# Joinery Bench



## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*Starting off with the basics: getting Stanley #8 ready*

And so I start my next project, a joinery bench. 36" wide by 24" deep. Will be using laminated douglas fir 4.5" or 5" thick (depending on how things go with the 2×12's I bought) with 8/4 hard maple apron and front vise chop. 4"x6" for legs and 4"x4" for stretchers. Unsure yet for a trestle style base or straight legs. Already ordered Benchcraft Moxon vise hardware.
I am going to try to use (mostly) hand tools instead of machinery for this project. I'll try my best to do a good job.
And for that, I need to get my Stanley #8 in shape. A rebuild / restore is in order. Same for my #5 Jack Plane for scrubbing and finally get to use my saw vise that I built over a year ago but never used for sharpening hand saws I have. Should be fun all around! I'll keep a running blog to give those who are getting into hand tools some idea of the pain, blood, frustration, and joy I am getting from this, start to finish. 
First up is the Stanley #8. A couple years ago, I restored a green craftsman block plane and a Stanley #4 to get some experience so I know what I'm getting into for this much larger plane. I do not plan to restore to heirloom quality but more a nice user.


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## Dwain (Nov 1, 2007)

Holbs said:


> *Starting off with the basics: getting Stanley #8 ready*
> 
> And so I start my next project, a joinery bench. 36" wide by 24" deep. Will be using laminated douglas fir 4.5" or 5" thick (depending on how things go with the 2×12's I bought) with 8/4 hard maple apron and front vise chop. 4"x6" for legs and 4"x4" for stretchers. Unsure yet for a trestle style base or straight legs. Already ordered Benchcraft Moxon vise hardware.
> I am going to try to use (mostly) hand tools instead of machinery for this project. I'll try my best to do a good job.
> ...


Thanks for sharing. I just got my hands on a type 12 corrugated number 7, dirty but all original. I hope one day to find a type 12 number 8. At least one that won't cost me $200.00. I look forward to following your blog.

Thanks for sharing,


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Holbs said:


> *Starting off with the basics: getting Stanley #8 ready*
> 
> And so I start my next project, a joinery bench. 36" wide by 24" deep. Will be using laminated douglas fir 4.5" or 5" thick (depending on how things go with the 2×12's I bought) with 8/4 hard maple apron and front vise chop. 4"x6" for legs and 4"x4" for stretchers. Unsure yet for a trestle style base or straight legs. Already ordered Benchcraft Moxon vise hardware.
> I am going to try to use (mostly) hand tools instead of machinery for this project. I'll try my best to do a good job.
> ...


That's a true Carrier Deck, right? Love the No. 8, it's a beast of a plane. Mouth damage, but shouldn't impact performance. Someone from 'way back when' must have bit off a little too much with it. Woods looks good! Get 'er sharpened up and fettled, see what it can do!


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*Stanley #8 and Stanley #40 all set to get to work on roughing lumber.*

I had a rough time with the Stanley #8: the frog wiggled, was not square, was not flat, chip breaker is either not original or something else but I had to take off 1/8" of chip breaker so that both blade & breaker would retract fully. Was a good learning experience on how to make things right with a plane. For the Stanley #40, it had original squared blade. Took time to figure out about camber but I went with 4" at a 30 degree bevel angle. How to ensure you are close to your desired bevel angle on a camber? I kept my fowler protractor at 30 degrees and kept using it as reference every so often. Lots of sandpaper involved, felt good to use my diamond stones again, felt like I accomplished something. I will wait to really refurbish all my hand planes that I have to clean up. I'll get them going as users for now, and when it comes time to refurb, I will dismantle and take them all to a shop that can blast them in one go with crushed walnut shells I believe.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*Next up...understanding hand saws!*

When you jump into the hand planing realm, it has come to my attention that I would need good quality home made winding sticks. Sure I can buy them from Woodpecker or somewhere, but that does not give me experience that I'm chasing after. To cut the wood for winding sticks, I need a hand saw for that. Since I've been spoiled with my table saws, I have not done anything to my assorted collection of hand saws. That is about to change. I'll be cherry picking the best couple hand saws to get into shape and taking a couple days to learn difference between rip and crosscut saws, saw teeth set, etc. Here is my current collection I have gathered (not shown are my Veritas tenon and dovetails saws) and finally get to use my saw vise I made in Lumberjock project section.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*saw cleaning*

What a beautiful Saturday to….sand even more! Sanded with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. The real bad saw plates I have cooking in my electrolysis tub on at a time. So far, I can only see etchings of a Pax backsaw and Disston 98. This is ongoing  But needs to get done. More saws to clean up and sharpen. Not going to do all saws, of course. Just the ones that look like keepers. I figure, 4 panel saws (2 rip / 2 crosscut), 2 or 3 backsaws.
I have a couple that have serious caked on gunk like this one that is in the electro tub:








But these ones I hand sanded:


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *saw cleaning*
> 
> What a beautiful Saturday to….sand even more! Sanded with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. The real bad saw plates I have cooking in my electrolysis tub on at a time. So far, I can only see etchings of a Pax backsaw and Disston 98. This is ongoing  But needs to get done. More saws to clean up and sharpen. Not going to do all saws, of course. Just the ones that look like keepers. I figure, 4 panel saws (2 rip / 2 crosscut), 2 or 3 backsaws.
> I have a couple that have serious caked on gunk like this one that is in the electro tub:
> ...


update 5 hours later. Looks like the 2 disston saws (#23 and #95) look the best for straightness and all their teeth. The Pax backsaw looks perfect. All the others I had, some where missing teeth or kinks. I was able to identify the 5 backsaws, all from Sheffield local manufactures. Rather interesting about the history. I am unsure how many saws and different types I should have in my arsenal. I hope it's not like clamps


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## summerfi (Oct 12, 2013)

Holbs said:


> *saw cleaning*
> 
> What a beautiful Saturday to….sand even more! Sanded with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. The real bad saw plates I have cooking in my electrolysis tub on at a time. So far, I can only see etchings of a Pax backsaw and Disston 98. This is ongoing  But needs to get done. More saws to clean up and sharpen. Not going to do all saws, of course. Just the ones that look like keepers. I figure, 4 panel saws (2 rip / 2 crosscut), 2 or 3 backsaws.
> I have a couple that have serious caked on gunk like this one that is in the electro tub:
> ...


It looks like you're doing a fine job on the saws Holb. Good work. I'd like to see the other Sheffield made backsaws.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *saw cleaning*
> 
> What a beautiful Saturday to….sand even more! Sanded with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. The real bad saw plates I have cooking in my electrolysis tub on at a time. So far, I can only see etchings of a Pax backsaw and Disston 98. This is ongoing  But needs to get done. More saws to clean up and sharpen. Not going to do all saws, of course. Just the ones that look like keepers. I figure, 4 panel saws (2 rip / 2 crosscut), 2 or 3 backsaws.
> I have a couple that have serious caked on gunk like this one that is in the electro tub:
> ...


I'll have to add my saws to that 'saw thread' , Bob.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*First time jointing and sharping a hand saw: success! I think*

Thanks to Brit for his step by step method of sharping hand saws. Has really helped me alot, along with Paul Sellers vids as well.
My Veritas saw jointer and Veritas angle file holder arrived today along with the roll of saw files. Went right to work on a rip saw. This saw is a 5 1/2 PPI and started off with 0 degree rake. I changed to a 7 degree rake. Took about 3 hours as this saw has never been sharpened in 50 years I bet. Next time it should take half of that.
I still have to measure the plate to determine the teeth set angle and do a light re-joint. Already, the teeth are 50 times sharper than when I found this saw. I'm happy. Had to use those jewelry magnification glasses to really see how things were going along.
Also next time, I think I'll wear gloves. Pushing the file so often does wonders for the palm of the hand and fingers.


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## rad457 (Jun 15, 2013)

Holbs said:


> *First time jointing and sharping a hand saw: success! I think*
> 
> Thanks to Brit for his step by step method of sharping hand saws. Has really helped me alot, along with Paul Sellers vids as well.
> My Veritas saw jointer and Veritas angle file holder arrived today along with the roll of saw files. Went right to work on a rip saw. This saw is a 5 1/2 PPI and started off with 0 degree rake. I changed to a 7 degree rake. Took about 3 hours as this saw has never been sharpened in 50 years I bet. Next time it should take half of that.
> ...


Something I need to get serious about learning! Quite the Saw vise.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*Rip and Crosscut handsaws reshaped and sharpened for use*

My finger aches and blisters can attest to my lack of experience when it comes to reshaping handsaw teeth and sharpening. Of course, the rip saw was easy since no fleam. Crosscut took awhile. And I messed up the rake on the crosscut as I forgot to change from 7 degrees to 12. Oh well… it's going to stay that way for a long long time.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

Holbs said:


> *Rip and Crosscut handsaws reshaped and sharpened for use*
> 
> My finger aches and blisters can attest to my lack of experience when it comes to reshaping handsaw teeth and sharpening. Of course, the rip saw was easy since no fleam. Crosscut took awhile. And I messed up the rake on the crosscut as I forgot to change from 7 degrees to 12. Oh well… it's going to stay that way for a long long time.


Bust out the workmate! It's time to cut something.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Rip and Crosscut handsaws reshaped and sharpened for use*
> 
> My finger aches and blisters can attest to my lack of experience when it comes to reshaping handsaw teeth and sharpening. Of course, the rip saw was easy since no fleam. Crosscut took awhile. And I messed up the rake on the crosscut as I forgot to change from 7 degrees to 12. Oh well… it's going to stay that way for a long long time.


I had to buy this Workmate 425 because I started filing with my saw vise on my workbench which, of all places, resides in my living room. A couple strokes with the metal file told me NOT to have metal filing hanging around ontop of my Pergo hardwood floor  Wanted to do some stuff outside at times and after watching Brit's 2 1/2 hour long youtube video on saw sharpening, he gave me idea of using the workmate outside. Of course, it's 30 degrees outside here so for now it is in the garage.
I then tried to attempt the Paul Seller's winding sticks. I should of known….I am really bad at following a line. Time and experience will help with that but yet it's still frustrating.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*Testing out newly sharpened Rip and Crosscut saws on 4"x6"*

I wanted to see how these newly sharpened saws cut through wood. I have a 8' piece of 4"x6" and cut 4 pieces at 20" lengths. And I wanted to see how straight I could now cut with properly tuned saws (no such thing as a straight line any other time in my past with saws). I'm happy! I followed the line around nearly perfect, maybe a 16th off here or there. I think that is not too shabby for this bulk of material. Used the rip saw for 20% of the cutting, crosscut for 80% just to feel the difference.
I actually decided 20" lengths because it occurred to me that if I am getting into hand sawing, I best make a saw bench.
I am currently using my two cabinet saws to do this cutting


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*creating a split top saw bench*

Now that I have my hand saws in order (rip, crosscut, veritas rip & crosscut tenon saws, and dovetail saws… I will be working on my other backsaws after a time), I need a place to really start sawing. I need a saw bench! The only spare lumber laying around is some 4"x6""....so…. 
I do not trust myself doing fancy joinery as of yet. So went with double bridle joints (no dovetails…but will peg these guys). All lumber was dimensioned with machinery as I do not trust myself with dimensioning this massive of lumber just yet either. Bridle joint kerfs made via bandsaw. Chopping out was done via hand (which took all afternoon and evening and yet it was… relaxing).
Tomorrow, gotta do the feet. Unsure if put on BLO or shellac. I have this old vice that I snagged at an auction long ago and would really like to put it on here somehow. Already have moxon vice hardware in a box for the joinery bench. And when I do a true workbench, I'll probably go Benchcraft parts. So what to do with this vice..hmm…..


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*Finished saw bench...whew. Now can hand saw with delight.*

Now I can soon hand saw pieces for my joinery bench. HUGE difference between 20" height & body mass over the blade instead of waist level when it comes to hand sawing.
First time going to town with chopping extra large mortises and bridal joints. Came out ok though could of done much better.
Did not use any stretchers or drawbore pins, just glue. This is not exactly heirloom quality so do not expect it to be around in 50 years


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*I have more planes than I thought...*

I wanted to rehab a #7, #5 and #4 1/2 Stanley's in preparation of dimensioning lumber starting this week. I was unsure what I had so pulled out every metal hand plane (not counting wooden planes or specialty planes) to check my inventory from all the auctions and garage sales I've been hitting for $5-$10 per lot. Hmm.. I think I'm set for volume of needed handplanes:


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## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

Holbs said:


> *I have more planes than I thought...*
> 
> I wanted to rehab a #7, #5 and #4 1/2 Stanley's in preparation of dimensioning lumber starting this week. I was unsure what I had so pulled out every metal hand plane (not counting wooden planes or specialty planes) to check my inventory from all the auctions and garage sales I've been hitting for $5-$10 per lot. Hmm.. I think I'm set for volume of needed handplanes:


I try never to get all of mine lined up like that. That way with some here, some there I can use denial so I don't need to go to one of those 12 step programs. Kinda looking like you may need to surrender yourself up at the local meetings. Handtools Annnonymouse…........... it's the Neanderthal chapter of Tools Annonymouse.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*My first 90 degree board via hand tools and first use of saw bench*

This may not matter for much folk, but is a good feeling inside for myself. A personal milestone, so to speak. I made my first true 90 degree board with the use of my Stanley #8 and Stanley #5 1/2. I verified with my Veritas winding sticks (I gave up on making my own because my vice to hold thin objects is horrible) and to double check, I used my table saw cast iron table top and a square.
Then I used my saw bench to rip down 2 boards of 48" length (these are 2"x12" boards ripped down the middle to give that quarter sawn aspect). I think I better stop smoking and exercise some arm strength routines because I had to stop a good 3 or 4 times. I'll not use all 48" length (I am shooting for 36 or 32" joinery table top) but doesn't hurt to gain practice hand saw ripping and following the line, which I'm getting good at.


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## Holt (Mar 15, 2011)

Holbs said:


> *My first 90 degree board via hand tools and first use of saw bench*
> 
> This may not matter for much folk, but is a good feeling inside for myself. A personal milestone, so to speak. I made my first true 90 degree board with the use of my Stanley #8 and Stanley #5 1/2. I verified with my Veritas winding sticks (I gave up on making my own because my vice to hold thin objects is horrible) and to double check, I used my table saw cast iron table top and a square.
> Then I used my saw bench to rip down 2 boards of 48" length (these are 2"x12" boards ripped down the middle to give that quarter sawn aspect). I think I better stop smoking and exercise some arm strength routines because I had to stop a good 3 or 4 times. I'll not use all 48" length (I am shooting for 36 or 32" joinery table top) but doesn't hurt to gain practice hand saw ripping and following the line, which I'm getting good at.


If I'm looking at your picture correctly, then this is the first time I've ever seen a shoulder vise like yours. How well does it work? I assume the guides to either side of the screw keep the jaw square, can they be removed if you need the jaw to hold work that is not rectangular (maybe not the best description, something that isn't square and flat, maybe tapered or some more complex shape)?


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *My first 90 degree board via hand tools and first use of saw bench*
> 
> This may not matter for much folk, but is a good feeling inside for myself. A personal milestone, so to speak. I made my first true 90 degree board with the use of my Stanley #8 and Stanley #5 1/2. I verified with my Veritas winding sticks (I gave up on making my own because my vice to hold thin objects is horrible) and to double check, I used my table saw cast iron table top and a square.
> Then I used my saw bench to rip down 2 boards of 48" length (these are 2"x12" boards ripped down the middle to give that quarter sawn aspect). I think I better stop smoking and exercise some arm strength routines because I had to stop a good 3 or 4 times. I'll not use all 48" length (I am shooting for 36 or 32" joinery table top) but doesn't hurt to gain practice hand saw ripping and following the line, which I'm getting good at.


Holt, this is a Levrand bench, a Danish wood working school bench. Now that you mentioned it, I never gave it thought about the double pinned chop  I've only seen single screw (like Lake Erie Woodworks wooden screw) on a chop. Yes, the jaw stays square and cannot be removed. I'm sure it's possible (but not too easy) to clamp down out of square items.


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## Holt (Mar 15, 2011)

Holbs said:


> *My first 90 degree board via hand tools and first use of saw bench*
> 
> This may not matter for much folk, but is a good feeling inside for myself. A personal milestone, so to speak. I made my first true 90 degree board with the use of my Stanley #8 and Stanley #5 1/2. I verified with my Veritas winding sticks (I gave up on making my own because my vice to hold thin objects is horrible) and to double check, I used my table saw cast iron table top and a square.
> Then I used my saw bench to rip down 2 boards of 48" length (these are 2"x12" boards ripped down the middle to give that quarter sawn aspect). I think I better stop smoking and exercise some arm strength routines because I had to stop a good 3 or 4 times. I'll not use all 48" length (I am shooting for 36 or 32" joinery table top) but doesn't hurt to gain practice hand saw ripping and following the line, which I'm getting good at.


I know the out of square clamping is one of the "virtues" of the Scandinavian style Shoulder vise, but I think I like your's better. Seems like i could avoid some of those third hand needed situations. Going to do some research on Levrand. Thanks for the info!!!


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *My first 90 degree board via hand tools and first use of saw bench*
> 
> This may not matter for much folk, but is a good feeling inside for myself. A personal milestone, so to speak. I made my first true 90 degree board with the use of my Stanley #8 and Stanley #5 1/2. I verified with my Veritas winding sticks (I gave up on making my own because my vice to hold thin objects is horrible) and to double check, I used my table saw cast iron table top and a square.
> Then I used my saw bench to rip down 2 boards of 48" length (these are 2"x12" boards ripped down the middle to give that quarter sawn aspect). I think I better stop smoking and exercise some arm strength routines because I had to stop a good 3 or 4 times. I'll not use all 48" length (I am shooting for 36 or 32" joinery table top) but doesn't hurt to gain practice hand saw ripping and following the line, which I'm getting good at.


Here ya go Holt:
http://lervad.co.uk/

mine is nearly identical to this one: http://lervad.co.uk/products/242-single-technology-bench/293-technology-bench-132-cm---with-cupboard/
paid $200 for it at a local auction. would of been $75 if not for this one guy that would not give up. grr….


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

Holbs said:


> *My first 90 degree board via hand tools and first use of saw bench*
> 
> This may not matter for much folk, but is a good feeling inside for myself. A personal milestone, so to speak. I made my first true 90 degree board with the use of my Stanley #8 and Stanley #5 1/2. I verified with my Veritas winding sticks (I gave up on making my own because my vice to hold thin objects is horrible) and to double check, I used my table saw cast iron table top and a square.
> Then I used my saw bench to rip down 2 boards of 48" length (these are 2"x12" boards ripped down the middle to give that quarter sawn aspect). I think I better stop smoking and exercise some arm strength routines because I had to stop a good 3 or 4 times. I'll not use all 48" length (I am shooting for 36 or 32" joinery table top) but doesn't hurt to gain practice hand saw ripping and following the line, which I'm getting good at.


It is a big deal to perfect your hand skills and I think all woodworkers can relate to how you feel about it.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*My first attempt at half blind dovetail in hard maple 1.5" thick*

Another milestone accomplished: my first attempt at half blind dovetail in hard maple at 1.5" thick. 95% success on first try. Granted, took me 4 hours while Paul Sellers can do it in 5 minutes  There are some small gaps that I can live with due to the board being cut on my miter saw that I found out after the fact, was not square for the edge. Had to do some trickery to get it square after I already cut the tails.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

Holbs said:


> *My first attempt at half blind dovetail in hard maple 1.5" thick*
> 
> Another milestone accomplished: my first attempt at half blind dovetail in hard maple at 1.5" thick. 95% success on first try. Granted, took me 4 hours while Paul Sellers can do it in 5 minutes  There are some small gaps that I can live with due to the board being cut on my miter saw that I found out after the fact, was not square for the edge. Had to do some trickery to get it square after I already cut the tails.


Nice. Some glue and sawdust will fill that nicely.


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## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

Holbs said:


> *My first attempt at half blind dovetail in hard maple 1.5" thick*
> 
> Another milestone accomplished: my first attempt at half blind dovetail in hard maple at 1.5" thick. 95% success on first try. Granted, took me 4 hours while Paul Sellers can do it in 5 minutes  There are some small gaps that I can live with due to the board being cut on my miter saw that I found out after the fact, was not square for the edge. Had to do some trickery to get it square after I already cut the tails.


Looking good … I agree with Fridge, just some glue and sawdust and you're home free! Good job.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*Getting half blind and through dovetails in order.*

Making progress with the 1.5" thick hard maple apron joinery. I wanted more experience with through dovetails so went ahead and put 4 dovetails on each corner along the backside. Oooops. Getting things squared up is a tough job with such thick pieces. Somewhat like how winding sticks exaggerate errors, so does 1.5" thick material exaggerate if you are slightly off with your sawing (which I'm really good at being off). Not yet done with apron joinery dovetails as more fine tuning to go.


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## EarlS (Dec 21, 2011)

Holbs said:


> *Getting half blind and through dovetails in order.*
> 
> Making progress with the 1.5" thick hard maple apron joinery. I wanted more experience with through dovetails so went ahead and put 4 dovetails on each corner along the backside. Oooops. Getting things squared up is a tough job with such thick pieces. Somewhat like how winding sticks exaggerate errors, so does 1.5" thick material exaggerate if you are slightly off with your sawing (which I'm really good at being off). Not yet done with apron joinery dovetails as more fine tuning to go.


That's going to be a solid base.

Did you consider using the table saw to cut the sides of the through dovetails and then clean them out by hand?


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Getting half blind and through dovetails in order.*
> 
> Making progress with the 1.5" thick hard maple apron joinery. I wanted more experience with through dovetails so went ahead and put 4 dovetails on each corner along the backside. Oooops. Getting things squared up is a tough job with such thick pieces. Somewhat like how winding sticks exaggerate errors, so does 1.5" thick material exaggerate if you are slightly off with your sawing (which I'm really good at being off). Not yet done with apron joinery dovetails as more fine tuning to go.


I just may go that route, Earl. I wanted experience with 100% hand cut dovetailing. More, the better. But I may be asking for too much with 1.5" thick material


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## rad457 (Jun 15, 2013)

Holbs said:


> *Getting half blind and through dovetails in order.*
> 
> Making progress with the 1.5" thick hard maple apron joinery. I wanted more experience with through dovetails so went ahead and put 4 dovetails on each corner along the backside. Oooops. Getting things squared up is a tough job with such thick pieces. Somewhat like how winding sticks exaggerate errors, so does 1.5" thick material exaggerate if you are slightly off with your sawing (which I'm really good at being off). Not yet done with apron joinery dovetails as more fine tuning to go.


LOL! Thicker not always fun, I thought some Dove tails on Cedar garden boxes would look nice and very simple!
8/4 rough cut cedar, 8' long, lots of fun chopping out waste sideways! The first one was none too pretty and 
after a few years outdoors not holding up that well?


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Getting half blind and through dovetails in order.*
> 
> Making progress with the 1.5" thick hard maple apron joinery. I wanted more experience with through dovetails so went ahead and put 4 dovetails on each corner along the backside. Oooops. Getting things squared up is a tough job with such thick pieces. Somewhat like how winding sticks exaggerate errors, so does 1.5" thick material exaggerate if you are slightly off with your sawing (which I'm really good at being off). Not yet done with apron joinery dovetails as more fine tuning to go.


I am using the Veritas Tenon crosscut saw with a 14TPI. I wonder, if the high number of teeth per inch cutting through 1.5" of hard maple is asking too much when it comes to controlling the angle. Am thinking, 10TPI backsaw might be more appropriate. Hmm….


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*Apron half blind and through dovetail'ing complete. Can now visualize the joinery bench!*

Thanks to Loren about correcting me about which saw to use for dovetails. I thought to use a 14 TPI Veritas crosscut backsaw since sawing does go across the grain, which caused me to apply force/torque which in turn caused a horrible time following lines. Upon the suggestion, I swapped to a 12 TPI Veritas rip backsaw and big difference with the speed and control.
So now the front half blind dovetails and the rear through dovetails are completed in the 1.5" thick hard maple apron. Planing and some error correction is due (glue + sawdust or inserting sliver pieces and I did minor boo boo by adding 1/16" to the tails and not the pinss…but eh…I will not tell if you dont!). While it is true I had no need for any apron, I want all the experience I can get with hand cut dovetailing and what's better than 1.5" hard maple 
Next, will be cutting a channel (dado? grove? mortise?) in the side aprons and tenons for the 4" thick douglas fir table top which only the #1 out of 12 will be pinned and glued against the apron front face and the other 11 will only be dry fitted into the apron mortise to allow for expansion. 
24" x 36" total table top. Getting tired of stooping and bending over to do joinery on my existing utility bench


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*Apron and table top glued together, Benchcraft hardware installed*

I've never chopped out so much wood  Kudos to the Dewalt HD brand chisels for being fantastic beaters.
So here are the pieces prior to glue up. Lots of chopping out wood (I did use my Bosch router to hog out most of the wood for the side aprons) and chisel walls to make that crisp clean line even though nobody will see it  Made for good practice for the side apron mortises and dovetails. Don't worry about the glue at one of the dovetails…the glue leaked over somewhat when glue'ing up the table…have since cleaned that up).
Lesson learned: I should of gave 1 or 2" behind the hidden dovetail instead of right up to it. Oh well…still works and enough meat to be of use.









The underside of the table to give access to the Benchraft Moxon Vise nut:









I have a minor flaw in my Benchraft hardware that I will need to contact them about: a knick or burr on the acme thread post. Had to use a small hobby diamond file to widdle it down enough to allow the handwheel to turn on:









And the glue up of all pieces clamped together. 









Next: flattening everything. Unsure if I will fill in gaps as I want to compare my dovetail and project making years down the road to this one to see how far (if any) I have come from making errors and precision work.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*Joinery bench top 99% completed. Now to start working on phase 2: the base*

Whew. I'm very glad I decided to build a joinery bench as a learning experience before tackling a full size Roubo work bench. Lots of mistakes and learning how to correct (to a point). Hopefully, not so many mistakes when it comes time for the Roubo.
I used my #8, #5, #4, low angle, and scrub plane to flatten the top to a satisfactory level. I am still debating on leaving all visible gaps as a testament to my error prone ways for future projects, or not. 
Some sanding, BLO or shellac, and chop work (thinking of that lamb's tongue) to do. But for now, I have a couple 10' 4"x6" to start dimensioning for the the base. And how to add in material for tool well base (if any)


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## EarlS (Dec 21, 2011)

Holbs said:


> *Joinery bench top 99% completed. Now to start working on phase 2: the base*
> 
> Whew. I'm very glad I decided to build a joinery bench as a learning experience before tackling a full size Roubo work bench. Lots of mistakes and learning how to correct (to a point). Hopefully, not so many mistakes when it comes time for the Roubo.
> I used my #8, #5, #4, low angle, and scrub plane to flatten the top to a satisfactory level. I am still debating on leaving all visible gaps as a testament to my error prone ways for future projects, or not.
> Some sanding, BLO or shellac, and chop work (thinking of that lamb's tongue) to do. But for now, I have a couple 10' 4"x6" to start dimensioning for the the base. And how to add in material for tool well base (if any)


How much is the completed bench going to weigh? That looks like one solid top.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Joinery bench top 99% completed. Now to start working on phase 2: the base*
> 
> Whew. I'm very glad I decided to build a joinery bench as a learning experience before tackling a full size Roubo work bench. Lots of mistakes and learning how to correct (to a point). Hopefully, not so many mistakes when it comes time for the Roubo.
> I used my #8, #5, #4, low angle, and scrub plane to flatten the top to a satisfactory level. I am still debating on leaving all visible gaps as a testament to my error prone ways for future projects, or not.
> Some sanding, BLO or shellac, and chop work (thinking of that lamb's tongue) to do. But for now, I have a couple 10' 4"x6" to start dimensioning for the the base. And how to add in material for tool well base (if any)


It shall be separate pieces for relocation by a single person, if that need arises. Would be way too heavy for a solo person if all one piece. So the top piece will simply sit on top of the underneath legs & bracings.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*Getting around to get the 4"x6" legs in order*

Back at it… dimensioned the 4"x6" legs and feet. Hand cut tenons (practice, practice, practice). Initially, tried the Veritas tenon saw at 12 TPI but it struggled through the massive depth. Pulled out a backsaw I cleaned up and tried it out. Horrible long time cuts! Of course, it probably has not been sharpened in 50 years…so out comes the saw files. Jointed, filed and sharpened with a 8° negative rake at 10 TPI. Now, cuts through like butter. So now the tenons are cut. Still have to ensure 90° from shoulder to mortise, as my sawing is not perfected.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*I hope this is the last time I work with 4"x6" joinery. *

Got around to the dreadful 4"x6" mortises, tenons, and bridal joints. Getting a little burned out doing massive joinery like this. Looking forward to doing the more civil 1/4" or 1/2" stuff!
4 leg pieces at 4"x6" with 4" tenon into 4" mortise on the 2 feet.
the 4 bridal joints at each corner for the 4"x4" front and rear facing pieces.
I have 2 more 4"x4" for the sides bridal joinery to do.
Then 2"x4" stretchers here and there (or maybe not… maybe the bridal joints alone on top will suffice…will have to test).


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*Can see light at end of the tunnel! All joinery completed and dry fitted to satisfaction.*

With the use of 4"x6" for legs, I went ahead and did a bridal joint for left and right, and mortise/tenon for front/back 4"x4" pieces. Added smaller stretcher mortise/tenon down low to help stability. All dry fitted.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*all parts sanded, 3 coats shellac, corners broken, Lie-Nielsen dowel plate installed*

All parts taken outside this nice breezy 75 degree Reno, NV day for sanding 240 grit outside (good 'ol Workmate 450!).
Notice mortise error in pedestal. Was distracted and read the wrong lines. Cut out not just tenon area but whole work piece area.
Broke all corners with a block plane.
3 coats of Shellac Sealcoat.
Configured pedestals with front & rear roundovers and made feet.
Installed Lie-Nielsen dowel plate on table top to sit 1/16" under flush. Drilled exact holes all the way through. Made 8 3/8" x 4" dowels out of straight grain oak (these will be the pins for the 4 vertical columns to the feet). Many more to go but for another day.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

Holbs said:


> *all parts sanded, 3 coats shellac, corners broken, Lie-Nielsen dowel plate installed*
> 
> All parts taken outside this nice breezy 75 degree Reno, NV day for sanding 240 grit outside (good 'ol Workmate 450!).
> Notice mortise error in pedestal. Was distracted and read the wrong lines. Cut out not just tenon area but whole work piece area.
> ...


I was surprised at the effectiveness of a dowel plate. Man do they work.

Nice work bud.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *all parts sanded, 3 coats shellac, corners broken, Lie-Nielsen dowel plate installed*
> 
> All parts taken outside this nice breezy 75 degree Reno, NV day for sanding 240 grit outside (good 'ol Workmate 450!).
> Notice mortise error in pedestal. Was distracted and read the wrong lines. Cut out not just tenon area but whole work piece area.
> ...


Bought the dowel plate… like 3 years ago and it sat collecting dust because I had no real home for it (where I could beat wood through). This joinery bench has solved that issue  Very happy with the dowel plate. Cut a little over 3/8" square oak rods, sharpen the ends, whack a couple time to make sure it's seated, chisel down the corners while it is seated, and goto town. I do have to use the yellow punch to get the dowels out. Maybe I should wax the holes.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*Drawbore pins made, spacer blocks installed, example of bad offset measurement, base complete*

With the use of my Lie-Nelson dowel plate, I hammered out 24 drawbore pins of 3 1/2" long at 3/8" round with 4 7" long ones for pinning dovetail corners. Tried the riving method as you can see with the left over waste.









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Installed 2 spacers in the mortise I made a error on. With tenon installed, now a nice tight fit.









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And this is what happens when you try different measurements when it comes to drawbore offset. I tried 1/8" and the wood told me NONO. Good thing this sits under the table unseen!









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Every joint has 2×3/8" pegs installed for a total of 24 pegs. I did not peg the 2 smaller stretchers between legs, just regular mortise and tenon.
I only had a metal hammer for a long time, as you can see the results of forgetting to use a scrap piece to knock things in place. Going to buy a 16oz soft faced mallet asap.









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The final result of the bottom base. Though still have to knock down the pegs. I'm happy I went with drawboring as it really really made everything snug and tight.


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## Handtooler (Jul 24, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Drawbore pins made, spacer blocks installed, example of bad offset measurement, base complete*
> 
> With the use of my Lie-Nelson dowel plate, I hammered out 24 drawbore pins of 3 1/2" long at 3/8" round with 4 7" long ones for pinning dovetail corners. Tried the riving method as you can see with the left over waste.
> 
> ...


WQW! Very nice, and a wise choice to incorporate drawbor. Gonna last for several generations.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Drawbore pins made, spacer blocks installed, example of bad offset measurement, base complete*
> 
> With the use of my Lie-Nelson dowel plate, I hammered out 24 drawbore pins of 3 1/2" long at 3/8" round with 4 7" long ones for pinning dovetail corners. Tried the riving method as you can see with the left over waste.
> 
> ...


This project is a test run, really, for a future Roubo build. Lots of mistakes in this thing I'm learning to overcome and to watch out for next time around. With all the errors in this build, I wouldn't want it to be around for generations


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*Completed last couple steps*

I was undecided what to modify (if at all) the front moveable chop. Knowing I will be cutting at angles, I went ahead and did my first ever attempt at a lambs tongue via freehand. First, had to cut out the waste which was easy by many saw kerf cuts and chisel, but scratched my head as to how to flatten the bevel: lots of crank neck chiseling, filing, and sanding.



























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Once that was done, some final sanding in places and more shellac here & there. Moved into it's final resting place in the shop. Will now post up in project section.


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