# Magic Molder-A Safe and Professional Molder Head System



## longgone

Those look really nicely made.

Years ago I had some table saw cutter heads that were from Sears and very similar to yours. I bought them back in the 1970's but I doubt the still sell them. They were strictly steel cutter heads and not available in carbide as the ones you have. But they only cost about $30 for a set at the time…


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## jtm

That looks awesome.

However, at $150 for the molding head + $140 per profile, that thing would get ridiculously expensive in a short amount of time.

The standard 2" crown molding profile is almost $280!


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## Alan72

I love that the guys blood is present on the table saw fence.


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## Kentuk55

Good stuff John. Work safe buddy. Don't want anything happening to that trigger finger.


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## Dutchy

This looks very great. A nice system. But the diameter of the tool is to small for the spindle speed of most circular saws and for that reason not aloud in europa. The minumum speed in europa has to be 40 M/sec (114 KM, 90 Miles per hour) when the wood feeding is done by hand. The reason for this is that the anti kickback system will get functioning worser. Also a none kickback system on molders and so on are not aloud.


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## Jim Jakosh

That looks like a sweet outfit! Good to hear about product that work!!
I like that locating dowel on the back side of the cutter. It insures alignment and that the cutter can't fly out if the screw is loose. I have an old Sears one that I never use since I have a router table but I made 10 sets of HSS cutters for it and only used one set once!

...............Jim


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## kiefer

I have looked at this moulding head several times and it looks like a great tool but up here in Canada there seems to be no source so next time I make a trip down I may just take a look and in the mean time the Craftsman set that I have will have to do .

Klaus


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## HillbillyShooter

Thanks for looking and thanks for your comments guys.

Yes, as I said, the system is not inexpensive, but it is top quality. And, no that is not my blood in the picture if you're referring to me as "the guy", Alan-just a red formica top for my ZCI in the first picture and matching red, Bessey clamp heads to prop up the molder head for the other pictures. As for the speed, I would only submit the last photograph of the great cuts I got in highly figured white oak-cuts with absolutely no tear out! There was no hint of kick back, but I did use a system of feather boards on both the side and the top.

I was amazed, and I'm very impressed with this product; but, what do I know? LOL


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## luv2learn

Thanks for the review John.


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## doubleDD

Looks like a pretty descent system. I'll keep this in mind. I can see why you would get quality cuts. Good find.


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## jinkyjock

John, 
this looks like a great addition to your armoury.
Good job on the Oak mouldings, nice smooth cut with no tear-out.
Similar set-up to my own cutter-head, locating pins, matching chip-breakers etc,
really good system.
Had a look at the video and the fence looks like a good addition.
But I am sure if you don't already have one, a shop-built fence is in the offing.
Some kind of Zero-Clearance insert would also be beneficial.
Thanks for posting. 
Cheers, Jinky (James).


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## Domer

Can you use it on a SawStop? You need an 8" Dado blade for the SawStop.


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## CyberDyneSystems

> Can you use it on a SawStop? You need an 8" Dado blade for the SawStop.
> 
> - Domer


I highly doubt there'd be a way to do it safely I'm afraid. I was thinking the same thing though as I read this. The diameter looks far to small for the 8" Dado cartridge to work. You may be able to "trick it" I guess by just having the standard cartridge installed? But you'd lose the safety features.

that said, I am interested in this!
I have always loved the "idea" of molding heads on the Tablesaw, but they have not seemed ready for prime time. In use they have been difficult and a little scary. This one seems to have finished the recipe quite well!


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## HillbillyShooter

Another thanks to everyone for checking this out. If you don't run out and get one now, it is something to keep in mind should a need ever arise.

Jinky (James)-Yes, I have a special fence I build back in the mid 90s that is prefer and use for this and router table use and any time I want to use vertical feather boards. I'll try to start my blog with a post on my fence system and a special feather board jig I also built at the same time. The dull red object immediately behind the Magic Molder in the first picture is a ZCI for that particular plug profile. You can see another ZCI plug profile here: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/102168 I have ZCI for each plug profile I'm using and find they really help in setting up the cut, left to right from the fence.

Domer-I just got off the phone with Jack Ballew and he confirms that you can NOT use Magic Molder with SawStop. But, Jack assures me that SawStop is the future; however, I'm sticking with my old PM66 for sentimental reasons, the quality and the fact I love it.

Klauss-I asked Jack to check on Magic Molder in Canada and he provided me with this link: http://mywoodcutters.com/ Hope this helps and also helps other LJs in Canada.


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## CyberDyneSystems

Hmm, so someday maybe for SawStop. In the meantime, we could dust off that old Unisaw and put it back to work.

thanks for the review and all the info!


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## HillbillyShooter

CyberDyne-Thanks for your observations and input. Like I already confessed, I have a preference for the older Unisaws and PMs; but, those were the standards for most of my life and change just gets harder and harder the older I get. John


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## bluekingfisher

I have seen the moulder previewed in a US woodworking magazine some time ago and asked the question of it's usefulness here on LJ at the time.

I was however a little disappointed in the response, all of which was honest albeit not positive. I now have a spindle moulder (shaper which takes care of all my heavy stock removal tasks) so I gave up on the idea of buying one

I would be a little concerened as to the safety aspects, all that heavy metal spinning just below your fingertips. So, in effect what we have is a shaper with a cutter block running in the vertical plane, rather than a horizontal plane. Is a table saw capable or designed to cater for a block with cutters rather than the intended blade. I'm sure there has been some safety testing or certification to ensure the compatability of table saw use. What, means of guarding do you employ? or is it supplied with it's own guarding?

I'm sure it has benefits over a router table in certain applications, I would just be very cautious with regards its safety.

great review though, thanks for sharing.

David


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## HillbillyShooter

David-Thanks for your input and thoughts. I too had thought about a spindle molder, but honestly couldn't justify one-and, believe me I really tried. My router table does everything I need and this molder system adds the finishing touch. Think of it as a vertical molder instead of a horizontal molder, only this one has the advantage of being a tilting molder. As for safety, I find it to be the best available and do not see any difference between a high speed profile running in the horizontal direction versus one running in the vertical direction. From my perspective it is a distinction without any real difference, but what do I know? Best wishes, John.


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## bluekingfisher

I can't say i am much of an exprt on the subject either John. My initial thoughts were that the SM is set up with safety paramount in its operation (excluding the idiot factor). While the TS has nothing more than a riving knife or blade guard for safety, which will I imagine have to be removed to make use of the moulder??

The tilt aspect of the TS does however offer a whole new range of profiles, which could increase the scope for designs without having to purchase extra cutters, that side cannot be argued against. That said, most incidents/accidents occur due to operator negligence or error and it would seem you have taken care of that with your new ZCI plates. I'm sure the use of featherboards, hold downs, push sticks etc will ensure happy and safe milling with the moulder.

have you had much of a chance to report of the effectiveness of the molder? I see you have cut several oak parts already. How do the cutters hold up? do they remain static in the molding head and do they stay sharp long enough to make them an effective accessory?

I thought long and hard about my spindle moulder too, accepted I could not justify it, but bought it anyway. I am very pleased i did though. As well as having the scope for the large cutter block it also has a collet for 1/2" router bit use, so a router table was excess to requirements. Except of course for cutters with small diameters which can chip the material.

BTW - absolutely dissappointed with the referendum result, we had our chance, now just more of the same.


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## HillbillyShooter

David,

Definite yes on feather boards and push sticks. I designed a auxiliary fence with ZCI for router bits and sliding, vertical feather boards back in the mid 90s, along with a separate feather board rail for horizontal pressure. I'll post these shortly so I can share my solution for safety.

Regarding effectiveness of the molder-it's great what little I've used it. The highly figured oak caused me great concern that it would be worthless due to tear out I anticipated. Surprised-smooth as a baby's gluteus maximus! So I'd say it is effective and with carbide blades I expect it to stay sharp. However, I did talk to my buddy Jack Ballew and he tells me he has had only one complaint, and that was excessive wobble-this was traced to the operator failing to tighten the set screw and after tightening, the unit ran smooth.

Sorry the referendum didn't turn out as you had hoped, but best always, John


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## bluekingfisher

Thanks for the feed back on the molder John. much appreciated.

All sorts of issues with the referendum…...........the fight is not over!


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## CyberDyneSystems

Still love my 1940 Unisaw running strong with it's bullet motor in the basement.
Worked with PMs a few times years ago and preferred it's tilt direction "most" of the time, and the Beisemeyer fence!

At work we switched from a 1990 Unisaw with Unifence to SawStop as it's an educational shop. I am VERY happy to have the fear of lost student fingers eased a bit. But I'm well at home with the Unisaw which has been my favorite for most of my life. And, it was the school saw for the first 7 years I taught, and using the correct techniques and shop made tools, no student injuries! (knocks wood!)

Again, thanks for the review. We make a lot of fairly cheap custom molding for shows here (theatre, scenery) with pine and routers. I now have this molder on my budget for next tool purchase thanks to your review. We will use this for sure! And for now it looks like it will be back in the old Unisaw.



> CyberDyne-Thanks for your observations and input. Like I already confessed, I have a preference for the older Unisaws and PMs; but, those were the standards for most of my life and change just gets harder and harder the older I get. John
> 
> - HillbillyShooter


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## HillbillyShooter

CyberDyne-I know you'll enjoy the Magic Molder and be impressed with the cut, quality and safety. I agree that the Unisaw is the standard, especially the older models. I used a friend's Unisaw for several years before I upgraded to a PM66, and was originally going to get a Unisaw. Thanks again for your thoughts and observations, John.


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