# Joining Rounded legs onto 90 degree mitre corner?



## RogueRobot (May 26, 2016)

Hi all,
I'm in a sticky situation. I've designed the following upper table:









Here is a closer look at the part i'm having trouble with:


















The leg (top and bottom has a diameter of 22mm):









My main question:
I have no idea how to join the leg onto the mitre corner. The overhang is 6mm, however I can make it flush with the bottom of the table. 
My only idea is to get a circular tubed bracket (similar to type below) and screw it on.
(http://products.ironcdn.co/992009.jpg?w=170&quality=80&ts=2552016).

Tools, or budget isn't a problem. But time is (about 1 week and 1-4 hours a day to do the join)

Thanks in Advance.


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## gargey (Apr 11, 2016)

Beautiful table! Good job


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Make a center finder:
http://lumberjocks.com/search_results?cx=017914489645407774653%3Agwwk-zif3wk&cof=FORID%3A9&safe=high&q=shop+made+center+finder&sa.x=0&sa.y=0
Handsawgeek made an effective one:









Get some threaded inserts and matching threaded rods ( or carriage bolts)
5/16×18 tpi (thread per inch) etc…









And have some fun.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Or, you can use these:


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## chiseler (Dec 20, 2015)

you could change your design and turn your legs with pommel to accept aprons.because no matter what you do in that situation the table won't be very stable


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## conifur (Apr 1, 2015)

Best bet is to leave the upper part of the legs square to mate in with the aprons, then your fastener choices will increase and strength. What is the top?? Not flat? what kinda table is that?


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## Unknowncraftsman (Jun 23, 2013)

It's a design that needs refinement.Conifer has a good suggestion 
The legs will be too weak if it's in a area were people will walk up to it a leg might get kicked.Thats gonna be a problem.
Good for you thinking out of the normal.


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## RogueRobot (May 26, 2016)

> Best bet is to leave the upper part of the legs square to mate in with the aprons, then your fastener choices will increase and strength. What is the top?? Not flat? what kinda table is that?
> 
> - conifur


it's hard to see, but there is glass on top. The 'wierd things' are balustrades- the poles between railings on deckings.


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## RogueRobot (May 26, 2016)

> It s a design that needs refinement.Conifer has a good suggestion
> The legs will be too weak if it s in a area were people will walk up to it a leg might get kicked.Thats gonna be a problem.
> Good for you thinking out of the normal.
> 
> - Aj2


it's going to hold coffee, small plates, etc.
Won't be kicked. I forgot to mention it will be sitting on a lower table;









the full thing:








Sorry about the angles, these are the only pictures I had before my CAD software licence ran out today (even though I renewed it last month for a year…)

The two tables are going to come apart- it's a key feature for the table.
This is a school project, all being made for a real client (last year of school, I'm doing Product Design and Technology)


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## RogueRobot (May 26, 2016)

> Or, you can use these:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


A double ended screw would be really useful- especially since I missed some details (see images above)


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## Ger21 (Oct 29, 2009)

> it s going to hold coffee, small plates, etc.
> Won t be kicked.


Without drastically changing the design, I'd use dowel screws like the previous poster showed. The bigger, the better.


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## RogueRobot (May 26, 2016)

Thanks for the help everyone. I'll use dowel screws to hold it together. I'll create a separate thread once it's finished


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## RogueRobot (May 26, 2016)

Thanks for the help everyone. I'll use dowel screws to hold it together. I'll create a separate thread once it's finished


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