# Your favorite rule (the measuring kind)



## WoodWorkWarrior (Sep 21, 2012)

Just curious to see what LJ users find to be their most useful rule. I tend to use my Incra 12" T-rule all the time. Having the built in square and being able to slide the rule along the edge of board giving nice straight parallel lines are why I use it the most.


----------



## lumberjoe (Mar 30, 2012)

1 - my 12" Starrett combination square.
2 - An Empire 12" rule from the combination square my son unscrewed too far and lost the spring and locking hardware.

For larger stuff, one of the dozen or so 30' stanley powerlocks does the trick


----------



## Loren (May 30, 2008)

I'm going over to metric, but for many years I've usually
had a little Imperial 4" double square I use a lot for laying
out joints, drill holes, depth gauging, and so forth.

The Veritas sliding square is another fave.


----------



## WoodWorkWarrior (Sep 21, 2012)

Ahhh metric. I wish we (the US) would switch over. I use metric at work for everything…except dimensions of physical parts (for everything, I mean for satellite trajectories, stellar distances, photon travel…fun stuff like that).


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

36" Starrett with 4R graduations….

Paid a few extra bucks for a NIST certified edition…. so I can be sure to win all fo the "your rule is off" measuring arguments at work :^)


----------



## lumberjoe (Mar 30, 2012)

If it's the one my father has (he's a machinist) it costs more than my table saw and every blade I have.

Edit, and yes you will won that argument every time. It's guaranteed accurate to one then thousandth or something ridiculous.


----------



## jmos (Nov 30, 2011)

I keep 2 in my shop apron, a 6" Starrett flat steel ruler and a 4" Starrett double square. Both are great.

If I need to go bigger I'll grab my 12" Starrett combo square or my 36" T-Square (Pinnacle I think).

Over that is my tape measure.


----------



## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

6" Empire combination square.


----------



## Smile_n_Nod (Jan 20, 2011)

I know many of the advantages for using the metric system in arenas such as science, but being able to divide a foot by halves, thirds, fourths, and sixths, and being able to divide an inch in halves, quarters, eighths, sixteens, etc. sure seems to make woodworking a little easier.


----------



## IsaacH (Aug 29, 2012)

When I was in construction I was an avid fan of the Stanley FatMax or a Lufkin Folding Rule.
Around the wood shop I use what ever I find, but I usually buy either Stanley of Lufkin. I dont want to burst any bubbles, but at less than 10 feet, your not really going to find more than a 1/64th out of calibration in any decent tape measure.


----------



## Tennessee (Jul 8, 2011)

6" Starrett flat rule, using mostly the metric side. Got a couple of them since I tend to leave them lying where i don't look…or my wife finds them in the rear pocket of my jeans in the washer.


----------



## WoodWorkWarrior (Sep 21, 2012)

Brett, I agree that dividing by 2's does make things easy for woodwork. At work we use decimal inches, ex. 1.375in. Sometimes I use that feature on my Incra for intricate parts (Incra has .001" holes). When dividing odd stackups, decimals are easier than fractions - and even though they aren't "exact" like a fraction, they are close enough for woodworking.

Lotta folks like Starrett, I need to check them out.


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

IIRC it cost about $100 and an extra $100 for the NIST cert. letter.

I felt we needed the NIST cert. as we use the rule to calibrate tape measures.

My biggest beaf with steel rules is that so many of them do not have the ends accurately ground so you can reference off of it.


----------



## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

Starrett 12" combo square … have three heads, square, 45° centering, and angle!

After that, a metric/American calipers that my uncle in Germany gave me about 40 years ago.


----------



## nwbusa (Feb 21, 2012)

My Starrett combo square and double square get a lot of use. I also have a set of steel cabinetmaker's rules I bought from Lee Valley, and I use the 18" & 24" versions frequently.


----------



## Charlie5791 (Feb 21, 2012)

I started using metric measurement a LOT when I embarked on my Blum Tandembox drawers for the kitchen. I have to admit that when I'm doing ANYTHING now that doesn't have to directly reference off of something already in inches, I go metric.I have a metric rule (that also has inches on it) and a metric tape measure (that also has inches on it) and they've become my favorite measuring tools. Unfortunately, the rule is 36 inches and the tape measure is for longer stuff as well. I would love to find some nice metric measuring rules in shorter lengths.

I don't buy into the "dividing inches is easier" thing. Anything you've always done is easier than doing something new. MIXING metric with inches gets confusing for me. But starting a new project from scratch, I prefer to use metric.


----------



## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

*Metric/English/furlongs/kernels … who really cares!*

Any unit is OK as long as it is consistent throughout a project.
The problem occurs when you buy hardware to fit the project.

I love angles there, there is no conversion required!


----------



## jmos (Nov 30, 2011)

Oldnovice does bring to mind a good point; I try to measure as little as possible in the shop.

I take my measurement directly off the work whenever I can, and often use a story stick (T track with movable pointers), my double square or combo square, or marking directly of the work piece, to transfer dimensions. I find it faster and more reliable.


----------



## IsaacH (Aug 29, 2012)

The rest of my post….

My post was inadvertently posted prematurely by someone using my computer at work…as I was saying:

…............. I dont want to burst any bubbles, but at less than 10 feet, your not really going to find more than a 1/64th out of calibration in any decent tape measure.

I do however have a combination square, a machinist square and a dial caliper for hi precision jobs (equipment setup), but nothing but the combi square ever gets used on wood.

Why try to achieve .0001 +/- accuracy on a medium that expands and contracts anyway? If I bought any Starrett…it would only be for the "Made In The USA" stamp on it, but I cant afford that stamp right now.

Im just sayin….


----------



## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

*I love angles there, there is no conversion required!*

I do all of my projects using radians.


----------



## longgone (May 5, 2009)

I have two starrett combo squares…one I purchased and the other given to me by a neighbor. I also have and use several of the Incra procucts… the 6" and 12" T-Rules, the 6" and 12" marking rules, the 6' bending rule, the Woodpeck 12" and 24" T Rules, Starrett 6 ft folding rule, 2 sets if Dial calipers and the Stanley Fat Max tape.
These all get used quite frequently and I find them all worth every penny I paid for them. 
Precision is very important to me…even working with wood that expands and contracts I would rather be precise. I could never fault anyone for going after as much precision as possible..no excuses…


----------



## teejk (Jan 19, 2011)

stanley's for me (12" comb square) or any of their tapes. I bought a Lufkin a few months ago and find it to be way too "busy" on the first 24" inches with all those increments…I don't need that precision on anything I do.


----------



## WoodWorkWarrior (Sep 21, 2012)

I suppose it all depends on the type of work you do and your personality. As an aerospace engineer who does woodworking…I like precision!

@BinghamtonEd - props to the RADIANS!


----------



## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

@BinghamtonEd. You use something like this picture 
to build wood working projects?

This is very interesting. 
How would one use radians to build a box for example?


----------



## NiteWalker (May 7, 2011)

6" and 12" shinwa steel rules.


----------



## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

*BinghamtonEd*

*As long as you use them consistently!*


----------



## RyanHaasen (Oct 29, 2011)

Same ruler as you! I love my Incra Ruler.


----------



## Danpaddles (Jan 26, 2012)

6 inch steel rule. I have one good one, and 4 or 5 cheap ones. They hide. Close second- 12 inch Starrett combination set.


----------



## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

I use aluminum "yard sticks" of 3ft, 4ft., and 5ft. in length. And yes I use squares, miters and TS sleds for squaring off those cuts as well.


----------



## Handtooler (Jul 24, 2012)

I use my folding boxwood and brass 36" rule from my apron pocket most;  followed by a 12' right hand tape for longer things. I get quite confused with the upside down numbers on the standard left hand tapes as I hold them in my left hand to extend them and write or mark with my right hand. Next a 6" Swanson combination square.

Just learning to use a sliding bevel rfeferenced from a protractor for layout of angles.


----------



## knockknock (Jun 13, 2012)

In order of decreasing use (most used first):

Empire 12 inch combination square
Veritas 15×8 cm precision square
Shinwa 4 inch japanese layout/combination square
Umeda 30×15 cm japanese flexable square
Sand's 2 foot straight edge (thick) ruler
Craftsman 1 meter/ 39 inch ruler
Stanley 6 foot tape


----------



## jusfine (May 22, 2010)

I have an assortment of Bridge City adjustable squares, use them the most, then my right handed Lee Valley tape measure.


----------



## JesseTutt (Aug 15, 2012)

24" WoodRiver in 1/32s, 1/64s and on the back something metric ;-)
6" WoodRiver in 1/32s, the great thing about this is the scale is also built into the end so I can lay the ruler flat and I have a 1/2" to set a router bit height or saw blade.
I have the 12" Incra T ruler and it is great for drawing lines, but I usually use a marking gauge for < 6"


----------



## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

*I have an assortment of Bridge City adjustable squares,*

Wow. I have been eyeballing the CS-6 or CS-12 on feeBay and just can't seem to commit the coin to "win"


----------



## Kreegan (Jul 10, 2012)

I primarily use a 6" Mitutoyo combination square for small scale and precision work, and a 16' no name measuring tape for longer, less precise measurements.

Rich


----------



## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

I also use my folding rule as it is probably the best choice for inside measurements.

I worked with laser interferometers which can measure down to 0.15nm but that is a little overkill for anything in woodworking except for the possibility of measuring expansion/shrinkage of lumber.


----------



## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

I guess I should specify that I was goofing around when I stated that I use radians. I'm not a masochist. I only use radians at work, and even then, there are standard code libraries that do the math for me.


----------



## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

Why do I have soooo many devices?? The most used is a dumb old Stanley 12" combo square and a stainless 12" "office" ruler. They are close to the bench.
Tapes, calipers, micrometers, 48" heavy ruler,story sticks, and all that stuff are eagerly standin' by waiting to earn their keep.
Bill


----------



## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

My wife rolls her eyes any time we have to measure anything at a store or something, and I use a dollar bill. 6.14" all day, every day, and I almost always have one on me. Usually not more than one, unfortunately.


----------



## Wdwerker (Apr 14, 2012)

I like my FastCap 16 ft tape. It has the 16 th lines numbered in red the whole length . Great for late in the day with aging eyes.
If I need extreme accuracy I use Metric tape, 1 mm is smaller than a 16th.
My Starrett 24" combination square is great for layout work on the bench.


----------



## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

*BinghamtonEd,*

I was hoping you didn't have a protractor divided into Radians!

I like Radians take a look at my project http://lumberjocks.com/projects/16335 this uses radians and degrees interchangeably without any problems!


----------



## REO (Sep 20, 2012)

I have 25 foot Stanly's all over the place. plain framing and speed squares. trig for angles. For jigs and fixtures I use the mill for holes and a CMM for checking.


----------



## WoodWorkWarrior (Sep 21, 2012)

I do have a no name combo square that I think came from Home Depot. And another no name 16' tape for longer stuff.

Radians are best left for calculations. I use them regularly at work. I have the pleasure of aligning stuff at work to a few arcseconds, to much for woodworking? But laser interferometry, that's the real precise stuff. Down to a few waves, i.e. on the order of nanometers, now that's about as exact as you can get!


----------



## Gregn (Mar 26, 2010)

I have a matched set of steel cabinet makers rules in 6",12" and 24". That I use for just about most projects.


----------



## madts (Dec 30, 2011)

I want to go metric all the way. 
But I am having a hard time finding an equivalent for a 12" starrett rule for the square


----------



## roman (Sep 28, 2007)

there some who couldn't hit a barn with a broom from 10 feet

there are some, given a shotgun and 20 rounds of ammo, with 20 skeet who couldnt hit a single skeet and some blow each skeet into pieces and some who can peg the bulls eye with a rifle at 2 feet, and some who can hit the bulls eye at 1,000 ft when its moving

Eye sight and the calibration of numbers and its accuracy is somewhat determined by the task at hand and the individuals own challenges that be front them ie…..if you need glasses like I do to see, removing the glasses means removing the ability to read the measuring instrument preferred.

A very sharp pencil and a good tape measure has always worked for me and in the event I do not trust my "eye" i pull out the micrometer and/or callipers.


----------



## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

*Madts,*

Metric combo


----------



## MonteCristo (May 29, 2012)

I have a lot of rules, including a Starrett 12" hook rule that is really nice, but Starrett is IMO is overpriced these days. I really like my 6" Shinwa steel rule from Lee Valley but Shinwa, being Japanese, is now pricey too. For me, there is no one-size-fits-all. Rules are like clamps, it's hard to have too many.


----------



## MJCD (Nov 28, 2011)

Great Question; excellent posts. And, thanks to the Forum Members for both.

I've been doing M&Ts for quite some time now, and the Incra 6" has won my heart - precise, excellent to work with. For combo squares, the Starrett is my go to.

I'm more than halfway to metric - all of my new work is metric, and only when I work from purchased plans do I use imperial. Metric is a place to live - you do not want to visit!

MJCD


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*radians*

I suppose you sketch up all your designs using the sherical coordinate system too? :^O

I have to confess….. the wittle engineer in my head gets the willies whenever i can aquire any kind of precision measuring device.

What makes matters worse is that we have a customer at work (that makes 20 ft. wide ink jet printers) for whom we put together custom allignment tool kits. Serious drooling going on here. All Starett wi-fi digital micrometers that read to .0001", with a data collection wi-fi network for reading and recording multiple devices during the press alignment.

Way cool! I want one… and can use it to do the allignment on my wife's mixer :^)

Is there a 12 step program for this problem?


----------



## cabmaker (Sep 16, 2010)

Stanley 25 ft. X 3/4 inch. It will do amazing things.


----------



## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

Have a look here :
http://logancabinetshoppe.com/blog/2012/09/this-is-why-i-hate-measuring/

Otherwise Excellent site with great video
start here :
http://www.logancabinetshoppe.com/podcast.php


----------



## Danpaddles (Jan 26, 2012)

This was my favorite, until I got a new (satin) set- no luck selling it yet- anyone here interested?

http://indianapolis.craigslist.org/tls/3188102226.html


----------



## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

Last night at 2am my daughter and I watched The Woodsmith Shop that I DVR'd this week…this episode was about layout tools like rules and squares…made me think of this thread.


----------

