# Great News for end grain cutting board makers!



## woodsmithshop (Sep 10, 2008)

*Great News for end grain cutting board makers!*

I may not be the first to discover this, but I did learn this on my own, and I am exited about it, I'll start from the beginning, 
I am sure that many of you that build end grain cutting boards have the same problem, sanding the boards after the glue up, I use my G1066 drum sander, (which I just upgraded with the kit to change the drums to Hook and Loop,) the problem has been that after leveling the CB, deep scratches are left behind that takes forever to sand out, I use 80 grit on the first drum, and 100 grit on the second drum, then I go to my ROS, and switch to 40 grit, then step up to each grit until the CB is as smooth as I want it, usually 150 or 220 grit.
today I started out sanding a fresh glued up CB, then started with my ROS and 40 grit, after about 45 min I still had a few scratches showing, about to change to a new disk, I thought I would try spritzing the CB lightly with water, waiting until there was no standing water on the CB, I started sanding again, after a couple of minutes the scratches were gone, thinking I may have just got lucky, I turned the CB over and sprayed water on the other side, giving it a couple of minutes so as not to have any standing water, I started sanding again, with the same old disk, after 3 or 4 min a lot of the scratches were gone, then putting on a new disk and respraying with water I sanded some more, in about 5 min all of the heavy scratches were gone, now I can start changing grits and finish the job much sooner, what a time saver.

I guess the water softens the fibers enough that the sander cuts them off much quicker.

I hope that some of you try this and see for yourself how well this works.
I was getting to the point where I dreaded starting a new end grain CB.

some of you may already know this, but I just found out and wanted to share this with all of you.
btw, changing to the Hook and Loop was a great idea, so much easier to change sandpaper now.


----------



## jap (Oct 10, 2012)

woodsmithshop said:


> *Great News for end grain cutting board makers!*
> 
> I may not be the first to discover this, but I did learn this on my own, and I am exited about it, I'll start from the beginning,
> I am sure that many of you that build end grain cutting boards have the same problem, sanding the boards after the glue up, I use my G1066 drum sander, (which I just upgraded with the kit to change the drums to Hook and Loop,) the problem has been that after leveling the CB, deep scratches are left behind that takes forever to sand out, I use 80 grit on the first drum, and 100 grit on the second drum, then I go to my ROS, and switch to 40 grit, then step up to each grit until the CB is as smooth as I want it, usually 150 or 220 grit.
> ...


interesting idea, thanks


----------



## Tokolosi (Dec 14, 2011)

woodsmithshop said:


> *Great News for end grain cutting board makers!*
> 
> I may not be the first to discover this, but I did learn this on my own, and I am exited about it, I'll start from the beginning,
> I am sure that many of you that build end grain cutting boards have the same problem, sanding the boards after the glue up, I use my G1066 drum sander, (which I just upgraded with the kit to change the drums to Hook and Loop,) the problem has been that after leveling the CB, deep scratches are left behind that takes forever to sand out, I use 80 grit on the first drum, and 100 grit on the second drum, then I go to my ROS, and switch to 40 grit, then step up to each grit until the CB is as smooth as I want it, usually 150 or 220 grit.
> ...


I'm definitely trying this! Thanks


----------



## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

woodsmithshop said:


> *Great News for end grain cutting board makers!*
> 
> I may not be the first to discover this, but I did learn this on my own, and I am exited about it, I'll start from the beginning,
> I am sure that many of you that build end grain cutting boards have the same problem, sanding the boards after the glue up, I use my G1066 drum sander, (which I just upgraded with the kit to change the drums to Hook and Loop,) the problem has been that after leveling the CB, deep scratches are left behind that takes forever to sand out, I use 80 grit on the first drum, and 100 grit on the second drum, then I go to my ROS, and switch to 40 grit, then step up to each grit until the CB is as smooth as I want it, usually 150 or 220 grit.
> ...


As a maker of many endgrain boards, I have not heard of this before but will give it a go…. thanks for bringing this to our attention… well done…


----------



## woodsmithshop (Sep 10, 2008)

woodsmithshop said:


> *Great News for end grain cutting board makers!*
> 
> I may not be the first to discover this, but I did learn this on my own, and I am exited about it, I'll start from the beginning,
> I am sure that many of you that build end grain cutting boards have the same problem, sanding the boards after the glue up, I use my G1066 drum sander, (which I just upgraded with the kit to change the drums to Hook and Loop,) the problem has been that after leveling the CB, deep scratches are left behind that takes forever to sand out, I use 80 grit on the first drum, and 100 grit on the second drum, then I go to my ROS, and switch to 40 grit, then step up to each grit until the CB is as smooth as I want it, usually 150 or 220 grit.
> ...


Larry, after writing this blog I went back and changed my disk from 40 grit to 100 grit, then sanded and the CB was as smooth as if I had went through all the grits, I then put mineral spirits on it and it showed NO scratches, I was amazed at how well this worked, I hope it works on all woods, I used Hickory, Walnut, and Maple on this board.
I was afraid I might make mud, but no problem. 
let me know how it works for you.


----------



## inchanga (Aug 13, 2012)

woodsmithshop said:


> *Great News for end grain cutting board makers!*
> 
> I may not be the first to discover this, but I did learn this on my own, and I am exited about it, I'll start from the beginning,
> I am sure that many of you that build end grain cutting boards have the same problem, sanding the boards after the glue up, I use my G1066 drum sander, (which I just upgraded with the kit to change the drums to Hook and Loop,) the problem has been that after leveling the CB, deep scratches are left behind that takes forever to sand out, I use 80 grit on the first drum, and 100 grit on the second drum, then I go to my ROS, and switch to 40 grit, then step up to each grit until the CB is as smooth as I want it, usually 150 or 220 grit.
> ...


This sounds like a really useful tip. I will definitely give it a go. Thanks for sharing


----------



## woodsmithshop (Sep 10, 2008)

woodsmithshop said:


> *Great News for end grain cutting board makers!*
> 
> I may not be the first to discover this, but I did learn this on my own, and I am exited about it, I'll start from the beginning,
> I am sure that many of you that build end grain cutting boards have the same problem, sanding the boards after the glue up, I use my G1066 drum sander, (which I just upgraded with the kit to change the drums to Hook and Loop,) the problem has been that after leveling the CB, deep scratches are left behind that takes forever to sand out, I use 80 grit on the first drum, and 100 grit on the second drum, then I go to my ROS, and switch to 40 grit, then step up to each grit until the CB is as smooth as I want it, usually 150 or 220 grit.
> ...


I apologize if I steered anyone wrong, on my initial sanding I use my drum sander then my ROS, the drum sander leaves heavy scratches, then spray on the water and sand with the ROS.


----------



## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

woodsmithshop said:


> *Great News for end grain cutting board makers!*
> 
> I may not be the first to discover this, but I did learn this on my own, and I am exited about it, I'll start from the beginning,
> I am sure that many of you that build end grain cutting boards have the same problem, sanding the boards after the glue up, I use my G1066 drum sander, (which I just upgraded with the kit to change the drums to Hook and Loop,) the problem has been that after leveling the CB, deep scratches are left behind that takes forever to sand out, I use 80 grit on the first drum, and 100 grit on the second drum, then I go to my ROS, and switch to 40 grit, then step up to each grit until the CB is as smooth as I want it, usually 150 or 220 grit.
> ...


AHHhhhh yes. The ol' *WET SANDING *technique!

Reminds me of a time back around 1970 or '71. A buddy amd I were going to paint my car (having NO real expierence doing so). We went to the auto parts store and the guy told us to buy "That black sandpaper. " He said we could use it "Wet or dry" which went completely over our head 

We got to my house and started sanding. Rick happened to look at the backside of the paper and noticed it said "Wet/Dry" and asked about it. I mentioned that the guy in the parts house also told us that. So we got a bucket of water and started sanding again.

WHOA! What a difference… we thought we had INVENTED using water to sand with.

I never thought about using it on wood though. I'll hafta give it a try next time.

(My car came out like CRAP by the way, but that's a whole 'nother story


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

woodsmithshop said:


> *Great News for end grain cutting board makers!*
> 
> I may not be the first to discover this, but I did learn this on my own, and I am exited about it, I'll start from the beginning,
> I am sure that many of you that build end grain cutting boards have the same problem, sanding the boards after the glue up, I use my G1066 drum sander, (which I just upgraded with the kit to change the drums to Hook and Loop,) the problem has been that after leveling the CB, deep scratches are left behind that takes forever to sand out, I use 80 grit on the first drum, and 100 grit on the second drum, then I go to my ROS, and switch to 40 grit, then step up to each grit until the CB is as smooth as I want it, usually 150 or 220 grit.
> ...


Sounds interesting for sure.


----------



## live4ever (Feb 27, 2010)

woodsmithshop said:


> *Great News for end grain cutting board makers!*
> 
> I may not be the first to discover this, but I did learn this on my own, and I am exited about it, I'll start from the beginning,
> I am sure that many of you that build end grain cutting boards have the same problem, sanding the boards after the glue up, I use my G1066 drum sander, (which I just upgraded with the kit to change the drums to Hook and Loop,) the problem has been that after leveling the CB, deep scratches are left behind that takes forever to sand out, I use 80 grit on the first drum, and 100 grit on the second drum, then I go to my ROS, and switch to 40 grit, then step up to each grit until the CB is as smooth as I want it, usually 150 or 220 grit.
> ...


If this works it would be brilliant! Thanks for the tip!


----------



## ksSlim (Jun 27, 2010)

woodsmithshop said:


> *Great News for end grain cutting board makers!*
> 
> I may not be the first to discover this, but I did learn this on my own, and I am exited about it, I'll start from the beginning,
> I am sure that many of you that build end grain cutting boards have the same problem, sanding the boards after the glue up, I use my G1066 drum sander, (which I just upgraded with the kit to change the drums to Hook and Loop,) the problem has been that after leveling the CB, deep scratches are left behind that takes forever to sand out, I use 80 grit on the first drum, and 100 grit on the second drum, then I go to my ROS, and switch to 40 grit, then step up to each grit until the CB is as smooth as I want it, usually 150 or 220 grit.
> ...


Mineral spirits works as well.
Wake sure you are using water repellent glue if you use water.


----------



## woodsmithshop (Sep 10, 2008)

woodsmithshop said:


> *Great News for end grain cutting board makers!*
> 
> I may not be the first to discover this, but I did learn this on my own, and I am exited about it, I'll start from the beginning,
> I am sure that many of you that build end grain cutting boards have the same problem, sanding the boards after the glue up, I use my G1066 drum sander, (which I just upgraded with the kit to change the drums to Hook and Loop,) the problem has been that after leveling the CB, deep scratches are left behind that takes forever to sand out, I use 80 grit on the first drum, and 100 grit on the second drum, then I go to my ROS, and switch to 40 grit, then step up to each grit until the CB is as smooth as I want it, usually 150 or 220 grit.
> ...


ksSlim, have you used mineral spirits in this way? I would think that water would be safer, also when I put MS on the board and sanded it, the paper loaded up, but it did not with water
I use TB III, so that is not a problem.
so far I have not seen a problem with it at all, I would like any input from those of you that try it.
this looks to me like something that can solve a lot of end grain sanding issues.


----------



## amagineer (Apr 16, 2011)

woodsmithshop said:


> *Great News for end grain cutting board makers!*
> 
> I may not be the first to discover this, but I did learn this on my own, and I am exited about it, I'll start from the beginning,
> I am sure that many of you that build end grain cutting boards have the same problem, sanding the boards after the glue up, I use my G1066 drum sander, (which I just upgraded with the kit to change the drums to Hook and Loop,) the problem has been that after leveling the CB, deep scratches are left behind that takes forever to sand out, I use 80 grit on the first drum, and 100 grit on the second drum, then I go to my ROS, and switch to 40 grit, then step up to each grit until the CB is as smooth as I want it, usually 150 or 220 grit.
> ...


Great find! I wish I knew this when I made a CB out of Jatoba and sanded for three days to get the scratches out.-don


----------



## woodsmithshop (Sep 10, 2008)

woodsmithshop said:


> *Great News for end grain cutting board makers!*
> 
> I may not be the first to discover this, but I did learn this on my own, and I am exited about it, I'll start from the beginning,
> I am sure that many of you that build end grain cutting boards have the same problem, sanding the boards after the glue up, I use my G1066 drum sander, (which I just upgraded with the kit to change the drums to Hook and Loop,) the problem has been that after leveling the CB, deep scratches are left behind that takes forever to sand out, I use 80 grit on the first drum, and 100 grit on the second drum, then I go to my ROS, and switch to 40 grit, then step up to each grit until the CB is as smooth as I want it, usually 150 or 220 grit.
> ...


I have to revise a statement I made on this post, if you leave water standing on the CB when you start sanding, then the paper will load up, it is best to let the water soak in for a couple of minutes, if water is still standing then just wipe off with a cloth or paper towel before sanding, it may take a couple of wettings to get all scratches out but they do come out and quicker than without using water.


----------



## harrywho (Jul 20, 2009)

woodsmithshop said:


> *Great News for end grain cutting board makers!*
> 
> I may not be the first to discover this, but I did learn this on my own, and I am exited about it, I'll start from the beginning,
> I am sure that many of you that build end grain cutting boards have the same problem, sanding the boards after the glue up, I use my G1066 drum sander, (which I just upgraded with the kit to change the drums to Hook and Loop,) the problem has been that after leveling the CB, deep scratches are left behind that takes forever to sand out, I use 80 grit on the first drum, and 100 grit on the second drum, then I go to my ROS, and switch to 40 grit, then step up to each grit until the CB is as smooth as I want it, usually 150 or 220 grit.
> ...


Hi Smitty,

I read this when you first posted it. Didn't try it for awhile but when I did wow it really does work! I meant to thank you for the tip then but couldn't remember where I'd seen it. So a belated thank you from me and a buddy of mine who I told about it.

Harry


----------



## woodsmithshop (Sep 10, 2008)

woodsmithshop said:


> *Great News for end grain cutting board makers!*
> 
> I may not be the first to discover this, but I did learn this on my own, and I am exited about it, I'll start from the beginning,
> I am sure that many of you that build end grain cutting boards have the same problem, sanding the boards after the glue up, I use my G1066 drum sander, (which I just upgraded with the kit to change the drums to Hook and Loop,) the problem has been that after leveling the CB, deep scratches are left behind that takes forever to sand out, I use 80 grit on the first drum, and 100 grit on the second drum, then I go to my ROS, and switch to 40 grit, then step up to each grit until the CB is as smooth as I want it, usually 150 or 220 grit.
> ...


Harry, you are welcome, just glad to hear that someone has found that it works.


----------



## Aussieharry (Nov 22, 2014)

woodsmithshop said:


> *Great News for end grain cutting board makers!*
> 
> I may not be the first to discover this, but I did learn this on my own, and I am exited about it, I'll start from the beginning,
> I am sure that many of you that build end grain cutting boards have the same problem, sanding the boards after the glue up, I use my G1066 drum sander, (which I just upgraded with the kit to change the drums to Hook and Loop,) the problem has been that after leveling the CB, deep scratches are left behind that takes forever to sand out, I use 80 grit on the first drum, and 100 grit on the second drum, then I go to my ROS, and switch to 40 grit, then step up to each grit until the CB is as smooth as I want it, usually 150 or 220 grit.
> ...


Just finished my first end grain CB glue up and wondered about planing/sanding. What a great site for the info I needed. My first visit to lumberjocks and it's already paid off. Hi to all you woodworking Americans. We do a bit of it here down under too. Look forward to exploring this site in more detail.


----------



## cover1967 (Nov 29, 2014)

woodsmithshop said:


> *Great News for end grain cutting board makers!*
> 
> I may not be the first to discover this, but I did learn this on my own, and I am exited about it, I'll start from the beginning,
> I am sure that many of you that build end grain cutting boards have the same problem, sanding the boards after the glue up, I use my G1066 drum sander, (which I just upgraded with the kit to change the drums to Hook and Loop,) the problem has been that after leveling the CB, deep scratches are left behind that takes forever to sand out, I use 80 grit on the first drum, and 100 grit on the second drum, then I go to my ROS, and switch to 40 grit, then step up to each grit until the CB is as smooth as I want it, usually 150 or 220 grit.
> ...


That sounds like a plan. 
I constantly struggle sanding end grain boards so most of my recent ones have been long grain.
Top tip. 
Thanks.


----------



## toeachhisown (Eddie) (Mar 30, 2011)

woodsmithshop said:


> *Great News for end grain cutting board makers!*
> 
> I may not be the first to discover this, but I did learn this on my own, and I am exited about it, I'll start from the beginning,
> I am sure that many of you that build end grain cutting boards have the same problem, sanding the boards after the glue up, I use my G1066 drum sander, (which I just upgraded with the kit to change the drums to Hook and Loop,) the problem has been that after leveling the CB, deep scratches are left behind that takes forever to sand out, I use 80 grit on the first drum, and 100 grit on the second drum, then I go to my ROS, and switch to 40 grit, then step up to each grit until the CB is as smooth as I want it, usually 150 or 220 grit.
> ...


thanks for sharing Smitty,got to try this


----------



## Brad_Nailor (Jul 26, 2007)

woodsmithshop said:


> *Great News for end grain cutting board makers!*
> 
> I may not be the first to discover this, but I did learn this on my own, and I am exited about it, I'll start from the beginning,
> I am sure that many of you that build end grain cutting boards have the same problem, sanding the boards after the glue up, I use my G1066 drum sander, (which I just upgraded with the kit to change the drums to Hook and Loop,) the problem has been that after leveling the CB, deep scratches are left behind that takes forever to sand out, I use 80 grit on the first drum, and 100 grit on the second drum, then I go to my ROS, and switch to 40 grit, then step up to each grit until the CB is as smooth as I want it, usually 150 or 220 grit.
> ...


I level the board with 120 in my drum sander, then I go down to 80, sand until most of the drum scratches are gone. Then I spray the board down with water in a spray bottle, wipe the standing water off immediately, let it dry, then proceed with the 150. Most of the time I only wet it down once. The water raises the grain (and the sanding scratches) and makes it easier for the grit on the paper to cut them. I also do this so once the grain is raised, it wont raise a lot again if it gets wet..like wiped off with a damp rag, have water spilled or dripped on it while used etc.

I used to use a rag dampened with mineral spirits to tack off my boards before finishing, but I learned that isn't a good idea toxicity wise..even if you let the MS evaporate before you put the oil on..


----------



## woodsmithshop (Sep 10, 2008)

woodsmithshop said:


> *Great News for end grain cutting board makers!*
> 
> I may not be the first to discover this, but I did learn this on my own, and I am exited about it, I'll start from the beginning,
> I am sure that many of you that build end grain cutting boards have the same problem, sanding the boards after the glue up, I use my G1066 drum sander, (which I just upgraded with the kit to change the drums to Hook and Loop,) the problem has been that after leveling the CB, deep scratches are left behind that takes forever to sand out, I use 80 grit on the first drum, and 100 grit on the second drum, then I go to my ROS, and switch to 40 grit, then step up to each grit until the CB is as smooth as I want it, usually 150 or 220 grit.
> ...


I am glad to hear that so many people have used this method for sanding end grain boards, it also helps on face sanding.


----------



## MDphotographer (Feb 7, 2016)

woodsmithshop said:


> *Great News for end grain cutting board makers!*
> 
> I may not be the first to discover this, but I did learn this on my own, and I am exited about it, I'll start from the beginning,
> I am sure that many of you that build end grain cutting boards have the same problem, sanding the boards after the glue up, I use my G1066 drum sander, (which I just upgraded with the kit to change the drums to Hook and Loop,) the problem has been that after leveling the CB, deep scratches are left behind that takes forever to sand out, I use 80 grit on the first drum, and 100 grit on the second drum, then I go to my ROS, and switch to 40 grit, then step up to each grit until the CB is as smooth as I want it, usually 150 or 220 grit.
> ...


This technique is called raising the grain. When you sand wood the wood fibers get sheared off,sometimes they do not completely get cut and the fibers get flatted down. By wetting the wood you cause 2 things to happen.

1 the wood fibers stand back up
2 the sawdust that has been pressed into the wood fibers get cleared out.

This is why after you wet the wood the wood surface goes from nice and smooth to rough feeling.Re-sanding after wetting allows those standing wood fibers that didn't get sheared off on the first sanding to be sheared on the second.

There is only one problem with the technique I have seen described in this thread.

YOU SHOULD NEVER USE WATER TO RAISE THE GRAIN!.

Water will cause the wood to warp and can also bleach the wood so you get spotty finish results if you are using anything but distilled water. ALWAYS use denatured alcohol to raise the grain it evaporates quickly and wont leave moisture in the wood fibers. I graduated from the PA Gunsmith School in 1992 and when making a stock we were always told to raise the grain before final sanding with denatured Alcohol.


----------



## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

woodsmithshop said:


> *Great News for end grain cutting board makers!*
> 
> I may not be the first to discover this, but I did learn this on my own, and I am exited about it, I'll start from the beginning,
> I am sure that many of you that build end grain cutting boards have the same problem, sanding the boards after the glue up, I use my G1066 drum sander, (which I just upgraded with the kit to change the drums to Hook and Loop,) the problem has been that after leveling the CB, deep scratches are left behind that takes forever to sand out, I use 80 grit on the first drum, and 100 grit on the second drum, then I go to my ROS, and switch to 40 grit, then step up to each grit until the CB is as smooth as I want it, usually 150 or 220 grit.
> ...


This is a 'why didn't I think of that' moment, excellent!

Usually I drum sand up to 180, then start over with the ROS at 100. The linear scratches from the drum sander are obvious in the final product and it does take some time with the ROS and 100G to remove them.

MD does have valid concerns, I like the idea of using alcohol if it'll stay 'wet' long enough to finish the job.


----------



## MDphotographer (Feb 7, 2016)

woodsmithshop said:


> *Great News for end grain cutting board makers!*
> 
> I may not be the first to discover this, but I did learn this on my own, and I am exited about it, I'll start from the beginning,
> I am sure that many of you that build end grain cutting boards have the same problem, sanding the boards after the glue up, I use my G1066 drum sander, (which I just upgraded with the kit to change the drums to Hook and Loop,) the problem has been that after leveling the CB, deep scratches are left behind that takes forever to sand out, I use 80 grit on the first drum, and 100 grit on the second drum, then I go to my ROS, and switch to 40 grit, then step up to each grit until the CB is as smooth as I want it, usually 150 or 220 grit.
> ...


splinter it isnt that it is staying wet long enough it is that you are giving moisture back to the wood fibers this makes them stand back up after be flattened and partially sheared off during the sanding process after the alcohol evaporates they stay up and re-sanding finishes the shearing off process. I just sanded a end grain cutting board today using DA to raise the grain with my new Bosch ROS and it is the best surface finish I have ever done on a CB. I may never use my 1/4 sheet sander again lol


----------



## cover1967 (Nov 29, 2014)

woodsmithshop said:


> *Great News for end grain cutting board makers!*
> 
> I may not be the first to discover this, but I did learn this on my own, and I am exited about it, I'll start from the beginning,
> I am sure that many of you that build end grain cutting boards have the same problem, sanding the boards after the glue up, I use my G1066 drum sander, (which I just upgraded with the kit to change the drums to Hook and Loop,) the problem has been that after leveling the CB, deep scratches are left behind that takes forever to sand out, I use 80 grit on the first drum, and 100 grit on the second drum, then I go to my ROS, and switch to 40 grit, then step up to each grit until the CB is as smooth as I want it, usually 150 or 220 grit.
> ...


I'm puzzled ?
I hear people saying this finish isn't food safe, that oil isn't food safe then this link is suggesting using denaturised alcohol (meths) ! Which is poisonous to prevent drinking it.

If that's the case can I use Acetone to wet up ?
It evaporates very quickly, is readily available and is cheaper.

Any ideas ?


----------



## MDphotographer (Feb 7, 2016)

woodsmithshop said:


> *Great News for end grain cutting board makers!*
> 
> I may not be the first to discover this, but I did learn this on my own, and I am exited about it, I'll start from the beginning,
> I am sure that many of you that build end grain cutting boards have the same problem, sanding the boards after the glue up, I use my G1066 drum sander, (which I just upgraded with the kit to change the drums to Hook and Loop,) the problem has been that after leveling the CB, deep scratches are left behind that takes forever to sand out, I use 80 grit on the first drum, and 100 grit on the second drum, then I go to my ROS, and switch to 40 grit, then step up to each grit until the CB is as smooth as I want it, usually 150 or 220 grit.
> ...


denatured alcohol doesn't leave any residue behind and takes whatever moisture that is present with it


----------



## jasoncarpentry (Feb 18, 2011)

woodsmithshop said:


> *Great News for end grain cutting board makers!*
> 
> I may not be the first to discover this, but I did learn this on my own, and I am exited about it, I'll start from the beginning,
> I am sure that many of you that build end grain cutting boards have the same problem, sanding the boards after the glue up, I use my G1066 drum sander, (which I just upgraded with the kit to change the drums to Hook and Loop,) the problem has been that after leveling the CB, deep scratches are left behind that takes forever to sand out, I use 80 grit on the first drum, and 100 grit on the second drum, then I go to my ROS, and switch to 40 grit, then step up to each grit until the CB is as smooth as I want it, usually 150 or 220 grit.
> ...


Interesting discussion about organic solvents, especially to a Chemistry nerd like me. Check this out:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denatured_alcohol

Lots of compounds can be used to "denature" alcohol. These include methanol, MEK, and MIBK. ALL of these compounds have different volatilities, but they'll all evaporate if given enough time. None of them will leave a solid residue which would pose a health risk to your boards.

As far as I know, acetone will also raise wood grain, and it "flashes off" pretty quickly.


----------



## dustysawyer (Mar 16, 2011)

woodsmithshop said:


> *Great News for end grain cutting board makers!*
> 
> I may not be the first to discover this, but I did learn this on my own, and I am exited about it, I'll start from the beginning,
> I am sure that many of you that build end grain cutting boards have the same problem, sanding the boards after the glue up, I use my G1066 drum sander, (which I just upgraded with the kit to change the drums to Hook and Loop,) the problem has been that after leveling the CB, deep scratches are left behind that takes forever to sand out, I use 80 grit on the first drum, and 100 grit on the second drum, then I go to my ROS, and switch to 40 grit, then step up to each grit until the CB is as smooth as I want it, usually 150 or 220 grit.
> ...


Thanks for sharing. I ventured into end grain glue up had this problem. Will certainly try on the next CB or any end grain sanding for that matter.


----------



## navarro1950 (Jan 30, 2019)

woodsmithshop said:


> *Great News for end grain cutting board makers!*
> 
> I may not be the first to discover this, but I did learn this on my own, and I am exited about it, I'll start from the beginning,
> I am sure that many of you that build end grain cutting boards have the same problem, sanding the boards after the glue up, I use my G1066 drum sander, (which I just upgraded with the kit to change the drums to Hook and Loop,) the problem has been that after leveling the CB, deep scratches are left behind that takes forever to sand out, I use 80 grit on the first drum, and 100 grit on the second drum, then I go to my ROS, and switch to 40 grit, then step up to each grit until the CB is as smooth as I want it, usually 150 or 220 grit.
> ...


I tried spraying the water on my CB and I sprayed too much so I put the CB in front of a blower I had and dried the water up quickly, raised the water grain like I wanted to and the results were great . Thanks for your advice. I m very new to woodworking so I can use all the advice I can get. Thanks again Simtty.


----------



## Peteybadboy (Jan 23, 2013)

woodsmithshop said:


> *Great News for end grain cutting board makers!*
> 
> I may not be the first to discover this, but I did learn this on my own, and I am exited about it, I'll start from the beginning,
> I am sure that many of you that build end grain cutting boards have the same problem, sanding the boards after the glue up, I use my G1066 drum sander, (which I just upgraded with the kit to change the drums to Hook and Loop,) the problem has been that after leveling the CB, deep scratches are left behind that takes forever to sand out, I use 80 grit on the first drum, and 100 grit on the second drum, then I go to my ROS, and switch to 40 grit, then step up to each grit until the CB is as smooth as I want it, usually 150 or 220 grit.
> ...


I will try this. Thanks


----------

