# Review of Powertec T-Tracks - Save 50% over Rockler T-Tracks



## Peteybadboy

thanks for posting


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## NewbieDan

You're welcome!


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## diverlloyd

So where is the review? You found cheaper tracks and like them is that the review? What size are they, what the thickness,how are they packed,what do they come with? That would be good info for a review this is more of a come to my YouTube channel then a review. You should have taken the time to write a real review as you did making a video.


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## NewbieDan

diverlloyd - I changed the review to be more informative. I'm new here, and didn't realize that just pointing to a video isn't acceptable. Thanks for pointing that out.


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## ssnvet

I agree that #6 screws are not the way to go when mounting T-Track.

The Rockler T-track is not painted, rather it is anodized. If the Powertec is actually painted, then I wouldn't be interested, as metal to metal wear and tear will eventually chip any painted surfaces.

FWIW, the T-track at Peach Tree Woodworking is usually a good deal.


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## NewbieDan

The Powertec is anodized, according to their website. I'm afraid I don't really know the difference, personally.


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## ScottM

Orange Aluminum also has pretty good prices on T-Track as well. Looks like the dimensions are a little different though.


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## Redoak49

In general, there are two different type of the t track. The 3/8" tall and the 1/2 tall. The 1/2" tall one seems to be significantly stronger.

One should look up anodized. In general, the anodized surface is an electrolytic passivation of the surface and form a thicker oxide layer. It is much better than a painted layer.


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## NewbieDan

> It is much better than a painted layer.
> 
> - Redoak49


Yeah, I kinda figured that from the way people talked about it.  Thanks for the info!


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## jeffski1

Thanks for the review.


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## ssnvet

If you get into the exact geometry and descriptions you'll see that:

some of the 3/8" t-track has thick walls and narrow slots and only works with the thin special T-nuts (thin flanges and 5/16" threaded studs)

some for the 3/8" t-track has thin walls and a wide slot, so it can work with standard 1/4-20 nuts or bolt heads.

The 1/2" t-track is thick walled and works with 3/8-18 nuts. This is a lot stiffer, but required thicker stock.

I used to think it was important to be able to use standard nuts, but over the years I've accumulated a drawer full of "jig hardware" and I prefer using the special T-nuts (sold by Rockler and others). I stick with the 3/8" thick t-track and try to keep a 4' section on hand.


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## dday

Got some on order-with some nuts and star knobs.. and a couple of clearance saw blades while I was at it.
Thanks for the review.


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## NewbieDan

Cool! Glad to help.


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## Desert_Woodworker

I enjoy your postings- the quality and content are very good.


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## NewbieDan

Desert_Woodworker: Thanks! I appreciate it very much.


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## diverlloyd

Dan that's a lot better review. I figure we are on this website and shouldn't need to go to another for a review.


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## NewbieDan

> Dan that s a lot better review. I figure we are on this website and shouldn t need to go to another for a review.
> 
> - diverlloyd


Totally understand. I actually like the idea of having the written review, and you can always go to the video if something's not clear. So, thanks!


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## BigMig

Dan, thanks for the review. I found it informative and I don't feel that I need to see the video review. As a Rockler T track user, I'm very willing to try this brand - despecially with teh prospect of using better screws.

Thanks again for informing the community.


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## NewbieDan

Mike - You're right, you probably don't need to see the video. And thanks!


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## Fallon

Anodizing is aluminum oxide, often with a bit of dye in it. Unlike iron rust, aluminum oxide is harder than aluminum & volumetrically the same (iron oxide is larger than iron, causing it to spall & flake off). Aluminum oxide is used as an abrasive in sanding & grinding, its also the primary component in ruby & sapphire (what they make bearings & scratch proof lenses for in expensive watches).

Aluminum oxidizes nearly instantly when exposed to air. Anodizing just uses electricity & acid to push the oxidation deeper into the aluminum for a thicker harder finish. There are different types of anodizing, some harder than others.

In short anodizing is generally better than paint for protection & durability. Although you really can't repair it like paint.


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## therealSteveN

Well written piece, thanks for that. Price wise you may want to throw that Orange A1 in, prices remind me of Rockler back when, if it's good quality it would be a winner. Below are some T Track thoughts.

Wow I haven't bought any T track for a bunch of years, looks like it's getting expensive. I followed the thread and typed in Powertec T Track, and one of the links was to the company so I took that, Anymore I get annoyed at all the really bad ads on Amazon, their product descriptions suc in a poorly written with no product knowledge kind of way. It leaves me wondering if Amazon charges a company a lot to use their own ink?

Anyhow back to the point I went down this trail on the site Jeesh 12.99 and thats less than Rockler? Last I bought from Rockler it was in a tube with 4, 4' rails, and a bunch of connectors, and knobs, accessory items for T Track use. Each tube was $12.99

Closest thing I saw at Rockler was this 61 bux for one piece of what ya need T Track, and a lot of whoooey. They are so proud of those bench gookies. I still have a box with about 100 used once, Hockey pucks I bought long ago a nickle apiece. Putting stuff on top of a Hockey puck, anyone have an idea how long till they wear out? I'm thinking infinity + 1000 years.

Not sure where they are now, but Peachtree used to bring their HD T Track out to "Thee Woodworking Shows" for small money, of course it's been some years since I was a collector, but they had some HD that was split track, half T and next to it a miter track. One thing for sure a fence riding jig for a router table can run off if you don't have the fence perfect, but a rail riding jig based off a miter gauge is always the exact same distance away from the bit, cause neither the bits placement, or the miter track are moving. That stuff made the Rockler look like aluminum foil. They also had straight rails for 1/2 depth, or 3/8" in the HD stuff. Well placed and you could actually use those T Track based pliers, and clamps to bear down on something without risk of the track pulling out, or twisting up.


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## NewbieDan

Thanks for the trip down memory lane! 

I remember being able to play pinball games for a nickel, so I guess times really have changed!


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## bruc101

Thanks for the review. I need some new t tracks and will definitely head to Amazon to get them.


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## curliejones

- as Mainiac Matt sez, I bought a stick from Amazon and asked about their source. They assure me that Powertec supplies the inventory to them. I tried and 1/4-20 hex head bolts spin in Powertec t-track. I am invested in 1/4-20 hex head bolts of varying lengths and want to use them, not start buying t-bolts.


> If you get into the exact geometry and descriptions you ll see that:
> 
> some of the 3/8" t-track has thick walls and narrow slots and only works with the thin special T-nuts (thin flanges and 5/16" threaded studs)
> 
> some for the 3/8" t-track has thin walls and a wide slot, so it can work with standard 1/4-20 nuts or bolt heads.
> 
> The 1/2" t-track is thick walled and works with 3/8-18 nuts. This is a lot stiffer, but required thicker stock.
> 
> I used to think it was important to be able to use standard nuts, but over the years I ve accumulated a drawer full of "jig hardware" and I prefer using the special T-nuts (sold by Rockler and others). I stick with the 3/8" thick t-track and try to keep a 4 section on hand.
> 
> - Mainiac Matt


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## curliejones

I did find a few 1/4-20 bolts that did not spin, but barely held. You could tell that the heads were thicker, but I did not measure how much. I had a couple 1/4-20 carraige bolts that I had flattened parallel sides and found you needed to use a 3/8" thick washer just outside the track to compensate for the square part of the shaft. It's a shame to need to start working on things instead of just using them, but if you have a supply of 1/4"-20 knobs and hex bolts, this t-track may not be for you. If you already have 5/16-18 (or plan to buy) knobs and t-bolts, this may work for you. This whole world of t-track reminds me of dust collection where there's no real standardization. They just put it all out there and have you figure out what matches up.


> - what Mainiac Matt said, I bought a stick from Amazon and asked about their source. They assure me that Powertec supplies the inventory to them. I tried and 1/4-20 hex head bolts spin in Powertec t-track.
> 
> - curliejones


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## curliejones

https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Bolts/US-Bolt-Head-Size.aspx
I did some more digging and found other brands of t-track saying to use "standard" 1/4-20 hex head bolts. I also found what I think is part of if not all of the problem. There seems to be no standard. The link above lists two wrench sizes possible for 1/4-20 hex bolts, therefore two head sizes are possible. I found the same chart with the same info on an engineering site and both list two wrench sizes 3/8" and 7/16", for hex head 1/4-20 bolts. I suppose better care needs to be taken by the consumer when buying "standard" hex bolts which don't seem to be standard at all and when ordering t-track. Some vendors post a drawing showing ALL dimensions; some do not. Regarding the hex bolt wrench sizes, I tried to find whether the 3/8" wrench size was for a certain specialty bolt, but found no information to support that. Perhaps the 3/8" wrench size is less common, but I simply do not know.


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