# Craftsman variable speed wood lathe model # 351.217170



## Zodosh (Dec 17, 2009)

Just before Thanksgiving, I bought this lathe from a local pawnshop for $200.00.
I tested the lathe before buying it and it worked ok, the only thing was turning the variable speed down to off the motor would slowly keep rotating until you shut off the main power. The knob was broken so I went to Radio Shack and bought another one. Over this past weekend I finished the base and set the lathe up plugged it in turned it on rotated the variable speed and nothing. So I checked the AC outlet ok, the power connections threw out the lathe including brushes ok, removed the potentiometer and it was not ok. Went back to Radio Shack and bought a B10K Linear-Taper Potentiometer (The B= Linear-Taper). Soldered the 3 wire connector on. I also cleaned out all the sawdust with canned air that was in the motor, and covering the circuit board. Put it all back together and still nothing. I have checked the voltage at the main line ok, at the circuit board I am getting a reading but it is very low.
This is what I am thinking that I should replace the circuit board and replace the Potentiometer with the exact Potentiometer from Sears because that one is switched.
I can't find any information about this model on the Internet except for this
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00929848000P?keyword=lathe this bowl turning accessories is bolted to the headstock of the same model lathe as mine
I would be grateful for any help or suggestions 
The wood lathe is assembled with motor, speed control IC,
gear box and wiring installed as an integral part of the headstock assembly.
The 90 Volt DC motor has the following specifications:
Horsepower (Maximum Developed) ................... 2
Voltage (D.C.) .................................. 90
Amperes …................................... 12
Hertz …..................................... 60
Phase….................................. Single
RPM ….............................. 2000-10000 (Potentiometer and Circuit Board)
Rotation (viewed from left side)............... Clockwise


----------



## davidpettinger (Aug 21, 2009)

Go to sears.com, then go to parts direct. Enter the model # in the appropriate box. Your entire lathe minus a circuit board is listed, including the potentiometer.


----------



## Zodosh (Dec 17, 2009)

Thank you for your advice I have done that. What I am looking for is information from people that have used this model lathe or something similar and had the same thing happen. Why?
Don't have a big budget
Don't want to play the order the part then wait game only to have it not work
Some parts are no longer available, so are there other resources or parts that could accomplish the same thing?
Thank you


----------



## Zodosh (Dec 17, 2009)

Craftsman Lathe update;
I still have not received the parts I ordered for my lathe from Sears Parts direct I called them and they said that they are on back order from the manufacture, but their Web Site has them in stock I asked who was the manufacturer of the parts and they would not release that to me. So I looked up the manufacturer by the first 3 digits.
351 prefix is Colovos Co. I called them and they said buy the end of the month?????
Has anyone ever used this lathe and if so how did you like it? Model No.
351.21 7170

Thanks for any info in advance


----------



## screate (Feb 21, 2010)

I have one that is now deceased. The transmission blew up. What parts did you need?


----------



## docd (Feb 21, 2010)

I have the same lathe and I have put over $500.00 in repairs thinking each one will last. Never does. It is not working now and I am going to thow it away. By the way, I have put three circuit boards in it pluss all of the other electrical.

docd, columbus


----------



## asthesawturns (Aug 23, 2009)

I had one, the tranny belt blew up 10 times in 2 1/2 years, but I had the protection plan from sears ($70) They spent a little over $3000 to fix it then when they discontinued it they spent $2000 to replace it with a Jet 1642. For me it was a great investment. There are many craftsman tools I would not purchase and a few that I would.
I wish you luck.
P.S. the tranny belt that they sell you is a gates rice paper version, but Gates also makes a kevlar version, contact them directly for a good belt, if you get that far.


----------



## Zodosh (Dec 17, 2009)

I s**k for not logging in for a long time sorry all. But in my defense I was losing any ambition and funds I had to learn wood turning and put it on the back burner. The lathe is still down what I need is to fix or replace the 2 hp electric motor. Fixing means replacing the brush holders no longer in stock and brushes.

Still would like advice

Thank you


----------



## tmouch (Aug 21, 2010)

Did you get the issue with the inoperative lathe solved? I had just busted the potentiometeron my 351.217170 lathe during a move and thought about one possible problem that could have caused the issue.

When you put it together did you re attach the two grounding wires that are attached to the lathe case by the cover you removed to access the potentiometer??

The grounding wires attach to the case using the longer cover screw in the lower left hand corner of the cover.


----------



## Zodosh (Dec 17, 2009)

The ground wires were attached to the bottom of the headstock separately with machine screws. And unfortunately not yet it starts and then stalls I even have it pluged into its own dedicated line AARRRGGGG


----------



## foxtrot (Sep 2, 2010)

The motor speed control is probably defective. It is not available from sears, but a mc-60 form a treadmill is working in my lathe with some minor modifications. foxtrot


----------



## Zodosh (Dec 17, 2009)

Thank you for a great idea. I was able to get a new circut board last year and found out it was the pot-switch and replaced that, so when I come across a treadmill I will try that.


----------



## foxtrot (Sep 2, 2010)

If you want a new speed controller, the pot needs to be replaced with a 5000 ohm linear taper. Also a new speed controller can be bought for $50.00 and up. Mine was from Century Service 4278 Rurik Dr. Howell Michigan 48843.


----------



## Zodosh (Dec 17, 2009)

The controller is ok what I think it maybe is the motor


----------



## foxtrot (Sep 2, 2010)

Anything is possible. If you hook the motor leads to a car battery, it should run slow. It will measure almost a dead short when it is normal. probably .7 to 1.5 ohms. It is a d.c. motor rated at 12 amps 90 volts. I think that the brush's are still available, but don't quote me.


----------



## Zodosh (Dec 17, 2009)

I was able to finally scrounge some parts together to get my lathe running. What remains now is to clean up the wiring and refine it.


----------



## tmouch (Aug 21, 2010)

Help!!! I got the electronics on the Craftsman lathe working fine. Starts, has speed control through the knob so I thought I was all set.

Next issue: radial freeplay makes any chance of turning impossible. As I add a The bearings in the motor do not have freeplay so I am thinking that the issue is in the transmission. Has anyone else ran into this problem?

I have not tore the transmission apart yet. I was interested in gaining some experience from others that have before I do this.

Any help that you can provide is greatly appreciated.


----------



## foxtrot (Sep 2, 2010)

My lathe has a small amount of radial freeplay. What bothered me was the lateral free play. There is only one gear in the transmission. I lubed it with synthetic grease early on. As it was noisy, I also replaced the main bearing, which required a press. the thrust bearing is also not the best. reassembling it after replacing the main bearing was a chore. Good luck with your project. foxtrot


----------



## jason64 (Mar 7, 2011)

hi. I just found this sight. But I have this same lathe and have had it for a long time. I just took out the the gear shaft and it is nolonger avalibal so if anyone has an old one or knows a mathing brand with the same parts would realy like not to have to replace it if posible. craftsman Model #351217170


----------



## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

AHHHHH!!! Good old Crapsman strikes again. Don't ya wonder what those screwball are thinkin' as they continue to trash a once good name.
Bill


----------



## woodturner52 (Sep 25, 2012)

I also own this lathe, brand new in 1998. Been a headache for me. Turned some spindles ran lathe constant for about 1-1/2 hrs. Started to slow, then quit. Let lathe sit for a year or two. Decided to fix it. Put new brushes in, cleaned it all up started to turn, ran good for about 20 mins. then quit. Pulled out brushes, worn down to nothing. Tore down headstock, took motor apart and found magnets in stator all in pieces. Wonder if purchased this way?? Anyone know where to get new or used parts?


----------



## foxtrot (Sep 2, 2010)

If the speed control is the problem, I have a modified treadmill speed control that should work It is no longer available from sears. The magnets in the motor sound like someone dropped it.The lathe has a very short final drive shaft, and may not be very good for bowl turning anyway ( my opinion) I have seen two of these lathes with a bad speed control. Mine now has a treadmill speed controller and except for the potentiometer not being very accurate, it is working.


----------



## woodturner52 (Sep 25, 2012)

I believe the speed controller is fine. The lathe did work fine for a short while.


----------



## woodturner52 (Sep 25, 2012)

Can a replacement motor be purchased for craftsman variable speed wood lathe model 351.217170?


----------



## foxtrot (Sep 2, 2010)

I have a 351-217170. I have replaced the potentiometer and the speed controller. To the best of my knowledge parts are not available for this lathe from sears. It is a d.c. motor, and the car battery info. is correct. I have seen to controllers fail, and I have some new treat mill controllers that will work, but with speeds that don't quite match the knob readings. I am located near Indianapolis Indiana, and you could see one that does work.


----------



## Joe12meyer (Jul 20, 2013)

I am trying to fix the same lathe. It is virtually new. Very little dust inside the head, brushes look new. Main power switch works, cooling fan comes on but motor doesn't run. I think it is the "pot" as has been suggested here. It iis no longer listed as available on searspartsdirect.com, and no replacement is offered. The problem is this: No markings are on the pot except for "tai soar" which is who made it. Does anyone know what type of pot this is? Linear? What OHm? I don't know how to check.


----------



## BalloonGuy (Feb 18, 2013)

Joe, I bought this same model second hand about 4 months ago. At first, I had the same problem - power on, fan runs, but won't turn. I removed the brushes, blew out a bunch of sawdust and reinstalled them, no luck. Eventually, I discovered that the pot has to be at zero when the power is turned on, or it won't start. You cannot power it up with the pot set to, say 600 rpm. It has to be at zero, then brought up after power on.

I hope this is the case for you. Good luck.


----------



## Joe12meyer (Jul 20, 2013)

Wow. Thanks Tom. That was it. I guess "on" doesn't really mean on. To be clear the speed control needed reset. This is needed every time the lathe is turned off with the main power BEFORE the speed control is set to zero, or off. So, it was as simple as turning both switches to off, then main power, then speed control.

The sad part is I damaged the case of the pot while trying to examine it, so now it is loose and I still want to replace it… But now I know it works at least and maybe can check it to see what kind it is. Thanks again Tom, god bless.


----------



## BalloonGuy (Feb 18, 2013)

Joe, glad to know it was that simple. Wish the manual had said anything about this. I wonder how many others have had the same problem and thought the pot was bad? Happy turning!


----------



## TCCcabinetmaker (Dec 14, 2011)

with searsparts sometimes you have to find the model that replaced yours to get the part number of the one that you need. However with a potentiometer you can usually find them at an electrical supply house.


----------



## isptpr (Dec 9, 2011)

If any of you have given up on your lathes, I'd be interested in buying one of your tailstock assemblies.


----------



## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

The question is 2 months old, but you can replace the pot with a linear 500k from Radio Shack.

Also; I have a 1958 Craftsman lathe and found out yesterday that Sears still stocks some parts for it, not many but my mind was blown that they had any at all.


----------



## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

I was looking for a an electronic speed controlled head for my Craftsman 15×38 Reeves drive variable speed lathe because I have to tear mine down about 3-4 times a year to free up the pulleys. I'm sad to hear these problems with the electronic one. IN fact I have two of these lathes because the first one had the motor lock up and blow the breaker all the time. After I got the second one, I tore the motor apart on the first one and the armature was .005" out of center and it only has .004" clearance in the filed windings. They were all blue and discolored from the heat generated.

I guess I'll try an electronic one if I run across one. This post might help me if it has speed problems. I'll save it!

Thanks, Jim


----------



## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

Not having found a Crapsman electronic head yet, I am looking at a Nova electronic speed controlled head to see if I can adapt it to my sears lathe. I just don't like Crapsman quality in their power tools any more!..Jim


----------



## foxtrot (Sep 2, 2010)

I have a treadmill speed controller that I have modified for the craftsman model 351-217170. The speed dial needs recalibration but outherwise it works. I have one on my lathe now. If that is the problem, maybe I can help


----------



## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/2014/11/how-to-get-variable-speed-on-cheap.html


----------



## Sarge1 (Jan 14, 2015)

Have same lath with a broken POT. Called Sears Parts direct and they provided manufacturer as one Soto P Colovis Co. A quick search found a company by that name in Chicago with no website and a disconnected phone. No other results for that name came up. Am off to Radio Shack to try the Linear 500k.

By the way, the writings on my POT say On end - "B10K" , on other end - "TAI SOAR" , on side "ZE-60" and 3A-125VAC", for what it is worth.


----------



## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

> By the way, the writings on my POT say On end - "B10K" , on other end - "TAI SOAR" , on side "ZE-60" and 3A-125VAC", for what it is worth.
> 
> - Sarge1


Means it's a 10K linear pot, 3 amps, 125 volts a/c. I don't know what ZE-60 means.


----------



## Sarge1 (Jan 14, 2015)

Soldered a B10K from Radio Shack which did not work. The original one still works but because of partial breakage it is inconsistent. So I know (believe) the problem is the pot. Has anyone found a replacement pot that works with all the original boards and equipment?


----------



## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Hmm, you could measure the resistance with a multimeter and make sure it's a 10K. Did the replacement not work at all, as in it could have been defective? You also have to be careful to buy a linear and not audio taper.


----------



## MrNORTON (Feb 13, 2015)

how do you take the lathe apart to replace bearings and gear


----------



## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

OP has been MIA for 4.5 years. Time to let this tread die.

Norton if you have a question, best to make a new thread with what lathe you have and pics if possible.


----------



## _JR (Apr 19, 2019)

I know this is a VERY old post, but giving some inspiration to others who may have this lathe and experience the same issues. The board is fairly simplistic with exception to the speed controller logic components. The main components that will fail are the the big diode across the motor leads (Digikey 6A4DICT-ND) the AC to to DC converters (Again Digikey BT152-800R,127) . 
Replacing all cost me less than $12 and a half-hour of time with a hot soldering iron.


----------



## Green47 (Jul 25, 2020)

My lathe is running OK for now. My problem is the Spindle thread. It is suppose to be a standard 1×8 TPI. My Nova chuck that fits my Rikon does not fit the Craftsman 351217150 spindle. Have a Craftsman face plate that fits the Craftsman lathe. The face plate will go on the Rikon lathe but is real lose. Does any one know what the real thread size is on the Craftsman?


----------



## megadwarf (May 31, 2021)

am still using mine after all these years…have hesitated to get another as long as it is still in working order…


----------

