# How to Get a Smooth Finish With Paint On Bare Wood?



## Mean_Dean

Hey Guys,

I just finished a set of cabinet doors, out of poplar, and finished them with a good-quality paint, but the texture of the paint is rough to the touch, not smooth.

These are the steps I followed:

#1) Sanded the doors to 150 grit

#2) Brushed on 1 coat of Kilz water-based white primer, and allowed it to dry overnight

#3) As the grain was raised, I sanded the primer with 150 grit to smooth it.

#4) With the primer coat now smooth, I brushed on 1 coat of the water-based, latex paint, and allowed it to dry overnight

#5) The texture was a bit rough, as I brushed on the 2nd (and last) coat, and let it dry overnight

The texture is slightly smoother, but still feels a little rough to the touch. Does anyone have any suggestions to get a smooth finish? Am I doing something wrong, or skipping a step?

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!


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## JayT

The best way I know to get a really smooth finish is to spray.

If you can't spary, make sure to have a really good quality brush and add some Floetrol to the paint. That will help it self level much better.


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## DrDirt

http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-to/article/better-painted-furniture.aspx
http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-to/article/three-steps-to-a-flawless-painted-finish.aspx

FWW did a few articles - 
One used a tinted lacquer brushed on
The other (better painted furniture) used automotive products, and talks extensively about using auto primer, which acts as a grain filler also to get glass smooth surface to paint.

Key is getting the surface level and sealed - so the primer is the most important.

Good luck


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## vikingcape

Did you tip it after you brushed? I spread an even coat and then right away take a clean brush and run the tips over the surface to give it a very nice finish. That's how I was taught when painting my dad's 145 commercial fishing vessel. I was always responsible for hanging over the side and doing the lettering. Of course that is a steel boat not a wood one. Tipping though is key, I did that with the front door of my house.


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## wapakfred

I think it may have been the paint. If that was just a latex paint, as in paint for walls, then you may have done much better with an acrylic latex.


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## tefinn

Those FWW articles are only available to paid subscribers!


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## ClintSearl

What I do:
1. Sand to 220, and remove all dust
2. Brush or roll a coat of flat latex/acrylic premium wall paint. I prefer Behr. Skip the shellac.
3. Smooth it back with 220 drywall sanding screen.
4. Repeat steps 2 & 3
5. Brush or roll the final coat in the sheen of choice.

I usually stick with flat and top with either waterborne poly if brushing or CAB acrylic solvent lacquer if spraying


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## renners

Foam rollers will give you a good finish if you can't spray. Build a heavy primer base and sand it back glass smooth, then top coat.


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## Earlextech

Latex is never a proper final finish on any cabinetry or furniture projects. You should be using a tinted lacquer/poly/shellac for a furniture quality finish.

If you're going to stick with latex, add Floetrol and use a foam roller or a $30 brush.


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## bondogaposis

Sand the primer to 320 before apply paint. Sand each coat of paint to 400 except the final coat. Rub the final coat w/ a brown paper bag if it is rough.


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## ClintSearl

Why isn't latex/acrylic ever a* proper *finish? Inquiring minds want to know.


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## Charlie5791

We topped our painted cabinets with some water-based, satin poly. So far, a bit over a year in service and they look great. Have to let the acrylic dry well before putting poly on.


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## Earlextech

Clint, Really or are you just playing? 
I know you agree because your post says you top coat with poly. For others that don't know, latex is house paint. Go ahead and paint a table top with latex, let it cure as long as you want, then put all your favorite things on it. Framed pictures, humidor, books. Let them sit there for a couple of days. Now try to remove them without pulling the paint off.
Also, latex was not designed to be sprayed. It just doesn't lay down a nice smooth finish like a lacquer or a poly.It has to be modified to spray and that can ruin the properties of the paint. 
Latex is rubber, if you want a rubber finish on your furniture, great, but I don't and my customers don't.


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## ClintSearl

Sam, I may have misunderstood your earlier comment. I'm a big fan of interior acrylic wall and trim paint for anything colored. It (I prefer flat) goes on smooth and builds fast. I always top it with a waterborne poly or solvent lacquer, though I think that in semi -gloss or gloss, premium formulations dry hard and fast enough NOT to exhibit the stickiness of the old latexes. I wouldn't hesitate to use it on cabinets.


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## jap

This is an interesting read on painting a mirror finish http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/67501/how-to-paint-mdf-to-a-mirror-finish-worklog


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## BentheViking

I just redid all my cabinet doors by spraying enamel and they came out great. Assuming you can't spray then try at least brushing/rolling it on. Its pretty thin so even thick coats leveled out nicely. I used SW Proclassic Latex enamel. And no stickiness after it dries.


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## Mean_Dean

Thanks everyone! You gave me some great suggestions, and I'm going to put them to use on my next cabinet door project!

Thanks again,


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## MysticCottage

Sorry if I'm a little late to post on this, but here goes:
Decide on what the use and exposure is going to be of the piece.
Sand wood to max of 220.
Oil base is better to prime wood, if you thin down by 5-10% you will have better absorption.
Sand lightly with 220.
If you are wanting to use water based material, use 100% acrylic. Acrylic technology has improved greatly over the years. Depending on what the use is, as to what coating to use; consult a professional at your supplier because there are different coatings for different substrates and uses.
Applying water based coating by spray or brush will have an effect of the finish. Smoother finish desired, use spray. Water based does not settle well because of drying time. If you use a brush, use a good one, and do not over work because bubbles can form quickly.
I suggest using 220 between coats, but go lightly.
If you are after a high gloss paint, you can coat using a wipe on poly or high gloss acrylic. Warning, acrylic still do not get as high a sheen as oil based. If you use a wipe on poly, I prefer to use a 400 grit to obtain a silky finish.
Oil finishes provide the best protection, desired feel and aesthetics. Water based needs 28 days to cure, so do not wash or put under heavy use until after then.


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## lesage

Dean, I agree with JayT. Get a high quality sprayer. A few years back I decided to refinish the kitchen cabinets. Try as I may, and using many of the techniques you mentioned, I could NOT achieve the finish I wanted until I bought a Grayco airless spray rig. Learning to use it took little effort on scrap wood and then I was off and running. Check for good used rigs on Craigslist if you don't want to invest in something new.


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## davidroberts

Sorry, I didn't read all of every post, so if someone suggested a light sanding of the painted surface, then you're first. I'm a really poor painter. I make all the nobe mistakes, all the time, every time. But wet sanding with 320, 400, 600 grit in sequence, will get you a smooth painted surface. It's just a pain.

Also, I use the Emerald grade of Sherman Williams paint most of the time, which I consider about the best off the shelf retail brand you can buy.


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