# New Shop - from the ground , up.



## curliejones (Mar 12, 2012)

*Site work - not exactly FINE woodworking.*

Although a long journey yet ahead, the thought of the new shop is the "dangling carrot" as I work on some of the hard stuff. Built the east foundation wall over the last few days and the west wall will get completed today. I really did not want the long sloping clay hill to maintain, so I'm building a "bulkhead". Let's hope the tropical system that is expected into the Gulf of Mexico this w/e stays away from here and only brings a little rain to areas that need it. At least I get to daydream of building designs while I work on this part. I'm incorporating a French drain against the wall and the clay fill gets packed by hand in order to keep heavy equipment away from the wooden structure. I separate the clay from the gravel using landscape fabric, hoping to keep the drain alive.









The building will start 5 feet from the wall, sides and back.


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## ldl (Dec 4, 2011)

curliejones said:


> *Site work - not exactly FINE woodworking.*
> 
> Although a long journey yet ahead, the thought of the new shop is the "dangling carrot" as I work on some of the hard stuff. Built the east foundation wall over the last few days and the west wall will get completed today. I really did not want the long sloping clay hill to maintain, so I'm building a "bulkhead". Let's hope the tropical system that is expected into the Gulf of Mexico this w/e stays away from here and only brings a little rain to areas that need it. At least I get to daydream of building designs while I work on this part. I'm incorporating a French drain against the wall and the clay fill gets packed by hand in order to keep heavy equipment away from the wooden structure. I separate the clay from the gravel using landscape fabric, hoping to keep the drain alive.
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I too have started a shop and have the footer almost complete. My present shop is a 12' x 20" back porch so I sympathize with you on the smallness of your shop.

Hope things progress quickly for you and you are makin sawdust real soon.


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## BJODay (Jan 29, 2013)

curliejones said:


> *Site work - not exactly FINE woodworking.*
> 
> Although a long journey yet ahead, the thought of the new shop is the "dangling carrot" as I work on some of the hard stuff. Built the east foundation wall over the last few days and the west wall will get completed today. I really did not want the long sloping clay hill to maintain, so I'm building a "bulkhead". Let's hope the tropical system that is expected into the Gulf of Mexico this w/e stays away from here and only brings a little rain to areas that need it. At least I get to daydream of building designs while I work on this part. I'm incorporating a French drain against the wall and the clay fill gets packed by hand in order to keep heavy equipment away from the wooden structure. I separate the clay from the gravel using landscape fabric, hoping to keep the drain alive.
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Curlie,

Is this a picture of the foundation or a retaining way to keep the surrounding soil from washing out? Does it freeze in your part of the state? Is the shop going to be a slab on grade?

One of the biggest problems here is movement from frost. It is truly amazing how much concrete can move vertically during freezing and thawing.

BJ


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## curliejones (Mar 12, 2012)

curliejones said:


> *Site work - not exactly FINE woodworking.*
> 
> Although a long journey yet ahead, the thought of the new shop is the "dangling carrot" as I work on some of the hard stuff. Built the east foundation wall over the last few days and the west wall will get completed today. I really did not want the long sloping clay hill to maintain, so I'm building a "bulkhead". Let's hope the tropical system that is expected into the Gulf of Mexico this w/e stays away from here and only brings a little rain to areas that need it. At least I get to daydream of building designs while I work on this part. I'm incorporating a French drain against the wall and the clay fill gets packed by hand in order to keep heavy equipment away from the wooden structure. I separate the clay from the gravel using landscape fabric, hoping to keep the drain alive.
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Hi BJ! The shop footprint will be about 5 ft in from each side of this clay pad. This was just an effort to give me a large level spot for a slab without having a slope to maintain later. I will dig footers in the fill. I am affectionately calling this "great wall" my cake pan and intend to fill it to the top to be on grade in the front. Soil upheaval is minimal here in Louisiana and almost nil beneath an enclosed structure capturing any warmth from the earth. My house sits on a footing that is 16" wide and only 8" deep with two #4 rebars about 1/3 from the bottom. Because of the slope of the land, some of the top of the footing is on grade while about 2/3 of it is buried at varying depths, not exceeding 10" I used a block foundation wall atop the footing and a little more than one block is beneath grade at the deepest part. The house is a two story and one story, (half upstairs clerestory) and we've had no settling on this red clay hill. No cracks in drywall or sticking doors in 35 yrs. Just had a great visit with friends who live in nearby Minnesota. They came down at the end of August to re-visit some fond memories of the New Orleans area. All the best to you in your shop this winter; I intend to be outdoors building mine.


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## curliejones (Mar 12, 2012)

* Help! Laminated Veneer or dimension lumber build up?*










Here's a sketch of the shop I hope to start soon. I'm pretty good with framing and have used post and beam for sheds and stick framing in the house. I am at a sticking point in design over something I've not used before, LVL (aka microlam). The sketch shows the front of my proposed shop as 22 ft across and shows a simple shed roof at a 2/12 pitch. I'm in SE Louisiana and have short duration snow loads, though rarely even that. Halfway across the 22 ft and at rafter level you see an X marking the spot for a beam that runs the length of the shop, 30 ft. You are looking at the end of the beam. I plan to put a post, built up from dimension lumber at the halfway point, or 15 ft. I've been searching the tables and having a tough time with them for sizing the beam. The requirements as I see them: I want a beam that can span 15 ft and another beam end to end that can span the next 15 ft to cover the distance front to rear of the shop. I know there will be some days when I'll wish the was no post in the middle of the shop, but I also see it as a way to have a drop point for dust collection and electricity, avoiding cords and hoses running to walls. I can live with it. I've called a couple of local lumber yards and they (liability) want me to spec the size. Seems most advice says go to a "real" lumber yard and they will call the manufacturer who will help you size it. Let's say response has been slow so far, but I still have some diminishing hope. 
- What's on top? I want the beam to support the rafters directly; I will not use ceiling joists. The rafters will be 2X8s 12 ft long, 24" oc, overlapped by a foot each and nailed together atop the beam. I want to sheath the roof with plywood, probably 5/8" sheathing grade. I will use tar paper and then a bubble foil, strip every three ft with 2×4s and fasten a 26 ga. metal roof - not a really light or really heavy roof load unless….
- A few years ago we had an eight inch snowfall here, extremely rare, and my home made house and sheds came through that just fine. I need to be able to "weather" that event should it occur again. I'm 62 and it was the greatest snowfall I've seen. WE have had sustained winds in excess of 100 mph (Katrina) and The 2×6 walls will be completely sheathed with plywood for shear strength.
- So - in my amateurish estimation, there's a deadload of 15 psf and a live load of short duration, possible of 20 psf? That would be the rare snowfall. If I correctly appreciate the physics involved, the roof loads are supported on one end by the the 2×6 walls with double top plates and shared on the other end by the beam they rest upon. 
- Thanks to the curious who have hung in with me thus far. The "Calling all LJs" part of this is has anyone built such a beam to span 15 ft using (3) 2×12s? My case would involve (6) 2×12 as I place a second beam end to end and I've considered a slight stagger of the middle 2×12 by about 1.5 inches to created a tongue and groove effect for the end to end joint where the beams meet. I would join the beams additionally with scabs or metal plates. 
- I know LVL is in style these days, but I'd like to know my options. Getting some SYP 2×12 is easy work, but ordering the LVL is getting to be a pain. I've seen the rules of thumb for LVLs such as 1" of depth for each foot of span. My unsupported spans end up being close to 14 ft with the required bearing surface on each end, so I'm thinking two 1-3/4" X 14" AND 15 FT LONG lvls nailed together would make one beam, then do it again and place it end to end. My goal here is no sagging no regrets!
- Thanks so much for sharing your experience with 3 2×12s and or lvl doubled up.


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## cabmaker (Sep 16, 2010)

curliejones said:


> * Help! Laminated Veneer or dimension lumber build up?*
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15 ft? Double 2×12 should be no problem!

Why not rafter the 22ft run and eliminate any or all interior supports ?

If your wanting the exposed beam look on your elevation just put in a dummy.

Jb


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## Bigrock (Apr 16, 2010)

curliejones said:


> * Help! Laminated Veneer or dimension lumber build up?*
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Hi:
I was wondering why 22'? Most materials come in 4. Is it a lot problem? If it were me and the little cost I would make it a min. of 24'. You will be surprise how fast you will fill up a shop with tools and other items.

You may want to look at a steel beam which would not be as tall or a wood box truss. You do have choices out there today. Look at all of them. Talk to a local Structure Engineer. I have a 28' x 28' shop with 10' ceiling without any columns to get in the way. I used trusses (6 to 12 pitch) loaded for storage and fold up steps. Wood storage.
Have Fun


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## nailbanger2 (Oct 17, 2009)

curliejones said:


> * Help! Laminated Veneer or dimension lumber build up?*
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Another fan of trusses here. If you go with SYP rafters, they should be 16" O.C.


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## curliejones (Mar 12, 2012)

curliejones said:


> * Help! Laminated Veneer or dimension lumber build up?*
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Hi cabmaker and Bigrock. -I believe the 22ft run would take 2×10s min spaced 16"oc. I was going for the lighter stuff for ease of handling, usually working alone. 
Same reasons for a steel beam, tuff for a DIYer working alone. Trusses, same issue. Getting outside help to come when I need them??? well I guess I have trust issues other than in myself.


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## curliejones (Mar 12, 2012)

curliejones said:


> * Help! Laminated Veneer or dimension lumber build up?*
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Footnote* I'm reviewing my chronicle since the shop is finished. I consulted a vendor who put me in touch with a manufacturer of glu-lam beams. A 3.5" x 12" was all I needed and enabled me to use 2×8 rafters, easily handle by one (me) climbing a ladder. I supported the beam in the very middle of the 30 ft span with a built-up post made of (6) 2×4s and (2) 2X10s with the beam resting atop the 2×4s and between the 2×10s making a saddle for the beam ( see pics in Part IV of this series). I decided on a 26 ft span minus the 2×6 walls and the clear span ended up at 24-1/2 ft. The one post in the very middle of the shop give me a spot drop electricity and eventually dust hose and perhaps air, if deemed necessary.


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## curliejones (Mar 12, 2012)

*Finally - something I can see!*





































..when I build the new shop…
This shop/carport has been in the planning/talking stage so long that even the moss it gathered grew old. Though plans changed drastically along the way, there's finally something to see and appreciate. This reminds me so much of building our house 35 yrs ago in that you work and focus intently and it takes going back out an hour or two after quitting to enjoy and appreciate your day's accomplishments.

After nearly four weeks of working alone, I finally called on a few friends for help on Beam Day. I bought a 30 ft glu-lam that simply demanded I get some help. The general thought was to build a "gallows" of sorts starting over the exact middle of the slab where the steel post support is located and running to the top of the 12 ft wall. I thought we'd fashion a sling and lift the beam using block and tackle. The second friend I called and pitched the idea to says" I've got a genie lift that I believe we can use". JACKPOT! We were pretty sure the beam weighed in under the load limit for genie and decided to wait on building the gallows.

Here's a couple of pics - one of the guys planning the lift after carrying the beam to it's approximate location. (I did not realize I was kneeling in gratitude for the help). And a couple more pics showing the beam all locked and loaded. The lift worked like a charm and probably took less than 15 minutes to raise and tie off the beam. You talk about the right tool for the job.

Though I keep imagining myself in there building furniture and cabinets, I'm resigned to enjoying this build, taking my time with careful measuring, and having no hurried moments that cause a do-over. In the meantime, I'll just build furniture and other woodworking projects vicariously through you fellow lumberjocks!


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## GrandpaLen (Mar 6, 2012)

curliejones said:


> *Finally - something I can see!*
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Nice start. Looks like a Grand Space to work. High ceilings and plenty of elbow room.

Best Regards.
Work Safely and have Fun. - Len.


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## Ttier315 (Mar 7, 2014)

curliejones said:


> *Finally - something I can see!*
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I know what you mean by vicariously through fellow Lumberjocks, I feel the same way some times but the bottom line is as long as your building something, whether its your new shop or a curio cabinet, it's all good


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

curliejones said:


> *Finally - something I can see!*
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great progress there curlie
read the whole series

i too have been building a shop alone
for 3 years now
finally getting the roof deck on
(with some help for a day and a half
and the occasional LJ guest visitor)

it's all in the journey as they say
enjoy it

well done


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## curliejones (Mar 12, 2012)

*A month of progress!*



















Started the rafter system today and snapped a few pics. This was me enjoying some of Shiner, TX. finest after the first wall section one month ago.


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## oluf (Jan 29, 2010)

curliejones said:


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I envy you. It is looking very nice. It looks as though you are priming or painting all the lumber before you put it up. Is that correct and if so why? Whatever you are doing it makes for a great looking job site.


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## curliejones (Mar 12, 2012)

curliejones said:


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I'm using an exterior flat white on all the framing lumber with the exception of the post and glu lam beam - that's an exterior stain. MY wife says it glows in the dark, but my reason is that there's hope for a little protection from the rain and sun. Since I intend to sheathe the building, the blocking is superfluous, but then again, I'm hoping that the paint and blocking will add some stability to the wood while exposed to the elements. This will take a while to get under roof and I hope there's nothing to do over.


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## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

curliejones said:


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Congrats, moving forward is always positive


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

curliejones said:


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Looking good. Congratulations on the build


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## DonB (Jan 11, 2011)

curliejones said:


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Looking good. If I only had that much room…....and time…...and $$$. I do have 1/2 a 2-car garage, so I really cant complain. When the weather is good I can back out the car, then I have a whole 2-car garage since everything is on wheels. Wheels provide options. Good luck and make lots-a-good sawdust.


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## curliejones (Mar 12, 2012)

curliejones said:


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Finished up the last couple of rafters this morning and thought I'd post this very basic jig that helped me a lot. I only cut rafters every couple of years and looked around online for "tips and tricks" and only found the very basic method using the framing square and explanations of length, seat cut, plumb cut, etc. I was looking for some magic to make my rafter cuts consistently accurate. This was not magic, but evolved over the last couple of days and turned out to be a big help. Rather than use a rafter for a template ( 14 ft 2×8s should not be lifted unless you really need to move them), I decided to make my template from thin plywood. I ripped the plywood to match my 2×8s, or 7-3/8", and used a miter saw to cut the proper angle. There are charts available online to tell you what angle (in degrees) a 2, 3, 4, 5, etc. in 12 pitch corresponds to. I marked out the "birdsmouth" cuts on the plywood using a framing square and here's what's new for me - I drilled two holes exactly 4" from both the angle cut for rafter ends and the seat cut of the birdsmouth. I made the holes in the template with a 1/8" drill bit. When I use the template to mark a rafter end cut, I also stick the pencil into each of the two holed and spin the pencil. I then use the straight edge of the jig to draw a line that is parallel to and four inches from my cut line. Four inches is the distance from the edge of my circular saw's shoe to the blade. I place the straight edge of the jig along the four-inch line and use it as a guide for the saw. The picture shows parallel lines that mark my cut and the line parallel to it for my guide. Once I started using this method, my cuts became quicker and more accurate. For those of you who only occasionally cut rafters, I'll say this made my work much easier. With a good sharp blade in the circular saw, only moderate pressure was required to hold the cutting jig in place.


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## curliejones (Mar 12, 2012)

*Shout it from the rooftop - I have one!*




























I have no idea why this did not post yesterday but I'll try again! After 9 days of rain, I finally got a tin roof on the shop. Within a week, I have put sheathing on the walls and wrapped it in either house wrap, double bubble foil, or both. I feel it is somewhat protected but I'm having to wipe down the framing lumber where mold started growing after all the rain. One particular thing I wanted to mention - in installing "nailers" (no one ever says screwers, though that's what we use for a tin roof these days) I cut a water channel in the back of the 2xs so the horizontal stripping would not retard the flow of water too greatly. I was surprised how well it worked during all the rain. The roof would drain and dry in a couple of hours and I had to settle for short work spurts before it began raining again.

Hopefully, my next blog entry will show some doors and windows installed! The extra covered area that was intended for firewood storage is just screaming "porch" to me, so there's a change order in process!


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## Buckethead (Apr 14, 2013)

curliejones said:


> *Shout it from the rooftop - I have one!*
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Congratulations on the new shop! It looks like an ample space. The covered lanai is a very nice feature. That space cane be used for all those tasks you don't want to do indoors.

The term for those nailers the roofing attaches to is purlins.


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## whitebeast88 (May 27, 2012)

curliejones said:


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congrats.thats looks like it'll be a great place to work.keep us posted as you go with plenty of pic's…...


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## freddy1962 (Feb 27, 2014)

curliejones said:


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Nice! You have to be excited.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

curliejones said:


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Looks mighty good and well planned out too. I like the porch idea.


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## curliejones (Mar 12, 2012)

*Finishing work - things really do slow down!*



















A little shop update and a BIG question??
Here's a couple of pics of the latest progress. Fiber cement siding on two sides and I'll start sheet metal on other two today. I've been relegated to shortened workdays with the heat of summer upon me, but I have managed to paint almost all the inside surfaces white (OSB) an hour or two at a time. The windows and exhaust fan are all in and I've built frames for and hung a couple of passage doors and the roll-ups are ordered (couple of weeks ago) so I'm hoping to close the place up soon.

BIG ?? Has anyone found a brand of CFL that they find reliable? I have planned to use CFLs in a 12" white reflector for lots of general lighting. I've also bought some 4 ft T8 fluorescent fixtures (just 4 so far) and I'd like to find a better built CFL in the 100W equivalent size. I find the failure rate for those I've bought for the house to be fairly high, guessing at 40-50%. They have either flickered annoyingly or just quit after a short service life. Granted - these have been from Wally or Big Orange. I see many choices from online vendors and at higher prices. I am afraid, however, that the higher-price does not translate into more reliable. I see many complains about name-branded bulbs, such as Sylvania and Phillips and I believe they are mostly coming from the same offshore factories with poor QA/QC. I don't mind paying a little more if I can feel assured I'll get a better product.

Any suggestions or your experiences are appreciated.


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## JulianLech (Jan 13, 2011)

curliejones said:


> *Finishing work - things really do slow down!*
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I have had the same experience with CFL fixtures failing. We installed high bay fixtures that hold 6 T-8 CFLs in the factory. These fixtures have 2 ballasts and many of the ballasts just fail after a few months. Did not measure the failure rate but is was not as high as 40%. At the home workshop (garage) I use CFL fixtures from Lowes or HomeDepot (2 T-8 CFLs); had only one fixture go bad after about 2 years. Don't have any suggestions regarding which brand is better.


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## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

curliejones said:


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That's going to be a nice shop. It's looking really good. I built a shop a while back and so far I've had good luck with my light fixtures and bulbs. I'll see if I can find the info for them an get it back to you. I got them from the local hd box store.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


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## woodshopmike (Nov 5, 2013)

curliejones said:


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really happy for you. I know you're stoked to have a dedicated shop! I dream of the day…


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## Sarit (Oct 21, 2009)

curliejones said:


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Some may disagree, but I've had a ton of success with the Ecosmart bulbs from the big orange store. A 4 pack is $10 so there's not much to lose to try them out. I also installed a whoe house surge protector and put the lights on a separate circuit. I think having nice stable power for your lights makes a bigger difference than the brand of bulb.


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## curliejones (Mar 12, 2012)

curliejones said:


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http://www.cepro.com/article/the_myth_of_whole_house_surge_protection/

Greetings LJs. Thanks for the input about shop lighting. Sarit, I researched whole house surge protection and found a few articles comparing the two common types of surge protection. There seems to be a consensus that series filter technology (point of use) has superior results at protecting sensitive electronic equipment. The above link is one such comparison writeen by an engineer in the field. I am extrapolating a bit, but the starting of power tools, especially the larger ones, e.g. table saw, jointer, could produce "in-shop" surges with great frequency and damage electronics therein. Rated at a 12 amp output, the Tripp Lite Isobar units with 4 plug-ins look like a sound investment. A couple of these to protect two different lighting circuits would call for a $100 investment, could easily be owner-installed, and have no wear parts. 
I only spent a few minutes researching this, but I like the simplicity of installing a male plug on each of two feed circuits for the lighting. I plan to run about 2000 Watts of CFLs and 4 ft fluorescent T-8 tubes combined. 
- You might find another posting where I show a reflector (I purchased several) and a ceramic fixture to use in conjunction with CFLs. I'm doing this in looking toward the future when LED bulbs become more reasonably priced. There will be no need to replace fixtures; just switch out the bulbs. One addition to the set up I previously commented on - I will buy metal bulb guards to protect the CFLs (LEDs in the future) if I can determine that the wire guards will fit onto the reflectors that I already purchased. I feel pretty sure the "standard-sized" base of the bulb guards will clamps around the ceramic inserts in the reflectors. 
- Should anyone read this and become interested in the reflectors, I advise you to shop them. I see them for as much as $25 and as little as $9.24. If you are buying several to light up a shop, this translates into some serious change. Coleman Cable and Designer's Edge are two brands that the same reflector is marketed under. The part number L-1710 is used for both brands.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

curliejones said:


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Lighting experience:
CFL were a great idea a couple of years ago, and are still OK.
However with the development of LED lights technology they are now second best.
T5 lighting I would not ever use again mainly because of the cost and very short life.
The Current T8 lights beat T5s hands down.

Here is a house I just wired with 12×30w Oyster LED lights these lights are great value for money and will never need changing, unless there is a failure.

Its an under house workshop for a car mechanic the lights are in 3 rows of four LED lights switched in two sections of each row Light 1 and 3 and the Light 2 and 4 total power is 360 w




























Something to consider


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## curliejones (Mar 12, 2012)

curliejones said:


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An update - Electrical took a long time…. my first time to work Metal Clad conduit and then underground supply from the house in this hard red clay..whew! Glad that's over! The shop is now set up as a 90 amp sub-panel. BTW, I ran a separate 1" conduit with coax and phone line after back filling the trench halfway. That can be ignored for the time being. My MP3 player thru a cheap boom box is working fine for now.

I finally completed the electrical work and chose to install a "whole-house" surge breaker. I have a GE box and so bought their surge breaker for around $40 at BORG. I did run tool circuits separate from lighting circuits in hopes of limiting surges caused by tool motor starts. I suppose time will tell if this is good enough. I've only run a few tools in the shop so far building a general purpose narrow workbench to go along a wall. Today I hope to build a rolling drawer that fits beneath that workbench and just between the legs. Since the footprint is already spoken for by the table, I can gain about 6 cu ft of storage beneath the table.

The lighting dilemma - solved? Hmmm? It is bright enough everywhere I need it to be. 
I put new ballasts in (5) 4-bulb 2×4 troffers, - the kind used in drop-in ceilings, and painted the white interior surface with a chrome spray paint. With the plastic lens removed, these put out a tremendous amount of light. I balanced these with (5) 2-bulb "shop lights" and I'm using T8 32W daylight bulbs in all. 
I have about eight of the CFL bulbs, 23 watt to 27 watt that are rated as 100W equivalents. These are in the 12" round reflectors to direct light downward and are located mostly at entrance and storage locations. Additionally, I put track lighting with 3-5 75W halogen bulbs in 5 different perimeter locations for task lighting that can be turned on and off only when needed (feel that meter spin?). The track lighting was gifted from a pal who demos retail space then re-builds; he even gave me a case of halogen bulbs. Although this sounds like (and is) a gumbo of lighting, I chose carefully where the fixtures were placed and used a hierarchy dictated by anticipated tool use. I put two duplex outlets per 4-square box in three different ceiling locations so the fluorescent fixtures can be relocated if needed and limited only by the length of their cord. 
I did buy a couple of LED bulbs for down lights in track heads, but I won't buy anymore of the cool white that are way too blue for my taste. 
- I will build a couple more storage places and sort my 35 year collection of hardware and tools before I begin any serious woodwork but for now, I have elbow room. The adventure continues!


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## curliejones (Mar 12, 2012)

*Progress! Time to move a few tools!*




























It's been some time since I last chronicled the shop progress and I'm looking forward to moving in, albeit slowly. I painted the inside, built a porch, and wired the building. I must pay attention to a few things that I've ignored over the last several months while shop building, and then run underground power to the new space. I've had ample temporary power, using the 30A 120V underground wiring that supplied the old shed, it will be sooo nice not to deal with extension cords daily.

I have been surprised at the time required to wire the building as this was my first effort with flexible metal conduit. There are beaucoup (plenty) receptacles and the 4-square boxes allowed me to run separate circuits to each of the two duplex outlets in many locations. Here's a couple of pics from 3 weeks ago; most of the recent progress was wiring and the porch is now painted.









Two pics show the loft storage area and then the built-in storage between the joists beneath.


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## Tomoose (Mar 1, 2009)

curliejones said:


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Looking really great. You are going to love all that space, I am sure.

Tom


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## Sigung (Nov 20, 2013)

curliejones said:


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> 
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> ...


Wow, you lucky dog you. NICE!


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## woodshopmike (Nov 5, 2013)

curliejones said:


> *Progress! Time to move a few tools!*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


It's lookin' good! I like the storage loft. I'm sure I'd forget about 90% of the things I put up there


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## curliejones (Mar 12, 2012)

*Building shop furniture - Help with hardboard??*

Some time ago. I built the "Not Ready for Prime Time" workbench and described its intended purposes in my projects. It looks like this. http://lumberjocks.com/assets/pictures/projects/340962-438x.jpg?1351600503
The top is actually an old lumber core door that is banded and topped with 1/4" hardboard. I am just moving into the new shop and trying to organize as I go, a daunting task indeed! I know things will evolve but I'm trying to start in a good place and then let working in the shop help with the decision-making about tool and supply storage and placement.

This particular workbench has carried tools and supplies for 7 months and now that I'm clearing the top off, the hardboard has returned to its old habit of lifting slightly up off the table. I've tried 2 sided tape (though in small strips) to no success and I am not really wanting to put screws into it. I'm curious to know if anyone has tried hot glue with the possibility that it might be re-heated with a hair drier or torch if the hardboard should need to be replaced??

This table is built for an outfeed from the table saw and will do double duty as an assembly surface. I may eventually be forced to screw the top down, but I'd like to try keeping the metal away from the top if at all possible.

Thanks for your experienced suggestions!


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

curliejones said:


> *Building shop furniture - Help with hardboard??*
> 
> Some time ago. I built the "Not Ready for Prime Time" workbench and described its intended purposes in my projects. It looks like this. http://lumberjocks.com/assets/pictures/projects/340962-438x.jpg?1351600503
> The top is actually an old lumber core door that is banded and topped with 1/4" hardboard. I am just moving into the new shop and trying to organize as I go, a daunting task indeed! I know things will evolve but I'm trying to start in a good place and then let working in the shop help with the decision-making about tool and supply storage and placement.
> ...


Looked at the bench. Nice clean design. Is there any distortion in the substrate material? 2 sided tape is often used for making multiple pieces with the same pattern. May work here?

Second thought is contact adhesive. Might try an experiment to see what works?

Another thought is thicker hardboard? Might have more rigidity?

Good luck!


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## curliejones (Mar 12, 2012)

curliejones said:


> *Building shop furniture - Help with hardboard??*
> 
> Some time ago. I built the "Not Ready for Prime Time" workbench and described its intended purposes in my projects. It looks like this. http://lumberjocks.com/assets/pictures/projects/340962-438x.jpg?1351600503
> The top is actually an old lumber core door that is banded and topped with 1/4" hardboard. I am just moving into the new shop and trying to organize as I go, a daunting task indeed! I know things will evolve but I'm trying to start in a good place and then let working in the shop help with the decision-making about tool and supply storage and placement.
> ...


Thanks Doc. I believe the thicker hardboard might be the ticket. I simply could not find anything other than this around here and I believe it is only 3/16". The substrate is an old lumber core doors that are very flat and heavy. I'm thinking glue it and worry about replacement later.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

curliejones said:


> *Building shop furniture - Help with hardboard??*
> 
> Some time ago. I built the "Not Ready for Prime Time" workbench and described its intended purposes in my projects. It looks like this. http://lumberjocks.com/assets/pictures/projects/340962-438x.jpg?1351600503
> The top is actually an old lumber core door that is banded and topped with 1/4" hardboard. I am just moving into the new shop and trying to organize as I go, a daunting task indeed! I know things will evolve but I'm trying to start in a good place and then let working in the shop help with the decision-making about tool and supply storage and placement.
> ...


The contact adhesive I'm talking about is used for attatching and removing patterns used in scroll saw work. In lighter amounts it is something you can remove easily? Mark the Woodwhisperer uses it when using a templete to route several pieces at the same time?

If you go with contact cement as in Formica surfaces? Yep you will be remaking it later. LOL!

Any how make some sawdust! Just wear a dust mask. LOL!


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## curliejones (Mar 12, 2012)

curliejones said:


> *Building shop furniture - Help with hardboard??*
> 
> Some time ago. I built the "Not Ready for Prime Time" workbench and described its intended purposes in my projects. It looks like this. http://lumberjocks.com/assets/pictures/projects/340962-438x.jpg?1351600503
> The top is actually an old lumber core door that is banded and topped with 1/4" hardboard. I am just moving into the new shop and trying to organize as I go, a daunting task indeed! I know things will evolve but I'm trying to start in a good place and then let working in the shop help with the decision-making about tool and supply storage and placement.
> ...


Hi Doc! I checked out Marc's technique and I may try some of the contact spray adhesive he uses. I bought a can a month ago, I just need to find it in all the moving mayhem.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

curliejones said:


> *Building shop furniture - Help with hardboard??*
> 
> Some time ago. I built the "Not Ready for Prime Time" workbench and described its intended purposes in my projects. It looks like this. http://lumberjocks.com/assets/pictures/projects/340962-438x.jpg?1351600503
> The top is actually an old lumber core door that is banded and topped with 1/4" hardboard. I am just moving into the new shop and trying to organize as I go, a daunting task indeed! I know things will evolve but I'm trying to start in a good place and then let working in the shop help with the decision-making about tool and supply storage and placement.
> ...


Let us know if it works…LOL! It should, but practice first….:<)


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## curliejones (Mar 12, 2012)

*Incorporating "stolen" ideas*




























Thanks again to all the participating lumberjocks or woodworker by any "handle". I am in the process of moving into the new shop and as I move and sort and buy and sell things for organization and Phase change (from carport temporary workshop to new digs) I realize how much I owe to those who take time to share and communicate their ideas.

About 3/4 ths of the way through moving tools and supplies, I realized it was time to build a bench that I'd anticipated for a couple of years. This bench is for general purpose and gives me storage on two levels beneath. I'll probably keep a stool there and use the good lighting for drawing out projects and collecting tools that are in use. The shelf holds small electrics for now and some small nail guns. The large drawer beneath was a refinement that came form someone sharing their ideas. It is a great addition and makes good use of the floor space already commanded by the footprint of the bench. I put the drawer on fixed casters and created side guides that are loosely fit to keep things from getting "caddywompus". (I hope I spelled that correctly).

At 17" X 45" X 11" deep inside the drawer is a fine storage locker. It is 6" less wide than the top and matches the shelf width to help keep trash out. Shelf and drawer are recessed to allow for sit in/ toe in so I can sit comfortably and somewhat under the bench. The top - I love these old doors. I bought several lumber core doors that are 7 ft long and 2 ft wide to build narrow benches. I can easily reach and operate the windows and these doors that are probably from the 50's-60s are a full 1-3/4" thick with no particle board, just plain old hardwood. When I cut the 1/4" off to get rid of the hinge mortise, it looks like birch inside. The veneers are in decent enough shape on these to be left as is. I did get to build this bench in the new shop and love having a little elbow room - I'm sure it will all fill up soon enough! And they say you can't have too many clamps? or is it square feet?


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## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

curliejones said:


> *Incorporating "stolen" ideas*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Wow, hanging tools so you can see them wood storage and a great bench, great ideas and well yes, it is clamps and square footage together


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## curliejones (Mar 12, 2012)

*Dust collection help, please? Ridgid TS 3612, Ridgid JP06101, Grrizzly sander G1014Z*

This is new to me and I've searched a bit but not found specifically what I need to know. I have a small dust collector, Jet DC650, bought used and this is my first set up. I have the Ridgid TS 3612 with a dust shroud beneath it. The outlet is 4" diameter but it is stepped as though there should be a hard pipe inserted into it. Kinda reminds me of a plumbing elbow where the pipe would be inserted into it. 
I also have a Ridgid jointer model JP06101 with a 4" diameter dust outlet, but the jointer has a smooth pipe as though a dust collection hoe should fit just over it with a band clamp. 
Anyone having this saw may be able to tell me if the common union for joining two sections of DC 4" hose is what is needed to fit inside the stepped outlet of the table saw. 
I have seen others comments saying their TS3612 is fitted with a dust tray that accommodates a shop vac hose. Not the case here - MY outlet is 4" but is stepped inside as though it needs a hard fitting placed within that inch and to which a 4" hose would then attach.

The Grizzly sander has only a 2" outlet and I'm not sure whether an adapter of 2" x 4" is what is needed or would there be a few inches of 2" hose that connects to the sander and then to an adapter that would accept the 4" hose. I'm in a rural location with no retail nearby and want to nail this down before ordering and having parts shipped.

I plan to upgrade my bag, build an accompanying chip collector (dual stage) and have the set up on wheels to hook up (quickly if possible) to whatever tool I want to use. I picture the system living beside my miter saw, which seems to be the most commonly used tool in the shop. For the 12" miter saw, I hope to fashion a hood behind it and attach a fitting for the 4" hose.

Thanks for any advice for these specific applications. I have already read quite a bit about the generalities, but have not found info regarding these specific tools. 
Thanks in advance and Merry Christmas to all you LJs!


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## Grumpymike (Jan 23, 2012)

curliejones said:


> *Dust collection help, please? Ridgid TS 3612, Ridgid JP06101, Grrizzly sander G1014Z*
> 
> This is new to me and I've searched a bit but not found specifically what I need to know. I have a small dust collector, Jet DC650, bought used and this is my first set up. I have the Ridgid TS 3612 with a dust shroud beneath it. The outlet is 4" diameter but it is stepped as though there should be a hard pipe inserted into it. Kinda reminds me of a plumbing elbow where the pipe would be inserted into it.
> I also have a Ridgid jointer model JP06101 with a 4" diameter dust outlet, but the jointer has a smooth pipe as though a dust collection hoe should fit just over it with a band clamp.
> ...


OK, let's take them one at a time here … The TS 3612 has been modified by the previous owner with an after market dust port, so I would take some measurements of the inside and outside Dia. and look at one of the woodworker supply stores like 'Rockler' and find the fitting you need (maybe an adapter?) ... there are many and confusing at first, but hang in there.
On my old Rigid 2424 it was a 2-1/4" fitting for a Shop-Vac, but the 4" was available.

On the Jointer, you are right, either the hose slips over the port or the plastic hose-end slips over it … measure it to tell for sure. (hose-ends are available at your supply store)

On your Grizzley, the port will be either 2" or 2-1/4" and there are indeed adapters available. (A 2" will slip inside a 2-1/4" fitting and the 2-1/4" hose will slip over it for use with a band clamp).

Look at the Woodcraft, Rockler or other catalogues to see what is available, then decide how you want your system to work. Just a side note, I made a lot of mine with a circle cutter and scraps of wood glued together …

I hope this helps.


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## curliejones (Mar 12, 2012)

*The annex?*





































The shop building is nearing completion and the temperature differential this morning encouraged me to make another blog entry. It's a little cold for my Deep South butt to start on anything outside and there's always the paper work (or computer work) that needs catching up. This project began with buying a small camping trailer a little over five years ago. I wanted a decent place to keep it and my lovely wife, with three times the wisdom and foresight of an average person, suggested a new workshop in the plans. The design evolved over time from a "Kentucky" barn, to the clerestory roof design that matches our house. FYI a Kentucky barn is a tall middle gable-roofed center aisle with symmetric drop-sheds to both sides. The 3-bay design was retired when I sold a boat that had been part of a salt-marsh fishing passion for a quarter century. Hey, things and people change.

After investigating different buildings, it was my destiny to build a wood-frame shop and use the many doors and windows that I'd purchased at clearance sales, etc. I wanted things suited to a wood building. The latest installment though, is the camper carport which I really wanted built from all metal. Finding a builder was quite a challenge and I found a builder who would cooperate with material and design ideas from me.

I'll attach a few pics showing some of the recent refinements I've made to the carport as I am learning a few things about attaching to a metal structure. I hope some of these ideas help others make decisions with less head-scratching (a time-consumer for me).

One picture shows the rear roll-up door coming from the enclosed shop. I already used this door to work on the outer slab on several occasions and once our small camper is in place, there will still be a generous layout area on a flat slab and all now under cover.

One of the surprises for me is how well the shop building holds a stable temperature. It is 16 degrees outside this morning and about 30 degrees warmer in the shop. I used mostly a "double-bubble" foil and wrapped the building with the intention of fighting off the radiant heat of our summers. The open carport is well-vented and should not trap excessive heat. One secondary benefit I expect is that the carport, placed on the west side of the shop, will shade the workshop from the afternoon sun, a real boon to summer comfort.

I hung four lights beneath 1/2" EMT bent to a 90 and attached these to the overhead purlins using u-bolts. I slit some rubber hose to go around the EMT and put vinyl tubing over the u-bolts at contact points. This was an effort to decrease movement. The tie plates and 1/2" of the u-bolts were placed in the channels provided by the profile of the PBR metal roof panels. I threaded a compression connector into the light fixture base and tightened it onto the end of the vertical EMT, providing a clean industrial look.

One picture shows the 2×4s that I attached to the 12 gauge tubing that frames the back walls. I had a bit of slotted angle iron left from a gift of rivet-lock shelving so I cut 3" pieces for brackets that are affixed with 1/4-14 self-drilling screws. I then attached the 2×4s with short lag screws from both sides. I will use dual-slotted shelf standards and 20" supported brackets. I have raved about this shelving system in other posts.

The last task completed was installing the camper hook-up under the carport. It is on a dedicated 30A circuit going back to the shop load center. This is the same box that I purchased at the start of the project and it was my source of temporary e-service during construction. The old shed that once stood here was supplied with an underground 10-2, so I used that cable for temporary service while building. The 30A RV plug is readily converted to the standard 120V pattern with a pigtail since both are 120 Volts hook ups. I wanted to get this power source outside asap to avoid extension cords coming from inside the shop. The next step will be a concrete apron to allow ingress/egress onto the carport and into the front shop door on rare occasions. The weather must first cooperate for concrete work and in the meantime, I'm considering building the workbench for use under the carport and against the rear wall where the aforementioned shelving will be.

I am looking forward to improving the shop layout and getting dust collection figured out. I'll soon have the carport attached to our house reclaimed and the temporary walls removed. Down the road a little bit, there's some furniture being built.


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## curliejones (Mar 12, 2012)

*Almost done?*




























A few pics to update this chronicle. Lights, huge workbench, awning, and concrete apron all recently done. I waited 2-1/2 weeks for curing then moved the camper in. That's how the whole thing started anyway. If you buy a camper…... voila, a new shop!


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## pretzer (Oct 20, 2014)

curliejones said:


> *Almost done?*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


A couple of old tractors wood sure look good in the open part.


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## curliejones (Mar 12, 2012)

curliejones said:


> *Almost done?*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I have a couple of loads of soil to move around after building this thing, so the dream of a tractor is there. In my dream, not necessarily old, but one with a front end loader and a blade for the rear. It seems, I dream in orange or green a lot!


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## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

curliejones said:


> *Almost done?*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Wow!. That is a great shop building.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


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## curliejones (Mar 12, 2012)

curliejones said:


> *Almost done?*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Greetings, helluvawreck aka Charles.
Thanks for the link. I just checked out your shop build blog and WOW! to you too! I did not finish the inside, just painted the framing before construction and the sheeting inside after. That's quite a spread of tools that you have to do "research" for your business. How has organization of space been? looks like you've had a year since your last shop build entry. I was also happy to see the link to hand tools since that's the direction I'm flirting with currently. I just ordered a few chisels and a couple of pull saws and plan to build a workbench this calendar year. I noticed a fine looking bench in your stable. a Sjoberg?
Best 2 U, curliejones


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

curliejones said:


> *Almost done?*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


A few whoop whoops and a couple o yee-hahs. New shops are alway fun and awesome. One step at a time. Lookin good


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## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

curliejones said:


> *Almost done?*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yeah, congrats


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## curliejones (Mar 12, 2012)

*Cooling the Workshop*














































Now that we've had a month of high temps, I wanted to add a few pics to my workshop blog and report on the design. I'm very pleased with the passive cooling ideas and am happy to report success at achieving comfort (relative, of course) with one 8000 btu window unit.

I chose to build the workshop with wood framing so that I could incorporate several desirables into the shop. I wanted several windows and needed /wanted four doors. I also chose not to insulate the walls/per se and simply painted the inside of the sheathing white for brightness in the shop.

The few pictures following will show some of the design ideas that are working well for me. Although there is practically no R-value in "bubble foil", it does repel radiant heat. I wrapped the entire building in it and maintained the required air space using 1.5" thick "nailers". You'll notice that I furred out for window and door openings and placed the stripping much closer together where the 12" wide cement siding was applied vertically. The two sides that have sheet metal exterior did not need the same level of support as it is much lighter per square foot.

On the roof, I used the radiant barrier foil as well as galvanized sheet metal which will be shiny and repel radiant heat well for the first few years. When the metal roofing dulls, the bright foil will remain.

There's a large shade tree to the east of the shop, giving morning shade, but I also used wide overhang for one third of the east wall, then a porch to help shade the many windows and east wall. Though insulated, the windows do rob me of btus and interior wall space. This is, however, too pretty a place to not enjoy the view.

With the building on a concrete slab, the earth helps to temper the building and I was pleased last summer to notice that the shop stayed reasonably cool until 1 or 2 pm. In December, I took great pleasure in having someone else do the work and had a metal carport built on the west side of the shop. In designing the carport, my goals were simple, keep the sun off the camper it is designed for and shade the workshop from the afternoon sun. There's generous air flow with large openings at the front and rear of the carport, as well as the top and bottom of the west wall. I believe on key feature is the air gap at the top of the east facing clerestory wall. As the hot air rises, it is allowed to escape out the top. The carport "breathes", not trapping heated air and at the same time has reduced wind resistance to storms compared to solid walls. We had 100 mph winds here during Hurricane Katrina, something I hope not see again.

I can comfortably work in the shop on a sunny afternoon, temps in the low 90s, and not break a sweat with only the 8000 btu a/c running. I generally start the a/c a couple of hours before spending time out there. The floor covers about 750 sq ft and there's room overhead ranging from 9 ft to 13 ft. My one goal for improvement is to find some quilts or comforters to attach to the inside of the two roll up doors that are not being opened during this hot season. Should I want to unload material through the large front door, I'll simply remove the 8 or so spring clamps holding the quilts in place.

I strongly recommend shade, either natural or man-made. I've used agricultural shade cloth on several occasions over swimming pools, decks, etc. and that's an easy and cheap way to go. I'd thought I might use it to shade the west wall of the carport, but that seems superfluous at this point. Good luck at keeping your cool this summer, fellow LJs!


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## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

curliejones said:


> *Cooling the Workshop*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Curlie, this is looking great. Nice work.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


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## SteveMI (May 19, 2009)

curliejones said:


> *Cooling the Workshop*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Seems like your planning worked out well. Shows that understanding the principles can get a good result.
Steve.


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## BigD1 (Oct 26, 2009)

curliejones said:


> *Cooling the Workshop*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Nothing like a WOOD SHOP!!!! Looking good!!!!! Can't wait to see the finished project. 
I love my Wood-Not, What-Not shop.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

curliejones said:


> *Cooling the Workshop*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I'm jealous already. Looks big and good.


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## atouchofoz (Jul 2, 2015)

curliejones said:


> *Cooling the Workshop*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


A wood-shop after my own heart!
Suzanne


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## ForestGrl (Jun 5, 2015)

curliejones said:


> *Cooling the Workshop*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Wow, it's fabulous! Must be fun to be able to build one from the ground up, just to suit your fancy. I admire your "passive cooling" approach, well done! How about rare earth magnets to hold the quilts in place (oh, oops, are the doors steel or aluminum?).


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## curliejones (Mar 12, 2012)

curliejones said:


> *Cooling the Workshop*
> 
> 
> 
> ...





















Thanks for comments and compliments. Hey BigD1, it is finished enough. There's so much to do during the summer here, but I do work out here a couple days a week making "shop things" so far. Sets of clamping cauls, shop cart, featherboards, and shelves for router table. .. and yes thanks ForestGirl very much fun (and work) and the roll up doors are steel so magnets should work just fine. I finished the shop in late 2014, working from March until November. The carport guys came for Christmas 2014. I'm very thankful to have the opportunity to do this upgrade. The old building was from all salvaged material and it served me well for 35 years. What is missing in the photo of the old shop is a huge live oak tree that saved my old shop from three huge pine trees that fell during Katrina. The old live oak was split and had to be removed before the new project began, but it did provide shade in the old shop for so many years.


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## curliejones (Mar 12, 2012)

*Accessing the new shop- in a few simple steps*














































Known in the trades as Concrete Masonry Units, there's such a wide variety of shapes and sizes that it boggles the brain. I'll show you a few different sets of steps that are comfortable for climbing and descending (safety first, always) and I expect them to be durable as well. I have about a 32" difference in elevation from front to rear on the plot where I built the shop/carport last year and I chose to build a retaining wall rather than have a huge sloping hill gobbling up real estate. This, of course mandated steps to transition the difference in elevation. The two large sets are at the rear corners of the plot, while the short and simple set are near the front of the building. These were all made using readily available cmus from the big orange retail giant. The blue one near my home did not carry 12×16x8 inch blocks. The different blocks used were 4×8x16 solids, 4×8x2-1/4 (brick size), 12×16x8, and 12×12 x 2" stepping stones. The small set has mortar "bagged in" for a more finished look. Also do not apply sealer - it will make wet steps slippery!


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## curliejones (Mar 12, 2012)

*Lighting recall*

Just when I was about to get an early start this morning--I discovered that there's a recall on several models of fluorescent fixtures made for Cooper Lighting. I bought seven of one particular model for use in the shop so I took the time to file for replacement. There are quite a few different models at risk for fire hazard, some are residential and some are typical shop lights, so if you've bought fluorescent fixtures by Cooper Lighting, an Eaton Company, do your homework and get them replaced.


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## curliejones (Mar 12, 2012)

*Shop lighting - alternatives and Safety Recall that probably affects some Lumberjocks*










Living On The Edge…

please check out safety recall at the end of this posting. 
The edge of a lighting technology revolution, that is. When it came time to light the new workshop, I wanted two things; lumens and economy. I am a "make do with what you have" sorta guy but try to not take that to a fault. You have to achieve your end goal or saving money is false economy. 
Around 18 months ago, LED lighting seemed terribly expensive with around $8 required for a 60 Watt equivalent bulb. At these prices, I would want them to generate electricity and sell it back to the POCO.
T8 fluorescent technology was a proven commodity but I had no experience with it. I simply knew that the inexpensive "shop lights" from my t-12 trials of old had little longevity in a dusty and humid workshop. 
Incandescent and halogen bulbs, though tried and true, make the meter spin so fast while producing unwanted heat that I could not consider them for general lighting. I ended up with a 4-part approach to shop lighting that I'll describe further. 
1) CFL bulbs seemed like a good way to go for me. I doubt that many live up to their life expectancy, but at just a few dollars each, a 23 Watt investment to get 100 Watts of lumens was interesting. I needed fixtures to accept these bulbs and decided to use keyless ceramic fixtures and add a reflector to direct light downward. I also wanted to protect the bulbs from accidental breakage so I added a wire cage to the set up. The end product looks like this. I bought chrome paint to enhance a white reflector.

.









Ignore the string of party lights
Just ignore the party lights; they get plugged in for special occasions only. This gives me a standard socket that can be used for an LED bulb when the prices get better. I bought a couple of Y-splitters in case I wanted two bulbs per fixture in a couple of places but this has not been needed and it would eliminate the ability to use the wire cage. Each assembly ran around $20 and I'm using 8 of them. 
2) I ordered one T-8 fixture, an inexpensive shop light with a "residential" ballast and hung it under the carport when I moved all the tools there. That was only part of the lighting in my temporary shop but I was surprised at how well that particular fixture performed. (more on that fixture later).
3) After a bit of research telling me of so many happy customers with T8 technology, I accepted five 4-bulb troffers from my electrician nephew. Four 48" bulbs per fixture promised lots of lumens and the price was right. I removed the acrylic lens. Painted the inside chrome, and installed new ballasts and bulbs. $125 invested in the five for a lot of lumens.









2) revisited - I decided to buy six more of the 2-bulb "shop lights" when I found them for $15 and I wanted the same exact Cooper Lighting fixture that I'd tested under the carport. So there's roughly $150 in new fixtures and bulbs.

There is a row of these fixtures running parallel to a row of the 4-bulb fixtures in half the shop. In the other half the shop, there's a storage loft that takes up half of that half the shop. The two-bulb narrow reflector fixtures were perfect for mounting between the floor joists of the loft. You can see in the pic above how one 16" cavity was skipped between the two pair of fixtures. There's lots of lumens here. 









4) The fourth component of my lighting was task lighting that I placed along exterior walls above benches. I used track lighting that was an assortment of different brands. A good friend who worked in retail retrofit and new construction, passed along new and used components over some years and I had to buy a few pieces of track to overcome incompatibility among and between brands. I spent around fifty dollars to enable me to use most of the $300 worth of track heads that I already had. Even if you don't have such a benefactor, this stuff is readily available at reduced costs buying through popular auctions. You just have to study the compatibility issues. Some manufacturers, such as Juno, make two different lines that may not fit when mixed. The particulars are usually available through the manufacturer's websites. 
These fixtures are installed above workbench areas and are switched at the bench. I used mostly halogen bulbs that will make the meter spin so these task lights are generally used when needed and not left on. I'm currently experimenting with a couple of LED downlights in two of the track heads and they are holding their own so far. Here's a pic of two different groups along the east wall. Don't call the design police - I know they don't all match!









An interesting point for anyone planning a new shop build, make sure your shop interior reflects as much light as possible. I painted all the framing as I built thinking it would help protect the wood while I worked alone at snail's pace. I'm not sure that I did much for protection but a second coat when I painted all the inside of the sheathing yielded a bright interior. I also bought OSB roof sheathing with a foil face for only $1 per sheet extra. I installed the sheathing shiny side down so my look from inside is: REFLECTIVE ceiling and white walls. 









I put a layer of double bubble foil over the roof decking and installed galvalume metal on 1-1/2" stripping (air space required for radiant barrier). Yes, there are three reflective surfaces between me and the overhead sun. I have exposed stud wall cavities 5-1/2" deep and no interior insulation and yet I keep the shop comfortable with one 8000 btu air conditioner in the Louisiana heat. It worked out better than anticipated.

In summary, put the most light in the middle of the shop where you'll need it for setting up machinery. In doorways and in storage areas have adequate light to find things but you will not need enough light to discern 64ths of an inch here. Have task lighting to boost the light in areas where you might work for a limited time and lastly, have a good old fashioned pole lamp that can easily be moved to help in any area. Most people have thrown away one or two of these.









I spent around $500 total in fixtures and bulbs. I have not needed more light than I have and therein is gratification for the scheming.

Be creative about how you get light to where you need it. Adjacent to the shop I have a carport for my small camper. I lowered the lighting from the tall structure by bending some emt conduit and strapping it in place with u-bolts, getting the light much closer to where it is needed. This is not unlike what I did in the tallest part of the shop where I used plastic pipe to lower fixtures.


















Now back to #2 again.
Watch out - there's a product safety recall in effect for a number of different models of fluorescent fixtures. 18"-48" Fixtures manufactured for Cooper Lighting are effected and the plastic ends MAY melt and catch fire if the bulbs are not seated properly. Sold through Ace Hardware, Lowe's, Menards, Mills Fleet Farm, True Value and other retail stores nationwide from July 2011 through April 2015 for between $13 and $67. Check out the CPSC posting here: 
http://www.cpsc.gov/en/Recalls/2015/Cooper-Lighting-Recalls-Fluorescent-Lighting-Fixtures/

One part of the lighting scheme in my workshop uses 2-bulb 4 ft fluorescent fixture. These were fairly inexpensive with "residential" ballasts. After the first one survived my carport over a damp winter and spring, I bought more to use in the shop. Now, it seems, I'll have them replaced.


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## EMWW (Nov 25, 2015)

curliejones said:


> *Shop lighting - alternatives and Safety Recall that probably affects some Lumberjocks*
> 
> 
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The shop is coming along nicely. I know what you mean about bright walls and roof being helpful. I have rough sawn pine for my whole interior so I need a lot of lights.


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## curliejones (Mar 12, 2012)

*Building a lumber rack*














































I'm big into re- or up- cycling and some of the materials on hand are getting their 3rd or 4th use. There is a point, though, where storing the old material is more headache than it is worth. 
I built a drop shed long before building the new workshop and now I must organize that drop shed to accommodate firewood, building materials, barbeque grills, etc that were housed under the old boat and firewood shed.

I've seen folks build lumber racks using 3/4" conduit stuck into holes on 2×4s and decided that would be easier than ripping wood into sticks to support lumber. The shed getting this lumber rack is only about 5 years old and is merely a shed roof on posts spaced 10 ft apart. Adding a lumber rack to the south wall will require much more substantial framing than just a wall to support sheet metal so it's back to the ground.

I decided to put two posts in between two of the ten ft spans so the rack is supported to ground every 5 ft and I will use 15 ft of the available 20ft keeping the lumber rack 5 ft away from an open end of the shed. I put in 4×4s (from the old workshop) horizontally in this 5 ft span and then placed a 4×4 atop that giving a vertical support approximately every 2.5 ft. The 2×4s were drilled and then screwed to the 4×4 and 4×6 posts (original shed framing). When the drilled 2×4s are screwed onto the framing, be sure to use a string line for level and to keep the 2×4s all in the same face plane.

The 3/4" conduit can be cut by any method you choose but I wanted to keep the ends uniform and the raged edges to a minimum so I used a tubing cutter which pushed the burr from cutting inward. A couple of tips here: Use rubber gloves to get a good grip on the pipe when cutting, wrap the pipe in a second rubber glove to increase the diameter and make the pipe fit the hand better, and use a spritz of WD-40 to lubricate the cut once you start a groove with the tubing cutter. Have a box hand for the cut pipe to fall into. With std lengths at 10 ft, eight pieces at 15" each works out well. I cut 42 pieces to have six different supports per vertical member times the 7 members.

I used my drill press table and shimmed on side to create a slight angle so the pipes holding the load would end up slightly inclined upward. Since there would be lots of waste coming from 7 2×4s each with six holes I clamped a shop vac hose to the drill press table next to the point of entry on the 2×4s. My 2×4s are 5 ft long and I drilled the holes 2-3/4" deep, leaving 12-1/4" sticking out to support the load. A 15/16" spade bit was a perfect fit for the conduit.

Since the rack is located outdoors, I wanted to plug the outboard end of the conduit to keep insects from nest there. I bought a 7/8" dowel and rolled both ends to created a taper about 7/8" long. I cut the two ends off at 7/8" and used a wooden mallet to drive them into the conduit. One word of caution here: I had a burr created on the inside of the conduit from using a tubing cutter. This burr had to be removed with a round file on each pipe, but only on the end receiving the plug. With the burr left in place, the metal cut the wood and once past that burr the plug was then smaller than the inside diameter of the pipe. I spray painted the plugs after passing the assembled pipe/plug over the belt sander to smooth the edges, hoping to discourage any boring insects.

I had the framing material on hand, left from other uses so I only had to buy 5 sticks of conduit, a $25 purchase.
Though this rack should easily accommodate a couple of tons of material, I'm hoping that it doesn't fill up too fast and gives me a short-term spot to store material brought in for projects.


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## gargey (Apr 11, 2016)

curliejones said:


> *Building a lumber rack*
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k


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