# Thin Strip Cutting Jig for TS



## runswithscissors (Nov 8, 2012)

From time to time a question comes up concerning the sawing of thin strips on the TS. I have made a jig that simplifies the task, provides a lot of safety, and is very quick-depending, that is, on how hard it is to adjust your featherboard.

Essentially, this is like a sled, but for ripping rather than crosscutting. The "hook," whichg pushes the stock through, is morticed into the main piece, but not glued, so that it can easily be replaced when it gets too chewed up; because as you can see, the blade cuts into the hook as you finish cutting the strip. I'm still puzzling over how to make this work better. The hook actually shouldbn't stick out to the left as far as it does, because it runs into the featherboard. As it is, it limits how narrow the stock from which you are cutting the strips can be.

This is very easy to use. Simply move the fence over until the gap equals the thickness of the strip you want to cut. Set the featherboard just in front of the blade. You can cut identical strips as fast as you want, pausing only to remove the strips as they are cut, and to adjust the featherboard.

A couple of things could use improving: first, I would like to be able to push the strips right on through, letting them drop on the other side of the saw; I did this with the first crude prototype, but the hook has to be very long to avoid cutting it off. Second, there should be some sort of hold-down for the stock, but I'm not sure how best to mount a featherboard to do that. With the blade set low, the stock wants to rise both at beginning and end of the cut. I just hold down with a stick with my left hand, but that isn't really satisfactory. Raising the blade higher might help. Obviously, this works much better with a riving knife, or at least a splitter. You could probably use your blade guard with it also.

To my surprise, it seems to work well to just withdraw (pull back) the jig/sled, and the newly cut strip follows along, without getting scarred up from blade contact. This may have to do with the way my fence is adjusted.

The handle appears to be mounted on the wrong side of the sled, which was not intentional, but due to a blunder on my part. But in fact, it does seem to offer some protection to the fingers that way. I also tried mounting it so it projected over the TS fence, but it seemed too wobbly in that configuration.

I'm sure that anyone who tries this can think of improvements, but as it is, it works very well, and feels really seccure and safe while using it. I'll certainly be interested in suggestions from the LJ contingent. I'm also wondering why that featherboard has the S curve in it. I can't think of a single worthwhile function, and it makes it awkward and annoying to adjust it.









1/16", 1/8" and 1/4" strips.









Midway through cutting a 1/4" strip









Showing the push handle and "hook."


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

It is a pretty innovative design, but I think if you could design it so that the off cut falls on the left side of the blade that would solve the problem of not being able to push it all the way through and be safer.


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## runswithscissors (Nov 8, 2012)

If I did that, wouldn't I have to adjust the fence for every cut? Which would lead to inconsistent thicknesses. I am aware that some people like the Incra Jig for that.


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## Yonak (Mar 27, 2014)

It looks very workable. If you could devise a way for the featherboard to pivot, say, from the front of the mitre slot and you apply pressure on it with your hand, you wouldn't have to re-adjust it with each pass. Or, you could do as I do, and hold it with your fingers.


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## runswithscissors (Nov 8, 2012)

I did at first use my fingers as a hold down, but that becomes a bit scary as the stock gets narrower. Also, I like having a free hand ready to deal with any problems that might come up (none so far).

To reiterate: my goal here was to have a strip cutting jig that did not require moving the fence for every cut. Set the fence once-for the thickness you want-and keep it there until you have cut all you need.

As for following through with the sled to push the strips past the riving knife, that can be done by cutting through the hook. That doesn't become problematic until you get down to 1/16", when the remaining hook is barely able to hang on to the stock. Also, when the remaining stock gets too thin, it becomes flexible and may not stay hooked, which complicates things.

I'm thinking about a way to have the hook be able to move in and out, so it can safely follow through for any thickness of strip to let it drop off on the far end of the saw table. Also, I should have mentioned in my original post that a ZCI is needed for this.

This thing feels far safer than any push stick for cutting thin strips. In fact, the hooks on my push sticks all have been sawed very thin from doing that. It always feel like the push stick is going to slip off and create more excitement than I was hoping for.

There is an old post by "Dances with Wood" that shows a jig that uses a similar principle; also one referenced in that thread that is similar.


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## Rick Dennington (Aug 27, 2009)

This is the one I use, and have for years…It works for me….


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## amt (Sep 11, 2013)

Perhaps you can make the hook much taller, so that it's taller than the maximum blade height, so you can push all the way through and still keep it attached to the main piece. The main piece also probably needs to be just as tall, but only where it attaches to the hook.

Personally, I would try two g-rripper push blocks, which should give you total control and safety, and no need for a feather board or jig. You would also not be limited on the length of your thin strips by the length of a jig.


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## runswithscissors (Nov 8, 2012)

Using the grrrippers, wouldn't I have to move the fence for each cut? Or maybe I'm misunderstanding you?


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## Woodmaster1 (Apr 26, 2011)

This is the one I made


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## Rayne (Mar 9, 2014)

I second the use of the Grrripper. Repeatable cuts, safe, and easy to set up.


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## PLK (Feb 11, 2014)

I love my Grrrrrrripper.

Paul


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## Yonak (Mar 27, 2014)

Again, with the feather boards and similar blocks, they must be re-adjusted for each pass. When you're cutting dozens of strips that becomes very cumbersome and time consuming. It looks like maybe that Rockler holding block could be pressed with your hand instead of being tightened each time. as long as it doesn't twist on you while you're holding it. Are there two pins the guide slot for control perchance ? If you're wary of using your fingers for holding the strips, maybe you could just hold that Rockler block in your hand without the mitre slot attachment. You could attach an adjustable strip on the top as a hold down.

Regarding the Gripper, the thinnest strip you can make is 1/4", right ? Most of the time strips are in the 1/16" ~ 1/8" range. Plus, don't you have to stop, hold the stock, and re-adjust the placement of the gripper midway through each pass, maybe even several times in a pass, depending on how long the stock is ?

The Rockler thin rip jig looks like an auxiliary fence. Is that right ? I can't figure out how it works. Do you have to re-adjust the main fence with each pass ? If so, do you find it troublesome to get the correct pressure squeezing the wood between the fences, tight enough to get a consistent cut yet loose enough so the stock doesn't bind ?


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## runswithscissors (Nov 8, 2012)

If you look at my first photo, the 4 strips at the top are 1/16" thick. I cut these with no problem at all. I actually had use for these, as I was using them for splined miters in framing that was only 1/4" thick. Worked fine.


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## PLK (Feb 11, 2014)

You can cut narrower than 1/4" with the gripper, you just would want to replace the rubber replaceable pads. I've done so without an issue.

"Regarding the Gripper, the thinnest strip you can make is 1/4", right ? Most of the time strips are in the 1/16" ~ 1/8" range. Plus, don't you have to stop, hold the stock, and re-adjust the placement of the gripper midway through each pass, maybe even several times in a pass, depending on how long the stock is ?"

How long is the stock your cutting 1/16" strips from?

Paul


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## Yonak (Mar 27, 2014)

> How long is the stock your cutting 1/16" strips from?
> 
> - Paul


Usually ~ 36" for bent laminations.


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## runswithscissors (Nov 8, 2012)

Amt: I think your suggestion is on the right track. I'll try a hook tall enough that the blade can pass right through without cutting it off. Thinking about doing that with 1"thick polyethylene, which I can get, sometimes, at Bellingham's world class Hardware Sales. They sell scraps of it by the pound. I'll mount it in a vertical configuration, rather than flat, but will continue to mull that over.

I remain resistant to any of the suggestions that require moving the fence for each strip. And I think a featherboard like Rockler's will be less cumbersome to adjust.


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

The Grr-ripper has an 1/8" leg as well-fits as an outboard on the existing leg. Can't do 1/16" of an inch, though.


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## philba (Aug 23, 2014)

I use grippers and don't think they are the answer here. RWS's sled is pretty good though there is a length limit - maybe 36-48 inches. I don't like the rockler jigs because that still relies on adjusting the fence. You will get close but not precise. At least with featherboard adjustment, precision isn't required.


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## runswithscissors (Nov 8, 2012)

That's odd: I posted a revised jig that took care of the hook getting cut off, with photo, but that seems to have gone missing. It lets me push the strip through so it drops off the far end of the saw. I'll try again:


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## amt (Sep 11, 2013)

Very nice. It looks like that will work fine. As for holding the stock in place for the entire cut, I can't think of anything other than a full-on sled, and in your case potentially one that is quite long. With that you could replicate the placement of the stock that you have now, but you could also incorporate a hold-down that securely holds both sides of the cut. Then again, adding more bits just might over complicate the whole thing.


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## runswithscissors (Nov 8, 2012)

I agree that over complication is the enemy of good design. I define elegant design as that which has every essential element, and none superfluous. When you look at it, you should be able to say, "Of course. How else could it be."

Obviously this ripping sled isn't elegant in that sense. I'm toying with the idea of a hold down mounted to the top of the riving knife (I'd have to make a new knife to do this), that would automatically hold down the stock all the way through the cut. Incidentally, it would also function somewhat as a blade guard, but that would not be its primary purpose. Fortunately, the riving knife is very easy to install/take out.


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

> You can cut narrower than 1/4" with the gripper, you just would want to replace the rubber replaceable pads. I ve done so without an issue.
> 
> "Regarding the Gripper, the thinnest strip you can make is 1/4", right ? Most of the time strips are in the 1/16" ~ 1/8" range. Plus, don't you have to stop, hold the stock, and re-adjust the placement of the gripper midway through each pass, maybe even several times in a pass, depending on how long the stock is ?"
> 
> ...


FYI, There is a 1/8" adapter for the Grrrriper.


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

I find the easiest and cheapest way to rip thin strips is to lay a piece of white tape (sticky label) on to the table in front of the blade and scribe a line the thickness of the strip you want on to the tape to the left side of the blade. Line the wood up with the scribed line and rip. Adjust the fence after each rip lining it up with the scribed line. I can cut strips as thin as 1/32" if necessary (I build models). I use a small hammer to tap the fence lightly for alignment to the scribed line.


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

This is what I use. Infinitely adjustable with just minor turns of the screw. Always consistent and repeatable.


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## HerbC (Jul 28, 2010)

LJ user niki (deceased) created a very versatile thin strip rip jig that uses vacuum power to hold the strip as it is cut off. He detailed the jig in two forum posts: Here and Updated

BTW, the post titles indicate cutting 2mm strips but niki stated that you could use it to cut much thinner strips.

Digging into olds posts can be rewarding.

We lost a great LumberJock when niki passed on.

Good Luck with your efforts and remember…

Be Careful!

Herb


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## runswithscissors (Nov 8, 2012)

Mr. Ron: The main advantage of my ripping sled is that you don't have to adjust the fence for every strip you cut. Just push them through as fast as you (safely) can.

I do like Niki's vacuum idea, and think it wouldn't be hard to adapt to my sled. I'll probably do that next time I decide to play with it.


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

I made a little sketch to illustrate how simple a thin strip jig can be. Re-positioning the fence only takes a second or two. I can see where some fences may not be easily adjusted once set, but my Biesemeyer fence adjusts very smoothly.


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

> This is what I use. Infinitely adjustable with just minor turns of the screw. Always consistent and repeatable.
> 
> - Andybb


Andy; your jig is good, but it is limited to short lengths that can fit the miter gauge. My jig is for ripping long strips and costs zero to make.


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

> Mr. Ron: The main advantage of my ripping sled is that you don t have to adjust the fence for every strip you cut.
> - runswithscissors


True, but you have to re-position the feather board after each rip; whatever works for you.


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## JBrow (Nov 18, 2015)

runswithscissors,

I like the thin strip jig design, but readjusting the feather board for each cut has to be a headache. I wonder whether a spring loaded hold-against might work better than re-adjusting the feather board. In principle, the spring-loaded hold-against would use spring tension to hold the workpiece against the sliding jig. The spring would automatically adjust to the ever reducing width of the workpiece.

It would consist of a curved end hold against mounted to a slotted mitre slot fastener bar. An over-travel stop attached to the mitre slotted fastener bar would also include a dowel where one end of a spring would attach. The opposite end of the spring would attach to a dowel glued to the hold against. The key would be mounting the spring to provide just the right tension when the workpiece is narrow.










A second idea is to use easily replaceable stops that would push both the cut-off thin strip and the workpiece completely through the blade. One option would be to outfit the infeed side of the stop in the revised version of the jig posted 11-25-2014 01:20 AM with a track consisting of two hardboard strips. These could be ¼" hardboard strips with 45 degree bevel vertical edges attached parallel to one another to the handle extension. A second ¼" hardboard insert strip with opposite edges beveled at 45 degrees would slip into the tracks formed by the beveled hardwood strips glued to the vertical handle extension. Several insert strips could be made at one time and easily slid into place when an old one becomes chewed up.


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

> This is what I use. Infinitely adjustable with just minor turns of the screw. Always consistent and repeatable.
> 
> - Andybb
> 
> ...


Not that it matters but….mine has nothing to do with the miter gauge as the stock rides against the fence and can easily be made with scraps in the shop. The fence is just adjusted to move the stock up against the head of the bolt. I've cut 6' strips with it. The bolt also does the job of a featherboard and can be left in place. I have the 1/8" gripper attachment but I find I'm more comfortable with the strip being to the left of the blade rather than between the fence and blade. Just another way to achieve the same end.


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## Yonak (Mar 27, 2014)

This is being so overthought ad infinitum. Don't re-adjust the fence for each pass. Don't re-adjust a featherboard for each pass .. I use a finger jig (or just a glove) and a zero clearance insert. I get repeatable, long strips every time .. 100s at a time, as thin as 1/32", or thinner.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

I just set the fence to whatever thickness I want and run the board through with a sacrificial push stick.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

+ 1 on the last two comments.
I just don't get thin strip jigs.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

I use the Thin Rip Table Saw Jig By Peachtree PW3096 but I do like the idea of thin ripping on the fence side as it allows you to keep the same thickness for your push stick without moving the fence.


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## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

> This is being so overthought ad infinitum. Don t re-adjust the fence for each pass. Don t re-adjust a featherboard for each pass .. I use a finger jig (or just a glove) and a zero clearance insert. I get repeatable, long strips every time .. 100s at a time, as thin as 1/32", or thinner.
> 
> - Yonak





> I just set the fence to whatever thickness I want and run the board through with a sacrificial push stick.
> 
> - Rick M





> + 1 on the last two comments.
> I just don t get thin strip jigs.
> 
> 
> ...


NO MUSS NO FUSS That's how I do it


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

Me too, I just set the fence and go. I've made what seems like miles of 1/4×3/4 strips for shelving and cubbies and cork strips over the years. I have been known to cut them slightly over 1/4 and then run them through a planer or sander to clean them up.

I have herd more that once some people have a concern with the thin strip becoming trapped between the blade and the fence. That's a non issue if you use a push stick. If you're stand in the proper place (to the left of the saw blade not behind it) if a piece does get trapped and is thrown back it not a big deal.


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

Don't over think a basically simple operation.


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## TerriK (Apr 20, 2021)

I'm going to try making one of these! Thanks for the idea.


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## Woodmaster1 (Apr 26, 2011)

Here's one I made from scrap and a router bearing.


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

I use the one with a screw with fine pitch threads vs the bearing as it is adjustable in thousandths which comes in handy sometimes when cutting those thin strips.


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## Peteybadboy (Jan 23, 2013)

This is really awesome. I need a thin rip jig for splines.


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## tvrgeek (Nov 19, 2013)

My version, just to add to the list.


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

> + 1 on the last two comments.
> I just don t get thin strip jigs.
> 
> 
> ...


same here. Just set the fence and go. Depending on what end results I want I'll cut a wee bit thick and run them through the planer. I made 1000s of feet of thin strip for shelving and cubbies when I worked for the school district. That's how I did them all. Thanks for brining that up shipwright.


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