# Jointing with a hand plane- what to buy?



## nadavpev (Mar 11, 2017)

Hi,
I'm looking in to buying a plane for wood jointing. I'm talking about medium-small stuff- my intention is to cut rough stock on the bandsaw to as-close-as-possible dimensions and then plane out any twist, bow or cupping that has occured either while the wood was drying or when tension were released during the cut. I think that the maximum length will be around 5 feet, really nothing more and even that would be quite rarely.
This is aimed both to replace a big, loud and quite expensive jointer that would take up space in my small workshop, and also just for the fun of hand planing.
I have about 500$ to invest. After consulting with some friends I'd really like to have a premiun plane- veritas or lie-nielsen, even if it's not the most budget-smart decision. I'm not so much into restoring an old one, call me lazy 
The current options I have in mind are:
BD jack(prob. 5 1/2) 
BU jack with a couple of blade
No. 7 jointer 
No. 7 BU jointer with a 25 and a 38 blade

On one hand a jack is cheaper and more versatile, but I always fear that versatility has a cost in terms of quality- and I really just need it for one job. On the other hand from watching videos and doing some reading I fear that a jointer plane is not really suitable for starting out with a rough board and there needs to be some work done with a more aggressive plane before using a jointer.
BTW I'm well aware of both the learning curve and the need for sharpening equipment and have that in mind.

I'd really like to hear what you guys think
Thanks!


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

IMHO, having a single plane with the sole purpose of jointing rough stock, a jack plane would be my choice without question. If it were me, I'd go with BD with 2 irons - one for heavier cuts (scrubbing) sharpened with a bit of camber and a second one without camber for final jointing. A #7 is great for flattening large stock but with the size stock you're working with, it's overkill and will require more work because the long sole makes it pretty much useless for working stock efficiently unless it's pretty near flat to begin with.

All of my planes are vintage that I've refurbished but, if I were only going to own a single plane, it would be Veritas or LN. I think of those 2 lines, I'd go with the LN 5-1/2 for your purposes.

Good luck and welcome to the site!


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## HickWillis (Aug 5, 2016)

> IMHO, having a single plane with the sole purpose of jointing rough stock, a jack plane would be my choice without question. If it were me, I d go with BD with 2 irons - one for heavier cuts (scrubbing) sharpened with a bit of camber and a second one without camber for final jointing. A #7 is great for flattening large stock but with the size stock you re working with, it s overkill and will require more work because the long sole makes it pretty much useless for working stock efficiently unless it s pretty near flat to begin with.
> 
> All of my planes are vintage that I ve refurbished but, if I were only going to own a single plane, it would be Veritas or LN. I think of those 2 lines, I d go with the LN 5-1/2 for your purposes.
> 
> ...


I agree with everything said here - go with the LN 5 1/2. It is a fantastic plane and will suit your needs well. Definitely do not worry about the quality of handplanes coming from LN and Veritas.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

I own a LN 5-1/2 jack. It's a darned good all-arounder, and I've jointed 2 foot long pieces with it, and am now smoothing a new 3"x21"x66" elm bench-top with it. I only have one iron, but basically proceeded as Kenny said without switching blades. It's a very nice plane. There's no quality sacrifice I can see for the versatility of the jack, and it came ready to make shavings from LN. I did end up buying a #2 for smoothing little stuff, but I almost always reach for the jack first.


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## OSU55 (Dec 14, 2012)

You should re-evaluate your plan. On one hand you say you only want to joint, then you say you want to flatten rough stock surfaces. Are you going to use a loud, annoying sander to smooth up the flat surfaces? These are very different jobs that are best done with different planes - that's why there are different sized bench planes. Here's a reasonable description of the what and why for bench planes.

Paul Sellers has a lot of great info on bench planes - here's one article to get you started. He has loads of info online. For only one plane, he would recommend a Bailey design #4. Your lazy and don't want to refurb planes (but you want to hand joint and plane wood?). There are several on LJ's who do that and sell them at reasonable prices. I recommend you do some more research and get a refurbed plane or 2 and see where you go from there. Just for grins, here's a series on tuning planes. Even the high end one's can use some after a while.


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## Sawdust2012 (Sep 17, 2013)

You'll never regret a LN or Veritas. A low angle bevel up jack plane gives you a lot of options. One option that could be less expensive is a sweetheart 5 1/4 jack plane. I have one i bought on eBay, and I use it far more often than my Millers Falls jointer. The 5 1/4 is also called a "junior jack". It's a little less wide than the 5 1/2, and sweetheart era Stanleys are a joy to use. You'll have to do some cleaning and sharpening, and maybe flattening of the sole, but you'll have a fantastic multi purpose plane.


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## nadavpev (Mar 11, 2017)

Thanks everybody for the informative answers!


> You should re-evaluate your plan. On one hand you say you only want to joint, then you say you want to flatten rough stock surfaces. Are you going to use a loud, annoying sander to smooth up the flat surfaces?
> - OSU55


As english is not my native language, I might not use the right words for some things… I understand the difference between jointing twisted stock and planing saw marks.
I don't care to use an electric sander (I have a random orbital one), and do not seek a planer because of some hand-working ideology. It's mere fun.



> Your lazy and don't want to refurb planes (but you want to hand joint and plane wood?)
> - OSU55


I was joking when I said it's laziness, going back to what I wrote above- it's just in terms of fun. I enjoy the process of handplaning, I don't enjoy heavy restoration of old planes. To me theres a big difference between that and regular maintenance. 
Thanks!


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## bonesbr549 (Jan 1, 2010)

I used to do all my rough to final with hand planes. I learned from Rob Cosmon's rough to ready. I used a LN scrub plane to get it close and a LN #7 to finish it off.

Sweet planes and worked like a charm. I would recommend those to anyone. I have a 12" jointer now, sending my scrub and #7 to my son.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

What HokieKen ^ said about blades, except I would go with a #6 instead of a jack. All around, I find a 6 is probably the most versatile plane. I also use it for shooting.

This will get you better jointing capabilities. It is a bit longer than a 5 1/2 but about the same cost.

Unless your definitely sold on a premium plane, I suggest take a look at the WoodRiver planes. I have several of them + LN's and IMO they are quite up to par with a LN. Yes, they are made in China and that turns off a lot of guys, but I got over that after trying one out.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

I'm not a fan of any bench plane without a chipbreaker (BU).

While I have almost a full line of LNs. If you want to get the most out of 500$ I'd go vintage. Lots of reputable people on here buying selling & trading.

If you don't mind then waiting you can't go wrong with LN. They are fantastic. They have a very high resale value if you ever decide you don't want them. Veritas not so much but still a great plane.


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

For pieces 5ft and less, a 5-1/2 or 6 will work fine for jointing. I find that those sizes are a nice combination of size and weight to use for extended periods when working panels or flattening stock, while still giving enough sole length to be able to joint a straight edge. I use a #6 size for almost all my jointing and it works great. My 5-1/2's are set up for rough work and panel flattening with cambered irons, but I would have no issue using one of them as a jointer with iron sharpened more appropriately for that task.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

A lot of folks come to the conclusion that cleaning up old planes is even more fun than woodworking. 

-Paul


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## OSU55 (Dec 14, 2012)

Since its mere fun, either a Veritas BULA jack, Veritas custom 5-1/2, or Veritas #6 fore. They resale as well as LN in my experience. Either make is about as good as can be found.


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## Allegrus (Dec 20, 2016)

I think there needs to be some expansion of some of the answers given here: Two blades on a plane (take a #6 for example) will not be sufficient for you to go from rough lumber to a finished board or cover the situations you will encounter; at least not effectively or efficiently. I took the same route as OP did with a LV Bu Jack plane. I had 4 blades ready at all times with different profiles:

1. A no-camber blade for jointing
2. A high camber blade for rough stock removal
3. A slightly cambered, low angle blade for smoothing
4. A slightly cambered, high angle blade for smoothing highly figured wood

I don't see how you can get away with fewer blades unless you want to compromise/complicate your workflow or limit your wood selections. The workflow with 4 blades to swap between is somewhat practical on a BU configuration; on a BD configuration, would be just annoying because of the addition of a chipbreaker.


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## BigYin (Oct 14, 2011)

there are several guys on this site who resore and sell planes, buy from them.
a stanley or record no.7 or no.6 with 2 blades one cambered for scrubbing down rough wood and one for jointing
and as jointing and smoothing are different subjects a no.4 or no.4-1/2 for smoothing


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

I just change planes..









#7c, #6c, #5-1/2, # 5 c, #5, and a #5-1/4. Along with a few #3s and #4 sized smoothers. Stanleys, and Millers Falls. Oh, and a few block planes thrown in, as well. 
The #5c has a cambered iron, the other #5 has no camber.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

This is why I don't use BU but for end grain.


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## BigYin (Oct 14, 2011)

just looked on ebay usa and found
a Winchester W6 plane for $80 (made by Stanley for Win') 
several stanley 6's for $50-100
several stanley 7's from $80 all + shipping
there are alot of decent condition or restored planes out there


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

If getting only one plane, I'd suggest a #6, bevel
down. The chipbreaker enhances range
of function and adjustment is easier.

I have low angle jointer and while it does
a good job, the void in front of the moving
shoe persistently clogs with shavings when
the throat is closed.

Of course an old jack can be got for $50
or so and then perhaps a second plane would
be a #7 or #4.


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

> If getting only one plane, I d suggest a #6, bevel
> down. The chipbreaker enhances range
> of function and adjustment is easier.
> 
> ...


YES do as above, HOWEVER, add a thicker blade and chipper. That will tone down the chatter and make an old plane feel new (I am thinking HOCK, but there or others out there).


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## nadavpev (Mar 11, 2017)

Wow that's some great info!
I'm thinking about getting a premium plane (still figuring out which one) and not too long from now, after experimenting and figuring things out, I'll buy some other used planes. If I won't like the plane I'll just sell it, I can really handle loosing a few bucks.
So maybe you'll help me look at it at a different perspective: Buying one plane to get through my current project: milling rough 2" boards to some ~1 3/4 square stock (some 30" long pieces, some 20"...), one that will be useful also in other projects and could hold up being an only child for some time, And then adding more restored planes "around" it. Let's leave aside premium/restored etc. for now and focus on type (unless of course it makes a big difference feature and ability wise)

Looking forward to hear from you and thank you very much for all the informative answers!


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Get a #5 jack plane for now….


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

Lot of good thoughts. As you can see, there are several ways to skin a cat. I stand by the advice in my first post though. Only one plane has to be a jack for me. 5 or 5-1/2. I wouldn't have a low angle as my only plane personally.


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## corelz125 (Sep 23, 2015)

check out donw has a defiance #3 and a bailey 6 for sale.


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## nadavpev (Mar 11, 2017)

I'd like to hear what you think about this option:
It's very convenient for me to purchase from the uk in terms of shipping costs. I know axminster as a good, reliable store and brand from woodturning.
for £441.27- about 550$ I can walk out with the axminster rider no. 7 jointer, axminster rider no. 6 fore, veritas mk.ii honing guide, their sharpening station kit, a mortise gouge, a veritas dovetail saw (which I've read works quite well for tenons too). Later on I'll buy a nice LN smoothing plane and could be quite satisfied with my set (until then I'll just use my sander). As I've read, it seems like the plane which is the wisest to buy premium is a smoothing plane. The axminster planes get quite good reviews and seem pretty equivalent to woodriver etc. at sometimes even a lower price.
What do you say?


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## corelz125 (Sep 23, 2015)

New thread up now about rider planes http://lumberjocks.com/topics/210522


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Sounds like a plan..


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

I can't speak to the quality of axminster planes other than they appear well made in photos I've seen.

I think it's a mistake to make your first 2 planes a 6 and 7. Scrubbing rough stock is going to take forever with nothing shorter than 18" and would wear me out. Those planes don't seem heavy… until you use them for 30 minutes straight. I'll say it again, IMHO a jack plane is the best choice. I would suggest picking a 4 or 5 plus either a 6 or 7 if you're going to buy two.

Just my $.02. It's your money so take it with a grain of salt! I really think you'll find a 6 and a 7 kinda redundant if they are your only 2 planes though. As far as the other tools, the veritas honing guide is a bit pricey but worth the money if you need a guide, like I do. I don't own any of the others but know they're all regarded as excellent tools.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

You should check out eBay.uk then

They have a ridiculous amount of great vintage tools go through there.


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## OSU55 (Dec 14, 2012)

Since you finally mentioned you want to source out of the UK (would help if people would say where they are from or put it on their profile) Agree ebay.uk is where you need to be looking. Seen some nice Records and Stanleys on there. Look at Workshop Heaven. The Quangsheng planes I think are about like Woodcraft Woodriver.


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## nadavpev (Mar 11, 2017)

> Since you finally mentioned you want to source out of the UK (would help if people would say where they are from or put it on their profile) Agree ebay.uk is where you need to be looking. Seen some nice Records and Stanleys on there. Look at Workshop Heaven. The Quangsheng planes I think are about like Woodcraft Woodriver.
> 
> - OSU55


Thank you, it isn't so important if it's from the uk but since it's closer the shipping rates are usually cheaper, not by much…
I tend not to say where I live if not necessary because I live in Israel and people tend not to be able to separate life from politics, which I hope won't be the case here 
once again- thank you very much!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

I'd suggest more separation in planes, such as a 5 and 7 vs. the 6 and 7. For the rough work you're wanting to perform, the heft of a 6 (and even 5 1/2) will be exhausting rather quickly, and with little direct benefit if any. Then flatten with the 7, a large plane but most of the heavy work will be done.


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## BigYin (Oct 14, 2011)

if your going to try British ebay, as well as stanley planes, look for Woden Record Clifton & Marples planes


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

Record made some good stuff. Should be easy to find in great condition.


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## revrok (May 1, 2014)

I would take a different approach… I would buy a high end smoother(#4 or 4 1/2) and two fully restored and tuned older Bailey or Bedrock planes to get your jointing done (as mentioned there are guys on here who would do that). The perfect sole and blades on a new smoother would do a lot of your smaller piece jointing very well and a well tuned #5 Jack (with a cambered and a straight blade) and #7 would take care of the longer boards as well as rough work. If you wanted these to have premium blades you could add a PMV11 or Hock setup (blade and chipbreaker). I can't think of any situation this combo wouldn't handle in roughing, jointing, sizing and smoothing. You could even get multiple frog angles on a Veritas custom Smoother to handle end grain beautifully. You would come in at/under budget and have a very versatile setup with no regrets.


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## JRsgarage (Jan 2, 2017)

kinda seems redundant to go with 6 and 7, especially if you don't plan to use long pieces. i started with #3, #5 and a decent block plane. can add and additional #5 or #4 to convert into a scrub…probably all you'll need


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## Framarootexploits (Mar 26, 2017)

Thanks for this, and it was really helpful and worth reading.


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

I'm late to the party.

Do you have a smoothing plane? 3, 4, or 4 1/2?

I would say you need a smoother , Scrub and a jointer (7 or 8) for working rough stock to finished stock.

Scrub could be one of several planes with an aggressive camber. Some scrub options include the Stanley 40 or 40 1/2, Stanley 5, or Transitional Jack such as a Stanley #26 or #27.

Planes are like potato chips you just cannot have one.


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