# How to Build a Chevalet From Scratch



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

*How hard can it be?*

*Update: See also Chevy II, The Canadian Cousin.* and *Building Some Chevalets, a Class Action*


*I first saw a chevalet* in Sorrento, Italy about ten or eleven years ago. I was very impressed with the machine and the work being done by the master marqueters there but never dreamed that I would ever find myself building one. Well, retirement has it's ways of taking you places you never thought you'd be going. After a working lifetime of more or less "creative woodworking" who knew I'd be this interested in persuing it in retirement? 
Fast forward to a couple of years ago when I became interested in inlays and marquetry. First I built a few pieces of furniture exploring the use of router bushing inlay sets for something more akin to marquetry.










*When I realized* the limitations of that method I moved on to double bevel marquetry with a scroll saw.










*Then I happened* once again upon the idea of the chevalet and wondered if it might enable me to attain the fine cuts that seemed to be evading me on the scroll saw. After looking at the few photos and one short video that I was able to find on the internet and reading the few snippets I found here and there I decided to go for it.
How hard could it be?

*There is a lot of mystique* about old tools like this and it is very easy to think of them as diabolically clever creations that you should not attempt without some sort of plans or specialized training. The fact is that it is a jig that keeps a reciprocating blade in a single plane. It may have taken a great mind to conceive of the wheel, but once it was invented any fool could build one. So I decided to be the fool.

*The chevalet* can be broken down into two basic and completely separate devices. The first is a heavy, rigid wooden structure that the operator sits on and that supports the working parts of the saw. The second is the moving parts of the saw itself. The dimensions of the first part are more about the worker than the work. I chose to make mine as adjustable as possible to be sure it would fit my body size. Since this was a shot in the dark I chose to go on the cheap and use recycled wood from an old beam that I had lying around.

*Here are some photos* of the frame structure. This is the tenoned vertical post.










*This is the main* base piece where your toes go.









*This is a dry fit* of the basic frame elements.










*And this one* shows the arm's first fitting.










*Between the operator *and the saw is a clamp mechanism to hold the veneer packet while it is cut. It is foot operated and again is not very dimension critical.










*The frame part* is rounded out by the arm and carriage base (my terms, I don't know the real names) that support the working parts of the saw.









The big frame parts are about 3 1/2" x 4 1/2" and most parts are dimensioned more to suit your size than anything else. You can see that I left lots of room to raise and lower the arm and filled the space with graduated shims and two very shallow wedges to allow adjustment of as little as 1/8" up or down. Also the design allows for the arm to be shortened or lengthened to accommodate saw frames up to 30" deep.

Next time I'll get into the trickier second part which is of course the moving saw mechanism.

Thanks for looking in.

Ask all the questions you like, I'm retired.

Paul


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## Broglea (Dec 9, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *How hard can it be?*
> 
> *Update: See also Chevy II, The Canadian Cousin.* and *Building Some Chevalets, a Class Action*
> 
> ...


And to think of all the time I've spent walking the aisles of Rockler, Woodcraft, Sears and HF and have never seen one of these! This is very interesting. I can't wait to see it in action.

And as always Paul, Thanks for sharing with us.


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## driftwoodhunter (Jan 17, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *How hard can it be?*
> 
> *Update: See also Chevy II, The Canadian Cousin.* and *Building Some Chevalets, a Class Action*
> 
> ...


Thank you for starting this blog series, it will be fascinating!


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## BertFlores58 (May 26, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *How hard can it be?*
> 
> *Update: See also Chevy II, The Canadian Cousin.* and *Building Some Chevalets, a Class Action*
> 
> ...


Paul, Thanks a lot for this.. How nice to know that those times in the past can solve what problems we are facing today. I like to make one that is small and portable…


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## larryw (Feb 10, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *How hard can it be?*
> 
> *Update: See also Chevy II, The Canadian Cousin.* and *Building Some Chevalets, a Class Action*
> 
> ...


Hey Paul, Thanks for posting this. I think a lot of us LJer's will be building one of these. I have to be honest with you, I had never heard of one of these machines, before seeing some of your remarks on the subject. I had always assumed that all early marquetry was cut using some type of fret saw.


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## Dandog (Oct 21, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *How hard can it be?*
> 
> *Update: See also Chevy II, The Canadian Cousin.* and *Building Some Chevalets, a Class Action*
> 
> ...


Thanks for putting in the time. That thing looks seriously solid. what are some of the advantages over a scroll saw?what did you mean about fine Cut's? Keep them coming Paul.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *How hard can it be?*
> 
> *Update: See also Chevy II, The Canadian Cousin.* and *Building Some Chevalets, a Class Action*
> 
> ...


Interesting blog.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *How hard can it be?*
> 
> *Update: See also Chevy II, The Canadian Cousin.* and *Building Some Chevalets, a Class Action*
> 
> ...


*Dandog*, To me the advantage over a scroll saw is that I have absolute control over the blade speed. I can go so slow that I can count the teeth as they cut (sound) and I can stop at a very exact spot and make a 170 degree turn on the spot and leave a very sharp pointed cut. I was never able to accomplish this with my scroll saw. I realize that there are people on this site who can but it would take me a lot of practice to get that good and with the chevalet I could do it first time out. Doing that on very small pieces is what I meant by "fine cuts".

It was also about $500 cheaper than my scroll saw.


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## Schwieb (Dec 3, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *How hard can it be?*
> 
> *Update: See also Chevy II, The Canadian Cousin.* and *Building Some Chevalets, a Class Action*
> 
> ...


Paul,
I thought I had made a post before but I guess I didn't actually post it. This is fascinating to me, I commend you for what you are doing here. I've had a longtime interest in marquetry and am building a vacuum press as we speak. I'm having a real problem visualizing how you hold a large sheet at an angle relative to the saw blade to do the double bevel cuts. I made my own saw with a deep bow and have angled platform that I use to support the sheet. This works pretty good but maintaining the angle is a challenge. I'm betting this becomes more clear as you proceed.

Great work as always,


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *How hard can it be?*
> 
> *Update: See also Chevy II, The Canadian Cousin.* and *Building Some Chevalets, a Class Action*
> 
> ...


*Ken* There are at least three different ways to saw cut marquetry. Two of them require the saw to be at exactly 90 degrees to the material. I'm not sure, but I think that double bevel is the most recent and the chevalet may predate it. You can adjust the angle of attack, but I believe that these adjustments are primarily to aid in squaring the blade to the work. I'm going to try some double bevel today, so I'll keep you posted.

As for controlling the sheet, that's what the foot clamp is for.


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## MNedman (Dec 1, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *How hard can it be?*
> 
> *Update: See also Chevy II, The Canadian Cousin.* and *Building Some Chevalets, a Class Action*
> 
> ...


Paul thank you, thank you, thank you! As I have been developing my own skill, I have been thinking about building one . I have actually seriously considered ordering the chevalet hardware kit from Patrick Edwards, but honestly the thought of spending $500 for it turned me off. I have the plans from Pierre Ramond's book Marquetry and between them and your blog I'm sure I could build one. I'm really looking forward to part 2, and am very interested in the type of linear bearings you used and how you manufactured the blade clamps.

Mat


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *How hard can it be?*
> 
> *Update: See also Chevy II, The Canadian Cousin.* and *Building Some Chevalets, a Class Action*
> 
> ...


hey didn´t you changed some pictures ….. LOL

thank you anyway for making this serie and as usual a pleasurre to read 
its up and favorred know for later use if you don´t mind 

have a great weekend 
Dennis


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *How hard can it be?*
> 
> *Update: See also Chevy II, The Canadian Cousin.* and *Building Some Chevalets, a Class Action*
> 
> ...


Yes Dennis, MsDebbieP PM'd me about how to turn the links into photos… kind of a long story.

Thanks.


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## BigTiny (Jun 29, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *How hard can it be?*
> 
> *Update: See also Chevy II, The Canadian Cousin.* and *Building Some Chevalets, a Class Action*
> 
> ...


Hi Paul.

Here's an idea for you. Make a spring attachment to redraw the blade after a stroke and a foot pedal to make the stroke for a cut. This would allow *both* hands free to manipulate the packet. Obviously, the pedal would be for the other foot to the one used for the clamping. Using this in addition to the more traditional method would give more flexibility to your methods of working.

A friend of mine over on Tommy MacDonald's site attends the 
Boule school in Paris and has kindly sent me some hints for marquetry. Attached is a picture of my very first attempt at a marquetry project, using the "Louis cubes" pattern with the help of my friend Ronaldo.









It's a table top for an occasional table.

Paul (not you, another Paul)


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## DennisLeeZongker (Jul 25, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *How hard can it be?*
> 
> *Update: See also Chevy II, The Canadian Cousin.* and *Building Some Chevalets, a Class Action*
> 
> ...


Hi Paul, Great looking Donkey! I always wanted to make one of them, but have never found the time.

Have you ever read "Marquetry" by Pierre Ramond? I think I've read that book 50 time are more. The book has a blue print of a Marquetry Donkey in the last pages.

It looks like your having a fun retirement! I have about 20 years to go.

So do you find it easier to cut on a Donkey, versus a scroll saw?


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *How hard can it be?*
> 
> *Update: See also Chevy II, The Canadian Cousin.* and *Building Some Chevalets, a Class Action*
> 
> ...


*Thanks Dennis*, No, I haven't been able to locate a copy other than to see them online at really high prices. I think you're saying that it's worth the price. Is that right?

Yes, many times more control (for me anyway). Check out my "test drive" blog for photos of the cuts I was able to get first time , with no practice. I also have to make some of the available adjustments to better suit my body size. I'm glad I built them in.

Thanks again Dennis.


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## sandhill (Aug 28, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *How hard can it be?*
> 
> *Update: See also Chevy II, The Canadian Cousin.* and *Building Some Chevalets, a Class Action*
> 
> ...


Hi Paul, I came across your Blog after posting a question about where to find some Marquetry classes. I was told of your building a *chevalet* I enrolled at ASFM in San Diego which teaches on a *"chevalet de marqueterie"* He also sells the plans and parts for $550.00 which I am thinking may be a waist of money seeing what you did it does not look that hard and after using one it should be a piece of cake. He boasts that his design can accommodate 7" blades. I am taking the classes that W. Patrick Edwards offers at his studio. the same technique that is taught at *Ecole Boulle*, in Paris.


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## Willies1 (Aug 17, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *How hard can it be?*
> 
> *Update: See also Chevy II, The Canadian Cousin.* and *Building Some Chevalets, a Class Action*
> 
> ...


I see your in Green Valley. I used to live next to a place called Green Valley but it was in Illinois. Any chance that is where you are? My parents still live just up the road a few miles.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *How hard can it be?*
> 
> *Update: See also Chevy II, The Canadian Cousin.* and *Building Some Chevalets, a Class Action*
> 
> ...


I winter in Green Valley *AZ*. My home is on Vancouver Island B.C. in Canada.


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## bigike (May 25, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *How hard can it be?*
> 
> *Update: See also Chevy II, The Canadian Cousin.* and *Building Some Chevalets, a Class Action*
> 
> ...


this seems to be a very interesting tool, thanks for the post/blog!


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## bluplanet (Feb 10, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *How hard can it be?*
> 
> *Update: See also Chevy II, The Canadian Cousin.* and *Building Some Chevalets, a Class Action*
> 
> ...


Wow. I read this and I'm amazed but I still don't know exactly what a chevalet is or how it works.
I've figured out it's a lot closer in function to my Delta scroll saw than it is to my grandfather's '67 Chevrolet Impala, but it doesn't look much like either one. Usually, I can look at a tool and have lots of ideas about how I'd like to use it, but I'm stumped here. Guess I should read it all again. I probably missed something. 
Also, I confess I don't know much about marquetry.


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## apprentice (Jun 27, 2012)

shipwright said:


> *How hard can it be?*
> 
> *Update: See also Chevy II, The Canadian Cousin.* and *Building Some Chevalets, a Class Action*
> 
> ...


Hi Paul

I would like to thank you for making it possible for me to have a go at making this tool, my first marquetry tools was a frame saw jig which I built from an existing variant which I saw on the Hands DVD collection of traditional crafts in Ireland, where three Brothers Roberts and traditional cabinet makers was showing his apprentice the ropes as we say here in Yorkshire.

Thanks to you generourocity I am currently making the marquetry donkey to your guidance and have a few ideas of my own where I will be using Lignum Vitae bearings instead of brass or bronze as I do on my spinning wheels.

Keep the faith.

Davy.


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## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *How hard can it be?*
> 
> *Update: See also Chevy II, The Canadian Cousin.* and *Building Some Chevalets, a Class Action*
> 
> ...


Paul, your work is absolutely amazing.

helluvawreck
https://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *How hard can it be?*
> 
> *Update: See also Chevy II, The Canadian Cousin.* and *Building Some Chevalets, a Class Action*
> 
> ...


Thank you.

*Davy*, If I can help with anything, let me know. Just drop me a private message.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

* Blade Clamps, Sliding Mechanism and Adjusters*

*IMPORTANT NOTE: Almost everything on this page has been improved and updated in my second build , Chevy II.*

*I am leaving this blog intact as a record but if you are building from these blogs please read the updates.*

.............................................................................................................

*At the end of this blog series* I will post some measurements for those who want to build one and also some more photo details but for now I will go on to an overview of how I built the "works" of the chevalet.

*This is my version* of a blade clamping mechanism. I have limited metal working tools and capacity here in my AZ. shop so I kept it simple. I started with a piece of 3/8" square bar and a piece of 3/8" square tubing. I drilled and tapped the square tubing for a thumb screw (8-32 I think it was), then over-drilled a recess hole in the bar to keep the pieces together when the screw was loosened. Then by grinding away a little of the bar opposite from the screw, I made room for the blade. Next up I ground the square bar roughly round on the other end by hand on a bench grinder and threaded it for a 3/8" wing nut on one piece and a barrel nut on the other. The barrel nut threads into the handle knob.










*Two square holes* in the saw frame and you have a cheap simple clamp that works. I did beef up the saw frame arms later as they were too flexible.










*On to the sliding mechanism*. This is a shot of the adjustment tightener. It's just a piece of 3/8" rod with it's ends threaded, run through the center of the carriage base. The dado along the length of the bottom of the base locates it on the support post squarely. Square is very important on these parts if you are going to be able to square the blade to the work.










*This is the basic carriage* (again, my term) *setup*. The round bar made alignment a problem and will be refined later. The vertical ends each have a slot for the adjustment rod. The one on the front of the machine is vertical and the one on the back is horizontal. This was an early mock-up using 3/8" steel pipe for bushings.
The small wooden parts clamped to the bar are called "tumblers". These are probably the most critical parts and are usually machined metal parts, but I'm not a machinist, I'm a wood guy
.









*This is the whole* sliding mechanism mocked up with steel bar and pipe from HD. The saw frame is clamped firmly to the shaft and the shaft slides through the tubes. All you have to do to make the chevalet work is to insure perfect alignment of the two bearings. My, that was easy to say! Doing it may prove a little more of a challenge. Once tuned and with a little wax added, this setup actually worked reasonably well. You can also see the vertical adjustment slot in this photo.










*When I received my linear motion bushings* and precision shaft in the mail things really started to improve. As you assemble this piece and try the sliding motion it becomes very obvious that no wiggle at all is allowable. I started with a clamped together mock up and as I decided on correct positions and glued pieces up, one at a time, I could feel the improvement in sliding smoothness each time a clamp was replaced by glue. I always wondered why these were so massively constructed to do such dainty work. I think this is the answer.

The second last step in achieving the perfect alignment I needed was to make the bushings self aligning. I did this by over-drilling the mounting holes almost to the center but not quite.










*Then when I assembled *them I shimmed the clamps with washers so as to leave very little pressure on the bushings, allowing them to align with the shaft. The final clamping pressure was actually so light that I used narrow strips of double sided carpet tape to retain the bearings in the tumblers. It works, they align perfectly.
Try not to notice the cracks in the tumblers. ..over tension. The final step in wiggle elimination was to fill the square holes in the tumblers, where they fit over the square tubing with epoxy and reassemble them, square them to the tubing. and let the epoxy set for a rigid fit. I did wax the tubing first so that I can still disassemble it.










*Here's what the final *setup looks like. It works just fine and I probably won't change it because I want to work with the chevalet, not on it. That said it shows signs of being a prototype and could be done, knowing what I know now, a fair bit more tidily. The round rod didn't give enough alignment control so I slipped a piece of square tubing over it and locked them together the same way as the blade clamps above.










*There you go*, you too can build a chevalet and have lots of fun making cool stuff with it.

Next entry, as I said above, I'll try to give you some measurements and tell you what I might do differently if / when I build another one.

Comments and questions welcome.

Paul


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## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

shipwright said:


> * Blade Clamps, Sliding Mechanism and Adjusters*
> 
> *IMPORTANT NOTE: Almost everything on this page has been improved and updated in my second build , Chevy II.*
> 
> ...


Another enjoyable blog Paul. I like to think that the time will come when I can tackle inlay work. I'm looking forward to seeing what new wonders you can now create!


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## rivergirl (Aug 18, 2010)

shipwright said:


> * Blade Clamps, Sliding Mechanism and Adjusters*
> 
> *IMPORTANT NOTE: Almost everything on this page has been improved and updated in my second build , Chevy II.*
> 
> ...


What is this for and what would you do with it? Sorry- I'm clueless. Nice pics though.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> * Blade Clamps, Sliding Mechanism and Adjusters*
> 
> *IMPORTANT NOTE: Almost everything on this page has been improved and updated in my second build , Chevy II.*
> 
> ...


*rivergirl* See this blog: http://lumberjocks.com/shipwright/blog/series/3746
It should explain what it does.

Thanks


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## rivergirl (Aug 18, 2010)

shipwright said:


> * Blade Clamps, Sliding Mechanism and Adjusters*
> 
> *IMPORTANT NOTE: Almost everything on this page has been improved and updated in my second build , Chevy II.*
> 
> ...


I will check it out. Thanks!


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## HorstPeter (Aug 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> * Blade Clamps, Sliding Mechanism and Adjusters*
> 
> *IMPORTANT NOTE: Almost everything on this page has been improved and updated in my second build , Chevy II.*
> 
> ...


A big thank you for this. Maybe I'll dare build myself one too sometime. Although right now I wouldn't know where to put it without causing me more trouble than joy I'm afraid.


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

shipwright said:


> * Blade Clamps, Sliding Mechanism and Adjusters*
> 
> *IMPORTANT NOTE: Almost everything on this page has been improved and updated in my second build , Chevy II.*
> 
> ...


thank´s for a great picture book 
I have no trouble following the build but I have a Question to it 
since my Brain isn´t the sharpest in the drawer
why is there two axels cuoldn´t one bee enoff to slide on 
and is there an advance in it to have two vers. one

take care
Dennis


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> * Blade Clamps, Sliding Mechanism and Adjusters*
> 
> *IMPORTANT NOTE: Almost everything on this page has been improved and updated in my second build , Chevy II.*
> 
> ...


Thanks everyone.

*Dennis*, I imagine that there were advances and developments when it was first introduced but this is pretty much the standard design that I've seen and represents what they have looked like for about 200 years. The two shafts joined by the tumblers is, one can only presume to afford you the ability to move the saw a little bit laterally (left or right). In use it becomes obvious that this is a great advantage especially in sawing curves.

*Horst*, By removing the bottom two bolts it can be stored in a little less space, but I agree it's a bit bigger than a scroll saw.

Thanks again.


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## BigTiny (Jun 29, 2010)

shipwright said:


> * Blade Clamps, Sliding Mechanism and Adjusters*
> 
> *IMPORTANT NOTE: Almost everything on this page has been improved and updated in my second build , Chevy II.*
> 
> ...


Hi Paul.

Nice to see folks today keeping the traditional methods and tools alive.

Is this based on the ones in the Boule school in Paris? It looks much similar.

Paul (not you, the other one)


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

shipwright said:


> * Blade Clamps, Sliding Mechanism and Adjusters*
> 
> *IMPORTANT NOTE: Almost everything on this page has been improved and updated in my second build , Chevy II.*
> 
> ...


Thank´s , the curve explanation I can buy  makes alot of sence 
when you don´t need to move the piece all the time and it just hit when 
I write this that it goes for the straight sawing too …. thank´s paul for being a patience teacher 

take care
Dennis


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> * Blade Clamps, Sliding Mechanism and Adjusters*
> 
> *IMPORTANT NOTE: Almost everything on this page has been improved and updated in my second build , Chevy II.*
> 
> ...


*Paul* (not me, the other one), Yes it's based on photos and write ups I found online and they are the original parisian Chevalet de marqueterie that is used in the boulle school. My main photographic aid was Yannick Chastang's site here: http://www.yannickchastang.com/tools/Marquetry+donkey/ plus the short grainy video on Patrick edwards' blog here: http://wpatrickedwards.blogspot.com/2010/09/chevalet-video.html. They both studied there I believe and Patrick's machine in the video is a genuine antique.


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## MNedman (Dec 1, 2007)

shipwright said:


> * Blade Clamps, Sliding Mechanism and Adjusters*
> 
> *IMPORTANT NOTE: Almost everything on this page has been improved and updated in my second build , Chevy II.*
> 
> ...


Paul, I also believe that Patrick Edwards chevalet is pretty much taken straight from the plans shown in Pierre Ramond's book Marquetry. Your's is very similar, and certainly looks like it cuts equally well.

I'm not sure I quite understand how drilling the holes for the linear bearings almost to the center of the tumblers helped make the bearings more self aligning? I would have thought that you wanted a good solid contact between the tumblers and the bearing with no room for play whatsoever. It looks like what you found though was that you needed only slight pressure on the bearings to allow them to slide easier?

Could you please provide some details on the bearings and precision shaft you used?

Mat


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> * Blade Clamps, Sliding Mechanism and Adjusters*
> 
> *IMPORTANT NOTE: Almost everything on this page has been improved and updated in my second build , Chevy II.*
> 
> ...


I'll look up the bearings in the morning. The holes almost to the middle- It allows the bearings to tip a little in the holes while still being wiggle free at the center. It's because without accurate machine work it's pretty well impossible to get the actual holes lined up perfectly. Am I explaining it? It's not about pressure on the bushings.


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## Dez (Mar 28, 2007)

shipwright said:


> * Blade Clamps, Sliding Mechanism and Adjusters*
> 
> *IMPORTANT NOTE: Almost everything on this page has been improved and updated in my second build , Chevy II.*
> 
> ...


Very Cool! Much appreciated!


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## BigTiny (Jun 29, 2010)

shipwright said:


> * Blade Clamps, Sliding Mechanism and Adjusters*
> 
> *IMPORTANT NOTE: Almost everything on this page has been improved and updated in my second build , Chevy II.*
> 
> ...


As I mentioned elsewhere, Ronaldo over on www.thomasjmacdonald.com is a student at l'echole de Boulle in Paris. He would be tickled pink to see this chevalet of yours. Maybe you could drop in there some time and post it for the guys there?

Paul (the Winnipeg one)


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> * Blade Clamps, Sliding Mechanism and Adjusters*
> 
> *IMPORTANT NOTE: Almost everything on this page has been improved and updated in my second build , Chevy II.*
> 
> ...


I just signed up Paul. I'll check the site out tomorrow. I'm on two forums now… that may be enough…. or maybe too many.


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## BritBoxmaker (Feb 1, 2010)

shipwright said:


> * Blade Clamps, Sliding Mechanism and Adjusters*
> 
> *IMPORTANT NOTE: Almost everything on this page has been improved and updated in my second build , Chevy II.*
> 
> ...


If I ever built one of these I'd have to call it Maurice. I can never resist a pun. Even my compressor is called Edward, Edward the compressor.


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## MapleStreetDad (Aug 14, 2011)

shipwright said:


> * Blade Clamps, Sliding Mechanism and Adjusters*
> 
> *IMPORTANT NOTE: Almost everything on this page has been improved and updated in my second build , Chevy II.*
> 
> ...


How did you attach the top bar of the carriage to the horizontal and vertical adjusters? On your original one, it looks like a hollow square tube. On the second one it looks a bit different (possibly solid?). But neither sets of pictures shows how it is attached. The top bar must be able to rotate on it's axis, but still allow the saw frame to remain square. I am considering building a similar donkey, but a tabletop model.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> * Blade Clamps, Sliding Mechanism and Adjusters*
> 
> *IMPORTANT NOTE: Almost everything on this page has been improved and updated in my second build , Chevy II.*
> 
> ...


The top bar is a round solid bar inside a square hollow bar, locked together with a screw in the center. Does that answer your question?


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## MapleStreetDad (Aug 14, 2011)

shipwright said:


> * Blade Clamps, Sliding Mechanism and Adjusters*
> 
> *IMPORTANT NOTE: Almost everything on this page has been improved and updated in my second build , Chevy II.*
> 
> ...


How does the round solid bar attach to the wooden supports on the outside? Is it just glued into the holes, or screwed in somehow?


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> * Blade Clamps, Sliding Mechanism and Adjusters*
> 
> *IMPORTANT NOTE: Almost everything on this page has been improved and updated in my second build , Chevy II.*
> 
> ...


It's loose in the holes so that it can freely rotate. It is trapped between the vertical pieces and there are washers between the ends of the square tube and the wood blocks. I'll send you a PM with more details.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

* Some Chevalet Modifications A New Friend*

*There are two stories* here that can't be separated from each other so I'll tell them together. One is about the first modifications to the Chevalet after using it for several hours. The other is about making the acquaintance of the premier marquetry and chevalet master on this side of the ocean.

As our story begins; I was having a bit of an ethical struggle with myself about offering my (however humble) Sketch Up chevalet plans publicly for free when there is someone out there selling them. Just because I'm retired and don't need to make money from this is no reason that I should be allowed to undermine someone's business. (IMHO)

So I decided to email Patrick Edwards and ask him if he would have objections. He replied almost immediately and told me that I could make them as public as I wished with his blessing. His goal is to make North Americans more aware of the chevalet and it's unique abilities and he sees my project as a way for DIYers to get into the art at a more affordable cost. He also commented on the photo link I sent him and gave me tips on how to improve my design. What an impressive man.

I have since spoken to him on the phone when he again had time for me and offered more advice. I will definitely be scheduling a week at his school next winter when I'm back down here (AZ). All he asked was that I mention his* American School of French Marquetry* as a place where those who choose to build from my plans might learn how to get the most out of their chevalets. Did I mention I was impressed?

*On to the modifications.* From the beginning I had planned to add a seat on the bench, both because the bench is a little narrow and because I wanted to make the chevalet as adjustable as possible. I built the bench at the lowest that I thought might work and planned on adding the seat to come to the height I thought would be right for me. The option is still there to shim the seat even more.

*This is not a cheap dog house*. It's my Q&D dust collector for the seat shaping.










*Here's the seat* shaped and with it's first coat of BLO. When I resawed the piece to glue up the blank for this I found a spike knot that was crying to be the defining shape of the back of the seat. .. Well I like it anyway.










*This is the chevalet* with the new seat in place. It raises the sitting position by 1 3/4" so the main arm is also raised 1 3/4" by moving shims and the new clamp jaws that Patrick suggested are also the same amount higher.










*On Patrick's recommendation* I made the new clamp jaws thinner, with a much smaller birds mouth and sanded away part of the moving jaw so that only the area immediately around the notch is is contact with the veneer package.









*If you look closely* at this one you should see that the jaws only touch near the notch.










*The Sketch Up plans* are now finished. I will post them as a forum topic under Tools and Accessories. If you want to build one, please contact me and I will be happy to help you size it to suit your body. Not many will want to set theirs up at my exact final dimensions. I'm 6'4" tall. I also have lots of photos and will share them as well.

As always, comments critiques and questions are encouraged.

Paul


----------



## Tomoose (Mar 1, 2009)

shipwright said:


> * Some Chevalet Modifications A New Friend*
> 
> *There are two stories* here that can't be separated from each other so I'll tell them together. One is about the first modifications to the Chevalet after using it for several hours. The other is about making the acquaintance of the premier marquetry and chevalet master on this side of the ocean.
> 
> ...


Well, Shipwright, that thing looks great. I checked this post out because I had no idea what a Chevalet was. It looks like you did one heck of a job putting this together. The seat looks good to me too. Now I have to go do some Google work because I still don't know…

thanks for posting,
Tom


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## Dez (Mar 28, 2007)

shipwright said:


> * Some Chevalet Modifications A New Friend*
> 
> *There are two stories* here that can't be separated from each other so I'll tell them together. One is about the first modifications to the Chevalet after using it for several hours. The other is about making the acquaintance of the premier marquetry and chevalet master on this side of the ocean.
> 
> ...


Awesome! Thanks for posting all this stuff!


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## Bearpie (Feb 19, 2010)

shipwright said:


> * Some Chevalet Modifications A New Friend*
> 
> *There are two stories* here that can't be separated from each other so I'll tell them together. One is about the first modifications to the Chevalet after using it for several hours. The other is about making the acquaintance of the premier marquetry and chevalet master on this side of the ocean.
> 
> ...


Ahhh! That seat is more like what I was expecting to see the first time I saw your project! Looks comfy and I think one could sit on it for hours! This looks like a very worthwhile project to undertake for anyone interested in marquetry.

Erwin, Jacksonville, FL


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## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

shipwright said:


> * Some Chevalet Modifications A New Friend*
> 
> *There are two stories* here that can't be separated from each other so I'll tell them together. One is about the first modifications to the Chevalet after using it for several hours. The other is about making the acquaintance of the premier marquetry and chevalet master on this side of the ocean.
> 
> ...


Paul,

This is such a great project! You are being so thorough. It's a pity the internet wasn't around 40 years ago when I could have had a few more years to work on such things. My to-do list is too long to start still another project, but if I live to be 100 and get all my projects completed, I'd sure love to make one of these and try marquetry.

Thanks for sharing all your expertise so freely! It really is fascinating.

L/W


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## BigTiny (Jun 29, 2010)

shipwright said:


> * Some Chevalet Modifications A New Friend*
> 
> *There are two stories* here that can't be separated from each other so I'll tell them together. One is about the first modifications to the Chevalet after using it for several hours. The other is about making the acquaintance of the premier marquetry and chevalet master on this side of the ocean.
> 
> ...


Looks much more comfortable than the previous seat did.

I wonder how you would do beveled cuts on this, or even *if* you can? You know, for the interlocking pieces.

Paul


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> * Some Chevalet Modifications A New Friend*
> 
> *There are two stories* here that can't be separated from each other so I'll tell them together. One is about the first modifications to the Chevalet after using it for several hours. The other is about making the acquaintance of the premier marquetry and chevalet master on this side of the ocean.
> 
> ...


*Paul*, If you mean double bevel cutting, I asked Patrick about that. As I had previously suspected, It is not generally meant to be used for double bevel cutting but rather for boulle and classic styles only. What is interesting is that on rare occasions it is done by employing angled clamp jaws.


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## BigTiny (Jun 29, 2010)

shipwright said:


> * Some Chevalet Modifications A New Friend*
> 
> *There are two stories* here that can't be separated from each other so I'll tell them together. One is about the first modifications to the Chevalet after using it for several hours. The other is about making the acquaintance of the premier marquetry and chevalet master on this side of the ocean.
> 
> ...


Hi Paul.

I sort of figured it was that, or a couple of slanted cauls attached to the jaws.

I'm a rank newby to marquetry and lean towards the parquetry end of the craft rather than the "birds and flowerrs" things, I love Boulle's work, but for the quality and artistry rather than as something I'd want to make or to own. Irish Celtic knot work is a favorite of my wife's, so guess what my next project or six will be? (grin)

Paul
the one in Winnipeg


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

shipwright said:


> * Some Chevalet Modifications A New Friend*
> 
> *There are two stories* here that can't be separated from each other so I'll tell them together. One is about the first modifications to the Chevalet after using it for several hours. The other is about making the acquaintance of the premier marquetry and chevalet master on this side of the ocean.
> 
> ...


thank´s for sharing Paul

takle care
Dennis


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## MNedman (Dec 1, 2007)

shipwright said:


> * Some Chevalet Modifications A New Friend*
> 
> *There are two stories* here that can't be separated from each other so I'll tell them together. One is about the first modifications to the Chevalet after using it for several hours. The other is about making the acquaintance of the premier marquetry and chevalet master on this side of the ocean.
> 
> ...


That seat looks much more comfortable Paul. Great to hear that Patrick Edwards was so encouraging and helpful. From reading his blog you can't help but think he is a class act!

Looking forward to seeing some of the marquetry you are going to cut with this Paul!

Mat


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## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

shipwright said:


> * Some Chevalet Modifications A New Friend*
> 
> *There are two stories* here that can't be separated from each other so I'll tell them together. One is about the first modifications to the Chevalet after using it for several hours. The other is about making the acquaintance of the premier marquetry and chevalet master on this side of the ocean.
> 
> ...


Paul,

It takes a very considerate and thoughtful person to think about asking Patrick Edwards if he would object to you posting your plans for free. I agree with Mat that Patrick showed the kind of person he is by being so cordial and helpful.

There are many woodworkers we have met through LumberJocks that show that woodworkers are a step above! Thanks for sharing your story, (as well as your plans).

L/W


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## BigTiny (Jun 29, 2010)

shipwright said:


> * Some Chevalet Modifications A New Friend*
> 
> *There are two stories* here that can't be separated from each other so I'll tell them together. One is about the first modifications to the Chevalet after using it for several hours. The other is about making the acquaintance of the premier marquetry and chevalet master on this side of the ocean.
> 
> ...


Hi Paul.

I agree with the rest of the group. Patrick sounds like a real class act, like so many wood workers I've met on the wood sites I take part in. If they are a representation of the average, I can see why the Lord chose one to foster His Son.

Paul


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

*Another Little Modification*

*This is a bit* of the fine tuning I knew awaited me once I started getting into the chevalet. My original (re-invention of the wheel) blade clamps worked very well, at least I thought they did until I did the "keyhole test" for checking the accuracy of your setup of the blade at exactly 90 degrees to the work. This square setup is essential to success in the boulle or classic cutting methods. The keyhole test is the standard test for accuracy. You cut down into a thickish piece of material, do a circle and cut back out near the entry point. I'f you're perfectly set up the cutout will slide out either way. If you're off square in the horizontal, the stem of the keyhole will hang you up in one direction. If you're off square on the vertical, the circle will hold you up.

*Here are my keyholes*. #1 was held up by the circle. The stem was fine. In #2 I adjusted the vertical adjuster up about 1/16"+ and the piece came out both ways. The rest are just experiments with how the adjusters affected the keyhole cutout.










*So much for the good news*. My chevalet is very close to true right out of the chute. There is a serious problem that arises however. The way I originally designed the blade clamp allows the blade to be clamped against the vertical surface of the square bar anywhere on it's 3/8" face leaving a large opportunity to have a very off square (vertical) blade after removing / re-setting it.


















*Patrick Edwards helped me* out on this one and I re-designed my clamp accordingly. This is the new setup. Now when the blade is fitted into the clamp it is on the same side as the screw and can rest on the screw insuring that it occupies the same spot in the clamp every time. The best way to learn is to make mistakes, discover them and fix them. You live and learn.










I have one more modification that I need to do that I know of. It relates to the hinged side of the veneer clamping jaws. I'll post it when I get it done. For now, I think tomorrow may be a golf day.

Later

Paul


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## BigTiny (Jun 29, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Another Little Modification*
> 
> *This is a bit* of the fine tuning I knew awaited me once I started getting into the chevalet. My original (re-invention of the wheel) blade clamps worked very well, at least I thought they did until I did the "keyhole test" for checking the accuracy of your setup of the blade at exactly 90 degrees to the work. This square setup is essential to success in the boulle or classic cutting methods. The keyhole test is the standard test for accuracy. You cut down into a thickish piece of material, do a circle and cut back out near the entry point. I'f you're perfectly set up the cutout will slide out either way. If you're off square in the horizontal, the stem of the keyhole will hang you up in one direction. If you're off square on the vertical, the circle will hold you up.
> 
> ...


Golf?

I never met a little white ball I was that mad at!

(grin)


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Another Little Modification*
> 
> *This is a bit* of the fine tuning I knew awaited me once I started getting into the chevalet. My original (re-invention of the wheel) blade clamps worked very well, at least I thought they did until I did the "keyhole test" for checking the accuracy of your setup of the blade at exactly 90 degrees to the work. This square setup is essential to success in the boulle or classic cutting methods. The keyhole test is the standard test for accuracy. You cut down into a thickish piece of material, do a circle and cut back out near the entry point. I'f you're perfectly set up the cutout will slide out either way. If you're off square in the horizontal, the stem of the keyhole will hang you up in one direction. If you're off square on the vertical, the circle will hold you up.
> 
> ...


I'm not sure if this has been asked. I have tried to read all your posts on this. So I'll ask anyway.
What type and length of blade does is use? 
When I say type, I mean does it use coping saw blades? Scrollsaw blades?
If it uses scroll saw blades (what I'm most familiar with), couldn't you theoretically use any type of scroll saw blades? For example, spirals? The reason I'm thinking this is that my blade of choice is spirals. I've been looking at this as a potential for building something with much greater throat depth than I have now though.


----------



## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Another Little Modification*
> 
> *This is a bit* of the fine tuning I knew awaited me once I started getting into the chevalet. My original (re-invention of the wheel) blade clamps worked very well, at least I thought they did until I did the "keyhole test" for checking the accuracy of your setup of the blade at exactly 90 degrees to the work. This square setup is essential to success in the boulle or classic cutting methods. The keyhole test is the standard test for accuracy. You cut down into a thickish piece of material, do a circle and cut back out near the entry point. I'f you're perfectly set up the cutout will slide out either way. If you're off square in the horizontal, the stem of the keyhole will hang you up in one direction. If you're off square on the vertical, the circle will hold you up.
> 
> ...


Hey Paul,
Good for you for testing. And thanks for sharing a solution.

I am amazed that you were able to cut that MDF with such precision. I am impressed.

Steve


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Another Little Modification*
> 
> *This is a bit* of the fine tuning I knew awaited me once I started getting into the chevalet. My original (re-invention of the wheel) blade clamps worked very well, at least I thought they did until I did the "keyhole test" for checking the accuracy of your setup of the blade at exactly 90 degrees to the work. This square setup is essential to success in the boulle or classic cutting methods. The keyhole test is the standard test for accuracy. You cut down into a thickish piece of material, do a circle and cut back out near the entry point. I'f you're perfectly set up the cutout will slide out either way. If you're off square in the horizontal, the stem of the keyhole will hang you up in one direction. If you're off square on the vertical, the circle will hold you up.
> 
> ...


thank´s for the update´s you make everytime you find things to bee finetuned 
I´m looking forward to the next toturial

good luck with hitting the sandgrave tomorrow they say that´s were the fun is (grin)

take care
Dennis


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Another Little Modification*
> 
> *This is a bit* of the fine tuning I knew awaited me once I started getting into the chevalet. My original (re-invention of the wheel) blade clamps worked very well, at least I thought they did until I did the "keyhole test" for checking the accuracy of your setup of the blade at exactly 90 degrees to the work. This square setup is essential to success in the boulle or classic cutting methods. The keyhole test is the standard test for accuracy. You cut down into a thickish piece of material, do a circle and cut back out near the entry point. I'f you're perfectly set up the cutout will slide out either way. If you're off square in the horizontal, the stem of the keyhole will hang you up in one direction. If you're off square on the vertical, the circle will hold you up.
> 
> ...


*William*, The blades are essentially scroll saw blades, but very fine ones. As I understand it with scroll saw blades the larger the number, the larger the blade and with jewelers' blades the opposite. By that definition it is actually jewelers' blades (2/0 to be exact) that I am using but for some work as small as 6/0 are used.The most important thing in fine marquetry, especially boulle style where the kerf is usually seen, is to leave the thinnest kerf possible.

As for building this type of tool as a larger scroll saw for normal scroll work, I see no reason that it might not work. If I really wanted to build a saw for large scroll work though I'd look at building an "overhead jig saw" per the description in Pierre Ramond's "Marquetry". It is ceiling mounted above your table, sprung with a bow or leaf spring and has a throat as big as the distance to the nearest wall. It's probably easier to build too.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Another Little Modification*
> 
> *This is a bit* of the fine tuning I knew awaited me once I started getting into the chevalet. My original (re-invention of the wheel) blade clamps worked very well, at least I thought they did until I did the "keyhole test" for checking the accuracy of your setup of the blade at exactly 90 degrees to the work. This square setup is essential to success in the boulle or classic cutting methods. The keyhole test is the standard test for accuracy. You cut down into a thickish piece of material, do a circle and cut back out near the entry point. I'f you're perfectly set up the cutout will slide out either way. If you're off square in the horizontal, the stem of the keyhole will hang you up in one direction. If you're off square on the vertical, the circle will hold you up.
> 
> ...


Thanks Shipwright. I will be checking into that. I've got ideas for a much larger throat scroll saw. The largest I've seen on the market is around 30" I think, and it is way out of my price range.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Another Little Modification*
> 
> *This is a bit* of the fine tuning I knew awaited me once I started getting into the chevalet. My original (re-invention of the wheel) blade clamps worked very well, at least I thought they did until I did the "keyhole test" for checking the accuracy of your setup of the blade at exactly 90 degrees to the work. This square setup is essential to success in the boulle or classic cutting methods. The keyhole test is the standard test for accuracy. You cut down into a thickish piece of material, do a circle and cut back out near the entry point. I'f you're perfectly set up the cutout will slide out either way. If you're off square in the horizontal, the stem of the keyhole will hang you up in one direction. If you're off square on the vertical, the circle will hold you up.
> 
> ...


I've been trying to research online about overhead jig saws and Pierre Ramond. Do you know of anywhere I can see a photo of what you're talking about so I can possible get an idea if its an idea I may want to persue?


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Another Little Modification*
> 
> *This is a bit* of the fine tuning I knew awaited me once I started getting into the chevalet. My original (re-invention of the wheel) blade clamps worked very well, at least I thought they did until I did the "keyhole test" for checking the accuracy of your setup of the blade at exactly 90 degrees to the work. This square setup is essential to success in the boulle or classic cutting methods. The keyhole test is the standard test for accuracy. You cut down into a thickish piece of material, do a circle and cut back out near the entry point. I'f you're perfectly set up the cutout will slide out either way. If you're off square in the horizontal, the stem of the keyhole will hang you up in one direction. If you're off square on the vertical, the circle will hold you up.
> 
> ...


It's in his book but that's out of print and getting expensive. I'll see what I can find for you.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck (Aug 14, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Another Little Modification*
> 
> *This is a bit* of the fine tuning I knew awaited me once I started getting into the chevalet. My original (re-invention of the wheel) blade clamps worked very well, at least I thought they did until I did the "keyhole test" for checking the accuracy of your setup of the blade at exactly 90 degrees to the work. This square setup is essential to success in the boulle or classic cutting methods. The keyhole test is the standard test for accuracy. You cut down into a thickish piece of material, do a circle and cut back out near the entry point. I'f you're perfectly set up the cutout will slide out either way. If you're off square in the horizontal, the stem of the keyhole will hang you up in one direction. If you're off square on the vertical, the circle will hold you up.
> 
> ...


Thanks. 
And as for the book, from what I've found so far, it isn't getting expensive, it already is. If I could find out more about it though and decided to build one, the price of the book would be well worth it, and I think I'd find other aspects of the book of great use as well. If I ever get the time in between my other projects, marquetry is one of those many things I want to try my hand at. 
I will also keep researching it as I get the time. I thought maybe the local library may have a copy of the book. We have an amazing collection of arts and crafts books at the local library here.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

*Finishing Up, Refining the Prototype*

*When I started to build the chevalet* from a few photos on the internet, I wasn't at all sure it would amount to anything at all so in many places corners were cut to quickly achieve a prototype that would serve to test the critical parts and determine whether more detailed work was warranted. The resulting saw, although quite functional and in it's own right a very usable tool, was a little rough around the edges and needed some refinement before I would be truly happy with it.

I have now completed most of the details that make this project more of a chevalet and less of a prototype chevalet …...... and here they are.

*The first few* have been touched on already but just to have it all in one place I'll briefly allude to them again here. They were the seat, the modified clamp jaws, and the new blade clamp design.




























*Next up was to redesign* the tumblers to be more stable and easier to align. The key here is to make parallel dadoes by referencing the same side of the piece for both cuts and then shaping the tumblers from there. This would have been nice to do on a router table with a 1/2" straight bit and a 5/8" core box bit. I could not, however, find a 5/8" core box bit in Tucson and as my time in Az. is growing short, I did them with a dado set. It works as well but doesn't look as nice. The piece in the first photo makes all the parts. Other than that I think the pictures are self explanatory.





































*This one shows* the new tumblers in place with the new, more robust saw frame.










*The saw frame* support has been made adjustable.










*And an adjustment* has been added to control the angle of the movable jaw to more precisely clamp varying thicknesses of veneer packets. The wing nuts are loosened and the shim is replaced to change the angle.










*Lastly the front appearance* was improved by adding a bit of marquetry, cut by the chevalet of course, to hide the nasty chipped out surface of the clamp front. The motif chosen was a Rising Phoenix to commemorate the discarded fir beam from which the chevalet frame was built and , just a little tip of the hat to my winter home in Az. The chosen bit of clip art was deliberately picked for it's many sharp points. It was cut in boulle marquetry style so there is no "waste side" and the sharp tips were all cut by turning on the spot and cutting back. I could never do this on my DeWalt scroll saw.




























*Time for a couple of finished shots* out in the Az. sun.



















*Now that it's all finished*, I'll be leaving for home on Vancouver Island next Wednesday and since Alaska Airlines isn't interested in letting me take it as carry on, I'll just have to build another one when I get home. I'm all signed up for Patrick Edwards' American School of French Marquetry course next February and I want to get lots of chevalet time in before I go.

Bye for now.

Paul


----------



## bhog (Jan 13, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Finishing Up, Refining the Prototype*
> 
> *When I started to build the chevalet* from a few photos on the internet, I wasn't at all sure it would amount to anything at all so in many places corners were cut to quickly achieve a prototype that would serve to test the critical parts and determine whether more detailed work was warranted. The resulting saw, although quite functional and in it's own right a very usable tool, was a little rough around the edges and needed some refinement before I would be truly happy with it.
> 
> ...


awesome


----------



## BarbS (Mar 20, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Finishing Up, Refining the Prototype*
> 
> *When I started to build the chevalet* from a few photos on the internet, I wasn't at all sure it would amount to anything at all so in many places corners were cut to quickly achieve a prototype that would serve to test the critical parts and determine whether more detailed work was warranted. The resulting saw, although quite functional and in it's own right a very usable tool, was a little rough around the edges and needed some refinement before I would be truly happy with it.
> 
> ...


That is indeed, awesome, and you're going to study under Edwards! That is very exciting. I've heard he is a great and personable teacher. Congrats on a fine build, but then, you are accustomed to those.


----------



## sandhill (Aug 28, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Finishing Up, Refining the Prototype*
> 
> *When I started to build the chevalet* from a few photos on the internet, I wasn't at all sure it would amount to anything at all so in many places corners were cut to quickly achieve a prototype that would serve to test the critical parts and determine whether more detailed work was warranted. The resulting saw, although quite functional and in it's own right a very usable tool, was a little rough around the edges and needed some refinement before I would be truly happy with it.
> 
> ...


I can't seem to get time to work on mine. Time is a big issue for me right now so I will get done what I can as I can do it. Nice job and have a good trip.


----------



## LittlePaw (Dec 21, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Finishing Up, Refining the Prototype*
> 
> *When I started to build the chevalet* from a few photos on the internet, I wasn't at all sure it would amount to anything at all so in many places corners were cut to quickly achieve a prototype that would serve to test the critical parts and determine whether more detailed work was warranted. The resulting saw, although quite functional and in it's own right a very usable tool, was a little rough around the edges and needed some refinement before I would be truly happy with it.
> 
> ...


Not only is it a functional tool, you've made it into a great piece of carpentry art! Your attention to detail really show through on this. I am sure you will do very well in marquetry. I wish I have that kind of patience, Paul.


----------



## tdv (Dec 29, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Finishing Up, Refining the Prototype*
> 
> *When I started to build the chevalet* from a few photos on the internet, I wasn't at all sure it would amount to anything at all so in many places corners were cut to quickly achieve a prototype that would serve to test the critical parts and determine whether more detailed work was warranted. The resulting saw, although quite functional and in it's own right a very usable tool, was a little rough around the edges and needed some refinement before I would be truly happy with it.
> 
> ...


Paul you do beatiful work my friend, the marquetry panel is gilding the lily I'd be proud to stick that on a box let alone a bench/tool
Best
Trevor


----------



## Dez (Mar 28, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Finishing Up, Refining the Prototype*
> 
> *When I started to build the chevalet* from a few photos on the internet, I wasn't at all sure it would amount to anything at all so in many places corners were cut to quickly achieve a prototype that would serve to test the critical parts and determine whether more detailed work was warranted. The resulting saw, although quite functional and in it's own right a very usable tool, was a little rough around the edges and needed some refinement before I would be truly happy with it.
> 
> ...


Great blog and build! Thanks and have fun.


----------



## MNedman (Dec 1, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Finishing Up, Refining the Prototype*
> 
> *When I started to build the chevalet* from a few photos on the internet, I wasn't at all sure it would amount to anything at all so in many places corners were cut to quickly achieve a prototype that would serve to test the critical parts and determine whether more detailed work was warranted. The resulting saw, although quite functional and in it's own right a very usable tool, was a little rough around the edges and needed some refinement before I would be truly happy with it.
> 
> ...


Paul that Phoenix is really the icing on the cake… Now you get to do it all over again back home! Have a safe trip!


----------



## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Finishing Up, Refining the Prototype*
> 
> *When I started to build the chevalet* from a few photos on the internet, I wasn't at all sure it would amount to anything at all so in many places corners were cut to quickly achieve a prototype that would serve to test the critical parts and determine whether more detailed work was warranted. The resulting saw, although quite functional and in it's own right a very usable tool, was a little rough around the edges and needed some refinement before I would be truly happy with it.
> 
> ...


You have done very well indeed. And the phoenix is truly a fitting plaque for it. Both for the symbolism and the degree of difficulty.

I am inspired by your work,
Steve


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## LittlePaw (Dec 21, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Finishing Up, Refining the Prototype*
> 
> *When I started to build the chevalet* from a few photos on the internet, I wasn't at all sure it would amount to anything at all so in many places corners were cut to quickly achieve a prototype that would serve to test the critical parts and determine whether more detailed work was warranted. The resulting saw, although quite functional and in it's own right a very usable tool, was a little rough around the edges and needed some refinement before I would be truly happy with it.
> 
> ...


It is beautiful, Paul. It looks like an artist's easel on steroids! (meant as a compliment!!)


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Finishing Up, Refining the Prototype*
> 
> *When I started to build the chevalet* from a few photos on the internet, I wasn't at all sure it would amount to anything at all so in many places corners were cut to quickly achieve a prototype that would serve to test the critical parts and determine whether more detailed work was warranted. The resulting saw, although quite functional and in it's own right a very usable tool, was a little rough around the edges and needed some refinement before I would be truly happy with it.
> 
> ...


Thanks everyone,

It's been a lot of fun. the next one will be better or a little different anyway.

*Little Paw*, "chevalet" is actually French for "easel" so "chevalet de marqueterie" = "marquetry easel", so much better than the English name "Donkey Saw"


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## BigTiny (Jun 29, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Finishing Up, Refining the Prototype*
> 
> *When I started to build the chevalet* from a few photos on the internet, I wasn't at all sure it would amount to anything at all so in many places corners were cut to quickly achieve a prototype that would serve to test the critical parts and determine whether more detailed work was warranted. The resulting saw, although quite functional and in it's own right a very usable tool, was a little rough around the edges and needed some refinement before I would be truly happy with it.
> 
> ...


When you build the new one, here's a tip for the clamp adjustment. Make the gap where the shim goes tapered and use a truncated wedge to make the adjustment. That way it will fit many thicknesses of packet without having to change shims. Just slide the wedge up or down to change the space at the head.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Finishing Up, Refining the Prototype*
> 
> *When I started to build the chevalet* from a few photos on the internet, I wasn't at all sure it would amount to anything at all so in many places corners were cut to quickly achieve a prototype that would serve to test the critical parts and determine whether more detailed work was warranted. The resulting saw, although quite functional and in it's own right a very usable tool, was a little rough around the edges and needed some refinement before I would be truly happy with it.
> 
> ...


That's a good idea. The truth is I didn't have anything made for the spot when I took the photo so I stuck a piece of 1/4" brass I had in the gap. In reality it's unlikely it will often, or ever, be adjusted.


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## Schwieb (Dec 3, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Finishing Up, Refining the Prototype*
> 
> *When I started to build the chevalet* from a few photos on the internet, I wasn't at all sure it would amount to anything at all so in many places corners were cut to quickly achieve a prototype that would serve to test the critical parts and determine whether more detailed work was warranted. The resulting saw, although quite functional and in it's own right a very usable tool, was a little rough around the edges and needed some refinement before I would be truly happy with it.
> 
> ...


Paul, I wish I had your energy much less skill and talent. You do such really good work.

I am inspired and extend my highest compliments. I mean that sincerely.

Ken


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## LittlePaw (Dec 21, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Finishing Up, Refining the Prototype*
> 
> *When I started to build the chevalet* from a few photos on the internet, I wasn't at all sure it would amount to anything at all so in many places corners were cut to quickly achieve a prototype that would serve to test the critical parts and determine whether more detailed work was warranted. The resulting saw, although quite functional and in it's own right a very usable tool, was a little rough around the edges and needed some refinement before I would be truly happy with it.
> 
> ...


Well, Paul, I don't know how you did it, but you inspired me to finally build a pyramid shaped clamp stand on wheels yesterday. It's nowhere close to the chevalet you built in design and execution, but now I can find any clamp I need in one place! Thanx, Paul.


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## bilbaggins (Sep 11, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Finishing Up, Refining the Prototype*
> 
> *When I started to build the chevalet* from a few photos on the internet, I wasn't at all sure it would amount to anything at all so in many places corners were cut to quickly achieve a prototype that would serve to test the critical parts and determine whether more detailed work was warranted. The resulting saw, although quite functional and in it's own right a very usable tool, was a little rough around the edges and needed some refinement before I would be truly happy with it.
> 
> ...


Brilliant project posts!!!

Many, many thanks for your efforts and sharing. Now I gotta go make one….


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

*New Improved Chevalet Sketchup*

*I have improved* a fair bit since I posted the initial SU of the chevalet. In fact it was my very first attempt and it was, in a word awful. I may not be a pro yet but at least this SU can be pulled apart and measured. 
There's no need for further explanation except top say that this chevalet as drawn can be set up for a seat to blade height from about 22" to about 25". That should accommodate almost everyone.

*EDIT:* Here's an even better one with a "dimensions" layer. (thanks Rance)




  






https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=340d121cc8cc31ef3156432c7f82342

Thanks for looking

Paul


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

shipwright said:


> *New Improved Chevalet Sketchup*
> 
> *I have improved* a fair bit since I posted the initial SU of the chevalet. In fact it was my very first attempt and it was, in a word awful. I may not be a pro yet but at least this SU can be pulled apart and measured.
> There's no need for further explanation except top say that this chevalet as drawn can be set up for a seat to blade height from about 22" to about 25". That should accommodate almost everyone.
> ...


Thanks Paul


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## Chriso (Oct 26, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *New Improved Chevalet Sketchup*
> 
> *I have improved* a fair bit since I posted the initial SU of the chevalet. In fact it was my very first attempt and it was, in a word awful. I may not be a pro yet but at least this SU can be pulled apart and measured.
> There's no need for further explanation except top say that this chevalet as drawn can be set up for a seat to blade height from about 22" to about 25". That should accommodate almost everyone.
> ...


Thanks Paul.


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## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *New Improved Chevalet Sketchup*
> 
> *I have improved* a fair bit since I posted the initial SU of the chevalet. In fact it was my very first attempt and it was, in a word awful. I may not be a pro yet but at least this SU can be pulled apart and measured.
> There's no need for further explanation except top say that this chevalet as drawn can be set up for a seat to blade height from about 22" to about 25". That should accommodate almost everyone.
> ...


Paul, Thank you.


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## Schwieb (Dec 3, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *New Improved Chevalet Sketchup*
> 
> *I have improved* a fair bit since I posted the initial SU of the chevalet. In fact it was my very first attempt and it was, in a word awful. I may not be a pro yet but at least this SU can be pulled apart and measured.
> There's no need for further explanation except top say that this chevalet as drawn can be set up for a seat to blade height from about 22" to about 25". That should accommodate almost everyone.
> ...


Guys like you, keep guys like me, striving to do better. I hope I get to make this. Your diligence, and persistence, not to mention quality of work continues to motivate me.


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## Woodenwizard (Jan 25, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *New Improved Chevalet Sketchup*
> 
> *I have improved* a fair bit since I posted the initial SU of the chevalet. In fact it was my very first attempt and it was, in a word awful. I may not be a pro yet but at least this SU can be pulled apart and measured.
> There's no need for further explanation except top say that this chevalet as drawn can be set up for a seat to blade height from about 22" to about 25". That should accommodate almost everyone.
> ...


Paul;

Thanks for sharing. The more I see of you work the more I am tempted to build my own chevalet. Just need to find some spare time.


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## rance (Sep 30, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *New Improved Chevalet Sketchup*
> 
> *I have improved* a fair bit since I posted the initial SU of the chevalet. In fact it was my very first attempt and it was, in a word awful. I may not be a pro yet but at least this SU can be pulled apart and measured.
> There's no need for further explanation except top say that this chevalet as drawn can be set up for a seat to blade height from about 22" to about 25". That should accommodate almost everyone.
> ...


Paul, when you posted your first one, I told you something to the effect of "You don't know how bad you did.". I think you have earned the award for "Most improved.". Very well done. Anyone could build a fine machine using these plans. Great job.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *New Improved Chevalet Sketchup*
> 
> *I have improved* a fair bit since I posted the initial SU of the chevalet. In fact it was my very first attempt and it was, in a word awful. I may not be a pro yet but at least this SU can be pulled apart and measured.
> There's no need for further explanation except top say that this chevalet as drawn can be set up for a seat to blade height from about 22" to about 25". That should accommodate almost everyone.
> ...


*Rance*,One of the byproducts of improving was that I now could see how right you were. It was embarrassing.
I feel much better about this one.
Thanks for the validation.


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## Gpops (Dec 20, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *New Improved Chevalet Sketchup*
> 
> *I have improved* a fair bit since I posted the initial SU of the chevalet. In fact it was my very first attempt and it was, in a word awful. I may not be a pro yet but at least this SU can be pulled apart and measured.
> There's no need for further explanation except top say that this chevalet as drawn can be set up for a seat to blade height from about 22" to about 25". That should accommodate almost everyone.
> ...


Hey Paul,
I agree with Schwieb, you keep us thinking. Thanks Don


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## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *New Improved Chevalet Sketchup*
> 
> *I have improved* a fair bit since I posted the initial SU of the chevalet. In fact it was my very first attempt and it was, in a word awful. I may not be a pro yet but at least this SU can be pulled apart and measured.
> There's no need for further explanation except top say that this chevalet as drawn can be set up for a seat to blade height from about 22" to about 25". That should accommodate almost everyone.
> ...


Paul,

One day I would love to build this. I have so many projects on my to-do list that I don't know if I'll live long enough to experience a chevalet, but I'm downloading the SketchUp just in case, (it could be an all-night event on this dial-up). Thanks for sharing your incredible expertise.

L/W


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