# Protecting the cast iron top on my new table saw



## MR_Cole (Jun 1, 2012)

So i just got a new Sawstop table saw and I really want to take care of the surface right from the start. I was thinking of something simple like a spray that would protect the cast iron. I've read about 2 part mixes and waxes but I will probably never get around to that. Also it would be convenient if I could get it at a big box store.

Any input on caring for my new saw is greatly appreciated!


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## stonedlion (Jan 12, 2011)

I use Johnson's paste wax, it slicks up the surface nice and seals it from moisture.

Stay away from waxes that contain silicone, it will transfer to your wood and screw up your finishes.


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## Tomj (Nov 18, 2011)

Home Depot sells Johnsons paste wax. Sometimes it's hard to find because it's on the cleaners isle with the floor cleaners, sponges,disinfectant, CLR, garbage pales and sometimes brooms. I couldn't find it the first time I looked and the employee didn't know either. I just waxed my table saw last night. I spread a thin coat of wax over the table , let it dry a couple of hours then buffed it off with a buffer bit in a drill. One little 16oz tub of Johnsons paste wax will most likely last for years. Good luck.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

Wax alone helps slow moisture penetration but doesn't directly prevent rust. My best results have come from applying a light coat Boeshield T-9, wipe and dry, followed by a coat of good paste wax (Johnson's or Minmax or equivalent). Clean the top with mineral spirits before applying. It's a pretty simple process that only takes a few minutes of effort.


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## AJLastra (Apr 19, 2012)

Topsaver to remove rust, Topcoat spray for keeping the rust off.


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## SnowyRiver (Nov 14, 2008)

I wax the top of the cast iron/steel tables of my equipment with a good paste wax that is silicon free. I do this twice a year and it keeps the surface nice and clean and keeps it slick so the wood slides freely on the table. This works exceptionally well on the planer table. If I do get any rust on the tables (had this happen the other day because I left a piece of treated lumber on the TS and it must have contained some moisture) I use a dry coat and scotch guard pads to remove the surface rust.


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## A10GAC (Dec 21, 2009)

+1 on the Johnson's wax…it's inexpensive, a can lasts a long time, and it makes the top pretty slick without interfering with the ability to finish the wood. I wax my tables 2-3x per year and keep them covered with a piece of 12oz duck cloth when not in use. The cloth doesn't let the humidity from the garage settle directly on the steel and breaths well enough that moisture doesn't accumulate underneath.


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## EricTy (Mar 28, 2012)

I use Mother's Carnauba wax. It doesn't contain any silicone.


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## toolie (Mar 16, 2011)

paste wax and keep the surface covered,m with almost anythng, when not in use for extended periods. i've used plywood, htc tool covers (gotten for free, otherwise, expensive and not worth it), blankets, sheets, conforters, bed spreads, etc.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

+1 on johnsons pate wax - cheap, available locally, and does a good job. I've tried Boeshield T-9, and am getting better results with paste wax!

I also keep machinery covered with moving blankets when not in use to keep moisture levels minimal


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## MonteCristo (May 29, 2012)

As others are saying, stay away from compounds that contain silicone as it can mess with some finishes.

Like Knotscott I use Boeshield or TopCote with the added benefit that they make the surface nice and slick.


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## NiteWalker (May 7, 2011)

+1 more for johnson's paste wax.
I also use it to lube the gears in the saw.


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## ajosephg (Aug 25, 2008)

What everybody said plus never ever sit a cool beverage on it or use it as a workbench.

Congrats on your purchase. If I were 10 or 15 years younger I'd also be buying one of those.


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## Sanity (Jan 13, 2011)

I think it depends on your location. I live in Ohio and it is a constant battle to keep the cast iron surfaces of my power tools free from rust. I have tried paste wax and it does not work for me, and a fine layer of corrosion is evident after only a week or so. I typically use T-9 and it is effective provided I use a thick coat. There was a very interesting article in the recent August edition of FWW which goes into detail on rust protection, and they recommend using CRC 3-36. I bought some this week to try.


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

I have a sign on my TS top stating that anyone placing ANYTHING on the top will be sumarrily executed with malice, and their body disposed in a landfill.
Paste wax too.
Bill


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## MR_Cole (Jun 1, 2012)

Seems as though alot of you have gotten good results with paste wax and its readily available at home depot so i'm going to give it a try.

Thanks for all the input!


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Cheers,
Brad


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

What's with the basket?


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

*What's with the basket?*

An optional accessory 

The solution is approx. 2 to 3 ounces of paraffin dissolved in about 8 ounces of mineral spirits. Applied with a rag, it goes on as a liquid so it can get into areas that a normal paste wax can't. Once the mineral spirits evaporates off, you are left with a nice thin layer of paraffin. The basket is so you can dunk smaller parts like nuts, bolts, spring pins, etc.. helps protect them from rusting and makes assembly easier due to the wax coating which acts as a lubricant. Works great for coating metal to metal sliding parts as well instead of using oil or grease which can attract dust and dirt particles.

You can get a pound (16oz) of paraffin wax at your local grocery store, sold as a canning wax (Gulf Wax), for about $2.

Cheers,
Brad


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## khays (Aug 16, 2009)

Sanity,

Try using some heavy blankets or thick towels to cover the cast iron. I live in Kentucky and those help a lot.


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## studie (Oct 14, 2009)

I used Napalmolive once but when I turned on the saw the flash was so hot , it melted the rip fence. For real, I use paste wax and like it. Have tried bt9 too also Top coat but here in Washington state have had good luck with wax. I use my 1968 powermatic 66 for a flat top bench all the time so it gets lots of use. With the outfeed table it makes for a super flat work area for critical work. I love my old saw and do take care of it.


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## cutworm (Oct 2, 2010)

Read an article on Fine Woodworking recently. They tested 10 or so products. Paste wax didn't fair well. Tops were CRC, WD-40 and LPS 3. That said I use paste wax mostly and WD-40 on occasions. Spray a towel with it and wipe it down.
At work I use pure lanolin on a couple of supermicrometers. It's a pain but they are small. That stuff is really thick.
http://www.finewoodworking.com/FWNPDF/011227030.pdf


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## dannmarks (Oct 22, 2016)

The basic ingredient is FISH OIL. - That is WD 40

WD-40 who knew? 'Water Displacement #40' The product began from a search for a rust preventative solvent and degreaser to protect missile parts. WD-40 was created in 1953 by three technicians at the San Diego Rocket Chemical Company. Its name comes from the project that was to find a 'water displacement' compound… They were successful with the fortieth formulation, thus WD-40. The Convair Company bought it in bulk to protect their atlas missile parts.

Anyways this is what I use frequently. Nothing wrong with paste wax guys. My shop is practically the great out doors at times. My 2 1/2 car garage with the doors open often is my wood shop. Not to mention that I roll my equipment right out outside sometimes to do the work. So every now and then I just spray on a little and wipe down the surfaces with a paper towel. No rust to date. Grizzly mentioned it to me when I ordered equipment from them in 1980 as a solvent for getting cosmoline off the ground surfaces.


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## BB1 (Jan 29, 2016)

Very interested in this topic as I am looking for how to care for my saw. Has anyone used this cover: Zerust Table Saw Cover?


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## OSU55 (Dec 14, 2012)

Alox. Originally for WWII naval ships.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

No finishing problems while using Wd40? Just curious.


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## apehl (Jul 18, 2016)

I live in Iowa and dont have a climate controlled garage that gets extremely humid in the summer and usually a wet car is parked in it for the winter. I dont know where you live, but if your like me you probably need something more than just paste wax.

Recently saw this video from izzy swan about how he finishes his new saws. He puts a sparurethane diluted to 30% with mineral spirits and lets that dry then he puts a few coats of johnsons paste wax. Has anyone on this forum heard of this or tried it? Or does anyone have suggestions for high moisture environments.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

Mathias wandel of woodgears.ca uses varathane floor finish I believe?


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

I've also seen John Heisz use poly on cast iron. I think he even did some rust tests.


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

I use Johnson's paste wax and have for over 40 years. 
Before i moved to the left coast, I lived Illinois the humidity is higher than here and my shop was in the basement but the past wax worked, no rust on my TS or other treated tools.

Stay away from silicone like coatings!


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## apehl (Jul 18, 2016)

The other night i noticed a tiny bit of rust starting to develop on the top of my new TS. I hadn't even cleaned off the factory seal. I cleaned off the top with some mineral spirits and then sprayed some Birchwood Casey Barricade Rust Protection (for firmearms)

My initial intention was to put johnsons paste wax on. I read on here that someone had a similar set up and put both. Would it be okay for me to put the barricade on and let it dry a few days then put the johnsons on and keep that process up? Do you think that would provide additional rust prevention in our humid Iowa weather?


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## Kirk650 (May 8, 2016)

I've used Johnson's paste wax for many years. Works just fine. The only rust problem I've had to deal with was my old friend Pete. My workshop has a small fridge, where I keep water, Diet Coke, and light beer. Pete, bless his heart would only drink Bud, so I had to keep some Bud on hand for him. He'd come over about 2:30, grab a Bud, pull a chair over next to my jointer, and set the sweating beer can on the outfeed table, and tell me his latest world views. When he'd leave I'd wipe up the water and rewax the jointer, but it would still rust a bit. And I'd gripe.

Old friend Pete has passed on, and I'd not fuss about his beer on the jointer if I could get him back in the shop for one more argument about politics.


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## ryleigh (Jul 19, 2017)

Hi All - first time around here.

I've tired several options on keeping my table and band saw tops clean, rust-free, and slick. Down here near Houston Texas it's a thankless task due to the constantly high humidity, and having them sit in my un-everything, garage.

After cleaning my surfaces with spray brake cleaner (best cleaner I had on hand at the time), 220 grit sandpaper (light cleaning), and 000 steel wool I spayed the tops, and miter slots, with original Armor-all, buffed thoroughly, sprayed and buffed again.

That was a few months ago and I just touch it up occasionally and my tops stay wonderfully slick and clean. At the least, it's working AS Well as anything else I've tried - yet, better I think. A friend of my just recently did the same thing on his table saw and really likes it thus far.

We'll see. . .

jwesley

So far - so good. Only been using Armor-all for about 3 months now so will see in another 3 months if I still like it.


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## mazak (Jul 5, 2018)

could you use vegetable oil ?


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

*ryleigh*, doesn't the Armor-all affect the wood cut on the saw?

I know Armor-all was meant for cars but I stopped using it as it increases the amount of outgassing from the plastics and builds up on the inside of all windows, particularly the front and rear windows!


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## cathode (May 18, 2014)

I coated my drill press table with polyurethane and it's holding up pretty well but I don't think it would last on a table saw.


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## CaptainKlutz (Apr 23, 2014)

Hmm,
Did you search forum for possible answers first?
There are many threads on this topic on LJ already.

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/264953

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/61379

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/51551

etc,

PS - Armor-All is silicone containing compound. It is banned substance in most reputable paint shops. Big problem is how easily it's transferred and migrates everywhere. So if you use on your car door panel, then touch wood project about to get finish; there can be issues.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

*FYI, old thread. *



> could you use vegetable oil ?
> - mazak


Try it, let us know how it goes.



> I coated my drill press table with polyurethane and it s holding up pretty well but I don t think it would last on a table saw.
> 
> - William Shelley


No matter what you use it will have to be reapplied but I poly'd my saw, bandsaw, and drill press table and it has lasted far longer than wax.


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## MinnesotaSteve (Dec 17, 2015)

I found the recommendation of spray shellac in some other threads here, and it made sense to me. It's easy to resurface if needed… just spray some more on and it binds with the existing stuff. Or buff out, as you just put some alcohol on a rag. And I usually still use the paste wax to slick up the surface, and shellac is compatible with wax.

Anyway, I did this to my Sawstop last year after buying it, and haven't had any rust.


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