# Lathe of your Dreams



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

OK, enough interest seems to be present for another Forum topic…How about Lathes?

Which one do you own? like it? hate it? why?

Which lathe is in YOUR dreams?  If $$$ were no object!

Here's mine…just purchased a Jet 1220VS on halloween…been in front of it every waking moment since then! I'm hooked.









I also have a set of Nova jaw chucks, but haven't tried them yet…

my 2nd turning…from Curly Maple…









and the next day…from Bubinga…









This forum is for questions and answers…how to choose a lathe…how to use one…what sort of stuff do you like to turn? What cool accessories do you own? Please share all information you can so we can all learn faster…


----------



## REO (Sep 20, 2012)

|I have never had a typical wood lathe. My dad ran his own turning business for 60 years. |We had production lathes. One was a cam operated lathe for small items like golf tees and wooden beads. One was a matison multi spindle progressive that was only set up once for spindles because the knives were cost prohibitive. The most consistently used in the beginning were two converted Atlas metal lathes. these made parts from 1/2"x1/2" to 5"x34". The "big" lathe was a converted American metal lathe with an Atlas head for speed that could do 24" diameter and 8' between centers up to 16 feet with a tagged tail stock. Two of the post blanks turned on this machine weighed over a ton. I still have one of the Atlas lathes. I got into metal working to keep his shop in jigs and fixtures for production runs and updating his equipment. I am looking to build a lathe from scratch somewhat like the Laguna but with some potential add ons. I hope to incorporate longitudinal Rose engine work by oscillating the crossfeed instead of rocking the spindle and tail stock. Pinning the headstock to the longitudinal feed is also in the plan like the legacy machine for spiral work. My profile picture is of my dad in front of the "big" Lathe.


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

REO, that's awesome! 16 feet between centers…sounds like a ton of chips!

I'd love to see photos of your built lathe as you get started..lots of good blogs in that project!


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

I probably have a lot of silly questions, like….are most lathes powered by 110? And how many speeds are needed? assuming one is turning chunks of firewood type material from time to time, is there an ideal moisture level? I wont let all the questions out at once, but I do have tons.


----------



## OnlyJustME (Nov 22, 2011)

REO i bet those chisels/gouges for that big lathe must have been the size of slicks. probably a 4" roughing gouge. lol

I currently have 3 lathes. 2 vintage belt drive bench top lathe's and a powermatic 90 that i have to get working and all the parts still. Cant wait to get the PM90 up and running so i can do some nice bowls and bigger things.

No most lathes aren't powered by 110. there are also 220 and 3 phase. All depends on size and intended use. 
My old belt drive lathes only have 4 speeds via a 4 step pulley. the new electronic variable speed lathes have a lot more. 
I'd say you need at least 3 speeds.

You can turn green wood or dry wood. doesn't matter too much as far as i know. If its green when you turn it the shape will change significantly as it dries. You would leave it bigger or oversized let it dry then turn it to final shape. risks with doing that are it may crack and be ruined while drying. Dry wood is harder on the tools to turn and can splinter apart while turning. I've been turning mostly firewood and sometimes it will start out seeming like it's dry and when i get a few inches in it's wet.
I'm still learning about it so i may be corrected about this and has just been my short experience.

I'm looking into fabbing my own carbide cutter tools like the EWTs. Seems it would be easy enough to do and would be 1/4-1/3 the cost.


----------



## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Radius-Carbide-Insert-Cutter-for-Woodworking-Chisels-like-Easy-Wood-Tool-Ci









I'd like to make my own carbide cutters as well and have been looking at
Ebay for the cutters like the one above.


----------



## OnlyJustME (Nov 22, 2011)

some good info here


----------



## cajunpen (Apr 9, 2007)

I have a Nova 3000 Lathe, with Nova Super Chuck. I also have the variable speed attachment for the motor, so I can run between 0 & about 3300 RPM with just the twist of a dial. I also have a Sherline Mini Lathe dedicated to making pens. I have lathes for the past 10-12 years and am just now getting into turning seriously.

Waho60o9 if you are looking for carbide cutters or tools check out Captain Eddie's site - http://eddiecastelin.com/fallblowoutsale


----------



## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Thanks for the link to Captain Eddie's Bill.
The products look of good quality and the
prices are reasonable.


----------



## Wildwood (Jul 22, 2012)

Have a jet 1642, love the EVS at time bought only lathe with EVS in my price range and still 110V. I do not see me buying new lathe unless this one dies. Current prices for this lathe too high whether 110V or 220V model.

My dream lathe would require bigger shop and access to 220V power supply. Wish list is endless, Oneway, Vicmarc just a couple lathes worth mentioning. If going by what could afford this might be it.

http://rikontools.com/productpage_70-450.htm
http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2082335/32793/rikon-20x37-woodfast-lathe-model-70425.aspx


----------



## MedicKen (Dec 2, 2008)

For those that haven't seen the catalog image of the 62', 32" swing 1919 No. 18 Oliver patternmaker's lathe that was made specially for the US Government, here it is. 44 factory hands lined up behind it shoulder to shoulder:


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Whoa, this looking and sounding expensive. Do any of you guys that turn stuff, sell any of the items? I usually do some commission work, as time permits to off set tool and lumber costs. So I guess it would be nice to be able to sell stuff, when/if my skillz would allow it. If one is not using firewood or self harvested stuff, seems like the blanks and big chunks would be pretty spendy.

Bottom line, can a guy be up and running for a grand on 110 power w/accessories and tools that will allow for some growth and maybe still meet some long term unforseen needs? I would like to do handles, mallets, bowls and skill permitting segmented turnings.


----------



## OnlyJustME (Nov 22, 2011)

Captain Eddie's got some good videos on you tube too. His link is one of the many in the thread i linked to. From the prices and stock i've been looking into i'll probably just go through Captain Eddie to get my stuff any way.

ShaneA - Depends on how quickly you wanna be up and running. Buying all new, if you start with a midi lathe you can but you would be limited in the size of your bowl. Maybe a get an 8" bowl.


----------



## Bluepine38 (Dec 14, 2009)

Look at Stephen Mines lathe under Reciprocated Columns, or if you really want a new lathe to drool over
look at Ray Lawler of Raytown, Mo's new version of the Holtzapffel lathe, I have wanting one of these since
reading about them in a Popular Science magazine. They were only $8,000 each in 1974. For now my
dream lathe is the one I have a 1950's era Rockwell/Delta 39-6242 with the compound slide rest and sanding
table accessories. I still have to hook up the 3 phase Varidrive that came with the lathe, but one of these days.


----------



## REO (Sep 20, 2012)

I am able to use skews, gouges and scrapers, and I have. the size of the lathe has nothing to d with the size of the cutting tool. The turning on the converted lathes was done with a tool bit sharpened for wood cutting and the cross feed screw was replaced with a lever. on the back side of the cross feed there is a follower finger that traces the template. In this way we could exactly duplicate an existing turning or make thousands that were identical from one run to the next. The "big" lathe was not 16 feet between centers. We would bolt a headstock down to the floor outboard of the lathe bed, turn one half and then flip the turning end for end to do the balance. We would clamp a skill saw in the cross feed and turn the column pretty slow,45-60 rpm.








http://i3.ytimg.com/vi/Z1sf00vxB3M/mqdefault.jpg
These are not very good but they give you an idea of what I am used to for equipment. My dad modified the two Atlas lathes in the early 1940's with rolling grip clutches so they don't have to be turned off to stop the material. Many times we wouldn't shut the lathe down accept for lunch and going home and as you can see in the one video o some runs we could load and unload with the spindle running engaged. In the one video the tool holder is turned around backwards. On the back end of the tool there is a carbide insert. I use this when the customer supplies natural edge blanks or there is no fine detail in the finished part. The cutting edge lasts much longer. For the epee handles and guards I get 60-80 pieces on plain tool steel cutters before sharpening.


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Bill, Thanks for the link to Eddie's site…prices look good to me! I'm still waiting to see how long my FIRST set of carbide cutters will last…but something says stock up now…

Ken, that Oliver is insane! 










^My dream lathe for bowls…Vicmarc with 3hp…claims to hold 500 pound blanks…heavy on the pocketbook, however, around $8000…

Shane, you can definately get going for a grand! How good are ya at sharpening chisels? I see sets of vintage turning chisels on fleaBay all the time dirt cheap…I mean, $20+ shipping for a handful of old rusties…they just need some TLC! And, if you are willing to get by without fancy features…like indexing of the head stock, or VS…you should see lathes at Woodcraft or Rockler for less than $500. Just add fancy jaws or chucks later as you can afford.
.


----------



## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

Shane, let me know when you're ready to buy. I've been doing much research on lathes and I can pretty much tell you all about what's out there now. CL sucks around here, doesn't it?
I just ordered the Delta 46-460 today. I got it for 659$, free shipping. If you want that one, you won't find it under 679$ so google the model and choose an older Amazon ad. They don't always clean up the older prices and you can save bucks that way.


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

I would probably lack the confidence to buy used power equipment, unless it was some sort of an amazing deal, that I probably wouldn't even be able to tell. So I will probably look new.

Since I have the WS 3000 and a combo waterstone, I "should" be set up to sharpen. I am probably going to have to get a video or some books, to study up. Space will be the biggest obstacle, other than not knowing what the hell I am doing, of course. Looking forward to see some turnings Russ.


----------



## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

Shane, I still have some shopping to do or I'll be turning with a sharp flathead screw driver. I watched a guy do a 18 inch walnut bowl on video and he just used some cheap tools and kept going to the grind stone to give them a sharpen once in a while.


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Hell's Yeah!!! I'm just getting back to the lathe, trying to get my skills back; translated, "catch city". I started my lathe with the chuck key in today. Not good. I'm making a kaleidoscope for a lady at work that's a freak about them; must have 100 in her office. Here's a cool pen I made after I killed the .50 set.
.
If anyone is going to make a .50 pen from Penn State, you have to LEAVE the tube behind the turning. I trimmed it all the way down, thinking I was clever. Now I have a .50 casing with a cool bushing in it.
.
Here's my setup for drilling the shaft (lol):
.








.
I used a piece of tinted, stabilized elm burl. I love this stuff b/c you never know what you're going to get until the wheels stop turning. Took it to 3000 grit. I finished this one with 1/2lb shellac and some black Briwax. I figured the black would fill in any defects, but there weren't a whole lot of them.
.








.








.








.
It's a really cool kit…a no-brainer. This one's for a gun nut pal at work. I use the lathe for 1) mallets and chisel handles, and 2) gifts. It's fun to knock out a quick gift in an hour or so. Thanks for looking! al


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Looks good Al, that little pen has a lot going on in terms of detail. Do most of these pen kits come with a pen that writes fairly well?


----------



## thedude50 (Aug 13, 2011)

I am happy you started this topic I am sure we will see lots of cool things. I will search for some pictures for the lathe of my dreams. I can tell you up front it is gold in color More to come.


----------



## derosa (Aug 21, 2010)

Although I really like turning, and I'm not all that bad at it I have to say my lathe is the one of only 2 tools I'm actually fully content with the other being my drill press. 
I've got a 20 year older version of the delta lathe Gus wants. It has a 36×11" bed which will do me fine for a long while, I have the sanding station with 9" disk and angle adjustable table, 2 grinding disc/polishing wheel attachments, a drill chuck, 2 regular mounting plates and a 3rd with reverse thread for work off the bench. The bench is factory so the old iron bed is really heavy and the original 2×6s feel more like oak then pine, it's also designed to be bolted to the floor if need be. Only things that I'd really like with it is a 3 or 4 jaw chuck and a bigger motor, the chuck is planned on for next year a bigger motor only if something shows up cheap on craigslist. 
The factory upgrade to 16 speeds from the stock 4 and the original steady rest that goes on the floor would be nice things to add as well, although it looks mostly like a music stand with a rest stuck in the top.

Al, I have to ask what that table or bench is that you are working with or is that your shop floor?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Not necessarily dreamy, but my lathe. Price was dreamy: free from a friend.










Someday I'll learn how to use it. Maybe tuning into this thread will help. Thanks, Terry!


----------



## OnlyJustME (Nov 22, 2011)

Really nice pen Al. I think i'm gonna have to get some of them. Don't remember seeing those back when i used to do pens 15 years ago.


----------



## usnret (Jul 14, 2011)

My dream lathe is a Oneway 2436 with 3HP motor. It is moderately priced at $6481 according to their site.
I fugure I should have the money saved up by the time I retire in 26 years.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

I've got one similar to Smitty's. I've tuned into this thread to determine what my next one may be. Although the old craftsmans does everything I need for now. Mine was $100, including some so-so cutters.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Don, that's dreamy! It'd match my other Craftsman stationary tools! If you ever replace it, it's got a home here.


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Love those vintage lathes! I'd love to have one in the shop…but I sure as heck don't have the mechanical skills to keep it running. Guess I could just park it somewhere for cool looks like Smitty is doing! 

You guys, how difficult is it to turn these fancy pens? I mean, do you have to own the pen press, tube insertion tool, and other specialty jigs? For anyone that has turned many pens…how many do ya screw up? Just the first few, and never again?


----------



## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

Ive got a Cman metal lathe just like the one Don posted. Its been collecting dust for 3 years now. I dont even know how to turn the thing on nevermind make it work. If youre even on the east coast of New england Smit … shes all yours


----------



## mikema (Apr 27, 2011)

I have the Delta 46-460 currently, which I am still growing into that machine. My dream lathe would probably be a Oneway.


----------



## carguy460 (Jan 3, 2012)

Well I've been away for awhile…I come back and there is another sweet thread started that I just HAVE to follow! Thanks for this one Terry!

I don't know jack about lathes, other than I want one. My dad bought one a few years back and if I recall he loved turning, but for some reason didn't like the lathe that he got. Something about it being too small and that he had problems with vibration? I'll have to ask him about it again, maybe it would save someone here from a bad purchase…or maybe someone here can explain what he's doing wrong!

Until such day that I get a lathe, I'll just keep on dreaming about this guy:










Damn that Roy Underhill for "turning" me on to the Barnes lathe…


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Jason, that's sweet!!!


----------



## carguy460 (Jan 3, 2012)

I've come across a few treadle lathes around my neck of the woods, but didn't know enough about them to buy. One I've got my eye on is a combo scroll saw/lathe. $300, as is…I want it, but like I said, don't know jack about it!


----------



## derosa (Aug 21, 2010)

Terry, as someone who has just gotten into it I didn't find the pens too hard to jump into. 
Initial cost was more then I liked even cheaping out, I found that spare tubes, a couple of pen kits, a properly sized drill bit, a facing tool which needs it's own bit, a mandrel, proper bushings and the woodcraft finishing kit were all necessary. The finishing kit has 2 different glues that are needed to glue the tubes as well as finish and was cheaper then the parts. I think total I coughed up about 75.00 just to make the first two pens and that was just to make one style, additional pen styles may need a different drill bit size and different bushings so an extra 10-15 per style.

I do use hand screw clamps to secure the blanks vs a buying a special vise and it gets everything so close to center the grain structure still follows. I have a tiny bench vise that does a good job of the assembly so no special press needed, mine does have plastic jaws. I have bucket loads of turning blanks previously known as cutoffs so I'm still good there and the regular lathe chisels have worked fine vs buying shorter, smaller specific tools. I also didn't screw up and need a spare tube till my 3rd pen but my first pen was fatter then a slimline should be both top and bottom and the second was ebony which I find can be turned rather easily without catching or tearing.

Jason, I don't think I'd ever want that lathe to actually work at though the belly could use the help. Nicely restored like that would be really nice to have sitting in the shop as eye candy.


----------



## carguy460 (Jan 3, 2012)

derosa - yeah, that thing would take some serious effort, though its cooler than cool! I think that I may go electron powered for my lathe, only because I'm lazy…I ripped 8ft of 2×8 the other day by hand and I think I lost 10 lbs…


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

I never had a desire to turn pens until I saw Al's recent rendition. I would like to do some bowls some day though.


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

OK, I have so many questions, and dont even think I have all the terms right…

What is the main difference from the Grizzly lathe that costs like $600 vs the Jet lathe at $1,400. Sorry I dont have the model #s, since I am at work, at need to be doing other stuff. It looks like the headstock rotates on the Grizzly and has more hp, digital readout…both come on cast iron stands. Lot of price difference between the two. I am not a "grizzly guy" per se, but I know they offer the bang for the buck…I really dont know crap about lathes, so I am just trying to take it all in. Also, is the rotating head stock a must or good feature? thanks for all the help.

Also, I think I saw a forum the other day that asked about book recommendations…anyone have some good books or videos that are a must?


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Shane, I would highly recommend Taunton's Complete Illustrated Guide to Turning by Richard Raffan. It explains some of the terms you may struggle with now…plus after you get your lathe…he shows step by step how to turn different shapes.

I bought a couple of books and read online for a year before I finally bought a lathe! The hardest part is predicting which features you'll want down the road so you don't have buy a newer model! 

I have a few big Grizzlys…bandsaw…jointer…disc sander…and love them, but I read a mediocre review of their model lathe with digital readout here on LJ…G0462.

And I had decided I wanted indexing abilities built in to the head stock…I don't have the tools or skills to use that function now, but I will next year! That model Grizzly doesn't offer indexing…so I looked elsewhere.

To ME, the variable speed was high on my want list…that's how I ended up with my model. I love being able to switch from chisel to pencil and back to chisel just by turning the little speed control knob. To others that may seem meaningless…

Hopefully others will chime in with more advice…but I think choosing a first lathe is difficult! Take your time, bro.


----------



## thedude50 (Aug 13, 2011)

OK Guys, I want you to meet the lathe of my dreams. There simply is no finer lathe made today this one is massive. Unless your making your own lather this one is the real deal IMHO. The Powermatic 4224b


----------



## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

I have an older Craftsman lathe, spent $90 when it was new! Fan on the motor (plastic) is trash. I'm running with the cover off the motor housing to keep things cool. Bed is a "T" shape, two pieces get me to 37" long. Just a drive spur, and a "Dead " center. Lots of table legs over the years. Lately, though, a different sort of thing is going on….









I use mainly the four chisel set that came with the lathe. I also have a few others from other sources. In the process of moving the shop to a smaller location. Make a stand for this lathe, hang a "Shop-lite" over it, and back in "business".

New Lathe??? Maybe a H-F one…..


----------



## SASmith (Mar 22, 2010)

This is the lathe that I am currently using. A ShopSmith 10ER
Not my dream lathe but it works for me.

For those wanting to turn a bowl you can make a bowl from a board if you don't have a bowl blank. That link shows a simple bowl from a board but more complex ones can be made using similar techniques.

I mostly use carbide cutters mounted to 1/2" square stock when turning.


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Thanks Terry, I will look into that book. I need to study up, and gain some more knowledge. I am intrigued by lathes/turning, so there is lots to learn.

I could see how the pen thing would be fascinating, looks like lots of doo dads and accessories in general are involved. Kind of another money pit : )


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

I know at first when you look at projects like pens for an example. One can easily see how it could nickle and dime you to death. It can if you let it or if your the type who wants all the neat gagets.

All you need is the pen Mandrel, a good 7mm drill bit, the bushings for which ever pen you wish to make. The pen vise, and all the other goodies you can do without. To drill the blanks I just use a old twin screw hand clamp and my woodworking vise to assemble them…... Of course a good finish for them.

You can get pen kits, Slimline for 3 bucks or less. They do make great gifts and I have sold many for 20.00 each to just fund buying more pen kits and finishing supplies. How many times do we get a pretty piece of wood that is just to small to do much but just make a pen….

I was just like everyone else and had my lathe for 4 years before I broke down and got a few kits and never regretted it. My girls even enjoy making pens to give to their teachers for x-mas and b-days. Not many projects out there we can make for less than 5 bucks a piece…... Here is a pic of a future woodworker, the smile says it all….


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Thanks for the tip on Captain Eddie, I like the Easy wood tools but if I can make the same thing with a $15 cutter and a piece of square steel I may try that one day.

I bought a vintage Craftsman "pipe lathe"? I'm still learning but it seems to work ok.

I'm with Carguy on foot powered lathes but I actually dream of making a Springpole lathe one day! Hey who couldn't use a little exercise, and if you can combine it with your woodworking hobby all the better.

Shane, I just PM'ed you something.


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Thanks Mauricio, I will give it a good reading so maybe I can actually ask legitimate questions now. I am on a quest to gather the knowledge…


----------



## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Jason, I really like that Barnes lathe… I wouldn't mind one either.


----------



## MonteCristo (May 29, 2012)

Oneway puts most other lathes out there to shame. But they ain't cheap !


----------



## stonedlion (Jan 12, 2011)

I don't own a lathe, but I am interested in picking up a small one from CL to learn on.

Any advice on models or features to keep an eye peeled for?


----------



## IsaacH (Aug 29, 2012)

Love my NOVA DVR…not the 3000 model, just the origional. Digitally controlled speed with compensation for work load, push button reversable, programable ramp up time, automatically stops when it senses a "hard catch", 360 degree rotating headstock, 16" swing (when between centers….much larger with the headstock turned) and an unlimited distance between centers (but I only have 1 bed extension giving me a total of 44".) If I remember correctly, when I bought it new from WC it was only $1600 in the box. For a wide range of applications and turning sizes its definitly the best lathe for the money in my opinion. I've used it on everything from pens and bottle stoppers up to a 28" bowl. Its also been the origin of a couple of baseball bats. NEVER failed to acomplish what has been asked of her! (yes my lathe is a her)


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Isaach, I have the same lathe. I also got the outboard setup and it is solid as a rock. I had one issue with mine and Customer Service and the repair place which at that time was in WV took care of me in a flash. Did you get the Ornamental Turner setup with yours?


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Gshepherd, thanks for the tips on pens. Your girls are lucky to have you for an instructor! Pen-making is definately something I'll get into before much longer…

Isaach, I sure looked hard at that NOVA DVR…sweet tool…just out of my price range for this year…bummer.

Lance…yeah, I guess I'd pick that Powermatic, too! The amount of features built right in are overwhelming. But, at around $8000, it cost almost as my 4-wheeler! 

Richard, the features you need are determined by the products you want to turn. The hard part is predicting everything you wanna make with a lathe BEFORE buying it!  I mean, if you are looking for a new table saw, you probably already know why…cross cuts, rip cuts, dadoes, maybe tenons? But I think a lathe is more difficult to choose unless you've grown up around them…keep reading, bro…someone here will show ya a good choice for YOU…


----------



## Sanity (Jan 13, 2011)

I started wood turning a couple of years ago and have been hooked ever since. The problem is that I very rarely find the time because of my job, home and yard maintenance, etc. My first lathe was the Delta 46-460 with variable speed, which is a great starter lathe. However, I have wanted to do larger pieces, particularly hollow forms vessels, and so decided I needed to get a larger lathe. Recently I was able to purchase a Powermatic 3520b with the bed extension which I guess you could call the lathe of my dreams. First impressions are that the Powermatic is awesome - it is powerful and smooth.


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Awesome upgrade, Stuart! Thanks for the photo of BOTH lathes…the size difference is very noticeable…Are you looking to sell the 46-460?

Looks like you have a couple of yellow tools in your shop!!!  sweet!


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

One of the main reasons I bought a lathe now was to replace broken knobs on vintage hand planes…Here are the successful knobs I made this week. 









From L to R…Pine cut off…the first piece of wood to hit the lathe after unpacking.
Red Oak turned the first day to fit the first plane in sight…only for practice…this 5 1/2 needs nothing restored.
Walnut to match the new tote on a Stanley #4 recently restored.
Bubinga to match the new tote on a Vaughn & Bushnell being restored…why no frog? Some fool simply forgot to paint it with the rest of the body…and I keep putting it off…


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

What's the finish on that v& b wood terry? It looks kind of flashing


----------



## thedude50 (Aug 13, 2011)

True terry but I am old and have no desire to go four wheeling so I am settling in on getting the big Powermatic.


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Terry that vb is looking mighty sweet…... Finish on that is?


> ?


?


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

^bubinga is finished with shellac and wax.
walnut is food grade BBO…


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Lance, I'm pretty sure you and I are the same age…or very close…old man! 

Out where we live, a 4-wheeler is almost as necessary as a big lawnmower…great for checking the neighbor's fence lines on two of our borders, hauling the chainsaw and fuel, pulling logs around, herding cattle, picking up trash along the road way, 'running' anywhere to grab a missing tool (we live on 160 acres), or just visiting the neighbors.

I certainly don't own the 750cc V-Twin for popping wheelies or anything crazy…although I HAVE flipped the 600 pound beast TWICE up on the mountain side…no injuries.

Hey, Al, YOU seem like a 4-wheeler kinda guy???


----------



## Sanity (Jan 13, 2011)

Thanks, Terry. Yes, I very much like PM machines in general, and am particularly happy with my new 3520b lathe. I had looked at the likes of the PM 4224b and Oneway lathes but could not justify the cost, although as the Dude pointed out the new PM is very good value when you consider all the accessories that come with it as standard, i.e. the vacuum chuck and lighting/power kit. I am not looking to sell the Delta at this point in time.

I received my first commission today so am feeling quite chuffed (it is from a relative but still counts I think!). I like to turn things such as these:


----------



## Sanity (Jan 13, 2011)

I typically like to turn dry wood. I know some people absolutely love turning green wood but I am not one of them. This was my first attempt at making a hollow form vessel with some green ash. I spent the morning cutting up the log with my chain saw, and then cut out the blank on my band saw. I then started turning and roughed out the shape. I started the hollowing but then had to take a break for lunch for about an hour. By the time I got back to the garage the wood was already showing radial cracks - after all that time and effort, what a pisser!!! I had already given up on the piece by that time but by the next day the wood looked like this:










The learning here is to always keep green wood wet when you are turning.


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Now that is one fine looking Goblet….


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

The stand for your turning is pretty sweet too. Would you use a spray bottle to keep it wet? or what would be the method of choice? How long before you are out of the woods with green wood and its movement?


----------



## OnlyJustME (Nov 22, 2011)

hope my skills are as good as yours some day Stuart. What kind of wood is that goblet?


----------



## thedude50 (Aug 13, 2011)

Green wood turning is tricky stuff. I have to say i love the shavings of the green turning wood but I dont like having to treat it like a prom date.

Terry, I am 51 I dont heal well after the fall I WONT GET CLOSE TO A DIRT BIKE OR A QUAD. I just cant take another injury. Plus being diabetic I dont heal fast. So Ya i am old for 51 I live in town now and i like the size of my lot manageable for me. This way I can focus on my good hobby's. I love my shop and hope to have it completed before June.


----------



## RogerC (Dec 20, 2011)

How can it be a lathe of your dreams forum if no one has said they want a Oneway. Made right here in Canada. I mean that PM thedude50 posted is ok but really its just a wanna be/ total poser compared to this beast  http://www.oneway.ca/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=18&Itemid=2


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

My dreams don't reach that far Roger. That is quite beast like, I would have to sell a kidney…hmm, something to think about!


----------



## thedude50 (Aug 13, 2011)

Roger, I prefer the ergonomics and the features of the Powermatic. The one way is no larger than the powermatic and the powermatic is a system you have to add on too many features to the oneway to be close to the Powermatic. . A Poser you have got to be kidding.


----------



## Sanity (Jan 13, 2011)

Firstly, thanks for the nice comments guys. The goblet was made from maple burl with a brown ebony stem. Secondly , Roger I am a big fan of the Oneway lathes but as a hobbyist and wishing to stay married, I could not justify that sort of expense. Let's face it, the prices on the website are a guide because like any German car there are options like stainless steel ways (wouldn't it be great to not have to worry about rust?) which can push up the cost substantially. I like to keep my dreams in the realm of reality….... However, I do have a collection of Oneway products, including the Wolverine jig and accessories, and stronghold chuck for my lathe.

Regarding green wood turning, cracking is of course caused by uneven loss of moisture, i.e. the outside first. I don't have much experience here, but I'm sure you could use a spray bottle to keep the blank wet. I have also been told that if you are leaving the piece on the lathe for any length of time to cover it in a wet towel and or something like Glad wrap. You are not out of the woods until the moisture content is down to about 15%.

There are books about this subject of course, and why green wood is typically rough turned and then carefully stored for months on end, e.g. bowl turners will rough turn a blank so that the ratio of the wall thickness to diameter is approx 10% and then wrap it in brown paper and store it. They will eventually re-chuck the piece and finish turning it. Other turners will simply dry their pieces on the lathe. I think it all comes down to experience.


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Lance, bud, there are many days when I'd like to trade in the 160 acres for just 10…just so I get more shop time!  And I'm post-op x 2 myself. Nursing ruined my lower back, ya know?

Stuart, that goblet is to die for! Congrats on the commision…

Roger…OK…The Oneway 2436 with 3hp is the new lathe of MY dreams!  The spindles, bearings, everything sound overbuilt the way I'd expect a $6500 tool to be! 









At first, I was put off by the tubular bed style…but now I see their reason for it. And I sure thought they were more expensive than powermatics! Guess I was wrong about that…

But, there's no way I'd consider a powermatic costing $6000 to be a poser. Their tools are legendary.

just sayin'


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Shane, here's another book recommendation for your wallet to enjoy… 

Turning Green Wood by Michael O'Donnell.

No experience with such here…yet…but I've hand carved many bowls, so intend to turn many as well. The idea of turning green stuff now…letting it dry for 6-12 months…then finishing the piece sounds like long term fun! 

can you guys tell I'm hooked after a week!!!


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

I could tell after that first knob!!


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

In looking at non budget busting lathes, what type of emphasis should one put on horse power? I see that the ones I am mostly noticing in my beginning research are 3/4 to 2hp (110 power). Is horsepower a real important feature? Also, what should be the lowest capability speed I should be looking for? So many questions…thanks


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Shane, as far as low speeds…I've been handing sanding at about 700 rpm and that feels pretty comfy to me..although I turn about 300 rpm when using a pencil for layout. Only got 3/4 hp myself…couldn't afford more. I assume more hp is for larger diameter pieces?

Hey, Don, I turned a knob up-side down this week! oops!


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

I've never done that. Nope. Never.


----------



## Planeman40 (Nov 3, 2010)

All of this talk about lathes prompted me to join in.

I have an old Delta 12" lathe from around the 1940s that is all cast iron and solid as a brick. Wonderful machine. The truth is a wood lathe, unlike a lot of machines, is a very simple machine with no close tolerances except for good bearings in the headstock. It does need to be heavy to deal with out-of-round work at the beginning of turning.

That said, one of the most interesting wood lathes I have ever seen was a large one in the Georgia Tech aeronautical engineering shop back in the early 1960s when I was there. You would think they would have a cast iron monster, but what was there was a large shop-made all-wood lathe. The bed was made from two large nicely planed beams of hard maple about 12" x 6" each and about 12 ft. long, The headstock was simply a huge DC electric motor with a large speed control mounted to the maple beams that had a shop-made spindle mounted to the motor shaft. The tailstock was all maple except for a shop-made steel center and the tool rest was all maple. The base was a nice boxy affair weighted down with sand inside. Any one of us could have made that thing. I asked about it and was told it was made in the WW-2 days when steel and iron was war priority and was still used frequently and worked beautifully.

Just a thought about what often does an excellent job doesn't have to be expensive or "store-bought".

Planeman


----------



## Sanity (Jan 13, 2011)

Planeman I agree with what you say apart from the part about close tolerances. If your drive center and tail stock center aren't accurately aligned you are in trouble.


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Terry, your right on track looking at the OneWay….... 6500 clams you still have 2,ooo left over to outfit it the way you like and on certain tools I look at resale as well….. How many Oneway Lathes do you see beings sold as used vs Powermatic….. I am not knocking the Powermatic but give me 8k and I will get the Oneway and never look back unless I am walking away from it…. But for now I have to settle with my Nova DVR…...


----------



## RogerC (Dec 20, 2011)

No I'm afriad I have to call you on this one dude50 unless the powermatic is made on this side of the puddle? in that case I have some simpathy to the guy who bought it at 7500 at woodcraft. But I'm pretty sure its not, so compared to the Oneway which is just incredibly well manufactured I dont have a stitch of hesitation in choosing it every single time. Just the lathe itself with a monster headstock/tailstock, incredible bearings, servicability, etc. is impressive. Then come the accessories, the chucks, live centers, faceplates etc. just absolute tanks. I get a kick out of that live center everytime, its just so solid! http://oneway.ca/spindle/live_center.htm I mean double bearings and the cone holding options? great stuff. And Gshepherd is absolutley right. I have only ever seen one, Onway come up for sale and it was for the same price he actually bought it for a few years back. Can't beat that!


----------



## RogerC (Dec 20, 2011)

forgot to mention the optional Stainless bed, also awesome


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

When you guys think about it…. Compare a Oneway to a Powermatic is pure insanity. The Oneway has that ora of quality glowing around it. Overkill on construction. Then you look at the price between the 2 and IMOP hands down the Oneway is the holy grail of lathes….. I am sure the Powermatic is nice also and I know a lot of guys love them and that is great. How many Oneway owners would trade for a Powermatic and vise versa?


> ?


Before I bought my first lathe which was the Nova DVR, I looked at a nice Powermatic but for the money differance and not even knowing if I would be hooked with the bug I chose the Nova…. The Nova is a darn good Lathe but it is no Oneway….. Now do I wish when I had the bucks to buy the Oneway, Hell Yes….. My goal now is to Pimp myself out to get enough cash to buy myself a Oneway…. So hopefully in 20 or so years I can have my dream come true….


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

...still new to my lathe…I guess THIS is what the reversing switch does? 










(Just kidding…my $700 jet doesn't have such a switch)


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

The good news Terry is…the shape and proportions are really nice.


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

So far I have to say it is the best upside down knob I have ever seen….. Wow did I just leave the door open there?


> ?


----------



## thedude50 (Aug 13, 2011)

I dont think country of origin is a mater to me like it used to be. I have never thought of Canadian goods as High quality like old American goods. But when Walter Meier built the plant in Taiwan and trained all the workers to build things to their standards it is less an issue as one would think.

That said this is still kind of a free country for at least the time being. And while it is I will choose to purchase the Powermatic as soon as money allows. I am not going to get into a pissing match of whose is better. I have looked at all the machines and feel the Powermatic meets my needs better. If you choose to buy the One Way that is fine by me but the Powermatic is a sound machine it is considered to be the favorite of buyers as well as it has a back order status and has since the day it was released dealers should be able to see the lathe in their stores soon but they seem to sell as soon as they arrive.

In my opinion the one way has poor ergonomics, it is quite ugly and is from a tiny manufacture. I want something that will have support for 30 years. I dont want to buy from a small company only to have to have replacement parts fabricated when it breaks.


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Dude, I agree with a lot of your saying and respect that. Everyone has their own taste and critera on how they determine what is best for them.

I however totally disagree with one comment…....

I dont think country of origin is a mater to me like it used to be

I do care where my purchases are being made. I will purchase American Made products whenever possible. I know it can not be done everytime…. I take a lot of pride in my shop knowing I have the majority of my equipment and handtools american made. Knowing that my purchase in some way has help keep food on the table for someone. If everyone had felt as strongly as I do on this subject there would be less unemployment.

Table Saw, Jointer, Planer, 2 Drill Presses, 37" Sander, Scroll Saw, Edge Sander, Rosette Cutter Machine, Panel Master, Spraying Equipment, W H Moulder, Disk Sander, Dust Collector, numerous handtools, drill bits, Starret, W.L. Fuller, Snappy, Montana Brand, USA Clamps just to name a few….. It does make a difference…....

As it should to You and everyone who reads this. I'll get off the box now…..


----------



## thedude50 (Aug 13, 2011)

Well like I said it does not matter to me as much as it once did. With every American company making tools in the free Asian market. We have taxed and inflated our goods right out of the market in the name of corporate profits. But if the quality is as good or better than things made currently in the USA. I will buy the Import and frankly I dont feel guilty about it anymore. I just got several new tools and I didn't even look at where they were made as part of the decision to buy. If there were comparable American made goods I would have bought them but in most cases there were either none or none available with the features I wanted. New PCS from Saw Stop not made in the USA. no safe saw is made here . only us made choice Delta Unisaw Not available with safety devise. and still hard to come by. Hand Planes I just spent 2k on hand planes that are new All were American made All Lie Nielsen. I prefer these planes to any currently made but not including boutique Planes. I choose to buy these because I THINK THEY ARE THE BEST TOOL However some people think they can get as good of results with antique planes and while I do get great results with my vintage planes there is level of performance I get from new planes . I will be buying a couple of more tools but I am close to full. I plan or the lathe purchase and I need a big planer and a molding machine. A few more Hand Planes and a toy from time to time but my shop if full so every purchase is a choice of what I keep and what I give up.


----------



## thedude50 (Aug 13, 2011)

Well like I said it does not matter to me as much as it once did. With every American company making tools in the free Asian market. We have taxed and inflated our goods right out of the market in the name of corporate profits. But if the quality is as good or better than things made currently in the USA. I will buy the Import and frankly I dont feel guilty about it anymore. I just got several new tools and I didn't even look at where they were made as part of the decision to buy. If there were comparable American made goods I would have bought them but in most cases there were either none or none available with the features I wanted. New PCS from Saw Stop not made in the USA. no safe saw is made here . only us made choice Delta Unisaw Not available with safety devise. and still hard to come by. Hand Planes I just spent 2k on hand planes that are new All were American made All Lie Nielsen. I prefer these planes to any currently made but not including boutique Planes. I choose to buy these because I THINK THEY ARE THE BEST TOOL However some people think they can get as good of results with antique planes and while I do get great results with my vintage planes there is level of performance I get from new planes . I will be buying a couple of more tools but I am close to full. I plan or the lathe purchase and I need a big planer and a molding machine. A few more Hand Planes and a toy from time to time but my shop if full so every purchase is a choice of what I keep and what I give up.


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

I agree with a lot of what you are saying….. I am just saying we should pay more attention and support the companys with good products. When I make a purchase I do pay attention to where it is made and if there is a company who makes an item here and it is good I will buy it….. There are a lot of items not made here that are top notch as well this I know…..

So what kind of moulding machine are you looking at? Planer?

Check out Robust lathes….. also Serious Tool works…. I have to admitt the Robust looks pretty sweet…..


----------



## thedude50 (Aug 13, 2011)

I have not decided if i will go with a shaper or a molding cutter instead there are tons of choices and the molding cutting machine will likely come after the lathe. Did you have a idea on a molding machine or a shaper? I have just started my research on these tools. It takes me a while to make up my mind although I am partial towards WM tools jet or Powermatic.

It was a hard choice when i decided on a table saw I WANTED A SAFE SAW but I also wanted a Powermatic. I ended up going with the Saw Stop because it is built well and it is a safe saw. But for me to pull the trigger it had to be a great saw performance fit and finish wise.


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

oooh…I like the overbuilt look of that Robust…automatically means I can't afford it! Heck, I don't even have to look up the price on a power tool that looks THAT nice…outta my league. 

Anybody here turn bottle stoppers or small stuff on a screw-based mount? I think Nova calls their's a wormwood screw…

I tried it once this weekend and it sucked the big one! I was turning a little knob for a plane…drilled the 3/8" pilot hole as described…threaded the blank on the screw by hand…but it was loose and wobbly as he!! under chisel pressure! Oh yeah, I also had a 1/4" through hole bored in the blank…and the screw was held by nova jaws…

Was my through hole the problem? What do you guys use to hold the screw? jaws? or drill chuck? I'd love to know more…


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

I just noticed this weekend while skipping through the WC site looking at some lathe tools and found that they are now offering the Robust lathe. They are pricey…... But before I would drop 8-9k on a Powermatic, I would defiently go with the Robust or Oneway…... Did you see how the tail stock tilts away….. I got tears in my eyes looking at that….. Buying a Robust or Oneway is like buying your last Lathe…...


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Oh Terry, I have used the screw mount and find I have the same problem with it as well,,,, Now if I thew on a log to turn down some I think it would be a good choice, roughing a log down some…. I usually just use a spur until I get a dovetail or make it ready for the chuck works best for me but I by far no expert maybe in 10 years or so I will be,LOL…...


----------



## rum (Apr 28, 2011)

A Holtzapffel (or clone) ornamental would be pretty interesting. Hadn't heard of the Ray Lawler clone, thanks for that. I also really like the idea of the treadle lathes, although a slightly heavier flywheel seems like it might work moderately better (.

There is an Axelson right now on gsaauctions.gov (auction # A1QSCI13015748 - can't figure out how to link to the actual auction) that I think qualifies. "LATHE, MFG AXELSON MFG CO, SIZE 24", 20 FT BED, 29" SWING, 170" CENTER WITH FLAME SPRAYER-(SPRAYER DISASSEMBLED & READY TO LOAD), SN: 0087591, 1 EA. Broom not included." 
I have no idea what I'd do with it much less where to put it (or how to load/unload it). Hehe. Current bid with one day left is only $509, although I bet it goes a lot higher and the cost to move would be .. interesting.

I'd second a Robust and One Way as dream lathes for normal people 

A large pattern makers lathe like a Oliver 20/22 or Faye & Scott or similar would be pretty nifty as well.


----------



## Tennessee (Jul 8, 2011)

In 2002 my wonderful wife asked me what my dream lathe would be, if I could choose. I went back and forth between the Oneway and the Powermatic, and finally settled on a Powermatic 3220, no extension table, but with the extra tool rest holder and the long tool rest, an outboard tool rest, (heavy bugger), some extra bowl tools and lots of different jaws for the chuck. Back then, the only complaints I had were the 3220 had a frequency readout on the back, no RPM readout, (but who really uses that), and the chuck thread size was a little strange in 2002, 1 1/4X8TPI, I believe.
Since then, I've made lots of stuff on that thing, moved it three times across country, and it still runs perfectly, smoothly, and at low speeds, you had better look because you cannot hear it running until you put a tool to it. Absolutely no complaints at all. Last project was a gavel for a new Toastmasters club a friend asked for in Maryland. I've often thought I somehow should build a guitar on it, some sort of strange rotational instrument.


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Paul, sounds like you got a lot of use out of your Powermatic, heck 10 years already…. time flys…. I never had a lathe and and liked the features on the Nova DVR. It is a good lathe, excellent CS….. I also bought the ornamental turner attachment they offered back then along with some of the other accessories like a tool rest for metal turning and thread bits ect et…. But I would love to have a Oneway or Robust. Oneway before just because of the cost. You could easily have 10k into the Robust. That is a lot of coin for us weekend warriors…..

It is nice to dream about them though. Most important is no matter what lathe you have as long as you use it and enjoy it. It's all about making shavings and smiles…... Your B-saw boxes are very nice by the way…..


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

I agree with ya there, shep, it's fun to dream about a lathe costing 10 grand…but it's only a dream for most of us! 

Making shavings is what it's all about. For me, watching the finished form begin to take shape, then slowly mimick my drawing is like a drug! The lathe may be a power tool, but it certainly makes me feel connected to the wood…constantly, ya know?

My hands are tired from filling a 5 gallon bucket with chips today…maple…walnut…bubinga…only got 3/4hp.


----------



## REO (Sep 20, 2012)

The Oneway, The Powermatic, The Robust, and then to look down on someone who doesn't want the one you want. I guess I misinterpreted dream. I took it as a goal not as a fantasy. I would like to hear back from some of the posters. Its like dreaming to fly a fighter jet without understanding what makes a plane fly. Did you just look up a big expensive lathe and post a picture.What would you do on some of the lathes you have mentioned. Include your present level of experience. Can someone tell me what problem is caused on a wood lathe with a slightly out of line tailstock and headstock. (slightly not extremely) Or why precision bearings instead of standard bearings makes a difference. Why is the powermatic cast and others are welded steel. Bragging rights don't make turnings any better just more expensive.


----------



## OnlyJustME (Nov 22, 2011)

My current lathe only has 1/3hp but it works good enough. Had a little trouble with some really old and cured black locust Would be nice to be able to leave the chips on my concrete floor as a cushion but drop anything and it disappears.


----------



## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

I'll just stick with my old T-bed Craftsman, had almost 30 years now. All I ever need it for is maybe a few table legs, and maybe some knobs and other handles. Just a basic set of chisels too, nothing real fancy. Cost to buy this lathe when new? About $90, with the chisels being extra. had to wait until I sold a couple Chest-on-Chests before I could get a set from Sears. Then went out and bought second set a few years later, just for some smaller profiles. I do have ONE bowl gouge, never used.

Just a little 12" swing, by 37" long lathe. Small grooved belt that I move back and forth to change to one of the five speeds this has. Might take…..maybe…1 minute to change speeds.

Been looking around for other "centers" that might fit, maybe a live center in the tail stock? Used an old "Floor Flange" as a face plate. Just chuck it on to the headstock, and gave the casting a spin. Used a couple files to true up the casting (Gray Iron) just to get a wobble out of it. Either a 3/4' pipe flange, or maybe a 1" pipe flange size, been awhile since I've used it. Tried one bowl turning, wasn't my "cup of tea", moved on to other items.


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Well…I have been looking, reading, and watching all things lathe. As I begin to narrow in on a purchase strategy, I am still somewhat lost as to what features are most important and worth the extra costs. It looks like Jet, Nova, Grizzly all have lathes that I could, in theory buy. Havent waded through all the reviews yet. Still deciding on how much I want/need to spend. The Nova1624-44 lathe seems to have a lot of nice features. Reverse, slow speed options, and 1 1/2 hp, decent capacity, add on doo dads. It is a more than I really want to spend, but could swing it, if that is where the value is. The Grizzly 0462 catches my eye due to price. Has a 2hp motor, but doesnt look to have reverse and doesnt really have a low speed option ( I think 700 is the lowest) but is like $600 plus freight. Jet has a couple options, one at like $1200 and one at $900. 1hp and 3/4hp respectively. Gets down to 450 rpms, no reverse.

I am not sure if my eyes are bigger than my stomach on this one. My next turning will be my first. Mostly I see handles, knobs, small things in my future…but then also drawn to segmented, bowls, and platters. No interest in long spindle type things. So I would hate to buy a midi, then need/want something full size. But, maybe…a midi would do. It is not like I actually have room for this thing, so I am in my usual tool paralysis mode.

Are the Novas a step up, and a tool that could one for a while? Is the Grizzly a waste of money? Should I just buy a cheaper midi until I actually know what I am doing and what I need? Have I asked too many questions???? Any insight would be appreciated from the turners of the world.


----------



## thedude50 (Aug 13, 2011)

I want to turn big bowls too and my current lathe meets Why I decided to buy the big powermatic is simple I want to turn large vessels. My current lathe is a great beginner lathe it is the most copied lathe made it is the jet jl1236 It has plenty of power but i dont recall the rating and i am not going down to the shop to check. The more bowls I turn the bigger I want to turn. So I asked my friends at Powermatic to send me the media kit on the new big lathe I read and watched all the video and know it is huge I WONT EVER NEED BIGGER AND I TRUST powermatic. I was sold on the Powermatic system. I know the Quality because I HAVE SEVERAL Powermatic tools now and I like them all very much.


----------



## 228861 (Feb 23, 2009)

My dream lathe is a HAPFO AP 5000 copy lathe. they cost anywhere from 40 to 100 thousand and are very accurate. I found one for 800 bucks and put alot of time into refurb and the result is sweet! Now in retirement,I can work for contractors etc and make money


----------



## 228861 (Feb 23, 2009)

Since this picture was taken,an inverter was installed to change from 3phase to single phase and a ac drive motor was installed to move the cutter assembly up and down the bed.I will try to post a video in the future. if you want a copy of an existing turning it will do it very easily,and as many as you want. It has paid for it's self already and as soon as the economy turns around maybe make a living at it.


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Dude, when you get your new lathe you will have to do a review…. You will be able to turn tree trunks with that one….. When are you getting it?

REO, I do not see where anyone here has looked down on anybody. Slightly out of line headstock and tail stock, results into tapers and out of rounds…..I bet your bearings will wear out quicker as well…. Precision bearing vs a standard bearing is all about tolerance levels, they are made the same just that less play in them. They are made on the same line only that they have been tested, higher QC….. There is more tech mumbo jumbo but pretty much hows it plays out, but you know all that already if you been turning for close to 50 years….. am I right or wrong?

As it goes for just looking for the most expensive lathe and posting a picture, is no,,,,,, Someone is looking to drop 8k into a lathe so for that kind of coin there are other options to look at….. Stainless steel bed plate, Tilt away tailstock, moveable Headstock, Position of the motor, Spindle height adjustment ect et…. As you get higher in machine purchases there are features offered that are not on the less expensive models. Besides, those are my personal choices. Your coming across a tad strong don't you think? Now if you think for one moment I look down on someone just because they do not agree with me on what I would buy then I did not explain myself well enough. If anybody here took offense please accept my sincere apologies. As it goes for lathe experience I am just a rookie and know very little…...


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Art, that is one pretty lathe and you did an excellent job on the refurb…....


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Art, you can turn porch posts with that, right? Man, that's incredible. Nice refurb, indeed!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Q: What's variable speed used for, and when is it used? My lathe has the variable pulleys Bandit described. Why change speeds? What is 'swing' in a lathe? Why is reversable desirable? What kind of 'jaws for the chuck' are common vs. desirable? I've got the cross-hatch and a threaded base that I guess is for bowls.


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

in my preliminary studies smitty…speed varies based on size/balance of turning. Swing is measurement from center to bed. So 2x swing is approx largest diameter of turning. Reverse for sanding….and? Havent a clue on the rest.


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Reverse is good for sanding and scraping…. I know when doing bowls and such the wood fibers will laydown in one direction and it is hard to get a real smooth finish but reversing directions will usually cure that problem….You will notice on some of the Spindle adapters there is a set screw that is to lock it on the spindle so if you do go into reverse the chuck does not flyoff…..

Speed is nice to adjust for size of turning, sanding, finish work… When starting to rough out a bowl I will start fairly slow around 600-900 rpms depending on the size and as I get it cleaned up will increase the speed. Now with micro sanding papers they suggest going around 200 or less rpm… so you do not burn the mesh….

Now keep in mind my 600rpm to 900rpm is typicial what bowls size I am doing, when you get into larger bowls it will even be slower. Your right on the face plate… I also do Stave turnings and use a compression ring jig and have the faceplate screwed on that cause I use it over and over.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Thanks, I learned more about lathes tonight than I ever knew! Lobe this site…


----------



## REO (Sep 20, 2012)

Now this thread has "turned" into something. Questions , answers and information. Gshep you are pretty close I started turning when I was 7 My dad turned for over 60 years. On a wood lathe and I did specify that because most people use hand tools to turn. A slight out of alignment situation will not cause tapers. on a lathe witha bed used for guiding the tool such as a metal lathe it will and in fact the tailstock in some situations is offset for just that purpose. It will not cause out of round either the lathe still runs concentric to the centers. Precision bearings….same thing just to justify a higher cost. I have a 1949 atlas with the same bearings in it for 65 years of its life anyway not precision just plain. This particular lathe has done 5 million pieces of just one item I had to replace seals on it a couple times but the bearings are the same. The run out difference between precision bearings and standard is in the tenths of thousandths range and certainly will not effect the finish of any type of wood. You sand more than that even if you start with 320 sand paper. I may have improperly chosen my words to say "look down on". It started to look like "my dream is bigger than your dream" and there were some comments made as to why one lathe was better than another. I apologize for my misunderstanding. Horse powers are blown way out of proportion. On variable speed setups they are figured at the highest attainable speed. At less than designed operating speeds the Torque drops off dramatically. I agree that being able to adjust the speed is important. lathes that advertise speeds that start at 0 are pulling your leg. Though they may be able to get low speed under load they will surge and the motors develop heat very quickly. Using variable speed and the pulleys properly above at least half of the rated shaft speed of the motor is best. Reverse is a good feature for reasons described earlier. Swing head lathes are kinda slick especially for operations other than gross material removal but, stability is sacrificed whenever it is out of position. If your going for the big diameters chuck up on the back of the spindle, you will have to come up with a turning support either way. A swing away tail stock? ok I'll give you that you don't have to lift it off the lathe and back on when you install your steady rest, but for several hundred dollars? have a friend put something together for it. I know the OP said if money was no object, sorry. Not trying to wet on anyone's parade. I think that good true information can bring turning to people that think its out of reach because they think they need a "better" lathe to make better turnings. It comes down to the operator.


----------



## REO (Sep 20, 2012)

Art what size motor do you need for the traverse drive on that lathe?


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Oh yeah…the operator is the single most influencial factor in turning…Good, true info is exactly why we all love this thread. For some experienced folks, it's boring re-hash of terminology…for others all the terms are new.

REO, we need turner's with your experience to help answer questions!

But, we also need newbies like me to spark enthusiasm.  LOL!

The Dream Lathe concept is stolen from the Hand Plane of your Dreams thread…most everyone uses vintage stanleys that have been well tuned for work day in and out, but a photo of a sweet, sometimes unafordable, tool is considered 'tool porn'...and simply adored for the workmanship that went into the piece. Has nothing to do with my truck is bigger than yours. 

for example…a fine Holtey jointer that no one could afford…except the guy who commisioned it!









I will NEVER own such a fine plane, but I enjoy looking at photos of 'em…and I know some of the other weirdos here like it, too, that's why I would post an unaffordable lathe…just sayin'


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

REO, The headstock and tailstock being off, your correct…. I have a Legacy 1800, but also before that I had one of the cnc lathes and I remember doing a taper the tailstock was lowered for the taper….. Out of alignment for being out of round is correct also, I was writing on things and thinking of another, cause at first I would have to rechuck and before I got the tailstock chuck I would just use the old center point and if your off at all you will find out very fast…That your off orginal center. Now since I got the tailstock chuck center it has been great. Hope that made scense….

I know some lathes you can turn from the back side of the headstock but on the Nova DVR you can not, thus just turn the head around but on some lathes you can actually have two people turning if your brave enough. By just watchin my Uncle roughing out bowls and seeing what has happened to him several times I have no desire being that close…... It would be nice just for finishing to be able to use both ends cause on smaller pieces I turn the lathe about 150rpm and use a brush to apply the finish and leave it run. By doing so it seems to level out nicely. I have the ability to finish 2 at a time that way….

If someone is looking to by a lathe, A Good approach is to determine a total budget. Figure in a basic set of lathe tools, a chuck…..grinding jig, what else????? Determine your goals with it. Then just narrow it down from there with the different features….. Other accessories can be bought later like, different jaws, sizes of chucks, ect ect. A budget will determine your options.


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Terry, your 100% correct…. I know there are guys reading this who know have forgotten more than I will ever know about. What is important what is not and what is just eye candy…. These guys hopefully will step up and with all their years of experience help out the guys who are just starting myself included. There are so many different ways to go anymore when buying anytype of equipment it does get overwelming. What one feature is good for one it may not be important to another.

What are the basic things to look for in a lathe? There has to be a good foundation to start with right? I pick up the phone and call my Uncle or look through a book or look for answers here…..


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

I am trying to narrow in on the budget, while trying to keep in mind that I only want to cry once. If I have to spend a little more to get the value, I probably will be ok with that. I just dont want to get something, out grow it, and then be right back in the market again. However, there is always the chance that I try turning…and think eh, not for me. I would be a lot more comfortable in the $600 machine range than the $1100 machine range. But, I am only trying to buy once, and I am buying a machine and into a craft I know next to nothing about. That is what gives me pause. Heck, maybe I get the HF model and see what all the fuss is about? I always over think tool purchases.


----------



## Planeman40 (Nov 3, 2010)

ShaneA, You can get an excellent wood lathe for $600. It just won't be new. $600 will buy you a nice older (and better) Delta or Powermatic lathe if you keep looking. There is virtually nothing that can go wrong with them if they haven't been abused. You can easily get new bearings and motors if needed and the rest is clean up and paint. Just make sure you are getting a 110 or 200 volt *SINGLE PHASE* electrical input and not three phase industrial power if you have a home shop. And even if you do find a wonderful three phase machine, you can buy a phase converter, though one will cost a couple of hundred bucks or more. I have often thought that if I was starting a shop all over again I would get a three phase converter and take advantage of the lower prices of used 3-phase machines on the market.

Planeman


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Shane, I looked on CL Seward,ne Your griz is on there for 475 bucks and he will throw in some lathe tools to boot….. Check that out…. 475 your set up and once you are into it later down the road you can get what options you really like….

Oh i know no reverse but believe me you can do a lot, even bowls without that option…. 16in swing it is a good starter for sure in my book…. 2hp variable speed, be nice to get down to 200 or so so maybe some others can chime in on the low end speed…..


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Thanks guys, I have looked over CL a few times. Seward, NE sounds like a haul for me. By the time I figuremy time and gas, I may be up to retail? I get that they are "simple" machines, but I am always a little leary of used stuff. But I will begin to monitor it more closely. If I could score a Delta or PM w/110 power, I may bite on that.


----------



## REO (Sep 20, 2012)

dont let 3 phase scare you off! For 125 dollars you can get a VFD and then you will have the variable speed and the reversing characteristics as well. if you want to you can have three phase for the price of a switch and some wire. You will need an extra 3 phase motor but they can be had for scrap price. that will give you a reversible machine too.


----------



## Salmo (Sep 27, 2012)

My dream lathe would be a one Oneway with a ton of extras. It's got size/weight/power/accuracy/large swing etc. I need a small lottery win first though :O). Already have some Oneway accessories (Like a Talon chuck, for example and their Termite tool for use in making bowls) for my Rockwell Beaver 11, which is puny by comparison, but I have enjoyed using it and will continue to do so until that dream machine comes to my little shop.


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Hey, you experienced turners, I've a newbie question…

I'm trying to burn the v-grooves already cut into a bowl's outer surface…read about a guy using wire to do this somewhere online…but no wire I've tried yet works. picture hanging wire, copper of various gauges, thin steel, even my wood burner tip doesn't do the trick.

what's the trick?


----------



## REO (Sep 20, 2012)

almost any wire will work. how much pitch is in the wood determines how long you have to hold the wire to burn. several have used a piece of laminate to do this as well. the diameter of the wire has a lot to do with burn time as well.|Careful the wire gets hot! do not wrap past 1/2 way around or it will grab and surprise you. against what some will tell you wear gloves the first time just make sure the cuffs don't dangle where they can become fouled in anything.


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Thanks, REO, I'll turn up the speed and have another go…just maple…seems like it would burn easily enough!


----------



## ArlinEastman (May 22, 2011)

Right now I have had my Delta 46-460 for 2 years however, my dream lathe is the VB36 long bed










This one has no bed, however, a bed cost $2500 more and here is a link to the seller here in the US for the Brittish maker

To me this lathe is the best that a person in a wheel chair can work from. You can sit in front of it and do almost anything.

http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/6/1/27/120/-/5523/VB36-Master-Bowlturner-Lathe

Arlin


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Terry, I myself would not be trying to hold onto wire just in case it does slip for reasons I bet you already can see. They make some safe solutions with the wire in different sizes depending on the turning and wooden handles.


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Arlin, that is a nice lookin lathe there, you could do some massive bowls on that one. I know that Robust makes a lathe where you can be seated and if memory serves me correct so does Oneway. There is a good video on the Robust site of a gentleman who is in a wheel chair using one of them.


----------



## REO (Sep 20, 2012)

Do a search for OREOS40 as a poster on youtube. I have a couple vids on burning rings. one is on the edge of a bowl and the other is on some Epee handles


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Just got back from the shop…picture hanging wire does indeed burn maple! I was just too impatient before…

...but if there a safer way…heck, I'm here to learn!


----------



## rance (Sep 30, 2009)

Terry, I'd recommend a non-stranded wire for burning. I'd also recommend non-wound Guitar strings. Stranded wire will work, but it can make deeper cuts since it sometimes CUTs in addition to just burning.


----------



## thedude50 (Aug 13, 2011)

GSheppard, I have to say the goal is next spring. I would like to do it sooner but I am not going to pull the trigger yet. I have to let the shop turn a profit before another major purchase. I just purchased close to 10k in tools a couple of months back. I know if I dont turn a profit I MAY LOOSE THE SUPPORT OF MY BETTER HALF. I will not risk her for the lathe at this moment IF the fed ex truck or roadrunner show up with another big assed box the wife would be pissed.


----------



## rmoore (Mar 9, 2011)

Arlin & Gsheperd,
Here is a link to a video of my buddy Adam Hood, also an LJ member. He is using a Robust lathe. May be the same video you referred to, Gsheperd.


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Dude, I totally understand why the wait, who knows by then they would be out for a while and maybe a nice sale…....

Rmoore, that is the video…... They make some damn nice Lathes…...


----------



## carguy460 (Jan 3, 2012)

If anyone wants guitar strings like rance mentioned, I've got a plethora of used ones…I knew I was saving them for a reason!


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Jason, wanna trade some guitar strings for a coffee spoon? or a mallet? PM me…

I bet I can add some custom handles to 10" guitar string…new project idea!


----------



## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

For smaller turnings, Beall has some new scrapers.
Good folks and good products.


----------



## carguy460 (Jan 3, 2012)

No need to trade, Terry! I probably shouldn't have spoken so soon…there is a small chance that my wife threw out my stash. I'll check tonight and send you a PM once I'm sure I've still got them. I wonder if there would be any use for the wound strings? Might work like an abrasive or something?


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Jason, no problema…

My best friend IRL plays guitar all the time…AND wants me to drive over to help move some rough cut cherry today. Perfect.


----------



## ArlinEastman (May 22, 2011)

GS

I really like the Robust and used one at a friends house. To me it is the same thing as all the rest of the lathes.

If a lathe that stands upright and is tilted at 15 to 20* angle towards the turner would work great or the best I can think of is turning from the end of the lathe.

This way I can face the work and move quite abit more. A person in a wheelchair can not move the body and tool like someone standing who can move their bodies to make a better cut.

I hope I explained it pretty good.

I do not even need anything as big as the VB36 just a lathe where the head can move to the end of the bed.

Arlin


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Not one of my dreams but pretty fascinating, you can make a lathe out anything!









Look how fit that little Indian dude is!


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

It would be interesting to see some home made lathes and some duplicators.


----------



## RVroman (Nov 9, 2012)

My current lathe is the Jet 1642, and I could not be happier. The only thing I am not thrilled about is the indexing system it uses, but I can live with that. My dream would probably be the Powermatic 4224B. Nothing against Oneway, Vicmark, etc. but the sliding headstock is important to me. I probably do 90% of my turning off the end of the lathe. The only time I have used the full length of the 1642 was when I was turning and drilling a 3 foot section of a flyrod tube. However, at 8 grand I do not see the Powermatic in my future, EVER! :-(

Lots of good questions in the thread. But a few caught my eye:

As far as wires for burning go, they do make a commercial product, KC Wire Burners. I have a set, but I have found that the ones I made with guitar strings do just as well, and were a lot cheaper.

Someone mentioned that they sand at 700, yet turn at 300, remember, turn fast, sand slow. Sanding at about 200 - 300 is about as fast as you want to go.

Turning green wood, rough it out leaving the walls about 1" thick. Coat it in anchor seal, wrap it in two brown paper grocery bags, and let it sit for about 6 months. Then turn it again to its final shape. Lately I have been soaking wet rough turnings in DNA for about 48 hours to speed up the drying, and have been getting good results without any cracking. There are a lot of good tutorials on the web about how to do this (the way it is wrapped is key)

ShaneA, where to start? ;-) I was in the same position you are when upgrading my lathe. I had a very basic machine with a 12" swing and about 33" between centers. I was looking at the jet 1642, NOVA DVR, and a few of the Grizzly machines. I spent about 6 - 8 months doing research, looking at the Jet and NOVA in person, etc. A few things turned me away from the Grizzly you mentioned (I am guessing it is the GO462).

The speed only went down to 600 rpm. If you plan to do larger things, want to do any drilling, or a variety of other operations, you will want a slower speed than that. As I recall it does not have indexing. While this may not be important now, it very well could be in the future (it was to me, the pic at the end of this could not have been done without indexing). Also I felt the sliding headstock of the 1642 was of greater benefit than the rotating headstock on the Grizzly or the NOVA.

I finally narrowed it down between the Jet 1642 and the Grizzly GO632. I went with the Jet as it was local, I could see it, Jet's reputation, and I have a great relationship with my local distributor. (I should probably mention that my lathe is the most used machine in my shop, everything else I use is pretty much for blank preparation, or somehow related to what I am going to turn)

As far as cost, and starting for under $1,000, it depends on how much you get into turning. While you can get started for that, if you really get into it the lathe will be the least of your expenses. Chucks, jaws, gouges, the expense of accessories is controlled by you, but it can get large.

You had mentioned going with a cheaper lathe (I think a Harbor Freight one) just to see if you liked it or not. I am usually one to tell people to run from HF, but I will also admit that I used one of their lathes (34706) very heavily for about 5 years and never had any issues with it. The only reason I upgraded is that I outgrew it, the lathe never failed. In fact it is still in the shop and my 8 year old uses it often. You can usually pick them up new for around $200, but if you are thinking of going that route I would read the reviews of it on the HF site and in various forums, they are pretty good.

Finally, check to see if there is a turning club in your area, that would be a great source of information, getting ideas, perhaps trying a few machines, and learning techniques. You will find that the amount of community and collaboration among turners is amazing. People are [almost] always willing to share information.

That is probably enough for now.


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

RV, thanks for sharing your knowledge! I may have been the newbie who mentioned sanding at 700 rpm…only on spindles so far…turning bowls the past couple of days…mostly 5" in diameter…and I slowed down to 400 rpm for that sanding. I love the vari-speed function, so I can turn the lathe to slowest speed for re-marking my pencil lines…then crank it back to 1000 rpm for chisel work.

I also looked at the Grizzly and Jet 1642 very closely before deciding om my little Jet1220. I wanted the larger Jet, but as you mentioned, after considering the additional cost of chucks, jaws, turning tools, etc, I went smaller on the lathe.

And, oh yeah, THAT is an impressive hollow form! How large is it?


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Great info RV, thanks.


----------



## walden (Nov 11, 2012)

My dream lathe is a Barnes peddle lathe. I saw one at Roy Underhill's school this past summer and have been thinking about it ever since.


----------



## carguy460 (Jan 3, 2012)

Walden - thats my dream lathe too!


----------



## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

and this is the one that Mauricio needs… 









Barnes treadle threading lathe… saw it on one of the Woodwright's Shop episodes, and thought Maucicio could use it to make wooden screws… but then again, I'm not sure if you can get the tpi to be low enough…
http://www.lathes.co.uk/barnes/


----------



## carguy460 (Jan 3, 2012)

Yeah, I saw that episode Mos! That thing is sweet!

I had the same thought about cutting the wood screws…I bet its a bear to set up correctly!


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

haha, Yeah I skimmed through that episode. I think I'm going to make Da Vinci's machine instead.;-)


----------



## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

That's one is pretty sweet too. I think it was mentioned on a TV show on the Discovery Channel a few years ago. I think it was called "Doing DaVinci" or something like that. It was a sweet show, but I think there were only 2 episodes…


----------



## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

Doing Da Vinci huh …. i think i saw that movie late at night while staying in an Italian hotel. European televison is kinda racy.


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Have you guys ever looked into the Victorian Rose Machines? Talk about a piece of machinery and art all thrown together.


----------



## RVroman (Nov 9, 2012)

Terry, I should have measured it before it went out, but it is a Christmas ornament, I would say the globe was just over 3" in diameter and probably 3 1/2" high. The top finial was about an inch, and the bottom about 2 1/2". There is nothing wrong with the 1220, I have turned on one a few times, and am thinking about getting a mini. That one is on top of the list.

However, seeing some of the pedal/treadle lathes, I wonder if I should go that way, that way I can combine my time on my bike and on the lathe….. Hmmmmm…...


----------



## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

A box from Alexandria, LA showed up in the mail today. Looks like the Rust King has some more work to do…









A DUNLAP #3. Plastic handles, too…









might be the remains of a label?? Or, a price sticker? Front knob needs a new bolt…









Old one lost it's head, and is a might bent. Both handles are in good shape, if you like Bakelite. Iron even has a "model Number": "BL 619.3726" under neath the DUNLAP in a circle logo. even has a " REG. TRADE MARK" stamped there. Frog looks a bit "simple", too









Just a $6 + S&H plane….

Give a few days….


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Bandit, you sure do go for the rust buckets! I suppose that's how you became so talented so quickly…tons of practice!

Are you gonna turn a new plastic knob for that #3? 

You know, it seems like using today's computers, it wouldn't be too hard to 'replicate' some decals…just an evil thought…


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Terry, there are people who make stanley stickers. I remember seeing a set on ebay not too ong ago…... Darn nice ones.


----------



## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

This one didn't "need" a new knob, darn it. I keep looking for those that do, just as an excuse to turn a couple more knobs. The tricky part would be to make TOTES on the lathe. Maybe rig up a jig like Colt had for rifle stocks??? The trim to fit?

As for that Rust Bucket…









cleaned up welll?????


----------



## thedude50 (Aug 13, 2011)

Bandit, the plane thread is the right place to show your planes try to stay on topic brother.


----------



## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

MY MISTAKE!

However, I do like to use a lathe to turn the knobs for these little guys. Even if it is on an old,cheap Craftsman "T" bed lathe. It will squeal now and then, but still keeps a-going after 20+ years.


----------



## carguy460 (Jan 3, 2012)

Hey Terry - you still want some used guitar strings? I completely forgot to check on my stash when I said I would, but I just remembered and it appears that I have 2 sets, so 6 unwound strings total…PM me if you want them and I'll throw in the wound ones if you promise to let me know if you find a use for them!


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Carguy, send me a set, I will make handles and send you a couple back with nice handles…...


----------



## carguy460 (Jan 3, 2012)

Gshepherd - one set is yours if you want, but I have no need for handles for them…I don't even have a lathe! And I had no idea about the "burning" thing with wire until a few days ago! Thanks for the offer, however! PM info and I'll mail you a set…

Next time I change strings on my stable of instruments (4 guitars, 2 bass, 1 fiddle) I'll make sure to let the turners here know…


----------



## derosa (Aug 21, 2010)

Could always make your own if you want the exercise. Pick up an old sewing machine which sell for dirt cheap, mount an old style lathe to it. Those even used rubber belts to hook up the sewing machine making them easy to adapt.


----------



## carguy460 (Jan 3, 2012)

derosa - I've often pondered making a lathe for myself for quite some time. I'm pretty sure I could build a treadle lathe pretty easily, and even easier still a spring pole type…thats a good idea with the sewing machine though…hmmm


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Jason, thanks, but I scored a set of strings this week from a friend..'.nano-wound' whatever that means! 

I'm hoping to make wooden handles for them any day now…will post photos…


----------



## hairy (Sep 23, 2008)

Here's the one I made. Drill a small hole all the way through, then drill a larger hole half way through. Feed the wire in the small hole, pull the knot in the wire up into the large hole. The wire is plain stainless steel, leftover from hanging a suspended ceiling.


----------



## jap (Oct 10, 2012)

nice -hairy


----------



## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

I've also looked into the treadle powered lathe, and a scroll saw that I've got as well, interchangeable using a treadle sewing machine assembly. My only issues are space at this point, and I'd have to find one with out a sewing machine, or with one that doesn't work at all. I'd feel bad tearing apart a working one… I like them too much.


----------



## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

While I would love a lathe with bigger swing than my humble little Central Machinery #34706 (Jet JWL1236 clone) , I must admit that the same said lathe has done everything I have asked it to without a single complaint. I would like to add some upgraded tool rests, but then again, I would do the same to a Jet as well…

All in all, I must say I am blessed with what I have, and am happy to just be able to turn when I want to..


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

So, no problems with the pulleys on your machine? I was looking at some reviews the other day on that machine, and that was the recurring issue. Still not sure which way I want to go. Now, I am looking at midi size lathes. I am all over the place. : )


----------



## GMatheson (Apr 9, 2010)

I have a box full of rough turned bowls that I turned about two years ago. I have a oneway talon chuck but the jaws weren't the right size to hold the bowls so I could true up the bottoms so I made a new set. 








It seems to work pretty good so far


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

GM, very nice on the Talons…...


----------



## 228861 (Feb 23, 2009)

REO-I just went down to look at the drive motor and it is a .50 hp at 1630/1360 rpm ac drive motor. I had a real knowledgeable guy that works on industrial stuff set this lathe up. I have no idea how it all works but it is a great set up. It will crawl so slow that its hard to see it move, up to a much faster speed of which i don't know what it is . It's nice when you are moving right along on the easy stuff and then slow it down to a crawl on the more difficult cuts.


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Very impressive wooden jaws there, GM! Please let me know when you are ready for internet orders…


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Well, here's what I did with the guitar string my bud gave me…









...handles are turned from black walnut…brass ferrules from Lee Valley…the brass insert at the butt end holds a bit of the string by friction only so I can easily change wires as they wear out. Oh yeah, the brass inserts are just the 'female' half of some cheap saw nuts from McMaster Carr.

And the huge gouge…..mmmmmmm…...me like!


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Nice Terry. A new way to make music with a guitar strings.


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Looks like Woodcraft has the mini Rikon 1216 for $229 on black friday sale. I am just unsure what I "need" in a lathe. Typically I am not a fan of "bench top" type tools, but what I think I want to learn to turn, or turn first, all seems to be small stuff. Chisel handles, maybe a mallet or six, small stuff. I really dont have room for a big lathe, which is also an obstacle right now. Seems like a good deal based on normal selling price. If I like turning, or need more machine, I suppose I could upgrade. I know there a people who keep two bandsaws. A small for curves, and then a larger. Do small lathes have a purpose, when/if a larger one shows up? I feel pretty ridiculous about all the questions, because obviously, I have NO CLUE what I am doing…

If I decide to brave the Friday crowds, I may see if they have any left, and also inquire if the NOVA lathe that is currently on sale will ever be offered at the $900 price it was recently. I think if I go full size, that is the one that catches my eye the most.


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Terry, looking pretty sweet there…. Those ferrels from LV are not to bad are they. 
Here is a quick fix of a lathe project I posted a day ago…

Scotty, check youtube videos on Carl Jacobson, He has a bench top lathe and does great work on it. It is a Delta.
2 lathes many guys have the my uncle has 4 of them….. You could use the smaller one for smaller projects and get a bigger on later….


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Oh…... tomorrow be prepared to see a kick a$$ Stave vessel ….... It was a lot of fun actually to make and sure beats buying the bigger hunks of wood.


----------



## RVroman (Nov 9, 2012)

GShepard, NICE work! Is that a maple burl?


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

RV, It is Amboyna Burl, for the life of me I could not remember what it was then it hit me….. Tough sometimes to turn wants to tear out and catch….


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

*GS*, awesome…bowl? I'm not sure what it is except lovely! Oh my the Amboyna Burl…I bet there was a ton of gap filling and sanding to finish that one…would love to see the joinery,too.

I'd also love to see MORE completed turnings here…please…more eye candy!

Poor *Shane*, I feel your troubles…The decisions are completely overwhelming, and I'm NOT sure this forum will help!  Everyone has great advice, but different wants, space, and credit card limits!

Bud, buy small for starters…mine only has 12×20" of workimg room and is table mounted. Jet wanted to sell me a set of legs for $200, but I built a sturdy tank from pine and mdf for $40, and spent the rest on chucks and chisels.

Sounds like you wanna start off turning small stuff like me…get a small lathe. $400-700. About 3/4 hp. Spend the rest of you budget on a set of Nova chucks and 2 or 3 jaws that fit the chuck, a replacement drive spur ($20), and a tail mounted drill chuck ($25). And chisels. I've been sharpening my vintage craftsman chisels one by one…and they are far superior for certain tasks over the expensive carbide tips.

Hey, if you find you don't like a bench top lathe, sell it to Don next year…he sure needs a new lathe!


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

I am going to go to WC on Friday to see if they have the little Rikon 1216VS, if they do, I will jump on it and a couple accessories. I just need to learn, and see if it is for me. Thanks for all the input guys.


----------



## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Some WC stores have different classes on turning, scroll work, etc.

Maybe ask your WC store Shane and see if they have a turner class or something.


----------



## thedude50 (Aug 13, 2011)

Gsheppard , Is that your rendition of the Holly Grail? It is beautiful


----------



## thedude50 (Aug 13, 2011)

Shane, I recommend you go midi sized. That will let you do chair spindles and table legs as well as it will do small stuff well too. I think something equivalent to the jet jwl1236. This is a great little lather it has served me very well for many years and it never complains when I put it to work on projects big and small. It was not a ton of money and every major manufacture has one that competes with this model. This class is perfect for a beginner who does not yet know all the things he will turn.

One of my Favorite turning projects is spindle lamps. And another is chess sets I have turned several sets and they are a blast. One day Al will send me that Chestnut he promised and I will have a black walnut and chestnut chess set in a large sized turning. Should be a blast to turn My favorite piece to turn is the king then the queen and the castle.

My next project will be the Cocobolo totes for my SW chisel set. I think I will copy the Lie Nielsen tote for the chisel design. I will use Ca glue for the finish as the high luster and strength of the finish is hard to beat.


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Dude, funny you mentioned Holy Grail cause that is correct. In a college course I did a big report on Knights Templer….

Shane, I looked at that Rikon and I am now seriously looking at one as well…. For that kind of money you can not go wrong. Get a small chuck, a extra belt for the lathe, the small 3 piece set of easy wood tools. If you can swing it get another small chuck with the tailstock adapter….Drill chuck… They have a good price on the slimline kits also, normal 31.50 friday 19.99…..... Not a darn thing wrong with that lathe…... smokin price… heck you spend 100 or so bucks on a piece of crap off CL…. You may have to fine tune it a bit sand the tool rest a bit, under the banjo….....


----------



## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Looks like the Harbor Freight is the same as the Rikon with different
paint.

HF is 199.99, the Rikon is 351.49 on Amazon and it's 70-050VS

I dunno.


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Rikon will be $229 @ WC Friday. With my luck, now that I have made up my mind, they will be sold out by the time I get there. I may send the old lady, they are hard core shoppers, out all night type of insanity. I would hate for shopping and have it cut into my football and turkey leftover time…plus I am not sure where I come down on the similar looking products manufactured under different names. I personally doubt they are "the same", not that I have anything against that HF lathe, heck it could be plan B or C. Something else to consider.


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Rikon is 229.00 on Friday---

Bed swing lowest speed

rikon 16" 300

HF only 10" 750 Plus HF model has a 1mt and a 2mt for head and tail stock…. Rikon at least keeps it the same 1mt…. They are not the same at all…... Rikon handsdown winner IMOP


----------



## Schwieb (Dec 3, 2008)

There is simply now doubt in my mind I would want a fully tricked out Robust American Beauty Lathe. It really is a beauty to work on and a fine, well made American machine.


----------



## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Thanks for clearing that up GShep.


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Called the local WC. Open @ 9am, have 7 of the little Rikons. They have had a lot of calls and questions about them. Probably go quickly….maybe it aint meant to be? He was unsure (WTF?) If once they are, if they could be ordered in at that price…


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Shane, how about a call in order credit card in hand ready….

Wah, your welcome…..

Dr. Ken, The Robust does look to be the cat's meow….


----------



## OnlyJustME (Nov 22, 2011)

Will it be that price on their website friday?? maybe could do and online order?


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

I'm jealous of you guys living in the big city…

No way to run over to WC or ANY decent store out here in the sticks! Yesterday, I opened my new Nove 75mm jaws hoping to chuck up some mallet heads on the lathe and drill 'em for the handle tenons…nope…75mm jaws only open to 68mm according to my eyes. bummer…back to the drill press game…

I'm seriously thinking of making a set of jaws today using GMatheson's photo as inspiration…3/4" melamine perhaps?


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

*Shane*, bud, get up early tomorrow morning and get to the store when they open!


----------



## GMatheson (Apr 9, 2010)

Terry. You probably don't need to go all the way up to 3/4" unless you are making some big jaws. I used 1/2" ply for mine and it seems pretty solid. If I was to make a smaller set of jaws I would probably just use 1/4" MDF but stick with 1/2" for the grippy part


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

GM, thanks for the tip because I'm sure I will build a set of jaws soon…I mostly thought of 3/4" since that's what I have in the shop.

But, today I found an easier way…I was trying to bore a 1" hole 3" deep into the butt end of some pretty reddish wood (no names), but don't have an expanding chuck to reach that large. So, what does the book say to do in the first place?

Simply glue a block of wood on the pretty stuff, and turn a tenon that WILL fit in one of my chucks. Hello! Where was my brain?  Anyhow…wood in clamps now…must remember glue chucks, glue chucks…

But…for grabbing the outer rim of a finished bowl…I also noticed somewhere on the www where a turner had purchased a set of Nova 100mm jaws and used that extra set of holes to mount shop made jaws. Another option?


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Since I am not the type of guy to go out into the madness, I just ordered the Rikon on line. Since I live in KCMO, and the store is KS, they didn't charge me sales tax, made the $19.99 shipping the same cost as if I would have had to pax tax. So, I am happy camper. Got a few more little things so I could also use the $10 off $25 purchase. I am such a cheap skate. Now I need to figure out what the heck I am doing. Be prepared for a lot of noobie questions. Thanks for all the input guys, I think I will be happy with this little one for a while, and the $229 price seemed good, so we will see. I cant wait to get all my vintage chisels some new handles. Oh the joy!


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Shane is that the same on on Amazon…. for 229….. I just check woodcraft and you can buy them on-line right now for the 229 price…. Nice job WC…..


----------



## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

U da man Shane, congrats on your Rikon lathe.


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Yeah, I think the same one is on Amazon, looks like it says seller is WC, and the $19.99 shipping still applies.

Now I need to get some turning tools, gouges and such. Been looking on ebay, anything to look out for good or bad?


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Well, if you start with traditional lathe tools you will need to buy sharpening gear….. I go with a

Easy Wood, ci roughing , finisher, detailer and hollower…. saves you from buying a wolverine jig and other sharpening stuff….. I get the smaller set vs the larger one for now due to the size of your turnings and lathe…..


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

I do have the WS 3000 with some accessories, and a combo waterstone. So hopefully I am not bad in need of a sharpening system. I am trying to come to grips with the easy tools. They are spendy. But, maybe they are worth it? How the heck would I know? : ) Looks like Rockler has a 3pc set for like $190. I saw a 4pc set of carbide ones (not easy tool brand) on amazon for $209. I have fallen into the rabbet hole…again.


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

I will look at a few, You would need a Wolverine Jig. I assume you have a slow speed grinder? White stone's on it, 120 grit….. Does easy sharp have a setup for lathe tools? I use a slow speed grinder with 120 grit wheels….


----------



## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

http://eddiecastelin.com/products_and_services

Here are some carbide ones as well.


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

I looked at the rockler and if you stay with a set square, rounded, pointed there will be a lot u could do with those… A small parting tool be good, a regular bowl gouge , just because you could save your carbide to do the finer finish work…. is all without wearing them out quicker….

Eddie is a funny guy… I watch a lot of his videos on utube…...


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Wahoo, great link. I am looking at the super turners package. $104 seems reasonable. Lots of cutters, seems like I would want 3 bars, not two, seeing there are 3 different cutters in the package. I am assuming that it is up to me to make the handles? Has anyone ordered or used this guys stuff?


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Congrat's Shane. Welcome to a whole new addiction. Soooooo much fun!!!


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

One thing about good ole Eddie he won't steer you wrong….. Nothing wrong with that set he offers… Replacement cutters a lot cheaper than I have seen elsewhere as well….... Only thing I do not like about the Eddie set is the Triangle cutter….. I like the narrow longer type as rockler and ew have.


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

I am so far in over my head, it aint even funny. I at least have a basic understanding of most ww tools, lathes got me all f'd up. I mean, I think I understand my bandsaw, but is it tuned properly? probably not. But that does not stop me. I see pieces of wood flying across my garage in the near future. The pic above Shep looks like the Rockler version is rounded, and the Eddie version is pointed, but not at such a steep angle. I dont even know what that means? awesome! I buy all this crap, and havent even really been in the shop for weeks, if not months. Once I finished my last project, which was a bed, I haven't been able to make the time for ww, the shop is a disaster. Not even sure if I will be making x-mas gifts this year, as I have no ideas?


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Just get the 3 pc set of Eddie's 109 bucks, work with it. I know it can be overwelming…... Once you just start doing it you will wish you had done it long ago…... Just start out with the basic set, a good chuck and go at it, as you get more fimiliar with it you will know what is needed. Heck after the crap I have had to endure these past two weeks I am just about ready to sell out my moulding biz and work at my garage just woodturning and small novelty stuff.


----------



## RVroman (Nov 9, 2012)

Congratulations Shane, and welcome to the vortex! It is a great ride though. I checked the WC site a bit ago and could order it, plus the 19.99 shipping, but apparently it is way back ordered. I am going to head over there in a few hours and use the website as my back up plan if I am not able to pick one up.


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Congrats, Shane! Go ahead and FORGET all your other porjects in progress…the new lathe will probably addict you and ask for more of your time! Get a comfy pair of boots and a rubber pad to stand on…

Did you buy that Complete Illustrated Guide to Turning? I'm guessing no…bummer. He has a nice chart to show which chisels are recommended for face grain, end grain work.

I'm gussing you won't have any problems sharpening chisels…I sharpen my vintage chisels by hand on the belt sander using 120 grit…no honing at all…straight to the lathe. I use the chisels for rough work, then the expensive carbide for finishing. When I first received the Full-sized EWT's they looked huge! But, now I love the very long length since it provides more control…even though I'm turning small stuff. Just my preference…

Shane, you should probably get a starter set of new HSS chisels for a low price…if you don't wanna go old and rusty…parting tool, skew chisel, 1" gouge should be in that set some others. The carbide cutters are relatively slow workers, but leave a cleaner finish. Although I still have to sand quite a bit to remove my unskilled chisel marks. The long pointy carbide cutter is better than the triangle since it will reach further into the wood without grabbing on its 'edge' if that makes sense?

Good luck, I'm excited for you!


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Terry, I dont have that book yet. Mauricio sent me one, and I have bought another. Read bit and pieces of both of them. Tauntons is having a sale, may look for it. Does it have a dvd too? I already know I am a monkey see, monkey do kind of guys. So visuals are good.


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Shane, not sure about the DVD, but lots of photos in that book!

I've found myself re-reading the book now…all the terms make more sense after a few days of trial and error at the lathe! But, I have to admit, I'm a book person…love books…


----------



## RVroman (Nov 9, 2012)

It's going to be a good Christmas for my 8 year old son. The local WC only had three of the Rikon 1216s in stock, but I was first in line! Can't wait to see his face, it is going to be hard to wait to give it to him.


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Glad you were able to get one, sounds like a pretty good gift for an 8yr old.


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Shane, Just get on utube there is a ton of good turning videos on there. After sharpening just make sure you at least debur the tool….. Nova Soft Jaws are 20 bucks and can be turned as well to fit special apps… The books are not bad and once you start just doing it the light bulb will go on and it will all start to make scense… NO LJ's close to you that could help?

RV, now that is a great x-mas gift for a 8yr old for sure….


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Shane, if you got 2 chucks, I would suggest to be sure you get the tail stock adapter….. Live tailstock adapter…..

First pic is the one you want to get it is a true live tailstock adapter…. The second one will do almo same but it is not live it will not spin and is just used to make sure your completely centered before your switching end for end on certain turnings. Without the adapter you will not be able to use the chuck on the tail, there is a way to do it but no recommended for the faint of heart. First pic you can buy at PSI woodworking for about 30 bucks. The other at WC for 20 bucks….


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Hey, GS, what is that you're using in the headstock from yesterday's photo? A drill chuck? Just trying to learn…Nice action shot BTW…

and why turn between 2 chucks? accuracy? small diameter pieces? I gotta know more!


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Terry, that shot is from Rockler, that is a drill chuck…... The 2 chuck system is great when you get into doing turned vases with lids….. Which I need to get posted of one I did big one and also a small one that is only 3 1/2 inches tall 2inches wide. both have lids on them…. On larger pieces it is more stable as well as you can already imagine. I figure if you have 2 chucks it sure is a nice addition and gives you some more options. I do not use it for everything I turn but when I do it sure is a lifesaver and your right on the money if you need to switch end for end…. Next time I use mine I will take some pics and I will do more of that since Shane is getting into it and we can show all the different options and why…. Now if you turned a small enough tenon you could use the drill chuck as well if in a pinch…

I had my Uncle who has for over 20 years experience teach me in 6 days a lot of stuff watchin and doing and that was awesome, this past summer he was here for 5 days and that is when I got into doing Staved Vases with lids and he try to explain stuff over the phone before but as far as I could tell he was talkin about the Millinium Falcon overdrive hyperdrive lightspeed module… You know what I mean….. For the past 5 years he spend 5-7 days a year and it was total playtime on the lathe….. Makin jigs, and shavings galore…. It was like going to Nascar races you go for the crashes, well same with watchin my Uncle with his Pony tail down to his waist, you just know any minute something could happen so you best pay attention and a few times a close call just to keep you alert…. Fun times to be had for sure…..


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Been watching Capneddie videos on you tube, I think I am a fan. This is the same eddie as the web site linked above?

He makes a good point on the oneway stronghold chuck, being able to adapt from one small lathe to a larger lathe. But for about $300, that is some serious cash. It is more than I spent on my little lathe! But, I know all the add ons are where the cash is at. And I only want to cry once, and get stuff I can grow with, if need be. So….how often does stuff come flying off the lathe?


----------



## OnlyJustME (Nov 22, 2011)

Yes it is the same CapnEddie.

I've only been turning for a few months now and have had 2 maybe 3 projects fly off the lathe. Only one did some damage to me on my arm. Scraped some skin off. nothing serious just a well remembered lesson. lol


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

GS, thanks for the tips! I plan to make some 3" diameter 'boxes' with lids very soon..probably loose fitting lids at first, but I can use all the knowledge I can find! You are very lucky to have such a great teacher in your Uncle…

Jeez…I sure wish somone with skills had put ME on front of a lathe at the age of 8…that is a lucky youngster! 

Shane, the chucks are pricey, huh? Especially once you add up the cost of the insert, the chuck body, and a set of jaws to fit the chuck…cannot use any of those 3 parts by themselves either…then another set of jaws…then…Well, I think the term money pit has already been used to describe our loving lathes!

Ain't had a piece of wood fly off the lathe…yet…still a'waiting, though…


----------



## mrg (Mar 10, 2010)

I got into turning a several months back and started with a loaner lathe. I bought a Nova chuck with 3 sets of jaws at Woodcraft for $200. They have a couple of different setups on sale now. I was going to go with the Woodriver and the owner at Woodcraft steered me away from it, said the Nova was the better buy and just change the insert when I went to buy my lathe. Funny thing is two weeks later I ordered a Nova DVR which should be in Monay or Tuesday. I went with a bigger lathe to grow into and spend the money once. My wife is the one that wanted to turn and found we both have fun doing it. So it is a hobby we can share,


----------



## bigbullets (Oct 4, 2012)

i just bought the Nova 1624-44 and i love it. It doesnt have a variable speed but no big deal, I will upgrade in a few years to a Dvr motor head!!


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Mrg, are you going to use the 110 or 220 option on your DVR…. If 220 get on the website and read up on it a bit, pretty simple and they may have changed some since I got mine some time ago…. You will be happy with it…. Nova chucks are very well made….. I do however suggest looking at the Cole Jaws both by Nova and OneWay…... There is a difference in the two but I do prefer the OneWay over the Nova….


----------



## mrg (Mar 10, 2010)

Bigbullets happy turning, I heard good things about that model.

Gshepard, I am going to set it up and use 110 till I reconfigure my shop layout. I checked the manual and it looks like a jumper pin being moved and the changing of the plug. 220 boosts the motor to 2 hp from 1.5 hp at 110 volts. I am building the bench for it tomorrow so when I pick it up next Saturday I can just set her up. The bench is going to be a modified version of the plans they have. Basically it will be a mini version of my workbench. Do you have it weighed down with sand? If so how may pounds? The plans have a shelf that holds I think 120 pounds of sand.

The chuck I bought came with the cole jaws, I haven't used them yet.


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

I see Rockler has a 6pc Sorby turning set on sale today…I think it is marked down about $100 to around $175. I assume I need additional tools on top of the carbide ones I am also looking at? This is the money pit….what have you guys drug me into? : )


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Shane, the Sorby set is a good one, with that and the carbides you should be set….. on tools, a small chuck, Soft Jaws, drill chuck, leave it at that for now and go at it. You will later depending on what you turn will tell you what you may want to add….. Your set now with a ton of stuff you can do….. Great part is you take care of your tools they will love you long long time…. You got a killer deal on your lathe….. The money pit is not going to be much deeper for you at all… Budda shows 18 levels of hell, I say your at 4 right now…. Feel Better….

MRG, When I got my Nova DVR, I also bought another extention and then got the stand for it. I also got the outboard setup which is really nice option.That added a lot of weight on it's own. No sandbags yet, Later today when I make a pic of the Mallet being made you will see how it is set up. I do run mine at 220v.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Shane, I've had the thought of upgrading my lather since about 2 days after i got mine. I ways said someday, but so far mine has done what I've needed. For some reason your post has started an itch. I need more restraint!! I almost place the order at WC yesterday. My craftsman is fine, *My craftsman is fine*, My craftsman is fine, *My craftsman is fine*, My craftsman is fine.


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Don, that Rikon is still on sale for 229.00 pretty damn good price…. My craftsman is fine but my new Rikon is BETTER….....


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Drink the Kool Aid Don, drink it…


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

They are on sale till 12/24 back ordered though on the website, so next week I will pull the trigger on on cause a smaller lathe would be nice to have and I already have a small chuck that will fit on it and now I can justify getting some smaller carbide lathe tools like Shane got. I've been good this year well at least most of the year.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

I have dibs on Don's Craftsman lathe…


----------



## NedB (Aug 21, 2008)

Robust American Beauty. Hands down.

Here I am visiting with Bill Grumbine when he first got his!


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

I will not disagree on that at all, I look at the website at least once a week…... The American Beauty from what I have read and seen is one well built, thought out, lathe….. I would not turn my back on a Oneway neither. If money was not a factor I go with the American Beauty in a heart beat. In the pic I do see a Oneway steady rest though and he is holding some Thompson steel I bet…...


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Hey…what do you guys use for a finish on the lathe? And what speed do you recommend?

I've been trying HUT Crystal Clear, I think is the brand name…but it seems to remain tacky for days. Am I putting it on too thick? Not buffing enough off? Love the glossy finish of the shellac and wax, though.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Terry, I had great results just rubbing the finished mallet I did recently with shavings to get a good luster / smoother and soft finish. Then added Minwax Antique Oil to that (two coats), buff, and done…


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty, any idea what's in that? And how much color does it give the wood? Darken it much?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

It's an oil / varnish blend, I believe. Very little darkening. Some, but hardly. Brought out the grain of the hickory, that's about it.


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

So Smitty, The Mallet you made is Hickory then?


> ?


 OOOOOP's…..........


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Yeah, G, that's a poorly kept secret…  Hope the recipient likes it, it'll be mailed tomorrow.

Anxious to post some pics of several handsaws picked at lunch today, one in particular has a very ornate handle (that needs some serious refurb) I've not seen before. Weird hang angle, too. But it has to wait 'til later, and it'll go on Don's saw forum.


----------



## thedude50 (Aug 13, 2011)

Shane I like Benjamen's best tools from woodcraft they aren't spendy and they hold their edge a long time. I also have several Robert Sorby tools and several Robert Larson tools I am not into the carbide cutters you have a work sharp 3000 and wont need a wolverine jig to grind an edge on your tools. A big plus is you can get most of a set for the pri9ce of 2 easy wood tools and they both cut wood fine.


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Yeah, I got the Sorby set of 6 in the mail the other day. I will probably order that carbide set from from capneddie soon. The Sorbys are pretty nice looking, long as hell. But, here is the thing….i dont have a lathe. When I ordered it on t giving, they said it was in stock. Obviously it is not. The havent contacted/emailed to say when/if it might show up. Serves me right for being too lazy to go to the store early on black Friday. So no turning for me yet : (

Guess that means no more noobie questions for me till I get the dang thing. I am anxious.


----------



## thedude50 (Aug 13, 2011)

Well bro freight slows to a crawl this time of year so hang in there it will get to you soon


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Shane, that sucks big time…. Dude is right though…... I really wanted to know what you thought of the Lathe… They are on sale till the 24th which is cool…..

Terry, when your using the stuff like Crystal Hut, I would expect it is a burnish finish so crank that lathe up 3,000 rpms if not more and buff it hard…... If it is sticky your not getting it buffed in enough and not building enough heat…. I use Milands and it is the same way….


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Shane, that sucks, bud…hope UPS arrives soon! 6 Sorbys????? Wow! Must post photo! 

Thanks, GS, but 3,000 rpm…really? yikes! I figured I wasn't getting enough residual rubbed off…will try again today. And gonna get some shellawax paste with my next online order…I like pastes anyway…

I nearly finished my first lidded 'box' last night…photos today if I can get back to it…


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

And…speking of chisels…last night I honed my roughing gouge to 8000 grit…removing the burr as I progressed through the finer grits. WOW! What a difference from just grinding the bevel quickly on the belt sander!

Hello!


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Terry, it is a good idea to have a bunch of wooden dowels, wet dry sandpaper and deburr that way as well…. do you double some of your lathe tools?


----------



## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

I like the dowel idea. Thanks Shep.

I use a piece of leather with green honing compound and hone 
when the tools need it.


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Oh forgot to add--- you can make them yourself if you want…... Also Sandflex, you can get at WC get the fine grit, a few swipes on HSS steel will do wonders….. When you sharpen HSS and deburr it, there is a razor sharp edge of course but it is Mico thin, knocking it down will actually help it stay sharper longer…. I grind regular HSS, M2,M3 and BN, grades of steel for moulders and it is no different than lathe tools….. The Mico edge I call it will curl some…. Try it….. I have had some extensive training on profile grinding by several professional grinders, stuff they do not teach you in the books and it does work…. I did some [email protected] BK Pine, I could go 8,000 l.f. before I needed to sharpen…. Even with clean lumber that is a lot for HSS…. Dull knives on softwood=tearout….. It came out perfect…. If you could Magnify it by 20x you see what I mean…. a before and after look…

If you use some of the carbide cutters you can use those small stones with the handle to gently sharpen them up some….... Like you would use on router bits…...Extending the life of them…..

Don't mean you bore you guys but try it once, even on regular chisels….


----------



## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

It's far from boring my friend.


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Yeah, I use dowels wrapped with fine grit sandpaper for deburring. honed the roughing gouge again today just to 4000 grit, and liked it better, I think. I got some 2 foot long end-grain maple shavings after that! I'm still sharpening free hand, but got a Wolverine jig coming to help!

GS, what do you mean, double some of my lathe tools? Use 'regular' chisels? nope.


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Terry, Some guys will put a double bevel when grinding gouges for example…. A relief cut….. You will like the Wolverine Jig.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Shep - would you consider shaping an iron for a wooden molder I have that needs one?


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Kunk, Shep, and all…thanks for sharing the knowledge, it is appreciated.

How do you like the oneway strong chuck? It sounds like a good investment.


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Smitty, I think I could do it on the Rondomat 960c I own….. I have some moulders myelf I will check to see if I can secure it on the grinder, I might have to make a jig but I see no reason why it can not be done. I have a killer set of Routledge moulders I will see if I can do it…. I know I would have to make a quick template of the profile which is easy enough….. I have been thinking anyway of doing some serious sharpening on handplane moulders and also the stanley type…. Grinding angle 20 deg or 25 deg?????


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Shep, seriously, if you're interested I'll mail you the plane. It's nothing special but would be with a fellow LJ's expertise applied. Will send a PM.


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Heck Smitty, the wheels are already turning, I am positive I can do it, once I secure the cutter on the arbor straight and true, profile I need a template, easy enough to do by hand. Finish up with the CBN wheel I have and it should be good as new…... I will take a pic of a moulder I have before and after I sharpen it and have that done tomorrow… or even tonight… ya got my blood going…. If i get this done then I would be able to sharpen the 45's as such the same darn way…... Doing it by hand is ok but lots of room for error…..


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Shane the OneWay Stronghold chucks are the cats meow….... Top quality and will last a lifetime if you take care of them….. You can not go wrong with Oneway or Nova brand in my opinion…... For your size lathe look at the Talon chucks it is smaller but top notch….

Smitty, I got the LN link and 25 deg it is…. Without a doubt I know I can get it done…..


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

All I can say is WOW….................DrawTite Hitch and never leave home without it…....


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Thanks for all the tips, guys!

GS, yes, I guess I do sharpen my gouges with a secondary bevel like the photo you posted. Can't wait to secure the Wolverine in front of my Baldor slow speed grinder! Still, I'm mostly using ths HSS tools for roughing…then the carbide tips for final shaping…and tons more sanding than I expected!

^Love that 2436 absolutely too much!


----------



## stan3443 (Mar 3, 2012)

oh if money was no problim…........can always dream and hope for powerball


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Stan, I hear ya…... More Lathe than I will ever need that is for sure….. Hey If I win Powerball I will buy you one and if you win then you can buy me one… Now our chances just improved…......


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

+1 for the power ball lathe swap! Please add my name to that list…if I win, I'll buy all 3 of us a 2436!

Now everyone's chances are 3 times higher!


----------



## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

I'd join in on that, except that it wouldn't increase the chances at all, since I don't buy lotto tickets lol


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Leave it to Mos to break the Dream…....


----------



## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

I've bought 2 tickets in my lifetime lol


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

WOW, yesterday I had my FIRST and SECOND pieces of wood fly off the lathe!!! Been waiting for it to happen…The first time, the tip of my carbide chisel brushed against the finger tips of my left hand…3 nice straight cuts. Didn't even feel a thing! 

Both instances were when the piece was being held by spigot jaws…and I was attempting to remove the extra spigot from the base. Gotta use slow speeds for that process I assume…using my square carbide tip to reduce the wood in step fashion…

Anyhow, here's my first attempt at a box…









It's about 6" tall and 3" diameter…turned from Black Walnut. The finish is only Orange oil and wax from the big box store. Hollowing out the 4" deep recess was much, much harder than I anticipated!


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

The good news is, the box looks nice.

Be careful out there Terry, do you wear one of those face shields?


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Shane, thanks! Did you receive your lathe yet? I bet your chisels are scary sharp by now! 

You know…I've wanted to ask the group about face shields…

I have one that I wear for chainsaw carving, but haven't used it for the lathe yet…Although I have to wear glasses just to see, so that helps a little.

Yesterday, when the pieces jumped off the spinning lathe, they both went right for the concrete floor! Another good reason for my thick rubber work mat, I suppose???


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Terry, first off beautiful looking box….... And you saw first hand of the dreaded shop floor dance…..

When you hollowed out the box did you use a forster bit????? I do to get more out quicker then clean it up with the scraper….... Today without fail I will take pics of the Staved Vase and soon you will be into that and god knows where else now….. Addicting as heck I know…..


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

They just emailed me that has shipped. Kinda excited. I have been too busy to mess w/the chisels yet. I got a lot to learn….


----------



## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

Terry, it seems like you must have enough shavings on the floor to provide enough bedding for an army of gerbils. Is Shep providing you with all the lumber? I know hes got a vested interest in those lil guys.


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Shane, at least you finally got some good news, just be darn sure you look at your box being delivered in case you see some damage…. Get it hooked up and turned on….. Tell us what you think of it….. I know you will enjoy it…..... I learn more and more everytime I turn so be easy on yourself…..


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Remember guys Walnut shavings is bad stuff so is Santos Mahogany and I am sure a few others….

Stef, I have moved up to the Guinea Pigs…. They have more Fluff to them….


----------



## mrg (Mar 10, 2010)

Terry nice box.

Shane good was going to ask if you got the lathe yet.

Got mine Saturday, started the bench on Friday. Picked the lathe up on Saturday bright and early. Went to a turning class and home. Finished the bench Sunday, unpacked the lathe and set it up. Sharpened two gouges and tested the lathe. It's nice but haven't had time all week to play.

Saturday got to turn on a Oneway, man that is a beast. I had the tool rest get caught under the spindle and scared the heck out of me. Lucky was using a stebcenter so the it just made a loud screeching noise.

Can't wait to use it this weekend.


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Here ya go Terry, A Stave lidded Vase…. 14 inches tall….. When I do another one like this I will take a few more pics of the turning jig I used to glue it together and started it on the lathe which by the way flew off the lathe at 1200 rpm and broke a hole in some birch ply…. I learned to use a metal face plate vs a glue block after that scare….....


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

That's awesome, Shep! Looks like many, many hours of labor…just guessing maple, african blackwood, and mahogany or cherry or sapele? Awesome! I can't wait to see your jig…although that sort of art is WAY over my head!

Had another piece come off tha lathe last night while trying to remove the extra spigot from the base…at only 300 rpm…using a jam chuck. My bases aren't perfectly square with the axis of rotation…so chisels tend to catch on that end grain. Had to break out the dremel to remove the spigot…very frustrated…but the lil vase came out nice, so I have to count my blessings…

I also bought another chuck last night…Technatool SuperNova2…so all my jaws are compatible. Also grabbed a set of those soft jaws and 100mm jaws which have the extra set of holes in them for making my own wooden jaws. I can see box making in my future…like the idea of turning between two chucks…


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Terry, I find out on end grain on the edge make a small camfer cut every so often to keep from tearing, it seems to work for me…... SuperNova2 are damn good chucks,,,,,,,,


----------



## hairy (Sep 23, 2008)

I haven't turned between 2 chucks. I will use 2 chucks when I want to reverse a piece on the lathe. This ensures that it goes on centered, saves some time,certainly can be done without it,


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Thanks, Shep, I think I know what you mean…

I'm also gonna slide the tail stock up against today's spigot removal to help keep the wood on the machine longer…will try to post a few small vases later…


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

hairy…IF I had that Robust lathe…all I would do is sit and stare at it! Lovely!

AND I bet the spindles line up with much, much closer tolerances than my tabletop lathe…Hate to admit it, but the Jet has some play in the tailstock.


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Yes Terry I agree, our Buddy Hairy there does have a sweet Lathe…..

Hairy, Have you ever owned a OneWay? There is no doubt the Robust is a top of the line lathe. When it was all said and done in your mind to get the Robust what was your reasons….


----------



## hairy (Sep 23, 2008)

I bought my first lathe 4 years ago, Jet 1220vs. I read a lot of good things about it, I knew going in I could outgrow it if I got hooked. I had never used a lathe before that, I was hooked. I bought the Sweet 16 about 1 and 1/2 years later. I checked out every lathe before buying this. It got down to this or a Stubby.
I really thought about what features I wanted in a lathe and what I want to do, plus I had to get it down the steps to a small basement.This gave me the most options and a small footprint. I still use the Jet.


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Hairy, Sweet Lookin shop there….... The Jet is a good lathe and I think it is smart to start out small and see if it is something you really enjoy….. Before throwing down money on a bigger Lathe….. Honestly, there are a lot of pretty good lathes out there….. I know I am real hungry on getting either a OneWay or a Robust and get really serious on the Lathe cause the more I do the more I want…... I am sure we can all relate to that….


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Sweet shop Hairy, looks a good place to spend the day. I couldn't tell you the last time I got to spend the whole day in the shop making dust. Probably been 3 or 4 months : ( Makes me kind of cranky just thinking about it.


----------



## SASmith (Mar 22, 2010)

terryR, I remember my first piece that flew off the lathe. It was a 15" chevron bowl.








I was nearly done with it, just doing some sanding when I got too heavy handed and off it came. It flew about 5 feet and hit the concrete then the wall. I was amazed it only dented the rim.

I have since stopped using a piece of paper between the bowl and the sacrificial board that I mount to the face plate. I now just glue the block to the bowl directly and part it off when I am done.


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Scott, beautiful looking Bowl….....One heck of a Glue up Job… I have never done the paper between but learned the hard way even glueing a block is not good enough as well if you have anyting with some length to it….. Live and learn…..

We should start a thread on just lathe tip's with pictures and detailed instructions….. I know there are some guys out there who know some retty cool stuff and are very well seasoned 0n the lathe…...


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Ok, the lathe arrived today. So that is a good thing. Box is a little beat up, imagine that. Bad news it will probably be a while before I can get it out, turn it on, and more than likey put a projectile through the garage window. Ah, something to look forward to. Plus, I will really be letting the questions fly. So thanks in advance


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Shane, I would at least get it opened in case there is any hidden damage….... But considering it is x-mas you could use the excuse of it was a gift so it was not opened till then…..


----------



## hairy (Sep 23, 2008)

Capneddie has a real good video on glueblocks.


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

I watched the glueblocks video and Capt Eddie is sure fun to watch. He at least keeps you interested vs some of these guys who have the Enthusiasm of a Q-Tip…..........


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Capneddie is pretty amusing, I am making my way through his video collection. Lots to learn, he seems to know what he is talking about (but how would I know? right? ) Trying to pick up as much as I can.


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Shane, it just take time and practice and just doing it…. Somethings will not make any scense at all until you start doing it then the little light in your head will turn on….. Just takes practice and just doing it….. Lots of good info on the net and good books out there as well….. Sharp Tools a must…. You will chunk pieces off, split them, get a few bad catches not and then…. It happens to us all….. Your confidence will build up and you will get faster and faster like you been doing it all your life if you stick with it…...


----------



## thedude50 (Aug 13, 2011)

Shane I agree if the box is beat look inside do it quick you can wrap it up after you know it survived


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Can anyone here share their Lathe dust collection tips? I hate sanding but on the lathe, its so freaking cool to be able to sand up to 2000 quickly without any effort. I just CANT STAND the dust.

I seem to remember someone hooking a vac hose up to a beer box and using that as a shroud to capture dust. Kind of an ugly rig but better than all the dust. Thanks


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Mauricio, I just stick the collection hose under the piece. I can slide the 4" right in the frame of my old craftsman, but just fasten it under there. If you're using a vac hose, leave the floor piece right on it. It doesn't work great for turning, there is not enough force for bigger chips, but for sanding its perfect.


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Thanks Dan, I'll try that with my shopvac. The dust is mostly what I care about.


----------



## OnlyJustME (Nov 22, 2011)

I basically do the same as Don. Just stick the shop vac hose right under where i'm sanding. works well enough for me.


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

I have an "air cleaner" which is a blower motor in a plywood box, I used to have furnace filters on each side but now I just use it to exhaust dust outside. It helps a lot but dust still manages to get everywhere. I still use a respirator when I'm making a lot of dust. I also keep my dustiest tools like the chop saw and lathe near the garage doors. The shop vac trick at the lathe should help a lot.


----------



## RVroman (Nov 9, 2012)

Hi All,

I have been in the shop about every waking moment outside of work to try and get caught up on several projects, and although I have been following the lathe thread I have not had time to post.

Terry, your box looked great, bummer to hear about your difficulties removing tenons. There are a couple of suggestions I would make. First, and you mentioned you were going to do this, is to use the tail stock as long as you can when taking the tenon off.

Second, only cut towards the head stock. If I had to guess I would say you are cutting as you normally would (pushing the tool into the wood perpendicular to the bed). This puts too much lateral pressure on the wood in the jamb chuck and can make it pop off. By cutting towards the headstock you are forcing the wood into it and reducing the chance of it flying off.

Third, when you make your jamb chuck not only do you want to make sure it is tight, but you want to make it long enough to reach the bottom of the box, hollow form, or whatever you are taking the bottom off of. Basically if it is a 2" diameter box that is 6" deep, make the chuck 6" long. The first 1/2" or so would be 2" in diameter for a tight fit, then the rest of the length would be a little less than 2". This way when you are cutting towards the headstock the box will be supported and you are not putting all that pressure on just the junction of the box and jamb chuck. (I hope that makes sense, I will try to post a picture later).

Shane, glad to hear your lathe arrived! There was a question about chucks some time back. I have turned on Oneways, Novas, and Vicmarcs. I cannot say anything bad about any of them. Personally I have the Nova G3, and the Super Nova2. This is mostly because that is what Woodcraft carries, and I did not know about Craft Supplies USA when I first started turning. They have been great.

One thing to consider when looking at a chuck (as you mentioned being able to move up in lathes) is the size of the chuck and your current lathe. The bigger the chuck the more mass you have spinning, and you do not want to go bigger than you need. Something from any of the companies for a 12" swing would be fine (and nothing against the Oneway, but $300 is a lot for a chuck!). I will never put the super nova2 on that Rikon, it is just too big. I will only use the G3. That said, even on my [Jet] 1642 I could do 95% of what I do with the G3. Although the Super Nova is my primary chuck, I would not be missing much if the G3 was.

Basically a long way of saying, do not go too big for your Rikon, and what you get will be very useful if you ever get a bigger machine. Pick a brand you will be happy with and stick with it, then whatever jaws and such you buy can be used on a bigger chuck by the same manufacturer.

As far as dust collection, I have a jointer hood/plate on the end of a hose from my dust collector. This sits between the ways on my lathe bed nicely and collects most of the dust. I also have a small air filtration system made by Rigid. However, I should probably wear a mask more than I do.


----------



## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

I would like someday to add some new stuff to my old Craftsman "T" bed lathe. Problem? #1 MT , for one thing. Seems to be an odd-ball size. I think Pennstate has some, not sure. Basically, I turn between centers now, like table legs, and a random plane knob. I do have a face plate, of sorts. Found one in the plumbing section at Lowes. I spun it on to the spindle, set up to file the face true, and the outer edge. It does have four screw holes to mount things. Cost? back then 90s, it was about $3, I think.


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

RV, thanks for the tips! Today while removing the extra spigot…I did just what you said…run the tail stock up against the wood for as long as possible. After that, it was smooth sailing! And I'll make my jam chucks longer, too, since they have mostly been an inch or so long sticking into a 4" cavity…sounds stupid now that I say it…

As far as dust while sanding…I use 2 fans. One blows the dust away…the other has an HVAC filter on it and catches lots of the dust while sucking…if that makes sense…

I am pretty sure I've reached the point where I've spent just as much in accessories as I did for the lathe…only took 5 weeks!


----------



## OnlyJustME (Nov 22, 2011)

I bought 2 chisels and spent more than i paid for my lathe. and they were Benjamins Best chisels. lol


----------



## RVroman (Nov 9, 2012)

LOL, the cost of the lathe quickly gets dwarfed by accessories. This even goes for the bigger lathes since we tend to want even more accessories then! 

Robert


----------



## beevis (Jul 30, 2010)

here is one of my two lathes:









i also have a mid 50s delta model 1460 that gets a lot more use.
i love them both the same…


----------



## OnlyJustME (Nov 22, 2011)

what a beaut!


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Oh my…that is an impressive looking machine!


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Now we are seein the big guns come out…... Awesome Lathe, it just speaks Majestic to me…... Maybe Shane can get his up and we can do a side by side…...Wow did I just leave the door open????


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

I think I am going to come up short Shep. But they keep telling me it is all in the motion?


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Now that Lathe has a lot more going for it other than just the size….. Look how the bedways move…. Ya need the extra length it is there and when you don't it can be gone…. Do I see 2 Head stocks?????


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

beevis…now THAT is a dream lathe! The friggin center piece of any shop!

Who is the maker?


----------



## hairy (Sep 23, 2008)

You could hollow out a phone pole on that big lathe.


----------



## hairy (Sep 23, 2008)

It looks like a cross slide. I'd love to have one on my lathe. Check out this video


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Here are a few pencil holders I've been working on this week, and another lidded box. I know so many folks that collect feathers, that I intend to sell these as 'Feather Vases/Pencil Holders' this spring when the season starts back up.

oh…note the new 71 for scale. 










From L to R the woods are: cherry, black walnut, maple burl, african mahogany glued to wenge, and butternut. All are finished with that orange oil stuff except ms. cherry who got Hut crystal polish. I like the oil finish better…

Also note how the tail stock is holding the workpiece tightly against the jam chuck below while I remove that darned spigot from the base…NO shop floor dances using this method…Also, not much room to work…jeez…Hey, is there a better tail attachment to perform this task?










I'd love to see other stuff you guys are turning…


----------



## hairy (Sep 23, 2008)

It's always good to use tailstock support as long as possible. Sharp tools, small bites. I would wrap the fit in the jamchuck with blue masking tape as insurance.

You could use a MT2 extension to get a little more room. http://www.amazon.com/SL2-2-Morse-Taper-Extension-Socket/dp/B00095VUAK/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1354997395&sr=1-1&keywords=morse+taper+extension

You could do something like this. 



 I have several different tips that I made for the live center. It's no big deal when you cut into your tailstock center when you do it like this.


----------



## jap (Oct 10, 2012)

nice boxes Terry


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

awesome video, hairy! Thanks! That looks like a good tool to make…


----------



## RVroman (Nov 9, 2012)

Terry, that looks like a 60 degree revolving cone center. On some jets you can take that off and will find a smaller center underneath.


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Nice work Terry.

Note the new 71 for scale….yeah, right I almost missed that brand new plane in front of the turnings. They all look great, you are becoming prolific like Don and handplane restorations.


----------



## thedude50 (Aug 13, 2011)

Terry I have and love the 71 its just like yours and gets used way more than I though it would when i got it I like the LN a lot more than the 6 vintage 71s I have but i they are better looking. I am curious how your hallowing out the pencil holders are you running in a forstner bit on the lathe I was thinking of getting a drill chuck for my lathe is that how your doing it or are you hogging it out with a gouge or something else I have avoided small holes like that afraid they would blow up but they would make a good christmas gift and I have plenty of blanks to do some. Let me know how your doing the hols buddy.


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Thanks, guys!

Lance, I drill them out with successfully larger forstner bits…but 1 5/8" is as large as I have…so I use chisels from there.

RV, I'll look again, but I don't think mine comes apart. Now that I've seen the wooden version, I want many! 

Shane, can't wait till you get all set up…


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Terry, this may be totally off the grid and maybe Hairy has done this but I like to use rubber strips I cut from old bicycle tires….. You can put a little more torque on your work piece without damaging it…..


----------



## RVroman (Nov 9, 2012)

Hairy, that video is great, thanks! I really like the idea of the "expanding jamb chuck" and using a wooden cone for that.


----------



## RVroman (Nov 9, 2012)

Just a few pictures to follow up on some of my recent posts…..

To see if there is a second center under yours check to see if the center be turned off, or taken off via an allen screw. On mine there is a hole I can put a small rod through to stop it from spinning and then just turn the cone off.










That reveals a smaller center. Also the point can be removed and there is the ability to thread on a variety of other centers, or wooden centers such as Hairy suggested.










Below is what I was taking about with the longer jamb chuck to help take the pressure off the junction of the chuck and the workpiece when removing the bottom tenon. This is especially useful if you are doing thin walled vessels as it reduces the force piece and risk of cracking it. (this one is tapered at the end because of what it was going into, generally they are not)










It so happens that one of the pieces I needed to finish was an open hollowform, so it make taking pictures for explanation easy. (which is also why it had to be tapered, to fit the bottom between the twists)










Then it is just a matter of riding the bevel and cutting towards the headstock so there is no lateral pressure on the workpiece.










You can get the tenon fairly small and still have good support. This allows you to cut your concave bottom, sand, and do everything else you need to do to it before taking it off completely.










Once you are done it is just a matter of removing the last bit of tenon, and hand any protrusion that may be left.










After that you will ideally have a piece that is complete, and did not bounce across the shop floor! 










Hope that helps make a few of my prior posts a bit more clear.

Robert


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Robert, great post! Your photos are worth a thousand words…My tail center is a cheap one piece cone, but I am excited about making my own wooden jigs to fit over it! I also just purchased an adapter to let me run a chuck in the tail end. I'm hoping to turn a jam chuck for the tail and use it to push my workpiece onto the head's jam chuck…if that makes sense?

Thanks, again, for the great explanation!

Oh, BTW, that's a nice hollow form vessel! Sure looks like a bugger to finish, though!


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Hey Shep, last night I used a small piece of that non-slip shelf liner between my workpiece and the jam chuck…seemed to hold better, like you say. How about double sided tape? Too sticky?


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Terry, ds tape would work…..

Robert, excellent tutitorial there…... Pics are great….. Now you need to do one for the Hollowing part…... Carry ON….


----------



## hairy (Sep 23, 2008)

I have a piece of motorcycle innertube that I use to cover the chuck . I haven't yet tried it for anything else.
I probably couldn't complete a project without d/s tape or blue masking tape.

Sometimes d/s tape holds too good. Think about how you will get your workpiece off before you put it on. DAMHIKT!!


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Terry, how rude of me, I did not comment on your pencil boxes…. I do believe you have found your callin….. You been makin shavins like a mad man….. Nice Job.


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Shep, no way you could hurt my feelings, bud! There's too much activity on all our threads to comment on it all. But, thanks…

I made one of these wooden tail centers yesterday to help with spigot removal…









It's just a piece of oak that covers the stock tail center…unfortunately, I wasn't accurate enough with the construction, so there is a little bit of play. But, it works OK. I'll take more care on the next one to get a tighter fit over the stock center.

No…I don't usually use walnut for jamming…this was just laying nearby and fit!


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Anyone look at the Easy Wood Chuck? It is nice but holy cow 500 bucks nice…....


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Yeah, that's kinda rich for a chuck…

WoodCraft has the SuperNova2 chuck on sale for $199 with a few jaws. Been using mine the past few days…Love It!


----------



## carguy460 (Jan 3, 2012)

I employ a dude named Chuck…he is far from rich…he has wood though, when the blue pills kick in - and he's pretty easy if you have the right pickup lines…Does that qualify as an Easy Wood Chuck?

Yikes, I just scared myself…


----------



## mrg (Mar 10, 2010)

That's funny.


----------



## RVroman (Nov 9, 2012)

Just today I got an e-mail from Craft Supplies about the Easy Chuck. Interesting concept, but a whole lot of money to pay so as not to have to remove screws from the jaws or not use a wrench to loosen and tighten it. I can think of a lot of things to do with the that kind of cash that would probably be a better investment.


----------



## singleken45 (Dec 12, 2012)

Back in the early 70s I bought a Craftsman woodlathe complete with heavily built table from a guy working with me in a machine shop . He was selling everything he had because he was entering seminary school , so I bought his lathe plus a set of good dial verniers & several long guns . Much to my X wifes wishes , I enjoyed playing on the lathe . Then after i started my own carpentry business in 1978 , I met up with an older man who was doing furniture restorations & caning of wicker furniture . He approached me about turning various spindles for old chairs he was restoring . One particular furniture restoration job he was doing required several new matching spindles .It's been so many years now & memory has faded , but I'm thinking the number of spindles on that order was in the 20s . My lathe made me some nice greenbacks .My X was so much against me having that lathe , that she advertise it locally in hopes she could sell it while i was out on some job . But she was unsuccessful & I still have it today - but not her . Anyhow , I've said all this to say Sears did produce quality machinery in the past but not in the present times . Wood lathes can be a lot of fun while turning blocks of wood into nice useful pieces .I've had numerous opportunities to sell my lathe , but won't . God bless, Ken


----------



## thedude50 (Aug 13, 2011)

Well as you guys know I have been seeking bloggers and authors for my website. thisoldworkshop.com. I thought I would post this request in here because I want to find another Blogger author to fill this opening in my staff. This position is a non paying job and has only a few requirements . I prefer English speaking person one who writes well and must be very skilled as a turner. I would like someone with segmented turning experience . If your interested in this position please PM me here on LJ .


----------



## hairy (Sep 23, 2008)

I was at WIA this year, and got a demo from Craig Jackson on his new chuck. All of their stuff is top quality, and you pay for that. It's a nice chuck. Heavier than my Stronghold. It's made threaded for 1" x 8 tpi. My Jet 1220 is that size. There's been lots of talk back and forth about putting a heavy chuck on a smaller lathe.

For $500 I would want more jaws, the adapter to fit my lathe, and a worm chuck that's not yet available for that chuck.

The outer edges of the jaws are rounded. This is to save the skin on your knuckles. Innertube works for me.

I like EWT tools, but this one's too much $ for me. If you're looking for a faceplate, their's is excellent.


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

I watched a video on that chuck, and it looked so simple that even I might be able to use it. On the subject of heavy lathe chucks. While I was watching some of capneddie's youtube videos, he was of the opinion that it was no big deal to spin a large/heavy chuck on a small lathe. He seemed to really like the Oneway Stronghold. Which I kind of liked the idea of being able to switch that chuck to different lathes, if the need arose. But, after reading more, I decided to put the Nova G3 reversible one on my x mas list. Suppose I dont even need the reverse at this time, but went for it anyway. One thing I see about turning (keep in mind I still havent turned anything) is that the stuff is where all the cost is at…geesh. So I figured if I ever switched lathes in the future, I wanted to have the best stuff I could afford in terms of accessories. The Nova 2 with the jaws on sale at woodcrafe was calling to me though. Was just unsure as to the whole weight on a small lathe thing.

I mean really, I will probably just end up making new handles for my vintage chisels, not large complex stuff.


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Shane, just make sure you get the inserts for them…. The G3 is a darn good chuck and the Supernova 2 with the extra jaws is excellent. Good part is when you jump up to a bigger lathe you will still have your chucks. Did you get any faceplates? The Nova tailstock live center kit is pretty good also. Capneddie has a good video on how to clean the chucks when that time comes. The quality of chucks your buying should last a lifetime. As much as I love the diffrent chucks I can not ever see me buying the EW one for 500 bucks though. 300 is enough for the OneWay Stronghold.


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

No faceplates yet Shep, other than maybe a small one that comes with the lathe. So, no extra jaws yet. I did include the 1/2" keyless MT 2 drill chuck and a steb center (whatever that is? : ) ) on another list so we will see what shows up.

Basically, I am a hoarder of all things woodworking. So lathes just fit right in with all the crap that goes along with them…it will never end.


----------



## RVroman (Nov 9, 2012)

You will like the steb center as opposed to the standard 4 point center.


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Wow guys the thread here is getting little activity.

Shane how close are you into getting your lathe up and running…..

Yes the Steb center is a great center and used more often tha than regular 4 point.

Had a nice 3 day weekend with m girls and we are making round pencil cups for several teachers out of A. Mahogany. I will post some pics when we get several more of them done.


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Shep, I am not close to getting it out yet. I have been busy, and have had little shop time. The time i have had, has been spent working on the walnut box from my nightmares. The way my week/life looks now, I will not be able to finish by xmas. : (

My wife's grandfather passed this morning so there will be even more demands for time. I do look forward to learning and asking questions. Mostly look forward to some new chisel handles.


----------



## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

My condolences ShaneA.


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Sorry to hear that Shane. If there is anything we can do to make life easier for you just say the word bro…..


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Thanks fellas, he was 93. A bomber pilot, shot down and POW in WW II. Successful guy, married 60+ yrs. His wife passed about 3yrs ago. The old lady is a bit down, but he had a good run, didn't get cheated like those poor kids in CT. Life….plenty of twists in the road.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Condolences to your family, Shane. It does sound like he had an amazing run. We're losing that generation of heroes way to fast anymore…


----------



## RVroman (Nov 9, 2012)

Sorry to hear that Shane. Sounds like he was an amazing man.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Condolences to your family Shane. We're wishing you the best.


----------



## Fishinbo (Jun 11, 2012)

Beautiful Jet !!!

http://www.sawblade.com


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

I smoothed a cylinder with skew chisel the other day, first time doing it successfully with not catches. Its a milestone for me!


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Sorry to hear it Shane, A big hug for your wife.


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Well guys I have some 8/4 A. Mahogany that is 19 in wide. 8ft board. It has been in the racks for over 5 years now and I am thinking of trying my hand at a large lazy susan platter. Do you think it will be stable enough to turn down all the way or rough it out and let it sit a while?


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Sorry to hear of troubled times, Shane. I will help any way I can….How about a turned walnut Urn with a lid for the ashes? I could try to get it to ya by chrismas…or cherry…or bubinga…anything I have 4" thick…

Shep, you mean African Mahogany? Sapele? If it's been in the shop 5 years, cut it already! Or send it to me! I turned some sapele last month…brittle wood…tends to chip out and tear without scary sharp tools. But, luckily, it sands nicely…


----------



## RVroman (Nov 9, 2012)

Gshepard, the general rule of thumb is 1 year of drying time per inch thick, so I think you would be fine. I am not sure where you are, but here in the dry air of Colorado I usually look for things to be less than 8% moisture content before I do a final turn. You could rough turn it, let it sit overnight and see if there is any movement, then do your final turn the next day. But to be honest, if it has been sitting that long I would probably just turn it. (easy for me to say as I am not the one worrying about such a beautiful piece of wood twisting…)


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Terry, it is Full blown African Mahogany. I have about 3,000 bf of the 8/4 stuff and some of those boards are 18-22 inches wide. I been hoarding some nice lumber for years now and today I wanted to just take a break between the packing up the shop and all to relax a bit. So I was thinking of doing something totally diffrent and it hit me… A echo that kept telling me to do a platter….. So what the heck today I will do it…. Court tomorrow and I feel good about that so I just wanted to keep the good feelin rollin….. I have some kick a$$ quilted Mahogany but have not had the guts yet to cut it up…. waitin for the right project a know…..


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

thanks shep, just thinking about a 22" wide piece of 8/4 African Mahogany gave me the warm and fuzzies!!


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Well for you Don, I will take some nice pics of the Hoard pile I have…. After seein MOS doing his clocks gave me some ideas for the Quilted Mahogany…..

RV, I just noticed your in Littleton…..Soon Lasalle area. I looked at your website and Sir….. you do some very fine work there…. Your turnings are beautiful…. When I get the shop relocated I will fire up the grill and have a few local LJ's over for a few steaks and brewskie's…...


----------



## RVroman (Nov 9, 2012)

Thanks Gshepard, I am humbled. Let me give you an early welcome to CO and Lasalle is not to far at all relatively speaking. I am always up for meeting other LJs.


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Shane, one item you might want to get ordered is the scrap box of sandpaper from Klingspor. It is perfect for lathe sanding. Assortment of diffrent grits and they do a pretty good job with all diffrent grits and it is easy to tear strips…....

I am posting a few pics here for you on how I did a Pencil Cup… It might be helpfull and I am sure there are many diffrent way in doing this but this is my way…..

I took some 8/4 Mahogany, glue together, squared it and made some center marks, turned round and made a tenon for the chuck. 2nd pic I just cut in the center to seperte both pieces and sanded the little nub off before it went back into the chuck. This way I am making 2 cups. Used a 2 1/4 inch forstner to clean out the center left about 3/8 thick bottom. Cleaned out with scraper, sanded, oil/wax finish. Last pic is when I am cutting the tenon off, easy pencil cup done for one of the girls teachers…..


----------



## foxwoodfarm (Nov 20, 2011)

I would like to see a better picture of the cutoff tool, it looks pretty fancy and heavy duty


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

The cut off tool is a Lie Nelsen saw….. Walnut handle…..


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Pretty fancy for a cut off tool Shep. However, I am starting to expect nothing less from you. Lets see some pics of these mahogany platters you were going to be working on.


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

You will tomarrow Shane, along with the extra pencil boxes I made for the girls to give a few more teachers. I guess they were a big hit.


----------



## rum (Apr 28, 2011)

Interesting tool rest as well. You make that one?


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Shep, glad to hear the pencil holders were a big hit…since I'm hoping to sell a few dozen next year!  I also love your cut off tool…mine is a Gramercy with walnut handle…

Shane, you get that lathe out of the box yet?


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

No Terry, it is still in the truck. I am getting close. Spent some time the last couple of days cleaning in the shop. Once a year, whether it needs it or nor. That is my philosophy. I think my planer may live. Took it apart and it seemed ok, powered it up, and sounded ok. My Xmas list was all lathe accessories, so the pressure is building. Sooner or later I am going to have to figure out what the heck I am doing.

Got a new kindle, it likes to change words on me, so beware of incoherent babbling. lol


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Shane, I know what ya mean about cleaning the shop…since I spent all summer on the fencing, my shop only saw more and more dust when I could steal an hour to play on a rainy day…

I HAD to clean the shop BEFORE opening my lathe just so I could have room to move around! I had to friggin start dust removal with a square shovel!!! The 4" wheels under my Grizzly bandsaw were completely hidden with spectacular colored saw dust…sad. And un-healthy. I'm committed to living in a cleaner shop now!

The lathe is right in front of my shop's double doors…after a messy session, I just sweep the chips out onto my breezy front porch and let mother nature deposit them wherever she likes!


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Here is the platter, It is 16in Dia, A few pencil cups for the girls teachers. Nothing fancy several already given to teachers but the girls wanted a few more so I did them. I also did a small vase last night and will post that as well a bit later…....




























Mans best friend here guys, Osacr will not leave my side and is usually under the lathe, I had him buried earlier….


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

I so need to upgrade my lathe. I love the platter Shep.


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Awesome pics and projects Shep. The pic of the dog covered is really cool.


----------



## RVroman (Nov 9, 2012)

Nice platter and cups!


----------



## RVroman (Nov 9, 2012)

I think this is the lathe of his dreams simply because it is his.


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Nice, power tools are awesome gifts. Look forward to see some of his turnings.


----------



## carguy460 (Jan 3, 2012)

As usual, I'm going to ask a question that likely has 30 different answers and has been answered 28 times before, but that's just how I roll, so here we go:

I did my first bit of turning last week, and I fear I'm hooked…now I know that I NEED a lathe (ok, need is a bit of a bs word for this, but I'm sticking with it).

Exactly how do I determine what I want in a lathe? I know that I want the OPTION of turning small stuff (maybe pens or marking knife handles for an upcoming swap hint-hint), but also would like to be able to turn a chair leg (or 4, just to make it functional)...I think I would like to take a whack at a bowl someday, too.

So, with that in mind, could a smaller benchtop model work for me? Could I use a smaller lathe and later buy a bed extension for doing chair legs etc? Is that a bad idea?

Ok, experts, baffle me with your knowledge!


----------



## RVroman (Nov 9, 2012)

Hi Carguy, I am sure you will get a lot of advice and information in this thread. However you may also want to see a thread started by Horizontal Mike that dealt with the exact same questions. It can be found at http://lumberjocks.com/topics/44106


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Jason, I guess first off is what is your budget? That will help a lot cause it will narrow down the playing field somewhat. I love my Nova DVR just because I knew I would be doing some bigger bowls as well as larger platters and the flexability to go from pens to large turnings would be pretty easy. The DVR head will rotate and has the option for the outboard attachment which is very nice. 1hp motor would be the min I would be looking for and getting up to 2hp is even better. Depending on how big of bowls your plan on making but I think by now you can imagine once your hooked your hooked so get the biggest you can possible afford and go from there.

With the pic I have of the platter I did with Oscar getting covered up, I can rotate the head in many diffrent positions and still use the added outboard. You can also make your own outboard as well…..

There are a lot of nice lathes out there and once you decide a price range It will help a lot.


----------



## carguy460 (Jan 3, 2012)

Good thread suggestion, Robert. Thanks! I missed it somehow…

Shep - I don't really know what my budget is…I was going to try and figure out what features I wanted and what size I should be after so I knew what my expected cash outlay range would be. I know, kinda backwards thinking, but that is how most of my stuff ends up. That said, if I can get by with a $300 lathe that will do what I want as opposed to a $700 one, I'm all for it.

I guess my price range would be up to about $700 MAX…the less, the better. I think some joinery saws are first priority, so the less $$ for the lathe, the sooner I will be able to get it!

I think my problem is that I don't know what I really want…dangit.


----------



## hairy (Sep 23, 2008)

carguy460, here's some food for thought.http://nealaddy.org/node/39


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

OK, got the lathe out of the back of truck, and into the shop. Put it together, gave it a spin. Keep in mind I haven't sharpened the Sorby 6 pc set yet, no time for trivial stuff, right? My first observation…it is real easy to get carried away. Turned a handle for my 1" James Swan. Went from looks to bulky, to maybe a little skimpy quick.

Pretty fun stuff. Of course I have a million questions, but I will try to space them out. I turned it between centers.How do you know when it is tight enough? When sizing the tapered socket, is there an easier way than taking it off/on and keep checking it?

Remember boys and girls, chisels are sharp be careful jamming the handle in, you could cut yourself. Blood was spilled.

I may need to read the directions on the G3, lot of fiddly parts. What do you do with all the crap? Do I need more than 1 chuck. I see WC has the G3 w/jaws on sale…I am a sucker for a sale, that is how/why I got all this stuff in the 1st place.

Pics tomorrow, it will be good for a few laughs : )


----------



## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/44820

Congrats Shane! Sure is fun but be careful. Fellow LJer ldl just 
got smacked in the face when the bowl he was turning cracked in two and
flew apart.


----------



## OnlyJustME (Nov 22, 2011)

Hope you didn't get yourself too bad. You're still posting so i'm guessing it wasn't too much blood loss.

Shane, when i do chisel handle sockets i size it with calipers at the largest end and the the smallest end and then taper in between to meet. Still have to check it a couple times but it goes pretty easy.

I just crank down on the tailstock until it's hard to turn and then after the piece is rounded (if its a larger one) i will double check the crank to see if it turns more.


----------



## foxwoodfarm (Nov 20, 2011)

This bump was caused by a 6 lb chunk of wood that came off my lathe. It was only going at 600 RPM thank goodness. Right after this I bought a good faceshield and have had a few small chunks of wood bounce off of it.


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Foxwood, damn I am glad you were knocked into next week….... That does look painfull… I also need to get a faceshield…..

Shane, I keep taking notes here as I think about it since your getting started in turning, One thing I wanted to point out is…... When switching to diffrent jaws on your chuck, look to be sure they are not numbered, I made that mistake last week before I pulled my head out…. Some Nova jaws have a number and probably some do not just look closley cause it will make a diffrence…....

Center point on your lathe will be the same, sometimes it is easier to just put some elec tape around the tool rest to give you a good refrence….. Did you double check to make sure the headstock is lined up with the tail stock? Good to do once in a while.


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Not sure I follow on the chuck numbers per se. The one I bought is G3, reversible made for Deltas. Was just thinking when I watch videos I see all the chucks in the background of other turners. So I wasn't sure if multiple chucks, especially the same model was "needed"? Sort of like I have 5ish jack planes.

The center points did line up pretty well. Didn't measure, they were not absolutely perfect, but pretty damned close. Like in the 100th inch range or less, if I was to guess.

WC also had a face shield on sale for $15, picked up one on the way home from work. Figured a noob needed to protect the money maker, as best as possible.

Lots to learn. Lots of questions.


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Shane, the Jaws can be taken off and you can put diffrent ones on it. One the side or back is usally a number 1 thru 4… You need to match each jaw to the correct one the chuck. If you look on the side of the chuck each jaw will have a number stamped on it…. Does this help?


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

yes, thanks. saw them on the chuck, but didnt pay attention to the jaws. oops


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

what about those guys who make the home made wooden chucks? is that a really bad idea?


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Mauricio, I know a lot of people who make their own longsworth chucks for example as you see them posted once in a while. if you do a good job making them and with good solid birch ply there should be no problems at all. I have made some faceplates before with using a large tap but found out that depending on the wood it will develope some slack and starts to wobble a bit.

oh just a note, regular plywood has a lot of voids in the layers so it has a tendency to be way out of balance sometimes vs birch plywood.


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Shane, congrats! Please be careful as you are learning…I still get cut with my own chisels sometimes, even after 2 months of hardcore practice. 

bud, read the instructions, too. Skip all the warnings, though.  Just the operation information…And get a pair of calipers…or make a wooden 'caliper' from a rectangle of thin wood. Just cut out a u-shaped section of the wood that is the width you want to copy…maybe a photo of that idea would help?

Love the face shield usage…gotta protect our good looks, ya know!

Gonna write up a review of my jet1220vs in one more month. So far, she is down to 3 stars. Too much mis- alignment of the tail vs head, sloppy paint job is coming off already, locking nut securing tailstock to the bed disintegrated a few days ago…just the nylon insert…Overall it has a cheap feeling to it after 2 months…bummer for $700.


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Sorry to hear about the lathe Terry. Look forward to the full review. I have some calipers, but I think I will get some more. Anyone have a source for some reasonable ones?

I am thinking I will like turning. I am going to be raiding some random firewood piles, so I can get some different sizes chunks other than 1 to 2" I have laying around the shop. Good news is, I got plenty of scraps to practice on.


----------



## jeepturner (Oct 3, 2010)

I missed this thread, but thanks for starting it. I have been too busy with other projects to have much lathe time. The last lathe time I did have was an actual paying gig. I don't do work on commissions much, I would rather direct customers to the folks who do this for a living, but I do make an exception for the right price and project. 
My dream lathe was a Oneway, until I saw the picture in this thread of the Oliver sixty two foot pattern makers lathe. Now I am pining for more floor space and an Oliver. I will look forward to following this in the future.


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Terry, sorry to hear about your lathe issues….. paint you can live with but alignment issues would really suck the big one. Call Jet and see what they say about the alignment issue and see if there is a fix for it.

Shane, get ahold of some local tree cutting companys and also the citys tree dump… A good source for free if not super cheap wood and also some woodturning clubs keep a free community pile available as well…....

Mel, I know what you mean some of them old lathes just speak to you in your dreams. You can't beat the old iron. I still have my eyes on a OneWay or even a Robust. I can not speak badly of the Nova DVR at all so far but have not turned a whole lot with it but I know customer service has been top notch. Issues with it were self inflicted even.


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Shane, learn some about the Stave bowls and vases and other glueups you can use 4/4 material on as well….. Like that Vase I made for example….


----------



## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Hey I'm getting a lathe together and I'm to the point of choosing my driver pulleys. If all goes according to plan I'll have 9 speeds available. How does this speed range sound (464 - 2975 RPMs)? It's a 7×12 lathe. I know some mini-lathes go up to 4000 but that seems too fast.


----------



## carguy460 (Jan 3, 2012)

All - thanks for the input on my lathe decision question!

Rick - thats a good question you have there regarding speed. My Dad has done some larger bowl turning and he said that for him, a low speed option was really important for that. I don't know anything about it, but he advised me (for bowls) to shoot for the low 400's at least.

Does that sound right to you bowl turners out there?


----------



## SASmith (Mar 22, 2010)

Mauricio, this is not a wooden chuck, but it is my poor boy way of turning the bottom of my bowls.
Just a piece of plywood mounted to a face plate. Some bolts, nuts, locks, and washers with dry hot glue used as padding secure it.


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Rick, Having a range from 200 rpm on up does have its advantages….. I even use 100 when it comes to finishing….. 
very Seldom do I ever go above 3,000 max I can do is 3,500, then again we are looking a possible time travel at those speeds…..LOL


----------



## RVroman (Nov 9, 2012)

There are two rules of thumb I have learned regarding speed. The first is the "turn it up until it gets scary, then back off a bit" method. The second is to divide 6,000 by the diameter of the piece for the lowest speed, and 9,000 by the diameter for the highest speed.

So, when turning a 6" bowl the range would be 1,000 - 1,500 RPM (6,000/10, and 9,000/10)

However, one must also consider the balance of the wood (sometimes a piece is out of balance when turned slow, and balanced when tuned fast. This is often the case with burls or spalted wood), any cracks or voids that exist, the shape being turned, and so on.

Speed is often a "feel" thing, and is a function of both the methods in paragraph one. In general people turn faster the more comfortable they get, but you have to use good judgement as well. Remember that the faster the RPM the smoother the cut.


----------



## RVroman (Nov 9, 2012)

Here is a good site about speeds.

http://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/lathespeed.html


----------



## carguy460 (Jan 3, 2012)

Good stuff Robert, thanks!

If I recall when I turned my mallet handle, Dad had it spinning at 1400 the entire time, never changed it once…As a first time turner, that scared the crap outta me. I can't imagine 3000…


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

RV, thanks for that link, nice one! I'm still a newbie, so turn kinda slow…2,000 rpm max.

Shep, that's another impressive piece! I love your plywood face plate with shop made holdfasts. Really, dried glue pads the workpiece well enough? Awesome…another accessory I must have!  Been thinking of something similar that uses old poly cutting boards scraps to hold the wood…

Still drawing plans for my 'mini' mallet…guaranteed to please this gang!


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

SAS you always have the MacGyver solutions to things. That looks pretty good, how do you ensure that the bowel is centered?

How about the guys who do green woodworking. I see them turn bowls like this but I don't understand what that column is in the middle. Is that glued on?


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

I have now turned several chisel handles. I am thinking this whole "turning thing" is pretty cool. I think I will pick the shape I like the best out of the ones I have made, and get me a template so I can knock out a matching set. I have been using walnut, and one in Zebrawood. I am not sure what I will use on my "final" set. Cherry, BE Maple, Figured Maple, Figured Walnut…buy something else? But I think I will go with the Swans in one wood and the Stanleys in another.

I am already to the point I want to glue some stuff up to turn and raid a fire wood pile or two. Gotta try a mallet and some other different shaped stuff. Probably need to learn how to sharpen the chisels too. LOL


----------



## SASmith (Mar 22, 2010)

Maur, to make sure it is centered I just eyeball it to the circles drawn on the plywood.
When I made it I cut the plywood roughly round on the bandsaw then mounted it to the faceplate.
I trued it to round first, then I trued the face flat. After that I turned the lathe on and with a pencil made circles every 1/4"(barely visible from the pic above.) I then just center the bowl using the circles as a reference. If I make a different sized bowl than normal I just drill a new holes where I need them.

Terry, the dried hot glue(about 1/4" thick) works well as padding. 
When I turn the bottoms I usually have the rest of the bowl finished (salad bowl finish). The glue keeps the washers from scratching the finish. You could use leather instead I would imagine.

I also always leave the face plate on the plywood so I don't have out of center issues.

I will have to post some pics of my shopsmith 10er that I upgraded to variable speed. I now have variable speed from 1-3000 RPMs. I used a $100 VFD and a 3 phase Baldor motor. It is much nicer now.


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

ooops…sorry, Scott, I didn't mean to call ya by the wrong name. I like the idea of using leather as you mentioned…whenever I mess with hot glue I just get it all over ME and not the project.

Again, awesome bowl! Looks like a ton of work just creating the blank!


----------



## SASmith (Mar 22, 2010)

No problem, terry. 
That bowl is not as difficult as it looks. I can make the blank and turn a 12" bowl in that pattern in about 4 hours, not counting glue drying time or applying the finish.
A bowl like the one below is much quicker to make.


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Mauricio, When I look at that pic with the long shaft there, I see that his tail stock is a big block, which would make it more difficult to get up close to the work. With the long column I see it as a extra support to keep the work secured. When I did the platter for example. after I got the center smoothed out I used something very close to this to keep the platter holding hard against the chuck. It just made me feel safer. As your trning large bowls/platters as you tend to get to the outer edges there is some flex and having that extra support gave me a warm and fuzzy feeling…..

SAS, nice looking bowl…..

Terry, get some large plastic clear hose, they have they stuff around here at Big R, it will work just as a leather washer, hot glue, to protect from getting scratches and dents in your wood. To keep a bowl from expanding I will do the same as SAS on his faceplate jig except I will create a 1/4 in deep channel so the bowl edges sit inside and can not expand. Having some good Baltic birch plywood around sure does come in handy…... Here is a good jig to have….This is the jig I use for making my Stave Vases…... Bob Fulton jig.

www.woodturner.org/products/aw/articles/StavedJig.pdf


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Absolute noob question here, but can a rheostat be put on an electric motor, in a lathe specifically, to get varied speeds? A simple dimmer switch?


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Smitty, I tried that once but could not get it to work and even tried the variable speed router gaget with no luck when I was rigging up a mop sander….....


----------



## blackcherry (Dec 7, 2007)

Now that's a original bench dog…lol


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty, I tried it on my grinder. Didn't work.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Did some googl'ing… Looks like variable speed and cap start motors don't play together.


----------



## hairy (Sep 23, 2008)

Some can, some can't. DC motors can be slowed by a rheostat, boat trolling motors for example. I don't know about all, but some treadmills use dc motors. I'm sure that some clever person could make a homemade lathe with a treadmill motor.


----------



## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Absolute noob question here, but can a rheostat be put on an electric motor, in a lathe specifically, to get varied speeds? A simple dimmer switch?

Smitty, if you get a 3 speed AC fan motor I have a blog post on wiring them for a lathe here:

http://lumberjocks.com/wormil/blog/33768


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Got a chance to play today…turned a vise handle for a fellow LJ buddy who doesn't have a lathe. Made from red oak, 7/8" shaft for an old Wilton patternmaker's handle, 10" long. I simply used a wood screw to re-attach one knob after being cut free…

lots of fun…another item I hadn't considered making before the lathe purchase…


----------



## Alutkus (Jan 9, 2013)

The Jet Lathes are great and I visit mine every day.


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Sweet pic Terry.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

nice handle Terry. You should have let Mauricio thread it for you.


----------



## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Nice handle, next time Terry make one end a tenon and install it on the vise and expoxy it and eliminate the wood screw all together. Just a suggestion, it is a bad omen when you do lathe work and have to use a screw to keep it together…. Just sayin….LOL


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Bummer…I had no idea it was a bad omen. Would've been easy to form a tenon as Shep says. I was just trying to make re installation easy for my bud.

Now I know…


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

I didn't know it was a bad omen either Terry. I tend to "screw up" a lot of things 

Not to change the subject, but I put metal pipe clamps on both ends of mine. I like the clank sound it makes when your using it.


----------



## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

Not me. I put rubber bands on them. My Twin-Screw vise had very short screws and that slap eventually knocked one of the balls off. I like rubber bands, they are almost as good as rock bands… *;-)*


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Well, I was asked to make a wooden handle that replaces a current metal one…buddy didn't like the clank sound or the feel of metal. Guess we are all different?  Lucky for that fact, or the price of Ford f-250's would double!

Ya know, as a joke, I almost mailed the turned handle in ONE piece!


----------



## OnlyJustME (Nov 22, 2011)

that would have been funny. )


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

What is the preferred method for drilling/hollowing out end grain? I was using a forstner bit in a jacobs chuck and it seemed to be overly difficult. Also turned some freshly cut maple from the firewood pile. Is it possible for it to be too wet? it turned easily, but it almost felt damp. Turned a small mallet out of some mystery wood, maybe elm. Need to get some pics up.


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Shane, glad you are up and running!  photos please!

How were you drilling? on the lathe? start with smaller diameter bits and work your way up to the final size. they should cut pretty easily in end grain. I use a square tipped chisel to hollow out more wood after the drill bit..just pushing it directly into the grain at low speed. I only try to remove about 1/4" width of material using that method…stair stepping the hole larger and deeper. a photo would be nice here…

Wet wood is soft as butter…should turn quickly…but will leave water everywhere. If you have access to freshly cut logs, I highly recommend (again!) Turning Green Wood by Michael O'Donnell. He turns green wood so thin it can't split when it dries…gotta know wood structure for that…he even dried out small wood pieces in the microwave post lathe! Cool ideas…

My understanding is…you can't turn wood that is too wet. However, the wood is gonna move as it dries. Spindles bend. bowls warp. Just part of the process. But green wood is usually free or cheap…so I def want to learn more about this topic! So far, all I have is 'book knowledge'...


----------



## RVroman (Nov 9, 2012)

You can turn wet wood, just leave it oversized and put it aside to allow it to dry. It will move as it dries, but then just return it to its final dimensions to get rid of that. You would want to consider using anchor seal, putting it in two brown paper bags, etc. as it dries to slow the rate of moisture loss, and therefore reduce cracking and moving.

As far as hollowing end grain goes, if you are going the drilling route vs. using a spindle or bowl gouge, then as Terry said, start small and move up, this reduces the work on the lathe. Also, use slow speeds, in the case of your machine, as slow as you can go. Generally around 200 - 250 RPM works well.


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Thanks guys, I didnt use the progressively bigger method. I chucked up a forstner bit, a large one, didnt look to see what size…but I am thinking it was 1 1/4" +. I was a little nervous. Also, I will go as slow speed as possible. In my infancy, I am more comfortable turning between centers. Plus, I still have basically no idea what I am doing.


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Shane, relax, and have fun! 

Remember woodworking tips you already know like sneaking up on the line…same principle on fortsner bits on the lathe. Remove wood in small amounts like a handplane…control…ya know?

I think a narrow spindle gouge is next on my wish list…have to admit…I prefer HSS chisels so far over the carbide tipped ones. The carbide cutting edge is so thin and un-supported for a small distance, that it vibrates badly…especially on end grain, and when extended 3" past the tool rest. Much worse than a thick piece of steel that's been honed to a point.

Just my observation at this point…


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

I was eyeballing some carbide ones last night. I still have not brought myself to sharpen the HSS Sorby set I have yet. The carbide does look tiny compared to the one I am using now. I am going to need to man up and learn to sharpen the set I have.


----------



## OnlyJustME (Nov 22, 2011)

Shane, you could buy the cheap harbor freight lathe chisels to practice sharpening. then when you get comfy with the sharpening you can make custom shapes for specific cuts. I made a hook shape out of a cheap duplicate i had to do captured rings.


----------



## stan3443 (Mar 3, 2012)

http://cleveland.craigslist.org/tls/3547335356.html

if I only had the room and the money


----------



## OnlyJustME (Nov 22, 2011)

No problem. I'll just put in my. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .never mind. lol


----------



## Derec (Jan 4, 2013)

Very Nice! I am jealous!


----------



## Bluepine38 (Dec 14, 2009)

I do not even have room for that fancy outboard tool rest they are showing in the last picture with the 
motor, but it sure does make you wish.


----------



## stan3443 (Mar 3, 2012)

I have a soft spot for old iron


----------



## Gopher (Jan 26, 2013)

Rikon 70-100


----------



## playsk8r (Oct 29, 2012)

Well, I guess I am a little late on replying to this but my dream lathe is a oneway. I went to a place called wood chuckers. They are oneway and robust dealers. I sorta "looked" at both lathes. But with the robust, is just didn't feel at good as the oneway. I dont know what it was but it just didn't feel as well designed. Don't misundestand me, the Robust is a GREAT lathe, but I just like the oneway better. Oneway is Canadian made, Robust is American made. There both in the same ballpark. My words on the PM: I have never used or seen a 4224(b), however it seems like a very traditional lathe. It doesn't allow outboard turning, and if your buying a lathe for 7 g+ I expect it to have outboard. Also, it's made in Taiwan and although taiwanese made machinery has come up in quality it a mass produced lathe. Oneway is a semi-custom lathe. Each one is hand assembled and made. It is equipped to your personal specifications by a small, Canadian company that actually cares about the end result. And did I mention that it was cheaper! The pendant works very well and with a 3 HP motor, only the robust can tough it. If I had to choose, I would take the Oneway. I would be happier with the Oneway, but it's not like I'd refuse a Robust. I just want to support a small Canadian business. But you probably shouldn't choose the PM. Not only is it too expensive, but it not tailor made for you.


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Guys - Check out this charming Holtzapffel treadle lathe on ebay.co.uk. Nice photos and the seller's text makes for intereting reading too.


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

That would look good being used in your garden Andy, along with your new workbench.


----------



## Bluepine38 (Dec 14, 2009)

If you are feeling wealthy check out the American version - www.ornamentalturner.com/Archive/LAWLER.HTM


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

No Shane, that won't be coming home to me. It deserves to be owned by someone who is a fanatical turner. I just thought you guys would appreciate it's charm.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

I would love to try one. I'm not sure i'm dedicated enough to use it all the time, but I would like to try it.


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Yeah, Andy, that Holtzapffel is a good-looker! Would be proud to have her in my shop…but would have to cut back on the double stuff oreos…


----------



## RVroman (Nov 9, 2012)

Or you could double up on them knowing you would work them off.


----------

