# Garage to Work Shop Conversion



## twoblacklabs (Jan 12, 2011)

*Got Weight?*

The only good thing about not having built a planer stand is that it makes a Great Weight for gluing.



This eventually will be a door. The frame is assembled with pocket screws and glue (not complete). The outer skin is 1/2" BCX ply and will receive paint.

Man, do I have a long way to go.


----------



## wseand (Jan 27, 2010)

twoblacklabs said:


> *Got Weight?*
> 
> The only good thing about not having built a planer stand is that it makes a Great Weight for gluing.
> 
> ...


You make me want to start a new project. My shop needs a lot of work, not as much as your though. Great progress so far.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

twoblacklabs said:


> *Got Weight?*
> 
> The only good thing about not having built a planer stand is that it makes a Great Weight for gluing.
> 
> ...


... of course you could always roll a car or truck onto it for more weight! * LOL*

Looking forward to seeing your progress on your doors…

*Is that a 1×2 or 1×3 frame?*


----------



## twoblacklabs (Jan 12, 2011)

twoblacklabs said:


> *Got Weight?*
> 
> The only good thing about not having built a planer stand is that it makes a Great Weight for gluing.
> 
> ...


Thanks wseand.

Joe, I don't plan on putting another vehicle in there unless absolutely necessary for maintenance. These are 1×3 frame members milled from 2×4 studs.


----------



## twoblacklabs (Jan 12, 2011)

*the cracked foundation*

A lot going on here.

Cracked foundation (repaired)
Old, rotted wooden barn sliding door visible on lower left (one of 2). Not an option to rehab as they are on the eave side of the buidling, no header, 80% of the length of the building, never seal and let a great deal of cold air inside.
3" crushed limestone over the compacted soil base, after the tree roots which cracked and heaved the original floor were removed.
Part of the plastic vapor barrier which is laid under the temporary OSB floor.
The lolly gag support, encased in ply. This was placed after I removed the sole supporting structure on this entire wall, a simple 4×4 post. However, the bottom 3" of the post had rotted away, so there was NO support at all. Causing the roof to sag in the middle. 
You can also see the wooden bridge which has been spanning my "Moat" for the last several months.


----------



## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

twoblacklabs said:


> *the cracked foundation*
> 
> A lot going on here.
> 
> ...


John, You have your work cut out for you. But in the end you will be very pleased with it, I'm sure. I'm looking forward to the completed shop and lots a pictures. hint hint. lol It is the only way we can be there by proxy. Rand


----------



## twoblacklabs (Jan 12, 2011)

twoblacklabs said:


> *the cracked foundation*
> 
> A lot going on here.
> 
> ...


I am SO looking forward to it. The Mrs. isn't thrilled about the amount of money going into it but the reality is that it is keeping me off of the poker tables.


----------



## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

twoblacklabs said:


> *the cracked foundation*
> 
> A lot going on here.
> 
> ...


OK I'm in. Who's dealing?


----------



## twoblacklabs (Jan 12, 2011)

twoblacklabs said:


> *the cracked foundation*
> 
> A lot going on here.
> 
> ...


Yep. Just like crack. Very addictive. I am pretty good but I don't ever have the extra disposable money in order to play well. Scared money loses, every time.


----------



## HerbC (Jul 28, 2010)

twoblacklabs said:


> *the cracked foundation*
> 
> A lot going on here.
> 
> ...


More pictures???


----------



## twoblacklabs (Jan 12, 2011)

*Doors*

I am really bad about stopping to take photos.









The picture is taken while standing on a chair. The door is wrong side up with the top of the door closest to the bottom of the picture. The door is actually laying on top of the table saw for ease of access. My back is screaming from trimming the first door while on short saw horses. Live and learn (hurt).

The first door is laying on the floor. Needs one edge trimmed with flush trim router bit.
The second door frame is in progress. 
One stile is squared up via the factory plywood edge. Glued, clamped and brad nailed.
Next, the top rail is lined up, glue applied and the pocket screws are driven home. Clamps are applied and then more brads.
Same with the middle and then the bottom rails.
Finally, the opposite stile is aligned, glued and the pocket screws are driven starting again with the top rail, middle then bottom. Clamps applied and more brads.


















Purists may notice the luan on the completed door is upside down. This is done for a reason. Pure self satisfaction. I like the "wood" look and since I will be the one looking at it on a regular basis, I turned it this way.

The doors are based on the article published in Fine Wood Working, 2010 Tools and Shops. Interior frame is 1×3, milled from 2×4. The original intent was to use poplar but I didn't have any to mill and my budget is shot.

Exterior skin is 1/2" bcx.
1×3 interior skeleton frame.
1" EPS white foam sheets in both left and right bays.
Interior skin is 1/4" luan ply.

Due to the budget, I will be holding off on the windows for now. So at the helpful suggestion of my father in law, I put EPS foam in the upper bay also before gluing the 1/4" luan inside skin.

Tomorrow, I will cut the foam for the second door, route the edges flush and install the hinges. Hopefully, I will not screw that up. Hanging on the hinges scares me. Never done it before. Wish me luck. Then, I will go to work for 12 hours. Ugh.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

twoblacklabs said:


> *Doors*
> 
> I am really bad about stopping to take photos.
> 
> ...


You're doing good!

Yes, I think I'd have the foam everywhere I could put it… Extra insulation can't hurt and could really make the difference in Summer & Winter…

Thank you.


----------



## twoblacklabs (Jan 12, 2011)

twoblacklabs said:


> *Doors*
> 
> I am really bad about stopping to take photos.
> 
> ...


Was able to get a little done today.









Added the middle rail.








Next comes the 1" EPS foam. Easy to cut as it doesn't have to be exact. In fact, cut it a 1/16" large and friction fit into place.


















Here is me other shop buddy. The newest addition to the family. 13 month old chocolate lab named June. She LOVES being in the shop also and knows exactly where the cutoff pile is and frequently raids it for chew toys.

If anyone knows how to keep the images from turning 90 degrees, please let me know.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

twoblacklabs said:


> *Doors*
> 
> I am really bad about stopping to take photos.
> 
> ...


I copied, used MS Paint, made canvas big enough, Pasted, Rotated 90, CUT, Pasted, changed attributes, & saved.

You can edit your post Copying the URL's from this post to your edited pic. URL's (I think)...

url =

















url =

















url =

















BUT, you must do it withing the next 24 minutes!


----------



## twoblacklabs (Jan 12, 2011)

twoblacklabs said:


> *Doors*
> 
> I am really bad about stopping to take photos.
> 
> ...


Thanks Joe. Not sure what is going on. The pictures are not rotated until they are uploaded onto this site. Something about posting here seems to be doing it.


----------



## twoblacklabs (Jan 12, 2011)

twoblacklabs said:


> *Doors*
> 
> I am really bad about stopping to take photos.
> 
> ...


Damn. I would much rather be in the shop right now than at work. Fights, drunks, overdoses and shootings. Fun, Fun, Fun!


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

twoblacklabs said:


> *Doors*
> 
> I am really bad about stopping to take photos.
> 
> ...


All of That happens at your work?! OMG!

*You work at a Police station?!* LOL

Yes, the Shop would be a lot more FUN! ... for sure!


----------



## twoblacklabs (Jan 12, 2011)

twoblacklabs said:


> *Doors*
> 
> I am really bad about stopping to take photos.
> 
> ...


No Joe, but I sometimes play one. I am a career paramedic in a busy 911 system.

Had a few minutes to finish the flush trimming and lift one door up for sizing. Looks like I have a little trimming and jamb work to do, but I can envision the final product.


Out of time for today. Back to work in a bit for another 12 hours of fun.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

twoblacklabs said:


> *Doors*
> 
> I am really bad about stopping to take photos.
> 
> ...


You're getting there…

Hope you have a FUN 12 hrs.


----------



## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

twoblacklabs said:


> *Doors*
> 
> I am really bad about stopping to take photos.
> 
> ...


John, I think you misnamed the dog. Her name should be "Boss". She looks like a raised area on the floor that everyone trips over. lol


----------



## twoblacklabs (Jan 12, 2011)

twoblacklabs said:


> *Doors*
> 
> I am really bad about stopping to take photos.
> 
> ...


That's a good one


----------



## twoblacklabs (Jan 12, 2011)

*Doors are Up*

It's ugly but it's also FAR from done. Still needs top and bottom stops, top sill (?), trim, paint, locks, windows cut and built, etc. The old flashing needs repaired to resolve the "dip" in the middle, fascia replaced and trim boards. However, as of today, I no longer have to enlist my FIL to help lift and stand the old doors in order to close the building up. Those suckers are easily 200 lbs each.

The drains are not complete and the photo makes it look worse than it really is.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

twoblacklabs said:


> *Doors are Up*
> 
> It's ugly but it's also FAR from done. Still needs top and bottom stops, top sill (?), trim, paint, locks, windows cut and built, etc. The old flashing needs repaired to resolve the "dip" in the middle, fascia replaced and trim boards. However, as of today, I no longer have to enlist my FIL to help lift and stand the old doors in order to close the building up. Those suckers are easily 200 lbs each.
> 
> The drains are not complete and the photo makes it look worse than it really is.


Hey!

That's SUPER Progress!

*Congratulations!
*
Thank you for the update!


----------



## twoblacklabs (Jan 12, 2011)

twoblacklabs said:


> *Doors are Up*
> 
> It's ugly but it's also FAR from done. Still needs top and bottom stops, top sill (?), trim, paint, locks, windows cut and built, etc. The old flashing needs repaired to resolve the "dip" in the middle, fascia replaced and trim boards. However, as of today, I no longer have to enlist my FIL to help lift and stand the old doors in order to close the building up. Those suckers are easily 200 lbs each.
> 
> The drains are not complete and the photo makes it look worse than it really is.


Lesson learned. Don't move pics into new albums on photobucket or they will no longer show up on LJ. ugh.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

twoblacklabs said:


> *Doors are Up*
> 
> It's ugly but it's also FAR from done. Still needs top and bottom stops, top sill (?), trim, paint, locks, windows cut and built, etc. The old flashing needs repaired to resolve the "dip" in the middle, fascia replaced and trim boards. However, as of today, I no longer have to enlist my FIL to help lift and stand the old doors in order to close the building up. Those suckers are easily 200 lbs each.
> 
> The drains are not complete and the photo makes it look worse than it really is.


I wonder what happened… when you first posted, I could see the picture… then, it eventually went away… (??)

Glad to see it back!


----------



## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

twoblacklabs said:


> *Doors are Up*
> 
> It's ugly but it's also FAR from done. Still needs top and bottom stops, top sill (?), trim, paint, locks, windows cut and built, etc. The old flashing needs repaired to resolve the "dip" in the middle, fascia replaced and trim boards. However, as of today, I no longer have to enlist my FIL to help lift and stand the old doors in order to close the building up. Those suckers are easily 200 lbs each.
> 
> The drains are not complete and the photo makes it look worse than it really is.


You're coming right along John. Before you wrap up this project, don't forget Emma's corner. This corner will demand a woodworkers bench that can grow with her, you know. lol Keep the fire ablaze in her heart.


----------



## twoblacklabs (Jan 12, 2011)

twoblacklabs said:


> *Doors are Up*
> 
> It's ugly but it's also FAR from done. Still needs top and bottom stops, top sill (?), trim, paint, locks, windows cut and built, etc. The old flashing needs repaired to resolve the "dip" in the middle, fascia replaced and trim boards. However, as of today, I no longer have to enlist my FIL to help lift and stand the old doors in order to close the building up. Those suckers are easily 200 lbs each.
> 
> The drains are not complete and the photo makes it look worse than it really is.


Thanks Rand. Daddy gets a bench first LOL.

Was able to get a little gravel backfill done however, the drains are at too steep of an angle yet so they will be removed and reset then back filled. Installed top and bottom locking foot bolts on one door, a single foot bolt on the other. There is a slight warp to one of the doors and the bolts should allow it to warp into the correct position over time. Considering I built the frames from stud grade lumber and assembled without the use of a worktable (I haven't built one yet), some warping was expected and is acceptable.

Also able to get some expanding foam into the gaps. Still a little more to go yet but even so, it's much warmer inside than ever before. More pictures tomorrow I hope.


----------



## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

twoblacklabs said:


> *Doors are Up*
> 
> It's ugly but it's also FAR from done. Still needs top and bottom stops, top sill (?), trim, paint, locks, windows cut and built, etc. The old flashing needs repaired to resolve the "dip" in the middle, fascia replaced and trim boards. However, as of today, I no longer have to enlist my FIL to help lift and stand the old doors in order to close the building up. Those suckers are easily 200 lbs each.
> 
> The drains are not complete and the photo makes it look worse than it really is.


BTW John, I like the new avatar. Real classy.


----------



## twoblacklabs (Jan 12, 2011)

twoblacklabs said:


> *Doors are Up*
> 
> It's ugly but it's also FAR from done. Still needs top and bottom stops, top sill (?), trim, paint, locks, windows cut and built, etc. The old flashing needs repaired to resolve the "dip" in the middle, fascia replaced and trim boards. However, as of today, I no longer have to enlist my FIL to help lift and stand the old doors in order to close the building up. Those suckers are easily 200 lbs each.
> 
> The drains are not complete and the photo makes it look worse than it really is.


Thanks Rand


----------



## twoblacklabs (Jan 12, 2011)

twoblacklabs said:


> *Doors are Up*
> 
> It's ugly but it's also FAR from done. Still needs top and bottom stops, top sill (?), trim, paint, locks, windows cut and built, etc. The old flashing needs repaired to resolve the "dip" in the middle, fascia replaced and trim boards. However, as of today, I no longer have to enlist my FIL to help lift and stand the old doors in order to close the building up. Those suckers are easily 200 lbs each.
> 
> The drains are not complete and the photo makes it look worse than it really is.


This is my inside view (obviously no finish has been applied). Not a typical locking setup for a workshop but for a total of less than $30 I will take it. That's $24 for the entry lever and dead bolt and (2)$2.96 door bolts. I really didn't want to have the typical lockset but this really works well. I LIKE having 2 locks to discourage would be thieves. The door on the left is the main access and I can easily unbolt the right side to open a full 8'-0" wide to move things in and out. You can see a little primer from sealing the edges. If you look close, you can also see greasy finger prints my soon to be son in law left. I like the kid but cleaning up after himself isn't one of his strong suites. There were other messes he left but How Dare He smudge my new doors! Folks are welcome to use my tools as long as the use them here, clean them and put them where they belong. He only managed to follow one of those rules…...and he did loose points with me for that.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

twoblacklabs said:


> *Doors are Up*
> 
> It's ugly but it's also FAR from done. Still needs top and bottom stops, top sill (?), trim, paint, locks, windows cut and built, etc. The old flashing needs repaired to resolve the "dip" in the middle, fascia replaced and trim boards. However, as of today, I no longer have to enlist my FIL to help lift and stand the old doors in order to close the building up. Those suckers are easily 200 lbs each.
> 
> The drains are not complete and the photo makes it look worse than it really is.


That looks pretty good to me…


----------



## twoblacklabs (Jan 12, 2011)

twoblacklabs said:


> *Doors are Up*
> 
> It's ugly but it's also FAR from done. Still needs top and bottom stops, top sill (?), trim, paint, locks, windows cut and built, etc. The old flashing needs repaired to resolve the "dip" in the middle, fascia replaced and trim boards. However, as of today, I no longer have to enlist my FIL to help lift and stand the old doors in order to close the building up. Those suckers are easily 200 lbs each.
> 
> The drains are not complete and the photo makes it look worse than it really is.


Thanks Joe. BTW, I meant to say he is my soon to be EX son in law and that has nothing to do with the greasy smears.

Maybe I am getting old but I really want to have a tidy shop.


----------



## twoblacklabs (Jan 12, 2011)

*Primer for the doors*

Emma (with safety glasses) REALLY wanted to help prime the new doors. It was interesting but fun. Only problem is we were out of daylight and we won't be home together tomorrow. So we did the only logical / *********************************** thing. Headlights from the truck!


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

twoblacklabs said:


> *Primer for the doors*
> 
> Emma (with safety glasses) REALLY wanted to help prime the new doors. It was interesting but fun. Only problem is we were out of daylight and we won't be home together tomorrow. So we did the only logical / *********************************** thing. Headlights from the truck!


Very GOOD!

Looks like she's almost done too!


----------



## twoblacklabs (Jan 12, 2011)

twoblacklabs said:


> *Primer for the doors*
> 
> Emma (with safety glasses) REALLY wanted to help prime the new doors. It was interesting but fun. Only problem is we were out of daylight and we won't be home together tomorrow. So we did the only logical / *********************************** thing. Headlights from the truck!


BTW, I claim *********************************** status from birth.


----------



## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

twoblacklabs said:


> *Primer for the doors*
> 
> Emma (with safety glasses) REALLY wanted to help prime the new doors. It was interesting but fun. Only problem is we were out of daylight and we won't be home together tomorrow. So we did the only logical / *********************************** thing. Headlights from the truck!


Great shop help is hard to find! You and I have started training ours early. What a cutie! a fellow *********************************** (by birth and careful study).


----------



## twoblacklabs (Jan 12, 2011)

twoblacklabs said:


> *Primer for the doors*
> 
> Emma (with safety glasses) REALLY wanted to help prime the new doors. It was interesting but fun. Only problem is we were out of daylight and we won't be home together tomorrow. So we did the only logical / *********************************** thing. Headlights from the truck!


Or as "Mama" likes to say, "Appalachian American".


----------



## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

twoblacklabs said:


> *Primer for the doors*
> 
> Emma (with safety glasses) REALLY wanted to help prime the new doors. It was interesting but fun. Only problem is we were out of daylight and we won't be home together tomorrow. So we did the only logical / *********************************** thing. Headlights from the truck!


John, I see a very happy little helper. I think she is going to be a *********************************** girl. You better be saving for a pickup.

Don't feel bad about being a *********************************** in Yankeeland. I'm out here on the left coast with all these prune picking left wingers. lol


----------



## twoblacklabs (Jan 12, 2011)

*DIY Drywall Outlet marker*

I've had my outlets in place for a long time. Insulation and drywall are next. My first attempt at precutting my panels for the existing outlets didn't go so well.

I didn't want to pay $15 for a drywall marker for the next panels so I made one. 1 Gang Mud Ring, small drill bit, super glue and a few cut off brads and I'm all set!





Install this (inside out) onto the existing outlet box and push the drywall against it. Connect the dots on on the drywall and Cut. No need to remove the outlet to mark with chalk or lipstick (they way I was taught thirty years ago).

Or so I thought.

Couple of issues. The marking pins are roughly centered in the mud ring walls. However, the center of the walls does not represent the actual required opening which would be the OUTSIDE of the walls. Thus you STILL have to make the cut larger but at least you know approximately where to make it. Notice the pencil line connecting the dots ended up being too small. Tracing the jig resulted in the correct opening size.



Next problem, the screw length. Simply taking the outlet screws and inserting into the jig doesn't work as the screws ended up too short.



A little more retro-engineering with the hacksaw and razor knife fixes this.



(For those that look inot backgrounds, the cut marks in the fence are from the previous owner, not me).



Now it fits nicely.



Still a wee bit tight but since this is only a trial, I will know what to do on the next piece. This was only a 1' x 1' test piece.



Not too shabby.


Why am I messing with this and taking so many pictures instead of just installing the drywall you ask? Because it's 110+ plus in the shop and I really don't want to get that hot! Hopefully soon, I will be able to enjoy a cool shop in the summer and a warm shop in the winter.


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

twoblacklabs said:


> *DIY Drywall Outlet marker*
> 
> I've had my outlets in place for a long time. Insulation and drywall are next. My first attempt at precutting my panels for the existing outlets didn't go so well.
> 
> ...


simple and ez


----------



## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

twoblacklabs said:


> *DIY Drywall Outlet marker*
> 
> I've had my outlets in place for a long time. Insulation and drywall are next. My first attempt at precutting my panels for the existing outlets didn't go so well.
> 
> ...


I have the electrician coming tomorrow for the consult on running the power for my shop. This will require wrecking out the existing sheet rock, and replacing it once everything is powered up. I was honestly planning on measuring and marking with a tape measure, and making my openings just a hair large. This looks like a much cleaner way of doing it… Might help with air infiltration at the outlets as well… I do have some plumbing pass throughs I need to figure out how to rock around, but I figure rock in close, try to tape behind, fill the gap, tape up, sand as close as feaseable, and call it good to go.

Please post up your results once your power, insulation etc.. are done. I'd love to get an idea of what a closer to done shop actually looks like.


----------



## twoblacklabs (Jan 12, 2011)

twoblacklabs said:


> *DIY Drywall Outlet marker*
> 
> I've had my outlets in place for a long time. Insulation and drywall are next. My first attempt at precutting my panels for the existing outlets didn't go so well.
> 
> ...


Don't hold your breath LOL. This is a few bucks per pay check kind of project. This check, I will be cutting the roof and installing a ridge vent as it's sweltering in there. Our record temps are too much for my little window a/c unit. I don't even bother turning it on.

Maybe, I'll be able to pick up a few more sheets of drywall and a bag of insulation.


----------



## macatlin1 (May 5, 2010)

twoblacklabs said:


> *DIY Drywall Outlet marker*
> 
> I've had my outlets in place for a long time. Insulation and drywall are next. My first attempt at precutting my panels for the existing outlets didn't go so well.
> 
> ...


Very timely. I am in the process of wiring up the outlets and then on to the drywall. And, I suck at finding the boxes! I'll give your method a try. I only have about 30 to do!


----------



## rldunlap (Jul 22, 2010)

twoblacklabs said:


> *DIY Drywall Outlet marker*
> 
> I've had my outlets in place for a long time. Insulation and drywall are next. My first attempt at precutting my panels for the existing outlets didn't go so well.
> 
> ...


Lipstick on the rim of the existing outlet box works well.


----------



## twoblacklabs (Jan 12, 2011)

twoblacklabs said:


> *DIY Drywall Outlet marker*
> 
> I've had my outlets in place for a long time. Insulation and drywall are next. My first attempt at precutting my panels for the existing outlets didn't go so well.
> 
> ...


My wife has naturally ruby red lips so she doesn't wear it.


 Neither do I. ****


----------



## twoblacklabs (Jan 12, 2011)

*Umm. It's pretty hot in there.*

Before trying to solve the heat problems, I wanted to document how hot it really was. So I picked an $8 indoor/outdoor remote thermometer. I placed one sensor in the shop at ceiling level. No desire to climb the ladder and place it at peak height. The plan is record temps today (and stay out of the oven), cut the roof tomorrow morning before it's too stinking hot and install ridge venting and see how much it helps.

Forecast for the today and tomorrow are similar. HOT.



Tomorrow will be even hotter.



Current readings from the remote thermometer. "Out" is actually the shop sensor.



Hopefully I will see a significant change. Once that happens, I will record how the window a/c effects it.


----------



## knotheadswoodshed (Jun 14, 2012)

twoblacklabs said:


> *Umm. It's pretty hot in there.*
> 
> Before trying to solve the heat problems, I wanted to document how hot it really was. So I picked an $8 indoor/outdoor remote thermometer. I placed one sensor in the shop at ceiling level. No desire to climb the ladder and place it at peak height. The plan is record temps today (and stay out of the oven), cut the roof tomorrow morning before it's too stinking hot and install ridge venting and see how much it helps.
> 
> ...


LOL,
same temps here in MN…my shop is in an attached garage that just happens to have a window into the house.
I put a fan in the window and sucked all the air-conditioning out of the house, blowing it into the garage.
Worked great, but it really pissed off Mama, as it really warmed up the upstairs bedroom and she couldnt sleep.


----------



## Racer2007 (Jan 13, 2011)

twoblacklabs said:


> *Umm. It's pretty hot in there.*
> 
> Before trying to solve the heat problems, I wanted to document how hot it really was. So I picked an $8 indoor/outdoor remote thermometer. I placed one sensor in the shop at ceiling level. No desire to climb the ladder and place it at peak height. The plan is record temps today (and stay out of the oven), cut the roof tomorrow morning before it's too stinking hot and install ridge venting and see how much it helps.
> 
> ...


Randy , you better be careful about "pissing of Mama " you might endup sleeping in the shop.


----------



## longgone (May 5, 2009)

twoblacklabs said:


> *Umm. It's pretty hot in there.*
> 
> Before trying to solve the heat problems, I wanted to document how hot it really was. So I picked an $8 indoor/outdoor remote thermometer. I placed one sensor in the shop at ceiling level. No desire to climb the ladder and place it at peak height. The plan is record temps today (and stay out of the oven), cut the roof tomorrow morning before it's too stinking hot and install ridge venting and see how much it helps.
> 
> ...


It is 97 today….and also around the same for the past couple of weeks. My shop temperature is 82 and I don't even have the window A/C on. The spray foam insulation makes such an unbelievable difference. Worth every penny.


----------



## twoblacklabs (Jan 12, 2011)

twoblacklabs said:


> *Umm. It's pretty hot in there.*
> 
> Before trying to solve the heat problems, I wanted to document how hot it really was. So I picked an $8 indoor/outdoor remote thermometer. I placed one sensor in the shop at ceiling level. No desire to climb the ladder and place it at peak height. The plan is record temps today (and stay out of the oven), cut the roof tomorrow morning before it's too stinking hot and install ridge venting and see how much it helps.
> 
> ...


Randy, that was pretty funny.

102.6 and climbing in the shop.


----------



## WhoMe (Jul 9, 2009)

twoblacklabs said:


> *Umm. It's pretty hot in there.*
> 
> Before trying to solve the heat problems, I wanted to document how hot it really was. So I picked an $8 indoor/outdoor remote thermometer. I placed one sensor in the shop at ceiling level. No desire to climb the ladder and place it at peak height. The plan is record temps today (and stay out of the oven), cut the roof tomorrow morning before it's too stinking hot and install ridge venting and see how much it helps.
> 
> ...


Look forward to seeing the results.


----------



## knotheadswoodshed (Jun 14, 2012)

twoblacklabs said:


> *Umm. It's pretty hot in there.*
> 
> Before trying to solve the heat problems, I wanted to document how hot it really was. So I picked an $8 indoor/outdoor remote thermometer. I placed one sensor in the shop at ceiling level. No desire to climb the ladder and place it at peak height. The plan is record temps today (and stay out of the oven), cut the roof tomorrow morning before it's too stinking hot and install ridge venting and see how much it helps.
> 
> ...


well, it seemed like a good idea at the time….. which is usually a good indicator that I am about to do something terribly wrong


----------



## twoblacklabs (Jan 12, 2011)

twoblacklabs said:


> *Umm. It's pretty hot in there.*
> 
> Before trying to solve the heat problems, I wanted to document how hot it really was. So I picked an $8 indoor/outdoor remote thermometer. I placed one sensor in the shop at ceiling level. No desire to climb the ladder and place it at peak height. The plan is record temps today (and stay out of the oven), cut the roof tomorrow morning before it's too stinking hot and install ridge venting and see how much it helps.
> 
> ...


Ran into a delay. Can't install it yet but delay has nothing to do with the shop. This will allow me to gather better data as to temps. (always look for the bright side I guess).

But is still REALLY hot. Ugh.


----------



## WoodworkingGeek (Jan 11, 2011)

twoblacklabs said:


> *Umm. It's pretty hot in there.*
> 
> Before trying to solve the heat problems, I wanted to document how hot it really was. So I picked an $8 indoor/outdoor remote thermometer. I placed one sensor in the shop at ceiling level. No desire to climb the ladder and place it at peak height. The plan is record temps today (and stay out of the oven), cut the roof tomorrow morning before it's too stinking hot and install ridge venting and see how much it helps.
> 
> ...


I know what you mean more than I like to!! My shop probably got over 100 this week! Thankfully I have just bought a 10,000 BTU window air conditioner on Tuesday.
-Matthew


----------



## twoblacklabs (Jan 12, 2011)

*The Rebuild Begins*

If you haven't kept up, take a look at the forum entry ""Woodshop Disaster Today"":http://lumberjocks.com/topics/55735

Taking advantage of the situation to do more work on the shop. In years past, I busted up and hauled away (by hand, one truck load at a time), the cracked and heaved concrete floor. It was so bad, you could not even take a step without either dropping or climbing 6" either way. After it was removed, I spread and compacted 15 tons of crushed limestone. Plastic vapor barrier on that forming "tub" inside the perimeter. 25/32" OSB was laid on top of that for my finished floor. Pouring a new concrete floor wasn't in the budget and frankly I like the wood floor. However, the addition of a furnace has caused the panels to warp. They were not secured to anything since there was nothing beneath.

So with all the damage from the "disaster" and the need to replace a few OSB panels, I decided to make it that much better and solve the warpage. 6" of snow outside with temps in the mid teens makes it difficult to take all the stuff out of the shop. So instead, I'm forced to move and relocate all of the stuff. Over and over.

After shifting all the belongings to one side of the shop, I began to remove the OSB panels. New 2×4 PT sleepers were placed along the perimeter then 16" O.C perpendicular to OSB layout. 1'-1/2" x 1-1/2" thick rigid foam panels were laid between each sleeper.



















It has been SLOW going but steady. It would go really quick if it weren't for having to constantly move all the stuff, shifting from one side to the other. An empty space could have been done in about 1 day. As it stands, I'm about 80% complete after 2 days.

While I don't have a bunch of headroom to begin with I am giving up a mere 1-1/2". However, I now have a floor system which allows al OSB panels to be screwed flat. The floor is now flat and interlocking as it should be. It will also increase the comfort of the shop.

Stay tuned.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

twoblacklabs said:


> *The Rebuild Begins*
> 
> If you haven't kept up, take a look at the forum entry ""Woodshop Disaster Today"":http://lumberjocks.com/topics/55735
> 
> ...


Looking GOOD!

At this rate, you will be done by New Years!

Merry Christmas
and
Happy New Years!


----------



## twoblacklabs (Jan 12, 2011)

*Proof of Concept and LVL Beam*

Most of the floor is complete but there are areas I couldn't address until the wall was reconstructed. Once the wall sheathing was gone I found damage to the foundation wall.










There were several cracks. I was debating how to address it but have decided to simply eliminate the cracked section and thus widening the existing opening. This actually will be an improvement as the area beyond wall was a bit difficult to access. This requires installing an appropriately sized LVL Beam. In fact, 2 LVL's sistered together. Wasn't counting on the ugly blue color. Guess I'll have to cover that up some how.



















This is a great improvement over what was original. The brain child who placed the "Header" (if you can call it that) did such a poor job of planning. Seriously, there were (2) 2×6x10' sistered together, resting on a single jack stud on either side. The decision to remove this undersized beam was the perfect excuse to do it right.

This was a very painful exercise today as I was working by myself. A series of lolly gags allowed me to slowly jack the LVL's into place. The first one didn't go so well. It was under such tension, it literally sprang out and smacked me in the neck. However, the wall itself was quite secure by other lolly gags staggered along the length of the wall. Kind of shred my insulation but there will be a plastic vapor barrier added before the sheathing goes up. So it's all good.

Needless to say, those suckers are quite heavy (12'-7" x 11-7/8") and trying to press them into place was a challenge. Ultimately, I was able to install them then remove all lolly gags and everything fits much better before.

I also did a bit of experimenting and have decided to install my 12" sliding CMS into a cubby hole in the new wall. This in an effort to control the dust. I will build a dust shroud/chute that will funnel into the dust collector piping. A blast gate will be installed behind the wall with a push/pull mechanism to open/close the blast gate from the front side of the wall. I clamped the miter saw in place to work out my concept.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

twoblacklabs said:


> *Proof of Concept and LVL Beam*
> 
> Most of the floor is complete but there are areas I couldn't address until the wall was reconstructed. Once the wall sheathing was gone I found damage to the foundation wall.
> 
> ...


Looking GOOD!

Keep on plugging away…

Take care…


----------



## twoblacklabs (Jan 12, 2011)

twoblacklabs said:


> *Proof of Concept and LVL Beam*
> 
> Most of the floor is complete but there are areas I couldn't address until the wall was reconstructed. Once the wall sheathing was gone I found damage to the foundation wall.
> 
> ...


Thanks Joe!


----------



## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

twoblacklabs said:


> *Proof of Concept and LVL Beam*
> 
> Most of the floor is complete but there are areas I couldn't address until the wall was reconstructed. Once the wall sheathing was gone I found damage to the foundation wall.
> 
> ...


I dig the miter saw move! Looks like you even remembered to leave room for drywall. You've done this before haven't you.


----------



## johnstoneb (Jun 14, 2012)

twoblacklabs said:


> *Proof of Concept and LVL Beam*
> 
> Most of the floor is complete but there are areas I couldn't address until the wall was reconstructed. Once the wall sheathing was gone I found damage to the foundation wall.
> 
> ...


Great idea with the miter saw. The one crack in the concrete looks like normal thermal expansion. I think you'll be very happy with the larger opening. You won't be wishing later that you had made the opening bigger.


----------



## twoblacklabs (Jan 12, 2011)

twoblacklabs said:


> *Proof of Concept and LVL Beam*
> 
> Most of the floor is complete but there are areas I couldn't address until the wall was reconstructed. Once the wall sheathing was gone I found damage to the foundation wall.
> 
> ...


@chrisstef, No, I have not done it before. However my former career was an architectural draftsman. I really miss that. No blood or guts and you don't deal with despair everyday.

Not really liking the whole drywall thing. Thinking about 5/8 OSB instead.

@johnstoneb. It might be. However the section to right of jack studs is free floating. No rear in the concrete either. Can't bring myself to just build it like it was, using that as bearing surface.


----------



## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

twoblacklabs said:


> *Proof of Concept and LVL Beam*
> 
> Most of the floor is complete but there are areas I couldn't address until the wall was reconstructed. Once the wall sheathing was gone I found damage to the foundation wall.
> 
> ...


Congrats, great idea to install the saw in the wall


----------

