# Weight Limits for 1/2 Baltic Birch Drawers



## NohoGerry (Dec 6, 2021)

I'm currently designing my Miter Station with base cabinets for my routers, nailers, sanders, etc. Drawers will be approximately 24" square (give or take for cabinet carcass dimensions and slides).

Have found that most woodworkers are building drawers with 3/4 Baltic Birch plywood, but I'm considering using 1/2 inch Baltic Birch for sides and back, and 1/4 inch Baltic Birch for bottoms. The drawer joinery will be "tongue and dado" using the 1/4-1/4-1/4 technique with glue (and maybe 18 guage brads to omit long clamp times).

The question here is "what do you think the weight limit is for this type of drawer with 1/2 stock"? I don't think any individual drawer-with power tools" will have more than 30 lbs. of stuff in it. And the drawer slides I'm using will be side mount 100lb rated.

Is this adequate? I'm trying to keep costs down by avoiding having to use 3/4 baltic. If I have to use 3/4 stock, the joinery will either be biscuits and screws with glue, or pocket hole screws with glue (and 1/4 inch bottoms in dados).

Your input is appreciated-and I'm open to alternate solutions.

Thanks in advance for the help.
Gerry


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## BurlyBob (Mar 13, 2012)

Gerry, I've got a wife who thought if she pushed harder she could get more things in the dresser drawer. I ended up adding additional support around the rim of the underside.

Seriously 1/2" side with a 1/4" dado you should be good for most things. The only issue might be the length of the drawer sides. It might bow over a longer distance. But if you use a metal drawer slide you could avoid that issue altogether.


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

I do all of my shop cabinet drawers with 1/2" ply and 1/4" bottoms. Its weight capacity will exceed the 100 lb slides. There is no need to go to 3/4".


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## bilyo (May 20, 2015)

If you have doubts, I would suggest that you build one and test it. Load it with all of the heavy stuff you can find and see if it fails. (doubt that it will).


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## MPython (Nov 30, 2018)

1/2" BB drawer box with 1/4" BB bottoms will hold lots of weight, especially if you glue the bottoms in. Many of my shop drawers are made that way and they hold way more than 30 lbs. If you have doubts, make the sides from 5/8" BB and the bottoms from 3/8" BB. You can order 5/8 and 3/8 BB Ply if it's not carried by your dealer. 3/4" drawer boxes are overkill.


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

> 1/2" BB drawer box with 1/4" BB bottoms will hold lots of weight, especially if you glue the bottoms in.
> 
> - MPython


We've had this debate before. There is no benefit in gluing the bottoms.


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## EricFai (Sep 30, 2018)

Your plans will work fine and hold up. If you are concerned about the drawer bottom saying over time under a load, you could install a stretcher back to front in the middle for the added support.


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## Dark_Lightning (Nov 20, 2009)

1/2" BB is fine. This drawer with over 30 pounds of lathe hardware is several years old. I did use 1/2" for the bottom because of that. It's glued and screwed to the rest of the drawer. Also, note the cheapie drawer slides. They are holding up fine, as well.


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## mamell (Dec 24, 2015)

Yeah..half is fine. I concentrate on the drawer joinery with lock joint in the front and a dado in the back so you don't incidentally pull the front of the drawer out at some point like a boatload of kitchen draws do in cheap houses.. I do a lot of kitchen door and drawer updates for customers and almost every house has at least two drawers already falling apart in the first few years.


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## Newton (Jun 29, 2008)

For the size of drawers you are building 1/2" box with 1/4" bottom will be fine. More important is the joinery you use. I have built MANY drawers over the years and rabbet the sides for the front and back. It gives plenty of glue surface and can be clamped and nailed. As soon as the nails are set you can remove the clamps. The sides and front should be dadoed for the bottom with the dadoes 1/2" from the bottom of the sides. Dado depth for the bottom and the rabbets for the sides should be 1/2 the thickness of the side material, in this case 1/4". Leave 1/16" overall clearance for the bottom and capture it as you assemble the boxes. No need to glue this as it really doesn't add anything. If desired you can run a bead of hot glue around the underside of the drawer bottom adhering it to the sides, front and back. If you were using solid material for the box the bottom MUST float. Check for square before the glue dries. An out-of-square drawer box is a nightmare.


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## OzarkJim (8 mo ago)

My question would be is there a really good reason to NOT make the drawers out of 3/4" stock? I'm oilfield and we tend to overbuild everything…...


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## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

> My question would be is there a really good reason to NOT make the drawers out of 3/4" stock? I m oilfield and we tend to overbuild everything…...
> 
> - W2Woodworks


Price of materials comes to mind. At present especially, back when not so much. It often came down to what was on hand. Point is for a Normal drawer size, going 1/2" BB is such a sweet working drawer, and so easy to build it. Wasn't much of a need to even consider 3/4"

Second, is the Ladies really like the look of 1/2" drawer sides. 2 things there, they look like the ones at the home center, and 3/4" look "FAT".

Just in case you don't follow, that last comes in under the "Honey Do" rule. The Ladies are always right, even when they aren't.


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## OzarkJim (8 mo ago)

> My question would be is there a really good reason to NOT make the drawers out of 3/4" stock? I m oilfield and we tend to overbuild everything…...
> 
> - W2Woodworks
> 
> ...


I can understand 1/2" in the kitchen. I was thinking 3/4 more in the shop where it will see heavier loads and the drawers will most likely be much wider and deeper? It's a timely question as we are about to start building cabinets in the shop.

Definitely understand the "honey do" rule!

Sorry, don't mean to hijack the conversation.


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## CommonJoe (May 8, 2021)

Back to the OP question. 1/2" will handle much more weight than the drawer guides. Plus it will give you more room inside the drawer. (1/2" could be the difference in something fitting or not). The method your using to build them will be strong enough for anything you are going to use them for.
No practice reason to use 3/4", unless you're a dream woodworker building your dream shop.  lol


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## newwoodbutcher (Aug 6, 2010)

I have 1/2" Baltic Birch drawers in most of my shop "furniture", and some of my other projects (if I don't make solid wood bottoms, I use 1/4" ply). Most of them are finger joints with a 1/4" deep groove all the way around for a1/4" ply bottom. After more than 25 years of woodworking and a lot of use, I've never had a drawer failure. And 3/4" sides look clunky to my eye.


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## OzarkJim (8 mo ago)

Posting Rules
*Play nice. Keep it civil and respectfu*l and appropriate for all ages.
Spam, advertising, pornography and *personal attacks* will not be tolerated.

The rules are the same as above. The "Non-shop Talk", although not about woodworking, is still a component of the site and the same rules and expectations apply. *"Play nice" sums it up nicely.*
Because of their divisive nature, political and religious debates, and thus postings, are prohibited at L


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## CommonJoe (May 8, 2021)

> Had to go there didn t you!!!! Speaking of shops, where are the pictures of yours Joe????
> 
> - W2Woodworks


You get offended too easily.


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## OzarkJim (8 mo ago)

Best of luck with the forum topic. Sorry for the off topic comments.


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## DS (Oct 10, 2011)

> I do all of my shop cabinet drawers with 1/2" ply and 1/4" bottoms. Its weight capacity will exceed the 100 lb slides. There is no need to go to 3/4".
> 
> - Rich


+1

I believe the commercial rating is 100 lbs, though the guide will probably fail first above that weight.

If you have very large drawers greater than 36" wide, I would recommend a sturdier bottom, but that is just a precaution and not strictly necessary.


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## CommonJoe (May 8, 2021)

> Meanwhile back to the OPs question eh…...
> 
> - W2Woodworks


Yes please, try to stay on track.


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## OzarkJim (8 mo ago)

> Meanwhile back to the OPs question eh…...
> 
> - W2Woodworks
> 
> ...


Posting Rules
Play nice. Keep it civil and respectful and appropriate for all ages.


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

> I would but jealous idiots keep being well idiots…...
> 
> - W2Woodworks


Wait a second. You're the guy who just reminded us of the posting rules-and not for the first time I might add-and two posts later you're calling someone an idiot? Explain that one.


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## CommonJoe (May 8, 2021)

> I would but jealous idiots keep being well idiots…...
> 
> - W2Woodworks
> 
> ...


I see he likes to go back and edit his posts after saying things.


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

> I would but jealous idiots keep being well idiots…...
> 
> - W2Woodworks
> 
> ...


That's why I always quote what I'm responding to.


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## CommonJoe (May 8, 2021)

> Had to go there didn t you!!!! Speaking of shops, *where are the pictures of yours Joe????*
> 
> - W2Woodworks


Unblock me and I will send you some pictures. (then you can block me back)


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

> Had to go there didn t you!!!! Speaking of shops, *where are the pictures of yours Joe????*
> 
> - W2Woodworks
> 
> ...


Do it. Let Joe show you his shop. I think it will change the way you think.

Let's just say I know him not as common Joe, but as a very exceptional woodworker.


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## OzarkJim (8 mo ago)

*That being said, this is not grade school. We don't gang up in little groups to take sides or encourage others to do the same.*


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## CommonJoe (May 8, 2021)

> Had to go there didn t you!!!! Speaking of shops, *where are the pictures of yours Joe????*
> 
> - W2Woodworks


If you are going to be the "Rules" Police you should try to follow them yourself.

*Users shall not question or debate another member's qualifications publicly on the message board.*
.
.

I see I'm still blocked, your sincerity must have been misplaced.


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

Gentlemen…... If Cricket sees this there could be troubles.


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