# The most accurate square I have.



## Carloz

I kept buying all kind of square tools from big box stores, Sears and so on, like combination square, speed square etc etc. None of them was actually square and would deviate a millimeter or so at the end.
The one that I hope finally stopped my buying streak is this one. I tested it with a feeler gauge and could not insert the smallest blade at any of the ends both at 90 and 45 degrees. It saved me some money by not letting me buy some super expensive stuff and paid for itself on the first use, when trying to make mitered panel doors where exact 45 cut is crucial.


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## LittleShaver

Another good buy from HF.
I also use drafting squares and have found them very reliable.
After watching a Woodwright Shop, I started making my own. Fun project to use up some scraps and they make neat gifts. 
With the exception of dial indicators, Wixie gauges and feeler gauges, I've found that I can make most of my marking and layout tools.
For most of my projects, I prefer a story stick rather than a scale or tape.


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## Andybb

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## Gene01

> .
> 
> - Andybb


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## Holt

I usually buy those plastic drafting triangles, they always seem to be dead on. I use them to validate and correct the squares with which I work.


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## John_

I have a Woodpecker 26" x 16" precision framing square that cost around $200 and I have a $25 Irwin Framing square that is just as accurate

http://www.acmetools.com/shop/tools/irwin-1794447

The easiest way to check is to just draw a line, flip it over and draw another line. You can 'tweak' a framing square if it is out of square, no reason to buy another one:


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## RonAylor1760

Now take you new square and tune up the rest!


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## MrRon

> I kept buying all kind of square tools from big box stores, Sears and so on, like combination square, speed square etc etc. None of them was actually square and would deviate a millimeter or so at the end.
> The one that I hope finally stopped my buying streak is this one. I tested it with a feeler gauge and could not insert the smallest blade at any of the ends both at 90 and 45 degrees. It saved me some money by not letting me buy some super expensive stuff and paid for itself on the first use, when trying to make mitered panel doors where exact 45 cut is crucial.
> 
> - Carloz


How could you tell if the square was 90° or 45° with a feeler gauge? All the feeler gauge would tell you would be if the edge was straight or not. To check for a 90°, you have to check it against something that is in fact 90°, like a precision combination square; the same for 45°.


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## cabmaker

sorry….. no plastic squares on my job


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## JBrant

When I did my apprenticeship, my cabinetmaker had a try square with holes drilled down the blade. What a timesaver that was. I was looking for a commercial version so I wouldn't have to drill all of those holes. Woodpeckers 641SS is out of production. I ordered the Woodraphic version, but they messed up in Korea and sent something else. Quality tools, worst customer service I've ever encountered. Not recommended!

So anyway I decided to make my own multisquare. Works famously, is much more versatile. The Kinex reference square keeps me square and is handy by itself.


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## LesB

I understand you frustration. After years of fussing around I finally spent the bucks and bought a Starrett combination square and a small set of machinist squares. Problem solved. I'm impressed at how accurate the Starrett combination square is because other inexpensive combination squares I have used in the past were never accurate.


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## fritzer1210

Believe it or not I ordered a 12" try square manufactured with the "Crown Tools" label from Wally World. It was dead on square. Dumb luck you say?


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## BlasterStumps

JBrant, Would the purpose of the holes in the metal rule be so that you can see a line under it?


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## JBrant

It's a fast way to lay out accurate lines or marks, and parallel lines are a snap. Especially lines parallel to an edge. Because it uses a protractor head, combined with the reference square, I never have to worry about it being out of square and multiple angles are a cinch. In other words stick a pencil or scribe into a hole and away you go. And, works great as a try-square. Cheap solution for me, I had all of the parts just bought a couple of fresh drill bits (5/64th & 7/64th). Started with a center set and used a larger bit to take the burrs off the hole edges.


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## rad457

> Believe it or not I ordered a 12" try square manufactured with the "Crown Tools" label from Wally World. It was dead on square. Dumb luck you say?
> 
> - fritzer1210


Do have a starrett that is my reference and never regretted it, do have a empire that I have form rough reference, very accurate when new but as time passes have lost all faith in it.
Usually do quick checks with a 2 1/2" Lufkin that I got on Ebay, with all 3 blades in factory box for $20.00 best buy ever!


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## GR8HUNTER

*THIS IS HOW TO FIX IT* :<)))))


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