# Building a Hand Crank Drill Press



## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

In keeping with the "unplugged" motif, I want to build a hand crank drill press like the one reportedly depicted in Siever's 'Il Pianoforte…' 1868.










This is most likely a late 18th or very early 19th century design given the fact that steam power was available way before 1868. I'm trying to find more information, photos, and/or drawings on this particular press or perhaps one similar. I have found several variations using "egg beaters" and the like, but I would really like to stay with the brace design. Any insight would be greatly appreciated … thanks in advance!


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

The only thing I worry about the design above is that you still have to manually insure that the drill is vertical which is the main reason I use my drill press on wood. Without that, you might as well just use a regular hand brace. Unless you are drilling metal with a hand brace, I don't see much advantage to having a press for wood. There are some vintage hand powered drill presses available on eBay and I occasionally see them on my local Craig's List , though they tend to list for as much as a powered one.


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

A quick search and I found this link with some examples that might be worth considering.

About half way down the page there is a design that has the 2 vertical rods to guide the press. Perhaps you could could adapt the above design to incorporate this feature somehow?


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

*"The only thing I worry about the design above is that you still have to manually insure that the drill is vertical … "*

Lazyman - That concerned me as well. Perhaps this could be aleviated with the addition of a sliding frame to hold the brace (?).


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

The version on the left doesn't give you much height to work with but is the simpler design to implement.

You obviously would have to modify the press mechanism on the version on the right so that it pulls down from the base (or somehow locks the sliding frame in place and use the top screw). Perhaps if the sliding pieces extended through the base, you could attach them to a foot pedal that uses a fulcrum rather than a screw to provide the press leverage. If it was spring loaded or counter weighted, it might also be made to retract the bit as well. The foot pedal approach would also free up a hand to help work the drill or hold the piece you are drilling. The press mechanism would have to designed in such as a way as to prevent racking as you press down on it.

Another thought would be to find a broken planer on the cheap and retask the height adjustment mechanism to work the press mechansim. Just thinking out loud.


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

Sorry for the confusion … I was trying to depict the sliding frame in two positions. The uprights are actually channels for the sliding frame. So not two verions just different views …










… if we keep this up I won't need to find plans!


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

Got it! The design process is half the fun! I like making but designing is what really makes it fun for me.

Instead of a square track, a V-shaped track might work better. I think that this might help reduce the chance of racking as it slides? I saw this approach in a router lift design in Shopnotes magazine. It also provided a way to fine tune the alignment of the track to make it slide smoothly and perfectly straight but if they are long enough that might not be necessary.


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

Lazyman - The V-shaped track sounds good, but might be a challenge for hand tools. I was acually thinking of sometihng along these lines …


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## Gentile (Jun 3, 2013)

Ron, nice concept.
Maybe a trunion of some sort to drill diagonal holes?

"An elephant is a mouse designed by a committee"


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

> Ron, nice concept.
> Maybe a trunion of some sort to drill diagonal holes?
> 
> "An elephant is a mouse designed by a committee"
> ...


Gentile - Thanks! Perhaps as to not weaken the uprights further the table might be made to swivel front to back. *YES* ... back to the drawing board …


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Very interested thread / discussion. Nothing to contribute, but love the concept!

EDIT: Scratch the 'no contribute' line… I'm wondering if there shouldn't be some kind of foot-actuated control / riser that allows the brace 'carriage' to be lowered with intent. That would keep one hand free to hold the workpiece (the other being busy turning the brace). Either that, or the carriage has to be spring loaded so the foot lever pulls it down to the work.


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Maybe build one of these?


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

> Very interested thread / discussion. Nothing to contribute, but love the concept!
> 
> EDIT: Scratch the no contribute  line… I m wondering if there shouldn t be some kind of foot-actuated control / riser that allows the brace carriage to be lowered with intent. That would keep one hand free to hold the workpiece (the other being busy turning the brace). Either that, or the carriage has to be spring loaded so the foot lever pulls it down to the work.
> 
> - Smitty_Cabinetshop


I'm actually working on that now … rope attached to foot pedal running inside the side channel pieces secured to the frame surrounding the brace. So far no "spring back" mechanism … but I'm thinking about a spring pole attached to the ceiling!!


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

> Maybe build one of these?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Bandit571 - Too much metal, takes two hands, too portable … and besides … where is the brace? Remember I want to keep the brace!


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## ElroyD (Oct 15, 2016)

I was going to suggest the same thing that Bandit did. I have one of those that I found in my father-in-law's barn, and it works great. It doesn't take up a huge amount of space, and can be clamped down if needed.

The blacksmith shop at Old Sturbridge Village has a cool beam-type drill press that uses sliding weights to keep pressure on the drill. I know a tinsmith/blacksmith who works there, and he said it works really well on metal. It does take up a lot of space though.

I'll look through some of my books and see if I can find anything on treadle-driven brace type drills. Something like that does seem like it'd be a happy medium between the two.


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

Thanks, Elroy … I look forward to seeing what you find! I just left the shop having cut out the members for the sliding carriage as depicted above. I used some 4/4 sassafras … sure does smell nice … masks the smell of the machine oil on the brace!!


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

> Lazyman - The V-shaped track sounds good, but might be a challenge for hand tools. I was acually thinking of sometihng along these lines …
> 
> - Ron Aylor


I am not proficient enough at hand tools to do this myself but my thoughts were that maybe you could basically use a hand plane to sort of make extreme chamfers to make the V, perhaps using a shooting board or donkey's ear type jig to get a consistent angle? They could also be carefully hand cut with a saw and tuned up with a hand plane. This would be pretty easy on a table saw of course.










The 2 blue pieces would each be made separately and glued in as you formed the yellow U-shaped channel. The red pieces could be shaped from a single piece. With this approach you only have 3 sharp points that can dig into the wood channel as the various forces and resistance cause it to rack and 2 obtuse corners that should be less likely to bind rather than 8 corners in the slated groove design. Just seems to me that it would slide more smoothly with fewer pinch points. Might be worth experimenting with to see if my theory is correct.


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

Just had another thought…

It might not fit in with the 18th century aesthetic of the design that has inspired you but I have seen some shop made tools, including a mortising machine, that used heavy duty drawer slides to make a rock solid sliding mechanism. Just food for thought.


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## Hookedin (Apr 17, 2013)

Hmm, with the V groove design I feel like any side force on the carriage would cause a wedging action, making the whole system more likely to bind. With the rectangular grove rail you wound not get that wedging action.


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

> Hmm, with the V groove design I feel like any side force on the carriage would cause a wedging action, making the whole system more likely to bind. With the rectangular grove rail you wound not get that wedging action.
> 
> - Hookedin


Not sure I understand what you mean. Do you mean side force in the direct of the points on the wedges (side to side) or at 90 degrees to that (front to back)? I would think that the front to back force would be about the same for both. On the other hand, my intuition tells me that the wedges would make a side to side force cause it to center itself in the groove which should improve accuracy (which is one reason to build a drill press in the first place). If you round over the point of the wedge so that it can never make contact with the inside of the V it seems to me that it would be less likely to bind. Also, the 2 outside corners on each side might act like a fulcrum or pivot point as you work the brace around in a circle and because they aren't very deep on the tongue and groove version, it just doesn't look as strong to me. Just a guess on my part. I am not an engineer or anything.

But thinking this through makes me think that a linear bearing approach (sort of like sliding mortise and tenon and similar to the image of the antique one I posted above) might be better than either design. For example, have both of the carriage guides shaped like a square box that slides over a square 2"x2" hardwood post (assuming Ron wants to stick with wood). I you use box joints to make the box bearing it will be really strong and rigid and make the whole thing look even more like a work of art.


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

Thanks, Hookedin and Lazyman for your input … as they say there's more than one way to skin a cat. As to the sliding carriage, I have decided to go with the U-shaped channel and square slider. This worked well on my treadle reciprocating (marquetry) saw.










Went to work on it this morning around 9:30 … finished up around 2:30 PM.










The horizontal pieces are sassafras, the verticals are white pine 1×2's.










Not much to look at, but at least I'm moving forward. Think I'll tackle the base next!


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

Looks good. Is there any sort of bearing or bushing at the top or around the bottom of the brace?

I've been thinking about how to apply pressure too. Are you still planning to use a rope connected the frame to apply the downward pressure. You may have already considered this but the reason I am asking is two fold First, don't underestimate the amount of force required to be effective. Powered drill presses can generate considerable pressure. You may need some leverage or pulleys to generate sufficient force. Second, because of the forces, you may want to attach the rope to the vertical slide rather than the horizontal cross beam to avoid pulling the joint apart. The joint at the top may need beefing up as well since the pressure will be transferred through that joint to the top of the brace. Not sure the screws, even with glue, will be strong enough. That's a pretty small joint and might need beefing up if I am right about the forces required?

I was also thinking about the idea about a tilting table so you can drill angled holes. Instead of complex trunnions, a hinge at one side and a way to prop up the other side would be much easier. As long as you do not glue down the table top, you could always add that later if you find you want it.

I hope you don't mind my participating in your design process vicariously.


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

Lazyman - Thanks, all of this is quite helpful. !

*"I hope you don't mind my participating in your design process vicariously."*

Not at all … I think this is fun!


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## Dakkar (Feb 14, 2013)

There's always a lot to be learned by exploring our ideas and I think you'll learn a lot from this project, Ron. To my eye, the simple window-style wooden sliding sides could be a trouble point with this. Your whole purpose is to hold the drill bit precisely vertical and frames like that often seem to have some side-to-side sway to them. I'm suspecting that this will defeat your efforts for a consistently vertical hole.

Perhaps if you found a pair of matched rack and pinion rigs and mounted them to the sides it might work satisfactorily. The expense of that could be more than you'd pay for working vintage hand press, though.

Good luck with it. I'm sure we can all learn something from your experiece.


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

It might be worth looking at Shipwright's veneer press and here for examples of similar frames capable of taking some serious pressure. Yours probably will not have to handle as much load as this veneer press but this is more of the type of frame and joinery that I envisioned based upon the antique diagram in the OP.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Here is google's translation of the text. 
For drilling of big irons like spranche, tailpieces, the pew irons and so on. you and Trapanatoio, that a large Menarola fixed frame on a kind of bench; Menarola this one runs by one or two men if necessary, according to the greatness of the work.

And the original text, if anyone speaks Italian. 
Per forare dei ferri grossi come le spranche, le cordiere, i ferri di pancone ecc. vi e il Trapanatoio, cioe una grossa Menarola a telaio fisso sopra una specie di banco; questa menarola si fa girare da uno, o due uomini se occorre, secondo la grandezza del lavoro.


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

> Here is google s translation of the text.
> _For drilling of big irons like *spranche*, tailpieces,...
> 
> - Rick M.


BTW, I was curious what "spranche" means and after some digging I found an Italian-English dictionary that translated it to "wimble". A wimble is a brace or a drill. I also couldn't figure out what a pew iron was. The same dictionary translated "pancone " to bench so this is probably more accurately translated to "bench iron" as in workbench.


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

Ron, I finally remembered where I had see the shop built mortising machine that used drawer slides. You can see a picture on the cover of Woodsmith magazine issue number 217 here:
http://www.woodsmithlibrary.com/view/issue/217/
You can see how they made a carriage that was beefy enough to handle the weight and stresses of cutting mortises with a router. If you find that your current design isn't strong enough, 2 Smaller versions of the WS design on opposite sides of the table to guide the frame might be another option.

You can also see how their press mechanism generates leverage. A similar approach under the table that is worked by your foot might work better than a rope because it only (mostly) applies downward pressure and doesn't stretch like a rope will.


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

Taking a break while the glue dries … just glued up some Idaho pine for the base. I have decided to go with a Roubo style base … basicly a really tall 24" x 24" workbench. I'll worry about the uprights once they get narrowed down … I'm figuring sliding dovetails in from each side (??).

Thanks, Lazyman! I'll download and take a look at the Woodsmith article


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

> BTW, I was curious what "spranche" means and after some digging I found an Italian-English dictionary that translated it to "wimble". A wimble is a brace or a drill. I also couldn t figure out what a pew iron was. The same dictionary translated "pancone " to bench so this is probably more accurately translated to "bench iron" as in workbench.
> 
> - Lazyman


I worked on the translation a bit more and here is where I am. 
Menarola doesn't translate but I believe it refers to the screw mechanism; probably a compound word or jargon.
Trapanatoio: Trapanatore means driller. I thought "io" might be a conjugation but I can't find find it.

Here is a better translation:
For drilling of big irons such as iron bars, tailpieces, planks and so on. You and drill(?), i.e. a large Menarola on a fixed frame above a kind of bench; Menarola this one runs by one or two men if necessary, according to the greatness of the work.

Basically I believe this was a machine for punching holes in metal or boring large pieces of wood where a traditional brace was too small. As a general purpose drill press I don't believe the juice will be worth the squeeze.


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## knockknock (Jun 13, 2012)

Wiktionary ( https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/menarola ) has menarola defined as a noun: brace (tool)

With a synonym of girabacchino, a noun: brace (tool), brace and bit


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## realcowtown_eric (Feb 4, 2013)

There is a device oft referred to as an "engineers drill" which is essentially similar to a Stanley 982 except for the grip on the top. Similar to this..
http://www.vintagetools.net/product/goodell-pratt-corner-ratcheting-bit-brace

The Engineers drill has a point at the top, such that it would fit into a hole in a leve fastened to a wall. The idea is that the lever provided the leverage needed for an "engineer" to prived enuff force to push a twist drill bit through metal.

Somewhere I have one…will try to find and post a picture, It would do what the image you posted would do, but use a heck of a lot less floor space.

Eric in Calgary


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

Rick M, Lazyman, knockknock, et all … isn't all of this interesting/fun? I'm willing to bet that the study of Italian, albeit basic, was not on anyone's "to-do" list earlier in the week!

*"As a general purpose drill press I don't believe the juice will be worth the squeeze." - Rick M.*

Perhaps, but I've always had an affinity for marmalade!


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

> There is a device oft referred to as an "engineers drill" ... Somewhere I have one…will try to find and post a picture, It would do what the image you posted would do, but use a heck of a lot less floor space.
> 
> Eric in Calgary
> 
> - realcowtown_eric


Thanks, Eric … I hope you find it … I look forward to the photo!


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

> Rick M, Lazyman, knockknock, et all … isn t all of this interesting/fun? I m willing to bet that the study of Italian, albeit basic, was not on anyone s "to-do" list earlier in the week!
> - Ron Aylor


I ended up translating each word, then groups of words, and choosing the most likely meanings until it made sense.



> Wiktionary ( https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/menarola ) has menarola defined as a noun: brace (tool)
> - knockknock


Thanks.

For drilling big iron bars, tailpieces, planks and so on. You and the Trapanatoio (word related to drill), i.e. a large brace on a fixed frame above a bench; this brace runs by one or two men if necessary, according to the greatness of the work.

I don't think the correct translation is "you and the"; vi e il Trapanatoio, probably translates to "your drill" or it could be the name of the device.


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

*"I don't think the correct translation is "you and the"; vi e il Trapanatoio, probably translates to "your drill" or it could be the name of the device." - Rick M.*

Rick - I agree … given that the word Trapanatoio is capitalized and appears to be in italics in the original text leads me to believe it is the name of the device as well. Great research!


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

I don't get it - what puts down pressure on the bit to go through material? I was going to suggest a foot feed like on a manual mortiser.


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

> I don t get it - what puts down pressure on the bit to go through material? I was going to suggest a foot feed like on a manual mortiser.
> 
> - dhazelton


It appears that on the original press, down pressure was via the cscrew mechanism at the top. On the version that I'm building there will indeed be a foot pedal. I'm leaning towards a rope attached to the top member of the sliding frame, running through the uprights attached to the foot pedal underneath. It appears that the jury is still out as to whether this will work or not … will just have to see!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Then there's the practical matter of pulling the bit up, through the completed hole when it's done. So much about that plate in the OP that is missing but must have been considered.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

The original had a screw at the top, you could crank it up and down. The picture I posted shows it better.


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

> Then there s the practical matter of pulling the bit up, through the completed hole when it s done. So much about that plate in the OP that is missing but must have been considered.
> 
> - Smitty_Cabinetshop


I would imagine that in the OP pulling the bit up through the hole was achieved by simply reversing the direction of the screw mechanism at the top. For my version, I have considered a spring pole attached to the ceiling (??)

Here is my working drawing so far (minus the sping pole idea):


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## Cooler (Feb 3, 2016)

Linear bearings would make a simple way to deal with the up and down motion. It would not look vintage however.


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

> Linear bearings would make a simple way to deal with the up and down motion. It would not look vintage however.
> 
> - Cooler


Precisly! And just think … where we would be today if the Brits had had nukes at Yorktown!


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## JADobson (Aug 14, 2012)

> Linear bearings would make a simple way to deal with the up and down motion. It would not look vintage however.
> 
> - Cooler
> 
> ...


Probably wondering if Brexit was the right move? On the plus side it would have saved you from having to make a really uncomfortable choice next month.


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

> Linear bearings would make a simple way to deal with the up and down motion. It would not look vintage however.
> 
> - Cooler
> 
> ...


Touché!

But, all kidding aside … my neighbors think I'm crazy. They all have garages full of power this and power that and most weekends everything is screaming … and there I stand in my dark little shop sweating my way through a piece a 8/4 maple with a hand saw … so yeah, I need to this the hard way!


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

> Looks good. Is there any sort of bearing or bushing at the top or around the bottom of the brace?
> 
> - Lazyman


Lazyman - Sorry, I think I missed answering this … the top of the brace just has the cap removed and replaced with the top horizontal of the sliding frame … so yes, the original bearing is at the top. The bottom is just a tight fit … I removed the chuck and screwed the brace through the lower horizontal … the threaded part came all the way through with at least 1/4" to spare to re-attach the chuck … so no lower bearing, just a pleasant smell of sassafras as things heat up!


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

Just completed the top portion of my drill press; 28" wide by 29" high. The side members are 2-1/4" x 3"; the top rail is removable to allow for removal of sliding frame and brace.










The sliding frame moves freely and surprisingly no noticeable slop!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Looks great, Ron!


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

> Looks great, Ron!
> 
> - Smitty_Cabinetshop


Thanks, Smitty!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Now for the base, right? There HAS TO BE a video demo when this thing comes together…


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Yeah I'd like to see a video too, when done. It's looking a lot better than I imagined in the beginning.


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

> Now for the base, right? There HAS TO BE a video demo when this thing comes together…
> 
> - Smitty_Cabinetshop





> Yeah I d like to see a video too, when done. It s looking a lot better than I imagined in the beginning.
> 
> - Rick M.


Yes, the base is next. I have glued-up 2×4s for the legs and bench top. I'm thinking about a dark stain with an even darker glaze; will leave the sassafras natural. So, Deal … Video demo once completed! That is if we can figure it out on my wife's phone. All of the photos were taken with the phone, so a video should be no problem. Again, thanks for the encouragement!


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

I'm gettin' there …


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Awesome pic, looking forward to seeing what you come up with!


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## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

OK, this is getting exciting Ron. Will the brace be able to be changed out for different sweeps?


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

> OK, this is getting exciting Ron. Will the brace be able to be changed out for different sweeps?
> 
> - theoldfart


It could, but I have a substantial sweep in there now. But yes, the brace is completely removable!


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

This is looking good. I can't wait to see how it works.


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

Thanks, Nathan. Unfortunately, with the time change my shop time might be weekends only for a bit … too dark to see … even with ALL the candles burning!


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

Maybe you can work by the light coming off the monitor on your hand crank computer!


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

> Maybe you can work by the light coming off the monitor on your hand crank computer!
> 
> - Lazyman


Touché


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

Daylight Saving Time …  ... why are we still doing this?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Holy cow, you weren't kidding about candlelight!


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

> Holy cow, you weren t kidding about candlelight!
> 
> - Smitty_Cabinetshop


Yeah, I think it looks pretty cool. This light is okay for cleaning up, putting tools away, and such; it's just not good enough for working … I have grown accustomed to having all ten fingers!


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

First dry fit … so far so go!


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## SamuelP (Feb 26, 2011)

Fantastic. Is there going to be a clamping system to hold work in place?


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

> Fantastic. Is there going to be a clamping system to hold work in place?
> 
> - SamuelP


Sam - Other than perhaps clamping the work to the bench top with a "C" or bar clamp, no. I had considered a few holes for dogs and holdfast, but by not knowing how big/small a workpiece might be, decided against that idea. I will have to work with this press for a bit once completed before making a final decision. Thanks for asking!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Working with it a bit is a very sound approach. One never knows how it will actually work, and what might be an obvious need / enhancement.


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

> Working with it a bit is a very sound approach. One never knows how it will actually work, and what might be an obvious need / enhancement.
> 
> - Smitty_Cabinetshop


Smitty, this could very well be the reason we find no extant versions of the drill-press in the original posting. I can only pray that I have not spent all this time creating yet another horizontal surface to store finishing supplies!


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

> I just came across a site with over 16,000 downloadable woodworking plans at:
> 
> http://bit.ly/2eNfc2f
> 
> - mrkristof47


Spammer Alert


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

Thank you, Nathan … I flagged it … unfortunately, I flagged your post as well since you copied the link … please take no offense … thanks!


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

In hind sight, I probably should not have done that


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

Would kerosene lamps be an acceptable solution to Congressionally-mandated darkness?


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

> Would kerosene lamps be an acceptable solution to Congressionally-mandated darkness?
> 
> - Dave Polaschek


Dave - I've actually been thinking about oil lamps … perhaps with some sort of mirror arrangement!


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## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

Whale oil in the interest of authenticity (feeling trollish today)


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

Getting back on track …

Need to nail down the spring mechanism attached to the sliding frame. I don't know which way to go. Should I consider a leaf spring set-up akin to Pruden's 1853 Mortiser …










... where the leaf spring keeps the sliding frame up off the bench and the rope attached to the foot pedal (mentioned earlier) providers the downward force, OR, attempt a wooden spring akin to Gould's 1840 Mortiser …










... where threaded rods would extend through the bench top and connect through both horizontal members of the sliding frame?

Decision … decisions!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

I see how the leaf springs concept would work, but can't get my pea brain to understand how Gould's vertical spring translates to horizontal movement of your upper frame.


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

Might not be as elegant or as gratifying to build as the wooden spring mechanisms but pulleys and counterweights are another simpler option. You can easily make your own wooden pulleys. Pulleys, if attached to the ceiling, would obviously make it harder to move it around, but it could be as simple as having 1 weight on each side pulling down the side sort of like an old style window counterweight.


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## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

My pea brain is asking why the need for any kind of pressure mechanism. The bits are threaded and designed to pull the bit through the work so all that should be needed are a few clamps. Am I really that far off the mark? Be gentle, I'm fragile!


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

> My pea brain is asking why the need for any kind of pressure mechanism. The bits are threaded and designed to pull the bit through the work so all that should be needed are a few clamps. Am I really that far off the mark? Be gentle, I m fragile!
> 
> - theoldfart


Yes, the threads of an auger bit will pull the bit through the work, but a Forstner, brad tip, or center bit might need a little boost … and then there needs to be some sort of spring to pull the bit(s) back out …



> I see how the leaf springs concept would work, but can t get my pea brain to understand how Gould s vertical spring translates to horizontal movement of your upper frame.
> 
> - Smitty_Cabinetshop


Smitty, there is no horizontal movement of the sliding frame. I was referring to the horizontal members (top and bottom) of the sliding frame.



> Might not be as elegant or as gratifying to build as the wooden spring mechanisms but pulleys and counterweights are another simpler option. You can easily make your own wooden pulleys. Pulleys, if attached to the ceiling, would obviously make it harder to move it around, but it could be as simple as having 1 weight on each side pulling down the side sort of like an old style window counterweight.
> 
> - Lazyman


I think I've talked myself out of mounting any part of this thing to the ceiling as earlier pondered. I may need to move it around every now and then … so it needs to self contained.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

I need to restate my premise, probably with drawings of some kind. It's with Gould, his piece is oriented vertically vs. the horizontal mounting of the leaf springs. Either way, I'll see what you do and learn, one way or another.


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

> I need to restate my premise, probably with drawings of some kind. It s with Gould, his piece is oriented vertically vs. the horizontal mounting of the leaf springs. Either way, I ll see what you do and learn, one way or another.
> 
> - Smitty_Cabinetshop


Smitty - This is what I'm currently thinking …










... I feel like I only need a few inches of travel.

(Please forgive the quality of this sketch … it was quick and dirty in MS Paint!)


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

One thing to think about with the spring approach is that the resistance increases as you put more tension on it. So the further down you go, the more effort you will be putting into driving it downward. This also means that on the upstroke, it is reducing so you will have less help extracting the bit at the top of the hole.

With the counterweight and pulley approach, the resistance is constant through the entire stroke and in both directions.

Also, don't forget that the further back you attach the rod to the foot pedal the less vertical stroke you'll have (but more mechanical advantage). If you attach it half way between the end and the fulcrum at the back and you need 4" of travel for example, I think that your foot will have to travel 8 inches.


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

Great shop! Where dost thou hideth ye cider jug?


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

> Great shop! Where dost thou hideth ye cider jug?
> 
> - dhazelton


Thanks … LOL! Just off camera to the left!


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

Decided to fit the uprights while pondering the spring mechanism …










... I think it's square …










... ah, nice tight fit!










After fitting this thing together one more time, I decided to give it a test-drive. With a 1/2" bit in the brace, I bored through a piece of 4/4 pine as if it was butter. The sliding frame worked well … in and out of the hole under its own weight. Looks to me like the hole is square.










I also used an expansion bit and bored a 1-1/8" hole through the same piece of 4/4 pine with the same results … a nice square hole (sorry no photo). I think I'll just glue it up; work with it for a bit and see if it really needs a spring mechanism.

Final photos once glued-up and finished!


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## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

Ron, in place of some sort of spring press mechanism could weights be placed on the cross piece to drive the non-snail bits?

And may I recommend Carrs Cider to fill your jug? One of my favorites.


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

> Ron, in place of some sort of spring press mechanism could weights be placed on the cross piece to drive the non-snail bits?
> 
> And may I recommend Carrs Cider to fill your jug? One of my favorites.
> 
> - theoldfart


TOF - Funny you should ask that … just for kicks I punt in a 3/4" spade bit and with just a little downward pressure on the sliding frame with my left hand … voilà … nice clean square hole! Who would have thought a high-speed spade bit would work in a brace? I guess I got lucky with the uprights and sliding frame … no slop! So … I'm thinking of putting a knob on the top of the sliding frame for those occasions when I need a little extra downward pressure.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

Looks to me like you've got a pretty workable setup there. Nice work! I like the "try it and see" approach too. If you do decide you need weights or springs, it may be that the need will help suggest a solution, too.


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## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

Ron, then get your self a good set of center bits. They should work even better with the ramped leading edge.


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

> Looks to me like you ve got a pretty workable setup there. Nice work! I like the "try it and see" approach too. If you do decide you need weights or springs, it may be that the need will help suggest a solution, too.
> 
> - Dave Polaschek


Thanks, Dave.



> Ron, then get your self a good set of center bits. They should work even better with the ramped leading edge.
> 
> - theoldfart


TOF - Will do!


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## MrSmith670 (Jan 26, 2014)

I am thoroughly enjoying this thread. Nice job.


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

> I am thoroughly enjoying this thread. Nice job.
> 
> - John


Thanks, John!


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## Tim457 (Jan 11, 2013)

You don't kid around, nice work. I never would have guessed a spade bit would work in a brace, but I've tried most other types of bits made for power drills and they work fine, so it makes sense.


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

> You don t kid around, nice work. I never would have guessed a spade bit would work in a brace, but I ve tried most other types of bits made for power drills and they work fine, so it makes sense.
> 
> - Tim


Thanks, Tim. Although a nice set of vintage center bits would be nice, I might pick up a set of Milwaukee® 6" Universal Flat Boring Bits. These bits seem to be close to the design of a center bit. I just hope no one sees me in the power tool section and posts photos!


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## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

We are watching! Luddites unite!


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## Tim457 (Jan 11, 2013)

I have a few vintage center bits and they are nice, but not as good as an auger bit. I guess it depends on what time period you're trying to copy.


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

> I have a few vintage center bits and they are nice, but not as good as an auger bit. I guess it depends on what time period you re trying to copy.
> 
> - Tim


Tim - It's not per se a matter of emulating a time period, as much as boring a perfectly square hole. The leading screw on an auger bit dictates the angle of the bore as it pulls the bit through the work piece, where the angle of the bore can be changed with a center bit; or any other bit without a leading screw. I think I'll find that non-leading screw bits will work best with this dill press.


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## Tim457 (Jan 11, 2013)

If I'm thinking of the right thing called center bits, then they have a lead point (mine have three sides like a triangular awl) that works the same way as an auger snail, but doesn't have the threads to pull it in. I've not tried changing the angle with a center bit to compare to changing the angle with an auger. Does it change angle better than an auger bit? Spoon bits are one way chair makers change their angle. Sorry to derail your thread.


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

> If I m thinking of the right thing called center bits, then they have a lead point (mine have three sides like a triangular awl) that works the same way as an auger snail, but doesn t have the threads to pull it in. I ve not tried changing the angle with a center bit to compare to changing the angle with an auger. Does it change angle better than an auger bit? Spoon bits are one way chair makers change their angle. Sorry to derail your thread.
> 
> - Tim


No derailing here! That lead point may look the same but doesn't act the same. Center bits require donward force. The threads on the auger bit pull the bit through the work with very little downward force, you just have to keep it moving and square … as my grandpa used to say … "if you have to push that hard, you better sharpen that bit!"


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

Thanks for all the help guys … project complete! See the finished product here: Hand Crank Drill Press


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