# Finger joints...why can't I do these?



## Starfury (Jul 1, 2015)

I"m in the process of building a small box. I have a porter cable dovetail/finger joint jig that I've used in the past with no problem but today…I can't get anything to work right. I've tried on scraps and the joints are shifted just enough that they won't line up; I've tried two different router collars and used the bit that came with the jig. I've messed up 3/4 of my box sides assuming that I was doing it right and need help. I barely have enough of the piece left to replace the messed up pieces.

Is the collar on the router supposed to fit snug in the jig? I'm pretty sure it is. I know it's the right bit because I only have 2 Porter-Cable bits and they came with the jig.

I'm not going to try to use the table saw method. I've tried more times than I want to think of and the joints never worked out right. They'd either be too tight/loose/shifted and my boxes looked like crud.

Any advice on what I'm doing wrong with the jig? My material is 3/4" oak and even testing on scraps of different wood things still don't work right.


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## Unknowncraftsman (Jun 23, 2013)

Is that collar thing you mention the kind that sticks down around the bit and has a ring that screws down holding it to the router?
If so then maybe you don't have it centered around the bit.
Just guessing here


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## Starfury (Jul 1, 2015)

It wasn't centered…but still not right. the pins/openings are not the same size. I'm done messing with it for the day.


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

If the bit is not centered in the collar and you don't orient the router the same each time, then the slots will all be at least 1/4", but some may be bigger due to the router and collar orientation.


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Afraid I am not much help….as all of mine are handcut…









Just a backsaw and a chisel…


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

> Afraid I am not much help….as all of mine are handcut…
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That must be hard on you hand. I would have though you'd use a maillot or something to strike the chisel with.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Pop corn time


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

https://wnwoodworkingschool.com/make-an-accurate-box-joint-jig-simple-fast/

HTH


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

> Pop corn time
> 
> - waho6o9


 Why?


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## johnstoneb (Jun 14, 2012)

There is a little bit of slop in the collar on the PC dovetail jig. You can adjust it out when cutting dovetails. but you can't get rid of it for box joints.
I just make a jig for my table saw or router table and cut them . It takes about 5 minutes to make a jig for the table saw or router table.
One of the early woodsmith magazines had a very simple one board jig. I have used that ever since they published it.

The above video is a good one. You don't need the sled. You can use a miter gauge and screw the jig to the miter gauge. It will make some very fine box joints and a lot quicker and tighter than the PC jig. I have the PC jig and only tried it once on box joints. It does make nice dovetails but not so nice box joints.

You can use the same jig on a router table with a miter gauge.


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## Gilley23 (May 9, 2017)

Easy to make jig:


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

Tom,

I've been frustrated by them too. Partly because I so rarely make them its a learning curve every time.

I bought the Incra jig same thing - every time I use it I have to get the manual out.

I would suggest you regroup, watch some videos, like William Ng. Yes, they all make it look easy, but I think the TS method is the best way to go because you can fine tune it.

If you're doing a lot of box joints, you might want to invest in the Incra Jig. Probably the cheapest thing Incra sells.


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## Starfury (Jul 1, 2015)

I don't do a lot of boxes at all…but I have some metal coins used for boardgames coming in and I wanted to make a box to store them in. I think I'm going to try the router table jig first since I haven't tried that and it may work…if that fails I'll try the TS jig again. I do remember from one video that the guy cut all 4 sides of the box at once on the TS jig and that may help.


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## Gilley23 (May 9, 2017)

Tom, did you watch the video that I posted above? Whatcha think? Can't get any easier than that.


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## Starfury (Jul 1, 2015)

I did and watch Steve's stuff and I've also seen the William Ng video. Both are basically the same type of jig I've tried in the past and it failed but I'll try again. Might have to find some free scrap wood just to try this again.


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## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

> https://wnwoodworkingschool.com/make-an-accurate-box-joint-jig-simple-fast/
> 
> HTH
> 
> - waho6o9


DITTO ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ :<))


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

I made a sled with 2 runners but only 4-5 long so it could be dedicated for a 3/8 box joint. I dialed it in and screwed the backer with the finger to it.


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## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

I've had "issues" with box joints, but I now know how to tune in a jig and get good results.
The one "best" thing I've done of late is buy a finger joint blade set. It eliminates one of the variables and is useful for far many more types of cuts. I haven't used my dado set in many months since the blade set gets me perfectly flat grooves.

I can do finger joints with my Incra fence on the router table. The fit is excellent, but I just can't justify the wear/tear on router bits when the TS does the job just as well.


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## Gilley23 (May 9, 2017)

Is a "Finger joint blade set" the same thing as a dado set without the shims?


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

> Is a "Finger joint blade set" the same thing as a dado set without the shims?
> 
> - Gilley23


I believe the main difference is the tooth grind on the set are flat ground so they don't leave bat ears on the work.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

I was frustrated with box joints at first. I tried the tablesaw jigs and got good fitting joints, but tearout too.
So I got the Leigh superjig with special aluminum finger joint template. It made finger joints alright, but the fit was inconsistent. Some fingers fit snug, some were too loose. No amount of centering or e bush adjusting would fix the problem.

I already had an Akeda jig, so I bought the special box joint cutter.
Wow, does that jig make nice box joints.
No tearout, and the fit is dead-on.

I hope you find a technique that works for you.


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## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

> Is a "Finger joint blade set" the same thing as a dado set without the shims?
> 
> - Gilley23


Almost. These are the two blade sets where depending on how you stack the blades, you get either a 1/4" or 3/8" slot.
Very clean, flat cuts unlike with a typical dado set.


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## Kirk650 (May 8, 2016)

For box joints/finger joints, I prefer the table saw method. I built a jig for the table saw, used it, trashed it. Built a second one, and it was better. The third one was like the porridge, being just right. I can set up and do the joints pretty quick now. And, I wrote instructions on the jig itself, to remind me to do this and that.

Another option, if you have the P-C 4211 or 4212 jig, download their supplemental section on doing dovetails and box joints with just the fingers section of the jig. Sort of like a Keller Jig. To me, that approach is much more repeatable and understandable than using the full jig. My P-C is limited to 12 inches, and I had a blanket chest to make that was 14 inches, so I had to set up the fingers using that supplemental section, which allows the joint to be of practically unlimited length and not fixed at 12 inches max. Now that I set up like that, and understand it, I'll never use the full jig again.

Kirk


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## ArtMann (Mar 1, 2016)

> That must be hard on you hand. I would have though you d use a maillot or something to strike the chisel with.
> - AlaskaGuy


Maillot definition: a close-fitting, one-piece bathing suit for women, simply styled and usually having a scoop neck and shoulder straps.


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Nah..I just use a mallet…..









Doesn't take all that long…








Just sitting at the bench for a while..








Maybe add a few grooves for the bottom and top to sit in….


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## Starfury (Jul 1, 2015)

I made the Steve Ramsey jig…and after playing around with the pin/board and making an insert for my saw….

they work. I actually got snug fitting joints with no gaps. I may want to upgrade my Dado blades…the ones I have are Harbor Freight and dont' leave a flat top on the openings.


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

If you abandon the jig u have just remember that an imprecise jig will yield imprecise results so no matter what you build , be meticulous.

But it seems to me that if you are almost there with a jig that worked in the past then tweaking it might be the way to go (since u know it worked before) as you are probably going to have to tweak whatever you build too.


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

I made this simple little jig in not much more that an hour. I used William NG's recommendation of making the pin 4 thousand of an inch under/narrower than width of my dado slot. Then I use some left over pin stock to set the distance between the blade and the pin. Perfect fit first time.

I have a leigh jig with a box joint template that makes perfect box joint that I usually use. I think I like this little jig better.


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## verdesardog (Apr 2, 2011)

I do all of my box joints on the table saw with a new jig for every set it seems…..it's not rocket science. The jigs are easy to make and are infinitely adaptable to any size fingers you desire.

Sample of a set I did for lips on shelves for a travel trailer.


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