# best wood & plans for outdoor furniture



## NewfieDan (Feb 24, 2011)

I have a couple of questions on outdoor furniture.
My wife would like me to build some Adirondack chairs for new patio. She like the style that has a curved back for more comfort. I already have a few plans for straight backed chairs. Does anyone have any plans, or know where I can find some plans for a curved Adirondack chair?

The second question is what type of would is best suited to outdoors? I mean besides Cedar. I like the colour but it requires yearly refinishing. I was thinking of either maple or Douglas fir, especially since cedar is a special order item.

The chairs will most likely be put away for the winter each year. I live on the eastern tip of Canada so we get a lot of rain.


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## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

Dan,

You could try cypress, i has most of the same characteristics of cedar. Im not terribly sure about the availability in your area but its a fairly easy wood to work with.


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## richgreer (Dec 25, 2009)

IMO - the best wood for outdoor furniture is ipe. It is VERY hard and durable. I think it as teak at half the price. Finishing it is optional. Without a finish it will turn gray which some people like. With or without finish it will last forever.

I built a 400 square foot deck with it and then built all of my outdoor furniture with it. It's 10 years old with no signs of any deterioration.

B.t.w - it's hard on tools, especially drill bits.


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## LeeBarker (Aug 6, 2010)

If you can get away with not painting the chairs, that's a plus. They are very difficult to paint and repaint.

If you must, try painting as you go.

If you can do with a clear finish, make sure it is spar varnish.

The curved back is a great idea. The big honkin' wide center splat in the traditional Adirondack puts pain in every vertebra. Dumb idea. They're also very hard to get in and out of when you crest the Speed Limit Age.

Sorry I can't source the curved back plan for you, but I know they're out there; I built the loveseat years ago from a plan. Sold it. The seat, not the plan. Not comfortable.

In any event, when you find the plan, I suggest you slam together Proto #1 out of cheap stuff and then plot your modifications from there. It will be cheap tuition for lotsa learnin'.


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## bheller (Feb 20, 2011)

Try this link: http://www.internetwoodworking.com/w5/chair.html
Or this one: http://www.jakeschair.com/

It should lead you to Woodcraft plans. This is a neat type of Adirondack called a Jake's chair and is much more comfortable than a standard Adirondack. It has a neat history. The plans are free and the only stipulation is that you call it a Jake's chair and share the story of how it came to be. He doesn't even care if you build them to sell. He just wants the history known.


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## SnowyRiver (Nov 14, 2008)

I think a great wood for outdoor use is teak.


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## kalisha (Jul 15, 2011)

Well It isn't teak but wicker is a decent option. Yes, I know, it isn't wood in the traditional sense. But it is less expensive. And I have learned that sometimes you have to go with something in the ballpark that is less expensive. Also another option would be to get the teak furniture "nude"(unfinished) and finish it yourself with stain and protectant. It is amazing how much you can save with a little bit of do it yourself know how and of course having the time to actually do it.buttler accents


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## rance (Sep 30, 2009)

And then there is always Polywood. Any color you want and no painting.


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## MickeyGomes (Aug 21, 2012)

The best suited wood for outdoor furniture is ipe.


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## AandCstyle (Mar 21, 2012)

I would suggest white oak. It is not as hard on your tools as ipe and it very rot resistant. Check woodfinder.com to locate it in your vicinity. HTH

P.S. Completed pix are required!


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## MJCD (Nov 28, 2011)

I'm currently making an Outdoor Bench, based on the Fine Woodworking plans (Nov. 2008, I believe). This article recommends Teak, White Oak, or Jatoba. I'm using Jatoba, and have milled approximately 50 bf into approximately 30 pieces - it machines clean and square. The wood is very dense; has a 2,300 lb (vs. Teak of about 1,000) strength on the Janka Hardness Scale - it's very good wood to work. It will chew HSS blades, though - I'll need to replace my bandsaw, jointer, and planer knives when I'm finished. Jatoba does not require a finish, when used indoor or outdoor; though, everyone recommends sealing the ground-contact feet. 
The cost, in Baltimore, is $8/bf; Teak about $20; and White Oak at $5.
MJCD


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## MJCD (Nov 28, 2011)

By the way, FW has several Outdoor Furniture plans. Most are marked "Intermediate" level.
MJCD


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## addywilson (Aug 21, 2012)

It is a good wood furniture for outdoor. This is solid wood furniture and coloring becomes a bit tedious on such kind of furniture.


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## joseph000 (Nov 6, 2012)

hi dear,
One thing that you can do to get your hands on good plans for outdoor furniture is to browse through every single online option that is available to you. You can get ideas for wood projects off these online sources. To ensure that you can complete the project of your choice, make sure that you avoid taking on projects that are too difficult for your skill level. 
funique


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

Here is a link to a great set of plans for a curved back Adirondack chair.


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## Woodbum (Jan 3, 2010)

Ipe if you have loads of dough. Cypress for splinters, and white oak finished with Epifanes for durability. Redwood is in the pricey range too, but it will last a long long time, but it is fairly soft. Epifanes ia great outdoor finish, made in Holland for yachts. They have a spar varnish and a clear marine finish among others. A little pricey, but top quality reviews and excellent protection.


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## joeyinsouthaustin (Sep 22, 2012)

I have had good luck with stranded bamboo. It is very durable outside, smooth, no splinters, takes a good clear coat, and darkens with sun exposure. 
That said the "template" chair I made out of pressure treated is still the one I sit in every day.


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## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

Get the popular mechanics adirondack chair plans. Make the seat a couple inches longer and use the arms to support the back and not that 1×4 cluster f*** they use. Give it a greater recline angle and keep the front legs 6.5" from the seat to the ground. It'll be the most comfortable chair you'll sit in outside.


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## alenmics (Dec 15, 2012)

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We all have our ideas of what the "perfect" outdoor furniture setting looks like. Some enjoy a rustic outdoors woodsy look that will endure the weather with stoic indifference. Others fancy a Victorian wicker patio set that combines comfort and appearance into an attractive setting. Still others go all out for a grand weave of grace and charm that envelopes the user in a rapture of comfort. What do you consider to be the "perfect" outdoor setting? Whatever your personal preference, there's Agio outdoor furniture on the market that will fit your ideal setting. visit agio patio furnituresite to see beautiful furniture patio.


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## SteviePete (May 10, 2009)

I'm trying cypress. Radius back, seat shaped like mine, large armrests, foot/leg rest after some use of chair, fine sanding and resin oil 2-3 coats first yr -annual sealer on leg tips after that. They turn nice uniform gray. Stainless fasteners only. Mother Superior likes pads with little ties, but it is still the rounded back and bottom key to comfort. Accessorize, accessorize, accessorize. I have not had the problem with splinters-I use new growth FSC certified. ('spose I'll catch hell for that too.) I had to try various taper and radius combos to get the back right. Good Luck.

I have used WO heart for Leopold Bench. Has lasted for years - feet dipped first yr. Sapwood rots off.


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