# Need help with dealing with tearout



## BB1 (Jan 29, 2016)

I pulled out my incra ibox jig for a little project - a holder for a trash container for our RV. Did test cuts to refamilarize myself with the steps and was successful with a nice snug joint. Unfortunately I forgot to readjust the back support for a lower depth cut on my actual project pieces so ended up with some chipout. I cannot shorten the sides as I actually had the size just right. I have it glued up (likely my second mistake). My question is - are there any ways to disguise the chip out? I was thinking of trying to angle the sides or even create a vertical insert. Once again, a project in need of some "design features"...any ideas are welcome!

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## rad457 (Jun 15, 2013)

You could plane the sides down to remove the tearout? Router groves on the corners to give it the appearance of a design detail? I would run it over my jointer. (helical head carbide)


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## BB1 (Jan 29, 2016)

Thank Andre for some good options to consider. I don't have a jointer but having been thinking about what router bit might work (as I do have a router table). I don't know if making a shallow angled cut on each side at the table saw would help. I did use the table saw to trim the back the excess length of the fingers. The walls aren't that thick (don't have an exact measure) so that is something I need to keep in mind.


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## BurlyBob (Mar 13, 2012)

Is the gap have any open area to it? I just got done using a two part epoxy to fill gaps in a display case of red oak and black walnut splines. I had to dig a little of the glue with a dental pick. I put a little extra hardner in the mix. It worked pretty darn nice. I trimmed the bulk of the excess with a real sharp chisel and sanded it down. I had some 320 grit for the final polish sanding. A couples of poly and you honestly can't see the gaps. You might give that a try.


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## BB1 (Jan 29, 2016)

BurlyBob - Thank you for that suggestion. I have some minor gaps but mainly concerned with the tear out. I have not used epoxy for anything like this - is there a particular type/brand that you have found to work well for this type of application? I did a quick search and see Loctite, Gorilla but then also others like Bob Smith Industries and Devcon Epoxy. From your description, it sounds like there may be other uses in the future so this may be a chance for me to learn a new technique (which seems true of about every project!!).


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

How 'bout a roundover bit? Radiused box joints look nice and wit a big enough radius, will remove your tearout too.


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## BurlyBob (Mar 13, 2012)

I tried that Gorilla two part epoxy and it apparently didn't give two equal portions. It was the 5 minute stuff, 24 hours it was still sticky. I went to the local Ace hardware and bought their brand that came with 2 separate tubes, resin and hardener. I used acetone to rubbed down and soften the Gorilla epoxy and dug much of it out with a dental pick. I guess you could use anything small; a nail or screwdriver. I just happened to have a dental pick handy. My thought was to just fill the gaps and it seemed to do that job quite well.

I have used a plastic resin kit I bought at a craft store to fill knots with good success. West Marine also makes a two part system that I understand works real well. I know Jamestown Distributors has that.

Best of luck.


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## JBrow (Nov 18, 2015)

BB1,

A shallow rabbet cut wide enough to remove the chip out would create a recess for a thin inlay strip glued in place. The inlay strip could remain proud of the surface or flushed up. The inlay strip could be of the same wood or a contrasting wood as an accent. If the inlay strip is a contrasting wood, both faces that form the corner could get the same treatment, adding another layer of detail to the project.

Of course, this fix would render the dovetail joint invisible. Also I am not sure whether the inlay strip would crack over time, though if thin and narrow enough I doubt it would.


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## KelleyCrafts (May 17, 2016)

> How bout a roundover bit? Radiused box joints look nice and wit a big enough radius, will remove your tearout too.
> 
> - HokieKen


+1 for what Kenny said.


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## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

I'd do as JB suggests (and you eluded to). A nice strip of wood inlayed to cover up the chipout and gaps. Simple passes with a router or flat grind (rip) blade on the table saw set to the depth of your inlay wood.


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

I know it is too late, since the pieces are complete, but by using a backer board when cutting these you would reduce tear out dramatically.

In your case I might try Timbermate filler. 
Different colors can be intermixed to get the desired color.
I have used Timbermate on many occasions, some of which were on visible surfaces.
I my opinion it is one of the best, easiest, and safest fillers to use!


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## Kirk650 (May 8, 2016)

Yup, use a backer board. If I don't, I get tearout also.


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## BB1 (Jan 29, 2016)

Thank you to everyone for the suggestions. I'm not sure yet which way I'll go but had a few more questions. I had tried using a roundover bit on a prior project (the tissue box cover) and found the rounded corners didn't sand nicely. Seemed to stand out a bit. I'm guessing there was something in my technique at the router table or with sanding. I ran the box through the router twice - once for each "side" of the corner. Is that needed or should I adjust my fence and bit height in a way to just make a single pass?

Of course if I go with inlaid wood, that wouldn't require the roundover…but will still need to deal with some space issues…so that means back to potentially trying epoxy and / or the Timbermate (thank you for the link)

Of course this all could have been avoided if I had adjusted my backer board after doing some practice cuts. Since it had been about a year since I used the ibox, I had to go through the steps. My wood for the practice time was thicker so the backer board was basically ineffective when I moved on to my project pieces. A lesson that I won't forget (hopefully!).


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## BB1 (Jan 29, 2016)

Not done yet but decided to try the roundover option. It is looking better. I still have some spots that I need to fix so think I'm going to try epoxy. Thanks so much for all the suggestions. Hopefully will have a completed project to post down the road (weekends are about my only time to get into the shop or bit of time late in the day).


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

I'd say that looks just fine BB1. Regarding sanding, the issue is that 1/2 of the joint on each face is end grain and the other 1/2 is long grain. Personally with joints like that, I sand across the grain, only at the joints, until I get everything smooth then sand it up to 320 grit. Then I go back and sand the entire thing with the grain to 220. Since the cross grain scratch marks are finer, the 220 grit typically removes them well enough. YMMV of course.


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## BB1 (Jan 29, 2016)

Kenny - thank you for the advice on the sanding. Those last steps are always a challenge for me - I think I see the end in sight and tend to rush. I have been focused much more on the sanding aspect on this one so hopefully will end up with a better result.


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## RandyinFlorida (Sep 27, 2012)

I've filled gaps like that by just mixing sawdust (from same type wood) with wood glue.


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## BurlyBob (Mar 13, 2012)

That round over does look real good. I'd say your done right there, no need to do anymore.


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## BB1 (Jan 29, 2016)

BurlyBob- yes…I feel like I'm getting closer to "finishing" (tend to see that one more spot that needs attention)

Randy - I have tried the sawdust in glue with some success. How do you keep from having the glue interfere with the finish? My guess is that with a recent project that I did not do enough sanding following my use to fill in a bit of a gap.


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