# Workbench Finish?



## JL7 (Apr 13, 2010)

Sometime ago I came across a recipe of BLO, Turpentine and Beeswax for a workbench finish - I just can't remember the ratios. I have used it in the past and I like the results, but beware the stink…..

I am thinking it was probably equal parts BLO and Turpentine and a handful of shaved Beeswax, but not sure?

Anyone?

Thanks.

Jeff


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## WoodArtbyJR (Apr 13, 2010)

Jeff,
After reading your post I got to thinking (this is bad, me thinking). Why not use the same thing us cutting board makers use, mineral oil & beeswax. The mineral oil penetrates the wood and then the beeswax helps to seal the final coat. I would heat the mineral oil & apply MANY coats (10 or more), until the wood stopped soaking it in. Then apply a final coat of heated mineral oil & beeswax combonation (about a 60/40 split). When this last coat cools it will look like a paste has been applied. Wipe off the excess and let it sit for a bit before using the bench top. You can apply more of the final coat if the top starts to look dry (just like a cutting board). No smell on this one. Use unrefined beeswax and you'll get a slight honey smell, not unpleasant.
Another method is the Woodwisperer's mineral spirits method. You can google it and find his video post on it.

Just some thoughts

Jim


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## JL7 (Apr 13, 2010)

Hey Jim - thanks for the suggestion…..but I've used the other and I really like it.

I spent some time on Google and I think I found the recipe and I quote:

"Shave a hen's-egg-size chunk of beeswax (about 2-ounces) into thin strips using a knife or food grater. Put the beeswax shavings into a pint (16-ounces) of pure gum turpentine and cover until the wax is dissolved into a butter-like blend. Next, add an equal volume of BLO and stir until the mixture is combined into a thick liquid. Brush or wipe the blend over your workbench and allow the "finish" to be absorbed into the wood for an hour or two before you squeegee off the excess. (Put the excess in a tightly sealed container-it is still good and can be used to renew the finish in the future.) Allow the finish to "cure" for a few days and then buff to a soft shine. The original version of this very old recipe called for raw linseed oil. This finish, or something very close to this finish, was most probably used on most of the surviving 18th and 19th century work benches."

Full article is here.

This stuff really works great and I put it on all the shop stuff…...

Jeff


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Very good Jeff I am defiantly going to have to try this.


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## mrtoasty (Jan 13, 2011)

Thats the one, it works great as you know. I wouldn't use anything else.

Les


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Any idea what the turpentine adds to the final result (other than the smell)? There are several 'wood nourishers/restorers' that contain turpentine, BLO, and wax and I never have heard an explanation for the turp???


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

I used the bees wax / BLO / Turpentine mixture on my bench … looks great after almost 2 years.

-Gerry


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## JL7 (Apr 13, 2010)

gfadvm - Don't know squat about finishing, but the turpentine does keep the beewax in solution - over time the wax will return to a solid but some aggitation and a bit of time will dissolve it again.

Can't find the exact article right now, but the point was that Pure Gum Turpentine is the only solvent for this use…..

I mixed up a quart or so two years ago, and have been using it ever since and still seems to work well…..now it's time for a fresh batch.

My recommendation here - clean the shop - remove the clutter and coat everything you need, for me two coats seems to go a long ways…...It works on a wide variety of wood, from pine to exotics. it is smelly, but effective 

Jeff


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Sounds like a gr8 recipe. I'm gonna give it a try also


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## judgesawdust (Mar 21, 2011)

Any idea what the turpentine adds to the final result (other than the smell)? There are several 'wood nourishers/restorers' that contain turpentine, BLO, and wax and I never have heard an explanation for the turp??

The turpentine breaks down (or melts) the beeswax . . .


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

This same combo was published in the Timber Framers Journal years ago as an excellent finish for exposed timber posts and beams. I always wanted to refinish my frame with it.

Now I'm motivated to mix some up and give it a try on my recently rehabbed bench.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Thanks guys, I learned something today!


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## Rick Dennington (Aug 27, 2009)

My main work bench is made of Douglas fir, and the top is 4 layers of MDF to make it 3" thick…..

All I did to my top was put 2 coats of Watco danish Oil first, letting each coat dry good, then 6 coats of quick-dry polyurethane….The danish oil turns the MDF top a nice brown color, and the poly finishes it off….It's a little slick at first, but gets better with time…..It's been on there 3 yeas, and still looks good…...

On the work bench frame: I just used about 3 coats of a 50/50 tung oil and mineral spirits mixture…..


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Do you really want wax all over your workbench? If it gets onto your work piece and you finish with lacquer or varnish it could cause problems.


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## JL7 (Apr 13, 2010)

wormil - the volume of wax by volume is pretty low - never had any problems with wax build up on the work pieces…

I think if you try it you'd like it


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

wormil-When the BLO/Bees Wax/Turpentine brew cures (takes about a week) and get's buffed, there is very little residual on the surface. What you wind up with is a smooth, slick surface that glue doesn't stick to. Yoiu probably get more wax on your workpieces from the wax you use to dress the sole of your hand planes.

Never had a problem with my bench, however I never sand or finish on the workbench … I have a plywood table that I use for that.

Here is a link to the article I found on this subject:
http://hardwoodlumberandmore.com/Articles/ArticleViewPage/tabid/75/ArticleId/18/Workbench-Finish.aspx

-Gerry


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## JL7 (Apr 13, 2010)

Thanks Gerry - very well stated!


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## riverguy (Sep 30, 2012)

Ultra-durable workbench finish: Since I'm kinda lazy, I always look for the easy way. About 15 years ago I built a new shop bench. It's a very heavy bench, on heavy-duty wheels, and has compartments and shelves for all sorts of tools, supplies, pipe clamps, etc. It's also wired with a 100V outlet at each corner so it just needs one cord plugged into the wall and I have the convenience of an outlet within easy reach wherever I'm working at the bench. It has a heavy-duty wood vise at one end, too. The top is 3/4 MDF. I permanently installed a sheet of underlayment plywood on top of the table and the MDF was screwed to the ply from underneath. My thinking was I would probably have to replace the MDF in a year or two, so it should be easy. To minimize chipping of the edges, I ran a 3/8" radius round-over bit around the whole top. Over the course of a few days of warm weather, I applied four generous coats of satin Minwax Spar Varnish, sanding lightly with 220/random-orbit between coats. I let the final coat dry for a few more days before using the surface. Since that day, I have used and abused that surface with more projects than I care to remember. I've spilled solvents on it, rebuilt a Harley engine on it, assembled lots of furniture and then cleaned off the subsequent dried glue drips, even carelessly cut on it with a utility knife. The bench has also survived five moves to new shop locations, one across the ocean! After 15 years of this, it still looks good, has no defects other than minor scrapes and scratches, and is still a delightful work surface. The way it's holding up, I may never have to refinish it!


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