# Do I need a Jointer Plane?



## 12strings (Nov 15, 2011)

I am a woodworker on a very small budget, and would like to spend my birthday money on a Larger plane to use as a jointer. I will be looking to spend no more than $100, so I'm looking at old stanleys. So Here's my question:

Do I really need a No.7 or No.8? Or will a No. 6 Work almost as well?

There is a local antique market where I got a nice No.5 that I'm really happy with…they also have a No.6 Corrugated bottom that is pretty nice.

If I am preping small stock (for door frames, small tables, occasionally jointing edges) Can I get by using the No. 5 first, then the No. 6 for flattening, then a smoother?

O should I hold out and buy a No.7 or make a larger wooden jointer plane?

Thanks?


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## BrandonW (Apr 27, 2010)

My guess is that a #7 would be a good fit and I see them on ebay go for much under #100. I have a #6 and an #8 and I generally break out my #8 for jointing, but man is that thing heavy.


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## croessler (Jun 22, 2007)

My #5 is the most used plane in my arsenal. Having said that, here is what I normally do when prepping stock by hand.

1. With a cambered blade in my #5 I flatten across the grain checking for high spots created by cupping, twisting etc…

2. Using my old pre-lateral #8 I will take smoothing passes across the grain this finishes leveling the cross width

3. Use the #8 with the grain

4. Use a smoother with the grain.

I believe that a #5 or #6 along with a smoother can provide you the functionality you are looking for initially. It is nice to have multiple planes and blades setup to do the job as it can save you a bit of time.


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## Dcase (Jul 7, 2010)

I would hold out and get a #7. The 6 may work fine but if it was me I would start with the #7.


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## TCCcabinetmaker (Dec 14, 2011)

To those of us who don't have stanley numbered planes… I have no clue if you're talking about the 18" jack, the 22" jointer or the 28" jointer….

What I can say though, in non-numbered speak  Is that with jointing, the longer your (sole) or fence, the straighter the joint is. I've used my 18" jack on some 12' hickory before and it took a bit more work than it would have with a 22" or even 48" jointer.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

The no. 7 is the one to get. No. 8 planes are real heavy.

You can make your own jointer plane easily enough. Once
you make a couple of planes you'll think of it as an easy thing
to do.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

I've got all of them and I probably prefer the #7 for 4/4 stock (what I generally use). The #8 will get things very flat but like Loren mentions, it's very big and has a bit of a technique learning curve. It's fairly easy to tip the plane. If you like the wide #6, though, you might actually prefer the #8. If I could only have 1 plane, it would probably be the #7.


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## 12strings (Nov 15, 2011)

I have actually made one wooden plane already, It works well enough to be a scrub plane or fore plane. I'm not really adept at setting the iron with a mallet yet, so I have trouble getting the exact depth of cut that I want, but I would definitely be willing to try again. I'm thinking of making one of beech or Cherry, or whatever else Menards has. Any suggestions?

I Just through I'd get this No.6 Stanley for $35 if I thought it would work nearly as well.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

^The #6 is tippy to me but it should handle most projects.


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## 12strings (Nov 15, 2011)

Also, for you non-stanley guys, the #6 is 18', #7 is 22' & #8 is 24".


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## drfunk (Jan 26, 2011)

I'm going to buck the trend here and say the 6 will work fine - especially if you are already working with dimensional lumber and small stock. If you are working rough cut lumber or especially long pieces then a 7 or 8 (or longer) makes sense. IMO even a 5 - if set up properly - makes a fine jointer on small stock. Since I only occasionally work with non-dimensional lumber I usually have my 5 set up like a jointer and the 7 & 8 rarely come out of their climate controlled hyperbaric chamber.


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## wingate_52 (May 14, 2011)

I would go for a No.7. The 8 is long and heavy, You need a big bench to use it and somewhere to store it. No 7.


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## wingate_52 (May 14, 2011)

My Record no.7 with the end on.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

A 6 would work,especially if you're doing shorter work. That said, for gluing up panels I always grab my 8. I like the fact that its heavy. I have a 7 and would certainly use it more if I didn't have the 8.

In theory, your 5 would work if you don't have a camber on your blade. You just need to pay more attention to detail with a shorter plane. If you really want a plane for jointing, you really should get a #7 though. You won't regret it and should be able to pick one up under $100 easily. I've bought 2 #7s, one for $35, and one for $45, one on ebay and one locally. Be patient and look, you should be able to get one under $50 that would need minimal restoring.


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## BrandonW (Apr 27, 2010)

Perhaps the question is which plane should you get next, because I'm sure you'll eventually want all of the numbers. If you can get a decent #6 for $35, I'd say go for it. You can even probably find a #7 that needs a good cleaning for the remainder of your $100.


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## drfunk (Jan 26, 2011)

Remember, a number 6 is only a short Chris Schwarz blog post away from being the best and most sought after plane in all the universe. (same with all the other planes he posts about)


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Well, I've got every bench plane # except #1. Many I have multiples of. If I had to give one of them up, it would be hard to decide, but if I could only have 3, it would be a 4 (although I really like the 4 1/2 to) a #5, and a #7 or #8.

Although to get my 62 you'd have to pry it from my cold dead fingers.


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

I use #3, #4c, #7, a well tuned Stanley England-made low angle G12-060, and a BUNCH of wooden molding planes.
I would like to see a design for a nice fence for the #7 to insure a good 90 degree edge. Oh, a small Stanley bullnose, a spoke shave, blah, blah, blah.
In other words, you can work with what ya have.
Whatever you do, learn to tune and sharpen your tools. Remember that you can shave, carve an animal, cut yourself with a piece of sharp rock, scrape a fine piece of furniture with a piece of steel. The true art is learning how to use the tools you have.
Fine books were written with a feather quill. Cave art was done by spewing coloring from the mouth of "primitive" man.
Want me to continue?
Bill


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## wingate_52 (May 14, 2011)

As well as the 7 posted above. I have 2 6's, 1 5 1/2 which is my shooting board plane. 5 5's, 2 short 5's, 1 4 1/2 which does not get much use, I have never liked it, it was my first plane along with a no.6. 5 4's and a brilliant 3. I have a handleless 5 at school for the other pair of shooting boards. All the above are Stanley of Records. I have a brilliant 3 bladed Quangsheng 62. Photo of some of the above before refurbishment with blades, chipbreakers, handles , totes and a good fettling after 30 plus years of use.


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## BrandonW (Apr 27, 2010)

Bill, have you seen the Veritas jointer fence (here)? I made my own out of maple and rare earth magnets.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

'Nobody mentioned the wood jointers. That certainly is an option. Build one or buy one, either way its a great tool to use. Look through some of the ones I restored, some work really well. Some, I just haven't been back to fine tune.


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## dkirtley (Mar 11, 2010)

From a user standpoint, having all the bench planes in Stanley's #1-#8 sequence is overkill. They can be fun to acquire. The only one I missed was a #1. Good marketing on Stanley's part though. Let's make it look like a set to convince people to buy 11 planes when they can work comfortably with 3 and manage most work with one or two. (You do have the 4-1/2, 5-1/2, 5-1/4 too don't you? Then the H models, and the C models. Ohh, you do want the bedrock versions as well?) Collecting them is a great game in itself but is only tangentially related to woodworking.

Generally, you want 3 bench planes. A short one for smoothing, a long one for jointing, and a general purpose plane for most everything else. Which size you go for depends on the size of the work you do and the size of the user.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

I agree with David on every point except one. He said Generally, you want 3 bench planes." It should "read Generally, you need 3 bench planes. You actually want them *ALL*.


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## wingate_52 (May 14, 2011)

Mine are split between my home workshop and my bench at school.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

*Remember, a number 6 is only a short Chris Schwarz blog post away from being the best and most sought after plane in all the universe.*

I lol'd hard at this and Dr. Funk, you are now my brother. We could both give countless examples of planes we had on our under $50 short list; then all of a sudden, it hit the press. The #5, possibly the most versatile plane around, is too boring for a photo shoot, lol

I smell what Dr. Funk is cooking. If you've got a well tuned 6 that you're comfortable with; go for it. I learned to joint on a 7 before I owned a 6. I LOVE the 6 but I don't use it for jointing. For dimensioning, I like the 6 above the 5 for the size of the swath.


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## derosa (Aug 21, 2010)

I find anything under 24" long I get out the No5 to joint it, this may be due to the 5 being all I had for several months and getting used to it while never getting my No6 tuned to my liking. Anything longer I get out a 7 and wish I had an 8 and a real workbench to work with.


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## TCCcabinetmaker (Dec 14, 2011)

Lol, no one even mentions the english planes or thumb planes that I use quite often :X

Well if they do, they've mentioned them in some number reference that I don't understand since I don't have a store I can walk into that would have them all lined up fer teh reference points.


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## Tedstor (Mar 12, 2011)

Dumb question/comment: 
A router makes a great jointer. And a powered benchtop jointer can be had cheap. 
Of course, if you're doing the "handtool only" thing, these ideas are moot. 
But if you're on a budget, and just trying to joint the edge of some boards, power tools might actually be the best value option. Especially compared to most of the #7s on the market.

Now to address the original question. My #6 is my largest plane. I've used it as a jointer a few times with good success. I've never felt a need for a larger plane. of course, the longest board I ever used it on was about 32", so take my words with a grain of salt.


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## TCCcabinetmaker (Dec 14, 2011)

Tedstor, craftsman makes a jig set, that you attach to a stright board to run across your tablesaw that can also produce straight edges.

Sometimes however the length of the board can actually be the problem, I had to hand join a bunch of hickory because I didn't have a long enough straight enough board for the jig set, and well to be honest, 12' straight lumber from a box store can be tough to come by.


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## wingate_52 (May 14, 2011)

Brandon, have you got a photo of your jointer fence? How well does it stay attached to the side of the plane. I have used magnets in some of my jigs, and have had to make stops as they can slide in certain cicumstances. I am thinking of making a fence that would cover the whole side of the plane with a recess to take the plane side and stop slipping, or if you are careful, the fence stays tight?


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## canadianchips (Mar 12, 2010)

Good question. Answer is, it depends a lot on what the MAJORITY of wood you will be jointing. Do you need wider blade surface get the number 8, (2 5/8"). The number 7 blade width is 2 3/8". #7 is 22 inches long 8 1/8lbs, #8 is 24" long and 9 3/4 lbs. 
Also keep in mind, ANY PLANE will make the board flat and smooth, it is how it is "used" that gives the results. I have used a "block plane" to make the edges flat enough to glue together.


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## andrewr79 (Dec 17, 2011)

I'm a big fan of the #6, I've got wooden jointers longer than it but find I rarely need them unless I've started with really rough stock that needs to be flattened. A good #6 is no where near as pricey because they haven't got that mystical aura around them so grab it for $35.


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## paratrooper34 (Apr 27, 2010)

12strings, my two cents: I have an a 6, 7, and 8 metal bodied planes like most of the others here. I am not a big fan of the 6, it is a short jointer. The 7 is nice and the 8 is nice to do all that is required of a jointer plane. I saw a couple of complaints about the weight, but the weight is actually a benefit as it keeps the plane registered on the work. Now, having said that, I have a 28" massive beech jointer. This is my go-to jointer now. It is heavy, like the #8, and with a slight camber in the blade, I can quickly square edges on boards with no issues. Here is the best part about these old wood jointers: you can get them for pennies on the dollar. Not many woodworkers want an old wooden jointer and that brings the price of them down big time. I just sold a nice 26" for 75.00. They are really easy to find and will cost so much less than a metal bodied jointer. If I knew what I know now, I would have purchased a wood body jointer first and saved some money.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

If you have access to a value-priced #6, I'd say jump on it. Shorter stock, it'll be fine. After that, it's a matter of time though before you want a #8… Skip the 7… Or not


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