# Need some finishing advice for Dutch tool chest



## SJD312 (Jan 15, 2014)

As my first "real" project, I'm building a Dutch tool chest, a la Christopher Schwarz. As you can see from the pics, the parts are complete and I'm ready for assembly and finishing (and I still have to build the tool holders and dividers inside.

Pretty psyched to have gotten this far, especially since I did it 95% with hand tools. I couldn't figure out how to rip the 30 degree angle on the front and back of the top with a handsaw, so I broke down and used my circ saw for that. Also didn't have the tools to pull off the tongue and groove for the breadboard, so I used a doweling jig and power drill. Otherwise… all by hand, including the dovetailed bottom and dados for the shelf.

So… looking for advice, votes on how to finish it. "Historically accurate" black/blue milk paint, as Schwarz did, or stain? It's home center pine, except for the breadboard ends, which are cedar. (odd choice, I know… but it's what I had handy, and frankly I really didn't expect it to work out and didnt' want to waste good wood. The lock mechanism on the inside of the panel is a nice little piece of mahogany I had in the scrap pile.

Going to finish the inside with boiled linseed oil. What do you think about the outside?

Here's the Woodwright Shop episode I learned about the chest.


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## SJD312 (Jan 15, 2014)

ps… the carcasse is test assembled with a few brads. I will use period appropriate fasteners and hardware after finishing.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Steve, I'd only suggest no heavy-handed stain for your BORG pine. The milk-paint solution is a good one, and you'll learn a bit if it's your first time with the stuff. It's a good look overall, and appropriate as you said.

All that stated, of course, you do what makes you happy. Looks like a great build thusfar, too!


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## ClintSearl (Dec 8, 2011)

You might as well ruin it all the way and smear BLO on the outside, too.


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## SJD312 (Jan 15, 2014)

Went with the General Finishes milk paint: 1 part paint to 1.5 water. Clint, thanks for the heads up on the BLO. I read your blog post after seeing your comment. I had never used it, but one of the TV wood dudes was raving about it, so I thought I'd give it a try. Tried it on a test board and it turned a zombie-ish yellow/orange.


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## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

^That Clint guy like to drop little nuggets of pessimism throughout the site

Outstanding build there Steve. The milk paint looks terrific. I don't have any experience with that stuff but you guys are getting me interested.


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## SJD312 (Jan 15, 2014)

Thanks BigRed. I chose to take his comment as stern encouragement. Really appreciate the compliment. Kind of in love with the GF milk paint, even though I don't think purists would count this as real milk paint. I used it uncut on a dumpster table I redid and it came out deep, rich and even. Really easy to work. For this I thinned it to get more of a period appropriate look. Can't decide if I should use poly or wax over it. Have a couple of test boards curing now.


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## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

Test boards are the best route to arrive at a finish. Poly would certainly be more durable. If a wipe on satin poly (shop made or not) looks good, you could carry that finish over into the interior. Poly yellows pine a little, but not bad. If left alone, pine will yellow on its own anyway.


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## Tim457 (Jan 11, 2013)

Steve BLO is traditional, but you wouldn't have wanted it on the inside of your tool chest anyway. In an enclosed space like that it can apparently get pretty stinky when you have that much of it. Kind of goes rancid eventually or something.


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

Steve, your chest looks very good, good job


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