# Tote material on Ohio Tool #7 Jointer Plane?



## BerBer5985 (Oct 10, 2011)

I'm restoring an old Ohio Tool Plane #7 jointer to use and I've got everything done but the tote that came with it is broken so I wanted to make a new one. I sanded down the front knob and it's a lighter color wood. Perhaps cherry or a lighter rosewood? Does anyone know what they used for these? I want to order some matching wood and attempt to make a tote to match. Here it is so far:

Before:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160607409149&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:1123

After:














































The front knob still needs finished and the sole will probably need lapped, but I'm waiting on sandpaper to get here.

Any suggestions on finish for the handles as well?


----------



## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

Looks great!

I think beech was commonly used on these.


----------



## BerBer5985 (Oct 10, 2011)

Beech….now that's what it looks like. I just couldn't tell out of that small knob piece. It's a fair amount darker like they stained it from the factory but after sanding, it's pretty light. I like the natural wood, so I'm going to finish it that color. What do people recommend for finish on totes? Rub on poly? Teak oil?


----------



## steviep (Feb 25, 2011)

Is that paint or japanning? Looks great by the way!


----------



## BerBer5985 (Oct 10, 2011)

It is black lacquer spray paint. I bought this thing for $30 with the intent to restore as a user. I did electrolysis (which was my first time and awesome by the way), sanded the front handle, wire brushed everything, removed all the old paint (japanning??) with lacquer thinner, painted everything but the machine surfaces after taping everything I didn't want painted off, then buffed the cap and all the screw heads on the buffer after letting soak in rust remover for about an hour. Turning out pretty nice for my first restore I think. I'd do it again. I have about 4 other stanley #5's awaiting the same treatment, but they are usable and the ohio tool wasn't in great shape when I got it, so it got priority. Blade still needs sharpened and honed and the sole and frog still needs some lapping, but overall, it's coming along nicely.


----------



## Dcase (Jul 7, 2010)

What ever it is keep in mind it was also stained some other color. So if you are trying to match the original then you may want to stain it a dark color.

Rather then messing with stain I would just use a darker colored hardwood and make a new tote and knob. Just my thoughts though..

I do agree with Charlie, Beech was common used and stained.


----------



## Dcase (Jul 7, 2010)

Just read you want to keep it natural… I have used clear Shellac on them and have been happy with the results.. The dry time is a huge + with Shellac.


----------



## BerBer5985 (Oct 10, 2011)

I have some brazillian cherry hardwood left over from a flooring job we did which I've planed down to usable stock. Would that work?? It's pretty and decently hard.


----------



## BrandonW (Apr 27, 2010)

That looks excellent. Great job on the restoration! Great score on the plane as well. Are the knob and tote the same size as those on Stanley planes? If so, you can get a rosewood handle set (used or reproduction) for a decent price.


----------



## BerBer5985 (Oct 10, 2011)

They are close in size, but not exact and they have some recessing in it where the stanley does not. I thought of that already. I just thought I'd attempt to make one. What the hell. If I can find a decent piece of material to use, I'll do it. Couldn't hurt finding some beech and making it match, but I could just do two new sets. I wish it had brass screw knobs like the stanleys have, but it doesn't. Not quite as nicely made as the stanley bailey planes I've picked up, but not horrible either. It ought to be a decent user hopefully.


----------



## BerBer5985 (Oct 10, 2011)

What about clear lacquer finish on the tote and handle?


----------



## BrandonW (Apr 27, 2010)

I think the clear lacquer finish will be fine. I generally just put a coat of boiled linseed oil on mine, but I see no reason why lacquer wouldn't work. Since its a user plane, I say make it the way you like it and stick to the natural beech finish.


----------



## BerBer5985 (Oct 10, 2011)

I finally made a tote out of leftover maple that I had from a project. Hand formed it with a rasp after cutting it all out.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

A very nice refurb, and post. You have done an excellent job.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Very nice indeed! Glad to see this old jointer get a second chance at life.


----------



## Dcase (Jul 7, 2010)

You picked a tough wood to shape by hand but it turned out really nice… Looks lot better then my first few attempts at making a tote.


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

nicely done.


----------



## jaxonquad (Apr 20, 2011)

An inspiration!


----------



## DallasBentley (Apr 13, 2010)

Great job. I don't have much experience with rasping, but I'm finding myself reaching for an invisible one off the shelf now that I'm shaping more.

I have two broken totes and some maple. You've inspired me to give it a shot.


----------



## BerBer5985 (Oct 10, 2011)

Thanks for all the kind words. This was not as hard as I thought. I hand formed it with a set of Nicholson rasp chisels that my dad left here when moved to fl. I don't think they are anything fantastic but they did the job. Took about 2 hours total. Not too bad. I took my time with it.


----------



## bobasaurus (Sep 6, 2009)

Great. I'm bidding on the same plane right now. Great job with the restoration… the original looked pretty horrible.


----------

