# How to get rid of wobble



## BB1 (Jan 29, 2016)

Checking on this question for my husband who is a new woodturner. He is using the barracuda 2 jaw chuck to try to hollow out a vase without using the tailstock. When turning on the lathe the vase has too much wobble/ vibration to work the piece. Not sure what is going wrong. He tried to look at youtube but couldn't find an answer. The vase is about 17 inches tall. Any thoughts are welcome!


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Google steady rest


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## JollyGreen67 (Nov 1, 2010)

One reason it will wobble is the tenon is to deep into the jaws and is bottoming out, allowing the turning to not be flush with the outer "circle" portion of the jaws. Plus what MrUnix says.


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## davegutz (Oct 16, 2012)

In this case, I'd use a steadyrest that goes all the way around, in case it gets loose, as it's likely to do given the long length compared to its diameter.


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## LeeMills (Nov 2, 2014)

I agree with the others that a steady rest is mandatory for those chuck jaws and the depth of the turning.
Along with….
Tenon is too long and bottoms out…
There is no face for the top of the jaws to seat against….
Tenon is slightly oversized (note in the 2nd pic only the corners of the jaws are making contact).
It is difficult to tell from the pics if the chuck jaws have an interior dovetail or if a dovetail was formed on the tenon.

Stuart Batty has three excellent videos on forming tenon/spigots and recesses.
Jaws and Chucks; Recess Tenons and Preparing Recesses in Bowl Blanks; and Tenons Part 2
https://vimeo.com/woodturning/videos/sort:alphabetical/format:thumbnail


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## soob (Feb 3, 2015)

That piece is really long to be chucking up that way in the first place. Probably better to take it off the lathe and drill it out. Finish the lip with it still supported by the tailstock first.


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## Bittersweet (Apr 14, 2016)

I agree with what the others are stating. You don't have the proper accessories to be doing this successfully. If there's wobble it means your item isn't centred or true. Adding things into a chuck can be tricky especially if the post is curved and does not sit flush. What I always do before I start turning is make sure it matches up to the tailstock even if you aren't using it.

NOTE: I'm new to turning also and have only turned for one year and even that was limited due to the lathe being outside in the garage. It's cold out there. lol


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## BB1 (Jan 29, 2016)

Thank you for all the responses! Looks like a steady rest needs to go on the purchase list plus learning some adfitional technique for larger pieces.


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## Wildwood (Jul 22, 2012)

Even with a steady rest very difficult to hollow out the center with spindle or bowl turning tools. No way to control the tool that far over tool rest. Going more than 4" to 6" over the tool rest takes light cuts, luck, & some skill. That's why most folks resort to hollowing tools. After turning few bowls like one shown set me off off on getting my hollowing tools.

A drill chuck mounted in tailstock & appropriate size bit(s) could work part of the way. Finding a wide enough to take you to the bottom of the vase could be very expensive.

Many people have made their own steady rest in this style for drilling & hollowing.

http://www.hdv.net/tips/Making%20a%20Steady%20Rest.htm

Trying to hollow out 16" takes some serious hollowing tools!

http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=woodturning+hollowing+tools&qs=n&form=QBVLPG&pq=woodturning+hollowing+tools&sc=8-19&sp=-1&sk


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