# Drawer Slides > Level or Perpendicular?



## apehl (Jul 18, 2016)

I am building a vanity and have already installed the face frame. I will be using full extension side mount slides for the drawers. I am using the Rockler universal drawer mounting jig. When I seat the jig against the face frame I noticed the slides are not level. Is it more important to level these slides or to make them perpendicular to the face?

I would assume I would level them but not being experienced in drawers I wanted to make sure.


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## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

Does that means your face frame is not plumb?


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## brtech (May 26, 2010)

If they were level and the front side of the case was, say, 30 degrees off level, imagine what the front drawer face looks like. It would be perpendicular to the slides, and thus way off from flush when the drawer was closed.

Of course the right answer is "yes": both level and perpendicular, but if the case isn't level, you have to make the slides perpendicular. Not being level means they will tend to open or close themselves depending on which way the case is leaning. But at least they will close flush.

Of course you could make the drawers cockeyed to compensate for the lean in the case, and then the slides could be level. I've seen a drawer front shimmed a bit relative to the drawer box to do that. Not a great idea.


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## LeeRoyMan (Feb 23, 2019)

I've always found it easier to cut a piece of wood to set the guides on.
Takes all the guesswork out of it.


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## RClark (Jun 1, 2012)

I would make them level. If the drawer faces are not flush with the face frame after leveling, then I would plane the faces so that they become flush with the face frame.

Regarding drawer slide mounting jigs: I bought a Kreg mounting jig many years ago. After my first less-than-satisfying slide mounting exercise, I put it away and began using spacer blocks when installing slides. That jig is collecting dust somewhere in my shop.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

What Leroy said.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

> What Leroy said.
> 
> - shipwright


Yep, that's the way I always install them.


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## Nubsnstubs (Aug 30, 2013)

> I ve always found it easier to cut a piece of wood to set the guides on.
> Takes all the guesswork out of it.
> 
> 
> ...


And when that piece is first made, cut one end at an angle. Insert it with the angle at the bottom so it will stay against the wall. When the top slides are installed, if you have more to install, make your cut from the top, leaving the angle on the bottom end. ............. Jerry (in Tucson)


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## JackDuren (Oct 10, 2015)

For me it depends if it euro or face frame, stack or not. You can buy the inserts and plastic frame mount kits and use the drawer front to set the guides…


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## apehl (Jul 18, 2016)

Drawer fronts will be a shaker style and rest on face of the frame rather than recessed. Therefore if the slides are level but not perpendicular then i could shim or allow the fronts not to sit flush on the face without it being as noticeable as a recessed or flush drawer.










not sure why image is upside down









view of the face frame


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## LeeRoyMan (Feb 23, 2019)

I've never used a level once to mount drawers. 
Perpendicular to the face is what you want. 
Both slides have to be parallel with each other. You can't have one side going up and the other side going down. 
If your drawer front doesn't sit flat on the face you can adjust the back of the slides up or down to correct it.

Edit: If your drawers slides are perpendicular, when you install and level the cabinets, your drawer slides will be as level as you make the cabinets.


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## DS (Oct 10, 2011)

I tried following the issue, but, admittedly I got a bit confused.

If your cabinet is built on a level and true flat surface, so as not to introduce a twist during assembly, and your parts are cut square, and the face frame is assembled square, you will have a much easier time installing drawer guides. (No need for the small level on the jig, because perpendicular to the face will be automatically level)

I keep a short assembly table level and true for just this purpose.
Hope this helps.


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## DS (Oct 10, 2011)

> What Leroy said.
> 
> - shipwright
> 
> ...


I guess I am spoiled as the CNC drills the mounting holes really accurately.
I've been jigless since 1998


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

What Leroy is telling you.


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## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

removed


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## JackDuren (Oct 10, 2015)

I thought I had some pictures from a job I did…

.


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## EricFai (Sep 30, 2018)

It all in the install of the cabinet. Level and plumb, and the guides will be level and perpendicular. Jigs to mount, No, blocks, Yes. There are some things where a level is not required, such as doors and windows, I always use the reveals.


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## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

I've always done the "chunk a wood" as shown by LRM. Flipping it side to side you'll be as close to perfection as you can get working with wood. If you start at the top as shown you can then saw it down to the correct height for the one below, and continue until you are simply laying it on it's side on the floor of the cabinet. Before you know it all the slides are mounted on both sides, and you are shoving drawers in.

Doing side mount slides you can put the slides on the drawer boxes anywhere you want to. I always put mine at the very bottom by laying the drawer box on a table, and setting the disconnected slide end also on the table, and screwing it onto the drawer box 1/4" back from the front of the box. Doing them consistently like that I've never had an issue with a side mount slide not working smoothly.


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## DS (Oct 10, 2011)

To the OP's original question of what is more important, level or perpendicular, those two things should match.
If they don't your cabinet has bigger problems which might make good drawer figment impossible.

The boards, the jigs and even precision drilled CNC holes are no good unless you have a square and true cabinet and a square and true drawer box.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

Definitely 90°

I've done the spacer thing, but find a drilling guide is easier, faster and accurate. If I can remember, I drill the holes before the cab is assembled. Eliminates hassle of finding the hole, clamping slide (or hope it doesn't move, awkward position, etc…

You can buy commercially made, I make my own.


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## DS (Oct 10, 2011)

Just noticed that autocorrect changed fitment to figment… frustrating. (It wanted to do it again just now.)


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

I don't know if the auto correct uses context but I think that the word you want is actually just "fit". Fitment refers to furnishings, especially built-ins. The cabinet itself will be a fitment. Sometimes fittings on a ship are referred to as fitments. Sorry to be so pedantic.


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