# threading end grain



## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

I want to make a double screw vice for the end of my work bench. My bench top is laminated 2×4s. Can I tap the end of the 2×4s for 3/4 or 1" threaded rod. Being end grain I am not sure


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## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

IMO no

Bore one horizontal hole for each threaded rod 5" deep.
Make two vertical holes (from above or from below) 4.5" away from the edge meeting with the holes and slide a metal bed nut in each one;
Screw the rods into the nuts. You might have to put a nut (in a counterbore) to lock the rods.

*The 4.5" away from the edge is to resist shearing along the long grain.*

example of bed bolt nut:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Barrel-Cross-Slotted-Centre-Furniture/dp/B071Y3VR77

If you can not find those round bed bolt nuts for your rods, try to find square nuts; then you make mortises instead of round hole to slide the nuts in. The square nut must not be able to turn in the mortise.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

Yes it should work ok. The biggest issue is going to be getting both rods perfectly parallel.

IMO you will be better off purchasing a vise.


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## tvrgeek (Nov 19, 2013)

Being softwood is as much a hindrance as anything. Are you planning on having the rods move in and out of the bench, or are they fixed. If fixed, then a lot of reinforcements work from inserts to running a dowel in cross-grain. But if yo are going to tap the endgrain and have the threads move in the bench, then threaded rod does not have near deep enough threads to use in softwood. I would consider another design. Leg vise, buy a good end-vise kit, but an Iron vise etc.


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

I think that the biggest problem is that standard threaded rod has too fine of a thread for a durable thread in wood, especially in softwood. Not saying it won't work but it may not work as well as a tap and thread box with a pitch and TPI designed for wood. A better option for the threaded rod might be to cut a mortise a few inches back from the edge into which you can insert and epoxy a nut and washer in place or at least make it so it cannot fall out if you remove the screw.

You might also look at some of the DIY vises that use bar clamps. There are probably several posted on Lumberjocks. Another option is to make a Moxon vice you can clamp to the top of your bench. Several ways to skin a cat (with apologies to cat lovers).


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

the threaded rod once screwed into the bench will not come out, they will be epoxied in. i will put a good layer of epoxy on the threads screw it in as tight as I can and let it dry. The other plan is it put one on the side. How can I make a vise with a bar clamp, the clamp will be well below the center of the jaw. The major clamp action will be on the bottom of the jaw where it will not do much good. All of the videos I have seen of this type of vise are on thin top tables. Remember my 3" table top rests on the edge of a 2×4


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## johnstoneb (Jun 14, 2012)

If you are going to glue them in you might get away with it. Another idea would be to drill a smooth hole epoxy the rod in then pin it from the side in a couple of places.


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

If you are going to permanently epoxy it in, it will work fine. No need to pre-tap it really. Just drill a pilot hole and drive it in part of the way, just to make sure it will cut its way in, and back it out. put some epoxy in the hole and a little on the rod and drive it in until it bottoms out. If you want a little extra holding power so the vise doesn't pull it out, you can drill a hole through it from the bottom and drive and epoxy a pin into it. I would drill that hole before you drive the rod in and once the rod is in, drill through the rod.


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## JohnDon (Mar 14, 2015)

I read someplace that using CA to coat threads tapped in weak wood will strengthen them. It works great for for me with small taps (leveling set screws in MDF table saw throat plates). Not sure how well it would work with big threads, but might be worth a try.


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

ok thanks


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## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

Lee Valley sells a pipe vise

with a pipe vise, the travel is only limited by the available length of the pipe .

So you can make the movable jaw as thick as you want without loosing clamping capacity.
This means the thick jaw will not flex even with a thick bench-top.

As other have said, standard threaded rods have a much too fine pitch. It would be frustrating.
You will notice, the pipe vise is semi quick release/setting as you can unlock the pipe.


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

ok I'll keep that in mind


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

what size drill should I use to tap for a 3/4'' threaded rod into end grain thanks Mike


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## GrantA (Jul 19, 2014)

Mike you should really rethink your threaded rod choice. Acme rod (and corresponding nuts etc for the other end) are easily available, just not at the local box store. You get a nice big coarse thread for better purchase in the wood AND a nice big coarse thread so you're not turning a handle 100 times to move it 3 inches


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

Look at a dumbbell for a cheap source of acme type threads and can cut it to get 2 for the price of one. It will even come with a nut. I've seen several DIY vises done with these.


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## MPython (Nov 30, 2018)

This might give you some ideas:

https://ibuildit.ca/projects/wooden-vise/


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

I know threaded 3/4 rod will be better than what I have cheap pony that I inherited. the screw is about a half inch. i am not a production worker so slow I can live with. My other alternative is 2 lag bolts and a board. I used my vise money to buy a Stanley #5. heres a picture of what I have for comparison thanks Mike


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

Have you though about cannibalizing the screw from that vise for your shop made one. Usually, it is not the screw that is cheap on the low end vises. It is usually the holes that the guides slide through that wallow out and become sloppy. The hardest part is making of finding a compatible nut but if the threads the cast iron are okay, you may be able to hack saw (or use an angle grinder) a usable nut out of it.


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

I never thought of that thanks, I measured the vise screw and it measures a tad under 5/8ths and it would work but I need 2. I think an inificiant vice with 3/4 threaded rod will be much better than what I have now


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## GrantA (Jul 19, 2014)

Mike look at my projects and open the moxon vise. If you'd like I'll drop a couple wood screws and some nuts in the mail for ya


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

what kind of wood screws


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## WoodenDreams (Aug 23, 2018)

I'm sure you've checked different styles of vises

https://www.woodmagazine.com/clamps-clamping/turn-a-bar-clamp-into-a-vise.

or the second face clamp in this https://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/3-classic-vises-made-with-pipe-clamps-2/ with this one you could use F-clamps instead of pipe clamps


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

yes I have, a moxon vise will do what I want and is inexpensive. I can't have any vise that is made for a thin top, my top is 3 inches thick


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## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

In the 2d link provided by WoodenDreams, it seems the author has find a way to unlock the two clutch plates of his Moxon vise with a handle without using the Lee Valley "pipe vise" which are a bit pricey.
Serious economy.


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

> what kind of wood screws
> 
> - Karda


I think he is talking about a wood dowel with threads cut into it like they used to use on old work bench vises.


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

oh ok that is the ultimate but they are to pricy for me that I why I never considered them. i found a piece of maple thenright size for a small chop 3×15


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