# Barnwood Countertops



## spunwood (Aug 20, 2010)

*Introduction*

At the beginning of August, with the discovery of mold in my kitchen, I began building new countertops.

The wood for this work all came from my inlaws barnwood.

After getting the countertops glued up, I was interupted by life (teaching, UPS, kids, divorce, and more).

Where I left off, I had just gotten the sections back from a local cabinetshop where it was run through a drum sander…..

Well, FOUR MONTHS LATER, what a thrill to get back into the shop three days ago. I am trying to use this time off from teaching and the shorter days at UPS to get some work done.

I am going to document my work and would love your feedback.

If you would like to see the beginnings of this project:

Design & Milling
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/29230

More pics on Facebook 
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.257366100954927.70591.233428150015389&type=1

Some of the Glue Ups
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/29598

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.260330853991785.71111.233428150015389&type=1


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## learnin2do (Aug 5, 2010)

spunwood said:


> *Introduction*
> 
> At the beginning of August, with the discovery of mold in my kitchen, I began building new countertops.
> 
> ...


i thought you had finished the countertops, and had a matching shelf…?


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## spunwood (Aug 20, 2010)

spunwood said:


> *Introduction*
> 
> At the beginning of August, with the discovery of mold in my kitchen, I began building new countertops.
> 
> ...


That is so funny! I only had the shelf…now I am trying to finish the countertops that will match it


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## spunwood (Aug 20, 2010)

*Breadboards: Resources*



















I decided a while back to add breadboard ends to each of the four sections. These will add beauty and stability to the countertops.

What will follow in my blog is almost nothing original. It is mainly just a walk along. Here are my main resources which I highly reccomend.

Having never done this before, I got some great information from:

-our own GaryL
http://lumberjocks.com/Maggiepic

-an excellent how to video on making the breadboard ends from Popular Woodworking
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/video/video_breadboard_ends

-A basic explanation from Fine Woodworking
http://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesAllAbout.aspx?id=2978

-A good how to article which complements to popular wood working video. This article from Fine Woodworking goes into how to attach the ends. 
http://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesPDF.aspx?id=2334

-Fine Woodworking Video on Drawboring
http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/36327/how-to-make-a-drawbored-mortise-and-tenon-joint


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

spunwood said:


> *Breadboards: Resources*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thank you for the fine links.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## spunwood (Aug 20, 2010)

*Dimensions & The Tongue*

*DIMENSIONS*










Okay, so how big should the battons (breadboards) be?
How big should the tongue, the tenons….?

Well, I am not sure if there is a hard and fast rule. I went with a mixture of necessity, imitation, and inspiration:

1. I calculated the length of each coutertop section which I wanted to end up with, including space at the wall for movement.

2. I calculated how much each breadboard (-loss of tenons) would add to what I already had.

3. Then I made a decision on the ratio of tongue to tenons; on tenon to the outer edge of the breadboard; on room for play, such as glue, fit, seasonal movement.

4. I am not going to post exact dimensions

5. I ended up with a tongue that was approximately 3/8"; tenons that were 2.5" wide x 1" more than the tongue

*The Tongue*

Mind you, I already milled the breadboard ends to size, including a few extra ones, and two that are extra long to make up for needed space.

I was not ready to make the tongue on the countertop sections.

Why the tongue 1st? So that I can use it to fit the groove in the breadboards.

The method I used came straight from a Popular Woodworking video which I posted on the previous blog entry.

I will use the pictures to walk us through:

1. The first thing I did was to make a number of test cuts:

-to check the depth of cut on 3/4" mlcs the pattern bit
(which should be 1/3 the counter, or 1/2 the waste I need to remove)

-to test the spacer block I am going to use to set my guide block for the router to ride against

-to test my router offset (how far my bit is from the edge of the face plate)

2. After these test cuts, I set up my guide with the appropriatly sized spacer:

Clamping: 
The inner clamps hold the spacer and gently snug the guide block to the appropiate position.









after removing the middle 3 clamps, leaving just the guide or fence:

Spacer/Guide









3.I prepare for the first pass on the top part of the tongue

-I discover that the round part of my base plate gives me enough offset to use as a guide for the 1st pass

Round Edge










Round Against Fence










-I am careful to use the baseplate and router handles to keep the baseplate flat on the countertop, rather than tilting foward

First Pass










-on each pass I am careful to slow down at the exit area to prevent blow out.

4. I do the second pass with the square edge of my base plate (this might only work for my router which just happened to have the right offset).

Square edge used in second pass and pressed firmly against guide










Second Pass










you can compare this to the first pass again









5. One side is now done










6. I flip the countertop and do the second side

Both Sides










All done! 7 more to go.


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## learnin2do (Aug 5, 2010)

spunwood said:


> *Dimensions & The Tongue*
> 
> *DIMENSIONS*
> 
> ...


I thought i was so-o-o careful doing this on the casket i made, even using a depth gauge thingy with 24ths on it! yet i still took too much off creating the tenons and had to shorten the the entire project by 1/2 an inch!!


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## spunwood (Aug 20, 2010)

*Still Breadboarding: The Main Groove*

This was a pretty straightfoward part of the job. The only trick was getting a snug fit and centering the groove perfectly.

You see, I had foolishly milled the breadboard ends to exact thickness, rather than oversizing them a hair. This meant I had to be spot on!


















How could I perfectly center the groove? 

__
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content










The trick turned out to be to get close.

Rather than aim for perfection, I got as close as possible. Then with each pass on the table saw, I ran each piece through twice (once on one side, and once on the other). Flipping the side of the piece which was against the fence made up for any imperfections. Than I simple moved the fence one way or the other slowly until I had the fit I wanted!

I also found some termite work in one piece.


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## learnin2do (Aug 5, 2010)

spunwood said:


> *Still Breadboarding: The Main Groove*
> 
> This was a pretty straightfoward part of the job. The only trick was getting a snug fit and centering the groove perfectly.
> 
> ...


i was invaded by borer bees over the holiday! -post-carpal tunnel-op, at the scrollsaw with only my left hand…the space heater warmed them a bit beyond hibernation…fortunately, they fell into the scrap bucket (save for the poor fellow whose unfortunate meeting with the saw blade called my attention to the situation). i quickly used my left hand to drag out his cohabitants in the scrap bin and located a viable section of cypress elsewhere!


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## spunwood (Aug 20, 2010)

spunwood said:


> *Still Breadboarding: The Main Groove*
> 
> This was a pretty straightfoward part of the job. The only trick was getting a snug fit and centering the groove perfectly.
> 
> ...


ewww. These might have been borer bees. But I can't really tell…they didn't say anything funny.


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## learnin2do (Aug 5, 2010)

spunwood said:


> *Still Breadboarding: The Main Groove*
> 
> This was a pretty straightfoward part of the job. The only trick was getting a snug fit and centering the groove perfectly.
> 
> ...


ha ha ha!!


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## spunwood (Aug 20, 2010)

*Laying out the Mortises & Tenons*

I love using story sticks, keeps the human error out (as much as possible).

The black walnut was used to mark off the tenons and mortises. It was trimmed at each consective point of layout. You can see









my layout plan,









the story stick at work









a shorter story stick for the next layout









the story stick on the breadboard









the layout on the bread board









The layout on a panel


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## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

spunwood said:


> *Laying out the Mortises & Tenons*
> 
> I love using story sticks, keeps the human error out (as much as possible).
> 
> ...


Looks like a nice simple way not to screw things up … good looking barn boards too.


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## spunwood (Aug 20, 2010)

*Cutting the Tenons & Repairing a Break*

I cut the tenons in two parts, as suggested by the popular woodworking video.

A. I cut down the lines. I used my dovetail saw, but I am sure there are many ways to do this, say, even with a tenon saw.

B. I inserted a pattern bit into my router. I cut and planed down a piece which was the exact width of the tongue. This piece was also just slightly thinner than the depth of the shoulder of the tongue.

These dimensions are important for two reasons.
1. Getting the tongue right means the breadboard will fit snuggly 
2. Getting the height of the guide piece right means that when I run my router accross the countertop, it will not push the guide around.

I achieved the correct height of the guide by touch testing.
I achieved the correct width by testing for a perfect fit in the grooves of the breadboards (again avoiding #'s)









You can see that I also used a 2nd one of these guides to help me stop my cutting with the handsaw!


















I will not go into great detail because the popular woodworking video does such a great job. I am really just following it. But to put it simply.










The base plate sits on the countertop while the bushing of the pattern bit rides against the guide to give a proper depth to the tenon.


















The only part i did not show was using the chisel to trim the rounded ends on each tenon.

Also, one of the countertop panels fell off the work bench and split in half, though not along a glue line!









Thank God I could just glue it up.


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## learnin2do (Aug 5, 2010)

spunwood said:


> *Cutting the Tenons & Repairing a Break*
> 
> I cut the tenons in two parts, as suggested by the popular woodworking video.
> 
> ...


Okay, i need to get on the real computer & check this out. i have been tring to practice my joinery, so i can get better at making the caskets sturdy. i am glad you posted this, because i am always trying to brainstorm ways to make the joints as quickly and easily and precisely as possible with the tools i have. 
This looks like a great blog. thank you for putting the time in to post it, so that lazy folks like me don't have to figure out what the right search words are!


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## spunwood (Aug 20, 2010)

spunwood said:


> *Cutting the Tenons & Repairing a Break*
> 
> I cut the tenons in two parts, as suggested by the popular woodworking video.
> 
> ...


No problem. I have to say, this has been pretty intimidating, but so far I am satisfied…I am not sure I would call this quick though…

A spline & two grooves might be much quicker if using a router to cut the grooves.


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## 489tad (Feb 26, 2010)

spunwood said:


> *Cutting the Tenons & Repairing a Break*
> 
> I cut the tenons in two parts, as suggested by the popular woodworking video.
> 
> ...


Its moving along. Take your time and don't rush it. The counter tops will look great when they are done.


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## spunwood (Aug 20, 2010)

spunwood said:


> *Cutting the Tenons & Repairing a Break*
> 
> I cut the tenons in two parts, as suggested by the popular woodworking video.
> 
> ...


Thanks Tad, appriciate it man.


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## spunwood (Aug 20, 2010)

*Mortises*

This was the most time consuming part of the whole business. Though I drilled out the mortises with a forstner bit, they still required a lot of clean up. Perhaps too much slop in the drill press or the tenon was just slightly oversized. Anyway, I chiseled away, made the witdth and depth of the mortises a bit oversized for the purpose of wiggle/expansion room, and glue.

I found that I had to fix the mortises even after these pictures by drilling just a bit deeper.

Marking the mortise depth









The depth line made clear









Setting drill depth









Checking alignment before checking the layout.









Checking Layout









First wholes drilled beyond mortise width…exact fit is not desired or needed.









roughed mortise









Checking the Fit









fit improved









some more









other ones









These pictures don't reflect the best fit because I had yet to drill just a bit deeper!
side view 1









sideview 2


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

spunwood said:


> *Mortises*
> 
> This was the most time consuming part of the whole business. Though I drilled out the mortises with a forstner bit, they still required a lot of clean up. Perhaps too much slop in the drill press or the tenon was just slightly oversized. Anyway, I chiseled away, made the witdth and depth of the mortises a bit oversized for the purpose of wiggle/expansion room, and glue.
> 
> ...


Comming along so fine.
Look forward to see the tops when finished.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## spunwood (Aug 20, 2010)

spunwood said:


> *Mortises*
> 
> This was the most time consuming part of the whole business. Though I drilled out the mortises with a forstner bit, they still required a lot of clean up. Perhaps too much slop in the drill press or the tenon was just slightly oversized. Anyway, I chiseled away, made the witdth and depth of the mortises a bit oversized for the purpose of wiggle/expansion room, and glue.
> 
> ...


Thanks Mads, I am getting excited as I am approaching the finish


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## spunwood (Aug 20, 2010)

*A Stopping Point...Help with next steps please*

Okay. I have the countertops to size, the breadboards ready, and a few peg holes left to make.

I just realized that the sink will be on top of two of the breadboard ends









I have gotten a good fit, but I am concerned about water!









I only drilled holes in the two breadboards by the sink from underneath, but even with a good solid fit, water is going to be a problem.

I am thinking of putting a finish on the inside of the breadboards and on the tenons to seal them…maybe the varathane clear oil finish. Water will not be a huge issue except where the sink is.

Also, there are holes that I need to put epoxy into.
so here is my over all plan. Let me know what yall think:

1. Finish getting the holes and pins made for the breadboards
2. Put Varathane (or an oil) inside the 2 breadboards and tenons by the sink 
3. Get the wood backslpash ready to be attached by drilling pocket holes in back
4. Get apron ready
5. Sand all pieces
6. Attach bread boards permanently
7. Do edge treatment (eased edges or chamfer)
8. Make spline for attaching/aligning left sink to biggest counter area
9. Light coat of oil for color
10. Epoxy (SOME SMALL HOLES, SOME BIG ONES, & EMPTY SPACES AROUND KNOTS)
11. Varathane
12. Wax
13. Attach backsplash
14. Install countertops & glue middle of spline
15. Wax once or twice more with Johnson's Paste Wax

So am I just crazy to put the breadboards there?

I have learned so much, but will never do this kind of wood countertop again


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## spunwood (Aug 20, 2010)

spunwood said:


> *A Stopping Point...Help with next steps please*
> 
> Okay. I have the countertops to size, the breadboards ready, and a few peg holes left to make.
> 
> ...


Just to clarify, the drawing does not show a change of plans, that the sink will be supported by two breadboard ends whose edges (meating of counter and breadboard) will be exposed.


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## spunwood (Aug 20, 2010)

spunwood said:


> *A Stopping Point...Help with next steps please*
> 
> Okay. I have the countertops to size, the breadboards ready, and a few peg holes left to make.
> 
> ...


I have also considered covering the whole thing with epoxy, but would be concerned with movement, and also the look and texture.


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## spunwood (Aug 20, 2010)

spunwood said:


> *A Stopping Point...Help with next steps please*
> 
> Okay. I have the countertops to size, the breadboards ready, and a few peg holes left to make.
> 
> ...


Yes, I am aware that I am, as of now, just talking to myself


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## learnin2do (Aug 5, 2010)

spunwood said:


> *A Stopping Point...Help with next steps please*
> 
> Okay. I have the countertops to size, the breadboards ready, and a few peg holes left to make.
> 
> ...


i am having a litlle trouble imagining… i am guessing you are, ideally, wanting the breadboards to be just oiled/waxed…? would it be too weird looking to just epoxy the ends that are next to the sink? -or or spar varnish, i guess that is what you said. i like it the best when i want my outside items protected, but not shiny, but i have never used it on anything so precise as that.


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## spunwood (Aug 20, 2010)

spunwood said:


> *A Stopping Point...Help with next steps please*
> 
> Okay. I have the countertops to size, the breadboards ready, and a few peg holes left to make.
> 
> ...


Well, I actually want to put varathane over the whole thing, but I figure water is surely going to spill out from the sink and seep down the crack between the breadboard and the countertop. That is why I was thinking of finishing the inside of the BB too, or possibly epoxy something.


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## learnin2do (Aug 5, 2010)

spunwood said:


> *A Stopping Point...Help with next steps please*
> 
> Okay. I have the countertops to size, the breadboards ready, and a few peg holes left to make.
> 
> ...


is epoxy effective outdoors? or will it crack off?


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## spunwood (Aug 20, 2010)

spunwood said:


> *A Stopping Point...Help with next steps please*
> 
> Okay. I have the countertops to size, the breadboards ready, and a few peg holes left to make.
> 
> ...


Epoxy is often used on boats 
http://www.systemthree.com/

It is pretty expensive however


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## 489tad (Feb 26, 2010)

spunwood said:


> *A Stopping Point...Help with next steps please*
> 
> Okay. I have the countertops to size, the breadboards ready, and a few peg holes left to make.
> 
> ...


Brandon, I think any finish around and under the sink area is a good idea. Don't sweat it, a lot of sinks are installed in partical board with laminate tops. Only clauk is used to seal and they last a long time. Just make sure to mop up any standing water and if you want to pull the sink every five years to reapply the finish, you could do that too.


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## spunwood (Aug 20, 2010)

spunwood said:


> *A Stopping Point...Help with next steps please*
> 
> Okay. I have the countertops to size, the breadboards ready, and a few peg holes left to make.
> 
> ...


Tad, Can't tell you how much I appriciate it. That is very encouraging and makes a lot of sense (not sweating it, mopping up, and renewing the finish when needed).


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## spunwood (Aug 20, 2010)

*Pegged*























































Here are a few photos of the breadboards peg holes.


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## spunwood (Aug 20, 2010)

*Backsplash & Spline*


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## canadianchips (Mar 12, 2010)

spunwood said:


> *Backsplash & Spline*


Will be a nice countertop when you are finished. I put a hardwood countertop in my home 14 years ago, I used hardwood OAK flooring back then. (Can't show a picture, I SOLD the house several years ago)


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## spunwood (Aug 20, 2010)

*Filling Holes, Making a Mess, Using Epoxy*

This part of the blog should really be between the backsplash entry and the arm-r-seal

This is the transition I have dreaded.

All the pieces have been cut and shaped and glued and prepped. Now begins the finishing process!

These countertops need to be pretty waterproof, but I want to retain the knots, and worm holes. Thus I opted for 24 ounces of Clear Coat from System Three.

But that stuff is a bit expensive, so I first filled the holes on the underside with wood putty. This also helped the epoxy not leak through the wood. I cannot believe how viscous the epoxy was and also how thirsty the old oak was. It tried to leak through any way it could.

For some of the really tough spots to plug and large holes, I first used some 5 five minute epoxy. I ended up doing some quick pours that bubbled up, but otherwise had some awesome results.

The biggest pain was sanding it all down smooth after so I could give it the final finish of arm-r-seal.

The reason I had to cover so much of the wood is because I wasn't just filling knot holes but all the little nail holes, worm holes, ect.

Enjoy the mess! The last few pictures are of the start of the clean up.


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## Maggiepic (Aug 26, 2010)

spunwood said:


> *Filling Holes, Making a Mess, Using Epoxy*
> 
> This part of the blog should really be between the backsplash entry and the arm-r-seal
> 
> ...


Hey Brandon! Your tops look fantastic! Finally had a chance to go through your blogs. You've been busy. 
From the looks of things you covered all the bases. As for waxing the the top, my opinion is don't do it. If you ever want to refresh your finish (and around your sink and stove you will have to) any wax will prevent a simple scuff and recoat of the Arm-R-Seal. You would have to strip all the wax off an that would be tough with the porosity of oak. You found how thirsty oak can be with your epoxy fill. I assume it is red oak not white.
Great job.


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## spunwood (Aug 20, 2010)

spunwood said:


> *Filling Holes, Making a Mess, Using Epoxy*
> 
> This part of the blog should really be between the backsplash entry and the arm-r-seal
> 
> ...


Thanks Gary. It is a mixture of red and white…mainly red. That sounds good about the wax. I love how it all came out. No small thanks to your advice. Thanks again. Brandon


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## spunwood (Aug 20, 2010)

*Arm-R-Seal*

Well, I love how this finish went on. I rubbed it on heavy with a rag. Then with the same rag rubbed it gently in the direction of the grain. After each coat, I sanded with 600 grit.

Each side 3 got coats. I still had a few light lines and a few drips on it.


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## willmego (Mar 27, 2008)

spunwood said:


> *Arm-R-Seal*
> 
> Well, I love how this finish went on. I rubbed it on heavy with a rag. Then with the same rag rubbed it gently in the direction of the grain. After each coat, I sanded with 600 grit.
> 
> Each side 3 got coats. I still had a few light lines and a few drips on it.


I like so many, love that product. I've also found you can also just brush it on light with a cheap foam brush and avoid some drips.


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## spunwood (Aug 20, 2010)

*To wax or not to wax, that is the question.*

I think that a Johnson's wax cover might give this countertop some extra protection and also hide some of the imperfections in the arm-r-seal finish. What are your thoughts. I have some pictures here of it and also a picture of one of the drips…the last picture. Love to hear your advice. May wax it in two weeks.


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## canadianchips (Mar 12, 2010)

spunwood said:


> *To wax or not to wax, that is the question.*
> 
> I think that a Johnson's wax cover might give this countertop some extra protection and also hide some of the imperfections in the arm-r-seal finish. What are your thoughts. I have some pictures here of it and also a picture of one of the drips…the last picture. Love to hear your advice. May wax it in two weeks.


Go to your Rockler store and ask for this ! 
The more you work it the better the finish. 
"Liberon Black Bison Fine Paste Wax" expensive but it is worth it !


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## clieb91 (Aug 17, 2007)

spunwood said:


> *To wax or not to wax, that is the question.*
> 
> I think that a Johnson's wax cover might give this countertop some extra protection and also hide some of the imperfections in the arm-r-seal finish. What are your thoughts. I have some pictures here of it and also a picture of one of the drips…the last picture. Love to hear your advice. May wax it in two weeks.


I can not offer much advise on the waxing as I am still working on that whole finishing process. But did want to say these counters are looking awesome!

CtL


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## learnin2do (Aug 5, 2010)

spunwood said:


> *To wax or not to wax, that is the question.*
> 
> I think that a Johnson's wax cover might give this countertop some extra protection and also hide some of the imperfections in the arm-r-seal finish. What are your thoughts. I have some pictures here of it and also a picture of one of the drips…the last picture. Love to hear your advice. May wax it in two weeks.


did you sand for days?!!
Those look incredible!


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## jumbojack (Mar 20, 2011)

spunwood said:


> *To wax or not to wax, that is the question.*
> 
> I think that a Johnson's wax cover might give this countertop some extra protection and also hide some of the imperfections in the arm-r-seal finish. What are your thoughts. I have some pictures here of it and also a picture of one of the drips…the last picture. Love to hear your advice. May wax it in two weeks.


Wax a bit of it. If you don't like it strip it.


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## spunwood (Aug 20, 2010)

spunwood said:


> *To wax or not to wax, that is the question.*
> 
> I think that a Johnson's wax cover might give this countertop some extra protection and also hide some of the imperfections in the arm-r-seal finish. What are your thoughts. I have some pictures here of it and also a picture of one of the drips…the last picture. Love to hear your advice. May wax it in two weeks.


Thanks Clieb & Christine! I am so psyched about this project.
I originally had a cabinet shop put it through a drum sander, but after all the epoxy, I ended up sanding it down with 120 grit. It took a few days of sanding, but it really wasn't that bad. I sanded the whole thing to 220, and sanded the epoxy to 600. Arm-r-seal really does a great job popping the grain.

Thanks for the advice chips.

Jumbo, that is such simple but good advice! Duh, why didn't I think of that


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