# turning a contractor saw into a cabinet saw



## Maverick44spec (Aug 7, 2011)

I have a Craftsman 10" contractors saw and was wondering, how hard would it be to build a case and table around it so that it would be about the size of a cabinet table saw? It works great and makes extremely accurate cuts just the way it is but I always have trouble with it when I try to cut large boards or plywood sheets. (the table is about 15 3/4" x 26 3/4")

Also, what would be a great (very accurate) fence and rail for under $100 that I could get for the new table if I decide to build it?

Thanks


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

There are quite a few projects like this on the site. Some searching should turn up some good stuff.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49484


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## Sawkerf (Dec 31, 2009)

I got this saw from a neighbor in '85 and used it for 10 years before I did a complete overhaul which included machined pulleys, a link belt, new fence, and the first cabinet. The overhaul work took a typical homeowner saw to a nearly pro level saw. I used it for the first five years I was in business.

This is the second cabinet I built for it before selling it in '09. The space directly beneath the saw had a fake drawer front and was the collection chamber for the dust collector which connected to the back. The baffle over the back of the saw took a few hours to cut and fit, but it really helped the dust collection and still allowed me to move the saw through its full travel.


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## Maverick44spec (Aug 7, 2011)

Thanks for the advice everyone, I have the general design figured out. Now I just need a good fence. Does anybody know of a good quality fence and rail system for around $100?, or at least $200 or should I just stick with the stock fence?


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## WinterSun (Apr 3, 2011)

The Delta T2 fence is basically a light-duty Biese and is priced reasonably. A 30" T2 system will run you less than $200 new.

My Delta contractor's saw came with a T2 and I'm perfectly happy with it.


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## Flyin636 (Jul 29, 2011)

One thing you can do is make a sliding door for back panel.It cvrs the circ slot,required for bevel setups.It will help your DC immensley.Being as most cuts are at a 90.Then when you need a bevel,you just slide the door open enough to get the angle.

On the fr panel,you can affix a rubber pce to inside to seal off that hole.It gets sliced in the arc necessary for setting bevels.Have seen some saws with little brushes of sorts on this spot.

And as been posted,machined pulley's in either dble or trple is the way to go.Flyin


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

this is my craftsman 10".


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## Maverick44spec (Aug 7, 2011)

Thanks for the advice everyone. I looked at all of the tablesaw cabinets and finally came up with a design I like.

I can't figure out how to post a image from goggle sketch so I'll have to post it later.

Thanks again for the help.


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## Maverick44spec (Aug 7, 2011)

Ok, here's my design.










The table is 57.5"x36" and has a built in router table. It is designed so that a Delta T2 fence will fit on it. It is also designed so that I can remove to board in front of the table saw so that I can still use it as a contractor saw. Now I just need to decide on the best type of plywood to use. Should I use OSB or MDF for the sides and the table (I plan on puting some kind of laminate on the top for a smooth surface)?

Thanks for the help everyone, It won't be long until I begin building it.


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## Rick Dennington (Aug 27, 2009)

If you're still looking for ideas to re-do your saw, go to my Blog entitled* "A new look for an old workhorse", *and see how I refurbished my old Craftsman. One suggestion though: If you will remove the old metal legs, and build a cabinet for the saw to sit on, cut the opening in the cabinet for dust collection. Mine just pulls out, and you can empty it. Just look at how I did mine, and you'll get the general idea…. Happy building.


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## Maverick44spec (Aug 7, 2011)

Ok, I made some modifications to my first design. Here's the new one.


















I decided I didn't need the legs on it so I will build a dust collection cabinet under the saw and put shelving all around it. I think I designed it in a way that I can use mostly OSB without worrying about the wood sagging with age and preventing me from geting a perfectly square cut. The table is still 57.5"x36" and is made up of 1 sheet of OSB (bottom), 1 sheet of plywood (mid) and 1 sheet of laminate (top). It is reenforced by not only the shelve's walls, but also several 2×4s. In case you are wondering about the big. open space in the back of the cabinet, That is so I can put small machinery under. (I also plan on building a thickness sander later and will try to design it so that it will fit in this space. Hopefully when everything is done, It will end up saving space in my shop.

Thanks again for the help everyone.


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## sgtq (Jan 27, 2011)

Dont forget to post finished pics, I'm interested in how this will look I'm sure it will be amazing, and good luck with the build.


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## Maverick44spec (Aug 7, 2011)

I won't. I hope it turns out as well as the plans did.


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