# Spraying Target EM6000 with Fuji 4-stage



## ed13 (Nov 22, 2016)

I'm trying to spray Target EM6000 with a Fuji 4-stage HVLP and am hoping someone with the same setup that has done it before can tell me how they set up to do this. I'm having trouble with the surface looking like it has stuff in it when wet and just sprayed. I'm guessing I'm seeing bubbles. If I go for thinner coats, things look dry and grainy. As I try to get wetter it looks better but then the bubbles (if that's what they are) appear before the dry looking appearance goes away.

It's hot and humid here. I've got 5% retarder added to the finish. I've tried 10%. The rough plan is to build with gloss and then do a final coat of satin for sheen. On a test piece, the satin seemed to give more problems than the gloss.

I'd really like this product to work for me! If someone says they've gotten it to work with such and such aircap and with the air turned back X%, I'll start from there and try again. I'm guessing I need to bring the air volume back but each experiment doesn't quite get me there. I've tried both 1.0 mm and 1.3 mm.


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## ClammyBallz (Apr 16, 2015)

I spray a lot of EM8000 and I use a 1.5 needle. 1.3 will work, but I have better luck getting a smoother finish with a 1.5. I also turn the air valve on the hose down to 80-90%.

Humidity can be a big factor, try spraying in the morning.

I've never used the retarder, but I do use the crosslinker. One thing I have found is to stir it completely using a paint mixer on a drill instead of a wooden stick. Let it set for several hours until the bubbles escape and don't mix again before you pour it into the cup. If you pour it in the cup right after mix and start to spray right away, you will have a lot of bubbles in the finish.


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## ed13 (Nov 22, 2016)

Thanks- I'll give that a try as a starting point next time. Do you find that 8000 and 6000 spray similarly? When you say you turn down the air to 80-90%, you have it almost fully open, yes?

Around here, it's cooler in the morning, but that means the relative humidity is highest. I can choose between cooler but more humid or hotter and drier. Right now (night time) the relative humidity is 80%. It can be 90%. But, during the day when it's hotter, it will fall to 50% or less.

I actually have been giving a final stir (by hand) before loading the gun and a swirl in the cup when I come back in an hour to spray again. I'll try skipping that, at least for the gloss. I'm surprised, though. I'd think being atomized by the sprayer would undo any stirring bubbles, but if you've seen it, then you've seen it. My stir is pretty mild, though.


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## AandCstyle (Mar 21, 2012)

Ed, you could call Jeff Weiss at Target, he is very helpful.


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## ScottM (Jul 10, 2012)

> Ed, you could call Jeff Weiss at Target, he is very helpful.
> 
> - AandCstyle


Call or send an email. Very responsive. I spray EM6000 using my cheapo HF HVLP turbine and haven't had any issues. It just may be the heat but never added anything to it so not sure if that's adding to your issues.


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## DustyM (May 16, 2016)

> Ed, you could call Jeff Weiss at Target, he is very helpful.
> 
> - AandCstyle
> 
> ...


Similarly here, my sprayer is quite a few tiers under the OP's (Earlex 5500). When I first sprayed, it looked a little orange-peely, but I decided to walk away and let it sit, and it dried just fine. Is it only when it's wet that it looks this way? How is it drying?


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## d38 (Sep 6, 2017)

Agree, contact Jeff. I found messaging on Facebook gets a fast response. 
I'm using EM9300 on interior window trim sprayed with an Earlex 6300 3-stage and it works great. 
Did you test the EM6000 viscosity? I had to dilute my 9300 some. 
I stir the gallon can with a paint stick, then cone filter into the cup. 
I have ugly orange peal a couple minutes after spraying, but it smooths out great as it dries. 
Don't know if adjusting your fluid knob would help. 
I'm assuming you set the fluid knob by spraying on cardboard. Another technique I learned at the KC woodworking show was to spray on clear plastic sheeting. Shows atomization better than cardboard - the big drops show up better.
I test application thickness with a Fuji #3074 Wet Film Mil Gauge.


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