# The natural edge forum



## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Hi gals and guys.. I thought to start a forum for those who are into natural edge design furniture, bowls, boxes and so on. So, what draws you to create natural edge products and what your recipients think about your creations? It would be great if this could be a natural edge questions and answers forum for those who appreciate the art and are willing to share pictures and processes of how they achieved their goal(s).


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## vikingcape (Jan 3, 2013)

I think what has been attracting me to the way it challenges you to work with something non symetrical. I like having to come up with ways to work with it, as opposed to cutting it off and going square. Really a new venture for me now but it's fun


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## leafherder (Jan 20, 2013)

I like the rustic look that the natural edge provides. In the age of mass production, mass marketing, it is nice to see something that is obviously hand crafted.


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

I'm no artist, but I like the fact that the design best natural edge pieces flows from the shape/texture/dimensions of the raw piece you start with.


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

The flip side is that if you have a design in mind, you have so search for the right piece to work-you can't just glue up the dimension/look you want.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

I have to agree with all of you..It would be next to impossible to reproduce the same natural edge design mainly because it is impossible to come up with the same natural edge wood. And yes, the difficulty to match all the irregular corners, joints; bringing the whole thing into a desirable piece of furniture requires a sort of imaginative artistic and eccentric way of thinking. Currently, I am working on a project that though it is not going to be a natural edge project, it will require natural edge wood. I will explain as what I mean about this later. I will try to post some picture of it as it comes along. In the meanwhile here is a picture of my first jewelry box. And again although it is not natural edge, it came from one, and the most difficult part of making this box was trying to keep the lid from warping on both ends.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

So, I am thinking, does natural edge mean you have to show the bark or just that the project was made with natural edge selects??

Here is some pictures of what I am working on currently and hope to finish by late Fall:










So, I have this natural edge cherry that is about 3" thick.



















As you can see, there are cracks on both ends of the board.










The best parts happen to be from 22" to 64" with no crack in it. The slab has left me with two ends that have some significant cracks that I have to do something else with… To me, the most expensive part of making a good natural edge furniture is utilizing the "waste".


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

Bark is negotiable. I left it on a piece I did, but took it off a piece I did as a gift-it was a coffee table and I thought it might get knocked off over time.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Agree Charles, I don't think the bark defines natural edge any more than the shape of the wood that is cut as "natural edge". I mean not quarter saw, but made to one from a center piece of a very odd shaped lumber and so on.


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## vikingcape (Jan 3, 2013)

I think it could be both the bark or just the natural curvature. It is something that demands you remember it as a tree, not just a piece of wood


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Totally agree Kaleb..


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

I leave the bark on areas that are not contacted in normal use. Any place I think they will rub against it, I take it off.

I tell people that it's not just intended to be rustic. Nakashima was not considered rustic. I certainly don't consider myself in his category, but natural edge can be sophisticated as well.

Good forum.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Monte, he certainly was a master at blending something "rustic" into a modern, classic piece of art. I am not sure if it was the simplicity of his work or the complexity of it that fit into almost any environment??


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

I agree, Monte. I like live edge-don't like rustic.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

So, the board is about 2-1/4" thick but it has a good 1/2" dip near the middle of it.


















At this point I wish I had a 22" planer with the board being 19" wide, I am going to hand plane it flat; with this task, no need to join a health club to get a good workout.


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## Nubsnstubs (Aug 30, 2013)

Well, since this post is in the Woodturning forum, and I have not seen a round object yet, I'll post one or two pics… This is Tamarisk Burl, obviously natural edge, 5 1/4" tall and 6" OD. Dyed with Sherwin Willians custom dye, sanded back and stained with Sher. Wil. Chestnut stain. Wall thickness is about 7/16" thick as I was limited on access to make it thinner. ............. Jerry (in Tucson)


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

My planer will only do 16 inches wide. So I have to hand plane the bigger stuff as well. Gives a great appreciation for the hand toolers.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Pretty wild looking bowl Jerry. like all those patina colors on it.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Monte, 
I bought a craftsman jack plane from CL last year for 20 something. When it arrive I was surprised to see that it had never been used. It was made in the 60's and came in its original box. This thing shaves two inch wide strips with each stroke.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Well, I went ahead and started to plane the section I will need keeping the ends intact. The weight of the board made it easier to do the job.










So far I have ended up with 1-3/4" thickness.


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## Nubsnstubs (Aug 30, 2013)

Well heck, natural edges, I'll post another wip. Citrus, about 7" od and 4+" thick at this point. Working on turning a tenon. .









I'm pretty proud of this one below. There must be at least a half million bug holes. It survived at 3/6" thick x 6" od x 4 3/4" tall. Palo Verde, a Desert tree that is only useful to some woodturners. This piece of wood was dead only a year, and sealed just after it being removed. Bugs moved in, then worked their way out just before I turned it as I found no live bugs….. 









This particular piece is Mesquite, about a hundred years dead, eroding away in the desert until I latched onto it. About 4" od, and 3" tall. 









I do natural edges as they are so easy for me, plus I love how they enhance a round form. ............ Jerry (in Tucson)


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Jerry, that Palo weirdo is sure pretty… It must have a real sweet sap for bugs to chew it up like that. Almost like what bugs do to hickory because of its sweet sap. What kind of chuck are you using to turn these pieces?. Never seen one with spikes on it.


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

Turning live edge is very cool looking.


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

Another thing about the "rustic" title. I try to emphasize "natural wood" more. I talked to a local furniture store and they said that they already sold rustic log furniture. I told them that what I did was nothing like what they carried. We will see. I have another one that I would rather sell at.


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## RRBOU (Feb 15, 2012)

This is the sofa table I made for the wife a couple of years ago.


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## LiveEdge (Dec 18, 2013)

Despite the name and the love for organic shapes (versus linear) I have yet to be able to incorporate a natural edge into a project. That is about to change. Hopefully in the next 2-3 weeks I will take delivery of a maple slab coming down from a fellow LJer and am planning on building a desk. I'm looking forward to the lessons I will have to learn. The final slab will be about 35×72 and will come from the piece shown below. I can hardly wait!


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

Randy, excellent job. The live edge accents the rest of the project.


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

LiveEdge, great slabs. I just am starting a table with some maple slabs that look like that.


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## Nubsnstubs (Aug 30, 2013)

> Jerry, that Palo weirdo is sure pretty… It must have a real sweet sap for bugs to chew it up like that. Almost like what bugs do to hickory because of its sweet sap. What kind of chuck are you using to turn these pieces?. Never seen one with spikes on it.
> 
> - mrjinx007


 Actually, Palo Verde,( like weirdo better) when fresh cut causes me to keep lifting my feet and checking the bottoms of my shoes. hehehe It gets on you and takes about a day for the smell to disipate. 
My chuck is a Nova G3. What you are asking about is something I like to think I invented. I call it a Chuck Plate. It starts out as a 1" x 4 1/2 OD disc. I turn a 3/8" x 2 1/4" tenon to mount it into a chuck. It also has thirteen 1/4 - 28 X 1 1/2" set screws with evil looking points. It was concieved in August, 2010, because the wood I wanted to turn had no center, and was too fragile to sink screws into with a face plate. It took me 30 minutes to come up with one in wood. Did that route for about 2 years, then went to Aluminum. From there, I now use it in my tenon removals. Works like a charm, and now my face plates are obsolete…...... Jerry


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## vikingcape (Jan 3, 2013)

Wow! Some sweet turning there Jerry. I have never even touched a lathe. One day I hope to. I'll snap a picture of my headboard of the bed I am working on. Not quite a crazy natural edge but still natural.

This is an awesome forum Mr. Jinx, thanks for posting it. This is the stuff I really get into now furniture wise


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## vikingcape (Jan 3, 2013)

Slight live edge. Irregularly shaped on top. Making for some fun attaching to the legs. Really going.to be nice though


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

wow folks. I can see that we all can learn a lot from each other.. RRBOU, I can see that table fit into the Apple's 12th floor as you walk into the meeting hall with Tim Cook. It would be an excellent accent. I learned today that Steve Jobs limited his children's exposure to technology to a few hours a week, including Apple's products which he was recognized as the father of those technologies. I tend to concur with him, that without our past, we are lost in our future.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

LiveEdge, Where is that maple coming form??? The northeast?


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

Kaleb, beautiful piece.

This is a bar top I am working on


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Kaleb the Swede, when I used to live in the New England (MA), there was this cabinet shop that I used to pilfer through their "waste pile" and find enough lumber to make several musical instruments for less than $10.. The owner was the coolest guy I've ever met. I used to use maple wood like you have in your picture to make the necks for my instruments; although I never came across the one you have posted; mostly 1x's and 2x's by 3' max. Hope you will post the process and the end result.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Jerry, I love the innovation although I am trying to wrap my head around it.. It sounds simple enough, but not really.. I've never used a chuck; maybe that's why.


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## wseand (Jan 27, 2010)

mrjinx007, if you are going to make your own personal forum and tell people to use it to get help with natural edge questions. Then you should tell them it isn't a real forum and give them a link to it so they don't have to search for it like I did. It's not like you can go to the forums home page a find it. 
You told tturner to ask his question in your "the live edge forum" when you really could've been a bit more helpful to him in his own post. 
These kinds of personal forums make it so difficult to search the site and get answers without having to ask a question that has already been answered a million times or having to scroll through hundreds of posts to see if it has already been asked. 
I personally don't like these types of threads, obviously right.


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

I always find it odd when someone comes on a thread to say they don't like it. It's like eating at a restaurant you don't like, why did you go there then?

My other thought about it, why do people hate threads that encourage the sharing of ideas and skills while promoting socializing, on a website that was created for sharing ideas and socializing. Hmm.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Personally, I wish there were several more forums like this; what is the best router, what table saw should I buy, name this wood, table saw/band saw repair, jig saw of your dreams (lol) and so on.

Monte Pittman, is that epoxy on that bar top?


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## vikingcape (Jan 3, 2013)

Wow that is some top Monte. what are the dimensions on it? Cherry, I'm guessing?


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## RRBOU (Feb 15, 2012)

Glad the wife was not with me last week when I went to the sawyer or I am sure that this slab would have followed me home to make her a dinning table.

It measured 43" x 91" x 3.25" He had 4 slabs from this log and another log on the saw that is bigger and I am sure more figured by the look of the outside of the log.

This one has a lot of spalting in the sap wood and is very nice.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Step aside Freddy Krueger and Texas chain saw massacre leather face… There is a new boy in town; the Arkansas Makita slicer and dicer.










Once I did the rough smoothing the surface, cut both side of the board at 45 degree angle.









Now, this baby is small enough to carry around. The bark was too damaged to save so, I went ahead a cut both sides .



























Back to smoothing the surface with a smaller planer.









I think I am pretty close to 1-1/2" and just refuse to go any thinner than this since I need to scrape and then sand too.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

RRBOU, Those are some awesome looking slabs and 43' wide can make some fantastic stuff. Folks around me can not cut beyond 26"


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

I like the Makita. I have had people tell me that those saws do not cut very straight. What is your experience? I would like one.

Kaleb, my slab is actually poplar. Old log that was dead a couple years before sawing. Poplar can get some great colors as it ages.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

They don't cut straight if you are cutting at 45 degree or too close to the edge mainly because the spring on the blade guard is way too strong and cause the saw to move toward the pull. Also, it is very difficult to cut angles with it because you almost need 3 hands; two to hold the saw and one to pull the guard up so it doesn't jamb underneath. There is a chainsaw type of "skill saw" in the market that is a lot cheaper but I don't think it would produce a good edge for a waterfall effect.


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## vikingcape (Jan 3, 2013)

Mr. Jinx, did they only have that saw in the small size or something?! That thing is huge.

That poplar is incredible, definitely an under appreciated wood.


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## LiveEdge (Dec 18, 2013)

> LiveEdge, Where is that maple coming form??? The northeast?
> 
> - mrjinx007


No, it is coming from Washington state. I'm in Oregon. It's a Big Leaf Maple.


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## wseand (Jan 27, 2010)

Monte, yeah don't allow anyone to criticize anything anyone does. What happens is there is 10 forums/chat rooms that take up the first page of the new content. You all want to chit chat over the forum and put all this great info out there but never to be useful to anyone except for the ones in the chat room. All I am saying is be helpful to people asking a question and don't make them find a forum that doesn't really exist.

You can't have a forum for every type of wood and every technique out there. What are we going to have a Forum for every question someone asks, It will ruin the website.

If I go to a restaurant and they suck I will tell them. I hate when I go somewhere and they state that they are the best at something and really the aren't.


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

I like live edge for certain applications. I don't turn, but do like what folks can do in turning. My last one.

slab:









Cut 45° angle with circular saw:

















table:


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## Nubsnstubs (Aug 30, 2013)

I don't have any problem with your forum, but why is it in the Woodturners forum? Did I chick on the wrong thing somewhere? .................... Jerry (in Tucson)


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

CharlesA, what in the world are you going to do with that last piece?? That would be where the pressure can make me totally screw up… Jerry, I am not sure how I landed here, but who cares… It was/is meant to be a live edge/natural edge discussion forum. As long as we are there, then it is all AOK?


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

i spent about 2 weeks figuring out the joint and the cut, even set it up with the straight edge, etc., then waited until the net day to cut it.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Kaleb, I bought that saw only for the waterfall affect on some of my projects only.. Its like having an up-side-down table saw; a kickback can literally cost you an arm and a leg. But the thing is decent.


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

Charles, I understand where you are coming from. I have "slept on it" a couple times before proceeding with a cut. It's not like using dimensional lumber where you can just grab another board.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

That was the smallest saw they had when I climbed up the jack in the bean stalk.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

CharlesA, I still can't figure out why you chanced doing that double blind joint; and to be honest, I don't know how you did it… Can you elaborate??


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## vikingcape (Jan 3, 2013)

Charles, you really knocked it out of the park with that waterfall table. That joint came out perfect.


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

MrJinx, "Why did I do the hidden multiple spline joint?"

1) I was concerned that just gluing the 45° angle waterfall joint would not be strong enough
2) I asked in a thread her on LJ's for ideas.
3) the hidden multiple spline joint looked to be really strong
4) I got the Tage Frid book that shows how to do the joint, and I thought it was doable
5) b/c the joint is hidden, I also thought that if I messed up a bit, it would be fixable, not show, and still be strong

How do you do waterfall joints?


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Thanks Charles for the input… I was just trying to say that I would have been very hesitant to try that joint on my waterfall project and wanted to know how you got the courage to do it, which you explained very well. In this project, I used a drawer to fasten the leg to the top; aside from the 4" glue up on the 45 degree. Without that book you mentioned, I don't think I would ever attempt that joint. I still want to know exactly how you accomplished it.


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

Courage? Maybe naïveté. I figured.if it didn't work I'd do two conventional legs.

See entries 4-10. http://lumberjocks.com/CharlesA/blog/41934


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

So, I went ahead and made the front of the table with this design which has almost become my signature.










And I like to ask your opinion; should I go ahead and seal the top with something while I figure out the rest of the construction… My worry is that we are getting into the rainy season and I am worried about the top warping.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Charles, as I said on your blog, "I am going to order that book for my wife"!


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Charles, I guess what I din't get is where those extra "prongs" come from if the board was cut at 45 degrees???


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

You Just cut some splines from other stock.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Got it… Sort of like biscuits.


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

Sort of. Mine were 1/2" thick. Provided glue surface with structural integrity.


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## distrbd (Sep 14, 2011)

I have two slabs of pine 2" thick ,18" wide,5 ' long,my wife wants me to used them as shelve with the live edge and all,one end will have to be cut if I decide to attach them to the living room wall.
I am thinking of using these "2 taper connectors so the shelve will look like floating type with no fasteners,anchors showing.
Would you think the weight of these shelves will be too much for any type of floating shelf supports?
I could get these blind shelf supports:









What do you all think?


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

I'm making some natural edge picture frames. Do I get to join? Pictures will be a while.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

The design ensures that the alloy steel coupling screws remain tensioned between the posts and inserts in the plates, yielding a respectable capacity of 100 lb for a 4" deep shelf and up to 50 lb at 8" deep*.

Additional supports are sold singly for increasing load capacity on shelves long enough to span more than two studs; each extra support adds 50 lb more
capacity at 4" deep, and 25 lb more at 8" deep*.http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?p=51933&cat=3,43648,43649









Well Ken, I'd call Lee Valley and see if the hardware mentioned could handle your requirements.

I'd feel better if you had some live edge corbels to support the span of your shelf.

"Would you think the weight of these shelves will be too much for any type of floating shelf supports?"

Yes


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Welcome firefighterontheside. Ken, if you are going to utilize the entire 5' section for self, assuming your studs are 16" apart, you should have plenty of weight distribution provide you put one on each stud.


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## distrbd (Sep 14, 2011)

The floating shelves I see now a days are usually no wider than 8",the wider ones are hollow ,even the narrower ones are not all solid,I just have to convince my wife of this fact since she wants these shelves to be 10" -12"solid pine,I thought some of you might have tried it with 4 or 6 of these supports on 10" to 12" wide shelves. .


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

Hey jinx, I would go ahead and seal the tabletop. Least chance of problems.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

I think if the insert goes half ways, lets say 6" into a 12' board, you will still be AOK so long as the self is not weighted down with 200 lb of books.. I assume the shelf is going to hold just a few things. Wide boards have a tendency to cup a certain way and you can use that to your advantage.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Monte, that was my exact thought and thanks for the conformation. I went ahead and sealed the whole thing with lacquer and found two problematic spots. One is around a knot where the hand plane lifted up a 1/4" sliver. And the other part is around one corner which I think I ca fix using a steel "card". So, I went ahead and cut the legs for this project from a walnut board. Some of them have this center lines from the core that are hollow:









Andthey will look like this:








Here are the four legs rough cut:









Then I found this weird looking shaped walnut to use as facing between the legs:


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## distrbd (Sep 14, 2011)

Thanks Mahdy.
Sorry ,I wasn't aware of your conversation on your project,totally went over my head.too wrapped up in mine,lol.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

distrbd, I meant for this forum to be a natural edge discussion. so, what you post is totally relevant.


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## Nubsnstubs (Aug 30, 2013)

> with lacquer and found two problematic spots. One is around a knot where the hand plane lifted up a 1/4" sliver. And the other part is around one corner which I think I ca fix using a steel "card".
> - mrjinx007


Jinx, if you would have used a belt sander at the begenning of this, you wouldn't have had the lift. I would have been nice and smooth. heeheh…...... Jerry (in Tucson)


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## vikingcape (Jan 3, 2013)

Those are very interesting legs Mr. Jinx. How are you attaching it


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## vikingcape (Jan 3, 2013)

Dry fit for the headboard. Going to be pegged with cherry dowels. Question, should i glue the pegs only? Im assuming i should not glue the breadboard tenons because of seasonal movement?


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Nice looking headboard Kaleb!


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

Are you making elongated holes in the headboard tenons and then putting dowels through the legs. I've never done this but have read about it. When accounting for movement I like to fix the center of the panel with glue and then let the movement go either way from the center. This assures that the panel always stays centered. Does that make sense?


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

Oh yeah that is nice.
Here's my first natural edge piece. Cherry picture frame cut from a piece of termite infested wood given to me by another LJ. I was able to cut it at my bandsaw and get some usable pieces. I used two pieces to make this and managed to have the grain continuous all the way around, though it's hard to see.


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## vikingcape (Jan 3, 2013)

Yes elongated holes eventually. I am trying to do everything to account for movement.

Thanks waho


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Kaleb, I think if you allow 1/32 or slightly more room in the mortises, you should be AOK gluing the tenons. The movements are more likely to be from the width than length. Lets assume the two legs and the headboard are one piece. The horizontal expansions and contractions would not occur regardless of how the mortise and tenons are joint together, rather, the ability of the legs to have enough movements to at base to endure the movements. I would be more worried about the "Y" axis movement than the "X" one.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

This last weekend we had our official opening of our studio and had about 25 visitors ranging from 6 individual per visitor to two. I was exciting and exhausting since the visitor's hours were 8 hours long. We met a bunch of nice folks from various parts of neighboring states and locally as well. 
Anyways, I ended up trying to sand the top of the desk that I had coated with Lacquer only to find out that the stuff rolls like dead skin as though it had had not dried in 24 hours. I am assuming I need to wait about 2 weeks or longer for the lacquer to dry before it is ready to sand… Maybe 4 weeks? CRAP!

Meanwhile, I went ahead and cut the "face board" for the table:









Nubsnstubs, You are correct; but how much belt sanding does it take to remove 1/2" of wood? In order for me to get rid of this splinter now, I have to sand another 1/8-1/4". Any ideas?


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

My thoughts initially was to make it into a symmetrical shape but I didn't want to lose these waves:









So,I am thinking to make the front to look natural edge at the bottom with the bark intact:


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

firefighterontheside, I am still trying to figure out what the picture is?


> And those termites are mighty tasty; They taste like nuts, maybe I should say, nutty


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

So my son entered into a photography contest and took a picture of his Star Wars Legos set in the woods as if they were on the forest moon of Endor. That's one of the speeder bikes from the return of the Jedi. There's no Ewoks though!


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Maybe like this^?


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## Nubsnstubs (Aug 30, 2013)

> Nubsnstubs, You are correct; but how much belt sanding does it take to remove 1/2" of wood? In order for me to get rid of this splinter now, I have to sand another 1/8-1/4". Any ideas?
> - mrjinx007


 Maybe a router set up with a slide type thing that some people use to level eneven surfaces. If it has a cord, I can figure out how to do it, but if a tool can't be plugged in, I'm a lost puppy.

I actually take all my glue ups to a shop that has a wide belt sander. I get everything sanded to 150, and then orbit sand to 120. Don't ask. I'm still working on that.

Jinx, I went back and read what your problem is. If the sliver is still there, glue it back in like the other thing you're doing. If you don't have it, make one, and put it in with CA. Sand it down, and you're done. That would be better than sanding or routing off a 1/4" thickness. ..... Jerry (in Tucson)


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Kaleb, I think I got my X any Y backwards. Jerry, I think I'll be the only one that will notice it. Will take picture of it when I get home. I do want to make one of those sleds for sure. Here is the one I have in mind.


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## Nubsnstubs (Aug 30, 2013)

Jinx, that's what I had in mind. I built one once, and used my trailer sides as my heigth supports. Problem was, the trailer bottom is expanded metal and a little flexible. I had to build up the bottom some, but what I was trying to level was Mesquite tree stumps for table bases. I ended up with one at 13 1/2" and the second one at 15" high. The 13 1/2" is too short unless it becomes a lobby table or gets a wood top, but the 15" is the right heigth. My plan was to get glass cut and shaped to follow the natrual shape of the stump with a 3" overhang with polished edges. I'll get a picture later today of the stump halves….... Jerry (in Tucson)


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

So here is that splinter:


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

I am thinking about two choices I have to connect the face board to the legs. One is to dovetail it on the inside:









The other is to make it into a mortise and tenon which is going to be a heck of a task following those curves:









Personally, I am thinking the mortise and tenon because I am a sick person. But logically, I am leaning towards the back side dovetail. Any suggestions?


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## vikingcape (Jan 3, 2013)

You could really have some fun and do through tenons.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Kaleb, you just killed me with your suggestion. During our tour, I promised to make several of my work in kits because folks couldn't fit them in their vehicles. A through tenon on this thing would be absolutely beautiful… Thanks for the suggestion.


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

Thought I would show a counter top of Beetle Kill Pine.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Wow Monte, 
that looks really nice and thick. I think the thickness really compliments the width of the boards. How do you ensure those beetles are dead? I have had a few pieces that after finishing them, started to see wood powder. They ate right through 8 coats of poly.


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

With Beetle Kill Pine, the bark beetle does not bore into the wood. In fact after the tree dies the leave. However, the Imp beetle likes to eat dead pine trees. They do bore into the wood. Usually they leave after the tree is cut up.


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## vikingcape (Jan 3, 2013)

That is really nice Monte. That wood is really nice. I've only ever seen it online, never had a chance to work with it yet


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

> Anyways, I ended up trying to sand the top of the desk that I had coated with Lacquer only to find out that the stuff rolls like dead skin as though it had had not dried in 24 hours. I am assuming I need to wait about 2 weeks or longer for the lacquer to dry before it is ready to sand… Maybe 4 weeks? CRAP!
> 
> - mrjinx007


Whoa, what kind was it? Lacquer usually dries very fast unless you put on a lot of coats. Like if you put on 20 coats then you should wait 2 weeks or so. And it's not strictly necessary to sand between coats as new layers will melt into previous layers.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Rick, not sure of the name I think it was deft, from HD. I put one coat, waited till next day and put another coat. Next day when I tried to sand it, it just gummed up. Ended up using a card to get the loose stuff out and am waiting till this weekend to see if it will sand. I am fairly new to lacquer and thought it would be nice not having to sand in between like poly.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

If you look at my #60 post, second picture, the pink stuff is bondo I used to fill a large worm hole and some small ones. Any idea what to use to match the color that lacquer top coat won't screw up?


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

Is it possible that you put lacquer over polyurethane? That would cause your finish to do that.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Monte, No, I sanded it with 80, 100, and 220, dusted it off and brushed the lacquer. And it has been in the mid 80's here since.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

I would take it back and buy some elsewhere, I suspect you got a bad batch.


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

And there is nothing under that lacquer?


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Nothing but wood Charles.. All I can think of is maybe I applied the coats too thick.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

So, the walnut facing was a really bad idea. All i can say, is that it looked horrible to both me and my wife. That project is going to go somewhere else. I don't think this table is wanting to be natural edge and I know I am mostly in fault. 
So, I went ahead and made a cardboard mock up of what would look like between the legs and it looked AOK.









Next I got a cherry board and using my french rules, I came up with a pattern that was appealing:










Unfortunately, the days are getting shorter and shorter and this was as far as I was able to go today.


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

Someone near me just posted a boatload of live edge pieces. When I see wood stored this way it makes me nervous. What do you think?

http://louisville.craigslist.org/mat/4691818552.html


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Hmm, good looking stack. And a fire extinguisher nearby, or attached; just in case? What kind of wood is it?


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Never mind, walnut. hmmm, tempting.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

There is a guy near by me who has quoted me $4600 for a 46" band saw that I am drooling on. upon talking to the local logger whom I have known for 26 years, they are reluctant to bringing me tree crouches that they leave to rot or use for firewood for $2/bf. They get less than a $1 for their harvest at the mill. And I am thinking, what is wrong with these people.


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

He said it is POPLAR, MAPLE, WALNUT. I don't think natural edge poplar would be all that good. Maple, it would depend. I like maple, but it wouldn't have a lot of the natural variation that makes natural edge look good. That leaves the walnut.


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## vikingcape (Jan 3, 2013)

As long as it has not been outside too long. My sawyer keeps things outside, but he says only the right time to have spalting start. Bring a block plane and check it out


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

I must be feeling dense. What precisely would I be checking with the block plane?


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Kaleb, a sharp knife does the same thing:









I have picked some amazing wood that was about to be thrown away because to the sawyer, it was worthless but to us woodworkers it is precious at times. Here is a give away I got with a purchase.


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## vikingcape (Jan 3, 2013)

Just check a few areas. End of the board, middle and the like. You might find some jems


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

Poplar can be very beautiful also. Usually after a few years of sitting before sawing.


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

Monte, that is some beautiful poplar. All I've seen in person is "paintable."


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

Most poplar I won't cut up for 2-3 years of sitting outside. Mother nature adds a lot of character.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

I ended up redesigning my project since the straight legs just didn't look all that great. Also, changed the leg-bottom design. So far no natural edge except a little bark on the back side of the table top:



















The final product is going to look something like this:










Am still waiting for the lacquer to dry on the table top. My best bet maybe to remove it and start over. If I want to spray the lacquer, do I thin it and at what ratio? The can doesn't give any suggestion.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Tomorrow, I am on my way coming back from work to checkout this mill, I am stopping at this place where they adverts cypress lumber for $1.25 a BF. I've never worked with cypress and they claim it last forever. Is this true? My plan is to make some outdoor furniture which I've done with white oak. Is cypress a better choice than white oak??


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## vikingcape (Jan 3, 2013)

Never worked with cypress before Mr. Jinx, but I have heard that it is a great outdoor wood. But being that it can be sunk in water for many years and then used, speaks to its ability as a durable wood.

Found this picture (12 pictures down on the page) called "live edge maple mountain sideboard" and would love to try something like this soon. Haven't really done doors before other than a flat piece of plywood with a handle on it for shop doors, so it would be good practice. But this piece really struck me. Have to finish my bed first though. Either way this website has some great inspiration

http://flickriver.com/photos/liveedge/popular-interesting/


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Thanks Kaleb,
I have seen that site before, they sure have some nice looking furniture. I am on my way to this place to purchase some cypress. I think the prices are reasonable especially the random stuff for 96 cents a BF. I plan on making a few outdoor benches like








in a kit form to see if they sell. 
I wonder if I need to get a thicker seat boards than the one on the picture which are white oak?


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## LiveEdge (Dec 18, 2013)

Well, the bigleaf maple slab finally arrived on Sunday. I couldn't help but to throw an orbital sander on a spot for a few minutes and then some mineral spirits to see some of the figure jump out. Woo hoo! As much as I want to mess with it, I'm going to let it sit until I have the body of the desk built and then I'll flatten it with a router sled (something I haven't done before and am sure I'll have a few questions about). One other question: If I want to keep the edges with the cambium (which is what I assume is causing that nice mottled look), how best to seal that?


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## vikingcape (Jan 3, 2013)

Mr. Jinx, those look like amazing prices. I would definitely pick up some for that.

Live Edge that is one nice piece. Can't wait to see what you are doing with it


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Thanks Kaleb. Almost the same price as construction lumber @HD. LiveEdge, I've never sealed that area. It may take additional applications of whatever you finish it with though. Beautiful wood, doesn't look like the maple I am used to seeing when I lived in New England.


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## DonBoston (May 25, 2014)

2" thick poplar, horrible picture but the table was amazing.


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## LiveEdge (Dec 18, 2013)

Jinx, they can get pretty amazing here in the Pacific Northwest. Here's a web shot I found of a nice example in the Olympic National Park.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Wow, that is some tree. I suppose they don't produce maple syrup like the ones on the east coast. I used to tap birch trees in Alaska to substitute for maple syrup.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

DonBoston, how did you finish the edge on that table; anything special?


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

Most people hate poplar. I have some really awesome pieces like that for colors.


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## DonBoston (May 25, 2014)

> DonBoston, how did you finish the edge on that table; anything special?
> 
> - mrjinx007


I left it with a rough sand and just a couple coats of poly. The ends and the back cut were sanded down to 400, but the front edge only to 80. I wanted to leave the branch nubs, thought they looked cool.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Yes, they do… I have done the same thing and just needed some conformation to LiveEdge's question.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

I went 50 miles out of my way to find that sawmill and couldn't find the place. One thing about this neck of the woods, even the locals couldn't tell me where the place was. I recall calling this guy to do some business with. After he gave me directions on how to get a "holt" of him, I went to this cafe and asked this guy where I could find "Jr." He said,"I've never heard of tha fller". I said, " just spoke with him and was suppose to meet him here." He paused a bit and said, "oh, that would be me". Oh, well, I will try again nest wick.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

9/30 something and it is 10/14 now. I am thinking that the lacquer has surely dried by now since I used a card scraper to remove most of the finish 3 weeks ago- wrong… I started with the 4" belt sander and this was the result:


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Try setting it in the hot sun for a few hours. Turn it occasionally.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Then I switched back to the card and it really clogged it up. So, I switched to my planer and even that got clogged up. Will continue to strip all the finish off and start all over again. I know I can take the can back to HD and get my $8 back but, that is not covering all my setbacks. 









At lest I got rid of that splinter:


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Rick, I will try that if we ever get a sunny day.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

Mesquite Live Edge

This is my very first live edge end table, am currently in the process of making the matching live edge coffee table to match, this was also my very first mortis and tenon joints.


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## Nubsnstubs (Aug 30, 2013)

Hey Mahdee Jinx, lacquer isn't really sandable, no matter how old it is. Sanding sealer is, but not the top coat. If you need to remove the top coat, soak the area you're trying to sand with lacquer thinner , wipe it off, repeat if necessary until you're convinced you can sand the surface without clogging a belt. Use an orbit sander first because the paper is cheaper than sanding belts. If you see no buildup on the paper, then use the belt sander. 
When you were clogging your belt, was removing that splinter your goal? ............. Jerry (in Tucson)


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Randy,
I think for the first time getting out of the box, you have done an excellent job. What dimensions do you plan to make your coffee table?


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

Thanks Mijinx, the coffee table is 38" x 25" not a big table but the room it's going in is a single car converted garage, 12' wide so it should work nice in there, the table slab is complete I'm now clamped and drying the legs and skit together, next will be a live edge mesquite wall table to complete the set.

A couple months back I was at a local woodworker meeting and one of the seasoned fellows told me when building furniture you want to build it strong and sturdy enough so that you'd be able to have a good round of sex on top of it


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

One of my next projects will be making a conference table out of these 2 maple slabs.



















Hopefully with a base that resembles this










Just waiting to hear from the customer if I completely cut out the center and put another piece in. She doesn't want the "V" at the end.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Jerry,
Thanks for the info. As I had stated earlier, this was my first experience with lacquer and really don't understand the stuff. In the past few days I have been spraying the legs with lacquer and can sand smooth within 1-2 hours. Just like poly but a lot faster. The stuff on the table top were brushed on and my thinking is either the stuff in the can is bad or I brushed it too heavy and it gelled or something. I will try your suggestion for sure. Deft can doesn't have any instructions on how to use their product in a spray gun. If you have any info on that, please let me know as the rattler cans are a lot more expensive. I assume it needs to be thinned. I used the belt sander initially; probably a bad idea thinking "it must be dry by now". Once I got to use the planer, I went ahead and cleared the splinter; it would have bugged me all my life event though I would be the only person to notice it.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Monte, that will be gorgeous. Can you put some sort of insert in the v part? Do you cut your own lumber? I like to see the process as you go.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Randy, I've never made a table for a whorehouse, but the guy is right, you never know what or how is going to be used. Like to see the your process as well.


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

About 4-1\2 inches will be trimmed off each inside. Then a 9 inch piece will be put in the center. Not what I would like, but it's what the customer wants.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

Monte, seems as though you are moving higher into larger furniture  grats!


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

My idol is Nakashima. I will probably never attain that level, but gotta keep learning.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

I'll take some before pictures on the build process.


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

Oddly, I am known for the Beetle kill pine, but I got into cutting my own wood so that I could quit using pine. But the beetles are comfortably paying bills while I work towards the other.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

Monte, I just went and glanced at Nakashima, I noticed on his/her coffee tables no bottom shelving just legs only, I'm planning on putting bottom shelving on my tables, I do like the designs though and you're as well is very nice.


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## Nubsnstubs (Aug 30, 2013)

Jinx Mahdee, Deft doesn't give the spray info. I've haven't figured out yet why they don't, but it does spray. I have used it, but can't remember if I just sprayed at "package consistency or mixed it.
When you spray it with a conventional gun with pressure pot and hoses, if it leaves a powdery look, especially in corners, then you need to mix it until you get that glassy look immediately after a spray pass. 30 pounds pressure in the tank, and 40 - 50 pounds air pressure is my ratio for a uniform glkassy look until it dries . If it's a glossy lacquer, it will stay glossy, and satin will be satin. Use 1 coat sealer, sand, and minimum of 2 coats top coat. Sand in between coats if you choose to do so. Do not spray lacquer on super humid days unless you use retarder… 
As I said, I don't remember the mix, but on regular lacquer and sanding sealer, my mix is 1 part lacquer, 1 part thinner. I never have a problem. I started spraying lacquer back in the mid '60's, and still use it today as my choice indoor finish. 
Deft is a fair finish, but lacquer is better. I use water clear Maclac sealer and topcoat. They have different types of topcoats to choose from. You can also get the regular stuff that has an amber color to it, and yellows over time. You can even get tinted or colored lacquer if that's what you want…...... Jerry (in Tucson)


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## vikingcape (Jan 3, 2013)

So Mr. Pittman, that should be a small table I'm guessing (hahahaha). Some gorgeous slabs.

I was looking at hearne hardwoods and they had an english wych elm slab. WOW! If I only had billions of dollars to get those.

http://www.hearnehardwoods.com/flitch/english.wych.elm/a5491-a5500.english.wych.elm/flitch.html


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

kaleb, We use wood like that for firewood all the time. I bet they do the same with maple back east. Just a matter of having a 4-$5000 sawmill to cut wood like that which most sawmills reject and land owners are happy to sell as firewood. Sad, but true.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Jerry, thanks a lot for all the info. I really like the looks of lacquer it can be sprayed to make a very shiny (plastic look as some call it) or have it show the grain. It dries very fast so you can do your 3-4 coats within a few hours and it sands well. I think I am done with poly except for those surfaces that are exposed to water.


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

Kaleb, if you didn't live so far away I would give you a couple slabs to play with. I have some awesome big elm slabs. The shipping would kill us though.

Mrjinx is right. Most of the really cool logs I get, the lumber yards wouldn't touch. They would be firewood.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

I came home today and instead of taking my frustrations on my dog who will bite me if I kicked him, or my cat who will scratch me if I don't tend to him, or my wife whom will, well, I don't have to explain that, or to take it out of my kids who will make me compensate them monetary, I decided to take my frustration out using my hand planes despite good advice from you folks; and that was a good thinking on my part. A little of of a workout for me to make me feel like a man. Well, 3 hours of good upper body workout. So, I grabbed my jack plane and went at it:









Then I used my smaller plane to remove the lines from the jack plane. Talk about eating my words of refusing to make this piece any thinner.



















Next, I went from 60 grit to 80 with a variable sander.










Then hand-sanded from 100 to 150 to 220 going with the grain:









Here is what it looks like as of tonight before I called it quits;I think it is ready for the spray tomorrow:


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## vikingcape (Jan 3, 2013)

Think of all the amazing wood burned…........scary

Mr. Pittman if I lived closer to you I would hover around your place like a seagull for scraps of your slabs.

M. Jinx, that wood came out smooth as glass. Beautiful


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Thanks Kaleb. Hope to take picture of the almost finished product by tonight or tomorrow. I still have match the color on those bondo filled areas.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Here is the final product. Please give credit to where credit is due if you choose to use this concept. Thanks


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

In case you have not figured it out this a night-light desk.. It lights up at night.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Jinx, Very unusual design but turned out very NICE!


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

gfadvm, thank you sir. It has a light sensor that make it glow at night.


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## FlyFisher70 (Oct 16, 2014)

I read through this forum and there are some awesome projects! Thanks for sharing. I have a couple walnut slabs that I joined together. Most of the bark came off nicely and left a great edge, but there are a few spots where the bark is stuck on there and is almost splintery. Does anyone have any tricks for getting that off and down to a nice bare edge?

Also, as you can see on the end around the bark inclusion and around the knots, the belt sander did a pretty good job of burning the wood despite trying to only take off very minimal amounts. I have tried sanding them for hours, but to no avail. Are there any other tricks or suggestions to getting those burn marks out?


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Looks awesome Fly. Hard to tell by the picture, but the dark area doesn't look like a burn, rather the nature of the wood. If it is burned, you can apply some water over it to raise the grain and use a card scraper very gently. I have used bleach water in the past with good success as well. Bit then you may end up with a slight depression in that area which means sanding the rest of the table to even things out. Try a wire brush on the hairy stuff from the bark.


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

Angle grinder with wire brush for stubborn bark.


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## FlyFisher70 (Oct 16, 2014)

Jinx and Charles, thanks for the advice, I will definitely give that a try this weekend.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

And wear your eye protection (full face shield) with that wire wheel on the angle grinder!!! They will shed some projectiles!


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## vikingcape (Jan 3, 2013)

Footboard coming along. Have my plane working great. Paper thin shavings


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Kaleb, coming along nice. Do you plan on staining it? That would be a dilemma for me.


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## vikingcape (Jan 3, 2013)

No stain. I am doing a danish oil and then a clear varnish. It's tried and true finish. I tried it on some scrap and its beautiful


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

I like Danish oil with poly or lacquer


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

I am all for an easy finish and danish oil promises that. It will be the finish of choice for my next project. I used 6 cans of lacquer to finish my last project at $8 a can.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Monte, do you put the poly/lacquer over the oil like you do with teak oil or varnish?


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

I let it dry, then put the other finish over it.

Question for you folks. I have been shipping lumber to LJ Old Wrangler in Houston. Shipping via UPS is double the cost of the wood. Any suggestions of a better way?


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Freight companies can ship large quantities for a lot less. If it has to be delivered to residential roadside, it cost more. But if it is shipped to a freight platform, it is dirt cheap.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Ship business to business.


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