# First Project With the New Powermatic Table Saw



## psient (Jan 25, 2012)

*The Ultimate Work Table*

I have decided for my first project, I'll do Allan Little's work table. I will make some changes and some additions but basically it'll be the same thing.

Better start a photo log too. I'll go into my little shop and take some pix of what it looks like now.


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## psient (Jan 25, 2012)

psient said:


> *The Ultimate Work Table*
> 
> I have decided for my first project, I'll do Allan Little's work table. I will make some changes and some additions but basically it'll be the same thing.
> 
> Better start a photo log too. I'll go into my little shop and take some pix of what it looks like now.


delete


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## DKV (Jul 18, 2011)

psient said:


> *The Ultimate Work Table*
> 
> I have decided for my first project, I'll do Allan Little's work table. I will make some changes and some additions but basically it'll be the same thing.
> 
> Better start a photo log too. I'll go into my little shop and take some pix of what it looks like now.


I plan on building this table. How is yours coming along?
Don


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## psient (Jan 25, 2012)

psient said:


> *The Ultimate Work Table*
> 
> I have decided for my first project, I'll do Allan Little's work table. I will make some changes and some additions but basically it'll be the same thing.
> 
> Better start a photo log too. I'll go into my little shop and take some pix of what it looks like now.


Hi DKV:

I'm just completing the mobile base for my table saw.


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## psient (Jan 25, 2012)

*Scaring up some material at the local supply house.*

I just was notified that my table saw was shipped. I also took delivery of my rotary phase converter. I won't be able to start the project until I have my table saw set up.

Today I'll go to my local hardwood supplier and make the decision about what species to use for the WT's construction. I hope I can find some 16/4 hardwood and a piece of plywood along with a remnant sheet of laminate for the table top.

I need some 2 X 12 stretchers. Allen uses doug fir on his. I hope to find a species of hardwood in serious dimension ( 8/4 X 40/4) but that may be a wet-dream. If not I'll select fir 2-2X12s.

Once I start drawing up the plans I'll look for material dedicated to shelving and drawers. I can use poplar for the large drawers and unless there's something else that strikes my fancy that is my choice.


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## psient (Jan 25, 2012)

*Powermatic Delivered today*

I took delivery of the Powermatic. The fence rails seem to be the heaviest box in the group. I need to set-up my rotary phase converter this coming week. I'll to get the necessary hardware tomorrow. The PM will need it's own circuit according to the manual. I'll have to call the RPC people and find if I can install the breaker inside the dedicated 3phase mounting. As the RPC is 20 HP I'll not have any problem with the 7.5 hp saw motor.

I'll need to make the saw mobile as my shop is too small. The answer for me will be to fabricate a leveling base. I tried to synchronize my leveler order with the delivery of my table saw. What I did was order my leveler's about 10 days ago thinking that'd give me time to get the casters and be ready when the table saw arrived.

I bought some leveling casters from Cleveland Caster. Cleveland caster took my order charged my card and didn't ship the order. I called them to find out what happened yesterday and they didn't have anything. They said they'd call me which of course they didn't. I called early this morning and complained mightily. I was sent an email that they went out today. No apology, no effort to amend their neglect. I won't use these guys again.

Check out my review on resellerratings.com.

Back to work.


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## psient (Jan 25, 2012)

*Caster and pre assembly note*

I am ready to finish the mobile base for the new table saw. I have the saw platform completed as well as the caster mounting plates. Initially I was going to install casters relying on a large thumbwheel for leveling.










After consideration I changed to a design that uses a built-in ratchet to raise and lower the leveling foot.










Final assembly relies upon getting my new welder up and running. I'll be getting the gas today. After that, it's a matter of attaching the caster mounts to the risers. The caster/riser assembly then is welded to the saw platform.


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## psient (Jan 25, 2012)

*Rotary Phase Converter Installed*

The 3 phase panel and rotary phase converter are now installed.










It took me 2 weeks to get the panel wired. Note the fuse block for the Table Saw's circuit. This was a slight hassle as the supplier sent me the wrong block and fuses. They straightened it out and the part arrived today.










The hardest part of the whole installation was dealing with the 240v single phase wire feeding the RPC: #4 AWG. I don't know why you can't see that part of the panel. You can when you view the shot in photobucket but when uploaded here it cuts of the right-hand side of the photo.

The three phase wiring is all #6 AWG. I will use the distribution block for the 240v single phase to run a plug on this wall. The welder will use that plug. I'll use a 50 amp breaker. Tapping off the 60 amp line used for the RPC is allowed however, it cannot be used while the RPC is being used. That is I cannot use that circuit to weld on when I am working at the Table Saw. No problem.


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## canadianchips (Mar 12, 2010)

psient said:


> *Rotary Phase Converter Installed*
> 
> The 3 phase panel and rotary phase converter are now installed.
> 
> ...


I'm interested ! What are the advantages of using this type of phase converter ? Is this specific to only that table saw or can you run other 3 phase machines (even if it is one at a time) with it ? The phase converter my uncle had to run his seed mill was only for his mill. I don't recal him having another motor running to drive the convertor.


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## Gpops (Dec 20, 2008)

psient said:


> *Rotary Phase Converter Installed*
> 
> The 3 phase panel and rotary phase converter are now installed.
> 
> ...


Nothing negative, Just a safety note from an old time retired electrician. Your single phase 220 volt distribution block shouldn't be marked with white tape. White tape indicates a neutral wire not a hot wire. Those are the two hot phases of the 220 volt single phase system. Just don't want anybody to get hurt thinking it is a 110 volt single phase circuit. I would fuse the output of the phase converter to the amperage rating of the saw if it is smaller than the max output of the phase converter to protect the saw. Let us know how well the saw works as I am always coming across old three phase power tools for cheap. Don


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

psient said:


> *Rotary Phase Converter Installed*
> 
> The 3 phase panel and rotary phase converter are now installed.
> 
> ...


It should work great! I have wired a few of those. They preform better than the electronic versions, especially starting loaded motors such as compressors or pumps. You can run any type 3 phase load off of it.


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## psient (Jan 25, 2012)

psient said:


> *Rotary Phase Converter Installed*
> 
> The 3 phase panel and rotary phase converter are now installed.
> 
> ...


HI All:

Thanks for your comments. I look forward to hearing more from you guys as the project moves forward.

The illustration is of the shop's sub -sub-panel. I wired and designed the panel in this picture relying on close communication with both Powermatic and American Rotary.

CanadianChips:

I am NOT an electrician and am reporting what I've been told 2nd hand. American Rotary provides a balanced, CNC ready, softstart design here.

The motor in the picture iis an idler only and mitigates a massive influx of current upon 3phase power start-up. Thus starting the phase converter won't cause a massive surge to my single phase power at the Main Panel that feeds the house. I think it also prevents my neighbors from experiencing a drain on theirs. The size of the converter is 20 HP and provides power up to and including any 10HP machine. I can run anything 3 phase from this equipment if I am mindful of the OVERALL load.

Gpops:

I copied the wiring coding of my shop's sub panel wired by a licensed electrician. The shop's sub panel is ONLY 240v; no 120 circuits at all. All of my shop's 120v circuits are fed from the property's Main Panel and are wall receptacle. I am not sure I understand what your safety suggestion is. The panel in the photo is wired correctly for 220 and the coding is correct as such, isn't it? Is there an appropriate code that will discriminate between 220 and 120 Single Phase. Should I place a label in the sub-sub-panel that states 240v only?

The saw has a dedicated 30 amp fused circuit as per Powermatic's instructions. In addition, the 240 single phase tapped from the sub-sub-panel's input via the distribution block has a 50 amp circuit breaker of its own. I can use this breaker as a disconnect if I am running the saw so there is no accidental drain on the saw's circuit from another source.

Thus using this scheme, I have a 50 amp 240v single phase circuit in the RPC's sub-sub-panel for my new ESAB welder (not shown in the photo). Positioning a 240 single phase receptacle on the shop's wall shown in the photo allows me to access the welder and its controls without having to turn around from my welding table. After discussions with American Rotary we agreed that as long as I was mindful of running the welder when the table saw was not being used, there is no hazard.

Just some details. The RPC's circuit is a breakered 60 amps using #4 wire running the 23 feet from the shop's sub panel to the RPC's sub-sub-panel. The 3 phase circuit uses #6 wire. I'll also use #6 for my 240 single phase run to the welder's plug.

TopamaxSurvivor:

I run my Bridgie from another RPC (5hp). The company that manufactured this RPC (American Rotary) has always been a strong supporter of any issues, questions, design features I have had. This is why I chose them for the larger converter.

***

I'm wiring the welder's receptacle this morning. After that I'll weld up the caster mounts. Then I'll weld them to the table saw's mobile base. Next I'll hoist the saw from its pallet to the base. Given that everything is accomplished today, the saw will be up and running tomorrow.

Of course there is always Mr. Murphy lurking somewhere in the shop.

Jon


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## Gpops (Dec 20, 2008)

psient said:


> *Rotary Phase Converter Installed*
> 
> The 3 phase panel and rotary phase converter are now installed.
> 
> ...


My safety concern was that the white tape indicates that the circuit is a 110 volt circuit not the 220 volt single phase it is. White tape indicates a neutral not a hot. just a heads up for maybe anyone else looking to wiring something. Don't want anyone getting hurt. You could mark the two phases black and red if you wish to identify them as hot. just not Green or white. Small issue the unit is wired correctly just labeled wrong. Oh brother, I am sounding like the Grammar police for electrical:0) Not intended. Don


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

psient said:


> *Rotary Phase Converter Installed*
> 
> The 3 phase panel and rotary phase converter are now installed.
> 
> ...


Murphy won't bother you if he doesn't get into his law enforcement mode ;-))


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## psient (Jan 25, 2012)

psient said:


> *Rotary Phase Converter Installed*
> 
> The 3 phase panel and rotary phase converter are now installed.
> 
> ...


Gpops:

I see. I will re-mark the white with red. Thanks for informing me. I will also note the deviation from convention with a placard inside the panel.

I welded the caster mounts yesterday. Today I'll weld the mounts to the base and also the gussets. I'll hopefully get to the saw later this week.


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## psient (Jan 25, 2012)

*Mobile base tested*

After gusseting, I put the ratcheting casters on the mobile base for the Table Saw. I stood on the base and it did flex when all my weight was focused mid-span. However, with the weight distributed there will be no problem.

I am not happy with the configuration of the casters. I have decided the thumb-screw is a better deal so I'll use the ratcheting casters for another project.

I'll complete the welds on the base today and take a photo so ya'll can look at it and give me feedback. I am debating on whether to buy a sand blasting outfit at HF or just wire-brush it best as I can and let it go at that for painting. Maybe I'll get to the point of slinging the saw onto the base today. It depends upon how much time I have.

Yesterday I learned something about my welder:

First, you have to really fuss with the settings when you are new to this machine. Because it has no digital display for amps and wire feed, only volts and amps, the tutorials on You-Tube are not all that clarifying beyond the obvious. Second, if you loop the wire feed-line to the gun a couple of times the, wire will not feed continuously. Day before yesterday I had looked at the wire feeding rate and to my surprise, the gun wouldn't feed when under resistance. After some adjustments it worked. Then yesterday it happened again. That's when the light went off and I understood it was the loops in the feed-line. I'm still making stupid mistakes like forgetting to turn on the gas before I start welding.

All this learning is making for some aggressive grinding on this base. Nobody told me that welding was such a grime producing enterprise. Yesterday my wife dubbed me the 'chimney sweep' because of the grinding soot on my face and body.


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## psient (Jan 25, 2012)

*Mobile base is painted and finished*

The mobile base has been painted and cured. I neglected to post a pix of the base prior to painting as I had no time. Here is the photo.










Today after installing the casters, I'll hoist the saw onto the base for a test fit. If all is well I'll be on to assembling the saw-proper- extension wings, fence rails, switch wiring, cord and the side extension table. Next might be designing a mobile base for the side extension table.

I don't like the idea of a fixed extension table too much because of the space it takes. A collapsible assembly seems best for my situation. IN the end, I may use ball transfers for all the necessary extensions (i.e. side, infeed, and outfeed) rather than units resembling the laminate table shipped with the saw. Placing swing-down arms with transfers will allow me to dispense with permanent tables; the only pieces remaining extended being the fence rails.

I'm not sure about this as I contemplate what to do about my limited shop space and the volume taken up by the table saw's installation/storage. IT'll definitely be a challenge to efficiently design the shop layout as the table saw cannot obstruct my machining and everyday inside tools. For instance, I have a sliding compound miter saw that will need to be installed on the periphery of the shop along with its table, and I still have to account for a 17" bandsaw and 12" jointer. I think my shop is going to resemble a car lot when I have everything inside! Someday I'll put up a for-real shop out back on my property . . . . someday . . .


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## crashn (Aug 26, 2011)

psient said:


> *Mobile base is painted and finished*
> 
> The mobile base has been painted and cured. I neglected to post a pix of the base prior to painting as I had no time. Here is the photo.
> 
> ...


Nice, I had been trying to picture what it would look like, but now I know. Great job! Did you end up with a HF sandblaster, or just leave it be?


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## psient (Jan 25, 2012)

psient said:


> *Mobile base is painted and finished*
> 
> The mobile base has been painted and cured. I neglected to post a pix of the base prior to painting as I had no time. Here is the photo.
> 
> ...


Hi Crashn:

No I didn't buy a sandblaster. I decided that the condition of the steel was sufficient to sustain paint for the life of the saw. I think the cost of the unit from HF is low enough that as a shop purchase, it'd come in handy being an extra tool. However, I don't have time to fuss with another object until I'm done messin' with setting up the wood shop.


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## psient (Jan 25, 2012)

*Powermatic 3000 set-up on mobile base*

This saw is 7.5hp 3-phase with a 14 inch blade capacity.

Here's the final product; base and saw. I now need to assemble the saw and buy a blade for it. Next is to test it on the RPC. After that I can start arranging the shop. Once I have sufficient room for the table I will begin building it.

I'll also make a bandsaw and jointer selection concomitant with the table-build. I'll buy a grizzly bandsaw I think. As for the jointer, I don't know yet.

I can construct low-boy bases for any of my tools with confidence after completing the saw's base. What I need most in connection with this type of work is practice welding. I've only had the welder for a few days and mainly just began to make sense of the processes for the last two. The base is very sturdy and well built but the welds are novice and overdone. You Tube is a help but practice is the key. I need a source for a bunch of useless metal to waste.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

psient said:


> *Powermatic 3000 set-up on mobile base*
> 
> This saw is 7.5hp 3-phase with a 14 inch blade capacity.
> 
> ...


What an impressive piece of equipment. It looks like you did a good job on that base. I hope you have a safe place to do that welding. I've wanted to learn welding for a long time, but I don't dare because I have to work indoors most of the time because of the wet weather here, and I'm afraid of burning the place down. I hope you get a lot of enjoyment out of that fantastic saw.


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## psient (Jan 25, 2012)

psient said:


> *Powermatic 3000 set-up on mobile base*
> 
> This saw is 7.5hp 3-phase with a 14 inch blade capacity.
> 
> ...


Stefang:

Tusen takk. I appreciate your support! It's a fairly powerful saw for a small hobby shop but I can accurately and safely cut anything. A big hassle getting everything organized and built though!!

I'm a little confused about your reticence when it comes to hobby welding? Maybe your situation is unique.

Imagine that you had a small space (about 4 X 5 meters) bare with a steel table, tile or concrete floor, 4 walls, and electricity-that's what I have for a welding area. The walls are wood framed covered with gypsum board, an open wood ceiling, wooden doors, and no windows. I can open a door to the outside if I need to increase ventilation.

If you had a similar room with electricity, you could weld all day without suffering any negative consequences. There's no risk of wildly chaotic cinders or heat. The sparks aren't sufficient to ignite anything closer than 1 foot away and even then it's unlikely if using a small steel table (120 cm square) to weld on. Unless you are consciously trying to start a fire it's actually difficult to generate a dangerous situation given that you act like a mature and responsible adult male.

You probably know this:

Today's wire-welders/MIG machines are inexpensive, well designed, simple to use, and effectively fool-proof . . . unless you are committed to making gross errors in judgment. I safely learned by watching You Tube.

You don't need the higher voltages, large ventilated enclosures, or isolated fire proofed open spaces. If you have a durable steel table and don't weld around flammable liquids you can achieve a good level of safety and have fantastic results!!!! My biggest threat is forgetting to put on gloves when I grind down welds or prep steel. I've skinned my knuckles many times and the scuffs are always at risk for infection. I have to stop what I am doing, clean up, bandage them with antibiotic, and then put on gloves before I can continue-and it hurts! Aside from that I don't recall any hazard or an incident (knock on wood!).

If I can be so bold please, Continue to think about welding, no need for bias or fear.

Jon in SoCal


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

psient said:


> *Powermatic 3000 set-up on mobile base*
> 
> This saw is 7.5hp 3-phase with a 14 inch blade capacity.
> 
> ...


Man! That is a lot of saw. I'm an amateur welder myself. I took a class at a local community college. It was something like $50 and the metal was unlimited. They let me buy a lot of nice metal for almost nothing and gave me a lot to take home for free. I'm not sure the class helped but I agree with you, the modern machines are pretty safe. In my job, however, I see a lot of industrial welding deaths. It's usually someone with a damaged wire coiled up on themselves, holding rods in their mouth, etc. If you own a table saw, you've probably got the safety sense to stay safe welding. But yes, it takes practice! My welds are still like fat caterpillars


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

psient said:


> *Powermatic 3000 set-up on mobile base*
> 
> This saw is 7.5hp 3-phase with a 14 inch blade capacity.
> 
> ...


Hi Jon. My whole shop is only 22m2. I could actually use my garage which would be safe enough. I think the main problem at my age is buying the equipment and making the effort to learn a skill that would be seldom used. I would have been more willing to make the investment and effort a few years ago though. I assume from your name that you have a Norwegian background. Is that right?

Powermatic makes some great woodworking machines. I sure would like to have one of their lathes or anything else they sell for that matter.


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## psient (Jan 25, 2012)

psient said:


> *Powermatic 3000 set-up on mobile base*
> 
> This saw is 7.5hp 3-phase with a 14 inch blade capacity.
> 
> ...


Sterfang:

I think that 6X10 isn't too small to set up a mig and table. If you can't afford it then that's a whole different discussion.

Bertha:

Yes practice is key.


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## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

psient said:


> *Powermatic 3000 set-up on mobile base*
> 
> This saw is 7.5hp 3-phase with a 14 inch blade capacity.
> 
> ...


Great job on the base!

That saw is impressive!

Lee


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## psient (Jan 25, 2012)

*Extension Table*

I have the saw assembled. I will go to Home Depot or Lowes and pick up a saw blade to complete the installation of the riving knife and guard. I'll also need to pick up a plug and receptacle for the extension cord. After that the saw will be usable. I won't have dust collection. I can manually vac out what collects with my shop vac until I have something more appropriate. I can then start building Allan's saw horses for my work table.

I am reticent to affix a solid table/wing on the right of the saw. I'll build a version of Allan's work table that doubles as the saw's extension table. Thus, extending the right side of the saw will be the real first issue I tackle. I can fabricate a replacement for the solid extension table that shipped with the saw utilizing saw horses able to adjust for the height of the saw table. The horses can be stored when not in use or as a table, used somewhere else when the saw is idle.

I need to start thinking about cutting plywood sheets. I am going to fabricate a small weight supporting bracket that can mount to the bolt on the saw base specifically for a plywood/panel cutting extension. The base bracket will have a load bearing adjustable foot to carry whatever is mounted there.

I will have to emulate a sliding table saw to some extent. I have seen similar solutions that are for sale serving as a guide for my personal design. I have no interest in building extension tables for others but need something that will accommodate cutting plywood when I have to. The right side plywood extension itself will be a number of transverse members and their mounting. The load bearing members of the transverse array will have a number of parallel tracks comprised of pressure transfers on strips. The assembly will elevate/swing into place for cutting plywood. When not in use it can collapse and/or hang on the wall. I'm thinking that square tubing is a good material for this fabrication. If I had more experience welding aluminum I'd use that. However, at this time using aluminum is out of my reach. Once I hone this design I'll utilize it for infeed/outfeed tables as well.

It is important for me to add one other thing, the idea for a motion extension wing is the result of searching for solutions on You Tube. That is to say, there are similar assemblies for sale commercially and I acknowledge and am explicitly grateful to one in particular for illustrating the basic concept. I don't mention the name here as that information is irrelevant to my project. However, if you take the time to PM me I'll be happy to send you in the direction of this piece of equipment; it seems well made and thought-out and reasonably priced. I believe this statement provides a way of thanking that design/designer's work giving me my inspiration. If you don't want to bother me over simple curiosity, a quick search of extension tables on You Tube will reveal such designs.

In summing up:

I need to get a saw blade and assemble the guard and riving knife; after installation I can use the saw. I will first build some saw horses to replace the right-side solid extension table that shipped with the powermatic. Next, for cutting plywood I'll fabricate a use-specific extension likened to the slide on a sliding table saw but simpler and removable. My thinking is a testimony to others that have gone before me; I stand on the shoulders of giants.


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## psient (Jan 25, 2012)

*Powermatic PM 3000 installed*

The powermatic is up and running. I finished the cord make-up yesterday.

This morning at 8:39 PST I started it. The motor rotated in the wrong direction. I thought this was odd as I labeled consistent with the RPC (black to black, red to red, etc.). No problem I reversed the output black and red at the RPC. After that, everything worked as it should. No real noticeable vibrations of any kind just the noise of the motor and air rushing past the blade.

I checked the squareness of the blade to the miter slot and it is too close to detect a difference; so probably less than a thou. I could put a dial indicator on it but figure what for? If I can't tell then it's close enough. I still have to put on the riving blade and the guard. I will start by using the guard until I become familiar with the saw. It's easy to remove if I have to. As a hobbyist placing it on and off is not a real concern.

The blade I installed is a economy DeWalt 12" . I don't think it is the best blade for running material but it will be fine to do the beginning work. This means I can begin the work table.


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## psient (Jan 25, 2012)

*Saw installation procedure and use critique as of this point*

I have now completed the installation of all parts I need to start Allan's workshop table.

In this process I have discovered a couple of things about the PM3000.

The guard works very well. There is an anti kick-back pawl and riving knife that are both effective and extremely easy to manipulate.

The saw is extremely powerful. I received a lot of criticism on my thread about buying the saw due to its power and size exceeding the group norms established for hobby shop utility. Although I understand the opinions of those that responded (almost exclusively insistent on not buying this large a saw rather than a 3hp 10") my decision is an endorsement of each shop owner critically evaluating the suggestions of others who respond to them on these forums.

I made the correct decision and those that were posting and representing themselves as carefully scrutinizing this saw to help with my purchasing decision may have had very little experience with it or one equivalent to this model. Ripping 4X8 sheets of thin material is easier due to the blade size. Ripping and cross-cutting large stock is simple, efficient, and (due to the saw's size) safe.

Blades are not costly. The range of prices have run from 18 $US to 99 $US with teeth ranges from 54 to 120. Blades are very available with a 10 minute web search revealing many reputable providers. Freud makes a 12" dado-king set with 4 toothed chippers for 350 $US. I picked one up.

The prescribed technique for mounting the rails and the fence are stupid as if set out by a staff of **************************************************. The mounting procedure is sooo poorly understood by those who wrote the manual.

The side extension table is a total failure of quality control and in-house production standards. It is remarkable to me that the table is such a piece of sh!t. Powermatic has managed to destroy any and all forms of craftsmanship or professionalism; the table's surface is uneven and bowed, the support cleats are poorly installed, placement of metal fasteners interfere with the mounting holes on the rails (I was not able to mount the table as described in the manual), the legs are not industrial strength, glue run-out interfered with leg attachments.

I have called Powermatic and spoken with a tech rep to provide constructive and critical feedback. I did this because I support the manufacturer. Had I been of the opinion that the saw itself was a gyp I would give no feedback in the hopes they would eventually go out of business.

I will continue to reference my experiences until I have enough time and range of process to write a first review.


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## psient (Jan 25, 2012)

*Pictures of the shop as it evolves in the direction of woodworking*


















View from inside of the shop









View from outside of the shop


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## crashn (Aug 26, 2011)

psient said:


> *Pictures of the shop as it evolves in the direction of woodworking*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


that mill looks a bit on the heavy side!


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## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

psient said:


> *Pictures of the shop as it evolves in the direction of woodworking*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


It looks like your garage is, or soon will be tilting to the left! LOL

That is one big mill. Nice table saw, too!

Lee


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## psient (Jan 25, 2012)

psient said:


> *Pictures of the shop as it evolves in the direction of woodworking*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yes indeed Lee. What I didn't include was the other side of the left wall. You see, it's a three car garage and in the single car bay are my welders, horizontal band saw, welding table, and drill press.

I still need to get a jointer, planer, and bandsaw.

I am really impressed by your ingenuity and design ability. I was researching my saw's set up and you introduced me to the concept of integrating PT work flow. I was thinking about gettin one of your devices. However, I still need so much equipment that I have to dedicate any budget to that area of acquisition. Glad to hear from you!!


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## psient (Jan 25, 2012)

psient said:


> *Pictures of the shop as it evolves in the direction of woodworking*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Crashn:

Yeah it's a nice piece of equipment to have. I can surface anything as well as design and build stuff made of metal to within .0005. I also have a lathe that goes with it.

My Bridgeport can't cut that much in any one pass. For instance with stainless the feed is way slow. If you want to hog lots of metal with a manual mill you need one that's good sized; for instance a Kearney Trecker. BTW these are going for the price of the iron (scrap).


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## psient (Jan 25, 2012)

psient said:


> *Pictures of the shop as it evolves in the direction of woodworking*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I found this illustration of what I mean. Whereas .01 is a lot for my machine, this one can handle .10 like nothing (that's 303 stainless I haven't done any 304 yet). At the end of the video it shows a pass that's at least .5. The material is probably HR but still . . . .

http://www.teranmachinery.com/detalle_maquinaria.php?ID=4049


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

psient said:


> *Pictures of the shop as it evolves in the direction of woodworking*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I wish you were my neighbor.


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## psient (Jan 25, 2012)

psient said:


> *Pictures of the shop as it evolves in the direction of woodworking*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Hi Mike:

I wouldn't mind being in Norway . . . . for the summer. I don't do snow or ice.

Nice to hear from you.

Jon


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

psient said:


> *Pictures of the shop as it evolves in the direction of woodworking*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Hi Jon, We don't get too much snow and ice where I live on the southwest coast, but we don't get much sun either. We do have an abundance of fresh air though, and it is a pleasure to see nature with the great clarity offered by the clean atmosphere here.


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## psient (Jan 25, 2012)

*Acquisition and installation mode *

Just a note for those who are lookin-in:

I haven't been building the workbench because I am waiting for the delivery of my air compressor. I also purchased the G0634Z planer/jointer from Grizzly. These tools AND the installation of my dust collector are an unanticipated priority. Furthermore, I'm going to have to place a concrete slab adjacent to my garage (20' X 24' X 6")

The G0634Z, 3 phase dust collector, and compressor require wiring. In addition the compressor requires a total pipe-run. These tasks are substantial and have been taking all my energy and time.

Hopefully I'll have everything completed and the shop running (including my Dayton 3hp dust collector) by the middle of May.


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## psient (Jan 25, 2012)

*Air Compressor Installed and Plumbed*

I have the Bel Aire 318VN installed and plumbed. I have some minor leaks that need attention and will try to tackle those before I put up pictures.

The wiring, plumbing, compressor siting, and cosmetics took 3.5 weeks. Each was about the same level of difficulty. The major failing in this installation was the horrible contingent the engineers and manufacturers placed on the end-user.

When I was a journeyman carpenter I would get a price from the job foreman for framing, stacking, joisting, drops . . . whatever; say $.05 per sq foot of slab. Many foreman would cheat with your work agreement. They would walk the unit after you had finished looking for things you needed to fix before you jumped the next unit. It would always be small details . . . drywall backing here, electrical chase here, teco clips here. By the time you completed all the work (and sometimes the foreman would catch you 2 or 3 units down the road with a fix). You were actually making about $.03 a foot.

This is the corporate culture of manufacturing and engineering today. They sell you a product then make it your responsibility to finish the design and purchase the necessary parts for installation. Some design and engineering is necessary but there is no incentive for the manufacturer to ensure it is minimal.

By the time you have designed it you have gone through several iterations. Each iteration can require a trip to the hardware/fitting supplier. By the time you add the gas, cost of the changes, and the time you'll find you've added another $10% - 20% to the price.

Bel Aire was particularly guilty of this (not having any other manufacturer to compare I figure they are all like this). It took me 2 days to get the installation correct. For instance, they expect you to hook up the electrical from their switch box but do not give any attention to the conduit/cord connection with the machine. Thus, if you need to make the connection with a strain relief fitting you are left with stopping and going to the supplier. If you're figuring is incorrect you have to do the same again until you get it right. They needn't supply you with the stuff just design the box to preclude your becoming the engineer and manufacturer yourself. Many tool companies have bent over backward to ensure when you buy the tool you do not have to obtain a bunch of ancillary crap to gain efficient use. The premier example is Festool.


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## psient (Jan 25, 2012)

* Planer Jointer Installation*

Having, for all intents and purposes, finished the compressor build I'll start on the planer/jointer installation. It's been in the general area of its siting but I just haven't quite figured out the final orientation. Right now I have it kinda parallel with the axis of the garage door although set back about 15 feet. After considering this for the weeks it took me to install the compressor I believe I got it wrong. Instead, I'll orient it at 90 deg from its current placement. I have all the wiring completed so it's a matter of making up the final connection with the machine.

I can make the table without a bandsaw as Allan did the work without one. However, sizing things so the precision is inherent in the material required a jointer. After all was said and done, a 12" planer/jointer combination seemed the best long term acquisition. I might write reviews of the table saw, compressor, and planer/jointer after I build the table. I guess it just depends how cogent I am during its building and how reliable I believe my memory is at the time of completion. I cannot believe the amount of time I spend looking for something after putting it put down a few minutes before needing it again. I shudder to think of the aggregate amount of effort and time spent on this totally aggravating behavior.

Anyway, I'll probably begin this install tomorrow.


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## psient (Jan 25, 2012)

*Added to my shop area before moving on*

My shop has become a cluttered disaster. I cannot walk from the back to the front without moving something or tripping. My table saw, joiner, cut-off/miter saw, mill, and lathe are all surrounded by stuff to the point where I cannot use them. Enough is enough. I must for my own personal health and sanity pick up where I left off. To whit:

Having been challenged by my health, I haven't been continuing with my blog. I have been stumbling in and out of my shop but not had the energy to continue with its topical project. The abrupt abandonment of this blog has now ended.

I did complete the wiring of the planer joiner but as mentioned it has sat unused.

Some six months ago I had a pretty bad stumble stepping over some unstored wire. The writing was on the wall; I had to take some kind of action and remedy. After my recovery I decided to open-up the shop area. I needed a place to store material, tooling, and machinery waiting to be restored.

As I write there is a soon to be completed concrete slab area is just to the left of my garage. I am not going to add a building but rather a covered outside area. Here I can store my materials and have cabinets for the various and sundry stuff cluttering my garage/shop (including the devil spools of wiring).

A few notes on this slab area:

I used my tractor to establish the grade for the pad, as well as dig the footings. The FEL bucket is 72" in. making the footings I excavated very wide (about 24" X 18" (width X depth). This will increase the amount and subsequent cost of the concrete. However this added dimensionality increases the mass of the slab and it's 7" thickness. I am using #4 rebar throughout on an 18" X 18" grid. The slab grade is about 6" above the adjoining driveway. This change in elevation makes moving shop equipment back and forth problematic. I have decided to put an apron at the far end of the slab so I can roll machinery on and off.

Should I ever decide to put a CNC vertical mill (a VMC) in my shop I'll have confidence that this slab will easily handle the 2 - 4 ton weight.

Note I took some pix of the area as it stands. I began placing the rebar this morning.

I hope to be posting here 2-4 times a week now. I suppose if I do it will be a victory of some kind. Thanks to all who were giving me support and sorry for the abrupt disappearance.

Jon


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## gawthrrw (Sep 13, 2011)

psient said:


> *Added to my shop area before moving on*
> 
> My shop has become a cluttered disaster. I cannot walk from the back to the front without moving something or tripping. My table saw, joiner, cut-off/miter saw, mill, and lathe are all surrounded by stuff to the point where I cannot use them. Enough is enough. I must for my own personal health and sanity pick up where I left off. To whit:
> 
> ...


Looking forward to seeing your progress.


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## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

psient said:


> *Added to my shop area before moving on*
> 
> My shop has become a cluttered disaster. I cannot walk from the back to the front without moving something or tripping. My table saw, joiner, cut-off/miter saw, mill, and lathe are all surrounded by stuff to the point where I cannot use them. Enough is enough. I must for my own personal health and sanity pick up where I left off. To whit:
> 
> ...


A work in progress


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## psient (Jan 25, 2012)

*Slab Grading: First rough-in*

I started grading about 5 months ago, maybe late August.

Pictures of the first rough grading.

I have stockpiled fill on the bank above the slab-area. Note that the area was already at driveway level. I did not excavate all that much. I took back the slope from the driveway to the native grade; a total of 8 feet or so. The fill you see came from this original making of the slope vertical and the actual rough grading for the slab area. Around the slab will be a french drain and I'll use some of this material to back-fill the drain trench.

No forms in this series. The line is to give me some idea of slab-grade while I work.


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## psient (Jan 25, 2012)

*Slab Grading: Second rough-in and forms*

This series of photos was taken in January 2013 I think. I cut the footings with the tractor bucket. Completing that I formed the slab after setting the grade to the floor of the adjoining room. This is about 5 inches above the garage floor and the existing driveway. Thus, there will be a step-up from the driveway to the new slab. To facilitate access for my mobile tools I'll have to form an apron at the corner furthest away from the garage. I have begun the process of placing rebar in the footings.


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## Alexandre (May 26, 2012)

psient said:


> *Slab Grading: Second rough-in and forms*
> 
> This series of photos was taken in January 2013 I think. I cut the footings with the tractor bucket. Completing that I formed the slab after setting the grade to the floor of the adjoining room. This is about 5 inches above the garage floor and the existing driveway. Thus, there will be a step-up from the driveway to the new slab. To facilitate access for my mobile tools I'll have to form an apron at the corner furthest away from the garage. I have begun the process of placing rebar in the footings.


Nice!
How sweet are those oranges there?


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## psient (Jan 25, 2012)

*Slab Grading: Rebar*

I just began placing the rebar in earnest. I set all the anchor dowels tying the new slab with old concrete work 2/4 (yesterday). The rest was done this morning, 2/5. The electrical conduit is primarily to get a 240 volt 60 amp circuit in a position to use my welder anywhere on the slab-area. The slot cut in the stucco is a service re-routed due to the new slab that will be patched when the slab has been completed. I'll pull my welder circuit from an existing one in the garage.

The rebar you see has just been spread. I will place the grid on dobies to keep reinforcement mid-slab. I still have to cut and size to length those rods that intersect the slab's angled offset.

The depth of the footings is about 18" with a width of 20-24". Note the 2X12 top of slab at the driveway; here you can tell that the slab finish grade is about 5" above the driveway. I calculate the slab thickness as 8" figuring the concrete yardage although it will actually be closer to 7". The oversizing of the footings is a result of digging them with my tractor's FEL.

The rebar is #4 @18" between rods. I did this to ensure a CNC mill will be adequately supported if and when I spill for one.

My next cycle will be to form the driveway/slab intersection along with the apron. I'll also have to form the slab/walkway around the little room off the garage- intersection as well.


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## psient (Jan 25, 2012)

*Shop Slab: reinforcing steel placement*

OK I'm now finished placing all the steel. This morning (wed 2/6) I began tying it down.

I'm gonna be preoccupied with this task until tomorrow afternoon I'm sure. I'm trying to decide if I should place a drain in this area. I sent an email to the tech folks at NDS (channel drains). I need to find a narrow channel drain that will create slope with a flush-to-slab-grade grating. That is, maintain a 1/8" per foot fall in the channel while the grate at the top of the channel stays level. If I can't find something I'll put a drain in the center and ABS out to the driveway. After it rains I'll squeegee the puddles into the center.

One other thing:










This tool is a manual rotary rebar wire tier (http://www.crescollc.com/). This is way expensive if you ask me! It seems well built and engineered. I have a problem with my wrist and I'm hoping it'll help prevent me from hurting too much after the tying.

.










Here's where I am today . . .


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## CMobley (Feb 5, 2013)

psient said:


> *Shop Slab: reinforcing steel placement*
> 
> OK I'm now finished placing all the steel. This morning (wed 2/6) I began tying it down.
> 
> ...


Nice work!


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## psient (Jan 25, 2012)

*progress*

I have returned to working on the slab. I tripped and fell due to walking (or attempting to) inbetween the spaces of the rebar. Inevitably no matter how hard I tried to learn, or caution that I used, I mistepped and splattered. One time I caught the toe of my shoe just as I was launching myself over the footing onto the existing driveway and splattered hard face down onto the concrete. Another time my foot caught the line I had set for grade over the rebar and I fell hard onto the rebar itself. I did myself in when I threw plywood onto the untied rebar. When I stepped out the rebar underneath the plywood rolled and the wood itself spun out from under me.

Oh well! I am very sore still.

From this point on I would like to convey the continued slab construction in stages. Each stage will get its own posting.

STAGE 1: dobie placement and final steel setting.
STAGE 2: final in-slab lines and drains setting.
STAGE 3: pouring the slab
STAGE 4  the day after pouring and the beggining of curing


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## psient (Jan 25, 2012)

*progress STAGE 1*

I set the steel and tied the rebar and dobies. Dobies are small concrete blocks with tie wire embedded within them. These blocks are 3" tall; that is they will suspend the rebar 3" above the sand sub base. This ensures that when the finishers walk on the steel it will not depress into the sub base. You can see some of the drain lines in these pictures.

I also formed the approach as well as the transition from the existing walkway to the new slab.


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## psient (Jan 25, 2012)

*progress in slab lines*

This post shows the drain lines. I decided to place these lines due to the slab being level/no slope. At this point I had not formed the approach, seen in the previous stage.

I also placed a graywater drain for a washing machine and shop sink. These were located on either side of the window on the wall of my garage room. I'll receive hot water from an instant water heater. These lines were not in place until the pouring began. As a result, I didn't have chance to take any pix of them in particular.


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## psient (Jan 25, 2012)

*progress: STAGE 3*

On the day the slab was poured the crew arrived at 7am. I had been working on the final placement of the washing machine and water lines starting at 6. The crew arrived while I was still messing with the lines. I did not finish the placement until 8:30. That is to say, I held them back about 1/2 hour. No worries. It took 3 guys and the pumper wrangling the hose. The yardage was 21 and 1/2 yards. That is enough for a 2000 sq. ft. 4" slab. My slab ended up being 8" thick with footings that, on average, were 20" deep and 24" wide.

In these pix the pour progresses through the first 10 yard truck.





































The pictures below depict the next 2 trucks of material: 1-10 yard truck and 1-1 1/2 yard truck. I also have added pictures of the ongoing flat work finishing through the final stages of hard-trowleing.

Note the power trowel/whirlybird.

The drain line is for the washing machine. Working requires that rags get really dirty. Some are simply disposed of while other are definitely reused. I would rather not wash them in the machine doing my daily washing but up till now had no way of adding another washing machine. As I stated previously, I will get my hot water from and on-demand water heater.


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## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

psient said:


> *progress: STAGE 3*
> 
> On the day the slab was poured the crew arrived at 7am. I had been working on the final placement of the washing machine and water lines starting at 6. The crew arrived while I was still messing with the lines. I did not finish the placement until 8:30. That is to say, I held them back about 1/2 hour. No worries. It took 3 guys and the pumper wrangling the hose. The yardage was 21 and 1/2 yards. That is enough for a 2000 sq. ft. 4" slab. My slab ended up being 8" thick with footings that, on average, were 20" deep and 24" wide.
> 
> ...


Wow, that is a great start, love that washing machine addition also, makes great sense


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## psient (Jan 25, 2012)

*progress: STAGE 4*

You can see the results of yesterday's efforts. I had to wet the slab the day after the slab was poured revealing the degree of finish and level.





































By about next Thursday (2/21) I can begin using the slab. My next post will depict form-stripping and 1/2" grooving the slab with my skilsaw fitted with a diamond blade.


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## psient (Jan 25, 2012)

*Slab is cured*

It's been near a month since the slab was poured. At 30 days I am ready to seal the concrete. In the mean time I have pulled the electrical for 220 and 120 single phase circuits.

My electrical run consists of 3 different wire gauges; 6, 8, and 10. I can distribute varying amperage up to 50 amps. Mostly this is for convenience. The only real demanding tool I will routinely use is my big ESAB welder. Everything else will be 30 amps and below.

The 125 amp - 24 circuit sub panel for this run is in my garage. I ordered the 125 breaker for my main panel over a week ago but it as yet has not arrived. As soon as it does I'll install, wire, and energize my sub panel.


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## psient (Jan 25, 2012)

*Water for the slab*

I have now run the water line for the slab. I will hook up to my in-slab line after installing a few hose bibs on the periphery. I dug the trench from the property main with my L4400 Kubota's 72 inch FEL. although this was a bit of over-kill it worked out fine with one minor distraction. Home Depot has dumped almost all of its PVC fittings with the exception of those a non-mechanical hobbyist might use for their sprinkler system. Let me elaborate.

IN the past when I needed a PVC fitting I could find it at HD. This meant if I needed a Compression Tee fitting, or a ball valve etc. I could find it there. Nowadays this has become problematic as the HD management has severely truncated the selection. When I needed to tap the main I was intending on using a Compression Tee. The size was 2" due to my main-line diameter. No fittings at HD. I went to my local Irrigation Supply and they were out of stock awaiting a new shipment. Bummer!

I ended up using a Slip Tee and a Compression COUPLER. After installing a Ball Valve on the 2" line, I reduced it to 1" with a bushing, coupled an anti-siphon valve and did my feeder run. In the end the tap into my main was a bit more expensive than the Compression Tee but still a solution. After that everything went pretty smoothly except it was over 80 degrees yesterday!


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## Bogeyguy (Sep 26, 2012)

psient said:


> *Water for the slab*
> 
> I have now run the water line for the slab. I will hook up to my in-slab line after installing a few hose bibs on the periphery. I dug the trench from the property main with my L4400 Kubota's 72 inch FEL. although this was a bit of over-kill it worked out fine with one minor distraction. Home Depot has dumped almost all of its PVC fittings with the exception of those a non-mechanical hobbyist might use for their sprinkler system. Let me elaborate.
> 
> ...


I'm puzzled by your blog heading. What about your first TS project??


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## psient (Jan 25, 2012)

psient said:


> *Water for the slab*
> 
> I have now run the water line for the slab. I will hook up to my in-slab line after installing a few hose bibs on the periphery. I dug the trench from the property main with my L4400 Kubota's 72 inch FEL. although this was a bit of over-kill it worked out fine with one minor distraction. Home Depot has dumped almost all of its PVC fittings with the exception of those a non-mechanical hobbyist might use for their sprinkler system. Let me elaborate.
> 
> ...


Hello Boogeyguy:

Don't golf myself but appreciate those that do! What's your handicap?

Here's the skinny on me:

I can't start building with wood until I have the space!

So . . . . this narrative started with my table saw purchase and the Powermatic Mobile Base. I thought I could just wheel it out of my garage, then when finished wheel it back. Upon beginning woodworking this plan didn't work out so well. I had to have more room in my garage. With my Bridgeport mill and metal lathe being too heavy to move and in the best place already there was really no space to put outfeed and infeed tables on the Powermatic AND have the bandsaw, jointer/planer, shelving, tables etc. inside. Something had to go!

In the end I had to put off any woowork I wanted to do. Meanwhile I had been installing an air compressor and line. I was constantly moving all the stuff in the garage around to get to the line installation and realized a slab area adjacent to the garage was one option. As I had the inclination and the knowledge to do this the slab became anterograde to my first woodworking project.

In the middle of building the slab/finishing the air line I had some health problems and stalling me out for a long time. I've pretty much recuperated and now (thank heavens) I'm almost done with the slab; need to finish the sub-panel (I received my 125 amp breaker yesterday) and french drain. After I have moved stuff out of my garage and onto the slab I'll finally have the room I need. Once there, I wish to begin working on building my version of Allan Little's ('Ask the Woodman') ULTIMATE WORKTABLE. Ironically in the work table's first stages I'll be incorporating the 2X12 form lumber into the sawhorses!

I can see how you'd anticipate this blog having an immediate content of working with the table saw due to the blog's Title. From my perspective what I am doing isn't all that askew. I think I kept going without explanation because this blog was kinda obscure anyway. Furthermore, most of those that are viewing have been with me from the beginning.

The route I'm taking appears to be circuitous but this is what's going on. I believe a blog is supposed to be . . . I don't know . . . a sort of chronicle. I am sure many woodworkers will take a similar path only their woodworking is primary and ongoing as they expand the shop; for them it's woodwork and then expand the shop. For myself, it's first outfit my shop with equipment and expand to begin the project.

I love to woodwork. However, it's not the only thing. I bring the following to the table in everything done. I hold a union journeyman carpenter's card, am a general contractor/builder, professional horse trainer/ranch owner, and Doctor of Psychology with a focus on neuroscience and quantitative methodology.

I don't think sharing what I am doing is uninteresting but I'm biased yes? Lumberjocks is great!! I have received good feedback on various aspects along the way from our community. I've kept the narrative running in spite of the seemingly irrelevant title. I'll get there . . . sooner or later.

I apologize for any confusion the title caused however, I am getting close to actually starting . . . although one would have to accede calling the preliminaries almost being finished close!??! Onward and upward!

I hope this answers your question. I apologize if my title is oblique at this point.

Jon


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## psient (Jan 25, 2012)

*Electrical pull*

I have pulled the electrical:

Initial set up of all the circuit wires. Each circuit has its own ground wire although not listed this is another three wires to the bundle. 60 amp 240 2-#6, 30 amp 240 2-#8, 20 amp 120 2-#10. All are stranded wire THNN. The conduit is 1 1/4" PVC with rigid 90 degree sweeps at both ends.

Set up for pulling









Pulled


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## psient (Jan 25, 2012)

*Slab water has been layed*

I've installed, hooked-up, and backfilled the water to the slab. The images are below. Today I'll make-up my 125 amp sub panel and energize the slab electrical.

*located the main*








*Put in the 2" shut-off and anti-siphon valve for the 1" feeder line. Note the compression fitting and slip/slip Tee!*








*Ran the feeder line to the slab. The gray pvc is my driveway gate electrical line. I'll vault this shut off and move the gate line out of the way.*
















*Installed the 1" shut-off and a garden valve, then ran the water line to the slab connection shut-off. *

























*Pressure tested the whole system, installed a buried vault for the main shut off and backfilled the whole sh#teree. *


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