# Started a new shop cabinet today



## Woodchuck2010 (Jan 19, 2016)

Having a small shop, every inch counts. I really need screw and hardware storage. I came up with this idea. I'll be installing doors and shelves and finish it to match my other shop furniture.


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## JBrow (Nov 18, 2015)

Woodchuck2010,

Nice! You will really like having hardware in one location and close at hand. It looks like you will have plenty of storage; never enough of that.

Several years ago I too made a fastener cabinet, although not as large as yours. It has 24 bins, all filled with a fastener of some type. I also added a drawer and a shelf which quickly filled with a variety of screws and bolts. My collection of fasteners just seems to keep growing, although I should probably move some of those hardly ever used bolts, screws, and nails to another location and do some re-organizing. Anyway, your project looks like a great addition to the shop.


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## DirtyMike (Dec 6, 2015)

wow chuck, good job


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## Woodchuck2010 (Jan 19, 2016)

Thanks guys. I'll post a pick of the finished project as soon as I'm done. I think I'll use a French cleat to hang it.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

Nice. Suggestion on the vertical stacks of bins, put dividers in so you can pull one out individually.


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## Woodchuck2010 (Jan 19, 2016)

> Nice. Suggestion on the vertical stacks of bins, put dividers in so you can pull one out individually.
> 
> - rwe2156


Yeah you're right. I was fabricating as I was going along and added the side compartments as an after thought. The bins lock together in the stacks so that wouldn't be ideal if I wanted a single bin. Everything is dry fitted, so I can take it all apart and add dividers. I'll probably have to lose a bin on each side to fit the dividers in. I guess I could use brads to secure the dividers if I use wood. Maybe mount little rails for the bins to slide onto. IDK .Ugh. lol


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## Woodchuck2010 (Jan 19, 2016)

Ok. I fixed the stacked bins with dividers. Much better access. Thx


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## fivecodys (Dec 2, 2013)

I really like this.
How deep is the cabinet?


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## Woodchuck2010 (Jan 19, 2016)

> I really like this.
> How deep is the cabinet?
> 
> - fivecodys


It's only 10" deep. Like I said, I have a small shop and can't have anything sticking out too far.


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## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

Great project and will come in really handy.


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## Woodchuck2010 (Jan 19, 2016)

I'm wondering about doors and what type of hinges to use. I don't have a lot of experience with cabinet hinges. I was thinking maybe 1/2" plywood doors? What about some sort of latch? Self closing hinges? Idk


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## JBrow (Nov 18, 2015)

Woodchuck2010,

Plywood does not always set flat, so I think ½" plywood by itself may not be the best choice for cabinet doors. Even ¾" plywood could cup or twist enough to prevent a nice seal. When I used ½" plywood as doors on my fastener cabinet, I added a border of ¾" X 1-1/2" solid wood, glued and screwed on edge to the plywood face. This border offers some advantages. The first is that it helps keep the plywood flat. The second, since the edges of border on the door close against the cabinet frame, a little added depth to the cabinet cavity is achieved. Some hangers (#4 finishing nails cut a little shorter) could be installed on the inside of the door within the cavity for those screws that come in packaging can be hung from a nail. The border could be rabbeted for a nicer look, but I chose to edge/face attach the border because it was faster and easier and offered an inside the cabinet cavity.

I used small inexpensive butt hinges that are not spring loaded on my fastener cabinet. I used one pair of hinges on each door, although if items will hang on the inside of the door, some additional hinges could be need. I installed double barrel latches at the top to hold the cabinet doors closed. However, since these are mounted at the top and the doors flex a bit, I find that I have to slam the doors closed for the latches to catch. I have also used window sash latches on my shop cabinets. I like the window sash latch style mainly because they are cheap and can draw a door tightly closed. I have also tried magnetic catches, but these seem to perform poorly in keeping doors closed.

I see no reason that self-closing hinges could not be used. If self-closing hinges are used, I am not sure a latch is required. If you go for 35 mm cup style hinges, a border around the plywood into which the cup would be drilled would be required since the cup depth may leave little or no ½" plywood on the outside surface without a border. If inexpensive surface mounted self-closing cabinet hinges are used, then three hinges may be needed to keep the doors closed since self-close mechanism may be too weak if only 2 hinges are used.


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

What do you have planned for the open areas?
Here are some pics of my cabinets. Yep, one car garage with a lot of stuff in it.
Hope it gives you some inspiration for your cabinet.

http://lumberjocks.com/MT_Stringer/blog/36520


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## BurlyBob (Mar 13, 2012)

That is one real handy looking cabinet.


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## Woodchuck2010 (Jan 19, 2016)

> Woodchuck2010,
> 
> Plywood does not always set flat, so I think ½" plywood by itself may not be the best choice for cabinet doors. Even ¾" plywood could cup or twist enough to prevent a nice seal. When I used ½" plywood as doors on my fastener cabinet, I added a border of ¾" X 1-1/2" solid wood, glued and screwed on edge to the plywood face. This border offers some advantages. The first is that it helps keep the plywood flat. The second, since the edges of border on the door close against the cabinet frame, a little added depth to the cabinet cavity is achieved. Some hangers (#4 finishing nails cut a little shorter) could be installed on the inside of the door within the cavity for those screws that come in packaging can be hung from a nail. The border could be rabbeted for a nicer look, but I chose to edge/face attach the border because it was faster and easier and offered an inside the cabinet cavity.
> 
> ...


Wow. Thank you. I was thinking about doing the frame on the doors. I never thought about doing it on the inside too for that extra room. Very good suggestions! Thanks!


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## Woodchuck2010 (Jan 19, 2016)

> What do you have planned for the open areas?
> Here are some pics of my cabinets. Yep, one car garage with a lot of stuff in it.
> Hope it gives you some inspiration for your cabinet.
> 
> ...


Very nice! Great ideas. I already made a charging and drill bit station. I have since added shelves to the inside.



















As I mentioned in my post, I'm going to add shelves and a couple doors. I already drilled the shelf holes.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

WC,

Personally I would make simple frame and panel doors with a 1/4" plywood flat panel. 
Plywood alone you might have warping issues.
1/2" MDF is another consideration.

Hinge options include simple butt hinges or piano hinge.

Since space is an issue, you could also consider sliding doors…..or no doors at all.


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## Woodchuck2010 (Jan 19, 2016)

Ok everyone. I've finally finished my cabinet! (well, I do have to make about 4 shelves) lol. It turned out ok. There are some things I'd do differently. Live and learn. haha. I'm pretty pleased overall though. It will really help in the small shop. Now I just have to hang it! Oh crap! It cut off the right side of the pics.


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## Woodchuck2010 (Jan 19, 2016)

Thanks for the ideas and suggestions. It really helped.


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## JBrow (Nov 18, 2015)

Looks really good and the real plus is the generous and accessibly storage!


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## Woodchuck2010 (Jan 19, 2016)

> Looks really good and the real plus is the generous and accessibly storage!
> 
> - JBrow


Thank you! You and rwe2156 helped make my door construction decision. Thanks for that also.


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## Woodchuck2010 (Jan 19, 2016)

Alright. I got it on the wall. This is going to work great.


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## Woodchuck2010 (Jan 19, 2016)

Starting to organize some of the fasteners. This seems to work well. I'm a very visual guy. I need to see whats in the bins, so I hot glued a sample on the front of the bin.


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