# Arts and Crafts Entertainment Center / Sideboard



## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*Side Panels*

Here is the next project, an entertainment center that is reminiscent of a Stickley sideboard. The central slat detail gives a nod to Kevin Rodel. The backsplash features my "wedge and strap" detail, also found on my A&C dressers. 
















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Leg blanks are laminated from 3/4" stock. Next I add 1/4" thick veneers on two sides. Even though the finished veneers will only be 3/32" thick, I leave them 1/4" thick for now. I find that 1/4" strips plane up better, and are easier to glue to the leg blanks. 








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The only tricky thing about this glueup is making sure the thin strips stay proud of the leg blanks. 








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To establish the correct reveal, I insert a shim under the leg blank. This creates a 1/8" reveal top and bottom. 








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Now the leg is assembled in its rough state. 








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The next step is trimming the veneer flush at the router table. 








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After trimming one edge with a flush trim bit…








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Now I have oversized leg blanks with 4 square corners. They will be planed down to 1-3/4" square. This requires some forethought to prevent plowing through your veneers. For this project I used 1-9/16" blank + 3/16" total veneer width = 1-3/4" leg. 








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Here is my setup to cut stopped grooves in the legs. The grooves will accept corbels on all four legs. Notice the stop on the router fence, and the Emerson clamp guide. I use the clamp guide like a featherboard to hold the leg in position as I route the groove.








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The groove is cut to a depth of 1/4" in two passes. 








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Next I decided on a shape for the corbel, and made a pattern out of MDF core plywood. After bandsawing to rough shape, the corbel was carpet-taped to the pattern. 







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Pattern routing quickly produces 4 identical corbels. I used my dado gauge board to pick a stock thickness to match my router bit. I planed the corbel stock to thickness before I shaped them. 








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Then I notched the bottom of the corbels to fit around the rounded groove. An alternate method would be to chisel the groove square. I like the notch method, as it hides any imperfections in the joint. 








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Here you can see how the notches help with fitting the corbels. One corbel required a quick pass at the oscillating belt sander to lay flush with the leg. 








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I cut 1/4" grooves in the legs to receive the panels and rails. The top rails have haunched tenons. 








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Here we see the back of the panel, which is flush with the inside edges of the legs. The panel is 1/2" thick with a rabbeted edge. 








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Side panel mock-up complete.








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## Kyle82 (Mar 1, 2011)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Side Panels*
> 
> Here is the next project, an entertainment center that is reminiscent of a Stickley sideboard. The central slat detail gives a nod to Kevin Rodel. The backsplash features my "wedge and strap" detail, also found on my A&C dressers.
> 
> ...


Wow… this is awesome. It looks like you got started with this as soon as you finished the chest of drawers.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Side Panels*
> 
> Here is the next project, an entertainment center that is reminiscent of a Stickley sideboard. The central slat detail gives a nod to Kevin Rodel. The backsplash features my "wedge and strap" detail, also found on my A&C dressers.
> 
> ...


I told my wife I would take the month of February off. I guess I didn't quite make it.


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## rodneyh (Feb 8, 2011)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Side Panels*
> 
> Here is the next project, an entertainment center that is reminiscent of a Stickley sideboard. The central slat detail gives a nod to Kevin Rodel. The backsplash features my "wedge and strap" detail, also found on my A&C dressers.
> 
> ...


I've got some projects coming up with large legs as well, and I'm not sure how I'll build them. What made you go with the 1/4" veneer, rather than a lock miter and square center section? I've never done either, and am looking for pros and cons.

Rod


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## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Side Panels*
> 
> Here is the next project, an entertainment center that is reminiscent of a Stickley sideboard. The central slat detail gives a nod to Kevin Rodel. The backsplash features my "wedge and strap" detail, also found on my A&C dressers.
> 
> ...


Good stuff. We have a lot of the same taste and shop routines.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Side Panels*
> 
> Here is the next project, an entertainment center that is reminiscent of a Stickley sideboard. The central slat detail gives a nod to Kevin Rodel. The backsplash features my "wedge and strap" detail, also found on my A&C dressers.
> 
> ...


Rod,
I use the veneer method because it is a technique that is easy for me, and I can get it right 90% of the time. Once you plane veneers down to 3/32" and ease the edges, they seem to disappear. This is the method Gustav Stickley used. 
The locking miter method is also valid. I think my success rate would drop somewhat with this method, and it requires a special bit. The clamping also looks awkward, since pressure needs to be applied in two directions. This is basically the same method developed by Leopold and J.G. Stickley. They dubbed it the "quadrilinear post", and it was milled with two matching cutters in the early 1900's. The modern locking miter version is a single cutter. One piece is routed horizontally, and the mating piece is routed vertically. 
Also remember the easiest method of all, grab some rift sawn 8/4 stock! 
Good luck with whatever method you choose!


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## AandCstyle (Mar 21, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Side Panels*
> 
> Here is the next project, an entertainment center that is reminiscent of a Stickley sideboard. The central slat detail gives a nod to Kevin Rodel. The backsplash features my "wedge and strap" detail, also found on my A&C dressers.
> 
> ...


Willie, thank you for sharing some of your work methods. I found it quite informative. I look forward to more in this series.


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## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Side Panels*
> 
> Here is the next project, an entertainment center that is reminiscent of a Stickley sideboard. The central slat detail gives a nod to Kevin Rodel. The backsplash features my "wedge and strap" detail, also found on my A&C dressers.
> 
> ...


Nice blog on what is sure to be a great looking project!


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## Ken90712 (Sep 2, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Side Panels*
> 
> Here is the next project, an entertainment center that is reminiscent of a Stickley sideboard. The central slat detail gives a nod to Kevin Rodel. The backsplash features my "wedge and strap" detail, also found on my A&C dressers.
> 
> ...


Great work!


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## DocStock (Jul 4, 2009)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Side Panels*
> 
> Here is the next project, an entertainment center that is reminiscent of a Stickley sideboard. The central slat detail gives a nod to Kevin Rodel. The backsplash features my "wedge and strap" detail, also found on my A&C dressers.
> 
> ...


I like the look and your techniques are spot on. Thanks for sharing.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*Pattern Routing Curves, Mortiser Mod, Side Panel Glueup*

For those who are just joining, this is what I am building.








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Time to pattern rout the lower side rails with an arched shape. 








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I made an oversized base with toggle clamps to hold my workpiece in place. After bandsawing the rail to rough shape I clamp it in the jig, and zip it to shape. 








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Arch complete. 








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I stained the front side of the floating panels, and built the side assemblies. I installed some 1/4" foam weatherstripping in the groove to help center the floating panel. 
I had an issue with the clamps near the rear rabbet. Initially the clamps pulled the leg out of square.








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I solved the problem by using small blocks to direct the clamping pressure in-line with the joint. 








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Then I cut tenons on the long lower rail. I clamped them tight to the legs so I could pre-cut mortises for the walnut pegs. This step must be completed before the long rail is glued in place, otherwise the mortiser can't make the cut. 








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I made a modification to my mortiser to eliminate bit binding. My hold-down was not square to the workpiece so I added unequal thickness shims. This does two things… 1) it lets the hold-down sit flat on the workpiece to prevent racking and bit binding, and 2) it prevents marring the workpiece because the shims are made from fir. 








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Then I made a dado jig.








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It features a start block so the router won't ruin the jig, and a removable stop block. This will be used to rout stopped dados in the sides.


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## AandCstyle (Mar 21, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Pattern Routing Curves, Mortiser Mod, Side Panel Glueup*
> 
> For those who are just joining, this is what I am building.
> 
> ...


Willie, that is going to be a great looking piece. I appreciate the process details. Thanks for sharing.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*Dados and Carcase Assembly*

This is my arts and crafts style entertainment center, which is reminiscent of a Stickley sideboard.








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Gluing up the top panel. Here I am gluing up two pairs of boards, while leaving the middle joint dry. This allows me to plane the two planks to uniform thickness before gluing them together to make the top. 








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Next I cut the dados that will receive the shelf members. 

















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I needed to edge the plywood mid-shelf, so I cut the biscuit slots to prepare the joint. I chose a 3-1/2" wide board to edge the shelf because it will later receive the front splat detail. I always prefer to mortise into solid wood rather than plywood whenever possible. 








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Now I was ready to cut dados in the shelves to receive the vertical dividers. Interestingly, this piece of plywood is actually a full 3/4" thick so I cut the dados with a straight bit. 








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I use two Emmerson straightedge clamps to guide the router. One of the guides has a hardwood strip that shows where the dado will be. 








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Everything was fine until I saw this. Even with a sharp bit and two shallow passes, the bit was hot enough to light an ember. Air moving from the router fanned the flame, which smoldered for quite some time. My main concern was that an ember had been sucked into the shop vac, so I emptied it into a garbage can and took the can outside. 








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Test fitting a scrap reveals a good friction fit. 








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Now the top web frame needed to be notched. I did this at the bandsaw with a roller support. 









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I set up a stop block so all the notches would be the same size. I cut off this small corner piece with a dovetail saw. If the cut is a little too deep, it will be hidden by the dado. 








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The carcase is dry assembled to check the fit.









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A piece of scrap holds the web frame and mid shelf at the correct spacing until the central splat is installed. 








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The central splat adds some detail, and visually breaks up the long narrow space. 








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For edge banding the vertical dividers, I chose tongue and groove.








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This will keep the edgebanding from sliding around during glueup. 








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The bottom shelf will be biscuited to the front rail. I assemble my cases this way because I don't want to see the bottom shelf from the exterior of the case. 








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The back of the case is rabbeted to receive the 1/2" back panel. 









Next up will be the central splat, drawer dividers, and carcase glueup.


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## sb194 (Feb 19, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Dados and Carcase Assembly*
> 
> This is my arts and crafts style entertainment center, which is reminiscent of a Stickley sideboard.
> 
> ...


Looking good. Can't wait to see it finished.


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Dados and Carcase Assembly*
> 
> This is my arts and crafts style entertainment center, which is reminiscent of a Stickley sideboard.
> 
> ...


Wonderful work and thank you for the tutorial


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*Central splat, Drawers, and Doors*

This is where I am at currently on the entertainment center.








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There is an interesting central splat detail, inspired by Kevin Rodel's arts and crafts dining chair. 








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It is a series of slats glued together with the thin parts let into grooves. I found it was best to cut the tenons before creating the stopped grooves. With my first trial I cut the grooves first, and experienced some chipout cutting the tenons. 








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The splat has some nice shadow lines, and forms three small squares at the top.








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The splat is mortised into the case. This part functions to support the upper web frame. 








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Biscuits join the front rail with the bottom shelf. 








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I decided to glueup the carcase in two phases. I left the top web frame off so I would have clearance to direct some good clamping pressure to the vertical dividers. 








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Then I added the top web frame, which rests in a rabbet. 








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The top web frame is reinforced with a few well-placed pocket screws. 








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Next I measured directly from the carcase to build the drawer divider web frames. These are made from primary wood, which is QSRO. They are built with biscuits, and form an incredibly strong assembly. 








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The web frames slide into the back of the cabinet…. 








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...and are glued in place.








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Now it was time to cut some dovetails, and make the three drawers. I use a 14 degree dovetail bit and a Porter Cable 4210 jig. 








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The drawer bottoms are aromatic cedar plywood. Despite being a veneer product, they sure smell nice. 








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I masked the drawer bottoms so I could spray the drawers with a coat of shellac. 








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Drawers finished with shellac, and buffed out. Clear shellac adds almost no color to the poplar drawer sides. 








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Now I turn my attention to milling parts for the doors. I had made up the solid panels previously, so this step proceeded quickly. 








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The 1/2" thick panels are rabbeted on the back to fit in the groove. 








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I wiped a light coat of stain on the panels and clamped them up, and set the doors aside to dry (Note to self: thin stain 1:1 with mineral spirits to prevent panel from staining too dark). 








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The top is glued up, but still needs to be trimmed to final size. 









Next up will be trimming the top, building the "wedge and strap" backsplash, and some final sanding.


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## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Central splat, Drawers, and Doors*
> 
> This is where I am at currently on the entertainment center.
> 
> ...


You do some nice work. Ironically I am building a pair of A&C tv stands right now. Real similar to my last sideboard. Hey. we gotta come up with something, they didn't have flat-screen tv stands in Stickleys day;-)


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Central splat, Drawers, and Doors*
> 
> This is where I am at currently on the entertainment center.
> 
> ...


Thanks. I would love to see some of your project pics.


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## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Central splat, Drawers, and Doors*
> 
> This is where I am at currently on the entertainment center.
> 
> ...


Alright, I'll snap a few in the next day or two. I admire you taking the time to blog it, because I know it helps other Ljs. 
This current commission of mine is just a few more like the tv stand in my home, so I haven't documented it much. Here's what they should look like when I'm done:


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Central splat, Drawers, and Doors*
> 
> This is where I am at currently on the entertainment center.
> 
> ...


Looks like a great entertainment unit. I like it, and can really see the similarities in the design.


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## jeffbranch (Feb 20, 2011)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Central splat, Drawers, and Doors*
> 
> This is where I am at currently on the entertainment center.
> 
> ...


Nice work!


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*Wedge and Strap Backsplash, Trimming Top, and Staining*

So this is where we left off with things last time…








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The entertainment center features a wedge and strap backsplash to match my 6 drawer dressers http://lumberjocks.com/projects/79208 








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Basically it is a shallow dado that receives a walnut inlay. I cut tapers on the backsplash first, then glued the wedges back on. I carpet-taped a strip of plywood to the backsplash to give me a straight reference edge to cut the dados (note to self: rip plywood strip before installing dado blade!). 








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Here, the top is trimmed to size.








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The inlay is 1/4" thick walnut, mitered to wrap around the backsplash. 








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Here the inlay is installed.









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While the glue dries on the inlay, I turn my attention to the corbels. The corbels are let into grooves in the legs, and glued in place. I always wait until the top is in place before installing corbels. That way I can confirm that the fit is good before going ahead with the glueup. 








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I don't like admitting this, but there are faux tenons on the rear legs. The front through tenons are real, however since the back panel is plywood, I had to make the rear tenons false. 








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Chamfering tenons with an oscillating belt sander. The tilting table on this tool makes it an ideal choice for this task. 








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Cutting biscuit slots to attach the backsplash.








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Backsplash glueup.








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With a guide bushing and spiral bit mounted in my router, I cut an opening for cords to pass through the back panel. 








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Staining doors and drawers.








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The top is stained separately. 








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The frame is assembled without the back panel, which gives better access to spray the stain.








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I asked my wife which she liked better - spraying stain, or wiping it on by hand. She said "spraying, because I don't have to do it." Cute. Very cute. 









Next up is lacquer, wax and hardware.


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## Kyle82 (Mar 1, 2011)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Wedge and Strap Backsplash, Trimming Top, and Staining*
> 
> So this is where we left off with things last time…
> 
> ...


Outstanding, Willie. This is awesome.


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## sb194 (Feb 19, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Wedge and Strap Backsplash, Trimming Top, and Staining*
> 
> So this is where we left off with things last time…
> 
> ...


Looking great as usual. Can't wait to see it finished.

Sean


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## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Wedge and Strap Backsplash, Trimming Top, and Staining*
> 
> So this is where we left off with things last time…
> 
> ...


Good stuff man. Don't want to hijack you blog, but I promised I would show you some pics of my project…so
here's a couple I snapped. Clients doubled the order. Guess they want one for upstairs and down. Panels on back and inner shelves will be qswo plywood to stay in budget. Anyway:


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Wedge and Strap Backsplash, Trimming Top, and Staining*
> 
> So this is where we left off with things last time…
> 
> ...


I can see why your clients doubled the order, that looks like a great project. Nice color too. 
Keep up the good work.


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## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Wedge and Strap Backsplash, Trimming Top, and Staining*
> 
> So this is where we left off with things last time…
> 
> ...


Thanks, but I don't think my work is at the level yours is yet. I've really been mixing in more hand tools, and I've enjoyed that.
I'm using watco dark walnut danish oil for stain. I've gotten in the habit of staining large parts prior to assembly. Then I clearcoat it all when its done. I think I will end up furnishing these clients/friends house before its all said and done.


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## cab2u (Jan 30, 2017)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Wedge and Strap Backsplash, Trimming Top, and Staining*
> 
> So this is where we left off with things last time…
> 
> ...


A great looking piece of furniture. Do you have any architectural drawings/specs for this piece? I'd like to try and build one. Good work!


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Wedge and Strap Backsplash, Trimming Top, and Staining*
> 
> So this is where we left off with things last time…
> 
> ...


This was posted as a free download to Sketchup, but is no longer supported. This is about the best I can do for now. If you have other specific questions, I may be able to help.









The doors are 23-1/2×15-1/2
The drawer bank is 24" wide with drawer heights being 6,7, and 9" 
The opening for components is 4-3/4" high
The backsplash is 4" high at the peak, and 67-1/2" long

Thanks for your interest.


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## cab2u (Jan 30, 2017)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Wedge and Strap Backsplash, Trimming Top, and Staining*
> 
> So this is where we left off with things last time…
> 
> ...


That's very helpful. 2 additional detail questions:
-is there any top overhang along the back, or does the top sit flush with the corner posts on back side?
-what is the approx space (height to floor) of the installed arched pieces along bottom front and sides (i.e., height in the middle and height at the corner posts for front and sides, along bottom)-that looks like a 1×6, so I'm guessing there is a 1" clearance to floor at the corner posts and a 3" clearance to floor at the mid-point? are those specs the same on all three faces (front and sides)?

Thanks for your help!


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## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Wedge and Strap Backsplash, Trimming Top, and Staining*
> 
> So this is where we left off with things last time…
> 
> ...


This will be a fine piece when you have finished it.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Wedge and Strap Backsplash, Trimming Top, and Staining*
> 
> So this is where we left off with things last time…
> 
> ...


Cab2u,

The top extends 1/2" off the back. My reasoning is there is usually 3/4" baseboard trim in the room, so that leaves the top 1/4" from the wall once installed.

The bottom rails are 1×4's, positioned 1-1/2" from the bottom of the legs. The front bottom rail arches from 4" wide at most, to 2-1/2" wide in the center. The curves for the side bottom rails have the same deflection.

Cheers!


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

*Lacquer, Wax, and Hardware*

After mounting the slides, I used carpet tape to temporarily attach the drawer fronts. Slides are Centerline 757's, and mounting is the same as my dresser project here… http://lumberjocks.com/pintodeluxe/blog/34281








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Drawer fronts installed with 4 screws each.








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Since the drawers are graduated from 6" to 9", I made a full sized pattern for the largest drawer. Then I marked the size of the other drawers, and used those lines to lay out all drawer pull holes on one template. A cleat on two sides of the template registers it in position. I use the "No Math" drawer pull layout method described here…
http://lumberjocks.com/pintodeluxe/blog/34346 








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Holes drilled with no drama. 








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Hammered pulls installed.








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Figure 8 tabletop fasteners installed. I found some thick, solid metal versions at my local woodworking store. The chain stores sell the hollow version, which flex too much. 








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Aromatic cedar drawer bottoms.








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14 degree dovetail drawers. Drawer fronts pre-stained to highlight the D.T. joints. Drawer boxes finished with shellac, and drawer bottoms left unfinished. For more on this type of drawer construction see my dresser post here… http://lumberjocks.com/pintodeluxe/blog/34094








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That's about it on this cabinet. Time to move it inside, and install the top and back panel. 
Cheers!

Addendum: here is a link to the completed project… http://lumberjocks.com/projects/82205


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## HillbillyShooter (Feb 15, 2012)

pintodeluxe said:


> *Lacquer, Wax, and Hardware*
> 
> After mounting the slides, I used carpet tape to temporarily attach the drawer fronts. Slides are Centerline 757's, and mounting is the same as my dresser project here… http://lumberjocks.com/pintodeluxe/blog/34281
> 
> ...


Very nice-great looking entertainment center.


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