# Router table top isn't flat. Need some advise.



## mbs (May 8, 2010)

I have a real nice router table setup but the top of the laminated table isn't flat so the router base is either proud at in some area or below the surface in some area.

I can run it through a plywood sander but I think that will just goober up the top. Short of building another top can think of a way to flatten it?


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## dkirtley (Mar 11, 2010)

There are adjustment screws around the base to make it sit level.


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## mbs (May 8, 2010)

The router plate appears to be flat but the table isn't. Adjusting the screws doesn't help. Believe me, I've tried.


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## JJohnston (May 22, 2009)

First, how bad is it (or better, "how is it bad")? Is there kind of an overall dome or dish, or is it bumpy?

What's under the table top? Run some beams across and use adjusting screws or shims to push up the low spots, and screws driven thru the beam into the top to pull high spots down. If there's already some stiff structure under there, use that.


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## Straightbowed (Feb 9, 2012)

I made my own table 11/2 mdf laminate it bucked on me too but I got lucky and found a new rockler for 20 bucks at a auction what a steal. I give up on mine I didn't take the time to pick my mdf for flatness so I put some oak runners underneath first I took a handplane after figuring the bowl out then planed it to make the runner proud and fastened them to the top its almost flat but now its a shop cart


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## mbs (May 8, 2010)

JJ,

it's .012" out and it's worst area right over the bit.

The picture shows the angle iron reinforcement below the table. there is about 11" between angle iron where the router is located and 8" between angle iron to the right of the blue dust collection box. The dust collection box is in the way of reinforcing the area around the router (unless I cut the box).

It acts like the router has sucked the table down in the center between the angle iron. The table top slopes off drastically on the left side of the miter slot where there isn't any support..


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## Straightbowed (Feb 9, 2012)

shims maybe


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## Rick Dennington (Aug 27, 2009)

It's hard to tell in the picture, but it looks like the top is only 3/4" thick (?).....you need a dead-flat top, and to get that, I used 2-- 3/4" pieces of MDF glued and screwed together to give me an 1 1/2" thick top….I laminated BOTH sides of the top to keep the top flat, and to keep it from expanding and contracting due to changes in humidity in the shop…..The thicker the better, I believe, and mine is braced up under the top to prevent any sag…...My router table is the "Norm" r.t., and it's been dead-flat for about 4 years now…....


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## DonnyD (Jun 12, 2012)

having same problem with mine thinking about using router planing jig to flaten it but i dont know? nice setup though is that a incra fence


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## mbs (May 8, 2010)

The top is 1- 5/16" thick. It is an incra fence. I think I need to run some cross bracing where the blue box is and use some jack screws to set the height of the top.


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## JJohnston (May 22, 2009)

Sounds about right. I'm not sure I'd worry about the table dropping off beyond the miter slot. Is "left" in the second picture "toward the camera" in the first? Is the router in the blue box?

You might consider deeper angle braces to replace the ones to the right of the blue box. "Deeper" meaning a longer leg that sticks down. They look like they're only about half as deep as the main one that goes along the edge.

But before you do any of that, just loosen the screws that tighten the table top to those braces and stick a business card or two in between there, on either side of that center screw, retighten and see how big a change you get.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Are you saying it drops down less than 1/64th?


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## mbs (May 8, 2010)

JJ, Your orientation question is correct. The router is in the blue box. the sags in the table is between the two angle irons where the blue box is. I need to push the top up, from the bottom, between the angle iron.

Several of you recommended shims and I tried them. They worked well to take out the drop directly above the angle iron. I still had the drop between the angle iron. I put put another pc of angle perpendicular to the existing pieces. I shimmed it in the center too which helped. The base plate of the router isn't perfectly flat so with all the improvements I still can slide .0025" feeler gage is some areas which is probably good enough.

A1Jim. You're probably wondering why I'm picking fly ******************** out of pepper. I would probably post a similar question because most of my work doesn't require that much accuracy. I bought this router table several years ago. It was so out of level it was unusable. I worked on it a little bit and made some improvements but when I would run a pc of wood across it I would get a stutter step in the wood. I finally decided to level it up and the first project I want to try it on is the leg and seat joints of a rocking chair. I like to have a tight joint on the rocking chair seat joints. First I cut the seat joints then I slowly sneak up on leg joints until they fit. Towards the end I'm only taking off a few thousandths. So, I'm looking for very square, repeatable setups.

By the way, on the first rocker I made used the sawstop to cut the joints with a cross cut sled and a home made screw adjuster clamped to the sled which was the mechanism for micro adjustments. I still had quite a bit of hand sanding to get the joint to fit right. I could use the saw again but I want to try the router table since it has a fence with a micro adjuster. I'm hoping for less hand sanding. If you have the tool you may as well use them, right?

Thanks for all your ideas. Now I need to try it out.


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## gerrym526 (Dec 22, 2007)

At the risk of having you tear your hair out over what I'm about to say-

I'd suggest building your own router table top. I had the same problem with a laminated top I bought-thinking the set-up with the miter slot, fence, etc. was very cool-until I drove myself nuts because the table wasn't flat. 
Built my own table top out of glued together 3/4 MDF, cut out the center for the router plate, then cut the slot for the miter guage, and have been happy ever since. It doesn't sag.
Just my two cents.
Gerry


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

I would suggest shimming it between the frame and tabletop, then retighten bolts. You can often force MDF to flatten out. 
Otherwise, does it affect the quality of cut?
If the problem is minor, you could adjust the table insert to be flush on the right (infeed side) of the top. That way stock will slide smoothly in the direction you normally feed a router table. 
Best of luck.


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## lazyoakfarm (Sep 28, 2010)

Contact Incra? Those guys are great and they don't like people having problems with their tools. Maybe they would replace it. I have never had any problems getting support from either Incra or WoodPeckers. Good quality tools and great customer service.


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## mbs (May 8, 2010)

I shimmed the table under the cross brace and cut a few parts. I haven't assembled the parts yet to know how good it's working. I will contact Incra and get their recommendation.

thanks,


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