# older Craftsman 9" table saw



## paulm12 (Oct 31, 2014)

I got a used 9" saw (free) from a neighbor. Part number 11324140. Seems good, has some grime and some surface rust. This is my first table saw, and I would use for small projects (mailbox, birdhouse, etc). Is it worth cleaning and fixing up? I want to clean and grease the bearings, etc inside before I use. Any advice on that? Should I take the top off to clean up inside?










thanks all


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Emerson built saw from around the 70's… direct drive. Manual can be found here:
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=5468

They can be cleaned up pretty easily. It would be fine for what you are looking at using it for, and the price was right 

The bearings are most likely sealed, so it's better to just replace them instead of trying to rehab the old ones. From the parts diagram, it appears there are two on the tilt/raise shafts and then there will be a couple in the motor. They should be pretty standard and easily/cheaply obtained from a bearing supplier like Accurate.

To do a good job of cleaning it up, it's best to disassemble. At that point, you might as well give it some paint since you have it apart. The level of restoration is up to you and how nice you want to make it. There is only one example that I could find over at the vintagemachinery site: http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=10277










Cheers,
Brad

PS: That original stand is a huge bonus!


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## paulm12 (Oct 31, 2014)

Thanks Brad: I found the manual and picture there, thanks. And yes, I may end up restoring a bit, that is part of the fun. I have never worked on a table saw, should I just take off the top (4 hex screws) for best access?


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

I think it will be a bit more involved than just removing 4 bolts as I'm pretty sure the trunnions/motor is hanging off the table. I personally would completely disassemble it, but how far you go is up to you. They are not terribly complex machines and are pretty easy to figure out.

Cheers,
Brad


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## paulm12 (Oct 31, 2014)

Never mind, I just needed to take the saw table off of the base and turn over. Sometimes the simplest ways are hard to see at first. It is pretty clean underneath, I may just need to oil the tilt and elevation screws and bearings, at least to see how well the saw can run.

Thanks again.


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## canadianchips (Mar 12, 2010)

Price is right.
That saw will do anything you want it to.
Not sure if it will stand up yo ripping 2" OAK planks all day long, sharp blade and slow will cut them.
As far as cleaning, make sure their is no build up of sticky saw dust on trunion underneath. When you have them clean use a non greasy type of lubricant.
Parts from the 10: belt drive craftsman will fit, your table is 27" long ? Your miter guage has 3/4" slot, extension from another saw will help expand your cutting surface if you want.(just sayin)
Enjoy your new table saw.


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## paulm12 (Oct 31, 2014)

Chips: I am not looking for it to do too much, so the size should be ok for me. But it looks like I will have to disassemble. I cleaned up the adjustment screws and bearings, and got those working smooth. Blew out the motor with air, fired it up and a bit of smoke after 20 seconds. Maybe motor bearings? it rotates smooth, but maybe a bit tight, I'm not sure.

Any hints on disassembly of the motor? Start from top, bottom. etc

Thanks all.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Does the motor have ball bearings or sleeve bearings?

Motors are pretty easy to pop apart. There should only be 4 bolts holding the end-bells on. Once removed, you can pull off the ends and rotor. I've found it easiest to tap on the end of the shaft with a soft blow hammer to get the end bell moved enough to use something to pry/pull it off the rest of the way. There are many other ways people are fond of as well. Make sure you mark the end bells/housing somehow, so you can put them back exactly where they were.

Cheers,
Brad

Edit: Crap.. I forgot you have that direct drive motor… well, sort of the same procedure but usually there are separate screws holding on each end, and possibly they hold the motor to the bracket as well (there are a lot of variations). Once you dig in, it should be pretty easy to figure out. If you can get a model # for the motor, you might be able to find an exploded diagram for it online somewhere.


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## paulm12 (Oct 31, 2014)

is a craftsman ball bearing motor Class B E37845, 120V, 10 amp, 3450 RPM. I hope to find some time next week to disassemble.

thanks


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## paulm12 (Oct 31, 2014)

Hey Brad and others: I got some time, the new bearings came in (but I'm disappointed they were made in China, the EBay notice didn't say), and I am ready for assembly. I noticed that one of the stator screws was cross threaded, and my re-thread guy actually made it worse (he tried, and usually is good, so I don't blame him). I don't really want to reassemble with it. Any ideas where to get some replacement 10-32×5 1/14 flange screws? Part number 64373 is not available from Sears parts, and I've looked around. Or should I just cut some threaded rod to length?

Thanks much.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Bet if you go to a motor shop, they would have what you need laying around in their pile of dead motors 
(I actually have a bunch of them from some old motors, although they are more like 9" long).

You could probably use a threaded rod… or alternatively, you might be able to find some at places like Fastenal, Grainger, McMaster Carr, etc..

Also, buying bearings from e-bay is not really a good idea as you found out… You can get fresh, quality bearings from places like Accurate Bearing for about the same price and know you won't have to go through this song and dance again in a year.

Cheers,
Brad


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## paulm12 (Oct 31, 2014)

thanks Brad. For the screws I have tried Fastenall, Grainger, etc with no luck. I will just grab some threaded rod for now. But I will start looking around for a good motor shop to start working with going forward.

Regarding the bearings, you are right. I should have gone to Accurate to start with, these are critical parts. Lesson learned, and will apply on my next project.

thanks again for all your help, hope to have it running soon.


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## paulm12 (Oct 31, 2014)

assembly question, the motor diagram (link below) shows 3 of the thin, flat washers next to the bearing on one side. Is this correct? I only pulled one out during dis-assembly. Any ideas? Also, do the fingers on the special washer (sorry, don't know the name) go towards the bearing?

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/craf...680/00001.html

thanks again


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

The link you gave doesn't work…

But in general, finger washers are typically used to pre-load the bearing - which is a slip fit in the housing (and a press fit on the shaft). This allows for movement due to thermal expansion when the motor is in use. The pre-load should be on the bearings outer race, so the fingers need to be oriented as such. It's not really all that critical which way they face to accomplish that, as long as it doesn't touch both inner and outer races, or squish up against the bearings seal.

Cheers,
Brad


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## paulm12 (Oct 31, 2014)

reposted link:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/craftsman-all-products-parts/model-62430/0247/0731750/00051680/00001.html

any ideas on what looks like 3 flat washers?

thanks Brad.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Looks more like a spacer, but it's not all that great of a drawing… do you have pictures of what came out of yours? Best practice is to take LOTS of pictures during disassembly so you can reassemble exactly the same way. Also, keep in mind that you can't always count on parts diagrams to be 100% accurate.. stuff happens.. things might get changed around slightly at the factory due to parts substitutions or some other issue and it doesn't get reflected in the drawing.

Cheers,
Brad


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## paulm12 (Oct 31, 2014)

yeah, I took pictures, only 1 thin washer came out, fits the OD of the casting race. And the part description is washer. Just wondering why the diagram appears to show 3 of the washers.

I'll just replace, add the finger washer with fingers facing in towards the bearing (and touching this thiin washer) and tighten up.

thanks again.


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## EEngineer (Jul 4, 2008)

Hahahaha!

I just can't help but notice the sigs in these last two posts…

To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

Paul M - Beginning the journey

Let us all know how it works out!


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## paulm12 (Oct 31, 2014)

Great catch EE. As for the young, not so much. And the stupid, well, I prefer to think of it as learning from my mistakes. And I am enjoying the journey.

Paul


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## EEngineer (Jul 4, 2008)

I am not young, either…

and still waiting for that "wise" part!

I got stupid down pat, tho.


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## paulm12 (Oct 31, 2014)

Well I got the motor assembled, and applied power, and still some smoke. Must be in the windings themselves. I will set this project aside and look around for a replacement motor.

Thanks Brad for the advice along the way, I learned a few more things. And EE, well, I am now a few days older, and hopefully, maybe, a little bit wiser.


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## paulm12 (Oct 31, 2014)

after looking around for another motor, and also reading many of the forum comments here on used saws, I decided I'd be better off just getting a different saw. So if anyone needs any of the parts from this saw (I already scrapped the motor), let me know. I still have the stand (bottom and top sections), the cast table top, the blade insert, the motor cradle, the front panel and the motor control box.

Thanks


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## virgilex (Nov 3, 2015)

I had a saw that was virtually identical to that one, and it worked great for basic stuff. You will be more than happy using it for birdhouse/mailbox projects and beyond.


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## CherylH (4 mo ago)

Hey Paul M, if you ever want to sell that rip guide, let me know. I have the exact same saw that was my Daddy's but I dropped the rip guide and broke the handle. It can't be mended.

Desperate to find another one if there's one out there. Parts are considered out of production.


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## tvrgeek (Nov 19, 2013)

It has no riving knife. Make a ZCI with a riving knife immediately. As the fence will be junk, as will the miter gauge. Consider how much you can do on a sled. For the small projects, it may work fine.

Belt will need replacing. Get a quality US made belt. Gates or Goodyear if you can. Chinese belts are not round and cause a lot of vibration. Of course, decent blades are required. The saw just makes the blade go round and round. The blade makes the cut. Too bad you ae not local as I have a 8 1/2 blade I found.

Do watch/read up on TS safety. They are terribly dangerous.


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