# Cutting Plexiglas on a SawStop - blade?



## Elizabeth (Oct 17, 2009)

Hi all,

I may need to cut some acrylic sheets (aka Plexiglas, etc) for a furniture/modification project and I am wondering what type of blade I should get to ensure a smooth finish. I have a Sawstop; as far as I know I don't have to bypass the safety features to cut, this since it's nonconductive, but please correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks!

(Edited to remove reference to Lexan, which is a different substance!)


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## muleskinner (Sep 24, 2011)

Can't comment on the sawstop issue. I cut plexiglass with my regular Frued combo blade and get a nice smooth cut.


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## Alexandre (May 26, 2012)

Doesnt the plexiglass melt onto the blade?


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## bhog (Jan 13, 2011)

Cannot comment on the sawstop either but have cut it on a few saws.Slow feed rate and you will be fine.


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## muleskinner (Sep 24, 2011)

Nope. At least not in my experience. I just feed it like I would a piece of 1/8 in. plywood and it seems to work fine.


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## azal (Mar 26, 2008)

no prob. go slow there will be build up of melted Plexiglas under plex. so watch for it. carb. blade is ok. If the edges need to be clear dust them with a torch But be careful !!


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## Earlextech (Jan 13, 2011)

The blade doesn't matter too much, as long as it's sharp. You'll still have to sand the edges to get them smoooooth. A small amount will "melt" onto the blade but will also pop right off.


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

Most people I know use a fine tooth blade turned around so it runs backwards. I would also apply some masking tape on the cut line. This will help eliminate chipping. Make sure the plastic is held down tightly to the table and use a zero clearance insert. Another way would be to sandwich the plastic between two thin pieces of plywood and feed slowly.


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## ADHDan (Aug 17, 2012)

I cut lexan with a normal Freud blade, but in an abundance of caution I do it in two passes to prevent shattering. I raise blade height to half the thickness of the lexan, cut one side, then flip the workpiece and finish the other.


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## Elizabeth (Oct 17, 2009)

That's a good idea, Dan. MrRon, I don't have a zero clearance insert, but I could sandwich the plastic. Or maybe it's time to get a zero clearance insert…


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## JayCop (Sep 26, 2011)

Make sure your plexi is "cast." otherwise it will melt on the blade.


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## ADHDan (Aug 17, 2012)

Oh yeah, I also use a ZCI.


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

I cut Plexiglas with my Forrest Woodworker II blade all the time. It does not melt the plex the but the *chips are full of static and stick everywhere.*

I have cut plex with other blades that required a score cut before a complete cut to eliminate chip out but my Forrest blade doesn't require that!

Using my Forrest blade leaves the edges smooth enough that a progression of sandpaper to 400 W/D paper will clear them up. If I want it super clear edge I use the polishing compound Novus in its various grades!


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

You have to be very careful cutting Plexiglas /Lexan on a TS. 
I had multiple experiences of the Plexiglas shattering and sending shrapnels all over the place.
Now I wear a face shield when doing that


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## Elizabeth (Oct 17, 2009)

Good to know, Bert, thanks - I'll wear one!


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## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

I hope you don't have to cut a lot of that stuff, its toxic as heck. I'd use a plain old steel panel blade. Something with like 180 teeth cuts great and less risk of fracture. If its thicker than about 3/4 inch I'd go with a Freud thin kerf rip blade. I've cut this stuff before and it's not fun. Be sure to wear a face shield.


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

I have used several different blades for cutting plexi glass. I think I like the old fashioned plywood blade the best. The fine toothed steel blade. be careful. That stuff will not show up on an x-ray.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

I would call Stopsaw and ask. I don't know if that static will affect it or not. Be interesting to find out.


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## REO (Sep 20, 2012)

Triple chip works well there is a blade made especialy for cutting plastics it has a negative rake on the teeth. if you are not going to cut tons of it it isnt worth getting a special blade for it. It can be cut with just about any blade with varying results. the best is a blade with a wide tooth compared to the disk of the saw dont use a thin kerf blade. the clearance after the tooth is what causes melting and build up set the saw so it just clears the top of the material. Taping helps because the shreds of tape mix with the chips and keep them from building up. sand or file the edge afterward. buffing is safer than flame polishing unless you have expirience because if you over heat it the edge will craze.

As far as EVER turning a blade around the ONLY time I have found this usefull is cutting vinyl siding with a very fine tooth blade, usualy I use a metal cutoff and abraseivly cut it. For sheet metal roofing a standard carbide running the right way will cut it bur free. If you turn any kind of blade around it will always raise a whale of a burr and discolor the edge.


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## alkillian (Mar 19, 2011)

I use a non ferrous(metal) cutting blade to cut lexan all the time and have no problem


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## MBeck (Jan 13, 2011)

I don't know how much plexiglass you are cutting, but they make a blade specifically for this. I used to install custom stereo enclosures and we cut a ton of this stuff, usually 3/4" thick. Also, make sure you use tape on both of the edges you plan to cut. This will prevent chipping and give you a nice sharp edge. The torch trick works to clean it up. If you plan on joining two surfaces together make sure they are glass smooth, otherwise there will be leaking/ air seepage.
You can also use a fine tooth blade (80 or 90) to make a nice, clean cut. However, it is better to have a designated blade for this since buildup can occur and wreck an otherwise good wood blade. Hope this helps.
Here is a link to the type of blade I am talking about: http://www.casa.com/p/freud-lu94m010-10-80-tooth-mtcg-plexiglass-plastic-cutting-saw-blade-w-5-8-arbor-236861?site=CA&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=cpc_C&utm_term=HYV-2554&utm_campaign=GoogleAW&CAWELAID=1309084027&utm_content=pla&adtype=pla&cagpspn=pla


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

All I know is that I cut Plexiglass ONE time with my BS, and had a heck of a time cleaning the melted plastic off of the blade. And when I tried using my 16in scrollsaw, the plastic would remelt and rejoin after the cut, even at low speed.


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## riverguy (Sep 30, 2012)

Many years ago I worked in a shop where we did lots of fabrication with Plexiglas. As mentioned here before, there are two kinds: extruded and cast. Cast is the kind you can cut on your table saw. Extruded just melts from the heat of the blade. For the best quality and safest cuts, we used a 7 1/4" hollow-ground (not carbide), 140-tooth plywood blade, running backwards. Reason for that is that Plexiglas likes to be cut with a scraping action, as in a seriously negative rake on the blade teeth. That way there's no chipping or worse, explosions of shrapnel! The blade needs to be sharp! The small-diameter blade also presents a slower rim speed, generating less heat. Kind of like running your saw at half speed.

To easily clean off any melt residue on the edge of your cut, just scrape with a single-edge razor blade. Then if you want a nice, clean edge, scrape it with that same blade. A few swipes and the saw marks are gone. Want a quick polish? A light sweep with a propane torch will do it. If you're going to be doing this a lot, a small welding torch burning hydrogen and oxygen works best, as any other gas (especially acetylene) tends to burn a bit of soot into the edge of your plastic. The torch thing takes a bit of practice (and a tiny flame), but it's pretty easy and beats the heck out of using polishing compounds!

I hope that helps!


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## SCOTSMAN (Aug 1, 2008)

Why not get your sister to nibble it to almost size with her false teeth all 28 tungsten and then trim as usual on the saw to final dimensions.It works for me everytime, Alistair p.s don't knock it til you've tried it LOL


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## lumberjoe (Mar 30, 2012)

I did this a while back without issue. I asked my hardware store for some tips as they cut a lot of it. The guy suggested the same thing MrRon mentioned. It actually worked like a charm. I put an 80 tooth cross cut blade on backward and made some cuts. I did tape the cut line, but there was no chipping or shattering.


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