# Woodworker Chronicles



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*Don't be such a ☐ *

I've always wondered why are there sets of squares out there. Isn't a square a square? aren't they all the same? Can't you just have 1 and be done with it since if something is square…well - it's square, right?

A recent check made me realize I probably have more squares than any other tool in my toolbox (excluding chisels and drill bits of course). How did that happen?!?

When I first started woodworking, I got myself a 12" square from the BORG. it's an Empire Pro 12" combination square. It was always square and did it's job well. In fact, I still have it and use it on a regular basis to this day and have nothing bad to say about it. it simply works and is very affordable It's just that at some point, I stopped at an estate sale and found a 12" Starrett equivalent which I reviewed here (as compared to the Empire Pro square). In fact, It started to grow on me after writing the review. It's not that the Starrett was any squarer, it's just that it's operation was smoother, and it's finish more refined, easier to read, and at a higher (64th) graduation, not that I read 64th much, but when you need to it's nice to have it, and so I repurposed the Empire square to household jobs (it has a level in it, so it does come in very handy around the house) and kept the Starrett at the toolbox.

A 12" combination square is a very handy and versatile tool. It can check for square, it can check for 45s, it can be used as a straightedge in certain situations and it can transfer square and parallel lines 12" deep into parts:









...But, since it IS this long and it does have this reach, it also means that it's more cumbersome and less friendly to use when working with smaller parts, or for checking parts for square, not to mention good luck trying to keep this in your front pocket all day long (yes I can think of a joke or 2 and I know you can too). Enter the eBay found 6" smaller version:










Same functionality in a smaller footprint and much easier to handle as the head is smaller and can fits nicely in your palm for quick work. Also since the head is smaller it can reach into 45 corners deeper than the 12" square (good when you are setting your TS at 45 and want to verify the angle when the blade is lowered for example). Great all around square bar none with the smoothest action I've seen in this size.

But even that one doesn't fit too well in a front pocket… Decided to try Rocklers 4" double square:










This one has been my all around square for the longest time. it's small, fits in the pocket, fits in your hand for quick work, with the only down side compared to a combination square is that it doesn't do 45 angles which is fine since the majority of my work around machines and workbench involves square and flat and for those times I do miters I can grab one of the combination squares. the 4" double square is probably the tool that gets the most use as I use it to check for square, measure small parts, and mark parts for joinery and transfer lines. Unless I need longer layout lines this one does it all.

But what I really wanted was a square that is small and can not only fit in the front pocket, but also in an apron pocket. something that just won't take space, and be light and unnoticeable until I need to use it. For that I use a 2 1/2" precision square. Mine is a Brown&Sharpe, but other makers make a similar square (Starrett, Lufkin to name a few). I kinda like the B&S because the top of the head is beveled in where it meets the rule allowing a very clear view of the markings at the edge of the rule:









I must say of all the squares this is my favorite one. Although the all metal body and oily/sweaty fingers do call for extra care to be taken with it (wiping after use) not extreme, but something to keep in mind.

Last but not least, there is also the die maker square:









This one also has a 2 1/2" rule as well as other rules (thin, offset, 45/30 angles), but it's unique feature is that the rule can be set to anywhere between 0-10 degrees off square which is really meant to check the offset of dies, but in woodworking can be used to layout dovetails or similar geometry:









And so looking back, from just needing a square, this collection has grown quite a bit:









You can kinda see which one gets the most use right there, but the funny thing about it is that they all see use on a regular basis.

*Checking for Square*
So what good is it having a square if it isn't a square? or wait a minute… how would you even know if your square is a square? use another square? what is that square isn't square either? use a 3rd square? oh boy…

There are several ways to check a square for squareness. Some requires more measuring tools then others, some providing quicker results then others, some providing more accurate results then others. For sake of woodworking, the following are 2 ways to check your square for squareness. One requiring an additional device that I believe is available for purchase or can be made and provides with a faster and more accurate result, while the other doesn't really take much to achieve and can be done in any shop at any time and like I said for the purpose of woodworking is just as good as any other method.

*The Round Square*
What you say? round square? how is that even possible? and how would you check a square with a round object?

The answer is explained in the method of making the measuring device, the Cylindrical-square. A cylindrical square is a cylinder that is made on the lathe to very high tolerances. The idea is that if the cylinder is turned to be of consistent diameter across it's body than that means that the sides are totally flat and parallel to the axis of it's rotation (on the lathe). If then the base is faced totally perpendicular to the axis of rotation then that results in the base and the side of the cylinder being square. In fact the base doesn't even need to be highly machined as long as the circumference of the base is faced properly and there are more details about it, but that probably won't make this any clearer so I'll stop here.

Using a flat reference surface (granite for example) and a cylindrical square is a fast and accurate way to check a square for squareness if it's rule makes full contact throughout it's length with the cylinder when placed next to it:









*The Straight Edge Method*
If you don't have a flat reference surface and don't have a cylindrical square (like most of us don't) then an alternative to checking a square for squareness and in my opinion what should be named 'the official woodworker way to check a square' is to use a surface with a known straight edge (jointed on the jointer, or another known surface/part that has a straight edge - yes even using a straight edge).

Butt you square against the straight edge of the part on one side of the square, and mark a line down it's rule:









I like using a mechanical pencil as the lines produced are always fine, and always consistent in width and sharpness (I use softer graphite so it does not gouge the wood) and it should look like this:









Pretty isn't it?

Now flip your square and butt it against the same straight edge now with the square facing the other way, align the rule with the previously made line and mark another line (yes I can use both hands):









If your square is out-of-square you will probably see something like this:









But if your square is indeed square, the 2 lines should merge into one, and what you will hopefully see (what you WANT to see) which verifies your square is indeed what its named after is this:









Just make sure the rule in your square (if you have an adjustable square) is properly positioned and locked in the head and that there are no debris or dents on the head of the square that otherwise WILL introduce and error and throw your readings way off.

Now you can feel good knowing your square is up for the challenge you present it with everyday you use it. Hope this was useful and if not at least entertaining and if not then there isn't much I can say since I will not be reimbursing anyone for lost time 

Thanks for reading,
Peace.


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

PurpLev said:


> *Don't be such a ☐ *
> 
> I've always wondered why are there sets of squares out there. Isn't a square a square? aren't they all the same? Can't you just have 1 and be done with it since if something is square…well - it's square, right?
> 
> ...


Sharon: I think you are "Square"

In a good way.

Great trivia, In a good way.

I've done the opposites match when cutting wood and checking the table for square, but never thought about using it to check a square. Nice job there.

I've also never heard of a cylinder square, but them I haven't done much lathe work.

What do you do when the outside of a square is square, but the inside is off, or vise-versa.


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Don't be such a ☐ *
> 
> I've always wondered why are there sets of squares out there. Isn't a square a square? aren't they all the same? Can't you just have 1 and be done with it since if something is square…well - it's square, right?
> 
> ...


it seems to me I need a smaller one than the framing square I have ….. 
I´m with Karson …. what do you do if one of the sides ain´t paralel with the other

great blog 

Dennis


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## ellen35 (Jan 1, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Don't be such a ☐ *
> 
> I've always wondered why are there sets of squares out there. Isn't a square a square? aren't they all the same? Can't you just have 1 and be done with it since if something is square…well - it's square, right?
> 
> ...


You can never have too many squares or clamps!
Nice job on the blog, Sharon.
Ellen


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## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Don't be such a ☐ *
> 
> I've always wondered why are there sets of squares out there. Isn't a square a square? aren't they all the same? Can't you just have 1 and be done with it since if something is square…well - it's square, right?
> 
> ...


Are we square on this now?

I think so.

Nice write up, Sharon.

Lee


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## woodpeckerbill (Jun 9, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Don't be such a ☐ *
> 
> I've always wondered why are there sets of squares out there. Isn't a square a square? aren't they all the same? Can't you just have 1 and be done with it since if something is square…well - it's square, right?
> 
> ...


Glad you are all squared away! Great write-up.


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## chief101 (Oct 30, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Don't be such a ☐ *
> 
> I've always wondered why are there sets of squares out there. Isn't a square a square? aren't they all the same? Can't you just have 1 and be done with it since if something is square…well - it's square, right?
> 
> ...


Great article, very interesting.


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## cjwillie (Sep 6, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *Don't be such a ☐ *
> 
> I've always wondered why are there sets of squares out there. Isn't a square a square? aren't they all the same? Can't you just have 1 and be done with it since if something is square…well - it's square, right?
> 
> ...


I find myself using my 4" Starrett comb. square more than most of the others, but on the other extreme, I picked up a couple 24" rulers for my larger combination heads. They don't see a lot of use but they are great when needed. I have one 24" ruler that takes a bigger head that I have not been able to find. It is 1 1/2" wide and makes a great straight edge but I would like to find the other head. They are all Starrett or Lufkin and do interchange.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Don't be such a ☐ *
> 
> I've always wondered why are there sets of squares out there. Isn't a square a square? aren't they all the same? Can't you just have 1 and be done with it since if something is square…well - it's square, right?
> 
> ...


cjwillie- yes, I noticed that starrett/lufkin/b&s rules share similar sizings and can be interchanged between heads.

Karson - If the inside is square but the outside is not or vise versa than either the head or the rule is malformed. if this is a carpenter square you can pin it with a hammer to expand the metal and fix it (much like fixing it's out of square) but for combination squares with hardened rules I am not really sure what can be done about it other than resurfacing it or - if you check it on time - replacing it under warranty. the majority if times I noticed a square gets out of square is usually from a nick or scratch on the head/rule which can be sanded/filed off carefully (As long as you don't file and reshape the rest of the surfaces)


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Don't be such a ☐ *
> 
> I've always wondered why are there sets of squares out there. Isn't a square a square? aren't they all the same? Can't you just have 1 and be done with it since if something is square…well - it's square, right?
> 
> ...


Hi Sharon,
I also ended up with a good bunch of squares, and use about the same as yours even I also use a big carpenters square often, these also comes in Japanese versions and that is my favorite.
Interesting reading, thank you.
Ready for some square dance now…
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Don't be such a ☐ *
> 
> I've always wondered why are there sets of squares out there. Isn't a square a square? aren't they all the same? Can't you just have 1 and be done with it since if something is square…well - it's square, right?
> 
> ...


ah, yes Mads - the good'ole carpenters square. I actually have one of those but use it so rarely that I completely forgot about it when I wrote the above  It's just so large and bulky that unless I really need to scribe a square line on a large surface I'll probably opt for something lighter and easier to manage. I did notice the japanese version on leevalley website which looks very nice, but haven't found a need that would justify purchasing it as of yet. what do usually use it for?


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Don't be such a ☐ *
> 
> I've always wondered why are there sets of squares out there. Isn't a square a square? aren't they all the same? Can't you just have 1 and be done with it since if something is square…well - it's square, right?
> 
> ...


I use it for all bigger marking, this summer when I made the shavinghorse in was in use all the time, and the Japanese one have been my pal while working on Japanese work lately. You will see when I get to post.
My Japanese is this version (the bigger) I bought it because I wanted to use Japanese marking tools with ink.
http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/productDetail.htm
The standard Danish looks like this: http://www.carl-ras.dk/e-shop/haandvaerktoej/maalevaerktoej/vinkler/toemrervinkel_8230/
So the use is for marking wider boards than our standard square can handle.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*emBRACE the BOREdom*

I can't put my finger on exactly what it is, but I am somewhat attracted to Brace bits… go figure. something about the shape and engineering of the tool really works for me I guess.

My first introduction with the brace was way back in ….2009 (ok maybe not that long ago). I was sitting in a bar, and caught her in the corner of my eye. there was something about her…. oh wait… wrong movie… OK - swap reel… I was dropping the trash at the transfer station, and in the transfer station we have a small covered area which is a swap-shop, people brings functional things they don't use anymore and other people pick them up. anyways, someone left a 8" brace NOT at the swap-shop area, but right next to the trash conveyor belt… laziness I guess, or they probably didn't know about the swapshop area… being a woodworker, I obviously picked it up. I didn't have any plans for it, but was eager to find one if I must. shortly after, my batteries in my cordless drill started to die on me, and wouldn't hold a charge. I was installing something and my battery just gave in… at which point I figured I must complete the hole and picked up the brace to finish it up. I did use a regular drill bit which was not ideal, but I managed to get through it just fine.

I have not used the brace yet (but do know my way around drills and drilling holes - I was an electric contractor in a previous life… ok maybe not previous life, but a previous job and we were running wires in places you wouldn't think possible, and lots of them).

Jumping in time to about a month ago, I went to pick up 'some old tools' off of craigslist ad. I really was interested in the Stanley #5 plane in the bunch, but figured I'd take the lot as I could make use of most of the things on it. among the tools I was surprised to find a Stanley 140 skew rabbet plane as well as the #5 I wanted to get, and another unnamed #4 that was restored and works real well, and a few other things, among those, a 8" and 10" brace bits. Since I already have a 8" brace, I didn't bother cleaning up that one, but did give the 10" some TLC since it was a different size and included a ratchet mechanism for the chuck. The before:










When I started the restoration I didn't have any more evaporust and so I cleaned the majority of it with file and a scraper. While cleaning it up under the layer of rust the model and size revealed itself to be a 10" Miller Falls:









Which was a nice surprise. I really feel lucky to live where I live. there is so much WW history around this area with Miller Falls being a drive distance away and right next to them is Starrett. It's nice holding a tool that was made right 'here' so many years ago, somewhat romantic. I actually left the metal body of the brace like that with a 'brushed' finish look which I really like.

This got me curious and I did some research RE brace types, mechanisms, pricings, sizes and all and found a really good website that discusses and lists the Miller Falls braces and other tools with a lot of good info if you are ever in the need, or just interested to learn more about it here:

http://oldtoolheaven.com/index.html

Back to the restoration - I sanded the handles, and applied several coats of BLO until it wouldn't take it anymore. and at some point got evaporust to give the chuck and the rachet a proper cleaning (could only do so much with files). the result was a really nice looking, smooth working brace:









There are different types of ratchets for the chucks, but they all allow for boring in tight corners where you don't have the spacial area to allow for a full 360 turn of the brace. The ratchets can be set to either allow only counterclockwise turns, clockwise turns, or both (simulating a brace with no ratchet). It's a nice feature to have. and I personally don't see a point of having a brace without it unless it's for it's collector value which I am not really into.

So, I really dug the brace thing ,and figured it would be cool to get one for my daughter so as a way to get into woodworking this can be a boring tool for her. Brace bits come in different sweep sizes, from ~5-~14 are probably the most common sizes. there could be sizes above and below, but I haven't seen any as of yet (and have not looked for it either). Sweep is the diameter of the arc that is made by the handle of the brace when you turn it 360 degrees (a full turn). The larger the sweep the more torque you apply to the boring bit, and theoretically the bigger the bit you can turn, but also the larger the movement you make (space wise). For some unknown reason to me (maybe just caught in a fantasy) I thought that the smaller the brace sweep, also the smaller the general dimension of the tool, and after finding a 5" brace ordered it (eBay) thinking it would work for a small kid being small brace… when I got it I was surprised to find that it was actually heavier than my 10" brace. I think the material used is heavier by Stanley as well as the chuck was larger. And so, what I found was that the smaller the sweep, the only thing that is really smaller is the sweep and nothing more, the brace and chuck are otherwise about the same length (maker/model dependent of course) and to illustrate here is the 10" Miller Falls with the 5" Stanley:










"daddy, it is heavy" ... oh well. I guess she'll have to grow a bit more before using this, maybe an eggbeater drill is more fitting to start with… but this 5" is a real sweet looking brace.

Of course I didn't really care much for having a miller falls and a stanley, and am currently awaiting arrival of a matching stanley 10" and will try to sell the miller falls as well as the 8" on Craigslist (just my own bug, I need things to match … somewhat).

Now brace bit prices are not really that high… but have you seen the prices on those (better) bit sets? holy moly! almost feels like the old' 'bait and switch technique' they get you with the tool, and then bite you with the bits…

oh well…. gotta give in to the addiction (which stops RIGHT NOW!). Bit set is on the way with the Stanley 10", at which point I might be able to free myself from power drilling larger holes even though brace bits are really meant for carpentry and not so much for precision woodworking. we'll take it one step at a time and see how this goes.

Thanks for reading,
Peace


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

PurpLev said:


> *emBRACE the BOREdom*
> 
> I can't put my finger on exactly what it is, but I am somewhat attracted to Brace bits… go figure. something about the shape and engineering of the tool really works for me I guess.
> 
> ...


My dad was something of a handyman, and we always had a small shop with a pretty good variety of tools. But I don't think we had a brace until we inherited a bunch of tools when my uncle died in '67.

Funny you should mention the bits, because I too remember having a certain fascination for them. Something about all those curves and sharp edges, and the way those curly shavings would spiral up from the hole you were boring. Almost hypnotic.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *emBRACE the BOREdom*
> 
> I can't put my finger on exactly what it is, but I am somewhat attracted to Brace bits… go figure. something about the shape and engineering of the tool really works for me I guess.
> 
> ...


Yes Charlie, just like drilling in metal on the lathe, the curly shavings that come out of the drill bit flutes are so fascinating I sometimes feel I would forget to stop the drill bit at the correct depth just to see them coming out… can be dangerous.


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## moonls (Mar 23, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *emBRACE the BOREdom*
> 
> I can't put my finger on exactly what it is, but I am somewhat attracted to Brace bits… go figure. something about the shape and engineering of the tool really works for me I guess.
> 
> ...


Sharon your blog brought to mind that I had used one of those braces long ago (30 yrs.) when we were building our pole building garage. Because the one you showed looked familiar, I went to my shop & dug it out to find that it was a Stanley 10" with the ratchet. Thanks for the trip down Memory Lane!


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *emBRACE the BOREdom*
> 
> I can't put my finger on exactly what it is, but I am somewhat attracted to Brace bits… go figure. something about the shape and engineering of the tool really works for me I guess.
> 
> ...


Sharon, the bits are sexy! I love them, how the gently show their curves. Some of the old I have are with round holes in the end so they look like something you will find on a beach.
I never seen a five inch before, I have a 6 and a ten and some really old devils.
Congrat, and thank you for the story it was refreshing.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*Not Another Sharpening Post.... - YES!*

With everyone getting stuck up and all sensitive about sharpening and what not lately I figured what better time to have yet another sharpening related post - so here it is - my way - at least nowadays (it keeps evolving as the years go by and getting better and better for me).

I keep hearing about the marvels of water and oil stones all the time, and always wanted to "be there with the best", so at some point I got a couple of arkansas stones - a hard , and a black which according to the specs should have taken me from my diamond stones shine to a higher level only heard about in legends… unfortunately it just didn't happen to me, and the results I am getting from these are subpar to my green super-fine diamond stone which gives me a much higher shine. maybe its because I'm not using "proper" honing oil? it's possible… but I digress. My point being that I simply went back to my tried and trued method of giving me a super sharp edge.

My setup involves 2 steps:

*Step 1: Flattening the Back with (3) Diamond stones*
I got this set of DMT diamond stones from Rockler when I was in my early years of woodworking as a rough shaper for edge tools, but for some reason I find that I don't have a need to go beyond these as "rough" as they may be:









I go through the 3 stones until I get mirror finish on the backs, and then move on to step 2 (who would have thought). as some would say - I am not anal about the backs - which I will get to later on this post showing what I mean, and showing the reason…

*Step 2: Setting the bevel and polishing it up using Slow wet grinder*
I picked this Scheppach grinder up on CL some years ago for a good price, but even new (same as the grizzly) it doesn't break the bank, and has been performing great everytime I use it:









It's easy to use, does a good job, grinds cool and cannot screw up the blades. Once the bevel is set and the bevel and back meet at a proper edge, I switch to the polishing wheel freehand (although you can swap the toolrest and use that as well) and let the bevel ride on the wheel from it's heel (so that if anything gets rounded - it's the non crucial part of the bevel) and bring the blade up to have the entire bevel ride on the wheel to give it a nice mirror finish.

at that point - I take the blade back to the highest grit diamond stone, and give it a light treatment on the back to remove any burrs from the grinder.

and I'm done. can shave hairs off, and slice end grain - makes me happy.

can I do better? I'm sure I can
But this is fast, efficient, and I don't have the feeling that I need to do better, so I leave it at that.

Now… why did I come to this? 
I know a woodworker that goes through some health issues, and decided to donate my set of German chisels to him to help bring up the moral. that meant I am chiselsless. as life would have it, the same day, someone posted a set of chisels for sale, which I promptly went for. the chisels arrived today quickly and well packed. Unfortunately I believe that someone tried to sharpen them but possibly didn't go about it properly.

This is pretty much what prompted me to post as someone posted a day or 2 ago about how not anal he is about the backs of chisels which I didn't realize why he posted it as I don't know anyone who IS anal about the backs of chisels, and most anyone I know including myself only flattens the front of the back (confused much?), but looking at these chisels, it seems like someone actually went through the trouble of trying to flatten - the entire back of the blade.

The problem with doing so (unless you are using a surface grinder), is that it means you will have to remove ALOT of material which not only will take forever, but also requires a lot of energy invested into it, and worst - it adds quite a bit of chance to round over the backs at the edges because there is much friction between the sharpening medium and the metal which can cause it to lift, or twist out of flat. which is what I assume happened here. the entire backs received a flattening treatment but the edges were all rounded off making it almost impossible to properly get a sharp edge out of these.

I flattened the front 1" or so of each chisel and you can see the "previous" scratch marks visible on the entire back, the "new" scratch marks I made trying to flatten only the front, and the sliver of previous scratch marks on the edge of the back as it was rounded over and is now a "low spot" which makes it almost impractical to flatten the back of the chisel where it matters - at the edge:









There are a couple of ways to address this:

the obvious - grind the front of the blade back to remove the rounded over area completely - reestablish the bevel from scratch
The rule trick - use a thin metal rule to raise the blade at the other end so that it is slightly tilted towards the edge. you will not get a "pure" flat back, but this will help by flattening ONLY the leading edge of the blade which reduces the amount of metal you are removing. 
elbow grease - keep on flattening the back until you level it off with the low spot (rounded over edge).

I chose a combination of #3 and #1. I gave the backs a bit of an extra work to get down and closer to the low spots on the fronts, and then reground the bevels which I believe were originally set at 20 degrees to 25 degrees and ground them back a bit to remove that front lowered edge.

2 hours later, I had all 7 chisels razor sharp and ready for work.

here you can see the backs where it's pretty visible how far back I flattened them as opposed to the original attempt to flatten them completely:









the only area that matters - is near the cutting edge, the rest of the back can be "somewhat flat" but it isn't critical to have it completely flat.

the bevels (I did grind the 1" chisel at 35 degree, and then decided to grind the rest at 25… I will need to redo it's bevel at some point for more paring operations):









and the cutting edge on the bevel side where you can see that the majority of the bevel is left "rough" as it doesn't do the actual cutting and does not need to be all that polished. just like the back side, it's only the edge that really needs to be flat and polished:









So that's my take on anal and lenient. be mindful of what's important, and don't sweat the rest - same with all cutting tools, and same with hand plane soles - they don't all have to be completely flat throughout end to end. only the critical parts/areas need be flat and sharpened (in blades) to the best of your ability (the more the better of course).

Hope this was helpful as a lesson, or tip, or an eye opener to some of you, or at least entertaining to others 

Peace!


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## realcowtown_eric (Feb 4, 2013)

PurpLev said:


> *Not Another Sharpening Post.... - YES!*
> 
> With everyone getting stuck up and all sensitive about sharpening and what not lately I figured what better time to have yet another sharpening related post - so here it is - my way - at least nowadays (it keeps evolving as the years go by and getting better and better for me).
> 
> ...


They look way too blunt for me!

Are you sure yer measuring the 35 degrees yer aiming for correctly

Yer blade angle looks closer to 55 degrees!


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## Woodwrecker (Aug 11, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Not Another Sharpening Post.... - YES!*
> 
> With everyone getting stuck up and all sensitive about sharpening and what not lately I figured what better time to have yet another sharpening related post - so here it is - my way - at least nowadays (it keeps evolving as the years go by and getting better and better for me).
> 
> ...


If it works for you Sharon, that's all that matters.
Your results speak for themselves.
I too have a system that I am comfortable with, and that mean more time woodworking and less time fussing.


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## alba (Jul 31, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Not Another Sharpening Post.... - YES!*
> 
> With everyone getting stuck up and all sensitive about sharpening and what not lately I figured what better time to have yet another sharpening related post - so here it is - my way - at least nowadays (it keeps evolving as the years go by and getting better and better for me).
> 
> ...


Looks a sound way of working, you will know by the feel
There is no right way, there is the way that works for you
I learnt very young, an oil stone and a strop nothing fancy
I can see my teeth in the mirror back and they cut wood

Jamie


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## MarkColan (Aug 11, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Not Another Sharpening Post.... - YES!*
> 
> With everyone getting stuck up and all sensitive about sharpening and what not lately I figured what better time to have yet another sharpening related post - so here it is - my way - at least nowadays (it keeps evolving as the years go by and getting better and better for me).
> 
> ...


And what about planes? That wheel does not look wide enough to handle the blades of those nice planes you have.

BTW I picked up some planes recently, used: #5 jack, #7 jointer, #3 smoother, and a small trimming plane, about $200 total at a used tool shop in Maine. You helped me sharpen my block plane some months back, and now it's time for me to learn to sharpen my own.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Not Another Sharpening Post.... - YES!*
> 
> With everyone getting stuck up and all sensitive about sharpening and what not lately I figured what better time to have yet another sharpening related post - so here it is - my way - at least nowadays (it keeps evolving as the years go by and getting better and better for me).
> 
> ...


Yup - as long as it works, we all find out own ways of doing things. this one is my current ways.

*Eric (the real cowtown one)*- I have yet to be able to shave hair and end grain with a blunt tool, but if you think that's possible - I'll be more than happy to know how. the angles are just fine, maybe the photo is playing tricks on you.

the proof is in the pudding as they say (and I had pudding last night).

*Mark* - nice to see you active. the plane irons are indeed wider than the grinder wheel (they are wider than almost all grinder wheels). so you need to move the iron left right to address it's entire width. in fact you have to do the same motion with chisel irons as well or you would end up grinding a groove in your wheel which is a no-no.


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

PurpLev said:


> *Not Another Sharpening Post.... - YES!*
> 
> With everyone getting stuck up and all sensitive about sharpening and what not lately I figured what better time to have yet another sharpening related post - so here it is - my way - at least nowadays (it keeps evolving as the years go by and getting better and better for me).
> 
> ...


I really NEED to care more about sharpening, but, dammit, I just can't make myself. Heck, for a long time I thought you were always supposed to whack a chisel with a hammer to make it cut something.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Not Another Sharpening Post.... - YES!*
> 
> With everyone getting stuck up and all sensitive about sharpening and what not lately I figured what better time to have yet another sharpening related post - so here it is - my way - at least nowadays (it keeps evolving as the years go by and getting better and better for me).
> 
> ...


wait a minute….. you mean you DON'T?!?

... oh boy…


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

PurpLev said:


> *Not Another Sharpening Post.... - YES!*
> 
> With everyone getting stuck up and all sensitive about sharpening and what not lately I figured what better time to have yet another sharpening related post - so here it is - my way - at least nowadays (it keeps evolving as the years go by and getting better and better for me).
> 
> ...


Why does every tool store sell Mallets if your not suppose to whack the chisel?

Nice write-up.


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Not Another Sharpening Post.... - YES!*
> 
> With everyone getting stuck up and all sensitive about sharpening and what not lately I figured what better time to have yet another sharpening related post - so here it is - my way - at least nowadays (it keeps evolving as the years go by and getting better and better for me).
> 
> ...


I love a good sharpening discussion! Great wright up.

I'm also a big fan of the diamond stones. But I'm surprised you can get a mirror polish with them. Maybe my EZE Laps need to break in a little more.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Not Another Sharpening Post.... - YES!*
> 
> With everyone getting stuck up and all sensitive about sharpening and what not lately I figured what better time to have yet another sharpening related post - so here it is - my way - at least nowadays (it keeps evolving as the years go by and getting better and better for me).
> 
> ...


ha!

maybe "mirror finish" isn't the right term for me to have used. while I can see reflection, I can also see the scratch marks - so it's not perfect. I can get a better "mirror" surface if I go to 2000grit sand paper (which I used to do in the past) but I just don't notice much of a difference in the cut when actually using the chisels - so my bottom line is to sharpen them until I get a good cut - not necessarily when I can use them as a rear view mirror.


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## MarkColan (Aug 11, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Not Another Sharpening Post.... - YES!*
> 
> With everyone getting stuck up and all sensitive about sharpening and what not lately I figured what better time to have yet another sharpening related post - so here it is - my way - at least nowadays (it keeps evolving as the years go by and getting better and better for me).
> 
> ...


Hey PurpLev and anyone else near Cambridge MA:

*Cambridge Center for Adult Education* has a "Sharpening Workshop" this Saturday, Aug 10, from 10-4. It costs $130. You bring in a new cabinet scraper and a new chisel, and the sharpening materials are provided.

Dan Paret is a local artisan woodworker who has been focused on hand tools for years, so I imagine that he knows a fair bit about sharpening. I'll be there.

You can sign up on their Web site.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Not Another Sharpening Post.... - YES!*
> 
> With everyone getting stuck up and all sensitive about sharpening and what not lately I figured what better time to have yet another sharpening related post - so here it is - my way - at least nowadays (it keeps evolving as the years go by and getting better and better for me).
> 
> ...


Nothing like finding your method of sharpening, sharpening has not only to give us sharp tools, I think it is just as important that we like the process, then we do it more often and only then do we get the true joy of woodworking.
Looks sharp and fine to me.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Not Another Sharpening Post.... - YES!*
> 
> With everyone getting stuck up and all sensitive about sharpening and what not lately I figured what better time to have yet another sharpening related post - so here it is - my way - at least nowadays (it keeps evolving as the years go by and getting better and better for me).
> 
> ...


Thanks Mads,
I agree - it has to "work" for us too and not just for the edge tools. I think this is why we see so many woodworkers using (more of less) slightly different approaches when it comes to sharpening, and all work.

and yes, it's pretty sharp


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Not Another Sharpening Post.... - YES!*
> 
> With everyone getting stuck up and all sensitive about sharpening and what not lately I figured what better time to have yet another sharpening related post - so here it is - my way - at least nowadays (it keeps evolving as the years go by and getting better and better for me).
> 
> ...


;-)


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## MarkColan (Aug 11, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Not Another Sharpening Post.... - YES!*
> 
> With everyone getting stuck up and all sensitive about sharpening and what not lately I figured what better time to have yet another sharpening related post - so here it is - my way - at least nowadays (it keeps evolving as the years go by and getting better and better for me).
> 
> ...


Again for Boston-area woodworkers, Woodcraft in Woburn is having a demo on sharpening this Saturday at 1pm. Stores in other areas may have this demo on other days.


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Not Another Sharpening Post.... - YES!*
> 
> With everyone getting stuck up and all sensitive about sharpening and what not lately I figured what better time to have yet another sharpening related post - so here it is - my way - at least nowadays (it keeps evolving as the years go by and getting better and better for me).
> 
> ...


Purp, interesting about not needing a super polish on the flat side.

I was also skeptical until I saw Paul Sellers and the results of his work in person. However I guess I've still been a little skeptical because I don't touch the flat side with the diamond stones. I use 2k grit paper to knock off the bur. I'm going to try to skip the paper and see what happens.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Not Another Sharpening Post.... - YES!*
> 
> With everyone getting stuck up and all sensitive about sharpening and what not lately I figured what better time to have yet another sharpening related post - so here it is - my way - at least nowadays (it keeps evolving as the years go by and getting better and better for me).
> 
> ...


*Mauricio* - for the back it really depends on the 'when' :
When I get a new blade which needs the back flattened - I go with diamond stones as there usually a 'lot' of material to be removed to get it to flat where it matters from the 'out of the box' state (you can see in my pics above that even after some flattening of the back with the stones there was still low spots on the edge area requiring further flattening of the back)

Once the back is flat, on consecutive/future sharpening sessions of same blade, I don't go to the extent of removing so much material that it requires diamond stones to this extent - a quick polish on the super fine , or high grit paper is all that's needed as you mentioned.

the more polished the back/edge is - the finer the edge will be. I used to take it to 1000 >> 2000 grit paper, but now feel that even without it , the blades cut good enough for my needs. yes - you can get it honed/polished to a higher degree, I just don't always practice it.


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## MarkColan (Aug 11, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Not Another Sharpening Post.... - YES!*
> 
> With everyone getting stuck up and all sensitive about sharpening and what not lately I figured what better time to have yet another sharpening related post - so here it is - my way - at least nowadays (it keeps evolving as the years go by and getting better and better for me).
> 
> ...


If anyone is interested, I have started a blog on sharpening, sharing what I am learning as a beginner to this subject. I'd be glad to have you read and discuss as I learn.

There's even an entry on how Sharon (PurpLev) got me started.


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## MarkColan (Aug 11, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Not Another Sharpening Post.... - YES!*
> 
> With everyone getting stuck up and all sensitive about sharpening and what not lately I figured what better time to have yet another sharpening related post - so here it is - my way - at least nowadays (it keeps evolving as the years go by and getting better and better for me).
> 
> ...


There IS the question on just how high a grit one should use when sharpening. Some people sharpen with a 1000/8000 water stone. There are even 12000 and higher grit stones out there - though I have learned that the grit rating scheme is not always consistent, so that a 12000 is not necessarily finer than a true 8000, for example.

In the class I took this weekend, the grits were: 220 400 1000 2500. For "remedial" chisels (ones with a bad back, for example) the teacher suggested 120 or 150, or both. And for damaged chisels (one with a chip in the cutting edge), I used a 36-grit wheel on a 1200 rpm grinder. The latter, when taken through the paces, yielded a beautiful looking, but more importantly, SHARP chisel.

One reason for going to 2500 or higher is the satisfaction of the nice mirror finish, but I'm not convinced that it makes a huge difference in cutting wood, and I doubt it makes the edge last longer.

Before taking the class, I occasionally used a cheap combo stone that I bought at a Chinese restaurant supply, really intended for knives. The two grits are probably in the range of 200/400, and I have always used it dry. It does not provide a mirror finish or anything close, but it did greatly improve the usability of my chisel, without going to higher grades. And I sharpened only the bevel side, because I didn't know better.

Now that I know better, I am certain I will get a better edge, but it will be at the cost of some additional effort. With sharpening, as in stereo equipment, there is this law of diminishing returns. For me, I am looking for the sweet spot between not too much effort and yet sharp enough for my purposes.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Not Another Sharpening Post.... - YES!*
> 
> With everyone getting stuck up and all sensitive about sharpening and what not lately I figured what better time to have yet another sharpening related post - so here it is - my way - at least nowadays (it keeps evolving as the years go by and getting better and better for me).
> 
> ...


*Mark* - thank you, and I think you've hit the nail on the head on this post:

but I'm not convinced that it makes a huge difference in cutting wood, and I doubt it makes the edge last longer. - as I mentioned, I used to take the honing process to these grits, and did get "true" mirror finish, but compared to my above sharpening process I do not remember getting the chisels to cut any better so not sure it was that beneficial.

looking for the sweet spot between not too much effort and yet sharp enough for my purposes - I think that is what we all seek, and why each of us develops a somewhat 'unique' method of doing things as our sweet spots are slightly different - bottom line - have the tools do their work.


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## MarkColan (Aug 11, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Not Another Sharpening Post.... - YES!*
> 
> With everyone getting stuck up and all sensitive about sharpening and what not lately I figured what better time to have yet another sharpening related post - so here it is - my way - at least nowadays (it keeps evolving as the years go by and getting better and better for me).
> 
> ...


Still, the mirror finish is beautiful, and it does not take much more to get it.


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