# Wall Hung Tool Cabinet



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*This is going to happen, right?*

EDIT: Updated pic links to ditch PB-BS.

At one point in another forum post here on LJs, I offered a tool cabinet would be worked using the raw materials salvaged from this old Hoosier cabinet topper.



















Including the beat up piece of tambour door.










Some fine grit ROS work on the tambouR got it to look presentable; here it is sitting on top of the now-disassembled topper.










Not sure where this is headed, evidenced by the foot-dragging on the project so far. But, I did build a headboard in the meantime, so it's not all been idle days on the shop… I've also gued up the split pieces of the upper so the raw material is ready to work. Anyway, I'm starting a blog series to keep track of progress should any LJs want to follow along. Thanks for looking, stay tuned as I try to figure this out.


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This is going to happen, right?*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to ditch PB-BS.
> 
> ...


Are you going to….
-Just use the lumber to make something new?
-Restore back to the original structure and put tools in it where you can?
-Restore for the most part but modify for specific tool storage?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This is going to happen, right?*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to ditch PB-BS.
> 
> ...


Re-use material as much as possible in a totally new build. Hoosiers are terrible tool cabinets.


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This is going to happen, right?*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to ditch PB-BS.
> 
> ...


First thoughts are that you can stand a few nice long # 7's and #8s in the verticle side compartments.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This is going to happen, right?*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to ditch PB-BS.
> 
> ...


It's an interesting situation I find myself in, re: tool storage at the moment, and I'm not breaking new ground w/ anyone on this site. I've got tools in my Roubo cabinet, below my bench, handplanes on the wall in open storage and in an old legal cabinet, saws in a till (including dovetail saws), and some other stragglers without a home that should co-habitate with related tools and be more accessible when I do related tasks. So while I don't nessesarily want another cabinet, it makes sense.

Long planes to store (don't have a good home) would include the #113 and the cambered jack and the #62. But I'll do another entry to hash out (early) what I'd like to get into this storage piece…


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## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This is going to happen, right?*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to ditch PB-BS.
> 
> ...


Looks like plenty of potential for storage of some type or another. Lots of area and cubby holes to work with and organize. We all need more organization/storage, dont we? Good luck, we all know you can make something cool from it.


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This is going to happen, right?*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to ditch PB-BS.
> 
> ...


Wow! This should be interesting. I'm looking forward to seeing what you come up with. What wood is it Smitty?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This is going to happen, right?*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to ditch PB-BS.
> 
> ...


Solid oak top and sides, with major shelf boards and bottom piece looking like poplar with a couple inches of oak edging. Oak isn't good for tool cabinets, I've read, because of tannin content and it's effect on tools. So I'm looking at adding some pine to the project, 7/8" stuff,


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This is going to happen, right?*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to ditch PB-BS.
> 
> ...


I reclaimed a hoosier once. I went the other way.


Of course, not much _lumber" left on my example. I have never heard that about oak and tool cabinets. Some good stuff going on in the Smitty woodworking shop.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This is going to happen, right?*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to ditch PB-BS.
> 
> ...


Here's one place I've favorited that talks about tannic acid and wood choice. I'll keep the use of oak, as it comes in direct contact with tools, to a minimum in closed spaces as a result. Good thing the hutch is a hybrid of materials!


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This is going to happen, right?*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to ditch PB-BS.
> 
> ...


Cool, I look forward to watching the progress.


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This is going to happen, right?*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to ditch PB-BS.
> 
> ...


I've know about tannic acid reacting with iron to form a black stain. In fact, Ive played with steel wool dissolved on vinegar to stainebonize oak. However I did not know that it will corrode tools. Hmm. I am a little skeptical that just enclosure of high tannin wood will corrode tools. In contact, yes. I don't know the chemistry so I guess tannic acid "gases" off.


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This is going to happen, right?*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to ditch PB-BS.
> 
> ...


Surely it won't corrode tools if you put a surface finish on it like a varnish or lacquer and seal it in. I do know that you using BLO on oak can react with the tannin and create grey streaks. Been there, done that.


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This is going to happen, right?*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to ditch PB-BS.
> 
> ...


Can those oak stains be sanded out removed. My understanding is that the tannins caused staining not corrosion. I sometime leave my metal planes sitting on the bench and the oak shavings can leave little stains.

I would also add Birch to the list of woods that don't stain wood. That's what my tool holders are made of now and I haven't had any issues.


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This is going to happen, right?*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to ditch PB-BS.
> 
> ...


I've done a little search and the basic gist that I came up with is that tannic acid stains iron/steel via a black oxide. This is similar to bluing. The oxide does not consume the metal like ferrous oxide (rust).

Still have not found anything that suggest that a gaseous form of tannic acid arising from an oak chest will do anything.

This is an interesting read Blackening Wood - on Accident … on Purpose


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This is going to happen, right?*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to ditch PB-BS.
> 
> ...


Old German (cabinetmaker's) wives tale?

But then Gerstner has been making oak chests for tools over a century…


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This is going to happen, right?*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to ditch PB-BS.
> 
> ...


Thats a friggin cool lamp. It appears to be the same vintage as your hand planes. A little Art Nouveau maybe? You are certainly consistent.

Oh, I am not trying to be anal about this oak cabinet -tannin induced corrosion thing. However, I will need to make a tool till of my own soon and that is something good to know.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This is going to happen, right?*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to ditch PB-BS.
> 
> ...


I took the German LJ at his word; I'm confident it is something he was taught and I respected it. That said, I know I don't have enough of the right material to build what I want from only the Hoosier carcase. So I'll add the pine on hand and work smart to blend the two woods… The tambour, specifically, will carry forward.

Re: the light. Couldn't resist that cast iron beauty!


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## SamuelP (Feb 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This is going to happen, right?*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to ditch PB-BS.
> 
> ...


Great idea.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*What Comes from Old Hoosiers?*

The first act was to deconstruct the old topper, as noted in Installment #1. But thinking the whole thing was made of oak was a mistake. Here are a couple of pics of side boards, post-glue-up to address splitting that had taken place over the years. This piece was totally abused (mostly in outbuildings) and has been separated from it's base for decades:



















But for the tambour door slats, these sides are the only solid oak pieces of the cabinet. The major partitions as well as the top and bottom pieces are something that looks like poplar to me, but with oak edging. Here's a pic showing said top and bottom close up, post-glue:










Since only the sides are oak AND they are the only pieces without deep dados in them (hah! deep dado…), I've decided to use the oak for the front of the cabinet, with innards of pine / other material as required. How much pine for a carcase? Just a peek into a possible layout tells me how tall the cabinet should be. Widtth confirmed also, with Golden Ratio (1.61) in mind.










So here's what the sides will be made of:










The inspiration piece has half blinds joining the top with the sides, and simple dados for the bottom. I'll do some pics of those features in the next installment, I think, so you'll know what I'm considering as decisions are made. I'd love to use some sliding dovetails, so I'll make an appeal that anyone with a Stanly #444 not in use, pls consider sending it my way for a couple weeks, okay? 

'til next time!


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *What Comes from Old Hoosiers?*
> 
> The first act was to deconstruct the old topper, as noted in Installment #1. But thinking the whole thing was made of oak was a mistake. Here are a couple of pics of side boards, post-glue-up to address splitting that had taken place over the years. This piece was totally abused (mostly in outbuildings) and has been separated from it's base for decades:
> 
> ...


I chuckled at the "deep dado" and I am not proud of it. I like the employment of the golden ratio. I am real believer, probably because I need a handicap when it comes to design.

What is this said "inspiration piece."


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *What Comes from Old Hoosiers?*
> 
> The first act was to deconstruct the old topper, as noted in Installment #1. But thinking the whole thing was made of oak was a mistake. Here are a couple of pics of side boards, post-glue-up to address splitting that had taken place over the years. This piece was totally abused (mostly in outbuildings) and has been separated from it's base for decades:
> 
> ...


I just noticed the #62 with shavings. Nice.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *What Comes from Old Hoosiers?*
> 
> The first act was to deconstruct the old topper, as noted in Installment #1. But thinking the whole thing was made of oak was a mistake. Here are a couple of pics of side boards, post-glue-up to address splitting that had taken place over the years. This piece was totally abused (mostly in outbuildings) and has been separated from it's base for decades:
> 
> ...


nice reclaim. I wonder if it wasn't reclaimed once before?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *What Comes from Old Hoosiers?*
> 
> The first act was to deconstruct the old topper, as noted in Installment #1. But thinking the whole thing was made of oak was a mistake. Here are a couple of pics of side boards, post-glue-up to address splitting that had taken place over the years. This piece was totally abused (mostly in outbuildings) and has been separated from it's base for decades:
> 
> ...


Inspiration piece is here.

The top was actually screwed to the wall of an outside shed when we bought our century-old house almost 20 years ago. I've moved it around a bunch, trying to find an effective use, no go. So now this.


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *What Comes from Old Hoosiers?*
> 
> The first act was to deconstruct the old topper, as noted in Installment #1. But thinking the whole thing was made of oak was a mistake. Here are a couple of pics of side boards, post-glue-up to address splitting that had taken place over the years. This piece was totally abused (mostly in outbuildings) and has been separated from it's base for decades:
> 
> ...


A interesting read Smitty. With a bit of humor and your new toy. I cant wait to see what you will do next.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *What Comes from Old Hoosiers?*
> 
> The first act was to deconstruct the old topper, as noted in Installment #1. But thinking the whole thing was made of oak was a mistake. Here are a couple of pics of side boards, post-glue-up to address splitting that had taken place over the years. This piece was totally abused (mostly in outbuildings) and has been separated from it's base for decades:
> 
> ...


 Thanks, Super. Glad you enjoyed the write-up! I can't wait, either, re: what's next. This is very current, so it's important that I keep it moving. Ah, pressure. At least this is (lightly) self-inflicted…


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *What Comes from Old Hoosiers?*
> 
> The first act was to deconstruct the old topper, as noted in Installment #1. But thinking the whole thing was made of oak was a mistake. Here are a couple of pics of side boards, post-glue-up to address splitting that had taken place over the years. This piece was totally abused (mostly in outbuildings) and has been separated from it's base for decades:
> 
> ...


There's nothing like a bit of peer pressure to keep a project moving Smitty  The only thing I've found that beats it is wife pressure.

You've got some great components laid out there, the tools are poised for action and I'm excited to see what you'll make of it all.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*Jointing the carcase stock*

EDIT: Fixed the pics to avoid the PB BS. Smitty

Used the #8 to get one good edge, 'cause the boards needed help:



















Measured set (max) width to repeat on each board, 10 7/8", tranferred it to the panel panel gauge, and marked the other edges of each board…





































Fasten the stuff to the bench and joint it for staight and width to the scored line.










#5 jack goes to town.










NOW we're good to move forward… From jointing to joinery!


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Jointing the carcase stock*
> 
> EDIT: Fixed the pics to avoid the PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Beautiful shavings and I love that bench!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Jointing the carcase stock*
> 
> EDIT: Fixed the pics to avoid the PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


 Thanks, Maur!


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Jointing the carcase stock*
> 
> EDIT: Fixed the pics to avoid the PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


I am late in seeing this series. Great work Smitty. I am really looking forward to seeing this come together. Where did you get your panel gauge?


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## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Jointing the carcase stock*
> 
> EDIT: Fixed the pics to avoid the PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Ahh, progress …looking forward to watching it unfold.

Tote stickers, are too cool. : )


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Jointing the carcase stock*
> 
> EDIT: Fixed the pics to avoid the PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Tony, that gauge is courtesy of Mr.Leech, an 87 1/2 model Stanley. It needs a home in the new cabinet, actually.

Ditto, Shane. Totally agreed!


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Jointing the carcase stock*
> 
> EDIT: Fixed the pics to avoid the PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Smitty, nice detail. I noticed some cool looking hold fasts below "Fasten the stuff to the bench and joint it for staight and width to the scored line." Are they vintage?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Jointing the carcase stock*
> 
> EDIT: Fixed the pics to avoid the PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Thanks, Don. Stanley #203 clamps… They're awesome. I admit to learning about them from The Schwarz in his blue Workbenches book. He has moved on, but I'll never part with mine.










EDIT: Adding another pic that won't get cropped (?)


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Jointing the carcase stock*
> 
> EDIT: Fixed the pics to avoid the PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Smitty the little clamps were the first thing I saw. Thanks for the close up. Nice work, keep us posted.


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Jointing the carcase stock*
> 
> EDIT: Fixed the pics to avoid the PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


You are truly are a Stanley fan.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Jointing the carcase stock*
> 
> EDIT: Fixed the pics to avoid the PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Toollbox to the world, my friend. (and to lumberjocks everywhere…)


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Jointing the carcase stock*
> 
> EDIT: Fixed the pics to avoid the PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


A pair of 203s on ebay…

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ANTIQUE-VTG-STANLEY-NO-203-BENCH-VICE-CLAMP-SET-LOT-OLD-METAL-TOOL-WOOD-WORKING-/230770584045?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35baffa9ed#ht_500wt_922


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*Some Carcase Joinery*

EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS. Smitty

Top joins the sides with half-blinds, so let's clamp up and get started.










Mark and cut the tails. No dovetail jigs… It's for strength, doesn't have to be perfect as a shop joint.



















Chop the waste.










Gauge setting for the 'inset' of the pinboard, then balance the tail board to tranfer tail lines:



















I did place a straightedge alongside the setup to ensure the layout ot the two pieces stayed 'square.'










Sawing pins with the DE backsaw, then chopping waste:





































Test fit from the saw.










Repeated for the other top corner, and I now have an "assembly!" 










A couple of horizontals towards the bottom for dado'ing, so joinery not done yet on this carcase. More to come!


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## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Some Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Nice job Smitty. You do a good job with your pics. Looking forward to more, and the finished project.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Some Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Thank you, Shane. Pic taking has almost become second nature in the shop anymore.


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## JL7 (Apr 13, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Some Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Man - those are some mighty fine dovetails…....very nice!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Some Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Thanks for reading, Jeff!


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Some Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Smitty those blind's are sum nice woodwork. I love a dovetail. And you sir do them justice. Looks as the project is moving right along.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Some Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Super, Most appreciated! Lots to do before tools can get stored inside the cabinet, but it's the journey right?


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Some Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


You know it. Its a journey through your imagination, into your hands, passed from your tools to shape the wood.


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## JGM0658 (Aug 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Some Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Nice work on the dovetails, I have a question though, why did you decide to use half blind dovetails? From a design point of view the sides will be the weight bearing elements of the cabinet, I would have used through dovetails to add strength to the sides.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Some Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


JGM- First answer, half blinds come from the inspiration piece that's been around over 120 years. Second part is much more thoughtful, because this cabinet will get weighted down in the doors themselves, and that's not the case for the original.

"Sides will be the weight bearing" is true, and sides -to-top joinery is most critical depending also on how this thing gets mounted to the wall as well. When it's full of tools, doors open wide, there will be outward pressure at the tops of the doors, at the upper hinge. These half-blinds should be as effective as fulls there. So mounting is next. And I do see how full-tailed side boards would be preferred. I've thought alot about the hanging stresses that will be present in a cabinet like this, and how best to address them during the build, specifically as the back meets top and sides. Still working through that, actually, but don't think I've bought the farm yet. Also for consideration, there will be a type of corner bracket used underneath, a pair, actually, as extra support when it's on the wall.

I'll be sure and talk more about this as the build progresses. Thanks for the comment!


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Some Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Smitty, those dovetails look great.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Some Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Thanks, Don, very much. Cutting dovetails is one of my favorite activities in the shop, I think.


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Some Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


*Smitty* - You're so honest in your answer to JGM. I would have just said that I couldn't cut the tails in the side piece because of that stonking great knot right near the top. You're right though, there will be a huge amount of outward force at the top due to the weight of the doors and there are other ways to counter the downward force on the joinery. Looking good bro'.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Some Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Good news, Brit, is it's getting painted on the outside. So pine is a good material choice for this, knots and all.


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Some Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Nice work Smitty! I am really enjoying this, thanks for bringing us along.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Some Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Tony, that's appreciated!


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Some Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


This looks like a fun build Smitty, thanks for sharing. If I were making my tool cabinet gain I would build it the way you are, Pine, Dovetailes, looks great!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Some Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


You 'da man with that chisel'd vise screw, Mauricio! It's the kind of task I can agravating myself with as well, but this time I get to watch someone else do it! . We're on our way, Buddy!


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Some Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


LOL enjoy yourself my friend!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*What's In a Partition?*

EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty

The Inspiration Piece features a couple of partions with great curves that I want to replicate in my cabinet, so I pulled out paper, pencil and scissors and set about tracing one of them.

The original:










Put on paper:










I did the glue-up of the panel last week, and planed it true and smooth.














































The orig is 21" and that means the pattern is not 'to scale'...










But a photocopier came to rescue… I Shaded the profiled edge of the pattern and reduced the copy 78% to get to the 15" range needed for this build. Ready to trace onto the partition:










Cuts made with the coping saw (no scroll or I might have tried that), turned the blade to a couple of angles and it went well. Then some rasp work. (Saw handle refurb skills are tranferable!)










Sanding through 220 grit for now, and it looks pretty good!










How does this fit into the cabinet? Well, that's the next installment, perhaps.


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## racerglen (Oct 15, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *What's In a Partition?*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Always keep 'em hanging eh ?
Nice work Smitty !


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## GrandpaLen (Mar 6, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *What's In a Partition?*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


I am always impressed at the resemblance between a man, his shop and his capabilities.

Some woodworkers amass a collection of tools and others use them. You my friend appear to be a user.

A Trap Drum set in the shop, I can identify with that. I was a drummer for several years in the 60's when "Wipeout" was much more than a distant memory.

Furniture quality display/storage cabinets in Smitty_Cabinetshop's Shop, befitting of the moniker. - Len


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *What's In a Partition?*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Smitty I like the reduction with the photocopier. Great idea. The build is progressing nicely. Good times.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *What's In a Partition?*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Len- I'm one of four old farts that get together and play about four times a year. We've actually recorded several Beatles albums for our own enjoyment  Next up is a dozen tracks from Tommy… That will be interesting.

Thinking through all the joinery possible / adventagious prior to buttoning up (gluing!) the carcase. In the meantime, another post on dado cutting (Ahhh!! Ooooo!) is in the offing. Thanks, all, for your time and comments.


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *What's In a Partition?*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Nice Curves Smitty, and I like the copier patern shrinking trick.

Are we going to see some dados cut with that exotic new saw you got?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *What's In a Partition?*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Before this build is done, definitely!


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *What's In a Partition?*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


^ +1 Mauricio

Thanks Smitty! Great work.


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## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *What's In a Partition?*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


What type of finish are you going to use? Nice progress so far.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *What's In a Partition?*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Inside, nothing except (maybe) Watco's, not sure. Pine outside will be painted, front just may be 7/8" cherry. That I won't paint.


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *What's In a Partition?*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Seeing you do those curves made me wonder. Have I ever seen you do any spokeshave work? It seems that would be right up your alley.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *What's In a Partition?*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Huh… I have a couple of them, didn't think to try them on these curves. Rats!


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *What's In a Partition?*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


That lamp catches my eye every time it is in a pic.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *What's In a Partition?*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


It's become a fixture I don't want to do without. And I never thought I'd have a lamp on my bench…


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*Some More Carcase Joinery*

EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty

So there's a bit more that has to be done before finishing the overall carcase of this wall hung tool cabinet to be, and it's all about dados and stopped dados. Quite simply, the cabinet will be divided into two distinct parts: a lower section that has a tambor door and storage for two jack planes (cambered #5 and #62), then an upper section that has a pair of doors with 'depth' storage inside.

So the first thing to do is create the joints for the divider as well as the bottom to the overall cabinet. Here's a pic that shows the extent of the 'serious planning' this project has experienced re: layout to date…










Bottom first, and it's the hard way. Mark the lines, sink the chisel lines and work the router plane 'til the bottom of the dado is reach.





































Then I marked out and 'chopped' the stopped dados for the horizontal stuff that will clearly define the top of the cabinet from the bottom.




























Then marked the stopped dado line to finish the install finish.



















Success!



















... just have to clean it up a bit, because reclaimed material can sometimes look, well, used… 

All of the salvaged lumber featured a very bad (and persistent) double line of raised material that posed a challenge for the router and just looked bad.










Initially I used the #18 block to knock it down.










But a slightly cambered #5 1/4 turns out to be my go-to rough work jack plane for work like this… Lighter, like a scrub, but not as heavy on the removal. A quick shot of before-and-after:



















That's all for now. Future moves include a bit more of the dado thing, and an actual use of some of the original donor hoosier cabinet material! Huzzah!  Thanks for looking.


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## Robsshop (Apr 3, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Some More Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Smitty, looks like Your Tool Cabinet is shaping up nicely and the reclaimed lumber has great character IMO ! Your hand tool work looks very clean and Your hand tool arsenal is impressive ! I will continue to watch Your progress,thanks for sharing and looking forward to the next installment !..........ROB


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Some More Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Thanks for checking in, Rob. It's getting there. Being very deliberate at this stage because I want to be sure and catch all joinery that's possible only before glue-up. The cabinet isn't exactly planned out in detail, so there's an element of surprise to it every time I head out to the shop. I've decided this weekend, for example, the facade of the cabinet will be cherry vs. anything else I have on hand. ASnd it'll be the first build I do with cherry, so good experience. Should be fun!


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## GrandpaLen (Mar 6, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Some More Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Smitty,

That cabinet is shaping up nicely and absence of corded or battery powered tools takes me to a quiet, calm, inner peace where the whisper of wood shavings from the plane and hand router delivers me back, 50 odd years, to my Grandfather's shop. Power and field expedience has displaced the luxury of near silent construction.

Carry on my friend, enjoy that build. - Len


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## Timbo (Aug 21, 2008)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Some More Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Glad to have found this blog albeit a little late! This build has been captivating for me to read this morning, thanks for posting Smitty. I just finished a Quilt chest out of cherry, it was my first time working with this wood and I found it was great to work with. I did have to deal with some tear out when hand planing the top but that forced me to become more proficient with the sharpening and use of card scrapers.

@Len, couldn't agree more…


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Some More Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Man, Len, you have a way with the written word. To you and Tim, thanks for jumping in! Hope I like cherry, because there's lots to do with it when the time comes. I've done a little playing around with some scrap at the bench; it is certainly a hard wood and needs the finest of plane iron edges to work easily. So I'll have to be on my toes…


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Some More Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


very nice work Smitty. I agree Len has a way with words. " takes me to a quiet, calm, inner peace where the whisper of wood shavings from the plane and hand router delivers me back"

I thought it was worth repeating.


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Some More Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Looking great. I am learning lots. Thank you for the detail Smitty.


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Some More Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Smitty the action shots of the planes are great. That closeup of the 71 was classic. The project is coming along nicely. Great tips on re-purposing old lumber. I await to see it filled with tools. Nice job.


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Some More Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Smitty,
Well I cant really add much to what has already been said. Yet, it seems to me that you are having a lot of fun with your picture composition.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Some More Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


I figure if you didn't know firsthand what a #71 looks like in use, you do now…m

Super, the 'filling it with tools' part has me puckering the most. I've got high hopes, but precious little when it comes to specifics. So I'm enjoying the challenge of the build and will deal with arrangements and cubbies when that time comes!

Scott, The big south-facing window plays havoc on the shots I can get, but I'm figuring out ways around the limitation. Probably take too many pics, but it's becoming second nature. Thanks for looking - hows the bench build coming?


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Some More Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


It is kind of hard to have too many pics. Alot of your pics in the last 2 blog entries possess good composition (at the risk of sounding too artsy).


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Some More Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


(Googling 'composition' as it applies to photography…)


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Some More Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Here is some reading Smitty

10 Top Photography Composition Rules

This struck me… the way the scribing knife and combo square point to the subject. The framing square leans toward the subject as well. But I am just geeking out here.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Some More Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


I just read those Ten. Interesting! And the observation ^ it makes sense. I had no idea…


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Some More Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Looking good Smitty.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Some More Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Thanks, Brit! You know you're an installment behind…


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## rodman40 (Jan 11, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Some More Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


That's so cool Smitty, thanks for the feedback on how to use the plane, will try it tonight when grandson goes home. Smitty, do they have different size cutters for these planes and where can I buy them?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Some More Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Actually, stanley still sells the 1/4' cutter as a replacement part for just over $5. The third cutter is beveled, and although I have it, haven't used it much at all.

Getting used to setting the depth is key. Patience, and use as little iron depth as possible to get a cut as you're starting, and you'll get the hang of it. I chisel the borders of the dado, obviously, to eliminate splintering outside of the 'dado zone.' Give it a try!

Oh, do you know how to sharpen plane irons like these? Keep the bottoms flat, whatever you do. It's possible to get a solid edge by simply using fine-grade sandpaper to hone the bottom… Set the paper on the tablesaw top, for example, and work the bottom of the iron until it's flat and shiny. The edge should be decent enough to play with at that point. If you want to do more, there are resources on the web on sharpening them. I can take some pics too, if you need it.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*And Some More, Yes, Carcase Joinery*

EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty

Top and bottom of the cabinet have been defined, but not the space for the jack planes and tambor door. Because there a plenty of pics of the dado process, here's what the defined spaces look like in dry-fit mode.










And the plane partition has been shaped to match similar pieces in the inspiration piece.










The interior of door'd section then got some attention, again driven by something I saw (and posted) a couple of weeks ago. This shot of the interior of a craftsman-made tool cabinet has the look that's attractive to my eye. As strange as it seems, I particularly like the area under the drawers…



















How to incorporate? For that matter, what material? Well, I think it's time to try and use some of that originally-envisioned Hoosier Cabinet material in this build. How bad is it? Well, it's not 3/4", not flat, and not… well… attractive.










Off to the lunchbox planer. Yeah, I know. Totally out of my character. But you know what? A fellah has got to know his limits and messing with this crappy stuff is my limit. That, and the fact that the planer blades are ready for replacement anyway says it's a can't lose to work this stuff over with an electron-driven fury before taking it inside.










First clamped each to the bench to get a solid, jointed edge on the oak…










Cut the pieces to length and width:



















Using old meant dealing with a challenge, of course. The first picture below is the crappy finish from the planer that gets smoothed 'off camera' later. Then there were dados in the material from the Hoosier days that I had to work into the new build. Fortunately I could create the three drawer look without compromise.



















Another set of dado cuts was needed, giving me an excuse to use the combo backsaw. With a bit of trial and error I was able to set a 'fence' in place and set depth of the blade inside the adjustable back. A couple of blocks cut from other donor material gave me the verticals for this drawer assy.














































I'll spare all the pain of seeing all the dado cuts required to set this bank of drawers into the carcase; that's what's next. From there it's construction of the backpanel, or whatever gets to be the back of this build. Then the front frame, panel doors, setting the tambor, etc. etc. Wow, am I halfway yet? Doesn't look like it.

Thanks for looking!


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## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *And Some More, Yes, Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Coming along nicely. Good to see the lunchbox planer too! Sometimes, a man has got to do what he has got to do.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *And Some More, Yes, Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


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## GrandpaLen (Mar 6, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *And Some More, Yes, Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Smitty,

Looking good.

Sometimes that 'free lumber' comes with extra 'baggage' to handle. I guess that's why our tool collections include a few of those seldom used tools.

We invest a little extra time in some projects, quite often even in our own shop furniture, even if it won't ever be seen, just because we know it's there.

Work Safe and have Fun. - Len


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *And Some More, Yes, Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Nice Smitty, I agree with you on the use of the electron killers. When I have a lot of volume to get out. I will break out the power tools. I use my hand tools to fine tune and put that handmade touch on my stuff. 
It is coming along wonderfully Smitty. You blog in enough detail that most questions are answered.Keep us posted Smitty
Nice work!
Good times


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *And Some More, Yes, Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


An update of drawer rack dados.










Then Tonight's dry-fit exercise of all that is good and right with this build.


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *And Some More, Yes, Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


That carcase is looking like it is getting some nice looking ribs.


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *And Some More, Yes, Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


This is looking GREAT Smitty!, great pics too, I can almost hear the shavings happening.


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *And Some More, Yes, Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


With all those dado's to cut, what do you think about Dado planes? There are shown in action in the latest PW magazine. I'm thinking if I get likea 3/8" on you can then cut a 3/8" rabbet on the shelf to fit precisley.

The only problem is the stopped dados, a dado plane would work for that I dont think.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *And Some More, Yes, Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


My shelves aren't 'dimensional,' especially the ones from reclaimed lumber. They're whatever comes from the irons, flat and true and smooth. It's amazing how little I actually measure things. And yes, stopped wouldn't be possible. The combo saw is a huge advance, and I'm still going to make a stair saw someday.


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## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *And Some More, Yes, Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Smitty,

would you please give a better view of this "combo saw" (or a link to a previous post if already done before) ?
(or should i say "could you" if more polite ? I am not a native English speaker)

About stair saw, it seems there would be a slight difference between a stair saw and a trenching saw
( see http://www.ecemmerich.com/saegen.html ) wich is pointed too in this episode "German woodcraft in America" of the season 2007-2008 of woodwright shop.
http://www.pbs.org/woodwrightsshop/video/2700/2710.html
You might be interested if making one.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *And Some More, Yes, Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Sylvain - I have a couple of posts in the Epic Thread on the Simmons combo saw. And yes, the stair saw I'm referring to is very much not the trenching, or frame, saw that's in the EC Emmerich link above. I'd use a stair saw for stopped dado cuts, I think, as the Simmons combo is well-suited for through (non-stopped?) dados.

Here's a pic of a saw for sale at the site embedded in the pic that is a stair saw. I'd make one with an adjustable-depth blade…


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## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *And Some More, Yes, Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Smitty,
Thank you for the links


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *And Some More, Yes, Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


You're welcome! Let me know if those answer your questions!

Oh, and "would you" is right on re: the form of the question, to my way of thinking. "Could you" is asking capability, whereas "would you please" is a (very) polite request for action.


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *And Some More, Yes, Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


I've caught up now Smitty so you can carry on my good fellow. I'm enjoying this build and the detailed photos make it easy to follow.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *And Some More, Yes, Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Glad you made it through, Brit! And thanks for the input!


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *And Some More, Yes, Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


I sound like a broken record.. But it is great fun watching this come together. It looks great Smitty.

May i ask why you used a fence while cutting the dados? I have never attempted them by hand, is it difficult to keep on mark while cutting them? I am as ignorant as they come so i apologize if my question is ridiculous.

Thanks for the series Smitty.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *And Some More, Yes, Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


In a word, Yes. Running a backsaw while attempting to 'split a line' for a dado is best done, for me, with a simple block fence. That way, I'm able to concentrate on keeping the spine of the combo saw against the fence while I worked back and forth. The cut stopped when the spine bottomed out. Easy!

Thanks for the positive comment, and for coming along!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *And Some More, Yes, Carcase Joinery*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Ah, some progress coming tomorrow! Face of cabinet will be 7/8" cherry, so the material prep for that will begin. A sneak peek. Roigh cut cherry in the bench, ready for a true edge:










And with edge through the #8 jointer!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*Back Panel Rabbets, Galoot Style*

EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty

A short update….

I've decided the back will be 1/2" thick, and to set the backing material into the carcase means rabbets. The two side pieces get stopped rabbets; we'll do those after getting the process down on the top piece.

Disassembled the cabinet (in dry fit mode since last installment) and headed to the bench. Set the 1/2" measurement to the fence and the depth stop of the #78, applied wax to the sole and fence surfaces and made quick work of the cut. Used the #95 to ensure the squreness of the rabbet wall… What a fun tool - swirl shavings!










I marked the sides, then, for stopped rabbets. Chiseled in the end depth, and continued with the fillister.










The chiseling wasn't the 'end all, be all' by any stretch, so I moved the iron to the 'bullnose' position of the plane. That worked for one side board, but then the rabbet end switched on the second board so the depth stop was now OBE… Chiseled awhile, then reached for a plane I have openly challenged as being useless: The #75 bullnose. It worked reasonably, I will admit!










Next up is fitting the depth of all inside partitions, and tackling the tambour door!


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Back Panel Rabbets, Galoot Style*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Smitty you are the tool man. Dude I love the 95. Nice job. Thanks for the update.


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## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Back Panel Rabbets, Galoot Style*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


looking good buddy, i was wondering where "we" were on this one. looking forward to seeing it stocked up!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Back Panel Rabbets, Galoot Style*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


The stock-up phase is about as far away as I can see, but it's getting closer with each completed task…


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Back Panel Rabbets, Galoot Style*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


nice display of tools and technique Smitty! so thats how you use the bullnose on the 78! again you teach me something new!


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Back Panel Rabbets, Galoot Style*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Floor covered in shavings, seldom used tools coming out of hiding … looks fun. Good stuff Smitty.

Thanks.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Back Panel Rabbets, Galoot Style*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


I always know there is a smile from your post. Well done.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Back Panel Rabbets, Galoot Style*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


I'm teetering on the use of plywood for the back, knowing it will not be seen inside the cabinet. Is plywood acceptable galoot material, I keep asking myself, or is it a cop out on a tool cabinet?


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Back Panel Rabbets, Galoot Style*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


No T&G plane?


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Back Panel Rabbets, Galoot Style*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Smitty, I use ply all the time. For this application I would even consider lauan. Not much of a goloot factor, but its cheap, looks good enough for the back, is made from mahogany, takes finish well, and is easy to work with. No, maybe its not for show pieces. I made my boys some foot lockers out of luaun panels some 20 years ago. They both still have them. My youngest son still uses his as a coffee table.

So my vote is Yes, its ok.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Back Panel Rabbets, Galoot Style*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Okay, a trip to the shop this AM to check inventory. I have these 1/2" T&G boards… Same material used on the Roubo cabinet… I think this is the stuff for the wall-hung, too.










It's light-weight but strong. Grain not pronounced, almost like poplar or sycamore but it ain't the latter, I know that stuff. Anyone venture a guess from this pic? It's old stuff, from the 30s I's guess…


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Back Panel Rabbets, Galoot Style*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


it could be poplar.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Back Panel Rabbets, Galoot Style*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Don- you are right. If I didn't have these (didn't know how much was left on-hand), ply would be the thing… Thanks for the input!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Back Panel Rabbets, Galoot Style*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Maur, I need a #49 before I can effectively produce 1/2" stock. And I'm working on that…


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Back Panel Rabbets, Galoot Style*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


agreed. If I had those t & g boards, they would be my first choice as well. I've used left over hardwood flooring quit a bit too. I like the t & g for many reasons, but you have them, and they just look cool. I love recycled stuff.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Back Panel Rabbets, Galoot Style*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


One screw at the ends of each, you think Don?

(Framing them into a panel is overkill…)


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Back Panel Rabbets, Galoot Style*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Ah I was hoping to see some 49 action…


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Back Panel Rabbets, Galoot Style*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


I think I'd do 2 screws, pilot and countersunk. Small 1" drywall screws should do. I'd be afraid of cuping with just one.

One in the center if you have a permanent shelf.


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Back Panel Rabbets, Galoot Style*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Huzzah for the T&G!

If anyone knows poplar it is Don.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Back Panel Rabbets, Galoot Style*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Outstanding!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Back Panel Rabbets, Galoot Style*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Some variation in widths, these will do fine.


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## affyx (Jan 1, 2008)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Back Panel Rabbets, Galoot Style*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


really enjoying this series, thank you


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Back Panel Rabbets, Galoot Style*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Hey, welcome to the Forum, JC. Thanks to Bertha and Tony, too, for checking in. Heading to the shop in a few to get some cuts in! Hot time on a Saturday Nite!


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Back Panel Rabbets, Galoot Style*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Great progress Smitty! Those boards look great. I'd definitely go with two screws in each board too.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Back Panel Rabbets, Galoot Style*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Update on the way later this week, re: carcase back. Thanks, Andy!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Back Panel Rabbets, Galoot Style*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


I'm planning to use old, slotted 1" wood screws to set the back boards in place. But, they're kinda rusty…










Time for an ER bath!










Now they'll be ready when the time comes…


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*Carcase Glue-up!*

EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty

Oh, yeah, it's time to stop cutting bait and 'fish' for a next-level assembly with this project. In other words, this carcase has been apart and together a bunch of times for marking, cutting, and fitting rabbets and dados. All of those shelves and partitions are at the ready; there's nothing more do do with the carcase apart that can't just as well be done while it's together. In the meantime, I have T&G back-cabinet material as well as face framing that needs to be done with the carcase is in a single, assembled form.

The mini-bank of inside drawers has been glued up.










Here's the sum of the parts as they sit at the beginning of this process:










I've placed a number of clamps and cauls at the ready to keep things moving once the half-blind dovetails at the top of the carcase are glued up.










From there the bottom 'shelf' will be glued into place along with the stopped dado middle shelf that divides the bottom of the cabinet from the doored top portion. A concern is ensuring the case is set square by the end of all clamping. A prelim measure tells me one diagonal was 55 7/8" while the other was a bit longer than that:










So ready the long bar clamps, then, to draw up the diagonals as required…

Gluing the half-blinds:




























Then glued up the much-less exciting bottom and middle shelf pieces. The Titebond woodglue has a setup time that I've learned to take advantage of - there's time to get things set where I want them before applying clampage. Lots of clamps, including a single bar clamp to pull things into square. About an eighth inch was all that was needed. I ensured the shelves were totally flush with what will be the front of the tool cabinet (which is the bottom as the unit sits on the assy table).










Wiped all joints with a wet rag, all is set and ready for the second round of adhesive work: Adding the inside-the-cabinet small drawer bank to the assembly as well as setting the vertical partitions that define the spaces for the twin jack planes.


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Carcase Glue-up!*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


To square the carcass, the clamp is placed on the diagonal that measured long, correct?

Good to see it coming together.

Thanks Smitty.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Carcase Glue-up!*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


That is correct, Tony. All the clamps make it tough to get a clear measure, but that's what I did to pull it into square.

Yes, I'm happy with the progress, too.  Glad you're enjoying!


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## Robsshop (Apr 3, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Carcase Glue-up!*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Starting to look like something now there Smitty,once again impressive tool work. Keep up that labor of love !......ROB


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Carcase Glue-up!*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Thanks, Rob! I'm anxious to get started on a few features of the cabinet that are stuck in my mind to this point that, if I pull it off, will make the build really cool…


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## SamuelP (Feb 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Carcase Glue-up!*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Smitty, How do you like those pipe clamps? I need to add clamps to my shop and I have been thinking about getting some pipe clamps.

Now everyone can see what fuels you shop; Bush light and Folgers.

Great blog to work vicariously through, thank you.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Carcase Glue-up!*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Sam, I'm a firm pipe clamp guy… They deliver all I need in terms of clamping capability, plus they're relatively cheap and Pony brand is made in the US.

Thanks for noticing the empty box. It's this spring's Shop Beer . Glad you're enjoying the series, thanks for reading!


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Carcase Glue-up!*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


You're getting there Smit. Its looking good.

Sam, I like pipe clamps myself. They are cheap (by comparison) You can usually find them used, and with pipe connectors and different lengths of pipe you're sure to have the length you need.

Just one suggestion, get one brand and stick with it. Pony seems to be the best. I have a few different brands and they are slightly different heights. Annoying for panel glue ups.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Carcase Glue-up!*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


That's a good suggestion, Don, Re: one brand. I'm a voucher for that 'truth.'


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Carcase Glue-up!*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Great progress Smitty!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Carcase Glue-up!*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Thanks for checking in, Mauricio. I typically give myself plenty to time before glue-ups like this one in order to be certain I've done all to the carcase that's best done while it's in pieces. Hope I didn't miss anything, but, it's too late now!

My lunchbox thickness planer shot craps last weekend, hoping to get it repaired and back soon. Decided to use it on the rough-sawn cherry that will be the face frame and door material; too much material that has to be of uniform thickness to address with only hand planes. I'll still dress it / final smooth with the #4, of course, but I'm definitely using technology for the heavy lifting.


----------



## GrandpaLen (Mar 6, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Carcase Glue-up!*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Smitty,

Lots of consideration and expertise going into this cabinet. That old Hoosier Cabinet lives gloriously to serve another day.

"The best part of gluing up, is Folgers in your cup". - Len


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Carcase Glue-up!*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Len - LOL at the glue-up jingle! Love it!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Carcase Glue-up!*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Probably 10-15% of what you see above is from the hoosier, and that's entirely the famework for the mini-drawers. The drawer fronts will be hoosier salvage, and the tambour is, too. The donor had solid oak sides. They've each got some serious wind, and I have yet to figure out where to use them. Bottom line is, there simply wasn't much usable stuff. But I'm trying.


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Carcase Glue-up!*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Nice work Smitty. She is coming along nicely. I love the closeup shots of the glue up. Great camera action.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Carcase Glue-up!*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Taking pictures of a board's end, glue brush in one hand, camera in the other while balancing the board against one knee, makes for an interesting 'effect.' I'm typically thankful no one is watching as I stop to take pictures of otherwise mundane tasks… ;-)

We LJs are a strange lot…


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Carcase Glue-up!*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


I sometimes have to hold something in my mouth. That makes for a strange site for someone to just step up in the shop.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Carcase Glue-up!*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


^ I totally get that statement! Thanks, Dave!


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Carcase Glue-up!*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


You guys are starting to worry me. But I don't feel so odd suddenly.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Carcase Glue-up!*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


More clampage!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Carcase Glue-up!*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


And I love getting sneak peeks at things to come…


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Carcase Glue-up!*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Teasers, cool.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Carcase Glue-up!*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Lots of visual interest with that tambour. Only hope is that this thing doesn't look like a kitchen cabinet when I'm done. Stanley did sell tambour door tool cabinets, though. It'd be cool to find a vintage "Stanley Tools" badges to put on the front of this thing! Have to keep up a search on the 'bay, I guess, for Stanley placards of some kind and work one into the build.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*Backside of a Carcase*

EDIT: Updated to eliminate BP BS. Smitty

Whatever was selected for the backing material of this cabinet needed to add strength, look good and be 1/2" thick. Plywood meets two out of three of those requirements, but I just can't fall in love with the idea of plywood in my tool till. Biggest hurdle with any other material is the work I might have to do to get it to that 1/2" thickness.

I checked the remaining inventory of poplar (says Don W, and he should know) boards salvaged from somewhere, some time ago. This stuff is stacked on top of the hardware cabinet at the back of the shop, and I didn't know how much was up there (out of sight, out of mind). Figures the material is dimensionally spot-on, the boards are beaded and clear, and have a great, old-world look to them. And because they're tongue and groove, they'll add strength to the finished cabinet over straight-edged stock or half-lap stuff. We've got material! With a measure of the cabinet width, I figured ten boards would be needed for the job. I've got that plus a few spares. Good!


















Measured a carcase side to get the length, cut a single board that served as the length pattern for marking the rest. Cuts made on the RAS.










I have two widths of these boards. Why? No idea. But some are 3 1/2"W and others are 3"W. Played around with a layout that minimized waste and kept wider pieces to the left and right. Allowing some 'slop' for expansion, planed off the tongue off one board and the groove from another for the right fit.










The most I could do in advance of having an assembled carcase is pre-drill the tops of each board. In the pic you can see the simple stop I made to set the holes a uniform distance from the top of each board, a distance that met the 1/2" rabbet these have to fit into without splitting when the countersink was drilled. Marks on the stop help set the board for two matching cuts to each board.










I then brushed the dust and dirt from the boards then set them aside. Until the carcase is a single assembly, there's nothing to apply a back to. Good news is, the glue up was over the weekend! The carcase first had to be freed from a maze of pipe clamps…










... then get the mini-drawer shelf and vertical partitions put in place. Run a bead of glue in the dados for drawer mini-bank:










Place the bank and put clamps on the cabinet:










Finally, no more clamps. Cabinet is now as ready for a backside as it's ever gonna be:



















After playing around with measuring and planing over the weekend, the ten pieces should fit nice and snug, with a little play for wood movement. How much will they move? To my way of thinking, one advantage to vintage wood (50+ years) is dimensional stability. I did a quick depth check of the perimeter rabbets, taking a few shavings with the #92 shoulder plane and a chisel. All boards were laid in for final fit check, and install could begin.



















I'll screw them in, with two at the top of each board, one set into the middle shelf, and another one set into the board at the bottom shelf. The 1" slotted screws I'll use are from a flea mkt in North St Louis. Very rusty, so an Evaporust bath was in order.



















After the bath (can you spot the one that's a 'before' example?):










I started by driving the screws in every other hole at the top of the cabinet, then set a second screw in each at the midpoint of the cabinet. Those I knew where to locate because I drew a couple of lines to define the shelf before the backing was laid in. Here's the standard bit in the brace I used to drive the screws. Effortless work, let me tell you. Not kidding. It's a great way to set screws into wood!



















Here's a pic of marks setting the boundaries for the center line of screws.



















With everything 'screwed up,' here's the cabinet with a backside!










And just like that, we have a three-sided cabinet! The whole back will still get a light sanding and a hit of Watco's to seal it, but this stage is DONE!  Thanks for looking!


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Backside of a Carcase*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate BP BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


That is looking so nice Smitty. Truly great great work man.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Backside of a Carcase*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate BP BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Thanks, Tony! I was really quite surprised at the look of it once I had the back installed earlier tonight and turned it around to look the first time. And there's more to come, with a post on the tambour door (probably) next in line. That thing has been an interesting save…


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Backside of a Carcase*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate BP BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


I'm loving that Smitty, those boards look right at home in that cabinet. It's really looking great.


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## racerglen (Oct 15, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Backside of a Carcase*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate BP BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Great Smitty, this is realy going to set the shop off !


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Backside of a Carcase*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate BP BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


lookin good!!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Backside of a Carcase*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate BP BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Heck, it's an inside that's going to compete with tools for looks… Maybe I shoulda used ply after all… ;-)


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## ratchet (Jan 12, 2008)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Backside of a Carcase*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate BP BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Man I'm lovin that olde timey look! It really has a proportional look too it. Looking forward to seeing it wall mounted and full of tools. Thanks for sharing your work with us.


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## BrandonW (Apr 27, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Backside of a Carcase*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate BP BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Nice work, Smitty! That is turning out to be one mighty fine cabinet.


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Backside of a Carcase*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate BP BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Smitty - I was wondering how you are going to hang it, since you haven't allowed any depth at the back to recess a French cleat. Will the cabinet sit slightly away from the wall to allow for the cleat, or are you intending using some other method?


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Backside of a Carcase*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate BP BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Very well done Smitty. I am so enjoying this blog. The T n G boards are nice. I do like that flat-head bit in your brace. I always like looking at the tools as much as the project. Keep us posted!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Backside of a Carcase*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate BP BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Thanks, all, for the comments.

Andy, the backer boards at either side have screws every six / eight inches, so they're not going anywhere when I run some long screws into wall studs to anchor this cabinet at the top and bottom for adhesion to the wall. But that's not all I'll do. The Inspiration Cabinet has a couple of wooden 'brackets,' although that's not the right word, maybe 'plain corbels' is better, doing the serious lifting / supporting of the cabinet. This one will someday get a cabinet built under it to match, but in the meantime I'll anchor to the wall and make a pair of corbels for support.


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Backside of a Carcase*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate BP BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


I like that soluion Smitty. French cleats are great load carriers, but it does mean you end up with some wasted space at the back of the cabinet. Your solution will suit your cabinet.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Backside of a Carcase*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate BP BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


And wasting that space is exactly what I wanted to avoid, you're right. Cleats are certainly sexy, though, and it was a tough call not to do it that way. But it would have mean giving away 7/8" of depth, and that was too high a price.


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## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Backside of a Carcase*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate BP BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Very impressive build…love the use of old woods! But, using rusty screws, too, wow! Great way to add character to a project! AND your local landfill will like it, too…

Love your shop…saw till…plane till…and no chinese peg board in sight! 

Thanks for the inspiration! Looking forward to seeing this cabinet full of tools…


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## GrandpaLen (Mar 6, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Backside of a Carcase*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate BP BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Smitty,
You are my newly anointed 'muse'.

- Repurposing lumber, partially from an old Hoosier Cabinet.
- The fact that you HAVE 50+ year old T & G the right thickness and enough to finish the back.
- The proper size screws, which by the way appear to be circa, same period as the T & G lumber.
- All (well, 95% + or -) Hand Tooled.
- ...and 'Ta-Da' a Cabinet which appears, for all Practical Purposes, could well have been passed down from your ancestors.

Thanks for the journey.
Awaiting the Grand Finally. - Len


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Backside of a Carcase*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate BP BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


lol, terry, I do believe I'm allergic to pegboard… 

Still a long way from filling this cabinet, enjoying the build in the meantime. Thanks for the encouragement!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Backside of a Carcase*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate BP BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Len, thank you for the smile, Sir! 

Yeah, "that I HAVE 50+ year old T&G" is the part that drives my wife nuts sometimes.


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## kenn (Mar 19, 2008)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Backside of a Carcase*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate BP BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


I am loving this blog! Keep us updated because it is getting exciting now.


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## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Backside of a Carcase*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate BP BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Wow Smitty, in a couple of the pics i got a better sense of the scale. This sucker is pretty big. Should hold lots of "stuff"...looks good so far buddy.


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## DaddyZ (Jan 28, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Backside of a Carcase*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate BP BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Very Cool Lookin Cabinet !!!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Backside of a Carcase*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate BP BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Shane - I'm thinking it'd be nice if my assembly benchtop was about 10" closer to the floor. It's actually not as wide as the Inspiration Piece by around a couple inches. But taller, of course. The Golden Ratio was applied to to the top, and that's already evident in the sense of scale looking 'right' even at this early stage.

Thanks, Kenn and DaddyZ!


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Backside of a Carcase*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate BP BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


that is a beauty - love the design, sizing, materials, and all so far.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Backside of a Carcase*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate BP BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Thanks, Purp!


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Backside of a Carcase*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate BP BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


I love it! Your tools are going to look great in this cabinet.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*Reclaiming a Tambour Door*

EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty

If you've been following along, the space at the bottom left of the cabinet is reserved for install of a tambour (roll-up) door salvaged from the donor Hoosier cabinet. Not certain what will ultimately live in that cubby re: tools, but it's inspired by a tambour'd cabinet Stanley sold in the 30s. New, red oak tambour doors (15"x17") cost more than $80 per. Wow, didn't know what a treasure I had back when I reduced the donor cabinet to a stack of component pieces. Treasure… right… 










Anyway, each piece of the tambour's 'track' assembly was carefully removed and set aside for later.


















I've seen two ways to guide roll-top material in the wild: dado cuts and surface-mounted 'tracks.' The donor piece used the latter method, obviously, and I'll do the same with the tool cabinet. The depth of the new cabinet is greater than the original, and some of the track pieces busted at removal. So new stuff has to be fabricated. I used a couple of the T&G cut-offs and traced the curves from the originals before heading over to the bandsaw.


















With the pieces cut, everything could be sanded smooth with my non-oscillating spindle sander / drill press.










Here's how the track should work!










What to do about the bottom of the tambour, which is missing any sort of handle or finger grip for open and close actions AND which doesn't even have a proper bottom slat (thicker than the others, to mount a handle to). I'd like a single pull, or something that is flush to the front of the cabinet, so a solid bottom is required.

A thick piece of white oak is what's called for… To best match the rest of the door, the piece should be culled from cabinet salvage. The Hoosier had oak 'laminated' along the front edge of another type of non-descript material everywhere but on the sides, so I picked a piece of shelf laminate as a donor. Here's a before shot of the shelf board alongside the tambour door; notice the weak-looking bottom slat:










I ripped the oak strip from the larger piece at the table saw, then clamped it to the bench to attack it with the #40 scrub; there's a dado to 'erase' from the backside, and whatever thickness remains is what it'll be.










Followed up with a #7 jointer for flat (sides and edges), and the piece was ready for the next step.


















Added a bevel to the piece by removing the front, top hard edge of the piece. Now to decide on a way to mate this base 'slat' to the door. How about gluing it by way of a rabbet?










Then the question is begged, how to cut a rabbet on a stick? #78 won't work, fence on that is thicker that the material that will remain (I checked, believe me). I could use a sticking board, but don't have one and don't feel like making one just for this. How about a #93 shoulder plane? I'll use a C. Schwarz trick he demo'd in his Handplane Essentials class in 2010.

Start by marking the line of the rabbet, then use a knife to strike it. That gives the shoulder plane all the help it needs: By riding just an edge of the plane along the line, so the corner of the iron is all that's making contact with the stuff, a small groove is cut. (Note it's shown being pulled, just to get the pic.)










I ran the tool across the work a number of times, closing the angle as I went until the sole was parallel to the work and I was cutting a rabbet. Huzzah!










Checked depth a few times as I went, and stopped when the door piece fit nicely into it's new base. It was easy, and took about 4 minutes to do, start to finish. Nice!


















Glue applied, clamped it to the bench, came out looking pretty good. Guess I can add 'tambour repairman' to the ole' resume.


























This next part you may have seen evidence of in previous pics, but didn't ask about because you were too polite. With the cabinet assembled, but before the back was installed, a problem had to be addressed. The rough opening for the tambour is simply too big, by about 1/2". Too much slop, so I found a finished piece of 1/2" maple from the cut-offs bin that was about the right size, sanded off the clear finish, then glued it into place. Now I have the rough opening I need. And a reprise of the teaser shot from Installment #9…










All that's left is some kind of handle, and this tambour is ready for install!


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## GrandpaLen (Mar 6, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Reclaiming a Tambour Door*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Smitty,

My interest and anticipation have morphed into full blown envy of your having the exact tool needed every time you reach for one! ...that, and I'd love to have that cabinet, that close to completion, sitting on my bench.

Success is not accidental. - Len


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Reclaiming a Tambour Door*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Len, you have a wonderful command of the written word; what you write always brings a smile to my face. You see it as close to completion, but I'm busy thinking out all the details that will (hopefully) make this thing crazy fun to have in the shop over the long haul. What's done thusfar gives the cabinet good 'bones,' but what comes from this point is the looker stuff… panel doors, tool holders, maybe a mini saw till, three little drawers inside, and maybe something that slides on the front that's not tambour. Ah, the best laid plans of mice and men…


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## Martyroc (Feb 1, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Reclaiming a Tambour Door*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Hi Smitty, I just read your entire blog series on this, all I can say is WOW! I am a big fan of reclaimed and recycled lumber, so you had me at the first installment. The work you have done thus far is incredible, and its all 100% true craftsmanship. I am excited to see the end result of this.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Reclaiming a Tambour Door*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Martin - Welcome, glad you're enjoying the series, it's been fun so far. And it's nice when things are going smoothly. Not sure if summer will slow progress or not, but one thing is certain: arranging the tools is going to be the hardest to do well and I'm somewhat intimidated by the process of layout and tool holder-thingies. But it'll be fine by the time I get there, I'm sure. Tagging lots of LJ projects and blogs for ideas, certainly. Thanks for commenting!


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## racerglen (Oct 15, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Reclaiming a Tambour Door*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Nice work Smitty, love the save/safe aproaches you're using, just waiting onthe grand finale !


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Reclaiming a Tambour Door*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Smitty, if I made that for my shop, my wife would steal it for the house. Nice job!


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## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Reclaiming a Tambour Door*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Wow, Smitty! Great job re-building that tambour door and adding it to your work in progress…thanks for all the great photos, too. I know they add time to your cabinet, but some of us learn 3 things from every photo you share. Heck, I've never seen a shoulder plane used like that…nice tip!

This is becomming an heirloom cabinet…


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Reclaiming a Tambour Door*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


heirloom cabinet

for sure!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Reclaiming a Tambour Door*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


We'd each like to believe at least one our kids or grandkids recognize the work we're doing today as having value. So yeah, I hope this cabinet doesn't hit the curb on big item pickup one Thursday morning far into the future, but I can't control that. So I'm building it for me. And that's enough for now. Good topic of discussion.


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Reclaiming a Tambour Door*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Smitty she is coming along nicely. Well documented and very interesting to read. You have me hanging in the edge of my bench.
Your Stanleys are smiling to


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Reclaiming a Tambour Door*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


And the edge of your bench is indeed a nice place to be, Super! Thanks for commenting!


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Reclaiming a Tambour Door*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


It was my inability to describe the adjustment you made to the tambour's opening that kept me from asking, my lack of manners being as they are, it had not occurred to me that it might not be polite to ask. Whew! You saved me from revealing my crassness 

Great save on the door Smitty.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Reclaiming a Tambour Door*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


^lol, Tony! Tambour adventures almost over…


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Reclaiming a Tambour Door*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Good show!, I like the shoulder plane trick. I had seen the filler strip in the last pic being glued on but I wasnt sure what it was and didnt ask. Cant wait to see the finished product.


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Reclaiming a Tambour Door*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


I always thought, incorrectly, that those roll tops had some type of mechanical / structural interlock. I never knew that were held together and flexed through a fabric backing.

You are doing a great job.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Reclaiming a Tambour Door*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Why thank you, Scott! Not exhibiting the kind of precision you've got going on w/ your bench build, though. That, Sir, is impressive indeed…


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*Painting the Carcase*

EDIT: Updated to eliminate the PB BS. Smitty

Yes, painting it, so it matches the Inspiration piece. Filler of holes, sanding, oil-based primer then oil-based paint.

Quick set of phots, with another to come first thing tomorrow AM, when the paInt's dry.



















Here's the brown shell with the Inspiration piece in the background. Bottom line is, I want these two tool cabInets to appear to be from the same 'set' when this build is done…


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Painting the Carcase*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate the PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Oh, and I'd forgotten how long it takes oil paint to dry… Still tacky eight hous after application! Turned on a fan, that'll help; very muggy overnight.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Painting the Carcase*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate the PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Smitty paint? It's going to look great.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Painting the Carcase*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate the PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Yep, paint! It's only pine, after all. When it's a look you're after, gotta do what you gotta do. Think of it as the Original, Very Solid Color Stain.


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## GrandpaLen (Mar 6, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Painting the Carcase*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate the PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Smitty, 
Like a Phoenix rising, it comes together, even stronger with purpose. - Len


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## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Painting the Carcase*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate the PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Looks good Smitty. Takes a special kind of discipline to make a painted project. It is easy for me to get trapped in that "eh, wood putty can fix that" mode.

Does this mean stock up phase is emminant?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Painting the Carcase*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate the PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


All front cover still to build… Doors, mostly. Then the, tambour install…


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## jjw5858 (Apr 11, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Painting the Carcase*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate the PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Looks great and nice for the shop! Really like your saw till in the background as well.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Painting the Carcase*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate the PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Thanks, jjw. The till for the saws was a throw-together. Maybe I should prime and paint to match this piece and the other. Hmmm…


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Painting the Carcase*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate the PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Oh, and I'd forgotten how long it takes oil paint to dry… Still tacky eight hous after application!

I didn't see that until now. You must have been posting as I was. Did I mention I hat e paint. 

It is going to be a great addition to the shop though. I can't wait to see what your going to put in it. I'm so out of plane till room!!!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Painting the Carcase*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate the PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Orig is all walnut, no way I'm staining pine to make it look like walnut and i don't want to strip the whole old piece. That said, thinking about stripping just the doors of the old. New front (will be) is cherry, so far. Haven't started on doors yet…


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Painting the Carcase*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate the PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Cant wait to see it with some tools in it!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Painting the Carcase*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate the PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Me, too!


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Painting the Carcase*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate the PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Personally I like a painted tool cabinet Smitty. It's really taking shape now.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Painting the Carcase*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate the PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Andy, I'm with you! Gotta know when it's right, and I think in this instance it is.


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Painting the Carcase*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate the PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Caulk, puddy, paint
Make it what it ain't


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Painting the Carcase*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate the PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Just bustin' your chops. It looks great. Not all wood grain is a thing of beauty. Have ever used milk paint? I had never heard of it until I started woodworking.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Painting the Carcase*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate the PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Not used it, very interested in using it on the right project when the time comes.

Short of my house (reclaimed baseboard in two of the rooms), this is actually the first project I've ever puttied, sanded and painted. Doubt I'll ever use stain the same way since coming here, but paint is okay. Different is good, I say.

Nice poetry!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*Making Boards and Sourcing Inside Drawer Parts*

EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty

A quick and dirty update with pictures of progress made (if I can call it that) since the last installment. And progress has been painful because the lunchbox planer shot craps. Why is that a problem for a galoot like me? Well, the cherry I'd like to use for the front of this cabinet is substantially cupped and 'the electron way' was going to help me move past those flaws. Not to be, so I've been making boards the hard way. In no real order, here's proof.

Using winding sticks constantly, here's a length check, width check, and work with the jointer:




























Here's how bad a crown was, and using the #197 mortising gauge to mark thickness around edges and ends before flipping the board over to work the other side:



















Scrub work, then board shots before final smoothing:




























Edge work, marking to width with my favorite rosewood panel gauge:



















An 'after' next to a 'before':










So I have two boards that are ready for final smoothing. Some tear out and scallops, but they're dimensioned and flat, and are both the same thickness. From these I hope to pull frame and panel material and a sliding door for the double till to the right of the tambour.










For the inside bank of drawers, I was able to find some poplar 1/2"-ish drawer sides that already are dado'd for bottoms of 1/4" masonite (my favorite drawer bottom material).










Used the larger dividers to set the right rip width of the material on the table saw, then used the #6 to joint the edges to final fit (no measuring, just get them to fit right and it's done).





































Next step for these pieces is crosscut to the right length and work them for half-blind dovetails to the drawer fronts. Oh, yeah… Drawer fronts. How about some poplar from the Hoosier Donor Piece? Remember the oak strip ripped for the tambour? Well, here's a remaining run of that board, getting cleaned up and sitting in place as very rough length pieces to be joined to the sides.




























My daughter loves the cabinet so far!


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Making Boards and Sourcing Inside Drawer Parts*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Wow, with your daughter in the pic I get a sense of scale. That is a big cabinet, Your Galootness.


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Making Boards and Sourcing Inside Drawer Parts*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Or your daughter could be really small :^)


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Making Boards and Sourcing Inside Drawer Parts*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


If you look real close, she's holding the #5 jack… Cabinet is shy of 4' tall, but not by much.


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## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Making Boards and Sourcing Inside Drawer Parts*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Good update smitty. Is the lunchbox dead, or just ill? No zero clearance on the TS? Backgrounds of pics, are interesting. This is a large piece. Some pics it looks "normal" size, then in others it looks all king kong.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Making Boards and Sourcing Inside Drawer Parts*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Thanks!

Planer Power switch in-op, whole unit is with a toolmonger for (hopeful) repair. No update yet.

RE the zero clearance, I've never had one. Is that bad?


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## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Making Boards and Sourcing Inside Drawer Parts*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


You should try the zci. Heck, for irony you could use hand tools. Cleaner cuts, added safety, maybe a little easier to judge the kerf. No down side I am aware of.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Making Boards and Sourcing Inside Drawer Parts*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


I'll check availability for my model saw… It's a 50s King-Seeley Craftsman. Cleaner cuts is good!


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Making Boards and Sourcing Inside Drawer Parts*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Smitty you're an example to all of us would-be galoots. Fantastic work my friend and just think of the money you're saving on gym membership. Great progress!


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Making Boards and Sourcing Inside Drawer Parts*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


what Andy said!!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Making Boards and Sourcing Inside Drawer Parts*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Andy and Don, thanks for checking in and for commenting~!

Not knowing how to do something is one thing. Knowing and then choosing not to is another thing entirely. Glad I know how to make a board effectively, it's good practice with handplanes of several types, but I really would have been okay doing these boards via planer.  That said, I think there's more material 'preserved' in thickness doing it this way simply because of the effort involved to take more than necessary vs. just dropping the cutting head a half or quarter turn and running them through again. And that's a good thing.

If the planer comes back sooner rather than later, I'll still run them through with very light passes, to see where I am. If not, the show simply must go on.


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## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Making Boards and Sourcing Inside Drawer Parts*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Progress looks great from here, Smitty! Your cabinet is a bit larger than I thought…


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Making Boards and Sourcing Inside Drawer Parts*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Man, everyone is saying it's big, and based on that last picture it does look kinda huge-ish. But really it's not. Need to stage a pic that puts it into better perspective, I think. I'll work on that.

Thanks, Terry, for the comments! Think I'll invest some time in drawer building while the cherry boards continue to acclimate AND I wait a little longer for the possibility of a planer…


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## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Making Boards and Sourcing Inside Drawer Parts*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Hi Smitty,
I don't know what's going wrong but
- with Mozilla I have no pictures at all
- with MS-IE I just have small rectangle with a red cross in it.

It is the same with your older post although I was able to see the pictures a few days ago.

So I tried others.
I don't have the problem with Nate Meadow's serie "end grain floor" nor with Sheila Landry post for example. 
Did you change anything?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Making Boards and Sourcing Inside Drawer Parts*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Sylvain - wow, that's strange. No change in process re: the way I'm posting to the blog OR in the way the pictures are hosted (photobucket).

For me, Firefox 10.0.1 shows the pics, as does IE7 from this workstation… Sucks you're not seeing the pics!


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Making Boards and Sourcing Inside Drawer Parts*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


For a "quick and dirty" installment, it sure was event filled. The shot of the edge work, with the bench full of shavings and planes is particularly great. Drawer building elaboration would be much appreciated. You are making it look easy Smitty!

Thanks.


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## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Making Boards and Sourcing Inside Drawer Parts*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


I am in the office but I will try home it is 17h25 here.
I hope it will work.
Thanks


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Making Boards and Sourcing Inside Drawer Parts*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Tony - thanks! I'll build these little three drawers the same way I built the ones for the roubo cabinet in Blogs 13 and 14 of that series. I hope this set goes smooth as those did…


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Making Boards and Sourcing Inside Drawer Parts*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Question for the readers - should I paint the drawer fronts and surrounding drawer bank, or put a natural (oil) finish on them?


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Making Boards and Sourcing Inside Drawer Parts*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Smitty it keeps getting better. You should have Popeye's forearms after working that board. I cant wait to seet drawer fronts and that fancy role up thing-a-ma-bob on it. 
Looking very nice


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Making Boards and Sourcing Inside Drawer Parts*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Why thank you, Super! The arms have a long way to go, but the shoulders have indeed complained just a bit over the last few days.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Making Boards and Sourcing Inside Drawer Parts*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


a natural (oil) finish. Could you have guessed?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Making Boards and Sourcing Inside Drawer Parts*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


From you? Oh, probably…  I just have that image of the inspiration original in my head, that's all. It would be a pain to paint the bank now, so your suggestion is at worst the path of least resistance.


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Making Boards and Sourcing Inside Drawer Parts*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


+1 Don


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Making Boards and Sourcing Inside Drawer Parts*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


What a wonderful cabinet, wonderful wood and sweet shaves - and what a wonderful daughter, she smines like a sun on that picture.
I love the cabinet also.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## SamuelP (Feb 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Making Boards and Sourcing Inside Drawer Parts*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


ENVY!!!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Making Boards and Sourcing Inside Drawer Parts*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Hello, Sam! Build is at a serious lull right now, needing time and inspiration to move forward. Hopefully next week, as this one is already consumed with life's details. All good stuff, but it keeps me from giving the cabinet the careful thought it needs…

Mads, thanks so much for those fine words! She is a joy, and spends alot of time visiting me in the shop. My sweetheart, and the youngest! 

Don / Tony: Okay, oil finish for the interior, I get it!


----------



## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Making Boards and Sourcing Inside Drawer Parts*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Concerning painting: personally I'd be flexible. Paint the carcase like you want and then fit the interior components unfinished. If it looks pleasing then oil. I think most of us prefer a natural finish but if the piece is more harmonious with paint, then paint it. We will just snicker behind your back, that's all.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Making Boards and Sourcing Inside Drawer Parts*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


I do have some of that green paint left, come to think of it…


----------



## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Making Boards and Sourcing Inside Drawer Parts*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


I am sure you will do the right thing.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Making Boards and Sourcing Inside Drawer Parts*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


We'll see, just never know…


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Making Boards and Sourcing Inside Drawer Parts*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


finish is a personal preference. So to be clear, I have painted many many many things. I'm pretty sure my dislike for paint is in the actual process of painting and not the outcome. Paint, done in a skilled hand can offer a very fine looking finish. Mixed with some natural overtones and it can become extraordinary.

In all honesty, if that cabinet was in my shop, it would have a natural finish. That just my prejudice Smitty, and not meant to be a deterrent to your taste. I'm certain if you paint it, it will be a great piece you can be proud of. We may crack a joke, but I for one am at awe of your skill at times. Keep up the good work and go with your heart.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*Milling Cherry for the Cabinet Face*

EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty

Pictures tonight, but precious little dialogue.

Lunchbox planer was out with a bad switch, but it came back this weekend. So the boards went through multiple passes then were each given the #4 smoother treatment.










I did move to the #4 1/2 after awhile, and the mass was very welcome.










I ripped a thicker board then did the re-saw of those boards on the old Craftsman bandsaw. When the night was over, the cabinet was covered with the fruits of the evening's labor.










Let the joinery of the doors and facade begin!


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Milling Cherry for the Cabinet Face*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Very nice Smitty. I really respect how you re purpose wood and tools.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Milling Cherry for the Cabinet Face*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


It's getting there. I'm anxious to get panel doors made and work on another 'trick' I have in mind for the jack plane till.


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## Robsshop (Apr 3, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Milling Cherry for the Cabinet Face*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


That is some BEAUTIFUL looking lumber there Smitty ! That will POP when You get to the finishing aspect of your "labor of love", nice progress.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Milling Cherry for the Cabinet Face*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Rob- thanks! Cherry is new to me but I'm figuring it out. Next with the #48 and #45 to do panels and such. Finishing should be a treat too. I'll need suggestions there, as I'm decidedly a novice at creative finishes!


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## Robsshop (Apr 3, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Milling Cherry for the Cabinet Face*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


I believe that some kind of natural oil finish for something like Your tool cabinet would be fitting,but having little experience with Cherry as well, I am just basing my opinion on some of the projects found here on L J's . I have read that Cherry can be difficult to finish(blotching),but not exactly sure if that applies to all or some finishes or perhaps it's staining Cherry that is the issue ? Any ways probably a good idea to consult some experts on the subject as I am positive that You will. Looking forward to Your progress,and keep up with the updates ! ROB


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## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Milling Cherry for the Cabinet Face*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Good to see some progress. Cant be long now. Thanks for the update.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Milling Cherry for the Cabinet Face*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Rob- I agree to all you said! Blotch on this thing would be sad indeed…

Thanks, Shane and Scott for the encouragement!


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Milling Cherry for the Cabinet Face*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


i've don't think I've ever stained cherry (maybe, its something my brain would filter anyhow), but I find finishing cherry kind of nice. Oil, poly or wax all works well on cherry. Take away the fact it burns just by staring at it, it pretty easy to work with.

I especially like how cherry ages. I actually don't care for the light color when its first milled, but it darken very nice in a relatively short period of time. Also if you use oil, I like the way handling it ages it. So on a door piece it will pick up the oil from your hands where you open the door. That for me is a nice patina. For some its a reason to use poly and wipe it clean. Its all in your preference.

I made this for my wife out of cherry


if i had it to do over again I would finish it with oil instead of poly. (Live and learn)


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Milling Cherry for the Cabinet Face*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


No poly or stain, that's for sure. Danish oil, you think?


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Milling Cherry for the Cabinet Face*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


natural Danish, or something with color? Test it, but I think it should work well.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Milling Cherry for the Cabinet Face*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


I'm thinking natural. 3+ coats is the key, I read.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Milling Cherry for the Cabinet Face*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


I always do 3+ coats of any kind of finish on anything. Of course part of that may be because I suck at finishing so it takes 3 coats to be sure everything is covered once.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Milling Cherry for the Cabinet Face*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...




Sounds like me, too…


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Milling Cherry for the Cabinet Face*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Don, that is a nice finish on the Cherry Hoosier above. Wipe on poly is more of a mixture of oils that poly, I think, and I used it on my nightstand. A good there that does not have that plastic look.

As long as it doesn't splotch, I'm good with it. Deeper the 'luster,' the better, too.

But I'm getting ahead of myself. Many steps to go before it gets mounted and filled with tools.


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## carguy460 (Jan 3, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Milling Cherry for the Cabinet Face*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Smitty, I'm getting excited about this project, and I rarely say that about anything! I'm curious to see how you tackle the finish…I've just been "commissioned" by my wife to build a cradle type thing, and I think I want to use cherry. I'm fairly new to all this woodworking stuff, so I've never used cherry before, but it seems like its pretty nice to work with…is that true?

Great blog series by the way, thanks for taking us along for the ride!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Milling Cherry for the Cabinet Face*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Jason - thanks for the comments!

Honestly, I'm still forming my opinions on cherry. As had been said, it burns easily against power tools but the power planer did exceptionally well with it. I need super sharp edges on my planes to work it effectively, and the larger planes are better still against it. Once I get through joinery and finish, of course, I'll opine further.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Milling Cherry for the Cabinet Face*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


I don't think I would say cherry is easy to work with. Note before I said besides the fact that it burns easy. Its a typical hardwood, so you need sharp tools as Smitty stated. It also varies in color quit a bit more than a lot of other hardwoods. It can be beautiful though.


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Milling Cherry for the Cabinet Face*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Smitty, I've done a few classes on finishing and such and that is where I learned the 3:2:1 finish. It is basically the same thing as a wipe on poly. I have yet to stain any thing in my nascent woodworking hobby. Personally I would not even consider staining cherry.

The 3:2:1 is 
three parts mineral spirits to dilute and make workable
two parts poly
one part oil (usually tung)

The first coat is applied with 400 wet/dry paper to form a slurry, then wipe. The subsequent coats are wipe on. I've been very happy with the results. The oil gives you the rich color and the poly gives the moisture protection. Wipe on poly is the same thing but it much cheaper to buy bulk ingredients and mix your own.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Milling Cherry for the Cabinet Face*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Scott - You're right, wipe on poly is expensive stuff. Good to know the recipe above. Heard it a few times, just might remember it (and use it!) this go-round. I'll try the W-D sandpaper too, on a test piece. Never done that 'afore, either.

And for the record, I would not stain cherry either. Nor would I paint it. Well, maybe I would.

Just kidding.


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Milling Cherry for the Cabinet Face*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Just for reference this is the guy ( Greg Paolini )who taught me the 3:2:1. He writes for FWW from time to time. THe 3:2:1 is not proprietary or new. He read it somewhere like Tage Frid or something.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Milling Cherry for the Cabinet Face*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


The Schwarz uses something similar, keeps a ready mixture in a mason jar near his bench (or used to, at least).


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Milling Cherry for the Cabinet Face*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Right. One thing to keep in mind however is to not use the metal lid for the mason jar. It'll get stuck when the varnish dries. What Greg used was just a piece of cellophane in a rubber band.


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Milling Cherry for the Cabinet Face*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


I will have to try the 3-2-1. I have been mixing mine 1-1-1. I would like to know the dry time difference and thickness difference.
Interesting. 
Smitty you are making me want a 4 1/2.
Nice job.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Milling Cherry for the Cabinet Face*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Super, cherry may give me a reason to using the #5 1/2 before all is said and done. Heavier planes are definitely a plus against this hardwood…


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Milling Cherry for the Cabinet Face*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


That cherry is going to look sweet Smitty, I got to the the 3-2-1 one day, maybe on my bench.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Milling Cherry for the Cabinet Face*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


And doing the sanding / slurry would do that 'pore sealing' that I've heard is req'd 

Sounds like a plan, Maur!


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Milling Cherry for the Cabinet Face*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


I will probably do a 3:2:1 on my workbench *top* simply because of the moisture protection provided by the poly. That first coat/sanding is fairly time consuming. The rest of the bench will get an oil - probably BLO or whatever the conventional finish is.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*Material Prep for Panel Doors*

EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty

When we left off yesterday, I had a pile of cherry needing attention. So tonight The plan was to joint whatever I had to in support of the next step in this cabinet build: assembly and glue-up of the upper panel doors.

The panel boards ended up just a hair less than 1/2" according to the measure on the planer, and I arranged them into a pattern that'd look good across both doors (three pieces per door). But some work is needed before I can do the glue up.










I brought the panel boards over to the bench two at a time to match them up. But first, a little soap box dialog if you'll permit…

I see alot of benches discussions here on LJs and elsewhere, with a bit of oversight re: workholding for the edges of boards. Specifically represented by building a bench without a deadman. Yes, there are other ways, with T-tracks or clamps, for example, but the deadman is cheap (free) and oh-so-effective. And it can accomodate the incredibly versitile (although pricey) Veritas hold down (end of soap box). Here's how I use the combo to hold these panel pieces for jointing:










Anyway, the pairs each started pretty rough










But after a work over w/ the #8 each finished straight and square.



















I worked up the faces of these panel boards w/ the #4 1/2 (sorry, Dave) real quick










Then staged each panel for glue-up










A simple way to keep the glue-up flat across (no bowing!) is with grandpa's sandbags. These are each from his shop in the 40's and carry his Cabinetshop rubber stamp.










First time I've used them this way, and had known the real purpose for years. Feels good…

Anyway, here's the first boardset out of clamps and ready for cleanup tomorrow.










While all was clamped, though, there was time for some fun #48 t&g plane work. This plane doesn't blink an eye against cherry (huzzah!!!)



















This done to boards that were jointed, of course. Not repeated here 'cause you've seen it done.

So, the panels are glued up and the rails are grooved. And the inside mates of the doors were jointed and look good.










As a forward peek, here's the bead and rabbet treatment those boards require per the inspiration piece:










That's all for now, but I'll leave you with a pic of the second panel in clamps.

See ya, thanks for looking!


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## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Wont be too much longer now. Look forward to additional updates. Nice use of the sandbags. Taking the galoot index to the next level on that one.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Smitty, I really like your blogs. I agree with the deadman statement. I've built a quick one after building my bench and building a better one is on my todo list. I also need one on both sides of my bench now that I have built the leg vise.

The sand bags are a great idea. I've got a few pieces of rail road tie I use the same way. I never thought of sand bags. So now its a hunt for some flour sacks!

I like the logo on the tote of that jointer.

A+


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Wonderful to see life come out of those boards, almost as Zeus when… aghhhh don't anthropomorphize boards MaFe… Smiles. Love your anthropomorphize text and as aways a pleasure to see life in your shop.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


A few questions sir:

I spent some time making clamping cauls for use with the pipe clamps because they crush the wood fibers. This is not a problem for you?

Did you T&G the first panel?

Do you worry about the wooden supports for the sand bags getting glued to the work piece?

Do you think we should start a Sand Bags of Your Dreams thread?


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## GrandpaLen (Mar 6, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Great 'blog' Smitty.

Great Project, and the Repurpose of some fine lumber.

'Old School' methods, alive and well in your Cabinet Shop, Kudos. - Len


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## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


looking great…thanks for sharing all the photos!

OMG, the price for flour sacks on eBay just jumped!!!


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Actually Terry, I've made quit a few sand bags. I use them for shooting. Take an old pair of jeans, cut the legs, sew one end, cut to the lenght you want, fill it with sand, sew the other end. For double protection, put the sand in a sealed plastic bag first. (My sewing tends to leak after a few years of hard use).

Edit:
should have mentioned Scott, you can quote me in your Sand Bags of Your Dreams thread.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Shane - I used one of them as weight on a cymbal stand for 20+ years, just asked my dad if I could have the second one about a month ago as he wasn't using it. Hoping I find lots more uses, but for clamping assist they seem very versatile. We'll see!

Don, I knew you were already on board w/ the deadman. Now go for the Veritas, man! A late Father's Day gift to self, perhaps.  Just kidding re: have to have one, but it is cool theynwork in 1" material…

Mads, it's always a treat having you stop by, my friend! The boards may have life, just don't tell the planes. ;-)


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Scott - biggest component of the answers lies in the fact that these panels are way over size and will be cut to fit the frames I complete soon. How big will they end up? Not sure, but less than what they are. So any crushing will be trimmed, and likely would disappear in the frame if it weren't. In this case, no big deal, and cherry is pretty tough stuff, too.

The t&g work was against frame pieces. Panel pieces just jointed.

Nope. The support boards came out with a twist, and dried glue is easily scraped off.

Hmmm…..


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## sb194 (Feb 19, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Nice. I like the sand bags. Must feel good to use something that has been in the family for years. Looking forward to the next installment.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Thank you, Len, for stopping by! Nice to be back at these tasks!

TR - all's I can say is, 'Stay Tuned, there's more to come.' (Glad you're enjoying!)


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Smitty, I'm still bidding on the stanleys. Still getting beat, but someday….....

Scott, I'm with Smitty on the cauls. If you need to clamp so tight you have more than a few strokes with a block, you need to spend some more time on the joints before gluing. I never caul unless its an already finished piece, which doesn't happen very often. Maybe one the face of some softer wood if its applicable, but then its just a piece of scrap stuck in between the clamp and the piece.

T&G work looks fun smitty. I can hear the plane through your pictures my man.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Sb, thanks. It does feel good to have them back at their inteded purpose!

Don, I'll keep my eyes peeled for you, too.

Irons in the #48 need a fresh edge before using them again, that may happen this AM.


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


4 1/2 and the 48, you are a teaser. I bet you will wold a hot dog over your dogs head while he dances for 5 minutes.
jk 
Smitty the work is coming along fine and the tools are as always a joy to see in action. I love you blogs you give us enough to understand all the process's of the project.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Thanks, Super! Love your website, BTW. Looked at it this AM, will revisit and register soon. First I think I'll do a video of the #48 in action.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Added link to video at the Bottom / end of the OP above!


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Ohhh!
That's how you hold a plane! Just kidding as always. Nice demonstration. I thought I was watching The Woodwright's Shop but I figured Roy is probably not a Supertramp fan.

Thanks for the video.

I am currently trying to flatten a piece of jatoba for my parallel guide and having such a hard time with it I decided it was time for a snack.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


My son took the vid, one take! He's a regular Cecil B. ! Good luck on your guide, I'm off to jump in a lake, it's hot!


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Great progress Smitty. I'm really enjoying this blog series. I love grandpas sandbags. I use concrete blocks, but sandbags are much cooler.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Thanks, Andy! I certainly agree that progress is enjoyable 

Why wouldn't Roy be a ST fan? (I agree it's not likely, but wonder why not…) does he stick with Eubie Blake or something similar?


----------



## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Eubie Blake. Hmmm. Now you are going to make me look it up.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Ukelele Baby is an awesome number,nlet me tell ya…


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## bhog (Jan 13, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Nice work smitt.


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


I got a Ukelele for Christmas.


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Andy, I demand a video.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


I second scott's request.


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


There is nothing like Super Tramp and a tongue and groove plane.
Nice footage Smitty. Nice groove to.
Thanks


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


especially when your burnin cherry!!


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


I don't mind making a fools of myself in photos on a blog, but a video of me playing a Ukelele is a step too far.


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Come on Andy that is a must see.
Only if you are wearing a Hawaiian shirt.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


^I like that plan, Dave!!!


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Wonderful I'mnot the oly one who still gets high from Super Tramp.
Andy, playing a Ukelele - yes.
Smiles,
Mads


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Oh yes, Mads! Love me some Supertramp!

Everyone else - thanks for watching. My video capabilty ain't much, hope to improve on that though…


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


;-)


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Great to see more progress on your cabinet Smitty. As always your entries are a joy to read and immensely informative. You make it look easy. Video is a wonderful addition to the series. I am firmly in the sandbag fan club.

I would also like to add my name to the Andy Ukelele request list.

Thank you for the efforts and tutelage Smitty.


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Guys, you can beg on bended knee, but it ain't gonna happen.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Andy, how 'bout bended leg? 'Cause Al's got one of those… 

Tony, those thoughts are appreciated, but I'm also of the thought that, of the 768 reads so far with this post, there are scores of LJ readers that roll their eyes at the way I present and do things. That's okay, though, because 'to each his own.' To me, posting and discussing is another way to enjoy the build! Glad you're enjoying!


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


I agree whole heartily Smit. And I drink my beer from the bottle.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Me, too. And the can. Think I'll go have one now, as a matter of fact…


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Me too. No pic's. No pic's and it didn't happen!! I didn't have 3.


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## jjw5858 (Apr 11, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Terrific work and blog Smitty…..all I can add is…...does it get better than all these old handtools…...the 4 1/2 , the #48 and…....Supertramp??......I think not….lmao.

Thanks for the blog, great stuff!

Joe


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Joe, excellent graphic, man! Bad news is, 8-track tape needs a repair so the 'tramp is out of commish until further notice. Metal splice gave out. But as I recall, a spot of crazy glue will fix it.


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## jjw5858 (Apr 11, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Haaa…..8 track I love it! Now that's some old school for sure. All the best I look forward to seeing the next blog. Take care, Joe


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Smitty i was not speaking for any of the other 768, only for myself. 

When i said you make it look easy, i was referring to the fine craftsmanship of the build.

Thanks again.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Outstanding!!!!


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Great blog Smitty! I love how you always put some exotic tool into action. I really want a T&G plane. I like how you can also use them to join parts at 90 degrees.

Question, if you had a #49 would you have used those to join the panels to help with alignment since the t&g is centered on 1/2" stock? Nice sandbag trick though.

I haven't given much thought to the sliding deadman, considered skipping it for now, but I'll be sure to add one now.


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Oh and great video by the way, thanks for doing that.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


I don't think I'd go to the trouble to T&G panel pieces because I don't expect them to come apart. For alignment, though… Hmmm….

Sounds like I need me a #49! Thanks! 

The vid was fun, I need to work on my production capabilities before I can give Stumpy a run for his money.

Exotic? Heck, the #48 is in the top five of my most used planes. In no particular order:

- Craftsman Low Angle Block
- #4 Smoother
- #5 Cambered Jack
- #8 Jointer
- #48 T&G

Close behind those is the #40 Scrub, the #4 1/2 and the #5 1/4


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Just an update. A bit sad, maybe, but here's as the cabinet sits today. Hope to fire up the work within the next couple weeks!


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Sweet! Looking forward to see how that turns out.


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Sweep the floor for gosh sakes!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


No, I earned those shavings and will leave them where they are.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Could there be a little movement on this long-dormant project???


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


I was getting concerned


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Sneaking in some inside, small drawer work. Finally!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Small and thin stuff!


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## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


About time! : )


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Go Smitty. Go Smitty.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Hardly enough to scrape an installment together, and I just realized they're upside down… See what happens when you take time off??


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Wooohooo! cant wait to see some more action.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Noting that a new installment of the series can be found here if interested.


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Just curious, you got a pic of your grandpa's cabinetshop stamp? I'd like to come up with a stamp, logo or graphic some day.


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## davidroberts (Nov 8, 2008)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Video #48, Take a look at my girlfriend, she's the only one I got…

Love it.

Great, great blog. Thanks for taking all the time and effort to document your work and share it with us. I feel privileged. I've only picked up about a 100 or so tips and techniques.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Material Prep for Panel Doors*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That's still hosed, sorry. Smitty
> 
> ...


Thank you, David! Nice to hear comments from from longtime LJs-

I enjoy taking pics and thinking about describing the work as I'm going through builds now. It's become second nature…


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*The Gang of Three (Drawers)*

EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty

Wow, long time between installments here (about four months, give or take) so I must get all four of you on-lookers up to speed.  The last solid activity on The Wall Hung centered on the two large, upper cabinet door panels along with the grooving of the door frame pieces. From those heady days, there began a long period of malaise regarding the Wall Hung. I had to re-shingle a house and three out buildings due to a hailstorm, and a certain legacy Tool Chest hit the shop floor requiring immediate attention. My eyes turned away from this project; it was left to collect dust.




























The cabinet was out of sight (not really, as it's sitting on my assy bench…) but not out of mind. At one point I milled up poplar from the donor hoosier cabinet to use as drawer fronts within the Rack of Three found inside the main cabinet.

Milling, btw, meant running a long piece through the gauntlet of coarse, medium fine as in jack, jointer and smoothing planes. What emerged was pretty nice, and has effected a decision on the cabinet's interior: I won't paint these drawers as originally planned as there's a steak of grain color running across each of them. A nice touch, I figure. Anyway, I also scavenged and cut to length six pieces of pine 'stuff' to use as drawer sides. They each have a drawer-bottom dado already milled in them, saving me that step.

I'll join the sides to drawer fronts with half-blind dovetails. You've seen me do this many times, so I won't bore anyone with extended commentary. But I will point out what's become my preferred method of marking dovetails to cut on smaller stock…

These drawers are only 3" high, so there's not a lot gonna happen with the number of tails to fit in the space. I've seen tail layout with dividers, but I haven't internalized those (easy!, I'm told) steps at this point. What I have done is learned to mark tails using various chisel widths. In other words, for this stuff I picked a 5/8" chisel (Chinese junk, four pictures below is said 5/8" chisel, FWIW… Remind me to search out a 5/8" Everlasting for the beater set…) and marked it as the center tail. A pair of pics show cuts of a drawer pair and all tail cuts made with a clear size difference of middle tail and two side tails being evident.



















The side tails were marked using a 3/8" chisel to divide the spaces left on either side of the center tail and marked lines that would finish the layout. I cut the tails freehand; no dovetail marker in my immediate future. Maybe someday, if I starting building fine furniture… Anyway, without further delay, some pictures cutting waste, sawing and chopping pins and final fitting associated with building three-sided drawers.























































And three sided drawers started coming together!










Backs are more scavenged poplar for the center, and rough-cut pine for the outside drawers, and ride in a simple dado cut into the side pieces cut with the Goodell-Pratt miter saw. I don't know much about Goodell-Pratt tools first-hand, but what I've seen leads me to believe their tools are to woodworking precision what Starrett is to machinists. Anyway, a bit of fettling got the saw set at the right depth and a simple stop block made the cuts repeatable. Cut one side of the dado on all six pieces, moved the block for another set of cuts that defined the dado at a width matching my back material, then removed the insides with the #271.





































With the dados cut, I did one final pass with the mitre saw to cut each drawer side to final length. Why this sequence? I've run into a number of instances where the material to the sides of a dado split out while cutting close to the end of the piece. By leaving excess in place, up front, there was no problem. Cuts were easy enough.










But Smitty, you say, How did you cut the dados in the faces of each drawer? Ah, you caught me… I used the table saw, okay? Thought about using the #45, but it's too much iron. I have a #50 that would perhaps be ideal, but I have need of a second rod before it's useable. So at the TS I set the fence and made a pair of rip cuts, then did cleanup with chisel. That method made the most sense to me, so it's what I did. Thanks for asking! Oh, and no pictures. : - )

Moving on.

I have a habit of using Masonite for drawer bottoms, and I'm using it here too. Three sides of each bottom were cut via RAS, each piece was set into a dry-fit drawer, then marked for cut-off of the excess. I'll hit a small nail through each bottom and into the back (pre-drilling first!) when all is glued up and fit.



















No pictures of the actual gluing, sorry, because the phone went inside for a charge. You do get a bonus pic of 'drawers in clamps' though! The half-blinds pulled in nice and snug with a single Jorgey applied to each drawer; the backs were coaxed into final position with a bar clamp across the lot of them. All were checked for square before and after clamping with the 6" Craftsman combination square. No issues.










Added bonus was the grain pattern across the faces of the drawers, as mentioned in the opener.










I trimmed the sides by clamping each drawer in the leg vise and taking passes with the #62. I an really liking the niche that tool fills: a heavy, handled, low-angle block plane. Perfect for endgrain applications like this, and it's length is good when it comes to dressing sides and ends overall.

Fitting complete, I dropped some scrap into the drawer cubbies and took the final picture of this installment. I'll nail the bottoms and think what pulls to use sometime soon, but for now this is enough. As always, comments welcomed and thanks for looking!


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Smitty the close up shots of the joinery was a thrill. 
Glad to see you are back at what you love. I always have the feel I am standing in a shop about 1910 and the smell of the wood stove is in the air.
A wonderful blog, thank you for your inspiration. Keep up the good work.
I hope all is well with the repairs.


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## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Like a phoenix from the fire, the hoosier rises back. Glad to see some progress, I still look forward, as I imagine you do, to see this bad boy stocked and installed. I may find some inspiration/motivation in it. Thanks for the update, waiting…impatiently I might add, for future installments.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Thank you, Super and Shane, for the encouragement. I'll say there's additional progress being made, so hope springs eternal that this project will reach critical mass in 2012. We'll see. 

I will say that tool layout is the most intimidating part of this whole thing. Don't know exactly how I'll do any of it, but it'll be fun to figure it all out.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Robert, thanks very much for stopping by and sharing your insight re: the FansEdge Promo Code. You 'da man!


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


I think FansEdge is a new type of dovetail jig. If they have a promo going on, I am all in.

The continuous grain flowing across the drawers fronts is great. Thanks for the update.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Gotta getcher snap-back hat goin' on…


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


*Don't be stupid and use it.* :^)


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## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


We we wondering what was happening with this project, but in the mean time we had a lot of pleasure looking to the chest rehab.

As always very informative.
I admire the recycling : not only the rough material but also making best use of already existing grooves.

good lesson for me: the extra length for the dados.
trick : one clamp for 3 drawers

It seems you use the 271 for removing all the waste from the dado. Is there a reason for not taking first the bulk of it with a chisel?


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


this is great. Thanks for taking us along. The shops getting cool up here. Time to get some stove pipe.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Sylvain - Answer for the #271 would have to control of cut (width and depth). I did one pass to all sides, lowered the iron once, and made the final cut. Cleaning dados is just something I use a router plane for, without fail.

Fired up my heater a bit too, last weekend, Don! Cold is coming!


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Another great blog with great pictures, thanks for posting Smitty. Can't wait to see the end product.

That continuous grain on the drawers is going to look really nice but how will that contrast with the rest of the painted cabinet?

I like the creative camping there too!

Boooo, no #45 action shots! Booo…. I just got mine and have had fun cutting some grooves with it. It works great. Don't be a 45 hater!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Well, right now there's no paint inside the cabinet at all, so the drawer grain revelation makes it altogether unlikely. The outside carcase 'sides' are painted, but the front is cherry with a bit of oak (the tambour, specifically) and that will not be painted either. I think it'll be an attractive piece, actually.

Hey, I'm on record (note the lower case 'r') as being a huge proponent of the #45 multiplane! This drawer stock is daintier than any I've worked with before, so in this case I really feel the #50 would have been ideal. Looking forward to getting first-hand experience with it so I'll know for myself. But definitely not a hater, Maur. You actually inspired me to try cutting some 3/4" dados with it last week… I was foiled by a less-than-perfect nicker hone, but that's another story. When I do settle on a method, it's most likely going to involve sawing the sides of the dado and removiing waste via router plane. Because I prep and surface the edges and faces of boards with planes until they're right, dado cutters set at specific dimensions get in the way a bit.


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## GrandpaLen (Mar 6, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


...got my *'Smitty Fix'* on this mornin' ...gonna' be a Great day.

...puts a smile on my face and a spring in my step, headed for the shop.

Another Great Blog Smitty, thanks for sharing.

Work Safely and have Fun. - Len


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


I'm sure it will look great Smitty.

Just breaking your balls a little Smitty, you cant be a hater if you own one. I havent tried cutting dado's yet but it does seem like a lot can go wrong. But Mos makes it look doable.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


In that case, Maur, I'll ask you to cut some dados halfway deep along 3/8" stock and let me know how it goes. I'll follow your lead! lol

Ball busting aside -

I haven't endeared myself to working thin stock with the multiplane at this point. If I had a sticking board, maybe. Combine thin with short (side pieces were maybe 8" long?) and it's less likely a dado task leads me to think, "I'll grab the #45!" 

Len, I hope you're having a great afternoon in your shop! Thanks for stopping by!


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


I have to agree with Dave that Smitty's photos inevitably give me the feeling i am viewing work that happened long ago. It's one of the many pleasurable things about reading these blogs.

It is great to see more progress; I anticipate it similar to a great book doled out a chapter at a time, with a boon of being able to ask the author for clarification if i do not understand something.

I'd like to add a nod to that fancy clamping.

I learned a bunch as always. Thank ya Smitty.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Tony, it's cool you enjoy these installments. I see projects much more refined than anything I could ever do, posted as a completed project, and sometimes wonder about my installment blogs that deal with drawers, or pulls on tambour doors, or the like. Wish it'd move along faster, but then we *enjoy *the process while only get *satisfaction *with the end product. I know which of those two I prefer.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


and sharing the process is a large part of the enjoyment. I especially appreciate your sometime unique implementation of a typical process. Its all about the journey.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


As usual, Don Yoda, you are correct. It's why we're active members of LJs, I suspect.


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Maybe that is why I can't get my bench finished. The journey would be over.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


oh no Scott. One the bench is finished the journey begins!


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


You are so correct….....Don Yoda :^)


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Yes, bench construction *is* different. So get the dang thang done aleady!


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Your my bedtime reading tonight Smitty. I couldn't go to bed without reading your blog. I love to see the use of the tools and the confident way that you approach everything. I'm sure you don't always feel confident when you're doing it, but I always pick up a few tips from you. Thanks.


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


I'm working on it Smitty. The last major piece….


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Where's that going?


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Scott is that the fill piece for the split top?

Smitty - Refinement, forgetting its potential of being arbitrary, has nothing to do with it for me. As you said yourself there is enjoyment in the process and at this stage for me understanding the process is what i enjoy most. Your blogs that deal with drawers, tambour doors or that ilk are very conducive to my understanding, though you might consider them mundane. I am not sure if you are being serious or if your wonderment is a humble 'awe shucks, aint nothin' kind of thing. At any rate your blogs are great and i am obviously not alone in that thinking.
As far as wishing it would move faster, you are talking to a guy that takes an afternoon to four-square one piece of stock; your pace is lighting fast to a monkey like me.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Tony, we could talk about this kind of stuff for hours. No kidding. 

When I started working the lower panel door, as you'll see in the next installment, things kinda didn't go well; the roofing tasks and tool chest refurb (honestly) provided the excuses I needed to essentially walk away from this wall hung build for awhile. When I decided recently to start up again, I went towards drawer fab because that's the part of the build I was most comfortable with… Mundane? Never. Drawer fab is some of my all-time favorite stuff. Unrefined, as you might agree, but detail-oriented. Not mundane, got to pay attention to the process. Love the stuff, and I realize some either can't do it or haven't tried. Those folks are who I write that kind of detail for. To make it approachable, hopefully. Anyone can do it.

I'm serious about the absolute quality and refinement of the projects here vs. mine. But I work with recycled materials for a reason; character is built into the stuff I do with used wood; I just need to preserve, and maybe, just maybe, add to that character to bring it back to useful life. Perfection not required. Someday I'll graduate to finer material, but not yet.

Thanks for the comments. I especially love the opening phrase of refinement with it's 'potential of being arbitrary…' Great line!


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


It is the gap stop like this one. I did not have a whole board to do the job so I am gluing up some cut-offs. Sorry Smitty I do not mean to hijack your blog entry.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Heck no, I was curious what it was, too!


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


My gap stop is going to be full length. I am strongly considering M&T'ing a block of cherry on the end so as to match the end cap. If I do that….I am considering retrofitting an end cap on the other slab.

This will visually tie the two slabs together and more closely resemble a monolithic slab.


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Go for it Scott, although being so close to finished I would probably procrastinate and never get it done.

Smitty what are your thoughts on plane/tool storage? I'm planning out some big changes to my tool cabinet. 
I procrastinated and never finished making tool holders. ;-)










I want to take out the shelves and make a plane till.
Questions:
-Vertical till or slanted - If I slant it I may be able to get in a nother shelf for specialty planes. 
-Magnets for low profile tool holders? Or wooden mechanical hold types
-I'm thinking of adding internal doors to the doors like the latest FWW series. 

















I really like this cabinet a lot and it's given me a lot of good ideas.

What are you planning Smitty? Sorry if you covered this already.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Maur, the simple answer is, I haven't been planning much.

I have specific slots for the #62 and the everyday, cambered #5 jack. When the carcase began to take shape, I started a list of tools to put in the completed cabinet. When I saw a friend's cabinet, I fell in love with the idea of three small drawers on the inside, so I added that because I wasn't far along at that point. It's been in Build mode ever since.

What's going inside the tambour? No idea. Are my bench planes going inside? I think so, but I've not committed to the idea yet because I like having the so very accessible. But the new cabinet may need to go where the open till is now, left of the bench, so I'm leaning on putting them in there. Magnets? I can say with certainty I won't use them over mechanical fasteners. I love the idea of doors within doors; those are extreme craftsmanship in my book and I'd love to think I'm capable of it. But I'm just as likely to use your approach, and start simple, use it awhile, and rework it over time. Otherwise it's paralysis by analysis as Lysdexic might say.


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


I hear you, it was probably better that I use it for a while, buy more tools and then figure out how I wanted t organize it.

The tambour door will be unique and will you many style points!

On the left door I made a long narrow box with some foam pipe insulation in there. It acts as a pin cushion for sticking marking knives and awls and stuff. I dont want to over engineer it. Still like to keep it simple, I'm not trying to be the Studley Tool Chest.

By the way Analysis Paralysis was said by me, used a lot in my field of work. ;-)


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


*By the way Analysis Paralysis was said by me*

Oh hell no! No it wasn't…........... you…...........you…...........confabulator.


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


I was actually inferring that Lysdexic would say it, as he's been prognosticating the imminent completion of his bench since the Carter administration.

EDIT: Oh, and I meant to say Thanks to Andy for the comment! You're right about the confidence thing, but I'm not too worried in that no one is gonna give me grief if I mess anything up…


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


I had Analysis Paralysis today. I wanted to do 10 things and only got one done.


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Dave, in contrast to my day job, I find myself walking around my shop just picking up items only to put them down when I am distracted by something else. This ADD can go on for quite awhile. It humors me in a pitiful kind of way.


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Smitty do you have Jim Toplins Tool Box Book? If not you *have to * get it. It covers Chest, Wall Cabinets, Traveling boxes, you name it. Most the areas you play in. I got it for like $15 w/shipping used off of Amazon. 
The eye candy alone is worth it. I thumbed through it about 3 times until I realized there were words on the pages too. ;-) I hear the content is pretty insightful too but I still havent read it yet.

The tool porn is at least at the level of "The New Traditional Woodworker".


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Well Mauricio. If you say so - consider it ordered. Thanks.


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


You wont regret it.


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


You wont regret it!


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


I really like his "The New Traditional Woodworker".


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


I will get it, Maur. Sounds like good stuff, thanks for the reco!


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


21 Reviews on Amazon, 5 Stars, you can't go wrong with that! 
Mine was supposed to be used in Excellent condition but I would have thought it was new, it even made that creaking sound when I opened it like it had never been opened before.


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


+1 on Jim Tolpin's Toolbox book. Lots of eye candy to give you food for thought.


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Smitty,

One detail overlooked but is very important. The Stanley #203 requires a 1" hole - DUH! All my deadman holes are 3/4".


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


I'll find a picture… I made every other hole a 1"er on my sliding deadman…


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Hmm, it is kind of pain to go back and re- drill holes. I am considering just making one column of holes 1" and keeping the other column 3/4". Conversely I could grind the hook down to fit the existing holes but that doesn't sit right. Or give up on the #203.


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## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Yeah, Toob Box Book is awesome…there are words on the pages? Still hadn't noticed them.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


One row would be fine. Too many holes is easy and quite painless in a deadman.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Gang of Three (Drawers)*
> 
> EDIT: Updated pic links to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


I know, it's been too long in the making, but another installment is here.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*Tambour Door Install w/ Video*

EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty

The wall hung has suffered from extreme neglect, but some progress was made over the Holiday Break. So, an installment! Here's the cabinet in raw form: No doors, no drawers, no tambour.










Here's the door to be installed to slide and close the lower left corner opening. It's been patiently waiting for me to give it any attention, and finally the time came.










I saved the radius turns from the original Hoosier top, and those were used to trace top radius corners as well as the inside turn pieces cut.





































The pieces came together and sandwiched the tambour pretty well.










I started the install by placing the top, corner-squared pieces at either end, at the top of the opening (first applying wax because it won't get easier to wax the parts once in place. I then held the tambour in place and marked the position of the inset radius pieces, predrilled and waxed them, and screwed them into place as well.

The side strips were installed next.










I probably have an anal aversion to the tambour 'catching' on hard corners, so I eased the corners where the upper retainers met the strips.. Didn't need to do that, in hindsight, but it is what it is and there's no downside.










Both ends done, ready for tambour.










It set right in place, and the bottom fit fine!



















At the open position, the corner-squared pieces catch the tambour's 'base' and prevent the door from sliding up and out of sight.










I'm digging this!

EDIT, ADDED VIDEO:


















And the whole cabinet looks good, pictured as I stood on top of the assembly table and looked down. I've arranged the cherry pieces that define the door openings and panels that are the tasks ahead. I'm not looking forward to the mortise and tenon work required to make these frame and panel doors a reality, though…










That's it for now, more to come. And thanks for looking!


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## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tambour Door Install w/ Video*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


The hoosier lives! Now we are talking. Good work on the tambour door, cool little detail. You can bang those doors out easy Smitty… : )


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tambour Door Install w/ Video*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


My sawing skills will be much improved when I'm done with these door. Oh, and I need a 1/4" or 3/8" pigsticker… Rats. ;-)


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## BenStewart (Dec 19, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tambour Door Install w/ Video*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Excellent ! Love the post! Good job.


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tambour Door Install w/ Video*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


How many times did you open and close the tambour- marveling?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tambour Door Install w/ Video*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Still counting, I'll get back to ya.


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tambour Door Install w/ Video*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Great progress Smitty! The tambour is a really unique touch. I almost expect to see a loaf of bread sitting behind that tambour for some reason.

Why don't you do bridal joints if you don't like the M&T. That would be more fun saw work and no mortise chopping if that's what you're not looking forward to.


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tambour Door Install w/ Video*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


The hoosier is looking super sexy. I am glad to see it progressing. Thanks Smitty.


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tambour Door Install w/ Video*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


I like bridal joints. I have grown found of joints that are pinned with small multiple pins. In fact that is what paratrooper did for his cabinet.


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tambour Door Install w/ Video*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Sorry, my mistake. He did wedged through tenons. But still…..........


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## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tambour Door Install w/ Video*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


OK, OK…I will throw it out there, why not just use your TS. Pretty simple set up, and accurate. I know, hand tool cabinet and all, but I wont tell on you.


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tambour Door Install w/ Video*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


You could always rent a Festool domino and then peg the tenons with hand shaped cherry dowels. LOL


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tambour Door Install w/ Video*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


I'm thinking M&T because I will have stuff hanging on the inside of the doors… strenght optimized with that joint vs. laps, is the thought.

Glad you like the tambour. It is totally unique, 'cept for at least one type of Stanley tool cabinet sold in the 30s having a whole front of tambour. I've seen one in pictures… prety cool. That told me it'd be an okay acoutriment on my wall hung.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tambour Door Install w/ Video*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


i simply gaze in amazement…..................


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tambour Door Install w/ Video*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


I'm with you Don. I'm sitting here dazed and agog. The man has skills period.


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## WhoMe (Jul 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tambour Door Install w/ Video*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Dang smitty. I just stumbled upon this blog and HOLY COW, this is actually amazing to see what you have accomplished. I would love to have HALF the skills (and tools) that you have for this project. I know that when I build a wall tool cabinet, it will not be even close to yours in character or design. I have learned a lot just reading this blog. 
It is bookmarked now and will be referred to often when I need inspiration.

Looking forward to the next installment.


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tambour Door Install w/ Video*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Way to go big guy. Man you are on a furniture tambour role!
Keep us posted.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tambour Door Install w/ Video*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Gents, thanks much. I just looked at the first installment of this blog and realized I have until mid-March to get this done in anything short of a year… The pressure is on…


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tambour Door Install w/ Video*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


tick tock
there is no hurry
you do it cause you love it


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tambour Door Install w/ Video*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


What Dave said.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tambour Door Install w/ Video*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Sometimes, sometimes, it's good even with a hobby to have a deadline. I'm up for it.


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tambour Door Install w/ Video*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


You can do it Smitty.

For all we know, it could already be finished and you're posting your blog episodes after the event like Mads does. )


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tambour Door Install w/ Video*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Oh, man, do I wish…


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tambour Door Install w/ Video*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


lol


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tambour Door Install w/ Video*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Took a short video of doors in work.


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tambour Door Install w/ Video*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


So cool Smitty!

Such a great cabinet.


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tambour Door Install w/ Video*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tambour Door Install w/ Video*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Thanks, Andy and Tony! I've got the base Hs in place and the mortice/tenon joints of the left stile in place, glued and set to dry. Ready to proceed to upper door fab later today (I hope, in some capacity). Progress!


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tambour Door Install w/ Video*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Brilliant!!!!


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tambour Door Install w/ Video*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


About 20-25 years ago I refinished an oak roll top desk that somebody had painted brown. I can't for the life of me remember how I stripped the tambour. It must have been so much fun I blocked it from memory. You just made me think of that.

I'm liking the looks of what you're doing.


----------



## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tambour Door Install w/ Video*
> 
> EDIT: Updated to eliminate PB BS. Smitty
> 
> ...


Nice Smitty. That is a good looking panel and I like the function.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*This Installment is Not About the Tambour...*

Wasn't long ago that progress got me a tambour and static display of what would someday be…










See the lower right corner of the picture above? Well, that's what needs to be done next, I think. It's been started… Take close look and you'll see two pieces joined together. Improperly. The stile needs to be full length, not dead-ended into the rail. And then there are the horizontal (H) pieces, circled and marked as 1 and 2 in the close-up below.










What's the big deal about those H pieces? Well, it has to do with the inspiration piece. I have to do the H pieces because it's the way the inspiration is; problem is, they're going to be a challenge to 'affix' to the carcase. But that's later. For this episode they're important because I can't mount them permanent-like until I get something done to them that's… kinda… cool. If I can get it to work.

And that's what this installment is all about.

The lower right corner space of this cabinet is earmarked for my cambered jack and the #62 low angle jack. I want that space to be coverable with a door; once that door is built, the H pieces can be put in place, then the upper door space will be defined, and this project will be oh-so-close to completion.

I started with some measurements, then laid out the pieces that would be the door.










I used the double-wheeled marking gauge to set the location for cuts, and got busy.





































And through the magic of the interweb (and with the help of a shoulder plane and a Steel City morticer), a frame was completed in short order.



















Extra 'length' of the frame is for a reason, but first I needed a panel. Because the tambour is white oak, I decided to make the panel the same. Most suitable piece I had was actually from a pallet collected this spring that carried 30lb felt rolls for my roof. It needed prep work, and beveling to fit the grooves cut in the frame by the #48, but material prep isn't a problem.














































Time to glue it up.










With the panel clamped and set, work on the the 'feature' I have in mind could proceed. It'll move along with fewer pictures and step-by-step, but "Oh, well." The key piece of equipment for this stage of the build was the Craftsman shaper. Some fettling with the jointer cutter set me up with 'tongue' extensions at the top and bottom of the panel.










With the tabs cut, it was time to cut tracks in H1 and H2, so the panel door could slide back and forth, in front of the tambour. Yep, that's the 'feature' I've envisioned for a very long time… Some marking first, because these tracks will be stopped dados, essentially.



















Some chiseling at the ends was needed, but with the right chisel and mallet, no problem.





































So there's a panel, and a groove. By clamping the H1 and H2 boards, I could test the concept!










It slides open just right!



















Sweeeeet!



















So that's all for now. Thanks for looking at this long installment! Next is upper doors, I hope. Until then…


----------



## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This Installment is Not About the Tambour...*
> 
> Wasn't long ago that progress got me a tambour and static display of what would someday be…
> 
> ...


Nice panel door there. Did you do it all plane?

I also really like that idea of the sliding door. I don't like "door pulls" so anything that can eliminate those are cool with me, and that is just sweet


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This Installment is Not About the Tambour...*
> 
> Wasn't long ago that progress got me a tambour and static display of what would someday be…
> 
> ...


Hey Mos, thanks! What's your question (don't understand…)

The sliding door has been a 'plan' for a long time. Glad it's in place. I will add a clean out hole at either end of the lower track before all is said and done, for dust and other debris to have a place to go over time. Oh, and wax the track and tongues before final assy.


----------



## BTimmons (Aug 6, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This Installment is Not About the Tambour...*
> 
> Wasn't long ago that progress got me a tambour and static display of what would someday be…
> 
> ...


I think what Mos meant was, was the panel shaped entirely with hand planes.


----------



## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This Installment is Not About the Tambour...*
> 
> Wasn't long ago that progress got me a tambour and static display of what would someday be…
> 
> ...


Yup, Brian hit it on the head. I was curious if use you handplane(s) to make the whole panel.

Looks like it was well thought out, and you've got a solid plan in place


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This Installment is Not About the Tambour...*
> 
> Wasn't long ago that progress got me a tambour and static display of what would someday be…
> 
> ...


Nice wotk, Smitty! Thanks again and again for all the photos…you are teaching more LJ's than just ME, I bet!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This Installment is Not About the Tambour...*
> 
> Wasn't long ago that progress got me a tambour and static display of what would someday be…
> 
> ...


Yep, it was. But for the 'tongues' on the shaper…


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This Installment is Not About the Tambour...*
> 
> Wasn't long ago that progress got me a tambour and static display of what would someday be…
> 
> ...


Thanks Terry and Mos. I'm sure this 'look' is not everyone's cup o' tea, but that's okay. Really fun stuff is like the panel, as Mos wondered. Yesterday am, four boards. A T&G plane, a jack plane, and a backsaw later and I have a panel door. Love that…


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This Installment is Not About the Tambour...*
> 
> Wasn't long ago that progress got me a tambour and static display of what would someday be…
> 
> ...


Yeah…now we are cooking. The sliding door over the tambour is a great feature. Are the top two doors going to be traditional hinge type swing doors? Have you got all your interior cubbies/storage areas planned/spaced out?

"this look may not be everyone's cup o' tea"...maybe Smitty, but what makes it great is that there are so many looks and styles. Would be boring w/o diversity. I like "your style" because it IS different than mine. You give me a new look or path to consider.


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This Installment is Not About the Tambour...*
> 
> Wasn't long ago that progress got me a tambour and static display of what would someday be…
> 
> ...


Great blog Smitty, your packing all kinds of uniqueness into this cabinet. Tambour Doors, Sliding Frame and Panel doors…. Its going to be one of a kind.

How is the mallet holding up against the hornbeam chisel handles? I know it's a losing battle but it doesn't seem to be getting too beat up.


----------



## bhog (Jan 13, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This Installment is Not About the Tambour...*
> 
> Wasn't long ago that progress got me a tambour and static display of what would someday be…
> 
> ...


This thing is going to be sweet!!


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This Installment is Not About the Tambour...*
> 
> Wasn't long ago that progress got me a tambour and static display of what would someday be…
> 
> ...


You use a mortiser, huh? I'll be damned.

Your blogs are such a joy to read. Stunning pictures to complement the brilliant work.

It looks great. Thanks Smitty.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This Installment is Not About the Tambour...*
> 
> Wasn't long ago that progress got me a tambour and static display of what would someday be…
> 
> ...


"Have you got all your interior cubbies/storage areas planned/spaced out?"

Ha ha ha ha….

I have spent zero time on layout… Heck, I don't have a space of wall cleared at this point. One thing at a time, and that thing right now is getting this base with both H pieces set and final, so doors can be made to the right size.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This Installment is Not About the Tambour...*
> 
> Wasn't long ago that progress got me a tambour and static display of what would someday be…
> 
> ...


If it was me, I'd hang it and move it 3 times anyhow.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This Installment is Not About the Tambour...*
> 
> Wasn't long ago that progress got me a tambour and static display of what would someday be…
> 
> ...


Some progress yesterday on H#1 placement, and M&T joints of left-most vertical stile. Rabetting the bottom tambour at the left end for sliding under said stile. Installment to come when base of cabinet (tambour, panel and H rails) is final. And that includes finish on tambour, as that should be done before it gets forever encased in the base.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This Installment is Not About the Tambour...*
> 
> Wasn't long ago that progress got me a tambour and static display of what would someday be…
> 
> ...


Smitty I am fascinated with with all construction of raised panel doors. I love your step by step.
This is going to be a very nice piece when your done.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This Installment is Not About the Tambour...*
> 
> Wasn't long ago that progress got me a tambour and static display of what would someday be…
> 
> ...


Super, I appreciate you taking the time away from ironmongering to comment!  These doors are flat on their face, beveled on the inside as required to fit in the grooves. It's per the Inspiration Piece, and a really neat 'hand tooled' way to do panel doors.

New installment, BTW, is here.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This Installment is Not About the Tambour...*
> 
> Wasn't long ago that progress got me a tambour and static display of what would someday be…
> 
> ...


Got ya headed that way.
ironmongering. I like that word.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *This Installment is Not About the Tambour...*
> 
> Wasn't long ago that progress got me a tambour and static display of what would someday be…
> 
> ...


Looks so cool, cant wait to see the final result.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*Getting the Face on the Base*

There's been more progress in the last several days than in the several months previous, so here goes another installment…

When we spoke last, the Venerable Wall Hung Hung Tool Cabinet was where it has been for nearly ten months: on it's back, on top of my assembly bench. The tambour has been fitted, and the sliding plane till door is in working order, albeit bounded by f-clamps and a certain, left-most stile.










Oh, the stile. Here it is, and without any detail (sorry), this is the piece that was M&T'd into the H1 and H2 rails earlier today AND glued into place between said rails.










Before the base could get a face, though, a few things had to be addressed. First, the tambour base, or doubler, that was so lovingly added within Episode #11 now is a challenge to be dealt with. On the door side, without you knowing it, I cut a vertical rebate to the backside of the left side of the sliding door to allow the tambour base to move up and down without issue. There's also a rebate across the base of said sliding door, on the inside, to allow the door to slide in front of the tambour base. Whew… It's not pretty, let me tell you. Someday I'll take a picture, perhaps, but I haven't yet. Anyway…

Said tambour base needs an adjustment now for the left stile to placed in a permanent fasion. Rather than rabbet the stile on it's backside (which hurts, truth be told), I opted to flatten the face of the tambour base. A gents dovetail saw (older Disston, flea market find) made a series of cuts, with a chisel follow-up to get 'er done.



















With that addressed, it was time to set on the path of affixing the base face to the carcase. The Inspiration Piece (you do remember the Inspiration Piece, don't you??) features an upper and lower set of rails that are face-mounted somehow. I say that because there's end grain on either side of the cabinet for each, and because the cabinet is painted I'm guessing it's nailed. Heck, it has to be; there's nothing else that could be keeping said rails in place. Well, I'm not painting the cherry face on this cabinet, but still have to keep the rails in place. The top rail of the entire carcase was nailed with vintage cut nails months ago, and those nails will be covered with a piece of moulding. The bottom rails don't need nail heads or putty filler, though. So I've opted to drill and use cut plugs. Wow. Long paragraph. How about pics?

Marked the locations of four screws, one on each corner of the base face (it's a fun rhyme, okay?). Drilled for 1 1/2" stainless steel screws, and the plugs were cut from a misc. cherry cut-off with similar grain and color. Glue squeeze out visible in the second pic, BTW…



















With the glue and screw set, a few hours later, I could stand the cabinet up for the first time in a long time. The four holes are visible; I won't plug those until I take the face off one more time for smoothing and final fitting with a low angle plane of one kind or another…










Not bad!

The workbench, on the other hand, was a mess.










Most of these tools weren't needed to complete the one additional task on tap for today, so I played 'put away' for the next few minutes before moving (finally!) to the upper doors. A couple of details are needed where the doors come together in the center of the cabinet opening, and for those specifics we have to go back to the Inspiration Piece (you do remember it NOW, right??). Here's the center stile from the right-side door of the Wall Hung, in front of the same piece on the vintage cubby cabinet. See what I need?










Yep, a bead. I have a beading iron on the #45, but the track it leaves is too wide vs. what's on the Inspiration Piece. Ditto the irons with my #50. What then? Well, I've been wanting to use a certain moulding plane, so after a bit of honing and a practice run on cherry scrap, here we go…



















A few more swipes, and that was that!










"That'll do, Donkey. That'll do…"










Making the rabbet needed on the other door was 'no big whoop,' as we used to say. I used the #50 on the left and right 'center stiles,' did a little clean-up with the #79, and the overlap feature was complete.










Time for haunched M&T work on these door pieces! After some final measuring, this is where I left things for the night. Until next time, thanks for looking!


----------



## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Getting the Face on the Base*
> 
> There's been more progress in the last several days than in the several months previous, so here goes another installment…
> 
> ...


Nice Smitty.

The bead and the rabbet are for doors for the upper compartment?

Are you planning some crown molding like the inspiration piece? If so, that will be a great exercise in planing.


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Getting the Face on the Base*
> 
> There's been more progress in the last several days than in the several months previous, so here goes another installment…
> 
> ...


Nice. You got a space for this beast picked out yet? Looks like it will be heavy. Hopefully you will hit a few studs. Any thought for a base, maybe like a set of drawers, lowboy style?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Getting the Face on the Base*
> 
> There's been more progress in the last several days than in the several months previous, so here goes another installment…
> 
> ...


Yes, I should have made that clear I suppose. The rabbet is the start of the upper doors. And I will have a simple piece of (stepped?) cove moulding up top, like said piece does.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Getting the Face on the Base*
> 
> There's been more progress in the last several days than in the several months previous, so here goes another installment…
> 
> ...


"Any thought for a base.."

Boy, that's a Shane push like I've never seen.

(Actually, it's built with one of those in mind. But it's a someday. Big time someday. But I like the way you think!)

I needs to be next to the bench, and to the right is the door. So the left side is where I currently have my open plane 'till', then, that will have to go. It'll also force the drill press and mortiser out of place. Mounting won't be a concern; I know how to do that and ensure plenty of support. And once it's full, oh yeah, it'll be a beast.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Getting the Face on the Base*
> 
> There's been more progress in the last several days than in the several months previous, so here goes another installment…
> 
> ...


Smitty I like to see those molding planes singing.
I would slap some substantial legs on it so you can clean under it.
It is looking like new antiques in the makings to me.
Returning to ironmongering.
TatA


----------



## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Getting the Face on the Base*
> 
> There's been more progress in the last several days than in the several months previous, so here goes another installment…
> 
> ...


I knew I could find that #62 - messy workbench, far end. Don't tell me that you did know.

Do you have ideas as to the layout and contents of said tool cabinet?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Getting the Face on the Base*
> 
> There's been more progress in the last several days than in the several months previous, so here goes another installment…
> 
> ...


? Where's the #62 in those pics ?

Ah, under the forstner bit set! I really didn't know it was there, Yo!

I really have no idea where things are going when the time comes. I spend some time making a list of things I'd like to have go inside, but it's been awhile. I know the kind of tool arrangements I prefer: tight, and nested, and hinged. So when the build is done, I'll do some layout and proceed. Up to this point it's been all about getting rid of the old hoosier top while making something useful. The design and build so far has been alot of fun. Layout is intimidating, but when that time comes I'll have fun with it, too.

Got suggestions? Any one piece you've run across really ring your bell?


----------



## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Getting the Face on the Base*
> 
> There's been more progress in the last several days than in the several months previous, so here goes another installment…
> 
> ...


The picture of it standing up looks awesome already. Nice work.


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Getting the Face on the Base*
> 
> There's been more progress in the last several days than in the several months previous, so here goes another installment…
> 
> ...


It is really coming together beautifully Smitty.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Getting the Face on the Base*
> 
> There's been more progress in the last several days than in the several months previous, so here goes another installment…
> 
> ...


Top door M&T joints next, as the overlapping rabbets of the upper doors is done.



















Tenons to extend into the stiles about 2/3rds the width of said stiles, because I can't trust myself to do quality through mortices. Just need them to be a firm fit, and we're good. Tested the fit of my larger jointer planes; the #8 has a home, but the #7 not so much. That's okay, though. The tool chest will get the #7 in that case.


----------



## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Getting the Face on the Base*
> 
> There's been more progress in the last several days than in the several months previous, so here goes another installment…
> 
> ...


Suggestions? No. But in the realm of shop fixtures, a tool cabinet is my next big challenge.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Getting the Face on the Base*
> 
> There's been more progress in the last several days than in the several months previous, so here goes another installment…
> 
> ...


I still value the cabinet under the bench more highly than anything at this point for everything other than hand planes. Just sayin.


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Getting the Face on the Base*
> 
> There's been more progress in the last several days than in the several months previous, so here goes another installment…
> 
> ...


very nice work, Smitty! That cabinet now looks huge!

I can't wait to see all the dovetailed drawers and indivdual compartments for your vintage tools…


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Getting the Face on the Base*
> 
> There's been more progress in the last several days than in the several months previous, so here goes another installment…
> 
> ...


Thanks, Terry! All the talk of tool layout has my head spinning. I may have created a planning and layout monster, the likes of which I have never seen before… lol


----------



## iceman50 (Jan 9, 2013)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Getting the Face on the Base*
> 
> There's been more progress in the last several days than in the several months previous, so here goes another installment…
> 
> ...


Nice project. I have seen it personaly


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Getting the Face on the Base*
> 
> There's been more progress in the last several days than in the several months previous, so here goes another installment…
> 
> ...


Thanks, Iceman!


----------



## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Getting the Face on the Base*
> 
> There's been more progress in the last several days than in the several months previous, so here goes another installment…
> 
> ...


Welcome Iceman50. Your first post is on Smitty's blog? You must know somebody.


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Getting the Face on the Base*
> 
> There's been more progress in the last several days than in the several months previous, so here goes another installment…
> 
> ...


Tool layout: I keep thinking and thinking about this as if there is some magic or mystery to it - so many variables present and future. It is the plane till that dominates because it takes so much room and gets heavy fast. I imagine a tool cabinet that spans 9 feet across and consist of three separate components. What concerns me most is the weight because it has to be wall hung.

Yea, it makes my head spin too.

EDIT: After re-reading this post - It is quite useless. Mark it up to thinking out loud.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Getting the Face on the Base*
> 
> There's been more progress in the last several days than in the several months previous, so here goes another installment…
> 
> ...


Scotty, there's gonna be some elements of the Anarchist coming out of this. Can't have every bench plane in this thing. Really. So it's, "Which ones do I need in here?" We've talked many, many times of 'favorites,' and here's where it comes to the front in a practical sense.

I won't have a 5 1/2 in here, or a 7, or a 3. Which smoothers? Which chisels? How many saws, really, should be in here? Etc., Etc., Etc…


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Getting the Face on the Base*
> 
> There's been more progress in the last several days than in the several months previous, so here goes another installment…
> 
> ...


Its looking great Smitty! That bead really adds a nice touch. Where is the spot for the #164?


----------



## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Getting the Face on the Base*
> 
> There's been more progress in the last several days than in the several months previous, so here goes another installment…
> 
> ...


I am making a spot for his 164 In my cabinet.


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Getting the Face on the Base*
> 
> There's been more progress in the last several days than in the several months previous, so here goes another installment…
> 
> ...


Since I haven't heard anything about him putting a lock on this bad boy. I may go ahead and make a spot in my mythical cabinet for his #164 and #62…just sayin'. Gotta keep that goodness under lock and key, you know the kind of people that frequent this place.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Getting the Face on the Base*
> 
> There's been more progress in the last several days than in the several months previous, so here goes another installment…
> 
> ...


Installment 22: Finishes and Hardware. That's where I hope to show the installation of locks on the sliding till and the upper doors. 

Now I need a #64 and #162.

(Does a #162 exist???)

Just kidding.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Getting the Face on the Base*
> 
> There's been more progress in the last several days than in the several months previous, so here goes another installment…
> 
> ...


Progress. New installment soon.


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Getting the Face on the Base*
> 
> There's been more progress in the last several days than in the several months previous, so here goes another installment…
> 
> ...


Woot.


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Getting the Face on the Base*
> 
> There's been more progress in the last several days than in the several months previous, so here goes another installment…
> 
> ...


Common Smitty, don't be teasing us!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Getting the Face on the Base*
> 
> There's been more progress in the last several days than in the several months previous, so here goes another installment…
> 
> ...


Sorry, Maur!

The doors are nearly finished, but now I'm away from the shop for the weekend. Driving me nuts. But I hop to post an ibstalllment tonight…

Steel city mortiser has issues, too, but it limped over the finish line. Thankfully.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Getting the Face on the Base*
> 
> There's been more progress in the last several days than in the several months previous, so here goes another installment…
> 
> ...


Cant wait!
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Getting the Face on the Base*
> 
> There's been more progress in the last several days than in the several months previous, so here goes another installment…
> 
> ...


New installment has been posted!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*M&T Work on Panel Doors, with Video*

Began work on the upper doors of the Wall Hung towards the end of Episode 19 by creating a bead detail on the right door while telling you of a rebate needed at the left door.










No pics cutting the rabbet, but the center stiles come together just fine.










All four stiles for the upper doors were cut to rough length and grooved for floating panels 'too long ago' to remember…










The rail boards were measured and marked for their rough cuts; those are the pieces that need tenons and will be featured in my first iMovie.




























The details of the pre-cut panel grooves were transferred to the #198 mortising gauge, then the ends of each rail board were marked accordingly. What I didn't picture was the marking of the outside cut-offs from said rails; those marks were made with a third gauge so the measure would be steady to all eight board ends.










With all marks made, I could cut the tenons. The boards were clamped one at a time in the leg vise of the bench for work, but before sawing began I registered the cuts to be made with chisels notches. This is (I think) what Schwarz would refer to a the beginnings of a second class saw cut in that these aren't show joints but accuracy matters, and by notching it's clear to the saw how to begin.

Setting the notches and making the deep tenon cuts is seen in the longest four minutes you'll ever spend watching workshop video. And without further delay, here's my first workshop iMovie...






So at the end of the movie were still shots that tried to relay cutting the cheeks of the tenons. The import picture was this one:










Before registering the rail to the bench hook and getting busy with the backsaw, I used the saw to start the cut while the piece extended plenty far from the bench hook's back fence. Why? So I could see what I was doing, mostly. And it worked wonderfully. Once the cut was started (again channeling The Schwarz saying, "Nibble, nibble, nibble…"), the piece was placed fully into and against the hook and the saw was worked along the marked line to get all straight for the rest of the downward cut. I thought it went well for each of the sixteen cuts made this way, and before you knew it I was ready for mortises.



















Oh, wait. These were haunched tenons. Two pictures should make the marking and cutting of those clear, right?



















I cleaned them up with a chisel during final fitting as required, FYI…

So, regarding mortise cutting. I used the Steel City and had no issues. Well, some issues. Okay, I broke the mortiser. Twice. First, the cheapo plastic cam that holds the stand-off rod stripped, making adjustments a pliers-required affair. Yuck. Then the 'shock absorber,' or compression system, failed in the down position, and when I pulled the head up, it broke free at both 'yokes.' Oh well. At least it could be used (and was used) to complete the job. Only one picture of a mortise, and it's a bad one. Bad picture, that is. The quality of the mortise was fine, as the fit was right on and there's lots of places for glue to hold.



















There were fit checks and adjustments with the #93 shoulder plane, as you would expect, but it wasn't with too much fettling that the frames came together and thoughts turned to panels. Yes, the panels I glued up last June. Stickered and dusty, sitting on the lower step of the cast Workmate, waiting right where I left them (man, it's nice having a dedicated shop space!!!)




























First I smoothed them with the.. well… I smoothed them.



















Then again set the #198 for raising the panels to fit (man, it's nice having a dual gauge!!!) with the venerable #78 moving fillister plane.














































Dry fit and the excitement builds!



















Repeat the process on panel number two (oh, and they were 'bookmatched' as best I could back when three re-sawn boards made up each panel) and it looks like I'm ready for glue-up of some doors!

BTW, the location of each rail was marked on the stiles as I checked for square.



















Glue-up of first door:




























Second door glued up:










And some dry time was required… This is what Table Saws are best at, btw, when you have an accurate RAS. 
;-)










More to come, as next time we'll be setting hinges, trimming doors to fit and getting the doors swinging! As always, thanks for looking and comments welcome!


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## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *M&T Work on Panel Doors, with Video*
> 
> Began work on the upper doors of the Wall Hung towards the end of Episode 19 by creating a bead detail on the right door while telling you of a rebate needed at the left door.
> 
> ...


lol and it shows!

You have to set it to something other than "private" or we can't see it


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *M&T Work on Panel Doors, with Video*
> 
> Began work on the upper doors of the Wall Hung towards the end of Episode 19 by creating a bead detail on the right door while telling you of a rebate needed at the left door.
> 
> ...


Okay, I think I figured it out… Let me know!


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## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *M&T Work on Panel Doors, with Video*
> 
> Began work on the upper doors of the Wall Hung towards the end of Episode 19 by creating a bead detail on the right door while telling you of a rebate needed at the left door.
> 
> ...


I can see it now


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## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *M&T Work on Panel Doors, with Video*
> 
> Began work on the upper doors of the Wall Hung towards the end of Episode 19 by creating a bead detail on the right door while telling you of a rebate needed at the left door.
> 
> ...


I watched it, I was waiting for inspirational narration… : )

The hoosier nears stocking!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *M&T Work on Panel Doors, with Video*
> 
> Began work on the upper doors of the Wall Hung towards the end of Episode 19 by creating a bead detail on the right door while telling you of a rebate needed at the left door.
> 
> ...


You confuse me with Stumpy Nubs…

It was a challenge editing footage, getting the two angles down. Maybe should be two minutes vs. four, huh?


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## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *M&T Work on Panel Doors, with Video*
> 
> Began work on the upper doors of the Wall Hung towards the end of Episode 19 by creating a bead detail on the right door while telling you of a rebate needed at the left door.
> 
> ...


I too just finished watching it, nice work.

You can also embed the video into your blog post instead of just linking to it too, if you wanted to


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## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *M&T Work on Panel Doors, with Video*
> 
> Began work on the upper doors of the Wall Hung towards the end of Episode 19 by creating a bead detail on the right door while telling you of a rebate needed at the left door.
> 
> ...


It had some nice qualities, I was just waiting with anticipation for you to pop up with a mug shot and some how to commentary. You know, teach me something deep and profound. The live audience seemed to appreciate your completion of the cut. Hopefully, you can crank out more.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *M&T Work on Panel Doors, with Video*
> 
> Began work on the upper doors of the Wall Hung towards the end of Episode 19 by creating a bead detail on the right door while telling you of a rebate needed at the left door.
> 
> ...


I haven't figured out how to embed the video 'window' in the post yet; so far I've done the whole run, from film to edit to posting, via the iPad, and I'm still writing the installment and posting the pics for it to Photobucket. This is like work!


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## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *M&T Work on Panel Doors, with Video*
> 
> Began work on the upper doors of the Wall Hung towards the end of Episode 19 by creating a bead detail on the right door while telling you of a rebate needed at the left door.
> 
> ...


underneath the video are some tabs that say "About", "Share", and "Add to". It's under "Share" then "Embed". Copy-paste, done.

If you're doing it all from the iPad, I'm relatively impressed. I get annoyed with typing on my tablet, unless I'm using a physical keyboard


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *M&T Work on Panel Doors, with Video*
> 
> Began work on the upper doors of the Wall Hung towards the end of Episode 19 by creating a bead detail on the right door while telling you of a rebate needed at the left door.
> 
> ...


Man, there aren't such tabs within my display… Might have to try a different approach. Yeah, it's with the pad but I do use the keyboard 'base' that the pad docks to (as opposed to the bluetooth ones). It's quite nice to type and touch.

I don't have a laptop worth a cr*p, so the iPad is my laptop.


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## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *M&T Work on Panel Doors, with Video*
> 
> Began work on the upper doors of the Wall Hung towards the end of Episode 19 by creating a bead detail on the right door while telling you of a rebate needed at the left door.
> 
> ...


I had an asus transformer, (still do, just don't use it anymore) and got a Microsoft Surface as a tech gift from work. I had the keyboard dock with the transformer, and a type cover for my surface, and I wouldn't go with out.

I wonder if you're accessing through a youtube app, or something. I don't know much about using iPads or I'd try to help lol


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *M&T Work on Panel Doors, with Video*
> 
> Began work on the upper doors of the Wall Hung towards the end of Episode 19 by creating a bead detail on the right door while telling you of a rebate needed at the left door.
> 
> ...


Ladys and gentlemen may I introduce to you. The first spokesman for the Stanley tool company, Smitty
(applause inserted here)
Oh and a wonderful demo on you sawing skills as well.
Smitty got it up in the interweb and it was great.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *M&T Work on Panel Doors, with Video*
> 
> Began work on the upper doors of the Wall Hung towards the end of Episode 19 by creating a bead detail on the right door while telling you of a rebate needed at the left door.
> 
> ...


Blog posted!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *M&T Work on Panel Doors, with Video*
> 
> Began work on the upper doors of the Wall Hung towards the end of Episode 19 by creating a bead detail on the right door while telling you of a rebate needed at the left door.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Super! Couldn't have done it tonight without your spot-on suggestions / guidance!

RE: the iPad, or I suppose just about any 'tablet…' There are very subtle differences in the way things are displayed and how they work that take time to work through, and this is one of them. I think I'm in YouTube via web interface (vs. an app), and I'm just not seeing what you and Dave each described. I'll hit it with a Windows box tomorrow and see if I can gain some insight and solve the problem…


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *M&T Work on Panel Doors, with Video*
> 
> Began work on the upper doors of the Wall Hung towards the end of Episode 19 by creating a bead detail on the right door while telling you of a rebate needed at the left door.
> 
> ...


Smitty if you are using apps on the Ipad. You are tied to there interfaces. I movie will let you upload directly to youtube from the ipad. Get you a few browsers on the ipad. It comes with safari, go get chrome and may be dolphin. Then browse youtube through a browser. Then look for the share, embed code. Notice when you are on your ipad that in the URL line (the site you are on) it may have a m/ or mobile/ in front of the main sites name like www.m.youtube.com. That is telling you you are using the site mobile interface. There should be a button the site to turn that off or just remove the m from the url and refresh the page.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *M&T Work on Panel Doors, with Video*
> 
> Began work on the upper doors of the Wall Hung towards the end of Episode 19 by creating a bead detail on the right door while telling you of a rebate needed at the left door.
> 
> ...


cool Smitty. I watched the video, it shows in the email, but not on the blog.

The log is great stuff to.


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## jap (Oct 10, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *M&T Work on Panel Doors, with Video*
> 
> Began work on the upper doors of the Wall Hung towards the end of Episode 19 by creating a bead detail on the right door while telling you of a rebate needed at the left door.
> 
> ...


looking good


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## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *M&T Work on Panel Doors, with Video*
> 
> Began work on the upper doors of the Wall Hung towards the end of Episode 19 by creating a bead detail on the right door while telling you of a rebate needed at the left door.
> 
> ...


It's coming along great and you've done a nice job of presenting it.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


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## GrandpaLen (Mar 6, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *M&T Work on Panel Doors, with Video*
> 
> Began work on the upper doors of the Wall Hung towards the end of Episode 19 by creating a bead detail on the right door while telling you of a rebate needed at the left door.
> 
> ...


...the best part of waking up is Folgers in my cup… well for years I've thought that, but wait…there's an e-mail notification that Smitty has posted yet another update on his Wall Hung Tool Cabinet.

...wh, ...wha, ...what's this?


> A video


, Man, that Smitty, now he's gone and hired a Production Company to document hand cutting a haunched Mortice & Tenon, what a Class Act, he just keeps on givin'.

Smitty I gotta' tell ya, I could almost smell the aroma of the wood as your tenon saw sliced open that first mortice.

It's gonna be a Great day… Smitty on the Big Screen, Folgers in my cup, and the mental aroma of freshly sawn lumber in the mornin', ...man it just don't get no better than this… BTW, nice joinery Smitty.

Thanks for the Blogs, we know they don't just happen by themselves. 

Best Regards. - Len


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *M&T Work on Panel Doors, with Video*
> 
> Began work on the upper doors of the Wall Hung towards the end of Episode 19 by creating a bead detail on the right door while telling you of a rebate needed at the left door.
> 
> ...


Thanks, everyone, for taking the time to comment. Very cool!

Len, good to see you back! Did it smell like cherry? Sawing that wood by hand is special for the scent, if for no other reason…

I have the EMBED code figured out, and now that I have it in one place, look out.  Just a copy and paste away from the promised land from here on out. I ended up using the iMovie upload to YoutTube; kicked it off and went to the shop. 2.5 hours later I came back to the house and it was done. Not bad at all for a four minute video. As far as more videos goes, hard to say. This one was cool, provided the perfect opportunity to learn the iMovie app. I got a tripod adapter for the pad from Santa; set it up to one side and shot footage, then moved it to the bench and repeated the cuts on a second rail. Edit footage, add photos and transitions, done. Narration? I'd have to write a friggin' script so it'd be interesting, much less deep and profound. Mos has set the bar very high indeed…


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## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *M&T Work on Panel Doors, with Video*
> 
> Began work on the upper doors of the Wall Hung towards the end of Episode 19 by creating a bead detail on the right door while telling you of a rebate needed at the left door.
> 
> ...


Hmm? Bar? How so? Lol

Looking good as always, Smitty. I am having a hard time figuring out if you did a traditional raised panel, or flat panel with rabbets…


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *M&T Work on Panel Doors, with Video*
> 
> Began work on the upper doors of the Wall Hung towards the end of Episode 19 by creating a bead detail on the right door while telling you of a rebate needed at the left door.
> 
> ...


The panels are flat to the front, beveled on the 'inside' of the cabinet to the degree needed to fit in the rails and stiles. On the older pieces I have seen, and on the Inspiration Piece, insides of panels are 'raised' but not to the point of appearing 'finished' or 'refined.' That's what I've done here, and it's similar to the treatment of drawer bottoms.

By making the reference lines with the gauge, I plane at an angle until both lines disappear, ideally at the same time. That gives me a reveal that's consistent around each panel as well as between both of them.

Ahhh, it was Shane that set the bar, not Mos.


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## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *M&T Work on Panel Doors, with Video*
> 
> Began work on the upper doors of the Wall Hung towards the end of Episode 19 by creating a bead detail on the right door while telling you of a rebate needed at the left door.
> 
> ...


Smitty, awesome work! And thanks for sharing the video…made my morning cherry to listen to your saw strokes! Very impressive production for your first attempt.

Also, thanks again and again for your photos…man, you're teaching me the fine details left out of the books! The cabinet is coming out great! ...takin' a year…but coming out great! 

I use an iPad, too, very frustrating to upload or download some stuff after a lifetime of learning microsuck habits…I wish I had started with apple years ago…ya know?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *M&T Work on Panel Doors, with Video*
> 
> Began work on the upper doors of the Wall Hung towards the end of Episode 19 by creating a bead detail on the right door while telling you of a rebate needed at the left door.
> 
> ...


Terry, I hear you re: learning new habits. I was a Mac guy in 1985, and slipped away out of necessity in the mid-90s because they just couldn't compete in the marketplace. So much has changed since I used a Powerbook on a daily basis… But now two of my sons have MacBooks and love them. I'm all over the iPod, and love to push it to do as much as possible for me. I'm no where near a power user, but I want the pad to let me do things I've always wanted to do. The tech is there, all in a single piece of incredible hardware, just have to figure it out.

Glad you like the blog and video!


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## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *M&T Work on Panel Doors, with Video*
> 
> Began work on the upper doors of the Wall Hung towards the end of Episode 19 by creating a bead detail on the right door while telling you of a rebate needed at the left door.
> 
> ...


I was going to say… the only videos I've posted had no narration, or no sound at all lol

I'm not going to get into the Apple vs Microsoft thing… I have some fundamental issues with Apple, and the way the ran/run things. I've got a Surface tablet, and can make it do what I want, one way or another. I may also be partial because my current employment is custom application development using the Microsoft stack… But I have been pro-microsoft for a while anyway. I am definitely a power user… I say like everything with woodworking, stick with what works for you, and makes you happy


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *M&T Work on Panel Doors, with Video*
> 
> Began work on the upper doors of the Wall Hung towards the end of Episode 19 by creating a bead detail on the right door while telling you of a rebate needed at the left door.
> 
> ...


I need me a beading plane!

I like the addition of the move Smitty, nice to see the workbench in action.

Also, nice to see the screwy mallet in action. ;-) He seems to be involved in a lot of glue ups…

Smitty, when are you going solo on your calendar offering? You have some of the best pictures man.

The cabinet is going to look great! Keep up the good work. Hopefully you have some good ideas for tool holders. I need some for my cabinet.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *M&T Work on Panel Doors, with Video*
> 
> Began work on the upper doors of the Wall Hung towards the end of Episode 19 by creating a bead detail on the right door while telling you of a rebate needed at the left door.
> 
> ...


I don't want to debate either, Mos. To each his own. Kinda like the Saw Stop discussions here on LJs, there's no point in casting disparaging comments one way or the other. 

'Use what you like' is great advise. That I say videos are with iMovie, or that pictures are with an iPhone, is not to incite a riot, and I hope it's not seen as a form of snobbery.  It's just calling out the tool(s) I'm using, and I do that alot.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *M&T Work on Panel Doors, with Video*
> 
> Began work on the upper doors of the Wall Hung towards the end of Episode 19 by creating a bead detail on the right door while telling you of a rebate needed at the left door.
> 
> ...


That mallet hasn't found a home yet, so he's been sitting at various locations of the bench for now. Maybe inside a certain cabinet he'll be able to settle down.

Wonder how I can get more workbench action into videos while keeping me out of them?

Been thinking about tool holding, I really have. But I've yet to actually try and construct any of the things I'm pondering. It's all still at the 'intimidation' stage of development, if you know what I mean.


----------



## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *M&T Work on Panel Doors, with Video*
> 
> Began work on the upper doors of the Wall Hung towards the end of Episode 19 by creating a bead detail on the right door while telling you of a rebate needed at the left door.
> 
> ...


Well put. I try to avoid the saw stop stuff as well for the same reasons. I try to stay out of Apple debates all the time too. Especially with the people I work with. I've got nothing against the hardware, or even the software to an extent. Just personal issues with the company itself.
-

After looking through the pictures again… I quite like the #198. I've got a #77, and like it, but there's some situations where I'd prefer wheels instead of the pins


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *M&T Work on Panel Doors, with Video*
> 
> Began work on the upper doors of the Wall Hung towards the end of Episode 19 by creating a bead detail on the right door while telling you of a rebate needed at the left door.
> 
> ...


looking good sofare smitty 

Dennis


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *M&T Work on Panel Doors, with Video*
> 
> Began work on the upper doors of the Wall Hung towards the end of Episode 19 by creating a bead detail on the right door while telling you of a rebate needed at the left door.
> 
> ...


Video is a brilliant addition to your fine lessons. I liked seeing you employ your crochet (hand rest) in the video.

Always a pleasure to read your blogs Smitty. Thank you much for all your efforts.


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *M&T Work on Panel Doors, with Video*
> 
> Began work on the upper doors of the Wall Hung towards the end of Episode 19 by creating a bead detail on the right door while telling you of a rebate needed at the left door.
> 
> ...


Wonderful work Smitty, but I can't see the video. It just says "The video is currently unavailable."


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *M&T Work on Panel Doors, with Video*
> 
> Began work on the upper doors of the Wall Hung towards the end of Episode 19 by creating a bead detail on the right door while telling you of a rebate needed at the left door.
> 
> ...


Andy, :-(

Dennis and Tony - thanks! This cabinet will get done, one way or another. And I'm ready for the next steps of hinges and door installation. Then some knobs on the drawers, maybe a lockset or two, and chest handles on either side. Very cool to be getting this close to working on tool layout!


----------



## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *M&T Work on Panel Doors, with Video*
> 
> Began work on the upper doors of the Wall Hung towards the end of Episode 19 by creating a bead detail on the right door while telling you of a rebate needed at the left door.
> 
> ...


The stiles are left long intentionally to prevent splitting during the mortising. Correct?

How did the #164 do?

Thanks for the video, pics, blog and taking us along.

Have you given any more thought to crown mould to match the "inspiration" piece?


----------



## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *M&T Work on Panel Doors, with Video*
> 
> Began work on the upper doors of the Wall Hung towards the end of Episode 19 by creating a bead detail on the right door while telling you of a rebate needed at the left door.
> 
> ...


BTW, Saw Stops are for folks who have more dollars than sense.


----------



## WhoMe (Jul 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *M&T Work on Panel Doors, with Video*
> 
> Began work on the upper doors of the Wall Hung towards the end of Episode 19 by creating a bead detail on the right door while telling you of a rebate needed at the left door.
> 
> ...


Smitty, Like the applause at the end. Kind like a pat on the back…lol
I have been following your blog and the video was a great addition. I learned something watching you set up for the tenon cuts. BUT, I would NEVER keep my hand that close to that saw blade once I got going. For me, that is a accident waiting to happen. 
And what are the holes in your saw for/from.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *M&T Work on Panel Doors, with Video*
> 
> Began work on the upper doors of the Wall Hung towards the end of Episode 19 by creating a bead detail on the right door while telling you of a rebate needed at the left door.
> 
> ...


Who - Yeah, I watched that video several times and observed my hand in harm's way. The camera angle makes it look worse than it is, really, but it's still a risk should the saw jump out of the kerf. I don't see a risk-free way, though, so caution must prevail!

Oh, and the hole was punched out long ago as a hang hole, I guess, by an earlier owner. The saw dates to the mid-to- late 1880s, maybe. That's a long time to be subjected to abuse.

Lysdexic- yes, that's why I left them long. The #164 is an AWESOME tool. Truly. It's made me consider dealing away some of my smoothers… And I started the moulding last night, but didn't get far yet. It will happen.


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## iceman50 (Jan 9, 2013)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *M&T Work on Panel Doors, with Video*
> 
> Began work on the upper doors of the Wall Hung towards the end of Episode 19 by creating a bead detail on the right door while telling you of a rebate needed at the left door.
> 
> ...


Smithy u just keep getting better and better. A real craftsman


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *M&T Work on Panel Doors, with Video*
> 
> Began work on the upper doors of the Wall Hung towards the end of Episode 19 by creating a bead detail on the right door while telling you of a rebate needed at the left door.
> 
> ...


New installment here.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *M&T Work on Panel Doors, with Video*
> 
> Began work on the upper doors of the Wall Hung towards the end of Episode 19 by creating a bead detail on the right door while telling you of a rebate needed at the left door.
> 
> ...


Thank you, Iceman. That means a lot, coming from you!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*

When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.










What I didn't realize is how close I had made it re: the rails. You can see in the pics below I had to preserve all of the rail material… Whew…



















There was very, very much tailoring to fit with various block planes as well as with the #93 shoulder plane in the rabbets of the center stiles, but I won't bore you with tons of those pics when one will do.










One door needed adjustment width-wise, and that also was done at the bench. Marked with a T-square, material removed with the #62 and door jointed with the #8.




























With all 'major' trimming complete, the fit at top and bottom looked good to my eye. Center looked okay, too.





































Time to add hardware, beginning with hinges. The inspiration piece has very plain, steel-type hardware.










I shopped one of the on-line catalogs last June and picked out something different.. I knew the 'steel' in anything new would be less substantial, and went with three per side. I also wanted a 'wrap-around' style of hinge that'd get more surface area contact when mortised in. Took about ten minutes, searching the shop, but I found the box of that held the hinges and got to work. And yes, I used a… a… a… routah. There, I said it. But admitting the problem puts me on the road to a cure, right?

Not enough photographic evidence here, but the first step I took was to mortise the hinges to the carcase. Once that was done, I transferred lines to the face of the carcase sides that were noted with the marking knife to the doors. That told me where to mount the hinges. Oh, and the hinge located were guessed… I went 3" from the top and bottom, then centered the middle one.























































Punch for screw locations, pre-drill with grandad's MF #2 eggbeater, drive screws using the Handyman then repeat the process two more times to get Door #1 done.














































Repeat for Door #2 and we're getting somewhere!










At the point the trim-to-fit activity is pretty much constant, to get the doors working smoothly within the space and with each other where the center stiles meet at the rabbet overlap. And once they were in place, I had to take off the left door to add a necessary but special piece of hardware: a NOS Stanley sliding bolt. I actually didn't know it was called a Sunk Flush Bolt until I googled the name on the box. Very, very cool. Wish there were more than one, but I'm still tickled to add this kind of vintage detail to my cabinet. I love the hardware, and couldn't believe it when showed up. Still had waxed paper around it, and all screws. Destiny, I say.














































A bit of work with that tailed apprentice mentioned earlier was needed to make the deep channel cuts for the rod, but that went off without a hitch and the bolt was install was complete.










A bit of pencil lead rubbed on the tip of the sliding bolt marked the cabinet header with the location of the strike plate. I then drilled a hole and used that drill bit, in the hole, to align said plate for install.




























Added screws, then moved on to the lock. It's identical to the one I put on the inspiration piece (original being long lost on that cabinet). Mortised the main plate to the backside of the door, very carefully, and that also went off without a problem.





































No escutcheon yet, but I'm not going to sweat that one.

Then to the drawers for final fitting, which didn't long at all, and mounting of pulls. Rather than wood, I opted for vintage ceramic ones on hand. This cabinet still appears to belong in a kitchen vs. the shop, but then parts of it did come from a hoosier, so I'm okay with that 'mystery.'



















Added a pull to the tambour then milled up the last pieces of cherry for the 'crown moulding' consisting of a piece of 1/2" x 1" cherry on top of a run of pine cove. This matches the Inspiration Piece in style exactly, although not in material-choice. I attempted to make the cove piece in cherry with a H&R plane, but failed. Maybe next time. I'll plug the screw holes in base face later, but that's no big deal. Even without those plugs and without a finish applied, here it is, the completed Tool Cabinet!





































Tool layouts inside the cabinet will take forever, and hasn't been started at this point. So I won't be posting this as a completed project within LJs until that time. I'll let the cherry darken for awhile, too, before adding finish. Thanks for following along with the long (very long) blog series and especially for commenting along the way. It's been fun!


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## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


Smitty, youve done it ole boy! It looks like you had a lot of fun building this one. Well thought out and well done my man. Stef likey.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


what a great cabinet! I can't wait to see her full.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


The build was a challenge

-Working with tambour the first time
-Working with cherry the first time
-Making repetitive M&T joints with handsaw
-Sliding till door (although that was inspired by the sliding deadman on my bench)

It's not a practical form for things like kitchen cabinets, of course, but for a stand-alone piece it was a great learning exercise. It's clear to me that a base needs to be built specifically for it, now that it's done. But don't ask when. It's definitely a 'someday' thing, if ever.

Thanks for the comments, Don and Stef!


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## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


Really turned out nice Smitty. You have done a great job with this project/blog. Looking forward to the final post and stocking.


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## jap (Oct 10, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


great job


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## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


I think it deserves a base, for sure. My suggestion (you may take it for the little value it has ) would be to lay out/stock the top. Use it for a while. See what fits, what you like and don't like, and what you wish it had…then incorporate that into the base. Some larger drawers, removable trays, and what not.

What are the approximate dimensions? And empty weight?...if you were to guess


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## GrandpaLen (Mar 6, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


Smitty,

...another great project blog, ...but I'm not ready for it to be over.

Your transformation of the "Hoosier Cabinet" to the "Wheres'yer Cabinet' 
and on to the "Oh, Theres'yer Cabinet, again" to the grand finale, "What'cha'putin'inyer Cabinet".

Smitty, I am Smitt'en.

What a wonderful 'Hand Tool' useage resource of practice and procedure for those LJs interested in taking a giant step backwards, into the time of, the 'Art of Hand Tooled Craftsmanship'. 
No, I'm not referring to it as fine furniture, but to the usage of tools without electrical power sources ('routah' aside).

I for one, thoroughly enjoyed your cabinet's Journey to it's new purpose. 
Your willingness to take the EXTRA time (a lot of extra time) to share your talents with us is beyond comendable.

Best Regards
Work Safely and have Fun. - Grandpa Len.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


Len, wow. Thank you for that, very nice. It's been a challenge, pulling myself back to this build when it was easy to 'let it sit.' But I knew (( hoped) there were folks on LJs that were watching and being patient. 

A couple more pics to add now. I forgot these handles. They're also Stanley OEM, japanned chest handles with orig. slotted screws! It's just what the tool doctor ordered.



















Shane, it's 31" wide, 47" high. Weight? Maybe 40 lbs?


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## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


Awesome. It looks great. I too really like that NOS Stanley bolt. It's even SW!


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


Smitty, is that handled marked "Stanley" anywhere? I just pulled a handle just like that out of the bottom of one of my drawers to put where it belongs. That would be cool if i found out it was made by Stanley. Mine is old and rusted, but i know how to fix that if needed.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


Don, yes they are. Small Stanley logo in the top, dead-center of the plate, public side.

You know, I have two more pair in that box and will send you one pair if you're interested. No screws, though…


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


Thanks Smit, I don't really have a use right now (but I won't forget ), I'll have to clean mine up and see if its stamped. I just found it and figured I put it where I'd know where it was if I happened to need it. If its not stanley, it may end up on the trap door to the attic.


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## GrandpaLen (Mar 6, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


...wh, ...Wha, ...WHAT ???!!!

It's Portable? *...it's 31" wide, 47" high. Weight? Maybe 40 lbs?*, empty that is.

After appointed with those beautiful Hand Tools, *remember to lift with your legs!! ;-)*

*Lift* Safely and have Fun. - Grandpa Len.


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## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


Very impressive! I love every bit of the cabinet…excepp the thought of lifting that bad boy! 

+1 on the SW bolt and other Stanley original hardware…sweet bling!

Truely an heirloom cabinet


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


I'll tell you what, Len. It's portable when Empty, and that's about it. Just hefting the thing around to add hardware was a real pain, and I felt stupid not putting the handles on much sooner. 

Thanks, Terry! It's a bit selfish to use NOS, but I'm over it already. lol…


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## Richforever (Mar 19, 2008)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


Thanks so much for the inspiration. A tool cabinet has been on my list for a long time. All the hand tools and details are very inspiring!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


Rich, not a problem!


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


Smit - the right-hand door, the one with the lock is upside down.

Just kidding. I really don't think that I add much to the praise that you have already recieved except to say that I agree. The cabinet is a unique and beautiful piece. As usual, it exudes total awesomeness.

A couple questions:

Does the sliding door hit the pull on the tambour door?

What does NOS stand for?

Do you still have my mailing address for shipping?


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


Smitty I enjoyed this one a lot. The Stanley overload of tools and hardware will have me searching the antiques shops a lot harder. You did a fine job documenting and photographing the project. I hope it serves you well for a long time to come. Outstanding outcome and a fabulous finish!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


Scotty, you are a gentlemen and a scholar. Thank you for pointing out the faulty install of the right-side door. Now that I know it's wrong, I no longer want the cabinet and will indeed be sending it your way. Postage due.

heh.

-Nope, the pull is clear of the sliding door.

-New Old Stock. Chest handles are as they were sitting on a hardware shelf, waxpaper and all, some 50+ years ago. As new, really. Just old.

-Yep, I have your address!

Thanks for the comments, buddy.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Super! Speaking of finish, I'm adding one now; the 3-2-1 stuff. And the cherry is really popping; quite cool!

Glad you enjoyed, and good luck on your searches! Lots of good stuff out that needing some appreciation, I think!


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


way to go smitty 
it have been a joy to follow you on the journey

take care
Dennis


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


Your comment about finishing brings up a interesting question / tactic.

Cherry - it darkens with exposure to oxygen and light. It makes sense that a finish would retard (I am not talking about Stef) the oxidation. I doubt that a finish would inhibit darkening from light, especially direct sunlight. I will admit to putting a new LN plane in direct sunlight. It didn't really work.

So my wonderance ( that is not a real word) is, what are reasonable strategeries for hastening cherry wood darkening? And how does finishing relate to this tactic.


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## iceman50 (Jan 9, 2013)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


Looks great. What a talent u have!


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## thedude50 (Aug 13, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


how deep is it Smitty I am just curious


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## kenn (Mar 19, 2008)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


What to add? It is a great chest and I've enjoyed following along with your journey. Thanks for keeping us informed.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


a nice SW in a heart. Now that makes me happy! The enlarge handle part is actually metal.


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


Wow, its looking great. And the SW hardware is a fantastic touch! Nice score.

Great to see the mallet getting so much love! Big 

The crown molding really gives it a nice touch. That and the tambour and sliding doors make this such a unique cabinet. Inspirational work Smitty! I love it. Cant wait to see it full of tools!


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


Wow! You've made some great progress Smitty. I love it. So I take you're going to hang it on the wall before you fill it up with tools right?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


The cabinet is 10 1/2" deep, inside the open doors.

Don, that handle is outstanding! (I'd go mad until I found another just like it, though..,)

Thanks, Kenn, for for one of those that didn't give up over the past 11 months. lol

Maur, the mallet is finding it's niche, indeed.

Andy, I said the thing had to get done, man!  I'll find a spot for it while I work on tool arrangements, then I'll hang it. Emptied first, of course.


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## LukieB (Jan 8, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


Love it, love everything about it. Gonna build me one just like it, sweetheart hardware and all. Very nicely done Smitty!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


Lucas,. I bet you can get 'er done faster than this build, too. Glad you're inspired, I'd like to follow along when you het started!


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## thedude50 (Aug 13, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


will you be adding a till inside the cabinet for hand planes or is that another project?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


I'll be putting several planes inside, but not the full range of bench planes. Which specific ones is so far tbd…


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## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


Scotty you sneaky SOB … well played my friend. I too really enjoy that handle on it Smitty. I wonder if the one i put on my filing cabinet was a stanley. I found it in a box of hardware from my grandfathers and they look very similar. IMO, the handle really adds to the project, both yours and mine.










Now along with hunting old hand tools im on the look out for vintage hardware. Just another addiction to the pile. You guys are the best.,


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


very nice build!

but what's up with that power tool there?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


Stef, the handle does look very familiar! And I like the cabinet you made. It speaks to me. It's painted, and I love it.

Purp, that power tool makes me wonder what came first: predominant use of round-corner hinge plates or widespread use of routahs…


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


Are you saying routahs with a Norm accent? LOL have you ever heard Roy Underhill imitate Norm, its hilarious.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


I'd love to see that, heading to youtube now.

Yeah, I'm channeling the Flannel'd One…


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


Watch the free 20th anniversary episode of the Woodwright shop. He goofs on him a couple of times. On one part he has a Norm puppet with a routah! LOL, its a very short segment worth watching.


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## bhog (Jan 13, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


That is a pretty cool cabinet Smitt.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


Maur, love that video!

And I notice a certain pencil sharpener at the 21.10 mark that looks very familiar...


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


Been workin on my list of tools to place inside the cabinet, also spending some time searching for examples of wall cabinets that might be considered 'cool' or 'inspiring.' Obviously the Studley chest is amazing in every way, and from it I'm motivated to use dark woods inside for tool holding and build outs. It also makes me consider including bits for the brace in a more deliberate way.

The squares (combo and protractor) doen't see to work in many designs without being placed flat to an inside surface.

Saws. Want to add two (rip, xcut) panel saws in the doors, also nothing catching my fancy there. And don't get me started on clever ways to place a coping saw. Not to say there isn't a way, I just haven't found it or thought of it yet.

Chisels I'm making most progress on, if you can call 'thought' actual progress. A big hurdle was determining which set to put in the cabinet vs. the bench vs. the chest. That's decided now, though.

Specialty planes. This is a big one, as I'd like to place the #50 in there as well as the #113.

Other planes. Not all bench planes are going in. Neither are very many block planes.

That's all for now, may jot more thoughts as they occur.


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## GrandpaLen (Mar 6, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


* Looking Great Smitty*

...so many tools, such limited Prime space.

Hey, it's a new Project year. 
May well need to deconstruct an additional Hoosier cabinet, mirror image 'WALL HUNG CABBINETS', ...hmmm…
The 2nd build would go much quicker with all the design processes so fresh in your mind.

...be like winning the Super Bowl in 'Double Overtime'. ...well, just a thought. 

Work Safely and have Fun. - Len.


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


Some inspiration for you Smitty.


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


The cabinet came out fantastic Smitty. I'm looking forward to seeing how you develop the interior.

Your methods of keeping us in the loop of your thought process while presenting the details of the work itself, make your blogs enlightening and a pleasure to follow. I never fail to learn from them.

I can't thank you enough for your efforts in documenting your fine work.

Thanks Smitty.


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


Here is one of my favorites.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


Great suggestions, guys, and very welcomed. I've been searching the LJs archive for things; almost too much info (but not really). The approach I'm on now includes a general design as the starting point, then chipping away on the things that I'm sure of, working towards the lesser-known sections…


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## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


My wall cabs seem to be ever evolving with new tool purchases. If you can get all your "go to" tools in there Smitty, i think youll be well on your way to enjoying every inch of your cabinet. You did so well on the outside that the inside should be a real treat.

Your GI is through the friggin roof!


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## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


Well after more than 4 days it is dificult to add something original.
I really enjoy all your project's blogs.
And the end result is really excellent.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


Sylvain, you sayin' four days ain't enough time to reinvent the wheel that is cabinet storage?  I think you're right.

Today I spent time making lists of handtools by logical grouping so I could get a better handle on what could go into the cabinet vs. what wouldn't. Good progress, actually. This cabinet build is helping me out in unintended ways: I'm organizing…


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


I envy somebody that can say "Here's my tool set". I've been doing this a long time, and I've never settled on one technique, or type of wood working, so my "daily" set of tools constantly changes. It even goes a bit beyond woodworking in that I'll go through spells were almost all my work is restorations (tools or otherwise), then I might do a couple months of gun restorations and gun smithing, then maybe some small engine repair, etc.

It always comes full circle, and I'm always doing some kind of working with wood, but to limit my tool set just doesn't seem to be in the cards.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


I promised the possibility of a picture of the backside of the sliding door… It's ugly…


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


A conundrum. I've yet to see an storage example in wall hung cabinet that provides the sensation of epiphany. It probably doesn't exist. Yet, lets talk about some design criteria. Ok, I volunteer to be first. *Weight.*....

The heaviest tools from a load bearing perspective should be closest to the wall or back of the cabinet. this will decrease the moment arm acting on the wall anchor - french cleat or otherwise. This is not as critical for a cabinet supported by a stand.

Ergonomics: the heaviest tools should reside approximately belly button height. We will all tire of reaching for a #7 in an over head position. I forget the dude's name but the one that Andy posted above with the chair has the right idea with his plane placement.

The lightest tools should go on the doors. These affect the moment arm the greatest. Think layout tools, chisels and such.

Other design criteria to consider….

*Volume*: optimizing the storage volume. Directly proportional to weight and probably inversely proportional to accessibility.

*Accessibility*: the most used tools at the ready. If you are going to add layers ie Studley, dont bury your favorite square below flip out trays.

*Composition*: easily dismissed but the arrangement of patterns, rhythm, color and texture will have an emotional impact every time you open the doors. This, obviously is a matter of taste but don't plan to store your Hurwoods in a red, plastic Folger can at the end of a row of T#13's.

*Flexibility*: I avoid commitment and want the ability to change things up in the future. Mos's T-track till is a great example. My marriage is not.

I am sure that you guys can think of other variables but these are some design considerations off the top of my head, like the strand of hair in the sink.

My hope is that Smitty in his infinite awesomeness comes up with the perfect storage solution. Then I can dead head copy his when I make mine. Don't let me down.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


Wow, that post was awesomeness!!!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


I would rank composition high on the Epiphany Tool Cabinet (ETC) index, along with ergonomics and accessibility. Flexibility not so much, because if I get it right… Volume and access are so incredibly linked.

Tonight I learned how big (small) my doors are relative to 90% of my handsaws. Good thing for the 10%, right? And I have an interior course for blocks and shoulders that I favor at the moment. Bech planes still out there.


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


This is where all the smart kids are hanging out?

Great read. Off the top of your head Scott? What is it like if you think something out? I think that guy w/ the chair is Jeff Miller.

Smitty how in the world did you make a board that is that far gone work in your build? That type of inordinate adaptability is what is so inspiring about you work, to me anyway. Don does that type of just make it work stuff too; i am going to get there one day.


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## GrandpaLen (Mar 6, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


Smitty,

In most projects their will be inherent flaws and for some of us, it's pseudo compulsive to confess these sins.

You could have gone forever without posting that* 'ugly' *photo, but I totally understand the cleansing nature of your addmission, albeit the only time the light of day will shine on the backside of that door, but hey, you saved that board from the wood stove or landfill or a lessor life as multiple glue blocks. Well done.

...lovin' every minute of it. - Len


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


Len / Tony - True confession time. I was playing around with a couple layout strategies last night and went to put something in the tambour bay but the tambour wouldn't open. Take a look at the pic a couple of posts up, bottom left corner. That is one half of the 'humpboard' that defines the right track for the door. I accidentally cut it in half with the band saw when I made it (and it's left side twin) months ago, but installed it anyway. Well, it came back and bit me last night, and the only way to free the door was to remove the base face. Once off, I snapped the pic. Otherwise I doubt very seriously it would have ever been posted.

Now you know. 

*Volume*, with all it's complexities, is the most vexing of the criterion above, IMHO.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


The need to find homes for a couple of 'keeper' planes led to several workholding mods in the Not-Wall-Hung.

-Floating shelf for #9, bottom area, above the tail of the #8 jointer
-Riser for the #2 smoother on middle shelf
-Peg and board for #79, this one above the nose of the #8
-Holder for #71 router, top shelf










In the doors, holders for monster dividers, Disston stair saw and B&S combination square. Looks good, works well, doors close. More to come, as time and motivation happens!


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


I like the slanted posture of the Starrett protractor and the complementar slanted cleat for the stair saw.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Yo. Only 5/4" of lateral space to work with inside these particular doors; that largely dictated what could be placed. I chose tools I reach for infrequently, but otherwise needed better availability and protection. The reverse sides will offer more possibilities re: tools that might fit.


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


Looks to be very close quarters now. Does it require extra caution when extracting the #71?

Good to see an update, thanks Smitty.


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


That's a big ass protractor.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


At this point, each plane can be pulled without removing another first. Caution always required w/ good tools, Tony.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


Added a Starrett No. 236 to the door.


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## GrandpaLen (Mar 6, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


Looking Good Smitty.
Here's to a Happy and Prosperous New Year.

Work Safely and have Fun. - Len


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


Hello, Len! Thanks, and Best Wishes to You for 2016! Life is Good!


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


Love the very specific design of the caddy. Thanks for the update Smitty.


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## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


Smitty, I must have missed this one along the way. However, I have enjoyed very much seeing it today. You've done a wonderful job on this cabinet and I'm going to mark it as a favorite so I can find it again. Thanks for posting it. Nice work.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hinges and Hardware - Cabinet Complete*
> 
> When we left subject cabinet, the last part of the build was done, as the upper door pieces were cut and fit and glued up. Stiles ran long on the doors, as Lysdexic correctly pointed out, to prevent spitting of the entire stile while the mortises were cut. So we know the doors needed a trim length wise.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Charles!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*Fill it up?*

It seems that every January brings with it the need to work on an older, uncompleted project. Last year it was the tool chest, before that the tool chest (yes, it took that long!), and before that was the partition wall in my shop space. This time around, the Not-Wall-Hung is getting a third look. There have been tools inside the thing, obviously, but it's not anywhere near the state I envisioned it to be when it was declared 'essentially complete' in 2013. Here's what it looked like then:



















And this is as far as build-out has gotten through Christmas of 2015:










So, why the push to get this cabinet to the next level now? I guess because I added a Starrett depth gauge / protractor thingy (No. 236) to the inside of an inner door; from that point, the wheels started turning towards "next steps". I've had a kinda-sorta idea on what to do with doors, nothing more.

So to move forward, let's start by moving backwards; back to the plane shelving, through the door mounts, and wrapping up to where I am now. The shelves were always intended. What I used was some salvage walnut, one screw anchoring the middle of each from the backside of the cabinet wall. With the plan set to keep center sag at bay, a solution was needed at the ends. What I came up with was big on strength while maximizing usuable shelf space:










Doesn't seem like much, but keeping available a full inch of space on each shelf was a very good thing.

The inside cabinet has a doorframe that was lapped for strength:










That in turn served to frame the new shelves. And I wanted doors inside that frame. Here's the final look, featuring finials made by slicing a walnut table leg in half… Yeah, that's the extent of the fancy aesthetic, but I like it.



















The frame is put together to stay, and the doors are oak, from the Hoosier cabinet donor that started this whole Not Wall Hung project years ago.










And that brings me to the first things to appear on the new oak doors: a combination square, stair saw and monster divider. Without getting too deep into the 'why' for those things, I'll just say there was no other place to put those tools that made sense. That and I wanted to try my hand at building what Tony has now called 'tool caddies.' When did he say that? When I added the most recent tool to the right side door: a No. 236 Starrett gauge:



















That gets us up to Time Now… Next time we move onto new build outs. So until then: Thanks for Looking!


----------



## 85497 (Apr 3, 2013)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Fill it up?*
> 
> It seems that every January brings with it the need to work on an older, uncompleted project. Last year it was the tool chest, before that the tool chest (yes, it took that long!), and before that was the partition wall in my shop space. This time around, the Not-Wall-Hung is getting a third look. There have been tools inside the thing, obviously, but it's not anywhere near the state I envisioned it to be when it was declared 'essentially complete' in 2013. Here's what it looked like then:
> 
> ...


Love…Your…Work, as always.


----------



## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Fill it up?*
> 
> It seems that every January brings with it the need to work on an older, uncompleted project. Last year it was the tool chest, before that the tool chest (yes, it took that long!), and before that was the partition wall in my shop space. This time around, the Not-Wall-Hung is getting a third look. There have been tools inside the thing, obviously, but it's not anywhere near the state I envisioned it to be when it was declared 'essentially complete' in 2013. Here's what it looked like then:
> 
> ...


It looks great smitty. The finials are an awesome touch.


----------



## ToddJB (Jul 26, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Fill it up?*
> 
> It seems that every January brings with it the need to work on an older, uncompleted project. Last year it was the tool chest, before that the tool chest (yes, it took that long!), and before that was the partition wall in my shop space. This time around, the Not-Wall-Hung is getting a third look. There have been tools inside the thing, obviously, but it's not anywhere near the state I envisioned it to be when it was declared 'essentially complete' in 2013. Here's what it looked like then:
> 
> ...


Righteous. Cool addition.


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Fill it up?*
> 
> It seems that every January brings with it the need to work on an older, uncompleted project. Last year it was the tool chest, before that the tool chest (yes, it took that long!), and before that was the partition wall in my shop space. This time around, the Not-Wall-Hung is getting a third look. There have been tools inside the thing, obviously, but it's not anywhere near the state I envisioned it to be when it was declared 'essentially complete' in 2013. Here's what it looked like then:
> 
> ...


Great stuff for my morning coffee. An amazing transformation, thank you Smitty!


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## murch (Mar 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Fill it up?*
> 
> It seems that every January brings with it the need to work on an older, uncompleted project. Last year it was the tool chest, before that the tool chest (yes, it took that long!), and before that was the partition wall in my shop space. This time around, the Not-Wall-Hung is getting a third look. There have been tools inside the thing, obviously, but it's not anywhere near the state I envisioned it to be when it was declared 'essentially complete' in 2013. Here's what it looked like then:
> 
> ...


Wow, she's coming on a treat. Love it.


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Fill it up?*
> 
> It seems that every January brings with it the need to work on an older, uncompleted project. Last year it was the tool chest, before that the tool chest (yes, it took that long!), and before that was the partition wall in my shop space. This time around, the Not-Wall-Hung is getting a third look. There have been tools inside the thing, obviously, but it's not anywhere near the state I envisioned it to be when it was declared 'essentially complete' in 2013. Here's what it looked like then:
> 
> ...


Looking super sexy smitty! The walnut "columns" ad a really nice touch.


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## gulottab (Oct 12, 2015)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Fill it up?*
> 
> It seems that every January brings with it the need to work on an older, uncompleted project. Last year it was the tool chest, before that the tool chest (yes, it took that long!), and before that was the partition wall in my shop space. This time around, the Not-Wall-Hung is getting a third look. There have been tools inside the thing, obviously, but it's not anywhere near the state I envisioned it to be when it was declared 'essentially complete' in 2013. Here's what it looked like then:
> 
> ...


Awesome work smitty!!!


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## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Fill it up?*
> 
> It seems that every January brings with it the need to work on an older, uncompleted project. Last year it was the tool chest, before that the tool chest (yes, it took that long!), and before that was the partition wall in my shop space. This time around, the Not-Wall-Hung is getting a third look. There have been tools inside the thing, obviously, but it's not anywhere near the state I envisioned it to be when it was declared 'essentially complete' in 2013. Here's what it looked like then:
> 
> ...


Really nice save on the cabinet.


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## shampeon (Jun 3, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Fill it up?*
> 
> It seems that every January brings with it the need to work on an older, uncompleted project. Last year it was the tool chest, before that the tool chest (yes, it took that long!), and before that was the partition wall in my shop space. This time around, the Not-Wall-Hung is getting a third look. There have been tools inside the thing, obviously, but it's not anywhere near the state I envisioned it to be when it was declared 'essentially complete' in 2013. Here's what it looked like then:
> 
> ...


Smitty, another great project. Bravo.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Fill it up?*
> 
> It seems that every January brings with it the need to work on an older, uncompleted project. Last year it was the tool chest, before that the tool chest (yes, it took that long!), and before that was the partition wall in my shop space. This time around, the Not-Wall-Hung is getting a third look. There have been tools inside the thing, obviously, but it's not anywhere near the state I envisioned it to be when it was declared 'essentially complete' in 2013. Here's what it looked like then:
> 
> ...


Thanks for the comments!~

Several more installments planned over the next several weeks, just need to match pics with the narrative. Fitting tools takes a ton of time, and I haven't even gotten that far yet!

Anyone think strongly that some kind of finish should be applied to tool caddys? Cabinet interiors in general? I've kept it unfinished on purpose so far.


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## ToddJB (Jul 26, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Fill it up?*
> 
> It seems that every January brings with it the need to work on an older, uncompleted project. Last year it was the tool chest, before that the tool chest (yes, it took that long!), and before that was the partition wall in my shop space. This time around, the Not-Wall-Hung is getting a third look. There have been tools inside the thing, obviously, but it's not anywhere near the state I envisioned it to be when it was declared 'essentially complete' in 2013. Here's what it looked like then:
> 
> ...


I personally am not a fan of unfinished oak. I like the look of oak with some dark or black walnut danish oil. But that is all for looks. No need for finish for function.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Fill it up?*
> 
> It seems that every January brings with it the need to work on an older, uncompleted project. Last year it was the tool chest, before that the tool chest (yes, it took that long!), and before that was the partition wall in my shop space. This time around, the Not-Wall-Hung is getting a third look. There have been tools inside the thing, obviously, but it's not anywhere near the state I envisioned it to be when it was declared 'essentially complete' in 2013. Here's what it looked like then:
> 
> ...


Putting danish oil on the oak doors sounds like a fine idea, Todd.


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Fill it up?*
> 
> It seems that every January brings with it the need to work on an older, uncompleted project. Last year it was the tool chest, before that the tool chest (yes, it took that long!), and before that was the partition wall in my shop space. This time around, the Not-Wall-Hung is getting a third look. There have been tools inside the thing, obviously, but it's not anywhere near the state I envisioned it to be when it was declared 'essentially complete' in 2013. Here's what it looked like then:
> 
> ...


I would just seal it with some thin coats of shellac. Fast and easy


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Fill it up?*
> 
> It seems that every January brings with it the need to work on an older, uncompleted project. Last year it was the tool chest, before that the tool chest (yes, it took that long!), and before that was the partition wall in my shop space. This time around, the Not-Wall-Hung is getting a third look. There have been tools inside the thing, obviously, but it's not anywhere near the state I envisioned it to be when it was declared 'essentially complete' in 2013. Here's what it looked like then:
> 
> ...


Sure, taunt me for being a shellac noob…


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Fill it up?*
> 
> It seems that every January brings with it the need to work on an older, uncompleted project. Last year it was the tool chest, before that the tool chest (yes, it took that long!), and before that was the partition wall in my shop space. This time around, the Not-Wall-Hung is getting a third look. There have been tools inside the thing, obviously, but it's not anywhere near the state I envisioned it to be when it was declared 'essentially complete' in 2013. Here's what it looked like then:
> 
> ...


Steph and BHog have a process that they swear by but I haven't tried it yet. I use a $3 hake brush from the art store and just thin it out a lot, that's what Paul sellers recommends and it works pretty well. Very easy.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Fill it up?*
> 
> It seems that every January brings with it the need to work on an older, uncompleted project. Last year it was the tool chest, before that the tool chest (yes, it took that long!), and before that was the partition wall in my shop space. This time around, the Not-Wall-Hung is getting a third look. There have been tools inside the thing, obviously, but it's not anywhere near the state I envisioned it to be when it was declared 'essentially complete' in 2013. Here's what it looked like then:
> 
> ...


Someday. But not now. I do like the slight coloration added by danish oil, and it's easy to apply as well as clean up after with what I already have. Shellac will wait until I have more time to dedicate to it's understanding.
.
.
.
"A man's got to know his limitations."


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Fill it up?*
> 
> It seems that every January brings with it the need to work on an older, uncompleted project. Last year it was the tool chest, before that the tool chest (yes, it took that long!), and before that was the partition wall in my shop space. This time around, the Not-Wall-Hung is getting a third look. There have been tools inside the thing, obviously, but it's not anywhere near the state I envisioned it to be when it was declared 'essentially complete' in 2013. Here's what it looked like then:
> 
> ...


Getting ahead of myself here, but how about a preview of upcoming subject matter:










Kinda shadowy, sorry, but it's the best I could do (in more ways than one).


----------



## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Fill it up?*
> 
> It seems that every January brings with it the need to work on an older, uncompleted project. Last year it was the tool chest, before that the tool chest (yes, it took that long!), and before that was the partition wall in my shop space. This time around, the Not-Wall-Hung is getting a third look. There have been tools inside the thing, obviously, but it's not anywhere near the state I envisioned it to be when it was declared 'essentially complete' in 2013. Here's what it looked like then:
> 
> ...


Nice output with the 444 Smitty. Is it going in a cabinet or is it a stand alone piece?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Fill it up?*
> 
> It seems that every January brings with it the need to work on an older, uncompleted project. Last year it was the tool chest, before that the tool chest (yes, it took that long!), and before that was the partition wall in my shop space. This time around, the Not-Wall-Hung is getting a third look. There have been tools inside the thing, obviously, but it's not anywhere near the state I envisioned it to be when it was declared 'essentially complete' in 2013. Here's what it looked like then:
> 
> ...


Now, Kevin… it's in the Not-Wall-Hung blog, isn't it?  Thanks, it's the best of the four reveals, I'll say that much.


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## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Fill it up?*
> 
> It seems that every January brings with it the need to work on an older, uncompleted project. Last year it was the tool chest, before that the tool chest (yes, it took that long!), and before that was the partition wall in my shop space. This time around, the Not-Wall-Hung is getting a third look. There have been tools inside the thing, obviously, but it's not anywhere near the state I envisioned it to be when it was declared 'essentially complete' in 2013. Here's what it looked like then:
> 
> ...


Now Smitty, it may be in the Not Well Hung blog but it could fit into into a Not Wall Hung cabinet OR it could be a Not Wall Hung cabinet 

splitting hairs is fun!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Fill it up?*
> 
> It seems that every January brings with it the need to work on an older, uncompleted project. Last year it was the tool chest, before that the tool chest (yes, it took that long!), and before that was the partition wall in my shop space. This time around, the Not-Wall-Hung is getting a third look. There have been tools inside the thing, obviously, but it's not anywhere near the state I envisioned it to be when it was declared 'essentially complete' in 2013. Here's what it looked like then:
> 
> ...


And technically, the piece is standing on it's own right now.

I guess we'll have to wait and see!


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Fill it up?*
> 
> It seems that every January brings with it the need to work on an older, uncompleted project. Last year it was the tool chest, before that the tool chest (yes, it took that long!), and before that was the partition wall in my shop space. This time around, the Not-Wall-Hung is getting a third look. There have been tools inside the thing, obviously, but it's not anywhere near the state I envisioned it to be when it was declared 'essentially complete' in 2013. Here's what it looked like then:
> 
> ...


Sliding dovetails are fuggin' cool! What's that small can (yellow/white&Black) to the right of the window on the saw till?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Fill it up?*
> 
> It seems that every January brings with it the need to work on an older, uncompleted project. Last year it was the tool chest, before that the tool chest (yes, it took that long!), and before that was the partition wall in my shop space. This time around, the Not-Wall-Hung is getting a third look. There have been tools inside the thing, obviously, but it's not anywhere near the state I envisioned it to be when it was declared 'essentially complete' in 2013. Here's what it looked like then:
> 
> ...


I'll take a close-up of it tonight. HINT: It's not a can at all, as I recall.


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Fill it up?*
> 
> It seems that every January brings with it the need to work on an older, uncompleted project. Last year it was the tool chest, before that the tool chest (yes, it took that long!), and before that was the partition wall in my shop space. This time around, the Not-Wall-Hung is getting a third look. There have been tools inside the thing, obviously, but it's not anywhere near the state I envisioned it to be when it was declared 'essentially complete' in 2013. Here's what it looked like then:
> 
> ...


It still looks like a small can of CAT anti-seize (perhaps very old) even though I am told it's not a can.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Fill it up?*
> 
> It seems that every January brings with it the need to work on an older, uncompleted project. Last year it was the tool chest, before that the tool chest (yes, it took that long!), and before that was the partition wall in my shop space. This time around, the Not-Wall-Hung is getting a third look. There have been tools inside the thing, obviously, but it's not anywhere near the state I envisioned it to be when it was declared 'essentially complete' in 2013. Here's what it looked like then:
> 
> ...


Dangit, I took pics. Just need to post them!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Fill it up?*
> 
> It seems that every January brings with it the need to work on an older, uncompleted project. Last year it was the tool chest, before that the tool chest (yes, it took that long!), and before that was the partition wall in my shop space. This time around, the Not-Wall-Hung is getting a third look. There have been tools inside the thing, obviously, but it's not anywhere near the state I envisioned it to be when it was declared 'essentially complete' in 2013. Here's what it looked like then:
> 
> ...












^ Housekeeping pic.










^ Teaser pic.


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Fill it up?*
> 
> It seems that every January brings with it the need to work on an older, uncompleted project. Last year it was the tool chest, before that the tool chest (yes, it took that long!), and before that was the partition wall in my shop space. This time around, the Not-Wall-Hung is getting a third look. There have been tools inside the thing, obviously, but it's not anywhere near the state I envisioned it to be when it was declared 'essentially complete' in 2013. Here's what it looked like then:
> 
> ...


Never can have too many saw bearings.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Fill it up?*
> 
> It seems that every January brings with it the need to work on an older, uncompleted project. Last year it was the tool chest, before that the tool chest (yes, it took that long!), and before that was the partition wall in my shop space. This time around, the Not-Wall-Hung is getting a third look. There have been tools inside the thing, obviously, but it's not anywhere near the state I envisioned it to be when it was declared 'essentially complete' in 2013. Here's what it looked like then:
> 
> ...


Not that I actually know what to do with them. Just seemed too nice to throw away, so there they sit.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Fill it up?*
> 
> It seems that every January brings with it the need to work on an older, uncompleted project. Last year it was the tool chest, before that the tool chest (yes, it took that long!), and before that was the partition wall in my shop space. This time around, the Not-Wall-Hung is getting a third look. There have been tools inside the thing, obviously, but it's not anywhere near the state I envisioned it to be when it was declared 'essentially complete' in 2013. Here's what it looked like then:
> 
> ...


It just keeps getting better and better.


----------



## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Fill it up?*
> 
> It seems that every January brings with it the need to work on an older, uncompleted project. Last year it was the tool chest, before that the tool chest (yes, it took that long!), and before that was the partition wall in my shop space. This time around, the Not-Wall-Hung is getting a third look. There have been tools inside the thing, obviously, but it's not anywhere near the state I envisioned it to be when it was declared 'essentially complete' in 2013. Here's what it looked like then:
> 
> ...


"the need to work on an older, uncompleted project. Last year it was the tool chest, before that the tool chest (yes, it took that long!), and before that …"

So far, so good. So when do you think the next update will be on this… December maybe??? LOL


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Fill it up?*
> 
> It seems that every January brings with it the need to work on an older, uncompleted project. Last year it was the tool chest, before that the tool chest (yes, it took that long!), and before that was the partition wall in my shop space. This time around, the Not-Wall-Hung is getting a third look. There have been tools inside the thing, obviously, but it's not anywhere near the state I envisioned it to be when it was declared 'essentially complete' in 2013. Here's what it looked like then:
> 
> ...


Actually, hope to post something tonight!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*What was it this Not Wall Hung was supposed to be, again?*

The build out is proceeding now for a couple of reasons, one being contents. Here's what I said 3 years ago this January:

-Squares (combo and protractor) don't seem to work in many designs without being placed flat to an inside surface.
-Saws. Want to add two (rip, xcut) panel saws in the doors, also nothing catching my fancy there. And don't get me started on clever ways to place a coping saw. 
-Chisels I'm making most progress on, if you can call 'thought' actual progress. A big hurdle was determining which set to put in the cabinet vs. the bench vs. the chest. That's decided now, though.
-Specialty planes. I'd like to place the #50 in there as well as the #113.
-Other planes. Not all bench planes are going in. Neither are very many block planes.

For SQUARES, the protractor is already inside. That's a WIN! Are there others to include in this build-out? Well, the Starrett was the latest, but we'll see.

SAWS is still a stumper. Backsaws have a place in the chest; I didn't have that three years ago. That said, the Summerfield tablesaw MUST find a prominent place in this cabinet. Having that hanging in the window isn't preferred over the long-term.

I have more than a couple sets of CHISELS now, as well as turnscrews, that righfully belong in this Not-Wall-Hung. Four Steelcraft socket chisels, room for some planned LN skew chisels, and a couple Isles mortising chisels are each looking for a home.

The whole PLANES thing is pretty much settled with the in-place shelves. The #50 is solidly ensconced in the toolchest now, but the #113 sits on a shelf, out in the open. There are plenty of block planes below the cabinet's shelves; probably too many. Should those or others move into door storage? That's TBD.

With that list addressed somewhat, time to re-visit BYo's Manifesto (slightly edited for clarity):

*Weight:* The heaviest tools from a load bearing perspective should be closest to the wall or back of the cabinet, to decrease the moment arm acting on the wall anchor. This is less critical for a cabinet supported by a stand.

*Ergonomics:* The heaviest tools should reside approximately belly button height, with the lightest tools on the doors. These affect the moment arm the greatest. Think layout tools, chisels and such.

*Volume:* Optimizing storage volume. Directly proportional to weight and probably inversely proportional to accessibility.

*Accessibility:* Place frequently used tools at the ready, e.g. don't bury your favorite square below flip out trays.

*Composition:* Patterns, rhythm, color and texture will have an emotional impact every time you open the doors.

*Flexibility:* Is there an ability to change things up as tools change?

What's Been Addressed: I have the #8 on the lowest shelf. Lighter planes are higher, with a couple exceptions, but nothing in place is a gut-buster. Nothing I'll add from this point comes close to being as heavy as even a jack plane, either, so I'm good with "ERGONOMICS." The other two that I'll check as 'Complete" are WEIGHT and FLEXIBILITY; the former because this cabinet is not wall hung, and the latter in that the caddies are screwed to wood and thereby are moveable should I wish to do so in the future (enough flexiblility for me). That leaves VOLUME, COMPOSITION and ACCESSIBILITY to guide what's to come.

*The Canvas:* I have six door sufaces to compose, with two of the six 'in work.' To keep things straight (yeah, right) there's nomenclature required. For the three pairs, working out from the deepest recesses of the cabinet, I've come up with OAK INSIDE (L&R), OAK OUTSIDE (L&R) and CHERRY (L&R). There are other nooks and crannies that the most inspirational cabinets always make use of. I've noted a few of those areas already and may take advantage as the project moves further along.

*Planning:* Aside from a few tweeks the OAK INSIDES are good for now. I'll be concentrating on building out the CHERRY doors first. The tools I want to put there include CHISELS and TURNSCREWS at a minimum, the TABLESAW, #66 Beading Plane and DRILLS (Gramps' MF plus a BRACE) ideally. Of those, CHISELS and SAW are the most used, followed by the DRILLS, then the #66.

This installment is long enough at this point, so I'll wrap up with a few layout concepts done years ago that would map to the OAK OUTSIDE surfaces. Until next time, thanks for looking!


----------



## ToddJB (Jul 26, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *What was it this Not Wall Hung was supposed to be, again?*
> 
> The build out is proceeding now for a couple of reasons, one being contents. Here's what I said 3 years ago this January:
> 
> ...


What a tremendous amount of thought. Do you always design like that? It's admiral. My tool strorage gets a rough sketch and then I build on the fly.


----------



## GrandpaLen (Mar 6, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *What was it this Not Wall Hung was supposed to be, again?*
> 
> The build out is proceeding now for a couple of reasons, one being contents. Here's what I said 3 years ago this January:
> 
> ...


Shaping up very nicely.

Smitty, this would have made a great main project build in a deltagram, from back in the day.

Work Safely and have Fun. - Len


----------



## putty (Jan 1, 2014)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *What was it this Not Wall Hung was supposed to be, again?*
> 
> The build out is proceeding now for a couple of reasons, one being contents. Here's what I said 3 years ago this January:
> 
> ...


Nice Smitty, I particularly like the chisel rack. Could you cut a slot in the front cover of it so you can see what size chisels are in it?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *What was it this Not Wall Hung was supposed to be, again?*
> 
> The build out is proceeding now for a couple of reasons, one being contents. Here's what I said 3 years ago this January:
> 
> ...


I like that chisel rack layout too, but I'm not sure I could actually build it. Sizes are intuitive after awhile; the SWs i have are in a roll, and I know what they are from left to right. These Everlastings are the same sizes.

No, I don't design like this pretty much ever, Todd. Maybe that's why the cabinet has been three years in the making? That's one mark in favor of tool chests: Open Storage is fall-off-the-truck easy compared to fitting tools in holders in a cabinet.

Len, we'll see if I can stick with it this time around. It's time, doncha think?


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *What was it this Not Wall Hung was supposed to be, again?*
> 
> The build out is proceeding now for a couple of reasons, one being contents. Here's what I said 3 years ago this January:
> 
> ...


Quite the treatise. I reckon you do honor to BYo's machination. Fantastic and thought provoking read Smitty, thank you.

Moment arm even….

I venture to guess that a game of chess with you would be maddening.


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *What was it this Not Wall Hung was supposed to be, again?*
> 
> The build out is proceeding now for a couple of reasons, one being contents. Here's what I said 3 years ago this January:
> 
> ...


Wow, Smitty, you're bordering on art with the 444 and chisel layout! The symmetry is quite pleasing, and I must remember the effect.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *What was it this Not Wall Hung was supposed to be, again?*
> 
> The build out is proceeding now for a couple of reasons, one being contents. Here's what I said 3 years ago this January:
> 
> ...


The chisel house was a nod to Studley's incredible work with his handled tools, but I'm not a piano maker. That layout was the biggest stretch re: capability that I could come up with. And you'll notice several tools in those pics already found homes, like the protractor head. And the #444 now has an original box to live in.

I'm a crappy chess player, Tony. Games I tend to enjoy most are ones that are self-directed, such as golf. Wherever I hit the ball, it's my own fault. Unlike tennis, for example, where the other guy is putting the ball in play where I can't get to it.


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *What was it this Not Wall Hung was supposed to be, again?*
> 
> The build out is proceeding now for a couple of reasons, one being contents. Here's what I said 3 years ago this January:
> 
> ...


I'll suggest the crappy estimation is only result from lack of interest.


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## duckmilk (Oct 10, 2014)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *What was it this Not Wall Hung was supposed to be, again?*
> 
> The build out is proceeding now for a couple of reasons, one being contents. Here's what I said 3 years ago this January:
> 
> ...


Well done Smitty. I love your not-wall-hung cabinet.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*I've Been Framed! (Pt 1)*

One of the earliest questions asked as I prepared to actually build-out CHERRY® and (L) was wood choice. The door is obviously cherry, the shelves within the main carcase are walnut. The inside doors are oak, and the tool caddys completed up to this point inside the oak doors are walnut. Inside of the cabinet is pine, drawer fronts poplar. Which one is best for the tool frames to be placed inside the CHERRY doors? Discuss.
.
.
.
.
.
.
Okay, what'd you decide? Well, I thought about that quite a bit, then decided on reclaimed mahogany frames and inside partitions of T&G poplar. Why? I have a bunch of mahogany stair treads my son picked up at auction a few years ago and it easy to work with hand tools. Here is the raw stock to be used; I'll rip the the edges to aid in re-sawing:










After ripping, to the bandsaw



















With the roughest dimensions in mind, the mahogany was planed to thickness at the Craftsman Alien Head; sorry, no pictures of that operation so you'll have to use your imagination.

Pushed to the forefront now is the need to prep each frame for mounting on the doors themselves. French cleats are one candidate, but would mean building three-sided boxes, essentially, so the cleat would be hidden behind a 'raised back,' if you know what I mean. Another mounting option is incorporating a couple backer strips within each frame, top and bottom, for screwing the frames to the doors directly. Third choice I can think of includes hardware, and although it'd likely be the least work, I don't want to do that.

Naturally, I chose a fourth, hardest option: A fully framed backer. Why? Two words: COMPOSITION and FLEXIBILITY (ADAPTABLE?). Yeah, I know what you're saying. "Hey! He said flexibility was moot, because he was driving screws into wood so all things are variable!" It's true, I did say that, but there's more. I'm adding a bit to the concept of flexibility, in that the layout of the partitions is more adaptable IF there's opportunity to hold things in place using fasteners from behind. And that doubles the COMPOSITION piece of the puzzle as well. The plan is to dado the frames to accept a rabetted backer; that solid backer will in turn be screwed into the doors at each inside corner (four screws). Solid.

The length of the frames will be max allowable, depth will be max'd as well. I've got four inches of inside depth to fill, and the side frames are set a full quarter inch shy of that max. A good start.










I then decided to add an ogee-type detail to the ends of each of the vertical frame pieces. Yes, I'm building two frames even though the layout of either is way undefined at this stage.



















Rasp work cleaned up the ogee tops.










Now to match sides with bottoms, and for that it's dovetails. The evening's planned work was pretty straightforward: Complete the dovetail joinery on each pair of side frames to create three-sided frames. And I have pictures of doing just that.




























The work was familiar and went pretty well, time for test fit.










You'll notice an imperfection on the bottom piece and it's not the only one. I had to add some pieces to some boards to make max use of material, and there are also some blemishes and nail holes on the final pieces that add to the character factor as well. Just the reality of using salvaged material (the whole cabinet thusfar, right??). I then decided to do a cove detail on the side rails using the Craftsman shaper. After replacing a very worn belt on said shaper, it was done.




























That said, all they while I was going through the dovetailing motions, I was thinking about a preferred method of joining the top-most rail to the sides, given the decorative finial at the top prevents dovetails being employed there. I mean, don't you think something's missing?










I seriously considered through-tenons for the better part of the evening then decided to go with sliding dovetails. And that means using the Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane, or Stanley #444. It's been a couple years since I've last experimented with the tool…










Donor board went pretty well!










So it was on to the top pieces.



















So it was onto grooving the side rails, and even with more practice cuts it didn't go well. The recessed angle of the groove was not being clearly defined by the spur, the cutter wasn't engaging well at the bottom of the cut, and the plane was incredibly difficult to work in a consistent back-and-forth motion. Just not good. So after a day thinking about it, I revisited the spur. Sure enough, it was dull; worst of the four on the tool. Couldn't swap it with a sharp one, because it's unique to the left side of the plane. Some time at the stones got it slicing cross-grain well, so I put it back in place and tried again.










The groove's finished sidewall was still not good, and the plane still wasn't working smoothly. What now? I was tightening up the spur when I noticed it: the newly honed spur was standing proud of the plane's main body! It was, in essence, too thick for the area milled to receive it. The way to correct that involved more work at the Arkansas stone.










Once that was done the tool's performance was significantly improved, but there was still an issue: I was having to work way too hard to get the cutter to remove material at the bottom of the groove. Two things were done to improve this: I slightly reshaped the primary bevel AND extended the cutter a little more from the bottom of the tool. Not real excited about that second part, but for now it'll have to do. So after all this work, it was time to complete the cuts on the side rails.










Structurally, the joint is a success. Aesthetically, total zero because of the issues I had making the groove cuts. This is the first of two, so there's an expectation that results will improve. I won't show the real ugly, but this shadowy image instead. 










Before moving on to the second cut, I took a third look at the smallest cutter. I was extending the iron from the plane's sole more than I was comfortable with (relies on chance more than precision for depth of cut) and it was because the 22 degree angle still wasn't right on the cutter. Why in the name of all things Stanley would I have a cutter that's not sharp and fully shaped, you ask? Well, when I did the videos and accompanying T&G Plane blog several years ago, I didn't use this cutter at all; the middle one was the only one I tuned fully. Now it's come home to roost, I guess. So out came the grinder.

After several minutes, the cutter was properly shaped and angled. Reinstalled in the plane, and was cutting grooves in donor material as I remembered years back. It was fun, and made that wonderful planing noise we all love so much. 
So the second cut went better than the first, and I brought a new tool to the task: a Starret No. 236 depth gauge. This was a tremendous help to know when the cut was supposed to bottom out to match the tongues made in a previous session. Love it, glad it's in the Cabinet, and won't cut T&Gs without it again.

In the meantime, I'll need to do something to hide the ugliness in the finished product. That's all for now!

We do have pair of assemblies though!










Next time, backer material.


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## MLWilson (Jun 28, 2015)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *I've Been Framed! (Pt 1)*
> 
> One of the earliest questions asked as I prepared to actually build-out CHERRY® and (L) was wood choice. The door is obviously cherry, the shelves within the main carcase are walnut. The inside doors are oak, and the tool caddys completed up to this point inside the oak doors are walnut. Inside of the cabinet is pine, drawer fronts poplar. Which one is best for the tool frames to be placed inside the CHERRY doors? Discuss.
> .
> ...


Smitty, if ever you wonder if anyone actually reads all the words, as well as looks at the photos, I do. And, I enjoy the ride. Thanks for sharing. A practitioner of the Wooden Artes would really to well to gratefully receive tutelage in carpentry, when it's offered. It's a wonderful cabinet, and a fitting repository for a steward of great tools.


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## yuridichesky (Jan 9, 2013)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *I've Been Framed! (Pt 1)*
> 
> One of the earliest questions asked as I prepared to actually build-out CHERRY® and (L) was wood choice. The door is obviously cherry, the shelves within the main carcase are walnut. The inside doors are oak, and the tool caddys completed up to this point inside the oak doors are walnut. Inside of the cabinet is pine, drawer fronts poplar. Which one is best for the tool frames to be placed inside the CHERRY doors? Discuss.
> .
> ...


This #444 looks so impressive and performs so well.
Great reading, thank you.


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## albachippie (Feb 2, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *I've Been Framed! (Pt 1)*
> 
> One of the earliest questions asked as I prepared to actually build-out CHERRY® and (L) was wood choice. The door is obviously cherry, the shelves within the main carcase are walnut. The inside doors are oak, and the tool caddys completed up to this point inside the oak doors are walnut. Inside of the cabinet is pine, drawer fronts poplar. Which one is best for the tool frames to be placed inside the CHERRY doors? Discuss.
> .
> ...


Very nicely done, and I love the extensive use of hand tools. I too read all the words! Really enjoyable read.

Thanks for sharing,

Garry


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *I've Been Framed! (Pt 1)*
> 
> One of the earliest questions asked as I prepared to actually build-out CHERRY® and (L) was wood choice. The door is obviously cherry, the shelves within the main carcase are walnut. The inside doors are oak, and the tool caddys completed up to this point inside the oak doors are walnut. Inside of the cabinet is pine, drawer fronts poplar. Which one is best for the tool frames to be placed inside the CHERRY doors? Discuss.
> .
> ...


You are clearly having a great time with those venerable hand tools Smitty and getting good results with them too.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *I've Been Framed! (Pt 1)*
> 
> One of the earliest questions asked as I prepared to actually build-out CHERRY® and (L) was wood choice. The door is obviously cherry, the shelves within the main carcase are walnut. The inside doors are oak, and the tool caddys completed up to this point inside the oak doors are walnut. Inside of the cabinet is pine, drawer fronts poplar. Which one is best for the tool frames to be placed inside the CHERRY doors? Discuss.
> .
> ...


I do wonder sometimes! Glad y'all are enjoying it, and there's only backer standing between now and actually staging tools in this cabinet. That'll be the payoff, but also the part I'm looking forward to the least. Too much detail work, I think. No stopping now, right?


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *I've Been Framed! (Pt 1)*
> 
> One of the earliest questions asked as I prepared to actually build-out CHERRY® and (L) was wood choice. The door is obviously cherry, the shelves within the main carcase are walnut. The inside doors are oak, and the tool caddys completed up to this point inside the oak doors are walnut. Inside of the cabinet is pine, drawer fronts poplar. Which one is best for the tool frames to be placed inside the CHERRY doors? Discuss.
> .
> ...


I love the frames, the fettling and tuning of the #444 gave me a little anxiety though. 

Always a joy to see your work and read about the process. Thank you Smitty!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *I've Been Framed! (Pt 1)*
> 
> One of the earliest questions asked as I prepared to actually build-out CHERRY® and (L) was wood choice. The door is obviously cherry, the shelves within the main carcase are walnut. The inside doors are oak, and the tool caddys completed up to this point inside the oak doors are walnut. Inside of the cabinet is pine, drawer fronts poplar. Which one is best for the tool frames to be placed inside the CHERRY doors? Discuss.
> .
> ...


Taking a step back, there's just a ton of behind the scenes effort (relatively speaking) that goes on before tools even have a chance to be fitted. I guess it'd be less so with 'lectrical tools and simpler (but just as stout) joinery. Clearly an example of a hobbyist doing things to aggravate himself, I think.


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## GrandpaLen (Mar 6, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *I've Been Framed! (Pt 1)*
> 
> One of the earliest questions asked as I prepared to actually build-out CHERRY® and (L) was wood choice. The door is obviously cherry, the shelves within the main carcase are walnut. The inside doors are oak, and the tool caddys completed up to this point inside the oak doors are walnut. Inside of the cabinet is pine, drawer fronts poplar. Which one is best for the tool frames to be placed inside the CHERRY doors? Discuss.
> .
> ...


...you are a man of fine mettle and true grit. *;-)*

Blog on Dude.
Work Safely and have Fun. - Len


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*Framed, Pt. 2*

I haven't talked about the choice of poplar T&G for the backs of these frames, so let's revisit the past just a bit. The main carcase of the "Not Wall Hung" has 1/2" T&G poplar for backer boards, and I have more of it left. Where did it come from? I honestly have no idea at this point, but it's one of those caches of material that I saw and couldn't pass up at the time, then kept on hand for (possible) future use. I originally thought of using some 1/4" bead board, but once it was planed smooth of some residual glue material there wasn't much material left to hold the weight of fully loaded tool panels. So, poplar wins. And consistency counts for something, right?

Anyway, here are a couple of pics of the frames laid over the original-concept pine as well as poplar backer boards; I did this to rough out the width and lengths required.


















I could place these backers into simple rabbets, but that seems too easy. That, and I'm also concerned about structural resilience; I don't want to worry about these things holding together once in place. So I decided to create floating panels via table saw and the Venerable #78 Fillister. First the 'gauge' that would be used to verify the dado cuts to be made in the frames:










I cut the frames at the table saw (carefully!), then did some fit checks; note there's chisel work needed to reach the ends of each dado in the frames.




























Time for longer panel cuts.










It took a while, but I finally reached Nirvana with these tool panels. Had to rip the top cross pieces (the poplar will be screwed to those at final assembly):










The two frames may look identical, but they're actually not. The Cherry L frame is narrower by about an inch, to allow clean access to the flush bolt that secures the left door. The Cherry R frame, although wider than the left, also has a bit of hardware to compete with: the cabinet's lock is in the way. I decided to max out width (and ensure mounting screws could reach door frame material) by creating a mortise of sorts on the backside of the frame assembly.




























The result of all this effort is a pair of 'blank slate' tool frames, ready for caddies!










Nothing permanently assembled yet. Now to work on tool layouts, so there's more to come! To see more shop stuff I'm working on, you're invited to visit my blog. Thanks for looking.


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## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Framed, Pt. 2*
> 
> I haven't talked about the choice of poplar T&G for the backs of these frames, so let's revisit the past just a bit. The main carcase of the "Not Wall Hung" has 1/2" T&G poplar for backer boards, and I have more of it left. Where did it come from? I honestly have no idea at this point, but it's one of those caches of material that I saw and couldn't pass up at the time, then kept on hand for (possible) future use. I originally thought of using some 1/4" bead board, but once it was planed smooth of some residual glue material there wasn't much material left to hold the weight of fully loaded tool panels. So, poplar wins. And consistency counts for something, right?
> 
> ...


Loving this series Smitty! I like the beaded T&G boards. I used the same for the back of my saw till too


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Framed, Pt. 2*
> 
> I haven't talked about the choice of poplar T&G for the backs of these frames, so let's revisit the past just a bit. The main carcase of the "Not Wall Hung" has 1/2" T&G poplar for backer boards, and I have more of it left. Where did it come from? I honestly have no idea at this point, but it's one of those caches of material that I saw and couldn't pass up at the time, then kept on hand for (possible) future use. I originally thought of using some 1/4" bead board, but once it was planed smooth of some residual glue material there wasn't much material left to hold the weight of fully loaded tool panels. So, poplar wins. And consistency counts for something, right?
> 
> ...


Glad the poplar won out in the end. Things like the mortise customization is the good stuff found when looking over hand made pieces.

Thanks for taking the time to share Smitty.


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## putty (Jan 1, 2014)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Framed, Pt. 2*
> 
> I haven't talked about the choice of poplar T&G for the backs of these frames, so let's revisit the past just a bit. The main carcase of the "Not Wall Hung" has 1/2" T&G poplar for backer boards, and I have more of it left. Where did it come from? I honestly have no idea at this point, but it's one of those caches of material that I saw and couldn't pass up at the time, then kept on hand for (possible) future use. I originally thought of using some 1/4" bead board, but once it was planed smooth of some residual glue material there wasn't much material left to hold the weight of fully loaded tool panels. So, poplar wins. And consistency counts for something, right?
> 
> ...


Very nice Smitty, I like the old look, like its been around for a hundred years


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## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Framed, Pt. 2*
> 
> I haven't talked about the choice of poplar T&G for the backs of these frames, so let's revisit the past just a bit. The main carcase of the "Not Wall Hung" has 1/2" T&G poplar for backer boards, and I have more of it left. Where did it come from? I honestly have no idea at this point, but it's one of those caches of material that I saw and couldn't pass up at the time, then kept on hand for (possible) future use. I originally thought of using some 1/4" bead board, but once it was planed smooth of some residual glue material there wasn't much material left to hold the weight of fully loaded tool panels. So, poplar wins. And consistency counts for something, right?
> 
> ...


Wow, I missed the frames going together somehow. Looks superb! The detail at the top of the door frame is very classy.

T&G looks great!

So, is the 'Not Wall-Hung' because you don't plan to actually hang it? Looks fab sitting as is!


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## duckmilk (Oct 10, 2014)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Framed, Pt. 2*
> 
> I haven't talked about the choice of poplar T&G for the backs of these frames, so let's revisit the past just a bit. The main carcase of the "Not Wall Hung" has 1/2" T&G poplar for backer boards, and I have more of it left. Where did it come from? I honestly have no idea at this point, but it's one of those caches of material that I saw and couldn't pass up at the time, then kept on hand for (possible) future use. I originally thought of using some 1/4" bead board, but once it was planed smooth of some residual glue material there wasn't much material left to hold the weight of fully loaded tool panels. So, poplar wins. And consistency counts for something, right?
> 
> ...


Very nice Smitty, it looks like it was there when you moved in.


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## 489tad (Feb 26, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Framed, Pt. 2*
> 
> I haven't talked about the choice of poplar T&G for the backs of these frames, so let's revisit the past just a bit. The main carcase of the "Not Wall Hung" has 1/2" T&G poplar for backer boards, and I have more of it left. Where did it come from? I honestly have no idea at this point, but it's one of those caches of material that I saw and couldn't pass up at the time, then kept on hand for (possible) future use. I originally thought of using some 1/4" bead board, but once it was planed smooth of some residual glue material there wasn't much material left to hold the weight of fully loaded tool panels. So, poplar wins. And consistency counts for something, right?
> 
> ...


Smitty that is something. The bead work shows nothing less than skilled.


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## 85497 (Apr 3, 2013)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Framed, Pt. 2*
> 
> I haven't talked about the choice of poplar T&G for the backs of these frames, so let's revisit the past just a bit. The main carcase of the "Not Wall Hung" has 1/2" T&G poplar for backer boards, and I have more of it left. Where did it come from? I honestly have no idea at this point, but it's one of those caches of material that I saw and couldn't pass up at the time, then kept on hand for (possible) future use. I originally thought of using some 1/4" bead board, but once it was planed smooth of some residual glue material there wasn't much material left to hold the weight of fully loaded tool panels. So, poplar wins. And consistency counts for something, right?
> 
> ...


Love it! As usual, your is always spot on.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Framed, Pt. 2*
> 
> I haven't talked about the choice of poplar T&G for the backs of these frames, so let's revisit the past just a bit. The main carcase of the "Not Wall Hung" has 1/2" T&G poplar for backer boards, and I have more of it left. Where did it come from? I honestly have no idea at this point, but it's one of those caches of material that I saw and couldn't pass up at the time, then kept on hand for (possible) future use. I originally thought of using some 1/4" bead board, but once it was planed smooth of some residual glue material there wasn't much material left to hold the weight of fully loaded tool panels. So, poplar wins. And consistency counts for something, right?
> 
> ...


Thanks for commenting, everyone!

After experimenting with a number of layouts, what I want to do with one door in particular will take a bunch of work. And posting updates while the work is going on will kill the fun of presentation IF I'm able to pull it off at all. So unless I come up with another plan to share glimpses, time to wait for a reveal of sorts.

I do have both CHERRYL and CHERRYR arrangements worked out though, that's the good news.


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## BurlyBob (Mar 13, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Framed, Pt. 2*
> 
> I haven't talked about the choice of poplar T&G for the backs of these frames, so let's revisit the past just a bit. The main carcase of the "Not Wall Hung" has 1/2" T&G poplar for backer boards, and I have more of it left. Where did it come from? I honestly have no idea at this point, but it's one of those caches of material that I saw and couldn't pass up at the time, then kept on hand for (possible) future use. I originally thought of using some 1/4" bead board, but once it was planed smooth of some residual glue material there wasn't much material left to hold the weight of fully loaded tool panels. So, poplar wins. And consistency counts for something, right?
> 
> ...


That is a Jim Dandy! Can't wait to see wearing it's full tool outfit. That will be soemthing to see.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Framed, Pt. 2*
> 
> I haven't talked about the choice of poplar T&G for the backs of these frames, so let's revisit the past just a bit. The main carcase of the "Not Wall Hung" has 1/2" T&G poplar for backer boards, and I have more of it left. Where did it come from? I honestly have no idea at this point, but it's one of those caches of material that I saw and couldn't pass up at the time, then kept on hand for (possible) future use. I originally thought of using some 1/4" bead board, but once it was planed smooth of some residual glue material there wasn't much material left to hold the weight of fully loaded tool panels. So, poplar wins. And consistency counts for something, right?
> 
> ...


Wonderful, it really becomes a treasure cabinet.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*

'Okay,' you might ask, 'Where has this guy been since posting this last February?':

-Nothing permanently assembled yet. Now to work on tool layouts, so there's more to come!

The key to that post was it's ending: Nothing assembled… and that's where we'll focus now. The 'tool panels' created in the last pair of installments are on the doors known as CherryR and CherryL. And now I'm calling them sub panels because they're more than frames at this point. The frames are assembled with through dovetails at the bottom corners and sliding dovetailed at the top. Some pics to refresh our collective memory:





































And that last picture above, you might recall, was dark and ratty on purpose… I wasn't happy with the sliding dovetail on one of the pair of sub panels and knew a day of reckoning would come. Well, that's what we'll deal with first. The dovetail (DT) groove was too wide at the neck of the joint for the tongue board. Strange terminology? Here's the key, followed by the offensive joint.



















I started the day with this plan: Cut a pair of shims about 4" long to lay inside the angled edge of the groove, filling the void before glue-up. Why that approach? Because the stiles of each frame have way too much labor invested just to redo for a tighter DT joint. Cutting and smoothing these pieces was going to be chore too, but it was the plan.

Then, I had one of those (increasingly rare!) "Why didn't I think of this sooner?" moments: Simply make a new rail (horizontal) piece out of thicker stock, re-cut tongues on each end, and fill the oversize grooves that way? It's The Revelation! So, cut and plane and smooth a new board, then work the tongues w/ the #444. (And a Shout Out to DanK for the idea to add material to the bevel fence to facilitate 'smaller depth' tongue cutting!)














































The result was a dramatically improved joint:










Glue-up of the through dovetails went smoothly with Titebond 2 and flux brush and square:




























After a day for the glue to cure, it was time to smooth the through-dovetails w/ the Stanley #9 (I really love that plane as a smoother!)



















To mount the sub panels to the doors, at least initially, I decided to remove the doors from the Not Wall Hung and bring them to the bench for panel fitting.










Holes were drilled at the corners, through poplar T&G backboards that you'll recall are fully housed via stopped dadoes. The holes were the reamed for screw heads.



















I attached the sub panels to the doors (no pictures of that), then re-hung the doors, Noticed the MF #61A drill-driver in the open tool chest and tried it on the hing screws… I've had the tool for many years, even bought the hex adapter for it from Lee Valley, but never used it until now. The screws were sent home so fast, it was incredible! Going to reach for this more often now, I think.










And so, bottom line, the sub panels are now installed on the doors of the Not Wall Hung! Without further adieu, then:










The floor is clear of the sub panels for the first time since February, a very good thing! And now (I promise!) tool holders can be invented to pull a goodly number of hand tools into more accessible locations within the Not Wall Hung. That's already underway, so hopefully it won't be long until there's another installment OR an actual project post for this cabinet. Until then, thanks for looking and 'bye for now!


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## Woodwrecker (Aug 11, 2008)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
> 
> 'Okay,' you might ask, 'Where has this guy been since posting this last February?':
> 
> ...


I love ya brother, but this build is taking waaay too long.
Let me know when it's done.


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## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
> 
> 'Okay,' you might ask, 'Where has this guy been since posting this last February?':
> 
> ...


Hey, your back! Good! 'Bout time!

Work looks good Smitty and I'm glad your getting back to shop projects. Maybe you add glass doors. Just sayin'


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## GrandpaLen (Mar 6, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
> 
> 'Okay,' you might ask, 'Where has this guy been since posting this last February?':
> 
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Your remarkable effort, in putting together your not-so-humble Not Wall Hung tool cabinet, is a breath of fresh air with each updating post.
Your re-purposed Hoosier Cabinet is turning into a fabulous tool locker. 
It's been a long hot summer with most of my endeavors out in the sun. I'm almost looking forward to having to turn on a little heat in the shop come November. 

Best Regards. - Len
Work Safely and have Fun.


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## iceman50 (Jan 9, 2013)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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Another effort to be proud of.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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Eric, I'm feeling the pain too.

Good to make some shavings again, Kevin. Glass, hmmm…

It has been a very hot summer Len! I appreciate the encouragement. Doing some outfitting of CherryR tonight, actually, so the next installment won't be long in coming.

Thanks, Ice!


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## MLWilson (Jun 28, 2015)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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That's wonderful.
But…
Dja think, mebees, if you cut a dado that would fit the tongue into a piece of scrap, glue the tongue into it, thereby "undoing the tongue," you could've re-cut the tongue to fit the dado? 
Next time?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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And that idea surfaced as well, Mark! The 'new' cross piece is 1/8" thicker than it's mate in CherryL; less noticeable than any approach I cyphered. And easier too, as it turns out.


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## duckmilk (Oct 10, 2014)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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Thanks for the update Smitty! I love the looks of this. I'll have to go back and review, especially since I'm going to have to build some more cabinets this fall or winter.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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Get it smitty!


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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Another great installment; fun that DanK contributed to it too. Nice to see/know that the #9 is more than just good looks and that it can be appreciated for its capabilities as well.

Interesting bit about you discovering the merits of the drill/driver. I had hoped to use mine as a quick pilot hole creator (much to my disappointment) and also found it removes too much control/feel as a driver for my liking. But your embrace of it makes me second guess my dismissal of its usefulness.

Always a pleasure seeing your work and process. Thank you for taking the time to share it Smitty!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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Hi Tony!

Interesting tool, the #9. I don't remember who was using it in a furniture video I saw a couple years back now, but it was a smoother for them of furniture pieces they were working. The left hand goes over and across the top of the tool, with the rear knob completely encased in the right hand. Similar (I guess) to the way one might use a wooden jack OR a coffin smoother. After a few tries using it this way (it's gotta be wicked sharp), it's something that's stuck with me.

RE: the MF driver… I was pushing screws into screw holes that were already there, so this run I'd compare to using training wheels on a bicycle. But I'm a less-than-nube with it so far. And with expectations low, we'll see what it can and can't do over the next year or so. What kind you got? Did you get a hex adapter and use those hex-based bits for pilot holes, or ?

Duck, your shop cabinets will be done before this one! And thanks, Fridge!


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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Heya Smitty!

Mine is also a Miller Falls but I can't tell you the # off the top of my head. It has a shorter throw(?) than yours and that may be part of the problem. I did not purchase the adapter but Lee Valley offers a variety of bits/drill here that are compatible with the Yankee drivers of which I bought a variety. The drill bit (no longer offered it seems) is similar to a spoon bit and may not be ideal for pilot hole creation.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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I have an old Craftsman push drill that needs those fluted bits that aren't available anymore other than flea-bay; without those, the bit stays in the wood being drilled.

That's the extent of my experience with push drills and pilot holes, aside from a crappy (quite honestly) driver that was my grandad's that sits in the toolbox. Shorter, like the one you might be describing. It's a Yankee derivative that actually does work as advertised but doesn't have the smooth action this MF does.


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## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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Very complex, but nice looking build! Sure looks close to completion now.

From tambour doors to sliding DT's, I have trouble remembering how you solve the little problems, but always enjoy the lessons and photos!

I think it was Doucette and Wolfe that uses the No.9 all the time for joinery-smoothing?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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^ Yes, that's the video!


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## ToddJB (Jul 26, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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Dang Smitty. I love you willingness to "sit" with a project - instead of rushing through it just so that it can get checked off the list.

I too am impressed with seeing one of the those drill/drivers in use. I have a Yankee and every time I've attempted to use it it has not gone as planned.


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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The dill bit was still available when I bought the set Smitty. It does work to a degree and never gets stuck, although it is ever so slow. Perhaps my expectations were too high, I had imagined two/three pushes for the pilot to be complete (ha!). My eggbeater is more to my liking for piloting needs.

Thank you for the insight.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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I'd like to see a video of some craftsman using a push drill effectively. Like you, the time(s) I tried it wasn't what I thought it'd be. Kinda pushed a bit through the piece vs. drilling it.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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Ideas to hold tools in CherryR…


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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It will be fun to see where this goes.


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## 489tad (Feb 26, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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Picture number 2. I love that. Excellent work.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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The cubby works!


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## ToddJB (Jul 26, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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Indeed it does.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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Hope to have CherryR done by early next week. I have traction on several ideas; making caddies is interesting work but kinda sucks at the same time.


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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What was your thoughts in making a closed space for the beader versus an open arrangement?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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Very, very organic process, Tony.

The mahogany I'm using comes from treads and risers I think were mentioned in a blog 3+ years ago. All the material needs to be ripped, resawn and planed before it's useful. Well, the cubby door came about because I had a piece of scrap in my hand as long as the frame is wide…I said, 'why not a cubby, it'll add visual interest to the piece.' The #66, in the meantime, was in an open wood box that slide into the not wall hung (NWH) that now doesn't fit because of frames. The tool needed a home, it fit the cubby, so it happened. And there's room inside for other things to happen, as you'll see when I get CherryR completed and posted.

It's coming together conceptually, but I'm trying to incorporate a few tools that aren't yet cooperating. A creative approach is needed, so is more shop time than what I'm getting these last few days.


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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Interesting how it all comes together. Thank you Smitty.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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Trying to put this:









In here:









And have it hinged / operating smoothly. Not sure I like this kind of fettling.


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## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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Smitty, I think some sort of large knife hinge would work better especially given the weight of you stuff. Over time I think the current hinges will wear and come loose.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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Looks good though.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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Kevin, here are the hinges to the sub-panel:










I'm confident in my three door hinge approach on each door.

Thanks, Don!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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Eureka!!


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## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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I dunno Smitty, then I'd have to admit you might be right! Bit of a stretch but I think I can live with it. 

You may proceed.

Edit, must type faster.

Edit, edit. Studley looking.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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How chisels stay upright:










Door open:










Chisel cubby!!










Can't believe it works!


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## ToddJB (Jul 26, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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Nioce!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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Thanks Todd. Now to outfit the rest of the inside space behind the chisels. It can be 1 3/8" 'thick' of a tool, with any retaining toggles that might be required.


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## ToddJB (Jul 26, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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Does the table saw blade sit behind the nook, or is it just that short of a blade?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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There is a slice in the top of that nook that accepts the end of the blade of the bench saw. So it serves as a holder.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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Not that anyone is revisting this blog but me  but here's more progress.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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We're not tired of watching yet.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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They fit!


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## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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Unique arrangement Smitty, I like it.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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Thanks, Kevin. All has to fit in a space just a hair under 1 1/8" deep. Limits what can be placed for sure.


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## ToddJB (Jul 26, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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Sweet action.


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## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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Beautiful, Smitty.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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Ditto


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## SamuelP (Feb 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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Every time you post an update, it reminds me of the excitement I felt on Saturday mornings when a new (to me) Monster Movie came on Creature Feature. Great build and great documentation.

Are those SW 750s going to get the same handle treatment as the screwdrivers?

Thanks,


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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So dang slick!!!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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Four more tools ready for fitting in CherryR, then it will be on to CherryL. It looks good to my eye so far. Everything in there comes out with very few wasted motions. The head of the rosewood panel gauge, for example, matches reverse rabbets and rests against the left sidewall of the sub panel. So, just slide it up and over a bit, and it's free. No other 'catches' or toggles required, and it can't fall out of place. The #278 also sits in a rabbet cut into that shelf board. Bad thing about it, though, is the fence and depth stop have to be in the door cubby below. Didn't want to separate them, but in order for it all to fit…

EDIT: Hey Sam, thanks, glad you like the installments and updates. To answer your question, the SW 750s weren't ugly orange; I love those handles… And now that the Everlastings are in the Not Wall Hung, the SWs are out of their leather tool roll and into the Roubo Cabinet, under the bench. Very happy to have them there, too.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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In Jan 2016 I posted this:



> *Planning:* Aside from a few tweeks the OAK INSIDES are good for now. I'll be concentrating on building out the CHERRY doors first. The tools I want to put there include CHISELS and TURNSCREWS at a minimum, the TABLESAW, #66 Beading Plane and DRILLS (Gramps' MF plus a BRACE) ideally. Of those, CHISELS and SAW are the most used, followed by the DRILLS, then the #66.


Looks like I hit all the big ones within CherryR alone with exception of DRILLS. Getting the #278 fitted was a huge plus, though. And by placing the saw behind a chisel pull-out, I might have violated the ACCESSIBILITY clause of B-Yo's manifesto. But it had to be.

As far as the ability to make changes to this layout, I'd rate that as a near-zero possibility, outside of making new sub panels. I'm screwing, nailing and gluing as needed, with little thought to re-arranging. It's just not a priority over getting the best fit for tools I know aren't going anywhere.

*Yes, it's a slow Tuesday so far. Thoughts are on the NWH.


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## GrandpaLen (Mar 6, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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Whew!!

This is going to be the "Not Wall Hung" tool storage cabinet version of the 'Swiss Army Knife'.
...and obviously, we like it …a lot. ;-)

Work Safely and have Fun. - Len


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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Oh, I almost forgot there's room at the TOP!










Not a lot required to make that permanent / secure. More to come.


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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So friggin' Tetris.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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Spot the brass!










And the #98 / #99 rack is getting a MF No. 1 add-on.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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CherryR is done.


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## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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Shall we say perfecto?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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Maybe 'About Time-o'?


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## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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I like it


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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Thanks, Mos and Kevin. i'm very happy with the outcome of this side. Many things stowed now that I wanted in there. It's unique, appeals to my eye and makes effective use of space.


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## SamuelP (Feb 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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Brilliant!


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## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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Very appealing to the eye! I don't know why you don't enjoy this, Smitty? Seems like you are pulling it off with flying colours!

The calendar inside is a sweet touch…


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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Spectacular! That is so very cool Smitty.

The sweet little brass tool is an outside diameter caliper of some sort?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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Tony, yes, it's one that Lost Art Press made and 'sold' at the first (maybe second?) Handworks event in Iowa that I went to. It does inside and outside, and is patterned after one found in the Studley chest. It's not a well-made tool, but looks good so it earned a (small) spot inside the cabinet.

Thanks Terry. The calendar page is the only thing that fits on that inside panel. I need a couple / three more thumbtacks to secure it (push pins prevent the panel from fully closing).

You've stuck with this build all three years too, Sam! A couple more blog installs, then the project post. It'll happen!


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## SamuelP (Feb 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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You do some fantastic Work Smitty. I will feel bad when it comes to an end.


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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Inspirational my good fellow. You're putting me to shame. I have so many tool holders to build, but I never seem to have the time.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
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Andy, I can only imagine the precision you'd be delivering to this task if it were you doing it vs. me. Any inspiration delivered is a very good thing indeed, thanks.

Not done yet, Sam.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
> 
> 'Okay,' you might ask, 'Where has this guy been since posting this last February?':
> 
> ...


The right side is done, including Outside Right Oak:


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## ToddJB (Jul 26, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
> 
> 'Okay,' you might ask, 'Where has this guy been since posting this last February?':
> 
> ...


Mighty fine, Smitty. Moving to the other side?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
> 
> 'Okay,' you might ask, 'Where has this guy been since posting this last February?':
> 
> ...


thank you, and yep!


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
> 
> 'Okay,' you might ask, 'Where has this guy been since posting this last February?':
> 
> ...


It looks fantastic Smitty.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
> 
> 'Okay,' you might ask, 'Where has this guy been since posting this last February?':
> 
> ...


Thanks Tony. I'll definitely do a TourVideo when it's completed, and explain a bit more of the Whys an What Fors when it comes to tools, placement and purpose.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
> 
> 'Okay,' you might ask, 'Where has this guy been since posting this last February?':
> 
> ...


CherryL underway.


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## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
> 
> 'Okay,' you might ask, 'Where has this guy been since posting this last February?':
> 
> ...


A little more to the left


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
> 
> 'Okay,' you might ask, 'Where has this guy been since posting this last February?':
> 
> ...


I have a tool holder / caddy made for the #72 and I definitely want in in CherryL. There's the #113 that also needs a home. But I really, really want a brace and bitset in the door too. The MF 10" just doesn't fit, so I'm going to an 8". There needs to either be layers in CherryL -bits behind brace, specifically- or a bit rack on Outside Left Oak.

Want this done sooner rather than later.


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
> 
> 'Okay,' you might ask, 'Where has this guy been since posting this last February?':
> 
> ...


You're off to a good start there Smitty. Nice MF no.2


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
> 
> 'Okay,' you might ask, 'Where has this guy been since posting this last February?':
> 
> ...


It was my granddad's MF, Brit. My (now deceased) uncle passed it on to me. "Here, I have this old drill of Dad's. Not sure it even works, or if people even use these things anymore, but you're welcome to it" is pretty much how he said it.  Even came with the side knob (needs it's own tool caddy, of course).


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
> 
> 'Okay,' you might ask, 'Where has this guy been since posting this last February?':
> 
> ...


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
> 
> 'Okay,' you might ask, 'Where has this guy been since posting this last February?':
> 
> ...


Problem is, the door won't close with that Pony clamp in place.

Damn, I hate this kind of detail work…


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## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
> 
> 'Okay,' you might ask, 'Where has this guy been since posting this last February?':
> 
> ...


Smitty, did this in the Dutch chest since vertical space was at a premium:


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
> 
> 'Okay,' you might ask, 'Where has this guy been since posting this last February?':
> 
> ...


Brace won't fit 'across' the space… too long. Looks great, wish I did.

At the end of the day, I've come to the realization (reminded myself) that this cabinet isn't a 4' across monster of a build. It's on the small end of the spectrum and only has so much space to leverage. And, it gets closed and locked every night.

I like it the way it is. All I need are the brace and bits, some tasty waves and a cool buzz, and I'm fine.


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## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
> 
> 'Okay,' you might ask, 'Where has this guy been since posting this last February?':
> 
> ...


" some tasty waves and a cool buzz " Right now I could use some of that.


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
> 
> 'Okay,' you might ask, 'Where has this guy been since posting this last February?':
> 
> ...


Tasty.

Waves.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
> 
> 'Okay,' you might ask, 'Where has this guy been since posting this last February?':
> 
> ...


There.


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## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
> 
> 'Okay,' you might ask, 'Where has this guy been since posting this last February?':
> 
> ...


YES.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
> 
> 'Okay,' you might ask, 'Where has this guy been since posting this last February?':
> 
> ...


I'm pleased, I think. Daylight tomorrow, maybe one more addition then Done.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
> 
> 'Okay,' you might ask, 'Where has this guy been since posting this last February?':
> 
> ...


Yeah buddy. I'm getting jealous smitty.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
> 
> 'Okay,' you might ask, 'Where has this guy been since posting this last February?':
> 
> ...


That is some kind of cool!

Edited twice to fix the helpful spell check!


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## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
> 
> 'Okay,' you might ask, 'Where has this guy been since posting this last February?':
> 
> ...


Nicely laid out, Smitty.

I don't think I've seen bits stored like that. Looks like the inner workings of the factory boxes?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Sub (Panel) Plot Thickens...*
> 
> 'Okay,' you might ask, 'Where has this guy been since posting this last February?':
> 
> ...


Terry, yes. I have more than a fair share of 'borchest' boxes of the Irwin variety, and one specifically didn't have the right bits. The holder racks were pulled for this higher calling. Very tight fits for the bits, and take up little space. Had to contour the top board of the CherryL sub panel a bit (so glad I didn't glue that in place a few weeks ago) but that was easy to do.

Thanks, Don!

EDIT: Yes, one more plane. Grandad's SW block will be placed in CherryL as well, then the sub panel will be 'full'.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*Tambour Door Cubby*

Wandering about the Shop in a rather aimless fashion these last couple of evenings, wanting to do something but not sure what. So it's been random cleaning and organizing mostly. And that's when I raised the tambour door of the Not Wall Hung and remembered wanting to build out that space 'someday.'










Well, today's the day.

I've got a couple fillisters, a couple T&G planes, and a diamond point stapler in there now, but there's more that could fit with the addition of a simple shelf. So, let's get busy marking an approximate location.










Then find a nice piece of vintage pine to joint, embellish and smooth.














































Then fashion and install a couple walnut cleats.




























Fit the shelf.










Hit it with some Howard's and load 'er up, job complete!










More tools inside, looks good too. And it brings the "Completion Index" closer to 1.00 for this Not Wall Hung. Now to find some other interesting / long neglected task to work on.


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## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tambour Door Cubby*
> 
> Wandering about the Shop in a rather aimless fashion these last couple of evenings, wanting to do something but not sure what. So it's been random cleaning and organizing mostly. And that's when I raised the tambour door of the Not Wall Hung and remembered wanting to build out that space 'someday.'
> 
> ...


Yup, pretty damn good. Good job with the beader too.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tambour Door Cubby*
> 
> Wandering about the Shop in a rather aimless fashion these last couple of evenings, wanting to do something but not sure what. So it's been random cleaning and organizing mostly. And that's when I raised the tambour door of the Not Wall Hung and remembered wanting to build out that space 'someday.'
> 
> ...


Yeah buddy. Those long awaited jobs feel the best when done in my opinion.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tambour Door Cubby*
> 
> Wandering about the Shop in a rather aimless fashion these last couple of evenings, wanting to do something but not sure what. So it's been random cleaning and organizing mostly. And that's when I raised the tambour door of the Not Wall Hung and remembered wanting to build out that space 'someday.'
> 
> ...


And with it just being cleats screwed to the side walls, the space can be adjusted / reworked at anytime based on need. Thanks guys.


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## AgentTwitch (Oct 29, 2008)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tambour Door Cubby*
> 
> Wandering about the Shop in a rather aimless fashion these last couple of evenings, wanting to do something but not sure what. So it's been random cleaning and organizing mostly. And that's when I raised the tambour door of the Not Wall Hung and remembered wanting to build out that space 'someday.'
> 
> ...


I really like the style of your workshop projects, great job. I enjoy following along


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## gulottab (Oct 12, 2015)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tambour Door Cubby*
> 
> Wandering about the Shop in a rather aimless fashion these last couple of evenings, wanting to do something but not sure what. So it's been random cleaning and organizing mostly. And that's when I raised the tambour door of the Not Wall Hung and remembered wanting to build out that space 'someday.'
> 
> ...


Looks great Smitty!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tambour Door Cubby*
> 
> Wandering about the Shop in a rather aimless fashion these last couple of evenings, wanting to do something but not sure what. So it's been random cleaning and organizing mostly. And that's when I raised the tambour door of the Not Wall Hung and remembered wanting to build out that space 'someday.'
> 
> ...


T'ain't nuttin' but a shelf board, of course, but I'm happy. And was fun posting something to LJs with a lot of pics, because it's been awhile.


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## DLK (Nov 26, 2014)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tambour Door Cubby*
> 
> Wandering about the Shop in a rather aimless fashion these last couple of evenings, wanting to do something but not sure what. So it's been random cleaning and organizing mostly. And that's when I raised the tambour door of the Not Wall Hung and remembered wanting to build out that space 'someday.'
> 
> ...


I like the cool detail added to the shelf with the 66 beader. I just picked up a set of standard blades for mine. Looks like fun.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tambour Door Cubby*
> 
> Wandering about the Shop in a rather aimless fashion these last couple of evenings, wanting to do something but not sure what. So it's been random cleaning and organizing mostly. And that's when I raised the tambour door of the Not Wall Hung and remembered wanting to build out that space 'someday.'
> 
> ...


looks like a fun day in the shop!


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tambour Door Cubby*
> 
> Wandering about the Shop in a rather aimless fashion these last couple of evenings, wanting to do something but not sure what. So it's been random cleaning and organizing mostly. And that's when I raised the tambour door of the Not Wall Hung and remembered wanting to build out that space 'someday.'
> 
> ...


Looks great Smitty. It must be nice and calm in your shop working with hand tools. Thank you for reminding me of the proper name 'tambour' for the door style. I was trying to remember it when I read a recent project post of a breadbox with one and could only think of the words 'roll top'. My English is getting worse every year and my Norwegian isn't any better either.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tambour Door Cubby*
> 
> Wandering about the Shop in a rather aimless fashion these last couple of evenings, wanting to do something but not sure what. So it's been random cleaning and organizing mostly. And that's when I raised the tambour door of the Not Wall Hung and remembered wanting to build out that space 'someday.'
> 
> ...


Hey Mike, thanks! Yes, it's pretty laid back and quiet in the shop when I work, except for the radio and an occasional RAS spin up. Glad I could help w/ the english lesson too! 

It was a fun little project, just the right amount of work vs. play, and done from start to finish in just over an hour.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tambour Door Cubby*
> 
> Wandering about the Shop in a rather aimless fashion these last couple of evenings, wanting to do something but not sure what. So it's been random cleaning and organizing mostly. And that's when I raised the tambour door of the Not Wall Hung and remembered wanting to build out that space 'someday.'
> 
> ...


Sounds like a great little project. I need to find time for a few more of those in my shop as the weather warms.


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Tambour Door Cubby*
> 
> Wandering about the Shop in a rather aimless fashion these last couple of evenings, wanting to do something but not sure what. So it's been random cleaning and organizing mostly. And that's when I raised the tambour door of the Not Wall Hung and remembered wanting to build out that space 'someday.'
> 
> ...


Elegant touches in that simplicity.


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