# Miter Saw Station



## Pyro (Dec 16, 2017)

Hey guys,

I'm getting ready to build a miter saw station in my new space. Couple questions:

1. I've seen some good arguments for t track stops with a fence and for t track stops without a fence. Those in favor of a fence say the flip stops are easier to get out of the way and they have no flat t track to collect dust. Those in favor of a fenceless station (Mark Spagnuolo etc) say you can build stops that still flip back and the dust isn't a problem for them. Seems most people agree that if you do use a fence, setting it back out of the way is the better option so that it never creates an alignment problem.

2. I'm right handed so I'm thinking that I should have a longer surface to my left and a shorter surface to my right. I have about 8 feet to work with. Makes sense in my head but I want to make sure.

Appreciate it!


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## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

With 8' of run, I'd split it 5' and 3'. I am also right handed and I put the larger section on the left, and it works for me.

As to rails, stops, and work holding after you decide on something, you may, or may not agree with yourself that you picked well. I have used all of the variants I have seen, or heard of, and I think that for speed of making cuts the deck with a positive ledge allows me to get stock in position faster, and so I use this. I tried no fence for clutter free, and it was like herding fish.

But there are different choices because someone loves them all. I'm not sure of how to tell someone else what they will like?


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## Pyro (Dec 16, 2017)

> With 8 of run, I d split it 5 and 3 . I am also right handed and I put the larger section on the left, and it works for me.
> 
> As to rails, stops, and work holding after you decide on something, you may, or may not agree with yourself that you picked well. I have used all of the variants I have seen, or heard of, and I think that for speed of making cuts the deck with a positive ledge allows me to get stock in position faster, and so I use this. I tried no fence for clutter free, and it was like herding fish.
> 
> ...


Thanks Steve, I really wanted the opinion of a guy who has tried both of them!


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## teetomterrific (May 30, 2017)

I've used both but I think the saw fence only method works best for me. I have a single T-Track in my current miter station which allows me to utilize the rest or the surface when not cutting. Since I rarely need more than one stop at a time for cutting I don't need flip stops for the miter station, (drilling is another story though).

Here is mine just after I finished building it.










I've been using it now for almost 3 years and the only the only thing I would like to change is the a better way to close the gap between the saw and the tops for when I need a stop in that location.


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## Pyro (Dec 16, 2017)

> I ve used both but I think the saw fence only method works best for me. I have a single T-Track in my current miter station which allows me to utilize the rest or the surface when not cutting. Since I rarely need more than one stop at a time for cutting I don t need flip stops for the miter station, (drilling is another story though).
> 
> Here is mine just after I finished building it.
> 
> ...


Very nice. What is your stop like? Just a piece of wood in the track? Does the box around the saw help with dust? Beautiful.


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## JackDuren (Oct 10, 2015)

The best stops I know of are the beisemeyer miter stops. The flip stops other than the really expensive ones tend to wiggle and aren't correct. Too much play…


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## teetomterrific (May 30, 2017)

The T-track is Peachtree heavy duty which uses a 3/8-16 bolt. The stop basic design is a block of wood with a dado in it and a 3/8 spline to keep it mostly parallel to the T-Track. There is a little bit of play so that I can get it square to what I'm cutting. I drilled out for the 3/8 bolt in the bottom with a 5/8" forstner bit and then a 3/8 hole for the bolt.










I put a canister under the miter saw and a big gulp so that it would catch what the 2.5" hose doesn't catch. It sort of works but not as well as I hoped. The hood in general does catch about 95% to 98% of the sawdust but a lot of it ends up behind the saw and needs to be swept into the big gulp or vacuumed up.


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

I built this one a couple of years ago and it has worked really well. So far there is nothing I would change. I incorporated the drill press in order to utilize the space under the table for the miter saw fence, I have t-track and flip stops.


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## JackDuren (Oct 10, 2015)

I'm in the fence group. I've used one more than most….a stop other than on the fence tend to move as will the t-track fence pictured above….


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## Pyro (Dec 16, 2017)

How do you guys feel about the adhesive tape measure? Useful or not?

Thanks, this has been very helpful.


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## Pyro (Dec 16, 2017)

> I m in the fence group. I ve used one more than most….a stop other than on the fence tend to move as will the t-track fence pictured above….
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## JackDuren (Oct 10, 2015)

We don't or I don't use flip stops. They tend to have too much flex , but now the expensive ones are okay. I used the cheap or you can use the kreg adhesive measuring tapes. Left or right they stick if placed with care …

I bought a flip down at a the KC woodworking show. Was not impressed after I put it on the the miter saw fence


















3


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## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

here's what i went with,im all for a fence myself with flip down stops,ive had no issues with them.this design has worked well for me.


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## JackDuren (Oct 10, 2015)

This one has worked well in the cabinet shop….I've seen this one used on a up cut saw…









(


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

> How do you guys feel about the adhesive tape measure? Useful or not?
> 
> Thanks, this has been very helpful.
> 
> - Pyro


Never use them.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

I have a very simple miter station but when I rebuild I'm going with something like this:


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