that BPs site is full of useful, logical information that I have found quite useful during my journey into dust collection. His comments about the manufacturers may be a little over exagerated though since, I did show in my review that Grizzly didn't cook their fan curve….


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

So when I finish refurbishing my 30 year old Jet TS and have a Shark guard made for it….. I'll have to decide between a 4" connection or a 2.5" connection….

The 4" flex hose split off of my DC will move more volume, which should be better for the fine stuff.

But the 2.5" flex hose hooked up to the shop vac, with a much higher static pressure, will "grab" what's being slung off of the blade at high speeds.

I'm thinking that the answer to my decision depends on weather the 3 micron and smaller stuff has enough mass to generate substantial centrifugal forces and velocity coming off the blade.

Hmmmm…..

The plot thickens


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## djg (Jun 24, 2012)

So vacuums operate at high static pressure but the volume they move is relatively low compared to a dust collector. Home shop dust collectors operate in the <10>t get captured.

The plot does thicken….complicated stuff, lots of physics!


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## djg (Jun 24, 2012)

So vacuums operate at high static pressure but the volume they move is relatively low compared to a dust collector. Home shop dust collectors operate in the <10>t get captured.

The plot does thicken….complicated stuff, lots of physics!


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## djg (Jun 24, 2012)

So vacuums operate at high static pressure but the volume they move is relatively low compared to a dust collector. Home shop dust collectors operate in the <10>t get captured.

The plot does thicken….complicated stuff, lots of physics!


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## djg (Jun 24, 2012)

So vacuums operate at high static pressure but the volume they move is relatively low compared to a dust collector. Home shop dust collectors operate in the 10 in range and can move lets say 500 to 1000 CFM. A shop vac can be up to 50 in of static pressure but only move 200 cfm. if you clap your dusty hands in front of a shop vac hose you will see that very little dust gets picked up except for the stuff in directly in front of the nozzle. Most of the dust diffuses and gets picked up by the air currents in the room. If you do the same thing at the same distance in front of a 6" hose hooked to a dust collector you will see that much more of the dust gets picked up. So it is easier to capture the dust that has diffused away from the source using a large air volume.

The next time you go into your shop, lift the blade guard and turn on the table saw. Place your hand in front of the blade about 6" away. The teeth from the blade even moves air at fairly high speed which tends to carry the dust even further. Unless you have a way to change the direction of that flow, the dust projects, then diffuses into the room. The only way to catch the diffusing stuff is with large air volume. With a well designed dust hood you can capture alot also using a shop vac. The SawStop design seems to be well designed. It appears that air spinning off the blade at the front of the work piece, gets funneled into a small orifice which is then collected by a 1 1/4" hose! Not sure if SawStop users are pleased with the system but it's performance probably depends on whether or not the 1 1/4" hose is hooked to a dust collector or vacuum. As in your previous post, I also suspect that a vacuum would work better for that set up. As long as the source of the dust is confined and concentrated at the orifice where the suction occurs, a shop vac would work well. This is the same reason that a shop vac works well for capturing dust when hooked up directly to a sander but a dust collector does not. For sanding applications you need both: A shop vac for collection at source and a dust collector/down draft to catch the more diffuse stuff that slings off the sanding disk that doesn't get captured.

The plot does thicken….complicated stuff, lots of physics!

Sorry about previous postings, seems the editor didn't like the less than symbol. Not sure how to delete them


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## Milo (Apr 24, 2009)

I've got the Frankenduster and THREE separate shopvacs and STILL have dust all over the place. It's a never ending battle!

Or maybe I just need to be more diligent in their use…?


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*As long as the source of the dust is confined and concentrated at the orifice where the suction occurs, a shop vac would work well.*

I think that's the key idea…. and a good TS gaurd with DC should do that.

Same idea holds true for mitre saws…. hook a shop vac up to the1-1/4" port on the blade gaurd and use the high SP to capture what's shot into it, and a hood hehind the machine hooked up to the DC moving a lot of cfm for whatever isn't captured at the source (which in my case is most of it).

When I set up my 2 HP single stage canister DC, I was hoping I could reassign the shop vac to basement cleanup duty and get it out of my shop. Not gonna happen….. and now I'm feelin' like I need to set up multiple dedicated shop vacs at the TS, the SCMS and at my work bench.

Sorry if I've hijacked your thread Jeremy… hopefully, hearing others hash out their issues will help you make your decision… If I was considering buying new… I wouldn't go for anything less than 2 HP and in that camp… the G0440 looks like a sweet machine for the money.


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## BlankMan (Mar 21, 2009)

I agree with what's been said, if you're serious about dust collection go with a cyclone. I got serious about dust collection many years ago, unfortunately there wasn't a lot of choices at the time. My first setup was a shop vac with 2" plastic ducting and gates that Sears sold. Very inadequate. Next I got a 1HP DC and used 4" PVC, better but not by a lot. Then went to a Delta 1-1/2HP DC when they first came out and the 4" PVC. Better but still not what I was looking for.

Then I got real serious. Read all I could find on the subject, bought books including ones for industrial design dust collection. Then bought a Onedia 1-1/2HP cyclone when they first came out and redid all the ducting to 5" metal. Pretty much satisfied now but wouldn't mind going to a bigger cyclone but satisfied enough were I probably won't do that.

So all in all, I would say go with the Dust Gorilla from that get go, if I were doing it now that would be my choice but I would consider the 3HP. If I remember correctly the price jump isn't that much. Spend the money up front, once, and you'll land up saving money in the long run because more then likely you'll be satisfied.


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