# How to make curly maple pop?



## SouthernBoy (Nov 2, 2010)

I am making a keepsake box for my wife.(my first real project.) And I am making it out of walnut and curly maple. I've seen many projects on LJ's that has the maple just absolutley jumping out at you. What kind of finish would you recomend and how will it also effect the walnut?


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

Linseed and tung oil finishes have an incredible depth. I'd test out something
like Watco natural (it's a "wipe on" varnish with a lot of linseed oil in it) and
see if you like the way it looks. You can lay on a lot of coats of it, and it builds
and dries faster than linseed oil. Anything with stain it it will probably work 
against you in getting the effect you want.

After oil finish you can put a transparent finish over that for more protection.
Oil looks really cool but you have to make sure you get enough coats on so
it doesn't end up looking "thirsty".

Finishes that have an amber color, like shellac and spar varnish, tend to "pop" 
the grain better than the colorless finishes in my opinion.


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## fussy (Jan 18, 2010)

In addition to Loren's suggestion, and hes absolutely right, aniline dyes followed by an oil finish will make the fighur jump right out and grab you.

Steve


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

I bet you're looking at some aniline dye pieces. Aniline dyed tiger maple is hard to forget.


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## mattg (May 6, 2008)

I like Tung Oil for a small project, it just makes figured maple sparkle! I think it may be too much work for a piece of furniture. In that case, dye BLO and Garnet Shellac!


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## PhineasWhipsnake (Jan 20, 2010)

I've just finished a curly maple/bloodwood box. (My first Incra double-dovetail project). I used several coats of blonde shellac, and the figure on the maple is just spectacular.


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## hObOmOnk (Feb 6, 2007)

I'm with Matt Garcia;
a little dye, a little drying oil(I too use real tung oil) and a nice top finish of shellac or oil-based varnish.

BTW: Watco Danish Oil is 75% solvent. The remaining 25% (the active ingredients) is a blend of linseed oil, soya oil, resin and a little colorant (like, Gilsonite). It is a highly diluted oil/resin blend, not a wiping varnish. That doesn't mean that it can't look good when used properly.


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## closetguy (Sep 29, 2007)

View this video.


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## bigike (May 25, 2009)

closetguy got this is what method I use and it's great cuz the more you add the better it is like the vid sayes.


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## Millo (Jan 19, 2010)

I'm VERY interested in knowing how you think using that Wood Whisperer's method on that vid will affect the walnut, as I am actually making some VERY small projects w/ tiger maple and walnut. Would this darken the walnut too much, or will the shellac just stay in the pores after sanding? Thanks!

Not too long ago I read one of Charles Neil's replies to a similar question right here @ Lumberjocks. He said one could use the Seal-A-Cell which would do a similar thing to amber ("blond") shellac or boiled linseed oil to "pop the grain".... so first BLO and then some clear topcoat, or Seal-a-cell then a topcoat? What would the main differences be?

Thanks!


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## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

the seal a cell dries well, and has some light ambering to it,( warming), BLO just takes so long to dry, if you really want to pop it, do the seal a cell, then a coat of blond shelllac…or seal coat, let the seal a cell dry over night.. and it will explode ,, then top coat as you wish,


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## skippyland (Jan 12, 2011)

I have used, with great success a blend of tung oil, urethane, and naptha in thin wipe on coats…it makes you expect to "feel the waves".


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## Millo (Jan 19, 2010)

yeah, I was wondering if using a tine to enhance the grain would also kill a bit of its iridescence. You know how it changes color depending on light reflection? I was wondering if doing the shellac/transtint method (I already have their golden brown and red mahogany lying around) would make the curl obvious, but kill its iridescence.

Yes, "feel the waves" is a great to put it.

Charles, thanks for dropping by.


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## Millo (Jan 19, 2010)

I mean "tint", not "tine", but I think I'm going to go straight General Finishes Seal then Arm on the whole thing… cheers…


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## donutslayer (Apr 3, 2011)

Gents, thanks for the great info. I have tried what Charles Neil suggest in post #10 and it pops nicely. I just need to get the wood just a tad darker. Can Transtint be added to Seal-A-Cell or should I just mix it with alcohol then add a few coats of Seal-A-Coat?


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## donutslayer (Apr 3, 2011)

Gents, thanks for the great info. I have tried what Charles Neil suggest in post #10 and it pops nicely. I just need to get the wood just a tad darker. Can Transtint be added to Seal-A-Cell or should I just mix it with alcohol then add a few coats of Seal-A-Coat?


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## Crushgroovin (May 24, 2010)

I am doing a side by side with straight BLO & Charles Neils process. I am turning 2 quilted maple bowls to see how they compare. The first one is just about done. The second will be done in a day or two. I will post them once I get them finished.


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## tenderfootbob (Apr 30, 2011)

I am making a credenza out of curly maple for a friend. The maple, is expensive but oh so spectacular! I want to put a finish on the credenza that is worthy of the wood, but so far my efforts have produced dissappointing results.

On scraps from cut-offs I have: 1) sanded to 220 grit; 2) applied Zinsser Bulls Eye Seal coat: 3) applied TransTint dye ("vintage Maple" a lighter color); 4) sanded to 1000 grit; and 5) applied Watco "Danish oil" (Natural color).

The end grain sucked up the dye, but so did the rest of the surface. Sanding has not made lighter appreciably the surface between the end grain.

Years ago I was able to get figured maple to "pop" spectacularly, but I cannot remember my recipe. If anyone has any ideas for a finish recipe, I would very much appreciate hearing from you.

Thanks, Tenderfoot Bob


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

Not Maple but this is what plain super blonde shellac will do for grain:


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## PhilPerformance (Apr 4, 2012)

THanks for all the information/suggestions! I'm ready to put a finish on a tiger maple table top and was planning to use General oil-based urethane finishes. I've had great luck with them on cherry and walnut projects but this is my first serious maple project.

For maple I really like the suggestion from SKIPPYLAND: "I have used, with great success a blend of tung oil, urethane, and naptha in thin wipe on coats…it makes you expect to "feel the waves".

My question is: What proportions do you use in your blend of tung oil, urethane, and naptha? Phil (40 years experience doesn't mean I can't qualify as an amateur)


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## TCCcabinetmaker (Dec 14, 2011)

Sand it really well, to very high grits, guitar companies use lacquer for a reason as well…


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## PhilPerformance (Apr 4, 2012)

Thanks for the quick reply and information TCCcabinetmaker.

I've sanded the whole surface (top, bottom) in small steps of grits down to 320. Then I sanded the end grain to 400 so it may not darken more with the clear finish. Is that adequate fineness of sanding or should I be going to a finer grit? It has a very smooth surface feel now. Where I've used this technique on hard maple drawer sides before they turned out quite well, but I've never done exposed surface maple this way.

Thanks again for your help!


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

One could use an OLD Gun Stock Finish. Metal filings soaked in vinegar overnight, strain the metal out, brush on the vinegar. Does it work? Look at those old Curly Maple Stocked Kentucky Rifles. THAT is the finish to bring out the curls.

Now a days, take a coarse steel wool "ball' and soak it in a mason Jar of vinegar overnight. The trick is to wrap the steel wool in cheesecloth. Next morning, pull the cheesecloth ball out of the jar. Flow the "finish" on. Allow to dry. Mat need a second "coat", and then allow to dry until no vinegar smell. Top coat with your choice of stuff.


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## RogerM (Oct 31, 2011)

SouthernBoy - Below is an excert from a reply I gave to a response on my curly maple cabinets. If you would like to see the finish go to my page, RogerM. I would be happy to answer any questions that you may have. Like you, I battled this question a long time before I came up with this finish.

The finish is a multistep process which I have come up with based on a lot of trial and error. First sand the stock to 180 grit sandpaper. I use a random orbit sander and a Porter Cable multi tool for the raised panels. Wet the stock with water then sand again when dry. To get the curl to come through on curly maple you have to use a dye. I use Moser's water soluable medium walnut dye (it is a powder that you can get from Bartley's Furniture Kits website). I mix this using two cups of water to 3/4 teaspoon of dye powder. After this dries lightly sand with slowed down random orbit sander (400 grit) then put on a second coat and sand again (400 grit). Follow this with a coat of boiled linseed oil diluted with equal parts of mineral spirits (I use a rag for this). Let this coat dry at least 24 hours then put on a coat of Seal Coat diluted with equal parts of alcohol (I use a chip brush for this). After this dries rub down with 00 steel wool or use the random orbit sander using 600 grit (you can get this from Klingspors). Follow this coat with successive coats of polyurethane diluted with equal parts of mineral spirits (I rag this on until I get the sheen that I want). The cabinets have three coats. Finally, lightly sand the final coat with a slowed down random orbit sander with 1000 grit (Klingspor's again). Rub down the entire surface with Minwax Finishing wax applied with 0000 steel wool and buff. Rather lengthy but hope this helps.


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## Gshepherd (May 16, 2012)

Get the book Glen Huey's Illustrated guide to Building Period Furniture…... It also has a DVD showing how to make the grain to POP….... Excellet book….


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## TrBlu (Mar 19, 2011)

I like danish oil. It is a neutral color, so works great with walnut and maple.


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## Fuzzy (Jun 25, 2007)

WATCO's MSDS says only that Linseed Oil is more than 3% ... I don't think that qualifies as "A LOT" ... but then, as much as I despise that garbage, even 3% is too much !!!


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## McKinneyMike (Feb 11, 2011)

I always use a wash coat of dark brown transtint dye then sand lightly. The wood density of the figured wood absorbs the dye at different rates and the final results are almost always perfect. Jeff Jewitt (http://www.homesteadfinishingproducts.com) is a great resource for finishing tips and products from an industry respected finisher. As others have said, try out any process on scraps first.


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