# A very nice Veritas plane...added some pictures



## alba

Nice Review.

Thanks for Sharing

jamie


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## Gofor

Thanks for the review. Appears it works much like the bevel-up jack that I have. Thanks also for the review of the toothed blade. I wondered how well it would work.

Go


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## Ken90712

Nice review! They sure make nice hand tools!


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## BTKS

Been looking at the toothed blades for awhile now. I'm convinced, gotta have one. Thanks, BTKS


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## AaronK

i've read about toothed blades on larger planes for use on nasty grain like interlocked mahogany, etc. how useful is it on a smaller plane like a block plane? would you use it differently or just on tiny little patches?+


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## PurpLev

great review - and indeed a great plane.


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## gko

Hi Aaron,

I just posted some pictures. The board of maple was about 18" by about 9" (2×4.5") and I took about 2 minutes to plane it flat using the toothed plane. This included experimenting with going in as many directions as possible. I might have luck out when I planed with the 50 degree blade to smooth the board as I didn't run into any tear out. I purposely mismatched the two boards to see how easy it would be to plane them flat and it was. Now I never glue stuff badly like that, LOL!


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## AaronK

cool - thanks for the update. it looks like its quite handy!


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## HorstPeter

This is the only handplane I currently own and I do all planing work with that (after sizing on the power planer/thicknesser), up to the finishing. So far the only wood I had tear out on was the Padauk I used for my stepstool. Somehow I forgot that I could just put on a micro-bevel to get more than the 25 degrees. I usually do have a micro bevel that is more, but not a whole lot, so maybe that would've adressed the padauk tearout issue. I'll try that next time.

Overall I can only say that it's a great plane to have if it's the only one you can afford and you do not work on really big projects, like me (so far). I did get the wooden front knob, however I wasn't able to get the back handle, but I guess I'll be able to afford some other bigger plane at some point which will replace the wish for that handle maybe.


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## gko

Hi Peter, I would really recommend getting the 50 degree blade. It's really nice to just pop off the 25 degree, pop on the 50 and plane away. Just yesterday I was planing a piece of maple and didn't realize I was planing against the grain. There was no tear out and I only realized it when I felt the board and it didn't have that glass smooth feel. Turned it around and it went back to smooth like glass feel. The 25 degree is great on end grain and softer woods. The 50 just chatters on end grain and a lot of tear out.

I also bought the wooden front knob and gives it a great feel. I might just buy the 38 degree blade to see how it works. I think the 38 (50 total) would give a nicer finish on hard woods but the 50 is already so nice. I put a micro bevel on some of my bevel down blades but especially on the 25 I like it to be as close as possible to 37 degrees on end grain. I have a 37 and 40 degree Japanese planes and the 37 cuts so much better on soft woods and end grain.

So far I love this plane. Also bought the chamfer guide and it works pretty good. You have to add the included shims to make it either level or just a touch higher than the sole for really nice cuts. Doesn't cut as well if its even slightly below the sole. A bit difficult to keep aligned and square with the edge but its usable.


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## ChuckM

If you only have a LA block plane, here's a trick to turn it into a standard block plane:

Get another blade from Lee Valley at 38 degrees and regrind/hone it to 33 degrees. The LA block plane has a bed angle of 12 degrees and it becomes a standard block plane (effective cutting angle at 45 degrees) when you put the 33-degree blade in it.

You can turn it into a smoothing plane by getting the tote: http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=41715&cat=1,41182,41189,41715 3 planes in 1!


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