# Delta Scroll Saw Help



## BentheViking (May 19, 2011)

A year ago I bought a Delta scroll saw (model 40-560 type 2) for $20 on Craigslist. It is at least a little old (90's maybe?) made of cast iron very heavy. So I bought it without knowing anything about it because it was just such a good deal. I never needed it so I never bothered learning more about it. Until now. I have a project that I am on a tight deadline with and went to go thread up a blade (ok the only thing I did do with it was buy a pack of 5" pin blades). These blades that I got don't fit in. Not really sure what other types of blades are out there (readily available at HD or Lowe's preferred), but I need something that will get this saw going. Any other help any of you can provide about this saw would be great (how to change the blade especially, but also any other tricks/quirks to use). If anyone has a manual or something they could send me that would be great too. Thanks in advance


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

Check this link

http://servicenet.dewalt.com/Products/Detail?productNumber=40-560


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## BentheViking (May 19, 2011)

Thanks a lot Wayne that helped quite a bit. So a general scroll saw question…The blades I have are pin style, but the manual says i need straight blades. Can I cut or grind the pins down? Or do I need to buy a new pack of blades? Thanks


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

I would ask ScrollGirl. I would think you would need to buy the proper blades, but scroll sawing is not my thing.


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## sugarpine (Jul 24, 2011)

I'm familiar with the 40-560, having sold therm for a few years. You'll need 6" pin less blades. I use OLSON PGT (Precision Ground Teeth) Blades. I get them at the local Rockler Woodworking and Hardware. I doubt whether Home Depot or Lowe's will have them since they are a quality blade. However, any 6" non pin blade will work. The PGT's are superior to most and last a lot longer. They are available at www.pozsgaidesigns.com and other websites.

Blade changing on that scroll saws fairly easy. The later versions have a lever on the blade holders for quick changing. Earlier models used a either a allen wrench or a special wrench that looked like a old fashioned skate key.

No matter the method of tightening, it's important that the blade be 90 degrees to the bottom of the holder. It's not something you have to measure, just eyeball it. If the blade is installed crooked, it will break prematurerly

Google Delta 40-560 and you'll find a source for a owners manual at www.atomicmall.com


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## bubinga (Feb 5, 2011)

sugarpine
This is incorrect, You'll need 6" pin less blades.

That saw takes standard 5" flat plane end blades
You should be able to get the pins, out of the pin end blades, you have, and use them just fine , I have done it before, using a couple pairs of pliers
They have 5" plane end blades at HD
You will break some blades ,while cutting, but let the saw do the cutting


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## sugarpine (Jul 24, 2011)

My apologies, I meant to say 5".
Nonetheless, removing the pins will work but the selection of blade sizes in pinned blades is terrible. Nothing really good for tight radius cutting. Nothing beats a good blade that will corner well and leave an edge that needs no sanding.

Happy scroll sawing.


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

FYI, item 119, #1343648 BLADE WRENCH is pretty much required in that it keeps you from torquing the blade as you tighten lower clamp. What it does is hold the clamping mechanism vertical while you tighten. Don't know if that was included in your CL score. If it wasn't pick one up or insert a small allen wrench through the hole adjacent to the lower clamp and then tighten with the other allen wrench.


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## bubinga (Feb 5, 2011)

I agree, removing the pins will work but the selection of blade sizes in pinned blades is terrible


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## BentheViking (May 19, 2011)

I tried playing around with this thing again today. I had printed out the instruction manual and followed it and got the blade installed. I started using it and the it seems like the two arms are moving at different speeds or something. Everything works fine for a few pumps and then it all bends out of place and pops out of the two blade holding clamps. I tried adjusting tensions and couldn't really get it to work much better. I was just trying to cut 3/8" and 3/4" pine. I ended up destroying 3 blades and figured before destroying the whole pack I'd ask LJs any advice. I am using Skil 15 TPI pin blades (with the pin removed).


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## sugarpine (Jul 24, 2011)

Your symptoms puzzle me because it's impossible for the top arm to be moving at a different speed. The bottom arm is driven by the motor. The only time the top arm can move is when the bade is installed thereby connecting the top and bottom arms. I'd call Delta direct and speak to a service technician. Be aware that Delta no longer makes this scroll saw so it's imperative that you speak with somebody that's serviced your model.

One final thought: nearly every scroll saw I've ever owned requires that the tension be removed or adjusted to provide no tension when installing a blade. This is accomplished by turning a tension knob, sometimes in the back, other times on the front of the upper arm. Newer saws have a lever to remove tension, usually near the front on the upper arm.

Good luck


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## BentheViking (May 19, 2011)

I didn't actually think that the arms are moving at different speeds, I was just saying that what seems like is going on would be similar to a problem if the arms are operating independently. I don't know if the blade is getting caught up on the wood or the throat plate or what but the blade is just bending.

When changing the blade I have loosened the tension mechanism (in this case a screw to change the tension and an arm to set or release tension on the blade.


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## ajosephg (Aug 25, 2008)

Make sure you have enough tension on the blade, and make sure that you are not inadvertently pushing the wood sidewise. Also, make sure the foot is holding the board securely against the table, and finally don't force the cut, go slow, 3/4 inch wood is a big mouth full for a scroll saw.

And finally, buy some quality blades. I don't think Skill qualifies.


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## BentheViking (May 19, 2011)

is there such thing as too much tension? I hadn't though about the foot just assuming it was just kind of there and forgetting that it probably had a function.

Would Bosch qualify as quality blades? I need something quick to get this project done so whatever I get will have to be available from HD or Lowes. Since Lowe's only has Bosch and Skil and I think that Home Depot has Ryobi, so I am going to have to hope Bosch blades are at least good enough.

I have used scroll saws many times before, but this is the first one I've owned and really don't know much about setting them up for initial use. I am just hoping that we are dealing with an issue of operator error and not something wrong with the saw. I only spent $20 on it, but know that it should be a much more valuable piece of equipment want to still have gotten a good deal.


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## sugarpine (Jul 24, 2011)

In my experience, the only problem that will occur with too much tension is that the blade will pop out of either the top or the bottom holder. When the blade is properly tensioned it should have very little movement to the rear (less then 1/8") when pushed from the front with the saw turned off. If you pluck the blade like a guitar string it should sound like a high C.


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## sugarpine (Jul 24, 2011)

If your Delta scroll saw issue still persists, try asking for help on www.scrollsawer.com. They have a wealth of scroll saw folks with lots of knowledge and experience on all scroll saw makes and models. I went there a few weeks ago and got some great help with a pattern search.


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## BentheViking (May 19, 2011)

So I played with it again and here is what i see. The clamping mechanisms that hold the blade in on the top and bottom arms seem to have some natural springy movement. Once i start pushing wood through the saw the blade moves a bit due to those two clamps. Sugarpine you told me less than an eighth but because of these it has almost a quarter inch of movement. I looked and from what I could see there isn't any way to tighten these at all. As i push the wood it seems as if the blade starts to loosen from the bottom clamp until it pops out of there and becomes all mangled.


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## sugarpine (Jul 24, 2011)

The holders (both top and bottom) should have lots of movement front to back when there is no tension on the blade. When tension is applied the arms pull on each end of the blade removing any front to back holder movement and making the blade very taut (high C when plucked like a guitar string). Anything less than that and you just can't scroll saw with it. Wish I had your misbehaving scroll saw in front of me to help figure things out.


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## BentheViking (May 19, 2011)

after destroying about a half dozen blades I have figured out that I have the tension correct, its just that the blade keeps slipping out of the bottom clamp even when i tighten it as much as i possibly can. im sure i can jury rig something up, i was just hoping someone else had a solution that they use or have heard of or think could be used.


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## sugarpine (Jul 24, 2011)

Just a few hours ago I had a similar problem with my RBI Hawk scroll saw. Blades were breaking far to often so I stopped to investigate. The threads on the tightening screw of the top blade holder were slipping when I tightened the blade in the holder. It was good enough for a few minutes, then the blade broke. The screw threads were just about shot causing the blade to ever so slowly slip and slowly decrease the tension. The decrease in tension eventually led to the blade breaking.

The symptoms were VERY similar to yours. I had a replacement screw and swapped it out. No more problems.

Check the threads on your bottom clamp screw. Maybe swap the screws top to bottom and see if the blade starts popping out of the top holder. It could also be the female threads in the bottom holder itself however the holders are usually made of harder steel than the screw so the screw threads wear out before the holder threads.

Good luck. Sorry this has turned into such a nightmare for you.


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## BentheViking (May 19, 2011)

Nightmare it is. I will look into the bottom clamp screw tomorrow and see about that. The screw in the top actually broke today when i was trying to tighten the tension arm. Not sure if i had it tensioned too high or if it was just the screw was old and weak. regardless i got it swapped out. thanks so much for all your help sugarpine


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## sugarpine (Jul 24, 2011)

Good luck tomorrow. You need something to go your way soon.


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## BentheViking (May 19, 2011)

I really do…just because I haven't had the scroll saw hasn't eliminated the need of cutting certain pieces. holding a 1"x3" piece in your hand and using a jigsaw is scary…osha would not be happy


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## paul44224 (Jul 19, 2011)

Hey Ben, did you clean the ends of the blades? The blades have a coating on them to prevent rust. Just dip the ends in thinner. I use a piece of folded sandpaper and "pull" the ends of the blades through a couple of times. They shouldn't slip out of the clamps anymore. Sears carries a decent assortment of sizes of blades. But cheaply made ! They don't last long at all ! I get my blades, Olsons PGT, from sloanswoodworking.com .

Paul


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## BentheViking (May 19, 2011)

GOOD NEWS!!!!...at least i hope so and I'm not jinxing it by thinking I've solved the problem. Winner would be Paul, who's idea of running the end of the blades through sandpaper seemed to work. Just rubbed some 80 grit and we were good to go. First blade I did this with broke after a minute (I think I had had it over tensioned), but then I loosened it up a bit and was able to run the saw for a good 20 minutes making the cuts I needed. Only issue now is that the blade is touching the throat plate a bit so I think I have to grind it out a bit. Now i just need some more practice to actually make some cuts that are halfway straight and clean. Thanks to everyone who has helped me with this issue…i know where to turn if I run into issues again.


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