# Hand Tool Journey



## Blake (Oct 17, 2007)

*Turn of the Century Disston Dovetail Saw*

I found this beautiful old saw hanging on my wall yesterday. I think I bought it at at the flea market a while back and forgot about it.

Its really nice, but its been abused and neglected. Its time for a face lift. I am assuming it is a dovetail saw? I want to know more about it. I would like to become more of a hand tool user.

On the blade it says *"HENRY DISSTON AND SONS, CAST STEEL, PHILADA.USA, WARRENTED"* And the handle says *"C. ROSENBURG" *on both sides. It also has an X marked on the edge of the blade stiffener.
































































*What can you tell me about this saw?


 About how old is it?
 Is there a name for this style or shape?

*I plan on restoring it to a usable and very nice looking saw. I will start by separating the handle and blade. Then I think I will use a chemical stripper on the handle since it is covered in glue and varnish. Then I guess I will give it a good sanding and refinish.

*What else should I know about restoring this saw?


 How should I treat the blade? Just .000 steel and elbow grease?
 How can I sharpen it?
 Can I have a professional saw shop sharpen it?
*


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## MacTownFish (Oct 10, 2008)

Blake said:


> *Turn of the Century Disston Dovetail Saw*
> 
> I found this beautiful old saw hanging on my wall yesterday. I think I bought it at at the flea market a while back and forgot about it.
> 
> ...


I googled "Henry Disston and Sons" and got this hit: http://www.roseantiquetools.com/id57.html

If you scroll down the page, there is a .pdf catalog for the year 1939. Your saw looks very much like the Disston #4 Back Saw on page 11 of the catalog although the screw placement in the handle is a little different.

If you look further through the catalog there are instructions on how to use the saw, how to sharpen the blade and other tips.

I don't know if there's any way to determine what year your saw might have been manufactured.

You gotta love the internet.


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## brianinpa (Mar 16, 2008)

Blake said:


> *Turn of the Century Disston Dovetail Saw*
> 
> I found this beautiful old saw hanging on my wall yesterday. I think I bought it at at the flea market a while back and forgot about it.
> 
> ...


Blake,

Not sure how far you have searched yet, but there are numerous sites devoted to Disston Saws. This is the one I go to a lot. A bunch of info can be gleened from them. Great looking saw, not sure which one of the backsaws you have, but I am sure it is pictured somewhere.


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Turn of the Century Disston Dovetail Saw*
> 
> I found this beautiful old saw hanging on my wall yesterday. I think I bought it at at the flea market a while back and forgot about it.
> 
> ...


I would have it professionally sharpened. I have seen the computer driven machines that sharpen hand saws and the results that they produce. You can't beat them.

If you want to sharpen it yourself, have it done professionally the first time. Then you only have to maintain it.


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## rejr (Jun 24, 2008)

Blake said:


> *Turn of the Century Disston Dovetail Saw*
> 
> I found this beautiful old saw hanging on my wall yesterday. I think I bought it at at the flea market a while back and forgot about it.
> 
> ...


I've just picked up three backsaws. All need work of one sort or another.

The guides I'm following are 'How to Clean a Saw" & "Saw Filing-A Beginner's Primer" both found at the library link at http://www.vintagesaws.com/

Under Saw Care is information on size of files and "Saw Filing-A Beginner's Primer"

http://www.backsaw.net/ has a large library of handle templates if that is needed; also some good descriptions and historical information


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## blackcherry (Dec 7, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Turn of the Century Disston Dovetail Saw*
> 
> I found this beautiful old saw hanging on my wall yesterday. I think I bought it at at the flea market a while back and forgot about it.
> 
> ...


I will tell you that you have on your hands a very fine vintage saw…these saw date back as far as 1864 and some are very highly sought after by collector. Your is known as a back saw and in my estimation would be around 1920's. This may be a good site to look into http://www.vintagesaws.com/cgi-bin/frameset.cgi?left=saws&right=/backsaw/backsaws.html...thanks for posting and sharing this fine hand tool …Blkcherry


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## wooddon (Jul 11, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Turn of the Century Disston Dovetail Saw*
> 
> I found this beautiful old saw hanging on my wall yesterday. I think I bought it at at the flea market a while back and forgot about it.
> 
> ...


On the disston web site there is a area that dates the saw by the button on the handle.


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## crookedshack (Jan 17, 2008)

Blake said:


> *Turn of the Century Disston Dovetail Saw*
> 
> I found this beautiful old saw hanging on my wall yesterday. I think I bought it at at the flea market a while back and forgot about it.
> 
> ...


Hey Blake,
Great find. I have an old Disston carcase saw and when I was looking to get it sharpened I was directed to Daryl Weir. He sells a lot on ebay as Woodnut4. Another place that Chris Schwarz just blogged about is http://www.technoprimitives.com/. Good luck and I can't wait to see it cleaned up.


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## Caliper (Mar 12, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Turn of the Century Disston Dovetail Saw*
> 
> I found this beautiful old saw hanging on my wall yesterday. I think I bought it at at the flea market a while back and forgot about it.
> 
> ...


Blake, I agree with blackcherry on the vintagesaws.com site. Excellent resource. Another place you might check for reference information is www.woodworking-magazine.com/blog. Here is a link for all their articles specifically related to saws. Down the page, there is a good article about Western Backsaws posted in March.

Here is a clearing house of reference links. MANY things hand tool related including some saw sharpening links.

If you decide to send it out the first time, this fella has restored a lot of saws and is now offering a sharpening service.

Good luck!


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## rejr (Jun 24, 2008)

Blake said:


> *Turn of the Century Disston Dovetail Saw*
> 
> I found this beautiful old saw hanging on my wall yesterday. I think I bought it at at the flea market a while back and forgot about it.
> 
> ...


TechnoPrimitives is now offering sharpening and sales without going through ebay
http://www.technoprimitives.com/saw_sharpening__restoration_services


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## Blake (Oct 17, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Turn of the Century Disston Dovetail Saw*
> 
> I found this beautiful old saw hanging on my wall yesterday. I think I bought it at at the flea market a while back and forgot about it.
> 
> ...


Wow, thanks for all the great info!

According to THIS page it seems to be a civil war-era saw.

According to THIS it appears that it might be between 1897 and 1917.

Thanks rejr, I like that link for resharpening.


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## blackcherry (Dec 7, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Turn of the Century Disston Dovetail Saw*
> 
> I found this beautiful old saw hanging on my wall yesterday. I think I bought it at at the flea market a while back and forgot about it.
> 
> ...


Thanks for sharing with us Blake …I got a great kick out of seeing it…cherish this fine vintage tool…Blkcherry


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## Blake (Oct 17, 2007)

*Lately I've really been getting into hand tools.*

Lately I've really been getting into hand tools.

I asked for a few Japanese chisels for Christmas (one each from a few different people in the family.) I ended up with a set of four from Woodcraft. I decided that this collection was worthy of family heirloom status so I had them laser engraved and built a box to keep them in.










I have always had a fascination with Japanese culture, art and woodworking. Lately I have been reading Japanese Woodworking Tools, Their Tradition, Spirit and Use by Toshio Odate. This is a truly eye-opening book and I highly recommend it to every woodworker. I've also really enjoyed a book called Selecting and Using Hand Tools by Fine Woodworking.

















So the natural progression from owning such a beautiful set of chisels lead me to coming up with a way to keep them sharp… which is how I ended up with a WorkSharp. And let me tell you, this is an amazing little machine. I know there are lots of ways to put a razer edge on a tool, but this thing makes it EASY. Which means my tools will ALWAYS be sharp. Its one of the best investments I've made in my shop in a long time.










So armed with the WorkSharp, I spent one afternoon grinding, sharpening and honing ALL my hand tools. And it suddenly occurred to me… wow… I've never worked with sharp tools before!

*Dangerously sharp edge on a chisel from the WorkSharp:*










I've always used chisels and planes and the occasional "Shark Saw" (Japanese-style saw from Big Box store) among other hand tools. But my first hand tool epiphany came when I first learned how to dress and use a cabinet scraper, and I was HOOKED. It really changed how I work… no more power sander (for the most part).

But my chisels and planes had been causing me a lot of frustration until now, because it was so tedious to sharpen them that I simply never took the time to do it. Now all of my planes sing like Billie Holiday.

The more I read Odate's book as well as watch videos online, etc, the more I have become addicted to Japanese hand tools. Its a terrible, expensive addiction, but I don't think I can shake it. I've been window-shopping online today on ebay and sites like The Japan Woodworker. I've got my eye on a Dozuki (dovetail saw) next… but that will have to wait a few months 'till my birthday 

But its not just Japanese hand tools that has got me excited lately. Its ALL hand tools. It just so happens that I work at a used tool store (dangerous, I know). So my collection is always growing.

*This is my plane cabinet.* The bottom shelf is the currently usable planes, and the next shelf up contains some that either need to be restored, or purely collectibles (like the brightly colored vintage "student" planes).










*From left to right:*

 Modern (cheap) Stanley that I use for utility purposes like door jams or construction
 Millers Falls No 56B (Favorite block plane)
 Record No 077 rabbet/bullnose (Other favorite plane)
 Stanley Bullnose plane with SweetHeart blade
 Little Stanley "finger" plane (as I call it) with SweetHeart blade










*From front to back:*

 Stanley No. 4 with SweetHeart blade
 Stanley Bailey No. 5
 Stanley Bailey No. 6










So in my excitement over hand tools lately, I have really been in the mood to make my own planes. I have really been inspired by some of the handmade tools by other Lumberjocks too. It doesn't seem like a very complicated project, but very rewarding (and a great way to use up scraps as well.)

So I have been thinking about where to get blades from. I hate Ebay, and I really didn't want to spent $40 bucks each for "Hock" blades from a catalog. So I had an idea, let me know what you think. I have a small collection of old wood planes that were inherited from a family-friend. Although I appreciate the history and like looking at them, they are in poor enough condition to where I would never use them.










Example of poor condition:










Some of these wooden planes appear to be handmade. The only plane with any marks on the wooden body is this one which (I think) reads "196 W.SCHNEHOER AVE. NY"

(Note the seemingly-missing handle next to the saw marks… it was probably cut off after breaking)



















Anyway, my idea is to keep the wooden plane collection but give the blades a new lease on life by using them to make my new hand-made planes. Or would it just be too sad to "rob" these elders of their irons? What do you think?

The blades are very rusty and would need a lot of work but I would end up with a great variety for my new planes. The man who owned the old wooden planes was a boat builder. So among the collection is a concave plane, a convex plane, and a couple different sizes of straight blades. It would be an interesting challenge to build all of the different plane shapes.


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## kiwi1969 (Dec 22, 2008)

Blake said:


> *Lately I've really been getting into hand tools.*
> 
> Lately I've really been getting into hand tools.
> 
> ...


If you don,t use the old planes people complain that you,re just a collector, if you restore them people complain that you,ve destroyed the patina. You can,t win! So Use the old irons anyway. The metals probably as good as anything you get now.


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## jcame (Aug 10, 2008)

Blake said:


> *Lately I've really been getting into hand tools.*
> 
> Lately I've really been getting into hand tools.
> 
> ...


Do it dude!!! Besides, I did'nt here any names worth collecting anyway and even if I did, they would just sit around collecting dust. So its as I said, DO IT DUDE!!


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Blake said:


> *Lately I've really been getting into hand tools.*
> 
> Lately I've really been getting into hand tools.
> 
> ...


Thats real cool!


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## Tikka (May 14, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Lately I've really been getting into hand tools.*
> 
> Lately I've really been getting into hand tools.
> 
> ...


I have a few old wooden planes, my favorite is:  it is 25" long with a 2" bi-metal blade. The main body of the plane is made from Masur Birch, I am not sure what the handle is made from.

The remainder are just gathering dust at the moment, some of them are worth repairing, others will be scrapped. But the blades are definitely worth using or re-using - sharpen them up first to see how the edge is maintained - if it is OK then de-rust and protect it.

They do not give as good as finish as my Veritas planes, but for rough work they are great.


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## jcees (Dec 31, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Lately I've really been getting into hand tools.*
> 
> Lately I've really been getting into hand tools.
> 
> ...


Go for it, Blakester! The process of making your own hand planes can be a lot of fun. Also, you can set angles of attack for appropriate hardwoods, i.e. 50, 55 or even 90 degrees. While I don't know just how bad your old blades are, you at least want clean smooth backs without pitting to be able to get the best use and life from them. I've used and am still using old Stanley blades, Hocks and L-Ns. The newer blades are better to be sure BUT the older ones like from the wooden planes are usually tapered and much much thicker on the business end than anything made by Hock, Clifton, L-N or Veritas. I've even gone so far as to collect old tapered blades that are restorable from flea markets and even eBay.

Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.

always,
J.C.


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## Woodshopfreak (Feb 26, 2008)

Blake said:


> *Lately I've really been getting into hand tools.*
> 
> Lately I've really been getting into hand tools.
> 
> ...


Thats pretty neat. Those old planes look like they have had a lot of use over the years.


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## Moai (Feb 9, 2009)

Blake said:


> *Lately I've really been getting into hand tools.*
> 
> Lately I've really been getting into hand tools.
> 
> ...


That's a nice set of chisels….I'm reading the same book by Odate and what interest me most about Japanese WW is the use of the body and space….and of course tools!
I am living in an small apartment, so I'm considering the way to work here but in a clean, non-mess way, so this book is great in that way.
I was recently in a tool event by Lie Nielsen at The Crucible in Oakland, one of the invited toolmakers was Konrad Bauer from Bauer & Steiner…..That was the first time I tried an infill plane (I tried all of them!) but that was the moment when I said: I want to make tools!!! Those planes are pure state of the Art!
There are many online steel suppliers you can use to make your own blades, or you can use Ron Hock ones, by the way he was telling us at the crucible, that many people make their own blades and send them to him for the final hardeness treatment. He is a very open guy to help other woodworkers.
I can recommend a Japanese saw I use, the brand name is HYOKUSHO, they are of great quality, made in Japan at afordable prices. Lee Valley also have a good selection.


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## Blake (Oct 17, 2007)

*My first Krenov Style Plane*

I made my first plane!

I used the blade from one of those old wooden planes I had. As you can see I had a variety of these old planes with different style blades. Straight, concave, and a couple different radii of convex blades:










Here are some progress photos…

*Making the Body:*

I started out with a block of Koa that I got on our honeymoon in Kauai, Hawaii.










Look, two plane bodies!










I used the width of the blade as a guide to cut my block into slabs.
























I am basing my design from instructions in various books from James Krenov. Here I am checking and drawing the angles for the mouth:



















And cut them on the bandsaw:










I had to run one of the triangle pieces on my router table to create the space for the screw that holds chip breaker on to the iron.

















*Making the Pin:*

Now, I don't have a lathe. So I had to get creative to make the round ends of the pin. I used a plug cutting bit on my drill press. I think this would be faster and easier than a lathe anyway. This ensures that both ends are the same and I know that they are exactly 1/2" so I can use a 1/2" drill bit to drill the holes.










I finished shaping the pin (rounding over the top) with a chisel.










Finally I glued it up:



















Here is the glued up body:










I ran the plane upside-down through my thickness sander to carefully flatten the sole and open the throat until it was just right:










*Shaping the body:*

I first rough cut the basic shape on the bandsaw:










And after a lot of hand shaping I ended up with this:










*The blade:*

Sorry, I didn't take photos of the blade shaping process. but I cut the blade and chip breaker shorter, shaped it on the disk sander, and sharpened it on my WorkSharp.

*And HERE is the finished project:*


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## spanky46 (Feb 12, 2009)

Blake said:


> *My first Krenov Style Plane*
> 
> I made my first plane!
> 
> ...


Nice job! Interesting too. Thanks for sharing.


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## TraumaJacques (Oct 25, 2008)

Blake said:


> *My first Krenov Style Plane*
> 
> I made my first plane!
> 
> ...


Dude you bought "wood" on your honeymoon that is awesome!!! Nice plane thanks for posting


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## PaBull (May 13, 2008)

Blake said:


> *My first Krenov Style Plane*
> 
> I made my first plane!
> 
> ...


Very nice Blake, I could see building one like this.

How is Koa to work with?


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## Blake (Oct 17, 2007)

Blake said:


> *My first Krenov Style Plane*
> 
> I made my first plane!
> 
> ...


Its very easy to work with. A lot like mahogany (I think its in the same family).


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Blake said:


> *My first Krenov Style Plane*
> 
> I made my first plane!
> 
> ...


Blake a great job. I've got a couple of Kenov's books and always wanted to do that. Someday I hope.


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## jcees (Dec 31, 2007)

Blake said:


> *My first Krenov Style Plane*
> 
> I made my first plane!
> 
> ...


*Schweeeeeet!!!* Very nice indeed and it works too! Gotta love that. I've been to Kauai too, north shore, great time BUT all I came back with was a dent in my wallet and a river rock to use as a doorstop. Go figure. Anyway, Blake, now you're toast. You've developed the ability to roll your own and you will, bubba… you will. Bravo.

always,
J.C.


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

Blake said:


> *My first Krenov Style Plane*
> 
> I made my first plane!
> 
> ...


Blake, I have always thought that making a plane would be a wonderful project to attempt. The process that you described breaks it down and removes a lot of the mystery for me. Nice job. This is a wonderful use of the Koa as well.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Blake said:


> *My first Krenov Style Plane*
> 
> I made my first plane!
> 
> ...


Looks nice, Blake.


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## Billboard (Apr 10, 2008)

Blake said:


> *My first Krenov Style Plane*
> 
> I made my first plane!
> 
> ...


Great pictoral. Love the plane.


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## Blake (Oct 17, 2007)

*Amazing find... Maebiki-nokogiri*

So as I have mentioned in previous blogs, I have been studying and collecting Japanese hand tools. And my favorite book which has inspired the collection is JAPANESE WOODWORKING TOOLS by Toshio Odate.










In this book there is a section on saws (Nokogiri) where Odate proudly displays a favorite in his collection:



















This saw was a rip saw used to mill large stock. The wide blade was designed to keep the cut straight in very thick lumber. It was used by the mighty kobiki-shokunin (sawyer). According to the Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum it was probably produced and used during *Japan's Meiji era (1868-1912)*.

Well, this is what I found at the flee market on Friday, and paid $10 bucks for:





































Its in amazing condition. Even the original handle is intact, although warn (it was obviously put to work!) It has a little rust but I will clean it carefully. It has the same blacksmith tool marks as the one that Odate shows. From the little bit of research I've done this saw seems to be over 100 years old!


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## Billboard (Apr 10, 2008)

Blake said:


> *Amazing find... Maebiki-nokogiri*
> 
> So as I have mentioned in previous blogs, I have been studying and collecting Japanese hand tools. And my favorite book which has inspired the collection is JAPANESE WOODWORKING TOOLS by Toshio Odate.
> 
> ...


Asesome find. I only find junk at flea markets.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Blake said:


> *Amazing find... Maebiki-nokogiri*
> 
> So as I have mentioned in previous blogs, I have been studying and collecting Japanese hand tools. And my favorite book which has inspired the collection is JAPANESE WOODWORKING TOOLS by Toshio Odate.
> 
> ...


I can't imagine using a saw that big ,cool photos


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## clieb91 (Aug 17, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Amazing find... Maebiki-nokogiri*
> 
> So as I have mentioned in previous blogs, I have been studying and collecting Japanese hand tools. And my favorite book which has inspired the collection is JAPANESE WOODWORKING TOOLS by Toshio Odate.
> 
> ...


Great find! Hope you can post some pics or video of it in use.

CtL


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## Tikka (May 14, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Amazing find... Maebiki-nokogiri*
> 
> So as I have mentioned in previous blogs, I have been studying and collecting Japanese hand tools. And my favorite book which has inspired the collection is JAPANESE WOODWORKING TOOLS by Toshio Odate.
> 
> ...


I would imagine a very rare/scarce piece to find anywhere, let alone in a flea market. All you hard work has paid dividends yet again. Well done Blake


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## DaleM (Feb 18, 2009)

Blake said:


> *Amazing find... Maebiki-nokogiri*
> 
> So as I have mentioned in previous blogs, I have been studying and collecting Japanese hand tools. And my favorite book which has inspired the collection is JAPANESE WOODWORKING TOOLS by Toshio Odate.
> 
> ...


That's a real treasure. Man, talk about a real work out, I could hardly imagine using that thing regularly.


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## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

Blake said:


> *Amazing find... Maebiki-nokogiri*
> 
> So as I have mentioned in previous blogs, I have been studying and collecting Japanese hand tools. And my favorite book which has inspired the collection is JAPANESE WOODWORKING TOOLS by Toshio Odate.
> 
> ...


Man that saw is huge! Quite a work I bet!


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## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

Blake said:


> *Amazing find... Maebiki-nokogiri*
> 
> So as I have mentioned in previous blogs, I have been studying and collecting Japanese hand tools. And my favorite book which has inspired the collection is JAPANESE WOODWORKING TOOLS by Toshio Odate.
> 
> ...


i hope you don't think this is a dumb question, but would you ever consider trying it out? just to see what its like to try and usera tool like that?


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

Blake said:


> *Amazing find... Maebiki-nokogiri*
> 
> So as I have mentioned in previous blogs, I have been studying and collecting Japanese hand tools. And my favorite book which has inspired the collection is JAPANESE WOODWORKING TOOLS by Toshio Odate.
> 
> ...


that is an amazing find blake!!!!!!!!!! you are one lucky man


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## Jojo (Jul 11, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Amazing find... Maebiki-nokogiri*
> 
> So as I have mentioned in previous blogs, I have been studying and collecting Japanese hand tools. And my favorite book which has inspired the collection is JAPANESE WOODWORKING TOOLS by Toshio Odate.
> 
> ...


You are a very lucky dog, *Blake*. I've been trying to find one here in Japan for a customer for months to no avail.

*A1Jim*, actually, this is not big at all, this is a "maebiki", the big ones are the "maebiki ooga" and those are similar but about 5 ft. long, some even have two handles.

They were used for milling lumber when building the houses. I have one that is some hundred years old but it is smaller than *Blake*'s. It's a mere 28" long and I believe my wife's grandfather used it to build the house we live in, as well as my in-laws, at the turn of the XXth century.

Here she is, I'll restore it as soon as I get out of here. Otherwise the soggy climate of Kyoto would do wonders to get it back to this sad state in a hurry.










By the way, isn't it amazing how thick and heavy they are?

EDIT PS: I almost forgot: I always laugh at the "innovations" like the Lee Valley progressive pitch saw. Hmm… this has been the standard in japanese saws for centuries. Anyone realized the difference in TPI of *Blake*'s maebiki from shoulder to toe?


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## mattg (May 6, 2008)

Blake said:


> *Amazing find... Maebiki-nokogiri*
> 
> So as I have mentioned in previous blogs, I have been studying and collecting Japanese hand tools. And my favorite book which has inspired the collection is JAPANESE WOODWORKING TOOLS by Toshio Odate.
> 
> ...


That's awesome, Blake!! Are you gonna clean it up, sharpen it, and put it to good use?


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## Bureaucrat (May 26, 2008)

Blake said:


> *Amazing find... Maebiki-nokogiri*
> 
> So as I have mentioned in previous blogs, I have been studying and collecting Japanese hand tools. And my favorite book which has inspired the collection is JAPANESE WOODWORKING TOOLS by Toshio Odate.
> 
> ...


Blake: Great find! I can't even find a flea market let alone a useful tool.

Jojo: Thanks for pointing out the progressive tooth pattern, I missed it.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Blake said:


> *Amazing find... Maebiki-nokogiri*
> 
> So as I have mentioned in previous blogs, I have been studying and collecting Japanese hand tools. And my favorite book which has inspired the collection is JAPANESE WOODWORKING TOOLS by Toshio Odate.
> 
> ...


Nice find Blake.


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## kiwi1969 (Dec 22, 2008)

Blake said:


> *Amazing find... Maebiki-nokogiri*
> 
> So as I have mentioned in previous blogs, I have been studying and collecting Japanese hand tools. And my favorite book which has inspired the collection is JAPANESE WOODWORKING TOOLS by Toshio Odate.
> 
> ...


HOLY CRAP!!!! Thats one wonderfully wierd saw, what a great find. I imagine some serviceman bought that back as a souviner, maybe there,s more.


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## Dusty56 (Apr 20, 2008)

Blake said:


> *Amazing find... Maebiki-nokogiri*
> 
> So as I have mentioned in previous blogs, I have been studying and collecting Japanese hand tools. And my favorite book which has inspired the collection is JAPANESE WOODWORKING TOOLS by Toshio Odate.
> 
> ...


Awesome Dovetail saw !! LOL …Such a great find , my friend : ) Yes , I noticed the progressive teeth as well . Modern technology , ay ? hahaha


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Amazing find... Maebiki-nokogiri*
> 
> So as I have mentioned in previous blogs, I have been studying and collecting Japanese hand tools. And my favorite book which has inspired the collection is JAPANESE WOODWORKING TOOLS by Toshio Odate.
> 
> ...


I saw this on ebay and thought of you….

http://cgi.ebay.com/Japanese-pullsaw-nokogiri-maebiki_W0QQitemZ360204998863QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item53dde418cf


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Amazing find... Maebiki-nokogiri*
> 
> So as I have mentioned in previous blogs, I have been studying and collecting Japanese hand tools. And my favorite book which has inspired the collection is JAPANESE WOODWORKING TOOLS by Toshio Odate.
> 
> ...


Here is a post on a related saw…

http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/2094


----------



## Blake (Oct 17, 2007)

*Building a Work Bench*

I did a trade for some woodwork with a guy who had a garage full of lumber and several nice hand tools. Most of the lumber was Oak.

I don't really like working with Oak. But I thought it would be perfect for a bench, and there was enough of it. I got lots of different lengths and widths. Most of it was 3/4". I forgot to take a "before" photo of the stack but here is a sample:










Now I intend to make a nice, sturdy bench, but its going to be more functional than artful masterpiece. Just something that I can really use with hand tools. Its my first bench, and there will be others later. So I really want this to be a quick project so I can get back to work on the stuff I really want to build.

Some may call this a "hack job." Call me a butcher, but I didn't even bother ripping the strips to the same width. As long as one side is flat, thats all that matters.

*I started by rolling on the glue and clamping together sections of a half-dozen or so boards:










Then I glued up two of those sections:*










At this point I have two sections that are less than 8" wide. This way they will fit on my 8" jointer to get one flat side.

*Here is what the top will look like (It hasn't been jointed yet)










Here is the underside (notice the uneven widths)










The ends of the tool tray:










The sections laid out and ready for final assembly:*










Don't worry, that endgrain will be covered with an end piece. For less than $20 bucks I got enough 4×6 and 2×6 Doug Fir for a very sturdy base. I also have a piece of solid mahogany re-claimed from an old desk for a bottom shelf, and a huge woodworking vice I got years ago at the flea market.

*My friend the glue chisel…*

On a side note, I thought I would take a moment to appreciate a very under-rated tool… My *glue chisel.* Its the old workhorse who doesn't whine or complain about the not so glamorous tasks like scraping semi-wet glue off a workpiece, gouging out a nail, prying double-stick-taped jigs apart, or popping bark off of a log.



















Everyone should have a "glue chisel" ...someone's got to do the dirty work.


----------



## Radish (Apr 11, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Building a Work Bench*
> 
> I did a trade for some woodwork with a guy who had a garage full of lumber and several nice hand tools. Most of the lumber was Oak.
> 
> ...


I'm sure the bench will end up looking like a million bucks, but that is one seriously skanky looking chisel.


----------



## littlecope (Oct 23, 2008)

Blake said:


> *Building a Work Bench*
> 
> I did a trade for some woodwork with a guy who had a garage full of lumber and several nice hand tools. Most of the lumber was Oak.
> 
> ...


I am not going to call you a butcher! That is going to be an excellent bench, Blake, can't see any reason why you'd ever have to make another. My Dad made his bench in the same fashion, only with same-width Oak flooring, back in "63 or so- it's still going *very* strong…


----------



## woodworm (Jul 27, 2008)

Blake said:


> *Building a Work Bench*
> 
> I did a trade for some woodwork with a guy who had a garage full of lumber and several nice hand tools. Most of the lumber was Oak.
> 
> ...


Great work and great lumber!
Really looking forward to seeing the progress update, next.


----------



## JerrySats (Jul 7, 2008)

Blake said:


> *Building a Work Bench*
> 
> I did a trade for some woodwork with a guy who had a garage full of lumber and several nice hand tools. Most of the lumber was Oak.
> 
> ...


Great job so far , keep the pics coming .


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Blake said:


> *Building a Work Bench*
> 
> I did a trade for some woodwork with a guy who had a garage full of lumber and several nice hand tools. Most of the lumber was Oak.
> 
> ...


super wood and good bench start


----------



## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Building a Work Bench*
> 
> I did a trade for some woodwork with a guy who had a garage full of lumber and several nice hand tools. Most of the lumber was Oak.
> 
> ...


That poor chisel!! It is a sad looking little tool but it will get the job done. I have one of those as well. It is the first chisel I bought and, due to my nelglect and abuse over the years, it has been consigned to a role similar to yours.

The bench is looking pretty good. Oak is a nice wood to work with and machines well. It looks good too so you not only are going to end up with a well constructed bench it will look good as well. This is going to be an interesting series to follow.


----------



## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Building a Work Bench*
> 
> I did a trade for some woodwork with a guy who had a garage full of lumber and several nice hand tools. Most of the lumber was Oak.
> 
> ...


Way to go Blake. This will be fun to watch. Oak should not affect your allergies.

I have such a chisel. Also I have a favorite scratch awl that gets used for all kinds of poking and digging.

Steve


----------



## jockmike2 (Oct 10, 2006)

Blake said:


> *Building a Work Bench*
> 
> I did a trade for some woodwork with a guy who had a garage full of lumber and several nice hand tools. Most of the lumber was Oak.
> 
> ...


It's gonna be a gorgeous bench Blake. Heavy as a beached whale. Maybe you aught to put some wheels on it with some thingys to raise it up off the wheels. Just so you can move it if you have to. I did and l'm glad I did. Made mine out of maple top and 4X4 treated bottom.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

Blake said:


> *Building a Work Bench*
> 
> I did a trade for some woodwork with a guy who had a garage full of lumber and several nice hand tools. Most of the lumber was Oak.
> 
> ...


Looks like you are well on the way to a very nice bench Blake. Glad to see you are back at it again after the allergy problems.


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## Blake (Oct 17, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Building a Work Bench*
> 
> I did a trade for some woodwork with a guy who had a garage full of lumber and several nice hand tools. Most of the lumber was Oak.
> 
> ...


I am REALLY trying to limit the sawdust. I seem to be ok after this last shop session. Only a little itchy.


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## nmkidd (Sep 18, 2009)

Blake said:


> *Building a Work Bench*
> 
> I did a trade for some woodwork with a guy who had a garage full of lumber and several nice hand tools. Most of the lumber was Oak.
> 
> ...


Great start on what's going to be an awesome bench. Don't think you will have a problem of it not be sturdy enough.
Looking forward to seeing the completed product.
Just got back in from my shop….checking to make sure my chisel was still there!


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## bfd (Dec 23, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Building a Work Bench*
> 
> I did a trade for some woodwork with a guy who had a garage full of lumber and several nice hand tools. Most of the lumber was Oak.
> 
> ...


Blake,

This looks like it is going to be a great bench and cannot wait to see the progress on this. Great price too. But so help me god if you knock this out in a week I am giving up woodworking altogether!! I have been working on my bench for 10 months now and just now am I almost complete.


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## Blake (Oct 17, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Building a Work Bench*
> 
> I did a trade for some woodwork with a guy who had a garage full of lumber and several nice hand tools. Most of the lumber was Oak.
> 
> ...


Brian…

All I'm doing is squishing boards together with glue. You're lucky I only have one afternoon a week for woodworking right now, otherwise you might have to let it go.


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## PineInTheAsh (Jun 14, 2009)

Blake said:


> *Building a Work Bench*
> 
> I did a trade for some woodwork with a guy who had a garage full of lumber and several nice hand tools. Most of the lumber was Oak.
> 
> ...


A few months back I stumbled upon the tail end of a two-day garage sale where a huge box of oak flooring sat in a dusty corner nobody wanted. Not enough to floor a room but enough for a knock-about benchtop. For $5, glued to oak ply sheets it looks a beauty. You can bang away to your heart's content.

My trusty "glue chisel" has been with me more than 30 years. Opens paint can lids and scrapes glue from concrete floors, it's one of my best beloved tools.

Best,
Peter


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## blockhead (May 5, 2009)

Blake said:


> *Building a Work Bench*
> 
> I did a trade for some woodwork with a guy who had a garage full of lumber and several nice hand tools. Most of the lumber was Oak.
> 
> ...


That is going to be one helluva of a hefty bench, as it should be. I look forward to followiing the progress.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Blake said:


> *Building a Work Bench*
> 
> I did a trade for some woodwork with a guy who had a garage full of lumber and several nice hand tools. Most of the lumber was Oak.
> 
> ...


Looks great!


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## CDC (Jan 25, 2010)

Blake said:


> *Building a Work Bench*
> 
> I did a trade for some woodwork with a guy who had a garage full of lumber and several nice hand tools. Most of the lumber was Oak.
> 
> ...


Looks great. I'm begining to make plans for a bench and you have inspired me to begin. My thoughts on the top would be to make 6" sections, joint and plane them to thickness. Then glue the sections together. Anyone have ideas for the best wood for a bench? Maple, hickory, birch, beech, etc.
CDC


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## Blake (Oct 17, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Building a Work Bench*
> 
> I did a trade for some woodwork with a guy who had a garage full of lumber and several nice hand tools. Most of the lumber was Oak.
> 
> ...


Anything hard and heavy.


----------



## Blake (Oct 17, 2007)

*More Bench Progress*

Once I had my two larger bench sections glued up I ran them through the planer…










And chopped the ends square










I used my biscuit jointer to align the two laminated "slabs," since after this glue up it will be too big to run through my thickness planer:



















Two slabs glued up:










And now glued up with the tool tray:










*THE BASE*

I spent $18.00 on 4×6 and 2×6 Doug Fir for the base at Home Depot:










A little shaping of the feet on the bandsaw, and oak pads added:










Mortise cut on the RAS (I do it this way because it is fast)










Leg assembly:










The assembled base (screws and glue… but the screws are well hidden)










A little preview of the whole thing together with the huge old Craftsman vice from the flea market:










By the way, the base alone is MASSIVE. It will weigh a ton with the solid oak top sitting on it.

The top will still get wide edges that wrap around all four sides. This will give the sides more surface area as well as make the top look more substantial (the base won't look so disproportionately huge.)

I haven't decided whether to stain or paint the base (maybe black?)... or leave it natural. I think something darker would look nice and de-emphasize the fact that I used construction-grade lumber.

*Any thoughts?*

Also, what kind of finish do I use on the oak top? Just oil?


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

Blake said:


> *More Bench Progress*
> 
> Once I had my two larger bench sections glued up I ran them through the planer…
> 
> ...


Just oil it. The top will be really easy to care for if all you do is keep it oiled.


----------



## Cory (Jan 14, 2009)

Blake said:


> *More Bench Progress*
> 
> Once I had my two larger bench sections glued up I ran them through the planer…
> 
> ...


I think that a black or dark stain would look really cool on the bottom. It will definitely make the top look larger, too.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

Blake said:


> *More Bench Progress*
> 
> Once I had my two larger bench sections glued up I ran them through the planer…
> 
> ...


For a finish I would go BLO / Wax and call it good. Why hide the base under paint just because there are a couple of knots? Consider them character and move on. It is a workbench after all, and not a china hutch…


----------



## KentS (May 27, 2009)

Blake said:


> *More Bench Progress*
> 
> Once I had my two larger bench sections glued up I ran them through the planer…
> 
> ...


I was surprised to see the Dewalt radial arm saw in one of your pictures. I grew up using one like it in my dad's shop. And yes, that was a *long* time ago! I think my brother may still have it. Brings back old memories, some of them actually good.

Thanks

By the way-Nice bench (And I would use oil on the top, and maybe stain the base darker and then oil it too)


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

Blake said:


> *More Bench Progress*
> 
> Once I had my two larger bench sections glued up I ran them through the planer…
> 
> ...


I simply oiled the legs of my workbench, that is the one that acts as an out feed for my tablesaw. It is 4"x4" doug fir and looks like yours.

Over time the legs have turned dark and they look great. They have been dinged and dented but there is no film finish to flake off.

I have also splattered them with paint or finish and I just used a rag dampened with solvent to wipe them off.

A card scraper is used to scrape off dried stuff and I apply more oil. Taking care couldn't be easier.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Blake said:


> *More Bench Progress*
> 
> Once I had my two larger bench sections glued up I ran them through the planer…
> 
> ...


Looks great, Blake.


----------



## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

Blake said:


> *More Bench Progress*
> 
> Once I had my two larger bench sections glued up I ran them through the planer…
> 
> ...


Blake, this bench certainly is looking pretty good. It is an inspiration for me to get in the shop and get started on one of my own.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

Blake said:


> *More Bench Progress*
> 
> Once I had my two larger bench sections glued up I ran them through the planer…
> 
> ...


Hey Blake a dark color for your base will show dust pretty easy. If you want to paint it I would suggest a lighter color. Some of those Shaker benches I've seen with painted bases look great to me. It also give the shop a nice atmosphere. I've got a lot of painted stuff in my shop and I really like it.


----------



## Tikka (May 14, 2007)

Blake said:


> *More Bench Progress*
> 
> Once I had my two larger bench sections glued up I ran them through the planer…
> 
> ...


Do not hide the natural beauty of the wood, let nature take its course - Fir takes a lovely patina quite quickly - maybe some oil or wax to help prevent splashes of stain or paint spoiling the wood too much - whats the difference between construction grade Fir and Fir that you have cut your self? apart from the cost


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Blake said:


> *More Bench Progress*
> 
> Once I had my two larger bench sections glued up I ran them through the planer…
> 
> ...


Looks super sturdy good job


----------



## bfd (Dec 23, 2007)

Blake said:


> *More Bench Progress*
> 
> Once I had my two larger bench sections glued up I ran them through the planer…
> 
> ...


Blake,

This is looking great. I am on the fence about painting the base. I think painting it black would look very cool & unique but at the same time leaving with just some oil as Todd and others have mentioned would look great too. Equally impressive as the build is the budget at which you are building this bench. What are the overall dimensions of the bench?


----------



## Blake (Oct 17, 2007)

Blake said:


> *More Bench Progress*
> 
> Once I had my two larger bench sections glued up I ran them through the planer…
> 
> ...


About 2' by 4'

I'm gonna paint it black. Don't worry, it will look good.


----------



## Russel (Aug 13, 2007)

Blake said:


> *More Bench Progress*
> 
> Once I had my two larger bench sections glued up I ran them through the planer…
> 
> ...


Blake says, "Don't worry, it will look good."

For some that might be bragging. However, Blake, it's a natural consequence of your work. I cannot imagine you leaving even a workbench plain and unadorned. You've got a great eye and your work always looks good. This bench is no exception.


----------



## Blake (Oct 17, 2007)

Blake said:


> *More Bench Progress*
> 
> Once I had my two larger bench sections glued up I ran them through the planer…
> 
> ...


Thanks, man.


----------



## Blake (Oct 17, 2007)

*Stanley No. 62 Low Angle Jack*

*Stanley No. 62 Low Angle Jack Plane*

Some of the modern high end hand tool manufacturers have been marketing "low angle jack planes" for years now like it is something nobody has ever thought of before. I mean, I had never heard of a low angle jack before I started reading reviews on Lie Nielson and Veritas versions in Popular Woodworking Magazine.

*Veritas Low Angle Jack Plane:*










And of course we all know that Stanley, the most famous maker of quality hand tools has SERIOUSLY BLOWN IT in the last several decades by manufacturing nothing but crap and letting other companies pick up where they left off. It took them long enough to realize what they had missed out on, and in 2009 they finally released a line of hand planes to compete with Lie Nielson and Veritas (among others)... the nostalgically-named "Sweetheart" line.

*2009 Stanley No. 62 "Sweetheart" Low Angle Jack Plane:*










Well I found out about a great website called The Best Things from another LJ post (sorry, I forget who). When I was browsing this website I saw a beautiful vintage Stanley plane that I had never hear of before. The *Stanley No. 62 Low Angle Jack Plane.*










When I saw this picture I couldn't help getting excited. What a cool plane. I mean, a low angle jack is just kind of a sexy (not to mention useful) addition to a collection of hand planes. And realizing that the original VINTAGE thing was out there, and that they were somewhat RARE… I just had to have one.

Here's where working in a used tool store comes in handy… this came in to our shop the next day:









Now I know it know it will be a lot of work… tons of rust and a broken tote… but I think this will be a FUN project.

Now if you don't know about Patrick's Blood and Gore, its the best resource on the internet for information about Stanley planes. Anyway, according to Patrick, the Stanley No. 62 is "one of Stanley's better planes they ever decided to manufacture."

He also notes that "the mouth often chips, especially in the area behind the cutter. You can flip over ten of these plane, and eight of them will be chipped, one will not be chipped but repaired, and the last perfect."

Well, besides the rust and cracked wood, this thing is COMPLETE and PERFECT. No chips or breaks (so I guess it's number ten.)

I've always wanted to try one of those "electrolysis bath" things that I've seen other people do on the internet. I think this would be the perfect candidate. I will also need to make a new tote and knob. I'll keep you posted on the process and I'm sure I'll have questions along the way.


----------



## oldworld124 (Mar 2, 2008)

Blake said:


> *Stanley No. 62 Low Angle Jack*
> 
> *Stanley No. 62 Low Angle Jack Plane*
> 
> ...


Hi Blake,

Congrats on the find. Have you heard of Evapo-Rust? It is unbelievable. You just dip your parts for a while in the solution and all of the rust disappears. You can find it in larger quantities at Fastenal stores and also some auto parts stores. Have fun on the restoration and please post pictures. John


----------



## PineInTheAsh (Jun 14, 2009)

Blake said:


> *Stanley No. 62 Low Angle Jack*
> 
> *Stanley No. 62 Low Angle Jack Plane*
> 
> ...


While just about all the vintage Stanley planes are highly sought after and collected, there are some that can cause a frenzy on eBay; this one, the bedrocks, and the real long ones-the bigger, the better!

I would love to get my hands on that old rusted 62. It's a perfect resto candidate.

Your handle's a twin crack, rather than careful glue-up (done that) probably better off to sabotage.

Blake, you furnished the "Before" pics now we look forward to the "After."

After decades of an arsenal of sprays, steel wool, and pink jelly, the discovery of Evapo-Rust-as JO describes above-was a true blessing. It's available at Harbor Freight; it's the same everywhere: $19.95 a gallon, available in quarts.

Woodworker or not, E-R's a staple everyone should have on hand at all times…
A dozen eggs, 5 lbs. of flour, a claw hammer, a bag of peat moss, and Miles' "So What" on the turntable.

Best,
Peter


----------



## FlWoodRat (Sep 12, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Stanley No. 62 Low Angle Jack*
> 
> *Stanley No. 62 Low Angle Jack Plane*
> 
> ...


Blake, 
That sure does look like a diamond in the rough. Good luck with your refurbishment project. By the way. I hope you didn't have to spend too much to buy it.


----------



## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Stanley No. 62 Low Angle Jack*
> 
> *Stanley No. 62 Low Angle Jack Plane*
> 
> ...


Blake, this looks like a fun project. It is going to be interesting to follow the transformation on this plane.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Blake said:


> *Stanley No. 62 Low Angle Jack*
> 
> *Stanley No. 62 Low Angle Jack Plane*
> 
> ...


Great find.


----------



## MickeyD (Sep 29, 2008)

Blake said:


> *Stanley No. 62 Low Angle Jack*
> 
> *Stanley No. 62 Low Angle Jack Plane*
> 
> ...


Jed and I just bought the low angle jack plane from Veritas and it is working very well. Good luck on the restoration. Oh, and thanks for the information on the rust removal. We could have used it on an old Fulton we restored.


----------



## jcees (Dec 31, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Stanley No. 62 Low Angle Jack*
> 
> *Stanley No. 62 Low Angle Jack Plane*
> 
> ...


Once cleaned and tuned it will prove itself a thing of beauty *ESPECIALLY *on end grain and wild grain. I've opted for another blade ground at a higher "included" angle of 55 degrees.

Bon voyage, mon ami!

always,
J.C.


----------



## Neodogg (Jan 6, 2009)

Blake said:


> *Stanley No. 62 Low Angle Jack*
> 
> *Stanley No. 62 Low Angle Jack Plane*
> 
> ...


Blake,
cool find and talk about timing! I too have a No 62 it was my G-Pa's, but has a crack by the mouth. Here's some pics:

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/6626


----------



## YorkshireStewart (Sep 20, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Stanley No. 62 Low Angle Jack*
> 
> *Stanley No. 62 Low Angle Jack Plane*
> 
> ...


A thing of real beauty Blake; even in that state. Here's to the first shaving..


----------



## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Stanley No. 62 Low Angle Jack*
> 
> *Stanley No. 62 Low Angle Jack Plane*
> 
> ...


I am looking forward to seeing how this turns out. One thing I would consider is a replacement blade. Lie-Nielson has one for $45.

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?cat=512


----------



## wadestock (Jun 25, 2008)

Blake said:


> *Stanley No. 62 Low Angle Jack*
> 
> *Stanley No. 62 Low Angle Jack Plane*
> 
> ...


It should clean up nice with electrolysis. Mine did.


----------



## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Stanley No. 62 Low Angle Jack*
> 
> *Stanley No. 62 Low Angle Jack Plane*
> 
> ...


When I was on the Lie-Nielsen site looking for the blade earlier, I noticed that they indicated that the 62 was their most versitile plane. I am sure this would hold true for the original Stanley version.

It sure is a pretty plane


----------



## Walnut_Weasel (Jul 30, 2009)

Blake said:


> *Stanley No. 62 Low Angle Jack*
> 
> *Stanley No. 62 Low Angle Jack Plane*
> 
> ...


Great find! I am a bit jealous! I recently purchased the Lie-Nielsen low angle jack plane. If your find turns out as good as the Lie-Nielsen version, you will quickly be finding most of your other planes collecting dust!


----------



## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Stanley No. 62 Low Angle Jack*
> 
> *Stanley No. 62 Low Angle Jack Plane*
> 
> ...


I found one today blake. Hope it turns out as nice…..


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Blake said:


> *Stanley No. 62 Low Angle Jack*
> 
> *Stanley No. 62 Low Angle Jack Plane*
> 
> ...


That's YOURS? Add yourself to the people I hate Dream plane for me, Stanley only; LN boring. Veritas even more so. Insert flames below. You just got yourself something that I dream about nightly, and I'm a plane guy


----------



## Blake (Oct 17, 2007)

*Bench Almost Complete*

More bench progress…

Here is the "tail" vice mortised into the end of the bench. You can also see how the underside of the bench looks with all the different widths I used:



Clamping on the wider "apron" pieces front and back:



And adding the end aprons with dowels:









As you can see I painted the 4×6 fir base black:



I leveled the table with shims under the feet and then bolted the legs to the floor:

















*And then the fun part began…*





I routed the edges of my vice jaws on the router table:





The vices came out really nicely. I made the tail vice so it would span across the entire width of the bench. That way I could have bench dogs along both edges of the bench for wide clamping.





Nearly complete… now all I have to do is add the dog holes, and a little sanding/finishing. I actually made it to the Sacramento Woodworking Show on Sunday and picked up some brass Veritas bench dogs.



I think it looks really good with the black base.



(See all the shavings on the floor!)

*UPDATE:*

Here are the links to the finished bench and cabinet in my projects:


----------



## MedicKen (Dec 2, 2008)

Blake said:


> *Bench Almost Complete*
> 
> More bench progress…
> 
> ...


Looking good Blake


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Bench Almost Complete*
> 
> More bench progress…
> 
> ...


Blake, If the wood handles are loose and slide freely, be sure to install a leather ring on each end to act as a pad or buffer between the end of the handle and the metal sleeve that holds it. This will save the end of the handle from the shock of sliding down and slamming into the metal.

Looks like a great table. You will love working on a nice bench. It will greatly facilitate your efficiency and productivity. It is one of the best tools you will have in the shop.


----------



## GMman (Apr 11, 2008)

Blake said:


> *Bench Almost Complete*
> 
> More bench progress…
> 
> ...


Very good job,good looking work bench.


----------



## Blake (Oct 17, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Bench Almost Complete*
> 
> More bench progress…
> 
> ...


Thanks for the handle idea, Todd.


----------



## brianinpa (Mar 16, 2008)

Blake said:


> *Bench Almost Complete*
> 
> More bench progress…
> 
> ...


Nice looking bench Blake.


----------



## zlatanv (Jul 18, 2009)

Blake said:


> *Bench Almost Complete*
> 
> More bench progress…
> 
> ...


Looks really good, nice color on the base. How thick is the top, square or round holes?


----------



## Blake (Oct 17, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Bench Almost Complete*
> 
> More bench progress…
> 
> ...


Round holes. The top is over 2.5" thick.


----------



## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Bench Almost Complete*
> 
> More bench progress…
> 
> ...


Blake, this turned out to be a great looking bench. This is going to be a nice addition to your shop.


----------



## mpatman (Dec 10, 2008)

Blake said:


> *Bench Almost Complete*
> 
> More bench progress…
> 
> ...


Great looking bench blake…the black stand makes the benchtop really stand out. Now you have more of a reason to use hand tools!


----------



## jcees (Dec 31, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Bench Almost Complete*
> 
> More bench progress…
> 
> ...


What a great little bench, bubba. Very nicely conceived and done. Bravo.

always,
J.C.


----------



## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Bench Almost Complete*
> 
> More bench progress…
> 
> ...


Very nice Blake. I'm jealous.

It will be interesting to see if your endcaps cause any problems with wood movement. Usually these are applied with a sliding attachment and only glued at the end. But you seem to have a well placed horseshoe, so it will probably be just fine.

The thumbnail edging on the vice chocks are sweet.

Good job,
Steve


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

Blake said:


> *Bench Almost Complete*
> 
> More bench progress…
> 
> ...


great bench ,
i like the end vise all the way across ,
good idea !


----------



## bfd (Dec 23, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Bench Almost Complete*
> 
> More bench progress…
> 
> ...


Blake,

This bench is awesome. The black paint on the base was definitely the way to go. Great use of the end vise. As others mentioned really like the edge detail on the vises. This looks to weight a ton.


----------



## tomfidgen (Feb 29, 2008)

Blake said:


> *Bench Almost Complete*
> 
> More bench progress…
> 
> ...


Blake,

this looks great! nice job.
is there a newer pic you could post. just curious what you came up with for dog placement.
all the best-
Tom


----------



## Blake (Oct 17, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Bench Almost Complete*
> 
> More bench progress…
> 
> ...


I just updated my post (above) to include links to the finished bench and cabinet. Here they are again:


----------



## Blake (Oct 17, 2007)

*Electrolysis on the Stanley No. 62*

I always wanted to try electrolysis rust removal and it is just as simple and effective as they claim.

*Note: This is not a full tutorial on electrolysis. You must research the many other resources on the internet before attempting this your self. IT CAN BE DEADLY AND ILLEGAL IF DONE WRONG.*

This is the old Stanley No. 62 low angle jack plane that needed to be de-rusted:



Here it is in pieces:



And here are a couple "before" photos of the body:





Here's my electrolysis bucket set-up. Six pieces of rebar are secured to the top edge of the bucket with bailing wire and then connected with copper wire to form one continuous sacrificial electrode.



"Washing Soda" was the stuff they said to mix into the water as an electrolyte:



The plane parts are suspended from copper wire which gets connected together on top:



And wa-lah:



When its working right you should see millions of tiny hydrogen bubbles rising from the tool (its hard to tell in this photo)...



When it first comes out it looks pretty bad. It makes you wonder if you did something backwards because your tools will be covered in a thick rust sludge:



But after some scrubbing with steel wool it starts to look pretty good:



And here is the final result:







One side had some pitting but the rest looked ok:



The sole was in excellent condition:



I still need to sharpen the blade, lap the sole, and repair the knob and tote.


----------



## pommy (Apr 17, 2008)

Blake said:


> *Electrolysis on the Stanley No. 62*
> 
> I always wanted to try electrolysis rust removal and it is just as simple and effective as they claim.
> 
> ...


Hi Blake

Nice job can i ask is the body pitted in any way as i see there are still some rust spots there and on the sole as for the tote and knob are you looking for original used or brand new if that makes sence LOL…....


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

Blake said:


> *Electrolysis on the Stanley No. 62*
> 
> I always wanted to try electrolysis rust removal and it is just as simple and effective as they claim.
> 
> ...


nice job. looks like there still some rust leftover on the body - better clean that off using evap-o-rust or something else, otherwise it'll spread around.

the tote does not need to be turned - you could use your bandsaw to cut it like I did here


----------



## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

Blake said:


> *Electrolysis on the Stanley No. 62*
> 
> I always wanted to try electrolysis rust removal and it is just as simple and effective as they claim.
> 
> ...


Like Purlev said, Evaporust. It removes all the rust. All of it. The best stuff I've ever seen. Your electrolysis system is pretty cool though.


----------



## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Electrolysis on the Stanley No. 62*
> 
> I always wanted to try electrolysis rust removal and it is just as simple and effective as they claim.
> 
> ...


I would seal the japanned area using a clear schallac. This will prevent further rust. 3 in 1 oil on the adjustment screw. On the knobs they look repairable to me. Glue and refinish. Given the value of this plane, I would keep the original knobs. I would use a good paste wax on the rest of the metal parts.

Check the bottom to see if it is flat. It may not need to be lapped…...

Feel free to give me a call.


----------



## pommy (Apr 17, 2008)

Blake said:


> *Electrolysis on the Stanley No. 62*
> 
> I always wanted to try electrolysis rust removal and it is just as simple and effective as they claim.
> 
> ...


http://www.drozsoldetymestanleytotesandknobs.com try these guys Blake


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Blake said:


> *Electrolysis on the Stanley No. 62*
> 
> I always wanted to try electrolysis rust removal and it is just as simple and effective as they claim.
> 
> ...


Blake great job on the clean-up.


----------



## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

Blake said:


> *Electrolysis on the Stanley No. 62*
> 
> I always wanted to try electrolysis rust removal and it is just as simple and effective as they claim.
> 
> ...


I'll give you my unsolicited thoughts. I too used this process in a very similar manner. The only difference is that I was told the copper wire should not touch the water. I don't know why or if that is even really required, but I think that it has something to do with the possibility of creating a toxic byproduct. I really don't know.

Anyway, I did notice one thing. It seemed that after a quick bath, it loosens up the rust significantly. A quick scrub with a brass brush takes a lot of rust off fast and then you just rinse it in water and put it back in a again. In theory, it shoudl get rid of ALL the rust. evaporust is good, but so is electrolysis and it should be able to get every last bit off. Great photos. You've got a real beauty there.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

Blake said:


> *Electrolysis on the Stanley No. 62*
> 
> I always wanted to try electrolysis rust removal and it is just as simple and effective as they claim.
> 
> ...


those are some real nice knobs/totes Andy… real nice stuff


----------



## northwoodsman (Feb 22, 2008)

Blake said:


> *Electrolysis on the Stanley No. 62*
> 
> I always wanted to try electrolysis rust removal and it is just as simple and effective as they claim.
> 
> ...


I tried this method for the first time this week also. My set-up looks almost identical to yours except I used on 3 rebar rods. One thing that is mentioned in several blogs, once the items are removed from the solution and rinsed off, they rust immediately (within seconds). Get oil on them right away.


----------



## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Electrolysis on the Stanley No. 62*
> 
> I always wanted to try electrolysis rust removal and it is just as simple and effective as they claim.
> 
> ...


Back to the handles. I think they can be glued with PVA and refinished. I would start there. Some photos from my blog of gluing up a handle.

http://lumberjocks.com/WayneC/blog/844

Another option is to check the handles on some of your other stanley planes. I would imagine parts planes come into the tool store quite often.


----------



## OhValleyWoodandWool (Nov 9, 2009)

Blake said:


> *Electrolysis on the Stanley No. 62*
> 
> I always wanted to try electrolysis rust removal and it is just as simple and effective as they claim.
> 
> ...


huh - very interesting


----------



## dlmckirdy (Oct 27, 2009)

Blake said:


> *Electrolysis on the Stanley No. 62*
> 
> I always wanted to try electrolysis rust removal and it is just as simple and effective as they claim.
> 
> ...


I've used a similar electrolosis technique for years on antique car parts. I dug a shallow hole in an unused portion of my yard just deep enough to place the car frame, alxe housings, and misc. parts in with enough room to cover with about two inches of water, lined the hole with two layers of plastic sheeting, placed the parts, filled the hole with water, and added Crystal Vanish Toilet Bowl Cleaner. I only used one scrap iron negative electrode which did not touch any of the parts, and another scrap iron electrode which touched all the parts ( all the parts should touch each other). A 6 volt trickle charger supplied just enough current that stimulated the removal of the rust (in three days I had white metal on all the eighty some year old parts). Afterward I let the solution evaporate, roll up the plastic, and dispose of it in the trash.

This system also works with a few small parts in a small plastic container without the electrical charge, but it takes considerably longer. Like several of you have mentioned, if there is any appreciable moisture in the air, the newly unprotected parts will flash rust. I like the WD-40 (Water Displacer version 40) idea on unpainted parts. I blow dry the parts with compressed air and immediately spray them with metal primer. I live in a desert, and have only done this during summer (about 9 months of the year) so have had little flash rusting problem.


----------



## ToddE (Aug 18, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Electrolysis on the Stanley No. 62*
> 
> I always wanted to try electrolysis rust removal and it is just as simple and effective as they claim.
> 
> ...


That's cool!!!!!!! You might try 220 or higher sand paper on that as well for the sole. I just cleaned one up yesterday. Put a half sheet on a peice of melamine and go back and forth with the sides and the bottom. It will get rid of all the other digs you have on the plane and it digs out the pittings.

I wonder if your process would work on a 1993 Toyota Tercel? I mean it would probably fit in the bucket anyway.


----------



## Dragonsrite (Feb 5, 2009)

Blake said:


> *Electrolysis on the Stanley No. 62*
> 
> I always wanted to try electrolysis rust removal and it is just as simple and effective as they claim.
> 
> ...


Electrolysis has worked great for my old logging tools.

Todd, try this for your '93 Toyota
http://antique-engines.com/trailer-electrolysis.htm


----------



## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Electrolysis on the Stanley No. 62*
> 
> I always wanted to try electrolysis rust removal and it is just as simple and effective as they claim.
> 
> ...


Looking at the LN youtube site I notice they had a setup demo for low angle jack planes. Think you would find it of interest.

Part one - Setup





Part two - versatility


----------



## bigike (May 25, 2009)

Blake said:


> *Electrolysis on the Stanley No. 62*
> 
> I always wanted to try electrolysis rust removal and it is just as simple and effective as they claim.
> 
> ...


blake i'll tell u homever let that 62 go was crazy i tried to get one like it myself but didn't have money at the time so i missed out but u got lucky i see.


----------



## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Electrolysis on the Stanley No. 62*
> 
> I always wanted to try electrolysis rust removal and it is just as simple and effective as they claim.
> 
> ...


Here is some info on repairing handles

https://home.comcast.net/~rexmill/planes101/handle_repair/handle.htm


----------



## Roz (Jan 13, 2008)

Blake said:


> *Electrolysis on the Stanley No. 62*
> 
> I always wanted to try electrolysis rust removal and it is just as simple and effective as they claim.
> 
> ...


This was great! I did not know anything about this process.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

Blake said:


> *Electrolysis on the Stanley No. 62*
> 
> I always wanted to try electrolysis rust removal and it is just as simple and effective as they claim.
> 
> ...


So how are the status?
Are you up and running?
Best thoughts,
MaFe


----------



## Blake (Oct 17, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Electrolysis on the Stanley No. 62*
> 
> I always wanted to try electrolysis rust removal and it is just as simple and effective as they claim.
> 
> ...


Yes, it worked great. Go to the next blog in the series, part 9. (Link at top of page.)


----------



## affyx (Jan 1, 2008)

Blake said:


> *Electrolysis on the Stanley No. 62*
> 
> I always wanted to try electrolysis rust removal and it is just as simple and effective as they claim.
> 
> ...


thank you for this post - electrolysis is my new favorite thing!


----------



## Blake (Oct 17, 2007)

*Stanley No. 62 Restored, Bench Finished!*

*Stanley No. 62*

After putting the Stanley No. 62 low angle jack plane through electrolysis still had quite a bit of work to do. Here is a "before photo" as a reminder:



In my last post WayneC commented:
I would seal the japanned area using a clear schallac. This will prevent further rust. 3 in 1 oil on the adjustment screw. On the knobs they look repairable to me. Glue and refinish. Given the value of this plane, I would keep the original knobs. I would use a good paste wax on the rest of the metal parts.

Well thats exactly what I did (Thanks Wayne). The Shellac looked great on the old Japanning. Even though it wasn't all there it re-emphasized whats left of it.

And I did decide to repair and refinish the tote and knob and they came out great. The tote was broken in two places (three pieces). So I drilled three holes up through it and drove 2 1/2" finish nails into the holes to reinforce the epoxied joints. Then I stripped the old finish off and applied thee coats of Shellac.

Anyway, here is the finished result:







*Woodworking Bench*

I also finished my bench! Sorry, I didn't take any more progress photos toward the end. But since the last blog I basically just drilled the 3/4" dog holes, made vice handles, and finished the top with Danish Oil and Wax. Here is the finished project:



Now its time to put it all together and make some shavings!


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Blake said:


> *Stanley No. 62 Restored, Bench Finished!*
> 
> *Stanley No. 62*
> 
> ...


Great job,Blake!


----------



## ratchet (Jan 12, 2008)

Blake said:


> *Stanley No. 62 Restored, Bench Finished!*
> 
> *Stanley No. 62*
> 
> ...


Unbelievable transformation! Thats a real worker now. Have you tuned it up yet to get to work or only cosmetic so far? I guess we need the obligatory shavings photo.

Nice bench too.


----------



## Blake (Oct 17, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Stanley No. 62 Restored, Bench Finished!*
> 
> *Stanley No. 62*
> 
> ...


I still need to sharpen it. Guess I forgot to mention that. I'll get you that shavings photo.


----------



## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Stanley No. 62 Restored, Bench Finished!*
> 
> *Stanley No. 62*
> 
> ...


Well done Blake. Looking forward to getting your impression as to how well it works in your shooting board.


----------



## Blake (Oct 17, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Stanley No. 62 Restored, Bench Finished!*
> 
> *Stanley No. 62*
> 
> ...


Shooting boards will probably be the next blog in the series… unless I get distracted by dovetail practicing. But I've always wanted a shooting board.


----------



## Alonso83 (Jul 14, 2009)

Blake said:


> *Stanley No. 62 Restored, Bench Finished!*
> 
> *Stanley No. 62*
> 
> ...


Thats a beautiful plane restoration, great job

Alonso


----------



## brianhavens (Nov 23, 2009)

Blake said:


> *Stanley No. 62 Restored, Bench Finished!*
> 
> *Stanley No. 62*
> 
> ...


Restored? More like a resurrection! These are the most fun and satisfying, though. Nice results. Can't wait to see some shavings.


----------



## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Stanley No. 62 Restored, Bench Finished!*
> 
> *Stanley No. 62*
> 
> ...


Blake, this plane looks better now than it did when it was new. Great restoration job.


----------



## Radish (Apr 11, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Stanley No. 62 Restored, Bench Finished!*
> 
> *Stanley No. 62*
> 
> ...


Great job(s)!


----------



## Timbo (Aug 21, 2008)

Blake said:


> *Stanley No. 62 Restored, Bench Finished!*
> 
> *Stanley No. 62*
> 
> ...


Very nice restore Blake, looks as good as new!


----------



## bigike (May 25, 2009)

Blake said:


> *Stanley No. 62 Restored, Bench Finished!*
> 
> *Stanley No. 62*
> 
> ...


oh man blake this came out real nice, i wish i got the one i bid on but my money wasnt right at the time. it was in the same shape as yours was too so now i know it would have came out real nice. now i get stuck with buying one of the new style ones from stanley, but still when i get my money right anyway u have a real nice plane there hope to see the work it produces?


----------



## blockhead (May 5, 2009)

Blake said:


> *Stanley No. 62 Restored, Bench Finished!*
> 
> *Stanley No. 62*
> 
> ...


Excellent job Blake. It feel great giving an old tool new life. Looks like new.


----------



## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

Blake said:


> *Stanley No. 62 Restored, Bench Finished!*
> 
> *Stanley No. 62*
> 
> ...


You might be interested in this restoration. http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRestorations/Stanley%2062%20Low%20Angle%20Jack%20renovation.html

Note the reference to the LN blade. Something to consider when you have tried it out.


----------



## OhValleyWoodandWool (Nov 9, 2009)

Blake said:


> *Stanley No. 62 Restored, Bench Finished!*
> 
> *Stanley No. 62*
> 
> ...


Wow that sure cames out great


----------



## Blake (Oct 17, 2007)

*First Hand-Cut Dovetails*

I finally got a chance to practice hand-cutting dovetails. This is the first time I've made a cut with my new Japanese dovetail saw and use my new bench too.

I started out with a couple scrap pieces of pine:



I drew the tails:



*First cut…* didn't follow the line so well. It will take some getting used to.



Here are all the cuts. Some are pretty good and some are pretty far off the line.



*This photo is AWESOME.* Because as you can see, I did a beautiful job at chopping away my tails (instead of the waste). Notice the X's that should not be intact…



*Ok, take TWO…*

Not even close:



A lot better:



Chop, Chop, Chop:



Not bad for 2nd try:



Cutting the pins went well. It is easier to saw straight down vertically then at an angle like the tails. Here are the pins being chopped:



It did take a little chisel work to get them to fit but not too much.

And here it is (first completed hand-cut dovetails)


----------



## Cory (Jan 14, 2009)

Blake said:


> *First Hand-Cut Dovetails*
> 
> I finally got a chance to practice hand-cutting dovetails. This is the first time I've made a cut with my new Japanese dovetail saw and use my new bench too.
> 
> ...


looks pretty good to me, Blake. I've never done dovetails of any kind, much less hand cut. With your skills you should be a pro after a few more attempts.

How do you flush them up? Sanding?


----------



## jstegall (Oct 9, 2008)

Blake said:


> *First Hand-Cut Dovetails*
> 
> I finally got a chance to practice hand-cutting dovetails. This is the first time I've made a cut with my new Japanese dovetail saw and use my new bench too.
> 
> ...


It turned out good. My first set I could one end backwards. After that I learned to mark the insides or outsides of my boards. I think I made a box…not sure. I practiced on maple because soft woods like pine were too hard to cut to the line. I never really got very good at it, but I did learn how to hide the gaps when necessary.


----------



## Blake (Oct 17, 2007)

Blake said:


> *First Hand-Cut Dovetails*
> 
> I finally got a chance to practice hand-cutting dovetails. This is the first time I've made a cut with my new Japanese dovetail saw and use my new bench too.
> 
> ...


you flush them with a block plane


----------



## mpatman (Dec 10, 2008)

Blake said:


> *First Hand-Cut Dovetails*
> 
> I finally got a chance to practice hand-cutting dovetails. This is the first time I've made a cut with my new Japanese dovetail saw and use my new bench too.
> 
> ...


Hey Blake,

They ended up looking not too bad…I am just about to attempt my first dovetails as well on my first project that I will be posting soon.

Mark


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

Blake said:


> *First Hand-Cut Dovetails*
> 
> I finally got a chance to practice hand-cutting dovetails. This is the first time I've made a cut with my new Japanese dovetail saw and use my new bench too.
> 
> ...


Blake,

Wish my first (second, third, for…..) attempts were this good!

Nice Job! Really like the little brass layout jig.

Lew


----------



## FlWoodRat (Sep 12, 2007)

Blake said:


> *First Hand-Cut Dovetails*
> 
> I finally got a chance to practice hand-cutting dovetails. This is the first time I've made a cut with my new Japanese dovetail saw and use my new bench too.
> 
> ...


*Blake,* you did a great job on those DTs. FYI, I find it easier to cut the pins first, then the tails. Paring blocks make it very easy to clean up the cheeks on the tenons and the pins. You can prevent the tear out of the shoulder cut if you only chop out half way, then flip the board and chop out from the other side. When you do chop out the waste on the first side, don't take it from the outside end of the waste area. Pare down from about half way from the end. This leaves some support of the waste for when you flip the board. Hope this helps and keep up the good work.

Bruce


----------



## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

Blake said:


> *First Hand-Cut Dovetails*
> 
> I finally got a chance to practice hand-cutting dovetails. This is the first time I've made a cut with my new Japanese dovetail saw and use my new bench too.
> 
> ...


Blake, those look pretty good to me. I have worked on dovetails a lot like I started on Sketchup- a lot of starting and stopping without producing anything that is anywhere near as good as this. This is an inspiration to "get back into the saddle" and try again.


----------



## Timbo (Aug 21, 2008)

Blake said:


> *First Hand-Cut Dovetails*
> 
> I finally got a chance to practice hand-cutting dovetails. This is the first time I've made a cut with my new Japanese dovetail saw and use my new bench too.
> 
> ...


Looks like a good first attempt Blake, now do that every night after work and you will be pretty darn good by next weekend. Great bench too.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Blake said:


> *First Hand-Cut Dovetails*
> 
> I finally got a chance to practice hand-cutting dovetails. This is the first time I've made a cut with my new Japanese dovetail saw and use my new bench too.
> 
> ...


Blake nice work, looks better than my first attempt try at hand cut dovetails.


----------



## Chips (Mar 27, 2008)

Blake said:


> *First Hand-Cut Dovetails*
> 
> I finally got a chance to practice hand-cutting dovetails. This is the first time I've made a cut with my new Japanese dovetail saw and use my new bench too.
> 
> ...


Lots better than my first.


----------



## gizmodyne (Mar 15, 2007)

Blake said:


> *First Hand-Cut Dovetails*
> 
> I finally got a chance to practice hand-cutting dovetails. This is the first time I've made a cut with my new Japanese dovetail saw and use my new bench too.
> 
> ...


I have been learning how to do this in my class.

My tips so far:
When cutting tails the most critical factor is staying square across the top. If you miss the angled line, it is not important as that will just be the template for your pins. Square up these cuts by paring before moving on to tracing your pins.

When cutting the pins, split the line on the waste side concentrating on a square vertical line this time. Then the two pieces will mate.

When chopping out the waste. Start on the inside of the joint. and finish coming in from the outside to avoid chipout.

Yours look pretty good.

One suggestion: make your tails wider than your pins for visual impact.


----------



## Blake (Oct 17, 2007)

Blake said:


> *First Hand-Cut Dovetails*
> 
> I finally got a chance to practice hand-cutting dovetails. This is the first time I've made a cut with my new Japanese dovetail saw and use my new bench too.
> 
> ...


thanks!


----------



## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

Blake said:


> *First Hand-Cut Dovetails*
> 
> I finally got a chance to practice hand-cutting dovetails. This is the first time I've made a cut with my new Japanese dovetail saw and use my new bench too.
> 
> ...


about half way down the letter

http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/newsletters/09-08.pdf


----------



## Blake (Oct 17, 2007)

Blake said:


> *First Hand-Cut Dovetails*
> 
> I finally got a chance to practice hand-cutting dovetails. This is the first time I've made a cut with my new Japanese dovetail saw and use my new bench too.
> 
> ...


Thanks CharlesNeil! Great newsletter. I like the block you clamped around your stock for horizontal chopping. I've never seen that before.


----------



## Blake (Oct 17, 2007)

*100+ year old Disston Backsaw ...RESTORED*

After some help from fellow Lumberjocks and a little research (here), I determined that this beautiful old backsaw is about a hundred years old (give or take).

*"Before" photos:*




























*After:*

I carefully took apart old saw and put the blade through the electrolysis process. Then I stripped the handle (which was covered in layers of paint and dripped varnish)... and applied Shellac. I also polished the brass. This is the result:







*On a side note…* Here's a little shop humor for you:





I also just finished a chest of drawers for my workbench. So all of my favorite hand tools have a really nice home now:



Happy woodworking everyone!


----------



## Kindlingmaker (Sep 29, 2008)

Blake said:


> *100+ year old Disston Backsaw ...RESTORED*
> 
> After some help from fellow Lumberjocks and a little research (here), I determined that this beautiful old backsaw is about a hundred years old (give or take).
> 
> ...


Blake, You did a great job on the saw! ...the chair got a chuckle and the drawers show a craftsman's tools well!


----------



## Julian (Sep 30, 2008)

Blake said:


> *100+ year old Disston Backsaw ...RESTORED*
> 
> After some help from fellow Lumberjocks and a little research (here), I determined that this beautiful old backsaw is about a hundred years old (give or take).
> 
> ...


Nice looking saw. I have that same exact model. I know that mine was made between 1917-1918, so your estimate is really close.


----------



## GMman (Apr 11, 2008)

Blake said:


> *100+ year old Disston Backsaw ...RESTORED*
> 
> After some help from fellow Lumberjocks and a little research (here), I determined that this beautiful old backsaw is about a hundred years old (give or take).
> 
> ...


Great job on the saw looks new!
Your tools are well organized too.


----------



## blockhead (May 5, 2009)

Blake said:


> *100+ year old Disston Backsaw ...RESTORED*
> 
> After some help from fellow Lumberjocks and a little research (here), I determined that this beautiful old backsaw is about a hundred years old (give or take).
> 
> ...


Very nice restoration. The little dings and knicks on the handle add a lot of character. The brass looks like new, what did you use to clean and polish it with?


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Blake said:


> *100+ year old Disston Backsaw ...RESTORED*
> 
> After some help from fellow Lumberjocks and a little research (here), I determined that this beautiful old backsaw is about a hundred years old (give or take).
> 
> ...


Very nice restoration.


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## bench_dogg (Oct 23, 2009)

Blake said:


> *100+ year old Disston Backsaw ...RESTORED*
> 
> After some help from fellow Lumberjocks and a little research (here), I determined that this beautiful old backsaw is about a hundred years old (give or take).
> 
> ...


Nice sticker


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## KentS (May 27, 2009)

Blake said:


> *100+ year old Disston Backsaw ...RESTORED*
> 
> After some help from fellow Lumberjocks and a little research (here), I determined that this beautiful old backsaw is about a hundred years old (give or take).
> 
> ...


I love old tools . You did a super job on the restoration

Thanks


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## OhValleyWoodandWool (Nov 9, 2009)

Blake said:


> *100+ year old Disston Backsaw ...RESTORED*
> 
> After some help from fellow Lumberjocks and a little research (here), I determined that this beautiful old backsaw is about a hundred years old (give or take).
> 
> ...


Very nice


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

Blake said:


> *100+ year old Disston Backsaw ...RESTORED*
> 
> After some help from fellow Lumberjocks and a little research (here), I determined that this beautiful old backsaw is about a hundred years old (give or take).
> 
> ...


Nice restoration and good save of a valuable tool.


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## brianinpa (Mar 16, 2008)

Blake said:


> *100+ year old Disston Backsaw ...RESTORED*
> 
> After some help from fellow Lumberjocks and a little research (here), I determined that this beautiful old backsaw is about a hundred years old (give or take).
> 
> ...


Nice work with the saw Blake.


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