# Garage Baseboard



## uMinded (Apr 30, 2013)

I have finished my garage and am stumped when choosing how to finish the bottom drywall edge. I do not plan on getting my garage wet but i am sure it will around the doors during winter. My ideas:

1) Treated 2×4's all around. Terribly ugly…

2) Std 2×4's jointed, planned and stained. Culked to floor for a good seal.

3) Cedar fence boards (1×6 x 6') ripped in half, planned and stained.

3) Residential MDF baseboard. Would swell terribly if it ever got wet. Looks great.4

Rubber base is crazy expensive for some reason but I only need to cover 70 linear feet.


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## Whiskers (Nov 6, 2012)

Use standard wooden baseboards, not that finger jointed stuff, and paint with 1 coat of good exterior paint and follow with a gloss or simi gloss in floor/porch enamel. Paint both sides of the baseboard before installing, than touch up after installing. During installation, Put down a bead of silicon caulk and set your baseboard on top of it.You can than use a hose when needed to clean the floor without having to worry.


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## BentheViking (May 19, 2011)

Where'd you look for rubber base?

I run a lumber liquidators store and we sell it for $0.89/LF. I know it adds up but it also doesn't seem outrageous. With anything else I'd recommend (assuming your concrete is relatively even and level) leaving it like 1/16" off the ground. Enough to keep out of contact, but not enough to notice.


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## bobkberg (Dec 26, 2009)

I was going to say part of what Whiskers did - so I'll repeat it.

Anything that is going to be exposed to moisture should be sealed with a good primer/sealer on ALL surfaces (Zinsser 1-2-3, Kilz), 2 coats and let it dry thoroughly before putting in place.

Bob


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## uMinded (Apr 30, 2013)

Rubber base was sold in 100' rolls at the carpet suppliers for $160/roll which is quite steep. I can get 3" mdf baseboard for $0.39/foot

I think I will give it two coats of exterior as suggested and silicone them down too.


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## Whiskers (Nov 6, 2012)

The standard wood or mdf baseboard sold in packs at the big box stores is pre-painted with a primer. The reason I suggest the method of painting I do is cause it is what I like to do. Floor enamel will eventually dry and harden to a super tough and hard finish, but it takes a while. Unfortunately it doesn't stick as well as paint really should and is easily sloughed off if bumped by something before it adheres. It sticks much better to a already painted surface than it does to primers. That why I use first coat of exterior paint which is probably more than good enough, but than follow with the enamel to get that semi gloss look and hard water proof finish I desire.


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

In my shop, I used a 2×6 as a baseboard. I wanted something that could take a beating and be up high enough to prevent casters on tool bases from damaging the drywall. I found relatively straight 2×6 and then cut a 45° on the top corner and ran a couple of grooves on the face using my router table. This made them look much better than the plain 2×6. I finished them with the same stain and finish as the rest of the trim in my shop and attached them using deck screws into the studs.

When I have put up either plywood or drywall in a garage area, I keep it an inch or more above the floor. This keeps any moisture from getting up into it.


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

Hardie board. I used it outdoors under a covered patio. Caulked it and never a problem from water. Has been in place for 15 years now.


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## WhyMe (Feb 15, 2014)

Composite decking makes good water resistant base boards.


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