# Relief Carving Finish



## ZachMcd (1 mo ago)

Hi everyone,

I am finally starting to get back into relief carving after picking up awhile ago and only doing simple block carving. Still have ways to go but am always having trouble with the finish. I am carving on basswood and every book I read or video I watch tells me danish oil is a great finish. However my experience with this has come out blotchy and uneven. Is this something that will fix itself as my skills hopefully improve? Or am I missing something. I attached a couple images

-Zmcd


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## bilyo (May 20, 2015)

I don't see the blotching that you refer to in the photos. I suggest that you just keep on doing what you are doing. Nice work.
There are other finishes that you might try, but I'm not sure you would get notably different results other than changes in gloss. You might try one lovingly called Shine Juice. It is equal parts of tung oil, shellac, and denatured alcohol. Turners like to use it.


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## LesB (Dec 21, 2008)

Bass wood and other soft woods are highly prone to "blotchy" outcomes when applying stain or colored oil like Danish oil directly. I would suggest you first apply a coat of de-waxed shellac (Zinssers seal coat) before applying any other finish. The choice of finishes range from poly urethane (if it is going outside use the exterior type) Danish oil (colored or clear), BLO, processed walnut oil (Murphys or Doctors), more Shellac, or varnish.
IMHO if it is going out side I would avoid the top coat finishes (which will eventually break down and peel) and stick with the penetrating oils which are easier to refinish.


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## Phil32 (Aug 31, 2018)

Relief carving exposes many different angles of wood grain. End grain will absorb more of any fluid than side grain. Any fluid will cause some wood grain to change color. A solution I use is a water-based sealer over the entire carving, even if I plan to selectively stain undercuts or incised lines for emphasis.


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## ZachMcd (1 mo ago)

bilyo said:


> I don't see the blotching that you refer to in the photos. I suggest that you just keep on doing what you are doing. Nice work. There are other finishes that you might try, but I'm not sure you would get notably different results other than changes in gloss. You might try one lovingly called Shine Juice. It is equal parts of tung oil, shellac, and denatured alcohol. Turners like to use it.


 Thank you!


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## ZachMcd (1 mo ago)

bilyo said:


> I don't see the blotching that you refer to in the photos. I suggest that you just keep on doing what you are doing. Nice work.
> There are other finishes that you might try, but I'm not sure you would get notably different results other than changes in gloss. You might try one lovingly called Shine Juice. It is equal parts of tung oil, shellac, and denatured alcohol. Turners like to use it.


Thank you!


LesB said:


> Bass wood and other soft woods are highly prone to "blotchy" outcomes when applying stain or colored oil like Danish oil directly. I would suggest you first apply a coat of de-waxed shellac (Zinssers seal coat) before applying any other finish. The choice of finishes range from poly urethane (if it is going outside use the exterior type) Danish oil (colored or clear), BLO, processed walnut oil (Murphys or Doctors), more Shellac, or varnish.
> IMHO if it is going out side I would avoid the top coat finishes (which will eventually break down and peel) and stick with the penetrating oils which are easier to refinish.


Great. Thank you for the advice!


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## ZachMcd (1 mo ago)

Phil32 said:


> Relief carving exposes many different angles of wood grain. End grain will absorb more of any fluid than side grain. Any fluid will cause some wood grain to change color. A solution I use is a water-based sealer over the entire carving, even if I plan to selectively stain undercuts or incised lines for emphasis.
> 
> View attachment 3862439
> View attachment 3862440


Thank you! and beautiful work. Do you mind if I ask what brand of water-based sealer you use? Thanks again


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## ClaudeF (Sep 22, 2013)

I agree with Phil - a sealer first to prevent the stain soaking into the end grain. I use a water-based matte acrylic varnish (same aisle in hobby stores as the acrylic paints), thinned 50-50 with water. I apply it all over, then do 3-4 coats of it on end grain where I don't want the stain to soak in.

Claude


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