# Squaring a Biesemeyer Fence



## ChunkyC (Jun 28, 2009)

Does anyone know how to square a Biesemeyer Fence to the table? I was doing some cleaning and inspecting this evening in the shop. One of the quick checks that I did was to put my square on the table and fence and to my surprise, the fence isn't quite perpendicular to the table. The fence is parallel to the miter slot just not square to the table.

Any thoughts?


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

You check the square of the fence by measuring from the miter groove with a combination square or a feeler gauge on each end of the fence. If it's out of square you can adjust the fence by turning screws on the bottom of the t part of the fence . You should be able to find a diagram on line of were the screws are.


----------



## ChunkyC (Jun 28, 2009)

bentlyj. No set screws to adjust the fence for square. I've seen other fences that have this adjustment, but my Biesemeyer fence doesn't have these adjustment screws.

a1jim I'm talking perpendicular to the table, not parallel to the miter gauge. If you hold you square against the table and vertical against the fence, this is the measurement that is off.

The only thing that I can think of is to loosen the entire rail along the front and adjust that, but that would be a very course adjustment IMHO.


----------



## blackcherry (Dec 7, 2007)

ChuckyC, now Bentlyj knows something here are you sure where to check. I've had been around plenty of Biesemeyer's and this is the only way to adjust. Take the fence off the rail and flip it over on the bottom side that rides toward the table top look closely because the factory paint job will fill the allen fitting w/paint making it hard to see, inspect closely and you should find the fittings. You should find one on each side of the locking knob. Toe in and toe out…I hope this helps…Blkcherry


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

If you fence is not square to the top of you table then you do need to adjust the rail.


----------



## ChunkyC (Jun 28, 2009)

"Toe in and toe out" NO! I'm talking square to table / vertical / perpendicular. Think "plumb."

"If you fence is not square to the top of you table then you do need to adjust the rail." Ugg! The problem with that is that you have to take the fence rail off in order to loosen the screws that hold the angle iron piece to the front of the table. That's a lot of off an on of the rail to get adjusted.

Do you think that the plastic slider piece could be sanded to adjust the angle? I wonder why there isn't any adjustment for square??


----------



## jschnell1203 (Oct 17, 2009)

My Vega Fence has a wooden top on it whiich I took off and it screws inside. Also I have a alignment system that rides in the miter slot for both fence alignment and blade alignment. Boy I'm glad I checked it too when I first bought it which was off by 1/4 inch which could have caused a kickback besides bad cuts. Also check this often and if you get a jam, kickback or in my case drop the fence.


----------



## ChunkyC (Jun 28, 2009)

I apologize if I'm not communicating this issue very well. If you think anything to do with the miter slot, then you've not got the jest of the problem.

*This is what I mean when I say "square."*









The picture doesn't show it but the fence falls away from the square about 1/64". Normally this wouldn't be a huge deal but I'm working on a deal for some rough cut lumber that I'll need to do a little re-sawing to. That 1/64" will start to add up in a hurry.


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

try sanding or padding one of the plastic sliders on the bottom of the square ,
they seem to be pressed into 2 holes , maybe you can put a slight shim under one of them ?


----------



## jussdandy (Aug 14, 2009)

I sold a saw a while back and my biesimeyer fence went with it, so Im going by wore out memory, dosnt it have some plastic type wear pad underneath that runs on top to make it run smooth, Im pretty sure it should have 4 of these pads. [2 for in and out and 2 for running back and forth} so check to make sure that your not missing a pad out ones not wore more than the other, theese pads would affect your problem. if Im not making sence I apolgize, my wife had a massive heart attack almost two weeks ago so Im pretty freid from being at hospital so much.


----------



## ChunkyC (Jun 28, 2009)

Sorry to hear about your wife Randy.

Your memory is correct. There are a total of 4 pads. Two that have an adjustment for parallel (toe in and toe out) and two that ride on the top of the fence rail, no readily apparent adjustment.

Not missing any pads and the fence is brand new so they shouldn't be worn.


----------



## oldworld124 (Mar 2, 2008)

Loosening the rail and moving it up or down is the normal way to adjust for plumb. It is usually not very difficult. You can use a piece of wood from the floor and a couple of shims to set the rail to plumb. Then tighten and you're there.


----------



## DDB (Mar 25, 2009)

Chunk, call Biesimeyer and ask to speak with a tech specialist. He or she will tell you exactly what to do.

Don


----------



## blackcherry (Dec 7, 2007)

Sorry for the misunderstanding ChunkC…J Ormsby has the answer to adjusting the rails. He's dead on to the solution….Blkcherry


----------



## ChunkyC (Jun 28, 2009)

"You may want to put some shims in between the angle iron and the square tubing and leave the rails that are attached to the table saw alone."

I think shimming is the answer but just not sure where one would shim. Taking the rail off to adjust the rail frame is not a precise operation. There is absolutely no way of getting the bolts that bolt the rail frame to the table without first completely removing the fence, and fence rail. I'm thinking that maybe adding a shim or two under the fence rail and the fence rail frame might be the answer.

A Biesemeyer fence has three main components; (1) The fence, (2) The fence rail - this is the part the fence slides on and (3) The fence rail frame. The fence rail frame is a piece of angle iron that bolts to the front of the saw's table and the fence rail then bolts to this.

The only vertical adjustment that I can see is from the fence rail frame but once the fence rail is bolted to the fence rail frame, the bolts are blocked and they can't be accessed. And the fence rail is bolted from the under side so there isn't any vertical adjustment there. So I can't see how adjusting the fence rail frame would work. I suppose you could get lucky.


----------



## ElChe (Sep 28, 2014)

I am bumping this old thread. Did you figure out an elegant solution? I shimmed with some uhmw tape but I'm wondering if anyone has a better solution? I have a love hate relationship with my fence. The.


----------



## runswithscissors (Nov 8, 2012)

I'm not familiar with the Beisemyer fence system, but if adjusting the rail would solve your problem, there should be a way to do it. First unbolt the rail frame from the saw, then re drill the bolt holes oversize. Reinstall without tightening those bolts all the way. Tap on the ends to move up or down as needed, then tighten the bolts. You'd need to watch that nothing moves when cinching them down. The holes toward the ends would need to be enlarged more than the ones toward the center.

I realize this is an ancient thread, but maybe someone can get some use out of it.


----------



## unbob (Mar 10, 2013)

The manual is here,
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/2709/4402.pdf

Pretty much, the angle rail needs to be installed level with the table top first, a combo square set for depth off the edge of the table works good.
Then the tube is installed. They suggest using tape to adjust the final tube height and angle to the cursor.


----------



## Humidor (Nov 26, 2014)

Thanks for the help. I found the the adjustment set screws hidden under the paint!


----------

