# Newbie question - how to attach fixtures to the side of a table saw rip fence.



## Diomedes (Oct 27, 2014)

I just installed a router extension wing in my Ridgid table saw and would like to use the "back side" of the fence to put a split fence for my router. I see that my table saw fence has a t-track in both sides of the rip fence (two on top) and I would like to know how to add a flush fixture to this T-Track.

What I see many doing, that makes total sense, is that they split a piece of wood that allows both pieces to be movable, and then flush mount it to the fence whilst recessing the heads of the fastener in the fence.

What I don't understand is how this is done. What bolts do I use - or combination of nuts and bolts - allow me to loosen the fence from the front and allow me to attach it to the fence without bottoming out on the fence.

I hope this all makes sense and that you can help.

Thanks!

DI


----------



## ADHDan (Aug 17, 2012)

Google image search for table saw router fence. You'll pull up a bunch of good ideas, including this:










With a t-slot installed in the router fence faces, you can put the knobs behind the faces so that they tighten from the back rather than the front. It'd be pretty easy to modify that style of fence to use split faces rather than a single face.


----------



## ADHDan (Aug 17, 2012)

Unnecessary post.


----------



## ADHDan (Aug 17, 2012)

Unnecessary post.


----------



## Diomedes (Oct 27, 2014)

ADHDan,

I think you may have, inadvertently, answered my question. See those T-Track bolts on the far left of the wooden fence that attach the shop built fence to the aluminum one?

I see you slide the bolt head into the T-Track - but in the case of simply attaching a split fence to the back of the rip fence - do I insert the nut first and then thread the bolt on to the nut through the wood?


----------



## ADHDan (Aug 17, 2012)

With any build, you're going to have a tough time getting a split fence attached directly to the R4512 fence without having something sticking out on the router fence. If you thread a nut into the saw fence and bolt the split fence to it (counterboring the bolt head), it will be very difficult to unscrew the bolt in order to adjust your split fence parts. If you thread the bolt into the saw fence, you'll have to use thicker material for your split fence and then counterbore a deep and wide hole in order to accommodate a wing nut with finger clearance for loosening/tightening - but that's probably the best way to go.

If you laminate two pieces of 3/4" MDF or plywood, you probably could counterbore a big enough hole for it to work with a wing nut, but if it were me I'd probably just do it like the fence in the picture. It'll allow for easier adjusting and give you clearance for a dust port.


----------



## Diomedes (Oct 27, 2014)

This is what I needed to read ADHDan. I appreciate you taking the time to answer me. I just couldn't make it make sense in my head.

Now I can.


----------



## gwilki (May 14, 2014)

I have the same saw and fence. I have many jigs and fences that I bolt onto the stock fence. I do not use knobs for any of them. I bought square headed 1/4" bolts and nuts. The bolt heads slide into the slots on the stock fence. I counter bore the fixtures to take a flat washer and a nut and I simply tighten the nuts with a socket.

My saw came with 3 of these bolts, so buying a box that are the same was easy.

I can send you pics if my explanation is not clear.This really is a simple solution to your issue.


----------



## Diomedes (Oct 27, 2014)

Well of course I knew THAT gwilki…..

Okay… so I had no clue and that is a simple solution. OFF TO THE HARDWARE!!!!

Thanks - will post up with pics later if I can sort this all out.

i's not that smart.


----------

