# Box Building



## KentS (May 27, 2009)

*Thin Strip Sanding.*

In my box bulding, I have been using a lot of thin strips for accent pieces, including miter splines.
Since they need to be accurate and consistent, I need an easy way to sand them. Although I own a Timesaver wide belt sander at my door shop, I do this work at my shop at home, so I don't want to make the trip unless I'm really doing a lot of pieces.

I have a floor model Jet spindle sander, so I built a simple jig that bolts to the top.
It is simply a fence with a pivot hole at one end, and a slot at the other to adjust the thickness.
I feed the piece from one end-be sure to hang on-it will shoot out the back side. After getting the piece fed far enough, I reach over with my left hand and pull it through. It is important to maintain a steady feed speed, as it will dip if you slow down or stop. It is usually better to set it a little thick and make several passes.
Doing both sides will clean up your saw marks.


























I drilled and tapped two 5/16" 18 hole in the top to accept the bolts









The jig can easily adapt to a bench top spindle sander, or even a sander on a drill press.

Thanks for looking


----------



## MikeGager (Jun 15, 2009)

KentS said:


> *Thin Strip Sanding.*
> 
> In my box bulding, I have been using a lot of thin strips for accent pieces, including miter splines.
> Since they need to be accurate and consistent, I need an easy way to sand them. Although I own a Timesaver wide belt sander at my door shop, I do this work at my shop at home, so I don't want to make the trip unless I'm really doing a lot of pieces.
> ...


good idea, thanks


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

KentS said:


> *Thin Strip Sanding.*
> 
> In my box bulding, I have been using a lot of thin strips for accent pieces, including miter splines.
> Since they need to be accurate and consistent, I need an easy way to sand them. Although I own a Timesaver wide belt sander at my door shop, I do this work at my shop at home, so I don't want to make the trip unless I'm really doing a lot of pieces.
> ...


I like this.

I, too, use some thin strips for my rolling pins. I was using my single point bandsaw re-sawing jig as a fence but am unsatisfied with the "smoothness" of the finished strips. Hope you don't mind if I "borrow" this idea.

Lew


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

KentS said:


> *Thin Strip Sanding.*
> 
> In my box bulding, I have been using a lot of thin strips for accent pieces, including miter splines.
> Since they need to be accurate and consistent, I need an easy way to sand them. Although I own a Timesaver wide belt sander at my door shop, I do this work at my shop at home, so I don't want to make the trip unless I'm really doing a lot of pieces.
> ...


That is SO simple, effective, and just plain COOL!

Thank you very much!


----------



## mwm5053 (Feb 27, 2010)

KentS said:


> *Thin Strip Sanding.*
> 
> In my box bulding, I have been using a lot of thin strips for accent pieces, including miter splines.
> Since they need to be accurate and consistent, I need an easy way to sand them. Although I own a Timesaver wide belt sander at my door shop, I do this work at my shop at home, so I don't want to make the trip unless I'm really doing a lot of pieces.
> ...


That's a good idea I don't have a spindle sander but I bet you could do the same on a drill press with a DP table and a sanding drum

Thanks really good idea.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

KentS said:


> *Thin Strip Sanding.*
> 
> In my box bulding, I have been using a lot of thin strips for accent pieces, including miter splines.
> Since they need to be accurate and consistent, I need an easy way to sand them. Although I own a Timesaver wide belt sander at my door shop, I do this work at my shop at home, so I don't want to make the trip unless I'm really doing a lot of pieces.
> ...


I have the wood for the fence, so now I just need the tool…
Really nice idea.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

KentS said:


> *Thin Strip Sanding.*
> 
> In my box bulding, I have been using a lot of thin strips for accent pieces, including miter splines.
> Since they need to be accurate and consistent, I need an easy way to sand them. Although I own a Timesaver wide belt sander at my door shop, I do this work at my shop at home, so I don't want to make the trip unless I'm really doing a lot of pieces.
> ...


great suggestion. I've sanded the sandpaper on my feed belt on my wide sander when going too thin. I'll have to make one of these.


----------



## bigike (May 25, 2009)

KentS said:


> *Thin Strip Sanding.*
> 
> In my box bulding, I have been using a lot of thin strips for accent pieces, including miter splines.
> Since they need to be accurate and consistent, I need an easy way to sand them. Although I own a Timesaver wide belt sander at my door shop, I do this work at my shop at home, so I don't want to make the trip unless I'm really doing a lot of pieces.
> ...


You could do this with your drillpress too, but this seems like a better idea. I just hate drilling my tools though.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

KentS said:


> *Thin Strip Sanding.*
> 
> In my box bulding, I have been using a lot of thin strips for accent pieces, including miter splines.
> Since they need to be accurate and consistent, I need an easy way to sand them. Although I own a Timesaver wide belt sander at my door shop, I do this work at my shop at home, so I don't want to make the trip unless I'm really doing a lot of pieces.
> ...


Neat idea.


----------



## KentS (May 27, 2009)

KentS said:


> *Thin Strip Sanding.*
> 
> In my box bulding, I have been using a lot of thin strips for accent pieces, including miter splines.
> Since they need to be accurate and consistent, I need an easy way to sand them. Although I own a Timesaver wide belt sander at my door shop, I do this work at my shop at home, so I don't want to make the trip unless I'm really doing a lot of pieces.
> ...


Ike, you could mount it to a piece of plywood and c-clamp that to your sander.
Then you wouldn't have to drill into your machine.


----------



## Grumpy (Nov 9, 2007)

KentS said:


> *Thin Strip Sanding.*
> 
> In my box bulding, I have been using a lot of thin strips for accent pieces, including miter splines.
> Since they need to be accurate and consistent, I need an easy way to sand them. Although I own a Timesaver wide belt sander at my door shop, I do this work at my shop at home, so I don't want to make the trip unless I'm really doing a lot of pieces.
> ...


Kent, you just gave me an idea for my drum sander on the drill press. 
I can see it would work on it as well. Thanks for the heads up.


----------



## RKW (Dec 17, 2008)

KentS said:


> *Thin Strip Sanding.*
> 
> In my box bulding, I have been using a lot of thin strips for accent pieces, including miter splines.
> Since they need to be accurate and consistent, I need an easy way to sand them. Although I own a Timesaver wide belt sander at my door shop, I do this work at my shop at home, so I don't want to make the trip unless I'm really doing a lot of pieces.
> ...


good idea Kent, i was planning on building an auxillary table for my thickness planer to achieve this. I may reconsider now.


----------



## lanwater (May 14, 2010)

KentS said:


> *Thin Strip Sanding.*
> 
> In my box bulding, I have been using a lot of thin strips for accent pieces, including miter splines.
> Since they need to be accurate and consistent, I need an easy way to sand them. Although I own a Timesaver wide belt sander at my door shop, I do this work at my shop at home, so I don't want to make the trip unless I'm really doing a lot of pieces.
> ...


Great idea Kent.

Sanding those strips has been a challenge.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

KentS said:


> *Thin Strip Sanding.*
> 
> In my box bulding, I have been using a lot of thin strips for accent pieces, including miter splines.
> Since they need to be accurate and consistent, I need an easy way to sand them. Although I own a Timesaver wide belt sander at my door shop, I do this work at my shop at home, so I don't want to make the trip unless I'm really doing a lot of pieces.
> ...


This looks good Kent. I presume you are pushing the strip through against the rotation of the sanding sleeve and that the 'back' you are referring to is where the operator would be standing? Just checking because I tend to misinterpret back and front on machines.


----------



## KentS (May 27, 2009)

KentS said:


> *Thin Strip Sanding.*
> 
> In my box bulding, I have been using a lot of thin strips for accent pieces, including miter splines.
> Since they need to be accurate and consistent, I need an easy way to sand them. Although I own a Timesaver wide belt sander at my door shop, I do this work at my shop at home, so I don't want to make the trip unless I'm really doing a lot of pieces.
> ...


You are right Mike. I'm standing on the right side of the machine, feeding right to left.
I let go of one piece and it shot back out of the sander to the right. Of course I wasn't directly behind it. There is not a lot of force, but I would rather not be hit.


----------



## rance (Sep 30, 2009)

KentS said:


> *Thin Strip Sanding.*
> 
> In my box bulding, I have been using a lot of thin strips for accent pieces, including miter splines.
> Since they need to be accurate and consistent, I need an easy way to sand them. Although I own a Timesaver wide belt sander at my door shop, I do this work at my shop at home, so I don't want to make the trip unless I'm really doing a lot of pieces.
> ...


I like the fact that you are not afraid to modify your tools to accomodate your work. Tools are meant to help you, and if it means drilling a small hole in the surface, then so be it. IMO, tools are meant to be used, and sometimes used up. I see folks building workbenchs using Paduk and such. I would never want to work on a bench like that, I'd be afraid of scratching it. LOL!


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

KentS said:


> *Thin Strip Sanding.*
> 
> In my box bulding, I have been using a lot of thin strips for accent pieces, including miter splines.
> Since they need to be accurate and consistent, I need an easy way to sand them. Although I own a Timesaver wide belt sander at my door shop, I do this work at my shop at home, so I don't want to make the trip unless I'm really doing a lot of pieces.
> ...


*Kent*
Tracking down your "over-engineered" comment on FreddyS's project, meaning there is no such thing. I still think there is a meaning to the concept…......I recall appliances and items over the years that just seemed to have a lot gizmos and stuff associated with them, but still didn't function any better than a simpler one.

Now this is not an over-engineered project. I would have tried to figure out a way to keep the piece of wood from flying through if you forgot to hold on. In fact, it strikes me that a kid could have a lot of fun with this thing seeing how far he could shoot things. This is an idea I will keep in mind, I might be able to rig something similar on my spindle sander. I will probably over engineer it, however….....(-:

........admittedly, I never use the phrase except in a humerous context…........

Have a good one….......I am trying to finish my next over engineered project in a row…....(-:

..........and I don't hesitate to modify tools as well…............


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

KentS said:


> *Thin Strip Sanding.*
> 
> In my box bulding, I have been using a lot of thin strips for accent pieces, including miter splines.
> Since they need to be accurate and consistent, I need an easy way to sand them. Although I own a Timesaver wide belt sander at my door shop, I do this work at my shop at home, so I don't want to make the trip unless I'm really doing a lot of pieces.
> ...


Oh, how accurate in terms of thickness can you sand a strip? I do pretty well making thin strips on my TS, but the sanding can change the dimensions, and thinking of accuracy for splines…........

I use my 12" disc sander to bring pieces to a press fit dimension…....but that wouldn't work for thicknessing long strips in an accurate fashion….....

Thanks in advance….......


----------



## KentS (May 27, 2009)

KentS said:


> *Thin Strip Sanding.*
> 
> In my box bulding, I have been using a lot of thin strips for accent pieces, including miter splines.
> Since they need to be accurate and consistent, I need an easy way to sand them. Although I own a Timesaver wide belt sander at my door shop, I do this work at my shop at home, so I don't want to make the trip unless I'm really doing a lot of pieces.
> ...


Jim, I've had good luck with accuracy, however, I'm making several passes. I change the setting and sneak up on it. On the last setting, I run it though twice which seems to be better. One thing that is important is to keep the feed speed consistent. That will change the thickness a bit. That is the advantage to a drum sander, but since I don't have one yet, this is a cheap alternative. I have used it for splines recently and it worked well.

As far as my comment about over engineering, if you have seen my other jigs, you'll know this has been by far my most simple. I needed something quick becauase I was in the middle of a project. You won't believe the "engineering" that was going on in my mind. I had to slap myself and wake up in order to do something this easy.


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

KentS said:


> *Thin Strip Sanding.*
> 
> In my box bulding, I have been using a lot of thin strips for accent pieces, including miter splines.
> Since they need to be accurate and consistent, I need an easy way to sand them. Although I own a Timesaver wide belt sander at my door shop, I do this work at my shop at home, so I don't want to make the trip unless I'm really doing a lot of pieces.
> ...


Oh, that's how it is done….......a slap will keep you from over engineering. I'll remember that…........(-:

Hey thanks for the info. I doubt a drum sander is in my near future, so things like this are useful.


----------



## KentS (May 27, 2009)

*New Website*

I have been busy lately, not only building boxes, but beginning to try and market them.

I just opened my website throuh Volusion. http://www.volusion.com/

After checking out several companies like them, I thought they fit my needs the best. You can set up to take credit cards through them, so it is pretty much one stop shopping. The template I chose is free, but they offer upgrades if you want. Then they charge a monthly fee. That varies according to the plan you choose.

Check it out if you get a chance

http://www.kreationsbykent.com/

EDIT: I have closed this website. There were some ongoing fees for the credit card processing that I just could not handle. I am selling my boxes on Etsy for now.

http://www.etsy.com/shop/kreationsbykent


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

KentS said:


> *New Website*
> 
> I have been busy lately, not only building boxes, but beginning to try and market them.
> 
> ...


sweet. congratulations on the move. the site is has good content, text content is good, and navigation is easy, but it seems a bit flat and there seems to be too much additional content on the page that takes away from focusing the potential client to the actual product (top headers, top menus, side menus, side advertisements, bottom text, etc…)

this is a design concept, so not something that changing one thing would really make much of a difference, and I know how those hosting services work by providing you with a template that mostly puts you in a set look.

for what it's worth - it's better than many other woodworking sites I've seen, and the above comments are nothing more than observation with a hint of points of improvements


----------



## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

KentS said:


> *New Website*
> 
> I have been busy lately, not only building boxes, but beginning to try and market them.
> 
> ...


Considering the limitations of a free template, I think it looks pretty darned good. Naturally, they aren't going to make it look fantastic, because they want you to upgrade.

I'll be interested to hear follow-up from you to see what kind of interest you generate.

One piece of constructive criticism: I'm thinking that folks interested in shelling out for a quality box are going to want a peek at the inside, even if there is nothing particularly special in there.


----------



## j_olsen (Sep 19, 2009)

KentS said:


> *New Website*
> 
> I have been busy lately, not only building boxes, but beginning to try and market them.
> 
> ...


Nice look to the content and if I may add my 2 cents worth-along with what the others have said if at all possible a breif description of materials ussed and size would be something that I personally look for-again just my opinion


----------



## JoeyG (Mar 19, 2011)

KentS said:


> *New Website*
> 
> I have been busy lately, not only building boxes, but beginning to try and market them.
> 
> ...


I have been working on this same thing myself. I have been thinking of starting a website but have not had the time to do it yet. What I did do was make a facebook group for my boxes and that has keep me steady. It is great just starting out, but I will need to branch out soon. Thanks for the info on how you are trying to market your boxes. The shared experience in all aspects of woodworking is what makes this one of my favorite sites. I look forward to seeing how this works out for you. Here is the link to my facebook group if you would like to check it out. http://www.facebook.com/groups/213408222025323?ap=1


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

KentS said:


> *New Website*
> 
> I have been busy lately, not only building boxes, but beginning to try and market them.
> 
> ...


Congrats Kent.


----------



## RKW (Dec 17, 2008)

KentS said:


> *New Website*
> 
> I have been busy lately, not only building boxes, but beginning to try and market them.
> 
> ...


Kent, i think its a good format. I will be interested in hearing how well it does. Good luck.

by the way, How is the hand doing?


----------



## majeagle1 (Oct 29, 2008)

KentS said:


> *New Website*
> 
> I have been busy lately, not only building boxes, but beginning to try and market them.
> 
> ...


Great start Kent, look forward to how things go with your new site. I agree with Charlie and Jeff on the inside views and wood types / sizes. One of these days I will make the time to try this kind of venture…..


----------



## KentS (May 27, 2009)

KentS said:


> *New Website*
> 
> I have been busy lately, not only building boxes, but beginning to try and market them.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the comments guys. I did get a llitle frustrated with the stock template. My intention was to start by spending as little money as possible. If it takes off, I fully intend to invest to make the site more what I want. In the meantime, some of the suggestions could be doable now.

Randy, The hand is healing fine, but with the severed tendon it is taking way too long. I've got a lot to do and can't do anything in my shop yet. I still can't play bass at church for a while either.


----------



## ratchet (Jan 12, 2008)

KentS said:


> *New Website*
> 
> I have been busy lately, not only building boxes, but beginning to try and market them.
> 
> ...


I think the site showcases your boxes nicely. Spend later when the $$$ come rolling in. Just remember you must drive traffic to your site. They won't get there by themselves.
As a start I suggest you put the site address in your signature, instead of (or in addition to) "* The goal is---More tools!"


----------



## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

KentS said:


> *New Website*
> 
> I have been busy lately, not only building boxes, but beginning to try and market them.
> 
> ...


Wow!! You certainly have been busy!! Those are some good looking boxes. Good luck. I am sure they will do well.


----------



## lanwater (May 14, 2010)

KentS said:


> *New Website*
> 
> I have been busy lately, not only building boxes, but beginning to try and market them.
> 
> ...


Kent: The site structure looks fine. I felt the picture of the boxes were a litle flat.

Good luck.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

KentS said:


> *New Website*
> 
> I have been busy lately, not only building boxes, but beginning to try and market them.
> 
> ...


Looking really nice, wish you luck.
Congratulations!
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## 58j35bonanza (Jan 11, 2011)

KentS said:


> *New Website*
> 
> I have been busy lately, not only building boxes, but beginning to try and market them.
> 
> ...


Real nice site! I wish you luck.


----------



## KentS (May 27, 2009)

*Photography Light Box*

I posted one of my boxes earlier in the week and promised I would blog my light box.
If you have researched this you will know I obviously did not come up with this idea. In fact, I think there are others on Ljs. This is simply my version. I am a woodworker, not a photographer, so take all this with a grain of salt. As I develop the box further, I will add to the blog. I have not done anything yet I didn't tweak over time, so why change now, huh! It's called design evolution, not fixing screw-ups.

The box is pretty simple. I used 3/4" plywood for the bottom, 1/4" ply for the back, and scrap poplar for the side frames. anything you have will work. I have even seen them out of cardboard boxes with the sides cut out.

I forgot to measure mine, but the size is determined my what you plan on photographing. I will primarily do boxes. I painted mine black because--well just because. If you know me, you know I don't do simple. And of course I apologize-there is no exotic hardwood on this.

The white fabric is to diffuse the light so there is not a harsh glare. Notice I have mounted the first layer and folded it so the second layer remains loose. I am able to control the light this way by folding out the top layer over the first when needed. I happen to find these lights at Lowes, but you may use what is available. Small wattage seems better, but you could also use a dimmer, which I may add later. There are obviously different ways to control the light. With different brackets, you can set the lights where you need them for the different projects you might have. You have to experiment with each project. I like the power strip mounted on the back of the box. I can turn all the lights on and off at once, or use individual switches on the lights themselves. I used blck felt to line the inside. It is mounted with vecro. I have other colors that can easily be changed as needed.

If you have questions, feel free to ask. I probably won't know, but I can make something up.


----------



## SgtSnafu (Jun 11, 2009)

KentS said:


> *Photography Light Box*
> 
> I posted one of my boxes earlier in the week and promised I would blog my light box.
> If you have researched this you will know I obviously did not come up with this idea. In fact, I think there are others on Ljs. This is simply my version. I am a woodworker, not a photographer, so take all this with a grain of salt. As I develop the box further, I will add to the blog. I have not done anything yet I didn't tweak over time, so why change now, huh! It's called design evolution, not fixing screw-ups.
> ...


I have been thinking of building one of these, yours turned out very well.

Thanks for sharing..


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

KentS said:


> *Photography Light Box*
> 
> I posted one of my boxes earlier in the week and promised I would blog my light box.
> If you have researched this you will know I obviously did not come up with this idea. In fact, I think there are others on Ljs. This is simply my version. I am a woodworker, not a photographer, so take all this with a grain of salt. As I develop the box further, I will add to the blog. I have not done anything yet I didn't tweak over time, so why change now, huh! It's called design evolution, not fixing screw-ups.
> ...


nicely done Kent, the black background gives it a warmer tone and a pristine look (albeit less light).


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

KentS said:


> *Photography Light Box*
> 
> I posted one of my boxes earlier in the week and promised I would blog my light box.
> If you have researched this you will know I obviously did not come up with this idea. In fact, I think there are others on Ljs. This is simply my version. I am a woodworker, not a photographer, so take all this with a grain of salt. As I develop the box further, I will add to the blog. I have not done anything yet I didn't tweak over time, so why change now, huh! It's called design evolution, not fixing screw-ups.
> ...


Kent: Does it fold up for storage.

Are the small spots Halogen lights?

Very nice job on the design.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

KentS said:


> *Photography Light Box*
> 
> I posted one of my boxes earlier in the week and promised I would blog my light box.
> If you have researched this you will know I obviously did not come up with this idea. In fact, I think there are others on Ljs. This is simply my version. I am a woodworker, not a photographer, so take all this with a grain of salt. As I develop the box further, I will add to the blog. I have not done anything yet I didn't tweak over time, so why change now, huh! It's called design evolution, not fixing screw-ups.
> ...


Nice job, Kent!

That looks like a good thing to do… to remove sharp shadows, etc.

I guess, if you wanted to, you could drape another colored fabric down the back, onto the bottom toward the front.

Did you use Sheet material for the white fabric?

Thank you…


----------



## donbee (Feb 7, 2009)

KentS said:


> *Photography Light Box*
> 
> I posted one of my boxes earlier in the week and promised I would blog my light box.
> If you have researched this you will know I obviously did not come up with this idea. In fact, I think there are others on Ljs. This is simply my version. I am a woodworker, not a photographer, so take all this with a grain of salt. As I develop the box further, I will add to the blog. I have not done anything yet I didn't tweak over time, so why change now, huh! It's called design evolution, not fixing screw-ups.
> ...


Please don't overlook the value of some sharp reflections (called speculars) to make the whole thing sparkle.
The tent gives nice, smooth overall lighting, but cross lighting and bright speculars will make it sing.

To get the cross lighting, which emphasizes the shape, make one of the tent lamps, preferably on one side or the other, twice as strong as the other lights. This will be your main, the other ones the fill lights.

A small point source near the camera and not shining through the tent will give the sparkly speculars.

Not to be overlooked, too, are backlights. Down low and behind the subject, they give sharp definition to the outline. Usually only one backlight.

Try it, you'll like it!


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

KentS said:


> *Photography Light Box*
> 
> I posted one of my boxes earlier in the week and promised I would blog my light box.
> If you have researched this you will know I obviously did not come up with this idea. In fact, I think there are others on Ljs. This is simply my version. I am a woodworker, not a photographer, so take all this with a grain of salt. As I develop the box further, I will add to the blog. I have not done anything yet I didn't tweak over time, so why change now, huh! It's called design evolution, not fixing screw-ups.
> ...


I'm too busy catching little glimpses of all those home-brewed shop fixtures in the background!


----------



## KentS (May 27, 2009)

KentS said:


> *Photography Light Box*
> 
> I posted one of my boxes earlier in the week and promised I would blog my light box.
> If you have researched this you will know I obviously did not come up with this idea. In fact, I think there are others on Ljs. This is simply my version. I am a woodworker, not a photographer, so take all this with a grain of salt. As I develop the box further, I will add to the blog. I have not done anything yet I didn't tweak over time, so why change now, huh! It's called design evolution, not fixing screw-ups.
> ...


Sharon, I edited the information. I also have other colors of fabric. They attach with velcro.

Karson, Mine does not fold up. I though about it, but I have a big shop so I wasn't worried about space. I plan on needing it enough to leave it set up. The lights are not halogen, but they would work.

Joe, It is not sheet material, but that would work. It is fun to go to the fabric alone. All the women looked shocked when they hear you are buying it for your own projects. If we treat women like this, they call it sexist. (Not you-nice ladies on Ljs)

Don, I'm still playing with the lighting for best results-Thanks.

Al, You can see all those jigs in my projects. There is also a slide show of my shop-I think it is in a blog.


----------



## majeagle1 (Oct 29, 2008)

KentS said:


> *Photography Light Box*
> 
> I posted one of my boxes earlier in the week and promised I would blog my light box.
> If you have researched this you will know I obviously did not come up with this idea. In fact, I think there are others on Ljs. This is simply my version. I am a woodworker, not a photographer, so take all this with a grain of salt. As I develop the box further, I will add to the blog. I have not done anything yet I didn't tweak over time, so why change now, huh! It's called design evolution, not fixing screw-ups.
> ...


This is very nice Kent, one of those projects I keep telling myself " I need to do"..... you have re-kindled the thought so now, maybe it will even get done!

I love your line: " Design evolution"..... I need to remember that as I use that concept quite often LOL

I will be checking Lowes for these light, do you remember what they are called?


----------



## KentS (May 27, 2009)

KentS said:


> *Photography Light Box*
> 
> I posted one of my boxes earlier in the week and promised I would blog my light box.
> If you have researched this you will know I obviously did not come up with this idea. In fact, I think there are others on Ljs. This is simply my version. I am a woodworker, not a photographer, so take all this with a grain of salt. As I develop the box further, I will add to the blog. I have not done anything yet I didn't tweak over time, so why change now, huh! It's called design evolution, not fixing screw-ups.
> ...


Gene, I don't know what they were called-Sorry (Little lights maybe???)


----------



## longgone (May 5, 2009)

KentS said:


> *Photography Light Box*
> 
> I posted one of my boxes earlier in the week and promised I would blog my light box.
> If you have researched this you will know I obviously did not come up with this idea. In fact, I think there are others on Ljs. This is simply my version. I am a woodworker, not a photographer, so take all this with a grain of salt. As I develop the box further, I will add to the blog. I have not done anything yet I didn't tweak over time, so why change now, huh! It's called design evolution, not fixing screw-ups.
> ...


Grear setup Kent. Some great design ideas… 
I have one of those foldable 30" photo cubes I have been using but it definitely needs improvement (replacement). It is convenient when I want to carry it outside to get natural light pictures but that is about the oly good feature it has.
I recently bought some thick poster board at a art shop. It comes in a multitude of colors and I am planning on building a foldable plywood box that I can place the poster board in it for different background colors. One negative about the oster board I just relized is that I would not be able to shine and diffuse a light through it as would be possible with cloth.


----------



## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

KentS said:


> *Photography Light Box*
> 
> I posted one of my boxes earlier in the week and promised I would blog my light box.
> If you have researched this you will know I obviously did not come up with this idea. In fact, I think there are others on Ljs. This is simply my version. I am a woodworker, not a photographer, so take all this with a grain of salt. As I develop the box further, I will add to the blog. I have not done anything yet I didn't tweak over time, so why change now, huh! It's called design evolution, not fixing screw-ups.
> ...


Just what I need… can I build one big enough to house the Torque..??
seriously though this is cool and really a must for taking half way decent pics…
Thanks for sharing…


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

KentS said:


> *Photography Light Box*
> 
> I posted one of my boxes earlier in the week and promised I would blog my light box.
> If you have researched this you will know I obviously did not come up with this idea. In fact, I think there are others on Ljs. This is simply my version. I am a woodworker, not a photographer, so take all this with a grain of salt. As I develop the box further, I will add to the blog. I have not done anything yet I didn't tweak over time, so why change now, huh! It's called design evolution, not fixing screw-ups.
> ...


Nice work, Kent.


----------



## KentS (May 27, 2009)

*Light Box Tweak*

I updated my light box to make the lights more adjustable. The rods simply slip into the holes on the sides.
I found an extra piece of an old stand for the top light. I bent it in my vice and screwed to my existing bracket.

I think it is self explanatory, but ask if you have questions.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

KentS said:


> *Light Box Tweak*
> 
> I updated my light box to make the lights more adjustable. The rods simply slip into the holes on the sides.
> I found an extra piece of an old stand for the top light. I bent it in my vice and screwed to my existing bracket.
> ...


Very clever…

Saves a lot of hassle…


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

KentS said:


> *Light Box Tweak*
> 
> I updated my light box to make the lights more adjustable. The rods simply slip into the holes on the sides.
> I found an extra piece of an old stand for the top light. I bent it in my vice and screwed to my existing bracket.
> ...


Neat idea.


----------



## BritBoxmaker (Feb 1, 2010)

KentS said:


> *Light Box Tweak*
> 
> I updated my light box to make the lights more adjustable. The rods simply slip into the holes on the sides.
> I found an extra piece of an old stand for the top light. I bent it in my vice and screwed to my existing bracket.
> ...


I've come to this late, Kent, what sort of wattage are you looking at for each light?


----------



## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

KentS said:


> *Light Box Tweak*
> 
> I updated my light box to make the lights more adjustable. The rods simply slip into the holes on the sides.
> I found an extra piece of an old stand for the top light. I bent it in my vice and screwed to my existing bracket.
> ...


Still need to do this….. thanks for the update…


----------



## KentS (May 27, 2009)

KentS said:


> *Light Box Tweak*
> 
> I updated my light box to make the lights more adjustable. The rods simply slip into the holes on the sides.
> I found an extra piece of an old stand for the top light. I bent it in my vice and screwed to my existing bracket.
> ...


Martyn, I'll have to check tonight. I don't remember right off hand.
They are pretty low wattage though.


----------



## Grumpy (Nov 9, 2007)

KentS said:


> *Light Box Tweak*
> 
> I updated my light box to make the lights more adjustable. The rods simply slip into the holes on the sides.
> I found an extra piece of an old stand for the top light. I bent it in my vice and screwed to my existing bracket.
> ...


Good one Kent.


----------



## KentS (May 27, 2009)

*Barrel Hinge Installation*

After showing some of my boxes in "Projects". I have received some inquiries about the installation of the barrel hinges I sometimes use. I hope this helps for some of you. I know it will be overkill for many of you, so just use what you wish.

With any type hinge, the layout is critical. These hinges are simple to install, but you *must* get your holes in the right place. If you don't, I can assure you , you will not like the results, and you will not be able to go back and fix it-at least not pratically.

This is how to do a box that has the lid flush with the back on the back side.I find it easier to clamp the base to the lid and mark them at the same time. Make sure the pieces line up perfectly at each end. The lid was cut from the base, so everything is the exact size. If you are doing a different style box, you will have to adjust this step.








After deciding the placement of your hinges, mark top and base with a square. A making knife will give a much cleaner line. This will help with the drill press set-up.
















On a drill press with a fence, set the position of the fence to the desired distance from the back of the box.
My box has a beveled edge so the hole has to fall in front of that. You will have to figure out what works for you. Centered is a good starting place, but may not always work. I use a brad point bit which makes it easier to line the bit up with my knife mark. The bit naturally falls into the knife mark.








Most drill press have a depth stop. After measuring the length I use that measurment to set the stop on the drill press. Bring the bit down to the box and press the point into the surface. Lock the quill down, the set your stop. I set it a little shallow, check the depth with a depth gauge, and sneak up on it. The depth can be a liitle too deep on these hinges if you like, but will create problems if the are not deep enough. Carfully line up the bit to the mark and drill. You will obviously have to reset after doing either the top or the bottom. It really doesn't matter which you do first.
































Insert the hinges. I find they tend to be tight. I notched the end of a dowel to go over the arms of the hinge. Then you can use a small mallet to tap them in. Make the hinge flush with the box side. If you want a bit of clearance between the top and bottom, you can leave the hinge a little proud.

























When you are satisfied with the depth of your hinges, tighten the set screws and you are done.
















If you have any questions-Ask Charlies Neil! (Just kidding-I would be happy to confuse you further)


----------



## Woodenwizard (Jan 25, 2010)

KentS said:


> *Barrel Hinge Installation*
> 
> After showing some of my boxes in "Projects". I have received some inquiries about the installation of the barrel hinges I sometimes use. I hope this helps for some of you. I know it will be overkill for many of you, so just use what you wish.
> 
> ...


Very informative. I picked up a couple tips. Thanks


----------



## rustynails (Jun 23, 2011)

KentS said:


> *Barrel Hinge Installation*
> 
> After showing some of my boxes in "Projects". I have received some inquiries about the installation of the barrel hinges I sometimes use. I hope this helps for some of you. I know it will be overkill for many of you, so just use what you wish.
> 
> ...


Kent, 
First off that's for the blog. It's great that you took the time to document it.

What brand hinge are you using and what size diameter do you use for the different widths of wood? Also are you saying its best to get closer to the back edge of the wood? Is a beveled edge necessary with this type of hinge or can you use them on a square edge as well?

I can tell you follow Charlies Neill with your "sneak up on it" statement. He's a great teacher that's for sure. I have a few of his DVD's. .

Thanks Richard


----------



## KentS (May 27, 2009)

KentS said:


> *Barrel Hinge Installation*
> 
> After showing some of my boxes in "Projects". I have received some inquiries about the installation of the barrel hinges I sometimes use. I hope this helps for some of you. I know it will be overkill for many of you, so just use what you wish.
> 
> ...


Richard, I used 10mm hinges for 5/8" thick sides. The hinges are Soss.
I have used 12mm for 3/4" sides.

The beveled edge is not needed for these hinges. I just like to use it on my boxes.
I wouldn't get too close to the back edge. It could split out easier.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

KentS said:


> *Barrel Hinge Installation*
> 
> After showing some of my boxes in "Projects". I have received some inquiries about the installation of the barrel hinges I sometimes use. I hope this helps for some of you. I know it will be overkill for many of you, so just use what you wish.
> 
> ...


Thanks for this Kent. I put it in my favorites it for future reference. I haven't tried this type of hinge before, but the do look very nice and a lot classier than regular hinges. Your method seems very good. Hinges are always deceptively easy in principal, but a lot more difficult to install properly in practice.


----------



## majeagle1 (Oct 29, 2008)

KentS said:


> *Barrel Hinge Installation*
> 
> After showing some of my boxes in "Projects". I have received some inquiries about the installation of the barrel hinges I sometimes use. I hope this helps for some of you. I know it will be overkill for many of you, so just use what you wish.
> 
> ...


Thanks Kent, great little blog and good info !
Might try these someday….. do you have a good source? $$$$


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

KentS said:


> *Barrel Hinge Installation*
> 
> After showing some of my boxes in "Projects". I have received some inquiries about the installation of the barrel hinges I sometimes use. I hope this helps for some of you. I know it will be overkill for many of you, so just use what you wish.
> 
> ...


That is a HUGE help, Kent!

Thank you very much!

Such clean Simple way of doing it!

COOL!


----------



## rtriplett (Nov 25, 2009)

KentS said:


> *Barrel Hinge Installation*
> 
> After showing some of my boxes in "Projects". I have received some inquiries about the installation of the barrel hinges I sometimes use. I hope this helps for some of you. I know it will be overkill for many of you, so just use what you wish.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the info. When I finally attempt to step up the quality of my boxes this would be a good improvement over the cheap brass hinges.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

KentS said:


> *Barrel Hinge Installation*
> 
> After showing some of my boxes in "Projects". I have received some inquiries about the installation of the barrel hinges I sometimes use. I hope this helps for some of you. I know it will be overkill for many of you, so just use what you wish.
> 
> ...


Nice looking box!


----------



## KentS (May 27, 2009)

KentS said:


> *Barrel Hinge Installation*
> 
> After showing some of my boxes in "Projects". I have received some inquiries about the installation of the barrel hinges I sometimes use. I hope this helps for some of you. I know it will be overkill for many of you, so just use what you wish.
> 
> ...


Richard, I just thought about my answer on the beveled edge. You may actually need it. I don't know for sure if the hinge swings up enough to clear without it. It might, but you would have to play with it.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

KentS said:


> *Barrel Hinge Installation*
> 
> After showing some of my boxes in "Projects". I have received some inquiries about the installation of the barrel hinges I sometimes use. I hope this helps for some of you. I know it will be overkill for many of you, so just use what you wish.
> 
> ...


Good point…

Play with it as a Stop from going Back & Over too far… only enough to hold it at a comfortable Open position.

Yes / No?


----------



## SteveMI (May 19, 2009)

KentS said:


> *Barrel Hinge Installation*
> 
> After showing some of my boxes in "Projects". I have received some inquiries about the installation of the barrel hinges I sometimes use. I hope this helps for some of you. I know it will be overkill for many of you, so just use what you wish.
> 
> ...


These hinges are simple to install, but you must get your holes in the right place. If you don't, I can assure you , you will not like the results

That is so true. I didn't use a brad point bit and the grain caused the bit to walk just a bit. End result = lid that wasn't parallel to the box and really looked bad. Luckily it was a box that I was testing techniques with.

SOSS has the drawings available in PDF format at: http://www.soss.com/product/cad/
BH104 is 10mm barrel and BH124 is 12mm barrel hinge.

Kent - SOSS drawings have a 2.5mm and 3.5mm gap shown between the lid and box when open, which I assume would also be when drilling the barrel holes. Did you use the gaps like the drawings?

Steve.


----------



## KentS (May 27, 2009)

KentS said:


> *Barrel Hinge Installation*
> 
> After showing some of my boxes in "Projects". I have received some inquiries about the installation of the barrel hinges I sometimes use. I hope this helps for some of you. I know it will be overkill for many of you, so just use what you wish.
> 
> ...


Joe-Yes (I think)

Steve, If you knew me you would know I did not look at the directions, but in answer to your question, I have actually done it both ways. They probably do need a bit of clearance.

The brad point bit *does* make a lot of difference.


----------



## RKW (Dec 17, 2008)

KentS said:


> *Barrel Hinge Installation*
> 
> After showing some of my boxes in "Projects". I have received some inquiries about the installation of the barrel hinges I sometimes use. I hope this helps for some of you. I know it will be overkill for many of you, so just use what you wish.
> 
> ...


thanks kent, will give it a try.


----------



## Philby (May 28, 2013)

KentS said:


> *Barrel Hinge Installation*
> 
> After showing some of my boxes in "Projects". I have received some inquiries about the installation of the barrel hinges I sometimes use. I hope this helps for some of you. I know it will be overkill for many of you, so just use what you wish.
> 
> ...


Hi Kent,

Do you have any hints or tricks to remove this type of hinge?


----------



## KentS (May 27, 2009)

KentS said:


> *Barrel Hinge Installation*
> 
> After showing some of my boxes in "Projects". I have received some inquiries about the installation of the barrel hinges I sometimes use. I hope this helps for some of you. I know it will be overkill for many of you, so just use what you wish.
> 
> ...


Unfortunately I have not found an easy way to do that.

The one time I needed to, I destroyed the hinge getting it out.


----------



## Philby (May 28, 2013)

KentS said:


> *Barrel Hinge Installation*
> 
> After showing some of my boxes in "Projects". I have received some inquiries about the installation of the barrel hinges I sometimes use. I hope this helps for some of you. I know it will be overkill for many of you, so just use what you wish.
> 
> ...


The hinges i have to remove are already destroyed. i wanted to remove them and replace them with new ones rather then going through the effort of re-drilling new holes. I have unscrewed the screws but it it is still stuck hard as the tab that the screw tightens to keep it in place is obviously still bent and securing it in place.

Am I better off trying to rip these old ones out or should I leave them in and just drill new holes?


----------



## KentS (May 27, 2009)

KentS said:


> *Barrel Hinge Installation*
> 
> After showing some of my boxes in "Projects". I have received some inquiries about the installation of the barrel hinges I sometimes use. I hope this helps for some of you. I know it will be overkill for many of you, so just use what you wish.
> 
> ...


I think I had to use a small screwdriver and break them up to get them out.
You have to be gentle, yet forceful-if that makes any since. Those hinges are fairly delicate, so they should
break rather easily. that should loosen them enough to use small needle nose pliers to pull out the pieces.


----------



## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

KentS said:


> *Barrel Hinge Installation*
> 
> After showing some of my boxes in "Projects". I have received some inquiries about the installation of the barrel hinges I sometimes use. I hope this helps for some of you. I know it will be overkill for many of you, so just use what you wish.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the blog post, Kent. It was very interesting.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


----------



## Donovanjns (Jul 3, 2013)

KentS said:


> *Barrel Hinge Installation*
> 
> After showing some of my boxes in "Projects". I have received some inquiries about the installation of the barrel hinges I sometimes use. I hope this helps for some of you. I know it will be overkill for many of you, so just use what you wish.
> 
> ...


Great how-to, love the dowel for installing. I am currently building a box, and am at the stage of picking out hinges, I looked at these and wondered how easy\hard they would be to install. This has been very helpful. - Thank you


----------



## Donna77 (Oct 27, 2013)

KentS said:


> *Barrel Hinge Installation*
> 
> After showing some of my boxes in "Projects". I have received some inquiries about the installation of the barrel hinges I sometimes use. I hope this helps for some of you. I know it will be overkill for many of you, so just use what you wish.
> 
> ...


Wow love your instructions, they are great. Can you tell me how to work out size vs timber thickness?


----------



## DaytonHM (Dec 27, 2011)

KentS said:


> *Barrel Hinge Installation*
> 
> After showing some of my boxes in "Projects". I have received some inquiries about the installation of the barrel hinges I sometimes use. I hope this helps for some of you. I know it will be overkill for many of you, so just use what you wish.
> 
> ...


Kent, thank you very much for the great lay-out and in depth tips on the barrel hinges. I've been timid about trying this. I have a set of these hinges and I will give your method a shot on my next box!

Thank you,
Aaron


----------



## wwoddoc (Nov 15, 2017)

KentS said:


> *Barrel Hinge Installation*
> 
> After showing some of my boxes in "Projects". I have received some inquiries about the installation of the barrel hinges I sometimes use. I hope this helps for some of you. I know it will be overkill for many of you, so just use what you wish.
> 
> ...


Dear Kent, 
Thanks for the instruction and the explanation of the size required for different thickness of doors. I am a beginner in woodworking despite my advancing years in age but I have found the description of the steps and procedure to be simple and easy to follow. So thanks again and please do not worry about the experienced worker out there they should look upon this as a revision for what they know.


----------

