# Saw Stop "No blade rotation code"



## DanielP (Mar 21, 2013)

Well, I was trimming and cutting some pine with my SS PCS175 when the blade stops mid cut and the green light is flashing.

According to manual this usually means thermal overload, so push in reset button wait a few minutes and restart. Okay, overheating didn't make sense because I wasn't putting any strain on the saw. I checked the belts, took off the blade and cartridge, put cartridge back in with new blade and proper spacing.

Turn power switch on, flip up paddle, blade starts moving with loud hum then stops. After another 15 minutes or so I reset and try again and same thing, motor hums blade moves for a couple seconds then stops.

Several tries over the next hour with same results.

Any SS owners out there experience this problem? If so what was your solution? Thanks


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## Kazooman (Jan 20, 2013)

Never had that happen. A few thoughts. Did you unplug the saw and let it sit for a bit and try again? Sometimes totally removing the power from printed circuit controlled devices makes them less stupid. While you have the plug out, have you tried turning the blade by hand (carefully!)? The original symptom and the subsequent humming and tripping really sounds like there is something bogging the motor down. If you find it hard to turn the blade by hand, you can remove the belts and try the arbor and motor separately to isolate the problem.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

Maybe a cap problem or start winding switch prob?


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## DanielP (Mar 21, 2013)

I switched the plugs and cords around I have two dedicated 20 amp lines and tried both. I will unplug it for a half hour or so and see if that works. Thanks.

Switch problem might be over my pay grade.


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## Kazooman (Jan 20, 2013)

Dan, do try rotating the blade with the saw unplugged. If it rotates freely, then I would bet Mike is on the right track. I thought about that for the new hum and trip symptom, but didn't see how that would have tripped the saw in mid-cut. I suppose the start switch could have stayed energized and caused an eventual overload.

It sounds like you will need to give Sawstop a call.

I just realized that my advice sounds like a call to the cable company help desk. You know the routine: "Unplug your modem, wait ten seconds, and plug it back in. Did that fix the problem?".


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## DanielP (Mar 21, 2013)

The blade does rotate easily so guess it will be a call to SS on Monday. Thanks for your help.


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## johnstoneb (Jun 14, 2012)

According to the manual for my conractor saw. fast blinking green is coasting down, and a slower blinking green is bypass mode on.


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## DanielP (Mar 21, 2013)

Green fast blink, Red Steady = No Blade Rotation page 45 in my PCS manual


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## daddywoofdawg (Feb 1, 2014)

Check for sawdust in or near any sensors,or moving parts, get in there and using your compressor blow every thing out.you said you where cutting pine that seems to clog more than most woods do.


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## johnstoneb (Jun 14, 2012)

Your initial post didn't say anything about the red. By chance has the motor come unplugged from the contactor lead at the motor.
Never mind I see in initial post motor hums. Might try unplugging at the motor and plugging back in.


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## DanielP (Mar 21, 2013)

The cords are wired directly into the motor so not much I can do there.

I blew out the inside and wiped dust off everything I could. Then I put on 8" box joint blades with appropriate brake and still got the hum and about a second of blade turn before it stopped.


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## JeffP (Aug 4, 2014)

Obviously with a saw stop, one is invited to think the problem is related to all of the additional electronics. I get that.

Still…at the end of the day the SS electronics is either sending 120V AC to the motor…or nothing at all.

If it is "humming", then the motor is getting juice from the SS electronics. I think it very unlikely the SS electronics would have any means to supply something other than either 0V, or 120V AC to the motor. The breaking in an SS is done purely by the sacrificial aluminum brake thing, not with any sort of fancy electronic breaking (which would be way too slow).

This makes me think that the SS electronics can be "simplified out of the equation" here.

If this was some other brand of saw, and the blade can be easily spun by hand and the motor "hums" when juice is applied…I think we would all be telling him a winding has gone bad inside the motor….right?


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## OggieOglethorpe (Aug 15, 2012)

The hum sounds like a start cap or motor issue, just like on any other machine. I've had this happen to a DJ20 and two spa pumps.

If it's not under warranty, Google "Electric Motor and your town name here". Motor shops are everywhere, electric motors are almost a commodity. There's a good chance someone local can repair or replace the motor at a very reasonable price.

FWIW, a local shop swapped me a new 2HP spa pump motor for my broken "core", for 25% of the spa dealer's replacement cost. Not 25% off, 75% less… ;^) The DJ20 needed an inexpensive capacitor replacement.


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## DanielP (Mar 21, 2013)

I bought the saw around a month ago so warranty is in effect. One thing is that the blade would never "spin freely" by hand. It turns easily but not in a free wheeling spin. I wondered about that when I first got it, but figured it was just the way it was. Also, I noticed that the arbor would heat up pretty good, quite warm to the touch.

Looks like I got one that was maybe built Friday afternoon in Taiwan. (


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

That seems to be the way a SS works (the free wheeling blade part), it moves easily but you can't spin it. So the blade not spinning freely doesn't indicate a problem. But I wouldn't do anything until you talk to SS, their CS is fantastic and you don't want to do anything that might be a reason to void your warranty.


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## OggieOglethorpe (Aug 15, 2012)

None of my belt driven saws, jointers, or even drill presses have spun freely by hand.

+1 on the warranty call. Let Customer Service be your guide, and let them fix it, as I'm sure they will.


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## OggieOglethorpe (Aug 15, 2012)

Resolution?


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## Clarkie (May 11, 2013)

Just a thought, have you checked the amperage draw direct from the motor. Dunno what size motor it is, but I usually have a dedicated 30 amp for my table saw, initial start may be higher than your 20 amp plug can handle.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

Maybe it needs a software update?


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## daddywoofdawg (Feb 1, 2014)

So why can they post codes and what they mean?,and how to troubleshoot the issue,I.E if you get this code it means this is wrong or reset that.If your going to computerize, that's the least they can do,it's not like it's a 200.00 machine! Or you can just toss it in a box and sent to a repair center.


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

> Just a thought, have you checked the amperage draw direct from the motor. Dunno what size motor it is, but I usually have a dedicated 30 amp for my table saw, initial start may be higher than your 20 amp plug can handle.
> 
> - Clarkie


It is a 1.75hp motor (single phase, 110 volts, 14 amps). I have the same saw … runs on a dedicated 20-amp circuit.


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## DanielP (Mar 21, 2013)

I called Monday morning. They Fed Ex'ed some replacement parts, start capacitor, run capacitor, actuator, and contact ring. I received them the next day. (I live 30 miles away).

Took probably an hour to replace everything and the saw worked fine once again. The contact point on the contact ring looked in bad shape with burning and build up weld.

One thing I noticed was sawdust in the motor. There were no gaskets on mine and the end cover looked like it was scavenged from a used motor. It was not a tight fit. These are just my observations, I am not an electrician or mechanic so take it at that.

The service was excellent.


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## nerdbot (Sep 3, 2014)

Out of curiosity, how old is your saw?


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## GordonBombay (Jul 21, 2015)

I had this exact same issue last week. Was your motor manufactured in or around 12/14? They are shipping me the same parts, which are supposed to arrive tomorrow. Hopefully that fixes the problem.

I too have been very happy with the service.


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## OggieOglethorpe (Aug 15, 2012)

Nice! Always nice to hear a happy conclusion.


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## DanielP (Mar 21, 2013)

Motor is stamped 2015, I don't see where the month is marked. I've had it for about 2 months so it's gotta be close to January.


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## MikeCo (Jan 15, 2017)

I'm new to the board and happy to find the information posted above as my SS appears to have the same problem. Motor is stamped 2014. Hopefully the parts are easy to replace.


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## DirtyMike (Dec 6, 2015)

sounds like A known problem that will never warrant a recall.


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## Vintagewood1960 (Jan 14, 2017)

I got that exact code and symptom when my PCS 31230 took a lightning strike. SS sent me a new sensor that detects arbor rotation. The installation kit had everything I needed to make the repair but it was a bit of a challenge. It would have been better if I was a 26 y.o. instead of 56 y.o. I learned a lesson and installed a whole house surge protection breaker. I also disconnect the saw when not in use. I'm posting this to let others know the importance of surge protection SS is more sensitive than your typical saw.


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## DanielP (Mar 21, 2013)

Since I see this subject back up, my saw had the same thing happen again. Service was excellent, they got me out a kit the same day and I got it the next day.

Since it looks to be a chronic problem I'm thinking about buying an extra kit to have on hand for the next time. They're not expensive and I won't be out of service for a day and a half when it happens again..


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

Dan, probably not a bad idea….do you have the part number for the kit?


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## DanielP (Mar 21, 2013)

> Dan, probably not a bad idea….do you have the part number for the kit?
> 
> - Fred Hargis


The repair kit that I received, both times, included; Centrifugal Switch for PCS1.75 Motor 14A $15.00

Start Capacitor for SY/TC PCS/CNS 1.75 Motor 14A $5.20

Run Capacitor for SY PCS/CNS 14A $15.85

Looks like they have separated out the capacitors and no longer use a kit part number. I'm guessing it is the centrifugal switch that is most needed but not sure. Perhaps someone has better idea?


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## MikeCo (Jan 15, 2017)

Well, I feel like a dummy. I didn't think it could have been the thermal overload breaker as the saw stopped before touching any wood and had only been running a few seconds. I called SS support and they had me reset the breaker and the saw seems to be fine.



> Since I see this subject back up, my saw had the same thing happen again. Service was excellent, they got me out a kit the same day and I got it the next day.
> 
> Since it looks to be a chronic problem I m thinking about buying an extra kit to have on hand for the next time. They re not expensive and I won t be out of service for a day and a half when it happens again..
> 
> - DanielP


Dan how difficult was it to replace these parts? Did they come with any type of documentation? I am planning on ordering the parts as well.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Having to replace the centrifugal switch and capacitors in a ~2 years old motor isn't normal. Who was the manufacturer?

Cheers,
Brad


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## DanielP (Mar 21, 2013)

Mike, Not difficult at all. It comes with good instructions and doesn't take long.


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## DanielP (Mar 21, 2013)

> Having to replace the centrifugal switch and capacitors in a ~2 years old motor isn t normal. Who was the manufacturer?
> 
> Cheers,
> Brad
> ...


MrUnix, See Title of Post.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

> MrUnix, See Title of Post.
> - DanielP


Sorry - I was not aware that SawStop made their own motors, which is why I asked. The only ones I've seen for them were no-name "Made in Taiwan" motors (like here).

Cheers,
Brad


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## DanielP (Mar 21, 2013)

Yeah, it says SawStop LLC Induction motor, made in Taiwan.


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## AHuxley (Apr 22, 2009)

> Yeah, it says SawStop LLC Induction motor, made in Taiwan.
> 
> - DanielP


I think the point was SS didn't build and own a motor planet no more than they built and own a table saw manufacturing plant. But, if they private label them there is no easy way to know the origin.

In the end the quality of caps has gone down hill over the last couple of decades, even those made in the US. While it is not usual to have to change caps within a couple of years on woodworking machines it does indeed happen.


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## MikeCo (Jan 15, 2017)

Great - Thanks for letting me know.



> Mike, Not difficult at all. It comes with good instructions and doesn t take long.
> 
> - DanielP


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## Grant_ (Feb 4, 2017)

Just reading through this thread because I seem to be having a similar problem. One difference is that I'm using the 3HP version. I am in a newly built house (less than a year old) and I had the builder run a dedicated 220 circuit to my garage, since I knew I would use it for my workshop. My table saw is the only device I will have plugged into this circuit.

I just got my Sawstop 3HP PCS assembled, but I had two problems. 1) The plug on the end of the power cable (3-prong) didn't match the wall receptacle (4-prong) installed by the builder, and 2) the power cord wasn't long enough for me to move the saw out into the middle of the shop.

I bought the necessary parts and made a longer power cord, with a plug to match my wall receptacle. I connected the new power cord to the saw as per the instruction manual. I plugged in the saw, turned it on, and got the solid green light. However, when I tried to start it up I got the humming sound, the blade started to spin for about a second, then stopped. I see the blinking green / solid red which indicates the motor rotation problem. It doesn't appear that the thermal breaker tripped because I'm not able to reset it. I can make the blade spin by hand.

I was worried that maybe I did something wrong when connecting my new power cord, but it sounds like this is a known issue with the motor?!?

Any thoughts?
-Grant


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## Woodbum (Jan 3, 2010)

I got in on the thread late. Just disregard the following, since I don't know how to delete it. You mentioned that it was in warranty. Did you contact SS tech support? What was their take on the issue. If you didn't, then that is the place that I would check.


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## Grant_ (Feb 4, 2017)

As luck would have it, this problem occurred around 8pm on a Saturday night, so the timing was not ideal. I have sent a message to SS customer support. I've heard great things about their support, so I'm expecting I'll hear back from them on Monday morning.

Thanks!


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## Sunstealer73 (Sep 2, 2012)

Mine did this once when I was making a lot of little cuts over and over with lots of stops and starts. The brake also tripped while I was trying to figure out what was going on, the blade was completely stopped when that happened. It hasn't done it since though.


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## DanielP (Mar 21, 2013)

"Mine did this once when I was making a lot of little cuts over and over with lots of stops and starts. "... Sunstealer

That's what I do, lots of starts and stops. I think it burns the point of contact out faster.


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## maverik (Dec 30, 2015)

I'm glad the OP got his saw going, but after reading the other post's it seems the fundamental problem is the motor SS uses is not he right one for this application, (have to agree with Brad on this one) The OP said the inside of the motor was caked with saw dust and the centrifugal switch was gummed up, more than likely causing the contacts to burn. Who in there right mind puts an open motor on a table saw, should have been a TEFC motor. IMHO when the warranty is up I would replace it with the rite motor.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

Not using a TEFC motor in a tablesaw is a mistake unless your goal is planned obsolescence which would seem to be the case. Tablesaws aren't exactly new and all the major players have installed TEFC motors for a very, very long time.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

> Who in there right mind puts an open motor on a table saw, should have been a TEFC motor. IMHO when the warranty is up I would replace it with the rite motor.
> - Lee


To be fair, that is a TEFC motor. However, just because it's enclosed doesn't mean that sawdust intrusion can't happen - it does (just not as fast). Here is inside of a TEFC Baldor motor getting it's bearings replaced:










There is a problem with how the newer motors have their centrifugal switch moved outboard of the bell end cap though, which exposes it to more contaminates.

Cheers,
Brad


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## Grant_ (Feb 4, 2017)

My problem doesn't appear to be the motor. I spent an hour on the phone with SS support today. My saw is getting good power. When I open up the contactor cover on the back of the switch box, and I touch the two buttons, the motor and blade spin right up to full speed with no issues. However, when I pull the stop paddle to start the blade that way, that's when I get the rumble/hum, the blade tries to spin and then stops, and I get the blade rotation error.

The tech was stumped and wanted to talk to some other folks who weren't around today. I should hear back tomorrow, and hopefully they'll have a plan of action for me.

Fingers crossed.


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## MGoBlue2005 (Mar 12, 2014)

Grant,
I just got mynew SawStop and I'm having the same exact issue. What was the resolution from SawStop? From my limited knowledge and troubleshooting I'm guessing a bad contactor coil. So frustrating not being able to get my new toy working!

Josh


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## Grant_ (Feb 4, 2017)

Hi Josh,

Congrats on your SawStop. My problem was my own fault. I had to create my own extension cord, because the SawStop cord was too short and had a 3-prong plug. I'm in a new house and the builder installed a 4-prong outlet in my garage. So I went to Lowes, bought the cord and correct 4-prong plug, but I wired up the plug incorrectly. As a result the saw was only getting 120V, not the full 240. That was causing the error to fire.

The SawStop tech support guy was great. He walked me through the process of testing everything with my multi-meter to identify the problem. Once I wired the plug properly and the saw got the full 240V it started up with no problems.

Hope this helps you…
-Grant


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## MGoBlue2005 (Mar 12, 2014)

Grant,
Thanks for the reply! Looks like I'm in the same boat as you are too because I too had to put on a new cord for a 4 prong outlet. My guess is that only sending 120V to the saw too. Would you mind sharing what the wiring fix was?

Thanks so much for your help!

Josh


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## Grant_ (Feb 4, 2017)

Josh,

Sure thing. The cord cable I bought only had 3 wires, but the new plug had four prongs so one of those prongs wouldn't get a wire connected to it. I had to insert my multi-meter probes into the 4 slots in the outlet to figure out which ones were carrying the 240 volts. Once I figured that out, I had to make sure the three wires in the cord were connected to the prongs on the plug that would go into those slots. Turns out I had a wire going to an incorrect prong. Make sense? I am far from an electrical genius, so I was glad the SawStop tech knew what he was doing and could talk me through it. If you, like me, are uncomfortable with anything electrical-related, I would suggest calling SawStop and asking them to walk you through the process.

Unfortunately, I cannot remember who specifically I talked to or I would pass that name along.

Good luck! Hope that helps.
Grant


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## MGoBlue2005 (Mar 12, 2014)

Grant,
Worked like a charm! Thanks for your help. Super excited to have the new saw up and running!


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## mysterymeat (Jun 6, 2019)

Reviving a long dead thread just to add another data point for anyone else that may come across this thread via Google. After a month of troubleshooting with 4 different techs at SawStop, it turned out that my no blade rotation code was solved by replacing the switchbox. This was after they had me replace contactor box, cartridge cable, cartridge and my breaker. At the time of my issue (June 2019), their internal knowledge base gave them no basis for replacing my switchbox as it passed all of the tests they had me perform on it. I think they only finally sent me one to appease me and because they had run out of ideas and were just throwing parts at it.

Again, just wanted to add this data point for anyone else that stumbles across this thread in search of a problem that seems to be very rare. While it took a long time for SawStop to get me back up and running, which was very frustrating on a saw I'd had for only 3 weeks, every tech I spoke to seemed genuinely determined to solve my problem and


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

> Reviving a long dead thread just to add another data point for anyone else that may come across this thread via Google. After a month of troubleshooting with 4 different techs at SawStop, it turned out that my no blade rotation code was solved by replacing the switchbox. This was after they had me replace contactor box, cartridge cable, cartridge and my breaker. At the time of my issue (June 2019), their internal knowledge base gave them no basis for replacing my switchbox as it passed all of the tests they had me perform on it. I think they only finally sent me one to appease me and because they had run out of ideas and were just throwing parts at it.
> 
> Again, just wanted to add this data point for anyone else that stumbles across this thread in search of a problem that seems to be very rare. While it took a long time for SawStop to get me back up and running, which was very frustrating on a saw I d had for only 3 weeks, every tech I spoke to seemed genuinely determined to solve my problem and
> 
> - mysterymeat


Sure glad I don't own one.


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

I am very glad I own a Sawstop. Great fit and finish, accurate, smooth running and the added safety.


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

> Sure glad I don't own one.


I'm glad I bought mine seven years ago … it is one fine piece of machinery and has served me flawlessly.


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## Nubsnstubs (Aug 30, 2013)

> I am *very glad* I own a Sawstop. Great fit and finish, accurate, smooth running and the added safety.
> 
> - Redoak49





> Sure glad I don t own one.
> 
> *I m glad* I bought mine seven years ago … it is one fine piece of machinery and has served me flawlessly.
> 
> - TheDane


Since both of you are glad you bought one, my question is this. How many times have you put your fingers into the rotating blade? If you haven't, is believing if you do get into the blade, you won't lose any?

I've lost a couple tips over the years, and it's quicker than a blink of an eye. The weenie demo they do is in very slow motion compared the what actually happens when the injury is imminent. Ask the inventor of the sawstop technology to slam their hand across a spinning blade, and then show us his hand or fingers, if there are any left. I'm not trying to be negative. Just reasonable…...... Jerry (in Tucson)


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## Firewood (Dec 4, 2013)

Jerry - I bought my sawstop about 4 years ago. Even though I've experienced 2 non-skin related trips, I still have no regrets in my investment. I watched a demo at the woodworking show where the demonstrator was encouraged to use push the hot-dog laiden plywood into the blade just like he wood a typical cut. Well, the brake tripped as expected and honestly, the hot-dog skin was barely nicked. Remember - the trip mechanism occurs in ~5 milliseconds. That's faster than a car's airbag. Besides all that, it's a really well built saw and the customer service is outstanding - IMHO.


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

I have had zero flesh contacts. If the only advantage of the Sawstop was the safety, I might have thought twice about buying it. However, it is a really well built with fit and finish and accuracy. It is a joy to use.

I have had a Incra 1000SE contact and trip due to my stupidity. I mounted the blade and brake cartridge near my saw as a reminder.


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## CWWoodworking (Nov 28, 2017)

> Ask the inventor of the sawstop technology to slam their hand across a spinning blade, and then show us his hand or fingers, if there are any left. I m not trying to be negative. Just reasonable…...... Jerry (in Tucson)
> 
> - Nubsnstubs


This statement is the opposite of reasonable. It ridiculous. It's like asking air bag manufacturers to t-bone somebody on purpose.

The fact is the technology works. If someone happen to slip and run their had into the blade with force, lm sure there would be more damage than that slow speed.

But the question should be what would it look like WITHOUT the technology? Much, much worse.

I don't own a SS, but appreciate the idea, the fact it saves injuries, and they made it affordable to the masses. All of this on top of the fact it's a great saw.

My blade supplier can get me Powermatic and jet. He told me to get a SS. To quote them "it's just a great saw".


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

The Saw stop is as controversial as Republicans vs Democrats. I have nothing against Saw stop. I understand it is a well built saw. Personally it is not for me. I drive an old car (2006) that doesn't have automatic braking or rear view TV. Does that mean I have to go out and buy the latest and greatest! When I'm working in my shop, a tree could fall, crashing into my shop while I'm at the saw. One has to evaluate what is right for ones self. Finances are also a big factor.


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## Kazooman (Jan 20, 2013)

Probably not fast enough with the finger to satisfy the SawStop haters, but here is a real finger being pushed into the blade with a SawStop. The action begins at about the four minute mark.

By the way, the finger belongs to the much reviled Steve Gass, the inventor of SawStop. He has enough confidence in his product to stick a finger into the moving blade.

https://video.search.yahoo.com/search/video?fr=mcafee&p=saw+stop+actual+finger+touch+video#id=6&vid=4ab0ecaab02a8c6653c9fed4b7570210&action=click


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