# Woodpeckers Coping Sled - easy to use, but could use a few tweaks



## RichT

Great review. I chose another brand over Woodpeckers for a small sled because their web site lacked the information I was looking for. Your review cleared it all up. I'm still happy with the choice I made, but you've convinced me that Woodpeckers would have been a great choice too.

For the interior door rails I make, I made my own sled. I couldn't find anything even close to what I needed to handle that thickness of lumber.


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## MrMongo

Thanks for the great review. I just got one of these sleds as a Christmas present, so you timing was great. I like the idea of adding the extra clamp for the sacrificial board.


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## OggieOglethorpe

I use a strip of double sided tape to hold the backer in place…

No more futzing! It would be nice if the manufacturer had provided a method to hold the backer, like a grip strip, screw holes…


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## EarlS

The quality and ease-of-use of everything I've ordered from Woodpeckers has been a step above what you get from the big retailers like Rockler.


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## skinflint

It is a well built and designed coping sled, but I have rail/stile bits that require no adjustment when switching between them. Using the sled now requires a 3/8" adjustment to account for the sled base. I view this as a drawback. Are there similar concerns and has someone developed a fast and precise set-up adjustment to account for that difference?


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## RichT

> It is a well built and designed coping sled, but I have rail/stile bits that require no adjustment when switching between them. Using the sled now requires a 3/8" adjustment to account for the sled base. I view this as a drawback. Are there similar concerns and has someone developed a fast and precise set-up adjustment to account for that difference?
> 
> - Steven Perkins


Since you mention base thickness, I assume you're referring to a bit set that doesn't require any height adjustment when switching. How does that work, or did I misunderstand something?


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## skinflint

Sommerfeld Tools makes matching router bit sets for rail/stile and panels. When I say matching, they have engineered the shaft length for each bit to eliminate repeated test cuts and fine-tuning adjustments. Use the rubber grommet and drop the bit in the collet and it perfectly aligns. I have a Sommerfeld shaker panel set and another brand. The latter requires those repeated trial adjustments. With the WP coping sled the object of the Sommerfeld matching set is defeated.


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## RichT

> Sommerfeld Tools makes matching router bit sets for rail/stile and panels.


I wasn't familiar with those. I assume there's no way to adjust the cope bit so it drops in higher to account for the sled.

Like I said in my post back in December, I have a different brand sled. What I do with all of my bits - after getting them adjusted with test cuts - is measure from the router table top to the top of the bit (usually the screw, or a repeatable and accessible point on the bit) with a digital height gauge to record the proper setup. I write that down and store it with the bit set. I still do a test cut to be sure, but it never requires adjustment.

I do the same thing with things like round over bits. For locked miter bits I came up with a simple formula based on the board thickness for the bit height and cut depth in front of the fence. Again, I still do test cuts, but it's always right the first time.


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## Mike_D_S

Steven,

I use UHMW plastic set up blocks that I make once I dial in a setup. I make them from the UHMW sheet like you get at Woodcraft. When I get a new bit set, I'll cut a square about 3×3 from the plastic. Then I get the bits set up correctly one time for say 3/4 stock and cut the profile of each bit on one side of the square.

Later, I use the squares to do the initial bit height setting and typically they will be dead on or require only a very slight tweak. I'll either put two sets on the opposite sides of the square or for slot cutters, I may have different stock thickness on each side.

But to answer your question about the WP coping sled, you could make up a small 3/8" spacer from a dowel to drop in under the grommet for the rail coping cuts. This way you get to keep the self positioning system but still use the WP sled.

Mike


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## Mike_D_S

I was typing when Rich sent his reply, but I also like his idea of just doing the measurement directly. If you were to pick up the iGaging snap check router height gauge you could pretty easy solve the problem that way by adding the thickness of the sled base to the normal height.

And here I thought my setup block solution was so slick…....


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