# RIDGID's REPEATACUT: WHAT DOES IT DO?



## TheNigerian (Apr 3, 2009)

I took my RIDGID 13" thickness planer home yesterday and am just looking forward to the weekend.

However, I just do not understand the explanations in the owner's manual about the repeatacut feature. What does it do - in spite of the name?

Does it take cuts as thick as the setting ad infinitum or does it take the number of cuts necessary to reach the setting?

Are there any videos about this feature I can take a look at out there please?

I need to sweat this very impressive looking asset.


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## doyoulikegumwood (Jun 21, 2007)

i have this same planer all the repeat a cut feature dose is lets say you have a 1" board that you want to make 3/4 of an inch heres what you do set the depth to 1 Inch or better with the handle then set the repeat a cut to 3/4" now feed your board thru, then turn the handle down say half a turn (1/16th") and do this over and over but you wont be able to turn the handle any more when you hit 3/4". the repeat a cut is nothing more then a set stop.

you dont need to sweat this feature it is nice to have but not a biggie i would say tho that this is a very good planer and worth every dime.


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## TheNigerian (Apr 3, 2009)

I thank you bud!

I wish the owner's manual explained it this well and simply.


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## spaids (Apr 15, 2008)

I have this planer and find that the cut depth stops are great. You can get half way through a project and realize you screwed up (this is guaranteed to happen to me) and you can mill some more stock and not worry about getting the thickness just right because you used the stops.


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## BlairH (Jan 19, 2009)

I don't mean to stray from the original question but since there are some Ridgid Planer owners here I though I'd take advantage.

I just recently bought the same planer and am have troubles with the infeed outfeed tables. Both are almost 3/16" lower than the planer bed. As you can imagine, this creates a lot of snipe not only on the back (which I expected) but also on the front of my workpiece. I tried to use the adjustment screws but they only change the angle of the table not the height.

Again, I'm really sorry for the off topic question. Thanks a lot!


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## ellen35 (Jan 1, 2009)

Thanks for raising this question. When I first got my Ridgid Planer, it worked beautifully. Now I am getting snipe. I find the tables difficult to set and I am still not sure where to set them. Some say slight tilt up in front…others no. I'd love to hear what other LJs with this machine recommend.
Ellen


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## BlairH (Jan 19, 2009)

I'm glad to hear someone else is having the same issue. I figure, when I have the time, I'll try to disassemble the current tables and make my own. I don't see how the adjustment screws are supposed to help, with them being directly below a fixed hinge. Doesn't make sense to me.


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## Al_PG (Jan 29, 2009)

I did a review of my rigid planer, my only complaint was snipe, a few people recommended tilting the bed up a little this took some of it away but not all. I like the depth stops but I think your right the manual doesn't say much about them (it also say to have the tables flat). I still think was good value for the money spent.


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## doyoulikegumwood (Jun 21, 2007)

ellen and blair I'm sorry i forgot about this problem my fix was i took the infeed and out feed off and built my own i wish i had a cammara to show you what i did but i basicaly turn the machine into a stationary machine i too couldn't fix the problem


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## CedarFreakCarl (Apr 21, 2007)

I've got the older two knife Ridgid planer. To make the infeed and outfeed tables level I take an edge jointed perfectly straight board and lay it jointed edge down across the planer bed under the cutterhead. Turn the crank until the board is secured by the rollers, then adjust the little infeed and outfeed tables until they are level with the bottom of the board. Also I've got some el-cheapo roller stands that I use for additional outfeed support. I place the first one about 6 or 8" out from the edge of the outfeed table and adjust it up to the bottom of the jointed board. I then put a couple more about 18" apart on out from the first one, all adjusted up to the bottom of the jointed edge board. The Idea is to make the outfeed rolllers or you can make an outfeed table, but they need to be precisely on the same plane as the bed of the planer. It also needs to extend far enough to support your board on the outfeed side for at least 2/3's of the board length so there's no "tipping up" of the end of the planed board when it exits the planer. Actually to do this right, the infeed side needs the same attention to detail and board support. Once the is done and we're perfectly parallel to the planer bed the next important thing is to have one side of the board to be planed perfectly flat on one side. If it's twisted slightly, no amount of preparation will keep it from kicking up or down when it enters and exits the cutterhead. If you don't have a jointer, you can make an MDF planer sled and put your board to be jointed on it and use small wedges under the board to keep it from moving while planing a flat side. Once we're flat on one side, just remove it from the sled, flip it over and plane the other side. If you're proficient with hand planes and winding sticks, you can plane one side flat by hand and accomplish the same end. I'm not so good with hand tools. The last thing is to make sure the cutterhead is locked down. If you go to these pains, you can all but eliminate snipe. (at least I have) If all else fails, just make your planed board 6 or 8 inches longer than the finished length and cut off the sniped ends.


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## BlairH (Jan 19, 2009)

Hey Pat, that's a great idea running a table all the way through the planner and bypassing the planner bed completely. I would've never thought of doing that. It makes total sense. Why try to level three tables when you can just make one perfectly flat one. Thanks a lot for directing me to your pics. That's the next project I'll be working on.


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## phil619 (Dec 13, 2008)

I have the ridgid r4330 planer and also was experienceing snipe after I set up per the owners manual instructions. So I took my 4' straight edge and spaned it across both infeed and outfeed tables. I then adjusted both tables so that the straight edge sat flat on the planer bed and the table ends were co-planer. This resulted in the both tables being slightly tilted upward,( about 3/16 to zero). Which I believe reduces the amount of snipe, provide the work piece is long enough to span from the outfeed roller to the end of the outfeed table. I agree adjusting the tables are a pain and takes alot of trial an error, but after several test runs I observed virtually no snipe. Be sure to double check everything after you lock down the adjusting bolts.
Hope this helps.


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## ellen35 (Jan 1, 2009)

I just did a search on the Ridgid forum. So…how can the manual be wrong (that was a joke!). Several people on that forum talked about the "penny" method. Put a penny on each end of the planer bed and put the level on the pennies thus raising it the height of the penny. Then raise the infeed and outfeed tables to meet the level. Of course, others say the infeed and outfeed tables must be absolutely even with the planer bed. I am sooooo confused! My guess is that it is trial and error…and what works for one may not necessarily work for another. I usually plane short (approx 20") boards for cutting boards. I do like the "replacement" that MVWOODWORKS designed. I'd be interested in how well that works, especially for short boards.
Ellen


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## BlairH (Jan 19, 2009)

I just have to say that I feel bad for re-directing this forum, I know wasn't the original intention. But… I would like to thank everyone for jumping in and answering my question so quickly. It really helps.


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## ellen35 (Jan 1, 2009)

Blair,
Consider starting another forum on the Ridgid 4330!
I'll play!
Ellen


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## TheNigerian (Apr 3, 2009)

Wow!

It really is good to be here.

I did use my RIDGIG over the weekend and consider it a great buy.

Then I log on today to ask questions about snipe and the answers are posted already!

Thank God for Lumberjocks!

And thank you all for taking time to contribute.


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## Brad_Nailor (Jul 26, 2007)

I have this planer ( the older two blade model) and I think it works really well for a two blade single speed lunch box planer. A couple of observations:
The in-feed/out-feed tables on mine are adjusted so they are *slightly* higher than the planer bed. This seems to have eliminated any snipe in my planer. I was just flattening a cutting board last nite and not one bit of snipe!
Make sure you lock down the cutter head or you will get snipe regardless of how the tables are adjusted..
Take light passes…I find that the less material I take off per pass the better the results..less tear out and glass smooth results..
When planing figured/curly materials, or glue ups with different grains and wood species, angle your material slightly as you feed it into the planer..seems to help reduce tear out…you can also try and slightly dampen the surface as well…these last two tips work with any planer!


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## Brad_Nailor (Jul 26, 2007)

Oh, and I forgot to say in the last post..forget the repeat a cut…buy a good set of calipers and learn how to use them…one of the most valuable tools in my little garage shop!


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## rtb (Mar 26, 2008)

Sorry Brad, can't quite agree. I have a good set and can't improve on the repeat a cut. I have the 2 blade version and set the in/out feed tables with a 48 in rule with a level in it. and torpedo level on each table. Of course it doesnt hurt to check periodically. I find snipe if doing something longer that 4 ft without outfeed support.


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## TheNigerian (Apr 3, 2009)

Brad, although my experience is limited to the several hours' work over the last weekend, I completely agree with RTB; the repeatacut feature is unbeatable.

My customer came over and was blown away by the glass smooth results and the uniformity of all the parts; I had set the repeatacut level to 1.25" and planed in quarter-turns of the handle.

My measurements confirmed what I saw.

I think that one should be able to just set a limit switch and go on - with confidence - to doing actual work. The repeatacut allows this.


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## ellen35 (Jan 1, 2009)

So today I really got serious about snipe. I made sure my infeed and outfeed tables were tilted slightly higher at the ends and I fed my short stock (about 18 inches long…some shorter) in at an angle. It worked!!! Little or no snipe at either end. What little snipe there was was easily sanded out! I was using hardwoods…birds eye maple, hard maple, walnut, rosewood and some purpleheart. I really am pleased with the results. I tried not feeding the wood in at an angle and that was when I got the most snipe. I think it is a combination of both "techniques". Thanks to everyone who commented on this issue both here and in other topics.


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## BlairH (Jan 19, 2009)

Glad to hear it Ellen!


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