# Laying out my new shop



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Looks like LOML and I are having a new house built. Should be moving in about 4-6 months.

This is a good thing !

My shop will be a basement shop-no walk-out, so … access by the stairs.

Full basement with 9' ceilings. We'll likely just have the builder build out the shop, during construction. The space that lends itself best to becoming the shop is about 480 square feet-about what I have now.

After a fair bit of thought, and some time playing with Grizzly's online shop layout program … I've come up with the following:

1) The whole basement layout, showing the part that my shop will occupy:

LINK

2) Lighting and electrical plan:

LINK

3) Tool layout:

LINK

I hope these links work …. 

If so … I'd be grateful for anybody's comments or suggestions.

Thanks much !


----------



## MedicKen (Dec 2, 2008)

Neil…..Looks good. Is there anyway that you might be able to add the dust collector and compressor into the mechanical room? It would solve a lot of the noise issues associated with them as well as free up floor space.

Are the lights going to be recessed in the ceiling? If not, might consider it.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

SAWEET!

the links require you to have a google account, first link is not shared anyways so I couldn't see. but the tool arrangement looks a bit crowded in the center of the basement - I would opt to clear out the center and have wider walk ways - less bumps and bruises is a good thing 

congratulations.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

edit - I can now see the 1st link (maybe something was bad on my end first try)


----------



## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

*Neil*, it looks like a comprehensive and well thought out plan of action. I'll be pulling for you to carry it out; and if you do I believe that you will end up with a very nice shop indeed. You have an organized mind and I believe that you will take care of the very last detail.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Congrats, Neil. The shop looks good.


----------



## Manitario (Jul 4, 2010)

looks great Neil. You've squeezed an impressive amount of tools into your space.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

move the dog a little to the left. Don't want you to trip over him. Looks good other than that.


----------



## BentheViking (May 19, 2011)

I like the addition of your dog and the ikea armoire. I was wondering will you have an area dedicated to finishing?


----------



## RockyBlue (Jan 10, 2011)

Ikea? For shame… 
Is the planer situated for running 8' of stock through? Or is it on a mobile base?
Every shop needs a shop dog!!
Looks like it will be a nice shop.


----------



## bluekingfisher (Mar 30, 2010)

Good to see you have embrassed your inner self and created a tranquil setting for your Yoga Neil


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Wow, what an exciting time! This is going to be one great shop.


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Thanks, all … as always.

*Ken*: I'd love to do that-put the DC and the compressor behind the shop wall, and inside the mechanical room. I'll have to figure out how practical that is-whether I would *have to* plumb the DC to do that, or whether I could simply run my existing hose through a penetration in that wall.

Most of the tools are on mobile bases. Anything that isn't … most likely will be. The corner marked for lumber storage won't have any walls, initially, but is sort of "set aside" for a possible future finishing room.

Until/unless it gets built … I'll probably have to continue to do my finishing the way I do, now-on my workbench or assembly table, and with exhaust fans running.

And if/when it DOES get built … I have NO idea where lumber will go. I'm counting on being able to make one entire wall lumber racking, and take full advantage of the machines' mobile bases. I don't have much choice. Something's gotta' give ;-)

The dog: well … Grizzly included him on the Shop Planner, and … what the heck … may as well see how he/she would fit in.

You're right about the tripping hazard, though, and I can't count on that darned (potential) dog to get out of MY way, when I can't see where I'm going 

Obviously, things on wheels creates a lot of flexibility, but … if I'm going to start building in electrical-ceiling, wall, and floor mounted-I'd like to get it pretty close to where it ought to be.

The light fixtures: I was thinking surface-mount, rather than flush mount, but … I'll probably be driven more by cost than anything else. It WILL be nice not to keep smacking my hanging fixtures with boards, wondering which time I'll rain glass and who-knows-what-else down on me 

I actually DO do yoga … occasionally … but LOML is pretty well into it, and … hers is a pretty simple build (big room, float a cork floor). But … for the good of Humanity … if/when I am doing yoga … it SHOULD be outside of the view of others LOL !

*Sharon*: yeah. I will have to figure out how to keep the aisle ways clear. The "on paper" layout is definitely going to be nothing more than a starting place. I'm sure lots of tweaks will happen along the way … once I get in there. My passageways are very tight, now, so … I tend to use echolocation to get through my shop. My wife gets alarmed by all the weird clicking noises, but … that's life ;-)

I'm also trying to figure out how/if a cabinet saw can be jammed into the budget, so … I have to revise this to accommodate a biggun, with 52" rails.

It's definitely trying to get ten gallons of water into a five gallon bucket.


----------



## MedicKen (Dec 2, 2008)

I would rethink the 52" rails on the saw. You are going to be limited on room and the only real reason for rails that long is for plywood and other sheet goods. I think I would use a smaller rail and knock down the ply with a circular saw outside or in another part of the shop prior to heading to the table saw. 4×8 sheets are hard enough to handle even without the cramped space. If I were doing this, and i'm not, at least not yet, I would look at possibly getting the Festool panel saw instead of the big rail system.


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

That's a good thought, Ken.

I was thinking what a luxury it would be to NOT have to cut down sheet goods with a circ/track saw, but … you might be right … that the extra space might be the real luxury.

I noticed the "American Woodworker" knocks everything down with the DeWalt track saw. Seems brain-dead-easy, and perfectly accurate.

Yeah. Good thought. Thank you.


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

You gonna start building prefabricated houses in there? Gadzooks, a serious shop.

Nothing I would rather do than start from scratch, but it isn't gonna happen. However, I am finally throwing stuff out that I haven't used for 20 years.

I have the room in theory to cut down a 4×8 piece of plywood, but it is just too much hassle to move the piece around. Out comes the circular saw, in my case. I have thought of getting the Festool plunge saw, but haven't got there yet.

Later…......busy this morning…......


----------



## REK (Aug 30, 2009)

Nbeener,

My old shop had that exact same foot print, maybe 5' shorter and the ceiling was only 6' high.
It's a nice size good thing you have things on wheels because you'll always be needing to move something.
Your layout drawing look pretty good. I have my dust collectiion in one place and I roll my
tools up to it. Now I have a little area off the side where my jointer drum sander and planer
are rolled up to the dust collector. the table saw router table and miter saw are stationary.
4-6 months is quite a wait, you have plenty to look forward to now!!!


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

For the record, the new grill worked great…Sherie always complained the grill at home made pork chops too dry, but these came out moist and perfectly done. Probably will require a little more attention to cleaning, but not much else.

Will have to try a few more things…....


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Neil, I've got the 52" rails on my saw in a small shop. They definitely eat up space and I have to constantly maneuver around them, or slam into them (more commonly). Aside from getting the fence far out of the way, my projects don't usually require the long rails. Maybe yours will; maybe not. I'm saving up for PM2000 so I'll have the same dilemma soon.


----------



## MedicKen (Dec 2, 2008)

I used to have the big rails on my unisaw and now I am glad they are gone. I found it became more of a catch all than anything else. It is a very large open flat surface and it seemed to be loaded all the time with everything.


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

I second what everyone else says, the long rails are useful for shoving the fence out of the way for the sleds, but otherwise doesn't get used much. And as Al notes that area is littered with stuff all the time.


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

All good points. I was going under the assumption that-like "two more horsepower"-it didn't have much downside.

But … yeah … it does … particularly if space is an issue, AND … since the ONE advantage it offers (handling sheet goods) CAN easily be handled in other ways.

Plus … the 30" rails are a bit cheaper, which … has a certain appeal 

*Al*: I know you're not a fan of the SawStop, but … do you have any other contenders you're considering ? For me, it's Unisaw, PM2000, and SawStop, and … at this point … I could pretty happily flip a three-sided coin, and be find with whatever decision IT made


----------



## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

Neil … I'm envious!

I think I might be tempted to do away with the 52" rails as well. They might come in handy once in a great while, but at what cost in terms of the space they eat up?

Are the stairs going to be a hassle? My son-in-law's dad has a similar layout, and has always had problems moving machinery and sheet goods into the shop. Biggest problem he had was getting a vintage Oliver lathe (~500 lbs … talk about big iron!) that he bought from a school shop down the stairs.

-Gerry


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

*Gerry*:

My current shop is in the basement, and … yeah … the stairs are a royal pain.

In fact … if I DO buy a new cabinet saw … I'm going to ask the builder whether there's-literally-any way to lower it into the shop area … like … with a crane … before they button everything up.

The good news is … I got all my current machines DOWN the stairs by myself, and … somehow … will probably get them back UP the stairs, the same way.

But it's drudgery, and risky.

The real hope is that … this is our LAST move for a long time, and … once they're down there … they'll STAY down there 

I think y'all have me convinced to go with the shorter rails. Too many arguments to NOT get them, and not enough arguments TO get them.

And … with space being at a bit of a premium … it wasn't a hard sell


----------



## Moops (Mar 22, 2011)

To alleviate your stair/equipment issue, put in an exterior entrance stairway to the basement. I have one ~40" wide and it is super-convenient. It's still stairs, but not as many, and with no walls to worry about at the top of the stair it's not necessary to plan out your rotating maneuvers with a 300lb chunk of iron. I'm replacing the door this summer with one of these: Bilco Door


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Thanks, *Moops*.

I'll have to see if that's permissible. It's (ugh) an HOA "covenant-controlled" community, AND … about a 40' wide house on a 60' wide lot, meaning … with setbacks and all … I'll have to see if it's physically possible, and/or "legally" (compliance with City codes) possible. Maybe in the back. SHOULD be physically feasible, there.

We really wanted a lot with a walk-out basement, but … it just wouldn't work out-not in the neighborhood we like, anyway.

Knock wood (no pun intended), I've gotten everything DOWN the stairs, so far, without a nick, a chip, or a dent.

We'll be meeting with the builder in the next week or two. I'm going to take the info for the "Bilco Doors" with me, and see what he thinks. What it would cost me in wall space … might be MORE THAN worth the trade-off.

Thanks for that !


----------



## dpop24 (May 14, 2011)

From the first drawing, it appears that there is a wide opening between the shop and the yoga studio. Is there a way to close that in? I would think the last thing you would want is the wife complaining about her yoga mat being dusty! Also, is there a concern about noise coming from the shop into the peaceful tranquility of her yoga studio or do you just promise not to be running power tools while she's over there?

Looks like a great plan, I was just thinking of the "keep the wife happy" elements.


----------



## MedicKen (Dec 2, 2008)

If this guy can get a 24" 2000# jointer down stairs and into a basement I dont see any problem getting a small 400# saw in there

http://www.owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=29152


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

*dpop*:

I've been *agonizing* over the elements of that very issue. Here's where I'm at, so far:

- My shop will be enclosed. Her yoga studio will be enclosed. There will be hallway/dead space between the rooms;

- Each of the spaces-mine and hers-will use 2×6 framing, insulation, and either SoundBoard or double/triple drywall on the "interior" walls-those NOT against the concrete foundation;

- The joists will have insulation (rigid foam board, blown cellulose, or fiberglass batting) between them. The ceilings of both will be drywalled;

- I'm working with the builder to cost out some additional "soundproofing measures," like resilient channel, flooring, de-coupled wall, adding mass, etc.

In other words … I agree with you 100%. Realistically, her yoga time and my shop time DO NOT HAVE to overlap, but … better safe than sorry.

Besides … that new age music would bug me, when I'm trying to rip eight feet of 8/4 walnut on my table saw 

*Ken*: I'm just going to bounce the thing down the stairs, and fix whatever breaks, once I get the shop set up ;-)

Yeah. I found out … most of these things DO break down (or-when new-ARE broken down). It's been a heck of a show watching me get a few things down there, but … it's always worked. I'm actually MORE worried about the noise thing than I am about the tools-down-the-stairs thing.

Lumber and projects, though, ARE more of an ongoing (vs. a one-time) issue-even if they're not a BIG issue. I just sent the "Bilco Door" thing to the builder. If he could, and it if isn't a break-the-bank thing … us basement dwellers would have to admit … it WOULD be pretty cool


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Neil, have you considered an I-beam traveler? If I had my shop "empty" again, I would install one. If I end up re-doing the ceiling in my shop, I'll probably still install one. If I end up building a new dedicated shop, I'll DEFINITELY install one. I don't the noise is going to be as bad as you're imagining. I, too, would be more worried about the "yoga noise"


----------



## SCOTSMAN (Aug 1, 2008)

Well these next few months are going to be exciting ones for you and your darling wife neil have fun take your time and get it right as much as you can first time. best wishes for your new exciting project. Alistair


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Happy wife, happy life 

Thank you, *Alistair.* Very kind words. My best thoughts that you and Bronwen … are in a good patch … with good health … and enjoying life. The two of you have had more than your share ….

*Al*: I just Googled "I-beam traveler." Help me understand, here: is this … just what it sounds like, and … is the primary use as sort of a "horizontal pulley" system, for moving things (eg, lumber, sheet goods) around the shop ?

Would it only run in one direction-say, lengthwise through the shop ?

If I don't have it right … is there a website you can point me to, to better understand ?

I'm not searching for ways to burn money that I don't have. What I DO want to do, though, is to at least consider all the things that can only/best/most cost-effectively be done, during construction 

Thanks !


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

*Al*:

THIS kind of thing ???

If that's the sort of thing you mean … well …

Oh, that's got real potential


----------



## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

OK Neil, ADA lawsuit in the making!!! Where's the elevator? You never know when one of us cripples is gonna pop in for a few months at a whack. hint hint. I prefer white paint in my bedroom. lol

This is gonna be great, just pop outa bed and go right to making sawdust. I thank you in advance. What a guy!

On the serious side, I agree with the compressor and DC in a separate area. (Don't want to keep me awake, do you?)lol


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Hey, *Rand* ... If I'm not worried about getting a 500 pound cabinet saw down there, you think I'm scared of getting YOU down there ?

No.

I AM slightly concerned that you'd never leave, though, but … that's a different story 

Plus … if I did get that outside entrance … couldn't we just slip a couple of ripped sheets of plywood over the stairs, and … just … sort of EASE your chair down the ramp ?

I mean … what's life without a taste of adventure, every now and then 

And … lastly … as a visually impaired guy … I SHOULD sue MYSELF. There's no way I'll be able to get around that shop without bumping into stuff. Nuh-uh. Not a chance


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

you guys are looking at this all wrong…

Step 1. take tools, place on ground.

Step 2. cover tools with protective sheets

Step 3. build new house around tools.

there - no need to deal with stairs… you are welcome


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

I can't see your links here at work, Neil. But you screw an I-beam of sorts into your ceiling. Our one here at work is actually curved. The traveler runs around on it like a toy train on an upside down track. Many of them have electric winches, etc. I'm thinking of it more for moving heavy equipment. In a basement shop, I imaging the beam extending out to the stairs, you hook up a machine, winch it high, roll it into the open, lower it, then roll it "close" to position. There was an LJ here that employed one in a beautiful freestanding shop. I'll try to find it.


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

I was thinking something like this. Sorry so small.


----------



## bubinga (Feb 5, 2011)

WOW , sounds like, lots of fun setting up a new shop.
I would jump through all kinds of hoops ,to get a Basement Door ,set up in there. I think you will be very happy if you do. I have moved things in and out of differant basements, and the Basement Door,set up is just a breeze compared to others.


----------



## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

My shop is 24'x24' so about the same as yours except yours is longer and narrower. I don't know if your powertool icons are to scale or not but I don't have that much walk around room as depicted in your tool drawing. Be sure to put things on wheels and the stuff that's against the walls set it up carefully.


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

*Al*: yup. That's like the one I found. VERY cool. I'll have to see what I can do.

*EJ*: I think you guys are right: if I CAN, I should. I'll see what the builder says.

*Sharon*: believe me: That's what I was thinking. There HAS to be SOME way to do something that's the equivalent of that  Of course … to begin with … since there won't BE any stairs … that might be a rough 10' drop for some of the larger tools <grin>

*Craftsman*: the Grizzly planner does put the tools in the same scale as the room, so … plus or minus. My tools aren't all Grizzly, so I had to pick some that were probably not THAT close … it should be a rough indicator.

My existing shop is in nearly the same space that I'll be moving into, and … nope … not much walk around room, there, either. You know the drill, though: you make do with what you've got.

I WILL make good use of mobile bases, though, trying to STORE things on the outside walls, and USE them in the center of the space. With luck, not much besides the table saw and the workbench will truly be stationary.

Thanks again


----------



## bubinga (Feb 5, 2011)

I saw Basement Door ,set up,like that, where they had fiberglass mobile stairs.
Did you see this, PermEntry® Basement Entrance


----------



## dpop24 (May 14, 2011)

I'm also in the middle of having a shop built in our new home. We are remodeling/adding on rather than building from scratch though, so I'm making considerable effort into sound suppression - which is actually my foremost concern as we have two small kids (3 1/2 and 2) and their bedrooms will be directly upstairs from my shop.

The one thing I can offer as advice from our ordeal is to be sure to keep your contractor on point on the budget. It can get out of hand QUICK when you're putting your wish list items into the plan. You'll have to make trade-offs to stay on budget. Our contractor came in $150K over budget after weeks and weeks of encouraging us to design our wish list items in. We assumed he was keeping an eye on the budge and would tell us if we were getting out of hand. He was not and I assure you, your contractor is probably not either.

So, after the initial excitement of seeing the wish list plans, we are shocked back to reality, cutting everything we just added and are still well over budget. Good luck with yours, I hope you have a better experience with designing, with your contractor, and with keeping within your budget!


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Thanks, *dpop*.

Luckily (?), it's not a custom house, but … "semi-custom," meaning … the floor plan is set. What we're looking at-including finishing the basement-are "options" or "upgrades," and … we won't make a move on any of them until they've been evaluated and priced, after which point-any of the ones on which we agree to proceed-will be done *at that price.*

I'm sorry you're having the experience that you are. It seems all too easy to have these costs get away from you-just as you describe.

We're currently living IN a 'semi-custom' house, so … we understand this part of the process. In the case of the current house, the deal was the deal, and the price was the price.

I know custom can be an entirely different animal.

What will you be doing to help keep the noise level down between the levels, then ??


----------



## mrbaseballny (Jul 1, 2011)

Came across this photo from finewoodworking.com while getting ideas for my own shop and thought I would share.










Also here is a link to a neat shop layout app -

http://www.finewoodworking.com/workshop-planner

I'm sure some have already seen this, but thought I would share anyways


----------



## rance (Sep 30, 2009)

Neil, I'd move the CMS next to the RAS, in fact, they could share outfeed extensions. Then move the Planer to where the CMS was (closer to the jointer). The TS, Jointer, and Planer should all be adjacent to each other.

I'd prefer DC & air compressor more centrally located for shorter runs. Maybe under the stairs?

For some reason, it seems the router should be up against the wall. No need to have access all the way around it. Alternatively, back the OSS up against the back of it, thus opening up more wall space which is useful for cabinets and other wall-hanging stuff. Or, by leaving out by itself, you can easilly remove the fence, lower the bit and have an additional flat spot for assembly.

Speaking of cabinets and other wall hangings. install 3 rows of french cleats *all the way around the shop*. It makes moving things around much easier.

You don't show any cabinets (uppers or lowers) around the shop. Where are you gonna put your hand tools(drills, circ. saws, screws, glue, and other consumables etc.?

Just my 2c worth. Congrats on the new shop, and the new house.

PS: And if that is a Bench Dog, shouldn't it be closer to the bench?


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Wow, Rance has some really good advice there. What's the final verdict on the flexible compressor tubing? I've heard it both ways. The quick detaches on the wall sure look inviting. I've considered building a shared fence for my RAS and CMS but I rarely use the CMS and the footprint would be huge in my small shop. It's definitely something worth considering; storage beneath; t-tracks and stops; glorious. I wish I had cleated before I put all my tools in the shop. It would sure save a lot of acrobatics.


----------



## rance (Sep 30, 2009)

>"Wow, Rance has some really good advice there."

Al, I assume you are referring to the location of the dog. I may not be a hand-tool guy but I know where a bench dog goes. LOL! 

@Neil, also, maybe have lighting on at least two separate circuits. Centrally located lights, have 1, 7, 3, 9, 5, 11 on one circuit, and the others on another. No sense in wasting power when half will do. Better yet, have 7, 8, 2, 3, 10, 11, 5 on one and the rest on the other, then you have the choice of 3 levels of light.

Task lighting would of course be on a separate circuit, probably with switches at each station.


----------



## rance (Sep 30, 2009)

One more thing, put a floor sweep in your DC design. Also consider blast gates NOW. If you go with gates that control the DC, then this affects your electrical. Optionally, have 3-way DC switches around the shop to control the DC.


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

*Rance*:

I should just fly you out here 

The separate lighting circuits … I DID list. I have them in my current shop. Zero downside.

I don't have a plumbed DC system, but … my gut tells me that's pretty much a must. My remote works well, as does the 25' of high-end hose that I have, but … it may just be time.

And the floor sweep … if I do plumb … should be a given.

The spec is for OSB sheathing, with drywall OVER that, to allow hanging anything … anywhere. I'll either do French cleats, or simply keep my eye out for upper cabinets, when somebody remodels their house. Cheap, from what I've seen.

More great thoughts. More sincere thanks from me


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

*mrbaseballny*: I had NOT seen the FWW shop planner.

I'll start on it, tomorrow. Thanks very much !!

I've also got a few books that I've always found helpful. Ideally, I'll just make sure that things are on wheels, 110V and 220V outlets are plentiful and well located, and that the eventual plumbing of the DC does NOT paint me into a corner.

In other words … I can see the first pass layout, and some tweaks over time.

They're looking into digging me some sort of exterior entrance to the NON-walk-out basement. If it's affordable, it would be a luxury 

Thanks again !


----------



## bubinga (Feb 5, 2011)

Hay maybe you will get the prize, never know !

Your Ultimate Shop
At FineWoodworking Our Dream Shop Planner allows you to digitally design your ultimate workshop. Lay out your plan now for a chance to take home a Titebond prize package valued at over $500!


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

EJ:

I've got a MUCH better chance of winning a "Best Shop" contest than of winning an award for anything I BUILD IN my shop 

I'll have to check that out. Thanks !


----------



## Delta356 (Aug 2, 2010)

Very cool. It's always fun to lay out a shop. Only problem is all the lifting. 
Have fun with the knew shop.

Thanks, Michael Frey
Portland, OR

FREY WOODWORKING INC.


----------



## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

Never planned a shop from scratch, and mine is built in a mine field of embedded structures include a walkway, the furnaces/water heater, and a central pillar. A freezer is there as well but is due to be moved. Plus, I am dismantling old hobbies and will soon dismantle an old built in bench…....soon…....meaning in 6 months or so.

The central bench with the most commonly used tools around it looks efficient. One tool I use a lot is the disk sander, mostly for tight fitting pieces, bringing them down to precise size incrementally, so I need my disk right next to the bench where I fit and construct things, the multifunction bench.

I find having small power tools, such as the random orbital sander and the multitool plugged in and close at hand very useful. Currently, mine are plugged in at my old full size bench, but are used nearby at the multifunction bench (minibench, project table, frankenbench, whatever). They can also be plugged into the multifunction bench, but there isn't much room left underneath it.

By keeping things mobile, you should be able to set up differently for different projects. Just make sure you have some flexible connection hose for the DC, and a few "just in case" ports around the room.

On call, irritable, and grumpy…............

Jim


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Good thoughts, *Jim*.

The more I think about this, the more I conclude that … whatever I FIRST do … will not be where I WIND UP.

So … flexibility seems to be the watchword.

It's what keeps me from wanting to initially plumb the DC.

I'm not re-inventing the wheel, here, I DO know that, but …..

I'm going to have to figure out how things work with any given configuration, then spin stuff around a little, and repeat. Good old iterative process.

THEN, I have to consider the universe of likely future tool purchases, and try to plan for those. For power, it's easy. For space and DC, maybe not quite SO easy. And … ideally … my "lumber storage" corner … at some point … will become a "proper" finishing booth, relegating lumber storage to the walls, probably starting about 5' off the ground, above most of the machines.

I figure that all the hand tools, and hand-held power tools are virtually certain to live in cleat-hung cabinets around the perimeter. Since I agree about the bench being pretty central, unless I build a back wall for it (not practical), or put a secondary bench alongside it … "in reach" is probably the best I can do for screw guns, palm sanders, trim routers, and the like.

The UPSIDE to a (relatively) small shop is … that almost nothing will be far away.

Odd. I'm irritable and grumpy, too, and am NOT on call ;-)

Let's hope they don't need you. Babies USED to be born without OB-GYN's, ya' know ;-)

Thanks, *Michael* ! I may well be getting too old to get all this stuff OUTTA one basement and INTO another. May pay for that. Once it's on the dance floor, well … THEN I can spin it around by myself.

And I probably WILL-if nothing else-put a couple of good anchor points for my HF block and tackle, around the place.


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Neil, I think if you just lay a perimeter of DC piping, you can always change the drops at a later date (assuming you're not going under the floor). I'm considering just that, running rigids along the perimeter of my shop attic. I'd be more worried about electrical but it sounds like you've got that well planned.


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

It sounds like you're right, *Al*.

Particularly with PVC or ABS … it's NOT hard to splice.

Good thought ! Thank you !


----------

