# Router in Table Saw - how do you install the switch



## WorksInTheory (Jan 5, 2014)

I will eventually put a router in a router table saw extension. I have a Triton. I want to put a switch on it for safety - maybe one of those big paddle ones. However in looking to buy one, I don't think I know what I am suppose to get. All the switches seem to not have a place to plug in the router - rather they are hard-wired or something.

Am I missing something?


----------



## redryder (Nov 28, 2009)

This works great for me…..........


----------



## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

*redryder*, has a good one if you are happy with 15A rating!

I want to turn on my shop vac with the same switch that I use for my router so 15A is not a high enough enough for my application and I may need to add a contactor.


----------



## retfr8flyr (Oct 30, 2013)

The big drawback to the Triton, in a table, is the power switch has to be in the off position for the crank to be able to raise the router to the full up position and lock the arbor. I had this setup with a separate power switch because I didn't read the manual fully and didn't notice the part about the power switch. It's kind of a waste of time to add the separate power switch with a Triton router.


----------



## JADobson (Aug 14, 2012)

Would this work for you:
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=71638&cat=51&ap=1


----------



## SCOTSMAN (Aug 1, 2008)

J A has a good suggestion I have several of these in my shop. Alistair


----------



## retfr8flyr (Oct 30, 2013)

That is also the switch I use in my table.


----------



## WorksInTheory (Jan 5, 2014)

JADobson - that would work perfectly (by the way how do you do that reply w/ the posters post quoted thing I see around here).

Is there a cheaper version or is all the cheaper ones not "pluggable"? Or do I have a bad benchmark of cost?

retfr8flyr - that sucks. I got the Triton so I wouldn't have to buy a lift or bend under to lift the router up but now sounds like I do anyways b/c of the switch? What about for safety, would it still be worth it b/c how do you shut the router down quickly then in emergency.

I haven't opened the Triton box yet but I bought it for myself for Christmas so it's been sitting there a while so probably can't return.


----------



## retfr8flyr (Oct 30, 2013)

That's exactly what I was doing, trying to avoid buying a lift. I had mine mounted in the Incra Clean Sweep dust box so for me it was just easier to pull the router out of the table to change bits. One little turn of the locking screw and I could just pull the plate and all out. I still use the Jessem switch just for shutoff safety. Other then for changing bits it wasn't that bad of a setup but I still had to go under the table and lock the height, or it would move on me sometime and ruin a piece. i finally got tired of it and put in the Incra Mast-R-Lift II and a PC 7518 router. I now use the Triton for hand work.


----------



## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

I just use an old Craftsman table saw switch, and plug my router into it.


----------



## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

It's true that you have to reach under the table to slide the safety device to turn the router off to be able to change the bit. I know many have been able to easily remove the safety guard and eliminate the problem. I'm probably going to do this. I never change a bit without unplugging anyway. Also you have to reach under the table to lock the clamp. This does not bother me either. Previously I had to remove my router from the table for each bit change. It's a good router and I can raise and lower and change bits from above the table. As far as the switch goes, seems like you found the best option. For me it's just a 20A receptacle wired in my table cabinet. Router plugs into it and there's a 20A switch mounted on the side to turn on and off. Works great for me.


----------



## LeChuck (Jan 6, 2010)

I have a Triton router *and* a paddle switch to use with it. I only have to activate the switch on the router when changing the bit, and only use the paddle switch the rest of the time. As mentioned, you have to reach for the clamp as well. Really not a big deal. Don't let that change your mind as paddle switches are great, and the Triton's built-in lift is excellent. On both my table saw and my router table (which are all in one), I'm setup to just be able to move a little to the left and bump the switch with the top of my leg to turn the machines off.

I got the switch from Rockler. It plugs into the power cord, and the router's cord plugs into the switch.


----------



## WorksInTheory (Jan 5, 2014)

So I think I get it, so if I didn't want to buy one of those pre-done switches w/ plug outlets already… I could, for example get a big ole paddle switch but then get a outlet receptacle and wire it to that switch and it would accomplish the same thing. Then I can plug the shop vac + router to a single button as well.


----------



## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

Yes that would work.


----------



## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

*WorksInTheory* make sure that the switch can handle the router and the shop vac turning on at the same time!
A router rated at a couple of HP and a shop vac of similar rating is too much for a 15A switch. It will work for a little while!


----------



## WorksInTheory (Jan 5, 2014)

This switch should be big enough for the amps and is future proof for 220v as well don't you agree?

http://www.grizzly.com/products/110-220V-Paddle-On-Off-Switch/H8243

So just need a 2 plug outlet wired to it?


----------



## retfr8flyr (Oct 30, 2013)

I have that switch on my belt sander and it works great. Takes a heavy push to turn on, so you can't hit it on accidentally and the paddle turns it off easily.


----------



## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

*WorksInTheory*, the specifications indicate that it should work for your application and it looks mechanically sound.


----------

