# Question for Maloof Rocker Experts



## JamesT (Mar 1, 2013)

I'm using Charles Brock Maloof rocker plans to build my seventh and eighth Maloof rocker. The one thing I don't like about the Brock plans are the adder blocks used on the back leg to seat joint to get the 5-6 degree splay. I thought about ordering the 5 degree router bits that are available from Whiteside and Eagle American but for the life of me, I can't figure out how they work. I also see from an on-line video that Sam Morrison uses a 5 degree jig to route the joint on his chairs.
I'm looking for advice from the Maloof rocker experts that use the 5 degree bits or the Morrison jig. Also, would using the bits or jig and not using the adder blocks affect the width of the chair at the head rest? Thanks


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## RBWoodworker (Mar 22, 2009)

I have been building authentic reproductions of Sam Maloof rockers for years now and build them the same way Sam built his..the bits are relatively simple to use because they are following the 5 degree cut on the outer seat blanks.. that's the beauty of the bits.. the bearings on them are also made in a 5 degree which will follow the 5 degree cut made on the blanks. outside of properly setting the depth of the bits cut..they are made to cut 1/4" in which is what you want. Let me clarify.. seat blanks for a Maloof rocker are 1-7/8" thick by 4-1/4" wide by 20-1/2" long finished dimension.. if you are milling for the back and front legs and have a 7/8" tenon.. then the depth of the bits are to be 1/2" on top and bottom.. the outer seat blanks have to be laid out to the thickness of the legs (2") but being extra careful that the lay-out of the 2" is at the top of the seat, not the bottom.. from that mark on top, you want a 5 degree cut so you get the 5 degree splay.. trust me the bits simplify the joint procedure.. PM me if you need any clarification I can send pictures that explain it better..


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## casual1carpenter (Aug 16, 2011)

JamesT Perhaps the drawing will help when my description fails. the rear seat corner is notched to accept the rear legs with a 90 degree vertical cut in the side to side direction. The front to back cut is 5 degree off vertical. You then would use all three router bits to prep this one joint area, with the straight cutter used top and bottom on the side to side area and using each of the 5 degree bits top and bottom matching the cut angle to the tenon.

hope this helps…....


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## RBWoodworker (Mar 22, 2009)

from the looks of the picture…is the joints shown for both the front and back leg? or both for the back legs only? if so.. the longer cut is incorrect.. the joint shown needs to be turned around.. but I see what your saying..


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## JamesT (Mar 1, 2013)

Thanks guys, lets see if I understand: In *addition* to using the 5 degree bits, the front to back portion of the notch is cut at 5 degrees, which would make the bottom side of the notch something more than 2 inches.
Is the finished seat 21-1/4 inches wide? 
It appears that Morrell Woodworks (I said Morrison earlier, to many people making chairs) cuts the 5 degree angle using his jig on the side to side portion of the notch. http://morrellwoodworks.com/?p=153 
I also have a Hal Taylor instructional DVD and he too uses adder blocks, much the same as Charles Brock.


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## RBWoodworker (Mar 22, 2009)

The routerbits eliminate the need for any jigs, which is what I like, NOW… in saying that.. I need to say this.. first off.. why does anyone make a "Maloof inspired" rocker? Sam's design is classic, and elegant and if you don't know what your doing, downright difficult, me, knowing Sam personally and seeing his rockers up close and personal for many years, I can attest that I have seen the drawbacks using the routerbits, such as this.. When you look at the routerbits closely..the 1/4" on the bit that is used on top of the seat blank, the 1/4" depth starts at the bottom of the cutter ( closest to the bearing) and "flares" outward the 5 degrees, meaning it's now slightly wider than the 1/4" cut closest to the bearing, this "flare out" cuts a smidge deeper where it hits the corner of the joint, and because the front of the joint gets only the 1/4" chairmakers bit, it leaves a slight roundcut that the leg cannot fill tightly but it's just a small gap and only at the corner of the joint. now that I've said that i will say this.. Sam's chairs.. ALL OF THEM.. had this gap as well. he simply filled them with epoxy and sawdust and it was barely ever noticeable.. that's the only drawback with using these bits..of all the rockers I have ever made..I have never had any issue with any of these gaps..but I can also say that if your careful, and stop the 5 degree bits cut just a hair shy of the corner and then route with the 1/4" chairmakers rabbetting bit..it can be avoided..but then again, if we are striving to make an authentic looking Maloof rocker, this is all part of it as well


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## JamesT (Mar 1, 2013)

Randall, 
The small gap you speak of, is it on the bottom side of the seat or is it visible from the top? 
Seems to me their are so many Maloof inspired chairs that it takes someone such as yourself to understand the details of an authentic Maloof rocker. As for myself, I try to make a rocker that I'm pleased with, not worrying so much if its authentic or not. For me rockers are a hobby and I can't justify the cost of fancy woods, so I use local Missouri walnut or cherry. Of all the maloof "inspired" or "style" I've looked at, I think I like Scott Morrison's interpretation the best. Thanks


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## RBWoodworker (Mar 22, 2009)

the small gap is on the top, but like I was saying it can be eliminated by stopping the bit just before it hits the corner of the joint and allowing the straight chairmakers bit to hit the corner instead.. Scott Morrison does a great interpretation of the Maloof inspired as well..

As for making them authetic, I encourage folks to make them however they see fit and what works best for them, as for me..I just fell in love with the way Sam makes his and teach my classes to make them the same way, but also allow them to explore what they would like to do differently as long as it doesn't affect the structure integrity of the chair..


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## JamesT (Mar 1, 2013)

Thanks Randall, you've been a big help. Jim


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## bkap (Sep 29, 2006)

Fellow rocker makers. Use the jigs one right and one left. They are easy to make out of scrap wood and no extra cost of special router bits and no gaps in your work.

Use hardboard about 8×11, band-saw a cutout in the hardboard for the bit to engage the leg side. Attach a riser the width of the jib on the underside, at one end, to create the 5 or 3 or any other degree you want. Attach a 3/4×2 x 8 board on the under-side for clamping. Be sure the leg has been trued-up on both sides then just set the jig on the flat, clamp with a c-clamp and start routing.

There is plenty of room for a 5 degree flat if you are using 2" stock. This will leave more than enough for a finished 3/4 leg.

I can give better details on the jig if anyone is interested.

Rockingchairguy Bill Kappel


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## bkap (Sep 29, 2006)

The 5 degree flat on the back legs can be made with the table saw. It is quite simple, just make a 5 degree jig that fits to the fence and you have an easy flat maker for the back legs. You can also change the 5 to 3 or whatever degree you want as you very your style of rocker.

Also I have made a leg joint cutter that registers off one side of the seat instead of both sides. The old way of rabbiting from both sides of the seat board introduces the possibility of error. If you seat board does not have parallel sides you are in for more work. With my bit the top and bottom rabbits are made with one tool and one pass. This bit also has a matching female bit for a perfect fit. You don't have to measure the seat tongue to make the groove for the legs. The tongue is always the same no matter the thickness of the seat board.

Bill Kappel


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