# Ironing laser prints onto wood



## Maclegno (Jan 6, 2010)

I read somewhere (possibly here) that it is possible to IRON a pattern printed by a laser printer onto another surface. I have tried this but with limited success. Is there a secret I'm missing? Help please,
Gerard.


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

Your limited success is more success than I've had. 
Here's and article I just pulled up. Transfer
If you use it, Tell us how it works,


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

I don't work with iron. I work with wood.


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

hello Gerard good to see you again

but I´m sorry I can´t help you here when it comes to laserprint
but if you use an inkprinter it shuold be quet easy after what I have heard
and I believe that after all you can´t send a letter thats printet with an inkprinter
out in the rain, yes you can do it but 20 min later no letter…lol

take care
Dennis


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## Gregn (Mar 26, 2010)

I have heard of this done on a photo copying machine but not from a laser printer. Something about how the ink is applied that makes it work with heat from a photo copying machine. Have you maybe tried using damp cloth that was wrung out well and place on top of the pattern and then the iron applied? Just a thought.


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## Maclegno (Jan 6, 2010)

many thanks to you all, especially Gene for his link. I didn't know what XYLENE was but guessed it might be a solvent I use called NITRO, anyway it worked extremely well. I tried it with a line drawing of a Celtic pattern onto Walnut, which is what i really need it for.
My only problem now is how to reverse Writing ( I also do inlays of Calligraphy) before transferring it to wood.
Any ideas?
Gerard


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## randi (Sep 5, 2010)

Maclegno: You can use a photo editing program to reverse your image, print it out and then the transfer should be correct (i think haha) or you could take a photo of your desired image in a mirror, then print it out on a laser printer or copy it on an anolog copier….both use essentially the same processes depositing toner onto paper.

Gregn: Most modern copiers, and laser printers use a xerographic process to deposit toner onto paper that is then fused onto it with heat and pressure, so in theory they both should be able to be taken off with the same methods…depending on the toner, and the quality of the paper and the methods involved as well as the smoothness of the application surface your results might not be consistent due to issues with contact between materials.

All be careful with xylene, or any other solvent, proper respirator, goggles, gloves etc are a must…that stuff is NASTY.


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## Dark_Lightning (Nov 20, 2009)

You can do reverse writing with a Microsoft product called VISIO. The Standard version cost me $100 a few years ago. You have access to most of the fonts available in any MS product. I upgraded to the Professional version in order to make CNC-ready drawings, but that's $1000, and you wouldn't need it, methinks. Since you are in Italy, it may be export- controlled by the US Gov., I dunno. Check it out. At least I KNOW it will do what you want.

I've some metal etching texts that talk about ironing laser printer/copier images onto metal. I'm not sure where your problem lies (I haven't tried it yet), but maybe it's the temperature you are using. Maybe someone here is a printer guru and can tell you what the fuser temperature is in the laser printer. I expect it's going to be one HOT clothes iron.


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## Mogebier (Feb 4, 2010)

I have tried different methods like the ones in the link Gene posted. Those are not what you are looking for. All those do is use a medium to capture the ink, then you wash off the paper and you have the ink left trapped in the medium - acrylic etc. So you end up with a piece of plastic with a crummy image in it.
If you are looking to actually transfer an image directly to wood, I have never heard of a way using only paper. The way I have done it is using the T-Shirt transfer material. You run that through your printer, then iron it to wood instead of to a shirt. It works, and you don't need a laser printer to do it. But you end up with a lot of extra material stuck on the wood unless you cut away all the unwanted areas before ironing.
You will have to do a lot of testing to find the temperature it works at, and to figure out if you need to moisten the wood first etc.


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## Gregn (Mar 26, 2010)

Thanks for the info Randi, It had been along time ago I heard about using a copying machine for transferring patterns.


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## mrg (Mar 10, 2010)

Maclengo,
In your printer settings you should be able to mirror image or reverse print your image.


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

I don't use an iron or heat to transfer laser images to wood … I use lacquer thinner. I just place the printed side down on the wood and dribble on some lacquer thinner. Doesn't take much, just spread it around and use a J-roller to spread it around.


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## Maggiepic (Aug 26, 2010)

For reversing the image, in my HP print settings, you click on the finishing tab and then check the box for mirror image.


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## swirt (Apr 6, 2010)

TheDane, how long do yo leave the paper on the wood before you peel it off? Is it just roll it down and peel it back off?


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## swirt (Apr 6, 2010)

I found this transfer iron online. Have no idea how well it works
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/EGTOOL.html


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

swirt-Just a few seconds … if you leave it on too long (or use too much thinner) it bleeds and the image loses some of its definition. I haven't used this for anything with lettering (the image reverses), but it is great for making templates and scrolling designs.


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## Maclegno (Jan 6, 2010)

I finally figured how to reverse an image:-
- find it on disc
- right button mouse select "open with PAINT" 
- in PAINT chose menu at top saying something like "Image" (my menus are all in italian)
- click on "reverse" or similar
- click on "reverse horizontal" or similar
- Save as…
Voila!
Gerard

PS
I couldn't find any such feature on my HP printer settings! (HP Laser Jet 1020)

PPS
MRG, my "nom de Bois" is MACLEGNO
MAC is a Gaelic prefix meaning "Son of.." and LEGNO is Italian for WOOD


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## Tim_456 (Jul 22, 2008)

The ink in a laser printer is heat activated so an iron will activate it. I've had the best luck by printing on a sheet of plastic as used for an overhead projection slide show. I've transferred it to copper (for pc boards) and to wood with no issues. The key is that the plastic gives up the ink better than paper.


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## tierraverde (Dec 1, 2009)

If anyone is still watching this topic, I have found the answer.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/52249


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

thank´s Jim I´ll look at it

Dennis


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## Kyzach (Jan 18, 2015)

Here's a really cheap and effective way to transfer images onto wood.

http://jayscustomcreations.com/2013/12/inexpensively-brand-your-woodworking/

Jay also has a video of it:






I like his approach because it doesn't require solvents or glues like other approaches (not that those are bad, I just like to keep it as simple as possible).

I tried this with a regular iron, and it works. But it was clear to me I needed more heat for a good image.


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## Ghidrah (Jan 20, 2015)

I don't think a laser printer will work but an inkjet will. Wifey used to make transfers all the time when she was a girl scout leader. I haven't tried the tech below but the video looks pretty cool.






Here's the 1st one I saw about a month ago on another site


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## DrDirt (Feb 26, 2008)

> I don t think a laser printer will work but an inkjet will. Wifey used to make transfers all the time when she was a girl scout leader. I haven t tried the tech below but the video looks pretty cool.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Agree - 
Like the Steve Ramsey technique best, because there isn't the glue layer transferred to the surface. Not sore how that will look under a glossy finish, usually white glue is always a bit milky colored when dry.


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## Horus (Apr 23, 2019)

I tranfer images frequently when making board games. This technique requires laser prints. as the toner is heat actvated. This should also worke with colored laser prints. There are a couple of things to keep in mind/consider.
1. the wood must be dead flat. if using a clothes iron for a heat source, the sole of the iron will be flat so any transfer will only hit the high spots (like a hand plane does). Some suggest putting a cloth between paper an tron to account for minor variances, this also can help guard against scorching the wood.
2. do your final sanding (including wetting/sanding cycle) before image transfer or you'll end with a rough surface.
3. The heat from the iron will melt your glue joints if you are not very careful. Even when paying close attention. I've had joints develop gaps. See attached image - this shows some separation in the glue up before I switched to the wood burner technique.
4. when applying heat to one side of the wood, you'll see a tendency for the wood to cup. This won't come out by ironing the other side. When this happens to me, I clamp the piece down flat using cauls and heat it back up with a heat gun. That usually brings it back to flat.
5. To get away from joint separation issues, I have gone to tracing the pattern in pencil on the back of the paper (tape paper to a window for light to shine through). Then I apply the heat very specifically to only where the graphics are, using a wide tip on a wood burning pen. You can also use a soldering iron on a low setting. Because the woodburning tip is much smaller that the sole of an iron,it gets into low spots better.

An alternative is to find a local reprographics shop that can print directly onto the wood. I did this for a cribbage board and it worked great/perfectly. cost was about $10. I think I have that project posted.

Hope this helps.


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