# So VERY Thankful no one was hurt!!



## vikingcape

Miss Candy, did you guys have the speed at full when using this cutter? With bigger cutters you don't want a fast speed on the drill press. If I'm saying something you know, please ignore it. Happy you weren't hurt


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## TheOldTimer

The swede is correct, this cutter needs to operated at a very low speed. Is your drill press equipped with speed adjustments? So glad you guys were not injured. I operate mine at 550 RPM. I also prefer the single cutter as it is very hard to adjust the dwell cutters for accuracy.


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## CFrye

Kaleb and Old Timer, thank you both for the speed info. There were no instructions on the packaging about what speed to operate the tool.


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## Deycart

In addition to what was already said. That type of cutter is for cutting very thin material. I wouldn't try to cut anything thicker than 1/4"!


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## CFrye

More information *NOT* included with the tool. Thanks Deycart.


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## bobasaurus

These circle cutters have always looked very sketchy to me. Good thing nobody got hurt.


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## JoeLyddon

*CFrye*

Yep… *SLOW SPEED* for sure…

... and, once you have it rotating, *DO NOT FORGET where that thing is going!*
... it;s very easy *for a hand to get closer & closer & the next thing you know, you're getting some busted knuckles!*

If the cutting edge is kept sharp, it does a nice job at cutting a nice Circle.

Glad no one was hurt… that can be a SCARY moment when something like that happens.

*Take care…*


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## shelly_b

I got one of these at menards. Stuck it in the drill press and turned it on…then turned it right back off after it got up to speed. Made me too nervous…and I don't always stop when I think "this isn't a good idea". Glad he didn't get hurt! Mine also came with no instructions.


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## CFrye

Allen, it sounds like a good idea. 
Joe, when I set it up I got that kind of a vision in my head-only mine included much worse than busted knuckles!
Shelly, I think we are in the same mind set. Gotta listen to that little voice. 
Thank you all for your good thoughts.


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## Magnum

I have one of these. Only Complaint is it will Sometimes Smoke like crazy when using it. I have no Hesitation to use it if the Job calls for what this will do.

These thing are like a lot of tools. There's Hole Cutters and there's Hole Cutters. I've seen them priced anywhere between $10.95 and $33.00 Bucks. Which is what mine cost at Lee Valley (Below). Same Old Story …... You get what you Pay for.

The fact that Yours had NO Operating Instructions would have turned me off right away.

Cutting Speed? 500 to 550 RPM MAX!!!

Having said all that. I went out and bought a Set of Larger Hole Saws. Much Better!!! The Hole Cutter is still used for various Tasks that the Hole Saws aren't designed for.

Glad No one was hurt also!!

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We don't have Harbor Freight In Canada. I wanted to see what this thing was all about. Google Naturally.

Is this the one you bought at $5.99?


> I'm trying to figure out what that piece on the Far Left is for


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## CalgaryGeoff

That was a close call, good to know you are both injury free. Drill bits, cutters and router bits all have suggested rpm ranges for their size. Bigger the cut slower the speed. And of course always listen to the little voice in your head or gut feel when using tools, it seems to know when it's time to STOP and take a break. Thanks for posting your experience, we can all learn from it. I use a full face shield cause I got tired of getting hit by small stuff that seems to fly off occasionally.


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## terryR

Wow, glad no one was hurt! To me, that looks like a dangerous tool…cannot believe it didn't ship with red warning labels all over it.

Candy, next time that you want wheels or circles, please PM me and I'll turn a bunch on the lathe; Forstner bit for the center hole.


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## BryanatWoodstock

I have had one for years, always on the lowest speed . With anything on a drill press, larger = slower speed. Mine looks to be different in the locking mechanism. The allen screws bite into the cross bar from the top. Yours looks to be a clamping action.


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## mojapitt

Two things, the pressure on the tool on these types of cutters is extreme. Slower speeds and taking small cuts at a time is the safest.

Second, there is a good and bad time for cheaper tools. Often times we buyless expensive tools without thinking about thier usage. If it's something that safety could be an issue or will be heavily used, we need to grit our teeth and buy the best we can afford.

I am exceptionally glad no one was hurt. Unfortunately with tools, whether you buy the most or least expensive, there is a risk of tool failure and injury.


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## theoldfart

Candy, glad you and yours are OK. Scary moment.


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## CFrye

Rick, yes, that is the one. The package states: 
"Cutter includes:
Plain brad point drill bit
4mm hex key wrench
1-1/4" drill bit
2 cutting blades" 
Which still does not say what it is for. To be clear, there were 'instructions'. They just did not include operating speed or thickness of material it is intended to be used on.
Geoff, what brand face mask do you have? The local borg only had some that were not even safety rated up to the eye protection I use. It might keep dust out of my face!
Terry, Yeah, I'm kind of wondering about the lack of pertinent warnings. We have forstner bits. I just hated to waste all that wood that could be used as wheels or whatever. The hole saw(for door knobs?) worked really well. Thanks for the offer buddy.
Bryant, yes, on the clamping action.
Monte, true. ANY tool can fail. Just a thought here, I know it never occurred to Jim or me that the set screw being tight as possible could have been hitting a burr or some other obstruction and not the crossarm as intended. 
Other than an auto-response I have not heard back from Harbor Freight.
Thank you all, again, for your thoughts and concern.


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## CFrye

Thanks Kevin.


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## MT_Stringer

I am glad to hear no one was hurt. That red stuff on the cutter could easily have been something else. I have one of those hole cutters and have used it several times to cut holes in 1/2 inch plywood. I run the drill press at it's lowest speed (550 rpm) and cut slowly. I also make sure the work piece is secureky clamped to the drill press table.

That cutter is veruy intimidating for sure. The only reason I bought it is beause I couldn't find a hole saw the size I needed when making holes for blast gates for my dust collection system.

Good luck and be careful.


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## NormG

It is nice to gain information previously needed in a way that is safe

Glad to hear all are well


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## CalgaryGeoff

Here's the details on the mask I use, it's from LeeValley and works well for me.










This keeps my GQ looks safe.


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## Bogeyguy

I have the same unit. Never used it in a DP or a hand held electric drill. I use it strictly for cutting circles in drywall for fixtures/electrical boxes. Turn it by hand.


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## joebob1611

I have the one pictures in the first pic above. Got it from Sears, I believe. Scares the stuffing out of me every time I use it. I have to cut holes in balsa and thin ply for my RC models that need to be precise in sizes that aren't standard. This was the only solution that would work. My big problem is holding the workpiece, which is usually pretty small, and not getting fingers in the way. I try to use makeshift clamps when possible, but it's not always easy. Rapped my knuckles more than once with the spinning bar!

The cutter does work, but it produces a slight taper on thicker wood, even with the cutter set to cut holes.


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## MT_Stringer

"My big problem is holding the workpiece, which is usually pretty small, and not getting fingers in the way. I try to use makeshift clamps when possible, but it's not always easy. Rapped my knuckles more than once with the spinning bar!"

@Joe - maybe you need a drill press table similar to the one I made so you can clamp your parts in place.

Mike


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## Jim Jakosh

Hi Candy. I have a couple of them that I made and I Use them quite often when I am making a certain size hole for which I have no exact cutter. here they are:

http://i887.photobucket.com/albums/ac71/JimJakosh/DSCN3039_zps18259e71.jpg!

!









I grind the cutters out of 3/16" metal lathe tool bits. Depending on the angle of the point, you can cut a hole to a dimension or cut a circle plug to a certain dimension. 
I always prefer a single cutter for ease of setting the size and it works just fine. In both of these pictured, the pointed bit is straight on the outside and tapered on the inside , this will cut a hole to size. If it was straight on the inside and tapered on the outside, it will cut the plug to size.

I use my drill press at 730 rpm- the slowest it will go. I always use a foot switch with the drill press to keep both hands free and for quick shut off in case of a bind. It is a good idea to clamp the work tight to the table because if it wanders just bit off center, it can bind. Also,you don't want to be holding a piece any where near that spinning cutter or in line with it for that matter.

Mine don't have a drill in the end but the pilot is a free spinning piece of steel that goes into a 3/8" pilot hole that I pre drill

To keep the holder from ever flying off like yours did. I have one with a pocked milled in the square arm where the lock screw rides and this pocket is closed on the outer end so if the screw ever came loose, it would just slide to the end of the arm and be caught there. the other one has a set screw on the end of the arm to prevent fly off .The one you have is just a flat on a round shank, and if the clamping is not tight, it will slide off the end and fly like a bullet. You can fix that by drilling a hole near the end of that shaft and driving in a small roll pin. I would also suggest cutting that slot wider where the screw goes though to do the clamping so it can have more space for the screw to pull it tight. You can do that with a Dremel with a cutoff wheel

Also that cutter point on your bit is not ground right. It should never be a v shape with the point in the middle. That will make it cut rough on both side of center and have a lot of resistance. The point should be all the way to the inside or all the way to the outside and be very slim to be able to go deep without a lot of resistance. I can drilll stock 1 1/2" thick by drilling a 3/8" hole through and then coming in from both sides. The cutting flute is just over 3/4" long. Notice the shape on the one Rick posted- straight on the inside or outside.

I think with a little work, that tool can be very save and functional. I find I have to tweak a lot of HF tools to make them work properly or at all. the basic parts are there to begin with but leave much to be desired. I wished you lived closer so I could make all the changes for you and show you how it can work….......................................................Jim


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## wormil

I have one and crank the set screw tight, and as has been said a hundred times I use it on the slowest speed. It works perfectly well but is the scariest tool in my shop. Good idea to clamp whatever is being cut, don't try to hold it by hand. I've cut through 3/4" material without problem.


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## oldnovice

I don't know the brand name on my circle cutter as it is VERY old but the arm and cutter can come loose but CANNOT come out as they are both stopped with machined in stops.

If the arm set screw is not tightened it can move out to the maximum diameter and hits a machined stop. The cutter can drop down but not out for the same reason.

These cutters are probably the most dangerous tool in a workshop since never if everything is set properly the operator can always get in the way!


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## b2rtch

I have used this very same cutter many times during the past few years for cutting anything from aluminum siding,sheet metal, sheet-rock, plastic and plywood. 
It always worked well for me. 
I just make sure that everything is very tight and that the rotation is slow.

I do not mean to insult anyone but before using a tool , it is good to know how to use it and to use common sense. 
Most tool do not come with instruction or good instruction
If you are not sure ask, this is why you have Lumberjocks for.
Together we have several thousands years of experience with all kind of tools.
Of course one (like me) can still make a mistake.
I am very glad no one was hurt.


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## Tennessee

Had one of these, years ago. Always tried to run it in a variable speed drill, not a drill press. Still came loose. Tossed it. Not a good design by any manufacturer, as far as I am concerned.


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## b2rtch

In general if you are afraid of tool or unfamiliar with it, do not use it.
Better to ask than to be sorry.

By the way this is not a review, this an accident report.
I personally believe that when properly used this tool works correctly and is safe .


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## helluvawreck

I personally wood never trust one of those tools. To me it is a wild and unbalanced way to cut holes. Vibrations can loosen clamp screws and then centrifical force can take over. Then it can be like playing 360 degree Russian roulette with your head or face as the possible target.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


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## OhioMike

Glad you weren't hurt.

It was a circle cutter just like yours that caused me to upgrade my benchtop drill press to a floor standing one. (I'll admit that I was looking for an excuse!)

I was running the benchtop unit at its slowest speed (about 600 rpm) and still the circle cutter made me very nervous. On my new floor standing drill press, I run the circle cutter at 150 rpm and it works great.

So use this as an opportunity to buy a new tool! ;-)

Mike


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## wormil

This one actually has 2 cutters so it runs balanced. First time I fired it up I wore glasses, a face mask, a heavy jacket and was half expecting to get whacked by a flying cutter but it was okay. Still scares me more than a tablesaw.

BTW, the easiest way to set the 2nd cutter is set the 1st one, score the wood turning it by hand, then set the 2nd cutter in the groove and tighten.


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## oldnovice

*+1 Rick, scarier than a TS by a long shot even when used safely!*


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## bowedcurly

I hate those dam things I bought one 6 months ago and finally used it about a month ago. scared the hell outta me, clamp the wood down and wear bullet proof vest I was thinking only goin to use as a last minute half to tool, it may be a pile of rust before it gets chucked again, glad ebody is OK


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## a1Jim

These fly cutters can do the job that some tools like whole saws can't or at least not for the same money , the fact this was made by HF makes this fly cutter seam like an accident waiting to happen. I purchased the ones I have at garages sales and they are quality tools similar to the photo Jim has. Just like router bits you have to follow certain steps when your going to use these tools most of them have been listed above.What I alwas tell my students if you have a bad feeling about any tool or operation either get help or just don't do it, just like Shelly did. I'm really glade no one was hurt.


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## wormil

Couple more tips, the cutters are reversible so you can cut holes or circles and you can remove the center drill bit and cut a circle with no pilot hole.


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## CFrye

Mike and Norm, thank you for your input and concern. Great DP table Mike!
Geoff, thanks for the face shield info.
Bogeyguy, I think I could handle it by hand for drywall.
Joe, I understand trying to do with limited tools. Do you have a router you could make a circle cutting jig for?
Jim, you make me smile! I am not surprised you have made this tool and made it with all the safety features built in. I appreciate all the modification tips.
RickM and OldNovice, agreed-scariest and dangerous.
Bert, no offence taken. We did follow all the instructions that were included with the tool. Just did not know we weren't using it properly(at the correct speed) due to the lack of pertinent information in the instructions. I stopped using it when I became uncomfortable with it. My husband is more experienced at woodworking than I and was still ignorant of the drill speed issue (obviously). We are ALL learning every day. I agree, this is an accident report that points out serious short comings in the tool and its instructions. I do believe it can be made into a safer tool. 
Paul, hope no injuries happened in connection with your missile launch! I'm too much of a hoarder, uh I mean recycler to throw it out. ;-)
Mike, we are eyeing a used floor model DP (totally unrelated to this incident). Maybe it will still be available after Christmas…
bowedcurly, I'm thinking those cutters would make nice marking knives. Don't let them go to waste!
a1Jim, I had read a lot about Harbor Freight here on LJ's before I ever went to the store. Fortunately, we can learn from our lessons even when they don't hit us up side the head!
RickM, Thanks for the extra tips!
Thank you all for your input and your concern. Lumberjocks are the best!!
Edit: Didn't mean to leave you out akaCharles, 'loosening with vibrations' goes for everything in the shop. Gotta tighten up all the nuts and bolts regularly!


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## b2rtch

"Do you have a router you could make a circle cutting jig for?" 
Yes. A while ago I had a bunch of 18" holes to cut in plywood to install speakers in and I made my own circle cutter jig. It worked very well.
If you want,I shall post pictures later.
Candy,may God bless you too.


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## woodenwarrior

Mine scares the hell out of me when I use it. Even at 500 rpm I have had visions of it spinning off and puncturing my chest. Don't giggle, but I wear my body armor when I use this thing. If it will stop a bullet it will stop a circle cutter.


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## b2rtch

Candy, here are pictures of the jig I made.



























I install a bushing (available at HF) in my router plate and as I cut the circle the router just rest in the jig and rotate 
(the advantage is that I keep my hands on the router at all time and the movement is very smooth)










I have a small pin ( spring or mechanical roll pin) for center

I have a piece of this white Teflon stuff the make the movement very smooth , I glued it with instant glue also from HF
I can turn the "adjustment bar" around to cut small or large diameter circles
The jig works very well.


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## CFrye

Great looking jig Bert! MDF on the top? I know I've seen that teflon stuff before just can't remember where. Would High Density Polyethylene be suitable for an application like this? 
WoodenWarrior, no laughing here! Sounds like a sensible precaution to me.


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## b2rtch

Yes, MDF.
Jigs is the only thing I use MDF for, I "hate" to work with this material
Anything which hard and slippery would do for the sole.
I know of people who used kitchen cutting boards


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## terryR

Thanks, Bert, that was my next question! 

I have been "given" two old cutting boards to dispose of…knew they were good for something in the shop, I did.


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## CFrye

Exactly what I was thinking Bert. There is a big poly cutting board in the kitchen that never gets used that I have been eyeing for a while…;-) miter bars, etc…


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## b2rtch

I get mine at work, I do not steal , it is refuse.
The one I used is 1/4", we also have 1/8" and 1/2".
In addition I got 4"'x 4" x 72" bars of this stuff, these bars are about useless to me.


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## CFrye

Could the bars be cut down and used for miter bars Bert? or other jig parts? How easy/difficult is it to cut?


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## b2rtch

The bars are easy to machine but do not cut down easily, I tried several times.
When they are cut, as there is not "fiber" in this material, they do not make chips but long long long spaghettis, which filled my table saw and went all around the shaft , belts and other things, that was a real mess.It took me several hours to clean the all thing
In addition after I cut two of them to put on my table saw guide,very strangely they never stayed straight or flat, they twisted all the time, just as wood would have done.


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## CFrye

Oh man, sounds awful!


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## Schummie

Dear Candy,

I'm VERY happy to hear that no one was hurt and thank you for the warning.
This is something what everyone off us can happen, maybe not with this tool,
but it happens by all off us, there are days when we think "I hat a Angel on my shoulder today" 
Let we learn form the (almost) accidents from someone else

Happy woodworking.


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## CFrye

Thank you for your comments and positive attitude Schummie! Always thankful for the angel on my shoulder.


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## Grumpymike

I have one of these and have been using it for years (since 1988) ... I put a piece of doubled over tape on it about 2 inchs longer than the horizontal shaft as a reminder that I'm too close.
I have cut hundreds of wheels for toys out of 1/2 and 3/4 material … no one ever told me that they are only for thin stock. Oh well, I use a hole saw now, easier and a bit faster.
So glad that no one was hurt … I have a similar mark on my old band saw from a router bit not installed in the collet correctly.


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## CFrye

Good idea on the tape flap Mike! Glad the band saws are taking one for 'The Team' so to speak!


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## patcollins

My dad use to have a much less nice version of one of these hole cutters in his tool box in the early 80's and at the time it looked to be every bit of 20 years old. What was especially crude about this one is that it used a nail as the cutter.


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## LepelstatCrafts

I've been using one of these for years and I've even used it on red oak. As others have mentioned before, speed is the key. My rule of thumb is the harder the wood the slower the speed. Also make sure that you really crank down on the set screw and clamp the work piece well. I haven't ever had it throw the bit. One last thing to check. The blade is designed to be inserted all the way up and isn't supposed to be in line with the drill bit point.


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## Kentuk55

1st, I am glad nobody was hurt also. 2ndly, another wake-up call for us all to be as careful as we can be. There can always be a possible "whoops", or "oh-*&^%%&" in the shop, and/or anywhere. Again, glad nobody was hurt.


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## CFrye

Pat, whatever Dad can make work!
Mike, thanks for the additional info.
Roger, thanks for your concern my friend. Wake up calls with out associated injuries are always welcome!


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## woodbutcherbynight

I agree with Monte, I often try new tools but try a cheaper version see if they have potential and how scary they really work in person. Instructions on such tools tend to be non existent so some research is required. My self I have used on of these and as suggested at a a slow speed. They work, results were good but admit I was leery of the blade coming at me.


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## CFrye

Woodbutcher, thanks for the input. Been looking at the tool handles you've turned-very impressive. Thanks for your service Gunny.


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## JoeLyddon

*CFrye*

A Circle jig for the Router Table is really very simple…

Take a piece of 1/2" ply say 12×12… large enough so it can be clamped to the table with one edge close to the Router Bit.

Figuring the circle (outside) is very close to the edge of the ply, drill a hole at the Radius.

Workpiece is at least big enough for the circle you want to cut… cut a partial hole in it at the desired Radius point.
Put the workpiece on top of the Ply with a Nail or something in the Ply hole and the Workpiece hole… the workpiece should be able to be turned in a circular motion without any problems.

Clamp the Ply (carrier) to the Router Table so that the bit aligns with the desired circle edge.

Turn router on… and slowly turn the workpiece (in a circle) into the router bit… turn all the way around resulting in a circle…

If you don't want a hole in the workpiece, use some double faced carpet tape to attach another carrier to the workpiece and drill the hole into the carrier piece instead on the workpiece…

OR

You could take any board and clamp it across the router table where the Circle Center (is on the board in relation to the bit) and use it to control the circle cutting.

The bit being a good ole Straight Bit…

It's really quite simple…

You could cutout a rough circle with a jig saw, etc. and then use the Router table jig to cleanup the circle.

OK?


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## CFrye

I think I understand Joe. Cuting holes (~2" diameter) was the purpose I had intended when I chucked up this tool. 20+ of them in a 1×6 x 4' piece of pine. Hubby had the router tied up on another project at the time. It makes me giggle thinking about swinging that 4' long hunk of pine around on the router table like you described in the first suggestion. heeheehee Thanks for the input.


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## JoeLyddon

*Another way is to make a Template for use with a Flush Trim bit…*

Use a 1/4" Flushtrim bit (the bearing is at the top end of the Bit)

Take a piece of 1/4" hardboard (6" x 6") or MDF and *cut a 2" Hole in the middle of it.*

*Draw the circle, drill hole, use jig saw, etc. to cut it out… File & sand to get a nice clean 2" circle the way you want it.*

Layout your 1×6x48 workpiece using a compass *drawing all of the holes you want to cut.*

On the drill press, use a 3/8" bit and *drill a hole in each circle* to be cut; *NOT ON THE LINE, but in about 1/8" from the line.*

Have your bit set in the router table with the HT set for the bearing to ride on your Template on top of your workpiece.. Set it so the Bearing is about 1/16" away from the workpiece… Bearing Positively ON the Template.

Using carpet tape (all around the circle) on the Template, lineup the Template on a Circle Line and push down to make it stick good.

*With the router turned off:*

*1.* Move workpiece so the Bit is through the hole of the circle being cut… make sure it's NOT against the wood.

*2. * Turn on router and just move the 1×6x48 around in a small 2" circle *following the template*. Move the workpiece to cut the *shortest distance to the Template then follow the template counter-clockwise making the circle cut.*

*3.* When you're getting close to the end point when the center circle that was cut is going to be loose, take a small stick and move it away from the bit as it cuts loose.

*4.* Turn OFF the router, remove waste & vacuum, turn router ON again and make a few passes around the circle to be sure it's nicely cut all the way around and turn router OFF. (vac chips before making final passes)

*5.* Remove the Template.

*6. * Go to step 1 for another circle until done.

*I'm guessing that you want a bunch of 2" holes in that 1×6x48! LOL*

*BE SAFE!*

I think this is the easiest way to do it… BUT, you have to make a Template with a 2" hole in it FIRST…
... You could use the first method, described earlier, to cut the template. LOL


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## CFrye

More than one way to skin a cat, eh Joe?!
Thanks buddy.


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## rance

Glad you all weren't hurt Candy. I've used one a few times. It never gave a good hole though.


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## CFrye

Thanks Rance.


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## JoeLyddon

Oh, I think the easiest way to cut that 2" hole is with a Hole Saw cutter for the drill press… A fully formed circle of metal, with teeth, with bit in middle for drill press… literally cute a fixed diameter hole that you have selected to cut.

Harbor Frt. has them… They work… Would be faster than even using the Router! LOL
... but, you could use it to make the Template, if you wanted. LOL


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## CFrye

That is what I ended up using Joe and a roundover bit in the compact router for all the edges. Thanks again.


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## CFrye

Here is the response I received from HF last week:

Dear Mr. Frye,

We have forwarded this to the appropriate desk. We are asking that we post the information you suggest.

Thank you,
Karin
805-388-1000 ext. 7528
Corporate Customer Service
HARBOR FREIGHT TOOLS 
Quality Tools at Ridiculously Low Prices

This e-mail, its content and any files transmitted with it are intended solely for the addressee(s) and are PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL. Access by any other party is unauthorized without the express prior written permission of Harbor Freight Tools. If you have received this e-mail in error you may not copy, disclose to any third party or use the contents, attachments or information in any way. Please delete all copies of the e-mail and the attachment(s), if any and notify the sender.

From: CL Frye [mailto:[email protected]] 
Sent: Saturday, November 30, 2013 8:29 PM
To: Customer Service
Subject: Carbide Tip Adjustable Circle Cutter item #69063

Here is a link to the review I posted on Lumberjocks.com regarding this item. 
http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/3636#comment-1726972
As you can see from the responses there is some VITAL information and instructions lacking with the packaging of this tool. I thank God we were uninjured in this incident. Please add the operating speed and the fact that this should only be used on thin material to your packaging.
Thank you for your consideration,
C. Frye


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## woodchuckerNJ

I have one of these and it has been great.
I run it slow, I took it apart before use, chased the threads and everything is as it should be.

It works better than expected. I turn one cutter in and one out (same radii, but cutting the inside and outside of that radii) , and it cuts better, and faster with less work.


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