# What about two fences on a table saw, one on each side of the wood?



## Nashvillian (May 13, 2021)

I really appreciate the advice I get on this forum and I hope I'm not asking too many dumb questions for a newbie. Anyway…

I've run into a problem with wood staying absolutely straight as it's fed into a table saw. Would it be a good thing to have what amounts to *two fences* on the table saw, one on each side of the wood, so that the wood must stay in a straight line between them? Or would this cause a problem with the wood closing in on the back side of the blade since I don't have a riving knife/splitter on this old table saw?


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

That would be an accident waiting to happen IMO. If you can't keep it straight, then your technique may be at fault. You could also try using a featherboard if you think you need extra hands.

Cheers,
Brad


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## Bob5103 (Feb 13, 2016)

Using a dual fence system is a recipe for disaster! DONT DO IT you would be trapping the work piece. It will create a kick back every time. However you are kind of on the right track. Use a feather board on the left side before the blade where the work piece just enters the blade. You Tube table saw feather boards and you will see a multitude of different feather boards. Here are just a few examples.


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## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

Featherboard is ok on the table before the blade, and on the fence you can mount "hold downs" in front of, and behind the blade. See pic below.










The featherboard on the table top keeps the stock over on the fence, and the hold downs keep the stock from lifting up.

NEITHER is a replacement for having your saw set up correctly. Below is a good video for a Contractor table saw set up.


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

Whoa!!! I had no idea you have such awesome ink, Steve. That must have cost some bigazz bux!



> - therealSteveN


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

Go the *featherboards*, *'villain*... *"don't fence it in"*!


> .... That must have cost some bigazz bux!
> - Rich


Fe*$*tool green!


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## controlfreak (Jun 29, 2019)

My first thought was "DANGER WILL ROBINSON". As stated don't do it, you create a highway to hell between the fences and your belly will be the exit ramp when that wood backs up.


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## Kudzupatch (Feb 3, 2015)

No said why, so…..
Keep in mind that the saw blade is trying to push the wood TOWARDS you. When it binds up with the blade it will push… more like Launch the wood at you.


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## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

In Europe it is even recommend (mandatory in professional workshops?) to have the fence not going farther than the saw axle when ripping wood. This to allows liberation of inside tension in the wood that would cause it to deviate in the fence direction.


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## SMP (Aug 29, 2018)

Tried it once in a way when i was young and foolish, and it becomes literal slapstick comedy. The piece of wood wants to rise up and the blade violently throws the leading side of the board up and towards you. kind of like table saw vs human whack a mole


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

+1 on a featherboard before the leading edge of the blade. You might want to double check that your fence is parallel to blade to see if that is contributing to your problem. Also, on some cheap saws, the fence doesn't always clamp down parallel the first time so it may help to clamp, unclamp and reclamp to get it to be parallel.

BTW, You should also not use your fence and miter gauge at the same time either. If you want to use the fence as a stop for repeatable cross cuts, clamp a short board to the fence so that by the time the wood engages with the blade, there is a gap between the end of the wood and the fence.


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## WoodenDreams (Aug 23, 2018)

+1 Featherboards. I have found with my tablesaw, if you don't push down enough on the fence locking handle, Pushing a heavy board against the fence while making a rip cut, the fence can angle or lean over a slight bit. Causing a off cut from the marked cutting line.


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## xeddog (Mar 2, 2010)

Feather boards are a good idea, but I was wondering if you have checked to make sure the components of your saw are aligned properly.


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## tvrgeek (Nov 19, 2013)

Feather boards, Jessem guides, sleds. many safer ways to use a saw. 2 fences, An accident that will not wait to happen. Proper riving knife a must and of course as mentioned, good alignment.


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## cracknpop (Dec 20, 2011)

Hope the above convinced you to go the feather board route.

DON'T overlook therealSteveN and xeddog's recommendation to take the time to make sure your tablesaw is set up and aligned correctly.


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## Nashvillian (May 13, 2021)

Thanks, folks! I appreciate your advice, experience and patience with a newbie.


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## mdhills (Mar 12, 2011)

I've seen the dual fence idea used when doing cutting coves on the table saw. As others have said, the dual fence is a very bad idea for through cuts. The normal cutting arrangement is to apply pressure diagonally onto the finished piece-this keeps the piece against the fence and moves it forward in a straight line.

Ideas:

make sure you have a straight edge on your board before cutting along the fence.
is the wood stable, or is it opening up as you cut it? (do you have problems on sheet goods, too?)
confirm your fence itself is straight
spend time to align the fence to the blade
develop technique on how to keep wood aligned to the fence as it is fed. This will depend on the size of the workpiece and the cut you are doing. Are you ripping 8×4 plywood, chopsticks, etc.?

Some accessories to consider:

splitters (microjig and sharkguard both make aftermarket splitters)
jessem clear-cut stock guides 
feather boards
microjig gripper


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

ail of the above is why i have developed a technique of running the wood through while I stand aside, not in line with the blade. If I do get a kick back I won't be hit


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