# Work(shop) in Progress



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*The Workbench*

So like every other woodworker, I take pride in my shop, and always aspire to have the most convenient, flowing, accessible, productive, efficient, fun, and good looking setup I can get.

This is the story of my shop.

So one thing that I wanted for a while, but never really got the chance to setup, nor the place, was a workbench. for the longest time I've been mostly assembling on the floor, and working on foldable plastic sawhorses that have a work surface that flips on top - these work great , they are super portable, but really lack the ability to hold anything secure enough while expressing force on the piece (sawing, planning, sanding, etc) - sure they work, but it's that "If only I had a sturdier work surface" kind of thought.

So I've seen the Garrett-Wade foldable workbench that folds down to about 10" when not in use, and I was sold on the idea. I never really planned on spending $500 on a workbench, and more than that - I always wanted to build it myself, just like everything else around me. I began designing the workbench with the idea of using 2 panels of 3/4" MDF on top of one another for stability,weight, and flatness… and started putting it all together using Sketchup.

about a month ago Rockler came out with their own foldable workbench - exactly the same design, and probably from the same manufacture as the Garrett-Wade one - or it could be just me, but they look exactly the same. so apparently the concept was getting more popular. I just need to actually make it.

last week I went with my wife to a donation center where they had this 2" thick solid maple top 72"x24" - was that a special custom order for ME of what? so I quickly took it for $25 before anyone else could even say "mine". I was planning to cut off about 12" off of it's length to use as the faces for the vise which would give me even color, and identical material, and still keep me at 60" for length which is more then enough for what I need.

the final design is this:









The top folds down against the wall, and takes less then 4" depth which is just perfect as I can fit my cat - AND open the door to get out of it.

right now the top is all installed on the wall, and you can see that in my workshop page, all I need now is a set of legs that will support it when it's in the horizontal position - I already used it with temporary support, and it works like a charm.


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## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *The Workbench*
> 
> So like every other woodworker, I take pride in my shop, and always aspire to have the most convenient, flowing, accessible, productive, efficient, fun, and good looking setup I can get.
> 
> ...


Looks good so far. Those leg supports need to be heavy if you plan to do any chopping and or serious planing to flatten boards. I found mine were to flimsy and I had to beef them up a bit.

Good luck with the project,


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## Paddyhere (Feb 9, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *The Workbench*
> 
> So like every other woodworker, I take pride in my shop, and always aspire to have the most convenient, flowing, accessible, productive, efficient, fun, and good looking setup I can get.
> 
> ...


Are you going to ad bracing legs on the front or simply attach it to the wall? I would assume it's the former, as to do otherwise would leave your vise without adequate stability.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *The Workbench*
> 
> So like every other woodworker, I take pride in my shop, and always aspire to have the most convenient, flowing, accessible, productive, efficient, fun, and good looking setup I can get.
> 
> ...


sorry for the delay - I was away.

this workbench was mounted/bolted to the wall for stability and was resting on a couple of sawhorses to keep it horizontal. it was never really used extensively as we moved out of that location shortly after putting this together but for what its worth it was holding up pretty well for light/medium work.


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## rjoakwood (Jun 23, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *The Workbench*
> 
> So like every other woodworker, I take pride in my shop, and always aspire to have the most convenient, flowing, accessible, productive, efficient, fun, and good looking setup I can get.
> 
> ...


Simple, functional and fuss free - perfect!


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*Workbench: The TOP*

72"x24" 1-3/4" thick Top = $25
Groz vise = $40
Misc fasteners and hardware = $10
Building your own workbench that actually fits in a tight space that has no space for a workbench = PRICELESS


















Now I just need to use scrap wood, and design legs to hold the workbench horizontally… I made it extra tall, cause every other bench I work on I get back pains from having to bend too much.

In the mean time, I just improvise and put something under to hold it straight just so that I can work on it as I have prioritized project that need to be done before I can spend the time constructing those legs…


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## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Workbench: The TOP*
> 
> 72"x24" 1-3/4" thick Top = $25
> Groz vise = $40
> ...


Nice bench! It must be a pain having to remove everything all the time though.


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Workbench: The TOP*
> 
> 72"x24" 1-3/4" thick Top = $25
> Groz vise = $40
> ...


This is a nice bench. It does save space.

Thanks for the post.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Workbench: The TOP*
> 
> 72"x24" 1-3/4" thick Top = $25
> Groz vise = $40
> ...


GaryK: it is a pain, every woodworking session is comprised of 3 phases … bringing everything in, actual woodworking, and cleaning + putting everything away… it's a pain in he ^$$ but if you are trying to rationalize it - cleaning up is a good thing, and 'really' has to be done anyways… so it's not MUCH of an overhead… or at least that thought makes it easier for me to do it over and over again…hehe

you do what you've gotta do, with what you've got - or you don't do it at all


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## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Workbench: The TOP*
> 
> 72"x24" 1-3/4" thick Top = $25
> Groz vise = $40
> ...


Looking good. I like it.

Now maybe a wall mounted cabinet next to the bench to store stuff so it is quicker to pack/unpack. Workshop projects are a good way of testing and improving your skill set.

Steve


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Workbench: The TOP*
> 
> 72"x24" 1-3/4" thick Top = $25
> Groz vise = $40
> ...


*SPalm:* Thanx for the idea  HA. It is already on the wall - the adjacent wall! the inside of it is still under design to maximize and organize it the best I can… I'll have that blogged when it deserves to be recognized as such, but in the mean time - here is a sample:


















The slots on the inside of the cabinet door are keyslots, and I can slide 1/4" #10 bolts in them and hang anything anyway I want to … will include more details photos when the time comes to present this in whole…


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## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Workbench: The TOP*
> 
> 72"x24" 1-3/4" thick Top = $25
> Groz vise = $40
> ...


Sweet. You one clever guy!


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## Grumpy (Nov 9, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Workbench: The TOP*
> 
> 72"x24" 1-3/4" thick Top = $25
> Groz vise = $40
> ...


Very practical


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*Bosch 4100 TS - Zero-Clearance Inserts*

I got a few questions about the zero-clearance inserts I made for my bosch table saw, so I figured I'd post the procedure here as to how I made those.

The basic Idea is to take the factory inserts and use that as a template for the router. but alas, the factory insert is just too thin at some points to be able to follow it with a trim router bit, so to tackle this issue I made an initial template out of 1/2" plywood. This first template took a bit more patience and care so that it matches the original shape perfectly. Once I got this 1/2" ply template I am set for as long as I need to make inserts as I can always use that template easily with a trim-bit.

Notice how the bottom face of the template has a groove in to allow the blade to fit in - this is merely done so that I could push the template in and check for precise sizing (the blade was slightly in the way):









Next I ripped some 1/2" MDF (I am not a big fan of working with MDF - health wise, but I do have some, and will rarely use it for jigs) to closely match the width of the ply-pattern, and cut it to length.

If you want, you can use a jigsaw and cut the MDF square to the insert size as close as you can to relieve the extra work from the router (next step).

I glued the ply-pattern on top of the MDF block, and with a trim-bit in my router table shaped the MDF to the exact insert size and shape.

Next, I used a straight-cut bit and trimmed the bottom face of the insert by 1/8" - this may vary depending on your saw,and your insert material (the saw lip - where the insert is being held - is 3/8" deep, and I was using 1/2" material). I found that raising the bit up, and holding the insert upright against the fence and protruding the bit 1/8" from the fence gave me cleaner more controlled cut (and also enabled me a deeper cut) as opposed to laying the insert flat on the table and having the bit extend 1/8" above the table.









Last step I cut a 3/4" hole in the front right side (away from the blade) to use as a finger hole to be able to pull the insert up and out of the saw (I drilled mine at a slight angle, but a straight hole would do just fine). I then placed the insert into the saw. moved the fence over the right side of the insert and locked it down. took a long board, and placed it over the left side of the insert (to the left of where the blade is) and clamped it down on both edges of the table. This will hold the insert in place. I then started the saw,and slowly raised the blade up through the insert. and Voila! - Zero-clearance inserts at almost $0 cost.

I made 3 at the same time - might as well. and labeled the bottom of the insert with the ANGLE and BLADE MODEL so that I'll know to which setting it was made for.









hope this helps…


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## thetimberkid (Apr 5, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Bosch 4100 TS - Zero-Clearance Inserts*
> 
> I got a few questions about the zero-clearance inserts I made for my bosch table saw, so I figured I'd post the procedure here as to how I made those.
> 
> ...


Great job!

Thanks for the post

Callum


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## kgbenson (Jun 29, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Bosch 4100 TS - Zero-Clearance Inserts*
> 
> I got a few questions about the zero-clearance inserts I made for my bosch table saw, so I figured I'd post the procedure here as to how I made those.
> 
> ...


Thanks - pics always help!

Keith


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## woodworkersguide (Mar 7, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Bosch 4100 TS - Zero-Clearance Inserts*
> 
> I got a few questions about the zero-clearance inserts I made for my bosch table saw, so I figured I'd post the procedure here as to how I made those.
> 
> ...


Cool! Thanks for the how-to!


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## sawneck (Oct 6, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Bosch 4100 TS - Zero-Clearance Inserts*
> 
> I got a few questions about the zero-clearance inserts I made for my bosch table saw, so I figured I'd post the procedure here as to how I made those.
> 
> ...


Great post..One question I have is how did you create the Riving knife hole?


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Bosch 4100 TS - Zero-Clearance Inserts*
> 
> I got a few questions about the zero-clearance inserts I made for my bosch table saw, so I figured I'd post the procedure here as to how I made those.
> 
> ...


*sawneck* - I used a jigsaw, and followed the opening made by the tablesaw-blade to make the opening for the riving knife. you could also use a hand saw, and files (to clean up the cut and widen it up)


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## MattOD (Feb 14, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *Bosch 4100 TS - Zero-Clearance Inserts*
> 
> I got a few questions about the zero-clearance inserts I made for my bosch table saw, so I figured I'd post the procedure here as to how I made those.
> 
> ...


I always enjoy reading your articles. Of particular importance is the simple directions and solutions that you provide.


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## mxrdrver (Feb 10, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *Bosch 4100 TS - Zero-Clearance Inserts*
> 
> I got a few questions about the zero-clearance inserts I made for my bosch table saw, so I figured I'd post the procedure here as to how I made those.
> 
> ...


I made my own out of 1/2" birch plywood. One regular one and another for dadoes.


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## rjoakwood (Jun 23, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *Bosch 4100 TS - Zero-Clearance Inserts*
> 
> I got a few questions about the zero-clearance inserts I made for my bosch table saw, so I figured I'd post the procedure here as to how I made those.
> 
> ...


Great job there and thanks mxrdrver for posting your pictures.


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## Lsmart (Jan 1, 2012)

PurpLev said:


> *Bosch 4100 TS - Zero-Clearance Inserts*
> 
> I got a few questions about the zero-clearance inserts I made for my bosch table saw, so I figured I'd post the procedure here as to how I made those.
> 
> ...


love this made mine today!


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## Roco54 (Dec 2, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *Bosch 4100 TS - Zero-Clearance Inserts*
> 
> I got a few questions about the zero-clearance inserts I made for my bosch table saw, so I figured I'd post the procedure here as to how I made those.
> 
> ...


I have bought my Bosch 4100-09 and assembled this w/e. What a beauty! its well made and everything fits together perfectly. I paired it with a Freud LU87R thin kerf blade and the quality of cut is amazing. I ordered a factory Zero Clearence insert (Bosch TS1005) and this insert was a disapointment. It is made of plastic and the midle portion is flimsy. If I level the extremities to the table, the midle rises above the table and when I start the saw the blade rubs against the side of the insert and makes a unpleasant screaching noise. Based on the this review I am going to make my own inserts. Thanks for the review and comments. It is really good to come to LJ and get unbiased and personal opinion about so many issues we come across with our woodworking adventures.


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## crazybrit (Dec 9, 2012)

PurpLev said:


> *Bosch 4100 TS - Zero-Clearance Inserts*
> 
> I got a few questions about the zero-clearance inserts I made for my bosch table saw, so I figured I'd post the procedure here as to how I made those.
> 
> ...


Purplev. Interesting post. Any chance you can rehost your pictures since homepage.mac.com is no more. Thanks!


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Bosch 4100 TS - Zero-Clearance Inserts*
> 
> I got a few questions about the zero-clearance inserts I made for my bosch table saw, so I figured I'd post the procedure here as to how I made those.
> 
> ...


post updated with photos fixed.


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## Shelha (Jan 28, 2013)

PurpLev said:


> *Bosch 4100 TS - Zero-Clearance Inserts*
> 
> I got a few questions about the zero-clearance inserts I made for my bosch table saw, so I figured I'd post the procedure here as to how I made those.
> 
> ...


Hello PurpLev and mxrdrver,

I just finished making my own insert for the Bosch 4100-09 and in order to raise the blade all the way up, you need to account for the riving knife, the base of the riving knife, and the middle bearing holding the blade. My question to either one of you is, did any of you made your inserts to allow the blade to be raised all the way up? I am just curious.

I also used 1/2" MDF and with the router I removed the material that prevented the blade from going all the way up, the only thing I have left to do is install some screws so I can level the insert just like mxrdrver did on his.

Your posts and pictures were very helpful to me, thank you for sharing!


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Bosch 4100 TS - Zero-Clearance Inserts*
> 
> I got a few questions about the zero-clearance inserts I made for my bosch table saw, so I figured I'd post the procedure here as to how I made those.
> 
> ...


*Shelha*: as you can see from my photos I ripped the inserts on the underside before using them. this allowed the blade and riving knife to be fully raised as far as I could tell (I no longer have this saw to confirm). but that is a good point if you need the blade raised all the way up.

While on the subject, it got me thinking - I don't believe I ever needed to raise the blade all the way up. it is usually at the 1/4" - 1-1/2" range


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## Shelha (Jan 28, 2013)

PurpLev said:


> *Bosch 4100 TS - Zero-Clearance Inserts*
> 
> I got a few questions about the zero-clearance inserts I made for my bosch table saw, so I figured I'd post the procedure here as to how I made those.
> 
> ...


PurpLev,

Thank you very much for responding! You are absolutely right about having to raise the blade all the way up, my rational was if at one point you needed to do so you had it covered, but chances are you may never need to.

One of the things that was really annoying when I was making the insert, was the fact that between the left supporters of the insert there is a long support that sits much higher, it was a pain to overcome the obstacle because you could not just remove the material evenly, I had to make a deeper cut to make the insert fit. I watched other videos of people making inserts and not one had this issue. (Maybe is just my saw model).

Again, thank you for responding!


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Bosch 4100 TS - Zero-Clearance Inserts*
> 
> I got a few questions about the zero-clearance inserts I made for my bosch table saw, so I figured I'd post the procedure here as to how I made those.
> 
> ...


I think this is how it is on this saw (4900). if I'm not mistaken, I simply routed the entire perimeter a little deeper to accommodate for that, and than used spacers to level out the insert on the 4 supporting tabs. but looks like you did a great job on yours. yours look much more articulate, I simply chose to go the simple route  pun intended


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## antiblock (Sep 18, 2017)

PurpLev said:


> *Bosch 4100 TS - Zero-Clearance Inserts*
> 
> I got a few questions about the zero-clearance inserts I made for my bosch table saw, so I figured I'd post the procedure here as to how I made those.
> 
> ...


Good job


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*Incra 998SE Miter Gauge*

So I am building a box frame using box-joints.

I have my Incra 1000SE miter gauge setup with the stop block to cut the side pieces to length, and I'm all done with that.

Time to cut the box joints.

So I swap the blade on the table saw with my new (only used once before) Dado blade, I attach my homemade high fence for making box joints onto the Incra 1000 fence, and I'm ready to start cutting.

If you've followed the details up to this point - you might have noticed a problem… I didn't.

I am always very wary as to where my hands are, and where my fingers are when working with the table saw, and it's a good thing - the one thing I wasn't aware of, and didn't even think about was the fact that my miter gauge fence is setup for minimal distance from my 1/8" saw blade, but I now have a full width dado blade in the arbor…

as I cut through the side of the box and through the auxiliary high fence I feel unusual hot pieces hitting my arm… first thought that came through my head was that there is some burn-in in the wood, and it's heating the sawdust up… second thought that came through my mind was - "um… holy crap, I just dadoed my miter fence…

good thing this was only a light aluminum fence and not some cast iron that my blade went through or the outcome might have been more significant. as it turns out - I no longer have an Incra 1000SE, but instead am missing some of the metal, and am left with an Incra 998SE - still functional, just slightly cosmetically annoying.

here you can see the first cut the dado made through the 1/4"bolt and into the aluminum fence, and next to it the "should have been" cut after I repositioned the fence to be further from the blade









And here is the patient: 









This is my miter gauge, there are many like it, but this one is mine…(If you know the movie, you'd understand…lol)

Cheers, and Keep your fingers where you can see them - but also pay attention to everything else that's going on.


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## lazyfiremaninTN (Jul 30, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Incra 998SE Miter Gauge*
> 
> So I am building a box frame using box-joints.
> 
> ...


I know the movie and I have not had the "pleasure" of anything of this magnatude, I recently shot a nail, via the table saw, into my right shoulder due to my inattention.

Like the keep your fingers where you can see them.

Stay safe.


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## sidestepmcgee (Mar 14, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Incra 998SE Miter Gauge*
> 
> So I am building a box frame using box-joints.
> 
> ...


since your ok i can laugh, dont worry i have many tools that could only be mine.never can be to safe. thanks


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## Bigbuck (May 15, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Incra 998SE Miter Gauge*
> 
> So I am building a box frame using box-joints.
> 
> ...


Glad it wasn't anything worse, I have put some screws in jigs and forgot about them as I ran them throught the saw luckily the results were about the same as yours.


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## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Incra 998SE Miter Gauge*
> 
> So I am building a box frame using box-joints.
> 
> ...


Hi Lev;

You didn't mention how you like working with the Incra 998SE.

On of the fellows in my show for a while had a tendency to re-size parts that apparently were longer than they were supposed to be.

I've cut a few levels in half in my time. (and it's ALWAYS a new onw).

Lee


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## croessler (Jun 22, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Incra 998SE Miter Gauge*
> 
> So I am building a box frame using box-joints.
> 
> ...


 I'm glad that I'm not the only one who's done something like this!


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Incra 998SE Miter Gauge*
> 
> So I am building a box frame using box-joints.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the post. I have come close to doing this (switching between 45s and 90 degree cuts with my 1000SE. This is a problem that you don't run into with the stock miter gauges since they are so short. But, since you were not hurt physically, this is one of these woodworking lessons from which both you and those of us who read this will ultimately get some benefit from.


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## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Incra 998SE Miter Gauge*
> 
> So I am building a box frame using box-joints.
> 
> ...


Crud that sucks! I wonder if Incra sells replacement parts and even then if it would be worth it.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Incra 998SE Miter Gauge*
> 
> So I am building a box frame using box-joints.
> 
> ...


*Lee*- working with the 998SE is very similar to working with the 1000SE, they both have the same accuracy, and what's not.. the only major different I notice is that the 998SE is slightly lighter, and easier to carry around - but nothing too extreme.

*Scott* - it is true! working with stock miters is less likely to get something like this to happen, but it's not really the miter gauge that is the issue - it's the aluminum fence - which does have it's benefits. it all comes down to paying attention when you're changing setups. nothing more, nothing less.

*sIKE* - I actually tried looking for replacement part - just out of curiosity (although the fence works just fine, and doesn't really call for any replacements) but wasnt able to locate any - you can find a brand new 1000SE for about $125 give of take a little, so Im not sure replacement parts would even be worth it as you mentioned.


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

PurpLev said:


> *Incra 998SE Miter Gauge*
> 
> So I am building a box frame using box-joints.
> 
> ...


Incra sells replacement tubes and you can also get them longer.

They had a sale a year ago and I bought 6 - 36" tubes. I ordered 18" and they sent 36" instead. That I've used on Drill press etc.

But that off to the correct new length and then buy a 48 inch one as a swap replacement.

Love here on Incra. and click apposite the vase down the page. Optional Acessories.

And here is the page.


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## Carolynne (May 9, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Incra 998SE Miter Gauge*
> 
> So I am building a box frame using box-joints.
> 
> ...


Thanks for educating me - I'll remember and learn


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## thenickedfinger (Feb 17, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Incra 998SE Miter Gauge*
> 
> So I am building a box frame using box-joints.
> 
> ...


OK, now I feel better.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*Finally the Band has arrived... (saw that is)*

So I've been planning on getting a bandsaw for a long time, but at first I didn't have the space for it - then I figured, maybe I can squeeze a 12" version in the tight space that I did have - but that would mean I will not be able to resaw - which is one of the main reasons I wanted to get a bandsaw, so eventually I just had to put this wish on the back-burner…

I had recently moved to a larger place, with a larger garage that is currently dedicated for a shop - and can actually fit a couple of tools, and a decent work area (once I have everything organized and cleared… will take a while as we have more important matters to draw our attention at the moment - our daughter) but I have finally was able to get my wish bandsaw! YAY!

I did a lot of research, and for my needs I think a 14" will be more than I'll ever need. that being said - I did want to get as much resaw capacity as I could, and as much power as possible, while still making it reasonable on my pockets - the choice was a Rikon 14" Deluxe bandsaw. at 1 1/2 HP it is more powerful than most bandsaws, it is a steel construction which I personally prefer over the cast iron construction. it is capable of resawing up to 13" out of the box (although I didn't get it in a box - it still has the same feature), comes with an easy to use Resaw fence+bar, cast-iron wheels, large cast-iron table - how can you go wrong?!? - oh, and it's spanking beautiful… lol - yes it does matter.

Here it is… arriving in the trunk+back seat of the car. at first I wasn't sure I'd be able to transport it by myself, and even if I could, I didnt know if it would fit in the car -but after measuring, and calculating, and checking to see that it CAN be transported on it's back - I was able to fit it in the car. A bit heavy, but with some creative thinking and leverage from the straps I was able to lower it down into it's awaiting mobile base (got it from woodcraft- it works smoothly and easily)









And here it is still without the cast-iron table after being wheeled into the garage:









And with the Cast-Iron Table mounted on… all ready to cut some wood:









I WILL write a full-on review once I have set it up, and get some work done with it to get a feel for how it performs, and how we interact with one another. So far - So good! tonight I sleep a happy camper


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## trifern (Feb 1, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Finally the Band has arrived... (saw that is)*
> 
> So I've been planning on getting a bandsaw for a long time, but at first I didn't have the space for it - then I figured, maybe I can squeeze a 12" version in the tight space that I did have - but that would mean I will not be able to resaw - which is one of the main reasons I wanted to get a bandsaw, so eventually I just had to put this wish on the back-burner…
> 
> ...


I am happy for you and look forward to your review. Thanks for sharing.


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

PurpLev said:


> *Finally the Band has arrived... (saw that is)*
> 
> So I've been planning on getting a bandsaw for a long time, but at first I didn't have the space for it - then I figured, maybe I can squeeze a 12" version in the tight space that I did have - but that would mean I will not be able to resaw - which is one of the main reasons I wanted to get a bandsaw, so eventually I just had to put this wish on the back-burner…
> 
> ...


Looks like a great big saw there. Congratulations.


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## croessler (Jun 22, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Finally the Band has arrived... (saw that is)*
> 
> So I've been planning on getting a bandsaw for a long time, but at first I didn't have the space for it - then I figured, maybe I can squeeze a 12" version in the tight space that I did have - but that would mean I will not be able to resaw - which is one of the main reasons I wanted to get a bandsaw, so eventually I just had to put this wish on the back-burner…
> 
> ...


Congrats!


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## Radish (Apr 11, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Finally the Band has arrived... (saw that is)*
> 
> So I've been planning on getting a bandsaw for a long time, but at first I didn't have the space for it - then I figured, maybe I can squeeze a 12" version in the tight space that I did have - but that would mean I will not be able to resaw - which is one of the main reasons I wanted to get a bandsaw, so eventually I just had to put this wish on the back-burner…
> 
> ...


When there's a will there's a way! This will open up a whole new vista in your woodworking career.
We'll be looking for the review and some projects…Yippie!


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## LesHastings (Jan 26, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Finally the Band has arrived... (saw that is)*
> 
> So I've been planning on getting a bandsaw for a long time, but at first I didn't have the space for it - then I figured, maybe I can squeeze a 12" version in the tight space that I did have - but that would mean I will not be able to resaw - which is one of the main reasons I wanted to get a bandsaw, so eventually I just had to put this wish on the back-burner…
> 
> ...


I think you'll like their saw. I have the Rikon 18" model and I'm really happy with mine.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Finally the Band has arrived... (saw that is)*
> 
> So I've been planning on getting a bandsaw for a long time, but at first I didn't have the space for it - then I figured, maybe I can squeeze a 12" version in the tight space that I did have - but that would mean I will not be able to resaw - which is one of the main reasons I wanted to get a bandsaw, so eventually I just had to put this wish on the back-burner…
> 
> ...


Thanks for the warm wishes everyone!
*Douglas* - I've already been through a couple of moments where I said to myself "if only I had a bandsaw I could to 'this' and 'that' ..." hahaha, I can't wait to see what else I can do with this thing.


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## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Finally the Band has arrived... (saw that is)*
> 
> So I've been planning on getting a bandsaw for a long time, but at first I didn't have the space for it - then I figured, maybe I can squeeze a 12" version in the tight space that I did have - but that would mean I will not be able to resaw - which is one of the main reasons I wanted to get a bandsaw, so eventually I just had to put this wish on the back-burner…
> 
> ...


Hi Purplev;

Looks like a great addition to any shop.

What do you mean sleep?

How can you consider sleeping at a time like this?

Lee


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Finally the Band has arrived... (saw that is)*
> 
> So I've been planning on getting a bandsaw for a long time, but at first I didn't have the space for it - then I figured, maybe I can squeeze a 12" version in the tight space that I did have - but that would mean I will not be able to resaw - which is one of the main reasons I wanted to get a bandsaw, so eventually I just had to put this wish on the back-burner…
> 
> ...


*Lee* - I don't really want to, but I am forced by law to sleep… it's a new thing here…

besides- thats when I do my best work… only problem is that it's not there when I wake up to show to everybody… gotta work on a solution to that


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## ryno101 (May 14, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Finally the Band has arrived... (saw that is)*
> 
> So I've been planning on getting a bandsaw for a long time, but at first I didn't have the space for it - then I figured, maybe I can squeeze a 12" version in the tight space that I did have - but that would mean I will not be able to resaw - which is one of the main reasons I wanted to get a bandsaw, so eventually I just had to put this wish on the back-burner…
> 
> ...


Congrats… Oh, I'm jealous…

I'm in a similar position as you were with shop space, and have avoided a table top bandsaw for exactly the same reasons. I want to be able to have some resaw capabilities.

Can't wait to see your review, this is going to open up a whole new world for you in terms of what you can actually make!

Oh, and if you ever need anyone to help you test… Winchester's not too far from here… ;-)


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## SCOTSMAN (Aug 1, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Finally the Band has arrived... (saw that is)*
> 
> So I've been planning on getting a bandsaw for a long time, but at first I didn't have the space for it - then I figured, maybe I can squeeze a 12" version in the tight space that I did have - but that would mean I will not be able to resaw - which is one of the main reasons I wanted to get a bandsaw, so eventually I just had to put this wish on the back-burner…
> 
> ...


Good luck with the new saw I bought one and a year later took a fancy to a much bigger one, which I bought right away.They did not deiliver it for a few months but I got most of the money back on the first one about 2/3rd's. The new one is a 24 inch with full 18"inches under the guides for resawing I know you will never look back.The very best of good wishes to you my friend God Bless Alistair


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## Chipncut (Aug 18, 2006)

PurpLev said:


> *Finally the Band has arrived... (saw that is)*
> 
> So I've been planning on getting a bandsaw for a long time, but at first I didn't have the space for it - then I figured, maybe I can squeeze a 12" version in the tight space that I did have - but that would mean I will not be able to resaw - which is one of the main reasons I wanted to get a bandsaw, so eventually I just had to put this wish on the back-burner…
> 
> ...


Congratulations, It's the same as mine.

I know you're going to like it. I've had mine over a year now, & really like it, no complaints.

That must have been a bugger getting it in, & out of the car.

Mine came in a box, & the individual pieces were heavy enough.


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## fidelfs (Apr 7, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Finally the Band has arrived... (saw that is)*
> 
> So I've been planning on getting a bandsaw for a long time, but at first I didn't have the space for it - then I figured, maybe I can squeeze a 12" version in the tight space that I did have - but that would mean I will not be able to resaw - which is one of the main reasons I wanted to get a bandsaw, so eventually I just had to put this wish on the back-burner…
> 
> ...


you will love it, I have the same one and it purrs not like my old Grizzly ultimate bandsaw ( I sold it and bought the Rikon) that made all kind of noices.

I am actually working with hard maple and I am resawing some of it and the bandsaw cuts like butter.

Good choice!!


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*Drill Press Table*

I cannot take full credit for this, as this is an upgrade I've made to my old drill press table with an idea I've seen on Woodscrap's workshop page.









My original table was just 3/4" birch plywood, which was too thin, and when I installed the t-tracks in it, the slot I routed left the plywood useless as there wasnt enough material left to keep it sturdy, and not enough material for the screws to hold into. The new table is 3/4" birch ply laminated with hardboard on both sides. this gives it extra thickness, also makes the surface a bit smoother, and by clearing out an insert area under the drill quill, I can make replacement inserts fairly simple since the thickness is that of the hardboard (no need to guess here).









I also (and this was an idea I got from Woodscraps' workshop page) made a permanent 90 degree table - these makes it possible for me to drill in the edge of pieces without having to tilt the table. I've also made the table offset to the left - leaving me enough clearance to the table up/down crank handle (previous one was centered, and I was banging my hand repeatedly when adjusting the table)









You an also see in these pictures the Jacobs Keyless Chuck I got for the drill press when I bought it - this thing is Priceless!


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Drill Press Table*
> 
> I cannot take full credit for this, as this is an upgrade I've made to my old drill press table with an idea I've seen on Woodscrap's workshop page.
> 
> ...


Nice Table!

Really like the vertical component and the hold down system.

Had the same knuckle buster problem with my table until I saw a post here on LJ's on how to make a handle extender. Fixed me up.


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## ellen35 (Jan 1, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Drill Press Table*
> 
> I cannot take full credit for this, as this is an upgrade I've made to my old drill press table with an idea I've seen on Woodscrap's workshop page.
> 
> ...


Nice touch Sharon!


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## Mujo (Mar 1, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Drill Press Table*
> 
> I cannot take full credit for this, as this is an upgrade I've made to my old drill press table with an idea I've seen on Woodscrap's workshop page.
> 
> ...


Cool !
Over head rooter. or Milling cutter.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Drill Press Table*
> 
> I cannot take full credit for this, as this is an upgrade I've made to my old drill press table with an idea I've seen on Woodscrap's workshop page.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the comments.

lew - the hold down jig was just something I threw together for a specific project, and is kinda flimsy - but thanks for the warm words (I really should take it apart and make a better/universal one instead). I didnt think about a handle extension for the table crank handle, but I'm very satisfied with my solution, so no need to change it.


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## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Drill Press Table*
> 
> I cannot take full credit for this, as this is an upgrade I've made to my old drill press table with an idea I've seen on Woodscrap's workshop page.
> 
> ...


Looks great Purple Lev! I have wanted a full size DP for quite a while and this doesn't help!


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Drill Press Table*
> 
> I cannot take full credit for this, as this is an upgrade I've made to my old drill press table with an idea I've seen on Woodscrap's workshop page.
> 
> ...


sIKE- no it doesn't ;o)

BUT - you can make a similar table for a benchtop DP as well…

I sometimes wish I had a benchtop model…lol , this one takes a lot of room, and has a lot of wasted space under the table most of the time.


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## Dusty56 (Apr 20, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Drill Press Table*
> 
> I cannot take full credit for this, as this is an upgrade I've made to my old drill press table with an idea I've seen on Woodscrap's workshop page.
> 
> ...


I like your table design and features . I've seen so many different ideas as far as making one of these , but I can't decide which way to build one of my own yet . What do you secure your stock with in the 90 degree position , just regular clamps , or do you have t-tracks out of site in the picture ?


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Drill Press Table*
> 
> I cannot take full credit for this, as this is an upgrade I've made to my old drill press table with an idea I've seen on Woodscrap's workshop page.
> 
> ...


Good drill press table looks like it does a good job.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Drill Press Table*
> 
> I cannot take full credit for this, as this is an upgrade I've made to my old drill press table with an idea I've seen on Woodscrap's workshop page.
> 
> ...


Dusty - thanks.

for the vertical platform of the table - I will add another T-track and the fence will eventually be mitered downwards to follow that platform to have a more stable reference guide. It was late, and I was getting lazy… so for now I do just clamp it with regular clamps and butt it against the horizontal fence - it works well, and I don't bore vertical that often that I'm inclined to complete the missing T-track at the moment, so it's on the back burner- but thats the general idea. if youre ever in the eastern MA area, you can drop by, I can give you a few sheets of masonite for table/jig tops/surfaces.


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## Dusty56 (Apr 20, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Drill Press Table*
> 
> I cannot take full credit for this, as this is an upgrade I've made to my old drill press table with an idea I've seen on Woodscrap's workshop page.
> 
> ...


Thank you for the feedback . I was just out in Tewksbury and Salem,NH last weekend.(two hour drive from my place on the Pike and up 495 , etc..)
I went to the Rockler store in Salem…WOW what a great store AND no MA taxes to pay !! The Danvers Rockler has closed its doors , so I would have to go to Cambridge instead , which I was warned against doing due to the traffic , etc.. Salem is less than a half hour drive to my friends' house in Tewksbury. 
Rockler had a bunch of in-store only specials last weekend , plus I had a 15% off coupon with me .Let's just say that the trip was worthwhile : )


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Drill Press Table*
> 
> I cannot take full credit for this, as this is an upgrade I've made to my old drill press table with an idea I've seen on Woodscrap's workshop page.
> 
> ...


and you didn't stop by to pick me up?!?

I like the Cambridge store- ALL the guys working there are top notch friendly and helpfull - always! period! I live 2 blocks from 'another' woodworking store, but if I have a choice - I'd drive into cambridge with traffic and parking just because I know I'll get good service and advice there should I need it. but might be different for you. glad you had a good trip. def. the NH no taxes is a nice cherry on top.


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## moonls (Mar 23, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Drill Press Table*
> 
> I cannot take full credit for this, as this is an upgrade I've made to my old drill press table with an idea I've seen on Woodscrap's workshop page.
> 
> ...


I think I have the same model drill press so I'm saving your great table plan to try ASAP! Thanks.


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## jaredw (Aug 13, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *Drill Press Table*
> 
> I cannot take full credit for this, as this is an upgrade I've made to my old drill press table with an idea I've seen on Woodscrap's workshop page.
> 
> ...


I just got the same Drill Press from my Grandpa!!!!


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*

So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).










*The Arrival:*

So. I have the box in my garage, little will it do in it's current status - gotta start peeling the layers off:










*Unpacking:*

First off, came the carton box. which shows the 2 piece steel crate that holds everything inside in place and protected:










Unbolting the Top part of the Crate (8 bolts) and lifting it off enables access to all the parts (top carton protects the table top and has the user manual , blade, and belt on it. Side box has the extension tables and fence system):










Taking off the top cover shows the Granite table top, and the saw in a standing up position between the boxes:










After moving all the boxes aside, you get to the actual saw, motor, trunnions, and table top all connected already:










*Minimizing Weight for Assembly (one person job):*

Since I'm all by myself for this assembly, and since the trunnions are cabinet mounted- I figured I can take the table top off, which will reduce the weight of this beast and make it a bit more manageable for me to move it around for assembly of the parts. I also figured I can take the motor cover completely off, giving me easier access to the inside of the cabinet for this phase (I'm really glad I did these as it seriously simplified things later on):










*Mobile Base (Herc-U-Lift):*

Next was the herc-u-lift mobile base assembly phase. as others have noted before, the instructions are somewhat vague, and although I'm really good at following directions, and I really love putting things together - it could have been made a bit easier, and I can see why others can have some difficulties with this part.

One good tip I picked up was to install the dust chute in the base PRIOR to mounting the herc-u-lift mechanism, I can see that if it was done the other way around (as the instruction hint) it would be pretty impossible to accomplish.

when installing the base, I installed all bolts and screws by hand, and left a little play in the assembly (as to not tighten things off square). After I bolted the entire base to the saw cabinet, I went ahead and final-tighten all bolts with the screwdriver (impact) this way things are aligned properly and no tension is present between the parts.

Here you can see how I was able to lower the saw on it's back and install the mobile base by myself:










*V-Belt:*

Now I was able to lift the cabinet on it's mobile base. Thanks to the weight reduction I had done, I was able to do this by myself pretty easily (mind you, I'm strong, but not a big guy at ~150lbs).

To install the belt, I lower the blade assembly, and tilted to 45, again - since I removed the top, and the motor cover, access to the motor pully and arbor pully was as easy as 1-2-3 reach in and touch:










*Table Top:*

Time to put that table top back:










The extension wings came in fairly easy with the aid of the assistance-bars. After hearing of an incident of the granite chip when trying to align it, I made sure the ext. tables are somewhat away from the table while doing the fine adjustments to it so that they won't rub against each other:










*Fence:*

Last was putting the Fence in - rather intuitive, and easy to follow, also installed the power switch on it, and put the motor cover back on, eh-voila. it's alive! 3 hours total assembly time- not too bad.:










*Notes*:

1. each bag of bolts have a 'figure' character on it and a list of parts it contains - those refer to the parts-assembly-pamplet, and NOT the user manual - this one is actually easier to follow for assembly then the user manual (I had both in front of me while getting this done)

2. I had originally checked out the Steel City 35920 saw (which is how I became to learn of the Ridgid one) and I find the Ridgid saw to be of higher finish and feel - maybe psychologically, but still - for me it's real.

3. Miter gauge and Miter slot feel really snug, though smooth - I like that. I still havent used the saw, so this might change - so far, this is the first impression.

4. Herc-U-Lift is phenomenal! this was actually one of the main reasons I chose this saw as opposed to the SteelCity one (there were other reasons though). This mobile base is easy and smooth to operate (glides on the floor like on ice!) yet, when it's brought down - this thing is ROCK-SOLID! and I ain't talking about the granite ;o)

5. Home Depot was actually surprisingly a pleasure to work with on this purchase, they even called me to see how I like the new saw… Haven't had that from HD yet. I wonder if it's a new business plan they are running, or if it's just that particular store.

All in all, I'm very pleased with this purchase. this is no PM2000, but I am no production warehouse either. looks like this one is the one for me, it has all the features that are important to me (motor in cabinet, cabinet mounted trunnions (just a bonus), built in riving knife, built in dust control (I'm a big fan of 'built-ins'), mobile base, and 110v with an option to go 220v at a later date). At a price that I can afford (yes, that also plays an important part for me as I'm not using this as a money maker (yet) so cost plays a part in the decision).

I haven't yet had a chance to start up this one yet (not even put a blade in it yet, and still need to align the top to the blade), but I'll write up a full review on performance once I have a bit more experience with it. so far - I really like it - and I don't like the Ridgid line of products much in general.

Finally the search is over. )


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## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


That's a nice looking saw.

They sure did a good job of packing it. I don't think I've ever seen a steel frame like that.


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## Bureaucrat (May 26, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


Dang that's a pretty saw! Serious tool envy here. So have you figured out what you are going to do with that steel frame? There has to be a tool stand or something that will come of it.

Look forward to you continued description of how this works for you.


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## JohnGray (Oct 6, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


Looks like a nice saw, I have a TS3650 and really like it that there are improvements made to your saw that I would like to see on the 3650.
Improvements:
1. The power cord, switch, actually actually comes out front and left like it should.
2. The dust collection system looks excellent.
3. The blade adjustment wheels are bigger and easier to get to.
The thing I would not want is the "granite" table top. 
I really like the Herc-U-Lift on mine and yours.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


Thanks for the comments.

*Gary* - I know that Steel City ships their saws this way - in a steel frame.

That, the Granite Top, and the fact that almost the entire saw looks identical to the Steel City 35920 makes me think they are made on the same assembly line in the same factory, I think the only differences are the cabinet itself (steelcity being full cabinet, and Ridgid being 3/4 with the herc-u-lift) construction and color. actually the granite top on both machines looks slightly different (mainly the T-slot miter slot that is missing on the SC, and the finish seems a bit nicer on the ridgid as well) .

*John* - I'm not sure I'm a big fan of the Granite top myself, but thats what this saw comes with - I did ask for a cast iron option but it's not gonna happen anytime soon if ever at all. I like the fact that it won't rust - it is an issue where I'm at due to humidity in summer, and rain/snow blows in the winter - not too big of an issue, but it's there, although I can live with it (heck , my bandsaw and drill press are still cast iron, so I'm not completely avoiding the overhead here). PS- all the rave reviews of the TS3650 and 3660 made a huge impact on my decision to go with this one (I think the motor is the same 1.5HP motor).


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


That looks like a pretty nice saw. I can't believe the whole thing was in that box!

I am looking forward to seeing the projects that you build on that one!


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## mrsawdust (Aug 19, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


purp,
i'm sitting here slobbering all over myself. pretty saw. good luck with it…..
mike


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


*mrsawdust* - you CAN actually slobber all over this saw - no rust ! finally some good use of that granite top.. lol. Thanks for the comment.

*Todd*, I guess now it's all up to me to actually make stuff - no more excuses huh? it's funny, when I was writing this blog, and looking at the series of pictures, I couldn't believe all that came out of the box either.


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## jcame (Aug 10, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


The saw looks awesome and I like everything about it exept it looks like in the picture that the fence is kind of small. Maybe its just the picture though, but it looks like you might have a deflection problem with it. I guess I could also just be used to my Biessmeyer and the look of it. Still an awesome saw none the less.


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## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


New saw, nice. Now to use it huh? BTW.. I asked at home depot once why the sudden in your face "can I help you" every time I pass someone in an isle with an orange apron. The answer from a regular worker there was; new management. From the top the ruling came.. more customer friendly. They used to have a reputation of "you can do it yourself, and we'll help". They sort of got away from that. Anyway, nice to see. Dunno if it will save them but nice to see. They're closing some HD's around this area. Lowe's is building.


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


This looks like a really nice saw and you did a good job of detailing the installation process. After you use it awhile why don't you post a review of it?


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## ryno101 (May 14, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


Congrats… I saw this saw in the recent FW, then yesterday while picking up materials at HD, saw it in person… looks really nice, I was particularly impressed with the quality of the fence (all relative, of course…) and for the money, looks like a really nice tool.

I'm glad that someone I "know" has one now… I was thinking that this might be the best fit for me, and I'm looking forward to hearing what you think about it once you've had a chance to put it through it's paces.


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## Brad_Nailor (Jul 26, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


nice new saw Purp. I have to say I have never been a fan of Rigid tools but I recently borrowed a friends Rigid planer and I really like it allot. It works great…. leaves a mirror smooth finish, the knives are a breeze to flip/change and its only $300 bucks! The saw looks great I really like the way they package it..I have never seen a metal frame like that for shipping. I personally like the granite tops but I don't own one..would be nice to hear from somebody that has used a tool that has a granite top for a while and hear their feedback on it. The mobile base on that thing looks really nice and for a guy that has limited space (like you and me) a good mobile base is critical. The trunnions are cabinet mounted so that should make Woodchuck happy. The only criticism I have is the fence looks a little cheesy. I would have to see it in person and play around with it but for me thats the make-it or break it part of a saw..it has to have a good quality biesmeyer style fence..or I just wont buy it. But overall it looks like a great saw for the money..I will have to mosey over to the big orange box and take a look at it! Thanks for the review.


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## will2480 (Dec 25, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


PurpLev,
How did you buy this saw from Home Depot (online or in the store)? All of the Home Depots around me only carry the Rigid job site saws and I can never find anyone in the store to ask how to order the TS3650 or the R4511. I've also never found these saws listed on HomeDepot.com when I search for them. Any guidance would be very much appreciated! Thanks for the review.


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## Moai (Feb 9, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


WOooOW Purplev! Thats a pretty machine!........Congartulations, I wish you hours of happy woodworking!!!


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


Thanks all for the comments. So far I've just completed aligning table, fence, and blade, and ran some test cuts - it works great. It did pass the nickel test, but not the dime test - I still have to replace the factory belt with a better quality one so that might help out some.

*Brad* - like yourself, I was never a fan of Ridgid - but apparently they did something write with their table saws (woodworking models at least) and their planers/jointers… (I heard bad reviews on their bandsaw though). I know what you mean about the fence- and that was the one thing that originally had disappointed me when I went to check out the steelcity version of this saw - it IS a slimmer, thinner, smaller fence then the Bissmeiyer/Industrial fences (and this one is a 2 piece as opposed to a 1 piece rail) BUT it does seem to be working pretty well, rides smoothly (1 finger) along the table. after I aligned it, there is mininal runout with a marginal low spot in the middle though - I will add a phenolic/UHWM faces to this fence later on, so that will take care of that (shimming comes to mind). if you compare the Steelcity model that comes with this fence, and the one that comes with the Bissmeyer type - it's a $350 difference. I think I can live with this fence for the time being - mind you, this is still a top notch fence - no aluminum or plastic parts here, it's just a smaller version of the bissmeyer system.

I'm not sure the trunnion being cabinet mounted will make woodchuck happy, but I know if I'll call this a cabinet saw- that he'll be chiming in ;o) (I ain't gonna call it that though… so don't hold your breath)

*Will* - I did some calling around, most local stores didn't carry this one, and would not know anything about it unless I used the SKU (750 663… I already know it by heart). only 1 store had 2 of those, and even when I stopped by - the buy at the tool isle didn't have a clue about this saw - it was still in the box on a top shelf in a different isle. my suggestion is to make a list of all HD in your area+ call them, and ask to check if this SKU is in stock - if their computer shows '1' have them go and check to see where it's at (could be already sold but not updated). this saw DOES NOT show on HD.com , nor does the 3660 … for some reason.

full reviews WILL be coming up as I gain more experience with the saw. so far it is super easy to align. the Fence DOES seem to be holding up to good performance, locks steady and is smooth to operate. blade controls are easy and smooth as well (large wheels and good locks). the table top does seem to have marginal valleys, but they do not seem to be in the way of performance. (although it's kinda funny, since the granite was supposed to be this 'perfect' surface).... more will come.


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## Brad_Nailor (Jul 26, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


Thats like when my wife bought me the Rigid spindle sander..she asked the guy working the tool department and it was like a red light went off.." hey Joe this here lady wants to buy one of them there spidley sanders..he must do some mighty fancy wood wurkin" Its too bad.. they might sell a few more of those table saws if they had one out in the isle so guys like us could play around with it a little. 
As far as the fence goes as long as you can square it to the blade, it locks up good and tight with no deflection, and is accurate then it will be cool…especially if you face it with some UHMW.
I'm not surprised that the granite isn't perfectly flat…I am still on the fence with the granite..I hear it chips fairly easy, and nothing magnetic like feather boards and such will work…although I have that problem with my aluminum table on my BOSCH…


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## Timbo (Aug 21, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


Congrats on the new saw! Glad to see you have operational. I talked with Steel city while ordering a couple of riving knives for my saw and they said they are coming out with the same model saw as the RIDGID R45111 saw for around $649.


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## Mario (Apr 23, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


Thank you for the step by step with pics, that was very useful.

thanks


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


*Brad*- I think it was the same guy at HD…(wow, thats a big saw, you must be doing some serius work) hahaha. I had actually moved away from the Bosch saw - I found the aluminum table top to be a PITA, and not because it's non-magnetic. I do agree with you regarding the Granite - I'm not 100% sold on the idea as well, but thats what I've got, and I'll make the best with it - I did hear that the top can be chipped during installation. and I can see it's weak spots, but as far as normal operations - I'm not sure these spots will see much abuse - so far so good. The Fence DOES ride smoothly and lock firmly, UHMW will 'fix' it completely of all it's downsides.

*Tim* - if you'll follow my recent blogs and posts, I actually came to the Ridgid saw FROM researching the Steel City version which I found was somewhat disappointing - same saw as the Ridgid, at a higher cost, and from the looks of it (although I'm sure it's coming from the same factory and assembly line) the Ridgid has a nicer finish and touch to it.


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## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


Hi Purplev,

Congratulations on the new saw. I'm sure you will be spitting out really fine projects soon. (it's in your blood, you know!)

Now you just need a good infeed and outfeed system to make it simple to cut heavy sheet goods, or rough lumber, while working alone.

I know a guy that makes the finest ones in the world! You will be surprised at the ease of use, added accuracy, and productivity you will get.

http://www.ezee-feed.com

Sorry, I just had to add that.

I'm looking forward to your opinion of the granite top. I'm still undecided about them.

Have fun with your new toys!.

Lee


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


Thanks Lee, I hear good things about that system- and that guy…whoever that may be  - now , if you can get me a bigger garage, I might be able to fit that in there.

As far as Granite Top - I think cast and granite are the same, both are good, with each of them have a thorn - one being rust, and the other being chips - I guess it all boils down to what you'd rather cry about. The top IS glass smooth though, it's awesome.

So far the saw performs great! much better then my previous portable Bosch (which was an excellent saw). this one is a bit more annoying to setup (more screws, more time) but how often do you need to go there?


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## JNelson (Apr 27, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


PurpLev or anyone on here who can help!! I have a quick question for you experts, I just bought a r4511 based on the reviews on here and upon assembling it found that my saw was shipped with what seems to be an incorrectly machined right table extension. The extension for the right side has the bevel on the back instead of the front. but since the bolt holes that slide onto the studs that hold it to the center piece are only machined on one side I can't flip it around. I guess the only thing left to do is return it to home depot I just wandered if there is something I am missing. I have tried to attach some pictures so you can see what I am talking about. Can you think of anything I may have done wrong, or did I really just get this unlucky? Feel free to delete this post if you want also; I am new to blogs and am unsure what is acceptable as far as posting.

Front side:









From the side difference in color of Granite real noticeable:









From the back with the bevel where it's not supposed to be!:









By the way I love this site & sorry to hijack your blog!


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


no worries. looks like you got 2 LEFT extension wings.

I would call HD, make sure they have another R4511 in stock, go there with the wrong wing, and have them open the one they have in stock for an even exchange of the part alone - no need to haul the entire saw back and forth. talk to them first, so that you don't just haul the wing for nothing.

and Welcome aboard!


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## Durnik150 (Apr 22, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


Hey Purp. I just picked up my R4511 today and am reading all of your entries to help ease the assembly process. Thanks for taking the time to put all of this info out there!

Just something to toss out there. I took apart the box in the back of my truck. I was lightening the load since I was going to have to unload it myself (with help, I'm not that stupid). But, not the point. You mentioned the steel protection box that was inside the box and designed to protect the saw. I love the extra protection of my investment but thought of a great use for the frame.

The frame is in two pieces, one a perimeter frame around the base, and the other covering the sides and top. If you take the frame that came off the top and turn it over it forms a frame "cup". I'm going to bolt it to the ceiling of my shop and store wood in it. I guess I could bolt it to the wall but I have precious little wall space. It's perfect for that function as long as it is anchored correctly and you don't overload it.

Just an idea to increase storage space.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


This an older post but still interesting. I hope this saw is working out for you Sharon.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


*Charles*, I'm glad it was helpful. your use of the steel crate on the ceiling is a terrific idea! it's lightweight, but strong, and is easily accessible.

Thanks *Jim* - it is a great saw. the more I use it, the more I'm glad I made that choice. I do get to points where I feel I could use a 3hp saw… but no showstoppers, and for my needs, I'm very much satisfied with this one.


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## manitoba (Nov 7, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


I just picked up my R4511 and started to assemble it and I have to agree the instructions are not clear and some of the worst I have seen. It may have seemed worse as I previously had put together a Kregg router table and their instructions were very clear.-I should have read your blog first as I tried to put the dust collector in after the lift was on and had to start over.


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## Dadzor (Nov 10, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


Hey, PurpLev

First, thanks for sharing.

I am new to the forum and am much impressed by your posts and your handiwork.

I just got a call from HD informing me that my 4511 has arrived. On Friday I will leave to go pick it up in St. John's (an 800 Mile round trip) and return with it in a few days. Shipping would cost nearly as much as the saw, so driving is my only option. Besides I get to visit my two kids who live in in SJ, so no biggie.

The choice came down to a Delta 36-717 or the 4511. From all I've heard and read they are somewhat comparable, but the Delta would have cost me 1000 bucks more - I kid you not! - Probably because of the Biesmeyer fence and the fact that I live on an island about 8 hours from the mainland, and no Delta TS dealer nearby. HD also took $125 off the price, so they practically forced me to buy it!

Because of some previous posts discussing the matter, I will not take the SUV as my wife suggests, but my pickup. The R4511 forums I have been reading contain some very useful comments and I thank all posters for that.

I will rely heavily on your pics and explanations when assembly time comes, and again, I thank you for them.

Regards….


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


*manitoba* that sounds like a "dope" moment … no biggy, just annoying, glad you had things worked out.

*Danzor* - thanks for the kind words, and you're welcome. sounds like you've got some serious logistics issues to deal with on the island. glad to see you're taking initiative and acting … 800 miles - YIKES! but compared to $600, plus you get to visit your kids - priceless. you'll really enjoy the saw, I think although it's in the same class as the delta- it's years ahead in what it has to offer (literally), better build in mobile base, better safety devices (riving knife). the only thing that will require some tweaking is the fence - but it's workable. good luck, and enjoy your new saw.


----------



## franckforet (Nov 10, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


Hi all,

I just ordered the R4511 and have to go get it with my pick-up truck. Anyone knows the dimensions of the package ?

I want to make sure it sits in my Tacoma.

Thanks!


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## Dadzor (Nov 10, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


Hi, Francforet

Dimensions are:
Item Depth 38.75 In. 
tem Height 30.095 In. 
Item Weight 479.24 Lbs. 
Item Width 30.095 In.

Pallet looks to be about 48×40 but this is just a guess. PurpLev may be able to tell you.

Matt


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## franckforet (Nov 10, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


Thanks Dadzor!


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## iamwelty (Nov 14, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


Just picked up the saw myself… fit in my Ford Ranger with tons of room, so the Toyota won't have a problem. Unfortunately the saw is being discontinued… apparently because it's weight cost too much to ship. I bought mine for $450 (included a 10% off coupon) I'm a little worried about the warranty on a discontinued saw, but seems like Ridgid has had several saws of late discontinued. I'm waiting on it to get light so I can start assembling the saw. Wish me luck… I appreciate the great threads on assembly, Thanks guys!!


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## reymundo42 (Nov 8, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


Purp,
I have the Ridgid 3650 and thought I had the best saw for the money until I saw your post. "Shezabeaudymate!" Thanks also for your descriptive and informative blog about the entire process. It appears that you have even less room in your shop/studio/garage then I do and that's saying something! Now, I wonder how I can get rid of my 3650 and get one of those new granite top babies….........hummmm

I have some suggestions for the router top you plan to install on the Ridgid. I did one on mine and it's one of the best things I've ever done. Give me a shout out if you haven't built it yet and I'll share my experiences with you.

You mentioned that you owned a Ridgid joiner and that the Ridgid joiner knives were easy to install. I purchased one used and need a little help installing the knives. I lost 1" of my index finger on a joiner 40 years ago and I'm still a bit squimish about the thing so I want to do it right. Any sugggestions?


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


congrats on the purchase *iamwelty*!

*reymundo42* - I think it was someone else that mentioned they have the ridgid jointer. however you could probably go onto ridgid website and get the user manual for that machine, or post a question about it here on the forums - I'm sure you'll get plenty of good replies. (posting it here inside a blog about a workshop and a table saw is a bit hidden from those who might be able to help). sorry to hear about your index finger. but with proper safety practicing you should be good to go.


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## MarkwithaK (Sep 12, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


I would like to take the chance and say thanks for this. I recently purchased this saw and your tutorial really helped in the assembly process.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


you are most welcome, I'm glad this was useful, which makes posting it all worthwhile.


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## Cory (Jan 14, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


In part because of your review and this post, I bought the 4511 last night and got it most of the way together with ease. I really appreciate you taking the time to document the process and help others. It's what makes this site so great.

Have you thought about changing out the front and rear rails and the fence tube?


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


glad I could have helped. it really is a good value for the money, and a good performer while staying in 110v.

have I thought about changing the rails? - YES

But I haven't done much more than thinking about it. the materials are not super expensive, and are to a certain degree available, but I just haven't yet had the need to do that upgrade. for the time being, the 2 rail setup works for me.

if you come up with any questions, feel free to post them, or PM me.


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## papawood (Oct 31, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


Bought this saw for $299 at HD tonite, reading your blog…looks like the help will be useful!


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## cuttertwice (Jan 12, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


I just purchased a Ridgid granit top saw model R4511.from home depot for 299.00 + tax.and a friend of mine let me know of the arbor failure in some models. Does it fail due to vibration and break the shaft or does the nut com loose ? Does any one know as the company will replace it at no cost according to the call back letter. Please reply sincerly: Cuttertwice


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


the recall only affected saws with serial code between CD0829 and CD0837. if your saw is in that range, contact Ridgid and they'll set you up with a replacement of the arbor - the problem is that the arbor has a weak spot at it's edge, and when tightening up a dado at a certain widge, it'll snap off.

this is the recall notice from ridgid:

http://www.ridgid.com/Download/R4511_PR.pdf


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## thekingofspain (Jan 15, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


Thanks for the walk through. I used it today when setting up new $299 R4511. I will die with saw. Not sure how you did at in 3 hours. Probably better than me and lack of a basement. Dismantling this off a HD rental truck in 20 degree weather was not fun. Taking off the top also made is fit down the basement stairs, still heavy as could be though.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


You're welcome your majesty  enjoy the new tool and the power to cut.


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## thekingofspain (Jan 15, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


Just a note to people following the walk through and taking the top off. You probably want to do all the blade alignment steps just after putting the top back on. If you have to shim or tilt the table in a direction its much easier and lighter. You also do not have to take the thing apart again either.


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## thekingofspain (Jan 15, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


Also back to alignment, over tightening the 90 degree set screw can inhibit the table movement during blade alignment.

I would do the set screws after the blade alignment based my installation.


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## klawman (Jan 21, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


I bought the R4511 at my local HD for $299 Monday and it was delivered this morning. Operator dropped it just inside my garage. I think I made the right decision paying $75 for delivery.

I am probably being anal about setting it up, but not too happy that the intructions are for a different steel cage than mine. (There are two skids bolted to the bottom of the cage instead of steel feet. I guess I am to pretend the skids are feet.) I also noticed that only one of two bolts secured the bottom of the saw to the saw.

I can't wait to donate my 18 year old Craftsman 10" bench type table saw.


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## Woodcanuck (Mar 9, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


*PurpLev *- this is an awesome post. I just got my R4511 delivered and started unpacking. Like you, I'm doing this on my own, so seeing the whole process as you did it is just awesome.

Thanks for taking the time to document it all.

BTW…since it's been about a year, any updates on the saw and did you do anything in the way of treating the granite? I've seen a couple of comments elsewhere where some folks were waxing the surface because it had a few porous spots on it. I feel bad for the guy who used turtle wax…hopefully he doesn't get any silicone transferred to his workpieces.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


Glad it helped *Ian*, As for updates- there are none, the saw performs like the day I bought it, no complaints, no issues, just works. as for wax - I did apply (Johnson) paste wax to the top when I bought it, and have since not yet felt the need to add another coat. the granite is smooth and flat.


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## joeCommercial (May 3, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw : Unpacking and Assembly of Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So after much research and debates, I have finally charged the card, and 2 days later the delivery arrived with the new saw in the box (I opted to have it delivered from the store as opposed to pick it up myself - at 450lbs, I simply wouldn't be able to unload it myself) Delivery from HD was swift and smooth, positive and friendly guy stop at my place saturday morning, and helped me position the box in my garage - I couldn't be happier (took 5 minutes, 4.5 of those was chitchat).
> 
> ...


Nextag has a price comparisons on bearings and other replaceable products and prices are some of the lowest I have seen yet!


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*New Table Saw: Phenolic Zero Clearance Inserts and Fence Faces for Ridgid R4511*

So, New Saw, New Zero Clearance Inserts are due!

Actually I was planning on working my the Bead Box, but wanted to fine tune the table saw, and 'get it done' first, and so, the plan was to use the 5/8" phenolic (not phenolic plywood) panel that I got (I got a 1-3/8" phenolic panel to use as a router table top, and while at it, picked up some 'lighter' thinner panels as well, for inserts, plates, etc). I figured - I already have it, and might as well use it for the faces of the table saw fence as it comes faceless from the factory, and the size of my panel was adequate and "in-stock" beats buying something from the store (the other option was UHMW).

I have never worked with this material before, and aside from knowing that it's hard on tools, I knew little of what to expect so I stopped at Lowes on the way home from work last week and picked up a Dewalt 7-1/4" plywood/laminate/plastics saw blade (100teeth) - this thing is useless, and was a waste of $9 (kinda ironic as I was undecided between that one and a $5 blade from another brand - which should have worked better since the dewalt blade is beveled in, and proved to be a disaster).

I cut the panel into a 35" (length of fence) piece, and from that, I stripped 2×2-1/2" long faces. The dewalt blade is angled out (exterior diameter of blade is thinner than interior of blade) making it extremely hard to push the blade through the material as the blade seems to bind against the material trying to "expand it away from the blade". and because of this difference in thickness, it is impossible to make several passes without screwing up the cut line - luckily, the material does plane nicely - something that ended doing on all cut edges to clean it up.

I drilled the holes in the fence faces, and counterbored them for the screws and nuts - and… countered bored them on the wrong SIDE - oh well, I guess I'll have to use the nicer piece on the opposite side … sucks, but no biggy.

*Phenolic Mess:* At this point I'd like to stress that I highly recommend to STAY AWAY from working with phenolic in a woodworking shop! this thing produces fine (yellow) dust that is similar to MDF dust, gets on EVERYTHING and smells like burnt rubber (I'm going to carry that smell with me psychologically for the next couple of days) even with dust control at the source (it did reduce the amount, but still couldn't completely eliminate it).

And so, I had my 2 fence faces cut. I would have liked to have them at 3/4" so that I could route a T-slot on the top edge, but I'll compromise on the 5/8" thickness and maybe route a T-slot on the front face of them (for attachments) - as this is a material that I already have at hand and dont need to shell out another $50 for UHMW faces (another material I have not worked with as of yet)

At this point, I really wanted to quit working this material, but since the area is already covered with a yellow layer of this stuff, as I am, and I already am in the "phenolic work" way of things -I figured, I'm gonna go all the way, and finish as many zero clearance inserts out of the material as I can - 6 of them.

I opted to try using a 'regular' circ-saw blade (I put on the factory supplied porter cable blade that came with my saw) and although it is not labeled "laminate/plastics" it cut so much better… if only I had used that on my first long cuts…. oh well. live and learn.

so I cut 6 blocks for pattern-routing the insert plates. Next: routing! I clean the circular saw and put it away… the amount of yellow dust around is unbelievable.

I first used the actual factory insert plate to make a template out of 3/4" plywood which would be easier to follow around for the actual work, and if I make a mistake I don't sacrifice phenolic, but just a plywood scrap piece.

while routing the inserts, apparently the screws holding my router to the (rockler) plate lost hold, and the router fell down on the floor (router plate was clamped between 2 tables - ghetto I know, but I dont have a router table at the moment, and this is the best and safest I could do), so now I think my router base got bent/out of shape, and is useless as it's hard as hell to change height, and the get the router in and out (it also scratches the router base), I'm gonna check it out when I have more time - for now , it just sucks!

anyways, fixed that by using longer screws, and back to business…

*Phenolic Hardness:* So I guess thats what they meant when they said this is a hard material on tools - it completely chipped the Carbide on this Freud bit off:









Oh Well, add the the "sucks" list that seems to grow today.

in the end when all was done. here is what I got (finally some pictures…lol):




































OK, so, it's 7pm, the day is GONE, DONE, BURNT (with smell to prove it) - haven't had a chance to do ANYTHING on the beads box… mmmm, quickly I fumble through scrap pieces, pick up a 1/2" plywood cut off (even had a handle cutout already..NICE!) screw a once-bought-cause-I-though-I-Needed-it Incra 18" miter bar (I guess I DID need it after all - it IS a nice adjustable miter bar) and a clamp-down, put it all together, and got this cutoff sled that helped me make 1 straight cut on my rough cut glueup panels, which then I could cut the other side using the table saw fence.:










At least I was able to start using the saw, and make SOME progress on the box.


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Phenolic Zero Clearance Inserts and Fence Faces for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So, New Saw, New Zero Clearance Inserts are due!
> 
> ...


This is a nice addition to your saw. Part of the fun in getting a new tool is making new jigs and attachments for it. Thanks for the info on the phenolic.


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## Brad_Nailor (Jul 26, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Phenolic Zero Clearance Inserts and Fence Faces for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So, New Saw, New Zero Clearance Inserts are due!
> 
> ...


I thought you were going to use UHMW to face you're fence? Phenolic is nice for the inserts, but ya you are right..its hard as hell and smells like burning hair when you cut it. The granite top on the saw looking sweet in the shots, and the faces on the fence definitely give it a serious upgrade…but now you have to mess with the scales for the fence or are you a manual measure kind of guy? Rockler started selling a kit is a couple pieces of phenolic, and some leveling screws but then they recommend you buy the router bit and countersink bit they sell for phenolic. I think I might stick to using scrap pieces of Baltic birch. ...but they did give me the great idea of using the existing insert as a pattern to cut the new insert.

Do they make a 50" fence option for that table saw? The more I see it in your posts the more I like it…and the price. If it performs well that might be the saw bargain of the year! I guess you could probably buy an aftermarket bolt on 50".


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## dlux (Dec 31, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Phenolic Zero Clearance Inserts and Fence Faces for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So, New Saw, New Zero Clearance Inserts are due!
> 
> ...


Nice job on the zero clearance plates and the fence face. I thought I was going to get away with not having to make any faces for my fence since I have a unifence, but b/c the granite isn't think enough on the 4511, I'm not going to be able to use my unifence so it looks like I'll be cutting some zero clearance plates AND fence faces.

Of course with the WW show coming to Houston this week, I might just hold off on that in case they have something that I "need" and could help me with this.

Let me know when/where you find a new belt for yours. I've been looking (just at a couple of places) but haven't been able to track one down yet.

This saw really does rock!


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Phenolic Zero Clearance Inserts and Fence Faces for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So, New Saw, New Zero Clearance Inserts are due!
> 
> ...


Thanks for all the comments!

*Brad* - I saw that phenolic insert kit from Rockler a couple of years ago, but was never too excited about the price- for my previous saw, I just made the inserts out of scrap MDF - worked GREAT (and at $0 you can't complain). This time around I just happened to have the phenolic material that I was going to use for the saw fence (and later for my going to be shopmade router table insert) so I figured I'll make some ZCI that will match the fence face - In all honesty - I like these, they look like a set, and they are GLASS SMOOTH. just a PITA to make…

As far as 50" fences for this saw - Ridgid doesnt sell any, but several people (on the Ridgid forums) have already fabricated 40"+ fences for this saw. so far it is performing great for me, things that my previous saw would have to call in some 'extra juice' this one doesn't even flinch. the controls are smooth and I like the larger wheels, the mobile base is phenomenal - It's the first time I use the Ridgid Herc-U-Lift, and it IS all that it's hyped to be. the table top is smooth and nice to work on. Dust controll goes straight to my DC, so far works well - not perfect, but I dont think any saw has a 'perfect' DC setup that leave everything clean at the end of the day. so far the more I use it the more I'm liking this saw - and at this price - it IS unbeatable. I will write a full on review once I get more experience with it… not much shop time lately, but I'll get something out there soon enough.

*Pat* - glad you liked that sled, it's super simple, and super works great for that purpose… maybe when I have time I can build a 'standard' sled.. so far, no time for that thought.

*dlux*. so far I'm outta luck with the belt, I couldn't locate it in any automotive supply store, and the only one that might be similar is a gates 290j6 - but I can only find this one online, and not being able to see and compare it to mine, I'm kinda hesitant on ordering it blindly. since this is not your usual v-belt it might be a bit harder to find a replacement - although, looking at the original one, it doesn't look too low-tech, and so far, I'm just going to use it as is while keeping an eye for alternatives. Let me know if you find anything interesting at the WW show..


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## Timbo (Aug 21, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Phenolic Zero Clearance Inserts and Fence Faces for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So, New Saw, New Zero Clearance Inserts are due!
> 
> ...


Nice looking inserts but based on your experience I think I will look for an alternative material!!! Just purchased a 2" square tube 6ft. long for $20 to replace the two piece rail on my saw. I'll post some pics when I get it mounted.


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## dlux (Dec 31, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Phenolic Zero Clearance Inserts and Fence Faces for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So, New Saw, New Zero Clearance Inserts are due!
> 
> ...


Looking forward to seeing those pics, Timbo. I've heard of some guys doing that on the Ridgid forum, but haven't seen it yet.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Phenolic Zero Clearance Inserts and Fence Faces for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So, New Saw, New Zero Clearance Inserts are due!
> 
> ...


Nice looking saw.


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## cowdog80 (Oct 14, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Phenolic Zero Clearance Inserts and Fence Faces for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So, New Saw, New Zero Clearance Inserts are due!
> 
> ...


Color me impressed


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Phenolic Zero Clearance Inserts and Fence Faces for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So, New Saw, New Zero Clearance Inserts are due!
> 
> ...


Good job Sharon


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## normanfans (Jan 30, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Phenolic Zero Clearance Inserts and Fence Faces for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So, New Saw, New Zero Clearance Inserts are due!
> 
> ...


This is way too advanced for me, but I'd like to know how often you need to replace the blade?


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Phenolic Zero Clearance Inserts and Fence Faces for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So, New Saw, New Zero Clearance Inserts are due!
> 
> ...


I am a weekend woodworker,and lately not many weekends at that. I am still using my 1st WWII blade that I got about 3 years ago, and it doesnt even need sharpening as of yet. so the answer would really depend on how much wood you cut, and what type of cuts, and wood you are cutting, but not something that I would worry about as it's not too often that a blade requires replacement even if you are a full time production house.


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## CaptainChemical (Jul 30, 2013)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Phenolic Zero Clearance Inserts and Fence Faces for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So, New Saw, New Zero Clearance Inserts are due!
> 
> ...


Tried my hand at cutting a small strip for a Key on a saw guide and I found it to be very dangerous to work with!
It is soft and pliable as it heats up during machining, making it difficult to safely secure. I wasted a few pieces during the learning curve and decided that a wooden key was much safer!

FYI, the dust from this materials is very harmful to your health, so ensure you use an APr mask and good vac setup.
Most of all, stay safe


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Phenolic Zero Clearance Inserts and Fence Faces for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So, New Saw, New Zero Clearance Inserts are due!
> 
> ...


*CaptainChemical* - I agree and believe I stated it in many of my posts - the dust from phenolic is horrible. The only "safety issue" that I could think of other than that is the fact that this material is super slippery so you have to a good grip on it when machining, but it is far from pliable, and depending on which phenolic you are using - most are heat resistant and do not transfer it at all (some are used in circuit boards where electric conductivity and heat transfer are one of the reason phenolic is used as it does not allow either of those to happen).


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*

So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.

solution: homemade riving knife made out of 1/8" plate of 6063 aluminum:
*EDIT: If I'd do this again, I'd go with material which is 0.090" in thickness to match the factory material thickness*










the height of the knife is lower than the 10" blade by 1 tooth height and fits perfectly without a need for tools in the slot for it:










To make it I got a 6"x12" plate of aluminum ($13) that would yield 2 riving knives (if anyone wants the 2nd one…lol). made a template of the original splitter on cardboard (easiest to work with, and replace if screwed up). then I transfered that template to a couple of hardboard scraps I had lying around (masonite) which are more ridgid and would then be used to transfer the shape to the aluminum. I did a couple of the masonite templates just so that I can play around with different shapes, heights, etc. I ended up sticking to the "simple" square edge shape - cause it was less work:










for the aluminum work, I used a dremel type tool (the bosch version) to cut the aluminum first to rough shape, then closer to the masonite template, and I ended up using a file to finesse the shape and smooth out the lines- followed by some 400grit and 600grit sand paper to smooth it out to the touch and clean any burrs.










Fits like a glove, and works great!

P.S. working with aluminum (and previously working with phenolic (see previous blog)) just reminded me how much I like working with WOOD, how forgiving it is, how easy it is to work with, and how nicer it is to the touch and smell…

Edit: I was asked about how to cut the opening for the riving knife in the zero clearance plate, so here goes:

I cut the opening for the riving knife using a jigsaw (I used a file to clean it up as well)- safe no danger operation - and no kick backs.

this also leaves the back of the riving knife in tact, and not split in 2 like factory supplied plates are, which makes their back less rigid.


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## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


What did you use to cut the shape? Carbide Router Bit?


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## kosta (Mar 20, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


is that the grainite saw because if it is you are going to have problems


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


sIKE - I used the Bosch RotoZip with the small wheel cutters to cut as close as I could to the final shape - the fact that those cutter wheels are so small, made it possible to get real close to the line. then I used the rotozip sanding spindle thingies… both tools I had to rotate through wheels (would break/just run out) and the sanding sleeves like crazy… but since I don't really have much use for those anymore, this was a good opportunity to clean house.

kosta - yes, this is a granite top, if you'd go to the previous blog you'd see. and I must say your comment is just useless… unless you just said that out of spite- if you really 'know' of problems - sharing that info, and detailing "what those problems are" would be helpful, but just saying "you'll have problems" doesnt really do much good… but thanks anyways. if you refer to the granite chipping ? yes, I know about that, and so far I haven't had any issues with that - most likely it'll happen either during install, or at the miter slot - I'm already past the install , so I'm just being careful with the miter slot not much more I can do. if you refer to the fact that I won't have rust on it - that's a great problem! cause I live in an area with high moisture.


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## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


Have you thought about using your router table and bit like this? Would just have to square up the corners and make sure you had a face shield….


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## gfixler (Feb 21, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


Wow, Lev, you're hardcore! Nicely done. Now you're a machinist, if you weren't already one 

And what of this dark fence and throat plate wood? What is it? It looks really nice.


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## JMatt (Mar 2, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


Kosta: I've got this saw and, I too, am wondering what these 'problems' are that you speak of. Overall, I love the saw.

Nice riving knife. I should make a template in cad for my little CNC. Thanks for the detailed pictures too.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the responses.

sIKE, thanks for the link, I didnt even think about going that route (no pun intended). Gary - I'm not much of a machinist, and don't attempt to be one, just wanted to get this done for the saw so that I can use it safely. I dont like the idea of metal shavings flying at me… )

Gary - the material for the zero clearance insert and fence is canvas phenolic- read my previous blog in this series about THAT experience. (gonna stick with wood).


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## Brad_Nailor (Jul 26, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


Hey does that saw blade have sharp teeth on it? If it does your gonna have problems… :>)
I just figured I would throw that meatball out there with no explanation or information to back it up..

Nice job on the riving knife….hey is that riving knife made out of aluminium? If it is…


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


Brad , thanks for the bundle of information there… I already spoke personally to the local lumber supplier, and have a written guarantee that if I accidently cut the lumber on the shaaaa'p teeth of the blade, he'll replace the lumber for me no questions asked!

and I already know about all the trouble of using aluminum for riving knives… but thanks anyways ;o)

LOL


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## kosta (Mar 20, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


is the granite flatter then cast iron


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## phil619 (Dec 13, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


The Square shape definitely looks the best. It gives it a real custom look. Kinda racing look. Some times simplier just looks better. You,ve really done some nice add-ons. 
So whats next on the trick-out list?
Does Ridgid offer a low profile knife as an accessory or did you not want to wait the weeks it may take to get one? 
I have the TS3650 and absolutely love it. My wife thinks I love it more than her. Between you and me, she's probably right.
One last thing, did the saw come with dust collection, because if it did …..,

So you think we killed it or should we keep on going ?


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## phil619 (Dec 13, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


My wife just told me, "Well at least you know how to turn your saw on."

Well fellas.., I'm not going to lie to you, I have to give her props on that one.

Good one hunny, Good one.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


kosta. granite being flatter than cast iron is a very general idea. it really depends on the manufacturing process and it's tolerances. BUT with that in mind - referring to the material of choice - machinists that use the most precise measurements use granite surfaces as a reference. granite does not get affected by environmental influences (humidity, temperature, etc) but it IS more brittle than cast iron.

diego - actually mine came with dust control…. I guess I should return it huh? actually what got me to feel comfortable buyng a ridgid machine was all the rave reviews from all you TS3660 owners… and I'm glad I listened to you guys - this is one heck of a machine. next on the list is upgrade the rip fence to a one piece rail + builtin drawers (similar to what they have on the new Unisaws… I really liked that idea)...but that might take a while, as I really want to work some wood, and get back on track with my projects (now that I have a safer saw to work with). wifey definitely earned her props on that one… def. did.

thanks for the comments


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## Brad_Nailor (Jul 26, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


Purp….
I had a chance to take a little trip to my local big orange box and low and behold they had one of the granite top saws on display! I was so excited to be able to check it out. I wanted to ask you..do you feel that the mobile base is sturdy enough and does it have good mobility? The saw I was looking at didn't seem to be very mobile and the wheels didn't lock very well in the up position, but upon further inspection i noticed that one of the wheels was actually bent 90 degrees out of position. It doesn't surprise me that its broken being out there for everyone to mess with, but it is a little unnerving to see that it could bend that badly. They didn't have the fence with the saw so I wasn't able to check it out, but aside from the troubles with the mobile base otherwise I thought it is a real nice saw for the money.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


Brad. I'm not real surprised, people at HD usually don't seem to know how to put those things together to begin with, no to mention that too many people come to HD (apparently) to "test how much force is required to break that tool"...

those legs and wheels are sturdy enough. when installed properly they are as easy to operate as a well oiled machine, and are smooth to roll around (my floors are not straight nor smooth). the lock holds well, and once you unlock it and bring the saw down, all 4 legs are contacting the floor making is more stable then those that use 3 wheels (where 2 wheels always stay in contact with the floor).

yes- it is definitely a nice saw, and even more so for it's price.


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## blackcherry (Dec 7, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


This is a must try idea great info. PurpLev, and congrats on your new T-saw good luck on all your future projects…thanks for the idea…Blkcherry


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## glassyeyes (Apr 14, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


I bought this saw, too. I like what you did for the riving knife. I haven't gotten quite as far as you have; I've had trouble getting the right wing installed. Gardner in Ohio supplies parts for Ridgid, and had to try three times to ship a new right wing. It STILL won't pull flush with the main table, and I had to shim it .040" in front. It is proud by 027" in back, which required shimming the rear rail on the main table and left wing. I added a four-foot, 1/8" steel strap to give some support for the rear rail, since the split design offers no mechanical support to the wings.

I found Home Depot, Ridgid, and Gardner to be very helpful with this problem, although Gardner seems to have a hard time packing these properly. The wing weighs 52 pounds. The first two came wrapped in two layers of bubble wrap, stuffed into an oversized box, and were padded with a few pieces of newspaper. The first arrived in pieces; the second was chipped. The third was better packed. The Gardner quality control person called on the third one, and followed up; a high level of service. It seems they get these wings in bulk, unpadded, stacked on a pallet, from the manufacturer. He said they intend to pre-pack the remaining wings so this doesn't recur.

GARDNER SELLS THE BELT, SHIPPED, FOR ABOUT $23. It's a poly-v belt, 6-ribbed, 29.5 inches long.

A carefully planed hardwood spline helped stiffen the two-piece front rail.

A Freud Premier Fusion 10" 40-tooth general-purpose blade worked extremely well on plywood with a thin veneer face-no tearout whatsoever.

Recommendation? I'd have to give it a qualified one, to be sure. BUT YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR. It seems like apples and oranges to compare it to the Steel City, at what-$1300?


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


glasseyes, sounds like the problem wasn't with the wing, but with the main granite table top - maybe the threaded inserts on the right side weren't installed properly causing the right wing to be toublesome to flush with the main table?

As for the belt - if it's from Gardner, I assume its the same belt that came with the saw. it looks like a decent quality belt, and good to know they carry a replacement should one need it. from what I hear from others Gardner does provide good service, which is another good thing about the Ridgid tools.

P.S. I wasn't comparing it with the Steelcity $1300 saw (#35900G) but with their newer models 35920 and 35930 - which is the same as the ridgid - I presume all 3 are coming from the same production line.

blackcherry - you're welcome, I actually posted the template for this riving knife as a PDF on the ridgid forums.. I couldn't do it here, since you can't post PDFs on LJ… let me know if you want it, I can also email it to you.


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## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


Hi Purplev;

Very nice job.

Glad to see how seriously you take the need for safety.

Your finger will thank you!

Lee


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## glassyeyes (Apr 14, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


PurpLev, I'm pretty sure it was the wing. The T-channels underneath the main table and wings were not cut into the granite at the same distance from the front edge on all three pieces (they differed by roughly 1/16th of an inch).

I only mentioned the belt from Gardner because I couldn't find any other source that could supply a replacement belt, just as you mentioned. I don't know how poly-v belts are specified.

Thanks for the infromation about the newer Steel City saws-I wasn't aware of them.

I couldn't find any aluminum sheet stock locally; where did you get yours? (I cut up a damaged aluminum yardstick, and it doesn't look anywhere near as nice as yours turned out!)


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


Thanks Lee, as I mentioned some time ago, after getting used to working with a riving knife, it's hard to give it up, and in my case - not gonna happen.

glasseyes, I got my aluminum on eBay - like you, I couldn't locate anything local to me (I'm sure I could, I'm just lazy, and don't really have the time nor energy for that, eBay was just too easy). just look for 1/8" aluminum plate (since a full sheet is too much of an overhead).


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## glassyeyes (Apr 14, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


I've looked at every photo and parts drawing of the Steel City saws that I could locate. The riving knife setup -from the clamp, to the bracket, to the base of the knives themselves, looks identical to the Ridgid R4511, so I took a chance-I called Steel City and ordered the 2.5 mm and 3.0 mm riving knives. They were $11 each, plus $3.95 credit card charge and $8.00 shipping. I'll let everyone know if they fit, or if I just threw away 34 bucks.

Part # SC10150 for the 2.5 mm knife, SC10151 for the 3.0 mm
Phone # to order Steel City parts: 1-877-724-8665


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


glasseyes, keeps us posted how that works for you, some people on the ridgidforums took that road before, and found that the SC parts were slightly thicker at the base, and wouldn't fit into the slot on the trunnion of the Ridgid - they had to sand it down to fit.

I would think that it should fit as it seems like it's the same saw indeed. even more, there are 4 screws that hold the bracket for the knife, and I think they can be adjusted for a tighter/looser hold on the knife, so thats another possibility.

Also other's have noted that Steel City wouldn't sell you the parts unless you provided them with your saw's serial number to make sure it's for a SC saw and not another brand… what the h3ll? isn't it about selling something for a profit to someone that is interested in paying for it? glad to hear it has become easier to get those parts though.


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## glassyeyes (Apr 14, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


The Steel City riving knives fit just fine. You can sand the bottom if you want to, but it's easy to just back off the four screws on the riving knife clamp, slide in the thicker knife, then re-tighten them until you get a snug slip-fit. The locking knob, by it's design, puts plenty of pressure on both the knife and the plate to hold everyting in place.

Regarding ordering them-I just told the guy at Steel City that I needed both the knives for the 35900 series saws. If they want the serial #, just tell them it's too far to the shop!


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## azor (Dec 21, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


Purp,

Nice job with the photos and accompanying explanations. Have you done any checking of the blade [miter slot] alignment or rotor run out? What do you think of the miter saw alignment adjustment feature? I found out today they have one of these at my local HD so plan to go look at it tomorrow.

Dick


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


azor - arbor runout on mine was 0.000" - not bad. blade to miter slot wasn't applicable as I took the table off when I assembled the saw (see previous blog), but since the blade is mounted to the cabinet, it was really easy to align the table/miter slot to the blade.

This is a great saw! definitely worth getting at homedepot this week for $450 (thats what I paid for mine) out the door! comparable saws in the market are at the $700+

I will write a review shortly. but I recommend you get the saw now and take advantage of the HD powertool sale!


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## EdWood (Apr 29, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


I just called Steel City to order the Riving Knives. I got a pleasant response but was informed both knives are back ordered for 35 days. He told me they will have an on-line ordering system up and running in a week so I am going to wait. I also have a email request in at Lee Way Workshop who makes his own knives and probably has one to fit.

-Ed


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## azor (Dec 21, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


I went into HD a few days ago. The sale must be off. They wanted $599 for it. They want $80 to deliver it. The wings were poorly aligned to the table, but even the sales guy thought it to be just poor assembly. 
Purp, Thanks for the alignment info. I enjoy your blogs. Keep it up.

Dick


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## chrisexv6 (May 3, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


azor: sale is not off yet (ends May 6).

The saw is 599, which you would get a 75.00 discount off of. If you break 600, you get 150 off.

If you have nothing else large to buy, "pneumatic fasteners" are included in the final total to get the instant rebate. So pick up a cheap set of brads (I found 18ga "pins" by porter cable for 4 bux) to put yourself over 600.00.

Whole she-bang cost me 453+tax.


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## glassyeyes (Apr 14, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


FOLLOW-UP ON INSTALLING THE RIVING KNIVES-

I previously suggested slip-fitting the clamp bracket. DONT. BAD IDEA! Mine shifted after jjust a few cuts. Sand it to fit!


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


I checked out the previous Ridgid model for a student of mine and the fence was as smooth as butter and locked very nice. I really like my magnetic feather boards so granite might not work for me.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


a1jim, I think the fence on the ridgid contractor table saw is easier and smoother to work, and locks better. just based on the design (the new one is t-square, with the usual side effects). tThat said - this saw proves itself to be a great investment. def. more than good enough for my serious-hobbyst needs. the fence on this one is also smooth, and locks tight in place. my experience has taught me though, not to lock it all the way down, as this will cause the t-square head to skew the fence slightly to the left and move it from it's set distance. but if you lock it just enough to hold it in place, it'll lock tight, and not shift. as far as using magnetic devices - cast iron is def. the way to go. I don't have any, so do have a problem with the granite, which holds itself great so far - nice smooth, and almost maintenance free. (I did give it a nice buff of wax to make it extra smooth - which it is).

glasseyes - I'm surprised it shifts?!? did the screws came off? or what exactly happened?

azor - I believe the sale is till the 5/5 … worth checking out like chris said - those $3 pneumatic nails (which I use anyways on a regular basis) dropped the price another $75… to final of $450. as I stated in previous blog - I chose to have it delieved to my place for a flat rate of $65 (HD flat rate delivery for x amounts of miles from store - gets higher as you are further away) - but considering the shipping rates of a Sawstop ($300-$400) and extra tailgate fees of $75 (normal on all machinery anywhere) this is peanuts.


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## glassyeyes (Apr 14, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


PurpLev, I haven't had time to take it back apart yet. Just looking at it, I can't tell of the whole bracket slipped (I had to adjust it to get the knife aligned), or the clamping plate loosened. I just don't think it was smart of me to mess with the design. Third, I'm not sure the Freud Fusion blade is a true full-kerf design. The riving knife seems awfully snug in the kerf, even in manmade materials. I'm going to recheck the bracket alignment, then bolt down the clamp pad and sand the end of the knife. I may sand the entire side of the knife for clearance, as well, but that would be the last thing I'd try. I'll follow up when I've got more to tell.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


Purp, How are your knives working? Have you thought about adding a kick back guard to them?


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


Topamax - they work fantastic. I use a forrest WWII regular kerf, so the 1/8" material works for me- although if I would do it again, I'll go with a material which is 0.090" thick for a more versatile compatibility with other blades.

I use this mostly as is with no pawls since I use it for both through and non-through cuts without the need to modify guards. the riving knife concept prevents kick back from happening, so there shouldn't be a need for the pawls, although they are a good extra reassurance. the full blade guard has the pawls on it - this is just my low profile knife.


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## DustMaster (Mar 12, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


If anyone is interested and dont want to go to the trouble of making them yourself I have made a few of them and have listed them on craigslist and ebay.
I use .090" 6061-T6 aluminum.
If anyone on Lumberjocks would like one I would knock a couple of dollars off the price. Shoot me a message through lumberjocks if you're interested.
If you want to see pics of them please visit my ebay ad (stclair_woodworks) or let me know in your message and i'll send you pics.


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## princeton (Jan 18, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


I was looking at your design and I think I might need this one. I removed my splitter/guard because of the hustle of removing and reinstalling it for specific cuts. ONe question though since I am new t woodworking. Will it ever interfere with jigs such as a shop made tenon jig?


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


*princeton*- the riving knife is set a tad bit lower than the 10" blade. so the riving knife will not be interfering with any operation that uses a 10" blade (except a plunge cut- which I'm not an advocate of and do not perform myself) 
the only time I have to take the riving knife off is when using a 8" (or 6") dado blade as the riving knife is higher than the 8" blade height. however in those cases, it's quite simple and quick to take the knife off when you replace the blades (since you are already opening the throat off) and back on when I put the 10" blade back on.


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## Worth (Dec 30, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


PurpLev, could you email me the PDF of the riving knife? I could not find it on the Rigid Forum site. Thanks, Worth [email protected]


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## Gerry1 (Jul 12, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


Purplev,

Great idea. I really like what you did with the riving knife. I have the Ridgid TS3650, and have bought the micro-jig splitter, but have not installed it as yet. I do not think there is a riving knife available for my saw. Does anyone know if there is one available? Thanks!


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


Gerry, Thanks.

the only solution that I'm aware of for saws with no riving knives is the BORK (Bolt On Riving Knife) which can be retrofitted to older saws. although the splitter does not move exactly like a riving knife (goes up and down in a circular motion as opposed to straight up and down) it's as close as you can get, and the splitter DOES stay close behind the blade like a true riving knife does.


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## Stevelegh (Feb 4, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


Great saw and your saw bench is brilliant. I am interested in the safety features as my workshop often has younger children hunting for bits and pieces. I do not want to discourage our teens from the workshop, however their safety in the area is paramount. Any advice would be welcomed!


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


Steve, This particular saw has some good safety features that help prevent accidents from happening such as the riving knife which helps prevent kickback, a blade guard which helps keep your body from the blade, and a lock out switch which can render the saw powerless so that it cannot be turned on unattended.

that said - depending on the age of the kids, I would encourage them and instruct them more about using hand tools starting with the less sharp tools (or at least the tools with the least amount of exposed cutting edges) and keep them away from power tools. I would then follow up at a certain age and let them use power tools while being monitored closely by you, and once they reach a certain maturity with the tools and themselves they can then operate the machines as they please.

this of course is very generalized but is how I would probably will follow up with the subject at hand. I hope this helps.


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## bigike (May 25, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


very neat idea.


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## paulsalisbury (Apr 1, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


Not only does this site provide guidence on how to proceed with your wood work projects, but as shown here, it is a mecca for the best tools to buy at the best prices across the country. Keep up great work!


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## Worth (Dec 30, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


I found a strip of .090 aluminum at a sheet metal fabricator shop long enough for 8 knives. I traced the pattern and cut with a jigsaw slightly larger and then used a rotary file for fine tuning. If anyone would like one, I can make it for $30. [email protected]
I also cut the phenolic zero clearance insert with the jigsaw like PurpLev's last hint. Works great.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


So, did we ever iron out the beef with granite? Is this just a "I don't like granite" thing? I've got granite tops on my jointer and if there's some magical twisting/bowing phenomenon, I'd like to know about it. I commonly use it as a reference flat (like machinists do). If it's more than Rigid-hating, I'd love to hear more.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


I dunno *Al*, all I can say the granite topped TS is the only machine I can go to the shop in the 'once-in-a-while-when-schedule-permits' and not have to worry about the top having rust spots and having to touch it up… I come in - turn it on, make some cuts - done. the TS is ready for action anytime I need it.


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


I believe one beef was cracking… I think HD and other retailers got lots of returns…


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


Well, if you crank down the mouting hardware, I'm sure it will crack. I have a small shop and when I'm building something larger than a breadbox, I swing big timbers around and bash everything in sight. I've had more than a few Kerplunks onto my granite top and I can't see any damage. I like the cold feel of stone on my hands. I'm in the process of upgrading my kitchen counters and the fiance' wants granite. I want concrete, so we'll see who wins.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


I think it's similar to other "new ideas" that were brought into the table in recent years to challenge the already sound and working TS mfg process and their profit margins. I think it's just that companies with an already setup process don't care much to make changes and increase/change their build lines/machinery just to introduce something new when their already running production is bringing in income at the end of the month - people don't like change in general and definitely not when they need to revamp their working setup and invest in new machines.

for what it's worth, I dont know if I would change my ways to introduce something that doesnt necessarily show any improvement in quality. but at the same time, I'm really liking the granite top on the TS.

*Al* - look into Ceasar-Stone. looks like granite, strong like granite - does not require the maintenance that granite does though…


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


Ceasar Stone. I will investigate. As a fan of Mel Brooke's History of the World Part 2, I tend to like anything involving Ceasar


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *New Table Saw: Low Profile Riving Knife for Ridgid R4511*
> 
> So among the few shotcuts that were made by providing the R4511 at the market price was the fact that it only came with a splitter+integrated blade guard but no additional low profile riving knives (for non through cuts). for the price this saw comes at - one can't complain, and the fact is- it does have a riving knife mount system which is a good base to start with.
> 
> ...


aaah. good old Mel…those were the days.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*so, what's the plane? *

I guess this is a tool gloat more than anything.

I like hand planing boards, but sometimes, and especially when trying to get a board to a certain thickness (while keeping it straight) I just want to be able to throw the board through an infeed and automate that process. especially since I'm coming up with some projects that require large/long boards to be planed down.

so, with a budget in mind, I keep an eye on craigslist from time to time. the only things I've seen in my planned budget ($100-$200) were some old Delta lunch box planers, I read good reviews on those here, and was perfectly happy if I could get one of those. some looked more descent than others, but some just screamed "needs TLC" - and I don't have much time for that nowadays… so I kept my eye open, but didn't bite on any of those. I would have liked to have the Dewalt 13" planer - but that one is way out of my budget… at $650 market price, and $400+ used… not gonna happen.

until last weekend.

saw a dewalt 13" 735 planer for sale on craiglist. now the price is over my planned budget, but it detailed that it comes with the dewalt roller stand, and a few spare blade sets - so I figured it's worth bumping the budget for those added benefits.

I contacted the seller, assuming that for that price it's probably long gone by now, but was glad to have gotten a response back that it's still available. made plans to meet, and I took with me a cutoff piece of oak to make a test run to make sure nothing is out of place. the seller stated that it had very minimal use as it was a backup machine- but you never know. best to check for yourself.

when I arrived, I saw that the planer actually includes not only the stand, but also the infeed/outfeed tables, and the guy also threw in a clear 4" 10' hose with it… not bad , not bad at all.

I ran the oak through it taking off 1/32"... ran it twice, and was very pleased with the finish surface.. much better than I had anticipated (first time using a power planer)

needless to say I now have a new planer blocking the last piece of empty space I had in the garage…. time to reorganize the work space so that I'll have room to stand there as well.










I'll write a full review once I'm more experienced with the unit but so far I really like it's features - automatic cutterhead lock, repeatable thickness stops (similar to the Ridgid repeat-a-cut concept), and large handwheels.










this thing is LOUD! the loudest of all the machines I've ever experienced with as of yet. and HEAVY at 92lbs… not quite as portable as the others I was looking at - but it can be a positive thing.

the mobile base I must say is excellent - it rolls smoothly, locks securely, and has a shelf for extra storage, so the space is not completely wasted.










my only concern is that it's of the earlier machines that hit the market, and from reading reviews they seemed to have had some QA issues back then… I hope this one was not one of those, although for the price, I can still break even.

does any of you that use this have any experience as to how long those blades can last before they need to be replaced with a new set (Ballpark)?


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## Brad_Nailor (Jul 26, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *so, what's the plane? *
> 
> I guess this is a tool gloat more than anything.
> 
> ...


Nice get…thats a great planer and you got all the accessories for it. I have seen a few on CL but if you don't jump right on them they disappear immediately..
All the reviews I have read on this machine, the main complaint is the knives dull out fast….but I think thats a product more of how people use it….one reviewer was barking that the knives dulled out after he put 200 BF of white oak through it trying to take 1/8" passes…duh! I know several guys who own this planer and if you maintain it properly, and take light passes it works great.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *so, what's the plane? *
> 
> I guess this is a tool gloat more than anything.
> 
> ...


Hey congrats on the new planner .How long is tough , It depends on how much you use it an what you plane. If you run 400 ln ft of hard rock maple every day . your probably going to replace or sharpen your blades every 4-6 weeks if you use it like most hobbyist make it 6-12 months hard to say for sure but it's a ballpark.


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## JimmyNate (Mar 24, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *so, what's the plane? *
> 
> I guess this is a tool gloat more than anything.
> 
> ...


Congratulations, this is supposed to be a nice planer. I think you can slow the cuts per inch down on this model and save your blades a little…then you get to take your #4 to it and smooth it out by hand.


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## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *so, what's the plane? *
> 
> I guess this is a tool gloat more than anything.
> 
> ...


Well, congrats on the find.

Hand planning can be a real pain on larger projects.

Be sure to wear hearing protection!

Lee


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## kosta (Mar 20, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *so, what's the plane? *
> 
> I guess this is a tool gloat more than anything.
> 
> ...


thats a really cool planer


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## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *so, what's the plane? *
> 
> I guess this is a tool gloat more than anything.
> 
> ...


I"ve got the 734. 12.5 inch.. love it. I don't know about the blades. They seem to last.. I've only built a few furniture projects though.


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## pommy (Apr 17, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *so, what's the plane? *
> 
> I guess this is a tool gloat more than anything.
> 
> ...


where's the pic's mate

andy


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *so, what's the plane? *
> 
> I guess this is a tool gloat more than anything.
> 
> ...


Thanks guys… I'm not going to be a heavy user, so just trying to estimate how long it would take me until I dull those knives (in BF) - I don't mind finishing it on my #4… as long as it's just smoothing out - I'm all up for that keeping some hand planing for a perfect finish. I guess I was trying to see if I should hold on to the extra set of knives, or if I'm better of selling them to reduce the overhead expense.

*Lee*- WHAT DID YOU SAY? ... it's actually quite annoying, I used to work religiously with ear protection, but since I switched the tablesaw from a direct drive motor to a belt driven one, I find that I sometimes will "forget" to get the ear protection on (I usually do though…) but with this beaast - there's no way I'll forget… it's LOUD, like "HEY I"M DOING SOME WOODWORKING HERE" loud…lol

*Daniel* - I think I might end up sharing your experience… they'll last (I hope).

and *Andy* - stop being so materialistic…. pics pics pics…. they all look alike (but this one looks better)...lol. pic is coming… just couldn't wait to blurt the text out first mate.


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## gfixler (Feb 21, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *so, what's the plane? *
> 
> I guess this is a tool gloat more than anything.
> 
> ...


Glad to hear it, Lev! I still don't understand how you guys accomplish anything with planes. I'm convinced it's witch magic.

Oh, and yes. My Craftsman 13" planer is so loud, I actually avoid using it if at all possible. Something made it get louder awhile ago, too. I think something might be rubbing. I wear ear protection pretty much only when I use the planer, as all my other tools are comfortably quiet. This one actually makes me feel bad for my neighbors whenever I turn it on.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *so, what's the plane? *
> 
> I guess this is a tool gloat more than anything.
> 
> ...


Gary, I never did either - until I experienced what a sharp blade is… and what a tuned up plane is - took many years... with several failures, and getting back at it, till it just clicked… and its not white magic- it's actually black magic when you consider all the metal you have to take off from the blade and sole to get it tuned up properly…


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## ellen35 (Jan 1, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *so, what's the plane? *
> 
> I guess this is a tool gloat more than anything.
> 
> ...


Congratulations on the new addition! These lunch box (not that I would eat anything out of it!) planers are so convenient! I have the Ridgid and use it a lot. I am still on my first set of blades (reversible). I trim a fair amount of walnut, maple and purple heart. Works like a charm. That machine makes me wear hearing protection! They are all loud!
Ellen


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## gfixler (Feb 21, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *so, what's the plane? *
> 
> I guess this is a tool gloat more than anything.
> 
> ...


Lev, I'm going to get that book. I've been wondering where in the world people ever learn about these things, as being in LA, in an office-with-computer job, literally no one I know knows anything at all about this stuff, or they're just keeping it all secret 

Come to think of it, they probably are keeping it secret. Last year I got into trees, and being me, and talking about my interests openly and often, I found that everyone had all kinds of tree knowledge, collectively way more than me, but also individually, it seemed most people knew 5 or 10 trees I didn't, and things about ones I did know that I did not. I bet I'm going to find out several of my friends are hand planing experts once I get this book. Thanks for the links! (btw, your first two links have the word "really" at the end of them, but I removed it after clicking, and they worked).


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *so, what's the plane? *
> 
> I guess this is a tool gloat more than anything.
> 
> ...


so, I was really smoothing things out with that #3, and I restored a #2 I got from eBay last night, and … oh , hey - here come Gary… shhhhhh….... Hey Gary - wassup? how you like that new E-nternet thing? ... yeah… have a good one….. so anyways… I got a new Hock blade for it..

*Gary*- you should start eavesdropping for the good info at the office … LOL

and thanks for the link pointers… I fixed that.

Thanks *ellen*, I was thinking about the Ridgid as I've seem to find they make good woodworking products all in all, when this opportunity knocked, and I just couldn't say no - heck, I didn't even try to counteroffer the guy… I felt he was more than reasonable.


----------



## pommy (Apr 17, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *so, what's the plane? *
> 
> I guess this is a tool gloat more than anything.
> 
> ...


your always first to gloat mate lol…....


----------



## Darell (Jul 23, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *so, what's the plane? *
> 
> I guess this is a tool gloat more than anything.
> 
> ...


I"ve had my 735 for just over 5 years now. While not a heavy user I've put a lot of wood through it in that time including a pickup load of walnut, quite a bit of red oak and smaller amounts of purple heart, zebrawood, a couple of wide pieces of teak, hackberry, soft maple and a small amount of hard maple and bubinga as well as some pine. I have no idea how many board feet all total but it's a lot. I flipped the knives a couple of years ago for the first time and I'm still on the original set of knives. Have had a new set hanging on the wall in the shop for a year and a half now and haven't had to use them yet. I only take small cuts, 1/32 or so. It takes more time to get to thickness that way but it's easier on the machine and the knives. The knives on it still plane very smooth with no tear out so I've not seen the need to replace them. I have the infeed and outfeed tables and they work great. Just be sure to keep an eye on them and keep them leveled up to prevent snipe. Yeah, it's loud but not as bad as my router. Add in the DC and it definately calls for hearing protection. I use protection with all my tools anyway so that's not an issue for me. Hope you enjoy it I sure like mine.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *so, what's the plane? *
> 
> I guess this is a tool gloat more than anything.
> 
> ...


Thanks *Darell*, sounds good to me. your description of lumber you ran through it gave me the rough idea of what I was referring to - thanks. I take very light passes on my jointer as well, so I will be doing the same on this one- 1/16"- 1/32". do you usually work on the higher speed, or lower speed?


----------



## Timbo (Aug 21, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *so, what's the plane? *
> 
> I guess this is a tool gloat more than anything.
> 
> ...


Sweet machine, Good find! I don't notice much difference between the high and low speed on the wood, just run it on high, then switch to low on the last pass or two. As Darrel said, the infeed / outfeed tables make all the difference with snipe, and keep them waxed.


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## loupitou06 (Apr 17, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *so, what's the plane? *
> 
> I guess this is a tool gloat more than anything.
> 
> ...


Hi,

From what I could gather around the web, it seems like the very first units of this thickness planer came with good quality blades. Now I apparently got a newer ones because the fresh edge of the other side of the blades dulled in less than a month of regular but "hobby type" usage.
For the story, I bought mine on Craigslist just like you with dull blades the the previous owner did not know the blades are reversible.
Anyway, I searched online a bit and found these blades :
(the HSS version) and I'm very satisfied by the result so far. Now I haven't used them a lot (probably ~20bf of curly maple) so I don't know yet if they will hold the edge longer.

They are a little bit more expensive than the DeWalt replacement blades but they cut better (so far..)

Hope this helps


----------



## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *so, what's the plane? *
> 
> I guess this is a tool gloat more than anything.
> 
> ...


Nice score on the planer. This one has gotten good reviews and it should be a nice addition to your shop.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *so, what's the plane? *
> 
> I guess this is a tool gloat more than anything.
> 
> ...


*Tim* if I lived any closer to you, I'd probably had taken your ridgid planer… but I guess I'm trying to copy every machine you have…. so far so good…lol. thanks for the input. do you have your infeed/outfeed slightly angled inwards? or are they perfectly flat and flush with the planer bed?

*Loupitou* - thanks for the link, I've heard there is an alternative, nice to actually see it.


----------



## GaryC (Dec 31, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *so, what's the plane? *
> 
> I guess this is a tool gloat more than anything.
> 
> ...


Hi and low speed on mine, Delta, is the difference between first cuts and finish cuts. Mine, faster speed is finish cuts. Really can't tell much difference. One thing I watch tho, since I get my wood from the mill….I really watch to see that there is no dirt or grime on the wood. I usually bursh it off before running it thru the planer. That grime, dirt, etc helps to dull the blades faster, just like it does on the chain saw.


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## Darell (Jul 23, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *so, what's the plane? *
> 
> I guess this is a tool gloat more than anything.
> 
> ...


I run both speeds but run the higher speed most often. I can't tell much difference although I think the higher speed is just a bit smoother. As for the infeed and outfeed tables I keep them level with the planer bed. I use a 4' level to align the tables and then check that with a Pinnacle straight edge just for fun. With the level I can get both infeed and outfeed at the same time, front to back and side to side. That's just my way of doing it. It works though. Loupitou06's post on the knives is interesting. I hadn't heard that. I guess when I finally get to my new set of knives I'll find out. Meanwhile, I'll keep his link just in case. I found some carbide knives for the 735 awhile back. Seems to me they were around $250 a set. That's pretty salty for me. Gary makes a good point too on cleaning dirt and grime. Something I should do but don't is to check for metal. That might bite me some day.


----------



## Darell (Jul 23, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *so, what's the plane? *
> 
> I guess this is a tool gloat more than anything.
> 
> ...


I just checked Loupitou's link. Same one I found awhile back.


----------



## Timbo (Aug 21, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *so, what's the plane? *
> 
> I guess this is a tool gloat more than anything.
> 
> ...


PurpLev-I could provide you with an equipment list lol.
I also have the infeed/outfeed tables flat. I have not used it enough to dull the blades. Interesting note: A friend has this model also and has changed the blades twice because they were dull, he knew they were because it would not feed the wood through, but he has not waxed the tables. So I'm wondering if not waxing the tables is the real problem with short blade life.
Gary- good point on brushing off the wood prior to planing, something I don't always remember to do!


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *so, what's the plane? *
> 
> I guess this is a tool gloat more than anything.
> 
> ...


*Gary* - thats a good tip to clean the wood prior to running it through. most of my wood I had already done so, but a good thing to keep in mind for future use - heck, worth posting a sticky note on the planer on the infeed side: "Have you washed your wood with soap and water already?"

*Darell*, and *Tim* - thanks for the leveling info. I've read some people claimed they had to "unlevel" the in-out and install it at a slight angle, but I like the idea of having it flat - easier to align that way. I guess experience will tell. and waxing the table is also something I'll do.

Thanks again to everyone that contributed to this - there are very useful and good ideas and tips here for planers in general.

Sharon.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *so, what's the plane? *
> 
> I guess this is a tool gloat more than anything.
> 
> ...


Updated - pictures are up (above)


----------



## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *so, what's the plane? *
> 
> I guess this is a tool gloat more than anything.
> 
> ...


Hi Lev;

That looks like a brand new machine.

I would keep the blades. You wont get the price of replacing them if you need to, and if your luck is anything like mine, I only need it if I don't have it. Meaning, the first set will last forever, if you have a spare set, but get rid of those, and you'll hit a nail or something hidden in the wood in about 25 minutes. LOL

My luck isn't really that bad, but getting caught in the middle of something, without having a back up drives me nuts

I hear there really good planners.

Lee


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## Stevelegh (Feb 4, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *so, what's the plane? *
> 
> I guess this is a tool gloat more than anything.
> 
> ...


I reaffirm, your workshop is to die for. How envious I am! You have the key to a dream. The Men's shed!


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*Reorganizing Single Car Garage I - The plan.*

Lately, everytime I go to the garage whether it be to get something, or work on something I tend to always come back with bruised/scratched shins.

The garage is a somewhat of a mine field. It never really started as a workshop, so tools and machines just accumulated as they came with no order or planning and each one made it more and more stuffy and cramped.

My wife just asked me 'why don't you take everything out and reorganize the place'.... hmm.. that means spending more time in the garage - and not even for any woodworking  but I guess it WOULD yield some fruits.

So. since I have some of my things modeled in SketchUp (router table, workbench) I was able to mock up the 1 car garage in SU with the addition of some machines that HighlandTools posted on SketchUp's 3dwarehouse (thanks guys). This is what it looks like today (uh… no my planer is not THAT big, and my jointer is also smaller, but these are the machines I was able to get without having to model them - call me lazy  ):









there's also a snow blower there, and a bunch of stuff laying around that just doesn't have a place. you can probably see the pics in my workshop page as have been taken not too long ago.

There are a few issues with current setup:

there's little room to move around
I can't utilize the workbench wagon vise as I can't really reach it
milling lumber is difficult as the area the milling machines are located in is cramped and tight - I do roll them aside , but it could be better.
stuff laying on the floor - safety hazzard

The plan?

Reorganize everything and place it in the perimeter:









This should address the following:

most important - I'll have room to walk around, and be able to reach everything comfortably and safely
workbench will have easy access all around
milling machines will be positioned closest to DC
stationary duct for DC will be easier to setup (future plan)
machines will be grouped by usage (milling, shaping, joinery/fitting)
did I mention I'll have space to move about?

So, this is the plan I have set for myself. hopefully I can get to it one machine at a time, and get it done within the next few weeks.


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage I - The plan.*
> 
> Lately, everytime I go to the garage whether it be to get something, or work on something I tend to always come back with bruised/scratched shins.
> 
> ...


I've found that it's the shorts that I wear in the summer. When I have on long pants the cuts, scrapes and blue bulls-eyes. are not around.

But I'm not discouraging you from moving things around.


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## canadianchips (Mar 12, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage I - The plan.*
> 
> Lately, everytime I go to the garage whether it be to get something, or work on something I tend to always come back with bruised/scratched shins.
> 
> ...


I like your wife's plan better than my wife's idea. When I shower her how crowded I was, her immediate response was "You need to get RID of some STUFF" *NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO.*
A man never wants to hear those words: *"GET RID"*
All I said was IF I had 3 car garage I would have space.!
I don't think that was to much to ask.
PS: I DO LOVE my wife so I may get rid of some "tiny things"


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage I - The plan.*
> 
> Lately, everytime I go to the garage whether it be to get something, or work on something I tend to always come back with bruised/scratched shins.
> 
> ...


hehe, canadianchips - I hear ya.

Karson - the bruises and scratches are from when I'm with heavy duty long pants. if I'd go there with shorts, I may not survive!.


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## ND2ELK (Jan 25, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage I - The plan.*
> 
> Lately, everytime I go to the garage whether it be to get something, or work on something I tend to always come back with bruised/scratched shins.
> 
> ...


With a one car garage one has to be mobile and keep the equipment along the outside walls. My table saw and miter saw can be used at all times with out moving. The planer, sanders and shaper has to be pulled out to use. Depending on the lenght of the pieces I am machinig on the band saw, mortiser, jointer and drill press, determines if they have to be pulled out. I have a shed out side the back door to keep off-fall, jigs and mics.


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## derosa (Aug 21, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage I - The plan.*
> 
> Lately, everytime I go to the garage whether it be to get something, or work on something I tend to always come back with bruised/scratched shins.
> 
> ...


Canadianchips, I just threaten to go up a story and raise the garage roof one floor if she threatens the need to get rid of tools, that ends the argument quick. It helps if you look up building code to back up the threat.

Good looking plan.


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## alba (Jul 31, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage I - The plan.*
> 
> Lately, everytime I go to the garage whether it be to get something, or work on something I tend to always come back with bruised/scratched shins.
> 
> ...


I went to a wood show a few years back to pick up some clamps.
I selected about 12.

Shirley said, "you cant have enough clamps". Then proceded to load another 12 clamps.

I Love my wife

My shop on plan has lots of space. In reality I'm full. Wish it could look like the plan.

Jamie


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## gfixler (Feb 21, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage I - The plan.*
> 
> Lately, everytime I go to the garage whether it be to get something, or work on something I tend to always come back with bruised/scratched shins.
> 
> ...


That little model scene is adorable. Nicely made and reorganized. Good luck finding the time!


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## ellen35 (Jan 1, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage I - The plan.*
> 
> Lately, everytime I go to the garage whether it be to get something, or work on something I tend to always come back with bruised/scratched shins.
> 
> ...


And… of course, there will be no sawdust on the floor… just like the mock up ;-)
Ellen


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage I - The plan.*
> 
> Lately, everytime I go to the garage whether it be to get something, or work on something I tend to always come back with bruised/scratched shins.
> 
> ...


One way to do it is to bit the bullet and to build a new shop, I should have done it 10 years ago!

At home ,I am the one who never want to keep anything ( I hate keeping stuff and mess) and my wife encourages me to keep. 
In the same way I am cheap when it comes to buy tools but my wife encourages me to buy more and better tools!. 
I know she is almost perfect, but do not tell her!


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage I - The plan.*
> 
> Lately, everytime I go to the garage whether it be to get something, or work on something I tend to always come back with bruised/scratched shins.
> 
> ...


----------



## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage I - The plan.*
> 
> Lately, everytime I go to the garage whether it be to get something, or work on something I tend to always come back with bruised/scratched shins.
> 
> ...


I am waiting for more money to install the sheet rock and to finish the whole thing.


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## Toolz (Feb 26, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage I - The plan.*
> 
> Lately, everytime I go to the garage whether it be to get something, or work on something I tend to always come back with bruised/scratched shins.
> 
> ...


Sheeesh! I need to do that…I have a two car garage dedicated to car, extra refrigerators, two pallets of hardwood pellets for the wood-burning pellet stove, a snow blower and way to many fishing poles and tackle boxes; a 12×12 storage shed for lawnmowers etc; AND a 22×44 second garage for a shop. Like you I accumulated tools and equipment on a piecemeal basis without a real plan. I filled it up and now it is like a minefield. LOL I think I need to "rent" a couple of young strong backs to empty the place and start over.


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## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage I - The plan.*
> 
> Lately, everytime I go to the garage whether it be to get something, or work on something I tend to always come back with bruised/scratched shins.
> 
> ...


Good start. Ambitious.

I wish all shops looked like Sketchup drawings.
Of course I wish all my projects looked like Sketchup drawings too.

Steve


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage I - The plan.*
> 
> Lately, everytime I go to the garage whether it be to get something, or work on something I tend to always come back with bruised/scratched shins.
> 
> ...


yup - always looks more manageable and clean in SketchUp. I guess I should model some sawdust while at it.

*Bert* - that's a great shop you put up there. unfortunately I don't think I would want to spend all that time and money in a rental unit. when we own our own place - that will definitely be on the list of things though. For now, I do with what I've got - which I am grateful for having.


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage I - The plan.*
> 
> Lately, everytime I go to the garage whether it be to get something, or work on something I tend to always come back with bruised/scratched shins.
> 
> ...


purplev: " in a rental unit" 
I think I do not understand. 
I own the place

" which I am grateful for having." very good attitude. I am content and blessed also.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage I - The plan.*
> 
> Lately, everytime I go to the garage whether it be to get something, or work on something I tend to always come back with bruised/scratched shins.
> 
> ...


*Bert* - I AM the one renting. so there is only so much I want/can/should spend on setting up shop. also the reason everything is running off of 110, and on 1 circuit  sure it trips the breaker every single time I'm in the shop, but thats the best I've got.


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage I - The plan.*
> 
> Lately, everytime I go to the garage whether it be to get something, or work on something I tend to always come back with bruised/scratched shins.
> 
> ...


PurpLev, I have been there and done that.


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## GaryD (Mar 5, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage I - The plan.*
> 
> Lately, everytime I go to the garage whether it be to get something, or work on something I tend to always come back with bruised/scratched shins.
> 
> ...


Purplev, let us know how this goes, I, just yesterday started the journey of turning a one car garage into a work shop by going and ordering a 12×24 shed that I am going to raise to add a sudo 2nd floor, 4 ft high knee walls and center height may be 6 ft. so that I can take all the junk out of my garage and put it in there and out of the way. I too anytime I go into the garage to do something have to move 5 things to be able to set up so I can work. When the shed comes in I will start a blog on how it goes for me. Good Luck to you, and again keep us posted.


----------



## moonls (Mar 23, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage I - The plan.*
> 
> Lately, everytime I go to the garage whether it be to get something, or work on something I tend to always come back with bruised/scratched shins.
> 
> ...


Sharon, I feel your pain as I have all my power tools in a basement room 11' X 20' ! I hope to expand the space in the near future. I need to learn how to use sketch-up to improve the arrangement of all. Good luck with your project!


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage I - The plan.*
> 
> Lately, everytime I go to the garage whether it be to get something, or work on something I tend to always come back with bruised/scratched shins.
> 
> ...


*Gary* - I thought many times about getting a shed to keep non-woodworking related items out of the garage (and clear out 1/3 of it - YIKES) but since it's a rental, and I don't even have anywhere to place a shed, I had to drop the idea, and try to make shift by rearranging things in a working manner. so far so good.

*Lorna* - I think we all want to expand always, and in a way we do. although it's sometimes not obvious, it's a good idea to once in a while stop and check if you may need a rearrangement of things (if possible) to make things easier, more comfortable, more efficient, and safer. in my case, I just think I hit that time. PM me if you want some assistant with SketchUp.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*Reorganizing Single Car Garage II - Machines are Resting*

Hmm… I thought this step would take longer, but after ~3-4 hours of labor and some sweat I was able to do the following:


reposition short-lumber rack in a 2 tier (or 4 tier) setup to utilize what was wasted space above it before, also clearing out the space for the milling machines
relocate milling machines (jointer, planer, shaper) to newly created space
relocate workbench to space left by milling machines
relocate drill press, bandsaw, and router table to space left by workbench
relocate table saw to space left by bandsaw
sweep and clean floor - yay I could see floor!
relocate handtool cabinet over new location of workbench.

the results may not look like much if anything at all, but where the snow blower parks, and all the way to the end is clean usable floors! that's a new for me:









There is still work to be done:

setup electricity to bandsaw/routertable/drillpress
setup DC for bandsaw/routertable/drillpress
reorganize/relocate medium length lumber that is homeless at the moment and creating a bit of a mess (not TOO bad)
reorganize/clearout stuff around enterance door (that makes it seem like the garage is still a mess - although it's not THAT bad) - mostly it's the medium length lumber, and sheet goods.


----------



## Splinterman (Mar 13, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage II - Machines are Resting*
> 
> Hmm… I thought this step would take longer, but after ~3-4 hours of labor and some sweat I was able to do the following:
> 
> ...


Hey PurpLev,
A lot happening in there…looking good so far.


----------



## boboswin (May 23, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage II - Machines are Resting*
> 
> Hmm… I thought this step would take longer, but after ~3-4 hours of labor and some sweat I was able to do the following:
> 
> ...


Have you considered making a box next to the garage for the Snowblower?
Also a lengthwise overhead rack for lighter stuff would really save you a lot of space.

Mine are 3 feet wide and the length of my shop.

From new shop


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage II - Machines are Resting*
> 
> Hmm… I thought this step would take longer, but after ~3-4 hours of labor and some sweat I was able to do the following:
> 
> ...


Thanks *Bob*. I thought about a rubbermaid type storage box for the snowblower, but I don't really have any place to put it - but still working on it. As for the rack - I have a rubbermaid type shelving unit on the right side of the picture (white) where I used to store all the medium length lumber. I will either reposition it on the opposite wall (most likely), or add another one and keep this one as is for misc. stuff. your rack looks fantastic.


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## MichaelJ (Aug 14, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage II - Machines are Resting*
> 
> Hmm… I thought this step would take longer, but after ~3-4 hours of labor and some sweat I was able to do the following:
> 
> ...


Not sure how tall your snowblower is, but have you thought about building a box with an assembly top or something that your snowblower slides under?


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## shimster (Mar 3, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage II - Machines are Resting*
> 
> Hmm… I thought this step would take longer, but after ~3-4 hours of labor and some sweat I was able to do the following:
> 
> ...


PurpleLev:
Do you organize your sock drawer by color, or thickness?


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage II - Machines are Resting*
> 
> Hmm… I thought this step would take longer, but after ~3-4 hours of labor and some sweat I was able to do the following:
> 
> ...


*michael* - I hadn't thought about building it honestly. might be worth considering, although taking into account materials will have to withstand weather year long, and time to build it - it may not be worth it. but thanks for the idea. I'll put this into a design and see if it may be something I can do.

*shimster* - if it's a sock, it goes in the drawer - I'll find the matching sock when I need it


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage II - Machines are Resting*
> 
> Hmm… I thought this step would take longer, but after ~3-4 hours of labor and some sweat I was able to do the following:
> 
> ...


PurpLev, you is off to a great start.


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## alba (Jul 31, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage II - Machines are Resting*
> 
> Hmm… I thought this step would take longer, but after ~3-4 hours of labor and some sweat I was able to do the following:
> 
> ...


Looking Good.
Jamie


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## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage II - Machines are Resting*
> 
> Hmm… I thought this step would take longer, but after ~3-4 hours of labor and some sweat I was able to do the following:
> 
> ...


Hey Sharon;

You sure this isn't like those wieght loss commercials where they show the before picture, whith a 50 year old heavy set woman. And the after picture, only three days later, a 24 year old women in a bikini, and looking mighty fine?

This doesn't look like the same space. LOL

Lee


----------



## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage II - Machines are Resting*
> 
> Hmm… I thought this step would take longer, but after ~3-4 hours of labor and some sweat I was able to do the following:
> 
> ...


Looks like you're really working hard on it and 'll bet it's really shaping up now. Keep up the good work.


----------



## Eric_S (Aug 26, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage II - Machines are Resting*
> 
> Hmm… I thought this step would take longer, but after ~3-4 hours of labor and some sweat I was able to do the following:
> 
> ...


Making some good progress PurpLev. Reorganizing my entire garage and adding another circuit to the other wall in the garage is my next project before starting anything else. Its getting too cluttered and the more I work in it the more I see ways to improve efficiency. I have to give some credit to you and The Wood Whisperer Marc for opening my eyes and making me think of how I can use my space more efficiently. My biggest issue with space right now though is my lawnmower and camping supply cabinet. That takes up super precious space against the house side wall of the garage. In order to get the cars in the garage(occasionaly), everything on the side floors must be 18" deep or less, but the wall closest to the house can be almost 2 1/2" feet I think. Thats a lot of extra room that is needed, especially now that I have a lathe 

Anyone know of a CHEAP way to keep a lawnmower outside year-round that won't damage it? It is a very good lawnmower I just purchased last year after a cheap handme down finally died and I don't want to ruin it.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage II - Machines are Resting*
> 
> Hmm… I thought this step would take longer, but after ~3-4 hours of labor and some sweat I was able to do the following:
> 
> ...


Hi,
It's amazing! Before all the mess was in a copletely different way - I think…
It's a long process to set up a good workshop, and you have made the first step, so congratulation.
I think also I would make a assambly table for the snowblower to hide under.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage II - Machines are Resting*
> 
> Hmm… I thought this step would take longer, but after ~3-4 hours of labor and some sweat I was able to do the following:
> 
> ...


Thanks guys!

*Lee* - I specifically kept the 24 y/o in bikini out of the picture as it was raining yesterday. but keep your eyes open - it's coming 

*Eric_S* - you're welcome. In our previous place we had to keep the car in the garage (first couple of pictures in my workshop page) and like you, everything against the wall had to be super slim - I had a foldable workbench that was hinged off of the wall. the only space I had for anything deeper was one half wall where I kept my folded tablesaw and drill press (that's all the space I had). my point is - there's a workaround for every specific situation, and is sounds like you've got things in control. As for lawnmower parking - I have the same thing with my lawnmower and snowblower… thats why they are still in the garage  not the best, esp. since the snow blower is covered with snow/water/moisture in the winter time, but you do what you can with the cards given to you. if you figure out a way to get the lawnmower out - let me know!

*Mads* - yes - the mess was just reorganized to be a different mess now - the thing is. at least now I can REACH the mess, whereas before I could only SEE it


----------



## Eric_S (Aug 26, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage II - Machines are Resting*
> 
> Hmm… I thought this step would take longer, but after ~3-4 hours of labor and some sweat I was able to do the following:
> 
> ...


I found this link for a cheap storage box idea for a lawnmower  I'll just have to be extra sure to winterize it before I store it for the winter.

http://www.ehow.com/how_5411349_make-winter-wood-lawnmower-cover.html

It can be scaled for a snowblower. I have enough of extra crappy plywood that I can use, so it should be fairly cheap(just need treated lumber for the base). Its basically just a box off the ground with a tarp on topof the plywood (I'll probably use a cheap 3mil black lawn bag) . I may need to fold the handles down after using though to keep it small until I'm ready to build a real shed.


----------



## BritBoxmaker (Feb 1, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage II - Machines are Resting*
> 
> Hmm… I thought this step would take longer, but after ~3-4 hours of labor and some sweat I was able to do the following:
> 
> ...


Sharon, good progress. Before long you'll be knocking out projects with ease and in comfort.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage II - Machines are Resting*
> 
> Hmm… I thought this step would take longer, but after ~3-4 hours of labor and some sweat I was able to do the following:
> 
> ...


Looks interesting *Eric*. I recalculated my area, and I don't think I even have any place I can put any shed/storage container where I live. I think I'll have to hold off on getting that snowblower and lawn mower out of the garage for the time being.

Thanks *Martyn*, thats the plan


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## Eric_S (Aug 26, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage II - Machines are Resting*
> 
> Hmm… I thought this step would take longer, but after ~3-4 hours of labor and some sweat I was able to do the following:
> 
> ...


Sorry to hear, I think this will be part of my garage reorginization project but it wont be pretty so I'll put it in the back yard behind the fence so the HOA doesn't get annoyed by seeing a tarp covered wood box lol.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*reorganizing Single Car Garage III - Give or Take a Few*

Had some good progress on the garage reorganization, Although it may not look like it.

To start, I wanted to tackle all the medium sized lumber that was now roaming around, scattered on the floor in various locations as it no longer had a dedicated place. I had 4 kitchen cabinets that I got off of craigslist a couple of years ago hoping it'll help me get organized, but in the end, it just took wall space, and didn't prove to be very useful, as it was just left as is, and ended up collecting everything that didn't have a dedicated space. So I posted this morning the 4 cabinets on craigslist free listings, and the cabinets were GONE within 30 minutes. pretty cool.

Now that the cabinets were out, I hung the medium sized lumber shelvings in their place, and viola, no more lumber on the floor (well - except for sheet good that is - still need to deal with that later).

No pic for the lumber rack. but you can see it in my previous blog here (it just moved to the opposite wall).

So, with a little more floor space to walk around, I decided it's time to finish up the duct for the DC. I had it layed out mostly, but couldn't get to the last corner that goes to the bandsaw, router table, and drill press. what was stopping me from completing that run was that where I need to have a 90 (2 45s) turn I was storing my applewood logs.

*The Applewood Logs Story*
2007, I was just getting into woodworking, had a circular saw, drill, and a router. my wife saw an add on craigslist giving away applewood. I went to see the guy, a nice older woodworker that was moving out and was done with woodworking. he only had a few applewood logs left and was looking to pass it on to another woodworker. the deal was - it cannot be burned! after a tour in his house showing me all his woodworking projects (NICE) we came to the logs. 2 humungous logs. one at 14" diameter, ~7 feet long. I made an attempt to lift one side to get an idea how heavy it was - and decided there was no way I could take this, not to mention - how in the world will I slice it to usable lumber?!? all I had was a circular saw.

the guy than told me, although this may be too big - he has some smaller logs I can have if I wanted. I wanted!

So. I've been storing these for the past ~3 years, and actually later on bought a bandsaw with the purpose of slicing those logs into lumber. which I finally did today - more so to clear that corner than anything, but I'm glad I finally got to it.

My resawing logs skills definitely need improvements, but through the 6 logs I could see an improvement, and for what it's worth - I think I got some decent cuts:









There are some nice grain flows in there, and this will probably be used for some boxes:


















So. with the logs out of the way, I was able to finish cutting and running all the ductwork which looks like this:









I partially blocked all the ports and left only the TS open, and it's better than what I had before - not stellar, but definitely an improvement for me. if I'll seal and shut off all the ports I should get an even better suction on that port which is the longest run.

So far so good.

I also noticed after removing the old flex hose and blast gates, that none of the old blast gates were ever fully closed! and I also found some shavings that were stuck in the flex hoses.

So, some progress done behind the scenes, visually it doesn't look much different, but with the DC setup, I am able to tackle the rest of the things easier.

Need some rest!


----------



## Lenny (Sep 28, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *reorganizing Single Car Garage III - Give or Take a Few*
> 
> Had some good progress on the garage reorganization, Although it may not look like it.
> 
> ...


Good progress Sharon. Every little step helps and gets you closer to where you want to be. It was nice of you to offer and give away those cabinets. A nice gesture on your part. I love the applewood story. I can just picture this kindly old gentleman taking you around his home showing you the various projects he made over the years!


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

PurpLev said:


> *reorganizing Single Car Garage III - Give or Take a Few*
> 
> Had some good progress on the garage reorganization, Although it may not look like it.
> 
> ...


I don't know about the shop itself, but that is one nice drawing!


----------



## ellen35 (Jan 1, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *reorganizing Single Car Garage III - Give or Take a Few*
> 
> Had some good progress on the garage reorganization, Although it may not look like it.
> 
> ...


Looks like your shop is coming along nicely… on paper. I'm sure it will be everything you want it to be when finished… well almost everything… can we ever have enough space?


> Love the applewood… what is the plan for it


Ellen


----------



## Gregn (Mar 26, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *reorganizing Single Car Garage III - Give or Take a Few*
> 
> Had some good progress on the garage reorganization, Although it may not look like it.
> 
> ...


Cool score on the apple wood. I'm assuming by your shop set up that the Table saw, jointer and planer are on mobile bases to pull out when needed. Other wise it looks like a good use of space. Looks like you have more room to move around now.


----------



## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

PurpLev said:


> *reorganizing Single Car Garage III - Give or Take a Few*
> 
> Had some good progress on the garage reorganization, Although it may not look like it.
> 
> ...


Greg's comment reminded me…. My table saw is located pretty much where yours is in the drawing, but I turned it so the outfeed side faces the garage door. Since I usually have the door open when I'm working, I rarely have to move the saw at all.


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## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *reorganizing Single Car Garage III - Give or Take a Few*
> 
> Had some good progress on the garage reorganization, Although it may not look like it.
> 
> ...


Hey Sharon, I haven't posted in awhile as I'm on a very long trip but when I get net access I look in to see what you're up to. This setup is going to make things much handier for you. I'm glad to see that you're getting it done. In the end dust collection is never exactly good enough and it's a beast I learn to live with. Never enough suction, never enough ports, never enough shroud so that all the dust gets up the tubes. But, any that you do get helps. Looks like yours might get most of what's gettable.

My trip blog if you're interested: Windrose


----------



## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *reorganizing Single Car Garage III - Give or Take a Few*
> 
> Had some good progress on the garage reorganization, Although it may not look like it.
> 
> ...


Nice progress Sharon.

Lee


----------



## DavidHarms (Feb 25, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *reorganizing Single Car Garage III - Give or Take a Few*
> 
> Had some good progress on the garage reorganization, Although it may not look like it.
> 
> ...


if you are anything like me, any progress is good progress!


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *reorganizing Single Car Garage III - Give or Take a Few*
> 
> Had some good progress on the garage reorganization, Although it may not look like it.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the comments, had to take the day off to get some rest.

*Charlie* - what do you mean drawing? that IS my shop - taken with a new google camera that makes everything look like a SketchUp model  As for table saw position - I previously had the TS face the garage door, but with the fence rails it blocks more than half the width of the garage which made it very hard for me to move around and was in part what made me change the layout. currently the TS is positioned towards the neighbors side of the garage, and unless I'm ripping a full sheet of ply (which I never do) I don't have to move it either.

*Ellen* - No plan yet for the applewood which is why I ripped it as long as I could. my thoughts are boxes since my slices are somewhat curvy (didn't want to spend the time to make a resaw sled, and need to improve resawing rough lumber technique) and will probably need to be cut down to avoid major loss of material in jointing the longer boards… but we'll see. maybe some cutting boards as well. If you're ever in the neighborhood - stop by and take a few 

*Greg*- indeed, everything (but my drill press, and jointer which is smaller and light enough I can manage to move it around when in need) is on mobile bases and will be slightly pulled inwards when needed. otherwise - the workbench, table saw, drill press, and router table are fully useable as is which are the tools I mainly use (unless I'm in a milling process which the jointer/planer will come into play). currently I have full access to the workbench, router table, drill press and TS which is the most important thing for me.

*Daniel* - as I mentioned before, I would like to have a wider main run for the DC, but am trying to do what I can with the budget that I have (which is decent, but not extravagant). the 4" pipe seems OK (again, could be much better, but it works for what it is) and will at least make it easier for me in the sense I don't have to disconnect and reconnect the hose to each machine in use.


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## Gregn (Mar 26, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *reorganizing Single Car Garage III - Give or Take a Few*
> 
> Had some good progress on the garage reorganization, Although it may not look like it.
> 
> ...


I thought you probably did, pic just didn't look like they were. Google camera, this is the first how does it work? looks neat.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *reorganizing Single Car Garage III - Give or Take a Few*
> 
> Had some good progress on the garage reorganization, Although it may not look like it.
> 
> ...


*Greg* - all the machinery are from the 3dwarehouse, posted by HighlandWoodworking (thanks guys!). I just took them and placed them for rought sizing and general idea of how things will work out. this IS SketchUp after all - so I just sketched it up. The only thing that does have casters in the model is my router table, and that is because I modeled that table completely including the casters for measurements (height) and placement when I built it.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *reorganizing Single Car Garage III - Give or Take a Few*
> 
> Had some good progress on the garage reorganization, Although it may not look like it.
> 
> ...


That looks good, Sharon.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*Reorganizing Single Car Garage IV - Getting in Shape(r)*

I mean literally - I got the shaper to work . I guess that would constitute as a tool gloat, although I'm not much of a gloater, I just like getting things done. I got this shaper off of CL a couple of weeks ago just because it was too good of a deal to pass up. I contacted the seller, and told them my budget which was lower than their posted price, and they agreed to my offer - I was psyched! I'll probably set it up with some 3/4 bore cutters for cope-stile at some point when a project needs it (not planing on getting any cutters unless they have an immediate use), but for now I may just use it for router bits, perhaps set it up with a dedicated round over. When I got it, it was setup for 220 and running nicely. I just got a 110 plug for it, and did the rewiring, and voila, it's back up and running (I don't have 220 in my garage). I still need to clean up the top (has a bit of light surface rust) and setup duct collection for it somehow, but it's working nicely - hums like a baby tiger:









*Does Anyone have a shaper hooked up to DC? how is it setup? from the top? from the bottom? any pics? curious…*

I was also able to finalize the duct for the DC. all the pipes are cut to length, and at the moment are just held by friction, and secured to the beams/walls which keeps it from pulling apart, or moving anywhere.

DC Suction at the far point (TS port) doesn't seem to have lost much potency compared to the 10ft flex hose I used previously which is good news.

The LV blast gates (4") although closely matched the 4" ASTM2729 pipes still had a gap that had to be filled. I used painters tape to wrap around the blast gate as it has some thickness to it, and will not leave glue residue if I need to take it off in the future. I wrapped the tape 17 times to get a nice snug fit that would keep the blast gate held tight by friction. once I give the setup some practice and work, and I'm satisfied with the locations and directions of the blast gates, I'll lock them in better with some silicone.


----------



## BritBoxmaker (Feb 1, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage IV - Getting in Shape(r)*
> 
> I mean literally - I got the shaper to work . I guess that would constitute as a tool gloat, although I'm not much of a gloater, I just like getting things done. I got this shaper off of CL a couple of weeks ago just because it was too good of a deal to pass up. I contacted the seller, and told them my budget which was lower than their posted price, and they agreed to my offer - I was psyched! I'll probably set it up with some 3/4 bore cutters for cope-stile at some point when a project needs it (not planing on getting any cutters unless they have an immediate use), but for now I may just use it for router bits, perhaps set it up with a dedicated round over. When I got it, it was setup for 220 and running nicely. I just got a 110 plug for it, and did the rewiring, and voila, it's back up and running (I don't have 220 in my garage). I still need to clean up the top (has a bit of light surface rust) and setup duct collection for it somehow, but it's working nicely - hums like a baby tiger:
> 
> ...


Well done, progress indeed. Good to see your shaper is moveable. Hope some of the other tools, ie tablesaw, are too or you wont be sawing any long pieces of wood, going from the last sketchup.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage IV - Getting in Shape(r)*
> 
> I mean literally - I got the shaper to work . I guess that would constitute as a tool gloat, although I'm not much of a gloater, I just like getting things done. I got this shaper off of CL a couple of weeks ago just because it was too good of a deal to pass up. I contacted the seller, and told them my budget which was lower than their posted price, and they agreed to my offer - I was psyched! I'll probably set it up with some 3/4 bore cutters for cope-stile at some point when a project needs it (not planing on getting any cutters unless they have an immediate use), but for now I may just use it for router bits, perhaps set it up with a dedicated round over. When I got it, it was setup for 220 and running nicely. I just got a 110 plug for it, and did the rewiring, and voila, it's back up and running (I don't have 220 in my garage). I still need to clean up the top (has a bit of light surface rust) and setup duct collection for it somehow, but it's working nicely - hums like a baby tiger:
> 
> ...


Indeed Martyn, everything (but the jointer - I should do something about that) is on mobile bases. but for most, I planned it that things won't have to be moved much if at all for most work. - I can always cut short pieces of wood and glue them together  jokes aside- the space behind the TS is wide open- there is no wall there.


----------



## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage IV - Getting in Shape(r)*
> 
> I mean literally - I got the shaper to work . I guess that would constitute as a tool gloat, although I'm not much of a gloater, I just like getting things done. I got this shaper off of CL a couple of weeks ago just because it was too good of a deal to pass up. I contacted the seller, and told them my budget which was lower than their posted price, and they agreed to my offer - I was psyched! I'll probably set it up with some 3/4 bore cutters for cope-stile at some point when a project needs it (not planing on getting any cutters unless they have an immediate use), but for now I may just use it for router bits, perhaps set it up with a dedicated round over. When I got it, it was setup for 220 and running nicely. I just got a 110 plug for it, and did the rewiring, and voila, it's back up and running (I don't have 220 in my garage). I still need to clean up the top (has a bit of light surface rust) and setup duct collection for it somehow, but it's working nicely - hums like a baby tiger:
> 
> ...


Hi Sharon;

Great find!

I do have a DC attached to my shaper. It is a Delta unit, and it has a factory dust port on the back of the fence. It works very well. I do have to vacuum out the cabinet after any serious use, though.

Lee


----------



## wchips (Dec 11, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage IV - Getting in Shape(r)*
> 
> I mean literally - I got the shaper to work . I guess that would constitute as a tool gloat, although I'm not much of a gloater, I just like getting things done. I got this shaper off of CL a couple of weeks ago just because it was too good of a deal to pass up. I contacted the seller, and told them my budget which was lower than their posted price, and they agreed to my offer - I was psyched! I'll probably set it up with some 3/4 bore cutters for cope-stile at some point when a project needs it (not planing on getting any cutters unless they have an immediate use), but for now I may just use it for router bits, perhaps set it up with a dedicated round over. When I got it, it was setup for 220 and running nicely. I just got a 110 plug for it, and did the rewiring, and voila, it's back up and running (I don't have 220 in my garage). I still need to clean up the top (has a bit of light surface rust) and setup duct collection for it somehow, but it's working nicely - hums like a baby tiger:
> 
> ...


You have a good shaper there. I have one like it. I put a small hood on the rear of the top to collect dust No pics.does a farley good job.


----------



## Jon3 (Feb 28, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage IV - Getting in Shape(r)*
> 
> I mean literally - I got the shaper to work . I guess that would constitute as a tool gloat, although I'm not much of a gloater, I just like getting things done. I got this shaper off of CL a couple of weeks ago just because it was too good of a deal to pass up. I contacted the seller, and told them my budget which was lower than their posted price, and they agreed to my offer - I was psyched! I'll probably set it up with some 3/4 bore cutters for cope-stile at some point when a project needs it (not planing on getting any cutters unless they have an immediate use), but for now I may just use it for router bits, perhaps set it up with a dedicated round over. When I got it, it was setup for 220 and running nicely. I just got a 110 plug for it, and did the rewiring, and voila, it's back up and running (I don't have 220 in my garage). I still need to clean up the top (has a bit of light surface rust) and setup duct collection for it somehow, but it's working nicely - hums like a baby tiger:
> 
> ...


I'd assume you'd be looking at the same kinds of hookups as a router table, with even more flow. So under table, and if possible a scoop above.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage IV - Getting in Shape(r)*
> 
> I mean literally - I got the shaper to work . I guess that would constitute as a tool gloat, although I'm not much of a gloater, I just like getting things done. I got this shaper off of CL a couple of weeks ago just because it was too good of a deal to pass up. I contacted the seller, and told them my budget which was lower than their posted price, and they agreed to my offer - I was psyched! I'll probably set it up with some 3/4 bore cutters for cope-stile at some point when a project needs it (not planing on getting any cutters unless they have an immediate use), but for now I may just use it for router bits, perhaps set it up with a dedicated round over. When I got it, it was setup for 220 and running nicely. I just got a 110 plug for it, and did the rewiring, and voila, it's back up and running (I don't have 220 in my garage). I still need to clean up the top (has a bit of light surface rust) and setup duct collection for it somehow, but it's working nicely - hums like a baby tiger:
> 
> ...


cool. Thanks *Lee* - is that the same setup as your shopmade router table fence you made (in terms of DC)?

wchips - does it attach to the bit guard? fence? or the cabinet?

from what I see on grizzlys site the attachment (for 3" hose) goes on top of the bit guard, but I can't exactly figure out how.

Under cabinet seems almost impossible as the motor is right there, and it's a large cabinet, I doubt anything will pick up anything in that cabinet except what hits the floor.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage IV - Getting in Shape(r)*
> 
> I mean literally - I got the shaper to work . I guess that would constitute as a tool gloat, although I'm not much of a gloater, I just like getting things done. I got this shaper off of CL a couple of weeks ago just because it was too good of a deal to pass up. I contacted the seller, and told them my budget which was lower than their posted price, and they agreed to my offer - I was psyched! I'll probably set it up with some 3/4 bore cutters for cope-stile at some point when a project needs it (not planing on getting any cutters unless they have an immediate use), but for now I may just use it for router bits, perhaps set it up with a dedicated round over. When I got it, it was setup for 220 and running nicely. I just got a 110 plug for it, and did the rewiring, and voila, it's back up and running (I don't have 220 in my garage). I still need to clean up the top (has a bit of light surface rust) and setup duct collection for it somehow, but it's working nicely - hums like a baby tiger:
> 
> ...


Nice find, PurpLev.


----------



## Eric_S (Aug 26, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage IV - Getting in Shape(r)*
> 
> I mean literally - I got the shaper to work . I guess that would constitute as a tool gloat, although I'm not much of a gloater, I just like getting things done. I got this shaper off of CL a couple of weeks ago just because it was too good of a deal to pass up. I contacted the seller, and told them my budget which was lower than their posted price, and they agreed to my offer - I was psyched! I'll probably set it up with some 3/4 bore cutters for cope-stile at some point when a project needs it (not planing on getting any cutters unless they have an immediate use), but for now I may just use it for router bits, perhaps set it up with a dedicated round over. When I got it, it was setup for 220 and running nicely. I just got a 110 plug for it, and did the rewiring, and voila, it's back up and running (I don't have 220 in my garage). I still need to clean up the top (has a bit of light surface rust) and setup duct collection for it somehow, but it's working nicely - hums like a baby tiger:
> 
> ...


Looks real nice. I'm curious though, what is the real difference between a shaper and a router table? They both look the same to me.


----------



## Ken90712 (Sep 2, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage IV - Getting in Shape(r)*
> 
> I mean literally - I got the shaper to work . I guess that would constitute as a tool gloat, although I'm not much of a gloater, I just like getting things done. I got this shaper off of CL a couple of weeks ago just because it was too good of a deal to pass up. I contacted the seller, and told them my budget which was lower than their posted price, and they agreed to my offer - I was psyched! I'll probably set it up with some 3/4 bore cutters for cope-stile at some point when a project needs it (not planing on getting any cutters unless they have an immediate use), but for now I may just use it for router bits, perhaps set it up with a dedicated round over. When I got it, it was setup for 220 and running nicely. I just got a 110 plug for it, and did the rewiring, and voila, it's back up and running (I don't have 220 in my garage). I still need to clean up the top (has a bit of light surface rust) and setup duct collection for it somehow, but it's working nicely - hums like a baby tiger:
> 
> ...


Nice score! Congrats on your new toy, oops tool :>)


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage IV - Getting in Shape(r)*
> 
> I mean literally - I got the shaper to work . I guess that would constitute as a tool gloat, although I'm not much of a gloater, I just like getting things done. I got this shaper off of CL a couple of weeks ago just because it was too good of a deal to pass up. I contacted the seller, and told them my budget which was lower than their posted price, and they agreed to my offer - I was psyched! I'll probably set it up with some 3/4 bore cutters for cope-stile at some point when a project needs it (not planing on getting any cutters unless they have an immediate use), but for now I may just use it for router bits, perhaps set it up with a dedicated round over. When I got it, it was setup for 220 and running nicely. I just got a 110 plug for it, and did the rewiring, and voila, it's back up and running (I don't have 220 in my garage). I still need to clean up the top (has a bit of light surface rust) and setup duct collection for it somehow, but it's working nicely - hums like a baby tiger:
> 
> ...


Thanks for all the comments, I'm really glad to have this in the arsenal. it will get very handy

*Eric* - to answer your question. both do similar work, but the capacity is different. a shaper can take bigger bites and larger cutters (this one can take cutters up to 5" in diameter). a shaper can also run continuously over a long period of time, and is also quieter than a router motor (induction vs. direct drive). it runs slower, but to make up for it, shaper cutters have 3 cutters compared to 2 on (most) router bits, although the larger diameter cutters on shapers make them hit the wood just as fast as the smaller diameter router bits.

there are other differences of course, such as reversing the rotation of the cutters to address parts where the wood grain goes in different directions (curves) etc.


----------



## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage IV - Getting in Shape(r)*
> 
> I mean literally - I got the shaper to work . I guess that would constitute as a tool gloat, although I'm not much of a gloater, I just like getting things done. I got this shaper off of CL a couple of weeks ago just because it was too good of a deal to pass up. I contacted the seller, and told them my budget which was lower than their posted price, and they agreed to my offer - I was psyched! I'll probably set it up with some 3/4 bore cutters for cope-stile at some point when a project needs it (not planing on getting any cutters unless they have an immediate use), but for now I may just use it for router bits, perhaps set it up with a dedicated round over. When I got it, it was setup for 220 and running nicely. I just got a 110 plug for it, and did the rewiring, and voila, it's back up and running (I don't have 220 in my garage). I still need to clean up the top (has a bit of light surface rust) and setup duct collection for it somehow, but it's working nicely - hums like a baby tiger:
> 
> ...


I have an 8 inch Grizzly jointer that probably needs similar work done. I think mine might be in worse shape than yours. Mine borders on a full restore, which is sad for a 10 yr old machine. I've been enjoying watching your progress. I desperately wish I could get back to making progress of my own.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage IV - Getting in Shape(r)*
> 
> I mean literally - I got the shaper to work . I guess that would constitute as a tool gloat, although I'm not much of a gloater, I just like getting things done. I got this shaper off of CL a couple of weeks ago just because it was too good of a deal to pass up. I contacted the seller, and told them my budget which was lower than their posted price, and they agreed to my offer - I was psyched! I'll probably set it up with some 3/4 bore cutters for cope-stile at some point when a project needs it (not planing on getting any cutters unless they have an immediate use), but for now I may just use it for router bits, perhaps set it up with a dedicated round over. When I got it, it was setup for 220 and running nicely. I just got a 110 plug for it, and did the rewiring, and voila, it's back up and running (I don't have 220 in my garage). I still need to clean up the top (has a bit of light surface rust) and setup duct collection for it somehow, but it's working nicely - hums like a baby tiger:
> 
> ...


*Hokie* - curious about your jointer, why is it in such a bad shape? what needs to be done on it? Thanks for keeping track on my progress, it's nice to know the posts are not for me alone (although that is the main purpose I'm posting) .Personally I'm glad I could find the time to reorganize which really became a must at this point, but I'd rather be building something that would go in the house than stay in the garage. I guess we all want more dont we?


----------



## Eric_S (Aug 26, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage IV - Getting in Shape(r)*
> 
> I mean literally - I got the shaper to work . I guess that would constitute as a tool gloat, although I'm not much of a gloater, I just like getting things done. I got this shaper off of CL a couple of weeks ago just because it was too good of a deal to pass up. I contacted the seller, and told them my budget which was lower than their posted price, and they agreed to my offer - I was psyched! I'll probably set it up with some 3/4 bore cutters for cope-stile at some point when a project needs it (not planing on getting any cutters unless they have an immediate use), but for now I may just use it for router bits, perhaps set it up with a dedicated round over. When I got it, it was setup for 220 and running nicely. I just got a 110 plug for it, and did the rewiring, and voila, it's back up and running (I don't have 220 in my garage). I still need to clean up the top (has a bit of light surface rust) and setup duct collection for it somehow, but it's working nicely - hums like a baby tiger:
> 
> ...


Thanks for clearing that up. I figured they were just more powerful versions and it sounds like they kind of are, but better


----------



## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage IV - Getting in Shape(r)*
> 
> I mean literally - I got the shaper to work . I guess that would constitute as a tool gloat, although I'm not much of a gloater, I just like getting things done. I got this shaper off of CL a couple of weeks ago just because it was too good of a deal to pass up. I contacted the seller, and told them my budget which was lower than their posted price, and they agreed to my offer - I was psyched! I'll probably set it up with some 3/4 bore cutters for cope-stile at some point when a project needs it (not planing on getting any cutters unless they have an immediate use), but for now I may just use it for router bits, perhaps set it up with a dedicated round over. When I got it, it was setup for 220 and running nicely. I just got a 110 plug for it, and did the rewiring, and voila, it's back up and running (I don't have 220 in my garage). I still need to clean up the top (has a bit of light surface rust) and setup duct collection for it somehow, but it's working nicely - hums like a baby tiger:
> 
> ...


I plan to blog the jointer thing in the future if I can find the time. I'm still in the midst of the shop renovations I was blogging a few months ago. The hot weather and not life have just gotten in the way. As for why the jointer got so bad? It was sitting in a dirt floor shed with plenty of "ventilation". While it doesn't appear to have gotten directly rained on I think it experienced the equivalent of morning dew on a car every morning for about 3 months. At $300 (after being promised the motor worked), I took a chance. I wired up for 220 and will test it out eventually. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. If it runs, I'll go ahead with the restore. If not, I'll probably try and recoup as much of my $300 and sell it to someone with more time to replace or repair the motor.


----------



## Cato (May 1, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage IV - Getting in Shape(r)*
> 
> I mean literally - I got the shaper to work . I guess that would constitute as a tool gloat, although I'm not much of a gloater, I just like getting things done. I got this shaper off of CL a couple of weeks ago just because it was too good of a deal to pass up. I contacted the seller, and told them my budget which was lower than their posted price, and they agreed to my offer - I was psyched! I'll probably set it up with some 3/4 bore cutters for cope-stile at some point when a project needs it (not planing on getting any cutters unless they have an immediate use), but for now I may just use it for router bits, perhaps set it up with a dedicated round over. When I got it, it was setup for 220 and running nicely. I just got a 110 plug for it, and did the rewiring, and voila, it's back up and running (I don't have 220 in my garage). I still need to clean up the top (has a bit of light surface rust) and setup duct collection for it somehow, but it's working nicely - hums like a baby tiger:
> 
> ...


I don't know much about shapers, but congrats on your score.

What I have read, but don't know if really true or not, is that in the industry more accidents with shapers than any other tool, so if any truth to that watch those fingers and be safe while you learn it.

So am also thinking that with that garage of yours, you have got to be getting on the tight side on space with all that machinery. Going to leave yourself any workspace for assembly and glue ups??


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage IV - Getting in Shape(r)*
> 
> I mean literally - I got the shaper to work . I guess that would constitute as a tool gloat, although I'm not much of a gloater, I just like getting things done. I got this shaper off of CL a couple of weeks ago just because it was too good of a deal to pass up. I contacted the seller, and told them my budget which was lower than their posted price, and they agreed to my offer - I was psyched! I'll probably set it up with some 3/4 bore cutters for cope-stile at some point when a project needs it (not planing on getting any cutters unless they have an immediate use), but for now I may just use it for router bits, perhaps set it up with a dedicated round over. When I got it, it was setup for 220 and running nicely. I just got a 110 plug for it, and did the rewiring, and voila, it's back up and running (I don't have 220 in my garage). I still need to clean up the top (has a bit of light surface rust) and setup duct collection for it somehow, but it's working nicely - hums like a baby tiger:
> 
> ...


looking forward to reading about the jointer *Hokie*. at 300 for an 8" - thats quite a find. I would get to that rust ASAP though as the sooner you get it off, the less it spreads and penetrates the iron.

*Cato* - that is true, the shaper is the most accidents prone machine in the shop, it's basically a jointer with less protection and more dangerous cuts (in terms of safety and danger). I will definitely use caution when working with it - and will always use holddowns, cutter guards, and sleds to make my cuts on it. I do like my fingers on my hands. As for your concern about tight space - this is EXACTLY why I am doing the reorganization -I ran out of space completely! but now with machines out of the way, and the bench where it's at - I have plenty of space for what I need - which is great news. besides - I can always do the glue ups in the living room  (and it'll be the last glue up I ever do)


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Reorganizing Single Car Garage IV - Getting in Shape(r)*
> 
> I mean literally - I got the shaper to work . I guess that would constitute as a tool gloat, although I'm not much of a gloater, I just like getting things done. I got this shaper off of CL a couple of weeks ago just because it was too good of a deal to pass up. I contacted the seller, and told them my budget which was lower than their posted price, and they agreed to my offer - I was psyched! I'll probably set it up with some 3/4 bore cutters for cope-stile at some point when a project needs it (not planing on getting any cutters unless they have an immediate use), but for now I may just use it for router bits, perhaps set it up with a dedicated round over. When I got it, it was setup for 220 and running nicely. I just got a 110 plug for it, and did the rewiring, and voila, it's back up and running (I don't have 220 in my garage). I still need to clean up the top (has a bit of light surface rust) and setup duct collection for it somehow, but it's working nicely - hums like a baby tiger:
> 
> ...


Wauuu, I wish I had the space for a tool like that, you are ging to have such a wonderful shop there.
Best thoughts,
MaFe


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*Greasy Business (wasn't mine, but it is NOW)*

Did not post this as a project although it IS a woodworking finished project - yet not made by me.

I got a little package in the mail yesterday, and inside was awaiting quietly this little gem:









made and sent to me by none other than LJ blackcherry

Thank you very much Wilson! This will be allocated to my tool cabinet and shall be put to use often. My main uses for this would be to wax my handplanes metal bodies and soles after use to keep it from developing surface rust (used T9 and wd40 till now, but this would be better) and make them smoother (less friction) during use. Also for driving screws (makes the screw drive smoother and easier), and similar applications.

the substance inside is beeswax mixed with mineral oil, I was really surprised at the stiffness of it as I thought it would be softer. It seems that the hardness of it will make it easier to use compared to a more pasty and gooey substance.

So perhaps not officially a cult member, but I definitely can say 'I got me one' and more importantly, have a very valuable shop accessory.

Thanks for reading,
Peace


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

PurpLev said:


> *Greasy Business (wasn't mine, but it is NOW)*
> 
> Did not post this as a project although it IS a woodworking finished project - yet not made by me.
> 
> ...


Great gift Sharon. Thanks for the giving Wilson.


----------



## Roz (Jan 13, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Greasy Business (wasn't mine, but it is NOW)*
> 
> Did not post this as a project although it IS a woodworking finished project - yet not made by me.
> 
> ...


Very nice, pardon me being slow but how is it used? Is it a sealer or maybe for your hands?


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Greasy Business (wasn't mine, but it is NOW)*
> 
> Did not post this as a project although it IS a woodworking finished project - yet not made by me.
> 
> ...


Thanks guys,

Roz - I edited the original post and added some extra info RE what I'll be using this for.


----------



## twokidsnosleep (Apr 5, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Greasy Business (wasn't mine, but it is NOW)*
> 
> Did not post this as a project although it IS a woodworking finished project - yet not made by me.
> 
> ...


Very cool


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Greasy Business (wasn't mine, but it is NOW)*
> 
> Did not post this as a project although it IS a woodworking finished project - yet not made by me.
> 
> ...


blackcherry, you have a big heart, and have made a beautiful grease box.
PurpLev, you are a lucky guy to have a buddy like that.
And yes you are with no doubt a full grown member of the club, since Div say I'm the president, I guess I have to make some rules, and the first rule will be; that if you get a grease box from a good buddy, then you are a man with a big heart, and this makes you a fullborn member. You can also still become a member by making one your self…
And in every club we need to follow the rules, so welcome to the club!
Perhaps I should make a blog, where I start to add the members of the Grease box club, it could be fun!
Best thoghts, and a smile full of love to both of you,
Mads


----------



## blackcherry (Dec 7, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Greasy Business (wasn't mine, but it is NOW)*
> 
> Did not post this as a project although it IS a woodworking finished project - yet not made by me.
> 
> ...


This is a token of my appreciation for all you work on making LJ"s a wonderful site to be part of, your comment and blogs show your passion for woodworking and thirst for knowledge my friend. Enjoy and stay safe…Blkcherry


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Greasy Business (wasn't mine, but it is NOW)*
> 
> Did not post this as a project although it IS a woodworking finished project - yet not made by me.
> 
> ...


 Thanks again Wilson,

and thanks for the kind words Mads


----------



## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Greasy Business (wasn't mine, but it is NOW)*
> 
> Did not post this as a project although it IS a woodworking finished project - yet not made by me.
> 
> ...


Congratulations, PurpLev; that was a nice thoughtful gift.


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Greasy Business (wasn't mine, but it is NOW)*
> 
> Did not post this as a project although it IS a woodworking finished project - yet not made by me.
> 
> ...


congrat´s with such a beautyfull gift even filled and ready to use 
use it well with your toys

thanks for sharing Purplev

take care
Dennis


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## woodspark (May 8, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Greasy Business (wasn't mine, but it is NOW)*
> 
> Did not post this as a project although it IS a woodworking finished project - yet not made by me.
> 
> ...


This is GOOD! As Mafe, our president said, you are now a member of the GBOC!

Rules are rules and The President has spoken! Welcome to the club!

May your grease always be slippery

Div, founder member GBOC.


----------



## Lenny (Sep 28, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Greasy Business (wasn't mine, but it is NOW)*
> 
> Did not post this as a project although it IS a woodworking finished project - yet not made by me.
> 
> ...


Congratulations Sharon and kudos to you Wilson. What a kind gesture and a beautiful item I might add. I am not familiar with a grease box but it certainly is a fine looking piece of woodworking. I love the differing woods, the shape and the "hardware". I take it that is a brass pin on which the lid rotates? I will do some research to learn more. Again, very nicely done Wilson and best wishes as you use this gift Sharon.


----------



## swirt (Apr 6, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Greasy Business (wasn't mine, but it is NOW)*
> 
> Did not post this as a project although it IS a woodworking finished project - yet not made by me.
> 
> ...


Really nice work on the box and great heart on the gifting of it.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*I got it, I got it, I got it.... I ain't got it - fixing the DW735 planer rollers*

As mentioned in a previous post, I was in the midst of planing quite a bit of hard maple, when my planer decided it was not hungry anymore, and would not feed the lumber under any circumstance - I tried the "here comes an airplane"... no go. I tried the "I'll get you ice cream if you finish all the lumber" - nope. I tried "I'll tell mama you didn't finish your wood" - nada.

So I decided to play doctor and open it up and see what's up. no, it was never a fantasy of mine, but I do like to fix my own things (as long as it's within my capacity to do so).

The roller mechanism is fairly simple. 2 rods that the rollers are mounted on, 1 rod (front) is being driven by the cutterhead via a gear mechanism that reduces the RPMs (and integrates with the speed selection switch). Then, the front rod is driving the back rod by means of 2 sprockets and a chain between them. real simple.

To get to the roller mechanism, you use the supplied wrench and remove 3 set screws:










the entire side cover comes off to reveal the mechanism where I found the front sprocket broken in half:










Actually, I only found half of the sprocket - I have no idea what happened to the 2nd half, which made me wonder if it even broke recently or before I got the planer. Regardless, I ordered a replacement part for $3 from a local dewalt service center. real nice guys in Billerica, MA.

Here you can see the half sprocket with it's replacement part:










it was just a matter of putting everything back again (with the new part obviously) and call it a day. mind you -the sprocket has a lip on 1 side, and should be installed with the lip facing inside (towards the planer) - for over excitement I installed it reversed - yup, you can probably imagine where this is heading….

So, I installed everything back together - except for the cover, and turned the planer on - lo and behold, the planer is running, and the rollers are moving ! YEAH! good stuff right there….

1….

2…

SNAP!

now the other sprocket broke in half  I have a strong feeling it's because the sprockets were each installed opposite (one with lip inwards, one with lip outwards) but since the other sprocket broke and fell out I can't guarantee this. the other alternative which I really hope is not the reason is that there might be something else that was causing the sprocket to break.

So, back to ordering another sprocket (I'll get a few just in case as backup).

This is theoretically how you'd fix the rollers, although you may want to pay more attention to which way the sprockets are put in so that you'll actually be fixing it and be done with it. in my case - planer is still out of commission. I ended up hand planing/thicknessing the rest of the lumber for the cutting board I'm working on. not hard, but just takes more focus as you have to pay attention to flatness and thickness per board manually rather than just shoving all boards into the planer and worrying not.

On the other hand - I had success fixing my Lathe. Since it's non woodworking related, I started my own blog for that, you are all welcome to check it out as it's focused on machining and metal/solid material work. you can read it HERE


----------



## 280305 (Sep 28, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *I got it, I got it, I got it.... I ain't got it - fixing the DW735 planer rollers*
> 
> As mentioned in a previous post, I was in the midst of planing quite a bit of hard maple, when my planer decided it was not hungry anymore, and would not feed the lumber under any circumstance - I tried the "here comes an airplane"... no go. I tried the "I'll get you ice cream if you finish all the lumber" - nope. I tried "I'll tell mama you didn't finish your wood" - nada.
> 
> ...


I hope that you get your planer working again soon. Based on your experience, if I ever need to replace a sprocket, I will buy a few of them.

Are the sprockets metal or plastic?


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *I got it, I got it, I got it.... I ain't got it - fixing the DW735 planer rollers*
> 
> As mentioned in a previous post, I was in the midst of planing quite a bit of hard maple, when my planer decided it was not hungry anymore, and would not feed the lumber under any circumstance - I tried the "here comes an airplane"... no go. I tried the "I'll get you ice cream if you finish all the lumber" - nope. I tried "I'll tell mama you didn't finish your wood" - nada.
> 
> ...


these are metal. it seems like they are cast metal of some sort, easily broken if put under stress.


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *I got it, I got it, I got it.... I ain't got it - fixing the DW735 planer rollers*
> 
> As mentioned in a previous post, I was in the midst of planing quite a bit of hard maple, when my planer decided it was not hungry anymore, and would not feed the lumber under any circumstance - I tried the "here comes an airplane"... no go. I tried the "I'll get you ice cream if you finish all the lumber" - nope. I tried "I'll tell mama you didn't finish your wood" - nada.
> 
> ...


Now THAT's a bag of downers :-(

Hoping the third time's a charm !


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

PurpLev said:


> *I got it, I got it, I got it.... I ain't got it - fixing the DW735 planer rollers*
> 
> As mentioned in a previous post, I was in the midst of planing quite a bit of hard maple, when my planer decided it was not hungry anymore, and would not feed the lumber under any circumstance - I tried the "here comes an airplane"... no go. I tried the "I'll get you ice cream if you finish all the lumber" - nope. I tried "I'll tell mama you didn't finish your wood" - nada.
> 
> ...


Good luck on the re-rebuild


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *I got it, I got it, I got it.... I ain't got it - fixing the DW735 planer rollers*
> 
> As mentioned in a previous post, I was in the midst of planing quite a bit of hard maple, when my planer decided it was not hungry anymore, and would not feed the lumber under any circumstance - I tried the "here comes an airplane"... no go. I tried the "I'll get you ice cream if you finish all the lumber" - nope. I tried "I'll tell mama you didn't finish your wood" - nada.
> 
> ...


Thanks. hopefully next time will be the last.

*shopguryl* - thanks!. that's exactly what I plan to do to make sure nothing else might be lurking in the dark - spin it by hand, and check it closely before I power it up. then have a couple extra sprockets at hand if it does pop up again. the idea that maybe both sprockets got hit at the same time, while one was just waiting to fully crack makes sense. we'll see how it goes next week when the parts arrive.


----------



## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *I got it, I got it, I got it.... I ain't got it - fixing the DW735 planer rollers*
> 
> As mentioned in a previous post, I was in the midst of planing quite a bit of hard maple, when my planer decided it was not hungry anymore, and would not feed the lumber under any circumstance - I tried the "here comes an airplane"... no go. I tried the "I'll get you ice cream if you finish all the lumber" - nope. I tried "I'll tell mama you didn't finish your wood" - nada.
> 
> ...


Hi Sharon;

Some days it bees that way, right?

At least now you know.

Lee


----------



## Bearpie (Feb 19, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *I got it, I got it, I got it.... I ain't got it - fixing the DW735 planer rollers*
> 
> As mentioned in a previous post, I was in the midst of planing quite a bit of hard maple, when my planer decided it was not hungry anymore, and would not feed the lumber under any circumstance - I tried the "here comes an airplane"... no go. I tried the "I'll get you ice cream if you finish all the lumber" - nope. I tried "I'll tell mama you didn't finish your wood" - nada.
> 
> ...


They are made with soft metal so they break instead of completely ruining the planer. It sucks but the alternative is worse.

Erwin, Jacksonville, FL


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *I got it, I got it, I got it.... I ain't got it - fixing the DW735 planer rollers*
> 
> As mentioned in a previous post, I was in the midst of planing quite a bit of hard maple, when my planer decided it was not hungry anymore, and would not feed the lumber under any circumstance - I tried the "here comes an airplane"... no go. I tried the "I'll get you ice cream if you finish all the lumber" - nope. I tried "I'll tell mama you didn't finish your wood" - nada.
> 
> ...


Thanks Erwin - I agree! I would machine a new sprocket of better material, but at the risk of messing a more substantial component in the planer - I'd rather get the proper soft metal replacement part that would break first.


----------



## MarkColan (Aug 11, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *I got it, I got it, I got it.... I ain't got it - fixing the DW735 planer rollers*
> 
> As mentioned in a previous post, I was in the midst of planing quite a bit of hard maple, when my planer decided it was not hungry anymore, and would not feed the lumber under any circumstance - I tried the "here comes an airplane"... no go. I tried the "I'll get you ice cream if you finish all the lumber" - nope. I tried "I'll tell mama you didn't finish your wood" - nada.
> 
> ...


I had a nice laugh with your words, spoken like a parent trying to feed the child. If the gears were installed incorrectly when the machine was built, and it was possible to do that, then I would call that 1) a design flaw and 2) a failure of quality control.

Anyway, good luck with it!

Mark


----------



## gfixler (Feb 21, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *I got it, I got it, I got it.... I ain't got it - fixing the DW735 planer rollers*
> 
> As mentioned in a previous post, I was in the midst of planing quite a bit of hard maple, when my planer decided it was not hungry anymore, and would not feed the lumber under any circumstance - I tried the "here comes an airplane"... no go. I tried the "I'll get you ice cream if you finish all the lumber" - nope. I tried "I'll tell mama you didn't finish your wood" - nada.
> 
> ...


ARGH! All of my pain is returning. Yours is a sprocket. Mine was a bearing. I also ruined my first replacement and decided to buy a few as backups after that. I feel your pain. Planers are crap. Best of luck!


----------



## ellen35 (Jan 1, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *I got it, I got it, I got it.... I ain't got it - fixing the DW735 planer rollers*
> 
> As mentioned in a previous post, I was in the midst of planing quite a bit of hard maple, when my planer decided it was not hungry anymore, and would not feed the lumber under any circumstance - I tried the "here comes an airplane"... no go. I tried the "I'll get you ice cream if you finish all the lumber" - nope. I tried "I'll tell mama you didn't finish your wood" - nada.
> 
> ...


Sharon,
You are fortunate to have parts available so close to home.
I'm sure you'll get to the bottom of this one… you always do!!
Ellen


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## Cato (May 1, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *I got it, I got it, I got it.... I ain't got it - fixing the DW735 planer rollers*
> 
> As mentioned in a previous post, I was in the midst of planing quite a bit of hard maple, when my planer decided it was not hungry anymore, and would not feed the lumber under any circumstance - I tried the "here comes an airplane"... no go. I tried the "I'll get you ice cream if you finish all the lumber" - nope. I tried "I'll tell mama you didn't finish your wood" - nada.
> 
> ...


Yuck, I regard my 735 almost with a sense of awe everytime a rough board goes in and a beautiful grained piece of wood emerges from the other side!!

I hope it was just the sprocket that failed and not failed bearing stress related, but have to wait and see.

However, once you get it fixed up you will have that sense of pride in doing it yourself and having learned about the mechanics of your planer. Sounds nice to say anyway, sympathy I guess for one that has to go through the agony of a downed piece of equipment. 

Thanks for sharing with the pics as a lot of us 735 owners can learn from this.


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## ROY53 (Sep 12, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *I got it, I got it, I got it.... I ain't got it - fixing the DW735 planer rollers*
> 
> As mentioned in a previous post, I was in the midst of planing quite a bit of hard maple, when my planer decided it was not hungry anymore, and would not feed the lumber under any circumstance - I tried the "here comes an airplane"... no go. I tried the "I'll get you ice cream if you finish all the lumber" - nope. I tried "I'll tell mama you didn't finish your wood" - nada.
> 
> ...


Look real hard for the broken piece. It didn't vaporize. That may be binding up the works.


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## Dez (Mar 28, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *I got it, I got it, I got it.... I ain't got it - fixing the DW735 planer rollers*
> 
> As mentioned in a previous post, I was in the midst of planing quite a bit of hard maple, when my planer decided it was not hungry anymore, and would not feed the lumber under any circumstance - I tried the "here comes an airplane"... no go. I tried the "I'll get you ice cream if you finish all the lumber" - nope. I tried "I'll tell mama you didn't finish your wood" - nada.
> 
> ...


Those sprockets are about half the thickness of the ones on my Jet!

The second sprocket may have broken at the same time as the first! (I replaced the ones on my Jet when I was planing some rough Incense Ceder siding - it ran 3/4" to 1 1/4" and I didn't check to make sure if I had it set to the max thickness! Mine quit before I could start planing another board)

It may have broken right when it quit working the second time!
All the strain/pressure - however normal, will take out the weakest part! (Wear and tear or oxidation of the plastic, whatever.)

Either way you have done the maintenance and replaced worn parts so it should be good for a while! (Unless you also needed to replace any bushings or bearings!) 
I believe this is the first time I have posted on one of yours PurpLev! I just wanted you to know I feel for you and have been there.

NOTE!

Any critique perceived is from my experiences and wanting others to be able to avoid my mistakes. (I had my planer apart 5 times in one week AND ended up ordering spares to keep on hand!) 
That Little Jet planed an estimated 50 lineal feet before I had to replace a second set of gears AND the feed roller bushings! (I should have replaced them along with the first set of gears!)

After that I ran an estimated 5K lineal feet without a problem. (It is probably time for another set soon?)
OH WELL, such is Woodworking! ~


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*Sharpening Station*

When I started working with bladed tools (chisels/planes/etc) I wanted a sharpening system that was on the cheap, small and storable and versatile. I chose to start with the scary sharp, and used sand papers from 100grit (rough shaping and cleaning nicked blades) to 2500 for final honing and green compound for touch ups. I added the Veritas MK-II honing guide and was using it for reshaping/resestting blades and honing them through the grits.

While this method worked for the time I wanted something that was faster, and I wanted a system that would allow me to free myself from jigs and go freehand. Everything that I read suggested that hollow grinding was the way to accomplish that. A coincidence find on CL of a sheppach slow wet grinder some research to learn more about it and it's acceptance among users and I followed along with a new setup. Since it's a slow grinder I am not sure there is much benefit time wise as compared to scary-sharp or stones (difference between the later 2 is mostly the material of choice), but there is definitely an improvement in effort when running a batch of blades through it, and setup time is faster as well. The real benefit though is that it is creating a hollow grind on the bevel which when you then place the bevel on a flat surface simulates 2 feet (back of bevel, and front edge) that the bevel rests on which makes it easier to register the angle of the bevel on honing media and makes it more stable to run it across it for periodical honing and touch ups without the need to go back to the grinder AND you can do that freehand without much fuss.

I know some people like to touch up blades on extra fine stones (8000+) after using the wet sharpener, but I personally find that using the buffing wheel with the buffing paste leaves the best surface and mirror shine I could ever achieve - more so than using 12,000 sand paper on granite or green compound paste on MDF. I would like to try the diamond paste some suppliers offer at some point mostly for curiosity since my edges are as sharp as I could ask them to be.

I never had any issues with the scary sharp method and was getting good results with it, but I find that with the wet grinder I can get better results with less effort and then have a green compound block of MDF at the workbench I could touch them up with from time to time so it works very well for me.

The final setup (see picture):
1. Granite slab with sand papers and a set of diamond stones for lapping soles and backs of blades flat from rough to mirror finish

2. Variable Speed double grinder- to take off ALOT of material FAST. I use this mainly for 2 reasons. mainly for metal toolings, but also to dress up broken.chipped blades that would otherwise take forever on the wet grinder and also eat up too much of the wet grinder softer wheel

3. wet slow grinder for dressing up the bevels on cutting tools and honing/buffing them to a mirror finish (final)

I have it in the basement as this way I can work on it late nights as it has low noise levels, is warmer than the garage, and easier access to water and cleaning up afterwards, but this could just as well be done in the shop, as most of this can also be stored away and pulled out when needed (I mostly only do this when I get a new tool, or after a while when I need to reestablish an edge. not so much constant use)










Maybe this can give some folks ideas, or simplify the "sharpening scare" some might have. Bottom line and as many have said before me and many will say after - there are many methods to get sharp tools, and all are good. it all boils down to what works for each one. choose one, choose many and see which works best for you and stick to it.

Thanks for reading,
Peace.


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## Cory (Jan 14, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Sharpening Station*
> 
> When I started working with bladed tools (chisels/planes/etc) I wanted a sharpening system that was on the cheap, small and storable and versatile. I chose to start with the scary sharp, and used sand papers from 100grit (rough shaping and cleaning nicked blades) to 2500 for final honing and green compound for touch ups. I added the Veritas MK-II honing guide and was using it for reshaping/resestting blades and honing them through the grits.
> 
> ...


Thanks for posting this, Sharon. I have been using a Worksharp 3000 for all of my chisels and plane irons. It's a really great tool for the standard bevel edge chisels and smaller plane irons. For the larger plane irons, mortise chisels, and skew chisels, though, I've been having some trouble getting the results I'm after.

Given that I keep all my stones and tools in an unheated garage, wet sharpening is out of the question. I've considered going to diamond stones and a Rob Cosman honing guide. I've read that after using that guide for a while you get used to the position of the blade in your fingers and you won't need it. It's like training wheels, I guess. Did you consider diamond stones?


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Sharpening Station*
> 
> When I started working with bladed tools (chisels/planes/etc) I wanted a sharpening system that was on the cheap, small and storable and versatile. I chose to start with the scary sharp, and used sand papers from 100grit (rough shaping and cleaning nicked blades) to 2500 for final honing and green compound for touch ups. I added the Veritas MK-II honing guide and was using it for reshaping/resestting blades and honing them through the grits.
> 
> ...


Sharon thank you for posting . I have a similar set up and it works well for me too.
I bought a Worksharp 3000 a while ago, I used it once and then never touched it again.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Sharpening Station*
> 
> When I started working with bladed tools (chisels/planes/etc) I wanted a sharpening system that was on the cheap, small and storable and versatile. I chose to start with the scary sharp, and used sand papers from 100grit (rough shaping and cleaning nicked blades) to 2500 for final honing and green compound for touch ups. I added the Veritas MK-II honing guide and was using it for reshaping/resestting blades and honing them through the grits.
> 
> ...


Cory, I didn't think of blade thickness as an issue since my setup can handle anything of any size and shape, but this is something to consider as well. As for diamond stones if you'll look at the pic and at #1 in my list I have a set of diamond stones. even the finest of them is still somewhat 'rough' and blades will still need to be honed on something with a finer grit. it does remove material pretty well though.

As for freehand sharpening - once you 'get it' you just get it. one thing that I found helpful was avoiding a back-and-forth motion as it tends to force you to rock you hand and not keeping a straight plane on the edge you are sharpening. instead just go movements towards you (or push away from you as long as you only go one way). and hole the bevel at an angle. after that - practice practice practice.


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## Eric_S (Aug 26, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Sharpening Station*
> 
> When I started working with bladed tools (chisels/planes/etc) I wanted a sharpening system that was on the cheap, small and storable and versatile. I chose to start with the scary sharp, and used sand papers from 100grit (rough shaping and cleaning nicked blades) to 2500 for final honing and green compound for touch ups. I added the Veritas MK-II honing guide and was using it for reshaping/resestting blades and honing them through the grits.
> 
> ...


Very nice setup Sharon.

I'd like to try wet stones some time, but for now my grinder and Worksharp 3000 will do.

I must say, even after going through all the grits I have on the WS3000, in order for the blades to easily shave hairs off my skin I have to use the leather wheel with buffing paste so I'd have to agree with you there on the buffing wheel getting the best finish. I really like the scary sharp method though for sharpening chisels and plane irons.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*Finally Took the Plunge (saw)*

I have wanted to get one of those track saws for a while now just couldn't fork out the 600 for the original green machine. with the recent introduction of a track saw by the other green company (Grizzly) I did some research (online reviews, online videos, demos, different model user manuals for features, parts diagrams and features) and found the Scheppach CS-55 model to be a suitable match for me.

I have had good past experience with Scheppach products (my slow grinder) and from looking at their online website (although poorly constructed) it seems on-par with Grizzly in many ways (there are also numerous products that are identical from both mfg.) which is good for long term parts/service purposes as I think Grizzly is very very good in that sense (ease of getting replacement parts). Since Grizzly's track saw is still not available in stock, and since their overall price was $50 over the alternative, I ended up going with the Scheppach model.

I also ordered an Oshlun 48teeth replacement blade to have a spare at hand (since these are not readily available at the BORG I don't want to be stranded without a blade in the middle of a project).

My use for this will be sporadic and not too often so I don't need a power horse that will run 24/7 nor do I need all the bells and whistles, just a solid saw that will do what it's supposed to do with safety in mind.

The saw arrived quickly, and well packed, with very minimal set of instructions:









all seems to be as expected and in working condition. it definitely does not have a high-end quality feel to it, and feels rather plasticy but in terms of functionality it's mostly there. It lacks some of the functionality other models have like stronger motor, variable speed, and some accessories that I suppose would come standard with other models are only available as "accessory pack" for this one. I personally will make the accessories I'll need for this one so opted not to get any additional add ons.

first impression (not from heavy use - just impressions, could theoretically mean absolutely nothing at this point):
Cons:

feels plasticy
motor is noisy and doesn't have that vroooom feel to it (just a 9amp motor as known prior to purchase)
motor doesn't seem to have a quick change carbon brush slot, for long term maintenance you'd have to open up the motor cover - no biggy, just found it curious.
no "made in …." sticker anywhere on package/saw - only reference of Ohio distributor. I suppose this is made in asia/china and shipped to Europe from where it is passed to the US. otherwise I'm pretty sure you'd have to have that sticker on the product if it's direct asia to US (I could be mistaken)

Pros:

slips nicely and securely into track - nice
rides smoothly on track
working position is comfortable and the feel is much more in control over freehand circular saw
plunge action is awesome, setting depth of cut is convenient and safe - no need to flip saw guard halfway and drop saw down on part to be sawed. the operation on this one definitely feels like a huge improvement.

unfortunately I do not have any shop time as of late, but I do have 1 project that I would like to address, so hopefully I will get to test drive this a bit more seriously.

Not that I would be willing to pay full price for the green machine (or even for a used one), but after playing around with this one at this price range, I actually find the price tag on the higher end models more realistic with the attention to details that they include. But pound-per-pound for the occasional use and comparing the basic functionality, I find this one to be a good contender for the serious hobbyist.


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## Cory (Jan 14, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Finally Took the Plunge (saw)*
> 
> I have wanted to get one of those track saws for a while now just couldn't fork out the 600 for the original green machine. with the recent introduction of a track saw by the other green company (Grizzly) I did some research (online reviews, online videos, demos, different model user manuals for features, parts diagrams and features) and found the Scheppach CS-55 model to be a suitable match for me.
> 
> ...


I've been jonesing for a track saw, too. Just can't bite the bullet….even if it's a blue one instead of green. I'd love to hear how this saw performs over the course of a project, though. What about the rails? Do they have longer lengths? When you're joining them together are they solid?


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## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Finally Took the Plunge (saw)*
> 
> I have wanted to get one of those track saws for a while now just couldn't fork out the 600 for the original green machine. with the recent introduction of a track saw by the other green company (Grizzly) I did some research (online reviews, online videos, demos, different model user manuals for features, parts diagrams and features) and found the Scheppach CS-55 model to be a suitable match for me.
> 
> ...


Neat.
I want a track saw too. It will be interesting to see how this plays for you.
Looks good from here.

Steve


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Finally Took the Plunge (saw)*
> 
> I have wanted to get one of those track saws for a while now just couldn't fork out the 600 for the original green machine. with the recent introduction of a track saw by the other green company (Grizzly) I did some research (online reviews, online videos, demos, different model user manuals for features, parts diagrams and features) and found the Scheppach CS-55 model to be a suitable match for me.
> 
> ...


Cory, the rails are solid, and while they come as 2×25" rails (as opposed to a single 55" piece like other mfg offer), if you align them properly the line is unnoticeable when sliding the saw over it

unfortunately unlike the other brands which carry the rails everywhere, I was not able to find any source for the Scheppach rails, other than Grizzly (still unavailable at this point in time). I'll take measurements and would be interested to check against Makita and Festool rails to see if they can interchange (I believe they can) albeit much more expensive (thought I would like to have a full 100" rail setup to rip sheet goods lengthwise).


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

PurpLev said:


> *Finally Took the Plunge (saw)*
> 
> I have wanted to get one of those track saws for a while now just couldn't fork out the 600 for the original green machine. with the recent introduction of a track saw by the other green company (Grizzly) I did some research (online reviews, online videos, demos, different model user manuals for features, parts diagrams and features) and found the Scheppach CS-55 model to be a suitable match for me.
> 
> ...


Good luck Sharon. It will be nice to have an operation review.


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Finally Took the Plunge (saw)*
> 
> I have wanted to get one of those track saws for a while now just couldn't fork out the 600 for the original green machine. with the recent introduction of a track saw by the other green company (Grizzly) I did some research (online reviews, online videos, demos, different model user manuals for features, parts diagrams and features) and found the Scheppach CS-55 model to be a suitable match for me.
> 
> ...


Sweet! Thats going to make working with plywood much easier .


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## Marty5965 (Jan 27, 2013)

PurpLev said:


> *Finally Took the Plunge (saw)*
> 
> I have wanted to get one of those track saws for a while now just couldn't fork out the 600 for the original green machine. with the recent introduction of a track saw by the other green company (Grizzly) I did some research (online reviews, online videos, demos, different model user manuals for features, parts diagrams and features) and found the Scheppach CS-55 model to be a suitable match for me.
> 
> ...


There is also a product called true track. It is made in Ohio and utilizes your own CS on an adapter and turns it into a track saw. They sell add-on packs (don't they all) to create a kind of sacrificial saw station that folds up into about the size of a folded saw horse. Check out their website. i noticed that Woodcraft carries it too. Don't have one, just thought it looked neat and has a low price tag (comparatively speaking).


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*Bar Clamp Storage*

I just went over some old pics and noticed I never officially posted this one, so here it is.

This is how I have my bar clamps stored and organized (by length) at eye level so that even if one falls, it won't do much damage (to me) as well as making it easy to reach and grab what is needed:









Cheers!


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## blackcherry (Dec 7, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Bar Clamp Storage*
> 
> I just went over some old pics and noticed I never officially posted this one, so here it is.
> 
> ...


Nice, tidy and handy my good friend, hope all is well…BC


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## Lenny (Sep 28, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Bar Clamp Storage*
> 
> I just went over some old pics and noticed I never officially posted this one, so here it is.
> 
> ...


Nicely organized Sharon. You certainly have an ample supply of them. I can't tell from the photo…what's with the the two stray blue ones? Not enough room? Different length?


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## OggieOglethorpe (Aug 15, 2012)

PurpLev said:


> *Bar Clamp Storage*
> 
> I just went over some old pics and noticed I never officially posted this one, so here it is.
> 
> ...


That'll work!


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## chief101 (Oct 30, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Bar Clamp Storage*
> 
> I just went over some old pics and noticed I never officially posted this one, so here it is.
> 
> ...


Very organized nice.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Bar Clamp Storage*
> 
> I just went over some old pics and noticed I never officially posted this one, so here it is.
> 
> ...


Thanks.

Lenny - yeah, there was no room. I have since (this picture was taken several years ago) added a couple more of those hangers and all the clamps (and more) now have a proper placement. good catch


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Bar Clamp Storage*
> 
> I just went over some old pics and noticed I never officially posted this one, so here it is.
> 
> ...


That looks great. Maybe it will inspire me to make some changes to my clamp storage.


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## redryder (Nov 28, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Bar Clamp Storage*
> 
> I just went over some old pics and noticed I never officially posted this one, so here it is.
> 
> ...


Having the clamps coming "out" from the wall instead of across the wall seems like a smart way to save some wall space. Is that how you see it?? I have only seen a very few racks built "out" from the wall like you have done.
I don't really see a down side unless you may know of one….......................


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Bar Clamp Storage*
> 
> I just went over some old pics and noticed I never officially posted this one, so here it is.
> 
> ...


Lovely order.
Perhaps I also should make some clamp order.
Happy new year,
Mads


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## EricBosloor (Jan 25, 2013)

PurpLev said:


> *Bar Clamp Storage*
> 
> I just went over some old pics and noticed I never officially posted this one, so here it is.
> 
> ...


How many clamps do one need? That's one nifty storage and it does seem more well organized than hanging them onto bars.


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## Woodbie (Apr 3, 2018)

PurpLev said:


> *Bar Clamp Storage*
> 
> I just went over some old pics and noticed I never officially posted this one, so here it is.
> 
> ...


nice


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