# Is MDF good enough for a huge toolbox?



## abadr (Oct 22, 2009)

Hi,
I was wondering if MDF is a suitable material for building 2 HUGE tool box that will carry my auto, metal and woodworking tools. The tools will range form spanners to routers and angle grinders. I'm considering MDF because they'll be painted mimicking the look of metal toolboxes. The tool boxes will run on 5" casters and will be pushed around a bit around the workshop.

Dimensions are roughly 70"h x 40"w x 30"d. It will have many drawers of different sizes and a cabinet at the top. I'm thinking of using ¾" or 1" MDF for the carcase rabbet jointed and 1/2" for the drawers.

I haven't used MDF before for such a heavy loading carcase, so my questions are:
1) Will the sides be strong enough to hold the weight and handle being pushed around?
2) Will the drawer slider's screws under the weight of the tools they carry eventually pull out of the MDF?

Any suggestions or opinions ares appreciated


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## BobG (Apr 17, 2010)

Abadr, you shouldn't have any problem with the case of the tool box. I would put a divider upright in the center of the box, sort of a separator between drawers. Also a couple, they used to call them dust shields, horizontally to keep it from racking. MDF is fairly tough stuff. That would be similar to the roll around Machinist chests they make. One more thing, be sure and build a good base.


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

i would not use mdf…if your going to paint these, i would use birch plywood..and i would use at least 1/2 ply for the back, but if it were me..i would go 3/4 all the way…with the heavy tools you will have…you only want to make these tool boxes once…you wont regret it….good luck…and post your projects when your done, i would like to see how they come out.


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## canadianchips (Mar 12, 2010)

I would NOT use MDF. 
"but I hate building ANYTHING out of sawdust particles"
I would pay a few more dollars and use Baltic birch plywood.


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## TheOldTimer (Dec 13, 2009)

I have been using MDF for various projects since it was first introduced (yes I am that Old) and have never had a failure with it. All my shop cabinets are constructed with MDF inclusing the drawers. They have been in use at this house for the last 16 years and have never failed. At my age, the only problem I have with it is the weight. I now use birch plywood for my projects. Dust collection is a must when using the product along with a good dust mask. It is also very hard on cutting tools.


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

MDF "sucks" 
Use plywood.


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## tooldad (Mar 24, 2008)

I would use plywood, however about 8 years ago, MDF is all I could afford since I had it on hand from a lumber yard auction. So that's what I made my toolbox out of.

It has been to 3 different houses and even the drawers are mdf. Holding up fine. However it is a beast when loaded to roll around. My cabinet is 3ft wide, 4ft tall and 16" deep


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## Pop (Aug 6, 2007)

I've worked with MDF for years, very tough & sturdy stuff. "JUST DON'T GET IT WET" If you would like to know what wet MDF looks like picture a wet bag of saw dust. I would stay away from 1 in. it's ungodly heavy to handle. The suggestion about central uprights is a good one.


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## beckerswoodworks (Dec 26, 2009)

I wouldn't touch MDF for something portable, it's way too heavy. I'd stick with a cheap hardwood like poplar, or just use plywood if I wanted to cut costs.


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## abadr (Oct 22, 2009)

Thank you guys for the great insight. I didn't take into account the weight issue. I'll go with plywood to save on the weight especially since it will be loaded with heavy tools.

A question about the longevity of plywood: Since I'll be priming and painting it do I still need to edge it with wood?


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

I mhope this link can inspire you when you make plywood box´s 
the plywood is thin and the way they are build can hold up to the abuse
for many years and has been in the rainy wether we have I Denmark
here is the link not from the maker of them just to give you the idea

http://www.vvshandel.dk/shop/plyfa-traekasser-59299c1.html

good luck
Dennis


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

No.


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## beckerswoodworks (Dec 26, 2009)

The edges will be a little stronger and take paint much better if you edge them with solid wood. It's up to you how nice you want it to look initially but since it's it's going to take a lot of abuse no matter what I wouldn't bother with it myself.


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## Pop (Aug 6, 2007)

The quick cheap way to edge shop furniture plywood is to use screen door molding. I've used it in my shop for many years & if it tears up because of abuse just strip it off & replace it.


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## DrDirt (Feb 26, 2008)

Huge + MDF = no

Actually to me it is the movable issue. Once this is loaded with a gazillion tons of tools, the racking of this thing whenever it bumps a crack, or wood scrap on the floor it is going to loosen up- especially around the casters


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## RetiredCoastie (Sep 7, 2009)

I used MDF for my mini lathe cabinet made from plans from WOOD magazine that called for all MDF construction except for the drawers and doors and it has held up for several years of daily movement around the shop. With that said like others in this post MDF is extremely heavy and does require careful joinery especially when using screws. If I were to build another cabinet I wouldn't use MDF due to the moisture issue, it's weight vs strength when compared to plywood. MDF is great for built up counter tops due to it's density and it's stability. In the Pacific North West I have found that MDF is just as expensive as Birch Plywood (blemished seconds) (not Baltic birch) at SHURWAY Plywood store here in Portland Or. For anything that isn't going to have a natural finish but is painted I use the blemished sheets which usually only have issues in the cover ply which can be worked around. The blemished plywood sells for $24.00 13/16" x 49" x 97", MDF is $25.00 a sheet.
Good luck A.B.!


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## Just_Iain (Apr 5, 2017)

I'd vote for plywood and would question if you need some means to avoid racking. Could anyone with experience suggest if framework or a torsion box in the back would be better.


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## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

*NO* :<))


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## pontic (Sep 25, 2016)

There is also a material called MDO. It is essentialy paper coater exterior grade plywood. No voids. The US park service uses it for signage. Menard's sells it. Very strong and tough. Paints like a charm.


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

I second using MDO. It is a bit more expensive and isn't carried by most lumber dealers. You would have to go to someone who is in the sign business and buy it from them, but that can get very expensive. A cheaper version of MDO is used for concrete forms and is available readily. It too is water resistant.


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## Desert_Woodworker (Jan 28, 2015)

I like and use MDF- This project was a light version of MDF 









Dimensions 24×96" and make sure that you use good casters….. Also, there is an exterior MDF for exterior use. I use a product called Medex MDF.


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## BigYin (Oct 14, 2011)

no use marine ply, baltic birch ply or similar
reinforcing internal corners with triangular 2" by 2" hardwood fillets and screws wont hurt either
engeneering overkill is best way to make toolboxes


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

FYI 2010 thread bumped by a noob. If the guy hasn't decided by now on what to use he never will, LOL.


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## geekwoodworker (May 27, 2014)

I built this tool chest from scrap 2×6 and it is very heavy. http://lumberjocks.com/projects/101837. No plywood and no MDF and it works great.

Good luck


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## Desert_Woodworker (Jan 28, 2015)

> I built this tool chest from scrap 2×6 and it is very heavy. http://lumberjocks.com/projects/101837. No plywood and no MDF and it works great.


Woodworking at its finest! Nice job.

as an aside- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Henry_O._Studley








Enjoy…


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

If you think you the bench might get a jug of antifreeze or oil spilled on it, I would probably go with MDO plywood, as you get the phenolic paper face for a non-porouse, dead flat surface that takes a painted finish extremely well. And you get the strength of plywood with a high number of veneered layers. Runs about $55 a sheet for 3/4.

I've got nothing against MDF, when used in an appropriate application, but if it gets soaked, it will pucker and swell.


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