# What marking pencils do you use?



## boboswin (May 23, 2007)

ON one of the most recent conversations here regarding units of measure that could, should,and can be used to construct things from wood, I would like to point out that regardless of what measure you use your no better than the mark you make transferring information from your rulers to your project.

Some folks use scribing knives for very accurate lines but I have found that often removing the scribe lines can be problematic.
I think most of us use a pencil one form or another plot around depending on the project.

I've been having quite a time with the pencils in my shop for the last two or three months and decided last week to buy higher-quality pencil sharpener to help me get a finer point for marking.
When I set it up to use it and grabbed a few pencils out my drawer i was surprised to find that many of the pencils I was having trouble with were made up some wood other than cedar and that the lead was not centered in the body of the pencils.
Here's a picture of what I mean:

From wood stuff 2010

Those rough furry pencils with the offset leads are from China. 
The yellow one was purchased from a legitimate office supply store and the white one purchased from a dollar store.
The dark green one was purchased from Lee tools and is made in the United States.
The Lee Valley pencil will take a nice sharp point dead center in the wood stock and maintain it for several markings without incident. 
The yellow pencil is virtually useless as any side pressure on the lead snaps it right off. In addition, you need to take a knife and cut back the wood on the side of the lead before you can use it. As my time is limited in the shop my preferences to purchase better quality with fewer problems.
What do you folks use for pencils and why?


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## hObOmOnk (Feb 6, 2007)

I use mechanicals from Lee Valley.


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## roman (Sep 28, 2007)

I laughed when I read your post. Experience is a tough teacher,....test first, lesson later.

I would add that almost any pencil is better then no pencil at all, but I have had the cheap stuff with lead off center and even the slightest pressure causes one to resharpen it so many times that you might as well just stand in front of the pencil sharpener until the thing is gone…..........you might think and just throw it out,but Murphys law would state that some one will pick it from the garbage, place it on a bench just to frustrate you one more time….....

I buy pencils from an office supply, their generic name brand. Staples.


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## Tikka (May 14, 2007)

For really accurate cuts, left and right handed marking knives.

For general marking (not too critical) your standard mechanical propelling pencils (0.3, 0.5 & 0.7 mm HB leads).

For rough cutting a large oval carpenters pencil, chalk or crayon.

Various coloured artist pencils for contrast on woods such as Walnut and Mahogany.

If none of the above are available, or within 1 step distance, whatever I have to hand (nail, screw, thumb nail, chisel, saw)


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## Woodripper (Mar 22, 2010)

I am with Hobomonk and Tony, mechanical for me. No sharpening req but I do have silver pencils for darker materials.


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## roman (Sep 28, 2007)

I agree with Tony…........a descending preference


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## bobdurnell (Sep 24, 2007)

Bob #2 Glad you asked the question. I know that everyone has their favorite. Mine is a Dixon-Ticonderoga No.1. Hard to find I odered mine from Staples. Yes they need to be sharped alot but I found a secret weapon while teaching. The previous teacher had an old wood knob Berol (I think) replaced in the classroom and kept the old one on a shelf. I recovered it and it is the best sharpener I have used.


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## AaronK (Nov 30, 2008)

i do mechanical too. 0.5mm for "fine" lines and 0.7mm for more coarse lines. I find that they work ok, although I would prefer something a *hair* narrower for the fine and something a bit thicker for the coarse. but like i said, they work well enough that I feel better about them than having to sharpen wooden pencils.

I tried using a marking knife, but found that most of the time i dont need it. My work style (as a hobbyist) has developed around pencil markings. I might see using a marking knife for inlays or really super fine stuff, but for regular joinery my pencils have been great.


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## cutmantom (Feb 2, 2010)

I use cheap mech. pencils that are I think meant to replace wooden pencils for students. .9mm works much better than .5mm, I have seen a .9mm and thought about trying it


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## BOB67CAM (Dec 28, 2009)

i use the cheap 10 pack of bic mechanicals, they seem to always have ver nicely centered lead ..lol


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## mtkate (Apr 18, 2009)

Honestly, I use whatever I can find. Somehow I am continually losing my pencils…. but I do have one of those flat engineer's pencils.


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## davidmicraig (Nov 21, 2009)

I think marking is one of those things that you adjust with experience. I used to use the carpenter pencils when I first started. I found accuracy to be a real problem. I moved to mechanical pencils and am much happier with the cuts, but I think I will eventually move to marking knives.

Good question to post,

David


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## buffalo689 (Mar 2, 2010)

I can't find my pencil , AGAIN..


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## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

Hi Bob 2 (cause you got here late);

I wrote an article in my woodworking tips site, covering this very topic:

http://www.prowoodworkingtips.com/Marking_Tools.html

I still use the thicker leaded Mechanical pencils. They make a fine line, yet will work on rough lumber all day long, without me breaking the point off.

For fine stuff, a knife is what I prefer.

Lee


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## Rick Dennington (Aug 27, 2009)

Greetings all:... I use a mechanical drafting pencil that I've had since 1970 when I took mechanical and arcitecture drafting. Back then you used big huge drafting tables and built-in T squares. All of my drafting supplies was made by Post… best on the market at the time, and Starret rulers, which I still have, also. All were made in the U.S. by Americans. They have stood the test of time, and still going strong….....
Has anybody seen my extra lead… I can't find it nowhere…...... where's my sharpener?


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## Kristoffer (Aug 5, 2009)

Lately I've been using DIXON Ticonderoga pencils because the box said "The Best Pencil in the World" and I thought that that was funny, so I had to to buy 'em. Funny stuff aside, they've worked great for marking and the eraser actually works without smudging. 
When I run out of them I think that I'm going to try the mechanical pencils, but I don't really remember having much luck with them when I was younger. But why would I fix what isn't broken? Maybe I'll just stick with the Ticonderoga pencils.


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

I switched, quickly, from the 2B to 4H drafting pencils, and then to mechanical pencils with #4 lead, replacement.

But … when I'm trying to get "precision joinery," I've been using my Stanley utility knife, and … today … FINALLY ordered my first dual-bevel marking knife (eight bucks).

Though it's REALLY tough for my eyes to find fine cut lines … I have to stop making joinery decisions about what's most convenient for ME, and make them-instead-based on what gives the best results.

Chasing pencil lines-I think-has been a primary source of my slop, in recent projects.

It seems to me, too, that for many cuts (router cuts, dadoes, etc.), the initial "score" with a marking knife can leave a MUCH cleaner cut, with greatly reduced tear-out.

And I'll take THAT all day long ;-)

I may get a decent scratch awl, too, and file the point into a knife edge. Also seems easy to use and accurate.


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## shredkeenan (Dec 7, 2008)

To me it looks like you weren't holding the pencil perpendicular to the sharpener on the first two and that's why the lead is not at the center of the point.

I use a 0.9mm mechanical pencil or marking knife.


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## Sawdust4Blood (Feb 16, 2010)

If I need accuracy, it's a Japanese marking knife. Otherwise, I use oval carpenters' pencils but sharpened with a knife and/or sandpaper to a chisel tip rather than round point then I draw a fine line as though the pencil were a knife blade. This allows me to keep a finer line without the tip always breaking.


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## Tangle (Jul 21, 2007)

I buy my pencils at art an store, Boise Blue in Boise, Idaho. for general marking on wood or leather I use 4H. I think they are Ebersol-Faber. For dark leather I use white art pencils also for Walnut. If it's really critical, I use an Exacto knife


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## cranbrook2 (May 28, 2006)

I use nothing but the best


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

I use seconds pencils. Let me explane. A person on the web lived in a town where a poencil factory was. He would buy all of their outcasts. Maybe color, chipping etc. He would sell them very cheap. a gross for a couple of bucks. He also had carpenter pencils etc.

The factory has gone out of business and he has run out of pencils so I'm living off my supply. Some may say "John and Sally Wedding Day" But I don't care. All american made pencils with nice cedar smell when sharpened.


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## bigike (May 25, 2009)

i use mech. pencils if i do use a regular #2 i sharpen it then flatten two sides so it makes the tip like a blade to get a better line almost like a marking knife.


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## stevenhsieh (Jan 8, 2010)

I use Staedtler Lumograph drawing pencils.
*HB *is what I use.


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## Chelios (Jan 2, 2010)

I never use any special pencil just whatever I manage to find, crayons, pens, sharpies….I don't use the tape measure either. I got a lot more accurate when I stopped measuring and marking so much.


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## Mogebier (Feb 4, 2010)

I close my eyes and rely on The Force.


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## TwangyOne (Apr 21, 2009)

I used to be a sketch artist and draftsman in school, so I got into these types of "pencils". Technically they are called lead holders or technical pencils. They are nice because they sharpen to a pretty fine point and you don't have to worry about them breaking as easily as your typical #2's or mechanical pencils. Plus there's a sharpener in the rear of the pencil so it's always handy. They run a little high in price for a pencil, but I've used the same one for years now (don't know how I haven't lost it yet) and haven't even made it through half a box of lead. Staples has them and other places with drafting supplies should carry them also.


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## bayspt (Apr 4, 2008)

California Republic Golden Bear H Picked up a tube of 50 for 1.99 at a local discount store (like big lots) After reading this I went in and stole one of my sons ticonderogas and I have to say it's ok too. Hand work or delicate stuff I use a marking knife. I have a right hand I bought a wood craft and a double bevel I made from an old steak knife.


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## Gregn (Mar 26, 2010)

I finally got rid of most of my thin pencils. I sharpen the hell out of them just to justify using them up. I tried mechanical pencils but I keep breaking the lead when I write on paper, let alone on wood. I started using those big fat pencils without erasers that you buy for kindergarten kids to use. I do use carpenter pencils but don't buy them either.


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## rob2 (Nov 27, 2007)

I used to work as a Engineer and did my own drafting. I used 2mm lead, mechanical lead holders and a lead pointer. Still use them and they work great. You can get as fine a point as you need or you can use softer lead if that is what you need.

I like the Mas Staedtler Mechanical Drafting Lead holders and rotary pointer. I use 2h and 4h for final layout. For sketching or design go, a regular 2h or even a carpenters pencil. If I am beginning to do Jointery then I use a marking Knife or marking gauge. Cuts are hard to erase.

http://www.dataprint.com/Store/p-14102-staedtler-mars-technical-2mm-lead-holder-with-clip-780c.aspx



http://www.dataprint.com/Store/c-93-2-mm-leads.aspx


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## richgreer (Dec 25, 2009)

Fine precise cuts - - a marking knife 
Rough stuff - - a square carpenter's pencil.

Tried a fine point mechanical pencil once - didn't like it. The lead breaks too easily.


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## buckeyedudes (Nov 1, 2009)

I use the little 3" shorties with an eraser that you get free at the golf course.

They work just fine and it keeps my golf bag under control!


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## JJohnston (May 22, 2009)

I use whatever wooden pencils I can grab at grand openings, health and wellness fairs, job fairs, etc. If I need a really fine line, I'll sharpen it, then scribble on a piece of scrap at a low angle until I get a chisel-like bevel on one side. I like mechanical pencils for writing, and I use them at work, but for marking, the leads are still too thick for precise marking, and too thin for the bevel method I use, and too thin and weak for rough work.


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## mtkate (Apr 18, 2009)

So funny - because of this post I paid attention today and sharped a few of my pencils. The one that came out the best (like the third in Bob's picture) was a regular HB type that lsays on it "Happy Birthday". I have no clue where I got it. But it did a great job!


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## pommy (Apr 17, 2008)

I use WURTH and crown knife


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## JayPique (May 25, 2009)

I measure with a micrometer, mark with a crayon, and cut with an axe.


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## davidmicraig (Nov 21, 2009)

Jay, that is really quite the brilliant comment. That really should be a signature. I love it.


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## buffalo689 (Mar 2, 2010)

"I measure with a micrometer, mark with a crayon, and cut with an axe." 
BEAUTIFUL..


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## Builder_Bob (Jan 9, 2010)

0.5 mm mechanical pencils bescause they fit in the holes of my Incra T-RULE12 Precision Marking T-Rule


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