# Table saw receptacle location...



## gezz (Aug 2, 2007)

I'm currently improving my shop from a two car detached garage that is basically open framing to a more permanent structure. I'm almost finished the wiring and insulation. My next step is to cover up the ceiling and walls. My question however is in reference to the location for my *table saw outlet.* I have a wall mounted receptacle that I'm rethinking. The table saw will be set up in the center of the garage and I was trying to figure a way to not have a cord running across the floor to the wall. I know some shops have outlets mounted in the ceiling and run the cord up to it from the saw or other machines that may be in the middle of the floor. Does this idea sound alright or would the cord going up to the ceiling outlet be in the way when using the table saw.


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## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

It is a good idea as long as you pay attention to a couple of things.

1. Use a twist lock plug to keep it from falling out.

2. Drop down in a place out of the way from where you will be moving wood around.


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## wooddon (Jul 11, 2007)

I have hanging from my ceiling 2 back to back 4 socket boxes that I use to plug in 8 tools. Works good.


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## gezz (Aug 2, 2007)

Thanks to Gary and Don. I do have a twist lock plug. My main concern would be that the cord is not interfering with my work on the saw. So in your opinion that is not a problem…


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## Nicky (Mar 13, 2007)

For many years my TS was plugged into a ceiling outlet, located about 6ft to the right side of the saw. No problems operating the saw.

When I upgraded the saw, it required a 220V outlet, that was located 7 feet to the left, on a wall. My interim solution was to use a rubber cord cover that I bought at an electrical supply. The cover is approximately 3in wide and stands about 5/8" proud of the floor at its crown. It's mounted on a concrete floor with carpet tape. Did this about 6 years ago, never had a problem, never tripped, still holding strong. I'm thinking this is permanent for me, you may want to look at a cord cover as an option.


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## DaveHerron (Jan 21, 2008)

When I built my shop I put all outlets 4' off the floor in the wall because I was not sure where the permanent tool locations would be. Once I permanently set the tool locations I plan to relocate the plug to a ceiling location where appropriate using conduit. I have 220-20 amp / 220-30amp / 110-20amp plugs every 4 feet on 3 walls of my shop.


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## Dadoo (Jun 23, 2007)

My main power supply is from a retractable ceiling cord…(cut their breaker plug outlet off and replace it with anything but…theirs is junk). I do use it always for my tablesaw, and haven't had any problems yet. So you should be OK. Nice thing is that when not needed, I can retract the cord back into it's winder.

Todd Clippinger is currently rewiring his shop and has come up with a great idea. Install two duplex outlets in each 4×4 box. Each outlet though is powered off a different leg from your breaker box. This gives you two circuits to load up but what's really cool is that it also provides 240vac to that box for future use! He ran two lengths of 12/2, but could've gotten away with one length of 12/3. The white and ground are both going back to the common anyhow.


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## gezz (Aug 2, 2007)

Lots of good advice. Nicky the cord cover was something I never thought of but I have seen them in shops. 
Dave…there are never enough outlets. I think I allowed for every possibility however…Dadoo I like the 220v ideal with the double duplex outlets…

Thanks again to all…


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## Dadoo (Jun 23, 2007)

Yeah, you could easily wire up a 220vac outlet into a 2×4 box and have two pigtails come out of it…each tail will plug into opposite outlets. This would give you a 220vac recepticle that you could locate anywhere in the shop.


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## motthunter (Dec 31, 2007)

just make sure that no matter where you mount it, it is convenient to keep you from being too lazy to unplug in when you are changing blades,


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## gezz (Aug 2, 2007)

Unplugging the saw when changing blades…I did forget about that. I guess I need to make the plug on a cord drop so it's within reach…


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## Woodchuck1957 (Feb 4, 2008)

220 power has to be on a 220 breaker, two breakers factory tied together. You can run a 220 circuit to a single double box and then split it into two 110 circuits or outlets I believe. Just to clear it up for some folks that you can't just run 2 single 110 breakers to a box and expect to be able to use it as 220 someday. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. A dedicated circuit for the table saw is definately the way to go, 110 or 220. The shorter the extension cord the better also. I run my Contractors table saw on a 15 amp, 220 wall outlet. I use a 12/3, 10' extension cord.


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## jcees (Dec 31, 2007)

Yepper, you always want to be able to unplug. I had my garage shop wiring upgraded with extra outlets of 110 and 220 and lighting via sub panel. Even so, because I annex the driveway for my machines, I use a 30' extension made for 220v out of 12-3 SEO cord. The outlet box is mounted to a hunk of 2×8 so I can step on it to pull that rather stiff plug out when changing a blade. By all means possible do have your electrical upgrades done by a pro. You won't be sorry. Good luck.

always,
J.C.


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## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

You could also use a power shutoff instead of unplugging it.
You can get one cheap at Home depot (abt $16). They are used to shut off power to outside
AC units. Once the plug is pulled out it is totally safe.


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## gusthehonky (Feb 26, 2008)

I goofed once, cord could get tugged by sheets of ply, but quick fix. Have you thought of a disconnect, either breaker or pullout, mounted to saw itself and all wires in conduit direct wired to panel, home run like. Or ever think, if applicable to shop layout, running cords thru dust collection inlet tubes, and using weather proof connectors for ins and outs?


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## Tangle (Jul 21, 2007)

At the present my saw is powered by the extension cord we had made to run the welder. We will soon(this summer) be cutting a groove in the concrete floor and installing a 220 floor outlet at the back of the saw. I seldom trip over it but it is a pain to sweep around.


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## North40 (Oct 17, 2007)

I have a ceiling drop that comes down to the right of my saw's extension wing toward the back of the saw. I'm planning to move it to the right of the extension wing near the front of the saw - it's a pain to go around and unplug it where it is. I never cut material that is hanging off the right of the saw, so the cord doesn't interfere.


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## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

When I was designing my shop, I thought long and hard about ceiling drops, and decided that it would work well for me just place the drop back and to the right of the saw so it is not in the way when you run wide items through. After I decided (cragislist very good deal) to get a saw with 52 inch rails I was concerned about how far away the outlet would be from the saw at that point. Took the issue to my GC and he recommend that I put outlets into the floor, which I did and could not be happier. I know as a retrofit you really don't have the option. I would look at Nickys, Thos. Angle, and Peter O's as very good solutions that would work well in your application.


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## Al_Killian (Feb 15, 2008)

I personaly like haveing the plugs in the floor. This leaves it out of the way and easy to access for unplugging.


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## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

I have both my outlet and dust collection in the floor. Under the concrete actually. It does make for unfettered access.


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