# Ridgid R4511 10 in. Granite Top Table Saw



## Newton

Nice review, is the saw blade right or left tilt? A universal complaint in reviews is the mobile bases…..looks like you found the good one.


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## spaids

The only trouble I've had with my Ridgid Saw (the old kind) is that the miter gauge slot was not ground correctly and I had to sand out a burr/hump to get a miter gauge through without it getting stuck. Other than that its been plenty for my needs. I'm not going to lie to you though and pretend I'm not envious of your lifetime of rust free table saw top. It looks like Ridgid has upgraded their saw in almost every way possible.

Nice.

PS got any mag jigs you want to sell now?


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## PurpLev

*Don* - Thanks. this is a left tilt saw.

*Spaids* - the miter slot on mine are ok, but I've heard of others that were too tight as you mentioned - a little sanding should do the trick. I'm not completely sold on the granite top concept, but I do have high humidity in the summer where I'm at so that would be a blessing mostly. other than that - I never had a cast iron top (previous TS ws aluminum top - non magnetic either) so I don't have any mag jogs to give… but I'll keep you in mind


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## Cato

Good review PurpLev.
I figured once you got your fence adjusted you would do a write up. I really like the portability coupled with the 3/4 cabinet design, so I can roll it right up to the wall. Dust control much better with the cab. Like you the power of the saw is fine for my needs, and for me as a hobby person to woodworking, at this point anyway I doubt I would need more.


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## a1Jim

Good Review lots of details and things of interest.


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## Karson

Great review with lots of details. I'm guessing that you made notes as you went through the process.

I've thought I've heard others saw that the riving knife was thicker than the blade that came with the saw. Did you experience that


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## PurpLev

Thanks *Cato*. this is indeed a fantastic machine.

*Karson* - thanks, the factory supplied splitter is 0.090" and is thinner than the factory supplied blade. I made my riving knife out of 1/8" aluminum sheet which is rather thick - but I'm using a Forest WWII blade which seems to be as thick/thicker than my knife so I have no problems (I actually also used the factory supplied blade with the 1/8" knife with no problems - surprising, but it worked for me) - If I had to make another riving knife - I'd use 0.090" thick material though.


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## Timbo

Great review Purplev, adding the WWII makes a pretty sweet saw. I added the Forest Dampener/Stiffener along with the WWII and can now make perfectly smooth rip cuts. Now to make fence faces, would you use the phenolic again?


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## Routerisstillmyname

Dang that looks sweet. I wish I hadn't bought my 3660 now.


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## PurpLev

*Tim*, the phenolic is a phenomenal material (pun intended) - it's glass smooth, heavy, and ridgid. but is horrible to work with - creates very fine dust similar to MDF dust - only this one stinks. as long as you can work outdoors with it, have good dust control setup for it, and dont mind getting a little dirty - I would do it again knowing what I know today, but this is very tough on tool edges (resins, and the material itself being abrasive) so make sure you use clean sharp tools, and take light light passes. I still have the router table project ahead of me in which I'll be utilizing my 1 3/8" thick phenolic board (28"x32") - not really looking forward to the dust and working with the material - but am VERY looking forward to having that table top. one last note - this material is so smooth, that it's hard to clamp a straight edge guide to it (to cut it with a circular saw/router)... so take your time and work slowly and carefully, you can also put some blue tape on the board, and put the straight guide on top of that for some friction.

For the face frames though - I think UHMW would be a better choice - lighter material, easier to cut and work with. I just happened to have the phenolic, so I made use of it.


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## dlux

Timbo, did you use the Forrest STIF05 Dampener/Stiffener? I had thought about getting one, but wanted to hear how well it worked with this TS first. I think this is the right one for this TS, but since you already have I wanted to make sure before ordering.

Purp, when you start cutting the phenolic for the router table, you should cut a few fence faces. There might be a red head interested in buying one from you….


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## BigET

Thanks for the great review of this saw. I was going to go to HD to get their TS3660, but discovered they do not carry them anymore, but was excited to see this saw there. After a little searching on the web, I was uncertain about purchasing it. Your detailed review has me thinking this is an excellent saw for my needs, even better than the TS3660 at not much more cost. Thanks again!


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## Timbo

dlux,
I purchased the Dampener/Stiffener from Forrest while at a woodworking show and do not know the model number, unfortunately I'm out of town at the moment but I'll check and let you know know when I get back to the shop.


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## PurpLev

*dlux*, *Tim*- are you guys using the Thin Keft WWII? I'm using the full kerf 1/8" - which is also why I'm using the 1/8" riving knife… I have been using this blade also with my previous Bosch 4100, and is has always performed well (power wise).

P.S. Make sure you use appropriate riving knife thickness if you use a thin kerf blade (or at least have the front of it sharpened down)!!!

*BigET*- you're welcome. the 3660 is an excellent saw hands down and would be another great choice (Based on other LJs reviews and experience that I've read here). I just personally wanted the features that the hybrid has (enclosed base/motor, riving knife, cabinet mounted trunnions). and since it's through HD you can always get a 10% discount when purchasing it (PM me if you're not sure how). Or if you are not in a rush and can wait for HD to have a major sale you might even be able to get a bigger discount.


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## Ottis

Purplev,
Congrats on the new saw…..I had the old T2424 table saw and LOVED it…never gave me a seconds problem. Only reason I went to a cabinet saw is because I actually needed the 3hp. As far as the factory belt that came with it. If it is still made by the same people that made mine…and made to the same quality mine was….I would NEVER change it. I also had the same belt on my old 2424….it never wore out, lasted for years, and if it sat for weeks or even months in between being used…it never vibrated a bit. After almost ten years of use, when I sold it, it would still pass the nickle test with the factory belt it came with. The old man who bought it was simply amazed at how smooth and quite it was.

Again, congrats on the new saw, I am sure it will give you YEARS of trouble free service if it is even HALF the saw my old ridgid was.


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## romoranger

Excellent review, I have owned this saw since March and have been able to work it pretty hard so I figure that I might be able to lend some more information. One of the best things about this saw is how easy it is to extend the rails to get more rip capacity.







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Slide the front one over, pick up some angle iron and you are good to go. I think I have something like 43" to the right of the blade. I could make it longer but I would have to replace the front rail as well (not too difficult). At first I thought the fence was kind of cheesy (I was coming from using Jet and Powermatic cabinet saws) but it works surprisingly well. I just added a piece of melamine to the side of it and I was good to go. I was fortunate enough to not have any adjusting to do to my saw, darn thing came pretty much perfect from the factory.

The one vice I have with this saw is its motor. I have mine wired for 220, and have a 10gauge extension cord plugged into a 30amp 220 outlet, all of which far exceeds the demands of this saw. The motor bogs down far more than I would like it to on very hard and thick or knotted woods. The motor bogs down more than my friends delta hybrid, and he runs his on 110! I also have had some issues with the belt slipping an excessive amount, especially when the wood twists behind the blade and tightens up on it. As I said before, I am used to using 3hp saws, so I could be that I just haven't changed my cutting patterns yet. The blade on my saw is also new, I am using a Freud glue line rip blade, and when I cut thick stock I use an Oldham 24 tooth ripping blade. For melamine and the like I use either my glue blade or melamine blade, but sheet goods never causes the problems, only hardwoods.

I can't really comment on the miter gauge as I don't use one, I know of too many people that have lost digits using them.

PurpleLev, if you don't mind I think I am going to steal your riving knife idea, I think it might help out a lot with the motor bogging and belt spinning from the wood twisting.

Dust collection on the saw is good, but if you purchase this saw thinking your shop vac will work it definitely will not, I tried using mine while my DC was broken and the cabinet just ended up getting full. I will try to think of anything else that has come up with this saw, but so far I have been happy with it.


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## PurpLev

Thanks *romoranger* - that's some great info.

contradictory to some people's belief though - using 220 as opposed to 110 does NOT give the motor more power -nor does it use any less electricity (nor any more) - it simply distributes the electricity more evenly across the wires. the only noticeable difference would be in the motors' Startup, which would be easier on the motor (since it's getting the energy over 2 poles as opposed to 1).

if the wood twists behind the blade - a riving knife would take care of that, as this is what it's supposed to do. hope you get yours setup soon as it is a huge safety device (and a major reason why I chose THIS particular saw over others).


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## Timbo

Purplev, dlux, I'm using the full kerf but I still had slight saw marks on the wood when ripping the stiffener has eliminated that. I looked at the stiffener but it does not have a number on it.


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## woodspyder

WOOOO HOOOO
My wife and kids just got me this saw for Father's Day/Birthday. 
I am a lucky guy, blessed really. 
Anyway, your review was very helpful. I had to replace the left extension wing; the rear "threaded insert" wasn't threaded. Perils of mass production I guess. It came from HD so I was able to go to another store and they pulled one out of the crate to replace it no question. I haven't been able to use it much yet, but will soon hopefully. 
This replaces a 1970s Craftsman saw that was my dad's, good old saw but it's seen better days.
I too will try making a riving knife like your's, great Idea.

Thanks for the great review.


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## POPSHOP

Granite huh ? sweet ! I have one of these with a boring cast iron top . For the dollar the saw has been well serving . Out of the box the unit ripped with .003" deviation over a 20 " span .The blade was different with 2 low spots that went to .010 ",( I put a dial indicator on all my blades ) and Forester are the best thus far .


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## Durnik150

Great review Purplev. I have been looking at this exact tool and have been waiting for a thorough review to come through. I think you addressed all the major points of setup and operation.

Thank you for taking the time to post this review.


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## badgerman

I dido BigET's response. I've had my eye on that model also! Lay Away here I come. Excellent review, have you sent that review to Ridgid/Home Depot yet?


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## PurpLev

) *badgerman*, and *Charles*- I'm glad this review was helpful. I know there aren't many reviews on this saw around, and was really anxious to put one out there. So far the more I use it, the more I like it. I can see where a 3hp saw would be more fitting, as when I cut 3" (max blade height) material it does tend to slow down a bit (the feedrate - not the saw spin speed), but like I said - for most applications, this is not an issue.


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## Alonso83

Great review PurpLev, lot of good information.

I just got this saw last Sunday,nothing new to add but in just a few words, excellent performance for the value, you can't ask for more than this, I do like the hum of the motor itself, very quiet, stable, the granite top is great too, ( I do need to do some little tune-up, ie, wax the top, do I little work on the mitter slot) I've been thinking on replacing the stock mitter gauge with an Incra which I think will be a great upgrade, plus making the zero clearance / dado inserts and face fences . Without a doubt this is a huge upgrade for me, I use to have a little skil 3400 benchtop, this is my first "Real" table saw and I think it would be for a long time. Well spend money here, got it for $540 after 10% off at HD. 
Just my $ 0.02


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## floats

PurpLev, is the front rail and fence identical to the Steel City 39520 that you reviewed previously? I ask because I found a great deal on a Steel City Industrial II Fence, but it looks like that fence system uses a larger guide tube. I'm guessing it uses a 3" x 2" tube instead of approximately 2" x 2" tube on the R4511. I remember someone saying that the 39520 can be upgraded to the Industrial II Fence system, thereby making it the equivalent of the 39530. If the front rail/holder is the same on both the 39520 and the R4511, I'm wondering if I can just order the front tube from Steel City and be set? My understanding is the rear rail doesn't actually offer any support in the Industrial Fence system. I've e-mailed Steel City about this but haven't received a response back.


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## PurpLev

*floats:* indeed the difference between SC 39520 and 39530 is the fence alone, where the 39520 has the same fence the ridgid has, and the 39530 has SC's own industrial II fence which is a really nice fence. the SC industrial has a 1 piece front tube which is beefier than the ridgid one as you mentioned, and should also have a 1 piece rear angle iron rail.

If you found a great deal on one - I would go for it. worst case the ridgid and SC might have the mounting holes drilled differently in which case, you could drill your new fence using the existing one as a template.


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## cks

Great review. I am debating between Rigid 4511 and Bosch 4100-9dg. I do not need portability but safety is prime criteria. How do they match up?


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## PurpLev

cks. I replaced my Bosch 4100 with the Ridgid. they are 2 different animals. the Bosch is aimed at construction, and mobility (on site) but lacks the precision, and robustness of the Ridgid which is aimed at woodworking. if you are looking to do fine -woodworking, I have to recommend against the Bosch, as you'll find it's limitations early on. safety wise, both saws have a riving knife - which is something that was important to me as well when I was shopping for a new saw. the Bosch does have a much nicer guard system (same as they put on the new Unisaws), but I believe you could get a custom guard for the Ridgid that would be similar.


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## woodspyder

I just got a recall notice on my R4511. Seems the arbor needs to be replaced. The letter says they will come out and replace the arbor shaft free of charge. Has anyone else received this?


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## Durnik150

Hmmmmmm. I haven't been contacted on the recall yet. However, mine was built in the 21st week of 2009 (according to the date code). I'm not sure if they had already addressed it or not.

I'm still loving the saw though!!


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## kimnick

RIDGID R4510 RECALL - LACERATION HAZARD - GO HERE

OFFICIAL RECALL NOTICE
http://www.ridgid.com/Download/R4511_PR.pdf

RIDGID FORUM:http
http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27600


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## Durnik150

Thanks for the info Kimnick. The recall is clear about the date range of the saw that are affected. It sounds like they are trying to do good by the owners by coming to them to make the repairs. Hauling a 500 lb machine around would be a little ridiculous!

The thought of dado blades coming off the arbor and flying toward me is quite sobering. OK, it's downright scary!!!!!! Hopefully things will get taken care of with no further injuries.


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## glassyeyes

For me it was all about the "price point." Yes, the saw has a few flaws, but not much comes close at that price.

PRICE ALERT-HOME D HAS THEIR 25% OFF SALE GOING-$150 OFF A PURCHASE OF $600 OR MORE.

As PurpLev noted, the assembly instructions are a bit vague. But there are several reviews of the R4511 here, with a lot of tips worth reading. Just remember that this beast is particularly top-heavy. One version of the instructions shows part of the assembly occurring with the saw laid on it's back, on timbers. I don't think this is a very good idea, given the weight, and the load that lifting the saw up or down might put on the top and the leg assembly.


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## Czapala

Hey guys,

I am a SUPER newbie, but I love cutting wood and making things. I have NO tools … well real tools. I am borrowing a friends TS and chop saw for a couple of projects. It has re-ignited a desire to start slowly building a "work" shop. I have been keeping an eye out for what TS to get and I REALLY like this one. Especially if I can get a deal on it with a promotion or sale or something. only problem is my local HD doesn't carry this TS! :-(

Any ideas?


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## dlux

Welcome Czapala!

They should be able to order it for you. Just go to the service desk. I'm sure they would love to ring something up with that high of a price point. They need the business!


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## PurpLev

welcome aboard, like *dlux* said - one store can have get one from a neighboring store -when I bought mine , only 1 store in the state had any in stock, and the store closer to me offered to bring one over if I wanted to buy if from them. the current sale is really something that should be taken advantage of - you just won't find anything else in current market at that quality and performance and at this price.

make sure you buy a $1 pack of 18gauge brad nails to put the total sale at $600.xx to get the instant $150 back (otherwise the saw totals at $599 and you only get $75 back)


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## Czapala

Cool thanx for the suggestions. That is good to know!

Although I need to pay for my new grill before I spend more money.  I like to research stuff WAY before I buy it.

Although my friend might be wanting his stuff back soon .. hmmmm


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## charlton

Hey Sharon,

Does your blade go well below the table insert? The blade on the one I saw at HD didn't really go much below the table top (it barely clears) which means making ZCI is going to be a royal pain in the parse.

Thanks,
Charlton


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## PurpLev

Yes *Charlton*, the blade goes well below the table insert, well below the zero clearance blanks I used for ZCI. I've heard of another case of this saw where the blade didn't go below the table top (left at 1/4" above table). sounds like something is not right with your saw, or with the blade height mechanism. you should contact Ridgid and service that saw, or arrange a replacement with HD.


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## kimnick

PurpLev, well below = what in inches please. how thick are your zc blanks? thanks. trying to find the norm.


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## charlton

Thanks, Sharon. I haven't bought the saw yet but I'm tempted. I suppose I could make ZCI even if the blade doesn't go well below the plate but it makes it a bit trickier.

The saw at HD that didn't go all the way down had a date code of 928 (September 28) so it's pretty new stock. Would you have any idea what your date code might have been?


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## Diamondback

I just bought the 4511 yesterday and set it up in the afternoon so I have just a couple of extra things to say but refer to PurpLev for a great review that pretty much covers it all. I saw the reviews and comments yesterday and went to Home Depot. That was it. Thank you all for your insight and comments.

So just some set up comments.

1. The rip fence was a serious disappointment. I had used a friends 3650 for a few years and loved the fence. I had hoped the 4511 would have this fence but it obviously does not. I'll live with it until I can afford a better fence.

2. Yes, the manual kind of sucks in directions but you can usually figure it out, and yes, install the dust collector before you put the herc-u-lift in place.

3. So far I have found at least two places in the manual that refer to non existent sections of the "Adjustments" section of the manual. I guess I'll have to figure it out by inspecting the saw.

4. The bevel and vertical adjustment wheels are a little difficult to turn, inconsistent. The vertical adjustment wheel has a good amount of slop in it when you reverse direction. I will check that out. The blade does rest about 3/8 inch below the surface of the table top when completely lowered.

5. It was probably me but the arbor was a little finicky when putting the enclosed blade on. Be sure to get it seated all the way to the base of the arbor. I probably ruined the blade by not being careful about this.

6. One of the angle irons for the back rail was bent slightly at the inside tip but was easy to fix by bending it straight. All in all a poor back support for the rip fence.

7. Remove the motor cover completely and never put it back on until you are completely done assembling the table saw. It gets in the way a lot and the screws are a pain in the butt.

Finally, it sure sounds sweet when I turned it on yesterday. That is, just a nice hum. I'm anxious to get back out the today and try to fix the little things that I mentioned above, like the inconsistent wheel operation and slop in the vertical wheel. If I can fix that I will be very happy.

If I had to do it again I would try to find a reconditioned 3660 but I do know I will be happy with this and I'm never moving this from my garage. Heavy! Now, back to making some wood from my cherry pile.


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## PurpLev

well - first thing first - congratulations on your new saw!

I do agree that the fence on the 3650/3660 is easier to use, and is more versatile - it is very similar to the fence I had on my Bosch 4100 - aluminum extrusion with T tracks built in - I really liked it. however, I don't find the fence that came with the 4511 that disappointing - after you set it up properly and get all the kinks out.

as for the wheels being difficult to turn: check to make sure the wheel locks are loosened. either that, of there is some misalignment in the trunnions (based on your 'slop' comment) - I have absolutely no slop, and the wheels turn like butter! (unless I lock them from moving)

like I said - congrats on the purchase, it's a really great saw, definitely a great saw for the money. sounds like you might need to go through some finicky stuff to get it 'right'... but it's well worth the investment and work. go play with it, and get it setup properly. HD and Ridgid support as good and reliable.

enjoy.


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## Diamondback

Thanks for the information. I did have the locks backed out well so that wasn't an issue. The vertical adjustment wheel does turn like "butter" now but the slop looks like it will always be there. I think it just needed a coupled of repeats to "loosen" up a little. Just to quantify the slop for you, it has about a quarter to half a turn slop in the vertical adjustment. When you reverse directions it takes that amount of wheel turn to start affecting the wheel height. You say you have NO slop?? hmmm…. If you can, could you describe what you would look at the fix that? Looks to me like a "wheel"? in a track (inside the saw cabinet) but the wheel is smaller than the track width resulting in "slop" when changing direction… ? Thanks!

What is more troublesome is the bevel wheel that "pops" out of the gearing when it reaches the vertical position and I turn a little too hard to be sure it is seated at 90 degrees. The 90 degree stop and wheel combination don't seem to work all that well. There is not a solid stop but instead it always feels like you can turn the wheel just a little more, and then it ends up being the gears sliding up and popping to the next gears track. I took a look at it and there doesn't seem to be much I can to about tightening up the gear meshing of the bevel adjustment so it can't slide up out of the gearing valleys and pop into the next one. It concerns me a little but I will just have to be careful. I don't do many bevel cuts so I will probably be fine with this. If you have any ideas please let me know. I have set up the rest pretty well and things seem to be very flat and square where they should be. I will definitely enjoy this saw. Thanks again.


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## kimnick

Some insight on the same problem others are having. Search the ridgid forums. Try for another R4511, with a more recent date code maybe. Wish you luck. Never settle on a tool, regret will haunt you. Unfortunate.

R4511 Table Saw Bevel Stop Problem
http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27450

R4511 90 and 45 degree stop adjustment….
http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25255


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## PurpLev

*Diamondback* - I'll second, third, and double *kimnick* suggestion- talk to Ridgid or HomeDepot and get it replaced. (I'd start with Ridgid as they maybe be able to send you a service guy to your house, or if not - try contacting homedepot to come pick up the saw and bring you another unit at the same time - they did it for others).

it doesn't seem like you got a proper unit - and "hoping you don't do many bevel cuts" just doesn't cut it (literally), and won't fix the problem that evidently exists in your saw. In the long run you WILL regret it. although Ridgid's warranty is lifetime - I'd take care of it while you also can use Home Depot's support if needed. like I said - the wheels should be butter smooth, and should not cause the gears to fall out when reaching the end of the adjustments.

I do agree with you that those screw stops are worthless - like you, I can ALWAYS turn it just a 'tad bit more' which will throw it off square. I always always always check for square when I change bevels.


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## Diamondback

Again, thanks for the comments and helpful links. I removed the granite top and took a look at the guts. I enjoy doing that anyway. First off I found that the bolt holding the pivot bracket for the height adjustment was loose so I tightened that. That did have some slop it it. Then I see that the back left bracket was not fully engaged into the groove that the trunnion rides in so I loosened the back left bracket bolt and push the bracket into the pivot arm to fully engage it. Seems like it all works better now.

So, I'm back to center and flat and up and running. I changed blades while I was at it and tried a new Diablo I bought. Wow, fantastic. Smooth as if I ran it through my jointer. I am impressed.

Thanks for all the advice and help. Gave me some ideas that led me to get it tweaked out ok.

And yes, I never trust the angle marks, dead stops, etc. but remeasure and confirm 90, 45, height, etc. etc. I have learned that the hard way…


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## Diamondback

Just as an FYI the Freud Diablo blade mentioned above that I liked was the 10 inch 40 tooth "General Purpose" blade for $30.00.


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## Dovetail

Thanks for the review! PurpLev, I want to PM you re: how to obtain HD 10% discount, but I can't because I am new to this site/forum. If you read this, please message me with the information. Otherwise, I'll just wait until I achieve the 5 post mark.


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## nelson

If you want a zero clearance insert, just buy one off of Woodcraft. The ZCI they sell for the Steel City saw fits perfectly. It has 4 set screws to adjust the height, and a screw to adjust the width and another to adjust the front to back dimension. For $30, its tough to beat.


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## farmertech

I just bought the R4511 and this review helped me to make the decision! I followed your steps and it went together pretty well. The only issue I had was when I attached the wings and laid a 4 foot level across the table, there was about a 3/8ths inch gap on each end. I tried using the set screws to make up the difference, but it did not help. It did not seem right that there should be that much of a drop on each end. I loosened up both wings, and cut an old credit card into strips that would fit in between the leveling arms under the wings and put a stack of 3 under each arm. I readusted the wings and now my level lays flat across. I have just made a couple of practice cuts so far, but it is a nice rig. It was on sale for $499.00, and a $200.00 gift card and 20% rebate did not hurt either!

Ithaca, Wisconsin


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## PurpLev

thats terrific! congrats on the new saw! I think I lucked out with the set screws being enough to align the table wings. no there should be less than 0.005" low spots on the entire table - 3/8" is definitely no good. just like you did - I got quite a bit of PMs of people that asked about what to do, and I suggested them to do exactly what you did - shim it with whatever you can. remember - those set screws are not holding the wings - they just help you align it, what holds the wings aligned and tight, are the large bolts.

the saw is definitely priced well, and with all those coupons and gift cards it seems like you pretty much got it for a dime. enjoy !


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## Diamondback

I've been using my "new" 4511 for a couple of months now and it's working like a charm. I still think the rip fence is poor but it works ok. (Nudge, clamp and check, nudge, clamp and check..etc.) Some day an upgrade is in order but new fences cost as much or a whole lot more than I paid for the table saw..lol. As you just said, the price is certainly right for a saw like this. Can't be beat. I wonder what it will be replaced with now that it's discontinued.

The 3/8 inch drop is pretty surprising and excessive but I'm glad you could make it work out farmertech. I was fortunate to be able to adjust mine without shims but as long as it worked out you are good.

Well, tomorrow sounds like it will get above 20 degrees so I can work out in the garage again…lol. Zero was just a little too chilly today. Enjoy!


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## nordichomey

Great to hear. I too pulled the trigger on the R4511 after researching for months…. price and LSA just can't be beat.

Diamond Back I hear you on the cold! Time to make an ice rink on the pond behind the house!


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## bjohnson

Farmertech,

I bought my saw a week ago, I haven't assembled it yet. I hope I get a chance to put it together this weekend. How did you score a $200.00 gift card with the purchase of the R4511 saw? Was the 20% part of the Friends & Family Rebate?


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## PurpLev

If you're asking me- it wasn't $200, it was $150, and it was during HD's powertool sale - if you buy powertools over $600 you get instant $150 off. HD holds those sales a couple times a year. just so happened they had one when I bought mine.


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## cliffton

well i finally jumped on the wagon and got me one, if anyone is interested in finding one, lubbock and amarillo only have the display models. got it home and put it together, with the 10% instant discount, family friends, and selling my old craftsman it came out to 325$ D

cant wait to make some sawdust.


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## PurpLev

congrats cliffton, hope you enjoy it as much as the rest of us


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## Çggghgyt

PurpLev, just picked up one of these yesterday. Your blogs have helped a lot. I'm about 75% finished with the assembly. You are right, the instructions are terrible. I would have hated to try to figure this out without the helpful hints you and others have given. One note I would add is that I took your advice and took the top off to aid in assembly. Unfortunatley I didn't know the top was shimmed. The shims fell to the ground as I went to move the top. I don't have any idea which bolts they were under. If anyone does this make sure you note the placement of the shims. Removing the top really did help the assembly though. Hopefully will get assembly done tomorrow. Merry Christmas!!


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## Fisch

I am the new guy to lumberjacks. Thanks for all your coments about the R4511 saw. I have been in the market for a new table saw and thanks to all your coments I think this is the one. Seems to be great for the price. 499.00 at HD. Will be picking it up probley tomorrow. YEA YEA. HELP ME OBY WON YOUR MY ONLY HOPE !!! STOP ME BEFORE IT'S TO LATE. FISCH….........


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## PurpLev

but it is ALREADY too late… enjoy your new saws Gary and Fisch. I keep saying that, but it's true- it IS a terrific saw for this price range. I have yet to see another saw which made me second guess my choice.


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## Fisch

Hear goes. On my way down to HD to pickup my new table saw. will be poasting more coments soon. May need more info on assembly,who knows !!!!! FISCH Thanks for the info LJ's


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## Fisch

BUMMER !!!!! THEY SOLD IT OUT FROM UNDER ME. NOW i HAVE TO WAIT TILL MONDAY. BOO HOO,BOOHOO. HELP ME OBI WAN. I LOST MY SCHWARTZ !!!! BI THE WAY HAS ANYBODY USED THE BLACK TOE CNC ROUTER OR HAD ANY CONTACT WITH ONE ?.........FISCH…......


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## cliffton

The day i bought mine i payed for mine over the phone to make sure they couldn't sell it. when i called at 9 am they had six. when i went to pick it up at 2 pm the only one left was the display and mine! I was talking to the tool manager while waiting for the six helpers to load it in my xterra and he told me that he has never seen anything like it. they sold meh ok before they got cancelled but now that they are discontinued they cant keep em around.


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## Fisch

NOW YOU GOY ME SPOOKED, I CHECKED THE WEB AND I CAN NOT FIND THE REASON WHY THIS SAW HAS BEEN DISCONTINUED. I HOPE THIS IS NOT A BAD SINE. I REALY LIKE WHAT I HAVE HEARD ABOUT THIS SAW. THE GRANITE TOP REALY SOLD ME. ANYBODY KNOW THE REAL REASON FOR IT BEEING DISCONTINUED? I WOULD REALY LIKE TO KNOW BEFORE I PURCHASE IT. DON'T WANT A SAW I CAN'T GET PARTS FOR.
GUIED ME TO THE TRUTH 'O' GERAT FELLOW LUMBER JOCKS !!!!
----FISCH----


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## PurpLev

cliffton - isn't the human psyche an interesting thing? make it available in the market, and people will 'wait till the need arises, but take it off - and all of a sudden - everyone's need is NOW.

Fisch - the saw is being discontinued because of shipping costs - the saw is heavy at ~400lbs, and it just isn't worth paying for all these shipping costs when the saw itself sells for so little. rumor has it that Ridgid is replacing it with a Cast Iron top saw, but no word yet on the specs of that saw, whether it'll be 4511 comparable, or a contractor style saw again (like their previous 3650, and 3660 models).

Ridgid does have Lifetime warranty, and the 4511 IS a terrific saw. I would say - if you can fine one - get it.


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## dlux

FYI, I live in Pearland TX (just south of downtown Houston) and there's an R4511 still in the box. I'm going to be in another part of Houston today as well so I'll stop by an HD or two and see if there are any there too.

I thought about buying the one here and then flipping it next year, but I don't have a spare $499 laying around.


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## BigG

By all means get on of these if you can still find one lurking around somewhere! FYI Sears has their new granite hybrid on sale for about $800. I've looked at a few times and if I didn't have the 4511 I would probably go for it. All the features of the 4511 and an upgrade to some.


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## PurpLev

the only thing nice about the craftsman is the riving knive design which is like the Bosch 4100, and new Unisaw (and the portable ridgid) where you can raise/lower it to act like a blade guard+prawls or low profile without having to take it out and replace it with another.

other than that - it's half the weight of the 4511 (200 something lbs) and the fence has been getting mediocre reviews. I still think the 4511 is superior. but I guess I'm not objective.


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## PTDCat

Got my self a belated Christmas present to replace my old Ridgid R4510. Glad I read these postings and the review. Sure made it easier plugging things together.

No problem with alignments. (Blade/Miter Gauge groove was off by a 32nds but easy to adjust the top to fix it.) Rip fence rides nicely on the two piece rail but might get replaced later on with a one piece with more capacity. One word of caution, when the blade is raised to the highest point you can get it to, the belt and wheel on the arbor rubs on the underside of the table and will quickly cause you some problems if you're not careful. The cut under the table at this point could stand to be a little deeper to allow proper clearance. (Not something I can say is a killer for me, just have to pay attention at set up time.)

Laid into some hard maple for a project and it cut like butter right out of the gate. Nice and clean, no burns or saw marks.

I have to make some zero clearance inserts ASAP and like the idea of making up some extra riving knives as there are many times, with my old saw, I find the guard likes to collect dust on the shelf while I'm doing something without it on the saw.


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## dlux

Hey Purp, I haven't seen one of the Craftsman saws in person, but would it be possible to get the riving set up off a Craftsman saw and make it work on 4511 somehow? hhmmmmmm


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## Fisch

OK LUMBERJOCKS, HELP ME OUT HEAR,THIS MAY SOUND DUMB BUT WHAT IS THE BENAFIT OF ZERO CLEARANCE INSERTS AND HOW DO YA MAKE EM ? BEST MATERIEL ETC.----ALSO THE SAME QUESTION ABOUT THE RIVING KNIVES ? MY 90 YEAR OLD CRAFTSMAN NEVER HAD ONE.
"O" SPEEK TO ME YEE WIZE LJ'S

---------FISCH--------


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## PurpLev

congrats *PRDCat*. that is interesting about the arbor rubbing the saw when blade is at full height. never noticed it -but then again, I don't think I ever used the saw with the blade at full height. something to keep in mind though.

*dlux* - I was thinking about taking the riving knive off of a Bosch 4100, but the riving knife and blade guard assembly was just too expensive (replacement parts) so I dropped the idea. I'm pretty sure the riving knive off of a craftsman can be made to work on the ridgid with little work. also the riving knive for the Unisaw is ~20-30, and also can probably be made to work… just dont have time to deal with this now, and my saw - well - it's working just fine. however - worth the try.

*Fisch* - to make it short - zero clearance insert is a throat insert that is put on the saw with no opening. you make the opening by raising the blade through it which in turn creates an opening in the throat insert that is JUST what the blade needs to spin - it has zero clearance on each side of the blade. this helps in several ways:

1. thin strips/small pieces cannot fall into the throat opening and into the blade and be kicked back at you since there IS NO such opening.
2. the cuts are cleaner because the part you are working on has full support underneath it - no/less tearouts.
3. better dust collection in the cabinet since there is a better enclosed cabinet with less air espacing (less openings).

A Riving knife is a splitter that sits behind the blade and makes sure the work piece doesnt pinch the blade and get kicked back at you. unlike a splitter which is static, a riving knife moves up and down with the blade and ALWAYS stays RIGHT BEHIND the blade which prevents kick back better than a regular splitter.

OK.. so it wasn't made short, but that's as short as I can do it without sacrificing information. hopes this makes more sense now. see the pics above for those 2. or google it.


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## Fisch

THANK'S PULPLEV, BIG HELP, ALSO FOUND A VIDEO ON HOW TO MAKE THE INSERTS.WORKS GREAT !!!

----------FISCH--------


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## glassyeyes

Fisch, I ordered the riving knives from Steel City, off the SC35900 series saws. The thicker (3.0mm) one had to be sanded on the right side a little to fit the holder. Just don't mention you have a Ridgid. Part # SC10150 for the 2.5 mm knife, SC10151 for the 3.0 mm Phone # to order Steel City parts: 1-877-724-8665


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## Fisch

Thank's Glassyeyes, I will look into that when I get my saw and get it put together. hopefully tomorrow if HD keeps thear word !!!! LOL LOL LOL
-------Fisch--------


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## glassyeyes

*IF YOU LIVE IN THE VIRGINIA SUBURBS OF DC-the Sterling store still has TWO R4511 saws in stock-NOT on display, on clearance at $500*.


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## Fisch

Thanks man, picked one up a few days ago. Just started assembly last night. Took 3 hrs. just get it out of my suv.. All you LJ'S ARE RIGHT the assembly instructions leave a lot to be desired. All the coments on this saw have been a great help.
---------FISCH--------


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## stumblehome

Thanks for posting all the detailed info on this saw. Local HD dropped the price to $299 and I went for it. A Milwaukee tool rep wandering around said he had spent 8 hrs. assembling one. An HD manager said they have a "parts saw" in case something doesn't line up-nice to know, but a warning. I'm blowing in 11" of cellulose in the walls of my new house tomorrow. In a few days I'll start assembly and will be back to review all your tips and experience.


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## PurpLev

you're welcome, glad it helped.

8 hours to to assemble the TS? thats a bit excessive I would say. the manuals are horrible - but not THAT horrible. I wouldn't worry much about it if I were you, and for 299…. thats just awesome!


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## rance

Nice writeup, very helpful.


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## JerrySats

Purp

Excellent review on the TS , it will come in handie when I put my saw together . I snatched one up today at HD for $299 . I noticed on your ZCI you didn't use the hold down screws like in the original throat plate , any problems going this route ?

Thanks again for the great review 
Jerry


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## PurpLev

you're welcome folks.

*Jerry* - absolutely no problems with the ZCI. when I cut the slot for it I did cut it all the way up, so that the blade won't accidently catch on the back of the ZCI while in use. however - this is something that I cannot recommend others to do. for safety reasons - you really should put that screw in the back… now that you mentioned it, I probably should do the same, even if it's just to avoid old uncle Murphy and his laws from visiting me anytime soon. especially with a ZCI where the blade is pretty much at the edge of the insert continuously.

thanks for the heads up.


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## 10Feettall

Thanks for the great tips - just picked one up. If the temps would just rise abit here in Minnesota, I'd like to get started this weekend.


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## evause

I'm a newbie to both the forum and woodworking. I recently purchased the Ryobi BTS21 as a starter TS. During setup, I realized it had a defective bevel lock. I took it to HD (orlando) for one of the hardware guys to look at. He confirmed it was bad and pointed out the R4511 to me… said it just went on clearance for $299. He said it would be a much better starter TS for me, especially at only +$30 more than my soon to be returned BTS21. Fearing the last one would be taken, i bought it.

I like this review - thank you very much, everyone for their input. Last night, after reading this (and other reviews) I officially boxed up and returned my defective saw, picked up the R4511. Thanks Again.


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## PurpLev

hope to see your sawdust projects coming up soon 10Feettall and evause. this is by far a better saw than the ryobi one… I don't even consider this one a "starter saw". unless you go into full production 24/7 7 days a week, this one may very be your last saw.

as for my last comment about putting in the screws in the ZCI in fear of the blade kicking it up - I forgot that I have the riving knife behind the blade which protects the ZCI from being in the way of the blade. obviously, I havent been in the shop much lately


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## Diamondback

Hi evause! Glad to hear you made the switch to the R4511. I agree in that it is an absolutely fantastic table saw for the price. You will be more than happy with it. I still find this saw comparable for ones costing three times as much or more. Enjoy!!


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## evause

Thanks again all. As soon as I get it put together, and get something (small) started, I'll post more.


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## rengelking

My wife and I just finished putting one of these together thanks to a tip from evause. This saw is not for the timid or the weak. It took me over one hour just to unpack it. It took another 3 hours for my wife and I to put it together half-way, and that includes having me and her son lift it onto the legs, clearly a 3 person job (although it says 2 in the manual, maybe 2 Paul Bunyans). This saw is HEAVY, the instructions are LACKING. It seems like a really good deal, especially with the built-in theft protection (no one is ever going to be able to steal it, it's TOO heavy).... I turned it on and it spins, yeah! I hope it does the job, need to build some cabinets… it is being discounted/on clearance by Home Depot, clearly because it is a BEAST. I'm just glad I didn't get a hernia putting it together.


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## evause

I just got the saw together - with the help of this review and rengelking. Thanks again everyone! This thing is a beast - but awesome so far (1 cut)


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## nam69

I just bought the 4511 last week for $299. They were going fast at the HDs around here in Connecticut. I was a little warry because of the 50% price drop but HD seemed to be selling a number of items at significant reductions.

I was almost sold an assembeled floor modle but noticed the power cord was cut. An expericenced employee walking by said that the saws cord was cut by the manufacturer's rep because it was an older saw that had a faulty arbor. Don't buy a saw with a cut cord. Newer saws have stickers on the box saying that the arbor has been inspected.

I am currently assemebling the saw. Thanks for the hints on the hardware packs being keyed to the part manual and not the operators manual. Also the tip on installing the dust chute before assembling the mobile base to the legs is essential. My chute came with the rubber gasket attached, however it extended under the legs which would have prevented a good seal to the saw. The gasket needs to be cut back a bit.

I need to wait for my sons help so we can lift the saw onto the base.

Your review helped me decide to buy the saw and has been helpful on assembly. Thanks


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## PurpLev

congrats to all you guys that got the saw for 299… that's pretty ridiculous  and they now come with rubber gaskets??!? damn, I need to get me another one.

glad I could have helped.

can someone with the newer saws post anything about any gaskets or sealers that they might have added for dust collection in the cabinet? I'm curious if they have added anything since the earlier production lines that would be a good upgrade. thanks in advance.


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## yuri

Mine came with the rubber gaskets, but they do not do any good, because they are not thick enuogh to completely seal the split. Did anybody try to seal it with some sealer?


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## mikeb59

I am new to Lumberjocks and would like to thank everyone for their reviews, posts & opinions. I poured over all of them and made several trips to the HD to look the saw over before making a purchase. My wife purchased the R4511 for me on Dec. 31 for 499.00 as a retirement gift. Once again after reading some of the posts about the drop in price; today I also went back to HD and was refunded the difference. I am so happy to have gotten this saw for 299.00. (thanks to this site)!


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## klawman

I picked up an R4511 a few days ago and have been setting a record for the longest set up time. Mainly have no time to spend on it and no one around to help lift the thing. (PurpLev's tip on installing the dust chute before intalling the HercuLift was invaluable.) I am now ready to lift the saw of the bottom of the steel cage and onto the legs, but trying to figure out the best way as my son isn't all that strong. I have thought of two things that I would like to run by you.

The first is lifting the saw and steel cage base incrementally by using a dolly as a lever. The saw is on base of the steel cage which is bolted to two skids. I use a dolly as a lever to lift each skid one at a time. I slide a 2X4 under the skid and perpindicular to the skid. I then do the other side. (These are perpendicular to the skids.) I then lift the first pair of 2×4s (one at a time) and slide one end of a third 2x under one end of the first. The other end of the the 3rd 2x then is slid under the end of the second. I repeat this with a 4th 2x under the other two ends of 2xs 1 and 2. (These are perpendicular to the first two 2×4s and parallel to the skids.) I do this with several 4' sections of 2×4s until the bottom of the saw is approximately level with the top of the legs. (All 2xs are laid on the widest dimension to prevent rolling and all are layed about 6' inside of the outer perimeter of the base of the steel cage.) When the bottom of the saw is roughly even with the top of the leg assembly, my son and I inch it over onto the legs. (My daughter holds the leg assembly to keep it form moving.)

I have been considering removing the granite saw top, but don't want to mess with it if it isn't necessary. It is just one mor thing that can go wrong, such as the fellow who's shims fell on the ground. I am also thiking it makes a good hand hold.

(If you are wondering how I got it home, I paid for delivery and got it dropped just inside my garage.)

Your comments would be appreciated.


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## Timbo

Klawman, The top is held on with just four screws and you will need to loosen them anyway to adjust during setup, so I think you should take it off, lay out some cardboard and flip the saw over to put the legs on. Provided the motor packing is still in place, if not put it back in first.


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## PurpLev

klawman, I'll second Tim's idea. even if you don't want to take the top off thats ok. just carefully tilt the table saw cabinet onto it's back on some cardboard - careful not to scratch it while at it then when it's on it's side on the crate, you can install the mobile base like this:








and then lift it back up, this time around onto it's mobile base and on the floor. make sure the mobile base is in a locked position so that it doesn't start running away from you


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## klawman

*Timbo & Purplev: * Thanks. I didn't realize there was so little to removal of the top. Given that they have to be loosened for adjustments, I will definitely remove it, but will watch out for the location of any shims so as to avoid the hassle that *Garyb6* went through. Judging from the weight of the wings, that will take a load off the top. The packing around the motor is still in place and I will lay out some of the 2×4s and cardboard to protect the saw.

Someone else wrote that there wife let them get their R4511 as a retirement gift. That is pretty much the same thing here. I am pretty excited since this is replacing, as others did, an 18 year old Craftsman 10" bench saw.

*On discounts. * I just happened to have to go to the HD on July 16 to get a foot of molding for some painting stretchers, and they had just they put two R4511s out in boxes. I came back as soon as I could that evening and bought one. The other was gone the next day. I got one at the $299 close out price. By having my wife open a credit card account, we got another $25 off and, as we spent over $250 0r $300, there are no payments and no interest for 6 months. One other thing that you can do, which I didn't, is HD honors discount coupons for Lowe's. I had one, but it expired two weeks earlier and didn't want to take the time getting a new one. You can get one online from Lowe's or pay $3 or $5 to buy onr off the net (from someone who simply requests Lowes to email one to you. (I was right and had I waited to get the coupon, the saw would have been gone.)


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## Necro

That's true about the r4511 saws with the cord cut off, they did it to the display models that had the faulty arbor. They also put yellow and black stickers on them with the text of "Not working display, not for sale".
Get it if they will sell it to you as Ridgid will come to your house to replace it, free of charge.

The cord is easy to replace or better yet upgrade to 240v while you are at it.


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## woodspyder

I set mine up by myself, I laid the saw on it's back resting the back edge of the granite on two 2×4s. Raised the bottom of the base onto a stack of scraps, Attached the leg/lift assembly to the base, removed the scraps under the base, and stood the saw up.


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## klawman

Thanks, *woodspyder*. I did something like that yesterday. After removing the granite top, ( I did have a couple of shims in each of the two spots nearest the front. I set them aside to install in the same spot) it was a lot lighter. Laid it across a couple of scrap sections of 6×6 fence post by myslef. Will lift it up today and should soon have it humming.

One thing I believe I am curious about is the warning not to intall the dust chute unless you have a 4 inch collection system. What is the *risk*? Is it that dust would accumulate inside the machine and possibly cause a fire. I plan to clean it out with a shop vac after ever use or keep it running during periods of prolonged use.


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## PurpLev

congrats guys. sounds like you did good!

klawman- the risk is as you stated, that the cabinet can be overfilled with dust to the point the it can get in the motor, in the arbor and into the spinning blade and be spat back at you in a stream, or cause malfunction with the motor/shaft/gears.

even with 4" DC theres quite a bit of dust accumulation in the cabinet, although everything in the line of the DC port gets sucked away.

just make sure you keep an eye on that.


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## klawman

*PurpLev: *Thanks for confirming the risk of dust accumulation. Just kindof finished setting mine up and it hums. Sweet. I say kind of because I have to realign the table to the blade, as I took the top off. (Possibly needed alignment, anyway. Not sure if the fence is true. Have to go back and read your review and others comments on it well as make a face for the fence.

While levelling the wings, I may have noticed something. Either the surface of the table has minute low spots or the cheapo "aluminum" square manufactured by Empire isn't quite true.


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## PurpLev

*klawman*: the table may indeed have low spots. mine has one on each extreme edge (leftmost and rightmost) I would recommend to check that against some feeler gauges to see if it's within accepted tolerances, or if a replacement top might be required (which Ridgid will replace)


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## klawman

Thanks, PurpLev. I will get some feeler gauges and check the top in the next few days. Meanwhile, I also checked it with a steel square and it looks like it will depend on what is acceptable. It isn't all that much, but even my old aluminum craftsmand bench saw had a flat table.


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## klawman

I am having a B#$%^ of a time trying to square my top to the blade. There seems to be a problem with the alignment of the holes for the four bolts securing the top to the cabinet. Even when the front left is rotated as far as it will go to the left and the back right is as far as it will go to the right, the front of the blade is about 1/16" nearer to the right miter track than is the back of the blade (measuring from the sidt of the same tooth). Has anyone had similar problems to which they found a solution?


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## yuri

klawman,
I could not align my table to the saw blade too. I tried hard but in my particular saw right position was out of alignment range. I got top off my saw (be careful with shimming, see earlier discussion) and using round file expanded bolt holes in right direction. In my situation something like 1/16" - 1/8" was enough. Once I put top back I completed alignment with no issues.


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## klawman

*yuri*, That sounds like what I may have to do. I can get the saw to within 1/16th of parallel as is. Am leaving for HD to pick up some plumbers putty (replacing garbage disposel), and will get a round file. (I am going to check and see if my Dremel can do the job.) Thanks for the suggestion. I think it is a good one and feel more confident messing with the holes now that I know someone else has had the same problem. If two of us had it, you can bet that plenty of others had the same issue.

On shimming, I was aware of Garyb6's dillema when I tool my top off. They were in place and I set them aside taped to a piece of paper. Unfortunatlely I only made a mental note of their location. I think I have it right, but aren't sure. The memory aint too good anymore, if it ever was.


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## klawman

In addition to yuri, another LumberJock messaged me that they had the same alignment problem, which they cured by slightly drilling out the holes. I am going to try filing as I don't wish to remove any more material from the frame than I must. First, I am going to place a call to Ridgid to see what they have to say about it.


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## PurpLev

I had something similar but perhaps not that this extent.

when I aligned the table to the blade, I wasn't able to move the front of the table far enough to the left, but I was able to move the back of the table far enough to the right to complement the alignment.


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## klawman

Unfortunately, *PurpLev*, nothing can be moved without exacerbating the problem. I am wondering if my caabinet is out of square/sprung, as the top rocks a bit when the bolts are loosened. That goes away with tightening, but I wonder if the granite is being overly stressed.


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## PurpLev

klawman - that should be the case… thats what the shims are for, your top should rest on the cabinet without moving. I would shim it to eliminate that play. or contact Ridgid as there might be a couple of mfg issues with your cabinet/top alignment.


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## klawman

Got the top resting flat. One of the set of shims was in the wrong spot. Still cannot get the blade any better than about 1/16 of true. Called Rigid. Woman said I shouldn't have to file or drill out the holes. She asked if another shim might fix it. That is the reason that some saws have shims. I am to install them on the side opposite of the direction I want to move the table top. If the shimming doesn't do the trick, it may have to be returned. There is no other fix. Menwhile, I told her I am going to try moving the shims that came with it to different spots. Didn't I see some posts about techs coming out to service these under warranty?


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## PurpLev

they sent techs out to service the saws under the recent recall notice. other than that most things with the saw do not require a certified tech to so, so they'll probably send you a missing part, and have you do it. unless you sort a deal with HD for a replacement of the whole saw.

the shims raise and lower the top, but don't move it left- right so I doubt that can make such a difference that will fix your parallelism issue. I would probably try to file the holes slightly to accommodate for that difference - file half of the diff on one hole, and the other half on the opposing hole so that you'll be filing the least amount of material. it shouldnt be that much.

but before filing - I would personally try to make it work without having to file anything.


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## JerrySats

Klawman 
Try visiting the Rigid Forums , you may find more information due to the larger number of Rigid Owners there .


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## klawman

*PurpLev*. My thinking is the same as yours. I don't see what the tek person is thinking. Moving shims around has no effect on the alignment of the top to the blade. I am going to talk to the people at the HD where I got it.

*JerryS*. I will take a look at the forums Thanks.

Went up to the HD and talked to someone I never saw before. He was familiar with what I was talking about. Tomorrow, they are sending a guy with a truck to pick it up, assemble it, and bring it back. I just have to help him load and unload onto the HD rental truck. (I wanted to just have them take a look at this and tell me if I should file it out, They want to make sure everything is allright with it. If the tech says to file it out, I will do it and keep the saw here. I prefer assemblying it and not having to worry about someone over tightening a bolt with a pneumatic wrench.)


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## NewPilgrim

Hello folks,

I just purchased this saw two weeks ago but I cannot find my instruction manual. Do you know where I can download one off the web? Been searching for an hour to no avail. RIDGID's site does not have the 4511 manual either. I emailed them but I just wanted to see if you folks knew where I can quickly get a hold of the manual.

Thanks for your time and help.

-Newbie


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## PurpLev

NewPilgrim.

I scanned the manual,and uploaded it as PDF here:

http://woodwork.homeip.net/Ridgid_R4511_UM.pdf


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## NewPilgrim

Oh man, PurpLev! Thank you so much, thank you, thank you. I appreciate your time and help. This is great!

-NewPilgrim


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## basboy

PurpLev, thanks so much for this well done review on the ridgid r4511. I had been watching CL every day for six months and had discovered this LJ site when searching for reviews of different saws from CL. While reading this I came upon the news that HD was closing out the 4511 at 299.00 and I immediately started calling local stores, unfortunately none had one in s. ga. or n. fla.. I started working stores in Atl and found one in Sandy Springs .I paid for it and had a will call for the tool and picked it up last week. After the 200 mile ride there I also treated myself to a trip to Highland wood working shop. A person has to be careful in there, lots of cool stuff.
I started with a new but broken dw miter saw from loews, my nephew gave me a bt3000 missing the miter table and then I bought a really old craftsman table saw 40by 27 with induction motor and belt it was probably made back when Moby Dick was a minnow. Like Captain Kirk , I needed more power but Scotty was un able to get me to even warp 6. I am now at warp 7 and the motor is out of the way plus I have the ease of moving with the hurculift. this a good saw for me and it is beautiful, brand new with a warranty . I have a lot of long leaf yellow pine with much of it being lighter knot. It is hard as woodpecker lips and this saw is strong slicing thru.I am at peace with this saw and now I am thinking about upgrading the 40 year old 12 inch craftsman band saw i cut cabriole legs with, here again I feel the need for more power!
remember, poor folks have poor ways. M Choate


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## PurpLev

ha basboy - comments like yours makes me glad I posted the review. glad I was some help. this saw really does work like you describe it. I had the same experience in discovering the new levels of power and precision with it. now if we could only jig it up so that it can beam us up…. that would be great!


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## PTDCat

Quick fix for the screws holding the motor cover. Epoxied two rare earth magnets to the cover where the screws were and then added a low cost drawer pull handle to the edge. Works like a charm and makes for easy access for cleaning out the junk the vacuum system misses.

Also, good suggestion sealing the rock top. Keeps stains and the like down. But I do have a question about lubing the miter gauge and the two tracks. I used Johnson's paste wax on my old metal top. What's ya'll using on this rock top?


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## PurpLev

I don't really worry about the motor cover…

as for the miter slots and top - I use Johnson's paste wax. I actually only used it once when I bought the saw - should probably rebuff it sometime.


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## ziflin

For anyone else wondering, there are no more of these within 100miles of Raleigh, NC. I emailed Ridgid to see if they were going to release a new model and the response was just:

There will be a newer model at a later date.

Best regards,

Tim Beasley
Consumer Response
One World Technologies, Inc. 
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Not a very useful response. I suppose I'll be going with another brand since Ridgid seems to not have anything available.


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## klawman

It seems that the R4511 is still being sold in Canada for $799. http://www.homedepot.ca/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CatalogSearchResultView?D=913199&Ntt=913199&catalogId=10051&langId=-15&storeId=10051&Dx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntx=mode+matchall&recN=0&N=0&Ntk=P_PartNumber&eid=ShopToIt&utm_source=ShopToIt&utm_medium=Affiliate&utm_campaign=913199


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## dlux

Sears has finally put the parts list online for the 22116 (their version of the 4511). I thought this might be helpful in case we all need some parts later. I'm very interested in the riving knives since they're so cheap. Here's the link:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=351.221160

There is also some discussion on the Rigid forum about 22116 compared to the 4511:
http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/showthread.php?p=277354

Interesting….


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## klawman

I may have this all wrong, but as an accredited idiot that almost once lost half a finger to kickback, I suggest you look beyond whether a particular riving knife will "fit" the R4511. Just, if not more, important than whether if fits the saw is whether it fits the "blade." From the little reading I have done, I believe it is important that the thickness of a knife is matched to the blade and by "matched" I mean that the riving knife is thicker than the "body" of a particular blade but thinner than its "kerf". For better information, see:
http://www.dewalt.com/DWAssets/english/pdf/products/riving_knife_selection.pdf


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## klawman

*Blade selection:*

I am replacing the standard blade and will probably go with a Woodworker II 40 tooth thin kerf, but have seen where *knottscott *elsewhere suggests the 30 tooth blade. (I hope to use the one GP blade for everything, but will probably keep the standard blade around for ripping junk.)

*Knottscott*'s idea is that the 30T is better for low powered saws as the larger gullets reduce strain when ripping and the quality cut is not much less than the 40. What do you think of going with a 30 instead of the 40?

Also, I see that *Timbo *got a better quality cut using a stiffener for ripping with a full kerf WW2. (I believe I also saw where *Purplev* has a full kerf WW2.) Most everything I have seen posted is to the effect that no difference is seen even when one is used with a thin kerf blade, for which Forrrest "highly reccomends" the use of a stiffener.

I would appreciate the thoughts of any of you, as I am only getting into this carpentry stuff. 30T or 40, stiffener or not. Thanks.


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## shimster

Can't find one in stock in any HD between Mystic, CT & Boston, MA. Keeping my fingers crossed.


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## PurpLev

*klawman* - you are correct. the riving knife has to match the blade, thats why there are thick and thin keft riving knives to match the compatible blades that are currently in the market. as for blade selection. from what I read online, it seems that today's thin kerf blades are stiff enough to be equal in performance to full kerf blades, and since they are lighter the saw's motor has an easier time turning them. personally I chose a full kerf blade as I find that the extra mass of the blade help keep it in motion, and makes it a bit more stiff and strong to go through lumber. but that's just me.

*shimster* - that reminds me that when the saw came out to the market - it was just as hard to find in the stores. in fact, some stores had inventory that even the employees didn't know about. I had to go to the store and argue and convince the tool people that they actually DO have 2 of those in stock. which they did. they didn't even know how to look it up, I got the HD SKU from online forums and used the SKU to help the HD people track down the boxes.

however nowadays with the saw being discontinued its a different story. if you can find one , it's worth its weight in gold in my opinion. if not- there should be a replacement saw coming out sometime probably this or next year.


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## rance

PurpLev,

> I read online, it seems that today's thin kerf blades are stiff enough to be equal in performance to full kerf blades, and since they are lighter the saw's motor has an easier time turning them.

Yes, mass affects it, but also realize that a TK blade is not taking as big of a bite as a FK. TK blades w/stiffener are sometimes recommended for some of the underpowered saws for that very reason.

Many things affect the cut… height of the blade, thickness of the wood, type of wood, moisture content, speed you are pushing it through the cut, alignment of the blade. It's a balance of all of these, and more.

Thanks for the review.  Mine's still in the box.  Has been for over a month now.


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## shimster

Found one this morning in Quincy after calling 30 stores. Just like you stated PurpLev, I had to convince the guy that they had one in stock, providing him the SKU. Mine is in the box as well, in the back of my SUV in downtown Boston. I figure if thieves can carry it, they deserve it. Now, all i have to do is excavate my basement 24", and pour a slab. That's what weekends are for, right? I don't mean to gloat, but thanks a million for these R4511 posts. I used a Lowes coupon as well and picked the monster up (not literally) for $269. Thanks again.


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## botanist

Great review and a real help when I set up my own saw! I've seen one person who mounted a Biesemeyer fence to their saw, which seems like a great idea. It terms of the motor cover screws, I was thinking about replacing them with a couple of rare earth magnets that shouldn't come loose when the saw is operating.

Also a great help for anyone consider with any table saw: using a shop crane to manipulate it during assembly.


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## PurpLev

*botanist*. you're welcome. as for upgrading the saw- I had so many ideas to upgrade it with - better fence, quick release locks for the motor cover…. and the list goes on. aside from the fence faces, and the zci which are a must - I have yet to do anything to it, and in a way, don't feel the need for it anymore. the fence once setup is perfectly fine, and lets face it - how many times are you planning on opening the motor cover that you REALLY need a quick release there? (since I put the saw together -I have never opened it yet)

Enjoy your new saw!


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## kcrandy

Just saw the Ridgid R4511 for sale at my KC HD for $399. Any updates on the saw and that price?


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## PurpLev

word is that HD is bringing that saw back. some HD has been noted to have ordered several of those lately. and have them in stock.


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## klawman

The new saw, the r4512, isn't in the hd stores but can be seen online. A thread on it is found here: http://lumberjocks.com/topics/18770

As of a couple of days ago, there were a half dozen factory refurbished r4511s available on ebay for around $450.

It looks like I finally got my r511's blade parallel to the mitre gauge slot. Mine was off more than those who were able to align their saw by enlargin the allen head bolt holes in the top of the cabinet. (I am almost positive that my trunnion was installed with the front nearly 1/8" to far to the left.) Even when those holes were cut more than enough to allow alignent, it still could not be alilnged. It turned out that the thick washers were preventing the twp back top screws from being shifted far enough to the right. Grind a flat spot about 1/16 into one side solved the problem (a sizew smaller washer may have done the trick, if it was thick enough or thin ones were stacked) and it is set within .001" of parallel.

Purplev. I finally ordered a good blade. The Thin Kerf WWII 40 tooth.

Next I need to get a zero clearance insert and fence face like purplev's.


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## PurpLev

congratulations klawman, glad you have it worked out. FWIW, I'm not too excited about the new 4512. seeing them now I'm real glad I got the 4511 - its a power horse for it's category, and I don't have to worry about rust (I have high humidity here).

definitely setup a ZCI - even if it's MDF (that's what I used on my prev saw, and it worked great) it really adds to the safety and the cut quality. the fence faces also help a lot - and you'd want to use a smooth frictionless material for those.


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## klawman

PurpLev, I am with you 100% on the r4512, as well as loving the r4511 for my personal use. I am not sure if I would pick it if I was a full time carpenter.

BTW, I love safety, having alomost lost a finger to kickback years ago on a cheap benchtop saw. A primary reason for getting the 4511.

I thought not to further discuss the merits on the r512, and leave it to that other thread dedicated to it.


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## kenstir

Bought the R4511 partially on the strength and quality of this review. Many thanks! I wish I had read carefully the part about installing the dust hood before the hurc-u-lift. I did not become obsessed with dust control until after the whole thing was assembled, and not having 3 friends handy to lift, I sawed the dust port in half down the middle and assembled with duct tape. The tape is not a problem; there are holes everywhere in this cabinet.

Anyone have suggestions for improving dust collection? I am considering closing up all the other holes (on top of motor cover, handwheel slot, etc) but am not sure whether this will make things better or worse. I have a used JET DC-1100C I'm attaching only to the saw. I am willing to do some experimentation and post back but wanted to ask for the collective wisdom first.


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## PurpLev

kenstir - glad to hear this!

I have the same DC. I thought about closing things up, but just don't have the time to deal with it. I think the more important things to seal are t he seams at the bottom - you still want to leave some openings so as not to create too much vacuum inside the cabinet. also a zero clearance inserts make a big difference.


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## klawman

*Kenstir: * I tried to fine a post by someone who did a bang up job on dust control. Perhaps overkill. This thread may help. http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25089 I think the magnetic strip over the tilt slot may be the most productive modification. PurLev's suggested zero clearance insert is a good idea even without factoting in the dust control benefit. Has anyone tried clear silicone caulk and/or gqsket material between the bottom of the cabinet and the top of the plastic dust chute. One possibility I haven't seen mentioned is sealing the minute gap between bottom of the table and the top of the cabinet - after everyting is aligned - with a bit of silicone caulk along the outside.


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## klawman

PurpLev: I am still having trouble aligning my table to my blade and don't want to enlarbe the table bolt holes in the cabinet. Can you tell me how to adjust the trunnion so as to rotate the blade. I only need to move it enough so as to move the rear of the blade very little. .015" would work but .025" would be sweet.

Some posted it was hell. I think they losened too much at once. I am thinking I only need to barely losen the bolts of one trunnion and tap one bolt enough to move it an infintismal amount. Tighten them and do the same to the opposing set.

Do I need to worry about getting anuthing in the worm gears or another part of the mech out of kilter?

(Originally you suggested adjusting the trunnions when I posted I was going to enlarge the holes. Unfortunately, I didn't see your post until after I did it. Now I think it is time to try that.) TIA for whatever you can offer.


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## PurpLev

klawman - I'm sorry to hear you have such a large misalignment. If it was me - I'd talk to Ridgid/HD to get it resolved with a replacement as I don't really like the thought of messing with the trunnions or worm gear at all. A small misalignment with the worm gear - and that mechanism may fail. however, given that this may not be a possibility at this point in time, I don't know if I have any better suggestions. I would have to take the table top off, and try to figure out how what parts would be best to try and rotate to make that alignment possible - bottom line, there are 3 components here - the trunnions with their 4 points of connection, the cabinet, and the top. my guess is that I would try to file the holes in the cabinet first to make this work - from what it sounds, the misalignment is small - so you don't really have to take off that much material.

could you post some pictures of the cabinet/trunnions with the top off? hole sizes and all? it's hard to give you a proper suggestion to your specific case, without actually seeing what we're dealing with here. a theoretical suggestion may not be fitting for your case…


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## klawman

*PurpLev* - Thanks, again. It was a matter of taking a bit more off of one of the washers that was hitting up against the exterior wall of the cabinet and perhaps 1/32 more at the lower edge of a cabinet bolt hole. It is now dead on with the bolts snuugged down (oly snug because now I have to shim the top so as to align the top parralel to the shaft of the arbor, if that is what the 45 degree alignmenet if for.) Actually, I can now even go a few thousands past parallel to the blade, which is the way I wanted it in case for some reason I have to move in that direction down the road and I don't want to have to take the top off to true it up.


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## klawman

Got theh top aligned within .001" to both a vertical and 45 degree blade using instructions found at http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25836 .

To align mine to the 45 degree blade, I also had to shim the left rear bolt .015" (Mine is one with a top that was higher in the rear and per the above intructions should only have required shims for the tow front bolts. I believe mine required me to shim the left rear because of some manufacturing flaw. (For some reason I had to enlarge my bolts holes in order to align the top to the verical blade and I wonder if that was due to the same suspected manufacturing flaw. Whatever, it is now next to dead on.

Thanks all for their help


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## PurpLev

thats good news *klawman*! glad you're 'there'. from here on its nothing but simply using the saw for what it's meant to do. Enjoy! (I enjoy mine)


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## rupert

hey guys, I had the problem of blade to table top alignment, and was able to fix it by loosening the 90 and 45 degree set screws that are set in the table top. after loosening these set screws, you should be able to align your table top to blade. then re tighten the 90 and 45 degree set screws and you should be all good!!


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## klawman

rupert,

The 90 can interfere with setting since its bottom wants to pivot on top of the trunnion mechanism. While the tech at One World insinsts it be set before aligning the top, I found it best to loosen it. Some saws are so far off for some reason (holes in top possibly of center, holes for bolts to pass throuogh off, or shifted trunnion?) they cannot be aligned without either losening and moving the trunnion or reamking out the wholes for the tops hold down bolts.


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## RockneLaw

Purplev,

I started reading your review before I bought my saw more than a year ago. I just not got around to putting it together - it took me awhile, but she's together now and cutting fine. I've made the new throat plate, too. Aside from the poor, poor instructions (which you helped me navigate), I've experienced just two problems:

1) my splitter is bent. I've worked it and worked it using a vice and I just can't get it straight. Any ideas?
2) my miter gauge is really rough on the bottom - was yours? I'm worried (and quite convinced) that it will scratch the granite if I used it. I'd love to hear your ideas of a solution for this? Do you take riving knife orders


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## PurpLev

RockneLaw - thanks, and congratulations.

As for your concerns (again, I am in no way connected to Ridgid, just another happy customer in this case):
1. contact Ridgid custmer support - sounds like a defective part. not sure if you signed up for the LSA warranty when you bought the saw as it sounds like it has been a while -but they have good service regardless. this would be my first thought.
2. If the miter gauge is severely damaged - see #1 above. otherwise you could file it and sand it smooth if you have any concerns. scratching the miter slot would be nothing more than a visual PITA, but personally I'd try to avoid it.

I myself am using a 3rd party miter gauge that I had before getting the same, so am not really using the factory miter gauge (only rarely on the bandsaw) but it's not scratching anything.

And yes- I actually have 1 extra riving knife if you are interested - PM me.


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## MoshupTrail

I really like mine. I've spent some time tuning it. Yes, the fence is a bit tricky - shifting a bit as you tighten it. But it adjusts easily and I can set it dead parallel to the blade. I love the granite top. No worries about leaving a damp rag on it while in the middle of some frantic glue-up. But the really nice thing… I can use the accessories from the Steel City model. Inserts, riving knife, etc. (the blade guard that comes with this is a waste - ok, it satisfies some legal mandate probably, but anyone who works with wood regularly will have to remove it)

But it is gawd awful heavy. So heavy that I have not gone back to put in the dust collection attachment now that I have a way to use it. Initially I had no dust collection and left it off. Mistake.


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## kenstir

MoshupTrail-I made the same mistake in assembling mine without the dust collection attachment, but then I sawed the DC bin in half and reassembled it in place with Gorilla tape. Not perfect but Good Enough™.


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## toys4dad

looking at buying this saw locally. sitting in this guys garage never used it and trying to sell it. about an hour away my question is what is the max dado set it will take?

will need to check on the recall as well as a second owner


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## PurpLev

I believe it takes up to 3/4" dado (when used without the locking washer but just the nut)


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## Kachbo

Puplev and or any other Ridgid granite top table saw owner:

I need some help… I'm a newbie to the forum and am setting up my shop… Finally uncrated my Ridgid granite top table saw and went to lower the blade and tilt out 45 degrees to install the belt. When I went to raise the blade, the gear kept missing… Can you help?

Thanks,

Nick


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## JerrySats

Nick , is the gear spinning , maybe it came lose ?


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## Kachbo

Jerry,

Thanks for a quick reply… No the gear is not spinning… The teeth don't engage the worm gear… Seems they are a bit too far apart… They touch, but when turned the worm gear slips.

Nick


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## PurpLev

*Nick*, is it possible you lowered it too far and disengaged the warm gear ? can you try to assist the gear back into contact and then use the wheel to raise it back up?

if not- can you take a picture and post so that we can see what you are dealing with visually?


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## Kachbo

I can see that there is a 1/8 inch gap between the tines… I'm having trouble uploading my pic. Rigid said they would service the saw… Just need to get it to a service location. On your r4511 is the shaft eccentric ( ie adjustable?)


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