# Online Scroll Saw Class - Incredibly Fun Adventures in Scroll Sawing



## scrollgirl

*Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*

Hi, Everybody!

My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!

I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.

I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!

During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.

Everyone is welcome!










In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.

Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.

As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.

With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.

In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.

I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.

I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.

So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


----------



## sras

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


I always wondered if your avatar photo was fake or not. Nice to see how you really look!

Thanks for offering to teach the class. I will most definitely be following along for this class, but will have to delay any actual work until later. I am in the first group you mention above although I do blow the dust off my scrollsaw from time to time.


----------



## rance

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Sheila, My SS is probably 4 years old, and never has been opened. Still in the original box. Yes, I'd like to sign up if you don't mind. Do you take folks like me? LOL!  I've actually used the ones from time to time up at the shop where I teach, but that is not often so I'm not a total noob.


----------



## huntter2022

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Hi Shelia !
I started scrolling with a hand saw in school , now I have graduated to the EX21. I attend the seminar at Saratoga Springs . Had a great time there 
So I'll be following along with you and sure I'll proable learn something as you have said there is several ways to do things . If I can help any of the fellow members I'll be more than happy to help along the way if I can .
GRRRRRrr were the heck is that list of test aaa mean questions for Shelia.
Don't be afraid to ask question .

Steve and rance you are in for a treat 
David


----------



## littlecope

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Count me in Sheila!!
I've got experience but, like you, would be fascinated to learn how others have learned and adapted their own techniques…
Looking forward to it!!


----------



## Billinmich

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Sign me up,I'll dust off my saw and buy some blades.


----------



## jerrells

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Sign me up for the class as I always look for more instruction. What is the dress code???? LOL


----------



## helluvawreck

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


*Sheila*, I just now saw this. I'm in here for a quick break from carving under my tree and I'm fixing to go back out there. I'm sure going to be thinking about this awfully hard and will let you know later.


----------



## MsDebbieP

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


I'm in .. not sure how much time I'll have for the actual projects but I'm definitely following along. 
All of my scroll saw projects are posted here at LumberJocks. I haven't done many but it would be a shame not to put the machine to use again


----------



## CherieLee

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


I will be there too. Name the date and time!!! I have four scroll saws one of which is my main saw now. It is a Shopsmith and I love it.


----------



## Hacksaw007

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Count me in I need lots of help. You helped me buy a scroll say but it doesn't run itself, and has to rely on me….. Looking forward what you can do with me as your putty, wood putty that is.

-Mike


----------



## Transition

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


I'm in. I've been turning quite a bit, and can see some applications for scroll work (bowl lids, vessel trim, etc…) Could you incorporate a "round" project? And jewelry (ear rings, pins) from scraps is another area of interest. My scroll saw could certainly see some more use!


----------



## nailbanger2

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Sheila, you asked yesterday if I was going to join, and the answer is yes, in a way. As you know, I don't have a scrollsaw to dust off. That's the great thing about LJ's, you put it up and it's there forever! I'll be following along, and then when I get one I can review. Hopefully there will be a discussion along the way about pros and cons of different machines.

Thanks for doing this Sheila!

John A.


----------



## Gene01

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


I'm in.


----------



## majeagle1

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Count me in also as a dedicated follower for now. Don't know if I will be able to actually create a project as I am in the middle of a few deadline projects…. but will sure absorb with much interest as much information that you can provide. Thank you so much for doing this!!!!


----------



## Vintagetoni

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Perfect. I have the Dewalt on a mobile base & have been looking for some ideas & inspiration to brush up on skills & expand my knowledge base. My only ss experience was a week long marquetry class 3 yrs ago. I enjoyed the process, bought the saw (I am famous for my used tool finds), built the stand…it came with some blades of various types.

I need to learn more about what blade to use for which application, what material & how to prepare & how to learn using this saw for work other than marquetry. Also have been interested in learning intarsia. I think your idea to do several small projects to learn different techniques is a great one. I look forward to it. Thank you!


----------



## konaman

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


I'd like to follow along since i have a scroll saw but never used it.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


I'll be following along, but will be following along. However, I'm going to be a very bad student in the beginning. I'm in the middle of a very large project, as you already know, and will not be actually doing the project in the beginning. I will still be readin all material and watching all videos. I may learn something new. I will even keep my opinions to myself. 
As for stating the status of our scroll saws, as I've seen some have done, I will follow the lead.
My scroll saw is covered in dust too. The only thing is, mine is covered in saw dust from said scroll saw.


----------



## followyourheart

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


I have done some very basic scroll sawing and believe I have a lousy scrollsaw which jumps and bumps along and often breaks a blade. I pretty much gave up on it for that reason. If you can direct me to something you or anyone else has written to help me find a reasonably priced saw then I would LOVE to learn the correct ways to use it. It can add a lot to my woodworking projects.

Thank you!


----------



## CLSida

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Love to join in.


----------



## REK

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Well first I went to look for my scroll saw to get ready for school…..










Then I plugged it in to see if it works…..Nope…;(









I think my scroll saw is off to a bad start….;(


----------



## ShopTinker

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


I'm in and looking forward to it.


----------



## Joeshop

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Hi Sheila,

Thanks for starting this endeavor. I'm in and hope I can pick up some good ideas.

Joe Schoppy


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Wow! I am so happy to see all the people that are going to be involved with this. Even the people just coming to watch is more than I expected. I am happy that you are excited about this and I hope we will all have a great time and learn something in the process.

I will probably post a list of the most common blades I will be using and the basic supplies we will need by the weekend. This way it will give you all the weekend to collect what you might need in order to participate. Then we can get the ball rolling by the beginning of next week and start. Remember everyone - this is not an 'all or nothing' type of class. You can jump in or out at any time that suits your schedule or learning level. I am going to keep the lessons short and focused so that those coming and going can pinpoint which parts they want to learn. I think it is easy to digest the information that way, too.

I'll talk about saws in the next section when I talk about supplies. I suppose that is going to be the hardest part of coordinating this whole class is the many different types of saws we all have. Between everyone though, we should be able to tackle any issues that come up. A big thanks to those of you who have experience and want to help and chime in. I don't for a second think that I have all the answers. But working as a group, I think we are going to do fine with helping each other along and improving our skills. I always say I learn from my students every time I teach and this time will be no different I am sure.

So keep on checking in and introducing yourself. I love to meet you all and it makes me happy to see so many new (to me) faces and old friends. 

Sheila


----------



## Honeypie

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Hi Shelia!
Count me in! I need all the tips I can get ;-)

I am seriously thinking of getting an Excalibur scrollsaw to replace my Hegner machine, which has a lot of vibrations making it difficult to stay on the lines.

Edith (Bearpie's sweetie)


----------



## morax67

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


I'm in


----------



## Verna

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


I'm in, too. Always wanting to learn more.

Thanks


----------



## tomd

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


I'm in big time, I have one of those new shinny scrollsaws and don't have the foggyest idea how to use it.


----------



## Mickit

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Me an' my ol' P20'll be here. Oh…I don't have any apples…got an apple pattern;-)


----------



## Randy63

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


I'd like to tag along as well. I have a much used Hegner that has now set for years. Just a single speed model but it'll have to work. Still have plenty of blades, 02, 5, 7, 9, 12. 
Randy


----------



## patcav

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


I'll be following along too. My experience is quite limited. I've actually only sawed 2 very basic items that have been incorporated into other larger projects. My saw is nothing fancy, just a Delta SS350 that I got off Craigslist. Looking forward to learning more so I can do more.


----------



## MrsN

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


I'm in! I can always use a couple more tricks, and would be happy to share any that I have. Thanks for working on this for all of us.
MrsN


----------



## Bearpie

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Count me in as well although I'll take a back seat till Honeypie gets through! I am by no means an expert at scrolling and am willing to take tips and instructions to learn. Maybe I will even find out why our Hegner vibrates so much. Could be such a simple thing as an adjustment? The thing I noticed about the Excalibur is that only the tip end moves and it is a small piece while the Hegner's whole arm moves and perhaps this causes the vibration?

I'm in!

Erwin, Jacksonville, FL


----------



## Rob_n_Wood

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


I will join in, Thanks for taking the time to show us all how this works 
I have a Delta 2 speed, I am short on experience but full of excitement for the things that are a head


----------



## flintbone

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Please sign me up. I have a saw but haven't used it very much. I love to learn new ways to be 
creative and I know I will in your class. I look forward to it. 
flint


----------



## johnchoponis

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


I'm in.


----------



## NH_Hermit

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Me too. Now all I have to do is buy a scroll saw.


----------



## Rick13403

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Count me in too Sheila. I have to get the dust off of my 788 but the dust is from overuse!! As you know. I will be sitting but am not sure about the project as I am knee deep in scroll work as it is. But the Toler is interested in learning how to after seeing you in action in Saratoga.
Rick & Kathie
The Scroller and Toler


----------



## helluvawreck

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


*Sheila*, I have decided that I'm not going to commit to anything formal but I am going to follow along and see what I can learn. I'm going to do it the same way that I did with Marty and his chip carving class. I will say this = I've been chip carving ever since and have learned a lot and carved a good many things - they are mostly free form. I also want to learn to do things with my scroll saw. The reason that I don't want to do it formally is that I have to go my own way in woodworking so I need to be free to follow my spirit. I will enjoy following along very much.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


I am happy to see everyone participating on their own terms! That is what it is all about! As I said - ALL are welcome. Whether you are a silent observer or an active participant, I hope you all know at least a bit more when the class is finished than when it began. There will be no 'grades' when we are done, but your reward will come from within yourselves when you are able to feel a bit more confident when using this incredible tool.

 Sheila


----------



## helluvawreck

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


*Sheila*, I have decided that I'm not going to commit to anything formal but I am going to follow along and see what I can learn. I'm going to do it the same way that I did with Marty and his chip carving class. I will say this - I've been chip carving ever since and have learned a lot and carved a good many things - they are mostly free form. I also want to learn to do things with my scroll saw. The reason that I don't want to do it formally is that I have to go my own way in woodworking so I need to be free to follow my spirit. I will enjoy following along very much.


----------



## athol

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Hi Shelia!
Count me in! I need all the tips I can get 
Athol - New Glasgow-Nova Scotia


----------



## Dennisgrosen

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


as I presume you will not cover my manuel fretsaw or my framesaw in the work 
I will just follow on the sideline I´LL bett I can learn something new I can use on
my tiny scrollsaw with the lowest power smallest table ever made hardly able to do miniature pieces
for modell work

take care
Dennis


----------



## REK

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Hello sheila….I bought a new scroll saw….got a pencil….I'm ready for saturday!!!


----------



## NH_Hermit

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


I just bought a Shop Fox H5698 on line through Grizzly. I know nothing about its quality, but trust Grizzly's customer service. It was either this one or cheaper ones with poor reviews, or more expensive ones that were outside of the budget. I finished the mobile shop cart yesterday and saved a space for it on top. Now I'm just waiting for its arrival.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Thanks for checking in everyone! As I said, this is an informal class with no real attendance requirements, but it is still great to know who is planning on participating and learning a little more about you all. I will be posting the next part either later today or tomorrow, so keep an eye out for that! 

Sheila


----------



## gfolley

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


I will give it a shot..


----------



## jimmypaul

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Hey Folks :

Add me to the list ,, late as usual…..LOL … Been Scrolling for about 3 yrs now,, Ive got a cheapie lil RYOBI 16 " saw…... Oh an Ive bought several of Sheila's patterns in the past… very happy with them…. Y'all have a good day…................


----------



## Carolynne

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


yipee!


----------



## turtlepan

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Hello Sheila, Count me in as a "student" to a finer art. I have a 16" mastercraft, have been scrolling for less than a year, have done a couple of your projects from the Creative WoodWorks magazine. Hope to learn and enjoy more of your work.


----------



## tomswoodworking

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


i'm in.hope you cover degrees of cutting as well.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Hi, Tom:
What do you mean by "degrees of cutting?"

Sheila


----------



## Recut

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


A scrollgirl with a bow tie?

You bet I'm in. Sign me up!

Jim Severson, Richmond VA


----------



## helluvawreck

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


*Sheila*, I'll just have to tell you - I sure do love the cat pictures - not only are they a hoot they are very good. Did you do those?


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


No. . . I yoinked this one off the net. The black and white one on the next lesson is from a book that my grandmother used to read me when I was a child. It is called "Whiskers" and is by Marjorie Burrows. The book is from the 1940's though and it is just a delightful story with incredible pictures. I was fortunate enough to find a nearly mint copy of it on Ebay a couple of years ago and I truly cherish it. It is uploaded in my Picasa albums if you want to see it page by page. You can click here to go to it.


"Whiskers" by Marjorie Barrows

I love kitties and I also like to have fun! I hope this class can be fun and we all learn something too. 

Sheila


----------



## horsefly

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Sheila, count me in. I just bought a 788 with plans to learn how to use it. Your timing for the class is unbelievable!! I set out to learn how to do some fretwork for my clock cases, so just 
bought the saw, bought some books, now your class shows up! Am I lucky or what??
Thanks for doing this Sheila, I'll be here.
Bob


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


I want to reask the question, what does "degrees of cutting" mean. 
TomsWoodWorking asked this above.
I done an internet search, and the only phrases I can find concerning "degrees of cutting" as it pertains to scroll sawing, is cutting circles at a certain degree to make scroll saw bowls. I, on the other hand, hope you don't get into that. I say that becasue that is a specialized project that I feel would only serve to confuse some beginners. 
I'd say for a vast majority of all scroll work, you want you blade perfectly square with your table. Now that is something that I do feel you may want to cover. It is a problem that I have found a lot of beginning scrollers have a problem with. If for some reason you don't plan to and want me to, I'd be glad to write up an explanation of this. 
I find that having the blade square is especially important when stack cutting or cutting delicate patterns.


----------



## MinDan

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


I'm also very interested in this. Thanks for taking the time to do this.


----------



## tomswoodworking

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


i was only referring to the underside of the scrollsaw and the way a person can cut two pieces of wood to make one fit inside the other.there is a name for this but my book and my brain is on vacation right now so i can't remember the correct name. help please.


----------



## laverned

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


I am definitely in. Thanks for doing the class. I am new to scroll sawing and wanting to learn as much as possible.


----------



## CoolDavion

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


I'm in.

I've made a couple projects (posted here) with my old Craftsman SS from cl.
I've got a couple ideas of other project, but willing to learn.


----------



## jimt2099

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Hi Sheila,

I am going to follow your scroll saw class. My name is Jim tanner and I am from Jefferson, Ohio. My email is [email protected] I am an advanced scroller, having started scrolling about three years ago, and even market some of my wares on my Etsy store (www.janddwoodcrafts.etsy.com). I am always looking to learn more and better techniques on the saw as well as new mediums to use and incorporate into my scroll saw art. You can see some of my work on my etsy store. I am very impressed with your expertise and skill on the saw and I know you must have many tips and techniques to offer.

Your willingness to offer this class is a testimony to your love of scrolling as well as your desire to promote the art of same.

Thank you ,

Jim Tanner
Jefferson, Ohio

I frequest your web site and have even purchased some of your great scroll saw patterns.


----------



## B0b

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


I'm in. I picked up a huge old scrollsaw at an estate sale and have really only used it as a coping saw so far. I also need to figure out how to set it up correctly. I know there has to be a way to get rid of the vibration.


----------



## sawdustmaker101

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


I'm in. Ill have to dust off my saw, also… I haven't used it much. I guess I'm in the beginner class…


----------



## huntter2022

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


I am thinking that "tomswoodworking" is referring to segmentation .


----------



## Inspectordoug

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


I have a saw I bought from a fellow that was moving and would love to learn 
how to use it properly.


----------



## rkevins

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Hello Sheila, I found this today Thank you for doing this. I may not do the projects yet kinda hot here in Arkansas to be in the shop very long but I will follow, I have cut some of your paterns and love the orniments
Thanks
Kevin


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


I am glad to see all of you who recently joined. The good thing about a class like this is that you can go at your own pace and it will always be here to come back to. I am always open for questions too, so feel free to comment on any of the lessons if you have questions. This will be a series of small projects such as ornaments so you can learn different techniques that have worked for me. I hope you all have fun and get something good out of the class. 

Sheila


----------



## Crabbyboater

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Always in need of learning. Sign me up!


----------



## Davisjr

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Sign me up!! I will be following this series of blog's. I have owned my scroll saw for 5 years now. And never really used it. Only cut one pattern and did ok with it but not to my expectations.


----------



## lejon

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Sheila,

I joined LumberJocks after I saw that you were going to teach a class. I have been Scroll Sawing for about 2 years, but I know that you can always learn something new. After reading your first three entries, I already have picked up a few tips on scroll sawing, and also learned how to use Google download. Thank you.

One tip I would like to pass along, is that it sanding your wood before applying your pattern is a lot easier, than trying to sand a cut project with many holes.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


I always state in my pattern instructions that it is best to sand to a nice smoothness prior to cutting out your piece. You are correct lejon in saying that it is much more difficult to sand after cutting. You also run the risk of breaking delicate pieces. Some sanding after cutting is usually necessary, but if you use a fine grained paper and light pressure, it is usually enough to get the piece smooth and minimizes the chance of breaking pieces. 

Welcome!

Sheila


----------



## pauljp

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Hi Shelia,
I am very new to scroll sawing, and just purchased the DeWalt 20" model.
I bought it because I saw the golfer in Aug 2011 issue of Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and wanted to make one for a co-worker.
That is all I've done so far.
I found it difficult since it was my first and I don't really know much about it.
I am using the included blade, which I have no idea the type it is and it is the only one I have at the moment.
What type of blade should a beginner like me use?
I hope I am not too late to join in on this.
Thanks for posting this course.
Paul


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Hi, Paul! 
Of course you are not too late! The good thing about a class like this is that the blogs stay here so you can go back to them at any time. I posted part 4 tonight and we are just getting started.

In the next lesson, I talk a bit about blade selection. I also offer a blade chart to help you through and some other information that you may find helpful. I invite you to read ahead and see what you think. If you have any questions, please feel free to post them on the comment section and I will be happy to answer as best as I can. There are many other knowledgeable scrollers here too that have so far been a great help sharing their ideas and experiences. All in all we will all have a great time learning.

Welcome to the class! I hope you gain some useful information that will help you along!

Sheila


----------



## grampedstl

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


*Well I'm late for class but I made it!

Never too old to learn something new or different to make this great hobby more interesting!*

~~~GB~~~


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


I am happy you can join us! There is no hurry. Everyone is busy with their summer activities and I am going very slow so everyone can keep up. I am sure that you will have some valuable input to the class too. Thank you for participating! 

Sheila


----------



## maplewood

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Hi Sheila
Sign me up. Always something to learn.

Jim

North Bay ON


----------



## Moose82

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Count me in. I have just started scroll sawing and love it. Thanks


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Hi, Moose and Maplewood! Just jump right in! I am here if you need me with any questions or help. There are many others here who are helpful and very knowledgeable too! Together we will all 'conquer the scroll saw!' 

Welcome! Sheila


----------



## measure2x

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Hi Shelia,

I would like to join your class ….purchased a scroll saw (King Canada was the best I could find here in Fredericton) & have done some homework and read most of the earlier info.

cheers,
Terry


----------



## Dez

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


I will be one of those that is going to "follow along"! I am looking forward to learning so that this winter when I have more time I can put the knowledge to use!


----------



## hscrewdude

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


My name is Bob and I live in the south chicagoland. I have almost no experience with a scroll saw, but I would love to learn. Thank you for dedicating the time and your expertise to those of us that are fairly new to this.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Hi, Terry, Dez and Bob! Never too late to join in.

Where from exactly, Bob? I spent my early years on the South Side of Chicago in the Gage Park area. We were two blocks from the high school. Then, when I was a teen we moved to Oaklawn. Just before I moved here to Canada I lived in Tinley Park. Perhaps we were 'neighbors?' 

Sheila


----------



## DamnYankee

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


I would love to follow along as I am away from home for awhile. However, I will have to wait several weeks before I start. As it is a blog, I will start at the beginning and hopefully catch up.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


That's OK, DYankee! I will be here if you have questions whenever you are able. 

Sheila


----------



## becikeja

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


I just saw this. I'll get caught up in a couple of days. Thanks for doing this, I hope to learn a lot.


----------



## PreacherDave

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Hi, Sheila. My name is David Harn. I bought my scroll saw some months ago because I needed to make some gears for a project I was working on and couldn't afford the recommended band saw. It worked great for that project, so I've gotten into it a lot more. Now, I'm doing 3D and looking forward to Inlays, Intarsia, and Marquetry once I have built a bit more confidence. (And a bit more time between more "major" woodworking projects.)


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Welcome to the class Dave! I hope that you find some useful information that you can use with your other scroll sawing applications. I think the scroll saw is a very versatile tool and you can use it for a lot more than just fretwork. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask and I will help you or some of the others that are following will help too.

Take care, Sheila


----------



## PreacherDave

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Thank you Sheila. I haven't read all of the lessons yet. Just got hooked up last night. Scroll sawing is indeed a lot of fun and a great way to get gifts on short notice if you've forgotten a birthday or other special day. (Remember the anniversaries, guys.)


----------



## bat

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


I just found this by accident and think I'll follow along at a snails pace if it's ok.

I picked up a scroll saw (dw788) from the local craigslist for a song and a dance that had been sitting in the rain and the top is rusted. I picked up some Evapo Rust to use on it and this should motivate me to get going.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Welcome, Bat!

I hope you enjoy the class. Let me know if you need any help with anything. 

Sheila


----------



## pisdoff

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


I'm in! I have a Dewalt and it's pretty much supposed to be decent, but for the life of me I can't get this thing to stop shaking!
I guess what i would like to get out of the class is proper blades to use, tensioning tips and the best way to cut closely and accurately to minimize sanding.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Welcome, glassman! Let me know if you have any questions and I will be happy to help. Enjoy the lessons!

 Sheila


----------



## MasterSergeant

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


A lot late but I catch up.


----------



## huntter2022

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


welcome to the classes the more the merrier


----------



## AlanG

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


I'm in. I'd be interested in SS for marquetry and also tips for cutting thick wood for stacked laminated bowls a la Carol Rothman.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Thank you for joining in, Carol. I am still planning to add on a couple of classes and I will try to include the topics you mentioned. In the mean time, let me know if you have any questions.

Sheila


----------



## shortfinger

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Hi scrollgirl I'm in
Love your work
I see you on another site.
JP


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Thanks, JP! Same goes for you too (and anyone else who follows!) Be sure to ask me if you have any questions or comments. There are so many people here that are willing to help and contribute. Have fun!

Sheila


----------



## JoeLyddon

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Count me in…

Don't have a decent saw yet… but, will toward the 1st of the year…

I would eventually like to get into a little Marquetry… COOL stuff!

For starters, just the simple scroll saw outlines with some internal work (but not getting carried away).

I like the technique of using a scroll saw kerf to act as a line in the design…


----------



## wyrob

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Just received your email about this class last night. sign me up, i can dust off the scroll saw in a few minutes. I know i have a dewalt because i can see the yellow part of the saw. Looking forward to learning more techniques and tips.
Steve


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Well, welcome to the class, Steve! I haven't posted a lesson in quite a while, but I am here to answer any questions you may come across. 

Sheila


----------



## JoeLyddon

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Still do NOT have a good Scroll Saw…
... the Sweet Saw I was expecting has turned out to be NOT so sweet…
... still working on it… Does NOT look good.
This 2×4 fun contest has me busy right now+.


----------



## kop

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


I am so glad I found this site, I am a self taught scroll sawyer with a really cheap and nasty scroll saw but I know with help from you all I can turn out better projects so count me in.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Glad to have you on board! Just ask away if you have any questions. Hopefully, you will like scrolling so much that you will want to invest in an upgrade and get a better saw later on. There are many available on places like Craig's List I hear and you just need to be patient and something will come your way. Thank you for joining and have fun!

Sheila


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Welcome Kop.
There's nothing wrong with a cheap and nasty scroll saw. I started scrolling with a cheap Ryobi, and nasty might be a good descriptive word for that piece of crap too. 
When you get ready to step up, it all depends on what you want and your budget. If you can afford it, and based on the reviews I've read, and suggestions of people I respect, such as Sheila and Steve Goode, the Excaliber is the way to go. They are a little pricey, and I'm not sure I'm impressed with some of the features. I'll tell you what I am extremely impressed with though (based on what I've read again) is the customer service. There is no other saw on the market that I know of that is stood behind like the Excaliber. That means so much these days. If I could afford it, I'd have one.
On the other hand, if the best is not in the cards for you (it wasn't for me) then you may have to go a different route. I am currently scrolling with an entry level Delta, which to me is still better than some of the other options based on the features. I am looking though for an older Delta that I can purchase used. They were built to be completely rebuildable and I have the skills and knowledge to rebuild it to like new condition.

You mentioned turning out better projects. My suggestion on that front is always the same. Take it one cut at a time my friend.


----------



## Richforever

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Sheila,
This is exactly what I need. Just bought an Excalibur 16 but haven't used it yet.
I'd like to be able to make ogee bracket feet for cabinets plus other architectural details.
Thanks for doing this!


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


You are very welcome, Rich. If you have any questions at all, just let me know and I will be happy to help you. 

Have fun!

Sheila


----------



## ssnewbie

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Hi Sheila, know I'm late joining but really looking forward to going through all the existing posts and any future ones. Am a total newbie to Scroll Sawing, don't even have it yet (On order). I am an experienced woodworker but never used a scroll saw. 
Initially ordered the saw to help make "magic boxes - puzzles" easier than current hand method, but having discovered the wealth of projects available to me whilst investigating scroll sawing I can't wait to receive my brand new shiny SS.
Thanks for your videos and this blog. Very informative.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Thanks, Steve! I hope you enjoy the class. Let me know if you have any questions and I will be happy to help you.

Sheila


----------



## beth75

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Hi Sheila! my husband bought a ss for himself a few months back and I decided to try it out, I'm hooked! I am a stay at home mom and had never touched a scroll saw before but decided to just jump right in and try it out. For my first project I decided to cut out letters to put my daughters names on their walls, my second project was a little more difficult but I think I did pretty well. I am looking forward to your classes so that I can learn some techniques and maybe someday get good enough to make a profit.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Hi, Beth! Thank you for joining us! I am happy that you have discovered how much fun scrolling is! I am glad you joined in on the class and with a little practice, you will find that things will get easier and easier. I hope you enjoy it and if you have any questions along the way, just ask!

Sheila


----------



## PopsShopGa

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Glad I joined Lumberjocks last week. Always looking for new ideas and when I saw your class, just have to do it. Have cut several of your designs and love them. Hope I'm not too late.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


In cyberland, NO ONE is late, Fred! Welcome to the class! If you have any questions, just let me know. I hope you enjoy the journey and learn a little bit too! 

Sheila


----------



## lowellmk

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Hi -

Not sure if you are still requesting people to sign up….but here I am! I'm totally new to scroll sawing and I just received my Excalibur 21. It's now on the stand and ready for action.

Looking forward to catching up with the class.

L


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Of course you can join, Lowellmk! I am always here to answer any questions or help you out, as are the others who already commented. I hope you enjoy the class and get something out of it! 

Sheila


----------



## otindashop

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Sheila:

Thanks for having this class. Sign us up! We just found a Hegner Scrolls saw, the 18" variable speed on CL and got it. What a treat! My wife and I are looking forward to learning how to use it and make some good stuff together with your class.

That is one sweet little saw the Hegner!

Burt and Laura (Plus Buddy the Wonder Dog)


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Hi, Burt and Laura (and Buddy!) I hope you enjoy the lessons! Most important, I hope you all have fun. 

Welcome!

Sheila


----------



## jake86

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Beter late then never.

Hey Scroll Girl! You still there?

Been thinking of getting a SS for some time and have been checking the Internet to see if I could pick up some pointers. Also, have sent awaLy for a bunch of books and Mag's. Then I stumbled on some of your videos on YOUTUBE which pointed me to LUMBERJOCKS. I do believe your classes will be just the thing for me.

Thanks


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Yeppers, John! Still here! Welcome to the class! If you have any questions or need any advice, be sure to ask. There are lots of people here besides myself that are great at giving lots of different answers and points of view. I hope you enjoy it. 

Sheila


----------



## nancyann

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Sign me up Sheila.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Hi, Nancy! I just answered on your other post. Welcome to the class. If you have any questions at all, please ask. You can ask me here so everyone can benefit from your questions or email me and I will be happy to help you out. My email is [email protected] if you want a private answer. I hope you have fun and learn a lot! 

Sheila


----------



## byrdman61

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Hi Sheila. I would really like to join your class. Harry byrdman61 slc


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Welcome, Harry!  I hope you enjoy the class! 

Sheila


----------



## IanBfromWales

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Hi Sheila, I'd like to join your classes too. I am a complete newbie still looking at saws and trying to find the one for my small workshop. Looking forward to getting involved.

Ian


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Hi, Ian! I am glad you are going to try it out. Just let me know if you have any questions and I will do my best to help you. 

Sheila


----------



## SteveKnnn

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Well coming late to this series from a link on http://www.scrollsawer.com/forum/ but just so you know I will follow this thread.

My SS is a DW788 about 15 months old. I have been using it a consider myself an advanced beginner.

I am Steve in Richmond VA


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Welcome, Steve! There is no time limit on the class so you are welcome to ask questions any time.  I hope you enjoy it!

Sheila


----------



## saminmn

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Hi Sheila, Sign me up!

Looking forward to your class. I Have gotten into Woodworking as a hobby the past couple of years. I have a limited shop with a ShopSmith and some of its add on tools, like belt sander, band saw, etc. This week I bought a ShopSmith 20" Scroll Saw. It is on its own stand/motor as opposed to hooking up to the ShopSmith Mark 5, which is another option ShopSmith offers. So with my new SS SS and me with no experience, your class will be just the ticket!

Thanks for having done the class. It is most appreciated.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Hi, Sam and welcome to the class. I hope it helps you figure things out a bit and gets you started with having fun and scroll sawing. Remember if you have any questions, I will be happy to help you. You can post them here too, as there are many people that are here that offer different and valuable advice. 

Have fun and enjoy your new saw!

Sheila


----------



## MarkSr

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Hi Scrollgirl, I do have a scroll saw, and it is plugged in and there it sits. Now I need to turn it on and use it, OH YEAH, I forgot, I don't know how to use it. I've made some cuts but I really don't know the scroll saw. I have a very old Craftsman, about late 60's or early 70's, but she works great, as far as I know. The blade does go up and down and runs nice and quiet. So I guess I can use all the help I can get and would love to join in on your classes. Thanks for taking the time use new guys.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Welcome to the class, Mark! Never too late to learn! Be sure to ask if you have any questions and also read the previous comments. There were some pretty great people here that helped out! Have fun! 

Sheila


----------



## LouisFL

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Sign me up please. I am a complete newbie. Have saw blades and wood, just need knowledge.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Welcome, Louis! It is an ongoing class. If you have any questions, just ask away. I hope you enjoy your scroll saw and I hope these lessons help you. 

Sheila


----------



## clamug

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Hi Sheila, I'm Claudia from Argentina, I'm glad to meet you and very happy to have found this course on the web. Sorry about my English is not very good and often need to resort to the translator, especially to write not so much to read. My experience with the scroll saw is only with the Dremel, but something helps me to gain practical, I am looking for a real scroll saw but here in my country we do not have many options, Dewalt does not bring the saw to our country and Excalibur does not exist. So I'm trying to acquire all the theorical knowledge that I can start to practice. Thanks for being.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Welcome, Claudia.  I hope you enjoy the class.

Sheila


----------



## Peg5273

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


I am following. My name is Peggy. Love SS bought my ss a month ago and love it. Thanks Shiela


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Hi, Peggy! Welcome to our online class. If you have any questions, just ask! 

Sheila


----------



## dustyoldman

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


I just wish people would allow me to really me to retire to my shop and scroll saw .I love the freedom of creating with the scroll saw . and i,m always willing to learn new tricks ( self taught so I know that I do things probable wrong ) so i will be there as much as possible .


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Welcome! I hope that this class gives you some other choices in how you do things.  I always say there are several paths to a single destination, and I feel that applies here. Have fun and enjoy!

Sheila


----------



## KenStar

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Hi Shiela,
I've been trying to send you an e-mail at the web address shown on you ShielaLandryDesigns web page. But I keep getting a permanent error for some reason. Is there some way I can send this or do I need to post it here.
For the past couple of weeks I've been eating, drinking, and sleeping scroll sawing. Primarily on your on-line class (including practicing). 
Thanks,
KenStar 
[email protected] net


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Good morning, Ken:

I am not understanding why you aren't getting through. My email is [email protected] I will go check on the site and make sure it is correct, but I receive messages all the time from people from the site.I will be happy to answer you.  Sheila


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


You know, Ken. It is not opening in a new window as it should. It is the correct address, though. I don't know the problem with it, as I checked from the back side and all is well. Maybe it is something with the site server.

The address is correct, though so if you copy and paste it into your email server it will get to us. I put a note on the contact page so others can do the same if necessary. Thanks for letting me know. 

Sheila


----------



## eburk

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Well, I am a little late for class. Started scrolling on a craftsman in 1999, moved up to a Hawk 4 in 2006, but really have not done much with it since 2008. It became a table for my shop, rather than a tool I used. Now in 2017 time to uncover the scroll saw, replace some parts and add it to my favored list of tools with my lathe.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Better late than never!  I hope you enjoy the lessons!

Sheila


----------



## otindashop

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Hi Sheila,
I'd like to join your class. Have done a little scroll sawing but not a lot. I like it and would like to know about more techniques and projects.
Laura R.


----------



## otindashop

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!





> Hi Sheila,
> I d like to join your class. Have done a little scroll sawing but not a lot. I like it and would like to know about more techniques and projects.
> Laura R.
> 
> - otindashop


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Thank you. Just follow along with the blogs.  I hope you have fun.

Sheila


----------



## GeorgeFam

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Greetings,

I'm a brand new beginner, who was happy to find some of your YouTube video segments online, which led me to your class. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and expertise with the community. I'm looking forward to learning how to best get started using and creating (and then sharing what I've learned with my Grandchildren).


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


You are very welcome.  I am glad you find them helpful! 

Sheila


----------



## spiritofscouse

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Hello i jsut found this site whilst doing a search for scroll saw online help. Id liek to sign in.


----------



## scrollgirl

*Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*

Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.










I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.

With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!

But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!

I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.

I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at

www.scrollsaws.com

Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.

So let's get on with the supply list:

I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.

Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:

Olson Blade Chart

You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )

I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.

Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)

My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.

As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.

#2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
#2 Regular reverse-tooth
#3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
#5 Regular reverse-tooth
#9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)

I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.

The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.

You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.










Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.

The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.

Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!

I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.

Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


----------



## Mickit

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


----------



## MrsN

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


Menards stores carry Olsen scroll saw blades and some Ace Hardware stores do as well.


----------



## Carolynne

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


Run stuff!!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


I don't use Olson blades. Since it is your class though, I won't get into the whole blade brand thing. I promise I do have a point to all this though.
Olson does make some great blades. However, I found out the hard way that the quality of Olson blades is not the same from all sources when ordering online. As a matter of fact, I know for a fact that there are even some crooked ebay sellers repackagind cheaper brand blades as Olson blades (which they aren't in some cases) and selling them as such.
So my question is, where do you get your blades from Sheila? 
Many stores sell Olson blades in most major U.S. cities. However, no matter what brand you use, it is usually cheaper to buy your blades by the gross online. That's 12 dozen blades for one price. I don't know about all stores, but many where I live will really get you. They have packs of blades that aren't even a dozen. It's written in very small print near the bottom of the package, "contains six blades". 
The reason I find this important is because if anybody participating in this class really gets into scrolling as much as me, you'll be wasting your time buying by the dozen locally anyway. Buying by the gross is the way to go. Keep them dry and you'll use them all eventually. I usually buy at least two gross at a time.
I hope you don't mind me jumping in here on some things Sheila.


----------



## CherieLee

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


I have all my supplies on hand and waiting!


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


Thanks for the apple Mickey! And I appreciate the info, MrsN. Since I am not longer in the US, I will need help like that so people will be able to find things easier.

William - I do get most of my blades online, as I live in a rural area. Seyco is a good place to get them. If you have any questions about things, Ray is the go to guy and usually has (or can find) the answer.

i have also ordered them from The Wooden Teddy. They are family owned and have fast and friendly service.

You can get them directly from Olson too. You can contact them if you are in a different country and who in their area sells their blades. I recently had a customers who lived in Europe and I was able to help them find them.

I do find that the blades you use makes a difference.

 Sheila


----------



## huntter2022

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


Like William , I don't use Olson Blades , I would suggest you try different blades . As blade is a personal preference and choose the blade that works best for you and your saw.
The top blades I have heard of are

Flying Dutchman , http://www.mikesworkshop.com/blades.htm
in Germany , http://www.laubsaegen247.de/html/sageblatter.html

Pegus
http://bensscrollsaw.com/

Olson , http://www.scrollit.com/

David 
PS Don't forget the homework he did a great job on it.


----------



## huntter2022

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


Mickey , You trying to butter the teacher up already LOL


----------



## NH_Hermit

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


I got notice from Grizzly that my new saw has been shipped, and I'm as excited as a school boy waiting for Christmas break. I'm off to Lowe's with my school supplies shopping list.

BTW Sheila, thank you for doing this. As a former junior college instructor, I know this takes a lot of time and preparation on your part. Your efforts are greatly appreciated.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


Thank you Sheila. Next time I run low on blades I'm going to try some from Olson directly or Seyco. I used nothing but Olson for a long time. Then after getting two bad batches in a row, I turned away from them and started using a different brand. 
When I say bad batches, I mean real bad. They came from two different companies. I ordered a gross from company one. and they would break before I even got the tension all the way on. I mean they didn't even get to the cutting part. They were broke before I even turned the saw on. Then I ordered from another company, another gross. These lasted for all of thrity seconds before breaking. 
I don't know if Olson was going through a bad batch process, or if it was the companies I ordered from. However, I just had to eat the cost of two gross of blades. If they had been from the two companies you mentioned, I'm willing to bet they would have exchanged them. 
Anyway. Thanks for giving us that info. It's funny that until now I'd never really thought about asking where you get your blades. I knew you used Olson, but always just assumed you got them from the same sources that I knew of. 
I do agree with Hunter above though. Olson are great blades. If you get the chance though, I do suggest anyone trying different blades. I won't mention on Sheila's class what I use. Anyone who reads my blogs probably already knows what I use. Different blades (different brand, styles, and tooth counts) act completely different depending on the type, thickness, and amount of detail you're cutting. There is no one blade fits all. It takes experimentation to find the perfect blades, FOR YOU.
Sheila. I'm following your class. I seem to nit pick certain things when discussing scroll work though. I strong point that I like to make about scrolling is that there is no right or wrong while doing it. What works for one person doesn't work for a another. I think this is important. You can learn from one person, but have to chart your own course eventually with it. 
I know you are a very fair person. There may be some things that I think will be worth bringing up, like this blade thing. If that bothers you or you think it takes away from the class, then please by all means, at any time, tell me to shut the hell up. I won't get offended. I fully understand that this is your class. 
I do not want to in any way bother your teaching process. I just have a tendancy to jump in when I think I have something to add.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


No problem, William In the first part (I think) I said the same thing. There is no one right way to do this. I appreciate all the opinions and as you said, what works for one may or may not work for everyone. It is good to present as many options as we can to help people make their own decision.

I am just the conductor here. You all are the instruments. Together we will make a symphony of nice projects!

Sheila


----------



## turtlepan

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


I never was very good in class, but as I WANT to learn something this time, I should pay attention! Maybe this time I can get honours! lol


----------



## Pabreu

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


I from Portugal (Europe) and I buy my blades from Olson, the blades are very good just one thing that don't like in the PGT are the thickness of the blade ends. I do lots of intricate fretwork and just can´t use that blades.
Pabreu


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


I haven't tried the PGT blades yet, Pabreu. I do think I understand what you mean. Are the regular blades smaller on the ends? I haven't compared them.

Sheila


----------



## Pabreu

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


Yes Sheila much more thinner, but they are a very good blades
Pabreu


----------



## helluvawreck

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


*Sheila*, we haven't had internet service in our town since Friday because they are upgrading equipment so I just read this. However, I ordered some scroll saw blades last week from highland hardware about a week ago and the rest I suppose that I have or can get at the big box stores so hopefully I'll be ready. I think that I also have some soft maple 5in wide that is 3/8 and 1/2 in thick.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


That will be great! I am also going to ask you all to get some 1/8" birch plywood or similar stuff. I will use that later on though to give those who don't have any some time to get it. It is kind of a 'staple' around here and I forgot to mention it, but it should be fairly easy to get some or something similar.  I will have the next class up in a couple of days.

Glad to see you are all getting ready!

Sheila


----------



## helluvawreck

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


I also have one of those heat transfer tools that Marty, spoke of in his chip carving class. Since I have been chip carving I have found these to work great. I assume that these are ok for scroll saw patters as well but if not please let us know.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


Those work fine. Patrick Spielman used to use that to transfer the pattern onto the wood. I have never used it myself, but I expect that it will work OK. I used to have one somewhere, but I don't know where it wound up. I will see if I can come up with it but it may be packed away with myself. I can always link back to Marty's blog so people can see how it works. Thanks so much for reminding me. 

Sheila


----------



## stanmashek

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


Hi Shelia
I am looking forward to attending your class online or at least being able to read the comments. I have been scrollsawing for at least 30 years starting with a hand held scrollsaw then getting a electric one haha. I am looking foward to learning new things and how to do some of the small projects. I am sure many people will enjoy your classes and enjoy the wonderful hobby. thanks for offering your time to a great cause. thanks stan m.


----------



## Mickit

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


Well I bought some blades today…just bought the list, as I have no earthly idea. You all really buy 'em by the gross?!?
Hope this isn't a clever Canadian trick to bankrupt south Texas.8-0


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


No, Mickey! No Canadian trick! Remember I am American too! 

You don't have to buy them by the gross. Especially if you are just trying them out. A dozen is good and you shouldn't really be breaking that many. It is just when you get going, they do wear out somewhat quickly and they are fairly cheap and cheaper by the gross so many people just get them by the gross. I think that Wooden Teddy Bear has a mix and match where if you get a gross you get a better price.

Sheila

PS - I should be posting the next step tomorrow or Friday the latest.


----------



## Mickit

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


Just kidding Sheila…some of my best friends are Canadian(he)Take your time…I'm still hunting spray goo, err glue. and hunter…yer durned skippy I am ;-)


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


Wal mart should have the spray glue. If you are planning on using the packaging tape, you don't have to be too picky about the spray glue. Only if you plan to put it right on the wood.

Sheila


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


I can't vouch for other area, but here locally (Mississippi), Walmart has the small cans of 3M Super 77 (All I use). I don't know the price, because I don't buy it there. I do enough scrolling that I don't waste my time with the small cans. Home Depot (where I get mine) has the large cans of the same for less than ten bucks. Currently, they have a deal where you get one large can and one small can for the same price (again, locally, I don't know about elsewhere). 
As for tape, you can get it just about anywhere. Currently, I've been buying my tape at the Dollar Store. I use two inch wide painter's tape (masking tape). It is sold also at Wal-Mart and Home Depot though.


----------



## northwoodsman

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


Sorry I'm late for class but I was out of town for the past 10 days. I ended up with an RBI Hawk 226 a few weeks ago so the timing is perfect. Looking forward to the class and getting comfortable with the new (new to me anyway) saw.

I'm glad you didn't take attendance for the first two classes.


----------



## jaicu

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


I was supposed to be researching for gutters for my gutterless house, and, since I found you by tangential google from the Olana State Historic Site, can't remember if that house has gutters, but it is exquisitely decorated, the stair rail - screen in one of the upstairs rooms caught my eye, and reminded me I have a scroll saw put up somewhere, it was a frustration when I first had it due to going through so many blades. I thought I was doing it wrong.
Perfect time to catch up with your class, am delighted to have already learned that blades don't last very long for anybody.
Probably have most of the supplies already, maybe get some new blades, and soon will be organized!


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


Welcome to the new comers! No attendance records are necessary! I hope you come back because you want to. I realize that everyone is eager to really get going and I thank you all for your patience. With summer here and everybody busy with vacations and such, I had wanted to keep the pace slow. Besides, it seems that we have LOTS of beginners or people just starting up here (which is GREAT!) and I had also said that I want to gear the class to them.

I am working on the next lesson today and should be posting it by tomorrow.

I still have been receiving messages from people just joining and want to give everyone a chance to get ready too.

Thanks for all the positive support from you all! It is a pleasure to host this and I am really excited! 

Sheila


----------



## NH_Hermit

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


The new scroll saw arrived on Tuesday, and I hope to get it bolted down to the mobile cart this weekend so as to be ready for the next installment of the course. I was frustrated that the job has prevented me from playing with it, but I did turn it on once. There didn't seem to be much viberation to it, so we'll see how it performs this weekend. It's supposed to rain much of the weekend, so most of the chores the wife has for me will have to wait, giving me more hours in the shop. (Sorry, Dear.) Haven't even had chance to read the owner's manual.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


That's great news, John. I will be posting the next part later on tonight. I also have a simple pattern to post for you all to play with. Remember we are going to walk before running, so there will be time for everyone to get a chance to play.

My saw is just sitting on a cabinet and is fine. It did vibrate a little less when it was on its stand at the show, but I don't have room for the stand here and the difference is negligible to me. I trust you won't have much of a problem.

I am looking forward to seeing how everyone does! 

Sheila


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


I wanted to come back and clear up something I said before.
I think I made it seem like everyone should rush to websites and buy grosses of scroll saw blades.
I apologize for making it sound that way.
For most scrollers, buying blades by the dozen, and locally, is just fine. I know of four different stores here in my hometown that sell different sizes and styles of Olson scrollsaw blades. One of those stores even has a sampler pack of four different blades, four of each. 
After Sheila's class is done though, there may be a few of you who get the "scroller's flu" like I did when I got into it. What I mean by that is you may decided you lke scrolling enough that you start becoming obsessed with finding patterns that have the maximum amount of scrolling on it. I have one portrait I cut of Jesus that is an 11×14 portrait with over three hundred inside cuts on it. 
If you get into scrolling like that, I mean doing a lot of it on an almost daily basis, then it is cheaper to buy by the gross. 
I wanted to clear that up though. I think Sheila already has, but I just felt I needed to come back and correct the way I presented that information. I'm sorry if I confused anyone or made anyone feel like they needed to spend more money then necessary. I only order blades every few months, but it is normal for my blade order to run upwards of sixty bucks. You are welcome to go look at the size, style, and amount of projects I do though. If you don't think you'll be doing that much scrolling, then grosses may not be the best alternative for you.
Thank you, and again, I apologize for any misinformation.


----------



## BilltheDiver

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


Hi Sheila,
I was on a vacation last week and missed this series. I have gone back and read both posts now, so please sign me up. I've been scrolling for some years, but there is always plenty more to learn, especially from someone as talented as you! I hope you won't mind if I mention your class on Steve Good's site. If it has been posted there, I missed it.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


I didn't think of posting it on Steve's site. That is a good idea and I am happy you did Bill. Thank you so much! 

Sheila


----------



## RoundEyes

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!












Bought a Scroll Saw some Years Back..Started using it..been looking at a lot of U-Tube Videos to get info..on the use ..Being 100 disabled from Nam..after 2 tours..need something to help with VA Vets..so I embark on a Project to make Small Shadows of Fallen Soldiers and with the sales..donate them to the VA Hospital in Loma Linda VA Hosp. in Calif..but need some serious Teaching to master it..so now I think I have located some one who certainly can help this disabled Vet…Taking tons of notes on your Class..and will try to keep up..Thanks for your time you have spent in prep..for this class..Regards Round Eyes,,
Freedom is Not Free


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


Welcome Roundeyes! Your clocks are really nice. What a great cause you make them for too!  I hope that you get something out of the class.

Sheila


----------



## DamnYankee

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


Already learning and I haven't even gotten home to pull out the SS or do my homework. Maybe in about 2 months.


----------



## DamnYankee

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


@Roundeyes. From a current serving veteran, thanks to you and all those that preceded both of us.


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


Hi Shelia, When do we want to use the #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)? Thanks for doing this. I'm a bit late, but it is great!! Bob


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


Hi, Bob:
In general, I use them for cutting a lot of the outside border cuts. (Such as the outside edges of plaques and frames, etc.) They are great on 1/2" or thicker stock. I also use them or a #5 for when I do bevel cutting for self-framing plaques (I think that is Lesson 9) I stated a #5 in the lesson because it is slightly more stable for the beginners and it is easier to follow the line with for someone new, but the #3 will also work fine. It is quite sharp and has a thinner kerf than the #5.

I also use the #3 Mach blades when I do stack cutting, which I didn't really cover yet. I find that the #3 can cut up to 4 thicknesses of 1/8" Baltic birch material with no problem whatsoever, and still allow you to cut very detailed designs. I used them to cut my skating pond figures which had small curved skating blades and they went through the four layers easily, yet still allowed you the control you needed to do fine details like the skates.

I hope this helps you.

Sheila


----------



## scober

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


Moving along with the process, great time of year to do such things, here in ID much snow and little warm weather


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


Welcome to the class Scober.  I hope you enjoy it and get something out of it.

If you have any questions, just ask!

Sheila


----------



## arual

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


Thanks in advance for the lessons. Can't wait to start. Arual


----------



## Shanks

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


As usual I could be a tad late for this online scroll saw course but will there be another one??


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


I am always here to answer your questions, as are everyone else.  I hope you enjoy the lessons. If you have any questions, ask away! I hope you have fun and find the class beneficial!

Sheila


----------



## daytona

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


i guess i am "late" signing up. haha 2018- i signed up at a senior wood shop, last june. been doing some different stuff. i cut out a nativity -9 pieces from 4-8 inches tall. all out or 1 inch exotic hard woods. then re-sawed them -to get 2 of each. Now i am making bowls, by tilting the table. today i went through 8 blades in 2 hours- cutting 5 circles, from 7 inch to 5. i need education on blade choice ,so i signed up! i'm on lesson 2 already- need to read a little more, BUT already figured -it was the wrong blade. i was cuttin 15/16 hard wood- wenge and purple heart, at a 23 degree angle-


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Basic Supplies and (EGADS!) Homework!*
> 
> Well, it looks like we are going to have a great group here! I am really happy with the enthusiasm of everyone who wants to participate, and also the cheerleaders. You can all get back in your seats now and we can start to get down to business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get this post up here by the weekend so that if you need to get some supplies to start, you will have some time to do so. One thing that I really like about scroll sawing is that it takes very little 'equipment' to make things work. My partner recently got a lathe and it is amazing to both of us how many different parts and chucks and tools you 'need' to make things work.
> 
> With scroll sawing, all you really need is a saw and a drill press (and you can even get by if you have to using a regular drill or even a Dremel and some drill bits.) Aside from some sand paper and a few supplies - that is it! You can be well on your way to scroll sawing!
> 
> But for our purposes, I will give a general supply list of the most common items you will want to use. You probably have most of them in your shop already!
> 
> I am finding that the biggest discrepancy we are going to have is the many different kinds of saws people have. I started with a Delta saw in 1997 and then moved up to a DeWalt which I kept until a few months ago when I got my Excalibur. Even though I have been doing this for quite a long time, I haven't had a lot of experience on many of the other saws and will need to go by what I have heard from others.
> 
> I am going to start out by saying that I encourage you to do some of your own research on the saw you own if you are having issues with it, as it will be impossible for me to help everybody with specifics on saws that I have never worked with. (This is actually homework in disguise - but I was hoping you wouldn't notice because there is more to come!) You can always ask a general question on the class blogs too because chances are someone here may be able to help. If you want to know of a GREAT source for information on scroll saws of all type, you should go to Rick Hutchenson's site at
> 
> www.scrollsaws.com
> 
> Not only is Rick one of the smartest guys I know, but he has one of the most comprehensive sites that I have ever seen in regards to scroll saws. (Plus, he is a really nice and helpful guy!) On his site, there are tips on maintenance, trouble shooting and all kinds of information and videos about just about any saw you can imagine. Rick has a collection of literally hundreds of saws and has first-hand knowledge on many of them. He has lots of experience testing tools and consulting with big companies such as Delta and he will give you whatever information you may need to get your saw in tip tip shape. He also has some great patterns if you are in the shopping mood for lots of woodworking projects and videos.
> 
> So let's get on with the supply list:
> 
> I use Olson Scroll saw blades almost exclusively. I know there are many brands on the market, but Olson blades are my favorite. I love the control you have with them and I have yet to find better blades anywhere. I know that there are some who swear by other blades, but this is my own personal preference and I stand by my decision. You need to work with what is good for you and what you are comfortable with, but these are my favorites.
> 
> Here is a link to a blade chart from Olson which will help you choose the right blade for whatever you are planning to cut. Remember - this is only a suggested guideline and you may choose something else depending on things like the type of wood you are cutting and the thickness and hardness. But it is a good starting point and reference:
> 
> Olson Blade Chart
> 
> You can download and print it out for future reference. You may want to even laminate it and keep it by your saw for a quick reference. (By the way - this is NOT homework! It is kind of a little treat to help you along! )
> 
> I like using reverse-tooth blades because when you use them there is less sanding involved. Reverse-tooth blades are blades where the lower inch or so of the blade has the teeth pointing up (traditionally, the teeth should point down on scroll saw blades!) this helps prevent tear out on the back side of your piece and as I said, minimizes the amount of sanding you need to do on the back side when you are finished. Some say that reverse tooth are a little harder to control - especially when you are beginning - but I find the difference is marginal if anything and the good still outweighs the bad on them. I would suggest you give them a try and I would bet that once you use them, you won't want to go back.
> 
> Now I have a homework assignment for you. (Here it is - there is no hiding this one from you!)
> 
> My partner wrote an article called Scroll Saw Blade Selection that will help familiarize you with scroll saw blades. This is a great basic article for you to get a handle on the types of blades and their characteristics so that you make the best choice for your project.
> 
> As far as the blades you will be using for class, here is a list of the blades that I tend to use most of the time.
> 
> #2/0 Regular reverse-tooth
> #2 Regular reverse-tooth
> #3 Mach Speed reverse-tooth blades (Olson's new blade)
> #5 Regular reverse-tooth
> #9 Regular reverse-tooth (I rarely use these, but for thicker projects they work nice)
> 
> I bet you were expecting a longer list than that! But honestly, those five pretty much cover most of the things that I cut - and they probably will handle most of what you do also.
> 
> The other supplies you will need is of course - wood. What kind of wood, you ask? I find that hard wood with even grain such as maple and birch do a fine job for delicate fretwork. Pine is OK to practice on, as it is cheap and usually plentiful, but the soft texture and sap usually doesn't make the best choice for fretwork. If I were to tell you a certain type of wood that is a good overall wood for scrolling I would say maple. But any scraps you have around will do. Most of the projects we are going to do here will be smaller, so just about all the wood will be 1/2" or less in thickness. I will be more specific on suggestions prior to each project. For starters, let's say that we will start with 1/2" maple. If you don't have maple, don't kill yourself trying to find some. Anything similar will do. I am going to have some practice sheets for you to learn some really basic things like casting on and off and basic maneuvering to start with and that should do fine.
> 
> You will also need some temporary spray adhesive to apply your pattern. Two popular kinds are made by Elmer's and 3M.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Others will do as well, but these are two brands that I have used successfully for years. A word of caution though - Elmer's (and probably the other companies too) makes many different strengths of spray adhesives ranging from temporary to extra-strength, which could probably be used to glue the tiles on the space shuttle successfully. So be sure to avoid those at all cost! I am going to show you two ways to apply your pattern, as well as suggest others that have been used successfully, but it is important that you use *temporary* spray adhesive to be able to get your pattern off the wood once finished cutting.
> 
> The only other things you will need are blue painter's tape (try to get it at least 2" wide) and some clear packaging tape, also 2" wide that you should be able to find at the dollar store. You don't need the thicker and expensive kind - the cheap kind will do fine.
> 
> Other than those few things, you will only need your normal shop supplies, such as various sized drill bits and a drill press or drill and sandpaper in various grits. Then we will be ready to go!
> 
> I will probably have the next lesson up sometime early next week. That will give you all time to gather your basic supplies and *do your homework! * I hope I covered everything you need to know to get started. I will be checking here frequently to answer any questions you may have. Thanks again for reading and I look forward to getting to know all of you better and showing you how fun and versatile the scroll saw can be.
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone! I look forward to getting started and moving ahead with this. Let the adventure begin!!


Yes, that is really pushing the limits of any scroll saw. They really aren't made for cutting thick wood and those hardwoods are very difficult to cut as well. It makes for a tough time. You can look at the articles we have on our website at http://www.sheilalandrydesigns.com/free-pattern . If you scroll down the page a little, you will see the many topics like blade choice, etc. I hope it helps you.

The class here is 'timeless' so I hope you do enjoy yourself learning. Thanks for being on board. 

Sheila


----------



## scrollgirl

*Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*

I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.

We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:

Scroll Saw Training Pattern

It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.

Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.

For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:

-On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.










-The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.










-Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)










When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.

Now we are ready to apply the pattern.

Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.










For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.

I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.

I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.

Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:










Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.










Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.










You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.

If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:






It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.

That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.

I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.

I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.

Thank you for reading!

As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


----------



## Elizabeth

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


Great idea with the blue tape, I will try that next time! I recently did my first scroll project and the pattern did start unsticking halfway through, especially on edge curves.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


Hi, Elizabeth! I liked this because you could go a bit heavier on the glue without worrying about getting the pattern off. That way it was less likely to come up while cutting. Nothing is more aggravating than that!! I was cutting for 15 years and when I saw this at the show I was wondering why I hadn't tried this before! You are never to late to learn, I guess.  I hope you found this lesson helpful!

Sheila


----------



## CherieLee

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


I found just after a year of scrolling myself that many people use the blue painters tape. I have also found within the past few years that people still use the method of applying to the wood itself, but as I say; "so each they're own." or "his own" or "her own." LOL.

I have used the blue painters tape for many years now and will not back away from it, no matter the cost. I have also found it to stay on for prolonged periods of time when I cannot cut yet, but have everything ready to go. In my honest opinion, applying the pattern to the wood itself is a long process in which takes time away from cutting. U apply the blue tape, adhere the pattern, then the packing tape for blade purposes. Then I am ready to go.

I really like how the class is going so far Shelia!


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


Thanks Cherie. 

I find too with using the blue tape that you don't even have to apply the clear tape over it most of the time. Only if the wood is particularly dense or hard. The adhesive in the blue tape is sufficient to prevent the burning lots of times. But if I see a problem, it is easy to add a layer on top.

Thanks for your input and I am glad you like the post!

Sheila


----------



## huntter2022

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


Shelia well done .
I sand my boards with 220 grit then
I use the blue tape method also and use the clear packaging tape when cutting hardwood or stack cutting.

I keep a glue stick near my saw if the pattern starts coming up it is easy to fix .I also use it for small patterns to

David


----------



## northwoodsman

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


I use the 3M 77 spray adhesive. I spray the pattern and then apply it directly to the wood once tacky. When finshed, or even days or weeks later, I put some mineral spirits on a paper towel then apply it to the pattern. I wait about 1 minute and the pattern peels right off in one piece. You can actually use the pattern over again if you want. I then take a little more mineral spirits and wipe any residual adhesive off the project. I'm going to try the blue tape method. I have never had a burning problem, maybe I throw the blades away too often?


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


I like the 3M 77 also. I just don't seem to see it much here in Canada. I don't think that the burning (or lack or) means you are changing blades too soon. There are a lot of factors that affect if wood is going to burn or not, like moisture content and density, etc. I just found that with the way I used to do it, where I put the clear tape over the pattern after applying it directly to the wood, if it stuck to much, the clear tape would inhabit the mineral spirits from penetrating to the pattern to help get it off. With the tape underneath the pattern, it is no guessing and you can stick it down good without worrying if you will get it off or not.

Let me know how you like the blue tape if you would. As I said, I never tried it either until March. Now I wonder what took me so long. 

Sheila


----------



## rkevins

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


Sheila, do you have to wipe the wood down with mineral sperits to remove the tape residue like you do for spray glue, I will have to try the tape on my next project.


----------



## NH_Hermit

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


Sheila, I've a question. When I bought my saw, I also bought a package of assorted spiral blades. Did I waste my money? (H9030 from Grizzly)


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


I don't usually have to wipe it down afterward. There are several types of painter's tape on the market and I suppose that you have to experiment and see the type you like the best. Some are made to stay on longer term than others so I would experiment to see what works the best. .

I have prepared patterns and left them aside for several days without negative consequences. The brand I am using is Scotch Multi-surface blue painter's tape. It says 14 day Clean Removal on the label. As I said, I have only used it for a couple of months. Perhaps some of the veteran scrollers who have used it longer have some thoughts on this. Feel free to respond everyone if you have some additional information for us.

Sheila


----------



## MrsN

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


John - 
The special thing about spiral blades is that you can cut from any direction (sideways, backwards, whatever). That is really handy when doing some portrait patterns, but when trying to cut a long smooth curve if you twitch a bit to the side you have a bump that you have to smooth out. 
Most of my high school students prefer to use spiral blades when ever they cut, they love being able to cut in any direction and not have to turn the wood.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


Hi, John:
Spiral blades are mostly used for scrolling portraits and larger pieces that are too big to turn in the saw (if you have a 20" throat on the saw, any pieces larger than 20" would be impossible to turn completely around to cut) The spiral blades are actually a blade that is twisted so that the teeth are facing all directions, allowing you to cut in any direction without turning the piece.

However, they do tend to leave the edges a bit more ragged than regular blades, and they are more difficult to control when you are new to them. I honestly have not had much experience with them. My partner, Keith has used them and really likes them for certain applications though, such as when he does his portrait patterns and trees and such. I will try to convince him to do a lesson later on in the class for us or at least coach me so I can help you all out. There are several great scrollers here on LJ's too that use them frequently and I am sure they will offer some advice.

I don't think it is a waste of money because you may like that style of scrolling. There also may be a time when you need to cut a large piece for a project and they will come in handy for you. Once I did a sled and the runners were too big to turn and do the inside cuts and I was really glad I had some on hand.

I will do my best to get some information on them and we will look into them before the class is over 

Sheila

PS - Thanks MrsN! You answered while I was typing! Maybe you could help out when we have that part of the class.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


Spirals are like any other scroll saw blade in that there is a learning curve to them. I suggest anyone interested in them to experiment to your hearts content. I know how to use both flat blades and spirals However, spirals are my blade of choice. I use spirals 99% of the time for everything. The only thing that will be different as far as cutting goes is that with the spirals, you have to have a steady hand. As suggested by someone already, they cut in all directions, so if you move you material sideways during a line cut, you will cut sideways into an area you possibly didn't mean to cut. 
If in doubt and you have to move off your cut line, go towards your waste area. This in some cases may leave a little nib on the wood. In that case, because of the way the spirals are twisted, you can gently use the edge of the spiral blade like a miniature rasp and smooth it out easily.
If anyone is interested, I've got thousands of hours of experience with spirals and will be glad to help any way I can. In the end though, as Sheila has said, there is no right or wrong. Some people hate spirals. Some people, like me, love them.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


Sheila, you mentioned one benefit of placing the pattern with the straight edge on the flat edge of the board. There is another benefit to that as well.
While minimal, it is true that every inch you cut with a scroll saw blade, you are using up some of it's life. Now, this may not seem like no big deal to most people, but if you're doing large projects (you know I like them) or makeing many pieces, then that little bit along the edge that you don't have to cut just saved a tiny bit of blade life.
I'm sorry. I know this seems trivial, but when you do the type project that I sometimes do, these little trivial things like saving a few seconds of blade life really add up in the long run. People often comment how quickly I do certain projects (Sheila, you've made this comment yourself). Well, it's all these little tricks I have picked up along the way put together that allows me to do so. 
I'm glad you mentioned stack cutting as well. When doing large projects with identical parts, or production cutting, stack cutting is a scroller's best friend.


----------



## huntter2022

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


I have never had to use mineral spirit to remove any tape residue , I lightly sand the surface then finish it .

Spiral blades , I have used then and find you get a rougher edge with them . It does take practice to use them . like anything else but spirals need more . Spiral blades like to follow the grain of the wood .
they make a great wood file too.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


Following the grain is the one complaint of spirals I hear most. I don't have that problem. The trick is that spirals, if you want them NOT to follow the grain, have to be run just a tad tighter than flat blades. With a spiral blade in my saw and tension applied, I can play you a tune in the key of E.
Just like huntter just said though, spirals do take more practice to learn. I learned to use them out of necessity and just started to preferring them. When I first got into scrolling I tried spirals and hated them. Then I got into doing some large project. I soon found myself doing projects that had parts way too big to turn on my scroll saw. The only solution was spiral blades. In time, I got used to them and they have been my preference ever since.
The biggest "problem" in my opinion with spirals is the "fuzzies". 
I use Flying Dutchman #3 spirals for a vast majority of everything I do. This leaves edges at the back of the piece (only the bottom one when stack cutting) with edges that look "fuzzy" from the tiny wood fibers sticking out. The solution to this is easy. A random orbital sander take it right off. 
Now the tricky part though. If you are working with an extremely delicate piece of work, it is highly possible to destroy all your hard work by removing the fuzzies with a random orbital sander. The only way to learn what you can and cannot do with that type sander is experience. I know because I have indeed destroyed hours of work in a split second. When in doubt as to whether or not the piece will handle the randome orbital sander, I suggest not chancing it. For those delicate pieces, I have a rotary tool (dremil drill) with a tiny rasp chucked in it. This hangs over my work table and that is all I use it for is cleaning up the back of delicate pieces.


----------



## MNedman

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


Shelia, thanks for posting the google document, I was able to access it and download it to my own google document folder very easily.

I am following along with great interest…thank you for taking the time to organize and lead the class.


----------



## Kentuk55

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


I don't or haven't done much scrolling, but, I do plan on fiddlin with it some in the future. I really like the blue tape idea and will certainly give that a try. thnx for the tips


----------



## Rick13403

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


Good start to the class Shelia. I have used the blue tape trick for around 5 years and all I do after removing the tape is a light sanding to get rid of any fuzzies that are lurking around. I had read about it in a crafting magazine.
Rick


----------



## NH_Hermit

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


Thank you all for the feel back. As you can tell, I am a rank beginner at scroll sawing, so I think the best approach for me is to put the spiral blades in a drawer and follow Sheila's instruction to the letter. Later, after more confidence and practice, I'll attempt the spiral blades. I do feel better that I did not waste my $5.25.

Oh, and the reason I bolted down the saw to the cart was not so much vibration but because the cart is mobile, and I was concerned it could accidently get knocked off and damaged. The positive upside is that there is almost zero vibration now that it is bolted down. I started playing with it yesterday, reading the manual, identifying the various parts, learning to install both pinned end and plain end blades, and cutting up some scrap material with various blade sizes to get a feel for it.

My first impressions are: (1). Blade changing is a bit of a challenge and time consuming with this saw. I'll need to take care and not lose the supplied Allen wrench for the plain ends. Keeping track of tools is not one of my strong points. (2). I need to develop more patience with this skill, than required for say my chain and circular saws. Has someone out there written a book for the "Zen of Scroll Sawing"?


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


Hermit, I am not aware of what brand scroll saw you have, but the problems you seem to be having so far are part of the process of learning to scroll.
My first saw was a Ryobi. That things was a piece of crap, but I didn't know that at the time. When cutting detailed pieces, I had to learn to cut a straight line while also chasing the saw around the shop while it vibrated and walked all over the place, and I had it bolted to a heavy stationary table. I am not exaggerating. After cutting a two hour project, it would have literally have moved three feet from it's original locations.
Because had no reference as to what was right or wrong though, I thought this was normal. So I used that saw until the bearing were worn out. After getting a different saw, I disassembled the Ryobi with the intent of rebuilding it for my kids to use. When I took the sides off it actually almost fell to pieces it was so worn out. The saw was trashed.
My new saw was a Delta. It is little to no vibration. The blade changing and tensioning is easy. It is just a better saw all around. It is still an entry level saw because I haven't had the dough to get a better one. It is better than what I learned on though. 
Now, I am not by no means suggesting you get a different saw, not at all. My point is that after learning to scroll on that Ryobi, I feel I can cut anything in the world on my better saw. Besides that, now that I've learned a lot more, I don't think all of the Ryobi saws are bad. I think I just got a bad one and didn't know enough about them to know to return it. 
As for the "Zen of Scroll Sawing", I don't think it is a book I've ever heard of. For me, I got deep into scrolling because it was something I could do around my various health problem. For some reason I just became obsessed with it. I will tell you this though. I, too, was very impatient when I first started. After getting a few nice projects under my belt though, it became much easier to have patience with it. 
You said your saw has an allen wrench for changing plain end blades. If I make a suggestion, a rubber drill chuck holder. They sell them in hardware stores for less than a dollar usually. It is a piece of rubber designed to be put on a drill cord to hold the chuck key so it doesn't get lost. You an put the allen wrench in it. You may have to use a piece of string ot tape to make sure it doesn't slip out of it. Then attach it to your saw or your stand with a piece of string. Or if you are one that is careful to unplug the cord when changing blades, then you can attach it to the cord. I don't suggest the cord idea though, because if the allen wrench is needed for the top blade clamp as well, then you'll need to use it often if you decided to do a project with a lot of inside cuts.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


I am really glad that the document downloaded easily. I am new to Google Docs as I said and it is nice to know it is working for you all.

John, you are doing just fine. It is smart to take your time and get to know the saw you have. There are so many different models that it would be impossible for me to troubleshoot every individual saw. Getting the feel for using the saw with different blades and wood is also smart. It will help you a lot to make good decisions later on when picking blades or wood for a particular project. Personal experience is the best teacher for that.

It does require patience, and is much different than working with table saws, band saws or other big tools. But it is also quite relaxing when you get the hang of it and very rewarding. I think Steve Marin did a video on 'woodworking zen' not too long ago. Maybe he will follow up with the book version at a later date (you reading, Steve?)

Keep up the good work and thank you everyone for making this so much fun and educational for all of us. 

Sheila


----------



## BertFlores58

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


I read every bit of words in this blog. Even I am just following, I was feed with so much knowledge, secrets of doing things, and many other varied opinions and facts. The thing that comes into my mind is whether I can do this technique of using pattern in my way of using a router. I will try it. Thanks Sheila for the use of tape for avoiding the burning of wood and easy way of pasting the pattern. How I wish I had the saw? I will remember this lesson better if I do it than by just reading.


----------



## MrsN

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


john-
one of the older saws at my school needed an allen wrench. After a semester of having 15 teenage boys trying to find it I hot gleded a magnet to the side if the saw the allen wrench gets stuck to the magnet and can be found most of the time.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


MrsN,
You made me think of a trick I haven't used in a long time.
You can buy long stick on magnets in the craft section at Wal-Mart. They are magnets that you peal paper off the back of and they have sticky stuff on the back. They are about a half inch wide and about three inches long. Stick two of these on your saw parallel to each other about an inch and a half apart. You can stick your allen wrench to them and also some spare blades. 
I had them on the side of the Ryobi saw I used to use. I used to keep about five blades at a time on them. It was especially helpful when doing detailed portaits that required me to switch now and then between different size blades.


----------



## BertFlores58

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


William and MrsN, Magnets… I use old speakers' magnet. They are more stronger and trusted that it will not falldown compared with those being bought in the stores… It could also pass trough a stainless steel dish for my screw tray.. this makes my life easy… when I need the screw, I take out the dish away from the magnet so I can shake my dish to get the proper screw. When dish is sitting on the magnet, the screw is pulled by the magnet and dish becomes stable.


----------



## Mickit

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


I sure am glad today's lesson was about patterns, and not actual cutting. My blades are still in the mythical land of Ohio(I think) Boy UPS is getting bad. I did find the Super 77 at Walmart as suggested, but I had to show ID to buy it. Evidently there are a lot of kids walking around with their nostrils glued shut. 
BTW Sheila, you mentioned 1/8" Birch plywood…I've found it down to 12mm around here. What size sheets are you planning on using? I may have to order that in.


----------



## huntter2022

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


Hermit 
You could replace the allen head screw with a knob , making it tool free to change blades

http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2001072/Jig-and-Fixture-Knobs-and-Handles.aspx

Give you a view what I'm talking about


----------



## jimt2099

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


Hi Sheila,

In regard to mounting the pattern. As you said there are many diferent methods; my favorite is to use spray adhesive and mount the pattern directly to the wood. To remove the pattern I wet a paper towel, or rag, with mineral spirits (paint thinner) and dab it on the pattern, letting it soak in about one minute then the pattern lifts off as if it never had adhesive on it. A quick wipe over the wood with the dampened towel to remove any residue and I'm done. Also, I use olsen crown tooth blades. That eliminates having to sand the project after cutting. This process keeps costs down and affords less waste for me.

Spiral blades… I use then almost exclusively for cutting pictures and portraits as they allow me to cut quicker, and as previously stated, in all directions. However, when cutting a project that has a lot of fine fretwork and straight lines I hardly ever use spiral blades. One reason is that spiral blades have a larger kerf than regular scroll saw blades. In other words a 2/0 crown tooth, or reverse tooth, etc. leaves a very small kerf and that makes it a great blade for veining (cutting those very small lines in leaves, flowers, etc.). The same 2/0 size designation in a spiral blade will leave a kerf (cut line) approx. double the size (not good for veining). Many times when cutting pictures I have to switch from spiral to a regular blade depending on the type of cut required. In any case using spiral blades takes some practice to get the feel of the way it will cut, but don't let that stop you from trying them as they are a great tool and you will be glad you learned to use them.

In regard to the messy curley cues the spiral blade leaves on the back side of the project, you can remove these by sanding, but if you are working on a rather large project with hundreds of very small fret cuts, this can be very labor intensive, not to mention highly likely to break some of the smaller pieces when the sandpaper catches on them. My solution to this delema is the burnz-O-matic torch. I light the torch, adjust the flame as low as it will go and still stay lit. Then I lightly, and quickly, brush the flame across the back side of the project burning off the fine "fuzzies" that the spiral blade left. If you keep the flame moving it will burn off the fuzzies and not burn or darken the wood. For portraits and other projects that have a backer board adheared to them there is no sanding required after using the torch method. You just glue the backer board to the project and you are done.

If you are new to scroll sawing please try all the different blades available to you. As Sheila pointed out, we all have our comfort zone, meaning while I may like a specific blade, or technique, you may have other preferences that you are comfortable with. This is okay, but please do not let it interfere with trying new methods, blades, techniques, etc. When I first tried spiral blades I did not like then at all and thought I would never use them. But when I tried my first wood portrait I found that a conventional blade was definately not going to get it as I would have to be a contortionist in order to do the pic with a conventional blade so I laerned to use the spiral and what a diference. Now I love using them, but as I stated earlier, they have their place and not to be used for all cutting.

After a few years of scrolling and a lot of experimenting, I have found that to limit myself to just a few blades or techniques is to do myself a definate disservise.

Thanks Sheila for taking the time to offer this class. Your experience and expertise is a valuable tool to all who love this art and espicially to those who want to learn it.

Pay attention guys and gals as this lady knows what she is talking about.

Jim T
janddwoodcrafts.etsy.com


----------



## CherieLee

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


Wow, this class has really taken off. My hats off to Shelia and the Lumberjocks crew!!! And of course all the new people I am meeting.


----------



## littlecope

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


Excellent Sheila, this is all new technique to me!! I actually have a project that has been on hold for a while, because it'll be necessary to apply the pattern this time, and I was trying to figure out a good way to do it…
I'm one of those dinosaurs that still transfers the patterns directly onto the wood with carbon paper…
The closest I ever came to cutting through a pattern is when I applied regular masking tape to dark woods, and then made my markings on the tape, so that i could see them…
I blogged my "old fashioned" technique a while ago here...

Sorry to disrupt the class…

But you did invite discussion of alternative methods Miss Landry…


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


Littlescope,
I don't think that is old fashioned at all. 
I too sometimes just use carbon paper to transfer a pattern directly to wood if it's a simple design. I only do it on simple designs that I can trace within a few minutes. In those cases, it just seems better to me to do so than to waste the tape and glue with my usual method.
A point to make about doing things that way though is the way a regular pen or pencil will wear out your original pattern. I noticed this problem after wearing out a few larger pattern that I was using carbon paper to trace onto the wood.
To combat this, I now use and empty ink pen. I took a ball point pen apart, took the plastic ink cartridge out of it, the ran the rest of the ink out by running it over scrap paper until all the ink was gone out of the point. This leaves just a ball that will roll across the patter, without leaving ink, and with it rolling, it doesn't wear the pattern out as bad. Every now and then I'll apply just a tiny bit of Johnson's Paste Wax to the ball point. If you don't eventually the ball will freeze up and tear the paper.


----------



## NH_Hermit

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


Magnets are a great idea. Now can someone help me to not lose my shop pencils?


----------



## Mickit

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


"Now can someone help me to not lose my shop pencils?"

I keep a few strategically located around the work area…and tied in place.


----------



## MrsN

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


I have to admit, I have never used the blue painters tape. I put a layer of packing tape on the wood, then use a glue stick to apply the pattern. I thought the blue tape was a bit expensive, and figured it wouldn't be that much better then what I do. Since I am also a teacher and am frequently frustrated by those silly kids who don't listen to me and work so much harder then they have to, I decided to get some blue tape and try it Shelia's way. (well not entirely, I still used my trusty glue stick instead of spray glue)
This afternoon I tried the blue tape method (not on the homework, but don't tell the teacher) I was really surprised how much better it worked. When it came to removing the tape the whole thing just pealed off, no picking or heat required. It was really easy. I might have found a new preferred way to attach patterns.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


As for the BLUE painter's tape, I use any painter's tape I can get on sale. I frequently buy it at Big Lots for about a dollar a roll. This is the same size roll that costs more than four at Wal-Mart. It is white (actually sort of off white to yellowish), but works just like the blue stuff. 
I do keep a roll of the blue name brand stuff around at all times though. I use this when it is a piece that I may not be cutting right away. If you leave the cheap stuff on the wood for longer than a day or two, it sometimes sticks just as bad as if you were to glue the pattern directly to the wood.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


Hermit, you find a way to not lose pencils, let me know. I have I know at least fifteen or twenty lost at my shop at any given time.
As a matter of fact, if you discover a fool proof no-loss pencil device (all the ones I've seen so far have failed me), you'd better patent it and make millions.


----------



## tomd

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


Thanks for all your effort Shelia, I am a raw beginner and everything is new to me.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


It is really good to see everyone so excited and to see all the good discussions and sharing of ideas. That is what I had hoped for with this class. And I am happy to seeing some of you trying new things and finding alternatives to your usual ways of doing them. As I said before, there really is no 'right' or 'wrong' way to do things if it works for you. But if you try doing something in a new way, it may surprise you and may find it works better. Of course, you may still like the way you were doing things in the first place, but at least you will know why and have had that experience.

I'm glad you tried the blue tape MrsN. Like I said, I had heard about it previously and didn't give it a try until March. I had been gluing my patterns right to the wood for years and for the most part it worked well for me. Once I got the hang of it, I didn't really see a problem with it at all. But when I taught, I could see that some were struggling with things like how much to spray on and how long to leave it tack up before applying the pattern. It kind of brought back memories of when I just started out. Someone showed me how to do it and I gave it a try. A little light bulb went on and I thought "this is easier!"

Some people say the tape costs more, and it does, but I get a 50 yard roll for $5.00 here in Canada and it lasts me for months. I never tell people how to spend their money, but I think of the time I save alone on a project with not having to pick off the pattern in little pieces and it pays for itself.

Thank you too Littlescope for sharing your blog with us. I have used that method in the past too to transfer patterns and it does work well for lettering and such. I transfer things that way when I do decorative painting from a pattern too. It is a decent alternative if the pattern isn't too detailed. I am happy that you put the link so others can see another method. 

One other thing that works is a Heat Transfer tool.










For this you need to get a photocopy of the image you want to transfer using DRY TONER LASER. This is the only one that releases the ink permanently onto your surface. You then apply the heat to the back of your image directly on to the surface. I have talked with several scrollers who like and use this method.

I think that you should pick whatever you feel the most comfortable with. I appreciate all the sharing of information so far and think this is really going to be a fun class for everyone. Thank you so much! 

Sheila


----------



## NH_Hermit

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


I think I have found the solution to lost pencils. I just bought 12 more! I'm thinking about cutting them in half. Surly I might find one of them.


----------



## huntter2022

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


Ok I have never done this .

I heard ; If you print a pattern with a ink jet printer . you can place it ink side toward the wood , take a iron and run over it and it will transfer to the wood


----------



## WayneC

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


I believe it only works with photo copies and laserjet printers. I first saw this in the chip carving class that Marty did.

http://lumberjocks.com/MyChipCarving/blog/22001


----------



## Davisjr

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


I have a question. I know it is best to use temporary spray adhesive. But if one where to apply blue painters tape and then apply the pattern to the tape. Does it matter which spray adhesive to use? Wither it is temporary or a stronger strength.

William


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


That is a good question William. Perhaps I didn't clarify properly in the supply list. Probably because I figured if you got the spray adhesive that was temporary, you would be able to try both ways and use it whether you preferred to use the blue tape underneath the pattern or not. If you purchased the stronger bonding one, it would limit you to only using the blue tape under the pattern. Some feel that it is too expensive to keep buying painters' tape and I do respect that. I feel that it is worth it for me because it saves me a lot of time picking off the pattern and also eliminates the guesswork of spraying too much or too little adhesive.

If you are using the blue tape, ANY kind of spray adhesive would do fine. Even the high strength ones. You will never be removing the pattern piece from the tape below so as far as I am concerned, the stronger the bond the better.

Thank you very much for pointing this out. I hope I clarified things for you here. 

Sheila


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


I tried a permanent bond glue once and had no problems. I'm not sure what kind of glue ya'll are referring too, but I ran out of my 3M Super77 and wanted to finish the project. I had one piece left to cut, so I looked around the shop for some way to do it. I wound up in my "mechanical corner" where I keep mechanic tools and supplies. I had some headliner spray. This is some thick gooey mess that you use to put up headliners inside cars. This stuff is messy, but not meant to ever be removed. 
As I've already stated, it was messy. It worked though. Therefore, I think other glues would work with the tape. I wouldn't suggest anything messy as I used, but it will work.
As soon as I got to town, I bought more Super77. The reason I do so is that I like it. Why do I like it? Because it's all I have ever used. There is absolutely no other reason for my choice than that I have always used it. Other glues may work fine.
If you already have some and are in doubt. Tape up some scrap wood, apply the glue and put the pattern on the tape. Let it sit for a few hours, or over night. Try to remove it. As long as it holds pretty good, but can be removed withouth making a mess on wood, then the glue will work. 
By the way, I'm NOT saying the following will work on a consistant basis, only that I've seen it used.
I seen one guy use the tape method, and for glue, he squirted Elmers school glue all over the back of a patter, smeared it all over with his finger, attached it ovr the tape, let it sit for a few hours to dry, then cut it. He seemed to have no problems at all. In my opinion though, this method would be risky. If you had one tiny spot that didn't get enough glue or wasn't pressed together well enough, I think it would come loose while cutting. The only reason I mention it is to point out that there are a variety of option.
As Sheila had pointed out, withmost scrolling methods, there is no right and wrong. If you thing something will work, use material you don't mind potentialy being wasted, and try it. All you have to lose is the material you used and time.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


This section of the class was about applying patterns. However, a couple of days the subject of spiral blades came up. So I wanted to come back and offer a prime example of the usefullness of spials.
I am currently in the middle of a project.
It is a 20×27" portrait style cutting. It is being cut on a 16" Delta scroll saw. It would be impossible to cut this size piece without spiral blades. 
It is a Charles Dearing design and I can't wait for ya'll to see it.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


Anyone who wishes to see that portrait I mentioned in the last response can see it here. 
I apologize Sheila if I seem to be highjacking your lesson. That is purely not at all my intentions. Questions were raised about the purpose of spiral blades though. This project is one that would be absolutely impossible on my sixteen inch scroll saw withouth spirals.


----------



## jaicu

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


Wow, so many good comments, I'm spending more time reading than getting any work done…

Thanks to every one who sent a note of welcome. I'm not one to make comments often, but I am really enjoying all your experiences, so here's my only contributions to the discussion so far:

Blue tape is the best stuff - but it's temporary, don't leave it on the wood 'too' long.

Aside from patterns, when marking straight cut lines on wood, particularly since I usually change my mind after drawing the first line - or when I decide to measure twice after all…
Use water color pencils, they are much softer than graphite and won't 'etch' the wood but you can still get a fine line, and they come in many colors. I also use them when working out patterns on graph paper (i.e., I'm not a computer aided design person at all).


----------



## RoundEyes

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


Yard Display..Veterans Day..


----------



## huntter2022

scrollgirl said:


> *Applying the Pattern for Scroll Sawing*
> 
> I hope everyone was able to find the supplies that I suggested in the last part. If anyone had any trouble, please let me know, either through a personal message or on the comment section here and between myself and the others here, we should be able to help you.
> 
> We are now ready to apply our patterns to the wood in preparation for cutting. But first of all you need a pattern. I have made up a sheet of some simple shapes that you can use as a practice scroll saw pattern. Just click on the link here and it should bring you to the pattern:
> 
> Scroll Saw Training Pattern
> 
> It is located in my shared Google Documents folder.
> 
> Once you are on that page, you can download the page to your own computer as a PDF file and print as many copies as you need to use for practice.
> 
> For those of you who are not familiar with how to do that, please follow these steps:
> 
> -On the upper left corner of the page, right under the 'Google docs' logo, you will see the word 'file.' Click on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -The menu will drop down and you will see the choice 'Download Original'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Click on it. You will then see a dialog box that comes up to ask you if you want to open or save the file. Choose to open the file with whatever PDF reader program you have on your computer. (Mine is Adobe Acrobat 8.1, as shown here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you click on 'OK', it should open in your PDF reader program. Then you can save it where you want on your computer and print it out as many times as needed. I would suggest that you make a new folder for all the class materials I will be providing throughout the lessons. That way they are all in one place if you need them.
> 
> Now we are ready to apply the pattern.
> 
> Cut the pieces apart and loosely place them on your wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For practice purposes, I am using a piece of pine that is about 5/8" thick and the piece on the right is some brown maple that is a bit shy of 1/2" thick. As I said in the previous lesson, in many patterns (except the ones that are assembled pieces, such as boxes and slotted ornaments) it really doesn't matter if your wood is exactly the size suggested. That is the nice thing with scroll sawing - it allows you to use lots of smaller odd pieces you may have around your shop.
> 
> I like to use blue painter's tape on my wood prior to applying the pattern with spray adhesive. The purpose of doing this is so that the pattern comes off easily and also the adhesive in the tape helps keep the blade cool and prevents burning of many hard woods. It also helps prolong the life of your scroll saw blade.
> 
> I just tried this method recently when I was in New York for the woodworking show I attended there. Prior to that, I applied the pattern right to the wood, and then applied a layer of clear packaging tape over it to prevent burning. This also worked fine, but sometimes it was difficult to remove the paper pattern, as different types of spray adhesives react differently with different temperatures, wood types and several other factors. When not using the blue tape, you had to be far more careful about allowing the adhesive to 'rest' or tack up a bit before applying the pattern to the wood. Otherwise it would be difficult to remove when you were finished scroll sawing. On the other end of the scale, if you waited too long to apply it, it would not stick enough and the pattern would be falling off during scrolling, which was both aggravating and increased your chances of ruining your project. Using the blue tape underneath eliminates the guesswork and makes the process much easier.
> 
> Simply cover the piece of wood you are going to cut with an even layer of blue tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use an empty box lid or other large, flat surface (I use a large pizza box) and spray the back of the pattern pieces with an even misting of spray adhesive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a few minutes until they begin to feel tacky and similar to the feel of masking tape before applying them to your wood. If you don't wait and they feel slippery, they may not stick well. If you wait too long and they don't adhere correctly, you can just wait a minute or so and then spray another coat and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what I did here on this piece was to line up the square with the square edge of the wood. Sometimes it is difficult to scroll a straight line and if you have a perfectly straight edge, it is kind of nice to get a head start and have one of them done for you already.
> 
> If you want to see a short video that I made last year of me spraying on the adhesive and gluing the pattern directly to the wood, you can watch the video below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is the same procedure as with using the blue tape, and it may give you a little better idea of how much spray you need to use.
> 
> That is all that I am going to cover in this segment. The next segment we will actually be cutting and we will learn good ways to cast on and cast off of our piece.
> 
> I will be using the #5 reverse tooth blades in cutting these pieces, but with these simple designs and depending on which wood you have, you may use something similar. Remember I said that there are a lot of 'right' ways to accomplish things in scroll sawing and we don't all have to use the exact same things. It is what is most comfortable to us.
> 
> I hope to post the next segment very shortly, but I want to be sure that everyone understands things up to this point. Please feel free to comment and ask questions if you have any and I will be happy to help you.
> 
> Thank you for reading!
> 
> As an extra note - please let me know if you have any trouble with downloading the pattern or any of the links. I am new to using Google Docs and I hope this method is going to be the easiest way to get you patterns. The size of the larger circle should be 3". Hopefully, after downloading it, the size will not be affected. Let me know if it is different please.


Very nice Shadows ! 
Thanks for helping out the Va and fellow vet's

Welcome home !


----------



## scrollgirl

*Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*

Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.

Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.

Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.

Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.

Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:










I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.

To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.

If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.

Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.

You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.

If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.

Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.

Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:










I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:










We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.

Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.

Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.

I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)

The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.

On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.

I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.

So on to cutting . . .

Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.










Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:

-In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.

-It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.

Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.

When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:










This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.

Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.

But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.

So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.

The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.

You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.

So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :










You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.

It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.

Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.

Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.

First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:










And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:










This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.










Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.

Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.

If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.

When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:










When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!










I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.

I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.






At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.

Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


----------



## littlecope

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


Very well explained and demonstrated Sheila!!
Scroll sawing is a curious mix of a firm hand, with a light touch… if that makes any sense…
Guiding, rather than pushing the wood…

I'm afraid I didn't do my homework today Miss Landry…
The scroll Saw was in use for something else…


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


Uh, OH! Insubordination already?


> What AM I to do


 LOL

You will be able to catch up whenever you get the chance, Mike. You are right in that it is a firm but light touch. I was trying to think how to explain this. I am going to try to show it in a video tomorrow (it's too late tonight) I will add it on the bottom of the lesson so please check back.

I am glad you liked the lesson.  Thanks!

Sheila

ps - what were you using the saw for - or shouldn't I ask?


----------



## KnotCurser

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


Very nice lesson 'Teach.

I most certainly would have started my cut at the nose!

I guess you can teach an old dog new tricks! Thanks.

-bob


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


Well, that means a LOT to me coming from you, Bob! I am one happy girl tonight!  It's funny how we come up with these little things that make our days easier. There are so many little tidbits of information that is shared with discussions and groups like this. I like the thought of trying new things and sharing ideas. It enriches us all!

Thank you kindly for the comment! It is a pleasure to share!

Sheila


----------



## lightweightladylefty

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


Sheila,

Maybe you covered this earlier: My cheap saw has a "presser foot" (I'm talking sewing-machine-talk now because I don't know the correct term for the scroll saw). You don't show it in your photo. Is it removed for purposes of clarity of photo details or am I better off without it holding down the wood?

And, yes, I would have started at the nose, too. You certainly know human nature! Thanks for the lesson. I'm not actually "doing," but I am "reading." (It's too hot to even step outside the house to get to the shop!)

L/W


----------



## Mickit

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


Aiee. My blades are not scheduled for delivery, until tomorrow.


----------



## MrsN

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


I have taken the "presser foot" off of all the saws I use. I find it gets in the way.


----------



## BertFlores58

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


Hi Sheila,
Well explained not only in details but also in pictures..


----------



## huntter2022

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


lightweightladylefty >>>>> You will find alot of scrollers remove the foot . Makes it easier to see the cut line and when you get into more detail patterns easier to change to the next cutting area.

For a pattern like the bear > I like to put the feet on the square edge of the board (when possiable) then start at the front foot and work around .
The way it is showed I would of cut straight along feet then up the back and around

To back it up for the newer people mostly and reminder for others

READ YOUR MANUAL !!!
Keep it in a safe place !
I know your probably saying ya ya whatever.
There is alot of information in there. There is routine
maintenance , troubleshooting, part list , and contact info.

Determine if your blade is square with your table,
1-Get a small 2 inch Square, or a small protractor I have used A combination square minus the ruler.
A credit card

2-Cut about A 1/2 inch into a piece of wood, remove it,and put it behind the blade ,
if the blade slip into the cut it is Square.
Loosen the pointer just enough to adjust it to zero . Tighten the pointer make sure it doesn't
move . Now your ready to cut.

Now that it is squared up.The adjustable pointer on your table you need to set that.

Tip: Try raise the back of your saw up , I have a 4"x4" on mine, some use a 2"x4" , making it easier to see your work . less strain on your neck


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


Thank you for the information David! Those are some really good points. I appreciate your input. I really hadn't meant the bear to be perfectly flat on the bottom, as you could see at the pattern, but if you wanted to use him as a stand up or for other things that have flat edged, that would definitely be the way to do it. 

As for the hold down - I am with MrsN. I think that they are cumbersome and get in the way more than anything. I don't think I know of any scrollers that use them. I think that because of the changing degrees of pressure you need to use as you turn and cut, they are not very practical and interfere with cutting more than helping you. On my new saw, it was the first 'adjustment' I made - taking it off.


----------



## helluvawreck

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


*Sheila*, this is very well written and very comprehensive. I believe that you are bound and determined to make us all expert scrollgirls and scrollboys. ;-)


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits.  This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


We started with the bear and cutting curved pieces. What about the six point star with the "non-curved" sharp corners. Are you covering that in a later lesson? 
I ask becaus I was interested in how you would cut that. I know how I would do it, but as I said when this class started, I always enjoy seeing how others do things. Sometimes it makes me change my own methods. You CAN teach an old god new tricks. 
Personally I would cut that in one of two ways depending on if I'm cutting one or if I'm stack cutting. I won't go into that at the moment though until I find out if you're planning on covering that later.


----------



## KnotCurser

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


I will add my opinion about the hold-down. I don't use it either - I have to agree that it's way more cumbersome than useful.

HOWEVER….......... This IS a safety device that prevents the blade from grabbing the piece and quickly/violently slamming it back down on the table a few times. Startles the daylights out of you and could possibly damage your fingers. Also screws up your blade if you don't stop it quickly.

I would suggest you use it for the first few projects and then get rid of it if it bothers you (which it probably will). Once you do stop using it, be prepared for the first time your piece gets lifted by the blade and slapped back down on the table! I am certain everyone with a few hours of cutting under their belts have had this happen to them. Never happens on larger pieces - just smaller, thicker ones.

-bob


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


Hi, William:

Yes, I do plan on covering it in the next class. That piece isn't a curve, but when I laid out the pieces for the previous class, I suppose I didn't realize that there would be so much information in this class. I didn't want to make the lesson too long and I noticed it was getting that way. So we will go over that next time. 

As for the hold down, you probably should give it a try. Perhaps you will feel it helps you - especially in the beginning. I agree though that it does interfere with holding and turning your piece and does get in the way.

Sheila


----------



## Rick13403

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


Excellent lesson Sheila. I am one of a few that still have the hold down still on my saw. I just raised it up and let it hang there. Thanks for taking on this class with everything else that you do.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


Ok. That's great.
Thank you. You're doing a great job with the class.


----------



## Druid

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


Great information, and clearly presented. Thanks for taking the time to do this blog.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


Hi, All!

I just added the video onto the end of the lesson for those who are interested. I am not the best at videos, but it will at least help get the idea across. I am sure by the end of the class I will be a little better!

Thanks for looking! 

Sheila


----------



## helluvawreck

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


*Sheila*, the video is very well done and adds tremendously to your tutorial. The whole tutorial is excellent.


----------



## Mickit

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


Very cool video Sheila. I'll have to watch it a few more times. 
Thanks for doing this!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


You done a fine job on the video.
I do want to throw one thing in here though.
If any of your students have not experienced it yet, they will. Blades do break. I used to break more than I should when I first started because of inexperience. I would turn the wood too fast without pivoting ptoperly. I would push too hard into the blade with hard wood. I would use them until they were overly dull because I didn't know any better. Let's just stop there and say I broke blades.
The point I want to make clear though is that blades will break. It's not if you experience a broken blade, but when and how often. This caries depending on the project, and type of wood. I wish to make sure that everyone knows this. 
I'm not saying everyone will experience the exact emotion I did, but when I was concentrating on a piece being cut and the blade would break, it would scare the living daylights out of me. On some saws, the noise from a broken blade sounds almost like the saw is trying to self destruct. There are still times today that it catches me off guard. 
I just wanted everyone to know that this happens. Please don't let it discourage you. It happens to everyone, no matter how long you've been scrolling. It is normal. You've done absolutely nothing wrong. All it means is you now have to change blades before continuing.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


Thank you so much! My partner thought I should maybe overdubbed the sound and talked after I was done sawing. I know the saw noise is a little distracting, but it would have taken me a lot more editing and learning to get it done and you guys wouldn't have been able to see the video for weeks!  It is the best I can do at the moment and hopefully I will learn a little more each time I make one. I am glad it helps get the idea across. Thank you for your kind words!

Sheila


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


That is true William. We ALL break blades and it is quite startling - especially the first few times it happens. The best thing to do is shut off the saw and not worry too much about it. You will soon know when a blade is getting dull and when you are pushing it past its life and learn to change it before it happens. You will also get a better feel for your turns and maneuvering and figure out how to avoid it most of the time. It is part of the learning process though and usually pretty harmless. Thanks for pointing that out William. 

Sheila


----------



## huntter2022

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


Shelia you did a great video .

The only thing the newer scrollers are proably saying WOW ! she is turning that so quick . I know I use to think if I turn direction to quick it is going to snap the blade or put a twist in the blade . The blade can take alot more than you think . Which with more cutting experence you will not even think about it

Blades breaking , it happens it scares the heck out of you the 1st time and the 2nd and so on. Just think about what was going on when the blade broke were you having to push harder because the blade was dull. , or were you having a hard time stay on the line , meaning the tension was loose. So replace the blade and move on remembering ; What happen it will come natural with more cutting experence and you will correct it before the blade goes bada boom bada dad


----------



## Mickit

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


Sheila…first question…about how many strokes peer minute did you cut that bear. My saw is a step pulley type, so there's really no fine tuning the speed. BTW the turning technique is how I learned to bandsaw, so, at least, I'm on a little bit of common ground


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


Hi, Mickey:
On the Excalibur, they don't really have an accurate stroke per minute measurement. I will say that I was at about 85% of maximum, which is 1550. So I would imagine that I was at about 1300. I usually don't top it out but dial it just a bit back.

This is also a personal preference, but at least that gives you a starting point. My partner Keith tends to run it at full speed more than I do. Depending on how yours is set up, maybe give it a go the speed before the top speed and see how that works for you. If you are cutting too fast and it is hard to control the cut, you could either slow it down another step or go up a size in the blades. I would think a #5 would work well on this project and give you a bit more stability. Just make sure that you are going fast enough so that the blade teeth don't catch and cause chatter, which could startle you a bit.

Give it a go and let me know how you did. It won't take long to get the feel of what works for you. 

I am glad that it feels at least a bit familiar.

Sheila


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


Ah! Blade speed.
This, like so many other variables in scroll work, is a matter of personal preference. 
All the question I see Sheila getting on this class are great questions. However, I hope noone winds up feeling like they're getting the short answers. The fact of the matter is that so much of scrolling is personal prefence. Sheils, myself, and many others on this site can present techniques and tips in a variety of ways. I the end though (and Sheila has said this several times), there is no right and wrong. This is something that I feel makes scrolling so enjoyable. 
Now back to the speed topic. As I said, personal preference. This is something that eventually everyone has to experiment and learn what they are comfortable with. If you cut at too slow a speed, like Sheila said, it is easier to get chatter. If you cut too fast then it is much easier to make a mistake, simply becaause a faster blade will take away material faster, just like any other saw.
As for me, my Delta's top speed is around 2100 SPM (strokes per minutes). I could turn it all the way and break the knob off. The only time my saw has been below maximum speed in over a year is when I accidentally hit it with something and moved the variable speed knob. The next day, it took me a while to figure this out. I thought my saw motor was going out because it wasn't cutting as usual. I was so used to NOT touching the variable speed knob, that I didn't even consider that it had been moved.


----------



## REK

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


I think what helps me the most is watching you work and talking your thoughts out loud.
As for now I haven't been on the saw for a week, I need to saw the legs shorter on the 
bench that holds the saw. Currently the saw sits to high and as you said you need to work
and have your arms relaxed. It is also helpful to know that you need to clean the blade tips.


----------



## NH_Hermit

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


Sheila, I did not get a chance to read this until late last night. You did a superb job of presenting this matieral. Excellent job! I know this required a lot of your time and I, for one, greatly appreciate it. Thank you.

The weekend is coming so I'll have time to play.

I'm printing a word doc copy of each post so it can be handy in the shop for reference.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


Hi, Bob:
I am glad that my talking helps you. I do think of things to say when I am cutting that would be helpful and don't come to mind until I am actually doing it. My partner kind of thought that I should do a voice over on the video so people don't have to hear the saw going and I could add the sound track in later, but I don't know exactly how to do that (yet) and it would take even more time for me to try to figure it out. I am sure as I do more of these videos I will get the hang of things better, and I do try to talk loud enough so you can hear me over the sound of the saw. I hope it is alright for now and as I said, I am glad it helps you.

(Edit - I just realized I repeated myself from answering above.  Sorry! I am getting OLD!)

NH - I am also happy that this is helping you a bit. My goal after teaching this class is to compile all the information that I am presenting here and perhaps making a book with a companion DVD to further explain the lessons. It would be nice to have everything all in one place for people to reference. It would mean a lot of work, but I am looking into it and would like to see it come to be. 

Thank you both for your kind words!


----------



## MsDebbieP

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


I agree with Bob-watching the "thinking behind the work" video is the best!!!

(good points re: breaking blades, as well-oh my nerves when a blade breaks!)


----------



## Davisjr

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


I have my pattern all printed out. But that is as far as I got. Good thing this is a "Go at your own pace" project.

The weather here in the Mid-Atlantic states has just been to hot to go out to my shop. Near 100 yesterday (July 21) and the same again today (July 22). Checked THe Weather Channel this morning. At 6:30 this morning is was 82 degrees and with the humidity it feels like 96 degrees. As I said on another forum it might be Thanksgiving by the time I get out to my shop.

I do have a question though. And it is about the tape. I know using clear packing tape helps with keeping the blade lubricated and cool. Sheila I believe you even mentioned in another Part that blue painters tape also keeps the blade cool.

So using either on of the tapes is sufficient? I am aware that the method of applying them is different (clear tape - pattern then tape, painters tape - tape then pattern).


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


H, Davisjr - I sympathize with your hot weather. So many people are suffering! I am also glad that you have the opportunity to follow at your own pace. It give more people a chance to participate.

Usually I find that using either tape is sufficient. What helps most is the adhesive in the tape - any tape. If you are using the blue painter's tape, you don't really need to put the packaging tape over your design. Same is true for the clear. I used clear only for years and it was quite sufficient.

However, if you are cutting a particularly dense or hard wood, it wouldn't hurt to use extra tape. Perhaps the clear over the pattern and blue tape or taping both sides of your boards. When I used only clear tape, I would do this with woods like Jatoba that really were tough and burned a lot. It did help to minimize the burning even through these types of hard wood. Usually one or the other will do the job though. It doesn't hurt to have some extra on hand just in case though.

Hope you cool off soon!  Sheila


----------



## Davisjr

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


One other question.

In the video around 2 minutes until the end your pattern started lifting off form the tape. You say "I let my pattern sit to long". What did you mean by that?


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


I think I meant that I let it set a little too long from the time I sprayed the spray glue onto the back of it and when I stuck it on the wood. When you use temporary adhesive, you need to spray it and let it sit a couple of seconds and it will get tacky as it dries. If you wait too long, it loses its tackiness and won't stick as well. It is easy to remedy this, as you just spray another coat and do the same process, but I probably didn't have enough spray to begin with on that edge and it dried a little quicker than the rest and started to lift a little. If I were doing a 'real project' (without the camera rolling) I would have stopped the saw and stuck it down with a piece of scotch tape to continue if I thought it would be a problem. As it was, I was able to hold the pattern in place with my finger nail because it was just a tiny edge. :

I am glad you asked so I could explain it better.

Sheila

Sheila


----------



## Davisjr

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


Thank you for clearing that up.

William


----------



## huntter2022

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


Pattern lifting up .

Having a glue stick (One you get for your child to go to school) close to the saw and just apply it to hold the lifted pattern up . But in Shelia case , alot time if there is not alot more to cut you can hold it as she did .

Ref: tape ????

With tape I do the same as Shelia ; but if you find the glare off of the clear tape makes it hard for you . Put the blue painter tape then clear package tape then pattern will help you out Sounds like alot tape but it is worth it in the end results of not having all then burn marks .


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


Yes, the glue sticks are great to use too.  Thanks Dave. Thanks for the idea with the tape too. I found it does glare sometimes, but putting it underneath would really solve that.

Great tips! Sheila


----------



## rance

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


The video is a good addition. Only thing I might suggest is to zoom in a bit.  Thanks again for putting this class together. It is appreciated. Keep up the good work.


----------



## awsimons

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


Thanks for the great article and video, Sheila! The comment you made about casting off really stood out to me. Backing off from where you have already cut then exiting the workpiece is such a great idea. Avoiding more than one little nub is very smart!

Alan


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


I am glad you got that Alan. I am going to show it again when we cut the circle and spend a little more time on it. It was kind of an afterthought when I was cutting and later I wondered if I should have said anything about it at all at that time. But mentioning stuff more than once won't hurt at all, I believe. I think it is a good 'trick' too and I was surprised when I was in New York at the show and people hadn't thought of it. It is something that I really want to share.

Also Rance, I will try to zoom in a little closer next time. It is hard not to knock the camera and if I am trying to avoid it rather than looking at the piece I am cutting, it may cause a problem for me. 

Sheila


----------



## macfil20

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


Sheila, great video and I did learn a few things. Looking forward for the next video.
JP


----------



## WoodworkingGeek

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


Thanks for the information!! It makes me want a better scroll saw. I have a harbor freight saw (check the link out below) The bad thing is the blade always binds and makes the work jumps up and down and then I ether cut my finger on the blade or pinch it underneath the workpiece. Should I get a another saw? What do you recommended? 
Thanks for you help!!
Mathew

http://www.harborfreight.com/16-inch-variable-speed-scroll-saw-93012.html?utm_medium=cse&utm_source=googlebase&hft_adv=40010&mr:trackingCode=C2730F9E-782A-E011-B31E-001B2163195C&mr:referralID=NA


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


Hi, Mathew:
I am glad you like the class. There are a couple of reasons that you are possibly having problems with the work jumping up and down or 'chattering'. One reason is that you may be using a blade that is too big. If you use a blade that is too aggressive for the piece you are cutting, there is excessive friction and it can grab the piece and cause the chatter. If you don't think that this is the case and using a smaller blade causes you to lose control of where you cut, you may be running your saw too slow. Try speeding it up a little and see if that helps you.

I have an Excalibur 21 inch scroll saw and I just love it. I was using a DeWalt 788 until a couple of months ago and it was a very nice saw, but I had the older 'type 1' model that was made a bit differently than the DeWalt saws that are available today. I don't feel that the DW788's today are made to the same standards they were years ago and I felt that investing in the Excalibur was a better choice, even though it was a bit more expensive. I have been very happy that I decided on that saw. I got it from Ray at Seyco and have been really satisfied. It definitely is a step above the DW788 and the best saw I have ever used. If you are looking for an investment saw, I would highly recommend it.


----------



## turtlepan

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


Oh My!! My Mastercrap scrollsaw is having speed issues! I normally have it set at about 840, when I put any pressurae on my wood towards the blade, the speed jumps up to about 960 then 1040 .. and then breaks the blade! I have taken it back to Can Tire and they say it will be about 2 weeks to get serviced. I am borrowing a Delta from a friend. It only has two speeds, extra slow or extra fast! It took awhile to get used to it, but am getting the hang of it now! I really think I need to get a Dewalt, Porter Cable or if funds allow maybe even an Excalibur!


----------



## WayneC

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


Hmmmm. Reminds me of when my crappy $150 craftsman saw. Kept tippling when I tried to push some oak through it. Scared the heck out of me…. Caused me to go out and buy a Unisaw…. Sounds like you need the Exclibur! : ^ )


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


Wow! I never heard of a saw speeding up when you apply pressure! That would scare me too. How the heck could you do anything on that?

Of course I am going to recommend the Excalibur. It is really a step above. I know that it is a bit more expensive than the other saws, but again, if you can afford it I would go for it. I fully intended to replace my DeWalt with another DeWalt - thinking it was unnecessary to spend more than I have to for a good saw, but over the past year or so I was reading time after time how people that got new ones were not happy with them. There were lots of stories too about the nightmares they were having getting them repaired. They aren't cheap saws either. I heard nothing but good about Excalibur and Ray from Seyco and even though I live in Nova Scotia, I got my saw through him. I don't regret it a bit. The difference in cutting is amazing and Ray is great with helping me on any questions that I may have. I don't like to tell others to spend lots of money because I don't know everyone's situation, but it is the one that I would really recommend. 

Sheila


----------



## helluvawreck

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


*Sheila*, I have a couple of wood carving projects that I am going to cut out the profile as well as some of the interior. Scrollsawing will be perfect for it.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


I like mixing different techniques on the same projects. There are so many ways you can make things interesting. I think that scrolling and carving together would make an awesome combination.

Sheila


----------



## Blondewood

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


I want to thank you for taking time to make the video. I've been scrolling occaisionally for years, but just simple items. I got several useful tips from the video and it was such a help to 'see' someone scroll and not just 'read' about how they would scroll. I've been off on sick leave and the only ww I can do is scrolling. Thanks to your video it has gone much better. I like the casting off and on tips. The other thing that was real helpful to me is seeing which way you go around the pattern. Clockwise or Counter clockwise, i.e. save piece on right or left of the blade. I had read to keep the 'save' piece on the right of the blade. I see you keep yours on the left. I did that the past few days and saw a big improvement with staying on the line. Before I always tried to stay a bit on the outside of the line and sanded up to it afterward. This time I kept on the line and had very little sanding. Thank you very much.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


You are very welcome, Vicki. I am glad you benefited from the video. I plan on doing the next lesson by the weekend and I will show several other things when cutting. Although I prefer to go clockwise, I have learned that we have to overcome our fear and discomfort of going counter-clockwise also. Some scrolling, such as doing curls, requires that you turn the piece clockwise sometimes, and counter-clockwise at other times - all in the same cut. I suppose the goal is finding some level of comfort in each direction.

I never really understood when people say that they cut on this side or that side of the line. Perhaps I am a purist, but I always try to split the line and stay on it as much as possible. On my older patterns, I used to draw them using a 1 pt line on the computer. But I found that it was almost too thick for the type of work I drew and now I always use a .5 pt line. It helps keep me on target more.

I am glad you like the class and hope you continue to join us. I should have the next lesson up by the weekend and I will surely have another video in it.

Congratulations on your improvement! 

Sheila


----------



## CherieLee

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


Ya know what? I have no idea how fast my saw can go. I have never used it at max speed. But most everything I cut is anywhere from 1/8 to 1/4 thick. And depending on the hardness of the wood depends on how fast I run. I just guess and go. It is goes great on a faster speed, then that is what I do, if its like 1/8 Baltic birch ply, I usually slow down to half speed. I can only go by feel. Just as I do driving a standard compared to an automatic. Hope this makes sense.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


I am the same as you, Cherie. I don't really pay attention to the numbers, I just do what is comfortable for the type of cutting I am doing. The only time I use the numbers is when someone asks me. That is when I have to look! 

Sheila


----------



## Davisjr

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


Well with all the rain we pretty much all day here in the mid-atlantic. I finally was able to get out to my garage and get in some practice on my scroll saw. After straightening up the garage I was able to get to work. I printed out some squares of different sizes within Corel Draw X5. A couple of them I printed them with red lines because I wanted to which was better to see, either red or black lines. As I was having trouble seen a line I was cutting but I think it was because my area was dark and not well lit. I also purchased a magnifying swing arm lamp from Harbor Freight.

So for my practice session today. I cut four squares. Two red lined and two black lined. Well with the help of the light I was able to see both black and red lines much easier. So I don't think which color I print I will not have trouble. One thing I noticed while cutting and I probably just was not realizing it. I own a Dewalt 788 Type 1 and when feeding my pieces it seemed like the blade want to go to the left and I was feeding the project. I know the blade should be pulling to the right. So it may have just been me.

For my final practice. I wanted to cut the bear from the practice sheet. Some issues I had were making the quick turns. Felt like every time I tried making a turn I would go off the line. Second actually following the line with all the wiggly lines on the bear template. Blink, I need to blink. My bear looks good but could be better.

Also I realized not to spray to much adhesive on the template. First square I did I sprayed to much adhesive and took forever to dry and some pieces of paper are still stuck to the piece even after wiping down with mineral spirits.

Hopefully next few days I can get out there again.

Bill


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


Davisjr,
Please blink while scrolling, for many reasons. 
Blinking is actually your body's defence mechanism for keeping dust and other airbourne particles out of your eye. While scrolling, there is plenty of that in the air. Therefore, you have to blink.
Another good reason for blinking is, well, you have to blink. It's a natural occurance. Please don't try forcing your eyelids to not do what they do naturally.

I often make analogies with scrolling and driving a car. Here is a perfect example. You mentioned staying on those wiggle lines of the bear. It is like driving a car. I'll bet if you leanred to drive on a curvy road, then your first time down that road you were all over it. You wouldn't have stayed perfectly the exact distance away from that center line. No. You would have wiggled all over your lane, if you stayed in your lane at all. It's the same things here. My car analogies are just the best way to describe things to people. My scrolling became three times better when a simple lesson hit me on the head like a ton of bricks. The saw does the cutting. All the scroller has to do is to steer the wood into the blade.
Another suggestion that may be helpful for the wiggly lines is to slow your saw down. Just like in driving, the cures come slower when you slow down your driving, making it easier to get used to steering around those curves. I cut with my saw at full speed all the time. I never turn it down. It wasn't always that way though. When I was learning, that variable speed control knob was my best friend.

Tha brings me to another car anology. You mentioned the blade steering to the left or right. This is an often misunderstood subject because the left or right depends on which way you look at it, from front or back. That being said, we're back to the car analogy. Remember me comparing all this to steering a car? Well this car needs a front end allignment bad, because it always pulls to one side. 
Now I know that some people have the money for front end alignments on their cars. I live in Mississippi though. We have so many pot holes in the roads that an allignment is sort of pointless. Within a mile of the allignement shop you will hit one of these holes and, guess what? You'll be pulling to one side again. So we learn to drive with the car pulling to one side of the other. Some of us have even gotten it down to a science. If it starts pulling too hard one way, we just try hitting a pothole with the opposite tire to make it pull a little the other way instead.
I'm sorry, I get sidetracked easily. The point of all this rambling I'm doing comes down to this. If you have a car that needs an allignment, and you just can't afford one, with practice, you'll get so used to it that you don't even notice it anymore. The same is true with scrolling. With time, you don't even notice it. So the key is practice. 
Actually, the reason scrollsaw blades pull to one side is because the milling process used to make them creates a bur on one side of the blade. This bur catches on the wood and pulls to that side. Although it probably won't help one bit with the pulling, I found it interesting to know how scrollsaw blades are made. You can go here and read how they are made at Mike's Workshop. He sales Flying Dutchman blades, but the process is basically the same for all brands of blades. The differences in the brands are the metal quality and tempering processes.

I keep hearing some people talk about the difference in being able to see black or red lines. I can't comment on that idea one way or the other. I'm colorblind and red and black both look the same to me. However, I can attest to the benefit of good lighting. I tried the lights that attach to the saw or sit near the saw. I never did like them. They usually got in my way more than they helped. I did however at one time move my saw to where I had better lighting. At one time I had the saw so that the overhead light was directly behind me. I found that this created shadows with my big head between the light and the workpiece. Since I moved the saw so that the light was to one side, I have never had any more problems seeing my lines.


----------



## Davisjr

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


Thanks William. I do like the car analogy. Will give me something to think about when i start my next cutting.

I do have a good supply of the Flying Dutchman blades I purchased from Mike's shop. I am using the scroll reverse blades. Like I said it was probably just me wandering the the piece I was cutting.

When I moved into the house 6 years ago. The previous owner had a workbench setup out in the garage. He basically used an old door as a bench top. One sitting on top of a filing cabinet and the other end sitting on a leg he built out of 2×4's. He left enough on one end that I was able to clamp the magnifying lamp out of the way of the bench top. Close enough so I can pull the lamp to where I need to see what I am cutting without getting in the way.

Kids start back to school two weeks from today. I usually can not get out to the shop to cut while they are here home with me. I am at the present unemployed (laid-off). Once they get back to school, as long as the heat does not get to bad again. I will be cutting more during the week.

Bill


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


Hi, Bill:
I am really glad to hear that you have been practicing. Lots of people expect scrolling to be like many other types of woodworking where either you do it right or not. But it isn't like when you make a cut on the table saw. There are lots of small variables that come into play and it usually takes a bit of practice to get things just how you like them. I like to compare it to lathe work in these respects. You need to get to know the feel of your equipment that you are using and adjust to them. Usually a little time and a lot of practice is what makes this work. It is rare that someone just sits down and scrolls perfectly the first time.

I am glad you will be getting some time in the shop too. Lots of people here have been busy, and that is why I am moving along quite slowly. It is still hot in lots of areas and people can't stand to be in their shop very long. But the cooler weather is on its way and by the time it arrives, I will have most of the basics covered. Please keep me posted on your progress (and others too) and let me know how you are doing.

Thanks to William for helping out on this too. I was away yesterday and didn't see the post until the morning. William, you have lots to offer here and I appreciate you sharing it!

Sheila


----------



## Blondewood

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


Hi William,
Love the car analogy. Just like driving, the more you saw the better you get. I can only ss right now and after a couple of weeks and these classes and videos I can see a big improvement. Another thing, just like a car….......you have to have the right tires for the road type; and have them 'balanced' properly. By that I mean the right blade and tension. I learned I was using too big a blade and needed to have it 'tighter'. Oh, and 'speeding' isn't a good idea. Sheila is absolutely right that with the ss one needs to have a lot of practice, compared to the router or ts.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.


----------



## Davisjr

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


Here is the bear I cut out yesterday


----------



## MrsN

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


nice looking bear.

Now, I might get disowned from the scrolling family for saying this but…Sometimes staying on the line is over rated, or over stressed about. On a lot of project once you take the pattern off very few people will ever be able to tell exactly where the pattern said you were supposed to cut.

For example,in something like the "tree of life" project I made. Do you know where each branch really is supposed to go? Would you know if I cut one branch out or added another in? probably not. If you keep your movements smooth, and maybe a little creative sanding, many "errors" will never be noticed.
some projects the lines are important. when you cut squares or other straight lines, it is pretty noticeable when you are off your lines. letters are another place where it is noticeable, we are used to seeing letters a certain way, even when the font changes our eyes can tell if there are differences.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


I think he looks awesome, Davis! He looks . . . . like a . . . BEAR!!!! 

Great job! Keep it up! I should be posting another class at the end of the week. I really appreciate you showing us!

Sheila


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


And MrsN - GET OUT!!!!

(NOOO!!! I am only Kidding!!!  )

I agree with you 100% Most things you really don't have to stay exactly on the lines and they will look FINE! That is a really good point that you brought up. I think the most important thing is when you make a mistake and start to drift off the line, you need to gradually get the blade back on track. If you could do this subtly, no one will ever be the wiser. I like to peel off the paper asap when I am done so you can't really see the actual 'lines' LOL

I love your tree of life, MrsN! Thanks for posting it too!

Sheila


----------



## MrsN

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


lol, thanks sheila.


----------



## Davisjr

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


Thanks for the compliments MrsN and Sheila.

Two areas I kind of messed on the piece. First at the starting point as mentioned on the pattern. I went little to far into the body but barely noticeable. Second was the mouth area. The pattern has the mouth straight on out. Mine is actually pointing down.

One good thing, he does stand up.

All the practice I am doing is on some 1/4" scrap luan plywood I collected from when I was working with my previous employer. I am a carpenter by trade. One would think cutting on a scroll saw should be easy for me. But it's not every day a carpenter pulls a scroll saw off his or her truck and starts cutting. I have some 1/4" plywood that was supposed to be used for toe kick on the bottom of the cabinets. My boss felt we did not need these and had our carpet/vinyl layers install rubber base. So I took the 1/4"x4"x8' pieces of plywood home with me.


----------



## Davisjr

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


MrsN

Nice looking Trees of Life by the way.

Bill


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


Mrs. N and Sheila,
Yes I'm back to my car analogies. This is my take on staying on the lines of a pattern.

A pattern is like a road map. Cutting on the scrollsaw is like taking a trip. You look at the map. You have to get to your destination. Just because there is a road on the map between where you start and where you're heading though does not necessarily mean you have to use that particular road. There are many roads to your diestination. Also, some have four wheel drives and can go offroad.
Yes, my analogies get a little crazy. What it means though is that exact lines aren't as important as people thing they are. I can't remember the last time I cut a pattern EXACTLY as the pattern was. If I get off the line while cutting, I'll slowly work my way back to the line. If I don't like the way something looks, I'll change it. I never redraw it. I simply veer off the line and cut it as I see fit.
This brings me to another point.
Often I cut large and/or very delicate patterns. I'm going to use a recent project I done. Last week I cut a flaming skull pattern that was designed by Charles Dearing. In this pattern, there were a few spots that didn't leave enough wood for me to comfortable cut it. I know what my saw, and myself, are capable of (this comes with experience). So most of the pattern is not cut "on line". As I cut it, if an area seemed too delicate to me, I simply cut off the line to where I felt there would be enough material left for my comfort level. Also, there are some tiny holes that were on the pattern that I either eliminated altogether or blended with larger holes they were right next too.

On a related note, mistakes can be fixed this way as well. 
I once cut a portrait called Christ Ascending that was designed by Jeff Zaffino. The 11×14 portrait had over three hundred inside cuts on it. Along the bottom of the portrait there are a group of men. When I was near finished cutting this piece, I sneezed and lopped one of the men's head clean off. I didn't scrap the project though. I thought on it a bit and decided to simply make some changes. Noone who recieved one of these portraits (I always stack cut three portraits at a time) ever noticed that it was short one man. They have no way of knowing how many men were in the original pattern. It does have one extra bush in the portrait though. Yes, I did some creative changes and turned what was left of the, now headless, man, and made it into a bush that matched some other bushes in the portrait.

So, no Mrs. N. You can still be part of the scrolling family. It takes a lot for your scrolling brothers and sisters to disown you. We definately won't do so over something that I think a lot of us agree with.


----------



## otindashop

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


Sheila:

You are a great instructor. Your information is spot on for newbies like us.

For me, the most confusing thing is the saw blade sizes. I came from the utility industry. Wire sizes and scroll saw blade sizes don't seem to mix or even compare. Utility wiire sizes start with high numbers like gauges for low voltages like 22, 16, 18 gauge, go on to # 2, 4, and 6 for service entries to homes and businesses and #12 for typical house wiring. A 2/0 wire size is for transmission (very large) or for underground service. It's just the reverse sizing numbering system.

It's all good learning. 2/0 is smaller than #5 or #12 in scroll saw sizes. I'll get it.

My wife and I will start our cutting on lesson 4 tomorrow.

Just a note here to compliment you.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


Thank you very much otindashop!  I tried to make these lessons so that even someone that hasn't ever used a scroll saw could follow along and progress.

Blade sizes are somewhat intimidating at first. Plus sometimes different companies use different ways to size them. If you (or anyone else) would like, you can email me at [email protected] and I will send you a PDF blade chart. This will give you the basic sizes and some suggestions for their use. Many newcomers find it especially helpful.

Glad you are enjoying the lessons! 

Sheila


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

scrollgirl said:


> *Let the Scrolling Begin - Casting on and Casting Off*
> 
> Now that everyone has their patterns applied to the wood, we are finally ready to turn on our saws and do some cutting.
> 
> Since the practice patterns that I have given you have no inside cuts, we are going to learn some practical ways to start and finish our cutting lines. I call this 'casting on' and 'casting off' the wood.
> 
> Most people - especially when starting out - just aim for the part of the design that is closest to the edge and start cutting. This isn't always the best option , as it sometimes leave little bumps or points where the blade meets up from where it went in.
> 
> Also, there are times when you dive in at a point that may be strong when you begin your cutting, but will be much weaker by the time you come around the line and try to cast off. This could result in a problem shaving off that little section that is left and possible cause damage to your piece. With a little thought and planning, this could be avoided and things can be much easier and look better on your scroll work.
> 
> Here is a picture of some of the pattern pieces with curved edges from our practice sheet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have mounted them on a 3/8" piece of maple for this practice exercise. You can use just about any wood you have extra in your shop. You will just need to adjust which blade you use accordingly.
> 
> To cut the pieces out, I chose a #3 Mach blade by Olson. The reason I chose this blade is because I want something that will cut through the maple easily, but also something that I will be able to control enough so that I will be able to follow the lines comfortably.
> 
> If I am using a blade that is too big, I will have too much friction from the blade and it will not only be difficult to maneuver it around the design, but it will also increase the chance of 'chatter' (where the blade grabs the piece of wood and it jumps from your hands and rattles up and down on the saw table.) If I use a blade that is too small, I will have difficulty following the line, as the blade will want to follow the grain of the wood and it will take more effort to push the wood through the saw.
> 
> Using the proper blade size will minimize these two things considerably.
> 
> You should be able to gently guide the piece through the saw, allowing it to do the work for you and it should not be something that you need to labor on.
> 
> If you don't have the same type or thickness of wood, or are using different blades, test them out on a scrap and see how they perform. Most times you could use a range of sizes to cut the same piece and it will still work out fine for you. It just depends on your personal preference that you will develop as you learn.
> 
> Once you choose the type of blade you are going to use, install it in your saw. Prior to installing the blade, I strongly recommend that you clean the ends of the blade in some mineral spirits so that you remove any oil or coating that the blades may have on them from packaging and shipping. Not all blades have this, but I found that many companies do put a coating of some sorts on them to prevent rust and this coating can cause blades to slip out of the blade holder when you are cutting. If this happens and you are not initially aware of it, it is possible that the coating can transfer to your blade holders on your saw and perpetuate the problem, even with blades that are clean. If this happens, it is necessary to also clean the blade holders of your saw in the same manner. I have found that many blade slipping problems can be solved by doing this, and it is better to start clean and stay clean by performing this simple step.
> 
> Simply Dip the end of the blade into some mineral spirits:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a small plastic cubby with a sponge in the bottom to keep some mineral spirits handy by my saw. Then I use a clean paper towel to wipe the ends of the blade off completely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now ready to install the blade. Since everyone here has different saws, you need to get to know how to do so properly on your own saw.
> 
> Once the blade is installed, the next step is to set the proper tension. This can be one of the trickiest parts of using a scroll saw, and something that is best learned by practice and experience.
> 
> Many times I receive questions from people asking how to tell if they have the proper tension. While it is difficult to be exact without being there with you, there are some basic guidelines that you should follow that will help you out.
> 
> I feel that the tension should be set fairly tight. When you pluck the blade, you should hear a high pitched 'ping' and there should be little flex in the blade when you push your finger against it (the saw should be OFF!)
> 
> The best way to know if you have the proper tension is to do a test cut. If you are cutting and the blade is bowing and you have to use a lot of pressure, chances are the blade tension is too loose. A sharp blade that is the proper size should cut through the wood fairly easily without excessive pressure. You should also be able to follow a line fairly easily without the blade wandering and following the grain. If it does this and you feel that it is tensioned enough, you may need to increase the size of the blade you are using.
> 
> On the other hand, if you find that you are breaking blades prematurely when they are still sharp, that could be a sign that you are tensioning the saw too much. This would occur more frequently when you are using very small blades. If you notice this happening, try to back off the tension just a little bit and see how you do. If you try this and find that now you can't follow your line, again try going up another blade size.
> 
> I realize that blade sizes and amount of tension can be a very complicated issues. It is difficult to summarize everything and every case scenario in one lesson. My plan for the class here is for us to do several different cutting projects using many different techniques, types of wood, thicknesses and so forth so that we can gain a feel for what to use when we are choosing our own projects. In essence, I want to give you the basic building blocks of information you can apply to other circumstances in your own practical uses. I also encourage you to ask questions at the end of this lesson so we can discuss your concerns and help others in the process.
> 
> So on to cutting . . .
> 
> Let's start with the bear. I have drawn an arrow on the pattern piece which points to a suggested entry point if I were cutting this piece out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many times I have seen new scrollers start to cut a piece like this by going straight to the nose of the bear since it is the closest part of the piece to the edge of the board. I don't recommend doing this for two reasons:
> 
> -In general, I don't recommend beginning a cut on an outside curve.
> 
> -It doesn't give you a chance to get a 'feel' for what you are cutting and make minor adjustments before you get to the cutting line.
> 
> Let's discuss my reasons for these suggestions. We'll start with the first reason - not beginning the cut on an outside curve.
> 
> When you scroll saw, the place that you start and stop your cut can sometimes leave a small bump where the blade enters the wood and ultimately exits. This is especially true when you are starting out in scroll sawing and are still learning to control the blade. But it is common, and happens to many of us who have scrolled a long time, too. You can see what I mean by the picture below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This occurs because the blade doesn't meet up exactly at the point where it enters on your line. With a bit of practice, you usually can keep this little bump to a minimum, but many times to some extent there is a small mark.
> 
> Now on pieces such as this oval, we have no choice but to cast on to an outer curve. The entire piece is rounded and there is no other option. It is nothing to worry about, and we can easily sand the edge to minimize the spot or eliminate it altogether.
> 
> But for many pieces, we have other options. For example, if we would have chosen to cast on at the nose of the bear, sanding that bump could become a bit of a problem. If the nose were on the grain of the wood in a certain direction, we would take the chance of losing a little piece while sanding, or having it shaped funny. Also, by casting on to pieces at the outside curves, you may find the pieces will be weakened at the end of the cut, such as when you are cutting scrolls and curls.
> 
> So for now, I am suggesting that you cast on to your piece on an inside curve or corner. This way if there is a discrepancy between where the blade enters and exits, it is well hidden in a curve or corner of the piece and not as obvious.
> 
> The second reason that I like to begin deeper into the piece and a bit away from the edge of the wood is that it gives you a little time to get the 'feel' of what you are doing. By cutting through the wood for an inch or two, you can make fine adjustments to things like tension and speed and find your comfort zone while you are still in the waste area of a piece and before you start the actual cutting.
> 
> You may feel the blade pulling to one side or another and decide that you need a bit more tension. You may also have to push a bit too hard to get through the wood and decide to change the blade to a new one or even a size larger. These few seconds can mean a lot to you and allow you to feel comfortable with what you are doing before you even begin to cut your piece. You can save yourself many headaches this way and feel confident that once you are cutting, you have everything set correctly.
> 
> So now we begin to cut the bear. First you follow in the waste area and aim for the entry point :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will notice that your saw will cut slightly to the right and not exactly straight ahead. Due to the characteristics of blades and the way they are made, this is typical and expected. We will talk about that more in a subsequent lesson when we are looking at cutting straight lines.
> 
> It is important to relax and go at a nice, even pace. Make sure that your shoulders are relaxed and that your elbows are down and you are not tense.
> 
> Gently guide the piece through the saw. Let the saw do the work. You aren't in a race and don't need to speed through things. The most important thing is control. Use your fingertips to gently hold down and guide the piece through the blade.
> 
> Since you are aiming for the cutting line on the neck of the bear, start to back off your forward pressure and momentum approximately 1/4" from the line. That way you won't over cut too far and go into the piece. Remember even a correctly tensioned blade is slightly flexed toward the back as you are pushing forward, and slowing down allows it to relax into a perpendicular position again. The illustrations below show this.
> 
> First this is an illustration of the how the blade is flexing to the back while you are pushing the piece forward:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then when you stop pushing forward, it allows the blade to come to a perpendicular position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is when you should pivot and turn your piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you made your 90 degree turn, you are ready to cut along your piece. Use your fingertips to gently guide the piece through the blade. Remember to let the blade do the work for you and you are in essence 'steering' the piece through.
> 
> Slow down at the sharp curves and allow the piece to pivot left or right before you continue your forward motion.
> 
> If you go off of the line, gently and gradually work back toward it. With most pieces, this slight variance won't even be noticed, and as you get better, it will be easier to stay on the line more and more.
> 
> When you come around to your starting point, aim as closely as you can to the point where you began cutting on the piece. If there is a slight bump where you didn't quite meet up, it will be barely noticeable in the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you finished cutting, just peel off your pattern. Name your little bear (I am going to call my bear 'Byron'!) and be really proud of yourself! You learned a lot cutting this little bear. Practice some more and cut an entire bear family! Hopefully it will be the beginning of some great new projects and a lot of fun for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to stop here for today's lesson. As I compiled this information for you, I understand that it is a lot to learn. The beginning lessons will be like this - short and focused, yet full of information. There is so much that you should know at the beginning that I feel if I go much faster, I will overload you with things and you will be frustrated. As we learn our basic steps, we will be moving forward a bit more quickly and doing more specialized techniques. But in the beginning, I don't want to miss anything important so I am trying to go at a pace that everyone can handle.
> 
> I made a short video which shows me cutting the bear out. I am not the best at doing videos, but I think it is watchable and will get the point across. (I'll never be a 'Steve' though!) I hope this helps you understand things a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end my pattern kind of came off a little. Those things do happen and it was possible to finish cutting anyway. Part of that could be that I am still not used to using the spray adhesive over the blue tape, where I could afford to spray it on a bit heavier. I am sure I will get used to it the more I do it.
> 
> Please feel free to ask questions about things you may not understand. I will answer them as fully as I can and I am sure that others here will help out too. I welcome all of your thoughts and input and hope you enjoyed this lesson.


Different companies using different size systems is something I hadn't thought about in a while.
I used to use Olson blades. Somewhere along the way, I switched to Flying Dutchman. 
My blade of choice for the type work I do mostly, with Olson blades, was a #2. 
That same size blade, in Flying Dutchmans, is a #3. 
Once you realize that though, the blade size differences correspond all the way across the spectrum though. For example, a #5 FD is similar to a #4 Olson, and so on. I hope that makes sense.
I was wondering if anyone knew what other companies designate for their blades, and how they correspond. I think they could all be corresponded to Olson, since that usually seems to be the most used blade. If this information was available, it would help people if they were to want to try a different brand blade.


----------



## scrollgirl

*Cutting Outside Curves*

Now that we have had a chance to practice casting on and off, we are going to practice a bit more on cutting outside curves.










Cutting curves is probably one of the easiest things to do on a scroll saw. Most designs consist mainly of curved lines, with occasional straight runs from time to time. Once you get used to cutting curves and turning corners accurately, you are well on your way to being a great scroller.

One thing that is important to remember is that the blade is stationary and you are going to be moving your pieces through and around it. Unlike other types of tools like a circular saw or a router, where you actually move the tool over your piece, you will be doing the opposite when using your scroll saw by turning, pivoting and guiding your piece through the blade. I know that may seem obvious when you first read this, but it is important to tune your mind into that way of thinking and it will make scrolling much easier for you to accomplish.

Because of this way of thinking, the more control you have over moving your piece through the blade, the more accurate your cutting will be. This is something that is not always easy at first for some people, but with a little time and patience will become almost second nature. In order to show you some of the little tips I have learned over the years, Let's begin cutting a shape.

Let's start with the simple 's' shape that I provided in the practice patterns in Lesson #2. This piece, although simple, has both left and right turns for you to practice on.

Begin by casting on from the right side, aiming for the mark that I indicated as a starting point on the pattern. Remember to use the time you are moving from the edge to the point of beginning the design as a time to make any necessary adjustments to your saw such as speed and to get a feel for they type of wood you are doing. Also remember to slow down a bit before you get to the line, so you give time for the blade to relax and get ready to turn. This will soon come naturally to you and you won't have to even think about it anymore.

Turn the piece in a counter-clockwise direction and begin to cut out your shape and follow the line. I have had several inquiries regarding whether I cut 'inside the line' or 'outside the line' and although that I know of several scroller that use one of these methods, I prefer to cut directly ON the line and follow it as close as possible.

While you are cutting, remember to keep your elbows down and your arms relaxed. Have your saw going at a comfortable pace - not too aggressive at first so you can become accustom to moving through the wood. You will have plenty of time to speed up later on if you wish as you are more comfortable with what you are doing. Keep your wrists relaxed, too and use your fingertips to gently guide the wood through the saw. Continue using gentle and even pressure around the slight curve until you are coming up to point 'A' in the diagram.

As you approach point 'A', you are going to begin to apply slightly more pressure with your left hand to make a pivot point and use your right hand to gently guide the wood around that pivot point, causing your wood to turn to the left. Since this is a wide curve, the action is subtle and does not need to be over done. Use a slight shift in the weight of your hands and the movements will come to you naturally, like turning the wheel of a car. As you approach point 'B', redistribute the weight of your hands so that it is again almost equal by the time you are at point 'B'. This will all occur very quickly, but will also begin to come to you naturally as you practice. (I have indicated when most of the pivoting will occur by using a dotted line)










Continue around the figure, once again leveling off your pressure as you work around the curved area from point 'B' to point 'C'.










Once you begin to approach point 'C', again begin to place slightly heavier pressure on your left, or pivoting hand and begin turning the piece counter-clockwise with your right hand. This time we are doing a full curve, so you will want to turn in steps, carefully lifting and replacing your right hand further toward the bottom of the piece so that you can guide it through the blade. For the most part, during this turn your left hand will remain in place, holding the piece down as you are turning. (Again, the place where you will be pivoting most is indicated by the dotted line)










As you pass point 'D', you will again begin to relax both hands and equalize the pressure you are using from both hand to continue to guide your piece through the blade. Continue to cut until you approach point 'E'.










As you get close to point 'E', this time you will once again begin to put a little more pressure on your left hand, but this time you will begin turning the wood in a clockwise direction, following the line to point 'F' where you once again equalize the pressure between your two hands. (Pivoting most where the dotted lines indicate, between points 'E' and 'F')










Continue around the piece until you approach your entry point. You will continually be adjusting the pressure of both hands and steering the piece through the blade. As you get close to your entry point, slow down and aim for the point where you started your cutting on the line. Allow the saw to do the work and guide the piece so the blade meets up with the entry spot as seamlessly as possible.

I have a short video which shows me cutting the piece out. I apologize for it being slightly dark, as I was experimenting to see if you would be able to see the lines better without my bright light. Problem was that I also was not able to see as well as usual to stay on the line!  I may try to reshoot tomorrow, but I am not sure if it is necessary or not. Let me know if you get a chance what you think. I think that it gets all the points that I wanted to across so I left it as is.






I suggest you practice on some of your shapes that I provided for you on the training pattern in Lesson 2. The rounded shape such as the circles, ovals and stars will help you get a good feel for the blade and saw in general. I am going to stop here, and next time we will be learning about outside soft corners and hard corners. Remember if you have any questions or comments I will be keeping watch so that I can help you quickly. I am sure that others here will have some thoughts to share too.

Thanks for stopping by. I hope you are enjoying things so far.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Outside Curves*
> 
> Now that we have had a chance to practice casting on and off, we are going to practice a bit more on cutting outside curves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting curves is probably one of the easiest things to do on a scroll saw. Most designs consist mainly of curved lines, with occasional straight runs from time to time. Once you get used to cutting curves and turning corners accurately, you are well on your way to being a great scroller.
> 
> One thing that is important to remember is that the blade is stationary and you are going to be moving your pieces through and around it. Unlike other types of tools like a circular saw or a router, where you actually move the tool over your piece, you will be doing the opposite when using your scroll saw by turning, pivoting and guiding your piece through the blade. I know that may seem obvious when you first read this, but it is important to tune your mind into that way of thinking and it will make scrolling much easier for you to accomplish.
> 
> Because of this way of thinking, the more control you have over moving your piece through the blade, the more accurate your cutting will be. This is something that is not always easy at first for some people, but with a little time and patience will become almost second nature. In order to show you some of the little tips I have learned over the years, Let's begin cutting a shape.
> 
> Let's start with the simple 's' shape that I provided in the practice patterns in Lesson #2. This piece, although simple, has both left and right turns for you to practice on.
> 
> Begin by casting on from the right side, aiming for the mark that I indicated as a starting point on the pattern. Remember to use the time you are moving from the edge to the point of beginning the design as a time to make any necessary adjustments to your saw such as speed and to get a feel for they type of wood you are doing. Also remember to slow down a bit before you get to the line, so you give time for the blade to relax and get ready to turn. This will soon come naturally to you and you won't have to even think about it anymore.
> 
> Turn the piece in a counter-clockwise direction and begin to cut out your shape and follow the line. I have had several inquiries regarding whether I cut 'inside the line' or 'outside the line' and although that I know of several scroller that use one of these methods, I prefer to cut directly ON the line and follow it as close as possible.
> 
> While you are cutting, remember to keep your elbows down and your arms relaxed. Have your saw going at a comfortable pace - not too aggressive at first so you can become accustom to moving through the wood. You will have plenty of time to speed up later on if you wish as you are more comfortable with what you are doing. Keep your wrists relaxed, too and use your fingertips to gently guide the wood through the saw. Continue using gentle and even pressure around the slight curve until you are coming up to point 'A' in the diagram.
> 
> As you approach point 'A', you are going to begin to apply slightly more pressure with your left hand to make a pivot point and use your right hand to gently guide the wood around that pivot point, causing your wood to turn to the left. Since this is a wide curve, the action is subtle and does not need to be over done. Use a slight shift in the weight of your hands and the movements will come to you naturally, like turning the wheel of a car. As you approach point 'B', redistribute the weight of your hands so that it is again almost equal by the time you are at point 'B'. This will all occur very quickly, but will also begin to come to you naturally as you practice. (I have indicated when most of the pivoting will occur by using a dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the figure, once again leveling off your pressure as you work around the curved area from point 'B' to point 'C'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you begin to approach point 'C', again begin to place slightly heavier pressure on your left, or pivoting hand and begin turning the piece counter-clockwise with your right hand. This time we are doing a full curve, so you will want to turn in steps, carefully lifting and replacing your right hand further toward the bottom of the piece so that you can guide it through the blade. For the most part, during this turn your left hand will remain in place, holding the piece down as you are turning. (Again, the place where you will be pivoting most is indicated by the dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you pass point 'D', you will again begin to relax both hands and equalize the pressure you are using from both hand to continue to guide your piece through the blade. Continue to cut until you approach point 'E'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you get close to point 'E', this time you will once again begin to put a little more pressure on your left hand, but this time you will begin turning the wood in a clockwise direction, following the line to point 'F' where you once again equalize the pressure between your two hands. (Pivoting most where the dotted lines indicate, between points 'E' and 'F')
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the piece until you approach your entry point. You will continually be adjusting the pressure of both hands and steering the piece through the blade. As you get close to your entry point, slow down and aim for the point where you started your cutting on the line. Allow the saw to do the work and guide the piece so the blade meets up with the entry spot as seamlessly as possible.
> 
> I have a short video which shows me cutting the piece out. I apologize for it being slightly dark, as I was experimenting to see if you would be able to see the lines better without my bright light. Problem was that I also was not able to see as well as usual to stay on the line!  I may try to reshoot tomorrow, but I am not sure if it is necessary or not. Let me know if you get a chance what you think. I think that it gets all the points that I wanted to across so I left it as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suggest you practice on some of your shapes that I provided for you on the training pattern in Lesson 2. The rounded shape such as the circles, ovals and stars will help you get a good feel for the blade and saw in general. I am going to stop here, and next time we will be learning about outside soft corners and hard corners. Remember if you have any questions or comments I will be keeping watch so that I can help you quickly. I am sure that others here will have some thoughts to share too.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by. I hope you are enjoying things so far.


Great lesson.
You mentioned practice. 
I am a seasoned scroll sawyer. Yet, when I haven't been at my saw in a while, I still sometimes do a practice piece to "get my scrolling groove back".
I'll take a scrap piece of wood. I'll draw circles, squiggles, zigzags, just whatever on it, and cut it. This is a great way to get anyone, beginner or experienced, to practice. Practice makes anything better.


----------



## rance

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Outside Curves*
> 
> Now that we have had a chance to practice casting on and off, we are going to practice a bit more on cutting outside curves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting curves is probably one of the easiest things to do on a scroll saw. Most designs consist mainly of curved lines, with occasional straight runs from time to time. Once you get used to cutting curves and turning corners accurately, you are well on your way to being a great scroller.
> 
> One thing that is important to remember is that the blade is stationary and you are going to be moving your pieces through and around it. Unlike other types of tools like a circular saw or a router, where you actually move the tool over your piece, you will be doing the opposite when using your scroll saw by turning, pivoting and guiding your piece through the blade. I know that may seem obvious when you first read this, but it is important to tune your mind into that way of thinking and it will make scrolling much easier for you to accomplish.
> 
> Because of this way of thinking, the more control you have over moving your piece through the blade, the more accurate your cutting will be. This is something that is not always easy at first for some people, but with a little time and patience will become almost second nature. In order to show you some of the little tips I have learned over the years, Let's begin cutting a shape.
> 
> Let's start with the simple 's' shape that I provided in the practice patterns in Lesson #2. This piece, although simple, has both left and right turns for you to practice on.
> 
> Begin by casting on from the right side, aiming for the mark that I indicated as a starting point on the pattern. Remember to use the time you are moving from the edge to the point of beginning the design as a time to make any necessary adjustments to your saw such as speed and to get a feel for they type of wood you are doing. Also remember to slow down a bit before you get to the line, so you give time for the blade to relax and get ready to turn. This will soon come naturally to you and you won't have to even think about it anymore.
> 
> Turn the piece in a counter-clockwise direction and begin to cut out your shape and follow the line. I have had several inquiries regarding whether I cut 'inside the line' or 'outside the line' and although that I know of several scroller that use one of these methods, I prefer to cut directly ON the line and follow it as close as possible.
> 
> While you are cutting, remember to keep your elbows down and your arms relaxed. Have your saw going at a comfortable pace - not too aggressive at first so you can become accustom to moving through the wood. You will have plenty of time to speed up later on if you wish as you are more comfortable with what you are doing. Keep your wrists relaxed, too and use your fingertips to gently guide the wood through the saw. Continue using gentle and even pressure around the slight curve until you are coming up to point 'A' in the diagram.
> 
> As you approach point 'A', you are going to begin to apply slightly more pressure with your left hand to make a pivot point and use your right hand to gently guide the wood around that pivot point, causing your wood to turn to the left. Since this is a wide curve, the action is subtle and does not need to be over done. Use a slight shift in the weight of your hands and the movements will come to you naturally, like turning the wheel of a car. As you approach point 'B', redistribute the weight of your hands so that it is again almost equal by the time you are at point 'B'. This will all occur very quickly, but will also begin to come to you naturally as you practice. (I have indicated when most of the pivoting will occur by using a dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the figure, once again leveling off your pressure as you work around the curved area from point 'B' to point 'C'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you begin to approach point 'C', again begin to place slightly heavier pressure on your left, or pivoting hand and begin turning the piece counter-clockwise with your right hand. This time we are doing a full curve, so you will want to turn in steps, carefully lifting and replacing your right hand further toward the bottom of the piece so that you can guide it through the blade. For the most part, during this turn your left hand will remain in place, holding the piece down as you are turning. (Again, the place where you will be pivoting most is indicated by the dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you pass point 'D', you will again begin to relax both hands and equalize the pressure you are using from both hand to continue to guide your piece through the blade. Continue to cut until you approach point 'E'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you get close to point 'E', this time you will once again begin to put a little more pressure on your left hand, but this time you will begin turning the wood in a clockwise direction, following the line to point 'F' where you once again equalize the pressure between your two hands. (Pivoting most where the dotted lines indicate, between points 'E' and 'F')
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the piece until you approach your entry point. You will continually be adjusting the pressure of both hands and steering the piece through the blade. As you get close to your entry point, slow down and aim for the point where you started your cutting on the line. Allow the saw to do the work and guide the piece so the blade meets up with the entry spot as seamlessly as possible.
> 
> I have a short video which shows me cutting the piece out. I apologize for it being slightly dark, as I was experimenting to see if you would be able to see the lines better without my bright light. Problem was that I also was not able to see as well as usual to stay on the line!  I may try to reshoot tomorrow, but I am not sure if it is necessary or not. Let me know if you get a chance what you think. I think that it gets all the points that I wanted to across so I left it as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suggest you practice on some of your shapes that I provided for you on the training pattern in Lesson 2. The rounded shape such as the circles, ovals and stars will help you get a good feel for the blade and saw in general. I am going to stop here, and next time we will be learning about outside soft corners and hard corners. Remember if you have any questions or comments I will be keeping watch so that I can help you quickly. I am sure that others here will have some thoughts to share too.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by. I hope you are enjoying things so far.


MUCH better on the video Sheila. I could see clearly what you were doing. I'll watch it again later with the sound ON.  My wife is sleeping right now. I'll cut some curves next time I get back in front of the saw.


----------



## tomd

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Outside Curves*
> 
> Now that we have had a chance to practice casting on and off, we are going to practice a bit more on cutting outside curves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting curves is probably one of the easiest things to do on a scroll saw. Most designs consist mainly of curved lines, with occasional straight runs from time to time. Once you get used to cutting curves and turning corners accurately, you are well on your way to being a great scroller.
> 
> One thing that is important to remember is that the blade is stationary and you are going to be moving your pieces through and around it. Unlike other types of tools like a circular saw or a router, where you actually move the tool over your piece, you will be doing the opposite when using your scroll saw by turning, pivoting and guiding your piece through the blade. I know that may seem obvious when you first read this, but it is important to tune your mind into that way of thinking and it will make scrolling much easier for you to accomplish.
> 
> Because of this way of thinking, the more control you have over moving your piece through the blade, the more accurate your cutting will be. This is something that is not always easy at first for some people, but with a little time and patience will become almost second nature. In order to show you some of the little tips I have learned over the years, Let's begin cutting a shape.
> 
> Let's start with the simple 's' shape that I provided in the practice patterns in Lesson #2. This piece, although simple, has both left and right turns for you to practice on.
> 
> Begin by casting on from the right side, aiming for the mark that I indicated as a starting point on the pattern. Remember to use the time you are moving from the edge to the point of beginning the design as a time to make any necessary adjustments to your saw such as speed and to get a feel for they type of wood you are doing. Also remember to slow down a bit before you get to the line, so you give time for the blade to relax and get ready to turn. This will soon come naturally to you and you won't have to even think about it anymore.
> 
> Turn the piece in a counter-clockwise direction and begin to cut out your shape and follow the line. I have had several inquiries regarding whether I cut 'inside the line' or 'outside the line' and although that I know of several scroller that use one of these methods, I prefer to cut directly ON the line and follow it as close as possible.
> 
> While you are cutting, remember to keep your elbows down and your arms relaxed. Have your saw going at a comfortable pace - not too aggressive at first so you can become accustom to moving through the wood. You will have plenty of time to speed up later on if you wish as you are more comfortable with what you are doing. Keep your wrists relaxed, too and use your fingertips to gently guide the wood through the saw. Continue using gentle and even pressure around the slight curve until you are coming up to point 'A' in the diagram.
> 
> As you approach point 'A', you are going to begin to apply slightly more pressure with your left hand to make a pivot point and use your right hand to gently guide the wood around that pivot point, causing your wood to turn to the left. Since this is a wide curve, the action is subtle and does not need to be over done. Use a slight shift in the weight of your hands and the movements will come to you naturally, like turning the wheel of a car. As you approach point 'B', redistribute the weight of your hands so that it is again almost equal by the time you are at point 'B'. This will all occur very quickly, but will also begin to come to you naturally as you practice. (I have indicated when most of the pivoting will occur by using a dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the figure, once again leveling off your pressure as you work around the curved area from point 'B' to point 'C'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you begin to approach point 'C', again begin to place slightly heavier pressure on your left, or pivoting hand and begin turning the piece counter-clockwise with your right hand. This time we are doing a full curve, so you will want to turn in steps, carefully lifting and replacing your right hand further toward the bottom of the piece so that you can guide it through the blade. For the most part, during this turn your left hand will remain in place, holding the piece down as you are turning. (Again, the place where you will be pivoting most is indicated by the dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you pass point 'D', you will again begin to relax both hands and equalize the pressure you are using from both hand to continue to guide your piece through the blade. Continue to cut until you approach point 'E'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you get close to point 'E', this time you will once again begin to put a little more pressure on your left hand, but this time you will begin turning the wood in a clockwise direction, following the line to point 'F' where you once again equalize the pressure between your two hands. (Pivoting most where the dotted lines indicate, between points 'E' and 'F')
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the piece until you approach your entry point. You will continually be adjusting the pressure of both hands and steering the piece through the blade. As you get close to your entry point, slow down and aim for the point where you started your cutting on the line. Allow the saw to do the work and guide the piece so the blade meets up with the entry spot as seamlessly as possible.
> 
> I have a short video which shows me cutting the piece out. I apologize for it being slightly dark, as I was experimenting to see if you would be able to see the lines better without my bright light. Problem was that I also was not able to see as well as usual to stay on the line!  I may try to reshoot tomorrow, but I am not sure if it is necessary or not. Let me know if you get a chance what you think. I think that it gets all the points that I wanted to across so I left it as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suggest you practice on some of your shapes that I provided for you on the training pattern in Lesson 2. The rounded shape such as the circles, ovals and stars will help you get a good feel for the blade and saw in general. I am going to stop here, and next time we will be learning about outside soft corners and hard corners. Remember if you have any questions or comments I will be keeping watch so that I can help you quickly. I am sure that others here will have some thoughts to share too.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by. I hope you are enjoying things so far.


Thank you for the time and effort you put into this tutorial, I appreciate it and I'm sure others do too. No matter how slow I turn the saw down to, it still seems too fast for me.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Outside Curves*
> 
> Now that we have had a chance to practice casting on and off, we are going to practice a bit more on cutting outside curves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting curves is probably one of the easiest things to do on a scroll saw. Most designs consist mainly of curved lines, with occasional straight runs from time to time. Once you get used to cutting curves and turning corners accurately, you are well on your way to being a great scroller.
> 
> One thing that is important to remember is that the blade is stationary and you are going to be moving your pieces through and around it. Unlike other types of tools like a circular saw or a router, where you actually move the tool over your piece, you will be doing the opposite when using your scroll saw by turning, pivoting and guiding your piece through the blade. I know that may seem obvious when you first read this, but it is important to tune your mind into that way of thinking and it will make scrolling much easier for you to accomplish.
> 
> Because of this way of thinking, the more control you have over moving your piece through the blade, the more accurate your cutting will be. This is something that is not always easy at first for some people, but with a little time and patience will become almost second nature. In order to show you some of the little tips I have learned over the years, Let's begin cutting a shape.
> 
> Let's start with the simple 's' shape that I provided in the practice patterns in Lesson #2. This piece, although simple, has both left and right turns for you to practice on.
> 
> Begin by casting on from the right side, aiming for the mark that I indicated as a starting point on the pattern. Remember to use the time you are moving from the edge to the point of beginning the design as a time to make any necessary adjustments to your saw such as speed and to get a feel for they type of wood you are doing. Also remember to slow down a bit before you get to the line, so you give time for the blade to relax and get ready to turn. This will soon come naturally to you and you won't have to even think about it anymore.
> 
> Turn the piece in a counter-clockwise direction and begin to cut out your shape and follow the line. I have had several inquiries regarding whether I cut 'inside the line' or 'outside the line' and although that I know of several scroller that use one of these methods, I prefer to cut directly ON the line and follow it as close as possible.
> 
> While you are cutting, remember to keep your elbows down and your arms relaxed. Have your saw going at a comfortable pace - not too aggressive at first so you can become accustom to moving through the wood. You will have plenty of time to speed up later on if you wish as you are more comfortable with what you are doing. Keep your wrists relaxed, too and use your fingertips to gently guide the wood through the saw. Continue using gentle and even pressure around the slight curve until you are coming up to point 'A' in the diagram.
> 
> As you approach point 'A', you are going to begin to apply slightly more pressure with your left hand to make a pivot point and use your right hand to gently guide the wood around that pivot point, causing your wood to turn to the left. Since this is a wide curve, the action is subtle and does not need to be over done. Use a slight shift in the weight of your hands and the movements will come to you naturally, like turning the wheel of a car. As you approach point 'B', redistribute the weight of your hands so that it is again almost equal by the time you are at point 'B'. This will all occur very quickly, but will also begin to come to you naturally as you practice. (I have indicated when most of the pivoting will occur by using a dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the figure, once again leveling off your pressure as you work around the curved area from point 'B' to point 'C'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you begin to approach point 'C', again begin to place slightly heavier pressure on your left, or pivoting hand and begin turning the piece counter-clockwise with your right hand. This time we are doing a full curve, so you will want to turn in steps, carefully lifting and replacing your right hand further toward the bottom of the piece so that you can guide it through the blade. For the most part, during this turn your left hand will remain in place, holding the piece down as you are turning. (Again, the place where you will be pivoting most is indicated by the dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you pass point 'D', you will again begin to relax both hands and equalize the pressure you are using from both hand to continue to guide your piece through the blade. Continue to cut until you approach point 'E'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you get close to point 'E', this time you will once again begin to put a little more pressure on your left hand, but this time you will begin turning the wood in a clockwise direction, following the line to point 'F' where you once again equalize the pressure between your two hands. (Pivoting most where the dotted lines indicate, between points 'E' and 'F')
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the piece until you approach your entry point. You will continually be adjusting the pressure of both hands and steering the piece through the blade. As you get close to your entry point, slow down and aim for the point where you started your cutting on the line. Allow the saw to do the work and guide the piece so the blade meets up with the entry spot as seamlessly as possible.
> 
> I have a short video which shows me cutting the piece out. I apologize for it being slightly dark, as I was experimenting to see if you would be able to see the lines better without my bright light. Problem was that I also was not able to see as well as usual to stay on the line!  I may try to reshoot tomorrow, but I am not sure if it is necessary or not. Let me know if you get a chance what you think. I think that it gets all the points that I wanted to across so I left it as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suggest you practice on some of your shapes that I provided for you on the training pattern in Lesson 2. The rounded shape such as the circles, ovals and stars will help you get a good feel for the blade and saw in general. I am going to stop here, and next time we will be learning about outside soft corners and hard corners. Remember if you have any questions or comments I will be keeping watch so that I can help you quickly. I am sure that others here will have some thoughts to share too.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by. I hope you are enjoying things so far.


Thank you all!
Yes, William - I think the best thing to do is keep trying on different woods and seeing how different blades sizes react. Experience is the best teacher and we can't be afraid to make some designer firewood every now and then!

-Thank you too, Rance. I tried shooting without the light from the saw on. I know the video is darker overall, but I do feel that you can at least see the lines and what is going on. As I said though, I had some trouble seeing the lines! LOL My old eyes aren't like they used to be! I may or may not shoot the video over, as it does get across the points I was trying to make. I will just have to see. 

-And Tom - sometimes you can go too slow on the saw. If the wood catches on the blade and it chatters, it will scare the bejesus out of you. Instead of slowing down the saw speed, slow down the rate that you push the wood through the saw. Use less forward pressure and as I said, pivot more than go forward on the curves. Soon you will feel much more comfortable.

I appreciate the comments that you have made and hope this helped you a bit. 

Sheila


----------



## huntter2022

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Outside Curves*
> 
> Now that we have had a chance to practice casting on and off, we are going to practice a bit more on cutting outside curves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting curves is probably one of the easiest things to do on a scroll saw. Most designs consist mainly of curved lines, with occasional straight runs from time to time. Once you get used to cutting curves and turning corners accurately, you are well on your way to being a great scroller.
> 
> One thing that is important to remember is that the blade is stationary and you are going to be moving your pieces through and around it. Unlike other types of tools like a circular saw or a router, where you actually move the tool over your piece, you will be doing the opposite when using your scroll saw by turning, pivoting and guiding your piece through the blade. I know that may seem obvious when you first read this, but it is important to tune your mind into that way of thinking and it will make scrolling much easier for you to accomplish.
> 
> Because of this way of thinking, the more control you have over moving your piece through the blade, the more accurate your cutting will be. This is something that is not always easy at first for some people, but with a little time and patience will become almost second nature. In order to show you some of the little tips I have learned over the years, Let's begin cutting a shape.
> 
> Let's start with the simple 's' shape that I provided in the practice patterns in Lesson #2. This piece, although simple, has both left and right turns for you to practice on.
> 
> Begin by casting on from the right side, aiming for the mark that I indicated as a starting point on the pattern. Remember to use the time you are moving from the edge to the point of beginning the design as a time to make any necessary adjustments to your saw such as speed and to get a feel for they type of wood you are doing. Also remember to slow down a bit before you get to the line, so you give time for the blade to relax and get ready to turn. This will soon come naturally to you and you won't have to even think about it anymore.
> 
> Turn the piece in a counter-clockwise direction and begin to cut out your shape and follow the line. I have had several inquiries regarding whether I cut 'inside the line' or 'outside the line' and although that I know of several scroller that use one of these methods, I prefer to cut directly ON the line and follow it as close as possible.
> 
> While you are cutting, remember to keep your elbows down and your arms relaxed. Have your saw going at a comfortable pace - not too aggressive at first so you can become accustom to moving through the wood. You will have plenty of time to speed up later on if you wish as you are more comfortable with what you are doing. Keep your wrists relaxed, too and use your fingertips to gently guide the wood through the saw. Continue using gentle and even pressure around the slight curve until you are coming up to point 'A' in the diagram.
> 
> As you approach point 'A', you are going to begin to apply slightly more pressure with your left hand to make a pivot point and use your right hand to gently guide the wood around that pivot point, causing your wood to turn to the left. Since this is a wide curve, the action is subtle and does not need to be over done. Use a slight shift in the weight of your hands and the movements will come to you naturally, like turning the wheel of a car. As you approach point 'B', redistribute the weight of your hands so that it is again almost equal by the time you are at point 'B'. This will all occur very quickly, but will also begin to come to you naturally as you practice. (I have indicated when most of the pivoting will occur by using a dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the figure, once again leveling off your pressure as you work around the curved area from point 'B' to point 'C'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you begin to approach point 'C', again begin to place slightly heavier pressure on your left, or pivoting hand and begin turning the piece counter-clockwise with your right hand. This time we are doing a full curve, so you will want to turn in steps, carefully lifting and replacing your right hand further toward the bottom of the piece so that you can guide it through the blade. For the most part, during this turn your left hand will remain in place, holding the piece down as you are turning. (Again, the place where you will be pivoting most is indicated by the dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you pass point 'D', you will again begin to relax both hands and equalize the pressure you are using from both hand to continue to guide your piece through the blade. Continue to cut until you approach point 'E'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you get close to point 'E', this time you will once again begin to put a little more pressure on your left hand, but this time you will begin turning the wood in a clockwise direction, following the line to point 'F' where you once again equalize the pressure between your two hands. (Pivoting most where the dotted lines indicate, between points 'E' and 'F')
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the piece until you approach your entry point. You will continually be adjusting the pressure of both hands and steering the piece through the blade. As you get close to your entry point, slow down and aim for the point where you started your cutting on the line. Allow the saw to do the work and guide the piece so the blade meets up with the entry spot as seamlessly as possible.
> 
> I have a short video which shows me cutting the piece out. I apologize for it being slightly dark, as I was experimenting to see if you would be able to see the lines better without my bright light. Problem was that I also was not able to see as well as usual to stay on the line!  I may try to reshoot tomorrow, but I am not sure if it is necessary or not. Let me know if you get a chance what you think. I think that it gets all the points that I wanted to across so I left it as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suggest you practice on some of your shapes that I provided for you on the training pattern in Lesson 2. The rounded shape such as the circles, ovals and stars will help you get a good feel for the blade and saw in general. I am going to stop here, and next time we will be learning about outside soft corners and hard corners. Remember if you have any questions or comments I will be keeping watch so that I can help you quickly. I am sure that others here will have some thoughts to share too.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by. I hope you are enjoying things so far.


Shelia ! Shelia ! What have you done , great job on another lesson.

If you have a problem seeing the line print the pattern cut lines in another color like red . This way the blade does not blend in with the line

All this slowing up here and there and pivoting may seem like alot but after you have cut a little while it comes natural and you don't really realize your doing it

Tom , turn your speed about halfway (at least or more), and guide the wood as you were slow dancing with a lady and hoping the music never stops


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Outside Curves*
> 
> Now that we have had a chance to practice casting on and off, we are going to practice a bit more on cutting outside curves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting curves is probably one of the easiest things to do on a scroll saw. Most designs consist mainly of curved lines, with occasional straight runs from time to time. Once you get used to cutting curves and turning corners accurately, you are well on your way to being a great scroller.
> 
> One thing that is important to remember is that the blade is stationary and you are going to be moving your pieces through and around it. Unlike other types of tools like a circular saw or a router, where you actually move the tool over your piece, you will be doing the opposite when using your scroll saw by turning, pivoting and guiding your piece through the blade. I know that may seem obvious when you first read this, but it is important to tune your mind into that way of thinking and it will make scrolling much easier for you to accomplish.
> 
> Because of this way of thinking, the more control you have over moving your piece through the blade, the more accurate your cutting will be. This is something that is not always easy at first for some people, but with a little time and patience will become almost second nature. In order to show you some of the little tips I have learned over the years, Let's begin cutting a shape.
> 
> Let's start with the simple 's' shape that I provided in the practice patterns in Lesson #2. This piece, although simple, has both left and right turns for you to practice on.
> 
> Begin by casting on from the right side, aiming for the mark that I indicated as a starting point on the pattern. Remember to use the time you are moving from the edge to the point of beginning the design as a time to make any necessary adjustments to your saw such as speed and to get a feel for they type of wood you are doing. Also remember to slow down a bit before you get to the line, so you give time for the blade to relax and get ready to turn. This will soon come naturally to you and you won't have to even think about it anymore.
> 
> Turn the piece in a counter-clockwise direction and begin to cut out your shape and follow the line. I have had several inquiries regarding whether I cut 'inside the line' or 'outside the line' and although that I know of several scroller that use one of these methods, I prefer to cut directly ON the line and follow it as close as possible.
> 
> While you are cutting, remember to keep your elbows down and your arms relaxed. Have your saw going at a comfortable pace - not too aggressive at first so you can become accustom to moving through the wood. You will have plenty of time to speed up later on if you wish as you are more comfortable with what you are doing. Keep your wrists relaxed, too and use your fingertips to gently guide the wood through the saw. Continue using gentle and even pressure around the slight curve until you are coming up to point 'A' in the diagram.
> 
> As you approach point 'A', you are going to begin to apply slightly more pressure with your left hand to make a pivot point and use your right hand to gently guide the wood around that pivot point, causing your wood to turn to the left. Since this is a wide curve, the action is subtle and does not need to be over done. Use a slight shift in the weight of your hands and the movements will come to you naturally, like turning the wheel of a car. As you approach point 'B', redistribute the weight of your hands so that it is again almost equal by the time you are at point 'B'. This will all occur very quickly, but will also begin to come to you naturally as you practice. (I have indicated when most of the pivoting will occur by using a dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the figure, once again leveling off your pressure as you work around the curved area from point 'B' to point 'C'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you begin to approach point 'C', again begin to place slightly heavier pressure on your left, or pivoting hand and begin turning the piece counter-clockwise with your right hand. This time we are doing a full curve, so you will want to turn in steps, carefully lifting and replacing your right hand further toward the bottom of the piece so that you can guide it through the blade. For the most part, during this turn your left hand will remain in place, holding the piece down as you are turning. (Again, the place where you will be pivoting most is indicated by the dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you pass point 'D', you will again begin to relax both hands and equalize the pressure you are using from both hand to continue to guide your piece through the blade. Continue to cut until you approach point 'E'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you get close to point 'E', this time you will once again begin to put a little more pressure on your left hand, but this time you will begin turning the wood in a clockwise direction, following the line to point 'F' where you once again equalize the pressure between your two hands. (Pivoting most where the dotted lines indicate, between points 'E' and 'F')
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the piece until you approach your entry point. You will continually be adjusting the pressure of both hands and steering the piece through the blade. As you get close to your entry point, slow down and aim for the point where you started your cutting on the line. Allow the saw to do the work and guide the piece so the blade meets up with the entry spot as seamlessly as possible.
> 
> I have a short video which shows me cutting the piece out. I apologize for it being slightly dark, as I was experimenting to see if you would be able to see the lines better without my bright light. Problem was that I also was not able to see as well as usual to stay on the line!  I may try to reshoot tomorrow, but I am not sure if it is necessary or not. Let me know if you get a chance what you think. I think that it gets all the points that I wanted to across so I left it as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suggest you practice on some of your shapes that I provided for you on the training pattern in Lesson 2. The rounded shape such as the circles, ovals and stars will help you get a good feel for the blade and saw in general. I am going to stop here, and next time we will be learning about outside soft corners and hard corners. Remember if you have any questions or comments I will be keeping watch so that I can help you quickly. I am sure that others here will have some thoughts to share too.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by. I hope you are enjoying things so far.


Thanks David! The reason that I can't see isn't the color, it was because I cut the saw light. Although I do hear from some that they like red lines. That is a great point you brought up. I am glad you liked the lesson. 

Sheila


----------



## stevebuk

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Outside Curves*
> 
> Now that we have had a chance to practice casting on and off, we are going to practice a bit more on cutting outside curves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting curves is probably one of the easiest things to do on a scroll saw. Most designs consist mainly of curved lines, with occasional straight runs from time to time. Once you get used to cutting curves and turning corners accurately, you are well on your way to being a great scroller.
> 
> One thing that is important to remember is that the blade is stationary and you are going to be moving your pieces through and around it. Unlike other types of tools like a circular saw or a router, where you actually move the tool over your piece, you will be doing the opposite when using your scroll saw by turning, pivoting and guiding your piece through the blade. I know that may seem obvious when you first read this, but it is important to tune your mind into that way of thinking and it will make scrolling much easier for you to accomplish.
> 
> Because of this way of thinking, the more control you have over moving your piece through the blade, the more accurate your cutting will be. This is something that is not always easy at first for some people, but with a little time and patience will become almost second nature. In order to show you some of the little tips I have learned over the years, Let's begin cutting a shape.
> 
> Let's start with the simple 's' shape that I provided in the practice patterns in Lesson #2. This piece, although simple, has both left and right turns for you to practice on.
> 
> Begin by casting on from the right side, aiming for the mark that I indicated as a starting point on the pattern. Remember to use the time you are moving from the edge to the point of beginning the design as a time to make any necessary adjustments to your saw such as speed and to get a feel for they type of wood you are doing. Also remember to slow down a bit before you get to the line, so you give time for the blade to relax and get ready to turn. This will soon come naturally to you and you won't have to even think about it anymore.
> 
> Turn the piece in a counter-clockwise direction and begin to cut out your shape and follow the line. I have had several inquiries regarding whether I cut 'inside the line' or 'outside the line' and although that I know of several scroller that use one of these methods, I prefer to cut directly ON the line and follow it as close as possible.
> 
> While you are cutting, remember to keep your elbows down and your arms relaxed. Have your saw going at a comfortable pace - not too aggressive at first so you can become accustom to moving through the wood. You will have plenty of time to speed up later on if you wish as you are more comfortable with what you are doing. Keep your wrists relaxed, too and use your fingertips to gently guide the wood through the saw. Continue using gentle and even pressure around the slight curve until you are coming up to point 'A' in the diagram.
> 
> As you approach point 'A', you are going to begin to apply slightly more pressure with your left hand to make a pivot point and use your right hand to gently guide the wood around that pivot point, causing your wood to turn to the left. Since this is a wide curve, the action is subtle and does not need to be over done. Use a slight shift in the weight of your hands and the movements will come to you naturally, like turning the wheel of a car. As you approach point 'B', redistribute the weight of your hands so that it is again almost equal by the time you are at point 'B'. This will all occur very quickly, but will also begin to come to you naturally as you practice. (I have indicated when most of the pivoting will occur by using a dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the figure, once again leveling off your pressure as you work around the curved area from point 'B' to point 'C'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you begin to approach point 'C', again begin to place slightly heavier pressure on your left, or pivoting hand and begin turning the piece counter-clockwise with your right hand. This time we are doing a full curve, so you will want to turn in steps, carefully lifting and replacing your right hand further toward the bottom of the piece so that you can guide it through the blade. For the most part, during this turn your left hand will remain in place, holding the piece down as you are turning. (Again, the place where you will be pivoting most is indicated by the dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you pass point 'D', you will again begin to relax both hands and equalize the pressure you are using from both hand to continue to guide your piece through the blade. Continue to cut until you approach point 'E'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you get close to point 'E', this time you will once again begin to put a little more pressure on your left hand, but this time you will begin turning the wood in a clockwise direction, following the line to point 'F' where you once again equalize the pressure between your two hands. (Pivoting most where the dotted lines indicate, between points 'E' and 'F')
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the piece until you approach your entry point. You will continually be adjusting the pressure of both hands and steering the piece through the blade. As you get close to your entry point, slow down and aim for the point where you started your cutting on the line. Allow the saw to do the work and guide the piece so the blade meets up with the entry spot as seamlessly as possible.
> 
> I have a short video which shows me cutting the piece out. I apologize for it being slightly dark, as I was experimenting to see if you would be able to see the lines better without my bright light. Problem was that I also was not able to see as well as usual to stay on the line!  I may try to reshoot tomorrow, but I am not sure if it is necessary or not. Let me know if you get a chance what you think. I think that it gets all the points that I wanted to across so I left it as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suggest you practice on some of your shapes that I provided for you on the training pattern in Lesson 2. The rounded shape such as the circles, ovals and stars will help you get a good feel for the blade and saw in general. I am going to stop here, and next time we will be learning about outside soft corners and hard corners. Remember if you have any questions or comments I will be keeping watch so that I can help you quickly. I am sure that others here will have some thoughts to share too.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by. I hope you are enjoying things so far.


thought that was great video sheila, showed just what it needed to. I must say that the blower must be doing a great job as when i cut, the whole top of the table is covered is sawdust..


----------



## Rick13403

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Outside Curves*
> 
> Now that we have had a chance to practice casting on and off, we are going to practice a bit more on cutting outside curves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting curves is probably one of the easiest things to do on a scroll saw. Most designs consist mainly of curved lines, with occasional straight runs from time to time. Once you get used to cutting curves and turning corners accurately, you are well on your way to being a great scroller.
> 
> One thing that is important to remember is that the blade is stationary and you are going to be moving your pieces through and around it. Unlike other types of tools like a circular saw or a router, where you actually move the tool over your piece, you will be doing the opposite when using your scroll saw by turning, pivoting and guiding your piece through the blade. I know that may seem obvious when you first read this, but it is important to tune your mind into that way of thinking and it will make scrolling much easier for you to accomplish.
> 
> Because of this way of thinking, the more control you have over moving your piece through the blade, the more accurate your cutting will be. This is something that is not always easy at first for some people, but with a little time and patience will become almost second nature. In order to show you some of the little tips I have learned over the years, Let's begin cutting a shape.
> 
> Let's start with the simple 's' shape that I provided in the practice patterns in Lesson #2. This piece, although simple, has both left and right turns for you to practice on.
> 
> Begin by casting on from the right side, aiming for the mark that I indicated as a starting point on the pattern. Remember to use the time you are moving from the edge to the point of beginning the design as a time to make any necessary adjustments to your saw such as speed and to get a feel for they type of wood you are doing. Also remember to slow down a bit before you get to the line, so you give time for the blade to relax and get ready to turn. This will soon come naturally to you and you won't have to even think about it anymore.
> 
> Turn the piece in a counter-clockwise direction and begin to cut out your shape and follow the line. I have had several inquiries regarding whether I cut 'inside the line' or 'outside the line' and although that I know of several scroller that use one of these methods, I prefer to cut directly ON the line and follow it as close as possible.
> 
> While you are cutting, remember to keep your elbows down and your arms relaxed. Have your saw going at a comfortable pace - not too aggressive at first so you can become accustom to moving through the wood. You will have plenty of time to speed up later on if you wish as you are more comfortable with what you are doing. Keep your wrists relaxed, too and use your fingertips to gently guide the wood through the saw. Continue using gentle and even pressure around the slight curve until you are coming up to point 'A' in the diagram.
> 
> As you approach point 'A', you are going to begin to apply slightly more pressure with your left hand to make a pivot point and use your right hand to gently guide the wood around that pivot point, causing your wood to turn to the left. Since this is a wide curve, the action is subtle and does not need to be over done. Use a slight shift in the weight of your hands and the movements will come to you naturally, like turning the wheel of a car. As you approach point 'B', redistribute the weight of your hands so that it is again almost equal by the time you are at point 'B'. This will all occur very quickly, but will also begin to come to you naturally as you practice. (I have indicated when most of the pivoting will occur by using a dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the figure, once again leveling off your pressure as you work around the curved area from point 'B' to point 'C'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you begin to approach point 'C', again begin to place slightly heavier pressure on your left, or pivoting hand and begin turning the piece counter-clockwise with your right hand. This time we are doing a full curve, so you will want to turn in steps, carefully lifting and replacing your right hand further toward the bottom of the piece so that you can guide it through the blade. For the most part, during this turn your left hand will remain in place, holding the piece down as you are turning. (Again, the place where you will be pivoting most is indicated by the dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you pass point 'D', you will again begin to relax both hands and equalize the pressure you are using from both hand to continue to guide your piece through the blade. Continue to cut until you approach point 'E'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you get close to point 'E', this time you will once again begin to put a little more pressure on your left hand, but this time you will begin turning the wood in a clockwise direction, following the line to point 'F' where you once again equalize the pressure between your two hands. (Pivoting most where the dotted lines indicate, between points 'E' and 'F')
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the piece until you approach your entry point. You will continually be adjusting the pressure of both hands and steering the piece through the blade. As you get close to your entry point, slow down and aim for the point where you started your cutting on the line. Allow the saw to do the work and guide the piece so the blade meets up with the entry spot as seamlessly as possible.
> 
> I have a short video which shows me cutting the piece out. I apologize for it being slightly dark, as I was experimenting to see if you would be able to see the lines better without my bright light. Problem was that I also was not able to see as well as usual to stay on the line!  I may try to reshoot tomorrow, but I am not sure if it is necessary or not. Let me know if you get a chance what you think. I think that it gets all the points that I wanted to across so I left it as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suggest you practice on some of your shapes that I provided for you on the training pattern in Lesson 2. The rounded shape such as the circles, ovals and stars will help you get a good feel for the blade and saw in general. I am going to stop here, and next time we will be learning about outside soft corners and hard corners. Remember if you have any questions or comments I will be keeping watch so that I can help you quickly. I am sure that others here will have some thoughts to share too.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by. I hope you are enjoying things so far.


Great job Sheila. We are enjoying these classes. I have trouble with seeing the lines too and have started to use a magnifier visor that really makes the lines pop. Thanks for doing these classes.


----------



## oldmailman

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Outside Curves*
> 
> Now that we have had a chance to practice casting on and off, we are going to practice a bit more on cutting outside curves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting curves is probably one of the easiest things to do on a scroll saw. Most designs consist mainly of curved lines, with occasional straight runs from time to time. Once you get used to cutting curves and turning corners accurately, you are well on your way to being a great scroller.
> 
> One thing that is important to remember is that the blade is stationary and you are going to be moving your pieces through and around it. Unlike other types of tools like a circular saw or a router, where you actually move the tool over your piece, you will be doing the opposite when using your scroll saw by turning, pivoting and guiding your piece through the blade. I know that may seem obvious when you first read this, but it is important to tune your mind into that way of thinking and it will make scrolling much easier for you to accomplish.
> 
> Because of this way of thinking, the more control you have over moving your piece through the blade, the more accurate your cutting will be. This is something that is not always easy at first for some people, but with a little time and patience will become almost second nature. In order to show you some of the little tips I have learned over the years, Let's begin cutting a shape.
> 
> Let's start with the simple 's' shape that I provided in the practice patterns in Lesson #2. This piece, although simple, has both left and right turns for you to practice on.
> 
> Begin by casting on from the right side, aiming for the mark that I indicated as a starting point on the pattern. Remember to use the time you are moving from the edge to the point of beginning the design as a time to make any necessary adjustments to your saw such as speed and to get a feel for they type of wood you are doing. Also remember to slow down a bit before you get to the line, so you give time for the blade to relax and get ready to turn. This will soon come naturally to you and you won't have to even think about it anymore.
> 
> Turn the piece in a counter-clockwise direction and begin to cut out your shape and follow the line. I have had several inquiries regarding whether I cut 'inside the line' or 'outside the line' and although that I know of several scroller that use one of these methods, I prefer to cut directly ON the line and follow it as close as possible.
> 
> While you are cutting, remember to keep your elbows down and your arms relaxed. Have your saw going at a comfortable pace - not too aggressive at first so you can become accustom to moving through the wood. You will have plenty of time to speed up later on if you wish as you are more comfortable with what you are doing. Keep your wrists relaxed, too and use your fingertips to gently guide the wood through the saw. Continue using gentle and even pressure around the slight curve until you are coming up to point 'A' in the diagram.
> 
> As you approach point 'A', you are going to begin to apply slightly more pressure with your left hand to make a pivot point and use your right hand to gently guide the wood around that pivot point, causing your wood to turn to the left. Since this is a wide curve, the action is subtle and does not need to be over done. Use a slight shift in the weight of your hands and the movements will come to you naturally, like turning the wheel of a car. As you approach point 'B', redistribute the weight of your hands so that it is again almost equal by the time you are at point 'B'. This will all occur very quickly, but will also begin to come to you naturally as you practice. (I have indicated when most of the pivoting will occur by using a dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the figure, once again leveling off your pressure as you work around the curved area from point 'B' to point 'C'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you begin to approach point 'C', again begin to place slightly heavier pressure on your left, or pivoting hand and begin turning the piece counter-clockwise with your right hand. This time we are doing a full curve, so you will want to turn in steps, carefully lifting and replacing your right hand further toward the bottom of the piece so that you can guide it through the blade. For the most part, during this turn your left hand will remain in place, holding the piece down as you are turning. (Again, the place where you will be pivoting most is indicated by the dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you pass point 'D', you will again begin to relax both hands and equalize the pressure you are using from both hand to continue to guide your piece through the blade. Continue to cut until you approach point 'E'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you get close to point 'E', this time you will once again begin to put a little more pressure on your left hand, but this time you will begin turning the wood in a clockwise direction, following the line to point 'F' where you once again equalize the pressure between your two hands. (Pivoting most where the dotted lines indicate, between points 'E' and 'F')
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the piece until you approach your entry point. You will continually be adjusting the pressure of both hands and steering the piece through the blade. As you get close to your entry point, slow down and aim for the point where you started your cutting on the line. Allow the saw to do the work and guide the piece so the blade meets up with the entry spot as seamlessly as possible.
> 
> I have a short video which shows me cutting the piece out. I apologize for it being slightly dark, as I was experimenting to see if you would be able to see the lines better without my bright light. Problem was that I also was not able to see as well as usual to stay on the line!  I may try to reshoot tomorrow, but I am not sure if it is necessary or not. Let me know if you get a chance what you think. I think that it gets all the points that I wanted to across so I left it as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suggest you practice on some of your shapes that I provided for you on the training pattern in Lesson 2. The rounded shape such as the circles, ovals and stars will help you get a good feel for the blade and saw in general. I am going to stop here, and next time we will be learning about outside soft corners and hard corners. Remember if you have any questions or comments I will be keeping watch so that I can help you quickly. I am sure that others here will have some thoughts to share too.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by. I hope you are enjoying things so far.


Just joined and have read all of the lessons up to today, looking foward to the next lesson.

Great job and thanks..


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Outside Curves*
> 
> Now that we have had a chance to practice casting on and off, we are going to practice a bit more on cutting outside curves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting curves is probably one of the easiest things to do on a scroll saw. Most designs consist mainly of curved lines, with occasional straight runs from time to time. Once you get used to cutting curves and turning corners accurately, you are well on your way to being a great scroller.
> 
> One thing that is important to remember is that the blade is stationary and you are going to be moving your pieces through and around it. Unlike other types of tools like a circular saw or a router, where you actually move the tool over your piece, you will be doing the opposite when using your scroll saw by turning, pivoting and guiding your piece through the blade. I know that may seem obvious when you first read this, but it is important to tune your mind into that way of thinking and it will make scrolling much easier for you to accomplish.
> 
> Because of this way of thinking, the more control you have over moving your piece through the blade, the more accurate your cutting will be. This is something that is not always easy at first for some people, but with a little time and patience will become almost second nature. In order to show you some of the little tips I have learned over the years, Let's begin cutting a shape.
> 
> Let's start with the simple 's' shape that I provided in the practice patterns in Lesson #2. This piece, although simple, has both left and right turns for you to practice on.
> 
> Begin by casting on from the right side, aiming for the mark that I indicated as a starting point on the pattern. Remember to use the time you are moving from the edge to the point of beginning the design as a time to make any necessary adjustments to your saw such as speed and to get a feel for they type of wood you are doing. Also remember to slow down a bit before you get to the line, so you give time for the blade to relax and get ready to turn. This will soon come naturally to you and you won't have to even think about it anymore.
> 
> Turn the piece in a counter-clockwise direction and begin to cut out your shape and follow the line. I have had several inquiries regarding whether I cut 'inside the line' or 'outside the line' and although that I know of several scroller that use one of these methods, I prefer to cut directly ON the line and follow it as close as possible.
> 
> While you are cutting, remember to keep your elbows down and your arms relaxed. Have your saw going at a comfortable pace - not too aggressive at first so you can become accustom to moving through the wood. You will have plenty of time to speed up later on if you wish as you are more comfortable with what you are doing. Keep your wrists relaxed, too and use your fingertips to gently guide the wood through the saw. Continue using gentle and even pressure around the slight curve until you are coming up to point 'A' in the diagram.
> 
> As you approach point 'A', you are going to begin to apply slightly more pressure with your left hand to make a pivot point and use your right hand to gently guide the wood around that pivot point, causing your wood to turn to the left. Since this is a wide curve, the action is subtle and does not need to be over done. Use a slight shift in the weight of your hands and the movements will come to you naturally, like turning the wheel of a car. As you approach point 'B', redistribute the weight of your hands so that it is again almost equal by the time you are at point 'B'. This will all occur very quickly, but will also begin to come to you naturally as you practice. (I have indicated when most of the pivoting will occur by using a dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the figure, once again leveling off your pressure as you work around the curved area from point 'B' to point 'C'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you begin to approach point 'C', again begin to place slightly heavier pressure on your left, or pivoting hand and begin turning the piece counter-clockwise with your right hand. This time we are doing a full curve, so you will want to turn in steps, carefully lifting and replacing your right hand further toward the bottom of the piece so that you can guide it through the blade. For the most part, during this turn your left hand will remain in place, holding the piece down as you are turning. (Again, the place where you will be pivoting most is indicated by the dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you pass point 'D', you will again begin to relax both hands and equalize the pressure you are using from both hand to continue to guide your piece through the blade. Continue to cut until you approach point 'E'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you get close to point 'E', this time you will once again begin to put a little more pressure on your left hand, but this time you will begin turning the wood in a clockwise direction, following the line to point 'F' where you once again equalize the pressure between your two hands. (Pivoting most where the dotted lines indicate, between points 'E' and 'F')
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the piece until you approach your entry point. You will continually be adjusting the pressure of both hands and steering the piece through the blade. As you get close to your entry point, slow down and aim for the point where you started your cutting on the line. Allow the saw to do the work and guide the piece so the blade meets up with the entry spot as seamlessly as possible.
> 
> I have a short video which shows me cutting the piece out. I apologize for it being slightly dark, as I was experimenting to see if you would be able to see the lines better without my bright light. Problem was that I also was not able to see as well as usual to stay on the line!  I may try to reshoot tomorrow, but I am not sure if it is necessary or not. Let me know if you get a chance what you think. I think that it gets all the points that I wanted to across so I left it as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suggest you practice on some of your shapes that I provided for you on the training pattern in Lesson 2. The rounded shape such as the circles, ovals and stars will help you get a good feel for the blade and saw in general. I am going to stop here, and next time we will be learning about outside soft corners and hard corners. Remember if you have any questions or comments I will be keeping watch so that I can help you quickly. I am sure that others here will have some thoughts to share too.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by. I hope you are enjoying things so far.


Hi, Rick! I am glad you stopped in. I have a magnifier too, but for the videos I can't use it - it would get in the way of the camera. That's why I had the light off too.  But that is OK. I think I got 'close enough" LOL.

I am glad you liked the video Steve. Hopefully they will get a bit easier to make as I go along. I just have to pretend that I am talking to all you guys and not get myself worked up about the camera. 

You are very welcome oldmailman! I am glad you can make it. It will be in lots of short lessons like this in order to give everyone a chance to try things out during these busy summer days and also I didn't want to overload anyone with too much information at once. Thanks for joining us! 

Sheila


----------



## Blondewood

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Outside Curves*
> 
> Now that we have had a chance to practice casting on and off, we are going to practice a bit more on cutting outside curves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting curves is probably one of the easiest things to do on a scroll saw. Most designs consist mainly of curved lines, with occasional straight runs from time to time. Once you get used to cutting curves and turning corners accurately, you are well on your way to being a great scroller.
> 
> One thing that is important to remember is that the blade is stationary and you are going to be moving your pieces through and around it. Unlike other types of tools like a circular saw or a router, where you actually move the tool over your piece, you will be doing the opposite when using your scroll saw by turning, pivoting and guiding your piece through the blade. I know that may seem obvious when you first read this, but it is important to tune your mind into that way of thinking and it will make scrolling much easier for you to accomplish.
> 
> Because of this way of thinking, the more control you have over moving your piece through the blade, the more accurate your cutting will be. This is something that is not always easy at first for some people, but with a little time and patience will become almost second nature. In order to show you some of the little tips I have learned over the years, Let's begin cutting a shape.
> 
> Let's start with the simple 's' shape that I provided in the practice patterns in Lesson #2. This piece, although simple, has both left and right turns for you to practice on.
> 
> Begin by casting on from the right side, aiming for the mark that I indicated as a starting point on the pattern. Remember to use the time you are moving from the edge to the point of beginning the design as a time to make any necessary adjustments to your saw such as speed and to get a feel for they type of wood you are doing. Also remember to slow down a bit before you get to the line, so you give time for the blade to relax and get ready to turn. This will soon come naturally to you and you won't have to even think about it anymore.
> 
> Turn the piece in a counter-clockwise direction and begin to cut out your shape and follow the line. I have had several inquiries regarding whether I cut 'inside the line' or 'outside the line' and although that I know of several scroller that use one of these methods, I prefer to cut directly ON the line and follow it as close as possible.
> 
> While you are cutting, remember to keep your elbows down and your arms relaxed. Have your saw going at a comfortable pace - not too aggressive at first so you can become accustom to moving through the wood. You will have plenty of time to speed up later on if you wish as you are more comfortable with what you are doing. Keep your wrists relaxed, too and use your fingertips to gently guide the wood through the saw. Continue using gentle and even pressure around the slight curve until you are coming up to point 'A' in the diagram.
> 
> As you approach point 'A', you are going to begin to apply slightly more pressure with your left hand to make a pivot point and use your right hand to gently guide the wood around that pivot point, causing your wood to turn to the left. Since this is a wide curve, the action is subtle and does not need to be over done. Use a slight shift in the weight of your hands and the movements will come to you naturally, like turning the wheel of a car. As you approach point 'B', redistribute the weight of your hands so that it is again almost equal by the time you are at point 'B'. This will all occur very quickly, but will also begin to come to you naturally as you practice. (I have indicated when most of the pivoting will occur by using a dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the figure, once again leveling off your pressure as you work around the curved area from point 'B' to point 'C'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you begin to approach point 'C', again begin to place slightly heavier pressure on your left, or pivoting hand and begin turning the piece counter-clockwise with your right hand. This time we are doing a full curve, so you will want to turn in steps, carefully lifting and replacing your right hand further toward the bottom of the piece so that you can guide it through the blade. For the most part, during this turn your left hand will remain in place, holding the piece down as you are turning. (Again, the place where you will be pivoting most is indicated by the dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you pass point 'D', you will again begin to relax both hands and equalize the pressure you are using from both hand to continue to guide your piece through the blade. Continue to cut until you approach point 'E'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you get close to point 'E', this time you will once again begin to put a little more pressure on your left hand, but this time you will begin turning the wood in a clockwise direction, following the line to point 'F' where you once again equalize the pressure between your two hands. (Pivoting most where the dotted lines indicate, between points 'E' and 'F')
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the piece until you approach your entry point. You will continually be adjusting the pressure of both hands and steering the piece through the blade. As you get close to your entry point, slow down and aim for the point where you started your cutting on the line. Allow the saw to do the work and guide the piece so the blade meets up with the entry spot as seamlessly as possible.
> 
> I have a short video which shows me cutting the piece out. I apologize for it being slightly dark, as I was experimenting to see if you would be able to see the lines better without my bright light. Problem was that I also was not able to see as well as usual to stay on the line!  I may try to reshoot tomorrow, but I am not sure if it is necessary or not. Let me know if you get a chance what you think. I think that it gets all the points that I wanted to across so I left it as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suggest you practice on some of your shapes that I provided for you on the training pattern in Lesson 2. The rounded shape such as the circles, ovals and stars will help you get a good feel for the blade and saw in general. I am going to stop here, and next time we will be learning about outside soft corners and hard corners. Remember if you have any questions or comments I will be keeping watch so that I can help you quickly. I am sure that others here will have some thoughts to share too.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by. I hope you are enjoying things so far.


Thank you for another extremely helpful video. Comparing the light of the two videos, I like this second one better. Much easier to see your blade and pattern line. Practice really does help. In the past I scrolled just now and then. The past couple of weeks I've made 14 or so items for an upcoming craft bizzare. I'm still not a pro or anything, but with your videos and all this practice I have improved. One thing I had trouble with today and I'm sure you will cover in a future class is cutting small areas of an inch or so. Inside cuts that will fall out and have tiny angles and points. For instance the bottom of a pant leg and the shoe. Lots of little turns and angles and curves. I slow the blade way down and have it good and tight and sometimes I still overshoot the line and what I wanted to be a straight piece 1/4" or less becomes a bit curved. No way to straighten that out. Any tips on getting the shape right with tiny areas would be appreciated.
Vicki


----------



## huntter2022

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Outside Curves*
> 
> Now that we have had a chance to practice casting on and off, we are going to practice a bit more on cutting outside curves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting curves is probably one of the easiest things to do on a scroll saw. Most designs consist mainly of curved lines, with occasional straight runs from time to time. Once you get used to cutting curves and turning corners accurately, you are well on your way to being a great scroller.
> 
> One thing that is important to remember is that the blade is stationary and you are going to be moving your pieces through and around it. Unlike other types of tools like a circular saw or a router, where you actually move the tool over your piece, you will be doing the opposite when using your scroll saw by turning, pivoting and guiding your piece through the blade. I know that may seem obvious when you first read this, but it is important to tune your mind into that way of thinking and it will make scrolling much easier for you to accomplish.
> 
> Because of this way of thinking, the more control you have over moving your piece through the blade, the more accurate your cutting will be. This is something that is not always easy at first for some people, but with a little time and patience will become almost second nature. In order to show you some of the little tips I have learned over the years, Let's begin cutting a shape.
> 
> Let's start with the simple 's' shape that I provided in the practice patterns in Lesson #2. This piece, although simple, has both left and right turns for you to practice on.
> 
> Begin by casting on from the right side, aiming for the mark that I indicated as a starting point on the pattern. Remember to use the time you are moving from the edge to the point of beginning the design as a time to make any necessary adjustments to your saw such as speed and to get a feel for they type of wood you are doing. Also remember to slow down a bit before you get to the line, so you give time for the blade to relax and get ready to turn. This will soon come naturally to you and you won't have to even think about it anymore.
> 
> Turn the piece in a counter-clockwise direction and begin to cut out your shape and follow the line. I have had several inquiries regarding whether I cut 'inside the line' or 'outside the line' and although that I know of several scroller that use one of these methods, I prefer to cut directly ON the line and follow it as close as possible.
> 
> While you are cutting, remember to keep your elbows down and your arms relaxed. Have your saw going at a comfortable pace - not too aggressive at first so you can become accustom to moving through the wood. You will have plenty of time to speed up later on if you wish as you are more comfortable with what you are doing. Keep your wrists relaxed, too and use your fingertips to gently guide the wood through the saw. Continue using gentle and even pressure around the slight curve until you are coming up to point 'A' in the diagram.
> 
> As you approach point 'A', you are going to begin to apply slightly more pressure with your left hand to make a pivot point and use your right hand to gently guide the wood around that pivot point, causing your wood to turn to the left. Since this is a wide curve, the action is subtle and does not need to be over done. Use a slight shift in the weight of your hands and the movements will come to you naturally, like turning the wheel of a car. As you approach point 'B', redistribute the weight of your hands so that it is again almost equal by the time you are at point 'B'. This will all occur very quickly, but will also begin to come to you naturally as you practice. (I have indicated when most of the pivoting will occur by using a dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the figure, once again leveling off your pressure as you work around the curved area from point 'B' to point 'C'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you begin to approach point 'C', again begin to place slightly heavier pressure on your left, or pivoting hand and begin turning the piece counter-clockwise with your right hand. This time we are doing a full curve, so you will want to turn in steps, carefully lifting and replacing your right hand further toward the bottom of the piece so that you can guide it through the blade. For the most part, during this turn your left hand will remain in place, holding the piece down as you are turning. (Again, the place where you will be pivoting most is indicated by the dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you pass point 'D', you will again begin to relax both hands and equalize the pressure you are using from both hand to continue to guide your piece through the blade. Continue to cut until you approach point 'E'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you get close to point 'E', this time you will once again begin to put a little more pressure on your left hand, but this time you will begin turning the wood in a clockwise direction, following the line to point 'F' where you once again equalize the pressure between your two hands. (Pivoting most where the dotted lines indicate, between points 'E' and 'F')
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the piece until you approach your entry point. You will continually be adjusting the pressure of both hands and steering the piece through the blade. As you get close to your entry point, slow down and aim for the point where you started your cutting on the line. Allow the saw to do the work and guide the piece so the blade meets up with the entry spot as seamlessly as possible.
> 
> I have a short video which shows me cutting the piece out. I apologize for it being slightly dark, as I was experimenting to see if you would be able to see the lines better without my bright light. Problem was that I also was not able to see as well as usual to stay on the line!  I may try to reshoot tomorrow, but I am not sure if it is necessary or not. Let me know if you get a chance what you think. I think that it gets all the points that I wanted to across so I left it as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suggest you practice on some of your shapes that I provided for you on the training pattern in Lesson 2. The rounded shape such as the circles, ovals and stars will help you get a good feel for the blade and saw in general. I am going to stop here, and next time we will be learning about outside soft corners and hard corners. Remember if you have any questions or comments I will be keeping watch so that I can help you quickly. I am sure that others here will have some thoughts to share too.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by. I hope you are enjoying things so far.


Hi Vicki !
 You might want to change your blade size .

I don't want to get ahead of Sheila in the classes . so I will leave it . But if it is something you cannot wait on as you need it done message me and I will be more than happy to help .


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Outside Curves*
> 
> Now that we have had a chance to practice casting on and off, we are going to practice a bit more on cutting outside curves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting curves is probably one of the easiest things to do on a scroll saw. Most designs consist mainly of curved lines, with occasional straight runs from time to time. Once you get used to cutting curves and turning corners accurately, you are well on your way to being a great scroller.
> 
> One thing that is important to remember is that the blade is stationary and you are going to be moving your pieces through and around it. Unlike other types of tools like a circular saw or a router, where you actually move the tool over your piece, you will be doing the opposite when using your scroll saw by turning, pivoting and guiding your piece through the blade. I know that may seem obvious when you first read this, but it is important to tune your mind into that way of thinking and it will make scrolling much easier for you to accomplish.
> 
> Because of this way of thinking, the more control you have over moving your piece through the blade, the more accurate your cutting will be. This is something that is not always easy at first for some people, but with a little time and patience will become almost second nature. In order to show you some of the little tips I have learned over the years, Let's begin cutting a shape.
> 
> Let's start with the simple 's' shape that I provided in the practice patterns in Lesson #2. This piece, although simple, has both left and right turns for you to practice on.
> 
> Begin by casting on from the right side, aiming for the mark that I indicated as a starting point on the pattern. Remember to use the time you are moving from the edge to the point of beginning the design as a time to make any necessary adjustments to your saw such as speed and to get a feel for they type of wood you are doing. Also remember to slow down a bit before you get to the line, so you give time for the blade to relax and get ready to turn. This will soon come naturally to you and you won't have to even think about it anymore.
> 
> Turn the piece in a counter-clockwise direction and begin to cut out your shape and follow the line. I have had several inquiries regarding whether I cut 'inside the line' or 'outside the line' and although that I know of several scroller that use one of these methods, I prefer to cut directly ON the line and follow it as close as possible.
> 
> While you are cutting, remember to keep your elbows down and your arms relaxed. Have your saw going at a comfortable pace - not too aggressive at first so you can become accustom to moving through the wood. You will have plenty of time to speed up later on if you wish as you are more comfortable with what you are doing. Keep your wrists relaxed, too and use your fingertips to gently guide the wood through the saw. Continue using gentle and even pressure around the slight curve until you are coming up to point 'A' in the diagram.
> 
> As you approach point 'A', you are going to begin to apply slightly more pressure with your left hand to make a pivot point and use your right hand to gently guide the wood around that pivot point, causing your wood to turn to the left. Since this is a wide curve, the action is subtle and does not need to be over done. Use a slight shift in the weight of your hands and the movements will come to you naturally, like turning the wheel of a car. As you approach point 'B', redistribute the weight of your hands so that it is again almost equal by the time you are at point 'B'. This will all occur very quickly, but will also begin to come to you naturally as you practice. (I have indicated when most of the pivoting will occur by using a dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the figure, once again leveling off your pressure as you work around the curved area from point 'B' to point 'C'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you begin to approach point 'C', again begin to place slightly heavier pressure on your left, or pivoting hand and begin turning the piece counter-clockwise with your right hand. This time we are doing a full curve, so you will want to turn in steps, carefully lifting and replacing your right hand further toward the bottom of the piece so that you can guide it through the blade. For the most part, during this turn your left hand will remain in place, holding the piece down as you are turning. (Again, the place where you will be pivoting most is indicated by the dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you pass point 'D', you will again begin to relax both hands and equalize the pressure you are using from both hand to continue to guide your piece through the blade. Continue to cut until you approach point 'E'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you get close to point 'E', this time you will once again begin to put a little more pressure on your left hand, but this time you will begin turning the wood in a clockwise direction, following the line to point 'F' where you once again equalize the pressure between your two hands. (Pivoting most where the dotted lines indicate, between points 'E' and 'F')
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the piece until you approach your entry point. You will continually be adjusting the pressure of both hands and steering the piece through the blade. As you get close to your entry point, slow down and aim for the point where you started your cutting on the line. Allow the saw to do the work and guide the piece so the blade meets up with the entry spot as seamlessly as possible.
> 
> I have a short video which shows me cutting the piece out. I apologize for it being slightly dark, as I was experimenting to see if you would be able to see the lines better without my bright light. Problem was that I also was not able to see as well as usual to stay on the line!  I may try to reshoot tomorrow, but I am not sure if it is necessary or not. Let me know if you get a chance what you think. I think that it gets all the points that I wanted to across so I left it as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suggest you practice on some of your shapes that I provided for you on the training pattern in Lesson 2. The rounded shape such as the circles, ovals and stars will help you get a good feel for the blade and saw in general. I am going to stop here, and next time we will be learning about outside soft corners and hard corners. Remember if you have any questions or comments I will be keeping watch so that I can help you quickly. I am sure that others here will have some thoughts to share too.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by. I hope you are enjoying things so far.


Thanks, David! I think that is a good option.

The next class will start to look into corners in depth. I will be starting with outside corners, but if space allows, I will also move to inside corners. It depends on how involved things get, as I don't want the lessons to get too long here or give too much information at once. I usually try to post the next lesson by the weekend, so watch for it then. Hopefully it will help you get through things a bit better. In the mean time, try the smaller blade and see if that helps. Hopefully we will cover what you need to continue improving. If I don't, please don't hesitate to ask me! 

Sheila


----------



## Davisjr

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Outside Curves*
> 
> Now that we have had a chance to practice casting on and off, we are going to practice a bit more on cutting outside curves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting curves is probably one of the easiest things to do on a scroll saw. Most designs consist mainly of curved lines, with occasional straight runs from time to time. Once you get used to cutting curves and turning corners accurately, you are well on your way to being a great scroller.
> 
> One thing that is important to remember is that the blade is stationary and you are going to be moving your pieces through and around it. Unlike other types of tools like a circular saw or a router, where you actually move the tool over your piece, you will be doing the opposite when using your scroll saw by turning, pivoting and guiding your piece through the blade. I know that may seem obvious when you first read this, but it is important to tune your mind into that way of thinking and it will make scrolling much easier for you to accomplish.
> 
> Because of this way of thinking, the more control you have over moving your piece through the blade, the more accurate your cutting will be. This is something that is not always easy at first for some people, but with a little time and patience will become almost second nature. In order to show you some of the little tips I have learned over the years, Let's begin cutting a shape.
> 
> Let's start with the simple 's' shape that I provided in the practice patterns in Lesson #2. This piece, although simple, has both left and right turns for you to practice on.
> 
> Begin by casting on from the right side, aiming for the mark that I indicated as a starting point on the pattern. Remember to use the time you are moving from the edge to the point of beginning the design as a time to make any necessary adjustments to your saw such as speed and to get a feel for they type of wood you are doing. Also remember to slow down a bit before you get to the line, so you give time for the blade to relax and get ready to turn. This will soon come naturally to you and you won't have to even think about it anymore.
> 
> Turn the piece in a counter-clockwise direction and begin to cut out your shape and follow the line. I have had several inquiries regarding whether I cut 'inside the line' or 'outside the line' and although that I know of several scroller that use one of these methods, I prefer to cut directly ON the line and follow it as close as possible.
> 
> While you are cutting, remember to keep your elbows down and your arms relaxed. Have your saw going at a comfortable pace - not too aggressive at first so you can become accustom to moving through the wood. You will have plenty of time to speed up later on if you wish as you are more comfortable with what you are doing. Keep your wrists relaxed, too and use your fingertips to gently guide the wood through the saw. Continue using gentle and even pressure around the slight curve until you are coming up to point 'A' in the diagram.
> 
> As you approach point 'A', you are going to begin to apply slightly more pressure with your left hand to make a pivot point and use your right hand to gently guide the wood around that pivot point, causing your wood to turn to the left. Since this is a wide curve, the action is subtle and does not need to be over done. Use a slight shift in the weight of your hands and the movements will come to you naturally, like turning the wheel of a car. As you approach point 'B', redistribute the weight of your hands so that it is again almost equal by the time you are at point 'B'. This will all occur very quickly, but will also begin to come to you naturally as you practice. (I have indicated when most of the pivoting will occur by using a dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the figure, once again leveling off your pressure as you work around the curved area from point 'B' to point 'C'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you begin to approach point 'C', again begin to place slightly heavier pressure on your left, or pivoting hand and begin turning the piece counter-clockwise with your right hand. This time we are doing a full curve, so you will want to turn in steps, carefully lifting and replacing your right hand further toward the bottom of the piece so that you can guide it through the blade. For the most part, during this turn your left hand will remain in place, holding the piece down as you are turning. (Again, the place where you will be pivoting most is indicated by the dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you pass point 'D', you will again begin to relax both hands and equalize the pressure you are using from both hand to continue to guide your piece through the blade. Continue to cut until you approach point 'E'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you get close to point 'E', this time you will once again begin to put a little more pressure on your left hand, but this time you will begin turning the wood in a clockwise direction, following the line to point 'F' where you once again equalize the pressure between your two hands. (Pivoting most where the dotted lines indicate, between points 'E' and 'F')
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the piece until you approach your entry point. You will continually be adjusting the pressure of both hands and steering the piece through the blade. As you get close to your entry point, slow down and aim for the point where you started your cutting on the line. Allow the saw to do the work and guide the piece so the blade meets up with the entry spot as seamlessly as possible.
> 
> I have a short video which shows me cutting the piece out. I apologize for it being slightly dark, as I was experimenting to see if you would be able to see the lines better without my bright light. Problem was that I also was not able to see as well as usual to stay on the line!  I may try to reshoot tomorrow, but I am not sure if it is necessary or not. Let me know if you get a chance what you think. I think that it gets all the points that I wanted to across so I left it as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suggest you practice on some of your shapes that I provided for you on the training pattern in Lesson 2. The rounded shape such as the circles, ovals and stars will help you get a good feel for the blade and saw in general. I am going to stop here, and next time we will be learning about outside soft corners and hard corners. Remember if you have any questions or comments I will be keeping watch so that I can help you quickly. I am sure that others here will have some thoughts to share too.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by. I hope you are enjoying things so far.


To Hunter2022 - I tried cutting a my very first piece a few weeks ago before it got really hot out. It was a Christmas ornament. Something I copied from a book with my All-in-one printer.

On another scroll sawing website I mentioned that I was having seeing the lines as I was cutting. One thing that was suggested was try using with red lines. Now I do have a few patterns on my computer and I am also trying to scan in some patterns from books for future use. Most, as we know, patterns are in black ink. How would one print them out in black? Even the ones I scanned in or off the net?

Also I went to my local Harbor Freight and picked up a magnifying lamp. I am hoping that will help with my issue also.


----------



## CherieLee

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Outside Curves*
> 
> Now that we have had a chance to practice casting on and off, we are going to practice a bit more on cutting outside curves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting curves is probably one of the easiest things to do on a scroll saw. Most designs consist mainly of curved lines, with occasional straight runs from time to time. Once you get used to cutting curves and turning corners accurately, you are well on your way to being a great scroller.
> 
> One thing that is important to remember is that the blade is stationary and you are going to be moving your pieces through and around it. Unlike other types of tools like a circular saw or a router, where you actually move the tool over your piece, you will be doing the opposite when using your scroll saw by turning, pivoting and guiding your piece through the blade. I know that may seem obvious when you first read this, but it is important to tune your mind into that way of thinking and it will make scrolling much easier for you to accomplish.
> 
> Because of this way of thinking, the more control you have over moving your piece through the blade, the more accurate your cutting will be. This is something that is not always easy at first for some people, but with a little time and patience will become almost second nature. In order to show you some of the little tips I have learned over the years, Let's begin cutting a shape.
> 
> Let's start with the simple 's' shape that I provided in the practice patterns in Lesson #2. This piece, although simple, has both left and right turns for you to practice on.
> 
> Begin by casting on from the right side, aiming for the mark that I indicated as a starting point on the pattern. Remember to use the time you are moving from the edge to the point of beginning the design as a time to make any necessary adjustments to your saw such as speed and to get a feel for they type of wood you are doing. Also remember to slow down a bit before you get to the line, so you give time for the blade to relax and get ready to turn. This will soon come naturally to you and you won't have to even think about it anymore.
> 
> Turn the piece in a counter-clockwise direction and begin to cut out your shape and follow the line. I have had several inquiries regarding whether I cut 'inside the line' or 'outside the line' and although that I know of several scroller that use one of these methods, I prefer to cut directly ON the line and follow it as close as possible.
> 
> While you are cutting, remember to keep your elbows down and your arms relaxed. Have your saw going at a comfortable pace - not too aggressive at first so you can become accustom to moving through the wood. You will have plenty of time to speed up later on if you wish as you are more comfortable with what you are doing. Keep your wrists relaxed, too and use your fingertips to gently guide the wood through the saw. Continue using gentle and even pressure around the slight curve until you are coming up to point 'A' in the diagram.
> 
> As you approach point 'A', you are going to begin to apply slightly more pressure with your left hand to make a pivot point and use your right hand to gently guide the wood around that pivot point, causing your wood to turn to the left. Since this is a wide curve, the action is subtle and does not need to be over done. Use a slight shift in the weight of your hands and the movements will come to you naturally, like turning the wheel of a car. As you approach point 'B', redistribute the weight of your hands so that it is again almost equal by the time you are at point 'B'. This will all occur very quickly, but will also begin to come to you naturally as you practice. (I have indicated when most of the pivoting will occur by using a dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the figure, once again leveling off your pressure as you work around the curved area from point 'B' to point 'C'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you begin to approach point 'C', again begin to place slightly heavier pressure on your left, or pivoting hand and begin turning the piece counter-clockwise with your right hand. This time we are doing a full curve, so you will want to turn in steps, carefully lifting and replacing your right hand further toward the bottom of the piece so that you can guide it through the blade. For the most part, during this turn your left hand will remain in place, holding the piece down as you are turning. (Again, the place where you will be pivoting most is indicated by the dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you pass point 'D', you will again begin to relax both hands and equalize the pressure you are using from both hand to continue to guide your piece through the blade. Continue to cut until you approach point 'E'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you get close to point 'E', this time you will once again begin to put a little more pressure on your left hand, but this time you will begin turning the wood in a clockwise direction, following the line to point 'F' where you once again equalize the pressure between your two hands. (Pivoting most where the dotted lines indicate, between points 'E' and 'F')
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the piece until you approach your entry point. You will continually be adjusting the pressure of both hands and steering the piece through the blade. As you get close to your entry point, slow down and aim for the point where you started your cutting on the line. Allow the saw to do the work and guide the piece so the blade meets up with the entry spot as seamlessly as possible.
> 
> I have a short video which shows me cutting the piece out. I apologize for it being slightly dark, as I was experimenting to see if you would be able to see the lines better without my bright light. Problem was that I also was not able to see as well as usual to stay on the line!  I may try to reshoot tomorrow, but I am not sure if it is necessary or not. Let me know if you get a chance what you think. I think that it gets all the points that I wanted to across so I left it as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suggest you practice on some of your shapes that I provided for you on the training pattern in Lesson 2. The rounded shape such as the circles, ovals and stars will help you get a good feel for the blade and saw in general. I am going to stop here, and next time we will be learning about outside soft corners and hard corners. Remember if you have any questions or comments I will be keeping watch so that I can help you quickly. I am sure that others here will have some thoughts to share too.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by. I hope you are enjoying things so far.


Another lesson learned well. I have found with much practice, you get faster. But remember, just when you think you know it and are too confident, that is when you make a mistake. Probably one you shouldn't have done. LOL. Been there, done that many times.
Great lessons Shelia!!


----------



## redbaronstoys

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Outside Curves*
> 
> Now that we have had a chance to practice casting on and off, we are going to practice a bit more on cutting outside curves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting curves is probably one of the easiest things to do on a scroll saw. Most designs consist mainly of curved lines, with occasional straight runs from time to time. Once you get used to cutting curves and turning corners accurately, you are well on your way to being a great scroller.
> 
> One thing that is important to remember is that the blade is stationary and you are going to be moving your pieces through and around it. Unlike other types of tools like a circular saw or a router, where you actually move the tool over your piece, you will be doing the opposite when using your scroll saw by turning, pivoting and guiding your piece through the blade. I know that may seem obvious when you first read this, but it is important to tune your mind into that way of thinking and it will make scrolling much easier for you to accomplish.
> 
> Because of this way of thinking, the more control you have over moving your piece through the blade, the more accurate your cutting will be. This is something that is not always easy at first for some people, but with a little time and patience will become almost second nature. In order to show you some of the little tips I have learned over the years, Let's begin cutting a shape.
> 
> Let's start with the simple 's' shape that I provided in the practice patterns in Lesson #2. This piece, although simple, has both left and right turns for you to practice on.
> 
> Begin by casting on from the right side, aiming for the mark that I indicated as a starting point on the pattern. Remember to use the time you are moving from the edge to the point of beginning the design as a time to make any necessary adjustments to your saw such as speed and to get a feel for they type of wood you are doing. Also remember to slow down a bit before you get to the line, so you give time for the blade to relax and get ready to turn. This will soon come naturally to you and you won't have to even think about it anymore.
> 
> Turn the piece in a counter-clockwise direction and begin to cut out your shape and follow the line. I have had several inquiries regarding whether I cut 'inside the line' or 'outside the line' and although that I know of several scroller that use one of these methods, I prefer to cut directly ON the line and follow it as close as possible.
> 
> While you are cutting, remember to keep your elbows down and your arms relaxed. Have your saw going at a comfortable pace - not too aggressive at first so you can become accustom to moving through the wood. You will have plenty of time to speed up later on if you wish as you are more comfortable with what you are doing. Keep your wrists relaxed, too and use your fingertips to gently guide the wood through the saw. Continue using gentle and even pressure around the slight curve until you are coming up to point 'A' in the diagram.
> 
> As you approach point 'A', you are going to begin to apply slightly more pressure with your left hand to make a pivot point and use your right hand to gently guide the wood around that pivot point, causing your wood to turn to the left. Since this is a wide curve, the action is subtle and does not need to be over done. Use a slight shift in the weight of your hands and the movements will come to you naturally, like turning the wheel of a car. As you approach point 'B', redistribute the weight of your hands so that it is again almost equal by the time you are at point 'B'. This will all occur very quickly, but will also begin to come to you naturally as you practice. (I have indicated when most of the pivoting will occur by using a dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the figure, once again leveling off your pressure as you work around the curved area from point 'B' to point 'C'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you begin to approach point 'C', again begin to place slightly heavier pressure on your left, or pivoting hand and begin turning the piece counter-clockwise with your right hand. This time we are doing a full curve, so you will want to turn in steps, carefully lifting and replacing your right hand further toward the bottom of the piece so that you can guide it through the blade. For the most part, during this turn your left hand will remain in place, holding the piece down as you are turning. (Again, the place where you will be pivoting most is indicated by the dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you pass point 'D', you will again begin to relax both hands and equalize the pressure you are using from both hand to continue to guide your piece through the blade. Continue to cut until you approach point 'E'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you get close to point 'E', this time you will once again begin to put a little more pressure on your left hand, but this time you will begin turning the wood in a clockwise direction, following the line to point 'F' where you once again equalize the pressure between your two hands. (Pivoting most where the dotted lines indicate, between points 'E' and 'F')
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the piece until you approach your entry point. You will continually be adjusting the pressure of both hands and steering the piece through the blade. As you get close to your entry point, slow down and aim for the point where you started your cutting on the line. Allow the saw to do the work and guide the piece so the blade meets up with the entry spot as seamlessly as possible.
> 
> I have a short video which shows me cutting the piece out. I apologize for it being slightly dark, as I was experimenting to see if you would be able to see the lines better without my bright light. Problem was that I also was not able to see as well as usual to stay on the line!  I may try to reshoot tomorrow, but I am not sure if it is necessary or not. Let me know if you get a chance what you think. I think that it gets all the points that I wanted to across so I left it as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suggest you practice on some of your shapes that I provided for you on the training pattern in Lesson 2. The rounded shape such as the circles, ovals and stars will help you get a good feel for the blade and saw in general. I am going to stop here, and next time we will be learning about outside soft corners and hard corners. Remember if you have any questions or comments I will be keeping watch so that I can help you quickly. I am sure that others here will have some thoughts to share too.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by. I hope you are enjoying things so far.


Great instruction and video. You make it seem so easy 

I am a new scroller and so far have been having lots of fun. I get frustrated sometimes when something doesn't turn out right or the saw has a mind of its own. I step away for a bit and then return. I keep reminding myself I have only had my saw for about a month. Need to practice, practice, practice.

Thanks for the wonderful videos. I look forward to the next.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Outside Curves*
> 
> Now that we have had a chance to practice casting on and off, we are going to practice a bit more on cutting outside curves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting curves is probably one of the easiest things to do on a scroll saw. Most designs consist mainly of curved lines, with occasional straight runs from time to time. Once you get used to cutting curves and turning corners accurately, you are well on your way to being a great scroller.
> 
> One thing that is important to remember is that the blade is stationary and you are going to be moving your pieces through and around it. Unlike other types of tools like a circular saw or a router, where you actually move the tool over your piece, you will be doing the opposite when using your scroll saw by turning, pivoting and guiding your piece through the blade. I know that may seem obvious when you first read this, but it is important to tune your mind into that way of thinking and it will make scrolling much easier for you to accomplish.
> 
> Because of this way of thinking, the more control you have over moving your piece through the blade, the more accurate your cutting will be. This is something that is not always easy at first for some people, but with a little time and patience will become almost second nature. In order to show you some of the little tips I have learned over the years, Let's begin cutting a shape.
> 
> Let's start with the simple 's' shape that I provided in the practice patterns in Lesson #2. This piece, although simple, has both left and right turns for you to practice on.
> 
> Begin by casting on from the right side, aiming for the mark that I indicated as a starting point on the pattern. Remember to use the time you are moving from the edge to the point of beginning the design as a time to make any necessary adjustments to your saw such as speed and to get a feel for they type of wood you are doing. Also remember to slow down a bit before you get to the line, so you give time for the blade to relax and get ready to turn. This will soon come naturally to you and you won't have to even think about it anymore.
> 
> Turn the piece in a counter-clockwise direction and begin to cut out your shape and follow the line. I have had several inquiries regarding whether I cut 'inside the line' or 'outside the line' and although that I know of several scroller that use one of these methods, I prefer to cut directly ON the line and follow it as close as possible.
> 
> While you are cutting, remember to keep your elbows down and your arms relaxed. Have your saw going at a comfortable pace - not too aggressive at first so you can become accustom to moving through the wood. You will have plenty of time to speed up later on if you wish as you are more comfortable with what you are doing. Keep your wrists relaxed, too and use your fingertips to gently guide the wood through the saw. Continue using gentle and even pressure around the slight curve until you are coming up to point 'A' in the diagram.
> 
> As you approach point 'A', you are going to begin to apply slightly more pressure with your left hand to make a pivot point and use your right hand to gently guide the wood around that pivot point, causing your wood to turn to the left. Since this is a wide curve, the action is subtle and does not need to be over done. Use a slight shift in the weight of your hands and the movements will come to you naturally, like turning the wheel of a car. As you approach point 'B', redistribute the weight of your hands so that it is again almost equal by the time you are at point 'B'. This will all occur very quickly, but will also begin to come to you naturally as you practice. (I have indicated when most of the pivoting will occur by using a dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the figure, once again leveling off your pressure as you work around the curved area from point 'B' to point 'C'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you begin to approach point 'C', again begin to place slightly heavier pressure on your left, or pivoting hand and begin turning the piece counter-clockwise with your right hand. This time we are doing a full curve, so you will want to turn in steps, carefully lifting and replacing your right hand further toward the bottom of the piece so that you can guide it through the blade. For the most part, during this turn your left hand will remain in place, holding the piece down as you are turning. (Again, the place where you will be pivoting most is indicated by the dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you pass point 'D', you will again begin to relax both hands and equalize the pressure you are using from both hand to continue to guide your piece through the blade. Continue to cut until you approach point 'E'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you get close to point 'E', this time you will once again begin to put a little more pressure on your left hand, but this time you will begin turning the wood in a clockwise direction, following the line to point 'F' where you once again equalize the pressure between your two hands. (Pivoting most where the dotted lines indicate, between points 'E' and 'F')
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the piece until you approach your entry point. You will continually be adjusting the pressure of both hands and steering the piece through the blade. As you get close to your entry point, slow down and aim for the point where you started your cutting on the line. Allow the saw to do the work and guide the piece so the blade meets up with the entry spot as seamlessly as possible.
> 
> I have a short video which shows me cutting the piece out. I apologize for it being slightly dark, as I was experimenting to see if you would be able to see the lines better without my bright light. Problem was that I also was not able to see as well as usual to stay on the line!  I may try to reshoot tomorrow, but I am not sure if it is necessary or not. Let me know if you get a chance what you think. I think that it gets all the points that I wanted to across so I left it as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suggest you practice on some of your shapes that I provided for you on the training pattern in Lesson 2. The rounded shape such as the circles, ovals and stars will help you get a good feel for the blade and saw in general. I am going to stop here, and next time we will be learning about outside soft corners and hard corners. Remember if you have any questions or comments I will be keeping watch so that I can help you quickly. I am sure that others here will have some thoughts to share too.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by. I hope you are enjoying things so far.


It is a matter of practice and isn't something that you learn overnight. You soon get a good feel for things though and before long it comes second nature and is very relaxing. Just remember that and keep practicing. If you have any issues, be sure to ask! 

Sheila


----------



## jerrells

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Outside Curves*
> 
> Now that we have had a chance to practice casting on and off, we are going to practice a bit more on cutting outside curves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting curves is probably one of the easiest things to do on a scroll saw. Most designs consist mainly of curved lines, with occasional straight runs from time to time. Once you get used to cutting curves and turning corners accurately, you are well on your way to being a great scroller.
> 
> One thing that is important to remember is that the blade is stationary and you are going to be moving your pieces through and around it. Unlike other types of tools like a circular saw or a router, where you actually move the tool over your piece, you will be doing the opposite when using your scroll saw by turning, pivoting and guiding your piece through the blade. I know that may seem obvious when you first read this, but it is important to tune your mind into that way of thinking and it will make scrolling much easier for you to accomplish.
> 
> Because of this way of thinking, the more control you have over moving your piece through the blade, the more accurate your cutting will be. This is something that is not always easy at first for some people, but with a little time and patience will become almost second nature. In order to show you some of the little tips I have learned over the years, Let's begin cutting a shape.
> 
> Let's start with the simple 's' shape that I provided in the practice patterns in Lesson #2. This piece, although simple, has both left and right turns for you to practice on.
> 
> Begin by casting on from the right side, aiming for the mark that I indicated as a starting point on the pattern. Remember to use the time you are moving from the edge to the point of beginning the design as a time to make any necessary adjustments to your saw such as speed and to get a feel for they type of wood you are doing. Also remember to slow down a bit before you get to the line, so you give time for the blade to relax and get ready to turn. This will soon come naturally to you and you won't have to even think about it anymore.
> 
> Turn the piece in a counter-clockwise direction and begin to cut out your shape and follow the line. I have had several inquiries regarding whether I cut 'inside the line' or 'outside the line' and although that I know of several scroller that use one of these methods, I prefer to cut directly ON the line and follow it as close as possible.
> 
> While you are cutting, remember to keep your elbows down and your arms relaxed. Have your saw going at a comfortable pace - not too aggressive at first so you can become accustom to moving through the wood. You will have plenty of time to speed up later on if you wish as you are more comfortable with what you are doing. Keep your wrists relaxed, too and use your fingertips to gently guide the wood through the saw. Continue using gentle and even pressure around the slight curve until you are coming up to point 'A' in the diagram.
> 
> As you approach point 'A', you are going to begin to apply slightly more pressure with your left hand to make a pivot point and use your right hand to gently guide the wood around that pivot point, causing your wood to turn to the left. Since this is a wide curve, the action is subtle and does not need to be over done. Use a slight shift in the weight of your hands and the movements will come to you naturally, like turning the wheel of a car. As you approach point 'B', redistribute the weight of your hands so that it is again almost equal by the time you are at point 'B'. This will all occur very quickly, but will also begin to come to you naturally as you practice. (I have indicated when most of the pivoting will occur by using a dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the figure, once again leveling off your pressure as you work around the curved area from point 'B' to point 'C'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you begin to approach point 'C', again begin to place slightly heavier pressure on your left, or pivoting hand and begin turning the piece counter-clockwise with your right hand. This time we are doing a full curve, so you will want to turn in steps, carefully lifting and replacing your right hand further toward the bottom of the piece so that you can guide it through the blade. For the most part, during this turn your left hand will remain in place, holding the piece down as you are turning. (Again, the place where you will be pivoting most is indicated by the dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you pass point 'D', you will again begin to relax both hands and equalize the pressure you are using from both hand to continue to guide your piece through the blade. Continue to cut until you approach point 'E'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you get close to point 'E', this time you will once again begin to put a little more pressure on your left hand, but this time you will begin turning the wood in a clockwise direction, following the line to point 'F' where you once again equalize the pressure between your two hands. (Pivoting most where the dotted lines indicate, between points 'E' and 'F')
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the piece until you approach your entry point. You will continually be adjusting the pressure of both hands and steering the piece through the blade. As you get close to your entry point, slow down and aim for the point where you started your cutting on the line. Allow the saw to do the work and guide the piece so the blade meets up with the entry spot as seamlessly as possible.
> 
> I have a short video which shows me cutting the piece out. I apologize for it being slightly dark, as I was experimenting to see if you would be able to see the lines better without my bright light. Problem was that I also was not able to see as well as usual to stay on the line!  I may try to reshoot tomorrow, but I am not sure if it is necessary or not. Let me know if you get a chance what you think. I think that it gets all the points that I wanted to across so I left it as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suggest you practice on some of your shapes that I provided for you on the training pattern in Lesson 2. The rounded shape such as the circles, ovals and stars will help you get a good feel for the blade and saw in general. I am going to stop here, and next time we will be learning about outside soft corners and hard corners. Remember if you have any questions or comments I will be keeping watch so that I can help you quickly. I am sure that others here will have some thoughts to share too.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by. I hope you are enjoying things so far.


SHelia - great series of videos. It is always to see a different method ( and better) that the one you are currently using. Love the vid's and drawings. Great information.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Outside Curves*
> 
> Now that we have had a chance to practice casting on and off, we are going to practice a bit more on cutting outside curves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting curves is probably one of the easiest things to do on a scroll saw. Most designs consist mainly of curved lines, with occasional straight runs from time to time. Once you get used to cutting curves and turning corners accurately, you are well on your way to being a great scroller.
> 
> One thing that is important to remember is that the blade is stationary and you are going to be moving your pieces through and around it. Unlike other types of tools like a circular saw or a router, where you actually move the tool over your piece, you will be doing the opposite when using your scroll saw by turning, pivoting and guiding your piece through the blade. I know that may seem obvious when you first read this, but it is important to tune your mind into that way of thinking and it will make scrolling much easier for you to accomplish.
> 
> Because of this way of thinking, the more control you have over moving your piece through the blade, the more accurate your cutting will be. This is something that is not always easy at first for some people, but with a little time and patience will become almost second nature. In order to show you some of the little tips I have learned over the years, Let's begin cutting a shape.
> 
> Let's start with the simple 's' shape that I provided in the practice patterns in Lesson #2. This piece, although simple, has both left and right turns for you to practice on.
> 
> Begin by casting on from the right side, aiming for the mark that I indicated as a starting point on the pattern. Remember to use the time you are moving from the edge to the point of beginning the design as a time to make any necessary adjustments to your saw such as speed and to get a feel for they type of wood you are doing. Also remember to slow down a bit before you get to the line, so you give time for the blade to relax and get ready to turn. This will soon come naturally to you and you won't have to even think about it anymore.
> 
> Turn the piece in a counter-clockwise direction and begin to cut out your shape and follow the line. I have had several inquiries regarding whether I cut 'inside the line' or 'outside the line' and although that I know of several scroller that use one of these methods, I prefer to cut directly ON the line and follow it as close as possible.
> 
> While you are cutting, remember to keep your elbows down and your arms relaxed. Have your saw going at a comfortable pace - not too aggressive at first so you can become accustom to moving through the wood. You will have plenty of time to speed up later on if you wish as you are more comfortable with what you are doing. Keep your wrists relaxed, too and use your fingertips to gently guide the wood through the saw. Continue using gentle and even pressure around the slight curve until you are coming up to point 'A' in the diagram.
> 
> As you approach point 'A', you are going to begin to apply slightly more pressure with your left hand to make a pivot point and use your right hand to gently guide the wood around that pivot point, causing your wood to turn to the left. Since this is a wide curve, the action is subtle and does not need to be over done. Use a slight shift in the weight of your hands and the movements will come to you naturally, like turning the wheel of a car. As you approach point 'B', redistribute the weight of your hands so that it is again almost equal by the time you are at point 'B'. This will all occur very quickly, but will also begin to come to you naturally as you practice. (I have indicated when most of the pivoting will occur by using a dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the figure, once again leveling off your pressure as you work around the curved area from point 'B' to point 'C'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you begin to approach point 'C', again begin to place slightly heavier pressure on your left, or pivoting hand and begin turning the piece counter-clockwise with your right hand. This time we are doing a full curve, so you will want to turn in steps, carefully lifting and replacing your right hand further toward the bottom of the piece so that you can guide it through the blade. For the most part, during this turn your left hand will remain in place, holding the piece down as you are turning. (Again, the place where you will be pivoting most is indicated by the dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you pass point 'D', you will again begin to relax both hands and equalize the pressure you are using from both hand to continue to guide your piece through the blade. Continue to cut until you approach point 'E'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you get close to point 'E', this time you will once again begin to put a little more pressure on your left hand, but this time you will begin turning the wood in a clockwise direction, following the line to point 'F' where you once again equalize the pressure between your two hands. (Pivoting most where the dotted lines indicate, between points 'E' and 'F')
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the piece until you approach your entry point. You will continually be adjusting the pressure of both hands and steering the piece through the blade. As you get close to your entry point, slow down and aim for the point where you started your cutting on the line. Allow the saw to do the work and guide the piece so the blade meets up with the entry spot as seamlessly as possible.
> 
> I have a short video which shows me cutting the piece out. I apologize for it being slightly dark, as I was experimenting to see if you would be able to see the lines better without my bright light. Problem was that I also was not able to see as well as usual to stay on the line!  I may try to reshoot tomorrow, but I am not sure if it is necessary or not. Let me know if you get a chance what you think. I think that it gets all the points that I wanted to across so I left it as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suggest you practice on some of your shapes that I provided for you on the training pattern in Lesson 2. The rounded shape such as the circles, ovals and stars will help you get a good feel for the blade and saw in general. I am going to stop here, and next time we will be learning about outside soft corners and hard corners. Remember if you have any questions or comments I will be keeping watch so that I can help you quickly. I am sure that others here will have some thoughts to share too.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by. I hope you are enjoying things so far.


Thanks Jerrells! 

Sheila


----------



## scober

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Outside Curves*
> 
> Now that we have had a chance to practice casting on and off, we are going to practice a bit more on cutting outside curves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting curves is probably one of the easiest things to do on a scroll saw. Most designs consist mainly of curved lines, with occasional straight runs from time to time. Once you get used to cutting curves and turning corners accurately, you are well on your way to being a great scroller.
> 
> One thing that is important to remember is that the blade is stationary and you are going to be moving your pieces through and around it. Unlike other types of tools like a circular saw or a router, where you actually move the tool over your piece, you will be doing the opposite when using your scroll saw by turning, pivoting and guiding your piece through the blade. I know that may seem obvious when you first read this, but it is important to tune your mind into that way of thinking and it will make scrolling much easier for you to accomplish.
> 
> Because of this way of thinking, the more control you have over moving your piece through the blade, the more accurate your cutting will be. This is something that is not always easy at first for some people, but with a little time and patience will become almost second nature. In order to show you some of the little tips I have learned over the years, Let's begin cutting a shape.
> 
> Let's start with the simple 's' shape that I provided in the practice patterns in Lesson #2. This piece, although simple, has both left and right turns for you to practice on.
> 
> Begin by casting on from the right side, aiming for the mark that I indicated as a starting point on the pattern. Remember to use the time you are moving from the edge to the point of beginning the design as a time to make any necessary adjustments to your saw such as speed and to get a feel for they type of wood you are doing. Also remember to slow down a bit before you get to the line, so you give time for the blade to relax and get ready to turn. This will soon come naturally to you and you won't have to even think about it anymore.
> 
> Turn the piece in a counter-clockwise direction and begin to cut out your shape and follow the line. I have had several inquiries regarding whether I cut 'inside the line' or 'outside the line' and although that I know of several scroller that use one of these methods, I prefer to cut directly ON the line and follow it as close as possible.
> 
> While you are cutting, remember to keep your elbows down and your arms relaxed. Have your saw going at a comfortable pace - not too aggressive at first so you can become accustom to moving through the wood. You will have plenty of time to speed up later on if you wish as you are more comfortable with what you are doing. Keep your wrists relaxed, too and use your fingertips to gently guide the wood through the saw. Continue using gentle and even pressure around the slight curve until you are coming up to point 'A' in the diagram.
> 
> As you approach point 'A', you are going to begin to apply slightly more pressure with your left hand to make a pivot point and use your right hand to gently guide the wood around that pivot point, causing your wood to turn to the left. Since this is a wide curve, the action is subtle and does not need to be over done. Use a slight shift in the weight of your hands and the movements will come to you naturally, like turning the wheel of a car. As you approach point 'B', redistribute the weight of your hands so that it is again almost equal by the time you are at point 'B'. This will all occur very quickly, but will also begin to come to you naturally as you practice. (I have indicated when most of the pivoting will occur by using a dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the figure, once again leveling off your pressure as you work around the curved area from point 'B' to point 'C'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you begin to approach point 'C', again begin to place slightly heavier pressure on your left, or pivoting hand and begin turning the piece counter-clockwise with your right hand. This time we are doing a full curve, so you will want to turn in steps, carefully lifting and replacing your right hand further toward the bottom of the piece so that you can guide it through the blade. For the most part, during this turn your left hand will remain in place, holding the piece down as you are turning. (Again, the place where you will be pivoting most is indicated by the dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you pass point 'D', you will again begin to relax both hands and equalize the pressure you are using from both hand to continue to guide your piece through the blade. Continue to cut until you approach point 'E'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you get close to point 'E', this time you will once again begin to put a little more pressure on your left hand, but this time you will begin turning the wood in a clockwise direction, following the line to point 'F' where you once again equalize the pressure between your two hands. (Pivoting most where the dotted lines indicate, between points 'E' and 'F')
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the piece until you approach your entry point. You will continually be adjusting the pressure of both hands and steering the piece through the blade. As you get close to your entry point, slow down and aim for the point where you started your cutting on the line. Allow the saw to do the work and guide the piece so the blade meets up with the entry spot as seamlessly as possible.
> 
> I have a short video which shows me cutting the piece out. I apologize for it being slightly dark, as I was experimenting to see if you would be able to see the lines better without my bright light. Problem was that I also was not able to see as well as usual to stay on the line!  I may try to reshoot tomorrow, but I am not sure if it is necessary or not. Let me know if you get a chance what you think. I think that it gets all the points that I wanted to across so I left it as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suggest you practice on some of your shapes that I provided for you on the training pattern in Lesson 2. The rounded shape such as the circles, ovals and stars will help you get a good feel for the blade and saw in general. I am going to stop here, and next time we will be learning about outside soft corners and hard corners. Remember if you have any questions or comments I will be keeping watch so that I can help you quickly. I am sure that others here will have some thoughts to share too.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by. I hope you are enjoying things so far.


Scrolling is way cool, however alot of practice is the key. Much like fly fishing


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Outside Curves*
> 
> Now that we have had a chance to practice casting on and off, we are going to practice a bit more on cutting outside curves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting curves is probably one of the easiest things to do on a scroll saw. Most designs consist mainly of curved lines, with occasional straight runs from time to time. Once you get used to cutting curves and turning corners accurately, you are well on your way to being a great scroller.
> 
> One thing that is important to remember is that the blade is stationary and you are going to be moving your pieces through and around it. Unlike other types of tools like a circular saw or a router, where you actually move the tool over your piece, you will be doing the opposite when using your scroll saw by turning, pivoting and guiding your piece through the blade. I know that may seem obvious when you first read this, but it is important to tune your mind into that way of thinking and it will make scrolling much easier for you to accomplish.
> 
> Because of this way of thinking, the more control you have over moving your piece through the blade, the more accurate your cutting will be. This is something that is not always easy at first for some people, but with a little time and patience will become almost second nature. In order to show you some of the little tips I have learned over the years, Let's begin cutting a shape.
> 
> Let's start with the simple 's' shape that I provided in the practice patterns in Lesson #2. This piece, although simple, has both left and right turns for you to practice on.
> 
> Begin by casting on from the right side, aiming for the mark that I indicated as a starting point on the pattern. Remember to use the time you are moving from the edge to the point of beginning the design as a time to make any necessary adjustments to your saw such as speed and to get a feel for they type of wood you are doing. Also remember to slow down a bit before you get to the line, so you give time for the blade to relax and get ready to turn. This will soon come naturally to you and you won't have to even think about it anymore.
> 
> Turn the piece in a counter-clockwise direction and begin to cut out your shape and follow the line. I have had several inquiries regarding whether I cut 'inside the line' or 'outside the line' and although that I know of several scroller that use one of these methods, I prefer to cut directly ON the line and follow it as close as possible.
> 
> While you are cutting, remember to keep your elbows down and your arms relaxed. Have your saw going at a comfortable pace - not too aggressive at first so you can become accustom to moving through the wood. You will have plenty of time to speed up later on if you wish as you are more comfortable with what you are doing. Keep your wrists relaxed, too and use your fingertips to gently guide the wood through the saw. Continue using gentle and even pressure around the slight curve until you are coming up to point 'A' in the diagram.
> 
> As you approach point 'A', you are going to begin to apply slightly more pressure with your left hand to make a pivot point and use your right hand to gently guide the wood around that pivot point, causing your wood to turn to the left. Since this is a wide curve, the action is subtle and does not need to be over done. Use a slight shift in the weight of your hands and the movements will come to you naturally, like turning the wheel of a car. As you approach point 'B', redistribute the weight of your hands so that it is again almost equal by the time you are at point 'B'. This will all occur very quickly, but will also begin to come to you naturally as you practice. (I have indicated when most of the pivoting will occur by using a dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the figure, once again leveling off your pressure as you work around the curved area from point 'B' to point 'C'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you begin to approach point 'C', again begin to place slightly heavier pressure on your left, or pivoting hand and begin turning the piece counter-clockwise with your right hand. This time we are doing a full curve, so you will want to turn in steps, carefully lifting and replacing your right hand further toward the bottom of the piece so that you can guide it through the blade. For the most part, during this turn your left hand will remain in place, holding the piece down as you are turning. (Again, the place where you will be pivoting most is indicated by the dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you pass point 'D', you will again begin to relax both hands and equalize the pressure you are using from both hand to continue to guide your piece through the blade. Continue to cut until you approach point 'E'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you get close to point 'E', this time you will once again begin to put a little more pressure on your left hand, but this time you will begin turning the wood in a clockwise direction, following the line to point 'F' where you once again equalize the pressure between your two hands. (Pivoting most where the dotted lines indicate, between points 'E' and 'F')
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the piece until you approach your entry point. You will continually be adjusting the pressure of both hands and steering the piece through the blade. As you get close to your entry point, slow down and aim for the point where you started your cutting on the line. Allow the saw to do the work and guide the piece so the blade meets up with the entry spot as seamlessly as possible.
> 
> I have a short video which shows me cutting the piece out. I apologize for it being slightly dark, as I was experimenting to see if you would be able to see the lines better without my bright light. Problem was that I also was not able to see as well as usual to stay on the line!  I may try to reshoot tomorrow, but I am not sure if it is necessary or not. Let me know if you get a chance what you think. I think that it gets all the points that I wanted to across so I left it as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suggest you practice on some of your shapes that I provided for you on the training pattern in Lesson 2. The rounded shape such as the circles, ovals and stars will help you get a good feel for the blade and saw in general. I am going to stop here, and next time we will be learning about outside soft corners and hard corners. Remember if you have any questions or comments I will be keeping watch so that I can help you quickly. I am sure that others here will have some thoughts to share too.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by. I hope you are enjoying things so far.


Good music and relaxing while you are cutting is the key! Just remember "one hole at a time" and things don't seem so intimidating. Most important- have fun!

If you have any questions, just ask. 

Sheila


----------



## jake86

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Outside Curves*
> 
> Now that we have had a chance to practice casting on and off, we are going to practice a bit more on cutting outside curves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting curves is probably one of the easiest things to do on a scroll saw. Most designs consist mainly of curved lines, with occasional straight runs from time to time. Once you get used to cutting curves and turning corners accurately, you are well on your way to being a great scroller.
> 
> One thing that is important to remember is that the blade is stationary and you are going to be moving your pieces through and around it. Unlike other types of tools like a circular saw or a router, where you actually move the tool over your piece, you will be doing the opposite when using your scroll saw by turning, pivoting and guiding your piece through the blade. I know that may seem obvious when you first read this, but it is important to tune your mind into that way of thinking and it will make scrolling much easier for you to accomplish.
> 
> Because of this way of thinking, the more control you have over moving your piece through the blade, the more accurate your cutting will be. This is something that is not always easy at first for some people, but with a little time and patience will become almost second nature. In order to show you some of the little tips I have learned over the years, Let's begin cutting a shape.
> 
> Let's start with the simple 's' shape that I provided in the practice patterns in Lesson #2. This piece, although simple, has both left and right turns for you to practice on.
> 
> Begin by casting on from the right side, aiming for the mark that I indicated as a starting point on the pattern. Remember to use the time you are moving from the edge to the point of beginning the design as a time to make any necessary adjustments to your saw such as speed and to get a feel for they type of wood you are doing. Also remember to slow down a bit before you get to the line, so you give time for the blade to relax and get ready to turn. This will soon come naturally to you and you won't have to even think about it anymore.
> 
> Turn the piece in a counter-clockwise direction and begin to cut out your shape and follow the line. I have had several inquiries regarding whether I cut 'inside the line' or 'outside the line' and although that I know of several scroller that use one of these methods, I prefer to cut directly ON the line and follow it as close as possible.
> 
> While you are cutting, remember to keep your elbows down and your arms relaxed. Have your saw going at a comfortable pace - not too aggressive at first so you can become accustom to moving through the wood. You will have plenty of time to speed up later on if you wish as you are more comfortable with what you are doing. Keep your wrists relaxed, too and use your fingertips to gently guide the wood through the saw. Continue using gentle and even pressure around the slight curve until you are coming up to point 'A' in the diagram.
> 
> As you approach point 'A', you are going to begin to apply slightly more pressure with your left hand to make a pivot point and use your right hand to gently guide the wood around that pivot point, causing your wood to turn to the left. Since this is a wide curve, the action is subtle and does not need to be over done. Use a slight shift in the weight of your hands and the movements will come to you naturally, like turning the wheel of a car. As you approach point 'B', redistribute the weight of your hands so that it is again almost equal by the time you are at point 'B'. This will all occur very quickly, but will also begin to come to you naturally as you practice. (I have indicated when most of the pivoting will occur by using a dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the figure, once again leveling off your pressure as you work around the curved area from point 'B' to point 'C'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you begin to approach point 'C', again begin to place slightly heavier pressure on your left, or pivoting hand and begin turning the piece counter-clockwise with your right hand. This time we are doing a full curve, so you will want to turn in steps, carefully lifting and replacing your right hand further toward the bottom of the piece so that you can guide it through the blade. For the most part, during this turn your left hand will remain in place, holding the piece down as you are turning. (Again, the place where you will be pivoting most is indicated by the dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you pass point 'D', you will again begin to relax both hands and equalize the pressure you are using from both hand to continue to guide your piece through the blade. Continue to cut until you approach point 'E'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you get close to point 'E', this time you will once again begin to put a little more pressure on your left hand, but this time you will begin turning the wood in a clockwise direction, following the line to point 'F' where you once again equalize the pressure between your two hands. (Pivoting most where the dotted lines indicate, between points 'E' and 'F')
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the piece until you approach your entry point. You will continually be adjusting the pressure of both hands and steering the piece through the blade. As you get close to your entry point, slow down and aim for the point where you started your cutting on the line. Allow the saw to do the work and guide the piece so the blade meets up with the entry spot as seamlessly as possible.
> 
> I have a short video which shows me cutting the piece out. I apologize for it being slightly dark, as I was experimenting to see if you would be able to see the lines better without my bright light. Problem was that I also was not able to see as well as usual to stay on the line!  I may try to reshoot tomorrow, but I am not sure if it is necessary or not. Let me know if you get a chance what you think. I think that it gets all the points that I wanted to across so I left it as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suggest you practice on some of your shapes that I provided for you on the training pattern in Lesson 2. The rounded shape such as the circles, ovals and stars will help you get a good feel for the blade and saw in general. I am going to stop here, and next time we will be learning about outside soft corners and hard corners. Remember if you have any questions or comments I will be keeping watch so that I can help you quickly. I am sure that others here will have some thoughts to share too.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by. I hope you are enjoying things so far.


Hey scrolgirl, I'm still doing my lessons. #5 lesson and doing my homework like a good little student too. Hope to get good enough to get one of your patterns,....the one with the black cat & pumpkin..a sectional I believe. But I have a way to go before then. Just want to say thanks for this wonderful course. You are a super teacher!

Live long & prosper,

Jake


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Outside Curves*
> 
> Now that we have had a chance to practice casting on and off, we are going to practice a bit more on cutting outside curves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting curves is probably one of the easiest things to do on a scroll saw. Most designs consist mainly of curved lines, with occasional straight runs from time to time. Once you get used to cutting curves and turning corners accurately, you are well on your way to being a great scroller.
> 
> One thing that is important to remember is that the blade is stationary and you are going to be moving your pieces through and around it. Unlike other types of tools like a circular saw or a router, where you actually move the tool over your piece, you will be doing the opposite when using your scroll saw by turning, pivoting and guiding your piece through the blade. I know that may seem obvious when you first read this, but it is important to tune your mind into that way of thinking and it will make scrolling much easier for you to accomplish.
> 
> Because of this way of thinking, the more control you have over moving your piece through the blade, the more accurate your cutting will be. This is something that is not always easy at first for some people, but with a little time and patience will become almost second nature. In order to show you some of the little tips I have learned over the years, Let's begin cutting a shape.
> 
> Let's start with the simple 's' shape that I provided in the practice patterns in Lesson #2. This piece, although simple, has both left and right turns for you to practice on.
> 
> Begin by casting on from the right side, aiming for the mark that I indicated as a starting point on the pattern. Remember to use the time you are moving from the edge to the point of beginning the design as a time to make any necessary adjustments to your saw such as speed and to get a feel for they type of wood you are doing. Also remember to slow down a bit before you get to the line, so you give time for the blade to relax and get ready to turn. This will soon come naturally to you and you won't have to even think about it anymore.
> 
> Turn the piece in a counter-clockwise direction and begin to cut out your shape and follow the line. I have had several inquiries regarding whether I cut 'inside the line' or 'outside the line' and although that I know of several scroller that use one of these methods, I prefer to cut directly ON the line and follow it as close as possible.
> 
> While you are cutting, remember to keep your elbows down and your arms relaxed. Have your saw going at a comfortable pace - not too aggressive at first so you can become accustom to moving through the wood. You will have plenty of time to speed up later on if you wish as you are more comfortable with what you are doing. Keep your wrists relaxed, too and use your fingertips to gently guide the wood through the saw. Continue using gentle and even pressure around the slight curve until you are coming up to point 'A' in the diagram.
> 
> As you approach point 'A', you are going to begin to apply slightly more pressure with your left hand to make a pivot point and use your right hand to gently guide the wood around that pivot point, causing your wood to turn to the left. Since this is a wide curve, the action is subtle and does not need to be over done. Use a slight shift in the weight of your hands and the movements will come to you naturally, like turning the wheel of a car. As you approach point 'B', redistribute the weight of your hands so that it is again almost equal by the time you are at point 'B'. This will all occur very quickly, but will also begin to come to you naturally as you practice. (I have indicated when most of the pivoting will occur by using a dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the figure, once again leveling off your pressure as you work around the curved area from point 'B' to point 'C'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you begin to approach point 'C', again begin to place slightly heavier pressure on your left, or pivoting hand and begin turning the piece counter-clockwise with your right hand. This time we are doing a full curve, so you will want to turn in steps, carefully lifting and replacing your right hand further toward the bottom of the piece so that you can guide it through the blade. For the most part, during this turn your left hand will remain in place, holding the piece down as you are turning. (Again, the place where you will be pivoting most is indicated by the dotted line)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you pass point 'D', you will again begin to relax both hands and equalize the pressure you are using from both hand to continue to guide your piece through the blade. Continue to cut until you approach point 'E'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you get close to point 'E', this time you will once again begin to put a little more pressure on your left hand, but this time you will begin turning the wood in a clockwise direction, following the line to point 'F' where you once again equalize the pressure between your two hands. (Pivoting most where the dotted lines indicate, between points 'E' and 'F')
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue around the piece until you approach your entry point. You will continually be adjusting the pressure of both hands and steering the piece through the blade. As you get close to your entry point, slow down and aim for the point where you started your cutting on the line. Allow the saw to do the work and guide the piece so the blade meets up with the entry spot as seamlessly as possible.
> 
> I have a short video which shows me cutting the piece out. I apologize for it being slightly dark, as I was experimenting to see if you would be able to see the lines better without my bright light. Problem was that I also was not able to see as well as usual to stay on the line!  I may try to reshoot tomorrow, but I am not sure if it is necessary or not. Let me know if you get a chance what you think. I think that it gets all the points that I wanted to across so I left it as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suggest you practice on some of your shapes that I provided for you on the training pattern in Lesson 2. The rounded shape such as the circles, ovals and stars will help you get a good feel for the blade and saw in general. I am going to stop here, and next time we will be learning about outside soft corners and hard corners. Remember if you have any questions or comments I will be keeping watch so that I can help you quickly. I am sure that others here will have some thoughts to share too.
> 
> Thanks for stopping by. I hope you are enjoying things so far.


Thank you very much! Segmentation is fun and really relaxing. It takes a bit more time than regular scrolling, but I do like the results. As I said, if you have any questions, just let me know and I will be happy to help you. I am glad you are enjoying the class, too! 

Sincerely, Sheila


----------



## scrollgirl

*Cutting Sharp (Acute) Outside Corners*

By now most of you should have a bit of a feel for cutting some nice outside curves on the scroll saw. As we know however, most designs also consist of some nice sharp angles. Making accurate corners can be a bit of a challenge when you are new to scroll sawing, but with a few quick tips and a little bit of practice, you will find it is not as difficult as you may have imagined. Before long you will be scrolling those angles with little effort or thought.










In order for me to show you some ideas I have on scroll sawing outside corners, I drew up a practice pattern by using and modifying part of the design from my Gothic Bats Candle Tray and Charms Set.

Since the bats in this design have many pointed areas, I thought they would be perfect for you to practice this technique on. I am also going to demonstrate how you can drill holes in the tops of them for hanging as ornaments or a garland. This technique can be used on many other types of projects and shapes and is very simple to do.

I have given you a couple of sizes of bats to practice on, so that you can try them with different thicknesses of wood and different blade sizes and it will give you a feel for this technique. You can download the pattern here at my Google Docs and print it out for yourself. Use the patterns for any personal use you wish. You can even cut out several for your kids to paint and play with.

Let's start with applying the pattern. Below is a quick review.

Start by applying some blue painter's tape to your piece of wood. For my sample piece, I used a piece of poplar that was just over 5/8" thick. (You may find it a little easier to use a piece of wood that is slightly thinner, like 3/8" - 1/2" when you are starting out.) You are going to line up the bottom dotted lines of the bat pattern on the straight or milled edge of your wood if you are planning on drilling a hole in the top o the bat to hang.










Next apply temporary adhesive to the backs of the patterns pieces. Wait a couple of seconds until they are sticky and apply them to the wood, right over the top of the blue tape.










If you plan to drill a hole in the top of the bat, now is the time to do so. First, mark the center of the piece of wood with a pencil:










Then place the piece on your drill press and line up the bit with the vertical dotted line.










Drill the hole into the center of the piece at the depth you desire. You can drill just a quarter inch or so deep so that you can attach a hanger, or you can drill all the way through to the bottom to create a garland. As long as you have flat edges at the top and the bottom, it is a fairly easy procedure to do.

For our purposes here, I used an 1/8" drill bit. That way I could knot ribbon or yarn and put a drop of glue in the hole and push the knot in to secure it to hang my bats. However, you may want to drill all the way through to the bottom so you can string several bats together. By doing this step before you scroll your piece out, you will greatly minimize the chance of breaking the bottom of the bat or tearing it out with the drill bit.

You are now ready to start cutting. For this piece, I used a #2 blade. I chose to start on the end point of the bat's wing. That way when I come to the end, I can come out of the piece right at the tip of the point and not leave a mark like when we had only smooth edges to deal with. Begin cutting from the tip of the wing, going along the bottom edge. (I am working in a clockwise direction again. It is my personal preference to cut in this direction. You can cut either clockwise or counter clockwise - whichever is more comfortable to you)










Continue cutting until you reach the end of the first section:










Instead of turning to follow the line, begin turning the piece towards the waste area as you reach the tip of the wing, cutting very slightly into the waste area. This will be a pivot more than a cut. Once you begin pivoting the piece, very slightly lean the piece towards you so that the back of the blade is touching the wood, not the front cutting edge.










Turn the piece completely around so that you have tiny pocket in the waste area so that you can realign the blade to the line. Continue to cut along the line.










I have a short video here which will hopefully better illustrate this process. At the end of the video, when I was demonstrating the direction of the turn on the bat's ear, I said in error to turn in a *clockwise direction*. I meant in a *counter clockwise direction*, or toward the waste area. I think that an easier way to remember is to always turn towards the waste area when cutting points and outside corners like this. It is much easier than figuring clockwise and counter clockwise while you are cutting.

Below is the first video which illustrates the process.






Now I will show you a video of the actual cutting. When you are practicing, I would suggest that you choose a larger piece of wood so that you have a bit more to hold on to. Although you need to follow the dotted lines at the top and the bottom of the bat if you are drilling, you can cut it on a wider piece and it will give you more waste area to hold and feel more comfortable for you.

You may also wish to use a thinner piece of wood to start out. I used a 5/8" piece of wood, but you may want to try 1/2". I also used poplar, which is a softer wood and I would suggest something like that or basswood to begin with. Something with an even grain works best. Of course you can use maple or other harder woods, but I would suggest you keep your pieces to about 3/8" or so until you are more comfortable.






I hope these help you understand how I do sharp outside corners. Please feel free to ask me questions here on the forum. Chances are if you have questions, others may also be wondering the same thing. Maybe try a couple of practice pieces and then let me know what you think. I hope that I explained everything in a manner that you all can understand. I will be happy to clarify anything that I missed.

Remember too that it may take a little time to become comfortable with these techniques. I didn't learn them over night and I don't expect you will either. The main thing is to relax and have fun with them and pretty soon you won't even have to think about what you are doing.

I hope you enjoyed this lesson and learned something too. Thanks for reading.


----------



## lanwater

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Sharp (Acute) Outside Corners*
> 
> By now most of you should have a bit of a feel for cutting some nice outside curves on the scroll saw. As we know however, most designs also consist of some nice sharp angles. Making accurate corners can be a bit of a challenge when you are new to scroll sawing, but with a few quick tips and a little bit of practice, you will find it is not as difficult as you may have imagined. Before long you will be scrolling those angles with little effort or thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In order for me to show you some ideas I have on scroll sawing outside corners, I drew up a practice pattern by using and modifying part of the design from my Gothic Bats Candle Tray and Charms Set.
> 
> Since the bats in this design have many pointed areas, I thought they would be perfect for you to practice this technique on. I am also going to demonstrate how you can drill holes in the tops of them for hanging as ornaments or a garland. This technique can be used on many other types of projects and shapes and is very simple to do.
> 
> I have given you a couple of sizes of bats to practice on, so that you can try them with different thicknesses of wood and different blade sizes and it will give you a feel for this technique. You can download the pattern here at my Google Docs and print it out for yourself. Use the patterns for any personal use you wish. You can even cut out several for your kids to paint and play with.
> 
> Let's start with applying the pattern. Below is a quick review.
> 
> Start by applying some blue painter's tape to your piece of wood. For my sample piece, I used a piece of poplar that was just over 5/8" thick. (You may find it a little easier to use a piece of wood that is slightly thinner, like 3/8" - 1/2" when you are starting out.) You are going to line up the bottom dotted lines of the bat pattern on the straight or milled edge of your wood if you are planning on drilling a hole in the top o the bat to hang.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next apply temporary adhesive to the backs of the patterns pieces. Wait a couple of seconds until they are sticky and apply them to the wood, right over the top of the blue tape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you plan to drill a hole in the top of the bat, now is the time to do so. First, mark the center of the piece of wood with a pencil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then place the piece on your drill press and line up the bit with the vertical dotted line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole into the center of the piece at the depth you desire. You can drill just a quarter inch or so deep so that you can attach a hanger, or you can drill all the way through to the bottom to create a garland. As long as you have flat edges at the top and the bottom, it is a fairly easy procedure to do.
> 
> For our purposes here, I used an 1/8" drill bit. That way I could knot ribbon or yarn and put a drop of glue in the hole and push the knot in to secure it to hang my bats. However, you may want to drill all the way through to the bottom so you can string several bats together. By doing this step before you scroll your piece out, you will greatly minimize the chance of breaking the bottom of the bat or tearing it out with the drill bit.
> 
> You are now ready to start cutting. For this piece, I used a #2 blade. I chose to start on the end point of the bat's wing. That way when I come to the end, I can come out of the piece right at the tip of the point and not leave a mark like when we had only smooth edges to deal with. Begin cutting from the tip of the wing, going along the bottom edge. (I am working in a clockwise direction again. It is my personal preference to cut in this direction. You can cut either clockwise or counter clockwise - whichever is more comfortable to you)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue cutting until you reach the end of the first section:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instead of turning to follow the line, begin turning the piece towards the waste area as you reach the tip of the wing, cutting very slightly into the waste area. This will be a pivot more than a cut. Once you begin pivoting the piece, very slightly lean the piece towards you so that the back of the blade is touching the wood, not the front cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the piece completely around so that you have tiny pocket in the waste area so that you can realign the blade to the line. Continue to cut along the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a short video here which will hopefully better illustrate this process. At the end of the video, when I was demonstrating the direction of the turn on the bat's ear, I said in error to turn in a *clockwise direction*. I meant in a *counter clockwise direction*, or toward the waste area. I think that an easier way to remember is to always turn towards the waste area when cutting points and outside corners like this. It is much easier than figuring clockwise and counter clockwise while you are cutting.
> 
> Below is the first video which illustrates the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will show you a video of the actual cutting. When you are practicing, I would suggest that you choose a larger piece of wood so that you have a bit more to hold on to. Although you need to follow the dotted lines at the top and the bottom of the bat if you are drilling, you can cut it on a wider piece and it will give you more waste area to hold and feel more comfortable for you.
> 
> You may also wish to use a thinner piece of wood to start out. I used a 5/8" piece of wood, but you may want to try 1/2". I also used poplar, which is a softer wood and I would suggest something like that or basswood to begin with. Something with an even grain works best. Of course you can use maple or other harder woods, but I would suggest you keep your pieces to about 3/8" or so until you are more comfortable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope these help you understand how I do sharp outside corners. Please feel free to ask me questions here on the forum. Chances are if you have questions, others may also be wondering the same thing. Maybe try a couple of practice pieces and then let me know what you think. I hope that I explained everything in a manner that you all can understand. I will be happy to clarify anything that I missed.
> 
> Remember too that it may take a little time to become comfortable with these techniques. I didn't learn them over night and I don't expect you will either. The main thing is to relax and have fun with them and pretty soon you won't even have to think about what you are doing.
> 
> I hope you enjoyed this lesson and learned something too. Thanks for reading.


Great blog.
Although I have a scrollsaw, I only used it very few times. Totally inexperienced.
I dread sharp corners.
your videos shed some lights. No excuse not to practice now.

Thanks!


----------



## rance

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Sharp (Acute) Outside Corners*
> 
> By now most of you should have a bit of a feel for cutting some nice outside curves on the scroll saw. As we know however, most designs also consist of some nice sharp angles. Making accurate corners can be a bit of a challenge when you are new to scroll sawing, but with a few quick tips and a little bit of practice, you will find it is not as difficult as you may have imagined. Before long you will be scrolling those angles with little effort or thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In order for me to show you some ideas I have on scroll sawing outside corners, I drew up a practice pattern by using and modifying part of the design from my Gothic Bats Candle Tray and Charms Set.
> 
> Since the bats in this design have many pointed areas, I thought they would be perfect for you to practice this technique on. I am also going to demonstrate how you can drill holes in the tops of them for hanging as ornaments or a garland. This technique can be used on many other types of projects and shapes and is very simple to do.
> 
> I have given you a couple of sizes of bats to practice on, so that you can try them with different thicknesses of wood and different blade sizes and it will give you a feel for this technique. You can download the pattern here at my Google Docs and print it out for yourself. Use the patterns for any personal use you wish. You can even cut out several for your kids to paint and play with.
> 
> Let's start with applying the pattern. Below is a quick review.
> 
> Start by applying some blue painter's tape to your piece of wood. For my sample piece, I used a piece of poplar that was just over 5/8" thick. (You may find it a little easier to use a piece of wood that is slightly thinner, like 3/8" - 1/2" when you are starting out.) You are going to line up the bottom dotted lines of the bat pattern on the straight or milled edge of your wood if you are planning on drilling a hole in the top o the bat to hang.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next apply temporary adhesive to the backs of the patterns pieces. Wait a couple of seconds until they are sticky and apply them to the wood, right over the top of the blue tape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you plan to drill a hole in the top of the bat, now is the time to do so. First, mark the center of the piece of wood with a pencil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then place the piece on your drill press and line up the bit with the vertical dotted line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole into the center of the piece at the depth you desire. You can drill just a quarter inch or so deep so that you can attach a hanger, or you can drill all the way through to the bottom to create a garland. As long as you have flat edges at the top and the bottom, it is a fairly easy procedure to do.
> 
> For our purposes here, I used an 1/8" drill bit. That way I could knot ribbon or yarn and put a drop of glue in the hole and push the knot in to secure it to hang my bats. However, you may want to drill all the way through to the bottom so you can string several bats together. By doing this step before you scroll your piece out, you will greatly minimize the chance of breaking the bottom of the bat or tearing it out with the drill bit.
> 
> You are now ready to start cutting. For this piece, I used a #2 blade. I chose to start on the end point of the bat's wing. That way when I come to the end, I can come out of the piece right at the tip of the point and not leave a mark like when we had only smooth edges to deal with. Begin cutting from the tip of the wing, going along the bottom edge. (I am working in a clockwise direction again. It is my personal preference to cut in this direction. You can cut either clockwise or counter clockwise - whichever is more comfortable to you)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue cutting until you reach the end of the first section:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instead of turning to follow the line, begin turning the piece towards the waste area as you reach the tip of the wing, cutting very slightly into the waste area. This will be a pivot more than a cut. Once you begin pivoting the piece, very slightly lean the piece towards you so that the back of the blade is touching the wood, not the front cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the piece completely around so that you have tiny pocket in the waste area so that you can realign the blade to the line. Continue to cut along the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a short video here which will hopefully better illustrate this process. At the end of the video, when I was demonstrating the direction of the turn on the bat's ear, I said in error to turn in a *clockwise direction*. I meant in a *counter clockwise direction*, or toward the waste area. I think that an easier way to remember is to always turn towards the waste area when cutting points and outside corners like this. It is much easier than figuring clockwise and counter clockwise while you are cutting.
> 
> Below is the first video which illustrates the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will show you a video of the actual cutting. When you are practicing, I would suggest that you choose a larger piece of wood so that you have a bit more to hold on to. Although you need to follow the dotted lines at the top and the bottom of the bat if you are drilling, you can cut it on a wider piece and it will give you more waste area to hold and feel more comfortable for you.
> 
> You may also wish to use a thinner piece of wood to start out. I used a 5/8" piece of wood, but you may want to try 1/2". I also used poplar, which is a softer wood and I would suggest something like that or basswood to begin with. Something with an even grain works best. Of course you can use maple or other harder woods, but I would suggest you keep your pieces to about 3/8" or so until you are more comfortable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope these help you understand how I do sharp outside corners. Please feel free to ask me questions here on the forum. Chances are if you have questions, others may also be wondering the same thing. Maybe try a couple of practice pieces and then let me know what you think. I hope that I explained everything in a manner that you all can understand. I will be happy to clarify anything that I missed.
> 
> Remember too that it may take a little time to become comfortable with these techniques. I didn't learn them over night and I don't expect you will either. The main thing is to relax and have fun with them and pretty soon you won't even have to think about what you are doing.
> 
> I hope you enjoyed this lesson and learned something too. Thanks for reading.


Thanks again Sheila.


----------



## huntter2022

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Sharp (Acute) Outside Corners*
> 
> By now most of you should have a bit of a feel for cutting some nice outside curves on the scroll saw. As we know however, most designs also consist of some nice sharp angles. Making accurate corners can be a bit of a challenge when you are new to scroll sawing, but with a few quick tips and a little bit of practice, you will find it is not as difficult as you may have imagined. Before long you will be scrolling those angles with little effort or thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In order for me to show you some ideas I have on scroll sawing outside corners, I drew up a practice pattern by using and modifying part of the design from my Gothic Bats Candle Tray and Charms Set.
> 
> Since the bats in this design have many pointed areas, I thought they would be perfect for you to practice this technique on. I am also going to demonstrate how you can drill holes in the tops of them for hanging as ornaments or a garland. This technique can be used on many other types of projects and shapes and is very simple to do.
> 
> I have given you a couple of sizes of bats to practice on, so that you can try them with different thicknesses of wood and different blade sizes and it will give you a feel for this technique. You can download the pattern here at my Google Docs and print it out for yourself. Use the patterns for any personal use you wish. You can even cut out several for your kids to paint and play with.
> 
> Let's start with applying the pattern. Below is a quick review.
> 
> Start by applying some blue painter's tape to your piece of wood. For my sample piece, I used a piece of poplar that was just over 5/8" thick. (You may find it a little easier to use a piece of wood that is slightly thinner, like 3/8" - 1/2" when you are starting out.) You are going to line up the bottom dotted lines of the bat pattern on the straight or milled edge of your wood if you are planning on drilling a hole in the top o the bat to hang.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next apply temporary adhesive to the backs of the patterns pieces. Wait a couple of seconds until they are sticky and apply them to the wood, right over the top of the blue tape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you plan to drill a hole in the top of the bat, now is the time to do so. First, mark the center of the piece of wood with a pencil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then place the piece on your drill press and line up the bit with the vertical dotted line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole into the center of the piece at the depth you desire. You can drill just a quarter inch or so deep so that you can attach a hanger, or you can drill all the way through to the bottom to create a garland. As long as you have flat edges at the top and the bottom, it is a fairly easy procedure to do.
> 
> For our purposes here, I used an 1/8" drill bit. That way I could knot ribbon or yarn and put a drop of glue in the hole and push the knot in to secure it to hang my bats. However, you may want to drill all the way through to the bottom so you can string several bats together. By doing this step before you scroll your piece out, you will greatly minimize the chance of breaking the bottom of the bat or tearing it out with the drill bit.
> 
> You are now ready to start cutting. For this piece, I used a #2 blade. I chose to start on the end point of the bat's wing. That way when I come to the end, I can come out of the piece right at the tip of the point and not leave a mark like when we had only smooth edges to deal with. Begin cutting from the tip of the wing, going along the bottom edge. (I am working in a clockwise direction again. It is my personal preference to cut in this direction. You can cut either clockwise or counter clockwise - whichever is more comfortable to you)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue cutting until you reach the end of the first section:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instead of turning to follow the line, begin turning the piece towards the waste area as you reach the tip of the wing, cutting very slightly into the waste area. This will be a pivot more than a cut. Once you begin pivoting the piece, very slightly lean the piece towards you so that the back of the blade is touching the wood, not the front cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the piece completely around so that you have tiny pocket in the waste area so that you can realign the blade to the line. Continue to cut along the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a short video here which will hopefully better illustrate this process. At the end of the video, when I was demonstrating the direction of the turn on the bat's ear, I said in error to turn in a *clockwise direction*. I meant in a *counter clockwise direction*, or toward the waste area. I think that an easier way to remember is to always turn towards the waste area when cutting points and outside corners like this. It is much easier than figuring clockwise and counter clockwise while you are cutting.
> 
> Below is the first video which illustrates the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will show you a video of the actual cutting. When you are practicing, I would suggest that you choose a larger piece of wood so that you have a bit more to hold on to. Although you need to follow the dotted lines at the top and the bottom of the bat if you are drilling, you can cut it on a wider piece and it will give you more waste area to hold and feel more comfortable for you.
> 
> You may also wish to use a thinner piece of wood to start out. I used a 5/8" piece of wood, but you may want to try 1/2". I also used poplar, which is a softer wood and I would suggest something like that or basswood to begin with. Something with an even grain works best. Of course you can use maple or other harder woods, but I would suggest you keep your pieces to about 3/8" or so until you are more comfortable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope these help you understand how I do sharp outside corners. Please feel free to ask me questions here on the forum. Chances are if you have questions, others may also be wondering the same thing. Maybe try a couple of practice pieces and then let me know what you think. I hope that I explained everything in a manner that you all can understand. I will be happy to clarify anything that I missed.
> 
> Remember too that it may take a little time to become comfortable with these techniques. I didn't learn them over night and I don't expect you will either. The main thing is to relax and have fun with them and pretty soon you won't even have to think about what you are doing.
> 
> I hope you enjoyed this lesson and learned something too. Thanks for reading.


Sheila very well done explaining ,

I know it hard trying to explaining things that you do natural after doing them so many times . Like Sheila said , Practice after awhile it will come natural . Trust me you will know if your not doing it right . Because you will get some chatter (board bouncing like a rubber ball) an scare the sawdust out of ya.
Keep up the good work


----------



## LittlePaw

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Sharp (Acute) Outside Corners*
> 
> By now most of you should have a bit of a feel for cutting some nice outside curves on the scroll saw. As we know however, most designs also consist of some nice sharp angles. Making accurate corners can be a bit of a challenge when you are new to scroll sawing, but with a few quick tips and a little bit of practice, you will find it is not as difficult as you may have imagined. Before long you will be scrolling those angles with little effort or thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In order for me to show you some ideas I have on scroll sawing outside corners, I drew up a practice pattern by using and modifying part of the design from my Gothic Bats Candle Tray and Charms Set.
> 
> Since the bats in this design have many pointed areas, I thought they would be perfect for you to practice this technique on. I am also going to demonstrate how you can drill holes in the tops of them for hanging as ornaments or a garland. This technique can be used on many other types of projects and shapes and is very simple to do.
> 
> I have given you a couple of sizes of bats to practice on, so that you can try them with different thicknesses of wood and different blade sizes and it will give you a feel for this technique. You can download the pattern here at my Google Docs and print it out for yourself. Use the patterns for any personal use you wish. You can even cut out several for your kids to paint and play with.
> 
> Let's start with applying the pattern. Below is a quick review.
> 
> Start by applying some blue painter's tape to your piece of wood. For my sample piece, I used a piece of poplar that was just over 5/8" thick. (You may find it a little easier to use a piece of wood that is slightly thinner, like 3/8" - 1/2" when you are starting out.) You are going to line up the bottom dotted lines of the bat pattern on the straight or milled edge of your wood if you are planning on drilling a hole in the top o the bat to hang.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next apply temporary adhesive to the backs of the patterns pieces. Wait a couple of seconds until they are sticky and apply them to the wood, right over the top of the blue tape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you plan to drill a hole in the top of the bat, now is the time to do so. First, mark the center of the piece of wood with a pencil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then place the piece on your drill press and line up the bit with the vertical dotted line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole into the center of the piece at the depth you desire. You can drill just a quarter inch or so deep so that you can attach a hanger, or you can drill all the way through to the bottom to create a garland. As long as you have flat edges at the top and the bottom, it is a fairly easy procedure to do.
> 
> For our purposes here, I used an 1/8" drill bit. That way I could knot ribbon or yarn and put a drop of glue in the hole and push the knot in to secure it to hang my bats. However, you may want to drill all the way through to the bottom so you can string several bats together. By doing this step before you scroll your piece out, you will greatly minimize the chance of breaking the bottom of the bat or tearing it out with the drill bit.
> 
> You are now ready to start cutting. For this piece, I used a #2 blade. I chose to start on the end point of the bat's wing. That way when I come to the end, I can come out of the piece right at the tip of the point and not leave a mark like when we had only smooth edges to deal with. Begin cutting from the tip of the wing, going along the bottom edge. (I am working in a clockwise direction again. It is my personal preference to cut in this direction. You can cut either clockwise or counter clockwise - whichever is more comfortable to you)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue cutting until you reach the end of the first section:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instead of turning to follow the line, begin turning the piece towards the waste area as you reach the tip of the wing, cutting very slightly into the waste area. This will be a pivot more than a cut. Once you begin pivoting the piece, very slightly lean the piece towards you so that the back of the blade is touching the wood, not the front cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the piece completely around so that you have tiny pocket in the waste area so that you can realign the blade to the line. Continue to cut along the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a short video here which will hopefully better illustrate this process. At the end of the video, when I was demonstrating the direction of the turn on the bat's ear, I said in error to turn in a *clockwise direction*. I meant in a *counter clockwise direction*, or toward the waste area. I think that an easier way to remember is to always turn towards the waste area when cutting points and outside corners like this. It is much easier than figuring clockwise and counter clockwise while you are cutting.
> 
> Below is the first video which illustrates the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will show you a video of the actual cutting. When you are practicing, I would suggest that you choose a larger piece of wood so that you have a bit more to hold on to. Although you need to follow the dotted lines at the top and the bottom of the bat if you are drilling, you can cut it on a wider piece and it will give you more waste area to hold and feel more comfortable for you.
> 
> You may also wish to use a thinner piece of wood to start out. I used a 5/8" piece of wood, but you may want to try 1/2". I also used poplar, which is a softer wood and I would suggest something like that or basswood to begin with. Something with an even grain works best. Of course you can use maple or other harder woods, but I would suggest you keep your pieces to about 3/8" or so until you are more comfortable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope these help you understand how I do sharp outside corners. Please feel free to ask me questions here on the forum. Chances are if you have questions, others may also be wondering the same thing. Maybe try a couple of practice pieces and then let me know what you think. I hope that I explained everything in a manner that you all can understand. I will be happy to clarify anything that I missed.
> 
> Remember too that it may take a little time to become comfortable with these techniques. I didn't learn them over night and I don't expect you will either. The main thing is to relax and have fun with them and pretty soon you won't even have to think about what you are doing.
> 
> I hope you enjoyed this lesson and learned something too. Thanks for reading.


That was very interesting, Sheila. Now I can cut sharp corners instead rounded ones. Thanx!


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Sharp (Acute) Outside Corners*
> 
> By now most of you should have a bit of a feel for cutting some nice outside curves on the scroll saw. As we know however, most designs also consist of some nice sharp angles. Making accurate corners can be a bit of a challenge when you are new to scroll sawing, but with a few quick tips and a little bit of practice, you will find it is not as difficult as you may have imagined. Before long you will be scrolling those angles with little effort or thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In order for me to show you some ideas I have on scroll sawing outside corners, I drew up a practice pattern by using and modifying part of the design from my Gothic Bats Candle Tray and Charms Set.
> 
> Since the bats in this design have many pointed areas, I thought they would be perfect for you to practice this technique on. I am also going to demonstrate how you can drill holes in the tops of them for hanging as ornaments or a garland. This technique can be used on many other types of projects and shapes and is very simple to do.
> 
> I have given you a couple of sizes of bats to practice on, so that you can try them with different thicknesses of wood and different blade sizes and it will give you a feel for this technique. You can download the pattern here at my Google Docs and print it out for yourself. Use the patterns for any personal use you wish. You can even cut out several for your kids to paint and play with.
> 
> Let's start with applying the pattern. Below is a quick review.
> 
> Start by applying some blue painter's tape to your piece of wood. For my sample piece, I used a piece of poplar that was just over 5/8" thick. (You may find it a little easier to use a piece of wood that is slightly thinner, like 3/8" - 1/2" when you are starting out.) You are going to line up the bottom dotted lines of the bat pattern on the straight or milled edge of your wood if you are planning on drilling a hole in the top o the bat to hang.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next apply temporary adhesive to the backs of the patterns pieces. Wait a couple of seconds until they are sticky and apply them to the wood, right over the top of the blue tape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you plan to drill a hole in the top of the bat, now is the time to do so. First, mark the center of the piece of wood with a pencil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then place the piece on your drill press and line up the bit with the vertical dotted line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole into the center of the piece at the depth you desire. You can drill just a quarter inch or so deep so that you can attach a hanger, or you can drill all the way through to the bottom to create a garland. As long as you have flat edges at the top and the bottom, it is a fairly easy procedure to do.
> 
> For our purposes here, I used an 1/8" drill bit. That way I could knot ribbon or yarn and put a drop of glue in the hole and push the knot in to secure it to hang my bats. However, you may want to drill all the way through to the bottom so you can string several bats together. By doing this step before you scroll your piece out, you will greatly minimize the chance of breaking the bottom of the bat or tearing it out with the drill bit.
> 
> You are now ready to start cutting. For this piece, I used a #2 blade. I chose to start on the end point of the bat's wing. That way when I come to the end, I can come out of the piece right at the tip of the point and not leave a mark like when we had only smooth edges to deal with. Begin cutting from the tip of the wing, going along the bottom edge. (I am working in a clockwise direction again. It is my personal preference to cut in this direction. You can cut either clockwise or counter clockwise - whichever is more comfortable to you)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue cutting until you reach the end of the first section:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instead of turning to follow the line, begin turning the piece towards the waste area as you reach the tip of the wing, cutting very slightly into the waste area. This will be a pivot more than a cut. Once you begin pivoting the piece, very slightly lean the piece towards you so that the back of the blade is touching the wood, not the front cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the piece completely around so that you have tiny pocket in the waste area so that you can realign the blade to the line. Continue to cut along the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a short video here which will hopefully better illustrate this process. At the end of the video, when I was demonstrating the direction of the turn on the bat's ear, I said in error to turn in a *clockwise direction*. I meant in a *counter clockwise direction*, or toward the waste area. I think that an easier way to remember is to always turn towards the waste area when cutting points and outside corners like this. It is much easier than figuring clockwise and counter clockwise while you are cutting.
> 
> Below is the first video which illustrates the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will show you a video of the actual cutting. When you are practicing, I would suggest that you choose a larger piece of wood so that you have a bit more to hold on to. Although you need to follow the dotted lines at the top and the bottom of the bat if you are drilling, you can cut it on a wider piece and it will give you more waste area to hold and feel more comfortable for you.
> 
> You may also wish to use a thinner piece of wood to start out. I used a 5/8" piece of wood, but you may want to try 1/2". I also used poplar, which is a softer wood and I would suggest something like that or basswood to begin with. Something with an even grain works best. Of course you can use maple or other harder woods, but I would suggest you keep your pieces to about 3/8" or so until you are more comfortable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope these help you understand how I do sharp outside corners. Please feel free to ask me questions here on the forum. Chances are if you have questions, others may also be wondering the same thing. Maybe try a couple of practice pieces and then let me know what you think. I hope that I explained everything in a manner that you all can understand. I will be happy to clarify anything that I missed.
> 
> Remember too that it may take a little time to become comfortable with these techniques. I didn't learn them over night and I don't expect you will either. The main thing is to relax and have fun with them and pretty soon you won't even have to think about what you are doing.
> 
> I hope you enjoyed this lesson and learned something too. Thanks for reading.


Thank you to all of you. I hope you are all successful in trying this if you haven't done things this way before. Be sure to get back to me and let me know how it goes for you. If you have any questions, I am here and I will be happy to clarify things and help. 

Sheila


----------



## littlecope

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Sharp (Acute) Outside Corners*
> 
> By now most of you should have a bit of a feel for cutting some nice outside curves on the scroll saw. As we know however, most designs also consist of some nice sharp angles. Making accurate corners can be a bit of a challenge when you are new to scroll sawing, but with a few quick tips and a little bit of practice, you will find it is not as difficult as you may have imagined. Before long you will be scrolling those angles with little effort or thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In order for me to show you some ideas I have on scroll sawing outside corners, I drew up a practice pattern by using and modifying part of the design from my Gothic Bats Candle Tray and Charms Set.
> 
> Since the bats in this design have many pointed areas, I thought they would be perfect for you to practice this technique on. I am also going to demonstrate how you can drill holes in the tops of them for hanging as ornaments or a garland. This technique can be used on many other types of projects and shapes and is very simple to do.
> 
> I have given you a couple of sizes of bats to practice on, so that you can try them with different thicknesses of wood and different blade sizes and it will give you a feel for this technique. You can download the pattern here at my Google Docs and print it out for yourself. Use the patterns for any personal use you wish. You can even cut out several for your kids to paint and play with.
> 
> Let's start with applying the pattern. Below is a quick review.
> 
> Start by applying some blue painter's tape to your piece of wood. For my sample piece, I used a piece of poplar that was just over 5/8" thick. (You may find it a little easier to use a piece of wood that is slightly thinner, like 3/8" - 1/2" when you are starting out.) You are going to line up the bottom dotted lines of the bat pattern on the straight or milled edge of your wood if you are planning on drilling a hole in the top o the bat to hang.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next apply temporary adhesive to the backs of the patterns pieces. Wait a couple of seconds until they are sticky and apply them to the wood, right over the top of the blue tape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you plan to drill a hole in the top of the bat, now is the time to do so. First, mark the center of the piece of wood with a pencil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then place the piece on your drill press and line up the bit with the vertical dotted line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole into the center of the piece at the depth you desire. You can drill just a quarter inch or so deep so that you can attach a hanger, or you can drill all the way through to the bottom to create a garland. As long as you have flat edges at the top and the bottom, it is a fairly easy procedure to do.
> 
> For our purposes here, I used an 1/8" drill bit. That way I could knot ribbon or yarn and put a drop of glue in the hole and push the knot in to secure it to hang my bats. However, you may want to drill all the way through to the bottom so you can string several bats together. By doing this step before you scroll your piece out, you will greatly minimize the chance of breaking the bottom of the bat or tearing it out with the drill bit.
> 
> You are now ready to start cutting. For this piece, I used a #2 blade. I chose to start on the end point of the bat's wing. That way when I come to the end, I can come out of the piece right at the tip of the point and not leave a mark like when we had only smooth edges to deal with. Begin cutting from the tip of the wing, going along the bottom edge. (I am working in a clockwise direction again. It is my personal preference to cut in this direction. You can cut either clockwise or counter clockwise - whichever is more comfortable to you)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue cutting until you reach the end of the first section:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instead of turning to follow the line, begin turning the piece towards the waste area as you reach the tip of the wing, cutting very slightly into the waste area. This will be a pivot more than a cut. Once you begin pivoting the piece, very slightly lean the piece towards you so that the back of the blade is touching the wood, not the front cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the piece completely around so that you have tiny pocket in the waste area so that you can realign the blade to the line. Continue to cut along the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a short video here which will hopefully better illustrate this process. At the end of the video, when I was demonstrating the direction of the turn on the bat's ear, I said in error to turn in a *clockwise direction*. I meant in a *counter clockwise direction*, or toward the waste area. I think that an easier way to remember is to always turn towards the waste area when cutting points and outside corners like this. It is much easier than figuring clockwise and counter clockwise while you are cutting.
> 
> Below is the first video which illustrates the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will show you a video of the actual cutting. When you are practicing, I would suggest that you choose a larger piece of wood so that you have a bit more to hold on to. Although you need to follow the dotted lines at the top and the bottom of the bat if you are drilling, you can cut it on a wider piece and it will give you more waste area to hold and feel more comfortable for you.
> 
> You may also wish to use a thinner piece of wood to start out. I used a 5/8" piece of wood, but you may want to try 1/2". I also used poplar, which is a softer wood and I would suggest something like that or basswood to begin with. Something with an even grain works best. Of course you can use maple or other harder woods, but I would suggest you keep your pieces to about 3/8" or so until you are more comfortable.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=J2HhUR7jjHc
> 
> I hope these help you understand how I do sharp outside corners. Please feel free to ask me questions here on the forum. Chances are if you have questions, others may also be wondering the same thing. Maybe try a couple of practice pieces and then let me know what you think. I hope that I explained everything in a manner that you all can understand. I will be happy to clarify anything that I missed.
> 
> Remember too that it may take a little time to become comfortable with these techniques. I didn't learn them over night and I don't expect you will either. The main thing is to relax and have fun with them and pretty soon you won't even have to think about what you are doing.
> 
> I hope you enjoyed this lesson and learned something too. Thanks for reading.


Good Blog Sheila!!
I'm still following along… I had wanted to print out your patterns for the class, but my new security upgrade won't even allow me to… (I know, another excuse right!!)
I swear, the security has more control over the computer than I do…
I've never seen that before, the little turn-around waste cut, but I've never used thread-type blades.
Being a flat-blader I've always drilled holes at the tips of acute angles (or anyplace needed) to provide a place to reverse direction or for an access… It can get pretty hole-y at times, but it works…
I drew these little critters for Halloween about ten years ago and cut them the same way as the lettering… The beady eyes worked great for hanging them… Depending on which eye I thread through, it gives them a different tilt…


----------



## Maveric777

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Sharp (Acute) Outside Corners*
> 
> By now most of you should have a bit of a feel for cutting some nice outside curves on the scroll saw. As we know however, most designs also consist of some nice sharp angles. Making accurate corners can be a bit of a challenge when you are new to scroll sawing, but with a few quick tips and a little bit of practice, you will find it is not as difficult as you may have imagined. Before long you will be scrolling those angles with little effort or thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In order for me to show you some ideas I have on scroll sawing outside corners, I drew up a practice pattern by using and modifying part of the design from my Gothic Bats Candle Tray and Charms Set.
> 
> Since the bats in this design have many pointed areas, I thought they would be perfect for you to practice this technique on. I am also going to demonstrate how you can drill holes in the tops of them for hanging as ornaments or a garland. This technique can be used on many other types of projects and shapes and is very simple to do.
> 
> I have given you a couple of sizes of bats to practice on, so that you can try them with different thicknesses of wood and different blade sizes and it will give you a feel for this technique. You can download the pattern here at my Google Docs and print it out for yourself. Use the patterns for any personal use you wish. You can even cut out several for your kids to paint and play with.
> 
> Let's start with applying the pattern. Below is a quick review.
> 
> Start by applying some blue painter's tape to your piece of wood. For my sample piece, I used a piece of poplar that was just over 5/8" thick. (You may find it a little easier to use a piece of wood that is slightly thinner, like 3/8" - 1/2" when you are starting out.) You are going to line up the bottom dotted lines of the bat pattern on the straight or milled edge of your wood if you are planning on drilling a hole in the top o the bat to hang.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next apply temporary adhesive to the backs of the patterns pieces. Wait a couple of seconds until they are sticky and apply them to the wood, right over the top of the blue tape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you plan to drill a hole in the top of the bat, now is the time to do so. First, mark the center of the piece of wood with a pencil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then place the piece on your drill press and line up the bit with the vertical dotted line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole into the center of the piece at the depth you desire. You can drill just a quarter inch or so deep so that you can attach a hanger, or you can drill all the way through to the bottom to create a garland. As long as you have flat edges at the top and the bottom, it is a fairly easy procedure to do.
> 
> For our purposes here, I used an 1/8" drill bit. That way I could knot ribbon or yarn and put a drop of glue in the hole and push the knot in to secure it to hang my bats. However, you may want to drill all the way through to the bottom so you can string several bats together. By doing this step before you scroll your piece out, you will greatly minimize the chance of breaking the bottom of the bat or tearing it out with the drill bit.
> 
> You are now ready to start cutting. For this piece, I used a #2 blade. I chose to start on the end point of the bat's wing. That way when I come to the end, I can come out of the piece right at the tip of the point and not leave a mark like when we had only smooth edges to deal with. Begin cutting from the tip of the wing, going along the bottom edge. (I am working in a clockwise direction again. It is my personal preference to cut in this direction. You can cut either clockwise or counter clockwise - whichever is more comfortable to you)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue cutting until you reach the end of the first section:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instead of turning to follow the line, begin turning the piece towards the waste area as you reach the tip of the wing, cutting very slightly into the waste area. This will be a pivot more than a cut. Once you begin pivoting the piece, very slightly lean the piece towards you so that the back of the blade is touching the wood, not the front cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the piece completely around so that you have tiny pocket in the waste area so that you can realign the blade to the line. Continue to cut along the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a short video here which will hopefully better illustrate this process. At the end of the video, when I was demonstrating the direction of the turn on the bat's ear, I said in error to turn in a *clockwise direction*. I meant in a *counter clockwise direction*, or toward the waste area. I think that an easier way to remember is to always turn towards the waste area when cutting points and outside corners like this. It is much easier than figuring clockwise and counter clockwise while you are cutting.
> 
> Below is the first video which illustrates the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will show you a video of the actual cutting. When you are practicing, I would suggest that you choose a larger piece of wood so that you have a bit more to hold on to. Although you need to follow the dotted lines at the top and the bottom of the bat if you are drilling, you can cut it on a wider piece and it will give you more waste area to hold and feel more comfortable for you.
> 
> You may also wish to use a thinner piece of wood to start out. I used a 5/8" piece of wood, but you may want to try 1/2". I also used poplar, which is a softer wood and I would suggest something like that or basswood to begin with. Something with an even grain works best. Of course you can use maple or other harder woods, but I would suggest you keep your pieces to about 3/8" or so until you are more comfortable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope these help you understand how I do sharp outside corners. Please feel free to ask me questions here on the forum. Chances are if you have questions, others may also be wondering the same thing. Maybe try a couple of practice pieces and then let me know what you think. I hope that I explained everything in a manner that you all can understand. I will be happy to clarify anything that I missed.
> 
> Remember too that it may take a little time to become comfortable with these techniques. I didn't learn them over night and I don't expect you will either. The main thing is to relax and have fun with them and pretty soon you won't even have to think about what you are doing.
> 
> I hope you enjoyed this lesson and learned something too. Thanks for reading.


Well I feel flat out ashamed I just not got around to checking out one of your scroll saw lessons Sheila. Especially now after I took the time to sit down, check it out, and actually learned me something….lol.

I would of ever thought about doing to loop technique. Now I am going to have to go back and catch up from the beginning to see what all cool stuff I been missing out on.

Thanks for all your hard work Sheila…. Very much appreciated…..


----------



## CherieLee

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Sharp (Acute) Outside Corners*
> 
> By now most of you should have a bit of a feel for cutting some nice outside curves on the scroll saw. As we know however, most designs also consist of some nice sharp angles. Making accurate corners can be a bit of a challenge when you are new to scroll sawing, but with a few quick tips and a little bit of practice, you will find it is not as difficult as you may have imagined. Before long you will be scrolling those angles with little effort or thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In order for me to show you some ideas I have on scroll sawing outside corners, I drew up a practice pattern by using and modifying part of the design from my Gothic Bats Candle Tray and Charms Set.
> 
> Since the bats in this design have many pointed areas, I thought they would be perfect for you to practice this technique on. I am also going to demonstrate how you can drill holes in the tops of them for hanging as ornaments or a garland. This technique can be used on many other types of projects and shapes and is very simple to do.
> 
> I have given you a couple of sizes of bats to practice on, so that you can try them with different thicknesses of wood and different blade sizes and it will give you a feel for this technique. You can download the pattern here at my Google Docs and print it out for yourself. Use the patterns for any personal use you wish. You can even cut out several for your kids to paint and play with.
> 
> Let's start with applying the pattern. Below is a quick review.
> 
> Start by applying some blue painter's tape to your piece of wood. For my sample piece, I used a piece of poplar that was just over 5/8" thick. (You may find it a little easier to use a piece of wood that is slightly thinner, like 3/8" - 1/2" when you are starting out.) You are going to line up the bottom dotted lines of the bat pattern on the straight or milled edge of your wood if you are planning on drilling a hole in the top o the bat to hang.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next apply temporary adhesive to the backs of the patterns pieces. Wait a couple of seconds until they are sticky and apply them to the wood, right over the top of the blue tape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you plan to drill a hole in the top of the bat, now is the time to do so. First, mark the center of the piece of wood with a pencil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then place the piece on your drill press and line up the bit with the vertical dotted line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole into the center of the piece at the depth you desire. You can drill just a quarter inch or so deep so that you can attach a hanger, or you can drill all the way through to the bottom to create a garland. As long as you have flat edges at the top and the bottom, it is a fairly easy procedure to do.
> 
> For our purposes here, I used an 1/8" drill bit. That way I could knot ribbon or yarn and put a drop of glue in the hole and push the knot in to secure it to hang my bats. However, you may want to drill all the way through to the bottom so you can string several bats together. By doing this step before you scroll your piece out, you will greatly minimize the chance of breaking the bottom of the bat or tearing it out with the drill bit.
> 
> You are now ready to start cutting. For this piece, I used a #2 blade. I chose to start on the end point of the bat's wing. That way when I come to the end, I can come out of the piece right at the tip of the point and not leave a mark like when we had only smooth edges to deal with. Begin cutting from the tip of the wing, going along the bottom edge. (I am working in a clockwise direction again. It is my personal preference to cut in this direction. You can cut either clockwise or counter clockwise - whichever is more comfortable to you)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue cutting until you reach the end of the first section:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instead of turning to follow the line, begin turning the piece towards the waste area as you reach the tip of the wing, cutting very slightly into the waste area. This will be a pivot more than a cut. Once you begin pivoting the piece, very slightly lean the piece towards you so that the back of the blade is touching the wood, not the front cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the piece completely around so that you have tiny pocket in the waste area so that you can realign the blade to the line. Continue to cut along the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a short video here which will hopefully better illustrate this process. At the end of the video, when I was demonstrating the direction of the turn on the bat's ear, I said in error to turn in a *clockwise direction*. I meant in a *counter clockwise direction*, or toward the waste area. I think that an easier way to remember is to always turn towards the waste area when cutting points and outside corners like this. It is much easier than figuring clockwise and counter clockwise while you are cutting.
> 
> Below is the first video which illustrates the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will show you a video of the actual cutting. When you are practicing, I would suggest that you choose a larger piece of wood so that you have a bit more to hold on to. Although you need to follow the dotted lines at the top and the bottom of the bat if you are drilling, you can cut it on a wider piece and it will give you more waste area to hold and feel more comfortable for you.
> 
> You may also wish to use a thinner piece of wood to start out. I used a 5/8" piece of wood, but you may want to try 1/2". I also used poplar, which is a softer wood and I would suggest something like that or basswood to begin with. Something with an even grain works best. Of course you can use maple or other harder woods, but I would suggest you keep your pieces to about 3/8" or so until you are more comfortable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope these help you understand how I do sharp outside corners. Please feel free to ask me questions here on the forum. Chances are if you have questions, others may also be wondering the same thing. Maybe try a couple of practice pieces and then let me know what you think. I hope that I explained everything in a manner that you all can understand. I will be happy to clarify anything that I missed.
> 
> Remember too that it may take a little time to become comfortable with these techniques. I didn't learn them over night and I don't expect you will either. The main thing is to relax and have fun with them and pretty soon you won't even have to think about what you are doing.
> 
> I hope you enjoyed this lesson and learned something too. Thanks for reading.


I know i am behind on the lessons. I like Mike's idea of placing holes close to pivot points and all. I also try to do the same within my work. I have also realized that placing holes where you know you will not BREAK a piece off is handy. Remember the issue I had with one of your cross patterns a couple years ago? You talked me through that and now I use it on everything. I just have to make sure and study the pattern before I cut. 
Another term for what you are using on you pivot points which I learn at the Texas Scroll picnic in 2009 is call a "keyhole". This took me some practice, but I am getting there!
Keep on going girlie with the class. I will eventually get caught up…but you know what I have been doing. LOL


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Sharp (Acute) Outside Corners*
> 
> By now most of you should have a bit of a feel for cutting some nice outside curves on the scroll saw. As we know however, most designs also consist of some nice sharp angles. Making accurate corners can be a bit of a challenge when you are new to scroll sawing, but with a few quick tips and a little bit of practice, you will find it is not as difficult as you may have imagined. Before long you will be scrolling those angles with little effort or thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In order for me to show you some ideas I have on scroll sawing outside corners, I drew up a practice pattern by using and modifying part of the design from my Gothic Bats Candle Tray and Charms Set.
> 
> Since the bats in this design have many pointed areas, I thought they would be perfect for you to practice this technique on. I am also going to demonstrate how you can drill holes in the tops of them for hanging as ornaments or a garland. This technique can be used on many other types of projects and shapes and is very simple to do.
> 
> I have given you a couple of sizes of bats to practice on, so that you can try them with different thicknesses of wood and different blade sizes and it will give you a feel for this technique. You can download the pattern here at my Google Docs and print it out for yourself. Use the patterns for any personal use you wish. You can even cut out several for your kids to paint and play with.
> 
> Let's start with applying the pattern. Below is a quick review.
> 
> Start by applying some blue painter's tape to your piece of wood. For my sample piece, I used a piece of poplar that was just over 5/8" thick. (You may find it a little easier to use a piece of wood that is slightly thinner, like 3/8" - 1/2" when you are starting out.) You are going to line up the bottom dotted lines of the bat pattern on the straight or milled edge of your wood if you are planning on drilling a hole in the top o the bat to hang.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next apply temporary adhesive to the backs of the patterns pieces. Wait a couple of seconds until they are sticky and apply them to the wood, right over the top of the blue tape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you plan to drill a hole in the top of the bat, now is the time to do so. First, mark the center of the piece of wood with a pencil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then place the piece on your drill press and line up the bit with the vertical dotted line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole into the center of the piece at the depth you desire. You can drill just a quarter inch or so deep so that you can attach a hanger, or you can drill all the way through to the bottom to create a garland. As long as you have flat edges at the top and the bottom, it is a fairly easy procedure to do.
> 
> For our purposes here, I used an 1/8" drill bit. That way I could knot ribbon or yarn and put a drop of glue in the hole and push the knot in to secure it to hang my bats. However, you may want to drill all the way through to the bottom so you can string several bats together. By doing this step before you scroll your piece out, you will greatly minimize the chance of breaking the bottom of the bat or tearing it out with the drill bit.
> 
> You are now ready to start cutting. For this piece, I used a #2 blade. I chose to start on the end point of the bat's wing. That way when I come to the end, I can come out of the piece right at the tip of the point and not leave a mark like when we had only smooth edges to deal with. Begin cutting from the tip of the wing, going along the bottom edge. (I am working in a clockwise direction again. It is my personal preference to cut in this direction. You can cut either clockwise or counter clockwise - whichever is more comfortable to you)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue cutting until you reach the end of the first section:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instead of turning to follow the line, begin turning the piece towards the waste area as you reach the tip of the wing, cutting very slightly into the waste area. This will be a pivot more than a cut. Once you begin pivoting the piece, very slightly lean the piece towards you so that the back of the blade is touching the wood, not the front cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the piece completely around so that you have tiny pocket in the waste area so that you can realign the blade to the line. Continue to cut along the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a short video here which will hopefully better illustrate this process. At the end of the video, when I was demonstrating the direction of the turn on the bat's ear, I said in error to turn in a *clockwise direction*. I meant in a *counter clockwise direction*, or toward the waste area. I think that an easier way to remember is to always turn towards the waste area when cutting points and outside corners like this. It is much easier than figuring clockwise and counter clockwise while you are cutting.
> 
> Below is the first video which illustrates the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will show you a video of the actual cutting. When you are practicing, I would suggest that you choose a larger piece of wood so that you have a bit more to hold on to. Although you need to follow the dotted lines at the top and the bottom of the bat if you are drilling, you can cut it on a wider piece and it will give you more waste area to hold and feel more comfortable for you.
> 
> You may also wish to use a thinner piece of wood to start out. I used a 5/8" piece of wood, but you may want to try 1/2". I also used poplar, which is a softer wood and I would suggest something like that or basswood to begin with. Something with an even grain works best. Of course you can use maple or other harder woods, but I would suggest you keep your pieces to about 3/8" or so until you are more comfortable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope these help you understand how I do sharp outside corners. Please feel free to ask me questions here on the forum. Chances are if you have questions, others may also be wondering the same thing. Maybe try a couple of practice pieces and then let me know what you think. I hope that I explained everything in a manner that you all can understand. I will be happy to clarify anything that I missed.
> 
> Remember too that it may take a little time to become comfortable with these techniques. I didn't learn them over night and I don't expect you will either. The main thing is to relax and have fun with them and pretty soon you won't even have to think about what you are doing.
> 
> I hope you enjoyed this lesson and learned something too. Thanks for reading.


I'm a terrible student. I've fallen way behind already.
Great lesson Sheila. I don't know of a single thing I could add to this lesson that you haven't already covered. For sharp corners the trick I believe is practice, practice, practice. 
When I first started scrolling I though I would never get the hang of sharp corners. I did fair on anything forty five degrees or less. Sharper than that and I'd do so poorly that I was getting aggrevated. one day I just took a piece of wood and started practicing all day doing nothing but very sharp corners. I figured out with this little exercise in frustration the real key though. That key was to just relax and enjoy it. I was trying to put too much effort into it. When I learned to relax and just enjoy it, the sharp corners started coming naturally to me.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Sharp (Acute) Outside Corners*
> 
> By now most of you should have a bit of a feel for cutting some nice outside curves on the scroll saw. As we know however, most designs also consist of some nice sharp angles. Making accurate corners can be a bit of a challenge when you are new to scroll sawing, but with a few quick tips and a little bit of practice, you will find it is not as difficult as you may have imagined. Before long you will be scrolling those angles with little effort or thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In order for me to show you some ideas I have on scroll sawing outside corners, I drew up a practice pattern by using and modifying part of the design from my Gothic Bats Candle Tray and Charms Set.
> 
> Since the bats in this design have many pointed areas, I thought they would be perfect for you to practice this technique on. I am also going to demonstrate how you can drill holes in the tops of them for hanging as ornaments or a garland. This technique can be used on many other types of projects and shapes and is very simple to do.
> 
> I have given you a couple of sizes of bats to practice on, so that you can try them with different thicknesses of wood and different blade sizes and it will give you a feel for this technique. You can download the pattern here at my Google Docs and print it out for yourself. Use the patterns for any personal use you wish. You can even cut out several for your kids to paint and play with.
> 
> Let's start with applying the pattern. Below is a quick review.
> 
> Start by applying some blue painter's tape to your piece of wood. For my sample piece, I used a piece of poplar that was just over 5/8" thick. (You may find it a little easier to use a piece of wood that is slightly thinner, like 3/8" - 1/2" when you are starting out.) You are going to line up the bottom dotted lines of the bat pattern on the straight or milled edge of your wood if you are planning on drilling a hole in the top o the bat to hang.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next apply temporary adhesive to the backs of the patterns pieces. Wait a couple of seconds until they are sticky and apply them to the wood, right over the top of the blue tape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you plan to drill a hole in the top of the bat, now is the time to do so. First, mark the center of the piece of wood with a pencil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then place the piece on your drill press and line up the bit with the vertical dotted line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole into the center of the piece at the depth you desire. You can drill just a quarter inch or so deep so that you can attach a hanger, or you can drill all the way through to the bottom to create a garland. As long as you have flat edges at the top and the bottom, it is a fairly easy procedure to do.
> 
> For our purposes here, I used an 1/8" drill bit. That way I could knot ribbon or yarn and put a drop of glue in the hole and push the knot in to secure it to hang my bats. However, you may want to drill all the way through to the bottom so you can string several bats together. By doing this step before you scroll your piece out, you will greatly minimize the chance of breaking the bottom of the bat or tearing it out with the drill bit.
> 
> You are now ready to start cutting. For this piece, I used a #2 blade. I chose to start on the end point of the bat's wing. That way when I come to the end, I can come out of the piece right at the tip of the point and not leave a mark like when we had only smooth edges to deal with. Begin cutting from the tip of the wing, going along the bottom edge. (I am working in a clockwise direction again. It is my personal preference to cut in this direction. You can cut either clockwise or counter clockwise - whichever is more comfortable to you)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue cutting until you reach the end of the first section:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instead of turning to follow the line, begin turning the piece towards the waste area as you reach the tip of the wing, cutting very slightly into the waste area. This will be a pivot more than a cut. Once you begin pivoting the piece, very slightly lean the piece towards you so that the back of the blade is touching the wood, not the front cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the piece completely around so that you have tiny pocket in the waste area so that you can realign the blade to the line. Continue to cut along the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a short video here which will hopefully better illustrate this process. At the end of the video, when I was demonstrating the direction of the turn on the bat's ear, I said in error to turn in a *clockwise direction*. I meant in a *counter clockwise direction*, or toward the waste area. I think that an easier way to remember is to always turn towards the waste area when cutting points and outside corners like this. It is much easier than figuring clockwise and counter clockwise while you are cutting.
> 
> Below is the first video which illustrates the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will show you a video of the actual cutting. When you are practicing, I would suggest that you choose a larger piece of wood so that you have a bit more to hold on to. Although you need to follow the dotted lines at the top and the bottom of the bat if you are drilling, you can cut it on a wider piece and it will give you more waste area to hold and feel more comfortable for you.
> 
> You may also wish to use a thinner piece of wood to start out. I used a 5/8" piece of wood, but you may want to try 1/2". I also used poplar, which is a softer wood and I would suggest something like that or basswood to begin with. Something with an even grain works best. Of course you can use maple or other harder woods, but I would suggest you keep your pieces to about 3/8" or so until you are more comfortable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope these help you understand how I do sharp outside corners. Please feel free to ask me questions here on the forum. Chances are if you have questions, others may also be wondering the same thing. Maybe try a couple of practice pieces and then let me know what you think. I hope that I explained everything in a manner that you all can understand. I will be happy to clarify anything that I missed.
> 
> Remember too that it may take a little time to become comfortable with these techniques. I didn't learn them over night and I don't expect you will either. The main thing is to relax and have fun with them and pretty soon you won't even have to think about what you are doing.
> 
> I hope you enjoyed this lesson and learned something too. Thanks for reading.


Thank you all for your input. Don't feel like you are falling behind. Remember that I said that there is no time frame here. You all just follow along as best as your schedules allow. I will always be here to answer questions and so will everyone else. It is summer time and I know it is hotter than heck at many of your shops and I don't expect people to be working when it is like that. This is to be fun, not stress. William is right in saying that the key is to relax and have a great time. I am sure it is hard to do that when you are sweating and saw dust is sticking to you!

Again - follow along as you get the time. Enjoy yourself. Most of all have FUN!

 Sheila


----------



## ShopTinker

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Sharp (Acute) Outside Corners*
> 
> By now most of you should have a bit of a feel for cutting some nice outside curves on the scroll saw. As we know however, most designs also consist of some nice sharp angles. Making accurate corners can be a bit of a challenge when you are new to scroll sawing, but with a few quick tips and a little bit of practice, you will find it is not as difficult as you may have imagined. Before long you will be scrolling those angles with little effort or thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In order for me to show you some ideas I have on scroll sawing outside corners, I drew up a practice pattern by using and modifying part of the design from my Gothic Bats Candle Tray and Charms Set.
> 
> Since the bats in this design have many pointed areas, I thought they would be perfect for you to practice this technique on. I am also going to demonstrate how you can drill holes in the tops of them for hanging as ornaments or a garland. This technique can be used on many other types of projects and shapes and is very simple to do.
> 
> I have given you a couple of sizes of bats to practice on, so that you can try them with different thicknesses of wood and different blade sizes and it will give you a feel for this technique. You can download the pattern here at my Google Docs and print it out for yourself. Use the patterns for any personal use you wish. You can even cut out several for your kids to paint and play with.
> 
> Let's start with applying the pattern. Below is a quick review.
> 
> Start by applying some blue painter's tape to your piece of wood. For my sample piece, I used a piece of poplar that was just over 5/8" thick. (You may find it a little easier to use a piece of wood that is slightly thinner, like 3/8" - 1/2" when you are starting out.) You are going to line up the bottom dotted lines of the bat pattern on the straight or milled edge of your wood if you are planning on drilling a hole in the top o the bat to hang.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next apply temporary adhesive to the backs of the patterns pieces. Wait a couple of seconds until they are sticky and apply them to the wood, right over the top of the blue tape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you plan to drill a hole in the top of the bat, now is the time to do so. First, mark the center of the piece of wood with a pencil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then place the piece on your drill press and line up the bit with the vertical dotted line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole into the center of the piece at the depth you desire. You can drill just a quarter inch or so deep so that you can attach a hanger, or you can drill all the way through to the bottom to create a garland. As long as you have flat edges at the top and the bottom, it is a fairly easy procedure to do.
> 
> For our purposes here, I used an 1/8" drill bit. That way I could knot ribbon or yarn and put a drop of glue in the hole and push the knot in to secure it to hang my bats. However, you may want to drill all the way through to the bottom so you can string several bats together. By doing this step before you scroll your piece out, you will greatly minimize the chance of breaking the bottom of the bat or tearing it out with the drill bit.
> 
> You are now ready to start cutting. For this piece, I used a #2 blade. I chose to start on the end point of the bat's wing. That way when I come to the end, I can come out of the piece right at the tip of the point and not leave a mark like when we had only smooth edges to deal with. Begin cutting from the tip of the wing, going along the bottom edge. (I am working in a clockwise direction again. It is my personal preference to cut in this direction. You can cut either clockwise or counter clockwise - whichever is more comfortable to you)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue cutting until you reach the end of the first section:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instead of turning to follow the line, begin turning the piece towards the waste area as you reach the tip of the wing, cutting very slightly into the waste area. This will be a pivot more than a cut. Once you begin pivoting the piece, very slightly lean the piece towards you so that the back of the blade is touching the wood, not the front cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the piece completely around so that you have tiny pocket in the waste area so that you can realign the blade to the line. Continue to cut along the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a short video here which will hopefully better illustrate this process. At the end of the video, when I was demonstrating the direction of the turn on the bat's ear, I said in error to turn in a *clockwise direction*. I meant in a *counter clockwise direction*, or toward the waste area. I think that an easier way to remember is to always turn towards the waste area when cutting points and outside corners like this. It is much easier than figuring clockwise and counter clockwise while you are cutting.
> 
> Below is the first video which illustrates the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will show you a video of the actual cutting. When you are practicing, I would suggest that you choose a larger piece of wood so that you have a bit more to hold on to. Although you need to follow the dotted lines at the top and the bottom of the bat if you are drilling, you can cut it on a wider piece and it will give you more waste area to hold and feel more comfortable for you.
> 
> You may also wish to use a thinner piece of wood to start out. I used a 5/8" piece of wood, but you may want to try 1/2". I also used poplar, which is a softer wood and I would suggest something like that or basswood to begin with. Something with an even grain works best. Of course you can use maple or other harder woods, but I would suggest you keep your pieces to about 3/8" or so until you are more comfortable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope these help you understand how I do sharp outside corners. Please feel free to ask me questions here on the forum. Chances are if you have questions, others may also be wondering the same thing. Maybe try a couple of practice pieces and then let me know what you think. I hope that I explained everything in a manner that you all can understand. I will be happy to clarify anything that I missed.
> 
> Remember too that it may take a little time to become comfortable with these techniques. I didn't learn them over night and I don't expect you will either. The main thing is to relax and have fun with them and pretty soon you won't even have to think about what you are doing.
> 
> I hope you enjoyed this lesson and learned something too. Thanks for reading.


Great lesson! The example with the red marker rely helped make it clear what you were doing. Nice bat by the way. I've never be able to draw anything symmetrical free hand. Thanks for putting this all together.


----------



## Blondewood

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Sharp (Acute) Outside Corners*
> 
> By now most of you should have a bit of a feel for cutting some nice outside curves on the scroll saw. As we know however, most designs also consist of some nice sharp angles. Making accurate corners can be a bit of a challenge when you are new to scroll sawing, but with a few quick tips and a little bit of practice, you will find it is not as difficult as you may have imagined. Before long you will be scrolling those angles with little effort or thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In order for me to show you some ideas I have on scroll sawing outside corners, I drew up a practice pattern by using and modifying part of the design from my Gothic Bats Candle Tray and Charms Set.
> 
> Since the bats in this design have many pointed areas, I thought they would be perfect for you to practice this technique on. I am also going to demonstrate how you can drill holes in the tops of them for hanging as ornaments or a garland. This technique can be used on many other types of projects and shapes and is very simple to do.
> 
> I have given you a couple of sizes of bats to practice on, so that you can try them with different thicknesses of wood and different blade sizes and it will give you a feel for this technique. You can download the pattern here at my Google Docs and print it out for yourself. Use the patterns for any personal use you wish. You can even cut out several for your kids to paint and play with.
> 
> Let's start with applying the pattern. Below is a quick review.
> 
> Start by applying some blue painter's tape to your piece of wood. For my sample piece, I used a piece of poplar that was just over 5/8" thick. (You may find it a little easier to use a piece of wood that is slightly thinner, like 3/8" - 1/2" when you are starting out.) You are going to line up the bottom dotted lines of the bat pattern on the straight or milled edge of your wood if you are planning on drilling a hole in the top o the bat to hang.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next apply temporary adhesive to the backs of the patterns pieces. Wait a couple of seconds until they are sticky and apply them to the wood, right over the top of the blue tape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you plan to drill a hole in the top of the bat, now is the time to do so. First, mark the center of the piece of wood with a pencil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then place the piece on your drill press and line up the bit with the vertical dotted line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole into the center of the piece at the depth you desire. You can drill just a quarter inch or so deep so that you can attach a hanger, or you can drill all the way through to the bottom to create a garland. As long as you have flat edges at the top and the bottom, it is a fairly easy procedure to do.
> 
> For our purposes here, I used an 1/8" drill bit. That way I could knot ribbon or yarn and put a drop of glue in the hole and push the knot in to secure it to hang my bats. However, you may want to drill all the way through to the bottom so you can string several bats together. By doing this step before you scroll your piece out, you will greatly minimize the chance of breaking the bottom of the bat or tearing it out with the drill bit.
> 
> You are now ready to start cutting. For this piece, I used a #2 blade. I chose to start on the end point of the bat's wing. That way when I come to the end, I can come out of the piece right at the tip of the point and not leave a mark like when we had only smooth edges to deal with. Begin cutting from the tip of the wing, going along the bottom edge. (I am working in a clockwise direction again. It is my personal preference to cut in this direction. You can cut either clockwise or counter clockwise - whichever is more comfortable to you)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue cutting until you reach the end of the first section:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instead of turning to follow the line, begin turning the piece towards the waste area as you reach the tip of the wing, cutting very slightly into the waste area. This will be a pivot more than a cut. Once you begin pivoting the piece, very slightly lean the piece towards you so that the back of the blade is touching the wood, not the front cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the piece completely around so that you have tiny pocket in the waste area so that you can realign the blade to the line. Continue to cut along the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a short video here which will hopefully better illustrate this process. At the end of the video, when I was demonstrating the direction of the turn on the bat's ear, I said in error to turn in a *clockwise direction*. I meant in a *counter clockwise direction*, or toward the waste area. I think that an easier way to remember is to always turn towards the waste area when cutting points and outside corners like this. It is much easier than figuring clockwise and counter clockwise while you are cutting.
> 
> Below is the first video which illustrates the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will show you a video of the actual cutting. When you are practicing, I would suggest that you choose a larger piece of wood so that you have a bit more to hold on to. Although you need to follow the dotted lines at the top and the bottom of the bat if you are drilling, you can cut it on a wider piece and it will give you more waste area to hold and feel more comfortable for you.
> 
> You may also wish to use a thinner piece of wood to start out. I used a 5/8" piece of wood, but you may want to try 1/2". I also used poplar, which is a softer wood and I would suggest something like that or basswood to begin with. Something with an even grain works best. Of course you can use maple or other harder woods, but I would suggest you keep your pieces to about 3/8" or so until you are more comfortable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope these help you understand how I do sharp outside corners. Please feel free to ask me questions here on the forum. Chances are if you have questions, others may also be wondering the same thing. Maybe try a couple of practice pieces and then let me know what you think. I hope that I explained everything in a manner that you all can understand. I will be happy to clarify anything that I missed.
> 
> Remember too that it may take a little time to become comfortable with these techniques. I didn't learn them over night and I don't expect you will either. The main thing is to relax and have fun with them and pretty soon you won't even have to think about what you are doing.
> 
> I hope you enjoyed this lesson and learned something too. Thanks for reading.


Hi Sheila,
Loving your classes. Thanks so much!

You mentioned somewhere on this site about your finishing technique. Was it linseed oil and then spray lacquer? How long for the oil to dry?

Pls excuse the bad memory.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Sharp (Acute) Outside Corners*
> 
> By now most of you should have a bit of a feel for cutting some nice outside curves on the scroll saw. As we know however, most designs also consist of some nice sharp angles. Making accurate corners can be a bit of a challenge when you are new to scroll sawing, but with a few quick tips and a little bit of practice, you will find it is not as difficult as you may have imagined. Before long you will be scrolling those angles with little effort or thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In order for me to show you some ideas I have on scroll sawing outside corners, I drew up a practice pattern by using and modifying part of the design from my Gothic Bats Candle Tray and Charms Set.
> 
> Since the bats in this design have many pointed areas, I thought they would be perfect for you to practice this technique on. I am also going to demonstrate how you can drill holes in the tops of them for hanging as ornaments or a garland. This technique can be used on many other types of projects and shapes and is very simple to do.
> 
> I have given you a couple of sizes of bats to practice on, so that you can try them with different thicknesses of wood and different blade sizes and it will give you a feel for this technique. You can download the pattern here at my Google Docs and print it out for yourself. Use the patterns for any personal use you wish. You can even cut out several for your kids to paint and play with.
> 
> Let's start with applying the pattern. Below is a quick review.
> 
> Start by applying some blue painter's tape to your piece of wood. For my sample piece, I used a piece of poplar that was just over 5/8" thick. (You may find it a little easier to use a piece of wood that is slightly thinner, like 3/8" - 1/2" when you are starting out.) You are going to line up the bottom dotted lines of the bat pattern on the straight or milled edge of your wood if you are planning on drilling a hole in the top o the bat to hang.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next apply temporary adhesive to the backs of the patterns pieces. Wait a couple of seconds until they are sticky and apply them to the wood, right over the top of the blue tape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you plan to drill a hole in the top of the bat, now is the time to do so. First, mark the center of the piece of wood with a pencil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then place the piece on your drill press and line up the bit with the vertical dotted line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole into the center of the piece at the depth you desire. You can drill just a quarter inch or so deep so that you can attach a hanger, or you can drill all the way through to the bottom to create a garland. As long as you have flat edges at the top and the bottom, it is a fairly easy procedure to do.
> 
> For our purposes here, I used an 1/8" drill bit. That way I could knot ribbon or yarn and put a drop of glue in the hole and push the knot in to secure it to hang my bats. However, you may want to drill all the way through to the bottom so you can string several bats together. By doing this step before you scroll your piece out, you will greatly minimize the chance of breaking the bottom of the bat or tearing it out with the drill bit.
> 
> You are now ready to start cutting. For this piece, I used a #2 blade. I chose to start on the end point of the bat's wing. That way when I come to the end, I can come out of the piece right at the tip of the point and not leave a mark like when we had only smooth edges to deal with. Begin cutting from the tip of the wing, going along the bottom edge. (I am working in a clockwise direction again. It is my personal preference to cut in this direction. You can cut either clockwise or counter clockwise - whichever is more comfortable to you)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue cutting until you reach the end of the first section:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instead of turning to follow the line, begin turning the piece towards the waste area as you reach the tip of the wing, cutting very slightly into the waste area. This will be a pivot more than a cut. Once you begin pivoting the piece, very slightly lean the piece towards you so that the back of the blade is touching the wood, not the front cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the piece completely around so that you have tiny pocket in the waste area so that you can realign the blade to the line. Continue to cut along the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a short video here which will hopefully better illustrate this process. At the end of the video, when I was demonstrating the direction of the turn on the bat's ear, I said in error to turn in a *clockwise direction*. I meant in a *counter clockwise direction*, or toward the waste area. I think that an easier way to remember is to always turn towards the waste area when cutting points and outside corners like this. It is much easier than figuring clockwise and counter clockwise while you are cutting.
> 
> Below is the first video which illustrates the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will show you a video of the actual cutting. When you are practicing, I would suggest that you choose a larger piece of wood so that you have a bit more to hold on to. Although you need to follow the dotted lines at the top and the bottom of the bat if you are drilling, you can cut it on a wider piece and it will give you more waste area to hold and feel more comfortable for you.
> 
> You may also wish to use a thinner piece of wood to start out. I used a 5/8" piece of wood, but you may want to try 1/2". I also used poplar, which is a softer wood and I would suggest something like that or basswood to begin with. Something with an even grain works best. Of course you can use maple or other harder woods, but I would suggest you keep your pieces to about 3/8" or so until you are more comfortable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope these help you understand how I do sharp outside corners. Please feel free to ask me questions here on the forum. Chances are if you have questions, others may also be wondering the same thing. Maybe try a couple of practice pieces and then let me know what you think. I hope that I explained everything in a manner that you all can understand. I will be happy to clarify anything that I missed.
> 
> Remember too that it may take a little time to become comfortable with these techniques. I didn't learn them over night and I don't expect you will either. The main thing is to relax and have fun with them and pretty soon you won't even have to think about what you are doing.
> 
> I hope you enjoyed this lesson and learned something too. Thanks for reading.


I am glad that the video clarified the process for you Dan. I kind of decided to do it last minute because it seemed that everything moved quickly on the saw and I didn't feel that I had the time to explain the process properly.

Hi, Vicki:
I use mineral oil (the kind you get in a drug store) and I just brush it on and let it sit for a bit (or dip smaller pieces with lots of holes into a small pan of it, such as a cake pan) I then allow the pieces to sit for a couple of hours on a wire rack and the oil gets absorbed into the piece. If there is lots of oil caught in the small fretwork holes, I blot the piece on folded paper towels first before allowing it to set. I then leave this anywhere from overnight to a couple of days and finish it with spray shellac. You can pretty much tell if the piece is dry enough because it isn't greasy to the touch. I have never had a problem with the shellac lifting and I have really grown to love this technique because of the simplicity and how beautiful the finish is.

Shellac is a great choice for scroll work and small pieces because they don't need a durable finish such as a table would, but it does offer protection and help keep the wood from drying out and possibly splitting. The oil is absorbed into the piece like a sponge and never really 'dries' completely, being oil. But it helps keep the piece moist and brings out some beautiful color in just about any wood. The shellac then seals in the oil.

I hope this helps you. I am sure there are many others who have other methods, but this is my favorite and quite easy and inexpensive too.

Let me know how you do! Sheila


----------



## Blondewood

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Sharp (Acute) Outside Corners*
> 
> By now most of you should have a bit of a feel for cutting some nice outside curves on the scroll saw. As we know however, most designs also consist of some nice sharp angles. Making accurate corners can be a bit of a challenge when you are new to scroll sawing, but with a few quick tips and a little bit of practice, you will find it is not as difficult as you may have imagined. Before long you will be scrolling those angles with little effort or thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In order for me to show you some ideas I have on scroll sawing outside corners, I drew up a practice pattern by using and modifying part of the design from my Gothic Bats Candle Tray and Charms Set.
> 
> Since the bats in this design have many pointed areas, I thought they would be perfect for you to practice this technique on. I am also going to demonstrate how you can drill holes in the tops of them for hanging as ornaments or a garland. This technique can be used on many other types of projects and shapes and is very simple to do.
> 
> I have given you a couple of sizes of bats to practice on, so that you can try them with different thicknesses of wood and different blade sizes and it will give you a feel for this technique. You can download the pattern here at my Google Docs and print it out for yourself. Use the patterns for any personal use you wish. You can even cut out several for your kids to paint and play with.
> 
> Let's start with applying the pattern. Below is a quick review.
> 
> Start by applying some blue painter's tape to your piece of wood. For my sample piece, I used a piece of poplar that was just over 5/8" thick. (You may find it a little easier to use a piece of wood that is slightly thinner, like 3/8" - 1/2" when you are starting out.) You are going to line up the bottom dotted lines of the bat pattern on the straight or milled edge of your wood if you are planning on drilling a hole in the top o the bat to hang.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next apply temporary adhesive to the backs of the patterns pieces. Wait a couple of seconds until they are sticky and apply them to the wood, right over the top of the blue tape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you plan to drill a hole in the top of the bat, now is the time to do so. First, mark the center of the piece of wood with a pencil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then place the piece on your drill press and line up the bit with the vertical dotted line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole into the center of the piece at the depth you desire. You can drill just a quarter inch or so deep so that you can attach a hanger, or you can drill all the way through to the bottom to create a garland. As long as you have flat edges at the top and the bottom, it is a fairly easy procedure to do.
> 
> For our purposes here, I used an 1/8" drill bit. That way I could knot ribbon or yarn and put a drop of glue in the hole and push the knot in to secure it to hang my bats. However, you may want to drill all the way through to the bottom so you can string several bats together. By doing this step before you scroll your piece out, you will greatly minimize the chance of breaking the bottom of the bat or tearing it out with the drill bit.
> 
> You are now ready to start cutting. For this piece, I used a #2 blade. I chose to start on the end point of the bat's wing. That way when I come to the end, I can come out of the piece right at the tip of the point and not leave a mark like when we had only smooth edges to deal with. Begin cutting from the tip of the wing, going along the bottom edge. (I am working in a clockwise direction again. It is my personal preference to cut in this direction. You can cut either clockwise or counter clockwise - whichever is more comfortable to you)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue cutting until you reach the end of the first section:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instead of turning to follow the line, begin turning the piece towards the waste area as you reach the tip of the wing, cutting very slightly into the waste area. This will be a pivot more than a cut. Once you begin pivoting the piece, very slightly lean the piece towards you so that the back of the blade is touching the wood, not the front cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the piece completely around so that you have tiny pocket in the waste area so that you can realign the blade to the line. Continue to cut along the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a short video here which will hopefully better illustrate this process. At the end of the video, when I was demonstrating the direction of the turn on the bat's ear, I said in error to turn in a *clockwise direction*. I meant in a *counter clockwise direction*, or toward the waste area. I think that an easier way to remember is to always turn towards the waste area when cutting points and outside corners like this. It is much easier than figuring clockwise and counter clockwise while you are cutting.
> 
> Below is the first video which illustrates the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will show you a video of the actual cutting. When you are practicing, I would suggest that you choose a larger piece of wood so that you have a bit more to hold on to. Although you need to follow the dotted lines at the top and the bottom of the bat if you are drilling, you can cut it on a wider piece and it will give you more waste area to hold and feel more comfortable for you.
> 
> You may also wish to use a thinner piece of wood to start out. I used a 5/8" piece of wood, but you may want to try 1/2". I also used poplar, which is a softer wood and I would suggest something like that or basswood to begin with. Something with an even grain works best. Of course you can use maple or other harder woods, but I would suggest you keep your pieces to about 3/8" or so until you are more comfortable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope these help you understand how I do sharp outside corners. Please feel free to ask me questions here on the forum. Chances are if you have questions, others may also be wondering the same thing. Maybe try a couple of practice pieces and then let me know what you think. I hope that I explained everything in a manner that you all can understand. I will be happy to clarify anything that I missed.
> 
> Remember too that it may take a little time to become comfortable with these techniques. I didn't learn them over night and I don't expect you will either. The main thing is to relax and have fun with them and pretty soon you won't even have to think about what you are doing.
> 
> I hope you enjoyed this lesson and learned something too. Thanks for reading.


Hi Sheila,
Thank you soooooo much for repeating this. I saved to my HD just now. lol I'll let you know how it worked for me. I'm doing a bunch of items for a bazzar and I'll post some pics when they are done.
Vicki


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Sharp (Acute) Outside Corners*
> 
> By now most of you should have a bit of a feel for cutting some nice outside curves on the scroll saw. As we know however, most designs also consist of some nice sharp angles. Making accurate corners can be a bit of a challenge when you are new to scroll sawing, but with a few quick tips and a little bit of practice, you will find it is not as difficult as you may have imagined. Before long you will be scrolling those angles with little effort or thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In order for me to show you some ideas I have on scroll sawing outside corners, I drew up a practice pattern by using and modifying part of the design from my Gothic Bats Candle Tray and Charms Set.
> 
> Since the bats in this design have many pointed areas, I thought they would be perfect for you to practice this technique on. I am also going to demonstrate how you can drill holes in the tops of them for hanging as ornaments or a garland. This technique can be used on many other types of projects and shapes and is very simple to do.
> 
> I have given you a couple of sizes of bats to practice on, so that you can try them with different thicknesses of wood and different blade sizes and it will give you a feel for this technique. You can download the pattern here at my Google Docs and print it out for yourself. Use the patterns for any personal use you wish. You can even cut out several for your kids to paint and play with.
> 
> Let's start with applying the pattern. Below is a quick review.
> 
> Start by applying some blue painter's tape to your piece of wood. For my sample piece, I used a piece of poplar that was just over 5/8" thick. (You may find it a little easier to use a piece of wood that is slightly thinner, like 3/8" - 1/2" when you are starting out.) You are going to line up the bottom dotted lines of the bat pattern on the straight or milled edge of your wood if you are planning on drilling a hole in the top o the bat to hang.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next apply temporary adhesive to the backs of the patterns pieces. Wait a couple of seconds until they are sticky and apply them to the wood, right over the top of the blue tape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you plan to drill a hole in the top of the bat, now is the time to do so. First, mark the center of the piece of wood with a pencil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then place the piece on your drill press and line up the bit with the vertical dotted line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole into the center of the piece at the depth you desire. You can drill just a quarter inch or so deep so that you can attach a hanger, or you can drill all the way through to the bottom to create a garland. As long as you have flat edges at the top and the bottom, it is a fairly easy procedure to do.
> 
> For our purposes here, I used an 1/8" drill bit. That way I could knot ribbon or yarn and put a drop of glue in the hole and push the knot in to secure it to hang my bats. However, you may want to drill all the way through to the bottom so you can string several bats together. By doing this step before you scroll your piece out, you will greatly minimize the chance of breaking the bottom of the bat or tearing it out with the drill bit.
> 
> You are now ready to start cutting. For this piece, I used a #2 blade. I chose to start on the end point of the bat's wing. That way when I come to the end, I can come out of the piece right at the tip of the point and not leave a mark like when we had only smooth edges to deal with. Begin cutting from the tip of the wing, going along the bottom edge. (I am working in a clockwise direction again. It is my personal preference to cut in this direction. You can cut either clockwise or counter clockwise - whichever is more comfortable to you)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue cutting until you reach the end of the first section:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instead of turning to follow the line, begin turning the piece towards the waste area as you reach the tip of the wing, cutting very slightly into the waste area. This will be a pivot more than a cut. Once you begin pivoting the piece, very slightly lean the piece towards you so that the back of the blade is touching the wood, not the front cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the piece completely around so that you have tiny pocket in the waste area so that you can realign the blade to the line. Continue to cut along the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a short video here which will hopefully better illustrate this process. At the end of the video, when I was demonstrating the direction of the turn on the bat's ear, I said in error to turn in a *clockwise direction*. I meant in a *counter clockwise direction*, or toward the waste area. I think that an easier way to remember is to always turn towards the waste area when cutting points and outside corners like this. It is much easier than figuring clockwise and counter clockwise while you are cutting.
> 
> Below is the first video which illustrates the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will show you a video of the actual cutting. When you are practicing, I would suggest that you choose a larger piece of wood so that you have a bit more to hold on to. Although you need to follow the dotted lines at the top and the bottom of the bat if you are drilling, you can cut it on a wider piece and it will give you more waste area to hold and feel more comfortable for you.
> 
> You may also wish to use a thinner piece of wood to start out. I used a 5/8" piece of wood, but you may want to try 1/2". I also used poplar, which is a softer wood and I would suggest something like that or basswood to begin with. Something with an even grain works best. Of course you can use maple or other harder woods, but I would suggest you keep your pieces to about 3/8" or so until you are more comfortable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope these help you understand how I do sharp outside corners. Please feel free to ask me questions here on the forum. Chances are if you have questions, others may also be wondering the same thing. Maybe try a couple of practice pieces and then let me know what you think. I hope that I explained everything in a manner that you all can understand. I will be happy to clarify anything that I missed.
> 
> Remember too that it may take a little time to become comfortable with these techniques. I didn't learn them over night and I don't expect you will either. The main thing is to relax and have fun with them and pretty soon you won't even have to think about what you are doing.
> 
> I hope you enjoyed this lesson and learned something too. Thanks for reading.


No problem, Vicki! You can ask me anything. I know that there is a lot of information to go through and it usually will be quicker for you to ask directly.

Take pictures and send some! 

Sheila


----------



## Kentuk55

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Sharp (Acute) Outside Corners*
> 
> By now most of you should have a bit of a feel for cutting some nice outside curves on the scroll saw. As we know however, most designs also consist of some nice sharp angles. Making accurate corners can be a bit of a challenge when you are new to scroll sawing, but with a few quick tips and a little bit of practice, you will find it is not as difficult as you may have imagined. Before long you will be scrolling those angles with little effort or thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In order for me to show you some ideas I have on scroll sawing outside corners, I drew up a practice pattern by using and modifying part of the design from my Gothic Bats Candle Tray and Charms Set.
> 
> Since the bats in this design have many pointed areas, I thought they would be perfect for you to practice this technique on. I am also going to demonstrate how you can drill holes in the tops of them for hanging as ornaments or a garland. This technique can be used on many other types of projects and shapes and is very simple to do.
> 
> I have given you a couple of sizes of bats to practice on, so that you can try them with different thicknesses of wood and different blade sizes and it will give you a feel for this technique. You can download the pattern here at my Google Docs and print it out for yourself. Use the patterns for any personal use you wish. You can even cut out several for your kids to paint and play with.
> 
> Let's start with applying the pattern. Below is a quick review.
> 
> Start by applying some blue painter's tape to your piece of wood. For my sample piece, I used a piece of poplar that was just over 5/8" thick. (You may find it a little easier to use a piece of wood that is slightly thinner, like 3/8" - 1/2" when you are starting out.) You are going to line up the bottom dotted lines of the bat pattern on the straight or milled edge of your wood if you are planning on drilling a hole in the top o the bat to hang.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next apply temporary adhesive to the backs of the patterns pieces. Wait a couple of seconds until they are sticky and apply them to the wood, right over the top of the blue tape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you plan to drill a hole in the top of the bat, now is the time to do so. First, mark the center of the piece of wood with a pencil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then place the piece on your drill press and line up the bit with the vertical dotted line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole into the center of the piece at the depth you desire. You can drill just a quarter inch or so deep so that you can attach a hanger, or you can drill all the way through to the bottom to create a garland. As long as you have flat edges at the top and the bottom, it is a fairly easy procedure to do.
> 
> For our purposes here, I used an 1/8" drill bit. That way I could knot ribbon or yarn and put a drop of glue in the hole and push the knot in to secure it to hang my bats. However, you may want to drill all the way through to the bottom so you can string several bats together. By doing this step before you scroll your piece out, you will greatly minimize the chance of breaking the bottom of the bat or tearing it out with the drill bit.
> 
> You are now ready to start cutting. For this piece, I used a #2 blade. I chose to start on the end point of the bat's wing. That way when I come to the end, I can come out of the piece right at the tip of the point and not leave a mark like when we had only smooth edges to deal with. Begin cutting from the tip of the wing, going along the bottom edge. (I am working in a clockwise direction again. It is my personal preference to cut in this direction. You can cut either clockwise or counter clockwise - whichever is more comfortable to you)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue cutting until you reach the end of the first section:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instead of turning to follow the line, begin turning the piece towards the waste area as you reach the tip of the wing, cutting very slightly into the waste area. This will be a pivot more than a cut. Once you begin pivoting the piece, very slightly lean the piece towards you so that the back of the blade is touching the wood, not the front cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the piece completely around so that you have tiny pocket in the waste area so that you can realign the blade to the line. Continue to cut along the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a short video here which will hopefully better illustrate this process. At the end of the video, when I was demonstrating the direction of the turn on the bat's ear, I said in error to turn in a *clockwise direction*. I meant in a *counter clockwise direction*, or toward the waste area. I think that an easier way to remember is to always turn towards the waste area when cutting points and outside corners like this. It is much easier than figuring clockwise and counter clockwise while you are cutting.
> 
> Below is the first video which illustrates the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will show you a video of the actual cutting. When you are practicing, I would suggest that you choose a larger piece of wood so that you have a bit more to hold on to. Although you need to follow the dotted lines at the top and the bottom of the bat if you are drilling, you can cut it on a wider piece and it will give you more waste area to hold and feel more comfortable for you.
> 
> You may also wish to use a thinner piece of wood to start out. I used a 5/8" piece of wood, but you may want to try 1/2". I also used poplar, which is a softer wood and I would suggest something like that or basswood to begin with. Something with an even grain works best. Of course you can use maple or other harder woods, but I would suggest you keep your pieces to about 3/8" or so until you are more comfortable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope these help you understand how I do sharp outside corners. Please feel free to ask me questions here on the forum. Chances are if you have questions, others may also be wondering the same thing. Maybe try a couple of practice pieces and then let me know what you think. I hope that I explained everything in a manner that you all can understand. I will be happy to clarify anything that I missed.
> 
> Remember too that it may take a little time to become comfortable with these techniques. I didn't learn them over night and I don't expect you will either. The main thing is to relax and have fun with them and pretty soon you won't even have to think about what you are doing.
> 
> I hope you enjoyed this lesson and learned something too. Thanks for reading.


great blog, and yer a great teach. Guess I need ta see the truancy ossifer.. lol 
I just now checked in to see what I've been missin, which is a lot I see. That's ok, I'll go back through it when I git the time. Carry on, and careful with them fingers.  really great videos and talk-threws


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Sharp (Acute) Outside Corners*
> 
> By now most of you should have a bit of a feel for cutting some nice outside curves on the scroll saw. As we know however, most designs also consist of some nice sharp angles. Making accurate corners can be a bit of a challenge when you are new to scroll sawing, but with a few quick tips and a little bit of practice, you will find it is not as difficult as you may have imagined. Before long you will be scrolling those angles with little effort or thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In order for me to show you some ideas I have on scroll sawing outside corners, I drew up a practice pattern by using and modifying part of the design from my Gothic Bats Candle Tray and Charms Set.
> 
> Since the bats in this design have many pointed areas, I thought they would be perfect for you to practice this technique on. I am also going to demonstrate how you can drill holes in the tops of them for hanging as ornaments or a garland. This technique can be used on many other types of projects and shapes and is very simple to do.
> 
> I have given you a couple of sizes of bats to practice on, so that you can try them with different thicknesses of wood and different blade sizes and it will give you a feel for this technique. You can download the pattern here at my Google Docs and print it out for yourself. Use the patterns for any personal use you wish. You can even cut out several for your kids to paint and play with.
> 
> Let's start with applying the pattern. Below is a quick review.
> 
> Start by applying some blue painter's tape to your piece of wood. For my sample piece, I used a piece of poplar that was just over 5/8" thick. (You may find it a little easier to use a piece of wood that is slightly thinner, like 3/8" - 1/2" when you are starting out.) You are going to line up the bottom dotted lines of the bat pattern on the straight or milled edge of your wood if you are planning on drilling a hole in the top o the bat to hang.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next apply temporary adhesive to the backs of the patterns pieces. Wait a couple of seconds until they are sticky and apply them to the wood, right over the top of the blue tape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you plan to drill a hole in the top of the bat, now is the time to do so. First, mark the center of the piece of wood with a pencil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then place the piece on your drill press and line up the bit with the vertical dotted line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole into the center of the piece at the depth you desire. You can drill just a quarter inch or so deep so that you can attach a hanger, or you can drill all the way through to the bottom to create a garland. As long as you have flat edges at the top and the bottom, it is a fairly easy procedure to do.
> 
> For our purposes here, I used an 1/8" drill bit. That way I could knot ribbon or yarn and put a drop of glue in the hole and push the knot in to secure it to hang my bats. However, you may want to drill all the way through to the bottom so you can string several bats together. By doing this step before you scroll your piece out, you will greatly minimize the chance of breaking the bottom of the bat or tearing it out with the drill bit.
> 
> You are now ready to start cutting. For this piece, I used a #2 blade. I chose to start on the end point of the bat's wing. That way when I come to the end, I can come out of the piece right at the tip of the point and not leave a mark like when we had only smooth edges to deal with. Begin cutting from the tip of the wing, going along the bottom edge. (I am working in a clockwise direction again. It is my personal preference to cut in this direction. You can cut either clockwise or counter clockwise - whichever is more comfortable to you)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue cutting until you reach the end of the first section:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instead of turning to follow the line, begin turning the piece towards the waste area as you reach the tip of the wing, cutting very slightly into the waste area. This will be a pivot more than a cut. Once you begin pivoting the piece, very slightly lean the piece towards you so that the back of the blade is touching the wood, not the front cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the piece completely around so that you have tiny pocket in the waste area so that you can realign the blade to the line. Continue to cut along the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a short video here which will hopefully better illustrate this process. At the end of the video, when I was demonstrating the direction of the turn on the bat's ear, I said in error to turn in a *clockwise direction*. I meant in a *counter clockwise direction*, or toward the waste area. I think that an easier way to remember is to always turn towards the waste area when cutting points and outside corners like this. It is much easier than figuring clockwise and counter clockwise while you are cutting.
> 
> Below is the first video which illustrates the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will show you a video of the actual cutting. When you are practicing, I would suggest that you choose a larger piece of wood so that you have a bit more to hold on to. Although you need to follow the dotted lines at the top and the bottom of the bat if you are drilling, you can cut it on a wider piece and it will give you more waste area to hold and feel more comfortable for you.
> 
> You may also wish to use a thinner piece of wood to start out. I used a 5/8" piece of wood, but you may want to try 1/2". I also used poplar, which is a softer wood and I would suggest something like that or basswood to begin with. Something with an even grain works best. Of course you can use maple or other harder woods, but I would suggest you keep your pieces to about 3/8" or so until you are more comfortable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope these help you understand how I do sharp outside corners. Please feel free to ask me questions here on the forum. Chances are if you have questions, others may also be wondering the same thing. Maybe try a couple of practice pieces and then let me know what you think. I hope that I explained everything in a manner that you all can understand. I will be happy to clarify anything that I missed.
> 
> Remember too that it may take a little time to become comfortable with these techniques. I didn't learn them over night and I don't expect you will either. The main thing is to relax and have fun with them and pretty soon you won't even have to think about what you are doing.
> 
> I hope you enjoyed this lesson and learned something too. Thanks for reading.


Hi, Roger! I am glad you are getting something out of the classes. I will probably have the next lesson up by next weekend. This week was hectic for me and I have some other things going on so I didn't post this week. It seems that there are lots like you that are checking in when they can and that is OK. Keep checking and we will keep moving ahead. I still have a few things that I want to share with everyone. 

Sheila


----------



## Swede

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Sharp (Acute) Outside Corners*
> 
> By now most of you should have a bit of a feel for cutting some nice outside curves on the scroll saw. As we know however, most designs also consist of some nice sharp angles. Making accurate corners can be a bit of a challenge when you are new to scroll sawing, but with a few quick tips and a little bit of practice, you will find it is not as difficult as you may have imagined. Before long you will be scrolling those angles with little effort or thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In order for me to show you some ideas I have on scroll sawing outside corners, I drew up a practice pattern by using and modifying part of the design from my Gothic Bats Candle Tray and Charms Set.
> 
> Since the bats in this design have many pointed areas, I thought they would be perfect for you to practice this technique on. I am also going to demonstrate how you can drill holes in the tops of them for hanging as ornaments or a garland. This technique can be used on many other types of projects and shapes and is very simple to do.
> 
> I have given you a couple of sizes of bats to practice on, so that you can try them with different thicknesses of wood and different blade sizes and it will give you a feel for this technique. You can download the pattern here at my Google Docs and print it out for yourself. Use the patterns for any personal use you wish. You can even cut out several for your kids to paint and play with.
> 
> Let's start with applying the pattern. Below is a quick review.
> 
> Start by applying some blue painter's tape to your piece of wood. For my sample piece, I used a piece of poplar that was just over 5/8" thick. (You may find it a little easier to use a piece of wood that is slightly thinner, like 3/8" - 1/2" when you are starting out.) You are going to line up the bottom dotted lines of the bat pattern on the straight or milled edge of your wood if you are planning on drilling a hole in the top o the bat to hang.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next apply temporary adhesive to the backs of the patterns pieces. Wait a couple of seconds until they are sticky and apply them to the wood, right over the top of the blue tape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you plan to drill a hole in the top of the bat, now is the time to do so. First, mark the center of the piece of wood with a pencil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then place the piece on your drill press and line up the bit with the vertical dotted line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole into the center of the piece at the depth you desire. You can drill just a quarter inch or so deep so that you can attach a hanger, or you can drill all the way through to the bottom to create a garland. As long as you have flat edges at the top and the bottom, it is a fairly easy procedure to do.
> 
> For our purposes here, I used an 1/8" drill bit. That way I could knot ribbon or yarn and put a drop of glue in the hole and push the knot in to secure it to hang my bats. However, you may want to drill all the way through to the bottom so you can string several bats together. By doing this step before you scroll your piece out, you will greatly minimize the chance of breaking the bottom of the bat or tearing it out with the drill bit.
> 
> You are now ready to start cutting. For this piece, I used a #2 blade. I chose to start on the end point of the bat's wing. That way when I come to the end, I can come out of the piece right at the tip of the point and not leave a mark like when we had only smooth edges to deal with. Begin cutting from the tip of the wing, going along the bottom edge. (I am working in a clockwise direction again. It is my personal preference to cut in this direction. You can cut either clockwise or counter clockwise - whichever is more comfortable to you)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue cutting until you reach the end of the first section:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instead of turning to follow the line, begin turning the piece towards the waste area as you reach the tip of the wing, cutting very slightly into the waste area. This will be a pivot more than a cut. Once you begin pivoting the piece, very slightly lean the piece towards you so that the back of the blade is touching the wood, not the front cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the piece completely around so that you have tiny pocket in the waste area so that you can realign the blade to the line. Continue to cut along the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a short video here which will hopefully better illustrate this process. At the end of the video, when I was demonstrating the direction of the turn on the bat's ear, I said in error to turn in a *clockwise direction*. I meant in a *counter clockwise direction*, or toward the waste area. I think that an easier way to remember is to always turn towards the waste area when cutting points and outside corners like this. It is much easier than figuring clockwise and counter clockwise while you are cutting.
> 
> Below is the first video which illustrates the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will show you a video of the actual cutting. When you are practicing, I would suggest that you choose a larger piece of wood so that you have a bit more to hold on to. Although you need to follow the dotted lines at the top and the bottom of the bat if you are drilling, you can cut it on a wider piece and it will give you more waste area to hold and feel more comfortable for you.
> 
> You may also wish to use a thinner piece of wood to start out. I used a 5/8" piece of wood, but you may want to try 1/2". I also used poplar, which is a softer wood and I would suggest something like that or basswood to begin with. Something with an even grain works best. Of course you can use maple or other harder woods, but I would suggest you keep your pieces to about 3/8" or so until you are more comfortable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope these help you understand how I do sharp outside corners. Please feel free to ask me questions here on the forum. Chances are if you have questions, others may also be wondering the same thing. Maybe try a couple of practice pieces and then let me know what you think. I hope that I explained everything in a manner that you all can understand. I will be happy to clarify anything that I missed.
> 
> Remember too that it may take a little time to become comfortable with these techniques. I didn't learn them over night and I don't expect you will either. The main thing is to relax and have fun with them and pretty soon you won't even have to think about what you are doing.
> 
> I hope you enjoyed this lesson and learned something too. Thanks for reading.


I don't have a decent Scroll Saw at this time but have enjoyed the lessons and the videos.
I have a small Dremel I used when I was in High Cchool back in the early seventies. 
Can you tell me some more about the Excalibur Scroll Saw you bought?


----------



## JohnGray

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Sharp (Acute) Outside Corners*
> 
> By now most of you should have a bit of a feel for cutting some nice outside curves on the scroll saw. As we know however, most designs also consist of some nice sharp angles. Making accurate corners can be a bit of a challenge when you are new to scroll sawing, but with a few quick tips and a little bit of practice, you will find it is not as difficult as you may have imagined. Before long you will be scrolling those angles with little effort or thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In order for me to show you some ideas I have on scroll sawing outside corners, I drew up a practice pattern by using and modifying part of the design from my Gothic Bats Candle Tray and Charms Set.
> 
> Since the bats in this design have many pointed areas, I thought they would be perfect for you to practice this technique on. I am also going to demonstrate how you can drill holes in the tops of them for hanging as ornaments or a garland. This technique can be used on many other types of projects and shapes and is very simple to do.
> 
> I have given you a couple of sizes of bats to practice on, so that you can try them with different thicknesses of wood and different blade sizes and it will give you a feel for this technique. You can download the pattern here at my Google Docs and print it out for yourself. Use the patterns for any personal use you wish. You can even cut out several for your kids to paint and play with.
> 
> Let's start with applying the pattern. Below is a quick review.
> 
> Start by applying some blue painter's tape to your piece of wood. For my sample piece, I used a piece of poplar that was just over 5/8" thick. (You may find it a little easier to use a piece of wood that is slightly thinner, like 3/8" - 1/2" when you are starting out.) You are going to line up the bottom dotted lines of the bat pattern on the straight or milled edge of your wood if you are planning on drilling a hole in the top o the bat to hang.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next apply temporary adhesive to the backs of the patterns pieces. Wait a couple of seconds until they are sticky and apply them to the wood, right over the top of the blue tape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you plan to drill a hole in the top of the bat, now is the time to do so. First, mark the center of the piece of wood with a pencil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then place the piece on your drill press and line up the bit with the vertical dotted line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole into the center of the piece at the depth you desire. You can drill just a quarter inch or so deep so that you can attach a hanger, or you can drill all the way through to the bottom to create a garland. As long as you have flat edges at the top and the bottom, it is a fairly easy procedure to do.
> 
> For our purposes here, I used an 1/8" drill bit. That way I could knot ribbon or yarn and put a drop of glue in the hole and push the knot in to secure it to hang my bats. However, you may want to drill all the way through to the bottom so you can string several bats together. By doing this step before you scroll your piece out, you will greatly minimize the chance of breaking the bottom of the bat or tearing it out with the drill bit.
> 
> You are now ready to start cutting. For this piece, I used a #2 blade. I chose to start on the end point of the bat's wing. That way when I come to the end, I can come out of the piece right at the tip of the point and not leave a mark like when we had only smooth edges to deal with. Begin cutting from the tip of the wing, going along the bottom edge. (I am working in a clockwise direction again. It is my personal preference to cut in this direction. You can cut either clockwise or counter clockwise - whichever is more comfortable to you)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue cutting until you reach the end of the first section:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instead of turning to follow the line, begin turning the piece towards the waste area as you reach the tip of the wing, cutting very slightly into the waste area. This will be a pivot more than a cut. Once you begin pivoting the piece, very slightly lean the piece towards you so that the back of the blade is touching the wood, not the front cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the piece completely around so that you have tiny pocket in the waste area so that you can realign the blade to the line. Continue to cut along the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a short video here which will hopefully better illustrate this process. At the end of the video, when I was demonstrating the direction of the turn on the bat's ear, I said in error to turn in a *clockwise direction*. I meant in a *counter clockwise direction*, or toward the waste area. I think that an easier way to remember is to always turn towards the waste area when cutting points and outside corners like this. It is much easier than figuring clockwise and counter clockwise while you are cutting.
> 
> Below is the first video which illustrates the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will show you a video of the actual cutting. When you are practicing, I would suggest that you choose a larger piece of wood so that you have a bit more to hold on to. Although you need to follow the dotted lines at the top and the bottom of the bat if you are drilling, you can cut it on a wider piece and it will give you more waste area to hold and feel more comfortable for you.
> 
> You may also wish to use a thinner piece of wood to start out. I used a 5/8" piece of wood, but you may want to try 1/2". I also used poplar, which is a softer wood and I would suggest something like that or basswood to begin with. Something with an even grain works best. Of course you can use maple or other harder woods, but I would suggest you keep your pieces to about 3/8" or so until you are more comfortable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope these help you understand how I do sharp outside corners. Please feel free to ask me questions here on the forum. Chances are if you have questions, others may also be wondering the same thing. Maybe try a couple of practice pieces and then let me know what you think. I hope that I explained everything in a manner that you all can understand. I will be happy to clarify anything that I missed.
> 
> Remember too that it may take a little time to become comfortable with these techniques. I didn't learn them over night and I don't expect you will either. The main thing is to relax and have fun with them and pretty soon you won't even have to think about what you are doing.
> 
> I hope you enjoyed this lesson and learned something too. Thanks for reading.


Please tell me more about the Excalibur Saw too? PLEASE!!!


----------



## huntter2022

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Sharp (Acute) Outside Corners*
> 
> By now most of you should have a bit of a feel for cutting some nice outside curves on the scroll saw. As we know however, most designs also consist of some nice sharp angles. Making accurate corners can be a bit of a challenge when you are new to scroll sawing, but with a few quick tips and a little bit of practice, you will find it is not as difficult as you may have imagined. Before long you will be scrolling those angles with little effort or thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In order for me to show you some ideas I have on scroll sawing outside corners, I drew up a practice pattern by using and modifying part of the design from my Gothic Bats Candle Tray and Charms Set.
> 
> Since the bats in this design have many pointed areas, I thought they would be perfect for you to practice this technique on. I am also going to demonstrate how you can drill holes in the tops of them for hanging as ornaments or a garland. This technique can be used on many other types of projects and shapes and is very simple to do.
> 
> I have given you a couple of sizes of bats to practice on, so that you can try them with different thicknesses of wood and different blade sizes and it will give you a feel for this technique. You can download the pattern here at my Google Docs and print it out for yourself. Use the patterns for any personal use you wish. You can even cut out several for your kids to paint and play with.
> 
> Let's start with applying the pattern. Below is a quick review.
> 
> Start by applying some blue painter's tape to your piece of wood. For my sample piece, I used a piece of poplar that was just over 5/8" thick. (You may find it a little easier to use a piece of wood that is slightly thinner, like 3/8" - 1/2" when you are starting out.) You are going to line up the bottom dotted lines of the bat pattern on the straight or milled edge of your wood if you are planning on drilling a hole in the top o the bat to hang.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next apply temporary adhesive to the backs of the patterns pieces. Wait a couple of seconds until they are sticky and apply them to the wood, right over the top of the blue tape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you plan to drill a hole in the top of the bat, now is the time to do so. First, mark the center of the piece of wood with a pencil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then place the piece on your drill press and line up the bit with the vertical dotted line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole into the center of the piece at the depth you desire. You can drill just a quarter inch or so deep so that you can attach a hanger, or you can drill all the way through to the bottom to create a garland. As long as you have flat edges at the top and the bottom, it is a fairly easy procedure to do.
> 
> For our purposes here, I used an 1/8" drill bit. That way I could knot ribbon or yarn and put a drop of glue in the hole and push the knot in to secure it to hang my bats. However, you may want to drill all the way through to the bottom so you can string several bats together. By doing this step before you scroll your piece out, you will greatly minimize the chance of breaking the bottom of the bat or tearing it out with the drill bit.
> 
> You are now ready to start cutting. For this piece, I used a #2 blade. I chose to start on the end point of the bat's wing. That way when I come to the end, I can come out of the piece right at the tip of the point and not leave a mark like when we had only smooth edges to deal with. Begin cutting from the tip of the wing, going along the bottom edge. (I am working in a clockwise direction again. It is my personal preference to cut in this direction. You can cut either clockwise or counter clockwise - whichever is more comfortable to you)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue cutting until you reach the end of the first section:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instead of turning to follow the line, begin turning the piece towards the waste area as you reach the tip of the wing, cutting very slightly into the waste area. This will be a pivot more than a cut. Once you begin pivoting the piece, very slightly lean the piece towards you so that the back of the blade is touching the wood, not the front cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the piece completely around so that you have tiny pocket in the waste area so that you can realign the blade to the line. Continue to cut along the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a short video here which will hopefully better illustrate this process. At the end of the video, when I was demonstrating the direction of the turn on the bat's ear, I said in error to turn in a *clockwise direction*. I meant in a *counter clockwise direction*, or toward the waste area. I think that an easier way to remember is to always turn towards the waste area when cutting points and outside corners like this. It is much easier than figuring clockwise and counter clockwise while you are cutting.
> 
> Below is the first video which illustrates the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will show you a video of the actual cutting. When you are practicing, I would suggest that you choose a larger piece of wood so that you have a bit more to hold on to. Although you need to follow the dotted lines at the top and the bottom of the bat if you are drilling, you can cut it on a wider piece and it will give you more waste area to hold and feel more comfortable for you.
> 
> You may also wish to use a thinner piece of wood to start out. I used a 5/8" piece of wood, but you may want to try 1/2". I also used poplar, which is a softer wood and I would suggest something like that or basswood to begin with. Something with an even grain works best. Of course you can use maple or other harder woods, but I would suggest you keep your pieces to about 3/8" or so until you are more comfortable.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=J2HhUR7jjHc
> 
> I hope these help you understand how I do sharp outside corners. Please feel free to ask me questions here on the forum. Chances are if you have questions, others may also be wondering the same thing. Maybe try a couple of practice pieces and then let me know what you think. I hope that I explained everything in a manner that you all can understand. I will be happy to clarify anything that I missed.
> 
> Remember too that it may take a little time to become comfortable with these techniques. I didn't learn them over night and I don't expect you will either. The main thing is to relax and have fun with them and pretty soon you won't even have to think about what you are doing.
> 
> I hope you enjoyed this lesson and learned something too. Thanks for reading.


Here is a thread Shelia did on the EX 21

http://lumberjocks.com/scrollgirl/blog/22670

http://lumberjocks.com/scrollgirl/blog/22670

From my experence with the EX 21 it has improved my cutting abilities I cannot say much more then what Shelia has said in her blog .

I got mine though Seyco at a Scrollsaw picnic Ray was very helpful and not just because he was trying to sell me the saw but I have talked to him afterwards . I know anyone that has had a problem with there EX and talked with Ray has been able to solve the problem .

http://www.seyco.com/


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Sharp (Acute) Outside Corners*
> 
> By now most of you should have a bit of a feel for cutting some nice outside curves on the scroll saw. As we know however, most designs also consist of some nice sharp angles. Making accurate corners can be a bit of a challenge when you are new to scroll sawing, but with a few quick tips and a little bit of practice, you will find it is not as difficult as you may have imagined. Before long you will be scrolling those angles with little effort or thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In order for me to show you some ideas I have on scroll sawing outside corners, I drew up a practice pattern by using and modifying part of the design from my Gothic Bats Candle Tray and Charms Set.
> 
> Since the bats in this design have many pointed areas, I thought they would be perfect for you to practice this technique on. I am also going to demonstrate how you can drill holes in the tops of them for hanging as ornaments or a garland. This technique can be used on many other types of projects and shapes and is very simple to do.
> 
> I have given you a couple of sizes of bats to practice on, so that you can try them with different thicknesses of wood and different blade sizes and it will give you a feel for this technique. You can download the pattern here at my Google Docs and print it out for yourself. Use the patterns for any personal use you wish. You can even cut out several for your kids to paint and play with.
> 
> Let's start with applying the pattern. Below is a quick review.
> 
> Start by applying some blue painter's tape to your piece of wood. For my sample piece, I used a piece of poplar that was just over 5/8" thick. (You may find it a little easier to use a piece of wood that is slightly thinner, like 3/8" - 1/2" when you are starting out.) You are going to line up the bottom dotted lines of the bat pattern on the straight or milled edge of your wood if you are planning on drilling a hole in the top o the bat to hang.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next apply temporary adhesive to the backs of the patterns pieces. Wait a couple of seconds until they are sticky and apply them to the wood, right over the top of the blue tape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you plan to drill a hole in the top of the bat, now is the time to do so. First, mark the center of the piece of wood with a pencil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then place the piece on your drill press and line up the bit with the vertical dotted line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole into the center of the piece at the depth you desire. You can drill just a quarter inch or so deep so that you can attach a hanger, or you can drill all the way through to the bottom to create a garland. As long as you have flat edges at the top and the bottom, it is a fairly easy procedure to do.
> 
> For our purposes here, I used an 1/8" drill bit. That way I could knot ribbon or yarn and put a drop of glue in the hole and push the knot in to secure it to hang my bats. However, you may want to drill all the way through to the bottom so you can string several bats together. By doing this step before you scroll your piece out, you will greatly minimize the chance of breaking the bottom of the bat or tearing it out with the drill bit.
> 
> You are now ready to start cutting. For this piece, I used a #2 blade. I chose to start on the end point of the bat's wing. That way when I come to the end, I can come out of the piece right at the tip of the point and not leave a mark like when we had only smooth edges to deal with. Begin cutting from the tip of the wing, going along the bottom edge. (I am working in a clockwise direction again. It is my personal preference to cut in this direction. You can cut either clockwise or counter clockwise - whichever is more comfortable to you)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue cutting until you reach the end of the first section:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instead of turning to follow the line, begin turning the piece towards the waste area as you reach the tip of the wing, cutting very slightly into the waste area. This will be a pivot more than a cut. Once you begin pivoting the piece, very slightly lean the piece towards you so that the back of the blade is touching the wood, not the front cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the piece completely around so that you have tiny pocket in the waste area so that you can realign the blade to the line. Continue to cut along the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a short video here which will hopefully better illustrate this process. At the end of the video, when I was demonstrating the direction of the turn on the bat's ear, I said in error to turn in a *clockwise direction*. I meant in a *counter clockwise direction*, or toward the waste area. I think that an easier way to remember is to always turn towards the waste area when cutting points and outside corners like this. It is much easier than figuring clockwise and counter clockwise while you are cutting.
> 
> Below is the first video which illustrates the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will show you a video of the actual cutting. When you are practicing, I would suggest that you choose a larger piece of wood so that you have a bit more to hold on to. Although you need to follow the dotted lines at the top and the bottom of the bat if you are drilling, you can cut it on a wider piece and it will give you more waste area to hold and feel more comfortable for you.
> 
> You may also wish to use a thinner piece of wood to start out. I used a 5/8" piece of wood, but you may want to try 1/2". I also used poplar, which is a softer wood and I would suggest something like that or basswood to begin with. Something with an even grain works best. Of course you can use maple or other harder woods, but I would suggest you keep your pieces to about 3/8" or so until you are more comfortable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope these help you understand how I do sharp outside corners. Please feel free to ask me questions here on the forum. Chances are if you have questions, others may also be wondering the same thing. Maybe try a couple of practice pieces and then let me know what you think. I hope that I explained everything in a manner that you all can understand. I will be happy to clarify anything that I missed.
> 
> Remember too that it may take a little time to become comfortable with these techniques. I didn't learn them over night and I don't expect you will either. The main thing is to relax and have fun with them and pretty soon you won't even have to think about what you are doing.
> 
> I hope you enjoyed this lesson and learned something too. Thanks for reading.


Thank you so much David for re-posting this.

John - I LOVE my Excalibur saw! It really makes a difference to have a good saw like that. It isn't that you can't cut with another saw, but it is just so much easier on something like the Ex. It cuts very smooth and has very little back to front vibration, which means when you turn or maneuver it is very easy to control. I agree with David - look at what I had to say about it on the blogs. And Ray from Seyco is really the best. I find that no matter what questions or issues I may have, he helps out a lot. Even though I am in Canada and he is in Texas, he is very easy to work with and knows the saw like the back of his hand. I don't think you would regret investing in one if you have the money to do so. 

Sheila


----------



## Cozmo35

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Sharp (Acute) Outside Corners*
> 
> By now most of you should have a bit of a feel for cutting some nice outside curves on the scroll saw. As we know however, most designs also consist of some nice sharp angles. Making accurate corners can be a bit of a challenge when you are new to scroll sawing, but with a few quick tips and a little bit of practice, you will find it is not as difficult as you may have imagined. Before long you will be scrolling those angles with little effort or thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In order for me to show you some ideas I have on scroll sawing outside corners, I drew up a practice pattern by using and modifying part of the design from my Gothic Bats Candle Tray and Charms Set.
> 
> Since the bats in this design have many pointed areas, I thought they would be perfect for you to practice this technique on. I am also going to demonstrate how you can drill holes in the tops of them for hanging as ornaments or a garland. This technique can be used on many other types of projects and shapes and is very simple to do.
> 
> I have given you a couple of sizes of bats to practice on, so that you can try them with different thicknesses of wood and different blade sizes and it will give you a feel for this technique. You can download the pattern here at my Google Docs and print it out for yourself. Use the patterns for any personal use you wish. You can even cut out several for your kids to paint and play with.
> 
> Let's start with applying the pattern. Below is a quick review.
> 
> Start by applying some blue painter's tape to your piece of wood. For my sample piece, I used a piece of poplar that was just over 5/8" thick. (You may find it a little easier to use a piece of wood that is slightly thinner, like 3/8" - 1/2" when you are starting out.) You are going to line up the bottom dotted lines of the bat pattern on the straight or milled edge of your wood if you are planning on drilling a hole in the top o the bat to hang.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next apply temporary adhesive to the backs of the patterns pieces. Wait a couple of seconds until they are sticky and apply them to the wood, right over the top of the blue tape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you plan to drill a hole in the top of the bat, now is the time to do so. First, mark the center of the piece of wood with a pencil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then place the piece on your drill press and line up the bit with the vertical dotted line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole into the center of the piece at the depth you desire. You can drill just a quarter inch or so deep so that you can attach a hanger, or you can drill all the way through to the bottom to create a garland. As long as you have flat edges at the top and the bottom, it is a fairly easy procedure to do.
> 
> For our purposes here, I used an 1/8" drill bit. That way I could knot ribbon or yarn and put a drop of glue in the hole and push the knot in to secure it to hang my bats. However, you may want to drill all the way through to the bottom so you can string several bats together. By doing this step before you scroll your piece out, you will greatly minimize the chance of breaking the bottom of the bat or tearing it out with the drill bit.
> 
> You are now ready to start cutting. For this piece, I used a #2 blade. I chose to start on the end point of the bat's wing. That way when I come to the end, I can come out of the piece right at the tip of the point and not leave a mark like when we had only smooth edges to deal with. Begin cutting from the tip of the wing, going along the bottom edge. (I am working in a clockwise direction again. It is my personal preference to cut in this direction. You can cut either clockwise or counter clockwise - whichever is more comfortable to you)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue cutting until you reach the end of the first section:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instead of turning to follow the line, begin turning the piece towards the waste area as you reach the tip of the wing, cutting very slightly into the waste area. This will be a pivot more than a cut. Once you begin pivoting the piece, very slightly lean the piece towards you so that the back of the blade is touching the wood, not the front cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the piece completely around so that you have tiny pocket in the waste area so that you can realign the blade to the line. Continue to cut along the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a short video here which will hopefully better illustrate this process. At the end of the video, when I was demonstrating the direction of the turn on the bat's ear, I said in error to turn in a *clockwise direction*. I meant in a *counter clockwise direction*, or toward the waste area. I think that an easier way to remember is to always turn towards the waste area when cutting points and outside corners like this. It is much easier than figuring clockwise and counter clockwise while you are cutting.
> 
> Below is the first video which illustrates the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will show you a video of the actual cutting. When you are practicing, I would suggest that you choose a larger piece of wood so that you have a bit more to hold on to. Although you need to follow the dotted lines at the top and the bottom of the bat if you are drilling, you can cut it on a wider piece and it will give you more waste area to hold and feel more comfortable for you.
> 
> You may also wish to use a thinner piece of wood to start out. I used a 5/8" piece of wood, but you may want to try 1/2". I also used poplar, which is a softer wood and I would suggest something like that or basswood to begin with. Something with an even grain works best. Of course you can use maple or other harder woods, but I would suggest you keep your pieces to about 3/8" or so until you are more comfortable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope these help you understand how I do sharp outside corners. Please feel free to ask me questions here on the forum. Chances are if you have questions, others may also be wondering the same thing. Maybe try a couple of practice pieces and then let me know what you think. I hope that I explained everything in a manner that you all can understand. I will be happy to clarify anything that I missed.
> 
> Remember too that it may take a little time to become comfortable with these techniques. I didn't learn them over night and I don't expect you will either. The main thing is to relax and have fun with them and pretty soon you won't even have to think about what you are doing.
> 
> I hope you enjoyed this lesson and learned something too. Thanks for reading.


Shelia! I just noticed the "class" tab! I guess that means I don't have any (class). LOL! Awesome video!!


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Sharp (Acute) Outside Corners*
> 
> By now most of you should have a bit of a feel for cutting some nice outside curves on the scroll saw. As we know however, most designs also consist of some nice sharp angles. Making accurate corners can be a bit of a challenge when you are new to scroll sawing, but with a few quick tips and a little bit of practice, you will find it is not as difficult as you may have imagined. Before long you will be scrolling those angles with little effort or thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In order for me to show you some ideas I have on scroll sawing outside corners, I drew up a practice pattern by using and modifying part of the design from my Gothic Bats Candle Tray and Charms Set.
> 
> Since the bats in this design have many pointed areas, I thought they would be perfect for you to practice this technique on. I am also going to demonstrate how you can drill holes in the tops of them for hanging as ornaments or a garland. This technique can be used on many other types of projects and shapes and is very simple to do.
> 
> I have given you a couple of sizes of bats to practice on, so that you can try them with different thicknesses of wood and different blade sizes and it will give you a feel for this technique. You can download the pattern here at my Google Docs and print it out for yourself. Use the patterns for any personal use you wish. You can even cut out several for your kids to paint and play with.
> 
> Let's start with applying the pattern. Below is a quick review.
> 
> Start by applying some blue painter's tape to your piece of wood. For my sample piece, I used a piece of poplar that was just over 5/8" thick. (You may find it a little easier to use a piece of wood that is slightly thinner, like 3/8" - 1/2" when you are starting out.) You are going to line up the bottom dotted lines of the bat pattern on the straight or milled edge of your wood if you are planning on drilling a hole in the top o the bat to hang.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next apply temporary adhesive to the backs of the patterns pieces. Wait a couple of seconds until they are sticky and apply them to the wood, right over the top of the blue tape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you plan to drill a hole in the top of the bat, now is the time to do so. First, mark the center of the piece of wood with a pencil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then place the piece on your drill press and line up the bit with the vertical dotted line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole into the center of the piece at the depth you desire. You can drill just a quarter inch or so deep so that you can attach a hanger, or you can drill all the way through to the bottom to create a garland. As long as you have flat edges at the top and the bottom, it is a fairly easy procedure to do.
> 
> For our purposes here, I used an 1/8" drill bit. That way I could knot ribbon or yarn and put a drop of glue in the hole and push the knot in to secure it to hang my bats. However, you may want to drill all the way through to the bottom so you can string several bats together. By doing this step before you scroll your piece out, you will greatly minimize the chance of breaking the bottom of the bat or tearing it out with the drill bit.
> 
> You are now ready to start cutting. For this piece, I used a #2 blade. I chose to start on the end point of the bat's wing. That way when I come to the end, I can come out of the piece right at the tip of the point and not leave a mark like when we had only smooth edges to deal with. Begin cutting from the tip of the wing, going along the bottom edge. (I am working in a clockwise direction again. It is my personal preference to cut in this direction. You can cut either clockwise or counter clockwise - whichever is more comfortable to you)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue cutting until you reach the end of the first section:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instead of turning to follow the line, begin turning the piece towards the waste area as you reach the tip of the wing, cutting very slightly into the waste area. This will be a pivot more than a cut. Once you begin pivoting the piece, very slightly lean the piece towards you so that the back of the blade is touching the wood, not the front cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the piece completely around so that you have tiny pocket in the waste area so that you can realign the blade to the line. Continue to cut along the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a short video here which will hopefully better illustrate this process. At the end of the video, when I was demonstrating the direction of the turn on the bat's ear, I said in error to turn in a *clockwise direction*. I meant in a *counter clockwise direction*, or toward the waste area. I think that an easier way to remember is to always turn towards the waste area when cutting points and outside corners like this. It is much easier than figuring clockwise and counter clockwise while you are cutting.
> 
> Below is the first video which illustrates the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will show you a video of the actual cutting. When you are practicing, I would suggest that you choose a larger piece of wood so that you have a bit more to hold on to. Although you need to follow the dotted lines at the top and the bottom of the bat if you are drilling, you can cut it on a wider piece and it will give you more waste area to hold and feel more comfortable for you.
> 
> You may also wish to use a thinner piece of wood to start out. I used a 5/8" piece of wood, but you may want to try 1/2". I also used poplar, which is a softer wood and I would suggest something like that or basswood to begin with. Something with an even grain works best. Of course you can use maple or other harder woods, but I would suggest you keep your pieces to about 3/8" or so until you are more comfortable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope these help you understand how I do sharp outside corners. Please feel free to ask me questions here on the forum. Chances are if you have questions, others may also be wondering the same thing. Maybe try a couple of practice pieces and then let me know what you think. I hope that I explained everything in a manner that you all can understand. I will be happy to clarify anything that I missed.
> 
> Remember too that it may take a little time to become comfortable with these techniques. I didn't learn them over night and I don't expect you will either. The main thing is to relax and have fun with them and pretty soon you won't even have to think about what you are doing.
> 
> I hope you enjoyed this lesson and learned something too. Thanks for reading.


Thanks, Cozmo. I still have a couple more classes that I want to do, and I will be posting them shortly. I am glad you like them. 

Sheila


----------



## jake86

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Sharp (Acute) Outside Corners*
> 
> By now most of you should have a bit of a feel for cutting some nice outside curves on the scroll saw. As we know however, most designs also consist of some nice sharp angles. Making accurate corners can be a bit of a challenge when you are new to scroll sawing, but with a few quick tips and a little bit of practice, you will find it is not as difficult as you may have imagined. Before long you will be scrolling those angles with little effort or thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In order for me to show you some ideas I have on scroll sawing outside corners, I drew up a practice pattern by using and modifying part of the design from my Gothic Bats Candle Tray and Charms Set.
> 
> Since the bats in this design have many pointed areas, I thought they would be perfect for you to practice this technique on. I am also going to demonstrate how you can drill holes in the tops of them for hanging as ornaments or a garland. This technique can be used on many other types of projects and shapes and is very simple to do.
> 
> I have given you a couple of sizes of bats to practice on, so that you can try them with different thicknesses of wood and different blade sizes and it will give you a feel for this technique. You can download the pattern here at my Google Docs and print it out for yourself. Use the patterns for any personal use you wish. You can even cut out several for your kids to paint and play with.
> 
> Let's start with applying the pattern. Below is a quick review.
> 
> Start by applying some blue painter's tape to your piece of wood. For my sample piece, I used a piece of poplar that was just over 5/8" thick. (You may find it a little easier to use a piece of wood that is slightly thinner, like 3/8" - 1/2" when you are starting out.) You are going to line up the bottom dotted lines of the bat pattern on the straight or milled edge of your wood if you are planning on drilling a hole in the top o the bat to hang.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next apply temporary adhesive to the backs of the patterns pieces. Wait a couple of seconds until they are sticky and apply them to the wood, right over the top of the blue tape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you plan to drill a hole in the top of the bat, now is the time to do so. First, mark the center of the piece of wood with a pencil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then place the piece on your drill press and line up the bit with the vertical dotted line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole into the center of the piece at the depth you desire. You can drill just a quarter inch or so deep so that you can attach a hanger, or you can drill all the way through to the bottom to create a garland. As long as you have flat edges at the top and the bottom, it is a fairly easy procedure to do.
> 
> For our purposes here, I used an 1/8" drill bit. That way I could knot ribbon or yarn and put a drop of glue in the hole and push the knot in to secure it to hang my bats. However, you may want to drill all the way through to the bottom so you can string several bats together. By doing this step before you scroll your piece out, you will greatly minimize the chance of breaking the bottom of the bat or tearing it out with the drill bit.
> 
> You are now ready to start cutting. For this piece, I used a #2 blade. I chose to start on the end point of the bat's wing. That way when I come to the end, I can come out of the piece right at the tip of the point and not leave a mark like when we had only smooth edges to deal with. Begin cutting from the tip of the wing, going along the bottom edge. (I am working in a clockwise direction again. It is my personal preference to cut in this direction. You can cut either clockwise or counter clockwise - whichever is more comfortable to you)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue cutting until you reach the end of the first section:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instead of turning to follow the line, begin turning the piece towards the waste area as you reach the tip of the wing, cutting very slightly into the waste area. This will be a pivot more than a cut. Once you begin pivoting the piece, very slightly lean the piece towards you so that the back of the blade is touching the wood, not the front cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the piece completely around so that you have tiny pocket in the waste area so that you can realign the blade to the line. Continue to cut along the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a short video here which will hopefully better illustrate this process. At the end of the video, when I was demonstrating the direction of the turn on the bat's ear, I said in error to turn in a *clockwise direction*. I meant in a *counter clockwise direction*, or toward the waste area. I think that an easier way to remember is to always turn towards the waste area when cutting points and outside corners like this. It is much easier than figuring clockwise and counter clockwise while you are cutting.
> 
> Below is the first video which illustrates the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will show you a video of the actual cutting. When you are practicing, I would suggest that you choose a larger piece of wood so that you have a bit more to hold on to. Although you need to follow the dotted lines at the top and the bottom of the bat if you are drilling, you can cut it on a wider piece and it will give you more waste area to hold and feel more comfortable for you.
> 
> You may also wish to use a thinner piece of wood to start out. I used a 5/8" piece of wood, but you may want to try 1/2". I also used poplar, which is a softer wood and I would suggest something like that or basswood to begin with. Something with an even grain works best. Of course you can use maple or other harder woods, but I would suggest you keep your pieces to about 3/8" or so until you are more comfortable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope these help you understand how I do sharp outside corners. Please feel free to ask me questions here on the forum. Chances are if you have questions, others may also be wondering the same thing. Maybe try a couple of practice pieces and then let me know what you think. I hope that I explained everything in a manner that you all can understand. I will be happy to clarify anything that I missed.
> 
> Remember too that it may take a little time to become comfortable with these techniques. I didn't learn them over night and I don't expect you will either. The main thing is to relax and have fun with them and pretty soon you won't even have to think about what you are doing.
> 
> I hope you enjoyed this lesson and learned something too. Thanks for reading.


Eureka!

Think I found out why i have been having trouble staying (cutting) on the line. If I stand when cutting, I get a more direct view (down at) the stock. When sitting, I seem to be looking more horizontally askew at the stock which somehow throws me off the line. So stand I shall!

When cutting the bat, I seem to be to far into the waist area when I make my turn, but it works. The bat turned out to be my best SS attempt so far after many, many attempts. This is beginning to be fun!

Live long & prosper


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Sharp (Acute) Outside Corners*
> 
> By now most of you should have a bit of a feel for cutting some nice outside curves on the scroll saw. As we know however, most designs also consist of some nice sharp angles. Making accurate corners can be a bit of a challenge when you are new to scroll sawing, but with a few quick tips and a little bit of practice, you will find it is not as difficult as you may have imagined. Before long you will be scrolling those angles with little effort or thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In order for me to show you some ideas I have on scroll sawing outside corners, I drew up a practice pattern by using and modifying part of the design from my Gothic Bats Candle Tray and Charms Set.
> 
> Since the bats in this design have many pointed areas, I thought they would be perfect for you to practice this technique on. I am also going to demonstrate how you can drill holes in the tops of them for hanging as ornaments or a garland. This technique can be used on many other types of projects and shapes and is very simple to do.
> 
> I have given you a couple of sizes of bats to practice on, so that you can try them with different thicknesses of wood and different blade sizes and it will give you a feel for this technique. You can download the pattern here at my Google Docs and print it out for yourself. Use the patterns for any personal use you wish. You can even cut out several for your kids to paint and play with.
> 
> Let's start with applying the pattern. Below is a quick review.
> 
> Start by applying some blue painter's tape to your piece of wood. For my sample piece, I used a piece of poplar that was just over 5/8" thick. (You may find it a little easier to use a piece of wood that is slightly thinner, like 3/8" - 1/2" when you are starting out.) You are going to line up the bottom dotted lines of the bat pattern on the straight or milled edge of your wood if you are planning on drilling a hole in the top o the bat to hang.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next apply temporary adhesive to the backs of the patterns pieces. Wait a couple of seconds until they are sticky and apply them to the wood, right over the top of the blue tape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you plan to drill a hole in the top of the bat, now is the time to do so. First, mark the center of the piece of wood with a pencil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then place the piece on your drill press and line up the bit with the vertical dotted line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole into the center of the piece at the depth you desire. You can drill just a quarter inch or so deep so that you can attach a hanger, or you can drill all the way through to the bottom to create a garland. As long as you have flat edges at the top and the bottom, it is a fairly easy procedure to do.
> 
> For our purposes here, I used an 1/8" drill bit. That way I could knot ribbon or yarn and put a drop of glue in the hole and push the knot in to secure it to hang my bats. However, you may want to drill all the way through to the bottom so you can string several bats together. By doing this step before you scroll your piece out, you will greatly minimize the chance of breaking the bottom of the bat or tearing it out with the drill bit.
> 
> You are now ready to start cutting. For this piece, I used a #2 blade. I chose to start on the end point of the bat's wing. That way when I come to the end, I can come out of the piece right at the tip of the point and not leave a mark like when we had only smooth edges to deal with. Begin cutting from the tip of the wing, going along the bottom edge. (I am working in a clockwise direction again. It is my personal preference to cut in this direction. You can cut either clockwise or counter clockwise - whichever is more comfortable to you)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue cutting until you reach the end of the first section:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instead of turning to follow the line, begin turning the piece towards the waste area as you reach the tip of the wing, cutting very slightly into the waste area. This will be a pivot more than a cut. Once you begin pivoting the piece, very slightly lean the piece towards you so that the back of the blade is touching the wood, not the front cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the piece completely around so that you have tiny pocket in the waste area so that you can realign the blade to the line. Continue to cut along the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a short video here which will hopefully better illustrate this process. At the end of the video, when I was demonstrating the direction of the turn on the bat's ear, I said in error to turn in a *clockwise direction*. I meant in a *counter clockwise direction*, or toward the waste area. I think that an easier way to remember is to always turn towards the waste area when cutting points and outside corners like this. It is much easier than figuring clockwise and counter clockwise while you are cutting.
> 
> Below is the first video which illustrates the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will show you a video of the actual cutting. When you are practicing, I would suggest that you choose a larger piece of wood so that you have a bit more to hold on to. Although you need to follow the dotted lines at the top and the bottom of the bat if you are drilling, you can cut it on a wider piece and it will give you more waste area to hold and feel more comfortable for you.
> 
> You may also wish to use a thinner piece of wood to start out. I used a 5/8" piece of wood, but you may want to try 1/2". I also used poplar, which is a softer wood and I would suggest something like that or basswood to begin with. Something with an even grain works best. Of course you can use maple or other harder woods, but I would suggest you keep your pieces to about 3/8" or so until you are more comfortable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope these help you understand how I do sharp outside corners. Please feel free to ask me questions here on the forum. Chances are if you have questions, others may also be wondering the same thing. Maybe try a couple of practice pieces and then let me know what you think. I hope that I explained everything in a manner that you all can understand. I will be happy to clarify anything that I missed.
> 
> Remember too that it may take a little time to become comfortable with these techniques. I didn't learn them over night and I don't expect you will either. The main thing is to relax and have fun with them and pretty soon you won't even have to think about what you are doing.
> 
> I hope you enjoyed this lesson and learned something too. Thanks for reading.


That is great to hear John. Once you get the 'feel' of things and start to become more comfortable, then it becomes more and more fun! Keep at it and keep us posted. I think we all learn from each other here. 

Sheila


----------



## alba

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Sharp (Acute) Outside Corners*
> 
> By now most of you should have a bit of a feel for cutting some nice outside curves on the scroll saw. As we know however, most designs also consist of some nice sharp angles. Making accurate corners can be a bit of a challenge when you are new to scroll sawing, but with a few quick tips and a little bit of practice, you will find it is not as difficult as you may have imagined. Before long you will be scrolling those angles with little effort or thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In order for me to show you some ideas I have on scroll sawing outside corners, I drew up a practice pattern by using and modifying part of the design from my Gothic Bats Candle Tray and Charms Set.
> 
> Since the bats in this design have many pointed areas, I thought they would be perfect for you to practice this technique on. I am also going to demonstrate how you can drill holes in the tops of them for hanging as ornaments or a garland. This technique can be used on many other types of projects and shapes and is very simple to do.
> 
> I have given you a couple of sizes of bats to practice on, so that you can try them with different thicknesses of wood and different blade sizes and it will give you a feel for this technique. You can download the pattern here at my Google Docs and print it out for yourself. Use the patterns for any personal use you wish. You can even cut out several for your kids to paint and play with.
> 
> Let's start with applying the pattern. Below is a quick review.
> 
> Start by applying some blue painter's tape to your piece of wood. For my sample piece, I used a piece of poplar that was just over 5/8" thick. (You may find it a little easier to use a piece of wood that is slightly thinner, like 3/8" - 1/2" when you are starting out.) You are going to line up the bottom dotted lines of the bat pattern on the straight or milled edge of your wood if you are planning on drilling a hole in the top o the bat to hang.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next apply temporary adhesive to the backs of the patterns pieces. Wait a couple of seconds until they are sticky and apply them to the wood, right over the top of the blue tape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you plan to drill a hole in the top of the bat, now is the time to do so. First, mark the center of the piece of wood with a pencil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then place the piece on your drill press and line up the bit with the vertical dotted line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole into the center of the piece at the depth you desire. You can drill just a quarter inch or so deep so that you can attach a hanger, or you can drill all the way through to the bottom to create a garland. As long as you have flat edges at the top and the bottom, it is a fairly easy procedure to do.
> 
> For our purposes here, I used an 1/8" drill bit. That way I could knot ribbon or yarn and put a drop of glue in the hole and push the knot in to secure it to hang my bats. However, you may want to drill all the way through to the bottom so you can string several bats together. By doing this step before you scroll your piece out, you will greatly minimize the chance of breaking the bottom of the bat or tearing it out with the drill bit.
> 
> You are now ready to start cutting. For this piece, I used a #2 blade. I chose to start on the end point of the bat's wing. That way when I come to the end, I can come out of the piece right at the tip of the point and not leave a mark like when we had only smooth edges to deal with. Begin cutting from the tip of the wing, going along the bottom edge. (I am working in a clockwise direction again. It is my personal preference to cut in this direction. You can cut either clockwise or counter clockwise - whichever is more comfortable to you)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue cutting until you reach the end of the first section:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instead of turning to follow the line, begin turning the piece towards the waste area as you reach the tip of the wing, cutting very slightly into the waste area. This will be a pivot more than a cut. Once you begin pivoting the piece, very slightly lean the piece towards you so that the back of the blade is touching the wood, not the front cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the piece completely around so that you have tiny pocket in the waste area so that you can realign the blade to the line. Continue to cut along the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a short video here which will hopefully better illustrate this process. At the end of the video, when I was demonstrating the direction of the turn on the bat's ear, I said in error to turn in a *clockwise direction*. I meant in a *counter clockwise direction*, or toward the waste area. I think that an easier way to remember is to always turn towards the waste area when cutting points and outside corners like this. It is much easier than figuring clockwise and counter clockwise while you are cutting.
> 
> Below is the first video which illustrates the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will show you a video of the actual cutting. When you are practicing, I would suggest that you choose a larger piece of wood so that you have a bit more to hold on to. Although you need to follow the dotted lines at the top and the bottom of the bat if you are drilling, you can cut it on a wider piece and it will give you more waste area to hold and feel more comfortable for you.
> 
> You may also wish to use a thinner piece of wood to start out. I used a 5/8" piece of wood, but you may want to try 1/2". I also used poplar, which is a softer wood and I would suggest something like that or basswood to begin with. Something with an even grain works best. Of course you can use maple or other harder woods, but I would suggest you keep your pieces to about 3/8" or so until you are more comfortable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope these help you understand how I do sharp outside corners. Please feel free to ask me questions here on the forum. Chances are if you have questions, others may also be wondering the same thing. Maybe try a couple of practice pieces and then let me know what you think. I hope that I explained everything in a manner that you all can understand. I will be happy to clarify anything that I missed.
> 
> Remember too that it may take a little time to become comfortable with these techniques. I didn't learn them over night and I don't expect you will either. The main thing is to relax and have fun with them and pretty soon you won't even have to think about what you are doing.
> 
> I hope you enjoyed this lesson and learned something too. Thanks for reading.


Sheila that is a neat method
I'm still on my first piece my magnifier lamp has arrived though 

Jamie


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Sharp (Acute) Outside Corners*
> 
> By now most of you should have a bit of a feel for cutting some nice outside curves on the scroll saw. As we know however, most designs also consist of some nice sharp angles. Making accurate corners can be a bit of a challenge when you are new to scroll sawing, but with a few quick tips and a little bit of practice, you will find it is not as difficult as you may have imagined. Before long you will be scrolling those angles with little effort or thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In order for me to show you some ideas I have on scroll sawing outside corners, I drew up a practice pattern by using and modifying part of the design from my Gothic Bats Candle Tray and Charms Set.
> 
> Since the bats in this design have many pointed areas, I thought they would be perfect for you to practice this technique on. I am also going to demonstrate how you can drill holes in the tops of them for hanging as ornaments or a garland. This technique can be used on many other types of projects and shapes and is very simple to do.
> 
> I have given you a couple of sizes of bats to practice on, so that you can try them with different thicknesses of wood and different blade sizes and it will give you a feel for this technique. You can download the pattern here at my Google Docs and print it out for yourself. Use the patterns for any personal use you wish. You can even cut out several for your kids to paint and play with.
> 
> Let's start with applying the pattern. Below is a quick review.
> 
> Start by applying some blue painter's tape to your piece of wood. For my sample piece, I used a piece of poplar that was just over 5/8" thick. (You may find it a little easier to use a piece of wood that is slightly thinner, like 3/8" - 1/2" when you are starting out.) You are going to line up the bottom dotted lines of the bat pattern on the straight or milled edge of your wood if you are planning on drilling a hole in the top o the bat to hang.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next apply temporary adhesive to the backs of the patterns pieces. Wait a couple of seconds until they are sticky and apply them to the wood, right over the top of the blue tape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you plan to drill a hole in the top of the bat, now is the time to do so. First, mark the center of the piece of wood with a pencil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then place the piece on your drill press and line up the bit with the vertical dotted line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole into the center of the piece at the depth you desire. You can drill just a quarter inch or so deep so that you can attach a hanger, or you can drill all the way through to the bottom to create a garland. As long as you have flat edges at the top and the bottom, it is a fairly easy procedure to do.
> 
> For our purposes here, I used an 1/8" drill bit. That way I could knot ribbon or yarn and put a drop of glue in the hole and push the knot in to secure it to hang my bats. However, you may want to drill all the way through to the bottom so you can string several bats together. By doing this step before you scroll your piece out, you will greatly minimize the chance of breaking the bottom of the bat or tearing it out with the drill bit.
> 
> You are now ready to start cutting. For this piece, I used a #2 blade. I chose to start on the end point of the bat's wing. That way when I come to the end, I can come out of the piece right at the tip of the point and not leave a mark like when we had only smooth edges to deal with. Begin cutting from the tip of the wing, going along the bottom edge. (I am working in a clockwise direction again. It is my personal preference to cut in this direction. You can cut either clockwise or counter clockwise - whichever is more comfortable to you)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue cutting until you reach the end of the first section:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instead of turning to follow the line, begin turning the piece towards the waste area as you reach the tip of the wing, cutting very slightly into the waste area. This will be a pivot more than a cut. Once you begin pivoting the piece, very slightly lean the piece towards you so that the back of the blade is touching the wood, not the front cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the piece completely around so that you have tiny pocket in the waste area so that you can realign the blade to the line. Continue to cut along the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a short video here which will hopefully better illustrate this process. At the end of the video, when I was demonstrating the direction of the turn on the bat's ear, I said in error to turn in a *clockwise direction*. I meant in a *counter clockwise direction*, or toward the waste area. I think that an easier way to remember is to always turn towards the waste area when cutting points and outside corners like this. It is much easier than figuring clockwise and counter clockwise while you are cutting.
> 
> Below is the first video which illustrates the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will show you a video of the actual cutting. When you are practicing, I would suggest that you choose a larger piece of wood so that you have a bit more to hold on to. Although you need to follow the dotted lines at the top and the bottom of the bat if you are drilling, you can cut it on a wider piece and it will give you more waste area to hold and feel more comfortable for you.
> 
> You may also wish to use a thinner piece of wood to start out. I used a 5/8" piece of wood, but you may want to try 1/2". I also used poplar, which is a softer wood and I would suggest something like that or basswood to begin with. Something with an even grain works best. Of course you can use maple or other harder woods, but I would suggest you keep your pieces to about 3/8" or so until you are more comfortable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope these help you understand how I do sharp outside corners. Please feel free to ask me questions here on the forum. Chances are if you have questions, others may also be wondering the same thing. Maybe try a couple of practice pieces and then let me know what you think. I hope that I explained everything in a manner that you all can understand. I will be happy to clarify anything that I missed.
> 
> Remember too that it may take a little time to become comfortable with these techniques. I didn't learn them over night and I don't expect you will either. The main thing is to relax and have fun with them and pretty soon you won't even have to think about what you are doing.
> 
> I hope you enjoyed this lesson and learned something too. Thanks for reading.


What piece are you cutting Jamie?

Sheila


----------



## alba

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Sharp (Acute) Outside Corners*
> 
> By now most of you should have a bit of a feel for cutting some nice outside curves on the scroll saw. As we know however, most designs also consist of some nice sharp angles. Making accurate corners can be a bit of a challenge when you are new to scroll sawing, but with a few quick tips and a little bit of practice, you will find it is not as difficult as you may have imagined. Before long you will be scrolling those angles with little effort or thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In order for me to show you some ideas I have on scroll sawing outside corners, I drew up a practice pattern by using and modifying part of the design from my Gothic Bats Candle Tray and Charms Set.
> 
> Since the bats in this design have many pointed areas, I thought they would be perfect for you to practice this technique on. I am also going to demonstrate how you can drill holes in the tops of them for hanging as ornaments or a garland. This technique can be used on many other types of projects and shapes and is very simple to do.
> 
> I have given you a couple of sizes of bats to practice on, so that you can try them with different thicknesses of wood and different blade sizes and it will give you a feel for this technique. You can download the pattern here at my Google Docs and print it out for yourself. Use the patterns for any personal use you wish. You can even cut out several for your kids to paint and play with.
> 
> Let's start with applying the pattern. Below is a quick review.
> 
> Start by applying some blue painter's tape to your piece of wood. For my sample piece, I used a piece of poplar that was just over 5/8" thick. (You may find it a little easier to use a piece of wood that is slightly thinner, like 3/8" - 1/2" when you are starting out.) You are going to line up the bottom dotted lines of the bat pattern on the straight or milled edge of your wood if you are planning on drilling a hole in the top o the bat to hang.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next apply temporary adhesive to the backs of the patterns pieces. Wait a couple of seconds until they are sticky and apply them to the wood, right over the top of the blue tape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you plan to drill a hole in the top of the bat, now is the time to do so. First, mark the center of the piece of wood with a pencil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then place the piece on your drill press and line up the bit with the vertical dotted line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole into the center of the piece at the depth you desire. You can drill just a quarter inch or so deep so that you can attach a hanger, or you can drill all the way through to the bottom to create a garland. As long as you have flat edges at the top and the bottom, it is a fairly easy procedure to do.
> 
> For our purposes here, I used an 1/8" drill bit. That way I could knot ribbon or yarn and put a drop of glue in the hole and push the knot in to secure it to hang my bats. However, you may want to drill all the way through to the bottom so you can string several bats together. By doing this step before you scroll your piece out, you will greatly minimize the chance of breaking the bottom of the bat or tearing it out with the drill bit.
> 
> You are now ready to start cutting. For this piece, I used a #2 blade. I chose to start on the end point of the bat's wing. That way when I come to the end, I can come out of the piece right at the tip of the point and not leave a mark like when we had only smooth edges to deal with. Begin cutting from the tip of the wing, going along the bottom edge. (I am working in a clockwise direction again. It is my personal preference to cut in this direction. You can cut either clockwise or counter clockwise - whichever is more comfortable to you)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue cutting until you reach the end of the first section:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instead of turning to follow the line, begin turning the piece towards the waste area as you reach the tip of the wing, cutting very slightly into the waste area. This will be a pivot more than a cut. Once you begin pivoting the piece, very slightly lean the piece towards you so that the back of the blade is touching the wood, not the front cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the piece completely around so that you have tiny pocket in the waste area so that you can realign the blade to the line. Continue to cut along the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a short video here which will hopefully better illustrate this process. At the end of the video, when I was demonstrating the direction of the turn on the bat's ear, I said in error to turn in a *clockwise direction*. I meant in a *counter clockwise direction*, or toward the waste area. I think that an easier way to remember is to always turn towards the waste area when cutting points and outside corners like this. It is much easier than figuring clockwise and counter clockwise while you are cutting.
> 
> Below is the first video which illustrates the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will show you a video of the actual cutting. When you are practicing, I would suggest that you choose a larger piece of wood so that you have a bit more to hold on to. Although you need to follow the dotted lines at the top and the bottom of the bat if you are drilling, you can cut it on a wider piece and it will give you more waste area to hold and feel more comfortable for you.
> 
> You may also wish to use a thinner piece of wood to start out. I used a 5/8" piece of wood, but you may want to try 1/2". I also used poplar, which is a softer wood and I would suggest something like that or basswood to begin with. Something with an even grain works best. Of course you can use maple or other harder woods, but I would suggest you keep your pieces to about 3/8" or so until you are more comfortable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope these help you understand how I do sharp outside corners. Please feel free to ask me questions here on the forum. Chances are if you have questions, others may also be wondering the same thing. Maybe try a couple of practice pieces and then let me know what you think. I hope that I explained everything in a manner that you all can understand. I will be happy to clarify anything that I missed.
> 
> Remember too that it may take a little time to become comfortable with these techniques. I didn't learn them over night and I don't expect you will either. The main thing is to relax and have fun with them and pretty soon you won't even have to think about what you are doing.
> 
> I hope you enjoyed this lesson and learned something too. Thanks for reading.


It is one of your Mask patterns but the cut interests me 
for a gear cutting project that I have.
This is an awesome set of tutorials
Jamie


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Sharp (Acute) Outside Corners*
> 
> By now most of you should have a bit of a feel for cutting some nice outside curves on the scroll saw. As we know however, most designs also consist of some nice sharp angles. Making accurate corners can be a bit of a challenge when you are new to scroll sawing, but with a few quick tips and a little bit of practice, you will find it is not as difficult as you may have imagined. Before long you will be scrolling those angles with little effort or thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In order for me to show you some ideas I have on scroll sawing outside corners, I drew up a practice pattern by using and modifying part of the design from my Gothic Bats Candle Tray and Charms Set.
> 
> Since the bats in this design have many pointed areas, I thought they would be perfect for you to practice this technique on. I am also going to demonstrate how you can drill holes in the tops of them for hanging as ornaments or a garland. This technique can be used on many other types of projects and shapes and is very simple to do.
> 
> I have given you a couple of sizes of bats to practice on, so that you can try them with different thicknesses of wood and different blade sizes and it will give you a feel for this technique. You can download the pattern here at my Google Docs and print it out for yourself. Use the patterns for any personal use you wish. You can even cut out several for your kids to paint and play with.
> 
> Let's start with applying the pattern. Below is a quick review.
> 
> Start by applying some blue painter's tape to your piece of wood. For my sample piece, I used a piece of poplar that was just over 5/8" thick. (You may find it a little easier to use a piece of wood that is slightly thinner, like 3/8" - 1/2" when you are starting out.) You are going to line up the bottom dotted lines of the bat pattern on the straight or milled edge of your wood if you are planning on drilling a hole in the top o the bat to hang.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next apply temporary adhesive to the backs of the patterns pieces. Wait a couple of seconds until they are sticky and apply them to the wood, right over the top of the blue tape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you plan to drill a hole in the top of the bat, now is the time to do so. First, mark the center of the piece of wood with a pencil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then place the piece on your drill press and line up the bit with the vertical dotted line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole into the center of the piece at the depth you desire. You can drill just a quarter inch or so deep so that you can attach a hanger, or you can drill all the way through to the bottom to create a garland. As long as you have flat edges at the top and the bottom, it is a fairly easy procedure to do.
> 
> For our purposes here, I used an 1/8" drill bit. That way I could knot ribbon or yarn and put a drop of glue in the hole and push the knot in to secure it to hang my bats. However, you may want to drill all the way through to the bottom so you can string several bats together. By doing this step before you scroll your piece out, you will greatly minimize the chance of breaking the bottom of the bat or tearing it out with the drill bit.
> 
> You are now ready to start cutting. For this piece, I used a #2 blade. I chose to start on the end point of the bat's wing. That way when I come to the end, I can come out of the piece right at the tip of the point and not leave a mark like when we had only smooth edges to deal with. Begin cutting from the tip of the wing, going along the bottom edge. (I am working in a clockwise direction again. It is my personal preference to cut in this direction. You can cut either clockwise or counter clockwise - whichever is more comfortable to you)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue cutting until you reach the end of the first section:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instead of turning to follow the line, begin turning the piece towards the waste area as you reach the tip of the wing, cutting very slightly into the waste area. This will be a pivot more than a cut. Once you begin pivoting the piece, very slightly lean the piece towards you so that the back of the blade is touching the wood, not the front cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the piece completely around so that you have tiny pocket in the waste area so that you can realign the blade to the line. Continue to cut along the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a short video here which will hopefully better illustrate this process. At the end of the video, when I was demonstrating the direction of the turn on the bat's ear, I said in error to turn in a *clockwise direction*. I meant in a *counter clockwise direction*, or toward the waste area. I think that an easier way to remember is to always turn towards the waste area when cutting points and outside corners like this. It is much easier than figuring clockwise and counter clockwise while you are cutting.
> 
> Below is the first video which illustrates the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will show you a video of the actual cutting. When you are practicing, I would suggest that you choose a larger piece of wood so that you have a bit more to hold on to. Although you need to follow the dotted lines at the top and the bottom of the bat if you are drilling, you can cut it on a wider piece and it will give you more waste area to hold and feel more comfortable for you.
> 
> You may also wish to use a thinner piece of wood to start out. I used a 5/8" piece of wood, but you may want to try 1/2". I also used poplar, which is a softer wood and I would suggest something like that or basswood to begin with. Something with an even grain works best. Of course you can use maple or other harder woods, but I would suggest you keep your pieces to about 3/8" or so until you are more comfortable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope these help you understand how I do sharp outside corners. Please feel free to ask me questions here on the forum. Chances are if you have questions, others may also be wondering the same thing. Maybe try a couple of practice pieces and then let me know what you think. I hope that I explained everything in a manner that you all can understand. I will be happy to clarify anything that I missed.
> 
> Remember too that it may take a little time to become comfortable with these techniques. I didn't learn them over night and I don't expect you will either. The main thing is to relax and have fun with them and pretty soon you won't even have to think about what you are doing.
> 
> I hope you enjoyed this lesson and learned something too. Thanks for reading.


Jaime - The masks can be quite daunting to even a seasoned scroller, so if you are able to pull them off as your first project - Kudos to you!  ( I must be a great teacher! LOL) 

I always tell my students to look at a project "One hole at a time." Somehow if you can get your head to do that, you are able to tackle just about anything!

Carry on and ask away if you have any questions. Oh - and I expect some pictures of your work! 

Sheila


----------



## jake86

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Sharp (Acute) Outside Corners*
> 
> By now most of you should have a bit of a feel for cutting some nice outside curves on the scroll saw. As we know however, most designs also consist of some nice sharp angles. Making accurate corners can be a bit of a challenge when you are new to scroll sawing, but with a few quick tips and a little bit of practice, you will find it is not as difficult as you may have imagined. Before long you will be scrolling those angles with little effort or thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In order for me to show you some ideas I have on scroll sawing outside corners, I drew up a practice pattern by using and modifying part of the design from my Gothic Bats Candle Tray and Charms Set.
> 
> Since the bats in this design have many pointed areas, I thought they would be perfect for you to practice this technique on. I am also going to demonstrate how you can drill holes in the tops of them for hanging as ornaments or a garland. This technique can be used on many other types of projects and shapes and is very simple to do.
> 
> I have given you a couple of sizes of bats to practice on, so that you can try them with different thicknesses of wood and different blade sizes and it will give you a feel for this technique. You can download the pattern here at my Google Docs and print it out for yourself. Use the patterns for any personal use you wish. You can even cut out several for your kids to paint and play with.
> 
> Let's start with applying the pattern. Below is a quick review.
> 
> Start by applying some blue painter's tape to your piece of wood. For my sample piece, I used a piece of poplar that was just over 5/8" thick. (You may find it a little easier to use a piece of wood that is slightly thinner, like 3/8" - 1/2" when you are starting out.) You are going to line up the bottom dotted lines of the bat pattern on the straight or milled edge of your wood if you are planning on drilling a hole in the top o the bat to hang.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next apply temporary adhesive to the backs of the patterns pieces. Wait a couple of seconds until they are sticky and apply them to the wood, right over the top of the blue tape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you plan to drill a hole in the top of the bat, now is the time to do so. First, mark the center of the piece of wood with a pencil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then place the piece on your drill press and line up the bit with the vertical dotted line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole into the center of the piece at the depth you desire. You can drill just a quarter inch or so deep so that you can attach a hanger, or you can drill all the way through to the bottom to create a garland. As long as you have flat edges at the top and the bottom, it is a fairly easy procedure to do.
> 
> For our purposes here, I used an 1/8" drill bit. That way I could knot ribbon or yarn and put a drop of glue in the hole and push the knot in to secure it to hang my bats. However, you may want to drill all the way through to the bottom so you can string several bats together. By doing this step before you scroll your piece out, you will greatly minimize the chance of breaking the bottom of the bat or tearing it out with the drill bit.
> 
> You are now ready to start cutting. For this piece, I used a #2 blade. I chose to start on the end point of the bat's wing. That way when I come to the end, I can come out of the piece right at the tip of the point and not leave a mark like when we had only smooth edges to deal with. Begin cutting from the tip of the wing, going along the bottom edge. (I am working in a clockwise direction again. It is my personal preference to cut in this direction. You can cut either clockwise or counter clockwise - whichever is more comfortable to you)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue cutting until you reach the end of the first section:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instead of turning to follow the line, begin turning the piece towards the waste area as you reach the tip of the wing, cutting very slightly into the waste area. This will be a pivot more than a cut. Once you begin pivoting the piece, very slightly lean the piece towards you so that the back of the blade is touching the wood, not the front cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the piece completely around so that you have tiny pocket in the waste area so that you can realign the blade to the line. Continue to cut along the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a short video here which will hopefully better illustrate this process. At the end of the video, when I was demonstrating the direction of the turn on the bat's ear, I said in error to turn in a *clockwise direction*. I meant in a *counter clockwise direction*, or toward the waste area. I think that an easier way to remember is to always turn towards the waste area when cutting points and outside corners like this. It is much easier than figuring clockwise and counter clockwise while you are cutting.
> 
> Below is the first video which illustrates the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will show you a video of the actual cutting. When you are practicing, I would suggest that you choose a larger piece of wood so that you have a bit more to hold on to. Although you need to follow the dotted lines at the top and the bottom of the bat if you are drilling, you can cut it on a wider piece and it will give you more waste area to hold and feel more comfortable for you.
> 
> You may also wish to use a thinner piece of wood to start out. I used a 5/8" piece of wood, but you may want to try 1/2". I also used poplar, which is a softer wood and I would suggest something like that or basswood to begin with. Something with an even grain works best. Of course you can use maple or other harder woods, but I would suggest you keep your pieces to about 3/8" or so until you are more comfortable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope these help you understand how I do sharp outside corners. Please feel free to ask me questions here on the forum. Chances are if you have questions, others may also be wondering the same thing. Maybe try a couple of practice pieces and then let me know what you think. I hope that I explained everything in a manner that you all can understand. I will be happy to clarify anything that I missed.
> 
> Remember too that it may take a little time to become comfortable with these techniques. I didn't learn them over night and I don't expect you will either. The main thing is to relax and have fun with them and pretty soon you won't even have to think about what you are doing.
> 
> I hope you enjoyed this lesson and learned something too. Thanks for reading.


Hey Teach, here's my homework assignment. Plus some extra credit work. And now, I really want to say: "I want a Red Rider BB gun". for working so hard!

Live long and Prosper


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Sharp (Acute) Outside Corners*
> 
> By now most of you should have a bit of a feel for cutting some nice outside curves on the scroll saw. As we know however, most designs also consist of some nice sharp angles. Making accurate corners can be a bit of a challenge when you are new to scroll sawing, but with a few quick tips and a little bit of practice, you will find it is not as difficult as you may have imagined. Before long you will be scrolling those angles with little effort or thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In order for me to show you some ideas I have on scroll sawing outside corners, I drew up a practice pattern by using and modifying part of the design from my Gothic Bats Candle Tray and Charms Set.
> 
> Since the bats in this design have many pointed areas, I thought they would be perfect for you to practice this technique on. I am also going to demonstrate how you can drill holes in the tops of them for hanging as ornaments or a garland. This technique can be used on many other types of projects and shapes and is very simple to do.
> 
> I have given you a couple of sizes of bats to practice on, so that you can try them with different thicknesses of wood and different blade sizes and it will give you a feel for this technique. You can download the pattern here at my Google Docs and print it out for yourself. Use the patterns for any personal use you wish. You can even cut out several for your kids to paint and play with.
> 
> Let's start with applying the pattern. Below is a quick review.
> 
> Start by applying some blue painter's tape to your piece of wood. For my sample piece, I used a piece of poplar that was just over 5/8" thick. (You may find it a little easier to use a piece of wood that is slightly thinner, like 3/8" - 1/2" when you are starting out.) You are going to line up the bottom dotted lines of the bat pattern on the straight or milled edge of your wood if you are planning on drilling a hole in the top o the bat to hang.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next apply temporary adhesive to the backs of the patterns pieces. Wait a couple of seconds until they are sticky and apply them to the wood, right over the top of the blue tape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you plan to drill a hole in the top of the bat, now is the time to do so. First, mark the center of the piece of wood with a pencil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then place the piece on your drill press and line up the bit with the vertical dotted line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole into the center of the piece at the depth you desire. You can drill just a quarter inch or so deep so that you can attach a hanger, or you can drill all the way through to the bottom to create a garland. As long as you have flat edges at the top and the bottom, it is a fairly easy procedure to do.
> 
> For our purposes here, I used an 1/8" drill bit. That way I could knot ribbon or yarn and put a drop of glue in the hole and push the knot in to secure it to hang my bats. However, you may want to drill all the way through to the bottom so you can string several bats together. By doing this step before you scroll your piece out, you will greatly minimize the chance of breaking the bottom of the bat or tearing it out with the drill bit.
> 
> You are now ready to start cutting. For this piece, I used a #2 blade. I chose to start on the end point of the bat's wing. That way when I come to the end, I can come out of the piece right at the tip of the point and not leave a mark like when we had only smooth edges to deal with. Begin cutting from the tip of the wing, going along the bottom edge. (I am working in a clockwise direction again. It is my personal preference to cut in this direction. You can cut either clockwise or counter clockwise - whichever is more comfortable to you)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue cutting until you reach the end of the first section:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instead of turning to follow the line, begin turning the piece towards the waste area as you reach the tip of the wing, cutting very slightly into the waste area. This will be a pivot more than a cut. Once you begin pivoting the piece, very slightly lean the piece towards you so that the back of the blade is touching the wood, not the front cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the piece completely around so that you have tiny pocket in the waste area so that you can realign the blade to the line. Continue to cut along the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a short video here which will hopefully better illustrate this process. At the end of the video, when I was demonstrating the direction of the turn on the bat's ear, I said in error to turn in a *clockwise direction*. I meant in a *counter clockwise direction*, or toward the waste area. I think that an easier way to remember is to always turn towards the waste area when cutting points and outside corners like this. It is much easier than figuring clockwise and counter clockwise while you are cutting.
> 
> Below is the first video which illustrates the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will show you a video of the actual cutting. When you are practicing, I would suggest that you choose a larger piece of wood so that you have a bit more to hold on to. Although you need to follow the dotted lines at the top and the bottom of the bat if you are drilling, you can cut it on a wider piece and it will give you more waste area to hold and feel more comfortable for you.
> 
> You may also wish to use a thinner piece of wood to start out. I used a 5/8" piece of wood, but you may want to try 1/2". I also used poplar, which is a softer wood and I would suggest something like that or basswood to begin with. Something with an even grain works best. Of course you can use maple or other harder woods, but I would suggest you keep your pieces to about 3/8" or so until you are more comfortable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope these help you understand how I do sharp outside corners. Please feel free to ask me questions here on the forum. Chances are if you have questions, others may also be wondering the same thing. Maybe try a couple of practice pieces and then let me know what you think. I hope that I explained everything in a manner that you all can understand. I will be happy to clarify anything that I missed.
> 
> Remember too that it may take a little time to become comfortable with these techniques. I didn't learn them over night and I don't expect you will either. The main thing is to relax and have fun with them and pretty soon you won't even have to think about what you are doing.
> 
> I hope you enjoyed this lesson and learned something too. Thanks for reading.


You did a great job! Really and truly those look wonderful! But . . .










YOU'LL SHOOT YOUR EYE OUT!!!!!!!

 Thanks for sharing the pics!

Sheila


----------



## jake86

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Sharp (Acute) Outside Corners*
> 
> By now most of you should have a bit of a feel for cutting some nice outside curves on the scroll saw. As we know however, most designs also consist of some nice sharp angles. Making accurate corners can be a bit of a challenge when you are new to scroll sawing, but with a few quick tips and a little bit of practice, you will find it is not as difficult as you may have imagined. Before long you will be scrolling those angles with little effort or thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In order for me to show you some ideas I have on scroll sawing outside corners, I drew up a practice pattern by using and modifying part of the design from my Gothic Bats Candle Tray and Charms Set.
> 
> Since the bats in this design have many pointed areas, I thought they would be perfect for you to practice this technique on. I am also going to demonstrate how you can drill holes in the tops of them for hanging as ornaments or a garland. This technique can be used on many other types of projects and shapes and is very simple to do.
> 
> I have given you a couple of sizes of bats to practice on, so that you can try them with different thicknesses of wood and different blade sizes and it will give you a feel for this technique. You can download the pattern here at my Google Docs and print it out for yourself. Use the patterns for any personal use you wish. You can even cut out several for your kids to paint and play with.
> 
> Let's start with applying the pattern. Below is a quick review.
> 
> Start by applying some blue painter's tape to your piece of wood. For my sample piece, I used a piece of poplar that was just over 5/8" thick. (You may find it a little easier to use a piece of wood that is slightly thinner, like 3/8" - 1/2" when you are starting out.) You are going to line up the bottom dotted lines of the bat pattern on the straight or milled edge of your wood if you are planning on drilling a hole in the top o the bat to hang.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next apply temporary adhesive to the backs of the patterns pieces. Wait a couple of seconds until they are sticky and apply them to the wood, right over the top of the blue tape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you plan to drill a hole in the top of the bat, now is the time to do so. First, mark the center of the piece of wood with a pencil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then place the piece on your drill press and line up the bit with the vertical dotted line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole into the center of the piece at the depth you desire. You can drill just a quarter inch or so deep so that you can attach a hanger, or you can drill all the way through to the bottom to create a garland. As long as you have flat edges at the top and the bottom, it is a fairly easy procedure to do.
> 
> For our purposes here, I used an 1/8" drill bit. That way I could knot ribbon or yarn and put a drop of glue in the hole and push the knot in to secure it to hang my bats. However, you may want to drill all the way through to the bottom so you can string several bats together. By doing this step before you scroll your piece out, you will greatly minimize the chance of breaking the bottom of the bat or tearing it out with the drill bit.
> 
> You are now ready to start cutting. For this piece, I used a #2 blade. I chose to start on the end point of the bat's wing. That way when I come to the end, I can come out of the piece right at the tip of the point and not leave a mark like when we had only smooth edges to deal with. Begin cutting from the tip of the wing, going along the bottom edge. (I am working in a clockwise direction again. It is my personal preference to cut in this direction. You can cut either clockwise or counter clockwise - whichever is more comfortable to you)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue cutting until you reach the end of the first section:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instead of turning to follow the line, begin turning the piece towards the waste area as you reach the tip of the wing, cutting very slightly into the waste area. This will be a pivot more than a cut. Once you begin pivoting the piece, very slightly lean the piece towards you so that the back of the blade is touching the wood, not the front cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the piece completely around so that you have tiny pocket in the waste area so that you can realign the blade to the line. Continue to cut along the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a short video here which will hopefully better illustrate this process. At the end of the video, when I was demonstrating the direction of the turn on the bat's ear, I said in error to turn in a *clockwise direction*. I meant in a *counter clockwise direction*, or toward the waste area. I think that an easier way to remember is to always turn towards the waste area when cutting points and outside corners like this. It is much easier than figuring clockwise and counter clockwise while you are cutting.
> 
> Below is the first video which illustrates the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will show you a video of the actual cutting. When you are practicing, I would suggest that you choose a larger piece of wood so that you have a bit more to hold on to. Although you need to follow the dotted lines at the top and the bottom of the bat if you are drilling, you can cut it on a wider piece and it will give you more waste area to hold and feel more comfortable for you.
> 
> You may also wish to use a thinner piece of wood to start out. I used a 5/8" piece of wood, but you may want to try 1/2". I also used poplar, which is a softer wood and I would suggest something like that or basswood to begin with. Something with an even grain works best. Of course you can use maple or other harder woods, but I would suggest you keep your pieces to about 3/8" or so until you are more comfortable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope these help you understand how I do sharp outside corners. Please feel free to ask me questions here on the forum. Chances are if you have questions, others may also be wondering the same thing. Maybe try a couple of practice pieces and then let me know what you think. I hope that I explained everything in a manner that you all can understand. I will be happy to clarify anything that I missed.
> 
> Remember too that it may take a little time to become comfortable with these techniques. I didn't learn them over night and I don't expect you will either. The main thing is to relax and have fun with them and pretty soon you won't even have to think about what you are doing.
> 
> I hope you enjoyed this lesson and learned something too. Thanks for reading.


Thanks for all my smiles! Today, I attempt lesson #7. Thanks again for such wonderful teaching.

Live long & prosper


----------



## byrdman61

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Sharp (Acute) Outside Corners*
> 
> By now most of you should have a bit of a feel for cutting some nice outside curves on the scroll saw. As we know however, most designs also consist of some nice sharp angles. Making accurate corners can be a bit of a challenge when you are new to scroll sawing, but with a few quick tips and a little bit of practice, you will find it is not as difficult as you may have imagined. Before long you will be scrolling those angles with little effort or thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In order for me to show you some ideas I have on scroll sawing outside corners, I drew up a practice pattern by using and modifying part of the design from my Gothic Bats Candle Tray and Charms Set.
> 
> Since the bats in this design have many pointed areas, I thought they would be perfect for you to practice this technique on. I am also going to demonstrate how you can drill holes in the tops of them for hanging as ornaments or a garland. This technique can be used on many other types of projects and shapes and is very simple to do.
> 
> I have given you a couple of sizes of bats to practice on, so that you can try them with different thicknesses of wood and different blade sizes and it will give you a feel for this technique. You can download the pattern here at my Google Docs and print it out for yourself. Use the patterns for any personal use you wish. You can even cut out several for your kids to paint and play with.
> 
> Let's start with applying the pattern. Below is a quick review.
> 
> Start by applying some blue painter's tape to your piece of wood. For my sample piece, I used a piece of poplar that was just over 5/8" thick. (You may find it a little easier to use a piece of wood that is slightly thinner, like 3/8" - 1/2" when you are starting out.) You are going to line up the bottom dotted lines of the bat pattern on the straight or milled edge of your wood if you are planning on drilling a hole in the top o the bat to hang.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next apply temporary adhesive to the backs of the patterns pieces. Wait a couple of seconds until they are sticky and apply them to the wood, right over the top of the blue tape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you plan to drill a hole in the top of the bat, now is the time to do so. First, mark the center of the piece of wood with a pencil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then place the piece on your drill press and line up the bit with the vertical dotted line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole into the center of the piece at the depth you desire. You can drill just a quarter inch or so deep so that you can attach a hanger, or you can drill all the way through to the bottom to create a garland. As long as you have flat edges at the top and the bottom, it is a fairly easy procedure to do.
> 
> For our purposes here, I used an 1/8" drill bit. That way I could knot ribbon or yarn and put a drop of glue in the hole and push the knot in to secure it to hang my bats. However, you may want to drill all the way through to the bottom so you can string several bats together. By doing this step before you scroll your piece out, you will greatly minimize the chance of breaking the bottom of the bat or tearing it out with the drill bit.
> 
> You are now ready to start cutting. For this piece, I used a #2 blade. I chose to start on the end point of the bat's wing. That way when I come to the end, I can come out of the piece right at the tip of the point and not leave a mark like when we had only smooth edges to deal with. Begin cutting from the tip of the wing, going along the bottom edge. (I am working in a clockwise direction again. It is my personal preference to cut in this direction. You can cut either clockwise or counter clockwise - whichever is more comfortable to you)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue cutting until you reach the end of the first section:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instead of turning to follow the line, begin turning the piece towards the waste area as you reach the tip of the wing, cutting very slightly into the waste area. This will be a pivot more than a cut. Once you begin pivoting the piece, very slightly lean the piece towards you so that the back of the blade is touching the wood, not the front cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the piece completely around so that you have tiny pocket in the waste area so that you can realign the blade to the line. Continue to cut along the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a short video here which will hopefully better illustrate this process. At the end of the video, when I was demonstrating the direction of the turn on the bat's ear, I said in error to turn in a *clockwise direction*. I meant in a *counter clockwise direction*, or toward the waste area. I think that an easier way to remember is to always turn towards the waste area when cutting points and outside corners like this. It is much easier than figuring clockwise and counter clockwise while you are cutting.
> 
> Below is the first video which illustrates the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will show you a video of the actual cutting. When you are practicing, I would suggest that you choose a larger piece of wood so that you have a bit more to hold on to. Although you need to follow the dotted lines at the top and the bottom of the bat if you are drilling, you can cut it on a wider piece and it will give you more waste area to hold and feel more comfortable for you.
> 
> You may also wish to use a thinner piece of wood to start out. I used a 5/8" piece of wood, but you may want to try 1/2". I also used poplar, which is a softer wood and I would suggest something like that or basswood to begin with. Something with an even grain works best. Of course you can use maple or other harder woods, but I would suggest you keep your pieces to about 3/8" or so until you are more comfortable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope these help you understand how I do sharp outside corners. Please feel free to ask me questions here on the forum. Chances are if you have questions, others may also be wondering the same thing. Maybe try a couple of practice pieces and then let me know what you think. I hope that I explained everything in a manner that you all can understand. I will be happy to clarify anything that I missed.
> 
> Remember too that it may take a little time to become comfortable with these techniques. I didn't learn them over night and I don't expect you will either. The main thing is to relax and have fun with them and pretty soon you won't even have to think about what you are doing.
> 
> I hope you enjoyed this lesson and learned something too. Thanks for reading.


I am really enjoying your lessons Sheila. I am so glad that I found this site. I will be posting the self framing fretwork cross soon. Thanks Again, Sincerely, Harry.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Sharp (Acute) Outside Corners*
> 
> By now most of you should have a bit of a feel for cutting some nice outside curves on the scroll saw. As we know however, most designs also consist of some nice sharp angles. Making accurate corners can be a bit of a challenge when you are new to scroll sawing, but with a few quick tips and a little bit of practice, you will find it is not as difficult as you may have imagined. Before long you will be scrolling those angles with little effort or thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In order for me to show you some ideas I have on scroll sawing outside corners, I drew up a practice pattern by using and modifying part of the design from my Gothic Bats Candle Tray and Charms Set.
> 
> Since the bats in this design have many pointed areas, I thought they would be perfect for you to practice this technique on. I am also going to demonstrate how you can drill holes in the tops of them for hanging as ornaments or a garland. This technique can be used on many other types of projects and shapes and is very simple to do.
> 
> I have given you a couple of sizes of bats to practice on, so that you can try them with different thicknesses of wood and different blade sizes and it will give you a feel for this technique. You can download the pattern here at my Google Docs and print it out for yourself. Use the patterns for any personal use you wish. You can even cut out several for your kids to paint and play with.
> 
> Let's start with applying the pattern. Below is a quick review.
> 
> Start by applying some blue painter's tape to your piece of wood. For my sample piece, I used a piece of poplar that was just over 5/8" thick. (You may find it a little easier to use a piece of wood that is slightly thinner, like 3/8" - 1/2" when you are starting out.) You are going to line up the bottom dotted lines of the bat pattern on the straight or milled edge of your wood if you are planning on drilling a hole in the top o the bat to hang.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next apply temporary adhesive to the backs of the patterns pieces. Wait a couple of seconds until they are sticky and apply them to the wood, right over the top of the blue tape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you plan to drill a hole in the top of the bat, now is the time to do so. First, mark the center of the piece of wood with a pencil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then place the piece on your drill press and line up the bit with the vertical dotted line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole into the center of the piece at the depth you desire. You can drill just a quarter inch or so deep so that you can attach a hanger, or you can drill all the way through to the bottom to create a garland. As long as you have flat edges at the top and the bottom, it is a fairly easy procedure to do.
> 
> For our purposes here, I used an 1/8" drill bit. That way I could knot ribbon or yarn and put a drop of glue in the hole and push the knot in to secure it to hang my bats. However, you may want to drill all the way through to the bottom so you can string several bats together. By doing this step before you scroll your piece out, you will greatly minimize the chance of breaking the bottom of the bat or tearing it out with the drill bit.
> 
> You are now ready to start cutting. For this piece, I used a #2 blade. I chose to start on the end point of the bat's wing. That way when I come to the end, I can come out of the piece right at the tip of the point and not leave a mark like when we had only smooth edges to deal with. Begin cutting from the tip of the wing, going along the bottom edge. (I am working in a clockwise direction again. It is my personal preference to cut in this direction. You can cut either clockwise or counter clockwise - whichever is more comfortable to you)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue cutting until you reach the end of the first section:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instead of turning to follow the line, begin turning the piece towards the waste area as you reach the tip of the wing, cutting very slightly into the waste area. This will be a pivot more than a cut. Once you begin pivoting the piece, very slightly lean the piece towards you so that the back of the blade is touching the wood, not the front cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the piece completely around so that you have tiny pocket in the waste area so that you can realign the blade to the line. Continue to cut along the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a short video here which will hopefully better illustrate this process. At the end of the video, when I was demonstrating the direction of the turn on the bat's ear, I said in error to turn in a *clockwise direction*. I meant in a *counter clockwise direction*, or toward the waste area. I think that an easier way to remember is to always turn towards the waste area when cutting points and outside corners like this. It is much easier than figuring clockwise and counter clockwise while you are cutting.
> 
> Below is the first video which illustrates the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will show you a video of the actual cutting. When you are practicing, I would suggest that you choose a larger piece of wood so that you have a bit more to hold on to. Although you need to follow the dotted lines at the top and the bottom of the bat if you are drilling, you can cut it on a wider piece and it will give you more waste area to hold and feel more comfortable for you.
> 
> You may also wish to use a thinner piece of wood to start out. I used a 5/8" piece of wood, but you may want to try 1/2". I also used poplar, which is a softer wood and I would suggest something like that or basswood to begin with. Something with an even grain works best. Of course you can use maple or other harder woods, but I would suggest you keep your pieces to about 3/8" or so until you are more comfortable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope these help you understand how I do sharp outside corners. Please feel free to ask me questions here on the forum. Chances are if you have questions, others may also be wondering the same thing. Maybe try a couple of practice pieces and then let me know what you think. I hope that I explained everything in a manner that you all can understand. I will be happy to clarify anything that I missed.
> 
> Remember too that it may take a little time to become comfortable with these techniques. I didn't learn them over night and I don't expect you will either. The main thing is to relax and have fun with them and pretty soon you won't even have to think about what you are doing.
> 
> I hope you enjoyed this lesson and learned something too. Thanks for reading.


You are welcome Harry. I am happy you are enjoying it.  I look forward to seeing your cross plaque. 

Sheila


----------



## JustJoe

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Sharp (Acute) Outside Corners*
> 
> By now most of you should have a bit of a feel for cutting some nice outside curves on the scroll saw. As we know however, most designs also consist of some nice sharp angles. Making accurate corners can be a bit of a challenge when you are new to scroll sawing, but with a few quick tips and a little bit of practice, you will find it is not as difficult as you may have imagined. Before long you will be scrolling those angles with little effort or thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In order for me to show you some ideas I have on scroll sawing outside corners, I drew up a practice pattern by using and modifying part of the design from my Gothic Bats Candle Tray and Charms Set.
> 
> Since the bats in this design have many pointed areas, I thought they would be perfect for you to practice this technique on. I am also going to demonstrate how you can drill holes in the tops of them for hanging as ornaments or a garland. This technique can be used on many other types of projects and shapes and is very simple to do.
> 
> I have given you a couple of sizes of bats to practice on, so that you can try them with different thicknesses of wood and different blade sizes and it will give you a feel for this technique. You can download the pattern here at my Google Docs and print it out for yourself. Use the patterns for any personal use you wish. You can even cut out several for your kids to paint and play with.
> 
> Let's start with applying the pattern. Below is a quick review.
> 
> Start by applying some blue painter's tape to your piece of wood. For my sample piece, I used a piece of poplar that was just over 5/8" thick. (You may find it a little easier to use a piece of wood that is slightly thinner, like 3/8" - 1/2" when you are starting out.) You are going to line up the bottom dotted lines of the bat pattern on the straight or milled edge of your wood if you are planning on drilling a hole in the top o the bat to hang.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next apply temporary adhesive to the backs of the patterns pieces. Wait a couple of seconds until they are sticky and apply them to the wood, right over the top of the blue tape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you plan to drill a hole in the top of the bat, now is the time to do so. First, mark the center of the piece of wood with a pencil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then place the piece on your drill press and line up the bit with the vertical dotted line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole into the center of the piece at the depth you desire. You can drill just a quarter inch or so deep so that you can attach a hanger, or you can drill all the way through to the bottom to create a garland. As long as you have flat edges at the top and the bottom, it is a fairly easy procedure to do.
> 
> For our purposes here, I used an 1/8" drill bit. That way I could knot ribbon or yarn and put a drop of glue in the hole and push the knot in to secure it to hang my bats. However, you may want to drill all the way through to the bottom so you can string several bats together. By doing this step before you scroll your piece out, you will greatly minimize the chance of breaking the bottom of the bat or tearing it out with the drill bit.
> 
> You are now ready to start cutting. For this piece, I used a #2 blade. I chose to start on the end point of the bat's wing. That way when I come to the end, I can come out of the piece right at the tip of the point and not leave a mark like when we had only smooth edges to deal with. Begin cutting from the tip of the wing, going along the bottom edge. (I am working in a clockwise direction again. It is my personal preference to cut in this direction. You can cut either clockwise or counter clockwise - whichever is more comfortable to you)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue cutting until you reach the end of the first section:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instead of turning to follow the line, begin turning the piece towards the waste area as you reach the tip of the wing, cutting very slightly into the waste area. This will be a pivot more than a cut. Once you begin pivoting the piece, very slightly lean the piece towards you so that the back of the blade is touching the wood, not the front cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the piece completely around so that you have tiny pocket in the waste area so that you can realign the blade to the line. Continue to cut along the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a short video here which will hopefully better illustrate this process. At the end of the video, when I was demonstrating the direction of the turn on the bat's ear, I said in error to turn in a *clockwise direction*. I meant in a *counter clockwise direction*, or toward the waste area. I think that an easier way to remember is to always turn towards the waste area when cutting points and outside corners like this. It is much easier than figuring clockwise and counter clockwise while you are cutting.
> 
> Below is the first video which illustrates the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will show you a video of the actual cutting. When you are practicing, I would suggest that you choose a larger piece of wood so that you have a bit more to hold on to. Although you need to follow the dotted lines at the top and the bottom of the bat if you are drilling, you can cut it on a wider piece and it will give you more waste area to hold and feel more comfortable for you.
> 
> You may also wish to use a thinner piece of wood to start out. I used a 5/8" piece of wood, but you may want to try 1/2". I also used poplar, which is a softer wood and I would suggest something like that or basswood to begin with. Something with an even grain works best. Of course you can use maple or other harder woods, but I would suggest you keep your pieces to about 3/8" or so until you are more comfortable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope these help you understand how I do sharp outside corners. Please feel free to ask me questions here on the forum. Chances are if you have questions, others may also be wondering the same thing. Maybe try a couple of practice pieces and then let me know what you think. I hope that I explained everything in a manner that you all can understand. I will be happy to clarify anything that I missed.
> 
> Remember too that it may take a little time to become comfortable with these techniques. I didn't learn them over night and I don't expect you will either. The main thing is to relax and have fun with them and pretty soon you won't even have to think about what you are doing.
> 
> I hope you enjoyed this lesson and learned something too. Thanks for reading.


Sheila - I'm a couple of years late to the class and I'm stuck on this lesson. I've read it and re-read it and it's just not clicking and it seems the videos are no longer there, or I'm not seeing the link. I scroll along until I get to the pointy part of the bat. At that point I don't just twist the board hard around and continue on down the line. That's where I'm stuck. Instead of a hard pivot I do what? 
If you get a chance (my saw won't arrive for another 8 days) could you please explain it again in terms my dense head can absorb? Thanks!


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Sharp (Acute) Outside Corners*
> 
> By now most of you should have a bit of a feel for cutting some nice outside curves on the scroll saw. As we know however, most designs also consist of some nice sharp angles. Making accurate corners can be a bit of a challenge when you are new to scroll sawing, but with a few quick tips and a little bit of practice, you will find it is not as difficult as you may have imagined. Before long you will be scrolling those angles with little effort or thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In order for me to show you some ideas I have on scroll sawing outside corners, I drew up a practice pattern by using and modifying part of the design from my Gothic Bats Candle Tray and Charms Set.
> 
> Since the bats in this design have many pointed areas, I thought they would be perfect for you to practice this technique on. I am also going to demonstrate how you can drill holes in the tops of them for hanging as ornaments or a garland. This technique can be used on many other types of projects and shapes and is very simple to do.
> 
> I have given you a couple of sizes of bats to practice on, so that you can try them with different thicknesses of wood and different blade sizes and it will give you a feel for this technique. You can download the pattern here at my Google Docs and print it out for yourself. Use the patterns for any personal use you wish. You can even cut out several for your kids to paint and play with.
> 
> Let's start with applying the pattern. Below is a quick review.
> 
> Start by applying some blue painter's tape to your piece of wood. For my sample piece, I used a piece of poplar that was just over 5/8" thick. (You may find it a little easier to use a piece of wood that is slightly thinner, like 3/8" - 1/2" when you are starting out.) You are going to line up the bottom dotted lines of the bat pattern on the straight or milled edge of your wood if you are planning on drilling a hole in the top o the bat to hang.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next apply temporary adhesive to the backs of the patterns pieces. Wait a couple of seconds until they are sticky and apply them to the wood, right over the top of the blue tape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you plan to drill a hole in the top of the bat, now is the time to do so. First, mark the center of the piece of wood with a pencil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then place the piece on your drill press and line up the bit with the vertical dotted line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole into the center of the piece at the depth you desire. You can drill just a quarter inch or so deep so that you can attach a hanger, or you can drill all the way through to the bottom to create a garland. As long as you have flat edges at the top and the bottom, it is a fairly easy procedure to do.
> 
> For our purposes here, I used an 1/8" drill bit. That way I could knot ribbon or yarn and put a drop of glue in the hole and push the knot in to secure it to hang my bats. However, you may want to drill all the way through to the bottom so you can string several bats together. By doing this step before you scroll your piece out, you will greatly minimize the chance of breaking the bottom of the bat or tearing it out with the drill bit.
> 
> You are now ready to start cutting. For this piece, I used a #2 blade. I chose to start on the end point of the bat's wing. That way when I come to the end, I can come out of the piece right at the tip of the point and not leave a mark like when we had only smooth edges to deal with. Begin cutting from the tip of the wing, going along the bottom edge. (I am working in a clockwise direction again. It is my personal preference to cut in this direction. You can cut either clockwise or counter clockwise - whichever is more comfortable to you)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue cutting until you reach the end of the first section:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instead of turning to follow the line, begin turning the piece towards the waste area as you reach the tip of the wing, cutting very slightly into the waste area. This will be a pivot more than a cut. Once you begin pivoting the piece, very slightly lean the piece towards you so that the back of the blade is touching the wood, not the front cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the piece completely around so that you have tiny pocket in the waste area so that you can realign the blade to the line. Continue to cut along the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a short video here which will hopefully better illustrate this process. At the end of the video, when I was demonstrating the direction of the turn on the bat's ear, I said in error to turn in a *clockwise direction*. I meant in a *counter clockwise direction*, or toward the waste area. I think that an easier way to remember is to always turn towards the waste area when cutting points and outside corners like this. It is much easier than figuring clockwise and counter clockwise while you are cutting.
> 
> Below is the first video which illustrates the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will show you a video of the actual cutting. When you are practicing, I would suggest that you choose a larger piece of wood so that you have a bit more to hold on to. Although you need to follow the dotted lines at the top and the bottom of the bat if you are drilling, you can cut it on a wider piece and it will give you more waste area to hold and feel more comfortable for you.
> 
> You may also wish to use a thinner piece of wood to start out. I used a 5/8" piece of wood, but you may want to try 1/2". I also used poplar, which is a softer wood and I would suggest something like that or basswood to begin with. Something with an even grain works best. Of course you can use maple or other harder woods, but I would suggest you keep your pieces to about 3/8" or so until you are more comfortable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope these help you understand how I do sharp outside corners. Please feel free to ask me questions here on the forum. Chances are if you have questions, others may also be wondering the same thing. Maybe try a couple of practice pieces and then let me know what you think. I hope that I explained everything in a manner that you all can understand. I will be happy to clarify anything that I missed.
> 
> Remember too that it may take a little time to become comfortable with these techniques. I didn't learn them over night and I don't expect you will either. The main thing is to relax and have fun with them and pretty soon you won't even have to think about what you are doing.
> 
> I hope you enjoyed this lesson and learned something too. Thanks for reading.


Hi, Joe:
I know that LJ's had some trouble with videos a while back. I re-entered the link above. It should work now. Just let me know. 

Sheila


----------



## JustJoe

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Sharp (Acute) Outside Corners*
> 
> By now most of you should have a bit of a feel for cutting some nice outside curves on the scroll saw. As we know however, most designs also consist of some nice sharp angles. Making accurate corners can be a bit of a challenge when you are new to scroll sawing, but with a few quick tips and a little bit of practice, you will find it is not as difficult as you may have imagined. Before long you will be scrolling those angles with little effort or thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In order for me to show you some ideas I have on scroll sawing outside corners, I drew up a practice pattern by using and modifying part of the design from my Gothic Bats Candle Tray and Charms Set.
> 
> Since the bats in this design have many pointed areas, I thought they would be perfect for you to practice this technique on. I am also going to demonstrate how you can drill holes in the tops of them for hanging as ornaments or a garland. This technique can be used on many other types of projects and shapes and is very simple to do.
> 
> I have given you a couple of sizes of bats to practice on, so that you can try them with different thicknesses of wood and different blade sizes and it will give you a feel for this technique. You can download the pattern here at my Google Docs and print it out for yourself. Use the patterns for any personal use you wish. You can even cut out several for your kids to paint and play with.
> 
> Let's start with applying the pattern. Below is a quick review.
> 
> Start by applying some blue painter's tape to your piece of wood. For my sample piece, I used a piece of poplar that was just over 5/8" thick. (You may find it a little easier to use a piece of wood that is slightly thinner, like 3/8" - 1/2" when you are starting out.) You are going to line up the bottom dotted lines of the bat pattern on the straight or milled edge of your wood if you are planning on drilling a hole in the top o the bat to hang.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next apply temporary adhesive to the backs of the patterns pieces. Wait a couple of seconds until they are sticky and apply them to the wood, right over the top of the blue tape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you plan to drill a hole in the top of the bat, now is the time to do so. First, mark the center of the piece of wood with a pencil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then place the piece on your drill press and line up the bit with the vertical dotted line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole into the center of the piece at the depth you desire. You can drill just a quarter inch or so deep so that you can attach a hanger, or you can drill all the way through to the bottom to create a garland. As long as you have flat edges at the top and the bottom, it is a fairly easy procedure to do.
> 
> For our purposes here, I used an 1/8" drill bit. That way I could knot ribbon or yarn and put a drop of glue in the hole and push the knot in to secure it to hang my bats. However, you may want to drill all the way through to the bottom so you can string several bats together. By doing this step before you scroll your piece out, you will greatly minimize the chance of breaking the bottom of the bat or tearing it out with the drill bit.
> 
> You are now ready to start cutting. For this piece, I used a #2 blade. I chose to start on the end point of the bat's wing. That way when I come to the end, I can come out of the piece right at the tip of the point and not leave a mark like when we had only smooth edges to deal with. Begin cutting from the tip of the wing, going along the bottom edge. (I am working in a clockwise direction again. It is my personal preference to cut in this direction. You can cut either clockwise or counter clockwise - whichever is more comfortable to you)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue cutting until you reach the end of the first section:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instead of turning to follow the line, begin turning the piece towards the waste area as you reach the tip of the wing, cutting very slightly into the waste area. This will be a pivot more than a cut. Once you begin pivoting the piece, very slightly lean the piece towards you so that the back of the blade is touching the wood, not the front cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the piece completely around so that you have tiny pocket in the waste area so that you can realign the blade to the line. Continue to cut along the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a short video here which will hopefully better illustrate this process. At the end of the video, when I was demonstrating the direction of the turn on the bat's ear, I said in error to turn in a *clockwise direction*. I meant in a *counter clockwise direction*, or toward the waste area. I think that an easier way to remember is to always turn towards the waste area when cutting points and outside corners like this. It is much easier than figuring clockwise and counter clockwise while you are cutting.
> 
> Below is the first video which illustrates the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will show you a video of the actual cutting. When you are practicing, I would suggest that you choose a larger piece of wood so that you have a bit more to hold on to. Although you need to follow the dotted lines at the top and the bottom of the bat if you are drilling, you can cut it on a wider piece and it will give you more waste area to hold and feel more comfortable for you.
> 
> You may also wish to use a thinner piece of wood to start out. I used a 5/8" piece of wood, but you may want to try 1/2". I also used poplar, which is a softer wood and I would suggest something like that or basswood to begin with. Something with an even grain works best. Of course you can use maple or other harder woods, but I would suggest you keep your pieces to about 3/8" or so until you are more comfortable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope these help you understand how I do sharp outside corners. Please feel free to ask me questions here on the forum. Chances are if you have questions, others may also be wondering the same thing. Maybe try a couple of practice pieces and then let me know what you think. I hope that I explained everything in a manner that you all can understand. I will be happy to clarify anything that I missed.
> 
> Remember too that it may take a little time to become comfortable with these techniques. I didn't learn them over night and I don't expect you will either. The main thing is to relax and have fun with them and pretty soon you won't even have to think about what you are doing.
> 
> I hope you enjoyed this lesson and learned something too. Thanks for reading.


Got it! The little loop you show at 1:03 in the video is what confused me, but now it's clear. 
Thanks for reposting the link so quickly!


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Sharp (Acute) Outside Corners*
> 
> By now most of you should have a bit of a feel for cutting some nice outside curves on the scroll saw. As we know however, most designs also consist of some nice sharp angles. Making accurate corners can be a bit of a challenge when you are new to scroll sawing, but with a few quick tips and a little bit of practice, you will find it is not as difficult as you may have imagined. Before long you will be scrolling those angles with little effort or thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In order for me to show you some ideas I have on scroll sawing outside corners, I drew up a practice pattern by using and modifying part of the design from my Gothic Bats Candle Tray and Charms Set.
> 
> Since the bats in this design have many pointed areas, I thought they would be perfect for you to practice this technique on. I am also going to demonstrate how you can drill holes in the tops of them for hanging as ornaments or a garland. This technique can be used on many other types of projects and shapes and is very simple to do.
> 
> I have given you a couple of sizes of bats to practice on, so that you can try them with different thicknesses of wood and different blade sizes and it will give you a feel for this technique. You can download the pattern here at my Google Docs and print it out for yourself. Use the patterns for any personal use you wish. You can even cut out several for your kids to paint and play with.
> 
> Let's start with applying the pattern. Below is a quick review.
> 
> Start by applying some blue painter's tape to your piece of wood. For my sample piece, I used a piece of poplar that was just over 5/8" thick. (You may find it a little easier to use a piece of wood that is slightly thinner, like 3/8" - 1/2" when you are starting out.) You are going to line up the bottom dotted lines of the bat pattern on the straight or milled edge of your wood if you are planning on drilling a hole in the top o the bat to hang.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next apply temporary adhesive to the backs of the patterns pieces. Wait a couple of seconds until they are sticky and apply them to the wood, right over the top of the blue tape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you plan to drill a hole in the top of the bat, now is the time to do so. First, mark the center of the piece of wood with a pencil:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then place the piece on your drill press and line up the bit with the vertical dotted line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole into the center of the piece at the depth you desire. You can drill just a quarter inch or so deep so that you can attach a hanger, or you can drill all the way through to the bottom to create a garland. As long as you have flat edges at the top and the bottom, it is a fairly easy procedure to do.
> 
> For our purposes here, I used an 1/8" drill bit. That way I could knot ribbon or yarn and put a drop of glue in the hole and push the knot in to secure it to hang my bats. However, you may want to drill all the way through to the bottom so you can string several bats together. By doing this step before you scroll your piece out, you will greatly minimize the chance of breaking the bottom of the bat or tearing it out with the drill bit.
> 
> You are now ready to start cutting. For this piece, I used a #2 blade. I chose to start on the end point of the bat's wing. That way when I come to the end, I can come out of the piece right at the tip of the point and not leave a mark like when we had only smooth edges to deal with. Begin cutting from the tip of the wing, going along the bottom edge. (I am working in a clockwise direction again. It is my personal preference to cut in this direction. You can cut either clockwise or counter clockwise - whichever is more comfortable to you)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue cutting until you reach the end of the first section:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instead of turning to follow the line, begin turning the piece towards the waste area as you reach the tip of the wing, cutting very slightly into the waste area. This will be a pivot more than a cut. Once you begin pivoting the piece, very slightly lean the piece towards you so that the back of the blade is touching the wood, not the front cutting edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn the piece completely around so that you have tiny pocket in the waste area so that you can realign the blade to the line. Continue to cut along the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a short video here which will hopefully better illustrate this process. At the end of the video, when I was demonstrating the direction of the turn on the bat's ear, I said in error to turn in a *clockwise direction*. I meant in a *counter clockwise direction*, or toward the waste area. I think that an easier way to remember is to always turn towards the waste area when cutting points and outside corners like this. It is much easier than figuring clockwise and counter clockwise while you are cutting.
> 
> Below is the first video which illustrates the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I will show you a video of the actual cutting. When you are practicing, I would suggest that you choose a larger piece of wood so that you have a bit more to hold on to. Although you need to follow the dotted lines at the top and the bottom of the bat if you are drilling, you can cut it on a wider piece and it will give you more waste area to hold and feel more comfortable for you.
> 
> You may also wish to use a thinner piece of wood to start out. I used a 5/8" piece of wood, but you may want to try 1/2". I also used poplar, which is a softer wood and I would suggest something like that or basswood to begin with. Something with an even grain works best. Of course you can use maple or other harder woods, but I would suggest you keep your pieces to about 3/8" or so until you are more comfortable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope these help you understand how I do sharp outside corners. Please feel free to ask me questions here on the forum. Chances are if you have questions, others may also be wondering the same thing. Maybe try a couple of practice pieces and then let me know what you think. I hope that I explained everything in a manner that you all can understand. I will be happy to clarify anything that I missed.
> 
> Remember too that it may take a little time to become comfortable with these techniques. I didn't learn them over night and I don't expect you will either. The main thing is to relax and have fun with them and pretty soon you won't even have to think about what you are doing.
> 
> I hope you enjoyed this lesson and learned something too. Thanks for reading.


You are welcome. I didn't know it wasn't working. I will check the other links later on today but if you need them sooner, just email me and I will repost them. 

Sheila


----------



## scrollgirl

*Cutting Inside Corners and Angles*

So far we have looked at how to prepare our wood, choose a blade, cast on and off a piece and cut outside curves and corners. Now it is time we do some inside cutting.










Most people associate scroll sawing with cutting fretwork. At first many people don't understand that in order to cut fretwork pieces, you need to drill entry holes in the 'waste area' (or the part of the pattern that drops away when you finish your cut) and thread the blade through that drilled hole to cut out the inside piece. This is why it is so important to many scroll sawyers to have a scroll saw that uses *pinless *blades, or blades that have flat ends and attach to the scroll saw by a chuck or a screw squeezing the blade tight to hold it in place while you are cutting.

Many older and industrial saws used *pin ended blades. *. These are blades have a small pin going through the end of them and look kind of like a 't'.










The end of the blade rests in some sort of channel on the end of the arm of the scroll saw and the tension is then tightened to hold the blade in place. While this is an effective way to hold the blade in the saw, it is not always the most practical when doing decorative and delicate scroll saw work.

The pins at the end of the blades mean that in order to thread the blade through the wood, you would need a much wider entry hole in order to do so. This may be acceptable if you are doing larger pieces, such as fretwork brackets for shelves and trim work, but if you are doing smaller items such as ornaments and other delicate work, you will find that having to use pin ended blades will severely limit the scope of the work you can do. It is for that reason that I highly recommend using a saw that uses pinless blades. Most of the newer saws on the market today fall into this category.

I often am asked questions as to where to drill the entry holes in a project. While you can certainly drill them anywhere convenient in the waste area, there are usually some better choices that will minimize the time and effort in making a piece.

When I have a piece with lots of sharp corners, I like to start cutting fairly close a corner. For the same reasons that we started in a corner when doing an outside cut, I feel that it is also best to do so when making an inside cut. The place where we enter and exit our cuts sometimes makes a small bump, and I feel that by starting in an inconspicuous area near a corner, even if there is a small ridge where we enter and exit, it will be very difficult if not impossible to see.

For this lesson, I have prepared a practice pattern that has lots of sharp inside cuts. You can download the pattern at my Google Documents file here:

Lesson 7 Practice Sheet

This is part of a pattern for a self-framing plaque that I designed. It is a pattern that I sell on my site, but I enlarged it a bit so that it would be a little easier for you to practice on. For this lesson, we are only going to work on the frame of the project so I only included that part on the pattern. Next time we will be working on the inside cuts and I will have that part of the pattern for you to download. (You will need to come back for that!)

Begin by preparing the piece as I showed you in previous lessons, with blue painter's tape and then applying the pattern. (Or use your own favorite method) Cut around the perimeter of the piece so that it is a comfortable size to work with. Place a small drill bit in your drill press and drill out the holes in the waste are of the design. From the picture below you can see that I marked some suggested starting places you can drill.










Of course they don't have to be exactly where I indicated - any thing close will do.

Drill using the smallest bit that will fit your blade through it comfortably. By 'comfortably' I mean that you shouldn't have to struggle to push your blade through the hole, as this could result in bending the blade - especially if you are using a small blade. But you want to keep the entry hole as small as you can. When you are finished drilling the holes, be sure to sand the back of the plaque with some sand paper. Otherwise the bumps from the back of the drill holes will interfere with allowing your piece to sit flat on the scroll saw table.

After drilling and sanding, we are now ready to cut.

For my own piece here, I am using 1/2" (Maple) and a size 2-reverse tooth scroll saw blade. You can use anything similar and get the same results.

Begin by cutting toward the nearest sharp corner. Aim for the pointiest part of the corner. Remember to let up the pressure as you approach it so you don't overshoot the cut. This is a common mistake that beginners make. (you can go back and review lesson #4 HERE if you want to refresh yourself about not putting too much pressure on the blade and getting not over cutting.) When you reach the end of the point - STOP:










Back up the saw blade slightly (perhaps a quarter of an inch or so) WITHOUT TURNING IT - simply pull the piece slightly back through the saw:










Now cut forward again toward the line, only this time go slightly to the LEFT of the line your just cut. Again you are going to stop as you get to your line:










When you are at the line, you should pivot your piece so that you can cut back to meet the tip of the point.










At this point, the little triangular piece should fall out (as indicated by the grey area in the illustration):










You are then going to turn your piece so that you will be cutting in a clockwise direction and following the line to the next corner. When you get to the next corner, stop again:










You will then back your blade up just as you did before (approximately 1/4 of an inch or so) without turning the piece or the blade:










Now just as we did on the first corner, we are going to cut to the left of the corner and stop at the line:










And after the small triangle falls out, turn your piece so you can continue in a clockwise direction and continue on to the next corner:










Continue in this manner until you come around to where you started. Be sure to back off the pressure you are pushing on your saw when you are approaching the end. If you push too hard, you will have a tendency to over cut into the piece past your starting point.

For very sharp angles, there is sometimes an easier way to turn the corners - especially when you are using a very small blade. In the second set of pictures, I have a shape with a very acute angle and an obtuse angle (over 90 degrees) to each side of it. In this case, I drilled my entry hole near the obtuse angle, and began cutting from the hole to the corner of it.

When I reached the line, instead of backing up the blade and cutting a small triangle out like I did in the last example, I simply turned the piece and began following the line in a clockwise direction and continued cutting:










I am able to do this because of the large angle. Depending on which size blade you are using, you should be able to turn most obtuse angles in this manner and still have a nice sharp corner. Remember when you are turning to pivot on the corner and slightly lean your piece to the back of the blade to insure that there is no forward moving while you pivot. Continue along the line until you reach the point of the acute angle.










When you reach that point, you will once again back up your piece about 1/4" and then pivot your piece (toward the waste area)










Now you will back all the way into the corner:










And from that point you will continue cutting in a clockwise direction:










I hope this gives you a clear idea of how to cut corners. Of course, if you are cutting in a counter-clockwise direction, you will just cut the little triangle out from the opposite side and continue accordingly. Once you get the hang of the process, it will be fairly easy and come second nature to you.

You will find that as most of the time with scroll sawing, the process is a matter of judgement calls. You will learn by practicing which way of turning is best for the particular area you are at. The thing we are aiming for is to have nice, sharp defined corners without 'spin holes' which are rounded areas made from turning the blade. Crisp and clean angles will make your piece look professional and nice.

Your homework for this week is to finish cutting all the inside cuts of the frame piece provided. This will be really
good practice for you and by the time you are finished, you should be feeling a bit more comfortable in doing the process. Next lesson we will learn how to do other types of inside cuts and later on we will learn to bevel cut the piece to make a self-framing plaque.

Below is the video that will demonstrate these three types of turns that I just explained. I think it will help clarify the steps that I showed you in the drawings above.






Of course, there are other ways that you can turn too. I am sure that others will have some good input as to other methods that work well for them too. As with most of scroll sawing, there are several correct ways to do things.

I would suggest you use a board approximately 1/2" thick and a #2 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. If you have something else available, I am sure that will work fine too. Try to use the smallest blade you can and still have control and not have to work too hard moving your piece through the saw. If you have to push hard, or if your blade is wandering too much, try going up a size. You will soon get a feel for what is right for the type of wood you have.

Feel free to ask questions if there is anything that I missed here. I will be finishing up editing the video and getting it posted here as soon as it is done, so be sure to check back later. But for now, this will get you started.

Thank you again for participating in the class. I hope you are all having fun!


----------



## Bearpie

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Inside Corners and Angles*
> 
> So far we have looked at how to prepare our wood, choose a blade, cast on and off a piece and cut outside curves and corners. Now it is time we do some inside cutting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most people associate scroll sawing with cutting fretwork. At first many people don't understand that in order to cut fretwork pieces, you need to drill entry holes in the 'waste area' (or the part of the pattern that drops away when you finish your cut) and thread the blade through that drilled hole to cut out the inside piece. This is why it is so important to many scroll sawyers to have a scroll saw that uses *pinless *blades, or blades that have flat ends and attach to the scroll saw by a chuck or a screw squeezing the blade tight to hold it in place while you are cutting.
> 
> Many older and industrial saws used *pin ended blades. *. These are blades have a small pin going through the end of them and look kind of like a 't'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the blade rests in some sort of channel on the end of the arm of the scroll saw and the tension is then tightened to hold the blade in place. While this is an effective way to hold the blade in the saw, it is not always the most practical when doing decorative and delicate scroll saw work.
> 
> The pins at the end of the blades mean that in order to thread the blade through the wood, you would need a much wider entry hole in order to do so. This may be acceptable if you are doing larger pieces, such as fretwork brackets for shelves and trim work, but if you are doing smaller items such as ornaments and other delicate work, you will find that having to use pin ended blades will severely limit the scope of the work you can do. It is for that reason that I highly recommend using a saw that uses pinless blades. Most of the newer saws on the market today fall into this category.
> 
> I often am asked questions as to where to drill the entry holes in a project. While you can certainly drill them anywhere convenient in the waste area, there are usually some better choices that will minimize the time and effort in making a piece.
> 
> When I have a piece with lots of sharp corners, I like to start cutting fairly close a corner. For the same reasons that we started in a corner when doing an outside cut, I feel that it is also best to do so when making an inside cut. The place where we enter and exit our cuts sometimes makes a small bump, and I feel that by starting in an inconspicuous area near a corner, even if there is a small ridge where we enter and exit, it will be very difficult if not impossible to see.
> 
> For this lesson, I have prepared a practice pattern that has lots of sharp inside cuts. You can download the pattern at my Google Documents file here:
> 
> Lesson 7 Practice Sheet
> 
> This is part of a pattern for a self-framing plaque that I designed. It is a pattern that I sell on my site, but I enlarged it a bit so that it would be a little easier for you to practice on. For this lesson, we are only going to work on the frame of the project so I only included that part on the pattern. Next time we will be working on the inside cuts and I will have that part of the pattern for you to download. (You will need to come back for that!)
> 
> Begin by preparing the piece as I showed you in previous lessons, with blue painter's tape and then applying the pattern. (Or use your own favorite method) Cut around the perimeter of the piece so that it is a comfortable size to work with. Place a small drill bit in your drill press and drill out the holes in the waste are of the design. From the picture below you can see that I marked some suggested starting places you can drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course they don't have to be exactly where I indicated - any thing close will do.
> 
> Drill using the smallest bit that will fit your blade through it comfortably. By 'comfortably' I mean that you shouldn't have to struggle to push your blade through the hole, as this could result in bending the blade - especially if you are using a small blade. But you want to keep the entry hole as small as you can. When you are finished drilling the holes, be sure to sand the back of the plaque with some sand paper. Otherwise the bumps from the back of the drill holes will interfere with allowing your piece to sit flat on the scroll saw table.
> 
> After drilling and sanding, we are now ready to cut.
> 
> For my own piece here, I am using 1/2" (Maple) and a size 2-reverse tooth scroll saw blade. You can use anything similar and get the same results.
> 
> Begin by cutting toward the nearest sharp corner. Aim for the pointiest part of the corner. Remember to let up the pressure as you approach it so you don't overshoot the cut. This is a common mistake that beginners make. (you can go back and review lesson #4 HERE if you want to refresh yourself about not putting too much pressure on the blade and getting not over cutting.) When you reach the end of the point - STOP:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back up the saw blade slightly (perhaps a quarter of an inch or so) WITHOUT TURNING IT - simply pull the piece slightly back through the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut forward again toward the line, only this time go slightly to the LEFT of the line your just cut. Again you are going to stop as you get to your line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you are at the line, you should pivot your piece so that you can cut back to meet the tip of the point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, the little triangular piece should fall out (as indicated by the grey area in the illustration):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are then going to turn your piece so that you will be cutting in a clockwise direction and following the line to the next corner. When you get to the next corner, stop again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will then back your blade up just as you did before (approximately 1/4 of an inch or so) without turning the piece or the blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just as we did on the first corner, we are going to cut to the left of the corner and stop at the line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after the small triangle falls out, turn your piece so you can continue in a clockwise direction and continue on to the next corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue in this manner until you come around to where you started. Be sure to back off the pressure you are pushing on your saw when you are approaching the end. If you push too hard, you will have a tendency to over cut into the piece past your starting point.
> 
> For very sharp angles, there is sometimes an easier way to turn the corners - especially when you are using a very small blade. In the second set of pictures, I have a shape with a very acute angle and an obtuse angle (over 90 degrees) to each side of it. In this case, I drilled my entry hole near the obtuse angle, and began cutting from the hole to the corner of it.
> 
> When I reached the line, instead of backing up the blade and cutting a small triangle out like I did in the last example, I simply turned the piece and began following the line in a clockwise direction and continued cutting:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am able to do this because of the large angle. Depending on which size blade you are using, you should be able to turn most obtuse angles in this manner and still have a nice sharp corner. Remember when you are turning to pivot on the corner and slightly lean your piece to the back of the blade to insure that there is no forward moving while you pivot. Continue along the line until you reach the point of the acute angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you reach that point, you will once again back up your piece about 1/4" and then pivot your piece (toward the waste area)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you will back all the way into the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And from that point you will continue cutting in a clockwise direction:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this gives you a clear idea of how to cut corners. Of course, if you are cutting in a counter-clockwise direction, you will just cut the little triangle out from the opposite side and continue accordingly. Once you get the hang of the process, it will be fairly easy and come second nature to you.
> 
> You will find that as most of the time with scroll sawing, the process is a matter of judgement calls. You will learn by practicing which way of turning is best for the particular area you are at. The thing we are aiming for is to have nice, sharp defined corners without 'spin holes' which are rounded areas made from turning the blade. Crisp and clean angles will make your piece look professional and nice.
> 
> Your homework for this week is to finish cutting all the inside cuts of the frame piece provided. This will be really
> good practice for you and by the time you are finished, you should be feeling a bit more comfortable in doing the process. Next lesson we will learn how to do other types of inside cuts and later on we will learn to bevel cut the piece to make a self-framing plaque.
> 
> Below is the video that will demonstrate these three types of turns that I just explained. I think it will help clarify the steps that I showed you in the drawings above.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course, there are other ways that you can turn too. I am sure that others will have some good input as to other methods that work well for them too. As with most of scroll sawing, there are several correct ways to do things.
> 
> I would suggest you use a board approximately 1/2" thick and a #2 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. If you have something else available, I am sure that will work fine too. Try to use the smallest blade you can and still have control and not have to work too hard moving your piece through the saw. If you have to push hard, or if your blade is wandering too much, try going up a size. You will soon get a feel for what is right for the type of wood you have.
> 
> Feel free to ask questions if there is anything that I missed here. I will be finishing up editing the video and getting it posted here as soon as it is done, so be sure to check back later. But for now, this will get you started.
> 
> Thank you again for participating in the class. I hope you are all having fun!


Edith found that when there is a point on one of those inside cuts, she prefers to drill the entry hole just off that point then she can saw to that point and continue around and finish from the other side of that point. Example; In your third picture there is a place where there is a curved piece that ends as a point, drill there. It is just something she prefers but I think it is really a matter of what you are used to. Overall you get a gold star on your forehead for excellence in this class tutorial!


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Inside Corners and Angles*
> 
> So far we have looked at how to prepare our wood, choose a blade, cast on and off a piece and cut outside curves and corners. Now it is time we do some inside cutting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most people associate scroll sawing with cutting fretwork. At first many people don't understand that in order to cut fretwork pieces, you need to drill entry holes in the 'waste area' (or the part of the pattern that drops away when you finish your cut) and thread the blade through that drilled hole to cut out the inside piece. This is why it is so important to many scroll sawyers to have a scroll saw that uses *pinless *blades, or blades that have flat ends and attach to the scroll saw by a chuck or a screw squeezing the blade tight to hold it in place while you are cutting.
> 
> Many older and industrial saws used *pin ended blades. *. These are blades have a small pin going through the end of them and look kind of like a 't'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the blade rests in some sort of channel on the end of the arm of the scroll saw and the tension is then tightened to hold the blade in place. While this is an effective way to hold the blade in the saw, it is not always the most practical when doing decorative and delicate scroll saw work.
> 
> The pins at the end of the blades mean that in order to thread the blade through the wood, you would need a much wider entry hole in order to do so. This may be acceptable if you are doing larger pieces, such as fretwork brackets for shelves and trim work, but if you are doing smaller items such as ornaments and other delicate work, you will find that having to use pin ended blades will severely limit the scope of the work you can do. It is for that reason that I highly recommend using a saw that uses pinless blades. Most of the newer saws on the market today fall into this category.
> 
> I often am asked questions as to where to drill the entry holes in a project. While you can certainly drill them anywhere convenient in the waste area, there are usually some better choices that will minimize the time and effort in making a piece.
> 
> When I have a piece with lots of sharp corners, I like to start cutting fairly close a corner. For the same reasons that we started in a corner when doing an outside cut, I feel that it is also best to do so when making an inside cut. The place where we enter and exit our cuts sometimes makes a small bump, and I feel that by starting in an inconspicuous area near a corner, even if there is a small ridge where we enter and exit, it will be very difficult if not impossible to see.
> 
> For this lesson, I have prepared a practice pattern that has lots of sharp inside cuts. You can download the pattern at my Google Documents file here:
> 
> Lesson 7 Practice Sheet
> 
> This is part of a pattern for a self-framing plaque that I designed. It is a pattern that I sell on my site, but I enlarged it a bit so that it would be a little easier for you to practice on. For this lesson, we are only going to work on the frame of the project so I only included that part on the pattern. Next time we will be working on the inside cuts and I will have that part of the pattern for you to download. (You will need to come back for that!)
> 
> Begin by preparing the piece as I showed you in previous lessons, with blue painter's tape and then applying the pattern. (Or use your own favorite method) Cut around the perimeter of the piece so that it is a comfortable size to work with. Place a small drill bit in your drill press and drill out the holes in the waste are of the design. From the picture below you can see that I marked some suggested starting places you can drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course they don't have to be exactly where I indicated - any thing close will do.
> 
> Drill using the smallest bit that will fit your blade through it comfortably. By 'comfortably' I mean that you shouldn't have to struggle to push your blade through the hole, as this could result in bending the blade - especially if you are using a small blade. But you want to keep the entry hole as small as you can. When you are finished drilling the holes, be sure to sand the back of the plaque with some sand paper. Otherwise the bumps from the back of the drill holes will interfere with allowing your piece to sit flat on the scroll saw table.
> 
> After drilling and sanding, we are now ready to cut.
> 
> For my own piece here, I am using 1/2" (Maple) and a size 2-reverse tooth scroll saw blade. You can use anything similar and get the same results.
> 
> Begin by cutting toward the nearest sharp corner. Aim for the pointiest part of the corner. Remember to let up the pressure as you approach it so you don't overshoot the cut. This is a common mistake that beginners make. (you can go back and review lesson #4 HERE if you want to refresh yourself about not putting too much pressure on the blade and getting not over cutting.) When you reach the end of the point - STOP:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back up the saw blade slightly (perhaps a quarter of an inch or so) WITHOUT TURNING IT - simply pull the piece slightly back through the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut forward again toward the line, only this time go slightly to the LEFT of the line your just cut. Again you are going to stop as you get to your line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you are at the line, you should pivot your piece so that you can cut back to meet the tip of the point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, the little triangular piece should fall out (as indicated by the grey area in the illustration):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are then going to turn your piece so that you will be cutting in a clockwise direction and following the line to the next corner. When you get to the next corner, stop again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will then back your blade up just as you did before (approximately 1/4 of an inch or so) without turning the piece or the blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just as we did on the first corner, we are going to cut to the left of the corner and stop at the line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after the small triangle falls out, turn your piece so you can continue in a clockwise direction and continue on to the next corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue in this manner until you come around to where you started. Be sure to back off the pressure you are pushing on your saw when you are approaching the end. If you push too hard, you will have a tendency to over cut into the piece past your starting point.
> 
> For very sharp angles, there is sometimes an easier way to turn the corners - especially when you are using a very small blade. In the second set of pictures, I have a shape with a very acute angle and an obtuse angle (over 90 degrees) to each side of it. In this case, I drilled my entry hole near the obtuse angle, and began cutting from the hole to the corner of it.
> 
> When I reached the line, instead of backing up the blade and cutting a small triangle out like I did in the last example, I simply turned the piece and began following the line in a clockwise direction and continued cutting:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am able to do this because of the large angle. Depending on which size blade you are using, you should be able to turn most obtuse angles in this manner and still have a nice sharp corner. Remember when you are turning to pivot on the corner and slightly lean your piece to the back of the blade to insure that there is no forward moving while you pivot. Continue along the line until you reach the point of the acute angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you reach that point, you will once again back up your piece about 1/4" and then pivot your piece (toward the waste area)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you will back all the way into the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And from that point you will continue cutting in a clockwise direction:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this gives you a clear idea of how to cut corners. Of course, if you are cutting in a counter-clockwise direction, you will just cut the little triangle out from the opposite side and continue accordingly. Once you get the hang of the process, it will be fairly easy and come second nature to you.
> 
> You will find that as most of the time with scroll sawing, the process is a matter of judgement calls. You will learn by practicing which way of turning is best for the particular area you are at. The thing we are aiming for is to have nice, sharp defined corners without 'spin holes' which are rounded areas made from turning the blade. Crisp and clean angles will make your piece look professional and nice.
> 
> Your homework for this week is to finish cutting all the inside cuts of the frame piece provided. This will be really
> good practice for you and by the time you are finished, you should be feeling a bit more comfortable in doing the process. Next lesson we will learn how to do other types of inside cuts and later on we will learn to bevel cut the piece to make a self-framing plaque.
> 
> Below is the video that will demonstrate these three types of turns that I just explained. I think it will help clarify the steps that I showed you in the drawings above.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course, there are other ways that you can turn too. I am sure that others will have some good input as to other methods that work well for them too. As with most of scroll sawing, there are several correct ways to do things.
> 
> I would suggest you use a board approximately 1/2" thick and a #2 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. If you have something else available, I am sure that will work fine too. Try to use the smallest blade you can and still have control and not have to work too hard moving your piece through the saw. If you have to push hard, or if your blade is wandering too much, try going up a size. You will soon get a feel for what is right for the type of wood you have.
> 
> Feel free to ask questions if there is anything that I missed here. I will be finishing up editing the video and getting it posted here as soon as it is done, so be sure to check back later. But for now, this will get you started.
> 
> Thank you again for participating in the class. I hope you are all having fun!


Thank you very much Erwin. That is another good way to address the corners. I appreciate the input and am glad you like the lesson. 

Sheila


----------



## Blondewood

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Inside Corners and Angles*
> 
> So far we have looked at how to prepare our wood, choose a blade, cast on and off a piece and cut outside curves and corners. Now it is time we do some inside cutting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most people associate scroll sawing with cutting fretwork. At first many people don't understand that in order to cut fretwork pieces, you need to drill entry holes in the 'waste area' (or the part of the pattern that drops away when you finish your cut) and thread the blade through that drilled hole to cut out the inside piece. This is why it is so important to many scroll sawyers to have a scroll saw that uses *pinless *blades, or blades that have flat ends and attach to the scroll saw by a chuck or a screw squeezing the blade tight to hold it in place while you are cutting.
> 
> Many older and industrial saws used *pin ended blades. *. These are blades have a small pin going through the end of them and look kind of like a 't'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the blade rests in some sort of channel on the end of the arm of the scroll saw and the tension is then tightened to hold the blade in place. While this is an effective way to hold the blade in the saw, it is not always the most practical when doing decorative and delicate scroll saw work.
> 
> The pins at the end of the blades mean that in order to thread the blade through the wood, you would need a much wider entry hole in order to do so. This may be acceptable if you are doing larger pieces, such as fretwork brackets for shelves and trim work, but if you are doing smaller items such as ornaments and other delicate work, you will find that having to use pin ended blades will severely limit the scope of the work you can do. It is for that reason that I highly recommend using a saw that uses pinless blades. Most of the newer saws on the market today fall into this category.
> 
> I often am asked questions as to where to drill the entry holes in a project. While you can certainly drill them anywhere convenient in the waste area, there are usually some better choices that will minimize the time and effort in making a piece.
> 
> When I have a piece with lots of sharp corners, I like to start cutting fairly close a corner. For the same reasons that we started in a corner when doing an outside cut, I feel that it is also best to do so when making an inside cut. The place where we enter and exit our cuts sometimes makes a small bump, and I feel that by starting in an inconspicuous area near a corner, even if there is a small ridge where we enter and exit, it will be very difficult if not impossible to see.
> 
> For this lesson, I have prepared a practice pattern that has lots of sharp inside cuts. You can download the pattern at my Google Documents file here:
> 
> Lesson 7 Practice Sheet
> 
> This is part of a pattern for a self-framing plaque that I designed. It is a pattern that I sell on my site, but I enlarged it a bit so that it would be a little easier for you to practice on. For this lesson, we are only going to work on the frame of the project so I only included that part on the pattern. Next time we will be working on the inside cuts and I will have that part of the pattern for you to download. (You will need to come back for that!)
> 
> Begin by preparing the piece as I showed you in previous lessons, with blue painter's tape and then applying the pattern. (Or use your own favorite method) Cut around the perimeter of the piece so that it is a comfortable size to work with. Place a small drill bit in your drill press and drill out the holes in the waste are of the design. From the picture below you can see that I marked some suggested starting places you can drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course they don't have to be exactly where I indicated - any thing close will do.
> 
> Drill using the smallest bit that will fit your blade through it comfortably. By 'comfortably' I mean that you shouldn't have to struggle to push your blade through the hole, as this could result in bending the blade - especially if you are using a small blade. But you want to keep the entry hole as small as you can. When you are finished drilling the holes, be sure to sand the back of the plaque with some sand paper. Otherwise the bumps from the back of the drill holes will interfere with allowing your piece to sit flat on the scroll saw table.
> 
> After drilling and sanding, we are now ready to cut.
> 
> For my own piece here, I am using 1/2" (Maple) and a size 2-reverse tooth scroll saw blade. You can use anything similar and get the same results.
> 
> Begin by cutting toward the nearest sharp corner. Aim for the pointiest part of the corner. Remember to let up the pressure as you approach it so you don't overshoot the cut. This is a common mistake that beginners make. (you can go back and review lesson #4 HERE if you want to refresh yourself about not putting too much pressure on the blade and getting not over cutting.) When you reach the end of the point - STOP:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back up the saw blade slightly (perhaps a quarter of an inch or so) WITHOUT TURNING IT - simply pull the piece slightly back through the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut forward again toward the line, only this time go slightly to the LEFT of the line your just cut. Again you are going to stop as you get to your line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you are at the line, you should pivot your piece so that you can cut back to meet the tip of the point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, the little triangular piece should fall out (as indicated by the grey area in the illustration):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are then going to turn your piece so that you will be cutting in a clockwise direction and following the line to the next corner. When you get to the next corner, stop again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will then back your blade up just as you did before (approximately 1/4 of an inch or so) without turning the piece or the blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just as we did on the first corner, we are going to cut to the left of the corner and stop at the line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after the small triangle falls out, turn your piece so you can continue in a clockwise direction and continue on to the next corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue in this manner until you come around to where you started. Be sure to back off the pressure you are pushing on your saw when you are approaching the end. If you push too hard, you will have a tendency to over cut into the piece past your starting point.
> 
> For very sharp angles, there is sometimes an easier way to turn the corners - especially when you are using a very small blade. In the second set of pictures, I have a shape with a very acute angle and an obtuse angle (over 90 degrees) to each side of it. In this case, I drilled my entry hole near the obtuse angle, and began cutting from the hole to the corner of it.
> 
> When I reached the line, instead of backing up the blade and cutting a small triangle out like I did in the last example, I simply turned the piece and began following the line in a clockwise direction and continued cutting:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am able to do this because of the large angle. Depending on which size blade you are using, you should be able to turn most obtuse angles in this manner and still have a nice sharp corner. Remember when you are turning to pivot on the corner and slightly lean your piece to the back of the blade to insure that there is no forward moving while you pivot. Continue along the line until you reach the point of the acute angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you reach that point, you will once again back up your piece about 1/4" and then pivot your piece (toward the waste area)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you will back all the way into the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And from that point you will continue cutting in a clockwise direction:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this gives you a clear idea of how to cut corners. Of course, if you are cutting in a counter-clockwise direction, you will just cut the little triangle out from the opposite side and continue accordingly. Once you get the hang of the process, it will be fairly easy and come second nature to you.
> 
> You will find that as most of the time with scroll sawing, the process is a matter of judgement calls. You will learn by practicing which way of turning is best for the particular area you are at. The thing we are aiming for is to have nice, sharp defined corners without 'spin holes' which are rounded areas made from turning the blade. Crisp and clean angles will make your piece look professional and nice.
> 
> Your homework for this week is to finish cutting all the inside cuts of the frame piece provided. This will be really
> good practice for you and by the time you are finished, you should be feeling a bit more comfortable in doing the process. Next lesson we will learn how to do other types of inside cuts and later on we will learn to bevel cut the piece to make a self-framing plaque.
> 
> Below is the video that will demonstrate these three types of turns that I just explained. I think it will help clarify the steps that I showed you in the drawings above.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course, there are other ways that you can turn too. I am sure that others will have some good input as to other methods that work well for them too. As with most of scroll sawing, there are several correct ways to do things.
> 
> I would suggest you use a board approximately 1/2" thick and a #2 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. If you have something else available, I am sure that will work fine too. Try to use the smallest blade you can and still have control and not have to work too hard moving your piece through the saw. If you have to push hard, or if your blade is wandering too much, try going up a size. You will soon get a feel for what is right for the type of wood you have.
> 
> Feel free to ask questions if there is anything that I missed here. I will be finishing up editing the video and getting it posted here as soon as it is done, so be sure to check back later. But for now, this will get you started.
> 
> Thank you again for participating in the class. I hope you are all having fun!


Wow! You out did yourself this time. Fantastic job explaining this in such an understandable way. I find the diagrams and video VERY helpful and they couldn't have come at a better time. I think I mentioned I've been on sick leave and doing a lot of scrolling due not being able to lift stuff. I've made nearly 30 items already for an upcoming craft fair.

I want to say that I am now a fan of the #2R from Olson. I don't think I ever used anything smaller than a #5. I was too leary and didn't understand how much the right size blade matters. Now I finally get it.

I'd like to know how long a #2 tends to last you. I fine that the 2 and 3 break faster than the 5's did. Not sure if it's operator error or blade thickness. I'm tone deaf so can't tighten my blade to a C note, plus when it's threaded through the drilled hole it really won't "Pine" anyway. I follow the tip that the blade should only move 1/8" either way. A blade seems to last around 10 - 20 min. A time or two it broke after 5 minutes. I'm not pushing HARD, but maybe I'm pushing too hard for the tiny blade? I know it has to do with experience as much as anything, but when I used bigger blades and did few inside cuts, the blades lasted longer.

One last thing I'm trying to understand is: should the "save" piece be on the left or right side of the blade? I know some that say on the right, but I thought you said the left. From watching your videos I've seen you do it both ways. So maybe it doesn't matter that much? I know the teeth are sharper on the right and cut a bit more agressively on the right. I kinda like have my 'save' piece to the left of the blade, but can do it either way. I find I cut better all if I stick with one or the other. Maybe keeping the 'save' on the left is contributing to more broken blades? Just thought of that.

Sorry this post is so long, just trying to describe it clearly.

Thanks again for all the helpful info.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Inside Corners and Angles*
> 
> So far we have looked at how to prepare our wood, choose a blade, cast on and off a piece and cut outside curves and corners. Now it is time we do some inside cutting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most people associate scroll sawing with cutting fretwork. At first many people don't understand that in order to cut fretwork pieces, you need to drill entry holes in the 'waste area' (or the part of the pattern that drops away when you finish your cut) and thread the blade through that drilled hole to cut out the inside piece. This is why it is so important to many scroll sawyers to have a scroll saw that uses *pinless *blades, or blades that have flat ends and attach to the scroll saw by a chuck or a screw squeezing the blade tight to hold it in place while you are cutting.
> 
> Many older and industrial saws used *pin ended blades. *. These are blades have a small pin going through the end of them and look kind of like a 't'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the blade rests in some sort of channel on the end of the arm of the scroll saw and the tension is then tightened to hold the blade in place. While this is an effective way to hold the blade in the saw, it is not always the most practical when doing decorative and delicate scroll saw work.
> 
> The pins at the end of the blades mean that in order to thread the blade through the wood, you would need a much wider entry hole in order to do so. This may be acceptable if you are doing larger pieces, such as fretwork brackets for shelves and trim work, but if you are doing smaller items such as ornaments and other delicate work, you will find that having to use pin ended blades will severely limit the scope of the work you can do. It is for that reason that I highly recommend using a saw that uses pinless blades. Most of the newer saws on the market today fall into this category.
> 
> I often am asked questions as to where to drill the entry holes in a project. While you can certainly drill them anywhere convenient in the waste area, there are usually some better choices that will minimize the time and effort in making a piece.
> 
> When I have a piece with lots of sharp corners, I like to start cutting fairly close a corner. For the same reasons that we started in a corner when doing an outside cut, I feel that it is also best to do so when making an inside cut. The place where we enter and exit our cuts sometimes makes a small bump, and I feel that by starting in an inconspicuous area near a corner, even if there is a small ridge where we enter and exit, it will be very difficult if not impossible to see.
> 
> For this lesson, I have prepared a practice pattern that has lots of sharp inside cuts. You can download the pattern at my Google Documents file here:
> 
> Lesson 7 Practice Sheet
> 
> This is part of a pattern for a self-framing plaque that I designed. It is a pattern that I sell on my site, but I enlarged it a bit so that it would be a little easier for you to practice on. For this lesson, we are only going to work on the frame of the project so I only included that part on the pattern. Next time we will be working on the inside cuts and I will have that part of the pattern for you to download. (You will need to come back for that!)
> 
> Begin by preparing the piece as I showed you in previous lessons, with blue painter's tape and then applying the pattern. (Or use your own favorite method) Cut around the perimeter of the piece so that it is a comfortable size to work with. Place a small drill bit in your drill press and drill out the holes in the waste are of the design. From the picture below you can see that I marked some suggested starting places you can drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course they don't have to be exactly where I indicated - any thing close will do.
> 
> Drill using the smallest bit that will fit your blade through it comfortably. By 'comfortably' I mean that you shouldn't have to struggle to push your blade through the hole, as this could result in bending the blade - especially if you are using a small blade. But you want to keep the entry hole as small as you can. When you are finished drilling the holes, be sure to sand the back of the plaque with some sand paper. Otherwise the bumps from the back of the drill holes will interfere with allowing your piece to sit flat on the scroll saw table.
> 
> After drilling and sanding, we are now ready to cut.
> 
> For my own piece here, I am using 1/2" (Maple) and a size 2-reverse tooth scroll saw blade. You can use anything similar and get the same results.
> 
> Begin by cutting toward the nearest sharp corner. Aim for the pointiest part of the corner. Remember to let up the pressure as you approach it so you don't overshoot the cut. This is a common mistake that beginners make. (you can go back and review lesson #4 HERE if you want to refresh yourself about not putting too much pressure on the blade and getting not over cutting.) When you reach the end of the point - STOP:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back up the saw blade slightly (perhaps a quarter of an inch or so) WITHOUT TURNING IT - simply pull the piece slightly back through the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut forward again toward the line, only this time go slightly to the LEFT of the line your just cut. Again you are going to stop as you get to your line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you are at the line, you should pivot your piece so that you can cut back to meet the tip of the point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, the little triangular piece should fall out (as indicated by the grey area in the illustration):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are then going to turn your piece so that you will be cutting in a clockwise direction and following the line to the next corner. When you get to the next corner, stop again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will then back your blade up just as you did before (approximately 1/4 of an inch or so) without turning the piece or the blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just as we did on the first corner, we are going to cut to the left of the corner and stop at the line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after the small triangle falls out, turn your piece so you can continue in a clockwise direction and continue on to the next corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue in this manner until you come around to where you started. Be sure to back off the pressure you are pushing on your saw when you are approaching the end. If you push too hard, you will have a tendency to over cut into the piece past your starting point.
> 
> For very sharp angles, there is sometimes an easier way to turn the corners - especially when you are using a very small blade. In the second set of pictures, I have a shape with a very acute angle and an obtuse angle (over 90 degrees) to each side of it. In this case, I drilled my entry hole near the obtuse angle, and began cutting from the hole to the corner of it.
> 
> When I reached the line, instead of backing up the blade and cutting a small triangle out like I did in the last example, I simply turned the piece and began following the line in a clockwise direction and continued cutting:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am able to do this because of the large angle. Depending on which size blade you are using, you should be able to turn most obtuse angles in this manner and still have a nice sharp corner. Remember when you are turning to pivot on the corner and slightly lean your piece to the back of the blade to insure that there is no forward moving while you pivot. Continue along the line until you reach the point of the acute angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you reach that point, you will once again back up your piece about 1/4" and then pivot your piece (toward the waste area)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you will back all the way into the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And from that point you will continue cutting in a clockwise direction:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this gives you a clear idea of how to cut corners. Of course, if you are cutting in a counter-clockwise direction, you will just cut the little triangle out from the opposite side and continue accordingly. Once you get the hang of the process, it will be fairly easy and come second nature to you.
> 
> You will find that as most of the time with scroll sawing, the process is a matter of judgement calls. You will learn by practicing which way of turning is best for the particular area you are at. The thing we are aiming for is to have nice, sharp defined corners without 'spin holes' which are rounded areas made from turning the blade. Crisp and clean angles will make your piece look professional and nice.
> 
> Your homework for this week is to finish cutting all the inside cuts of the frame piece provided. This will be really
> good practice for you and by the time you are finished, you should be feeling a bit more comfortable in doing the process. Next lesson we will learn how to do other types of inside cuts and later on we will learn to bevel cut the piece to make a self-framing plaque.
> 
> Below is the video that will demonstrate these three types of turns that I just explained. I think it will help clarify the steps that I showed you in the drawings above.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course, there are other ways that you can turn too. I am sure that others will have some good input as to other methods that work well for them too. As with most of scroll sawing, there are several correct ways to do things.
> 
> I would suggest you use a board approximately 1/2" thick and a #2 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. If you have something else available, I am sure that will work fine too. Try to use the smallest blade you can and still have control and not have to work too hard moving your piece through the saw. If you have to push hard, or if your blade is wandering too much, try going up a size. You will soon get a feel for what is right for the type of wood you have.
> 
> Feel free to ask questions if there is anything that I missed here. I will be finishing up editing the video and getting it posted here as soon as it is done, so be sure to check back later. But for now, this will get you started.
> 
> Thank you again for participating in the class. I hope you are all having fun!


Hi, Vicki: 
I am so glad you liked the class and video. I try to present things in an organized way where you can understand it.

I find that blades last me quite a while for some reason. My partner Keith is always teasing me because he goes through several more than I do. I don't really know why though.

If you are dulling blades quickly, try putting an extra layer of packaging tape over the pattern before cutting. The adhesive in the tape tends to lubricate the blade a bit and not only does it prevent burning, but it also helps the blade run cooler and last longer.

If you find they are dulling faster than you think they should, try moving up one size. They will also get dull quicker if you are using wood that is moist and not completely dry. Plywood also tends to dull the blades a bit more because of the glue used in the manufacturing process. All these factors come into play.

As far as the save side, I do cut both clockwise and counter-clockwise and don't think much about which direction I go in past what works best for the design. I think that it is important in learning that you try to learn to feel comfortable in either direction because more than likely your design will need to to cut both ways in the long run. I honestly don't think that having the save side on the left of the blade or the right of the blade would make that much difference in breaking blades. Just be sure that you aren't tightening them too much, but from what you say you probably aren't.

As you see, there are a lot of variables to consider. I suppose the best thing I can tell you is to try trial and error and see what helps you get more life out of a blade. Another blade that I really like is the Olsen Mach blade. It comes as small as the #3 size and although it is slightly bigger than the #2 I used with this project, I could have certainly used it with good results. If you can get hold of some, give them a try and let me know what you think.

I hope this helps you. Let me know how things work out and never be afraid to ask a question. I enjoy helping if I can and I am sure there are many others here who have some good advice too.

Take care, Sheila


----------



## Blondewood

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Inside Corners and Angles*
> 
> So far we have looked at how to prepare our wood, choose a blade, cast on and off a piece and cut outside curves and corners. Now it is time we do some inside cutting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most people associate scroll sawing with cutting fretwork. At first many people don't understand that in order to cut fretwork pieces, you need to drill entry holes in the 'waste area' (or the part of the pattern that drops away when you finish your cut) and thread the blade through that drilled hole to cut out the inside piece. This is why it is so important to many scroll sawyers to have a scroll saw that uses *pinless *blades, or blades that have flat ends and attach to the scroll saw by a chuck or a screw squeezing the blade tight to hold it in place while you are cutting.
> 
> Many older and industrial saws used *pin ended blades. *. These are blades have a small pin going through the end of them and look kind of like a 't'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the blade rests in some sort of channel on the end of the arm of the scroll saw and the tension is then tightened to hold the blade in place. While this is an effective way to hold the blade in the saw, it is not always the most practical when doing decorative and delicate scroll saw work.
> 
> The pins at the end of the blades mean that in order to thread the blade through the wood, you would need a much wider entry hole in order to do so. This may be acceptable if you are doing larger pieces, such as fretwork brackets for shelves and trim work, but if you are doing smaller items such as ornaments and other delicate work, you will find that having to use pin ended blades will severely limit the scope of the work you can do. It is for that reason that I highly recommend using a saw that uses pinless blades. Most of the newer saws on the market today fall into this category.
> 
> I often am asked questions as to where to drill the entry holes in a project. While you can certainly drill them anywhere convenient in the waste area, there are usually some better choices that will minimize the time and effort in making a piece.
> 
> When I have a piece with lots of sharp corners, I like to start cutting fairly close a corner. For the same reasons that we started in a corner when doing an outside cut, I feel that it is also best to do so when making an inside cut. The place where we enter and exit our cuts sometimes makes a small bump, and I feel that by starting in an inconspicuous area near a corner, even if there is a small ridge where we enter and exit, it will be very difficult if not impossible to see.
> 
> For this lesson, I have prepared a practice pattern that has lots of sharp inside cuts. You can download the pattern at my Google Documents file here:
> 
> Lesson 7 Practice Sheet
> 
> This is part of a pattern for a self-framing plaque that I designed. It is a pattern that I sell on my site, but I enlarged it a bit so that it would be a little easier for you to practice on. For this lesson, we are only going to work on the frame of the project so I only included that part on the pattern. Next time we will be working on the inside cuts and I will have that part of the pattern for you to download. (You will need to come back for that!)
> 
> Begin by preparing the piece as I showed you in previous lessons, with blue painter's tape and then applying the pattern. (Or use your own favorite method) Cut around the perimeter of the piece so that it is a comfortable size to work with. Place a small drill bit in your drill press and drill out the holes in the waste are of the design. From the picture below you can see that I marked some suggested starting places you can drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course they don't have to be exactly where I indicated - any thing close will do.
> 
> Drill using the smallest bit that will fit your blade through it comfortably. By 'comfortably' I mean that you shouldn't have to struggle to push your blade through the hole, as this could result in bending the blade - especially if you are using a small blade. But you want to keep the entry hole as small as you can. When you are finished drilling the holes, be sure to sand the back of the plaque with some sand paper. Otherwise the bumps from the back of the drill holes will interfere with allowing your piece to sit flat on the scroll saw table.
> 
> After drilling and sanding, we are now ready to cut.
> 
> For my own piece here, I am using 1/2" (Maple) and a size 2-reverse tooth scroll saw blade. You can use anything similar and get the same results.
> 
> Begin by cutting toward the nearest sharp corner. Aim for the pointiest part of the corner. Remember to let up the pressure as you approach it so you don't overshoot the cut. This is a common mistake that beginners make. (you can go back and review lesson #4 HERE if you want to refresh yourself about not putting too much pressure on the blade and getting not over cutting.) When you reach the end of the point - STOP:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back up the saw blade slightly (perhaps a quarter of an inch or so) WITHOUT TURNING IT - simply pull the piece slightly back through the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut forward again toward the line, only this time go slightly to the LEFT of the line your just cut. Again you are going to stop as you get to your line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you are at the line, you should pivot your piece so that you can cut back to meet the tip of the point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, the little triangular piece should fall out (as indicated by the grey area in the illustration):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are then going to turn your piece so that you will be cutting in a clockwise direction and following the line to the next corner. When you get to the next corner, stop again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will then back your blade up just as you did before (approximately 1/4 of an inch or so) without turning the piece or the blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just as we did on the first corner, we are going to cut to the left of the corner and stop at the line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after the small triangle falls out, turn your piece so you can continue in a clockwise direction and continue on to the next corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue in this manner until you come around to where you started. Be sure to back off the pressure you are pushing on your saw when you are approaching the end. If you push too hard, you will have a tendency to over cut into the piece past your starting point.
> 
> For very sharp angles, there is sometimes an easier way to turn the corners - especially when you are using a very small blade. In the second set of pictures, I have a shape with a very acute angle and an obtuse angle (over 90 degrees) to each side of it. In this case, I drilled my entry hole near the obtuse angle, and began cutting from the hole to the corner of it.
> 
> When I reached the line, instead of backing up the blade and cutting a small triangle out like I did in the last example, I simply turned the piece and began following the line in a clockwise direction and continued cutting:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am able to do this because of the large angle. Depending on which size blade you are using, you should be able to turn most obtuse angles in this manner and still have a nice sharp corner. Remember when you are turning to pivot on the corner and slightly lean your piece to the back of the blade to insure that there is no forward moving while you pivot. Continue along the line until you reach the point of the acute angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you reach that point, you will once again back up your piece about 1/4" and then pivot your piece (toward the waste area)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you will back all the way into the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And from that point you will continue cutting in a clockwise direction:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this gives you a clear idea of how to cut corners. Of course, if you are cutting in a counter-clockwise direction, you will just cut the little triangle out from the opposite side and continue accordingly. Once you get the hang of the process, it will be fairly easy and come second nature to you.
> 
> You will find that as most of the time with scroll sawing, the process is a matter of judgement calls. You will learn by practicing which way of turning is best for the particular area you are at. The thing we are aiming for is to have nice, sharp defined corners without 'spin holes' which are rounded areas made from turning the blade. Crisp and clean angles will make your piece look professional and nice.
> 
> Your homework for this week is to finish cutting all the inside cuts of the frame piece provided. This will be really
> good practice for you and by the time you are finished, you should be feeling a bit more comfortable in doing the process. Next lesson we will learn how to do other types of inside cuts and later on we will learn to bevel cut the piece to make a self-framing plaque.
> 
> Below is the video that will demonstrate these three types of turns that I just explained. I think it will help clarify the steps that I showed you in the drawings above.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course, there are other ways that you can turn too. I am sure that others will have some good input as to other methods that work well for them too. As with most of scroll sawing, there are several correct ways to do things.
> 
> I would suggest you use a board approximately 1/2" thick and a #2 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. If you have something else available, I am sure that will work fine too. Try to use the smallest blade you can and still have control and not have to work too hard moving your piece through the saw. If you have to push hard, or if your blade is wandering too much, try going up a size. You will soon get a feel for what is right for the type of wood you have.
> 
> Feel free to ask questions if there is anything that I missed here. I will be finishing up editing the video and getting it posted here as soon as it is done, so be sure to check back later. But for now, this will get you started.
> 
> Thank you again for participating in the class. I hope you are all having fun!


Thanks so much for the helpful reply. I will try each tip one by one to try and figure out my problem. I agree with what you say about needing to be able to saw on either side of the 'save' piece. I'll quit worrying about that and just saw. I am guilty of overthinking things at times. lol I just finished watching a few other videos I found online and both men sawed on both sides, but mainly kept their save piece on the right. While surfing around I did read that you can tighten the bigger sized blades a bit more than the small sizes. That may be part of my problem as well, since I mainly used 5's and 7's before. If I figure something out that helps me I'll share it with the group.
Thanks again,
Vicki


----------



## BertFlores58

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Inside Corners and Angles*
> 
> So far we have looked at how to prepare our wood, choose a blade, cast on and off a piece and cut outside curves and corners. Now it is time we do some inside cutting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most people associate scroll sawing with cutting fretwork. At first many people don't understand that in order to cut fretwork pieces, you need to drill entry holes in the 'waste area' (or the part of the pattern that drops away when you finish your cut) and thread the blade through that drilled hole to cut out the inside piece. This is why it is so important to many scroll sawyers to have a scroll saw that uses *pinless *blades, or blades that have flat ends and attach to the scroll saw by a chuck or a screw squeezing the blade tight to hold it in place while you are cutting.
> 
> Many older and industrial saws used *pin ended blades. *. These are blades have a small pin going through the end of them and look kind of like a 't'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the blade rests in some sort of channel on the end of the arm of the scroll saw and the tension is then tightened to hold the blade in place. While this is an effective way to hold the blade in the saw, it is not always the most practical when doing decorative and delicate scroll saw work.
> 
> The pins at the end of the blades mean that in order to thread the blade through the wood, you would need a much wider entry hole in order to do so. This may be acceptable if you are doing larger pieces, such as fretwork brackets for shelves and trim work, but if you are doing smaller items such as ornaments and other delicate work, you will find that having to use pin ended blades will severely limit the scope of the work you can do. It is for that reason that I highly recommend using a saw that uses pinless blades. Most of the newer saws on the market today fall into this category.
> 
> I often am asked questions as to where to drill the entry holes in a project. While you can certainly drill them anywhere convenient in the waste area, there are usually some better choices that will minimize the time and effort in making a piece.
> 
> When I have a piece with lots of sharp corners, I like to start cutting fairly close a corner. For the same reasons that we started in a corner when doing an outside cut, I feel that it is also best to do so when making an inside cut. The place where we enter and exit our cuts sometimes makes a small bump, and I feel that by starting in an inconspicuous area near a corner, even if there is a small ridge where we enter and exit, it will be very difficult if not impossible to see.
> 
> For this lesson, I have prepared a practice pattern that has lots of sharp inside cuts. You can download the pattern at my Google Documents file here:
> 
> Lesson 7 Practice Sheet
> 
> This is part of a pattern for a self-framing plaque that I designed. It is a pattern that I sell on my site, but I enlarged it a bit so that it would be a little easier for you to practice on. For this lesson, we are only going to work on the frame of the project so I only included that part on the pattern. Next time we will be working on the inside cuts and I will have that part of the pattern for you to download. (You will need to come back for that!)
> 
> Begin by preparing the piece as I showed you in previous lessons, with blue painter's tape and then applying the pattern. (Or use your own favorite method) Cut around the perimeter of the piece so that it is a comfortable size to work with. Place a small drill bit in your drill press and drill out the holes in the waste are of the design. From the picture below you can see that I marked some suggested starting places you can drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course they don't have to be exactly where I indicated - any thing close will do.
> 
> Drill using the smallest bit that will fit your blade through it comfortably. By 'comfortably' I mean that you shouldn't have to struggle to push your blade through the hole, as this could result in bending the blade - especially if you are using a small blade. But you want to keep the entry hole as small as you can. When you are finished drilling the holes, be sure to sand the back of the plaque with some sand paper. Otherwise the bumps from the back of the drill holes will interfere with allowing your piece to sit flat on the scroll saw table.
> 
> After drilling and sanding, we are now ready to cut.
> 
> For my own piece here, I am using 1/2" (Maple) and a size 2-reverse tooth scroll saw blade. You can use anything similar and get the same results.
> 
> Begin by cutting toward the nearest sharp corner. Aim for the pointiest part of the corner. Remember to let up the pressure as you approach it so you don't overshoot the cut. This is a common mistake that beginners make. (you can go back and review lesson #4 HERE if you want to refresh yourself about not putting too much pressure on the blade and getting not over cutting.) When you reach the end of the point - STOP:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back up the saw blade slightly (perhaps a quarter of an inch or so) WITHOUT TURNING IT - simply pull the piece slightly back through the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut forward again toward the line, only this time go slightly to the LEFT of the line your just cut. Again you are going to stop as you get to your line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you are at the line, you should pivot your piece so that you can cut back to meet the tip of the point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, the little triangular piece should fall out (as indicated by the grey area in the illustration):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are then going to turn your piece so that you will be cutting in a clockwise direction and following the line to the next corner. When you get to the next corner, stop again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will then back your blade up just as you did before (approximately 1/4 of an inch or so) without turning the piece or the blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just as we did on the first corner, we are going to cut to the left of the corner and stop at the line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after the small triangle falls out, turn your piece so you can continue in a clockwise direction and continue on to the next corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue in this manner until you come around to where you started. Be sure to back off the pressure you are pushing on your saw when you are approaching the end. If you push too hard, you will have a tendency to over cut into the piece past your starting point.
> 
> For very sharp angles, there is sometimes an easier way to turn the corners - especially when you are using a very small blade. In the second set of pictures, I have a shape with a very acute angle and an obtuse angle (over 90 degrees) to each side of it. In this case, I drilled my entry hole near the obtuse angle, and began cutting from the hole to the corner of it.
> 
> When I reached the line, instead of backing up the blade and cutting a small triangle out like I did in the last example, I simply turned the piece and began following the line in a clockwise direction and continued cutting:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am able to do this because of the large angle. Depending on which size blade you are using, you should be able to turn most obtuse angles in this manner and still have a nice sharp corner. Remember when you are turning to pivot on the corner and slightly lean your piece to the back of the blade to insure that there is no forward moving while you pivot. Continue along the line until you reach the point of the acute angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you reach that point, you will once again back up your piece about 1/4" and then pivot your piece (toward the waste area)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you will back all the way into the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And from that point you will continue cutting in a clockwise direction:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this gives you a clear idea of how to cut corners. Of course, if you are cutting in a counter-clockwise direction, you will just cut the little triangle out from the opposite side and continue accordingly. Once you get the hang of the process, it will be fairly easy and come second nature to you.
> 
> You will find that as most of the time with scroll sawing, the process is a matter of judgement calls. You will learn by practicing which way of turning is best for the particular area you are at. The thing we are aiming for is to have nice, sharp defined corners without 'spin holes' which are rounded areas made from turning the blade. Crisp and clean angles will make your piece look professional and nice.
> 
> Your homework for this week is to finish cutting all the inside cuts of the frame piece provided. This will be really
> good practice for you and by the time you are finished, you should be feeling a bit more comfortable in doing the process. Next lesson we will learn how to do other types of inside cuts and later on we will learn to bevel cut the piece to make a self-framing plaque.
> 
> Below is the video that will demonstrate these three types of turns that I just explained. I think it will help clarify the steps that I showed you in the drawings above.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course, there are other ways that you can turn too. I am sure that others will have some good input as to other methods that work well for them too. As with most of scroll sawing, there are several correct ways to do things.
> 
> I would suggest you use a board approximately 1/2" thick and a #2 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. If you have something else available, I am sure that will work fine too. Try to use the smallest blade you can and still have control and not have to work too hard moving your piece through the saw. If you have to push hard, or if your blade is wandering too much, try going up a size. You will soon get a feel for what is right for the type of wood you have.
> 
> Feel free to ask questions if there is anything that I missed here. I will be finishing up editing the video and getting it posted here as soon as it is done, so be sure to check back later. But for now, this will get you started.
> 
> Thank you again for participating in the class. I hope you are all having fun!


Very good and well demonstrated! Just curious about the grain orientation, will this make a difference whether you start cutting from a crosscut direction? Using a fret saw or coping saw, I start cutting from crossgrain direction to avoid split up, then make the wedge recess the same way you do. Will this be also applicable and must be given attention using scrollsaw?
Thanks Sheila for the lesson.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Inside Corners and Angles*
> 
> So far we have looked at how to prepare our wood, choose a blade, cast on and off a piece and cut outside curves and corners. Now it is time we do some inside cutting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most people associate scroll sawing with cutting fretwork. At first many people don't understand that in order to cut fretwork pieces, you need to drill entry holes in the 'waste area' (or the part of the pattern that drops away when you finish your cut) and thread the blade through that drilled hole to cut out the inside piece. This is why it is so important to many scroll sawyers to have a scroll saw that uses *pinless *blades, or blades that have flat ends and attach to the scroll saw by a chuck or a screw squeezing the blade tight to hold it in place while you are cutting.
> 
> Many older and industrial saws used *pin ended blades. *. These are blades have a small pin going through the end of them and look kind of like a 't'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the blade rests in some sort of channel on the end of the arm of the scroll saw and the tension is then tightened to hold the blade in place. While this is an effective way to hold the blade in the saw, it is not always the most practical when doing decorative and delicate scroll saw work.
> 
> The pins at the end of the blades mean that in order to thread the blade through the wood, you would need a much wider entry hole in order to do so. This may be acceptable if you are doing larger pieces, such as fretwork brackets for shelves and trim work, but if you are doing smaller items such as ornaments and other delicate work, you will find that having to use pin ended blades will severely limit the scope of the work you can do. It is for that reason that I highly recommend using a saw that uses pinless blades. Most of the newer saws on the market today fall into this category.
> 
> I often am asked questions as to where to drill the entry holes in a project. While you can certainly drill them anywhere convenient in the waste area, there are usually some better choices that will minimize the time and effort in making a piece.
> 
> When I have a piece with lots of sharp corners, I like to start cutting fairly close a corner. For the same reasons that we started in a corner when doing an outside cut, I feel that it is also best to do so when making an inside cut. The place where we enter and exit our cuts sometimes makes a small bump, and I feel that by starting in an inconspicuous area near a corner, even if there is a small ridge where we enter and exit, it will be very difficult if not impossible to see.
> 
> For this lesson, I have prepared a practice pattern that has lots of sharp inside cuts. You can download the pattern at my Google Documents file here:
> 
> Lesson 7 Practice Sheet
> 
> This is part of a pattern for a self-framing plaque that I designed. It is a pattern that I sell on my site, but I enlarged it a bit so that it would be a little easier for you to practice on. For this lesson, we are only going to work on the frame of the project so I only included that part on the pattern. Next time we will be working on the inside cuts and I will have that part of the pattern for you to download. (You will need to come back for that!)
> 
> Begin by preparing the piece as I showed you in previous lessons, with blue painter's tape and then applying the pattern. (Or use your own favorite method) Cut around the perimeter of the piece so that it is a comfortable size to work with. Place a small drill bit in your drill press and drill out the holes in the waste are of the design. From the picture below you can see that I marked some suggested starting places you can drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course they don't have to be exactly where I indicated - any thing close will do.
> 
> Drill using the smallest bit that will fit your blade through it comfortably. By 'comfortably' I mean that you shouldn't have to struggle to push your blade through the hole, as this could result in bending the blade - especially if you are using a small blade. But you want to keep the entry hole as small as you can. When you are finished drilling the holes, be sure to sand the back of the plaque with some sand paper. Otherwise the bumps from the back of the drill holes will interfere with allowing your piece to sit flat on the scroll saw table.
> 
> After drilling and sanding, we are now ready to cut.
> 
> For my own piece here, I am using 1/2" (Maple) and a size 2-reverse tooth scroll saw blade. You can use anything similar and get the same results.
> 
> Begin by cutting toward the nearest sharp corner. Aim for the pointiest part of the corner. Remember to let up the pressure as you approach it so you don't overshoot the cut. This is a common mistake that beginners make. (you can go back and review lesson #4 HERE if you want to refresh yourself about not putting too much pressure on the blade and getting not over cutting.) When you reach the end of the point - STOP:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back up the saw blade slightly (perhaps a quarter of an inch or so) WITHOUT TURNING IT - simply pull the piece slightly back through the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut forward again toward the line, only this time go slightly to the LEFT of the line your just cut. Again you are going to stop as you get to your line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you are at the line, you should pivot your piece so that you can cut back to meet the tip of the point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, the little triangular piece should fall out (as indicated by the grey area in the illustration):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are then going to turn your piece so that you will be cutting in a clockwise direction and following the line to the next corner. When you get to the next corner, stop again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will then back your blade up just as you did before (approximately 1/4 of an inch or so) without turning the piece or the blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just as we did on the first corner, we are going to cut to the left of the corner and stop at the line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after the small triangle falls out, turn your piece so you can continue in a clockwise direction and continue on to the next corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue in this manner until you come around to where you started. Be sure to back off the pressure you are pushing on your saw when you are approaching the end. If you push too hard, you will have a tendency to over cut into the piece past your starting point.
> 
> For very sharp angles, there is sometimes an easier way to turn the corners - especially when you are using a very small blade. In the second set of pictures, I have a shape with a very acute angle and an obtuse angle (over 90 degrees) to each side of it. In this case, I drilled my entry hole near the obtuse angle, and began cutting from the hole to the corner of it.
> 
> When I reached the line, instead of backing up the blade and cutting a small triangle out like I did in the last example, I simply turned the piece and began following the line in a clockwise direction and continued cutting:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am able to do this because of the large angle. Depending on which size blade you are using, you should be able to turn most obtuse angles in this manner and still have a nice sharp corner. Remember when you are turning to pivot on the corner and slightly lean your piece to the back of the blade to insure that there is no forward moving while you pivot. Continue along the line until you reach the point of the acute angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you reach that point, you will once again back up your piece about 1/4" and then pivot your piece (toward the waste area)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you will back all the way into the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And from that point you will continue cutting in a clockwise direction:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this gives you a clear idea of how to cut corners. Of course, if you are cutting in a counter-clockwise direction, you will just cut the little triangle out from the opposite side and continue accordingly. Once you get the hang of the process, it will be fairly easy and come second nature to you.
> 
> You will find that as most of the time with scroll sawing, the process is a matter of judgement calls. You will learn by practicing which way of turning is best for the particular area you are at. The thing we are aiming for is to have nice, sharp defined corners without 'spin holes' which are rounded areas made from turning the blade. Crisp and clean angles will make your piece look professional and nice.
> 
> Your homework for this week is to finish cutting all the inside cuts of the frame piece provided. This will be really
> good practice for you and by the time you are finished, you should be feeling a bit more comfortable in doing the process. Next lesson we will learn how to do other types of inside cuts and later on we will learn to bevel cut the piece to make a self-framing plaque.
> 
> Below is the video that will demonstrate these three types of turns that I just explained. I think it will help clarify the steps that I showed you in the drawings above.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course, there are other ways that you can turn too. I am sure that others will have some good input as to other methods that work well for them too. As with most of scroll sawing, there are several correct ways to do things.
> 
> I would suggest you use a board approximately 1/2" thick and a #2 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. If you have something else available, I am sure that will work fine too. Try to use the smallest blade you can and still have control and not have to work too hard moving your piece through the saw. If you have to push hard, or if your blade is wandering too much, try going up a size. You will soon get a feel for what is right for the type of wood you have.
> 
> Feel free to ask questions if there is anything that I missed here. I will be finishing up editing the video and getting it posted here as soon as it is done, so be sure to check back later. But for now, this will get you started.
> 
> Thank you again for participating in the class. I hope you are all having fun!


Glad that you see these ideas helpful, Vicki. There is much that is trial and error, and a little patience. There are many variables to fine tune in the beginning. But once learned, everything comes very easily. Patience. 

Bert, the grain orientation is inconsequential in a design such as this. Since the pattern radiates in all directions around the frame, there is no perfect way to lay the design our I placed the design with the grain vertical because of the width of the wood necessary.

I have never really noticed a huge difference when cutting into end grain vs. cross grain. Sometimes when cutting a circle or even a straight run you can feel the blade pulling a bit to one side or the other when you are following the grain. The solution for this I feel is to go up a blade size on these types of cuts and use a slightly over sized blade. I usually use nothing less than a size 5 for longer and straighter cuts like this (although now I discover that I really do like the Mach blades in size 3 for this type of cutting. They are incredibly sharp and accurate.) Speeding up the saw a bit also helps reduce the blade following the grain, I find. But you still need to keep it at a speed in which you can handle following the design. I can see how cutting by hand with a coping saw would make it harder to control.

I hope this makes sense.  Sheila


----------



## BertFlores58

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Inside Corners and Angles*
> 
> So far we have looked at how to prepare our wood, choose a blade, cast on and off a piece and cut outside curves and corners. Now it is time we do some inside cutting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most people associate scroll sawing with cutting fretwork. At first many people don't understand that in order to cut fretwork pieces, you need to drill entry holes in the 'waste area' (or the part of the pattern that drops away when you finish your cut) and thread the blade through that drilled hole to cut out the inside piece. This is why it is so important to many scroll sawyers to have a scroll saw that uses *pinless *blades, or blades that have flat ends and attach to the scroll saw by a chuck or a screw squeezing the blade tight to hold it in place while you are cutting.
> 
> Many older and industrial saws used *pin ended blades. *. These are blades have a small pin going through the end of them and look kind of like a 't'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the blade rests in some sort of channel on the end of the arm of the scroll saw and the tension is then tightened to hold the blade in place. While this is an effective way to hold the blade in the saw, it is not always the most practical when doing decorative and delicate scroll saw work.
> 
> The pins at the end of the blades mean that in order to thread the blade through the wood, you would need a much wider entry hole in order to do so. This may be acceptable if you are doing larger pieces, such as fretwork brackets for shelves and trim work, but if you are doing smaller items such as ornaments and other delicate work, you will find that having to use pin ended blades will severely limit the scope of the work you can do. It is for that reason that I highly recommend using a saw that uses pinless blades. Most of the newer saws on the market today fall into this category.
> 
> I often am asked questions as to where to drill the entry holes in a project. While you can certainly drill them anywhere convenient in the waste area, there are usually some better choices that will minimize the time and effort in making a piece.
> 
> When I have a piece with lots of sharp corners, I like to start cutting fairly close a corner. For the same reasons that we started in a corner when doing an outside cut, I feel that it is also best to do so when making an inside cut. The place where we enter and exit our cuts sometimes makes a small bump, and I feel that by starting in an inconspicuous area near a corner, even if there is a small ridge where we enter and exit, it will be very difficult if not impossible to see.
> 
> For this lesson, I have prepared a practice pattern that has lots of sharp inside cuts. You can download the pattern at my Google Documents file here:
> 
> Lesson 7 Practice Sheet
> 
> This is part of a pattern for a self-framing plaque that I designed. It is a pattern that I sell on my site, but I enlarged it a bit so that it would be a little easier for you to practice on. For this lesson, we are only going to work on the frame of the project so I only included that part on the pattern. Next time we will be working on the inside cuts and I will have that part of the pattern for you to download. (You will need to come back for that!)
> 
> Begin by preparing the piece as I showed you in previous lessons, with blue painter's tape and then applying the pattern. (Or use your own favorite method) Cut around the perimeter of the piece so that it is a comfortable size to work with. Place a small drill bit in your drill press and drill out the holes in the waste are of the design. From the picture below you can see that I marked some suggested starting places you can drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course they don't have to be exactly where I indicated - any thing close will do.
> 
> Drill using the smallest bit that will fit your blade through it comfortably. By 'comfortably' I mean that you shouldn't have to struggle to push your blade through the hole, as this could result in bending the blade - especially if you are using a small blade. But you want to keep the entry hole as small as you can. When you are finished drilling the holes, be sure to sand the back of the plaque with some sand paper. Otherwise the bumps from the back of the drill holes will interfere with allowing your piece to sit flat on the scroll saw table.
> 
> After drilling and sanding, we are now ready to cut.
> 
> For my own piece here, I am using 1/2" (Maple) and a size 2-reverse tooth scroll saw blade. You can use anything similar and get the same results.
> 
> Begin by cutting toward the nearest sharp corner. Aim for the pointiest part of the corner. Remember to let up the pressure as you approach it so you don't overshoot the cut. This is a common mistake that beginners make. (you can go back and review lesson #4 HERE if you want to refresh yourself about not putting too much pressure on the blade and getting not over cutting.) When you reach the end of the point - STOP:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back up the saw blade slightly (perhaps a quarter of an inch or so) WITHOUT TURNING IT - simply pull the piece slightly back through the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut forward again toward the line, only this time go slightly to the LEFT of the line your just cut. Again you are going to stop as you get to your line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you are at the line, you should pivot your piece so that you can cut back to meet the tip of the point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, the little triangular piece should fall out (as indicated by the grey area in the illustration):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are then going to turn your piece so that you will be cutting in a clockwise direction and following the line to the next corner. When you get to the next corner, stop again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will then back your blade up just as you did before (approximately 1/4 of an inch or so) without turning the piece or the blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just as we did on the first corner, we are going to cut to the left of the corner and stop at the line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after the small triangle falls out, turn your piece so you can continue in a clockwise direction and continue on to the next corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue in this manner until you come around to where you started. Be sure to back off the pressure you are pushing on your saw when you are approaching the end. If you push too hard, you will have a tendency to over cut into the piece past your starting point.
> 
> For very sharp angles, there is sometimes an easier way to turn the corners - especially when you are using a very small blade. In the second set of pictures, I have a shape with a very acute angle and an obtuse angle (over 90 degrees) to each side of it. In this case, I drilled my entry hole near the obtuse angle, and began cutting from the hole to the corner of it.
> 
> When I reached the line, instead of backing up the blade and cutting a small triangle out like I did in the last example, I simply turned the piece and began following the line in a clockwise direction and continued cutting:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am able to do this because of the large angle. Depending on which size blade you are using, you should be able to turn most obtuse angles in this manner and still have a nice sharp corner. Remember when you are turning to pivot on the corner and slightly lean your piece to the back of the blade to insure that there is no forward moving while you pivot. Continue along the line until you reach the point of the acute angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you reach that point, you will once again back up your piece about 1/4" and then pivot your piece (toward the waste area)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you will back all the way into the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And from that point you will continue cutting in a clockwise direction:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this gives you a clear idea of how to cut corners. Of course, if you are cutting in a counter-clockwise direction, you will just cut the little triangle out from the opposite side and continue accordingly. Once you get the hang of the process, it will be fairly easy and come second nature to you.
> 
> You will find that as most of the time with scroll sawing, the process is a matter of judgement calls. You will learn by practicing which way of turning is best for the particular area you are at. The thing we are aiming for is to have nice, sharp defined corners without 'spin holes' which are rounded areas made from turning the blade. Crisp and clean angles will make your piece look professional and nice.
> 
> Your homework for this week is to finish cutting all the inside cuts of the frame piece provided. This will be really
> good practice for you and by the time you are finished, you should be feeling a bit more comfortable in doing the process. Next lesson we will learn how to do other types of inside cuts and later on we will learn to bevel cut the piece to make a self-framing plaque.
> 
> Below is the video that will demonstrate these three types of turns that I just explained. I think it will help clarify the steps that I showed you in the drawings above.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course, there are other ways that you can turn too. I am sure that others will have some good input as to other methods that work well for them too. As with most of scroll sawing, there are several correct ways to do things.
> 
> I would suggest you use a board approximately 1/2" thick and a #2 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. If you have something else available, I am sure that will work fine too. Try to use the smallest blade you can and still have control and not have to work too hard moving your piece through the saw. If you have to push hard, or if your blade is wandering too much, try going up a size. You will soon get a feel for what is right for the type of wood you have.
> 
> Feel free to ask questions if there is anything that I missed here. I will be finishing up editing the video and getting it posted here as soon as it is done, so be sure to check back later. But for now, this will get you started.
> 
> Thank you again for participating in the class. I hope you are all having fun!


Thanks Sheila,
Next opportunity, I will remember and apply this. A very comprehensive idea in developing one's skill.


----------



## LittlePaw

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Inside Corners and Angles*
> 
> So far we have looked at how to prepare our wood, choose a blade, cast on and off a piece and cut outside curves and corners. Now it is time we do some inside cutting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most people associate scroll sawing with cutting fretwork. At first many people don't understand that in order to cut fretwork pieces, you need to drill entry holes in the 'waste area' (or the part of the pattern that drops away when you finish your cut) and thread the blade through that drilled hole to cut out the inside piece. This is why it is so important to many scroll sawyers to have a scroll saw that uses *pinless *blades, or blades that have flat ends and attach to the scroll saw by a chuck or a screw squeezing the blade tight to hold it in place while you are cutting.
> 
> Many older and industrial saws used *pin ended blades. *. These are blades have a small pin going through the end of them and look kind of like a 't'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the blade rests in some sort of channel on the end of the arm of the scroll saw and the tension is then tightened to hold the blade in place. While this is an effective way to hold the blade in the saw, it is not always the most practical when doing decorative and delicate scroll saw work.
> 
> The pins at the end of the blades mean that in order to thread the blade through the wood, you would need a much wider entry hole in order to do so. This may be acceptable if you are doing larger pieces, such as fretwork brackets for shelves and trim work, but if you are doing smaller items such as ornaments and other delicate work, you will find that having to use pin ended blades will severely limit the scope of the work you can do. It is for that reason that I highly recommend using a saw that uses pinless blades. Most of the newer saws on the market today fall into this category.
> 
> I often am asked questions as to where to drill the entry holes in a project. While you can certainly drill them anywhere convenient in the waste area, there are usually some better choices that will minimize the time and effort in making a piece.
> 
> When I have a piece with lots of sharp corners, I like to start cutting fairly close a corner. For the same reasons that we started in a corner when doing an outside cut, I feel that it is also best to do so when making an inside cut. The place where we enter and exit our cuts sometimes makes a small bump, and I feel that by starting in an inconspicuous area near a corner, even if there is a small ridge where we enter and exit, it will be very difficult if not impossible to see.
> 
> For this lesson, I have prepared a practice pattern that has lots of sharp inside cuts. You can download the pattern at my Google Documents file here:
> 
> Lesson 7 Practice Sheet
> 
> This is part of a pattern for a self-framing plaque that I designed. It is a pattern that I sell on my site, but I enlarged it a bit so that it would be a little easier for you to practice on. For this lesson, we are only going to work on the frame of the project so I only included that part on the pattern. Next time we will be working on the inside cuts and I will have that part of the pattern for you to download. (You will need to come back for that!)
> 
> Begin by preparing the piece as I showed you in previous lessons, with blue painter's tape and then applying the pattern. (Or use your own favorite method) Cut around the perimeter of the piece so that it is a comfortable size to work with. Place a small drill bit in your drill press and drill out the holes in the waste are of the design. From the picture below you can see that I marked some suggested starting places you can drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course they don't have to be exactly where I indicated - any thing close will do.
> 
> Drill using the smallest bit that will fit your blade through it comfortably. By 'comfortably' I mean that you shouldn't have to struggle to push your blade through the hole, as this could result in bending the blade - especially if you are using a small blade. But you want to keep the entry hole as small as you can. When you are finished drilling the holes, be sure to sand the back of the plaque with some sand paper. Otherwise the bumps from the back of the drill holes will interfere with allowing your piece to sit flat on the scroll saw table.
> 
> After drilling and sanding, we are now ready to cut.
> 
> For my own piece here, I am using 1/2" (Maple) and a size 2-reverse tooth scroll saw blade. You can use anything similar and get the same results.
> 
> Begin by cutting toward the nearest sharp corner. Aim for the pointiest part of the corner. Remember to let up the pressure as you approach it so you don't overshoot the cut. This is a common mistake that beginners make. (you can go back and review lesson #4 HERE if you want to refresh yourself about not putting too much pressure on the blade and getting not over cutting.) When you reach the end of the point - STOP:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back up the saw blade slightly (perhaps a quarter of an inch or so) WITHOUT TURNING IT - simply pull the piece slightly back through the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut forward again toward the line, only this time go slightly to the LEFT of the line your just cut. Again you are going to stop as you get to your line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you are at the line, you should pivot your piece so that you can cut back to meet the tip of the point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, the little triangular piece should fall out (as indicated by the grey area in the illustration):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are then going to turn your piece so that you will be cutting in a clockwise direction and following the line to the next corner. When you get to the next corner, stop again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will then back your blade up just as you did before (approximately 1/4 of an inch or so) without turning the piece or the blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just as we did on the first corner, we are going to cut to the left of the corner and stop at the line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after the small triangle falls out, turn your piece so you can continue in a clockwise direction and continue on to the next corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue in this manner until you come around to where you started. Be sure to back off the pressure you are pushing on your saw when you are approaching the end. If you push too hard, you will have a tendency to over cut into the piece past your starting point.
> 
> For very sharp angles, there is sometimes an easier way to turn the corners - especially when you are using a very small blade. In the second set of pictures, I have a shape with a very acute angle and an obtuse angle (over 90 degrees) to each side of it. In this case, I drilled my entry hole near the obtuse angle, and began cutting from the hole to the corner of it.
> 
> When I reached the line, instead of backing up the blade and cutting a small triangle out like I did in the last example, I simply turned the piece and began following the line in a clockwise direction and continued cutting:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am able to do this because of the large angle. Depending on which size blade you are using, you should be able to turn most obtuse angles in this manner and still have a nice sharp corner. Remember when you are turning to pivot on the corner and slightly lean your piece to the back of the blade to insure that there is no forward moving while you pivot. Continue along the line until you reach the point of the acute angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you reach that point, you will once again back up your piece about 1/4" and then pivot your piece (toward the waste area)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you will back all the way into the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And from that point you will continue cutting in a clockwise direction:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this gives you a clear idea of how to cut corners. Of course, if you are cutting in a counter-clockwise direction, you will just cut the little triangle out from the opposite side and continue accordingly. Once you get the hang of the process, it will be fairly easy and come second nature to you.
> 
> You will find that as most of the time with scroll sawing, the process is a matter of judgement calls. You will learn by practicing which way of turning is best for the particular area you are at. The thing we are aiming for is to have nice, sharp defined corners without 'spin holes' which are rounded areas made from turning the blade. Crisp and clean angles will make your piece look professional and nice.
> 
> Your homework for this week is to finish cutting all the inside cuts of the frame piece provided. This will be really
> good practice for you and by the time you are finished, you should be feeling a bit more comfortable in doing the process. Next lesson we will learn how to do other types of inside cuts and later on we will learn to bevel cut the piece to make a self-framing plaque.
> 
> Below is the video that will demonstrate these three types of turns that I just explained. I think it will help clarify the steps that I showed you in the drawings above.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course, there are other ways that you can turn too. I am sure that others will have some good input as to other methods that work well for them too. As with most of scroll sawing, there are several correct ways to do things.
> 
> I would suggest you use a board approximately 1/2" thick and a #2 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. If you have something else available, I am sure that will work fine too. Try to use the smallest blade you can and still have control and not have to work too hard moving your piece through the saw. If you have to push hard, or if your blade is wandering too much, try going up a size. You will soon get a feel for what is right for the type of wood you have.
> 
> Feel free to ask questions if there is anything that I missed here. I will be finishing up editing the video and getting it posted here as soon as it is done, so be sure to check back later. But for now, this will get you started.
> 
> Thank you again for participating in the class. I hope you are all having fun!


Hi Sheila, you know that I am new to scrollsawing. I really enjoyed watching your video and I learned a lot, especially the sharp angles. Thanx, Sheila.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Inside Corners and Angles*
> 
> So far we have looked at how to prepare our wood, choose a blade, cast on and off a piece and cut outside curves and corners. Now it is time we do some inside cutting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most people associate scroll sawing with cutting fretwork. At first many people don't understand that in order to cut fretwork pieces, you need to drill entry holes in the 'waste area' (or the part of the pattern that drops away when you finish your cut) and thread the blade through that drilled hole to cut out the inside piece. This is why it is so important to many scroll sawyers to have a scroll saw that uses *pinless *blades, or blades that have flat ends and attach to the scroll saw by a chuck or a screw squeezing the blade tight to hold it in place while you are cutting.
> 
> Many older and industrial saws used *pin ended blades. *. These are blades have a small pin going through the end of them and look kind of like a 't'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the blade rests in some sort of channel on the end of the arm of the scroll saw and the tension is then tightened to hold the blade in place. While this is an effective way to hold the blade in the saw, it is not always the most practical when doing decorative and delicate scroll saw work.
> 
> The pins at the end of the blades mean that in order to thread the blade through the wood, you would need a much wider entry hole in order to do so. This may be acceptable if you are doing larger pieces, such as fretwork brackets for shelves and trim work, but if you are doing smaller items such as ornaments and other delicate work, you will find that having to use pin ended blades will severely limit the scope of the work you can do. It is for that reason that I highly recommend using a saw that uses pinless blades. Most of the newer saws on the market today fall into this category.
> 
> I often am asked questions as to where to drill the entry holes in a project. While you can certainly drill them anywhere convenient in the waste area, there are usually some better choices that will minimize the time and effort in making a piece.
> 
> When I have a piece with lots of sharp corners, I like to start cutting fairly close a corner. For the same reasons that we started in a corner when doing an outside cut, I feel that it is also best to do so when making an inside cut. The place where we enter and exit our cuts sometimes makes a small bump, and I feel that by starting in an inconspicuous area near a corner, even if there is a small ridge where we enter and exit, it will be very difficult if not impossible to see.
> 
> For this lesson, I have prepared a practice pattern that has lots of sharp inside cuts. You can download the pattern at my Google Documents file here:
> 
> Lesson 7 Practice Sheet
> 
> This is part of a pattern for a self-framing plaque that I designed. It is a pattern that I sell on my site, but I enlarged it a bit so that it would be a little easier for you to practice on. For this lesson, we are only going to work on the frame of the project so I only included that part on the pattern. Next time we will be working on the inside cuts and I will have that part of the pattern for you to download. (You will need to come back for that!)
> 
> Begin by preparing the piece as I showed you in previous lessons, with blue painter's tape and then applying the pattern. (Or use your own favorite method) Cut around the perimeter of the piece so that it is a comfortable size to work with. Place a small drill bit in your drill press and drill out the holes in the waste are of the design. From the picture below you can see that I marked some suggested starting places you can drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course they don't have to be exactly where I indicated - any thing close will do.
> 
> Drill using the smallest bit that will fit your blade through it comfortably. By 'comfortably' I mean that you shouldn't have to struggle to push your blade through the hole, as this could result in bending the blade - especially if you are using a small blade. But you want to keep the entry hole as small as you can. When you are finished drilling the holes, be sure to sand the back of the plaque with some sand paper. Otherwise the bumps from the back of the drill holes will interfere with allowing your piece to sit flat on the scroll saw table.
> 
> After drilling and sanding, we are now ready to cut.
> 
> For my own piece here, I am using 1/2" (Maple) and a size 2-reverse tooth scroll saw blade. You can use anything similar and get the same results.
> 
> Begin by cutting toward the nearest sharp corner. Aim for the pointiest part of the corner. Remember to let up the pressure as you approach it so you don't overshoot the cut. This is a common mistake that beginners make. (you can go back and review lesson #4 HERE if you want to refresh yourself about not putting too much pressure on the blade and getting not over cutting.) When you reach the end of the point - STOP:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back up the saw blade slightly (perhaps a quarter of an inch or so) WITHOUT TURNING IT - simply pull the piece slightly back through the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut forward again toward the line, only this time go slightly to the LEFT of the line your just cut. Again you are going to stop as you get to your line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you are at the line, you should pivot your piece so that you can cut back to meet the tip of the point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, the little triangular piece should fall out (as indicated by the grey area in the illustration):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are then going to turn your piece so that you will be cutting in a clockwise direction and following the line to the next corner. When you get to the next corner, stop again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will then back your blade up just as you did before (approximately 1/4 of an inch or so) without turning the piece or the blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just as we did on the first corner, we are going to cut to the left of the corner and stop at the line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after the small triangle falls out, turn your piece so you can continue in a clockwise direction and continue on to the next corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue in this manner until you come around to where you started. Be sure to back off the pressure you are pushing on your saw when you are approaching the end. If you push too hard, you will have a tendency to over cut into the piece past your starting point.
> 
> For very sharp angles, there is sometimes an easier way to turn the corners - especially when you are using a very small blade. In the second set of pictures, I have a shape with a very acute angle and an obtuse angle (over 90 degrees) to each side of it. In this case, I drilled my entry hole near the obtuse angle, and began cutting from the hole to the corner of it.
> 
> When I reached the line, instead of backing up the blade and cutting a small triangle out like I did in the last example, I simply turned the piece and began following the line in a clockwise direction and continued cutting:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am able to do this because of the large angle. Depending on which size blade you are using, you should be able to turn most obtuse angles in this manner and still have a nice sharp corner. Remember when you are turning to pivot on the corner and slightly lean your piece to the back of the blade to insure that there is no forward moving while you pivot. Continue along the line until you reach the point of the acute angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you reach that point, you will once again back up your piece about 1/4" and then pivot your piece (toward the waste area)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you will back all the way into the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And from that point you will continue cutting in a clockwise direction:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this gives you a clear idea of how to cut corners. Of course, if you are cutting in a counter-clockwise direction, you will just cut the little triangle out from the opposite side and continue accordingly. Once you get the hang of the process, it will be fairly easy and come second nature to you.
> 
> You will find that as most of the time with scroll sawing, the process is a matter of judgement calls. You will learn by practicing which way of turning is best for the particular area you are at. The thing we are aiming for is to have nice, sharp defined corners without 'spin holes' which are rounded areas made from turning the blade. Crisp and clean angles will make your piece look professional and nice.
> 
> Your homework for this week is to finish cutting all the inside cuts of the frame piece provided. This will be really
> good practice for you and by the time you are finished, you should be feeling a bit more comfortable in doing the process. Next lesson we will learn how to do other types of inside cuts and later on we will learn to bevel cut the piece to make a self-framing plaque.
> 
> Below is the video that will demonstrate these three types of turns that I just explained. I think it will help clarify the steps that I showed you in the drawings above.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course, there are other ways that you can turn too. I am sure that others will have some good input as to other methods that work well for them too. As with most of scroll sawing, there are several correct ways to do things.
> 
> I would suggest you use a board approximately 1/2" thick and a #2 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. If you have something else available, I am sure that will work fine too. Try to use the smallest blade you can and still have control and not have to work too hard moving your piece through the saw. If you have to push hard, or if your blade is wandering too much, try going up a size. You will soon get a feel for what is right for the type of wood you have.
> 
> Feel free to ask questions if there is anything that I missed here. I will be finishing up editing the video and getting it posted here as soon as it is done, so be sure to check back later. But for now, this will get you started.
> 
> Thank you again for participating in the class. I hope you are all having fun!


So glad you found it helpful, LittlePaw! Now I can't wait to see what you are going to make! 

Take care, Sheila


----------



## Pdub

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Inside Corners and Angles*
> 
> So far we have looked at how to prepare our wood, choose a blade, cast on and off a piece and cut outside curves and corners. Now it is time we do some inside cutting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most people associate scroll sawing with cutting fretwork. At first many people don't understand that in order to cut fretwork pieces, you need to drill entry holes in the 'waste area' (or the part of the pattern that drops away when you finish your cut) and thread the blade through that drilled hole to cut out the inside piece. This is why it is so important to many scroll sawyers to have a scroll saw that uses *pinless *blades, or blades that have flat ends and attach to the scroll saw by a chuck or a screw squeezing the blade tight to hold it in place while you are cutting.
> 
> Many older and industrial saws used *pin ended blades. *. These are blades have a small pin going through the end of them and look kind of like a 't'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the blade rests in some sort of channel on the end of the arm of the scroll saw and the tension is then tightened to hold the blade in place. While this is an effective way to hold the blade in the saw, it is not always the most practical when doing decorative and delicate scroll saw work.
> 
> The pins at the end of the blades mean that in order to thread the blade through the wood, you would need a much wider entry hole in order to do so. This may be acceptable if you are doing larger pieces, such as fretwork brackets for shelves and trim work, but if you are doing smaller items such as ornaments and other delicate work, you will find that having to use pin ended blades will severely limit the scope of the work you can do. It is for that reason that I highly recommend using a saw that uses pinless blades. Most of the newer saws on the market today fall into this category.
> 
> I often am asked questions as to where to drill the entry holes in a project. While you can certainly drill them anywhere convenient in the waste area, there are usually some better choices that will minimize the time and effort in making a piece.
> 
> When I have a piece with lots of sharp corners, I like to start cutting fairly close a corner. For the same reasons that we started in a corner when doing an outside cut, I feel that it is also best to do so when making an inside cut. The place where we enter and exit our cuts sometimes makes a small bump, and I feel that by starting in an inconspicuous area near a corner, even if there is a small ridge where we enter and exit, it will be very difficult if not impossible to see.
> 
> For this lesson, I have prepared a practice pattern that has lots of sharp inside cuts. You can download the pattern at my Google Documents file here:
> 
> Lesson 7 Practice Sheet
> 
> This is part of a pattern for a self-framing plaque that I designed. It is a pattern that I sell on my site, but I enlarged it a bit so that it would be a little easier for you to practice on. For this lesson, we are only going to work on the frame of the project so I only included that part on the pattern. Next time we will be working on the inside cuts and I will have that part of the pattern for you to download. (You will need to come back for that!)
> 
> Begin by preparing the piece as I showed you in previous lessons, with blue painter's tape and then applying the pattern. (Or use your own favorite method) Cut around the perimeter of the piece so that it is a comfortable size to work with. Place a small drill bit in your drill press and drill out the holes in the waste are of the design. From the picture below you can see that I marked some suggested starting places you can drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course they don't have to be exactly where I indicated - any thing close will do.
> 
> Drill using the smallest bit that will fit your blade through it comfortably. By 'comfortably' I mean that you shouldn't have to struggle to push your blade through the hole, as this could result in bending the blade - especially if you are using a small blade. But you want to keep the entry hole as small as you can. When you are finished drilling the holes, be sure to sand the back of the plaque with some sand paper. Otherwise the bumps from the back of the drill holes will interfere with allowing your piece to sit flat on the scroll saw table.
> 
> After drilling and sanding, we are now ready to cut.
> 
> For my own piece here, I am using 1/2" (Maple) and a size 2-reverse tooth scroll saw blade. You can use anything similar and get the same results.
> 
> Begin by cutting toward the nearest sharp corner. Aim for the pointiest part of the corner. Remember to let up the pressure as you approach it so you don't overshoot the cut. This is a common mistake that beginners make. (you can go back and review lesson #4 HERE if you want to refresh yourself about not putting too much pressure on the blade and getting not over cutting.) When you reach the end of the point - STOP:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back up the saw blade slightly (perhaps a quarter of an inch or so) WITHOUT TURNING IT - simply pull the piece slightly back through the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut forward again toward the line, only this time go slightly to the LEFT of the line your just cut. Again you are going to stop as you get to your line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you are at the line, you should pivot your piece so that you can cut back to meet the tip of the point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, the little triangular piece should fall out (as indicated by the grey area in the illustration):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are then going to turn your piece so that you will be cutting in a clockwise direction and following the line to the next corner. When you get to the next corner, stop again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will then back your blade up just as you did before (approximately 1/4 of an inch or so) without turning the piece or the blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just as we did on the first corner, we are going to cut to the left of the corner and stop at the line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after the small triangle falls out, turn your piece so you can continue in a clockwise direction and continue on to the next corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue in this manner until you come around to where you started. Be sure to back off the pressure you are pushing on your saw when you are approaching the end. If you push too hard, you will have a tendency to over cut into the piece past your starting point.
> 
> For very sharp angles, there is sometimes an easier way to turn the corners - especially when you are using a very small blade. In the second set of pictures, I have a shape with a very acute angle and an obtuse angle (over 90 degrees) to each side of it. In this case, I drilled my entry hole near the obtuse angle, and began cutting from the hole to the corner of it.
> 
> When I reached the line, instead of backing up the blade and cutting a small triangle out like I did in the last example, I simply turned the piece and began following the line in a clockwise direction and continued cutting:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am able to do this because of the large angle. Depending on which size blade you are using, you should be able to turn most obtuse angles in this manner and still have a nice sharp corner. Remember when you are turning to pivot on the corner and slightly lean your piece to the back of the blade to insure that there is no forward moving while you pivot. Continue along the line until you reach the point of the acute angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you reach that point, you will once again back up your piece about 1/4" and then pivot your piece (toward the waste area)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you will back all the way into the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And from that point you will continue cutting in a clockwise direction:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this gives you a clear idea of how to cut corners. Of course, if you are cutting in a counter-clockwise direction, you will just cut the little triangle out from the opposite side and continue accordingly. Once you get the hang of the process, it will be fairly easy and come second nature to you.
> 
> You will find that as most of the time with scroll sawing, the process is a matter of judgement calls. You will learn by practicing which way of turning is best for the particular area you are at. The thing we are aiming for is to have nice, sharp defined corners without 'spin holes' which are rounded areas made from turning the blade. Crisp and clean angles will make your piece look professional and nice.
> 
> Your homework for this week is to finish cutting all the inside cuts of the frame piece provided. This will be really
> good practice for you and by the time you are finished, you should be feeling a bit more comfortable in doing the process. Next lesson we will learn how to do other types of inside cuts and later on we will learn to bevel cut the piece to make a self-framing plaque.
> 
> Below is the video that will demonstrate these three types of turns that I just explained. I think it will help clarify the steps that I showed you in the drawings above.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course, there are other ways that you can turn too. I am sure that others will have some good input as to other methods that work well for them too. As with most of scroll sawing, there are several correct ways to do things.
> 
> I would suggest you use a board approximately 1/2" thick and a #2 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. If you have something else available, I am sure that will work fine too. Try to use the smallest blade you can and still have control and not have to work too hard moving your piece through the saw. If you have to push hard, or if your blade is wandering too much, try going up a size. You will soon get a feel for what is right for the type of wood you have.
> 
> Feel free to ask questions if there is anything that I missed here. I will be finishing up editing the video and getting it posted here as soon as it is done, so be sure to check back later. But for now, this will get you started.
> 
> Thank you again for participating in the class. I hope you are all having fun!


Hey Sheila, it makes me feel good to know that I have been cutting sharp angles the right way. When I first started scrolling, everything I read said to turn as tight a corner as possible . One day I used the method that you demonstrated and have been doing it like that ever since. It's great that you put this together to help all of the scrollers ,new and experienced (notice I didn't say OLD). I gonna have to keep an eye on this series and see if you can teach this old dog some new tricks. Thanks!!!!

Paul


----------



## Blondewood

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Inside Corners and Angles*
> 
> So far we have looked at how to prepare our wood, choose a blade, cast on and off a piece and cut outside curves and corners. Now it is time we do some inside cutting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most people associate scroll sawing with cutting fretwork. At first many people don't understand that in order to cut fretwork pieces, you need to drill entry holes in the 'waste area' (or the part of the pattern that drops away when you finish your cut) and thread the blade through that drilled hole to cut out the inside piece. This is why it is so important to many scroll sawyers to have a scroll saw that uses *pinless *blades, or blades that have flat ends and attach to the scroll saw by a chuck or a screw squeezing the blade tight to hold it in place while you are cutting.
> 
> Many older and industrial saws used *pin ended blades. *. These are blades have a small pin going through the end of them and look kind of like a 't'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the blade rests in some sort of channel on the end of the arm of the scroll saw and the tension is then tightened to hold the blade in place. While this is an effective way to hold the blade in the saw, it is not always the most practical when doing decorative and delicate scroll saw work.
> 
> The pins at the end of the blades mean that in order to thread the blade through the wood, you would need a much wider entry hole in order to do so. This may be acceptable if you are doing larger pieces, such as fretwork brackets for shelves and trim work, but if you are doing smaller items such as ornaments and other delicate work, you will find that having to use pin ended blades will severely limit the scope of the work you can do. It is for that reason that I highly recommend using a saw that uses pinless blades. Most of the newer saws on the market today fall into this category.
> 
> I often am asked questions as to where to drill the entry holes in a project. While you can certainly drill them anywhere convenient in the waste area, there are usually some better choices that will minimize the time and effort in making a piece.
> 
> When I have a piece with lots of sharp corners, I like to start cutting fairly close a corner. For the same reasons that we started in a corner when doing an outside cut, I feel that it is also best to do so when making an inside cut. The place where we enter and exit our cuts sometimes makes a small bump, and I feel that by starting in an inconspicuous area near a corner, even if there is a small ridge where we enter and exit, it will be very difficult if not impossible to see.
> 
> For this lesson, I have prepared a practice pattern that has lots of sharp inside cuts. You can download the pattern at my Google Documents file here:
> 
> Lesson 7 Practice Sheet
> 
> This is part of a pattern for a self-framing plaque that I designed. It is a pattern that I sell on my site, but I enlarged it a bit so that it would be a little easier for you to practice on. For this lesson, we are only going to work on the frame of the project so I only included that part on the pattern. Next time we will be working on the inside cuts and I will have that part of the pattern for you to download. (You will need to come back for that!)
> 
> Begin by preparing the piece as I showed you in previous lessons, with blue painter's tape and then applying the pattern. (Or use your own favorite method) Cut around the perimeter of the piece so that it is a comfortable size to work with. Place a small drill bit in your drill press and drill out the holes in the waste are of the design. From the picture below you can see that I marked some suggested starting places you can drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course they don't have to be exactly where I indicated - any thing close will do.
> 
> Drill using the smallest bit that will fit your blade through it comfortably. By 'comfortably' I mean that you shouldn't have to struggle to push your blade through the hole, as this could result in bending the blade - especially if you are using a small blade. But you want to keep the entry hole as small as you can. When you are finished drilling the holes, be sure to sand the back of the plaque with some sand paper. Otherwise the bumps from the back of the drill holes will interfere with allowing your piece to sit flat on the scroll saw table.
> 
> After drilling and sanding, we are now ready to cut.
> 
> For my own piece here, I am using 1/2" (Maple) and a size 2-reverse tooth scroll saw blade. You can use anything similar and get the same results.
> 
> Begin by cutting toward the nearest sharp corner. Aim for the pointiest part of the corner. Remember to let up the pressure as you approach it so you don't overshoot the cut. This is a common mistake that beginners make. (you can go back and review lesson #4 HERE if you want to refresh yourself about not putting too much pressure on the blade and getting not over cutting.) When you reach the end of the point - STOP:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back up the saw blade slightly (perhaps a quarter of an inch or so) WITHOUT TURNING IT - simply pull the piece slightly back through the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut forward again toward the line, only this time go slightly to the LEFT of the line your just cut. Again you are going to stop as you get to your line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you are at the line, you should pivot your piece so that you can cut back to meet the tip of the point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, the little triangular piece should fall out (as indicated by the grey area in the illustration):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are then going to turn your piece so that you will be cutting in a clockwise direction and following the line to the next corner. When you get to the next corner, stop again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will then back your blade up just as you did before (approximately 1/4 of an inch or so) without turning the piece or the blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just as we did on the first corner, we are going to cut to the left of the corner and stop at the line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after the small triangle falls out, turn your piece so you can continue in a clockwise direction and continue on to the next corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue in this manner until you come around to where you started. Be sure to back off the pressure you are pushing on your saw when you are approaching the end. If you push too hard, you will have a tendency to over cut into the piece past your starting point.
> 
> For very sharp angles, there is sometimes an easier way to turn the corners - especially when you are using a very small blade. In the second set of pictures, I have a shape with a very acute angle and an obtuse angle (over 90 degrees) to each side of it. In this case, I drilled my entry hole near the obtuse angle, and began cutting from the hole to the corner of it.
> 
> When I reached the line, instead of backing up the blade and cutting a small triangle out like I did in the last example, I simply turned the piece and began following the line in a clockwise direction and continued cutting:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am able to do this because of the large angle. Depending on which size blade you are using, you should be able to turn most obtuse angles in this manner and still have a nice sharp corner. Remember when you are turning to pivot on the corner and slightly lean your piece to the back of the blade to insure that there is no forward moving while you pivot. Continue along the line until you reach the point of the acute angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you reach that point, you will once again back up your piece about 1/4" and then pivot your piece (toward the waste area)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you will back all the way into the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And from that point you will continue cutting in a clockwise direction:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this gives you a clear idea of how to cut corners. Of course, if you are cutting in a counter-clockwise direction, you will just cut the little triangle out from the opposite side and continue accordingly. Once you get the hang of the process, it will be fairly easy and come second nature to you.
> 
> You will find that as most of the time with scroll sawing, the process is a matter of judgement calls. You will learn by practicing which way of turning is best for the particular area you are at. The thing we are aiming for is to have nice, sharp defined corners without 'spin holes' which are rounded areas made from turning the blade. Crisp and clean angles will make your piece look professional and nice.
> 
> Your homework for this week is to finish cutting all the inside cuts of the frame piece provided. This will be really
> good practice for you and by the time you are finished, you should be feeling a bit more comfortable in doing the process. Next lesson we will learn how to do other types of inside cuts and later on we will learn to bevel cut the piece to make a self-framing plaque.
> 
> Below is the video that will demonstrate these three types of turns that I just explained. I think it will help clarify the steps that I showed you in the drawings above.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course, there are other ways that you can turn too. I am sure that others will have some good input as to other methods that work well for them too. As with most of scroll sawing, there are several correct ways to do things.
> 
> I would suggest you use a board approximately 1/2" thick and a #2 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. If you have something else available, I am sure that will work fine too. Try to use the smallest blade you can and still have control and not have to work too hard moving your piece through the saw. If you have to push hard, or if your blade is wandering too much, try going up a size. You will soon get a feel for what is right for the type of wood you have.
> 
> Feel free to ask questions if there is anything that I missed here. I will be finishing up editing the video and getting it posted here as soon as it is done, so be sure to check back later. But for now, this will get you started.
> 
> Thank you again for participating in the class. I hope you are all having fun!


I've been trying to figure out why my blades were breaking so fast. The piece they were breaking the most on was a bit warped. I didn't realize it at first, but I wonder if that would make blades break faster?
Thanks.


----------



## mark88

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Inside Corners and Angles*
> 
> So far we have looked at how to prepare our wood, choose a blade, cast on and off a piece and cut outside curves and corners. Now it is time we do some inside cutting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most people associate scroll sawing with cutting fretwork. At first many people don't understand that in order to cut fretwork pieces, you need to drill entry holes in the 'waste area' (or the part of the pattern that drops away when you finish your cut) and thread the blade through that drilled hole to cut out the inside piece. This is why it is so important to many scroll sawyers to have a scroll saw that uses *pinless *blades, or blades that have flat ends and attach to the scroll saw by a chuck or a screw squeezing the blade tight to hold it in place while you are cutting.
> 
> Many older and industrial saws used *pin ended blades. *. These are blades have a small pin going through the end of them and look kind of like a 't'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the blade rests in some sort of channel on the end of the arm of the scroll saw and the tension is then tightened to hold the blade in place. While this is an effective way to hold the blade in the saw, it is not always the most practical when doing decorative and delicate scroll saw work.
> 
> The pins at the end of the blades mean that in order to thread the blade through the wood, you would need a much wider entry hole in order to do so. This may be acceptable if you are doing larger pieces, such as fretwork brackets for shelves and trim work, but if you are doing smaller items such as ornaments and other delicate work, you will find that having to use pin ended blades will severely limit the scope of the work you can do. It is for that reason that I highly recommend using a saw that uses pinless blades. Most of the newer saws on the market today fall into this category.
> 
> I often am asked questions as to where to drill the entry holes in a project. While you can certainly drill them anywhere convenient in the waste area, there are usually some better choices that will minimize the time and effort in making a piece.
> 
> When I have a piece with lots of sharp corners, I like to start cutting fairly close a corner. For the same reasons that we started in a corner when doing an outside cut, I feel that it is also best to do so when making an inside cut. The place where we enter and exit our cuts sometimes makes a small bump, and I feel that by starting in an inconspicuous area near a corner, even if there is a small ridge where we enter and exit, it will be very difficult if not impossible to see.
> 
> For this lesson, I have prepared a practice pattern that has lots of sharp inside cuts. You can download the pattern at my Google Documents file here:
> 
> Lesson 7 Practice Sheet
> 
> This is part of a pattern for a self-framing plaque that I designed. It is a pattern that I sell on my site, but I enlarged it a bit so that it would be a little easier for you to practice on. For this lesson, we are only going to work on the frame of the project so I only included that part on the pattern. Next time we will be working on the inside cuts and I will have that part of the pattern for you to download. (You will need to come back for that!)
> 
> Begin by preparing the piece as I showed you in previous lessons, with blue painter's tape and then applying the pattern. (Or use your own favorite method) Cut around the perimeter of the piece so that it is a comfortable size to work with. Place a small drill bit in your drill press and drill out the holes in the waste are of the design. From the picture below you can see that I marked some suggested starting places you can drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course they don't have to be exactly where I indicated - any thing close will do.
> 
> Drill using the smallest bit that will fit your blade through it comfortably. By 'comfortably' I mean that you shouldn't have to struggle to push your blade through the hole, as this could result in bending the blade - especially if you are using a small blade. But you want to keep the entry hole as small as you can. When you are finished drilling the holes, be sure to sand the back of the plaque with some sand paper. Otherwise the bumps from the back of the drill holes will interfere with allowing your piece to sit flat on the scroll saw table.
> 
> After drilling and sanding, we are now ready to cut.
> 
> For my own piece here, I am using 1/2" (Maple) and a size 2-reverse tooth scroll saw blade. You can use anything similar and get the same results.
> 
> Begin by cutting toward the nearest sharp corner. Aim for the pointiest part of the corner. Remember to let up the pressure as you approach it so you don't overshoot the cut. This is a common mistake that beginners make. (you can go back and review lesson #4 HERE if you want to refresh yourself about not putting too much pressure on the blade and getting not over cutting.) When you reach the end of the point - STOP:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back up the saw blade slightly (perhaps a quarter of an inch or so) WITHOUT TURNING IT - simply pull the piece slightly back through the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut forward again toward the line, only this time go slightly to the LEFT of the line your just cut. Again you are going to stop as you get to your line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you are at the line, you should pivot your piece so that you can cut back to meet the tip of the point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, the little triangular piece should fall out (as indicated by the grey area in the illustration):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are then going to turn your piece so that you will be cutting in a clockwise direction and following the line to the next corner. When you get to the next corner, stop again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will then back your blade up just as you did before (approximately 1/4 of an inch or so) without turning the piece or the blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just as we did on the first corner, we are going to cut to the left of the corner and stop at the line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after the small triangle falls out, turn your piece so you can continue in a clockwise direction and continue on to the next corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue in this manner until you come around to where you started. Be sure to back off the pressure you are pushing on your saw when you are approaching the end. If you push too hard, you will have a tendency to over cut into the piece past your starting point.
> 
> For very sharp angles, there is sometimes an easier way to turn the corners - especially when you are using a very small blade. In the second set of pictures, I have a shape with a very acute angle and an obtuse angle (over 90 degrees) to each side of it. In this case, I drilled my entry hole near the obtuse angle, and began cutting from the hole to the corner of it.
> 
> When I reached the line, instead of backing up the blade and cutting a small triangle out like I did in the last example, I simply turned the piece and began following the line in a clockwise direction and continued cutting:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am able to do this because of the large angle. Depending on which size blade you are using, you should be able to turn most obtuse angles in this manner and still have a nice sharp corner. Remember when you are turning to pivot on the corner and slightly lean your piece to the back of the blade to insure that there is no forward moving while you pivot. Continue along the line until you reach the point of the acute angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you reach that point, you will once again back up your piece about 1/4" and then pivot your piece (toward the waste area)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you will back all the way into the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And from that point you will continue cutting in a clockwise direction:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this gives you a clear idea of how to cut corners. Of course, if you are cutting in a counter-clockwise direction, you will just cut the little triangle out from the opposite side and continue accordingly. Once you get the hang of the process, it will be fairly easy and come second nature to you.
> 
> You will find that as most of the time with scroll sawing, the process is a matter of judgement calls. You will learn by practicing which way of turning is best for the particular area you are at. The thing we are aiming for is to have nice, sharp defined corners without 'spin holes' which are rounded areas made from turning the blade. Crisp and clean angles will make your piece look professional and nice.
> 
> Your homework for this week is to finish cutting all the inside cuts of the frame piece provided. This will be really
> good practice for you and by the time you are finished, you should be feeling a bit more comfortable in doing the process. Next lesson we will learn how to do other types of inside cuts and later on we will learn to bevel cut the piece to make a self-framing plaque.
> 
> Below is the video that will demonstrate these three types of turns that I just explained. I think it will help clarify the steps that I showed you in the drawings above.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course, there are other ways that you can turn too. I am sure that others will have some good input as to other methods that work well for them too. As with most of scroll sawing, there are several correct ways to do things.
> 
> I would suggest you use a board approximately 1/2" thick and a #2 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. If you have something else available, I am sure that will work fine too. Try to use the smallest blade you can and still have control and not have to work too hard moving your piece through the saw. If you have to push hard, or if your blade is wandering too much, try going up a size. You will soon get a feel for what is right for the type of wood you have.
> 
> Feel free to ask questions if there is anything that I missed here. I will be finishing up editing the video and getting it posted here as soon as it is done, so be sure to check back later. But for now, this will get you started.
> 
> Thank you again for participating in the class. I hope you are all having fun!


damn sheila you have this sh!t nailed! points taken!


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Inside Corners and Angles*
> 
> So far we have looked at how to prepare our wood, choose a blade, cast on and off a piece and cut outside curves and corners. Now it is time we do some inside cutting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most people associate scroll sawing with cutting fretwork. At first many people don't understand that in order to cut fretwork pieces, you need to drill entry holes in the 'waste area' (or the part of the pattern that drops away when you finish your cut) and thread the blade through that drilled hole to cut out the inside piece. This is why it is so important to many scroll sawyers to have a scroll saw that uses *pinless *blades, or blades that have flat ends and attach to the scroll saw by a chuck or a screw squeezing the blade tight to hold it in place while you are cutting.
> 
> Many older and industrial saws used *pin ended blades. *. These are blades have a small pin going through the end of them and look kind of like a 't'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the blade rests in some sort of channel on the end of the arm of the scroll saw and the tension is then tightened to hold the blade in place. While this is an effective way to hold the blade in the saw, it is not always the most practical when doing decorative and delicate scroll saw work.
> 
> The pins at the end of the blades mean that in order to thread the blade through the wood, you would need a much wider entry hole in order to do so. This may be acceptable if you are doing larger pieces, such as fretwork brackets for shelves and trim work, but if you are doing smaller items such as ornaments and other delicate work, you will find that having to use pin ended blades will severely limit the scope of the work you can do. It is for that reason that I highly recommend using a saw that uses pinless blades. Most of the newer saws on the market today fall into this category.
> 
> I often am asked questions as to where to drill the entry holes in a project. While you can certainly drill them anywhere convenient in the waste area, there are usually some better choices that will minimize the time and effort in making a piece.
> 
> When I have a piece with lots of sharp corners, I like to start cutting fairly close a corner. For the same reasons that we started in a corner when doing an outside cut, I feel that it is also best to do so when making an inside cut. The place where we enter and exit our cuts sometimes makes a small bump, and I feel that by starting in an inconspicuous area near a corner, even if there is a small ridge where we enter and exit, it will be very difficult if not impossible to see.
> 
> For this lesson, I have prepared a practice pattern that has lots of sharp inside cuts. You can download the pattern at my Google Documents file here:
> 
> Lesson 7 Practice Sheet
> 
> This is part of a pattern for a self-framing plaque that I designed. It is a pattern that I sell on my site, but I enlarged it a bit so that it would be a little easier for you to practice on. For this lesson, we are only going to work on the frame of the project so I only included that part on the pattern. Next time we will be working on the inside cuts and I will have that part of the pattern for you to download. (You will need to come back for that!)
> 
> Begin by preparing the piece as I showed you in previous lessons, with blue painter's tape and then applying the pattern. (Or use your own favorite method) Cut around the perimeter of the piece so that it is a comfortable size to work with. Place a small drill bit in your drill press and drill out the holes in the waste are of the design. From the picture below you can see that I marked some suggested starting places you can drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course they don't have to be exactly where I indicated - any thing close will do.
> 
> Drill using the smallest bit that will fit your blade through it comfortably. By 'comfortably' I mean that you shouldn't have to struggle to push your blade through the hole, as this could result in bending the blade - especially if you are using a small blade. But you want to keep the entry hole as small as you can. When you are finished drilling the holes, be sure to sand the back of the plaque with some sand paper. Otherwise the bumps from the back of the drill holes will interfere with allowing your piece to sit flat on the scroll saw table.
> 
> After drilling and sanding, we are now ready to cut.
> 
> For my own piece here, I am using 1/2" (Maple) and a size 2-reverse tooth scroll saw blade. You can use anything similar and get the same results.
> 
> Begin by cutting toward the nearest sharp corner. Aim for the pointiest part of the corner. Remember to let up the pressure as you approach it so you don't overshoot the cut. This is a common mistake that beginners make. (you can go back and review lesson #4 HERE if you want to refresh yourself about not putting too much pressure on the blade and getting not over cutting.) When you reach the end of the point - STOP:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back up the saw blade slightly (perhaps a quarter of an inch or so) WITHOUT TURNING IT - simply pull the piece slightly back through the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut forward again toward the line, only this time go slightly to the LEFT of the line your just cut. Again you are going to stop as you get to your line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you are at the line, you should pivot your piece so that you can cut back to meet the tip of the point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, the little triangular piece should fall out (as indicated by the grey area in the illustration):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are then going to turn your piece so that you will be cutting in a clockwise direction and following the line to the next corner. When you get to the next corner, stop again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will then back your blade up just as you did before (approximately 1/4 of an inch or so) without turning the piece or the blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just as we did on the first corner, we are going to cut to the left of the corner and stop at the line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after the small triangle falls out, turn your piece so you can continue in a clockwise direction and continue on to the next corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue in this manner until you come around to where you started. Be sure to back off the pressure you are pushing on your saw when you are approaching the end. If you push too hard, you will have a tendency to over cut into the piece past your starting point.
> 
> For very sharp angles, there is sometimes an easier way to turn the corners - especially when you are using a very small blade. In the second set of pictures, I have a shape with a very acute angle and an obtuse angle (over 90 degrees) to each side of it. In this case, I drilled my entry hole near the obtuse angle, and began cutting from the hole to the corner of it.
> 
> When I reached the line, instead of backing up the blade and cutting a small triangle out like I did in the last example, I simply turned the piece and began following the line in a clockwise direction and continued cutting:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am able to do this because of the large angle. Depending on which size blade you are using, you should be able to turn most obtuse angles in this manner and still have a nice sharp corner. Remember when you are turning to pivot on the corner and slightly lean your piece to the back of the blade to insure that there is no forward moving while you pivot. Continue along the line until you reach the point of the acute angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you reach that point, you will once again back up your piece about 1/4" and then pivot your piece (toward the waste area)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you will back all the way into the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And from that point you will continue cutting in a clockwise direction:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this gives you a clear idea of how to cut corners. Of course, if you are cutting in a counter-clockwise direction, you will just cut the little triangle out from the opposite side and continue accordingly. Once you get the hang of the process, it will be fairly easy and come second nature to you.
> 
> You will find that as most of the time with scroll sawing, the process is a matter of judgement calls. You will learn by practicing which way of turning is best for the particular area you are at. The thing we are aiming for is to have nice, sharp defined corners without 'spin holes' which are rounded areas made from turning the blade. Crisp and clean angles will make your piece look professional and nice.
> 
> Your homework for this week is to finish cutting all the inside cuts of the frame piece provided. This will be really
> good practice for you and by the time you are finished, you should be feeling a bit more comfortable in doing the process. Next lesson we will learn how to do other types of inside cuts and later on we will learn to bevel cut the piece to make a self-framing plaque.
> 
> Below is the video that will demonstrate these three types of turns that I just explained. I think it will help clarify the steps that I showed you in the drawings above.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course, there are other ways that you can turn too. I am sure that others will have some good input as to other methods that work well for them too. As with most of scroll sawing, there are several correct ways to do things.
> 
> I would suggest you use a board approximately 1/2" thick and a #2 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. If you have something else available, I am sure that will work fine too. Try to use the smallest blade you can and still have control and not have to work too hard moving your piece through the saw. If you have to push hard, or if your blade is wandering too much, try going up a size. You will soon get a feel for what is right for the type of wood you have.
> 
> Feel free to ask questions if there is anything that I missed here. I will be finishing up editing the video and getting it posted here as soon as it is done, so be sure to check back later. But for now, this will get you started.
> 
> Thank you again for participating in the class. I hope you are all having fun!


Thanks again to you all. Vicki - I do think that the warped wood would increase the chance for breaking blades. Whenever I have a warped piece, if at all possible, I place the wood with the warp down, meaning the bow is in the middle and makes the middle higher. That way the piece doesn't seem to rock as much, which could bend the blades while you are cutting and increase the chance that you break them. I hope this makes sense the way I explained it. Just give it a try when you get the chance next time and see if it helps.

Sheila


----------



## Blondewood

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Inside Corners and Angles*
> 
> So far we have looked at how to prepare our wood, choose a blade, cast on and off a piece and cut outside curves and corners. Now it is time we do some inside cutting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most people associate scroll sawing with cutting fretwork. At first many people don't understand that in order to cut fretwork pieces, you need to drill entry holes in the 'waste area' (or the part of the pattern that drops away when you finish your cut) and thread the blade through that drilled hole to cut out the inside piece. This is why it is so important to many scroll sawyers to have a scroll saw that uses *pinless *blades, or blades that have flat ends and attach to the scroll saw by a chuck or a screw squeezing the blade tight to hold it in place while you are cutting.
> 
> Many older and industrial saws used *pin ended blades. *. These are blades have a small pin going through the end of them and look kind of like a 't'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the blade rests in some sort of channel on the end of the arm of the scroll saw and the tension is then tightened to hold the blade in place. While this is an effective way to hold the blade in the saw, it is not always the most practical when doing decorative and delicate scroll saw work.
> 
> The pins at the end of the blades mean that in order to thread the blade through the wood, you would need a much wider entry hole in order to do so. This may be acceptable if you are doing larger pieces, such as fretwork brackets for shelves and trim work, but if you are doing smaller items such as ornaments and other delicate work, you will find that having to use pin ended blades will severely limit the scope of the work you can do. It is for that reason that I highly recommend using a saw that uses pinless blades. Most of the newer saws on the market today fall into this category.
> 
> I often am asked questions as to where to drill the entry holes in a project. While you can certainly drill them anywhere convenient in the waste area, there are usually some better choices that will minimize the time and effort in making a piece.
> 
> When I have a piece with lots of sharp corners, I like to start cutting fairly close a corner. For the same reasons that we started in a corner when doing an outside cut, I feel that it is also best to do so when making an inside cut. The place where we enter and exit our cuts sometimes makes a small bump, and I feel that by starting in an inconspicuous area near a corner, even if there is a small ridge where we enter and exit, it will be very difficult if not impossible to see.
> 
> For this lesson, I have prepared a practice pattern that has lots of sharp inside cuts. You can download the pattern at my Google Documents file here:
> 
> Lesson 7 Practice Sheet
> 
> This is part of a pattern for a self-framing plaque that I designed. It is a pattern that I sell on my site, but I enlarged it a bit so that it would be a little easier for you to practice on. For this lesson, we are only going to work on the frame of the project so I only included that part on the pattern. Next time we will be working on the inside cuts and I will have that part of the pattern for you to download. (You will need to come back for that!)
> 
> Begin by preparing the piece as I showed you in previous lessons, with blue painter's tape and then applying the pattern. (Or use your own favorite method) Cut around the perimeter of the piece so that it is a comfortable size to work with. Place a small drill bit in your drill press and drill out the holes in the waste are of the design. From the picture below you can see that I marked some suggested starting places you can drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course they don't have to be exactly where I indicated - any thing close will do.
> 
> Drill using the smallest bit that will fit your blade through it comfortably. By 'comfortably' I mean that you shouldn't have to struggle to push your blade through the hole, as this could result in bending the blade - especially if you are using a small blade. But you want to keep the entry hole as small as you can. When you are finished drilling the holes, be sure to sand the back of the plaque with some sand paper. Otherwise the bumps from the back of the drill holes will interfere with allowing your piece to sit flat on the scroll saw table.
> 
> After drilling and sanding, we are now ready to cut.
> 
> For my own piece here, I am using 1/2" (Maple) and a size 2-reverse tooth scroll saw blade. You can use anything similar and get the same results.
> 
> Begin by cutting toward the nearest sharp corner. Aim for the pointiest part of the corner. Remember to let up the pressure as you approach it so you don't overshoot the cut. This is a common mistake that beginners make. (you can go back and review lesson #4 HERE if you want to refresh yourself about not putting too much pressure on the blade and getting not over cutting.) When you reach the end of the point - STOP:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back up the saw blade slightly (perhaps a quarter of an inch or so) WITHOUT TURNING IT - simply pull the piece slightly back through the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut forward again toward the line, only this time go slightly to the LEFT of the line your just cut. Again you are going to stop as you get to your line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you are at the line, you should pivot your piece so that you can cut back to meet the tip of the point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, the little triangular piece should fall out (as indicated by the grey area in the illustration):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are then going to turn your piece so that you will be cutting in a clockwise direction and following the line to the next corner. When you get to the next corner, stop again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will then back your blade up just as you did before (approximately 1/4 of an inch or so) without turning the piece or the blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just as we did on the first corner, we are going to cut to the left of the corner and stop at the line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after the small triangle falls out, turn your piece so you can continue in a clockwise direction and continue on to the next corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue in this manner until you come around to where you started. Be sure to back off the pressure you are pushing on your saw when you are approaching the end. If you push too hard, you will have a tendency to over cut into the piece past your starting point.
> 
> For very sharp angles, there is sometimes an easier way to turn the corners - especially when you are using a very small blade. In the second set of pictures, I have a shape with a very acute angle and an obtuse angle (over 90 degrees) to each side of it. In this case, I drilled my entry hole near the obtuse angle, and began cutting from the hole to the corner of it.
> 
> When I reached the line, instead of backing up the blade and cutting a small triangle out like I did in the last example, I simply turned the piece and began following the line in a clockwise direction and continued cutting:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am able to do this because of the large angle. Depending on which size blade you are using, you should be able to turn most obtuse angles in this manner and still have a nice sharp corner. Remember when you are turning to pivot on the corner and slightly lean your piece to the back of the blade to insure that there is no forward moving while you pivot. Continue along the line until you reach the point of the acute angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you reach that point, you will once again back up your piece about 1/4" and then pivot your piece (toward the waste area)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you will back all the way into the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And from that point you will continue cutting in a clockwise direction:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this gives you a clear idea of how to cut corners. Of course, if you are cutting in a counter-clockwise direction, you will just cut the little triangle out from the opposite side and continue accordingly. Once you get the hang of the process, it will be fairly easy and come second nature to you.
> 
> You will find that as most of the time with scroll sawing, the process is a matter of judgement calls. You will learn by practicing which way of turning is best for the particular area you are at. The thing we are aiming for is to have nice, sharp defined corners without 'spin holes' which are rounded areas made from turning the blade. Crisp and clean angles will make your piece look professional and nice.
> 
> Your homework for this week is to finish cutting all the inside cuts of the frame piece provided. This will be really
> good practice for you and by the time you are finished, you should be feeling a bit more comfortable in doing the process. Next lesson we will learn how to do other types of inside cuts and later on we will learn to bevel cut the piece to make a self-framing plaque.
> 
> Below is the video that will demonstrate these three types of turns that I just explained. I think it will help clarify the steps that I showed you in the drawings above.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course, there are other ways that you can turn too. I am sure that others will have some good input as to other methods that work well for them too. As with most of scroll sawing, there are several correct ways to do things.
> 
> I would suggest you use a board approximately 1/2" thick and a #2 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. If you have something else available, I am sure that will work fine too. Try to use the smallest blade you can and still have control and not have to work too hard moving your piece through the saw. If you have to push hard, or if your blade is wandering too much, try going up a size. You will soon get a feel for what is right for the type of wood you have.
> 
> Feel free to ask questions if there is anything that I missed here. I will be finishing up editing the video and getting it posted here as soon as it is done, so be sure to check back later. But for now, this will get you started.
> 
> Thank you again for participating in the class. I hope you are all having fun!


The project I was working on was the little rocking reindeers from one of your patterns. It finally hit me that more #2 and #3 blades broke on the piece of 1/4" poplar than on ply or pine. I did find that a bit less tension than I used on my #5's helped cut down breakage and slowing my rate and not pushing so hard. I also wonder if these blades dull quicker than #5's. I've been trying to pay more attention to the #2's and notice that prior to breaking they slow down a bit and make a little chatter noise. i.e. the saw sounds a little different then when the blade is new. Yesterday I was working on a piece of 3/4" pine and cutting tiny areas with a #2 and the blades lasted 2 or 3 times longer. Also, as a blade starts to dull is it better to speed up the saw or slow it down to get the last bit of use?

What you said about the warp does make sense.

Thank you for continuing to be supportive. It is a great help to have someone explain these little problems.

Vicki

PS I hope you saw my posts with my crosses and tinier cuts. They were done with your help. Thanks.


----------



## Pdub

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Inside Corners and Angles*
> 
> So far we have looked at how to prepare our wood, choose a blade, cast on and off a piece and cut outside curves and corners. Now it is time we do some inside cutting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most people associate scroll sawing with cutting fretwork. At first many people don't understand that in order to cut fretwork pieces, you need to drill entry holes in the 'waste area' (or the part of the pattern that drops away when you finish your cut) and thread the blade through that drilled hole to cut out the inside piece. This is why it is so important to many scroll sawyers to have a scroll saw that uses *pinless *blades, or blades that have flat ends and attach to the scroll saw by a chuck or a screw squeezing the blade tight to hold it in place while you are cutting.
> 
> Many older and industrial saws used *pin ended blades. *. These are blades have a small pin going through the end of them and look kind of like a 't'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the blade rests in some sort of channel on the end of the arm of the scroll saw and the tension is then tightened to hold the blade in place. While this is an effective way to hold the blade in the saw, it is not always the most practical when doing decorative and delicate scroll saw work.
> 
> The pins at the end of the blades mean that in order to thread the blade through the wood, you would need a much wider entry hole in order to do so. This may be acceptable if you are doing larger pieces, such as fretwork brackets for shelves and trim work, but if you are doing smaller items such as ornaments and other delicate work, you will find that having to use pin ended blades will severely limit the scope of the work you can do. It is for that reason that I highly recommend using a saw that uses pinless blades. Most of the newer saws on the market today fall into this category.
> 
> I often am asked questions as to where to drill the entry holes in a project. While you can certainly drill them anywhere convenient in the waste area, there are usually some better choices that will minimize the time and effort in making a piece.
> 
> When I have a piece with lots of sharp corners, I like to start cutting fairly close a corner. For the same reasons that we started in a corner when doing an outside cut, I feel that it is also best to do so when making an inside cut. The place where we enter and exit our cuts sometimes makes a small bump, and I feel that by starting in an inconspicuous area near a corner, even if there is a small ridge where we enter and exit, it will be very difficult if not impossible to see.
> 
> For this lesson, I have prepared a practice pattern that has lots of sharp inside cuts. You can download the pattern at my Google Documents file here:
> 
> Lesson 7 Practice Sheet
> 
> This is part of a pattern for a self-framing plaque that I designed. It is a pattern that I sell on my site, but I enlarged it a bit so that it would be a little easier for you to practice on. For this lesson, we are only going to work on the frame of the project so I only included that part on the pattern. Next time we will be working on the inside cuts and I will have that part of the pattern for you to download. (You will need to come back for that!)
> 
> Begin by preparing the piece as I showed you in previous lessons, with blue painter's tape and then applying the pattern. (Or use your own favorite method) Cut around the perimeter of the piece so that it is a comfortable size to work with. Place a small drill bit in your drill press and drill out the holes in the waste are of the design. From the picture below you can see that I marked some suggested starting places you can drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course they don't have to be exactly where I indicated - any thing close will do.
> 
> Drill using the smallest bit that will fit your blade through it comfortably. By 'comfortably' I mean that you shouldn't have to struggle to push your blade through the hole, as this could result in bending the blade - especially if you are using a small blade. But you want to keep the entry hole as small as you can. When you are finished drilling the holes, be sure to sand the back of the plaque with some sand paper. Otherwise the bumps from the back of the drill holes will interfere with allowing your piece to sit flat on the scroll saw table.
> 
> After drilling and sanding, we are now ready to cut.
> 
> For my own piece here, I am using 1/2" (Maple) and a size 2-reverse tooth scroll saw blade. You can use anything similar and get the same results.
> 
> Begin by cutting toward the nearest sharp corner. Aim for the pointiest part of the corner. Remember to let up the pressure as you approach it so you don't overshoot the cut. This is a common mistake that beginners make. (you can go back and review lesson #4 HERE if you want to refresh yourself about not putting too much pressure on the blade and getting not over cutting.) When you reach the end of the point - STOP:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back up the saw blade slightly (perhaps a quarter of an inch or so) WITHOUT TURNING IT - simply pull the piece slightly back through the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut forward again toward the line, only this time go slightly to the LEFT of the line your just cut. Again you are going to stop as you get to your line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you are at the line, you should pivot your piece so that you can cut back to meet the tip of the point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, the little triangular piece should fall out (as indicated by the grey area in the illustration):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are then going to turn your piece so that you will be cutting in a clockwise direction and following the line to the next corner. When you get to the next corner, stop again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will then back your blade up just as you did before (approximately 1/4 of an inch or so) without turning the piece or the blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just as we did on the first corner, we are going to cut to the left of the corner and stop at the line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after the small triangle falls out, turn your piece so you can continue in a clockwise direction and continue on to the next corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue in this manner until you come around to where you started. Be sure to back off the pressure you are pushing on your saw when you are approaching the end. If you push too hard, you will have a tendency to over cut into the piece past your starting point.
> 
> For very sharp angles, there is sometimes an easier way to turn the corners - especially when you are using a very small blade. In the second set of pictures, I have a shape with a very acute angle and an obtuse angle (over 90 degrees) to each side of it. In this case, I drilled my entry hole near the obtuse angle, and began cutting from the hole to the corner of it.
> 
> When I reached the line, instead of backing up the blade and cutting a small triangle out like I did in the last example, I simply turned the piece and began following the line in a clockwise direction and continued cutting:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am able to do this because of the large angle. Depending on which size blade you are using, you should be able to turn most obtuse angles in this manner and still have a nice sharp corner. Remember when you are turning to pivot on the corner and slightly lean your piece to the back of the blade to insure that there is no forward moving while you pivot. Continue along the line until you reach the point of the acute angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you reach that point, you will once again back up your piece about 1/4" and then pivot your piece (toward the waste area)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you will back all the way into the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And from that point you will continue cutting in a clockwise direction:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this gives you a clear idea of how to cut corners. Of course, if you are cutting in a counter-clockwise direction, you will just cut the little triangle out from the opposite side and continue accordingly. Once you get the hang of the process, it will be fairly easy and come second nature to you.
> 
> You will find that as most of the time with scroll sawing, the process is a matter of judgement calls. You will learn by practicing which way of turning is best for the particular area you are at. The thing we are aiming for is to have nice, sharp defined corners without 'spin holes' which are rounded areas made from turning the blade. Crisp and clean angles will make your piece look professional and nice.
> 
> Your homework for this week is to finish cutting all the inside cuts of the frame piece provided. This will be really
> good practice for you and by the time you are finished, you should be feeling a bit more comfortable in doing the process. Next lesson we will learn how to do other types of inside cuts and later on we will learn to bevel cut the piece to make a self-framing plaque.
> 
> Below is the video that will demonstrate these three types of turns that I just explained. I think it will help clarify the steps that I showed you in the drawings above.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course, there are other ways that you can turn too. I am sure that others will have some good input as to other methods that work well for them too. As with most of scroll sawing, there are several correct ways to do things.
> 
> I would suggest you use a board approximately 1/2" thick and a #2 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. If you have something else available, I am sure that will work fine too. Try to use the smallest blade you can and still have control and not have to work too hard moving your piece through the saw. If you have to push hard, or if your blade is wandering too much, try going up a size. You will soon get a feel for what is right for the type of wood you have.
> 
> Feel free to ask questions if there is anything that I missed here. I will be finishing up editing the video and getting it posted here as soon as it is done, so be sure to check back later. But for now, this will get you started.
> 
> Thank you again for participating in the class. I hope you are all having fun!


*Vicki*- I think you are right about "not pushing so hard". I know as my blades get dull I start pushing harder. I have removed blades and noticed that they are slightly bent from my pushing. As for speed when blades are dulling, I haven't noticed that one is better than the other. But, I know that as they dull they seem to burn the wood more, so faster may not be the answer. *Disclaimer* I'm not an expert, but I have broken many blades over the years. LOL 
P.S. I've never had luck with those #2 blades. Probably because I always push too hard!


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Inside Corners and Angles*
> 
> So far we have looked at how to prepare our wood, choose a blade, cast on and off a piece and cut outside curves and corners. Now it is time we do some inside cutting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most people associate scroll sawing with cutting fretwork. At first many people don't understand that in order to cut fretwork pieces, you need to drill entry holes in the 'waste area' (or the part of the pattern that drops away when you finish your cut) and thread the blade through that drilled hole to cut out the inside piece. This is why it is so important to many scroll sawyers to have a scroll saw that uses *pinless *blades, or blades that have flat ends and attach to the scroll saw by a chuck or a screw squeezing the blade tight to hold it in place while you are cutting.
> 
> Many older and industrial saws used *pin ended blades. *. These are blades have a small pin going through the end of them and look kind of like a 't'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the blade rests in some sort of channel on the end of the arm of the scroll saw and the tension is then tightened to hold the blade in place. While this is an effective way to hold the blade in the saw, it is not always the most practical when doing decorative and delicate scroll saw work.
> 
> The pins at the end of the blades mean that in order to thread the blade through the wood, you would need a much wider entry hole in order to do so. This may be acceptable if you are doing larger pieces, such as fretwork brackets for shelves and trim work, but if you are doing smaller items such as ornaments and other delicate work, you will find that having to use pin ended blades will severely limit the scope of the work you can do. It is for that reason that I highly recommend using a saw that uses pinless blades. Most of the newer saws on the market today fall into this category.
> 
> I often am asked questions as to where to drill the entry holes in a project. While you can certainly drill them anywhere convenient in the waste area, there are usually some better choices that will minimize the time and effort in making a piece.
> 
> When I have a piece with lots of sharp corners, I like to start cutting fairly close a corner. For the same reasons that we started in a corner when doing an outside cut, I feel that it is also best to do so when making an inside cut. The place where we enter and exit our cuts sometimes makes a small bump, and I feel that by starting in an inconspicuous area near a corner, even if there is a small ridge where we enter and exit, it will be very difficult if not impossible to see.
> 
> For this lesson, I have prepared a practice pattern that has lots of sharp inside cuts. You can download the pattern at my Google Documents file here:
> 
> Lesson 7 Practice Sheet
> 
> This is part of a pattern for a self-framing plaque that I designed. It is a pattern that I sell on my site, but I enlarged it a bit so that it would be a little easier for you to practice on. For this lesson, we are only going to work on the frame of the project so I only included that part on the pattern. Next time we will be working on the inside cuts and I will have that part of the pattern for you to download. (You will need to come back for that!)
> 
> Begin by preparing the piece as I showed you in previous lessons, with blue painter's tape and then applying the pattern. (Or use your own favorite method) Cut around the perimeter of the piece so that it is a comfortable size to work with. Place a small drill bit in your drill press and drill out the holes in the waste are of the design. From the picture below you can see that I marked some suggested starting places you can drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course they don't have to be exactly where I indicated - any thing close will do.
> 
> Drill using the smallest bit that will fit your blade through it comfortably. By 'comfortably' I mean that you shouldn't have to struggle to push your blade through the hole, as this could result in bending the blade - especially if you are using a small blade. But you want to keep the entry hole as small as you can. When you are finished drilling the holes, be sure to sand the back of the plaque with some sand paper. Otherwise the bumps from the back of the drill holes will interfere with allowing your piece to sit flat on the scroll saw table.
> 
> After drilling and sanding, we are now ready to cut.
> 
> For my own piece here, I am using 1/2" (Maple) and a size 2-reverse tooth scroll saw blade. You can use anything similar and get the same results.
> 
> Begin by cutting toward the nearest sharp corner. Aim for the pointiest part of the corner. Remember to let up the pressure as you approach it so you don't overshoot the cut. This is a common mistake that beginners make. (you can go back and review lesson #4 HERE if you want to refresh yourself about not putting too much pressure on the blade and getting not over cutting.) When you reach the end of the point - STOP:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back up the saw blade slightly (perhaps a quarter of an inch or so) WITHOUT TURNING IT - simply pull the piece slightly back through the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut forward again toward the line, only this time go slightly to the LEFT of the line your just cut. Again you are going to stop as you get to your line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you are at the line, you should pivot your piece so that you can cut back to meet the tip of the point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, the little triangular piece should fall out (as indicated by the grey area in the illustration):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are then going to turn your piece so that you will be cutting in a clockwise direction and following the line to the next corner. When you get to the next corner, stop again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will then back your blade up just as you did before (approximately 1/4 of an inch or so) without turning the piece or the blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just as we did on the first corner, we are going to cut to the left of the corner and stop at the line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after the small triangle falls out, turn your piece so you can continue in a clockwise direction and continue on to the next corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue in this manner until you come around to where you started. Be sure to back off the pressure you are pushing on your saw when you are approaching the end. If you push too hard, you will have a tendency to over cut into the piece past your starting point.
> 
> For very sharp angles, there is sometimes an easier way to turn the corners - especially when you are using a very small blade. In the second set of pictures, I have a shape with a very acute angle and an obtuse angle (over 90 degrees) to each side of it. In this case, I drilled my entry hole near the obtuse angle, and began cutting from the hole to the corner of it.
> 
> When I reached the line, instead of backing up the blade and cutting a small triangle out like I did in the last example, I simply turned the piece and began following the line in a clockwise direction and continued cutting:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am able to do this because of the large angle. Depending on which size blade you are using, you should be able to turn most obtuse angles in this manner and still have a nice sharp corner. Remember when you are turning to pivot on the corner and slightly lean your piece to the back of the blade to insure that there is no forward moving while you pivot. Continue along the line until you reach the point of the acute angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you reach that point, you will once again back up your piece about 1/4" and then pivot your piece (toward the waste area)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you will back all the way into the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And from that point you will continue cutting in a clockwise direction:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this gives you a clear idea of how to cut corners. Of course, if you are cutting in a counter-clockwise direction, you will just cut the little triangle out from the opposite side and continue accordingly. Once you get the hang of the process, it will be fairly easy and come second nature to you.
> 
> You will find that as most of the time with scroll sawing, the process is a matter of judgement calls. You will learn by practicing which way of turning is best for the particular area you are at. The thing we are aiming for is to have nice, sharp defined corners without 'spin holes' which are rounded areas made from turning the blade. Crisp and clean angles will make your piece look professional and nice.
> 
> Your homework for this week is to finish cutting all the inside cuts of the frame piece provided. This will be really
> good practice for you and by the time you are finished, you should be feeling a bit more comfortable in doing the process. Next lesson we will learn how to do other types of inside cuts and later on we will learn to bevel cut the piece to make a self-framing plaque.
> 
> Below is the video that will demonstrate these three types of turns that I just explained. I think it will help clarify the steps that I showed you in the drawings above.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course, there are other ways that you can turn too. I am sure that others will have some good input as to other methods that work well for them too. As with most of scroll sawing, there are several correct ways to do things.
> 
> I would suggest you use a board approximately 1/2" thick and a #2 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. If you have something else available, I am sure that will work fine too. Try to use the smallest blade you can and still have control and not have to work too hard moving your piece through the saw. If you have to push hard, or if your blade is wandering too much, try going up a size. You will soon get a feel for what is right for the type of wood you have.
> 
> Feel free to ask questions if there is anything that I missed here. I will be finishing up editing the video and getting it posted here as soon as it is done, so be sure to check back later. But for now, this will get you started.
> 
> Thank you again for participating in the class. I hope you are all having fun!


Thanks for the input Paul. You are probably right - on the smaller blades like the #2's you need to be a bit more patient and allow them to work and cut the wood. They do get the job done but it takes a bit more patience. If you are doing something that is not as detailed and you really want to move through quickly, you probably are better off with the larger blades.  It is just important to find out what works best for you.

Sheila


----------



## Blondewood

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Inside Corners and Angles*
> 
> So far we have looked at how to prepare our wood, choose a blade, cast on and off a piece and cut outside curves and corners. Now it is time we do some inside cutting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most people associate scroll sawing with cutting fretwork. At first many people don't understand that in order to cut fretwork pieces, you need to drill entry holes in the 'waste area' (or the part of the pattern that drops away when you finish your cut) and thread the blade through that drilled hole to cut out the inside piece. This is why it is so important to many scroll sawyers to have a scroll saw that uses *pinless *blades, or blades that have flat ends and attach to the scroll saw by a chuck or a screw squeezing the blade tight to hold it in place while you are cutting.
> 
> Many older and industrial saws used *pin ended blades. *. These are blades have a small pin going through the end of them and look kind of like a 't'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the blade rests in some sort of channel on the end of the arm of the scroll saw and the tension is then tightened to hold the blade in place. While this is an effective way to hold the blade in the saw, it is not always the most practical when doing decorative and delicate scroll saw work.
> 
> The pins at the end of the blades mean that in order to thread the blade through the wood, you would need a much wider entry hole in order to do so. This may be acceptable if you are doing larger pieces, such as fretwork brackets for shelves and trim work, but if you are doing smaller items such as ornaments and other delicate work, you will find that having to use pin ended blades will severely limit the scope of the work you can do. It is for that reason that I highly recommend using a saw that uses pinless blades. Most of the newer saws on the market today fall into this category.
> 
> I often am asked questions as to where to drill the entry holes in a project. While you can certainly drill them anywhere convenient in the waste area, there are usually some better choices that will minimize the time and effort in making a piece.
> 
> When I have a piece with lots of sharp corners, I like to start cutting fairly close a corner. For the same reasons that we started in a corner when doing an outside cut, I feel that it is also best to do so when making an inside cut. The place where we enter and exit our cuts sometimes makes a small bump, and I feel that by starting in an inconspicuous area near a corner, even if there is a small ridge where we enter and exit, it will be very difficult if not impossible to see.
> 
> For this lesson, I have prepared a practice pattern that has lots of sharp inside cuts. You can download the pattern at my Google Documents file here:
> 
> Lesson 7 Practice Sheet
> 
> This is part of a pattern for a self-framing plaque that I designed. It is a pattern that I sell on my site, but I enlarged it a bit so that it would be a little easier for you to practice on. For this lesson, we are only going to work on the frame of the project so I only included that part on the pattern. Next time we will be working on the inside cuts and I will have that part of the pattern for you to download. (You will need to come back for that!)
> 
> Begin by preparing the piece as I showed you in previous lessons, with blue painter's tape and then applying the pattern. (Or use your own favorite method) Cut around the perimeter of the piece so that it is a comfortable size to work with. Place a small drill bit in your drill press and drill out the holes in the waste are of the design. From the picture below you can see that I marked some suggested starting places you can drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course they don't have to be exactly where I indicated - any thing close will do.
> 
> Drill using the smallest bit that will fit your blade through it comfortably. By 'comfortably' I mean that you shouldn't have to struggle to push your blade through the hole, as this could result in bending the blade - especially if you are using a small blade. But you want to keep the entry hole as small as you can. When you are finished drilling the holes, be sure to sand the back of the plaque with some sand paper. Otherwise the bumps from the back of the drill holes will interfere with allowing your piece to sit flat on the scroll saw table.
> 
> After drilling and sanding, we are now ready to cut.
> 
> For my own piece here, I am using 1/2" (Maple) and a size 2-reverse tooth scroll saw blade. You can use anything similar and get the same results.
> 
> Begin by cutting toward the nearest sharp corner. Aim for the pointiest part of the corner. Remember to let up the pressure as you approach it so you don't overshoot the cut. This is a common mistake that beginners make. (you can go back and review lesson #4 HERE if you want to refresh yourself about not putting too much pressure on the blade and getting not over cutting.) When you reach the end of the point - STOP:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back up the saw blade slightly (perhaps a quarter of an inch or so) WITHOUT TURNING IT - simply pull the piece slightly back through the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut forward again toward the line, only this time go slightly to the LEFT of the line your just cut. Again you are going to stop as you get to your line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you are at the line, you should pivot your piece so that you can cut back to meet the tip of the point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, the little triangular piece should fall out (as indicated by the grey area in the illustration):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are then going to turn your piece so that you will be cutting in a clockwise direction and following the line to the next corner. When you get to the next corner, stop again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will then back your blade up just as you did before (approximately 1/4 of an inch or so) without turning the piece or the blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just as we did on the first corner, we are going to cut to the left of the corner and stop at the line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after the small triangle falls out, turn your piece so you can continue in a clockwise direction and continue on to the next corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue in this manner until you come around to where you started. Be sure to back off the pressure you are pushing on your saw when you are approaching the end. If you push too hard, you will have a tendency to over cut into the piece past your starting point.
> 
> For very sharp angles, there is sometimes an easier way to turn the corners - especially when you are using a very small blade. In the second set of pictures, I have a shape with a very acute angle and an obtuse angle (over 90 degrees) to each side of it. In this case, I drilled my entry hole near the obtuse angle, and began cutting from the hole to the corner of it.
> 
> When I reached the line, instead of backing up the blade and cutting a small triangle out like I did in the last example, I simply turned the piece and began following the line in a clockwise direction and continued cutting:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am able to do this because of the large angle. Depending on which size blade you are using, you should be able to turn most obtuse angles in this manner and still have a nice sharp corner. Remember when you are turning to pivot on the corner and slightly lean your piece to the back of the blade to insure that there is no forward moving while you pivot. Continue along the line until you reach the point of the acute angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you reach that point, you will once again back up your piece about 1/4" and then pivot your piece (toward the waste area)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you will back all the way into the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And from that point you will continue cutting in a clockwise direction:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this gives you a clear idea of how to cut corners. Of course, if you are cutting in a counter-clockwise direction, you will just cut the little triangle out from the opposite side and continue accordingly. Once you get the hang of the process, it will be fairly easy and come second nature to you.
> 
> You will find that as most of the time with scroll sawing, the process is a matter of judgement calls. You will learn by practicing which way of turning is best for the particular area you are at. The thing we are aiming for is to have nice, sharp defined corners without 'spin holes' which are rounded areas made from turning the blade. Crisp and clean angles will make your piece look professional and nice.
> 
> Your homework for this week is to finish cutting all the inside cuts of the frame piece provided. This will be really
> good practice for you and by the time you are finished, you should be feeling a bit more comfortable in doing the process. Next lesson we will learn how to do other types of inside cuts and later on we will learn to bevel cut the piece to make a self-framing plaque.
> 
> Below is the video that will demonstrate these three types of turns that I just explained. I think it will help clarify the steps that I showed you in the drawings above.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course, there are other ways that you can turn too. I am sure that others will have some good input as to other methods that work well for them too. As with most of scroll sawing, there are several correct ways to do things.
> 
> I would suggest you use a board approximately 1/2" thick and a #2 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. If you have something else available, I am sure that will work fine too. Try to use the smallest blade you can and still have control and not have to work too hard moving your piece through the saw. If you have to push hard, or if your blade is wandering too much, try going up a size. You will soon get a feel for what is right for the type of wood you have.
> 
> Feel free to ask questions if there is anything that I missed here. I will be finishing up editing the video and getting it posted here as soon as it is done, so be sure to check back later. But for now, this will get you started.
> 
> Thank you again for participating in the class. I hope you are all having fun!


Thanks for the validation, Paul.


----------



## JoeLyddon

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Inside Corners and Angles*
> 
> So far we have looked at how to prepare our wood, choose a blade, cast on and off a piece and cut outside curves and corners. Now it is time we do some inside cutting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most people associate scroll sawing with cutting fretwork. At first many people don't understand that in order to cut fretwork pieces, you need to drill entry holes in the 'waste area' (or the part of the pattern that drops away when you finish your cut) and thread the blade through that drilled hole to cut out the inside piece. This is why it is so important to many scroll sawyers to have a scroll saw that uses *pinless *blades, or blades that have flat ends and attach to the scroll saw by a chuck or a screw squeezing the blade tight to hold it in place while you are cutting.
> 
> Many older and industrial saws used *pin ended blades. *. These are blades have a small pin going through the end of them and look kind of like a 't'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the blade rests in some sort of channel on the end of the arm of the scroll saw and the tension is then tightened to hold the blade in place. While this is an effective way to hold the blade in the saw, it is not always the most practical when doing decorative and delicate scroll saw work.
> 
> The pins at the end of the blades mean that in order to thread the blade through the wood, you would need a much wider entry hole in order to do so. This may be acceptable if you are doing larger pieces, such as fretwork brackets for shelves and trim work, but if you are doing smaller items such as ornaments and other delicate work, you will find that having to use pin ended blades will severely limit the scope of the work you can do. It is for that reason that I highly recommend using a saw that uses pinless blades. Most of the newer saws on the market today fall into this category.
> 
> I often am asked questions as to where to drill the entry holes in a project. While you can certainly drill them anywhere convenient in the waste area, there are usually some better choices that will minimize the time and effort in making a piece.
> 
> When I have a piece with lots of sharp corners, I like to start cutting fairly close a corner. For the same reasons that we started in a corner when doing an outside cut, I feel that it is also best to do so when making an inside cut. The place where we enter and exit our cuts sometimes makes a small bump, and I feel that by starting in an inconspicuous area near a corner, even if there is a small ridge where we enter and exit, it will be very difficult if not impossible to see.
> 
> For this lesson, I have prepared a practice pattern that has lots of sharp inside cuts. You can download the pattern at my Google Documents file here:
> 
> Lesson 7 Practice Sheet
> 
> This is part of a pattern for a self-framing plaque that I designed. It is a pattern that I sell on my site, but I enlarged it a bit so that it would be a little easier for you to practice on. For this lesson, we are only going to work on the frame of the project so I only included that part on the pattern. Next time we will be working on the inside cuts and I will have that part of the pattern for you to download. (You will need to come back for that!)
> 
> Begin by preparing the piece as I showed you in previous lessons, with blue painter's tape and then applying the pattern. (Or use your own favorite method) Cut around the perimeter of the piece so that it is a comfortable size to work with.  Place a small drill bit in your drill press and drill out the holes in the waste are of the design. From the picture below you can see that I marked some suggested starting places you can drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course they don't have to be exactly where I indicated - any thing close will do.
> 
> Drill using the smallest bit that will fit your blade through it comfortably. By 'comfortably' I mean that you shouldn't have to struggle to push your blade through the hole, as this could result in bending the blade - especially if you are using a small blade. But you want to keep the entry hole as small as you can. When you are finished drilling the holes, be sure to sand the back of the plaque with some sand paper. Otherwise the bumps from the back of the drill holes will interfere with allowing your piece to sit flat on the scroll saw table.
> 
> After drilling and sanding, we are now ready to cut.
> 
> For my own piece here, I am using 1/2" (Maple) and a size 2-reverse tooth scroll saw blade. You can use anything similar and get the same results.
> 
> Begin by cutting toward the nearest sharp corner. Aim for the pointiest part of the corner. Remember to let up the pressure as you approach it so you don't overshoot the cut. This is a common mistake that beginners make. (you can go back and review lesson #4 HERE if you want to refresh yourself about not putting too much pressure on the blade and getting not over cutting.) When you reach the end of the point - STOP:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back up the saw blade slightly (perhaps a quarter of an inch or so) WITHOUT TURNING IT - simply pull the piece slightly back through the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut forward again toward the line, only this time go slightly to the LEFT of the line your just cut. Again you are going to stop as you get to your line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you are at the line, you should pivot your piece so that you can cut back to meet the tip of the point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, the little triangular piece should fall out (as indicated by the grey area in the illustration):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are then going to turn your piece so that you will be cutting in a clockwise direction and following the line to the next corner. When you get to the next corner, stop again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will then back your blade up just as you did before (approximately 1/4 of an inch or so) without turning the piece or the blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just as we did on the first corner, we are going to cut to the left of the corner and stop at the line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after the small triangle falls out, turn your piece so you can continue in a clockwise direction and continue on to the next corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue in this manner until you come around to where you started. Be sure to back off the pressure you are pushing on your saw when you are approaching the end. If you push too hard, you will have a tendency to over cut into the piece past your starting point.
> 
> For very sharp angles, there is sometimes an easier way to turn the corners - especially when you are using a very small blade. In the second set of pictures, I have a shape with a very acute angle and an obtuse angle (over 90 degrees) to each side of it. In this case, I drilled my entry hole near the obtuse angle, and began cutting from the hole to the corner of it.
> 
> When I reached the line, instead of backing up the blade and cutting a small triangle out like I did in the last example, I simply turned the piece and began following the line in a clockwise direction and continued cutting:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am able to do this because of the large angle. Depending on which size blade you are using, you should be able to turn most obtuse angles in this manner and still have a nice sharp corner. Remember when you are turning to pivot on the corner and slightly lean your piece to the back of the blade to insure that there is no forward moving while you pivot. Continue along the line until you reach the point of the acute angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you reach that point, you will once again back up your piece about 1/4" and then pivot your piece (toward the waste area)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you will back all the way into the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And from that point you will continue cutting in a clockwise direction:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this gives you a clear idea of how to cut corners. Of course, if you are cutting in a counter-clockwise direction, you will just cut the little triangle out from the opposite side and continue accordingly. Once you get the hang of the process, it will be fairly easy and come second nature to you.
> 
> You will find that as most of the time with scroll sawing, the process is a matter of judgement calls. You will learn by practicing which way of turning is best for the particular area you are at. The thing we are aiming for is to have nice, sharp defined corners without 'spin holes' which are rounded areas made from turning the blade. Crisp and clean angles will make your piece look professional and nice.
> 
> Your homework for this week is to finish cutting all the inside cuts of the frame piece provided. This will be really
> good practice for you and by the time you are finished, you should be feeling a bit more comfortable in doing the process. Next lesson we will learn how to do other types of inside cuts and later on we will learn to bevel cut the piece to make a self-framing plaque.
> 
> Below is the video that will demonstrate these three types of turns that I just explained. I think it will help clarify the steps that I showed you in the drawings above.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course, there are other ways that you can turn too. I am sure that others will have some good input as to other methods that work well for them too. As with most of scroll sawing, there are several correct ways to do things.
> 
> I would suggest you use a board approximately 1/2" thick and a #2 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. If you have something else available, I am sure that will work fine too. Try to use the smallest blade you can and still have control and not have to work too hard moving your piece through the saw. If you have to push hard, or if your blade is wandering too much, try going up a size. You will soon get a feel for what is right for the type of wood you have.
> 
> Feel free to ask questions if there is anything that I missed here. I will be finishing up editing the video and getting it posted here as soon as it is done, so be sure to check back later. But for now, this will get you started.
> 
> Thank you again for participating in the class. I hope you are all having fun!


*Sheila:*

*Super GOOD!*

This is my First watched Video after discovering the *Video Tab!*

*Now, I can see why everyone wanted it! COOL!*

Sheila, you make it look so simple… First of all, I could not disconnect my blade & stick it through a hole like you did… on my cheap saw, it's a PITA to do… I might try it again to see if I can improve the procedure.

How do you drill your holes? Do you have a special, small, handheld device to drill them… or what?
I think the smallest bit I have is 1/16"... probably HUGE per your standards… yes?

*Very good Tips..*. I hadn't given it much thought on cutting out a pattern… i can see the Value of your technique!

*You've opened my eyes quite a bit!*

*Thank you very much!*

I have to watch more & more of these videos!


----------



## Ken90712

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Inside Corners and Angles*
> 
> So far we have looked at how to prepare our wood, choose a blade, cast on and off a piece and cut outside curves and corners. Now it is time we do some inside cutting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most people associate scroll sawing with cutting fretwork. At first many people don't understand that in order to cut fretwork pieces, you need to drill entry holes in the 'waste area' (or the part of the pattern that drops away when you finish your cut) and thread the blade through that drilled hole to cut out the inside piece. This is why it is so important to many scroll sawyers to have a scroll saw that uses *pinless *blades, or blades that have flat ends and attach to the scroll saw by a chuck or a screw squeezing the blade tight to hold it in place while you are cutting.
> 
> Many older and industrial saws used *pin ended blades. *. These are blades have a small pin going through the end of them and look kind of like a 't'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the blade rests in some sort of channel on the end of the arm of the scroll saw and the tension is then tightened to hold the blade in place. While this is an effective way to hold the blade in the saw, it is not always the most practical when doing decorative and delicate scroll saw work.
> 
> The pins at the end of the blades mean that in order to thread the blade through the wood, you would need a much wider entry hole in order to do so. This may be acceptable if you are doing larger pieces, such as fretwork brackets for shelves and trim work, but if you are doing smaller items such as ornaments and other delicate work, you will find that having to use pin ended blades will severely limit the scope of the work you can do. It is for that reason that I highly recommend using a saw that uses pinless blades. Most of the newer saws on the market today fall into this category.
> 
> I often am asked questions as to where to drill the entry holes in a project. While you can certainly drill them anywhere convenient in the waste area, there are usually some better choices that will minimize the time and effort in making a piece.
> 
> When I have a piece with lots of sharp corners, I like to start cutting fairly close a corner. For the same reasons that we started in a corner when doing an outside cut, I feel that it is also best to do so when making an inside cut. The place where we enter and exit our cuts sometimes makes a small bump, and I feel that by starting in an inconspicuous area near a corner, even if there is a small ridge where we enter and exit, it will be very difficult if not impossible to see.
> 
> For this lesson, I have prepared a practice pattern that has lots of sharp inside cuts. You can download the pattern at my Google Documents file here:
> 
> Lesson 7 Practice Sheet
> 
> This is part of a pattern for a self-framing plaque that I designed. It is a pattern that I sell on my site, but I enlarged it a bit so that it would be a little easier for you to practice on. For this lesson, we are only going to work on the frame of the project so I only included that part on the pattern. Next time we will be working on the inside cuts and I will have that part of the pattern for you to download. (You will need to come back for that!)
> 
> Begin by preparing the piece as I showed you in previous lessons, with blue painter's tape and then applying the pattern. (Or use your own favorite method) Cut around the perimeter of the piece so that it is a comfortable size to work with. Place a small drill bit in your drill press and drill out the holes in the waste are of the design. From the picture below you can see that I marked some suggested starting places you can drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course they don't have to be exactly where I indicated - any thing close will do.
> 
> Drill using the smallest bit that will fit your blade through it comfortably. By 'comfortably' I mean that you shouldn't have to struggle to push your blade through the hole, as this could result in bending the blade - especially if you are using a small blade. But you want to keep the entry hole as small as you can. When you are finished drilling the holes, be sure to sand the back of the plaque with some sand paper. Otherwise the bumps from the back of the drill holes will interfere with allowing your piece to sit flat on the scroll saw table.
> 
> After drilling and sanding, we are now ready to cut.
> 
> For my own piece here, I am using 1/2" (Maple) and a size 2-reverse tooth scroll saw blade. You can use anything similar and get the same results.
> 
> Begin by cutting toward the nearest sharp corner. Aim for the pointiest part of the corner. Remember to let up the pressure as you approach it so you don't overshoot the cut. This is a common mistake that beginners make. (you can go back and review lesson #4 HERE if you want to refresh yourself about not putting too much pressure on the blade and getting not over cutting.) When you reach the end of the point - STOP:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back up the saw blade slightly (perhaps a quarter of an inch or so) WITHOUT TURNING IT - simply pull the piece slightly back through the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut forward again toward the line, only this time go slightly to the LEFT of the line your just cut. Again you are going to stop as you get to your line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you are at the line, you should pivot your piece so that you can cut back to meet the tip of the point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, the little triangular piece should fall out (as indicated by the grey area in the illustration):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are then going to turn your piece so that you will be cutting in a clockwise direction and following the line to the next corner. When you get to the next corner, stop again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will then back your blade up just as you did before (approximately 1/4 of an inch or so) without turning the piece or the blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just as we did on the first corner, we are going to cut to the left of the corner and stop at the line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after the small triangle falls out, turn your piece so you can continue in a clockwise direction and continue on to the next corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue in this manner until you come around to where you started. Be sure to back off the pressure you are pushing on your saw when you are approaching the end. If you push too hard, you will have a tendency to over cut into the piece past your starting point.
> 
> For very sharp angles, there is sometimes an easier way to turn the corners - especially when you are using a very small blade. In the second set of pictures, I have a shape with a very acute angle and an obtuse angle (over 90 degrees) to each side of it. In this case, I drilled my entry hole near the obtuse angle, and began cutting from the hole to the corner of it.
> 
> When I reached the line, instead of backing up the blade and cutting a small triangle out like I did in the last example, I simply turned the piece and began following the line in a clockwise direction and continued cutting:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am able to do this because of the large angle. Depending on which size blade you are using, you should be able to turn most obtuse angles in this manner and still have a nice sharp corner. Remember when you are turning to pivot on the corner and slightly lean your piece to the back of the blade to insure that there is no forward moving while you pivot. Continue along the line until you reach the point of the acute angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you reach that point, you will once again back up your piece about 1/4" and then pivot your piece (toward the waste area)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you will back all the way into the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And from that point you will continue cutting in a clockwise direction:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this gives you a clear idea of how to cut corners. Of course, if you are cutting in a counter-clockwise direction, you will just cut the little triangle out from the opposite side and continue accordingly. Once you get the hang of the process, it will be fairly easy and come second nature to you.
> 
> You will find that as most of the time with scroll sawing, the process is a matter of judgement calls. You will learn by practicing which way of turning is best for the particular area you are at. The thing we are aiming for is to have nice, sharp defined corners without 'spin holes' which are rounded areas made from turning the blade. Crisp and clean angles will make your piece look professional and nice.
> 
> Your homework for this week is to finish cutting all the inside cuts of the frame piece provided. This will be really
> good practice for you and by the time you are finished, you should be feeling a bit more comfortable in doing the process. Next lesson we will learn how to do other types of inside cuts and later on we will learn to bevel cut the piece to make a self-framing plaque.
> 
> Below is the video that will demonstrate these three types of turns that I just explained. I think it will help clarify the steps that I showed you in the drawings above.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course, there are other ways that you can turn too. I am sure that others will have some good input as to other methods that work well for them too. As with most of scroll sawing, there are several correct ways to do things.
> 
> I would suggest you use a board approximately 1/2" thick and a #2 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. If you have something else available, I am sure that will work fine too. Try to use the smallest blade you can and still have control and not have to work too hard moving your piece through the saw. If you have to push hard, or if your blade is wandering too much, try going up a size. You will soon get a feel for what is right for the type of wood you have.
> 
> Feel free to ask questions if there is anything that I missed here. I will be finishing up editing the video and getting it posted here as soon as it is done, so be sure to check back later. But for now, this will get you started.
> 
> Thank you again for participating in the class. I hope you are all having fun!


YES, I would agree with the others amazing video and explanations. Great work!


----------



## ArlinEastman

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Inside Corners and Angles*
> 
> So far we have looked at how to prepare our wood, choose a blade, cast on and off a piece and cut outside curves and corners. Now it is time we do some inside cutting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most people associate scroll sawing with cutting fretwork. At first many people don't understand that in order to cut fretwork pieces, you need to drill entry holes in the 'waste area' (or the part of the pattern that drops away when you finish your cut) and thread the blade through that drilled hole to cut out the inside piece. This is why it is so important to many scroll sawyers to have a scroll saw that uses *pinless *blades, or blades that have flat ends and attach to the scroll saw by a chuck or a screw squeezing the blade tight to hold it in place while you are cutting.
> 
> Many older and industrial saws used *pin ended blades. *. These are blades have a small pin going through the end of them and look kind of like a 't'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the blade rests in some sort of channel on the end of the arm of the scroll saw and the tension is then tightened to hold the blade in place. While this is an effective way to hold the blade in the saw, it is not always the most practical when doing decorative and delicate scroll saw work.
> 
> The pins at the end of the blades mean that in order to thread the blade through the wood, you would need a much wider entry hole in order to do so. This may be acceptable if you are doing larger pieces, such as fretwork brackets for shelves and trim work, but if you are doing smaller items such as ornaments and other delicate work, you will find that having to use pin ended blades will severely limit the scope of the work you can do. It is for that reason that I highly recommend using a saw that uses pinless blades. Most of the newer saws on the market today fall into this category.
> 
> I often am asked questions as to where to drill the entry holes in a project. While you can certainly drill them anywhere convenient in the waste area, there are usually some better choices that will minimize the time and effort in making a piece.
> 
> When I have a piece with lots of sharp corners, I like to start cutting fairly close a corner. For the same reasons that we started in a corner when doing an outside cut, I feel that it is also best to do so when making an inside cut. The place where we enter and exit our cuts sometimes makes a small bump, and I feel that by starting in an inconspicuous area near a corner, even if there is a small ridge where we enter and exit, it will be very difficult if not impossible to see.
> 
> For this lesson, I have prepared a practice pattern that has lots of sharp inside cuts. You can download the pattern at my Google Documents file here:
> 
> Lesson 7 Practice Sheet
> 
> This is part of a pattern for a self-framing plaque that I designed. It is a pattern that I sell on my site, but I enlarged it a bit so that it would be a little easier for you to practice on. For this lesson, we are only going to work on the frame of the project so I only included that part on the pattern. Next time we will be working on the inside cuts and I will have that part of the pattern for you to download. (You will need to come back for that!)
> 
> Begin by preparing the piece as I showed you in previous lessons, with blue painter's tape and then applying the pattern. (Or use your own favorite method) Cut around the perimeter of the piece so that it is a comfortable size to work with. Place a small drill bit in your drill press and drill out the holes in the waste are of the design. From the picture below you can see that I marked some suggested starting places you can drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course they don't have to be exactly where I indicated - any thing close will do.
> 
> Drill using the smallest bit that will fit your blade through it comfortably. By 'comfortably' I mean that you shouldn't have to struggle to push your blade through the hole, as this could result in bending the blade - especially if you are using a small blade. But you want to keep the entry hole as small as you can. When you are finished drilling the holes, be sure to sand the back of the plaque with some sand paper. Otherwise the bumps from the back of the drill holes will interfere with allowing your piece to sit flat on the scroll saw table.
> 
> After drilling and sanding, we are now ready to cut.
> 
> For my own piece here, I am using 1/2" (Maple) and a size 2-reverse tooth scroll saw blade. You can use anything similar and get the same results.
> 
> Begin by cutting toward the nearest sharp corner. Aim for the pointiest part of the corner. Remember to let up the pressure as you approach it so you don't overshoot the cut. This is a common mistake that beginners make. (you can go back and review lesson #4 HERE if you want to refresh yourself about not putting too much pressure on the blade and getting not over cutting.) When you reach the end of the point - STOP:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back up the saw blade slightly (perhaps a quarter of an inch or so) WITHOUT TURNING IT - simply pull the piece slightly back through the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut forward again toward the line, only this time go slightly to the LEFT of the line your just cut. Again you are going to stop as you get to your line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you are at the line, you should pivot your piece so that you can cut back to meet the tip of the point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, the little triangular piece should fall out (as indicated by the grey area in the illustration):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are then going to turn your piece so that you will be cutting in a clockwise direction and following the line to the next corner. When you get to the next corner, stop again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will then back your blade up just as you did before (approximately 1/4 of an inch or so) without turning the piece or the blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just as we did on the first corner, we are going to cut to the left of the corner and stop at the line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after the small triangle falls out, turn your piece so you can continue in a clockwise direction and continue on to the next corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue in this manner until you come around to where you started. Be sure to back off the pressure you are pushing on your saw when you are approaching the end. If you push too hard, you will have a tendency to over cut into the piece past your starting point.
> 
> For very sharp angles, there is sometimes an easier way to turn the corners - especially when you are using a very small blade. In the second set of pictures, I have a shape with a very acute angle and an obtuse angle (over 90 degrees) to each side of it. In this case, I drilled my entry hole near the obtuse angle, and began cutting from the hole to the corner of it.
> 
> When I reached the line, instead of backing up the blade and cutting a small triangle out like I did in the last example, I simply turned the piece and began following the line in a clockwise direction and continued cutting:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am able to do this because of the large angle. Depending on which size blade you are using, you should be able to turn most obtuse angles in this manner and still have a nice sharp corner. Remember when you are turning to pivot on the corner and slightly lean your piece to the back of the blade to insure that there is no forward moving while you pivot. Continue along the line until you reach the point of the acute angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you reach that point, you will once again back up your piece about 1/4" and then pivot your piece (toward the waste area)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you will back all the way into the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And from that point you will continue cutting in a clockwise direction:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this gives you a clear idea of how to cut corners. Of course, if you are cutting in a counter-clockwise direction, you will just cut the little triangle out from the opposite side and continue accordingly. Once you get the hang of the process, it will be fairly easy and come second nature to you.
> 
> You will find that as most of the time with scroll sawing, the process is a matter of judgement calls. You will learn by practicing which way of turning is best for the particular area you are at. The thing we are aiming for is to have nice, sharp defined corners without 'spin holes' which are rounded areas made from turning the blade. Crisp and clean angles will make your piece look professional and nice.
> 
> Your homework for this week is to finish cutting all the inside cuts of the frame piece provided. This will be really
> good practice for you and by the time you are finished, you should be feeling a bit more comfortable in doing the process. Next lesson we will learn how to do other types of inside cuts and later on we will learn to bevel cut the piece to make a self-framing plaque.
> 
> Below is the video that will demonstrate these three types of turns that I just explained. I think it will help clarify the steps that I showed you in the drawings above.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course, there are other ways that you can turn too. I am sure that others will have some good input as to other methods that work well for them too. As with most of scroll sawing, there are several correct ways to do things.
> 
> I would suggest you use a board approximately 1/2" thick and a #2 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. If you have something else available, I am sure that will work fine too. Try to use the smallest blade you can and still have control and not have to work too hard moving your piece through the saw. If you have to push hard, or if your blade is wandering too much, try going up a size. You will soon get a feel for what is right for the type of wood you have.
> 
> Feel free to ask questions if there is anything that I missed here. I will be finishing up editing the video and getting it posted here as soon as it is done, so be sure to check back later. But for now, this will get you started.
> 
> Thank you again for participating in the class. I hope you are all having fun!


Shiela
Thank you so much for the tutorial. I will be using this later in th garage
Arlin


----------



## rance

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Inside Corners and Angles*
> 
> So far we have looked at how to prepare our wood, choose a blade, cast on and off a piece and cut outside curves and corners. Now it is time we do some inside cutting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most people associate scroll sawing with cutting fretwork. At first many people don't understand that in order to cut fretwork pieces, you need to drill entry holes in the 'waste area' (or the part of the pattern that drops away when you finish your cut) and thread the blade through that drilled hole to cut out the inside piece. This is why it is so important to many scroll sawyers to have a scroll saw that uses *pinless *blades, or blades that have flat ends and attach to the scroll saw by a chuck or a screw squeezing the blade tight to hold it in place while you are cutting.
> 
> Many older and industrial saws used *pin ended blades. *. These are blades have a small pin going through the end of them and look kind of like a 't'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the blade rests in some sort of channel on the end of the arm of the scroll saw and the tension is then tightened to hold the blade in place. While this is an effective way to hold the blade in the saw, it is not always the most practical when doing decorative and delicate scroll saw work.
> 
> The pins at the end of the blades mean that in order to thread the blade through the wood, you would need a much wider entry hole in order to do so. This may be acceptable if you are doing larger pieces, such as fretwork brackets for shelves and trim work, but if you are doing smaller items such as ornaments and other delicate work, you will find that having to use pin ended blades will severely limit the scope of the work you can do. It is for that reason that I highly recommend using a saw that uses pinless blades. Most of the newer saws on the market today fall into this category.
> 
> I often am asked questions as to where to drill the entry holes in a project. While you can certainly drill them anywhere convenient in the waste area, there are usually some better choices that will minimize the time and effort in making a piece.
> 
> When I have a piece with lots of sharp corners, I like to start cutting fairly close a corner. For the same reasons that we started in a corner when doing an outside cut, I feel that it is also best to do so when making an inside cut. The place where we enter and exit our cuts sometimes makes a small bump, and I feel that by starting in an inconspicuous area near a corner, even if there is a small ridge where we enter and exit, it will be very difficult if not impossible to see.
> 
> For this lesson, I have prepared a practice pattern that has lots of sharp inside cuts. You can download the pattern at my Google Documents file here:
> 
> Lesson 7 Practice Sheet
> 
> This is part of a pattern for a self-framing plaque that I designed. It is a pattern that I sell on my site, but I enlarged it a bit so that it would be a little easier for you to practice on. For this lesson, we are only going to work on the frame of the project so I only included that part on the pattern. Next time we will be working on the inside cuts and I will have that part of the pattern for you to download. (You will need to come back for that!)
> 
> Begin by preparing the piece as I showed you in previous lessons, with blue painter's tape and then applying the pattern. (Or use your own favorite method) Cut around the perimeter of the piece so that it is a comfortable size to work with. Place a small drill bit in your drill press and drill out the holes in the waste are of the design. From the picture below you can see that I marked some suggested starting places you can drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course they don't have to be exactly where I indicated - any thing close will do.
> 
> Drill using the smallest bit that will fit your blade through it comfortably. By 'comfortably' I mean that you shouldn't have to struggle to push your blade through the hole, as this could result in bending the blade - especially if you are using a small blade. But you want to keep the entry hole as small as you can. When you are finished drilling the holes, be sure to sand the back of the plaque with some sand paper. Otherwise the bumps from the back of the drill holes will interfere with allowing your piece to sit flat on the scroll saw table.
> 
> After drilling and sanding, we are now ready to cut.
> 
> For my own piece here, I am using 1/2" (Maple) and a size 2-reverse tooth scroll saw blade. You can use anything similar and get the same results.
> 
> Begin by cutting toward the nearest sharp corner. Aim for the pointiest part of the corner. Remember to let up the pressure as you approach it so you don't overshoot the cut. This is a common mistake that beginners make. (you can go back and review lesson #4 HERE if you want to refresh yourself about not putting too much pressure on the blade and getting not over cutting.) When you reach the end of the point - STOP:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back up the saw blade slightly (perhaps a quarter of an inch or so) WITHOUT TURNING IT - simply pull the piece slightly back through the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut forward again toward the line, only this time go slightly to the LEFT of the line your just cut. Again you are going to stop as you get to your line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you are at the line, you should pivot your piece so that you can cut back to meet the tip of the point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, the little triangular piece should fall out (as indicated by the grey area in the illustration):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are then going to turn your piece so that you will be cutting in a clockwise direction and following the line to the next corner. When you get to the next corner, stop again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will then back your blade up just as you did before (approximately 1/4 of an inch or so) without turning the piece or the blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just as we did on the first corner, we are going to cut to the left of the corner and stop at the line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after the small triangle falls out, turn your piece so you can continue in a clockwise direction and continue on to the next corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue in this manner until you come around to where you started. Be sure to back off the pressure you are pushing on your saw when you are approaching the end. If you push too hard, you will have a tendency to over cut into the piece past your starting point.
> 
> For very sharp angles, there is sometimes an easier way to turn the corners - especially when you are using a very small blade. In the second set of pictures, I have a shape with a very acute angle and an obtuse angle (over 90 degrees) to each side of it. In this case, I drilled my entry hole near the obtuse angle, and began cutting from the hole to the corner of it.
> 
> When I reached the line, instead of backing up the blade and cutting a small triangle out like I did in the last example, I simply turned the piece and began following the line in a clockwise direction and continued cutting:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am able to do this because of the large angle. Depending on which size blade you are using, you should be able to turn most obtuse angles in this manner and still have a nice sharp corner. Remember when you are turning to pivot on the corner and slightly lean your piece to the back of the blade to insure that there is no forward moving while you pivot. Continue along the line until you reach the point of the acute angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you reach that point, you will once again back up your piece about 1/4" and then pivot your piece (toward the waste area)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you will back all the way into the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And from that point you will continue cutting in a clockwise direction:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this gives you a clear idea of how to cut corners. Of course, if you are cutting in a counter-clockwise direction, you will just cut the little triangle out from the opposite side and continue accordingly. Once you get the hang of the process, it will be fairly easy and come second nature to you.
> 
> You will find that as most of the time with scroll sawing, the process is a matter of judgement calls. You will learn by practicing which way of turning is best for the particular area you are at. The thing we are aiming for is to have nice, sharp defined corners without 'spin holes' which are rounded areas made from turning the blade. Crisp and clean angles will make your piece look professional and nice.
> 
> Your homework for this week is to finish cutting all the inside cuts of the frame piece provided. This will be really
> good practice for you and by the time you are finished, you should be feeling a bit more comfortable in doing the process. Next lesson we will learn how to do other types of inside cuts and later on we will learn to bevel cut the piece to make a self-framing plaque.
> 
> Below is the video that will demonstrate these three types of turns that I just explained. I think it will help clarify the steps that I showed you in the drawings above.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course, there are other ways that you can turn too. I am sure that others will have some good input as to other methods that work well for them too. As with most of scroll sawing, there are several correct ways to do things.
> 
> I would suggest you use a board approximately 1/2" thick and a #2 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. If you have something else available, I am sure that will work fine too. Try to use the smallest blade you can and still have control and not have to work too hard moving your piece through the saw. If you have to push hard, or if your blade is wandering too much, try going up a size. You will soon get a feel for what is right for the type of wood you have.
> 
> Feel free to ask questions if there is anything that I missed here. I will be finishing up editing the video and getting it posted here as soon as it is done, so be sure to check back later. But for now, this will get you started.
> 
> Thank you again for participating in the class. I hope you are all having fun!


More learning for me. Thank you for sharing Sheila.


----------



## redbaronstoys

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Inside Corners and Angles*
> 
> So far we have looked at how to prepare our wood, choose a blade, cast on and off a piece and cut outside curves and corners. Now it is time we do some inside cutting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most people associate scroll sawing with cutting fretwork. At first many people don't understand that in order to cut fretwork pieces, you need to drill entry holes in the 'waste area' (or the part of the pattern that drops away when you finish your cut) and thread the blade through that drilled hole to cut out the inside piece. This is why it is so important to many scroll sawyers to have a scroll saw that uses *pinless *blades, or blades that have flat ends and attach to the scroll saw by a chuck or a screw squeezing the blade tight to hold it in place while you are cutting.
> 
> Many older and industrial saws used *pin ended blades. *. These are blades have a small pin going through the end of them and look kind of like a 't'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the blade rests in some sort of channel on the end of the arm of the scroll saw and the tension is then tightened to hold the blade in place. While this is an effective way to hold the blade in the saw, it is not always the most practical when doing decorative and delicate scroll saw work.
> 
> The pins at the end of the blades mean that in order to thread the blade through the wood, you would need a much wider entry hole in order to do so. This may be acceptable if you are doing larger pieces, such as fretwork brackets for shelves and trim work, but if you are doing smaller items such as ornaments and other delicate work, you will find that having to use pin ended blades will severely limit the scope of the work you can do. It is for that reason that I highly recommend using a saw that uses pinless blades. Most of the newer saws on the market today fall into this category.
> 
> I often am asked questions as to where to drill the entry holes in a project. While you can certainly drill them anywhere convenient in the waste area, there are usually some better choices that will minimize the time and effort in making a piece.
> 
> When I have a piece with lots of sharp corners, I like to start cutting fairly close a corner. For the same reasons that we started in a corner when doing an outside cut, I feel that it is also best to do so when making an inside cut. The place where we enter and exit our cuts sometimes makes a small bump, and I feel that by starting in an inconspicuous area near a corner, even if there is a small ridge where we enter and exit, it will be very difficult if not impossible to see.
> 
> For this lesson, I have prepared a practice pattern that has lots of sharp inside cuts. You can download the pattern at my Google Documents file here:
> 
> Lesson 7 Practice Sheet
> 
> This is part of a pattern for a self-framing plaque that I designed. It is a pattern that I sell on my site, but I enlarged it a bit so that it would be a little easier for you to practice on. For this lesson, we are only going to work on the frame of the project so I only included that part on the pattern. Next time we will be working on the inside cuts and I will have that part of the pattern for you to download. (You will need to come back for that!)
> 
> Begin by preparing the piece as I showed you in previous lessons, with blue painter's tape and then applying the pattern. (Or use your own favorite method) Cut around the perimeter of the piece so that it is a comfortable size to work with. Place a small drill bit in your drill press and drill out the holes in the waste are of the design. From the picture below you can see that I marked some suggested starting places you can drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course they don't have to be exactly where I indicated - any thing close will do.
> 
> Drill using the smallest bit that will fit your blade through it comfortably. By 'comfortably' I mean that you shouldn't have to struggle to push your blade through the hole, as this could result in bending the blade - especially if you are using a small blade. But you want to keep the entry hole as small as you can. When you are finished drilling the holes, be sure to sand the back of the plaque with some sand paper. Otherwise the bumps from the back of the drill holes will interfere with allowing your piece to sit flat on the scroll saw table.
> 
> After drilling and sanding, we are now ready to cut.
> 
> For my own piece here, I am using 1/2" (Maple) and a size 2-reverse tooth scroll saw blade. You can use anything similar and get the same results.
> 
> Begin by cutting toward the nearest sharp corner. Aim for the pointiest part of the corner. Remember to let up the pressure as you approach it so you don't overshoot the cut. This is a common mistake that beginners make. (you can go back and review lesson #4 HERE if you want to refresh yourself about not putting too much pressure on the blade and getting not over cutting.) When you reach the end of the point - STOP:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back up the saw blade slightly (perhaps a quarter of an inch or so) WITHOUT TURNING IT - simply pull the piece slightly back through the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut forward again toward the line, only this time go slightly to the LEFT of the line your just cut. Again you are going to stop as you get to your line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you are at the line, you should pivot your piece so that you can cut back to meet the tip of the point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, the little triangular piece should fall out (as indicated by the grey area in the illustration):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are then going to turn your piece so that you will be cutting in a clockwise direction and following the line to the next corner. When you get to the next corner, stop again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will then back your blade up just as you did before (approximately 1/4 of an inch or so) without turning the piece or the blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just as we did on the first corner, we are going to cut to the left of the corner and stop at the line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after the small triangle falls out, turn your piece so you can continue in a clockwise direction and continue on to the next corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue in this manner until you come around to where you started. Be sure to back off the pressure you are pushing on your saw when you are approaching the end. If you push too hard, you will have a tendency to over cut into the piece past your starting point.
> 
> For very sharp angles, there is sometimes an easier way to turn the corners - especially when you are using a very small blade. In the second set of pictures, I have a shape with a very acute angle and an obtuse angle (over 90 degrees) to each side of it. In this case, I drilled my entry hole near the obtuse angle, and began cutting from the hole to the corner of it.
> 
> When I reached the line, instead of backing up the blade and cutting a small triangle out like I did in the last example, I simply turned the piece and began following the line in a clockwise direction and continued cutting:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am able to do this because of the large angle. Depending on which size blade you are using, you should be able to turn most obtuse angles in this manner and still have a nice sharp corner. Remember when you are turning to pivot on the corner and slightly lean your piece to the back of the blade to insure that there is no forward moving while you pivot. Continue along the line until you reach the point of the acute angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you reach that point, you will once again back up your piece about 1/4" and then pivot your piece (toward the waste area)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you will back all the way into the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And from that point you will continue cutting in a clockwise direction:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this gives you a clear idea of how to cut corners. Of course, if you are cutting in a counter-clockwise direction, you will just cut the little triangle out from the opposite side and continue accordingly. Once you get the hang of the process, it will be fairly easy and come second nature to you.
> 
> You will find that as most of the time with scroll sawing, the process is a matter of judgement calls. You will learn by practicing which way of turning is best for the particular area you are at. The thing we are aiming for is to have nice, sharp defined corners without 'spin holes' which are rounded areas made from turning the blade. Crisp and clean angles will make your piece look professional and nice.
> 
> Your homework for this week is to finish cutting all the inside cuts of the frame piece provided. This will be really
> good practice for you and by the time you are finished, you should be feeling a bit more comfortable in doing the process. Next lesson we will learn how to do other types of inside cuts and later on we will learn to bevel cut the piece to make a self-framing plaque.
> 
> Below is the video that will demonstrate these three types of turns that I just explained. I think it will help clarify the steps that I showed you in the drawings above.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course, there are other ways that you can turn too. I am sure that others will have some good input as to other methods that work well for them too. As with most of scroll sawing, there are several correct ways to do things.
> 
> I would suggest you use a board approximately 1/2" thick and a #2 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. If you have something else available, I am sure that will work fine too. Try to use the smallest blade you can and still have control and not have to work too hard moving your piece through the saw. If you have to push hard, or if your blade is wandering too much, try going up a size. You will soon get a feel for what is right for the type of wood you have.
> 
> Feel free to ask questions if there is anything that I missed here. I will be finishing up editing the video and getting it posted here as soon as it is done, so be sure to check back later. But for now, this will get you started.
> 
> Thank you again for participating in the class. I hope you are all having fun!


This was a timely lesson. I was having difficulties making that inside cut. I was all over the place with the cut. Your technique in this regard is excellent. I also like how you "eject" the waste piece after cutting. I'll have to try that too.

I am new to scrolling and am enjoying myself. I get frustrated at times, but I remind myself I am still new and need practice.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Inside Corners and Angles*
> 
> So far we have looked at how to prepare our wood, choose a blade, cast on and off a piece and cut outside curves and corners. Now it is time we do some inside cutting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most people associate scroll sawing with cutting fretwork. At first many people don't understand that in order to cut fretwork pieces, you need to drill entry holes in the 'waste area' (or the part of the pattern that drops away when you finish your cut) and thread the blade through that drilled hole to cut out the inside piece. This is why it is so important to many scroll sawyers to have a scroll saw that uses *pinless *blades, or blades that have flat ends and attach to the scroll saw by a chuck or a screw squeezing the blade tight to hold it in place while you are cutting.
> 
> Many older and industrial saws used *pin ended blades. *. These are blades have a small pin going through the end of them and look kind of like a 't'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the blade rests in some sort of channel on the end of the arm of the scroll saw and the tension is then tightened to hold the blade in place. While this is an effective way to hold the blade in the saw, it is not always the most practical when doing decorative and delicate scroll saw work.
> 
> The pins at the end of the blades mean that in order to thread the blade through the wood, you would need a much wider entry hole in order to do so. This may be acceptable if you are doing larger pieces, such as fretwork brackets for shelves and trim work, but if you are doing smaller items such as ornaments and other delicate work, you will find that having to use pin ended blades will severely limit the scope of the work you can do. It is for that reason that I highly recommend using a saw that uses pinless blades. Most of the newer saws on the market today fall into this category.
> 
> I often am asked questions as to where to drill the entry holes in a project. While you can certainly drill them anywhere convenient in the waste area, there are usually some better choices that will minimize the time and effort in making a piece.
> 
> When I have a piece with lots of sharp corners, I like to start cutting fairly close a corner. For the same reasons that we started in a corner when doing an outside cut, I feel that it is also best to do so when making an inside cut. The place where we enter and exit our cuts sometimes makes a small bump, and I feel that by starting in an inconspicuous area near a corner, even if there is a small ridge where we enter and exit, it will be very difficult if not impossible to see.
> 
> For this lesson, I have prepared a practice pattern that has lots of sharp inside cuts. You can download the pattern at my Google Documents file here:
> 
> Lesson 7 Practice Sheet
> 
> This is part of a pattern for a self-framing plaque that I designed. It is a pattern that I sell on my site, but I enlarged it a bit so that it would be a little easier for you to practice on. For this lesson, we are only going to work on the frame of the project so I only included that part on the pattern. Next time we will be working on the inside cuts and I will have that part of the pattern for you to download. (You will need to come back for that!)
> 
> Begin by preparing the piece as I showed you in previous lessons, with blue painter's tape and then applying the pattern. (Or use your own favorite method) Cut around the perimeter of the piece so that it is a comfortable size to work with. Place a small drill bit in your drill press and drill out the holes in the waste are of the design. From the picture below you can see that I marked some suggested starting places you can drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course they don't have to be exactly where I indicated - any thing close will do.
> 
> Drill using the smallest bit that will fit your blade through it comfortably. By 'comfortably' I mean that you shouldn't have to struggle to push your blade through the hole, as this could result in bending the blade - especially if you are using a small blade. But you want to keep the entry hole as small as you can. When you are finished drilling the holes, be sure to sand the back of the plaque with some sand paper. Otherwise the bumps from the back of the drill holes will interfere with allowing your piece to sit flat on the scroll saw table.
> 
> After drilling and sanding, we are now ready to cut.
> 
> For my own piece here, I am using 1/2" (Maple) and a size 2-reverse tooth scroll saw blade. You can use anything similar and get the same results.
> 
> Begin by cutting toward the nearest sharp corner. Aim for the pointiest part of the corner. Remember to let up the pressure as you approach it so you don't overshoot the cut. This is a common mistake that beginners make. (you can go back and review lesson #4 HERE if you want to refresh yourself about not putting too much pressure on the blade and getting not over cutting.) When you reach the end of the point - STOP:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back up the saw blade slightly (perhaps a quarter of an inch or so) WITHOUT TURNING IT - simply pull the piece slightly back through the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut forward again toward the line, only this time go slightly to the LEFT of the line your just cut. Again you are going to stop as you get to your line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you are at the line, you should pivot your piece so that you can cut back to meet the tip of the point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, the little triangular piece should fall out (as indicated by the grey area in the illustration):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are then going to turn your piece so that you will be cutting in a clockwise direction and following the line to the next corner. When you get to the next corner, stop again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will then back your blade up just as you did before (approximately 1/4 of an inch or so) without turning the piece or the blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just as we did on the first corner, we are going to cut to the left of the corner and stop at the line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after the small triangle falls out, turn your piece so you can continue in a clockwise direction and continue on to the next corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue in this manner until you come around to where you started. Be sure to back off the pressure you are pushing on your saw when you are approaching the end. If you push too hard, you will have a tendency to over cut into the piece past your starting point.
> 
> For very sharp angles, there is sometimes an easier way to turn the corners - especially when you are using a very small blade. In the second set of pictures, I have a shape with a very acute angle and an obtuse angle (over 90 degrees) to each side of it. In this case, I drilled my entry hole near the obtuse angle, and began cutting from the hole to the corner of it.
> 
> When I reached the line, instead of backing up the blade and cutting a small triangle out like I did in the last example, I simply turned the piece and began following the line in a clockwise direction and continued cutting:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am able to do this because of the large angle. Depending on which size blade you are using, you should be able to turn most obtuse angles in this manner and still have a nice sharp corner. Remember when you are turning to pivot on the corner and slightly lean your piece to the back of the blade to insure that there is no forward moving while you pivot. Continue along the line until you reach the point of the acute angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you reach that point, you will once again back up your piece about 1/4" and then pivot your piece (toward the waste area)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you will back all the way into the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And from that point you will continue cutting in a clockwise direction:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this gives you a clear idea of how to cut corners. Of course, if you are cutting in a counter-clockwise direction, you will just cut the little triangle out from the opposite side and continue accordingly. Once you get the hang of the process, it will be fairly easy and come second nature to you.
> 
> You will find that as most of the time with scroll sawing, the process is a matter of judgement calls. You will learn by practicing which way of turning is best for the particular area you are at. The thing we are aiming for is to have nice, sharp defined corners without 'spin holes' which are rounded areas made from turning the blade. Crisp and clean angles will make your piece look professional and nice.
> 
> Your homework for this week is to finish cutting all the inside cuts of the frame piece provided. This will be really
> good practice for you and by the time you are finished, you should be feeling a bit more comfortable in doing the process. Next lesson we will learn how to do other types of inside cuts and later on we will learn to bevel cut the piece to make a self-framing plaque.
> 
> Below is the video that will demonstrate these three types of turns that I just explained. I think it will help clarify the steps that I showed you in the drawings above.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course, there are other ways that you can turn too. I am sure that others will have some good input as to other methods that work well for them too. As with most of scroll sawing, there are several correct ways to do things.
> 
> I would suggest you use a board approximately 1/2" thick and a #2 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. If you have something else available, I am sure that will work fine too. Try to use the smallest blade you can and still have control and not have to work too hard moving your piece through the saw. If you have to push hard, or if your blade is wandering too much, try going up a size. You will soon get a feel for what is right for the type of wood you have.
> 
> Feel free to ask questions if there is anything that I missed here. I will be finishing up editing the video and getting it posted here as soon as it is done, so be sure to check back later. But for now, this will get you started.
> 
> Thank you again for participating in the class. I hope you are all having fun!


Thank you so much, everyone. I am glad you are enjoying the lessons. I hope to get the next one posted this upcoming weekend (Sept 3rd or 4th) so stay tuned. I am doing my best to get them to you in a timely manner but stuff sometimes comes up and I don't want to rush them so that I am sure that I am explaining everything correctly.

Redbaron - the pieces kind of pop out on their own most of the time. If one does get stuck, I don't sweat it and just get rid of it when the saw is stopped. Sometimes trying to make it pop out backfires if you get the blade caught. It can cause your piece to jump. Just a word of caution. A

As always, practice is the best thing. The more you do it, the more you find little tricks of your own to make things easier. I am pleased that so many of you are happy with the lessons and videos. You are all going to have to start posting your work so we can all see. 

Sheila


----------



## Pdub

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Inside Corners and Angles*
> 
> So far we have looked at how to prepare our wood, choose a blade, cast on and off a piece and cut outside curves and corners. Now it is time we do some inside cutting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most people associate scroll sawing with cutting fretwork. At first many people don't understand that in order to cut fretwork pieces, you need to drill entry holes in the 'waste area' (or the part of the pattern that drops away when you finish your cut) and thread the blade through that drilled hole to cut out the inside piece. This is why it is so important to many scroll sawyers to have a scroll saw that uses *pinless *blades, or blades that have flat ends and attach to the scroll saw by a chuck or a screw squeezing the blade tight to hold it in place while you are cutting.
> 
> Many older and industrial saws used *pin ended blades. *. These are blades have a small pin going through the end of them and look kind of like a 't'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the blade rests in some sort of channel on the end of the arm of the scroll saw and the tension is then tightened to hold the blade in place. While this is an effective way to hold the blade in the saw, it is not always the most practical when doing decorative and delicate scroll saw work.
> 
> The pins at the end of the blades mean that in order to thread the blade through the wood, you would need a much wider entry hole in order to do so. This may be acceptable if you are doing larger pieces, such as fretwork brackets for shelves and trim work, but if you are doing smaller items such as ornaments and other delicate work, you will find that having to use pin ended blades will severely limit the scope of the work you can do. It is for that reason that I highly recommend using a saw that uses pinless blades. Most of the newer saws on the market today fall into this category.
> 
> I often am asked questions as to where to drill the entry holes in a project. While you can certainly drill them anywhere convenient in the waste area, there are usually some better choices that will minimize the time and effort in making a piece.
> 
> When I have a piece with lots of sharp corners, I like to start cutting fairly close a corner. For the same reasons that we started in a corner when doing an outside cut, I feel that it is also best to do so when making an inside cut. The place where we enter and exit our cuts sometimes makes a small bump, and I feel that by starting in an inconspicuous area near a corner, even if there is a small ridge where we enter and exit, it will be very difficult if not impossible to see.
> 
> For this lesson, I have prepared a practice pattern that has lots of sharp inside cuts. You can download the pattern at my Google Documents file here:
> 
> Lesson 7 Practice Sheet
> 
> This is part of a pattern for a self-framing plaque that I designed. It is a pattern that I sell on my site, but I enlarged it a bit so that it would be a little easier for you to practice on. For this lesson, we are only going to work on the frame of the project so I only included that part on the pattern. Next time we will be working on the inside cuts and I will have that part of the pattern for you to download. (You will need to come back for that!)
> 
> Begin by preparing the piece as I showed you in previous lessons, with blue painter's tape and then applying the pattern. (Or use your own favorite method) Cut around the perimeter of the piece so that it is a comfortable size to work with. Place a small drill bit in your drill press and drill out the holes in the waste are of the design. From the picture below you can see that I marked some suggested starting places you can drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course they don't have to be exactly where I indicated - any thing close will do.
> 
> Drill using the smallest bit that will fit your blade through it comfortably. By 'comfortably' I mean that you shouldn't have to struggle to push your blade through the hole, as this could result in bending the blade - especially if you are using a small blade. But you want to keep the entry hole as small as you can. When you are finished drilling the holes, be sure to sand the back of the plaque with some sand paper. Otherwise the bumps from the back of the drill holes will interfere with allowing your piece to sit flat on the scroll saw table.
> 
> After drilling and sanding, we are now ready to cut.
> 
> For my own piece here, I am using 1/2" (Maple) and a size 2-reverse tooth scroll saw blade. You can use anything similar and get the same results.
> 
> Begin by cutting toward the nearest sharp corner. Aim for the pointiest part of the corner. Remember to let up the pressure as you approach it so you don't overshoot the cut. This is a common mistake that beginners make. (you can go back and review lesson #4 HERE if you want to refresh yourself about not putting too much pressure on the blade and getting not over cutting.) When you reach the end of the point - STOP:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back up the saw blade slightly (perhaps a quarter of an inch or so) WITHOUT TURNING IT - simply pull the piece slightly back through the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut forward again toward the line, only this time go slightly to the LEFT of the line your just cut. Again you are going to stop as you get to your line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you are at the line, you should pivot your piece so that you can cut back to meet the tip of the point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, the little triangular piece should fall out (as indicated by the grey area in the illustration):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are then going to turn your piece so that you will be cutting in a clockwise direction and following the line to the next corner. When you get to the next corner, stop again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will then back your blade up just as you did before (approximately 1/4 of an inch or so) without turning the piece or the blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just as we did on the first corner, we are going to cut to the left of the corner and stop at the line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after the small triangle falls out, turn your piece so you can continue in a clockwise direction and continue on to the next corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue in this manner until you come around to where you started. Be sure to back off the pressure you are pushing on your saw when you are approaching the end. If you push too hard, you will have a tendency to over cut into the piece past your starting point.
> 
> For very sharp angles, there is sometimes an easier way to turn the corners - especially when you are using a very small blade. In the second set of pictures, I have a shape with a very acute angle and an obtuse angle (over 90 degrees) to each side of it. In this case, I drilled my entry hole near the obtuse angle, and began cutting from the hole to the corner of it.
> 
> When I reached the line, instead of backing up the blade and cutting a small triangle out like I did in the last example, I simply turned the piece and began following the line in a clockwise direction and continued cutting:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am able to do this because of the large angle. Depending on which size blade you are using, you should be able to turn most obtuse angles in this manner and still have a nice sharp corner. Remember when you are turning to pivot on the corner and slightly lean your piece to the back of the blade to insure that there is no forward moving while you pivot. Continue along the line until you reach the point of the acute angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you reach that point, you will once again back up your piece about 1/4" and then pivot your piece (toward the waste area)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you will back all the way into the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And from that point you will continue cutting in a clockwise direction:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this gives you a clear idea of how to cut corners. Of course, if you are cutting in a counter-clockwise direction, you will just cut the little triangle out from the opposite side and continue accordingly. Once you get the hang of the process, it will be fairly easy and come second nature to you.
> 
> You will find that as most of the time with scroll sawing, the process is a matter of judgement calls. You will learn by practicing which way of turning is best for the particular area you are at. The thing we are aiming for is to have nice, sharp defined corners without 'spin holes' which are rounded areas made from turning the blade. Crisp and clean angles will make your piece look professional and nice.
> 
> Your homework for this week is to finish cutting all the inside cuts of the frame piece provided. This will be really
> good practice for you and by the time you are finished, you should be feeling a bit more comfortable in doing the process. Next lesson we will learn how to do other types of inside cuts and later on we will learn to bevel cut the piece to make a self-framing plaque.
> 
> Below is the video that will demonstrate these three types of turns that I just explained. I think it will help clarify the steps that I showed you in the drawings above.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course, there are other ways that you can turn too. I am sure that others will have some good input as to other methods that work well for them too. As with most of scroll sawing, there are several correct ways to do things.
> 
> I would suggest you use a board approximately 1/2" thick and a #2 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. If you have something else available, I am sure that will work fine too. Try to use the smallest blade you can and still have control and not have to work too hard moving your piece through the saw. If you have to push hard, or if your blade is wandering too much, try going up a size. You will soon get a feel for what is right for the type of wood you have.
> 
> Feel free to ask questions if there is anything that I missed here. I will be finishing up editing the video and getting it posted here as soon as it is done, so be sure to check back later. But for now, this will get you started.
> 
> Thank you again for participating in the class. I hope you are all having fun!


I must confess: I read this one first (about a week ago) and never read any of the previous series. Until today. The blue tape idea sounds like a real winner. I would never have thought of that but will definately try it on my next project. I read this just in time as from now till Christmas is my busy time on my scrollsaw. Once again you taught this old dog a new trick. Thanks again Sheila!!!


----------



## Eugene

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Inside Corners and Angles*
> 
> So far we have looked at how to prepare our wood, choose a blade, cast on and off a piece and cut outside curves and corners. Now it is time we do some inside cutting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most people associate scroll sawing with cutting fretwork. At first many people don't understand that in order to cut fretwork pieces, you need to drill entry holes in the 'waste area' (or the part of the pattern that drops away when you finish your cut) and thread the blade through that drilled hole to cut out the inside piece. This is why it is so important to many scroll sawyers to have a scroll saw that uses *pinless *blades, or blades that have flat ends and attach to the scroll saw by a chuck or a screw squeezing the blade tight to hold it in place while you are cutting.
> 
> Many older and industrial saws used *pin ended blades. *. These are blades have a small pin going through the end of them and look kind of like a 't'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the blade rests in some sort of channel on the end of the arm of the scroll saw and the tension is then tightened to hold the blade in place. While this is an effective way to hold the blade in the saw, it is not always the most practical when doing decorative and delicate scroll saw work.
> 
> The pins at the end of the blades mean that in order to thread the blade through the wood, you would need a much wider entry hole in order to do so. This may be acceptable if you are doing larger pieces, such as fretwork brackets for shelves and trim work, but if you are doing smaller items such as ornaments and other delicate work, you will find that having to use pin ended blades will severely limit the scope of the work you can do. It is for that reason that I highly recommend using a saw that uses pinless blades. Most of the newer saws on the market today fall into this category.
> 
> I often am asked questions as to where to drill the entry holes in a project. While you can certainly drill them anywhere convenient in the waste area, there are usually some better choices that will minimize the time and effort in making a piece.
> 
> When I have a piece with lots of sharp corners, I like to start cutting fairly close a corner. For the same reasons that we started in a corner when doing an outside cut, I feel that it is also best to do so when making an inside cut. The place where we enter and exit our cuts sometimes makes a small bump, and I feel that by starting in an inconspicuous area near a corner, even if there is a small ridge where we enter and exit, it will be very difficult if not impossible to see.
> 
> For this lesson, I have prepared a practice pattern that has lots of sharp inside cuts. You can download the pattern at my Google Documents file here:
> 
> Lesson 7 Practice Sheet
> 
> This is part of a pattern for a self-framing plaque that I designed. It is a pattern that I sell on my site, but I enlarged it a bit so that it would be a little easier for you to practice on. For this lesson, we are only going to work on the frame of the project so I only included that part on the pattern. Next time we will be working on the inside cuts and I will have that part of the pattern for you to download. (You will need to come back for that!)
> 
> Begin by preparing the piece as I showed you in previous lessons, with blue painter's tape and then applying the pattern. (Or use your own favorite method) Cut around the perimeter of the piece so that it is a comfortable size to work with. Place a small drill bit in your drill press and drill out the holes in the waste are of the design. From the picture below you can see that I marked some suggested starting places you can drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course they don't have to be exactly where I indicated - any thing close will do.
> 
> Drill using the smallest bit that will fit your blade through it comfortably. By 'comfortably' I mean that you shouldn't have to struggle to push your blade through the hole, as this could result in bending the blade - especially if you are using a small blade. But you want to keep the entry hole as small as you can. When you are finished drilling the holes, be sure to sand the back of the plaque with some sand paper. Otherwise the bumps from the back of the drill holes will interfere with allowing your piece to sit flat on the scroll saw table.
> 
> After drilling and sanding, we are now ready to cut.
> 
> For my own piece here, I am using 1/2" (Maple) and a size 2-reverse tooth scroll saw blade. You can use anything similar and get the same results.
> 
> Begin by cutting toward the nearest sharp corner. Aim for the pointiest part of the corner. Remember to let up the pressure as you approach it so you don't overshoot the cut. This is a common mistake that beginners make. (you can go back and review lesson #4 HERE if you want to refresh yourself about not putting too much pressure on the blade and getting not over cutting.) When you reach the end of the point - STOP:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back up the saw blade slightly (perhaps a quarter of an inch or so) WITHOUT TURNING IT - simply pull the piece slightly back through the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut forward again toward the line, only this time go slightly to the LEFT of the line your just cut. Again you are going to stop as you get to your line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you are at the line, you should pivot your piece so that you can cut back to meet the tip of the point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, the little triangular piece should fall out (as indicated by the grey area in the illustration):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are then going to turn your piece so that you will be cutting in a clockwise direction and following the line to the next corner. When you get to the next corner, stop again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will then back your blade up just as you did before (approximately 1/4 of an inch or so) without turning the piece or the blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just as we did on the first corner, we are going to cut to the left of the corner and stop at the line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after the small triangle falls out, turn your piece so you can continue in a clockwise direction and continue on to the next corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue in this manner until you come around to where you started. Be sure to back off the pressure you are pushing on your saw when you are approaching the end. If you push too hard, you will have a tendency to over cut into the piece past your starting point.
> 
> For very sharp angles, there is sometimes an easier way to turn the corners - especially when you are using a very small blade. In the second set of pictures, I have a shape with a very acute angle and an obtuse angle (over 90 degrees) to each side of it. In this case, I drilled my entry hole near the obtuse angle, and began cutting from the hole to the corner of it.
> 
> When I reached the line, instead of backing up the blade and cutting a small triangle out like I did in the last example, I simply turned the piece and began following the line in a clockwise direction and continued cutting:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am able to do this because of the large angle. Depending on which size blade you are using, you should be able to turn most obtuse angles in this manner and still have a nice sharp corner. Remember when you are turning to pivot on the corner and slightly lean your piece to the back of the blade to insure that there is no forward moving while you pivot. Continue along the line until you reach the point of the acute angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you reach that point, you will once again back up your piece about 1/4" and then pivot your piece (toward the waste area)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you will back all the way into the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And from that point you will continue cutting in a clockwise direction:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this gives you a clear idea of how to cut corners. Of course, if you are cutting in a counter-clockwise direction, you will just cut the little triangle out from the opposite side and continue accordingly. Once you get the hang of the process, it will be fairly easy and come second nature to you.
> 
> You will find that as most of the time with scroll sawing, the process is a matter of judgement calls. You will learn by practicing which way of turning is best for the particular area you are at. The thing we are aiming for is to have nice, sharp defined corners without 'spin holes' which are rounded areas made from turning the blade. Crisp and clean angles will make your piece look professional and nice.
> 
> Your homework for this week is to finish cutting all the inside cuts of the frame piece provided. This will be really
> good practice for you and by the time you are finished, you should be feeling a bit more comfortable in doing the process. Next lesson we will learn how to do other types of inside cuts and later on we will learn to bevel cut the piece to make a self-framing plaque.
> 
> Below is the video that will demonstrate these three types of turns that I just explained. I think it will help clarify the steps that I showed you in the drawings above.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course, there are other ways that you can turn too. I am sure that others will have some good input as to other methods that work well for them too. As with most of scroll sawing, there are several correct ways to do things.
> 
> I would suggest you use a board approximately 1/2" thick and a #2 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. If you have something else available, I am sure that will work fine too. Try to use the smallest blade you can and still have control and not have to work too hard moving your piece through the saw. If you have to push hard, or if your blade is wandering too much, try going up a size. You will soon get a feel for what is right for the type of wood you have.
> 
> Feel free to ask questions if there is anything that I missed here. I will be finishing up editing the video and getting it posted here as soon as it is done, so be sure to check back later. But for now, this will get you started.
> 
> Thank you again for participating in the class. I hope you are all having fun!


I have dabbled a little with scrollsawing back in the day but gave up on finding patterns. But I must say that you are good. Makes me want to try it again. I'll be watching for more of your work.


----------



## huntter2022

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Inside Corners and Angles*
> 
> So far we have looked at how to prepare our wood, choose a blade, cast on and off a piece and cut outside curves and corners. Now it is time we do some inside cutting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most people associate scroll sawing with cutting fretwork. At first many people don't understand that in order to cut fretwork pieces, you need to drill entry holes in the 'waste area' (or the part of the pattern that drops away when you finish your cut) and thread the blade through that drilled hole to cut out the inside piece. This is why it is so important to many scroll sawyers to have a scroll saw that uses *pinless *blades, or blades that have flat ends and attach to the scroll saw by a chuck or a screw squeezing the blade tight to hold it in place while you are cutting.
> 
> Many older and industrial saws used *pin ended blades. *. These are blades have a small pin going through the end of them and look kind of like a 't'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the blade rests in some sort of channel on the end of the arm of the scroll saw and the tension is then tightened to hold the blade in place. While this is an effective way to hold the blade in the saw, it is not always the most practical when doing decorative and delicate scroll saw work.
> 
> The pins at the end of the blades mean that in order to thread the blade through the wood, you would need a much wider entry hole in order to do so. This may be acceptable if you are doing larger pieces, such as fretwork brackets for shelves and trim work, but if you are doing smaller items such as ornaments and other delicate work, you will find that having to use pin ended blades will severely limit the scope of the work you can do. It is for that reason that I highly recommend using a saw that uses pinless blades. Most of the newer saws on the market today fall into this category.
> 
> I often am asked questions as to where to drill the entry holes in a project. While you can certainly drill them anywhere convenient in the waste area, there are usually some better choices that will minimize the time and effort in making a piece.
> 
> When I have a piece with lots of sharp corners, I like to start cutting fairly close a corner. For the same reasons that we started in a corner when doing an outside cut, I feel that it is also best to do so when making an inside cut. The place where we enter and exit our cuts sometimes makes a small bump, and I feel that by starting in an inconspicuous area near a corner, even if there is a small ridge where we enter and exit, it will be very difficult if not impossible to see.
> 
> For this lesson, I have prepared a practice pattern that has lots of sharp inside cuts. You can download the pattern at my Google Documents file here:
> 
> Lesson 7 Practice Sheet
> 
> This is part of a pattern for a self-framing plaque that I designed. It is a pattern that I sell on my site, but I enlarged it a bit so that it would be a little easier for you to practice on. For this lesson, we are only going to work on the frame of the project so I only included that part on the pattern. Next time we will be working on the inside cuts and I will have that part of the pattern for you to download. (You will need to come back for that!)
> 
> Begin by preparing the piece as I showed you in previous lessons, with blue painter's tape and then applying the pattern. (Or use your own favorite method) Cut around the perimeter of the piece so that it is a comfortable size to work with. Place a small drill bit in your drill press and drill out the holes in the waste are of the design. From the picture below you can see that I marked some suggested starting places you can drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course they don't have to be exactly where I indicated - any thing close will do.
> 
> Drill using the smallest bit that will fit your blade through it comfortably. By 'comfortably' I mean that you shouldn't have to struggle to push your blade through the hole, as this could result in bending the blade - especially if you are using a small blade. But you want to keep the entry hole as small as you can. When you are finished drilling the holes, be sure to sand the back of the plaque with some sand paper. Otherwise the bumps from the back of the drill holes will interfere with allowing your piece to sit flat on the scroll saw table.
> 
> After drilling and sanding, we are now ready to cut.
> 
> For my own piece here, I am using 1/2" (Maple) and a size 2-reverse tooth scroll saw blade. You can use anything similar and get the same results.
> 
> Begin by cutting toward the nearest sharp corner. Aim for the pointiest part of the corner. Remember to let up the pressure as you approach it so you don't overshoot the cut. This is a common mistake that beginners make. (you can go back and review lesson #4 HERE if you want to refresh yourself about not putting too much pressure on the blade and getting not over cutting.) When you reach the end of the point - STOP:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back up the saw blade slightly (perhaps a quarter of an inch or so) WITHOUT TURNING IT - simply pull the piece slightly back through the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut forward again toward the line, only this time go slightly to the LEFT of the line your just cut. Again you are going to stop as you get to your line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you are at the line, you should pivot your piece so that you can cut back to meet the tip of the point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, the little triangular piece should fall out (as indicated by the grey area in the illustration):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are then going to turn your piece so that you will be cutting in a clockwise direction and following the line to the next corner. When you get to the next corner, stop again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will then back your blade up just as you did before (approximately 1/4 of an inch or so) without turning the piece or the blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just as we did on the first corner, we are going to cut to the left of the corner and stop at the line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after the small triangle falls out, turn your piece so you can continue in a clockwise direction and continue on to the next corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue in this manner until you come around to where you started. Be sure to back off the pressure you are pushing on your saw when you are approaching the end. If you push too hard, you will have a tendency to over cut into the piece past your starting point.
> 
> For very sharp angles, there is sometimes an easier way to turn the corners - especially when you are using a very small blade. In the second set of pictures, I have a shape with a very acute angle and an obtuse angle (over 90 degrees) to each side of it. In this case, I drilled my entry hole near the obtuse angle, and began cutting from the hole to the corner of it.
> 
> When I reached the line, instead of backing up the blade and cutting a small triangle out like I did in the last example, I simply turned the piece and began following the line in a clockwise direction and continued cutting:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am able to do this because of the large angle. Depending on which size blade you are using, you should be able to turn most obtuse angles in this manner and still have a nice sharp corner. Remember when you are turning to pivot on the corner and slightly lean your piece to the back of the blade to insure that there is no forward moving while you pivot. Continue along the line until you reach the point of the acute angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you reach that point, you will once again back up your piece about 1/4" and then pivot your piece (toward the waste area)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you will back all the way into the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And from that point you will continue cutting in a clockwise direction:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this gives you a clear idea of how to cut corners. Of course, if you are cutting in a counter-clockwise direction, you will just cut the little triangle out from the opposite side and continue accordingly. Once you get the hang of the process, it will be fairly easy and come second nature to you.
> 
> You will find that as most of the time with scroll sawing, the process is a matter of judgement calls. You will learn by practicing which way of turning is best for the particular area you are at. The thing we are aiming for is to have nice, sharp defined corners without 'spin holes' which are rounded areas made from turning the blade. Crisp and clean angles will make your piece look professional and nice.
> 
> Your homework for this week is to finish cutting all the inside cuts of the frame piece provided. This will be really
> good practice for you and by the time you are finished, you should be feeling a bit more comfortable in doing the process. Next lesson we will learn how to do other types of inside cuts and later on we will learn to bevel cut the piece to make a self-framing plaque.
> 
> Below is the video that will demonstrate these three types of turns that I just explained. I think it will help clarify the steps that I showed you in the drawings above.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=1DIlEYekavc
> 
> Of course, there are other ways that you can turn too. I am sure that others will have some good input as to other methods that work well for them too. As with most of scroll sawing, there are several correct ways to do things.
> 
> I would suggest you use a board approximately 1/2" thick and a #2 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. If you have something else available, I am sure that will work fine too. Try to use the smallest blade you can and still have control and not have to work too hard moving your piece through the saw. If you have to push hard, or if your blade is wandering too much, try going up a size. You will soon get a feel for what is right for the type of wood you have.
> 
> Feel free to ask questions if there is anything that I missed here. I will be finishing up editing the video and getting it posted here as soon as it is done, so be sure to check back later. But for now, this will get you started.
> 
> Thank you again for participating in the class. I hope you are all having fun!


Never to old to learn a new trick.

Eugene , Check out Shelia's website: http://www.sheilalandrydesigns.com/
dust that scrollsaw off and have some fun


----------



## jake86

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Inside Corners and Angles*
> 
> So far we have looked at how to prepare our wood, choose a blade, cast on and off a piece and cut outside curves and corners. Now it is time we do some inside cutting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most people associate scroll sawing with cutting fretwork. At first many people don't understand that in order to cut fretwork pieces, you need to drill entry holes in the 'waste area' (or the part of the pattern that drops away when you finish your cut) and thread the blade through that drilled hole to cut out the inside piece. This is why it is so important to many scroll sawyers to have a scroll saw that uses *pinless *blades, or blades that have flat ends and attach to the scroll saw by a chuck or a screw squeezing the blade tight to hold it in place while you are cutting.
> 
> Many older and industrial saws used *pin ended blades. *. These are blades have a small pin going through the end of them and look kind of like a 't'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the blade rests in some sort of channel on the end of the arm of the scroll saw and the tension is then tightened to hold the blade in place. While this is an effective way to hold the blade in the saw, it is not always the most practical when doing decorative and delicate scroll saw work.
> 
> The pins at the end of the blades mean that in order to thread the blade through the wood, you would need a much wider entry hole in order to do so. This may be acceptable if you are doing larger pieces, such as fretwork brackets for shelves and trim work, but if you are doing smaller items such as ornaments and other delicate work, you will find that having to use pin ended blades will severely limit the scope of the work you can do. It is for that reason that I highly recommend using a saw that uses pinless blades. Most of the newer saws on the market today fall into this category.
> 
> I often am asked questions as to where to drill the entry holes in a project. While you can certainly drill them anywhere convenient in the waste area, there are usually some better choices that will minimize the time and effort in making a piece.
> 
> When I have a piece with lots of sharp corners, I like to start cutting fairly close a corner. For the same reasons that we started in a corner when doing an outside cut, I feel that it is also best to do so when making an inside cut. The place where we enter and exit our cuts sometimes makes a small bump, and I feel that by starting in an inconspicuous area near a corner, even if there is a small ridge where we enter and exit, it will be very difficult if not impossible to see.
> 
> For this lesson, I have prepared a practice pattern that has lots of sharp inside cuts. You can download the pattern at my Google Documents file here:
> 
> Lesson 7 Practice Sheet
> 
> This is part of a pattern for a self-framing plaque that I designed. It is a pattern that I sell on my site, but I enlarged it a bit so that it would be a little easier for you to practice on. For this lesson, we are only going to work on the frame of the project so I only included that part on the pattern. Next time we will be working on the inside cuts and I will have that part of the pattern for you to download. (You will need to come back for that!)
> 
> Begin by preparing the piece as I showed you in previous lessons, with blue painter's tape and then applying the pattern. (Or use your own favorite method) Cut around the perimeter of the piece so that it is a comfortable size to work with. Place a small drill bit in your drill press and drill out the holes in the waste are of the design. From the picture below you can see that I marked some suggested starting places you can drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course they don't have to be exactly where I indicated - any thing close will do.
> 
> Drill using the smallest bit that will fit your blade through it comfortably. By 'comfortably' I mean that you shouldn't have to struggle to push your blade through the hole, as this could result in bending the blade - especially if you are using a small blade. But you want to keep the entry hole as small as you can. When you are finished drilling the holes, be sure to sand the back of the plaque with some sand paper. Otherwise the bumps from the back of the drill holes will interfere with allowing your piece to sit flat on the scroll saw table.
> 
> After drilling and sanding, we are now ready to cut.
> 
> For my own piece here, I am using 1/2" (Maple) and a size 2-reverse tooth scroll saw blade. You can use anything similar and get the same results.
> 
> Begin by cutting toward the nearest sharp corner. Aim for the pointiest part of the corner. Remember to let up the pressure as you approach it so you don't overshoot the cut. This is a common mistake that beginners make. (you can go back and review lesson #4 HERE if you want to refresh yourself about not putting too much pressure on the blade and getting not over cutting.) When you reach the end of the point - STOP:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back up the saw blade slightly (perhaps a quarter of an inch or so) WITHOUT TURNING IT - simply pull the piece slightly back through the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut forward again toward the line, only this time go slightly to the LEFT of the line your just cut. Again you are going to stop as you get to your line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you are at the line, you should pivot your piece so that you can cut back to meet the tip of the point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, the little triangular piece should fall out (as indicated by the grey area in the illustration):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are then going to turn your piece so that you will be cutting in a clockwise direction and following the line to the next corner. When you get to the next corner, stop again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will then back your blade up just as you did before (approximately 1/4 of an inch or so) without turning the piece or the blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just as we did on the first corner, we are going to cut to the left of the corner and stop at the line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after the small triangle falls out, turn your piece so you can continue in a clockwise direction and continue on to the next corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue in this manner until you come around to where you started. Be sure to back off the pressure you are pushing on your saw when you are approaching the end. If you push too hard, you will have a tendency to over cut into the piece past your starting point.
> 
> For very sharp angles, there is sometimes an easier way to turn the corners - especially when you are using a very small blade. In the second set of pictures, I have a shape with a very acute angle and an obtuse angle (over 90 degrees) to each side of it. In this case, I drilled my entry hole near the obtuse angle, and began cutting from the hole to the corner of it.
> 
> When I reached the line, instead of backing up the blade and cutting a small triangle out like I did in the last example, I simply turned the piece and began following the line in a clockwise direction and continued cutting:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am able to do this because of the large angle. Depending on which size blade you are using, you should be able to turn most obtuse angles in this manner and still have a nice sharp corner. Remember when you are turning to pivot on the corner and slightly lean your piece to the back of the blade to insure that there is no forward moving while you pivot. Continue along the line until you reach the point of the acute angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you reach that point, you will once again back up your piece about 1/4" and then pivot your piece (toward the waste area)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you will back all the way into the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And from that point you will continue cutting in a clockwise direction:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this gives you a clear idea of how to cut corners. Of course, if you are cutting in a counter-clockwise direction, you will just cut the little triangle out from the opposite side and continue accordingly. Once you get the hang of the process, it will be fairly easy and come second nature to you.
> 
> You will find that as most of the time with scroll sawing, the process is a matter of judgement calls. You will learn by practicing which way of turning is best for the particular area you are at. The thing we are aiming for is to have nice, sharp defined corners without 'spin holes' which are rounded areas made from turning the blade. Crisp and clean angles will make your piece look professional and nice.
> 
> Your homework for this week is to finish cutting all the inside cuts of the frame piece provided. This will be really
> good practice for you and by the time you are finished, you should be feeling a bit more comfortable in doing the process. Next lesson we will learn how to do other types of inside cuts and later on we will learn to bevel cut the piece to make a self-framing plaque.
> 
> Below is the video that will demonstrate these three types of turns that I just explained. I think it will help clarify the steps that I showed you in the drawings above.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course, there are other ways that you can turn too. I am sure that others will have some good input as to other methods that work well for them too. As with most of scroll sawing, there are several correct ways to do things.
> 
> I would suggest you use a board approximately 1/2" thick and a #2 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. If you have something else available, I am sure that will work fine too. Try to use the smallest blade you can and still have control and not have to work too hard moving your piece through the saw. If you have to push hard, or if your blade is wandering too much, try going up a size. You will soon get a feel for what is right for the type of wood you have.
> 
> Feel free to ask questions if there is anything that I missed here. I will be finishing up editing the video and getting it posted here as soon as it is done, so be sure to check back later. But for now, this will get you started.
> 
> Thank you again for participating in the class. I hope you are all having fun!


Well Teach, I finally finished lesson 7. A little shaky in the beginning, but as I went along things started looking up. Took me a couple of weeks…..I guess I'm not to swift! I found using the slow speed on my 2 speed Delta helped keep the vibrations down and allowed me to start to get some nice sharp corners. I also found that I can now sit down and relax and have fun going "one hole @ a time". Think I can have that RR BB gun now!

Thanks,
Jake

Live long and Prosper


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Cutting Inside Corners and Angles*
> 
> So far we have looked at how to prepare our wood, choose a blade, cast on and off a piece and cut outside curves and corners. Now it is time we do some inside cutting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most people associate scroll sawing with cutting fretwork. At first many people don't understand that in order to cut fretwork pieces, you need to drill entry holes in the 'waste area' (or the part of the pattern that drops away when you finish your cut) and thread the blade through that drilled hole to cut out the inside piece. This is why it is so important to many scroll sawyers to have a scroll saw that uses *pinless *blades, or blades that have flat ends and attach to the scroll saw by a chuck or a screw squeezing the blade tight to hold it in place while you are cutting.
> 
> Many older and industrial saws used *pin ended blades. *. These are blades have a small pin going through the end of them and look kind of like a 't'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The end of the blade rests in some sort of channel on the end of the arm of the scroll saw and the tension is then tightened to hold the blade in place. While this is an effective way to hold the blade in the saw, it is not always the most practical when doing decorative and delicate scroll saw work.
> 
> The pins at the end of the blades mean that in order to thread the blade through the wood, you would need a much wider entry hole in order to do so. This may be acceptable if you are doing larger pieces, such as fretwork brackets for shelves and trim work, but if you are doing smaller items such as ornaments and other delicate work, you will find that having to use pin ended blades will severely limit the scope of the work you can do. It is for that reason that I highly recommend using a saw that uses pinless blades. Most of the newer saws on the market today fall into this category.
> 
> I often am asked questions as to where to drill the entry holes in a project. While you can certainly drill them anywhere convenient in the waste area, there are usually some better choices that will minimize the time and effort in making a piece.
> 
> When I have a piece with lots of sharp corners, I like to start cutting fairly close a corner. For the same reasons that we started in a corner when doing an outside cut, I feel that it is also best to do so when making an inside cut. The place where we enter and exit our cuts sometimes makes a small bump, and I feel that by starting in an inconspicuous area near a corner, even if there is a small ridge where we enter and exit, it will be very difficult if not impossible to see.
> 
> For this lesson, I have prepared a practice pattern that has lots of sharp inside cuts. You can download the pattern at my Google Documents file here:
> 
> Lesson 7 Practice Sheet
> 
> This is part of a pattern for a self-framing plaque that I designed. It is a pattern that I sell on my site, but I enlarged it a bit so that it would be a little easier for you to practice on. For this lesson, we are only going to work on the frame of the project so I only included that part on the pattern. Next time we will be working on the inside cuts and I will have that part of the pattern for you to download. (You will need to come back for that!)
> 
> Begin by preparing the piece as I showed you in previous lessons, with blue painter's tape and then applying the pattern. (Or use your own favorite method) Cut around the perimeter of the piece so that it is a comfortable size to work with. Place a small drill bit in your drill press and drill out the holes in the waste are of the design. From the picture below you can see that I marked some suggested starting places you can drill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course they don't have to be exactly where I indicated - any thing close will do.
> 
> Drill using the smallest bit that will fit your blade through it comfortably. By 'comfortably' I mean that you shouldn't have to struggle to push your blade through the hole, as this could result in bending the blade - especially if you are using a small blade. But you want to keep the entry hole as small as you can. When you are finished drilling the holes, be sure to sand the back of the plaque with some sand paper. Otherwise the bumps from the back of the drill holes will interfere with allowing your piece to sit flat on the scroll saw table.
> 
> After drilling and sanding, we are now ready to cut.
> 
> For my own piece here, I am using 1/2" (Maple) and a size 2-reverse tooth scroll saw blade. You can use anything similar and get the same results.
> 
> Begin by cutting toward the nearest sharp corner. Aim for the pointiest part of the corner. Remember to let up the pressure as you approach it so you don't overshoot the cut. This is a common mistake that beginners make. (you can go back and review lesson #4 HERE if you want to refresh yourself about not putting too much pressure on the blade and getting not over cutting.) When you reach the end of the point - STOP:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back up the saw blade slightly (perhaps a quarter of an inch or so) WITHOUT TURNING IT - simply pull the piece slightly back through the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now cut forward again toward the line, only this time go slightly to the LEFT of the line your just cut. Again you are going to stop as you get to your line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you are at the line, you should pivot your piece so that you can cut back to meet the tip of the point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, the little triangular piece should fall out (as indicated by the grey area in the illustration):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are then going to turn your piece so that you will be cutting in a clockwise direction and following the line to the next corner. When you get to the next corner, stop again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will then back your blade up just as you did before (approximately 1/4 of an inch or so) without turning the piece or the blade:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just as we did on the first corner, we are going to cut to the left of the corner and stop at the line:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after the small triangle falls out, turn your piece so you can continue in a clockwise direction and continue on to the next corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue in this manner until you come around to where you started. Be sure to back off the pressure you are pushing on your saw when you are approaching the end. If you push too hard, you will have a tendency to over cut into the piece past your starting point.
> 
> For very sharp angles, there is sometimes an easier way to turn the corners - especially when you are using a very small blade. In the second set of pictures, I have a shape with a very acute angle and an obtuse angle (over 90 degrees) to each side of it. In this case, I drilled my entry hole near the obtuse angle, and began cutting from the hole to the corner of it.
> 
> When I reached the line, instead of backing up the blade and cutting a small triangle out like I did in the last example, I simply turned the piece and began following the line in a clockwise direction and continued cutting:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am able to do this because of the large angle. Depending on which size blade you are using, you should be able to turn most obtuse angles in this manner and still have a nice sharp corner. Remember when you are turning to pivot on the corner and slightly lean your piece to the back of the blade to insure that there is no forward moving while you pivot. Continue along the line until you reach the point of the acute angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you reach that point, you will once again back up your piece about 1/4" and then pivot your piece (toward the waste area)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you will back all the way into the corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And from that point you will continue cutting in a clockwise direction:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this gives you a clear idea of how to cut corners. Of course, if you are cutting in a counter-clockwise direction, you will just cut the little triangle out from the opposite side and continue accordingly. Once you get the hang of the process, it will be fairly easy and come second nature to you.
> 
> You will find that as most of the time with scroll sawing, the process is a matter of judgement calls. You will learn by practicing which way of turning is best for the particular area you are at. The thing we are aiming for is to have nice, sharp defined corners without 'spin holes' which are rounded areas made from turning the blade. Crisp and clean angles will make your piece look professional and nice.
> 
> Your homework for this week is to finish cutting all the inside cuts of the frame piece provided. This will be really
> good practice for you and by the time you are finished, you should be feeling a bit more comfortable in doing the process. Next lesson we will learn how to do other types of inside cuts and later on we will learn to bevel cut the piece to make a self-framing plaque.
> 
> Below is the video that will demonstrate these three types of turns that I just explained. I think it will help clarify the steps that I showed you in the drawings above.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course, there are other ways that you can turn too. I am sure that others will have some good input as to other methods that work well for them too. As with most of scroll sawing, there are several correct ways to do things.
> 
> I would suggest you use a board approximately 1/2" thick and a #2 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. If you have something else available, I am sure that will work fine too. Try to use the smallest blade you can and still have control and not have to work too hard moving your piece through the saw. If you have to push hard, or if your blade is wandering too much, try going up a size. You will soon get a feel for what is right for the type of wood you have.
> 
> Feel free to ask questions if there is anything that I missed here. I will be finishing up editing the video and getting it posted here as soon as it is done, so be sure to check back later. But for now, this will get you started.
> 
> Thank you again for participating in the class. I hope you are all having fun!


Well Jake - I think that looks wonderful! I think that everyone is a little shaky at the beginning. I find that if I don't get to the saw for a week or so, then it takes a couple of minutes for me to "warm up" again and get the feel for things. That looks just beautiful and I am glad that you started relaxing and having fun with it. You get an "A+++++" on your homework! 

Sheila


----------



## scrollgirl

*Lesson 8 - Cutting Inside Curves and Swirls*

By now you have had some time to practice cutting inside and outside corners. While getting nice sharp corners is really important to your scroll working, one of the signatures of traditional fretwork pieces are the graceful curves and swirls that you are able to cut with the scroll saw.










In Victorian times, fretwork was cut either by hand or by using foot powered pedal saws. It was a delicate and painstaking process and took years of practice to master and accomplish.

With the introduction of better scroll saws and blades, we are now able to replicate these beautiful fretwork designs, and even take them to a higher level. Since many of the newer saws have very low vibration, it is now possible to have pinpoint control and create wonderful and intricate designs easily. In addition, the use of pinless or 'flat end' scroll saw blades allows us to cut tiny details that were never before possible. With a little practice, we can all cut these types of designs nearly effortlessly.

Because of the thin size and nature of the scroll saw blades, it is actually easier to cut a curve on the scroll saw than a straight line. Certain factors such as the direction of the grain of the wood, the thickness of the wood, and the speed of the saw can greatly affect the performance of a particular blade with a particular species of wood. There are many correct combinations of wood, blade size and speed that you can use, depending on several factors such as the amount of detail in the design and also the thickness and hardness of the wood. These are all variables that can be confusing, but as you work with more and more different types of wood and blades you will soon learn your preference and comfort level of working and learn what will work best for you. The suggestions that I give you here and also in my patterns are only base guidelines and you should feel free to use something different if you feel it works better for you.

Another thing to remember when you are cutting curves is that if you do happen to drift a bit off the line, it is very important that you correct your path gradually. Many times designs that have lots of curves are very forgiving and once the pattern paper is removed from your piece, many of your 'mistakes' will magically disappear. If your blade seems to want to follow the wood grain instead of the line, instead of making a sharp turn back into the line, gradually drift it back on course. Chances are that no one will ever notice. If this happens too often, it is very possible that the blade is too small for the piece of wood you are cutting. Simply move up a blade size and see if that will help. The larger the blade, the more stable it is and the less chance it has of following the grain instead of the line. This is particularly true when you are following along in the direction of the grain, or using a wood that has a great variance in the density of the grain from place to place.

Be kind to yourself and allow room for some error - especially when you are just starting out. Before long you will find it easier and easier to follow the line exactly.

When you are choosing a blade for a certain piece that you are cutting, you should try to choose the smallest blade possible that allows you to follow your lines correctly. This will result in nice crisp and clear corners and easier maneuverability. Remember to factor in the density, thickness and even the moisture content of the wood you are cutting when choosing a blade. Drier wood tends to cut more easily, but also can be brittle and prone to breaking. Wood with a higher moisture content can cause a blade to 'drag' and make it a bit harder to control. Plywood contains lots of glue that holds the layers of wood together. While this is beneficial as far as strength and control (since the grain is in several directions, there is much less drift caused from the grain) cutting plywood is much harder on blades and they tend to dull quicker than they do with hardwood.

As you can see, the more you are aware of these factors and understand their role in the process of scroll sawing, the easier it is to adjust your speed, blade and wood so that you can have optimal results.

Now on to the lesson:

When cutting curves and swirls, I find that it is easier to cut the inside edge of the curve first and then the outer perimeter. There is much less of a chance of breaking the piece that way, as you are not putting pressure from the inside edge of a piece that has a free standing outer edge. While many designs have swirls that go in both directions within the same cut, which make it impossible to follow this rule every single time, I find that it is good practice to try to cut the inside edge of a curve whenever it is possible.

In the sample patter I gave you for Lesson 7 (which you can download HERE) there are many nice gentle curves and swirls for you to practice on. The following drawings will show you my preferred method of cutting these types of curves and swirls.

First of all, thread the blade through the entry hole and start scrolling so you enter the line on a corner:










This will help hide any type of slight ridge that you may make from the entry and exit spot as explained in the earlier lessons.

When you get to the corner, turn your blade to the LEFT and begin cutting the inside edge of the curve as indicated by the dotted line with the arrow:










When you get to the pointed edge, do NOT turn to the right at this point. Continue cutting slightly out to the waste area and then turn your piece counter-clockwise as shown on the diagram to make a little turning pocket as I showed in the previous lessons. Remember, this is a very small turn and you should just make a small hole with enough room to align your blade up to continue on:










Now you will follow around the rest of the curved edge, arriving at the sharp edge as indicated in the drawing:










Finally, you now make a sharp corner as I showed you in the previous lesson and arrive at the entry point:










Now wasn't that easy?

I was asked previously by several of you if I always went in a clockwise direction. While that is my preferred direction that I am most comfortable with, I realize that I also need to go in the opposite direction (counter-clockwise) at times for the best way of cutting things. I believe that is why it is important that you practice going in BOTH directions so that you are comfortable with cutting each way and can feel good in any situation.

In order to help you better understand the process, I created a short video for you showing you how I cut a segment of the design similar to the one that I diagrammed above. Hopefully, with these drawings and also the video at your disposal, you will be able to have a good idea of how this process works.






As always, I hope you will take the time to practice and do some homework before going on to the next lesson. For my piece of wood, I would use a half inch thick piece of solid maple and a #2 or #3 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. Remember though that this is only a suggestion. You may want to try with some pine, plywood or other wood that you may have around your shop.










Thank you again for participating in my class. Please feel free to ask me questions or even take pictures of your practice pieces and show them off here. I hope I have helped give you a better idea of cutting curves and swirls and most of all, I hope you are really having FUN!


----------



## huntter2022

scrollgirl said:


> *Lesson 8 - Cutting Inside Curves and Swirls*
> 
> By now you have had some time to practice cutting inside and outside corners. While getting nice sharp corners is really important to your scroll working, one of the signatures of traditional fretwork pieces are the graceful curves and swirls that you are able to cut with the scroll saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Victorian times, fretwork was cut either by hand or by using foot powered pedal saws. It was a delicate and painstaking process and took years of practice to master and accomplish.
> 
> With the introduction of better scroll saws and blades, we are now able to replicate these beautiful fretwork designs, and even take them to a higher level. Since many of the newer saws have very low vibration, it is now possible to have pinpoint control and create wonderful and intricate designs easily. In addition, the use of pinless or 'flat end' scroll saw blades allows us to cut tiny details that were never before possible. With a little practice, we can all cut these types of designs nearly effortlessly.
> 
> Because of the thin size and nature of the scroll saw blades, it is actually easier to cut a curve on the scroll saw than a straight line. Certain factors such as the direction of the grain of the wood, the thickness of the wood, and the speed of the saw can greatly affect the performance of a particular blade with a particular species of wood. There are many correct combinations of wood, blade size and speed that you can use, depending on several factors such as the amount of detail in the design and also the thickness and hardness of the wood. These are all variables that can be confusing, but as you work with more and more different types of wood and blades you will soon learn your preference and comfort level of working and learn what will work best for you. The suggestions that I give you here and also in my patterns are only base guidelines and you should feel free to use something different if you feel it works better for you.
> 
> Another thing to remember when you are cutting curves is that if you do happen to drift a bit off the line, it is very important that you correct your path gradually. Many times designs that have lots of curves are very forgiving and once the pattern paper is removed from your piece, many of your 'mistakes' will magically disappear. If your blade seems to want to follow the wood grain instead of the line, instead of making a sharp turn back into the line, gradually drift it back on course. Chances are that no one will ever notice. If this happens too often, it is very possible that the blade is too small for the piece of wood you are cutting. Simply move up a blade size and see if that will help. The larger the blade, the more stable it is and the less chance it has of following the grain instead of the line. This is particularly true when you are following along in the direction of the grain, or using a wood that has a great variance in the density of the grain from place to place.
> 
> Be kind to yourself and allow room for some error - especially when you are just starting out. Before long you will find it easier and easier to follow the line exactly.
> 
> When you are choosing a blade for a certain piece that you are cutting, you should try to choose the smallest blade possible that allows you to follow your lines correctly. This will result in nice crisp and clear corners and easier maneuverability. Remember to factor in the density, thickness and even the moisture content of the wood you are cutting when choosing a blade. Drier wood tends to cut more easily, but also can be brittle and prone to breaking. Wood with a higher moisture content can cause a blade to 'drag' and make it a bit harder to control. Plywood contains lots of glue that holds the layers of wood together. While this is beneficial as far as strength and control (since the grain is in several directions, there is much less drift caused from the grain) cutting plywood is much harder on blades and they tend to dull quicker than they do with hardwood.
> 
> As you can see, the more you are aware of these factors and understand their role in the process of scroll sawing, the easier it is to adjust your speed, blade and wood so that you can have optimal results.
> 
> Now on to the lesson:
> 
> When cutting curves and swirls, I find that it is easier to cut the inside edge of the curve first and then the outer perimeter. There is much less of a chance of breaking the piece that way, as you are not putting pressure from the inside edge of a piece that has a free standing outer edge. While many designs have swirls that go in both directions within the same cut, which make it impossible to follow this rule every single time, I find that it is good practice to try to cut the inside edge of a curve whenever it is possible.
> 
> In the sample patter I gave you for Lesson 7 (which you can download HERE) there are many nice gentle curves and swirls for you to practice on. The following drawings will show you my preferred method of cutting these types of curves and swirls.
> 
> First of all, thread the blade through the entry hole and start scrolling so you enter the line on a corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This will help hide any type of slight ridge that you may make from the entry and exit spot as explained in the earlier lessons.
> 
> When you get to the corner, turn your blade to the LEFT and begin cutting the inside edge of the curve as indicated by the dotted line with the arrow:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you get to the pointed edge, do NOT turn to the right at this point. Continue cutting slightly out to the waste area and then turn your piece counter-clockwise as shown on the diagram to make a little turning pocket as I showed in the previous lessons. Remember, this is a very small turn and you should just make a small hole with enough room to align your blade up to continue on:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you will follow around the rest of the curved edge, arriving at the sharp edge as indicated in the drawing:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, you now make a sharp corner as I showed you in the previous lesson and arrive at the entry point:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now wasn't that easy?
> 
> I was asked previously by several of you if I always went in a clockwise direction. While that is my preferred direction that I am most comfortable with, I realize that I also need to go in the opposite direction (counter-clockwise) at times for the best way of cutting things. I believe that is why it is important that you practice going in BOTH directions so that you are comfortable with cutting each way and can feel good in any situation.
> 
> In order to help you better understand the process, I created a short video for you showing you how I cut a segment of the design similar to the one that I diagrammed above. Hopefully, with these drawings and also the video at your disposal, you will be able to have a good idea of how this process works.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, I hope you will take the time to practice and do some homework before going on to the next lesson. For my piece of wood, I would use a half inch thick piece of solid maple and a #2 or #3 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. Remember though that this is only a suggestion. You may want to try with some pine, plywood or other wood that you may have around your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you again for participating in my class. Please feel free to ask me questions or even take pictures of your practice pieces and show them off here. I hope I have helped give you a better idea of cutting curves and swirls and most of all, I hope you are really having FUN!


Shelia , 
You did a great job explaining a hard subject . Thank you for taking the time and sharing it with us all . Your doing a great job on the videos .

By now alot of the people have done some scrolling or have tried . pleases post any work you have done or if you have a question or a problem doing something ask . Don't sit back there and say well they will think I'm stupid or silly . Sometimes when a question is ask and another scroller explains it in a different way or even Shelia your able to understand


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Lesson 8 - Cutting Inside Curves and Swirls*
> 
> By now you have had some time to practice cutting inside and outside corners. While getting nice sharp corners is really important to your scroll working, one of the signatures of traditional fretwork pieces are the graceful curves and swirls that you are able to cut with the scroll saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Victorian times, fretwork was cut either by hand or by using foot powered pedal saws. It was a delicate and painstaking process and took years of practice to master and accomplish.
> 
> With the introduction of better scroll saws and blades, we are now able to replicate these beautiful fretwork designs, and even take them to a higher level. Since many of the newer saws have very low vibration, it is now possible to have pinpoint control and create wonderful and intricate designs easily. In addition, the use of pinless or 'flat end' scroll saw blades allows us to cut tiny details that were never before possible. With a little practice, we can all cut these types of designs nearly effortlessly.
> 
> Because of the thin size and nature of the scroll saw blades, it is actually easier to cut a curve on the scroll saw than a straight line. Certain factors such as the direction of the grain of the wood, the thickness of the wood, and the speed of the saw can greatly affect the performance of a particular blade with a particular species of wood. There are many correct combinations of wood, blade size and speed that you can use, depending on several factors such as the amount of detail in the design and also the thickness and hardness of the wood. These are all variables that can be confusing, but as you work with more and more different types of wood and blades you will soon learn your preference and comfort level of working and learn what will work best for you. The suggestions that I give you here and also in my patterns are only base guidelines and you should feel free to use something different if you feel it works better for you.
> 
> Another thing to remember when you are cutting curves is that if you do happen to drift a bit off the line, it is very important that you correct your path gradually. Many times designs that have lots of curves are very forgiving and once the pattern paper is removed from your piece, many of your 'mistakes' will magically disappear. If your blade seems to want to follow the wood grain instead of the line, instead of making a sharp turn back into the line, gradually drift it back on course. Chances are that no one will ever notice. If this happens too often, it is very possible that the blade is too small for the piece of wood you are cutting. Simply move up a blade size and see if that will help. The larger the blade, the more stable it is and the less chance it has of following the grain instead of the line. This is particularly true when you are following along in the direction of the grain, or using a wood that has a great variance in the density of the grain from place to place.
> 
> Be kind to yourself and allow room for some error - especially when you are just starting out. Before long you will find it easier and easier to follow the line exactly.
> 
> When you are choosing a blade for a certain piece that you are cutting, you should try to choose the smallest blade possible that allows you to follow your lines correctly. This will result in nice crisp and clear corners and easier maneuverability. Remember to factor in the density, thickness and even the moisture content of the wood you are cutting when choosing a blade. Drier wood tends to cut more easily, but also can be brittle and prone to breaking. Wood with a higher moisture content can cause a blade to 'drag' and make it a bit harder to control. Plywood contains lots of glue that holds the layers of wood together. While this is beneficial as far as strength and control (since the grain is in several directions, there is much less drift caused from the grain) cutting plywood is much harder on blades and they tend to dull quicker than they do with hardwood.
> 
> As you can see, the more you are aware of these factors and understand their role in the process of scroll sawing, the easier it is to adjust your speed, blade and wood so that you can have optimal results.
> 
> Now on to the lesson:
> 
> When cutting curves and swirls, I find that it is easier to cut the inside edge of the curve first and then the outer perimeter. There is much less of a chance of breaking the piece that way, as you are not putting pressure from the inside edge of a piece that has a free standing outer edge. While many designs have swirls that go in both directions within the same cut, which make it impossible to follow this rule every single time, I find that it is good practice to try to cut the inside edge of a curve whenever it is possible.
> 
> In the sample patter I gave you for Lesson 7 (which you can download HERE) there are many nice gentle curves and swirls for you to practice on. The following drawings will show you my preferred method of cutting these types of curves and swirls.
> 
> First of all, thread the blade through the entry hole and start scrolling so you enter the line on a corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This will help hide any type of slight ridge that you may make from the entry and exit spot as explained in the earlier lessons.
> 
> When you get to the corner, turn your blade to the LEFT and begin cutting the inside edge of the curve as indicated by the dotted line with the arrow:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you get to the pointed edge, do NOT turn to the right at this point. Continue cutting slightly out to the waste area and then turn your piece counter-clockwise as shown on the diagram to make a little turning pocket as I showed in the previous lessons. Remember, this is a very small turn and you should just make a small hole with enough room to align your blade up to continue on:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you will follow around the rest of the curved edge, arriving at the sharp edge as indicated in the drawing:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, you now make a sharp corner as I showed you in the previous lesson and arrive at the entry point:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now wasn't that easy?
> 
> I was asked previously by several of you if I always went in a clockwise direction. While that is my preferred direction that I am most comfortable with, I realize that I also need to go in the opposite direction (counter-clockwise) at times for the best way of cutting things. I believe that is why it is important that you practice going in BOTH directions so that you are comfortable with cutting each way and can feel good in any situation.
> 
> In order to help you better understand the process, I created a short video for you showing you how I cut a segment of the design similar to the one that I diagrammed above. Hopefully, with these drawings and also the video at your disposal, you will be able to have a good idea of how this process works.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, I hope you will take the time to practice and do some homework before going on to the next lesson. For my piece of wood, I would use a half inch thick piece of solid maple and a #2 or #3 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. Remember though that this is only a suggestion. You may want to try with some pine, plywood or other wood that you may have around your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you again for participating in my class. Please feel free to ask me questions or even take pictures of your practice pieces and show them off here. I hope I have helped give you a better idea of cutting curves and swirls and most of all, I hope you are really having FUN!


Thanks, David:
You are right in asking for people to speak up. Many times people have questions and are afraid to ask. Others may also have the same questions too and by asking them, it helps everyone. I also welcome others to add to the discussions and answer things at any time. There are many different correct ways to do things and different points of view are always helpful.

Sheila


----------



## Blondewood

scrollgirl said:


> *Lesson 8 - Cutting Inside Curves and Swirls*
> 
> By now you have had some time to practice cutting inside and outside corners. While getting nice sharp corners is really important to your scroll working, one of the signatures of traditional fretwork pieces are the graceful curves and swirls that you are able to cut with the scroll saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Victorian times, fretwork was cut either by hand or by using foot powered pedal saws. It was a delicate and painstaking process and took years of practice to master and accomplish.
> 
> With the introduction of better scroll saws and blades, we are now able to replicate these beautiful fretwork designs, and even take them to a higher level. Since many of the newer saws have very low vibration, it is now possible to have pinpoint control and create wonderful and intricate designs easily. In addition, the use of pinless or 'flat end' scroll saw blades allows us to cut tiny details that were never before possible. With a little practice, we can all cut these types of designs nearly effortlessly.
> 
> Because of the thin size and nature of the scroll saw blades, it is actually easier to cut a curve on the scroll saw than a straight line. Certain factors such as the direction of the grain of the wood, the thickness of the wood, and the speed of the saw can greatly affect the performance of a particular blade with a particular species of wood. There are many correct combinations of wood, blade size and speed that you can use, depending on several factors such as the amount of detail in the design and also the thickness and hardness of the wood. These are all variables that can be confusing, but as you work with more and more different types of wood and blades you will soon learn your preference and comfort level of working and learn what will work best for you. The suggestions that I give you here and also in my patterns are only base guidelines and you should feel free to use something different if you feel it works better for you.
> 
> Another thing to remember when you are cutting curves is that if you do happen to drift a bit off the line, it is very important that you correct your path gradually. Many times designs that have lots of curves are very forgiving and once the pattern paper is removed from your piece, many of your 'mistakes' will magically disappear. If your blade seems to want to follow the wood grain instead of the line, instead of making a sharp turn back into the line, gradually drift it back on course. Chances are that no one will ever notice. If this happens too often, it is very possible that the blade is too small for the piece of wood you are cutting. Simply move up a blade size and see if that will help. The larger the blade, the more stable it is and the less chance it has of following the grain instead of the line. This is particularly true when you are following along in the direction of the grain, or using a wood that has a great variance in the density of the grain from place to place.
> 
> Be kind to yourself and allow room for some error - especially when you are just starting out. Before long you will find it easier and easier to follow the line exactly.
> 
> When you are choosing a blade for a certain piece that you are cutting, you should try to choose the smallest blade possible that allows you to follow your lines correctly. This will result in nice crisp and clear corners and easier maneuverability. Remember to factor in the density, thickness and even the moisture content of the wood you are cutting when choosing a blade. Drier wood tends to cut more easily, but also can be brittle and prone to breaking. Wood with a higher moisture content can cause a blade to 'drag' and make it a bit harder to control. Plywood contains lots of glue that holds the layers of wood together. While this is beneficial as far as strength and control (since the grain is in several directions, there is much less drift caused from the grain) cutting plywood is much harder on blades and they tend to dull quicker than they do with hardwood.
> 
> As you can see, the more you are aware of these factors and understand their role in the process of scroll sawing, the easier it is to adjust your speed, blade and wood so that you can have optimal results.
> 
> Now on to the lesson:
> 
> When cutting curves and swirls, I find that it is easier to cut the inside edge of the curve first and then the outer perimeter. There is much less of a chance of breaking the piece that way, as you are not putting pressure from the inside edge of a piece that has a free standing outer edge. While many designs have swirls that go in both directions within the same cut, which make it impossible to follow this rule every single time, I find that it is good practice to try to cut the inside edge of a curve whenever it is possible.
> 
> In the sample patter I gave you for Lesson 7 (which you can download HERE) there are many nice gentle curves and swirls for you to practice on. The following drawings will show you my preferred method of cutting these types of curves and swirls.
> 
> First of all, thread the blade through the entry hole and start scrolling so you enter the line on a corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This will help hide any type of slight ridge that you may make from the entry and exit spot as explained in the earlier lessons.
> 
> When you get to the corner, turn your blade to the LEFT and begin cutting the inside edge of the curve as indicated by the dotted line with the arrow:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you get to the pointed edge, do NOT turn to the right at this point. Continue cutting slightly out to the waste area and then turn your piece counter-clockwise as shown on the diagram to make a little turning pocket as I showed in the previous lessons. Remember, this is a very small turn and you should just make a small hole with enough room to align your blade up to continue on:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you will follow around the rest of the curved edge, arriving at the sharp edge as indicated in the drawing:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, you now make a sharp corner as I showed you in the previous lesson and arrive at the entry point:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now wasn't that easy?
> 
> I was asked previously by several of you if I always went in a clockwise direction. While that is my preferred direction that I am most comfortable with, I realize that I also need to go in the opposite direction (counter-clockwise) at times for the best way of cutting things. I believe that is why it is important that you practice going in BOTH directions so that you are comfortable with cutting each way and can feel good in any situation.
> 
> In order to help you better understand the process, I created a short video for you showing you how I cut a segment of the design similar to the one that I diagrammed above. Hopefully, with these drawings and also the video at your disposal, you will be able to have a good idea of how this process works.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, I hope you will take the time to practice and do some homework before going on to the next lesson. For my piece of wood, I would use a half inch thick piece of solid maple and a #2 or #3 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. Remember though that this is only a suggestion. You may want to try with some pine, plywood or other wood that you may have around your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you again for participating in my class. Please feel free to ask me questions or even take pictures of your practice pieces and show them off here. I hope I have helped give you a better idea of cutting curves and swirls and most of all, I hope you are really having FUN!


Hi Sheila,
Another awesome and helpful video and tutorial. Thank you. You're helping me improve my work and skillset. I'm gaining more confidence and cutting pieces I wouldn't have dared to before.

I wanted to share a tip with the group. You've taught us to make the little circle cut out by spinning the workpiece to facillitate sharp corners. I can't seem to spin fast enough and make a bigger hole than I'd like. So I go a 1/16th or 1/8th of an inch past where I should turn the corner, back the blade up about an 1/8th of an inch and cut out a little curve of waste that gives the blade room to turn the corner. Hope that makes sense. I think the time involed is about the same so the only advantage is that if you have a bum shoulder or some problem that prevents you from turning the piece in a full cirlce this might help.

We had discussed my excessive blade breakage before and you recommended wrapping the project with packing tape. The culprit that time was the warped wood, so I only used packing tape once. I kept thinking about it though and what I did today was skip the masking tape and used the packing tape instead and glued the pattern to that. It made the blade last a lot longer, in fact it hasn't broken after todays cutting. I didn't use it before because I was too lazy for the extra step, but this way it works and there's no extra step. Now what to do with all the masking tape I bought? lol


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Lesson 8 - Cutting Inside Curves and Swirls*
> 
> By now you have had some time to practice cutting inside and outside corners. While getting nice sharp corners is really important to your scroll working, one of the signatures of traditional fretwork pieces are the graceful curves and swirls that you are able to cut with the scroll saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Victorian times, fretwork was cut either by hand or by using foot powered pedal saws. It was a delicate and painstaking process and took years of practice to master and accomplish.
> 
> With the introduction of better scroll saws and blades, we are now able to replicate these beautiful fretwork designs, and even take them to a higher level. Since many of the newer saws have very low vibration, it is now possible to have pinpoint control and create wonderful and intricate designs easily. In addition, the use of pinless or 'flat end' scroll saw blades allows us to cut tiny details that were never before possible. With a little practice, we can all cut these types of designs nearly effortlessly.
> 
> Because of the thin size and nature of the scroll saw blades, it is actually easier to cut a curve on the scroll saw than a straight line. Certain factors such as the direction of the grain of the wood, the thickness of the wood, and the speed of the saw can greatly affect the performance of a particular blade with a particular species of wood. There are many correct combinations of wood, blade size and speed that you can use, depending on several factors such as the amount of detail in the design and also the thickness and hardness of the wood. These are all variables that can be confusing, but as you work with more and more different types of wood and blades you will soon learn your preference and comfort level of working and learn what will work best for you. The suggestions that I give you here and also in my patterns are only base guidelines and you should feel free to use something different if you feel it works better for you.
> 
> Another thing to remember when you are cutting curves is that if you do happen to drift a bit off the line, it is very important that you correct your path gradually. Many times designs that have lots of curves are very forgiving and once the pattern paper is removed from your piece, many of your 'mistakes' will magically disappear. If your blade seems to want to follow the wood grain instead of the line, instead of making a sharp turn back into the line, gradually drift it back on course. Chances are that no one will ever notice. If this happens too often, it is very possible that the blade is too small for the piece of wood you are cutting. Simply move up a blade size and see if that will help. The larger the blade, the more stable it is and the less chance it has of following the grain instead of the line. This is particularly true when you are following along in the direction of the grain, or using a wood that has a great variance in the density of the grain from place to place.
> 
> Be kind to yourself and allow room for some error - especially when you are just starting out. Before long you will find it easier and easier to follow the line exactly.
> 
> When you are choosing a blade for a certain piece that you are cutting, you should try to choose the smallest blade possible that allows you to follow your lines correctly. This will result in nice crisp and clear corners and easier maneuverability. Remember to factor in the density, thickness and even the moisture content of the wood you are cutting when choosing a blade. Drier wood tends to cut more easily, but also can be brittle and prone to breaking. Wood with a higher moisture content can cause a blade to 'drag' and make it a bit harder to control. Plywood contains lots of glue that holds the layers of wood together. While this is beneficial as far as strength and control (since the grain is in several directions, there is much less drift caused from the grain) cutting plywood is much harder on blades and they tend to dull quicker than they do with hardwood.
> 
> As you can see, the more you are aware of these factors and understand their role in the process of scroll sawing, the easier it is to adjust your speed, blade and wood so that you can have optimal results.
> 
> Now on to the lesson:
> 
> When cutting curves and swirls, I find that it is easier to cut the inside edge of the curve first and then the outer perimeter. There is much less of a chance of breaking the piece that way, as you are not putting pressure from the inside edge of a piece that has a free standing outer edge. While many designs have swirls that go in both directions within the same cut, which make it impossible to follow this rule every single time, I find that it is good practice to try to cut the inside edge of a curve whenever it is possible.
> 
> In the sample patter I gave you for Lesson 7 (which you can download HERE) there are many nice gentle curves and swirls for you to practice on. The following drawings will show you my preferred method of cutting these types of curves and swirls.
> 
> First of all, thread the blade through the entry hole and start scrolling so you enter the line on a corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This will help hide any type of slight ridge that you may make from the entry and exit spot as explained in the earlier lessons.
> 
> When you get to the corner, turn your blade to the LEFT and begin cutting the inside edge of the curve as indicated by the dotted line with the arrow:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you get to the pointed edge, do NOT turn to the right at this point. Continue cutting slightly out to the waste area and then turn your piece counter-clockwise as shown on the diagram to make a little turning pocket as I showed in the previous lessons. Remember, this is a very small turn and you should just make a small hole with enough room to align your blade up to continue on:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you will follow around the rest of the curved edge, arriving at the sharp edge as indicated in the drawing:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, you now make a sharp corner as I showed you in the previous lesson and arrive at the entry point:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now wasn't that easy?
> 
> I was asked previously by several of you if I always went in a clockwise direction. While that is my preferred direction that I am most comfortable with, I realize that I also need to go in the opposite direction (counter-clockwise) at times for the best way of cutting things. I believe that is why it is important that you practice going in BOTH directions so that you are comfortable with cutting each way and can feel good in any situation.
> 
> In order to help you better understand the process, I created a short video for you showing you how I cut a segment of the design similar to the one that I diagrammed above. Hopefully, with these drawings and also the video at your disposal, you will be able to have a good idea of how this process works.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, I hope you will take the time to practice and do some homework before going on to the next lesson. For my piece of wood, I would use a half inch thick piece of solid maple and a #2 or #3 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. Remember though that this is only a suggestion. You may want to try with some pine, plywood or other wood that you may have around your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you again for participating in my class. Please feel free to ask me questions or even take pictures of your practice pieces and show them off here. I hope I have helped give you a better idea of cutting curves and swirls and most of all, I hope you are really having FUN!


I am really happy to hear that the classes are helpful Vicki. 

I also like your idea about your way of turning. That would also work well. Some folks drill tiny holes right at the corners in the waste areas too and that gives them room to turn without having to spin around. I think they are all effective ways to make nice sharp corners and I appreciate you sharing your favorite way. I am sure many will want to try that too.

As far as the taping goes - don't throw out the masking tape yet. Up until April I used to use packaging tape exclusively, and both my partner and I have tried putting it on the piece first and then gluing the pattern over it. I did find that it helped with burning and blade life, but sometimes it was difficult to remove. On really delicate pieces you have to be very careful not to break pieces when removing it because it sticks too much at times.

May I suggest using the masking tape first, and then applying the pattern and if you feel that the need, then add the clear tape on top? This seems like a lot, but when I used only clear tape, there were times when the wood was extra hard or for some reason still burned and I wound up putting the tape on both the top and the bottom of the piece before cutting. This also helped a lot and since you have the extra tape, it may be worth giving it a try.

Thank you so much for the input. If you think of anything else, you know where to find me. 

Sheila


----------



## Bill42

scrollgirl said:


> *Lesson 8 - Cutting Inside Curves and Swirls*
> 
> By now you have had some time to practice cutting inside and outside corners. While getting nice sharp corners is really important to your scroll working, one of the signatures of traditional fretwork pieces are the graceful curves and swirls that you are able to cut with the scroll saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Victorian times, fretwork was cut either by hand or by using foot powered pedal saws. It was a delicate and painstaking process and took years of practice to master and accomplish.
> 
> With the introduction of better scroll saws and blades, we are now able to replicate these beautiful fretwork designs, and even take them to a higher level. Since many of the newer saws have very low vibration, it is now possible to have pinpoint control and create wonderful and intricate designs easily. In addition, the use of pinless or 'flat end' scroll saw blades allows us to cut tiny details that were never before possible. With a little practice, we can all cut these types of designs nearly effortlessly.
> 
> Because of the thin size and nature of the scroll saw blades, it is actually easier to cut a curve on the scroll saw than a straight line. Certain factors such as the direction of the grain of the wood, the thickness of the wood, and the speed of the saw can greatly affect the performance of a particular blade with a particular species of wood. There are many correct combinations of wood, blade size and speed that you can use, depending on several factors such as the amount of detail in the design and also the thickness and hardness of the wood. These are all variables that can be confusing, but as you work with more and more different types of wood and blades you will soon learn your preference and comfort level of working and learn what will work best for you. The suggestions that I give you here and also in my patterns are only base guidelines and you should feel free to use something different if you feel it works better for you.
> 
> Another thing to remember when you are cutting curves is that if you do happen to drift a bit off the line, it is very important that you correct your path gradually. Many times designs that have lots of curves are very forgiving and once the pattern paper is removed from your piece, many of your 'mistakes' will magically disappear. If your blade seems to want to follow the wood grain instead of the line, instead of making a sharp turn back into the line, gradually drift it back on course. Chances are that no one will ever notice. If this happens too often, it is very possible that the blade is too small for the piece of wood you are cutting. Simply move up a blade size and see if that will help. The larger the blade, the more stable it is and the less chance it has of following the grain instead of the line. This is particularly true when you are following along in the direction of the grain, or using a wood that has a great variance in the density of the grain from place to place.
> 
> Be kind to yourself and allow room for some error - especially when you are just starting out. Before long you will find it easier and easier to follow the line exactly.
> 
> When you are choosing a blade for a certain piece that you are cutting, you should try to choose the smallest blade possible that allows you to follow your lines correctly. This will result in nice crisp and clear corners and easier maneuverability. Remember to factor in the density, thickness and even the moisture content of the wood you are cutting when choosing a blade. Drier wood tends to cut more easily, but also can be brittle and prone to breaking. Wood with a higher moisture content can cause a blade to 'drag' and make it a bit harder to control. Plywood contains lots of glue that holds the layers of wood together. While this is beneficial as far as strength and control (since the grain is in several directions, there is much less drift caused from the grain) cutting plywood is much harder on blades and they tend to dull quicker than they do with hardwood.
> 
> As you can see, the more you are aware of these factors and understand their role in the process of scroll sawing, the easier it is to adjust your speed, blade and wood so that you can have optimal results.
> 
> Now on to the lesson:
> 
> When cutting curves and swirls, I find that it is easier to cut the inside edge of the curve first and then the outer perimeter. There is much less of a chance of breaking the piece that way, as you are not putting pressure from the inside edge of a piece that has a free standing outer edge. While many designs have swirls that go in both directions within the same cut, which make it impossible to follow this rule every single time, I find that it is good practice to try to cut the inside edge of a curve whenever it is possible.
> 
> In the sample patter I gave you for Lesson 7 (which you can download HERE) there are many nice gentle curves and swirls for you to practice on. The following drawings will show you my preferred method of cutting these types of curves and swirls.
> 
> First of all, thread the blade through the entry hole and start scrolling so you enter the line on a corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This will help hide any type of slight ridge that you may make from the entry and exit spot as explained in the earlier lessons.
> 
> When you get to the corner, turn your blade to the LEFT and begin cutting the inside edge of the curve as indicated by the dotted line with the arrow:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you get to the pointed edge, do NOT turn to the right at this point. Continue cutting slightly out to the waste area and then turn your piece counter-clockwise as shown on the diagram to make a little turning pocket as I showed in the previous lessons. Remember, this is a very small turn and you should just make a small hole with enough room to align your blade up to continue on:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you will follow around the rest of the curved edge, arriving at the sharp edge as indicated in the drawing:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, you now make a sharp corner as I showed you in the previous lesson and arrive at the entry point:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now wasn't that easy?
> 
> I was asked previously by several of you if I always went in a clockwise direction. While that is my preferred direction that I am most comfortable with, I realize that I also need to go in the opposite direction (counter-clockwise) at times for the best way of cutting things. I believe that is why it is important that you practice going in BOTH directions so that you are comfortable with cutting each way and can feel good in any situation.
> 
> In order to help you better understand the process, I created a short video for you showing you how I cut a segment of the design similar to the one that I diagrammed above. Hopefully, with these drawings and also the video at your disposal, you will be able to have a good idea of how this process works.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, I hope you will take the time to practice and do some homework before going on to the next lesson. For my piece of wood, I would use a half inch thick piece of solid maple and a #2 or #3 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. Remember though that this is only a suggestion. You may want to try with some pine, plywood or other wood that you may have around your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you again for participating in my class. Please feel free to ask me questions or even take pictures of your practice pieces and show them off here. I hope I have helped give you a better idea of cutting curves and swirls and most of all, I hope you are really having FUN!


I have been enjoying learning from the lessons but I have run into a problem. I have found that I can not cut a small circle. I will try to describe what happens. I am also using an excalber ex-21. I have found that on my saw that if I raise the blade up to the top and lay a ruler at the back of the blade then push the blade down I end up with an 1/8 inch gap at the back of the blade. So when trying to make a turn as soon as the back of the blade comes into contact with the wood the blade pushes the pattern back then when the blade comes up it caused an 1/8 inch cut into the pattern. Is this just me or is ther a problem with the saw? Does your saw have this same front to back drift?


----------



## SCR0LL3R

scrollgirl said:


> *Lesson 8 - Cutting Inside Curves and Swirls*
> 
> By now you have had some time to practice cutting inside and outside corners. While getting nice sharp corners is really important to your scroll working, one of the signatures of traditional fretwork pieces are the graceful curves and swirls that you are able to cut with the scroll saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Victorian times, fretwork was cut either by hand or by using foot powered pedal saws. It was a delicate and painstaking process and took years of practice to master and accomplish.
> 
> With the introduction of better scroll saws and blades, we are now able to replicate these beautiful fretwork designs, and even take them to a higher level. Since many of the newer saws have very low vibration, it is now possible to have pinpoint control and create wonderful and intricate designs easily. In addition, the use of pinless or 'flat end' scroll saw blades allows us to cut tiny details that were never before possible. With a little practice, we can all cut these types of designs nearly effortlessly.
> 
> Because of the thin size and nature of the scroll saw blades, it is actually easier to cut a curve on the scroll saw than a straight line. Certain factors such as the direction of the grain of the wood, the thickness of the wood, and the speed of the saw can greatly affect the performance of a particular blade with a particular species of wood. There are many correct combinations of wood, blade size and speed that you can use, depending on several factors such as the amount of detail in the design and also the thickness and hardness of the wood. These are all variables that can be confusing, but as you work with more and more different types of wood and blades you will soon learn your preference and comfort level of working and learn what will work best for you. The suggestions that I give you here and also in my patterns are only base guidelines and you should feel free to use something different if you feel it works better for you.
> 
> Another thing to remember when you are cutting curves is that if you do happen to drift a bit off the line, it is very important that you correct your path gradually. Many times designs that have lots of curves are very forgiving and once the pattern paper is removed from your piece, many of your 'mistakes' will magically disappear. If your blade seems to want to follow the wood grain instead of the line, instead of making a sharp turn back into the line, gradually drift it back on course. Chances are that no one will ever notice. If this happens too often, it is very possible that the blade is too small for the piece of wood you are cutting. Simply move up a blade size and see if that will help. The larger the blade, the more stable it is and the less chance it has of following the grain instead of the line. This is particularly true when you are following along in the direction of the grain, or using a wood that has a great variance in the density of the grain from place to place.
> 
> Be kind to yourself and allow room for some error - especially when you are just starting out. Before long you will find it easier and easier to follow the line exactly.
> 
> When you are choosing a blade for a certain piece that you are cutting, you should try to choose the smallest blade possible that allows you to follow your lines correctly. This will result in nice crisp and clear corners and easier maneuverability. Remember to factor in the density, thickness and even the moisture content of the wood you are cutting when choosing a blade. Drier wood tends to cut more easily, but also can be brittle and prone to breaking. Wood with a higher moisture content can cause a blade to 'drag' and make it a bit harder to control. Plywood contains lots of glue that holds the layers of wood together. While this is beneficial as far as strength and control (since the grain is in several directions, there is much less drift caused from the grain) cutting plywood is much harder on blades and they tend to dull quicker than they do with hardwood.
> 
> As you can see, the more you are aware of these factors and understand their role in the process of scroll sawing, the easier it is to adjust your speed, blade and wood so that you can have optimal results.
> 
> Now on to the lesson:
> 
> When cutting curves and swirls, I find that it is easier to cut the inside edge of the curve first and then the outer perimeter. There is much less of a chance of breaking the piece that way, as you are not putting pressure from the inside edge of a piece that has a free standing outer edge. While many designs have swirls that go in both directions within the same cut, which make it impossible to follow this rule every single time, I find that it is good practice to try to cut the inside edge of a curve whenever it is possible.
> 
> In the sample patter I gave you for Lesson 7 (which you can download HERE) there are many nice gentle curves and swirls for you to practice on. The following drawings will show you my preferred method of cutting these types of curves and swirls.
> 
> First of all, thread the blade through the entry hole and start scrolling so you enter the line on a corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This will help hide any type of slight ridge that you may make from the entry and exit spot as explained in the earlier lessons.
> 
> When you get to the corner, turn your blade to the LEFT and begin cutting the inside edge of the curve as indicated by the dotted line with the arrow:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you get to the pointed edge, do NOT turn to the right at this point. Continue cutting slightly out to the waste area and then turn your piece counter-clockwise as shown on the diagram to make a little turning pocket as I showed in the previous lessons. Remember, this is a very small turn and you should just make a small hole with enough room to align your blade up to continue on:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you will follow around the rest of the curved edge, arriving at the sharp edge as indicated in the drawing:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, you now make a sharp corner as I showed you in the previous lesson and arrive at the entry point:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now wasn't that easy?
> 
> I was asked previously by several of you if I always went in a clockwise direction. While that is my preferred direction that I am most comfortable with, I realize that I also need to go in the opposite direction (counter-clockwise) at times for the best way of cutting things. I believe that is why it is important that you practice going in BOTH directions so that you are comfortable with cutting each way and can feel good in any situation.
> 
> In order to help you better understand the process, I created a short video for you showing you how I cut a segment of the design similar to the one that I diagrammed above. Hopefully, with these drawings and also the video at your disposal, you will be able to have a good idea of how this process works.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=-w_R1rA59c4
> 
> As always, I hope you will take the time to practice and do some homework before going on to the next lesson. For my piece of wood, I would use a half inch thick piece of solid maple and a #2 or #3 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. Remember though that this is only a suggestion. You may want to try with some pine, plywood or other wood that you may have around your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you again for participating in my class. Please feel free to ask me questions or even take pictures of your practice pieces and show them off here. I hope I have helped give you a better idea of cutting curves and swirls and most of all, I hope you are really having FUN!


The front-to back motion of the blade can be adjusted on the Excalibur. I'll post a link to an article that explains how to do it. Before you follow the instructions, I would like to mention a couple points that weren't talked about in it.

*#1 *Set the upper arm so that it is parallel to the table using the knob at the back of the saw. This arm is often referred to as a tension knob because it can be used to change tension after mounting a blade but this term is a little misleading because as soon as you unattached and re-attach one end of the blade, the tension will be back to normal only your upper arm will be slightly lower or higher than before depending on which way you turned the knob. You should rarely, if ever, need to use the knob for tension adjustments. but if you do use it, be sure to set the upper arm back to parallel afterwards. The knob can move on it's own at times when not tensioned so be sure to keep an eye on it.

The vibration of the saw and front-to-back motion of the blade are minimized at this point. Also when you make the adjustment that the article below explains, the front-to-back motion will only be minimized in the position that you had the upper arm in when you made the adjustment.

*#2* When adjusting the motor as shown in the article, you don't need to run the saw to see the blade motion. You can simply use a slotted screwdriver to turn the shaft of the motor. This way you bget a better view of the motion of the blade.

Here is the article (scroll down to the bottom of the page): http://scrollsaws.com/SawReviews/excalibar_tune_up.htm

If you still have problems after doing this, you may have a little side-to-side movement as well which I can help you with as well if required. This movement would be very slight and not nearly as annoying as the front-to-back.

edit: If you bought your saw from Seyco, this adjustment is done in house before shipping.


----------



## Bill42

scrollgirl said:


> *Lesson 8 - Cutting Inside Curves and Swirls*
> 
> By now you have had some time to practice cutting inside and outside corners. While getting nice sharp corners is really important to your scroll working, one of the signatures of traditional fretwork pieces are the graceful curves and swirls that you are able to cut with the scroll saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Victorian times, fretwork was cut either by hand or by using foot powered pedal saws. It was a delicate and painstaking process and took years of practice to master and accomplish.
> 
> With the introduction of better scroll saws and blades, we are now able to replicate these beautiful fretwork designs, and even take them to a higher level. Since many of the newer saws have very low vibration, it is now possible to have pinpoint control and create wonderful and intricate designs easily. In addition, the use of pinless or 'flat end' scroll saw blades allows us to cut tiny details that were never before possible. With a little practice, we can all cut these types of designs nearly effortlessly.
> 
> Because of the thin size and nature of the scroll saw blades, it is actually easier to cut a curve on the scroll saw than a straight line. Certain factors such as the direction of the grain of the wood, the thickness of the wood, and the speed of the saw can greatly affect the performance of a particular blade with a particular species of wood. There are many correct combinations of wood, blade size and speed that you can use, depending on several factors such as the amount of detail in the design and also the thickness and hardness of the wood. These are all variables that can be confusing, but as you work with more and more different types of wood and blades you will soon learn your preference and comfort level of working and learn what will work best for you. The suggestions that I give you here and also in my patterns are only base guidelines and you should feel free to use something different if you feel it works better for you.
> 
> Another thing to remember when you are cutting curves is that if you do happen to drift a bit off the line, it is very important that you correct your path gradually. Many times designs that have lots of curves are very forgiving and once the pattern paper is removed from your piece, many of your 'mistakes' will magically disappear. If your blade seems to want to follow the wood grain instead of the line, instead of making a sharp turn back into the line, gradually drift it back on course. Chances are that no one will ever notice. If this happens too often, it is very possible that the blade is too small for the piece of wood you are cutting. Simply move up a blade size and see if that will help. The larger the blade, the more stable it is and the less chance it has of following the grain instead of the line. This is particularly true when you are following along in the direction of the grain, or using a wood that has a great variance in the density of the grain from place to place.
> 
> Be kind to yourself and allow room for some error - especially when you are just starting out. Before long you will find it easier and easier to follow the line exactly.
> 
> When you are choosing a blade for a certain piece that you are cutting, you should try to choose the smallest blade possible that allows you to follow your lines correctly. This will result in nice crisp and clear corners and easier maneuverability. Remember to factor in the density, thickness and even the moisture content of the wood you are cutting when choosing a blade. Drier wood tends to cut more easily, but also can be brittle and prone to breaking. Wood with a higher moisture content can cause a blade to 'drag' and make it a bit harder to control. Plywood contains lots of glue that holds the layers of wood together. While this is beneficial as far as strength and control (since the grain is in several directions, there is much less drift caused from the grain) cutting plywood is much harder on blades and they tend to dull quicker than they do with hardwood.
> 
> As you can see, the more you are aware of these factors and understand their role in the process of scroll sawing, the easier it is to adjust your speed, blade and wood so that you can have optimal results.
> 
> Now on to the lesson:
> 
> When cutting curves and swirls, I find that it is easier to cut the inside edge of the curve first and then the outer perimeter. There is much less of a chance of breaking the piece that way, as you are not putting pressure from the inside edge of a piece that has a free standing outer edge. While many designs have swirls that go in both directions within the same cut, which make it impossible to follow this rule every single time, I find that it is good practice to try to cut the inside edge of a curve whenever it is possible.
> 
> In the sample patter I gave you for Lesson 7 (which you can download HERE) there are many nice gentle curves and swirls for you to practice on. The following drawings will show you my preferred method of cutting these types of curves and swirls.
> 
> First of all, thread the blade through the entry hole and start scrolling so you enter the line on a corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This will help hide any type of slight ridge that you may make from the entry and exit spot as explained in the earlier lessons.
> 
> When you get to the corner, turn your blade to the LEFT and begin cutting the inside edge of the curve as indicated by the dotted line with the arrow:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you get to the pointed edge, do NOT turn to the right at this point. Continue cutting slightly out to the waste area and then turn your piece counter-clockwise as shown on the diagram to make a little turning pocket as I showed in the previous lessons. Remember, this is a very small turn and you should just make a small hole with enough room to align your blade up to continue on:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you will follow around the rest of the curved edge, arriving at the sharp edge as indicated in the drawing:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, you now make a sharp corner as I showed you in the previous lesson and arrive at the entry point:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now wasn't that easy?
> 
> I was asked previously by several of you if I always went in a clockwise direction. While that is my preferred direction that I am most comfortable with, I realize that I also need to go in the opposite direction (counter-clockwise) at times for the best way of cutting things. I believe that is why it is important that you practice going in BOTH directions so that you are comfortable with cutting each way and can feel good in any situation.
> 
> In order to help you better understand the process, I created a short video for you showing you how I cut a segment of the design similar to the one that I diagrammed above. Hopefully, with these drawings and also the video at your disposal, you will be able to have a good idea of how this process works.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, I hope you will take the time to practice and do some homework before going on to the next lesson. For my piece of wood, I would use a half inch thick piece of solid maple and a #2 or #3 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. Remember though that this is only a suggestion. You may want to try with some pine, plywood or other wood that you may have around your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you again for participating in my class. Please feel free to ask me questions or even take pictures of your practice pieces and show them off here. I hope I have helped give you a better idea of cutting curves and swirls and most of all, I hope you are really having FUN!


Thank you Keith. I did buy my saw from Seyco but mine was not set as I had to turn the moror about a third of a turn from where it was set. Your info was dead on right thank you.


----------



## BilltheDiver

scrollgirl said:


> *Lesson 8 - Cutting Inside Curves and Swirls*
> 
> By now you have had some time to practice cutting inside and outside corners. While getting nice sharp corners is really important to your scroll working, one of the signatures of traditional fretwork pieces are the graceful curves and swirls that you are able to cut with the scroll saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Victorian times, fretwork was cut either by hand or by using foot powered pedal saws. It was a delicate and painstaking process and took years of practice to master and accomplish.
> 
> With the introduction of better scroll saws and blades, we are now able to replicate these beautiful fretwork designs, and even take them to a higher level. Since many of the newer saws have very low vibration, it is now possible to have pinpoint control and create wonderful and intricate designs easily. In addition, the use of pinless or 'flat end' scroll saw blades allows us to cut tiny details that were never before possible. With a little practice, we can all cut these types of designs nearly effortlessly.
> 
> Because of the thin size and nature of the scroll saw blades, it is actually easier to cut a curve on the scroll saw than a straight line. Certain factors such as the direction of the grain of the wood, the thickness of the wood, and the speed of the saw can greatly affect the performance of a particular blade with a particular species of wood. There are many correct combinations of wood, blade size and speed that you can use, depending on several factors such as the amount of detail in the design and also the thickness and hardness of the wood. These are all variables that can be confusing, but as you work with more and more different types of wood and blades you will soon learn your preference and comfort level of working and learn what will work best for you. The suggestions that I give you here and also in my patterns are only base guidelines and you should feel free to use something different if you feel it works better for you.
> 
> Another thing to remember when you are cutting curves is that if you do happen to drift a bit off the line, it is very important that you correct your path gradually. Many times designs that have lots of curves are very forgiving and once the pattern paper is removed from your piece, many of your 'mistakes' will magically disappear. If your blade seems to want to follow the wood grain instead of the line, instead of making a sharp turn back into the line, gradually drift it back on course. Chances are that no one will ever notice. If this happens too often, it is very possible that the blade is too small for the piece of wood you are cutting. Simply move up a blade size and see if that will help. The larger the blade, the more stable it is and the less chance it has of following the grain instead of the line. This is particularly true when you are following along in the direction of the grain, or using a wood that has a great variance in the density of the grain from place to place.
> 
> Be kind to yourself and allow room for some error - especially when you are just starting out. Before long you will find it easier and easier to follow the line exactly.
> 
> When you are choosing a blade for a certain piece that you are cutting, you should try to choose the smallest blade possible that allows you to follow your lines correctly. This will result in nice crisp and clear corners and easier maneuverability. Remember to factor in the density, thickness and even the moisture content of the wood you are cutting when choosing a blade. Drier wood tends to cut more easily, but also can be brittle and prone to breaking. Wood with a higher moisture content can cause a blade to 'drag' and make it a bit harder to control. Plywood contains lots of glue that holds the layers of wood together. While this is beneficial as far as strength and control (since the grain is in several directions, there is much less drift caused from the grain) cutting plywood is much harder on blades and they tend to dull quicker than they do with hardwood.
> 
> As you can see, the more you are aware of these factors and understand their role in the process of scroll sawing, the easier it is to adjust your speed, blade and wood so that you can have optimal results.
> 
> Now on to the lesson:
> 
> When cutting curves and swirls, I find that it is easier to cut the inside edge of the curve first and then the outer perimeter. There is much less of a chance of breaking the piece that way, as you are not putting pressure from the inside edge of a piece that has a free standing outer edge. While many designs have swirls that go in both directions within the same cut, which make it impossible to follow this rule every single time, I find that it is good practice to try to cut the inside edge of a curve whenever it is possible.
> 
> In the sample patter I gave you for Lesson 7 (which you can download HERE) there are many nice gentle curves and swirls for you to practice on. The following drawings will show you my preferred method of cutting these types of curves and swirls.
> 
> First of all, thread the blade through the entry hole and start scrolling so you enter the line on a corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This will help hide any type of slight ridge that you may make from the entry and exit spot as explained in the earlier lessons.
> 
> When you get to the corner, turn your blade to the LEFT and begin cutting the inside edge of the curve as indicated by the dotted line with the arrow:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you get to the pointed edge, do NOT turn to the right at this point. Continue cutting slightly out to the waste area and then turn your piece counter-clockwise as shown on the diagram to make a little turning pocket as I showed in the previous lessons. Remember, this is a very small turn and you should just make a small hole with enough room to align your blade up to continue on:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you will follow around the rest of the curved edge, arriving at the sharp edge as indicated in the drawing:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, you now make a sharp corner as I showed you in the previous lesson and arrive at the entry point:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now wasn't that easy?
> 
> I was asked previously by several of you if I always went in a clockwise direction. While that is my preferred direction that I am most comfortable with, I realize that I also need to go in the opposite direction (counter-clockwise) at times for the best way of cutting things. I believe that is why it is important that you practice going in BOTH directions so that you are comfortable with cutting each way and can feel good in any situation.
> 
> In order to help you better understand the process, I created a short video for you showing you how I cut a segment of the design similar to the one that I diagrammed above. Hopefully, with these drawings and also the video at your disposal, you will be able to have a good idea of how this process works.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, I hope you will take the time to practice and do some homework before going on to the next lesson. For my piece of wood, I would use a half inch thick piece of solid maple and a #2 or #3 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. Remember though that this is only a suggestion. You may want to try with some pine, plywood or other wood that you may have around your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you again for participating in my class. Please feel free to ask me questions or even take pictures of your practice pieces and show them off here. I hope I have helped give you a better idea of cutting curves and swirls and most of all, I hope you are really having FUN!


Another lesson well done Sheila, Thanks! I hope when you are finished you intend to set all of these as a collection and maintain them somewhere so they will be available to new scrollers as they come into the hobby. I would think here as well as on Steve's site would both be excellent.


----------



## Blakep

scrollgirl said:


> *Lesson 8 - Cutting Inside Curves and Swirls*
> 
> By now you have had some time to practice cutting inside and outside corners. While getting nice sharp corners is really important to your scroll working, one of the signatures of traditional fretwork pieces are the graceful curves and swirls that you are able to cut with the scroll saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Victorian times, fretwork was cut either by hand or by using foot powered pedal saws. It was a delicate and painstaking process and took years of practice to master and accomplish.
> 
> With the introduction of better scroll saws and blades, we are now able to replicate these beautiful fretwork designs, and even take them to a higher level. Since many of the newer saws have very low vibration, it is now possible to have pinpoint control and create wonderful and intricate designs easily. In addition, the use of pinless or 'flat end' scroll saw blades allows us to cut tiny details that were never before possible. With a little practice, we can all cut these types of designs nearly effortlessly.
> 
> Because of the thin size and nature of the scroll saw blades, it is actually easier to cut a curve on the scroll saw than a straight line. Certain factors such as the direction of the grain of the wood, the thickness of the wood, and the speed of the saw can greatly affect the performance of a particular blade with a particular species of wood. There are many correct combinations of wood, blade size and speed that you can use, depending on several factors such as the amount of detail in the design and also the thickness and hardness of the wood. These are all variables that can be confusing, but as you work with more and more different types of wood and blades you will soon learn your preference and comfort level of working and learn what will work best for you. The suggestions that I give you here and also in my patterns are only base guidelines and you should feel free to use something different if you feel it works better for you.
> 
> Another thing to remember when you are cutting curves is that if you do happen to drift a bit off the line, it is very important that you correct your path gradually. Many times designs that have lots of curves are very forgiving and once the pattern paper is removed from your piece, many of your 'mistakes' will magically disappear. If your blade seems to want to follow the wood grain instead of the line, instead of making a sharp turn back into the line, gradually drift it back on course. Chances are that no one will ever notice. If this happens too often, it is very possible that the blade is too small for the piece of wood you are cutting. Simply move up a blade size and see if that will help. The larger the blade, the more stable it is and the less chance it has of following the grain instead of the line. This is particularly true when you are following along in the direction of the grain, or using a wood that has a great variance in the density of the grain from place to place.
> 
> Be kind to yourself and allow room for some error - especially when you are just starting out. Before long you will find it easier and easier to follow the line exactly.
> 
> When you are choosing a blade for a certain piece that you are cutting, you should try to choose the smallest blade possible that allows you to follow your lines correctly. This will result in nice crisp and clear corners and easier maneuverability. Remember to factor in the density, thickness and even the moisture content of the wood you are cutting when choosing a blade. Drier wood tends to cut more easily, but also can be brittle and prone to breaking. Wood with a higher moisture content can cause a blade to 'drag' and make it a bit harder to control. Plywood contains lots of glue that holds the layers of wood together. While this is beneficial as far as strength and control (since the grain is in several directions, there is much less drift caused from the grain) cutting plywood is much harder on blades and they tend to dull quicker than they do with hardwood.
> 
> As you can see, the more you are aware of these factors and understand their role in the process of scroll sawing, the easier it is to adjust your speed, blade and wood so that you can have optimal results.
> 
> Now on to the lesson:
> 
> When cutting curves and swirls, I find that it is easier to cut the inside edge of the curve first and then the outer perimeter. There is much less of a chance of breaking the piece that way, as you are not putting pressure from the inside edge of a piece that has a free standing outer edge. While many designs have swirls that go in both directions within the same cut, which make it impossible to follow this rule every single time, I find that it is good practice to try to cut the inside edge of a curve whenever it is possible.
> 
> In the sample patter I gave you for Lesson 7 (which you can download HERE) there are many nice gentle curves and swirls for you to practice on. The following drawings will show you my preferred method of cutting these types of curves and swirls.
> 
> First of all, thread the blade through the entry hole and start scrolling so you enter the line on a corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This will help hide any type of slight ridge that you may make from the entry and exit spot as explained in the earlier lessons.
> 
> When you get to the corner, turn your blade to the LEFT and begin cutting the inside edge of the curve as indicated by the dotted line with the arrow:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you get to the pointed edge, do NOT turn to the right at this point. Continue cutting slightly out to the waste area and then turn your piece counter-clockwise as shown on the diagram to make a little turning pocket as I showed in the previous lessons. Remember, this is a very small turn and you should just make a small hole with enough room to align your blade up to continue on:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you will follow around the rest of the curved edge, arriving at the sharp edge as indicated in the drawing:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, you now make a sharp corner as I showed you in the previous lesson and arrive at the entry point:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now wasn't that easy?
> 
> I was asked previously by several of you if I always went in a clockwise direction. While that is my preferred direction that I am most comfortable with, I realize that I also need to go in the opposite direction (counter-clockwise) at times for the best way of cutting things. I believe that is why it is important that you practice going in BOTH directions so that you are comfortable with cutting each way and can feel good in any situation.
> 
> In order to help you better understand the process, I created a short video for you showing you how I cut a segment of the design similar to the one that I diagrammed above. Hopefully, with these drawings and also the video at your disposal, you will be able to have a good idea of how this process works.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, I hope you will take the time to practice and do some homework before going on to the next lesson. For my piece of wood, I would use a half inch thick piece of solid maple and a #2 or #3 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. Remember though that this is only a suggestion. You may want to try with some pine, plywood or other wood that you may have around your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you again for participating in my class. Please feel free to ask me questions or even take pictures of your practice pieces and show them off here. I hope I have helped give you a better idea of cutting curves and swirls and most of all, I hope you are really having FUN!


I am very late but i just bought a scroll saw last week and have been catching up slowly. You are doing a great job Sheila. After i got my saw and practiced for a few days i was about ready to throw it in the trash and give up on scrolling. Before i did this though i decided that i would try some spiral blades first. I started cutting with the spiral blades and thought they were great until i saw the finished product. I then switched back to regular blades and for some reason almost like magic i had gotten the hang of it. I am still very slow and can't quiet figure out what it was but for some reason using the spiral blades for a short time made me better with the regular blades. I may be crazy but for some reason it helped me. I still have a lot of learning to do and am still catching up on the class when i find time but the class is great and thank you for doing it Sheila.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Lesson 8 - Cutting Inside Curves and Swirls*
> 
> By now you have had some time to practice cutting inside and outside corners. While getting nice sharp corners is really important to your scroll working, one of the signatures of traditional fretwork pieces are the graceful curves and swirls that you are able to cut with the scroll saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Victorian times, fretwork was cut either by hand or by using foot powered pedal saws. It was a delicate and painstaking process and took years of practice to master and accomplish.
> 
> With the introduction of better scroll saws and blades, we are now able to replicate these beautiful fretwork designs, and even take them to a higher level. Since many of the newer saws have very low vibration, it is now possible to have pinpoint control and create wonderful and intricate designs easily. In addition, the use of pinless or 'flat end' scroll saw blades allows us to cut tiny details that were never before possible. With a little practice, we can all cut these types of designs nearly effortlessly.
> 
> Because of the thin size and nature of the scroll saw blades, it is actually easier to cut a curve on the scroll saw than a straight line. Certain factors such as the direction of the grain of the wood, the thickness of the wood, and the speed of the saw can greatly affect the performance of a particular blade with a particular species of wood. There are many correct combinations of wood, blade size and speed that you can use, depending on several factors such as the amount of detail in the design and also the thickness and hardness of the wood. These are all variables that can be confusing, but as you work with more and more different types of wood and blades you will soon learn your preference and comfort level of working and learn what will work best for you. The suggestions that I give you here and also in my patterns are only base guidelines and you should feel free to use something different if you feel it works better for you.
> 
> Another thing to remember when you are cutting curves is that if you do happen to drift a bit off the line, it is very important that you correct your path gradually. Many times designs that have lots of curves are very forgiving and once the pattern paper is removed from your piece, many of your 'mistakes' will magically disappear. If your blade seems to want to follow the wood grain instead of the line, instead of making a sharp turn back into the line, gradually drift it back on course. Chances are that no one will ever notice. If this happens too often, it is very possible that the blade is too small for the piece of wood you are cutting. Simply move up a blade size and see if that will help. The larger the blade, the more stable it is and the less chance it has of following the grain instead of the line. This is particularly true when you are following along in the direction of the grain, or using a wood that has a great variance in the density of the grain from place to place.
> 
> Be kind to yourself and allow room for some error - especially when you are just starting out. Before long you will find it easier and easier to follow the line exactly.
> 
> When you are choosing a blade for a certain piece that you are cutting, you should try to choose the smallest blade possible that allows you to follow your lines correctly. This will result in nice crisp and clear corners and easier maneuverability. Remember to factor in the density, thickness and even the moisture content of the wood you are cutting when choosing a blade. Drier wood tends to cut more easily, but also can be brittle and prone to breaking. Wood with a higher moisture content can cause a blade to 'drag' and make it a bit harder to control. Plywood contains lots of glue that holds the layers of wood together. While this is beneficial as far as strength and control (since the grain is in several directions, there is much less drift caused from the grain) cutting plywood is much harder on blades and they tend to dull quicker than they do with hardwood.
> 
> As you can see, the more you are aware of these factors and understand their role in the process of scroll sawing, the easier it is to adjust your speed, blade and wood so that you can have optimal results.
> 
> Now on to the lesson:
> 
> When cutting curves and swirls, I find that it is easier to cut the inside edge of the curve first and then the outer perimeter. There is much less of a chance of breaking the piece that way, as you are not putting pressure from the inside edge of a piece that has a free standing outer edge. While many designs have swirls that go in both directions within the same cut, which make it impossible to follow this rule every single time, I find that it is good practice to try to cut the inside edge of a curve whenever it is possible.
> 
> In the sample patter I gave you for Lesson 7 (which you can download HERE) there are many nice gentle curves and swirls for you to practice on. The following drawings will show you my preferred method of cutting these types of curves and swirls.
> 
> First of all, thread the blade through the entry hole and start scrolling so you enter the line on a corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This will help hide any type of slight ridge that you may make from the entry and exit spot as explained in the earlier lessons.
> 
> When you get to the corner, turn your blade to the LEFT and begin cutting the inside edge of the curve as indicated by the dotted line with the arrow:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you get to the pointed edge, do NOT turn to the right at this point. Continue cutting slightly out to the waste area and then turn your piece counter-clockwise as shown on the diagram to make a little turning pocket as I showed in the previous lessons. Remember, this is a very small turn and you should just make a small hole with enough room to align your blade up to continue on:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you will follow around the rest of the curved edge, arriving at the sharp edge as indicated in the drawing:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, you now make a sharp corner as I showed you in the previous lesson and arrive at the entry point:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now wasn't that easy?
> 
> I was asked previously by several of you if I always went in a clockwise direction. While that is my preferred direction that I am most comfortable with, I realize that I also need to go in the opposite direction (counter-clockwise) at times for the best way of cutting things. I believe that is why it is important that you practice going in BOTH directions so that you are comfortable with cutting each way and can feel good in any situation.
> 
> In order to help you better understand the process, I created a short video for you showing you how I cut a segment of the design similar to the one that I diagrammed above. Hopefully, with these drawings and also the video at your disposal, you will be able to have a good idea of how this process works.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, I hope you will take the time to practice and do some homework before going on to the next lesson. For my piece of wood, I would use a half inch thick piece of solid maple and a #2 or #3 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. Remember though that this is only a suggestion. You may want to try with some pine, plywood or other wood that you may have around your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you again for participating in my class. Please feel free to ask me questions or even take pictures of your practice pieces and show them off here. I hope I have helped give you a better idea of cutting curves and swirls and most of all, I hope you are really having FUN!


You are very welcome, Blakep. I am happy that you joined us. I will be posting the next lesson in the next couple of days. So much of scroll sawing is practice. It isn't an exact science and getting a feel for it is part of the process. Patience and practice are your best friends!

Best of luck and please feel free to ask if you have any questions. There are lots of us here to help! 

Sheila


----------



## buffalojim

scrollgirl said:


> *Lesson 8 - Cutting Inside Curves and Swirls*
> 
> By now you have had some time to practice cutting inside and outside corners. While getting nice sharp corners is really important to your scroll working, one of the signatures of traditional fretwork pieces are the graceful curves and swirls that you are able to cut with the scroll saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Victorian times, fretwork was cut either by hand or by using foot powered pedal saws. It was a delicate and painstaking process and took years of practice to master and accomplish.
> 
> With the introduction of better scroll saws and blades, we are now able to replicate these beautiful fretwork designs, and even take them to a higher level. Since many of the newer saws have very low vibration, it is now possible to have pinpoint control and create wonderful and intricate designs easily. In addition, the use of pinless or 'flat end' scroll saw blades allows us to cut tiny details that were never before possible. With a little practice, we can all cut these types of designs nearly effortlessly.
> 
> Because of the thin size and nature of the scroll saw blades, it is actually easier to cut a curve on the scroll saw than a straight line. Certain factors such as the direction of the grain of the wood, the thickness of the wood, and the speed of the saw can greatly affect the performance of a particular blade with a particular species of wood. There are many correct combinations of wood, blade size and speed that you can use, depending on several factors such as the amount of detail in the design and also the thickness and hardness of the wood. These are all variables that can be confusing, but as you work with more and more different types of wood and blades you will soon learn your preference and comfort level of working and learn what will work best for you. The suggestions that I give you here and also in my patterns are only base guidelines and you should feel free to use something different if you feel it works better for you.
> 
> Another thing to remember when you are cutting curves is that if you do happen to drift a bit off the line, it is very important that you correct your path gradually. Many times designs that have lots of curves are very forgiving and once the pattern paper is removed from your piece, many of your 'mistakes' will magically disappear. If your blade seems to want to follow the wood grain instead of the line, instead of making a sharp turn back into the line, gradually drift it back on course. Chances are that no one will ever notice. If this happens too often, it is very possible that the blade is too small for the piece of wood you are cutting. Simply move up a blade size and see if that will help. The larger the blade, the more stable it is and the less chance it has of following the grain instead of the line. This is particularly true when you are following along in the direction of the grain, or using a wood that has a great variance in the density of the grain from place to place.
> 
> Be kind to yourself and allow room for some error - especially when you are just starting out. Before long you will find it easier and easier to follow the line exactly.
> 
> When you are choosing a blade for a certain piece that you are cutting, you should try to choose the smallest blade possible that allows you to follow your lines correctly. This will result in nice crisp and clear corners and easier maneuverability. Remember to factor in the density, thickness and even the moisture content of the wood you are cutting when choosing a blade. Drier wood tends to cut more easily, but also can be brittle and prone to breaking. Wood with a higher moisture content can cause a blade to 'drag' and make it a bit harder to control. Plywood contains lots of glue that holds the layers of wood together. While this is beneficial as far as strength and control (since the grain is in several directions, there is much less drift caused from the grain) cutting plywood is much harder on blades and they tend to dull quicker than they do with hardwood.
> 
> As you can see, the more you are aware of these factors and understand their role in the process of scroll sawing, the easier it is to adjust your speed, blade and wood so that you can have optimal results.
> 
> Now on to the lesson:
> 
> When cutting curves and swirls, I find that it is easier to cut the inside edge of the curve first and then the outer perimeter. There is much less of a chance of breaking the piece that way, as you are not putting pressure from the inside edge of a piece that has a free standing outer edge. While many designs have swirls that go in both directions within the same cut, which make it impossible to follow this rule every single time, I find that it is good practice to try to cut the inside edge of a curve whenever it is possible.
> 
> In the sample patter I gave you for Lesson 7 (which you can download HERE) there are many nice gentle curves and swirls for you to practice on. The following drawings will show you my preferred method of cutting these types of curves and swirls.
> 
> First of all, thread the blade through the entry hole and start scrolling so you enter the line on a corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This will help hide any type of slight ridge that you may make from the entry and exit spot as explained in the earlier lessons.
> 
> When you get to the corner, turn your blade to the LEFT and begin cutting the inside edge of the curve as indicated by the dotted line with the arrow:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you get to the pointed edge, do NOT turn to the right at this point. Continue cutting slightly out to the waste area and then turn your piece counter-clockwise as shown on the diagram to make a little turning pocket as I showed in the previous lessons. Remember, this is a very small turn and you should just make a small hole with enough room to align your blade up to continue on:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you will follow around the rest of the curved edge, arriving at the sharp edge as indicated in the drawing:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, you now make a sharp corner as I showed you in the previous lesson and arrive at the entry point:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now wasn't that easy?
> 
> I was asked previously by several of you if I always went in a clockwise direction. While that is my preferred direction that I am most comfortable with, I realize that I also need to go in the opposite direction (counter-clockwise) at times for the best way of cutting things. I believe that is why it is important that you practice going in BOTH directions so that you are comfortable with cutting each way and can feel good in any situation.
> 
> In order to help you better understand the process, I created a short video for you showing you how I cut a segment of the design similar to the one that I diagrammed above. Hopefully, with these drawings and also the video at your disposal, you will be able to have a good idea of how this process works.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, I hope you will take the time to practice and do some homework before going on to the next lesson. For my piece of wood, I would use a half inch thick piece of solid maple and a #2 or #3 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. Remember though that this is only a suggestion. You may want to try with some pine, plywood or other wood that you may have around your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you again for participating in my class. Please feel free to ask me questions or even take pictures of your practice pieces and show them off here. I hope I have helped give you a better idea of cutting curves and swirls and most of all, I hope you are really having FUN!


thanks Shelia, your lessons have solved 2 of my major faults in fret work.

Jim


----------



## davez

scrollgirl said:


> *Lesson 8 - Cutting Inside Curves and Swirls*
> 
> By now you have had some time to practice cutting inside and outside corners. While getting nice sharp corners is really important to your scroll working, one of the signatures of traditional fretwork pieces are the graceful curves and swirls that you are able to cut with the scroll saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Victorian times, fretwork was cut either by hand or by using foot powered pedal saws. It was a delicate and painstaking process and took years of practice to master and accomplish.
> 
> With the introduction of better scroll saws and blades, we are now able to replicate these beautiful fretwork designs, and even take them to a higher level. Since many of the newer saws have very low vibration, it is now possible to have pinpoint control and create wonderful and intricate designs easily. In addition, the use of pinless or 'flat end' scroll saw blades allows us to cut tiny details that were never before possible. With a little practice, we can all cut these types of designs nearly effortlessly.
> 
> Because of the thin size and nature of the scroll saw blades, it is actually easier to cut a curve on the scroll saw than a straight line. Certain factors such as the direction of the grain of the wood, the thickness of the wood, and the speed of the saw can greatly affect the performance of a particular blade with a particular species of wood. There are many correct combinations of wood, blade size and speed that you can use, depending on several factors such as the amount of detail in the design and also the thickness and hardness of the wood. These are all variables that can be confusing, but as you work with more and more different types of wood and blades you will soon learn your preference and comfort level of working and learn what will work best for you. The suggestions that I give you here and also in my patterns are only base guidelines and you should feel free to use something different if you feel it works better for you.
> 
> Another thing to remember when you are cutting curves is that if you do happen to drift a bit off the line, it is very important that you correct your path gradually. Many times designs that have lots of curves are very forgiving and once the pattern paper is removed from your piece, many of your 'mistakes' will magically disappear. If your blade seems to want to follow the wood grain instead of the line, instead of making a sharp turn back into the line, gradually drift it back on course. Chances are that no one will ever notice. If this happens too often, it is very possible that the blade is too small for the piece of wood you are cutting. Simply move up a blade size and see if that will help. The larger the blade, the more stable it is and the less chance it has of following the grain instead of the line. This is particularly true when you are following along in the direction of the grain, or using a wood that has a great variance in the density of the grain from place to place.
> 
> Be kind to yourself and allow room for some error - especially when you are just starting out. Before long you will find it easier and easier to follow the line exactly.
> 
> When you are choosing a blade for a certain piece that you are cutting, you should try to choose the smallest blade possible that allows you to follow your lines correctly. This will result in nice crisp and clear corners and easier maneuverability. Remember to factor in the density, thickness and even the moisture content of the wood you are cutting when choosing a blade. Drier wood tends to cut more easily, but also can be brittle and prone to breaking. Wood with a higher moisture content can cause a blade to 'drag' and make it a bit harder to control. Plywood contains lots of glue that holds the layers of wood together. While this is beneficial as far as strength and control (since the grain is in several directions, there is much less drift caused from the grain) cutting plywood is much harder on blades and they tend to dull quicker than they do with hardwood.
> 
> As you can see, the more you are aware of these factors and understand their role in the process of scroll sawing, the easier it is to adjust your speed, blade and wood so that you can have optimal results.
> 
> Now on to the lesson:
> 
> When cutting curves and swirls, I find that it is easier to cut the inside edge of the curve first and then the outer perimeter. There is much less of a chance of breaking the piece that way, as you are not putting pressure from the inside edge of a piece that has a free standing outer edge. While many designs have swirls that go in both directions within the same cut, which make it impossible to follow this rule every single time, I find that it is good practice to try to cut the inside edge of a curve whenever it is possible.
> 
> In the sample patter I gave you for Lesson 7 (which you can download HERE) there are many nice gentle curves and swirls for you to practice on. The following drawings will show you my preferred method of cutting these types of curves and swirls.
> 
> First of all, thread the blade through the entry hole and start scrolling so you enter the line on a corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This will help hide any type of slight ridge that you may make from the entry and exit spot as explained in the earlier lessons.
> 
> When you get to the corner, turn your blade to the LEFT and begin cutting the inside edge of the curve as indicated by the dotted line with the arrow:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you get to the pointed edge, do NOT turn to the right at this point. Continue cutting slightly out to the waste area and then turn your piece counter-clockwise as shown on the diagram to make a little turning pocket as I showed in the previous lessons. Remember, this is a very small turn and you should just make a small hole with enough room to align your blade up to continue on:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you will follow around the rest of the curved edge, arriving at the sharp edge as indicated in the drawing:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, you now make a sharp corner as I showed you in the previous lesson and arrive at the entry point:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now wasn't that easy?
> 
> I was asked previously by several of you if I always went in a clockwise direction. While that is my preferred direction that I am most comfortable with, I realize that I also need to go in the opposite direction (counter-clockwise) at times for the best way of cutting things. I believe that is why it is important that you practice going in BOTH directions so that you are comfortable with cutting each way and can feel good in any situation.
> 
> In order to help you better understand the process, I created a short video for you showing you how I cut a segment of the design similar to the one that I diagrammed above. Hopefully, with these drawings and also the video at your disposal, you will be able to have a good idea of how this process works.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, I hope you will take the time to practice and do some homework before going on to the next lesson. For my piece of wood, I would use a half inch thick piece of solid maple and a #2 or #3 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. Remember though that this is only a suggestion. You may want to try with some pine, plywood or other wood that you may have around your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you again for participating in my class. Please feel free to ask me questions or even take pictures of your practice pieces and show them off here. I hope I have helped give you a better idea of cutting curves and swirls and most of all, I hope you are really having FUN!


Hi: I'm new to the site & was just watching lesson 6 of Sheila Landry's tutorials.
My question is .Are the other 5 lessons still available for viewing
somewhere in this site?


----------



## helluvawreck

scrollgirl said:


> *Lesson 8 - Cutting Inside Curves and Swirls*
> 
> By now you have had some time to practice cutting inside and outside corners. While getting nice sharp corners is really important to your scroll working, one of the signatures of traditional fretwork pieces are the graceful curves and swirls that you are able to cut with the scroll saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Victorian times, fretwork was cut either by hand or by using foot powered pedal saws. It was a delicate and painstaking process and took years of practice to master and accomplish.
> 
> With the introduction of better scroll saws and blades, we are now able to replicate these beautiful fretwork designs, and even take them to a higher level. Since many of the newer saws have very low vibration, it is now possible to have pinpoint control and create wonderful and intricate designs easily. In addition, the use of pinless or 'flat end' scroll saw blades allows us to cut tiny details that were never before possible. With a little practice, we can all cut these types of designs nearly effortlessly.
> 
> Because of the thin size and nature of the scroll saw blades, it is actually easier to cut a curve on the scroll saw than a straight line. Certain factors such as the direction of the grain of the wood, the thickness of the wood, and the speed of the saw can greatly affect the performance of a particular blade with a particular species of wood. There are many correct combinations of wood, blade size and speed that you can use, depending on several factors such as the amount of detail in the design and also the thickness and hardness of the wood. These are all variables that can be confusing, but as you work with more and more different types of wood and blades you will soon learn your preference and comfort level of working and learn what will work best for you. The suggestions that I give you here and also in my patterns are only base guidelines and you should feel free to use something different if you feel it works better for you.
> 
> Another thing to remember when you are cutting curves is that if you do happen to drift a bit off the line, it is very important that you correct your path gradually. Many times designs that have lots of curves are very forgiving and once the pattern paper is removed from your piece, many of your 'mistakes' will magically disappear. If your blade seems to want to follow the wood grain instead of the line, instead of making a sharp turn back into the line, gradually drift it back on course. Chances are that no one will ever notice. If this happens too often, it is very possible that the blade is too small for the piece of wood you are cutting. Simply move up a blade size and see if that will help. The larger the blade, the more stable it is and the less chance it has of following the grain instead of the line. This is particularly true when you are following along in the direction of the grain, or using a wood that has a great variance in the density of the grain from place to place.
> 
> Be kind to yourself and allow room for some error - especially when you are just starting out. Before long you will find it easier and easier to follow the line exactly.
> 
> When you are choosing a blade for a certain piece that you are cutting, you should try to choose the smallest blade possible that allows you to follow your lines correctly. This will result in nice crisp and clear corners and easier maneuverability. Remember to factor in the density, thickness and even the moisture content of the wood you are cutting when choosing a blade. Drier wood tends to cut more easily, but also can be brittle and prone to breaking. Wood with a higher moisture content can cause a blade to 'drag' and make it a bit harder to control. Plywood contains lots of glue that holds the layers of wood together. While this is beneficial as far as strength and control (since the grain is in several directions, there is much less drift caused from the grain) cutting plywood is much harder on blades and they tend to dull quicker than they do with hardwood.
> 
> As you can see, the more you are aware of these factors and understand their role in the process of scroll sawing, the easier it is to adjust your speed, blade and wood so that you can have optimal results.
> 
> Now on to the lesson:
> 
> When cutting curves and swirls, I find that it is easier to cut the inside edge of the curve first and then the outer perimeter. There is much less of a chance of breaking the piece that way, as you are not putting pressure from the inside edge of a piece that has a free standing outer edge. While many designs have swirls that go in both directions within the same cut, which make it impossible to follow this rule every single time, I find that it is good practice to try to cut the inside edge of a curve whenever it is possible.
> 
> In the sample patter I gave you for Lesson 7 (which you can download HERE) there are many nice gentle curves and swirls for you to practice on. The following drawings will show you my preferred method of cutting these types of curves and swirls.
> 
> First of all, thread the blade through the entry hole and start scrolling so you enter the line on a corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This will help hide any type of slight ridge that you may make from the entry and exit spot as explained in the earlier lessons.
> 
> When you get to the corner, turn your blade to the LEFT and begin cutting the inside edge of the curve as indicated by the dotted line with the arrow:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you get to the pointed edge, do NOT turn to the right at this point. Continue cutting slightly out to the waste area and then turn your piece counter-clockwise as shown on the diagram to make a little turning pocket as I showed in the previous lessons. Remember, this is a very small turn and you should just make a small hole with enough room to align your blade up to continue on:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you will follow around the rest of the curved edge, arriving at the sharp edge as indicated in the drawing:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, you now make a sharp corner as I showed you in the previous lesson and arrive at the entry point:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now wasn't that easy?
> 
> I was asked previously by several of you if I always went in a clockwise direction. While that is my preferred direction that I am most comfortable with, I realize that I also need to go in the opposite direction (counter-clockwise) at times for the best way of cutting things. I believe that is why it is important that you practice going in BOTH directions so that you are comfortable with cutting each way and can feel good in any situation.
> 
> In order to help you better understand the process, I created a short video for you showing you how I cut a segment of the design similar to the one that I diagrammed above. Hopefully, with these drawings and also the video at your disposal, you will be able to have a good idea of how this process works.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always, I hope you will take the time to practice and do some homework before going on to the next lesson. For my piece of wood, I would use a half inch thick piece of solid maple and a #2 or #3 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. Remember though that this is only a suggestion. You may want to try with some pine, plywood or other wood that you may have around your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you again for participating in my class. Please feel free to ask me questions or even take pictures of your practice pieces and show them off here. I hope I have helped give you a better idea of cutting curves and swirls and most of all, I hope you are really having FUN!


Your tutorial is great, *Sheila*. I thank you for getting me into using my saw. I still use it mostly with my carvings but am starting to do other things as well. Thanks.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Lesson 8 - Cutting Inside Curves and Swirls*
> 
> By now you have had some time to practice cutting inside and outside corners. While getting nice sharp corners is really important to your scroll working, one of the signatures of traditional fretwork pieces are the graceful curves and swirls that you are able to cut with the scroll saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Victorian times, fretwork was cut either by hand or by using foot powered pedal saws. It was a delicate and painstaking process and took years of practice to master and accomplish.
> 
> With the introduction of better scroll saws and blades, we are now able to replicate these beautiful fretwork designs, and even take them to a higher level. Since many of the newer saws have very low vibration, it is now possible to have pinpoint control and create wonderful and intricate designs easily. In addition, the use of pinless or 'flat end' scroll saw blades allows us to cut tiny details that were never before possible. With a little practice, we can all cut these types of designs nearly effortlessly.
> 
> Because of the thin size and nature of the scroll saw blades, it is actually easier to cut a curve on the scroll saw than a straight line. Certain factors such as the direction of the grain of the wood, the thickness of the wood, and the speed of the saw can greatly affect the performance of a particular blade with a particular species of wood. There are many correct combinations of wood, blade size and speed that you can use, depending on several factors such as the amount of detail in the design and also the thickness and hardness of the wood. These are all variables that can be confusing, but as you work with more and more different types of wood and blades you will soon learn your preference and comfort level of working and learn what will work best for you. The suggestions that I give you here and also in my patterns are only base guidelines and you should feel free to use something different if you feel it works better for you.
> 
> Another thing to remember when you are cutting curves is that if you do happen to drift a bit off the line, it is very important that you correct your path gradually. Many times designs that have lots of curves are very forgiving and once the pattern paper is removed from your piece, many of your 'mistakes' will magically disappear. If your blade seems to want to follow the wood grain instead of the line, instead of making a sharp turn back into the line, gradually drift it back on course. Chances are that no one will ever notice. If this happens too often, it is very possible that the blade is too small for the piece of wood you are cutting. Simply move up a blade size and see if that will help. The larger the blade, the more stable it is and the less chance it has of following the grain instead of the line. This is particularly true when you are following along in the direction of the grain, or using a wood that has a great variance in the density of the grain from place to place.
> 
> Be kind to yourself and allow room for some error - especially when you are just starting out. Before long you will find it easier and easier to follow the line exactly.
> 
> When you are choosing a blade for a certain piece that you are cutting, you should try to choose the smallest blade possible that allows you to follow your lines correctly. This will result in nice crisp and clear corners and easier maneuverability. Remember to factor in the density, thickness and even the moisture content of the wood you are cutting when choosing a blade. Drier wood tends to cut more easily, but also can be brittle and prone to breaking. Wood with a higher moisture content can cause a blade to 'drag' and make it a bit harder to control. Plywood contains lots of glue that holds the layers of wood together. While this is beneficial as far as strength and control (since the grain is in several directions, there is much less drift caused from the grain) cutting plywood is much harder on blades and they tend to dull quicker than they do with hardwood.
> 
> As you can see, the more you are aware of these factors and understand their role in the process of scroll sawing, the easier it is to adjust your speed, blade and wood so that you can have optimal results.
> 
> Now on to the lesson:
> 
> When cutting curves and swirls, I find that it is easier to cut the inside edge of the curve first and then the outer perimeter. There is much less of a chance of breaking the piece that way, as you are not putting pressure from the inside edge of a piece that has a free standing outer edge. While many designs have swirls that go in both directions within the same cut, which make it impossible to follow this rule every single time, I find that it is good practice to try to cut the inside edge of a curve whenever it is possible.
> 
> In the sample patter I gave you for Lesson 7 (which you can download HERE) there are many nice gentle curves and swirls for you to practice on. The following drawings will show you my preferred method of cutting these types of curves and swirls.
> 
> First of all, thread the blade through the entry hole and start scrolling so you enter the line on a corner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This will help hide any type of slight ridge that you may make from the entry and exit spot as explained in the earlier lessons.
> 
> When you get to the corner, turn your blade to the LEFT and begin cutting the inside edge of the curve as indicated by the dotted line with the arrow:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you get to the pointed edge, do NOT turn to the right at this point. Continue cutting slightly out to the waste area and then turn your piece counter-clockwise as shown on the diagram to make a little turning pocket as I showed in the previous lessons. Remember, this is a very small turn and you should just make a small hole with enough room to align your blade up to continue on:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you will follow around the rest of the curved edge, arriving at the sharp edge as indicated in the drawing:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, you now make a sharp corner as I showed you in the previous lesson and arrive at the entry point:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now wasn't that easy?
> 
> I was asked previously by several of you if I always went in a clockwise direction. While that is my preferred direction that I am most comfortable with, I realize that I also need to go in the opposite direction (counter-clockwise) at times for the best way of cutting things. I believe that is why it is important that you practice going in BOTH directions so that you are comfortable with cutting each way and can feel good in any situation.
> 
> In order to help you better understand the process, I created a short video for you showing you how I cut a segment of the design similar to the one that I diagrammed above. Hopefully, with these drawings and also the video at your disposal, you will be able to have a good idea of how this process works.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=-w_R1rA59c4
> 
> As always, I hope you will take the time to practice and do some homework before going on to the next lesson. For my piece of wood, I would use a half inch thick piece of solid maple and a #2 or #3 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. Remember though that this is only a suggestion. You may want to try with some pine, plywood or other wood that you may have around your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you again for participating in my class. Please feel free to ask me questions or even take pictures of your practice pieces and show them off here. I hope I have helped give you a better idea of cutting curves and swirls and most of all, I hope you are really having FUN!


Hi, Dave and WELCOME! All the lessons are available, (and will be archived, I believe for 'the duration' of the site) The link to all the lessons is HERE

I still have a couple of additional lessons I want to add, but it has been so busy for me, I am afraid that I have been a bit behind. They will get posted eventually though, as soon as I have the time to make a couple of more videos and I am always here to answer questions you may have on anything. 

I hope you enjoy them and I am glad you are learning from them.

And you are very welcome, helluvawreck. I am glad that they are beneficial. I still think the scroll saw is one of the most versatile and fun tools in the shop! 

Sheila


----------



## scrollgirl

*Lesson 9 - Cutting Bevels on the Scroll Saw*

Well, you all should have had time to practice cutting all the inside curves and corners on the frames of the practice patterns that I gave you in the previous lessons. Now we should all be ready to move on to learning how to cut on a bevel.










One of the reasons that I like the scroll saw so much is because it is a very versatile tool. For a relatively minimal start up cost, you can get a tool that has the ability to make a great variety of projects. For many years, my scroll saw and drill press were pretty much the only power tools I owned. Yet, I was still able to create lots of wonderful things using them. With the addition of a few other small hand tools, such as a sander and a small router or laminate trimmer, it opens up a whole array of exciting techniques you can use to make your projects more interesting and fun.

Most scroll saws have the ability to make bevel or angled cuts. This is typically achieved by tilting the table of the saw either to the left or the right so that the blade is cutting on an angle. Some saws, like the Excalibur saw (the one I have) allows you to tilt the head of the saw and keeps the table flat. This makes is much easier for you to cut on an angle, as you don't have to worry about holding the piece at an angle when you are cutting, and you can concentrate on the cut at hand.

While tilting the blade is possible, I wouldn't advise you to do so in order to make miters and things that need precise angles. Since the blades are so thin on the scroll saw, they will flex while cutting, creating cuts that are not perfectly straight. This makes it nearly impossible to make a clean miter joint.

However, bevel cutting on the scroll saw can be very useful to create things like self-framing plaques and ornaments, as well as certain types of baskets and candy dishes. I also use this method to make all of my candle tray patterns, as I like the edge design raised up a bit from the center that the candle sits on.

For our purposes, in this lesson we are going to explore making bevel cuts to create a self-framing plaque. I like designing and cutting self-framing plaques because as the name implies, the frame is cut from the same piece of wood as the design.

Many of you may not have realized that the practice frame pattern I gave you to scroll saw in lesson 7 is part of self-framing butterfly plaque that I designed. Although I gave you the pattern for the outside fretwork of the frame, I left out the central picture in the middle because I didn't want you to jump ahead. I have now posted the full pattern for you and you can download it HERE.

Please go to my Google Document account and download it now. If you already did the frame, just cut the inner portion of the design out and apply it to the frame as I instructed before (using blue painter's tape underneath) If you finished cutting the fretwork border of the frame from the last lesson and have left the pattern in place, you could just stick the inner portion of the pattern over the existing pattern and go from there.

For the sample plaque, I used 1/2" maple and I angled the saw 4 degrees to the outside of the circle. Since I cut my piece in a clockwise direction, I tilted the head of my Excalibur scroll saw to the right that amount. If you were using a scroll saw such as a DeWalt, in which the table tilts, you would tilt the saw table so that the left side of the table is lower than the right side, causing the angle of the blade to be radiating outward from the center of the plaque.

I have made some drawings to help you understand what we are doing here. It shows a typical piece of this type from a cut away side view. The center portion represents the center of the plaque, while the two outside sections represent the frame. The red lines are the kerf lines left from your saw blade, angled to the outside of the piece.










Although these drawings are somewhat exaggerated to better illustrate the point, the second drawing shows the space that is left from the blade, or the kerf. This is why it is important to consider not only the angle of the cut, but also the blade size. If you wish the piece to drop down a bit farther into the frame, simply use a larger blade with a wider kerf.










Once the piece is cut, you can push it into the frame and lock in, leaving the frame protruding to the front. The frame can and should be glued to keep it in place once all the cutting is finished. I also found that it look quite nice if you slightly round over the inside edge of the frame with a router or laminate trimmer and a small round over bit. (Do this before gluing naturally!)










If you wish to have less of a drop of the piece, simply increase the angle by half a degree or so. The increased angle will not allow the center to drop as far through the frame.

I strongly suggest that you test your angle and blade size on a scrap of wood that is the same thickness as the piece you are cutting. For plaques such as this, I frequently use the waste areas from the corners for testing. Simply draw a small circle and cut a test cut at the given angle and then adjust your saw accordingly. it is better to be safe than ruin a nice piece of wood.

I made a short video of me demonstrating how I adjust my saw and also of me cutting the circle. You can see how easy it is to do on my saw, as the table is still level and I don't have to fight gravity to turn the wood while it is on an angle. However, I owned a DeWalt saw for almost 15 years and the angle is so slight in cutting like this that it isn't really a factor. Enjoy the video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=-w_R1rA59c4

I have used this method with many different scroll sawn pieces, from pictures to baskets (like the one that Leldon cut here) and also on small items such as ornaments. This process really makes it easy to make an all-inclusive project and not have to worry about purchasing or making a frame for it. Once you try it, I am sure you will become a big fan of bevel cutting on the scroll saw!

Please feel free to ask me any questions you may have about this process. I will always try to be here to help you and I am sure that others on this forum will help with answers too.


----------



## JoeLyddon

scrollgirl said:


> *Lesson 9 - Cutting Bevels on the Scroll Saw*
> 
> Well, you all should have had time to practice cutting all the inside curves and corners on the frames of the practice patterns that I gave you in the previous lessons. Now we should all be ready to move on to learning how to cut on a bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the reasons that I like the scroll saw so much is because it is a very versatile tool. For a relatively minimal start up cost, you can get a tool that has the ability to make a great variety of projects. For many years, my scroll saw and drill press were pretty much the only power tools I owned. Yet, I was still able to create lots of wonderful things using them. With the addition of a few other small hand tools, such as a sander and a small router or laminate trimmer, it opens up a whole array of exciting techniques you can use to make your projects more interesting and fun.
> 
> Most scroll saws have the ability to make bevel or angled cuts. This is typically achieved by tilting the table of the saw either to the left or the right so that the blade is cutting on an angle. Some saws, like the Excalibur saw (the one I have) allows you to tilt the head of the saw and keeps the table flat. This makes is much easier for you to cut on an angle, as you don't have to worry about holding the piece at an angle when you are cutting, and you can concentrate on the cut at hand.
> 
> While tilting the blade is possible, I wouldn't advise you to do so in order to make miters and things that need precise angles. Since the blades are so thin on the scroll saw, they will flex while cutting, creating cuts that are not perfectly straight. This makes it nearly impossible to make a clean miter joint.
> 
> However, bevel cutting on the scroll saw can be very useful to create things like self-framing plaques and ornaments, as well as certain types of baskets and candy dishes. I also use this method to make all of my candle tray patterns, as I like the edge design raised up a bit from the center that the candle sits on.
> 
> For our purposes, in this lesson we are going to explore making bevel cuts to create a self-framing plaque. I like designing and cutting self-framing plaques because as the name implies, the frame is cut from the same piece of wood as the design.
> 
> Many of you may not have realized that the practice frame pattern I gave you to scroll saw in lesson 7 is part of self-framing butterfly plaque that I designed. Although I gave you the pattern for the outside fretwork of the frame, I left out the central picture in the middle because I didn't want you to jump ahead. I have now posted the full pattern for you and you can download it HERE.
> 
> Please go to my Google Document account and download it now. If you already did the frame, just cut the inner portion of the design out and apply it to the frame as I instructed before (using blue painter's tape underneath) If you finished cutting the fretwork border of the frame from the last lesson and have left the pattern in place, you could just stick the inner portion of the pattern over the existing pattern and go from there.
> 
> For the sample plaque, I used 1/2" maple and I angled the saw 4 degrees to the outside of the circle. Since I cut my piece in a clockwise direction, I tilted the head of my Excalibur scroll saw to the right that amount. If you were using a scroll saw such as a DeWalt, in which the table tilts, you would tilt the saw table so that the left side of the table is lower than the right side, causing the angle of the blade to be radiating outward from the center of the plaque.
> 
> I have made some drawings to help you understand what we are doing here. It shows a typical piece of this type from a cut away side view. The center portion represents the center of the plaque, while the two outside sections represent the frame. The red lines are the kerf lines left from your saw blade, angled to the outside of the piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although these drawings are somewhat exaggerated to better illustrate the point, the second drawing shows the space that is left from the blade, or the kerf. This is why it is important to consider not only the angle of the cut, but also the blade size. If you wish the piece to drop down a bit farther into the frame, simply use a larger blade with a wider kerf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the piece is cut, you can push it into the frame and lock in, leaving the frame protruding to the front. The frame can and should be glued to keep it in place once all the cutting is finished. I also found that it look quite nice if you slightly round over the inside edge of the frame with a router or laminate trimmer and a small round over bit. (Do this before gluing naturally!)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you wish to have less of a drop of the piece, simply increase the angle by half a degree or so. The increased angle will not allow the center to drop as far through the frame.
> 
> I strongly suggest that you test your angle and blade size on a scrap of wood that is the same thickness as the piece you are cutting. For plaques such as this, I frequently use the waste areas from the corners for testing. Simply draw a small circle and cut a test cut at the given angle and then adjust your saw accordingly. it is better to be safe than ruin a nice piece of wood.
> 
> I made a short video of me demonstrating how I adjust my saw and also of me cutting the circle. You can see how easy it is to do on my saw, as the table is still level and I don't have to fight gravity to turn the wood while it is on an angle. However, I owned a DeWalt saw for almost 15 years and the angle is so slight in cutting like this that it isn't really a factor. Enjoy the video:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=-w_R1rA59c4
> 
> I have used this method with many different scroll sawn pieces, from pictures to baskets (like the one that Leldon cut here) and also on small items such as ornaments. This process really makes it easy to make an all-inclusive project and not have to worry about purchasing or making a frame for it. Once you try it, I am sure you will become a big fan of bevel cutting on the scroll saw!
> 
> Please feel free to ask me any questions you may have about this process. I will always try to be here to help you and I am sure that others on this forum will help with answers too.


Sheila ,

Thank you for the clever technique!

Reminds me of an OFF cut of Marquetry where the angle is such so the new piece fits flush into the hole…
... by changing the angle more or less, you can have it standing Out, flush, or Set In!
Great technique! Awesome!


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Lesson 9 - Cutting Bevels on the Scroll Saw*
> 
> Well, you all should have had time to practice cutting all the inside curves and corners on the frames of the practice patterns that I gave you in the previous lessons. Now we should all be ready to move on to learning how to cut on a bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the reasons that I like the scroll saw so much is because it is a very versatile tool. For a relatively minimal start up cost, you can get a tool that has the ability to make a great variety of projects. For many years, my scroll saw and drill press were pretty much the only power tools I owned. Yet, I was still able to create lots of wonderful things using them. With the addition of a few other small hand tools, such as a sander and a small router or laminate trimmer, it opens up a whole array of exciting techniques you can use to make your projects more interesting and fun.
> 
> Most scroll saws have the ability to make bevel or angled cuts. This is typically achieved by tilting the table of the saw either to the left or the right so that the blade is cutting on an angle. Some saws, like the Excalibur saw (the one I have) allows you to tilt the head of the saw and keeps the table flat. This makes is much easier for you to cut on an angle, as you don't have to worry about holding the piece at an angle when you are cutting, and you can concentrate on the cut at hand.
> 
> While tilting the blade is possible, I wouldn't advise you to do so in order to make miters and things that need precise angles. Since the blades are so thin on the scroll saw, they will flex while cutting, creating cuts that are not perfectly straight. This makes it nearly impossible to make a clean miter joint.
> 
> However, bevel cutting on the scroll saw can be very useful to create things like self-framing plaques and ornaments, as well as certain types of baskets and candy dishes. I also use this method to make all of my candle tray patterns, as I like the edge design raised up a bit from the center that the candle sits on.
> 
> For our purposes, in this lesson we are going to explore making bevel cuts to create a self-framing plaque. I like designing and cutting self-framing plaques because as the name implies, the frame is cut from the same piece of wood as the design.
> 
> Many of you may not have realized that the practice frame pattern I gave you to scroll saw in lesson 7 is part of self-framing butterfly plaque that I designed. Although I gave you the pattern for the outside fretwork of the frame, I left out the central picture in the middle because I didn't want you to jump ahead. I have now posted the full pattern for you and you can download it HERE.
> 
> Please go to my Google Document account and download it now. If you already did the frame, just cut the inner portion of the design out and apply it to the frame as I instructed before (using blue painter's tape underneath) If you finished cutting the fretwork border of the frame from the last lesson and have left the pattern in place, you could just stick the inner portion of the pattern over the existing pattern and go from there.
> 
> For the sample plaque, I used 1/2" maple and I angled the saw 4 degrees to the outside of the circle. Since I cut my piece in a clockwise direction, I tilted the head of my Excalibur scroll saw to the right that amount. If you were using a scroll saw such as a DeWalt, in which the table tilts, you would tilt the saw table so that the left side of the table is lower than the right side, causing the angle of the blade to be radiating outward from the center of the plaque.
> 
> I have made some drawings to help you understand what we are doing here. It shows a typical piece of this type from a cut away side view. The center portion represents the center of the plaque, while the two outside sections represent the frame. The red lines are the kerf lines left from your saw blade, angled to the outside of the piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although these drawings are somewhat exaggerated to better illustrate the point, the second drawing shows the space that is left from the blade, or the kerf. This is why it is important to consider not only the angle of the cut, but also the blade size. If you wish the piece to drop down a bit farther into the frame, simply use a larger blade with a wider kerf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the piece is cut, you can push it into the frame and lock in, leaving the frame protruding to the front. The frame can and should be glued to keep it in place once all the cutting is finished. I also found that it look quite nice if you slightly round over the inside edge of the frame with a router or laminate trimmer and a small round over bit. (Do this before gluing naturally!)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you wish to have less of a drop of the piece, simply increase the angle by half a degree or so. The increased angle will not allow the center to drop as far through the frame.
> 
> I strongly suggest that you test your angle and blade size on a scrap of wood that is the same thickness as the piece you are cutting. For plaques such as this, I frequently use the waste areas from the corners for testing. Simply draw a small circle and cut a test cut at the given angle and then adjust your saw accordingly. it is better to be safe than ruin a nice piece of wood.
> 
> I made a short video of me demonstrating how I adjust my saw and also of me cutting the circle. You can see how easy it is to do on my saw, as the table is still level and I don't have to fight gravity to turn the wood while it is on an angle. However, I owned a DeWalt saw for almost 15 years and the angle is so slight in cutting like this that it isn't really a factor. Enjoy the video:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=-w_R1rA59c4
> 
> I have used this method with many different scroll sawn pieces, from pictures to baskets (like the one that Leldon cut here) and also on small items such as ornaments. This process really makes it easy to make an all-inclusive project and not have to worry about purchasing or making a frame for it. Once you try it, I am sure you will become a big fan of bevel cutting on the scroll saw!
> 
> Please feel free to ask me any questions you may have about this process. I will always try to be here to help you and I am sure that others on this forum will help with answers too.


You are very welcome, Joe. Cutting bevels seems intimidating to some, but it is really quite easy and opens so many opportunities to create different kinds of projects. I think it is something that everyone should try.

I am glad you like the lesson. 

Sheila


----------



## huntter2022

scrollgirl said:


> *Lesson 9 - Cutting Bevels on the Scroll Saw*
> 
> Well, you all should have had time to practice cutting all the inside curves and corners on the frames of the practice patterns that I gave you in the previous lessons. Now we should all be ready to move on to learning how to cut on a bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the reasons that I like the scroll saw so much is because it is a very versatile tool. For a relatively minimal start up cost, you can get a tool that has the ability to make a great variety of projects. For many years, my scroll saw and drill press were pretty much the only power tools I owned. Yet, I was still able to create lots of wonderful things using them. With the addition of a few other small hand tools, such as a sander and a small router or laminate trimmer, it opens up a whole array of exciting techniques you can use to make your projects more interesting and fun.
> 
> Most scroll saws have the ability to make bevel or angled cuts. This is typically achieved by tilting the table of the saw either to the left or the right so that the blade is cutting on an angle. Some saws, like the Excalibur saw (the one I have) allows you to tilt the head of the saw and keeps the table flat. This makes is much easier for you to cut on an angle, as you don't have to worry about holding the piece at an angle when you are cutting, and you can concentrate on the cut at hand.
> 
> While tilting the blade is possible, I wouldn't advise you to do so in order to make miters and things that need precise angles. Since the blades are so thin on the scroll saw, they will flex while cutting, creating cuts that are not perfectly straight. This makes it nearly impossible to make a clean miter joint.
> 
> However, bevel cutting on the scroll saw can be very useful to create things like self-framing plaques and ornaments, as well as certain types of baskets and candy dishes. I also use this method to make all of my candle tray patterns, as I like the edge design raised up a bit from the center that the candle sits on.
> 
> For our purposes, in this lesson we are going to explore making bevel cuts to create a self-framing plaque. I like designing and cutting self-framing plaques because as the name implies, the frame is cut from the same piece of wood as the design.
> 
> Many of you may not have realized that the practice frame pattern I gave you to scroll saw in lesson 7 is part of self-framing butterfly plaque that I designed. Although I gave you the pattern for the outside fretwork of the frame, I left out the central picture in the middle because I didn't want you to jump ahead. I have now posted the full pattern for you and you can download it HERE.
> 
> Please go to my Google Document account and download it now. If you already did the frame, just cut the inner portion of the design out and apply it to the frame as I instructed before (using blue painter's tape underneath) If you finished cutting the fretwork border of the frame from the last lesson and have left the pattern in place, you could just stick the inner portion of the pattern over the existing pattern and go from there.
> 
> For the sample plaque, I used 1/2" maple and I angled the saw 4 degrees to the outside of the circle. Since I cut my piece in a clockwise direction, I tilted the head of my Excalibur scroll saw to the right that amount. If you were using a scroll saw such as a DeWalt, in which the table tilts, you would tilt the saw table so that the left side of the table is lower than the right side, causing the angle of the blade to be radiating outward from the center of the plaque.
> 
> I have made some drawings to help you understand what we are doing here. It shows a typical piece of this type from a cut away side view. The center portion represents the center of the plaque, while the two outside sections represent the frame. The red lines are the kerf lines left from your saw blade, angled to the outside of the piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although these drawings are somewhat exaggerated to better illustrate the point, the second drawing shows the space that is left from the blade, or the kerf. This is why it is important to consider not only the angle of the cut, but also the blade size. If you wish the piece to drop down a bit farther into the frame, simply use a larger blade with a wider kerf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the piece is cut, you can push it into the frame and lock in, leaving the frame protruding to the front. The frame can and should be glued to keep it in place once all the cutting is finished. I also found that it look quite nice if you slightly round over the inside edge of the frame with a router or laminate trimmer and a small round over bit. (Do this before gluing naturally!)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you wish to have less of a drop of the piece, simply increase the angle by half a degree or so. The increased angle will not allow the center to drop as far through the frame.
> 
> I strongly suggest that you test your angle and blade size on a scrap of wood that is the same thickness as the piece you are cutting. For plaques such as this, I frequently use the waste areas from the corners for testing. Simply draw a small circle and cut a test cut at the given angle and then adjust your saw accordingly. it is better to be safe than ruin a nice piece of wood.
> 
> I made a short video of me demonstrating how I adjust my saw and also of me cutting the circle. You can see how easy it is to do on my saw, as the table is still level and I don't have to fight gravity to turn the wood while it is on an angle. However, I owned a DeWalt saw for almost 15 years and the angle is so slight in cutting like this that it isn't really a factor. Enjoy the video:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=-w_R1rA59c4
> 
> I have used this method with many different scroll sawn pieces, from pictures to baskets (like the one that Leldon cut here) and also on small items such as ornaments. This process really makes it easy to make an all-inclusive project and not have to worry about purchasing or making a frame for it. Once you try it, I am sure you will become a big fan of bevel cutting on the scroll saw!
> 
> Please feel free to ask me any questions you may have about this process. I will always try to be here to help you and I am sure that others on this forum will help with answers too.


Great job on the lesson and video !
Bevel cutting can be scary , but give it a try and take your time , your not in a race you will get faster with more experence 
You will open another world of scrolling 
Thank You Shelia !

David


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Lesson 9 - Cutting Bevels on the Scroll Saw*
> 
> Well, you all should have had time to practice cutting all the inside curves and corners on the frames of the practice patterns that I gave you in the previous lessons. Now we should all be ready to move on to learning how to cut on a bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the reasons that I like the scroll saw so much is because it is a very versatile tool. For a relatively minimal start up cost, you can get a tool that has the ability to make a great variety of projects. For many years, my scroll saw and drill press were pretty much the only power tools I owned. Yet, I was still able to create lots of wonderful things using them. With the addition of a few other small hand tools, such as a sander and a small router or laminate trimmer, it opens up a whole array of exciting techniques you can use to make your projects more interesting and fun.
> 
> Most scroll saws have the ability to make bevel or angled cuts. This is typically achieved by tilting the table of the saw either to the left or the right so that the blade is cutting on an angle. Some saws, like the Excalibur saw (the one I have) allows you to tilt the head of the saw and keeps the table flat. This makes is much easier for you to cut on an angle, as you don't have to worry about holding the piece at an angle when you are cutting, and you can concentrate on the cut at hand.
> 
> While tilting the blade is possible, I wouldn't advise you to do so in order to make miters and things that need precise angles. Since the blades are so thin on the scroll saw, they will flex while cutting, creating cuts that are not perfectly straight. This makes it nearly impossible to make a clean miter joint.
> 
> However, bevel cutting on the scroll saw can be very useful to create things like self-framing plaques and ornaments, as well as certain types of baskets and candy dishes. I also use this method to make all of my candle tray patterns, as I like the edge design raised up a bit from the center that the candle sits on.
> 
> For our purposes, in this lesson we are going to explore making bevel cuts to create a self-framing plaque. I like designing and cutting self-framing plaques because as the name implies, the frame is cut from the same piece of wood as the design.
> 
> Many of you may not have realized that the practice frame pattern I gave you to scroll saw in lesson 7 is part of self-framing butterfly plaque that I designed. Although I gave you the pattern for the outside fretwork of the frame, I left out the central picture in the middle because I didn't want you to jump ahead. I have now posted the full pattern for you and you can download it HERE.
> 
> Please go to my Google Document account and download it now. If you already did the frame, just cut the inner portion of the design out and apply it to the frame as I instructed before (using blue painter's tape underneath) If you finished cutting the fretwork border of the frame from the last lesson and have left the pattern in place, you could just stick the inner portion of the pattern over the existing pattern and go from there.
> 
> For the sample plaque, I used 1/2" maple and I angled the saw 4 degrees to the outside of the circle. Since I cut my piece in a clockwise direction, I tilted the head of my Excalibur scroll saw to the right that amount. If you were using a scroll saw such as a DeWalt, in which the table tilts, you would tilt the saw table so that the left side of the table is lower than the right side, causing the angle of the blade to be radiating outward from the center of the plaque.
> 
> I have made some drawings to help you understand what we are doing here. It shows a typical piece of this type from a cut away side view. The center portion represents the center of the plaque, while the two outside sections represent the frame. The red lines are the kerf lines left from your saw blade, angled to the outside of the piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although these drawings are somewhat exaggerated to better illustrate the point, the second drawing shows the space that is left from the blade, or the kerf. This is why it is important to consider not only the angle of the cut, but also the blade size. If you wish the piece to drop down a bit farther into the frame, simply use a larger blade with a wider kerf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the piece is cut, you can push it into the frame and lock in, leaving the frame protruding to the front. The frame can and should be glued to keep it in place once all the cutting is finished. I also found that it look quite nice if you slightly round over the inside edge of the frame with a router or laminate trimmer and a small round over bit. (Do this before gluing naturally!)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you wish to have less of a drop of the piece, simply increase the angle by half a degree or so. The increased angle will not allow the center to drop as far through the frame.
> 
> I strongly suggest that you test your angle and blade size on a scrap of wood that is the same thickness as the piece you are cutting. For plaques such as this, I frequently use the waste areas from the corners for testing. Simply draw a small circle and cut a test cut at the given angle and then adjust your saw accordingly. it is better to be safe than ruin a nice piece of wood.
> 
> I made a short video of me demonstrating how I adjust my saw and also of me cutting the circle. You can see how easy it is to do on my saw, as the table is still level and I don't have to fight gravity to turn the wood while it is on an angle. However, I owned a DeWalt saw for almost 15 years and the angle is so slight in cutting like this that it isn't really a factor. Enjoy the video:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=-w_R1rA59c4
> 
> I have used this method with many different scroll sawn pieces, from pictures to baskets (like the one that Leldon cut here) and also on small items such as ornaments. This process really makes it easy to make an all-inclusive project and not have to worry about purchasing or making a frame for it. Once you try it, I am sure you will become a big fan of bevel cutting on the scroll saw!
> 
> Please feel free to ask me any questions you may have about this process. I will always try to be here to help you and I am sure that others on this forum will help with answers too.


Thanks, Dave! 

Sheila


----------



## JoeLyddon

scrollgirl said:


> *Lesson 9 - Cutting Bevels on the Scroll Saw*
> 
> Well, you all should have had time to practice cutting all the inside curves and corners on the frames of the practice patterns that I gave you in the previous lessons. Now we should all be ready to move on to learning how to cut on a bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the reasons that I like the scroll saw so much is because it is a very versatile tool. For a relatively minimal start up cost, you can get a tool that has the ability to make a great variety of projects. For many years, my scroll saw and drill press were pretty much the only power tools I owned. Yet, I was still able to create lots of wonderful things using them. With the addition of a few other small hand tools, such as a sander and a small router or laminate trimmer, it opens up a whole array of exciting techniques you can use to make your projects more interesting and fun.
> 
> Most scroll saws have the ability to make bevel or angled cuts. This is typically achieved by tilting the table of the saw either to the left or the right so that the blade is cutting on an angle. Some saws, like the Excalibur saw (the one I have) allows you to tilt the head of the saw and keeps the table flat. This makes is much easier for you to cut on an angle, as you don't have to worry about holding the piece at an angle when you are cutting, and you can concentrate on the cut at hand.
> 
> While tilting the blade is possible, I wouldn't advise you to do so in order to make miters and things that need precise angles. Since the blades are so thin on the scroll saw, they will flex while cutting, creating cuts that are not perfectly straight. This makes it nearly impossible to make a clean miter joint.
> 
> However, bevel cutting on the scroll saw can be very useful to create things like self-framing plaques and ornaments, as well as certain types of baskets and candy dishes. I also use this method to make all of my candle tray patterns, as I like the edge design raised up a bit from the center that the candle sits on.
> 
> For our purposes, in this lesson we are going to explore making bevel cuts to create a self-framing plaque. I like designing and cutting self-framing plaques because as the name implies, the frame is cut from the same piece of wood as the design.
> 
> Many of you may not have realized that the practice frame pattern I gave you to scroll saw in lesson 7 is part of self-framing butterfly plaque that I designed. Although I gave you the pattern for the outside fretwork of the frame, I left out the central picture in the middle because I didn't want you to jump ahead. I have now posted the full pattern for you and you can download it HERE.
> 
> Please go to my Google Document account and download it now. If you already did the frame, just cut the inner portion of the design out and apply it to the frame as I instructed before (using blue painter's tape underneath) If you finished cutting the fretwork border of the frame from the last lesson and have left the pattern in place, you could just stick the inner portion of the pattern over the existing pattern and go from there.
> 
> For the sample plaque, I used 1/2" maple and I angled the saw 4 degrees to the outside of the circle. Since I cut my piece in a clockwise direction, I tilted the head of my Excalibur scroll saw to the right that amount. If you were using a scroll saw such as a DeWalt, in which the table tilts, you would tilt the saw table so that the left side of the table is lower than the right side, causing the angle of the blade to be radiating outward from the center of the plaque.
> 
> I have made some drawings to help you understand what we are doing here. It shows a typical piece of this type from a cut away side view. The center portion represents the center of the plaque, while the two outside sections represent the frame. The red lines are the kerf lines left from your saw blade, angled to the outside of the piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although these drawings are somewhat exaggerated to better illustrate the point, the second drawing shows the space that is left from the blade, or the kerf. This is why it is important to consider not only the angle of the cut, but also the blade size. If you wish the piece to drop down a bit farther into the frame, simply use a larger blade with a wider kerf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the piece is cut, you can push it into the frame and lock in, leaving the frame protruding to the front. The frame can and should be glued to keep it in place once all the cutting is finished. I also found that it look quite nice if you slightly round over the inside edge of the frame with a router or laminate trimmer and a small round over bit. (Do this before gluing naturally!)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you wish to have less of a drop of the piece, simply increase the angle by half a degree or so. The increased angle will not allow the center to drop as far through the frame.
> 
> I strongly suggest that you test your angle and blade size on a scrap of wood that is the same thickness as the piece you are cutting. For plaques such as this, I frequently use the waste areas from the corners for testing. Simply draw a small circle and cut a test cut at the given angle and then adjust your saw accordingly. it is better to be safe than ruin a nice piece of wood.
> 
> I made a short video of me demonstrating how I adjust my saw and also of me cutting the circle. You can see how easy it is to do on my saw, as the table is still level and I don't have to fight gravity to turn the wood while it is on an angle. However, I owned a DeWalt saw for almost 15 years and the angle is so slight in cutting like this that it isn't really a factor. Enjoy the video:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=-w_R1rA59c4
> 
> I have used this method with many different scroll sawn pieces, from pictures to baskets (like the one that Leldon cut here) and also on small items such as ornaments. This process really makes it easy to make an all-inclusive project and not have to worry about purchasing or making a frame for it. Once you try it, I am sure you will become a big fan of bevel cutting on the scroll saw!
> 
> Please feel free to ask me any questions you may have about this process. I will always try to be here to help you and I am sure that others on this forum will help with answers too.


Sheila,

I only know the theory… It would be intimidating to me too… until I tried it… to get my fingers & hands working on it… LOL

Thanks again…


----------



## RegisG

scrollgirl said:


> *Lesson 9 - Cutting Bevels on the Scroll Saw*
> 
> Well, you all should have had time to practice cutting all the inside curves and corners on the frames of the practice patterns that I gave you in the previous lessons. Now we should all be ready to move on to learning how to cut on a bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the reasons that I like the scroll saw so much is because it is a very versatile tool. For a relatively minimal start up cost, you can get a tool that has the ability to make a great variety of projects. For many years, my scroll saw and drill press were pretty much the only power tools I owned. Yet, I was still able to create lots of wonderful things using them. With the addition of a few other small hand tools, such as a sander and a small router or laminate trimmer, it opens up a whole array of exciting techniques you can use to make your projects more interesting and fun.
> 
> Most scroll saws have the ability to make bevel or angled cuts. This is typically achieved by tilting the table of the saw either to the left or the right so that the blade is cutting on an angle. Some saws, like the Excalibur saw (the one I have) allows you to tilt the head of the saw and keeps the table flat. This makes is much easier for you to cut on an angle, as you don't have to worry about holding the piece at an angle when you are cutting, and you can concentrate on the cut at hand.
> 
> While tilting the blade is possible, I wouldn't advise you to do so in order to make miters and things that need precise angles. Since the blades are so thin on the scroll saw, they will flex while cutting, creating cuts that are not perfectly straight. This makes it nearly impossible to make a clean miter joint.
> 
> However, bevel cutting on the scroll saw can be very useful to create things like self-framing plaques and ornaments, as well as certain types of baskets and candy dishes. I also use this method to make all of my candle tray patterns, as I like the edge design raised up a bit from the center that the candle sits on.
> 
> For our purposes, in this lesson we are going to explore making bevel cuts to create a self-framing plaque. I like designing and cutting self-framing plaques because as the name implies, the frame is cut from the same piece of wood as the design.
> 
> Many of you may not have realized that the practice frame pattern I gave you to scroll saw in lesson 7 is part of self-framing butterfly plaque that I designed. Although I gave you the pattern for the outside fretwork of the frame, I left out the central picture in the middle because I didn't want you to jump ahead. I have now posted the full pattern for you and you can download it HERE.
> 
> Please go to my Google Document account and download it now. If you already did the frame, just cut the inner portion of the design out and apply it to the frame as I instructed before (using blue painter's tape underneath) If you finished cutting the fretwork border of the frame from the last lesson and have left the pattern in place, you could just stick the inner portion of the pattern over the existing pattern and go from there.
> 
> For the sample plaque, I used 1/2" maple and I angled the saw 4 degrees to the outside of the circle. Since I cut my piece in a clockwise direction, I tilted the head of my Excalibur scroll saw to the right that amount. If you were using a scroll saw such as a DeWalt, in which the table tilts, you would tilt the saw table so that the left side of the table is lower than the right side, causing the angle of the blade to be radiating outward from the center of the plaque.
> 
> I have made some drawings to help you understand what we are doing here. It shows a typical piece of this type from a cut away side view. The center portion represents the center of the plaque, while the two outside sections represent the frame. The red lines are the kerf lines left from your saw blade, angled to the outside of the piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although these drawings are somewhat exaggerated to better illustrate the point, the second drawing shows the space that is left from the blade, or the kerf. This is why it is important to consider not only the angle of the cut, but also the blade size. If you wish the piece to drop down a bit farther into the frame, simply use a larger blade with a wider kerf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the piece is cut, you can push it into the frame and lock in, leaving the frame protruding to the front. The frame can and should be glued to keep it in place once all the cutting is finished. I also found that it look quite nice if you slightly round over the inside edge of the frame with a router or laminate trimmer and a small round over bit. (Do this before gluing naturally!)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you wish to have less of a drop of the piece, simply increase the angle by half a degree or so. The increased angle will not allow the center to drop as far through the frame.
> 
> I strongly suggest that you test your angle and blade size on a scrap of wood that is the same thickness as the piece you are cutting. For plaques such as this, I frequently use the waste areas from the corners for testing. Simply draw a small circle and cut a test cut at the given angle and then adjust your saw accordingly. it is better to be safe than ruin a nice piece of wood.
> 
> I made a short video of me demonstrating how I adjust my saw and also of me cutting the circle. You can see how easy it is to do on my saw, as the table is still level and I don't have to fight gravity to turn the wood while it is on an angle. However, I owned a DeWalt saw for almost 15 years and the angle is so slight in cutting like this that it isn't really a factor. Enjoy the video:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=-w_R1rA59c4
> 
> I have used this method with many different scroll sawn pieces, from pictures to baskets (like the one that Leldon cut here) and also on small items such as ornaments. This process really makes it easy to make an all-inclusive project and not have to worry about purchasing or making a frame for it. Once you try it, I am sure you will become a big fan of bevel cutting on the scroll saw!
> 
> Please feel free to ask me any questions you may have about this process. I will always try to be here to help you and I am sure that others on this forum will help with answers too.


Sheila,
First, thanks for the video's. Does the self framing procedure work the same for rectangular frames? I'm doing a lion head with a clock insert in lower corner ad think that it would just make it a little more distinguisned if I set it back slightly in its own frame. I have an extra inch, or so aroung the main design that I was going to trim off with table saw until I watched this video.

Thanks again,
Regis


----------



## huntter2022

scrollgirl said:


> *Lesson 9 - Cutting Bevels on the Scroll Saw*
> 
> Well, you all should have had time to practice cutting all the inside curves and corners on the frames of the practice patterns that I gave you in the previous lessons. Now we should all be ready to move on to learning how to cut on a bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the reasons that I like the scroll saw so much is because it is a very versatile tool. For a relatively minimal start up cost, you can get a tool that has the ability to make a great variety of projects. For many years, my scroll saw and drill press were pretty much the only power tools I owned. Yet, I was still able to create lots of wonderful things using them. With the addition of a few other small hand tools, such as a sander and a small router or laminate trimmer, it opens up a whole array of exciting techniques you can use to make your projects more interesting and fun.
> 
> Most scroll saws have the ability to make bevel or angled cuts. This is typically achieved by tilting the table of the saw either to the left or the right so that the blade is cutting on an angle. Some saws, like the Excalibur saw (the one I have) allows you to tilt the head of the saw and keeps the table flat. This makes is much easier for you to cut on an angle, as you don't have to worry about holding the piece at an angle when you are cutting, and you can concentrate on the cut at hand.
> 
> While tilting the blade is possible, I wouldn't advise you to do so in order to make miters and things that need precise angles. Since the blades are so thin on the scroll saw, they will flex while cutting, creating cuts that are not perfectly straight. This makes it nearly impossible to make a clean miter joint.
> 
> However, bevel cutting on the scroll saw can be very useful to create things like self-framing plaques and ornaments, as well as certain types of baskets and candy dishes. I also use this method to make all of my candle tray patterns, as I like the edge design raised up a bit from the center that the candle sits on.
> 
> For our purposes, in this lesson we are going to explore making bevel cuts to create a self-framing plaque. I like designing and cutting self-framing plaques because as the name implies, the frame is cut from the same piece of wood as the design.
> 
> Many of you may not have realized that the practice frame pattern I gave you to scroll saw in lesson 7 is part of self-framing butterfly plaque that I designed. Although I gave you the pattern for the outside fretwork of the frame, I left out the central picture in the middle because I didn't want you to jump ahead. I have now posted the full pattern for you and you can download it HERE.
> 
> Please go to my Google Document account and download it now. If you already did the frame, just cut the inner portion of the design out and apply it to the frame as I instructed before (using blue painter's tape underneath) If you finished cutting the fretwork border of the frame from the last lesson and have left the pattern in place, you could just stick the inner portion of the pattern over the existing pattern and go from there.
> 
> For the sample plaque, I used 1/2" maple and I angled the saw 4 degrees to the outside of the circle. Since I cut my piece in a clockwise direction, I tilted the head of my Excalibur scroll saw to the right that amount. If you were using a scroll saw such as a DeWalt, in which the table tilts, you would tilt the saw table so that the left side of the table is lower than the right side, causing the angle of the blade to be radiating outward from the center of the plaque.
> 
> I have made some drawings to help you understand what we are doing here. It shows a typical piece of this type from a cut away side view. The center portion represents the center of the plaque, while the two outside sections represent the frame. The red lines are the kerf lines left from your saw blade, angled to the outside of the piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although these drawings are somewhat exaggerated to better illustrate the point, the second drawing shows the space that is left from the blade, or the kerf. This is why it is important to consider not only the angle of the cut, but also the blade size. If you wish the piece to drop down a bit farther into the frame, simply use a larger blade with a wider kerf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the piece is cut, you can push it into the frame and lock in, leaving the frame protruding to the front. The frame can and should be glued to keep it in place once all the cutting is finished. I also found that it look quite nice if you slightly round over the inside edge of the frame with a router or laminate trimmer and a small round over bit. (Do this before gluing naturally!)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you wish to have less of a drop of the piece, simply increase the angle by half a degree or so. The increased angle will not allow the center to drop as far through the frame.
> 
> I strongly suggest that you test your angle and blade size on a scrap of wood that is the same thickness as the piece you are cutting. For plaques such as this, I frequently use the waste areas from the corners for testing. Simply draw a small circle and cut a test cut at the given angle and then adjust your saw accordingly. it is better to be safe than ruin a nice piece of wood.
> 
> I made a short video of me demonstrating how I adjust my saw and also of me cutting the circle. You can see how easy it is to do on my saw, as the table is still level and I don't have to fight gravity to turn the wood while it is on an angle. However, I owned a DeWalt saw for almost 15 years and the angle is so slight in cutting like this that it isn't really a factor. Enjoy the video:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=-w_R1rA59c4
> 
> I have used this method with many different scroll sawn pieces, from pictures to baskets (like the one that Leldon cut here) and also on small items such as ornaments. This process really makes it easy to make an all-inclusive project and not have to worry about purchasing or making a frame for it. Once you try it, I am sure you will become a big fan of bevel cutting on the scroll saw!
> 
> Please feel free to ask me any questions you may have about this process. I will always try to be here to help you and I am sure that others on this forum will help with answers too.


Hi Regis !

I'm not Sheila , but yes you could use self framing procedure for rectangular (bevel Cut)


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Lesson 9 - Cutting Bevels on the Scroll Saw*
> 
> Well, you all should have had time to practice cutting all the inside curves and corners on the frames of the practice patterns that I gave you in the previous lessons. Now we should all be ready to move on to learning how to cut on a bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the reasons that I like the scroll saw so much is because it is a very versatile tool. For a relatively minimal start up cost, you can get a tool that has the ability to make a great variety of projects. For many years, my scroll saw and drill press were pretty much the only power tools I owned. Yet, I was still able to create lots of wonderful things using them. With the addition of a few other small hand tools, such as a sander and a small router or laminate trimmer, it opens up a whole array of exciting techniques you can use to make your projects more interesting and fun.
> 
> Most scroll saws have the ability to make bevel or angled cuts. This is typically achieved by tilting the table of the saw either to the left or the right so that the blade is cutting on an angle. Some saws, like the Excalibur saw (the one I have) allows you to tilt the head of the saw and keeps the table flat. This makes is much easier for you to cut on an angle, as you don't have to worry about holding the piece at an angle when you are cutting, and you can concentrate on the cut at hand.
> 
> While tilting the blade is possible, I wouldn't advise you to do so in order to make miters and things that need precise angles. Since the blades are so thin on the scroll saw, they will flex while cutting, creating cuts that are not perfectly straight. This makes it nearly impossible to make a clean miter joint.
> 
> However, bevel cutting on the scroll saw can be very useful to create things like self-framing plaques and ornaments, as well as certain types of baskets and candy dishes. I also use this method to make all of my candle tray patterns, as I like the edge design raised up a bit from the center that the candle sits on.
> 
> For our purposes, in this lesson we are going to explore making bevel cuts to create a self-framing plaque. I like designing and cutting self-framing plaques because as the name implies, the frame is cut from the same piece of wood as the design.
> 
> Many of you may not have realized that the practice frame pattern I gave you to scroll saw in lesson 7 is part of self-framing butterfly plaque that I designed. Although I gave you the pattern for the outside fretwork of the frame, I left out the central picture in the middle because I didn't want you to jump ahead. I have now posted the full pattern for you and you can download it HERE.
> 
> Please go to my Google Document account and download it now. If you already did the frame, just cut the inner portion of the design out and apply it to the frame as I instructed before (using blue painter's tape underneath) If you finished cutting the fretwork border of the frame from the last lesson and have left the pattern in place, you could just stick the inner portion of the pattern over the existing pattern and go from there.
> 
> For the sample plaque, I used 1/2" maple and I angled the saw 4 degrees to the outside of the circle. Since I cut my piece in a clockwise direction, I tilted the head of my Excalibur scroll saw to the right that amount. If you were using a scroll saw such as a DeWalt, in which the table tilts, you would tilt the saw table so that the left side of the table is lower than the right side, causing the angle of the blade to be radiating outward from the center of the plaque.
> 
> I have made some drawings to help you understand what we are doing here. It shows a typical piece of this type from a cut away side view. The center portion represents the center of the plaque, while the two outside sections represent the frame. The red lines are the kerf lines left from your saw blade, angled to the outside of the piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although these drawings are somewhat exaggerated to better illustrate the point, the second drawing shows the space that is left from the blade, or the kerf. This is why it is important to consider not only the angle of the cut, but also the blade size. If you wish the piece to drop down a bit farther into the frame, simply use a larger blade with a wider kerf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the piece is cut, you can push it into the frame and lock in, leaving the frame protruding to the front. The frame can and should be glued to keep it in place once all the cutting is finished. I also found that it look quite nice if you slightly round over the inside edge of the frame with a router or laminate trimmer and a small round over bit. (Do this before gluing naturally!)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you wish to have less of a drop of the piece, simply increase the angle by half a degree or so. The increased angle will not allow the center to drop as far through the frame.
> 
> I strongly suggest that you test your angle and blade size on a scrap of wood that is the same thickness as the piece you are cutting. For plaques such as this, I frequently use the waste areas from the corners for testing. Simply draw a small circle and cut a test cut at the given angle and then adjust your saw accordingly. it is better to be safe than ruin a nice piece of wood.
> 
> I made a short video of me demonstrating how I adjust my saw and also of me cutting the circle. You can see how easy it is to do on my saw, as the table is still level and I don't have to fight gravity to turn the wood while it is on an angle. However, I owned a DeWalt saw for almost 15 years and the angle is so slight in cutting like this that it isn't really a factor. Enjoy the video:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=-w_R1rA59c4
> 
> I have used this method with many different scroll sawn pieces, from pictures to baskets (like the one that Leldon cut here) and also on small items such as ornaments. This process really makes it easy to make an all-inclusive project and not have to worry about purchasing or making a frame for it. Once you try it, I am sure you will become a big fan of bevel cutting on the scroll saw!
> 
> Please feel free to ask me any questions you may have about this process. I will always try to be here to help you and I am sure that others on this forum will help with answers too.


Thanks, David! I meant to answer this earlier today!

Yes, Regis, you can use the procedure for many different shapes. The trick is that you can't have the curves too sharp (such as sharp corners or angles) If you keep the curves rounded and gentle, there should be no problem at all with applying this technique to many different projects. For doing a square or rectangle, just be sure that the corners are slightly rounded and you should be fine.

Let us know how you do, please! 

Sheila


----------



## RegisG

scrollgirl said:


> *Lesson 9 - Cutting Bevels on the Scroll Saw*
> 
> Well, you all should have had time to practice cutting all the inside curves and corners on the frames of the practice patterns that I gave you in the previous lessons. Now we should all be ready to move on to learning how to cut on a bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the reasons that I like the scroll saw so much is because it is a very versatile tool. For a relatively minimal start up cost, you can get a tool that has the ability to make a great variety of projects. For many years, my scroll saw and drill press were pretty much the only power tools I owned. Yet, I was still able to create lots of wonderful things using them. With the addition of a few other small hand tools, such as a sander and a small router or laminate trimmer, it opens up a whole array of exciting techniques you can use to make your projects more interesting and fun.
> 
> Most scroll saws have the ability to make bevel or angled cuts. This is typically achieved by tilting the table of the saw either to the left or the right so that the blade is cutting on an angle. Some saws, like the Excalibur saw (the one I have) allows you to tilt the head of the saw and keeps the table flat. This makes is much easier for you to cut on an angle, as you don't have to worry about holding the piece at an angle when you are cutting, and you can concentrate on the cut at hand.
> 
> While tilting the blade is possible, I wouldn't advise you to do so in order to make miters and things that need precise angles. Since the blades are so thin on the scroll saw, they will flex while cutting, creating cuts that are not perfectly straight. This makes it nearly impossible to make a clean miter joint.
> 
> However, bevel cutting on the scroll saw can be very useful to create things like self-framing plaques and ornaments, as well as certain types of baskets and candy dishes. I also use this method to make all of my candle tray patterns, as I like the edge design raised up a bit from the center that the candle sits on.
> 
> For our purposes, in this lesson we are going to explore making bevel cuts to create a self-framing plaque. I like designing and cutting self-framing plaques because as the name implies, the frame is cut from the same piece of wood as the design.
> 
> Many of you may not have realized that the practice frame pattern I gave you to scroll saw in lesson 7 is part of self-framing butterfly plaque that I designed. Although I gave you the pattern for the outside fretwork of the frame, I left out the central picture in the middle because I didn't want you to jump ahead. I have now posted the full pattern for you and you can download it HERE.
> 
> Please go to my Google Document account and download it now. If you already did the frame, just cut the inner portion of the design out and apply it to the frame as I instructed before (using blue painter's tape underneath) If you finished cutting the fretwork border of the frame from the last lesson and have left the pattern in place, you could just stick the inner portion of the pattern over the existing pattern and go from there.
> 
> For the sample plaque, I used 1/2" maple and I angled the saw 4 degrees to the outside of the circle. Since I cut my piece in a clockwise direction, I tilted the head of my Excalibur scroll saw to the right that amount. If you were using a scroll saw such as a DeWalt, in which the table tilts, you would tilt the saw table so that the left side of the table is lower than the right side, causing the angle of the blade to be radiating outward from the center of the plaque.
> 
> I have made some drawings to help you understand what we are doing here. It shows a typical piece of this type from a cut away side view. The center portion represents the center of the plaque, while the two outside sections represent the frame. The red lines are the kerf lines left from your saw blade, angled to the outside of the piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although these drawings are somewhat exaggerated to better illustrate the point, the second drawing shows the space that is left from the blade, or the kerf. This is why it is important to consider not only the angle of the cut, but also the blade size. If you wish the piece to drop down a bit farther into the frame, simply use a larger blade with a wider kerf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the piece is cut, you can push it into the frame and lock in, leaving the frame protruding to the front. The frame can and should be glued to keep it in place once all the cutting is finished. I also found that it look quite nice if you slightly round over the inside edge of the frame with a router or laminate trimmer and a small round over bit. (Do this before gluing naturally!)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you wish to have less of a drop of the piece, simply increase the angle by half a degree or so. The increased angle will not allow the center to drop as far through the frame.
> 
> I strongly suggest that you test your angle and blade size on a scrap of wood that is the same thickness as the piece you are cutting. For plaques such as this, I frequently use the waste areas from the corners for testing. Simply draw a small circle and cut a test cut at the given angle and then adjust your saw accordingly. it is better to be safe than ruin a nice piece of wood.
> 
> I made a short video of me demonstrating how I adjust my saw and also of me cutting the circle. You can see how easy it is to do on my saw, as the table is still level and I don't have to fight gravity to turn the wood while it is on an angle. However, I owned a DeWalt saw for almost 15 years and the angle is so slight in cutting like this that it isn't really a factor. Enjoy the video:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=-w_R1rA59c4
> 
> I have used this method with many different scroll sawn pieces, from pictures to baskets (like the one that Leldon cut here) and also on small items such as ornaments. This process really makes it easy to make an all-inclusive project and not have to worry about purchasing or making a frame for it. Once you try it, I am sure you will become a big fan of bevel cutting on the scroll saw!
> 
> Please feel free to ask me any questions you may have about this process. I will always try to be here to help you and I am sure that others on this forum will help with answers too.


That's good to know because I surely would have made sharp square corners. I'll takc small scrap of similar thickness and try. One other thought that I had is actually the opposite. Reverse the whole thing so the lion head with clock stick out sllightly from the front (frame slightly back). The lion head is symetrical so, theoretically, I guess it will work. No painting here, just tung oil.

Thank you very much.
Regis


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Lesson 9 - Cutting Bevels on the Scroll Saw*
> 
> Well, you all should have had time to practice cutting all the inside curves and corners on the frames of the practice patterns that I gave you in the previous lessons. Now we should all be ready to move on to learning how to cut on a bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the reasons that I like the scroll saw so much is because it is a very versatile tool. For a relatively minimal start up cost, you can get a tool that has the ability to make a great variety of projects. For many years, my scroll saw and drill press were pretty much the only power tools I owned. Yet, I was still able to create lots of wonderful things using them. With the addition of a few other small hand tools, such as a sander and a small router or laminate trimmer, it opens up a whole array of exciting techniques you can use to make your projects more interesting and fun.
> 
> Most scroll saws have the ability to make bevel or angled cuts. This is typically achieved by tilting the table of the saw either to the left or the right so that the blade is cutting on an angle. Some saws, like the Excalibur saw (the one I have) allows you to tilt the head of the saw and keeps the table flat. This makes is much easier for you to cut on an angle, as you don't have to worry about holding the piece at an angle when you are cutting, and you can concentrate on the cut at hand.
> 
> While tilting the blade is possible, I wouldn't advise you to do so in order to make miters and things that need precise angles. Since the blades are so thin on the scroll saw, they will flex while cutting, creating cuts that are not perfectly straight. This makes it nearly impossible to make a clean miter joint.
> 
> However, bevel cutting on the scroll saw can be very useful to create things like self-framing plaques and ornaments, as well as certain types of baskets and candy dishes. I also use this method to make all of my candle tray patterns, as I like the edge design raised up a bit from the center that the candle sits on.
> 
> For our purposes, in this lesson we are going to explore making bevel cuts to create a self-framing plaque. I like designing and cutting self-framing plaques because as the name implies, the frame is cut from the same piece of wood as the design.
> 
> Many of you may not have realized that the practice frame pattern I gave you to scroll saw in lesson 7 is part of self-framing butterfly plaque that I designed. Although I gave you the pattern for the outside fretwork of the frame, I left out the central picture in the middle because I didn't want you to jump ahead. I have now posted the full pattern for you and you can download it HERE.
> 
> Please go to my Google Document account and download it now. If you already did the frame, just cut the inner portion of the design out and apply it to the frame as I instructed before (using blue painter's tape underneath) If you finished cutting the fretwork border of the frame from the last lesson and have left the pattern in place, you could just stick the inner portion of the pattern over the existing pattern and go from there.
> 
> For the sample plaque, I used 1/2" maple and I angled the saw 4 degrees to the outside of the circle. Since I cut my piece in a clockwise direction, I tilted the head of my Excalibur scroll saw to the right that amount. If you were using a scroll saw such as a DeWalt, in which the table tilts, you would tilt the saw table so that the left side of the table is lower than the right side, causing the angle of the blade to be radiating outward from the center of the plaque.
> 
> I have made some drawings to help you understand what we are doing here. It shows a typical piece of this type from a cut away side view. The center portion represents the center of the plaque, while the two outside sections represent the frame. The red lines are the kerf lines left from your saw blade, angled to the outside of the piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although these drawings are somewhat exaggerated to better illustrate the point, the second drawing shows the space that is left from the blade, or the kerf. This is why it is important to consider not only the angle of the cut, but also the blade size. If you wish the piece to drop down a bit farther into the frame, simply use a larger blade with a wider kerf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the piece is cut, you can push it into the frame and lock in, leaving the frame protruding to the front. The frame can and should be glued to keep it in place once all the cutting is finished. I also found that it look quite nice if you slightly round over the inside edge of the frame with a router or laminate trimmer and a small round over bit. (Do this before gluing naturally!)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you wish to have less of a drop of the piece, simply increase the angle by half a degree or so. The increased angle will not allow the center to drop as far through the frame.
> 
> I strongly suggest that you test your angle and blade size on a scrap of wood that is the same thickness as the piece you are cutting. For plaques such as this, I frequently use the waste areas from the corners for testing. Simply draw a small circle and cut a test cut at the given angle and then adjust your saw accordingly. it is better to be safe than ruin a nice piece of wood.
> 
> I made a short video of me demonstrating how I adjust my saw and also of me cutting the circle. You can see how easy it is to do on my saw, as the table is still level and I don't have to fight gravity to turn the wood while it is on an angle. However, I owned a DeWalt saw for almost 15 years and the angle is so slight in cutting like this that it isn't really a factor. Enjoy the video:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=-w_R1rA59c4
> 
> I have used this method with many different scroll sawn pieces, from pictures to baskets (like the one that Leldon cut here) and also on small items such as ornaments. This process really makes it easy to make an all-inclusive project and not have to worry about purchasing or making a frame for it. Once you try it, I am sure you will become a big fan of bevel cutting on the scroll saw!
> 
> Please feel free to ask me any questions you may have about this process. I will always try to be here to help you and I am sure that others on this forum will help with answers too.


I always recommend that you test on a scrap. Since everything is not planed the same and different blades leave different kerf lines, I think it is essential to practice cut a small piece.

If you want the center to come forward, just tilt the saw in the opposite direction (toward the center of the piece) and it should work fine! Good luck with everything. I hope it works well for you. Again- I would love to see pictures when you are done. 

Sheila


----------



## RegisG

scrollgirl said:


> *Lesson 9 - Cutting Bevels on the Scroll Saw*
> 
> Well, you all should have had time to practice cutting all the inside curves and corners on the frames of the practice patterns that I gave you in the previous lessons. Now we should all be ready to move on to learning how to cut on a bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the reasons that I like the scroll saw so much is because it is a very versatile tool. For a relatively minimal start up cost, you can get a tool that has the ability to make a great variety of projects. For many years, my scroll saw and drill press were pretty much the only power tools I owned. Yet, I was still able to create lots of wonderful things using them. With the addition of a few other small hand tools, such as a sander and a small router or laminate trimmer, it opens up a whole array of exciting techniques you can use to make your projects more interesting and fun.
> 
> Most scroll saws have the ability to make bevel or angled cuts. This is typically achieved by tilting the table of the saw either to the left or the right so that the blade is cutting on an angle. Some saws, like the Excalibur saw (the one I have) allows you to tilt the head of the saw and keeps the table flat. This makes is much easier for you to cut on an angle, as you don't have to worry about holding the piece at an angle when you are cutting, and you can concentrate on the cut at hand.
> 
> While tilting the blade is possible, I wouldn't advise you to do so in order to make miters and things that need precise angles. Since the blades are so thin on the scroll saw, they will flex while cutting, creating cuts that are not perfectly straight. This makes it nearly impossible to make a clean miter joint.
> 
> However, bevel cutting on the scroll saw can be very useful to create things like self-framing plaques and ornaments, as well as certain types of baskets and candy dishes. I also use this method to make all of my candle tray patterns, as I like the edge design raised up a bit from the center that the candle sits on.
> 
> For our purposes, in this lesson we are going to explore making bevel cuts to create a self-framing plaque. I like designing and cutting self-framing plaques because as the name implies, the frame is cut from the same piece of wood as the design.
> 
> Many of you may not have realized that the practice frame pattern I gave you to scroll saw in lesson 7 is part of self-framing butterfly plaque that I designed. Although I gave you the pattern for the outside fretwork of the frame, I left out the central picture in the middle because I didn't want you to jump ahead. I have now posted the full pattern for you and you can download it HERE.
> 
> Please go to my Google Document account and download it now. If you already did the frame, just cut the inner portion of the design out and apply it to the frame as I instructed before (using blue painter's tape underneath) If you finished cutting the fretwork border of the frame from the last lesson and have left the pattern in place, you could just stick the inner portion of the pattern over the existing pattern and go from there.
> 
> For the sample plaque, I used 1/2" maple and I angled the saw 4 degrees to the outside of the circle. Since I cut my piece in a clockwise direction, I tilted the head of my Excalibur scroll saw to the right that amount. If you were using a scroll saw such as a DeWalt, in which the table tilts, you would tilt the saw table so that the left side of the table is lower than the right side, causing the angle of the blade to be radiating outward from the center of the plaque.
> 
> I have made some drawings to help you understand what we are doing here. It shows a typical piece of this type from a cut away side view. The center portion represents the center of the plaque, while the two outside sections represent the frame. The red lines are the kerf lines left from your saw blade, angled to the outside of the piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although these drawings are somewhat exaggerated to better illustrate the point, the second drawing shows the space that is left from the blade, or the kerf. This is why it is important to consider not only the angle of the cut, but also the blade size. If you wish the piece to drop down a bit farther into the frame, simply use a larger blade with a wider kerf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the piece is cut, you can push it into the frame and lock in, leaving the frame protruding to the front. The frame can and should be glued to keep it in place once all the cutting is finished. I also found that it look quite nice if you slightly round over the inside edge of the frame with a router or laminate trimmer and a small round over bit. (Do this before gluing naturally!)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you wish to have less of a drop of the piece, simply increase the angle by half a degree or so. The increased angle will not allow the center to drop as far through the frame.
> 
> I strongly suggest that you test your angle and blade size on a scrap of wood that is the same thickness as the piece you are cutting. For plaques such as this, I frequently use the waste areas from the corners for testing. Simply draw a small circle and cut a test cut at the given angle and then adjust your saw accordingly. it is better to be safe than ruin a nice piece of wood.
> 
> I made a short video of me demonstrating how I adjust my saw and also of me cutting the circle. You can see how easy it is to do on my saw, as the table is still level and I don't have to fight gravity to turn the wood while it is on an angle. However, I owned a DeWalt saw for almost 15 years and the angle is so slight in cutting like this that it isn't really a factor. Enjoy the video:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=-w_R1rA59c4
> 
> I have used this method with many different scroll sawn pieces, from pictures to baskets (like the one that Leldon cut here) and also on small items such as ornaments. This process really makes it easy to make an all-inclusive project and not have to worry about purchasing or making a frame for it. Once you try it, I am sure you will become a big fan of bevel cutting on the scroll saw!
> 
> Please feel free to ask me any questions you may have about this process. I will always try to be here to help you and I am sure that others on this forum will help with answers too.


Wow, you're quick. I have a shiney new Ex16 so that tilt is pretty easy for me. And, I would have never made soooo many internal cuts on the lion head with my old dremel. And, yes, I'll post photo. Should be later this week.

Tks,
Regis


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Lesson 9 - Cutting Bevels on the Scroll Saw*
> 
> Well, you all should have had time to practice cutting all the inside curves and corners on the frames of the practice patterns that I gave you in the previous lessons. Now we should all be ready to move on to learning how to cut on a bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the reasons that I like the scroll saw so much is because it is a very versatile tool. For a relatively minimal start up cost, you can get a tool that has the ability to make a great variety of projects. For many years, my scroll saw and drill press were pretty much the only power tools I owned. Yet, I was still able to create lots of wonderful things using them. With the addition of a few other small hand tools, such as a sander and a small router or laminate trimmer, it opens up a whole array of exciting techniques you can use to make your projects more interesting and fun.
> 
> Most scroll saws have the ability to make bevel or angled cuts. This is typically achieved by tilting the table of the saw either to the left or the right so that the blade is cutting on an angle. Some saws, like the Excalibur saw (the one I have) allows you to tilt the head of the saw and keeps the table flat. This makes is much easier for you to cut on an angle, as you don't have to worry about holding the piece at an angle when you are cutting, and you can concentrate on the cut at hand.
> 
> While tilting the blade is possible, I wouldn't advise you to do so in order to make miters and things that need precise angles. Since the blades are so thin on the scroll saw, they will flex while cutting, creating cuts that are not perfectly straight. This makes it nearly impossible to make a clean miter joint.
> 
> However, bevel cutting on the scroll saw can be very useful to create things like self-framing plaques and ornaments, as well as certain types of baskets and candy dishes. I also use this method to make all of my candle tray patterns, as I like the edge design raised up a bit from the center that the candle sits on.
> 
> For our purposes, in this lesson we are going to explore making bevel cuts to create a self-framing plaque. I like designing and cutting self-framing plaques because as the name implies, the frame is cut from the same piece of wood as the design.
> 
> Many of you may not have realized that the practice frame pattern I gave you to scroll saw in lesson 7 is part of self-framing butterfly plaque that I designed. Although I gave you the pattern for the outside fretwork of the frame, I left out the central picture in the middle because I didn't want you to jump ahead. I have now posted the full pattern for you and you can download it HERE.
> 
> Please go to my Google Document account and download it now. If you already did the frame, just cut the inner portion of the design out and apply it to the frame as I instructed before (using blue painter's tape underneath) If you finished cutting the fretwork border of the frame from the last lesson and have left the pattern in place, you could just stick the inner portion of the pattern over the existing pattern and go from there.
> 
> For the sample plaque, I used 1/2" maple and I angled the saw 4 degrees to the outside of the circle. Since I cut my piece in a clockwise direction, I tilted the head of my Excalibur scroll saw to the right that amount. If you were using a scroll saw such as a DeWalt, in which the table tilts, you would tilt the saw table so that the left side of the table is lower than the right side, causing the angle of the blade to be radiating outward from the center of the plaque.
> 
> I have made some drawings to help you understand what we are doing here. It shows a typical piece of this type from a cut away side view. The center portion represents the center of the plaque, while the two outside sections represent the frame. The red lines are the kerf lines left from your saw blade, angled to the outside of the piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although these drawings are somewhat exaggerated to better illustrate the point, the second drawing shows the space that is left from the blade, or the kerf. This is why it is important to consider not only the angle of the cut, but also the blade size. If you wish the piece to drop down a bit farther into the frame, simply use a larger blade with a wider kerf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the piece is cut, you can push it into the frame and lock in, leaving the frame protruding to the front. The frame can and should be glued to keep it in place once all the cutting is finished. I also found that it look quite nice if you slightly round over the inside edge of the frame with a router or laminate trimmer and a small round over bit. (Do this before gluing naturally!)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you wish to have less of a drop of the piece, simply increase the angle by half a degree or so. The increased angle will not allow the center to drop as far through the frame.
> 
> I strongly suggest that you test your angle and blade size on a scrap of wood that is the same thickness as the piece you are cutting. For plaques such as this, I frequently use the waste areas from the corners for testing. Simply draw a small circle and cut a test cut at the given angle and then adjust your saw accordingly. it is better to be safe than ruin a nice piece of wood.
> 
> I made a short video of me demonstrating how I adjust my saw and also of me cutting the circle. You can see how easy it is to do on my saw, as the table is still level and I don't have to fight gravity to turn the wood while it is on an angle. However, I owned a DeWalt saw for almost 15 years and the angle is so slight in cutting like this that it isn't really a factor. Enjoy the video:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=-w_R1rA59c4
> 
> I have used this method with many different scroll sawn pieces, from pictures to baskets (like the one that Leldon cut here) and also on small items such as ornaments. This process really makes it easy to make an all-inclusive project and not have to worry about purchasing or making a frame for it. Once you try it, I am sure you will become a big fan of bevel cutting on the scroll saw!
> 
> Please feel free to ask me any questions you may have about this process. I will always try to be here to help you and I am sure that others on this forum will help with answers too.


Yes, I am at the computer today! I saw your original question this morning and got distracted! Thank goodness for friends like David to cover my butt!  I try to answer as quickly as I can!

Have fun! Sheila


----------



## helluvawreck

scrollgirl said:


> *Lesson 9 - Cutting Bevels on the Scroll Saw*
> 
> Well, you all should have had time to practice cutting all the inside curves and corners on the frames of the practice patterns that I gave you in the previous lessons. Now we should all be ready to move on to learning how to cut on a bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the reasons that I like the scroll saw so much is because it is a very versatile tool. For a relatively minimal start up cost, you can get a tool that has the ability to make a great variety of projects. For many years, my scroll saw and drill press were pretty much the only power tools I owned. Yet, I was still able to create lots of wonderful things using them. With the addition of a few other small hand tools, such as a sander and a small router or laminate trimmer, it opens up a whole array of exciting techniques you can use to make your projects more interesting and fun.
> 
> Most scroll saws have the ability to make bevel or angled cuts. This is typically achieved by tilting the table of the saw either to the left or the right so that the blade is cutting on an angle. Some saws, like the Excalibur saw (the one I have) allows you to tilt the head of the saw and keeps the table flat. This makes is much easier for you to cut on an angle, as you don't have to worry about holding the piece at an angle when you are cutting, and you can concentrate on the cut at hand.
> 
> While tilting the blade is possible, I wouldn't advise you to do so in order to make miters and things that need precise angles. Since the blades are so thin on the scroll saw, they will flex while cutting, creating cuts that are not perfectly straight. This makes it nearly impossible to make a clean miter joint.
> 
> However, bevel cutting on the scroll saw can be very useful to create things like self-framing plaques and ornaments, as well as certain types of baskets and candy dishes. I also use this method to make all of my candle tray patterns, as I like the edge design raised up a bit from the center that the candle sits on.
> 
> For our purposes, in this lesson we are going to explore making bevel cuts to create a self-framing plaque. I like designing and cutting self-framing plaques because as the name implies, the frame is cut from the same piece of wood as the design.
> 
> Many of you may not have realized that the practice frame pattern I gave you to scroll saw in lesson 7 is part of self-framing butterfly plaque that I designed. Although I gave you the pattern for the outside fretwork of the frame, I left out the central picture in the middle because I didn't want you to jump ahead. I have now posted the full pattern for you and you can download it HERE.
> 
> Please go to my Google Document account and download it now. If you already did the frame, just cut the inner portion of the design out and apply it to the frame as I instructed before (using blue painter's tape underneath) If you finished cutting the fretwork border of the frame from the last lesson and have left the pattern in place, you could just stick the inner portion of the pattern over the existing pattern and go from there.
> 
> For the sample plaque, I used 1/2" maple and I angled the saw 4 degrees to the outside of the circle. Since I cut my piece in a clockwise direction, I tilted the head of my Excalibur scroll saw to the right that amount. If you were using a scroll saw such as a DeWalt, in which the table tilts, you would tilt the saw table so that the left side of the table is lower than the right side, causing the angle of the blade to be radiating outward from the center of the plaque.
> 
> I have made some drawings to help you understand what we are doing here. It shows a typical piece of this type from a cut away side view. The center portion represents the center of the plaque, while the two outside sections represent the frame. The red lines are the kerf lines left from your saw blade, angled to the outside of the piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although these drawings are somewhat exaggerated to better illustrate the point, the second drawing shows the space that is left from the blade, or the kerf. This is why it is important to consider not only the angle of the cut, but also the blade size. If you wish the piece to drop down a bit farther into the frame, simply use a larger blade with a wider kerf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the piece is cut, you can push it into the frame and lock in, leaving the frame protruding to the front. The frame can and should be glued to keep it in place once all the cutting is finished. I also found that it look quite nice if you slightly round over the inside edge of the frame with a router or laminate trimmer and a small round over bit. (Do this before gluing naturally!)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you wish to have less of a drop of the piece, simply increase the angle by half a degree or so. The increased angle will not allow the center to drop as far through the frame.
> 
> I strongly suggest that you test your angle and blade size on a scrap of wood that is the same thickness as the piece you are cutting. For plaques such as this, I frequently use the waste areas from the corners for testing. Simply draw a small circle and cut a test cut at the given angle and then adjust your saw accordingly. it is better to be safe than ruin a nice piece of wood.
> 
> I made a short video of me demonstrating how I adjust my saw and also of me cutting the circle. You can see how easy it is to do on my saw, as the table is still level and I don't have to fight gravity to turn the wood while it is on an angle. However, I owned a DeWalt saw for almost 15 years and the angle is so slight in cutting like this that it isn't really a factor. Enjoy the video:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=-w_R1rA59c4
> 
> I have used this method with many different scroll sawn pieces, from pictures to baskets (like the one that Leldon cut here) and also on small items such as ornaments. This process really makes it easy to make an all-inclusive project and not have to worry about purchasing or making a frame for it. Once you try it, I am sure you will become a big fan of bevel cutting on the scroll saw!
> 
> Please feel free to ask me any questions you may have about this process. I will always try to be here to help you and I am sure that others on this forum will help with answers too.


*Sheila*, I think this series is one of the best teaching series that I've seen on Lumberjocks. Since I've started carving the scroll saw is indispensable to me. Sooo I really do appreciate what you've done here.


----------



## RegisG

scrollgirl said:


> *Lesson 9 - Cutting Bevels on the Scroll Saw*
> 
> Well, you all should have had time to practice cutting all the inside curves and corners on the frames of the practice patterns that I gave you in the previous lessons. Now we should all be ready to move on to learning how to cut on a bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the reasons that I like the scroll saw so much is because it is a very versatile tool. For a relatively minimal start up cost, you can get a tool that has the ability to make a great variety of projects. For many years, my scroll saw and drill press were pretty much the only power tools I owned. Yet, I was still able to create lots of wonderful things using them. With the addition of a few other small hand tools, such as a sander and a small router or laminate trimmer, it opens up a whole array of exciting techniques you can use to make your projects more interesting and fun.
> 
> Most scroll saws have the ability to make bevel or angled cuts. This is typically achieved by tilting the table of the saw either to the left or the right so that the blade is cutting on an angle. Some saws, like the Excalibur saw (the one I have) allows you to tilt the head of the saw and keeps the table flat. This makes is much easier for you to cut on an angle, as you don't have to worry about holding the piece at an angle when you are cutting, and you can concentrate on the cut at hand.
> 
> While tilting the blade is possible, I wouldn't advise you to do so in order to make miters and things that need precise angles. Since the blades are so thin on the scroll saw, they will flex while cutting, creating cuts that are not perfectly straight. This makes it nearly impossible to make a clean miter joint.
> 
> However, bevel cutting on the scroll saw can be very useful to create things like self-framing plaques and ornaments, as well as certain types of baskets and candy dishes. I also use this method to make all of my candle tray patterns, as I like the edge design raised up a bit from the center that the candle sits on.
> 
> For our purposes, in this lesson we are going to explore making bevel cuts to create a self-framing plaque. I like designing and cutting self-framing plaques because as the name implies, the frame is cut from the same piece of wood as the design.
> 
> Many of you may not have realized that the practice frame pattern I gave you to scroll saw in lesson 7 is part of self-framing butterfly plaque that I designed. Although I gave you the pattern for the outside fretwork of the frame, I left out the central picture in the middle because I didn't want you to jump ahead. I have now posted the full pattern for you and you can download it HERE.
> 
> Please go to my Google Document account and download it now. If you already did the frame, just cut the inner portion of the design out and apply it to the frame as I instructed before (using blue painter's tape underneath) If you finished cutting the fretwork border of the frame from the last lesson and have left the pattern in place, you could just stick the inner portion of the pattern over the existing pattern and go from there.
> 
> For the sample plaque, I used 1/2" maple and I angled the saw 4 degrees to the outside of the circle. Since I cut my piece in a clockwise direction, I tilted the head of my Excalibur scroll saw to the right that amount. If you were using a scroll saw such as a DeWalt, in which the table tilts, you would tilt the saw table so that the left side of the table is lower than the right side, causing the angle of the blade to be radiating outward from the center of the plaque.
> 
> I have made some drawings to help you understand what we are doing here. It shows a typical piece of this type from a cut away side view. The center portion represents the center of the plaque, while the two outside sections represent the frame. The red lines are the kerf lines left from your saw blade, angled to the outside of the piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although these drawings are somewhat exaggerated to better illustrate the point, the second drawing shows the space that is left from the blade, or the kerf. This is why it is important to consider not only the angle of the cut, but also the blade size. If you wish the piece to drop down a bit farther into the frame, simply use a larger blade with a wider kerf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the piece is cut, you can push it into the frame and lock in, leaving the frame protruding to the front. The frame can and should be glued to keep it in place once all the cutting is finished. I also found that it look quite nice if you slightly round over the inside edge of the frame with a router or laminate trimmer and a small round over bit. (Do this before gluing naturally!)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you wish to have less of a drop of the piece, simply increase the angle by half a degree or so. The increased angle will not allow the center to drop as far through the frame.
> 
> I strongly suggest that you test your angle and blade size on a scrap of wood that is the same thickness as the piece you are cutting. For plaques such as this, I frequently use the waste areas from the corners for testing. Simply draw a small circle and cut a test cut at the given angle and then adjust your saw accordingly. it is better to be safe than ruin a nice piece of wood.
> 
> I made a short video of me demonstrating how I adjust my saw and also of me cutting the circle. You can see how easy it is to do on my saw, as the table is still level and I don't have to fight gravity to turn the wood while it is on an angle. However, I owned a DeWalt saw for almost 15 years and the angle is so slight in cutting like this that it isn't really a factor. Enjoy the video:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=-w_R1rA59c4
> 
> I have used this method with many different scroll sawn pieces, from pictures to baskets (like the one that Leldon cut here) and also on small items such as ornaments. This process really makes it easy to make an all-inclusive project and not have to worry about purchasing or making a frame for it. Once you try it, I am sure you will become a big fan of bevel cutting on the scroll saw!
> 
> Please feel free to ask me any questions you may have about this process. I will always try to be here to help you and I am sure that others on this forum will help with answers too.


Sheila,
As promised here is photo. Your tips added a little class to this plain lion.
Thank you,
Regis


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Lesson 9 - Cutting Bevels on the Scroll Saw*
> 
> Well, you all should have had time to practice cutting all the inside curves and corners on the frames of the practice patterns that I gave you in the previous lessons. Now we should all be ready to move on to learning how to cut on a bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the reasons that I like the scroll saw so much is because it is a very versatile tool. For a relatively minimal start up cost, you can get a tool that has the ability to make a great variety of projects. For many years, my scroll saw and drill press were pretty much the only power tools I owned. Yet, I was still able to create lots of wonderful things using them. With the addition of a few other small hand tools, such as a sander and a small router or laminate trimmer, it opens up a whole array of exciting techniques you can use to make your projects more interesting and fun.
> 
> Most scroll saws have the ability to make bevel or angled cuts. This is typically achieved by tilting the table of the saw either to the left or the right so that the blade is cutting on an angle. Some saws, like the Excalibur saw (the one I have) allows you to tilt the head of the saw and keeps the table flat. This makes is much easier for you to cut on an angle, as you don't have to worry about holding the piece at an angle when you are cutting, and you can concentrate on the cut at hand.
> 
> While tilting the blade is possible, I wouldn't advise you to do so in order to make miters and things that need precise angles. Since the blades are so thin on the scroll saw, they will flex while cutting, creating cuts that are not perfectly straight. This makes it nearly impossible to make a clean miter joint.
> 
> However, bevel cutting on the scroll saw can be very useful to create things like self-framing plaques and ornaments, as well as certain types of baskets and candy dishes. I also use this method to make all of my candle tray patterns, as I like the edge design raised up a bit from the center that the candle sits on.
> 
> For our purposes, in this lesson we are going to explore making bevel cuts to create a self-framing plaque. I like designing and cutting self-framing plaques because as the name implies, the frame is cut from the same piece of wood as the design.
> 
> Many of you may not have realized that the practice frame pattern I gave you to scroll saw in lesson 7 is part of self-framing butterfly plaque that I designed. Although I gave you the pattern for the outside fretwork of the frame, I left out the central picture in the middle because I didn't want you to jump ahead. I have now posted the full pattern for you and you can download it HERE.
> 
> Please go to my Google Document account and download it now. If you already did the frame, just cut the inner portion of the design out and apply it to the frame as I instructed before (using blue painter's tape underneath) If you finished cutting the fretwork border of the frame from the last lesson and have left the pattern in place, you could just stick the inner portion of the pattern over the existing pattern and go from there.
> 
> For the sample plaque, I used 1/2" maple and I angled the saw 4 degrees to the outside of the circle. Since I cut my piece in a clockwise direction, I tilted the head of my Excalibur scroll saw to the right that amount. If you were using a scroll saw such as a DeWalt, in which the table tilts, you would tilt the saw table so that the left side of the table is lower than the right side, causing the angle of the blade to be radiating outward from the center of the plaque.
> 
> I have made some drawings to help you understand what we are doing here. It shows a typical piece of this type from a cut away side view. The center portion represents the center of the plaque, while the two outside sections represent the frame. The red lines are the kerf lines left from your saw blade, angled to the outside of the piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although these drawings are somewhat exaggerated to better illustrate the point, the second drawing shows the space that is left from the blade, or the kerf. This is why it is important to consider not only the angle of the cut, but also the blade size. If you wish the piece to drop down a bit farther into the frame, simply use a larger blade with a wider kerf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the piece is cut, you can push it into the frame and lock in, leaving the frame protruding to the front. The frame can and should be glued to keep it in place once all the cutting is finished. I also found that it look quite nice if you slightly round over the inside edge of the frame with a router or laminate trimmer and a small round over bit. (Do this before gluing naturally!)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you wish to have less of a drop of the piece, simply increase the angle by half a degree or so. The increased angle will not allow the center to drop as far through the frame.
> 
> I strongly suggest that you test your angle and blade size on a scrap of wood that is the same thickness as the piece you are cutting. For plaques such as this, I frequently use the waste areas from the corners for testing. Simply draw a small circle and cut a test cut at the given angle and then adjust your saw accordingly. it is better to be safe than ruin a nice piece of wood.
> 
> I made a short video of me demonstrating how I adjust my saw and also of me cutting the circle. You can see how easy it is to do on my saw, as the table is still level and I don't have to fight gravity to turn the wood while it is on an angle. However, I owned a DeWalt saw for almost 15 years and the angle is so slight in cutting like this that it isn't really a factor. Enjoy the video:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=-w_R1rA59c4
> 
> I have used this method with many different scroll sawn pieces, from pictures to baskets (like the one that Leldon cut here) and also on small items such as ornaments. This process really makes it easy to make an all-inclusive project and not have to worry about purchasing or making a frame for it. Once you try it, I am sure you will become a big fan of bevel cutting on the scroll saw!
> 
> Please feel free to ask me any questions you may have about this process. I will always try to be here to help you and I am sure that others on this forum will help with answers too.


That looks really cool, Regis! Oak is hard to do scroll work in too, I found. You did a great job! I love him!

Sheila


----------



## RegisG

scrollgirl said:


> *Lesson 9 - Cutting Bevels on the Scroll Saw*
> 
> Well, you all should have had time to practice cutting all the inside curves and corners on the frames of the practice patterns that I gave you in the previous lessons. Now we should all be ready to move on to learning how to cut on a bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the reasons that I like the scroll saw so much is because it is a very versatile tool. For a relatively minimal start up cost, you can get a tool that has the ability to make a great variety of projects. For many years, my scroll saw and drill press were pretty much the only power tools I owned. Yet, I was still able to create lots of wonderful things using them. With the addition of a few other small hand tools, such as a sander and a small router or laminate trimmer, it opens up a whole array of exciting techniques you can use to make your projects more interesting and fun.
> 
> Most scroll saws have the ability to make bevel or angled cuts. This is typically achieved by tilting the table of the saw either to the left or the right so that the blade is cutting on an angle. Some saws, like the Excalibur saw (the one I have) allows you to tilt the head of the saw and keeps the table flat. This makes is much easier for you to cut on an angle, as you don't have to worry about holding the piece at an angle when you are cutting, and you can concentrate on the cut at hand.
> 
> While tilting the blade is possible, I wouldn't advise you to do so in order to make miters and things that need precise angles. Since the blades are so thin on the scroll saw, they will flex while cutting, creating cuts that are not perfectly straight. This makes it nearly impossible to make a clean miter joint.
> 
> However, bevel cutting on the scroll saw can be very useful to create things like self-framing plaques and ornaments, as well as certain types of baskets and candy dishes. I also use this method to make all of my candle tray patterns, as I like the edge design raised up a bit from the center that the candle sits on.
> 
> For our purposes, in this lesson we are going to explore making bevel cuts to create a self-framing plaque. I like designing and cutting self-framing plaques because as the name implies, the frame is cut from the same piece of wood as the design.
> 
> Many of you may not have realized that the practice frame pattern I gave you to scroll saw in lesson 7 is part of self-framing butterfly plaque that I designed. Although I gave you the pattern for the outside fretwork of the frame, I left out the central picture in the middle because I didn't want you to jump ahead. I have now posted the full pattern for you and you can download it HERE.
> 
> Please go to my Google Document account and download it now. If you already did the frame, just cut the inner portion of the design out and apply it to the frame as I instructed before (using blue painter's tape underneath) If you finished cutting the fretwork border of the frame from the last lesson and have left the pattern in place, you could just stick the inner portion of the pattern over the existing pattern and go from there.
> 
> For the sample plaque, I used 1/2" maple and I angled the saw 4 degrees to the outside of the circle. Since I cut my piece in a clockwise direction, I tilted the head of my Excalibur scroll saw to the right that amount. If you were using a scroll saw such as a DeWalt, in which the table tilts, you would tilt the saw table so that the left side of the table is lower than the right side, causing the angle of the blade to be radiating outward from the center of the plaque.
> 
> I have made some drawings to help you understand what we are doing here. It shows a typical piece of this type from a cut away side view. The center portion represents the center of the plaque, while the two outside sections represent the frame. The red lines are the kerf lines left from your saw blade, angled to the outside of the piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although these drawings are somewhat exaggerated to better illustrate the point, the second drawing shows the space that is left from the blade, or the kerf. This is why it is important to consider not only the angle of the cut, but also the blade size. If you wish the piece to drop down a bit farther into the frame, simply use a larger blade with a wider kerf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the piece is cut, you can push it into the frame and lock in, leaving the frame protruding to the front. The frame can and should be glued to keep it in place once all the cutting is finished. I also found that it look quite nice if you slightly round over the inside edge of the frame with a router or laminate trimmer and a small round over bit. (Do this before gluing naturally!)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you wish to have less of a drop of the piece, simply increase the angle by half a degree or so. The increased angle will not allow the center to drop as far through the frame.
> 
> I strongly suggest that you test your angle and blade size on a scrap of wood that is the same thickness as the piece you are cutting. For plaques such as this, I frequently use the waste areas from the corners for testing. Simply draw a small circle and cut a test cut at the given angle and then adjust your saw accordingly. it is better to be safe than ruin a nice piece of wood.
> 
> I made a short video of me demonstrating how I adjust my saw and also of me cutting the circle. You can see how easy it is to do on my saw, as the table is still level and I don't have to fight gravity to turn the wood while it is on an angle. However, I owned a DeWalt saw for almost 15 years and the angle is so slight in cutting like this that it isn't really a factor. Enjoy the video:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=-w_R1rA59c4
> 
> I have used this method with many different scroll sawn pieces, from pictures to baskets (like the one that Leldon cut here) and also on small items such as ornaments. This process really makes it easy to make an all-inclusive project and not have to worry about purchasing or making a frame for it. Once you try it, I am sure you will become a big fan of bevel cutting on the scroll saw!
> 
> Please feel free to ask me any questions you may have about this process. I will always try to be here to help you and I am sure that others on this forum will help with answers too.


Thank you. It was my 1st project that is not for the practice-bin. I really don't know what to do for backing so I'm just going to leave alone.

Thanks again for all the tips and techniques.

Regis


----------



## JoeLyddon

scrollgirl said:


> *Lesson 9 - Cutting Bevels on the Scroll Saw*
> 
> Well, you all should have had time to practice cutting all the inside curves and corners on the frames of the practice patterns that I gave you in the previous lessons. Now we should all be ready to move on to learning how to cut on a bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the reasons that I like the scroll saw so much is because it is a very versatile tool. For a relatively minimal start up cost, you can get a tool that has the ability to make a great variety of projects. For many years, my scroll saw and drill press were pretty much the only power tools I owned. Yet, I was still able to create lots of wonderful things using them. With the addition of a few other small hand tools, such as a sander and a small router or laminate trimmer, it opens up a whole array of exciting techniques you can use to make your projects more interesting and fun.
> 
> Most scroll saws have the ability to make bevel or angled cuts. This is typically achieved by tilting the table of the saw either to the left or the right so that the blade is cutting on an angle. Some saws, like the Excalibur saw (the one I have) allows you to tilt the head of the saw and keeps the table flat. This makes is much easier for you to cut on an angle, as you don't have to worry about holding the piece at an angle when you are cutting, and you can concentrate on the cut at hand.
> 
> While tilting the blade is possible, I wouldn't advise you to do so in order to make miters and things that need precise angles. Since the blades are so thin on the scroll saw, they will flex while cutting, creating cuts that are not perfectly straight. This makes it nearly impossible to make a clean miter joint.
> 
> However, bevel cutting on the scroll saw can be very useful to create things like self-framing plaques and ornaments, as well as certain types of baskets and candy dishes. I also use this method to make all of my candle tray patterns, as I like the edge design raised up a bit from the center that the candle sits on.
> 
> For our purposes, in this lesson we are going to explore making bevel cuts to create a self-framing plaque. I like designing and cutting self-framing plaques because as the name implies, the frame is cut from the same piece of wood as the design.
> 
> Many of you may not have realized that the practice frame pattern I gave you to scroll saw in lesson 7 is part of self-framing butterfly plaque that I designed. Although I gave you the pattern for the outside fretwork of the frame, I left out the central picture in the middle because I didn't want you to jump ahead. I have now posted the full pattern for you and you can download it HERE.
> 
> Please go to my Google Document account and download it now. If you already did the frame, just cut the inner portion of the design out and apply it to the frame as I instructed before (using blue painter's tape underneath) If you finished cutting the fretwork border of the frame from the last lesson and have left the pattern in place, you could just stick the inner portion of the pattern over the existing pattern and go from there.
> 
> For the sample plaque, I used 1/2" maple and I angled the saw 4 degrees to the outside of the circle. Since I cut my piece in a clockwise direction, I tilted the head of my Excalibur scroll saw to the right that amount. If you were using a scroll saw such as a DeWalt, in which the table tilts, you would tilt the saw table so that the left side of the table is lower than the right side, causing the angle of the blade to be radiating outward from the center of the plaque.
> 
> I have made some drawings to help you understand what we are doing here. It shows a typical piece of this type from a cut away side view. The center portion represents the center of the plaque, while the two outside sections represent the frame. The red lines are the kerf lines left from your saw blade, angled to the outside of the piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although these drawings are somewhat exaggerated to better illustrate the point, the second drawing shows the space that is left from the blade, or the kerf. This is why it is important to consider not only the angle of the cut, but also the blade size. If you wish the piece to drop down a bit farther into the frame, simply use a larger blade with a wider kerf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the piece is cut, you can push it into the frame and lock in, leaving the frame protruding to the front. The frame can and should be glued to keep it in place once all the cutting is finished. I also found that it look quite nice if you slightly round over the inside edge of the frame with a router or laminate trimmer and a small round over bit. (Do this before gluing naturally!)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you wish to have less of a drop of the piece, simply increase the angle by half a degree or so. The increased angle will not allow the center to drop as far through the frame.
> 
> I strongly suggest that you test your angle and blade size on a scrap of wood that is the same thickness as the piece you are cutting. For plaques such as this, I frequently use the waste areas from the corners for testing. Simply draw a small circle and cut a test cut at the given angle and then adjust your saw accordingly. it is better to be safe than ruin a nice piece of wood.
> 
> I made a short video of me demonstrating how I adjust my saw and also of me cutting the circle. You can see how easy it is to do on my saw, as the table is still level and I don't have to fight gravity to turn the wood while it is on an angle. However, I owned a DeWalt saw for almost 15 years and the angle is so slight in cutting like this that it isn't really a factor. Enjoy the video:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=-w_R1rA59c4
> 
> I have used this method with many different scroll sawn pieces, from pictures to baskets (like the one that Leldon cut here) and also on small items such as ornaments. This process really makes it easy to make an all-inclusive project and not have to worry about purchasing or making a frame for it. Once you try it, I am sure you will become a big fan of bevel cutting on the scroll saw!
> 
> Please feel free to ask me any questions you may have about this process. I will always try to be here to help you and I am sure that others on this forum will help with answers too.


Yeah Regis… that is really COOL!


----------



## huntter2022

scrollgirl said:


> *Lesson 9 - Cutting Bevels on the Scroll Saw*
> 
> Well, you all should have had time to practice cutting all the inside curves and corners on the frames of the practice patterns that I gave you in the previous lessons. Now we should all be ready to move on to learning how to cut on a bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the reasons that I like the scroll saw so much is because it is a very versatile tool. For a relatively minimal start up cost, you can get a tool that has the ability to make a great variety of projects. For many years, my scroll saw and drill press were pretty much the only power tools I owned. Yet, I was still able to create lots of wonderful things using them. With the addition of a few other small hand tools, such as a sander and a small router or laminate trimmer, it opens up a whole array of exciting techniques you can use to make your projects more interesting and fun.
> 
> Most scroll saws have the ability to make bevel or angled cuts. This is typically achieved by tilting the table of the saw either to the left or the right so that the blade is cutting on an angle. Some saws, like the Excalibur saw (the one I have) allows you to tilt the head of the saw and keeps the table flat. This makes is much easier for you to cut on an angle, as you don't have to worry about holding the piece at an angle when you are cutting, and you can concentrate on the cut at hand.
> 
> While tilting the blade is possible, I wouldn't advise you to do so in order to make miters and things that need precise angles. Since the blades are so thin on the scroll saw, they will flex while cutting, creating cuts that are not perfectly straight. This makes it nearly impossible to make a clean miter joint.
> 
> However, bevel cutting on the scroll saw can be very useful to create things like self-framing plaques and ornaments, as well as certain types of baskets and candy dishes. I also use this method to make all of my candle tray patterns, as I like the edge design raised up a bit from the center that the candle sits on.
> 
> For our purposes, in this lesson we are going to explore making bevel cuts to create a self-framing plaque. I like designing and cutting self-framing plaques because as the name implies, the frame is cut from the same piece of wood as the design.
> 
> Many of you may not have realized that the practice frame pattern I gave you to scroll saw in lesson 7 is part of self-framing butterfly plaque that I designed. Although I gave you the pattern for the outside fretwork of the frame, I left out the central picture in the middle because I didn't want you to jump ahead. I have now posted the full pattern for you and you can download it HERE.
> 
> Please go to my Google Document account and download it now. If you already did the frame, just cut the inner portion of the design out and apply it to the frame as I instructed before (using blue painter's tape underneath) If you finished cutting the fretwork border of the frame from the last lesson and have left the pattern in place, you could just stick the inner portion of the pattern over the existing pattern and go from there.
> 
> For the sample plaque, I used 1/2" maple and I angled the saw 4 degrees to the outside of the circle. Since I cut my piece in a clockwise direction, I tilted the head of my Excalibur scroll saw to the right that amount. If you were using a scroll saw such as a DeWalt, in which the table tilts, you would tilt the saw table so that the left side of the table is lower than the right side, causing the angle of the blade to be radiating outward from the center of the plaque.
> 
> I have made some drawings to help you understand what we are doing here. It shows a typical piece of this type from a cut away side view. The center portion represents the center of the plaque, while the two outside sections represent the frame. The red lines are the kerf lines left from your saw blade, angled to the outside of the piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although these drawings are somewhat exaggerated to better illustrate the point, the second drawing shows the space that is left from the blade, or the kerf. This is why it is important to consider not only the angle of the cut, but also the blade size. If you wish the piece to drop down a bit farther into the frame, simply use a larger blade with a wider kerf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the piece is cut, you can push it into the frame and lock in, leaving the frame protruding to the front. The frame can and should be glued to keep it in place once all the cutting is finished. I also found that it look quite nice if you slightly round over the inside edge of the frame with a router or laminate trimmer and a small round over bit. (Do this before gluing naturally!)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you wish to have less of a drop of the piece, simply increase the angle by half a degree or so. The increased angle will not allow the center to drop as far through the frame.
> 
> I strongly suggest that you test your angle and blade size on a scrap of wood that is the same thickness as the piece you are cutting. For plaques such as this, I frequently use the waste areas from the corners for testing. Simply draw a small circle and cut a test cut at the given angle and then adjust your saw accordingly. it is better to be safe than ruin a nice piece of wood.
> 
> I made a short video of me demonstrating how I adjust my saw and also of me cutting the circle. You can see how easy it is to do on my saw, as the table is still level and I don't have to fight gravity to turn the wood while it is on an angle. However, I owned a DeWalt saw for almost 15 years and the angle is so slight in cutting like this that it isn't really a factor. Enjoy the video:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=-w_R1rA59c4
> 
> I have used this method with many different scroll sawn pieces, from pictures to baskets (like the one that Leldon cut here) and also on small items such as ornaments. This process really makes it easy to make an all-inclusive project and not have to worry about purchasing or making a frame for it. Once you try it, I am sure you will become a big fan of bevel cutting on the scroll saw!
> 
> Please feel free to ask me any questions you may have about this process. I will always try to be here to help you and I am sure that others on this forum will help with answers too.


Regis you did a great job on the clock


----------



## scrollgirl

*Lesson 10 - Cutting Negative Designs*

In scroll sawing, there are several different types of ways to make a nice design. Some people make beautiful portraits by playing with lights and shadows. Here is an example of portrait designs:










The above portrait was designed by my partner Keith. I have not yet done much portrait cutting, but there are many scrollers here such as Scroll3r, KnotCurser and William who do really nice work on them.

Another type of design is what is referred to as a 'positive' design. In that piece, the design consists of what material is left behind after scroll sawing. Here is an example of a positive design that I created:










You can also have what is called a 'negative' type of design. In this type of scroll work, the part of the design that is at focus is the area where the material is removed from. Here is the negative version of the above design:










As you can see, these are essentially the same scenes but they have two very different looks. The positive design is a bit more delicate, as there are several thin pieces that may be prone to breaking. I decided to use a thin veneer backer on that piece so that it would be stronger, and also to give it a solid, contrasting background so that the design would show up nicely.

Both versions are nice, but for today's lesson we are going to focus on cutting a negative type design and look into the most efficient way to create them.

In Lesson 9 I had a link for you to download a pattern that I prepared for you which was a self-framing plaque. The design had a positive scroll saw design on the frame and the inner part of the frame is a negative type of scroll saw design. If you haven't yet downloaded it, you can do so here.

You may want to make a few copies and just practice on the center portion of the design, if you wish. If you already cut the frame, you can just apply the pattern to the center area if you already haven't (we covered separating the frame from the center area in the last lesson on bevel cutting self-framing plaques). Either way, you can choose which will work best for you.

In the illustration below, the red dots indicate suggested entry points. Use the smallest bit you can to accommodate a 2/0 reverse tooth scroll saw blade and drill your holes. I also like using brad point drill bits whenever possible, as I find that it is easier to drill accurately with them.










When choosing where to drill the entry holes, in general, I look for the thickest part of the lines - especially on the long, thin areas.










When you are dealing with very small circles or tear drop shapes, as you have in this design, I find it is best to drill on the far rounded edge, just up to the line. That way you can complete the cutting of the shape from first one side of the hole, stopping at the point, and then back the blade back to the entry hole and complete the cut coming from the other side. This is shown by the drawing below and then later demonstrated in the video:










Once your holes are drilled, be sure to sand the back of your design so that it will lay flat on the table when you cut. This is very important when you have designs with small details such as this, as you don't want it to rock while you are trying to cut.

When cutting long curves and swirls, I recommend that you cut the line to the inside of the curve first. Cut along the inside line until you reach the point (marked by the 'x')










Without turning the piece, back the blade along the line you just scrolled until you reach the entry hole:










Then cut the opposite side of the line until you meet up at the point again, as indicated once again by the 'x'.










Continue to cut all the swirl pieces in the same manner.

One thing that I wanted to note - when doing designs such as these, I drill holes into the buds or pods and cut them separately from when I cut the stem. Even though they do meet up with the stem, if you cut into them from the stem, it makes it a much more difficult cut. I find it is best to drill at the furthest (rounded) part of the bud or pod and then scroll one side of the bud at a time, stopping at the point of the teardrop on the first side, and continuing through to the stem on the second pass.

The following illustrations will show this more clearly:





































I also made you a video showing me demonstrating many of these points. I hope you enjoy watching it and it helps you understand the process clearly.






By following these steps and a little bit of practice, you are well on your way to cutting negative scroll saw designs.

Now there was nothing 'negative' about that, was there?










I hope you enjoyed the lesson!


----------



## JoeLyddon

scrollgirl said:


> *Lesson 10 - Cutting Negative Designs*
> 
> In scroll sawing, there are several different types of ways to make a nice design. Some people make beautiful portraits by playing with lights and shadows. Here is an example of portrait designs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The above portrait was designed by my partner Keith. I have not yet done much portrait cutting, but there are many scrollers here such as Scroll3r, KnotCurser and William who do really nice work on them.
> 
> Another type of design is what is referred to as a 'positive' design. In that piece, the design consists of what material is left behind after scroll sawing. Here is an example of a positive design that I created:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can also have what is called a 'negative' type of design. In this type of scroll work, the part of the design that is at focus is the area where the material is removed from. Here is the negative version of the above design:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, these are essentially the same scenes but they have two very different looks. The positive design is a bit more delicate, as there are several thin pieces that may be prone to breaking. I decided to use a thin veneer backer on that piece so that it would be stronger, and also to give it a solid, contrasting background so that the design would show up nicely.
> 
> Both versions are nice, but for today's lesson we are going to focus on cutting a negative type design and look into the most efficient way to create them.
> 
> In Lesson 9 I had a link for you to download a pattern that I prepared for you which was a self-framing plaque. The design had a positive scroll saw design on the frame and the inner part of the frame is a negative type of scroll saw design. If you haven't yet downloaded it, you can do so here.
> 
> You may want to make a few copies and just practice on the center portion of the design, if you wish. If you already cut the frame, you can just apply the pattern to the center area if you already haven't (we covered separating the frame from the center area in the last lesson on bevel cutting self-framing plaques). Either way, you can choose which will work best for you.
> 
> In the illustration below, the red dots indicate suggested entry points. Use the smallest bit you can to accommodate a 2/0 reverse tooth scroll saw blade and drill your holes. I also like using brad point drill bits whenever possible, as I find that it is easier to drill accurately with them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When choosing where to drill the entry holes, in general, I look for the thickest part of the lines - especially on the long, thin areas.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you are dealing with very small circles or tear drop shapes, as you have in this design, I find it is best to drill on the far rounded edge, just up to the line. That way you can complete the cutting of the shape from first one side of the hole, stopping at the point, and then back the blade back to the entry hole and complete the cut coming from the other side. This is shown by the drawing below and then later demonstrated in the video:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once your holes are drilled, be sure to sand the back of your design so that it will lay flat on the table when you cut. This is very important when you have designs with small details such as this, as you don't want it to rock while you are trying to cut.
> 
> When cutting long curves and swirls, I recommend that you cut the line to the inside of the curve first. Cut along the inside line until you reach the point (marked by the 'x')
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Without turning the piece, back the blade along the line you just scrolled until you reach the entry hole:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut the opposite side of the line until you meet up at the point again, as indicated once again by the 'x'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue to cut all the swirl pieces in the same manner.
> 
> One thing that I wanted to note - when doing designs such as these, I drill holes into the buds or pods and cut them separately from when I cut the stem. Even though they do meet up with the stem, if you cut into them from the stem, it makes it a much more difficult cut. I find it is best to drill at the furthest (rounded) part of the bud or pod and then scroll one side of the bud at a time, stopping at the point of the teardrop on the first side, and continuing through to the stem on the second pass.
> 
> The following illustrations will show this more clearly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also made you a video showing me demonstrating many of these points. I hope you enjoy watching it and it helps you understand the process clearly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By following these steps and a little bit of practice, you are well on your way to cutting negative scroll saw designs.
> 
> Now there was nothing 'negative' about that, was there?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you enjoyed the lesson!


Sheila, you're a WONDERFUL instructor!

You make everything look so simple!

You change the blade holes so easily! I know I'd be breaking blades all over the place! LOL

You're getting my juices flowing to see if I can make my cheapy scroll saw work…
... got it way back when I was just getting back into woodwk'g… on eBay for $45 … never did have any real instruction on it… I'm also probably missing something in setting it up, etc.

Thank you again for your FINE work… You are "Poetry in Motion".


----------



## LeeJ

scrollgirl said:


> *Lesson 10 - Cutting Negative Designs*
> 
> In scroll sawing, there are several different types of ways to make a nice design. Some people make beautiful portraits by playing with lights and shadows. Here is an example of portrait designs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The above portrait was designed by my partner Keith. I have not yet done much portrait cutting, but there are many scrollers here such as Scroll3r, KnotCurser and William who do really nice work on them.
> 
> Another type of design is what is referred to as a 'positive' design. In that piece, the design consists of what material is left behind after scroll sawing. Here is an example of a positive design that I created:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can also have what is called a 'negative' type of design. In this type of scroll work, the part of the design that is at focus is the area where the material is removed from. Here is the negative version of the above design:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, these are essentially the same scenes but they have two very different looks. The positive design is a bit more delicate, as there are several thin pieces that may be prone to breaking. I decided to use a thin veneer backer on that piece so that it would be stronger, and also to give it a solid, contrasting background so that the design would show up nicely.
> 
> Both versions are nice, but for today's lesson we are going to focus on cutting a negative type design and look into the most efficient way to create them.
> 
> In Lesson 9 I had a link for you to download a pattern that I prepared for you which was a self-framing plaque. The design had a positive scroll saw design on the frame and the inner part of the frame is a negative type of scroll saw design. If you haven't yet downloaded it, you can do so here.
> 
> You may want to make a few copies and just practice on the center portion of the design, if you wish. If you already cut the frame, you can just apply the pattern to the center area if you already haven't (we covered separating the frame from the center area in the last lesson on bevel cutting self-framing plaques). Either way, you can choose which will work best for you.
> 
> In the illustration below, the red dots indicate suggested entry points. Use the smallest bit you can to accommodate a 2/0 reverse tooth scroll saw blade and drill your holes. I also like using brad point drill bits whenever possible, as I find that it is easier to drill accurately with them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When choosing where to drill the entry holes, in general, I look for the thickest part of the lines - especially on the long, thin areas.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you are dealing with very small circles or tear drop shapes, as you have in this design, I find it is best to drill on the far rounded edge, just up to the line. That way you can complete the cutting of the shape from first one side of the hole, stopping at the point, and then back the blade back to the entry hole and complete the cut coming from the other side. This is shown by the drawing below and then later demonstrated in the video:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once your holes are drilled, be sure to sand the back of your design so that it will lay flat on the table when you cut. This is very important when you have designs with small details such as this, as you don't want it to rock while you are trying to cut.
> 
> When cutting long curves and swirls, I recommend that you cut the line to the inside of the curve first. Cut along the inside line until you reach the point (marked by the 'x')
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Without turning the piece, back the blade along the line you just scrolled until you reach the entry hole:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut the opposite side of the line until you meet up at the point again, as indicated once again by the 'x'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue to cut all the swirl pieces in the same manner.
> 
> One thing that I wanted to note - when doing designs such as these, I drill holes into the buds or pods and cut them separately from when I cut the stem. Even though they do meet up with the stem, if you cut into them from the stem, it makes it a much more difficult cut. I find it is best to drill at the furthest (rounded) part of the bud or pod and then scroll one side of the bud at a time, stopping at the point of the teardrop on the first side, and continuing through to the stem on the second pass.
> 
> The following illustrations will show this more clearly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also made you a video showing me demonstrating many of these points. I hope you enjoy watching it and it helps you understand the process clearly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By following these steps and a little bit of practice, you are well on your way to cutting negative scroll saw designs.
> 
> Now there was nothing 'negative' about that, was there?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you enjoyed the lesson!


Very helpful, Shelia!

Lee


----------



## Rick13403

scrollgirl said:


> *Lesson 10 - Cutting Negative Designs*
> 
> In scroll sawing, there are several different types of ways to make a nice design. Some people make beautiful portraits by playing with lights and shadows. Here is an example of portrait designs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The above portrait was designed by my partner Keith. I have not yet done much portrait cutting, but there are many scrollers here such as Scroll3r, KnotCurser and William who do really nice work on them.
> 
> Another type of design is what is referred to as a 'positive' design. In that piece, the design consists of what material is left behind after scroll sawing. Here is an example of a positive design that I created:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can also have what is called a 'negative' type of design. In this type of scroll work, the part of the design that is at focus is the area where the material is removed from. Here is the negative version of the above design:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, these are essentially the same scenes but they have two very different looks. The positive design is a bit more delicate, as there are several thin pieces that may be prone to breaking. I decided to use a thin veneer backer on that piece so that it would be stronger, and also to give it a solid, contrasting background so that the design would show up nicely.
> 
> Both versions are nice, but for today's lesson we are going to focus on cutting a negative type design and look into the most efficient way to create them.
> 
> In Lesson 9 I had a link for you to download a pattern that I prepared for you which was a self-framing plaque. The design had a positive scroll saw design on the frame and the inner part of the frame is a negative type of scroll saw design. If you haven't yet downloaded it, you can do so here.
> 
> You may want to make a few copies and just practice on the center portion of the design, if you wish. If you already cut the frame, you can just apply the pattern to the center area if you already haven't (we covered separating the frame from the center area in the last lesson on bevel cutting self-framing plaques). Either way, you can choose which will work best for you.
> 
> In the illustration below, the red dots indicate suggested entry points. Use the smallest bit you can to accommodate a 2/0 reverse tooth scroll saw blade and drill your holes. I also like using brad point drill bits whenever possible, as I find that it is easier to drill accurately with them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When choosing where to drill the entry holes, in general, I look for the thickest part of the lines - especially on the long, thin areas.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you are dealing with very small circles or tear drop shapes, as you have in this design, I find it is best to drill on the far rounded edge, just up to the line. That way you can complete the cutting of the shape from first one side of the hole, stopping at the point, and then back the blade back to the entry hole and complete the cut coming from the other side. This is shown by the drawing below and then later demonstrated in the video:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once your holes are drilled, be sure to sand the back of your design so that it will lay flat on the table when you cut. This is very important when you have designs with small details such as this, as you don't want it to rock while you are trying to cut.
> 
> When cutting long curves and swirls, I recommend that you cut the line to the inside of the curve first. Cut along the inside line until you reach the point (marked by the 'x')
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Without turning the piece, back the blade along the line you just scrolled until you reach the entry hole:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut the opposite side of the line until you meet up at the point again, as indicated once again by the 'x'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue to cut all the swirl pieces in the same manner.
> 
> One thing that I wanted to note - when doing designs such as these, I drill holes into the buds or pods and cut them separately from when I cut the stem. Even though they do meet up with the stem, if you cut into them from the stem, it makes it a much more difficult cut. I find it is best to drill at the furthest (rounded) part of the bud or pod and then scroll one side of the bud at a time, stopping at the point of the teardrop on the first side, and continuing through to the stem on the second pass.
> 
> The following illustrations will show this more clearly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also made you a video showing me demonstrating many of these points. I hope you enjoy watching it and it helps you understand the process clearly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By following these steps and a little bit of practice, you are well on your way to cutting negative scroll saw designs.
> 
> Now there was nothing 'negative' about that, was there?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you enjoyed the lesson!


Thanks for posting this lesson, Sheila. You did a great job on it.
Rick


----------



## macfil20

scrollgirl said:


> *Lesson 10 - Cutting Negative Designs*
> 
> In scroll sawing, there are several different types of ways to make a nice design. Some people make beautiful portraits by playing with lights and shadows. Here is an example of portrait designs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The above portrait was designed by my partner Keith. I have not yet done much portrait cutting, but there are many scrollers here such as Scroll3r, KnotCurser and William who do really nice work on them.
> 
> Another type of design is what is referred to as a 'positive' design. In that piece, the design consists of what material is left behind after scroll sawing. Here is an example of a positive design that I created:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can also have what is called a 'negative' type of design. In this type of scroll work, the part of the design that is at focus is the area where the material is removed from. Here is the negative version of the above design:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, these are essentially the same scenes but they have two very different looks. The positive design is a bit more delicate, as there are several thin pieces that may be prone to breaking. I decided to use a thin veneer backer on that piece so that it would be stronger, and also to give it a solid, contrasting background so that the design would show up nicely.
> 
> Both versions are nice, but for today's lesson we are going to focus on cutting a negative type design and look into the most efficient way to create them.
> 
> In Lesson 9 I had a link for you to download a pattern that I prepared for you which was a self-framing plaque. The design had a positive scroll saw design on the frame and the inner part of the frame is a negative type of scroll saw design. If you haven't yet downloaded it, you can do so here.
> 
> You may want to make a few copies and just practice on the center portion of the design, if you wish. If you already cut the frame, you can just apply the pattern to the center area if you already haven't (we covered separating the frame from the center area in the last lesson on bevel cutting self-framing plaques). Either way, you can choose which will work best for you.
> 
> In the illustration below, the red dots indicate suggested entry points. Use the smallest bit you can to accommodate a 2/0 reverse tooth scroll saw blade and drill your holes. I also like using brad point drill bits whenever possible, as I find that it is easier to drill accurately with them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When choosing where to drill the entry holes, in general, I look for the thickest part of the lines - especially on the long, thin areas.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you are dealing with very small circles or tear drop shapes, as you have in this design, I find it is best to drill on the far rounded edge, just up to the line. That way you can complete the cutting of the shape from first one side of the hole, stopping at the point, and then back the blade back to the entry hole and complete the cut coming from the other side. This is shown by the drawing below and then later demonstrated in the video:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once your holes are drilled, be sure to sand the back of your design so that it will lay flat on the table when you cut. This is very important when you have designs with small details such as this, as you don't want it to rock while you are trying to cut.
> 
> When cutting long curves and swirls, I recommend that you cut the line to the inside of the curve first. Cut along the inside line until you reach the point (marked by the 'x')
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Without turning the piece, back the blade along the line you just scrolled until you reach the entry hole:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut the opposite side of the line until you meet up at the point again, as indicated once again by the 'x'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue to cut all the swirl pieces in the same manner.
> 
> One thing that I wanted to note - when doing designs such as these, I drill holes into the buds or pods and cut them separately from when I cut the stem. Even though they do meet up with the stem, if you cut into them from the stem, it makes it a much more difficult cut. I find it is best to drill at the furthest (rounded) part of the bud or pod and then scroll one side of the bud at a time, stopping at the point of the teardrop on the first side, and continuing through to the stem on the second pass.
> 
> The following illustrations will show this more clearly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also made you a video showing me demonstrating many of these points. I hope you enjoy watching it and it helps you understand the process clearly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By following these steps and a little bit of practice, you are well on your way to cutting negative scroll saw designs.
> 
> Now there was nothing 'negative' about that, was there?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you enjoyed the lesson!


Great video Sheila. I now know what I was doing wrong. I have not cut in 1 year so I need lots of practice.
JP


----------



## Bearpie

scrollgirl said:


> *Lesson 10 - Cutting Negative Designs*
> 
> In scroll sawing, there are several different types of ways to make a nice design. Some people make beautiful portraits by playing with lights and shadows. Here is an example of portrait designs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The above portrait was designed by my partner Keith. I have not yet done much portrait cutting, but there are many scrollers here such as Scroll3r, KnotCurser and William who do really nice work on them.
> 
> Another type of design is what is referred to as a 'positive' design. In that piece, the design consists of what material is left behind after scroll sawing. Here is an example of a positive design that I created:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can also have what is called a 'negative' type of design. In this type of scroll work, the part of the design that is at focus is the area where the material is removed from. Here is the negative version of the above design:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, these are essentially the same scenes but they have two very different looks. The positive design is a bit more delicate, as there are several thin pieces that may be prone to breaking. I decided to use a thin veneer backer on that piece so that it would be stronger, and also to give it a solid, contrasting background so that the design would show up nicely.
> 
> Both versions are nice, but for today's lesson we are going to focus on cutting a negative type design and look into the most efficient way to create them.
> 
> In Lesson 9 I had a link for you to download a pattern that I prepared for you which was a self-framing plaque. The design had a positive scroll saw design on the frame and the inner part of the frame is a negative type of scroll saw design. If you haven't yet downloaded it, you can do so here.
> 
> You may want to make a few copies and just practice on the center portion of the design, if you wish. If you already cut the frame, you can just apply the pattern to the center area if you already haven't (we covered separating the frame from the center area in the last lesson on bevel cutting self-framing plaques). Either way, you can choose which will work best for you.
> 
> In the illustration below, the red dots indicate suggested entry points. Use the smallest bit you can to accommodate a 2/0 reverse tooth scroll saw blade and drill your holes. I also like using brad point drill bits whenever possible, as I find that it is easier to drill accurately with them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When choosing where to drill the entry holes, in general, I look for the thickest part of the lines - especially on the long, thin areas.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you are dealing with very small circles or tear drop shapes, as you have in this design, I find it is best to drill on the far rounded edge, just up to the line. That way you can complete the cutting of the shape from first one side of the hole, stopping at the point, and then back the blade back to the entry hole and complete the cut coming from the other side. This is shown by the drawing below and then later demonstrated in the video:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once your holes are drilled, be sure to sand the back of your design so that it will lay flat on the table when you cut. This is very important when you have designs with small details such as this, as you don't want it to rock while you are trying to cut.
> 
> When cutting long curves and swirls, I recommend that you cut the line to the inside of the curve first. Cut along the inside line until you reach the point (marked by the 'x')
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Without turning the piece, back the blade along the line you just scrolled until you reach the entry hole:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut the opposite side of the line until you meet up at the point again, as indicated once again by the 'x'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue to cut all the swirl pieces in the same manner.
> 
> One thing that I wanted to note - when doing designs such as these, I drill holes into the buds or pods and cut them separately from when I cut the stem. Even though they do meet up with the stem, if you cut into them from the stem, it makes it a much more difficult cut. I find it is best to drill at the furthest (rounded) part of the bud or pod and then scroll one side of the bud at a time, stopping at the point of the teardrop on the first side, and continuing through to the stem on the second pass.
> 
> The following illustrations will show this more clearly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also made you a video showing me demonstrating many of these points. I hope you enjoy watching it and it helps you understand the process clearly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By following these steps and a little bit of practice, you are well on your way to cutting negative scroll saw designs.
> 
> Now there was nothing 'negative' about that, was there?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you enjoyed the lesson!


I was most impressed with the negative picture of the cat! That is an awesome picture!


----------



## knottywoodcrafts

scrollgirl said:


> *Lesson 10 - Cutting Negative Designs*
> 
> In scroll sawing, there are several different types of ways to make a nice design. Some people make beautiful portraits by playing with lights and shadows. Here is an example of portrait designs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The above portrait was designed by my partner Keith. I have not yet done much portrait cutting, but there are many scrollers here such as Scroll3r, KnotCurser and William who do really nice work on them.
> 
> Another type of design is what is referred to as a 'positive' design. In that piece, the design consists of what material is left behind after scroll sawing. Here is an example of a positive design that I created:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can also have what is called a 'negative' type of design. In this type of scroll work, the part of the design that is at focus is the area where the material is removed from. Here is the negative version of the above design:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, these are essentially the same scenes but they have two very different looks. The positive design is a bit more delicate, as there are several thin pieces that may be prone to breaking. I decided to use a thin veneer backer on that piece so that it would be stronger, and also to give it a solid, contrasting background so that the design would show up nicely.
> 
> Both versions are nice, but for today's lesson we are going to focus on cutting a negative type design and look into the most efficient way to create them.
> 
> In Lesson 9 I had a link for you to download a pattern that I prepared for you which was a self-framing plaque. The design had a positive scroll saw design on the frame and the inner part of the frame is a negative type of scroll saw design. If you haven't yet downloaded it, you can do so here.
> 
> You may want to make a few copies and just practice on the center portion of the design, if you wish. If you already cut the frame, you can just apply the pattern to the center area if you already haven't (we covered separating the frame from the center area in the last lesson on bevel cutting self-framing plaques). Either way, you can choose which will work best for you.
> 
> In the illustration below, the red dots indicate suggested entry points. Use the smallest bit you can to accommodate a 2/0 reverse tooth scroll saw blade and drill your holes. I also like using brad point drill bits whenever possible, as I find that it is easier to drill accurately with them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When choosing where to drill the entry holes, in general, I look for the thickest part of the lines - especially on the long, thin areas.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you are dealing with very small circles or tear drop shapes, as you have in this design, I find it is best to drill on the far rounded edge, just up to the line. That way you can complete the cutting of the shape from first one side of the hole, stopping at the point, and then back the blade back to the entry hole and complete the cut coming from the other side. This is shown by the drawing below and then later demonstrated in the video:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once your holes are drilled, be sure to sand the back of your design so that it will lay flat on the table when you cut. This is very important when you have designs with small details such as this, as you don't want it to rock while you are trying to cut.
> 
> When cutting long curves and swirls, I recommend that you cut the line to the inside of the curve first. Cut along the inside line until you reach the point (marked by the 'x')
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Without turning the piece, back the blade along the line you just scrolled until you reach the entry hole:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut the opposite side of the line until you meet up at the point again, as indicated once again by the 'x'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue to cut all the swirl pieces in the same manner.
> 
> One thing that I wanted to note - when doing designs such as these, I drill holes into the buds or pods and cut them separately from when I cut the stem. Even though they do meet up with the stem, if you cut into them from the stem, it makes it a much more difficult cut. I find it is best to drill at the furthest (rounded) part of the bud or pod and then scroll one side of the bud at a time, stopping at the point of the teardrop on the first side, and continuing through to the stem on the second pass.
> 
> The following illustrations will show this more clearly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also made you a video showing me demonstrating many of these points. I hope you enjoy watching it and it helps you understand the process clearly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By following these steps and a little bit of practice, you are well on your way to cutting negative scroll saw designs.
> 
> Now there was nothing 'negative' about that, was there?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you enjoyed the lesson!


Sheila, I must say that you are one of my most favorite artisit. Your work is amazing and I look forward to future instructions.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Lesson 10 - Cutting Negative Designs*
> 
> In scroll sawing, there are several different types of ways to make a nice design. Some people make beautiful portraits by playing with lights and shadows. Here is an example of portrait designs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The above portrait was designed by my partner Keith. I have not yet done much portrait cutting, but there are many scrollers here such as Scroll3r, KnotCurser and William who do really nice work on them.
> 
> Another type of design is what is referred to as a 'positive' design. In that piece, the design consists of what material is left behind after scroll sawing. Here is an example of a positive design that I created:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can also have what is called a 'negative' type of design. In this type of scroll work, the part of the design that is at focus is the area where the material is removed from. Here is the negative version of the above design:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, these are essentially the same scenes but they have two very different looks. The positive design is a bit more delicate, as there are several thin pieces that may be prone to breaking. I decided to use a thin veneer backer on that piece so that it would be stronger, and also to give it a solid, contrasting background so that the design would show up nicely.
> 
> Both versions are nice, but for today's lesson we are going to focus on cutting a negative type design and look into the most efficient way to create them.
> 
> In Lesson 9 I had a link for you to download a pattern that I prepared for you which was a self-framing plaque. The design had a positive scroll saw design on the frame and the inner part of the frame is a negative type of scroll saw design. If you haven't yet downloaded it, you can do so here.
> 
> You may want to make a few copies and just practice on the center portion of the design, if you wish. If you already cut the frame, you can just apply the pattern to the center area if you already haven't (we covered separating the frame from the center area in the last lesson on bevel cutting self-framing plaques). Either way, you can choose which will work best for you.
> 
> In the illustration below, the red dots indicate suggested entry points. Use the smallest bit you can to accommodate a 2/0 reverse tooth scroll saw blade and drill your holes. I also like using brad point drill bits whenever possible, as I find that it is easier to drill accurately with them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When choosing where to drill the entry holes, in general, I look for the thickest part of the lines - especially on the long, thin areas.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you are dealing with very small circles or tear drop shapes, as you have in this design, I find it is best to drill on the far rounded edge, just up to the line. That way you can complete the cutting of the shape from first one side of the hole, stopping at the point, and then back the blade back to the entry hole and complete the cut coming from the other side. This is shown by the drawing below and then later demonstrated in the video:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once your holes are drilled, be sure to sand the back of your design so that it will lay flat on the table when you cut. This is very important when you have designs with small details such as this, as you don't want it to rock while you are trying to cut.
> 
> When cutting long curves and swirls, I recommend that you cut the line to the inside of the curve first. Cut along the inside line until you reach the point (marked by the 'x')
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Without turning the piece, back the blade along the line you just scrolled until you reach the entry hole:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut the opposite side of the line until you meet up at the point again, as indicated once again by the 'x'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue to cut all the swirl pieces in the same manner.
> 
> One thing that I wanted to note - when doing designs such as these, I drill holes into the buds or pods and cut them separately from when I cut the stem. Even though they do meet up with the stem, if you cut into them from the stem, it makes it a much more difficult cut. I find it is best to drill at the furthest (rounded) part of the bud or pod and then scroll one side of the bud at a time, stopping at the point of the teardrop on the first side, and continuing through to the stem on the second pass.
> 
> The following illustrations will show this more clearly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also made you a video showing me demonstrating many of these points. I hope you enjoy watching it and it helps you understand the process clearly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By following these steps and a little bit of practice, you are well on your way to cutting negative scroll saw designs.
> 
> Now there was nothing 'negative' about that, was there?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you enjoyed the lesson!


I am glad you all liked the class. Sometimes I feel like I am 'stating the obvious' and then I hear that you are learning from what I am saying and I realize that I am helping somewhat. It is a good feeling. Everything is really simple when it is broken down into steps. We need to look at the parts of things rather than the whole when we are learning new techniques. It makes it all so much easier. 

Erwin - I also loved that picture. It is an incredible display of light and dark and has a tremendous amount of depth. I tried to search for the credits for it and have come up with nothing. I would like to acknowledge the creator if at all possible. It is a form of art in itself, I think.

Thank you for the nice comments everyone. I am glad you appreciate the lessons. 

Sheila


----------



## tomd

scrollgirl said:


> *Lesson 10 - Cutting Negative Designs*
> 
> In scroll sawing, there are several different types of ways to make a nice design. Some people make beautiful portraits by playing with lights and shadows. Here is an example of portrait designs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The above portrait was designed by my partner Keith. I have not yet done much portrait cutting, but there are many scrollers here such as Scroll3r, KnotCurser and William who do really nice work on them.
> 
> Another type of design is what is referred to as a 'positive' design. In that piece, the design consists of what material is left behind after scroll sawing. Here is an example of a positive design that I created:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can also have what is called a 'negative' type of design. In this type of scroll work, the part of the design that is at focus is the area where the material is removed from. Here is the negative version of the above design:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, these are essentially the same scenes but they have two very different looks. The positive design is a bit more delicate, as there are several thin pieces that may be prone to breaking. I decided to use a thin veneer backer on that piece so that it would be stronger, and also to give it a solid, contrasting background so that the design would show up nicely.
> 
> Both versions are nice, but for today's lesson we are going to focus on cutting a negative type design and look into the most efficient way to create them.
> 
> In Lesson 9 I had a link for you to download a pattern that I prepared for you which was a self-framing plaque. The design had a positive scroll saw design on the frame and the inner part of the frame is a negative type of scroll saw design. If you haven't yet downloaded it, you can do so here.
> 
> You may want to make a few copies and just practice on the center portion of the design, if you wish. If you already cut the frame, you can just apply the pattern to the center area if you already haven't (we covered separating the frame from the center area in the last lesson on bevel cutting self-framing plaques). Either way, you can choose which will work best for you.
> 
> In the illustration below, the red dots indicate suggested entry points. Use the smallest bit you can to accommodate a 2/0 reverse tooth scroll saw blade and drill your holes. I also like using brad point drill bits whenever possible, as I find that it is easier to drill accurately with them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When choosing where to drill the entry holes, in general, I look for the thickest part of the lines - especially on the long, thin areas.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you are dealing with very small circles or tear drop shapes, as you have in this design, I find it is best to drill on the far rounded edge, just up to the line. That way you can complete the cutting of the shape from first one side of the hole, stopping at the point, and then back the blade back to the entry hole and complete the cut coming from the other side. This is shown by the drawing below and then later demonstrated in the video:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once your holes are drilled, be sure to sand the back of your design so that it will lay flat on the table when you cut. This is very important when you have designs with small details such as this, as you don't want it to rock while you are trying to cut.
> 
> When cutting long curves and swirls, I recommend that you cut the line to the inside of the curve first. Cut along the inside line until you reach the point (marked by the 'x')
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Without turning the piece, back the blade along the line you just scrolled until you reach the entry hole:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut the opposite side of the line until you meet up at the point again, as indicated once again by the 'x'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Continue to cut all the swirl pieces in the same manner.
> 
> One thing that I wanted to note - when doing designs such as these, I drill holes into the buds or pods and cut them separately from when I cut the stem. Even though they do meet up with the stem, if you cut into them from the stem, it makes it a much more difficult cut. I find it is best to drill at the furthest (rounded) part of the bud or pod and then scroll one side of the bud at a time, stopping at the point of the teardrop on the first side, and continuing through to the stem on the second pass.
> 
> The following illustrations will show this more clearly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also made you a video showing me demonstrating many of these points. I hope you enjoy watching it and it helps you understand the process clearly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By following these steps and a little bit of practice, you are well on your way to cutting negative scroll saw designs.
> 
> Now there was nothing 'negative' about that, was there?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you enjoyed the lesson!


Thanks for the lessons, very informative, Great class. I'm making a serious effort to get better at this.


----------



## scrollgirl

*Class is Resuming! - "Reindeer Games" Layered Ornaments Part 1*

Hello, everyone! It's been a while since I've been here at the class. Those of you who have been following my daily blog know how busy I have been with many different things. As usual, I wish that there were 48 hours in a day (and then some time to sleep on top of that!) But there aren't and I have to make due with the same 24 that everyone else has to work with. And that is OK.

Lately I have had a lot of people write me asking many of the same questions regarding different aspects of scroll sawing. While some of them have been answered here in previous classes, I thought that I would take the time to add some more lessons to the class here on Lumberjocks. This time, instead of having everyone follow along, I am going to do more of a demonstration of making a project from start to finish. I think that by doing things this way, I will better be able to cover all the 'little' things that pop up when we are involved in doing a project. These things in themselves may seem like small things, and for most people don't even warrant asking questions about - but in the process of building the project, each element is equally important, no matter how small, in the overall success. It's somewhat like building a wall. Each brick that is put in place lends to the overall strength and success of the structure.

So let's get started!

The project that I am going to create is a new one I designed called "Reindeer Games Overlay Scroll Sawn Ornaments." In making it, each ornament consists of two pieces - a base with some negative lettering spelling the name of the reindeer, and an overlay piece with a silhouette of the reindeer in flight. Each of the layers are approximately 1/8" think stock, which makes them ideal for making multiple pieces at a time by stack cutting.

Because I made two sets (One in maple and walnut and the other in 1/8" Baltic birch plywood) I will be demonstrating how you can finish the ornaments in two different ways to achieve very different results. Hopefully, by following me through this process step-by-step, you will pick up a few things that you may have not previously known.

I realize that because of the way this is set up some of the information may be things we already discussed in previous classes, but since that class was a year ago, I don't see that as an issue. Besides, seeing these process used in practical application will not only reinforce your knowledge, but it may also help you apply some of these techniques to your own projects and daily routines.

So let's get on with it! Class is once again in session! Of course I welcome and appreciate all comments and discussions about not only these techniques, but also those that have been successful for you. We learn a great deal from each other by sharing information and I by no means feel that I know everything! I always say that there are many paths to the same destination. So lets see how many different paths we can explore to expand our knowledge and skills here.

I hope you enjoy the video. Part 1 includes the introduction and set up of the pieces.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=nkyW-_4CPU4

I have embedded the video here, for those of you who don't like to click on things that leave the site, but if you want to go to YouTube and subscribe to my channel, you can do so here:

Scrollgirlcanada's Channel

Once there, you can see other videos that I have released and subscribe to my channel. When you subscribe, you receive an email notification every time I upload a new video. I plan on doing more videos on both scroll sawing and also finishing and different painting techniques, so if you are interested in those subjects, you may want to subscribe.

Thanks to Martin and Debbie for allowing me to post here in this forum. It is wonderful to be able to share ideas with you all and learn from you all too!

Enjoy!


----------



## Alexandre

scrollgirl said:


> *Class is Resuming! - "Reindeer Games" Layered Ornaments Part 1*
> 
> Hello, everyone! It's been a while since I've been here at the class. Those of you who have been following my daily blog know how busy I have been with many different things. As usual, I wish that there were 48 hours in a day (and then some time to sleep on top of that!) But there aren't and I have to make due with the same 24 that everyone else has to work with. And that is OK.
> 
> Lately I have had a lot of people write me asking many of the same questions regarding different aspects of scroll sawing. While some of them have been answered here in previous classes, I thought that I would take the time to add some more lessons to the class here on Lumberjocks. This time, instead of having everyone follow along, I am going to do more of a demonstration of making a project from start to finish. I think that by doing things this way, I will better be able to cover all the 'little' things that pop up when we are involved in doing a project. These things in themselves may seem like small things, and for most people don't even warrant asking questions about - but in the process of building the project, each element is equally important, no matter how small, in the overall success. It's somewhat like building a wall. Each brick that is put in place lends to the overall strength and success of the structure.
> 
> So let's get started!
> 
> The project that I am going to create is a new one I designed called "Reindeer Games Overlay Scroll Sawn Ornaments." In making it, each ornament consists of two pieces - a base with some negative lettering spelling the name of the reindeer, and an overlay piece with a silhouette of the reindeer in flight. Each of the layers are approximately 1/8" think stock, which makes them ideal for making multiple pieces at a time by stack cutting.
> 
> Because I made two sets (One in maple and walnut and the other in 1/8" Baltic birch plywood) I will be demonstrating how you can finish the ornaments in two different ways to achieve very different results. Hopefully, by following me through this process step-by-step, you will pick up a few things that you may have not previously known.
> 
> I realize that because of the way this is set up some of the information may be things we already discussed in previous classes, but since that class was a year ago, I don't see that as an issue. Besides, seeing these process used in practical application will not only reinforce your knowledge, but it may also help you apply some of these techniques to your own projects and daily routines.
> 
> So let's get on with it! Class is once again in session! Of course I welcome and appreciate all comments and discussions about not only these techniques, but also those that have been successful for you. We learn a great deal from each other by sharing information and I by no means feel that I know everything! I always say that there are many paths to the same destination. So lets see how many different paths we can explore to expand our knowledge and skills here.
> 
> I hope you enjoy the video. Part 1 includes the introduction and set up of the pieces.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=nkyW-_4CPU4
> 
> I have embedded the video here, for those of you who don't like to click on things that leave the site, but if you want to go to YouTube and subscribe to my channel, you can do so here:
> 
> Scrollgirlcanada's Channel
> 
> Once there, you can see other videos that I have released and subscribe to my channel. When you subscribe, you receive an email notification every time I upload a new video. I plan on doing more videos on both scroll sawing and also finishing and different painting techniques, so if you are interested in those subjects, you may want to subscribe.
> 
> Thanks to Martin and Debbie for allowing me to post here in this forum. It is wonderful to be able to share ideas with you all and learn from you all too!
> 
> Enjoy!


Shiela, one day, ima make a bandsawn box 100 microns wide…
Than, I can say I BEAT SCROLLGIRL!


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Class is Resuming! - "Reindeer Games" Layered Ornaments Part 1*
> 
> Hello, everyone! It's been a while since I've been here at the class. Those of you who have been following my daily blog know how busy I have been with many different things. As usual, I wish that there were 48 hours in a day (and then some time to sleep on top of that!) But there aren't and I have to make due with the same 24 that everyone else has to work with. And that is OK.
> 
> Lately I have had a lot of people write me asking many of the same questions regarding different aspects of scroll sawing. While some of them have been answered here in previous classes, I thought that I would take the time to add some more lessons to the class here on Lumberjocks. This time, instead of having everyone follow along, I am going to do more of a demonstration of making a project from start to finish. I think that by doing things this way, I will better be able to cover all the 'little' things that pop up when we are involved in doing a project. These things in themselves may seem like small things, and for most people don't even warrant asking questions about - but in the process of building the project, each element is equally important, no matter how small, in the overall success. It's somewhat like building a wall. Each brick that is put in place lends to the overall strength and success of the structure.
> 
> So let's get started!
> 
> The project that I am going to create is a new one I designed called "Reindeer Games Overlay Scroll Sawn Ornaments." In making it, each ornament consists of two pieces - a base with some negative lettering spelling the name of the reindeer, and an overlay piece with a silhouette of the reindeer in flight. Each of the layers are approximately 1/8" think stock, which makes them ideal for making multiple pieces at a time by stack cutting.
> 
> Because I made two sets (One in maple and walnut and the other in 1/8" Baltic birch plywood) I will be demonstrating how you can finish the ornaments in two different ways to achieve very different results. Hopefully, by following me through this process step-by-step, you will pick up a few things that you may have not previously known.
> 
> I realize that because of the way this is set up some of the information may be things we already discussed in previous classes, but since that class was a year ago, I don't see that as an issue. Besides, seeing these process used in practical application will not only reinforce your knowledge, but it may also help you apply some of these techniques to your own projects and daily routines.
> 
> So let's get on with it! Class is once again in session! Of course I welcome and appreciate all comments and discussions about not only these techniques, but also those that have been successful for you. We learn a great deal from each other by sharing information and I by no means feel that I know everything! I always say that there are many paths to the same destination. So lets see how many different paths we can explore to expand our knowledge and skills here.
> 
> I hope you enjoy the video. Part 1 includes the introduction and set up of the pieces.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=nkyW-_4CPU4
> 
> I have embedded the video here, for those of you who don't like to click on things that leave the site, but if you want to go to YouTube and subscribe to my channel, you can do so here:
> 
> Scrollgirlcanada's Channel
> 
> Once there, you can see other videos that I have released and subscribe to my channel. When you subscribe, you receive an email notification every time I upload a new video. I plan on doing more videos on both scroll sawing and also finishing and different painting techniques, so if you are interested in those subjects, you may want to subscribe.
> 
> Thanks to Martin and Debbie for allowing me to post here in this forum. It is wonderful to be able to share ideas with you all and learn from you all too!
> 
> Enjoy!


Just make sure you have all of your fingers left Alexandre! Those band saws bite a lot harder than scroll saws! 

Sheila


----------



## BertFlores58

scrollgirl said:


> *Class is Resuming! - "Reindeer Games" Layered Ornaments Part 1*
> 
> Hello, everyone! It's been a while since I've been here at the class. Those of you who have been following my daily blog know how busy I have been with many different things. As usual, I wish that there were 48 hours in a day (and then some time to sleep on top of that!) But there aren't and I have to make due with the same 24 that everyone else has to work with. And that is OK.
> 
> Lately I have had a lot of people write me asking many of the same questions regarding different aspects of scroll sawing. While some of them have been answered here in previous classes, I thought that I would take the time to add some more lessons to the class here on Lumberjocks. This time, instead of having everyone follow along, I am going to do more of a demonstration of making a project from start to finish. I think that by doing things this way, I will better be able to cover all the 'little' things that pop up when we are involved in doing a project. These things in themselves may seem like small things, and for most people don't even warrant asking questions about - but in the process of building the project, each element is equally important, no matter how small, in the overall success. It's somewhat like building a wall. Each brick that is put in place lends to the overall strength and success of the structure.
> 
> So let's get started!
> 
> The project that I am going to create is a new one I designed called "Reindeer Games Overlay Scroll Sawn Ornaments." In making it, each ornament consists of two pieces - a base with some negative lettering spelling the name of the reindeer, and an overlay piece with a silhouette of the reindeer in flight. Each of the layers are approximately 1/8" think stock, which makes them ideal for making multiple pieces at a time by stack cutting.
> 
> Because I made two sets (One in maple and walnut and the other in 1/8" Baltic birch plywood) I will be demonstrating how you can finish the ornaments in two different ways to achieve very different results. Hopefully, by following me through this process step-by-step, you will pick up a few things that you may have not previously known.
> 
> I realize that because of the way this is set up some of the information may be things we already discussed in previous classes, but since that class was a year ago, I don't see that as an issue. Besides, seeing these process used in practical application will not only reinforce your knowledge, but it may also help you apply some of these techniques to your own projects and daily routines.
> 
> So let's get on with it! Class is once again in session! Of course I welcome and appreciate all comments and discussions about not only these techniques, but also those that have been successful for you. We learn a great deal from each other by sharing information and I by no means feel that I know everything! I always say that there are many paths to the same destination. So lets see how many different paths we can explore to expand our knowledge and skills here.
> 
> I hope you enjoy the video. Part 1 includes the introduction and set up of the pieces.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=nkyW-_4CPU4
> 
> I have embedded the video here, for those of you who don't like to click on things that leave the site, but if you want to go to YouTube and subscribe to my channel, you can do so here:
> 
> Scrollgirlcanada's Channel
> 
> Once there, you can see other videos that I have released and subscribe to my channel. When you subscribe, you receive an email notification every time I upload a new video. I plan on doing more videos on both scroll sawing and also finishing and different painting techniques, so if you are interested in those subjects, you may want to subscribe.
> 
> Thanks to Martin and Debbie for allowing me to post here in this forum. It is wonderful to be able to share ideas with you all and learn from you all too!
> 
> Enjoy!


Welcome back teacher Sheila!

The courses never ends, they advance…. so let us start the advance courses. Cutting been done, now trade secrets are comming… interesting.

Thanks. I will follow.


----------



## Kentuk55

scrollgirl said:


> *Class is Resuming! - "Reindeer Games" Layered Ornaments Part 1*
> 
> Hello, everyone! It's been a while since I've been here at the class. Those of you who have been following my daily blog know how busy I have been with many different things. As usual, I wish that there were 48 hours in a day (and then some time to sleep on top of that!) But there aren't and I have to make due with the same 24 that everyone else has to work with. And that is OK.
> 
> Lately I have had a lot of people write me asking many of the same questions regarding different aspects of scroll sawing. While some of them have been answered here in previous classes, I thought that I would take the time to add some more lessons to the class here on Lumberjocks. This time, instead of having everyone follow along, I am going to do more of a demonstration of making a project from start to finish. I think that by doing things this way, I will better be able to cover all the 'little' things that pop up when we are involved in doing a project. These things in themselves may seem like small things, and for most people don't even warrant asking questions about - but in the process of building the project, each element is equally important, no matter how small, in the overall success. It's somewhat like building a wall. Each brick that is put in place lends to the overall strength and success of the structure.
> 
> So let's get started!
> 
> The project that I am going to create is a new one I designed called "Reindeer Games Overlay Scroll Sawn Ornaments." In making it, each ornament consists of two pieces - a base with some negative lettering spelling the name of the reindeer, and an overlay piece with a silhouette of the reindeer in flight. Each of the layers are approximately 1/8" think stock, which makes them ideal for making multiple pieces at a time by stack cutting.
> 
> Because I made two sets (One in maple and walnut and the other in 1/8" Baltic birch plywood) I will be demonstrating how you can finish the ornaments in two different ways to achieve very different results. Hopefully, by following me through this process step-by-step, you will pick up a few things that you may have not previously known.
> 
> I realize that because of the way this is set up some of the information may be things we already discussed in previous classes, but since that class was a year ago, I don't see that as an issue. Besides, seeing these process used in practical application will not only reinforce your knowledge, but it may also help you apply some of these techniques to your own projects and daily routines.
> 
> So let's get on with it! Class is once again in session! Of course I welcome and appreciate all comments and discussions about not only these techniques, but also those that have been successful for you. We learn a great deal from each other by sharing information and I by no means feel that I know everything! I always say that there are many paths to the same destination. So lets see how many different paths we can explore to expand our knowledge and skills here.
> 
> I hope you enjoy the video. Part 1 includes the introduction and set up of the pieces.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=nkyW-_4CPU4
> 
> I have embedded the video here, for those of you who don't like to click on things that leave the site, but if you want to go to YouTube and subscribe to my channel, you can do so here:
> 
> Scrollgirlcanada's Channel
> 
> Once there, you can see other videos that I have released and subscribe to my channel. When you subscribe, you receive an email notification every time I upload a new video. I plan on doing more videos on both scroll sawing and also finishing and different painting techniques, so if you are interested in those subjects, you may want to subscribe.
> 
> Thanks to Martin and Debbie for allowing me to post here in this forum. It is wonderful to be able to share ideas with you all and learn from you all too!
> 
> Enjoy!


Makes gr8 sense to me, and thnk you fer doin it


----------



## jack2770

scrollgirl said:


> *Class is Resuming! - "Reindeer Games" Layered Ornaments Part 1*
> 
> Hello, everyone! It's been a while since I've been here at the class. Those of you who have been following my daily blog know how busy I have been with many different things. As usual, I wish that there were 48 hours in a day (and then some time to sleep on top of that!) But there aren't and I have to make due with the same 24 that everyone else has to work with. And that is OK.
> 
> Lately I have had a lot of people write me asking many of the same questions regarding different aspects of scroll sawing. While some of them have been answered here in previous classes, I thought that I would take the time to add some more lessons to the class here on Lumberjocks. This time, instead of having everyone follow along, I am going to do more of a demonstration of making a project from start to finish. I think that by doing things this way, I will better be able to cover all the 'little' things that pop up when we are involved in doing a project. These things in themselves may seem like small things, and for most people don't even warrant asking questions about - but in the process of building the project, each element is equally important, no matter how small, in the overall success. It's somewhat like building a wall. Each brick that is put in place lends to the overall strength and success of the structure.
> 
> So let's get started!
> 
> The project that I am going to create is a new one I designed called "Reindeer Games Overlay Scroll Sawn Ornaments." In making it, each ornament consists of two pieces - a base with some negative lettering spelling the name of the reindeer, and an overlay piece with a silhouette of the reindeer in flight. Each of the layers are approximately 1/8" think stock, which makes them ideal for making multiple pieces at a time by stack cutting.
> 
> Because I made two sets (One in maple and walnut and the other in 1/8" Baltic birch plywood) I will be demonstrating how you can finish the ornaments in two different ways to achieve very different results. Hopefully, by following me through this process step-by-step, you will pick up a few things that you may have not previously known.
> 
> I realize that because of the way this is set up some of the information may be things we already discussed in previous classes, but since that class was a year ago, I don't see that as an issue. Besides, seeing these process used in practical application will not only reinforce your knowledge, but it may also help you apply some of these techniques to your own projects and daily routines.
> 
> So let's get on with it! Class is once again in session! Of course I welcome and appreciate all comments and discussions about not only these techniques, but also those that have been successful for you. We learn a great deal from each other by sharing information and I by no means feel that I know everything! I always say that there are many paths to the same destination. So lets see how many different paths we can explore to expand our knowledge and skills here.
> 
> I hope you enjoy the video. Part 1 includes the introduction and set up of the pieces.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=nkyW-_4CPU4
> 
> I have embedded the video here, for those of you who don't like to click on things that leave the site, but if you want to go to YouTube and subscribe to my channel, you can do so here:
> 
> Scrollgirlcanada's Channel
> 
> Once there, you can see other videos that I have released and subscribe to my channel. When you subscribe, you receive an email notification every time I upload a new video. I plan on doing more videos on both scroll sawing and also finishing and different painting techniques, so if you are interested in those subjects, you may want to subscribe.
> 
> Thanks to Martin and Debbie for allowing me to post here in this forum. It is wonderful to be able to share ideas with you all and learn from you all too!
> 
> Enjoy!


Greetings from Colombia south america, I step by step lessons and doing the exercises, recently acquired the scroll saw and I think I made good progress with their classes and videos, congratulations and a hug.
sorry but I am using a translator of English.
I will continue practicing a lot, I love this work, and will follow you true to your school
thanks again.

Greetings from Colombia south america, I step by step lessons and doing the exercises, recently acquired the scroll saw and I think I made good progress with their classes and videos, congratulations and a hug.
sorry but I am using a translator of English.
I will continue practicing a lot, I love this work, and will follow you true to your school
thanks again.

Greetings from Colombia south america, I step by step lessons and doing the exercises, recently acquired the scroll saw and I think I made good progress with their classes and videos, congratulations and a hug.
sorry but I am using a translator of English.
I will continue practicing a lot, I love this work, and will follow you true to your school
thanks again.

Greetings from Colombia south america, I step by step lessons and doing the exercises, recently acquired the scroll saw and I think I made good progress with their classes and videos, congratulations and a hug.
sorry but I am using a translator of English.
I will continue practicing a lot, I love this work, and will follow you true to your school
thanks again.

Greetings from Colombia south america, I step by step lessons and doing the exercises, recently acquired the scroll saw and I think I made good progress with their classes and videos, congratulations and a hug.
sorry but I am using a translator of English.
I will continue practicing a lot, I love this work, and will follow you true to your school
thanks again.

Greetings from Colombia south america, I step by step lessons and doing the exercises, recently acquired the scroll saw and I think I made good progress with their classes and videos, congratulations and a hug.
sorry but I am using a translator of English.
I will continue practicing a lot, I love this work, and will follow you true to your school
thanks again.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Class is Resuming! - "Reindeer Games" Layered Ornaments Part 1*
> 
> Hello, everyone! It's been a while since I've been here at the class. Those of you who have been following my daily blog know how busy I have been with many different things. As usual, I wish that there were 48 hours in a day (and then some time to sleep on top of that!) But there aren't and I have to make due with the same 24 that everyone else has to work with. And that is OK.
> 
> Lately I have had a lot of people write me asking many of the same questions regarding different aspects of scroll sawing. While some of them have been answered here in previous classes, I thought that I would take the time to add some more lessons to the class here on Lumberjocks. This time, instead of having everyone follow along, I am going to do more of a demonstration of making a project from start to finish. I think that by doing things this way, I will better be able to cover all the 'little' things that pop up when we are involved in doing a project. These things in themselves may seem like small things, and for most people don't even warrant asking questions about - but in the process of building the project, each element is equally important, no matter how small, in the overall success. It's somewhat like building a wall. Each brick that is put in place lends to the overall strength and success of the structure.
> 
> So let's get started!
> 
> The project that I am going to create is a new one I designed called "Reindeer Games Overlay Scroll Sawn Ornaments." In making it, each ornament consists of two pieces - a base with some negative lettering spelling the name of the reindeer, and an overlay piece with a silhouette of the reindeer in flight. Each of the layers are approximately 1/8" think stock, which makes them ideal for making multiple pieces at a time by stack cutting.
> 
> Because I made two sets (One in maple and walnut and the other in 1/8" Baltic birch plywood) I will be demonstrating how you can finish the ornaments in two different ways to achieve very different results. Hopefully, by following me through this process step-by-step, you will pick up a few things that you may have not previously known.
> 
> I realize that because of the way this is set up some of the information may be things we already discussed in previous classes, but since that class was a year ago, I don't see that as an issue. Besides, seeing these process used in practical application will not only reinforce your knowledge, but it may also help you apply some of these techniques to your own projects and daily routines.
> 
> So let's get on with it! Class is once again in session! Of course I welcome and appreciate all comments and discussions about not only these techniques, but also those that have been successful for you. We learn a great deal from each other by sharing information and I by no means feel that I know everything! I always say that there are many paths to the same destination. So lets see how many different paths we can explore to expand our knowledge and skills here.
> 
> I hope you enjoy the video. Part 1 includes the introduction and set up of the pieces.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=nkyW-_4CPU4
> 
> I have embedded the video here, for those of you who don't like to click on things that leave the site, but if you want to go to YouTube and subscribe to my channel, you can do so here:
> 
> Scrollgirlcanada's Channel
> 
> Once there, you can see other videos that I have released and subscribe to my channel. When you subscribe, you receive an email notification every time I upload a new video. I plan on doing more videos on both scroll sawing and also finishing and different painting techniques, so if you are interested in those subjects, you may want to subscribe.
> 
> Thanks to Martin and Debbie for allowing me to post here in this forum. It is wonderful to be able to share ideas with you all and learn from you all too!
> 
> Enjoy!


Welcome, Javy! I will be posting the additional lessons in the next day or so. I hope you enjoy them and are able to understand everything.

Enjoy! Sheila


----------



## KenFitz

scrollgirl said:


> *Class is Resuming! - "Reindeer Games" Layered Ornaments Part 1*
> 
> Hello, everyone! It's been a while since I've been here at the class. Those of you who have been following my daily blog know how busy I have been with many different things. As usual, I wish that there were 48 hours in a day (and then some time to sleep on top of that!) But there aren't and I have to make due with the same 24 that everyone else has to work with. And that is OK.
> 
> Lately I have had a lot of people write me asking many of the same questions regarding different aspects of scroll sawing. While some of them have been answered here in previous classes, I thought that I would take the time to add some more lessons to the class here on Lumberjocks. This time, instead of having everyone follow along, I am going to do more of a demonstration of making a project from start to finish. I think that by doing things this way, I will better be able to cover all the 'little' things that pop up when we are involved in doing a project. These things in themselves may seem like small things, and for most people don't even warrant asking questions about - but in the process of building the project, each element is equally important, no matter how small, in the overall success. It's somewhat like building a wall. Each brick that is put in place lends to the overall strength and success of the structure.
> 
> So let's get started!
> 
> The project that I am going to create is a new one I designed called "Reindeer Games Overlay Scroll Sawn Ornaments." In making it, each ornament consists of two pieces - a base with some negative lettering spelling the name of the reindeer, and an overlay piece with a silhouette of the reindeer in flight. Each of the layers are approximately 1/8" think stock, which makes them ideal for making multiple pieces at a time by stack cutting.
> 
> Because I made two sets (One in maple and walnut and the other in 1/8" Baltic birch plywood) I will be demonstrating how you can finish the ornaments in two different ways to achieve very different results. Hopefully, by following me through this process step-by-step, you will pick up a few things that you may have not previously known.
> 
> I realize that because of the way this is set up some of the information may be things we already discussed in previous classes, but since that class was a year ago, I don't see that as an issue. Besides, seeing these process used in practical application will not only reinforce your knowledge, but it may also help you apply some of these techniques to your own projects and daily routines.
> 
> So let's get on with it! Class is once again in session! Of course I welcome and appreciate all comments and discussions about not only these techniques, but also those that have been successful for you. We learn a great deal from each other by sharing information and I by no means feel that I know everything! I always say that there are many paths to the same destination. So lets see how many different paths we can explore to expand our knowledge and skills here.
> 
> I hope you enjoy the video. Part 1 includes the introduction and set up of the pieces.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=nkyW-_4CPU4
> 
> I have embedded the video here, for those of you who don't like to click on things that leave the site, but if you want to go to YouTube and subscribe to my channel, you can do so here:
> 
> Scrollgirlcanada's Channel
> 
> Once there, you can see other videos that I have released and subscribe to my channel. When you subscribe, you receive an email notification every time I upload a new video. I plan on doing more videos on both scroll sawing and also finishing and different painting techniques, so if you are interested in those subjects, you may want to subscribe.
> 
> Thanks to Martin and Debbie for allowing me to post here in this forum. It is wonderful to be able to share ideas with you all and learn from you all too!
> 
> Enjoy!


Hi Sheila,

Well after all this time of following you, I decided to try this one out. Actually just getting started so I'm a little confused re: the blades. Do you have a post somewhere that talks blades?

Ken
P.S.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *Class is Resuming! - "Reindeer Games" Layered Ornaments Part 1*
> 
> Hello, everyone! It's been a while since I've been here at the class. Those of you who have been following my daily blog know how busy I have been with many different things. As usual, I wish that there were 48 hours in a day (and then some time to sleep on top of that!) But there aren't and I have to make due with the same 24 that everyone else has to work with. And that is OK.
> 
> Lately I have had a lot of people write me asking many of the same questions regarding different aspects of scroll sawing. While some of them have been answered here in previous classes, I thought that I would take the time to add some more lessons to the class here on Lumberjocks. This time, instead of having everyone follow along, I am going to do more of a demonstration of making a project from start to finish. I think that by doing things this way, I will better be able to cover all the 'little' things that pop up when we are involved in doing a project. These things in themselves may seem like small things, and for most people don't even warrant asking questions about - but in the process of building the project, each element is equally important, no matter how small, in the overall success. It's somewhat like building a wall. Each brick that is put in place lends to the overall strength and success of the structure.
> 
> So let's get started!
> 
> The project that I am going to create is a new one I designed called "Reindeer Games Overlay Scroll Sawn Ornaments." In making it, each ornament consists of two pieces - a base with some negative lettering spelling the name of the reindeer, and an overlay piece with a silhouette of the reindeer in flight. Each of the layers are approximately 1/8" think stock, which makes them ideal for making multiple pieces at a time by stack cutting.
> 
> Because I made two sets (One in maple and walnut and the other in 1/8" Baltic birch plywood) I will be demonstrating how you can finish the ornaments in two different ways to achieve very different results. Hopefully, by following me through this process step-by-step, you will pick up a few things that you may have not previously known.
> 
> I realize that because of the way this is set up some of the information may be things we already discussed in previous classes, but since that class was a year ago, I don't see that as an issue. Besides, seeing these process used in practical application will not only reinforce your knowledge, but it may also help you apply some of these techniques to your own projects and daily routines.
> 
> So let's get on with it! Class is once again in session! Of course I welcome and appreciate all comments and discussions about not only these techniques, but also those that have been successful for you. We learn a great deal from each other by sharing information and I by no means feel that I know everything! I always say that there are many paths to the same destination. So lets see how many different paths we can explore to expand our knowledge and skills here.
> 
> I hope you enjoy the video. Part 1 includes the introduction and set up of the pieces.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=nkyW-_4CPU4
> 
> I have embedded the video here, for those of you who don't like to click on things that leave the site, but if you want to go to YouTube and subscribe to my channel, you can do so here:
> 
> Scrollgirlcanada's Channel
> 
> Once there, you can see other videos that I have released and subscribe to my channel. When you subscribe, you receive an email notification every time I upload a new video. I plan on doing more videos on both scroll sawing and also finishing and different painting techniques, so if you are interested in those subjects, you may want to subscribe.
> 
> Thanks to Martin and Debbie for allowing me to post here in this forum. It is wonderful to be able to share ideas with you all and learn from you all too!
> 
> Enjoy!


Hi, Ken:
Yes, in Part 2 of this series I talk a bit about blades. I also have links to and Olson Blade Chart that you can download and and article that Keith wrote on blade selection that is available on the Free Stuff page of my site.

Scroll Saw Blade Selection

I hope these help answer your questions. If you still have any additional question, please don't hesitate to ask. Welcome!


----------



## scrollgirl

*"Reindeer Games" Layered Ornaments Part 2*

Ok! So I dropped the ball a little! I honestly forgot that I was posting these videos here in the class. I suppose that there was a bit too much going on, and then I took a short holiday and it completely slipped my mind.

I suppose I don't earn the prize as the smartest kitten in the litter, do I?










But hopefully, you will all let bygones be bygones and we can continue on from here in our little adventure.

Let's see . . . where were we?

We had our pattern applied to our ornaments and were about to stack cut them. Below is the video showing me cutting out the lettering and the inside cuts of the back plate. There are a couple of 'tricks' to doing this easily and I hope you find the video helpful:






I have embedded the video here, but if you go to YouTube, you can subscribe to my channel and then get notification when I add new videos.

In the video, I pretty much explain the process, but I welcome any questions you may have regarding it. Just post them here and I will be happy to answer them here on the forum so that others can benefit from them too.

Thanks again for your attention!

Sheila


----------



## Kentuk55

scrollgirl said:


> *"Reindeer Games" Layered Ornaments Part 2*
> 
> Ok! So I dropped the ball a little! I honestly forgot that I was posting these videos here in the class. I suppose that there was a bit too much going on, and then I took a short holiday and it completely slipped my mind.
> 
> I suppose I don't earn the prize as the smartest kitten in the litter, do I?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But hopefully, you will all let bygones be bygones and we can continue on from here in our little adventure.
> 
> Let's see . . . where were we?
> 
> We had our pattern applied to our ornaments and were about to stack cut them. Below is the video showing me cutting out the lettering and the inside cuts of the back plate. There are a couple of 'tricks' to doing this easily and I hope you find the video helpful:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have embedded the video here, but if you go to YouTube, you can subscribe to my channel and then get notification when I add new videos.
> 
> In the video, I pretty much explain the process, but I welcome any questions you may have regarding it. Just post them here and I will be happy to answer them here on the forum so that others can benefit from them too.
> 
> Thanks again for your attention!
> 
> Sheila


LOL, you are funny… Yer a "kool-kat", Sheila


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *"Reindeer Games" Layered Ornaments Part 2*
> 
> Ok! So I dropped the ball a little! I honestly forgot that I was posting these videos here in the class. I suppose that there was a bit too much going on, and then I took a short holiday and it completely slipped my mind.
> 
> I suppose I don't earn the prize as the smartest kitten in the litter, do I?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But hopefully, you will all let bygones be bygones and we can continue on from here in our little adventure.
> 
> Let's see . . . where were we?
> 
> We had our pattern applied to our ornaments and were about to stack cut them. Below is the video showing me cutting out the lettering and the inside cuts of the back plate. There are a couple of 'tricks' to doing this easily and I hope you find the video helpful:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have embedded the video here, but if you go to YouTube, you can subscribe to my channel and then get notification when I add new videos.
> 
> In the video, I pretty much explain the process, but I welcome any questions you may have regarding it. Just post them here and I will be happy to answer them here on the forum so that others can benefit from them too.
> 
> Thanks again for your attention!
> 
> Sheila


Thanks Roger!  Glad you enjoy!

Sheila


----------



## KenFitz

scrollgirl said:


> *"Reindeer Games" Layered Ornaments Part 2*
> 
> Ok! So I dropped the ball a little! I honestly forgot that I was posting these videos here in the class. I suppose that there was a bit too much going on, and then I took a short holiday and it completely slipped my mind.
> 
> I suppose I don't earn the prize as the smartest kitten in the litter, do I?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But hopefully, you will all let bygones be bygones and we can continue on from here in our little adventure.
> 
> Let's see . . . where were we?
> 
> We had our pattern applied to our ornaments and were about to stack cut them. Below is the video showing me cutting out the lettering and the inside cuts of the back plate. There are a couple of 'tricks' to doing this easily and I hope you find the video helpful:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have embedded the video here, but if you go to YouTube, you can subscribe to my channel and then get notification when I add new videos.
> 
> In the video, I pretty much explain the process, but I welcome any questions you may have regarding it. Just post them here and I will be happy to answer them here on the forum so that others can benefit from them too.
> 
> Thanks again for your attention!
> 
> Sheila


shouldn't that be "h" for ho ho ho! lol Great video.


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor

scrollgirl said:


> *"Reindeer Games" Layered Ornaments Part 2*
> 
> Ok! So I dropped the ball a little! I honestly forgot that I was posting these videos here in the class. I suppose that there was a bit too much going on, and then I took a short holiday and it completely slipped my mind.
> 
> I suppose I don't earn the prize as the smartest kitten in the litter, do I?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But hopefully, you will all let bygones be bygones and we can continue on from here in our little adventure.
> 
> Let's see . . . where were we?
> 
> We had our pattern applied to our ornaments and were about to stack cut them. Below is the video showing me cutting out the lettering and the inside cuts of the back plate. There are a couple of 'tricks' to doing this easily and I hope you find the video helpful:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have embedded the video here, but if you go to YouTube, you can subscribe to my channel and then get notification when I add new videos.
> 
> In the video, I pretty much explain the process, but I welcome any questions you may have regarding it. Just post them here and I will be happy to answer them here on the forum so that others can benefit from them too.
> 
> Thanks again for your attention!
> 
> Sheila


You make it look too easy ;-)


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *"Reindeer Games" Layered Ornaments Part 2*
> 
> Ok! So I dropped the ball a little! I honestly forgot that I was posting these videos here in the class. I suppose that there was a bit too much going on, and then I took a short holiday and it completely slipped my mind.
> 
> I suppose I don't earn the prize as the smartest kitten in the litter, do I?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But hopefully, you will all let bygones be bygones and we can continue on from here in our little adventure.
> 
> Let's see . . . where were we?
> 
> We had our pattern applied to our ornaments and were about to stack cut them. Below is the video showing me cutting out the lettering and the inside cuts of the back plate. There are a couple of 'tricks' to doing this easily and I hope you find the video helpful:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have embedded the video here, but if you go to YouTube, you can subscribe to my channel and then get notification when I add new videos.
> 
> In the video, I pretty much explain the process, but I welcome any questions you may have regarding it. Just post them here and I will be happy to answer them here on the forum so that others can benefit from them too.
> 
> Thanks again for your attention!
> 
> Sheila


Yes, Ken! I should be in the holiday spirit!  And Bob - it IS easy! Just one hole at a time. Not overwhelming yourself is the key. (and a little practice!)

Sheila


----------



## dust4tears

scrollgirl said:


> *"Reindeer Games" Layered Ornaments Part 2*
> 
> Ok! So I dropped the ball a little! I honestly forgot that I was posting these videos here in the class. I suppose that there was a bit too much going on, and then I took a short holiday and it completely slipped my mind.
> 
> I suppose I don't earn the prize as the smartest kitten in the litter, do I?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But hopefully, you will all let bygones be bygones and we can continue on from here in our little adventure.
> 
> Let's see . . . where were we?
> 
> We had our pattern applied to our ornaments and were about to stack cut them. Below is the video showing me cutting out the lettering and the inside cuts of the back plate. There are a couple of 'tricks' to doing this easily and I hope you find the video helpful:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have embedded the video here, but if you go to YouTube, you can subscribe to my channel and then get notification when I add new videos.
> 
> In the video, I pretty much explain the process, but I welcome any questions you may have regarding it. Just post them here and I will be happy to answer them here on the forum so that others can benefit from them too.
> 
> Thanks again for your attention!
> 
> Sheila


About what speed (on the saw…not your feed rate) do you use? I see it looks to be going quite fast.. When I try to do 'smaller' things and I need to do tight/precise turns….I always seem to end up ruining it~whatever it is~ because it cuts too fast and I overshoot what I am doing.

(I hope that makes sense)


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *"Reindeer Games" Layered Ornaments Part 2*
> 
> Ok! So I dropped the ball a little! I honestly forgot that I was posting these videos here in the class. I suppose that there was a bit too much going on, and then I took a short holiday and it completely slipped my mind.
> 
> I suppose I don't earn the prize as the smartest kitten in the litter, do I?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But hopefully, you will all let bygones be bygones and we can continue on from here in our little adventure.
> 
> Let's see . . . where were we?
> 
> We had our pattern applied to our ornaments and were about to stack cut them. Below is the video showing me cutting out the lettering and the inside cuts of the back plate. There are a couple of 'tricks' to doing this easily and I hope you find the video helpful:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have embedded the video here, but if you go to YouTube, you can subscribe to my channel and then get notification when I add new videos.
> 
> In the video, I pretty much explain the process, but I welcome any questions you may have regarding it. Just post them here and I will be happy to answer them here on the forum so that others can benefit from them too.
> 
> Thanks again for your attention!
> 
> Sheila


Well, Dust4tears - I use the saw at about 3/4 speed to full speed, depending what I am cutting. I don't know the spm because I don't usually fuss with that. I think that over cutting is more attributed to the rate of feed rather than the speed of the blade. On these little things, you have to have a really light hand. If you watch these videos, you will see that even though the saw is going quite fast, I am not pushing the wood through it hard at all. There are times when I even stop pushing altogether to explain things and even though the speed of the saw is fast, it doesn't do any damage.

I think that most of the time the damage comes when the saw has a greater amount of front to back motion. If you can think of a train wheel chugging forward, you can picture on a much larger scale what I am referring to. The forward movement of the blade doesn't allow you an absolute pivot point, and the wood tends to catch or jump a bit more. You should be able to (lightly) lean the piece of wood on the back of the blade and have little or no movement at all. When the blade has front to back movement, it is more aggressive because it is moving slightly forward into the wood instead of you pushing the wood into the blade. I do show that in the video series.

It is possible to do intricate cutting with a limited amount of front to back movement. You just need to use a small blade and a very light pressure. I know it can be frustrating if the wood grabs and chatters. But that is one of the reasons that I use a fast blade speed too. If the blade speed is too slow, it tend to 'grab' the wood instead of cutting through it. Speeding up your saw will help alleviate this. If you are running the saw at a fast speed and it is still grabbing, try a smaller blade. Larger blades have more surface and therefore there is more friction being generated and again, the wood will have a tendency to chatter.

I hope these thoughts are helpful to you. The main thing is to back off your forward pressure. I tend to slow down considerably at least about 1/2 to 1/4" before arriving at the turning point. You have to really concentrate on it at first, but soon it will come second nature, like when we drive a car. 

Let ma know how you do and thanks for asking!

Sheila


----------



## scrollgirl

*"Reindeer Games" Layered Ornaments Part 3*

The next step in cutting out the reindeer ornaments is cutting the reindeer itself, as well as the back board. It was important to cut the small detailed inside cuts first from the ornament, because it is at that point that the wood has the most support. While sometimes you may forget one or two inside cuts and can usually go back and cut them when you are finished (I believe I did this between the back legs of the deer in this video) it is best to try to cut all of the inside cuts first and then do the outer edge of the design.

Also in the video, I show a segment where in applying the hot glue to glue the two layers of wood together, the glue accidentally got on the design area itself. Since I use the extra strength hot glue, prying apart the pieces would have in all likelihood broken the delicate pieces. In order to rectify this situation and separate the pieces without doing them any damage, I simply put them in the microwave oven for ten seconds and I was easily able to separate the pieces.

The microwave heats up the glue, allowing it to let go much easier without additional pressure on the pieces. When doing this process, it is best to work quickly and using a small, sharp paring knife is quite helpful in prying the warmed pieces apart. Remember though to work quickly, and the glue re-sets very fast. If you feel that it is necessary to have additional warming time, I suggest you only try warming the pieces 10 seconds at a time. I find that one attempt is usually sufficient to loosen the pieces, although on the rare occasion additional time is needed. Use care when doing this process.

So without further hesitation, below is the video. As always, please comment here if you have questions so that others can benefit from them too. That also allows others here on Lumberjocks to answer and help out, as sometimes several perspectives are better than only one.






I hope you enjoy the video and learn something new from it too.

You can subscribe to my YouTube channel by following the link here:

http://www.youtube.com/user/scrollgirlcanada

By subscribing, you are notified by email when new videos are added. Thank you for watching.


----------



## Nicky

scrollgirl said:


> *"Reindeer Games" Layered Ornaments Part 3*
> 
> The next step in cutting out the reindeer ornaments is cutting the reindeer itself, as well as the back board. It was important to cut the small detailed inside cuts first from the ornament, because it is at that point that the wood has the most support. While sometimes you may forget one or two inside cuts and can usually go back and cut them when you are finished (I believe I did this between the back legs of the deer in this video) it is best to try to cut all of the inside cuts first and then do the outer edge of the design.
> 
> Also in the video, I show a segment where in applying the hot glue to glue the two layers of wood together, the glue accidentally got on the design area itself. Since I use the extra strength hot glue, prying apart the pieces would have in all likelihood broken the delicate pieces. In order to rectify this situation and separate the pieces without doing them any damage, I simply put them in the microwave oven for ten seconds and I was easily able to separate the pieces.
> 
> The microwave heats up the glue, allowing it to let go much easier without additional pressure on the pieces. When doing this process, it is best to work quickly and using a small, sharp paring knife is quite helpful in prying the warmed pieces apart. Remember though to work quickly, and the glue re-sets very fast. If you feel that it is necessary to have additional warming time, I suggest you only try warming the pieces 10 seconds at a time. I find that one attempt is usually sufficient to loosen the pieces, although on the rare occasion additional time is needed. Use care when doing this process.
> 
> So without further hesitation, below is the video. As always, please comment here if you have questions so that others can benefit from them too. That also allows others here on Lumberjocks to answer and help out, as sometimes several perspectives are better than only one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you enjoy the video and learn something new from it too.
> 
> You can subscribe to my YouTube channel by following the link here:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/user/scrollgirlcanada
> 
> By subscribing, you are notified by email when new videos are added. Thank you for watching.


You did a great job. I have enjoyed the vids and have learned a lot. Maybe now it's time to dust off the scrollsaw and give this a try.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *"Reindeer Games" Layered Ornaments Part 3*
> 
> The next step in cutting out the reindeer ornaments is cutting the reindeer itself, as well as the back board. It was important to cut the small detailed inside cuts first from the ornament, because it is at that point that the wood has the most support. While sometimes you may forget one or two inside cuts and can usually go back and cut them when you are finished (I believe I did this between the back legs of the deer in this video) it is best to try to cut all of the inside cuts first and then do the outer edge of the design.
> 
> Also in the video, I show a segment where in applying the hot glue to glue the two layers of wood together, the glue accidentally got on the design area itself. Since I use the extra strength hot glue, prying apart the pieces would have in all likelihood broken the delicate pieces. In order to rectify this situation and separate the pieces without doing them any damage, I simply put them in the microwave oven for ten seconds and I was easily able to separate the pieces.
> 
> The microwave heats up the glue, allowing it to let go much easier without additional pressure on the pieces. When doing this process, it is best to work quickly and using a small, sharp paring knife is quite helpful in prying the warmed pieces apart. Remember though to work quickly, and the glue re-sets very fast. If you feel that it is necessary to have additional warming time, I suggest you only try warming the pieces 10 seconds at a time. I find that one attempt is usually sufficient to loosen the pieces, although on the rare occasion additional time is needed. Use care when doing this process.
> 
> So without further hesitation, below is the video. As always, please comment here if you have questions so that others can benefit from them too. That also allows others here on Lumberjocks to answer and help out, as sometimes several perspectives are better than only one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you enjoy the video and learn something new from it too.
> 
> You can subscribe to my YouTube channel by following the link here:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/user/scrollgirlcanada
> 
> By subscribing, you are notified by email when new videos are added. Thank you for watching.


I would love to hear how you do, Nicky! If you have any questions, just ask! 

Sheila


----------



## Nicky

scrollgirl said:


> *"Reindeer Games" Layered Ornaments Part 3*
> 
> The next step in cutting out the reindeer ornaments is cutting the reindeer itself, as well as the back board. It was important to cut the small detailed inside cuts first from the ornament, because it is at that point that the wood has the most support. While sometimes you may forget one or two inside cuts and can usually go back and cut them when you are finished (I believe I did this between the back legs of the deer in this video) it is best to try to cut all of the inside cuts first and then do the outer edge of the design.
> 
> Also in the video, I show a segment where in applying the hot glue to glue the two layers of wood together, the glue accidentally got on the design area itself. Since I use the extra strength hot glue, prying apart the pieces would have in all likelihood broken the delicate pieces. In order to rectify this situation and separate the pieces without doing them any damage, I simply put them in the microwave oven for ten seconds and I was easily able to separate the pieces.
> 
> The microwave heats up the glue, allowing it to let go much easier without additional pressure on the pieces. When doing this process, it is best to work quickly and using a small, sharp paring knife is quite helpful in prying the warmed pieces apart. Remember though to work quickly, and the glue re-sets very fast. If you feel that it is necessary to have additional warming time, I suggest you only try warming the pieces 10 seconds at a time. I find that one attempt is usually sufficient to loosen the pieces, although on the rare occasion additional time is needed. Use care when doing this process.
> 
> So without further hesitation, below is the video. As always, please comment here if you have questions so that others can benefit from them too. That also allows others here on Lumberjocks to answer and help out, as sometimes several perspectives are better than only one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you enjoy the video and learn something new from it too.
> 
> You can subscribe to my YouTube channel by following the link here:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/user/scrollgirlcanada
> 
> By subscribing, you are notified by email when new videos are added. Thank you for watching.


I've followed along your blogs and appriciate a masters offer of help.

My first problem eyesight. I see better (upclose) without glasses then with my glasses, but still not good enough to obtain the accuracy required. I thought about a visor with a magnafing lense. Any recommendation for the vision challenged? I'm not looking for medical advise, just curoius if you had a practical solution that you would like to share.

thanks


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *"Reindeer Games" Layered Ornaments Part 3*
> 
> The next step in cutting out the reindeer ornaments is cutting the reindeer itself, as well as the back board. It was important to cut the small detailed inside cuts first from the ornament, because it is at that point that the wood has the most support. While sometimes you may forget one or two inside cuts and can usually go back and cut them when you are finished (I believe I did this between the back legs of the deer in this video) it is best to try to cut all of the inside cuts first and then do the outer edge of the design.
> 
> Also in the video, I show a segment where in applying the hot glue to glue the two layers of wood together, the glue accidentally got on the design area itself. Since I use the extra strength hot glue, prying apart the pieces would have in all likelihood broken the delicate pieces. In order to rectify this situation and separate the pieces without doing them any damage, I simply put them in the microwave oven for ten seconds and I was easily able to separate the pieces.
> 
> The microwave heats up the glue, allowing it to let go much easier without additional pressure on the pieces. When doing this process, it is best to work quickly and using a small, sharp paring knife is quite helpful in prying the warmed pieces apart. Remember though to work quickly, and the glue re-sets very fast. If you feel that it is necessary to have additional warming time, I suggest you only try warming the pieces 10 seconds at a time. I find that one attempt is usually sufficient to loosen the pieces, although on the rare occasion additional time is needed. Use care when doing this process.
> 
> So without further hesitation, below is the video. As always, please comment here if you have questions so that others can benefit from them too. That also allows others here on Lumberjocks to answer and help out, as sometimes several perspectives are better than only one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you enjoy the video and learn something new from it too.
> 
> You can subscribe to my YouTube channel by following the link here:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/user/scrollgirlcanada
> 
> By subscribing, you are notified by email when new videos are added. Thank you for watching.


Hi, Nicky:
I was like you a couple of years ago. It seemed like I couldn't pinpoint my sight on the details. This occurred both in my painting and my scroll sawing and was quite troublesome. When I went to my eye doctor, she told me that as we approach a 'certain age;' this often happens with our eyes. I tried a couple of different pairs of bi-focal contact lenses (as I wear contacts) and they were helpful, but still not great. She then suggested that I try some of the dollar store "readers" glasses. I took her advice and I am amazed at the difference. I thought my career as a scroller and painter was over, but it helps quite a bit. Now I have several pairs of readers that I keep all over the house for reading, scrolling, painting and any other close work that I may have to do. To me, it was worth the risk of a dollar to give it a try. My eye doc said that the cheap readers are as good as the expensive ones you get at the drug store. It sure helps me a lot and it is something you may want to consider. I hope it helps you as it did me. Please let me know how you make out. I am happy you like the class. 

Take care, Sheila


----------



## woodknots

scrollgirl said:


> *"Reindeer Games" Layered Ornaments Part 3*
> 
> The next step in cutting out the reindeer ornaments is cutting the reindeer itself, as well as the back board. It was important to cut the small detailed inside cuts first from the ornament, because it is at that point that the wood has the most support. While sometimes you may forget one or two inside cuts and can usually go back and cut them when you are finished (I believe I did this between the back legs of the deer in this video) it is best to try to cut all of the inside cuts first and then do the outer edge of the design.
> 
> Also in the video, I show a segment where in applying the hot glue to glue the two layers of wood together, the glue accidentally got on the design area itself. Since I use the extra strength hot glue, prying apart the pieces would have in all likelihood broken the delicate pieces. In order to rectify this situation and separate the pieces without doing them any damage, I simply put them in the microwave oven for ten seconds and I was easily able to separate the pieces.
> 
> The microwave heats up the glue, allowing it to let go much easier without additional pressure on the pieces. When doing this process, it is best to work quickly and using a small, sharp paring knife is quite helpful in prying the warmed pieces apart. Remember though to work quickly, and the glue re-sets very fast. If you feel that it is necessary to have additional warming time, I suggest you only try warming the pieces 10 seconds at a time. I find that one attempt is usually sufficient to loosen the pieces, although on the rare occasion additional time is needed. Use care when doing this process.
> 
> So without further hesitation, below is the video. As always, please comment here if you have questions so that others can benefit from them too. That also allows others here on Lumberjocks to answer and help out, as sometimes several perspectives are better than only one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you enjoy the video and learn something new from it too.
> 
> You can subscribe to my YouTube channel by following the link here:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/user/scrollgirlcanada
> 
> By subscribing, you are notified by email when new videos are added. Thank you for watching.


I realy like that you do these classes I've picked up a few pointers. Sheila have you tried putting glue on the edges of your wood .that seems to work for me then it wont interfere with the pieces your cutting out .


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *"Reindeer Games" Layered Ornaments Part 3*
> 
> The next step in cutting out the reindeer ornaments is cutting the reindeer itself, as well as the back board. It was important to cut the small detailed inside cuts first from the ornament, because it is at that point that the wood has the most support. While sometimes you may forget one or two inside cuts and can usually go back and cut them when you are finished (I believe I did this between the back legs of the deer in this video) it is best to try to cut all of the inside cuts first and then do the outer edge of the design.
> 
> Also in the video, I show a segment where in applying the hot glue to glue the two layers of wood together, the glue accidentally got on the design area itself. Since I use the extra strength hot glue, prying apart the pieces would have in all likelihood broken the delicate pieces. In order to rectify this situation and separate the pieces without doing them any damage, I simply put them in the microwave oven for ten seconds and I was easily able to separate the pieces.
> 
> The microwave heats up the glue, allowing it to let go much easier without additional pressure on the pieces. When doing this process, it is best to work quickly and using a small, sharp paring knife is quite helpful in prying the warmed pieces apart. Remember though to work quickly, and the glue re-sets very fast. If you feel that it is necessary to have additional warming time, I suggest you only try warming the pieces 10 seconds at a time. I find that one attempt is usually sufficient to loosen the pieces, although on the rare occasion additional time is needed. Use care when doing this process.
> 
> So without further hesitation, below is the video. As always, please comment here if you have questions so that others can benefit from them too. That also allows others here on Lumberjocks to answer and help out, as sometimes several perspectives are better than only one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you enjoy the video and learn something new from it too.
> 
> You can subscribe to my YouTube channel by following the link here:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/user/scrollgirlcanada
> 
> By subscribing, you are notified by email when new videos are added. Thank you for watching.


Yes, Jeff. Since I did the class, I have learned that I like hot gluing the wood together for stack cutting. It holds well and is fast and clean. The main thing that I discovered is to try really hard not to get the glue on the area that your piece is in. Keep it to the waste area. If it does stick, I found that putting the piece in the microwave for 10 second shots will loosen the hot glue so you can separate the pieces and remove it easier. Live and learn. 

I am glad you like the class though. I learned from comments from others too!

Sheila


----------



## nitewalker41

scrollgirl said:


> *"Reindeer Games" Layered Ornaments Part 3*
> 
> The next step in cutting out the reindeer ornaments is cutting the reindeer itself, as well as the back board. It was important to cut the small detailed inside cuts first from the ornament, because it is at that point that the wood has the most support. While sometimes you may forget one or two inside cuts and can usually go back and cut them when you are finished (I believe I did this between the back legs of the deer in this video) it is best to try to cut all of the inside cuts first and then do the outer edge of the design.
> 
> Also in the video, I show a segment where in applying the hot glue to glue the two layers of wood together, the glue accidentally got on the design area itself. Since I use the extra strength hot glue, prying apart the pieces would have in all likelihood broken the delicate pieces. In order to rectify this situation and separate the pieces without doing them any damage, I simply put them in the microwave oven for ten seconds and I was easily able to separate the pieces.
> 
> The microwave heats up the glue, allowing it to let go much easier without additional pressure on the pieces. When doing this process, it is best to work quickly and using a small, sharp paring knife is quite helpful in prying the warmed pieces apart. Remember though to work quickly, and the glue re-sets very fast. If you feel that it is necessary to have additional warming time, I suggest you only try warming the pieces 10 seconds at a time. I find that one attempt is usually sufficient to loosen the pieces, although on the rare occasion additional time is needed. Use care when doing this process.
> 
> So without further hesitation, below is the video. As always, please comment here if you have questions so that others can benefit from them too. That also allows others here on Lumberjocks to answer and help out, as sometimes several perspectives are better than only one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you enjoy the video and learn something new from it too.
> 
> You can subscribe to my YouTube channel by following the link here:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/user/scrollgirlcanada
> 
> By subscribing, you are notified by email when new videos are added. Thank you for watching.


Sheila….just want to say thanks for the info and video's, I have been practicing from what you have posted and plan to continue….btw love the reindeer games…..did you ever do # 4 on the finishing? Thanks again for the info, it has been of much help and benefit to me. For sure will be checking out your pattern site soon…...JSM


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *"Reindeer Games" Layered Ornaments Part 3*
> 
> The next step in cutting out the reindeer ornaments is cutting the reindeer itself, as well as the back board. It was important to cut the small detailed inside cuts first from the ornament, because it is at that point that the wood has the most support. While sometimes you may forget one or two inside cuts and can usually go back and cut them when you are finished (I believe I did this between the back legs of the deer in this video) it is best to try to cut all of the inside cuts first and then do the outer edge of the design.
> 
> Also in the video, I show a segment where in applying the hot glue to glue the two layers of wood together, the glue accidentally got on the design area itself. Since I use the extra strength hot glue, prying apart the pieces would have in all likelihood broken the delicate pieces. In order to rectify this situation and separate the pieces without doing them any damage, I simply put them in the microwave oven for ten seconds and I was easily able to separate the pieces.
> 
> The microwave heats up the glue, allowing it to let go much easier without additional pressure on the pieces. When doing this process, it is best to work quickly and using a small, sharp paring knife is quite helpful in prying the warmed pieces apart. Remember though to work quickly, and the glue re-sets very fast. If you feel that it is necessary to have additional warming time, I suggest you only try warming the pieces 10 seconds at a time. I find that one attempt is usually sufficient to loosen the pieces, although on the rare occasion additional time is needed. Use care when doing this process.
> 
> So without further hesitation, below is the video. As always, please comment here if you have questions so that others can benefit from them too. That also allows others here on Lumberjocks to answer and help out, as sometimes several perspectives are better than only one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you enjoy the video and learn something new from it too.
> 
> You can subscribe to my YouTube channel by following the link here:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/user/scrollgirlcanada
> 
> By subscribing, you are notified by email when new videos are added. Thank you for watching.


Thank you for the kind words. Here is the link to part 4.






It shows how to sand delicate pieces and apply the mineral oil finish.


----------



## scrollgirl

scrollgirl said:


> *"Reindeer Games" Layered Ornaments Part 3*
> 
> The next step in cutting out the reindeer ornaments is cutting the reindeer itself, as well as the back board. It was important to cut the small detailed inside cuts first from the ornament, because it is at that point that the wood has the most support. While sometimes you may forget one or two inside cuts and can usually go back and cut them when you are finished (I believe I did this between the back legs of the deer in this video) it is best to try to cut all of the inside cuts first and then do the outer edge of the design.
> 
> Also in the video, I show a segment where in applying the hot glue to glue the two layers of wood together, the glue accidentally got on the design area itself. Since I use the extra strength hot glue, prying apart the pieces would have in all likelihood broken the delicate pieces. In order to rectify this situation and separate the pieces without doing them any damage, I simply put them in the microwave oven for ten seconds and I was easily able to separate the pieces.
> 
> The microwave heats up the glue, allowing it to let go much easier without additional pressure on the pieces. When doing this process, it is best to work quickly and using a small, sharp paring knife is quite helpful in prying the warmed pieces apart. Remember though to work quickly, and the glue re-sets very fast. If you feel that it is necessary to have additional warming time, I suggest you only try warming the pieces 10 seconds at a time. I find that one attempt is usually sufficient to loosen the pieces, although on the rare occasion additional time is needed. Use care when doing this process.
> 
> So without further hesitation, below is the video. As always, please comment here if you have questions so that others can benefit from them too. That also allows others here on Lumberjocks to answer and help out, as sometimes several perspectives are better than only one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you enjoy the video and learn something new from it too.
> 
> You can subscribe to my YouTube channel by following the link here:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/user/scrollgirlcanada
> 
> By subscribing, you are notified by email when new videos are added. Thank you for watching.


And there is a Part 5 also on the staining and gluing process that I used:






Perhaps I chose not to add these parts as classes here because it isn't really part of the cutting process, but now I am wondering why I didn't do so. Thanks for bringing that to my attention. If you would like to see more of my videos, you can go to my channel on YouTube and do so. The address is here:

http://www.youtube.com/user/scrollgirlcanada?feature=watch

Thanks again, and if you have any questions, just ask! 

Sheila


----------



## Susan G

scrollgirl said:


> *Introduction - Sign Up and Objective*
> 
> Hi, Everybody!
> 
> My name is Sheila Landry, although many of you may know me as 'Scrollgirl'. I've had that nickname for over fifteen years now and chose it because I LOVE SCROLL SAWING!
> 
> I work as a contributing editor for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine and I also have my own pattern business called Sheila Landry Designs where I sell my original scroll saw and painting patterns.
> 
> I was asked by MsDebbie if I would like to host an online scroll saw class here on Lumberjocks and I gave her a resounding YES as an answer! So here we are!
> 
> During my first year here on Lumberjocks, I realized that many of you have sad and lonely scroll saws sitting in a dark, deep corner of your shop or basement, covered with dust and rotting. Others have fresh and new scroll saws, shiny out of the box, and you want to be able to use these saws to create beautiful and magical woodworking projects, but don't really know where to start. And there are still more of you who already make wonderful projects, and may just want to come along for the ride to help contribute to the class and perhaps learn something new in the process.
> 
> Everyone is welcome!
> 
> View attachment 2963518
> 
> 
> In conducting this class, I want you all to know that no matter what your skill, I am looking forward to having you here. I am going to pace the class slowly so that it is geared for the absolute beginner (After all - we aren't going anywhere, are we?) and if it moves a bit too slow for some people, that will be a good time for those people to chime in and also help out with their own experiences and advice.
> 
> Scroll sawing - as with many things - is not an exact science. There are many roads to the destination. While one thing may work well for one person, other things may work well for others. There are several "right" ways to do things and as long as they are safe, than I will encourage you to use the method that you are most comfortable with.
> 
> As far as safety goes, you need to use your normal safety practices that you do in your shop when using the scroll saw. Use your own judgment and follow your manufacturer's instructions on the equipment and supplies. I cannot accept responsibility for accidents resulting from how you use the information provided here. I merely want to show you which techniques work for me.
> 
> With that said, I hope this class proves to be both fun and educational to you all. There are many different applications in which you can use your scroll saw in creating other, larger projects. Or you can use it on its own to make projects ranging to basic and simple to very intricate and elaborate. There really is no limit, which is why I find working with the scroll saw so exciting. It is a very versatile tool that requires a small amount of space (I scroll saw on the side of my kitchen!) and makes very little mess, unlike larger saws or other tools. It is a great way to do a little creative woodworking even if you have a very limited area to work in and budget.
> 
> In creating the projects for the class, I have decided that since there are many different techniques and aspects to scroll sawing, the best way to show you these is by us creating several smaller projects. I will be sharing with you many different small ornament patterns that I have designed, and each which will focus on a particular technique. This will allow us to work on different thicknesses of wood using different sizes and types of blades. It will also be less costly to you than investing in one large project or lots of materials. You will be able to use scraps from around your shop to practice on and keep you cost minimal. You can also practice by making the items several times if necessary, to really understand what you are learning to do.
> 
> I will give a general supply list on the next post. But for now, I would like to as you to 'sign up' so I have an idea of how many people are going to follow along. Please acknowledge your participation either in the comment section here, or via a personal message to me. I ask that you give me your name (first name is fine, but both names is OK too), email, experience you have on the scroll saw, and if you wish, a couple of lines as to your goals for the class or what you want to see here. It will help me make a better class for you and address your needs better.
> 
> I will be mainly teaching through this blog, but I will also have some videos from time to time to illustrate different cutting techniques and other issues that come up. I will do as many videos as possible, but I don't want to limit those who are on dial-up connections and don't have access to internet videos, as some have brought to my attention. Even if I do a illustrate an idea using a video, I will still have photographs presented here to try to show the same thing on the blog, so everyone can follow.
> 
> So that is it for now. I will do my best to make this a fun and educational experience for all of us. I hope that you will join us!


Is this on line class still going? I have a new scroll saw and want to learn how to use it properly. Thanks!


----------



## sras

Susan G said:


> Is this on line class still going? I have a new scroll saw and want to learn how to use it properly. Thanks!


You might want to check out her website






Welcome To Sheila Landry Designs Scroll Saw & Laser Patterns! - Sheila Landry Designs


Scroll saw and laser engraver patterns available in PDF, SVG or mailed paper format. We have hundreds of patterns with detailed instructions.




sheilalandrydesigns.com





She is not very active on LJs any more


----------



## John Smith_inFL

Susan - welcome to the forum. What kind of saw do you have and what projects are you interested in ?
I had a scroller years ago (an old Craftsman) but just recently got a used DW-788 and get most of my information from watching the YouTube videos.
We're looking forward to seeing some of your projects.


----------



## Davevand

Also check out Steve Good, join his mail list. He sends out a free pattern almost every day. I have made a bunch of his designs








Scrollsaw Workshop


Welcome to the Scrollsaw Workshop. You will find FREE scroll saw patterns, video demonstrations, scroll saw links, reviews, and much more. Sign up for the email newsletter so you won’t miss a single post. Thank you and remember to set a bookmark.




scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com


----------

