# When is it safe to remove stickers from stacked air dried wood?



## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

I have a non heated / cooled metal storage shed sitting under a red oak shade tree the shed is off of the ground with a wood floor and slight air flow through it, I have built a wood rack to store 12" to 24" in length x 1" thick boards cut from logs that I currently have stickered for several months, the situation I have is I've ran out of room for some freshly cut mesquite and Elm, I have tested the already stickered boards at a moisture content of between 12 and 16% is it safe to go ahead and remove the stickers from these boards, stacking them on top of each other in the same shed only in a different area of the shed to allow room for the newly stickered boards on the rack?

Thanks


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## Randy_ATX (Sep 18, 2011)

The part that catches my eye is that your previous batch have only been stickered for several months. I wouldn't think that would be enough for 1" thick lumber if it was green wood when sliced up.

Might be a good, legitimate excuse for a shed addition, Randy. 

I will store some mesquite for you. ;-)


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## Quanter50 (Feb 11, 2012)

I would keep them stickered until your ready to use them, regardless of moisture content.


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## Dusty56 (Apr 20, 2008)

I would have to wonder if the new moisture you'll be introducing wouldn't get absorbed by the drier boards, being as they are in the same shed with only "slight air flow through it". Also , the 12-16% MC would change on the inner boards of the pile seeing as there is no longer any air movement between them. Chances are the outer boards would start to cup as well because they would be in contact with the inner boards on one face , and exposed to air on the other face. Just my thoughts on the matter : )


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## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

I agree with Quanter50. Leave the stick in until you need to use them. I generally go one year before I use them, too…..........Jim


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## longgone (May 5, 2009)

Several months isn't that long for air drying and might cause them to warp if the stickers are removed. If it is possible keep them snickered longer. Better safe than sorry


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## shawnmasterson (Jan 24, 2013)

a year an inch is my rule of thumb. I have some poplar was tight stacked after 5 years of being sticked. these boards are fine, and the humidity is around 65% on the shop. I probably won't use any until the humidity levels off. I do try to keep my material in the rough till I am ready to use it.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

One thing I failed to mention was that these trees, logs I cut from were already dead anywhere between 2 to 5 years but I'm going to take everyone advise and do my best to keep them all stickered, Randy, the shed I am using was the addition. LOL I'm just a wood gloat and it just keeps falling into my lap, I'm saving a bundle in over head. LOL


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

Another thing I can do, I have them stickered with 1" stickers I'll mill the stickers down to 3/4" that should help a little.

Thanks everyone


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## joeyinsouthaustin (Sep 22, 2012)

There are several posts about sticking out doors. I have been forced to do it several times over the years. You don't need a new shed, just the right tarps.


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## Nomad62 (Apr 20, 2010)

Once below 20% or so you should be able to dead stack them without concern for mold or mildew, but it does give a better hiding place for bugs if that is a concern.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

I hope you can figure it out. Gr8 question/s.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

I prefer to let green lumber air dry outside. Stack and sticker the new lumber outside on some level skids. Once it reaches around 15%, bring it in to dry further. You will need to keep the lumber stickered until kiln dried. The only lumber I dead stack is kiln dried lumber.

Good luck


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## WDHLT15 (Aug 15, 2011)

Nomad is right on. If you are sure that the moisture content is below 20%, you are fine to dead stack it. Takes up half the space, too.

The 1" rule of thumb for air drying wood is not accurate. It depends on your climate. In areas where there are good drying conditions year round like in the South where there is little ice and snow, 1" thick lumber dries faster than one year down to 12 -16% moisture content. I also use box fans to circulate air for some easier to dry species like walnut, cherry, maple, and poplar. These can dry to 15% here in Georgia in 120 days. 1" red oak takes me 6 months on average and white oak takes 8 months. I do not use fans on oak as you cannot dry it too fast or it will case-harden and honeycomb. This drying takes place under a 25' x 60' shed open on all sides with side height of 10' to the roof. Here is a view of some of the stacks under the shed.










Here is another pic of a stack of maple, and you can see a simple box fan on the far left of the picture.










I realize that not everyone has an air drying shed like this one, but as long as you can assure good air flow to take away evaporating water, you can do a very good job air drying wood. It also helps to understand the drying characteristics of the various species and, if you dry a lot of wood, it is critical to have a good moisture meter. It is never a good idea to try and dry wood in an enclosed building. Better to do it outside and build a roof over it.


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## 8iowa (Feb 7, 2008)

According to woodworking author Nick Engler in "Woodworking wisdom" wood stickered in stacks outside looses it's "free water in one to four months. Later, the wood eventually looses the "bound water" in the cells of the wood reaching a moisture content somewhat in accordance with the prevailing local relative humidity.

I stack my wood outside, with stickers, under a tarp, for at least a year. Then I go thru the stack, discarding the boards that have obvious defects. The good lumber then goes up into the loft of my "Workshop in the Woods". I sticker the stacks in the loft and let them dry for another year, or at least thru a winter, when the moisture content in the air is very low.

Then It's a good idea to take any boards selected for a project down to the rack in my shop, and let it sit there for at least a several days in order to allow the wood to react to the humidity in the shop. It seems that if I ignore this "shop drying" time I'm usually sorry.


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## joeyinsouthaustin (Sep 22, 2012)

I have a stack of cedar drying right now, sticked, and with a fan, in an AC environment. This is a good thread to hop on, as cedar is a wood I have the least experience with working. (from a milling and working perspective… can't tell you how many decks and fences I have built  Should I be concerned about case hardening, or other problems drying it to fast. My instincts say no, but any input would be appreciated.

edit: 1×4 3/4 boards that were sold air dry… but from an outdoor yard, and with recent rains here were off the scale on my meter.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

I've managed to make changes in the storage shed to allow more room for the remainder of all woods to be stickered.

Living in a rural neighborhood with only so much backyard space I'm limited to what I am able to do in regards to storing wood, with a 50' x 110' lot, a 12' x 19' workshop sitting the the middle of the back yard with a red oak tree in between my workshop and the 10' x 12' storage shed then an 12' x 5' lean-to on the back side of the workshop, another rubber-made 4' x 6' storage for yard tools and a 10' wide full length of house deck leaves me with no more room.


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## joeyinsouthaustin (Sep 22, 2012)

Well *NOT* getting more wood is *NOT* an option  I suggest you sticker on top of the shed


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## HerbC (Jul 28, 2010)

JoeyinSouthAustin,

Ceder is one of the best behaving woods when it comes to drying. It dries quick and has few drying defects (perhaps to make up for the tendency to have many other defects in the lumber such as rot and bark inclusions…

Good Luck!

Be Careful!

Herb


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## WDHLT15 (Aug 15, 2011)

I agree with Herb. Cedar will dry before you turn your back. It is about the easiest wood to dry. Mark a samole piece and take measurements every few days and lets see how fast it dries back down.


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## joeyinsouthaustin (Sep 22, 2012)

FYI Cedars all ready down to %17 from off the scale in 4 days in the ac. and lying straight. Any predictions for tomoro?


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

Put it to work?


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## joeyinsouthaustin (Sep 22, 2012)

I am going for about 12 or10. Making shutters, and I need to plane, and shape. Drier would be better IMO. But at the rate it is going that could well be tomorrow. I will post.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

I must have missed somewhere what the measurement was before you starting trying them.


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## joeyinsouthaustin (Sep 22, 2012)

it was off my scale.. so above %20.. or in other words.. sopping wet. has come down to a range of 8 up to 18 in some boards. Boards sitting dry out in my shop are at 8, so I added a second fan, and I am gonna start milling tomoro!


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## joeyinsouthaustin (Sep 22, 2012)

Well here they are. All told it took 7 days to get the cedar from sopping wet to mill able. Mind you those are the frames, the will receive a trim, like a window, and mullion at the center mull. They install up in the windows of a large cupola on a back porch/outdoor living area.










And here was the process.. sicked, box fans, and AC. Must say the office was quite aromatic there for awhile. And free of any signs of moths.


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## joeyinsouthaustin (Sep 22, 2012)

Oh.yeah! And to complete the loop for those who are still watching this thread.. this is how I knew what was what.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

Very nice Joey, I have the General MM1E pined meter from Home Depot and so far it's been flawless.


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## WDHLT15 (Aug 15, 2011)

Joey,

You did a great job. I am impressed!


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