# Small Pedestal Table - How do I Attach Legs to the Single Post?



## docspencer (Jan 27, 2013)

I'm building a small (15" X 24") oval table with a single post attached at the bottom to the top and with 4 legs (feet?) at the bottom. I am having trouble coming up with good ideas about how to attach the legs to the post. Just FYI - I have some skills but am not a master by any stretch and my available tools include table saw, radial arm saw, and router/table so I probably won't be able to do any fancy joinery. Any ideas folks???


----------



## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

If you have a router table, you can dovetail the legs into the post.


----------



## conifur (Apr 1, 2015)

Dowels or M&T joint


----------



## docspencer (Jan 27, 2013)

Thanks for the responses. I'm having trouble visualizing a dovetail on this - can you direct me to a picture or drawing? I had considered a M&T but I'm worried that with 4 of these I'm not leaving enough post for strength. Am I wrong on this? Dowels might work out well.


----------



## maverik (Dec 30, 2015)

I agree with conifer, M&T is what I would use, with out a self centering doweling jig getting the holes to line up will be tricky, don't worry about strength, after the tennons are glued in the post will be plenty strong, good luck and post a pic when your done.


----------



## conifur (Apr 1, 2015)

A sliding









dovetail looks like this


----------



## docspencer (Jan 27, 2013)

Gotcha. Thanks for the pic. For either the dovetail or the M&T, would it help if the feet are taller - more glue surface?


----------



## conifur (Apr 1, 2015)

To a point, a pic of your project would be a big help.


----------



## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

Here are a couple of ideas based on a 2" round or square pedestal. One shows the use of dovetails and the other shows a plain mortise and tenon joint. Glue will hold the legs securely; no need for screws or nails.


----------



## devann (Jan 11, 2011)

I ran into a similar dilemma wihen I built a small hexagon shaped table but didn't want to make it a three leg table. I chose the same option you have.









Here's what it looked like;

The legs are 1.5" thick, but where they meet the 4×4 center post I reduced the thickness to 1.125". This gives you a shoulder to butt up against the center post The two boards making the legs are notched at the center so they are flush with one another making them a single assembly. This was then installed onto the center post which is notched 1.125" to accept the leg assembly. I then drilled the center and installed a 1/4' x 6'" lag screw through the center of the legs into the center post.

btw, the whole thing is glued together too. Another tip; I sometimes will use T-nuts with small carriage bolts if I can't find a suitable size adjustable foot for my legs. It's better than a book of matches.

No fancy joinery required.


----------



## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

Perhaps you can adapt this into you design. ALL YOU NEED IS A TABLE SAW AND A DADO BLADE






Turn the sound off the music stinks.


----------



## docspencer (Jan 27, 2013)

Again, thanks for all the helpful input. I just did a mock-up of an idea for the feet out of pine and taped them to the post. The top is just laying on the post to see what it all looks like. I plan to join the feet by M&T. Will need to cut post to proper height. Not sure what I think but it's an idea.




























It's much taller than it will be at the end but I wanted to post what I have to this point.


----------



## docspencer (Jan 27, 2013)

Found some time this week to work on the table. For the feet I decided to try the Korean joinery technique AlaskaGuy suggested just for the experience. Assembled the whole thing and put on 3 coats of Watco natural. Again, thanks for all the suggestions along the way. Once finished I just have to decide that I will do with it.


----------

