# Garage cabinets face frame & doors



## BuyoMasilla (Jun 5, 2011)

Good Evening Esteemed Lumberjocks,

I am back hoping to access your expertize and knowledge as I tackle a project in the garage. I have been working on some built in cabinets for the garage. The plans came from a DIY or Handyman online publication ( I believe this is the link http://www.familyhandyman.com/DIY-Projects/Home-Organization/Garage-Storage/installing-large-garage-cabinets/Step-By-Step) The article speaks of getting them done on a Saturday, I'm several months into them. I'm slow and then some. The plan calls for sliding door, but I will eventually get to hanging/hinged doors. I have a rail and stile router bit which I found once for a good price and figured will use some day. That day nears.

I am uploading some pictures to show my progress and pose my questions. I guess I'll be making panel doors. for the inside I plan on using 1/4 inch hardboard. The cabinets are built with 3/4" chinese birch ply and ripped 2X4 for the framework. Everything will be painted white in time. The section dividers I have "pocket holed" to help attach a face frame. I plan on getting poplar 4S (?) from HD or Lowes for the face frame and the doors stiles and rails. The bays are not all the exact same size, they approximate 42 high by 28 wide.

Here's my questions, if it were you, what dimension would you use for the face frame, where the hinges will be attached. How about for the doors stiles and rails? , and how many inexpensive (not to say cheap) hinges would each door take? and what kind of hinge will fit the inexpensive bill, do the job adequately and won't need to be mortised?

I am including some pictures of the work in progress to get you an idea of what I'm trying to complete.

As always, thanks for reading, your time and willingness to share.

Best Regards, Mario


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## LoneTreeCreations (May 27, 2010)

I'd use 2" face frames between the doors and maybe 3" to cover the top and bottom as
the bottom looks a little thicker. 3" in the rails and stiles so you have plenty of room
for the hinge cups and still have rigidity. 2 hinges per door is plenty as long as you
keep them light with a thin center panel. Looking good, I should really finish mine too.


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## tenontim (Feb 24, 2008)

+1 on LoneTree's comments. This place has good, cheap hinges. I've used them quite a bit and have had no trouble with them. They aren't adjustable, so make sure everything is square. http://www.dlawlesshardware.com/conhinh1.html


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## TCCcabinetmaker (Dec 14, 2011)

removing messages can be tricky here I guess.


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

"The mark of a good carpenter is not how few mistakes he makes, but rather how well he fixes them." 
Amen

Mario, If you need hinges, Harbor Freight sales European hinges for a very good price.

http://www.harborfreight.com/compact-euro-face-frame-hinge-65765.html

You can borrow my tools to install them


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## kizerpea (Dec 2, 2011)

mario..step back an look …those will b large single doors..from where i,m sitting i would..make 2 doors for each hole. if u are going to paint,m buy some good 2by4,s plane down to 1in use for styles an rails 35mm 1/2 in over hinge $6 each at lowes 2 on each door… one door will be to big. look at the swing on opening the one large door.
my opinion only good luck.


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## TechRedneck (Jul 30, 2010)

I built a number of shop cabinets out of CDX 3/4 ply with no face frames. What I did was attach oak hinge mounting strips on the sides and made some panel doors to fit using 1/4 ply and ash for rails and stiles.

You can see one set here. Used inexpensive kitchen hinges from a borg store.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/55825


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## BuyoMasilla (Jun 5, 2011)

Bert, Thanks for the offer Buddy. As it turned out, I have picked up some really cheap hinges at NPS that will be using on this project. I have hung the face frames, but still need to build the doors. Unfortunately for me, my cheap hinges are not adjustable. I think it will turn out OK after all though. Hope to be posting pictures in my projects in the not so distant future ;-).


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## Holt (Mar 15, 2011)

Just for general information, Tom Clark has done a book that documents his very straight forward approach for building shop storage. I've built two large cabinets (hanging on french cleats) using his "system" and I've discovered it is pretty idiot proof <g>. Only knock I have, is you generally have to read the book straight through (and I recommend adding tabs and/or post-it notes), the goodies are in the flow of the text, not summarized in tight little easy to find again boxes <g>.


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## Carloz (Oct 12, 2016)

Good decision of not going with sliding doors. They are only good if you have very limited space in front of them, which should never be the case. But are so much hassle to use


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