# Need help on how to fix uneven table top



## Grantford (Aug 6, 2014)

This is my first table project and I know no other woodworkers to ask for help so I thought I would join this great forum.
I jointed the boards the best I could on my table saw and am happy with that. But the boards are not all the same thickness and I do not own a planner.
While 3 boards are about the same 2 are - or + at least 1/8" and at least 1 of the 3 similar boards seems a little warped. Nothing is attached or put together yet.

It will be a coffee table made up of five 6" wide by 35" length boards of black walnut and I am stuck.

My question, is there any way to make the table top so it comes out looking flush and all the boards are at the same level on top? I didn't think it would be that big of an issue until I butted them all together and you can really see the unevenness of the top. 
I am going to build a frame for the top to rest on and have most tools besides a jointer and a planner. 
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!!!

The link below is the basic idea of what I am trying to build 
"http://ana-white.com/content/tryde-coffee-table"

Here is my top so far if that helps at all









Thanks!!
Grantford


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## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

Couple of ways. A router sled that rides on rails. A hand plane (#6-8) size. Rent time at a cabinet shop that has a wider belt sander, and see if they can run it through their equipment. Welcome to LJs.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

+1 on Shane's tips.
OR
Glue em up where the top is level and the underside has all the unevenness and then route a profile on the lower edge to hide the unevenness.


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## Grantford (Aug 6, 2014)

Thank you both so much! gfadvm your tip sounds like something I can actually do! Man this beats spending hours trying to think of a solution on my own with the little experience I have to draw on. 
I have been woodworking about 7 years as a hobby and am very passionate about it but I would give anything to have had someone to show me the ropes it is a large learning curve on every new project I try. Everything looks very do-able when I get an idea or see something online but without fail when I try to put it all together the problems start one after another even with plans like this project. Once I figure out the solution it seems so obvious but without the basic foundation it is always a hard time.
Thanks again!
Grantford


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

If you can't get access to a jointer, I would glue them up and put the warped one to one side or the other. If you put it in the middle somewhere, the whole top will be warped. You can then use a hand plane and plane the wide ones down to being even with the others. Like Andy said, even them up at glue up so that the top side is even. Not sure what your frame will be like, but likely any warp will not be very noticeable or you can just put the legs on and then cut or sand off the legs a little so that the table sits evenly and doesn't wobble. Only you and someone with a tape measure will be able to tell the top is a little warped.


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## Yonak (Mar 27, 2014)

> Glue em up where the top is level and the underside has all the unevenness and then route a profile on the lower edge to hide the unevenness.
> 
> - gfadvm


My favorite way of gluing so that all the tops of the boards are even with each other and, as an added bonus, helps to strengthen the entire top, is using splines. Cutting your grooves, always keeping the top side against the fence, makes sure the top will be even.


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## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

First I was wondering if you want it to have a rustic look? If that knot hole is all the way through, that will lend it to a rustic look. Do they have the same amount of sap wood on either side? If so, then it won't matter which side is up. I like to hide the sap wood or cut it off.
If you have a hand plane, you should plane the warp out of at least one side so you can have all flat sides up. It is good to have the sides flat before running through the table saw because a warp will throw the edge cut off. One thing to keep the aligned is to biscuit them by registering on the tops of all of them and then you can be assured of a reasonable fit when you clamp them together. You can get a cutter to make the biscuit grooves with your plain router that will assure fit. I prefer that over the biscuit cutting tool that I have
Like gfadvm said if they undersides are varying, after they are all glued together and cut to finished length and width, rout the edges all around to the same thickness and put some edge profile on it so it looks uniform all the way around from the outside .

good luck!!...............Jim


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## TheWoodenOyster (Feb 6, 2013)

+1 to the first post. Whatever you do, don't even think about a belt sander. Don't ask how I know.


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## Grantford (Aug 6, 2014)

Thanks so much for all your tips! 
The bottoms of the boards have much more sap wood. Here is my plan for the frame









So it looks like I am going to cut the remainder of the sap wood off so I can shift the boards and put the warped on at the end then will try and make slot cuts and put splines then glue then hand plane.

Question on the splines I have a 1/8" and 1/4" slot cutter bit for my router will that work? Or should i use my table saw or what? Also I dont have a router table is that a problem? last do I buy the slines or use whatever is laying around to make them?

Thanks again!!
Grantford


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## Yonak (Mar 27, 2014)

Grantford, that looks like a sturdy base. Since you plan to have so many supports beneath, I would be tempted to put the warped board in the middle, then draw out the bow by attaching to the supports with screws.

Regarding splines, I use a table saw. Using a router, especially without a table, could be tricky. If your boards are ~3/4" thick, I would cut 1/4" dados and cut splines out of whatever you have on hand to fit, but not so tight that you have a hard time getting them in. I'm assuming, from an earlier post, that you will have edging or breadboard ends, or a profiling method as gfadvm suttests, to hide the splines and the uneven boards.

If you use breadboard ends or edging, keep in mind that boards will tend to change dimension by seasons while the ends will remain the same length. (..Just another design issue to contend with.)


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Maybe glue up a couple at a time using cauls.

Mike Henderson has a great tutorial on shop made cauls:

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/12302


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

That base seems a little overkill, is there a reason for that?


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## Nomad62 (Apr 20, 2010)

It may be a good idea, if you haven't already, to look around your area for a woodworking guild. They exist out there, and are always looking for interested members.


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## Grantford (Aug 6, 2014)

Thanks i'm in Chicago so im sure there are some. I chose that base because it seemed like something I could do and works with the top I want. I think you are right probably over kill and will do only one support board in the middle and leave the rest out.

Cauls are a good idea and I think I will just glue two up then add another and so on it will take longer but hopefully I can do a better job getting the top level that way.

Thanks Yonak for the info I probably would have spent all weekend trying to setup the router for it. On the table saw should I dado a slot the whole length of the boar? Oh and boards are around .82 .96 .89 in thickness 
Also thanks for the tip on the Ends

Thanks!
Grantford


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

Do you have a dado set? If so remember to place the top side of each board toward the fence. You can run the slot all the way if you will have breadboards, otherwise stop them before each end.


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## Grantford (Aug 6, 2014)

Yes thankfully I do have a dado set! If I dont want to run the slot all the way what is the best way to start the cut?

Thanks
Grantford


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## Yonak (Mar 27, 2014)

> Yes thankfully I do have a dado set! If I dont want to run the slot all the way what is the best way to start the cut?
> 
> Thanks
> Grantford
> ...


A blind dado would be a way of avoiding having to figure out how to hide the splines on the ends. It takes thinking about the procedure and practice.

I usually put marks on the fence marking the locations where the ends of the board will be when the groove cut starts and ends. Being certain I am blocking the end of the board from moving, and resting the edge of the board on the front corner of the table saw top, I set the edge of the board slowly down on the turning blade with the leading edge of the board at the mark. Then I continue the cut until the trailing edge of the board reaches it's mark. Then I carefully raise the board or I turn the saw off.

The best part about it is the start and end don't have to be precise .. just make sure your splines are cut and positioned so that they rest only in the deepest part of the groove.

Remember this requires practice and utmost attention to safety.


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## jmartel (Jul 6, 2012)

Grantford,

You wouldn't need any of the 4 support pieces in the middle of that base. I wouldn't use them.

And you can flatten with a belt sander. I do it all the time. Not sure why WoodenOyster is opposed to it. Just check your progress frequently and be prepared for a lot of clean-up sanding. If you don't own any hand planes or a planer/jointer, there's nothing wrong with using a beltsander.

You could also use a router jig as well if you were so inclined.


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## Grantford (Aug 6, 2014)

Thank you so much Yonak you are a wealth of info and have saved me hours!

Grantford


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## Grantford (Aug 6, 2014)

Really? ok that will make it even easier thanks! I don't yet have a belt sander so couldn't even if I wanted too.


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

+1 on making a mark on the fence where to start your groove and one for where to end. For splines I have used 1/4" plywood. Remember it is not true 1/4" so you have to set up your dado to match the thickness of the plywood.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

I would suggest putting tape on your supports, clamp each board to the support, use screws from under the supports to the board. Glue up the second board, attach to the first one, clamp, screw. With the amount of supports you have, you should be able to straighten up all the boards. Once the glue sets, remove the screws and fasten the top. You can actually use the screws but make sure the holes in the supports are slightly bigger than the screw shaft diameter.


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## nicksmurf111 (Jun 6, 2014)

The first glue-up I did was a shelf. I jointed, glued them up then hand planned the shelf flat. Took quite a lot longer than I'd want. Now I have a planer.


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## Grantford (Aug 6, 2014)

Ok last question before I get started tomorrow. Should a glue up and clamp 2 boards first wait a few hours then add another etc.. till all 5 are done or should I clamp and glue all 5 at once?? (wife said as long as its done by end of summer she doesn't care) so I have time if its advantageous to line up and do it a board at a time.

Thanks again I feel stupid for not using such a great resource before! 
-Grantford


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

It takes 15-30 minutes for the glue to set, lets say 1 hour. you will be done in 6 hours.


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

For me the best way to get a nice flat glue up is do them all at the same time. Do you have enough of the same type of bar clamps that you can set them on a flat surface and then set the panel on the clamps and put the pressure on. I mostly use 3/4" pipe clamps for this because they don't bend and the panels can sit directly on the pipe as opposed to F clamps. Otherwise you can set the panel on a flat surface with some kind of glue free film such as wax paper. Put the pressure on and add weight to the top to keep them flat. Remember not to use too much pressure.


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## TheWoodenOyster (Feb 6, 2013)

I'm against using a belt sander because I used one to level the first tabletop I ever did, and it was hard maple. I was clueless about cauls or aligning the tops of the boards or anything. I guess I expected too much out of the belt sander. I sanded for a LONG time. You could do it, but I wouldn't advise it unless you love sanding.


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

Belt sanding can go a lot faster if you sand perpendicular to the grain as long as you switch back to inline before you're done.


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## Grantford (Aug 6, 2014)

I have two 3/4" pipe clamps I wish I had more but it will have to do. I was just wondering in my case as some boards are a bit warped and while close not all boards are the same thickness if there is an advantage to glue and clamp one board at a time or if it is better to do them all at once.

Thanks,
Grantford


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

Whereabouts are you located? Maybe someone on here is close to you and would be willing to let you joint/place those 5 boards at their shop.


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## Grantford (Aug 6, 2014)

Chicago, IL


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

If it were me i would do them all at once. The splines are going to line them up as long as you put the top of each board against the fence each time. While one or two boards may not ne flat, you can make the top as a whole flat.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

My recommendation for what it's worth. Buy a hand plane, flatten the sole a bit, make it very sharp. Glue up the walnut making the top flush. Plane the bottom flat-ish, first across the grain, then diagonal, then with the grain to smooth it out. If you get too much tear out planing with the grain, you can just sand it smooth. It's the bottom and doesn't have to be perfect. That was practice, now do the top. I flattened a number of tables that way when I started and it's not as bad as you fear it will be. It doesn't have to be dead perfect flat, just look flat. I was even using a hardware store bench plane because I didn't know any better.

Then rethink that base. It's the type of thing you might make with construction lumber, not a nice hardwood. The construction is somewhat oddball and way too heavy. I'm telling you this since you've been woodworking for awhile, if this was your first project then I'd let it go. But since you've been in the hobby for awhile it's time to step up your skills a bit and learn how to properly make a table base.


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## Grantford (Aug 6, 2014)

Thanks! Any examples of what kind of base you might mean?


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

I think the basic base would be 4 legs, with mortises to accept the aprons, which would have the tenons, usually haunched tenons in this application. If you don't have the means to do that, you could use dowels, or even pocket screws.










You could cut a groove in the aprons to use table top fasteners that fit in the groove, or use a figure-8 style fastener. These allow for seasonal movement of the top.


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## Grantford (Aug 6, 2014)

Wow thanks for the info and pics! makes it easy to see what you mean.
Grantford


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

http://www.finewoodworking.com/fwnpdffree/free-plan-arts-and-crafts-coffee-table.pdf

The Arts and Crafts style isn't important but the plan gives you a nice view of how to build a coffee table.

More ideas:
http://www.pinterest.com/jimroth/free-coffee-table-plans/

More importantly, get yourself a good book on woodworking and learn the joinery involved then you can build anything. There is a book thread or two somewhere here on LJ if you want some recommendations.

I'm guessing that plan you have came from Ana White?


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

Another way is to use hanger bolts. Nyou can build a very strong table this way and avoid mortise and tenon if you are not able or inclined to do it., plus then the legs can be taken off. The aprons are attached together with angled pieces across the inside. The hanger bolts are put into the legs and then holes are drilled thru the angled pieces to accept the bolts and then washers and nuts. I don't have any way to draw it out.


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

Here, like this.
http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/304/heirloomtables.pdf


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## Grantford (Aug 6, 2014)

Thanks Firefighter!!! I think that is what I will do I have mortise and tenoned once before but feel its above my level to try it on this table so your suggestion is right in my wheel house! Thanks again for taking the time all you guys have been great.

Grantford


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## Yonak (Mar 27, 2014)

> Here, like this.
> http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/304/heirloomtables.pdf
> 
> - firefighterontheside


Excellent resource, Bill.


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

Hope that works out for you. I'll be waiting to see your table now.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Even simpler …


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## OldWrangler (Jan 13, 2014)

Sounds to me like you need to get an advance on this years Christmas present and tell the family you need a biscuit cutter. That will make life a whole bunch easier. Done right with enough biscuits, they will just about straighten any problem.

A handy tip my grandpa taught me in his wood shop. When making the legs for a table, they don't have to all be the same, they just have to look the same. I made a lot of tables over the 50 years since I worked with him and it has always saved me time and materials . No one notices and I don't tell them.


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## Grantford (Aug 6, 2014)

Will do Bill!
I picked up this hobby during my college years out of a great interest of wanting to make something that I and others would use all the time but looked better than anything I could buy in my low budget price range. As all my college furniture was so poorly crafted. I wish they offered shop in my high school and wish even more I had a family member to show me when I was a kid as I know I would be at a much higher skill level at age 32 then I am. Each new project such as this one is an amazing learning experience but it is equally frustrating to learn the hard way and always takes so long but I will be wiser for it the next table I build. Totally agree on the legs I knew I couldn't find 4"x4" walnut legs for cheep so I went to a local nonprofit salvage warehouse and found great old stair banister spindles for 2 bucks each!

I will have to wait for actual Christmas OldWangler The wife just got me my first miter saw for my birthday last month so I don't want to push my luck!

Grantford


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