# How would you build this bookshelf?



## TomVonMom (Apr 10, 2016)

I'm building this floor to ceiling bookcase 3.5×2.4meters (sorry about the metrics scale guys, I'm Swedish)








(This is just a sketch, not a blueprint. ignore the details, like how the red dividers popping up on the top shelf)

*I'm planning on:
*
1. Building the outer box first, and dadoing slots for the shelves (blue) into the two sides.
2. Dadoing slots for the upright dividers (red) into the shelves and top/bottom.

*Is that the best way to do this? *Or is there away that will not require so much routing (and dust)?

Another approach I'm thinking about is skipping the router procedure in 2. Instead I will butt joint the dividers (red) using dowels.

One thing that isn't visible in the pict above is the back. There will be a back in 1/2" MDF. I'm thinking the shelves (blue) will be nailed or screwed to the back. No dados. If it helps, I'm thinking of using 3/4" MDF for everything except the back.

Thanks for the help!

Tom, woodn00b


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## ppg677 (Jan 21, 2016)

I'm kind of a n00b too, but that's how I'd build it. I suspect, structurally, the dowels would work just as good. But I don't think you'd save any time with dowels. Yes, you would save saw dust


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## devann (Jan 11, 2011)

I would make the top as one piece. The vertical members of the unit I would ether dado for shelf standards and use the clips to place the shelves at desired locations or drill holes in the vertical members to accept shelf pins to hold the shelves at the desired locations. Ether way would allow you to adjust for shelf placement should you decide you need to. The standards will be the more expensive of the two options, and more sawdust.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Hi Tom
Welcome to Ljs
I would use sliding dovetails for all of the joinery and I would have the bottom and top boards go all the way across .
An alternative is to make each unit separately and join them together,of course that would mean you will have doubled up vertical members in the middle,if you would like to hide that you can make a face frame to go over the front to make it all more uniform looking.


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## ChrisK (Dec 18, 2009)

I would use dados and glue. One piece top and bottom, use 5mm deep dados.

Jim, have you done dovetails in MDF? I would think the tails would be tough to slide in the slots? Machined MDF is not all that smooth.

This will be on heavy beast.


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## jdmaher (May 4, 2011)

What will be stored in this? Books tightly or loosely packed, magazines, curios, all of the above?

If everything will NOT be too tightly packed, you could use cleats to hold the vertical dividers. While the shelves are still a whole sheet, glue and nail 1/2" square cleats 3/4" apart at the divider locations, on both sides. And you'll have to do the same for the top and bottom carcase pieces, but only on one side. THEN cut out the shelves, with cleats already attached.

Then you can just cut out the vertical members to slide between the cleats, snug fit.

You lose a little shelf space, but you maybe won't need every square cm.

BTW, you could use the same cleats on the vertical sides of the carcase to hold up the ends of shelves. You won't need all that much support at the ends because of all the vertical support at the interior of the case.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Thanks Chris
I did miss that point that he's using MDF In that case I agree with Darrell's approach.


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## Yonak (Mar 27, 2014)

Tom, you might consider making individual boxes out of 3/8" or 1/2" ply (or 1/2" MDF) and stacking them, then covering the edges like in the left and right sides of this bookcase : http://lumberjocks.com/projects/176554


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## devann (Jan 11, 2011)

My this tread doubled in a short time. I just looked at the bargain table saw.

Good morning Jim. I'd still go for the adjustable pins, but I like Jim's idea about the styles & rails. I'd double the center four vertical pieces and use six styles and just two rails, one top one bottom.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

Be careful that you don't weaken the structure with aligning dados on both sides of the uprights. For instance, typical 1/4" deep dados would only leave you with 1/4" thick upright at the joints. That is too thin for structural integrity. I would use a 1/8" deep dado for alignment purposes, and rely on glue for strength.


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

Over the last 18 years working in the carpenter shop at our school district I've built a ton of cubbies of all different size for class rooms and library's.

After trying many ways of building cubbies I've settled on this and it pretty much the way you are headed.

A picture is worth a 1000 words. If you have question …..ask

Use a table saw and dado blade to cut dados. 
Use a brad nailer with 1inch nails and toe nail the shelves in place. Forget the glue it just pushes out when you slide shelf into the dado.

I make my dados 1/8 deep.

It does not weaken the unit to dado at the same place on both sides.


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## TomVonMom (Apr 10, 2016)

THANKS FOR ALL THE FEEDBACK!



> What will be stored in this? Books tightly or loosely packed, magazines, curios, all of the above?


All of the above. Max load per cube is 40 pounds. 15 pounds on average.
What I am most scared of is shelf sagging.


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## TomVonMom (Apr 10, 2016)

THANKS FOR ALL THE REPLIES!
Meanwhile, I've got some interesting feedback from a Swedish friend. He suggests that in order minimize the "number of moving parts", I should make the dividers go all the way from top to bottom. 
And instead of dadoing each junction, do this interlock instead.









Comments?


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## TomVonMom (Apr 10, 2016)

> A picture is worth a 1000 words. If you have question …..ask


Impressive CV. Toe nailing it sounds crude, but is probably smart. A real pragmatic at work, I give you that. In 18 years I hope to get to that point.
But tell me, how do you cover up the nails?


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## TomVonMom (Apr 10, 2016)

> This will be on heavy beast.
> - ChrisK


You are right! 500 ibs. Oops!
Eeh…. just lifting the frame with the back will weigh over 200.


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

I assume that you're going to paint since you're sing MDF

Some paint and caulking going a long way it hide brad hole (not nail holes).

Don't over think this. They are simple cubbies.










Actually you're only toe nailing one side. the other side you butt nail through the dado into the shelf before sliding in the next shelf.

Hope that make sense.


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## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

This is going floor to ceiling?
Are you building it in place or in the same room? How are you going to put the back on?
How are you going to stand it up? Are you going to build it away room the wall standing up then slide it into place?
Are you putting crown around it?
3.5 meters tall = 137.79 inches Are you buying 12' (3.65m)material?
A lot of questions before I could give you helpful answers. 
I do like the interlocking idea, depending on the variables.
I did some wine shelving in the late 70's using that method.


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## BLarge (Aug 29, 2011)

Domino the heck out of it


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## diverlloyd (Apr 25, 2013)

I built my entertainment center like your Swedish buddy recommended. And I clamped all my pieces together and gang cut them. If I remember right I had the whole thing cut and dry fit in a hour or two. But all of the options are good I just built another one with all pocket hole joints so I could see how strong they are under heavy loads it has had finishing issues( polyshades never dried and that makes a pain in the butt to fix) so I can't recommend that way yet until it's tested. But welcome to lumberjocks and enjoy the time spent here.


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## TomVonMom (Apr 10, 2016)

> This is going floor to ceiling?


Yes. ceiling is 3.53, this is 3.49. My plan was to build the box and then rise it. 4 cm will be enough according Pythagoras.


> Are you building it in place or in the same room? How are you going to put the back on?
> How are you going to stand it up? Are you going to build it away room the wall standing up then slide it into place?


Same room, yes it will be messy. My initial plan was to glue/nail the frame together. Then nail the back to the frame before the glue dries. Then lift the shelf up and slide it to its right position before starting to assemble the interior.
But I realized yesterday, just the frame and the back will weigh over 100kg! So I thing I may have to reconsider the construction…



> Are you putting crown around it?


Yes, the 4 cm gap will be covered by a very sublime crown.


> 3.5 meters tall = 137.79 inches Are you buying 12 (3.65m)material?


No, I will join together 2.4m MDFs. I can get 3.5m long ones. But one board cost $250, so… nah!


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## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

Here's the idea I have been thinking.
Because you would have to put 2 pcs together for the sides and all the uprights, 
I would split the cubbies wherever you could to get the best yield for material so that you don't have to mend all of the inner uprights. This might mean changing the size of the cubbies above a little? Since there is not a center upright it looks like you have to do the back in 3 pcs. (3 for the bottom section and 3 for the top section)

So, I would splice together the sides (as you were going to). I would build the frame, but I would add the two uprights in the middle, like the picture, and the one horizontal shelf. This will give you a place to attach the backs to. I would dado the uprights into the bottom shelf and do a butt joint at the top.(of the middle shelf)
(See Picture) I think you could still stand it up and move it into position, get some help. 
After you stand it up you could attach the rest of the lower uprights, screwing them in from the top. Then you could attach the upper uprights sliding them into dados, this would cover the top screws.

I like the idea of interlocking all the horizontal shelves and sliding them into a dado on the sides after all the uprights are installed. Or dado the sides and uprights and slide in individual shelves for each cubby.

I hope you can get the drift of what I am trying to explain.










Build Frame like this and stand up.


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## TomVonMom (Apr 10, 2016)

> Here s the idea I have been thinking.
> Because you would have to put 2 pcs together for the sides and all the uprights,
> I would split the cubbies wherever you could to get the best yield for material so that you don t have to mend all of the inner uprights. This might mean changing the size of the cubbies above a little? Since there is not a center upright it looks like you have to do the back in 3 pcs. (3 for the bottom section and 3 for the top section)


Thanks for the input jbay. Are you talking about building the case in two parts, like this?


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## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

That is an idea! 
but what I was saying is to keep the outside frame whole. (I think as you had intended)
Put the 1 horizontal shelf in, and the 2 uprights in, while your building it on the ground. This way you have something to attach your backs to.


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