# Drawer Joint



## Rich1955 (Jan 26, 2020)

I've had this antique dresser for about 30 years and I never seen a drawer joint like this. The dresser dates back to
the late 1800's. Can anyone tell what type of joint this is and how it was made? The wood looks like it has shrunk a little and the joint has some gaps but the drawer is still very solid.


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## Firewood (Dec 4, 2013)

It's a lock-rabbet drawer joint. You can see the modern version here. How old do you think the dresser is?


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## Rich1955 (Jan 26, 2020)

> It s a lock-rabbet drawer joint. You can see the modern version here. How old do you think the dresser is?
> 
> - Firewood


I was told by a antique dealer, it from about the late 1800's. I got this piece at a house sale.
I use the modern version like the link you sent on all my shop cabinets, but this one has that extra tongue on the drawer front.


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## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

thats a great joint even better than the one firewood showed,it locks the side to the face and the face to the side so it can never come apart.as you state even though the wood has shrunk it's still holds together.i may have to start using that.thanks for sharing this.


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## SMP (Aug 29, 2018)

Its interesting they didn't just use the lock joint on the drawer front. Unless they just had piles of 1/2" or whatever and didn't want to plane to 3/4? Not sure the point really. I mean I have added solid wood fronts to plywood drawers, but not solid wood drawers. Strange.


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

Follow up to "Firewood's post,


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## Rich1955 (Jan 26, 2020)

> Follow up to "Firewood s post,
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I use that joint for all my shop cabinets, but this joint has a tongue in the front face. Why, I don't know. Just looking for a historical reference for this joint.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

I'm guessing the front groove is to help secure the side in place.


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## jeffswood (Aug 17, 2011)

Cool joint and find. You got the details on it.

This is a total aside, but my wife laughs at me as when I see an old piece of furniture I have to pull out the draw and otherwise try inspect the joinery.

I have been to plenty of museums to admire historic furniture, but I am always disappointed that they never seem to show off the joinery. My obsessions goes far enough that I contacted one of the curators at the Victor and Albert on one trip to see I could access to some of the furniture to open doors and drawers. To my surprise they did arrange a private tour and and a chance to inspect some of the pieces closely. Same thing at the Rennie Mackintosh museum in Glasgow. I will make sure to call in advance in the future for other museum visits as the those the curate these pieces seem to enjoy an enthusiast reaching out as it does not happen often.

Another woodworker I know actually called in advance and was given the chance to measure and make detailed plans of a Mackintosh chair


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## CWWoodworking (Nov 28, 2017)

Why is the drawer bottom white?

The front joint is usually done with a dovetail. Much stronger that way. There was a modern company in Indiana that used to do it like that but they went out of business about 10 years ago.


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## RobS888 (May 7, 2013)

Is the front piece 2 pieces or 1 piece with a rabbit around it? if it is 2 pieces the forward tongue could be to align and help hold the front on.


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## Rich1955 (Jan 26, 2020)

> Why is the drawer bottom white?
> 
> The front joint is usually done with a dovetail. Much stronger that way. There was a modern company in Indiana that used to do it like that but they went out of business about 10 years ago.
> 
> - CWWoodworking


The bottom is not white, I put a piece of paper there to show off the joint better.


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## Rich1955 (Jan 26, 2020)

> Is the front piece 2 pieces or 1 piece with a rabbit around it? if it is 2 pieces the forward tongue could be to align and help hold the front on.
> 
> - RobS888


The front is one piece, for whatever reason there is a slight step, but only at the top, not the bottom.


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## LeeRoyMan (Feb 23, 2019)

> Why is the drawer bottom white?
> 
> The front joint is usually done with a dovetail. Much stronger that way. There was a modern company in Indiana that used to do it like that but they went out of business about 10 years ago.
> 
> - CWWoodworking


Maybe because the front is flush with the side.


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## Bill_Steele (Aug 29, 2013)

To assemble the drawer it looks like you would have to slide the two parts together. It also seems like maybe glue would not be needed.


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## HerringImpaired (Mar 13, 2019)

We played with this joint in High School just for fun, and I've used it once since. Not too bad to cut, it's all in the setup. Sliding dovetail is probably just as strong and easier to setup.


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## LeeRoyMan (Feb 23, 2019)

> Sliding dovetail is probably just as strong and easier to setup.
> 
> - HerringImpaired


With the sides flush, I just can't picture how well it would work. (unless the tail was really small)
Can you draw it for me?


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## HerringImpaired (Mar 13, 2019)

Similar to this. I've used this also, but not on flush sides, the front would hang out far enough to cover the slides when closed. A smaller/shorter dovetail would probably be better.


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## Rich1955 (Jan 26, 2020)

> We played with this joint in High School just for fun, and I ve used it once since. Not too bad to cut, it s all in the setup. Sliding dovetail is probably just as strong and easier to setup.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Did they ever tell you the purpose of doing it this way?


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## HerringImpaired (Mar 13, 2019)

> Did they ever tell you the purpose of doing it this way?
> 
> - Rich1955


They might have, but it's been far too many years ago. With a joint like that or the sliding dovetail, you could theoretically build the drawer without glue. A screw or two to hold the panel in place would hold the drawer together.


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## Rich1955 (Jan 26, 2020)

> Did they ever tell you the purpose of doing it this way?
> 
> - Rich1955
> Thanks
> ...


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## AndyJ1s (Jan 26, 2019)

With the OP's joint, or sliding dovetails, at the back (presumably in the sides, rather than the drawer back), then the drawer bottom. in a dado in the drawer front, could secure the front sliding dovetail, and a rabbet on the back could secure the bottom. Gravity (and the cabinet itself) would secure the back piece. No glue and no fasteners!

... unless the drawer bottom was a glue-up, or plywood. Loose tongue and groove, or ship-lap, for the drawer bottom?


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