# Where to buy 3 inch spade bit



## sandman2869 (Feb 17, 2011)

My aunt asked me if I could make some bed risers for my uncle as it is hard for him to get out of bed.
Never making anything like this before, i started looking around on google and found some instructions on making them, but it calls for a 3 inch spade bit.
I can't seem to find them anywhere and the local home depot insists that they do not exist.
Does anyone happen to know where I can purchase one?

Thank you in advance


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

Look at this:

http://www.google.com/products/catalog?oe=utf-8&q=adjustable+spade+bit&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=5197922269775652336&sa=X&ei=El6OTaD-OZO6sAPcmYCXCQ&ved=0CCkQ8wIwAg#

You'll get the best results from such a cutter using a drill press.


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

i wuold say the same 3 inch is huge for a any type of drillbit
but if you try to surch on the other kind of bits that is used for eurohinges 
and thy are round then ….maybee 
but I wuold say you shuold use a holesaw to drill down and then cheisel the waist out

Dennis

Edit : it was Forstner bits I ment


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## sandman2869 (Feb 17, 2011)

Thank you both very much. I agree that it seems huge but that is what the instructions call for. I am going to place the order from amazon as I don't have any chisels either (I am just starting out)

Dennis, a question of ignorance if you don't mind?
What are the advantages of the Forstner bit over the spade bit?


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## Dusty56 (Apr 20, 2008)

Use caution if you choose the self-feeding bit as pictured in above link….you can't just stop it like a regular bit due to the screw type point on it.
I would use a Forstner bit in a drill press if you have to have a perfectly round hole.

Why not just cut a block to the correct height and then enclose the block with a wood of your choice to surround the bed leg ? E-Z P-Z


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## teejk (Jan 19, 2011)

leon

I personally think a 3" spade bit will break your arm (and ruin your drill) unless you go very slowly and "chip" away at it. forstner is more $$$ and the same concept other than it's round (rather than flat like a spade bit) and will "hog" a hole faster. both leave a relatively flat bottom at the end of the hole.

without seeing your plans, is the purpose solely to get a socket into a recess to tighten a lag bolt? if so, 3" is a lot.


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## sandman2869 (Feb 17, 2011)

Here is what I am looking to make
http://www.shopgetorganized.com/item/WOOD_BED_RISERS/27628?src=GOGO0406&ovchn=GGL&ovcpn=1+Top+Products&ovcrn=sr3_153661874_go+furniture+risers&ovtac=PPC&SR=sr3_153661874_go&gclid=CIHN6Jbx46cCFZJe7Aod0hJeTw

and here are the instructions:
http://www.ehow.com/how_7283690_make-wooden-bed-risers.html

The sole purpose of it is to create a recess large enough for bed casters


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## saddletramp (Mar 6, 2011)

the spade bit is $33.00 and the risers are$20.00 a set of 4. Making them seems a little counter productive.


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## dkirtley (Mar 11, 2010)

I personally wouldn't touch that with a drill. Chucked in a lathe with a four jaw chuck or a mortising bit in a plunge router with a template would be better options.

I also see from your projects that you have a bandsaw. Do it like a bandsaw box.


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## D_Allen (Oct 11, 2010)

Walmart has a set of 4 plastic ones for less than $15.
I use them and they are holding up well after several years.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

How big are the feet on your uncle's bed?

You don't have to make the holes much bigger than the actual
feet on the bed itself. The commercial product is a one-size-fits-all,
which is why the holes are 3".

Regardless, drilling a hole for the bed foot is far from the only
way to make the riser and bed stay in place. All you need to do
is capture the foot so it doesn't slide off the riser, which is
easily done with a bit of trim and some nails.

I suspect the ehow was written by somebody who has never
followed his or her own directions and probably isn't even a 
competent woodworker.


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## Racer2007 (Jan 13, 2011)

I would also say just buy them unless you think you are going to need that bit again.


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

I would think a 3" spade bit would be dangerous and also have a short life. I can't imagine that thing spinning wood around if it slipped out of a clamp. My friend just got his thumb working again after a couple of months in bandages. Think about this before you buy this thing.


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## sandman2869 (Feb 17, 2011)

Ok, so I just talked to my aunt and as it turns out, it isn't for his bed, it is for his chair.
I am having my aunt measure the legs so that it will fit them perfectly.
My main concern now is stability.

I know these can be purchased cheaply from the store, but I am more interested in gaining the experience with these different types of projects.

I was also thinking the hole size was for a one size fits all type of deal but didn't know for sure.
I may even throw some wood on the lathe and turn them instead (so they aren't so bulky looking)

After I get the dimensions and get them made, I will post pictures.
Thank you all for the great feedback.
I truly appreciate it!


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## canadianchips (Mar 12, 2010)

I use ones like Loren showed for my log furniture. I use my hand brace to turn it. These cutters do cut well, 4 holes shouldn't be a big deal. (Depending what you are cutting.) You can find and old bit tlike this at flea markets or yard sales. CHEAP. These can be sharpened.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

There are so many other projects and tools you will get more use from . I agree with those that say a 3" spade bit is trouble particularly someone with out experience. If you insist on using the 3" spade bit please post photos of you injuries so others won't make the same mistake. I hope no matter how you do this that you are not hurt.


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

if you have a lathe … I can´t understand why the heck you ain´t just make the holes 
on that as you wood make a bowl just with a flat bottom inside and outside

Dennis


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## Dusty56 (Apr 20, 2008)

If it's just a chair now instead of a bed , why not make a simple platform for the chair to sit on ?


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

Jim, You just need to keep a good hold of it ;-)) Electricians and plumbers run 3 and 4 inch wood bits all the time. Years ago, I had a purchasing agent send out a Forster bit instead of a self feeder. I had to drill several larger holes through 4 or 5 inches of wood. He thought he was saving a buck. That is how office guys think, without their brains turned on! Those holes took an hour a piece instead of an hour for all of them ;-(

Leon, be sure to use clamps in the drill press!!


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## teejk (Jan 19, 2011)

leon

you don't mention what tools you own. your quest for a new experience is admirable but I'm afraid it will give you some knowledge that you will rarely (if ever) use again. that spade bit is expensive and can be dangerous (they "grab" at the outer points of the bit to define the hole and the rest of the bit chisels it away…that grabbing part has led to a few sprained wrists and even a few broken noses when the bit hangs up but the drill wants to keep going!...i.e. whereas in normal drilling the bit spins and the drill stays stationary, when the bit hangs up, those two trade places. that gets worse as the size of the bit increases so don't shy away from spade bits entirely since you will need them on occasion, just not a 3" model). And hogging out 4 holes at that diameter will likely send the bit to your recycling bin when you are done.

So, rather than saying NO NO NO, let's open up the discussion to alternatives. In my simple mind (combined with an occasional tight fist that I prefer to call "thrifty")...seems to me that nothing says the recess has to be round. Getting a uniform depth on all 4 is very important. A mortise (square or rectangular recess) cut on a stationary machine would probably work (and give you some experience that you most likely will use again) but since you say you are just starting out, that is probably not an option. Loren probably has the best idea on a limited tool selection. Use solid blocks (uniform in length) then "build" your recess on top with trim, glue and nails.

Remember that your blocks are going to be under a chair. Make it look nice, but don't get carried away. Nobody is going to stand back and point out the minor flaws.


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## sandman2869 (Feb 17, 2011)

Thank you all for the great warnings/suggestions. I don't know why I spaced out putting some wood in the lathe, I'm a maroon. I may eveb decide to just build a base as was suggested.

I'm not so much a masochist, so no broken bones for me (knock on wood). Thank you all again and I will be sure to post some pictures when I get done.


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

3" spade bit? Been nice knowin' ya.
Bill


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

If it hangs up boring a small block it will destroy the block. When using large wood boring bits, I always hold them so the drill will pull free of and way from me if it hangs up. Even small ones get a little dicey when they hit a 16d nail ;-)


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## richgreer (Dec 25, 2009)

FWIW - I have a 3" Forstner bit that I use in my drill press.

When using it I always take an incremental approach. Securing clamp the stock in place. First use the 3" bit to only mark the outside of the circle. Then, switch to a 1" bit and drill, then 1.5", then 2", etc.

It's virtually impossible to drill a 3" hole in hardwood in a single pass.

Also, slow your drill press down as slow as possible. For me that is 220 r.p.m.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

The above described adjustable bit will work just fine* if*:
1) you use it in a hand brace as it was originally intended. or 
2) drill a pilot hole the size of the large end of the feeder screw and use a drill press with the material well clamped.

It's not an optimal safety situation but I've used them often at large diameters and they're not scary if you plan ahead. The main point here is that the screw thread is there to draw the bit into the wood as you crank on your hand brace. It is not needed for that purpose when using power (and can hurt you).


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## drewnahant (Dec 10, 2009)

if the intent is just to drill a large flat bottom hole, use a forstener bit. buy a set, they are cheaper that way, and I guarantee you will use them constantly. forsteners are safer, leave a smoother hole, and a flat, smooth bottom. for this type of project, and most shop work, get the type with a brad point instead of a screw point, those are really only good for construction drilling, I use a 1 1/2 for elecrical conduit all the time, I like it better than an auger. If you have a drill press, use it, for these big bits, it will really save your arms, and come out much better. I have used a 3" forstener with a cordless drill, it gets the job done, but it really benefits from the extra pressure a drill press gives.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

drewnahant, Why do you like it better than an auger for construction?


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## Stormin (Oct 6, 2010)

We use Forstener bits also for conduit 1 1/4 and up. Some of our smaller guys seem to have a problem with larger auger bits and Millwalkie Hole Hogs.


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