# Through Dovetails on Veneered Board



## nalij (Apr 21, 2015)

So perhaps a silly question, but, I figured I would ask anyway…..

I want to make a small box for the wife, I have a bunch of burl veneer (1/32") that I want to play with. I am thinking of veneering some to 1/4" stock (cherry, walnut or beechnut). My question is…Would I get a bunch of tearout if I tried to do through dovetails (by hand) on such a board?

From what I have read most of the tearout occurs on the backside, which in my case would be the solid hardwood - so I dont think that should be an issue.

I am just concerned that the veneered front may not handle this so well since it's burl (notorious for cracking, etc.) and it's a very thin veneer to begin with. Furthermore, marking the front with a scribe line cannot be sanded out (due to how thin it is) and there will be no ability to plane the front down, again due to the veneer already being attached.

Any thoughts or experience from the masters?

Perhaps I should just miter the sides and call it a day.


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## JAAune (Jan 22, 2012)

It's doable. The nature of the project means you need to get almost everything fit perfectly because mistakes will be harder to correct.


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## punkin611 (Feb 24, 2016)

you might try cutting dovetails with a fine tooth pull saw. One thing for sure is to veneer BOTH SIDES of what your veneering. I veneer all the time, hope you use hot hide glue its an old school method and a lot of fun.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

A hard setting glue will certainly help. My preference is HHG as mentioned above but urea formaldehyde will work as well if not as easily. With care you should be able to do it just fine. 
One thing you might try is cutting the dovetails first and then veneering the parts. Veneer each whole piece and then cut away the gaps with a scalpel.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

How about using tape?


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## YusukeHeller (Sep 13, 2016)

http://www.rockler.com/how-to/building-shop-made-table-dovetail-sled-jig/


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