# Alternative to sanding paint?



## azlogger (Dec 20, 2013)

This a little hard to explain…take a look at this photo and then I'll try and explain my question.








To start with, I'll explain how it's made.
The lettering is CNC cut into Baltic birch plywood, about 0.1" deep. Then I spray paint the whole thing, and sand the paint off the surface. And I should mention that the sign shown turned out perfect-just how I want it.
Now on to the question. The part of sanding the paint off is a real pain. It clogs the sand paper almost instantly, so I'm stuck with having to pick the stuck-on paint out of the sandpaper using a sharp object of some kind, or throwing it away and using new sandpaper. You're probably saying, "that's why you mask it off and don't paint that area!" Ya, that works. I can put some stickyback vinyl on the wood and cut through it. Works great, but we like the kinda rustic and weathered look of the paint-stained wood. 
So here's the question: What can I use instead of sandpaper to remove that surface paint? It's fine if I have to sand once I get the bulk of the paint removed. There is usually a lot of paint on the surface too, it just happens when I'm trying to get it down in the letters.
I'm not opposed to other thoughts, like if you can think of a way to cut through a mask and add that weathered look afterwards…or something…


----------



## NiteWalker (May 7, 2011)

How are you sanding and with what type of paper?
Sanding is how I'd do it.
I'd use an ROS and non-loading paper designed for sanding paint/coatings.


----------



## sawdust703 (Jul 6, 2014)

Well, you could try some stripper of some sort. there are several brands & types out there. I've had good luck with that. Scrape the paint off after the stripper does its job with a plastic blade putty knife, then do your sanding. The reason I'd suggest the plastic edge, is because it won't scratch or mar your surface. And the stripper will remove the paint faster than sand paper, & is a lot less work. And with stripper, you can put it where ever you want to strip, without getting it in places you don't want it. I don't know if I'd use an orbital sander, simply because you may get swirls in your project. I would use a sanding block, & sand it.


----------



## Slemi (Mar 7, 2014)

You can get some cheap airbrush and just paint the routed-out areas. It's not the cheapest option, but it's good I do it that way.


----------



## kaerlighedsbamsen (Sep 16, 2013)

Learn to use a card scraper!


----------



## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

+1 to the card scraper. You can use it to removed the vast majority of the paint, followed by a light sanding to achieve the same look you currently have.


----------



## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

> Learn to use a card scraper!
> 
> - kaerlighedsbamsen


+2. Sharpened correctly, it'll make for faster work, too. If you like this method, look into a scraper holder to save your thumbs.


----------



## NoThanks (Mar 19, 2014)

Put on a coat of your finish, (let dry) then spray it with flat black paint and wipe it off with paint thinner.
Then put on your finish coats.
I do this with lacquer finishes all the time.


----------



## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

The paint will have alot to do with it, if your using an oil based paint or even a latex, its going to gum up worse because it dries slow and remains some what soft for a good time, a lacquer would dry faster and sand easier, or a pigmented water base finish ..


----------



## macatlin1 (May 5, 2010)

If the sign is not too big, just run it through the thickness planer…


----------



## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

> If the sign is not too big, just run it through the thickness planer…
> - macatlin1


Then he has to deal with the paint gumming up the knives.


----------



## j1212t (Dec 7, 2013)

I'd go with the scraper


----------



## Earlextech (Jan 13, 2011)

Pigmented clear coat is the way. Card scraper to remove the excess, then sand with ROS. Also, it sounds like are you trying to avoid working? You're already using a CNC to make the thing, how little work do you expect to do and still get paid for "custom" woodworking? Not trying to be mean, I just don't see this as a problem. Sandpaper gets clogged, toss it and use a new peice. I apprieciate efficiency and sure, there's always a better way to do things, for instance, using the correct products for your application. I've been in custom and production cabinetmaking for 30 years. But if one of my employees came to me and complained about sanding, I'd hand him a broom.

PS I do like the sign.


----------



## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

It seems that you might get a similar result with a black gel stain. Brush it on, paying special attention to the details, then wipe it off immediately afterwards. Then sand if needed.


----------



## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

> Also, it sounds like are you trying to avoid working? You re already using a CNC to make the thing, how little work do you expect to do and still get paid for "custom" woodworking?
> 
> But if one of my employees came to me and complained about sanding, I d hand him a broom.
> - Earlextech


I can see your point, and the OP does say it's "a pain", but I think from a business perspective it would be a pain. If he can cut his time on this task significantly, he can turn out more product and potentially make more money, which is what businesses are supposed to do. Whether he's mass-producing this sign, or taking orders for individual signs, time is money.


----------



## Earlextech (Jan 13, 2011)

I agree BinghamptonEd. As I stated - "I apprieciate efficiency and sure, there's always a better way to do things, for instance, using the correct products for your application." And it does make a difference how he markets these signs. Example - "Custom Signs" is much different from "Custom Woodwork".

Also, using the right tools for the job. Picking at sandpaper with a sharp object is certainly frustrating. Maybe you would have better luck with a sandpaper eraser. http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2000271/8/Abrasive-Belt-Cleaner-2-x-2-x-12.aspx


----------



## azlogger (Dec 20, 2013)

I don't have card scraper, so I'm not familiar with how they act. Is there a chance it might break off small islands like the middle of the leaves in the corner? If not, I'll order one and try that. 
And this is a "mass production"...I usually do 3-5 a day…
I haven't been in this hobby/business very long, I don't know very much about finishes….......


----------



## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

I own this set and this holder and it works well for me. I don't think you'll have a problem with the leaves. The scraper cuts very lightly, and the angle of the hook to the work is pretty low. Scrapers are a good way to clean up areas of minor tear-out after planing, if that gives you more perspective.

The nice thing about them is you can sharpen them over, and over, and over…they're not a disposable item in the way that sandpaper is. I guess you could sharpen your way through the whole card, but that'd be impressive.

Edit : You can vary the angle of the scraper to the work, as well as the pressure applied to the work as well as bending the scraper, to control the aggressiveness of the cut.


----------



## NiteWalker (May 7, 2011)

Because of what you mentioned regarding a scraper is why is use a sander. A 6" ros would make quick work of the paint. And +1 on the abrasive belt cleaner.


----------



## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

If you carefully paste wax the flat surfaces before painting. Then the paint will come right off. You'd have to be careful not to get it in the engraved parts though.


----------



## azlogger (Dec 20, 2013)

I think it's worth reiterating-I want some paint left in the grain of the wood. So I can't do anything that removes ALL the paint from the surface, or anything that keeps the paint off the surface, or the wood will be left totally clean.


----------



## GregD (Oct 24, 2009)

Have you tried wiping or blotting the wet paint off the surface right after spraying the paint? With a bit of experimenting you might be able to get the effect that you want without sanding, or at least substantially reduce the thickness of the paint layer that needs to be sanded off. For example, right after spraying lay the sign face-down on a layer of paper towel (or even newspaper) on the bench. If that doesn't remove enough paint do it a second time on a layer of paper towel damp with the appropriate solvent. If that still isn't enough let the paint set up a bit followed by gently wiping off the surface with paper towel dampened with the appropriate solvent.

Edit: I would try an oil based stain. Flood the surface and then go back and wipe it off the front surface. If you apply a wood conditioner before milling the design that will reduce the amount of color you get on the front.


----------



## DaleM (Feb 18, 2009)

Use a sander with abranet pads. I use them and they do NOT clog up on me when sanding off paint or a finish. They will leave the paint in the grain like you want. I think they are exactly what you need.
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2005922/18734/Mirka-Abranet-6-Sanding-Disc-150-Grit-10-pack.aspx?keyword=&refcode=10INGOPB&device=c&network=g&matchtype=&gclid=CNH3wczCyL8CFasRMwodhjAAqA


----------



## azlogger (Dec 20, 2013)

Problem solved. I switched to using brush-on latex paint. I can get a wider range of colors, and while painting takes a few minutes longer, it sands enough easier to make up for it. It doesn't clog my sand paper at all.


----------



## JADobson (Aug 14, 2012)

When I was in middle school shop class we used a torch and burnt the top of the sign until it was black and then ran it through the thickness planer. No worry about paint gumming up the knives. Worked well.


----------

