# Minwax Wipe-On Poly



## billyKar (Jun 7, 2015)

Can anyone advise whether this product would be ok to use on a wooden kitchen benchtop. I can't find information anywhere on whether this would be a good or bad decision. I have a 936ml tin that my son used on a guitar that he made and I love the finish, but just not sure whether it is suitable for the wear and tear of a kitchen top and also whether it would be waterproof.


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## cdaniels (Apr 16, 2014)

what is the bench top used for? if it's for food prep or something you would set food on than no


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

A wipe on oil based varnish is the same as a brush on formula, the difference being a lot more thinner is added for the wiping qualities. 3 coats of a wipe on is usually considered the equal of one coat of brushed in terms of film build. So, it has the qualities of an oil based varnish which make it fairly durable. Wear and tear? Any oil polyurethane is resistant to scratches, that's urethane's main strength. Waterproof? You can wash it off and wipe up spills. You wouldn't want to put it out side or in the dishwasher.


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## Wildwood (Jul 22, 2012)

Minwax Wipe-On Poly consists of 70% solvent/thinner check content label or MSDS/SDS. Wipe on poly/varnish (resin) should never contain more than 60% solvent/thinner. I am not a big fan of Minwax product but see link for different opinion. Agree with Fred some!

http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Water_Resistance_of_WipeOn.html


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

> Minwax Wipe-On Poly consists of 70% solvent/thinner check content label or MSDS/SDS. Wipe on poly/varnish (resin) should never contain more than 60% solvent/thinner.


What are you basing the 'never more than 60% solvent' claim on? Obviously not minwax 

Poly works just fine for counter tops. Just build up a sufficient thickness - probably something like 6 coats minimum. It dries to the touch pretty quick (30-60 minutes typically), so lay down a coat, wait for it to dry to the touch, lay down another, and repeat - do 3 or 4 coats then let dry overnight. The next day, hit it with a very light 220 sanding to remove any dust nibs and do it again. Keep at it until satisfied you have enough build up. As long as you don't leave standing water on it for an extended period of time, it should hold up to cleaning and moisture just fine. And once it's cured, it's perfectly food safe, so that shouldn't be a concern.

Cheers,
Brad


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

> what is the bench top used for? if it s for food prep or something you would set food on than no
> 
> - cdaniels


 Once poly is cured it's safe to set food on.


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## cdaniels (Apr 16, 2014)

alaska- true but still not technically a food safe finish. I was just trying to be mindful of the application. if you're looking for a food safe finish I prefer to use shellac finished with a beeswax coat but that's just one guy's idea


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

> alaska- true but still not technically a food safe finish. I was just trying to be mindful of the application. if you re looking for a food safe finish I prefer to use shellac finished with a beeswax coat but that s just one guy s idea
> 
> - cdaniels


Technically you may be right. My idea is "practically and common sense" went away with political correctness. I'm sure if varnish was harmful to eat the EPA would have made it vanish along with lead paint.


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## billyKar (Jun 7, 2015)

Would you suggest rubbing the old varnish off totally before applying this, or, would it be ok if some of the old varnish remains. So….can the Minwax wipe-on poly be applied over old varnish if its been smoothed back with a 240 grit sand paper?


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

I have never been happy with any Minwax product. I have probably purchased 100+ cans of minwax stain, poly etc. 
Poly will work fine in your application, but think about Deft, Rudd, or any other brand.


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## billyKar (Jun 7, 2015)

The top won't be used for food prep as I always use a separate chopping board for that.


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

> I have never been happy with any Minwax product. I have probably purchased 100+ cans of minwax stain, poly etc.
> Poly will work fine in your application, but think about Deft, Rudd, or any other brand.
> 
> - pintodeluxe


I check out your gallery and you do nice work. I have to ask why you bought a hundred cans of product you don't like?


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## Wildwood (Jul 22, 2012)

I don't mean to talk and won't mention any names but you know who!

General rule of thumb two coats of wipe on poly/varnish should equal one coat of oil film finish. That is based upon a fifty-fifty mix of resin to solvent mix.

When go to section 2 MSDS for Minwax *************** find by weight 70% Med. Aliphatic Hydrocarbon Solvent know going to take more coats to build up a finish.

Don't take my word on that check out product MSDS ! 
http://www.minwax.com/document/MSDS/en/027426609105
http://www.minwax.com/document/MSDS/en/027426609006

People that make their own might start with a 50/50 mix but switch to more resin than solvent for final coat(s).

Rule of thumb thingy changes on open grain wood verus closed grain!


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

> Would you suggest rubbing the old varnish off totally before applying this, or, would it be ok if some of the old varnish remains. So….can the Minwax wipe-on poly be applied over old varnish if its been smoothed back with a 240 grit sand paper?
> 
> - billyKar


This will probably work, though it's now sounding like you're re-finishing an item. Here's the thing, the biggest drawback to poly-anything is that the urethane resins inhibit adhesion. That's why with oil based poly's you need to scuff sand between coats. There's no reason to suspect it won't stick to what's there….unless it has some silicon on it. That's an ingredient in most furniture polishes and can make you piece look like chit is you try to varnish over it. So, if you are refinishing, the surface must be thoroughly cleaned, typically this would be with MS. If you really want to insure adhesion, clean it, put on a coat of dewaxed shellac (Zinnser Seal Coat is one) then put your Min wax over it…that will practically guarantee adhesion (don't scuff sand the shellac except to smooth.


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