# How to fix this chair leg?



## Elizabeth (Oct 17, 2009)

I have a busted chair leg:





































What's the best way to re-seat the…I don't even know what that threaded piece is called. Should I try to take it out, fix the cracks, then screw/glue it back in place? Or should I try to screw it back in now and then reinforce the whole piece?


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## Elizabeth (Oct 17, 2009)

Yeah, there's no slot in this one, and it's completely threaded so I don't think an allen will do it either (though I can't see the bottom, will check it with a flashlight. What if I cut a slot at the top with a dremel tool, would that work or would it risk messing up the inner threads?


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

That metal piece is called a thread insert. It has a coarse external thread to cut threads into the wood, while the internal thread of the insert has a machine thread, usually 1/4"-20 threads per inch. That break is pretty bad, but depending on your skill and tools available, I would saw down on the diagonal from left to right as shown in the 2nd picture and deep enough to remove all broken wood, including the inserts. After making sure the remaining wood is sound and smooth, cut a piece of the same type wood and fit it as a patch, using an epoxy. Clamp and leave for at least 24 hours. After the epoxy has cured, smooth out the new wood to match the existing leg, refinish, drill new holes for inserts. Drill the holes deep enough so the 1/4-20 screw doesn't bottom out. That's what probably caused it to crack in thefirst place. Good luck.


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## JohnnyM (Jan 6, 2012)

I'll second MrRon's advice. I've found that trying to get the cracked pieces to reseat and align and not look like a mess takes longer than just cutting off the cracks and gluing some new material on there. Also, being that it is on the top inside of the leg, if the color match is not exactly perfect it will not be that visible.


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## Elizabeth (Oct 17, 2009)

Thanks guys. I've fashioned a driving tool and got the first insert out…second one doesn't want to budge yet, though. And have to figure out what the best matching wood will be.


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## dkirtley (Mar 11, 2010)

I would go with a thickened epoxy if you are going to keep the original wood. Something with a glass microfiber reinforcement maybe. Do not tighten clamps much when using epoxy. It will not be as strong, Looks like the wood is all there and should make for a low visibility repair.


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## bobsmyuncle (Jan 12, 2011)

I've repaired a bunch of these. Remove the threaded insert, glue the leg back together, and drive the insert deeper into the unbroken part of the wood. Let it sit for 24 hours before using. Almost always the hole is deep enough and the bolt is long enough. If not, you know how to fix these. On bigger pieces like chair legs, I've driven a screw between the inserts to keep it together. This one is a little too small for that.


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## canadianchips (Mar 12, 2010)

Remove the inserts usint the bolt and nut method. I use just a plain white carpenters glue, use a tool to spread the cracked material apart a little (careful not to break it further) then pour the glue into the cracks, use a tooth pick to shove it in further if you need too, remove your pry tool, and clamp it over night.You might have to re drill pilot holes before you insert the inserts ! GOOD LUCK.


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## renners (Apr 9, 2010)

If you have a shop vac, you can suck white PVA glue down the whole length of the crack. 
Take out the inserts, squirt a good bit of glue into the cracks - as far as it will go, put your shop vac at the bottom of the crack and let the vacuum draw it through before cramping.


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## JJohnston (May 22, 2009)

I'd go a little farther with the repair. Remove the inserts and glue everything back together, per others' suggestions, then drill out the insert holes, kind of deep - beyond the break that goes perpendicular to the axis of the inserts - and somewhat oversized. Glue dowels into these holes, trim flush, then drill and reinstall the inserts. The dowels will help transfer forces across the repair.


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

Elizabeth, the slots in the threaded insert are not for a screw driver as most of us have always believed. I remember seeing a thread on LJ about 6 months or so ago and there is a tool that fits this and it is used only for installing the inserts. I don['t remember who the author was or what it was called but it was most interesting. I think you already have more advice on the repair than you can use so i will let you decide what to do about that.


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

Elizabeth, You won't be able to get the bottom insert out with the screw and two nuts method because when you try to turn the insert out (counterwise), the two nuts will loosen. Removing the wood as I suggested, will get rid of the insert. The insert can also be removed by using a screw extractor. It is a tapered, square cross section tool that you drive into the end and twist it out with a wrench.


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## Elizabeth (Oct 17, 2009)

Hah, I was just coming back to report that the screw/nuts method wasn't helping with the second insert. Thanks Ron, I'll try one of those methods. Will a screw extractor ruin the insert for reuse?


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

You might clean the threads up with a tap. I think it will be pretty rough then. Inserts are available to buy for not a lot of money. Check Rocklers or McFeely's or one of those places.


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## Dal300 (Aug 4, 2011)

Ah, Jeez… ya'll make it sound too tuff!
That's nuthin' a little baling wire, a bungy cord and some duct tape won't fix, although you might need a couple of 20 penny nails to bend over after you drive them through, just to tighten it up ya know!


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## Elizabeth (Oct 17, 2009)

Dallas, I must admit I am tempted to glue the cracks best as I can, drive some long wood screws through the whole thing, epoxy the one insert back into place and call it good!


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## rance (Sep 30, 2009)

JJohnson has a good idea with drilling it out to span the support across the joint.

Remove the inserts. Glue it back together. To get glue down deep inside the joint like that, scoop up glue in a straw. Then flatten the straw and insert it deep in the joint. Then use your fingers to force glue out the end, like a syringe. Then clamp it up.

With the clamps still in place, drill out for the inserts, but go over size and glue an oak or hickory dowel in place. When that dries, you might also criss cross some 1/8" oak dowels in place to further strengthen it. Try not to install these through the oversize dowel though.

Now drill out actual size for the insert. I'd keep the clamps in place while installing the insert though to keep it from cracking again.


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## bbjjj (Jan 7, 2012)

If you get up to Portland, Winks hardware has knife thread inserts that have a thinner, sharper, serrated outer thread and are installed using a hex wrench. Titebond III is the only glue I use and would recommend it for this application or any other wood bonding application, period. This looks to be a very simple repair.
After you remove the inserts try to clamp the leg back together. If some of the wood fibers prevent you from getting a nice tight fit you can remove some of them with a small pick or a thin blade of some sort. Once you get a nice tight fit then apply the glue generously and use something to force the glue into as much of the joint as possible. A short, stiff bristle paint brush works and I have even used compressed air. Clamp the joint and clean up any excess glue and let it completely dry. 
Make sure the new holes are clean for your inserts and install them.


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