# Opinions on the Delta-Rockwell 34-350 12/14 Table Saw



## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

So I may have the opportunity to acquire a Delta 34-250 12/14" table saw for a great price (under $200). This is an old machine but it has been maintained very well and has no rust to speak of. The tilt and height adjustments work smoothly, as do their locking wheels. The fence is the stock fence, it works fine, I didn't measure the rip capacity, but the overall width of the saw from the left-hand table edge to the end of the fence rail is about 78". It has the arm on the rear that holds the blade guards, and at some point a splitter with anti-kickback prawls was jimmy-rigged on. It does have the 1" arbor installed, which is nice, the 1 1/8" would've been a dealbreaker for me, I think. It has both cast iron side extensions, and an insert to fill the rest of the fence rail beyond the cast iron. Also has two stock miter gauges, they are huge.

It is currently on 3-phase, I have a 220 hookup so I will purchase a 3HP single-phase motor for it. Also, it doesn't have an arbor extension and currently cannot fit a dado set. But, I think I will plan on someday moving my router out of my current router table and into the table saw extension, so that could solve the dado issue for the time being. I do have a dust collection system.

I currently have a Bosch 4100 portable saw and have made do with that for 6 or 7 years, and I figured at some point I would upgrade to a Unisaw or something, but even the prices in the used market have made it prohibitive.

So, all that being said, does anyone have any experience with this saw? Other than the fact that it can't, without an arbor extension, fit a dado set, and requires 12" blades due to the arbor size, is there any reason not to get this saw? This seems like it could be a table saw to last the long haul for me.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

For that price… it should already be sitting in your garage. And it would cheaper and give you a ton of options not available otherwise to go with a VFD rather than swapping the motor out… if you do swap the motor, you are looking at the price of the motor, plus the modifications necessary to the starter to handle the new motor. A VFD would set you back about $200 and you could sell the existing starter to recover most of that. See this thread over at OWWM for an example:

5 HP 12/14 saw with 3 HP VFD; Rusty's bench started.

Cheers,
Brad

PS: Grizzly has an arbor extension that should fit… see this Wiki entry over at the Vintagemachinery site for details:
Grizzly Parts that will fit the Delta 12-14 Saw

You might also find this one a good read:
Making a new arbor for a Delta/Crescent 12-14 Saw


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## jbswearingen (Jun 27, 2012)

I've used it. It's an amazing saw. I don't think you'll ever throw anything at it that it can't handle.

It's *heavy*. The arbor alone is back breaking for a single person to lift.

It's a longer reach to the blade than a Unisaw or PM66. Keep that in mind. But it has acres of surface space!

(edit)

And to add to what Brad above says: It should already be in your shop, even if only to resell. Now that I have a bigger shop, if one comes up in my area, I'm getting it.


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

Hm, I guess I didn't realize I couldn't just throw a new motor in there. Looks like this VFD would wire in directly to the motor, and can program the multifunction input the wire in a paddle-style on/off switch.

http://www.factorymation.com/FM50-203-C


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

> It s *heavy*. The arbor alone is back breaking for a single person to lift.
> - jbswearingen


Brad, my plan was to take off the rail, extensions, top, motor, for transport in a couple trips. I have a Silverado. I figure the top to be a couple hundred pounds, and the motor to be at least 100. Any more reasonable way to transport this? I guess if I could find someone with a engine hoist, I could rent a uhaul for a day. What would be the best way to hoist this? Would I damage it if I put chains under the sides of the top (under the main top, not the extensions)?


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

That. Is a lifetime saw.


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## jbswearingen (Jun 27, 2012)

An engine hoist is the way to go for both breaking it down and putting it back together.

Go hollar at the folks at www.owwm.org ; search for "Delta 12/14" and you'll find out how others have done it.

You shouldn't damage the top by lifting it with a chain. It's cast iron; just don't drop it!

A VFD is a great way to go on this; you can add motor breaking through it.

I'm jealous at your fortune!


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Break it down into parts and two people should be able to handle it… remove fence, extension wings, table, motor and anything else that will easily unbolt. Here is a comment about moving one from a member over at OWWM:



> Well I just got done moving this beast. WOW it's so heavy. Plenty of guys to load it, but unloading there was just two of us and this thing is no joke. The top, wings and motor were all removed and the base must be close to 450 lbs. Two of us picked it up and out of a pick up bed and set it down without damage to the saw or ourselves.


I would have probably used a couple of 2x's (2×10's or whatever was handy) to use as a ramp to slide it out, but brute force appears to work as well  If you have a trailer with a flip down back gate/ramp, you could probably easily hand cart it in and out. Maybe check with U-haul to see what a daily rental rate is - I don't think they are too expensive.

Cheers,
Brad


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

Good information here, thanks guys. I still don't know if I'll be able to get the saw, but I think the chances are pretty good (~80%). If I do, I think I'm going to look into removing the fence rails, motor, top and wings. I could rent a low U-Haul trailer with a ramp for about $25, which should make transporting a little easier. I was looking at the 1300lb-rated dolly Grizzly has for about $100, and I think I'll have one of those waiting back in my garage. I don't usually find myself breaking down large sheet goods (and I have a circular saw guide for that), so my plan is to position the saw in the center of my 16×20 shop, where my lumber stack currently is. That stack has been there for 2 years, so I know I can deal with having that space occupied.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

For under $200, that's one heck of a deal! There's one for sale not too far from me for $600 and if I already didn't have too many table saws, I'd be all over it even at over 3x the price of the one you can get. I have experience working with an RT-40 which I believe was an evolution of that saw and as previously mentioned, it would easily be a forever saw without a whole lot of work.


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## cabmaker (Sep 16, 2010)

That is my daily user saw…...I don't understand what your waiting on

Its a great machine

I wouldn't insult that saw (if u get it) with a cheap fence…..go bies if you replace the jetlock fence

The top with orig extensions will measure 48 X 38 inches

With a 12 inch blade set for 3/4 material you will have 18 3/4 in of surface before contacting the blade

I have 14 in blades but rarely use them.

Go get it !


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

I too have a Delta Rockwell 12-14 cabinet that part of my daily routine. No get the hell out of here and go get it.


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## jbswearingen (Jun 27, 2012)

So…any updates?


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

No updates so far. I submitted my offer (my work is liquidating things) and it could take a couple days or a couple weeks to hear back. I'm hopeful, in the spring I got my Reliant 3HP dust collector with about 50'+ of hose for $100.


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## jbswearingen (Jun 27, 2012)

Um…can I come visit? I have a trailer.


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

Just an update…I got approved for the saw, and I will begin disassembling it tomorrow. I'm hoping to have most of the disassembly done tomorrow, and then start taking it home in pieces in the back of my pickup.

I looked at the manual, and it shows that, during assembly, the table is put on first, then the machine tipped forward onto its side, and the motor installed. Even with the wings off, I don't feel comfortable with me and one other person tipping the table with the top still attached, so, we'll probably get the top off, then tip it, and then pull the motor.

http://www.vintagemachinery.org/pubs/698/565.pdf


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## jbswearingen (Jun 27, 2012)

Congrats!

Are you a member over at OWWM? If not, join up. Other members that have the saw can walk you through it.


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

I am not a member yet, but I will sign up. I heard theirs a market for the 3-phase starter switch? Couldn't find any comparables on eBay, though.

Going to start disassembly in an hour or so.


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

Spent about an hour working at it so far, got the blade guard, fence/rails, extensions, and top off. No problems so far. Once I get the inside vacuumed out, I'll pull off the front adjustment wheel so I can tip it forward to get the motor out. As a pleasant surprise, in the process, I found the original arbor/spanner combination wrench on the floor behind it. Powered it up before disassembly and everything sounds great. Took a while to spin down, will definitely look into the braking option on the VFD.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

> Took a while to spin down, will definitely look into the braking option on the VFD.


How long is 'a while'? Should not take all that long, and if it does, I'd suspect the bearings are about gone.

Cheers,
Brad


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

By a while I may be exaggerating, hard to recall exactly, but maybe 5sec-ish? I guess it's similar to the time it takes my current Bosch direct drive to spin down. Always seems like a long time when I'm waiting for it to stop.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

> By a while I may be exaggerating, hard to recall exactly, but maybe 5sec-ish? I guess it s similar to the time it takes my current Bosch direct drive to spin down. Always seems like a long time when I m waiting for it to stop.
> - BinghamtonEd


That is fine.. you don't want it to stop much faster as you can spin the blade off the arbor otherwise - which isn't really something you would want to do 

Cheers,
Brad

PS: I'd still replace the bearings anyway - you have no way of knowing what condition they are in and it's cheap insurance.


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## jbswearingen (Jun 27, 2012)

+1 on replacing the bearings.

Now then, if you find somebody selling a 12-16" jointer for under $800 within 300 miles of DC, give me a shout!


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## avsmusic1 (Jul 10, 2016)

How does this thread not have any pictures yet!?


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

I'll snap a couple tomorrow in it's disassembled state. I won't be taking it home until early next week, just too busy. This is the only one I have, took it after I got the top off.


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## jbswearingen (Jun 27, 2012)

Is it as heavy as we said it would be?


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

It certainly is. I think it's ready for transport next week. We pulled the motor this morning and if I had to guess I would say the motor itself was only maybe 70lbs? The cabinet with the trunions still in is an absolute beast. Here's a few more pictures. You can see that at some point it was painted yellow. Maybe someday I'll repaint it, but no time soon. Top had something dripped across the side as you can see, but it looks like it'll clean up with a scotchbrite pad.


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## hkmiller (Mar 6, 2018)

> I'll snap a couple tomorrow in it's disassembled state. I won't be taking it home until early next week, just too busy. This is the only one I have, took it after I got the top off.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


THAT IS A NICE, CLEAN SAW.


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

Yes, it was definitely not used a ton, and was well cared for. $150 well spent. Ordered my VFD last night, as well (cost me $50 more than the saw).


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## unbob (Mar 10, 2013)

These are good saws, always be careful never stand behind the blade.

Take note of this, the tables lightest corner is the far left, the table is adjusted so as the blade will be true to the table, and miter slots when the blade is tilted at 45, and at 90. This is done by the spacers at the two front locations, and the far right table bolt location. Once these are adjusted, then the far left table bolt ls shimmed. Other wise, be careful not to bend the table when reinstalling it.
A detailed description of how to adjust the table for trueness with the blade at tilt is in the Grizzly manuals for their older 12" saws, also they have a 5/8" arbor for low cost.


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

Bob, do you know of a right-tilt 12" grizzly saw that might have a compatible 5/8" arbor? I was planning on grabbing a couple new 12" Freud blades, and using my router table (and eventually mount the router in the saw extension). If I used my current 8" dado on a 5/8" arbor, would I need to worry about alignment after swapping arbors back?


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## unbob (Mar 10, 2013)

The grizzly 12" right tilt saw is the G5959. The changeable arbor is only the threaded center piece, the flange is fixed, so the blades will remain in the same position when arbors are changed.
Delta never offered a 5/8" arbor, but Grizzly did for their G5959. The standard size is 1". The arbors were available short and long, the long arbors for dado will interfere with the table throat plate when tilting at 45. The grizzly 5/8" arbor is long enough for a standard dado stack, but shorter then the big arbors, so no problem when tilting. I have used blades as small as 7 1/4".
The way the saw is set up from the factory, the blade runs very close to the right edge of the tables throat, if you want to make and use zero clearance table inserts, "when remounting the table", it can be slid over to the right giving a 1/4" or so of clearance for that…...


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

Thanks for the response. Unfortunately, based on Grizzly's site, that arbor has been discontinued. I appreciate the suggestion on mounting the table to accommodate for the zero clearance, I will try to do that.


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## unbob (Mar 10, 2013)

> Thanks for the response. Unfortunately, based on Grizzly's site, that arbor has been discontinued. I appreciate the suggestion on mounting the table to accommodate for the zero clearance, I will try to do that.
> 
> - BinghamtonEd


 Call the parts department about the arbors for the G5959, you need to order the nut and washer also-3 parts.


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## jbswearingen (Jun 27, 2012)

I think you can get inserts for the 12/14" blades that will make them work on smaller arbors, but not the other way around.

Yes, the larger blades are more expensive, but if you intend on having them sharpened when dull, then the cost goes *way* down over time. I have a guy out in Arizona I ship mine to; he does good work and is inexpensive.


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

Any suggestions on a wax to apply to the internals of the saw to help prevent rust? This saw was in a climate-controlled shop its whole life, my garage is not. For my current tools, I just use paste wax, Can anyone segguest a decent dry lube from the BORG for the moving bits?


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## jbswearingen (Jun 27, 2012)

Are the inner castings bare metal?

The teeth are probably bare metal. Some like to use a hard wax to lubricate them.

I would first try it without lubricating and then attack it if it is needed.


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

The castings are not bare metal, but things like the shaft that the motor mount pivots on. There was not issue with the tilt/height adjustments, but they sounded like they could use some lubrication.


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

Just a follow-up…the saw is home and up and running. Needs a decent blade but other than that, it's awesome. Eventually I'd like to upgrade the fence but that's out of the picture right now.

Also picked up a Baldor 7306DP 1800rpm grinder for a sweet $100.

Enjoy the sideways pictures until I fix them at work tomorrow.


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## jbswearingen (Jun 27, 2012)

I don't know how I missed the end product.

Nice!

I like the wiring board you used for your VFD. I did mine a little differently-1ph, 220V runs from the wall to it, then 3ph, 220V power then runs into the wall to a 3ph outlet to power my planer or jointer.


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## jbswearingen (Jun 27, 2012)

I dunno whether I've asked this before: Are you a member at www.owwm.org ?

They'd love to see this saw and can offer any help you might need. We have a machine registry at www.owwm.com where we post pics and history (as much as we know, at least) of our machinery and their serial numbers.


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## VintageGuy (9 mo ago)

I know I am late to this game but…I have had this saw for about a year and have kind of stumbled into making parts for it. I make the 5/8"and 1'Diameter arbors both stubby and for dado stacks, and have made a few bearing retainer nuts as well. I also make a dust chute for this saw. I sell these direct, on eBay and FB marketplace.


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