# Kitchen Island Project



## SeaQuest (Jun 2, 2008)

*First Steps Carcase Construction*

We've started a new kitchen island project. This will be interesting in many ways but for one, my wife and I are doing it together. She has recently developed an interest in learning woodworking and wants to try building the island with me.

I don't have any formal plans for this project. I searched the internet for free or paid plans but there isn't much for kitchen islands of this size and nothing similar to what we wanted. I drafted up the basic cabinetry with all the measurements and cut plans myself, but there will be a fair amount of design-as-we-go in this project.

First stage is complete with the carcase construction done. It's made from 3/4" double face oak ply. I used pocket hole joinery for all the assembly and am totally sold on it for cabinet construction where the pocket holes can be hidden. It makes things so much easier because you don't need a million clamps for the glue up. Everything was dead square.

We then cut dados and panels for the dust frame and vertical cabinet dividers. Did some redesign along the way. We were going to have an open bookcase for cook books in the middle but then realized the amount of wasted space in behind the cookbooks. That was when we decided to put a narrow cabinet in the middle specifically for cookie sheets, trays and all those annoying large flat objects that normally bang around in the drawer below the stove. Had I been thinking better, I would have kept the bookcase part open in the back so you could store books on both sides. However this will work well we like the idea of having a vertical cabinet for those trays.

The top will be much larger than the sub top you see here. The actual top will have a 12" overhang on the back of the cabinet to serve as an eating bar and also overhangs 8" on either side. There will be turned legs and I will be turning the door knobs myself on the lathe. The front will have a solid oak face frame with inset doors. At least thats the plan, lets see what it looks like when I'm done.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

SeaQuest said:


> *First Steps Carcase Construction*
> 
> We've started a new kitchen island project. This will be interesting in many ways but for one, my wife and I are doing it together. She has recently developed an interest in learning woodworking and wants to try building the island with me.
> 
> ...


good cabinet work ,look forward to more photos


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## Ottis (Apr 17, 2009)

SeaQuest said:


> *First Steps Carcase Construction*
> 
> We've started a new kitchen island project. This will be interesting in many ways but for one, my wife and I are doing it together. She has recently developed an interest in learning woodworking and wants to try building the island with me.
> 
> ...


I agree with Jim…very nice cabinet work. Keep the pictures coming, I look forward to seeing the completed project.


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## SeaQuest (Jun 2, 2008)

*Latest progress - June 21 2009*

Progress on the island has been slow due to a very busy work schedule. My wife and I worked on it this weekend. We installed the oak face trim and a 2×3 sub-base frame that will give the cabinet additional support on the bottom. Into that we installed the turned legs and began to install the 2" base skirt/trim that hides the sub-base frame. You can see the front piece of trim installed in the photo.

We cut all the rails and stiles for the raised panel doors, only to realize we forgot to include extra material on the rails for the coped tenon that goes into the stiles. We've never worked with rail and stile bits before so this will take some trial and error. We've also decided to go with European Blum hinges instead of the regular inset door hinges we originally planned. The extra easy adjustment of the Blums will make it easier to fine tune the gaps on the inset doors.

Putting the unit upright on it's 4 legs we were pleased that everything is dead level and no uneven legs.

Next step is to finish the base skirt trim and then start work on the raised panel doors.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

SeaQuest said:


> *Latest progress - June 21 2009*
> 
> Progress on the island has been slow due to a very busy work schedule. My wife and I worked on it this weekend. We installed the oak face trim and a 2×3 sub-base frame that will give the cabinet additional support on the bottom. Into that we installed the turned legs and began to install the 2" base skirt/trim that hides the sub-base frame. You can see the front piece of trim installed in the photo.
> 
> ...


Looks great Jim. I like those legs, they are a little different and in good proportion to the cabinet. Looking forward to see the finished product.


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## SeaQuest (Jun 2, 2008)

*Doors complete*

We worked on the cabinet doors for the kitchen island today. It was my first time using a rail and stile bit set. Took some experimenting but eventually we got them figured out and it worked nice. I'm pleased with the result. I found the secret to coping the ends of the rails was to use a coping sled on the router. It looks like this.



















We were originally going to use a raised panel door but decided to go with a flat panel. It matches our current kitchen doors and we liked the very simple and clean design.

This narrow door (the one still in clamps) is for the center of the cabinet. It will hold cookie sheets, pizza pans and all those assorted large metal trays that will be nicer to store vertically instead of laying on top of each other in the bottom of a drawer under the stove.










Another view of the joint. I went with a flat panel in the centre of the door instead of a raised panel. Shari liked this look better and it saves us a lot of oak.


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## Ottis (Apr 17, 2009)

SeaQuest said:


> *Doors complete*
> 
> We worked on the cabinet doors for the kitchen island today. It was my first time using a rail and stile bit set. Took some experimenting but eventually we got them figured out and it worked nice. I'm pleased with the result. I found the secret to coping the ends of the rails was to use a coping sled on the router. It looks like this.
> 
> ...


Great looking doors Jim…I can't wait to see the finished island. And I agree with the flat panels. While 90% of all the doors I make are raised panel….sometimes the clean looks of a flat panel door are just the ticket.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

SeaQuest said:


> *Doors complete*
> 
> We worked on the cabinet doors for the kitchen island today. It was my first time using a rail and stile bit set. Took some experimenting but eventually we got them figured out and it worked nice. I'm pleased with the result. I found the secret to coping the ends of the rails was to use a coping sled on the router. It looks like this.
> 
> ...


Looking great well done


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## woodworm (Jul 27, 2008)

SeaQuest said:


> *Doors complete*
> 
> We worked on the cabinet doors for the kitchen island today. It was my first time using a rail and stile bit set. Took some experimenting but eventually we got them figured out and it worked nice. I'm pleased with the result. I found the secret to coping the ends of the rails was to use a coping sled on the router. It looks like this.
> 
> ...


Nicely built doors.


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## KentS (May 27, 2009)

SeaQuest said:


> *Doors complete*
> 
> We worked on the cabinet doors for the kitchen island today. It was my first time using a rail and stile bit set. Took some experimenting but eventually we got them figured out and it worked nice. I'm pleased with the result. I found the secret to coping the ends of the rails was to use a coping sled on the router. It looks like this.
> 
> ...


Looks like you got the door thing down rather quickly. Good job.


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

SeaQuest said:


> *Doors complete*
> 
> We worked on the cabinet doors for the kitchen island today. It was my first time using a rail and stile bit set. Took some experimenting but eventually we got them figured out and it worked nice. I'm pleased with the result. I found the secret to coping the ends of the rails was to use a coping sled on the router. It looks like this.
> 
> ...


Some great looking doors. Nice job asnd a new skill


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## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

SeaQuest said:


> *Doors complete*
> 
> We worked on the cabinet doors for the kitchen island today. It was my first time using a rail and stile bit set. Took some experimenting but eventually we got them figured out and it worked nice. I'm pleased with the result. I found the secret to coping the ends of the rails was to use a coping sled on the router. It looks like this.
> 
> ...


I made my first door like this a few weeks ago, it was raised panel though. Once you figure out the mystery of it all and do the math so that it comes out right it's pretty satisfying to see come together. Nice job.

I like the little tutorial thing in there too. I saw lots of these sharing tips when I made mine. I think they're important to show that it's not magic, just magical. Thanks for sharing.


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## SeaQuest (Jun 2, 2008)

*Need your advice - finishing*

We are more than half way to completing this project and are now thinking about the finish we want to apply. I was originally thinking of a clear or orange tint shellac to keep the wood as close to natural as possible. However looking at it now, it's very light and might be better with a slight bit more colour. I hate finishing so I'm looking to take the easiest and most fool proof approach that will give me a nice look. I don't want a high gloss varathane, I like it to look and feel like wood, not plastic. I was thinking of a Natural or Golden Oak Danish Oil but still haven't written off Shellac. I'm looking for opinions. If this was your project, how would you finish it?

Jim


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

SeaQuest said:


> *Need your advice - finishing*
> 
> We are more than half way to completing this project and are now thinking about the finish we want to apply. I was originally thinking of a clear or orange tint shellac to keep the wood as close to natural as possible. However looking at it now, it's very light and might be better with a slight bit more colour. I hate finishing so I'm looking to take the easiest and most fool proof approach that will give me a nice look. I don't want a high gloss varathane, I like it to look and feel like wood, not plastic. I was thinking of a Natural or Golden Oak Danish Oil but still haven't written off Shellac. I'm looking for opinions. If this was your project, how would you finish it?
> 
> Jim


For cabinets I like wiping stain from Sherwin Williams and a clear water base on top .


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## Ottis (Apr 17, 2009)

SeaQuest said:


> *Need your advice - finishing*
> 
> We are more than half way to completing this project and are now thinking about the finish we want to apply. I was originally thinking of a clear or orange tint shellac to keep the wood as close to natural as possible. However looking at it now, it's very light and might be better with a slight bit more colour. I hate finishing so I'm looking to take the easiest and most fool proof approach that will give me a nice look. I don't want a high gloss varathane, I like it to look and feel like wood, not plastic. I was thinking of a Natural or Golden Oak Danish Oil but still haven't written off Shellac. I'm looking for opinions. If this was your project, how would you finish it?
> 
> Jim


I agree with Jim…I really like their wiping stains…what color is your existing cabinets ?? As far as color…I may be old fashioned…but I love "Golden Oak" as a stained color in a kitchen.


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

SeaQuest said:


> *Need your advice - finishing*
> 
> We are more than half way to completing this project and are now thinking about the finish we want to apply. I was originally thinking of a clear or orange tint shellac to keep the wood as close to natural as possible. However looking at it now, it's very light and might be better with a slight bit more colour. I hate finishing so I'm looking to take the easiest and most fool proof approach that will give me a nice look. I don't want a high gloss varathane, I like it to look and feel like wood, not plastic. I was thinking of a Natural or Golden Oak Danish Oil but still haven't written off Shellac. I'm looking for opinions. If this was your project, how would you finish it?
> 
> Jim


Jim, like Don I tend to favor using golden oak stain for my oak projects. This tone gives the wood a little color without overwhelming the grain. The danish oil that you are considering should do the job. Shellac will provide the island with surface protection but it does not handle exposure to water as well as poly does. If I were doing this, and did not anticipate water problems, I would go with several layers of a shellac topcoat over a golden oak stain.


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## eastside (Jun 21, 2009)

SeaQuest said:


> *Need your advice - finishing*
> 
> We are more than half way to completing this project and are now thinking about the finish we want to apply. I was originally thinking of a clear or orange tint shellac to keep the wood as close to natural as possible. However looking at it now, it's very light and might be better with a slight bit more colour. I hate finishing so I'm looking to take the easiest and most fool proof approach that will give me a nice look. I don't want a high gloss varathane, I like it to look and feel like wood, not plastic. I was thinking of a Natural or Golden Oak Danish Oil but still haven't written off Shellac. I'm looking for opinions. If this was your project, how would you finish it?
> 
> Jim


I built 3 pieces for my bathroom in Cherry and used wipe on polly by Minwax on 2 of them and a more expensive wipe on finish on the other with the same results. Fantastic. You will achieve what you want "I like it to look and feel like wood, not plastic". That's what I was looking for and I love it. It's been 2 years and the humidity hasn't touched it and the Cherry is aging well. Absolutely no build up in delicate corners and smooth as glass because you wipe it off a 220 sanded finish and it stays almost as smooth. Sometimes I'll steel wool if it starts to pick up dust. I am now doing my kitchen in Sapele and I'm using the Minwax Antique oil and it looks great. I went with the oil on this one because it does not have any polly in it, the wipe on polly by minwax will build up to that plastic look if you apply 8 coats. I say 8 coats because that's what I did to some natural birch doors and have a nice gloss and very smooth, the best I every did. I also don't like the finishing end and was looking for fool proof approach. I suggest to buy a small can of your choice Danish oil, minwax etc and do some test pieces. Mike


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

SeaQuest said:


> *Need your advice - finishing*
> 
> We are more than half way to completing this project and are now thinking about the finish we want to apply. I was originally thinking of a clear or orange tint shellac to keep the wood as close to natural as possible. However looking at it now, it's very light and might be better with a slight bit more colour. I hate finishing so I'm looking to take the easiest and most fool proof approach that will give me a nice look. I don't want a high gloss varathane, I like it to look and feel like wood, not plastic. I was thinking of a Natural or Golden Oak Danish Oil but still haven't written off Shellac. I'm looking for opinions. If this was your project, how would you finish it?
> 
> Jim


Shellac can create a "plastic" look just as any other finish and is not as durable as poly's and pro-grade catalyzed varnishes.

There is a huge misconception about film finishes looking like plastic. They look that way because people put them on too heavy and any film finish can be applied too heavy.

The safest method for the amateur to apply a finish is to use a wipe-on polyurethane because each layer goes on very thin. You will have to put on several coats (no less than 6) for good protection in the kitchen, but since the coats are thin they dry fairly quickly.

Brushing lays out the heaviest coats. I spray everything because it gives the best results, the coats are thinner than brushing and easier to control. Wipe-ons provide a good fall back for those that are just tapping into their finishing skills.

I used wipe-ons until I invested in a pro-grade pressure pot and now I spray everything with pre-catalyzed lacquers and conversion varnishes. I have also sprayed water borne lacquers, oil based and water based poly's as well. I always go back to the solvent based lacquers because of the speed and finish they give, which is great.

The most important thing here is that the "plasticy" look comes from finish being applied too thick more than anything else.


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## jlsmith5963 (Mar 26, 2009)

SeaQuest said:


> *Need your advice - finishing*
> 
> We are more than half way to completing this project and are now thinking about the finish we want to apply. I was originally thinking of a clear or orange tint shellac to keep the wood as close to natural as possible. However looking at it now, it's very light and might be better with a slight bit more colour. I hate finishing so I'm looking to take the easiest and most fool proof approach that will give me a nice look. I don't want a high gloss varathane, I like it to look and feel like wood, not plastic. I was thinking of a Natural or Golden Oak Danish Oil but still haven't written off Shellac. I'm looking for opinions. If this was your project, how would you finish it?
> 
> Jim


I agree with Todd. Don't apply your finish as if your a bricklayer laying mortar and your project won't end up looking like it's wrapped in plastic. Wipe-on/wipe-off products assist in building thin layers by the very nature of they way they are applied and therefore can be a great finish for those who are unsure of their finishing skills.


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## SeaQuest (Jun 2, 2008)

*Doors are installed*

The cabinet doors are now installed. I've got to say I love those Blum (European) Hinges. In this case I have inset doors so the gap around the doors is really finicky. The slightest deviation stands out like a K-Mart blue tag special that has a flashing light saying "He screwed up look here!" With the Blum Hingest you can quite literally "dial in" the desired gap and face depth. I also like the fact that the hinges are invisible when the door is closed. The trade-off is that the hinges are a little bulky on the inside but that's ok because it's the inside.

I also installed the Soft Self Closing Drawer Slides. They are really nice and super easy to install. I simply cut a 60 mm strip of 3/4" ply as a guide. I set it on the bottom of the drawer space along the side wall where the slide is going, then placed the slide on top. The ply strip temporarily holds the slide in place, nice and square. A few screws and it's done. The drawer slides will support 100 lbs and they are also self closing. That means you push the drawer most of the way but then in the last 2" it self retracts. Now my kids can't slam the drawers and they also can't leave them hanging slightly open.

I made a slight design change today. The face frame was originally to be flat and flush with the inset doors. It was bugging me because it looked like it was too plain and missing something. I installed a 3/4" x 1/4" strip of oak rounded over on the edges along the face frame between the doors and drawers as well as between each of the doors. I thought I would try it to see how it looks and instantly realized this is just what it needed. It gives some depth to the face of the cabinet.










Tomorrow, drawers and drawer faces.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

SeaQuest said:


> *Doors are installed*
> 
> The cabinet doors are now installed. I've got to say I love those Blum (European) Hinges. In this case I have inset doors so the gap around the doors is really finicky. The slightest deviation stands out like a K-Mart blue tag special that has a flashing light saying "He screwed up look here!" With the Blum Hingest you can quite literally "dial in" the desired gap and face depth. I also like the fact that the hinges are invisible when the door is closed. The trade-off is that the hinges are a little bulky on the inside but that's ok because it's the inside.
> 
> ...


Good progress looks great


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## Ottis (Apr 17, 2009)

SeaQuest said:


> *Doors are installed*
> 
> The cabinet doors are now installed. I've got to say I love those Blum (European) Hinges. In this case I have inset doors so the gap around the doors is really finicky. The slightest deviation stands out like a K-Mart blue tag special that has a flashing light saying "He screwed up look here!" With the Blum Hingest you can quite literally "dial in" the desired gap and face depth. I also like the fact that the hinges are invisible when the door is closed. The trade-off is that the hinges are a little bulky on the inside but that's ok because it's the inside.
> 
> ...


Very nice Jim, getting closer each day. and I agree about the oak round over strips…Even before I had read what you did, as I looked at the picture, I was thinking…."I like the edging".


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## woodworm (Jul 27, 2008)

SeaQuest said:


> *Doors are installed*
> 
> The cabinet doors are now installed. I've got to say I love those Blum (European) Hinges. In this case I have inset doors so the gap around the doors is really finicky. The slightest deviation stands out like a K-Mart blue tag special that has a flashing light saying "He screwed up look here!" With the Blum Hingest you can quite literally "dial in" the desired gap and face depth. I also like the fact that the hinges are invisible when the door is closed. The trade-off is that the hinges are a little bulky on the inside but that's ok because it's the inside.
> 
> ...


Great progress.
Do have reason for assembling it before applying the finish?


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## SeaQuest (Jun 2, 2008)

*Why didn't I pre-finish?*

Another LJ asked: Do you have reason for doing the assembly before applying the finish?

Yes, i did give that option some thought and here are my reasons for not finishing prior to assembly.

1. There are no "plans" for this project. I am designing as I go. As a result it's not possible to pre-cut all my pieces, apply finish and then assemble.

2. Without plans I avoid measuring cuts as much as possible, I use the already assembled parts to transfer my marks for cutting. As an example if I'm going to cut a piece of trim, I don't pull out a tape and measure the length, transfer the measurement to my piece, then cut. When i do that, often the workshop gremlins change the numbers on my ruler around because even though i measure twice and cut once … the piece still ends up too short. Instead I take the trim to the already assembled part where it will be installed and mark off the cuts. I find that approach is better for me with fewer errors. As a result of this there is no big stack of pieces all neatly cut to size. I cut as i build so to pre-finish means I would have to work with a can of finish by my side the whole time. I would also have to wait for the finish to dry on that part before moving onto the next part. With this project, that means I would be done in spring of 2034!

3. I've not had a lot of success with finishing prior to assembly. On projects where I've tried this, the finished pieces get coated in dust, get scratched or dinged while being knocked around in the shop. This means they need to have the finish cleaned or repaired after assembly. Dust in the finish has also been a problem for me when pre-finishing. I hate finishing so I don't want to do it twice!

4. When you prefinish you have to be very careful not to get finish on the joinery surfaces. I tend to forget that part and end up with finish on some joints which means a fix or replacement of the part.

5. In this project we want to showcase the natural beauty of the oak so we won't be using any stain. The final finish will likely be a natural danish oil which will be easy to apply after assembly.

I understand the advantages of finish before assembly and applaud those who do. However for me, as a general rule I sand to final grit, then assemble with finish applied last. Having said that i should add, with some projects, I will finish certain parts prior to assembly. This is the case when it would be difficult to access the area or awkward apply the finish afterwards, especially if using stain. An example of this is the interior of small boxes or areas with tight corners such as the interior of a bookcase.

I'm sure there are LJ's who wouldn't do it this way, but for me, pre-finishing wasn't an option with this project.

Hope that answers the question.

Jim


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

SeaQuest said:


> *Why didn't I pre-finish?*
> 
> Another LJ asked: Do you have reason for doing the assembly before applying the finish?
> 
> ...


Hey Jim
I agree with your approach prefinishing makes the whole project go smoother and for a better project.


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## Ottis (Apr 17, 2009)

SeaQuest said:


> *Why didn't I pre-finish?*
> 
> Another LJ asked: Do you have reason for doing the assembly before applying the finish?
> 
> ...


Good answer a Jim, I have and do it both ways…totally depending on the project at hand. Each has its advantages and disadvantages and must be taken into account for each project separately


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

SeaQuest said:


> *Why didn't I pre-finish?*
> 
> Another LJ asked: Do you have reason for doing the assembly before applying the finish?
> 
> ...


I often prefinish but do not take it to the final coat. I only apply the finish with the intention of sealing the surface or setting myself up so that I only need to add the final coat after assembly. This pulls it together visually and allows me to make any marks or scratches disappear that occurred during assembly.


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

SeaQuest said:


> *Why didn't I pre-finish?*
> 
> Another LJ asked: Do you have reason for doing the assembly before applying the finish?
> 
> ...


Jim, I have to agree with your philosophy. Finish is the last step in my woodworking routine. On rare occasions, such as a raised panel, I will apply some finish as a sealer but, as you said in 2, pre-finishing has invariably led to problems during the assembly process.


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## woodworm (Jul 27, 2008)

SeaQuest said:


> *Why didn't I pre-finish?*
> 
> Another LJ asked: Do you have reason for doing the assembly before applying the finish?
> 
> ...


Thanks Jim for answering my question.
I like your reason no #2. Me too have problem with reading the number on the ruler, memorize it and then transfer it onto the workpiece - silly error like 32cm read as 23cm is common. So I used to use story stick, as in your case the assembled part is your story stick.

Actually, I asked you this particular question because I have a 2-door cabinet project on hand which is still unfinished & unassembled. I've been thinking which should go first. If I assemble it first, the finishing work of the inside of the cabinet may not be easy and neat. Does the finish of the inside portion of a cabinet need to be very neat anyway? I don't know, maybe you and other LJs here have the answer.

And again thank you Jim for addressing my question.


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## SeaQuest (Jun 2, 2008)

SeaQuest said:


> *Why didn't I pre-finish?*
> 
> Another LJ asked: Do you have reason for doing the assembly before applying the finish?
> 
> ...


You're welcome Woodworm. You mean I'm not the only one who has workshop gremlins. The story stick or real world measurement also avoids those wonderful measurements like 22 5/32 + a smidge 

I'm no expert, there are LJ's here far more competent with finishing than I am but those are my reasons for this particular project. I usually do pre-finish the parts that make up the inside of a cabinet. If I try to finish after assembly, I typically end up with a congealed blob of finish tucked tightly into the corners. If you try to clean it out you end up messing up the flat surfaces adjacent to the corner. Then you clean up the flat surfaces and end up with goop in the corner again … it's a viscous circle


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## SeaQuest (Jun 2, 2008)

*Kickback up close and personal*

I've been woodworking for over 20 years and have never experienced kickback on the tablesaw. I've heard about it, seen video clips about it … but never experienced it … this was about to change.

I was completing the drawers for the kitchen island and had dry fit everything together. The drawers looked good so I went ahead and glued the joints. I was in the process of clamping when I noticed one of the drawers had a slight 1/16" gap in the joint. The panel for the base of the drawer was slightly too long and I didn't notice it in dry fit. It only appeared when I added the clamps. "Aw nuts!" I said to myself … ok my words were slightly different but lets stick with that for the blog.

The glue on the joints probably had several minutes before it would begin to set, so I had time. I whipped the drawer apart and slid out the 18"x20"x1/4" bottom panel. I quickly took it to the table saw. My Ridgid table saw has a wonderful guard and splitter that works well and goes on quickly without tools. I rarely use the saw without it but the last thing I had done was s dado so he guard was off. The clock was ticking on the glue covered joints over on the work bench. It's just a 1/16 trim cut off the edge I thought, so for the sake of time I positioned the fence and blade.

I switched the saw on and started the cut. I was about 3/4 of the way through when I felt something go wrong. The board had started to twist. There was NO chance to correct the situation. Suddenly there was a BANG as the panel was ripped from my hand, and at over 100 mph it impacted me right at the belt line. Bouncing off me it flew into the far wall of the shop. The blow knocked me back, hard, and threw me off balance. It felt like I had been hit by a truck!

I regained my balance and turned the saw off. Quickly assessing myself for injury, I realized that I was very lucky. The board had actually hit my leather belt. An inch higher or lower would have been really nasty. For a couple hours it was quite painful but now a day later, I'm still a bit bruised but I learned a valuable lesson about kickback.

My errors:

*I was in a rush!* It would have taken less than 30 seconds to mount the guard on the saw. *My attention wasn't completely focused on what I was doing*, I was distracted, thinking about the drawers and drying glue rather than on the panel I was running through the saw.

Here is a photo of the panel showing the classic arc that kickback causes. I'm going to stick this on the wall of my shop as a reminder!


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

SeaQuest said:


> *Kickback up close and personal*
> 
> I've been woodworking for over 20 years and have never experienced kickback on the tablesaw. I've heard about it, seen video clips about it … but never experienced it … this was about to change.
> 
> ...


got a few wall hangings myself ,
wood is replasable ,
tools are replasable ,

body parts are NOT .

take your time to be safe .


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## Ottis (Apr 17, 2009)

SeaQuest said:


> *Kickback up close and personal*
> 
> I've been woodworking for over 20 years and have never experienced kickback on the tablesaw. I've heard about it, seen video clips about it … but never experienced it … this was about to change.
> 
> ...


Man that looks nasty. Quick question….I know you addressed the "I was in a hurry and not paying attention" part….but did you remove the glue from the panel before putting it in the saw ??


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## SeaQuest (Jun 2, 2008)

SeaQuest said:


> *Kickback up close and personal*
> 
> I've been woodworking for over 20 years and have never experienced kickback on the tablesaw. I've heard about it, seen video clips about it … but never experienced it … this was about to change.
> 
> ...


There was no glue on the bottom panel, it was free floating. I never glue panels into the bottom of a drawer to allow for wood movement. Gluing it in can cause the drawer to warp and even worse, pull itself apart over time.


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## bigdave (May 29, 2009)

SeaQuest said:


> *Kickback up close and personal*
> 
> I've been woodworking for over 20 years and have never experienced kickback on the tablesaw. I've heard about it, seen video clips about it … but never experienced it … this was about to change.
> 
> ...


Ouch! Glad you're OK man. Thanks for the lesson.


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## Ottis (Apr 17, 2009)

SeaQuest said:


> *Kickback up close and personal*
> 
> I've been woodworking for over 20 years and have never experienced kickback on the tablesaw. I've heard about it, seen video clips about it … but never experienced it … this was about to change.
> 
> ...


Sent you a pm Jim.

What I meant to say was did you check to see of any glue had gotten "onto" the panel when you took it apart…this happend to me once. Took something apart for a small trim…got some glue on it and did not notice….when I put it through the saw the glue kind of drug on the saw bed causing it to bind up as I pushed which caused a massive kick back.


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## rustfever (May 3, 2009)

SeaQuest said:


> *Kickback up close and personal*
> 
> I've been woodworking for over 20 years and have never experienced kickback on the tablesaw. I've heard about it, seen video clips about it … but never experienced it … this was about to change.
> 
> ...


It takes only one kick-back to make a believer out of a woorworker.
Ira


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

SeaQuest said:


> *Kickback up close and personal*
> 
> I've been woodworking for over 20 years and have never experienced kickback on the tablesaw. I've heard about it, seen video clips about it … but never experienced it … this was about to change.
> 
> ...


Hey Jim
That was a close one .I think you know what you did wrong besides rushing but for those who don't know .It looks like you were free handing a cross cut with the thin part of the cut pinched between the blade and the fence, as I'm sure you know it's much safer to cut the thin side of the board so it's fall of and not wedged between the blade and fence. The other thing that would have helped is to use a sled or miter gauge. I'm sure the biggest factor was rushing, we all are guilty of that sometimes it can be very costly to our health.


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## SeaQuest (Jun 2, 2008)

SeaQuest said:


> *Kickback up close and personal*
> 
> I've been woodworking for over 20 years and have never experienced kickback on the tablesaw. I've heard about it, seen video clips about it … but never experienced it … this was about to change.
> 
> ...


Hi Jim, nope I had the thin part of the cut 1/8" on the outside of the blade. I didn't use a mitre guage because the long side of the panel (20") was riding against the fence.


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## JenWoodworking (Dec 29, 2009)

SeaQuest said:


> *Kickback up close and personal*
> 
> I've been woodworking for over 20 years and have never experienced kickback on the tablesaw. I've heard about it, seen video clips about it … but never experienced it … this was about to change.
> 
> ...


Ouch, thanks for the reminder 
and also the tip about not glueing the bottom panel on a drawer, thanks.


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## SeaQuest (Jun 2, 2008)

SeaQuest said:


> *Kickback up close and personal*
> 
> I've been woodworking for over 20 years and have never experienced kickback on the tablesaw. I've heard about it, seen video clips about it … but never experienced it … this was about to change.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the tip but I've never glued in the bottom panel on a drawer.


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## SeaQuest (Jun 2, 2008)

*Drawer Faces Complete*

Again another deviation from my original design. I was going to go with flat oak drawer faces. We decided to mimic the rail and stiles of the doors just a little slimmer with a centre oak panel. We did that, not without problems. I goofed on my first round of rail and stiles because I measured the exact length of the rails, neglecting to take into account the 1/2" tenon on both ends used by the rail and stile bits. Fortunately I had just enough wood left over to make a new set with about 2" to spare.

Needless to say every cut was measured and tested 100 times before making the cut. You could see beads of sweat on my forehead as I routed the profiles knowing there was zero room for error. I know I know, if worse came to worse I could have made another trip to the lumber shop but you guys know the feeling.

Here is a photo of the current status. The drawer gaps look off in the photo, I think that is due to lighting. I used a technique I learned here … I positioned the drawer face with doublesided tape and business cards to set the gaps. It worked like a charm. The gaps are all 4 business cards wide … I think that's roughly 3/16" but at least they are equal. Don't know who posted that tip but my thanks if you happen to read this.

Next step is finish sanding then on to the large 36×60" top with a 12" eating bar along the back edge.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

SeaQuest said:


> *Drawer Faces Complete*
> 
> Again another deviation from my original design. I was going to go with flat oak drawer faces. We decided to mimic the rail and stiles of the doors just a little slimmer with a centre oak panel. We did that, not without problems. I goofed on my first round of rail and stiles because I measured the exact length of the rails, neglecting to take into account the 1/2" tenon on both ends used by the rail and stile bits. Fortunately I had just enough wood left over to make a new set with about 2" to spare.
> 
> ...


Looking great Jim a little finsh and your there.


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

SeaQuest said:


> *Drawer Faces Complete*
> 
> Again another deviation from my original design. I was going to go with flat oak drawer faces. We decided to mimic the rail and stiles of the doors just a little slimmer with a centre oak panel. We did that, not without problems. I goofed on my first round of rail and stiles because I measured the exact length of the rails, neglecting to take into account the 1/2" tenon on both ends used by the rail and stile bits. Fortunately I had just enough wood left over to make a new set with about 2" to spare.
> 
> ...


This does look pretty good, Jim. At this point in a cabinetry project I start getting an adrenaline rush and push myself since the completion of the project is in sight.


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## SeaQuest (Jun 2, 2008)

SeaQuest said:


> *Drawer Faces Complete*
> 
> Again another deviation from my original design. I was going to go with flat oak drawer faces. We decided to mimic the rail and stiles of the doors just a little slimmer with a centre oak panel. We did that, not without problems. I goofed on my first round of rail and stiles because I measured the exact length of the rails, neglecting to take into account the 1/2" tenon on both ends used by the rail and stile bits. Fortunately I had just enough wood left over to make a new set with about 2" to spare.
> 
> ...


I'm getting there Scott, can't wait to get it in the kitchen. Partly so I can see it finished and start using it and partly so I can move on to other things.


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## Ottis (Apr 17, 2009)

SeaQuest said:


> *Drawer Faces Complete*
> 
> Again another deviation from my original design. I was going to go with flat oak drawer faces. We decided to mimic the rail and stiles of the doors just a little slimmer with a centre oak panel. We did that, not without problems. I goofed on my first round of rail and stiles because I measured the exact length of the rails, neglecting to take into account the 1/2" tenon on both ends used by the rail and stile bits. Fortunately I had just enough wood left over to make a new set with about 2" to spare.
> 
> ...


Looks great Jim….almost there. Can't wait to see the finished project.


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## jlsmith5963 (Mar 26, 2009)

SeaQuest said:


> *Drawer Faces Complete*
> 
> Again another deviation from my original design. I was going to go with flat oak drawer faces. We decided to mimic the rail and stiles of the doors just a little slimmer with a centre oak panel. We did that, not without problems. I goofed on my first round of rail and stiles because I measured the exact length of the rails, neglecting to take into account the 1/2" tenon on both ends used by the rail and stile bits. Fortunately I had just enough wood left over to make a new set with about 2" to spare.
> 
> ...


Watch out for that 'adrenaline rush'... the term 'rush' should always be preceded by 'don't' (rush) when your talking about finishing. Good luck on the finishing.


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## SeaQuest (Jun 2, 2008)

*The Kitchen Island is DONE!!*

We put in a full day yesterday constructing the top and routing the edging. Then we did the finish sanding and applied several coats of Danish Oil Natural finish. The top is removable which was needed to get this beastie into the kitchen. It's about 300 lbs of oak so took 4 of us to move it. When I applied the Danish Oil, we had a few while blotches about the size of a quarter appear. It was entirely on the oak ply panels. A light sanding and reapplication of Danish Oil on those spots resolved that problem. Must have been something on the wood. Anyway, here it is, after 6 weeks of work. We are quite happy with the results.

The drawers are self closing and the narrow centre cabinet is for storing cookie sheets and all those large, flat, awkward to store items that you struggle with storing in other places. The unit itself is 36" high which is a standard height so it works well with bar stools you can find anywhere.










The ends of the unit have a 9" overhang as part of the eating bar.










The oak braces are merely for decoration. The top is 1.5" thick and needs no support. The back overhang is 12" which makes for comfortable sitting.


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## Ottis (Apr 17, 2009)

SeaQuest said:


> *The Kitchen Island is DONE!!*
> 
> We put in a full day yesterday constructing the top and routing the edging. Then we did the finish sanding and applied several coats of Danish Oil Natural finish. The top is removable which was needed to get this beastie into the kitchen. It's about 300 lbs of oak so took 4 of us to move it. When I applied the Danish Oil, we had a few while blotches about the size of a quarter appear. It was entirely on the oak ply panels. A light sanding and reapplication of Danish Oil on those spots resolved that problem. Must have been something on the wood. Anyway, here it is, after 6 weeks of work. We are quite happy with the results.
> 
> ...


Wow Jim…it turned out GREAT…good job and well done, something to be proud of !!!!


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## spanky46 (Feb 12, 2009)

SeaQuest said:


> *The Kitchen Island is DONE!!*
> 
> We put in a full day yesterday constructing the top and routing the edging. Then we did the finish sanding and applied several coats of Danish Oil Natural finish. The top is removable which was needed to get this beastie into the kitchen. It's about 300 lbs of oak so took 4 of us to move it. When I applied the Danish Oil, we had a few while blotches about the size of a quarter appear. It was entirely on the oak ply panels. A light sanding and reapplication of Danish Oil on those spots resolved that problem. Must have been something on the wood. Anyway, here it is, after 6 weeks of work. We are quite happy with the results.
> 
> ...


Very impressive Jim!


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## Kindlingmaker (Sep 29, 2008)

SeaQuest said:


> *The Kitchen Island is DONE!!*
> 
> We put in a full day yesterday constructing the top and routing the edging. Then we did the finish sanding and applied several coats of Danish Oil Natural finish. The top is removable which was needed to get this beastie into the kitchen. It's about 300 lbs of oak so took 4 of us to move it. When I applied the Danish Oil, we had a few while blotches about the size of a quarter appear. It was entirely on the oak ply panels. A light sanding and reapplication of Danish Oil on those spots resolved that problem. Must have been something on the wood. Anyway, here it is, after 6 weeks of work. We are quite happy with the results.
> 
> ...


Your project turned out very well, very well indeed! Great Job! Just in case you decide that it does not fit your kitchen you can put it mine, no my living room ; )


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## Mario (Apr 23, 2007)

SeaQuest said:


> *The Kitchen Island is DONE!!*
> 
> We put in a full day yesterday constructing the top and routing the edging. Then we did the finish sanding and applied several coats of Danish Oil Natural finish. The top is removable which was needed to get this beastie into the kitchen. It's about 300 lbs of oak so took 4 of us to move it. When I applied the Danish Oil, we had a few while blotches about the size of a quarter appear. It was entirely on the oak ply panels. A light sanding and reapplication of Danish Oil on those spots resolved that problem. Must have been something on the wood. Anyway, here it is, after 6 weeks of work. We are quite happy with the results.
> 
> ...


That looks great. Nice job and looks at home in the house.


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