# Need some help: Jet 1642evs-2



## Sominus (Nov 17, 2013)

I'm putting together an almost completely disassembled Jet 1642evs-2. If someone out there who has one of these would be willing to open up and take a picture of the inverter box on the back of the head unit, I would be most appreciative.

What I really need to know is the jumper position (I or V) and dial position of the control dial….

Thanx in advance!


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## Wildwood (Jul 22, 2012)

You can find a manual online, have the 110V 1642! Guess about the same but I am not touching the electronic package. Hope these diagrams help.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/79879/Jet-Jwl-1642evs.html?page=28#manual

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/79879/Jet-Jwl-1642evs.html?page=29#manual

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/79879/Jet-Jwl-1642evs.html?page=30#manual


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## Wildwood (Jul 22, 2012)

My lathe came with a DVD, and Delta Electronic "VFD-S Quick Start Guide." You might check on line copy of that pup.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

A quick glance at the manual only shows one jumper, which is to control the behavior of the control inputs M0-M5 (Fwd/Rev/Reset/MS1/MS2/MS3). You can switch between source and sink modes, which means either the switch will provide voltage, or it will provide a ground depending on how you have the jumper. In source mode, you use the 17V terminal with the inputs, while in sink mode, you use GND. If you can figure out how those inputs are wired to the switches on the front of the lathe, you can probably determine which way the jumper needs to be set.

As for the speed control dial on the unit - my guess is that the unit is programmed to use an external speed control POT (that lathe has one on the front, along with a speed display, right?), so the one on the unit would not matter.

Cheers,
Brad


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## Sominus (Nov 17, 2013)

So it turns out that the wiring diagram in the jet manual does not match what is required by the VFD… 
As it turns out the lathe/VFD requires a 220 V input. The previous owner was trying (and failing) to convert it to 110. I hope that by the time this is all finished I will have a working lathe. I hope that the improvements attempted by the previous owner didn't fry the inverter. Hopefully, I will not have to replace it, however I will if I have to since they are relatively inexpensive.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

> So it turns out that the wiring diagram in the jet manual does not match what is required by the VFD…
> As it turns out the lathe/VFD requires a 220 V input. The previous owner was trying (and failing) to convert it to 110.
> - Michael Dow


Not sure what manual you are looking at, but the one on the Jet web site shows wiring for both. The 1hp JWL-1642EVS uses the Delta VFD007S11A drive, which takes 120V single phase input. The 2hp JWL-1642EVS-2 uses the Delta VFD015S21U drive, which uses 240V single phase input. Both VFD's share the same frame/case size, and other than the difference in input voltage, the connection points, jumpers, and input/output functions are, according to the manual for the VFD, the same across all of them.

Also, based on the wiring diagram in the manual for the lathe, it looks like the inputs (M0-M5) are supplying GND, not 17v, so the jumper you were asking about (J2) should be set to SINK (NPN).

Cheers,
Brad


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## Sominus (Nov 17, 2013)

The VFD I have is definitely an A unit, not a U, which could explain the wiring differences. It is also possible that it is not the original VFD. I am literally staring at a box of parts which, when assembled, might resemble something exactly unlike a 1642evs lathe.

I was just on the phone with Deltaww (the makers of the VFD)...

If I have to buy another VFD, I could get screwed since there could be a lockout code on an exact replacement… the tech I spoke to said that he wasn't aware that the lock code.could be reset, thus I would have bought a brick.

He suggested a more modern VFD instead, even going so far as to state that some of these older VFDs could degrade over time.

Any thoughts?


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

The letter on the end of the model # is just a revision code, and really should not make any difference regarding the wiring (or it would/should be noted in the manual). Usually it's just upgraded software or some other minimal changes that bump the revision number up, but you never know - they could have done something weird between all of those revisions. Can you check the motor and see what the data plate says it is? The only difference between the 1642 and 1642-2 is the motor (and thus the VFD and input voltage) as far as I can tell. What exactly is different in the wiring that varies from the manual? There isn't really much to it, and it should be pretty easy to figure out any differences and how to handle them.

As for replacing it - I seriously doubt that if you buy a new one that the lock code would be set. Would piss off a lot of people if it were! That is something that you set after purchase, if desired - which most people just leave alone.

For a more modern VFD, that is certainly an option. The functionality of the drives are pretty much the same across manufacturers and models. If you look at the wiring diagrams across a bunch of different units, you will see that they all look almost identical. About the only real difference is in the programming. Fortunately, there usually is not a lot that needs to be changed. But I'd try to get what you got working first before throwing more money at the problem.

Cheers,
Brad


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## Sominus (Nov 17, 2013)

There are some minor differences with the different "frames" (indicated by, in many cases, the last letter). The wiring blocks do change.

The motor is an 8.1 amp 2hp 230v 3ph motor. The input/output characteristics of the VFD, other characteristics aside, are correct for the motor. I still have some work to do to make sure that this VFD isn't completely screwed, but the covid lockdown is hampering things a bit. When I can get to Home Depot or the like, I'll get the bits that I need to properly wire this beast up. I have NO idea what the previous owner was thinking, but they had to have been completely off their rocker to think that this was going to work.

A new VFD won't kill me price wise, and considering I only have $200 in the lathe, I have some wiggle room. I don't know how much I should worry about the "old VFD" issue.. a newer version costs a little more, ($400iish) but would still turn into a nice lathe for the price. I can buy an older (like the one that is currently on the lathe) for under $200.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Sounds like you have the right VFD… and it does look like the "A" and "U" revisions use the same wiring diagram - only the "E" revision seems to have the source/sink jumper (is one present on yours?). The one you have uses GND for the inputs, which is similar to the TECO and most other VFD's. Here is the diagram from the manual (note the applicable revision numbers on the top):










Only thing you need to hookup on the VFD (besides the power connections) is the fwd/rev switch (GND/M0/M1), and the speed pot (AV1/+10v). Do the wire colors in the lathe manual match what is in yours? If so, you are golden.










Cheers,
Brad


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## Sominus (Nov 17, 2013)

So one major deviation between my VFD and the one pictured is that on the row where input/output occurs, the picture shows 7 ports for wires.

Mine has 6.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

> So one major deviation between my VFD and the one pictured is that on the row where input/output occurs, the picture shows 7 ports for wires.
> 
> Mine has 6.
> 
> - Michael Dow


LOL - if you are talking about the high voltage in/out lugs, that is fine. The 'missing' lug is for the third wire used with 3 phase input. Yours is a *single phase input only* VFD and not needed. You are fine, and it looks like you are all wired up correctly and ready to go.

Cheers,
Brad


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## Sominus (Nov 17, 2013)

Well, I was able to get to Home Depot today to get the bits I needed to run a 220 line to test the VFD.

Alas, I believe the VFD is dead. There is power going in, but there is no display output on the VFD, nor is there any power out.


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## Sominus (Nov 17, 2013)

Found a used but tested VFD on eBay for under $100.. it's on a slow boat from China now…. that will give me time to re-finish the head…


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## bigJohninvegas (May 25, 2014)

Hi Michael,
I have a Jet 16X42evs. It is a 120v. bought new in 2014. So not sure if I can be of any help. 
But here are 3 photos of my VFD. 
I have the paperwork and somewhere the cd that came with the lathe.
Let me know if you think I may have info you can use or need. 
Good Luck

Quick edit, I added 2 more photos. Name plate on my motor, and the name plate on the lathe itself. 
Also, I am no electrician. But, two other friends that have had this lathe have had the red E stop button fail. And it seems that when it failed, everything went out. Even the display on the VFD. Both lathes were a few years older than mine.


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## Sominus (Nov 17, 2013)

So I got a new VFD and was able to make the motor turn by manually shorting terminals, but there seems to be some minor wiring issues in the router head which I will address shortly.

The digital display appears to be shot. Not a major issue, but if I can find a new/replacement unit, that will solve that issue..

Anyone got a dead 1642 that they would be willing to part with the display from?


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## bigJohninvegas (May 25, 2014)

> So I got a new VFD and was able to make the motor turn by manually shorting terminals, but there seems to be some minor wiring issues in the router head which I will address shortly.
> 
> The digital display appears to be shot. Not a major issue, but if I can find a new/replacement unit, that will solve that issue..
> 
> ...


Hello, Just wondering if you go that lathe running?


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## Sominus (Nov 17, 2013)

I got it to the point of verifying that the motor will run and I can change the speed, then got stalled. I started a cosmetic restore on it as well. Once I get a new beam in my shop (!!) I will be back in the running to finish putting it together

Thanx for asking!


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