# Shelving Pin Holes



## EdsCustomWoodCrafts (Sep 21, 2014)

I just got the Kreg Pin hole jig and I'm wondering when the best time in the shelving unit project should I use the jig..

Should I use the jig before I attach all the sides of the shelving unit or just use the jig before I put the (top,bottom, left and right) sides together… So I can lay them flat and just put the holes in them?

Thanks
Ed


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## Dave10 (May 29, 2012)

I haven't used that jig, but I think it would be easiest if you did all that work before assembly. You could wait until all your lengths are cut. Just double check that you're not putting holes where you don't want them and pay attention to the right/left sidedness of the pieces.


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## Rick Dennington (Aug 27, 2009)

You could have saved yourself some money by making your own jig….All you needed was a couple of boards laid out with different hole patterns ( the distance between holes), a router, a 1/4" bit, and a guide bushing….or…get a piece of perferated hardboard with 1/4" holes cut to the lenght and width you need….


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## Ghidrah (Jan 20, 2015)

True you could have saved yourself some bucks and cut a pin board out of pretty much anything. I'd use a DP with an indexing pin instead of a router.

It depends on the width and depth of the box, narrow and shallow do it before assembly, big and wide enough to comfortably get your SG in to drill do it after. If small do a temp fit and mark all faces for any offsets then clamp and drill.


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## Johnny_Yuma (Nov 29, 2009)

I have not used that jig, but I drill all my pin holes at pre-assembly.


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

If possible, I drill the holes before assembly.

Typically, I use a spacer so the Kreg jig sets 6 inches above the bottom shelf, and go from there. 
Since I always put a back on the cabinets (either 1/2 inch or 1/4 inch), I flip the jig around so the rear holes are spaced farther from the edge.

If you need to drill the holes out onto the side away from the edge, well, that takes another spacer to position the jig away from the front edge.

Just remember to be consistent and do the same thing each time and the holes will line up.

Since I cut a dado for the bottom to fit in, it makes it easy to stick a piece of scrap in the dado and clamp the spacer in place.

See pics.

Some folks like to make their own jigs, and there are numerous ways to do it. I have a system that works well for me. 

Hope this helps.
Mike


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## EdsCustomWoodCrafts (Sep 21, 2014)

> If possible, I drill the holes before assembly.
> 
> Typically, I use a spacer so the Kreg jig sets 6 inches above the bottom shelf, and go from there.
> Since I always put a back on the cabinets (either 1/2 inch or 1/4 inch), I flip the jig around so the rear holes are spaced farther from the edge.
> ...


Thanks Mike tgat is a real help .. I'm only making a small little unit to organise some wood finishes like poly and stain and stuff like that so the unit will only be 18" high and 20" wide with 2 shelves a top and bottom


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## Rick Dennington (Aug 27, 2009)

When you get it filled up pretty quick, you'll wish you had made it bigger..


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## EdsCustomWoodCrafts (Sep 21, 2014)

> When you get it filled up pretty quick, you ll wish you had made it bigger..
> 
> - Rick Dennington


Then I'll use it for something else and build a bigger one …. Lol… Thanks for the comments


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

One universal rule I've discovered is that no matter how much space you think you have, you will quickly fill it up and wish you had more. Works for garages, workshops, shelves, closets.. pretty much everything; with very few exceptions 

Cheers,
Brad


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

> When you get it filled up pretty quick, you ll wish you had made it bigger..
> 
> - Rick Dennington
> 
> ...


The road goes on forever and the party never ends! Robt Earl Keen.


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

Got to admit, the Kregg shelf pin guide is pretty and, were money not marked for other toys, uh, tools, I'd go there.

I'm a habitual garage sale-er. When I find plexi and such for cheap, I grab it. Using some of the acrylic I picked up, I cut a strip, marked the holes, then drilled them just big enough to accept a Harbor Freight self-centering-drill bit. The type that is spring loaded and the drill bit only sticks out when you press down.

Because the part going through the acrylic does not turn, there is no wear on the holes. The bit will not go through 3/4" ply, so works perfectly for the task.

After I drill the first hole, I have a screw with tape on it. The tape just fits the hole in the jig and the screw, of course, just fits the hole I drilled. This insures each of the four sets of holes are level with the other three.

After I drill all the holes, I can chase them with a bit just a bit larger and big enough for the pins.

Because the initial holes are so big, chasing them with a bigger bit is a pretty safe operation.

You can see this simple jig at: http://lumberjocks.com/topics/80425


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