# HF Mobile Base is Dead On and Rock Solid!



## NBeener

It's always a good day, when we can add another product to the list of Harbor Freight gems.

Thanks for the review.


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## jakep_82

I assembled one of these mobile bases a couple days ago and I too like it. I used a 2×4 I had laying around and ripped it to 1.25" strips. I left it 1.5" tall and found that it worked fine. The only issue with the extra height was that I had to notch the corners so the feet can retract all the way. Even with pine it has plenty of strength for my ~200lb drill press. I have another one waiting to be assembled for my bandsaw.


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## 308Gap

Thanks Bob great write up, this will save me from buying expensive coasters.


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## DIYaholic

I have one still in the box, awaiting my return from vacation. I may even pick up another one or two.

Thanks for sharing you thoughts.


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## Ken90712

Nice job and good review. Glad it worked out.


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## russ960

Thank you for sharing. I've been looking at getting one of these for my tablesaw.


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## curliejones

Just like Bob, I spent many hours lately researching and looking at locking casters considering outrigger designs for a homemade base as well as the manufactured versions. After seeing that many folks are disappointed in what others love (regardless of price), I decided to start with an inexpensive Harbor Freight base, but just one, to get a feel for quality. I decided to "tip my toe in" and start with my greatest chance for success, my lightest tool, a 13" Ridgid lunchbox planer (85 lbs + stand 15 = 100 lbs?). I just put one together late yesterday and found that their formula in the paperwork did not completely work for me. I first assembled the long sides (Wood A in instructions) and then assembled the shorter side (Wood B) and found the wood butted into the long sides keeping the opening about 3/8" wider than my measurement. I simply trimmed off the 3/8" and assembled it. Had I not cut off the 3/8" of both short runners, the base would have been wider than I wanted and the rear short runner would have just about touched the fixed wheels. Like jakep above, I decided to leave the wood runners 1-1/2" deep, after carefully eyeballing the feet. I too notched the 1- 1/2" depth about 3/8" deep and 5/8" in from each end to clear the feet so they could completely retract. Only one end of each of the long runners is notched, while both ends of one of the short runners is notched; the other end of the base does not have feet. Considering where the bolt holes are located in the metal pieces, I'm not sure that 1-1/2" wood is any stronger, since there is only a certain amount of wood above the holes, bearing the weight of the tool. It does simplify matters, though, if you are using std 2X material. 
- Hardware shortage? The fixed wheel end of the long runner has only two available holes in addition to the hole for mounting the fixed wheel. I did not find it necessary to have three bolts on all the other legs while only two were possible in this spot. I used inner most and outermost holes for stability and had enough to use three bolts each on the business end where the feet and swivel casters are located. I used a drill press to drill 3/8" holes in SYP and had no issues with lining up. For those of you w/o a press, consider using a doweling jig to guide your bit perpendicular to the work.
After opening the box and getting my hands on it, I was happy with the quality of the product. The important thing seems to me is to measure constantly and keep the assembly the right size. A cardboard cut-out would be a good pattrn for this, if you're so inclined. I installed the fixed wheel on the left side (facing the planer) and the swivels and feet end on the right with the idea that feeding material will be perpendicular to the rolling direction of the fixed wheels. Additionally, the feet seem to work well at anchoring the assembly. So far, it's all good and I may try something a little heavier on another mobile base soon. My drill press and band saw are both in the 200 lb range and it should handle that if I use hardwood runners next time. 
The pics show finished product, that the fully-retracted feet still fit beneath the full 1-1/2" material (so even deeper by another 1/4" would work), the rabbet cut to clear feet, and remember - measure thrice and cut once (if your fingers are out of the way).
My opinion, this is more than adequate for lighter tools and certainly priced right! I have a 1/4" hole in each leg of the stand that is about 6" from the bottom. I think I'll devise an anchor using some 100# steel leader and small S-hooks for tie-down. Any other suggestions are for this is welcome.


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## gatorrob86

curlie,

Looking at the middle photo (the one with your foot and a wrench), I noticed something that may have to do with the instructions formula not working. One of the wood pieces (vertical in photo) appears to be extending beyond the end of the corner bracket (about a 1/2"). By making the end of the wood flush with the end of the bracket, the formula should work. For the corner with the fixed wheel, the wood should stop where the channel stops. I have added a new photo to the review to show this.

I just reviewed the instructions and don't see any mention of this. A note to that affect would probably eliminate a lot of frustration. I am going to edit my review to include this.


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## Wooddiva

Nice timing! I just picked one up last weekend and was wondering how it would perform! Hopefully, I'll have time this weekend to put it together. Thanks for the review.


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## b2rtch

I also use one for many years and it works great.


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## curliejones

Hi Bob! I agree that would have prevented the cross piece from butting into it, BUT, this piece was cut to 30", 1-3/4" less than the toolbase, just as the instructions suggest. Had I moved the brackets outward, or the wood inward then the support corners would have been too far apart for the tool base to fit snugly. Since I had quite a time getting the tool base into position, perhaps the 1/2" would have provided a comfortable clearance at each corner, but the instructions did not mention leaving a little breathing room. I made the inside measure of the brackets themselves the same as my tool base, not even allowing for the thickness of the heads of the bolts. I knew ahead that the plastic feet on my tool base could fit beneath the heads of the bolts, so I left no extra room at all. I cannot really see where the 1/2" extra length would hurt anything and would be absolutely necessary to allow for the heads of bolts on many, many stands, (sets of legs). My goal was to follow your lead and have it work out to match the instructions OR to write instructions that would be helpful to others. That is why I took pics as I went. The one "TAKE HOME MESSAGE" to others is to treat it like one of your woodworking projects and "dry fit" everything as you go. Clamp the ends onto the wood runners and assure the distance between corners is right, then mark bolt holes for drilling. After having done this one, the next one will be a piece of cake, even if I have to go back and read what we've all written regarding assembly! WOW! Take my own advice???? That would be a new one! G'day all!


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## bobasaurus

I have one of these on my ~200 lb bandsaw and it works fantastic. I used white oak for the rails, but a pine 2×4 would have been fine as well. The directions are a little difficult to follow, but once you see how everything goes together it makes sense. The two swivel casters + two straight make it fairly easy to pivot then roll straight where I want it (and in reverse to get it back in the corner when I pull in the car). Here it is:


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## curliejones

Since these HF bases have a footprint slightly larger the tool base, I wanted to take advantage of that for stability during "High-speed maneuvers". Digging aropund the shop, I decided to use pipe strapping cut into a five-inch length. I put a wood screw through one of the many holes in the strapping and into the wood base. I used a small bolt and nut through a hole near the other end of the strap and through an existing hole in the tool stand's leg near the bottom. This insured a nice tight fit of the stand to the base and should remove any "tipping" tendency during a move. The strapping is galvanized metal about 3/4" wide and comes in a roll in plumbing supplies.


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## Chipy

I found that it is easier to drill the holes in the wood with a hand drill and clamp the wood in the position that you would like it.I used the drill press to drill the first 3 holes but the holes lined up better with a hand drill.This is a decent mobile base nice review!


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## Wolffarmer

This sounds like a good base for many of us. HF has come a long way the over the years but I have yet to see any of their items reviewed in a major publication. Now that would be something.

I have their cabinet TS that was discontinued in 2010. It is a sweety for what it is. A basic saw for amateurs or a 2nd saw for pros. It is the same as several other brands though it may have a different motor. Which will probably out live me any way.

Randy


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## mrbreezeet1

When you use the formula in the instructions, and you measure your base, say the base of my sander is right at 25" long and 18" wide. 
Do I take my 1 3/4" off the 25 and add the 5/8" to the 18" or do I need to add a little to the base measurements, 
say start with 25 1/2" X 18 1/2" or can I just use the exact measurement of 25 X 18?
Hope that is clear
Thanks,
Tony


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## curliejones

If I remember this correctly (and I cheated - went back and read the original postings), just making it to the exact measurement will allow for the 1/2" clearance. You may need this for clearing the hex bolt heads. 
Just FYI - I made a couple more of these after being happy with the first one. However, I used galvanized square tubing instead of SYP ( I did not have any hardwood handy). Nice and strong for heavier tools and the shiny metal is soooo purty!


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## mrbreezeet1

Ok, so then making it to the exact measurement,then applying the formula should be OK. 
I have to come up with some wood or find some square tubing. 
Wonder if Lowes has it without being too costly?


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## mrbreezeet1

Yeah, I guess the exact measurement,then applying the formula, was OK, 
I would have liked to use the metal too, but it was too dear at lowes. They had the 1 1/4" square with the holes all in it, but they were calling it 1 1/2" (measured 1 1/4") but they were like $22.00 each, for a 3foot long piece.
Ended up getting these treated lumber barristers I guess they were called, for out door stair railings. 
They were only about a dollar each. 
(LOL, I got 4, and don't y'a know, only needed 2 of them for the whole base, no big deal though.)
They were just a hair over 1 1/4" and I planed them down a little. 
Thing is though, this is for a powermatic sander, (belt) and did you ever see the "ears" on the front and rear of the base, where you would bolt the base to the floor if your shop was in a real building, where the tool could stay in one place. 
Well I built the base to length to allow the "ears" to stay, but I am going to re do this set up, and cut the "ears" off
and shorten the base a bit. I think it will be a little more stable like that. 
Only thing a little different I did, was to Tack weld the corner pieces that have the docking feet in them. 
You know, the ones you wind down to dock it. 
I just thought it would be easier tacked into place than having to juggle the corner piece, the rails, and the casters. Worked out pretty well like that. 
I was going to cut the "ears" off tonight, but I got this little cutting torch off craigslist, and had not used it yet, but 
finding the hoses need replaced. 
It's one of those little ones, like tractor supply sells, I think there about $300.00 new, then you have to have your tanks filled. I gave about $100.00 for this one, and had to buy about a $10.00 fitting, and now looks like I need a hose set, but still thats not too bad I guess. Has some gas and oxygen in the tanks too, not sure how much. 
Hope there is no problem filling these tanks, if there out of date, The guy said (at the welding supply place) "they would just exchange them". He said he was not worried about the date. 
Same with the Argon bottle on my little MIG welder. 
I just got that too, (used) for about $100.00 too. It's a little one, 125 amp IIRC, but it's decent I guess, it already had the Argon bottle and the regulator. So I am still learning to use it too. It is just a little 110 volt unit. 
Well, I was running the sander, getting the tracking correct, and it did not seem super smooth. 
Then started making some noise, howling, just didn't sound right. I pulled the belt for the blower, and 
it is smooth now, and quite, so it must be the bearings in the blower. You can hear them when you 
turn the blower by hand. 
Did anyone here ever replace the bearings in the blower unit on one of these, and is it that hard of a job?
I mean, I could just run it as it is, and hook a shop vac to the belt guard, but it would be nice to have the self contained unit. 
Thanks, 
Tony

On these powermatic belt sanders, this in one that has the vacuum blower in the base, it is belt driven.


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## mrbreezeet1

*On these powermatic belt sanders, this in one that has the vacuum blower in the base, it is belt driven.*
Now why that is coming up under my name, I do not know. 
It is not like that in the draft. 
Should be right above
*"Well, I was running the sander, getting the tracking correct, and it did not seem super smooth. "*


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## curliejones

Rock Solid - revisited
MY HF mobile tool bases are holding up fine and for the fellow LJ with some questions, here are a couple of pics and comments. Yes, I did put a short 5/16" bolt thru each corner plate to hold the plywood platform in place. I did not bolt down the jointer, but rather chose to use the leveling feet (rubber-coated). I see nothing wrong with bolting it down, just not necessary unless you are exceeding the speed limit when moving the jointer about. 
Additionally, please realize that I used some Southern Yellow Pine choosing sections of construction-grade lumber that had no knots and it too has been successful. I chose pine for mostly lighter tools, but do have a couple of 150+ lb tools on SYP runners with no problems. I found that by "eyeballing" (technical term) the direction of throughput for wood, I could make the base so that the fixed wheels rolled perpendicular (90 degrees) to that direction. That brainstorm came after this jointer stand. I often do not bother lowering pads to the floor if the work piece has little to no weight to it. 
Regarding the swivel wheels brackets - notice in the photos how one hole from the bracket lines up with the corner piece and the other hole does not. That is why a washer is included to be used as a spacer so that the bracket ends up in the same plane. I hope not to offend you or anyone by being too explicit with these instructions, but the too much info is better than too little. I tried to show the swivel wheel bracket mounted in position and the presence of the spacer washer. Hope this helps someone!


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