# This baby really cuts



## rozzi

Thanks for the information. I tried to re-saw a piece of maple the other night for the first time and had a terrible experience. It was actually the first time I ever tried to re-saw anything on my band saw. Blade wondered badly. It was a terrible cut. I thought I should at least start with a decent blade before I try it again. My only blade came with the saw and it is pretty dull at this point. I have a Steel City 14 inch band saw without a riser. Any other thoughts on a good blade to re-saw with or other tips would be appreciated.


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## rob2

I followed the Timberwolf tensioning instructions pretty carefully. It keeps the tension down and reducers the power required to make the cuts. With a 14" saw this is really important. Be very careful about how the blade guides are adjusted. Timberwolf has resaw baldes in 1/2 wide. You must have space for the sawdust to be caried out so you really need a resaw balde. The Tech people at Timberwolf (Suffolk Machine) were really helpful.


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## sbryan55

Thanks for the review, Rob. Last week I reduced an 18" cherry log to 2" slabs with a 3/4" version of this blade and, like you, had no problems whatsoever cutting through the wood. It easily cut through the wood and left the slabs pretty smooth.


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## BarryW

Here's a link to re-saw blade sharpening that is informative…really worked for me.
http://www.woodturningvideosplus.com/resharpen-bandsaw-blades.html


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## toddc

I have been using the Timberwolf blades on my bandsaw. I square the wood stock, draw a line where I want to cut and freehand the cut with great results.

My results are as good with the 3/4" as the 1" blades. The 3/4" blades are much easier to install on the bandsaw though so I doubt that I will buy the 1" blades anymore.

This is all curly maple that I cut freehand with the TimberWolf blade and then cleaned up in the sanding machine. (No matter what blade you use it will leave saw marks.)


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## Tomas

Rob and others - I also think your results may be dicated by the machine you use - you did not mention that in your post - can you tell us what brand/size machine you have? I am just curious because I am still deliberating on what brand/size to get that will also handle resawing. Thanks - Tomas


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## reggiek

Remember that the blade is the biggest part of the cut! Tensioning, sharpness, tooth type and profile, using the proper guides and most of all using the proper feed rate will get you the cut that you want. I have converted my two bandsaws (I have two at the moment) to carter solid bearing guides….I keep a scrolling guide for the 14" saw…to do detail scroll work. My 17" saw has a 1" blade 3tpi Hook 1" and I have not had any issues with resawing…it cuts almost perfectly…....the 14" takes a bit more of a struggle…as the lower horsepower requires that I pay more attention to feed rate. I have a woodslicer blade on my 14" but will be converting that to a more general purpose now that I resaw on the 17". Resawing can be done with the 14" saws quite well…but you must be patient and practice the proper feed rate…


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## toddc

I have the Grizzly 17" G0513.


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## rob2

I have the same saw, the Grizzly 17" G0513. 2hp, comes with a resaw fence. Once you adjust the tracking it just cuts straight. The one inch blade is a bit of a pain to install but works great.


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## dbhost

I have the Timberwolf 1/2" 3 TPI resawing blades and I can tell you that yes Virginia, these blades to work as advertised IF you follow Suffolk's use instructions…

With proper tension, lube, and guide adjustment, I can cut walnut at a good steady pace, maybe not as fast as I can feed it, but as fast as I am comfortable feeding it, on a Harbor Freight 14" band saw… These blades really do make a cheap saw act like a high end machine, well close enough anyway…


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