# Want to avoid having to sand the hell out of glue squeeze out of joined panels



## nickbatz (Mar 7, 2018)

Tips?

I wipe off the glue that squeezes out of the top with bleach wipes (which have appeared on store shelves again).

But more glue drips out the bottom due to gravity, and I can't really lift the clamped panels to get at it without causing the boards to shift a little… making for more sanding.

If they're 13" or less I run them through the thickness planer, but that doesn't work for desktops.

TIA


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

Have you tried using a paint scraper on the glue? It's not perfect but it avoids sanding off the glue and goes real fast with a sharp scraper. After that I often go to a hand plane. I realize planes involve a whole learning process in some respects but one of the tasks they do easily without a lot of tuning is rough flattening of glue ups. I tend to let glue dry before trying to get it off because wiping it wet tends to force glue into the pores with some woods.

I've also flattened panels with an electric plane but it takes off more material easily so you have to be careful.


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## nickbatz (Mar 7, 2018)

I use a chisel, same idea as the scraper, and I do let it dry first. Then I've been using a belt sander, followed by the usual random access sanding routine of progressively finer discs. Not only is it a PITA, it's hard to avoid bumps in the surface.

A hand plane is a good idea. I don't even have one - hand or electric - but I should.

Thanks.


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## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Less glue. Use a lexan spreader to get a thin, even layer of glue.









Limited squeezeout mostly shrinks back into the joint.

Don't use bleach wipes. In fact wiping tends to smear.

Use dowels/biscuits/dominos to keep the edges from shifting. Use cauls to hold the boards flat while clamping.

Let the glue get rubbery and use a scraper.

Sand.


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## CWWoodworking (Nov 28, 2017)

Drum sander or wide belt sander.

If your supplier has a sander, inquire about using it.

Find local woodworking friend with sander. I'd sand one offs for nuttin.


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## nickbatz (Mar 7, 2018)

Madmark, good ideas - especially less glue and the lexan spreader.

Dowels etc., I'm too lazy. Letting the glue get rubbery makes sense, but then I'm back to using dowels to stop it from shifting. 

Maybe I should consider getting a biscuit joiner.


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## nickbatz (Mar 7, 2018)

> Drum sander or wide belt sander.
> 
> If your supplier has a sander, inquire about using it.
> 
> ...


Thanks CW. The lumberyard I go to doesn't have any of that. There's another one I like that does, but they're quite a bit more expensive, and even if I did buy the wood there, they'd insist upon having one of their people run it through their Timesaver and charge a minimum.

By the time I even drive there I'd be done. 

One of these days I might make a drum sander out of a treadmill. But a wide belt sander is also a good idea.


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## nickbatz (Mar 7, 2018)

Madmark, what specific lexan spreader do you use? Do you just cut them from sheets, and do you throw them away afterward or clean them off?


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## nickbatz (Mar 7, 2018)

Actually, I could just use a router for biscuits if I were going to do that. Hm…


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## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

I just use whatever scraps of lexan I have kicking around. My fave is about 1" x 4". Put the edge of the lexan on the edge & hold at a slight angle while spreading.

You want 100% coverage just thick enough to obscure the grain. Don't let it crown. Only apply to one side (per Titebond II bottle instructions).

It keeps the glue off your fingers (and spreading glue finger prints all over). Its easy to scrape any excess off the spreader without getting it on your fingers, pants, shirt, etc..

I leave 'em on my bench and let the glue dry. PVA doesn't stick to nonporous surfaces like lexan. I scrape any old glue off with a fingernail and it just pops off in sheets.

Invest in a cheap (<$100) biscuit joiner and you won't regret it. Using a router to cut biscuit slots almost always has a bad fit and is a PITA to setup and use vs plug & chug on the biscuit joiner.

Mine is cheap ($79) and the fence is hard to lock. So mine is cranked down somewhere near 5/16" - more-or-less centered slot for 1/8" biscuit in 3/4" stock - and never adjust it.

In small table construction it can act as a loose tenon when connecting the apron to the legs. I've even doubled up and put two #20 biscuits into the joint. I've got a couple of tables built that way that are 25 years old and still holding like they were new.









Jatoba & marble plant stand built entirely with biscuits.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

Shipwright standard response:
... Stop using PVA.
Hide glues, among several other advantages, clean up easily with water and don't block finishes.

I think I'll copy this and just paste it from now on.


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## nickbatz (Mar 7, 2018)

Great info. Thanks so much.


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## nickbatz (Mar 7, 2018)

> Shipwright standard response:
> ... Stop using PVA.
> Hide glues, among several other advantages, clean up easily with water and don't block finishes.
> 
> ...


Yeah, I'm not into heating up glue, and the Titebond hide glue isn't strong enough for edge joints.

And it does block oil finish, not sure about other kinds.

I know a lot of people swear by it, but it's not for me.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

Not to start an argument but no one recommends Tightbond hide glue. Old Brown Glue is as strong as what you are using and would solve your problem.


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## Kirk650 (May 8, 2016)

I use one of those black plastic handled paint scrapers - the ones where you can loosen a screw and rotate the cutter to another sharp edge. But instead of rotating the edge, these days I take a flat file and sharpen the edge. Get it real sharp and it'll scrape off the glue like a champ. Then I use a ROS. I never use a belt sander, since I can't adequately control the wood removal.


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## mdhills (Mar 12, 2011)

How big is the panel?
And how much pressure are you applying with clamps? Are you placing clamps both above and below?

Shifting is most common when first applying the clamps.
Cauls across the ends can help to keep things flat.
I've also heard people advise introducing a bit of salt or even clipped pin nails to keep the boards from slipping.

Once a panel is clamped up, I'm usually able to lift it up and leave it in the clamps on-edge, without any shifting.

If you want to wait an hour or two, for when the glue is partially set, I'd think it would be even less likely to shift. And that is a good time to trim off the excess glue.

Getting the amount dialed in to just a bead of squeeze out, as opposed to streams/rivers/lakes will make the cleanup easier. (a small bead of dried glue comes off pretty easily with an old chisel; the larger glue blobs are much harder and tend to take wood with them)

Matt


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## nickbatz (Mar 7, 2018)

> Not to start an argument but no one recommends Tightbond hide glue. Old Brown Glue is as strong as what you are using and would solve your problem.
> 
> - shipwright


I know no one recommends it - I found that out the hard way!

But I'll try Old Brown Glue.


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## nickbatz (Mar 7, 2018)

> How big is the panel?


To be very clear, slipping is not an issue at all, and I do use cauls. The only issue is that I don't like sanding off glue. 

But if I were to turn the freshly-clamped panels over to wipe the glue off, slipping probably would be an issue. Sometimes I make small panels, but I make desktops as large as 24" x 60".

This is one of the custom composer's desks I make, to give you and idea:


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## LeeRoyMan (Feb 23, 2019)

> Shipwright standard response:
> ... Stop using PVA.
> Hide glues, among several other advantages, clean up easily with water and don't block finishes.
> 
> ...


No need to copy and paste, 
All we need is to see your picture, and maybe just put a period in the field. We know the rest. LOL
Not an insult, just funnin….


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## nickbatz (Mar 7, 2018)

Here's a different one showing what it is, shown with its desktop slid forward, in case that's a head-scratcher:


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

> No need to copy and paste,
> All we need is to see your picture, and maybe just put a period in the field. We know the rest. LOL
> Not an insult, just funnin….
> 
> - LeeRoyMan


 Would this work Leroy? Good idea!


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## CWWoodworking (Nov 28, 2017)

You need a drum sander.


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## SMP (Aug 29, 2018)

Cheapest is card scraper


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## iminmyshop (Dec 9, 2012)

Second on the Old Brown glue, using less glue and card scraper. No need to glue both sides. I like Old Brown glue which washes off easily with warm water. If you mess up you can apply moisture and heat and redo it yet is is otherwise a very tight bond.
With a card scraper you'll spend less time and money on sandpaper. Unless you have some good experience, be careful with the belt sander. It can create a big dip in a big hurry.
Some have applied a wax coating to the parts where they don't want glue and then washed it off with mineral spirits. I tried that for a while but getting the wax off is no fun either and it messes with the finish if you don't get all of it off.


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## LeeRoyMan (Feb 23, 2019)

> No need to copy and paste,
> All we need is to see your picture, and maybe just put a period in the field. We know the rest. LOL
> Not an insult, just funnin….
> 
> ...


Glad you have a since of humor!
Keep posting what you post, others may not be in the know…
I may even try it someday..


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## Tony_S (Dec 16, 2009)

Proper alignment, types of glue, etc. aside(different topics, problems all together). If you're finding the excess glue removal time consuming enough to ask questions about, you're using too much glue. Full stop.
What you should be shooting for as far as ideal squeeze out are small pinhead beads every 1/4"-3/8". Anything more is excessive.
It shouldn't take you more than 30 seconds to scrape down(with a sharp paint scraper) the glue joints on both sides of the largest panel on the desk you posted.
Continuous beads, drips, runs…too much glue. 
It takes practice, but you'd be very surprised how little glue you need to apply to form a proper glue joint.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

Haven't read all the posts, apologize for repetition.



> I wipe off the glue that squeezes out of the top with bleach wipes (which have appeared on store shelves again).


Why? A rag and water works fine. I would think bleach could potentially cause an issue.



> But more glue drips out the bottom due to gravity, and I can t really lift the clamped panels to get at it without causing the boards to shift a little… making for more sanding.


If its clamped properly this isn't an issue.

I usually slip a spacer underneath that is higher than the clamp bars. This facilitates cleaning and staining. Cauls are necessary doing it this way.

Having to sand glue residue off means you've already done something wrong.

That said, hide glue cleans up much, much easier, even if dry. Personally I find myself moving away from aliphatic glues and using Old Brown Glue more and more these days.

You just have to remember to flip on the glue pot first thing!


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## controlfreak (Jun 29, 2019)

Any advise on glue ups from a woodworker that has fun seeing how many joints can be included in one project should be given some serious thought.


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

> Shipwright standard response:
> ... Stop using PVA.
> Hide glues, among several other advantages, clean up easily with water and don't block finishes.
> 
> ...


Or maybe just change your signature line. No copy & paste required. ;-)


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

Maybe it's only me, but everytime I've ran squeeze out through a drum sander all I accomplished was ruining a belt. The glue clogged streaks into it that could not be cleaned out.


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## CWWoodworking (Nov 28, 2017)

> Maybe it s only me, but everytime I ve ran squeeze out through a drum sander all I accomplished was ruining a belt. The glue clogged streaks into it that could not be cleaned out.
> 
> - Fred Hargis


I wipe the excess off but not too particular.

I send my panels through at an angle so the glue is not hitting the same spot. This also makes panels super flat.


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## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

What works for me is to pre-assemble the top by clamping and leveling the panels. I then apply (generously) a coating of paste wax at the joints (I go about 1" on each side of the joint), the pre-assembly keeps any wax from getting onto the edge glue surfaces. Don't attempt to wipe up any squeeze out as this forces glue into the wood grain and makes removal more difficult.

Reassemble and clamp/ After the glue "skins" up (30 minutes to a hour), you can easily knock off the "boogers" that have beaded up, but you can also wait for a day until it is dry.

A simple scraper will easily knock off the remaining bits without removing chunks of wood since the glue is not bonded where the wax was applied.

A wipe down with mineral spirits after scraping will remove the wax.


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## nickbatz (Mar 7, 2018)

I'm getting the idea that I'm using too much glue. Roger on that. Check.



> I wipe off the glue that squeezes out of the top with bleach wipes (which have appeared on store shelves again).
> 
> Why? A rag and water works fine. I would think bleach could potentially cause an issue.
> 
> ...


Incorrect clamping? I want to know how to do that! 

Why bleach towels: because they work well and I'm too lazy to deal with rags. Sometimes I use wet blue shop towels.

Anyway, glue pots are not for me. But I don't hate people who use them.


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## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

A collective of several answers will help keep any panel from "shift" slipping, sliding, whatever you want to call it.

I would favor these answers. I'll also add making sure your edges to be glued up, are well jointed, and complimentary to each other. IOW a flat 90 degree edge and one with a 2 degree bevel will never make a tight fit. Having a 2 degree bevel isn't a crime, as long as the piece you join it to also has a reverse 2 degree bevel. All 90's would be preferable to me.

Old Brown glue

Cauls

Card scraper

And less glue, but if you do switch to the OBG you can then easily clean up any squeeze out with warm water, and not end up with a finishing nightmare.

Best of luck.


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## nickbatz (Mar 7, 2018)

Again, there is nothing wrong with the joints, they're not slipping, and they're 90˚ (I have a jointer, but they come S3S from the lumberyard anyway). The only issue is with my anus getting rankled by the glue.

But I'm going to use less glue and try Old Brown Glue.

Thanks!


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## ceabrm (Dec 29, 2016)

try to get back to the glue-up according to your experience with the glue you're using. if i get back to a piece i've glued about 60 minutes after, i can use a card scraper to scrape off the rubbery glue (tite bond iii) from the seam without a problem. if i forget and don't get back to it for a day - crap…all bets are off.

so i get alexa to remind me 

i've read that you can use wide painters tape along the edge of each piece, apply your glue and clamp. the glue squeeze out is spread along the tape and not the wood.

i also keep a case of baby wipes in the shop for wiping up glue. they work great, they're always ready, and they're good for wiping off sawdust. i don't get cheap ones, they just disintegrate.


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## bobnann (Apr 19, 2019)

I found a biscuit jointer at a yard sale for 20 bucks. With three tubes of Biscuits to boot. Looks like it was used once. Way simpler to use than dowels or a router. And I'm sure stronger than edge to edge.
And as mentioned above spread your glue evenly across the joint area, both boards. A glob here, A glob there misses a lot of surface area which means a weaker joint. 
Excess squeeze out means you're using too much glue! A little squeeze out, I let it dry and remove it gently with one of those old chisels I just couldn't get rid of.


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## nickbatz (Mar 7, 2018)

I'm starting to see the beginning of a pattern: I need to use less glue. 

Carol, good idea about Alexa. I just need to get her to stop playing the radio when I tell her to turn on the lights in my office with too little space after "Alexa…"


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