# 45 degree bevel cuts - long panels



## kyngfish (Feb 26, 2018)

I am doing a piece where pretty much every visible edge is beveled 45 degrees. For the parts that are coming in contact with people and are open to the air I’m going to use a router because I want to leave a slight flat face on the edges because if it came to a perfect edge I’m sure it will look like hell in 6 months.

But for the glue-ups for the panels - I’m conflicted. Do you all just run those through your table saw at 45 degrees or take another approach? I’m envisioning having to make up a sled to run the width of those panels through at 45 degrees. Another option was using a router and 45 degree bit - I think more precise on a router table which is pretty much the one thing I don’t have.

I’m having nightmares of tiny issues with fit trying to glue up a long bevel like that. I did it one time with a kitchen island and I promised never again.

Looking for some best practices from some experts here to avoid having to fix mistakes later.


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## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

Pretty much all bevels I do like that are either done on the router table or with a hand-held router and pilot bearing bit (I double-side tape a guide board along the edge for the bearing to reference)

Table saw does ok, but I hate sanding out blade marks and/or burns.


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## bilyo (May 20, 2015)

I know you don't want to hear this. Don't do it. Even with a small flat on the corner, over all, it is going to be a delicate edge subject to easy damage over time. If you must do it, do it with a lesser angle, maybe 30 deg; similar effect, but easier (a little) to do. If I were do this, I think I would consider applying the angle as an edge molding; not quite as elegant, but easier and repairable if damaged.
Again, if it must be done, I think the best way is to make a rough cut on the table saw leaving a small amount beyond the line and then use the router to trim to final dimension.


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## builtinbkyn (Oct 29, 2015)

OP what material do you plan on using for the carcass? I made a wall hung console with mitered joinery. This is the project page and a link to a blog for it as well. My first suggestion is use a glue with a long open time lol


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## kyngfish (Feb 26, 2018)

bilyo said:


> I know you don't want to hear this. Don't do it. Even with a small flat on the corner, over all, it is going to be a delicate edge subject to easy damage over time. If you must do it, do it with a lesser angle, maybe 30 deg; similar effect, but easier (a little) to do. If I were do this, I think I would consider applying the angle as an edge molding; not quite as elegant, but easier and repairable if damaged.
> Again, if it must be done, I think the best way is to make a rough cut on the table saw leaving a small amount beyond the line and then use the router to trim to final dimension.


Yeahhhh misunfortunately this is a commission piece and it’s what the client wants. Tried to talk them out of it but money is good. I’ll try one more time.

but the part I’m asking about here isn’t the outward facing bevel. It’s the bevel along the glue joint.


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## LesB (Dec 21, 2008)

You did not indicate if this is solid wood or veneered ply wood. For solid wood, if you are going to end up using a router I would suggest you consider a locking bevel (bit) for both alignment and also strength and more glue surface. They don't have guide bearings on them so you will need to rig up a guide fence if you don't have a router table. Practice with it and possibly set it up so you need two passes to complete the cut.

A table saw will work just fine ( it is how I would do it) but I suggest you use adequate hold downs to keep the work tight to the table. If every thing is set up correctly there should not be any "sanding"of the cut edge needed.


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## kyngfish (Feb 26, 2018)

LesB said:


> You did not indicate if this is solid wood or veneered ply wood. For solid wood, if you are going to end up using a router I would suggest you consider a locking bevel (bit) for both alignment and also strength and more glue surface. They don't have guide bearings on them so you will need to rig up a guide fence if you don't have a router table. Practice with it and possibly set it up so you need two passes to complete the cut.
> 
> A table saw will work too but I suggest you use adequate hold downs to keep the work tight to the table.


Solid walnut. I’ll look into the bit -and great idea but holy crap those are expensive. I have a festool tracksaw and I think I can attach my router so let’s see.


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## builtinbkyn (Oct 29, 2015)

I cut mine on the TS and cleaned them up with a shooting board and hand plane. Made a fixture for splines and use with a router. Biscuits will do too.


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## builtinbkyn (Oct 29, 2015)

kyngfish said:


> Solid walnut. I’ll look into the bit -and great idea but holy crap those are expensive. I have a festool tracksaw and I think I can attach my router so let’s see.


I think those miter lock bits are too big to use handheld.


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## CommonJoe (May 8, 2021)

I set up a sacrifice fence on the table saw and made my first cut 1/16th shy from the point. Made the cut, let the drop off piece kick out the back. Then re adjusted the fence to cut to the point, so that I was basically cleaning up the miter, and made the final cut.


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## kyngfish (Feb 26, 2018)

CommonJoe said:


> I set up a sacrifice fence on the table saw and made my first cut 1/16th shy from the point. Made the cut, let the drop off piece kick out the back. Then re adjusted the fence to cut to the point, so that I was basically cleaning up the miter, and made the final cut.
> View attachment 3859387
> 
> 
> View attachment 3859388


Nice. My panels are wider. But not by much. Really clean though. Love the grain following the corner. Veneers?


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## CommonJoe (May 8, 2021)

kyngfish said:


> Nice. My panels are wider. But not by much. Really clean though. Love the grain following the corner. *Veneers?*


These nightstands were 20" wide.
Solid


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## kyngfish (Feb 26, 2018)

CommonJoe said:


> These nightstands were 20" wide.
> Solid
> View attachment 3859413


Just curious. How were you able to get the grain to follow around without evidence of the 1/8th inch kerf taking a little of the wood away


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## CommonJoe (May 8, 2021)

kyngfish said:


> Just curious. How were you able to get the grain to follow around without evidence of the 1/8th inch kerf taking a little of the wood away


The kerf is gone, it just lined up good.


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## skogie1 (Sep 1, 2014)

I did this with my tracksaw and it worked out fine for a dresser. I had a long glue-up of a couple cherry boards that I ran the bevel on, then I cut them square for the top and sides. I don't recall any alignment issues when it came time to glue the carcass. i do remember futzing quite awhile to make sure I cut square. Best of luck.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

*kyngfish*
I would say how you do this miter is subject to what kind of equipment you have, if your using a job site saw this will be a challenge to get a decent bevel ,but if you have a good saw and side feed table with sled plus a Wixey digital angle gauge it should be a breeze otherwise consider the router route, Using any approach definitely do a test cut on a scrap or just leave your workpiece long allowing for more attempts at getting the perfect miter. if you're concerned with a burnt cut you want to leave just enough for a lite cut after the initial cut anyway for a clean-up pass afterward anyhow. Besides fit and appearance the joinery you select in addition to the miter for this joint will be key to its long-term strength.


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## kyngfish (Feb 26, 2018)

a1Jim said:


> *kyngfish*
> I would say how you do this miter is subject to what kind of equipment you have, if your using a job site saw this will be a challenge to get a decent bevel ,but if you have a good saw and side feed table with sled plus a Wixey digital angle gauge it should be a breeze otherwise consider the router route, Using any approach definitely do a test cut on a scrap or just leave your workpiece long allowing for more attempts at getting the perfect miter. if you're concerned with a burnt cut you want to leave just enough for a lite cut after the initial cut anyway for a clean-up pass afterward anyhow. Besides fit and appearance the joinery you select in addition to the miter for this joint will be key to its long-term strength.


it’s an old saw. But a good saw. Delta unisaw without that awful fence. I can’t remember horsepower but I wanna say 3. 240 volt. I gots a good sled as well. That’s the route I will probably go. I don’t really love 45 degree bevels with glue joinery tho.


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## kyngfish (Feb 26, 2018)

Unrelated but I’ve been on a sort of hiatus from woodwork while I took on a yard remodel that has basically taken up all my time. About 800 sq feet of decking and leveling a huge yard. Hardscape. List goes on and on but I haven’t really touched my woodworking tools until this random commission jumped up and. I used my rotex 150 for like 3 hours today and I forgot how awesome that thing is. No hand fatigue and just makes sanding so easy. Festool is really one of the few products that stands so far apart from the rest that even though the money is outrageous - there really is no substitute.

I haven’t used a tracksaw other than my festool so I don’t know if the makita or other offerings out there are almost as good. But for the sander and router at least - I haven’t found anything I think comes close 

I want to write an ode to my sander or something. A haiku maybe?


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

kyngfish said:


> it’s an old saw. But a good saw. Delta unisaw without that awful fence. I can’t remember horsepower but I wanna say 3. 240 volt. I gots a good sled as well. That’s the route I will probably go. I don’t really love 45 degree bevels with glue joinery tho.


I would suggest in addition to your mitered corners using loose tenons or stop miter joinery.


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## kyngfish (Feb 26, 2018)

a1Jim said:


> I would suggest in addition to your mitered corners using loose tenons or stop miter joinery.


when did I start miter joinery


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

kyngfish said:


> when did I start miter joinery


You're cutting a bevel but its a miter joint.


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## kyngfish (Feb 26, 2018)

a1Jim said:


> You're cutting a bevel but its a miter joint.


I asked for advice on best practice. I haven’t done anything at all.
I ended up getting the lock bevel bit. My router has a track attachment and I’ll inch into the cut in probably 3 passes.


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## JRsgarage (Jan 2, 2017)

I think without a router table, even the smaller lock miter bits would be nerve wrecking to run on a handheld router. I think table saw and running splines, or as Jim mentioned loose tenons to help in for glue up will be the safest way... Or the track saw but that might be a little tippy


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## kyngfish (Feb 26, 2018)

JRsgarage said:


> I think without a router table, even the smaller lock miter bits would be nerve wrecking to run on a handheld router. I think table saw and running splines, or as Jim mentioned loose tenons to help in for glue up will be the safest way... Or the track saw but that might be a little tippy


The track saw and router have worked well for me in the past on other things but it’s definitely an open question. I’m hoping with multiple passes it will work well but definitely going to do a test piece.
It’s a reasonably beefy router and the track saw attach is specifically made for it.
When I make some test passes I’ll post here with some results.


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## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

kyngfish said:


> The track saw and router have worked well for me in the past on other things but it’s definitely an open question. I’m hoping with multiple passes it will work well but definitely going to do a test piece.
> It’s a reasonably beefy router and the track saw attach is specifically made for it.
> When I make some test passes I’ll post here with some results.



I've done long passes with a lock miter bit and handheld. It's an excellent joint and doing a small pre-bevel with a saw helps reduce the load on the router bit. Be careful of how much you lop of with a pre-bevel since the bit extends its profile quite a bit past the 45 degree miter portion.

Hardest part is keeping the router perfectly square to the surfaces during your passes. Any wobble will leave gaps at the corners.

I'm trying to remember if you need to do one ends cut with the router riding on the face of the wood and the adjoining ends cut with the router riding on the boards edge. The latter cut can be done by clamping the board to the side of a flat workbench and riding the router on the bench top.


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## kyngfish (Feb 26, 2018)

splintergroup said:


> I've done long passes with a lock miter bit and handheld. It's an excellent joint and doing a small pre-bevel with a saw helps reduce the load on the router bit. Be careful of how much you lop of with a pre-bevel since the bit extends its profile quite a bit past the 45 degree miter portion.
> 
> Hardest part is keeping the router perfectly square to the surfaces during your passes. Any wobble will leave gaps at the corners.
> 
> I'm trying to remember if you need to do one ends cut with the router riding on the face of the wood and the adjoining ends cut with the router riding on the boards edge. The latter cut can be done by clamping the board to the side of a flat workbench and riding the router on the bench top.


good point. I’ll do the test piece and see how it fits up. It makes sense that you might need to do the board edge on one side. So for the taller piece maybe run it on the face and the smaller Sides on the board edge


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## PlentyFarmLLC (Aug 25, 2020)

Butt joint the sides to the bottom. You can make a beveled facade for the front, a separate piece glued to the sides/bottom. Make the front facade from pieces ripped from the sides/bottom material so the grain matches. I did this on a night table a few years back when I was tool poor.


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