# Unisaw 1963



## RCT (Feb 17, 2008)

*She Spins on her own*

See http://lumberjocks.com/RCT/blog/31773 For the real first entry to this blog I cannot get it to move?

She Spins on her own,









set up for 220V. I needed to replace some wire to get her going.The switch box is over built but the switch is cheep and I could not believe that they used aluminum from the plug to the windings.


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## exelectrician (Oct 3, 2011)

RCT said:


> *She Spins on her own*
> 
> See http://lumberjocks.com/RCT/blog/31773 For the real first entry to this blog I cannot get it to move?
> 
> ...


I can help, but I need more photos of where each wire goes also the "she spins on her own" statement does that mean the motor runs but makes noise? or just spins easily by hand? Do you want to change the voltage? like I said show me detailed photos of each wire and I will tell you where to connect every wire, okay?


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## RCT (Feb 17, 2008)

RCT said:


> *She Spins on her own*
> 
> See http://lumberjocks.com/RCT/blog/31773 For the real first entry to this blog I cannot get it to move?
> 
> ...


exelectrician
Thanks for the offer but the motor is working well. I had to replace the wire down to the coils as the insulation was in bad shape and the wire was aluminum. Do you know about the time line of this. I have heard that the unisaw had copper the whole way. This seems to be from the factory just interested in when Delta changed and how long they used aluminum. If you look at how this saw looked you'll understand my joy at "She Spins on her own" 
Thanks again for the offer May need it later.
RCT


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## exelectrician (Oct 3, 2011)

RCT said:


> *She Spins on her own*
> 
> See http://lumberjocks.com/RCT/blog/31773 For the real first entry to this blog I cannot get it to move?
> 
> ...


Hi RCT, Aytime you need (or any one else) for that matter need help with motor connections, I am willing to put my experience forward.


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## cedarmannan (Nov 23, 2012)

RCT said:


> *She Spins on her own*
> 
> See http://lumberjocks.com/RCT/blog/31773 For the real first entry to this blog I cannot get it to move?
> 
> ...


Hello Exelectrician. I just got a 1963 unisaw and i have yet to power it up. the guy i got it from said it is wired for 220v single phase. i took the switch cover off and see a green white and black wire. which i associate with 120v. i can't easily get to the J-box on the motor to see what wires go to what in there, but i know that coming from the motor to the switch is green white and black. here are some pic's of the plate on the motor. i can't make out the 220v wiring vrs the 120v wiring…. any info would be supper great!

thanks!








!


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## RCT (Feb 17, 2008)

*Ready for Paint*

Here are some pics of the saw after days of hand wire brushing, power wire brushing, hand and power sanding, scotch bright cleaning and degreasing. With a shot of the base for a reminder of how bad it was. I have not gotten up the gusto to start working on the base yet. So far I have determined that the switch will need to be replaced and repositioned, the motor and arbor bearings amazingly seem in good shape no strange sounds or wobbles. The hand-wheel is just in bad shape this is how it looks after 3 days in the anti rust liquid. I'll be spending some time with it today


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## RedMac (Aug 20, 2011)

RCT said:


> *Ready for Paint*
> 
> Here are some pics of the saw after days of hand wire brushing, power wire brushing, hand and power sanding, scotch bright cleaning and degreasing. With a shot of the base for a reminder of how bad it was. I have not gotten up the gusto to start working on the base yet. So far I have determined that the switch will need to be replaced and repositioned, the motor and arbor bearings amazingly seem in good shape no strange sounds or wobbles. The hand-wheel is just in bad shape this is how it looks after 3 days in the anti rust liquid. I'll be spending some time with it today


RCT - looking good.

What are you using and how are you applying paint? I am restoring an older jointer and I am trying to understand my options for finishes.

Thanks and good luck.


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## WoodenUnion (Aug 6, 2012)

RCT said:


> *Ready for Paint*
> 
> Here are some pics of the saw after days of hand wire brushing, power wire brushing, hand and power sanding, scotch bright cleaning and degreasing. With a shot of the base for a reminder of how bad it was. I have not gotten up the gusto to start working on the base yet. So far I have determined that the switch will need to be replaced and repositioned, the motor and arbor bearings amazingly seem in good shape no strange sounds or wobbles. The hand-wheel is just in bad shape this is how it looks after 3 days in the anti rust liquid. I'll be spending some time with it today


I'm also in the middle of a jointer refurb, and I'm almost ready for paint. I'd be curious to know your finishing plans.


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## MedicKen (Dec 2, 2008)

RCT said:


> *Ready for Paint*
> 
> Here are some pics of the saw after days of hand wire brushing, power wire brushing, hand and power sanding, scotch bright cleaning and degreasing. With a shot of the base for a reminder of how bad it was. I have not gotten up the gusto to start working on the base yet. So far I have determined that the switch will need to be replaced and repositioned, the motor and arbor bearings amazingly seem in good shape no strange sounds or wobbles. The hand-wheel is just in bad shape this is how it looks after 3 days in the anti rust liquid. I'll be spending some time with it today


RedMac…...I have been using the Sherwin Williams direct to metal paint. Oil based with a very high solids and nice industrial paint. Application can be either brush/roller or spray. I opted to spray with an HVLP system and the results are very good.

If you want a close match to the original Delta color the Rustoleum smoke grey in rattle cans is nice. The only problem with the rattle can is the coverage. The spray cans give a very light coat and multiple coats are needed for adequate protection. I have used both but prefer the Sherwin Williams.


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## RCT (Feb 17, 2008)

RCT said:


> *Ready for Paint*
> 
> Here are some pics of the saw after days of hand wire brushing, power wire brushing, hand and power sanding, scotch bright cleaning and degreasing. With a shot of the base for a reminder of how bad it was. I have not gotten up the gusto to start working on the base yet. So far I have determined that the switch will need to be replaced and repositioned, the motor and arbor bearings amazingly seem in good shape no strange sounds or wobbles. The hand-wheel is just in bad shape this is how it looks after 3 days in the anti rust liquid. I'll be spending some time with it today


Well I did not get to the prep work today. Worked on the other saw's motor. I will be using spray cans but I have to mask off all of the clear metal areas first. I'm going to be using Rustoleum for color but not delta grey. I worked on Navy ships for to long to still appreciate grey.


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## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

RCT said:


> *Ready for Paint*
> 
> Here are some pics of the saw after days of hand wire brushing, power wire brushing, hand and power sanding, scotch bright cleaning and degreasing. With a shot of the base for a reminder of how bad it was. I have not gotten up the gusto to start working on the base yet. So far I have determined that the switch will need to be replaced and repositioned, the motor and arbor bearings amazingly seem in good shape no strange sounds or wobbles. The hand-wheel is just in bad shape this is how it looks after 3 days in the anti rust liquid. I'll be spending some time with it today


Keep us up to date please on your progress


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## RCT (Feb 17, 2008)

*White parts*

Trying to decide a color scheme My girl said "where is the saw from?" I said "the USA" She said "and what color's are those" Ah duh. So internal parts white with red stripes.

Here are some pics of prep.




































Here are some shots that surprised me, the castings were not cleaned up
this is the kind of thing that we would have accused the Japaneses of doing.



















And then white parts stripes later


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## RCT (Feb 17, 2008)

*Colors + *

Here are some new pics
The body of the saw is coated with epoxy made for floors, blue to fit USA color scheme. 

















making a bottom plate with a slice through the center for clean out.









Angling the dust plate to the front of saw don't want to cut another hole "week iron" 









I will be making the sawdust port go around under the motor cover.
























Using vinyl from old kitchen flooring to make a smooth path for the sawdust.
And now the flag trunnion pics


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

RCT said:


> *Colors + *
> 
> Here are some new pics
> The body of the saw is coated with epoxy made for floors, blue to fit USA color scheme.
> ...


Thats a cool color!


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## FirehouseWoodworking (Jun 9, 2009)

RCT said:


> *Colors + *
> 
> Here are some new pics
> The body of the saw is coated with epoxy made for floors, blue to fit USA color scheme.
> ...


Can't wait to see how this movie ends! Cool!

Cheers!


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## whitebeast88 (May 27, 2012)

RCT said:


> *Colors + *
> 
> Here are some new pics
> The body of the saw is coated with epoxy made for floors, blue to fit USA color scheme.
> ...


great job and beautiful colors.


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## doordude (Mar 26, 2010)

RCT said:


> *Colors + *
> 
> Here are some new pics
> The body of the saw is coated with epoxy made for floors, blue to fit USA color scheme.
> ...


way to go USA!


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## studie (Oct 14, 2009)

RCT said:


> *Colors + *
> 
> Here are some new pics
> The body of the saw is coated with epoxy made for floors, blue to fit USA color scheme.
> ...


Very nice, hope to restore my 1968 powermatic 66 as well as yours.


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## RCT (Feb 17, 2008)

*dust collection tale of woe*

Started feeling good about how this saw was coming together. Then I started working on the way to get the dust collection worked out. Not wanting to cut into the side or back of the cabinet do to the shape it was in. I thought I would use the dust clean-out door on the front. I cut up the dust collector I had built a few years ago as an experiment. After taking the measurements off of the saw I started cutting the PVC. This has taken way more time than I would have guessed. I guess the engineer in me refuses to deviate from the first concept but I'm willing to alter the design on the fly. Anyway the pics should tell the story.

Looks way too large but my feet fit under it at a normal distance for cutting. 









View from inside the saw

















The slope of the ID of the PVC will leave a small area that is lower then the port so the turbulence is reduced--
The time between the pic above and the one below was where the time was spent. once I had the PVC shaped
I closed the ends and found I had no way to install it. So I had to make the door so I could reach in to tighten the screws. It was the right mistake now I have a easier way to clean up the dust if need be.


















I had to make the flanges for the top and bottom as well as one for the end to hold the port in place.

















I'm using and old colonial hinge as a latch for the door it was just right and just sitting in the shop,








This last pic is a view of the outlet before I mount the gate to it and it will be hard to see








I will have more pics of the installed and painted dust collection port in the next day or two.
Thanks for looking and all comments are welcome


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

RCT said:


> *dust collection tale of woe*
> 
> Started feeling good about how this saw was coming together. Then I started working on the way to get the dust collection worked out. Not wanting to cut into the side or back of the cabinet do to the shape it was in. I thought I would use the dust clean-out door on the front. I cut up the dust collector I had built a few years ago as an experiment. After taking the measurements off of the saw I started cutting the PVC. This has taken way more time than I would have guessed. I guess the engineer in me refuses to deviate from the first concept but I'm willing to alter the design on the fly. Anyway the pics should tell the story.
> 
> ...


had to make a similar one for my uni too
youes is real 'futuro' looking










funny they don't make a dust catcher for this saw


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## Brad_Nailor (Jul 26, 2007)

RCT said:


> *dust collection tale of woe*
> 
> Started feeling good about how this saw was coming together. Then I started working on the way to get the dust collection worked out. Not wanting to cut into the side or back of the cabinet do to the shape it was in. I thought I would use the dust clean-out door on the front. I cut up the dust collector I had built a few years ago as an experiment. After taking the measurements off of the saw I started cutting the PVC. This has taken way more time than I would have guessed. I guess the engineer in me refuses to deviate from the first concept but I'm willing to alter the design on the fly. Anyway the pics should tell the story.
> 
> ...


I have a 2001 Unisaw..all I did was buy a 4" dust collection fitting at Woodcraft and mount it to a 1/4" plywood plate..and screw that to the saw..works perfect…you can see it here


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## RCT (Feb 17, 2008)

RCT said:


> *dust collection tale of woe*
> 
> Started feeling good about how this saw was coming together. Then I started working on the way to get the dust collection worked out. Not wanting to cut into the side or back of the cabinet do to the shape it was in. I thought I would use the dust clean-out door on the front. I cut up the dust collector I had built a few years ago as an experiment. After taking the measurements off of the saw I started cutting the PVC. This has taken way more time than I would have guessed. I guess the engineer in me refuses to deviate from the first concept but I'm willing to alter the design on the fly. Anyway the pics should tell the story.
> 
> ...


Brad_Nallor - I guess the 2001 Unisaw is set up for at least some sort of dust collection from the factory. The pic on your Blog makes it look like you bolted the port right to the side of the saw under the motor cover, So there is a dust access port at that point on the 2001 Uni? 
As I said above this 1963 saw was in real bad shape and I did not want to weaken the sides of the cabinet any more. So the door that was there in '63 is what I had to use.


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## RCT (Feb 17, 2008)

*update on tablesaw*

been a while had to rebuild my clothes dryer then there was Sandy but today got some things done. Installation of the dust collection port and hand wheels, pics below

dust collection port














































Hand wheels Outside edges Coated with soft tool handle covering.


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## Dwain (Nov 1, 2007)

RCT said:


> *update on tablesaw*
> 
> been a while had to rebuild my clothes dryer then there was Sandy but today got some things done. Installation of the dust collection port and hand wheels, pics below
> 
> ...


Wow. All I can say. Wow.


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## RCT (Feb 17, 2008)

*Red White Blue Motor*

I forgot to post these pics of the motor after putting it back together and painting it.


















Oh and the Rip fence


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## Bogeyguy (Sep 26, 2012)

RCT said:


> *Red White Blue Motor*
> 
> I forgot to post these pics of the motor after putting it back together and painting it.
> 
> ...


You seem to have a lot of spare time my friend.????


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## Dwain (Nov 1, 2007)

RCT said:


> *Red White Blue Motor*
> 
> I forgot to post these pics of the motor after putting it back together and painting it.
> 
> ...


A lot of patriotism as well.


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

RCT said:


> *Red White Blue Motor*
> 
> I forgot to post these pics of the motor after putting it back together and painting it.
> 
> ...


RCT, When I served in the USAF they taught us to never re-paint an electric motor. This can supposedly cause overheating. I have never tested this but thought If I didn't paint I didn't need to test. Patriotic saw you have here.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

RCT said:


> *Red White Blue Motor*
> 
> I forgot to post these pics of the motor after putting it back together and painting it.
> 
> ...


Looks, good


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## RCT (Feb 17, 2008)

RCT said:


> *Red White Blue Motor*
> 
> I forgot to post these pics of the motor after putting it back together and painting it.
> 
> ...


Grandpa
When I was in the USAF I heard the same thing. The Engineers in the USAF's tend to think that the most impotent aspect of design is weight. Extra paint weighs more. Working for the US Navy I found the insulation value from extra paint can affect heat transfer but not vary much and on this motor the old paint was removed before the new paint went on. Of course most of the paint was already gone. The paint's insulation is much less then the sawdust build-up and I have done what I can to reduce that. thanks for the input.
What did you do for the Air force?
I was a Flight Engineer on the C5 Galaxy, after cure chef, an base supply


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

RCT said:


> *Red White Blue Motor*
> 
> I forgot to post these pics of the motor after putting it back together and painting it.
> 
> ...


I was a Crew Chief or Pad Chief as some called us, in a Titan II ICBM system.


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