# Table Saw Belt Tension



## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

I'm thrilled to have my new Ridgid TS3660 set up. I got a factory reconditioned model from CPO (brand new by all appearances) for $409 with free shipping. After using an $89 Ryobi for the past four years, using this thing is like trading up from a Yugo to a Cadillac.

I do have a question that the manual was unclear on: The motor hangs on a pivot so it can move as the blade is raised and lowered. I assume this is the case for most contractor saws. I'm also assuming that the motor is supposed to be positioned so that its own weight, hanging from the pivot point, keeps the tension on the belt.

Is that all there is, or am I missing something? As I said, the manual, while pretty good for the most part, was a little weak on this point.


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## GMman (Apr 11, 2008)

I can tell you that my jointer is the same way the weight of the motor makes the belt tension but if I don't use it for a while I take the weight off so I don't have tension on my bearings


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## 280305 (Sep 28, 2008)

Congratulations on the new saw. That is how my table saw tensions the belt. It is a wonderful design. I recently set up a band saw, and trying to get the tension correct inside that tiny cabinet was a chore. I ended up using a jack from my truck to adjust and support the motor while I tightened the bolts. That worked very well.

- Chuck


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## Dusty56 (Apr 20, 2008)

My friend owns a DELTA and says his motor hangs there to keep the belt tight as well…He has stepped up to one of those red sectional link belts with the machined pulley kits and it seemed to be a wonderful improvement to him . Enough so that he also bought a belt for his drill press which runs much smoother as well : ) Congrats on the new toy , Charlie !


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## amos (Oct 13, 2008)

Hi Charlie..One of my table saws is like yours..the weight of the motor will give you all the tension you should need..also I have found that a couple of sprays of belt dressing every now and then will keep your belt from slipping..plus add to the life of your belt…enjoy your new saw…your buddy Amos


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## douglas2cats (Mar 31, 2008)

I used to have a Can contractor saw before my PM66 and the link belts that Dusty mentioned are a very worthwhile (and fairly cheap) add-on. There seemed to be an increase in power just from the better belt grip. Cuts tast used to almost stall in thicker wood weren't quite so bogged down after the switch. It's still a contractor saw though, so a thin-kerf blade is also probably a good buy.


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## Bob42 (Jan 9, 2008)

I have an old Delta and that"s how it works, it creates tension on the belt. I just broke the belt and do have a spare but, I am going to try the sectional belt. I forgot the name of it. But I hear they work well.

Keep in mind to have an extra belt.


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## CanadianWoodChuck (Sep 8, 2007)

Charlie
Congrats on the new saw. My Delta contractor saw works the same way - just gravity. I would highly recommend the link belt. It cuts the vibration from the machine in at least half. If you do install the link belt be sure to check it after a short period as they do settle in the links as you use it. I had to remove 2 links after about 2 weeks of use. Enjoy.
Bruce


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## naperville (Jan 28, 2008)

Yes Charlie… that's how it works. Time to make yourself some zero clearance inserts and get to work. Show us what that saw can do!

Tom


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

Thanks for the replies, Guys. I've read good stuff about those link belts, so that is on my upgrade list. Tom, zero clearance inserts are #1 on my list for cutting those small box parts.


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## juniorjock (Feb 3, 2008)

Enjoy your new saw Charlie. I think you'll feel safer too.
-JJ


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## JohnGray (Oct 6, 2007)

Does anyone know the difference between the TS3660 and the TS3650?
Charlie I have the TS3650 and it's a great saw?


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

John, I did some research on that and could not find any significant differences. A number of people claimed they were virtually identical, and Ridgid doesn't note any changes or improvements on the 3660 either.


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## douglbe (Jul 22, 2007)

Congratulations on your selection of saws, I also have the TS3660 and I do not regret it. I know you will be more than pleased.


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## Boardman (Feb 7, 2008)

From my 3650 assembly manual:

Place your hand around the belt halfway between the two
pulleys and squeeze the belt until the two sides of the belt
touch. The motor should move freely as you squeeze the
belt. If the motor does not move freely, the motor must
be repositioned.

To reposition the motor, loosen the hex nuts on the
mounting brace and either push the motor in or pull it
out as needed. Check at maximum elevation also.
NOTE: Do not attempt to tighten the pivot screw as it
must move freely in the slot as the blade is raised or
lowered.


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

Yep, that is what the manual says. But what I was not sure of was if the motor's weight should hang against the belt, or if the motor should be adjusted so that its normal position is resting against the back of the pivot slots. Either way, you could still move the motor by squeezing the belt together.

Thanks to all who helped cleart it up for me. I love this saw already!


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## marcb (May 5, 2008)

In the interest of not starting another flame war like I tend to do when link belts come up I will post a link to a different thread that I talk about my link belt feelings.

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/4388#reply-45996

There are many things in life that the $40 dollar difference in cost between a good v-belt and a link belt could be spent on.


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## Roz (Jan 13, 2008)

Hey Charlie, 
You have it right with one exception the Motor pulley and the blade pulley must be it alignment. The link belt is the only way to go in my opinion. It stops almost all vibration. I have been running one on my Grizzly Contractor saw for 6 years without problem. The other saw is direct drive, a bit scary at times!
Roz


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Charlie, congrats on the contractor saw!


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## CedarFreakCarl (Apr 21, 2007)

I've got the ts3650. My experience has been that if you keep it just tight enough not to slip when the blade is at 90 deg. that's all you have to know. At least that's what's worked for me. It's a great saw, I know you'll enjoy it.


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## rtb (Mar 26, 2008)

Charlie I'v had 2 3660's..lost the first in a fire. Now you have all the info you neeed on belt tension. I agree about o clearence inserts should be first. 2nd think about a new brade, after quite a little use I opted for one of the gold colored rigid blades that does beautoful work at less than 1/2 the price of a forest II. nothing really wrong with the origional and I still use for anything than might be a little rough. I would use your saw for a while before jumping to a link belt, mines pretty smooth with the orig. belt. 1 last thing lots of wax on that big mass of cast irom I just use jhonson' floor wax and it works fine and not only does it protect it really adds to smoothness in feeding stock in and out. good luck you're going to love it !

(don't you just love factory rebuilts just like new at a lesser price)


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

I'm a big fan of factory reconditioned stuff. It is probably more reliable than the stuff coming off the production line brand new, because it has to be thoroughly checked out and tested.

I actually have one of the Ridgid blades you're talking about on my old saw. I was debating on whether to take it off and have it sharpened to put on the new saw, or just leave it on the old saw to help me get a few bucks for it and buy a new one for the new saw. I agree it is a good blade for the price.


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## bayouman (May 13, 2008)

Charlie: I have had the TS3650 for about two years now and it has been a great saw. I can remember when I first got it and was setting it up, I was confused about the best tension to put on the belt. I finally found a place where it seemed balanced and produced the right amount of power to the blade. Unfortunately, I can't remember exactly how I found that point, but knowing how I usually do things, it was after several trial and error attempts. I know that you will enjoy working witht the new saw, congratulations.


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## Albert (Jul 28, 2008)

Great saw with the exception of the stand, I threw away the wheel lift mechanism and put it on a regular roll around lifter, the stand legs still are not rock solid so someday I will put some diagnol braces on them. Otherwise I like mine fine, never had to adjust the belt tension yet.


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## spaids (Apr 15, 2008)

Now on to the outfeed table!


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## albut (Apr 16, 2008)

this is a link to find a tension for v belt but it too many calcul for me ,i think good tension for table saw is 5/16 whit 5 pounds of deflexion force is good tension

http://www.cptbelts.com/pdf/manuals_guides/guide_vbelt_tensioning.pdf

i hope this help you?


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

Thanks, albut. Lots of good info there, but math was never my best subject either.


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