# wipe on spray on poly - whats the diff???



## okwoodshop (Sep 15, 2009)

can you use spray on poly as a wipe on finish and if not why? I am finishing a rocker and have some spar urethane but I want to wipe on the finish because of where I am having to apply it. Just wondering if anyone has ever used it as a wipe on??? It is minwax brand. thanks


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

The difference is that wipe on Polly normally is thinned poly with less dryers. I don't use minwax products but you should be able to spray it. I would try it on a test piece of wood first. If not add a little of the proper thinner and try again.


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

You should be able to use it as a wipe on product. I assume that you have a spray can and are going to be spraying it into a container or onto a wiping cloth. You are going to get a lot of splattering and the spray consists largely (60%) of pretty volatile chemicals such as naphtha and acetone. These chemicals will evaporate pretty quickly. I generally prefer my wiping poly to be forumulated in mineral spirits since it evaporates much slower but if you are quick you can do it.


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## okwoodshop (Sep 15, 2009)

OK question no. 2 what do I thin it with? I have a quart of gloss but can I thin to a satin?


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Duanne on the can it should say what to thin with and or what clean up is in most cases there the same.
Sometimes it says not to thin but you still can thin a some


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## okwoodshop (Sep 15, 2009)

thanks, Jim I'll try to thin with mineral spirits and do some tests.


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## jimc (Mar 6, 2008)

Duanne, you cannot thin gloss to a satin luster. Satin and Semi-Gloss both have silicates added to reduce the reflective of light off the surface of the finished object. Actually, the silicates redirect the reflection, thus dulling the "observed" surface sheen. The silicates are the 'silt' that settles to the bottom of the can and requires you to stir satin and semi-gloss finishes before using.

Jim


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## daveintexas (Oct 15, 2007)

Duane-
Good advice from Jim and Jim….......

If you are using gloss, go ahead and apply 2,3 or however many coats you plan to use.
Then take some 00000 steel wool and paste wax and rub down the chair. That will take some of the gloss off of it. 
And as always- try the complete finishing scheadule on test pieces.


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## okwoodshop (Sep 15, 2009)

thanks guys, dave I was fixin to email you about this . I stained with the dark walnut and left the joint areas darker. It looks great, everybody is wanting one now. I was tryin to be cheap and use some poly that I already had but the chair looks so good I am going to get some wipe on satin and do about 5 or 6 coats. then wax on wax off. I'm trying not to rush it but it's hard to keep everybody out of the chair. I know for sure I have a lot to learn about finishing


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Hey Duane
If your going to buy wipe on poly if you get water base of course you would not use steel wool to dull the finish because of rust spots but you could use 320 - 400 grit to do the same job.


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## okwoodshop (Sep 15, 2009)

Thanks Jim, I have tried water base poly and don't really care for it. It raises the grain doesn't seem as tough of a finish. just me but I like the Minwax oil based wipe on poly for satin finish and helmsman spar urethane for a gloss finish. It is like three coats of the other brand but you have to be careful when spraying or it will run and drip because it is so heavy I guess?? I read about working with wood all the time but I better start learning about finishing or I'm just doing a half way job.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Duanne if you deside to use water base in the furture first you wet the wood let dry lightly hit with 150 then use water base (I use polycrils) let dry hit with 220 and second coat a hard finsh that holds up well. every one uses what works for them.


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

Duane, I have to agree with you on the oil base poly. Water base is ok but, for me, the finish is not as "warm" as oil base. This is due to the amber color that oil base has versus the "blue" that water base imparts. Water based products have come a long way but they still have a way to go in my opinion.

Spraying is a technique that takes some practice- very similar to hand cutting dovetails.  Runs and drips happen when too much material is applied which is easy to do. All it takes is a moment of hesitation or too much overlap when spraying to produce a run. That is why I really prefer to use wipe on finishes. They are a little slower to apply but the runs and sags are better controlled. Besides I am not being paid by the hour anyway so I can afford the extra time.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

It's one of those subjects that always get a variety of opinions its called Finishing ,ether people hate it ,have one technique that works for them, or they feel there experts. I kind of fall in the middle I have a few techniques that works for me. I say if you hate finishing it keep trying until you find at least one way that works for you. Then you can try other approaches to add to your finishing repertoire. Not saying any of the above suggestions are wrong or mine right.


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## okwoodshop (Sep 15, 2009)

well, I have put on three coats of Minwax satin wipe on poly over the dark walnut stain that daveintexas suggested. I have to say it is looking great. the satin doesn't give the brassy glow that the gloss does and it is really warm and inviting. at least three more coats as I can tell this is going to be the most popular chair at my house for a while. haven't figured out how to put pics on here yet so i will have to do another project page when its all done. wish you guys(an gals) could take a rock in it. dp


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