# calling all sheet rock experts - please help.



## sandhill (Aug 28, 2007)

I put this under the safety topic because that is how I view it. I am just about ready to put sheet rock on my shop ceiling and I am a little uncomfortable with attaching 70 pound sheets of 5/8" fire code sheet rock directly onto the trusses which are 24" on center and not quit level and lined up on the horizontal plane. I thought of putting 1X3s 16" on center for a total of about 90 1X3s at a cost of about $150.00 which I had not budgeted into the project putting me at about $600.00 over budget for the entire job. ( I had not figured in the roof vent fan or the vents at the eves ). So with that said am I over killing this ceiling or is it safe to nail right to the trusses? I will also be blowing 6" of insulation in the ceiling. 
Thank you for your advice.


----------



## IrreverentJack (Aug 13, 2010)

Have you thought about using metal liner panel?


----------



## Sawkerf (Dec 31, 2009)

5/8" rock nailed or screwed on 24" centers will be just fine. Look up sheetrcok nail/screw patterns to find out what the perimeter and field spacing needs to be. With 5/8", I would probably use 1-5/8" sheetrock screws. I also strongly recommend using a lift to hoist the rock into place. That stuff gets heavy in a hurry.

Unless you have a pretty significant "step" in the truss plane, I wouldn't worry too much about it.


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

california code calls for nails/screws
(i like screws)
every 8 " 
with a another within 2" by them
(i stagger the screws back and forth
to keep from running all in the center line)
just push the rock tight first
with something first
so it doesn't tear out the rock 
the fasteners wont pull the weight 
till they are all in

another thing i learned on my own
i leave the ends unfastened
till the next sheet is butted to the last
then screw the seam 
otherwise the ends get 'torn' 
at the screws and can keep the sheets from coming together well
(the rock breaks sideways leaving a bump there)


----------



## gkudaka (Mar 26, 2012)

Definitely eave vents if you're blowing in insulation.

When I lived in west coast & did training videos for sheetwork union. In CA, they didn't use used furring (1×3). In east coast, everybody furs. Think it has to do with the expansion/contraction of wood in winter/summer temp extremes. I'm told in east coast the furring helps keep drywall seams more stable. Since you're doing shop, assume you're not worrying about finishing so that's not an ussue.

Using thicker drywall, you're better off with the 24" OC. If you were using 1/4"-3/8", you'd have more of a problem with the sag at 24 OC. For a 4×8 sheet, your nailing pattern should be 6-8".

You might want to look into rental a drywall jack. It'll help you position the pieces, and you can do a quick, get it up job when you have the rental, return the jack, then finish up with more nails.

I screw rather than nail. You want to have the head of your nail or screw indent the paper, not break through the paper, into gypsum. It has to do with the importance of paper in drywall. IE., to cut drywall, all you have to do is score one side, then bend it and it will break.


----------



## Bagtown (Mar 9, 2008)

If you don't strap the ceiling then after a few years you'll see waves in the ceiling when everything dries out. You'll only see these in just the right light. If it's just the shop and you're not too concerned about it being pretty, then go ahead.


----------



## sandhill (Aug 28, 2007)

well I guess that settles it "No furring" If I have to I will just sister the truss where necessary to be sur I get a bite with the screws. Has anyone heard of "clips"? my neighbor mentioned the but did not elaborate. Thanks guys.


----------



## Fuzzy (Jun 25, 2007)

I put my trusses on 19.2" centers … used lots of screws hanging the 5/8" ceiling … got a few tiny sags, but nothing bad. THEN … a big Oak tree fell on it all last summer … trusses are all repaired and the roof is on, but still working on how to repair the ceiling !!! YUCK !!!

I tried some of those clips that are made for repairs … they worked OK, but, in the long run, I just cut some scrap 2 X 4's and glued/screwed them at seams that didn't fall on a truss … worked just fine, and I got to use up some scrap construction lumber.


----------



## sandhill (Aug 28, 2007)

I found this on You Tube its not the repair clips, Its called "The Nailer"


----------



## Dlow (Jan 16, 2011)

Couldn't hurt to buy a tube or 2 of glue also. It makes a big difference, but you'll probably get it in your hair and cuss me for the suggestion


----------



## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

The ceiling needs to be strapped 16" apart. It will move if you don't


----------



## sandhill (Aug 28, 2007)

No hair here! LOL Hey maybe if I get it on my head I can clip some off my dog and stick it on…


----------



## sandhill (Aug 28, 2007)

*Craftsmen on the Lake* What do you mean by "strapped 16" apart"? How would I do that with 24" centers?


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

i think he means cross banding
or furring strips
at 16" centers 
like back east


----------



## sandhill (Aug 28, 2007)

Kind of like what I was talking about at the start of the post?


----------



## bblogna (Feb 8, 2011)

24 inch on center is fine SCREWS 12 inches apart in the field and 8 inches apart on the edges.


----------



## Bagtown (Mar 9, 2008)

It would be interesting to see if it was code to put strapping up in your part of the world…

Mike


----------



## sandhill (Aug 28, 2007)

Good point I will call the county inspector and find out what they require. I went to the trouble of pulling a permit for the electric and had it inspected so there would be no insurance problems if something happened or I sold the place I should do the same for the rest of the work. Thanks I had not thought of that.


----------



## Fuzzy (Jun 25, 2007)

This is what I used … they worked OK, but I prefer scrap pieces of 2X4 …

http://www.prest-on.com/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=3


----------



## sandhill (Aug 28, 2007)

I think I would use 2×4s as well, the clips don't look like something I would use.


----------



## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

In the central U.S. we would put that on the trusses with nail or screws. Nail a 2×4 from one end of the building to the other to hold the spacing of the trusses. Move them and align as needed when putting this in. If not the sheetrock might not reach the next truss. screws are becoming more popular because people try to beat the nails in and don't set them correctly. If you use a screw driver get the correct tip. I don't see a problem. Never heard of using glue though.


----------



## sandhill (Aug 28, 2007)

It seems no one feels there is an issue with the weight of the insulation, can I assume thats no biggie?


----------



## ShipWreck (Feb 16, 2008)

24" on center for 5/8" sheetrock is just fine. I would use 1 5/8" bugle head (course screws) when I am hanging a ceiling if the trusses are uneven. If you are worried about fire rating, then go with 5/8" type X. The X will give you a 1 hour UL CODE fire rating. A (1 hour) fire rating is pretty much the building code in most areas if the shop is attached to a residence. Consider using 12' sheets because you can cover more trusses per sheet and it will (visually) eliminate a little of the wavy look from uneven trusses. 12' lengths will eliminate quite a few butt joints….*and amateurs tend to screw up butt joints when finishing*. The spacing of the trusses are pretty much dictating your screw pattern. Your local building code will dictate the spacing of the nails/screws. A ceiling like yours normally would take me a couple hours to hang (with helper). You can expect to take all day, so just go slow and take things easy.

Rent a drywall lift for a day. It will save you alot of agony.

Going with 16" spaced strapping is overkill. No need for it.

The weight of the insulation is a non factor…..no need to worry.

If you have any questions regarding the hanging/finishing. Feel free to email me. I can give you my cell phone number.


----------



## sandhill (Aug 28, 2007)

In my neck of the woods strapping is required for ceilings and structures with 10 foot ceilings or higher.
For >TRUSSES< it was recommended to sister 2 feet to ether side of seams for support.
Screw recommendation is 2 each - 2" apart every 10" inches stagged. or one screw ever 8". 
Also must have fire stops at 8 feet in all walls. That is not what I wanted to hear, I totally forgot to put them in so now I have to cut 2" X 40 foot. install the fire stops and patch the whole thing lucky for me I will have 10" of wall board left over to fill it in. the other lucky thing is I am only half way around. Geezzz what was I thinking of!
I may not tape the 2" section I cut out I was going to put a 1X6 or 1 X8 band around the wall so I can hang templates, prototypes and such around the shop to keep them from getting banged up


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

take pictures
just in case the inspectors don't show 
on the due day


----------



## sandhill (Aug 28, 2007)

Good idea, I asked if I could see it somewhere written down and he said "Yea when I fail it it will have the code violation written in the paper". I made sure I was not challenging him about it I just wanted to see the reference text. I even made it a point to tell him I could have just left it open I just wanted to do it right and he understood.


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*Rent a drywall lift for a day. It will save you alot of agony.*

best advice you'll ever get.

I asked my wifes friends husband to help me lug 14' panels of 1/2" rock up to the second floor 15 years ago… and he hasn't talked to me since… seriously!

I thought strapping ceilings was just a given…. and don't know of any other way to get a dead level surface, as you can shim the strapping where needed.


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*and amateurs tend to screw up butt joints when finishing.*

you haven't been peeking in my basement windows have you?


----------



## ShipWreck (Feb 16, 2008)

If you lived a little closer to Virginia Beach, I'd hang your garage for a few *beers*


----------



## ShipWreck (Feb 16, 2008)

When you mentioned strapping. I thought you were talking about using them to get your drywall to hang 16" O.C.

My bust.


----------



## sandhill (Aug 28, 2007)

Thanks guys, My son-in-law is going to borough a lift and dry wall gun from a friend. It should go pretty fast its only about 24 sheets so we should be able to do it in one day if I can get my other son-in-law to come as well and If I can borough another ladder.


----------



## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

The lift is the way to go. From experience I will tell you to make sure your "handle" that you use to lift the lift is properly engaged before you let go of it. I learned that lesson real quick (only busted one finger) . If I can sheet rock an 11 room farm house, including an open staircase, by myself, you and your 2 BIL's should have no problem with a shop ceiling in one day.

I also echo the comment above of not putting the screws in on the ends until you have your next sheet hung.

Personally, I think the tape and mud were the hardest part of the whole job, especially the ceiling.

One last comment about the lift. Make sure you put it together at the rental store and make sure the cable is not kinked. A kinked cable really makes the lift hard to work.

Good luck.


----------



## sandhill (Aug 28, 2007)

Thank you Betsy I will be sure to be careful maybe even do a dry run to get the feel. The one we are getting belongs to a dry wall contractor and is on loan to us for a week, its his back up one.


----------



## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

Yeah those lifts can hurt you as much as they help. When you release the wheel to lower it it will want to jump out of your hands and hurt the hand as well as drop the platform on your head. I have done most of this one or more times. They are great but like all other tools use with caution.


----------



## sandhill (Aug 28, 2007)

Good to know Grandpa, Thanks.


----------



## Trapshter (Nov 5, 2011)

I am a professional sheet rocker and taper for about 28 yrs now. The guys are right save your money 5/8" Sheetrock 24" on center in fine . Labor is your biggest cost putting 2×4 s between the trusses is very labor intense. If you are really not comfortable put metal hat channel across and screw them to the bottom of the trusses place them 16" on center. Then screw the rock to them. That being said there really is no need you will be fine. Good luck 
Jm


----------



## sandhill (Aug 28, 2007)

I had not thought of using metal Chanel, would it be cheaper then 1X3 strapping on 16" centers? The inspector said it is required on ceilings over 8' and wants bracing on the truss at each joint. (He made reference butchers installing the trusses and said he would never have passed the job) I assume metal would be OK to use in place of 1X3s across the trusses. I measured across each truss and found them out from 23 3/4" all the way to 25" and as much as 1/2" off horizontal so some sort of blocking will be needed. Labor is not an issue as I am doing this myself, my concern is cash flow I have put a lot of money into this project and it will top out somewhere around $3K to $4K for materials (elect/insulation/drywall) I also still need to put in HVAC of some sort. I realize thats not much for what I am doing but I just bought this place and money is getting a bit tight.


----------



## Trapshter (Nov 5, 2011)

Cheaper and faster. 
Jm


----------

