# Hand Planes



## TimC (Sep 17, 2009)

*Big beast came in the mail today.*










Well today I received my big plane. It is 26" long by 3" wide. It is HUGE. Stamped New York Tool Co on the plane and the iron is Auburn Tool Co. It has some wear and tear. The handle needs to be replaced, but the bottom is flat and no major cracks. I'm just getting into the wooden hand planes. Could someone tell me type of wood should be used for the handle?


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## racerglen (Oct 15, 2010)

TimC said:


> *Big beast came in the mail today.*
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I'm thinking it's usualy Beech on those guys..


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## TimC (Sep 17, 2009)

TimC said:


> *Big beast came in the mail today.*
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That is what I was thinking, but wasn't 100% positive.


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## jcees (Dec 31, 2007)

TimC said:


> *Big beast came in the mail today.*
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If you're looking for a match then beech is the ticket. Rather, being you're not restoring to an original state, i.e. museum restoration, why not explore using a contrasting wood like walnut or something figured? You could also pretty it up by remaking the strike button and/or wedge to match.

Before you go any further, you'll want to turn the tool upside down and check it for winding. I've owned a dozen of these larger size planes and still own some. I just restored one made of live oak that had been refit sometime in it's life with a custom made brass screw cap. Polished up real pretty. Anyway, the tool had a bit of winding in it but it leveled right out with a few well placed passes from a sharp #4. In the end I still had to close the mouth up to get it to reach its potential.

All in all it is a great education in plane dynamics. And once you make a junkyard dog sing things will never be the same. Good luck.

always,
J.C.


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## TimC (Sep 17, 2009)

TimC said:


> *Big beast came in the mail today.*
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Thanks J.C. I was debating whether or not to make a handle made from a different kind of wood. I first have to get the iron cleaned up. The blade is in decent shape, but lots of crap all over it.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

TimC said:


> *Big beast came in the mail today.*
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I typically look through the scrap pile and find something that will look good. Its almost impossible to match the 100 years of abuse and neglect.

Like this one made of ash.

I will do the same with a missing wedge.

Its all in your taste.


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## TimC (Sep 17, 2009)

TimC said:


> *Big beast came in the mail today.*
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Don, I'm jealous of your restore talents.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

TimC said:


> *Big beast came in the mail today.*
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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

TimC said:


> *Big beast came in the mail today.*
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Chuck it looks like you have a bit of work ahead of you. If I can help let me know. Don has brought some back that I would have gave up on.


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## TimC (Sep 17, 2009)

TimC said:


> *Big beast came in the mail today.*
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Both of you guys have done wonders on planes. Hopefully this will turn out nice. I have 12 molding planes come to my shop within the next week. Lots of work/learning ahead of me.


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## TimC (Sep 17, 2009)

TimC said:


> *Big beast came in the mail today.*
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Before I start prying on this thing to make repairs, how is the tote held on. Right now there are a couple nail half way driven into the tote holding it all together.


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

TimC said:


> *Big beast came in the mail today.*
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Most of them by now someone has put a screw or nail in. They were hide glued in. Take care of the mortice.


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## TimC (Sep 17, 2009)

TimC said:


> *Big beast came in the mail today.*
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"Take care of the mortice"<---as in cleaning it up?


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

TimC said:


> *Big beast came in the mail today.*
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Yes. When you make your new tote, a nice neat clean mortice will make like easier.


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## sandhill (Aug 28, 2007)

TimC said:


> *Big beast came in the mail today.*
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I will watched this video and thought I would give it a shot myself as soon as I am back in the shop and unpacked


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## TimC (Sep 17, 2009)

*NY Tool Co iron clean-up*

I got the iron cleaned up yesterday. Check out my website for more details. I was pretty impressed with the outcome. I gotta get it sharpened now and start cleaning the plane itself. I removed the handle the other day and cleaned out the mortise for a spot for the new handle. Have some left over mahogany, anyone think that will work? Which way is best for the grain to run, vertical or horizontal?


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## ratchet (Jan 12, 2008)

TimC said:


> *NY Tool Co iron clean-up*
> 
> I got the iron cleaned up yesterday. Check out my website for more details. I was pretty impressed with the outcome. I gotta get it sharpened now and start cleaning the plane itself. I removed the handle the other day and cleaned out the mortise for a spot for the new handle. Have some left over mahogany, anyone think that will work? Which way is best for the grain to run, vertical or horizontal?


nice work. looking forward to future installments.


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## TimC (Sep 17, 2009)

TimC said:


> *NY Tool Co iron clean-up*
> 
> I got the iron cleaned up yesterday. Check out my website for more details. I was pretty impressed with the outcome. I gotta get it sharpened now and start cleaning the plane itself. I removed the handle the other day and cleaned out the mortise for a spot for the new handle. Have some left over mahogany, anyone think that will work? Which way is best for the grain to run, vertical or horizontal?


Thanks for stopping by ratchet. This is a big learning experience for me, kind of learn as you go (with the help of others).


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

TimC said:


> *NY Tool Co iron clean-up*
> 
> I got the iron cleaned up yesterday. Check out my website for more details. I was pretty impressed with the outcome. I gotta get it sharpened now and start cleaning the plane itself. I removed the handle the other day and cleaned out the mortise for a spot for the new handle. Have some left over mahogany, anyone think that will work? Which way is best for the grain to run, vertical or horizontal?


Vertical grain is strongest. But depending on the shape of the handle, it may not be possible. Stanley has made totes with horizontal grain for a century and a half. They break, but not easily. Of course those were made from very hard rosewood.

What happened to Tuesday Tool Time?


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## TimC (Sep 17, 2009)

TimC said:


> *NY Tool Co iron clean-up*
> 
> I got the iron cleaned up yesterday. Check out my website for more details. I was pretty impressed with the outcome. I gotta get it sharpened now and start cleaning the plane itself. I removed the handle the other day and cleaned out the mortise for a spot for the new handle. Have some left over mahogany, anyone think that will work? Which way is best for the grain to run, vertical or horizontal?


Thanks for the tip Stumpy. I will do the Tool Time again soon. I'm more on a learning curve right now. I have a few things that I'm working on in the shop and have been really busy with the family. Maybe I will do one this coming week on my Dremel multimax. I opened and have used it quite a bit to see how it is and how I like it.


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

TimC said:


> *NY Tool Co iron clean-up*
> 
> I got the iron cleaned up yesterday. Check out my website for more details. I was pretty impressed with the outcome. I gotta get it sharpened now and start cleaning the plane itself. I removed the handle the other day and cleaned out the mortise for a spot for the new handle. Have some left over mahogany, anyone think that will work? Which way is best for the grain to run, vertical or horizontal?


Nice looking iron. You are coming right on along.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

TimC said:


> *NY Tool Co iron clean-up*
> 
> I got the iron cleaned up yesterday. Check out my website for more details. I was pretty impressed with the outcome. I gotta get it sharpened now and start cleaning the plane itself. I removed the handle the other day and cleaned out the mortise for a spot for the new handle. Have some left over mahogany, anyone think that will work? Which way is best for the grain to run, vertical or horizontal?


my suggestion is to grab a template from lee valley it will give you the proper grain direction, then just add the additional mass needed.

i see shavings in your future.


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## TimC (Sep 17, 2009)

TimC said:


> *NY Tool Co iron clean-up*
> 
> I got the iron cleaned up yesterday. Check out my website for more details. I was pretty impressed with the outcome. I gotta get it sharpened now and start cleaning the plane itself. I removed the handle the other day and cleaned out the mortise for a spot for the new handle. Have some left over mahogany, anyone think that will work? Which way is best for the grain to run, vertical or horizontal?


Printed and Saved to favorite websites. Thanks Don.


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## TimC (Sep 17, 2009)

*GLOAT!!!*


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

TimC said:


> *GLOAT!!!*


You scoundrel! I'm on a molder kick right now.


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## TimC (Sep 17, 2009)

TimC said:


> *GLOAT!!!*


I need to get in the shop and test these out. The irons still feel fairly sharp on most of them.


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

TimC said:


> *GLOAT!!!*


A nice catch. You are getting a nice collection.


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## TimC (Sep 17, 2009)

TimC said:


> *GLOAT!!!*


Thanks dave. A little at a time.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

TimC said:


> *GLOAT!!!*


I did my molder gloat a while back. Found a set of 50ish. Still working on getting them in shape. Your off to a great start.


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## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

TimC said:


> *GLOAT!!!*


Very nice collection of planes. Congratulations.

helluvawreck
https://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


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## steliart (Jan 15, 2011)

TimC said:


> *GLOAT!!!*


nice cutch


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## TimC (Sep 17, 2009)

TimC said:


> *GLOAT!!!*


Don- 50? ha you put my 12 to shame. I have tried a few out and they work pretty good.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

TimC said:


> *GLOAT!!!*


http://lumberjocks.com/topics/30739

this was one of the bunch to.


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## TimC (Sep 17, 2009)

*NY Tool Co Restoration- Just BLO it!*

Any comment is appreciated!!!!


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

TimC said:


> *NY Tool Co Restoration- Just BLO it!*
> 
> Any comment is appreciated!!!!


very good. You'll get many differences of opinions on the use of BLO. Its a love hate relationship.










Its not a good picture, but you get the idea. I keep a throw-away brush right in the container and soak it down once in a while, then flip it over once in a while, while I'm working in the shop. I typical don't leave it over night unless the wood is really dry, but I will soak it twice if required. Once you take it out, wipe it down good. Take as much off as you can get off and buff it with a rag otherwise the oil will stay tacky if its to thick.

Small pieces you can soak in a zip lock bag.


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## TimC (Sep 17, 2009)

TimC said:


> *NY Tool Co Restoration- Just BLO it!*
> 
> Any comment is appreciated!!!!


I read total immersion (i.e small pieces soaked in zip lock bag) won't do the trick because it won't "breathe" and draw the oil in. Any problems when you've done it?


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

TimC said:


> *NY Tool Co Restoration- Just BLO it!*
> 
> Any comment is appreciated!!!!


Chuck I let it wick up te grain the same way Don does. Its good to see you are researching before you jump into something you can't reverse. Never listen to the people at the box stores.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

TimC said:


> *NY Tool Co Restoration- Just BLO it!*
> 
> Any comment is appreciated!!!!


to be honest, I don't typically use the zip lock trick. My wife save all the little trays from things like the deli meats for me. I use them. After I just seal the top and leave the BLO right in them. I do totally submerge smaller pieces and haven't seen an issue, but its possible there's always something sticking out the top.


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## steliart (Jan 15, 2011)

TimC said:


> *NY Tool Co Restoration- Just BLO it!*
> 
> Any comment is appreciated!!!!


thx 4 the info on the oils


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## TimC (Sep 17, 2009)

TimC said:


> *NY Tool Co Restoration- Just BLO it!*
> 
> Any comment is appreciated!!!!


Hey dave sadly it wasn't from a typical big box store. It was from a woodworking store. I was in total shock after I found out the correct info, but we are all humans. It got to me though that they just kind of threw an answer out to me without knowing the facts.


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## TimC (Sep 17, 2009)

*NY TOOL CO PLANE- Oilin' her up*

Well I finally got around to getting some BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil). While I was waiting for the firehouse table stain to dry I grabbed a plastic container and squirted some BLO in it and placed the plane straight up and down. I must say I was highly impressed with how quickly it started to work. You could literally see the oil getting drawn up through the plane. In about 10 minutes it had pulled the oil up about an inch high (out of the 22" length of the plane). Post some more pics tomorrow on it all oiled up!


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## ratchet (Jan 12, 2008)

TimC said:


> *NY TOOL CO PLANE- Oilin' her up*
> 
> Well I finally got around to getting some BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil). While I was waiting for the firehouse table stain to dry I grabbed a plastic container and squirted some BLO in it and placed the plane straight up and down. I must say I was highly impressed with how quickly it started to work. You could literally see the oil getting drawn up through the plane. In about 10 minutes it had pulled the oil up about an inch high (out of the 22" length of the plane). Post some more pics tomorrow on it all oiled up!


cool.


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

TimC said:


> *NY TOOL CO PLANE- Oilin' her up*
> 
> Well I finally got around to getting some BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil). While I was waiting for the firehouse table stain to dry I grabbed a plastic container and squirted some BLO in it and placed the plane straight up and down. I must say I was highly impressed with how quickly it started to work. You could literally see the oil getting drawn up through the plane. In about 10 minutes it had pulled the oil up about an inch high (out of the 22" length of the plane). Post some more pics tomorrow on it all oiled up!


just let it sit flat on the sole in the bath the night over and splash the rest 
with a pencel wait 20 minuts and do it again wait 20 minuts again maybee 3-4 times 
until it caant suck further then vibe of with a rag 
then wait from two days to a few weeks depeding on when the serface feels dry 
then polish it with a rag or a layer of wax let dry and polish

remember to spread out / hang up the rags to dry and then despose them in a airtight container 
to avoid self combustion

Dennis


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

TimC said:


> *NY TOOL CO PLANE- Oilin' her up*
> 
> Well I finally got around to getting some BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil). While I was waiting for the firehouse table stain to dry I grabbed a plastic container and squirted some BLO in it and placed the plane straight up and down. I must say I was highly impressed with how quickly it started to work. You could literally see the oil getting drawn up through the plane. In about 10 minutes it had pulled the oil up about an inch high (out of the 22" length of the plane). Post some more pics tomorrow on it all oiled up!


Nice work! Its it coming right on along.


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## TimC (Sep 17, 2009)

TimC said:


> *NY TOOL CO PLANE- Oilin' her up*
> 
> Well I finally got around to getting some BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil). While I was waiting for the firehouse table stain to dry I grabbed a plastic container and squirted some BLO in it and placed the plane straight up and down. I must say I was highly impressed with how quickly it started to work. You could literally see the oil getting drawn up through the plane. In about 10 minutes it had pulled the oil up about an inch high (out of the 22" length of the plane). Post some more pics tomorrow on it all oiled up!


Thanks Dennis for the tip!


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## TimC (Sep 17, 2009)

*Using the Cove Plane*

I have a lot of projects that my wife (HI Nicole!) wants me to do involving wood. Well it never seems like they get done and I feel bad because I want her to be happy. She asked me to make her a little shelf to go over the back of the couch to place picture frames on or what ever else ends up going there. I figured this would be a great chance to practice some of my hand tool skills and see how it goes. I measured out the back of the couch to see what the length should be which was 78″. It is a little skinnier than the couch, but that is ok because the couch ends kind of drop off. I then flopped down on the couch and got a distance from the wall to where my head wouldn't hit it if I jumped down onto the couch, 7″ was good. I found the perfect board of red oak, 8″x 100″ with a little bit of cupping. I pulled out my hand saw, cut a straight end, measured from that point and got my length. Then I ripped it down. I then grabbed my No. 4 Stanley and got to town flattening the board. Next came the fun part and the one thing I had been looking forward to since I got them. I looked through all my antique hand planes and decided on using the cove. I had just recently sharpened it, so I was ready to go. Well here is the end results. It didn't like the end grain too much, but it went through the straight grain like butter.


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

TimC said:


> *Using the Cove Plane*
> 
> I have a lot of projects that my wife (HI Nicole!) wants me to do involving wood. Well it never seems like they get done and I feel bad because I want her to be happy. She asked me to make her a little shelf to go over the back of the couch to place picture frames on or what ever else ends up going there. I figured this would be a great chance to practice some of my hand tool skills and see how it goes. I measured out the back of the couch to see what the length should be which was 78″. It is a little skinnier than the couch, but that is ok because the couch ends kind of drop off. I then flopped down on the couch and got a distance from the wall to where my head wouldn't hit it if I jumped down onto the couch, 7″ was good. I found the perfect board of red oak, 8″x 100″ with a little bit of cupping. I pulled out my hand saw, cut a straight end, measured from that point and got my length. Then I ripped it down. I then grabbed my No. 4 Stanley and got to town flattening the board. Next came the fun part and the one thing I had been looking forward to since I got them. I looked through all my antique hand planes and decided on using the cove. I had just recently sharpened it, so I was ready to go. Well here is the end results. It didn't like the end grain too much, but it went through the straight grain like butter.


not bad for a first shot 
next time do the end grain first 
then will the planing with the grain take the tearout at the end
and if you draw the hollow part and make two steps with a rabbitplane 
or shoulderplane then you wont wear the old wooden plane so much 
another tip to the endgrain planing is to use a backerboard to be scrapped

Dennis


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

TimC said:


> *Using the Cove Plane*
> 
> I have a lot of projects that my wife (HI Nicole!) wants me to do involving wood. Well it never seems like they get done and I feel bad because I want her to be happy. She asked me to make her a little shelf to go over the back of the couch to place picture frames on or what ever else ends up going there. I figured this would be a great chance to practice some of my hand tool skills and see how it goes. I measured out the back of the couch to see what the length should be which was 78″. It is a little skinnier than the couch, but that is ok because the couch ends kind of drop off. I then flopped down on the couch and got a distance from the wall to where my head wouldn't hit it if I jumped down onto the couch, 7″ was good. I found the perfect board of red oak, 8″x 100″ with a little bit of cupping. I pulled out my hand saw, cut a straight end, measured from that point and got my length. Then I ripped it down. I then grabbed my No. 4 Stanley and got to town flattening the board. Next came the fun part and the one thing I had been looking forward to since I got them. I looked through all my antique hand planes and decided on using the cove. I had just recently sharpened it, so I was ready to go. Well here is the end results. It didn't like the end grain too much, but it went through the straight grain like butter.


Oak is a big step. It is a very hard wood. Like Dennis I would start on the end grain. Start on the end away from you and take light short passes the work your way back to the end near you.
great work


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## TimC (Sep 17, 2009)

TimC said:


> *Using the Cove Plane*
> 
> I have a lot of projects that my wife (HI Nicole!) wants me to do involving wood. Well it never seems like they get done and I feel bad because I want her to be happy. She asked me to make her a little shelf to go over the back of the couch to place picture frames on or what ever else ends up going there. I figured this would be a great chance to practice some of my hand tool skills and see how it goes. I measured out the back of the couch to see what the length should be which was 78″. It is a little skinnier than the couch, but that is ok because the couch ends kind of drop off. I then flopped down on the couch and got a distance from the wall to where my head wouldn't hit it if I jumped down onto the couch, 7″ was good. I found the perfect board of red oak, 8″x 100″ with a little bit of cupping. I pulled out my hand saw, cut a straight end, measured from that point and got my length. Then I ripped it down. I then grabbed my No. 4 Stanley and got to town flattening the board. Next came the fun part and the one thing I had been looking forward to since I got them. I looked through all my antique hand planes and decided on using the cove. I had just recently sharpened it, so I was ready to go. Well here is the end results. It didn't like the end grain too much, but it went through the straight grain like butter.


Yeah i had a brain fart with the end grain. Actually I was like "I wonder how well this will work" and just never stopped on the long grain. When I got done I knew I was in trouble.


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## knockknock (Jun 13, 2012)

TimC said:


> *Using the Cove Plane*
> 
> I have a lot of projects that my wife (HI Nicole!) wants me to do involving wood. Well it never seems like they get done and I feel bad because I want her to be happy. She asked me to make her a little shelf to go over the back of the couch to place picture frames on or what ever else ends up going there. I figured this would be a great chance to practice some of my hand tool skills and see how it goes. I measured out the back of the couch to see what the length should be which was 78″. It is a little skinnier than the couch, but that is ok because the couch ends kind of drop off. I then flopped down on the couch and got a distance from the wall to where my head wouldn't hit it if I jumped down onto the couch, 7″ was good. I found the perfect board of red oak, 8″x 100″ with a little bit of cupping. I pulled out my hand saw, cut a straight end, measured from that point and got my length. Then I ripped it down. I then grabbed my No. 4 Stanley and got to town flattening the board. Next came the fun part and the one thing I had been looking forward to since I got them. I looked through all my antique hand planes and decided on using the cove. I had just recently sharpened it, so I was ready to go. Well here is the end results. It didn't like the end grain too much, but it went through the straight grain like butter.


If you don't mind loosing a little width. Plane down the front edge of your shelf just enough to eliminate the tear-out. Then re-do the cove on that edge.


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## TimC (Sep 17, 2009)

TimC said:


> *Using the Cove Plane*
> 
> I have a lot of projects that my wife (HI Nicole!) wants me to do involving wood. Well it never seems like they get done and I feel bad because I want her to be happy. She asked me to make her a little shelf to go over the back of the couch to place picture frames on or what ever else ends up going there. I figured this would be a great chance to practice some of my hand tool skills and see how it goes. I measured out the back of the couch to see what the length should be which was 78″. It is a little skinnier than the couch, but that is ok because the couch ends kind of drop off. I then flopped down on the couch and got a distance from the wall to where my head wouldn't hit it if I jumped down onto the couch, 7″ was good. I found the perfect board of red oak, 8″x 100″ with a little bit of cupping. I pulled out my hand saw, cut a straight end, measured from that point and got my length. Then I ripped it down. I then grabbed my No. 4 Stanley and got to town flattening the board. Next came the fun part and the one thing I had been looking forward to since I got them. I looked through all my antique hand planes and decided on using the cove. I had just recently sharpened it, so I was ready to go. Well here is the end results. It didn't like the end grain too much, but it went through the straight grain like butter.


I thought about that. Not only would it give me some more practice, but take away the tearout. After weighing the pros and cons and looking at where it is going to go, this edge will never be seen unless you purposely go to that corner. I think I might just call this a lesson learned and go make another shelf to redeem myself!


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

TimC said:


> *Using the Cove Plane*
> 
> I have a lot of projects that my wife (HI Nicole!) wants me to do involving wood. Well it never seems like they get done and I feel bad because I want her to be happy. She asked me to make her a little shelf to go over the back of the couch to place picture frames on or what ever else ends up going there. I figured this would be a great chance to practice some of my hand tool skills and see how it goes. I measured out the back of the couch to see what the length should be which was 78″. It is a little skinnier than the couch, but that is ok because the couch ends kind of drop off. I then flopped down on the couch and got a distance from the wall to where my head wouldn't hit it if I jumped down onto the couch, 7″ was good. I found the perfect board of red oak, 8″x 100″ with a little bit of cupping. I pulled out my hand saw, cut a straight end, measured from that point and got my length. Then I ripped it down. I then grabbed my No. 4 Stanley and got to town flattening the board. Next came the fun part and the one thing I had been looking forward to since I got them. I looked through all my antique hand planes and decided on using the cove. I had just recently sharpened it, so I was ready to go. Well here is the end results. It didn't like the end grain too much, but it went through the straight grain like butter.


Thats the spirit.


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