# Epoxy for Filling Cracks?



## bannerpond1 (Mar 15, 2013)

What's a brand name and source for the epoxy which can be used with metallic flakes to fill cracks in wood?

Thanks for the help.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

You can use any of them that claim it adhere to wood, metal, ceramics, etc.
If it is a large project, HD has 4oz (I think) bottles; one for hardner and one for resin. I have used it on wood, metal, etc and it works very well. The trick is to ensure that you are using an equal amount and stirring it thoroughly but not too long (5 minutes epoxy)


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## BurlyBob (Mar 13, 2012)

You might check Jamestown distributors. It's a boat/marine outfit. They've got a couple of epoxy resin systems. I've bought a couple of things from them and they're very helpful over the phone.


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## Randy_ATX (Sep 18, 2011)

I have used this product for years. Watch for Michaels 50% off coupons and use for the larger sizes of this. Practice on some scrap to get experience with it. I like putting copper flakes in the void then filling with epoxy.
http://www.michaels.com/envirotex-lite-pour-on-high-gloss-finish-8oz/10178984.html?productsource=PDPZ1


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## BurlyBob (Mar 13, 2012)

I used the same stuff Randy is talking about to fill knot holes in a head and footboard. What I liked was that any air bubbles weren't trapped in it like the Gorilla glue epoxy I tried.


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## Tennessee (Jul 8, 2011)

Bob and Randy - that is an interesting use of that product. I've always only used it for the purpose on the face of the box. To build up a thick layer of topcoat quickly. Never thought of it as a filler. Might have to try that.

I agree that epoxy is somewhat harder to work with, especially when it comes to bubbles. Heating it to get bubbles to rise only makes it cure faster. Heating the product you suggest is actually in the instructions, if I remember right, since it makes the bubbles rise to the top and pop off.

Have to rethink this product for uses!


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

You can get bubbles out of epoxy by vibrating it as well…. can be as simple as hitting the form with a vibrating sander. Heating up the substrate as well as the epoxy will allow it to flow better and reduce the chance of bubbles, and a small torch (propane, butane, etc…) will pop any that rise to the surface. For regular epoxy (not the thickened 5 minute stuff), heating it should not cause any problems with curing too fast. It might knock a few minutes off the wait time for curing, but it will still take several hours to setup, and you will still need to let it sit for 24 hours to fully cure.

Any brand of standard epoxy should work, and almost anything can be mixed in to provide the desired look. I use west system epoxy all the time for filling cracks as well as adding accents and inlays. Here is a bowl I made that uses it for both (filling cracks and a black epoxy inlay around the rim):










The epoxy above was colored black using some of that powdered stuff sold for coloring cement 

Cheers,
Brad

PS: The largish cracks in the two bowls in the background were also filled with epoxy.


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

I've never had bubble problems with 5 minute epoxy. I use the 4 oz separate bottles.


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

As others have said, lots of things will work. As for a specific brand name, I've used InLace with good results:

http://www.inlaceonline.com/text/products/kits.html


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## Johnny_Yuma (Nov 29, 2009)

How big of a job?
Loctite 5 minute epoxy works great on small jobs.

The trick though is to warm both bottles BEFORE mixing.
I heat up a cup of water in the microwave, then let both bottles sit in there for 1-2 minutes before mixing.

Be very careful if you add heat after application. The outside can set up fast trapping air bubbles.

A better solution, and *my go to epoxy*, is No-Blush marine epoxy from epoxy products dot com


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## Finn (May 26, 2010)

I use a product called "Z-POXY" that is a finishing epoxy. It is much thinner than any other epoxy I have used. IT is so thin that over time this product will run out the other side of the wood if the crack is all the way through. I put masking tape on the back side of the wood when I apply the Z-POXY so that it will not run out. It does not bubble for me but does take hours to set up. Sands well and color can be added. I have used colored chalk for this. Z-POXY is usually available at local hobby shops.


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## MLWilson (Jun 28, 2015)

> As others have said, lots of things will work. As for a specific brand name, I ve used InLace with good results:
> 
> http://www.inlaceonline.com/text/products/kits.html
> 
> - CharlieM1958


Now you got me going on another new thing, Charlie. Website, BMd.


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## bannerpond1 (Mar 15, 2013)

Thanks to all of you who replied. InLace is what I was looking for, but I found some cheap epoxy at Hobby Lobby in a dual syringe configuration. It's GREAT!!! I used charcoal powder to color the exopy jet black and fill an inclusion in walnut. Great results.

I'm going back and get several of the two-tube sets. It's only about $3.50 and I did three projects with it.


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## TinWhiskers (Oct 17, 2015)

Warming the wood will cause the wood to out gas. Thus causing bubbles. I warm my epoxy by bringing to room temperature.


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## bonesbr549 (Jan 1, 2010)

I've used quite a few and system three is a good one, but also used 5min epoxy as well. system is the best.

I work mostly with cherry so when filling cracks or knotholes, I like cryo-cycolate, due to it's quick set time. I also like when it sets it looks like a pitch pocket. I also like you can use thin or thick versions depending on need, and the use of the accelerator

good luck.


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## bannerpond1 (Mar 15, 2013)

Thanks, Bones. I use cherry a lot and usually cut out the pitch pockets. Your idea might save me from making more kindling.


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## Knothead62 (Apr 17, 2010)

FWIW, custom fishing rod builder don't use Gorilla Glue as it tends to bubble and seep out. I use Two Ton epoxy but the others have great advice. Good luck! Another place to look at is www.aawforum.org as may turners use epoxy and materials to make rims, fill-ins, etc.


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## AZWoody (Jan 18, 2015)

As others have said, any epoxy will work, but another thing I use, for smaller cracks and when I'm using stone or something larger to fill in the cracks, i will use super glue rather than epoxy. It's easier to work with as there's no mixing involved and you can take your time and apply as you go and fill in with your material, then just squeeze over the top. Also, it is not as thick and will get into the smaller cracks much easier.


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## ThomasChippendale (Nov 6, 2015)

I have used 5 min epoxy with iron oxide powder to repair cracks in a Padauk table top . Before the epoxy hardens fully, say 5-10 minutes, I scraped the excess down with a sharp scraper and only had a light sanding left to do. Worked perfectly.


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