# Simple Jigs and Techniques



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

*Simple Precision Arc Inlay Jig*

*I had the need *this afternoon for a way to cut a curved groove for a veneer inlay. It needed to be absolutely accurate and easy enough that even I couldn't screw it up. A half hour later I had this little jig. I thought someone else may find it useful.

*The first photos* are self explanatory and show the simple construction and assembly of the base and pivot arm. The featured performer is one of my personal favourite Harbour Freight tools, the trim router.



















*In the next photo* the base has been cut off at the 6 1/2" radius that I require for this job. This is the only critical measurement here and it can be made with a regular tape measure. The accuracy lies elsewhere.
As you can see, I like to do cutoffs over foam insulation.










*This one shows *the obvious, that is that the cut in the base is exactly where the cut will be in any piece the base is clamped to.









*Here I'm making* a trial cut in a piece of plywood to check depth of cut to match my veneer thickness.










*Here's the obvious again*. I love it when these things are this obvious. It makes it much harder (although not impossible) to screw up in a moment's lack of focus. The inner cut radius is exactly where the edge of the base is.










*Now the depth* of cut has been adjusted and exactly matches the veneer thickness.









*And finally*, here's why this has to be so precise. There's just no room for error here. Even so, I will be making this cut in the morning with a clear head and I'll be thinking it through very carefully before any routers get turned on.









*There are lots* of bells and whistles that could be added to this but all I needed was a one time non-adjustable, deadly accurate, deadly obvious jig that I could make, use and chuck. That's the way I usually think about jigs in general.

Thanks for looking. I hope this helps someone somewhere.

Paul


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Simple Precision Arc Inlay Jig*
> 
> *I had the need *this afternoon for a way to cut a curved groove for a veneer inlay. It needed to be absolutely accurate and easy enough that even I couldn't screw it up. A half hour later I had this little jig. I thought someone else may find it useful.
> 
> ...


hey Paul
These kind of Jigs are great good job .Thanks for sharing.


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## rustynails (Jun 23, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Simple Precision Arc Inlay Jig*
> 
> *I had the need *this afternoon for a way to cut a curved groove for a veneer inlay. It needed to be absolutely accurate and easy enough that even I couldn't screw it up. A half hour later I had this little jig. I thought someone else may find it useful.
> 
> ...


How are you getting the piece of veneer to fit in the grove? As in width wise and arc? I am guessing you are using the jig with a knife to cut the veneer? 
Thanks Richard


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Simple Precision Arc Inlay Jig*
> 
> *I had the need *this afternoon for a way to cut a curved groove for a veneer inlay. It needed to be absolutely accurate and easy enough that even I couldn't screw it up. A half hour later I had this little jig. I thought someone else may find it useful.
> 
> ...


The veneer arc is cut on the chevalet.


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## MNedman (Dec 1, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Simple Precision Arc Inlay Jig*
> 
> *I had the need *this afternoon for a way to cut a curved groove for a veneer inlay. It needed to be absolutely accurate and easy enough that even I couldn't screw it up. A half hour later I had this little jig. I thought someone else may find it useful.
> 
> ...


love it Paul…one time use and chuck. Seems like the only way to screw it up would be to go past your starting and finish point. Maybe think about adding some stops to limit the rotation to exactly what you need?


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Simple Precision Arc Inlay Jig*
> 
> *I had the need *this afternoon for a way to cut a curved groove for a veneer inlay. It needed to be absolutely accurate and easy enough that even I couldn't screw it up. A half hour later I had this little jig. I thought someone else may find it useful.
> 
> ...


A great jig but the project in progress is amazing! Can't wait to see it finished.


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## peteg (Sep 2, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Simple Precision Arc Inlay Jig*
> 
> *I had the need *this afternoon for a way to cut a curved groove for a veneer inlay. It needed to be absolutely accurate and easy enough that even I couldn't screw it up. A half hour later I had this little jig. I thought someone else may find it useful.
> 
> ...


Aaaaahhhh the thinkin man is at it again, 
Paul you make it look like these crafty aids just simply fall of the bench no sweat, .... yer right
Bet there are a few copies made of this one :: )))
Pete


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## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Simple Precision Arc Inlay Jig*
> 
> *I had the need *this afternoon for a way to cut a curved groove for a veneer inlay. It needed to be absolutely accurate and easy enough that even I couldn't screw it up. A half hour later I had this little jig. I thought someone else may find it useful.
> 
> ...


Paul,

We love your solution! It seems I spend more time making jigs than the actual cuts! Our next project is to build a 50,000-square-foot warehouse to store all the jigs. After that we'll need to hire staff to keep them documented so we can find them when we need them.

Oh, wait, maybe we should just chuck them and not build the warehouse or hire the staff!

L/W


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## rustynails (Jun 23, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Simple Precision Arc Inlay Jig*
> 
> *I had the need *this afternoon for a way to cut a curved groove for a veneer inlay. It needed to be absolutely accurate and easy enough that even I couldn't screw it up. A half hour later I had this little jig. I thought someone else may find it useful.
> 
> ...


The veneer arc is cut on the chevalet

Thanks Paul


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## Radish (Apr 11, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Simple Precision Arc Inlay Jig*
> 
> *I had the need *this afternoon for a way to cut a curved groove for a veneer inlay. It needed to be absolutely accurate and easy enough that even I couldn't screw it up. A half hour later I had this little jig. I thought someone else may find it useful.
> 
> ...


Pucker factor of 12 on that cut. Very ingenious, and I can absolutely see a HF trimmer in my future for dedicated jigging. Thank you for sharing this.


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## Bluepine38 (Dec 14, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Simple Precision Arc Inlay Jig*
> 
> *I had the need *this afternoon for a way to cut a curved groove for a veneer inlay. It needed to be absolutely accurate and easy enough that even I couldn't screw it up. A half hour later I had this little jig. I thought someone else may find it useful.
> 
> ...


Wonderful jig and easy to make and use, now if I could just manage to make the beautiful project you are
using it on, I would really be happy. Thank you for sharing.


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## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Simple Precision Arc Inlay Jig*
> 
> *I had the need *this afternoon for a way to cut a curved groove for a veneer inlay. It needed to be absolutely accurate and easy enough that even I couldn't screw it up. A half hour later I had this little jig. I thought someone else may find it useful.
> 
> ...


Nice work Paul.

HF trimmer - I need to check that out.
Routing over foam board - Love it.
What you are really working on - My gosh….

Steve


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## toeachhisown (Eddie) (Mar 30, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Simple Precision Arc Inlay Jig*
> 
> *I had the need *this afternoon for a way to cut a curved groove for a veneer inlay. It needed to be absolutely accurate and easy enough that even I couldn't screw it up. A half hour later I had this little jig. I thought someone else may find it useful.
> 
> ...


*shipwright* very cleaver jig , could be used for many more things ,thanks for sharing and the 
project in progress its looks to be a beauty.


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## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Simple Precision Arc Inlay Jig*
> 
> *I had the need *this afternoon for a way to cut a curved groove for a veneer inlay. It needed to be absolutely accurate and easy enough that even I couldn't screw it up. A half hour later I had this little jig. I thought someone else may find it useful.
> 
> ...


You sure do nice work, Paul. That's a nice jig too.

helluvawreck
https://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Simple Precision Arc Inlay Jig*
> 
> *I had the need *this afternoon for a way to cut a curved groove for a veneer inlay. It needed to be absolutely accurate and easy enough that even I couldn't screw it up. A half hour later I had this little jig. I thought someone else may find it useful.
> 
> ...


Clever simple jig, with a precut side that gives you exact place to set it.
Keep the head clean.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Simple Precision Arc Inlay Jig*
> 
> *I had the need *this afternoon for a way to cut a curved groove for a veneer inlay. It needed to be absolutely accurate and easy enough that even I couldn't screw it up. A half hour later I had this little jig. I thought someone else may find it useful.
> 
> ...


when you do it it seems so simple. LOL!


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Simple Precision Arc Inlay Jig*
> 
> *I had the need *this afternoon for a way to cut a curved groove for a veneer inlay. It needed to be absolutely accurate and easy enough that even I couldn't screw it up. A half hour later I had this little jig. I thought someone else may find it useful.
> 
> ...


Thanks everyone, glad to share and help.

You'll have to be patient about the piece in the last photo. It's a fair way off yet.


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## justoneofme (Aug 11, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Simple Precision Arc Inlay Jig*
> 
> *I had the need *this afternoon for a way to cut a curved groove for a veneer inlay. It needed to be absolutely accurate and easy enough that even I couldn't screw it up. A half hour later I had this little jig. I thought someone else may find it useful.
> 
> ...


WOW PAUL! That's just awesome!, and I can't wait to get myself out there this a.m. to view the real thing!! See ya …


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## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Simple Precision Arc Inlay Jig*
> 
> *I had the need *this afternoon for a way to cut a curved groove for a veneer inlay. It needed to be absolutely accurate and easy enough that even I couldn't screw it up. A half hour later I had this little jig. I thought someone else may find it useful.
> 
> ...


Makes me think of many uses for such a jig…thanks…


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## boxcarmarty (Dec 9, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Simple Precision Arc Inlay Jig*
> 
> *I had the need *this afternoon for a way to cut a curved groove for a veneer inlay. It needed to be absolutely accurate and easy enough that even I couldn't screw it up. A half hour later I had this little jig. I thought someone else may find it useful.
> 
> ...


Nice jig Paul. But it's kinda hard to chuck something that looks and works that good…..


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## nomercadies (Dec 31, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Simple Precision Arc Inlay Jig*
> 
> *I had the need *this afternoon for a way to cut a curved groove for a veneer inlay. It needed to be absolutely accurate and easy enough that even I couldn't screw it up. A half hour later I had this little jig. I thought someone else may find it useful.
> 
> ...


What a wonderful world I have discovered here. This is great. Thank you so much for your information.


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## tinnman65 (Jan 19, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Simple Precision Arc Inlay Jig*
> 
> *I had the need *this afternoon for a way to cut a curved groove for a veneer inlay. It needed to be absolutely accurate and easy enough that even I couldn't screw it up. A half hour later I had this little jig. I thought someone else may find it useful.
> 
> ...


Another very nice jig. This seems to be one of the aspects of woodworking you are very good at "problem solving" !


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## Druid (Sep 30, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Simple Precision Arc Inlay Jig*
> 
> *I had the need *this afternoon for a way to cut a curved groove for a veneer inlay. It needed to be absolutely accurate and easy enough that even I couldn't screw it up. A half hour later I had this little jig. I thought someone else may find it useful.
> 
> ...


Simple yet beautiful. Thanks for the idea Paul.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Simple Precision Arc Inlay Jig*
> 
> *I had the need *this afternoon for a way to cut a curved groove for a veneer inlay. It needed to be absolutely accurate and easy enough that even I couldn't screw it up. A half hour later I had this little jig. I thought someone else may find it useful.
> 
> ...


Thank you Paul.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Simple Precision Arc Inlay Jig*
> 
> *I had the need *this afternoon for a way to cut a curved groove for a veneer inlay. It needed to be absolutely accurate and easy enough that even I couldn't screw it up. A half hour later I had this little jig. I thought someone else may find it useful.
> 
> ...


Sweet. Thnx fer the how to. Gr8 and simple jig


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

*Precision Router Jig for Straight Lines.*

*This is basically* the same as the arc jig in the first segment but for a straight line rebate in a spot where it would be a bit of a shame to miss the target.

*It starts out* as a piece of 1/4" MDF glued to a piece of 1/8" plywood. The plywood is more than 1/2 the width of the router base. Use the bit you plan to use for the cut and trim the plywood using the MDF as a guide.










*Now when you set up* to make the cut you can see exactly where it will fall on the workpiece. No measurements need to be taken.

*When I use* measurements I find that there is always a way to screw them up so I avoid them with little jigs like this whenever I can. In this case I'm installing a 3/16" wide banding between a marquetry surface and a solid one. I'm using a 1/8" bit and after the first cut I will fit the one edge of the banding against the first cut and the jig tight against the other. The second pass will make a perfect fit and again I won't have to measure anything.










*I usually make these* sort of jigs for a single job and chuck them when it's done. If you keep it mark it with the router and bit size it was made with.

*This jig is just common sense* and probably not news to most of you but I just liked how easy it made a "high pucker factor" rebate slide by with no real sweat on my side of the router.

Thanks for looking in.

Comments critiques etc welcome always

Paul


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## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Precision Router Jig for Straight Lines.*
> 
> *This is basically* the same as the arc jig in the first segment but for a straight line rebate in a spot where it would be a bit of a shame to miss the target.
> 
> ...


Pretty slick!!.............Jim


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## longgone (May 5, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Precision Router Jig for Straight Lines.*
> 
> *This is basically* the same as the arc jig in the first segment but for a straight line rebate in a spot where it would be a bit of a shame to miss the target.
> 
> ...


Jigs always come in so handy Paul. Makes life easier.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Precision Router Jig for Straight Lines.*
> 
> *This is basically* the same as the arc jig in the first segment but for a straight line rebate in a spot where it would be a bit of a shame to miss the target.
> 
> ...


Very similar to a shop made circular saw guide ,good job Paul.


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## BertFlores58 (May 26, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Precision Router Jig for Straight Lines.*
> 
> *This is basically* the same as the arc jig in the first segment but for a straight line rebate in a spot where it would be a bit of a shame to miss the target.
> 
> ...


Hi Paul,
I usually go for direct quide nailed or clamped on the workpiece because of the bits cutting capacity. Those bits available here are not really long enough to route the depth I required. But good you have posted this method because I need this technique for angled cut on my recent project. I will just incline (tapering or sliding on the bit end) to my desired angle-in this case 4.5 degree inclined to produce an edge of 85.5 degrees… 40 pcs of these pieces will form a cylinder.
Thanks for the idea, Paul.


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

shipwright said:


> *Precision Router Jig for Straight Lines.*
> 
> *This is basically* the same as the arc jig in the first segment but for a straight line rebate in a spot where it would be a bit of a shame to miss the target.
> 
> ...


Paul: Another great tip. Now I hope I can remember it when in the trenches.


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## Woodenwizard (Jan 25, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Precision Router Jig for Straight Lines.*
> 
> *This is basically* the same as the arc jig in the first segment but for a straight line rebate in a spot where it would be a bit of a shame to miss the target.
> 
> ...


Thanks for sharing. I plan on using this in the future. Just need to find the time and right project.


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## HalDougherty (Jul 15, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Precision Router Jig for Straight Lines.*
> 
> *This is basically* the same as the arc jig in the first segment but for a straight line rebate in a spot where it would be a bit of a shame to miss the target.
> 
> ...


Make it just a little bigger and attach a board at the end so you can see where both sides of the router bit hit the workpiece and it will make a simple dado jig too.


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## rance (Sep 30, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Precision Router Jig for Straight Lines.*
> 
> *This is basically* the same as the arc jig in the first segment but for a straight line rebate in a spot where it would be a bit of a shame to miss the target.
> 
> ...


It looks like the guide I see for circular saws a lot.(Edit: Oh, Jim already mentioned this.) It hadn't occurred to me to use it for a trim router. You could also make it double-edged to accomodate two different diameter bits. Looks very useful. Thanks for sharing Paul.


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## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Precision Router Jig for Straight Lines.*
> 
> *This is basically* the same as the arc jig in the first segment but for a straight line rebate in a spot where it would be a bit of a shame to miss the target.
> 
> ...


The time to make a jig is always worth it! Good thinking Paul!


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## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Precision Router Jig for Straight Lines.*
> 
> *This is basically* the same as the arc jig in the first segment but for a straight line rebate in a spot where it would be a bit of a shame to miss the target.
> 
> ...


I've used the same type of guides for my Circular Saw and larger Router & 1/2" bit. I clamp mine onto the workpiece.

The same guide here is for a Small router & bit…

Very NICE cutting guide… Very easy to setup and use…

I'm now waiting to see the wonderful creations being made by using it! LOL

Thank you.


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## DJPeck (May 16, 2012)

shipwright said:


> *Precision Router Jig for Straight Lines.*
> 
> *This is basically* the same as the arc jig in the first segment but for a straight line rebate in a spot where it would be a bit of a shame to miss the target.
> 
> ...


"High pucker factor" woodworking. LOL, we have all had those moments! Thanks, Paul for a tip and a laugh!


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## RogerBean (Apr 25, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Precision Router Jig for Straight Lines.*
> 
> *This is basically* the same as the arc jig in the first segment but for a straight line rebate in a spot where it would be a bit of a shame to miss the target.
> 
> ...


Paul,
Good idea. I can't seem to measure properly either.
Roger


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## Schwieb (Dec 3, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Precision Router Jig for Straight Lines.*
> 
> *This is basically* the same as the arc jig in the first segment but for a straight line rebate in a spot where it would be a bit of a shame to miss the target.
> 
> ...


I like it Paul. I can see that it works better to use a trim router. I will need to move that one up further on the "to Buy list". Custom one time jigs for high value projects make for a predictable outcome.


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## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Precision Router Jig for Straight Lines.*
> 
> *This is basically* the same as the arc jig in the first segment but for a straight line rebate in a spot where it would be a bit of a shame to miss the target.
> 
> ...


Nice post, Paul.

Don't you just hate those "high pucker factor" portions of a project?

Lee


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## secureplay (Jun 3, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Precision Router Jig for Straight Lines.*
> 
> *This is basically* the same as the arc jig in the first segment but for a straight line rebate in a spot where it would be a bit of a shame to miss the target.
> 
> ...


Paul -

Good post, as usual. Your underlying message as well as the work of Martyn and others is to use jigs and relative measurements rather than dimensions is probably one of the true secrets of better woodworking.

Thanks!

Steve


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Precision Router Jig for Straight Lines.*
> 
> *This is basically* the same as the arc jig in the first segment but for a straight line rebate in a spot where it would be a bit of a shame to miss the target.
> 
> ...


Yes Steve, I guess that is my biggest point. 
It's certainly not a new or revolutionary jig. 
I just liked the comfort level it gave me and wanted to make a note of it.

Thanks everyone for looking and for your comments.


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## MNedman (Dec 1, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Precision Router Jig for Straight Lines.*
> 
> *This is basically* the same as the arc jig in the first segment but for a straight line rebate in a spot where it would be a bit of a shame to miss the target.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the tip Paul..I'm sure I will be making one of these soon! Looks like that little harbor freight router is going to come in quite handy. Thanks for the reco on that one too!


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## vipond33 (Jul 25, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Precision Router Jig for Straight Lines.*
> 
> *This is basically* the same as the arc jig in the first segment but for a straight line rebate in a spot where it would be a bit of a shame to miss the target.
> 
> ...


Hi Paul, I'm sure I've done this but I'm a bit confused. 
"after the first cut I will fit the one edge of the banding against the first cut and the jig tight against the other" 
Could you re-word this? i.e. show me how you made a perfect 3/16" slot with a 1/8" bit. thanks
gene


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Precision Router Jig for Straight Lines.*
> 
> *This is basically* the same as the arc jig in the first segment but for a straight line rebate in a spot where it would be a bit of a shame to miss the target.
> 
> ...


How about " one edge of a piece of banding against the outside edge of the first cut and line the jig up tight against the other side of the piece of banding. The piece of banding will now span the first 1/8" cut and 1/16" of uncut material. As the jig will cut exactly at it's edge it will widen the existing groove to exactly the width of the banding" ?

Does that work? I know the sequence works but maybe I'm just not as good a writer as I am a router. ;-)


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

*Matching Short Grain Veneer Border*

*As the series* title says, this is a simple technique but when I discovered it it was a "Dohhh !!!" moment so I thought I might spare someone the pain. I like to use short grain borders, especially nice straight grains like cedar on picture frames, table tops and that sort of thing. I never had a problem getting good fits at the joints but often matching the grain was a bit of a challenge….. then one day this arrived in my (slow) brain and now it is a breeze even when the grain isn't at 90 degrees to the edge.

*Here are a series* of pieces cut from a piece of cedar veneer about 6" wide. The grains are similar but the joints need help.


















*Just rotate one* piece 180 degrees and slip it under the adjacent one. The grains will lay parallel even if the angle is not 90 degrees. If you sequence the pieces as you cut them off the long piece, the grains will be almost identical (for straight grain woods).



















*Hold the pieces *with their edges even and take them to any sander. I'm using a belt sander here. Sand them parallel to the grain. Pay no attention to square. As long as your edges remain parallel the resulting strip will be straight.










*Re-butt the pieces* and fit the next one before fixing this one with a bit of veneer tape and carry on until you have a full length strip to fit your project.



















*The finished border* can have an interesting and different effect.



















*I know that this *is not news to a great many of you but it was a significant enough penny drop moment for me that I thought it was worth posting.

Thanks for looking in.

Paul


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Matching Short Grain Veneer Border*
> 
> *As the series* title says, this is a simple technique but when I discovered it it was a "Dohhh !!!" moment so I thought I might spare someone the pain. I like to use short grain borders, especially nice straight grains like cedar on picture frames, table tops and that sort of thing. I never had a problem getting good fits at the joints but often matching the grain was a bit of a challenge….. then one day this arrived in my (slow) brain and now it is a breeze even when the grain isn't at 90 degrees to the edge.
> 
> ...


News to me. I'll never do enough to figure this out. Nothing beats years of experience. Thanks for the post.


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## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Matching Short Grain Veneer Border*
> 
> *As the series* title says, this is a simple technique but when I discovered it it was a "Dohhh !!!" moment so I thought I might spare someone the pain. I like to use short grain borders, especially nice straight grains like cedar on picture frames, table tops and that sort of thing. I never had a problem getting good fits at the joints but often matching the grain was a bit of a challenge….. then one day this arrived in my (slow) brain and now it is a breeze even when the grain isn't at 90 degrees to the edge.
> 
> ...


Very good!

Thank you.


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## vipond33 (Jul 25, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Matching Short Grain Veneer Border*
> 
> *As the series* title says, this is a simple technique but when I discovered it it was a "Dohhh !!!" moment so I thought I might spare someone the pain. I like to use short grain borders, especially nice straight grains like cedar on picture frames, table tops and that sort of thing. I never had a problem getting good fits at the joints but often matching the grain was a bit of a challenge….. then one day this arrived in my (slow) brain and now it is a breeze even when the grain isn't at 90 degrees to the edge.
> 
> ...


There's quite a bit of difference from this and using small pieces. In much cross banding sometimes you flip them for match and sometimes you emphasize the flow in a pattern. Wide pieces are harder, but if dimensioned well are really lovely overall. This is a good trick for those straight grained laced up types.
gene


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## ScaleShipWright (Mar 28, 2013)

shipwright said:


> *Matching Short Grain Veneer Border*
> 
> *As the series* title says, this is a simple technique but when I discovered it it was a "Dohhh !!!" moment so I thought I might spare someone the pain. I like to use short grain borders, especially nice straight grains like cedar on picture frames, table tops and that sort of thing. I never had a problem getting good fits at the joints but often matching the grain was a bit of a challenge….. then one day this arrived in my (slow) brain and now it is a breeze even when the grain isn't at 90 degrees to the edge.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the tip Paul


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Matching Short Grain Veneer Border*
> 
> *As the series* title says, this is a simple technique but when I discovered it it was a "Dohhh !!!" moment so I thought I might spare someone the pain. I like to use short grain borders, especially nice straight grains like cedar on picture frames, table tops and that sort of thing. I never had a problem getting good fits at the joints but often matching the grain was a bit of a challenge….. then one day this arrived in my (slow) brain and now it is a breeze even when the grain isn't at 90 degrees to the edge.
> 
> ...


It's news to me Paul. It looks like you did some creative lateral thinking, as this is basically the same principle as jointing two boards face to face at the same time so that the edge matches no matter if it is out of square, except of coarse on a different plane. It looks like a really useful technique for a woodworker to have in his bag of tricks. I like the short grain look too. Thanks for this excellent tip.


----------



## Schwieb (Dec 3, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Matching Short Grain Veneer Border*
> 
> *As the series* title says, this is a simple technique but when I discovered it it was a "Dohhh !!!" moment so I thought I might spare someone the pain. I like to use short grain borders, especially nice straight grains like cedar on picture frames, table tops and that sort of thing. I never had a problem getting good fits at the joints but often matching the grain was a bit of a challenge….. then one day this arrived in my (slow) brain and now it is a breeze even when the grain isn't at 90 degrees to the edge.
> 
> ...


I think I understand this coach. I do a similar strategy when I am gluing up boards for panels. Even though I try to keep my saw and jointer square. This way I am always gluing up complementary angles of the edges relative to the face. Love the frame and the contrasting wood on the desk top is a nice touch.


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Matching Short Grain Veneer Border*
> 
> *As the series* title says, this is a simple technique but when I discovered it it was a "Dohhh !!!" moment so I thought I might spare someone the pain. I like to use short grain borders, especially nice straight grains like cedar on picture frames, table tops and that sort of thing. I never had a problem getting good fits at the joints but often matching the grain was a bit of a challenge….. then one day this arrived in my (slow) brain and now it is a breeze even when the grain isn't at 90 degrees to the edge.
> 
> ...


Everything you do is significant, Paul.


----------



## Bluepine38 (Dec 14, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Matching Short Grain Veneer Border*
> 
> *As the series* title says, this is a simple technique but when I discovered it it was a "Dohhh !!!" moment so I thought I might spare someone the pain. I like to use short grain borders, especially nice straight grains like cedar on picture frames, table tops and that sort of thing. I never had a problem getting good fits at the joints but often matching the grain was a bit of a challenge….. then one day this arrived in my (slow) brain and now it is a breeze even when the grain isn't at 90 degrees to the edge.
> 
> ...


Great and simple way to match grain, and it can be used on larger pieces of wood also. Thank you once again
for sharing.


----------



## mauibob (Jan 1, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Matching Short Grain Veneer Border*
> 
> *As the series* title says, this is a simple technique but when I discovered it it was a "Dohhh !!!" moment so I thought I might spare someone the pain. I like to use short grain borders, especially nice straight grains like cedar on picture frames, table tops and that sort of thing. I never had a problem getting good fits at the joints but often matching the grain was a bit of a challenge….. then one day this arrived in my (slow) brain and now it is a breeze even when the grain isn't at 90 degrees to the edge.
> 
> ...


Have also done this with boards, but never thought of using it for short grain borders. Thanks for the great tip, Paul!


----------



## JR45 (Jan 26, 2012)

shipwright said:


> *Matching Short Grain Veneer Border*
> 
> *As the series* title says, this is a simple technique but when I discovered it it was a "Dohhh !!!" moment so I thought I might spare someone the pain. I like to use short grain borders, especially nice straight grains like cedar on picture frames, table tops and that sort of thing. I never had a problem getting good fits at the joints but often matching the grain was a bit of a challenge….. then one day this arrived in my (slow) brain and now it is a breeze even when the grain isn't at 90 degrees to the edge.
> 
> ...


Paul
Thanks for the tip. I now see how nice your desk top is!!
Jim


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Matching Short Grain Veneer Border*
> 
> *As the series* title says, this is a simple technique but when I discovered it it was a "Dohhh !!!" moment so I thought I might spare someone the pain. I like to use short grain borders, especially nice straight grains like cedar on picture frames, table tops and that sort of thing. I never had a problem getting good fits at the joints but often matching the grain was a bit of a challenge….. then one day this arrived in my (slow) brain and now it is a breeze even when the grain isn't at 90 degrees to the edge.
> 
> ...


Thanks for sharing Paul.


----------



## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Matching Short Grain Veneer Border*
> 
> *As the series* title says, this is a simple technique but when I discovered it it was a "Dohhh !!!" moment so I thought I might spare someone the pain. I like to use short grain borders, especially nice straight grains like cedar on picture frames, table tops and that sort of thing. I never had a problem getting good fits at the joints but often matching the grain was a bit of a challenge….. then one day this arrived in my (slow) brain and now it is a breeze even when the grain isn't at 90 degrees to the edge.
> 
> ...


Paul,

So many useful tips you share! Now, if only I could remember them.

L/W


----------



## Roz (Jan 13, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Matching Short Grain Veneer Border*
> 
> *As the series* title says, this is a simple technique but when I discovered it it was a "Dohhh !!!" moment so I thought I might spare someone the pain. I like to use short grain borders, especially nice straight grains like cedar on picture frames, table tops and that sort of thing. I never had a problem getting good fits at the joints but often matching the grain was a bit of a challenge….. then one day this arrived in my (slow) brain and now it is a breeze even when the grain isn't at 90 degrees to the edge.
> 
> ...


Paul, I like your tips and pointers. I appreciate you sharing your skill and years of experience with us. Thanks. TLR


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

*Veneer Press Screws for $4.50*

*When I built* my small veneer press in Green Valley I made six holes for screws, like my bigger one at home but only installed four screws because they are expensive and I wasn't sure I really needed six.




  






*Then I stole one* to make my Miter Jack.










*That left me* somewhat deficient in veneer press screws so I decided to try something I have been thinking about for a while now. I remember looking at the $6, six Inch "C" clamps at HF and wondering how hard it would be to turn one into a veneer press screw. ...................... Well it turns out, ..... NOT HARD AT ALL.
( ................. and $6 with a 25% off coupon is only $4.50)

*Here's a real one* beside the HF "C" clamp. The threads are a little slower but not much, the length is the same and the ends are different.










*This one shows* what you have when you cut the "nut" off of the clamp and grind the ball off one end of the handle to facilitate installation of the screw in the press.










*And here it is* in the press. The nut will need to be epoxied or well jammed into the beam but it works very well. I guess I'll get a few more. The press was made Q & D from green, wet, nasty construction 2X4s and a couple of the joints have failed so I may replace the whole thing ….. thing is, I installed threaded rods when I built it and it still works fine so it's not that high on the priority list.










*And, as an added bonus* if you make one today, we'll give you absolutely *FREE*, a solid steel bench holdfast. (wedge not included)










*This may not* save all that much on a simple press but at ~$18 each for real ones it would add up quickly if you were considering a large press with many screws.

Here's hoping someone can use this.

Thanks for looking in.

Paul

*Addendum Jan. 2015*

*Well, I finally got around* to replacing the old press with a newer, better built one. This one uses the original three Lee Valley screws in the front frame and three modified HF 8" C clamps in the rear one. I added speed handles made from square U bolts and they all work perfectly. The cost, including handles is about $6.50 each.

*The pictures show* the press set up with an extra long platen for a large job I have coming up and with one of the old frames in the middle. When that job is done the platen will be cut back and the middle frame removed to storage for next time. I only have room for a 20" X 20" press in my little marquetry shop.




























*The original handle* was a 5/16" bar, loose fit. Turns out a 3/8" tap fits right in.


----------



## TerryDowning (Aug 8, 2012)

shipwright said:


> *Veneer Press Screws for $4.50*
> 
> *When I built* my small veneer press in Green Valley I made six holes for screws, like my bigger one at home but only installed four screws because they are expensive and I wasn't sure I really needed six.
> 
> ...


And I even have some C Clamps that are rarely used. Thanks as always for the idea Paul! Had my Miter Jack on hold until I could scrounge enough recycling money for a press screw. Now I just need to find the time.


----------



## rance (Sep 30, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Veneer Press Screws for $4.50*
> 
> *When I built* my small veneer press in Green Valley I made six holes for screws, like my bigger one at home but only installed four screws because they are expensive and I wasn't sure I really needed six.
> 
> ...


Very clever Paul. Good use for a HF clamp. It sure seems there would be a solution using 3/4" all-thread. But I'm guessing it would be more expensive.

Could you elaborate on "a couple of the joints have failed"? It looks like you have your threaded rod as a backup just inside the joints. How did the finger joint fail if the threaded rod was in place? Or were those installed after the failure?


----------



## Sodabowski (Aug 23, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Veneer Press Screws for $4.50*
> 
> *When I built* my small veneer press in Green Valley I made six holes for screws, like my bigger one at home but only installed four screws because they are expensive and I wasn't sure I really needed six.
> 
> ...


I thought you had gone the "vacuum press" way Paul… I actually modified my father's compressor just to do that (by doubling the inlet and adding two manifolds and a vacuum gauge). That's a very clever trick though!


----------



## gbear (Mar 6, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Veneer Press Screws for $4.50*
> 
> *When I built* my small veneer press in Green Valley I made six holes for screws, like my bigger one at home but only installed four screws because they are expensive and I wasn't sure I really needed six.
> 
> ...


Nice tip…I'm glad someone found a use for HF stuff!


----------



## longgone (May 5, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Veneer Press Screws for $4.50*
> 
> *When I built* my small veneer press in Green Valley I made six holes for screws, like my bigger one at home but only installed four screws because they are expensive and I wasn't sure I really needed six.
> 
> ...


Great idea Paul…Those Harbor Freight clamps look like they are just the ticket…amazing what a little imagination and creativeness will accomplish…


----------



## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Veneer Press Screws for $4.50*
> 
> *When I built* my small veneer press in Green Valley I made six holes for screws, like my bigger one at home but only installed four screws because they are expensive and I wasn't sure I really needed six.
> 
> ...


Now that is using your thinker.
I've got to check this out. I hate going into HF though, I always end up with some junk. But one guys junk is another guys treasure.

Talk about a cheap Moxon Vise …

Thanks for the tip.
Steve


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

shipwright said:


> *Veneer Press Screws for $4.50*
> 
> *When I built* my small veneer press in Green Valley I made six holes for screws, like my bigger one at home but only installed four screws because they are expensive and I wasn't sure I really needed six.
> 
> ...


There onsale now for 5.99


----------



## phtaylor36 (Jun 13, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Veneer Press Screws for $4.50*
> 
> *When I built* my small veneer press in Green Valley I made six holes for screws, like my bigger one at home but only installed four screws because they are expensive and I wasn't sure I really needed six.
> 
> ...


Very clever Paul, nice job.


----------



## kiefer (Feb 5, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Veneer Press Screws for $4.50*
> 
> *When I built* my small veneer press in Green Valley I made six holes for screws, like my bigger one at home but only installed four screws because they are expensive and I wasn't sure I really needed six.
> 
> ...


I like that modification and will keep that in mind but no HF up here but Princess Auto may have some cheap .


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Veneer Press Screws for $4.50*
> 
> *When I built* my small veneer press in Green Valley I made six holes for screws, like my bigger one at home but only installed four screws because they are expensive and I wasn't sure I really needed six.
> 
> ...


Some answers:

*Rance*, the problem with all-thread (ready rod in Canada) is it's really slow, too many threads per inch. These need to be quick, especially with HHG.
The rod bolts were put in at the beginning because I didn't trust the construction 2×4s vs. Arizona summer.

*Thomas*, Vacuum bags are great but for marquetry (actually veneer in general) I now prefer screws because you can start at one side and work the pressure to the other. Keep an eye out for my next project. It used that one piece of thin Padauk that I picked up at les fils de J George. ..... Good times.

*Steve*, I love Harbor Freight. Some of my favorite tools come from there. ..... like the trim router.

Thanks all


----------



## jamesbond007 (Jan 3, 2012)

shipwright said:


> *Veneer Press Screws for $4.50*
> 
> *When I built* my small veneer press in Green Valley I made six holes for screws, like my bigger one at home but only installed four screws because they are expensive and I wasn't sure I really needed six.
> 
> ...


Great idea Paul. I'll surely be in HF for a couple of those.

I thought you done most of your veneering/marquetry by using the hammering method with hot hide glue which didn't need clamping.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Veneer Press Screws for $4.50*
> 
> *When I built* my small veneer press in Green Valley I made six holes for screws, like my bigger one at home but only installed four screws because they are expensive and I wasn't sure I really needed six.
> 
> ...


Thanks Jim.
You can't hammer marquetry. I do hammer solid veneer areas like the insides of boxes where there is no marquetry, but you can't work a hammer over all those little pieces without creating an unholy mess. Also hammer veneering relies on a solid surface to prevent air from getting under and breaking the seal so even if you could keep all the bits in place, it still wouldn't work. I hope that makes sense to you.


----------



## Bluepine38 (Dec 14, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Veneer Press Screws for $4.50*
> 
> *When I built* my small veneer press in Green Valley I made six holes for screws, like my bigger one at home but only installed four screws because they are expensive and I wasn't sure I really needed six.
> 
> ...


Just another idea Zoro Tools has a 3' length of 1/2"-10 acme rod for 6.99 and acme nuts are available on 
e-bay, You could build your own press screws fairly economically. I mentioned these sources because they 
are available to everyone. I get my Acme threaded rod and nuts from Fasteners INC. I retired from there 
when I turned 70-5 years ago, but they still have me come back to help out when they get in a bind. I will
finish up my current stint in 2 weeks and retire once more.


----------



## lanwater (May 14, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Veneer Press Screws for $4.50*
> 
> *When I built* my small veneer press in Green Valley I made six holes for screws, like my bigger one at home but only installed four screws because they are expensive and I wasn't sure I really needed six.
> 
> ...


I thought about using the pipe clamp head screw for this but it would have been more expensive.

you showed me a cheaper way.


----------



## Fishfreak911 (Jul 14, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Veneer Press Screws for $4.50*
> 
> *When I built* my small veneer press in Green Valley I made six holes for screws, like my bigger one at home but only installed four screws because they are expensive and I wasn't sure I really needed six.
> 
> ...


Brilliant man! I love the, "But wait! There's MORE!" part at the end.


----------



## tinnman65 (Jan 19, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Veneer Press Screws for $4.50*
> 
> *When I built* my small veneer press in Green Valley I made six holes for screws, like my bigger one at home but only installed four screws because they are expensive and I wasn't sure I really needed six.
> 
> ...


I wanted to build one of these for some time but the price of the screws kept me from it. I use the vacuum press for nearly all my veneer work but Its run off my compressor and if I want to work in the same area when I'm gluing something the noise of that thing turning on every 15min or so drives me nuts. I recently bought a cast iron glue pot and ordered some hide glue from Patrick Edwards. I think I will get a little more familiar with working with hide glue before I build the press. I'm already hooked on the OBG now so I guess hot hide glue would be the next step  You always come up with some great ideas Paul, thanks for sharing with the rest of us.


----------



## Schwieb (Dec 3, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Veneer Press Screws for $4.50*
> 
> *When I built* my small veneer press in Green Valley I made six holes for screws, like my bigger one at home but only installed four screws because they are expensive and I wasn't sure I really needed six.
> 
> ...


There is just no end to your cleverness. Repurposing an inexpensive c-clamp for the screw and the the frame for a bench stay. That's using your noggin. I'm going to borrow that idea.


----------



## rance (Sep 30, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Veneer Press Screws for $4.50*
> 
> *When I built* my small veneer press in Green Valley I made six holes for screws, like my bigger one at home but only installed four screws because they are expensive and I wasn't sure I really needed six.
> 
> ...


>"You can't hammer marquetry."

Now there's a tip. That wouldn't have even crossed my mind. Thanks for pointing that out before I tried that one day.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Veneer Press Screws for $4.50*
> 
> *When I built* my small veneer press in Green Valley I made six holes for screws, like my bigger one at home but only installed four screws because they are expensive and I wasn't sure I really needed six.
> 
> ...


You are very welcome Rance …... just don't ask me how I discovered that. .....


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Veneer Press Screws for $4.50*
> 
> *When I built* my small veneer press in Green Valley I made six holes for screws, like my bigger one at home but only installed four screws because they are expensive and I wasn't sure I really needed six.
> 
> ...


Good idea Paul. I have my hydraulic jack press, but if I build a smaller one I already have the C-clamps to make a press with and they have threads like the regular press screws.


----------



## jmartel (Jul 6, 2012)

shipwright said:


> *Veneer Press Screws for $4.50*
> 
> *When I built* my small veneer press in Green Valley I made six holes for screws, like my bigger one at home but only installed four screws because they are expensive and I wasn't sure I really needed six.
> 
> ...


Good update. Why tap it for 3/8" though? Why not just use a 5/16" and jam nut it together, maybe with some thread lock compound?


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Veneer Press Screws for $4.50*
> 
> *When I built* my small veneer press in Green Valley I made six holes for screws, like my bigger one at home but only installed four screws because they are expensive and I wasn't sure I really needed six.
> 
> ...


More threads to lock with the nuts = better lock and the fit was loose at 5/16". I don't want to glue them in as they have to come out to remove the screw. The originals can be removed by taking the foot piece off.


----------



## RogerBean (Apr 25, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Veneer Press Screws for $4.50*
> 
> *When I built* my small veneer press in Green Valley I made six holes for screws, like my bigger one at home but only installed four screws because they are expensive and I wasn't sure I really needed six.
> 
> ...


Paul,
Good idea. Lots of potential uses for these things.
Roger


----------



## kiefer (Feb 5, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Veneer Press Screws for $4.50*
> 
> *When I built* my small veneer press in Green Valley I made six holes for screws, like my bigger one at home but only installed four screws because they are expensive and I wasn't sure I really needed six.
> 
> ...


I like your way of thinking when it comes to making tools that work but cost very little ,now I am waiting to see for the piece to come out of the press .

Klaus


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Veneer Press Screws for $4.50*
> 
> *When I built* my small veneer press in Green Valley I made six holes for screws, like my bigger one at home but only installed four screws because they are expensive and I wasn't sure I really needed six.
> 
> ...


This is a great idea.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

*All Wood Button Catch*

*I have had several requests* for a blog on the construction of my Chart Box but I don't really think that I did much that isn't already well covered in my other blogs. So any of you who are curious about marquetry in general, please check out my LJ blogs. There is however one sort of new thing in the chart box …...... and that's the catch.

*OK, Here's the catch.*

*The catch I used* on my recently posted Chart Box was derived from the one I used last year on my Picnic / Art Box but it is much cleaner and has a minimum negative effect on the marquetry on the front panel of the box.

















*The hook* is essentially the same and although it looks fragile, made of a very strong wood like Osage Orange it is not. This series of photos is really no more than a shameless show off of a few of the stellar attributes of the Miter Jack. The longer you have one of these the more you wonder how you lived without one. ..... not just for planing miters.




























*The next few* (still showing off the MJ) show the catch shelf being cut in my prototype piece.




























*This one shows* the prototype button (made up of pieces) and the stepped hole. The through hole is 1/2", the next is 3/4" and the last is 1".










*Here the button* is in place with its flange resting in the 3/4" recess.










*... and here the keepers* are in place in the 1" hole. They will prevent the button from rotating out of position as well as retaining it in its place.










*The hook* is glued into a recess in the upper lid.










*Here is the prototype* in my box simulating jig.











*That's just about* all there is to it but since I have the photos, here is a run through on the real box. You will notice a piece of veneer to strengthen the ramp that the hook slides in on. The substrate is poplar and I thought it would wear. The new button is lathe turned and the ramp is cut on it after turning.










*The veneer piece* is in place and the button is in its recess.










*The keepers* are in.










*An alignment check* to make sure the button goes far enough in to push the hook clear of the shelf. It doesn't because I added the veneer …










*... so, as intended*, I added a bit of the same veneer to the end of the button.










*... And that really is it*. I like it a lot because it provides a secure closure, involves no metal and intrudes very little on the marquetry motif on the front.

Thanks for looking in

Paul


----------



## longgone (May 5, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *All Wood Button Catch*
> 
> *I have had several requests* for a blog on the construction of my Chart Box but I don't really think that I did much that isn't already well covered in my other blogs. So any of you who are curious about marquetry in general, please check out my LJ blogs. There is however one sort of new thing in the chart box …...... and that's the catch.
> 
> ...


Wow Paul…the latch itself is a work of pure design fun and ingenuity.


----------



## TerryDowning (Aug 8, 2012)

shipwright said:


> *All Wood Button Catch*
> 
> *I have had several requests* for a blog on the construction of my Chart Box but I don't really think that I did much that isn't already well covered in my other blogs. So any of you who are curious about marquetry in general, please check out my LJ blogs. There is however one sort of new thing in the chart box …...... and that's the catch.
> 
> ...


Yet another shipwright entry added to my favorites list.

Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience Paul.


----------



## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *All Wood Button Catch*
> 
> *I have had several requests* for a blog on the construction of my Chart Box but I don't really think that I did much that isn't already well covered in my other blogs. So any of you who are curious about marquetry in general, please check out my LJ blogs. There is however one sort of new thing in the chart box …...... and that's the catch.
> 
> ...


That is just pure genius! It is a lot more involved than it seemed at first glance.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *All Wood Button Catch*
> 
> *I have had several requests* for a blog on the construction of my Chart Box but I don't really think that I did much that isn't already well covered in my other blogs. So any of you who are curious about marquetry in general, please check out my LJ blogs. There is however one sort of new thing in the chart box …...... and that's the catch.
> 
> ...


Very GOOD!

Thank you.


----------



## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *All Wood Button Catch*
> 
> *I have had several requests* for a blog on the construction of my Chart Box but I don't really think that I did much that isn't already well covered in my other blogs. So any of you who are curious about marquetry in general, please check out my LJ blogs. There is however one sort of new thing in the chart box …...... and that's the catch.
> 
> ...


wonderful, thank you, oh the video was close to winning an Emmy, but there was no talking, ...


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *All Wood Button Catch*
> 
> *I have had several requests* for a blog on the construction of my Chart Box but I don't really think that I did much that isn't already well covered in my other blogs. So any of you who are curious about marquetry in general, please check out my LJ blogs. There is however one sort of new thing in the chart box …...... and that's the catch.
> 
> ...


Another nice blog Paul. Thanks.


----------



## kiefer (Feb 5, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *All Wood Button Catch*
> 
> *I have had several requests* for a blog on the construction of my Chart Box but I don't really think that I did much that isn't already well covered in my other blogs. So any of you who are curious about marquetry in general, please check out my LJ blogs. There is however one sort of new thing in the chart box …...... and that's the catch.
> 
> ...


Jack got a little workout and Paul had a little fun showing us how he made the special little catch.
I noticed the button on the case but did not pay much attention as I was more taken by the rest of the work and details like the chain below the button .
I liked the button catch and will try to make one and incorporate in one of my projects .
Sure slimmed it down from the last version much nicer.


----------



## phtaylor36 (Jun 13, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *All Wood Button Catch*
> 
> *I have had several requests* for a blog on the construction of my Chart Box but I don't really think that I did much that isn't already well covered in my other blogs. So any of you who are curious about marquetry in general, please check out my LJ blogs. There is however one sort of new thing in the chart box …...... and that's the catch.
> 
> ...


Wow, that's an amazing catch, what other secrets are you hiding in these boxes!


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *All Wood Button Catch*
> 
> *I have had several requests* for a blog on the construction of my Chart Box but I don't really think that I did much that isn't already well covered in my other blogs. So any of you who are curious about marquetry in general, please check out my LJ blogs. There is however one sort of new thing in the chart box …...... and that's the catch.
> 
> ...


Thats so cool Paul, really love it - even the sound is great - click, clonk.
There are something special about wooden locks.
Think I will have to make me a miter jack at some time, looks so cool.
I made a go on a wood lock for my Japanese tool box.








You can see more in this blog: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/30400
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *All Wood Button Catch*
> 
> *I have had several requests* for a blog on the construction of my Chart Box but I don't really think that I did much that isn't already well covered in my other blogs. So any of you who are curious about marquetry in general, please check out my LJ blogs. There is however one sort of new thing in the chart box …...... and that's the catch.
> 
> ...


It's really a nice design, Paul. Full of ingenuity and craftsmanship.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


----------



## Schwieb (Dec 3, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *All Wood Button Catch*
> 
> *I have had several requests* for a blog on the construction of my Chart Box but I don't really think that I did much that isn't already well covered in my other blogs. So any of you who are curious about marquetry in general, please check out my LJ blogs. There is however one sort of new thing in the chart box …...... and that's the catch.
> 
> ...


Very clever Paul and as always very well done!


----------



## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *All Wood Button Catch*
> 
> *I have had several requests* for a blog on the construction of my Chart Box but I don't really think that I did much that isn't already well covered in my other blogs. So any of you who are curious about marquetry in general, please check out my LJ blogs. There is however one sort of new thing in the chart box …...... and that's the catch.
> 
> ...


Paul,

I was finally able to get the photos to download here at a WIFI hotspot. This is a really good advertisement for your miter jack. Every shop should have one!

Your latch is outstanding. I suppose a person needs to be concerned to make it out of a wood which is not only strong, but does not have considerable seasonal movement. Trying to repair it could be tricky!

L/W


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *All Wood Button Catch*
> 
> *I have had several requests* for a blog on the construction of my Chart Box but I don't really think that I did much that isn't already well covered in my other blogs. So any of you who are curious about marquetry in general, please check out my LJ blogs. There is however one sort of new thing in the chart box …...... and that's the catch.
> 
> ...


*L/W,* 
The miter Jack is so useful that I hate myself for living so long before discovering it. 

You are quite right about the latch being tricky if it were to swell too much. That is why, if you look at the project post pictures, you will notice that the top fillers in the lower half of the hinge are not yet installed. These will be going back to the Pacific rainforest from the Az desert so I'm keeping my options open. As long as the hinges are unfinished, I can open it by lifting on the back. After they have been home a while I will glue them in.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *All Wood Button Catch*
> 
> *I have had several requests* for a blog on the construction of my Chart Box but I don't really think that I did much that isn't already well covered in my other blogs. So any of you who are curious about marquetry in general, please check out my LJ blogs. There is however one sort of new thing in the chart box …...... and that's the catch.
> 
> ...


Very nice design Paul, unobtrusive, but with a positive lock. I like it a lot.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

*Fresh Air Supply Without Breaking the Bank*

*Back in my boat building days* I periodically had the need to spray some very toxic paints. A fresh air supply is highly recommended for these occasions but they are very expensive for infrequent use. I found this today as I was doing a deep spring turf-out of my shop and thought it might save someone a few bucks.

*This is what I came up with* to save my lungs without the cash outlay for a compressor operated one with filters and coolers. (The filters and coolers are to remove the oil and heat that the compressor adds to the fresh air it takes in.)

*Photo #1* shows the heart of the "system", a cheap bathroom exhaust fan. In this case it is attached to a plywood disc.










*Photo #2* shows the same thing from the back with a length of 3" dryer vent hose attached.










*Photo #3* is one of the back doors of my current shop. The portlight is plexiglass and can be unscrewed and replaced by the plywood fan mount.










*The last one* shows a two filter respirator with the other end of the hose attached. The other side of the respirator is sealed off by simply putting a piece of plastic film over the base and then screwing the filter in.










*This is the system* that I used to paint Friendship with nasty linear polyurethane paint. In practice it works very well. The large bore hose is a little more trouble than a small pressurized one would be but it is very light and not much of a problem at all.

*When you turn* on the fan the respirator is filled with fresh, cool outside air with just a slight positive pressure. Excess air goes out through the exhale valve (and any minor leaks in the seal) and there is no way any ambient (poisonous) air is getting in. The air in the shop may be thick with nasty solvents and overspray but you are smelling the daises outside the door. Of course there are other concerns such as eyes and skin contact that also have to be dealt with but this one will keep your lungs safe and happy.

*The total cost*, aside from the respirator which you should already have if you spray paint, is about $30.
I've always mounted them in some exterior surface like a door panel but it would work just as well if you just took it several feet outside the door and left it on the ground.

Thanks for looking in.

Paul


----------



## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Fresh Air Supply Without Breaking the Bank*
> 
> *Back in my boat building days* I periodically had the need to spray some very toxic paints. A fresh air supply is highly recommended for these occasions but they are very expensive for infrequent use. I found this today as I was doing a deep spring turf-out of my shop and thought it might save someone a few bucks.
> 
> ...


Paul, You never cease to amaze! And your 'fixes' are always low budget and practical!


----------



## changeoffocus (Dec 21, 2013)

shipwright said:


> *Fresh Air Supply Without Breaking the Bank*
> 
> *Back in my boat building days* I periodically had the need to spray some very toxic paints. A fresh air supply is highly recommended for these occasions but they are very expensive for infrequent use. I found this today as I was doing a deep spring turf-out of my shop and thought it might save someone a few bucks.
> 
> ...


That is ingenuity in action. Impressive.


----------



## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Fresh Air Supply Without Breaking the Bank*
> 
> *Back in my boat building days* I periodically had the need to spray some very toxic paints. A fresh air supply is highly recommended for these occasions but they are very expensive for infrequent use. I found this today as I was doing a deep spring turf-out of my shop and thought it might save someone a few bucks.
> 
> ...


Looks like a great low cost life saver!!!
I can see many an LJ copying your setup.
Kudos, for passing on the knowledge.


----------



## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Fresh Air Supply Without Breaking the Bank*
> 
> *Back in my boat building days* I periodically had the need to spray some very toxic paints. A fresh air supply is highly recommended for these occasions but they are very expensive for infrequent use. I found this today as I was doing a deep spring turf-out of my shop and thought it might save someone a few bucks.
> 
> ...


gee and i thought you were coming up with a new space age bong…with this set up, that would have been quite a hit…LOL…what a great set up paul…you are a smart cookie my friend….keep your lungs clear


----------



## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Fresh Air Supply Without Breaking the Bank*
> 
> *Back in my boat building days* I periodically had the need to spray some very toxic paints. A fresh air supply is highly recommended for these occasions but they are very expensive for infrequent use. I found this today as I was doing a deep spring turf-out of my shop and thought it might save someone a few bucks.
> 
> ...


Neat ideas!!................Jim


----------



## JackBarnhill (Mar 8, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Fresh Air Supply Without Breaking the Bank*
> 
> *Back in my boat building days* I periodically had the need to spray some very toxic paints. A fresh air supply is highly recommended for these occasions but they are very expensive for infrequent use. I found this today as I was doing a deep spring turf-out of my shop and thought it might save someone a few bucks.
> 
> ...


Good idea. Kind of like a CPAP machine but without the humidifier.


----------



## sandhill (Aug 28, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Fresh Air Supply Without Breaking the Bank*
> 
> *Back in my boat building days* I periodically had the need to spray some very toxic paints. A fresh air supply is highly recommended for these occasions but they are very expensive for infrequent use. I found this today as I was doing a deep spring turf-out of my shop and thought it might save someone a few bucks.
> 
> ...


Home run on this one. Is it a problem keeping the mask on with the weight of the hose? Don't get me wrong I can live with it being my electric bill was over four hundred dollars the month I did a lot of spraying because all my heat was being sucked out side, there was no snow behind my shop even when we had 8" of the white stuff.


----------



## rance (Sep 30, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Fresh Air Supply Without Breaking the Bank*
> 
> *Back in my boat building days* I periodically had the need to spray some very toxic paints. A fresh air supply is highly recommended for these occasions but they are very expensive for infrequent use. I found this today as I was doing a deep spring turf-out of my shop and thought it might save someone a few bucks.
> 
> ...


Very clever.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Fresh Air Supply Without Breaking the Bank*
> 
> *Back in my boat building days* I periodically had the need to spray some very toxic paints. A fresh air supply is highly recommended for these occasions but they are very expensive for infrequent use. I found this today as I was doing a deep spring turf-out of my shop and thought it might save someone a few bucks.
> 
> ...


*Bob*, the hose Is really light and I usually run it over my shoulder and then attach it to my belt so I'm not towing the entire hose around with my mask.


----------



## ljhhontx (Jan 17, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Fresh Air Supply Without Breaking the Bank*
> 
> *Back in my boat building days* I periodically had the need to spray some very toxic paints. A fresh air supply is highly recommended for these occasions but they are very expensive for infrequent use. I found this today as I was doing a deep spring turf-out of my shop and thought it might save someone a few bucks.
> 
> ...


Looks good, but I have a simpler solution I use. As a sleep apnea patient I get new equipment through my insurance and keep the old. I just place the pump unit out of the general area and hook several hoses (6 ft) together with pvc pipe pieces with an old mask on the end and I have positive pressure breathing air system. If you want one I see alot of the equipment on Craigslist all the time very reasonable, just make sure you clean the mask with alcohol and soap and water before use. Instruction for setting pressures are readily available for most equipment on the internet.


----------



## Druid (Sep 30, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Fresh Air Supply Without Breaking the Bank*
> 
> *Back in my boat building days* I periodically had the need to spray some very toxic paints. A fresh air supply is highly recommended for these occasions but they are very expensive for infrequent use. I found this today as I was doing a deep spring turf-out of my shop and thought it might save someone a few bucks.
> 
> ...


Great idea Paul. This would be a lot quieter than running an oil-less compressor to supply my air.
I'll be passing this blog address along to some of my friends. Thanks.


----------



## GnarlyErik (Jul 22, 2012)

shipwright said:


> *Fresh Air Supply Without Breaking the Bank*
> 
> *Back in my boat building days* I periodically had the need to spray some very toxic paints. A fresh air supply is highly recommended for these occasions but they are very expensive for infrequent use. I found this today as I was doing a deep spring turf-out of my shop and thought it might save someone a few bucks.
> 
> ...


Paul, you are really quite the innovator. I've always thought individual boatbuilders are some of the most clever guys around to figure out how to do something without breaking the bank. You are living proof of that!

Did your house rattle during the Port Alice quake? How far do you live from there?

Cheers,
Erik


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Fresh Air Supply Without Breaking the Bank*
> 
> *Back in my boat building days* I periodically had the need to spray some very toxic paints. A fresh air supply is highly recommended for these occasions but they are very expensive for infrequent use. I found this today as I was doing a deep spring turf-out of my shop and thought it might save someone a few bucks.
> 
> ...


Thanks Eric, I always said that building wooden boats nowadays was an exercise in creativity because so many of the bits and pieces you need or want aren't available any more. I guess I've developed the habit of making things I need out of things meant for other uses.
No, we didn't feel the quake here in the south but my old shop in Port Hardy would have received a good shaking.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Fresh Air Supply Without Breaking the Bank*
> 
> *Back in my boat building days* I periodically had the need to spray some very toxic paints. A fresh air supply is highly recommended for these occasions but they are very expensive for infrequent use. I found this today as I was doing a deep spring turf-out of my shop and thought it might save someone a few bucks.
> 
> ...


Great idea Paul. Innovative and cheap enough to leave no excuses for not working safely.


----------



## tinnman65 (Jan 19, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Fresh Air Supply Without Breaking the Bank*
> 
> *Back in my boat building days* I periodically had the need to spray some very toxic paints. A fresh air supply is highly recommended for these occasions but they are very expensive for infrequent use. I found this today as I was doing a deep spring turf-out of my shop and thought it might save someone a few bucks.
> 
> ...


Wow Paul This is a great idea!


----------



## kiefer (Feb 5, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Fresh Air Supply Without Breaking the Bank*
> 
> *Back in my boat building days* I periodically had the need to spray some very toxic paints. A fresh air supply is highly recommended for these occasions but they are very expensive for infrequent use. I found this today as I was doing a deep spring turf-out of my shop and thought it might save someone a few bucks.
> 
> ...


That is some great thinking Paul and I will have to copy that next time I have a bigger spray job to do .
The problem is going to be the cold air in the winter but a simple air to air heat exchanger may work for that or maybe some bottled ocean breeze . LOL
Thanks for the tip .


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Fresh Air Supply Without Breaking the Bank*
> 
> *Back in my boat building days* I periodically had the need to spray some very toxic paints. A fresh air supply is highly recommended for these occasions but they are very expensive for infrequent use. I found this today as I was doing a deep spring turf-out of my shop and thought it might save someone a few bucks.
> 
> ...


"Thinking Out of the Box"

... at it's best…


----------



## matt1970 (Mar 28, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Fresh Air Supply Without Breaking the Bank*
> 
> *Back in my boat building days* I periodically had the need to spray some very toxic paints. A fresh air supply is highly recommended for these occasions but they are very expensive for infrequent use. I found this today as I was doing a deep spring turf-out of my shop and thought it might save someone a few bucks.
> 
> ...


very cool…and it seems pretty simple…

Paul--I assume you did all painting indoors…but if a person is doing the painting outdoors (using exact same paints) would the protection be necessary?

And what about using regular brush on paint/boat paints--what protection level would you recommend?

Matt


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Fresh Air Supply Without Breaking the Bank*
> 
> *Back in my boat building days* I periodically had the need to spray some very toxic paints. A fresh air supply is highly recommended for these occasions but they are very expensive for infrequent use. I found this today as I was doing a deep spring turf-out of my shop and thought it might save someone a few bucks.
> 
> ...


Manufacturers recommendation. All these paints are different so I wouldn't want to advise you.


----------



## phtaylor36 (Jun 13, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Fresh Air Supply Without Breaking the Bank*
> 
> *Back in my boat building days* I periodically had the need to spray some very toxic paints. A fresh air supply is highly recommended for these occasions but they are very expensive for infrequent use. I found this today as I was doing a deep spring turf-out of my shop and thought it might save someone a few bucks.
> 
> ...


Very interesting Paul!


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Fresh Air Supply Without Breaking the Bank*
> 
> *Back in my boat building days* I periodically had the need to spray some very toxic paints. A fresh air supply is highly recommended for these occasions but they are very expensive for infrequent use. I found this today as I was doing a deep spring turf-out of my shop and thought it might save someone a few bucks.
> 
> ...


Very ingenious Paul. Gr8 solution


----------



## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

shipwright said:


> *Fresh Air Supply Without Breaking the Bank*
> 
> *Back in my boat building days* I periodically had the need to spray some very toxic paints. A fresh air supply is highly recommended for these occasions but they are very expensive for infrequent use. I found this today as I was doing a deep spring turf-out of my shop and thought it might save someone a few bucks.
> 
> ...


Oh hell yeah! I's *SO *stealing this idea! *Thanks *for sharing


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

*Veneer Matching Mirrors*

*There's certainly nothing new* about using mirrors to check veneer matches but this week, when I needed to do some matching I had an idea that some of you may want to try. I hate having glass around all the hard steel tools and I hate even more the idea of suffering seven years bad luck for breaking mirrors. (At my age that could be a large percentage of what I've got left…...)

*So here's the plan.* I decided to try acrylic mirror stock and make half cuts in it to eliminate the need to tape, prop, or just hold the two mirrors while looking at the match. They are way harder to break, can be thrown in a veneer drawer, and I'm not even sure they qualify for a full seven years if you do break them. The pieces are one foot square and cost about $20 ($10 each) here in pricy old Canada. The piece of paper defines the size of one quarter of the veneer area.




























Thanks for looking in

Paul


----------



## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Veneer Matching Mirrors*
> 
> *There's certainly nothing new* about using mirrors to check veneer matches but this week, when I needed to do some matching I had an idea that some of you may want to try. I hate having glass around all the hard steel tools and I hate even more the idea of suffering seven years bad luck for breaking mirrors. (At my age that could be a large percentage of what I've got left…...)
> 
> ...


Neat idea, Paul!! I have some of that acrylic mirror around, too!!.............Jim


----------



## matt1970 (Mar 28, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Veneer Matching Mirrors*
> 
> *There's certainly nothing new* about using mirrors to check veneer matches but this week, when I needed to do some matching I had an idea that some of you may want to try. I hate having glass around all the hard steel tools and I hate even more the idea of suffering seven years bad luck for breaking mirrors. (At my age that could be a large percentage of what I've got left…...)
> 
> ...


Great idea. ..lol on the 7 yrs comment…7 yrs would be painful at any age…even those of us just getting to the hilltop…


----------



## sandhill (Aug 28, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Veneer Matching Mirrors*
> 
> *There's certainly nothing new* about using mirrors to check veneer matches but this week, when I needed to do some matching I had an idea that some of you may want to try. I hate having glass around all the hard steel tools and I hate even more the idea of suffering seven years bad luck for breaking mirrors. (At my age that could be a large percentage of what I've got left…...)
> 
> ...












Great tip Paul I will remember that. I see you found the brother to the veneer I found.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Veneer Matching Mirrors*
> 
> *There's certainly nothing new* about using mirrors to check veneer matches but this week, when I needed to do some matching I had an idea that some of you may want to try. I hate having glass around all the hard steel tools and I hate even more the idea of suffering seven years bad luck for breaking mirrors. (At my age that could be a large percentage of what I've got left…...)
> 
> ...


Great idea Paul, something new to try to find here.


----------



## phtaylor36 (Jun 13, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Veneer Matching Mirrors*
> 
> *There's certainly nothing new* about using mirrors to check veneer matches but this week, when I needed to do some matching I had an idea that some of you may want to try. I hate having glass around all the hard steel tools and I hate even more the idea of suffering seven years bad luck for breaking mirrors. (At my age that could be a large percentage of what I've got left…...)
> 
> ...


Looks like a winner Paul


----------



## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Veneer Matching Mirrors*
> 
> *There's certainly nothing new* about using mirrors to check veneer matches but this week, when I needed to do some matching I had an idea that some of you may want to try. I hate having glass around all the hard steel tools and I hate even more the idea of suffering seven years bad luck for breaking mirrors. (At my age that could be a large percentage of what I've got left…...)
> 
> ...


Thanks for the tip, Paul.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


----------



## tinnman65 (Jan 19, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Veneer Matching Mirrors*
> 
> *There's certainly nothing new* about using mirrors to check veneer matches but this week, when I needed to do some matching I had an idea that some of you may want to try. I hate having glass around all the hard steel tools and I hate even more the idea of suffering seven years bad luck for breaking mirrors. (At my age that could be a large percentage of what I've got left…...)
> 
> ...


How much bad luck do you get for putting those cuts in it? Great idea Paul.


----------



## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Veneer Matching Mirrors*
> 
> *There's certainly nothing new* about using mirrors to check veneer matches but this week, when I needed to do some matching I had an idea that some of you may want to try. I hate having glass around all the hard steel tools and I hate even more the idea of suffering seven years bad luck for breaking mirrors. (At my age that could be a large percentage of what I've got left…...)
> 
> ...


Great idea! Here's to 7 years being a very small percentage


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Veneer Matching Mirrors*
> 
> *There's certainly nothing new* about using mirrors to check veneer matches but this week, when I needed to do some matching I had an idea that some of you may want to try. I hate having glass around all the hard steel tools and I hate even more the idea of suffering seven years bad luck for breaking mirrors. (At my age that could be a large percentage of what I've got left…...)
> 
> ...


Appreciate your tips and techniques Paul


----------



## Druid (Sep 30, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Veneer Matching Mirrors*
> 
> *There's certainly nothing new* about using mirrors to check veneer matches but this week, when I needed to do some matching I had an idea that some of you may want to try. I hate having glass around all the hard steel tools and I hate even more the idea of suffering seven years bad luck for breaking mirrors. (At my age that could be a large percentage of what I've got left…...)
> 
> ...


Simply superb, and superbly simple. Great idea.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Veneer Matching Mirrors*
> 
> *There's certainly nothing new* about using mirrors to check veneer matches but this week, when I needed to do some matching I had an idea that some of you may want to try. I hate having glass around all the hard steel tools and I hate even more the idea of suffering seven years bad luck for breaking mirrors. (At my age that could be a large percentage of what I've got left…...)
> 
> ...


GR8 Idea, lovely Wood!
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## LueyD (Jun 19, 2014)

shipwright said:


> *Veneer Matching Mirrors*
> 
> *There's certainly nothing new* about using mirrors to check veneer matches but this week, when I needed to do some matching I had an idea that some of you may want to try. I hate having glass around all the hard steel tools and I hate even more the idea of suffering seven years bad luck for breaking mirrors. (At my age that could be a large percentage of what I've got left…...)
> 
> ...


Great idea love working with veneers and now I'll try it with the mirrors


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Veneer Matching Mirrors*
> 
> *There's certainly nothing new* about using mirrors to check veneer matches but this week, when I needed to do some matching I had an idea that some of you may want to try. I hate having glass around all the hard steel tools and I hate even more the idea of suffering seven years bad luck for breaking mirrors. (At my age that could be a large percentage of what I've got left…...)
> 
> ...


Super Idea Paul. I haven't seen or used acrylic mirror ,how did you cut it ?


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Veneer Matching Mirrors*
> 
> *There's certainly nothing new* about using mirrors to check veneer matches but this week, when I needed to do some matching I had an idea that some of you may want to try. I hate having glass around all the hard steel tools and I hate even more the idea of suffering seven years bad luck for breaking mirrors. (At my age that could be a large percentage of what I've got left…...)
> 
> ...


Carefully Jim. 
Actually if you are OK with some minor cosmetic chipping you can use almost any table saw or bandsaw. There are special blades and drill bits but if you are careful you can get by fine without them. When we had the Harbour Ferries with all those acrylic windows, I cut an awful lot of it and just used the blades that were in my saws at the time.
A scraper will clean up the edges beautifully.


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Veneer Matching Mirrors*
> 
> *There's certainly nothing new* about using mirrors to check veneer matches but this week, when I needed to do some matching I had an idea that some of you may want to try. I hate having glass around all the hard steel tools and I hate even more the idea of suffering seven years bad luck for breaking mirrors. (At my age that could be a large percentage of what I've got left…...)
> 
> ...


Thanks Paul


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

*Chevalight*

*As I get older* my eyes seem to require more and more light to see fine detail. That is a problem when cutting on the chevalet, especially when cutting piece by piece (classic) style where line following is critical. After trying all sorts of floor mounted lamp solutions I finally decided to put a little thought into a chevalet mounted light source that would
1) give good illumination from the left side of the blade,
2) not interfere with my left hand manipulating the packet,
3) not interfere with the packet rotating around the blade and
4) adjust to allow the largest packet my saw frame will (18").

*Here's what I* came up with this afternoon. I haven't used it a lot but I think it will be fine. it certainly adds a lot of light right where I need it. The light is a cheap incandescent spot (~$10).









































































*Hope this will* be of interest to some of you with old eyes and chevalets. 

Thanks for looking.


----------



## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Chevalight*
> 
> *As I get older* my eyes seem to require more and more light to see fine detail. That is a problem when cutting on the chevalet, especially when cutting piece by piece (classic) style where line following is critical. After trying all sorts of floor mounted lamp solutions I finally decided to put a little thought into a chevalet mounted light source that would
> 1) give good illumination from the left side of the blade,
> ...


Very ingenious, Paul. Necessity is the mother of invention and pulled this one off real well!!
Cheers, Jim


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Chevalight*
> 
> *As I get older* my eyes seem to require more and more light to see fine detail. That is a problem when cutting on the chevalet, especially when cutting piece by piece (classic) style where line following is critical. After trying all sorts of floor mounted lamp solutions I finally decided to put a little thought into a chevalet mounted light source that would
> 1) give good illumination from the left side of the blade,
> ...


Paul,

Amen


----------



## sandhill (Aug 28, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Chevalight*
> 
> *As I get older* my eyes seem to require more and more light to see fine detail. That is a problem when cutting on the chevalet, especially when cutting piece by piece (classic) style where line following is critical. After trying all sorts of floor mounted lamp solutions I finally decided to put a little thought into a chevalet mounted light source that would
> 1) give good illumination from the left side of the blade,
> ...


There you go.


----------



## longgone (May 5, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Chevalight*
> 
> *As I get older* my eyes seem to require more and more light to see fine detail. That is a problem when cutting on the chevalet, especially when cutting piece by piece (classic) style where line following is critical. After trying all sorts of floor mounted lamp solutions I finally decided to put a little thought into a chevalet mounted light source that would
> 1) give good illumination from the left side of the blade,
> ...


Paul…That is a simple but creative idea to create a solution for your lighting. NICE…


----------



## Druid (Sep 30, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Chevalight*
> 
> *As I get older* my eyes seem to require more and more light to see fine detail. That is a problem when cutting on the chevalet, especially when cutting piece by piece (classic) style where line following is critical. After trying all sorts of floor mounted lamp solutions I finally decided to put a little thought into a chevalet mounted light source that would
> 1) give good illumination from the left side of the blade,
> ...


Great idea Paul. Now I'm wondering where your Logo will go?
Should be a good addition to many Chevalets out there.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Chevalight*
> 
> *As I get older* my eyes seem to require more and more light to see fine detail. That is a problem when cutting on the chevalet, especially when cutting piece by piece (classic) style where line following is critical. After trying all sorts of floor mounted lamp solutions I finally decided to put a little thought into a chevalet mounted light source that would
> 1) give good illumination from the left side of the blade,
> ...


That looks like a very good lighting solution Paul. I have something similar, an adjustable arm light mounted on a shelf in front of my chevy, but I also have pretty good lighting in my shop. That helps, but what I really need the most is magnification. I have tried using my magnifying light on the chevy, but it can't be positioned in a way where it doesn't interfere with saw. I use it a lot on my scroll saw to cut half the line, or at least right next to the line, and it works great there.

Having to face reality and knowing that there is no way that I will ever be able to cut classic style on my chevy, I've come to the conclusion that if I want to do classic style cutting I will have to use my scroll saw for that.

The need for turning tight corners, etc. is no problem with the scroll saw. If you are cutting out the background it is easy enough to cut a big hole in the middle of the cutout and then you have easy access with your blade from any direction to cut the details. The same applies for the insert piece cutting from the outside perimeter where you can make a cut towards the middle, back the blade out, turn in the waste area and cut back towards the middle from a new position on cuts that have very sharp points and/or difficult turns. Another advantage is that a larger blade size can be used since the turns are no longer a big issue. So I think I can produce as good a result as somebody using a chevy. Of course that remains to be seen.


----------



## Sodabowski (Aug 23, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Chevalight*
> 
> *As I get older* my eyes seem to require more and more light to see fine detail. That is a problem when cutting on the chevalet, especially when cutting piece by piece (classic) style where line following is critical. After trying all sorts of floor mounted lamp solutions I finally decided to put a little thought into a chevalet mounted light source that would
> 1) give good illumination from the left side of the blade,
> ...


Picky eyes need blatant evidence


----------



## kiefer (Feb 5, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Chevalight*
> 
> *As I get older* my eyes seem to require more and more light to see fine detail. That is a problem when cutting on the chevalet, especially when cutting piece by piece (classic) style where line following is critical. After trying all sorts of floor mounted lamp solutions I finally decided to put a little thought into a chevalet mounted light source that would
> 1) give good illumination from the left side of the blade,
> ...


Great solution and I know the issue all too well and lighting in the right place sure helps .
I have made a couple lights using LED lights for my bandsaw and table saw sled for the same reason and they also work well for me .

Klaus


----------



## peteg (Sep 2, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Chevalight*
> 
> *As I get older* my eyes seem to require more and more light to see fine detail. That is a problem when cutting on the chevalet, especially when cutting piece by piece (classic) style where line following is critical. After trying all sorts of floor mounted lamp solutions I finally decided to put a little thought into a chevalet mounted light source that would
> 1) give good illumination from the left side of the blade,
> ...


Great answer to your problem of lighting Paul, you're not on your own with the eyesight thing my friend 
cheers
Pete


----------



## rance (Sep 30, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Chevalight*
> 
> *As I get older* my eyes seem to require more and more light to see fine detail. That is a problem when cutting on the chevalet, especially when cutting piece by piece (classic) style where line following is critical. After trying all sorts of floor mounted lamp solutions I finally decided to put a little thought into a chevalet mounted light source that would
> 1) give good illumination from the left side of the blade,
> ...


That looks a little Frank Lloyd Wright-ish. I'm sure you'll be putting a finish on it soon. Nice solution Paul.


----------



## phtaylor36 (Jun 13, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Chevalight*
> 
> *As I get older* my eyes seem to require more and more light to see fine detail. That is a problem when cutting on the chevalet, especially when cutting piece by piece (classic) style where line following is critical. After trying all sorts of floor mounted lamp solutions I finally decided to put a little thought into a chevalet mounted light source that would
> 1) give good illumination from the left side of the blade,
> ...


Nice work Paul


----------



## Patricelejeune (Feb 21, 2013)

shipwright said:


> *Chevalight*
> 
> *As I get older* my eyes seem to require more and more light to see fine detail. That is a problem when cutting on the chevalet, especially when cutting piece by piece (classic) style where line following is critical. After trying all sorts of floor mounted lamp solutions I finally decided to put a little thought into a chevalet mounted light source that would
> 1) give good illumination from the left side of the blade,
> ...


Good system, I understand the feeling. I am slowly feeling it more difficult to see clear details and light is not the only problem, closer to 40 ( I was 20 only yesterday, what happened!) now I wish I could still look and see closer. Do you have found the best optivisor yet?


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Chevalight*
> 
> *As I get older* my eyes seem to require more and more light to see fine detail. That is a problem when cutting on the chevalet, especially when cutting piece by piece (classic) style where line following is critical. After trying all sorts of floor mounted lamp solutions I finally decided to put a little thought into a chevalet mounted light source that would
> 1) give good illumination from the left side of the blade,
> ...


I don't like optivisors much. I've been using strong reading glasses, one grade stronger than I use for reading.
I have used this for a few days now and aside from some minor jiggling as I saw, it works really well.


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Chevalight*
> 
> *As I get older* my eyes seem to require more and more light to see fine detail. That is a problem when cutting on the chevalet, especially when cutting piece by piece (classic) style where line following is critical. After trying all sorts of floor mounted lamp solutions I finally decided to put a little thought into a chevalet mounted light source that would
> 1) give good illumination from the left side of the blade,
> ...


Ahh, let there be light. I like your logo on the knob that holds it in position.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

*Table Saw Sled Mod for ShopSmith*

*I just posted* my new table saw sled, inspired by Kiefer's versatile version. There is a problem, however, with using such a sled on a ShopSmith and that is simply that because on a SS the table tilts, the line on which the saw blade intersects with the plane of the table top moves as you change the angle.










*My solution was* to make a 45 degree ramp to fit my new sled. I have made these before as stand alone jigs with a miter slot fitting strip on the bottom but this one is part of the new sled and fits right in, in either of two orientations.

*It could be made* adjustable quite easily and if I ever have call to accurately crosscut angles other than 45 degrees, I may do that but for now a really accurate 45 is all I need.




























*As these pictures* were taken before the sled was finished, here's the finished version. Lack of organization seems to have got in the way of a finished shot with the jig. 










*Here's an earlier* version on my trusty old 10 ER back home on Vancouver Island.



















*Thanks* for looking in,

Paul


----------



## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Table Saw Sled Mod for ShopSmith*
> 
> *I just posted* my new table saw sled, inspired by Kiefer's versatile version. There is a problem, however, with using such a sled on a ShopSmith and that is simply that because on a SS the table tilts, the line on which the saw blade intersects with the plane of the table top moves as you change the angle.
> 
> ...


Ya got a good thinker on ya Paul.

What a clever solution. I like it.
Steve


----------



## Sodabowski (Aug 23, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Table Saw Sled Mod for ShopSmith*
> 
> *I just posted* my new table saw sled, inspired by Kiefer's versatile version. There is a problem, however, with using such a sled on a ShopSmith and that is simply that because on a SS the table tilts, the line on which the saw blade intersects with the plane of the table top moves as you change the angle.
> 
> ...


And it wouldn't be a finished version without marquetry


----------



## pattyschenewerk (Nov 2, 2014)

shipwright said:


> *Table Saw Sled Mod for ShopSmith*
> 
> *I just posted* my new table saw sled, inspired by Kiefer's versatile version. There is a problem, however, with using such a sled on a ShopSmith and that is simply that because on a SS the table tilts, the line on which the saw blade intersects with the plane of the table top moves as you change the angle.
> 
> ...


I like it !


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Table Saw Sled Mod for ShopSmith*
> 
> *I just posted* my new table saw sled, inspired by Kiefer's versatile version. There is a problem, however, with using such a sled on a ShopSmith and that is simply that because on a SS the table tilts, the line on which the saw blade intersects with the plane of the table top moves as you change the angle.
> 
> ...


Interesting..


----------



## jmartel (Jul 6, 2012)

shipwright said:


> *Table Saw Sled Mod for ShopSmith*
> 
> *I just posted* my new table saw sled, inspired by Kiefer's versatile version. There is a problem, however, with using such a sled on a ShopSmith and that is simply that because on a SS the table tilts, the line on which the saw blade intersects with the plane of the table top moves as you change the angle.
> 
> ...


So where's the full marquetry scene on the face of the ramp?


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Table Saw Sled Mod for ShopSmith*
> 
> *I just posted* my new table saw sled, inspired by Kiefer's versatile version. There is a problem, however, with using such a sled on a ShopSmith and that is simply that because on a SS the table tilts, the line on which the saw blade intersects with the plane of the table top moves as you change the angle.
> 
> ...


Is that a challenge Jeff?????
Hmmmmm …....


----------



## Boxguy (Mar 11, 2012)

shipwright said:


> *Table Saw Sled Mod for ShopSmith*
> 
> *I just posted* my new table saw sled, inspired by Kiefer's versatile version. There is a problem, however, with using such a sled on a ShopSmith and that is simply that because on a SS the table tilts, the line on which the saw blade intersects with the plane of the table top moves as you change the angle.
> 
> ...


*Paul*, Taking time to make your jigs beautiful might seem a waste of time to some, but not to me. A beautiful a jig makes using it a joy and really adds pleasure to the time you spend in the shop. It gives your work and the process a sense of pride and craftsmanship.










You might consider a 45 degree jig based on this design. I find that the upside-down straight edge clamp keeps your hands safe and the vertical stop makes repeated cuts easy. Cranking the blade, or in your case table, around every time you want to cut a 45 gets to be a chore.

More about building and use here. Thanks for all you have shared with us through the years.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Table Saw Sled Mod for ShopSmith*
> 
> *I just posted* my new table saw sled, inspired by Kiefer's versatile version. There is a problem, however, with using such a sled on a ShopSmith and that is simply that because on a SS the table tilts, the line on which the saw blade intersects with the plane of the table top moves as you change the angle.
> 
> ...


Looks like an excellent solution Paul, but I am glad my saw blade tilts.


----------



## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Table Saw Sled Mod for ShopSmith*
> 
> *I just posted* my new table saw sled, inspired by Kiefer's versatile version. There is a problem, however, with using such a sled on a ShopSmith and that is simply that because on a SS the table tilts, the line on which the saw blade intersects with the plane of the table top moves as you change the angle.
> 
> ...


Well thought out solution!!


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Table Saw Sled Mod for ShopSmith*
> 
> *I just posted* my new table saw sled, inspired by Kiefer's versatile version. There is a problem, however, with using such a sled on a ShopSmith and that is simply that because on a SS the table tilts, the line on which the saw blade intersects with the plane of the table top moves as you change the angle.
> 
> ...


A mighty fine sled Paul.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

*Easy DIY Safety Straightedge*

*Today I had* a little knife and straightedge work to do and I know how (painfully) easy it is to slice a tiny piece of finger off while concentrating on the veneer. I hate getting blood on my veneer …. so I decided to take the time and make something that would keep my skin attached and my veneer clean. Turns out it only took about ten minutes and it works really well.
I had a bit of aluminium angle around and with a bit of oak scrap and a couple of screws it was done.

I'm not posting this because it is any sort of great discovery but rather just to point out how quickly and easily you can up your safety level from the old steel ruler. 














































Thanks for looking in

Paul


----------



## FatherHooligan (Mar 27, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Easy DIY Safety Straightedge*
> 
> *Today I had* a little knife and straightedge work to do and I know how (painfully) easy it is to slice a tiny piece of finger off while concentrating on the veneer. I hate getting blood on my veneer …. so I decided to take the time and make something that would keep my skin attached and my veneer clean. Turns out it only took about ten minutes and it works really well.
> I had a bit of aluminium angle around and with a bit of oak scrap and a couple of screws it was done.
> ...


Looks like an effective and safe solution.


----------



## exelectrician (Oct 3, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Easy DIY Safety Straightedge*
> 
> *Today I had* a little knife and straightedge work to do and I know how (painfully) easy it is to slice a tiny piece of finger off while concentrating on the veneer. I hate getting blood on my veneer …. so I decided to take the time and make something that would keep my skin attached and my veneer clean. Turns out it only took about ten minutes and it works really well.
> I had a bit of aluminium angle around and with a bit of oak scrap and a couple of screws it was done.
> ...


Simple and safe - Always a good combination.


----------



## Dutchy (Jun 18, 2012)

shipwright said:


> *Easy DIY Safety Straightedge*
> 
> *Today I had* a little knife and straightedge work to do and I know how (painfully) easy it is to slice a tiny piece of finger off while concentrating on the veneer. I hate getting blood on my veneer …. so I decided to take the time and make something that would keep my skin attached and my veneer clean. Turns out it only took about ten minutes and it works really well.
> I had a bit of aluminium angle around and with a bit of oak scrap and a couple of screws it was done.
> ...


Seems like a good solution but if it isn,t enough you can try:


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

shipwright said:


> *Easy DIY Safety Straightedge*
> 
> *Today I had* a little knife and straightedge work to do and I know how (painfully) easy it is to slice a tiny piece of finger off while concentrating on the veneer. I hate getting blood on my veneer …. so I decided to take the time and make something that would keep my skin attached and my veneer clean. Turns out it only took about ten minutes and it works really well.
> I had a bit of aluminium angle around and with a bit of oak scrap and a couple of screws it was done.
> ...


I made something similar once a way back. Great little idea. Never lost a finger before I had it but you can sure see the scars.


----------



## Woodbridge (Oct 12, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Easy DIY Safety Straightedge*
> 
> *Today I had* a little knife and straightedge work to do and I know how (painfully) easy it is to slice a tiny piece of finger off while concentrating on the veneer. I hate getting blood on my veneer …. so I decided to take the time and make something that would keep my skin attached and my veneer clean. Turns out it only took about ten minutes and it works really well.
> I had a bit of aluminium angle around and with a bit of oak scrap and a couple of screws it was done.
> ...


Thanks Paul. That is a great idea. I thick I have a piece of aluminium angle in my shop. Looks like I have a little project for today.


----------



## JoeMcGlynn (Dec 16, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Easy DIY Safety Straightedge*
> 
> *Today I had* a little knife and straightedge work to do and I know how (painfully) easy it is to slice a tiny piece of finger off while concentrating on the veneer. I hate getting blood on my veneer …. so I decided to take the time and make something that would keep my skin attached and my veneer clean. Turns out it only took about ten minutes and it works really well.
> I had a bit of aluminium angle around and with a bit of oak scrap and a couple of screws it was done.
> ...


that reminds me of the time I had my left thumb sticking out while using the shooting board. Thanks for sharing this.


----------



## kiefer (Feb 5, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Easy DIY Safety Straightedge*
> 
> *Today I had* a little knife and straightedge work to do and I know how (painfully) easy it is to slice a tiny piece of finger off while concentrating on the veneer. I hate getting blood on my veneer …. so I decided to take the time and make something that would keep my skin attached and my veneer clean. Turns out it only took about ten minutes and it works really well.
> I had a bit of aluminium angle around and with a bit of oak scrap and a couple of screws it was done.
> ...


*Blood sweat and tears is part of the game but this changes the game .LOL*
Nice one Paul and I will copy that today it's such a good idea .

Klaus


----------



## Detoro (Jan 17, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Easy DIY Safety Straightedge*
> 
> *Today I had* a little knife and straightedge work to do and I know how (painfully) easy it is to slice a tiny piece of finger off while concentrating on the veneer. I hate getting blood on my veneer …. so I decided to take the time and make something that would keep my skin attached and my veneer clean. Turns out it only took about ten minutes and it works really well.
> I had a bit of aluminium angle around and with a bit of oak scrap and a couple of screws it was done.
> ...


Got a patent yet??!!! You're gonna make millions!!!

Great idea. Will be making on for myself.

Roman


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Easy DIY Safety Straightedge*
> 
> *Today I had* a little knife and straightedge work to do and I know how (painfully) easy it is to slice a tiny piece of finger off while concentrating on the veneer. I hate getting blood on my veneer …. so I decided to take the time and make something that would keep my skin attached and my veneer clean. Turns out it only took about ten minutes and it works really well.
> I had a bit of aluminium angle around and with a bit of oak scrap and a couple of screws it was done.
> ...


I think this is a grrrrr8 invention Paul.


----------



## PERLarryC (Feb 14, 2014)

shipwright said:


> *Easy DIY Safety Straightedge*
> 
> *Today I had* a little knife and straightedge work to do and I know how (painfully) easy it is to slice a tiny piece of finger off while concentrating on the veneer. I hate getting blood on my veneer …. so I decided to take the time and make something that would keep my skin attached and my veneer clean. Turns out it only took about ten minutes and it works really well.
> I had a bit of aluminium angle around and with a bit of oak scrap and a couple of screws it was done.
> ...


Thanks for a wonderful idea.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Easy DIY Safety Straightedge*
> 
> *Today I had* a little knife and straightedge work to do and I know how (painfully) easy it is to slice a tiny piece of finger off while concentrating on the veneer. I hate getting blood on my veneer …. so I decided to take the time and make something that would keep my skin attached and my veneer clean. Turns out it only took about ten minutes and it works really well.
> I had a bit of aluminium angle around and with a bit of oak scrap and a couple of screws it was done.
> ...


Good safety idea Paul. Believe it or not I have been planning to do the same, but haven't yet. Your post is a good reminder. It is very easy to cut your fingers with just a ruler. I haven't done it yet, but I know I eventually will if I don't do something about it.


----------



## Druid (Sep 30, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Easy DIY Safety Straightedge*
> 
> *Today I had* a little knife and straightedge work to do and I know how (painfully) easy it is to slice a tiny piece of finger off while concentrating on the veneer. I hate getting blood on my veneer …. so I decided to take the time and make something that would keep my skin attached and my veneer clean. Turns out it only took about ten minutes and it works really well.
> I had a bit of aluminium angle around and with a bit of oak scrap and a couple of screws it was done.
> ...


Simply great!


----------



## kiefer (Feb 5, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Easy DIY Safety Straightedge*
> 
> *Today I had* a little knife and straightedge work to do and I know how (painfully) easy it is to slice a tiny piece of finger off while concentrating on the veneer. I hate getting blood on my veneer …. so I decided to take the time and make something that would keep my skin attached and my veneer clean. Turns out it only took about ten minutes and it works really well.
> I had a bit of aluminium angle around and with a bit of oak scrap and a couple of screws it was done.
> ...


Made one today 


















Klaus


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Easy DIY Safety Straightedge*
> 
> *Today I had* a little knife and straightedge work to do and I know how (painfully) easy it is to slice a tiny piece of finger off while concentrating on the veneer. I hate getting blood on my veneer …. so I decided to take the time and make something that would keep my skin attached and my veneer clean. Turns out it only took about ten minutes and it works really well.
> I had a bit of aluminium angle around and with a bit of oak scrap and a couple of screws it was done.
> ...


Very nice Klaus! I Like the lacewood, very elegant.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Easy DIY Safety Straightedge*
> 
> *Today I had* a little knife and straightedge work to do and I know how (painfully) easy it is to slice a tiny piece of finger off while concentrating on the veneer. I hate getting blood on my veneer …. so I decided to take the time and make something that would keep my skin attached and my veneer clean. Turns out it only took about ten minutes and it works really well.
> I had a bit of aluminium angle around and with a bit of oak scrap and a couple of screws it was done.
> ...


Nice to see you take care of those talented hands. ;-)
I have cut fingertips more often than I want to remember, working as an architect building house models.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

shipwright said:


> *Easy DIY Safety Straightedge*
> 
> *Today I had* a little knife and straightedge work to do and I know how (painfully) easy it is to slice a tiny piece of finger off while concentrating on the veneer. I hate getting blood on my veneer …. so I decided to take the time and make something that would keep my skin attached and my veneer clean. Turns out it only took about ten minutes and it works really well.
> I had a bit of aluminium angle around and with a bit of oak scrap and a couple of screws it was done.
> ...


Good idea. Might make several in different lengths. And it would be easy to put a metal rule on it with some double-sided carpet tape.


----------



## peteg (Sep 2, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Easy DIY Safety Straightedge*
> 
> *Today I had* a little knife and straightedge work to do and I know how (painfully) easy it is to slice a tiny piece of finger off while concentrating on the veneer. I hate getting blood on my veneer …. so I decided to take the time and make something that would keep my skin attached and my veneer clean. Turns out it only took about ten minutes and it works really well.
> I had a bit of aluminium angle around and with a bit of oak scrap and a couple of screws it was done.
> ...


Guess you're not on Elastoplast's gift list anymore Paul 
Have a great '15
cheers
Pete

Still great summer weather down here Mate, sun every day high 20's *


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

*Modular Veneer Press Build*

*Just a few more* pictures and explanations than the project post had room for. The concept is simple and can be adapted in many ways but here is what I did.

*First off* I selected knot free parts of 8' construction 2X4's and ripped them into 1X4's. Then I laminated them up in half laps so that the result looks like a box joint but is easier to get perfect fit and glue ups. I used PVA glue because I had it around and threw a few staples in to keep things aligned while I quickly laid up the frames.










*Just for a little* added strength I pinned each corner with 1/2" dowels when the clamps came off.










*Next I bored* holes for the screws…....










*.... and expanded the holes* on the inside with a trim router to fit the "nuts" and provide a shoulder for them to work against. This is the one of the old frames but the same was done with the new ones.










*The shop made screws* are epoxied in with cheap quick set epoxy. All it does is keep them from falling out. The force is taken on the wood shoulder inside the holes.










*Once you have* the frames you can make the platen and screw it to the bottom cross members. This is just to keep the pieces together and again has no bearing on the strength of the press. You can use more or fewer frames and can also add a few C clamps around the platens at the outer ends if you like.



















*The conversion* of cheap C clamps to veneer press screws is detailed here.

*This is a really easy build* and makes for a very versatile press. You can use the whole area to glue up a large project or have several smaller items even different thicknesses, pressing at the same time. I use it all the time for flattening veneer, pressing veneer after paper backing, glue ups on assembly boards, actual pressing of marquetry with or without hot cauls, and generally just to keep things flat while they await assembly into a project.
In short, since I've had these presses I have come to depend on them an cannot imagine what I would do without them.

Thanks for looking in.

Paul


----------



## Woodbridge (Oct 12, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Modular Veneer Press Build*
> 
> *Just a few more* pictures and explanations than the project post had room for. The concept is simple and can be adapted in many ways but here is what I did.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the additional info Paul. I noticed in one picture threaded rod at either end of the (old) frame. I'm assuming the new ones with the thicker sides and half laps don't need the additional support.


----------



## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Modular Veneer Press Build*
> 
> *Just a few more* pictures and explanations than the project post had room for. The concept is simple and can be adapted in many ways but here is what I did.
> 
> ...


thanks paul for the blog, i hope your well and that things are thumbs up with your golf game and such…i know you must notice the play on words, just making sure you have not slipped…lol….


----------



## BSzydlo (Jan 16, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Modular Veneer Press Build*
> 
> *Just a few more* pictures and explanations than the project post had room for. The concept is simple and can be adapted in many ways but here is what I did.
> 
> ...


Hi Paul, thanks for sharing your design. I might have missed it in a previous post but can you share the dimensions of your frame?


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Modular Veneer Press Build*
> 
> *Just a few more* pictures and explanations than the project post had room for. The concept is simple and can be adapted in many ways but here is what I did.
> 
> ...


*Bill*, the frames are 20 1/4" wide inside for a 20" wide platen. I'm not in the shop right now but as I remember the height is about 14" or 16" inside. None of the measurements are critical. You can make whatever size you like. The height should be enough to accommodate lots of options. Not high enough will limit you. Too high can be easily filled with blocking. I really like my 4X4 cross blocks as they really even out the force.


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Modular Veneer Press Build*
> 
> *Just a few more* pictures and explanations than the project post had room for. The concept is simple and can be adapted in many ways but here is what I did.
> 
> ...


This is one heck of a press


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

*Locating Critical Insert Nuts*

*This is pretty simple* but I hadn't thought of it before. Maybe someone else can use this little tip. When I was making the adjustable jaws for my school chevys, I needed to locate some insert nuts really accurately so the jaws wouldn't bind. The slot in the jaw is 1/4" but the hole for the insert nut needs to be 3/8".

*I'm sure there are* lots of good ways to do this but here's what I did. It was really easy and absolutely accurate.

*First I marked* with a brad point 1/4" bit.










*Then I drilled the hole* with a 3/8" Forstner bit. The brad hole was a perfect locator.










*The fit is perfect* and everything slides smoothly.




























*This is so simple* that I almost didn't post it but then the series is called "*Simple* Jigs and Techniques" and besides I had not thought of it before. ......... maybe you didn't either… 

Thanks for looking in.

Paul


----------



## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Locating Critical Insert Nuts*
> 
> *This is pretty simple* but I hadn't thought of it before. Maybe someone else can use this little tip. When I was making the adjustable jaws for my school chevys, I needed to locate some insert nuts really accurately so the jaws wouldn't bind. The slot in the jaw is 1/4" but the hole for the insert nut needs to be 3/8".
> 
> ...


Nice one.
The center point in the forstner bit here is the key. And that that bit will not 'walk' around. Neat.

Steve


----------



## Handtooler (Jul 24, 2012)

shipwright said:


> *Locating Critical Insert Nuts*
> 
> *This is pretty simple* but I hadn't thought of it before. Maybe someone else can use this little tip. When I was making the adjustable jaws for my school chevys, I needed to locate some insert nuts really accurately so the jaws wouldn't bind. The slot in the jaw is 1/4" but the hole for the insert nut needs to be 3/8".
> 
> ...


Maybe easy, but so very useful! Thanks for rethinking and posting this'en. I'll find use for it very soon/


----------



## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Locating Critical Insert Nuts*
> 
> *This is pretty simple* but I hadn't thought of it before. Maybe someone else can use this little tip. When I was making the adjustable jaws for my school chevys, I needed to locate some insert nuts really accurately so the jaws wouldn't bind. The slot in the jaw is 1/4" but the hole for the insert nut needs to be 3/8".
> 
> ...


Neat idea Paul. That puts the center spot on where you need it.

When I want to transfer a hole exactly to right location ( in metal or wood) like for a pattern of flat head screws. I drill through both pieces with the tap drill first, then I open up the top holes with a clearance drill and do the countersinking. Makes for a perfect location of the pattern. It takes a little longer but I have leaned through time that is pretty foolproof where spotting with a punch center can wander a bit in the grain of wood when you go to drill it.

Cheers, Jim


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Locating Critical Insert Nuts*
> 
> *This is pretty simple* but I hadn't thought of it before. Maybe someone else can use this little tip. When I was making the adjustable jaws for my school chevys, I needed to locate some insert nuts really accurately so the jaws wouldn't bind. The slot in the jaw is 1/4" but the hole for the insert nut needs to be 3/8".
> 
> ...


COOL tip…

Thank you!


----------



## Woodbridge (Oct 12, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Locating Critical Insert Nuts*
> 
> *This is pretty simple* but I hadn't thought of it before. Maybe someone else can use this little tip. When I was making the adjustable jaws for my school chevys, I needed to locate some insert nuts really accurately so the jaws wouldn't bind. The slot in the jaw is 1/4" but the hole for the insert nut needs to be 3/8".
> 
> ...


great idea Paul. A set of transfer punches also comes in handy for this type of task.


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Locating Critical Insert Nuts*
> 
> *This is pretty simple* but I hadn't thought of it before. Maybe someone else can use this little tip. When I was making the adjustable jaws for my school chevys, I needed to locate some insert nuts really accurately so the jaws wouldn't bind. The slot in the jaw is 1/4" but the hole for the insert nut needs to be 3/8".
> 
> ...


Thanks!

Hope you got spme water time!


----------



## Sodabowski (Aug 23, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Locating Critical Insert Nuts*
> 
> *This is pretty simple* but I hadn't thought of it before. Maybe someone else can use this little tip. When I was making the adjustable jaws for my school chevys, I needed to locate some insert nuts really accurately so the jaws wouldn't bind. The slot in the jaw is 1/4" but the hole for the insert nut needs to be 3/8".
> 
> ...


Bullseye, buddy.


----------



## MLWilson (Jun 28, 2015)

shipwright said:


> *Locating Critical Insert Nuts*
> 
> *This is pretty simple* but I hadn't thought of it before. Maybe someone else can use this little tip. When I was making the adjustable jaws for my school chevys, I needed to locate some insert nuts really accurately so the jaws wouldn't bind. The slot in the jaw is 1/4" but the hole for the insert nut needs to be 3/8".
> 
> ...


Center finders for hinges come in lots of sizes. But, for something as big as 1/4", I think you're cooking with gas. That means I concur that it's a swell idea.


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Locating Critical Insert Nuts*
> 
> *This is pretty simple* but I hadn't thought of it before. Maybe someone else can use this little tip. When I was making the adjustable jaws for my school chevys, I needed to locate some insert nuts really accurately so the jaws wouldn't bind. The slot in the jaw is 1/4" but the hole for the insert nut needs to be 3/8".
> 
> ...


This is a gr8 tip Paul.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Locating Critical Insert Nuts*
> 
> *This is pretty simple* but I hadn't thought of it before. Maybe someone else can use this little tip. When I was making the adjustable jaws for my school chevys, I needed to locate some insert nuts really accurately so the jaws wouldn't bind. The slot in the jaw is 1/4" but the hole for the insert nut needs to be 3/8".
> 
> ...


Always good to have a useful tip like this one floating around in the grey matter. Thanks Paul.


----------



## kiefer (Feb 5, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Locating Critical Insert Nuts*
> 
> *This is pretty simple* but I hadn't thought of it before. Maybe someone else can use this little tip. When I was making the adjustable jaws for my school chevys, I needed to locate some insert nuts really accurately so the jaws wouldn't bind. The slot in the jaw is 1/4" but the hole for the insert nut needs to be 3/8".
> 
> ...


Good way to get precise lineup but why not use a 1/4" forstner bit for marking then the tip would be almost identical .

Klaus


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Locating Critical Insert Nuts*
> 
> *This is pretty simple* but I hadn't thought of it before. Maybe someone else can use this little tip. When I was making the adjustable jaws for my school chevys, I needed to locate some insert nuts really accurately so the jaws wouldn't bind. The slot in the jaw is 1/4" but the hole for the insert nut needs to be 3/8".
> 
> ...


Good point, because I had picked up the brad point first I guess.


----------



## BritBoxmaker (Feb 1, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Locating Critical Insert Nuts*
> 
> *This is pretty simple* but I hadn't thought of it before. Maybe someone else can use this little tip. When I was making the adjustable jaws for my school chevys, I needed to locate some insert nuts really accurately so the jaws wouldn't bind. The slot in the jaw is 1/4" but the hole for the insert nut needs to be 3/8".
> 
> ...


Thanks for posting this, Paul.

I've had trouble locating my nuts in the past but it shouldn't be a problem anymore.


----------



## Sigung (Nov 20, 2013)

shipwright said:


> *Locating Critical Insert Nuts*
> 
> *This is pretty simple* but I hadn't thought of it before. Maybe someone else can use this little tip. When I was making the adjustable jaws for my school chevys, I needed to locate some insert nuts really accurately so the jaws wouldn't bind. The slot in the jaw is 1/4" but the hole for the insert nut needs to be 3/8".
> 
> ...





> Thanks for posting this, Paul.
> 
> I ve had trouble locating my nuts in the past but it shouldn t be a problem anymore.
> 
> - BritBoxmaker




Seriously Paul, if you can keep getting comments like this with your posts, I will read all of them ten times. Really great info, thank you!


----------



## madts (Dec 30, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Locating Critical Insert Nuts*
> 
> *This is pretty simple* but I hadn't thought of it before. Maybe someone else can use this little tip. When I was making the adjustable jaws for my school chevys, I needed to locate some insert nuts really accurately so the jaws wouldn't bind. The slot in the jaw is 1/4" but the hole for the insert nut needs to be 3/8".
> 
> ...


I think British humour at its best.

Madts.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Locating Critical Insert Nuts*
> 
> *This is pretty simple* but I hadn't thought of it before. Maybe someone else can use this little tip. When I was making the adjustable jaws for my school chevys, I needed to locate some insert nuts really accurately so the jaws wouldn't bind. The slot in the jaw is 1/4" but the hole for the insert nut needs to be 3/8".
> 
> ...


Glad I could help Martyn. 
Some folks keep them in their drawers.


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

shipwright said:


> *Locating Critical Insert Nuts*
> 
> *This is pretty simple* but I hadn't thought of it before. Maybe someone else can use this little tip. When I was making the adjustable jaws for my school chevys, I needed to locate some insert nuts really accurately so the jaws wouldn't bind. The slot in the jaw is 1/4" but the hole for the insert nut needs to be 3/8".
> 
> ...


Necessity is the mother of invention I have heard.

But we don't need to reinvent the wheel when some one shows us one and how it will benefit us.
Great how To


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

*Making Fine Dust for Marquetry Mastic*

*This is a little video*I did last summer after having a "Doh!" moment. Very fine sanding dust is difficult to generate and contain in a clean, uncontaminated condition. The go to method has been hand sanding with ~220 grit paper.
This is just a little trick that came to me while I was sanding a spindle one day. I thought it was worth sharing.




  











Thanks for lookng in.

Paul


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Making Fine Dust for Marquetry Mastic*
> 
> *This is a little video*I did last summer after having a "Doh!" moment. Very fine sanding dust is difficult to generate and contain in a clean, uncontaminated condition. The go to method has been hand sanding with ~220 grit paper.
> This is just a little trick that came to me while I was sanding a spindle one day. I thought it was worth sharing.
> ...


Good idea Paul,thanks for sharing.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

shipwright said:


> *Making Fine Dust for Marquetry Mastic*
> 
> *This is a little video*I did last summer after having a "Doh!" moment. Very fine sanding dust is difficult to generate and contain in a clean, uncontaminated condition. The go to method has been hand sanding with ~220 grit paper.
> This is just a little trick that came to me while I was sanding a spindle one day. I thought it was worth sharing.
> ...


Paul,

Makes perfect sense doesn't it…
... it's nice when a plan comes together with the help of the Light Bulb Finally going ON… isn't it? 

Very good!

Thank you!


----------



## Sigung (Nov 20, 2013)

shipwright said:


> *Making Fine Dust for Marquetry Mastic*
> 
> *This is a little video*I did last summer after having a "Doh!" moment. Very fine sanding dust is difficult to generate and contain in a clean, uncontaminated condition. The go to method has been hand sanding with ~220 grit paper.
> This is just a little trick that came to me while I was sanding a spindle one day. I thought it was worth sharing.
> ...


Good one Paul, I never thought of that, I've been collecting dust from my palm sander.


----------



## MLWilson (Jun 28, 2015)

shipwright said:


> *Making Fine Dust for Marquetry Mastic*
> 
> *This is a little video*I did last summer after having a "Doh!" moment. Very fine sanding dust is difficult to generate and contain in a clean, uncontaminated condition. The go to method has been hand sanding with ~220 grit paper.
> This is just a little trick that came to me while I was sanding a spindle one day. I thought it was worth sharing.
> ...


How's about going to your new DC, and linking in a dedicated "clean" container? Or, just clamping the wand of a handheld vacuum to the lathe, positioned to suck that dust into a clean bag, and shaking it out into a Ziploc bag?

*Are you really making suggestions to the Great One?*

It might not have occurred to him.


----------



## Sodabowski (Aug 23, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Making Fine Dust for Marquetry Mastic*
> 
> *This is a little video*I did last summer after having a "Doh!" moment. Very fine sanding dust is difficult to generate and contain in a clean, uncontaminated condition. The go to method has been hand sanding with ~220 grit paper.
> This is just a little trick that came to me while I was sanding a spindle one day. I thought it was worth sharing.
> ...


Been doing that for a while with the green-spalted wood for the analytical studies, it seems so obvious…


----------



## RonGoldberg (Dec 11, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Making Fine Dust for Marquetry Mastic*
> 
> *This is a little video*I did last summer after having a "Doh!" moment. Very fine sanding dust is difficult to generate and contain in a clean, uncontaminated condition. The go to method has been hand sanding with ~220 grit paper.
> This is just a little trick that came to me while I was sanding a spindle one day. I thought it was worth sharing.
> ...


Paul, could you send another video or pictures of the next step. How you do fill in the marketry? Do you just put a bead of glue in the track and then sprinkle in the saw dust? I would think the powder that does not touch the glue would keep falling away. You can also just send a couple of photos to me at [email protected]

Many thanks.


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Making Fine Dust for Marquetry Mastic*
> 
> *This is a little video*I did last summer after having a "Doh!" moment. Very fine sanding dust is difficult to generate and contain in a clean, uncontaminated condition. The go to method has been hand sanding with ~220 grit paper.
> This is just a little trick that came to me while I was sanding a spindle one day. I thought it was worth sharing.
> ...


An Oh Dah ! moment….Thanks! When I first attempted to make a filler it had a lot of big fiber. Now I have to take the dust off my lathe to make some fine sawdust. I might try my drill press?


----------



## phtaylor36 (Jun 13, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Making Fine Dust for Marquetry Mastic*
> 
> *This is a little video*I did last summer after having a "Doh!" moment. Very fine sanding dust is difficult to generate and contain in a clean, uncontaminated condition. The go to method has been hand sanding with ~220 grit paper.
> This is just a little trick that came to me while I was sanding a spindle one day. I thought it was worth sharing.
> ...


Brilliant Paul, great idea.


----------



## DonSol (Dec 31, 2014)

shipwright said:


> *Making Fine Dust for Marquetry Mastic*
> 
> *This is a little video*I did last summer after having a "Doh!" moment. Very fine sanding dust is difficult to generate and contain in a clean, uncontaminated condition. The go to method has been hand sanding with ~220 grit paper.
> This is just a little trick that came to me while I was sanding a spindle one day. I thought it was worth sharing.
> ...


Good idea, thanks.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Making Fine Dust for Marquetry Mastic*
> 
> *This is a little video*I did last summer after having a "Doh!" moment. Very fine sanding dust is difficult to generate and contain in a clean, uncontaminated condition. The go to method has been hand sanding with ~220 grit paper.
> This is just a little trick that came to me while I was sanding a spindle one day. I thought it was worth sharing.
> ...


Thanks all, it isn't anything brilliant but I thought if it had escaped me this long …..

*Ron*, making and using mastic in marquetry is a somewhat complex process, more than a few photos. In brief it involves mixing thinned hot hide glue with fine extremely clean and uniform dust of the appropriate colour and pressing it into the voids in an assembled piece of marquetry. This is done from the back side prior to mounting the piece on its substrate. There are lots of subtleties in the temperature, consistency, and such.


----------



## Schwieb (Dec 3, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Making Fine Dust for Marquetry Mastic*
> 
> *This is a little video*I did last summer after having a "Doh!" moment. Very fine sanding dust is difficult to generate and contain in a clean, uncontaminated condition. The go to method has been hand sanding with ~220 grit paper.
> This is just a little trick that came to me while I was sanding a spindle one day. I thought it was worth sharing.
> ...


I thought every woodworker knew that, LOL.


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Making Fine Dust for Marquetry Mastic*
> 
> *This is a little video*I did last summer after having a "Doh!" moment. Very fine sanding dust is difficult to generate and contain in a clean, uncontaminated condition. The go to method has been hand sanding with ~220 grit paper.
> This is just a little trick that came to me while I was sanding a spindle one day. I thought it was worth sharing.
> ...


Wow! Talk about brain dead….me… LOL. I've been emptying my orbital sander into a baggie….......this is way better. Thnx Paul


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Making Fine Dust for Marquetry Mastic*
> 
> *This is a little video*I did last summer after having a "Doh!" moment. Very fine sanding dust is difficult to generate and contain in a clean, uncontaminated condition. The go to method has been hand sanding with ~220 grit paper.
> This is just a little trick that came to me while I was sanding a spindle one day. I thought it was worth sharing.
> ...


Good idea Paul.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Making Fine Dust for Marquetry Mastic*
> 
> *This is a little video*I did last summer after having a "Doh!" moment. Very fine sanding dust is difficult to generate and contain in a clean, uncontaminated condition. The go to method has been hand sanding with ~220 grit paper.
> This is just a little trick that came to me while I was sanding a spindle one day. I thought it was worth sharing.
> ...


Next time I have the lathe up and running I will make some boxes of dust.
That's a wonderful idea.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

shipwright said:


> *Making Fine Dust for Marquetry Mastic*
> 
> *This is a little video*I did last summer after having a "Doh!" moment. Very fine sanding dust is difficult to generate and contain in a clean, uncontaminated condition. The go to method has been hand sanding with ~220 grit paper.
> This is just a little trick that came to me while I was sanding a spindle one day. I thought it was worth sharing.
> ...


Very useful and quick!


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

*Fast Accurate Louis Cubes*

*Louis cubes have been around* for ever and with good reason. They are just a great 3D illusion.
I was making some this week for a couple of parquetry panels in my current project and took some pictures of the way I do it.
Maybe someone can use the ideas.

*First I rough ripped* the strips of ribbon Bloodwood veneer on my sled with a covering piece of 3/4" plywood.









*Then I trued them* to exact width with a simple shooting board.









*On to the guillotine* to chop the trapezoids.


















*If you get the pieces* accurately cut,assembly is dead easy. The only thing to watch is that you get the small amount of tearout (from the bottom of the pieces as they cut in the guillotine) to be the glue side. The tops will be perfect.

*Bottom* (glue side)









*Top* (show side)









*Assembled panel*. Start to finish a panel like this takes about an hour.









Thanks for looking

Paul


----------



## Druid (Sep 30, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Fast Accurate Louis Cubes*
> 
> *Louis cubes have been around* for ever and with good reason. They are just a great 3D illusion.
> I was making some this week for a couple of parquetry panels in my current project and took some pictures of the way I do it.
> ...


Great to be able to see your technique Paul. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## MLWilson (Jun 28, 2015)

shipwright said:


> *Fast Accurate Louis Cubes*
> 
> *Louis cubes have been around* for ever and with good reason. They are just a great 3D illusion.
> I was making some this week for a couple of parquetry panels in my current project and took some pictures of the way I do it.
> ...


"Falling Blocks" have a name? "Louis Cubes?" New one on me.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/168242


----------



## Woodwrecker (Aug 11, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Fast Accurate Louis Cubes*
> 
> *Louis cubes have been around* for ever and with good reason. They are just a great 3D illusion.
> I was making some this week for a couple of parquetry panels in my current project and took some pictures of the way I do it.
> ...


Always a pleasure to watch how you do a process Paul.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Eric


----------



## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Fast Accurate Louis Cubes*
> 
> *Louis cubes have been around* for ever and with good reason. They are just a great 3D illusion.
> I was making some this week for a couple of parquetry panels in my current project and took some pictures of the way I do it.
> ...


Louis cubes were originally names after French King Louis XIV [not sure of the number] the pattern was then adopted by American quilters and called tumbling blocks…
As I understand it…It is a tessellated rhomboid..
Nice work…
And you might want to check out Robin Tucker who cuts his pieces with a bicycle power table saw…
http://lumberjocks.com/WoodMosaics
Cheers,


----------



## madburg (Feb 3, 2016)

shipwright said:


> *Fast Accurate Louis Cubes*
> 
> *Louis cubes have been around* for ever and with good reason. They are just a great 3D illusion.
> I was making some this week for a couple of parquetry panels in my current project and took some pictures of the way I do it.
> ...


Great method. Like the guillotine. Season greetings and a successful and prosperous 2018 to you and yours!


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Fast Accurate Louis Cubes*
> 
> *Louis cubes have been around* for ever and with good reason. They are just a great 3D illusion.
> I was making some this week for a couple of parquetry panels in my current project and took some pictures of the way I do it.
> ...


You make it look so easy Paul. Perfect result.


----------



## oldguy2 (Jun 29, 2014)

shipwright said:


> *Fast Accurate Louis Cubes*
> 
> *Louis cubes have been around* for ever and with good reason. They are just a great 3D illusion.
> I was making some this week for a couple of parquetry panels in my current project and took some pictures of the way I do it.
> ...


Thanks for the make it look easy when you see the parts shown well. Very good points. As a retired teacher, my compliments. Have safe travels in 2018.
My future Shop and home is in Glendale.AZ. Thanks again for the blog. Good to go with my Shopsmith and tool sets and planning so far.


----------



## Schwieb (Dec 3, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Fast Accurate Louis Cubes*
> 
> *Louis cubes have been around* for ever and with good reason. They are just a great 3D illusion.
> I was making some this week for a couple of parquetry panels in my current project and took some pictures of the way I do it.
> ...


I'm inspired, You make it look so easy as a master always does.


----------



## drewpy (Sep 7, 2014)

shipwright said:


> *Fast Accurate Louis Cubes*
> 
> *Louis cubes have been around* for ever and with good reason. They are just a great 3D illusion.
> I was making some this week for a couple of parquetry panels in my current project and took some pictures of the way I do it.
> ...


Great process and thanks for sharing the detail.


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Fast Accurate Louis Cubes*
> 
> *Louis cubes have been around* for ever and with good reason. They are just a great 3D illusion.
> I was making some this week for a couple of parquetry panels in my current project and took some pictures of the way I do it.
> ...


Very cool thanks, Paul.


----------



## Detoro (Jan 17, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Fast Accurate Louis Cubes*
> 
> *Louis cubes have been around* for ever and with good reason. They are just a great 3D illusion.
> I was making some this week for a couple of parquetry panels in my current project and took some pictures of the way I do it.
> ...


Nice work Paul. Reminds me of my days at school, learning geometry!
HAPPY NEW YEAR! All the best in 2018!
It;s minus 31 here this morning! Bah Humbug!


----------



## drewpy (Sep 7, 2014)

shipwright said:


> *Fast Accurate Louis Cubes*
> 
> *Louis cubes have been around* for ever and with good reason. They are just a great 3D illusion.
> I was making some this week for a couple of parquetry panels in my current project and took some pictures of the way I do it.
> ...


Thanks for sharing your tips. I would love to try this sometime but I don't think I have to proper equipment to make these accurate cuts. You help inspire me. Thanks!


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

shipwright said:


> *Fast Accurate Louis Cubes*
> 
> *Louis cubes have been around* for ever and with good reason. They are just a great 3D illusion.
> I was making some this week for a couple of parquetry panels in my current project and took some pictures of the way I do it.
> ...


Super nice job!!!


----------



## Sigung (Nov 20, 2013)

shipwright said:


> *Fast Accurate Louis Cubes*
> 
> *Louis cubes have been around* for ever and with good reason. They are just a great 3D illusion.
> I was making some this week for a couple of parquetry panels in my current project and took some pictures of the way I do it.
> ...


This is a great post Paul, thanks!


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

shipwright said:


> *Fast Accurate Louis Cubes*
> 
> *Louis cubes have been around* for ever and with good reason. They are just a great 3D illusion.
> I was making some this week for a couple of parquetry panels in my current project and took some pictures of the way I do it.
> ...


shipwright May I ask what type blade you used for you diy guillotine.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Fast Accurate Louis Cubes*
> 
> *Louis cubes have been around* for ever and with good reason. They are just a great 3D illusion.
> I was making some this week for a couple of parquetry panels in my current project and took some pictures of the way I do it.
> ...


Thanks everyone.

*htl*, in this one I used a standard utility knife blade. This kind.

Maybe I'll post them (I have two) as a project with some build tips.


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## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

shipwright said:


> *Fast Accurate Louis Cubes*
> 
> *Louis cubes have been around* for ever and with good reason. They are just a great 3D illusion.
> I was making some this week for a couple of parquetry panels in my current project and took some pictures of the way I do it.
> ...


Thanks shipwright easy to find and very sharp.
I would think the trick to this is keeping the blade well supported and changing it out quite often..
Got to love our jigs,and jig making.

HMMM I can see using this in my making of very small parts, would be much safer and cleaner cut too.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Fast Accurate Louis Cubes*
> 
> *Louis cubes have been around* for ever and with good reason. They are just a great 3D illusion.
> I was making some this week for a couple of parquetry panels in my current project and took some pictures of the way I do it.
> ...


You are the man, sir. Thank you for all your expertise


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## Woodenwizard (Jan 25, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Fast Accurate Louis Cubes*
> 
> *Louis cubes have been around* for ever and with good reason. They are just a great 3D illusion.
> I was making some this week for a couple of parquetry panels in my current project and took some pictures of the way I do it.
> ...


I truly enjoy your how to posts. This is no exception. Thanks for sharing.


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## JR45 (Jan 26, 2012)

shipwright said:


> *Fast Accurate Louis Cubes*
> 
> *Louis cubes have been around* for ever and with good reason. They are just a great 3D illusion.
> I was making some this week for a couple of parquetry panels in my current project and took some pictures of the way I do it.
> ...


Very neat solution Paul, as always. What sort of thickness can a guillotine like this handle? I'm guessing about an 1/8th or less.
Jim


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Fast Accurate Louis Cubes*
> 
> *Louis cubes have been around* for ever and with good reason. They are just a great 3D illusion.
> I was making some this week for a couple of parquetry panels in my current project and took some pictures of the way I do it.
> ...


Depends on the wood Jim. With this rig and this blade I can do 1/32" Bloodwood (very hard) and probably 1/16" in softer material. However a bigger, heavier one could handle more.


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## davidtr3 (Nov 6, 2015)

shipwright said:


> *Fast Accurate Louis Cubes*
> 
> *Louis cubes have been around* for ever and with good reason. They are just a great 3D illusion.
> I was making some this week for a couple of parquetry panels in my current project and took some pictures of the way I do it.
> ...


Nice technique and cubes. Thanks for sharing.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Fast Accurate Louis Cubes*
> 
> *Louis cubes have been around* for ever and with good reason. They are just a great 3D illusion.
> I was making some this week for a couple of parquetry panels in my current project and took some pictures of the way I do it.
> ...


Beautiful.
Thank you for sharing your ways.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

*Hot Pipe Bending*

*I've read about this technique* in Pierre Ramond's books but never had a need for it before. I wish I had tried it out sooner. It is an amazing little technique and so easy that my first attempt was good enough to use and I had four rings like the one In the photos done in about a half hour.

*The pipe (or bar)* needs to be about 200 - 220 degrees F. I'll let the photos explain the procedure.

*Here's the setup.* A quick online search will turn up this style of jig in several places.










*My first try*, a ~1" coil, just the right size for my rings.










*Cut to size*










*Glued in* .....










*.....and sanded off*










*Next I tried* a 1/4" punch shaft for some more intricate pieces I will need tomorrow.










*Too easy!* You just gotta try this!

Thanks for looking in,

Paul


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## Sigung (Nov 20, 2013)

shipwright said:


> *Hot Pipe Bending*
> 
> *I've read about this technique* in Pierre Ramond's books but never had a need for it before. I wish I had tried it out sooner. It is an amazing little technique and so easy that my first attempt was good enough to use and I had four rings like the one In the photos done in about a half hour.
> 
> ...


Thanks Paul, another keeper!


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## Druid (Sep 30, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Hot Pipe Bending*
> 
> *I've read about this technique* in Pierre Ramond's books but never had a need for it before. I wish I had tried it out sooner. It is an amazing little technique and so easy that my first attempt was good enough to use and I had four rings like the one In the photos done in about a half hour.
> 
> ...


Looks great Paul. Now you've given me another technique to try, but thanks.


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## Grumpymike (Jan 23, 2012)

shipwright said:


> *Hot Pipe Bending*
> 
> *I've read about this technique* in Pierre Ramond's books but never had a need for it before. I wish I had tried it out sooner. It is an amazing little technique and so easy that my first attempt was good enough to use and I had four rings like the one In the photos done in about a half hour.
> 
> ...


Hey that looks like a sweet deal, How do you regulate the temp.? 
I use an old curling iron that my wife used to use when her hair was longer, and an old electric soldering iron (not gun) ... Looks like you are using some 1/8th inch stock, I bend 1/16 and 1/32 stock for string inlay usually holly.
I have found that some woods bend easily with heat and some are just to brittle, and some just want a bit of moisture added.
Thanks for the tip.


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## madts (Dec 30, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Hot Pipe Bending*
> 
> *I've read about this technique* in Pierre Ramond's books but never had a need for it before. I wish I had tried it out sooner. It is an amazing little technique and so easy that my first attempt was good enough to use and I had four rings like the one In the photos done in about a half hour.
> 
> ...


Do you soak the wood beforhand? Looks very cool.

-Madts.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Hot Pipe Bending*
> 
> *I've read about this technique* in Pierre Ramond's books but never had a need for it before. I wish I had tried it out sooner. It is an amazing little technique and so easy that my first attempt was good enough to use and I had four rings like the one In the photos done in about a half hour.
> 
> ...


I'm using 1/16" maple, wet. The pieces are in water in the milk jug in photo #1. I just set the torch at dead low and check it with water drops. I will be experimenting with some others. This is fun.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Hot Pipe Bending*
> 
> *I've read about this technique* in Pierre Ramond's books but never had a need for it before. I wish I had tried it out sooner. It is an amazing little technique and so easy that my first attempt was good enough to use and I had four rings like the one In the photos done in about a half hour.
> 
> ...


Hapy bending Paul. Your set-up looks great.


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## rad457 (Jun 15, 2013)

shipwright said:


> *Hot Pipe Bending*
> 
> *I've read about this technique* in Pierre Ramond's books but never had a need for it before. I wish I had tried it out sooner. It is an amazing little technique and so easy that my first attempt was good enough to use and I had four rings like the one In the photos done in about a half hour.
> 
> ...


Interesting, wonder how it would work for the toboggan I am building? Congrats, saw that happy face on the Roll of the Dice!


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## madburg (Feb 3, 2016)

shipwright said:


> *Hot Pipe Bending*
> 
> *I've read about this technique* in Pierre Ramond's books but never had a need for it before. I wish I had tried it out sooner. It is an amazing little technique and so easy that my first attempt was good enough to use and I had four rings like the one In the photos done in about a half hour.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the reminder! Just need something that warrants some curved stringing now!


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Hot Pipe Bending*
> 
> *I've read about this technique* in Pierre Ramond's books but never had a need for it before. I wish I had tried it out sooner. It is an amazing little technique and so easy that my first attempt was good enough to use and I had four rings like the one In the photos done in about a half hour.
> 
> ...


Another good one. In Arizona?


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Hot Pipe Bending*
> 
> *I've read about this technique* in Pierre Ramond's books but never had a need for it before. I wish I had tried it out sooner. It is an amazing little technique and so easy that my first attempt was good enough to use and I had four rings like the one In the photos done in about a half hour.
> 
> ...


Very interesting Paul. Thnx for sharing your expertise


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Hot Pipe Bending*
> 
> *I've read about this technique* in Pierre Ramond's books but never had a need for it before. I wish I had tried it out sooner. It is an amazing little technique and so easy that my first attempt was good enough to use and I had four rings like the one In the photos done in about a half hour.
> 
> ...


Less is more!
Thank you dear teacher, learned so much from you.
This one I have to try.
Hope you are fine and with a smile, my dear friend.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

*Re-design of my Veneer Guillotine*

*I've built two wooden* veneer chopping guillotines I the past and they have worked very well for me but faced with the task of producing over a thousand little fillets for the parquetry on my current project, I decided to go metal. After a (very) little thought I decided that the easy way to go would be pipe fittings.

*So ….. * I give you the steampunk veneer guillotine!


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## madburg (Feb 3, 2016)

shipwright said:


> *Re-design of my Veneer Guillotine*
> 
> *I've built two wooden* veneer chopping guillotines I the past and they have worked very well for me but faced with the task of producing over a thousand little fillets for the parquetry on my current project, I decided to go metal. After a (very) little thought I decided that the easy way to go would be pipe fittings.
> 
> *So ….. * I give you the steampunk veneer guillotine!


The process reminds me of Japanese Kumiko screens. Though they are sawing the tiny pieces. Great to see your progress.


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## Dark_Lightning (Nov 20, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Re-design of my Veneer Guillotine*
> 
> *I've built two wooden* veneer chopping guillotines I the past and they have worked very well for me but faced with the task of producing over a thousand little fillets for the parquetry on my current project, I decided to go metal. After a (very) little thought I decided that the easy way to go would be pipe fittings.
> 
> *So ….. * I give you the steampunk veneer guillotine!


OK, stupid question- the pipes aren't threaded at the pivot, right? Else the cut might be tapered a little? Given the length of the arm, maybe not enough to worry about? With that number of pieces, I can see why you went this route. Cool guillotine, in any event!


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Re-design of my Veneer Guillotine*
> 
> *I've built two wooden* veneer chopping guillotines I the past and they have worked very well for me but faced with the task of producing over a thousand little fillets for the parquetry on my current project, I decided to go metal. After a (very) little thought I decided that the easy way to go would be pipe fittings.
> 
> *So ….. * I give you the steampunk veneer guillotine!


3/4" pipe is 14 tpi. so in 360 degrees travel the side travel would be 1/14". The circumference of travel of the cutterhead is about 64" so that would be a side travel of about 1/900 per inch. My veneer is 1/16" so the side travel while cutting is about 1/14000"
Thanks for making me do the calculation.


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## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Re-design of my Veneer Guillotine*
> 
> *I've built two wooden* veneer chopping guillotines I the past and they have worked very well for me but faced with the task of producing over a thousand little fillets for the parquetry on my current project, I decided to go metal. After a (very) little thought I decided that the easy way to go would be pipe fittings.
> 
> *So ….. * I give you the steampunk veneer guillotine!


Paul,

Thanks for the math lesson (even though it's probably not woke). That certainly looks like a nice setup for your cuts. What kind of a blade are you using? Is that a purpleheart blade holder?

L/W


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## rance (Sep 30, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Re-design of my Veneer Guillotine*
> 
> *I've built two wooden* veneer chopping guillotines I the past and they have worked very well for me but faced with the task of producing over a thousand little fillets for the parquetry on my current project, I decided to go metal. After a (very) little thought I decided that the easy way to go would be pipe fittings.
> 
> *So ….. * I give you the steampunk veneer guillotine!


Pretty ingenious.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Re-design of my Veneer Guillotine*
> 
> *I've built two wooden* veneer chopping guillotines I the past and they have worked very well for me but faced with the task of producing over a thousand little fillets for the parquetry on my current project, I decided to go metal. After a (very) little thought I decided that the easy way to go would be pipe fittings.
> 
> *So ….. * I give you the steampunk veneer guillotine!


Utility knife blade and yes, purpleheart.


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## DennisLeeZongker (Jul 25, 2008)

shipwright said:


> *Re-design of my Veneer Guillotine*
> 
> *I've built two wooden* veneer chopping guillotines I the past and they have worked very well for me but faced with the task of producing over a thousand little fillets for the parquetry on my current project, I decided to go metal. After a (very) little thought I decided that the easy way to go would be pipe fittings.
> 
> *So ….. * I give you the steampunk veneer guillotine!


That is a really cool way of cutting. It's great to still see you here at LJ's making saw dust.


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## justoneofme (Aug 11, 2011)

shipwright said:


> *Re-design of my Veneer Guillotine*
> 
> *I've built two wooden* veneer chopping guillotines I the past and they have worked very well for me but faced with the task of producing over a thousand little fillets for the parquetry on my current project, I decided to go metal. After a (very) little thought I decided that the easy way to go would be pipe fittings.
> 
> *So ….. * I give you the steampunk veneer guillotine!


OMG! Ingenious Paul!!


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## Tony_S (Dec 16, 2009)

shipwright said:


> *Re-design of my Veneer Guillotine*
> 
> *I've built two wooden* veneer chopping guillotines I the past and they have worked very well for me but faced with the task of producing over a thousand little fillets for the parquetry on my current project, I decided to go metal. After a (very) little thought I decided that the easy way to go would be pipe fittings.
> 
> *So ….. * I give you the steampunk veneer guillotine!


Cool idea on the jig for sure. 
You're a better man than me though…even with a cool jig like that, I can't imagine doing that over a thousand times.
You can't just buy a bag of those from 'Harrys fillets and stuff' down on 10th?


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

shipwright said:


> *Re-design of my Veneer Guillotine*
> 
> *I've built two wooden* veneer chopping guillotines I the past and they have worked very well for me but faced with the task of producing over a thousand little fillets for the parquetry on my current project, I decided to go metal. After a (very) little thought I decided that the easy way to go would be pipe fittings.
> 
> *So ….. * I give you the steampunk veneer guillotine!


*Tony* The only place that ever sold these was in Paris and it closed in the nineteenth century.
..... early ….


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