# What is your "must have" jig/guide/sled for your Table Saw?



## AngieO

So far I've been doing all my cutting with my miter saw and my Skilsaw. Tomorrow I am going to pick up my table saw. It's a used Craftsman bench top. I'm getting it from a friend. He has it all tuned up for me and I can't wait to pick it up. I'm pretty sure that he said it was a 10" blade. Other than that I'm not really sure till I get there and see it again. I just know it's a table saw.

I wanted to get out and build something today but with the rainy weather it looks like I may not get to. So I've been watching some YouTube videos and checking things out on LJ's. I watched a video on making a cross cut sled. Looks like a pretty handy piece for the table saw. I've checked out a couple on LJ's as well. I've seen some nice ones.

So this leads me to my question. What are your "must haves' for your table saw?

Right now I know I'll be making some small things (picture frames, boxes… maybe some more boxes…  but I have plans to gradually get bigger. I eventually plan to make beds for my kids. So I do have some lofty ideas of making big furniture. But with the small things I'm doing now I like the idea of repeat-ability. I can already see where a cross cut sled would make the projects I've done so far (lol… all three) easier.

I've already learned SOOO much on this site. So I thought I'd throw this out to you guys to see what you think. I'm don't buying tools for a while (for at least a week or so… right? LOL). I just want to build stuff with the tools I have… and like many of you said… let my next project dictate what tool I may need to get.

I look forward to reading your responses.


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## nwbusa

A good crosscut sled is a must imo. I built mine based on Marc's design at the Wood Whisperer.


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## AngieO

Oh… and also… since it's a bench top table saw… your comments about out feed (?? is this the correct term?) is also welcome.

Obviously I'm going to be asking my friends lots of these questions as well. But since my time there is limited we might be able to actually make some of the things recommended instead of just talking about them. 

nwbusa… That's the video I watched today that I thought was the most helpful. I know there was another posted on LJ's, but I found the Wood Whisperer video much easier to follow.


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## dbhost

For me, since I have a Ryobi BT3100 which features, at least from the factory, no miter slots, Suwat's Multi Purpose Tall Fence.

It's a tenon jig, spline jig, panel raising jig, thin strip ripping jig etc… all in one jig…Fairly simple construction. I have no idea why I haven't built one yet other than I have had too many other projects going on…


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## Richforever

I had to make a cross-cut sled. It seems to be the only thing for accurately cutting panels that are too big for the miter saw. An in feed and an out feed support are also necessary for safety on my little fold up table saw. This sled really, really, really makes cross-cutting nice!


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## Loren

A cut-off stop to the left of the blade. One to the right as well
(mounted to the fence) is very useful as well.


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## PurpLev

I'd start with a zero-clearance insert for what you are not using a sled. followed by some featherboards to keep stock tight against the fence. these are things that can be done in the shop and adds a lot of quality for the finished cuts.

a push block is also something you need to have. if you don't have one - make one


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## jdmaher

Well, the fence, of course.

I usually use the mitre gauge that came with my Unisaw for 90 degree cuts, and its "okay". But I plan to get an Osborne EB3. For any angled cut, or for precision panel cutting, I rely heavily on my "Double Dubby". I had one with my old contactor's saw, and its the first accessory I bought after I got my Unisaw.

I also use a real good dado set quite a bit.


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## nwbusa

+1 on the ZCI, really helps a lot with improving the quality of the cuts.


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## Sawkerf

I'm not sure that there are any real "must haves", but there are tons of "nice to haves". That list will depend on the projects you do, the tools you already have, and your particular skills.

If your new TS is well set up, it and your miter saw (assuming it cuts accurately) will get you thru a great many projects. If you're cutting long pieces of stock, workpiece support should be at the top of your list of things to add. Even the best set up saw will be hard to use if the workpieces aren't well supported, and correctly supported workpieces usually result in more precise cuts.

ZCI's are handy, but only necessary if you're ripping thin strips which can drop into the throat of a stock insert, or trying to minimize chip out on plywood. I use my stock plate most of the time for the added air flow around the blase which makes my dust collection more effective.

As you do projects, you'll reach points where your particular "must have" will be quite apparent.


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## lumberjoe

Not so much a jig, but BLADES! A good blade makes all the difference. If you are on a tight budget, you really can't beat the 37$ 50 tooth diablo combo blade. If you can afford it, a better option would be a good cross cut (60 to 80 tooth) and a good rip (24 to 30 tooth) blade. If I was forced to use the blade that came up with my saw, I would be extremely frustrated


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## gizmodyne

A fence.


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## Alexandre

jdmaher, A shop near me is selling that gauge for 99.99 each.


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## jdmaher

Alexandre,

Osborne themselves only want $109 (with free shipping).

I just always seem to spend my monthly budget on the 1st of each month for things I absolutely *HAVE *to have immediately.

I'll get it eventually . . .


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## AngieO

Lots of good suggestions. The friend I'm getting it from made a zero clearance insert already. Which is really nice. 
I don't know what kind of fence is on it now. I guess I'll find out tomorrow. When I first checked this thing out I didn't know what to look for. After doing some research and things I've learned here on LJ's, I'll be better equipped now. 
Have I mentioned how excited I am??? I can't wait! And… two other things I'll be getting tomorrow… a table… like a clamping table of some kind. I saw the legs of it and he was putting a new top on for me. Can't wait to see it. And he made me a tool (he can do some welding too). It's for disassembling pallets.

The weather here has been so dry… but I'm hoping that this weekend there will be no rain. I work outside and I'm planning on making some sawdust. Probably gonna start with a cross cut sled. AND… well… I"m sure I'll make some more boxes


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## Alexandre

Angie, It depends.
If you change the blade… You'll want to make another zero clearance insert.
These are easily made.
If you want help on making a Zero Clearance Insert, I can send you a issue on how to make one.


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## SnowyRiver

Outside of the fence, and the Incra miter jig, the jig I use most is the tenon jig. I have a large heavy cast iron jig, but it takes too long to set it up so I built a small simple wooden tenon jig and I love it. It works great and I seem to get more accurate tenons quicker.


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## canadianchips

A good outfeed table is also a must. I make my cuts alone. I refer that method when using in-feed-outfeed table.I can control the speed of the cut, the material against the fence, and do not worry about the cutoff pieces falling and jambing.


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## MisterBill

Angie,

If you are going to build boxes, then you should make a jig to cut the slots in the corner of the boxes for the splines. I built a simple little jig and I use it all of the time.

Bill


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## AngieO

Speaking if splines… I did like that multipurpose tall fence that dbhost had a link for.. It will do the cuts for the splines. But that leads me to another question…. This may be a silly question… But how do you cut the small pieces that go into it? Is it the obvious?


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## gfadvm

Check out the SuperSled on Eagle Lake Woodworking's site. I really like the depth and simplicity of his instructions. I built one while waiting for my new saw several years ago and it still sees a lot of use


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## cutworm

Make yourself some push blocks . I use pieces of 2×4's and notch them. Install a splitter on the ZCI if possible.
Keep that blade as low as you can. Make sure the blade is sharp. No necklaces. Be careful. Find a local club and join it. Keep them fingers away from that blade.


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## MisterBill

Angie,

This link will take you to chapter one of Doug Stowe's book "Basic Box Making". It contains a lot of information that should be useful. There is also a plan for a simple jig for cutting the splines/keys.

http://www.woodlinksusa.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/99928091.pdf


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## AngieO

Thanks for the link to the book about boxes. I'm sure it will help a lot.

I saw the video on the Super Sled. It's pretty impressive. I wonder though if it matters what size table saw you have for that? Me and my daughter are stopping for snacks. On our way to get it now. Almost there.

Cutworms--definitly going to make some push blocks. Don't have any yet. Might e able to make those today when I pick up the TS and use his.

I think I have a healthy fear of getting hurt. When my hubby uses my tools he's not as careful and he scares me. I want to keep all my fingers and other parts. But the reminder to be safe is always welcome. Thanks.


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## Finn

Here is a photo of four simple to make push sticks that I use. I make tapered vases so I have a taper jig that looks like a sliding cross cut sled also.


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## bindernut

A good rip fence is a must. And I also will throw another vote for the Incra miter gauge! I have one and it's very accurate. I still use my old one from time to time. Out feed & in feed tables are nice, but if you don't have lots of room, roller stands will get the job done, without eating up too much real estate. I have a few home made push sticks i made, but I also have a Bench Dog push block from Rockler. I really like it. It sells for $10, but I'm pretty sure I got mine on sale. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=30571&site=ROCKLER. 1 other thing I'd say to get or make would be some feather boards. I only got one recently(have used a table saw for 20-25years) and I really don't know why I didn't get any sooner.


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## dnick

First jig I ever built for a tablesaw was a crosscut sled. Invalueable. I got an upgraded saw last year & the first thing I made for it were zero clearance inserts. My favorite ts jig is my miter sled.


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## AngieO

Cutworm- what do you mean by a splitter? Picked up my TS yesterday. First thing I plan on making is a cross cut sled We made two really simple push sticks yesterday. One for bigger things and one for smaller. My table saw has a ZCI already. The blade guard is still on there. I think he said it has a splitter on the blade guard. Is that what you are talking about?

Jim Finn - I like those push sticks.


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## Bsmith

I agree with everyone here as far as jigs, you can't have too many. But I would start with safety in mind. Reading between the lines this may be new territory for you. As was mentioned push sticks are a must. Safety glasses too. No loose clothing. Table saws are very unforgiving, but used properly it can be one of the best investments you can make. I don't want you to be afraid if it, just be aware of standard operating procedures so as not to get something bound up. Good luck and have fun.


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## a1Jim

The first and most important thing to have with you new saw is someone to be there and run you through safe operation of a table saw this might help too http://lumberjocks.com/topics/23590 . secondly with a small table saw is a out feed table or actually building your saw into a unit something like this http://lumberjocks.com/projects/67726 Then sleds are a great help I have at least 6 different style ,the one my students seem to like best is a very basic sled that amounts to just a 3/4" piece of plywood with one hard wood strip the runs in the miter slot like this one http://store.lumberjocks.com/gizmodyne/blog/3570 it makes it easy to use because the edge of the sled is where the cut is. I would suggest you do a search LJS and one the web for table saw sleds,On the web I also search using images . Good luck with your new saw and be very careful.


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## MrRon

Must haves will be different for most folks, but the ones I would consider are crosscut sled, box joint jig, zero clearance insert, push sticks, a good aftermarket fence and miter gauge, an outfeed table, dado set, eye protection and dust collection. Many of these can be made and others purchased. Remember to keep your fingers away from the blade.


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## ArlinEastman

Angie

StumpyNubs (http://lumberjocks.com/StumpyNubs) has made a very nice box making jig and several other jigs that would be wonderful to have. I just started making a bandsaw sled and when it is done I will be making a tablesaw sled.

Check him out

Arlin


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## NedB

Angie, 
Lots of good info up there… we're all different in how we approach woodworking and our favorite tools.

Add me as another Crosscut sled user. I've had one for my saw for over 8 years now… (some of that it was in storage). Mine is Huge, and can easily handle a piece of plywood 24" wide which has come in handy from time to time. 
That being said, I'm going to build a smaller sled in the next few months, something about 10" or so 'deep' and about 30" wide. I like having the off cut pieces supported to the right of the cut line, and will likely split the difference at about 20" left and 10" or so to the right of the blade.

closely followed by a good 'sole' push-stick. I cut mine from plywood normally, as it will get chewed up at some point. Nothing fancy ,but one with a handle which keeps my fingers safely above the blade on most 3/4" thick stock cuts (let's face it, most of my stock winds up at 3/4 or so once I dress it down from 4/4 or 5/4) and the thickest sheet goods are 3/4 so…


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## JK0702

Alexandre, 
Any chance I could get a copy of that issue on how to make a ZCI?

Thanks,
John


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## AngieO

Alexandre, I do have a ZCI. But at this point it's the only one I have. I can't tilt my blade or use a dado blade. STILL don't have my sled done yet but it should be done today. Ran into an issue with that the blade and fence are not parallel to each other. It's off by quite a bit so when I use the fence I'm cutting crooked boards.


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## BTimmons

I finished my first cross cut sled recently, and I'm amazed with how frequently I use it. That said, it can't be stressed enough how important it is to wax the underside and the runners that fit in the miter slots. When I first got the sled built I used it right away. It was accurate and all that good stuff, but there was a fair amount of friction to overcome in order to get it to work smoothly. After waxing it, that sucker *flies.*

And it was so simple, too. No poly or shellac needed. Just wax the bare wood, wipe off excess and buff after 15 minutes and you're good to go.


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## BillWhite

I added the Incra 1000SE miter gauge to my saw. Good investment.
Get some good hearing protection. I use Peltor OPTIME 105's.
Ya gotta get that alignment issue corrected before ya get hurt.
Bill


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## AngieO

I just decided to not use the TS till I get it aligned. Right now I've made some boxes and frames using my miter saw and router. Waiting till this evening for my hubby to help with the alignment.

Btimmons… What kind of wax should I get


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## crank49

My favorite wax for the shop is good old Johnson's Paste wax.
Others here may have different favorites, but one thing I think all will agree on is to be sure the wax you use contains NO silicone. That stuff will contaminate your whole shop and mess up anything you try to finish.


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## BTimmons

I used Minwax Paste Finishing Wax. You should be able to find a can pretty much anywhere that sells wood finishing supplies.


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## Hoosier25

Just a pre-caution.

*Do not rip any wood to get till get the fence parallel to miter slot*

That how you get the dreaded kick-back, the most dangereous situtation on table saw.

Best of luck, many good sugestions above. 
I prefer the smaller miter-sled, just left side of blade.


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## AngieO

YEAH!!! DH got home and he came right outside and got his tools out. Put my new blade on. WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!!! He didn't adjust anything really. And this blade cuts SO NICE. It has carbide tips and more teeth (can't remember). The other had like 24 or something crazy and no carbide. It cuts so smooth… and it's parallel to the miter slots now. Ripped me a board, then flipped it and ripped again. Both ends measured the same. Then i tried it again a couple of other times. Still good!

I have my rails made now (WOW… SOOOOO much easier when you have a good blade and a square TS). They are glued up and ready for the next step. Gonna go check on them now.

WOOHOO!!!! Did I mention how excited I am to have my new blade and everything aligned? Just imagine what I can do now. And how excited I'll be to actually put that sled to work. I have a finishing station to make!


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## cutworm

AngieO
A splitter prevents wood from pinching the blade and kicking back on you. Here is what one looks like but you can eaasily make them.
http://www.woodcraft.com/PRODUCT/2005067/10870/MICRO-JIG-THIN-KERF-STANDARD-MJ-SPLITTER-KIT-YELLOW.ASPX?refcode=10INGOPB&gclid=CNeHkLPPx7ECFQgEnQodpxkA8Q


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## moonie

this is a got to have when cutting live edge's off .


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## AngieO

My TS has a slitter and something that keeps it from kicking back. But when I first got it I took it off because it needed to be adjusted. It was smaller at the outfeed side. So I couldn't push the wood through. I didn't try to put it back on today. Too much was happening.

Soooo…. I had good intentions but I did not get my CS sled done today. Not because I didn't have the time… but because my DH went to the church to drop something off and there was a bus full of our friends getting ready to go down to Clarksville (45-60 min away) to go eat at Chick-Fil-A. So we left and just got back.

Here's how far I got.








I got my first rail glued and tried it out. NOPE! It was good but it wouldn't slide all the way through. So I had to get my sandpaper out and sand away. Finally got that one squared away and it was on to the next. The "T" in the rails really made it harder for me to get the next rail attached, at least the way I wanted to. But I finally got it attached and it's doing the same thing. That's when it was time to go. 
So I need to sand a little and I will be on my way. I'll have it up and going in no time in the morning. This is the time that I wish I had a place in the garage to work because I'd be out there right now.

And it was not easy. After FINALLY getting my TS adjusted I cut my two rails. But they were too thick. I don't have a planer… so I improvised. I've seen lots of people show planing down large boards with their router. I got it out and went to town and took the two rails down. Then.. my TS has tracks on it that have a "T" in it in two different places. I finally decided to put a rabbet in the top of my rails. So they finally fit. I was determined.


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## woodworker59

If your starting with small projects, you may be able to do what you need with what you have. If your saw comes with a good miter gauge, that should work well with an added taller, longer fence. something that sticks out ten to twelve inches past the end of whats there now. When you move on to bigger projects, you will definitely want to invest in a good Dado blade. The only real jigs that I use are a shop made taper jig and a shop made tenoning jig. I agree that with a bench top saw, a good blade will make a huge difference. Don't try to feed your wood to fast and be careful.. beyond that, just have fun and make nice things.. best of luck to you in all you do.. Papa..


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## NavyDoc

Buy any Miter sled BUT NOT the Dubby . The Sled is made poorly. Sled is made of MDF that is cheap and will need to be handled carefully if you expect it to survive in your shop. Fence made of aluminum, but other parts are made of wood that can split, needs to be trimmed and shimmed in order for them to fit correctly on the fence. The Stop Block is also made of wood and the Allen screw was put in backwards and it cannot be removed and put in correctly since the threads in wood do not hold. The stop block should be machined from metal so if it is put in backwards it can be removed and replaced correctly. In Line Industries does not support their product and calls and emails to them are never answered. I would NOT recommend this sled and Look at the other sleds that are on the market rather than buy the Dubby sled which probably cost $25 dollars at most to manufacture and you will get no support if you have a problem. I have an Incra Miter gauger and many other Items made by woodpecker, inc, Wood Pecker is a company that supports their products and makes excellent tools.


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## tomsteve

not sure what yer MO is for being here, NavyDoc, but drudgin up old threads to complain about a product ya purchased seems rather childish.


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## bearkatwood

Two things I couldn't live without and can't believe I ever got by without them are my crosscut sled and my miter sled. I made a large 24" deep by 24" wide cross cut sled. I attach hold downs where needed. I am about ready to make it's replacement, but it is a great addition to the shop. A few months back I took my chop saw to a remodel we were working on and left it there, after about two months I didn't miss it. I make all my cuts with the sleds. I don't own a radial arm saw and never will, I use a Milwaukee 18 cordless jig saw to break down large parts. It saves a lot of room. For the miter sled I went with the incra and it rocks. I have the incra jig kit too and I will probably use that to make the next cross cut sled. Hope that helped. Have fun and be safe.
http://www.incra.com/jig_fixture-build-it_system-starter_kit.html
http://www.incra.com/miter_gauges-miter1000hd.html


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## fisherdoug09

Hi Angie, I have seen some members say a rip fence, but most saws come with them. For me I would have to say a crosscut sled. I make boxes and the sled is so useful in my box making. I see you are in Indiana, you should check out Mark Adams School of Woodworking. It's just outside of Indianapolas. It's a bit pricey but the have so many different classes available, some are week long ones and others are weekend classes. It looks like you are well on your way to being a great woodworker.


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## clin

Old thread, great topic!

Homemade, crosscut sled, hands down.

Store bought, MagSwitch universal feather board.


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## poordustmaker

My must have is a push stick, I use it for every ripping cut I make.


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## chiseler

The only time I use my chop saw is in the field or occasionally to rough cut something in the shop.Otherwise I do all my precision cutting with a sled on the table saw including miters.to cut miters I have a triangular shaped piece of plywood I lay on my sled with locating pins so it's in the same spot every time. I would post a picture if I new how work this contraption.(if it don't make saw dust I don't know how to use it.My wife makes fun of me all the time)


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## pete724

Not counting safety issues like accurate fence and push shoe push block my answer is ;

Sled - Crosscut/squaring

Sled - Miter

Sled - small parts


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## kelvancra

THE most important thing for my table saw IS, push SHOES. Not just sticks, but actual shoes. I am such a fanatic [with all my fingers, after over forty years (and, yes, I used them from the get go, because I thought push sticks were stupid)], I have this rack over my saw and can reach up and grab a stick, if I forgot to take one down.










After push sticks, I guess it would be a add on sacrificial fence.

Speaking of fences, if yours isn't great, know that many, if not most of us with good saws and fences would not hesitate to upgrade the fence before the saw, if ours weren't already first cabin. If it could be transferred to a better saw, even more so.


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