# Chicken Coop door and hinge questions....



## Debora742

Hey all. Not sure where to put this, so for now…its here. I need to build 2 doors for my coop. One man door and one to go into the henhouse. I am going to do them using 2×4's and want them to be simple..BUT, i seem to not be getting anywhere, as I am stressing about hinge placement and spacing.
I don't know how much space is supposed to be between the door and the frame. I have read that you can put pieces of board along the inside edge of the frame and build your door in place, but i'm stuck. and the hinges..again i'm keeping it simple, but do you hide them, can they be on the outside, or inside And outside the door….

I have been searching for a good tutorial on how to install them, and spacing and all i find are posts on replacing existing doors.

I"m sure this is written to confuse you…but I'd like to get two doors done, and i'm stuck.

please help.

oh, and i'll post a picture of my coop so far in a bit.

thanks bunches,

debbie.


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## Debora742




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## klassenl

Build one (perhaps the smaller one) and see how it looks. Just do it, the worst that will happen is that you have to throw it in the burn pile.

I recently built doors for my garden shed. I left half an inch all the way around as a gap, that was too much. I put my hinges on the very top and very bottom. Seems to work.

Don't let fear of failure hold you back. Just do it, you'll get it.


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## johnstoneb

It's a chicken coop. Just put the door in the frame shim around it to get it spaced some what evenly and use butt hinges.


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## Debora742

I realize its just a chicken coop,but its also my first big build and a learning experience at the same time, so I'd really like to learn how to install a door and hinges correctly.


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## canadianchips

I 'd put the hinges on the outside. Door swing out. You can get into coop without disturbing chickens .
I would use the spring loaded self closing hinge. (Made for older screen doors)
Mount them between 12" & 16" from top and bottom and one in middle.


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## JoeinGa

Look at the panel that's directly to the right of the doorway.

Now, build a duplicate of that, but small enough to fit inside the doorframe with +/- 1/2" all the way around. 
Stand it in the opening, using shims under it to raise it off the frame a bit. Anything will work, even a couple screwdrivers.
Now mount 3" hinges on the right side. Just open the hinge and screw one side to the door and the other side to the frame to it's right. Put the top hinge about 10" down from the top and the bottom hinge about 12" up from the bottom. Yes, you will see the hinges, but you can paint them to match.

A simple gate latch will work on the left side to keep it secured.


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## JoeinGa

> I realize its just a chicken coop,but its also my first big build and a learning experience at the same time, so I d really like to learn how to install a door and hinges correctly.
> 
> - Debora Cadene


Ok, I was typing when you were posting this. If you really want to mortise in the hinges, go by Lowes or HD (or whatever big box store is near you) and talk to the guys who sell the custom doors. They should be able to help you with some basic instructions.


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## Handtooler

My, my that's a magnificent build and finish. It deserves your learning curve for the doors and hinges. I won't even try to add my suggestions as I'm certainly not a trained carpenter. But, want to just praise your diligent work to this point.


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## BurlyBob

Debora, you have done a really nice job on your chicken coop. My hat's off to you. Your first big build is a winner.


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## Debora742

These are the hinges I'm wanting to use. I just want to surface mount it, with no chiseling of the wood to inset it. I "think" there is a side that goes to the door and a side that is for the frame. I'm going to say the left side goes to the frame. I don't care if the whole thing is on the outside, or on the inside with just the middle sticking up…or part of it on the inside and part out. 
I think it would be easier to put it onto the door first, then to the frame, but I'm not sure how to get it onto the door correctly, so there is no binding. I DID ask the counter person for some help, and to be honest, it baffles me on some of the replies. I've been looking on line for any visual help I could find, as that works best for me, but I am truely not finding anything, or else I'm just not typing it in correctly. AND there are no stupid instructions on the package.


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## DKV

That is a very cool chicken coop. Nice job…


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## Ghidrah

2X4 and 1X8 siding boards will produce a heavy, what 3X5' door, maybe you want to rip the KD 2X stock to 2X2 1/2" to lighten the load and likewise use 1/2" ply for the panel. If adamant and will only use the 1×8 I'd "x" the center of the door frame to prevent and or minimize sag and out of square.

You can build the door frame with a 1/8" reveal, (space between the doors frame and structures door R/O). Once you have the door frame built set someone inside the coop to set the spacers and center (Ø) the door. Once the door is (Ø) flush it to the exterior structure siding, when done mark the inside for stops, (trim mat to abut the door frame when closed) once set you can then prep for marking and setting hinges and locks.

Know this the tolerance of the door frame to structures door R/O is tight and like any entry door the lock side of the door must be tapered to prevent contact with the R/O when opening and closing. It's been some time since I built a door, but if I remember correctly the taper should be about 7 to 8° from the outside of the door frame to the inside. The heavier the door is the more and HD the hinges must be to support the weight.

I would also insulate the interior and ensure the coop has a clear south facing view and something to block the north side from biting winter winds if you intend on keeping the chickens for eggs and or breeding purposes.


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## AlaskaGuy

I'll let the other coach you on your doors and hinges. I just want to say you've done a great job on your coop so far.


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## Debora742

Thank you all for the compliments on the coop.  I'm pretty proud of it so far!!
Ghidrah…
so the measurements for the small door are 30 3/8 wide x 38 3/8 tall. ( the man door is 32 3.9 x aprox. 76" ) The boards that I was using for the coop are tongue and groove and are the smaller ones…5 1/2", but probably only 5" of the face is visible. Not sure if that matters. I just happen to have a new table saw, so its easy enough to rip a 2×4 in half, but I'm not sure if you're saying it should be 2×2 1/2 or 2×2??? then I can rabbet ( or groove it out, ) the back so the boards will fit in. I was thinking it would look nice with the same type of wood, but having said that…I am not totally against using 1/2" plywood. As for the lock side of the door…you are saying to give that a slight angle?
The coop faces due south, and at this time, I will not be keeping chickens during the winter. My neighbor has said she would keep them over the winter once I do finally get some., but fully plan to insulate, if that changes as well as making up some "winter" panels that will fit over the screens for wind and snow block.


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## Stewbot

Here is one suggestion for a very simple shed style gate/door. You can rip your 2×4 to 2×3 or 2×2 and then build the perimeter first, make the perimeter 3/4" less than your bottom to top measurement and your left to right measurement. hopefully your jamb and header are plumb and level, but if not you can get tricky. Then put the hinges on and place the door frame in the opening on top of shims. Attach your hinges and check for fit. If it's too big or too small, your only out 4 pieces of wood. if too big, simply disassemble and make smaller as needed. Then you can add the remainder of the pieces as backing for your siding, and then mount the hinges on the exterior face of the door and face of coop. If you build it this way, and add siding, I would mount three hinges to prevent any sagging. Anyway, I'm not exactly sure if you are only stuck on how to mount the hinges or how to get started on the door, but hopefully this helps if this is the style you are looking for. Great looking coop BTW.


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## Stewbot

And again, my picture is sideways….

Hah, But based on how your coop turned out, your door will probably look much better than this…


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## Debora742

Brendon, is that the back of the door, or the front? Can I see the front as well, if its not? and while your at it…can I see how you did your hinges too????

I don't think I'm following what you are saying for making the door 3/4 smaller etc.

As to where I"m stuck. Its both. I have all my tools out and I'm pacing cause I am not sure where to start…lol. I am pretty hung up on the hinges, and i'm not even there yet. I was thinking of building it in place, but again…wasn't sure where to begin, as I had also got hung up on the spacing for the hinges.

and your door looks great. I could do something like this for the big door, only its going to be covered in screen. the smaller door will not have any windows or screen, and I had planned on three hinges for both the doors, even though it might have been overkill on the smaller one..


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## MrUnix

Seems to me that you are over-analysing and over-thinking this… if you got this far (great looking coop btw), the door should be easy. Just make a rectangle out of 1×2 material just slightly smaller than the opening, maybe with a few cross braces, staple some chicken wire on, place it in the opening and screw on the hinges. If it rubs a little on the jamb when opening, hit it with a plane or belt sander until it doesn't. Makes no difference which way the hinge goes, there is no 'door side' or 'jamb side' on them… just put them on the outside so the door opens out.

Once you have it in place, you can then figure out where any stops may be needed if needed. A simple screen door spring can be used if desired (one of those long skinny ones), and a block of wood with a screw through the middle can be used as a lock - the chickens aren't going to be trying to open it 

Cheers,
Brad

PS: Those hinges you have are really overkill for this… I've got smaller zinc plated utility hinges on mine and they have been working just fine for some 20+ years now (completely exposed to the elements).


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## Stewbot

Sorry, what I meant was to take the measurement of the rough openings height and width where the door will go. then subtract 3/4 of an inch from the total height and 3/4 of an inch from the total width, then build your door frame this size and it should fit. (Ex. Rough opening is: 36"x70", build your frame 35-1/4"x69-1/4")Or, if you think you need to subtract more than 3/4" and don't care about how tight a fit you get necessarily, then subtract more than 3/4", subtracting 1" instead of 3/4" will put you more on the safe side. However, before you get too far into the door build, it wouldn't be a bad idea to pop the door inside of the rough opening, put the hinges on the door and wherever you decide to mount the hinges on the coop with just a couple screws per hinge, then check to make sure the door will close and open properly. If it is way off, you can simply compensate where you need to and you only have a basic frame to disassemble/reassemble. Or if it is a bit too large, like mentioned above plane or sand where needed. If it helps, when you are ready to hang your door, put a couple shims underneath the door and shim higher or lower as needed, this will hold the door in place while you check your reveal, secure your hinges etc.

The photo I showed you is the back of a door for a shed I built. I too needed a simple door that was not pre-hung and put it together in a few hours. It fits as well as a shed door needs to fit. I simply fastened 3 (I tend to over build some things) hinges to the front of the door, 5" down from the top, 5" up from the bottom and one dead center. You did a great job on that coop and I bet the door will look just as good once you get rolling on it. The only other picture I have is from further away as I did not build this shed for myself. But you can kind of see how I mounted the hinges if you zoom in. I mounted them to the front of the door, and to the front of the shed on top of the door casing. The hinges I used are a little different from the ones you showed. Although if you mount your hinges the way I did mine, it would not be the traditional way of mounting your style hinge, however in this application it should be fine.


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## Stewbot

I'm sorry, I posted this from an iPad and do not know how to flip the image. I can flip the image, but cannot seem to post it right side up. I'm not too sure I like technology right now.


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## MrUnix

Here you go…










Cheers,
Brad


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## Stewbot

Thank you Sir.


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## Debora742

HAHA….Over thinking???? Oh heck ya!! I've been picking this project apart right from the start. I've jumped ahead to steps I wasn't even on, to try and figure it out before I got started. I was working from a picture and the roof was what started throwing me off, which is why i posted in the first place about angle cuts. I ended up changing my studs to go on end vs the flat, but was kind of pissed at myself for doing it, because I had the other way all figured out. AND I would be able to do it completely on my own with no help….which will explain the over thinking. I had to have a neighbor help me raise the walls and help me with the roof because of the changes.
I realize, as mentioned before, that its just a coop and when something goes a bit off, I say that out loud….its just a coop,...but then I still try and fix it anyhow….. but the doors are a little different…sort of….even though they aren't going to be like house doors, I still can't get past those stupid hinges and getting in with the correct spacing. I might get smaller ones for the little door…but I STILL don't know where that pin is supposed to be in regards to the door and frame. 
I realize you learn by your mistakes, but if I can do it somewhat correct the first time and not have a kazillion extra holes from my "mistakes"....I'd be tickled!
(oh…and its not exactly square Brendan….. corner to corner is out about 4 or 5 eighths difference One side is square…


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## canadianchips

If the hinges are mortised into door and frame there is less weight on the screws. Fasteners are made to hold the hinge in place, 
If ALL the weight is on screws the door will SAG sooner !


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## Ghidrah

Debora Cadene,

This is how I'd construct the door frame, half lap the cross, it doesn't have to be pretty inside the coop but the frame must be rigid to remain usable. I'd use SST screws of appropriate length and ext. gluage. 
Albeit a skewed representation the int. of Stewbot's door example is a good one.

If the coop is a long term investment there is no over thinking, keeping your hens happy and secure from raptors, *************************, snakes and feral dogs keeps them laying. You can never afford the surprise catastrophe that arrives at the least desirable moment, Winter storm anyone?


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## TopamaxSurvivor

> HAHA….Over thinking???? ...but I STILL don t know where that pin is supposed to be in regards to the door and frame.
> - Debora Cadene


Assuming you are using flat surface hinges similar to post #10, The pin is placed in the center of the gap between the door and the frame. I'd make the gaps about about 3/16" all the way around.


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## Debora742

You know what…I just love this place. I ask a question, I get lots of answers. I get to take bits and pieces from all of it and in the end….I get a door. Well, I get one of the two doors…
I'm not sure if the bracing is actually going to do anything, since its really only on half of the 2×4. I used my table saw and did a rabbit groove all around the back, so the tongue and groove could sit flush in the back, so ended up using a 1×4 in the front. Its only actually holding 3/4" of the frame. Did I mess up?? I had built the door yesterday, before I had some of my answers…My computer wouldn't cooperate and I couldn't get on line with out getting kicked off.

Anyhow. My spacing is about 3/16, which just happen to be what the lath was. I forgot to angle my side for the latch, but "so far" its good". I already know my door frame is not 100% square. I think it would be easy enough to take down and run it through my brand new Grizzly 0771.  I put the stops behind and for now, I just have an eye hook to keep it closed, as I need to get back to the hardware store and get a better handle and lock.

I didn't miter my corners for the door, so when I used the table saw to rabbit, I knew I'd have to fill in the ends with a chunk of wood. Next time I'll miter..

THANK YOU ALL for your help…every single bit of it. I'll be back when I'm ready to do my big door….lol.


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## canadianchips

Good looking chicken coop.
Now all you need is a dozen "Roosters" and your in business….........lol


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## leatherstocking

For mounting the hinges, just somehow set the door in the opening where you want, maybe 1/8 or 1/4 in, or so gap.
Then just centre the hinge pins on the Gap and screw it on. The hing barrels will be facing you as you drive the screws, the door will open towards you.


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## TopamaxSurvivor

Looks like the doors we used to have on the farm except for the screws. We only had nails then. Looks good from here ;-)


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## BurlyBob

That is doggone nice looking. You attention to detail is excellent. I notice that the gap around the door is extremely consistent. If this is your first big project your doing a really great job. Keep up the good work.


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## Debora742

Thanks bunches everyone. Now onto the big door!!


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## fiddlebanshee

> I d put the hinges on the outside. Door swing out. You can get into coop without disturbing chickens .
> I would use the spring loaded self closing hinge. (Made for older screen doors)
> Mount them between 12" & 16" from top and bottom and one in middle.
> 
> - canadianchips


I second this. If you're going to do any kind of deep litter method, you do not want the people door to swing into the coop. Make sure you create a ledge of some sort (I have a 2×4 on it's narrow side) to prevent shavings to spill out as you open the door. Keep it simple. I just created a basic barn door from 2×4s and the T-11 siding I was using for the coop and constructed the door. Then I propped it up in the opening made sure it was (somewhat) level and drilled in the hinges on the post and the door.

The chickendoor is even simpler. A piece of T11, framed in with some small pieces of 2×4. You can decide whether to put the hinges at the top or the side.

From one woman woodworker to anonther: Don't make it more difficult than it is. If you were close I'd invite you to look at my setup with my 60+ chickens, but you're probably not in Maryland (what would be the chance!) . Yea, my chicken hobby got a little out of hand, why are you asking? lol. I love every minute of it and the coops were the reason I got into woodworking. Now I have a shop and am building furniture, who'd have thunk that!


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## fiddlebanshee

sorry, duplicate post. My bad.


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## fiddlebanshee

Forgot to add to check out backyardchickens.com It has a great section on building coops where you can ask all kinds of questions about the architecture of coops and stuff you put in them. I adore that site almost as much as this one!


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## Debora742

Thanks fiddlebanshee…. Backyardchickens is actually where I got the idea for this particular style coop. Its called the Witchita chicken coop. I did make a few changes, but it "looks" the same.

I have a hard time not making something more difficult then it needs to be. Because I'm jumping right in, I always need to backtrack, so I can figure out the "WHY" of everything i'm doing. and then I can start. I'm definetely an over thinker, but I've enjoy every single last thing i've done so far. I still have little stuff to do and the big door, but its "almost" done. I had the frame done for the door the other day, but my 2×4's were questionable in the definition of "FLAT", so it had a bit of a twist, even though I clamped it flat when putting it together. I tried to give it a little twist…and snapped it. So I cut that wood up and make a couple washer toss games out of it…. 

I wish I was closer to any of you folks. It would be incredible to get the hands on version of so many things here…


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## Gentile

A chicken coop should only have 2 doors…









Sorry


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## Debora742

HAHA!! Good thing it only has two doors then eh!!


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## rwe2156

> Look at the panel that s directly to the right of the doorway.
> 
> Now, build a duplicate of that, but small enough to fit inside the doorframe with +/- 1/2" all the way around.
> Stand it in the opening, using shims under it to raise it off the frame a bit. Anything will work, even a couple screwdrivers.
> Now mount 3" hinges on the right side. Just open the hinge and screw one side to the door and the other side to the frame to it s right. Put the top hinge about 10" down from the top and the bottom hinge about 12" up from the bottom. Yes, you will see the hinges, but you can paint them to match.
> 
> A simple gate latch will work on the left side to keep it secured.
> 
> - JoeinGa


YES. YES YES!!

You might want to consider a screen door type latch on a chicken house this nice.

(Notice I said house not coop - this is no ordinary chicken coop, girl!)

Great job so far.


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## JoeinGa

And you might even put a screen door spring on it to keep the door closed.


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## Senator

Hi,

Does anybody knows a noticeable website for chicken coop plans? Want to build one by my own


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