# How would you build "The Ultimate Shop Cart"??????



## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

I'm planning on making a shop cart on the next episode of Blue Collar Woodworking and I've been asking everybody I know what they would put on theirs.

What I mean is, a mobile table/bench/cart sort of thing that could be rolled around the shop and used for assembly, as a work surface, anything and everything. The top would be a work surface, and underneath could be spots for tools, clamps, fasteners, tools you always want handy… you name it.

Seriously… YOU name it. I want you to give me some ideas. So have at 'er!

Here's a couple of shop carts built by our fellow LJ's to get the ideas flowing. Of course I want to make it unique, so don't say "just make a bunch of drawers". 







Size is an issue, this isn't going to be HUGE or anything. The top will be around 28" X 40" and of average height.

(Note: I don't actually want you to "name" the cart, just tell me what you'd put on yours if you were building it.)


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## GaryC (Dec 31, 2008)

Two things I would consider.
1. I'd wire it and put an extension cord on it so I could have power if needed, or roll up the cord if not.
'
2. I'd put a Randy guard on it so he would have to leave it alone. Wouldn't want it to end up in his "Lair"


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

Randy guard, eh? I like it!


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## Mip (Sep 16, 2012)

Take Gary's idea with the extension cord and build a manual winding reel for it so you don't have to wind it up over one arm like I do right now. Plug one end into a surge protector mounted on the cart and pull out the other end to the wall outlet. Another thing, beer holder.


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## GaryC (Dec 31, 2008)

Also, if it were mine, I'd probably use it for glue-ups a lot. I'd have a drawer for clamps, rack on one end for bar clamps, and a specific spot on the end for glue.


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## GaryC (Dec 31, 2008)

I'm throwing ideas, Stumpy. Maybe a torsion box top for super solid/flat surface


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## JustJoe (Oct 26, 2012)

If it's going to be used as an assembly bench then:
shorter than a normal bench but not too much.
storage for clamps on the side and some grooves or something so they can be set up on top with one hand. Or built-in clamps that flip up when needed
some flip-out holders for chisels, scrapers, rags, whatever the clean-up tool of choice is.
A holster for a cordless drill or screwdriver for those who like to use screws.
Or a place underneath for the air tank and a hook on the side for those who like Norm (a little glue and we'll just finish it off with some brad nails to hold it in place. pfffft pffft pffft.)
A replacable drawer or box that can be configured to the task at hand, and a small separate storage system for the spare boxes.


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

I actually think I'm going to use one of these. They're a little pricey, but super flat, thick and built in T-Tracks with intersections. That would make it useful for all sorts of stuff.


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## GaryC (Dec 31, 2008)

Well, here's another. I've often thought of building one that could be used as an extension to the table saw that had spots for the blades, wrenches, various …... can't think of the word….throat plates…. you know what I mean.


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## GaryC (Dec 31, 2008)

OK, my last input. I'm probably a cheapskate but, $230 just for the top would stop me


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

No, that doesn't make you a cheapskate. I think it's expensive too. I'm getting a deal on it.


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## GaryC (Dec 31, 2008)

Well, just be sure to keep the Randy guard in it


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## Pimzedd (Jan 22, 2007)

I like Greg's idea at http://lumberjocks.com/projects/19642 You could put the T-tracks in it.

Keep meaning to make me one some day.


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## Dogboy (Apr 1, 2011)

Surge bar. Like clamps one can never have to many outlets. This may sound stupid but my shop cart is heavy…really heavy (layers of 3/4 MDF on top of cabinets from made from thick laminated composite). If I lock the casters it aint going anywhere. Its weight lets me clamp bench top tools to it (dampening vibration). Anyway I have this old fence from a buddy who upgraded his table saws fence to a really long Excalibur model and I have thought about mounting the fence to the cart and putting some of those adjustable shelf brackets on the side. This would allow me to mount different tools on the side and use the fence as a fence (for my spindle sander or router table for example) or as an easily adjustable stop for the bench top tools.


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

I would make one that can double as an outfeed table and have a downdraft sanding surface built in to the top.


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## elduque (Mar 10, 2013)

That Rockler table-top is way TOO nice! Too nice to mess up with dry wall screws. I would frame the table-top so that it would LIFT OFF. A sturdy,rolling cabinet with inter-change-able, lift-off / drop-on table-tops.

1) Rockler T-track table-top- for the well-planned,perfectly-executed jobs.

2) 3/4" plywood table-top - you can drywall-screw a jig onto it, dig a groove in it with a wen allsaw, write on it with a sanford ultra-fine point sharpie,spray paint all over it, and throw it away after you've destroyed it.


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## DamnYankee (May 21, 2011)

As I've got one and have had it for a while,,,

What I like about mine…
-cabinet maker workbench type top, but made of pine. When I'm assembling I'd rather the bench gets dinged not the project. Top has hole for bench dogs
-face vise 
-4" swivel locking wheels
-good working height (for me at least) about an inch short of table saw so I can use as extension and for planing and assembly
-shelves for tools

What I'd like to add or change
-more bench dog holes. The ones I put are frequently too far apart
-better shelves specifically for holding tools and such I am working with at the time. I already have readily available drawers and such for sander, sandpaper, clamps, etc so probably pull out shelf to hold those tools I am using for that particular project or phase
-wired for power. Not really an issue as I have a 50' reel extension hanging from the rafters of my shop. Very handy.


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## Dwain (Nov 1, 2007)

I built my shop table with a few things I strongly suggest:

1) Vacuum build in. 
2) Small air compressor for dust offs, and using nail and pin guns
3) Power strip with an extension cord so I can plug in the five or six hand tools I need (ROS, Jigsaw, Biscuit Jointer, etc)
4) Rather than putting tracks in my table top, I cut several holes in a piece of 1×4, then cut it in half. I connect each half with dowels on either side of the table. With these I can rest eight pipe clamps across the table top without touching the table, and with enough room to crank the handles. I use foam pipe insulation to ensure the black pipe doesn't mar the item I'm clamping. 
5) Finally, I built a tool rest for a couple squares and one that holds two drill drivers. I love having them close at hand when needed. 
6) It's on wheels! Need the mobility.

anyway, just some things that work great for me. I'm really looking forward to seeing what you come up with.


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## redSLED (Mar 21, 2013)

Having thought about this before, I think any practical workshop cart will have to be either more of a (1) TOOL CART (hand tools/power/pneunatic tools), or (2) ASSEMBLY CART (clamps, glues, finishing products, rags). Of course, it can be both - I'm just saying it will likely be more of one than the other, depending on one's workshop setup - as shown below (from some previously googled pics).

BTW, if I were to make a power tool cart, I'd have all the tools plugged into the cart's power bar(s) at all times - and put an end to unplugging/plugging-in/wrapping up cords forever!


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## TheBoxWhisperer (Sep 24, 2012)

I am working on a heavily modified version of this.
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/80953
I ordered the plans form the gentleman online, they arrived via email promptly and the customer service was excellent. I do plan to order the rest of the guys plans too.

Im telling you guys this cart is amazing. Ill be adding my own ideas of course but I could never have designed the basic cart.


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## shawnmasterson (Jan 24, 2013)

maybe I am the odd ball here, but I like my tables a little bigger. Mine is close to the ones pictured, but has a 4'x6' torsion box on top. so in a line I have a PM66 (32"x7'), and then a 4'x7' runoff table, then the assembly table. and they are all in plane with each other. When I am building something I roll out the table, and when it is not needed I push it back, move the jointer and planer and I can park my truck in there when needed. Normally I am against parking in the shop, but I was working out of town (6 10's with a 70 mile drive each way) and I will be darned if I was scraping windows @ 3:30 am. now that I am back in town the truck is in the drive where it belongs.


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

To make the work table really efficient, 3/4 inch holes drilled all over it and a series of 1 1/4 slots routed into the top will let the user use all sorts of clamps to hold "stuff" in place. T tracks would also make the table that much better.

I used some of these on my new drill press table.









I really like this project posted by fellow LJ toddbeaulieu.


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## Momcanfixit (Sep 19, 2012)

In the category of little details, I would have
-small whisk broom hanging from a hook

small magnetic bowl recessed in the top. I bought two such bowls at an auto shop and LOVE them.


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

I would include a space for shop necessities….
band aides, gauze bandages and tourniquets!!!
Oh yeah, and a fridge for cold ones!!!

Seriously….
I would incorporate:
small compressor
Shop-vac
power strip
Dispenser/holder for a roll of paper for glue-ups
Bar/pipe clamp panel clamping ability
Bench/end vise
Dog holes/bench dogs/fold fasts
A swing arm task lighting

I'd leave off the "Randy Guard", as I would like to be able to use it!!!


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## Loco (Aug 11, 2013)

Take the ones you posted and cross breed them with this. Then you have something "mobile" Those little crappy rollers are cute on concrete. What if you want that "mobile bench" outside to install some gutters or windows or do a roof repair ? 
What if you're a farmer or grease monkey with a gravel driveway ? With your "mobile benches" it becomes forklift time.


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## Loco (Aug 11, 2013)

What if you want to put an Allison transmission on it ? Those match stick chicken legs and office chair wheels aint gonna get it ;-)


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## BigYin (Oct 14, 2011)

Drawers top to bottom in front
cuboard with door each side about 2.5 inches deep to mount saws, chissels etc
cuboard with door on the back deep enouth to mount planes each sitting on a shelf
solid hardwood top with a 2 inch overhang and a lift off cover for protection from glue, stains, varnishes.
oversize wheels on base at least 4 inch diameter.


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## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

*Extremely short cord
*
If you put electrical plugs in it keep the wall plug very short. That way you won't have it hanging on the side of the cart. short enough so that it doesn't touch the floor. Then use an extension cord to plug it in. I do that with my mobile miter saw cart and it saves a ton of aggravation of wheeling around a cord. With this method too, you can have a cart with a plug in length of whatever length extension cord you decide to use with it. If you really want a long cord attached tot he cart sometimes you can always put a hook and hang it on the cart plugged in. Either way you can't get rid of the cord. But by not having it attached to the cart it's less bothersome.

*Small clamp rack
*Also, I've got a brace on my workbench that holds a dozen clamps of varying sizes. Saves a lot of walking to the clamp rack when I have my hands full of glue-up and just need a clamp or two.

*Large wheels
*
4" or larger wheels are the only thing that easily roll around the shop and go through wood chips, small wood scraps, and electrical cords without them acting like wheel chocks.

*Knock around possibly replaceable top
*
If it's for gluing and assembly don't put an expensive no ding top on it. Make something that is functional but also something that the glue can be sanded off from, you can spill varnish drips on, and can be dinged up a bit. Working and having to be as careful with the top as you are with the project is not fun. And if possible make it so what with a couple of hours work you can remove the top and replace it with a new one down the road should you someday want to do so.


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## reedwood (Jan 27, 2011)

If we are talking about a rolling project cart and not a moveable, permanent storage space:

I would design it so it drops down off the wheels so it won't move. I like the size you have chosen.

make it the same height as the table saw and other work benches so you can use it and store it as an out feed table.

keep it light weight but brick ******************** house strong so it doesn't rack. 1" thick Formica top, perfectly flat

Rounded c top corners, eased corners/ FF edges, open shelves for quick access - maybe carpeted?

no drawers? it adds weight and I really don't need them - All tools are put back in their normal place.

C top overhangs on side for temporary clamp storage.

Two handles on either side so it can be pulled or lifted in to a truck bed…. ya never know.

A few holes drilled on top for bench dogs and temporary tools like screw drivers and router bits.

a removable dust/chip box on the side?

A second top made for down draft sanding that can be set on top….. a Router table insert in the top?

built in power strip with 12 ft. cord. Scott towel dispenser.

built in fridge/ beer cooler…. maybe.


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## toeachhisown (Eddie) (Mar 30, 2011)

some kind of pull out tray for small tool,like this one i added it to my router table and it comes in handy for holding small bit and things it slide out of the way when not in use like a draw










and a fold out extension to a larger work area ,one that folds away when not in use ia lot of table saws have them and they also can be floded out of the way when not in use



















and a small bar for mixing drinks and a beer tap ,and stereo and printer for printing out plans got to have a computer and dvd player with a few seasons of woodworker shows


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## revwarguy (Mar 12, 2013)

If you are talking 28×40 and are going to have drawers/compartments on two sides, you might consider cutting it into two tables 28×20 that can be locked together either 28×40 or 20×80, allowing for long assemblies. A little clever placement of tracks and underlying reinforcement would allow a 1/4 inch hardboard surface over dadoes in order to reduce the cost of T-tracks, and allow their use in either configuration. All the other ideas could still be incorporated, I think.

Just an idea.


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Dang Stumpy. You asked for ideas and they have poured forth. Lots of good suggestions posted here, many of which we could incorporate into our own work tables.

Looking forward to seeing what you come up with.


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

WOW- Lots of great ideas. Keep 'em coming!


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## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

A fold out honing / sharpening station for quick touch ups.


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## 489tad (Feb 26, 2010)

Stump, if I was to build one it would also serve as an out feed table. I like the dp table top with the slots for clamps or bolts. Over hang top for clamps. Drawers. Easy access for fasteners and glue. A solid panel on the side for Stumpy Nubs stickers.


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## Bluepine38 (Dec 14, 2009)

I guess I am going to sound pretty weird. The shop I like has a big mobile clamp cart, you wheel the cart to
the job if you need a lot of clamps, otherwise carry them over. The air compressor sets in an enclosed room 
with lines run around the perimeter of the shop and a drop line over the left tilt unisaw with attached right
table and eight foot outfeed table with roughly 32 labelled drawers on each side. There are plenty of power
tools in the shop from a Bridgeport milling machine to an old Greenlee mortiser. The movable work bench was
made from an old autopsy table with a 12" diameter center hyraulic leg that raises the table from about 24" 
to 40", it has four 8" lockable swivel wheels on a wide base making it stable and easy to roll around the shop
or outside to deliver a finished product to a vehicle. Unless your shop is huge, I know mine is not, you do not
have to walk more than a few feet to pickup the tool you need from its assigned place. The dedicated work
bench is covered with cardboard for a glue job, excess glue is easy to clean up and a glue starved joint is very
difficult to correct. When we needed to glue up a qsw oak panel 4' x 8 foot, the saw outfeed table was
covered with cardboard and made a nice glue table. Since I am getting to be a certain age, the floor gets further down as the years go by, and we are trying to design a work bench that will lower to about 6" and raise to 40". It would have to be a scissor lift type table, they can be purchased for about $2500, but what
kind of fun would that be. You asked for the ultimate cart, well hear is my idea for mine, not yours. This
table with 2 X 6 strongbacks on top also worked great for gluing and assembling a 9 foot corian countertop
with attached sink, his son brought 4 men from his construction job over and they carried it into the house.


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## Sanding2day (May 6, 2013)

I personally wouldn't throw out the $ for the Rockler table although I certainly agree that it'd be nice I would go the less expensive route of emplacing the T tracks in an equally flat and sturdy top.

Love the idea of including the Shop Vac as this gets wheeled all around in my shop. Not necessairly applicable to your question but would be great to have the cart at an equal height to at very least the table saw for infeed/outfeed use.

Agree to the power requirement to include the reel in line, and devoting a side for clamp storage.

Would like a downdraft table section, couple of bench vices/dog holes. Would be nice to have the router table thrown in the mix/fence on T tracks, and of course if thats included would need bit storage.

And with the addition of an adjustable circular/table saw mount and hand tool storage I'm thinking about 90% of projects could be completed without leaving the cart…

Thanks for the thoughts, look forward to seeing what you end up with, definatley want to make one now


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

I am loving all these ideas!

I do have to say, though- at least in my experience, using it as an out feed table is not going to work. I used to have a bench on the out feed side of the table saw and it was always a huge pain because I'd be working on a project there and would want to rip something and had to clear off the bench to do it!


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## Sanding2day (May 6, 2013)

Good point… I guess that wouldn't work for my setup anyhow as I am limited on space and pull the TS out from the wall only as much as necessary and use the ? Rolling support bar as required but would have it the same height as matching them up just provides greater options.


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

Yes, in a small shop (which I also have) it's always a good idea to keep as many surfaces as possible lower than the table saw anyway so you don't have things in the way when you're trying to saw sheet goods.

I also push my saw against a wall now. But it's a massive saw and when it's pulled out to use it takes up a good amount of the shop. So a roll-around shop-cart/assembly-bench is going to be nice.

I'm working on the design now. Keep the suggestions coming, not just for me but for anyone else thinking of building one!


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## luv2learn (Feb 4, 2012)

OK, Stumpy your shop cart needs to have rollers in the top the same height as your table saw bed. The idea is to use the cart as an in-feed table for the saw. When not in use for that purpose a solid top over the rollers turns the in-feed cart into a solid work surface. I have a section of conveyer rollers mounted to a mobile cart that I use for those purposes but the cart is crude and I use it to throw scrap wood in it. I am looking forward to seeing what you come up with so I can use your ideas to upgrade my cart.


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## Doe (Aug 26, 2010)

I've got stuff where it belongs for the most part. What I want is something to keep the current project bits and tools together without swamping a small workbench and, more importantly, from falling on the floor. It's happened more times than I care to remember and I hate going to the store because I can't find what skittered off the bench. I like Eddie's.

Small enough to wheel around to pick up and put stuff back afterwards. An outlet would be great. I like the shop vac idea as well; my dust collector is great but a pain to shlep around. Now that I think of it, I like the band aid idea; it's always best to avoid gore on the project at hand (it takes too long to sand off). redSLED's beverage holder is interesting-have a drink and get your fiber too. The autopsy table sure is a conversation piece but I can live without it.


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## GaryC (Dec 31, 2008)

Stumpy, by the time you get this thing built, you're going to need a new shop


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

I can't imagine an "ultimate" anything. Before I finished the "ultimate" cart, I would find it obsolete.


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

How about a small refrigerator and/or a coffee maker? You could have a computer screen built in, if you do CAD. How about a built-in radio and a wireless intercom? Make the card like Rodney Dangerfield's golfbag in Caddyshack. I wouldn't put rollers on the top, but on strips of wood that would sit on the top when needed. The strips would be held in place by a simple peg in a hole.
Another thought; How about building a 28×40 cabinet and mount it about 30" above you cart on 4 corner posts. You could have light built-in and swing down tool holders and storage space above. This would have to be tailored to suit your height. A swing-out seat would be handy too. A small built-in trash receptacle. I would rule out a small compressor. Small compressors are not all that small and are of the oilless type,(very noisy).


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

Don't think I haven't thought of all that, Mr. Ron!

And yes, "ultimate" is a relative term, impossible to achieve. But if woodworking magazines can throw it around all the time, I can too.


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

Incorporate a shop vac in your cart with a floor sweep mounted on one end. As you push the cart,(it's on casters, right?)., the floor sweep will vacuum the mess you made. Put a handle on the other end of the cart. Your cart will look like a Good Humour ice cream cart. I would put an auxilary top on it that slips into sockets on the cart. This would serve the purpose of having a higher work surface to work on when needed.
Oh and I forget, you need an adjustable task light when you are in a place in the shop where the light is not just right. If you have drawers (not too many), compartmentalize them so small tools, rulers, pencils, etc don't get shoved into the back of the drawer as you move the cart around. Use casters that have a brake on both the wheel and the swivel. Some of these ideas may sound dumb, but you asked for ideas and that's what your're going to get.


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## TedW (May 6, 2012)

Lot's of great ideas here but I got tired of reading so maybe I missed it… battery charger


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

I think I'd go for a dead flat top…. Probably doubled up MDF with laminate on top….. this gives you a true reference plane and would be easy to remove glue messes.

I wouldn't give up a flat smooth top for the T-tracks… I think that would work better for a power hand tool use bench.


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## BigYin (Oct 14, 2011)

since people are talking bout outfeed tables how bout this
(picture from internet)

http://i668.photobucket.com/albums/vv47/bigyin1961/other%20peoples%20pictures/RollAroundShopCart_zpsa94c3d24.jpg[/IMG][/URL[/URL]]


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## Jimbo817 (Aug 3, 2013)

Wow! I want one of these!

How about some cubbyholes with pullout bins for all your fasteners. I know when I'm working on a project I seem to never have the right screw, it's always on the other end of the shop.

Also, a roll of Kraft paper on one end that you can pull across your work surface. When it gets dirty, you just pull out more and cut it off, just like on a box of waxed paper.


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## SvenPHX (Jul 26, 2013)

Love the sacrificial top idea. I've been thinking about ways to add clamp downs to the top without drilling lots of holes and spending too many dollars on Festool clamps. Having a sacrificial top means I can drywall screw blocks to the top and not worry. For example, if I'm laminating somethings together I could use some strips across the lamination and screw those to the top. Lots of ideas why a throw away/easily reproducible top would be a useful. For an added challenge, no metal fasteners in the top at all.

I'd like to be able to store all my smaller wood working tools in one spot. Clamps, squares, pencils, sharpies, skilsaw blades, circular/table saw blades, drill bits, chuck keys, hole saws, straight edges, router bits, sand paper, tape, screws, etc. It's needs to be mobile, so lockable (or retractable) casters. The same height as my table saw so I can use it as an outfeed table. Maybe a screw/clamp on miter saw station.

-Steve


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

Cart build starts today! I'm excited!


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

How many iterations will it go through???

My guess: 5.5


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## Lynden (Oct 13, 2009)

I haven't read all of the replies, but has anyone suggested a flip-up support on the back side of the cart for sheet goods. The cart could then be used to move plywood around the shop and also as an infeed table for ripping plywood on the table saw.

http://americanwoodworker.com/blogs/techniques/archive/2010/01/19/working-alone-with-plywood.aspx


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## tomclark (Feb 16, 2010)

I needed an extension for my large assembly table, so I built this one last month.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

Here is a cart that was designed to fit under the wing of my tablesaw. It features storage and a downdraft sanding area. It also works well as an assembly table. I have found it one of the most used features of my shop. 
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/39656


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

Wow- those are some nice looking carts!

Mine is almost done. I tried to pack as many features into it as possible, but now I am already thinking of other stuff that it would have been nice to include. I suppose that's just the way it goes with these things…


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## GaryC (Dec 31, 2008)

That looks more like an engineers office than a wood shop…. wow


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

Either someone got a good deal on a ton of oak filing cabinets or someone got a good deal on a ton of oak!


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## tomclark (Feb 16, 2010)

Either that or someone simply built his own shop cabinets using plain old oak plywood. Even the face frames are oak plywood. Plenty fancy enough for shop cabinets.


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## BigWoody (May 6, 2017)

How about adding a Ron Paulk top?


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## pontic (Sep 25, 2016)

MOBILE every one! It needs the best wheel system one can find and the best wheel lock as well. Otherwise it's a piece of shop furniture.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

I tried out a combo move around DIY "cart" before. Had air compressor, fold out wings for cutting 4'x8' plywood sheets, kreg jig storage, glue/paint/chemical storage, paper, torsion box top for assembly, 4" wheels..etc. It's gone now as my needs have changed (salvaged parts for other projects). It was a BEAST to move around even on 4" wheels. I have learned, such carts do not exist for long in my shop as times change, things get in the way, a better idea, etc. Or maybe because I'm still a novice at wood working, I'm learning as I go which means change.


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## Desert_Woodworker (Jan 28, 2015)

> MOBILE every one! It needs the best wheel system one can find and the best wheel lock as well. Otherwise it s a piece of shop furniture.
> 
> - pontic


Only the best or an upgraded caster will make a worl of difference. I purchase mine through Luna http://www.lunacastertruck.com/ They will spend time with you to get the correct caster that you are looking for.


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## pontic (Sep 25, 2016)

Checked out that site DW ant Lunacaster is an awesome source. Thanks for the share.


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