# Craftsman Table saw Model 113.27520(1952)



## woodworker1972 (Jan 7, 2010)

I am looking for the extions for the rack and pinion fence. The fence is good and solid. I want to build a saw station for this saw with wing extentions and outfeed table. I would like to be able to heep original fence, but will need the extentions that the fence rides on. Like I said its a rack and pinion style. This saw was made by emerson co. and was one of the better 10 inch saw made for sears and roebuck. Mine has a 1 hp motor on it. I am restoring this old saw and will post before and after pics when done. Any info or help would be greatly appreciated.


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## scrappy (Jan 3, 2009)

Would also like to know. Just picked up one of these yestaerday. Had a bit of surface rust but otherwize in great shape. Also need to build a stand with wings and outfeed for it. Oh, and I need the original rip fence. Mine has a different one on it, but still has the rack for the original.


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## woodworker1972 (Jan 7, 2010)

I have been looking through the internet for a few hours now and have not come up with anything yet. So I am hoping somebody out there knows where I can find these parts. I hate to lose the original fence when it works so well.


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## woodpicker (Jan 8, 2010)

Hey guys just what the doctor ordered take a look at pictures of my latest rebuild i don't need fence or rails anymore tell me what there worth.

http://i923.photobucket.com/albums/ad76/ifinish/1230091637.jpg
http://i923.photobucket.com/albums/ad76/ifinish/new.jpg
http://i923.photobucket.com/albums/ad76/ifinish/new2.jpg
http://i923.photobucket.com/albums/ad76/ifinish/oldf.jpg


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## woodworker1972 (Jan 7, 2010)

Well the fence rails are what I need. How long do they make up put together? How much do you want for them? Guess I could take the fence for spare parts. I want to build a station similiar to yours that is why I wanted the extra rails, however I do not know how long they are all together. May not be long enough after all. I don't know. Let me know, thanks


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## woodpicker (Jan 8, 2010)

42"


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## woodworker1972 (Jan 7, 2010)

Ok, thanks. I was hoping they would be a little longer. I will probably go ahead and build a bisiesmeyer clone.
Here are some pics of the saw I picked up. I tore it down tonight and have started on cleaning up the table.
Will post future pics and the finished product with saw station when I get it completed.
Well I guess no pics, I cant figure out how to post them right now.


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## mgb_2x (Dec 30, 2009)

http://www.owwm.com/
this is a great site for old woodworking machines, might be a good place ot start


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## woodworker1972 (Jan 7, 2010)

Thanks, I have been all over that site. I have sent them two emails one of which was another question and they still have not answered me. I am also looking for the front panel. Mine was badly pitted. I tried numerous tricks that I had learned over the years in black powder restoration and other things. But no matter what I tried, it either would not clean it up or it wanted to remove the swirl marks that were on there from the factory. I have looked on ebay. The only thing I can see is to find a whole saw for parts. They had one on ebay, nut the guy wanted three times what I paid for this one and appeared to be in about the same shape.
I have tried three different things to put the swirl marks back in, but have been unsuccessful. I was not able to find anything online either. I could just buff and polish the front panel out to a mirror finish, but that would not be original. I f anybody has any info on this that would be great. Or if you have an extra front pane that fits a 113.27520 or know someone who does that would be great too. Thanks


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## noahbehrens (Mar 16, 2010)

woodworker1972, 
ii actually stumbled upon this part when searching for rack extensions for the same saw
http://www.restoredwoodshop.info/parts-for-sale.php?mfr_id=2

woodpicker, 
are the aluminum rail extensions still for sale?


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## Obernelson (Sep 17, 2009)

woodpicker, thanks for the idea for a replacement fence for the old Craftsman


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## cleanout (Sep 5, 2010)

I have one of these tablesaws from my uncle. is anyone interested in it?


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## BandAide (Aug 7, 2014)

I am in the process of restoring a 1951 Craftsman 113.27520.

I'm not trying to make it original because there are so many 113 saws on the ground that almost every house has one.

My aim is to have a great saw for a cheap price, so I'm rebuilding my grandfather's saw.

I cleaned and replaced bearings on the arbor and wire buffed the acme screws, palm sanded the ways with scotch bright and WD-40, Stripped and gave the case an electrolytic bath with my battery charger and HTH PH plus, Cleaned the aluminum, and clear-coated. and painted the case a Craftsman blue.

To turn Ferrous oxide(Hard red rust) into Ferric oxide (Soft brown rust) 1) get a large plastic container,
2) Get HTH PH plus or Arm and Hammer Landry Detergent (Sodium Carbonate), 3) Add 1 teaspoon per gallon of water, 4) Connect negative battery charger cable to the parts you want to clean. 5) connect positive cable to the junk in the water pail. Don't let the positive and negative touch, separate them with anything non conductive, lumber bricks EXC.

For a cleaning in 8 hours, use a 30 to 40 amp charger.

It is only safe to put your hand in the water when the charger is off.

If you do it when it is on, you will know it.

The rust will wipe off easily after an electrolysis bath.

The larger the anode (Junk piece connected to the plus wire, the better, stainless works best.)

Don't use the old lady's new pot, I learned that the hard way.

I Palm sanded the table until I could see tool marks through the rust, then I got out the steel scrubbing pads and the gun oil to clean the top.

I bought the bearings and the cast iron wings on Ebay, as well as the Delta T2 fence i,m going to add to the saw, A delta T2 fence is just like a Beismeyer fence, But about 1/3 the cost.

I am also adding an Incra 1000 SE Miter fence.

For less than 500 bucks I'll have a Very close to cabinet quality saw.


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## toolie (Mar 16, 2011)

Careful with that last comment, band aide. The "ya gotta have a 3 hp "old arn" 52" biesmeyer equipped cabinet saw" to do any serious woodworking crowd might not appreciate it.


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## BandAide (Aug 7, 2014)

I may not be able to cut really dense wood like maple ore oak with the precision of a cabinet saw,
But I bet it will do better than a new saw from a big box store.


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## BandAide (Aug 7, 2014)

The Biggest problem to overcome with the old Craftsman saws it how to fine tune the trunnion adjustment parallel to the miter slot within .003 inches, anybody have suggestions on how to get this kind of accuracy?


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## toolie (Mar 16, 2011)

*anybody have suggestions on how to get this kind of accuracy?*

follow the instructions in this OM:

https://www.gardnerinc.com/manuals/pdf/ipl/TTI/Ridgid_benchtop_manuals/table%20saws/TS2412_0/TS24120.pdf

i have two simialr saws; one is a c-man, the other a ridgid. here's pics of the c-man's blade alignment. i keep it simple. clamp a $10 HF dial gauge to your miter gauge. make sure the gauge is snug in the slot so there's no slop (lateral movement) of the miter gauge in the miter slot. mine is dead on accurate:



















and the fence is dead on accurate to. so accurate that when i inadvertently released a work piece during a 45° bevel rip, the work piece did not move at all (NOTE: I AM NOT ADVOCATING THIS PRACTICE!!!!):


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## BandAide (Aug 7, 2014)

Thank You "Toolie" for the Rigid TS24120 manual, I was amazed how similar this saw is to My 1951 Craftsman saw.

They are so similar that I suspect that rigid made the saw for sears.

The Blade guard is an exact match as well as the mount.

I built a frame to hold the saw that is way better than the junk frame that sears sold for the saw.

I made a frame out of Uni-Strut, this is a tube steel that Electricians, Plumbers and Sheet metal workers use to hang heavy equipment in commercial construction, like hanging heavy air conditioning equipment off of steel beams in an airport (I have done this myself at the Greater Rochester International Airport. Rochester, NY)

Available in the big box store as Uni-Strut, or Super-Strut, Depending on Rather you go to one store, or another, find it in the Electrical Department, The employees probably won't know what it is because home users don't normally ever buy this stuff, it measures 1 and 3/16 square.

It is 12 or 13 gauge steel bent in a u-shape with a flanged pocket on one side, and a large slotted hole on the opposite side.

I made the frame with a 20 by 40 footprint that was 13 inches tall, so when it had the saw mounted, it would fully support the wood being pushed through, and enable me to add braking casters to the frame and still be lower than my waist for safety. (It also added 100 pounds of weight at a low center point, to make the whole unit much more stable and I welded the uprights to make sure it could handle such a heavy saw.

I then mounted two 1×6 x 24 inch maple planks on each end of the long dimension so I could mount the casters outside the frame.

I finished adding the Delta T2 30 inch fence to the frame today, also, and had to drill two holes in the fence angle iron to line up with the holes in the cast iron so that the index would line up with the right side of the saw blade.

I also had to drill two holes in the back of the cast iron table for the back guide.

Cast Iron is High in carbon, so it will act as a lubricant if your careful, stop often, and use oil, or wd-40 to keep the drill cool, and it was surprisingly easy to drill through cast iron, Heat is the enemy, If your drill bits get hot, they will chip and dull, don't force them, let them do there job naturally.

Tomorrow morning, I am ready to start alining the trunnions and lining up my Incra 1000 SE miter, and Delta t2 rip fence, then i plan on dressing the saw with maple boards.

I also plan on setting up my camera to take pictures, it looks really awesome for an ancient saw.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

Cast iron drills and taps easy easy. Incra miter gauges are pure awesome. Have the 1000hd and it's definitely a weiner.


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## BandAide (Aug 7, 2014)

Hi "TheFridge"", I hope to find out tomorrow about the Incra 1000, I am a newbie to woodworking but I have been building machines my whole life, and now that I just retired, Decided that this woodworking stuff would be awesome, I built sheet metal stuff my whole life. Wood is much prettier.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

That is is. Good luck.


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## BandAide (Aug 7, 2014)

By the way, did I mention that I really need a saw to rebuild a House because I live in a house in Country New York.

My house was built during the revolutionary war, built in 1779, 100 years before my town was founded.

Built before Washington was the first president.

All the framing in my house is made out of Sugar Maple, and the Structural frame is 12×12 inch and so hard that a 24 ounce Estwing hammer can't drive a nail into it.


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## toolie (Mar 16, 2011)

They are so similar that I suspect that rigid made the saw for sears.

Ridgid did not make your saw for Sears. Emerson electric built table saws for years for sears, as did and have many other manufacturers. Your c- man probably has a model number that starts with "113" followed by a period and then either 5( for really old tools) digits or 6( for newer vintage tools) digits. Emerson electric also built stationary power tools for the ridge tool company, which sold them under the ridgid name. That is, until around 2003, when the ridgid name was licensed to Home Depot and the manufacturing switched to one world technologies in china.

My 2412 is a made in the USA ridgid and almost an exact clone of my 113 series c- man. Apart from the convenience of having two table saws, the fact that they share a common heritage means many of their parts are interchangeable.

Enjoy your saw. Treated well aligned properly and equipped with a good blade, there's not much it won't handle. I kept mine in favor of a 3 hp unisaw that I got cheap.


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## BandAide (Aug 7, 2014)

Mine is a series 113 with a period followed by a 2, hence the 113.27520.

It was built sometime between 1933 and 1951.

The manual is dated 1951.

Emerson makes sense, They used to make good stuff like most American companies did 70 years ago.

In The "Fifties, and 60's" Emerson Products were the best consumer products around.

Their televisions always lasted for 20 or 30 years.

I wouldn't be surprised if someone wasn't still using a black and white Emerson TV.

When I started working for my company, 35 years ago the most important thing was quality, too bad it was replaced with "do it as cheap as possible, but it has to last until the warranty runs out in a year".

I,m a union Sheet Metal Mechanic, I always took pride in the really cool stuff I built, like Airports, and Colleges, and Hospitals, and prisons and Malls.

I did a ton of work at "Bethesda".

Of course, 35 years ago when I started, Electricians, and plumbers and Sheet metal workers made as much as school teachers.

I have friends who re-faced the statue of liberty.

These are all guys who had to serve an apprenticeship of 4 or more years that included advanced math skills, and memorizing weird formulas to do their jobs.

Here is one for the wrapper of an Ogee offset, 4 times the square root of the (offset squared plus the length squared minus one length) divided by 3.

Now, the skilled trades make much less.

When I left, we were using inferior products and sub-standard practices to get the job done.

I always fought it, but was always vetoed by the money .

Now, I just want to make nice stuff, because I want to, and I don't really care if I spend too much time making it nice, because I'm retired, Everyday is Saturday, Every night is Friday.

Do you think my 113 series saw could handle a bigger motor? if I get everything like the heel dialed in?

I want to Dynamically dial in the heel, Kind of like spin balancing a tire, to make it as true as possible.


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## dschlic1 (Jan 3, 2013)

The rails are 1 1/4" x 1/8" steel angle iron. Can be purchased at most fab shops.


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## drors01 (Jul 8, 2014)

If you still have the 113.27520 then please take a look at this riving knife mod

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/181954


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## rbrjr1 (Nov 2, 2017)

THIS IS pertinent to my interests..


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## rbrjr1 (Nov 2, 2017)

Here are some shots of the 113.27520 that I recently purchased and rebuilt (1952).

it'll be my workhorse when I'm done with the mobile station for it. 
as purchased:


















now:


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## houdini (Mar 3, 2018)

Hello everyone. Just joined the site. I just purchased a Craftsman 113.27520 and it came with a Craftsman 3/4 h.p. 9.3 amp 3750 rpm motor. I am extremely excited about owning my first table saw and that it is from the early 1950's. The weather has not been very cooperative so I've only started to assess what I need to get and replace. The table saw came with what I believe is the original fence that appears to be aluminum. Do I treat this like aluminum wheels and use low abrasives and scotch brite type pads to remove the chalk/surface corrosion? I suspect it is aluminum because it resembles the cookware I have from back when I was a boy scout some 25 years ago.

I'm also a bit reluctant to take a crack at disassembling the motor, mainly because I'm concerned that the screws may not come out easily. I will attempt to clean and repack grease into the bearings and would love to restore the exterior of the motor, but it appears to require renting a bearing puller and risking damaging the existing bearings which feel and run super nice as they are. Still, part of me wants to really clean out the motor. The table saw clean up and restoration seems like a cake walk compared to restoring the motor, but having it all look awesome is so tempting. I may just bite the bullet.

I suppose the upside is that I could order new bearings since they are available. I'll also admit cleaning the parts is a bit addictive and I really hope my wife doesn't get concerned with how much time I'm going to spend working on my tools.

I also have a Walker Turner bandsaw (BN730 I believe) which also needs some love and attention. This is going to be a fun year!


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## TNDan (Apr 15, 2020)

Hi everyone. I have the 113.27520 saw and want to upgrade the motor to a 2hp or 3hp. I wouldnt think this would be a problem. I have seen newer craftsman/ridged saws with 2 and 3 hp motors and most of the parts are the same or even inferior to the older saws. Whats everyones take on this? Thanks guys.


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## houdini (Mar 3, 2018)

I would think as long as you don't exceed maximum rated RPM with the right pulleys, you should be fine. Sorry I can't recall what that speed is.


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