# Knife Swap 2022



## Keebler1

So here's what we're doing (aka "the rules"):
The last and final swap of the year is going to be a knife swap. Whether it is a kit you bought and put scales on or did some forging to make one it all counts. Any kind of knife you wish. Extras are always welcome. Try to broaden your horizons and challenge yourself as that is the fun part of these swaps. Try to include some sort of wood in one of the items you send since we are all woodworkers and this is a woodworking forum.

YOU MUST PARTICIPATE IN THE THREAD TO PLAY! I'm very serious about this. I will drop you from the participation list faster than a drunk daddy with an ugly baby if you don't check in at least once a week. That means post a comment in the thread. Even if it's just "I'm still here and I'm working on my project." You need to post it. I think if you embrace the banter and participate regularly you'll have a good time and make some new friends though. If you're sensitive or can't take a joke though, you should probably just move on along. This is not the swap your looking for (in obi-wan's voice).
If you are new to LJ swaps I will require that you send me a picture of your completed project that you are ready to ship ON TIME - see dates below before your sender ships your package. Since there is no progress picture in this swap, this will ensure that everyone that ships a package on time receives one on time as well. Swap veterans can ignore this. Swap veterans will also know exactly why I'm doing this. I will NOT e-mail you or PM you a reminder if you don't provide this. Sorry but we're all adults. If I don't get this picture from you ON TIME, you will be dropped from the list and your recipient will be re-assigned to your sender. So PLEASE keep up with the deadline dates below and e-mail or PM me IN ADVANCE if there is an issue. I will work with you AS LONG AS YOU COMMUNICATE AHEAD OF TIME.
Other Stuff:

When you post your project, please use the tag knifeswap2022
For shipping reasons, unfortunately, we're going to have to restrict this to participants in the continental US. Sorry to the rest of y'all :-( but I dont think customs would play too nice with weapons being shipped across the border. Please feel free to play along at home though! Make yourself a nice new beer-guzzling or flesh-roasting accessory and show it to us when the rest of us reveal our swap packages! 
To sign up:
Shoot me an e-mail at [email protected]
Your email should contain:
LJ username
Real Name
Shipping Address
You'll receive an e-mail from the same address assigning your recipient and their address and information.

Dates:
If you're participating, send me an e-mail at the above address by Saturday 9/17.
I'll send out recipient information the following week sometime.
First time swappers MUST send me a picture of their ready-to-ship project by midnight CDT Friday 11/4
Please ship your package no later than Saturday 11/19.
We'll post reveal pictures on Saturday 11/26 or sooner if everyone receives theirs earlier.

I'll keep a list of participants below. If you send a registration e-mail but I don't put your name on this list in a day or 2, PM me or send another e-mail. Thanks for playing, let's have some fun!

1) Keebler1 S R
2) DaveP S R
3) Recycle1943 S R
4)GR8HUNTER S R
5) Pottz S R
6) RyanGi S R
7) HokieKen S R
8) TherealSteveN R
9) WoodenDreams S R
10) Eric S R
11) BigShooter S R
12) ToddJB S R


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## GR8HUNTER

the first swap i could do and it is knifes i will sit this one out :<(((


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## Keebler1

Sorry Tony we have been talking about the next swap and knifes was what several said they wanted to do. Would love to have you hang around in the thread though. There is still time for us to pressure you into participating lol


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## GR8HUNTER

> Sorry Tony we have been talking about the next swap and knifes was what several said they wanted to do. Would love to have you hang around in the thread though. There is still time for us to pressure you into participating lol
> 
> - Keebler1


I appreciate that but i am a horrible knife maker


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## Keebler1

As long as you have fun making it thats all that counts. Keep it in mind you have some time. Ive seen your work and im sure you would do better than I will


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## pottz

tony i think you could handle making scales on the handle.hey if you get in i will ? keebs has already sent me nasty threatening pm's with pictures of horses heads in the bed !!!!! cmon bud you need something to get you back in the saddle my friend.

now keebs you say try and include some "wood".so does this mean your gonna back off on the beloved plastic you so dearly cherish ? and you say you "must" participate.everyone says that but we all know it's a bluff !

so im gonna have my lawyer review this and determine my legal rights.ill get back to ya ;-))


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## Keebler1

Pottz you dont have legal rights. And yes I have an idea that includes wood and resin.


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## DavePolaschek

I'll be in. I'll send the email soon, Keebs.


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## pottz

im not sayin till the last day and minute !!!!


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## bigblockyeti

Well I'll excited watch this one. I have no idea what I'm doing with knife making, heck I'm not even that great at sharpening them.


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## pottz

> Well I ll excited watch this one. I have no idea what I m doing with knife making, heck I m not even that great at sharpening them.
> 
> - bigblockyeti


cmon yeti im sure your more than capable at cutting someone up ? that alone makes you a knife expert ?


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## Keebler1

Well I changed my plans up based on an email O received last night. Kits are ordered now to make the handle material. Yes Pottz I will make one handle all wood just for your viewing pleasure


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## recycle1943

I don't have a horse in this race but I just had to say that because of Covid 19 the worlds largest manufacturer of wooden yard sticks in not making them any *longer*.


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## splintergroup

Dick, get out those 36" scraps and your magic marker. Opportunity awaits! 8^)


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## DavePolaschek

Or sell 34" scraps with 36 marks and call it "shrinkflation!"


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## Keebler1

Damn Dave whyd you have to bring up shrinflation(when she asks if you are in yet) way to go just bring up horrible memories for someone


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## recycle1943

> I don't have a horse in this race but I just had to say that because of Covid 19 the worlds largest manufacturer of wooden yard sticks is not making them any *longer*.
> 
> - recycle1943


OK - I guess my twisted humor was higher than a 737 heading to Europe.

they are still making them and they are *still* 36" not longer


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## recycle1943

try this one -

one of the greatest inventions ever is the dry erase chalk board - It's *REMARKABLE*


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## Lazyman

Ba-dum-ching


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## HokieKen

Did you hear about that woman who accidentally backed up into a prop plane Dick?

Dis-assed-her


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## HokieKen

What do you call a fish with no eyes?

Fsh


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## pottz

if you want me in this swap the jokes better get a lot better !


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## recycle1943

no planes for me

My apologies to the entire LJ community - I shouldn't have started something I can't stay on top of but it's fun trying to


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## RichT




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## pottz

> no planes for me
> 
> My apologies to the entire LJ community - I shouldn t have started something I can t stay on top of but it s fun trying to
> 
> - recycle1943


no apologies needed dick ! so you gonna join this one ?


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## Lazyman

> Did you hear about that woman who accidentally backed up into a prop plane Dick?
> 
> Dis-assed-her
> 
> - HokieKen


 ... or the butcher who backed into the meat grinder…he got a little behind in is work.


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## recycle1943

?? For anybody

Would rosewood make suitable scales ?


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## recycle1943

Or how about ebony ?


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## Lazyman

Yes and yes


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## DavePolaschek

Yes, Dick. Those are both good choices.


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## pottz

> Yes and yes
> 
> - Lazyman


+1 so does this mean you may get in ?


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## recycle1943

> Yes and yes
> 
> - Lazyman
> 
> +1 so does this mean you may get in ?
> 
> - pottz


Yeah, I'm seriously thinking about it. I've got some nice lumber screaming at me - Not quite sure what it's saying but I think scales is what I hear


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## HokieKen

You can make good scales out of most any wood Dick. Just have to make sure they're tough enough for whatever the intended use of the blade is. Rosewood and Ebony are certainly excellent choices.


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## therealSteveN

Gonna watch from the sidelines. For a minute I thought Shecky Green was in the room. So many rimshots, Ba Da Bing…

For wood, species tough enough to work, grain that won't split when that species is cut down to a thin slice, and Ba Da Bing, when you look at it. Rosewood, and Ebony are both yes answers to those questions.


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## Keebler1

You could use Pottz's favorite…resin scales


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## pottz

you and that plastic fetish keebs.just get some sawdust in your lounges and you'll clear your head ;-))


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## bigblockyeti

I'm kinda partial to micarta myself but don't think I've got the equipment or background to try making any at home.


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## HokieKen

Wood + Resin can make some good looking stuff


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## recycle1943

OK - I caved and decided to give this a try. Fortunately I have a while to try some techniques to see if I can actually make something presentable. Fun for me and worrysome for my victim - and life goes on


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## GR8HUNTER

I am not joining just curious about something would you have to stabilze scales if you made them out of end grain or would that be just a bad idea ? :<))))) or :<(((((((


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## Keebler1

I wouldnt think it would mayter Tony. Join us I want to see the idea you are kicking around


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## DavePolaschek

End-grain scales would be more likely to snap in use, I think. Stabilization would maybe help a little, but it's not magic. I would still expect them to be quite a bit weaker than scales with the grain running "normally."

Then again, there's almost zero strength in that direction in stacked bark or leather scales, so with a through-tang to hold everything together, it might work pretty good.


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## GR8HUNTER

ok on to new idea not going to try that mess 
add me to this swap poor guy that gets my name :<(((((((


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## recycle1943

Tony - I see a disaster on the horizon. me never having made scales before and you with end grain scales, what's this knife swap coming to ?


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## GR8HUNTER

> Tony - I see a disaster on the horizon. me never having made scales before and you with end grain scales, what s this knife swap coming to ?
> 
> - recycle1943


not sure maybe it will only be us beginners I think I gave up on that end grain idea already I cannot stabilize anyway so plan b :<))))


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## pottz

> Tony - I see a disaster on the horizon. me never having made scales before and you with end grain scales, what s this knife swap coming to ?
> 
> - recycle1943
> 
> not sure maybe it will only be us beginners I think I gave up on that end grain idea already I cannot stabilize anyway so plan b :<))))
> 
> - GR8HUNTER


yeah id forget it.ive never seen an end grain knife handle.probably for good reason ?


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## HokieKen

Funny you ask Tony. I saw this picture a while back and have been contemplating trying something similar.









But, I think it would look really cool with endgrain in the center piece. As others have mentioned, that's likely to lead to a split. But I think with proper wood, something like Ironwood or Cocobolo, that has really dense grain, it would probably hold up for something like a carving knife. I'm still pondering it but haven't actually set to tackling it.


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## Keebler1

I dont see an issue with end grain scales. We aren't testing the knife like forged in fire so don't see where enough stress would be put on the scales


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## HokieKen

Depends on the tang style Keebler. For a full tang, you're probably right. The tang will bear the brunt of the load. For a blind tang though, you have the tang putting a lot of pressure on the handle and the handle ends up taking most of the beating.


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## bigblockyeti

> I dont see an issue with end grain scales. We aren t testing the knife like forged in fire so don t see where enough stress would be put on the scales
> 
> - Keebler1


I think that might depend heavily on the recipient. I know I've been a bit rough a time or two on different knives, that's why I like the Morakniv Craftline Basic 511. I paid $9.39 for the last one I bought in '19 and despite the not inflation we're seeing, it's still under $11 today. It's made from decent steel and I can baton the crap out of it without breaking it, so far anyway. It might make a great swap knife with just busting the factory plastic handle off and sculpting something a bit more seductive to wrap around the tang.


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## pottz

> I dont see an issue with end grain scales. We aren t testing the knife like forged in fire so don t see where enough stress would be put on the scales
> 
> - Keebler1


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## Lazyman

I wonder if you could simply soak the end grain with thin CA to stabilize it? in most woods, it will probably soak up a lot of CA before it starts to collect on the surface. It seems to work pretty well when stabilizing cracks when turning anyway. With a full tang where the scales are basically a thick veneer backed by metal, the biggest risk is probably from drilling holes and and peening pins to hold them in place.


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## HokieKen

I'm a big fan of Mora knives too Yeti. Value is fantastic. I have (2) 106's, (2) 120's and a 122 plus a 164 Hook Knife. You can also buy a lot of their blades without handles which would be a great offering for this swap IMHO.


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## Lazyman

> I m a big fan of Mora knives too Yeti. Value is fantastic. I have (2) 106 s, (2) 120 s and a 122 plus a 164 Hook Knife. You can also buy a lot of their blades without handles which would be a great offering for this swap IMHO.
> 
> - HokieKen


I just got one 738. ;-)


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## DavePolaschek

I've got something like a dozen Mora blades sitting in my shop. Plus a few clearance blades from WoodCraft. Pretty sure one or two of those will get used for this swap. And I might just try something with end grain. I've got some super-dense juniper which has a pretty color change between the heartwood and sapwood (and a 3 inch branch that's over 50 years old - stuff grows slow in the desert. Might just be able to work something out…


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## therealSteveN

> blades without handles which would be a great offering for this swap IMHO.
> 
> - HokieKen


I have looked at them a few times. Not a complete line though. Do they have "retired" knives? Couldn't find diddle about Nathans 738. Seems since I have been looking they are always catalogued by some flaky name. Grizzly, Sasquatch, crap like that. I think numbers sound a lot less like someone is compensating, than the flaky names.


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## HokieKen

LOL. Nathan's "738" was just a sum of all the model numbers I have ;-)

They don't offer all their blades sans handles but the 106 and 120 are the most popular carving knives. If there is another model you wanted, the cost difference with a handle is generally only a few bucks. So you could just buy a complete knife and split the handle off.


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## therealSteveN

For the time in making a set of scales, you could pin on a set of end grain to any flat piece of metal using some epoxy to hold. Once dried file down the pins, and just beat the living snot out of it,. If it fails, it does. If not I doubt seriously you did the ONE set that didn't fail out of 10,000 on your first try.

That is a case of give it a try logic. Or flying by the seat of yer pants engineering. Take your pick, but total time to find out is scant.

I think Nathans CA glue thought has a lot of merit, we use it to hold gnarly bark on stuff, and it works pretty well there. You know bark wants to jump off.


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## therealSteveN

> LOL. Nathan s "738" was just a sum of all the model numbers I have ;-)
> 
> They don t offer all their blades sans handles but the 106 and 120 are the most popular carving knives. If there is another model you wanted, the cost difference with a handle is generally only a few bucks. So you could just buy a complete knife and split the handle off.
> 
> - HokieKen


Got it, still not completely awake after my HUGE sleep, didn't see math as part of the info.


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## therealSteveN

Pottz, I don't see your name on the sign up list????? Wasn't it you bugging Tony to jump in? I nominate Pottz )))


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## therealSteveN

Looks like a lot of SWAP dodgers out there….


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## Lazyman

Sorry to introduce math into the thread. 

Note that I did not add them up in my head.


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## Lazyman

As usual, I will wait until the last minute to see I can get inspired and have the time to join.


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## HokieKen

I'm 90% sure I'm joining. I just have to test a couple of ideas on one of my own blades before I commit to doing it for someone else.


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## Keebler1

I have Nathans address. I am sure I can convince him to join one way or another…...


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## pottz

> Pottz, I don t see your name on the sign up list????? Wasn t it you bugging Tony to jump in? I nominate Pottz )))
> 
> - therealSteveN


gotta make keebs sweat a little.may do like duck and wait till the last minute.hey will it count if i just take a blade and wrap a lot of duct tape around the tang ?


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## bigblockyeti

> hey will it count if i just take a blade and wrap a lot of duct tape around the tang ?
> 
> - pottz


You have to use woodgrain duct tape but yeah, maybe spray it with sandalwood car spray so it smells the part too.


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## GR8HUNTER

> Funny you ask Tony. I saw this picture a while back and have been contemplating *joining and trying* something similar.
> 
> - HokieKen


fixed it put his name on the list Kevin :<))))))


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## pottz

> hey will it count if i just take a blade and wrap a lot of duct tape around the tang ?
> 
> - pottz
> 
> You have to use woodgrain duct tape but yeah, maybe spray it with sandalwood car spray so it smells the part too.
> 
> - bigblockyeti


so youve seen my beer swap projects ?


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## RichT

> gotta make keebs sweat a little.may do like duck and wait till the last minute.hey will it count if i just take a blade and wrap a lot of duct tape around the tang ?
> 
> - pottz


Cool. A shiv swap. Might come in handy next time I'm put in LJ jail.


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## HokieKen

I wish you would join Rich. You'd be a good addition to the "swap crew"


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## RichT

> I wish you would join Rich. You'd be a good addition to the "swap crew"
> 
> - HokieKen


I've never made a knife, Kenny. I seriously doubt my first try would be presentable. I do enjoy following along. These are fun threads.


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## Lazyman

You wouldn't be the first to join a knife swap having never made one before. Half the fun is seeing otherwise talented people struggle. Well, it is for me anyway. Helps my ego.


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## HokieKen

First knives I made were for the first LJs knife swap.


Definitely a learning curve making the blades. But a curve I'm glad I tackled.


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## Keebler1

Rich do what I am doing….buy a knife blank andnput scales on it. My kits were delicered this week. Now to get my 3d printers running so I can make some molds.

Nathan if I dont get them running this week I may send you some files to print


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## GR8HUNTER

*


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## RichT

> First knives I made were for the first LJs knife swap.
> 
> 
> Definitely a learning curve making the blades. But a curve I'm glad I tackled.
> 
> - HokieKen


Those are gorgeous! Now I'm sure I don't want to try. I'd never come close. As much as I'd like to be able to help boost Nathan's ego…


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## GR8HUNTER

i have to buy a kit knife as i have no way of forging one i just bought Elmers wood glue for my baby bot might do a test this weekend :<)))


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## RichT

> Rich do what I am doing….buy a knife blank andnput scales on it. My kits were delicered this week. Now to get my 3d printers running so I can make some molds.
> 
> Nathan if I dont get them running this week I may send you some files to print
> 
> - Keebler1


That's what I think of when it comes to making a knife. Head over to Woodcraft and buy a Zhen blank. Not forging steel…lol. Way out of my league. Besides, I don't have a 3D printer, so I can't join


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## Keebler1

We all need a good excuse to buy a new toy Rich. Speaking of wonder if i can convince my wife to either get me a forge or a 4th 3d printer


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## pottz

> I wish you would join Rich. You'd be a good addition to the "swap crew"
> 
> - HokieKen
> 
> I ve never made a knife, Kenny. I seriously doubt my first try would be presentable. I do enjoy following along. These are fun threads.
> 
> - Rich


thats the problem with swaps and no beer,guys actually judge what you make !


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## pottz

> Rich do what I am doing….buy a knife blank andnput scales on it. My kits were delicered this week. Now to get my 3d printers running so I can make some molds.
> 
> Nathan if I dont get them running this week I may send you some files to print
> 
> - Keebler1


hold on keebs,why do you needs molds for "wood" ?


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## Keebler1

Pottz I only said one handle would be all wood. I have an idea for one with wood and resin and a gisi style thats resin and 3d print as well. May do 2 all wood not sure. May use cholla in one of them. 
And yes Pottz before you ask my handles involve using the lathe


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## pottz

> Pottz I only said one handle would be all wood. I have an idea for one with wood and resin and a gisi style thats resin and 3d print as well. May do 2 all wood not sure. May use cholla in one of them.
> And yes Pottz before you ask my handles involve using the lathe
> 
> - Keebler1


ok ill give you the benefit of the doubt !
just make sure doug marcaida wont destroy it. ive reached out for him to test all the swap knives !


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## recycle1943

well, I think this will be a successful endeavor this time. I ordered a tool kit










and a custom made forge










Delivery was promised by Sunday so I probably should be looking for some pig iron


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## recycle1943

I found the pig iron, so I'm good to go










so being new to using a forge, any useful help will sure be appreciated


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## DavePolaschek

Looks like you're well on your way, Dick!


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## jeffswildwood

Just found this. I had been out of town, a trip to Pigeon forge. Wouldn't you know it that I would find it *after* the trip and spending two hours at *Smokey Mountain Knife Works*.


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## HokieKen

> Just found this. I had been out of town, a trip to Pigeon forge. Wouldn t you know it that I would find it *after* the trip and spending two hours at *Smokey Mountain Knife Works*.
> 
> - jeffswildwood


We're going down for a long weekend later this month if you need something Jeff ;-)


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## Keebler1

Teaser pic….turnera know where this package came from


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## recycle1943

My best guess is Mars Wrigley mfg.


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## therealSteveN

> Just found this. I had been out of town, a trip to Pigeon forge. Wouldn t you know it that I would find it *after* the trip and spending two hours at *Smokey Mountain Knife Works*.
> 
> - jeffswildwood


Anytime I am in Sevierville it's a stop that gets made, even if I don't buy anything. But that is a rare thing.


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## jeffswildwood

> Just found this. I had been out of town, a trip to Pigeon forge. Wouldn t you know it that I would find it *after* the trip and spending two hours at *Smokey Mountain Knife Works*.
> 
> - jeffswildwood
> 
> We re going down for a long weekend later this month if you need something Jeff ;-)
> 
> - HokieKen


I got a good tip for you. A great place to eat I found. Boss Hogg's BBQ. Not on the main drag but on a back road where the locals live. Only two miles off the main (traffic) drive in Pigeon forge. Lots of locals shops there too. One flaw, no beer.


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## GR8HUNTER

> I got a good tip for you. A great place to eat I found. Boss Hogg s BBQ. Not on the main drag but on a back road where the locals live. Only two miles off the main (traffic) drive in Pigeon forge. Lots of locals shops there too. One flaw, no beer.
> 
> - jeffswildwood


good BBQ and no BEER very odd :<((((((


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## Lazyman

Most of BBQ joints around here do not serve beer for some reason.


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## therealSteveN

A marketing decision in Texas. Fewer fights, and trouble at a Family place.

In TN could be a dry county. Funny that most of the hard hooch made in America is from Ky, and TN, and almost universally in dry counties.


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## EricFai

Keebler, so any kind of knife? Carving, camp knife or something else. Not sure yet, I have some paid projects that come first. And I need to experiment a little, no forge here. Even though I want to set one up.

If I don't sign up, I will at least follow along.


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## GR8HUNTER

> Keebler, so any kind of knife? Carving, camp knife or something else. Not sure yet, I have some paid projects that come first. And I need to experiment a little, no forge here. Even though I want to set one up.
> 
> If I don t sign up, I will at least follow along.
> 
> - Eric


yes any knife draw knife or what ever :<)))))

sign up have some fun


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## pottz

> Most of BBQ joints around here do not serve beer for some reason.
> 
> - Lazyman


*is that legal ?*


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## EricFai

I didn't even think about a draw knife. I need one of those.


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## HokieKen

Yeah I say anything goes as long as it's some sort of knife.


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## Keebler1

Kitchen knives work as well. Go buy some blanks and brass rod and put scales on something. If you dont join you have a new knife at least


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## pottz

what about a shiv,i got a few of those from my prison days ? i could dress em a little !


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## DavePolaschek

My first knife swap I sent a glitter-encrusted prison shank. There is precedent.

Edit to add: though to be fair, we haven't seen the recipient of those knives for over two years.


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## HokieKen

I have a new hook knife I'm working on a handle for.









If my method works out like I hope it will, I'll join up. Already have a knife design in mind


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## bndawgs

I need an old skillet. I watched a guy make one from that


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## HokieKen

I can't think of a worse idea Steve. I think brass would make a better blade than cast iron.


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## pottz

> I can't think of a worse idea Steve. I think brass would make a better blade than cast iron.
> 
> - HokieKen


a knife made from cast iron ? thats something ive never seen !


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## bndawgs

Here it is


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## bndawgs

So are you guys telling me I shouldn't have cut my old skillet up?


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## pottz

> Here it is
> 
> - Steve


thats damn cool !


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## pottz

> So are you guys telling me I shouldn t have cut my old skillet up?
> 
> - Steve


hell no ! go for it and show us what you did ?


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## Keebler1

Kenny I am lost. Why the curved metal in the handle?


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## HokieKen

I call Bull Sugar. That skillet sure looks like cast iron. And I know beyond a shadow of a doubt that cast iron isn't hardenable.


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## pottz

> I call Bull Sugar. That skillet sure looks like cast iron. And I know beyond a shadow of a doubt that cast iron isn't hardenable.
> 
> - HokieKen


thats mine understanding,hit it and it will shatter ?


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## HokieKen

> Kenny I am lost. Why the curved metal in the handle?
> 
> - Keebler1


It's not metal, it's G10. And going for something like this:









But putting the G10 between the endgrain joints.


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## Keebler1

Ok I see now. Nice. Look forward to seeing it finished


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## HokieKen

Yeah Pottz, it's very brittle and there isn't enough carbon in it to harden it. It would take a sharp-ish edge but by the time he slices up that bell pepper it'll be dull.


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## Keebler1

But for toutube all he has to to is make 1 cut


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## pottz

> But for toutube all he has to to is make 1 cut
> 
> - Keebler1


yep-lol.


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## pottz

well i just gave in and sent keebs my info for im in…..........damn, im so weak !


----------



## RichT

> well i just gave in and sent keebs my info for im in…..........damn, im so weak !
> 
> - pottz


You da man, Lar. Can't wait to see what you make.


----------



## pottz

WHAT !!!! wait i did what !!!! damn too much wine again ! ok fine im in…....i guess !!!!


----------



## RyanGi

I would burn down my shop if I had a forge…that's a bad idea.


----------



## DavePolaschek

Don't need to have a forge to play, Ryan. I have a forge, but it hasn't been set up yet, and probably won't be for this swap, either. I'll be using an off-the-shelf blade, or perhaps grinding one to make a shape I want.


----------



## jeffswildwood

> I didn t even think about a draw knife. I need one of those.
> 
> - Eric


I tried one of those in the last knife swap. I failed badly.



> what about a shiv,i got a few of those from my prison days ? i could dress em a little !
> 
> - pottz


After 23 years of working inside. I saw many of those. Some were actually pretty nice, right down to the blue masking tape handle. Or tightly wrapped sheet strips.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

> I tried one of those in the last knife swap. I failed badly.
> 
> - jeffswildwood


well if that the one i was in you *DID NOT * fail buddy :<))))

I think cast iron is same as white metal or am i talking BS :<)))))


----------



## RyanGi

> Don't need to have a forge to play, Ryan. I have a forge, but it hasn't been set up yet, and probably won't be for this swap, either. I'll be using an off-the-shelf blade, or perhaps grinding one to make a shape I want.
> 
> - Dave Polaschek


So, if I were to grind one, do I just use mild steel, grind it down and then try to get it hot enough with a torch to then quench it?

I do a bit of metal working, but not smithing…


----------



## HokieKen

Not mild steel, high carbon steel. O1 and 1095 are good choices and readily avilable.


----------



## Keebler1

Also Kenny and the group could correct me if I am wrong but I believe you want the yellow bottle for your torch not blue. What gas is in the yellow vs blue guys?


----------



## EricFai

I think the yellow is the Mapp gas, seems to burn hotter. That is what I use to sweat copper.


----------



## RyanGi

Hmmm….I've got mapp gas, and a bunch of grinders. I'm sure I can get some steel. I wonder if I can find a way to get a new tool out of this without going tooooo far overboard. I dunno, this whole thing is definitely out of my comfort zone.


----------



## Keebler1

One of these knife swaps I will try it but I want to get a 2×72 before I do.


----------



## EricFai

Not sure if the better half will go for me purchasing a thin belt sander. I could use one though, wonder if one could be fabricated.


----------



## Lazyman

BTW, you find hardenable steel around the house. For example, old worn out lawn mower or edger blades are necessarily carbon steel of some kind. I frequently find old edger blades dropped by the lawn maintenance crews in my neighborhood (I always pick them up). I've seen YouTubers cut up table saw blades to make knives. I do not know what kind of steel they are but they must be something other than mild steel.


----------



## Lazyman

> Not sure if the better half will go for me purchasing a thin belt sander. I could use one though, wonder if one could be fabricated.
> 
> - Eric


There are several YouTubers who have made thin belt sander, though you'd better get started if you want to use it on this swap. Woodsmith or Shopnotes has plans a fairly simple one (could be even simpler). At least one LJ project on that as I recall.


----------



## EricFai

That would be neat, just need to find a small motor say 1/4 or 1/3 HP. I check I to the woodsmith plans and see what I can find.


----------



## pottz

heres one that looks real cool.id love to try making one but i dont think time will allow it.


----------



## EricFai

An old 10" blade would be the right size for a draw knife or 2. I think I have a few old ones hanging around.


----------



## RyanGi

Maybe I could convince my wife to let me buy one of the add-on belt sanders for a bench top grinder. I don't use both stones on the Dewalt on the metal side of the shop often. I bet I could get away with only one wheel there.


----------



## therealSteveN

I'm going to make a knife or 3. IF I get it done by the sign up deadline I'll see if Keebs will let me join. Then I can ship it within 24 hours of finding out who to send it to. Hard to be late for a reveal date that way…. Definitely a new approach to swaps for me.

I do know I need a new sander, hadn't considered a strip sander, but maybe?


> ?


----------



## Lazyman

> Maybe I could convince my wife to let me buy one of the add-on belt sanders for a bench top grinder. I don't use both stones on the Dewalt on the metal side of the shop often. I bet I could get away with only one wheel there.
> 
> - RyanGi


Once you have a belt grinder, you will probably only use the wheel for rough work.


----------



## Keebler1

Dont think I have stirred the pot yet today. Here ya go Pottz


----------



## pottz

your pure evil keebs . hey ill admit though that i have done some plastic pens.made my stomach upset so i had to quit ! ;-))

ps-i gotta say you did make me some pretty cool pencils and screwdrivers !


----------



## jeffswildwood

> I tried one of those in the last knife swap. I failed badly.
> 
> - jeffswildwood
> 
> well if that the one i was in you *DID NOT * fail buddy :<))))
> 
> - GR8HUNTER


Thanks buddy. I meant a draw knife I tried to make. I cut, ground and shaped for weeks and could not get a shape I liked. My problem was the cutting. I had a lot of those "I'll fix that later" moments that I couldn't fix.


----------



## therealSteveN

> your pure evil keebs . hey ill admit though that i have done some plastic pens.made my stomach upset so i had to quit ! ;-))
> 
> ps-i gotta say you did make me some pretty cool pencils and screwdrivers !
> 
> - pottz


Those Cholla molds Keebs showed the other day were magical. I think it's finding a balance, but some of his molds are pretty nice to look at, and I have seen some Fugly wood before.


----------



## therealSteveN

> I tried one of those in the last knife swap. I failed badly.
> 
> - jeffswildwood
> 
> well if that the one i was in you *DID NOT * fail buddy :<))))
> 
> - GR8HUNTER
> 
> Thanks buddy. I meant a draw knife I tried to make. I cut, ground and shaped for weeks and could not get a shape I liked. My problem was the cutting. I had a lot of those "I ll fix that later" moments that I couldn t fix.
> 
> - jeffswildwood


Draw knives, and the Geometry between blade angle, and handle cant are otherworldly compared to a simple knife, where you are expected to turn, and move your wrist to get the same alignment you should see just pulling backward with a draw knife. I wouldn't chastise myself too much.


----------



## pottz

> your pure evil keebs . hey ill admit though that i have done some plastic pens.made my stomach upset so i had to quit ! ;-))
> 
> ps-i gotta say you did make me some pretty cool pencils and screwdrivers !
> 
> - pottz
> 
> Those Cholla molds Keebs showed the other day were magical. I think it s finding a balance, but some of his molds are pretty nice to look at, and I have seen some Fugly wood before.
> 
> - therealSteveN


hey he kicks ass,but i cant tell him that or his head is gonna swell ;-))


----------



## Keebler1

I am part of a pen swap group on facebook. This swap we had to send someone 3 blanks and they were to turn a pen with one and send it back. Mine just got back today.


----------



## pottz

> I am part of a pen swap group on facebook. This swap we had to send someone 3 blanks and they were to turn a pen with one and send it back. Mine just got back today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Keebler1


sweet !!!


----------



## therealSteveN

A question for those saying to strip off a handle from an existing knife, so you can re-handle it? How would you go about taking off a handle from something like these 2?

Morakniv Craftline Basic 511










*OR*

Morakniv Craftline Carpentry Chisel










I didn't see anything similar on the Mora site, or anything as affordable for material.


----------



## therealSteveN

That makes a very interesting pen Keebs.


----------



## pottz

i dont think id try to remove a handle like those trsn,could be a real pita ! look around i found tons of knife blanks in every size and style you can think of.


----------



## RichT

I was just about to join the swap until I priced out cryogenic chambers for metal. Whew! Kinda costly.


----------



## therealSteveN

> i dont think id try to remove a handle like those trsn,could be a real pita ! look around i found tons of knife blanks in every size and style you can think of.
> 
> - pottz


Thanks Larry. I was really interested in the 2 I'm showing. If you can find a link for the Mora steel, of those 2 I posted I would be in your debt. It's possible they are out there, and my GoofleFu has hit a rough patch, but I seriously looked. I could buy a few copies of the ones listed, and just start cutting but was hoping not to F up the blades in the process. Seemed a few had talked about de-constructing a made knife, to re-handle it.

I am thinking for myself as much as anything, not a huge fan of the Plastihandle, and would prefer wood, but I keep hearing about how wonderful these Moraknives are, and wanted to check them out. No interest at all in inventing steel. Guys like Ron Hock are before me, and I think it wiser to buy from them, than reinvent the wheel, not to mention cost involved in doing so.


----------



## bndawgs

One review said that the 511 wasn't a full tang. So you could probably cut the bottom of the handle off and then dremel the rest on each side to split it off


----------



## DavePolaschek

SteveN,

That first one looks like either a #2 or a #2000.

Check the mora knife blanks page and see what you think. I order direct from them frequently, and shipping is usually a week or so.

Failing that, email them asking for what you want. They're generally pretty helpful.


----------



## Keebler1

Just to put Pottz at ease from my plastic posts yesterday here you go


----------



## duckmilk

> Maybe I could convince my wife to let me buy one of the add-on belt sanders for a bench top grinder. I don't use both stones on the Dewalt on the metal side of the shop often. I bet I could get away with only one wheel there.
> 
> - RyanGi
> 
> Once you have a belt grinder, you will probably only use the wheel for rough work.
> 
> - Lazyman


What Nathan said is true. I use the belt side all the time and have a wire brush wheel on the other. Haven't had a grinding wheel on in at least 2 months.

The add-on from Oregon Blade Maker is pretty reasonable but, you may want a more powerful grinder to run it. I have a 1hp variable speed on mine and flattening a sledge face, I brought it to a stop one time.

Here's Nathan helping setting it up.


----------



## pottz

> I was just about to join the swap until I priced out cryogenic chambers for metal. Whew! Kinda costly.
> 
> - Rich


no need to go extreme rich,im just gonna get a blank blade and make a handle,and if time a bonus maybe.


----------



## pottz

> Just to put Pottz at ease from my plastic posts yesterday here you go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Keebler1


i knew you had some in your shop !


----------



## bigblockyeti

> A question for those saying to strip off a handle from an existing knife, so you can re-handle it? How would you go about taking off a handle from something like these 2?
> 
> Morakniv Craftline Basic 511
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OR*
> 
> Morakniv Craftline Carpentry Chisel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn t see anything similar on the Mora site, or anything as affordable for material.
> 
> - therealSteveN


This is what I struggle with, these are both great knives, I have both and multiples of the 511 so cutting the handle off and making something inferior (as best I could do anyway) seems like an effort in futility.


----------



## RyanGi

> Maybe I could convince my wife to let me buy one of the add-on belt sanders for a bench top grinder. I don't use both stones on the Dewalt on the metal side of the shop often. I bet I could get away with only one wheel there.
> 
> - RyanGi
> 
> Once you have a belt grinder, you will probably only use the wheel for rough work.
> 
> - Lazyman
> 
> What Nathan said is true. I use the belt side all the time and have a wire brush wheel on the other. Haven t had a grinding wheel on in at least 2 months.
> 
> The add-on from Oregon Blade Maker is pretty reasonable but, you may want a more powerful grinder to run it. I have a 1hp variable speed on mine and flattening a sledge face, I brought it to a stop one time.
> 
> Here s Nathan helping setting it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - duckmilk


Damn Duck, that look alright. Are you happy with it??
So you just snug your grinder up behind it, bold it all down, and put on the belt?
Any chance you could shoot a bunch more pics of it from other angles? I'm interested!


----------



## therealSteveN

Yeti. I had already ordered them from Amazoo when I first posted this. I got them this AM, they had overnight free included in the price. After seeing them, feeling them. I have had a change of heart. They do plastics proud, those handles look to be very nice, and fit my hand much better than I had expected.

As good as they are getting with the photography, they still leave a lot to be desired in the pics. I'm leaving them as I received them.

I can see that Carpenters chisel becoming my new favorite knife. 

I see my link above bit the farm, here it is hopefully.

Huh, seems they went up in price overnight too. I did good.


----------



## Keebler1

Latest thing off my resin printer. Still have to pull supports cure and paint it


----------



## therealSteveN

> SteveN,
> 
> That first one looks like either a #2 or a #2000.
> 
> Check the mora knife blanks page and see what you think. I order direct from them frequently, and shipping is usually a week or so.
> 
> Failing that, email them asking for what you want. They're generally pretty helpful.
> 
> - Dave Polaschek


Dave the knife is a 511. I looked at Morakniv site, but I have a weird thing about buying and not being able to see the price in US dollars until it's bought. I couldn't see a way to change the money, just a few basic changes of language, and I don't do enough Euro buying to understand their coin. It looked a LOT more expensive than through amazoo.


----------



## therealSteveN

> Latest thing off my resin printer. Still have to pull supports cure and paint it
> 
> - Keebler1


Keebs how many of those things do you have? I like the blue, does it need paint?


----------



## Keebler1

Guy I printed it for wants paint I do believe. I only charge an extra $10 to paint it but it takes then a lot longer to get


----------



## RichT

> Latest thing off my resin printer. Still have to pull supports cure and paint it
> 
> - Keebler1


Someday if you get in the mood, you should do a blog post so more of us can understand what that's all about.


----------



## DavePolaschek

Yes, I know the knife is a 511, but the blade looks to be the same as the 2000 blade. The 2000 is €20.99, which is near enough $20. There's another €20 for shipping to the US, which is kinda steep, but last time I bought, I bought over a dozen knives and blades, so I'm set for a while.

Looks like the 2000 blade is available on Amazon for about $25.


----------



## Desert_Woodworker

*Can the knife for this project be wooden?*


----------



## pottz

> *Can the knife for this project be wooden?*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Desert_Woodworker


why not,that would be real cool.but thats up to our host ? i know a plastic knife would pass ;-))


----------



## duckmilk

> Damn Duck, that look alright. Are you happy with it??
> So you just snug your grinder up behind it, bold it all down, and put on the belt?
> Any chance you could shoot a bunch more pics of it from other angles? I'm interested!
> 
> - RyanGi


Sure thing Ryan. I really like it as you can see from all the grunge it has accumulated.
I bought the chassis and a drive wheel to fit the 5/8 spindle on the grinder.



















It is driven by this variable speed grinder.










I paid extra for this articulated tool rest and really like it also.










Here is the link to their site.
Been buying belts from Combat Abrasives, really like them.


----------



## Keebler1

I think a wooden knife would be good as an extra but I think a knife people could use should be the main item.


----------



## RyanGi

Thanks Duck, now I just gotta see if I've got room for it. If it's not too much trouble, at some point when it's convenient, would you possibly get a footprint measurement and maybe how much it projects out the front ahead of the footprint for me? That might work perfectly for me, if I can make it fit. Thanks Duck!

Local beer with dinner tonight. The brewery name, Segull, is Icelandic for 'magnet'. Which plays on their logo of a compass. 67 refers to the 67th parallel, which they're located on. We drove by the brewery earlier today, but sadly they were closed as it's Sunday. The beer, Sjarmör, translates to 'Charmer'. It was a nice lager, as most of their beers here are…either that or Pils. Can't find a brown or a red to save my life. They've make a bunch of IPA for the tourists, but they're too much for me. Very West Coast IPA style… No loss, a lager goes fine with the local cuisine!


----------



## pottz

> I think a wooden knife would be good as an extra but I think a knife people could use should be the main item.
> 
> - Keebler1


yeah good point,id want a real knife also.


----------



## Keebler1

> Latest thing off my resin printer. Still have to pull supports cure and paint it
> 
> - Keebler1
> 
> Someday if you get in the mood, you should do a blog post so more of us can understand what that s all about.
> 
> - Rich


Do you want to know more about fdm printing, resin printing or both?



















This is from a screwdriver swap I ran a while back. This is an example of how I incorporate 3d printing in my work. The orange diamonds and the silver diamonds are 3d printed on an fdm printer then cast resin. That is one screwdriver handle


----------



## RichT

> Do you want to know more about fdm printing, resin printing or both?
> 
> - Keebler1


I don't even know enough to know what I don't know…lol


----------



## Keebler1

Rich got it I will post a blog. Not sure I have pics of molds I make but will go over both


----------



## RichT

> Rich got it I will post a blog. Not sure I have pics of molds I make but will go over both
> 
> - Keebler1


When you feel like it. I think many on LJ would enjoy learning more about what you do. It looks pretty cool.


----------



## Desert_Woodworker

I as well would be interested in seeing more on this…


----------



## therealSteveN

> Rich got it I will post a blog. Not sure I have pics of molds I make but will go over both
> 
> - Keebler1


I'm quite sure it will be read with great interest by many Keebs. I looked at it, and didn't really find a "this is how to", anywhere. I bet Pottz reads it too. ))

Of course he'll deny it. LOL.


----------



## pottz

> Latest thing off my resin printer. Still have to pull supports cure and paint it
> 
> - Keebler1
> 
> Someday if you get in the mood, you should do a blog post so more of us can understand what that s all about.
> 
> - Rich
> 
> Do you want to know more about fdm printing, resin printing or both?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is from a screwdriver swap I ran a while back. This is an example of how I incorporate 3d printing in my work. The orange diamonds and the silver diamonds are 3d printed on an fdm printer then cast resin. That is one screwdriver handle
> 
> - Keebler1


well that sure is pretty….......seems like ive seen that somewhere ?


----------



## pottz

> Rich got it I will post a blog. Not sure I have pics of molds I make but will go over both
> 
> - Keebler1
> 
> I m quite sure it will be read with great interest by many Keebs. I looked at it, and didn t really find a "this is how to", anywhere. I bet Pottz reads it too. ))
> 
> Of course he ll deny it. LOL.
> 
> - therealSteveN


not at all, proud to have it in my tool box !


----------



## duckmilk

Ryan, the bench I made for it measures 23" wide by 27" deep, the end of the tool rest projects out 12" because I want to work from 3 sides. I made the bench 33 1/2" tall because I am standing when using it and didn't want to have to bend over constantly. The tool rest is about waist high but can be adjusted since it is articulated.

Second picture shows it pretty well.










Edit: actually 23" x 23" would work since I have about 4" of unused space behind the Griz.


----------



## duckmilk

^ Actually, the Grizzly is a good machine but I wish I has spent a little more for the Jet which does the same thing but is quieter and shuts down faster.


----------



## pottz

> ^ Actually, the Grizzly is a good machine but I wish I has spent a little more for the Jet which does the same thing but is quieter and shuts down faster.
> 
> - duckmilk


good to know duck because im looking at a machine like yours,and im a big jet fan to start with ! win win !


----------



## RyanGi

Thanks again Duck. Do you think the variable speed is necessary? Or just a nice to have? I've got a couple motors I could use, but I think they're all 3/4 horse. I'm not sure if I can put a reostat on them though…


----------



## Keebler1

I dont have a 2×72 but I believe you will want either a 1hp or 2hp motor on it.


----------



## duckmilk

In my opinion, 1 hp is the minimum for this size chassis. I have put enough pressure on the belt twice that it brought the motor to a stop, last time was yesterday. I was reshaping some forging tongs and was running it at 1500 rpm. 2 hp would be much better but then you're talking about a lot more money to get variable speed.



> Thanks again Duck. Do you think the variable speed is necessary? Or just a nice to have? I've got a couple motors I could use, but I think they're all 3/4 horse. I'm not sure if I can put a reostat on them though…
> 
> - RyanGi


I use mine quite a lot and mostly run it at 900 to 1500 rpm. It goes up to 3600 which is screaming fast. I don't foresee myself ever using it at that speed.
For grinding an edge on a tool, slower is better because it keeps the steel cooler and you have more time to recover from presenting it at a bad angle.

Edit: it is also pretty handy at shaping wood handles at a slow speed.


----------



## DavePolaschek

> For grinding an edge on a tool, slower is better because it keeps the steel cooler and you have more time to recover from presenting it at a bad angle.


Just fixed up a badly dubbed plane blade by hand. It went from 22 to 35 degrees along a pretty smooth curve. Yeah, I probably could've fixed it quicker on the grinder or a belt, but doing it by hand let me see exactly what was happening as I went, and I eventually decided on a 25 degree primary bevel, then a tiny 30 degree secondary, which seems like it works pretty well.

If I'd taken it to the grinder, I probably would've just put a 30 degree hollow-ground bevel on it and called it a day.

I like making mistakes slower. It lets my brain keep up with my hands. ;-|


----------



## YRTi

Hi everyone! pottz kindly invited me to this swap. As I have no knowledge about a knife and my tools are limited, I'm trying to find if I can make one as well as the time schedule.

I'll be sure to send email to Keebler1 by 9/17 if I'm participating in it.

Thank you.


----------



## pottz

> Hi everyone! pottz kindly invited me to this swap. As I have no knowledge about a knife and my tools are limited, I m trying to find if I can make one as well as the time schedule.
> 
> I ll be sure to send email to Keebler1 by 9/17 if I m participating in it.
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> - YRTi


hey nothing fancy needed or forging.im no knife maker myself but i can buy a blank blade and put a handle on it.i hope you join us.


----------



## RichT

> Hi everyone! pottz kindly invited me to this swap.
> 
> - YRTi


I didn't think pottz ever did anything kindly!


----------



## Keebler1

> Hi everyone! pottz kindly invited me to this swap.
> 
> - YRTi
> 
> I didn t think pottz ever did anything kindly!
> 
> - Rich


Pottz was drunker than a skunk when he kindly invited YRTi


----------



## bndawgs

I'm pretty sure I was drunker than a skunk last night. I'm still hurting


----------



## RichT

> Pottz was drunker than a skunk when he kindly invited YRTi
> 
> - Keebler1


When I drink I get wittier and more charming.


----------



## pottz

> Hi everyone! pottz kindly invited me to this swap.
> 
> - YRTi
> 
> I didn t think pottz ever did anything kindly!
> 
> - Rich


so im a tough love kinda guy,whats wrong with that ?


----------



## pottz

> Hi everyone! pottz kindly invited me to this swap.
> 
> - YRTi
> 
> I didn t think pottz ever did anything kindly!
> 
> - Rich
> 
> Pottz was drunker than a skunk when he kindly invited YRTi
> 
> - Keebler1


it was this morning….........i am a little hung over though-lol !


----------



## pottz

> Pottz was drunker than a skunk when he kindly invited YRTi
> 
> - Keebler1
> 
> When I drink I get wittier and more charming.
> 
> - Rich


so you quit drinking huh ? ;-))


----------



## RichT

> When I drink I get wittier and more charming.
> 
> - Rich
> 
> so you quit drinking huh ? ;-))
> 
> - pottz


LOL. Good one. You are kidding though, right?


----------



## pottz

> When I drink I get wittier and more charming.
> 
> - Rich
> 
> so you quit drinking huh ? ;-))
> 
> - pottz
> 
> LOL. Good one. You are kidding though, right?
> 
> - Rich


yeah.


----------



## duckmilk

> doing it by hand let me see exactly what was happening as I went, and I eventually decided on a 25 degree primary bevel, then a tiny 30 degree secondary, which seems like it works pretty well.
> 
> - Dave Polaschek


Me too Dave, I was referring to putting an initial bevel on, I sharpen all chisels, plane irons and knives by hand.

Lots of hangover chatter going on ;-)


----------



## YRTi

> Hi everyone! pottz kindly invited me to this swap.
> 
> - YRTi
> 
> I didn t think pottz ever did anything kindly!
> 
> - Rich
> 
> so im a tough love kinda guy,whats wrong with that ?
> 
> - pottz


I'm happy that no one doubted if I was drinking too much if that's the case… Thank you.


----------



## DavePolaschek

> Me too Dave, I was referring to putting an initial bevel on, I sharpen all chisels, plane irons and knives by hand.


Yeah, Duck. This one was bad enough that I thought about the grinder multiple times, just because there was so much metal to remove, but I find that making my mistakes in slow-motion saves me pretty often.

Fortunately, the Sharp Skate plus my coarsest stone only took about 45 minutes to turn that hump where the bevel was supposed to be flat. I really need to get my new bench built for the grinders, plus the hand-cranked grinder I got from Tony one of these days. I figure I'll go buy lumber for that once my lifting restriction is gone.


----------



## RyanGi

I like the idea of being able to use it with or without a platen. I have a hard time getting consistent curves in handles with my various sanders and this might help with that. It I can get it to fit…


----------



## Keebler1

Rich and everyone else. I dont see a spot to share a blog like a project post so gere is the 3d printing blog link.


----------



## RichT

> Rich and everyone else. I dont see a spot to share a blog like a project post so gere is the 3d printing blog link.
> 
> - Keebler1


Awesome. You really went all out. Thanks.


----------



## Keebler1

Anytime Rich. Any other questions feel free to ask or pm me


----------



## duckmilk

> I like the idea of being able to use it with or without a platen. I have a hard time getting consistent curves in handles with my various sanders and this might help with that. It I can get it to fit…
> 
> - RyanGi


I leave my platen in place and use the slack belt between the tracking wheel and the upper platen wheel for that purpose.


----------



## HokieKen

Busy thread this weekend! Good stuff. I haven't had a cell signal so I'm catching up.

Belt grinder - you don't know how much you want one until you have it. I built mine over several months and have a 2hp three phase motor driving it using a VFD for speed control. I couldn't tell you the last thing I made that didn't touch it. It's most commonlynused for knife making but I use it for wood all the time and to deburr machines parts. It's great for sharpening knives and with a couple of jigs, I could probably ditch my Wolverine setup and do my turning tools on it too.

Duck I am jealous of that work rest. That's the one thing I want to replace on mine. Mine works fine but has no adjustability other than in/out.

Ryan it sounds like slack belt sanding is what you need. A 2×72 is king in that arena but I used a 1×30 for a long time and it's a decent budget alternative to a big boy.

Duck, I have never bought belts from Combat but I love their flap wheels for my angle grinder. I have always ordered belts from Tru-Grit. I like Norton Ceramics in lower grits and 3M Trizact belts for finer grits. And if you don't have one, a Scotchbrite belt is an extremely handy thing 

If anyone is contemplating building one, I built mine from 2" Aluminum square tubing bolted together so there's no welding. I think I have some partial plans and I can definitely draw them up if not if anyone's interested.


----------



## duckmilk

Yes Kenny the articulating tool rest is awesome! I would bet it would fit your grinder.
I buy the ceramic belts from Combat and they run cooler, they also have some other cool belts I ordered but haven't used yet. I do have one of their Scothbrite belts also and haven't used it either. I also use the Black Bear Forge discount he has listed on his videos.
You are right about the functionality and versatility of the setup. Beats the crap out of an angle grinder.
Building one was something I considered and Nathan also helped me with some plans, but this thing is not that expensive and it arrived in a few days )


----------



## duckmilk

For this eminently knowledgeable group: Pictured below is the decorative nut that receives the screw to tighten the jaws on a leg vise I recently acquired.
It is full of grease and oil and has a small crack at the end which I want to clean off so I can put a small weld on to keep it from getting worse. Planning on soaking it in vinegar first, but to get the grease off, is there something more effective than brake cleaner?










Here is the nut:










It looks to be cast, but has to be hard enough steel for it to tighten the jaws "a lot".


----------



## therealSteveN

Duck the first thing I would do is get as much of the plug out manually as I could. Popsicle stick like wood to dig it out. Once you get most out then chemicals only have a little work to do.

At the last place I worked it was a factory operation that used Animal fats to create chemicals, so you can imagine the rendered down fats of 400,000 cows, and pigs a month would cause some maintenance problems. The guys next door were the pump shop, and they kept anything that pumped product, or ingredient around the plant. They used a buttload of Sodium Hydroxide (drain cleaner). They would pour a jug out into a plastic pan, and just drop the parts that were all plugged up into them. Drop back later, rinse it off, and they sometimes looked new. EYE Protection, a respirator, and gloves. Use brushes to scrub with if needed. It won't burn right through you, but left on skin you would maybe see breakdown, so if you had a plastic suit to wear, it would be smart.


----------



## RyanGi

Ken if you've got plan for a 2×72, I'd like to see them.


----------



## Lazyman

John Heisz has plans for a 2x72 belt grinder made from wood. Before plywood prices got so crazy, this might have been a cheaper alternative.

Here is a link to the OnShape design Duck and I were working on for a simplified belt grinder designed to be attached to a bench grinder. It was a based upon the Dakota Grinder you can see here. When we looked at the OMB one he finally bought, we decided that by the time you buy the steel and all the components to build the Dakota design, you might be half way or more to the cost of the OMB one. It would have been a fun exercise to make it but probably would not work as well as the OMB grinder.


----------



## Lazyman

BTW, here is another thing I use 3D printing for. I printed a scale model of the parts from the OnShape grinder design above. It is a handy way to see if the parts work together as expected. I even printed the belt using a flexible filament. 









I was actually going to use that DC motor sitting there just for fun to automate it but scaled down that much the main plate was a little too flexible to keep enough tension on the belt (which wasn't flexible enough) for it to work.


----------



## recycle1943

*check in at least once a week*

checkin' in


----------



## Lazyman

You are early, Dick. You didn't have to check in until tomorrow. ;-)


----------



## Lazyman

> Fortunately, the Sharp Skate plus my coarsest stone only took about 45 minutes to turn that hump where the bevel was supposed to be flat. I really need to get my new bench built for the grinders, plus the hand-cranked grinder I got from Tony one of these days. I figure I'll go buy lumber for that once my lifting restriction is gone.
> 
> - Dave Polaschek


Dave, doesn't the skate on that jig wear down as it rubs on the stone? It seems like if it is softer than what you are sharpening that by the time you spend 45 minutes on the edge, the skate would be nearly gone? What am I missing?


----------



## recycle1943

> You are early, Dick. You didn t have to check in until tomorrow. ;-)
> 
> - Lazyman


I was trying to be careful, didn't want to get detention ‹(•¿•)›


----------



## DavePolaschek

Nathan, the skate I have has inline TiN coated wheels rather than the aluminum wear bar of the new ones. After a half-dozen years of use, they show a little wear, but still roll freely. I'm not sure why they don't show the wheels anywhere on their website now, since it's what keeps you going side-to-side, rather than dragging the blade along the stone. That was the biggest beneficial change of the design, and I sharpen a lot of blades that way now, running the length of the bevel down the length of the stone. I find it a lot easier to maintain the angle, even without the skate, but when I'm having to change the angle, the skate helps to keep me from reverting back to the old angle.

There's a video on YouTube showing the old style with the wheels but otherwise they seem to have thrown the wheels into the memory hole.


----------



## HokieKen

> Ken if you've got plan for a 2×72, I'd like to see them.
> 
> - RyanGi


I apparently deleted all of my detailed plans with dimensions Ryan but I still have the 3D model. I made a quick drawing to show you the basics. I'd be glad to give more info if you decide to tackle it.

I chose to use Aluminum construction because:

It's cheap.
The tubing is extruded and it's more consistent than steel. Also 1.5" tubing telescopes well in 2" thick walled tubing.
I didn't have a welder when I built it and my welding is usually pretty hideous anyway.

Aluminum provides it's own unique challenges but I came up with some unconventional threading methods to address them and I've had my grinder in full service for 3 or 4 years now with no structural issues at all. There were some parts I chose to buy instead of make simply because the cost of materials and the amount of time it would have taken me to make the parts just didn't save enough money.

Happy to answer any questions or help you adapt it to your particular needs/space.


----------



## HokieKen

Duck has my wallet nervous. I'm off to look at articulating tool rests ;-)


----------



## HokieKen

> I like the idea of being able to use it with or without a platen. I have a hard time getting consistent curves in handles with my various sanders and this might help with that. It I can get it to fit…
> 
> - RyanGi
> 
> I leave my platen in place and use the slack belt between the tracking wheel and the upper platen wheel for that purpose.
> 
> - duckmilk


Same here Duck. Sometimes I also slide the platen back to have slack belt between the idler wheels. Just depends on whether I can see what I'm doing better on the top or on the front. I see guys on Youtube and Forged in Fire all the time using the slack belt between the drive wheel and the idler on the bottom to put an edge on a blade. I've never been able to use that area effectively though because I can't see what's going on.


----------



## splintergroup

> Duck the first thing I would do is get as much of the plug out manually as I could. Popsicle stick like wood to dig it out. Once you get most out then chemicals only have a little work to do.
> 
> At the last place I worked it was a factory operation that used Animal fats to create chemicals, so you can imagine the rendered down fats of 400,000 cows, and pigs a month would cause some maintenance problems. The guys next door were the pump shop, and they kept anything that pumped product, or ingredient around the plant. They used a buttload of Sodium Hydroxide (drain cleaner). They would pour a jug out into a plastic pan, and just drop the parts that were all plugged up into them. Drop back later, rinse it off, and they sometimes looked new. EYE Protection, a respirator, and gloves. Use brushes to scrub with if needed. It won t burn right through you, but left on skin you would maybe see breakdown, so if you had a plastic suit to wear, it would be smart.
> 
> - therealSteveN


+1

I regularly use oven cleaner (Lye in a spray can) to clean cast iron/steel parts. Works great. You can make it even more effective if you saturate the part and wrap it in plastic to keep it from drying as fast.

If the cleaner can reads "eco friendly" or anything close, it probably is too weak. You need something branded by a "big-chemical" mfg. I prefer the "Dow Chemical" brand, you know "it will keel" 8^)


----------



## Lazyman

> Nathan, the skate I have has inline TiN coated wheels rather than the aluminum wear bar of the new ones. After a half-dozen years of use, they show a little wear, but still roll freely. I'm not sure why they don't show the wheels anywhere on their website now, since it's what keeps you going side-to-side, rather than dragging the blade along the stone. That was the biggest beneficial change of the design, and I sharpen a lot of blades that way now, running the length of the bevel down the length of the stone. I find it a lot easier to maintain the angle, even without the skate, but when I'm having to change the angle, the skate helps to keep me from reverting back to the old angle.
> 
> There's a video on YouTube showing the old style with the wheels but otherwise they seem to have thrown the wheels into the memory hole.
> 
> - Dave Polaschek


Well that makes a lot more sense. I cannot imagine why they would have abandoned the wheels for bar. This video shows the original design better.


----------



## RyanGi

Ok, good info guys. I dunno. Pricing out the steel and the other parts I'm not sure I could make it for much less than they sell it for. Aluminum might be better by my Aluminum welding is pretty awful. I reached out to them via email with some technical questions, we'll see what they come back with.


----------



## DavePolaschek

> Well that makes a lot more sense. I cannot imagine why they would have abandoned the wheels for bar. This video shows the original design better.


Yeah. I suspect it was cost. It's a lot cheaper to make a bar than eight wheels, bearings, etc. Especially when the bar is aluminum instead of coated steel.

If you can find one of the old design, it rocks. I'm not sure why you'd want the new design.


----------



## Lazyman

Ryan, It seems like Duck's experience with OMB responding to email in a timely manner was a little sketchy but I think that they shipped it quickly once he ordered it. I think that one of his questions may have been about some of the dimension. I ultimately put an image from their website in a CAD program and used a known dimension to estimate some of the unknown ones.



> Duck has my wallet nervous. I m off to look at articulating tool rests ;-)
> 
> - HokieKen


 That OBM tool rest is pretty sweet, Kenny. There a few other grinder makers that sell something similar.


----------



## RyanGi

OBM got back to me timely enough, but it was a bit like pulling teeth to get the info I wanted. They didn't seem to want to tell me the actual dimension, just how much room their chassis requires. I get the gist of what they're saying, but it took several emails…damn man, just give me the info I'm asking for!


----------



## RyanGi

Kenny how did you tension the tracking wheel in your design? The vertical bar that's putting tension on the belt. OBM uses a strut…


----------



## duckmilk

The bottom mounting plate on the OBM measures 13" by 5.5".

The gas strut for tension is very functional, I just wish it had a way to lock down when changing belts.


----------



## duckmilk

Kenny, take a look at these pigs knuckles from Reeder. There are 4 pictures at the bottom of the page that shows how they are used.

Or at the bottom of this page by Pheer.


----------



## HokieKen

> Kenny how did you tension the tracking wheel in your design? The vertical bar that's putting tension on the belt. OBM uses a strut…
> 
> - RyanGi


The tube that has the tracking wheel mounted on it telescopes in the mating tube. I have a big compression spring down inside the larger tube that forces the smaller one up to provide tension. I have a locking knob on the side so I can lock it in the down position while changing belts. I made a wood spacer to go between the tensioner tube and the spring so I could adjust to get the force/range I needed. Works quite well. I'll try to remember to take a few pics of my grinder this evening.



> Kenny, take a look at these pigs knuckles from Reeder. There are 4 pictures at the bottom of the page that shows how they are used.
> 
> Or at the bottom of this page by Pheer.
> 
> - duckmilk


After a quick look around I decided that an articulated rest is gonna be one of those things I make instead of buy. I can make something like those pigs knuckles for about $5 and 15 minutes of my time. And that's the bulk of the work.


----------



## duckmilk

I kinda figured that once you saw what they are, you could make them.

Thanks TRSN and Splint for your comments. The grease and crud was on the outside making it difficult for the crack to show in the picture. I used hot water and Dawn and scrubbed it good with a toothbrush and it cleaned up pretty well. After rinsing and drying, I used the toothbrush and acetone which cleaned the remainder.
I used a dremel to create a small groove along the outside of the crack. Now to call in a favor for someone to put a tiny weld along it to stabilize it. (The female threads are on the inside)


----------



## RyanGi

> The bottom mounting plate on the OBM measures 13" by 5.5".
> 
> The gas strut for tension is very functional, I just wish it had a way to lock down when changing belts.
> 
> - duckmilk


Thanks Duck. I'm getting closer and closer to buying some of the parts from OBM and making my own using Ken's plan. And it would be an easy weld job. I figure his method (without the big side plates of the OBM chassis) ends up being much less expensive. I'd still buy the Platten/roller combo, the drive wheel, and the tracking wheel (and maybe some other little parts)…but I figure that ends up being somewhere around $250 (I would get the nylon wheels). It also looks like a pretty good, not terribly involved, project resulting in a cool tool!



> Kenny how did you tension the tracking wheel in your design? The vertical bar that's putting tension on the belt. OBM uses a strut…
> 
> - RyanGi
> 
> The tube that has the tracking wheel mounted on it telescopes in the mating tube. I have a big compression spring down inside the larger tube that forces the smaller one up to provide tension. I have a locking knob on the side so I can lock it in the down position while changing belts. I made a wood spacer to go between the tensioner tube and the spring so I could adjust to get the force/range I needed. Works quite well. I ll try to remember to take a few pics of my grinder this evening.
> 
> Kenny, take a look at these pigs knuckles from Reeder. There are 4 pictures at the bottom of the page that shows how they are used.
> 
> Or at the bottom of this page by Pheer.
> 
> - duckmilk
> 
> After a quick look around I decided that an articulated rest is gonna be one of those things I make instead of buy. I can make something like those pigs knuckles for about $5 and 15 minutes of my time. And that s the bulk of the work.
> 
> - HokieKen


Thanks Ken, that makes sense. If you were gonna do it again, would you go the spring route again? Or a strut?
And I agree, the pig knuckles would be an easy day on the mill…. More things to play with!


----------



## RyanGi

Ken, if you're willing, I'd love to get accurate measurements for what you built!


----------



## HokieKen

I'd stick with what I have for the tensioner because it's simple and it works Ryan. And it would be easy to adjust it if I change where the motor is mounted in relation to the chassis.

I'll take some measurements of my final build and add them to the drawing in the next day or two.


----------



## RyanGi

Sounds great Ken, thanks!


----------



## duckmilk

Good luck Ryan. The most critical thing about tracking is that all the wheels must line up with each other to work. Use a straight edge and check the alignment on both the tops and bottoms of each wheel with another one.


----------



## therealSteveN

> Nathan, the skate I have has inline TiN coated wheels rather than the aluminum wear bar of the new ones. After a half-dozen years of use, they show a little wear, but still roll freely. I'm not sure why they don't show the wheels anywhere on their website now, since it's what keeps you going side-to-side, rather than dragging the blade along the stone. That was the biggest beneficial change of the design, and I sharpen a lot of blades that way now, running the length of the bevel down the length of the stone. I find it a lot easier to maintain the angle, even without the skate, but when I'm having to change the angle, the skate helps to keep me from reverting back to the old angle.
> 
> There's a video on YouTube showing the old style with the wheels otherwise they seem to have thrown the wheels into the memory hole.
> 
> - Dave Polaschek


I have an "original" sharp skate I got from Hap long ago, and mine has a lot of miles on it, and still rolls like a charm. I never considered it wearing out to tell the truth, Now I'm gonna be worried Nathan…. Looking at that video, I'm pretty sure mine is several generations before the one being shown. I'll have to dig it out, and take a few pics to post.


----------



## therealSteveN

> I kinda figured that once you saw what they are, you could make them.
> 
> Thanks TRSN and Splint for your comments. The grease and crud was on the outside making it difficult for the crack to show in the picture. I used hot water and Dawn and scrubbed it good with a toothbrush and it cleaned up pretty well. After rinsing and drying, I used the toothbrush and acetone which cleaned the remainder.
> I used a dremel to create a small groove along the outside of the crack. Now to call in a favor for someone to put a tiny weld along it to stabilize it. (The female threads are on the inside)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - duckmilk


End result looks like you got it cleaned nicely. Yeah, gonna need to reapproximate the pieces to get it working right.


----------



## Keebler1

Kenny you ever think about putting a price to build one of your 2×72 for us peons who don't want to make our own?


----------



## HokieKen

Nope. It would cost as much as one available already. Too much time involved to be able tmake them cheaply.


----------



## duckmilk

> End result looks like you got it cleaned nicely. Yeah, gonna need to reapproximate the pieces to get it working right.
> 
> - therealSteveN


It works fine Steve, I just want to reinforce it so it doesn't break more in the future.

Called all my local buddies and only one has a mig welder but won't be home till Oct. I'm going to go shopping for one and learn to use it. I've welded before but no real instruction, so this will just be practice till I can figure out the machine. Got lots of scrap to practice with, maybe try to make something useful.


----------



## Lazyman

> Good luck Ryan. The most critical thing about tracking is that all the wheels must line up with each other to work. Use a straight edge and check the alignment on both the tops and bottoms of each wheel with another one.
> 
> - duckmilk


I'll bet we spent more than an hour with the straight edge before we finally locked everything down.


----------



## duckmilk

Yes, thanks again Nathan for the help, your reward is waiting for you.


----------



## duckmilk

Holy crap, welders are more expensive than I thought.


----------



## Keebler1

Have you looked at harbor freight. Last time i looked they seemed reasonable


----------



## HokieKen

Here's a few pics of my rig Ryan.


----------



## Keebler1

What are yalls thoughts on the house made 2×72 vs the one duck got?


----------



## pottz

well ive been looking at one myself but no way im making one.kennys looks pretty damn well made.but hey he's a machinest too !


----------



## HokieKen

You got more money or time Keebler? Building it will save money but costs time. Plus Duck can buy plug and play accessories for his. I have to buy them then modify them to fit mine.


----------



## pottz

> Have you looked at harbor freight. Last time i looked they seemed reasonable
> 
> - Keebler1


yeah just took a look.at 695.00 looks to be a good deal ?


----------



## HokieKen

I have a HF wire welder. I think it was around $200 back when they had the 25% coupons.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

if you get a welder from HF i would get the green one i think its called titanium :<))))
let the black sit there


----------



## duckmilk

Kenny's grinder is well built, as I knew it would be, but yes, with the time, buying bolts, washers, nuts, drilling the holes, etc., it will take a lot of time. I wanted mine to use for a project coming up soon so I pulled the trigger. The frame is all welded and solid and I couldn't be happier with it for my uses, and I have found (like Kenny) it has a lot more uses than I imagined.

$695 is more than I need. I checked welder prices over a year ago and they have gone up over $100, as has everything else. Gonna get one anyway cause I have need for one on occasion, which I have denied for too long. Don't need anything big, just a simple one, won't use it often.


----------



## duckmilk

> if you get a welder from HF i would get the green one i think its called titanium :<))))
> let the black sit there
> 
> - GR8HUNTER


Thanks Tony, I looked at that one already, I want a little more functionality than that. There would come a situation where I would think "I shoulda gone bigger". ;-P


----------



## pottz

> if you get a welder from HF i would get the green one i think its called titanium :<))))
> let the black sit there
> 
> - GR8HUNTER
> 
> Thanks Tony, I looked at that one already, I want a little more functionality than that. There would come a situation where I would think "I shoulda gone bigger". ;-P
> 
> - duckmilk


yeah for your needs duck that welder is way too whimpy and you'll regret it.go big or go home !


----------



## Lazyman

I would keep my eyes open for a used welder on craigslist or facebook marketplace. You will occasionally see new in box ones for half price because someone bought it and never used it.


----------



## therealSteveN

> Here's a few pics of my rig Ryan.
> 
> - HokieKen


Dayummm I thought Duck's rig looked like a big badazz tool, that thing has industrial parts on it. That big star knob is for something bigger than a house. If that belt went outside I'd expect a steam engine the size of a locomotive to be sitting there. How much power does it hook to?


----------



## therealSteveN

Duck, for my money, and especially if you get to using it, which is a possibility, it can be addictive, and with the farm you probably could use one to fix all types of maintenance issues. Getting a Sanborn, Hobart or something better known is going to net you a lot more tool than something from HF. The duty times on their tools suck. I wouldn't even look at anything that requires less than a 50 amp line. Also look at stick welders. Wire feeders have more of a learning curve. Plus I can always find a stick to do any kind of work, and plenty of charts to lead the way as to what is right for the job. I tried a wire feeder years ago, and all the wire makers act like their wire does anything, which was a lot of my problems with it. With the proper stick, I can weld most metals, and I am NOT a welder., though when I was younger I thought hard about going to Hobarts welding school, would have been 1/2 hour drive.



> I would keep my eyes open for a used welder on craigslist or facebook marketplace. You will occasionally see new in box ones for half price because someone bought it and never used it.
> 
> - Lazyman


My favorite advice on welders, and Leigh DT jigs, as well as a variety of other tools.


----------



## RichT

> I would keep my eyes open for a used welder on craigslist or facebook marketplace. You will occasionally see new in box ones for half price because someone bought it and never used it.
> 
> - Lazyman
> 
> My favorite advice on welders, and Leigh DT jigs, as well as a variety of other tools.
> 
> - therealSteveN


You won't be seeing my Leigh jig there. I've been using it for over 20 years to build some pretty decent furniture and cabinetry. You even posted a glowing comment about the mesquite table as I recall.


----------



## RyanGi

Wow Ken! That is something! Nicely done.


----------



## HokieKen

> Dayummm I thought Duck s rig looked like a big badazz tool, that thing has industrial parts on it. That big star knob is for something bigger than a house. If that belt went outside I d expect a steam engine the size of a locomotive to be sitting there. How much power does it hook to?
> 
> - therealSteveN


It's driven by a 2hp 3 phase Baldor and a VFD. The star knobs were pillaged from an old tablesaw fence  I'm sure mine is roughly the same size as Duck's since they use the same size belts. My pictures just make it look bigger ;-p



> Kenny s grinder is well built, as I knew it would be, but yes, with the time, buying bolts, washers, nuts, drilling the holes, etc., it will take a lot of time….
> 
> - duckmilk


I didn't even think to mention the cost of hardware but yes, that's another hefty add to the cost. I had it all on-hand so it wasn't an expense for me but it certainly could be.

I enjoyed building mine and I'm very happy with it's performance. BUT, if you don't want to build it just because you want to build it, I always recommend just buying one. Budget-wise, you can build one cheaper but factor in your time and all the possible headaches and maybe not so much. I set out with a goal to spend <$250 to build one and I came in just under the line not counting the motor and VFD. But, like I said, there's probably another $50 worth of hardware there I didn't include in my costs.

If mine were to be stolen tomorrow, I wouldn't build again I don't think. I'd look at Origin Blade Makers and Reeder first I think. There are lots of others but I know people that have grinders from both of these small, US companies and they always get rave reviews.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

sorry i posted wrong one *HERE IT IS * IMMA NOOB :<)))))))))


----------



## HokieKen

> Wow Ken! That is something! Nicely done.
> 
> - RyanGi


Thanks Ryan  I measured last night and updated my drawing to have the dimensions I actually ended up with on mine. If you compare the drawing and the pics of the final product, you'll notice some differences in the bracing plates and their locations. I don't recall exactly why I made the changes other than probably trying to minimize material costs.

I used this D Plate assembly from OBM for mine and this drive wheel. I'm pretty sure my tracking wheel came from them as well but I don't see it on their site any more. Maybe I got it somewhere else? But mine is larger than the ones they sell now. Mine has a 4" tracking wheel and it looks like the ones they sell now are 3". Which I don't see any problem with a 3" wheel but something would have to be adjusted to accommodate a smaller wheel.

If you're considering welding a steel grinder, this is a good read with some really detailed information. My design is largely based on his. The biggest problem I had with his (which is an issue he addresses) is the welded steel tubing. The telescoping just isn't consistent and the weld seams are a PITA to deal with. If one were skilled in welding Aluminum, I think following his design but with Aluminum tubing instead of steel would be a really nice design with less cost and time than mine.

If you really want to get one done cheap but without a lot of versatility, here's another one the same guy built.

And here's a bolt-together build of a steel design.


----------



## Lazyman

Kenny, did you buy the wheels or machine them yourself?


----------



## RyanGi

> Wow Ken! That is something! Nicely done.
> 
> - RyanGi
> 
> Thanks Ryan  I measured last night and updated my drawing to have the dimensions I actually ended up with on mine. If you compare the drawing and the pics of the final product, you ll notice some differences in the bracing plates and their locations. I don t recall exactly why I made the changes other than probably trying to minimize material costs.
> 
> I used this D Plate assembly from OBM for mine and this drive wheel. I m pretty sure my tracking wheel came from them as well but I don t see it on their site any more. Maybe I got it somewhere else? But mine is larger than the ones they sell now. Mine has a 4" tracking wheel and it looks like the ones they sell now are 3". Which I don t see any problem with a 3" wheel but something would have to be adjusted to accommodate a smaller wheel.
> 
> If you re considering welding a steel grinder, this is a good read with some really detailed information. My design is largely based on his. The biggest problem I had with his (which is an issue he addresses) is the welded steel tubing. The telescoping just isn t consistent and the weld seams are a PITA to deal with. If one were skilled in welding Aluminum, I think following his design but with Aluminum tubing instead of steel would be a really nice design with less cost and time than mine.
> 
> If you really want to get one done cheap but without a lot of versatility, here s another one the same guy built.
> 
> And here s a bolt-together build of a steel design.
> 
> - HokieKen


Yeah, these are all the things going through my head. I was thinking I might buy the whole D/platen assembly along with the tool arm and then try to size the tubes for the body to that, and if I can't make it work out I could just buy the 'short chassis' from OBM. It would end up costing me a little more to do it that way but I'd get the chance to bold at least part of it myself. I dunno.

What VFD did you use? Does it work on any brushes motor?


----------



## HokieKen

> Kenny, did you buy the wheels or machine them yourself?
> 
> - Lazyman


I bought them. Something that large is pushing the limits of my small lathe and the ones from OBM aren't a lot more expensive than a chunk of Aluminum big enough to make them from.


----------



## HokieKen

> ...
> 
> What VFD did you use? Does it work on any brushes motor?
> 
> - RyanGi


I have this one on my grinder. So far so good. I have it in a sealed enclosure and have the extension cable and control panel mounted on top of the enclosure cover. I have another one from the same company that powers the two motors on my milling machine too and I've been very happy with the value of both of them. It will only work with 3 phase asynchronous AC motor 200-250V. So no brushless motor.


----------



## RyanGi

I only have single phase, so does it matter if I just use a rheostat for the grinder?


----------



## HokieKen

Depends on your motor Ryan. I also only have single phase power but the vfd takes 230V single phase and converts it to 230V 3 phase output. The motor speed is controlled by varying the frequency of the output signal. A rheostat won't work on an AC induction motor but *may* on a DC motor. It's all very dependent on the exact type of motor you have.


----------



## RyanGi

Hmmm….balls…my failure to understand the depths of electricity and electric motors is once again biting me…
I know I've got a spare 3/4hp DC motor somewhere in the shop. What do I need to look for on the plate to know if I can run a VFD on it?


----------



## Lazyman

DC motors often use Pulse Width or Duration Modulation (PWM or PDM) for variable speed control. I think that PWM and PDM basically pulses the power to achieve the desired speed. The faster or longer it pulses the faster it goes. They are often much cheaper than VFDs but you have to look at (and understand) the specs to determine if they are suitable for your motor.

3/4hp is going to be marginal at best for a 72" belt grinder. You may find that it is way too easy to bog down. If you want to use less than 1HP , you will want to make a grinder for a smaller belt such as 48".


----------



## RyanGi

I appreciate the info…anyone have a line on a reasonably less expensive 1hp motor? Variable speed would be preferred…


----------



## EricFai

The last motor I ordered was through Grainger, a Dayton dual voltage and reversible. Arrived within a few days of placing the order.


----------



## RyanGi

Damn…that's not cheap…ok…that might change some things here…


----------



## bigblockyeti

> I appreciate the info…anyone have a line on a reasonably less expensive 1hp motor? Variable speed would be preferred…
> 
> - RyanGi


If you can find your motor, post a picture here of the data plate on the side of it, there's plenty of people here that can help you determine if it can be made to work.


----------



## HokieKen

> I appreciate the info…anyone have a line on a reasonably less expensive 1hp motor? Variable speed would be preferred…
> 
> - RyanGi
> 
> If you can find your motor, post a picture here of the data plate on the side of it, there s plenty of people here that can help you determine if it can be made to work.
> 
> - bigblockyeti


+1. There's not a single good answer. Depends on voltage, winding type, brushed vs brushless. FWIW, I watched Ebay for a while and ended up with my 2 hp Baldor for less than $100 shipped. 3 phase motors can be had relatively cheaply because people can't run them at home without a RPC or VFD. DC motors are a good option too though. Just need a proper transformer, rectifier and speed controller for it. That can often be found all bundled together in a single control box.


----------



## Keebler1

OBM has a setup for 1hp 110v. Anyone know if I can put a speed control on that? The one with the vfd is more expensive but dont mind spending for it if i decide to get one if need be


----------



## HokieKen

Here is a pretty good deal on an open box motor that would work well with a VFD for a grinder.



> OBM has a setup for 1hp 110v. Anyone know if I can put a speed control on that? The one with the vfd is more expensive but dont mind spending for it if i decide to get one if need be
> 
> - Keebler1


It's unlikely you can use a speed controller on a 115V motor. And I wouldn't have a grinder without variable speed.


----------



## therealSteveN

I have a 1 1/2 Hp Baldor, 1725 RPM that I have always thought about making a 12" disc sander with. Might could buy that HF 12" deal, and make a 2" spinner belt. It would give me a chance to do some welding. This motor is 110. Anyone think it would be an issue to use a plug in rheostat type speed controller?

Motor plate










I have this controller, and use it frequently on an old set RPM router that pulls 15amps

The motor has a real quick bump, that is probably close to maxing this switch, but if I start it on OFF, and switch it on once it levels off, what cho think???


----------



## HokieKen

You can't control the speed of that motor with that kind of controller. DC or universal motors (what your router has) speed is based on current. So you can change the speed by varying the resistance. An AC wound motor's speed (the motor in your picture) is based on frequency. So the frequency of 60 Hz which is what comes from your service results in the rated speed of 1725 rpm. If you want to run it slower, you have to alter the frequency.


----------



## RyanGi

> You can t control the speed of that motor with that kind of controller. DC or universal motors (what your router has) speed is based on current. So you can change the speed by varying the resistance. An AC wound motor s speed (the motor in your picture) is based on frequency. So the frequency of 60 Hz which is what comes from your service results in the rated speed of 1725 rpm. If you want to run it slower, you have to alter the frequency.
> 
> - HokieKen


Following that logic (since I don't know much about this at all), you're using a VFD to alter the frequency with with which each phase is providing power, and that's what lowers the speed, yes? And that doesn't work with a DC motor, because the current would remain the same, just at a different frequency, correct?


----------



## therealSteveN

AC DC whatevah….. 

So which is the motor, AC? I thought this controller was/is AC. "ALL-CARB Router Fan Electric Motor Rheostat Variable Speed Controller AC 1500W / 120V / 15A"


----------



## EricFai

Ryan, just remember you get what you pay for. As for speed controll you could also look into the drive pully size and the pully driving the belt. Example is with a drill press, the drive has three different sizes and the shaft running the press has three or sizes. Depending on where the belt is on the pully configuration determines the speed. You would have to research the pully size to see what the ratio is.


----------



## Lazyman

> AC DC whatevah…..
> 
> So which is the motor, AC? I thought this controller was/is AC. "ALL-CARB Router Fan Electric Motor Rheostat Variable Speed Controller AC 1500W / 120V / 15A"
> 
> - therealSteveN


I think that controller just varies the voltage without changing the frequency so your induction motor will try to run at full speed but with less power. Unless it starts at full power so the capacitor can kick it off, it probably won't start at all and may just sit there and burn itself out.


----------



## RyanGi

> Ryan, just remember you get what you pay for. As for speed controll you could also look into the drive pully size and the pully driving the belt. Example is with a drill press, the drive has three different sizes and the shaft running the press has three or sizes. Depending on where the belt is on the pully configuration determines the speed. You would have to research the pully size to see what the ratio is.
> 
> - Eric


Yeah, I thought abou that too. I'm tight on space, so that might be an issue. And I do believe in you get what you pay for. We'll see.


----------



## splintergroup

Yep, smells like an induction motor.

One way to get a rough idea is to look at the RPMs

60 cycle line means a 1-pole motor will spin at 60 rev per second or 3600 RPM.
A two pole motor will be 1/2 that (1800 RPM)
3 pole = 1/3 or 1200 RPM etc.

Induction motors have "slip" in that the rotor (armature) lags behind the stator (windings in the case) by about 5% each revolution. This makes the RMPs 5% less than the theoretical 3600, 1800, 1200.

Your motor is 1800 - 5% or 1715 RPM but just call it 1725.

You'll probably never see an RPM listed on a brushed motor except for maybe a no-load speed which will be quite high.

Induction motors have a fairly constant speed since they fight to stay in sync with the input frequency. Overload the motor and its speed will collapse and stall.

Universal or brushed mortors will change speed depending on the load. Torque is proportional to current so with a fixed current, changing the load (required torque) causes the speed to drop. Think of a shop vac with the hose being plugged then open.
A brushed motor (i.e. router) needs an external speed regulator to keep speed constant. An induction motor needs a constant frequency for constant speed (hopefully maintained by your friendly electricity supplier).

Only way to vary the speed is to vary the frequency, hence the VFD.

Sorry for the rambling, I'm bored 8^)


----------



## EricFai

I worked industrial maintenance years ago, and we used the Dayton and Baldor motors in the plant. I never did figure out the ladder logic stuff for programing. There were times we called in the resident expert when the machine started acting up and when we could not figure it out.


----------



## EricFai

Guess I still have a week yet to see if I'm getting in on this one.


----------



## therealSteveN

All I know for sure is I have had that motor sitting around forever looking for something to do with it. Thing purrs right along, but selling it is a local only. I'll have to look at similar motors, and try to come up with a price to ask for it. Way too heavy to ship it. I can see 500 to 1000 bux for shipping based on what a few pounds cost for the beer swap. I've never seen it get cheaper by adding weight.


----------



## HokieKen

It's a whole rabbit hole to go down if you really want to understand electric motors and all the different variations. Splintergroup summed it up pretty good.

Think of it like this - and AC motor works by 3 people sitting in a circle each with a magnet. There's a pointer in the center that points to whichever magnet is closest. So person 1 moves his magnet close and the pointer points at him. Then person 2 moves his closer wile person 1 moves his away and the pointer swings to person 2. Then person 3 moves their magnet close as person 2 moves theirs away and the pointer swings to them. And on and on. So the faster the 3 people move their magnets in and out, the faster the pointer swings. Doesn't really matter how strong the magnets are as long as they're all the same and strong enough to attract the pointer from the prescribed distance.

Clear as mud?


----------



## splintergroup

A buddy gave me a 2HP/220V hot tub pump motor, Has a long and skinny profile which makes it more useful for some future projects.
Keep your eye out for a tread mill in the trash or other often trashed devices that can have decent motors!


----------



## splintergroup

> It s a whole rabbit hole to go down if you really want to understand electric motors and all the different variations. Splintergroup summed it up pretty good.
> 
> Think of it like this - and AC motor works by 3 people sitting in a circle each with a magnet. There s a pointer in the center that points to whichever magnet is closest. So person 1 moves his magnet close and the pointer points at him. Then person 2 moves his closer wile person 1 moves his away and the pointer swings to person 2. Then person 3 moves their magnet close as person 2 moves theirs away and the pointer swings to them. And on and on. So the faster the 3 people move their magnets in and out, the faster the pointer swings. Doesn t really matter how strong the magnets are as long as they re all the same and strong enough to attract the pointer from the prescribed distance.
> 
> Clear as mud?
> 
> - HokieKen


Sounds like action at a dive bar full of drunk college students 9^)


----------



## RyanGi

So looking more and more at this, OBM's motor and VFD price really isn't marked up much if at all. Might save a bit with used parts, but then you don't know what you're getting…sigh…


----------



## therealSteveN

Have any of you folks that have a VFD actually asked you insurance agent if you are covered in case of a fire, and loss? I ask because my last 2 agents have told me NO. Falls somewhere into what insurance speak calls NON-standard electrical wiring in a home. It apparently has different rules in Commercial, and Agricultural settings.

I do know our last place was zoned Res, Ag, Comm, and we had 3 phase at the road, just cost a few bux to bring it back, and hookup was on you, but had to be done with a licensed electrician. Current place is res only, and no 3 phase available. It's been here where I got the no's from Insurance.

2 different companies saying no. If it was me even if they said yes, you are ok, I'd want it in writing.

Anyhow I'll be a VFD free zone, so I'm guessing a 1' x 30, 110 deal is what I'll have to work with. Those of you using one of them, is it workable?


----------



## duckmilk

> Motor plate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - therealSteveN


That motor plate reads 110 / 230 volts. It can be wired for 220 volts.


----------



## Lazyman

My Laguna lathe has a VFD to provide variable speed control using a 3 phase motor. It is sold as consumer tool and plugs into a standard 220v outlet so I do not see that being an issue. For a DIY setup, I would think that as long as you get a UL rated VFD, it should not matter.


----------



## duckmilk

Actually, looking closer at that plate, I believe it reads 115/230


----------



## therealSteveN

> My Laguna lathe has a VFD to provide variable speed control using a 3 phase motor. It is sold as consumer tool and plugs into a standard 220v outlet so I do not see that being an issue. For a DIY setup, I would think that as long as you get a UL rated VFD, it should not matter.
> 
> - Lazyman


I think deep down it's mostly about who did the hookup, and was a license involved. I think Insurance companies look for ways to keep your money, and not pay. The stuff like your lathe gets a pass, this and the disconnect between home and biz and agriculture tells me it's about you jumping through the right hoops.


----------



## therealSteveN

> Actually, looking closer at that plate, I believe it reads 115/230
> 
> - duckmilk


Yeah, same as 110, 220 to us non electrical folks.


----------



## DavePolaschek

> Anyhow I'll be a VFD free zone, so I'm guessing a 1' x 30, 110 deal is what I'll have to work with. Those of you using one of them, is it workable?


Dude, I grind knives on the same bench grinder I use for sharpening my turning tools and also use to put a burr on card scrapers.

Keep a bucket of water nearby so you don't burn the metal and pay attention to what you're doing and you'll be fine, especially for hobby work.

I was going to get a 1×30 at Harbor Freight, but they were out of stock on the really cheap one, then I needed back surgery. I might get one once I'm back in action, but for this swap, I figure the grinder will be fine.


----------



## bigblockyeti

> AC DC whatevah…..
> 
> So which is the motor, AC? I thought this controller was/is AC. "ALL-CARB Router Fan Electric Motor Rheostat Variable Speed Controller AC 1500W / 120V / 15A"
> 
> - therealSteveN


It'll probably work, just be sure to make a video and post a link.


----------



## duckmilk

> AC DC whatevah…..
> 
> So which is the motor, AC? I thought this controller was/is AC. "ALL-CARB Router Fan Electric Motor Rheostat Variable Speed Controller AC 1500W / 120V / 15A"
> 
> - therealSteveN
> 
> It ll probably work, just be sure to make a video and post a link.
> 
> - bigblockyeti


In the Q&A that question was asked about using it for a belt grinder, second answer was it won't work well when you put torque on the tool you need a VFD.


----------



## duckmilk

> A buddy gave me a 2HP/220V hot tub pump motor, Has a long and skinny profile which makes it more useful for some future projects.
> Keep your eye out for a tread mill in the trash or other often trashed devices that can have decent motors!
> 
> - splintergroup


+1 Tread mill motors are VS.


----------



## HokieKen

I made several knives with a 1×30 before I built my big boy. It takes a little longer but she'll get ya there.


----------



## therealSteveN

I think for my purposes replacing my 6×48 belt 9 disc is going to give me more use. I'm gonna patch up the old Sears unit, and sell it off, and probably start out with the HF 6×48 x 9 unit. I've got a 2 head grinder that I do lawn mower blades, and work knives with, back when I still had a Shopsmith I did lathe tools on it too. I may just do what Dave is doing, for the scant knife stuff I may do. Pretty soon I'll have more types of sanders than fingers and toes.

Did someone say slippery slope ahead….


----------



## Keebler1

What do yall think about this grinder? Says it takes a 2×72 belt


----------



## therealSteveN

Keebs no linkie.


----------



## Keebler1

This grinder my bad.


----------



## Lazyman

No experience with that grinder but that price is too good to be true. I suspect that is a scam site that will charge you and then either ship you nothing or something that is not what you ordered, not to mention that you will likely see other unauthorized charges on your credit card in the near future.


----------



## Keebler1

Thought it was too good of a price. Thanks for the heads up Nathan


----------



## HokieKen

Yeah, I'd have ordered 4 or 5 at that price! I think a machine like that would be great for finishing blades and for sharpening but I'd want to make sure the grinder had enough uumph. I'd also much prefer it to be variable speed. For wood, a single speed is usually tolerable but when you're grinding metal, variable speed is pretty much a necessity IMHO.


----------



## Keebler1

Thats a $700 grinder so not worth it


----------



## GR8HUNTER

*SCAM JOB :<((((((((*


----------



## duckmilk

Yeah Keebler, someone bought that and either ruined it or just wants to get rid of it. I looked at that one on the Grizzly site and decided it would take too many modifications for my "wants". Variable speed is one of the priorities for me, especially now that I know what I use the most. That model also uses their buffer motor while I wanted a grinding wheel on the other side.


----------



## therealSteveN

> No experience with that grinder but that price is too good to be true. I suspect that is a scam site that will charge you and then either ship you nothing or something that is not what you ordered, not to mention that you will likely see other unauthorized charges on your credit card in the near future.
> 
> - Lazyman


Plus the item is under 50 bux, and it says free shipping on orders OVER 59 bux, so if they are legit, they probably charge 800 to ship. Doesn't pass the smell test, it's like a seafood counter that reeks of rotting fish, you just walk on by.


----------



## HokieKen

Alright I'm pretty sure I'm gonna join up on this one. I've been testing some techniques out on some of my own blades and the results seem good. So I think I'll batch out some Christmas gifts and do the swap in one shot 

Now, out of curiosity, how many would be interested in carving? And if so, would you be more interested in something for whittling/spooncarving/bushcraft or something for chip/detail carving?


----------



## pottz

not a carver myself,actually never even attempted it.not one of my talents im afraid.


----------



## Lazyman

Not sure that I am going to get my proof of concept done in time to feel comfortable joining this one. It will definitely stretch my skill level and I am afraid it might not wind up being something I would want to send to someone else. We'll see. It will depend upon how well my chair refinishing that I have put off most of the summer goes.

Kenny, carving and whittling tools would be an excellent thing to get. Even if you are not a carver, I use knives like that all the time in the shop.

Pottz, I highly recommend checking out Mary May's free online beginner relief carving videos. You can work through them with about 3 carving tools and some basswood boards. The videos are setup so that you can follow along and pause while you follow her instructions. When you are done with each video, you will have carved the same thing she just demoed. After completing all 8 or 9 videos, I was able to find images online to carve and not be embarrassed for others to see them. I was surprised how easy it was to turn out decent carvings with just a basic knowledge and got so obsessed with it after watching her videos that I gave myself tendonitis from carving.


----------



## HokieKen

If anyone has even a passing interest in carving functional stuff, do some googling and watch some YouTubes on spoon and kuksa carving 

I agree with Nathan about relief carving too but I won't be sending out any of those type tools in this swap …


----------



## pottz

https://a.co/d/2JIBkft

just bought this jet sander grinder.ordered through one of our vendors for 775.00. by buying it through our company they will take it out of my pay check before taxes,and i dont pay sales tax.so it will end up around 550.00. amazon has it for 885.00 or about 975.00 with tax. i love jet tools and have never had an issue with any i have.


----------



## Keebler1

Good deal Pottz


----------



## therealSteveN

> Alright I m pretty sure I m gonna join up on this one. I ve been testing some techniques out on some of my own blades and the results seem good. So I think I ll batch out some Christmas gifts and do the swap in one shot
> 
> Now, out of curiosity, how many would be interested in carving? And if so, would you be more interested in something for whittling/spooncarving/bushcraft or something for chip/detail carving?
> 
> - HokieKen


I absolutely LOVE to carve wood. 










I know it's kind of like when someone with a CNC says….... But as we know, that's all pretty mainstream now.


----------



## duckmilk

> https://a.co/d/2JIBkft
> 
> just bought this jet sander grinder.ordered through one of our vendors for 775.00. by buying it through our company they will take it out of my pay check before taxes,and i dont pay sales tax.so it will end up around 550.00. amazon has it for 885.00 or about 975.00 with tax. i love jet tools and have never had an issue with any i have.
> 
> - pottz


Pottz, is it too late to change your order? This one is just a few dollars more and is variable speed.


----------



## therealSteveN

Larry is that with a speed changer? Not seeing that if it is?

I ran across this, 30 days with free returns. I send stuff back all the time  Heck they offer, I accept.

Looking at it, either it's just too cheap to work, or the motor is tooo weakkkk meh. Either of those will start the return process, but hey Vari speed, on a 1.2" belt. Looks like the lowball winner, or at least trial offer.


----------



## therealSteveN

double tap


----------



## duckmilk

That's a mini grinder Steve, the dimensions are pretty small.


----------



## pottz

> https://a.co/d/2JIBkft
> 
> just bought this jet sander grinder.ordered through one of our vendors for 775.00. by buying it through our company they will take it out of my pay check before taxes,and i dont pay sales tax.so it will end up around 550.00. amazon has it for 885.00 or about 975.00 with tax. i love jet tools and have never had an issue with any i have.
> 
> - pottz
> 
> Pottz, is it too late to change your order? This one is just a few dollars more and is variable speed.
> 
> - duckmilk


i think i still can,i doubt it has shipped yet.didn't see that one.


----------



## pottz

> That s a mini grinder Steve, the dimensions are pretty small.
> 
> - duckmilk


yeah i saw that,way too small.plus i already have a mini with 1"x 30" belt and 5" disc i use for small things.


----------



## HokieKen

> Larry is that with a speed changer? Not seeing that if it is?
> 
> I ran across this, 30 days with free returns. I send stuff back all the time  Heck they offer, I accept.
> 
> Looking at it, either it s just too cheap to work, or the motor is tooo weakkkk meh. Either of those will start the return process, but hey Vari speed, on a 1.2" belt. Looks like the lowball winner, or at least trial offer.
> 
> - therealSteveN


Better off with a 1×30 IMO. Belt length plays a big role in performance and abrasive longevity. 21" belts are too short and will run too hot IMHO. 1×30 is pushing it but it's better than 21. Not to say that scaled down grinder would be useless, just that for the money I think I'd opt for the other.


----------



## pottz

duck thanks for tipping me about the VS model i was able to get it changed. my sales rep even got the price dropped to 748.00. win win ! funny thing is they had actually given me the vs price by mistake.


----------



## duckmilk

Good news! You'll like the VS a lot better. When it shows up, be prepared to have a friend help you get it home. It comes on a wooder pallet inside a foam padded heavy cardboard box. The machine weighs 78 lbs.


----------



## pottz

> Good news! You ll like the VS a lot better. When it shows up, be prepared to have a friend help you get it home. It comes on a wooder pallet inside a foam padded heavy cardboard box. The machine weighs 78 lbs.
> 
> - duckmilk


have you had one ?


----------



## DavePolaschek

Whew! Another day with an afternoon session in the shop. Working on a project which will have three colors of milk paint, with two coats of each, and then some "distressing" to show through the lower colors. Persimmon (an orange) over Terra Cotta (a brick red), over Black Iron (looks like cast iron). Should be pretty, and even if its not, it'll be orange.

Any suggestions for good "distressing" tools? I'm thinking stainless wire brush and maybe some 60 grit sandpaper applied by hand, but I'm open to other suggestions.










This is the Terra Cotta over Black Iron, with spots where the tung oil on the inside changed the color on the outside a little. Another effect I hadn't counted on.

Also working on a sign for the side door of the house. First of three or four coats of tung oil went on today over Plum milk paint in the carved letters and on the edges.










Gotta clear these so I can start working on a knife or two.


----------



## Keebler1

Pottz did I read correctly you are taking grinder orders from fellow swappers and hand delivering them to us….


----------



## Lazyman

Dang wrong thread again.


----------



## pottz

> Pottz did I read correctly you are taking grinder orders from fellow swappers and hand delivering them to us….
> 
> - Keebler1


ha ha, only for certain elite jocks !


----------



## pottz

> Dang wrong thread again.
> 
> - Lazyman


your as bad as i am.sometimes when im jumping back and forth between 2 or 3 threads ill mix em up.probably the old timers kickin in ;-))


----------



## duckmilk

> have you had one ?
> 
> - pottz


Yes, I ordered the same one and tried it out, but decided the belt grinder part wasn't what I really wanted, so I sent it back, on the same pallet and in the same box.

Don't get me wrong, I loved the Jet motor, it was just the configuration of the belt part. I would have had to remove the covering over the tracking wheel to be able to grind curves, and the back shield for slack grinding to get what I wanted. I wish I had spent the extra bucks for the Jet grinder alone and added the OBM chassis to it instead of being cheap and going with the Grizzly motor.
But, that's just me and my plans for it.


----------



## pottz

ok sounds good.for me not a big knife maker ill use it for many more things.but hell for the price and the discounts ill get through our company i couldn't pass it up.thanks again duck !


----------



## duckmilk

That's good, you'll love the vs motor, I guarantee it (as the men's warehouse guy used to say on tv).


----------



## pottz

> That s good, you ll love the vs motor, I guarantee it (as the men s warehouse guy used to say on tv).
> 
> - duckmilk


LMAO !!!


----------



## HokieKen

> have you had one ?
> 
> - pottz
> 
> Yes, I ordered the same one and tried it out, but decided the belt grinder part wasn t what I really wanted, so I sent it back, on the same pallet and in the same box.
> 
> Don t get me wrong, I loved the Jet motor, it was just the configuration of the belt part. I would have had to remove the covering over the tracking wheel to be able to grind curves, and the back shield for slack grinding to get what I wanted. I wish I had spent the extra bucks for the Jet grinder alone and added the OBM chassis to it instead of being cheap and going with the Grizzly motor.
> But, that s just me and my plans for it.
> 
> - duckmilk


Getting that belt guard off there would be job#1 when it got to my shop pottz. The safety nazis reduce the utility of grinders and sanders by about 30% with all the guards. You won't find a belt or a wheel with a guard over it in my shop. Not only does it make it less useful, in a lot of cases I think the guards are more of a safety hazard than what they cover. Would you rather a spinning grinder wheel hit your finger or get said finger wedged between the spinning grinding wheel and a bent steel guard? Ugh. Sorry, pet peeve ;-) I really would shed all the "safety"components as soon as you unpack that thing though.


----------



## pottz

i hear kenny.all my grinders i have are wide open. damn, finger between guard and belt…....not a pretty picture !!!!! gonna need a manicure for sure-lol !


----------



## therealSteveN

I don't have a strip roller, but I have a traditional 2 sided grinder motor, and each wheel has a guard over the wheel. The worst, well bloodiest shop injury I ever had was on the guard. To actually use the wheel, and realistically get anything bigger than a #2 pencil under it, you have to open the guard ALL the way, which essentially leaves the wheel totally exposed, as in NO GUARD at all.

I had been using it, and was walking around it with the safety shield flipped up. When up, it actually sticks out further than when it's down. So I walk by, something I do 100 times a day when I'm back there, and I had never even bumped anything. That &^%$&* guard slit my right arm open, and I was off to the races, got to my first aid stuff, and hands were so slick with blood I could hardly open it. (REMEMBER THAT, and plan for it when you are NOT bleeding) Anyhow finally got a tight dressing on it, and the blood stopped flowing. Didn't get stitches, but it took forever to heal. A few well placed whacks with the MINI sledge removed those guards.

Never a problem actually grinding, machine was turned off when it cut me.


----------



## pottz

damn thats a new one,a serious injury when the machine wasn't even running ! just shows how we need to be careful and aware of everything in our shops. good point well made trsn.


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## Keebler1

My first handle is turned and knife glued up. Need to sand now as I couldnt do it on the lathe. Will have to work on that on next handle. Hand sanding sucks


----------



## pottz

> My first handle is turned and knife glued up. Need to sand now as I couldnt do it on the lathe. Will have to work on that on next handle. Hand sanding sucks
> 
> - Keebler1


hey what the hell keebs everyone knows in the over achiever here!!! you tryin to challenge me ?


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## RyanGi

Not the faintest idea what I'm doing with this one, but that's never stopped me before. I'm in. Email sent.


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## HokieKen

Just sent my e-mail too. What the hell.

Ouch SteveN. I think I keep a bruise on my hip most of the time because I leave the rest on my Wolverine jig sticking out and catch it walking out the door.

Another note about grinders. Everyone probably knows you aren't supposed to use the sides of grinding wheels. And that's true (to an extent) because of how the abrasives are bonded they can't take the stress of heavy lateral pressure. But sometimes that flat face is just what you need. Like for lathe skews. I've been shaping and sharpening tools on grinders for 25+ years and have often used a light touch to grind a flat on the side of a wheel. And in 25 years I've never busted a wheel or had an injury. Light touchs and short concact times and you can use the sides. Don't wear a groove into the side though. You can't dress it very well and too much use on the side will eventually affect the balance and shape of the circumference.

Just thought I'd throw out a flat-gring alternative for those without a belt grinder ;-)


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## GR8HUNTER

now with Kenny in I'm going to have to step it up Kevin, Kenny don't want my name :<)))))))


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## RyanGi

Ken, I was doing the same thing on the sides of my wheels. I changed to a CBN wheel with side and now I don't cringe each time I do it!


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## HokieKen

Yeah CBN is a different animal


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## RyanGi

Night and day, to be sure…


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## HokieKen

Not exactly a teaser since this is my knife. But it may have some similarities to what I make for the swap…









Hoping to get the shaping and sanding finished today and start getting some finish on it. Looking forward to trying it out on a spoon.


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## therealSteveN

> . Hand sanding sucks
> 
> - Keebler1


Preaching to the choir Keebs.


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## bndawgs

Looks like a bent fork Kenny


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## splintergroup

Great tool to clean out the nose hairs and wipe out those Klingons orbiting Uranus.


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## pottz

> Great tool to clean out the nose hairs and wipe out those Klingons orbiting Uranus.
> 
> - splintergroup


TMI splint !


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## HokieKen

> . Hand sanding sucks
> 
> - Keebler1
> 
> Preaching to the choir Keebs.
> 
> - therealSteveN


Disagree. This is one of my favorite things to do on small projects.


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## HokieKen

Speaking of belt grinders…

I'm doing some shop cleanup today. Every year or two I do a purge and try to get rid of anything I haven't used since the last purge. And I haven't used this since the purge before last…









It's made several knives and remains a decent tool for sharpening them. But I have a handheld Worksharp knife grinder and my 2×72 so I can't fool myself into thinking I'll ever use this one again any longer.

It's a Rikon 1×30 belt and 5" disc. I'll include all the belts I have whichnis quite a few. $50 + shipping. Or I'll gladly consider trades. Not sure what it will cost to ship it but I *think* I could take it apart enough to fit in a large flat rate box if it came down to it.

*Edit to add:* If you're thinking about asking if I have the belt guard, see my post from earlier this morning ;-)


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## GR8HUNTER

mine if no one else wants it :<))))))


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## EricFai

I see Tony spoke up first, if not I'll put the check in the mail on Monday Kenny. Let me know.


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## HokieKen

Tony's first in the thread and first in my PMs so he's the proud new owner of a Rikon sander


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## EricFai

No problem, I figured he would get it.


----------



## pottz

> Speaking of belt grinders…
> 
> I'm doing some shop cleanup today. Every year or two I do a purge and try to get rid of anything I haven't used since the last purge. And I haven't used this since the purge before last…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's made several knives and remains a decent tool for sharpening them. But I have a handheld Worksharp knife grinder and my 2×72 so I can't fool myself into thinking I'll ever use this one again any longer.
> 
> It's a Rikon 1×30 belt and 5" disc. I'll include all the belts I have whichnis quite a few. $50 + shipping. Or I'll gladly consider trades. Not sure what it will cost to ship it but I *think* I could take it apart enough to fit in a large flat rate box if it came down to it.
> 
> *Edit to add:* If you're thinking about asking if I have the belt guard, see my post from earlier this morning ;-)
> 
> - HokieKen


now you wanna get rid of it ! i just bought that same one last year.i use it for small parts,love it.


----------



## pottz

> Tony's first in the thread and first in my PMs so he's the proud new owner of a Rikon sander
> 
> - HokieKen


good deal,tony needs to get back in the wood game. hey great time with the knife swap.


----------



## Keebler1

Kenny since you like hand sanding im gonna choose you as my recipient and you can have the fun of hand sanding the items lol


----------



## DavePolaschek

> Any suggestions for good "distressing" tools? I'm thinking stainless wire brush and maybe some 60 grit sandpaper applied by hand, but I'm open to other suggestions.


Well, I ended up going with a brass brush (scrubbed pretty hard in a few spots, but mostly just a light burnishing), then a handful of rocks from the driveway (just set them on the painted surface and bounced it up and down until I could see a few marks in the paint) I think I got a pretty good blend of colors.


----------



## pottz

> Kenny since you like hand sanding im gonna choose you as my recipient and you can have the fun of hand sanding the items lol
> 
> - Keebler1


hey not a bad idea,ill just send knife blanks and some wood and pins to make the handles.i think someone would enjoy getting a do it yourself kit ?


----------



## GR8HUNTER

SOME TEASERS PICS


















sorry Eric for buying my new sander :<))))))))) I dont have room for it but could not pass this dealio

Now A ? ? for knife makers can you buy color black 1/8 inch rod ?


----------



## Lazyman

Rod for pinning scales to a tang? We might need some hints about how it might be used.


----------



## HokieKen

You can buy Micarta rod Tony. It's not as strong as metal but for pinning scales that will be epoxied, it'll work.


----------



## DavePolaschek

> Now A ? ? for knife makers can you buy color black 1/8 inch rod ?


You could also get ebony dowels. Or katalox.


----------



## EricFai

Tony, no problem. I understand some us can't pass up a deal. I finally pulled the trigger on a DC. Rockler had there 1250 CFM on sale last week, 1.5 HP motor, bag and a remote included. Should arrive early in the week. The reviews I read seemed good, and within the price range for me. Now the fun part begins with the duct work, which it will support.


----------



## HokieKen

You can also get black delrin rods Tony. But I'm not sure how small you can find them.


----------



## HokieKen

I made (actually completed) not one, not two, but THREE knives today! And none are for the swap ;-) Today is the first one I can recall when I've had the entire day in the shop. Maybe the the first one of 2022. And I made good use of it!


----------



## Keebler1

Nice Kenny. Teaser pic some of these shavings are from swap projects


----------



## Keebler1

Kenny you asked about making carving knives for the swap. My opinion is go ahead. Not a lot of us are carvers but I know I have thought about trying it. I have a carving knife I believe DaveP made me in a swap in the garage. At some point I am gonna get some wood blocks and learn


----------



## pottz

> SOME TEASERS PICS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry Eric for buying my new sander :<))))))))) I dont have room for it but could not pass this dealio
> 
> Now A ? ? for knife makers can you buy color black 1/8 inch rod ?
> 
> - GR8HUNTER


tony it's very small you'll have room !


----------



## pottz

> I made (actually completed) not one, not two, but THREE knives today! And none are for the swap ;-) Today is the first one I can recall when I've had the entire day in the shop. Maybe the the first one of 2022. And I made good use of it!
> 
> - HokieKen


WOOOO HOOOOOO you go man !!!! 3. im impressed.ive got two kitchen knives im doing for my son that have been (in progress) for two months now.but thats for xmas so i got time.


----------



## pottz

> Nice Kenny. Teaser pic some of these shavings are from swap projects
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Keebler1


sorry but im not teased keebs….........funny huh !


----------



## HokieKen

I wanted to feel pretty so I made me a necklace 









The knife is one I made yesterday. Well, reground and handled anyway. It started life as as Mora 106. Here it is comapred to an unmodified 106:









The 106 tip is great for detail carving but the knife overall is too long and bulky to suit me. I also wanted to be able to take it on the go and the sheath it comes with isn't ideal for pocket transport.

So I ordered a blade blank, reground the blade and tang to suit my purposes and left the tip and cutting edge unmodified. Cut and shaped a handle from Zircote and made a kydex sheath. Total time invested is about 3 hours and I have a knife that's exactly what I want that I couldn't buy anywhere 










So what am I driveling on about? Just this: IMO that knife would be a great swap offering (even if it wasn't modified). And how much forging or heat treatment was required? Nary a dang bit. Mora sells blade blanks for several of their knives. And they're really affordable high quality blades. So that's a really good option for anyone trying to figure out what to make 

I had the foresight to take several pics when I was working on this one. So I'll try to post a blog of my process in the next week or so.


----------



## pottz

well ive got two under construction,if im lucky they will both make it to the finish line,i hope.


----------



## Keebler1

Kenny never made a sheath but have a knife that could use one. If I ship it out to you would you have time to make one for it? If so how much apporximately? I need to learn that but right now not sure I have enough time to make it look right. I am thinking about it as a swap item


----------



## Keebler1

Pottz I have 3 handles turned and glued up. Need to sand and finish one and cut the ends off 2. Only 2 more handles to go but I think I am gonna have to have a 3d printer for those. I would get Nathan to print them this week but I left my laptop at home


----------



## DavePolaschek

Keebs, making a sheath is pretty easy. The blue one I made for you was one of my first, and I just basically followed Mads' description of how to do it when he made a sheath for me. Its really pretty easy.


----------



## HokieKen

> Kenny never made a sheath but have a knife that could use one. If I ship it out to you would you have time to make one for it? If so how much apporximately? I need to learn that but right now not sure I have enough time to make it look right. I am thinking about it as a swap item
> 
> - Keebler1


I only do kydex formed and riveted Keebler. Haven't gotten around to getting the stuff and learning to do leather… yet. But if you want kydex, send it on and I'll get it done. Cost just depends on how big it is and what color/thickness kydex you want. And I have black and gunmetal rivets. If you want some other finish, that'll cost a bit too. But if you wanted just plain black with rivets that I already have and the blade is under 12" long, $10 should do it.


----------



## HokieKen

Tony, I cant PM pictures so I'm putting them here.

I disassembled the grinder a little to make packing better. When upu get it, all you have to do is mount the belt part using these three screws:









Then press the pulley on the shaft and put this screw and washer on the end of the shaft:








*^THAT SCREW IS A LEFT HAND THREAD.*

That whould get you in business. It's allnpacked up and ready to go


----------



## GR8HUNTER

sounds GR8 thanks :<))))))))))))))))))))


----------



## pottz

> Pottz I have 3 handles turned and glued up. Need to sand and finish one and cut the ends off 2. Only 2 more handles to go but I think I am gonna have to have a 3d printer for those. I would get Nathan to print them this week but I left my laptop at home
> 
> - Keebler1


i did a little more shaping on the two kitchen knives im making for my son.also worked on making the scales for a swap knife and did some work on a very special knife for the swap,if it turns out the way i hope.so far so good !


----------



## pottz

> Keebs, making a sheath is pretty easy. The blue one I made for you was one of my first, and I just basically followed Mads' description of how to do it when he made a sheath for me. Its really pretty easy.
> 
> - Dave Polaschek


man i dont know how i missed your project,i did post on mads though.


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## GR8HUNTER

i hope i did that right Kenny check and let me know :<)))))))))))


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## therealSteveN

> Keebs, making a sheath is pretty easy. The blue one I made for you was one of my first, and I just basically followed Mads' description of how to do it when he made a sheath for me. Its really pretty easy.
> 
> - Dave Polaschek


The post Mads did, and your follow up post with prior info from Mads are both treasure troves. Making a knife handle makes sense, making a sheath however is/was fuzzy science. Mads straight forward style made it so understandable. That is the "thing" about following these swap posts. much is just stuff, but occasionally there is a meaty nugget you can chew on for a while. Thanks for this meaty nugget Dave, and by extension Mads. Hats off to both you gents.

Shopping for hole puncher for thread holes, Darned if they don't really have most everything at Amazoo. Already have leather, needles, and heavy thread. Huh, who knew it was sooo easy. Is this one of those slippery slopes???


----------



## therealSteveN

Kenny the knives are looking fine. I've seen your past work, and some of them had sheathes, are you doing pretty much the same thing?


----------



## DavePolaschek

> Thanks for this meaty nugget Dave, and by extension Mads. Hats off to both you gents.


You're welcome! Glad it helps.



> Huh, who knew it was sooo easy. Is this one of those slippery slopes???


Could be. Once Tandy Leather gets your email address, you'll never have an empty inbox again. I've got about a quarter of a cow sitting in the shop waiting for various leather projects to percolate up on the list.


----------



## HokieKen

> Kenny the knives are looking fine. I ve seen your past work, and some of them had sheathes, are you doing pretty much the same thing?
> 
> - therealSteveN


Yep. I've never made any sheath other than Kydex. I make them all the same basic way the only difference is the carry method - if I put a chain through one of the rivets, it's a neck knife; if I attach a belt clip to the back, it's a belt knife; if I don't do either, it's a pocket knife ;-)

For anyone interested, Kydex is really versatile and really simple to work with. And the startup cost is pretty minimal. I use a toaster oven and heat gun to soften the material and my "press" is a couple of plywood scraps with some Harbor Freight floor mat glued to them. The only expense most folks here are likely to have is the Kydex itself and some rivets or screws and possibly tooling to set the rivets.

Here is a video from Walter Sorrels on making a Kydex sheath. My process is pretty much identical except he has a fancy oven and I have a toaster oven and his press is a lot nicer ;-)

As for belt clips, you can mold one into the sheath but it makes the molding process significantly more difficult. I prefer to attach one to the back after I've molded it. There are lots of options for different sizes and styles of clips. And if you plan it right, you can get one you can attach with the same rivets you already have then you don't have to contend with screw heads or screws coming loose over time.

You can also use 2-part epoxies that are geared towards plastics to bond the Kydex to itself or to a belt clip. I've never done it because I like the look of the rivets. But if you wanted something more compact and streamlined, it's a good option.

There ya go, way more than you asked for ;-)


----------



## pottz

pretty cool stuff kenny you taught me about something ive never heard of.


----------



## Lazyman

> Shopping for hole puncher for thread holes, Darned if they don t really have most everything at Amazoo. Already have leather, needles, and heavy thread. Huh, who knew it was sooo easy. Is this one of those slippery slopes???
> 
> - therealSteveN


I've seen them use lace chisels to punch the holes for stitching. The big punch you linked to is probably better suited for rivets.


----------



## duckmilk

Nathan is right, the leather punch makes holes too large for stitching. But, what Nathan linked to is a lacing chisel set. You would probably prefer stitching chisels since you already have the thread, however I don't see the need for a single prong. They make a smaller hole.
I've done a lot of leather work in the past. I checked the Tandy Leather site, their stuff is just a little more expensive but you can get exactly what you need and can choose what spacing you want between holes, 2, 3 or 4mm spacing. I've ordered from them several times. Choose a store closer to you.


----------



## bigblockyeti

I've used wire gauge drill bits and a dremel tool for making thread holes in leather, it's fast and the tool doesn't care how thick the leather is.


----------



## therealSteveN

> pretty cool stuff kenny you taught me about something ive never heard of.
> 
> - pottz


Same here. I think I'll lean more toward leather though. I've used it in the past, and to work it I think basic tools entry fee would be less. Only thing I have that he used is a heat gun. So I'd need to make up some kind of press, and buy a toaster oven, though those likely could be gotten at a garage sale, but getting to be the wrong time of year for those around here.


----------



## therealSteveN

> Shopping for hole puncher for thread holes, Darned if they don t really have most everything at Amazoo. Already have leather, needles, and heavy thread. Huh, who knew it was sooo easy. Is this one of those slippery slopes???
> 
> - therealSteveN
> 
> I ve seen them use lace chisels to punch the holes for stitching. The big punch you linked to is probably better suited for rivets.
> 
> - Lazyman


Yeah, I ordered that set you linked too. I was mostly linking the entire page, it was all leather tools. It just happened to have those plier type at the top. I read somewhere that they didn't work too well too. I also got a set of pins, that are solo punches for bigger holes for rope leather and such, they went from tiny, to almost 1/4". In the past my leather was for black powder stuff, and I wanted a slightly ragged look, so I just used an old awl to punch in holes. Looking for finer here. Plus I got a stitching handle with some needles, and thread.


----------



## therealSteveN

> Shopping for hole puncher for thread holes, Darned if they don t really have most everything at Amazoo. Already have leather, needles, and heavy thread. Huh, who knew it was sooo easy. Is this one of those slippery slopes???
> 
> - therealSteveN
> 
> I ve seen them use lace chisels to punch the holes for stitching. The big punch you linked to is probably better suited for rivets.
> 
> - Lazyman
> 
> Yeah, I ordered that set you linked too. I was mostly linking the entire page, it was all leather tools. It just happened to have those plier type at the top. I read somewhere that they didn't work too well too. I also got a set of pins, that are solo punches for bigger holes for rope leather and such, they went from tiny, to almost 1/4". In the past my leather was for black powder stuff, and I wanted a slightly ragged look, so I just used an old awl to punch in holes. Looking finer here. Plus I got a stitching handle with some needles, and thread.
> 
> - therealSteveN


----------



## HokieKen

Leather definitely makes a nicer sheath. And I imagine the methods and tools used are very similar. Kydex has one very notable advantage for me because I use high carbon steels with no alloying elements to aid in corrosion resistance. And I live in a humid part of the country. And leather retains moisture. So if you store a knife I made in a leather sheath for long, guess what happens. Kydex is bulkier and less refined but it won't retain moisture so it's a utilitarian choice.

I was making a couple of Kydex sheaths yesterday and thought to myself "hmmm there's a 3D printer across the hall… We may see a 3D printed sheath in this swap


----------



## therealSteveN

> Nathan is right, the leather punch makes holes too large for stitching. But, what Nathan linked to is a lacing chisel set. You would probably prefer stitching chisels since you already have the thread, however I don t see the need for a single prong. They make a smaller hole.
> I ve done a lot of leather work in the past. I checked the Tandy Leather site, their stuff is just a little more expensive but you can get exactly what you need and can choose what spacing you want between holes, 2, 3 or 4mm spacing. I ve ordered from them several times. Choose a store closer to you.
> 
> - duckmilk


Duck, Tandy leather, and Radio Shack, both blew out of Ohio, at least all the locations I knew of many many years ago. Used to be like 7-11's one on every corner, then POOF all gone, almost overnight. 7-11's too now that I said it.


----------



## therealSteveN

> Leather definitely makes a nicer sheath. And I imagine the methods and tools used are very similar. Kydex has one very notable advantage for me because I use high carbon steels with no alloying elements to aid in corrosion resistance. And I live in a humid part of the country. And leather retains moisture. So if you store a knife I made in a leather sheath for long, guess what happens. Kydex is bulkier and less refined but it won t retain moisture so it s a utilitarian choice.
> 
> I was making a couple of Kydex sheaths yesterday and thought to myself "hmmm there s a 3D printer across the hall… We may see a 3D printed sheath in this swap
> 
> - HokieKen


I imagine somewhere some dood is wearing 3D printed undershorts, hardly anything you can't make it seems like. I imagine future cars will be electric, and 3D printed. Buy a battery pack and make your own sedan…. 

Yeah I don't ever store anything in leather, now Splint, or Dave, could probably, just weather related.


----------



## therealSteveN

> I ve used wire gauge drill bits and a dremel tool for making thread holes in leather, it s fast and the tool doesn t care how thick the leather is.
> 
> - bigblockyeti


Good tip. I find the weight and bulk of a hand drill make it tough, at least for me, to also do straight even spacing, but on a drill press, you could do a bang up job. 

Just as I posted this I remembered I have about 5 or so meat powered drills that weigh less than 1/2 pound. I can even go around corners with the lightest one.


----------



## HokieKen

I'll never print my undershorts. Those will ALWAYS be leather.

Enjoy that picture in your mind's eye.


----------



## bndawgs

You guys wear underwear?


----------



## therealSteveN

What picchur? Kenny did you say something??


----------



## therealSteveN

> You guys wear underwear?
> 
> - Steve


Nat when Ima wearing my Kilt Lad…. Free as a breeze, if I go to Weddings or Funerals Mama insists, ahhhhh Wimmens….


----------



## pottz

he was talking about his weiner on another thread this morning !


----------



## jeffswildwood

I actually have a set of leather tools that survived from my school days in the late 60's to the early 70's. I never made a sheath but did several wallets. I guess it's it same principle. I remember using my hammer punch that would put four slits (holes) at a time and using an awl, (they called it a fid) to expand the holes for lacing.


----------



## duckmilk

> I actually have a set of leather tools that survived from my school days in the late 60 s to the early 70 s. I never made a sheath but did several wallets. I guess it s it same principle. I remember using my hammer punch that would put four slits (holes) at a time and using an awl, (they called it a fid) to expand the holes for lacing.
> 
> - jeffswildwood


And to keep even spacing you put one prong in the last hole and punch the next three. A 2 prong chisel allows you to go around curves.


----------



## DavePolaschek

> Duck, Tandy leather, and Radio Shack, both blew out of Ohio, at least all the locations I knew of many many years ago. Used to be like 7-11's one on every corner, then POOF all gone, almost overnight. 7-11's too now that I said it.


Tandy Leather did have physical stores, but I've never been in one. Their website prices are not the cheapest, as was said, but they sell decent stuff, and it's all in one place. My only complaint with buying from them is that once you do, the emails will never stop.


----------



## pottz

my brother used to do leather work and shopped at the tandy store,but that was back in the 80's. there long gone now.


----------



## Lazyman

> Duck, Tandy leather, and Radio Shack, both blew out of Ohio, at least all the locations I knew of many many years ago. Used to be like 7-11 s one on every corner, then POOF all gone, almost overnight. 7-11 s too now that I said it.
> 
> - therealSteveN


It's only a 30 minute drive.

7255 Dixie Hwy
Fairfield OH 45014 USA

I didn't look for the nearest 7-11


----------



## therealSteveN

It s only *a 30 minute drive. *

7255 Dixie Hwy
Fairfield OH 45014 USA

I didn t look for the nearest 7-11

30 minutes at 3AM on a clear night. Quickest I could get there during business hours is an hour and 15. Heading anywhere into CicncaBS traffic just add 45 and you will usually be ok, unless your Cinci trip takes you into N Ky, which often is what happens, they claim Cinci area, but it's over the river, and that adds another 45. Not that the roads are that bad, or even the traffic is that heavy. More than 1/2 of Cinci has an IQ of 12, of this I am fairly certain having worked there, and living as close as I do. Point is not many Cinciholligans should be driving, but even the ones without a license are.

I had no idea. There were so many in Dayton, and all of them are gone. I assumed they were just gone. That area in Fairfield is very close to Jungle Jim's, a favorite haunt. Maybe next I go down with my Wife I'll drive slow, and have her spot for where the store is.

I guarantee I must have driven by it a thousand times, one of my last employers was a block away, JJ's, and a few other places I go to are near that. BUT, and it's a big but. That entire area for at least 7 miles is one continuous strip mall, with hundreds of businesses shoe horned in there. Trying to locate some place you don't know where to turn in, is literally a needle in the haystack thing. GPS's don't work there worth a snot, and none of them have a visible address on the building. I'll look em up and call, if anyone answers I'll try to get what they are near, might be able to find them that way. Address is coming up as an ASAFO grocery, on a reverse lookup.

But going to ASAFO and following along, they have a steeenkin pic, and loookey there.










Now all I have to do is find that particular strip mall. ;-) Plus, that pic is clearly taken from a point within the parking lot, which makes it quite easy to spot the stores. From the actual road the opening which you have to navigate may be a very thin slice, so when you look over all you see is bricks, no signs.

Never mind on the 7-11, it was a point of reference ONLY.


----------



## EricFai

There 8s a 7-11 about 7 miles from me. Usually have the cheaper gas.


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## EricFai

You can add my name to the list of participants, e-mail sent.

I managed to get a blank cut out this evening. Handles will be easy, sharping not so easy. Hey, I have 2 months to establish an edge.


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## pottz

> You can add my name to the list of participants, e-mail sent.
> 
> I managed to get a blank cut out this evening. Handles will be easy, sharping not so easy. Hey, I have 2 months to establish an edge.
> 
> - Eric


alright now were talkin.started out slow but it's growing keebs.


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## HokieKen

For your viewing pleasure, a hook knife I handled over the weekend:


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## pottz

> For your viewing pleasure, a hook knife I handled over the weekend:
> 
> 
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> 
> - HokieKen


nice one kenny.


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## EricFai

Good looking hook knife Kenny. Looks like it would be comfortable in the hand.


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## therealSteveN

> For your viewing pleasure, a hook knife I handled over the weekend:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> - HokieKen


That is the sexiest hook knife I have ever seen, usually so blah blah blah, nice wood, and what looks to be a blade with some ass. I bought a XYZ Hooker a while back, and it's got slinky metal, so flimsy you could try to cut yourself, and do no damage. Put against wood and the wood just laughs, laughs and laughs, ohhhh stop it tickles…


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## Keebler1

Nice Kenny giving us all something to admire and hope we come close to something that looks as good


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## HokieKen

To be clear Keebler, I didn't make that knife, only the handle. I bought it from Deepwoods Ventures. If anyone is thinking of making carving knives or bushcraft/sloyd type knives they sell all of their blades with/without handles. And for hand-forged blades, the prices are exceptional.


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## HokieKen

> ... I bought a XYZ Hooker a while back, and it s got slinky metal, so flimsy you could try to cut yourself, and do no damage. Put against wood and the wood just laughs, laughs and laughs, ohhhh stop it tickles…
> 
> - therealSteveN


Anytime you put a hooker against your wood and there's laughter is a bad transaction…

I would steer clear of generic or chinesium hook knives. The Mora 164 is a good budget option but isn't in prime condition as-recieved.  It can be made into a fine user with a little elbow grease though.


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## DavePolaschek

If you want to support an independent US-based craftsman, Del Stubbs at Pinewood Forge makes very nice carving knife blanks, all of which you can handle yourself. I would strongly second Kenny's recommendation to avoid Chinesium.


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## HokieKen

Back to the subject of grinders…

I took stock of my grinder belts and their condition over the weekend. So I went to Tru Grit to stock back up this morning. So I put a few Norton Blaze ceramic belts in the cart. Then a couple 3M Trizact ceramics. Then a few different grits of Aluminum Oxide belts to use for shaping wood. I had a total of 10 belts and clicked on the checkout button and a small tear rolled down my cheek. $100+ for consumables?! Ouch :-(

But then I logged into my account to checkout and saw that the last order I placed was in January of *2020*. Turned that frown upside down! I use my belt grinder on practically everything that I make whether it's metal or wood. So $50/year isn't a bad cost of operation 

So I mentioned it before but one of the big advantages of a 2×72 over a 1×30 or 4×36 or 6×48 is that the long belts that run cool can last most of eternity  So if you're thinking of buying or making one, don't crap your pants when you place that first order for belts. Once you figure out what belts you need, you won't have to buy them often.

Also if anyone is getting or has one and is interested, I'd be glad to give a rundown of what brand/grit belts I buy for what purposes. There are lots of abrasives from lots of manufacturers with lots of different backings and I remember spending hours trying to figure out what to order when I first built mine…


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## RyanGi

Yes please Kenny! I'm thinking I'm gonna pull the trigger on a 2×72 this week, so I'd love some guidance on belts. G&$#&#n swaps making me buy tools again…


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## Lazyman

I would like to see your rundown rundown, Kenny. I have a couple of Trizact belts and they are fantastic and even in the short lengths that I use, they seem to last forever. I use the finest grit one to get mirror edges on my plane irons. I usually stick to to courser grits for my turning tools. The coarser ones also seem to run a little cooler than other types. My only ceramic belt is a 60 grit if I remember correctly and I use it mostly for fixing bevels or tools where I need to start over with the shape of the tool or bevel.


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## pottz

yeah kinda interested in this topic myself with a belt sander on the way.mine will probably see more wood sanding than metal though.


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## HokieKen

Opinions are like…. you know. But here is what I have narrowed my abrasives down to for the type of metal and wood work that I do:

*Metal*


Norton Blaze Plus Ceramic in 36, 60 and 100 grit. I use these for heavy grinding on steels and for flattening the sides of blades after hardening. 100 grit can cut fast and also leaves a decent surface finish. Backing is thick and rigid so belts last a long time and do heavy cutting but aren't well-suited for small contact wheels or slack-belt chores.
3M Trizact Structured Ceramic in 180, 240, 400 and 600. These are my finishing belts for steels. They leave a nice surface finish and run cool. They have a flexible thin cloth backing so they are good for slack-belt and small wheels. I also use them with overhang on one side of the platen and use the corner of the platen to form corners. The abrasive has exceptionally long life but I have shredded two of these when grinding into tips of blades. These belts are also good for refining bevels and even putting a final edge on a blade. The 600 grit can leave a near mirror polish but like any sanding, you have to be sure to work up through the grits and not take shortcuts. I think the 600 grit could be removed from my "must have" list unless you intend to either sharpen blades or polish the hell out of steel on the grinder.
3M Trizact Structured Silicon Carbide in 1200 grit. I have this and use it for refining the bevels on carving tools. I don't generally recommend it for blade making though unless you're really going for uber highly polished stuff. When I make a blade, I always do my final polishing by hand with wet/dry paper. I throw it in for info but don't consider it a necessity at all.
Klingspor Silicone Carbide in 60 and 100. These are optional. I use these specifically for grinding aluminum and brass because I often machine parts from those materials. SiC is the only material I've found that can grind softer metals without clogging or burning quickly. I almost always use the 60 grit. Honestly not even sure if I've ever used the 100.
3M Scotchbrite belt. This belt is expensive and isn't a necessity. I use it A LOT for deburring machined parts and it lasts pretty much forever. I find the blue is a good general-purpose grade but the gray or white would probably be better suited if you wanted them to put a matte finish on metals. Honestly though, you can do so almost a quickly by hand with Scotchbrite pads.

*Wood*


Norton Norzon Zirconia in 60 and 120 grit. These are long life belts for heavy and fast removal of wood. They don't clog or burn as easily as cheaper Aluminum Oxide belts in the lower grits. They are especially good for rough-shaping exotic wood handles on knives.
Klingspor Aluminum Oxide in 120, 220, 320. For detail and final sanding of wood. These belts cut slower than Zirconia and are more prone to clogging and burning but also leave a nicer and more uniform finish. If you have a variable speed grinder, run it slower with these belts. Make sure to get the J or JF backing and not the X. X is too rigid for sanding contours.


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## duckmilk

To follow up, there is a Tandy store on the north side of Fort Worth I have been to a few times.

I buy ceramic belts for metal, I don't buy separate belts for wood, just use the same ones. I buy my belts from Combat Abrasive, up at the top of the page there is a section titled Abrasives Information that you guys would probably be interested in. I even bought some of these scalloped belts for grinding next to handle material.
Lots of other products there also and prices are good. USA based and apparently veteran related.
They sponsor Black Bear Forge and if you scroll down from one of his videos, you will find a discount code.


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## pottz

just checked out combat and bookmarked.thanks duck.


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## HokieKen

I really like the flap disks from Combat Duck. But they don't have very much of selection of belts. Prices are nice though. Next time I need some I'll try theirs out. I have a couple of the scalloped belts too and they are nice for getting into corners but I don't have much problem doing that with a regular belt with a light cloth back so I don't order the scalloped ones anymore.


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## duckmilk

Yeah, I haven't used the scalloped ones yet either but should have tried them rounding the corners of the scales on the hash knife. Likewise, I haven't used the scotchbrite belt yet.


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## therealSteveN

> ... I bought a XYZ Hooker a while back, and it s got slinky metal, so flimsy you could try to cut yourself, and do no damage. Put against wood and the wood just laughs, laughs and laughs, ohhhh stop it tickles…
> 
> - therealSteveN
> 
> *Anytime you put a hooker against your wood and there s laughter is a bad transaction…*
> 
> I would steer clear of generic or chinesium hook knives. The Mora 164 is a good budget option but isn t in prime condition as-recieved.  It can be made into a fine user with a little elbow grease though.
> 
> - HokieKen


Made me LOL.

Yeah I've sworn off chinesium it isn't a good value.


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## therealSteveN

> To follow up, there is a Tandy store on the north side of Fort Worth I have been to a few times.
> 
> I buy ceramic belts for metal, I don t buy separate belts for wood, just use the same ones. I buy my belts from Combat Abrasive, up at the top of the page there is a section titled Abrasives Information that you guys would probably be interested in. I even bought some of these scalloped belts for grinding next to handle material.
> Lots of other products there also and prices are good. USA based and apparently veteran related.
> They sponsor Black Bear Forge and if you scroll down from one of his videos, you will find a discount code.
> 
> - duckmilk


Gotta love a place where you can by several kinds of strip belts, and gun care products.


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## therealSteveN

Just got my newest toy. I'll be heading back to the shop to torture test it a little bit. 

Tomorrow the newest new toy will be coming. Decided to sell off my Old Crapsman once I get it back on it's feet. I almost bought this back during lockdown, but alas Rikon wasn't having any of that.

My sanding capabilities, recently greatly diminished, are back in the saddle again.


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## RyanGi

> Just got my newest toy. I ll be heading back to the shop to torture test it a little bit.
> 
> Tomorrow the newest new toy will be coming. Decided to sell off my Old Crapsman once I get it back on it s feet. I almost bought this back during lockdown, but alas Rikon wasn t having any of that.
> 
> My sanding capabilities, recently greatly diminished, are back in the saddle again.
> 
> - therealSteveN


Lucky!!!


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## recycle1943

I haven't followed this entire thread but I did pick up on Radio Shack. I have a Radio Shack nearby in Carrollton Ohio 
https://www.loc8nearme.com/ohio/carrollton/radioshack/2950884/
and they have something that somebody here needs, I'd be happy to pick it up and snail mail it to the new owner.
Also, there's a Tandy Leather about an hour away that offers free shipping with a $150 order
https://tandyleather.com/pages/tandy-leather-cleveland-134

and plus, this is my weekly check in so I don't get detention


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## pottz

anybody here buy from wood turners wonders ? i wanna put a CBN wheel on the new jet grinder belt sander ive got coming.they seem to have the full lineup when it comes to CBN.


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## HokieKen

I bought CBN discs for my Worksharp from them Pottz. Don't think I've ever bought anything else there.


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## RyanGi

Yup. Bought the wheels for my grinder on the lathe bench from him. Ken is an awesome guy. I called him and walked him through what I was doing with the grinder, what kind of tools I've got, and how I wanted it set up and he recommended wheels for me. I'd highly recommend you call him, well worth the investment.


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## RyanGi

Ken, how do you like the worksharp CBN wheels? I don't burn up paper on mine very often, but I'm always a fan of longevity.


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## HokieKen

They're great for rehabbing old chisels and plane irons Ryan. If you don't do much of that or sharpen HSS on it, I don't think they'd be worth the investment. But they cut the time it takes to flatten a chisel back by about 70% so I'm happy with them.


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## duckmilk

Have you bought a belt grinder yet Ryan?

Ha! Used my hash knife this evening, cleaned it and while re-oiling it, managed to cut myself LOL. Very minor (no bandaid) and then, I resharpened it.


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## RyanGi

I haven't bought it yet, but I think I'm going to get the OBM setup. Well, I spent quite a chunk of today rearranging a corner of the shop so I'd say it's a little more than 'think' at this point…but I haven't done it yet!

I've only got a couple of old 3/4HP motors, not the 1HP I thought I had, and after pricing out the rough stock to build the frame (I was going to have to buy the platen and tools arms, wheels, etc anyway) it just just don't think there's enough of a savings to make my own. We'll see, the wheels could still come off this whole thing…


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## RyanGi

> They're great for rehabbing old chisels and plane irons Ryan. If you don't do much of that or sharpen HSS on it, I don't think they'd be worth the investment. But they cut the time it takes to flatten a chisel back by about 70% so I'm happy with them.
> 
> - HokieKen


Maybe I'll look at just a lower grit one than…I do mostly maintenance but I do occasionally start a new chisel or plane iron, so it would be nice to make that part easy.


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## pottz

i wish i had a corner to clean out.mine is coming and ive yet to figure where the hell im gonna put it. i wanna build a rolling small bench to mount it on,with my bench grinder and my small mini rikon like kenny sold to tony.but the shop is like a jigsaw puzzle and there is no missing pieces shall we say ! i do have some machines id like to get rid of and down size as my needs and wants are changing ? but how do you sell one of your babies ?


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## RyanGi

> i wish i had a corner to clean out.mine is coming and ive yet to figure where the hell im gonna put it. i wanna build a rolling small bench to mount it on,with my bench grinder and my small mini rikon like kenny sold to tony.but the shop is like a jigsaw puzzle and there is no missing pieces shall we say ! i do have some machines id like to get rid of and down size as my needs and wants are changing ? but how do you sell one of your babies ?
> 
> - pottz


I'm constantly in that same predicament Pottz. If I want a new tool, I've got to get rid of something else. The bench space I found was partially being used by an old harbor freight grinder that is way under powered and wasn't getting used because of that, so this would be an upgrade to that in a sense. I had to squish a bunch of other stuff around to get the other half opened up…and it still might not be enough. I'd be happy to put it on a rolling table, but I don't have a spot to put the table if I made it! Someday Pottz, someday I'll have a real shop…


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## Keebler1

You dont sell them Pottz you drive them out to my place and I feed you enough real bbq(bbq from tx) you forget to bring them back home with you


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## pottz

well ive got two table saws,do i need two ? probably not.i have a shaper i inherited from my dad.been several years and ive never even turned it on.so i can make room.just gotta let go….............ahhhhhhh!


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## GR8HUNTER

Just got my newest toy.

mine come tomorrow also :<)))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))


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## pottz

> You dont sell them Pottz you drive them out to my place and I feed you enough real bbq(bbq from tx) you forget to bring them back home with you
> 
> - Keebler1


thats a long haul for some bbq keebs,when i make some killer ribs myself.you gotta up the ante buddy ?


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## pottz

> Just got my newest toy.
> 
> mine come tomorrow also :<)))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))
> 
> - GR8HUNTER


woo hooo tony,nothing like a new or even used tool in the shop !


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## RyanGi

I'd love to have two TSs! Lucky! Not that I'd have anywhere to put it LOL!


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## RyanGi

> You dont sell them Pottz you drive them out to my place and I feed you enough real bbq(bbq from tx) you forget to bring them back home with you
> 
> - Keebler1
> 
> thats a long haul for some bbq keebs,when i make some killer ribs myself.you gotta up the ante buddy ?
> 
> - pottz


I consider myself pretty well versed in BBQ. My ribs are requested, brisket turns out just about awesome every time, even fowl comes out sweet off the BGE…but a proper Tx BBQ platter is awwwffulll hard to beat!


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## pottz

> I'd love to have two TSs! Lucky! Not that I'd have anywhere to put it LOL!
> 
> - RyanGi


the one is a cheap,500 bucks delta that i bough back when i was doing a lot of cabinets.id set it up just for dados.that need is gone now so it may need to go ?


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## pottz

> You dont sell them Pottz you drive them out to my place and I feed you enough real bbq(bbq from tx) you forget to bring them back home with you
> 
> - Keebler1
> 
> thats a long haul for some bbq keebs,when i make some killer ribs myself.you gotta up the ante buddy ?
> 
> - pottz
> 
> I consider myself pretty well versed in BBQ. My ribs are requested, brisket turns out just about awesome every time, even fowl comes out sweet off the BGE…but a proper Tx BBQ platter is awwwffulll hard to beat!
> 
> - RyanGi


yeah but you guys are more beef where im more pork ! now brisket is something i do wanna master.that might lure me out ?


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## HokieKen

NC is well known for bbq too. It's mostly pork and I'm a beef guy except for ribs though. A rack of ribs and a slab of brisket can make me smile for a week 

Pottz, I keep my buffer, miter saw, scroll saw and (used) to keep the grinder that Tony took possession of on plywood with french cleats on the back. I hange them near the ceiling behind my lathe and just pull them off the wall and clamp them on my table saw when I need them. Just food for thought ;-)


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## pottz

i kinda do the same kenny,ive got a bench vise,combo small disc belt sander and bench grinder mounted on heavy slabs that i clamp on my bench as needed.


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## RyanGi

> You dont sell them Pottz you drive them out to my place and I feed you enough real bbq(bbq from tx) you forget to bring them back home with you
> 
> - Keebler1
> 
> thats a long haul for some bbq keebs,when i make some killer ribs myself.you gotta up the ante buddy ?
> 
> - pottz
> 
> I consider myself pretty well versed in BBQ. My ribs are requested, brisket turns out just about awesome every time, even fowl comes out sweet off the BGE…but a proper Tx BBQ platter is awwwffulll hard to beat!
> 
> - RyanGi
> 
> yeah but you guys are more beef where im more pork ! now brisket is something i do wanna master.that might lure me out ?
> 
> - pottz


Hey, I'm in California too, remember? And I do cook a lot of pork, but Texas beef is pretty awesome.


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## pottz

> You dont sell them Pottz you drive them out to my place and I feed you enough real bbq(bbq from tx) you forget to bring them back home with you
> 
> - Keebler1
> 
> thats a long haul for some bbq keebs,when i make some killer ribs myself.you gotta up the ante buddy ?
> 
> - pottz
> 
> I consider myself pretty well versed in BBQ. My ribs are requested, brisket turns out just about awesome every time, even fowl comes out sweet off the BGE…but a proper Tx BBQ platter is awwwffulll hard to beat!
> 
> - RyanGi
> 
> yeah but you guys are more beef where im more pork ! now brisket is something i do wanna master.that might lure me out ?
> 
> - pottz
> 
> Hey, I'm in California too, remember? And I do cook a lot of pork, but Texas beef is pretty awesome.
> 
> - RyanGi


oh i do love my beef,no argument there !


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## Lazyman

While I like the pork and sausage that most BBQ places serve, I always feel like I was cheated if I don't have the brisket. We often smoke some baby back ribs but rarely do our own brisket. It is sort of an all day commitment to do it right.

My my current favorite TX BBQ joint is Q-39 in KC, MO. Puts all of the so called KC BBQ to shame and a lot of the TX ones as well. If you are ever in KC, I highly recommend it. My daughter lived within walking distance of the place for a while and we went there almost every time we visited. Too bad she is currently a travel nurse and working in Oregon.


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## therealSteveN

> I'd love to have two TSs! Lucky! Not that I'd have anywhere to put it LOL!
> 
> - RyanGi


Doesn't everyone have 2??? They make right tilt, and left tilt. I thought you were supposed to have one of each ))


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## therealSteveN

> While I like the pork and sausage that most BBQ places serve, I always feel like I was cheated if I don t have the brisket. We often smoke some baby back ribs but rarely do our own brisket. It is sort of an all day commitment to do it right.
> 
> My my current favorite TX BBQ joint is Q-39 in KC, MO. Puts all of the so called KC BBQ to shame and a lot of the TX ones as well. If you are ever in KC, I highly recommend it. My daughter lived within walking distance of the place for a while and we went there almost every time we visited. Too bad she is currently a travel nurse and working in Oregon.
> 
> - Lazyman


I know Texans live larger than life, and most would give the nod to Texas Q as the only real Q. I think Mo, and the Carolina's kick Texan Q to the side of the road, at least what I have tried. Thing is there are good BBQ places all over this land. Heck we even have a few up here that can compete.

Best Q was in Tn. I don't even remember the town we stayed over in anymore. But this Chick from Cali had a mobile smoker deal looked like a Franklin built cooker, but on a trailer frame. She rented a spot in a roadside ditch, next to a small mfg place, and sold out the back door. Stuff was incredible. Cheap to buy, and made you wanna eat it all the time. If I wasn't happily married I would have asked for her hand in marriage. :-0))))


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## therealSteveN

I spent quite a bit of time torture testing this new Rikon 1×30 with vari speed, and it is a keeper. I like it.

OK it's a BBQ throwdown. Everyone get s their BUTTS, and Briskets on the grill. Best Q wins…..... ))))))


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## EricFai

Check in for the week. Speaking if new toys, mine arrived yesterday, 1-1/2 HP DC now the fun begins to get it hung on the wall and figure out the duct work. And build some blast gates.


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## Lazyman

I've always thought that if I ever make some blast gates, I would make this design


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## bndawgs

I enjoy my two bandsaws and table saws as well


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## EricFai

Nathan, thanks for the link. They look like they would work out well and make good supports for the duct.


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## Lazyman

> I know Texans live larger than life, and most would give the nod to Texas Q as the only real Q. I think Mo, and the Carolina s kick Texan Q to the side of the road, at least what I have tried. Thing is there are good BBQ places all over this land. Heck we even have a few up here that can compete.
> 
> - therealSteveN


I've tried several other KC BBQs, including some of the famous ones, and Q-39 is the only one I would bother to go back to again (and again). They have all disappointed me and a couple of the local chains were just bad, but that is common when a great place expands into multiple locations. Q-39 on the other hand is as good a BBQ as I have had anywhere.

I was also disappointed in the one BBQ place we tried in Memphis. According to all the local reviews, it was supposed to be one of the best and define the Memphis style BBQ but I thought it was boring. They relied too much on the sauce for flavor. Without the sauce, it was just meat and the sauce looked and tasted like little more than ketchup watered down with vinegar and maybe a dash of Worchestershire. My wife had the pork and I had the beef and both were equally bland. While I like a good sauce (which this wasn't), the best BBQ is still great without it.


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## jeffswildwood

> i kinda do the same kenny,ive got a bench vise,combo small disc belt sander and bench grinder mounted on heavy slabs that i clamp on my bench as needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - pottz


What a great idea! I have several loose tools (scroll saw, spindle sander, HF belt sander) that would benefit from a set up like that.


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## Lazyman

I created a base for my bench grinder with hinged section on the front that can either hang down to be held in a vise or clamped to the front (apron) of a bench. The hinged section can also be flat so that in can be clamped down to a bench top. Of course, I have not moved it from its current spot for several years now. I also do not use it very often either so maybe I should move it to a shelf and use that space for something else… but it would probably never be used if I have to retrieve it from the shelf every time I want it.

I would post a picture of it but I would have to take all of the sanding belts that are draped over it off so you could see it. Speaking of which…I really need to come up with a better way to store my belts when not in use.


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## HokieKen

I have a cheap wire coat rack hanging on the shop door that holds my sanding belts Nathan.


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## Lazyman

Not a bad idea, though having them on the door would annoy me.  I've been thinking about a long dowel poking out from the wall but that would require me to remove any in the way to get to another. I also really need 2 racks. One for my 6×48 belts and one for the smaller belts for my Sorby Proedge. Problem is, I would want them near those machines and there really is not a good place there to hang them-which is why they usually end up on a pile on top of my bench grinder.


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## HokieKen

Yeah it can be a pain having them on the door. My door is very wide so it doesn't bother me as far as being in the way on entry/exit. But sometimes one will swing over when I close the door and get stuck. Then I have a belt with a nice crease in it.


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## pottz

> i kinda do the same kenny,ive got a bench vise,combo small disc belt sander and bench grinder mounted on heavy slabs that i clamp on my bench as needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - pottz
> 
> What a great idea! I have several loose tools (scroll saw, spindle sander, HF belt sander) that would benefit from a set up like that.
> 
> - jeffswildwood


well i dont have 50 feet of bench top to mount them all on permanently so this solves the problem.


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## HokieKen

Question for you leather workers:

If a fella was to decide to try his hand at a sheath, what kind of leather would he order? I'm figuring vegetable tanned tooling leather in 2/3 oz weight? Or would 3/4 oz be better? And can I dye vegetable tanned leather?


----------



## Lazyman

I am just speculating but 3/4 is up to about 1.6mm thick which seems a little thin to me. The pocket knife sheath I have is 2.34mm thick, which seems about right to me, though it may depend upon the kind of knife and style of sheath. That would seem to make it 5/6 oz, if I am reading the online chart correctly.


----------



## Keebler1

Just found this on tandy leather site. Looks like the kit comes with everything you just have to assemble


----------



## HokieKen

> I am just speculating but 3/4 is up to about 1.6mm thick which seems a little thin to me. The pocket knife sheath I have is 2.34mm thick, which seems about right to me, though it may depend upon the kind of knife and style of sheath. That would seem to make it 5/6 oz, if I am reading the online chart correctly.
> 
> - Lazyman


Good point. Now that I think about it, I guess leather sheaths typically are thicker than synthetic ones. What I had in mind for a "learning" project was a blade cover for my hook knives. Those would need to be thinner so they're more pliable. But for a belt sheath, 5/6 oz probably is preferable.


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## RyanGi

What about an accordion-action belt rack for hanging grinder belts? Ya know, the old lattice looking wall-jobber with the pegs on it? I bet you could make of up and secure one end of it to a wall so you could pull it out into space and have all the belts accessible.


----------



## HokieKen

I considered hanging a bar from the ceiling next to the wall and making some hooks from old wire coat hangers. I still think that's a good idea depending on if you have a good spot for it. Ryan's idea sounds good too.


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## RyanGi

In my head (mind you, I don't own a belt grinder or have any 2×72 belts yet…), the issue is when taking off or putting a belt onto the hanging rack, the grit is going to catch the belt next to it, messing them all up or pulling them off the hooks. I guess if the individual hooks pointed up, that would help take gravity out of the situation but then the belt has to move up, before coming off the hook. Not sure how well that's going to work.

Moving the individual belts away from each other so they don't touch when you're choosing one would eliminate the friction issue, but obviously with a belt collection like some like some of you geezers have that would take up a lot of room. So it seems something that articulates when put away could help with that. Spread the belts out during the 'selection' process, then pack them together when stored. Having exactly zero spare room in my shop, things like this vex me.

FWIW, 'geezer' is a term of endearment. I strive to be a geezer some day…


----------



## therealSteveN

> I enjoy my two bandsaws and table saws as well
> 
> - Steve


Yeah, I went right and left on the TS's and Biggun, and little one on the BS's, with those combinations I can take on all comers. 

Again, I thought everyone did this.


----------



## bndawgs

Well, my 2nd TS is an old craftsman 113 that I built a workstation for. I should really sell it, but I'm enjoying all of the storage space. Currently I just use it for a dado blade since I don't want to spend the money on a dado cartridge and insert for my SS. 
I'm thinking about adding a router table to it as well.


----------



## RyanGi

Hey, are Oregon Blade Makers and Origin Blade Makers the same company????


----------



## therealSteveN

> I am just speculating but 3/4 is up to about 1.6mm thick which seems a little thin to me. The pocket knife sheath I have is 2.34mm thick, which seems about right to me, though it may depend upon the kind of knife and style of sheath. That would seem to make it 5/6 oz, if I am reading the online chart correctly.
> 
> - Lazyman


Obviously to work it, thin is easier, so a lot of folks will use the thinner, and in spots you would want it thicker like where the edge of the blade lies they will add small strips of additional leather to make it a double, or even triple thickness. Usually that extra leather isn't sewn in, rather glued in place, and then they are only having to sew the thinner, easier to work leather. Poking a lot of holes into really thick leather can be taxing, or require large scale machinery, which for a few pieces would not be cost effective. I picked that up using leather for the muzzle loader stuff, which is bigger pieces. I'll see how it works scaling it down to something smaller like a sheath.


----------



## therealSteveN

> Well, my 2nd TS is an old craftsman 113 that I built a workstation for. I should really sell it, but I m enjoying all of the storage space. Currently I just use it for a dado blade since I don t want to spend the money on a dado cartridge and insert for my SS.
> I m thinking about adding a router table to it as well.
> 
> - Steve


If I ever get them all in the same room I might get it down to thinking about selling? Currently I have the 110 Contractor TS a Delta 39-979 and the smaller "scrolling, curve cutting" BS in the garage, I can jump out there in my slippers if needed, and make a few cuts. The General 350, and the Big Rikon 18" BS are out in the shop. I claim a big shop, but darned if I'm not trying to fill it up.  Unorganized as it currently is, it's getting harder to work out there. Piles of piles of, well piles of stuff. I need to start selling I think. Someone just said that, how do you sell your babies???


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## HokieKen

> Hey, are Oregon Blade Makers and Origin Blade Makers the same company????
> 
> - RyanGi


Yes. They used to be Oregon Blade Makers but some unscrupulous company overseas was using their name to sell subpar parts. So they changed the name to Origin Blade Makers. Or something like that… It was a few years ago and they had a blurb about it on their ebay storefront but it's gone now and I don't recall the specifics.


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## pottz

> Well, my 2nd TS is an old craftsman 113 that I built a workstation for. I should really sell it, but I m enjoying all of the storage space. Currently I just use it for a dado blade since I don t want to spend the money on a dado cartridge and insert for my SS.
> I m thinking about adding a router table to it as well.
> 
> - Steve
> 
> If I ever get them all in the same room I might get it down to thinking about selling? Currently I have the 110 Contractor TS a Delta 39-979 and the smaller "scrolling, curve cutting" BS in the garage, I can jump out there in my slippers if needed, and make a few cuts. The General 350, and the Big Rikon 18" BS are out in the shop. I claim a big shop, but darned if I m not trying to fill it up.  Unorganized as it currently is, it s getting harder to work out there. Piles of piles of, well piles of stuff. I need to start selling I think. Someone just said that, how do you sell your babies???
> 
> - therealSteveN


yeah but im at that point i really need to.if you have a tool and havn't used it in many years probably time to let it go.plus as i get older my needs and desires for what i make are evolving.


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## DavePolaschek

> If a fella was to decide to try his hand at a sheath, what kind of leather would he order? I'm figuring vegetable tanned tooling leather in 2/3 oz weight? Or would 3/4 oz be better? And can I dye vegetable tanned leather?


3-4 is good, and easier to work. 5-6 is better if you're going to be really hard on it, but you need beefier punches to make holes (even the cheap ones will work in 3-4) and folding a crease in 5-6 is a pretty good workout. I use a scrap of katalox carved into a butter-knife shape to help me crease heavier leather. I'll also crease it with my vise, but that'll leave marks in the leather.

Veg-tanned dyes just fine with Fiebings dyes. And as SteveN said, you can use thinner leather (even 1/2) and double it up in the places that see wear. Use ordinary contact cement to glue leather to leather, and if you're nervous about your stitching, you can use a line of cement under your stitches, too.



> Just found this on tandy leather site. Looks like the kit comes with everything you just have to assemble


The kit doesn't include any of the stitching punches you'll need (it's pre-punched leather) for future projects, but yes, you can get your first knife sheath made with their kit. And you could tack on a 4in1 punch for $15 more and have much of what you'll need. What they don't include, you can make for yourself, except for the punches (also known as stitching irons).

I prefer the punches where each hole ends up being a rhombus, rather than round holes. The leather holds onto the stitches better that way and I think they look slightly sharper, too.

This kit on Amazon looks like everything you'll need other than the leather. It looks like very cheap (chinesium) tools, but good enough to get you started, and you can upgrade as tools break if you keep at it.


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## bndawgs

Kenny, does your local harris teeter offer these random buckets of loose beers? I got this pack for $15.


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## HokieKen

I don't even think we have Harris Teeter around here anymore :-( If we do, I dunno where they're at…


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## duckmilk

Sounds like you guys have it figured out already.

I think thinner leather would be better for your hook knives. For something like a hunting knife 5-6 or 6-7 would probably be best. For folding leather, there is a tool that cuts a small v groove on the inside face which makes that job easier.

Kenny is right, OBM used to be Oregon but now is Origin. (watch his head swell) Occasionally, on their website something will still say Oregon.

I also need a sanding belt storage solution. Main problem is, there is no wall within 12' of my grinder, It sits in the middle of part of the big shop.










I will need a free standing solution, or maybe add something off the right end of the long bench, hmmm.

That's a steal Steve.


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## Keebler1

Duck could you just put hooks in the legs the grinder is sitting on? Sure they may touch ground but it shouldnt hurt them. If you eanted you could put some plasticunderneathe the belts


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## HokieKen

> ...For folding leather, there is a tool that cuts a small v groove on the inside face which makes that job easier.
> 
> ...
> 
> - duckmilk


What would that be called Duck? Sounds like something I might want to have handy.


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## DavePolaschek

I'm thinking any carving v-tool would do the job, Ken. Thanks for the idea, Duck!


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## duckmilk

This one is called a v gouge.


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## duckmilk

Or this one.


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## bndawgs

Peach pie from the peaches in the yard. I have a dwarf white peach tree


----------



## HokieKen

I think I have something that can work for that v-gouge. Thanks Duck 

Mmmm love fresh peach pie Steve.


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## bndawgs

I cheated and bought a ready made crust. Of course I forgot to get ice cream. Grrrrr


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## jeffswildwood

Pottz, exactly. I have maybe the worlds smallest work bench. Plus no moxon vise. But I do have an old workmate and could interchange them on that instead of using my TS and clamps by using your idea. Thanks for the idea.


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## duckmilk

> Duck could you just put hooks in the legs the grinder is sitting on? Sure they may touch ground but it shouldnt hurt them. If you eanted you could put some plasticunderneathe the belts
> 
> - Keebler1


Yeah, the one holding the grinder is taller, maybe on the back side. I'm thinking 1" or larger dowels attached to a board then mounted on the back. I don't want anything too skinny that might leave a tight curve in the belts.


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## HokieKen

You'll find that anything directly behind your belt gets filthy Duck. So you may want to put a roof on your belt board if you mount it back there. I used to have my buffer with cotton wheels mounted behind my belt grinder. I was grinding away on steel one day and smelled something burning. Then saw smoke. Then saw flame…. Other than a stitched cotton wheel, nothing was destroyed. But I'm mighty glad I didn't have it sitting in front of drywall or my box of rags. Or my trash can. These days nothing lives behind my grinder except a steel bench vise.


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## duckmilk

Good advice Kenny. I've tried coming up with some way to reduce the amount of stuff flying to the back of the grinder. Currently there is a 2×2 piece of square metal tubing under the belt but it isn't quite tall enough. Maybe a piece of angle iron that almost touches the belt or a small piece of aluminum bent backward so what hits it will slide to the front and into the bucket. There will always be some that gets by but it should help.


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## Lazyman

> Sounds like you guys have it figured out already.
> 
> I think thinner leather would be better for your hook knives. For something like a hunting knife 5-6 or 6-7 would probably be best. For folding leather, there is a tool that cuts a small v groove on the inside face which makes that job easier.
> 
> Kenny is right, OBM used to be Oregon but now is Origin. (watch his head swell) Occasionally, on their website something will still say Oregon.
> 
> I also need a sanding belt storage solution. Main problem is, there is no wall within 12 of my grinder, It sits in the middle of part of *the big shop*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will need a free standing solution, or maybe add something off the right end of the long bench, hmmm.
> 
> That s a steal Steve.
> 
> - duckmilk


Since you don't anything under the low bench next to it, maybe swing out or slide out hanger that stows under there. I guess there might be enough room on the grinder's bench for something like that too.

BTW, Duck's wood shop sits *inside *his big shop.


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## RyanGi

That good stuff to know Ken, I'll need to put up some sort of a blocker.


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## DavePolaschek

> That good stuff to know Ken, I'll need to put up some sort of a blocker.


It doesn't have to be super-fancy, Ryan. I just have a piece (maybe 9" by 18") of cheap diamond plate from Homer Depot screwed to the drywall behind my grinder. Stuff hits it and falls to the concrete floor and all is well. At least as long as I don't sweep a pile of sawdust there.


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## RyanGi

Mine's going to sit on a benchtop with a pegboard wall behind it. Maybe I'll bend up a piece of sheet metal to create a backing plate and a catch area on the benchtop. How high to you think it needs to go up the wall? Is it flinging stuff all over the place or just pretty much right behind the lower section of belt?


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## duckmilk

I'm not thinking of stopping the sparks and such behind the grinder, my thought is to stop it at the front of the bench. The platen and tool rest protrude several inches in front of the bench. In this picture, you can see the 2×2 tubing I have under the belt.










I'll try to work on that tomorrow and show you what I have in mind.


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## RyanGi

Ok, I get it. Seems like you could rig up a plate with a small section cut out to allow the belt to pass through. That might do it. Does sawdust follow a similar pattern to the metal dust? It's a different density, but I'm not sure how it would carry along the belt…

Is that the standard Large tool rest?


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## Keebler1

Well remembering kennys fire puts metalworking out of the picture for me. Too much sawdust all over my shop for that. Have a couple hrs to drive before shutting down. Hope i remember to go around the scales with this overweight load


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## pottz

yeah im still wood 98% but i do like making the occasional knife ! ill never be a blacksmith though.


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## RyanGi

See, I do enough on both sides of the shop (albeit the LJ swaps have been keeping me mostly on the woodshop side) that I wouldn't mind being set up to run both wood and metal safely and interchangeably. Especially since a 2X72 seems to have so much versatility. I've not done any forge work, mostly just lightweight machining, welding and light fab. But, I have been watching an awful lot about making small forges in the past couple days…but I doubt I'd use it enough to be worth storing it. Knife making would be an entry point for that I suppose… So many options….so little time…and shop space. Someday…


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## duckmilk

> Is that the standard Large tool rest?
> 
> - RyanGi


 No Ryan it is the articulating tool rest.

I found a piece of galvanized sheet metal already bent into a z shape, modified it and bent it until it barely touches the belt underneath, can hear a small bell ringing sound sometimes. Tried it out and didn't see any sparks flying out the back, 80 grit belt. A larger belt will probably hit it, but it is bent easily by hand.

From underneath










From the side










Bucket is underneath it.


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## Keebler1

Duck not sure I would want that rubbing the belt. Wonder if there is an easy way to mount the stick that cleans the belt to that piece so it is cleaning it all the time though? Might be worth looking into


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## Keebler1

@BigShooter welcome to the swap


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## RyanGi

What would you use to clean it Keebs? A brush, like on a bandsaw wheel?


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## pottz

> @BigShooter welcome to the swap
> 
> - Keebler1


who's big shooter keebs.one of your imaginary friends you 3d print ?


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## RyanGi

Duck, have you used any of the other tool rests? I can't afford to get the articulating rest up front, so I'm wondering about buying one of the fixed rests and making do for a while, or saving just a couple $$ and buying the better rest later on. I'm not making knives from scratch, so I don't know how much I need it anyway. What are your thoughts?


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## EricFai

Steve, that pie looks tasty, to bad you forgot the inc cream.


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## BigShooter

> @BigShooter welcome to the swap
> 
> - Keebler1


Thanks, looking forward to it. Haven't made a knife in 8 years or so


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## pottz

> Steve, that pie looks tasty, to bad you forgot the inc cream.
> 
> - Eric


doesn't matter ive already eaten half of it !!!


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## EricFai

2 pieces of metal cut out and shaped, started the edge, that's going to take me awhile. It cuts but not a scary sharp. The handle will be easy.

Decided to make a second one for myself.


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## pottz

> @BigShooter welcome to the swap
> 
> - Keebler1
> 
> Thanks, looking forward to it. Haven t made a knife in 8 years or so
> 
> - BigShooter


so you are real !!!!! welcome to the swap man ! your gonna have a lot of fun,just dont forget keebs rule,ya gotta participate !!


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## duckmilk

Welcome Big Shooter! Haven't made a knife in 8 years? How many years did you make knives? We might have a ringer here guys ;-))

Ryan, I opted for the articulated tool rest because it would allow me to use all of the platen, not just a certain point. But the regular tool rest will work fine since I haven't moved mine since installing it. You will be happier with a larger rest though.


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## HokieKen

Ryan, I've used a fixed tool rest the whole time I've had my grinder and I don't think you'll be handicapping yourself with one. I wouldn't spend big $ on one until you use the grinder some and get a feel for what you need. I would like an articulated one so I could adjust the angle but I get by fine just using jigs resting on the tool rest.

That piece of steel Duck has dragging the belt won't cause any issues as far as belt wear I don't think.

Duck's got a good spark arrester idea there. I get a lot of metal swarf at the back but mostly sparks. The belt takes on a statich charge when running so ferrous metals stick to it for a bit. I've started spraying the backs of my belts with Static Guard to keep from shocking the s$it out of myself in the winter but I think it reduces the mess back there some. Wood dust seems to mostly fall straight down under the platen. For a plate behind the drive wheel, I'd say anything as tall as the wheel would be sufficient.


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## BigShooter

> Welcome Big Shooter! Haven t made a knife in 8 years? How many years did you make knives? We might have a ringer here guys ;-))
> 
> Ryan, I opted for the articulated tool rest because it would allow me to use all of the platen, not just a certain point. But the regular tool rest will work fine since I haven t moved mine since installing it. You will be happier with a larger rest though.
> 
> - duckmilk


Ha, no ringer here. It will be a blank with some extras that I hope are enjoyed.


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## pottz

> Welcome Big Shooter! Haven t made a knife in 8 years? How many years did you make knives? We might have a ringer here guys ;-))
> 
> Ryan, I opted for the articulated tool rest because it would allow me to use all of the platen, not just a certain point. But the regular tool rest will work fine since I haven t moved mine since installing it. You will be happier with a larger rest though.
> 
> - duckmilk
> 
> Ha, no ringer here. It will be a blank with some extras that I hope are enjoyed.
> 
> - BigShooter


no problem,hell im buyin a knife on etsy,trust me these guys dont care,they just want a free knife. the beer swap is even worse,8 beers or more and they dont even care if you make something !!!


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## RyanGi

Alright, good to know. I'll spend the extra money on belts or something!


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## Keebler1

Ryan this is what I was thinking about would be neat to find a way to mount. I use one on my 6 inch disc sander I use to square pen blanks and it works pretty good. Dont have to change the belt as often. Not sure how well one would work on a belt used with metal though.


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## HokieKen

I keep one of those earsers by all my sanders and my Worksharp. They wear down too fast to be mounted in constant contact though I think. They are excellent for cleaning sawdust from belts though and they work well on metal too.


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## RyanGi

Yeah, I use them on my other sanders regularly and they really help extend the life of the grit, but I think they would wear away too fast if in constant contact. It's a good idea though. But putting anything up against a surface that's designed to wear stuff down is going to cause problems I think.


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## RyanGi

All right, just pulled the trigger on the OBM 2×72! My better half gave her blessing, albeit with an eye roll when I explained it. I think the comment was something like 'don't you have a sander?'…I guess that might be a good thing that she doesn't have full inventory of what's currently in the shop…


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## GR8HUNTER

Ryan we need pics after your set up i love tool porn :<))))))))


----------



## Lazyman

Ryan, are you going to use a variable speed motor of some kind?


----------



## bigblockyeti

> All right, just pulled the trigger on the OBM 2×72! My better half gave her blessing, albeit with an eye roll when I explained it. I think the comment was something like 'don't you have a sander?'…I guess that might be a good thing that she doesn't have full inventory of what's currently in the shop…
> 
> - RyanGi


Yeah, sometimes I get an eyeroll too and am aked if I already have XYZ, well yeah, I do, but this is totally different. Kinda like different color shoes or purses or lipstick or anything else in that one draw in the bathroom that looks like a future superfund site.


----------



## RyanGi

> Ryan, are you going to use a variable speed motor of some kind?
> 
> - Lazyman


I did. 1HP VS.


----------



## pottz

> All right, just pulled the trigger on the OBM 2×72! My better half gave her blessing, albeit with an eye roll when I explained it. I think the comment was something like 'don't you have a sander?'…I guess that might be a good thing that she doesn't have full inventory of what's currently in the shop…
> 
> - RyanGi


thats what mine always says,dont you already have one of those ? i never tell her,actually i have 3-lol.


----------



## HokieKen

Congratulations Ryan! A 1 hp VS motor is a good choice. You're unlikely to find that a limitation on power. Hopefully it's constant torque so it's still got plenty of ass at low speeds. Good choice on the OBM setup too. Before I decided to build mine, I came to the conclusion they were probably to best value out there. And it's a small US company which is always a factor for me in such decisions.

My wife doesn't even ask what tools I'm buying anymore. She just asks if it's an addition or a replacement and whether I'll be selling what it's replacing for budgetary reasons. I think she assumes I have all the big tools I could possibly want. She doesn't know about surface grinders or large drum sanders. Yet ;-)


----------



## RyanGi

I'll be interested to see what the ratings are on the motor. They list it as 120v 1HP but it can be up-wired to 240v, which I'll do since I've got 240v near there. Should pull down the amps and hopefully keep up the torque.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

240 will be half the amps of 110 :<)))))))


----------



## duckmilk

> That piece of steel Duck has dragging the belt won't cause any issues as far as belt wear I don't think.
> 
> Duck's got a good spark arrester idea there.
> - HokieKen


Thanks, the steel only touches the belt on occasion and be bent easily. I put a piece of hard metal to the belt and didn't see any sparks going behind it.


----------



## RyanGi

> 240 will be half the amps of 110 :<)))))))
> 
> - GR8HUNTER


Yup. I'm hoping to get some more torque out of it.


----------



## therealSteveN

I went from sanding impaired, to sanding Nirvana, at least for me. I won't be doing a lot of metal work, especially making a lot of blades. Too many places to buy good blades out there, but I was seeing a need for the strip sander for some time, and all of the discussion about them here, AND a few shekel's have fallen into my pockets from the sale of some equipment, accessories, a Moxon vise, and my old bench, plus a few odds and ends, so I went sander shopping. I'm still waiting to see the part I got for the old Sears sander, but once arrived I sell it off, almost did a few months back.

Beside a plethora of hand sanders, ROS, Belt, Pad, and a few dual mode ROS's I was down to 2 stationary sanders, both HF, and heavily used, but still kicking. An Oscillator, and a small belt disc 4×36 x 5".










The new strip sander, looked cheapest at Amazoo. I love it when you go back to a link after getting yours and it costs more than when you bought. 

For a low dollar unit I wasn't sure what to expect, but I am very happy. Every piece went together to create a square 90 where you want that on set up, and set up took less than 10 minutes, and that was even reading the manual as I went. They said not to turn it on until I did….. Fit and finish are very nice, again for a low dollar tool. It will fill the need I had for a small strip, and I can always use another disc sander. I see different grits on different machines

Belt to table CHECK










Disc to miter gauge. CHECK










Table to Disc CHECK










I think the thing that surprised me the most was on the diminutive miter gauges, they have a decal for the varied degrees, and the 0 made it spot on 90. I have recently seen miter gauges where the settings were embossed, and they were at least 3 degrees off, no way to change them either, anyhow, I'm a cheap date, easily amused…

Crammed a piece of 3.5" wide hard Maple into the disc, and it made it square, rather quickly I might add. It had a severe angle on the cut off.

Motor specs say.










On/Off and variable speed










So far everything I have done with it is within what I hope to do with it, and it's gotten it done without issue, Seems like plenty of power, does not come to a stop like the HF belt sander can do. 5 year warranty, fairly inexpensive, may fit the bill for many not looking to go full on metal shop.

I also got the new big sander 6×48 x 10. I haven't finished assembly, was playing around trying to decide if it's going on top of a roll around table I have with a deck below that will end up being paper storage, and consumables for it. The other option was assemble it's diminutive legs set. IIRC they were 22.5" so my 6'2" would be humped over it all the time getting a backache, but it means my Wife will have a bit of trouble using it. She uses all of the sanders on her crafts, mostly her baskets. I think I'm going on the rolling stand though, I can always pull it off, and put it on the leg set. The 10" disc may keep me from going bigger. I had thought about a 12" disc sander. I had a 10" back in the ShopSmith days, and it was never that I hoped for bigger, so maybe the 10 will do.

Front operational view.










Back side view










Motor says










Knife will have to take second place. Without a vise, I have several flat spots, but no real bench now, unless you call a Workmate a bench. I don't. So a new minibench/moxon, or some type of vise and flat workspace is a must.

I grabbed down some Hard Maple. tomorrow I go prepping wood, hope to get it done this weekend.


----------



## EricFai

Nice write up 9n the sanders SteveN. Thinking about one of those small strip sanders. Bit that has to wait a bit until I hard plumb the DC System.


----------



## RyanGi

Congrats SteveN! Looks like great additions.


----------



## HokieKen

Very nice SteveN. I'm on the fence about getting rid of my 4×36/9 inch combo. I used to use it constantly but since I build my grinder I rarely do. It is nice to have the wider surface on occasion though.


----------



## KelleyCrafts

I would like a 12" disc sander. Someday maybe.


----------



## bndawgs

I always want to build a sanding disc that I could use with my lathe


----------



## Keebler1

Dave make a 12" sander for your lathe. The ultimate in VS


----------



## therealSteveN

The disc would be a cinch, the only difficulty would be figuring how to make something strong enough, and steady enough to mount to the Banjo to support a decent table. With all the accessory parts out there, and an old tool rest often becoming a steady rest or similar platform I imagine the parts are out there, it would just require sourcing, and assembly of them.

Not owning a lathe since the ShopSmith went bye bye I am not current on pricing. It may well be that HF 12" MONSTER is going to be cheaper and be a sander all the time, and not interfere with lathe function. In that view you only need space. If I bought one, it would have been the HF. I know a few owners, and they aren't multi speed, but they are big and plenty badazz enough to get er done.


----------



## Keebler1

As easy as it is to change faceplates and tool rests it would be easy to switch back from a sander to lathe function


----------



## WoodenDreams

The miter bar on the Rikon must have very little slop. Seem that many of the lower quality or costing machines, the miter bar always have so much slop, the miter bar is useless for accuracy. I'm glad you mentioned the miter bar is being on @ 90 degree.

It would be nice to also put the review of these onto the "Review" section.


----------



## RyanGi

> The disc would be a cinch, the only difficulty would be figuring how to make something strong enough, and steady enough to mount to the Banjo to support a decent table. With all the accessory parts out there, and an old tool rest often becoming a steady rest or similar platform I imagine the parts are out there, it would just require sourcing, and assembly of them.
> 
> - therealSteveN


I wonder if you could have a post that sits in the banjo, then a yoke that would sit on the banjo body to give you two points of contact. I would think you'd want some sort of a tilting table on top of that so you could true it up against the disc. It's a neat idea.


----------



## pottz

> Very nice SteveN. I m on the fence about getting rid of my 4×36/9 inch combo. I used to use it constantly but since I build my grinder I rarely do. It is nice to have the wider surface on occasion though.
> 
> - HokieKen


ive got a delta that ive had for years and also it's big brother with 6" belt and 12" disc so with the new sander grinder coming i think it's time to get rid of mine too.im at the point when something comes in something will have to go out !


----------



## RyanGi

I've got a little Grizzly 4×24" oscillating sander that I use a ton. But I would like to have a 12" disc sander too. Ya know, to go with the 2×72" because you can never have enough…


----------



## therealSteveN

Zippppppp there went Ryan, rolling down that slippery slope. )

Yeah I'm at the bottom of the hill too.

I forgot to add on the 1×30, and the disc sander table on the big sander they all have good locks to get positive angle sets with accurate degree markings. That little strip sander just lacks 1 HP, and obviously isn't 2" wide, but for the low bux, it has a ton of versatility. Wife loves it, she was dressing some reed ends today. I may have to make an appointment to use the new sander…


----------



## Lazyman

> The disc would be a cinch, the only difficulty would be figuring how to make something strong enough, and steady enough to mount to the Banjo to support a decent table. With all the accessory parts out there, and an old tool rest often becoming a steady rest or similar platform I imagine the parts are out there, it would just require sourcing, and assembly of them.
> 
> - therealSteveN


Instead of using the tool rest, I have seen some make a platform (basically a box) that can lock into the ways with a bolt and wingnut. Makes for a solid large platform and doesn't require you to adjust the height every time.


----------



## RyanGi

SteveN there are so many slopes in my shop that I'm constantly sliding down one of them. I've gotten used to it.


----------



## therealSteveN

Most are fairly harmless too Ryan, except of course to your wallet. But if you are having fun, and getting new toys brings increased joy to the hobby, be like Nike, and just do it…..


----------



## RyanGi

> The disc would be a cinch, the only difficulty would be figuring how to make something strong enough, and steady enough to mount to the Banjo to support a decent table. With all the accessory parts out there, and an old tool rest often becoming a steady rest or similar platform I imagine the parts are out there, it would just require sourcing, and assembly of them.
> 
> - therealSteveN
> 
> Instead of using the tool rest, I have seen some make a platform (basically a box) that can lock into the ways with a bolt and wingnut. Makes for a solid large platform and doesn t require you to adjust the height every time.
> 
> - Lazyman


That seems reeeaalllyy simple. Gonna have to do that…


----------



## pottz

> Zippppppp there went Ryan, rolling down that slippery slope. )
> 
> Yeah I m at the bottom of the hill too.
> 
> I forgot to add on the 1×30, and the disc sander table on the big sander they all have good locks to get positive angle sets with accurate degree markings. That little strip sander just lacks 1 HP, and obviously isn t 2" wide, but for the low bux, it has a ton of versatility. Wife loves it, she was dressing some reed ends today. I may have to make an appointment to use the new sander…
> 
> - therealSteveN


yeah i love mine perfect fro small stuff.


----------



## EricFai

Here's my check in. All good, heading out of town for the weekend. We will be seeing Elton John, long awaited show.

I have a 12" disk on the Shopsmith, and a 4×36 belt with a 6" disk. Both work fine. But a narrow belt would be a nice addition.


----------



## DavePolaschek

One of these days I'll get started on a knife. Today I worked on a decorative turning of walnut and oak for the case that's going to hold my carving tools and chisels.










My sweetie said, "that's for a cabinet in the shop?!" I guess I'm getting better at the decorative bits.

Took about an hour to turn once I had sketched out the design and put marks on the chunk of wood.


----------



## EricFai

Looks nice Dave.


----------



## pottz

dave as a swapper all your energy and time should be devoted to your swap project.wives will come second ! well at least in my mind. sure as hell aint saying it out loud for gods sake !!!!!! ;-))


----------



## Keebler1

Nice Dave


----------



## EricFai

I was asked not to participate my mine, well you see how that went need to get busy on some gifts for Christmas.


----------



## pottz

> I was asked not to participate my mine, well you see how that went need to get busy on some gifts for Christmas.
> 
> - Eric


glad you made it.gotta do the same myself.this year is gonna be potpourri bowls ill turn on the lathe for all the ladies i do every year. seems early but it's gonna come real fast !


----------



## pottz

ok i thought about it and it's time to let this child go free ! so any of you guys,or gals that want this, it's yours for the cost of shipping.plus whatever discs and belts i have will be included ! so no yelling out,pm's only so as not to cause any hard feelings. i know your thinking,like he really cares !!!! hey im a sensitive guy !!!! i only do ups,so if that a problem let me know.if it is a problem…..well thats your problem !!!

oh ps,this is only for those on pottz patio and swappers,so others need not apply !


----------



## Lazyman

So tomorrow is the sign up deadline right? Looks like I will be skipping this one. I do have a knife that I've wanted to try making for a long time but it is probably way beyond my skill level and I don't want to send junk to someone. I may still build along with you guys but without the pressure to get it done by a deadline.


----------



## pottz

> So tomorrow is the sign up deadline right? Looks like I will be skipping this one. I do have a knife that I ve wanted to try making for a long time but it is probably way beyond my skill level and I don t want to send junk to someone. I may still build along with you guys but without the pressure to get it done by a deadline.
> 
> - Lazyman


cmom man,yes tomorrow is it for you dreamers !!!! get your ass in here dude,you know you wanna ? stop being….well,lazy !


----------



## therealSteveN

Nathan, it won't be the same without you being in. Whoever is cursed with my knife will probably wonder WTF. A little stress adds to the project. Is fun stress a thing, or maybe I'm just weird.


----------



## pottz

> Nathan, it won t be the same without you being in. Whoever is cursed with my knife will probably wonder WTF. A little stress adds to the project. Is fun stress a thing, or maybe I m just weird.
> 
> - therealSteveN


you heard george do want me stuck with his knife !!!!! ;-))


----------



## therealSteveN

I think Keebs already gave me your name….

Actually it's more of a SWORD, with a 4" blade. Well I had a bunch of wood, had to do something with it….


----------



## pottz

> I think Keebs already gave me your name….
> 
> Actually it s more of a SWORD, with a 4" blade. Well I had a bunch of wood, had to do something with it….
> 
> - therealSteveN


ha ha, hell i can handle whatever keebs throws at me george.even you ! ;-))


----------



## therealSteveN

This is my vision for your knife, not sure where the pink wood came from. Do you think the blade is too short? ))

Ohhhh I remember now, that isn't wood it's resin, that's your favorite right?


----------



## Keebler1

Yes pottz loves the resin work. I think i may send him a box of my scraps to play with


----------



## GR8HUNTER

if any1 takes pottz sander i got 2 of them for extra parts :<))))))))


----------



## Keebler1

If i didnt already have the wen version of that sander i would take it


----------



## DavePolaschek

> dave as a swapper all your energy and time should be devoted to your swap project.wives will come second ! well at least in my mind. sure as hell aint saying it out loud for gods sake !!!!!! ;-))


You're right, Pottz. I should just drop out, rather than being a disappointment.


----------



## Keebler1

Noone is allowed to drop out


----------



## Keebler1

Nathan send me the email. I know you wanna play. Tell your wife its peer pressure


----------



## EricFai

We need one more for an even number of participants. Let's go Nathan.


----------



## therealSteveN

Nathan, it's like spending $$$$$ it only hurts till the package comes in the mail. Jump on in, waters wet, but it will feel good versus the Texas heat.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

i did not realize till just now today is last day for joining :<)))

will we be getting names soon Keebs ? i have to personalize mine


----------



## Keebler1

Ill work on them this week. If things work out i will be in a dock door 3 or 4 hours monday morning


----------



## DavePolaschek

Picked out the wood for the scales this morning. Only broke one piece trying to trim it to size and slice it in half, and I think the glue line where I repaired it will disappear pretty well.


----------



## RyanGi

I got off shift this morning and got home. Grabbed some coffee and I'm shuffling about in the shop waiting for UPS to drop off the shiny new OBM 2×72, so I've got time to layout the scales for the swap. I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT I'M DOING!!!

I laid out a couple designs on cardboard, cut them out, fit them against the blanks to see if they seem balanced. Trim them down and see how I think they're gonna fit in my hand. How thick? How much to overcut them? Did I mention I've got no idea what Im doing??

We're going to a wedding this afternoon, and I go back on shift tomorrow, so I won't get much done this weekend, but now I'm contemplating wood choices. Do I make them match? Maybe make each one different, yet with some similar characteristic to tie them together? Ya know, I've got no idea what I'm doing here…

Im gonna get some more coffee. If anyone sees the UPS guy, tell him I'm inside and not to leave! That bastard is sneaky. I'll be right back out for the signature…


----------



## pottz

> Noone is allowed to drop out
> 
> - Keebler1


yeah as ive said before these swaps are like being in a gang,no one gets out alive ;-))


----------



## pottz

nathan where are you,come out of hiding man ?


----------



## Lazyman

I am out learning how to use toned lacquer to refinish some MCM walnut chairs for my wife's Xmas present from last year. I sat out the spring swap to strip and prep these chairs, some of which were wonky with loose joints and required me to disassemble and glue them back together. Since they were originally finished with toned lacquer I had to wait until it cooled off so I could spray the lacquer and toner outside. I do not have a paint booth so I have to do this outside. If it is too hot, the solvent in the lacquer flashes off before it hits the wood. I bought one of those Wagner finishing tent enclosures to help keep bugs and dust off and also help keep direct sunlight off of them as I work.

Stripped, sanded, sealed with base coat of lacquer, base coat smoothed with 3M gray pad and ready for toner:










The arms were all loose so I took them apart, re-glued and attach back to the side.

This is after toner was applied. The one on the right is the one above and the one on the left is my reference chair that I matched to the table. 








The arm chair is just a little too red so I will apply a light mist of a greenish toner (Van ******************** walnut brown) to bring the red down a notch. Requires a light touch so that it doesn't get too dark at the same time.


----------



## Keebler1

If you have a tent you can apply that laquer inside with the mini split on. Nice job Nathan they are looking good…...i gotta feeling I have a new registration email in my inbox


----------



## duckmilk

> I got off shift this morning and got home. Grabbed some coffee and I m shuffling about in the shop waiting for UPS to drop off the shiny new OBM 2×72, so I've got time to layout the scales for the swap. I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT I'M DOING!!!
> 
> I laid out a couple designs on cardboard, cut them out, fit them against the blanks to see if they seem balanced. Trim them down and see how I think they're gonna fit in my hand. How thick? How much to overcut them? Did I mention I've got no idea what Im doing??
> 
> We're going to a wedding this afternoon, and I go back on shift tomorrow, so I won't get much done this weekend, but now I m contemplating wood choices. Do I make them match? Maybe make each one different, yet with some similar characteristic to tie them together? Ya know, I've got no idea what I m doing here…
> 
> Im gonna get some more coffee. If anyone sees the UPS guy, tell him I m inside and not to leave! That bastard is sneaky. I'll be right back out for the signature…
> 
> - RyanGi


You know as much as I did making the hash knife, that was a first for me. Just plan on making multiples and keep the mistakes for yourself.
Sometimes I would try something and overnight, think of some better way, then pursue that the next day.


----------



## therealSteveN

> If you have a tent you can apply that laquer inside with the mini split on. Nice job Nathan they are looking good…...i gotta feeling I have a new registration email in my inbox
> 
> - Keebler1


Yay x 2!!!!


----------



## pottz

working on a rather unique knife myself but there is one and only one.i screw it up and thats it.but i also have a blank that i bought so im not worried.


----------



## Keebler1

Dont forget Pottz yoyr cost of entry was you making my swap knife as well


----------



## Lazyman

The tent is not fully enclosed. It is basically a backstop with a roof. Lacquer is some nasty stuff to have inside an unvented shop with the mini-split running. You gotta leave the door open and even then you would need to have an explosion proof exhaust fan (lacquer vapors are very flammable) moving a lot of the air out constantly. Even outside, a respirator with appropriate filters are absolutely necessary.

Sorry, I am going to sit this one out. Honey do list is pretty long. Plus, the various knives I have in mind are way more complicated than anything I have done before and each has too many places where a novice could screw them up. The ship date already looks too close to me and don't want to send something bad or worse, have to slap something together at the last minute.


----------



## DavePolaschek

Well, put a row of magnets into the backing board of my carving tools cabinet. After cutting the backing board from the half-sheet. Five rows of carving tools, with either 13 or 14 per row… somehow I think 50 magnets isn't going to be enough. Plus there are the three that I dropped onto the floor that bounced once and then stuck to something on the bounce. I figure they're as good as gone.

But it's coming together. I glued up the four sides of the carcasse, and once the backing board gets glued and screwed on tomorrow, I'll be able to cut off the front and then cut it in half to make the pair of doors. Still need to figure out a latch, but maybe I'll just use more magnets.

And just maybe, I'll have enough room for all of my carving tools and chisels for a few days, so I can have some bench space to work on a knife or two.


----------



## EricFai

Nathan, "Never to late, it's the thought that counts" for Christmas, you probably didn't say which year. So sign yourself up for the swap.


----------



## pottz

> Dont forget Pottz yoyr cost of entry was you making my swap knife as well
> 
> - Keebler1











i think your gonna love it,it's got a razor sharp edge,and i even monogrammed it for you !!!!!


----------



## EricFai

Good one Pottz.


----------



## Lazyman

> Nathan, "Never to late, it s the thought that counts" for Christmas, you probably didn t say which year. So sign yourself up for the swap.
> 
> - Eric


I may finally get out of the dog house, that is after I spray 2 or 3 topcoats of lacquer on them AND make new plywood seats for them AND get new sculpted foam AND cover them. This year I won't bite on that: "all I want for xmas this years is (add project here)". Nope, it is probably cheaper to buy jewelry.


----------



## Lazyman

Dave, we're going to need pictures.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

> Dont forget Pottz yoyr cost of entry was you making my swap knife as well
> 
> - Keebler1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i think your gonna love it,it s got a razor sharp edge,and i even monogrammed it for you !!!!!
> 
> - pottz


that is a really good knife if you perfected it :<))))


----------



## pottz

> Dont forget Pottz yoyr cost of entry was you making my swap knife as well
> 
> - Keebler1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i think your gonna love it,it s got a razor sharp edge,and i even monogrammed it for you !!!!!
> 
> - pottz
> 
> that is a really good knife if you perfected it :<))))
> 
> - GR8HUNTER


it's a one time tool so keebs can proudly say,nobody but me has one of these !


----------



## RyanGi

Will it be like the other one time tools that company makes and costs 6x what it should??


----------



## Keebler1

Coming from cali it would cost 10x what it should lol you laser engraved that right pottz? If not sounds like you need a new tool


----------



## pottz

> Will it be like the other one time tools that company makes and costs 6x what it should??
> 
> - RyanGi


if i were to sell it,oh yeah,how could i even put a price on a knife like that ?


----------



## duckmilk

Easy to sharpen too, just stick a new blade in it.


----------



## pottz

> Easy to sharpen too, just stick a new blade in it.
> 
> - duckmilk


exactly duck !


----------



## EricFai

Pottz, I may have to borrow your idea. I'm not a bladesmith you know.


----------



## pottz

> Pottz, I may have to borrow your idea. I m not a bladesmith you know.
> 
> - Eric


well it's patented,but ill do a royalty fee if you want ?


----------



## HokieKen

Pottz, very generous on the sander  I sure don't need it but it's a reqlly generous offer!

I went to Smoky Mountain Knife Works today and for the first time ever, I think I left empty-handed. I went to their knife making counter and was thinking I'd pick up on of their pieces of damascus scraps they usually sell pretty cheap for the swap. But they only had two and they were way too small for my purposes. Oh well, I guess I'll have yo use some of the 100 pounds of carbon steel I have that's always in my way anyway…


----------



## pottz

the sander is still up for grabs guys.shipping only ? im sure if i put it out to the forum it would go easy.probably will tomorrow.just dont need it anymore !


----------



## DavePolaschek

> Dave, we re going to need pictures.


Yeah. Not blogging this one Nathan, but it'll definitely get a project writeup.

But I'm holding off on blogging more until I know what's up with the new & improved Lumberjocks.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

> the sander is still up for grabs guys.shipping only ? im sure if i put it out to the forum it would go easy.probably will tomorrow.just dont need it anymore !
> 
> - pottz
> 
> 
> 
> dont forget to add i have 2 of them for unlimited parts just pay shipping :<)))))))
Click to expand...


----------



## pottz

nathan i still dont se your name on the lineup buddy,clock is tickin down ? your gonna wish you did !


----------



## therealSteveN

Odd number. Somebody gonna send themselves a knife? I'll volunteer if it makes the actual swapping easier.


----------



## pottz

> Odd number. Somebody gonna send themselves a knife? I ll volunteer if it makes the actual swapping easier.
> 
> - therealSteveN


no problem george i already did.


----------



## therealSteveN

I finished putting together the new big sander 6×48 with a 10" disc. I really like this thing, much much more ass than the old Sears 1/2hp that is currently out of commission. Plus the table for the disc is the real deal, complete with a gear actuated movement. Like the smaller sanding it went together quickly, no problems. The table is a heavy aluminum stamped affair, with a positive locking miter gauge. I now weight around 273, and I bore down on it enough to lift my feet off the ground, and no deflection, or movement from a dead 90 to the disc. That will be 99% of it's use more than likely, but if I need an angle the same works will hold it wherever you want it to.

The tracking of the belt is a one handed wheel, and it's conveniently right next to the power switch. My older Sears required 2 wrenches one on either side of the belt, and the power switch was on the far side of the machine, so it required 2 people, 1 to power it up, and 1 to track it. Otherwise if the tracking was off by the time you got around to shut it down, the belt was ripped up. Very low engineering value in it's making, this new Rikon works like you would want it to.

It also has a throw, like on a bandsaw blade tensioner for the belt tension. That old Sears sure doesn't have one of those. Makes for super quick, and easy belt changes. I know most use these with one belt. I prefer to change grits, for the part of sanding I am currently doing. I find it more efficient, and overall much faster to get where I want to be.

The only glitch, is I bragged about the decal on the miter gauge too soon. I didn't really look to see if I can adjust it to dead on or not? Probably can.










Power side of it.










Big sanders new base, plenty of storage room below for belts, discs, and associated stuff. At some time in the future I'll make a cabinet in the middle part, and just put belts below that. Height looks tall, but for me it's perfect and no backache, bending over it on those runt legs.


----------



## splintergroup

> Odd number. Somebody gonna send themselves a knife? I ll volunteer if it makes the actual swapping easier.
> 
> - therealSteveN


Naw, just form a circle of names, then link to the next name going CCW 8^)


----------



## splintergroup

> the sander is still up for grabs guys.shipping only ? im sure if i put it out to the forum it would go easy.probably will tomorrow.just dont need it anymore !
> 
> - pottz


I have that same sander inherited from the FIL. Sits on the floor underneath the 16/32. Makes a hell of a noise when running (universal motor), handy to clear the dogs out of the shop during a thunder storm or whatever made them decide to seek sanctuary.


----------



## pottz

> the sander is still up for grabs guys.shipping only ? im sure if i put it out to the forum it would go easy.probably will tomorrow.just dont need it anymore !
> 
> - pottz
> 
> I have that same sander inherited from the FIL. Sits on the floor underneath the 16/32. Makes a hell of a noise when running (universal motor), handy to clear the dogs out of the shop during a thunder storm or whatever made them decide to seek sanctuary.
> 
> - splintergroup


yeah they are noisy !


----------



## Keebler1

Everyone should have recipients by now. If you dont see it and it didnt go to spam let me know. If you need anything else or for some reason your recipient doesnt work let me know.


----------



## Keebler1

Got to church this morning and went to turn on the preachers projectors for his stage set and one was going between a blue screen and the picture. Swapped the hdmi cable and that fixed that one but in the process managed to unplug the computers and one was an apple with no monitor. The middle projector is now out. Couldnt get it to work and I was fighting with my A/V guy for help(i am not on the av team) and we get to a point we think it needs a new hdmi cable. At 0945 i go to walmart to get one when church starts at 1015. Get back and 2 other guys are helping. Turns out av guy had another hdmi cable he forgot about. Replaced that cable and realized the connection at the projector isnt the best but we got it working. Now i sit waiting on my load to get ready so i can go to houston tx with it. Anyone want to take a drive….


----------



## EricFai

Keebler, received. Thanks.


----------



## pottz

got it keebs.


----------



## RyanGi

Busy morning Keebs!


----------



## GR8HUNTER

got my victim :<)))))


----------



## HokieKen

Got my victim too!

There was some discussion about belt storage last week. Here's what works for me:


----------



## RyanGi

Nice Kenny, looks like an easy setup.


----------



## pottz

> Got my victim too!
> 
> There was some discussion about belt storage last week. Here's what works for me:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - HokieKen


perfect use of wasted space in a shop.


----------



## WoodenDreams

Another good idea to store sanding belts, is on a closet rod hanging under a shelf.


----------



## pottz

if i hung that in our closet my wife would divorce me !!!! ;-))


----------



## RyanGi

Right Pottz…I'm sure THAT would be the straw that broke the camels back…


----------



## WoodenDreams

This is the walk-in closet I use for storing hardware, finishes and portable shop tools. Off my shop.


----------



## pottz

> This is the walk-in closet I use for storing hardware, finishes and portable shop tools. Off my shop.
> 
> - WoodenDreams


ok,that makes sense then. any closet in my house the wife has already claimed a long time ago !!!!!


----------



## WoodenDreams

oops


----------



## pottz

> May this is a better view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - WoodenDreams


looks upside down ?


----------



## WoodenDreams

Maybe I'll get the picture right. My phone app doesn't have a preview tab. Had to turn on the computer to correct it.


----------



## therealSteveN

> Got to church this morning and went to turn on the preachers projectors for his stage set and one was going between a blue screen and the picture. Swapped the hdmi cable and that fixed that one but in the process managed to unplug the computers and one was an apple with no monitor. The middle projector is now out. Couldnt get it to work and I was fighting with my A/V guy for help(i am not on the av team) and we get to a point we think it needs a new hdmi cable. At 0945 i go to walmart to get one when church starts at 1015. Get back and 2 other guys are helping. Turns out av guy had another hdmi cable he forgot about. Replaced that cable and realized the connection at the projector isnt the best but we got it working. Now i sit waiting on my load to get ready so i can go to houston tx with it. Anyone want to take a drive….
> 
> - Keebler1


Do you normally get a Nappy before hitting the road? Might be a long night….

COFFEE lots of CAFFIENE. be safe

I'm good on swap party, errrr victim. ))

Dayummmm Kenny. I thought I had an assortment of grits and such. I am but a poser in a world of CHAMPIONS.

Richard, looks like you have a sandapalooza room going on. I know I'm a mere beginner now. I could only fill a third of that.


----------



## pottz

now that pick is better-lol. hey maybe the new software coming…...well in hours, will fix that issue ?


----------



## Keebler1

First when posting pics from your phone if you go into your photo and edit just crop the image slightly doesn't have to be much it will post correctly

George sometimes i get a nap before heading out. Other times there either isnt enough time or i wind up tossing and turning . Either way coffee is my friend


----------



## pottz

> First when posting pics from your phone if you go into your photo and edit just crop the image slightly doesn't have to be much it will post correctly
> 
> George sometimes i get a nap before heading out. Other times there either isnt enough time or i wind up tossing and turning . Either way coffee is my friend
> 
> - Keebler1


ive heard you truckers all use speed ? hey where is that free chicken the"fell" off the truck buddy ?


----------



## Keebler1

Got some free bacon last week


----------



## pottz

> Got some free bacon last week
> 
> - Keebler1


yeah,ill bet you did ! hey,i like bacon ;-))


----------



## RyanGi

Am I the first one back on? Hello?? Testing… is thing on??


----------



## duckmilk

Evidently, I was wondering about this site coming back on.


----------



## pottz

RyanGi said:


> Am I the first one back on? Hello?? Testing… is thing on??


im here i think,just wandering around trying to find anybody i know.


----------



## therealSteveN

Seems like it took a LOT longer than I had imagined. But no idea what all was involved, it may have just been a massive amount of data getting migrated with slow hard drives? Or maybe it was just more problematic than Cricket counted on? Heck, I got older while gone. I do know that I just happened to come across this thread. So far I don't like anything much about the new version, because nothing is where it's supposed to be. I liked the old page, that just had the most active threads on page 1. Seemed like that made sense. With this pile of ooze ya gotta swim through a lotta crap to find the terlit. 

Yes I AM a cantankerous old fart, and change is a lot like a 4 letter word.


----------



## jeffswildwood

Just found out it was back on. No more projects? Or maybe I can't find them. Edit, I found them.


----------



## pottz

therealSteveN said:


> Seems like it took a LOT longer than I had imagined. But no idea what all was involved, it may have just been a massive amount of data getting migrated with slow hard drives? Or maybe it was just more problematic than Cricket counted on? Heck, I got older while gone. I do know that I just happened to come across this thread. So far I don't like anything much about the new version, because nothing is where it's supposed to be. I liked the old page, that just had the most active threads on page 1. Seemed like that made sense. With this pile of ooze ya gotta swim through a lotta crap to find the terlit.
> 
> Yes I AM a cantankerous old fart, and change is a lot like a 4 letter word.


i hear ya,same way for me but it will be good once we figure it all out.


----------



## HokieKen

We're back! And we have emojis! Welcome to 1995 folks 

I think projects are now called "showcase" Jeff.


----------



## jeffswildwood

Steven, I'm with you. I like the old version much better. I always liked looking at others projects, they were right there on the front page but now you have to search for them. Of coarse that was "top 15" but one click took you to all of them. 

But I am another that don't like change.


----------



## jeffswildwood

HokieKen said:


> We're back! And we have emojis! Welcome to 1995 folks
> 
> I think projects are now called "showcase" Jeff.


I found them finally, then seen my latest project (Veterans box for auction) disappeared after I viewed it. I had to change settings so it would come back. We need a "lunberjocks school". Ha


----------



## pottz

jeffswildwood said:


> I found them finally, then seen my latest project (Veterans box for auction) disappeared after I viewed it. I had to change settings so it would come back. We need a "lunberjocks school". Ha


yeah i liked seeing all the projects,sorry "showcases" on the same page too.hey at least those stupid top 3 are gone.


jeffswildwood said:


> I found them finally, then seen my latest project (Veterans box for auction) disappeared after I viewed it. I had to change settings so it would come back. We need a "lunberjocks school". Ha


----------



## bigblockyeti

therealSteveN said:


> Seems like it took a LOT longer than I had imagined. But no idea what all was involved, it may have just been a massive amount of data getting migrated with slow hard drives? Or maybe it was just more problematic than Cricket counted on? Heck, I got older while gone. I do know that I just happened to come across this thread. So far I don't like anything much about the new version, because nothing is where it's supposed to be. I liked the old page, that just had the most active threads on page 1. Seemed like that made sense. With this pile of ooze ya gotta swim through a lotta crap to find the terlit.
> 
> Yes I AM a cantankerous old fart, and change is a lot like a 4 letter word.


I suspect the massive increase in screen space dedicated to adversing instead of content probably ate up a bit more bandwidth than was originally anticipated. The look is not bad, the location of everything and the interface thus far is a downgrade. I like change when it's for the better, this is not.


----------



## RyanGi

Well, since I’ve missed you all for like 2 days, I’ll update with my excitement in the shop: the OMB 2x72” grinder arrived! Pretty simple to set it up and align it. I’ve still got some more tweaking to do, but we’re going in the right direction. On the downside, it doesn’t come with a belt, and the ones I ordered from TruGrit sure seem to be taking their sweet time. So, to help with setup, I made my self a genuine, custom designed and built blue painters tape 72” belt. Yes folks, for the low introductory price of $34.99 I’ll be happy to make one for you too! Shipping included…

















P


----------



## Lazyman

Nice, Ryan! I'll bet that blue belt leaves a really fine finish.


----------



## HokieKen

Looking good Ryan!


----------



## Lazyman

therealSteveN said:


> Yes I AM a cantankerous old fart, and change is a lot like a 4 letter word.


Hey!, you kids get off my lawn. ?


----------



## duckmilk

Lazyman said:


> Nice, Ryan! I'll bet that blue belt leaves a really fine finish.


I'll bet it leaves a bit of a sticky residue though. 

Got my belt hanging solution finished yesterday.










Just enough room under it to be able to sweep the floor.


----------



## duckmilk

One thing this new site doesn't have is a way to edit your post afterward, at least I haven't found a way to yet.


----------



## DavePolaschek

Been working on my carving tools till. Here’s the latest photos. The first are the turned decorative bits that will go on the doors. Sawed the turning in half today at the bandsaw and kept the cut straight across the whole 20 inches of length.










This is one of the (two) doors. There’s storage for six carving tools or chisels on each side of it, plus an internal door which will hold 13 tools per side, and then the back of the cabinet, which will hold 14 tools. Drilled a 1/4” hole for a magnet for every tool, and the magnets seem to hold them securely.










It’ll be a few days before I’m ready to post the showcase (project), but progress continues…

I also have the wood for the knife scales picked out and ready to go as soon as i clear space on my bench. So I’ve got that going for me.


----------



## DavePolaschek

duckmilk said:


> One thing this new site doesn't have is a way to edit your post afterward, at least I haven't found a way to yet.


On your own post, click the hamburger menu (the three vertical dots) on the right side of the post. If it’s someone else’s post, you’ll only see “Report” and “Only show this user”, but if it’s your own post, you’ll have “Edit” as a choice.









edited to add: photo and confirmation that it works.


----------



## pottz

DavePolaschek said:


> On your own post, click the hamburger menu (the three vertical dots) on the right side of the post. If it’s someone else’s post, you’ll only see “Report” and “Only show this user”, but if it’s your own post, you’ll have “Edit” as a choice.
> View attachment 3852992
> 
> 
> edited to add: photo and confirmation that it works.


love the picture quality,much better resolution.


----------



## EricFai

Still trying to navigate through this now, to many changes. Can't seem to find favorites that I bookmarked as possible projects for me to build.

I'll see, might take a bit of getting used too.


----------



## duckmilk

Thanks Dave, I'll try that out. Decorative bits (like finials?) look great.

Just tried it, it works! There is also a report option, like for Pottzy


----------



## bigblockyeti

It keeps being referred to as an improvement but it seems the improve part was omitted.


----------



## pottz

EricFai said:


> Still trying to navigate through this now, to many changes. Can't seem to find favorites that I bookmarked as possible projects for me to build.
> 
> I'll see, might take a bit of getting used too.


i see your now listed as ericfai,is that what you signed up as originally ? rich is now richtaylor.he asked cricket to change it back but she says it's already taken ? i see a bunch of names have changed.


----------



## pottz

duckmilk said:


> Thanks Dave, I'll try that out. Decorative bits (like finials?) look great.
> 
> Just tried it, it works! There is also a report option, like for Pottzy


damn, new forum and im already on the [email protected]#t list ! good thing there is no dislike button


----------



## bigblockyeti

That's odd, I thought this stuff was supposedly going to auto-populate as it was. I feel like we're the first 1000' into the Challenger flight.


----------



## TravisH

pottz said:


> damn, new forum and im already on the [email protected]#t list ! good thing there is no dislike button


 Better yet one can select the angry face from the like tab.


----------



## RyanGi

Jesus…so, I know I’m impatient, I own that. I knew I was going to want to mess with this new belt grinder and I knew the belt order I made was delayed, so I ordered a couple cheapy belts off Amazon so I’d have something to screw around with. And just to hedge my bets, I ordered some 12” PSA sanding discs so I’d have a backup project in case this grinder got delayed (imma build a disc sander attachment setup for my lathe). All this as prep for making these knives that I’ve got no idea what I’m doing with 

Well, Amazon just bricked on both those orders ‘sorry, they’re delayed’. I go back on shift tomorrow which means it’ll be at least a few days before I get home and get to play more. 

Weak! I’m gonna go shower and have a beer. Or have a beer and shower. Or shower with a beer…. ?


----------



## GR8HUNTER

i worked on something today most of the day only to find out it does not work NOW WHAT  ? ?


----------



## duckmilk

Ryan, go to Combat Abrasives ,they ship very quickly, and you can see if what you want is in stock. And, have a beer before and after.

Tony, only one thing to do...start over


----------



## pottz

bigblockyeti said:


> That's odd, I thought this stuff was supposedly going to auto-populate as it was. I feel like we're the first 1000' into the Challenger flight.


well for the most part it has,just had to work with the new software.


----------



## pottz

RyanGi said:


> Jesus…so, I know I’m impatient, I own that. I knew I was going to want to mess with this new belt grinder and I knew the belt order I made was delayed, so I ordered a couple cheapy belts off Amazon so I’d have something to screw around with. And just to hedge my bets, I ordered some 12” PSA sanding discs so I’d have a backup project in case this grinder got delayed (imma build a disc sander attachment setup for my lathe). All this as prep for making these knives that I’ve got no idea what I’m doing with
> 
> Well, Amazon just bricked on both those orders ‘sorry, they’re delayed’. I go back on shift tomorrow which means it’ll be at least a few days before I get home and get to play more.
> 
> Weak! I’m gonna go shower and have a beer. Or have a beer and shower. Or shower with a beer…. ?


thats the spirit buddy. although i find it waters my wine down too much !


----------



## EricFai

Pottz, I signed up as EriFai. So yeah it me, changed a few things. Still not sure if I like this improved (disapproval).


----------



## pottz

GR8HUNTER said:


> i worked on something today most of the day only to find out it does not work NOW WHAT  ? ?


ya take the lemons and make lemonade buddy.or ya go on etsy and buy a project like i do most of the time ?


----------



## pottz

EricFai said:


> Pottz, I signed up as EriFai. So yeah it me, changed a few things. Still not sure if I like this improved (disapproval).


i think thats whats happened with a lot of guys here,it's reverted back to their original sign on name .just have cricket fix it.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

duckmilk said:


> Ryan, go to Combat Abrasives ,they ship very quickly, and you can see if what you want is in stock. And, have a beer before and after.
> 
> Tony, only one thing to do...start over


thanks for that link duck i just made an order ??


----------



## GR8HUNTER

pottz said:


> ya take the lemons and make lemonade buddy.or ya go on etsy and buy a project like i do most of the time ?


just saying i ordererd a kit for something i made it professionally today and the thing says it will fit in does not fit in ??


----------



## pottz

GR8HUNTER said:


> thanks for that link duck i just made an order ??
> View attachment 3853050


yeah im gonna try em myself.


----------



## Keebler1

So do we still get emails to new posts in this thread like we used to?


----------



## bigblockyeti

I've used Benchmark abrasives and have been quite pleased thus far, their flap discs especially are nice and thick, seem to last double what you can by at the BORG. Has anyone else's avatar done anything weird? I'm a sucker for "used" deal from Amazon too as I suspect they're just returns that need to be unloaded for an often heavy discount.


----------



## RyanGi

Thanks Duck. I’ll take a look!


----------



## EricFai

I'm still trying to find all the buddies I had.


----------



## Lazyman

Keebler1 said:


> So do we still get emails to new posts in this thread like we used to?


I am. I just went into the profile and preferences to turn those off.


----------



## bigblockyeti

I can't find most of what was right there before.

I'm getting emails too, that I didn't used to. Sigh. . . . . . .I'd rather not just block everything LJ in my inbox but it's looking like I'll have to.


----------



## Cricket

Can I ask a huge favor of y'all?

Can we keep all feedback, questions, concerns, requests for help, etc., regarding the new platform in our *Community Feedback* thread rather than starting new threads?









Community Feedback: New Forum Software Is Live!


We are excited to announce that we are live on our new forum platform! It’s been a long time coming. Let’s face it. Sometimes older forum technology lags behind other parts of the internet. Although seeing the same format for a long time is comforting, the member experience shouldn’t include...




www.lumberjocks.com





The reason this is important is that we will be seeing *regular updates**,* which are largely fueled by community feedback. While that doesn't mean we can action every request, it does mean we are actively listening to the feedback and sharing it with the developers. By keeping all of the information in one thread, we can help make sure that we don't miss anything.

We absolutely *want to hear all of the feedback, both good and bad.*

We are just asking that it be posted to the community feedback thread.


----------



## pottz

Keebler1 said:


> So do we still get emails to new posts in this thread like we used to?


yes you can set up what you wanna see or dont.go to your settigs.when it first went live my email was flooded.ive gone on and adjusted what i get.

sorry cricket i should have advised him.


----------



## Keebler1

A bolt action I turned a month or so back


----------



## therealSteveN

Evidently what I did wasn't approved, as most of it didn't post, yet when I went to edit it, it still showed it here. Losing interest quickly.


----------



## therealSteveN

bigblockyeti said:


> I can't find most of what was right there before.
> 
> I'm getting emails too, that I didn't used to. Sigh. . . . . . .I'd rather not just block everything LJ in my inbox but it's looking like I'll have to.


I was getting them all too, and before I had stopped them all, seems like unless they were a PM, those came through, but I also got notified of them on the site, so I rarely went to the email I use here, unless I was getting in touch with someone, and expecting their response.

I went to filters, and picked the "only getting from" and typed in Santa, so unless we have a member here I won't get all the threads.


----------



## pottz

therealSteveN said:


> Evidently what I did wasn't approved, as most of it didn't post, yet when I went to edit it, it still showed it here. Losing interest quickly.


you'll get there,just gonna take some time.


----------



## BigShooter

I had some time in between taking the boat out for the season and bird hunting on Saturday, so I started my knife and "extra".


----------



## recycle1943

this is my weekly check in -


----------



## duckmilk

I haven't been getting all the emails like some of you and I didn't change anything.

Hi Dick, glad to see you pop in here!


----------



## ToddJB

Hey kids, I just saw this thread, I see I'm past the deadline, but I'd love to join if the group is willing. 

If not, no worries.


----------



## pottz

ToddJB said:


> Hey kids, I just saw this thread, I see I'm past the deadline, but I'd love to join if the group is willing.
> 
> If not, no worries.


id love to see ya join but if you know keebs he stringent !!!! there was another the day after that wanted to get in but missed the deadline,no luck.problem now is all the assignments have been made so it be hard to add guys i think.


----------



## pottz

BigShooter said:


> I had some time in between taking the boat out for the season and bird hunting on Saturday, so I started my knife and "extra".


glad you joined us we can always use new people.plus your gonna have fun.


----------



## recycle1943

Thanks duck, I’ve been around just haven’t had anything constructive to contribute.


----------



## ToddJB

pottz said:


> id love to see ya join but if you know keebs he stringent !!!! there was another the day after that wanted to get in but missed the deadline,no luck.problem now is all the assignments have been made so it be hard to add guys i think.


No prob. Deadlines are deadlines. In my heart I'll just blame Kenny for this.


----------



## DavePolaschek

ToddJB said:


> In my heart I'll just blame Kenny


That’s always worked for me. Sorry you missed out, Todd.


----------



## duckmilk

Hey Todd, good to see you here. I didn't join either but I'll be following, Join us followers anyway.


----------



## ToddJB

They don't call me Todd "sheep" Blackstone for nothing, Duck.


----------



## therealSteveN

Is there any understanding why the Beer swap, and knife swap were moved to "Marketplace Classifieds" Not sure it's self explanatory?


----------



## RyanGi

I noticed that too..weird…


----------



## Keebler1

*Four beer CEO's gather for a conference.*

At lunch, they each order a beverage with their meal.

The Anheuser CEO orders a Bud Light.

The Coors CEO orders a Coors Light.

The Miller CEO orders a Miller Lite.

The Leinenkugel CEO orders a lemonade.

Taken aback, the others ask why the CEO of Leinenkugel has not ordered a like beverage. The Leinenkugel CEO answers with, "If none of you are going to have a beer, then neither will I."


----------



## Keebler1




----------



## recycle1943

Keebler1 said:


> *Four beer CEO's gather for a conference.*
> 
> At lunch, they each order a beverage with their meal.
> 
> The Anheuser CEO orders a Bud Light.
> 
> The Coors CEO orders a Coors Light.
> 
> The Miller CEO orders a Miller Lite.
> 
> The Leinenkugel CEO orders a lemonade.
> 
> Taken aback, the others ask why the CEO of Leinenkugel has not ordered a like beverage. The Leinenkugel CEO answers with, "If none of you are going to have a beer, then neither will I."


Funny thing, Leinenkugel makes some interesting beers and I've broken away from Anheuser and tried a couple of them.


----------



## HokieKen

therealSteveN said:


> Is there any understanding why the Beer swap, and knife swap were moved to "Marketplace Classifieds" Not sure it's self explanatory?


I think because they were in the “Trade and Swap” section on the old site and “Marketplace”is the equivalent on the new UI.


----------



## HokieKen

Keebler1 said:


> *Four beer CEO's gather for a conference.*
> 
> At lunch, they each order a beverage with their meal.
> 
> The Anheuser CEO orders a Bud Light.
> 
> The Coors CEO orders a Coors Light.
> 
> The Miller CEO orders a Miller Lite.
> 
> The Leinenkugel CEO orders a lemonade.
> 
> Taken aback, the others ask why the CEO of Leinenkugel has not ordered a like beverage. The Leinenkugel CEO answers with, "If none of you are going to have a beer, then neither will I."


😂😂😂


----------



## DavePolaschek

They’ve been moved, but Ken had it right. I pointed out to Cricket that I wouldn’t be able to find swaps in the new world, and she shuffled things around.


----------



## therealSteveN

Ok. I guess because of how "I" viewed my feeds at the old site, I wasn't aware it was in swaps, it was always just on the first page, and therefore always right there. Actually on the very few times it wasn't on page 1, I would post stupid stuff like Hello, hello, hello, asking if anyone was in there?

I do see now there is a brand spanking new category for "SWAPS" and it is just awash with past swaps of all types. A good thing.

Missing the old site as much as ever, said the cranky old fart....

Keebs, that was a great funny. 

Now the Costner one, not so much....


----------



## therealSteveN

Ok, posting this here because I care about you peeps. I know some of you do Social disease, errrrr I mean media. I do NOT. I've said more than once this is as close as I play in that game. My reasoning is Privacy, and personal freedoms, both of which you tend to surrender IMHO doing the social media thing.

Anyhow I found by selecting a lot of different tabs answers to 2 things. If you haven't noticed them, you may also want to intervene. 


First I noted these "ALERTS" I was getting them for almost every keystroke I made, and I still haven't found a way to get rid of the ones I had created, but hopefully I won't continue to get them.


Under Alerts, it opens and there is a row of choices on the left side, look for preferences. 

There is an exhaustive list of things you can get an alert for. I personally don't need a reminder of what I have done, or to remind me to check back in, so I switched all of mine OFF. 

I'm still clueless about "PUSH" so I nuked them too. I think they are ALERTs that are forcibly jammed down your throat though.


The other thing I found was "PRIVACY" and evidently by default every BOT, and scammer/spammer in the universe is privy to everything about you, and can look and see it all, at least this exhaustive list made it appear if it's on this site, it's wide open to anyone. 


Click your little icon, and go into ACCOUNT SETTINGS, again on the left is PRIVACY. Again a long list of everything you can give permissions to anything to see. Again I switched every one of mne off unless you were at least a member. Remember looking at the who is online list, and there would be 3 members, and 2,734 OTHER.... It's them I worry about, because I don't believe they are woodworkers.


Your choices here are: visitors, Members only, People you follow, and nobody.

"VISITORS" IOW BOTS and such.

Members Only: At least they signed up, but so did so many of the spammer/scammer crowd.

People you follow, looks safer than the entire universe. 

NOBODY, I mean if it's Private, yeah I get that too.

If you make changes hit SAVE, yes you can swap back if you find it lonely without the bots rooting through your stuff


Ok, thats all I gots right now, but if you find a nugget, post it up. You's guys are like fambly.


----------



## EricFai

Thank you Dave P. I will look into them later. 

Thank you SteveN, I need to go into the account and see what everything is set to. Might eliminate a few selections from the defaults.

This will take a bit to get used to, but I think most will adapt after awhile.


----------



## Keebler1

The liners yall put under your knife scales how thick are those?


----------



## HokieKen

If you're talking about G10 Keebler, you can buy it in a variety of thicknesses and colors.


----------



## Keebler1

If thats what you use for liners yes. I am 3d printing some and need main thickness yall use


----------



## HokieKen

1/32 or 1/16” are probably the most common thicknesses.


----------



## Keebler1

Lets welcome ToddJB to the swap


----------



## GR8HUNTER

Keebler1 said:


> Lets welcome ToddJB to the swap


if you can i say hell yes he make kewl swap stuff not sure how when names went out . WILL WE GET NEW NAMES ?


----------



## EricFai

Guess Keebler wanted an even number in the swap. I guess we will be waiting for the new list of shipping items. 

I need to get busy on mine.


----------



## duckmilk

Glad Keebs let you in Todd!

Do I have to go back to page 1 to see the list of participants? Or is there a way to keep it at the top of the page. Doing this on a laptop.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

duckmilk said:


> Glad Keebs let you in Todd!
> 
> Do I have to go back to page 1 to see the list of participants? Or is there a way to keep it at the top of the page. Doing this on a laptop.


YOU MIGHT AS well join in duck come on man LOL


----------



## EricFai

Duck, I just went back to the first page. And yes using the laptop now, moving up in the world.


----------



## HokieKen

Keebler1 said:


> Lets welcome ToddJB to the swap


Todd is a stud


----------



## HokieKen

One of my few complaints so far with the new UI. The OP is no longer at the top of each page. It’s just the first comment in the thread.


----------



## duckmilk

To your comment on Todd.


----------



## Keebler1

Only had to change 1 persons recipient and he should already have the info on that. Wont say who it was so it is harder to guess who has who


----------



## pottz

Keebler1 said:


> Lets welcome ToddJB to the swap


welcome toddjb 😁 does that mean he's watching or participating ?


----------



## pottz

pottz said:


> welcome toddjb 😁 does that mean he's watching or participating ?


ok should have read further before asking.what about,there was someone else that wanted in ?


----------



## HokieKen

pottz said:


> ok should have read further before asking.what about,there was someone else that wanted in ?


Who was it? I say we work em in. I’m fine with my name being reshuffled. I just ordered materials for my project so I’m nowhere near being ready to personalize anything yet.


----------



## pottz

HokieKen said:


> Who was it? I say we work em in. I’m fine with my name being reshuffled. I just ordered materials for my project so I’m nowhere near being ready to personalize anything yet.


i forget kenny,you'll have to look back about a week i think.it was a day after the deadline,sunday i think.hey im good with it.im just gonna send a knife to everybody. 🤣


----------



## Keebler1

Pottz i looked back and didnt see it if you do let me know who or have him message me before the weekend is up


----------



## HokieKen

pottz said:


> i forget kenny,you'll have to look back about a week i think.it was a day after the deadline,sunday i think.hey im good with it.im just gonna send a knife to everybody. 🤣





Keebler1 said:


> Pottz i looked back and didnt see it if you do let me know who or have him message me before the weekend is up


I looked back too and didn't see anything pottz. I think you might be thinking about the Beer Swap thread? There was a guy who posted over there that he was sorry he had missed it a week or so ago. It's way too late for me to let him in on that one though


----------



## Lazyman

I am surprised no one in the beer swap sent him their name. A missed opportunity for some free beer.


----------



## ToddJB

Keebler1 said:


> Lets welcome ToddJB to the swap


Thanks. Just went out to the shop and did some digging around and looks like I should already have most of the materials I need for what's been jumbling around in my head. Time to get some specifics down on paper.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

HokieKen said:


> Who was it? I say we work em in. I’m fine with my name being reshuffled. I just ordered materials for my project so I’m nowhere near being ready to personalize anything yet.


unless he is a NOOB 🤪


----------



## GR8HUNTER

HokieKen said:


> I looked back too and didn't see anything pottz. I think you might be thinking about the Beer Swap thread? There was a guy who posted over there that he was sorry he had missed it a week or so ago. It's way too late for me to let him in on that one though


POTTZ is gettting confused Led Zeppelin - Dazed And Confused (Official Audio) - YouTube


----------



## recycle1943

Keebler1 said:


> The liners yall put under your knife scales how thick are those?


LINERS ?? nobody told me anything about liners. I guess whomever I get will not get a properly done knife so I'll have to make up the difference with something else


----------



## Keebler1

Dick if you send a couple of beers they jave a tendency to forget any shortcomings


----------



## HokieKen

recycle1943 said:


> LINERS ?? nobody told me anything about liners. I guess whomever I get will not get a properly done knife so I'll have to make up the difference with something else


Liners are unnecessary Dick. They are usually just for looks.


----------



## Keebler1

Dick theonly reason I asked about them is because of what I plan on doing using 3d print material as liners is cheaper than buying the mold I would need otherwise


----------



## RyanGi

Liners???? No one told me there’s be liners….did I mention I’ve got. I idea what I’m doing here??


----------



## JD77

Keebler1 said:


> Pottz i looked back and didnt see it if you do let me know who or have him message me before the weekend is up


Dang it Keebs, quit offering to extend the enrollment. It wasn't me, but I've been avoiding the temptation of the swap banter cause I knew I wouldn't have the time to actually work on a project. I'm afraid its time to start focusing on Christmas presents with the shop time I do have.


----------



## EricFai

I don't think I'll have liner on the item I'm making, but there will be a spline. Does that count?


----------



## pottz

recycle1943 said:


> LINERS ?? nobody told me anything about liners. I guess whomever I get will not get a properly done knife so I'll have to make up the difference with something else


yeah what are liners ? ive never used em and ive not had any issues !


----------



## pottz

well no ones getting any stinkin liners,except maybe a few (one liners) 🤣


----------



## Lazyman

The liners that Kenny showed appear to perform a function besides being decorative. They separate the moving parts of the folding knife and keep them from rubbing against the scales and probably make the folding mechanism more stable. Without them, the scales would be all that is holding the folding mechanism together. Folding knives often have brass plates there. On a full tang knife, they are probably purely decorative.


----------



## pottz

ok i found the guy i was thinking he wanted to join the knife swap.it was (klynn) but he as talking about the beer swap.see im not totally crazy.......😵


----------



## Keebler1

Gonna build an arcade cabinet this year so gonna have to break down 3/4 ply. Looking at either this bora setup








Or this wen track saw setup








Which would yall suggest?


----------



## Lazyman

I would go with the real track saw. I've read some negative reviews of the Bora clamp on guide. One consideration is whether the Wen track is long enough to cut the length of a full sheet of plywood, should you need to do that. Personally, I just use a circular saw and ride the saw along some rails similar to the Bora rail set. I usually just break it down into smaller pieces that I can cut on the table saw.


----------



## HokieKen

I do the same as Nathan. I like to get to final dimensions with the table saw. Too much variability in how you clamp down the rail guide unless you have a true tracksaw. I know the Festool is good but haven't read much about the Wen.


----------



## EricFai

I do the break down of sheet stock with a piece of hardboard attached to a piece of plywood (creating a fence) that I ran through the table saw. The hardboard was cut after so it's set the the shoe of the circular saw. Actually have 2, 1 being 8' and the other 4'

Cheap way to make a track saw.


----------



## Keebler1

Came home to a failure








So I had to turn a win.








DaveP that is the second casting of cholla I have turned but the first pen. Can't show the first as it is a swap item


----------



## Keebler1

That pen is sanded to 600 grit then used polishing pastes up to 140k to polish it. You can't feel a difference between the cholla and the resin.


----------



## RyanGi

So I finally got belts for the 2x72 (much appreciate the recommendations for what to get!). I spent some time on the Metal side of the shop whipping up a dust trap for the new grinder. I did a couple test runs and found that mine keeps most of the dust right below the platen. I was actually pretty happy with the build. Dusted off the small press brake, broke out the plasma cutter, and reminded myself I don’t weld sheet metal too well. However, the new grinder got a little work out cleaning up my crappy welds and shaping some other parts. I think I’ll probably powder coat it but I ran out of steam today.

I have a MagPort coupler on my auxiliary 4” DC hose, which works out really nicely since the dust trap is metal! Obviously I’m not going to use it for grinding metal, but I’ve got a spare MagPort coupler that I lined with aluminum foil for now. I sized a lacquer can I had in the cabinet and I think it’ll fit fine…so when it’s empty I’ll probably ditch the foil and put that on. I figure I can put some water in the can to act as a hot slag trap.

I’ve still got some tweaking to do with the grinder, but I’m pretty happy with it so far! Man that thing eats up wood! And having the slack belt capability has already proven to be really useful. The dust trap and 4” hose captured about 90% of the dust, so I’m stoked with that!! Soooo…I seem to be running out of excuses to start this knife swap project…gotta tell you I’m a bit intimidated!


----------



## Keebler1

Nice setup Ryan


----------



## duckmilk

Is it tracking straight Ryan? What tweaking do you need to do?
Every time you change a belt, you will have to adjust the tracking wheel a bit.
I'm happy you are happy with it, and, yes, it will eat up metal


----------



## RyanGi

Yeah duck, it’s tracks great. I’m still working out where to keep everything so it’s easy and efficient. And still figuring out what speed runs the belts best. Now I just want to work on some projects and break this thing in! Initial impressions being what they are, color me impressed!


----------



## donwilwol

How did I miss this? Probably best not to try to build while moving the shop anyhow. Now if I can figure out what "follow along" means on this new site, I'll follow along anyhow!


----------



## ToddJB

I did a BUNCH of sheet work for a project that required many cuts that were not square. I got the Makita track saw. It's a dream


donwilwol said:


> How did I miss this? Probably best not to try to build while moving the shop anyhow. Now if I can figure out what "follow along" means on this new site, I'll follow along anyhow!


Don, your moving? Did the solar farm thing you mentioned awhile back drive you guys out?


----------



## Keebler1

Welcome to the thread Don


----------



## DavePolaschek

Keebler1 said:


> DaveP that is the second casting of cholla I have turned but the first pen.


Came out looking real good, Keebs! Nice work!

Don, welcome to the thread!


----------



## EarlS

Not in the swap but it looks like I will be busy learning how to use the lathe. The new spindle is installed and the wobble is gone!!! That and trying to get familiar with the new LJ site.

The machine shop guy said he could try to re-work the threads I trashed with some weld and it would cost ~$200 with no guarantees and if it didn't work a new spindle would be $500 on top of the $200 so I told him to make a new spindle. It only took 5 weeks. The way I see it, I saved $200 that can be used towards a good grinder for the Carter and Sons HSS tools. I haven't tried that approach with SWMBO yet.


----------



## pottz

Keebler1 said:


> Came home to a failure
> View attachment 3853529
> 
> So I had to turn a win.
> View attachment 3853530
> 
> DaveP that is the second casting of cholla I have turned but the first pen. Can't show the first as it is a swap item


what the hell frankensteins monster are you creating man !!!!


----------



## pottz

Keebler1 said:


> Welcome to the thread Don


----------



## pottz

EarlS said:


> Not in the swap but it looks like I will be busy learning how to use the lathe. The new spindle is installed and the wobble is gone!!! That and trying to get familiar with the new LJ site.
> 
> The machine shop guy said he could try to re-work the threads I trashed with some weld and it would cost ~$200 with no guarantees and if it didn't work a new spindle would be $500 on top of the $200 so I told him to make a new spindle. It only took 5 weeks. The way I see it, I saved $200 that can be used towards a good grinder for the Carter and Sons HSS tools. I haven't tried that approach with SWMBO yet.


earl it's not too late bud,keebs is extending to this weekend ? cmon man you can do it ?


----------



## GR8HUNTER

that set up would scare me Ryan to have dust collector collecting all them sparks but i am anal about a fire 🥺


----------



## HokieKen

Awesome setup Ryan. Just a tip: don’t put hot metal sparks through your DC into a bunch of sawdust


----------



## HokieKen

donwilwol said:


> How did I miss this? Probably best not to try to build while moving the shop anyhow. Now if I can figure out what "follow along" means on this new site, I'll follow along anyhow!


Glad you’re following along Don. I got the idea for my project from your site 😁


----------



## Lazyman

And don't grind aluminum and rusty iron into the same bin either, you might make thermite.


----------



## Keebler1

GR8HUNTER said:


> that set up would scare me Ryan to have dust collector collecting all them sparks but i am anal about a fire 🥺


I rhink thats why he has the foil in place. To catch the sparks and hot metal. Only uses the dust collector with wood


----------



## DavePolaschek

Lazyman said:


> And don't grind aluminum and rusty iron into the same bin either, you might make thermite.


…unless you’re trying to make thermite, which can be good clean fun.


----------



## RyanGi

Keebs’ has it right. The DC is only for wood dust, but I wanted to make it simple to swap between wood and metal collection. I think I didn’t explain it well…


----------



## HokieKen

It made sense after I reread your post Ryan. Given thenuse of a plasma cutter and welder, I had a feeling you already knew better than to dump grinder exhaust into a pile of dust.

Speaking of…. I’m always curious how other poeple who do both metal and wood work cobfigure their shops. How about some pics to give me ideas?😁


----------



## Keebler1

Looks like I am knabbing a dewalt track saw with 59" and 102" tracks an extra blade and clamps for $350


----------



## RyanGi

I don’t know that I do it particularly well Ken, and there are absolutely limitations of having both Wood and Metal in a small shop. I keep most of my Metal stuff along one wall. And a lot of pieces are on wheels (which I’m not a huge fan of, but it’s a fact of life). This is a pano of the shop from one end. It’s a standard (deep) two car garage, so keep in mind the pano stretches it and makes it look bigger than it is.










you can see that most of the Wood shop is on the left, and takes up about 2/3 of the shop. On the right is the compressor for the whole shop, my mill (under cover), the white and blue contraption is a media blaster and powder coating set up. Behind that (not very visible) is where the lower and upper cabinets start. Most of my metal stuff is bench-top. I have my wood lathe stuffed over there because I’m totally tapped for room. Behind that (on the counter) is a small metal lathe, past that is a slow speed chop saw, then my welding/cutting table, then grinders. All on the counter tops. In front of them is a horizontal band saw, and two welding rigs (and my little plasma cutter) all on wheels. Below are a couple pics to show how everything nests. While it’s not the end of the world, doing ANYTHING on the Metal side requires moving a few tools around, but I’ve got them set up through trial and error to limit movement. Getting the wood lathe set up really threw a wrench in my system because it takes up so much space.

We still have our washer/dryer in there (not visible in the pano, but just to the right of where I was standing). I’m trying to convince my better half to move them inside and that would open up that wall as well, which would really help.

The biggest thing I’ve found is I’ve got to keep the place clean. I vacuum after each wood session, and either magnet sweep or just sweep up after each metal session, then I always blow down the entire shop with compressor air. Dust attracts water (even in a dry area like we’re in) and that’s super bad for machined beds and ways, as you’re aware. So I keep most of the more ‘precision’ tools covered and oiled. I don’t have any big, heavy precision machining tools, so I get away with it. Knock on wood (or metal?) this has worked out well for me and I’ve not had issues. Wood dust gets over everything, but metal swarf tends to stay closer to its source, so I don’t see much of an issue with it on the Wood side..but I’m also pretty anal about cleaning up to avoid cross contamination. It a work in progress…every day… Someday, Someday, Someday I‘ll have a real shop with room for all of it! And a paint room 😜


----------



## RyanGi

Keebler1 said:


> Looks like I am knabbing a dewalt track saw with 59" and 102" tracks an extra blade and clamps for $350


awesome Keebs! I love my track saw for breaking down sheets. I don’t do it a ton, but when I do it’s awesome. I’ve got a stack of 2” foam boards that I toss on the ground and cut on top of that. It’s time on my knees, but it’s worth the results!


----------



## Keebler1

I couldnt pass up on this deal. Ryan tell your wife to go out with her friends for a weekend and move the washer and dryer then. If you play your cards right she wont care cause she just got home from a relaxing weekend away


----------



## RyanGi

It’s not a bad idea Keebs. I’ve almost got her convinced. I’ve got to pull power and water and cut in sewer for it, but that’s all not too far away. But, it means giving up part of her little craft room. We’ve got two spare bedrooms we never use and I want her to move her mess into one of those and have a proper craft room, which would free up what she’s using to be used as a mud room/laundry (not that we need a mud room here, but it would be a place to hang jackets!). In my mind it all makes sense…and that’s about where it unravels. Sigh. Maybe some day! Probably right about the time we move!


----------



## GR8HUNTER

Keebler1 said:


> Looks like I am knabbing a dewalt track saw with 59" and 102" tracks an extra blade and clamps for $350


VERY NICE 🥳🥳


----------



## HokieKen

Great setup Matt. Pretty similar to my own except you do better at segregation. Where’s the mill and lathe though? For some reason I was thinking you had one or both.


----------



## pottz

Keebler1 said:


> Looks like I am knabbing a dewalt track saw with 59" and 102" tracks an extra blade and clamps for $350


thats a big LJ'S you suck award keebs,nice score.ive got the same saw and tracks.it's a great saw.


----------



## Lazyman

RyanGi said:


> I don’t know that I do it particularly well Ken, and there are absolutely limitations of having both Wood and Metal in a small shop. I keep most of my Metal stuff along one wall. And a lot of pieces are on wheels (which I’m not a huge fan of, but it’s a fact of life). This is a pano of the shop from one end. It’s a standard (deep) two car garage, so keep in mind the pano stretches it and makes it look bigger than it is.
> 
> View attachment 3853579
> 
> 
> you can see that most of the Wood shop is on the left, and takes up about 2/3 of the shop. On the right is the compressor for the whole shop, my mill (under cover), the white and blue contraption is a media blaster and powder coating set up. Behind that (not very visible) is where the lower and upper cabinets start. Most of my metal stuff is bench-top. I have my wood lathe stuffed over there because I’m totally tapped for room. Behind that (on the counter) is a small metal lathe, past that is a slow speed chop saw, then my welding/cutting table, then grinders. All on the counter tops. In front of them is a horizontal band saw, and two welding rigs (and my little plasma cutter) all on wheels. Below are a couple pics to show how everything nests. While it’s not the end of the world, doing ANYTHING on the Metal side requires moving a few tools around, but I’ve got them set up through trial and error to limit movement. Getting the wood lathe set up really threw a wrench in my system because it takes up so much space.
> 
> We still have our washer/dryer in there (not visible in the pano, but just to the right of where I was standing). I’m trying to convince my better half to move them inside and that would open up that wall as well, which would really help.
> 
> The biggest thing I’ve found is I’ve got to keep the place clean. I vacuum after each wood session, and either magnet sweep or just sweep up after each metal session, then I always blow down the entire shop with compressor air. Dust attracts water (even in a dry area like we’re in) and that’s super bad for machined beds and ways, as you’re aware. So I keep most of the more ‘precision’ tools covered and oiled. I don’t have any big, heavy precision machining tools, so I get away with it. Knock on wood (or metal?) this has worked out well for me and I’ve not had issues. Wood dust gets over everything, but metal swarf tends to stay closer to its source, so I don’t see much of an issue with it on the Wood side..but I’m also pretty anal about cleaning up to avoid cross contamination. It a work in progress…every day… Someday, Someday, Someday I‘ll have a real shop with room for all of it! And a paint room 😜


Anytime I see that much room to walk around a shop it really pisses me off. 

My shop is constantly crammed so tight that I sometimes have to turn sideways get through. Yours must be a Tardis. It looks like a standard 2 car garage from the outside but is much bigger on the inside.


----------



## therealSteveN

Keebler1 said:


> Looks like I am knabbing a dewalt track saw with 59" and 102" tracks an extra blade and clamps for $350



Provided it's all in good shape and runs well, that is a screaming good deal Keebs. I have that outfit, and I have had 4 or 5 of then over the years, they keep getting sold out of my shop by guys who come over for something else. So after selling I've always had the opportunity to get something else, but never felt the need, or want to. Pretty sure that is what Larry has too.


----------



## therealSteveN

Ryan you need a bigger shop. 

I know hardly helpful was it. My biggest fortune was that my Wife said no more basement shop. I've always had an outbuilding for a shop since then. I've decided that 32 X 48 is the right sized footprint for me. Otherwise we have always had homes with a full basement, and I would be down there looking for enough headroom to turn a long board around.


----------



## RyanGi

HokieKen said:


> Great setup Matt. Pretty similar to my own except you do better at segregation. Where’s the mill and lathe though? For some reason I was thinking you had one or both.


I’m assuming this was meant for me Ken? Dunno…but since we were talking about metal stuff I’m gonna guess so! The mill is under the tan cover, on the rolling tool box. The metal lathe is under the black cover, behind the wood lathe. They’re both small, benchtop versions, nothing special, but for the size stuff I work on they’re just fine. Lathe might be a little small, but it works out ok.


----------



## RyanGi

therealSteveN said:


> Ryan you need a bigger shop.
> 
> I know hardly helpful was it. My biggest fortune was that my Wife said no more basement shop. I've always had an outbuilding for a shop since then. I've decided that 32 X 48 is the right sized footprint for me. Otherwise we have always had homes with a full basement, and I would be down there looking for enough headroom to turn a long board around.


So very true Steven. But, we live in suburbia for the time being. Once we retire and get the hell out of California, our plan is about 2-4 acres somewhere quiet, and then I’ll have a real shop!


----------



## therealSteveN

RyanGi said:


> Once we retire and get the hell out of California,


Much family on both sides had moved to the promised lands of Cali, and Colorado. Huge wages to be earned for those willing to work, yet even with large income, and plenty in savings none of the younger ones are able to own a home, well at least one they want to live in. Almost all of the initial move away's (our Brothers and Sisters and their families) kids, and now even their kids are coming back East. Favored landing spots appear to be Tennessee, and Georgia, nice year round climate, plenty of work, and prices where they can own homes, without the home owning them. I see it getting more crowded every day, and Ohio is not on the A list for destinations, even though we have all of what Tn, and Ga have, and in all cases except weather a lot more of it. I say anyhow. Those not headed back here are going to Texas. I love Texas, just only between the months of November and March. Way to HAWT for me the rest of the time.


----------



## RyanGi

Most of the folks that I know that have left have gone to Idaho, Tennessee and a couple to Oregon or the Dakotas. Yes, solid wages if you want to work, but the taxes kill ya and the areas you want to live are being politic’d to death. It’s really really sad. I was born and raised here and have been all over the world. I can tell you there is almost no where that has the awesome stuff California has. And they’re ruining it. Never ever thought I’d want to leave, now I can’t wait to get out. Really really makes me sad.


----------



## pottz

RyanGi said:


> Most of the folks that I know that have left have gone to Idaho, Tennessee and a couple to Oregon or the Dakotas. Yes, solid wages if you want to work, but the taxes kill ya and the areas you want to live are being politic’d to death. It’s really really sad. I was born and raised here and have been all over the world. I can tell you there is almost no where that has the awesome stuff California has. And they’re ruining it. Never ever thought I’d want to leave, now I can’t wait to get out. Really really makes me sad.


     wife still wants to stay when i retire though 😞


----------



## pottz

therealSteveN said:


> Much family on both sides had moved to the promised lands of Cali, and Colorado. Huge wages to be earned for those willing to work, yet even with large income, and plenty in savings none of the younger ones are able to own a home, well at least one they want to live in. Almost all of the initial move away's (our Brothers and Sisters and their families) kids, and now even their kids are coming back East. Favored landing spots appear to be Tennessee, and Georgia, nice year round climate, plenty of work, and prices where they can own homes, without the home owning them. I see it getting more crowded every day, and Ohio is not on the A list for destinations, even though we have all of what Tn, and Ga have, and in all cases except weather a lot more of it. I say anyhow. Those not headed back here are going to Texas. I love Texas, just only between the months of November and March. Way to HAWT for me the rest of the time.


yeah i feel sorry to the young people starting out in cali,prices are just crazy.im damn glad i bought my home in 92 for 160k.today i could sell for 850-900k.hey at least it will provide for me in retirement.sorry son but i gotta live


----------



## HokieKen

LOL sorry about that “Matt” not sure why I types the wrong name. I’d blame it on the three beers I just had but I just had them 😜 What kind of mill and lathe do you have? I have a Rockwell 21-120 horizontal/vertical mill and a 1936 Southbend lathe 😁


----------



## HokieKen

Pottz, cali real estate prices are nutz. We paid $230k for 3200 sqft sitting on 1/2 an acre in 2012. Talk to the wife after you retire. You could make a killing on selling yours and get 50 acres with a big house and have cash to boot over here on the good coast!


----------



## duckmilk

We got our acreage really cheap (ugly divorce) and had to move quickly since my wife closed on hers 2 weeks later. The day we closed, it was worth probably 2 1/2 times what we paid. We built an apartment inside the big shop (plumbed for a bathroom) just for us two. Had plans to build a real house, but we've been in this for almost 9 years now and it is comfortable enough.

Now people are moving in hoards to this area where it was once agricultural, they're in the process of laying a large waterline on the county road. It's still quiet out here except for the traffic on the highway which is 1 1/2 miles from us. As soon as the development around us starts, we're moving to more rural areas, which could be 3 years or so.

Have I told you I don't like people living too close to me? I grew up on a very remote ranch my dad owned. I step outside to pee.


----------



## Lazyman

HokieKen said:


> Pottz, cali real estate prices are nutz. We paid $230k for 3200 sqft sitting on 1/2 an acre in 2012. Talk to the wife after you retire. You could make a killing on selling yours and get 50 acres with a big house and have cash to boot over here on the good coast!


Kenny, I would not invite them to move out there. When Toyota, Liberty Mutual, State Farm and few others moved their headquarters here, our real estate prices when through the roof. The market value of my house as easily doubled in the last 5 or 6 years. While that is great if you are selling, it sucks if you are buying. I am worried that in the next 5 or 6 years, values will come back down and we will have another banking fiasco. We have thought about downsizing but the smaller houses actually seem to have grown at faster rate, probably because young couples can't afford larger house, so to downsize, we end up with a higher cost per square foot ... unless we move to Roanoke, VA.


----------



## HokieKen

Prices have gone up here the past couple years like everywhere Nathan. But still for a fairly populous area with lots of jobs, the cost of living is inexplicably low. Not that I’m complaining…


----------



## Keebler1

Nathan lady at church lives in mckinney in a nice neighborhood said they assessed her house 75k lower this year.

A set of knife scales in the pressure pot. Hopefully thes work out. Silver 3d print liner with paduak and rose gold colored resin


----------



## RyanGi

HokieKen said:


> What kind of mill and lathe do you have? I have a Rockwell 21-120 horizontal/vertical mill and a 1936 Southbend lathe 😁


Ha! Yeah, you’re head and shoulders ahead of me, but given your background that’s not surprising. no, I’ve just got a little 7x16 lathe and a SIEG X2 clone (albeit much improved). The lathe is a bit small, I’d prefer an 8.5” swing, but this fits the bill for now. Both are benchtop, both from Little Machine Shop. I’d love to have a big old Bridgeport knee mill, but I’d need twice the space for it…and who am I kidding? I don’t need that. Hell, I barely have the skills to run what I’ve got! As long as I take light cuts and plan ahead, I do ok.

I guess planning ahead is just something I’ve had to adopt into all my work. Every tool I have is just a little small, or a little under powered. Well, except for the pre-war 16” Walker Turner bandsaw that I inherited from my FIL. Maybe that’s why I’ve gotten into hand tools. I’m definitely a hybrid woodworker. Power tools when I can, but hand tools as often as not. Speaking of planning ahead….

Today I decided I needed a knife vise. Didn’t know they existed until yesterday, but they‘re a pretty simple idea and I can see wanting one for hand finishing knife handles after they come off the 2x72” grinder. It’s just a doctored up piece of 2” pipe With some wooden inserts and gasket material held in place by knobs tapped into the tube. To allow long axis rotation, I just cut a hole in a block of wood with a relief slot at the top. I can rotate the pipe in the block and lock the whole thing into the Wilton bench vise. This also allows changes in tilt by simply loosening the vise and tipping the block back. When the block gets chewed up, it’s easy to replace. It’s simple, not very elegant, but it seems to work…at least with the test work I did with it. I powder coated it with whatever was left in the gun…turns out a pretty, transparent cobalt looks kinda nice on it!


----------



## pottz

damn you guys are way over my head with knife making.who ever i get is getting the same "knife" keebs is !!!!!🤣


----------



## RyanGi

Pottz, all this prep is just me compensating for the fact that I’ve got no idea what I’m doing here. I figure having tools and vises meant for this sort of thing will limit how badly my first attempts turn out! My stupid pride won’t let me turn in shoddy work, so I gotta make up for it somewhere.


----------



## pottz

RyanGi said:


> Pottz, all this prep is just me compensating for the fact that I’ve got no idea what I’m doing here. I figure having tools and vises meant for this sort of thing will limit how badly my first attempts turn out! My stupid pride won’t let me turn in shoddy work, so I gotta make up for it somewhere.


LOL i hear ya bud.i just wing it on every swap ive been on so far.thank god for etsy............


----------



## Keebler1

Now thats getting into the swap spirit Ryan. Nice setup there


----------



## therealSteveN

Heck I'm feeling a lot better about my impossibly messy shop right now. You guys keep posting shop pics.  

My biggest problem is KNOWING I have stuff, but no idea where it's hiding. I spend more time searching than woodworking. I did spend about 4 hours doing wood prep today, the jointer, planer and a little bit the TS were running. People probably though I was doing something illegal. I turned a BUNCH of hard Maple from really rough, to clean as a whistle, flat, smooth, and 4 square. Also started on a few pieces of my old barn. Some WO that is probably been barn wood since the 1840's and now is redder than any red oak I have ever seen. Pretty cool stuff, but it is full of checks, and shakes. I am making some stand offs for glue ups, and assemblies. It should be fine for them. Maybe bench legs here in a bit.


----------



## donwilwol

I hope you guys don't mind a little self marketing, but i know this will help some. 
. https://www.timetestedtools.net/books-3/with-my-own-hands-my-knife-making-journey/


----------



## EricFai

Managed to get a little shop time, worked out half of the prototype, if all goes well in the next shop visit, everything will come together nicely. Then I get to start over for the one to ship.


----------



## Keebler1

Well I just got screwed. Had a load going from sherman tx to clarksville ar walmart. Was given the load on friday. Picked up the load and a mile or two down the road i get a call from the plant to come back and pick up the rest of my bills for the second stop when i was only showing 1 stop. Get to the gyard shack and another driver is there for this load and dispatch isnt showing any loads on me. So I get to sit till i can call a manager in the morning.


----------



## RyanGi

Weak sauce Keebs. Hope they have better news for you tomorrow!


----------



## EricFai

That's rotten. 

Also Thank You for your Service, without guys like you there would be a lot of folks starving in this country.


----------



## pottz

Keebler1 said:


> Well I just got screwed. Had a load going from sherman tx to clarksville ar walmart. Was given the load on friday. Picked up the load and a mile or two down the road i get a call from the plant to come back and pick up the rest of my bills for the second stop when i was only showing 1 stop. Get to the gyard shack and another driver is there for this load and dispatch isnt showing any loads on me. So I get to sit till i can call a manager in the morning.


well that sucks big time.sounds like a procedure problem ?


----------



## Keebler1

Not sure what happened. The load was in our system then someone took it out. What pisses me off is it wasnt another driver for the same company it eas a driver for an outside carrier


----------



## Keebler1

Only thing i think couldve happened was they added a second stop and made that stop the primary pick up number so they redid the load and were too stupid to look and see it was already dispatched....maybe my dispatcher pulling the load from the system to ensure i get to the shop instead of waiting on load planners


----------



## pottz

Keebler1 said:


> Only thing i think couldve happened was they added a second stop and made that stop the primary pick up number so they redid the load and were too stupid to look and see it was already dispatched....maybe my dispatcher pulling the load from the system to ensure i get to the shop instead of waiting on load planners


all well and good keebs,but im still waiting on that free chicken,"that felll off the truck " you know what i mean ?


----------



## Keebler1

You and me both Pottz


----------



## pottz

Keebler1 said:


> You and me both Pottz


cmon buddy ya gotta work the system man ?


----------



## therealSteveN

Free chicken? You guys know Harlan Sanders or something??

Bummer Keebs, how often does that kind of thing occur?


----------



## Keebler1

Not often


----------



## Lazyman

Who wants free chicken when there is chicken that you can drink!



http://imgur.com/hdVPi86


----------



## recycle1943

Lazyman said:


> Who wants free chicken when there is chicken that you can drink!
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/hdVPi86


scrambled eggs ?


----------



## recycle1943

BTW - this is my weekly check in - - -


----------



## Lazyman

Did you notice that I gave you a ✅for your checki-in? 😁


----------



## WoodenDreams

Lazyman.. It's by products from a chicken plant. Probably going to a dog food plant.

Keebler.. Too bad about the load. The last Wally World load I hauled was in about 1992. In 1997 I switched to flat-bed. Sold my truck and trailer in 2016 and retired from trucking. A couple years ago, I started driving again as a part-time relief driver. Just 1 to 3 days week. Makes a good part-time job, plus doing my hobby woodworking business.


----------



## RyanGi

So now that we’ve confirmed I’m procrastinating at starting this project…what finishes are you guys using for wooden handles knives? Oil? Wax? Buff and shine special?


----------



## therealSteveN

RyanGi said:


> So now that we’ve confirmed I’m procrastinating at starting this project…what finishes are you guys using for wooden handles knives? Oil? Wax? Buff and shine special?


I plan Dr Frankenstein like experiments this time. If you hear me yelling IT'S ALIVE, you know I'm on to something good. 

For my own use I really do like an oil finish, with wax. It gives that soft leathery feel to it, and there isn't anything that feels better to me. It just doesn't wear that well, and needs re-application. Of late I've been using that Howards Feed and wax, with Orange Oil, and waxes, super easy to use, and a great feel.


----------



## DavePolaschek

RyanGi said:


> So now that we’ve confirmed I’m procrastinating at starting this project…what finishes are you guys using for wooden handles knives? Oil? Wax? Buff and shine special?


It really depends on the wood, but this time I’m using stabilized wood, which responds well to the same sorts of finishes that acrylics do. I’ll probably use tung oil followed by wax if I have the time. If I’m getting pressed for time (which is looking more likely every day), I’ll use a coat or two of BLO and call it good. Maybe some “Arizona Shine” if I’m feeling fancy.


----------



## HokieKen

RyanGi said:


> So now that we’ve confirmed I’m procrastinating at starting this project…what finishes are you guys using for wooden handles knives? Oil? Wax? Buff and shine special?


Depends on the wood type and whether or not it's stabilized Ryan. I typically use exotics for scales and use Tru Oil for a finish. For stabilized wood I just polish them.


----------



## pottz

RyanGi said:


> So now that we’ve confirmed I’m procrastinating at starting this project…what finishes are you guys using for wooden handles knives? Oil? Wax? Buff and shine special?


still debating that myself,im interested what you guys prefer also ?


----------



## duckmilk

On my hash knife, the wood was soaking up BLO/mineral spirits too much, so I added poly to the mix until I got the finish I wanted. Then put paste wax over that.


----------



## RyanGi

What about Odie’s? Oil and wax, seems like a good combo? I like it for a number of reasons, but this is an area I’m not familiar with. Also seems like Tung or ever BLO then buffed wax makes sense for something that’s going to be used In the hand.


----------



## RyanGi

HokieKen said:


> Depends on the wood type and whether or not it's stabilized Ryan. I typically use exotics for scales and use Tru Oil for a finish. For stabilized wood I just polish them.


Do you thin it first Ken? I’ve read about thinning with mineral spirits then rubbing it in by hand until dry…then repeating until it won’t take any more. Then maybe some wax on top. Am I anywhere near the ballpark with this? Not that it matters, it’s yet another banned product in this lovely state…


----------



## HokieKen

RyanGi said:


> Do you thin it first Ken? I’ve read about thinning with mineral spirits then rubbing it in by hand until dry…then repeating until it won’t take any more. Then maybe some wax on top. Am I anywhere near the ballpark with this? Not that it matters, it’s yet another banned product in this lovely state…


No I apply it right out of the bottle. Very thin coats and several of them. I like the protection it gives and it has a nice sheen and feel to it. Oil and wax will work fine though for most cases. It's all a matter of what the knife's intended uses are.


----------



## RyanGi

HokieKen said:


> No I apply it right out of the bottle. Very thin coats and several of them. I like the protection it gives and it has a nice sheen and feel to it. Oil and wax will work fine though for most cases. It's all a matter of what the knife's intended uses are.


So, for the neophytes out there (really mostly just me) do you think you could elaborate on finishes for different intended uses? inquiring minds wanna know!


----------



## HokieKen

RyanGi said:


> So, for the neophytes out there (really mostly just me) do you think you could elaborate on finishes for different intended uses? inquiring minds wanna know!


I just mean that for something like kitchen knives, I'd want a finish on the handle that stands up to water. For something like a pocket or sheath knife where the handle gets rubbed constantly, I'd use something that's easy to refresh like oil and wax or shellac. For something light duty that gets used often, I like shellac or no finish.

All that said, I prefer to choose materials appropriate rather than relying on the finish. Stabilized wood and cast acrylic are favorites for me. They can be polished up and will look great and are very durable with no finish at all. I also like tough exotics like Rosewoods, Cocobolo, Ironwood, Ebony, etc. They can typically live a long tough life with no finish at all but finish can always be added for a little extra protection or to make it look or feel better. Then there are always synthetic materials like Micarta that you find on a lot of heavy duty knives like choppers or bushcraft knives but I prefer the feel of wood even if I may have to replace them due to breakage eventually.


----------



## RyanGi

Alright, that all makes sense. I think it’s like any new aspect of the craft, there’s stuff to learn and understand. I guess the plus side is you can replace the scales if you screw them up!


----------



## therealSteveN

RyanGi said:


> I guess the plus side is you can replace the scales if you screw them up!


This vote kinda goes into the PIA side of woodworking, but realistically it is the one truth about it, that it is always an option. Just a lot of GRRRRrrrr between time, and expense so it doesn't get as many takers as I'd rather fix my goof. I see a lot of, the true Craftsman can hide his mistakes. ~~~~~~ yada yada yada. So probably more lean that way, or they talk a good game.


----------



## therealSteveN

I was back in the shop, and the answer to what I wanted to dress up as for Halloween, went through my mind. Do ya think I'll scare the kids??? LMAO











That is me smiling.

This one is me screaming.


----------



## RyanGi

therealSteveN said:


> This vote kinda goes into the PIA side of woodworking, but realistically it is the one truth about it, that it is always an option. Just a lot of GRRRRrrrr between time, and expense so it doesn't get as many takers as I'd rather fix my goof. I see a lot of, the true Craftsman can hide his mistakes. ~~~~~~ yada yada yada. So probably more lean that way, or they talk a good game.


You're not wrong. But some of that also falls into the ‘use what I’ve got’ vs ‘buy materials for each project’. I’m good with either, and I think both have their place, but both have their difficulties as well.


----------



## pottz

therealSteveN said:


> I was back in the shop, and the answer to what I wanted to dress up as for Halloween, went through my mind. Do ya think I'll scare the kids??? LMAO
> 
> View attachment 3853992
> 
> 
> 
> That is me smiling.
> 
> This one is me screaming.
> 
> View attachment 3853993


scared the hell outta me george !👻


----------



## BigShooter

RyanGi said:


> So now that we’ve confirmed I’m procrastinating at starting this project…what finishes are you guys using for wooden handles knives? Oil? Wax? Buff and shine special?


I love tung oil finish on knives. As long as the person understands to reapply over time. With things like knives I love to see the handle age, wear, etc from use.


----------



## RyanGi

Since several of you have mentioned Tung oil, would you mind laying out your finishing schedule for it? I’ve never used it. I know it’s a long drying oil, but I’ve read various things about thinning, not thinning, sanding in, sanding off, etc.. How do you find success with it?


----------



## therealSteveN

pottz said:


> scared the hell outta me george !👻


I have my EyeMuffs on, and my breather. I love them both for comfort, and protection. Probably scarier not covered up. 🤡


----------



## therealSteveN

Ryan. I've never seen absolute consensus when it came to "oils" Tongue is probably the wildest of them all. I do pretty much the same application with Oil. I put on a SMALL amount with a fingertipped sized cloth, and just get everything wetted down. Once it is uniformly wet, I go back and check every hour or two for about 8 hours. If it starts getting dry looking spots I apply more. If it stays wet, I just let it keep drying. At first I never personally do more than 2 applications. I then wait 24 hours, and check for signs of wet, if it isn't wet to touch, I'll sand it down with 1 grit finer than my last grit. 

Usually I do that a few times, 3 or 4 is my norm. After the last time I let it go to dry, I'll hand rub it with a fine wax, with steel wool 000000. It's at this point I'll spend the $$$$$ on a quality wax. I like Briwax dark if I want to impart color/darkening. Liberon Black Bison, and Trewax both make some nice finishes, but in general anything with real Carnuba will work well. Carnuba wax is something like real Tung oil. A lot of what is available isn't tung at all. This kind of pushes the buys toward the higher end products, and sellers, that have much on the line about their name, so they don't want to be found to be cheating. 

I've been cheating lately, and using that Howards feed and wax. Same kind of application schedule, I just don't do a final wax application. Rather I just wait till it's dry, and give it a steel wool buffing. I'm old, and steel wool has been part of my life forever, likely will always be.


----------



## recycle1943

therealSteveN said:


> I was back in the shop, and the answer to what I wanted to dress up as for Halloween, went through my mind. Do ya think I'll scare the kids??? LMAO
> 
> View attachment 3853992
> 
> 
> 
> That is me smiling.
> 
> This one is me screaming.
> 
> View attachment 3853993


I think the the screamer mode would do it


----------



## DavePolaschek

RyanGi said:


> Since several of you have mentioned Tung oil, would you mind laying out your finishing schedule for it? I’ve never used it. I know it’s a long drying oil, but I’ve read various things about thinning, not thinning, sanding in, sanding off, etc.. How do you find success with it?


My finishing schedule for tung oil is to start with a 50-50 mix of tung oil and mineral spirits. You want the stuff that evaporates fast, not (necessarily) the stuff that is environmentally friendly. Real Milk Paint recommends orange oil, which I haven’t tried yet, as I still have about 3 quarts of my pure tung oil gallon remaining.

I’ll put the tung oil on with a foam brush or bristle brush, or in the case of knives or items made of spalted wood, by immersing the item in tung oil, then holding it above the jar to let the excess flow off. For this first application, I want things _wet_.

Let sit for 10-30 minutes, then wipe thoroughly with a clean rag (old t-shirts are best). Set to dry on something resting on a scrap of old cardboard overnight.

Next day, test to see if it’s cured. I just use my hand. If it is, rub with 0000 steel wool, then apply the next coat, usi a brush and applying much more lightly than last time. Just wanting to completely cover the surface. Again, wait 10-30 minutes, then wipe thoroughly with a clean rag. Then let it dry overnight again. Lather, rinse, repeat.

Depending on how hard I expect the item I’m oiling to be used, two coats may be enough. Things that will see hard use will get four or five coats, but with two coats, water will bead on the surface, which will last through a month of hand-washings if it’s a cutting board. With five, that fifth coat gets almost completely wiped off by the rag, but the water-beading will last longer.

At coat three, I’ll switch to full strength tung oil, rather than the 50-50, since even diluted, I’m not going to get much penetration at this point. Coats three and beyond are surface coats.

Once I’m “done,” I try to make sure I have at least a week for the surface to cure before I wrap it in packing materials for shipping. I find that I can leave fingerprints in the finish for a few days after it feels dry, but at some point during that week, fingerprints won’t happen any more. If you want to wax, you can do that after at least a day of curing, but I don’t often wax with tung oil. If you’re in a hurry, wrap in a clean rag for shipping and hope it doesn’t mar the finish.

Dispose of brushes and oily rags properly. Don’t just pile them in the corner.


----------



## RyanGi

Thanks SteveN. So, if I’m reading it right, it’s about a 24-36hour cycle per application, and 3-4 applications total. So about a week+ total until you apply wax? From there it’s just theoretical cure time, yes?


----------



## RyanGi

Thanks Dave- so you’re getting about 24ish hours per application cycle as well, then a few days/a week until waxing…is that about right?


----------



## Lazyman

I tried tung oli for the first time on the BeerBQ swap after seeing The Wood Whisperers' experiment where he boiled several pieces of wood treated with the different types of finish. The tung oil looked almost unaffected by the boiling. BTW, I bought Wood River Tung oil from Woodcraft and it recommends on the bottle to thin the first coat 50/50 with mineral spirits to improve the penetration and curing of the first coat. It went on really easily and the the multiple coats seem to cure very quickly. I was able to do one coat per day without issues.


----------



## HokieKen

I've never used Tung Oil at all. But I have some small bowls and spoons on my Christmas project list so I'm going to attempt to use it on those. As long as it's 100% pure Tung oil, it has the advantage of being completely food safe and non-allergenic in addition to being able to stand up to some wet food/drinks and hand washing. At least that's what I've read and what I'm hoping.

The finish schedule I've read for using it on a kuksa is to fill the cup with Tung oil and let it set for several hours. Pour the oil back into the container and wipe off the excess and let it cure for 24 hours. Repeat until the oil no longer weeps through the endgrain sections to the outside or for a minimum of two soaks. After the final soak, wipe all the excess off and let it cure for 48 hours. Sand the interior surface with 220 up to whatever final grit you want. Wipe a heavy coat onto the inside and outside surfaces and let it set for an hour. Wipe off excess and let it cure for 24 hours. Rinse and repeat until the wood is no longer soaking it up. Let cure for several days after the final coat before using.

So that finishing schedule is pretty time intense but not labor intense. For something like a knife handle/scales, the soaking is a little excessive I think. But I would definitely continue to apply additional coats until the wood can't absorb any more for something like a kitchen knife that would likely be exposed to water on a regular basis.

Again, this is all just information from research that I've done. I haven't ever actually used Tung oil myself.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

pottz said:


> scared the hell outta me george !👻


and me with the new resolution i can count the hairs on your head 🤣


----------



## DavePolaschek

RyanGi said:


> Thanks Dave- so you’re getting about 24ish hours per application cycle as well, then a few days/a week until waxing…is that about right?


Yep. That's it, but note that I’m using 100% tung oil, rather than something with driers added, and also not pre-polymerized. There are companies like LV who sell a pre-polymerized tung oil that can have significantly quicker cure times, but at the expense of not being 100% food safe until it’s cured.

Also, note that any application cycle greater than 8 hours turns into a 24 hour cycle around here, due to other things on the schedule.

As for the soak, as Kenny says, it’s probably not needed for a knife, but it hasn’t hurt anything, and I don’t have to worry that I might have missed any spots. And for something porous like a spalted wood or oak or ash, I really like knowing I’ve got the wood as well-preserved as I possibly can.


----------



## jeffswildwood

I have never tried tung oil, I need to though. I have used a lot of danish oil. I even experimented with it. I made a mix of 50/50 danish oil and gloss polyurethane. It worked nicely. Usually 2-3 coats using the same wipe off method. Nice grain enhancement plus a shiny surface.


----------



## RyanGi

I ordered some 100% Tung oil to try it out. Seems like most of you have a pretty similar schedule for it, which makes me a bit more confident. We’ll see!


----------



## Lazyman

When I decide to try the tung oil for the first time, I wanted something food safe and durable and I didn't have time to order anything. Fortunately the Woodriver TO is unprocessed other than filtering, has no additives or dryers and was available locally so fit the bill. I was very please with how easily it was to use and surprised how quickly it cured. I think that the key is thinning the first few coats (I think that I did 3 with 50/50 mix) to get good penetration but without completely sealing off the surface. A problem you can have with unpolymerized pure oils when you dunk and soak is that they oil need oxygen to polymerize which it cannot get deep inside if it is saturated, especially since the surface layer will cure more quickly and seal off the the deeper oil from getting oxygen. I have read many horror stories about tung oil getting gummy and not curing properly. While this is my first time to try it TO, I suspect that problems occur because they put on too thick of a first coat unthinned and perhaps didn't wipe off the excess before setting it aside to cure for long enough before adding more coats.


----------



## pottz

my long time finish has been a blend of tung oil,blo,and satin poly.it's the formula sam maloof used on all his furniture.i have fallin in love with general finishes products lately.


----------



## therealSteveN

Bigger eyes.....

Hey Dick, you've checked in twice this week.  It's always good to hear from you.


----------



## therealSteveN

GR8HUNTER said:


> and me with the new resolution i can count the hairs on your head 🤣


Probably only because I am in the shop, and a light haze of sawdust is highlighting the 3 that are left up there.


----------



## therealSteveN

Ryan, there is a concurrent thread asking about dry time here.

For me it was a mix of Dave talking about it, and the video Nathan shows about the wonders of it against wet, which for any kitchen products would be a win. Anyhow they have renewed my waned interest. 

For a knife though, I would opt for other Oils before tung, but that is due to how it has worked for me in the past. Like Pottz I have used a blended oil, but mine is BLO, MS, and Poly, and that for me has been bullet proof, easy, and fast drying. I can often recoat in an hour, get 2 coats dry and scuff them down the next day, and start building coats after that, and be all done in less than 3 days usually. 

Saying that, the 2 people who are having the quicker dry, and "cure" times are both in the drier South. Their experiences should be closer to yours in Cali. I think across the board my times are longer, especially if cure is brought into the equation.


----------



## pottz

therealSteveN said:


> Ryan, there is a concurrent thread asking about dry time here.
> 
> For me it was a mix of Dave talking about it, and the video Nathan shows about the wonders of it against wet, which for any kitchen products would be a win. Anyhow they have renewed my waned interest.
> 
> For a knife though, I would opt for other Oils before tung, but that is due to how it has worked for me in the past. Like Pottz I have used a blended oil, but mine is BLO, MS, and Poly, and that for me has been bullet proof, easy, and fast drying. I can often recoat in an hour, get 2 coats dry and scuff them down the next day, and start building coats after that, and be all done in less than 3 days usually.
> 
> Saying that, the 2 people who are having the quicker dry, and "cure" times are both in the drier South. Their experiences should be closer to yours in Cali. I think across the board my times are longer, especially if cure is brought into the equation.


with the maloof blend it's one coat per day for best results.


----------



## DavePolaschek

Lazyman said:


> While this is my first time to try it TO, I suspect that problems occur because they put on too thick of a first coat unthinned and perhaps didn't wipe off the excess before setting it aside to cure for long enough before adding more coats.


Yeah. Fully agree with this. That’s the one danger of dunking the first application, and I always make sure I do that when I’m goi to be out of the shop for a few days. Like yesterday would’ve been perfect, because today we went up to Ski Santa Fe to look at the changing aspens, so I didn’t even open the shop door today.










We ended up walking 2k at 10,350 feet, with about 150 feet of vertical over the course of the trail. The best leaves were closest to the parking lot, of all things.


----------



## recycle1943

therealSteveN said:


> Bigger eyes.....
> 
> Hey Dick, you've checked in twice this week.  It's always good to hear from you.


I’m practicing my lurking technic, going for the super lurker title. Pretty sure I qualify


----------



## duckmilk

Beautiful day for the aspens Dave!

For the beer swap, I made one of these cause I knew I would be having to measure hot steel that would have melted the markings off a tape measure. Since then, I've found it very useful for lots of other stuff and use it really often.


----------



## RyanGi

That’s pretty cool Duck! Makes sense too.

thanks for the info on the TO fellas, I’ve always kind of leaned toward waterborne finishes since they dry more quickly, but for some reason the TO is of interest to me. Maybe it’s just that it’s been around for so long. Although the Maloof oil finish is also pretty awesome, and if He used it, that’s saying something.

Cutting the TO to help penetration makes a lot of sense too. Thanks!


----------



## therealSteveN

recycle1943 said:


> I’m practicing my lurking technic, going for the super lurker title. Pretty sure I qualify


Nah way too many posts and projects for a lurker, maybe just shy. I'm laughing as I type this, we've never met face to face, but I don't get you as shy either. Always glad to see your posts though.


----------



## Keebler1

Ruan I see you ordered tung oil. If you wanted the oil Kenny linked to but cant get it in your state you can ship it to me and I will forward it to you for the cost of shipping.


----------



## therealSteveN

Duck, I didn't know you were a U tube content creator. Loved the video, and it was saying a lot in 3:30, so it passed a lot of member's here, stink test. 

I don't usually cut metals on my BS, so I will break out my metal chopper, and see about finding an old framers square or 3 and do some converting. That looked like a great idea. Thanks for posting. I still use my old Starrett around the shop on a regular basis. I think framers squares are an item if you get used to using them, they are hard to shake, and for a lot of years I had one in my hand every day. No doubt a Carpenters is easier to carry though.

I am not sure, but best guess would be I have around 50 of them, most in hiding. A lot of mine are the larger, heavier framing squares. For those not aware, check differences of Carpenter, and framing squares, it's a good learn. I do have a mix of carpenters squares, but most of my work a framer was better fitted. I think I'll chop mine with a 3" angle for the short leg though. Gimme a 3, 4, and a 5, and I'll give ya a square corner.


----------



## therealSteveN

Keebler1 said:


> Ruan I see you ordered tung oil. If you wanted the oil Kenny linked to but cant get it in your state you can ship it to me and I will forward it to you for the cost of shipping.


Ryan, I would do the same, or any of you regular guys here, if your state doesn't allow you to play with dangerous chemicals. LMAO, I'd be glad to send them on to you. Heck I'm a bootlegger now, may as well bend all the laws.


----------



## duckmilk

George, that isn't me, that is John Switzer, an accomplished blacksmith. I just watch his videos to learn basic things.


----------



## RyanGi

Thanks fellas. I appreciate the shipping offers! I might take you up on it at some point. Tung oil I can get, but not TruOil. Lemme work through one new oil at a time 😜


----------



## therealSteveN

duckmilk said:


> George, that isn't me, that is John Switzer, an accomplished blacksmith. I just watch his videos to learn basic things.



Thanks Duck, you kinda looked famous for a minute. Ahhh hell you are famous. I was about to take up blacksmithing. 

I think I still might saw up a square or 2.


----------



## ToddJB

Good discussion on finishing. I as well haven't played too much with tung oil. Might give it a go


----------



## GR8HUNTER

duckmilk said:


> Beautiful day for the aspens Dave!
> 
> For the beer swap, I made one of these cause I knew I would be having to measure hot steel that would have melted the markings off a tape measure. Since then, I've found it very useful for lots of other stuff and use it really often.


im not a forge guy but that anvil is very nice prolly cost 12k dollars 😭 😭 😭


----------



## HokieKen

I have a couple of hook rules but the hooks are quite a bit smaller. Sacrificing an old framing square is a good idea.


----------



## ToddJB

GR8HUNTER said:


> im not a forge guy but that anvil is very nice prolly cost 12k dollars 😭 😭 😭


You might be surprised. The cost of vintage anvils have gone bonkers. I got mine for $3lb, which was painful on the wallet at the time, but was a steal in today's market. Most people are asking $7-8 per lb. BUT you can get a new solid cast steel anvil for just a big more.


----------



## HokieKen

Anvils are definitely big expenditures. There's a 100# one on my local CL for $300 that's tempting. But it's cast iron with a steel top plate which isn't ideal. But if it stays on there long enough, I'm liable to make an offer on it. I don't really forge anything but if I stumbled on a good deal on an anvil, I'd probably pony up for a bigger forge and start. It would be a lot cheaper and less wasteful than buying flat stock every time I make a blade...


----------



## Lazyman

I do not even have a forge but if I ever stumble upon a good deal on an anvil, it would still come home with me. Of course, I would then have to buy a forge and all of the hammers and tongs and then I would have to put a cover/carport on my driveway and then I would have to put a gate on my driveway so that none of my tools get stolen from drive-by scavengers in the alley. So would the anvil be the cheap part of that endeavor. 

I do have one of these from Harbor Freight ($25) that I use for peening and other light work. It is a little soft but works well enough for what I do.


----------



## DavePolaschek

First epoxy of the swap was today. It’s like progress, only slower.


----------



## Keebler1

I hope i can epoxy my scales when i get home. Hopefully the mold didnt warp so i can


----------



## therealSteveN

Those are kinda like teasers. I looked at my epoxy supply last week, and decided I needed to _think_ about ordering some more. Does that count as forward progress???

Plus saying Epoxy is a bit vague. Is it epoxy to "cement" your scales to your blade blank, or is it epoxy to just start molding a set of scales????? Keebs seemed to infer the later. 

Inquiring minds??????

Nathan, I'd suggest dumping that HF anvil in a roadside ditch. I think it could save you thousands of dollars. That musing you just did looked a lot like a Man approaching a slippery slope. I think you have one foot in gravel, and the other hanging out in midair.... Just in case you missed the warning bells, and flashing lights.


----------



## Keebler1

Both. Cast the scales last weekend. Plan on epoxying then to the knife blank this weekend


----------



## therealSteveN

Also been meaning to ask Dave, Tony, Ryan, Pottz, and Nathan (sorry if I missed any of you swap guys) about if there are any real advantages to "premium" membership, beyond just giving them a few bucks to help support the operation. Did NOT want to ask in the more public vein. I suppose even here it may be frowned upon, but I trust you guys.


----------



## therealSteveN

Keebler1 said:


> Both. Cast the scales last weekend. Plan on epoxying then to the knife blank this weekend


Hmmmm, overacheiver....


----------



## pottz

therealSteveN said:


> Also been meaning to ask Dave, Tony, Ryan, Pottz, and Nathan (sorry if I missed any of you swap guys) about if there are any real advantages to "premium" membership, beyond just giving them a few bucks to help support the operation. Did NOT want to ask in the more public vein. I suppose even here it may be frowned upon, but I trust you guys.


well you get no ads,and we have a private members only lounge.ooh la la ! 😎 not much posting so far.and there is supposed to me more things foe members coming ?


----------



## Lazyman

therealSteveN said:


> Nathan, I'd suggest dumping that HF anvil in a roadside ditch. I think it could save you thousands of dollars. That musing you just did looked a lot like a Man approaching a slippery slope. I think you have one foot in gravel, and the other hanging out in midair.... Just in case you missed the warning bells, and flashing lights.


(Un)Fortunately, the prices are so crazy and they have become rare enough that finding an anvil in my price range will keep me from spending a bunch of money on all the stuff to go along with an anvil. I have thought about taking a beginner blacksmith class but that "might definitely" tip the slop enough to hang a foot out into midair.


----------



## Lazyman

therealSteveN said:


> Nathan, I'd suggest dumping that HF anvil in a roadside ditch. I think it could save you thousands of dollars. That musing you just did looked a lot like a Man approaching a slippery slope. I think you have one foot in gravel, and the other hanging out in midair.... Just in case you missed the warning bells, and flashing lights.


(Un)Fortunately, the prices are so crazy and they have become rare enough that finding an anvil in my price range will keep me from spending a bunch of money on all the stuff to go along with an anvil. I have thought about taking a beginner blacksmith class but that "might definitely" tip the slop enough to hang a foot out into midair.


----------



## Keebler1

Nathan my brother found a good place that teaches knife making in midlothian. He has taken my nephew twice. Let me know if you want the name of the place.


----------



## duckmilk

Can't have too many anvils...or leg vises, kinda like clamps.


----------



## DavePolaschek

therealSteveN said:


> Plus saying Epoxy is a bit vague. Is it epoxy to "cement" your scales to your blade blank, or is it epoxy to just start molding a set of scales????? Keebs seemed to infer the later.


yes. It was definitely one of those.

a pretty unsatisfying day in the shop. One of my scales cracked _after_ being epoxied in place, and I’m trying to figure out how to solidify it Or if I should just order more parts. It was stabilized, but apparently I didn’t get good penetration on this piece with the cactus juice three years ago.

add to that the myriad of issues im having with this new ljs software and how it borks iOS typing, and it’s probably best if I just have bourbon for dinner.


----------



## Keebler1

Dave you might be able to make a mold out of melamine or preferably hdpe for the knife scales with a slot for the rest of the knife to stick through. Use hot glue or tyvec tape to seal the slot and use clear epoxy to slidify the scales. Use something like liquid diamonds that has a long open time so you dont get bubbles also mix slowly


----------



## Keebler1

You might be able to use something like alumilite amazing quick coat that I used on the mug i sent you for beer swap and just brush it on the scales as well. If thats the route you want to try let me know I can ship you what I have


----------



## DavePolaschek

Keebler1 said:


> Dave you might be able to make a mold out of melamine or preferably hdpe for the knife scales with a slot for the rest of the knife to stick through. Use hot glue or tyvec tape to seal the slot and use clear epoxy to slidify the scales. Use something like liquid diamonds that has a long open time so you dont get bubbles also mix slowly


thanks, but that probably won’t work for what I’m making. I just hit The crack with thin CA and some activator to keep it from running places it shouldn’t. If it doesn’t work, it’s on to plan B. Always have a plan b.

it’s kind of exciting watching to see what random word is going to get capitalized as I’m typing on LJs now.


----------



## EricFai

My Prototype is ready to be glued up, I think it will work. So it will be on to the one for shipping.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

therealSteveN said:


> Also been meaning to ask Dave, Tony, Ryan, Pottz, and Nathan (sorry if I missed any of you swap guys) about if there are any real advantages to "premium" membership, beyond just giving them a few bucks to help support the operation. Did NOT want to ask in the more public vein. I suppose even here it may be frowned upon, but I trust you guys.


i like the page layout alot better this way 😁


----------



## RyanGi

DavePolaschek said:


> it’s kind of exciting watching to see what random word is going to get capitalized as I’m typing on LJs now.


Ha! I thought I was the only one with random capital letters!! 😂


----------



## EricFai

Your not alone Dave, I'll be typing away then I notice that the cursor has moved and I'm inserting into a previous sentence. Oh yea, the caps too.


----------



## therealSteveN

Lazyman said:


> (Un)Fortunately, the prices are so crazy and they have become rare enough that finding an anvil in my price range will keep me from spending a bunch of money on all the stuff to go along with an anvil. I have thought about taking a beginner blacksmith class but that "might definitely" tip the slop enough to hang a foot out into midair.


See ya Nathan.... At least I got that in before you got went.....

Anybody see Nathan lately... Nah he sold all his woodworking stuff so he could get into smithing, last I heard he was looking to buy a House Horse. Just wanted it around so he could practice shoeing it.


----------



## therealSteveN

I cannot help it if I have FAT fangers, and they keep making caps. It's a birth defect. 

Besides random is a sign of your creative abilities. Honest I saw it on PBS. LMAO....


----------



## Lazyman

I was out of pocket for a few hours this afternoon because I hosted a meeting of the North TX Lumberjocks. Actually, Just Duck came over today and gave me one of his famous cowboy hash knives he made in the BeerBQ swap. It is an impressive piece of work. He keeps telling me that he messed up the rivets but it look great to me. Oh yeah and he brought me some beer that he picked up for me in NM when he was there so we did consume a few beers in the meeting. 

Meeting minutes:

Duck arrives, hands Nathan hash knife. 
Duck remember beer is still in his truck, retrieves beer while Nathan gets a glass
Beer is opened and consumed
BS is spread evenly around the shop
Beer is opened and consumed
Plans are made for the next North TX Lumberjocks in near future
Meeting adjourned.


----------



## pottz

therealSteveN said:


> I cannot help it if I have FAT fangers, and they keep making caps. It's a birth defect.
> 
> Besides random is a sign of your creative abilities. Honest I saw it on PBS. LMAO....


hell if i care george i get crap for only using lower case ! im a woodworker not an english teacher ! 😬


----------



## HokieKen

I was just getting ready to tell Dave and Ryan to share some of their capitals with you pottz 😂😂😂


----------



## Lazyman

I think that he must have lost both pinkies in a terrible accident so he is unable to hit the shift key when he needs a capital letter. I would not ask him about it because may still be difficult to talk about.


----------



## RyanGi

Since we’re talking about slippery slopes again…for you guys that stabilize wood, what’s your setup? Equipment? Process?


----------



## GR8HUNTER

therealSteveN said:


> Meeting minutes:
> 
> Duck arrives, hands Nathan hash knife.
> Duck remember beer is still in his truck, retrieves beer while Nathan gets a glass
> Beer is opened and consumed
> BS is spread evenly around the shop
> Beer is opened and consumed
> Plans are made for the next North TX Lumberjocks in near future
> Meeting adjourned.


SOUNDS like a GR8 meeting 🥳


----------



## therealSteveN

Poor Pottzie, he gets a lot of grief. O hell, he earns it. 😁🤓

I'm thinking Ryan won a big lotto recently, he's sliding a number of different directions lately. Big sanders, and soon to be into smithing, and machine shop domination. Knife making, wood stabilization, I can't keep up. 

Sounds like N Texas LJ's is one of those beer drinking associations like the German club, the Dart throwing league, stuff like that. A thinly veiled cover to drink beer, and tell lies. Of course you could ALWAYS go fishing, I hear those guys are the champs.


----------



## DavePolaschek

RyanGi said:


> Since we’re talking about slippery slopes again…for you guys that stabilize wood, what’s your setup? Equipment? Process?


i did a blog series on this on the old site, Ryan. The first post covers equipment, so should be relatively easy to read, even after they messed up the blogs.


----------



## Keebler1

I dont know how Dave does it but the pen blank makers that stabilize all suggest a vacuum chamber from turn tex i will have to read Daves blog. I have looked into it but with my schedule I wouldnt have the time to do it properly


----------



## RyanGi

Thanks Dave, I read the blog and there’s some good stuff in it! I’m not sure how much more equipment I want to try to stuff into the shop, but I do like the idea of potentially having a vacuum chamber. I think it might come in handy for more than one thing. I dunno. My Xmas tool list keeps getting longer and longer. 

On a separate note, my first knife assembly is coming along. Not too terrible yet! But I think a lot of the credit needs to go to the new 2x72. My god what a beast! Love it. For those following along at home, my dust extractor attachment is working marvelously. So well that I’m considering moving the tool to a location we’re it can have permanent extraction attached all the time. Of course most of the credit has to go to the Supercell <insert cliché here> _It really sucks! _<end cliché> . I forgot to turn it on while using some 320g and was immediate consumed by a dust cloud. Freaked the air cleaners out and they all kicked on at once. Turned the DC on and it’s like a brand new day! 

We’ll see how today goes. I’ve got a few hours shop time before we’re driving out to a brewery on Mare Island for a birthday party (nearer San Francisco than I like going). Mare is actually a fascinating place. Now it has several breweries and restaurants on it, but was a prevalent military installation during the second war. If you’re a history buff and haven’t read on it, take a minute and look it up online!


----------



## pottz

Lazyman said:


> I think that he must have lost both pinkies in a terrible accident so he is unable to hit the shift key when he needs a capital letter. I would not ask him about it because may still be difficult to talk about.


OH YOU GUYS ARE FUNNY.SO HERE'S A COUPLE DAYS WORTH OK 🤣


----------



## pottz

RyanGi said:


> Since we’re talking about slippery slopes again…for you guys that stabilize wood, what’s your setup? Equipment? Process?


kinda interested in a setup myself 😎


----------



## therealSteveN

pottz said:


> OH YOU GUYS ARE FUNNY.SO HERE'S A COUPLE DAYS WORTH OK 🤣


Snnnifff sniff, sniff, what is that BURNING Smell? Ohhhhhh Pottzie locked on his Caps lock, and they are all dragging their feet, smells like burnt toenails, with a slight hint of foot funk...


----------



## pottz

therealSteveN said:


> Snnnifff sniff, sniff, what is that BURNING Smell? Ohhhhhh Pottzie locked on his Caps lock, and they are all dragging their feet, smells like burnt toenails, with a slight hint of foot funk...


sorry brakes went out 😎


----------



## EricFai

pottz said:


> sorry brakes went out 😎


Ok, Fred Flintstone


----------



## pottz

EricFai said:


> Ok, Fred Flintstone


----------



## duckmilk

I just read some articles on how to harden mild steel. The process was developed buy Robb Gunter while he was working at Sandia Labs in NM. He demonstrated it at an ABANA meeting (blacksmiths) and made a chisel which he then used to cut the steel he had made it from. It all involves the quench he calls "super quench". Really interesting since mild steel isn't supposed to be hardenable. It doesn't get tool steel hard but will bring it up to a Rockwell hardness of 42 - 45. One guy posting the info made a small knife which he carries on his belt daily.
Will not work with steel of a high carbon content.
I'm planning on using it to make a spring for my vise.

OK, back to the Flintstones episode.


----------



## northwoodsman

I can't wait to see the results from the current swap. The product that you all put out in these swaps always amazes me. I have thought about participating in a few of them but have been afraid that I would let my recipient partner down. I participate on another site for another hobby and this guy (Karl B. Andersen) used to be one of my buddies on that site. He used to live in Northern MN but a few years ago he moved to Indiana and got less involved in the other hobby and more involved in forging and knife making. He makes some really neat blades. His website is fairly old but he keeps his other social media (instagram) current. It would be fun to get one of his blades and make your own handle but I'm not sure if he sells just the blades. Check out the neat blades.
Andersen Forge


----------



## DavePolaschek

Interesting, Duck!

Working with some micarta for the first time this week. Seems to pair well with stabilized wood.

Also got a reminder why I prefer hand tools as I was sanding some scales on the belt sander and dinged the adjacent metal. Mistakes take so much longer to make with hand tools. 😖


----------



## Keebler1

Northwoodsman do you want in on this swap. I will make an exception to the reg date. Let me know


----------



## DavePolaschek

northwoodsman said:


> I have thought about participating in a few of them but have been afraid that I would let my recipient partner down.


As long as you’re giving it your best and trying something that pushes your skills a little, I don’t think any of us would be disappointed.


----------



## Keebler1

Is 1/2" before shaping too thin for scales?


----------



## DavePolaschek

Keebler1 said:


> Is 1/2" before shaping too thin for scales?


Depends on the knife, Keebs. The thickest I’m working with this time was ¼" for each scale, so ½ total. Not much margin for error, but I think the results will be ok. Besides, the guy I’m sending them to drinks a lot… ;-)


----------



## duckmilk

DavePolaschek said:


> Depends on the knife, Keebs. The thickest I’m working with this time was ¼" for each scale, so ½ total. Not much margin for error, but I think the results will be ok. Besides, the guy I’m sending them to drinks a lot… ;-)


 You're sending to me?? I'm not even in the swap Dave.


----------



## Keebler1

Next question is how much slop is ok between the brass rod and the hole in the knife? The brass rod I have has a little play in the holes


----------



## Keebler1

Yes you are Duck I just havent added your name yet


----------



## northwoodsman

Keebler1 said:


> Northwoodsman do you want in on this swap. I will make an exception to the reg date. Let me know


Thanks for the offer Keebler, I have to decline. I have too much going on right now. My son is getting married in two weeks and the wedding is in East Texas. I'm trying to help get everything squared away for that. Lot's of last minute details to wrap up and changes to deal with. His best man just got deployed overseas and now he can't make it, my wife now has jury duty that week, the brides family has Covid, my mom's sister (my aunt) has cancer so now they aren't making the cross-country journey. I really don't need the added stress. Thanks anyways.


----------



## EricFai

northwoodsman said:


> I can't wait to see the results from the current swap. The product that you all put out in these swaps always amazes me. I have thought about participating in a few of them but have been afraid that I would let my recipient partner down. I participate on another site for another hobby and this guy (Karl B. Andersen) used to be one of my buddies on that site. He used to live in Northern MN but a few years ago he moved to Indiana and got less involved in the other hobby and more involved in forging and knife making. He makes some really neat blades. His website is fairly old but he keeps his other social media (instagram) current. It would be fun to get one of his blades and make your own handle but I'm not sure if he sells just the blades. Check out the neat blades.
> Andersen Forge


NorthWoodsMan, You can join a swap when you don't have a lot going on, good luck with the wedding and prayers for you Aunt. As for the swaps, they can be fun and challenging you to work outside your comfort zone. There are no worries about what you make and send off. I questioned the first few I participated in, but the items I sent seemed well received.


----------



## therealSteveN

Keebler1 said:


> Is 1/2" before shaping too thin for scales?


I know in kit form some middle land between 1/4" to 3/8" per side is the norm on what they send out, so it depends on if your 1/2" is per side? or needs to be cut down to make a pair? If per side it isn't necessarily too much, but for most hands a 1" grip is getting a bit stout. 

I think of the pins as locators for the scales more than as a lock. The epoxy is gonna lock them down provided everything is flush, and it has a scuffed up base to let the epoxy work, and probably that you used some Naptha, or MS, something to clean the metal, and some of the oily woods to allow the epoxy to adhere, and again work.


----------



## Keebler1

Well im glued up. Didnt clean the metal but did sand with 80 grit and also scuffed the brass pins. The scales didnt need cleaning or sciffing cause of how they are made. Think it will turn out. Now to make and cast the last 2 knife handles


----------



## therealSteveN

EricFai said:


> NorthWoodsMan, You can join a swap when you don't have a lot going on, good luck with the wedding and prayers for you Aunt. As for the swaps, they can be fun and challenging you to work outside your comfort zone. There are no worries about what you make and send off. I questioned the first few I participated in, but the items I sent seemed well received.


I was totally pleased with your items that I got Eric. I agree 100% here. Weddings of children aren't every day, make the most of that. Sounds like you have some fires to tend to there already. Prayers it all goes as hoped for. Jump in any time you want. Some great people are swappers. I always thought it would be weird saying that.  

Very true if you add at LJ's.


----------



## therealSteveN

pottz said:


> View attachment 3854541


Now I know why my toes are on fire..... Next time I'm driving.


----------



## pottz

northwoodsman said:


> I can't wait to see the results from the current swap. The product that you all put out in these swaps always amazes me. I have thought about participating in a few of them but have been afraid that I would let my recipient partner down. I participate on another site for another hobby and this guy (Karl B. Andersen) used to be one of my buddies on that site. He used to live in Northern MN but a few years ago he moved to Indiana and got less involved in the other hobby and more involved in forging and knife making. He makes some really neat blades. His website is fairly old but he keeps his other social media (instagram) current. It would be fun to get one of his blades and make your own handle but I'm not sure if he sells just the blades. Check out the neat blades.
> Andersen Forge


wow some beautiful well crafted knives. but het dont be shy about joining these swaps,trust me im no knife maker for sure.it's more about pushing your skils and just plaun having some fun with some greta people,well most anyway 😁 😁


----------



## EricFai

Term " Swappers" that does sound weird!!


----------



## pottz

DavePolaschek said:


> Depends on the knife, Keebs. The thickest I’m working with this time was ¼" for each scale, so ½ total. Not much margin for error, but I think the results will be ok. Besides, the guy I’m sending them to drinks a lot… ;-)


well that doesn't narrow it down much !😂


----------



## pottz

EricFai said:


> Term " Swappers" that does sound weird!!


sounds totally normal to me


----------



## RyanGi

Swaps are awesome! I highly recommend anyone that has any interest get involved with them. It’s an awesome opportunity to learn or try something a little different..and maybe even buy yourself a new tool? For me, the best part is the banter with the other folks involved. Not only is the forum infinitely entertaining, but there’s a ready made group to ask questions and get guidance from. And it’s a great excuse to find some shop time! If you put in some effort, give it your best shot, everything will work out just fine…


----------



## ToddJB

Made a test knife. Trying something different that I didn't know if it would work. I might like it. I think I'll make a real one as a bonus item, and something a little more traditional for the main item.


----------



## pottz

RyanGi said:


> Swaps are awesome! I highly recommend anyone that has any interest get involved with them. It’s an awesome opportunity to learn or try something a little different..and maybe even buy yourself a new tool? For me, the best part is the banter with the other folks involved. Not only is the forum infinitely entertaining, but there’s a ready made group to ask questions and get guidance from. And it’s a great excuse to find some shop time! If you put in some effort, give it your best shot, everything will work out just fine…


totally agree 😁


----------



## HokieKen

Keebler I highly recommend making a mock up of the handle size you’re shooting for before you shape it. A too-small handle is one of the most common ways to ruin an otherwise good knife.

Duck, I have worked with some hardened mild steel at work. We buy it hardened though so I don’t know how it’s done. Like you said, it’s not as hard as I would like for a knife or most tools. But I’ve used it for shafts and pistons and for low wear stuff where a little extra wear resistance and strength is desired, it’s an excellent choice becise it can be machined without having to grind it.


----------



## Lazyman

Dang Woody. Some would call those bad omens for a wedding. Not me but some.. 

Duck, share a link for the thing about hardening mild steel if can.


----------



## therealSteveN

pottz said:


> sounds totally normal to me



Pottz has that Southern Cali, nudist, swapper, thing going on. LMAO yeah I bet.... 

Eric I agree, doing these tool, and beer swaps I have had a blast with the doing, and the banter is the best. You can learn, and Laugh yer butt off within seconds of each other. 2 of my favorite things to do.


----------



## therealSteveN

The hardening of steel, is this also known as "heat treating" My machine shop buddies are always taking work to heat treat, a daily thing to do. I do know in Dayton where at one time there were over 25,000 machine shops, there were/are only about a dozen heat treat places going that are considered worth the $$$$.


----------



## Keebler1

Molds I just pulled off my printer. Yall give me some colors to cast in them


----------



## pottz

therealSteveN said:


> Pottz has that Southern Cali, nudist, swapper, thing going on. LMAO yeah I bet....
> 
> Eric I agree, doing these tool, and beer swaps I have had a blast with the doing, and the banter is the best. You can learn, and Laugh yer butt off within seconds of each other. 2 of my favorite things to do.


hey you know they say,more fun in the sun.no, the ladies dont wanna see this dude nude 😆


----------



## RyanGi

Keebs, how do you get the resin out of those molds? Do you use mold release or…? And how to you adjoin the resin sections after you de-mold them? CA? Inquiring minds want to know!


----------



## Keebler1

I dont take the resin out of the 3d printed molds. I cast and turn. Here is a pen I did a while back. The blue is 3d print.









The white in this one ia resin 3d printed with resin cast. I think pottz got this one but I am not sure.


----------



## duckmilk

Lazyman said:


> Dang Woody. Some would call those bad omens for a wedding. Not me but some..
> 
> Duck, share a link for the thing about hardening mild steel if can.


This forum thread has the information in it along with a response from Robb.
I'll be looking for something for the surfactant.


----------



## RyanGi

What filament are upon using? I assume 100% infill?


----------



## Keebler1

Pla or pla+ mostly from gst3d. 100% infill 5 or 6 top and bottom and 6-10 perimeters.


----------



## HokieKen

Nathan printed me some molds for a plane knob last year out of TPU. I just coated the mold with paste wax before I poured the epoxy and it came away clean.


----------



## Keebler1

I will keep that in mind kenny. The molds i come up with to 3d print are designed to become part of the blank. What I dont want on the blank gets turned off


----------



## Lazyman

duckmilk said:


> This forum thread has the information in it along with a response from Robb.
> I'll be looking for something for the surfactant.


Kind of weird that it needs a surfactant since detergent is a surfactant.


----------



## RyanGi

Huh. I’m surprised the PLA holds up to turning. I’d think it would shred. Good to know!


----------



## duckmilk

Lazyman said:


> Kind of weird that it needs a surfactant since detergent is a surfactant.


Yeah, that was mentioned in the comments but Robb is the scientist and proved it works.
My nephew has spent some time with Robb and is who sent me to his method.


----------



## pottz

Keebler1 said:


> I dont take the resin out of the 3d printed molds. I cast and turn. Here is a pen I did a while back. The blue is 3d print.
> View attachment 3854653
> 
> 
> The white in this one ia resin 3d printed with resin cast. I think pottz got this one but I am not sure.
> 
> View attachment 3854654


sure did and it's on my bench right now


----------



## RyanGi

Keebs what brand are you using for resin? I use a lot of Alumilite Clear Cast for infill but I don’t think that would be great for these types of molds. Too deep I would think?


----------



## Keebler1

I use alumilite clear slow, liquid diamonds and stones resin. I will use alumilite for these molds so i dont have to wait as long to pour. When i pour differnet colors together in one mold i wait till about 105F before pouring


----------



## RyanGi

And you don’t see much deformation of the molds?


----------



## Keebler1

Depends on the wall thickness if they are thick enough no. I have found on pen blanks .05"-.07" is needed. Bigger blanks thicker. These were too thin.


----------



## RyanGi

So you have a ratio you use for size vs wall thickness or not so much?


----------



## Keebler1

Trial and error. Pour it if it warps thicken the walls and try again. Im still working off liquid diamond kits I got for $99 last year so it isnt as expensive as it could be


----------



## RyanGi

Alright. Sounds like a good reason to change out the bad stepper motor on my Mk3. At least this one won’t cost me $$$$ for new tools!!


----------



## duckmilk

If any of you are still unsure what you will make for this swap, how about this one?

The presentation and replica link toward the bottom is interesting.


----------



## Keebler1

Ryan you want to send me your mk3 not fix it


----------



## HokieKen

My 3D printer seems to run most of the time. I always seem to have something to print on it. I spent the first several months I had it ipgrading parts and tweeking stuff to try to get good rsults consistently but I think I have it dialed in now. It’s definitely something I wouldn’t want to give up now that I’ve gotten used to it.


----------



## pottz

duckmilk said:


> If any of you are still unsure what you will make for this swap, how about this one?
> 
> The presentation and replica link toward the bottom is interesting.


i seriously considered making one but went with something else.one of the all time great knives.


----------



## ToddJB

therealSteveN said:


> The hardening of steel, is this also known as "heat treating" My machine shop buddies are always taking work to heat treat, a daily thing to do. I do know in Dayton where at one time there were over 25,000 machine shops, there were/are only about a dozen heat treat places going that are considered worth the $$$$.


Steve, I don't think was was answered. Hardening of steel is part of "heat treating". Steel has three (main) stages in regard to knife making. 

Annealed - in it's soft state.
Hardened - very hard, but very brittle state
Tempered - still hard, but not as hard, but much less brittle.

Making steel hard, and then tempering it, is typically referred to as "heat treating".

This is a crazy science. Some steels are very simple to heat treat. Some are very difficult. But nearly all steels have a receipt for heat treating.

I hope that helps.


----------



## RyanGi

I was hot and heavy with the MK3 when I fist got it. Added the MMU2 and all that. I was making a bunch of stuff, but then started working on some other projects and its use went down. I was still using it what I would consider regularly, just not all the time. It sat for a while and I went to fire it back up a few months ago and the right z-axis motor is locked up. I didn’t tweak on it too hard, but it seems like it’s seized. I ordered and received the replacement, but haven’t gotten around to replacing it. I had it dialed in real clean when I was using it regularly. Very predictable! I even made some time lapse videos. Pretty cool.


__
http://instagr.am/p/B0WcWA1ncQo/


----------



## HokieKen

Todd is spot on. Alloy steels like 4140 can have a really broad range of hardness and strength based on tempering temperatures. But the processes have to be precisely controlled. 

For reference, oil-quenched steels are a good option for home use where a programmable oven isn’t available. 10XX high carbon steels or O1 are all good choices.


----------



## HokieKen

duckmilk said:


> If any of you are still unsure what you will make for this swap, how about this one?
> 
> The presentation and replica link toward the bottom is interesting.


Went to the Alamo today for the first time Duck. It’s pretty humbling. I thoroughly enjoyed it.


----------



## ToddJB

HokieKen said:


> Todd is spot on. Alloy steels like 4140 can have a really broad range of hardness and strength based on tempering temperatures. But the processes have to be precisely controlled.
> 
> For reference, oil-quenched steels are a good option for home use where a programmable oven isn’t available. 10XX high carbon steels or O1 are all good choices.


O1 is my go to for stock removal tools.


----------



## RyanGi

How would O1 be for a knife blade??


----------



## HokieKen

RyanGi said:


> How would O1 be for a knife blade??


Excellent. Not much for corrosion resistance but otherwise it’s a great choice.


----------



## Lazyman

Keebler1 said:


> Depends on the wall thickness if they are thick enough no. I have found on pen blanks .05"-.07" is needed. Bigger blanks thicker. These were too thin.
> View attachment 3854688


I am guessing that the resin heated up as it cured and weakened the PLA. I will bet that if you wrap a couple of loops of tape around it that won't happen.


----------



## DavePolaschek

RyanGi said:


> How would O1 be for a knife blade??


O1 is very good. After years of food and oil exposure, it’ll get a really nice patina on it. I mostly use stainless for cooking (because they’re still good knives), but I have one 5” O1 chefs knife that comes out when I have serious work to do in the kitchen. It’s sharper than the stainless knives, and food doesn’t suction onto the sides of it as much.


----------



## Keebler1

I just printed some molds but didnt get the best results. I think I turned my speed up. Luckily I dont think I saved those settings so I can try again later. At least you wont see the bad parts as it is a herringbone pen blank.


----------



## RyanGi

Keebs are the pen blanks you’re printing like 3/4”x3/4” or so?


----------



## Keebler1

Lazyman said:


> I am guessing that the resin heated up as it cured and weakened the PLA. I will bet that if you wrap a couple of loops of tape around it that won't happen.


The inside walls warped as well Nathan. I could probably pour more in the regular box mold and cut it square but I think I have already tossed it. No big deal just made the walls thicker. The other mold you wouldve lost the pattern cause of the warp.


----------



## Keebler1

Ryan depends on where i get the file. If I make it i like a little bigger so i usually go with 7/8x7/8x5.25.


----------



## Lazyman

Keebler1 said:


> The inside walls warped as well Nathan. I could probably pour more in the regular box mold and cut it square but I think I have already tossed it. No big deal just made the walls thicker. The other mold you wouldve lost the pattern cause of the warp.


I am sure that they got warm too. Once the outside moved the inside walls have to move too.


----------



## RyanGi

Keebler1 said:


> Ryan depends on where i get the file. If I make it i like a little bigger so i usually go with 7/8x7/8x5.25.


Ah! I just assumed you were drafting them yourself. So where does one find pen molds for printing? Thingiverse?

I’ve done a bit of modeling in Fusion360 for my printer but I’m not very good at it. Takes me a pretty long time. Probably easier to find someone else’s designs!


----------



## Keebler1

Ryan private message me i will send you my files. I find some on thingiverse and some on a facebook group but i designed a lot that i do


----------



## RyanGi

Sent


----------



## therealSteveN

duckmilk said:


> If any of you are still unsure what you will make for this swap, how about this one?
> 
> The presentation and replica link toward the bottom is interesting.


Duck, that might be a knife down in Texas, up here that is a full on SWORD.


----------



## duckmilk

HokieKen said:


> Went to the Alamo today for the first time Duck. It’s pretty humbling. I thoroughly enjoyed it.


I haven't been since I was a boy. There have been a lot of improvements since then so it is on my list to go see it again.


----------



## duckmilk

This site is doing funny things to my post today.


----------



## Keebler1

I need to pay the alamo a visit as well


----------



## Lazyman

When I was a kid, the Alamo was cool from the outside but basically an empty building. It wasn't until about 1980 or maybe a little later that they actually put some more historical stuff inside and on the grounds.


----------



## therealSteveN

ToddJB said:


> Steve, I don't think was was answered. Hardening of steel is part of "heat treating". Steel has three (main) stages in regard to knife making.
> 
> Annealed - in it's soft state.
> Hardened - very hard, but very brittle state
> Tempered - still hard, but not as hard, but much less brittle.
> 
> Making steel hard, and then tempering it, is typically referred to as "heat treating".
> 
> This is a crazy science. Some steels are very simple to heat treat. Some are very difficult. But nearly all steels have a receipt for heat treating.
> 
> I hope that helps.


I know when I have asked them about it, the answer always had the words about making the part less brittle. I would have assumed it was plenty hard already, so you are saying they harden, and make it less brittle, so in essence that is what the knife makers are trying to do as well. 

I am assuming then that knife blades being much smaller than most of the tooling jobs I've seen are easier to both heat, and temper, and this is maybe why a person could do it at home? Seems like the heat treat places have some pretty costly looking equipment based on what I have seen. Wondering if that is just to control it to a tighter degree than just winging it with just fire, and water/oil.


----------



## therealSteveN

Seems like for "tool" steel for chisels, plane blades what you mostly see is A2, and O1. Them, and now LV's PM-VII which is slightly harder to sharpen, but much more tolerant to use. Anyone using that for knives?


I have a couple of their PM-VII chisels, and they kick buttocks.


----------



## pottz

duckmilk said:


> This site is doing funny things to my post today.


whats happening ?


----------



## duckmilk

I wrote a comment and hit post. It did its little thing with the three bars flashing for a while then said there was an error, try again later. A while later I hit post again and it did a double post. The site seemed to be working slow this morning, maybe it hadn't had its coffee yet.


----------



## pottz

duckmilk said:


> I wrote a comment and hit post. It did its little thing with the three bars flashing for a while then said there was an error, try again later. A while later I hit post again and it did a double post. The site seemed to be working slow this morning, maybe it hadn't had its coffee yet.


yeah ive had that happen a few times.just did it early this morning.one of the improvements i guess 😂


----------



## Lazyman

I have gotten the error even though the post went through okay so when you get an error, copy the text just in case and refresh the screen before you try to post it again.


----------



## therealSteveN

duckmilk said:


> I wrote a comment and hit post. It did its little thing with the three bars flashing for a while then said there was an error, try again later. A while later I hit post again and it did a double post. The site seemed to be working slow this morning, maybe it hadn't had its coffee yet.


Thats what it did to me too, and why I figured I wasn't going to worry about it. That is what I have seen "buggy" software do, and with as many things this stuff lacks I imagine it's chock full of buggy.


----------



## EricFai

Guess it's check in time for the week. Prototype still sitting on the bench, looked at it today and figure it will work. Need to locate a block to make the one to ship out.


----------



## duckmilk

Wow, these ads on the side are really up to date! I'm not a premium member cause the ads don't bother me much, but I was searching for cardboard shipping tubes (for beer of course) and now that is what the ads are showing, LOL.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

duckmilk said:


> Wow, these ads on the side are really up to date! I'm not a premium member cause the ads don't bother me much, but I was searching for cardboard shipping tubes (for beer of course) and now that is what the ads are showing, LOL.


if you want cardboard tubes go to a flooring store they have tons of tubes there for free


----------



## pottz

well good progress today,knife #1 has it's first coat of finish on the handle.#2 is in the final sanding stage so im lookin real good.


----------



## Keebler1

Pottz wanna sand and finish mine for me


----------



## duckmilk

I'll look into that Tony. The ones I've been using are from the distillery I once worked at, 3/8" thick walls and 3" inside diameter which works perfect for shipping beer.

Pottz is an overachiever.


----------



## EricFai

I found out the round ones cost more in shipping. Now if you cut them to length and stuff them in a box it might cost a little less.


----------



## pottz

Keebler1 said:


> Pottz wanna sand and finish mine for me


sure bend over and ill let my 80 grit do it's work buddy 😝


----------



## pottz

duckmilk said:


> I'll look into that Tony. The ones I've been using are from the distillery I once worked at, 3/8" thick walls and 3" inside diameter which works perfect for shipping beer.
> 
> Pottz is an overachiever.


thanks duck 😁


----------



## recycle1943

I’m back home from our annual 3 day craft show so I thought I’d better check in..


----------



## pottz

recycle1943 said:


> I’m back home from our annual 3 day craft show so I thought I’d better check in..


dick we'd love to see more from you besides a check in buddy.so how did the show go ? ill bet good because im one of the fortunate that has one of dicks bowls and lamps.top notch guys !!!! 😁


----------



## HokieKen

I got all of my materials for my swap project now. I’m doing two things I’ve never done before on this one so I’m excited to get started😎

Over the weekend I was visiting my BIL and his family in TX. Several years ago I put scales on a kit knife from Woodcraft for my nephew. Since then I’ve made several blades and etched my mark into them. So he asked if I could put my mark on his blade for posterity. I told him I couldn’t mark that blade because I didn’t make it. He said he didn’t care and I explained that I did.

IMO, putting my mark on his blade would be (a) taking credit away from whoever did make the blade and (b) taking credit for something that I didn’t make. I explained that it was an ethical thing and that even though whatever Chinese factory made the knife would never know or care that my mark was etched into it, I would know and it would bother me. 

Now, I did make the scales so I would have offered to laser my mark onto those if they weren’t cast resin (cast by someone else at that) but that I would claim credit for the craftsmanship of those. Just not the blade.

Just something to chew on for those of you who use a maker’s mark on your work😉


----------



## RyanGi

It’s a small thing Ken, but I agree it’s important. If no one but yourself knows why you did what you did, so be it. Character is what you do when no one is looking!


----------



## Keebler1

Nice learning lesson Kenny. What are you using to etch your mark into scales and blades? Why couldnt you etch the resin scales?


----------



## therealSteveN

HokieKen said:


> I got all of my materials for my swap project now. I’m doing two things I’ve never done before on this one so I’m excited to get started😎
> 
> Over the weekend I was visiting my BIL and his family in TX. Several years ago I put scales on a kit knife from Woodcraft for my nephew. Since then I’ve made several blades and etched my mark into them. So he asked if I could put my mark on his blade for posterity. I told him I couldn’t mark that blade because I didn’t make it. He said he didn’t care and I explained that I did.
> 
> IMO, putting my mark on his blade would be (a) taking credit away from whoever did make the blade and (b) taking credit for something that I didn’t make. I explained that it was an ethical thing and that even though whatever Chinese factory made the knife would never know or care that my mark was etched into it, I would know and it would bother me.
> 
> Now, I did make the scales so I would have offered to laser my mark onto those if they weren’t cast resin (cast by someone else at that) but that I would claim credit for the craftsmanship of those. Just not the blade.
> 
> Just something to chew on for those of you who use a maker’s mark on your work😉


Kenny, it goes toward what I call personal integrity. Each of us has a different view of what is or isn't acceptable. I don't have any "old" work here, or for that matter anywhere, as items, especially items I did for $$$$$, I feel I have sold them, and the owner of that item now owns it's rights, and privilege's. Therefore I am not at liberty to show someone else's piece. Many here don't do that, and maybe don't understand my reasoning for doing that, but I do, and it's only me I "HAVE" to satisfy when it comes to whatever I do with my work. I extend that same nod toward gifts I have given, and or made. So pretty much all I do have are items I have made for me, and I don't care who sees them, or swap items I've made since I was here, and the understanding is we do share them. But I also have never used my makers mark on any of them. 

Anyhow, I understand any and all instances of what you do with your work. I'm not saying those who show some or all of what they have made are wrong, in every case it's what you are comfortable with, and at the end of the day it's really YOU that needs to be happy. I will say it's weird here sometimes, and if you are judged simply by what is in your "projects" or "showcase" then many will not see or appreciate your experience. I can live with that.


----------



## HokieKen

Don't misunderstand me, I'm not trying to tell anyone how to mark their work. If you buy a kit knife and want to etch your mark into it because you view it as just a piece of hardware that contributed to your finished piece, I totally see that POV and wouldn't dream of calling foul. Just putting my $.02 out there 



Keebler1 said:


> Nice learning lesson Kenny. What are you using to etch your mark into scales and blades? Why couldnt you etch the resin scales?


I use an electro-etcher I built similar to this one to etch into steel Keebler. I made mine using different electronic components and a 4PDT switch in a project box but functionally it's the same as the one in the link. I step down the 115VAC supply to about 16VAC and use that for the etch and then rectify it to about 12VDC and use that to darken the etch. I use adhesive vinyl masks for my mark and I just use saltwater solution as the etchant.

My laser may work on cast scales but these weren't opaque and they were highly polished so I didn't want to take any chances on screwing them up.


----------



## RyanGi

Keebler1 said:


> Nice learning lesson Kenny. What are you using to etch your mark into scales and blades? Why couldnt you etch the resin scales?


Keebs- I just picked this up. It’s a cheapy diode laser machine but it came highly recommended from a buddy of mine, and he’s pretty hard on his stuff. I’ve got to say, for wood, it’s completely blown away my expectations. Simple, very utile UI, enough power to get it done, and simple enough mechanical set up. I’m amazed!!

Comgrow Laser Engraving Machine https://a.co/d/dz2BTFh


----------



## HokieKen

Here's my laser. It works fine on wood but I wouldn't recommend it because of the engraving size only being about 1.5" square and the gantry design limits the size of the work greatly. When I got it it was a great deal at $60 but there are lots of budget-friendly lasers available now that have much more capacity.


----------



## RyanGi

I’ve done some simple, simple electro etching with a 9v battery, some wires, a q-tip and salt water. Using a vinyl cutter to create a mask. It works out well enough but I wouldn’t say it’s high resolution. Good enough to place volume markers inside my brew kettle though!


----------



## pottz

might have to invest in a laser myself.there so cheap now.many times i wish i could engrave names or designs on projects. biggest problem is i know very little about them and there are a ton to choose from.


----------



## RyanGi

Pottz check out the one I linked. It’s really pretty inexpensive and the user interface just couldn’t be easier. You can just take a pic with your phone and it’ll burn it. Since you set in on top of what you’re engraving, you can use it on damn near any sized project. It’s chineseum to be sure, but it sure does what I need it to do. Probably about a 4” square size limit? Doesn’t do much on metal, although there are ways to make it work, but works like a charm on wood, plastic and leather!

FWIW, I’ve found that _sometimes_ having a machine you set on top of a project (as opposed to setting the project inside the tool) makes for a much less constrained operation and opens up the world to using it on projects you might not otherwise. In a way, that’s the way I see the Shaper Origin vs a gantry CNC. To each their own though!

amazon, two day shipping, just saying…


----------



## Lazyman

Keebler, just use your Cricut (or whichever one you have) and use it to make peel and stick vinyl masks of what ever logo you want and then use a battery with one wire clipped on the metal and another with alligator clip on a q-tip dipped in saltwater. Just blot the open space in the mask, keeping it wet with salt water. It is important that the adhesive on the mask seals tight to prevent the salt water from seeping under the edges. You will have to experiment to see how long it takes. If you have a 12v battery that will work even better than the 9v. I have actually used a 12v battery charger instead of the battery itself or make one similar to the one Kenny linked to.


----------



## pottz

RyanGi said:


> Pottz check out the one I linked. It’s really pretty inexpensive and the user interface just couldn’t be easier. You can just take a pic with your phone and it’ll burn it. Since you set in on top of what you’re engraving, you can use it on damn near any sized project. It’s chineseum to be sure, but it sure does what I need it to do. Probably about a 4” square size limit? Doesn’t do much on metal, although there are ways to make it work, but works like a charm on wood, plastic and leather!
> 
> FWIW, I’ve found that _sometimes_ having a machine you set on top of a project (as opposed to setting the project inside the tool) makes for a much less constrained operation and opens up the world to using it on projects you might not otherwise. In a way, that’s the way I see the Shaper Origin vs a gantry CNC. To each their own though!
> 
> amazon, two day shipping, just saying…


will it work on a curved surface like a pen ? that would be one big reason for me to get one.


----------



## HokieKen

Some lasers have a rotary adapter you can use to engrave on round stuff pottz. I have done some engraving on small things like pens and it really just depends on the size of what you're engraving. In general I'll say you'll get pretty good results on a pen as long as what you're burning is no more than 20% of the circumference in width. So writing someone's name along the length of pen usually works well. But initials across the width of the pen probably not.


----------



## RyanGi

What Ken said. I’ve done just a few tests on curves, and there’s a limit. If you plan it out I think you’d be fine.


----------



## Keebler1

Xtool has a good rotary out for lasers but it is expensive


----------



## DavePolaschek

Apropos of nothing much in particular, I got around to milling the first of the Rocky Mountain Juniper I got from a fellow LumberJock just after my back surgery. This was a piece that had a pretty bad twist in it, so I cut it in half lengthwise before processing it. All of the pieces are between 3/8 and 1/2 inch thick. 









It’s going to be fun making stuff from that, I think.


----------



## therealSteveN

Beautiful wood Dave.


----------



## pottz

RyanGi said:


> What Ken said. I’ve done just a few tests on curves, and there’s a limit. If you plan it out I think you’d be fine.


yeah it would just be a single line down the length of the pen. i do like that you can place it on anything you want rather being limited by what would fit in most lasers.


----------



## RyanGi

I did a little practice stuff on some slightly curved surfaces today (leather and wood) and it did well. I think, as long as the parts to the pen aren’t too bulbous, it would be easy work. I would assume you would burn it before the CA finish, but it would be interesting to burn one after the finish is on and see how that works.

The one I got will burn a pretty deep impression into the woods I’ve tried it on. Which could be cool in some regards, but I don’t know if that would mess up applying the finish (at least a CA finish on a lathe).


----------



## pottz

RyanGi said:


> I did a little practice stuff on some slightly curved surfaces today (leather and wood) and it did well. I think, as long as the parts to the pen aren’t too bulbous, it would be easy work. I would assume you would burn it before the CA finish, but it would be interesting to burn one after the finish is on and see how that works.
> 
> The one I got will burn a pretty deep impression into the woods I’ve tried it on. Which could be cool in some regards, but I don’t know if that would mess up applying the finish (at least a CA finish on a lathe).


post some pic's if you can ?


----------



## northwoodsman

RyanGi, See if you can use a universal rotary attachment for your laser. They are fairly basic, you can even build one. They have one on Amazon for $49 that only goes down to 25mm between rollers but they have an Atomstack for $89 that looks promising. They can be very frustrating but once you figure them out they are really simple. YouTube will become your best friend. My first one worked right out of the box but I sold my first laser and included it. My second laser came with a newer version of the same one. It had the wrong connector on one end with the included cable so I replaced that and on the other end two wires were reversed so it wanted to run backwards. Once I figured that out it was fine. You will likely have to go into your software ( I use Lightburn) and create a new profile for it because two things are very different but I don't recall what they are off hand. I have engraved pens with and with out, it's worth it. You get an even engraving. I haven't tried finishing with CA glue AFTER engraving, I'm afraid the engraving wouldn't be as noticeable after it's done.


----------



## EricFai

Dave, nice looking Juniper, that should make some beautiful projects.


----------



## RyanGi

Some basic examples of some quick work on wood, leather and plastic. I’m on shift so I just kinda burned whatever I could find. You can change the intensity and speed of the engraving to better match the material and tune it in for the best results. I got it sorted for some sapele I was working with and it didn’t need any sanding or cleanup at all, it was perfect right off the machine. I ran the ‘Pen’ a little bit hot (on plastic) but it still worked out. The mop handle came out fine, but I was more impressed with the clarity of the print on hardwood samples I did at home.

One of the pics shows how I propped it up to get the correct offset. You can also manually spin a lens on the emitter to focus the beam tightly, and there is a jog function and mechanics ‘preview’ to help with alignment. 

Also a quick pick with some items it comes with and a pen for scale.


----------



## duckmilk

I know nothing about this Ryan, but I noticed the mop handle was old. It may have worked even better on a new handle. Still looks good though. The leather came out very clean.


----------



## BigShooter

I made an etcher years ago. I never thought about the ethics of etching a blade I didn't make. But I also didn't etch my mark, just the name of the person I was giving the knife to.


----------



## Keebler1

It wouldnt effect the ca finish it just may require a couple more coats to even it out


----------



## ToddJB

Kenny, I don't even mark the ******************** I make every part of. I can't have that liability weighing me down. Ha

For real though I am paralyzed in regards to a markers mark for 3 reasons.

1 - I definitely struggle with imposter syndrome - I am such a harsh critic of myself that I don't feel worthy of putting my name on stuff - I'm getting over it, but it's still a struggle

2 - I can't come up with a freaking name that I'd be happy to stick with. My last name is good, Blackstone, but from a trademark perspective, the grilling company and Fastenal already have Blackstone trademarked for knives

3 - No name, no design.

My life is really hard guys.


----------



## RyanGi

northwoodsman said:


> RyanGi, See if you can use a universal rotary attachment for your laser. …


I think this engraver is so basic there won’t be any sort of an interface for that sort of a thing. It’s proprietary app-based software and, while it’s pretty complete, I don’t think it’ll work with outside software.


----------



## RyanGi

Todd- you could just do something simple like a big ‘B’ in a circle or something. Doesn’t have to be ornate, just something simple looks great.


----------



## duckmilk

I tried to get a touchmark made during the beer swap. My nephew knows a guy that makes them. So I left a message on his website but never heard back. My mark would have been my livestock brand.


----------



## RyanGi

Duck, how are you planning to apply it? I can make you a scalable graphic if that’s all you need.


----------



## recycle1943

pottz said:


> dick we'd love to see more from you besides a check in buddy.so how did the show go ? ill bet good because im one of the fortunate that has one of dicks bowls and lamps.top notch guys !!!! 😁


Thanks Pottz, I'm always around but I don't fly in the same air space so rarely do I have anything to add to the fray. The show went well despite the cold rain for 2 days. It's becoming more and more obvious that if people are wandering around in the rain they are buyers for somebody. Sunday was a beautiful sunny warm day and that brought out the car show group and there was a (I'm told) bunch of nice vehicles for the car show. We have also found out that the car people would rather buy a can of wax for their car than a cheese slicer or bowl or anything for their wife. Not a problem tho because there's room for everybody.

regarding marking products - I make so many different items that I only mark my bowls and lamps unless a signature is asked for.


----------



## duckmilk

RyanGi said:


> Duck, how are you planning to apply it? I can make you a scalable graphic if that’s all you need.


With a hammer on hot steel, it was to leave a mark on the metal part of the hash knife handle.


----------



## RyanGi

Ah, ok, so not something that needs a graphic file, but rather a smyth type kind of thing.


----------



## therealSteveN

Duck, the guy that did my brand, logo pic, also made one for my Wife for her baskets. Both of ours are electrics, but he does do metal engravings, which is essentially what you want for making an imprint onto hot metal. Your use is whacking it with a hammer, to imprint it, but for the tool to use they are vastly similar to just pressing them into wood. He was a great guy, easy to work with, especially if you knew what you wanted as a mark. All he would need is a picture, and your specs on size wanted. Now the metal hardness may end up different, but he could do that work, and I about guarantee he will get back to you.

Terry Desilets he owns Custom Branding Irons.


----------



## RyanGi

Ah, ok, so not something that needs a graphic file, but rather a smyth type kind of thing.


----------



## Keebler1

Well ordered sanding belts to finish the scales on my project. Had to order from amazon. Unfortunately highest grit is 600 grit in the pack but that should work. Went to combat abrasives and they require minimum of 9 of each grit belt you want and empire abrasives was gonna be around $32 for my order. Was able to get air brush cleaner and my sanding belts for under $30


----------



## RyanGi

TruGrit didn’t have minimums. It did take a few days to get it shipped.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

i am seriously thinking on starting pen turning only thing is i am very confused i was looking at penn state there starter kit is 400.00 is that a good start or what am looking for GR8 ADVICE thanks so much for your help 😁


----------



## Keebler1

Tony do you already have a lathe?


----------



## Keebler1

I see what you are looking at Tony the penpal setup. I havent heard too much about that but personally I would stay away from it since all you will be able to do is pens and stuff like that. I would look at this, or this set. With the cheaper set you dont get a press but that can be done cheaply with accessories on the lathe or a clamp. You will need a way to sharpen the tools. These sets will allow you to turn smaller bowls and other stuff as you get to turning. HSS has a learning curve to it as well. You may want to throw in some carbide tools. The slimlines arent the greatest pen kits. They are cheap and also one of the harder kits to turn and get right cause of the way it is made everything has to line up exactly right. If I were you I would look for a nova or jet lathe that is variable speed and start piecing parts together for pens and bowls etc. If you plan on a trip to dallas tx area I know Doubleg48 probably still has a nova lathe and stand for sale for a decent price. You cant beat Dave Kelleys carbide tools either. What style pens are you looking at making? Rollerball, fountain, ballpoint twist or click pens?


----------



## pottz

thats pretty damn impressive for the cost.real nice job on leather.you may have sold me !


Keebler1 said:


> Well ordered sanding belts to finish the scales on my project. Had to order from amazon. Unfortunately highest grit is 600 grit in the pack but that should work. Went to combat abrasives and they require minimum of 9 of each grit belt you want and empire abrasives was gonna be around $32 for my order. Was able to get air brush cleaner and my sanding belts for under $30


9 each ? man i was gonna order some for the new sander ive got coming but thats way more than i wanna do.


----------



## Keebler1

Tony one suggestion I would make if you wanted to start pen turning is check your local woodcraft. It looks like there are a couple close to you. A pen turning class runs about $100 and you will find out really quick if you like it and get hooked or if you don't like it.


----------



## Keebler1

Tru grit doesnt have much in the way of 4x24 belts. Saw a 60 grit and it was sold out. You might have some luck just stopping by their store Pottz. Although it is about a 1.5hr drive for you to get to ontario from where you are


----------



## duckmilk

Thanks George, I saved the link.



Keebler1 said:


> Went to combat abrasives and they require minimum of 9 of each grit belt you want


That's wierd Keebs, last order I got from them was 2 belts of different grits, the 200 one was about $7.


----------



## pottz

Keebler1 said:


> Tru grit doesnt have much in the way of 4x24 belts. Saw a 60 grit and it was sold out. You might have some luck just stopping by their store Pottz. Although it is about a 1.5hr drive for you to get to ontario from where you are


i sure loved the selection at combat though.i may still go for it.would be a several year supply probably.


----------



## Keebler1

duckmilk said:


> That's wierd Keebs, last order I got from them was 2 belts of different grits, the 200 one was about $7.


They may only have that quantity requirement on the 4x24 belts. I dont have a 2x72 but do have the rigid oscillating spindle/belt sander i bought for the last knife swap


----------



## pottz

keebs ive got a 2"x 48" sander so they show only 2 required which is fine.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

yes the lathe is all ihave 🥺


----------



## Keebler1

Tony I am assuming MT2. What type pens are you wanting to turn?


----------



## GR8HUNTER

yes MT2 not sure of pens at all


----------



## pottz

GR8HUNTER said:


> yes the lathe is all ihave 🥺


im kinda with keebs,i dont care for those starter sets too much,often get stuff you dont need or lesser quality.like i said i may have some stuff i can donate,im pretty sure ive got an extra pen mandrel.ill see what i got.i know many will argue againt this but id start with carbide tools,much easier to learn with.rockler has a nice set made just for pens and small items.


----------



## pottz

GR8HUNTER said:


> yes MT2 not sure of pens at all


the first pen i ever did was a slimline but id go with something a little beefier.i may have a few i could give you to start.ill give you some blanks too,ive got enough to last me a lifetime.be careful with keebs he's addicted to "plastic".................


----------



## RyanGi

GR8HUNTER said:


> yes the lathe is all ihave 🥺


And carbide tools don’t require sharpening equipment, which can be costly up front…


----------



## GR8HUNTER

i defiantly want to use wood only

hope you can see in cart =
Penn State Industries: Basket Contents


----------



## Keebler1

Ill send you some resin blanks tony. Youll be hooked. Easy to polish and no ca finish needed


----------



## GR8HUNTER

no then my tools wont work cause i dont have racked 😭


----------



## RyanGi

That no finishing idea is pretty cool…


----------



## pottz

Keebler1 said:


> Ill send you some resin blanks tony. Youll be hooked. Easy to polish and no ca finish needed


dont do it buddy he's like a pusher,tryin to get you hooked in his twisted world 😎


----------



## GR8HUNTER

i think we found him on a street corner somewhere 🤣 🤣 🤣 🤣


----------



## Keebler1

Tony here are some good kits you wont have issues with. I have turned all of these and like them. Make sure you have the proper drill bits and bushings. The multiple pen kit sets come with them but the diamond knurl rollerball doesnt. That kit takes jr bushings and there are multiple kits those bushings work for. I have pics of the starter set of tools. Mandrel, mandrel saver to keep from bowing the mandrel, the squaring jig and punches is used on a 6" disc sander. Make sure you can use a mitre guage with the sander. If you dont like that they have other squaring tools you can use but I dont like them. There is a set of pliers you can buy to grip your blanks to disassemble the pen with those punches. They would be a good idea to get or figure another way to do it where you dont mar the blank. I showed a pic of a press setup for the lathe. They do sell presses seperatley for $50 plus dollars if you dont like those. Also you will need a way to hokd the bla k and drill it out for the tube wither with a drill press or with pen jaws for your chuck and drill on the lathe. I have screwed a wood board to my mitre gauge on my band saw and put a stop block on it the length of the tube adding about 1/16" to cut the blanks. I would use 2 part epoxy to glue blanks up instead of ca glue. Hopefully I didnt forget anything. I would rather deal with exotic blanks, turners warehouse, then penn state for my kits and supplies. I find I get better service from turners warehouse or exotic blanks than penn state. Of course you will also need sandpaper. I prefer to use abranet. There is a place in TN that sells it by the foot and he send it in rolls so you can cut what you need off.


----------



## pottz

GR8HUNTER said:


> i think we found him on a street corner somewhere 🤣 🤣 🤣 🤣


seriously though ive done some plastic pens.and keebs is pretty damn good at it.


----------



## Keebler1

You dont have to have a negative rake carbide for resin pens but it makes it easier. You just have to take lighter cuts with regular carbide on resin. Stay away from the acrylester crap penn state and woodcraft sell. Some of penn states resin blanks are alumilite and a lot of turners warehouse and exotic blanks are as well. Also check out Zac Higgins webaite for blanks. He uses alumilite and they are good quality.


----------



## RyanGi

Keebs how does HHS do on resin blanks? I’ve never turned anything more than resin inlays.


----------



## Keebler1

I have turned one resin blank with hss and blew it apart but I have only used hss steel a couple of times and that was probably the second time using hss. I need to work more with hss but it doesnt feel natural to me. One of these days Im gonna take my toils to nathans and get a lesson with hss tools


----------



## Keebler1

Turn the sound off and watch this video. Forward to the blue and whit truck and watch it. A lot of it you have to look at the reflection in the window to see whats going on. The commentator is annoying and you cant hear the guys yelling in it. Guy in the white teuck gets out with a gun at first


----------



## pottz

Keebler1 said:


> Turn the sound off and watch this video. Forward to the blue and whit truck and watch it. A lot of it you have to look at the reflection in the window to see whats going on. The commentator is annoying and you cant hear the guys yelling in it. Guy in the white teuck gets out with a gun at first


so you were the guy in the blue truck ?


----------



## HokieKen

Ok Tony, I looked at the PSI site now. I didn’t know you were looking at a starter kit that included a lathe. I thought you have a lathe already? If not, that may not be a bad deal. I really don’t know much about their lathes and whether they’re any good or not.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

no i have lathe and carbide cutters i was just confused by all the mandrels end cutters bushings i thinks i have all the drill bits and ca glue i need presses how to hold to drill all stuff confusing 
🤪 🤪 🤪


----------



## pottz

HokieKen said:


> Ok Tony, I looked at the PSI site now. I didn’t know you were looking at a starter kit that included a lathe. I thought you have a lathe already? If not, that may not be a bad deal. I really don’t know much about their lathes and whether they’re any good or not.


no he's got a lathe he was just asking about the starter kit.


----------



## pottz

pottz said:


> no he's got a lathe he was just asking about the starter kit.


guess we were typing together-lol.


----------



## Keebler1

Tony hopefully what I posted helps. If coyrse thats a start. How deep down the rabbit hole you go depends on yoyr insanity. Dont worry I dont think youll catch me


----------



## HokieKen

Keebler the minimum from combat is probably because of the size. 4x24 is an unusual size so they probably have to custom make them to rder rather than stocking inventory.

Tony, like I said in the beer thread, I’ll send you a mandrel. I’ll see if I have any other odds and ends too. I really like the designer kits for nice kits in the lower price range.

Do you have a jacobs chuck for your talistock and a chuck for your headstock? If so, that’s how I like to drill my blanks out. And I use a regular old vise to press them together. I do recommend a barrel trimmer to square everything up after gluing the tubes in. It’s not a necessity but I find it handy.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

yes i have a Jocob's for tail


----------



## pottz

HokieKen said:


> Keebler the minimum from combat is probably because of the size. 4x24 is an unusual size so they probably have to custom make them to rder rather than stocking inventory.
> 
> Tony, like I said in the beer thread, I’ll send you a mandrel. I’ll see if I have any other odds and ends too. I really like the designer kits for nice kits in the lower price range.
> 
> Do you have a jacobs chuck for your talistock and a chuck for your headstock? If so, that’s how I like to drill my blanks out. And I use a regular old vise to press them together. I do recommend a barrel trimmer to square everything up after gluing the tubes in. It’s not a necessity but I find it handy.


i just placed an order for some 2"x 48" belts for my sander coming.only two of each size required.thanks for the recommendation duck.


----------



## northwoodsman

Tony, Don't purchase any barrel trimmers or bushings until you purchase the pen kits. Pen kits all take different size bushings and barrel trimmers. Many barrel trimmers overlap, only a few bushings do. Penn State Industries products can be purchased at many retailers other than Penn State Industries also. Another source that I like to use is Craft Supplies USA.
Craft Supplies USA


----------



## GR8HUNTER

craft supply is what youtube i watched i like their roadster pen is kewl looking


----------



## duckmilk

What do you guys do with worn out metal cutting bandsaw blades? Toss them? I've messed up two in the last couple of months, wore the teeth off one and the other has missing teeth and other problems.


----------



## Keebler1

Tony that roadster pen kit is similar to a slimline. Everything has to line up right or it looks/feels off while writing. Also the ink refill is a cross refill which while it writes better than the bics is not the best writing refill. Not trying to steer you away just letting you know. Some people enjoy turning slimlines


----------



## pottz

Keebler1 said:


> Tony that roadster pen kit is similar to a slimline. Everything has to line up right or it looks/feels off while writing. Also the ink refill is a cross refill which while it writes better than the bics is not the best writing refill. Not trying to steer you away just letting you know. Some people enjoy turning slimlines


yeah if you wanna sell or give pens as gifts to woman ya kinda need to make some.not many woman like cigar pens 😎


----------



## Keebler1

They like sierras and rollerballs as well Pottz. Just ask my wife who has a couple of mine.


----------



## pottz

Keebler1 said:


> They like sierras and rollerballs as well Pottz. Just ask my wife who has a couple of mine.


yes those are good.


----------



## DavePolaschek

duckmilk said:


> What do you guys do with worn out metal cutting bandsaw blades? Toss them? I've messed up two in the last couple of months, wore the teeth off one and the other has missing teeth and other problems.


I cut them (and other dead blades) down into lengths that’ll fit into a USPS small flat-rate box. When I get enough to fill a box, I send them to my friend back in MN who smiths and he will make funny patterned Damascus out of them. He also uses bicycle chains, case-hardened (as opposed to good steel) files, and other interesting bits of metal. I think he had one blade that was a bunch of old car keys. Not necessarily the best steel, but he sells those as art.


----------



## Keebler1

One handle fully sanded the other shaped and sanded to 120 grit. Waiting on nelts to finish. Where did our buddies list go?


----------



## EricFai

Keebler1 said:


> One handle fully sanded the other shaped and sanded to 120 grit. Waiting on nelts to finish. Where did our buddies list go?


Go to your account settings, scroll down, listed under following on the left side window.


----------



## Keebler1

Got it thanks


----------



## EricFai

Kebbler, I'm finding my way around finally, so this may turn out to be good after all. I just want the favorite option back with the projects. Guess I should have a open spreadsheet to copy the URL into with my notes.


----------



## pottz

EricFai said:


> Kebbler, I'm finding my way around finally, so this may turn out to be good after all. I just want the favorite option back with the projects. Guess I should have a open spreadsheet to copy the URL into with my notes.


yeah ive pretty much got the hang of it finally.as for getting our favs back,cricket said,dont count on it.


----------



## RyanGi

So, plan A is about 85% done
Plan B is about 30% done
Plan C is at about 5% but at least the parts are ordered...
Plan D is hovering at an unhealthy 0%...but there's hope for it yet
At least I'll have something to ship!!!


----------



## GR8HUNTER

i do not know much about my poor victim so i will take a guess 

my knifes and gifts are done now as always the food part as i always send food from Pa. dutch 🤣 🤣


----------



## builtinbkyn

GR8HUNTER said:


> i do not know much about my poor victim so i will take a guess
> 
> my knifes and gifts are done now as always the food part as i always send food from Pa. dutch 🤣 🤣


Tony Shoofly pie always needs a good knife  Yeah I've been watching from the other end of the state lol


----------



## GR8HUNTER

builtinbkyn said:


> Tony Shoofly pie always needs a good knife  Yeah I've been watching from the other end of the state lol


yes it does im glad your following along Bill i missed you how have you been ? 🤪 🤪


----------



## Lazyman

pottz said:


> yeah ive pretty much got the hang of it finally.as for getting our favs back,cricket said,dont count on it.


Got the the post where she gave the bad news and leave a sad face like I did. Even better reply and tell her how you feel about it that oversight. 









Community Feedback: New Forum Software Is Live!


I've been searching through my profile trying to access project Favorites that I saved in the old site. I can't seem to locate them anywhere. Am I missing something, or is this feature no longer available? My apologies if this has been asked and answered elsewhere. I did scroll through forum...




www.lumberjocks.com


----------



## Lazyman

EricFai said:


> Go to your account settings, scroll down, listed under following on the left side window.


You can also see buddies by going to profile and clicking the About tab. You can see who is following *you *there as well. 

I have not found any benefit to following people though. There do not seem to be any notifications associated with them? Have any of you seen notifications related to your buddies list?


----------



## HokieKen

Bill! Yo!


----------



## pottz

Lazyman said:


> Got the the post where she gave the bad news and leave a sad face like I did. Even better reply and tell her how you feel about it that oversight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Community Feedback: New Forum Software Is Live!
> 
> 
> I've been searching through my profile trying to access project Favorites that I saved in the old site. I can't seem to locate them anywhere. Am I missing something, or is this feature no longer available? My apologies if this has been asked and answered elsewhere. I did scroll through forum...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.lumberjocks.com


oh man she's heard it loud and clear from many.i dont it's something she can fix.that was a big mistake from the IT team that did the migration.that was not thought out well 🤬


----------



## pottz

builtinbkyn said:


> Tony Shoofly pie always needs a good knife  Yeah I've been watching from the other end of the state lol


next swap that fits you get your butt in here


----------



## pottz

Lazyman said:


> You can also see buddies by going to profile and clicking the About tab. You can see who is following *you *there as well.
> 
> I have not found any benefit to following people though. There do not seem to be any notifications associated with them? Have any of you seen notifications related to your buddies list?


very little !


----------



## Lazyman

Very little is more than none?


----------



## EricFai

Nathan, no I have not received any notifications on any of the buddies posting anything, of course I have all the email notifications off at the moment. I will gradually turn a couple of them back on.


----------



## Lazyman

pottz said:


> oh man she's heard it loud and clear from many*.i dont it's something she can fix.*that was a big mistake from the IT team that did the migration.that was not thought out well 🤬


Frankly, I don't think we have been loud and clear enough how important those project favorites are. 

*I do not believe it is something that cannot be fixed.*. They are just links after all. It is a choice to not try to fix and cannot be that complex to convert because they converted my non-project favorites to bookmarks. Only the project favorites were left behind. 

Heck, give me access to the data and I'll bet that I could extract the info and prep it for a script to load them into the new system in a day or two.


----------



## Lazyman

builtinbkyn said:


> Yeah I've been watching from the other end of the state lol


Long time no see.


----------



## pottz

Lazyman said:


> Frankly, I don't think we have been loud and clear enough how important those project favorites are.
> 
> *I do not believe it is something that cannot be fixed.*. They are just links after all. It is a choice to not try to fix and cannot be that complex to convert because they converted my non-project favorites to bookmarks. Only the project favorites were left behind.
> 
> Heck, give me access to the data and I'll bet that I could extract the info and prep it for a script to load them into the new system in a day or two.





Lazyman said:


> Frankly, I don't think we have been loud and clear enough how important those project favorites are.
> 
> *I do not believe it is something that cannot be fixed.*. They are just links after all. It is a choice to not try to fix and cannot be that complex to convert because they converted my non-project favorites to bookmarks. Only the project favorites were left behind.
> 
> Heck, give me access to the data and I'll bet that I could extract the info and prep it for a script to load them into the new system in a day or two.


ok im with you,lets make some noise,you just go first though,im on the hot seat.been spanked 3 times already since the migration.gotta be careful,if ya know what i mean ? well your a good boy so probably not 🤣 heck ive had the pope vouch for me a couple times to stay on 😇


----------



## HokieKen

I agree that project favorites are a big loss for a lot of people. I didn't have a whole lot favorited but I did often go and browse the ones I did have marked for inspiration and ideas. 

Has anyone tried the Wayback machine to see if an old version of the site is archived? Maybe you can get your favorites from there? I can't use the Wayback on my work computer so I can't check...


----------



## MikeB_UK

Pretty sure the wayback machine won't let you sign in - only access the site in guest mode, so favourites won't be there


----------



## DavePolaschek

What Mike said. There might have been a way for you to see someone else’s favorites on the old site, but I’m almost positive the wayback machine wouldn’t have spidered those for all quarter of a million spammers users that existed on the site.

I feel lucky I made bookmarks for a dozen of my favoritest favorites on the old site, but now that we're talking about problems with the new site in this thread, there’s a distinct danger Cricket will move all these replies over to the site feedback thread, disrupting this thread. I hope not, but its happened to multiple conversations I’ve been involved in since the transfer.

To keep part of this knife-swap-related, I managed to apply epoxy to a number of things yesterday morning before our outing to the Classical Gas Museum, at least one of which was a knife tang. Hopefully today I will find that I can make some progress after we finish our yard work, and before its time for me to start baking our corn muffins for dinner.


----------



## Lazyman

HokieKen said:


> Has anyone tried the Wayback machine to see if an old version of the site is archived? Maybe you can get your favorites from there? I can't use the Wayback on my work computer so I can't check...


That was a good idea but Dave was right, mine at least weren't archived. You could actually see other peoples favorites but you might have to have been logged on to see them? When I tried to follow my favorites link, it gives an error that the crawler could not access the page. Here is my profile page. You should be able to change Lazyman to your ID to see your own. It looks like they stopped archiving the site several years ago. 














__





Lazyman @ LumberJocks.com ~ woodworking community







web.archive.org


----------



## builtinbkyn

Tony, Nathan, Ken, yo, yo, yo!  I had quite a few projects favorited too. They were good for inspiration and for how to's. Have a few house projects planned and maybe even finally getting that dining table done this winter lol I'll be around more often.


----------



## Lazyman

Oh wait! Some of you may have favorites out there. I was able to bring up Kenny's -- the first page of them anyway. Looks like the latest one is from 2017 so it probably doesn't have the latest ones but something is better than nothing. 





__





HokieKen's Favorites @ LumberJocks.com ~ woodworking community







web.archive.org


----------



## MikeB_UK

Good catch Nathan
Replace [UserName] with your name in this URL & it will give you a timeline of what's saved
web.archive.org/web/20220000000000*/http://lumberjocks.com/[*UserName]*/favorites/projects











*So Pottz latest is at end of 2021 - you can click through to it from the timeline







*


----------



## pottz

MikeB_UK said:


> Good catch Nathan
> Replace [UserName] with your name in this URL & it will give you a timeline of what's saved
> web.archive.org/web/20220000000000*/http://lumberjocks.com/[*UserName]*/favorites/projects
> 
> View attachment 3855571
> 
> 
> 
> *So Pottz latest is at end of 2021 - you can click through to it from the timeline
> View attachment 3855570
> *


hmmmm maybe you found the trap door to the basement ?


----------



## pottz

pottz said:


> hmmmm maybe you found the trap door to the basement ?


ok i tried it,worked great i could see all my favorites no problem.id prefer they find a way to get them back on here though! i posted this on the feedback thread,so fat not a lot of hoopla ? thank you mike i would have nevr thought of this,


----------



## GR8HUNTER

all must be very busy knife building keep up the good work fellows


----------



## DavePolaschek

According to the forecast, we’re supposed to have all-day rain here, so I’m sure hoping I get to spend a lot of it in the shop…


----------



## pottz

GR8HUNTER said:


> all must be very busy knife building keep up the good work fellows


got my main one finished,just got a bonus one to finish and it's 80% there. 😁


----------



## Keebler1

Only 1 bonus Pottz....quit slacking lol


----------



## DavePolaschek

I forgot today was our day to go to the Dollar General and buy food for the local food pantry (because we had a $5 off $25 coupon that was only good today). So we did that and restocked the shelves a bit. $30 goes a long way when you don’t buy anything costing more than a dollar.

Then got home and got almost two hours in the shop, which, as it turns out, is just enough time to file away the excess wood and epoxy from around where the handle of the knife should be. No real shaping yet, just getting down to the lines. Ahh well. It was a pretty good morning.


----------



## pottz

Keebler1 said:


> Only 1 bonus Pottz....quit slacking lol


yeah but there spectacular keebs 😁 the beer swap wore me out😆


----------



## Keebler1

Got the handle to.my knife shaped thursday. Cant work on anything for the swap this weekend. Driving some equipment to florida for minuteman disaster response. The 2 other drivers think we have all the time in the world


----------



## RyanGi

Plan A moved up to 95% done today 👍🏼
Plan B to about 65% 🤞🏼
Plan C, no change at 5% 👎🏼
Plan D, no change at 0% 👎🏼

And now from the ‘Obviously’ files… a 2x72 burns up low grit belts pretty quick when you’re removing a fair about of stock. Dull belts get HOT and burn wood, especially burn-prone woods! Glad I got a larger pack of 46grit when I bought belts. Probably need to pick up at least a couple more 220s! Oh, and my neat-o blue knife vise is worth its weight in gold! Holds the work beautifully secure and if you’re not lazy and just use the adjustments it makes for a safer day! Now I need to find a band aide and some CA glue…


----------



## northwoodsman

Keebler1 said:


> Cant work on anything for the swap this weekend. Driving some equipment to florida for minuteman disaster response. The 2 other drivers think we have all the time in the world


Keebler you're a good person!!! Thanks for doing this and helping out our friends, family, and the residents in the SE U.S. that were impacted by Ian.👏👏


----------



## DavePolaschek

Youse guys with your electric sanders. I finished shaping things with the mill bastard file and got all the touchy surfaces hand sanded (perpendicular to the file marks) to 120 before putting on a coat of shellac so I can see where I need more work before moving up the grits. Used less than 1/8 sheet of sandpaper and the hardware-store file will be good for a dozen more knives.


----------



## pottz

well bonus knife 2 is in the finish stage.ive got start on a "accessory" item that will go with it ! and if time permits,an accessory item to go with knife #1.


----------



## pottz

DavePolaschek said:


> Youse guys with your electric sanders. I finished shaping things with the mill bastard file and got all the touchy surfaces hand sanded (perpendicular to the file marks) to 120 before putting on a coat of shellac so I can see where I need more work before moving up the grits. Used less than 1/8 sheet of sandpaper and the hardware-store file will be good for a dozen more knives.


now your just showin off buddy !!!!


----------



## duckmilk

pottz said:


> ...and if time permits...


You have more than a month left pottz, you could make 2 more knives in that time.


----------



## DavePolaschek

Got up to 400 grit before putting on some oil this morning. And then noticed one little gouge in one of the scales, so I’ll be working on that one again tomorrow. Might be able to clean it up with a knife and avoid a lot of dust, though.

But also resawed and dimensioned a scrap of white oak that will be a box for everything. Looks like it'll take a medium FRB for shipping, so someone will be getting an assortment of shorts…


----------



## pottz

duckmilk said:


> You have more than a month left pottz, you could make 2 more knives in that time.


you very funny duck


----------



## GR8HUNTER




----------



## duckmilk

You're right, I don't talk, I slur.


----------



## pottz

GR8HUNTER said:


> View attachment 3855870


perhaps youve never met our other duck,the little black duck ?


----------



## pottz

duckmilk said:


> You're right, I don't talk, I slur.


im sorry duck,what did you say ? 😁


----------



## therealSteveN

Lazyman said:


> Oh wait! Some of you may have favorites out there. I was able to bring up Kenny's -- the first page of them anyway. Looks like the latest one is from 2017 so it probably doesn't have the latest ones but something is better than nothing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HokieKen's Favorites @ LumberJocks.com ~ woodworking community
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> web.archive.org



So this change just continues to SUCK. A good thought though.

I got

*Hrm.*
The Wayback Machine has not archived that URL. In response to:





__





Loading…






web.archive.org






Overall just getting really tired of being tired of this crappy software. So weekly check in here.


----------



## pottz

therealSteveN said:


> So this change just continues to SUCK. A good thought though.
> 
> I got
> 
> *Hrm.*
> The Wayback Machine has not archived that URL. In response to:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Loading…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> web.archive.org
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall just getting really tired of being tired of this crappy software. So weekly check in here.


hey it's not what we want but i got all my fav's back wit the wayback machine ! if it's still archived then they should be able to migrate that info here ? if they want anyway ? thats a major thing for most here ! what dunb ass thought it wasn't ? fix it or fire em !!!!


----------



## HokieKen

RyanGi said:


> Plan A moved up to 95% done today 👍🏼
> Plan B to about 65% 🤞🏼
> Plan C, no change at 5% 👎🏼
> Plan D, no change at 0% 👎🏼
> 
> And now from the ‘Obviously’ files… a 2x72 burns up low grit belts pretty quick when you’re removing a fair about of stock. Dull belts get HOT and burn wood, especially burn-prone woods! Glad I got a larger pack of 46grit when I bought belts. Probably need to pick up at least a couple more 220s! Oh, and my neat-o blue knife vise is worth its weight in gold! Holds the work beautifully secure and if you’re not lazy and just use the adjustments it makes for a safer day! Now I need to find a band aide and some CA glue…


Yep, use a light touch on wood or you'll burn it. Especially with the finer grits. And keep a rubber block handy and use it often. What belts are you burning up? Lower grit belts last a long time for me.


----------



## EricFai

I'm still here, just been busy with some other projects that pay the bills. Need to get my butt in gear and work on the swap item. Prototype will work so I can proceed with the plan, Already have a bonus item taken care of. Maybe a second bonus if the time allows.


----------



## Keebler1

Well got home last night. Went to bed but woke up hot. A/c quit working. Luckily I have a portable ac unit in the shop. Turned it on and was wiping sawdust off the bed all night but slept decent. Anyone want to work on my ac so i dont have to pay someone


----------



## Keebler1

My 2 molds held up to the heat of the resin so I can turn thise this weekend. Also got my sanding belts in to finish another project


----------



## DavePolaschek

Started work on my bonus bonus item today. Trying something more difficult, but so far it’s going well.


----------



## HokieKen

I still haven't gotten started on my project but I'll have some free time this coming weekend and should finally be able to knock a big portion of it out.


----------



## DavePolaschek

Teaser for today. There’s wood inside that forest of clamps, I swear. 










It might even end up being something that ships to one of you.


----------



## RyanGi

HokieKen said:


> Yep, use a light touch on wood or you'll burn it. Especially with the finer grits. And keep a rubber block handy and use it often. What belts are you burning up? Lower grit belts last a long time for me.


I burned up a 46grit belt after 5 blanks…mostly practice work. But they were also cheap belts that I bought on Amazon while I was waiting for the nicer belts to come from TruGrit. I don’t think that’s too bad, and I think I was pushing it a bit hard anyway. The burning was coming on the 220grit belt, but that was also on burn-prone wood so I get that part… At least some of it is learning how the slack belt reacts too. I also burned a little trying to push into inside corners probably harder than I should. I’ve got a crepe block right there and use it regularly, as I’ve found that essential on my other sanders. It’s a new tool to me and there’s a learning curve, but WOW what a tool!


----------



## pottz

still waiting on my new jet sander,got notice it's should ship tomorrow.got some belts from combat that showed up today so im ready tp go.


----------



## duckmilk

Yeah Ryan, let the belt do the work, no need to put much pressure on it and check the results frequently.

I'm loving my combat belts pottz, bought extras in the finer grits and haven't had to use them yet, and, I've been using the grinder quite frequently lately on steel.


----------



## EricFai

I received my expected packages today. An order from Oneida Air, the cyclone and all of my duct work. Spent a few hours messing with the Wye's get and Elbows to figure up the best orientation at the junctions. Also figured out how to mount the duct work to the wall, need to make a drawing yet but the idea is in my head at least. I also connected the cyclone to the barrel that I acquired a couple of weeks ago and connected the 6" hose to the DC. Looks like it will be a bit of work to install the duct work.


----------



## pottz

duckmilk said:


> Yeah Ryan, let the belt do the work, no need to put much pressure on it and check the results frequently.
> 
> I'm loving my combat belts pottz, bought extras in the finer grits and haven't had to use them yet, and, I've been using the grinder quite frequently lately on steel.


to start i got a couple grits for wood and a couple fro steel.i didn't realize there in anaheim,ca. 1/2 or so from me. ill have to see if they have an actual store you can buy direct from ?


----------



## RyanGi

Pottz I couldn’t find an address looking quickly, but I’m sure it’s there. I did find out that they offer a veteran discount, which I think is really cool. I’m thinking my net purchases will be from them 👍🏼


----------



## HokieKen

RyanGi said:


> I burned up a 46grit belt after 5 blanks…mostly practice work. But they were also cheap belts that I bought on Amazon while I was waiting for the nicer belts to come from TruGrit. I don’t think that’s too bad, and I think I was pushing it a bit hard anyway. The burning was coming on the 220grit belt, but that was also on burn-prone wood so I get that part… At least some of it is learning how the slack belt reacts too. I also burned a little trying to push into inside corners probably harder than I should. I’ve got a crepe block right there and use it regularly, as I’ve found that essential on my other sanders. It’s a new tool to me and there’s a learning curve, but WOW what a tool!


5 steel blanks or wood blanks? Hopefully steel. In either case, you should get more than 5 blanks out of a belt depending on the type of steel and how much you're removing of course. And belts are definitely one of those things where you really do get what you pay for. Luckily they're also relatively inexpensive so you can waste a few figuring out what kinds you really like for the work you do. Pushing into corners can be problematic for belt wear and for burning wood because you are only using a small portion of the belt and you build up a lot of heat in the platen if you're pushing into the corner of it. I think Duck mentioned scalloped edge belts before and they may help. They will reduce heat to some degree (no pun intended) because they have the gaps. I don't have any problem using regular belts to get into tight corners but I have a glass platen epoxied onto my steel platen. I always recommend doing the same or being prepared to replace your steel platen occasionally. You'll just naturally tend to work in the same area of the platen a lot of the time so even with hardened steel, you'll eventually wear it out of flat. Glass will wear as well eventually but it will take longer and the glass has the advantage of reducing friction and heat buildup.

Not just any glass though, make sure it's a ceramic glass designed for high temp use. And make sure it's cut so the corners aren't chamfered or rounded off. I got mine from the ebay seller linked below.









Glass Platen for Grinders and Sanders 2" x 8" | eBay


Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Glass Platen for Grinders and Sanders 2" x 8" at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!



www.ebay.com


----------



## pottz

RyanGi said:


> Pottz I couldn’t find an address looking quickly, but I’m sure it’s there. I did find out that they offer a veteran discount, which I think is really cool. I’m thinking my net purchases will be from them 👍🏼


the address on the box was from anaheim,but that may just be a shipping warehouse ?


----------



## RyanGi

Yeah, the belt I burned up was a cheapy bulk buy from Amazon. I’m not surprised it didn’t last long. I’m fine with it since it was like 8 belts for $10 or something. I didn’t have much faith it them lasting and I’ve learned that I’d much rather trash a belt and use a fresh one that cuts fast and clean. Saving sandpaper is counter-productive!!!

The glass platen is a really good idea. Any idea how long it lasts vs. steel? Just curious.


----------



## HokieKen

RyanGi said:


> Yeah, the belt I burned up was a cheapy bulk buy from Amazon. I’m not surprised it didn’t last long. I’m fine with it since it was like 8 belts for $10 or something. I didn’t have much faith it them lasting and I’ve learned that I’d much rather trash a belt and use a fresh one that cuts fast and clean. Saving sandpaper is counter-productive!!!
> 
> The glass platen is a really good idea. Any idea how long it lasts vs. steel? Just curious.


Not really because I put the glass on pretty much as soon as I finished building my grinder. So far there's no noticeable wear but that may have been the case with a steel platen as well.


----------



## pottz

wooo hooo the new jet sander grinder is here !!!! 🥳😍😁 now the only issue,where the hell am i gonna put it 🤣 and no childish remarks please


----------



## RyanGi

No Childish remarks??? Hello pot, this is kettle, are you reading me?

Seriously, what about a flip top? Plenty of sun shines on a flip top 😜 and it’s an excuse to get one more tool!!

congrats on the new tool!


----------



## Keebler1

Pottz start bringing your tools inside. Eventually your wife will get tired of seeing you so much so she will give the go ahead to build a bigger shop


----------



## WoodenDreams

Did you get the 8" slow speed grinder


----------



## pottz

pottz said:


> wooo hooo the new jet sander grinder is here !!!! 🥳😍😁 now the only issue,where the hell am i gonna put it 🤣





RyanGi said:


> No Childish remarks??? Hello pot, this is kettle, are you reading me?
> 
> Seriously, what about a flip top? Plenty of sun shines on a flip top 😜 and it’s an excuse to get one more tool!!
> 
> congrats on the new tool!


are kidding she's gonna say,really another damn tool ! luckily on this one i got it through our company and i can have it taken out of my bonus check at the end of the year so she will never see a bill ! 😁


----------



## pottz

Keebler1 said:


> Pottz start bringing your tools inside. Eventually your wife will get tired of seeing you so much so she will give the go ahead to build a bigger shop


shops the size of a 4 car garage so ive got the space just got too much stuff.


----------



## pottz

WoodenDreams said:


> Did you get the 8" slow speed grinder


it's a jet 8" grinder with a 2" x 48" belt sander vs combo.


----------



## duckmilk

Here is the info from Combat on the scalloped belts plus a video of how they work. I have 2 but haven't used them yet. Guess I should experiment some.

Edit: All of the belts I have from them are directional which is clearly indicated on the inside.


----------



## RyanGi

Well I got the Mk3S back up and running! Turned out the stepper was just stuck, so, uh, now I’ve got a spare right side Z-axis stepper and drive screw. Oh well. Took a bit to get it back calibrated, and to remember what the hell I was doing!


----------



## duckmilk

Happy you got it running Ryan...what is it and what is that roll of wire (?) next to it?
Is it a laser engraver?


----------



## pottz

ok got the new jet all put together and she runs.damn nice grinder sander,at least first impressions.im gonna switch out the grinding wheel for a cbn wheel since ive already got a heavy duty vs grinder. i plan on building a small rolling bench to put all the sander grinder on together when time allows. i tell ya no matter how old we get ne big boy toys are as much fun now as when we were kids at xmas.


----------



## EricFai

You got an early Christmas present.


----------



## pottz

EricFai said:


> You got an early Christmas present.


ha ha the wife asked me yesterday, what do you want for christmas,i said,nothing baby im good 😁 😎


----------



## HokieKen

I ordered a track saw today for Christmas 😎


----------



## RyanGi

Yeah Duck, probably should have given a bit more info, given this is a woodworking site 😜 It’s a 3D printer made by a company called Prusa. It’s been stationary for a bit since I thought I had a bad stepper motor. Turns out it just needed a little persuasion and some exercise. Some of the guys on here use them as an accessory piece for some of their woodworking (making molds, I’ve seen it used to create templates, etc). To this point, I haven't done any of that, but I intend to! I was just excited it didn’t require 6 hours of rebuild and then a dozen hours of calibration!

The roll of ‘wire’ is actually the plastic filament that gets melted through the extruder to build the layers of whatever you’re producing. That particular roll of filament just happens to look like wire, that’s just the color of that particular roll! I’ve got lots…😛

I will say, I also acquired an el cheapo laser engraver that I’ve been using quite a bit. It’s nothing fancy, but it does a great job! I look at all of these just like they’re an other tools in the shop (which they are!). New age woodworking Duck, not for the faint of heart!! 😜


----------



## pottz

HokieKen said:


> I ordered a track saw today for Christmas 😎


which one ?


----------



## RyanGi

Merry Christmas Pottzy! You too Ken! Which saw did you order?


----------



## pottz

RyanGi said:


> Yeah Duck, probably should have given a bit more info, given this is a woodworking site 😜 It’s a 3D printer made by a company called Prusa. It’s been stationary for a bit since I thought I had a bad stepper motor. Turns out it just needed a little persuasion and some exercise. Some of the guys on here use them as an accessory piece for some of their woodworking (making molds, I’ve seen it used to create templates, etc). To this point, I haven't done any of that, but I intend to! I was just excited it didn’t require 6 hours of rebuild and then a dozen hours of calibration!
> 
> The roll of ‘wire’ is actually the plastic filament that gets melted through the extruder to build the layers of whatever you’re producing. That particular roll of filament just happens to look like wire, that’s just the color of that particular roll! I’ve got lots…😛
> 
> I will say, I also acquired an el cheapo laser engraver that I’ve been using quite a bit. It’s nothing fancy, but it does a great job! I look at all of these just like they’re an other tools in the shop (which they are!). New age woodworking Duck, not for the faint of heart!! 😜


yeah that laser is on my radar bud.i know the wants to get me one for xmas im sure 😁


----------



## HokieKen

I just ordered the 7.25” Wen tracksaw. I don’t have a lot of use for one so I wasn’t going to spend Festool money, or even Makita money. But the Wen seemed like a solid tool in the budget friendly neighborhood.


----------



## pottz

HokieKen said:


> I just ordered the 7.25” Wen tracksaw. I don’t have a lot of use for one so I wasn’t going to spend Festool money, or even Makita money. But the Wen seemed like a solid tool in the budget friendly neighborhood.


should serve you well for occasional use.ive had the dewalt for about 12 years now and ive only used now and then,it's been a great saw. they sure beat wrestling with a 90# sheet of melamine on a table saw alone.


----------



## Keebler1

I almost got the Wen but got lucky with a dewalt. Still have to use it but it will get plenty of use shortly


----------



## RyanGi

HokieKen said:


> I just ordered the 7.25” Wen tracksaw. I don’t have a lot of use for one so I wasn’t going to spend Festool money, or even Makita money. But the Wen seemed like a solid tool in the budget friendly neighborhood.


Nice Ken! I don’t use my track saw all the time but, man, when it’s the right tool there is nothing better. Good for you!


----------



## Lazyman

HokieKen said:


> I just ordered the 7.25” Wen tracksaw. I don’t have a lot of use for one so I wasn’t going to spend Festool money, or even Makita money. But the Wen seemed like a solid tool in the budget friendly neighborhood.


You have a project in the works that caused you to buy it now?


----------



## Keebler1

Kennys budget is like the governments. He either uses it all or his wife takes whats left and next year his budget drops


----------



## EarlS

Looks like I'm getting a Tormek T-7 for Halloween, and a set of Tormek wood turner's sharpening jigs for Thanksgiving. Not sure yet what I'm getting for Christmas. I also got permission to restock the lumber stack. 

Between my wife wanting lots of new wood furniture and my daughter who just bought her first house, I'll be keeping busy in the shop for a long time. My daughter has also requested that I refinish all of the hardwood floors, renovate the kitchen and install new doors and trim in addition to building furniture for her. Somewhere in all of this I can see justification for a new miter saw.


----------



## Lazyman

You are going to want a track saw too, Earl, unless you already have one. The kitchen renovation will probably see you cutting a lot of plywood unless you buy cabinets ready to install or just refinish or reface them.


----------



## HokieKen

Lazyman said:


> You have a project in the works that caused you to buy it now?


Treehouse was the main one. I haven’t got to the actual house part yet but between the roof, floors and walls, there will be sheet goods aplenty. And it’s too far to haul themback and forth between the treehouse and the shop to use the table saw.


----------



## HokieKen

Keebler1 said:


> Kennys budget is like the governments. He either uses it all or his wife takes whats left and next year his budget drops


I told my wife yesterday when I ordered the track saw that it was the first tool I'd bought in a long time so I was kinda excited. She said "well what's all the stuff you buy on Ebay all the time then?" Beanie Babies. I get no flack for buying tools these days. For every $100 I spend on tools she spends $1000 on trips and toys for grandkids  so she doesn't challenge my budget requests.



EarlS said:


> ...
> 
> Between my wife wanting lots of new wood furniture and my daughter who just bought her first house, I'll be keeping busy in the shop for a long time. My daughter has also requested that I refinish all of the hardwood floors, renovate the kitchen and install new doors and trim in addition to building furniture for her. Somewhere in all of this I can see justification for a new miter saw.


I was pondering the same due to my treehouse project Earl. My Hitachi CMS is fine for what I use it for but that's pretty much just construction-type jobs. But I've had several tubaeights I've had to miter the ends on for bracing on the platform structures and it won't miter all the way through so I have to cut from both sides which is a PITA. So I was trying to decide if I wanted to petition for new SCMS. But, I think I've decided to just muddle through with what I have because it's just too much money for something that just sits on the shelf 99% of the time.


----------



## EarlS

HokieKen said:


> So I was trying to decide if I wanted to petition for new SCMS. But, I think I've decided to just muddle through with what I have because it's just too much money for something that just sits on the shelf 99% of the time.


I bought a SCMS when we moved into the new house 3 years ago but I sold it within a month or so because it took up so much space and I never used it. I could get along just fine with a basic 10" compound miter saw.


----------



## RyanGi

For anyone who might be interested, the 3M Extract Sanders are on sale for Amazon Prime Day (early). Looks like most of them are 15% off. Pretty good deal!


----------



## recycle1943

Track saw ? I don't have room for a full sheet of anything so when I need sheet goods of any kind I usually buy a full sheet and have it cut into 2' x 4' pieces then make my projects fit. Yeah I always end up with some stuff that I eventually get tired of looking at and they get pitched. One of the nice things about living in a small community is that our trash guy is local and he has a burn pile at one of his properties where he keeps a couple of his trucks. Just drive out throw burnables on the pile and when he sees fit, he lights it.
btw - this is my weekly check in - -


----------



## ToddJB

Kenny, track saws are a dream.

Knives* are coming along well. It's funny, I started with one design, and have built 3 nothing like it. We'll see how they finish up if I revisit the original idea.


----------



## HokieKen

My knives are usually much sharper than my ideas anyway Todd.


----------



## pottz

HokieKen said:


> My knives are usually much sharper than my ideas anyway Todd.


😁


----------



## duckmilk

I made a *********************************** version of a track saw guide. I bought a 4' piece of extruded aluminum U channel and screwed it to a 4' piece of melamine (?), ran the skill saw down both sides and have a guide that cuts right on the line.


----------



## RyanGi

That’s pretty close to what I used to use Duck, worked pretty good too!


----------



## HokieKen

I have done similar Duck but it was time to buy a new circular saw anyway so I landed on a tracksaw for the added ease and the plunge feature. Which I’ve always “plunged” my circular saw but this way should be a little safer…


----------



## pottz

HokieKen said:


> I have done similar Duck but it was time to buy a new circular saw anyway so I landed on a tracksaw for the added ease and the plunge feature. Which I’ve always “plunged” my circular saw but this way should be a little safer…


and more precise.your gonna love a track saw kenny.


----------



## RyanGi

And it’s really amazing how easy it is. The tracks have anti-slip pads and the cut-edge is absolutely exact…just. Lay the track down, line up the edge, and let ‘er rip. So fast!


----------



## Keebler1

Ryan have you had your track slip just laying it down? Debating wether i will use the clamps on mine or not


----------



## RyanGi

Not once. I used to worry about it, but it just doesn’t happen. I’ve got the makita and the rubber anti-slip is super grippy. They move around easy enough with no weight on them (although they’re still pretty ‘stuck’), but as soon as I set the saw on the track its rock solid.


----------



## Keebler1

Making dowels on a table saw


----------



## HokieKen

I know a lot of you knew Mike Johnson (drsurfrat) from past swaps. Just wanted to pass on the information I received from his wife this morning  

*Hi Kenny,*
_*
This is Eileen, Mike’s wife. Unfortunately I have sad news. Mike passed away on Oct. 6th. He so loved interacting with you all on LumberJocks as well as personal emails. I really enjoyed talking to him about what was going on “with the guys” . I’ve enclosed a link to his obituary. Please pass it on to anyone you think should know about him.

Michael A. Johnson
*_
*Eileen*


----------



## DavePolaschek

Thanks, Kenny. Damnit.

Today will be limbing up a juniper tree and hauling the branches to the community dumpster, plus hacking down a few dead cholla cactuses (enough to fill four 5-gallon buckets), so shop time will likely be minimal. And tomorrow’s my sweetie’s birthday. But I think I’m getting pretty close to done with the swap and bonus work. Its just the bonus bonus that still needs some hours.

And while waiting on other stuff, I got a second slab of rocky mountain juniper processed. The bigger pieces are 25x4¼x9/16. The smaller are still a “fat half” which is plenty, as I’m aiming to up make the fireplace cover these are going to be part of ⅜ thick. My sweetie is loving the look so far.










As a bonus, this batch of juniper, I managed to get it turned into boards without getting a sore throat or itchy eyes. Had the air filter running, the shop door open, and swept up right after finishing, then changed clothes after coming inside. There are still five slabs left to process, so I’m hoping I can get through those in the next couple weeks and start the actual build of the fireplace cover before Thanksgiving.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

HokieKen said:


> I know a lot of you knew Mike Johnson (drsurfrat) from past swaps. Just wanted to pass on the information I received from his wife this morning
> 
> *Hi Kenny,*
> 
> _*This is Eileen, Mike’s wife. Unfortunately I have sad news. Mike passed away on Oct. 6th. He so loved interacting with you all on LumberJocks as well as personal emails. I really enjoyed talking to him about what was going on “with the guys” . I’ve enclosed a link to his obituary. Please pass it on to anyone you think should know about him.
> 
> Michael A. Johnson*_
> 
> *Eileen*


SO SAD 😭 😭 😭


----------



## pottz

RyanGi said:


> Not once. I used to worry about it, but it just doesn’t happen. I’ve got the makita and the rubber anti-slip is super grippy. They move around easy enough with no weight on them (although they’re still pretty ‘stuck’), but as soon as I set the saw on the track its rock solid.


i usually clamp mine just in case,with the cost of quality plywoods these days i not takin a chance.


----------



## pottz

Keebler1 said:


> Making dowels on a table saw


doesn't work ?


----------



## pottz

HokieKen said:


> I know a lot of you knew Mike Johnson (drsurfrat) from past swaps. Just wanted to pass on the information I received from his wife this morning
> 
> *Hi Kenny,*
> 
> _*This is Eileen, Mike’s wife. Unfortunately I have sad news. Mike passed away on Oct. 6th. He so loved interacting with you all on LumberJocks as well as personal emails. I really enjoyed talking to him about what was going on “with the guys” . I’ve enclosed a link to his obituary. Please pass it on to anyone you think should know about him.
> 
> Michael A. Johnson*_
> 
> *Eileen*


another huge loss for everyone at lumber jocks. kenny pass this on to cricket so he gets added to the memorium.


----------



## Keebler1

pottz said:


> doesn't work ?


It is a facebook video. I click the link there and it works on my end


----------



## pottz

Keebler1 said:


> It is a facebook video. I click the link there and it works on my end


i dont use facebook so no bueno !


----------



## therealSteveN

Weekly check in here. Amazing the amount of shop time when I'm not wasting time trying to find whatever I didn't really need to see here. Getting all sorts of things done, and spending too much $$$$$$ on everything I need to do this or that, but having a blast.


----------



## Lazyman

This is a gut punch. Mike has been in a couple of swaps.









drsurfrat


In loving memory of drsurfrat. Michael "Mike" Anthony Johnson, age 55, passed away on October 6, 2022. After a hard-fought battle with cancer, Mike went peacefully, in his home, surrounded by his loving family. Mike was an adoring husband, dedicated father, honorable son, loving brother, and...




www.lumberjocks.com


----------



## HokieKen

Yes it is Nathan. I kept in touch with Mike through his treatment and it was a quick and brutal progression. I'll definitely miss him.


----------



## RyanGi

therealSteveN said:


> Weekly check in here. Amazing the amount of shop time when I'm not wasting time trying to find whatever I didn't really need to see here. Getting all sorts of things done, and spending too much $$$$$$ on everything I need to do this or that, but having a blast.


I’ve become more and more convinced that LJs swaps are building my tool crib faster than anything else could!


----------



## Lazyman

I salvaged a DC motor from a treadmill my neighbor discarded last week. Unfortunately, the driver board was toast but I ordered some electronics last night to see if I can get it to work for a future belt grinder or something.


----------



## Lazyman

Kenny, do you know what kind of cancer Mike had?


----------



## HokieKen

Lazyman said:


> Kenny, do you know what kind of cancer Mike had?


No I don't. He never offered the information and I never asked for it.


----------



## pottz

only 55 too damn young !!!!


----------



## pottz

at least this time we get to know what happened.most of the time guys dont talk about it and one day the posts stop and we wonder where they went ?


----------



## duckmilk

That is really sad news about Mike 😢 He was a fun guy to have participating in the swaps.


----------



## duckmilk

The plunge feature with track saws would have come in handy with a lot of things.
My skill saw is a left-handed Porter Cable which I use right-handed. I got tired of leaning over my previous saw in order to see if the blade was still on the line.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

i talked with mike before never mentioned to me he had cancer and seems thats all i do bitch about my health 🥺 🥺


----------



## HokieKen

Mike didn’t find out until a few months ago Tony so he may not have even known. It moved quickly once he was diagnosed.


----------



## pottz

many people just dont want others to know,they dont want people feeling sorry for them.ill be like tony,crying to you guys everyday. 🤣 i think we all need to do whatever helps get us through it.it's nice having friends you can share your feelings with.we have a friend, young girl about 32, has stage 4 cancer,all through her body.they removed pretty much all her lady parts they could and now she's on 6 rounds of chemo.always has a smile and upbeat.they say 3-5 years,i told her bull******************** if anyone can beat it it's her.i said lets plan a party,5 years from now ! she inspires me everyday


----------



## duckmilk

Nice inspiring story about your friend pottz. Hope she gets to have her 5 year party.


----------



## DavePolaschek

Got some shop time this evening. Just enough to clean things up and get a coat of tung oil on the bonus bonus. And start making a tiny (1¾x2½x4 inch) birch and apple box. Not sure what’ll go in that, but I keep finding uses for little boxes, and otherwise the scraps would’ve ended up in the garbage.

Sounds like tomorrow we’re clearing out a half dozen cholla and a bunch of chamisa from the yard. The neighborhood has been filling a roll-off with green waste in about 18 hours, and hopefully the sixth one (since October 7th) will be here tomorrow morning.

Edited to add: I also discovered one of the pieces parts I was working on today required a T-5 driver. I had one, but I’m pretty sure its the first time I’ve ever used it.


----------



## HokieKen

You might be a *********************************** if... this is in the free section of your local Craigslist:





__





Beer,(6pack,budwiser) - free stuff


My husband is gone hate to threw out its free u come get it ,been in ref for 3 months



blacksburg.craigslist.org


----------



## recycle1943

HokieKen said:


> You might be a *********************************** if... this is in the free section of your local Craigslist:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Beer,(6pack,budwiser) - free stuff
> 
> 
> My husband is gone hate to threw out its free u come get it ,been in ref for 3 months
> 
> 
> 
> blacksburg.craigslist.org


Dublin is about a 5 hour round trip for me so I'll pass and just spend that same amount of time between the shop and my beer fridge in the shop.
(don't mis-understand, I won't touch an electrical tool with even one beer in my belly)


----------



## Keebler1

Still needs final washing and cure but this resin print looks cool


----------



## RyanGi

Keebs is that from the SL-1?


----------



## Keebler1

No dont have the money for the sl1. Thats off the creality halot one with some cheap resin. I paid $18 for 1kg of this stuff. I am used to paying $20+ for 500g of resin


----------



## RyanGi

Looks like pretty solid resolution.


----------



## Keebler1

Gonna paint that one. Just have to get time. My knife swap items are almost done. Have to put finish on my knife handle. Have to sand and finish a couple more pieces. Debating on a finish for one. I used some dye on a piece of wood. What should I put over it to finish it?


----------



## duckmilk

Are you wearing fuzzy slippers in that picture Keebs?


----------



## Keebler1

No Duck thats the dogs toy


----------



## duckmilk

Thank goodness 😉


----------



## Keebler1

Lates pen blanks. Green, orange, peonix orange, and antique gold


----------



## Lazyman

duckmilk said:


> Thank goodness 😉


Come on.  Everyone knows that Keebler only wears clown shoes.


----------



## HokieKen

Got a legit start on my swap project this evening. Hoping to get the bulk of it knocked out tomorrow 😎


----------



## Keebler1

I just put the third and final coat of finish on one item


----------



## duckmilk

Are you sending a 6 pack of bud with your project?


----------



## RyanGi

Got the last coat on Plans A & B, so we’re looking good there. Got the parts for Plan C, so hopefully get to work on that when I get back from work in a few days. Plan D….is slipping away, but not yet dead!!


----------



## pottz

Keebler1 said:


> Lates pen blanks. Green, orange, peonix orange, and antique gold
> View attachment 3856623


i cant wait to see what comes from those bud !


----------



## pottz

well im done with what i planned for,but with the time left im gonna shoot for a little extra, somethin pretty 😍


----------



## Keebler1

Im glad this group isnt hard to get things done for the swap. I am running a swap on facebook and have around 25 people who registered. Today is deadline for progress pics and I only have about 15


----------



## EricFai

Ouch, makes you think about running swaps.

i need to get back to working on mine over the weekend.


----------



## RyanGi

I feel like anything on Facebook is just ripe for chaos…it’s too bad it’s so heavily used, it would be great to get rid of it!


----------



## pottz

Keebler1 said:


> Im glad this group isnt hard to get things done for the swap. I am running a swap on facebook and have around 25 people who registered. Today is deadline for progress pics and I only have about 15


well theres your problem......facebook ! keebs no one does facebook anymore 💩


----------



## Lazyman

Reminds me of a Yogi Berra Quote: "No one goes there anymore. It is too crowded. "


----------



## pottz

Lazyman said:


> Reminds me of a Yogi Berra Quote: "No one goes there anymore. It is too crowded. "





Lazyman said:


> Reminds me of a Yogi Berra Quote: "No one goes there anymore. It is too crowded. "


crowded is not the problem ! a few years ago my wife says,hey i signed you up for facebook,and you got someone saying there your cousin and wanna be friends !!!!! well i said how fast can you erase me before i erase you ? lets just say she got me deleted real fast !!!! facebook, the biggest disease,bigger than the pandemic!!!!! stupid people just dont get it...............yet,anyway !!!!!  😎


----------



## recycle1943

imho - Facebook is whatever you want to make it.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

hello all i hope you guys are well just a friendly reminder to take pictures and note  😎


----------



## HokieKen

No Groot here Keebler but I got a Birthday Axotl to paint today…


----------



## recycle1943

GR8HUNTER said:


> hello all i hope you guys are well just a friendly reminder to* take pictures* and note  😎


Ooooopps


----------



## Keebler1

Whered you get that file at Kenny?


----------



## HokieKen

Keebler1 said:


> Whered you get that file at Kenny?











ARTICULATED AXOLOTL by kimseungwoo11


Description for commercial use of model of sunset 3d design The payment is twenty dollars Please make a deposit via PayPal Link: https://www.paypal.me/sunset3d https://www.paypal.me/sunset3d Commercial use is indefinite if you pay $20 once If you pay $20 once, the model and all of my models are...




www.thingiverse.com





It’s a really good model Keebs. I scaled it to 90% and printed with no supports and 10% infill and it printed perfectly.


----------



## Keebler1

Kenny have you printed the articulating dragon?


----------



## Keebler1

Kenny I am still waiting to see you print a rabid squirrell


----------



## HokieKen

No dragon yet but I probably will for a grandson for Christmas. I try to keep printed toys for special occasions so they don’t think I produce whatever they want on command😆

I’m pretty sure these are naturally occurring colors for Axolotl.


----------



## HokieKen

Little chainsaw work today too prepping some turning and carving blanks for Christmas gifts.


----------



## RyanGi

The crappy part is that it’s such an easy way to stay connected with a ton of people from your extended past. Even if just casually. All the folks from high school or your hometown, etc etc. I guess it’s just laziness because there are other ways to stay connected, but that one is definitely easy. I’d get rid of it, but there’s a little bit of FOMO that comes with that… I dunno.


----------



## RyanGi

HokieKen said:


> No dragon yet but I probably will for a grandson for Christmas. I try to keep printed toys for special occasions so they don’t think I produce whatever they want on command😆
> 
> I’m pretty sure these are naturally occurring colors for Axolotl.
> View attachment 3856705


i was doing the same thing with my nephew (but with dinosaurs). Then he got a bit demanding about it (he was like 3 at the time) so that came to a halt at the request of my sister.


----------



## RyanGi




----------



## HokieKen

These yunguns are pure rotten anyway so I make it a point to be sure they hear “No” from me as often as possible since my wife can’t pronounce that word around them😜


----------



## RyanGi

We don’t have kids, so it’s easier to spoil the neighbors and nephews and nieces and whatnot. Just run them off when they get to be too much!


----------



## HokieKen

So my big Stihl crapped the bed last year and was beyond me being able to fix in any cost effective manner. Instead of spending $1500+ on another one, I decided to get a “disposable”Chinesium one off Amazon.




__





Loading…






www.amazon.com





It was $160 for a 62cc saw with a 20” bar. I figured that’s cheaper than just rebuilding the top end on my 72cc Stihl (which I have done twice already) so if it’ll cut logs into blanks and occasionally ride my Alaskan mill to make boards for 2 years without requiring any expense, I could toss it and buy another and not even waste an afternoon troubleshooting when it does quit on me.

My holdup was the power mainly but I figured I may as well take a shot since I just can’t justify big bucks for a chainsaw since I really don’t use it that much and I don’t use it to make any side money. So I bought it for my birthday in August and it was better built than I expected. All the shell parts are plastic but the drive components aren’t and it fires up easily and runs well both at full throttle and at idle.

Today is the first time I’ve pushed it hard through anything and it ran like a champ! Honestly, it lacked nothing compared to my Stihl. The bar was solid and didn’t flex any more than a higher end saw. The chain brake and oiler both worked like they should and tbe chain stayed tight through processing 3 big logs. And two of those were big green Cherry rounds. I made rip cuts through the pith and even though the bar wasn’t long enough to go all the way across the diameter, even with it fully engaged it never cried uncle.

So, for now, if you need a beefy chainsaw and don’t want to invest big bucks, I’ll recommend it with the caveat that I’ve had limited time in the trenches with it so far. When I have a chance I’ll strap it to my Alaskan mill and make some flats😎


----------



## HokieKen

And I know there are pros and cons to having a riser block on a bandsaw. But I swear my little 14” saw with riser and a Woodturner’s blade from Highland is almost as good as having a sawmill😎

Naturally now that I got these blanks cut to size and squared up, I cracked open my can of Anchorseal to find that it’s damn near empty🙄


----------



## RyanGi

Their Amazon posting is hilarious!! I hope the folks assembling the saws are more capable than their marketing dept/editors 😂


----------



## HokieKen

Yeah Ryan, I get a kick out of a lot of the listings where it’s obvious that the text is generated by some translation software and nobody who speaks English proof reads it😂


----------



## pottz

well anything with powerful power and im sold🤣😎


----------



## duckmilk

Wow Kenny, your post #1296 is wide for some reason. About 1/5 of the right side is covered by the ad next to it. The other posts are normal width, I wonder why? Maybe I should just get an ad blocker or go premium.

The Axolotl is cool!


----------



## HokieKen

I went ahead and split this crotch. Cause I was too damn tired to wrestle it back on the pile in one piece.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

i agree with you Kenny i got rid of all my Stihl saws even the older ones i had bought a Dewalt battery and i am very happy with it 😁


----------



## Keebler1

My av guy at church is into dungeons and dragons. The figurines I showed yesterday were printed from an stl file he paid to have made. I broke the bow and arrow on both of those. I printed one scaled to 250% and it looks great.









Duck that is a trash can in the picture not slippers lol


----------



## HokieKen

An AV guy that plays D&D? Who’d a thunk it?! 😆


----------



## HokieKen

Getting back to the matter at hand, I got two blades cut out, ground to shape and ground flat on the faces today. Just need to grind in some bevels and I’ll be ready to harden😎


----------



## pottz

Keebler1 said:


> My av guy at church is into dungeons and dragons. The figurines I showed yesterday were printed from an stl file he paid to have made. I broke the bow and arrow on both of those. I printed one scaled to 250% and it looks great.
> View attachment 3856753
> 
> 
> Duck that is a trash can in the picture not slippers lol


thats damn cool keebs 😎


----------



## pottz

finished my two main projects so gonna add a little somethin extra.got that about half done today.


----------



## Keebler1

Kenny do you grind the bevels heat treat then sharpen? What do you use to cut out the blade shape? And how hard would that be to do on a 1x30 from HF?


----------



## RyanGi

And since we’re asking questions; How are you heat treating? Which steel?


----------



## pottz

Keebler1 said:


> Kenny do you grind the bevels heat treat then sharpen? What do you use to cut out the blade shape? And how hard would that be to do on a 1x30 from HF?





Keebler1 said:


> Kenny do you grind the bevels heat treat then sharpen? What do you use to cut out the blade shape? And how hard would that be to do on a 1x30 from HF?


ive got a cheap rikon 1x30 6"disc combo grinder and it does a pretty good job.my new jet didn't arrive until after i was pretty much done with swap projects.


----------



## HokieKen

I’m using 1095 steel and I draw the outline if my blade then cut it out on my portaband. I’ve also done it with and angle grinder if you don’t have a bandsaw that can cut steel. Hell, you can do it with a hacksaw if that’s all ya got.

After I rough it out with the bandsaw, I go to the belt grinder with a low grit belt and grind just short of the line. Then I work up to 120 or 220 grit belts and get right to my line. I have made knives with the 1x30 I sold Tony and it works just fine. Takes a little longer and you’ll go through more belts but it’ll work just fine.

Then I start back around 60 grit and grind the faces of the blade just to be sure they’re relatively flat. If I want to thin the steel out any, now’s the time for that too. If you buy precision ground bars of tool steel, it’ll be perfectly flat and you can skip that part. Often, it’s worth a few extra bucks to do so. I work up to 120 on the faces.

Now I paint both faces and the cutting edge with layout dye and I scribe a line along the center of the cutting edge so I know where the bevels need to meet. Then I grind in my bevels gently with a 120 grit belt. I switch sides every few strokes to be sure I’m getting even grinds. I keep an eye on tbe cutting edge and stop short of the line about .015” on each side. If you grind to a sharp edge, it’ll burn during heat treat. So leave some thickness.

After I’m happy with the bevels, I hand sand everything up to about 220. It’s easier to temove scratches now that it will be later. Then I clean the blades with acetone and make sure there’s no dye or oil on them. Now time to harden.

I use a jar of vegetable oil to quench. I start by firing up my coffee can forge and put a slug of steel in it. I let the steel set until its red. Then I put it in the oil. This is just to heat the oil up some to reduce chances of cracking or warping the blade.

Now I clamp the tang of the blade in a pair of vise grips and put it in the forge. I’ll flip it around and move it in and out periodically to keep even heat along the whole edge. Keep the blade vertical though or it will warp. I keep a large magnet next to the forge. Once the steel goes from red to bright orange and then to dull orange, it’s getting close. I pull it out and see if it’s still magnetic. When it’s not, it’s ready. I’ll put it back in for a few seconds and make sure the color is the same along the whole edge then out of the forge and straight into the oil. Again, keep it vertical and move it up and down in the oil, not side to side. Once the oil stops smoking and bubbling (only a few seconds) I pull it out and sight it for warps. If it has one, I clamp it in my vise until it cools. You can bend the blade a little for 15 seconds or so then it gets brittle and bending will break it.

Once the quench is done, let the blade cool at room temperature. Then check the edge with a file. If the file bites, so did your geat treatment! You gotta try again. If it skates without digging in though, you’re good to go.

Next temper the blade to make it less brittle. I just use a toaster oven and cycle it twice for an hour each time at 350-400 degrees depending on the blade. The higher the tenpering temperature, the less hard it will end up.

Now final grinding. I go back to 120 grit belt and clean up all the forge scale. Then work up to 220 grit on the bevels and 320 on the faces and spine. Then I finish with hand sanding everything to a finish I’m happy with.

Finally, your bevels are still short of meeting at a sharp edge so time to sharpen. I will usually handle the blade before I sharpen to avoid cutting myself. How I sharpen depends on the blade and what it’s for. For a heavy use blade, I’ll sharpen on the belt grinder on a slack section to give a convex edge. For carving or kitchen knives, I sharpen on a flat platen to get a flat edge. For knives that need a really fine edge, I finish sharpening on stones. For a convex edge I go all the way on the belt grinder working up to 600 grit or so.

Hope that helps!


----------



## pottz

damn kenny im exhausted but a great explanation on how to do a blade.one of the knives i did i cut it out with a small grinder.and i used my rikon like the one you sold.did a good job.


----------



## duckmilk

+1 Kenny


----------



## EricFai

Some good info Kenny, and a easy explanation to follow.


----------



## Lazyman

You still have


HokieKen said:


> Again, keep it vertical and move it up and down in the oil, not side to side.


I assume that you mean like you are slicing the oil with the blade fully submerged in the oil, not moving it up and down in (out and into) the oil. 

BTW, do you still have your battery chainsaw? The battery on my Ryobi 40v gave out already with only light use and I am contemplating buying another brand rather than spending $120 or more on a new battery. I probably had less than 10 hours on the battery.


----------



## pottz

Lazyman said:


> You still have
> 
> 
> I assume that you mean like you are slicing the oil with the blade fully submerged in the oil, not moving it up and down in (out and into) the oil.
> 
> BTW, do you still have your battery chainsaw? The battery on my Ryobi 40v gave out already with only light use and I am contemplating buying another brand rather than spending $120 or more on a new battery. I probably had less than 10 hours on the battery.


how old ? is it out of warranty ?


----------



## Lazyman

HokieKen said:


> I’m using 1095 steel and I draw the outline if my blade then cut it out on my portaband. I’ve also done it with and angle grinder if you don’t have a bandsaw that can cut steel. Hell, you can do it with a hacksaw if that’s all ya got.


I bought a 12x12" plate of 1095 a couple of years ago and it was PITA to cut. I think that it may have been at least partially hardened or had spots that were anyway. I finally had to buy a diamond metal cutoff wheel for my angle grinder. Hacksaw and regular disc for angle grinder would not cut some spots. It would cut just fine for a while then it would just destroy all hacksaw blades and just gind the cutoff discs down to nothing. Next time I need to cut a chunk off, I think I will try to anneal it first.


----------



## Lazyman

pottz said:


> how old ? is it out of warranty ?


I think it is 3 years old now. I think that the warranty was 2 years and right after that was up, I started noticing that I could only get about 15-20 minutes of cutting from a full charge and the battery would get really hot when using. When it was new I could get almost an hour. Now I just get an error code when I pop it into the charger. I may try one of the cheap knock-off replacement batteries that are about half the price of the Ryobi ones. I figure it could not be much worse than one that came with the saw. Either that or try another brand. I like the saw but the battery sucks.


----------



## pottz

Lazyman said:


> I think it is 3 years old now. I think that the warranty was 2 years and right after that was up, I started noticing that I could only get about 15-20 minutes of cutting from a full charge and the battery would get really hot when using. When it was new I could get almost an hour. Now I just get an error code when I pop it into the charger. I may try one of the cheap knock-off replacement batteries that are about half the price of the Ryobi ones. I figure it could not be much worse than one that came with the saw. Either that or try another brand. I like the saw but the battery sucks.


man that sucks.but i know batteries if not used will die.ive tried generic batteries and have not had good results.


----------



## HokieKen

Nathan, stab it up and down in the oil but keep it submerged the whole time.

I do have a 80V Greenworks chainsaw too. I use it for limbing trees and I used it a lot for felling small trees when I cleared our back yard. But it’s underpowered for ripping in big rounds and under heavy loading the battery only lasts about 15 minutes. I do like it, it just isn’t enough for processing turning stock and definitely undersized for my Alaskan mill. I liked it enough to buy a leaf blower and weed whacker from the same line and so far, I’m very happy with those too.


----------



## HokieKen

Nathan, you might google rebuilding your own battery. It’s not simple but it’s comparitively cheap if your comfortable with the process.


----------



## HokieKen

Lazyman said:


> I bought a 12x12" plate of 1095 a couple of years ago and it was PITA to cut. I think that it may have been at least partially hardened or had spots that were anyway. I finally had to buy a diamond metal cutoff wheel for my angle grinder. Hacksaw and regular disc for angle grinder would not cut some spots. It would cut just fine for a while then it would just destroy all hacksaw blades and just gind the cutoff discs down to nothing. Next time I need to cut a chunk off, I think I will try to anneal it first.


If it’s torch cut, it’ll harden the edges. And you can actually harden it with a grinder if the wheel is dull. Generally the edges are the only problem spots for me.


----------



## WoodenDreams

I received two kits today. Still waiting on another kit. Probably won't have time for them till week or two. Will be out of town most of next week. One of the kits I plan on modifying. Seen this, thought it would interesting and fun to do for this swap.


----------



## Lazyman

Pretty sure that it isn't torch cut. I actually started and got pretty far using just a hack saw and then a few inches in, it just stopped cutting. I though I just wore out the blade but a new one would not cut either. It was like there were pockets that were hardened? In fact it seemed to cut more easily near the edges. The regular cutoff disk worked better than the hacksaw but it was really slow going and the disk was wearing down fast. The diamond blade finally cut it but even that was tough going.


----------



## pottz

Lazyman said:


> Pretty sure that it isn't torch cut. I actually started and got pretty far using just a hack saw and then a few inches in, it just stopped cutting. I though I just wore out the blade but a new one would not cut either. It was like there were pockets that were hardened? In fact it seemed to cut more easily near the edges. The regular cutoff disk worked better than the hacksaw but it was really slow going and the disk was wearing down fast. The diamond blade finally cut it but even that was tough going.


time for NUCLEAR dude !!!! 🤣


----------



## RyanGi

Ken, can you post a couple pics of the coffee can forge? I’d need something small if I’m gonna be able to store it.


----------



## HokieKen

RyanGi said:


> Ken, can you post a couple pics of the coffee can forge? I’d need something small if I’m gonna be able to store it.











DIY Blacksmithing: Forge Your Own Steel at Home!


Metal is a great material to work with. It's rigid, tough, malleable and conductive, but sometimes the part we need doesn't exist in any store. In order to create custom pieces, you need to either melt the metal and cast it in a mold, or heat it until it's soft enough to shape with your hammer...




mad-science.wonderhowto.com


----------



## RyanGi

Thanks Ken. I think I’ve seen that post somewhere before. Does anyone have any experience with the poured-in-place plaster of Paris/Sand method for the coffee can forge? Seems like a pretty simple way to go (not that rolling wool into a can is hard…).

are you using a simple torch like in that post Ken? Or something more?


----------



## Keebler1

Knife supply place I just found.


----------



## HokieKen

RyanGi said:


> Thanks Ken. I think I’ve seen that post somewhere before. Does anyone have any experience with the poured-in-place plaster of Paris/Sand method for the coffee can forge? Seems like a pretty simple way to go (not that rolling wool into a can is hard…).
> 
> are you using a simple torch like in that post Ken? Or something more?


Mine is wool Ryan. I bought mine off ebay a few years ago but it isn’t on there anymore. And I just use a torch but if I were building one, I’d probably fix the nozzle on the forge. It can be a PITA to get the torch set just right to produce the best heat flow inside.


----------



## HokieKen

So yesterday I processed several turning blanks and found afterwards that I was almost out of Anchorseal but I did manage to stretch it to to coat all of the blanks. One of the blanks I cut up yesterday is destined to become a couple of Kuksas. So I had about 15 minutes to kill this morning and decided to go ahead and rough out the Kuksas from the blank on the bandsaw. I had to go out anyway so I was going to run to Woodcraft on my way and pick up some more Anchorseal to minimize any checking in the blanks before I get around to starting on them. Before I left I checked my e-mail and saw this:









Called and no answer today. The universe is conspiring against me to make sure my blanks crack 😡 So I stuck them in a garbage bag and tied it closed. Now I'll hope I didn't waste that blank...

If anyone cares, I have an idea for a hybrid method to make Kuksas that will use the lathe to form the bottom and the inside of the bowl. and then carving to shape the outside of the bowl and the handle. I may do a blog on the process if it works out. Or, I may try putting together a YouTube video for the first time. Do y'all still read the blogs on the new site? Just curious because I checked blog posts almost every day on the old site but for some reason, I don't look as often on this site even though they're easy to navigate to. And I hate the new blog format where the blog post just becomes the first post in a thread. All-in-all I've come around to the new UI but I really wish they could make the OP pinned at the top of every page in a thread like before. ESPECIALLY for blogs and projects.


----------



## HokieKen

Ryan, if I needed a forge, I think I'd buy this one rather than spending the time making one:








LSMIITTH Gas Propane Forge Furnace Burner Knife Gas Metal Melting Furnace | eBay


Propane Forge is efficient tool for blacksmiths, DIY, jewellers, farriers and Blade smiths with temperature resistance up to 2642°F(1450 °C). Adjustable High Pressure Gas Regulator is 5 ft (1.5m) long hose.



www.ebay.com





Intuitively I would think a round forge would be more efficient but most forges are rectangular so it obviously works just fine. And that one comes with the burner and supply line and all the fittings. In fact, writing this post I may have convinced myself to buy one myself😉


----------



## RyanGi

Thanks Ken, I’ll take a look at it. And yes, I still look at the blogs…or at least I try to…without certain alerts I tend to miss stuff…


----------



## RyanGi

So, I found another one on eBay with two burners. Same dimension, just a second burner for $105. for those in the know, with a forge that size, is a second burner necessary? Is it going to be better (Obviously it’ll get hotter faster, but is that a big deal or is there some other benefit im not seeing?)?


----------



## duckmilk

RyanGi said:


> So, I found another one on eBay with two burners. Same dimension, just a second burner for $105. for those in the know, with a forge that size, is a second burner necessary? Is it going to be better (Obviously it’ll get hotter faster, but is that a big deal or is there some other benefit im not seeing?)?


I don't know which one you were looking at. My forge has 2 burners which is good for long items since the hear is spread out better. However, mine only has 1 valve which means both burners are burning at the same time, often I wish I could only burner going. I did some looking around and if I was going this route, THIS is the one I would buy. Each burner has its own valve, the regulator has a readable gauge, it has doors and it comes with a couple of extras.


----------



## pottz

Keebler1 said:


> Knife supply place I just found.


yeah i bought some of the stuff for this swap from them.good company.


----------



## pottz

HokieKen said:


> So yesterday I processed several turning blanks and found afterwards that I was almost out of Anchorseal but I did manage to stretch it to to coat all of the blanks. One of the blanks I cut up yesterday is destined to become a couple of Kuksas. So I had about 15 minutes to kill this morning and decided to go ahead and rough out the Kuksas from the blank on the bandsaw. I had to go out anyway so I was going to run to Woodcraft on my way and pick up some more Anchorseal to minimize any checking in the blanks before I get around to starting on them. Before I left I checked my e-mail and saw this:
> View attachment 3856889
> 
> 
> Called and no answer today. The universe is conspiring against me to make sure my blanks crack 😡 So I stuck them in a garbage bag and tied it closed. Now I'll hope I didn't waste that blank...
> 
> If anyone cares, I have an idea for a hybrid method to make Kuksas that will use the lathe to form the bottom and the inside of the bowl. and then carving to shape the outside of the bowl and the handle. I may do a blog on the process if it works out. Or, I may try putting together a YouTube video for the first time. Do y'all still read the blogs on the new site? Just curious because I checked blog posts almost every day on the old site but for some reason, I don't look as often on this site even though they're easy to navigate to. And I hate the new blog format where the blog post just becomes the first post in a thread. All-in-all I've come around to the new UI but I really wish they could make the OP pinned at the top of every page in a thread like before. ESPECIALLY for blogs and projects.


yeah i still check em out,but i agree,it was much better before.


----------



## pottz

HokieKen said:


> Ryan, if I needed a forge, I think I'd buy this one rather than spending the time making one:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LSMIITTH Gas Propane Forge Furnace Burner Knife Gas Metal Melting Furnace | eBay
> 
> 
> Propane Forge is efficient tool for blacksmiths, DIY, jewellers, farriers and Blade smiths with temperature resistance up to 2642°F(1450 °C). Adjustable High Pressure Gas Regulator is 5 ft (1.5m) long hose.
> 
> 
> 
> www.ebay.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Intuitively I would think a round forge would be more efficient but most forges are rectangular so it obviously works just fine. And that one comes with the burner and supply line and all the fittings. In fact, writing this post I may have convinced myself to buy one myself😉


that looks pretty good.my son tried making one using a propane torch,didn't work very so he scrapped it.


----------



## HokieKen

RyanGi said:


> So, I found another one on eBay with two burners. Same dimension, just a second burner for $105. for those in the know, with a forge that size, is a second burner necessary? Is it going to be better (Obviously it’ll get hotter faster, but is that a big deal or is there some other benefit im not seeing?)?


Depends on what you want to do Ryan. For a forge that size, I think one burner is sufficient. If it was a longer forge, a second would probably be needed for even heating. Or, if you wanted to use it for actually forging stuff, you may want the second burner to heat the steel faster. But if you're like me and you only use it for heat treating you'll be fine with a single burner. 



duckmilk said:


> I don't know which one you were looking at. My forge has 2 burners which is good for long items since the hear is spread out better. However, mine only has 1 valve which means both burners are burning at the same time, often I wish I could only burner going. I did some looking around and if I was going this route, THIS is the one I would buy. Each burner has its own valve, the regulator has a readable gauge, it has doors and it comes with a couple of extras.


Could you just stick a cutout cock on the inlet to one of the valves Duck?


----------



## Keebler1

HokieKen said:


> Could you just stick a cock on the inlet to one


Kenny wants to play with a cock on his forge valves lol


----------



## Lazyman

HokieKen said:


> pick up some more Anchorseal


'
Rockler's Green wood end sealer is exactly the same thing as Anchorseal 2 and is just over half the price of the A2. If you look up the SDS for the Rockler branded stuff, it pulls up the A2 SDS and in my experience it IS exactly the same stuff but cheaper. I actually prefer the jug it comes in over the paint can the A2 comes in because I can pour it into a smaller container so that I do not have to lug the gallon can around with me. A lot of turning clubs buy Anchorseal in 50 gallon barrels and sell to members at cost. 

BTW, I have found that the easiest way to look for new blogs, which are now called journals and stored in the Showcase, is simply to browse Showcase without any filters. It will show you projects, blogs and new workshop postings in single list. There may be a few people still creating them in the Blogs forum or at least adding to the converted ones there but going forward the Journals will probably be a better place to put them. I have not tried it yet but I think that you can click follow on the Blogs forum and get notified when new things are posted there. You may have to visit the News Feed tab (under New) to see them but I am not certain about that since I have not tried to do that.


----------



## HokieKen

I would gladly use the Rockler product but I don't have a Rockler brick and mortar nearby so I'd have to pay shipping. I can drop by WC and pick up the Anchorseal and save shipping. It may still be cheaper to order from Rockler but they are bockordered until the end of the month and I need some ASAP...


----------



## duckmilk

HokieKen said:


> Could you just stick a cutout cock on the inlet to one of the valves Duck?


Mine is an old homemade forge Kenny, the gas feeds to the burners are steel tubing. If I had a welder (and was good at it ) I could re-make it. While I was looking at the offerings on the bay, I did find some 2 burner stuff that might work for just about $55. Take off the old burners and install the new stuff.
My nephew is trying to get me to buy a new forge though. Only about $860 for the dual valve version with a front door and 2 side openings. Not ready to pull that trigger yet.


----------



## RyanGi

I got in a pretty deep rabbet hole over the past two hours or so on this. The internets and YouTube all have their own ideas, but there does seem to be common thread (especially as it applies to hobby/light use folks who aren’t looking to work on much other than knife-sized projects). Mr Volcano and Simond Store both have one and two burner units, both are (evidently) not Chinese, and both rate quite highly when used as expected. There are certainly others that score high, but cost a fair bit more. Anyway, that’s what I found and watched. Maybe they’re right, maybe not…


----------



## Lazyman

HokieKen said:


> I would gladly use the Rockler product but I don't have a Rockler brick and mortar nearby so I'd have to pay shipping. I can drop by WC and pick up the Anchorseal and save shipping. It may still be cheaper to order from Rockler but they are bockordered until the end of the month and I need some ASAP...


For future reference, Rockler often has free shipping on $49+ orders (used to be $35). I think you just have to register your email but it might not matter if you have the promo code. . 
Here is the current code:


----------



## Lazyman

BTW, in a pinch, Just apply some wood glue to the ends of the blank, next to Anchorseal, it is the next best thing that I have found.


----------



## pottz

Lazyman said:


> BTW, in a pinch, Just apply some wood glue to the ends of the blank, next to Anchorseal, it is the next best thing that I have found.


sure, all your trying to do is seal the end grain ! good tip nathan  😎


----------



## HokieKen

Decided to do the dragon Keebler.


----------



## pottz

well i got my last "extra" for the swap 90% done today so im feelin groovey kids ! i hope too blow my recipients mind when he opens the box.but thats what i always want from anything i do ! if i cant do my best.........id rather not do anything !


----------



## DavePolaschek

HokieKen said:


> Do y'all still read the blogs on the new site? Just curious because I checked blog posts almost every day on the old site but for some reason, I don't look as often on this site even though they're easy to navigate to. And I hate the new blog format where the blog post just becomes the first post in a thread. All-in-all I've come around to the new UI but I really wish they could make the OP pinned at the top of every page in a thread like before. ESPECIALLY for blogs and projects.


I try to follow blogs under the new form, but it doesn’t work for me. I haven’t written any blog since they mangled all my existing ones in the “conversion.” Still trying to figure out what I’m going to do on that front…

I’ve told myself I have to stick around at least until this swap is wrapped up. Some days it’s tougher than others, but I haven’t been reading blogs or reviews, and I’m missing about half the projects my buddies post. 



Lazyman said:


> BTW, in a pinch, Just apply some wood glue to the ends of the blank, next to Anchorseal, it is the next best thing that I have found.


I've been using leftover latex paint (we had a gallon of some color the folks we bought our house from liked, which has no other use than painting log ends) with no obvious ill effects.

In other news, got a full morning in the shop today. Almost sealed up the swap package to ship it off, but remembered that my neighbor wants to see what I’m sending before it goes, so I’ll wait until after he gets a chance to inspect the goodies. I’ve got a little box I made out of scraps that needs finishing tomorrow, and a carving knife I made for myself to try out an idea, and once those are wrapped up, the laundry hamper gets assembled and I get started on the fireplace screen, which I’m still hoping to get done before Christmas.


----------



## pottz

DavePolaschek said:


> I try to follow blogs under the new form, but it doesn’t work for me. I haven’t written any blog since they mangled all my existing ones in the “conversion.” Still trying to figure out what I’m going to do on that front…
> 
> I’ve told myself I have to stick around at least until this swap is wrapped up. Some days it’s tougher than others, but I haven’t been reading blogs or reviews, and I’m missing about half the projects my buddies post.
> 
> 
> 
> I've been using leftover latex paint (we had a gallon of some color the folks we bought our house from liked, which has no other use than painting log ends) with no obvious ill effects.
> 
> In other news, got a full morning in the shop today. Almost sealed up the swap package to ship it off, but remembered that my neighbor wants to see what I’m sending before it goes, so I’ll wait until after he gets a chance to inspect the goodies. I’ve got a little box I made out of scraps that needs finishing tomorrow, and a carving knife I made for myself to try out an idea, and once those are wrapped up, the laundry hamper gets assembled and I get started on the fireplace screen, which I’m still hoping to get done before Christmas.


dammit dave dont even think about leaving us buddy.i know where you live,dont make me drive all the way through hell and kick your ass.......... 🤣 you know i luv ya man,as do many here.we cant have a lumber jocks without a polaschek !!!!! hey....we will make this work ......ok ? hey i cant deal with kenny alone man !!!!!🤣🤣🤣🤣


----------



## recycle1943

I just looked and Amazon has anchorseal for $28 a quart and $48 a gallon


----------



## HokieKen

It’s $42 at Woodcraft and I can pick it up this afternoon Dick 😁


----------



## HokieKen

Dave’s not going anywhere pottz. Other than that exceptionally cheritable woman that agrees to cohabitate with him, we’re the only ones that will tolerate him😆


----------



## HokieKen

Lazyman said:


> For future reference, Rockler often has free shipping on $49+ orders (used to be $35). I think you just have to register your email but it might not matter if you have the promo code. .
> Here is the current code:
> View attachment 3856922


Yeah I get their e-mails and realized that I could buy 2 gallons of theirs and get free shipping and it would still only be about $10 more than one gallon of Anchorseal  But unfortunately it's back-ordered until 10/28  and I have two really nice crotch pieces of Cherry that I want to get sealed up ASAP. So I think I'll go with a quart of the Anchorseal this time then when that's gone, I'll get some from Rockler.


----------



## recycle1943

HokieKen said:


> It’s $42 at Woodcraft and I can pick it up this afternoon Dick 😁


Unfortunately because I live in the "country" my nearest Woodcraft store is 50 miles away and the nearest Rockler is 80 miles away. Even if gas were down to an affordable price, I'm too lazy to drive to them when I have a brand new computer that will link me to them in just a blink of an eye.
Seriously tho, I've found that even when Amazon might be priced a little higher than some others it's so much easier to order on line and go back out to the shop and wallow in my saw dust.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

no Dave you cannot leave i have not seen a project since it changed i guess i must ask cricket where to find them 🥺 🥺


----------



## Lazyman

I do not know if the is the same sort of waxy emulsion but Klingspor apparently has a green wood sealer too and it is only $21/gallon. The instructions definitely sound like it is more toxic than the the instructions on the Anchorseal 2 so maybe it is a formula similar to the original Anchorseal?









Green Wood Sealer (G)


Klingspor's Woodworking Shop is full line distributor of woodworking tools and supplies from respected companies like Klingspor Abrasives.




www.woodworkingshop.com





There is also Ipe Seal which looks similar but is expensive; however, Home Depot shows that they can ship it to my nearby store or home for free by the 10/22? 









DeckWise Ipe Seal 1 qt. Clear Waterproofing End Grain Seal for Hardwood IPE-SEAL-1-QT - The Home Depot


Sealing wood end grain during a siding, deck or trim installation can easily be done and does little to slow down the job. Ipe Seal End Grain Seal for hardwoods - and wood in general - is a non-toxic waterproofing wax emulsion sealant for fresh cut lumber ends to stop future cracks and...



www.homedepot.com


----------



## Lazyman

HokieKen said:


> Yeah I get their e-mails and realized that I could buy 2 gallons of theirs and get free shipping and it would still only be about $10 more than one gallon of Anchorseal  But unfortunately it's back-ordered until 10/28  and I have two really nice crotch pieces of Cherry that I want to get sealed up ASAP. So I think I'll go with a quart of the Anchorseal this time then when that's gone, I'll get some from Rockler.


I would make sure that the pith is cut out immediately. That will make a huge difference and slow down the cracking until you can get some sealant. When prepping logs that I am not going to turn right away, I always try to cut out the middle inch or two, depending upon how large the diameter is. Basically I cut a 1 or 2 inch slab from the middle of the log. The side benefit is that you can get 2 really nice quarter sawn pieces from that that would otherwise just be turned away.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

keeb give me a S and i would like to apologize again to my victim


----------



## pottz

GR8HUNTER said:


> keeb give me a S and i would like to apologize again to my victim


you already shipped !!!  😎


----------



## RyanGi

First foray into kydex today. Never have I ever worked with it. It was thicker than I expected, which made the small sample piece I was trying to form a little challenging. I had to re-heat and start over twice before I got something that passes as useable. Not wanting to venture onto new ground at the possible expense of a swap project piece, I made a little sheath for my marking knife that I keep in my apron pocket. I used to cram a little piece of leather down into the apron pouch to keep it from cutting through the bottom, which only occasionally worked, so I figured this could be more ideal.

I’d say, all in all, for a first attempt, it’s got to be counted as a success. Maybe not something I’d be willing to give to someone, but it’s fully functional. It has good retention, protects the cutting edges (and the apron), and has a built in clip to keep it in the apron pouch (which really isn’t needed, but it doubles as a push-off to remove the marking knife from the sheath). And I couldn’t resist adding a little makers mark with the laser engraver. I’m burning everything that’s not tied down around here with that thing!!










































And since this tung oil stuff takes its sweet time drying, and I’ve been quacking on about the laser engraver, I spent some shop time building a little storage box to protect it a bit. Just mitered ply and a bunch of splines for looks, as I doubt mitered ply glue joints need too much added strength for this lightweight application. I had some hardware lying about so I threw that on as well. I forgot how much fun it is building boxes!


----------



## pottz

im still considering that laser,i think it would suit my needs quite well. gotta hold off for awhile though,just spent money on the new sander 😎


----------



## therealSteveN

HokieKen said:


> I would gladly use the Rockler product but I don't have a Rockler brick and mortar nearby so I'd have to pay shipping. I can drop by WC and pick up the Anchorseal and save shipping. It may still be cheaper to order from Rockler but they are bockordered until the end of the month and I need some ASAP...


If you go to Rockler DOT COM and give them an email address, they will offer you free S&H on anything over 39 bux. I have a Cinci store, and hardly ever go, gas costs more than the time to go online. 

OR, had I scrolled down. I would have seen the coupon you would have gotten, and evidently Nathan did, but if you use the same email to buy through as your sign up email, it's already done for you, and it's all the time.


----------



## Keebler1

Nice job Ryan. I carry my glock in a kydex holster. Was walking through lowes for some hardware and i noticed my holster sitting funny. Tried readjusting it and it fell into my hand. Luckily I was able to put it into my pocket well enough it stayed. Sad thing is the holster was barely 1.5 years old


----------



## BigShooter

Probably a silly question but can we ship our items as soon as we finish them or do we wait?


----------



## HokieKen

My carry holster broke on me the other day Keebler. It’s a soft shell but the plastic clip caught on my belt and snapped. I can’t complain too much, it’s several years old.

Ryan, that looks pretty good for a first go. Getting a clip molded in is no small feat. I’ve never been happy with my attempts at them so I just rivet a clip onto mine. I don’t know how you were heating it but you can heat localized areas with a heat gun to tweak the fit instead of having to go back to square one.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

BigShooter said:


> Probably a silly question but can we ship our items as soon as we finish them or do we wait?


ship if your done not a problem mines in flight


----------



## EricFai

I need to get my butt in gear, 2 or 3 of you are ready to ship!


----------



## HokieKen

Don’t worry Eric, I have a long row to hoe.


----------



## pottz

ive just got a couple coats of finish to apply so ill probably ship next week,


----------



## Keebler1

Ive got sanding and finish to go so yea Ill probably put that off till last minute. Yall know i hate sanding and putting finish on


----------



## Keebler1

Just make sure you let me know by email when youve shipped and received


----------



## EricFai

Yep.


----------



## RyanGi

Thanks fellas. The clip was actually the easiest part! I just rolled a tab that I left long over a 1/4” dowel and tucked it against the body of the sheath before pressing it. I don’t know how durable it would be if the clip was being flexed all the time, but for holding the sheath in place so it doesn’t slip out it works great!

My bigger issue was the relatively small size of the piece I was working with. Trying to ‘taco’ a piece with a wing only about 1/2” wide (long and narrow) just didn’t want to play nice. Too much thickness for the limited width, it just wanted to naturally fold back to flat. I think for something this small .060 would be a better choice, I was using .080. I changed the design a little and it worked out. Also, to be fair, I have no idea what I’m doing with this (kydex or knives), so I could be missing something simple. But I did watch some videos, and stayed at a Holiday Inn, so that’s probably good enough…


----------



## recycle1943

RyanGi said:


> Also, to be fair, I have no idea what I’m doing with this (kydex or knives), so I could be missing something simple. But I did watch some videos, and *stayed at a Holiday Inn*, so that’s probably good enough…


I too have stayed at the same Holiday Inn so that makes both of us experts. I'm going to try some neurosurgery next week - - -


----------



## Keebler1

recycle1943 said:


> stayed at the same Holiday Inn


I knew I was getting screwed when minuteman put me up in a marriot instead of a holiday inn


----------



## recycle1943

Keebler1 said:


> I knew I was getting screwed when minuteman put me up in a marriot instead of a holiday inn


The Marriot is OK - you're just restricted to general practice. Maybe next trip you can move up

btw - this is my weekly check in and except for some finish work I'm ready to pack things up and ship


----------



## GR8HUNTER

don't be too hard on yourselves half you guys are still working every1 will ship on time I'm not worried  😎


----------



## RyanGi

It does my heart good to know that you all got that Holiday Inn reference. I am truly among my people. I had to explain it to a group of guys at work the other month when I made a similar comment. I got halfway through and just said ‘nevermind…’.


----------



## HokieKen

Nice work on the laser box Ryan. I've had mine for years and it's still in the styrofoam box they shipped it to me in.


----------



## HokieKen

RyanGi said:


> Thanks fellas. The clip was actually the easiest part! I just rolled a tab that I left long over a 1/4” dowel and tucked it against the body of the sheath before pressing it. I don’t know how durable it would be if the clip was being flexed all the time, but for holding the sheath in place so it doesn’t slip out it works great!
> 
> *My bigger issue was the relatively small size of the piece I was working with. Trying to ‘taco’ a piece with a wing only about 1/2” wide (long and narrow) just didn’t want to play nice. Too much thickness for the limited width, it just wanted to naturally fold back to flat. I think for something this small .060 would be a better choice, I was using .080.* I changed the design a little and it worked out. Also, to be fair, I have no idea what I’m doing with this (kydex or knives), so I could be missing something simple. But I did watch some videos, and stayed at a Holiday Inn, so that’s probably good enough…


Thinner is better for sure. I think .080 is too thick for most stuff. .06" is sturdy enough for most anything in my experience. For something small like that marking knife, I'd have probably went with .03". If you do have thicker though and want to bend it tighter, you can score the bend line before you heat it. Or even better, cut a v-groove along the bend line.


----------



## RyanGi

Thanks Ken. I just ordered some .06 sheets to mess with. We’ll see how that goes. I do like the thickness for the marking knife for the simple fact it fits nice and snug in the apron and feels beefy enough I won’t snap it. Of course. What do I know? Before yesterday I’d never messed with kydex at all! At least it’s a somewhat inexpensive product to learn with.


----------



## Keebler1

What are you using to heat the kydex to bend it?


----------



## RyanGi

Right now, I’m using a full sized Craigslist oven that I’ve got in the shop for powder coating. I was going to go out hunting for a used taster oven today maybe. I’ve got a heat gun that I figure might come in handy for tweaking too.

I’m open to all suggestions, temperature profiles, whatever.


----------



## HokieKen

I just use a toaster over Ryan and I think I usually set it around 200F for Kydex.


----------



## RyanGi

Not questioning what you do Ken, since I’ve got no experience to put against it, but don’t they usually call for like 320-360° for heating kydex? Again, I’ve got no idea so I’m asking. 200° gets it done?


----------



## HokieKen

I could be wrong about the temperature Ryan. I don't think I turn it up that high but I could be wrong. I try to heat it to the lowest temperature possible because if you get it too hot, it can cause some discoloration and glazing on the show face.


----------



## RyanGi

Alright, so the 250° setting on this little toaster is not quite warm enough. The 300° setting is probably a bit hot, but as long as I pay attention everything works out ok. There isn’t a 275° setting.

It’s fast too! Better than using my full size oven. I’m learning my way though the timing and finding I need to make some ad hoc jigs to get what I want, but we’re getting there! I can see using this for a lot of things actually. Sheaths for all kinds of tools potentially. Since we live in a place not none for condoning CCW, that one might be off the table, but I still might try my hand a making a holster or two for a couple of my handguns. What a neat process to have access to!


----------



## DavePolaschek

And shipped. Lord help you, Mr. Recipient.


----------



## HokieKen

Did you rig up some sort of press Ryan? If not, I highly recommend doing so. I totally agree, it’s a really nice thing to have in your bag of tricks. It has a pretty low startup cost and not too much of a learning curve too😎


----------



## RyanGi

Yup, thermal foam and some plates for a press. Works very well. It’s a different way to look at geometry if you’re trying to do everything in one single operation. I can definitely see building some more permanent jigs for things like brackets and whatnot. Pretty cool!


----------



## recycle1943

DavePolaschek said:


> And shipped. Lord help you, Mr. Recipient.


Dave, I didn't ship yet but I've had the same thoughts. I'm only 2 or 3 days of moderate temperature away from shipping.


----------



## KelleyCrafts

Not sure when ship date is, I would have to go all the way back but I can heat treat for free in a heat treat oven so it’s very controlled. You just have to pay shipping back and forth.

just throwing that out there.


----------



## Keebler1

It isnt hard to go all the way back. On phone at least. Click the arrow with the line next to it and you go back to the first page. Click just the arrow next to the page number and you only go back a page. Then at the top click jump to latest to come back to last post


----------



## KelleyCrafts

I know Keebs. I should have said I’m to lazy to go back and scan through the OP. I didn’t want to make myself look all fat and lazy but you called me out on it.


----------



## DavePolaschek

I may have some plane blades for you to heat treat in November, Dave. Or I could set up my forge so I could do it myself…


----------



## KelleyCrafts

Up to you Dave. I don’t discriminate, unless it’s Kenny. He can do his own stuff.


----------



## recycle1943

I don't remember any teaser pics yet for this swap - everybody's making a forge so I'm gonna do it


----------



## recycle1943

and here's another one - the shipping container


----------



## pottz

hey anyone seen yeti lately ? i know he wasn't crazy about the new format,hope he didn't abandon us!


----------



## EricFai

No word here. Another one is Ron987, haven't seen much posted from him either.


----------



## pottz

EricFai said:


> No word here. Another one is Ron987, haven't seen much posted from him either.


right,he used to post daily ?


----------



## ToddJB

Got a new (used) toaster oven for tempering. Waiting for my oven thermometer to show up to test the ovens settings accuracy and then heat treating can begin.


----------



## recycle1943

I shot a moose this afternoon


----------



## duckmilk

So, you're putting an antler handle on your knife?


----------



## DavePolaschek

recycle1943 said:


> I shot a moose this afternoon


Dang. I clicked on the “like” to see if there was a moose emoji, and there wasn’t. Darn.


----------



## recycle1943

duckmilk said:


> So, you're putting an antler handle on your knife?


Naw, knife(s) are done and ready to ship, I was just checking the water temperature



DavePolaschek said:


> Dang. I clicked on the “like” to see if there was a moose emoji, and there wasn’t. Darn.


here ya go Dave, pretty sure there's a moose in the trees. I can't imagine why else I would have taken that picture while we were in Alaska lol


----------



## recycle1943

pottz said:


> hey anyone seen yeti lately ? i know he wasn't crazy about the new format,hope he didn't abandon us!


There's a LOT of guys gone missing since the upgrade. I hope it's just because they haven't figured the new layout yet.


----------



## EarlS

Dick - moose pics? When I was a kid Dad shot a moose - best red meat I've ever eaten.

Does sharpening knives, chisels and such on the new (to me) Tormek T-7 count as playing along at home?

I'm still trying to get used to the new site. The one area that seems to have been lost along the way is Reviews. I don't know if no one has done a review since the switch or if I just don't know where to find the new reviews. 

I have a 3-day weekend and no house chores so it will all be shop time. Now that the shop re-arrangement is finished I can make some sawdust. On the agenda - finish the small parts sled, make a drill press table, maybe a box for the Tormek parts and another one for the Jess-Em router parts.


----------



## HokieKen

Earl's always asking for dick pics. I've never had moose meat but by all accounts I need some!

Wish I had a 3 day weekend and/or shop time. Instead I get to hit the road early tomorrow for Charleston SC to go to a wedding, spend the night, get up and drive back Sunday morning. So 14 hours on the road and 4 or 5 at a wedding. Ugh. There better be an open bar and the food better be good...

That means I'll have two weekends before the ship date to finish up my swap project though so I should be fine. I had an idea for a bonus item and I bought the materials for it but it's looking like I may not get that far. So my recipient may be getting a bonus item that's "some assembly required"


----------



## HokieKen

ToddJB said:


> Got a new (used) toaster oven for tempering. Waiting for my oven thermometer to show up to test the ovens settings accuracy and then heat treating can begin.


A good point Todd. I know some others were considering tempering their own blades. But toaster ovens (and most ovens) for that matter have temperature gauges that are a SWAG at best. I use a meat probe I bought for my smoker to monitor the temperature in my toaster oven when I use it for tempering. I shoot for a temperature of ~425 for most knives and I generally have to set the temperature dial to about 500 to hit it. Mine also swings about +/-15 degrees. Just something to be aware of if you temper a blade and don't get the color you expect or do a hardness test and it's harder than you expected.

Another FYI, if you clean up your blade before tempering, you can pretty easily tell whether it's properly tempered by the color of the steel afterwards. It should be a straw color on the surface. If it's a light yellow, it's probably still too hard for a knife. If it's brown, you probably tempered at too high a temperature and it may be too soft to take a good edge. The good news is that as long as your temperature was between 375 and 500F you'll probably be fine.


----------



## recycle1943

EarlS said:


> Dick - moose pics? When I was a kid Dad shot a moose - best red meat I've ever eaten.
> 
> I'm still trying to get used to the new site. The one area that seems to have been lost along the way is Reviews. I don't know if no one has done a *review* since the switch or if I just don't know where to find the new reviews.


Earl - from this window LumberJocks Woodworking Forum go to the top right side of the banner REVIEWS you can read and post from there


----------



## DavePolaschek

HokieKen said:


> I've never had moose meat but by all accounts I need some!


Tastes a lot like deer or elk, but the steaks are bigger.

Not a teaser, since I’ve already shipped (and it’s out for delivery today), but this is a carving knife I’ve been working on somewhat in parallel, and started working on the sheath today.










Some crabapple from my yard in Minnesota sandwiching red Micarta, sandwiching ash.

Trying to decide what color sheath it’s going to get. I might have to order some red Fiebing’s.


----------



## ToddJB

HokieKen said:


> A good point Todd. I know some others were considering tempering their own blades. But toaster ovens (and most ovens) for that matter have temperature gauges that are a SWAG at best. I use a meat probe I bought for my smoker to monitor the temperature in my toaster oven when I use it for tempering. I shoot for a temperature of ~425 for most knives and I generally have to set the temperature dial to about 500 to hit it. Mine also swings about +/-15 degrees. Just something to be aware of if you temper a blade and don't get the color you expect or do a hardness test and it's harder than you expected.
> 
> Another FYI, if you clean up your blade before tempering, you can pretty easily tell whether it's properly tempered by the color of the steel afterwards. It should be a straw color on the surface. If it's a light yellow, it's probably still too hard for a knife. If it's brown, you probably tempered at too high a temperature and it may be too soft to take a good edge. The good news is that as long as your temperature was between 375 and 500F you'll probably be fine.


Glad I tested it. My old stove was the same as you described, Kenny, you set it to 400 and you get 350. This one I set to 400 and got 450.


----------



## jeffswildwood

I been one of the ones missing. I still have trouble with the new format. Tricky for me to use and keep up with things. I may get used to it eventually. Still haven't attempted to post a project or picture.


----------



## duckmilk

You'll get used to it Jeff, I'm slowly getting there. Every now and then I poke around to see what I can find. But, what I use this site for is just to follow along with the threads I'm involved with, seldom something else.

I bought a new toaster oven about 1 1/2 years ago to use for tempering steel, tested it with an oven thermometer and it was about 20* cooler than the setting, but the setting only goes to 450*.


----------



## RyanGi

You’ll figure it out Jeff. It’s a bit of a pain, but you can do it!


----------



## EarlS

recycle1943 said:


> Earl - from this window LumberJocks Woodworking Forum go to the top right side of the banner REVIEWS you can read and post from there


So how do you tell if the review is new or not? All I see are categories f reviews.


----------



## RyanGi

To the left of the category is a circle with a square inside. Like a ‘thought bubble’. If it’s highlighted, there’s something new (or something’s that’s been replied to?) in that catergory. Inside the category, the title should be highlighted based on that same criteria…I think…


----------



## RyanGi

If you don’t want to wade through all of them (since I think they all show up as ‘new’ the first time you open up the Reviews section in the new system) within each category, at the top, is a ‘Mark All Read’ button. At least that will let you start out from scratch, going forward, in that category.


----------



## pottz

EarlS said:


> So how do you tell if the review is new or not? All I see are categories f reviews.


hell if i know earl.it used to be easy. click on reviews and the new reviews came up.now we get a list of of catagories ! so how the hell do we know what was just posted ? 🤬


----------



## jeffswildwood

I hope so. I still really miss the ease of the old format.


----------



## Lazyman

EarlS said:


> So how do you tell if the review is new or not? All I see are categories f reviews.


I think that is one of the problems that is causing frustration, Earl. The way they organized the Reviews turns out to be dumb. It makes sense to categorize them for archiving purposes but not when it comes to seeing new ones as they are posted. You could try following the forum but they didn't make it so you can follow the major category of reviews so you would have to follow each category you might be interested in. The other problem is that I do not think that there is a way to see just when someone creates a new review. I think that anything you try will tell you anytime someone posts another comment to a review too. What it boils down to is that they need two types of new activity tracking in filters and advanced search: one for new activity on existing or followed threads and another for a new topic you haven't visited yet. New reviews will show up on the New tab, depending upon your filter settings, but they will be mixed in with all of the other new comments posted to existing threads. The News Feed may also show you when someone creates a new topic in a followed forum, but since there is not a way to filter the News Feed, they will be mixed in with all of the other activity from your followed buddies and since we are chatty group, that makes the News feed unusable, unless you want to try to scroll through dozens of pages of our activity to find them. 

Screed terminated.


----------



## recycle1943

Not too sure but I think that in the categories the latest post is at the top of the list


----------



## Lazyman

That is what I initially thought too, Dick, but I think that it they are sorted with any with the latest activity of any kind at the top. Here are the latest blogs for example. Original post date is on the left and latest comment date is on the right.


----------



## recycle1943

I guess I fall into the "oh well " area 'cause so much of the site I never use nor read except on a slow day and need to kill some time.


----------



## DavePolaschek

DavePolaschek said:


> And shipped. Lord help you, Mr. Recipient.


Well, according to the United States Postal Service, someone has had a package delivered.


----------



## Keebler1

Ok I am gonna have to go back a ways and read up. I havent been getting notifications. 3 pieces done and finish on the last 3. DaveP at some point this week you will have a package headed your way.


----------



## pottz

Keebler1 said:


> Ok I am gonna have to go back a ways and read up. I havent been getting notifications. 3 pieces done and finish on the last 3. DaveP at some point this week you will have a package headed your way.


hey dont be a spoiler !!!! 😁


----------



## Keebler1

pottz said:


> hey dont be a spoiler !!!! 😁


Not being a spoiler. I sent Dave a couple pen blanks I cast the cholla he sent me in. Not part of the swap......I posted the pic of the pen I made with one of the cholla casts earlier but here it is again just for you Pottz


----------



## pottz

Keebler1 said:


> Not being a spoiler. I sent Dave a couple pen blanks I cast the cholla he sent me in. Not part of the swap......I posted the pic of the pen I made with one of the cholla casts earlier but here it is again just for you Pottz
> View attachment 3857594


thanks keebs because i missed that gorgeous pen you created. damn i need to get some cholla 😎


----------



## pottz

well im all done with my swap projects,letter written,just gotta take some pic's and i hopefully will have it on the way monday-tuesday.


----------



## DavePolaschek

Keebler1 said:


> DaveP at some point this week you will have a package headed your way.


Cool. Thanks, Keebs!



pottz said:


> damn i need to get some cholla 😎


It so happens I know a guy… unless you want it all resined up first, and then I know another guy.

I could shoot you a small flat rate it you want it raw, Pottz. If you’re looking for cooked, you’ll need to talk to Keebs.

Edited to add: did some leatherwork today. Waiting on red dye for this. Had a little wander on the stitching, but not too bad, especially since this one’s for me.


----------



## Keebler1

I never stabilized what you sent me Dave. Used liquid diamonds in case there was any moisture it doesnt react like alumilite does to moisture. Pottz what colors you thinking you want?


----------



## pottz

DavePolaschek said:


> Cool. Thanks, Keebs!
> 
> 
> 
> It so happens I know a guy… unless you want it all resined up first, and then I know another guy.
> 
> I could shoot you a small flat rate it you want it raw, Pottz. If you’re looking for cooked, you’ll need to talk to Keebs.
> 
> Edited to add: did some leatherwork today. Waiting on red dye for this. Had a little wander on the stitching, but not too bad, especially since this one’s for me.
> 
> View attachment 3857615


my friend your alwayd so generous with everything you have.i dont wanna impose again so ill wait for the right time.thank you so much. 😎


----------



## pottz

Keebler1 said:


> I never stabilized what you sent me Dave. Used liquid diamonds in case there was any moisture it doesnt react like alumilite does to moisture. Pottz what colors you thinking you want?


oh man you guys are too damn good to me.i just told dave,hey dont put yourself out i can wait.i do like blues and greens.but hey dont go out of your way,please man. ive gotta get a pressure pot so i can do this ******************** myself ! as ive said many times,the best people ive ever known are lumber jocks,and i mean that from the heart boys !!!!😎


----------



## GR8HUNTER

if that's how you stich a sheath i messed up on mine 🥺 🥺


----------



## Keebler1

Pottz look into stones resin or liquid diamonds. Both can be used without a pressure pot but a pressure pot would be better. Ill make up a couple blocks next weekend.


----------



## pottz

Keebler1 said:


> Pottz look into stones resin or liquid diamonds. Both can be used without a pressure pot but a pressure pot would be better. Ill make up a couple blocks next weekend.


damn,your the best😍well i gotta say dave is right there with you.he's takin pretty good care of me too. oh hell your all great !!!!! God bless you guys.keebs,dave,kenny,nathan and many more!!!!!thank you all for allowing me too share this incredible passion we call woodworking !!!😍😍😍😍😍😍


----------



## Keebler1

Now isnt that ironic the one who is always saying something about my plastic pen blanks is excited to get some lol


----------



## pottz

Keebler1 said:


> Now isnt that ironic the one who is always saying something about my plastic pen blanks is excited to get some lol


hey dont spoil a special moment (tears running down the cheeks)


----------



## Keebler1

I knew I would turn you eventually


----------



## pottz

Keebler1 said:


> I knew I would turn you eventually


not only do you stick the knife,but ya gotta turn it !!!!!!


----------



## DavePolaschek

GR8HUNTER said:


> if that's how you stich a sheath i messed up on mine 🥺 🥺


That’s the way I did this one, Tony. More than one way to skin a cat.


----------



## DavePolaschek

Keebler1 said:


> I never stabilized what you sent me Dave. Used liquid diamonds in case there was any moisture it doesnt react like alumilite does to moisture. Pottz what colors you thinking you want?


Most cholla doesn’t need any stabilizing. I think I remember having a few in the batch I sent you that were a little spongy, though. If you’re putting it in resin, its probably fine.



pottz said:


> my friend your alwayd so generous with everything you have.i dont wanna impose again so ill wait for the right time.thank you so much. 😎


Well, if you end up needing some, let me know. I processed 4 cubic feet of 6” long chunks just after my surgery, and there’s a bunch more out in the (3 acre) yard that my sweetie wants me to either pick up or throw away so she doesn’t have to worry about running into it while she’s out there. I’ll probably have to work on that in the spring when we have the community dumpster around for the month of May, so I don’t have to try and cram the spiky stuff into our regular garbage cart.

*Tony*, regrading making a sheath, I basically use the same technique that MaFe taught me when he made a couple sheaths for the knives I sent him. The one thing I change is that I don’t have a chunk of antler to compress and burnish the leather repeatedly to make it harder. For a sheath that’s going to spend most of its life sitting in my shop, rather than being worn on my belt 24/7, I think that’s fine, but I do have a tool somewhere made out of a scrap of oak for burnishing the leather if I am making one for everyday carry.

But I still get mad at VerticalScope for the violence they did to all the old blogs every time I go to look at one and get directed into the middle of some 40-page thread after they mashed them all flat. And I haven’t written a single blog entry since the changeover. Probably won’t ever write one on here again because it would be like trying to do woodworking with nothing but a panel saw and chisel from the hardware store. Sure, you can do it, but that doesn’t make it *fun*.

Next up is building a box to hold all my leather-working tools. I dimensioned all the lumber except for the lid yesterday. Going to try getting away with 1/8” thick walls on the box. Won’t be writing up a blog or project on that, I expect. But I’ve almost got enough bench-space cleared to start assembly work on my fancy laundry hamper, and I just have one or two more sessions of milling Rocky Mountain Juniper in order to have enough to start building the fireplace cover. Still have a chance of getting that done before Christmas, I think.


----------



## duckmilk

Yeah, I'm not thrilled with the change either. BTW, I received an email this morning that purports to be related to lumberjocks. It is from ADVRider dot com by digest at vesta dot threadloom dot news and lists a bunch of blogs from LJs. The only name I recognized was builtinbkyn.
At the bottom it says I am receiving this because I am a member and signed up for updates. I don't want updates from people I don't know. Anybody else getting these?


----------



## Lazyman

I saw some alerts (under my avatar) from someone I do not follow last night. I've got all of the email alerts turned off because they are too difficult to tune to just what I want.


----------



## pottz

duckmilk said:


> Yeah, I'm not thrilled with the change either. BTW, I received an email this morning that purports to be related to lumberjocks. It is from ADVRider dot com by digesta at vesta dot threadloom dot news and lists a bunch of blogs from LJs. The only name I recognized was builtinbkyn.
> At the bottom it says I am receiving this because I am a member and signed up for updates. I don't want updates from people I don't know. Anybody else getting these?


not so far.yeah who knows if thats legit or not.


----------



## pottz

DavePolaschek said:


> Most cholla doesn’t need any stabilizing. I think I remember having a few in the batch I sent you that were a little spongy, though. If you’re putting it in resin, its probably fine.
> 
> 
> 
> Well, if you end up needing some, let me know. I processed 4 cubic feet of 6” long chunks just after my surgery, and there’s a bunch more out in the (3 acre) yard that my sweetie wants me to either pick up or throw away so she doesn’t have to worry about running into it while she’s out there. I’ll probably have to work on that in the spring when we have the community dumpster around for the month of May, so I don’t have to try and cram the spiky stuff into our regular garbage cart.
> 
> *Tony*, regrading making a sheath, I basically use the same technique that MaFe taught me when he made a couple sheaths for the knives I sent him. The one thing I change is that I don’t have a chunk of antler to compress and burnish the leather repeatedly to make it harder. For a sheath that’s going to spend most of its life sitting in my shop, rather than being worn on my belt 24/7, I think that’s fine, but I do have a tool somewhere made out of a scrap of oak for burnishing the leather if I am making one for everyday carry.
> 
> But I still get mad at VerticalScope for the violence they did to all the old blogs every time I go to look at one and get directed into the middle of some 40-page thread after they mashed them all flat. And I haven’t written a single blog entry since the changeover. Probably won’t ever write one on here again because it would be like trying to do woodworking with nothing but a panel saw and chisel from the hardware store. Sure, you can do it, but that doesn’t make it *fun*.
> 
> Next up is building a box to hold all my leather-working tools. I dimensioned all the lumber except for the lid yesterday. Going to try getting away with 1/8” thick walls on the box. Won’t be writing up a blog or project on that, I expect. But I’ve almost got enough bench-space cleared to start assembly work on my fancy laundry hamper, and I just have one or two more sessions of milling Rocky Mountain Juniper in order to have enough to start building the fireplace cover. Still have a chance of getting that done before Christmas, I think.


i think keebs is sending me some blnks he made but if you can ill take some to make my own blanks too.shame to see it go to waste.i know your overloaded with it but it's kinda special for us city folk.


----------



## Keebler1

DaveP if you want me to post on facebook I can post some for sale for you. Cut it and put it in a box take a pic of it in the box and give me a price


----------



## DavePolaschek

Keebler1 said:


> DaveP if you want me to post on facebook I can post some for sale for you. Cut it and put it in a box take a pic of it in the box and give me a price


Not looking to sell it, Keebs. I don’t mind giving it to friends, but if I sell it, that makes it “work,” which is a four-letter word.

Pottz, I’ll find a use for it all eventually. There seems to be a lot of demand for more cholla and resin bowls. But if you want some, I can send a small FRB your way one of these days.


----------



## Lazyman

duckmilk said:


> Yeah, I'm not thrilled with the change either. BTW, I received an email this morning that purports to be related to lumberjocks. It is from ADVRider dot com by digest at vesta dot threadloom dot news and lists a bunch of blogs from LJs. The only name I recognized was builtinbkyn.
> At the bottom it says I am receiving this because I am a member and signed up for updates. I don't want updates from people I don't know. Anybody else getting these?


I just noticed that I got an email as well. If you look, Verticalscpe is listed at the bottom of the email. Looks like they may have turned on a new "feature" today. I thought that I had turned off all the email notices except for conversation notices. My guess is that these are controlled by the "Receive news and update emails" checkbox in preferences.


----------



## duckmilk

I just looked and you're right. I had posted the question to Cricket in the feedback.
Just turned off all email notifications.


----------



## RyanGi

Thanks for the heads up fells. I turned off the email option as well…I get enough spam. 

DaveP, I’d love to see some picks of how you decide to joint and finish those thin walls on the box. I’m always feeling like my small boxes are too thick, but I want the dimension for proper jointing. Always happy to learn something new!

oh, and I bought a set of carbide tipped turning tools from Dave at KelleyCrafts. They’re my first set of carbides as I’ve only ever turned with HSS. I got them un-handled as I enjoy turning my own handles for tools. I mean, why have a lathe if you’re not gonna turn, right?? Anyway, the quality of those tools he sent is simply fabulous. High quality work to be sure. For anyone interested in carbide tipped turning tools, you should hit him up!

i’m looking for input on handles or, I guess more correctly, turning techniques with carbide. I see a lot of production handles that appear to have multiple hand positions turned into them. I’m assuming this is because you need to choke up of carbide tools for small work? Im still new to turning, so if you guys have advise and tips I’d love to hear about them!

I’m getting out of town for a day or two, but hopefully will have my swap items finished next week (or the week after…depending on my shift schedule and honeydos). Fun stuff!


----------



## DavePolaschek

RyanGi said:


> DaveP, I’d love to see some picks of how you decide to joint and finish those thin walls on the box. I’m always feeling like my small boxes are too thick, but I want the dimension for proper jointing. Always happy to learn something new!


Quarter inch walls (like the box I posted this morning) I just dovetail as normal. Or miter and spline. For small boxes, quarter inch stock is plenty big for treating as normal. The only trick is using a finer saw (I use a 24 tpi saw for dovetailing such thin stock) so there’s not too much clean-up to do after sawing the joinery.

The eighth inch walls on the current box are getting built on corner posts. I glued two sides to the square glue blocks, waited for the glue to set, then glued the other two sides on. I'll also use glue-blocks to hold the bottoms to the sides, and maybe a block for the hinge and latch, as well.


----------



## RyanGi

Cool, thanks for the info Dave! Pretty box too!


----------



## Keebler1

I just turned my handles till they felt good in my hands. There isnt a single one that is the same. As I understand Dave is rounding the ends of the bars. I have 2 bars that share the same handle. They are the least used of the 4 I have. Didnt feel like making a handle for the fourth. I do have a pretty long handle mold that can be 3d printed and cast in. I think it is 6-7" long. If the turning isnt very jarring all the time that would be just long enough. I can send you the files if you want. Not sure I sent them with the earlier batch. Look for a file with a mold with diamonds in the center. Cant remember if there were 2 or 3.


----------



## RyanGi

I’ll look for that file. Thanks! And yes, the tool blanks came with the back ends turned down to a cylindrical cross section. 

So you’re thinking 6-7” for those handles? My HSS handles are closer to 12-14”. But again, I can see making these shorter since the blanks are smaller and there are less big hogging moves. Would you agree with that logic? 

In the past I’ve done as you say and just turned until they feel comfortable, maybe leaving them a little fat to make them more comfortable for longer sessions. I’m guessing everything scales down a bit for these?


----------



## Keebler1

Mine are longer but if it is something like pens or finishing cuts you could get away with a smaller handle. You could always try drilling the handle where the bar fits snug but can be removed so you could swap them around when a bigger handle is needed but being round that might not work. If I were to err on the side of caution and wanted to use the handle mold I printed I would dowel and epoxy them together as l9ng as the round part of the handle wont remove the dowel completely


----------



## pottz

DavePolaschek said:


> Not looking to sell it, Keebs. I don’t mind giving it to friends, but if I sell it, that makes it “work,” which is a four-letter word.
> 
> Pottz, I’ll find a use for it all eventually. There seems to be a lot of demand for more cholla and resin bowls. But if you want some, I can send a small FRB your way one of these days.


id love it dave,whenever you have time my friend.let me know what the shipping is.


----------



## RyanGi

Alright, well making them a bit short kinda makes sens to me. Maybe I’ll drill a hole in the round stock of the tool and pin them into the handles so they’re removable. I like to orient my handles so I know which way is up…not that it matters with these I suppose since the working end is square stock….


----------



## Keebler1

I dont have the round ends on mine. I would have long and short handles. I wouldnt pin them at first try getting a tight friction fit and see if that works. You could always order a second round bar or whatever one you like using for small stuff from Dave and make that a short handle and epoxy the others into normal size handles with ferrules. All mine are in longer handles. I just thought about that mold cause it looks neat once cast and turned.


----------



## pottz

hey i think ive said it before but your all welcome on (pottz patio) so get your tired, worn out asses over there and chill with me. plus i gave some sneak peeks of an up coming project im doing.and it's knife friendly boys !!!!


----------



## therealSteveN

Missing a lot more than I used to be. New software has taken any thought of FUN out of coming here, so I just don't. I imagine the others missing's are along the same line. For me it wasn't broken, and I am a firm believer of, if it's not broke....

I'm making knives like a crazy Man, I am finding that sheaths are a regular PIA though. I did a lot of leather stuff for black powder, but with that eveyone wants to look like a stone age caveman, so rough and ragged was a mark of excellence. Trying to make something I wouldn't be ashamed of to present to someone in this swap, is killing me.


----------



## DavePolaschek

therealSteveN said:


> I'm making knives like a crazy Man, I am finding that sheaths are a regular PIA though. I did a lot of leather stuff for black powder, but with that eveyone wants to look like a stone age caveman, so rough and ragged was a mark of excellence. Trying to make something I wouldn't be ashamed of to present to someone in this swap, is killing me.


I learned about everything I know about making a sheath for a knife from Mads’ post on a knife sheath he made for me, SteveN. It walked through all the steps from start to finish pretty clearly.


----------



## HokieKen

I had a long weekend on the road. I drove 7 hours to Charleston, SC on Saturday. Got there at 3 and went to a wedding at 4:30. Was at the wedding until 10:00 then back to the hotel to sleep. Up and back on the road at 8:00 yesterday morning. Home about 4:00. So I should have known I was not in a good mental place to work on my swap knife. But I did anyway. I spent an hour grinding in bevels on the two identical blades (one for swap one for Christmas gift). And I was really happy with how well the bevels came out. Sometimes grinding in bevels can make or break a blade for me. It's by far the hardest part of the process IMO. And these had to be free-handed because the edge geometries are far from straight. But I did them and all 4 bevels were damn near perfect for what I had envisioned in my head

So I spent a few minutes patting myself on the back and decided to go ahead and get some stock cut for handles so I could drill pin holes before I harden the blades. So I laid the blades on the sketch I was working from to make sure the handles were still going to fit up like I had designed it originally. *That was when I realized I had ground my bevels on the spine of the blades*. I was livid. Neighbors covering their kids' ears livid. It was a stupid mistake and executed in spectacular fashion. 

So after calming down, I see a possible avenue to salvage my idiocy. We'll see how it plays out...


----------



## RyanGi

What I like so much about this post Ken, is it’s exactly something I would do. Not stop and check plans after the first bevel or anything, just run em all through. Perfect! I’ll bet they turn out to be awesome knives anyway…


----------



## Keebler1

Just put bevels on the correct side. When sharpening sharpen both sides so they can choose whoch edge to cut with


----------



## EricFai

Ok Guys, I'm still here. Main Item just needs finish applied and I started on a bonus item this evening. I should be able to finish the bonus quickly, so I can ship on time. Here is my teaser.


----------



## HokieKen

Crisis averted😁 Back on track with the original design despite my faux pas.


----------



## Keebler1

We knew you could do it


----------



## Keebler1

ToddJB and Bigshooter yall still good to ship on time?


----------



## EricFai

Keebler1 said:


> We knew you could do it


Thanks Keebler.
Yea, there was just a few other things going on. And I got started on that DC System install too. In fact I'm at the point with that where I need to think about the best connection ports for the machines. Fabrication time.


----------



## duckmilk

Nice Eric, you're sending a bench top moxon as the bonus. What a guy!!! 👏


----------



## DavePolaschek

Well, we should have a couple Rs by now. Or did porch pirates score some knives?


----------



## EricFai

duckmilk said:


> Nice Eric, you're sending a bench top moxon as the bonus. What a guy!!! 👏


Send me the parts and I'll build you one. That has been a great addition the my shop, gets used just about every time I'm in the shop, sometimes just as a desk too.


----------



## pottz

HokieKen said:


> Crisis averted😁 Back on track with the original design despite my faux pas.


dang kenny i was getting flashbacks from the beer swap 🤣


----------



## Lazyman

Eric, is that the Woodriver Moxon vise hardward? I think that I am going to build a vise in the next few weeks.


----------



## EricFai

Lazyman said:


> Eric, is that the Woodriver Moxon vise hardward? I think that I am going to build a vise in the next few weeks.


Nathan, yes it is. When I was looking for hardware they seemed to be the best for the value. It went together nicely, I took the time to make a hexogon mortise for the nuts on the back side. I still need to add a pad to the chops, but it holds very well without it.


----------



## Lazyman

Sounds like you are happy with with the WR kit. I have a 10% coupon for Woodcraft so I may use it for that. For "just" another $70 or so, the Benchcrafted set is pretty tempting.


----------



## Keebler1

Have updated post only 2 shipped and 1 R so far.


----------



## DavePolaschek

Keebler1 said:


> Have updated post only 2 shipped and 1 R so far.


Huh. USPS said delivered to receptionist on Saturday.


----------



## Keebler1

You know how that goes with him. He probably played sick on monday


----------



## duckmilk

Here's one for the books if anyone is keeping count.
I had made an extra hash knife for my son, shipped it UPS. It was in tracking from here to Ft Worth, to Vernon TX, to Commerce City CO (basically Denver), was scanned loading on the truck out for delivery to a local UPS store for pickup. Disappeared from there. My son filed a claim 4 weeks ago. Yesterday, he called the store and they said a claim check had been sent, but, they sent the check to the store we shipped from and never bothered to call us.
Still curious where the hash knife went and how no one could find it.


----------



## Keebler1

Someone took it home


----------



## Keebler1

Must be following the thread. Yall watch your knife packages lol


----------



## GR8HUNTER

mine is in his hands and he is using it HOPE HES HAPPY 😎 😎 🤪


----------



## DavePolaschek

Ryan, you were asking about the thin-walled box I’m working on.









This is just about 8½x11 inches. The lid is currently in clamps, putting the glue blocks for the edge of the lid on, but the bottom is together. The corner blocks are 3/4 ash scraps. The bottom glue blocks are 1/4 pine. 

When complete, it’ll hold my leather-working tools.


----------



## RyanGi

Just glue? Or glue and brads?


----------



## pottz

ok keebs give me a big fat juicy R. box was just brought to me and it was full of beautiful things and and some tasty wood.once again dave has gone above and beyond.it's funny they told you saturday,we were closed that day.

mine is all wrapped up waiting for the UPS gorilla to try there best to destroy.it's well wrapped and padded so i think it will make it in one piece.


----------



## DavePolaschek

Just glue, Ryan. Brads would likely split the 3/32 sapele (I though eighth, but it’s thinner than that when I actually measured) if I didn’t drill pilot holes.

Glad you got it, Pottz! There’ll be a small box of cholla on its way to you later today.

Are you sure you’re closed on Saturday, Pottz, or is that just what your boss tells you? ;-)


----------



## GR8HUNTER

seems to me like extra work to make a thin-walled box just curious why you made it so thin ?


----------



## RyanGi

Can’t speak for Dave, but in the past I’ve wanted smaller boxes and wanted to use some scrap for them. In order to get the sides to match aesthetically, I was able to resaw to get multiple planks, but they’re thiiiin. But I’ve always struggled with an elegant way to joint the corners. Also, when I’ve made smaller stuff, I always feel like the wall dimensions don’t compliment the size of the box when they’re thick. Makes it feel chonky and unprofessional to me.

I try to do alot with my scraps since EVERYTHING is so damn expensive out here and we don’t have the abundance of hardwood that some folks enjoy. That makes for certain challenges!

good lord, the autocorrecting on this new site is killing me. I’ve had to re-read and make corrections five times for this post…nope now it’s six. 😤


----------



## pottz

DavePolaschek said:


> Just glue, Ryan. Brads would likely split the 3/32 sapele (I though eighth, but it’s thinner than that when I actually measured) if I didn’t drill pilot holes.
> 
> Glad you got it, Pottz! There’ll be a small box of cholla on its way to you later today.
> 
> Are you sure you’re closed on Saturday, Pottz, or is that just what your boss tells you? ;-)


no i was here with a worker doing some stuff in my building,gates were locked.they lied !


----------



## pottz

ok keebs give me an S ups just picked it up.


----------



## Keebler1

I cant give you 2 letters in one day you have to pick s or r


----------



## RyanGi

It’s a God Ordained miracle my friends…just filled up at CostCo for $4.89/gal!! Sigh…


----------



## DavePolaschek

GR8HUNTER said:


> seems to me like extra work to make a thin-walled box just curious why you made it so thin ?


I had resawed some 5/4 sapele into two 3/8 thick pieces (the lid of the briefcase I made for the BeerBQ swap), and had another piece left that was maybe 1/4, but my kerfs had wandered a bit, so by the time I flattened both sides of it, it was down to 3/32 or so. But I’d rather not throw it out, so it became that box.

I had initially figured I’d use it as thick veneer, but after making the sheath for the knife I made for myself, I realized I needed a box to hold my leather-working tools, so here we are.

I’m getting better at resawing, so most of my leftover scraps are now over 1/4 thick, which is nice for making small boxes. 3/32 was pretty darned thin, but I think it’ll end up being a pretty nice box once I’m done. And yeah, working that thin is slower, but I’m retired, so it’s not as if I have to worry about deadlines.


----------



## pottz

RyanGi said:


> It’s a God Ordained miracle my friends…just filled up at CostCo for $4.89/gal!! Sigh…


the lowest i saw here last week was 4.99 some are charging up to 6.50


----------



## duckmilk

RyanGi said:


> It’s a God Ordained miracle my friends…just filled up at CostCo for $4.89/gal!! Sigh…


Dang, I just saw gas at $3.19 here. I'm paying $4.79 for diesel. I wonder why diesel is $1.50 higher than gas? That affects the cost of shipping anything to go up and, I hear, diesel is cheaper to produce than gasoline.


----------



## pottz

duckmilk said:


> Dang, I just saw gas at $3.19 here. I'm paying $4.79 for diesel. I wonder why diesel is $1.50 higher than gas? That affects the cost of shipping anything to go up and, I hear, diesel is cheaper to produce than gasoline.


yeah years ago it was an incentive to get a diesel car or truck,not anymore.it's been higher than gas for many years here. we just had another gas tax increase july 1st, 52 cents a gallon is tax for our roads here. and most are in poor shape


----------



## GR8HUNTER

pottz said:


> yeah years ago it was an incentive to get a diesel car or truck,not anymore.it's been higher than gas for many years here. we just had another gas tax increase july 1st, 52 cents a gallon is tax for our roads here. and most are in poor shape


same in pa or bridges suck also


----------



## duckmilk

Thing is, I'm getting about 7 - 8 mpg more with a diesel than the same sized gas pickup I traded off


----------



## pottz

duckmilk said:


> Thing is, I'm getting about 7 - 8 mpg more with a diesel than the same sized gas pickup I traded off


ahhhh,so you want your cake and eat it too 😁


----------



## duckmilk

YUP! 🎂
No, it just makes the money out of my pocket a little more even.


----------



## Keebler1

Has diesel used to be cheaper than gas to make cause it was a byproduct of making gas but with all the emissions crap that has been added that killed that. Also saw some stories in bloomberg and other spots about the us only having a 25 day supply of diesel which is going to keep prices high


----------



## duckmilk

Thanks Keebs. Regs just cost us more I guess.

There was some time years ago when the truckers went on strike because of the prices and prices went back down.


----------



## BigShooter

Keebler1 said:


> ToddJB and Bigshooter yall still good to ship on time?


I should ship tomorrow, as long as my extra, extra gets done


----------



## ToddJB

Keebler1 said:


> ToddJB and Bigshooter yall still good to ship on time?


Yessir


----------



## RyanGi

If I weren’t heading back on shift I’d be shipping this week, but I think it’s gonna be next week. All done but the last details!

Speaking of such, I turned a couple tool handles today for the carbide tools I bought from KelleyCrafts while I was waiting on some swap items to cure up. I kinda went with the double handle thing that I’ve seen elsewhere for carbide tipped tools. I guess my thinking is you can choke up for detail work. The discerning eye will pick up that the square tip tool handle is a bit beefier and squat and the Diamond tip tool handle is more delicate and slender. I’m told only the finest turners can make such minor design alterations to compliment the specific job applications of tool like these. Which makes me wonder how the hell I did it… my Mark 1 eyeball obviously needs tuning. Not bad, all said. Sapele, friction polished and waxed.


----------



## EricFai

They look great Ryan, well done.


----------



## RyanGi

Thanks Eric, we‘ll see how they turn! Looking forward to it.


----------



## Keebler1

Nice handles Ryan


----------



## HokieKen

Very nice Ryan. I’m a big fan of the double handles on my KC carbide tools. I use the short grip for spindle work and the long grip inside bowls.


----------



## pottz

RyanGi said:


> If I weren’t heading back on shift I’d be shipping this week, but I think it’s gonna be next week. All done but the last details!
> 
> Speaking of such, I turned a couple tool handles today for the carbide tools I bought from KelleyCrafts while I was waiting on some swap items to cure up. I kinda went with the double handle thing that I’ve seen elsewhere for carbide tipped tools. I guess my thinking is you can choke up for detail work. The discerning eye will pick up that the square tip tool handle is a bit beefier and squat and the Diamond tip tool handle is more delicate and slender. I’m told only the finest turners can make such minor design alterations to compliment the specific job applications of tool like these. Which makes me wonder how the hell I did it… my Mark 1 eyeball obviously needs tuning. Not bad, all said. Sapele, friction polished and waxed.
> 
> View attachment 3857991


wow those came out beautiful. 😎


----------



## Keebler1

DaveP your package shows delivery friday


----------



## RyanGi

Thanks fellas, now I’ve just got to learn to use them!


----------



## GR8HUNTER

real nice handles Ryan now the easy part using them i am happy with ones i built


----------



## recycle1943

my weekly check in - 
btw - I'm done with my "knife" build and even an extra something. The items are boxed and protected with foam, taped, labeled and waiting for an opportune time to mail. I have to walk a couple hundred feet to get to the Post Office, so I'm trying to time the route so my victim gets it before Christmas. I'm pretty sure the mail leaves Malvern and goes to Canton, then Akron and then either to a distribution center in Pittsburgh Pa. or Chicago Ill. It may even have to go to Atlanta, doesn't everything that travels end up in Atlanta sooner or later ? Believe it or not, I have had packages go back to Akron and then again off to another distribution center somewhere.
Bottom line, I'd like to warn my victim about what he's about to receive but that would take ALL of the fun out of it so I'll just take it over next week see what happens.


----------



## EricFai

I guess I'm taking Grants place on this one. Speaking of whom, has anyone heard from Grant?

I'm working on a bonus item now, and it is coming along nicely, I think my recipient will like it.


----------



## EricFai

Curious here. Yes this swap is still in process and wrapping up in a few weeks. Then we have Christmas coming up, so folks would be busy making gifts and such. But would there be an interest in another Turning Swap starting up after the first of the year? My idea is in the lines of segmented turnings.


----------



## Keebler1

I would be interested in a turning swap but would have to think about the segmented part of it. Not sure what I would do


----------



## RyanGi

I’m interested in a turning swap!


----------



## DavePolaschek

EricFai said:


> Speaking of whom, has anyone heard from Grant?


He hasn’t been active here for about a year when last I checked, but according to the powers-that-be his account is valid on the new site, so it’s just that he hasn’t stopped in. I haven’t tried emailing. Figured he just doesn’t love us any more.


----------



## Keebler1

I know Earl is interested in a turning swap now thay he has his lathe set up


----------



## EricFai

A few takers, that's good, I'll see if I can work up some details. Only thing is I would have it starting after the first of the year.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

so Eric is running a segmented turning swap Im out LOL 🤪


----------



## Keebler1

Come on Tony you can turn something. Ill send you a segmented pen blank you can turn on your drill press lol


----------



## Lazyman

I am always looking to try something new turning-wise so I can usually be persuaded to join a turning swap. Turning can cover tool handles and mallets to decorative items. You can also make it inclusive by allowing people without lathes to make something similar using other tools (hand carved pens, hand hewn bowls, spoke shaved handles, etc.).


----------



## pottz

im gonna sit the next one out.ive got other projects ive been putting on hold. ive given you guys way too much of my valuable time already 🤣 😎


----------



## Keebler1

Thats not allowed Pottz. Dont make me take a load of manure to your feont porch


----------



## pottz

Keebler1 said:


> Thats not allowed Pottz. Dont make me take a load of manure to your feont porch


sounds like ill need to get my lawyer involved 😎


----------



## Keebler1

They wont help you as I have a signed bill of lading showing it shipping there with special instructions to dump on the porch


----------



## pottz

Keebler1 said:


> They wont help you as I have a signed bill of lading showing it shipping there with special instructions to dump on the porch


i should know better than mess with a trucker


----------



## Lazyman

Reminds me of a couple of pranks a couple of guys I heard about played on each other. The first one spent weeks requesting informational flyers to be mailed to the other guy from dozens of places (this was before email was widely used and spam was a thing). His mail box was crammed full for weeks. When they required a phone number. they would usually call to follow up around dinner time which happened for even longer. To get even, the other guy scheduled a bunch of free estimates for work on his buddies house all at the same time. He just went through the yellow pages looking for ads with free estimates. The first few were early and he just told them it was a mistake. Once he figured out it was his friend getting even, he just let the main wave give their estimates so that they would not form an angry mob. The traffic jam in front of his house was epic. Imagine 20 or 30 pickup trucks trying to park in front of your house. Of course several of them didn't show up on time so they trickled in for the rest of the day and even for a few days after.

They were both lawyers, BTW.


----------



## EricFai

pottz said:


> im gonna sit the next one out.ive got other projects ive been putting on hold. ive given you guys way too much of my valuable time already 🤣 😎


Come on Pottz, I'm looking at after Christmas with reveal sometime late February or early March.


----------



## pottz

EricFai said:


> Come on Pottz, I'm looking at after Christmas with reveal sometime late February or early March.


man this is a high pressure bunch,worse than a jehovah witness on a saturday morning


----------



## GR8HUNTER

HE WILL JOIN TILL THEN IM SURE HES ADDICTED 🤣 🤣 🤣 🤣


----------



## EricFai

Tony you could join too.


----------



## DavePolaschek

Productive morning today. Oil change at 8am, then home and to the shop. Got the sheath for the knife I made for me dyed and got two coats of Resolene on it. Got all the inserts into the box for my leather working tools. Picked out a couple pieces of wood for handles for a pair of pin vises I need to make, then noticed I still had the buffing wheels on the lathe, so scrounged more lumber to make a box to hold them and the compound. The doors from my sweetie’s old desk-topper (red oak, with some hideous greenish veneer that someone thought was a good idea in the 1970s, but which came off pretty quickly in the planer) are going to be the sides of that box, and four of them are glued together now. Top and bottom are cut and will go on this afternoon so I can saw the box open and put on hinges and a coat of tung oil tomorrow. Or mañana. Or maybe paint, because after all, it’s red oak.

I might be in for a segmented turning swap, but I'll need to see how the rest of this year goes. We had a big wind earlier this week (45mph) and when it came whooshing down the chimney, I got a pointed question about when I’m going to be finishing the cover for that…


----------



## Keebler1

Eric I think ship date needs to be mid March at the earliest for a segmented turning swap. I could be wrong though what do yall think? That mug i did for the beerbq swap took over a month for me to complete


----------



## Keebler1

Dave what polishing wheels setup do you have for your lathe?


----------



## GR8HUNTER

i think they usually end around 15 of march


----------



## DavePolaschek

Keebler1 said:


> Dave what polishing wheels setup do you have for your lathe?


I’ve got the kit from Penn State, Keebs.


----------



## Keebler1

Thanks Dave. I have looked at buffing wheels a couple of times just havent pulled the trigger yet


----------



## pottz

DavePolaschek said:


> I’ve got the kit from Penn State, Keebs.


mine had 3 wheels with the compounds.


----------



## DavePolaschek

Keebler1 said:


> Thanks Dave. I have looked at buffing wheels a couple of times just havent pulled the trigger yet


I’m not completely happy with it, but it works ok, and was a lot quicker than building one from parts. For what I’ve needed so far, two wheels (one with compound, and one dry) seems to work fine.


----------



## EricFai

GR8HUNTER said:


> i think they usually end around 15 of march


Just in time for St Patty's Day.


----------



## RyanGi

Keebs- I just bought the Beall 3 wheel system. Haven’t receieved it yet, but I think it should be home when I get off shift. If you’re not time pressed I can send you info on it once I get it up and running. I’ve got a smaller, two wheel set for pens and other small stuff (I think it’s actually meant a for acrylics- just purple abrasive on a tan wheel and a naked flannel wheel, but it works great for that!). I wanted the bigger 8” wheels for bigger projects and to have more options for abrasives.


----------



## Keebler1

Pottz the 3 wheel one is about double what that one Dave has costs. Been using sanding pastes to polish my pens but not completely hapoy with it. Seems i get a better polish from stadium pen blanks magic juice. May order the polishing wheels and try those


----------



## Keebler1

Ryan no big hurry. Im currently broke and looks like thats my problem till after the first of the year


----------



## RyanGi

Keebs this is the one I got from Penn. 

Take it with a grain of salt since I’m very new to acrylics, but I wet sand with micro mesh pads until a high grit, then use the One-Step plastic polish, and then use that two wheel system from Penn. I collected some of those pieces in anticipation for the pen swap that fell through. The times I’ve used it, the pieces have come out very very clean without too terribly much labor.

but again, I don’t have much experience this area so I could be way off!

Geeking out a little bit while researching, it appears that the correct polishing compounds with the correct wheel at the correct stage is very important depending on what type of material you’re polishing. But that could just be a sales pitch too I suppose?


----------



## Keebler1

Ryan thats what I may get. Try stadium pen blanks magic juice. I wet sand to 1500 grit then use that without buffing wheels and it looks great. My buddy says the polishing pastes are better but he uses the first 2 micromesh pads then the pastes then buffing wheel


----------



## RyanGi

I know not all of you guys are into the CNC thing, but Shaper just announced the release of their Gen 2 Shaper Origin. It doesn’t drop until later this year (I think) but if you were considering the purchase, it’s worth looking into. Or maybe you can find a Gen 1 for cheaper soon??


----------



## RyanGi

Keebler1 said:


> Ryan thats what I may get. Try stadium pen blanks magic juice. I wet sand to 1500 grit then use that without buffing wheels and it looks great. My buddy says the polishing pastes are better but he uses the first 2 micromesh pads then the pastes then buffing wheel


I’ll have to look into it. I’m pretty impressed thus far but, again, this is kinda new to me so I probably get amazed pretty easily!!


----------



## pottz

Keebler1 said:


> Ryan no big hurry. Im currently broke and looks like thats my problem till after the first of the year


thats what the wife keeps telling me. i said ,your crazy weve got plenty of checks left !


----------



## GR8HUNTER

oh wow what rabbit hole did i just jump in 🤪 🤪 🥺🥺


----------



## pottz

GR8HUNTER said:


> oh wow what rabbit hole did i just jump in 🤪 🤪 🥺🥺


the best my friend !!!! just buckle up buddy and we'll all help you drive.


----------



## HokieKen

Micro mesh is all the polishing I ever need for pens. Acrylic or wood. For metal or larger stuff, I have a bench grinder with several cotton wheels and an array of polishing compounds.


----------



## DavePolaschek

Got the blanks today, Keebs. Thanks, man!


----------



## HokieKen

It’s not a swap knife but, I’ve been working on a custom Swiss Army knife for myself. I carry a larger Benchmade as my EDC butfor the last year or so I’ve gotten in the habit of keeping a smaller “multi-tool” knife as well.

I’ve decided I like the Mini-Champ and I like the flashlight version. But I also like the tweezers and toothpick and you can’t buy one with all 3. In fact, I haven’t found one with the light that didn’t have the ballpoint pen on the other side. And I don’t care about that at all. So I designed some scales to replace the pen with one that holds tweezers AND toothpick😎








I even added a straight pin to it.








But of course the scales need to match so I made a replacement for the flashlight side too.

















There will definitely be no going back in regards tohaving a 3D printer 😁


----------



## pottz

HokieKen said:


> Micro mesh is all the polishing I ever need for pens. Acrylic or wood. For metal or larger stuff, I have a bench grinder with several cotton wheels and an array of polishing compounds.


micro for wood kenny.a little too pricey for me buddy. now for plastic definitely !!!!


----------



## HokieKen

I use it on wood after applying a CA finish Pottz.


----------



## pottz

HokieKen said:


> I use it on wood after applying a CA finish Pottz.


i dont care for ca finishes much myself. it's like making a plastic pen to me.i like the feel of the wood in my hand. probably why all my furniture is finished with hand rubbed oil.


----------



## WoodenDreams

pottz said:


> i dont care for ca finishes much myself. it's like making a plastic pen to me.i like the feel of the wood in my hand. probably why all my furniture is finished with hand rubbed oil.


CA is quick and easy for someone that's in a hurry. But for some, I think they use CA because of the aroma while applying a fresh coat of CA.


----------



## Keebler1

If I am going for quick easy finish on a wood pen its either mylands friction polish or woodturners finish. I mainly use CA cause i like the glossy finish you get with it


----------



## HokieKen

I like CA because it's durable.


----------



## Lazyman

I bought some Micromesh because I saw demos of pen turners using it to wet sand CA. I have never used it because I find that sanding with Mirka Abranet to about 800 grit and then using Stickfast polish, gives me an excellent finish. My first use of CA was actually with the first turned beer mugs I made right after I got my first lathe. I wanted a finish that could handle washing and alcohol. I used it on this gear shift nob because I wanted a high polish and durability.










EDIT:

Here is a good picture of the second beer mug I made that I finished with CA:


----------



## pottz

yeah ca has it's place if you want a high gloss durable finish.just not my fav.


----------



## Keebler1

Going in the pressure pot


----------



## Keebler1




----------



## Keebler1

Pottz you can get 5 blanks from the 5.25x5.25 block and 2 from the other. Do you want me to cut the blocks up or just ship them as is?


----------



## GR8HUNTER

hey pirate keebs give me a delicious big R  😁


----------



## Keebler1

Got the last coats of finish on my items. They will ship next weekend


----------



## KelleyCrafts

RyanGi said:


> If I weren’t heading back on shift I’d be shipping this week, but I think it’s gonna be next week. All done but the last details!
> 
> Speaking of such, I turned a couple tool handles today for the carbide tools I bought from KelleyCrafts while I was waiting on some swap items to cure up. I kinda went with the double handle thing that I’ve seen elsewhere for carbide tipped tools. I guess my thinking is you can choke up for detail work. The discerning eye will pick up that the square tip tool handle is a bit beefier and squat and the Diamond tip tool handle is more delicate and slender. I’m told only the finest turners can make such minor design alterations to compliment the specific job applications of tool like these. Which makes me wonder how the hell I did it… my Mark 1 eyeball obviously needs tuning. Not bad, all said. Sapele, friction polished and waxed.
> 
> View attachment 3857991


Sorry Ryan I have been MIA. I haven't been on the forum much since the change. Not to sure why but I don't like it even though so much of it is so much better. I'll work on that part for sure.

Your handles look a little short for my liking, could just be the picture, BUT they look fantastic otherwise! Those should be a joy to use for you. I hope you enjoy them at least.


----------



## RyanGi

Thanks Dave. They’re about 9” overall, give or take. They’ve worked out so far, just with a couple quick tests.


----------



## KelleyCrafts

EricFai said:


> I guess I'm taking Grants place on this one. Speaking of whom, has anyone heard from Grant?
> 
> I'm working on a bonus item now, and it is coming along nicely, I think my recipient will like it.


He text me not to long ago. He's alive and well. Not sure why he hasn't been around.


----------



## KelleyCrafts

I think you'll love them. I honestly barely grab an HSS tool anymore. I miss the finish but not the pause to sharpen so I'm lazy enough to just use carbide 95% of the time.


----------



## pottz

Keebler1 said:


> Pottz you can get 5 blanks from the 5.25x5.25 block and 2 from the other. Do you want me to cut the blocks up or just ship them as is?


as is is fine.thanks buddy.


KelleyCrafts said:


> I think you'll love them. I honestly barely grab an HSS tool anymore. I miss the finish but not the pause to sharpen so I'm lazy enough to just use carbide 95% of the time.


totally agree,i wanna turn not sharpen.


----------



## RyanGi

We‘ll see, I like having options.


----------



## EricFai

KelleyCrafts said:


> He text me not to long ago. He's alive and well. Not sure why he hasn't been around.


Good to hear he is alive and kicking.

Started with the finishes on my swap project, hope to ship by the end of next week. Working on a few other projects to, trying to figure out the dust ports on machines. Cut out the required pieces for a new router table fence which includes a port tonight. I think I have an idea for the lower side of the table.


----------



## HokieKen

I use my carbides a lot on bowls and exclusively on anything that isn’t wood (acrylic/plastic/brass) but for spindle work, I just can’t give up my HSS gouges and skews. I’ve got my shop so that my grinder is right next to the lathe and always ready to go so sharpening doesn’t hinder me. It’s less than 30 seconds to touch up a gouge.


----------



## HokieKen

Dave is right, Grant still alive. The “well” part is debatable 😆


----------



## DavePolaschek

Ryan, I posted the box with the thin sides. Came out pretty well. Lots of glue blocks.


----------



## pottz

HokieKen said:


> I use my carbides a lot on bowls and exclusively on anything that isn’t wood (acrylic/plastic/brass) but for spindle work, I just can’t give up my HSS gouges and skews. I’ve got my shop so that my grinder is right next to the lathe and always ready to go so sharpening doesn’t hinder me. It’s less than 30 seconds to touch up a gouge.


kenny i dont have 30 seconds too spare man.and it's probably more like 5 minutes bud ! with carbide im the energizer bunny  🤣


----------



## RyanGi

Pottz you gotta get a better sharpening setup for you HSS. 5min is a long ass time man! I do love having my grinder and jigs set up right next to the lathe. Very quick and convenient!

Thanks for posting the box Dave, I’ll take a look!


----------



## pottz

RyanGi said:


> Pottz you gotta get a better sharpening setup for you HSS. 5min is a long ass time man! I do love having my grinder and jigs set up right next to the lathe. Very quick and convenient!
> 
> Thanks for posting the box Dave, I’ll take a look!


you guys need to time your selves better. 30 seconds is a joke. with carbide i go start to finish with no time to sharpen.peroiod !!!! an virtually no catches !  so spank me


----------



## RyanGi

I think Pottz uses an hour glass instead of a watch!


----------



## pottz

RyanGi said:


> I think Pottz uses an hour glass instead of a watch!


🤣 no it's you old [email protected]#ks loose track of time. you tell me your tool gets dull and you need to stop to sharpen.and in 30 seconds youve done that and are back turning !!!!! ill bet you my shop,everything in it againts yours
!!!! and then we test the accuracy and sharpness ? any takers ?


----------



## RyanGi

Ha! I’m probably one of the younger guys on here Pottzy, I’m only 46! But I dunno, with my wolverines jig set up, I know I can put the edge back on my spindle gouge in under a minute. I’ll give the 30 second trial a run when I get off shift and see how close I can come 😜 That jig is just amazingly fast to use once it’s set. Now, I will say that changing the settings for multiple tools does take a couple minutes. I probably need to put some landmarks on the jig to make that easier. When I was using frangible wheels the marks didn’t make sense because the wheel diameter changes, but with the CBN that’s no longer an issue. Sounds like a good thing to do 👍🏼


----------



## pottz

RyanGi said:


> Ha! I’m probably one of the younger guys on here Pottzy, I’m only 46! But I dunno, with my wolverines jig set up, I know I can put the edge back on my spindle gouge in under a minute. I’ll give the 30 second trial a run when I get off shift and see how close I can come 😜 That jig is just amazingly fast to use once it’s set. Now, I will say that changing the settings for multiple tools does take a couple minutes. I probably need to put some landmarks on the jig to make that easier. When I was using frangible wheels the marks didn’t make sense because the wheel diameter changes, but with the CBN that’s no longer an issue. Sounds like a good thing to do 👍🏼


damn did i hit a nerve ? ok fine the "actually" grind time might be a minute but in real time,by the time you realize your tool is dull and you stop turning to mount the tool on your jig to sharpen then resume turning is a hell of a lot more than 30 seconds to a minute. lets be realistic ! im just saying as kellys crafts has,no time wasted sharpening ! maybe "30" seconds spent to loosen the screw to turn the carbide cutter !!!! i rest my case


----------



## pottz

pottz said:


> damn did i hit a nerve ? ok fine the "actually" grind time might be a minute but in real time,by the time you realize your tool is dull and you stop turning to mount the tool on your jig to sharpen then resume turning is a hell of a lot more than 30 seconds to a minute. lets be realistic ! im just saying as kellys crafts has,no time wasted sharpening ! maybe "30" seconds spent to loosen the screw to turn the carbide cutter !!!! i rest my case


----------



## RyanGi

No nerves here Pottz! I probably over sharpen because I’m new-ish to turning, but I just sharpen every so often ‘just to keep it sharp’, I don’t wait until it’s dull. So, yeah, I get what you’re saying if you’re waiting to figure out if the tool is dull. Hell, that might take me 5 minutes alone! I’m excited to get more time on the carbide tools…but I do find there’s more sanding with the carbides. Maybe I’ll get better with them and reduce that some!


----------



## pottz

RyanGi said:


> No nerves here Pottz! I probably over sharpen because I’m new-ish to turning, but I just sharpen every so often ‘just to keep it sharp’, I don’t wait until it’s dull. So, yeah, I get what you’re saying if you’re waiting to figure out if the tool is dull. Hell, that might take me 5 minutes alone! I’m excited to get more time on the carbide tools…but I do find there’s more sanding with the carbides. Maybe I’ll get better with them and reduce that some!


it's all cool buddy.what works for you is all that matters my friend ! it's the rsults that matter and show what works and doesn't ! just find what works for you


----------



## EricFai

I use HSS tools for the lathe, an have a few carbides. I will usually touch up the HSS before I start turning, works for me.


----------



## HokieKen

I’m videoing a gouge sharpening tonight and taking pottz’s shop😁


----------



## HokieKen

Seriously, no argument about the convenience of carbides. And the learning curve is virtually nothing with carbides. But, for spindle turning, I reduce my sanding time by about 95% by using HSS instead. As with anything, there’s many ways to skin a cat but I always recommend new turners try both. Personally if I had to give up one or the other, I’d ditch the carbides. But I’m also really glad I don’t have to give up either one😜


----------



## HokieKen

New tracksaw out of the box🙄


----------



## Keebler1

Usps strikes again..
I have both hss and carbide. I learned on carbide and periodically attemp hss. One of these days im gonna crash Nathans shop and get him to teach me how to use hss. I know there are plenty of youtube videos but stuff like that i do better lerlarning in person


----------



## GR8HUNTER

i learned on HSS good with them but not a pro 🥺 just recent got carbides and love them 😁


----------



## RyanGi

Boo…for broken track saws!


----------



## pottz

HokieKen said:


> I’m videoing a gouge sharpening tonight and taking pottz’s shop😁





HokieKen said:


> I’m videoing a gouge sharpening tonight and taking pottz’s shop😁


 🤣sad thing is kenny i never put it in writing


----------



## pottz

HokieKen said:


> New tracksaw out of the box🙄
> View attachment 3858578


well that sucks  hey come on over ive been using mine all morning it's readt to go


----------



## WoodenDreams

Realistically, I consider myself a newbie to turning. read a few books, watched a bunch of videos. So, I've been doing both, the HSS and carbide. Also using the negative carbide inserts. I seem to prefer using the HSS for the final passes.

I hope the saw wasn't packed in that condition. Great packaging? It seems like the delivery driver don't really care about special handling, just quickness. Packages sure get tossed around more now-a-days.


----------



## Keebler1

pottz said:


> 🤣 no it's you old [email protected]#ks loose track of time. you tell me your tool gets dull and you need to stop to sharpen.and in 30 seconds youve done that and are back turning !!!!! ill bet you my shop,everything in it againts yours
> !!!! and then we test the accuracy and sharpness ? any takers ?





pottz said:


> 🤣sad thing is kenny i never put it in writing


Pottz it looks to me like it is in writing lol


----------



## GR8HUNTER

well i just epoxy my first set of tubes in today  
now waiting for bushings 7mm 🥺


----------



## Keebler1

Nice Tony


----------



## EricFai

GR8HUNTER said:


> well i just epoxy my first set of tubes in today
> now waiting for bushings 7mm 🥺


Tony, you have started down that rabbit hole, no turning back (pun intended).


----------



## pottz

Keebler1 said:


> Pottz it looks to me like it is in writing lol


sorry buddy but you know anything posted online can be manipulated.and its not signed or notarized.sorry


----------



## pottz

GR8HUNTER said:


> well i just epoxy my first set of tubes in today
> now waiting for bushings 7mm 🥺


damn,i should have sent you some.ive got lots of 7mm.


----------



## ToddJB

HokieKen said:


> View attachment 3858578


Delivery-man for the Wen!

Also, as far as youngest. I'm in my last few months of 39. Still only have 3 back hairs.


----------



## duckmilk

Well, as far as oldest, I turned 69 earlier this month, still have all but one of my teeth.


----------



## Keebler1

Pottz you make the call. Another pour to completely cover the cholla or not. Those may have floated a little although i had them glued down. They are also partialy on top of some wood. It is already 1.25"-1.5" thick


----------



## Keebler1

Looks like bottom cholla floated a little but you should be able to get some cholla in 2 blanks


----------



## pottz

Keebler1 said:


> Pottz you make the call. Another pour to completely cover the cholla or not. Those may have floated a little although i had them glued down. They are also partialy on top of some wood. It is already 1.25"-1.5" thick
> View attachment 3858648


buddy you do what you would do for yourself ok. i trust your judgement.i so much appreciate youe even doing this.


----------



## pottz

ToddJB said:


> Delivery-man for the Wen!
> 
> Also, as far as youngest. I'm in my last few months of 39. Still only have 3 back hairs.


damn kids


----------



## DavePolaschek

Well, I got a spiffy package full of stuff in the mail today! Give me an R, Keebs!


----------



## GR8HUNTER

DavePolaschek said:


> Well, I got a spiffy package full of stuff in the mail today! Give me an R, Keebs!


welcome 2 the SR CLUB Dave 🤪 🤪


----------



## Keebler1

Pottz think ill recast next weekend. You can decide how to drill the blanks and cut them. Depending on the pen kits you may be able to cut them in half and get extra blanks. Not sure how well you will get a full cholla in a blank. Will probably also cast another big one. This is just something I do. Throw something in a mold and cast. What comes out of it may not look the best but still looks different


----------



## pottz

GR8HUNTER said:


> welcome 2 the SR CLUB Dave 🤪 🤪


ill be looking to see if anyone gets the candy i got


----------



## pottz

Keebler1 said:


> Pottz think ill recast next weekend. You can decide how to drill the blanks and cut them. Depending on the pen kits you may be able to cut them in half and get extra blanks. Not sure how well you will get a full cholla in a blank. Will probably also cast another big one. This is just something I do. Throw something in a mold and cast. What comes out of it may not look the best but still looks different


buddy when you ride for free you dont tell the driver,how to drive


----------



## Lazyman

ToddJB said:


> Also, as far as youngest. I'm in my last few months of 39. Still only have 3 back hairs.


Just remember. You are only young once but you can be immature forever.




Keebler1 said:


> I have both hss and carbide. I learned on carbide and periodically attemp hss. One of these days im gonna crash Nathans shop and get him to teach me how to use hss. I know there are plenty of youtube videos but stuff like that i do better learning in person


Come on over. Although, I have been turning so little lately, I almost have to relearn myself each time I do it. 

I kind of hate carbide but I do use them when my technique is lacking or for spots that are hard to reach. Spindle turning with a skew and spindle gouge is a real joy. Nothing better than getting a finish off the skew that looks like it has already been polished. And for bowl turning, getting ribbons like this from really hard live oak really triggers the endorphins in my brain. Worth the 45 seconds to sharpen them. 











.


----------



## HokieKen

I’ve got three more years in the under-50 club. And I only have 3 back hairs too Todd. The rest are just butt hairs that snuck across the border.


----------



## Lazyman

Dang whippersnappers. 

Hey! you kids get off my lawn!


----------



## pottz

HokieKen said:


> I’ve got three more years in the under-50 club. And I only have 3 back hairs too Todd. The rest are just butt hairs that snuck across the border.


TMI kenny


----------



## HokieKen

I spent all weekend framing up a 16’ extension to my sons deck. Six 6x6 posts in 24” round by 24” deep footers, doubled 2x12 beams and 2x10 joists. I feel like one mule has been kicking me in the back and another in the thighs. I’m getting too old for this 💩.

On a good note, even though the Wen track saw had a busted DC connection, it cut the 6x6s to length and hogged out notches in them for the 2x12s without a whole lot of bitchin. It stalled a couple times on the blind, full-depth rip cuts but it got them done. I think I’ll just keep it. The DC connector will work as is.


----------



## builtinbkyn

HokieKen said:


> I’ve got three more years in the under-50 club. And I only have 3 back hairs too Todd. The rest are just butt hairs that snuck across the border.


They probably migrated from top to bottom


----------



## pottz

HokieKen said:


> I spent all weekend framing up a 16’ extension to my sons deck. Six 6x6 posts in 24” round by 24” deep footers, doubled 2x12 beams and 2x10 joists. I feel like one mule has been kicking me in the back and another in the thighs. I’m getting too old for this 💩.
> 
> On a good note, even though the Wen track saw had a busted DC connection, it cut the 6x6s to length and hogged out notches in them for the 2x12s without a whole lot of bitchin. It stalled a couple times on the blind, full-depth rip cuts but it got them done. I think I’ll just keep it. The DC connector will work as is.


duct tape kenny,fixes everything !


----------



## HokieKen

pottz said:


> buddy when you ride for free you dont tell the driver,how to drive


You obviously haven’t met my wife.


----------



## pottz

HokieKen said:


> You obviously haven’t met my wife.


or mine  🤣kenny ive come so close to either making her walk home or me !!!!


----------



## pottz

hey if anyone is interested i posted some kitchen knives i made for my son.man i tell ya since the change views are way doen and comments are way down ! 😢


----------



## Keebler1

Pottz think im gonna leave the block the way it is. Not sure filling it would do any good. Ill ship it out in a week or two


----------



## pottz

Keebler1 said:


> Pottz think im gonna leave the block the way it is. Not sure filling it would do any good. Ill ship it out in a week or two


sounds good buddy thank so much.


----------



## RyanGi

For casting resin, are you guys using a pressure pot or vacuum chamber? Which resin?


----------



## Keebler1

Use a pressure pot for resin. I use either alumilite clear slow, liquid diamonds or stones resin


----------



## pottz

thats my next adventure.so id guess a vacuum chamber to suck out the air and eliminate bubbles or pockets ? why a pressure pot ?


----------



## Keebler1

Youll make a mess with vacuum. Pressure pot at 40 or more pressure i run mine around 58. It shrinks the bubbles so you cant see them


----------



## RyanGi

I’m speaking out of turn, and just from my recent research (not any experience): pressure pots compress any bubbles down until you can’t see them. After the resin cures, you release the pressure and the bubbles stay at that state. The advantage is that it works fast, so resins that set fast can be used in a pressure pot. And it just needs a compressor, which most folks have, 

A vacuum chamber lowers pressure to draw the bubbles out and away but, it takes time and if the resin gets thick too fast the bubbles won’t escape. It also requires a vacuum pump, which some may not have. 

At least, that‘s what I read….I’ll let others who actually have done it speak to the realities….


----------



## Keebler1

Vaccum chamber is for stabilizing and to get air out of silicone but there are several silicone mixes you can buy that dont beed that


----------



## Keebler1

The liquid diamonds and stones resin are long enough times that if you are careful you can get away without a pressure pot.


----------



## RyanGi

Keebs, I’ve only ever used Alumilite Clear (and not for casting, just for inlay pours). Can you compare it to Liquid Diamonds or Stones? Advantages? Disadvantages?


----------



## Keebler1

Alumilite turns the best. I like the color separation i get with acc. Liquid diamonds and stones resin have longer working time around 45min vs 12 for acc. Also demold times are way different. LD is 24 hr demold time and SR is 8 hr demold time. If you keep your shop around 75 or dont beed to pour a lot of different colors/have complicated pour acc is the way to go if not LD or SR is the way to go. Also liquid diamonds is 2:1 ratio by weight or volume, SR is 1:1 by volume and acc is 1:1 by weight. I prefer the weight measurement over volume. Easier for me to get the ratio correct


----------



## Keebler1

Personally for inlays I would be using an epoxy like liquid diamonds or stones resin so the air bubbles will escape unless you can put the piece in a pressure pot


----------



## Keebler1

Also liquid diamonds is fda compliant for food contact once fully cured. Acc isnt and im not sure about stones resin


----------



## RyanGi

Pretty much all the inlays I’ve done to this point have been to a satin finish so any bubbles don’t really show up anyway. I pass a torch over it several times while the ACC sets, which seams to do a really good job…and it’s always colored with mica so that probably plays into it since it’s opaque. Obviously casting for turning would/could be different, hence the query.


----------



## Keebler1

If it isnt deep and you are careful with pouring and mixing you could get away with no bunbles. I have gone out in the shop to pour a block for turning with 5 colors. By the time i got all the colors mixed temps were at 115 degrees or so and it was nowhere near 12 min since i started.


----------



## RyanGi

Define deep…?


----------



## pottz

Keebler1 said:


> If it isnt deep and you are careful with pouring and mixing you could get away with no bunbles. I have gone out in the shop to pour a block for turning with 5 colors. By the time i got all the colors mixed temps were at 115 degrees or so and it was nowhere near 12 min since i started.


yeah ive poured resin in molds,id get three blanks from.never had an issue with voids or bubbles. dave is sending me some cholla and thats what im gonna do.


----------



## pottz

RyanGi said:


> Define deep…?


the dive end of the pool 🤣


----------



## Keebler1

I wouldnt go any deeper than 1/4" and expect not to get bubbles but that also comes from no a/c in my shop and texas heat


----------



## RyanGi

Hmmm…ok.


----------



## DavePolaschek

When I did my cholla and epoxy bowls, I was pouring a total of 2 inches thick. I did the pours about 1/2-3/4 inch thick, which was thick enough that I would get bubbles. I’m pondering a pressure pot, but I’ll likely try the next bowl with thinner pours and see how that goes. With cholla, the big snag is the pores in the cholla canes can trap bubbles, so I try to tip them and pour different layers at different angles and bang on things to dislodge as many air bubbles as I can. And you have to be careful with the torch so’s not to scorch the cholla or set it on fire as you’re popping any bubbles (DAMHIKT).

The vacuum chamber is for stabilizing punky or spalted wood with acrylic resin. I use cactus juice because it’s always worked well for me. Open time is infinite, so I’ll pull vacuum for overnight on a lot of stuff. Resin doesn’t really enter the wood* until you put it all back under pressure, so it’s easy enough to just pull vacuum until there are no more bubbles coming out of the wood, unless you screw up and don’t have enough resin to cover.

Main constraints on cactus juice are that the wood needs to be absolutely dry (overnight at 220F will take care of that for pieces up to an inch thick - add 8 hours or more for 3-4 inch thick pieces) and then you need to bake it long enough to set it all the way through afterwards (thicker pieces are again problematic - I mostly stick to no more than an inch or two thick for that reason).

* I also will soak really punky wood in a cup of resin about half the depth of the length of the piece with one dye and no vacuum, then bake to set, then soak with a different color dyed resin under vacuum and completely submerged. For punky wood, the first soak will pull dyed resin up the capillaries in the wood. The second soak will *mostly *fill all the rest of the wood, but you’ll likely have a few voids that got no resin. But you get cool mixtures of the two colors, based on where the wood was more rotten. Definitely fun to experiment with. I’d point you to the blog I did on that, but they ruined the blogs here, so….



















That third pair of pieces was soaked once from each end, just letting capillary action do its thing (in blue and red resin), then a third time in black resin under vacuum, which I should’ve kept under vacuum longer.

If y’all have questions about using cactus juice, let me know. I’m hoping this winter I’ll get my stabilizing rig set up again after the move to NM, but I hoped that last winter, too.


----------



## Lazyman

Dave, have you tried coating the cholla with something before you cast it in a mold? That can help seal the surface so that bubbles cannot escape. I've done that a couple of times when filling rough voids and it is has been pretty effective for me.


----------



## HokieKen

Since I ended up not having a single minute to work on my project this weekend and I'm leaving Thursday to hop on a cruise ship, I'lll most likely end up shipping on Monday, 11/14 instead of Saturday the 12th. Just a heads up Keebs. I'll ship it 2-day though so it'll get there in plenty of time. If I dropped it off Saturday, it would just sit in the PO until Monday morning anyway.


----------



## DavePolaschek

I haven’t, Nathan. I think I would need a wetting agent so that the epoxy would stick to the cholla better, getting into the nooks and crannies, rather than forming a bubble on the edge of a narrow void in the cholla. Thinner epoxy and working faster probably would both be good, too. But looking into it, a lot of the wetting agents that would work are things like bisphenol-a, which I’m pretty sure I don’t want to be playing with. Can’t find what cholla wood’s critical surface energy is, but maybe I’ll just try cleaning it better next time, which will help as long as i don’t have any cleaner left when I pour the epoxy.


----------



## RyanGi

Great info from your experiences Dave! Thanks!


----------



## Keebler1

Dave what epoxy are you using?


----------



## Lazyman

The last few times, I just brushed on a light coat of epoxy to seal the surface and fill some of the small voids where the air usually escapes from. Worked very well.


----------



## ToddJB

In chasing this last little bit of the tip of the blade, I've jacked up the rest of my profile geometry. Dang it. This knife was my original idea for this swap, but ended up making 3 other items completely, and coming back to this one. I was hoping to send all 4, but I'm not confident I'll be sending this one along. Maybe I'll still throw it in as proof I'm not actually perfect ;⁠-⁠)


----------



## DavePolaschek

Keebler1 said:


> Dave what epoxy are you using?


I’m mostly using system three, but I’ve tried a couple other brands that weren’t significantly better.


----------



## Keebler1

Whats the working time and demold time on system 3? Also is it an epoxy, poltester, or polyurethane resin?


----------



## DavePolaschek

It’s an epoxy. They have three hardeners, and I generally use the fast, which is about 15 minutes of working time. I demold after 24. But it’s a general purpose epoxy, rather than one of the thin ones designed for pouring. They also make their RiverCast, which is thinner, but a little too thin for my tastes.


----------



## Keebler1

The thinner epoxy would help bubbles escape better and would fill the cholla easier I would think.


----------



## DavePolaschek

Yes it would. But I’ve had problems with the thinner stuff taking too long to set (it has a much longer open time), and also it’s not very good for the other things I use epoxy for, such as gluing knife scales to knife tangs.


----------



## Keebler1

I just use regular 2 part epoxy for gluing things not the stuff i make blanks with that stuff is too expensive for that


----------



## EricFai

Keebler, you can mark me as received. Got some beautiful surprises delivered today. Puts my swap item to shame.


----------



## pottz

got a nice box of variuos size cholla from my good friend and yours dave.thank you buddy.


----------



## DavePolaschek

A small flat-rate isn’t a whole lot, but once you decide which size works for you, I can send some more. Or stop by and harvest a carload. My neighbors will be happy to contribute, too. ;-)


----------



## pottz

DavePolaschek said:


> A small flat-rate isn’t a whole lot, but once you decide which size works for you, I can send some more. Or stop by and harvest a carload. My neighbors will be happy to contribute, too. ;-)


im good for now bud. ive got a little somethin for you ill send tomorrow.🎁😎


----------



## GR8HUNTER

Sander set up and belt storage and scroll saw blades fit good in these bottles 😎 😎 😎


----------



## pottz

ive got that same rikon sander,love it for doing s,mall parts.


----------



## RyanGi

Looks great Tony! Nice setup.


----------



## RyanGi

Keebs, you can give me an ‘S’. Just snuck in before they closed!


----------



## GR8HUNTER

RyanGi said:


> Keebs, you can give me an ‘S’. Just snuck in before they closed!


welcome 2 the S R Club Ryan 🤪


----------



## pottz

oh man the excitement swap reveal day is building 😁


----------



## RyanGi

I was pretty happy with how things ended up. Hopefully the recipient enjoys! I sent some goodies along too, so that’ll make up for it…

I also just posted a ‘journal’ (old-style Blog?) about the buffing wheels I ended up getting during this swap. Not just for the swap, but for a couple other things I was working on. As always, with no extra room in the shop, I was trying to make tools multi-task. I’m pretty happy with that outcome too! You can read it here  if you’re so inclined. Grab a beer first…it’s a bit wordy…


----------



## EricFai

Good setup Tony. 

Another coat of finish put on my swap item this evening, I'll see how that turns out tomorrow. Then spent a little time cleaning up the old jointer I picked up a few weeks ago. Used mineral spirits with steel wool and some 220 grit, got all the crud off and they are smooth, I'll wipe them down with some lacqure thinner and wax them. Debating on buying a set of blades or try my hand at sharpening.


----------



## duckmilk

What is the brand of the jointer Eric? I was given an old Delta Homecraft many years ago and was able to find a source for new blades plus sharpening the old blades, so now I have a set of both new and sharpened ones.
I messed up the settings for coplanar for the infeed and outfeed tables and haven't used it for several years now 😔


----------



## EricFai

Duck, it a 80 or 81 Craftsman 6-1/8" jointer. I have it cleaned up, tables waxed and set level with each other, fence set at proper stop angles 90*and 45*. I looked around at a couple of stores today, nothing in stock, I have found the knifes on Amazon for $20. I am going to try and do a sharpening first, just not very good at it, need to learn. Thanks for the offer.


----------



## duckmilk

I was actually given 2 Delta Homecraft machines from the same guy, the other was a shaper. They were missing a couple of unimportant parts, but I called Delta (again, this was many years ago). He asked for a model number, there were none to give him I said, just serial numbers. He took them down and mailed me exploded diagrams and parts numbers. I found the parts needed and called back. They still had them in stock and sent them. I was amazed to say the least.


----------



## HokieKen

Teaserin’


----------



## ToddJB

HokieKen said:


> View attachment 3859156
> 
> Teaserin’


Parts of me resemble this pic after I enjoy some Taco Bell.


----------



## HokieKen

Yeah but can you get things hard after Taco Bell?

Here’s my high-dollar tempering oven.


----------



## ToddJB

HokieKen said:


> Yeah but can you get things hard after Taco Bell?
> 
> Here’s my high-dollar tempering oven.
> View attachment 3859158


You one of them hipsters using vintage machinery as a toaster oven stand?


----------



## pottz

HokieKen said:


> Yeah but can you get things hard after Taco Bell?
> 
> Here’s my high-dollar tempering oven.
> View attachment 3859158


so your saying eating taco bell gets you hard ?   always showin off you high dollar shop equipment.i can only dream of having something like that kenny😁


----------



## duckmilk

I use a similar toaster oven as well Todd. ( or the kitchen oven when she isn't around)
Kenny, I have to re-line my forge as soon as I finish the project I'm working on. You have seen pictures of the old homemade one when I forged the holdfast for Poobah. The kaowool is falling apart and the floor refactory has cracks in it. That kaowool is nothing you want to be breathing into your lungs. I'll plaster it with refactory on the surface to contain all of the nasty fibers.
You might want to consider that for yours. I'll have some left over if you decide you want it.


----------



## pottz

anyone see or talk to (therealsteven) lately ? i know he's not happy with this new world were in, hopefully not gone for good !


----------



## HokieKen

ToddJB said:


> You one of them hipsters using vintage machinery as a toaster oven stand?


Better than IKEA! Also the only horizontal space in the shop that’s large and empty enough for me to sit it down…




duckmilk said:


> I use a similar toaster oven as well Todd. ( or the kitchen oven when she isn't around)
> Kenny, I have to re-line my forge as soon as I finish the project I'm working on. You have seen pictures of the old homemade one when I forged the holdfast for Poobah. The kaowool is falling apart and the floor refactory has cracks in it. That kaowool is nothing you want to be breathing into your lungs. I'll plaster it with refactory on the surface to contain all of the nasty fibers.
> You might want to consider that for yours. I'll have some left over if you decide you want it.


Thanks Duck but a larger forge is on the short list so no need to spend any effort on this one. It’s pushing the limit for me to evenly heat a 6” blade in this one and that’s been a limitation on several occassions. I hadn’t thought about breathing the fibers from the wool though. Good info. I’ll put my respirator on next time.


----------



## Keebler1

Forget what this type forge is called but brian house talks about getting one on the work for it podcast. It doesnt use fire to heat the metal but uses metal coils that you stick the metal in and it heats the steel up a lot faster than a normal forge.

I believe it is called an indiction forge. Might be worth looking into


----------



## RyanGi

Induction forge


----------



## Keebler1

Has anyone heard from woodendreams lately?


----------



## GR8HUNTER

Keebler1 said:


> Has anyone heard from woodendreams lately?


i miss so much in this new bar 🥺 🥺


----------



## DavePolaschek

Keebler1 said:


> Has anyone heard from woodendreams lately?


I think I saw him since the conversion, but I don’t have a link to his profile to check for sure. I need to go through the HPOYD Secret Santa list one of these days and check on everyone there, but that’s another one where I need a round tuit.

Beautiful sky this morning.


----------



## pottz

Keebler1 said:


> Has anyone heard from woodendreams lately?


there seems to be a few i know of missing these days or just posting a whole lot less. i think some have had it with this new format.


----------



## HokieKen

Keebler1 said:


> Has anyone heard from woodendreams lately?


He posted on 10/29 in this thread.


----------



## Keebler1

Thanks Kenny I missed that. The peeson sending him his swap item hadnt seen him post and wanted to make sure he was good to send to him


----------



## HokieKen

If anyone is shipping to me, I’ll be out of town until next Friday. I put a hold on the mail and my son will stop by a few times to check for UPS or Fedex packages and put them inside. Just didn’t want anybody worried because I didn’t acknowledge reciept of their package😉

We’retaking a late flight to Tampa tonight then hopping a cruise ship for Cozumel and some other Carribean island. Personally, I couldn’t care less about the islands but the wife likes the beaches. Cozumel is cool though because I enjoy the Mayan stuff and sampling the cuisine😎


----------



## therealSteveN

ToddJB said:


> Parts of me resemble this pic after I enjoy some Taco Bell.



Taco Hell, gonna run for the terlit. DING!!!

Checkin in, still making knives, playing with sheaths, and building a few Moxon vise/benches. All while fighting off a cold/sinus rebellion. I just get good, go out there, and then I am sneezing and my nose is drooling again. I'm taking it as proof that my respiratory filtration is leaky, so I'm going hardcore.


----------



## therealSteveN

Goofy software? Thought I just added it once. I think it doesn't like me.


----------



## pottz

therealSteveN said:


> Taco Hell, gonna run for the terlit. DING!!!
> 
> Checkin in, still making knives, playing with sheaths, and building a few Moxon vise/benches. All while fighting off a cold/sinus rebellion. I just get good, go out there, and then I am sneezing and my nose is drooling again. I'm taking it as proof that my respiratory filtration is leaky, so I'm going hardcore.
> 
> View attachment 3859208
> View attachment 3859208
> View attachment 3859208


ok i was wondering what had happened to you. you check if it's covid,seems to be just like a bad cold for most people.


----------



## EricFai

Good to hear from you there, the respirator may or may not help with the leakiness. Hope your feeling better soon.

I boxed up my package, so I'll get it out soon as I can.


----------



## pottz

GETTING CLOSE TO THE FINAL REVEALS GUYS,EXCITEMENT BUILDS !!!!


----------



## EricFai

I think the leader of the pack should reveal first. Or the last guy to ship.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

EricFai said:


> I think the leader of the pack should reveal first. Or the last guy to ship.


im going to be first cause im going to do it day early 🤣 🤣 🤣 🤣


----------



## pottz

GR8HUNTER said:


> im going to be first cause im going to do it day early 🤣 🤣 🤣 🤣


HEY NO CHEATING


----------



## ToddJB

therealSteveN said:


> Taco Hell, gonna run for the terlit. DING!!!
> 
> Checkin in, still making knives, playing with sheaths, and building a few Moxon vise/benches. All while fighting off a cold/sinus rebellion. I just get good, go out there, and then I am sneezing and my nose is drooling again. I'm taking it as proof that my respiratory filtration is leaky, so I'm going hardcore.
> 
> View attachment 3859208
> View attachment 3859208
> View attachment 3859208


I was having all sorts of problems. Between my beard and glasses I couldn't find anything that sealed and didn't fog. I went with this:









TREND AIR/PRO/D1 Airshield and Visor Pack AIR/P/3C - - Amazon.com


TREND AIR/PRO/D1 Airshield and Visor Pack AIR/P/3C - - Amazon.com



www.amazon.com






Very happy. Though it's an investment


----------



## WoodenDreams

Keebler1 said:


> Thanks Kenny I missed that. The peeson sending him his swap item hadnt seen him post and wanted to make sure he was good to send to him


I've been out of town a lot. Much more than I want to be. As of now, I have one item done and ready to ship, but wanted to finish the remaining items. Can ship all by the 9th or 10th.


----------



## WoodenDreams

WoodenDreams said:


> I've been out of town a lot. Much more than I want to be. As of now, I have one item done and ready to ship, but wanted to finish the remaining items. Can ship all by the 9th or 10th.


I guess I'm the poor sap holding things back this time.


----------



## EricFai

WoodenDreams, I just finished mine yesterday, so your not holding anything up.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

pottz said:


> HEY NO CHEATING


worst that could happen is i get banned from next swap which is segmented turning which is ok i cant do seg turning LMAO 🤣 🤣 🤣


----------



## Keebler1

Sure you can Tony. Glue wood together till they get thick enough to make a bowl or something out of then turn it. I think that would be ok


----------



## Keebler1

Whoever wanted to run the swgmented turning swap next year send me a PM


----------



## HokieKen

You aren’t holding anything up Woodendreams. I’ll be pushing the deadline😉


----------



## Keebler1

I might ship this weekend. I may wait till next. Depends on if I feel like boxing everything up tonight.


----------



## ToddJB

I could have been wrapped up awhile ago, but I can't stop tinkering and adding. I just started something a couple days ago that I feel like is The Dude's rug - bringing the whole project together. Now I have to push to get it done.


----------



## WoodenDreams

I've been making some segmented Urns for a local funeral home. A newbie to segmented turning. So, it takes me longer to do.


----------



## EricFai

Sounds like I might have another taker for a turning swap. The more the merrier. Looking at segments too.


----------



## WoodenDreams

If I get banned for not chatting enough, This would free up time for other things to get done. The couple swaps I've done in the past were all fun to do though.


----------



## EricFai

I would not ban you, may check on you here and there ti make sure things are good. I want to get some of the awesome turners involved in this one. Look for a posting before the reveal of this swap.


----------



## Lazyman

I have never done a pure segmented bowl but my Ringmaster allows me to achieve the same thing in a slightly different way. If that fits within the guidelines I will likely join.


----------



## EricFai

A ringmaster would apply, at least in my book.


----------



## pottz

EricFai said:


> I would not ban you, may check on you here and there ti make sure things are good. I want to get some of the awesome turners involved in this one. Look for a posting before the reveal of this swap.


well leaves me out  😁


----------



## Keebler1

There is always the Pottz exception you are forgetting about Pottz so you are in


----------



## RyanGi

You’d be way ahead of me. I’ve never made a segmented bowl. But I’m willing to try!!


----------



## northwoodsman

Hey Keebs are you getting any of this lovely weather up by you? I'm just getting a lot of rain off and on down here. The weather radio keeps going off. The latest was NE Denton County and NW Collin County with 60 mph winds and golf ball sized hail. It's all calm at the moment here.


----------



## pottz

Keebler1 said:


> There is always the Pottz exception you are forgetting about Pottz so you are in


here we go with that high pressure used car salesman tactic again !!!!!!
these swaps are worse than a time share  🤣


----------



## duckmilk

northwoodsman said:


> Hey Keebs are you getting any of this lovely weather up by you? I'm just getting a lot of rain off and on down here. The weather radio keeps going off. The latest was NE Denton County and NW Collin County with 60 mph winds and golf ball sized hail. It's all calm at the moment here.


I'm not Keebs  but I'm in far SE Cooke County. The rain stopped about 40 minutes ago, the wind was pretty strong but has now calmed down to about 10 - 15 mph.

Edit: Not sure where you are but just watched the weather. There was or is a confirmed tornado around Sulphur Springs. Rockwall area is under a tornado watch. Several more watches spreading SSE of Sulphur Springs.


----------



## northwoodsman

duckmilk said:


> I'm not Keebs  but I'm in far SE Cooke County. The rain stopped about 40 minutes ago, the wind was pretty strong but has now calmed down to about 10 - 15 mph.


Hey Duckmilk, I hope all is okay for you. I think we are on round 6 or 7 now just this afternoon. Just when they get past us on radar a new one pops up completely out of nowhere. We could use the rain but they are only lasting a few minutes at a time. I'd like to see Texoma get at least another foot or so of water in it. EDIT: Now I see Collin County (SE) has a Tornado Warning just issued. Tornadoes confirmed east of here over by Sulphur Springs.


----------



## duckmilk

I'm seeing bits of blue sky and peeks of sun to the west now.


----------



## Keebler1

I had a delivery in houston last night and instead of running me up to sherman empty dispatch had me take an empty trailer to center then bobtail to sherman. Instead of going across 20 to 635 i jumped off and took 69 up. I wanna say it was south of greenville i ran into heavy rain and some hail. Rain was heavy enough I slowed to 45 in a 70. Picked up another bout of just rain north of greenville. Now in sherman no rain but high winds


----------



## Lazyman

We got a little under 2" of rain where I am. Worst part is that the power went out a couple of times, It was so dark outside there was pretty much nothing I could do so I just took a nap.


----------



## Keebler1

Got my swap item today. Hopefully I can get mine packed this weekend so it can be dropped off next week


----------



## HokieKen

Tampa is hot. Good food and beer and some cool places to see though. Had a hot lobster roll. It may be better than the traditional NE cold kind. Just steamed lobster with butter on a fresh roll😎


----------



## EricFai

Show off Kenny, but enjoy your vacation, as you already are.


----------



## BigShooter

Things that should never be said because they can't be true:

I had a Guinness in New Jersey better than one in Ireland
I had smoked brisket in California better than one in Texas
I had a lobster roll in Tampa better than Maine

Sorry Ken but....
Nothing beats a Maine lobster roll eaten at 7pm made from a lobster that was swimming at 3pm that day. 





HokieKen said:


> Tampa is hot. Good food and beer and some cool places to see though. Had a hot lobster roll. It may be better than the traditional NE cold kind. Just steamed lobster with butter on a fresh roll😎
> View attachment 3859329


----------



## EarlS

About the only thing that gets you banned from swaps is not sending your item and not letting the group know that you can't get it sent out. There have been several participants that had to drop out late in the swap but as long as they let the group know it was OK. We all know life happens.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

BigShooter said:


> Things that should never be said because they can't be true:
> 
> I had a Guinness in New Jersey better than one in Ireland
> I had smoked brisket in California better than one in Texas
> I had a lobster roll in Tampa better than Maine
> 
> Sorry Ken but....
> Nothing beats a Maine lobster roll eaten at 7pm made from a lobster that was swimming at 3pm that day.


i have a friend that lives near cork Ireland and he tells me the Guinness is different there compared to up north Ireland where they make it


----------



## Keebler1

Those storms yesterday produced some tornados around idabel ok and a couple other areas in texas. As of this morning they were saying 156 houses damaged and 51 destroyed in idabel


----------



## EricFai

Wow, I heard about the tornados on the news here today. did not realize it was that bad.


----------



## EricFai

Next Swap is Posted.









Turning Swap 2023


It's time again for another swap. KEEBLER1 is finishing up with the Knife Swap 2022 now. Knife Swap 2022 (A great time had by all involved check it out if you haven’t) The question was asked about another Swap, and there are some takers. In regular standing, I have completely ripped off the...




www.lumberjocks.com





Ready for Y'all to sign Up. I know you want to so lets have some more fun in the Shop.


----------



## RyanGi

This sucks Eric. That post didn’t show up in any of my feeds. Not under New, no flag when it was posted, nothing. I’m glad you posted it here. Weak sauce…


----------



## Keebler1

I showed my wife my goodies from thus swap and the knife I planned on being my everyday carry she wanted. Luckily for me my sender engraved Keebler in it so she picked a different knife


----------



## GR8HUNTER

Keebler1 said:


> I showed my wife my goodies from thus swap and the knife I planned on being my everyday carry she wanted. Luckily for me my sender engraved Keebler in it so she picked a different knife


that is why we personalize items LMAO 🤣 😎


----------



## pottz

in case you never see me again let me just say it's been a blast with the time ive had here.for those of you that know me know i dont play games.im straight forward in what i say and do.ive been under a lot of scrutiny lately shall i say. maybe because they dont like to here honest comments? whatever i dont change what i do and say for anyones agenda.you either love me or lose me ! so for those that love i hope to see you tomorrow,for those that dont,i dont care


----------



## Lazyman

I don't know Pottz. Seems to me like you were _playing a game of chicken_ with that last thread you started by daring them to ban you and calling someone stupid because they dared to disagree with you.


----------



## pottz

i wasn't daring them to ban me but i could get banned because i speak my mind,seems they dont like that here. and i just said it makes one look stupid,i didn't call him that-lol.


----------



## Lazyman

pottz said:


> i wasn't daring them to ban me but i could get banned because i speak my mind,seems they dont like that here. and i just said it makes one look stupid,i didn't call him that-lol.


If I were them, I would interpret the first statement of your screed as "I dare you to ban me" (except with that the capital I).


----------



## pottz

Lazyman said:


> If I were them, I would interpret the first statement of your screed as "I dare you to ban me" (except with that the capital I).


they can interpret it anyway they want.ive been warned so many times for stuff that didn't even make sense.im not the only one pissed off here.look at the feedback forum,constant complaints.i was just on it and most are now saying just shut it down because nothing is really getting answered.i dont think this place will ever be what it was sadly.but there are a lot of great people here,at least for awhile.some of my friends have already left and more are either going to or have cut way back posting.i said what i wanted and vented so where it goes i dont know.


----------



## HokieKen

Don’t do it pottz. I’ve been offline so I don’t know exactly what y’all are talking about but, we don’t want to loose you around here. We all have to bite our tounges now and then. Bit it and move on buddy😉

Big Shooter, you are correct. Tampa lobster isn’t fresh like NE lobster. I recend my comment and revise it as follows: “I’d like to try a hot lobster roll in Maine” 😋


----------



## HokieKen

It’s a rough Monday…


----------



## DavePolaschek

I epoxied one of the two cholla and resin blanks Keebs sent me onto another knife yesterday. Roughed the handle on the bandsaw this morning, and I’ll be shaping it with rasps over the next few days. Hopefully I’ll have it done before reveal day. That’s coming up one of these days, right?


----------



## Keebler1

Dave that knife you put that blank i sent you on was that a hidden tang knife?


----------



## DavePolaschek

Keebler1 said:


> Dave that knife you put that blank i sent you on was that a hidden tang knife?


Yep. I’ll have pictures in a day or two if all goes well, but it was a white ceramic santoku I got on clearance from Woodcraft back before we moved from Minnesota.


----------



## EricFai

Keebler, you can marked me as shipped, deliver is scheduled for Monday, so they say.


----------



## DavePolaschek

Well, one of our swappers went and got hisself banned. That’s going to put a kink in reveals day.

Edited to add: interesting, when someone gets banned, they disappear from your news feed. Unperson. Thrown down the memory hole.


----------



## EricFai

Yep, he will be back, and his reveal will be late. Chatted through an e-mail, and that was part of his reply, Said Dec 7th, so he is in lockup for a month. So we shall see what happens.


----------



## RyanGi

Oh Pottzy. I wonder how the food is in LJ jail?


----------



## Lazyman

He's got the real Potz's Patio to chill in so he will be fine.


----------



## EricFai

Yea, soaking up the Sun.


----------



## EricFai

Yep, he's heartbroken over missing the reveal.


----------



## EricFai

This is odd, I follow this thread, and I'm not getting the alerts all the time. I see the new comments when I check the new feed..


----------



## Lazyman

I've noticed that too, Eric. Doesn't happen all the time but sometimes I see alerts and other times I will find way down in the New list a single line. When I check it, there are often several messages several hours old.


----------



## EricFai

Yep, and I just posted over on the Fourm Feedback as a Bug. 

Funny, this time it showed an Alert, go figure. I even went back up and made sure that I had Following checked.


----------



## Lazyman

One theory is that if someone quotes, replies or uses a like on one of your comments for example, it seems to reset it for a while.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

i am in no way joining the next swap just curious what is the best seg sled and easiest to make ?


----------



## EricFai

Come on Tony, you know you want to. The one I attached above is straight forward and was easy. I applied some paste wax to the bottom the other day, so now it slides nicely. I also made a jig to set the length of the segments and a zero-clearance plate with a tapered block glued to the top to allow the pieces to slide down and out of the way of the blade. The set works really nice.

Also Blocklayer.com has a segment calculator to determine the size of the segments with the ratio of the number in a layer.


----------



## recycle1943

GR8HUNTER said:


> i am in no way joining the next swap just curious what is the best seg sled and easiest to make ?


here ya go - all it takes is a single check



INCRA TOOLS :: Miter Gauges :: Miter Sleds


----------



## ToddJB

Aaaannddd mark me down as shipped.


----------



## RyanGi

I love INCRA’s miter gauges. So easy, so accurate.


----------



## RyanGi

Tony I think you should give it a shot! I’m pretty sure I’m gonna blow this one a time or two, but with the extra lead time I’m hoping I’ll be able to get something together worth the time. Go for it!


----------



## HokieKen

Well Tropical Storm Nicole got me an extra day at sea. Unfortunately she also made me loose a shop day and miss my flight home. So I’m gonna miss ship date. Will ship overnight next week and be sure it gets there before reveals. Sorry fellas.

Luckily I got myself a Cuban and some artisan Tequilla to ease my angst😎


----------



## Keebler1

Kenny we can always postpone a week if you think you can get back and ship like you normally would. Just let me know what yall think


----------



## EricFai

Keebler, I agree with you give Kenny a chance instead of shipping overnight. Afterall He's on vacation and got trapped.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

recycle1943 said:


> here ya go - all it takes is a single check
> 
> 
> 
> INCRA TOOLS :: Miter Gauges :: Miter Sleds


does that check say Dick anywhere on it 🤣 🤣 

maybe if we push it back a week pottz might be back 😎


----------



## GR8HUNTER

EricFai said:


> Come on Tony, you know you want to. The one I attached above is straight forward and was easy. I applied some paste wax to the bottom the other day, so now it slides nicely. I also made a jig to set the length of the segments and a zero-clearance plate with a tapered block glued to the top to allow the pieces to slide down and out of the way of the blade. The set works really nice.
> 
> Also Blocklayer.com has a segment calculator to determine the size of the segments with the ratio of the number in a layer.


attached above ? 🥺


----------



## EricFai

GR8HUNTER said:


> attached above ? 🥺


Oh, I'm on the wrong post, I placed a link in the Turning Swap 2023 post. Sorry.

But here is.








Wedgie Sled


EricFai's Project




www.lumberjocks.com


----------



## duckmilk

EricFai said:


> Oh, I'm on the wrong post, I placed a link in the Turning Swap 2023 post. Sorry.
> 
> Eric, did someone give you a wedgie while you were trying to post?


----------



## HokieKen

Up to y’all. I’m fine either way.


----------



## HokieKen

I will have time to finish up the “bonus” with an extra week though so if nobody would feel slighted, that sounds good to me!


----------



## DavePolaschek

No real hurry here. My stuff was delivered, but I suspect my recipient won’t be revealing on time…


----------



## Keebler1

Ok ship date and reveal date pushed back 1 week. Will update the swap post tomorrow


----------



## ToddJB

I've never been over a week early to ship anything in my life. This is the best news I've gotten all day. Thanks, Keebs


----------



## RyanGi

Keebs, will you update the dates on the first page of this thread to reflect the change? I don’t want to screw it up!


----------



## WoodenDreams

Keener got a soft spot for extras. No problem here.


----------



## WoodenDreams

WoodenDreams said:


> Keener got a soft spot for extras. No problem here.


I left for Minnesota yesterday morning. Was supposed to be back home tonight. Got caught in a freezing rain/ winter storm. I'm sitting at a rest area on the interstate. Way too slick out there to keep driving. Bad thing is I'm only 110 miles from home. or 15 miles from 2 Truck stops. Here for the night. This winter storm is supposed to last til 6pm tomorrow. Also supposed to snow with this tonight. I hope the salt shakers are our in the morning, or I here awhile.


----------



## Keebler1

Before i change the dates if we move back a week that puts reveals the friday or saturday after Thanksgiving. Will that work for yall?


----------



## GR8HUNTER

Keebler1 said:


> Before i change the dates if we move back a week that puts reveals the friday or saturday after Thanksgiving. Will that work for yall?


works for me JUST DO IT LOL 🤣 🤣 🤣


----------



## DavePolaschek

Works for me too. We’re not going anywhere for thanksgiving other than to the grocery store, hopefully not at the last minute.


----------



## Keebler1

Ok dates changed


----------



## HokieKen

Gracious fellas. Weather is an a-hole here off the Florida coast. Looks like best case is we get off the boat tomorrow morning and hope we can find a flight home the same day. I’m hoping not to be spending the weekend on a tossing boat or in a hotel in hurricane-battered Florida…


----------



## HokieKen

Wooden dreams, be safe man! I’ll take a rainy cruise ship over an icy rest stop🙁


----------



## Keebler1

Nathan. Duck. Found a tool to add to your shops.


----------



## duckmilk

Thanks, 12 years ago I would've jumped on that Keebs, the 12" blade would have been a great addition.


----------



## ToddJB

I love them DeWalt RAS saws. Just finished a resto on a 10" GWI 



















and I have a 14" GA in the wings ready to be restored.


----------



## Keebler1

If I had the room I would buy it. I know the guy selling it so could probably talk him down some but the shop is full


----------



## EricFai

Nice restoration Todd.


----------



## Lazyman

I would love to have a RAS but you've seen my shop. I am at the point that for something to come in, something has to go out.


----------



## RyanGi

Nathan I’m the exact same way, unfortunately. An RAS does seem like it would be a really good tool, but it it also takes up a lot of room and I don’t feel like I could imbed it into my shop in a way to save space.


----------



## Lazyman

Of course my wood hoard is the my biggest problem. I did go through and organize the turning blanks that I have picked mostly at estate sales a few days ago. I need to spend more time turning.










After I did that I made the problem worse by cutting some trash pile pickups into blanks for turning and other projects.

















I have a serious problem.


----------



## EricFai

I just picked u a used one a few weeks ago, had to relace the old used miter saw, and it fit into the same space on my bench. I have it hooked up to the DC now, made a cone to place in back and it works fairly well.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

right done now left 🥺 🥺


----------



## RyanGi

Nathan, I’m jealous you found blanks at an estate sale! All I ever find is old socks, MDF furniture and kitchen utensils.


----------



## Keebler1

Nathan wont admit it but I think he has the inside track on estate sales in the area from someone. He comes away with awesome stuff cheaper than it should be


----------



## duckmilk

Nathan, I always thought you might have a problem and now you have confirmed that suspicion. 

Dang Tony, new surgery?


----------



## Keebler1

He still has one good hand he can still participate in the turning swap


----------



## GR8HUNTER

duckmilk said:


> Nathan, I always thought you might have a problem and now you have confirmed that suspicion.
> 
> Dang Tony, new surgery?


YES tired of sleeping hands for year so fixed carpel tunnel left is next but theres a bad nerve in elbow on left 🥺 🥺


----------



## duckmilk

FYI: For those of you interested in forging your blades (Kenny and others) I had posted some info earlier about Robb Gunter's super quench about hardening mild steel. I made a spring for my other leg vise out of mild steel. Used his recipe, quenched it in the brine solution and rinsed it in fresh water. I did the file test on it and the file just skated across it, didn't try to bite at all. Put it in the toaster oven at 400* for an hour, time is not up yet. I'll be interested to see if it is actually springy.
I'll be gone for 4 days so the test will have to wait till then. I'll re-post that info if anyone is interested.
See ya in 4 days!


----------



## EricFai

Wishing you best Tony, and a speedy recovery.


----------



## DavePolaschek

Hope they get you fixed up soon, Tony.

Safe travels, Duck! Interested to hear how it works out.


----------



## therealSteveN

pottz said:


> ok i was wondering what had happened to you. you check if it's covid,seems to be just like a bad cold for most people.


Better now. I used to take Phenylephrine daily, and they didn't do much if anything. Turned out my normal meds almost all have the side effect of runny nose, so that was what I used to suffer from, and the Phenylephrine doesn't do much for that. However if it's allergies, then it works like a charm. As soon as i tried some symptoms stopped. Plus I had no fever, or other hard Covid symptoms, which you would have even if mild.


----------



## therealSteveN

Tony best to you on quick healing, and back to regular living. 

I bet you never gave a thought to wiping with the wrong hand BEFORE surgery, but it became apparent it WAS gonna be an issue AFTER surgery. I would live with pain and sleepy hands forever just based on that thought alone. Absolutely no elective surgeries on my dominant hand, ever!!!


----------



## therealSteveN

Mailman dropped off my package today. I'm betting I post the most colorful swap items. A box of total coolness 

I have mine ready to ship, but having an extra week to go to the post orfice is always a good thing, so it works for me too.

Travel well Duck.

Kenny don't get grogged, and fall off that damn boat.


----------



## Lazyman

RyanGi said:


> Nathan, I’m jealous you found blanks at an estate sale! All I ever find is old socks, MDF furniture and kitchen utensils.


Yeah, I suck! I admit it freely.
My wife is always searching for garage and estate sales and she alerts me when she spots a good sale. She is actually a master at finding them. A bunch of the really nice blanks I picked up at an estate sale early this year. The guy was not only a turner but he taught turning and he also did demos for Easy Wood Tools. A lot of his turning blanks still had Rockler and Woodcraft price tags on them but were probably 10 years old or more based upon the condition of the tags so the prices were already much lower than they are now and they priced them at half the price tag for the sale. Anything that was not marked was even cheaper. I am not a pen turner but I probably could have gotten enough pen blanks to never have to buy them again. There was literally an entire bedroom in the house that had nothing but shelves and shelves of pen blanks. I got a couple of really nice tools from him as well, including a new in box Veritas 112 Scraper plane ... for $25. I picked up a couple of turning tools for pennies on the dollar. I actually felt a little guilty but the son wanted it all gone and was pricing everything low for everyone.


----------



## RyanGi

Good lord…what a find! Good for you.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

therealSteveN said:


> Mailman dropped off my package today. I'm betting I post the most colorful swap items. A box of total coolness
> 
> I have mine ready to ship, but having an extra week to go to the post orfice is always a good thing, so it works for me too.
> 
> Travel well Duck.
> 
> Kenny don't get grogged, and fall off that damn boat.


thats not hard to figure out you got your swap from keebs 🤪 🤪 

and Nathan *YOU SUCK 🤣*


----------



## HokieKen

Going through customs. Can’t decide what’s dumber. Old people or kids.


----------



## recycle1943

HokieKen said:


> Going through customs. Can’t decide what’s dumber. Old people or kids.


you might want to vote KIDS, a lot of old people make saw dust and show it here - just sayin'


----------



## HokieKen

If you’re making sawdust, you’re heads and shoulders above these folks Dick. If you know left from right and can follow a single file line, you could be their overlord 😉


----------



## RyanGi

Got home off shift this morning and went for a walk in the brisk air. Headed out through the cemetery, which is part of my usual route, and saw the local Scout troop putting up flags on veteran’s graves. Fathers were talking the younger ones through it. Whole bunch of folks out before 8am there helping. It was a really nice reminder that, even in this f’d up state, some people are doing it right. Happy Veteran’s Day and thank you!


----------



## DavePolaschek

One of the two cholla blanks Keebs sent me ended up becoming a knife. Still a lot of sanding to do, then buffing, but I’m up to 220 and it’s looking good…










The blade is a 5½ inch white ceramic santoku, and my brain thinks it’ll be a pretty sharp-looking combination.


----------



## RyanGi

That’s gonna look just awesome Dave! Nice!


----------



## Keebler1

Nice Dave. I wouldnt have thought that blank big enough for that. You said that was a hidden tang knif where all you had to do was drill a hole and epoxy the blank on correct?


----------



## DavePolaschek

Keebler1 said:


> Nice Dave. I wouldnt have thought that blank big enough for that. You said that was a hidden tang knif where all you had to do was drill a hole and epoxy the blank on correct?


I sawed the blank in half, put some red micarta around the short tang, then two layers of brown micarta around that, and then the pieces of the blank you sent me.

The blank is similar to the one listed here, but out of stock (and white, unlike the picture there).


----------



## Keebler1

Ok that turned out great. I was picturing a smaller tang. I figured you would use the other blank since it was bigger but you chose correctly. Do you want another blank like that? Think I have 1 left


----------



## Lazyman

Cool, Dave. Looks like tie-dye.


----------



## EricFai

Nice Dave, fits in with a Southwestern style.


----------



## DavePolaschek

If you have another blank like that, I figure I’ll put it to use, Keebs. Might be a while though. Got other projects I’m supposed to be getting done before Christmas…


----------



## Keebler1

Too bad pottz aint here to give me sh** about my plastic pen blanks. Hows this for color swirl. Scarlett, rose gold and antique gold. Northwoodsman helped me mix and pour.


----------



## EricFai

Wild looking patterns, bet they will produce so awesome pens.


----------



## northwoodsman

Thanks for the lesson Keebler. It didn't take long to set, even in this nice balmy 43° TX weather today. I thought I saw snow flakes on the way home.


----------



## Keebler1

Yea alumilite only has a 4 hr demold time. Now they are in the house to fully cure for a week


----------



## Keebler1

Northwoodsman thanks for helping me unload that plywood. Not aure how I wouldve done it alone. Guess with plywood prices after this arcade cabinet itll be time to go back to turning.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

Lazyman said:


> Cool, Dave. Looks like tie-dye.


reminds me of flower power 60s & 70s 😎 😎 😎


----------



## DavePolaschek

Keebler1 said:


> I figured you would use the other blank since it was bigger but you chose correctly.


I looked at the other blank some, and I think it’s going to make a couple of the Anvil EDC click pens from Penn State when I get a chance. I think the blank is long enough for two of those pens. The swirly ones are kinda neat, but I think I’m going to play with more cholla first.


----------



## therealSteveN

DavePolaschek said:


> One of the two cholla blanks Keebs sent me ended up becoming a knife. Still a lot of sanding to do, then buffing, but I’m up to 220 and it’s looking good…
> 
> View attachment 3860160
> 
> 
> The blade is a 5½ inch white ceramic santoku, and my brain thinks it’ll be a pretty sharp-looking combination.


I'm thinking your brain is seeing 20/20, that orientation of the Cholla makes it realllllly cool, and a white blade on that floral look will be a nice Kitchen tool, probably sharp too.


----------



## therealSteveN

Keebler1 said:


> Too bad pottz aint here to give me sh** about my plastic pen blanks. Hows this for color swirl. Scarlett, rose gold and antique gold. Northwoodsman helped me mix and pour.
> View attachment 3860200


I had read something further back about Pottzie getting the Ban Hamma, did he get the boot?

Those are cool blanks Kevin.


----------



## recycle1943

HokieKen said:


> Going through customs. Can’t decide what’s dumber. Old people or kids.


the easiest way to skip the lines is to buy a brass letter opener in Mikonos, take it thru customs and you'll get a golf car ride directly to the ship.


----------



## DavePolaschek

therealSteveN said:


> I had read something further back about Pottzie getting the Ban Hamma, did he get the boot?


He got a timeout. I think he gets to come back on Pearl Harbor Day, which may be fitting…


----------



## BigShooter

Mark me as R. Although I am away so I haven't seen it yet, but I'm told by my family something arrived. I am so excited, the delay is killing me!


----------



## EricFai

He'll be back, I think he misses all of Us.



DavePolaschek said:


> He got a timeout. I think he gets to come back on Pearl Harbor Day, which may be fitting…


----------



## GR8HUNTER

EricFai said:


> He'll be back, I think he misses all of Us.


i miss him he is my buddy 😢😩😭


----------



## EricFai

Yea, he is a good guy and likes to share some of his inventory with others.


----------



## DavePolaschek

Posted my most recent knife just now.


----------



## WoodenDreams

You mark me R. I'm leaving town @8am tomorrow. Won't be back till late Wednesday night. Dawg gone-it.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

check your messages Eric please


----------



## EricFai

GR8HUNTER said:


> check your messages Eric please


Just sent a reply.


----------



## HokieKen

Teaser.










Thanks for the extra week but I’ll be shipping on Tuesday
😎


----------



## EarlS

Dave's knife handle made me think of Day of the Dead celebrations - cholla and resin make for some crazy awesome looking handles.


----------



## EricFai

So Kenny receipt is getting a handful of hair, Nice


----------



## jeffswildwood

Just caught up about ten pages of text. This is a busy thread. Looks like a lot going on. I been busy working on six of my PO box trucks. An order for Christmas. I think after this, I don't want to make any more for a LONG while. I hate that for Pottz. Glad he will be allowed back. The knife swap I did years ago, someone got blocked and he wasn't allowed back. Dave P. that is a beautiful handle on your knife! Looking forward to reveal. Someday I need to get back into these swaps. I guess it won't be the next one, too cold to take my lathe outside. Maybe one of my favorites will come up, a box swap.


----------



## MikeB_UK

Never seen a watch sent as a bonus item before


----------



## EricFai

Jeff, I'll think about a box swap, there is folks here that can make some awesome boxes, and it would be a fun one too.


----------



## HokieKen

Good to see you Jeff! I bet you are getting a little bored with those PO box trucks  Maybe you can come up with a new design to make the banks in some form other than trucks to relieve the tedium?

No watches will be sent in my package  There won't be any hair on purpose but I seem to leave a trail of it wherever I go so there will likely be a few incidental strands. I have never made a knife with an edge like the one on this blade so I was a little apprehensive about the sharpening. So when I tested it and it laid my arm bare in a single swipe, I was pretty relieved.



EarlS said:


> Dave's knife handle made me think of Day of the Dead celebrations - cholla and resin make for some crazy awesome looking handles.


I agree Dave, that handle is pretty awesome looking I'm not always a fan of resin for knife handles that will see a lot of wear and tear or any significant shock loads but, when they suit the application, they sure do look cool. Here's another cacti (Segura) cast in resin I used for handles:








Those belong to Earl.

These belong to Keebler:









Those are cast seed pods from a Magnolia tree that's right outside my office. I sent them to Dave Kelley to cast for me. He also cast the ones on Earl's knives. He doesn't have any knife scales on his site right now but he has some cool pen blanks.





Pen Blanks — KelleyCrafts







www.kelleycrafts.com





If you want some knife scales though, reach out to him on LJs or via his site and he's really good about doing custom orders. Has lots of cool stuff out there in AZ too like Cholla and some really cool Ironwood


----------



## HokieKen

Like others I use a toaster oven to temper my blades after heat treating. I always have a temperature probe in it to monitor the actual temperature rather than relying on the dial. I generally temper around 425°F for a medium-sized blade. And I usually have to set the temperature about 50° higher on the dial and get temperature swings of +/-15° when it cycles. However on this project, even at the highest setting on the dial of 500°, I couldn't even get up to 400°. So I ended up turning it to "toast". That got me in the temperature range I wanted but had much wider swings than I'd like. More like +/-35°.

So, I've come to the conclusion that my $5 Goodwill toaster over that I've had for the last 5 years or so is loosing its juice. Can't complain, it's been a trooper. But I'd rather go ahead and open my wallet than have to worry about whether or not my temper is what I expect in the future. I'd like something a bit larger with a bit higher temperature range too. And I'd love to find one that holds a more consistent temperature. I figure I'll keep an eye on CL and maybe pop into a Goodwill here and there but if I were to find one that checks all the items on my wishlist, I'd consider buying a new one if it wasn't too spendy.

Any of you fellas have a particular model that works really well?


----------



## EarlS

The marking knives I got from Kenny look even better in person. A lot more shimmer. Plus they work really well too!!

I'm off to see the eye doc this afternoon. Despite wearing safety glasses, I might have a sliver of aluminum in my left eye this weekend from cutting t-track. Had a piece grab in the table saw and send out a bunch of shrapnel including a piece that cut my cheek just below my eye.


----------



## HokieKen

Yikes Earl. Abrasive debris in your eye is a major PITA. I've been to the ER more than once to get metal vacuumed off my eyeball. Get it handled ASAP. It can do so real damage if left in there too long.


----------



## EricFai

Earl, Ouch, hope all works out good.


----------



## RyanGi

Damn. Ouch.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

👀 ouch


----------



## EarlS

No metal which was the good news. But I had a 5 mm by 1 mm abrasion so I'm guessing a piece of aluminum shrapnel probably grazed my eye about the same time as the big piece sliced open my cheek. Lesson learned - wear goggles when cutting aluminum or brass on the table saw.


----------



## jeffswildwood

Earl, when I worked with steel in a factory years ago I had that happen many many times. One time was worse then the rest. Got the metal out at the ER but it left a rust deposit. That require a trip to an eye surgeon. Good luck!

Ken, I do have a new style, it went over quite well also! The trucks are just too time consuming.


----------



## EarlS

Hey Jeff - haven't seen your posts in a while. SWMBO just saw your bank and wants one for Christmas. Any chance I could buy one and pay for shipping? PM me.


----------



## Keebler1

When I worked on cars I got something in my eye. Boss sent me to the hospital to get it looked at. Nothing like having your eylids held open watching the doctor take a grinder to the piece in your eye.


----------



## jeffswildwood

EarlS said:


> Hey Jeff - haven't seen your posts in a while. SWMBO just saw your bank and wants one for Christmas. Any chance I could buy one and pay for shipping? PM me.


Absolutely! It would be an honor! I'll send a PM as soon as I figure out how to. This "new" site still has me confused.


----------



## Keebler1

Jeff click his profile pic and hitmmessage in bottom right. Thatll start a conversation between you two


----------



## HokieKen

One time I went to the ER with a piece of brass in my eye. The doctor had a little vacuum thing and spent quite a while trying to get the piece located and accessible and when he did started saying “don’t blink” over and over while he tried to get it. So naturally, I blinked right before he got it. He practically screamed “Galdammit I said don’t blink!” I asked him if they had covered involuntary actions in med school or if he needed a machinist to explain it to him? “And also, don’t you have a nurse or a tool of some sort you could hold my eye open with or do you need a machinist to make you something?” He had a good laugh and apologized saying he just got excited and was really just thinking out loud. I told him not to worry about it but that acting like a yankee in the south will get you treated like a yankee in the south 🤣


----------



## GR8HUNTER

EarlS said:


> Hey Jeff - haven't seen your posts in a while. SWMBO just saw your bank and wants one for Christmas. Any chance I could buy one and pay for shipping? PM me.


Jeff is thinking this guy could make his own maybe i could charge him 1000 for 1 🤣 🤣 🤣 🤣 🤣


----------



## HokieKen

So I won't be shipping today and will be using the full extra week which I was granted... I was actually packing everything up to ship it last night. And I noticed a broken stitch on the leather sheath I made. So I spent an hour or two chasing the thread out down to that point, restitched it, and thought I was good to go. I put the knife in and out of the sheath a few times to be sure the fit was still good and resumed packing. Then I noticed ANOTHER BUSTED THREAD IN THE SAME SPOT! And then found that several threads were actually cut. After a little investigating I found the problem. I'm gonna call it the "sliding dumbass stitch" for lack of a better term. Long story short, I added two lines to my list of lessons learned in my initial leather-working foray:

A welt will protect the stitches to some extent but a sharp knife will slice through a leather welt.
The narrowest section of the sheath *MUST* be wider than the widest section of the blade.
So I have a sheath to remake before I can ship...


----------



## EricFai

Oh No!


----------



## ToddJB

Fine lessons indeed, Kenny. I enjoy leather work, but as you're experiencing it is always full of enlightening tidbits.


----------



## Keebler1

First the sliding dumbass for the dovetail now he comes up with the sliding dumbass stitch. Think Kennys squirrells are letting too many dumbasses into his shop


----------



## HokieKen

There's only one dumbass in my shop and that's aplenty.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

wait till you guys see my stitching first time ever and man did i mess it up royally 🥺 🥺 live and learn they say 🤪🤪


----------



## duckmilk

Hey dudes! I made it back, thanks for the well wishes. Drove through some snow on the way back, the rest of the drive was all rain, 5 1/2 hours worth. Cold here, what happened to November? We went from well above average to well below.

Tested the spring I made and am really pleased with the results. Clamped it into the vise and cranked the handle, rebounded like a real spring.

The sheath I made for the hash knife didn't have a welt but there was plenty of room for the blade to slip through.

Practice your left-handedness Tony


----------



## EricFai

Glad you had safe travels Duck. In the same boat here with the temps, it was cold and rainy today.


----------



## jeffswildwood

GR8HUNTER said:


> Jeff is thinking this guy could make his own maybe i could charge him 1000 for 1 🤣 🤣 🤣 🤣 🤣


Don't give me ideas. Maybe a discount, 999.99. But I couldn't do that.


----------



## jeffswildwood

Keebler1 said:


> Jeff click his profile pic and hitmmessage in bottom right. Thatll start a conversation between you two


I couldn't find message but found start conversation. Same thing? I sent a message using that.


----------



## Keebler1

That is what you are looking for. That is the difference between going to their profile page and just using the pop up when first clicking on their profil pic from a post. I do everything from my phone that may also be why its different. Heres a screenshot of what I was talking about but you got there all the same.


----------



## therealSteveN

Earl, hope it turns out OK. If you have to have a metal bit in your eye aluminum is the best to get. The term "rust ring" on the eye is a no shirt truth, and metals that can rust can be really nasty. Average time between injury and treatment is a few days. Most of them are that "grit in my eye feeling" that gets worse, and it's then people go get seen.

I wear "safety glasses" 24/7 as my normal eyeglasses, and even wearing them I have had 3 corneal abrasions woodworking. Mine have all been wood, but they still are a PIA, and hurt pretty good. Now I wear my safety glasses, and a "Eye Muffs" any time parts and pieces might be flying. either them or my safety shield/facemask. If it's really bad sometimes all of them.

The Eye Muffs website is found here. Jorge the owner is easy to work with, and does a great job on the product. A lot of goggles say they fit over glasses, these really do, and the NRR (noise reduction rating) is 28, which is better than most shooting specs. I'm thinking of getting a EyeMuffs G6, which adds a half respirator to the eye and ear protection, sort of an all in one solution, and would be a lot more comfy in the shop in the Summer than my 3M 6800 full face respirator, which does nothing for hearing protection.

I'd rather spend a few bucs on prevention than after an insult to eyes, ears, or my lungs. Lord knows all my years working before safety equipment was a thing, and smoking, that I have already done plenty to destroy myself.


----------



## EarlS

Is there an EyeMuffs distributor in the US? Those look like they would be really nice.

Jeff - I got your PM and replied

Kenny needs to patent the "dumbass" line of products

I'm going to be sitting out swaps for a while. Since my oldest daughter is buying her first house on Friday she informed me that my to-do list now includes kitchen cabinets (total kitchen remodel), bathroom cabinets (total bathroom remodel), a coffee table, end table, plant stand, night stand, refinishing all of the floors, painting the walls and ceilings, replacing all of the doors, trim, and baseboard, re-siding the house when it warms up this spring, plus whatever else I have time to help with.


----------



## EricFai

Earl you are goingto be a very busy guy.


----------



## Lazyman

Some of your prairie style mosaic kitchen cabinets would be awesome, Earl. Anything less would be disappointing.


----------



## HokieKen

Yep, kids suck the life out of you Earl. But there's an upside to them too. I haven't found it yet but there's bound to be one  

*Gimmie an S Keebler*. My package was handed over to USPS an hour ago.


----------



## RyanGi

That’s a busy list Earl!


----------



## Keebler1

Earl for the cabinets and remodels price her wenge or zebrawood and for siding ipe that way the price for the stuff you would use is more expensive than parts abd labor of a contractor and sign up for the next swap


----------



## EricFai

Earl, you need to break in the new lathe, and what a great way to do that.


----------



## therealSteveN

EarlS said:


> Is there an EyeMuffs distributor in the US? Those look like they would be really nice.


Earl when I got mine Jorge was in either Nz, or Aus. Shipping was free, so it just took about a week and I had them. I haven't contacted him for about a year, back then he was by himself, and he didn't mention any plans to start any sales outlets. They are big box looking finish, but brick and mortar at the biz level, IOW quality product, sold off the back of the truck.

Kids...... They cost ya time and money is what I always heard.  Also heard you should always have the Grankids first.


----------



## HokieKen

On those earmuffs, do you have to wear the ears the whole time you have the goggles on?


----------



## EarlS

I don't normally endorse online companies but this one really impressed me, and they look like a Mom and Pop establishment. Late Tuesday afternoon I placed an order with SharpeningSupplies.com for the Tormek Woodturners Sharpening Kit, a base, and mat. The site advertised free shipping and they guaranteed that it would be shipped out the same day. It showed up on my front porch last night at 5:30 PM. Granted, they are in Madison, WI which isn't a long distance from here, but still, they managed to get it out late in the day, with free UPS 2-3 day shipping. Their prices were the same as everyone else online. I'll definitely look them up when I need more sharpening supplies.


----------



## duckmilk

Thanks for sharing that link Earl. I have a couple of diamond coated sharpening steels but both are too fine to restore a dull edge. I found a couple there that will solve that problem and save me a trip to my shop to pull out the big guys.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

i just tested positive for covid 😢 i feel like


----------



## EricFai

GR8HUNTER said:


> i just tested positive for covid 😢 i feel like


Oh No Tony, pry that you get to feeling better soon.


----------



## Keebler1

Sorry to hear that Tony.


----------



## RyanGi

Bummer Tony…get better soon!


----------



## duckmilk

Vitamin C, D3, and zinc Tony.
I had it earlier this year and added Vit. E, it only lasted a couple of days.
Discalimer: I'm a vet and was also taking ivermectin, which I still do. I had received one vaccine dose which I reacted to, but not everyone has that happen.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

thanks Mike i had all 3 vaccines 😢


----------



## DavePolaschek

Huh. I’ve had five Covid vaccinations. Still mask up when we’re inside most any place that has other people.

Sorry you caught it, Tony. Feel better, bud.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

seen this on our CL this morning and brought back memories of getting 1 pound of nails 🤪 

Vintage Scale Toledo Hardware Counting - tools - by owner - sale (craigslist.org)


----------



## HokieKen

Keebler, are you still updating the S/Rs in the list in the OP? Looks like there's still a lot of packages outstanding?

My package is out for delivery today. Some lucky sucker will have one of these tonight:


----------



## EricFai

GR8HUNTER said:


> seen this on our CL this morning and brought back memories of getting 1 pound of nails 🤪
> 
> Vintage Scale Toledo Hardware Counting - tools - by owner - sale (craigslist.org)


That's cool, I remember those in te old family hardware stores.


----------



## Keebler1

I am keeping up with it although I couldve missed a couple. Yall check and if you need an S or R let me know


----------



## Keebler1

For my arcade cabinet. Should i be able to just use pocket hile screws or do i need wood glue as well?


----------



## northwoodsman

Use glue too. You're screwing plywood to plywood. Just to be safe, I would still throw some clamps on it too.


----------



## Keebler1

Decent price on these bits from HD
Spade bits 19.99 jigsaw blades 12.99


----------



## therealSteveN

HokieKen said:


> On those earmuffs, do you have to wear the ears the whole time you have the goggles on?


Kenny on mine I can completely remove them, or just rotate them off my ears. When I do rotate them off like to take a phone call. they do keep pressing against my head. To take them off the frame, it's not hard work, but it takes a minute. If I was going to do something and had no need for them, I'd just pop em off. It takes me maybe 10 seconds to put them on over my glasses, and so everything is good to go. The frame is extremely flexible, so I just pull them open as far as I need, pop my head in, and let them close against my ears softly so as not to do a "Gibbs" to myself.

I have need to make a Shaker peg rack. I have the Eye Muffs, a few pairs of Uvex goggles, a couple of full face respirators, a couple of Uvex Bionic face shields, Some 3M half face respirators, and a thousand pairs of eyewear, and other stuff laying all over the place, I could hang it all in one spot, which would likely have me walking around less than I currently do. Once I find what I need, I generally see a few other examples of something I could have used while walking back to my starting point. 

That may be a weird reference, but Gibbs used to smack Tim alongside the head all the time, back when NCIS first aired. I think they made him quit, some tree huggers must have thought it was too violent, no problemo if they all pulled out the shooters and wasted some hairball though... TV, go figure.




DavePolaschek said:


> Huh. I’ve had five Covid vaccinations. Still mask up when we’re inside most any place that has other people.
> 
> Sorry you caught it, Tony. Feel better, bud.


I'm holding at 4, nobody has suggested I actually get the newest booster of all boosters. Now my Wife with hardly any medical history is set to get her 5th next week. I am a chronic mask wearer, and where we live is Conservative central. I get asked about it all the time. I say wearing a mask anytime I was out, and among people that I didn't know kept me from catching Covid. Same basic mode of transmission with the flu, when everyone was masked up all the time, Flu was almost unheard of. I'm not as worried about Covid now, but the Flu is rampant here right now, and I don't want any of that either.

Tony, hope you get past it quickly, rest, lots of fluids, and keep the fever down, I hear it's what keeps ya felling doormat like. So Aspirin, Tylenol, or Advil on a regular 6 hour spacing. Because they are all different meds, you can lap them over each other, down to every 2, 3, or 4 hours if the fever is stubborn. Stay at HOME, until you don't test positive.


----------



## therealSteveN

I'm an R. I'm shooting for the Posty orfice Saturday AM. Wife just told me, we have a thing Saturday. Worst case is I miss Saturday. To where mine is heading sending it Monday AM will be as quickly delivered than if it gets to the depot Saturday, and sits till Monday Am, which is what would likely happen. I am certain it will get to my destination PDQ.

Kenny you made a knife that looks EXACTLY like the one I'm sending out, remarkable resemblance. I'm sending a Spork along with mine though. 

OOOops probably sharing too much info pre reveal.... ehhh it's all good.


----------



## recycle1943

You can put me down for a big S


----------



## DavePolaschek

My hardware store still sells nails by the pound, Tony. One of the things I like about it.


----------



## DavePolaschek

Keebler1 said:


> I am keeping up with it although I couldve missed a couple. Yall check and if you need an S or R let me know


I should have an R


----------



## ToddJB

I'm a big ol R


----------



## GR8HUNTER

DavePolaschek said:


> My hardware store still sells nails by the pound, Tony. One of the things I like about it.


i love that Dave our last one was in Ephrata old fashioned hardware store toys on top closed about 25 years now 😢


----------



## RyanGi

We lost our local family owned hardware store during the pandemic. They’d been around since the early 50s and evidently the kids didn’t want to take it over. They retired and that was all they wrote. Neat place, not huge, but it fit the bill. They were also a lumber store (predominantly lumber, actually) and the shop and lumber barn is still there. Kind of cool because a lot of the downtown pics and stories from that era mention them prominently. 

Our local ACE hardware isn’t bad, but it’s not the same.


----------



## WoodenDreams

The last time I used a spade blade was about six years ago. I did loan out my spade blades two year ago. I going to the post office today to ship out my package.


----------



## HokieKen

Sometimes you hem and haw about spending money on something for years then when you finally do, you kick yourself for not doing it sooner…








WEN miter saw stand with wheels and 3-outlets and telescoping/height adjustable roller supports. Less than $100 shipped. Wish I’d bought it long ago.


----------



## WoodenDreams

We all try to save where we can and sometimes ask "do we really need it". And to find out later, "if-a, should-a, could-a".


----------



## WoodenDreams

Make me shipped.


----------



## WoodenDreams

Looks like the wooden scales didn't stay on the plastic knife.


----------



## duckmilk

DavePolaschek said:


> My hardware store still sells nails by the pound, Tony. One of the things I like about it.


My local is ACE which does the same Dave plus screws by the pound. Love that store because they are so helpful and the owner knows me now after years of going in there.


----------



## Lazyman

Tell the truth, Duck. You really like that Ace HW because of the bar and grill next door. I think that I've been to that hardware store with you twice and both times we stopped and got a beer. ...the food is good too.


----------



## duckmilk

So very true Nathan. But, I go in there sometimes and don't hit the bar, sometimes.


----------



## Keebler1

duckmilk said:


> So very true Nathan. But, I go in there sometimes and don't hit the bar, sometimes.


Duck fails to mention when that happens he has already had a few beers


----------



## GR8HUNTER

our local lost out to walmart  and our ace only hire guys that did not know the difference between screws and bolts 🤪


----------



## RyanGi

How do I get an ACE with a beer bar?? Ours has a local family pizzeria next door…and I guess a brewery about three doors down...so I’m not sure what I’m complaining about…never mind…as you were…


----------



## WoodenDreams

Ace is a decent store to go to. The manager at the service counter at the local Ace, is a member of the local woodworkers club. The Ace also hosts the annual woodworking show for the RCWA.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

sounds like your guys ACE are way better then mine maybe if you fail the hardware test you have to move to Pa. 🤣


----------



## duckmilk

Keebler1 said:


> Duck fails to mention when that happens he has already had a few beers


Do you mean to say that not everyone grabs a couple of beers for the trip to the hardware store?


----------



## DavePolaschek

Santa Fe Brewing has a tap room right across the hall from our hardware store, but I almost never hit the two on the same trip, because the tap room doesn’t open until 3pm, and I’m usually down tools for the day by then.


----------



## HokieKen

duckmilk said:


> Do you mean to say that not everyone grabs a couple of beers for the trip to the hardware store?


My hardware store is about 2 miles away. So of course I have to have a couple for the road when I go!


----------



## HokieKen

Deal me an “R” Keebs!


----------



## ToddJB

Well, with that and some deductive reasoning, we all know who Steve is mailing to!


----------



## duckmilk

Yup


----------



## recycle1943

It looks like I'm the only non-R so if you guys want to start the reveal, I'll catch up


----------



## EricFai

recycle1943 said:


> It looks like I'm the only non-R so if you guys want to start the reveal, I'll catch up


That breaks the tradition, I can wait until the weekend. Need to get some photos anyways.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

no Dick we will wait not a problem do not worry


----------



## recycle1943

GR8HUNTER said:


> no Dick we will wait not a problem do not worry


I just wasn't sure when the (real) reveal date was, just din't want to hold things up


----------



## EricFai

You not holding anything up Dick.


----------



## jeffswildwood

I saw this and had to laugh


----------



## HokieKen

Well TRSN and Dick are both in Ohio so at least the trip won't be long!



recycle1943 said:


> I just wasn't sure when the (real) reveal date was, just din't want to hold things up


I'm actually the one that held up the works 😬. When I got stuck on the cruise ship for an extra day that I had intended to use to wrap up my project and get it ready to ship. So even though I didn't end up being the last to ship, it's my fault everything got pushed back a week. I say we wait for Dick to get his package to do reveals


----------



## Keebler1

No worries guys. We will wait on Dick to get his package. Hopefully it gets there this week if not oh well we can wait a little longer


----------



## therealSteveN

recycle1943 said:


> It looks like I'm the only non-R so if you guys want to start the reveal, I'll catch up


Apologies for my tardiness Dick. I seem to have a thing about swap deadlines, and not meeting them. Family issues kept me suspended. That and that F%$#(&B sheath. I have come to the conclusion that I do NOT have sheath making in my DNA, so I punted, and came up with another kind of holdy thing. I hope you like it. No more about that till reveal day. You are in the hands of the USPS now, I think I'll beat the Saturday date. Isn't that funny, having faith in a gubmit run enterprise.


----------



## recycle1943

therealSteveN said:


> Apologies for my tardiness Dick. I seem to have a thing about swap deadlines, and not meeting them. Family issues kept me suspended. That and that F%$#(&B sheath. I have come to the conclusion that I do NOT have sheath making in my DNA, so I punted, and came up with another kind of holdy thing. I hope you like it. No more about that till reveal day. You are in the hands of the USPS now, I think I'll beat the Saturday date. Isn't that funny, having faith in a gubmit run enterprise.


Golly, there's no apologies needed on my part. It was an accident that I looked at the progress list anyway. 
I do remember reading something about a sheath should be wider inside than the blade going into it (lol). I had no idea of course that sheath was going to be headed in my direction.
I wasn't anxious for my swap as much as I wanted to see other's swag bag.
definition : What are Swag Bags? Swag bags are *little gift bags or assortments of items that complement an event or conference for attendees*


----------



## HokieKen

recycle1943 said:


> ...
> I do remember reading something about a sheath should be wider inside than the blade going into it (lol). I had no idea of course that sheath was going to be headed in my direction.
> ...


Actually that was my sheath Dick  I made the entry just a bit too narrow and couldn't figure out why my stitches kept breaking


----------



## recycle1943

Thanks Kenny, I knew I read that somewhere. Too many things on my mind, what there is of it. I've been playing house maid, chef, bottle washer, laundry expert and several other things since last Tuesday ( a week ago )when my wife had her total left knee replacement. 
The good thing is she's doing great, very little pain (meds) and she's getting around with a walker. I guess *getting around* is the operative words because that's all iI let her do.


----------



## HokieKen

Glad she's doing well Dick. Good for you taking care of her too


----------



## EricFai

Dick, I hope she has a speedy recovery.


----------



## RyanGi

Glad to hear she’s doing well Dick. May the recovery be speedy, for both your sakes!


----------



## recycle1943

Thanks guys


----------



## DavePolaschek

Wish her well from me, Dick. Having had both knees replaced at once, getting around is plenty for a few days, but the more she moves the easier it’ll be.


----------



## therealSteveN

Dick, also hoping she continues to heal well. Knees can be easy post op, or a real bear. From what I have seen it seems to be about how much work you put into it that is the major determinate. So push her to rehab, and pretty soon you'll both be dancing and playing the piano. 

If you weren't dancing and playing the piano before, see, rehab is the answer....

PM me your email addy. I forgot to put my note in the box. Hopefully I get the PM, never knew about a problem before, but since the change of software. my PM's suck lizard dirt. I asked Keebs to have you email it to me, if you see both at the same time, email is MUCH more dependable. Only thing I have seen dependable about this software is the frustration level I have using it. JUNK.... But like they say, it's OUR junk, so smile....


----------



## EarlS

Dick - good to here your wife is up and about and moving better.

I'm surrounded by therapists - wife is an occupational therapist, daughter and future SIL are both physical therapists and they all preach the same thing. Get up and move after surgery. 

Somewhat along that line, I spent the weekend sanding the floors at my daughter's house. The dining room and living room went great but the bedrooms were a royal PITA. I was using a 12x18 orbital sander and the oak floors were anything but flat which meant I spent all day yesterday crawling around with a 5" ROS sanding finish off where the big sander missed. After 8+ hours of that my daughter arrived and helped me stain the floors. By the time it was over I couldn't feel my hands and my knees were bright red. I couldn't pick up a fork let alone hold anything. After a miserable night, this morning my wife told me to get up and move around to help get the stiffness out of everything. My daughter had no sympathy either and reminded me that the floor still needs finish applied to it. That didn't happen, but after some time in the shop most things are getting back to normal. I can hold a beer now.


----------



## Keebler1

Earl the important thing is you can now hold a beer. TRS I sent you Dicks email address did you get it?


----------



## duckmilk

Happy to hear your wife is doing OK after the surgery Dick, and I agree with everyone about keeping her moving.

My wife is very unsympathetic to any of my complaining also Earl.


----------



## HokieKen

I feel your pain Earl. Spent the weekend finishing my son’s deck. Installing hidden clip fasteners every 12” is a buttload of up and down from knees to feet. I sat down Sunday night to take a crap and wasn’t sure I’d be able to get off the toilet. Now on Tuesday night I’m still wondering if I need a hip replacement…


----------



## Lazyman

duckmilk said:


> My wife is very unsympathetic to any of my complaining also Earl.


My wife told me that an eye roll is sympathy. Is that not the case?


----------



## GR8HUNTER

you guys that had covid how long till you get taste back ? please be honest 😢

bad shape lost my Wife lost my Taste lost my turkey day 😢


----------



## duckmilk

I think it is different for everyone Tony. Kenny lost his for a long time. I never lost my sense of taste or smell.


----------



## HokieKen

I actually never lost my taste but I lost smell for well over a year. I think it's completely back now but it returned slowly. When I asked the doctor about it, he said it wasn't that uncommon to see lost of taste or smell or both for a year or better. Sorry bud :-( I will say that loosing smell wasn't a terrible loss for me but had I lost taste instead, I would have been much more affected.


----------



## jeffswildwood

GR8HUNTER said:


> you guys that had covid how long till you get taste back ? please be honest 😢
> 
> bad shape lost my Wife lost my Taste lost my turkey day 😢


My Son lost both taste and smell. His taste came back after a couple weeks, his sense of smell was way over a year or more.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

I don't really care about smelling it's the tasting that's killing me 🥺 🥺


----------



## northwoodsman

I didn't lose my sense of taste or smell but 2 years later carbonated beverages still seem flat. You would be surprised how much taste relies on your ability to smell.


----------



## EarlS

To be fair, Kenny's taste was questionable long before Covid.


----------



## therealSteveN

Keebler1 said:


> Earl the important thing is you can now hold a beer. TRS I sent you Dicks email address did you get it?


Yes, thank you, plus Dick PM'd me. I now have shipped, and sent my tardy note.


----------



## EricFai

You guys could have had Turkey Day together, and delivered the package.


----------



## therealSteveN

I am not allowed to speak of pain, or discomfort. The Warden doesn't allow it. She didn't even come in to peek at what all you guys are talking about, but she said to "tell those whiners to suck it up"

I know, it's a gift they have.....

Eric, I keep thinking some day I'll buy Dick lunch, we are only a states height apart. Going South into Ky, I meet up with a couple of people down there on a regular basis for lunch, and to catch up. Leave mid morning, get there for lunch, usually back through Cinci before rush hour really gets started up. Ya got to eat anyhow, works out better sharing lunch with a friend.

Kenny back when everyone still face nailed decks, this was the answer.










IIRC I have seen a newer gizmo that inserted the clip, and then fed the screw through it. Nobody likes bending over. The Senco's got so cheap most of us quit renting them, and just bought one.


----------



## EricFai

If I was building a deck a month, I would invest in one of those.

As for meeting up with folks, there are a few LJ's within 2 hours from me, just haven't been able to set up a time frame to meet up. Maybe after the holidays that could happen.


----------



## Keebler1

Ok yall. I want a bigger resin 3d printer. I can sign up for paypal cc get the saturn 2 with 1kg 8k resin for 579 and i get 50 off that for first time cc with paypal. 0 interest if paid off in 6 months. Talk me off the ledge


----------



## EricFai

Keebler, will it pay for itself within the 6 months of using it?


----------



## recycle1943

I'll never understand USPS shipping. For this swap, I mailed a box to NM on 10/27 @ 10:49AM - it was delivered on Saturday 10/29 afternoon. Almost a 1600 mile trip in 2 1/2 days.
Cincinnati Ohio to Malvern is 250 miles and the package has been in the system since Monday. Granted, I didn't expect any delivery on Thanksgiving day but Wednesday was certainly an easy task comparatively speaking. just sayin'


----------



## DavePolaschek

The one coming here got a ride on an airplane most of the way. Flew to ABQ overnight, then rode a truck to Santa Fe early in the morning, and got unloaded and sorted before my mailman headed out for the day, because he doesn’t start until almost noon. The one poking along to you probably is on multiple trucks and missed a connection somewhere along the way.


----------



## EricFai

Or it went across the county first. The mail around here is weird, delivery from 10:00 AM to 6:0 0PM, no rhyme or reason. I have watched the mailman drive down the street at the beginning of our dead end and continue down that road, 30 minutes later he comes down my street. Sometimes I see him coming back because he missed one. I see a 100 mile route turned into a 150 mile route, not very efficient.


----------



## RyanGi

Keebler1 said:


> Ok yall. I want a bigger resin 3d printer. I can sign up for paypal cc get the saturn 2 with 1kg 8k resin for 579 and i get 50 off that for first time cc with paypal. 0 interest if paid off in 6 months. Talk me off the ledge


I say go for it. What do you have to lose?


----------



## Keebler1

No the printer wont pay for itself. I am not home enough to sell on etsy or anywhere


----------



## Keebler1

Well I did it. Printer wound up being $499 so I couldnt pass it up. At least I refrained from buying the jupiter which is on sale for $999


----------



## therealSteveN

Dick I think the main thing is USPS talks about going out of business every other week, UPS doesn't. Plus USPS has the handicap of Governmental interference on a daily basis. Which made me remember I forgot to give you the tracking info. 

the latest info is saying:

*FRIDAY25 November2022by
9:00pm*
Your item arrived at our USPS facility in AKRON OH DISTRIBUTION CENTER on November 24, 2022 at 9:53 am. The item is currently in transit to the destination.

I'll PM you the number. Again apologies for adding drama. 


Keebs you will do bigger and better I am sure. Other people I may have suggested NO, you love this stuff, and will put the machine to good use. It's clear that you enjoy this printing and molding of plastics, and you do it rather well.


----------



## RyanGi

Right on Keebs! Merry Christmas to you!


----------



## recycle1943

Well, USPS did it, mark me with a big HAPPY 'R' 
Happy because I already peeked in the box


----------



## Keebler1

Thats everybody. If yall want to do reveals today say something if not reveals are tomorrow


----------



## DavePolaschek

I’ll reveal… another project I’m working on. It’s mixed metal and wood working, as I’m making the attachments for the ratchets and extensions from bar stock. Getting nice tight 90 degree bends without a brake requires a fair bit of hammering.

Needed something to hold all my socket wrenches, ratchets, extensions, etc.

Here’s the first of five panels. This will hold almost all of my quarter-inch drive things.


----------



## Keebler1

Nice Dave. Everyone else buys toolboxes Dave bends metal lol


----------



## northwoodsman

Keebs, the two of you should go into business and you could turn that new printer into a money maker. Dave could bend the metal, you can print the plastic clips in custom colors. I'll take a set in Vikings purple and yellow (purple - SAE, yellow - metric).


----------



## Keebler1

Having an 8k printer is great till you see the price of the 8k resin. 1kg of elegoo 8k resin is $40. I can buy 1kg of rich opto at $18. Of course i can still use the rich opto and you cant tell much difference in the print


----------



## DavePolaschek

Got the ⅜ inch drive side done this afternoon. Only one bandaid all day, in spite of doing quite a bit of metalwork with no gloves.


----------



## EricFai

Nicely done Dave, I have mine in a tool box with the same bars to hold the sockets. I just need to remember to keep it closed to keep the dust out.

i finally ran the duct under the floor over to the table saw and have it connected to the DC. Only a few more machines to go, 1 of which it the belt sander.


----------



## duckmilk

DavePolaschek said:


> Getting nice tight 90 degree bends without a brake requires a fair bit of hammering.


I know that too well Dave. Yours came out looking great. Where did you get the little socket holders?


----------



## EricFai

Guess I start off the reveals

This was received from LJ Pottz, a nice little 4' hunting knife with a Snakewood handle.










Shipped in a nice little display box, made of Bubinga, Maple Splines, and Leppardwood to secured with magnets.









Then as a bonus a cool knife with a stand made from Bubinga. I'm calling it a Klingon Knife.









All of them have a wonderful finish and are very well made.


----------



## GR8HUNTER

I guess we started Big Shooter was my sender and WOW was i happy first we have a beautiful bread knife









then a very nice cutting board with a wonderful engraving 








then the thing that made me smile the most a very very delicious loaf of banana bread my favorite i must have went through an extra tub of butter YUMMMM MMEEEE

















*THANKS AGAIN BIG SHOOTER 😍 😍 *


----------



## EricFai

That is cool Tony, the cutting board is outstanding, and the banana bread is over the to what a way to break in a new set.


----------



## DavePolaschek

duckmilk said:


> Where did you get the little socket holders?


They’re from Amazon, $22 for a set of three nowadays, but they were cheaper when I bought them in 2013.

And thanks for the comments on the bends. 8oz hammer in the vise. Tap tap tap. About 80 taps per bend, I think.


----------



## DavePolaschek

Great work, Pottz, and nice work by BigShooter, too!

I got a swell box of goodies from Dick, aka Recycle 1943. First, there was a box (which holds a number of small games that used to be rattling around inside a drawer in our living room end-table).










Inside the box was a bowl.










And some knives. A chef’s knife, which has gone into the regular rotation in the kitchen, a letter opener, which gets used regularly, and a marking knife which I use in the shop whenever I haven’t buried it under other stuff. 










And let’s take another look at that bowl. 










It really is a pretty thing. It’s sitting on top of the wine fridge collecting corks at the moment.

Thanks, Dick!


----------



## DavePolaschek

And as my recipient isn’t around to reveal what I sent, and said it was okay for me to reveal, I wrote up the project. Here it is.


----------



## RyanGi

Well here we go then! My sender was Tony (GR8HUNTER). What a great package!
Three different knives, accompanying leatherwork, a half-dozen amazing local preserves, and a bonus tool to boot!










First up was a nice hunting knife with beautiful endgrain scales in a hand stitched and personalized buckskin sheath. He said it was his first go at the leatherwork. Looked great to me! I wouldn’t have known!











Next was a Damascus folding knife sheathed in a belt case, complete with a small flashlight and honing bar. What a great Swap item! It immediately found its way to my shop pants and has been used almost daily when I’m working in the shop. Awesome work!


















Tony also tossed in a couple bonus tools: A marking knife that’s currently residing safely in my shop apron (the wooden cover is awesome, since my other marking knives end up poking holes in everything). He also turned a multi-bit screwdriver which one can never have enough of!

















Lastly, Tony was kind enough to include 6 different jars of local (to him) Pennsylvania Dutch preserves along with a little written history about the people and the process. My wife and I are foodies to be sure (she went to culinary school after completing university). We sampled each of the preserves and, although we had different favorites, we agreed they were all fantastic! I then took the lot to the firehouse and we’ve had them at breakfast for a couple weeks now. I used the relishes atop a couple stuffed pork loins and the guys loved it. As the man said ‘macht gude!’


































Great swap items Tony and thanks for the local offering, always one of my favorite things to receive!!


----------



## duckmilk

WOW, pottz, Shooter and Dick, really nice presents you guys sent!
That bowl needs to be doing something other than collecting corks Dave . Great set of knives!
The bread knife is on my wish list, my dad had one made from a huge bandsaw blade that worked great.
pottz's hunting knife is cool! What do you do with the other one?


----------



## duckmilk

Tony went overboard, great set of knives and additional tools!

Nice set Dave!


----------



## Keebler1

Ok Ryan had me as a recipient. Sorry Ryan I misplaced your letter so I dont remember all the different woods. Here is what he sent me.








































Sorry my pictures are never that great. He sent 4 great knives all with sheaths. My wofe wanted the one with the finger hole in it with the sapele handle but Ryan put my nickname in it so that is my daily carry. Also one of the handles is made from walnut. My wife wound up taking the smaller blade. He also sent 2 jars of homemade jam. Thanks Ryan great package.


----------



## EricFai

Great items Dave, Tony and Big Shooter. Not sure what would be the favorite, the banana bread or the jams.

That additional knife from Pottz is currently sitting on the diningroom table, It will make it way out to the shop one day (My Man Cave) and be put on display.


----------



## EricFai

Ryan, great job, and you included jam too. Wow. Didn't know we were to send food goodies along.


----------



## DavePolaschek

Wow, Tony! I think you did a great job, buddy!

Excellent job, Ryan! Which model Morakniv was that one?


----------



## ToddJB

Shoot dang, you dudes came out swinging.

I was the recipient of Kenny's project. A very cool completely handmade "Nessmuck" style knife, and sticking to theme an Opinel folder.

His Nessmuck fits in the hand beautifully, the O1 blade should take a beating, and the leather sheath fits very well.

Hidden tangs are hard to pull off, and that etch is so cool! I'm pleased to add this to my stabbing arsenal.

Thanks Kenny!


----------



## RyanGi

DavePolaschek said:


> Excellent job, Ryan! Which model Morakniv was that one?


The one with the cherry handle is a model 2000.


----------



## therealSteveN

That is very clean Dave, nice job.

Dick, so happy you are happy

I personally am as sick as I've been in several years, 2 tests say NO covid, haven't left the house to go somewhere to get swabbed for flu. Fever, Cough, mostly non productive but it shakes me to the core, painfully so. Runny nose, body aches like a royal ass kicking. Headache, but I can smell, and taste. OTC meds hardly touch the symptoms. So I may be a day or 2 getting myself posted, *but don't wait for me I'm dependable to get sick on Holiday weekends*, when seeing my Doc isn't possible, and going to an ""Urgent Care" when every news reel says we are in the height of the flu season, doesn't sound like a good move. Home, lots of fluids, rest/sleep, and Tylenol or Ibuprofen, on a back and forth basis to keep the fever down.


----------



## EricFai

Get yourself better.


----------



## recycle1943

StevenN sent me some really cool items. A marking knife with a man sized handle in walnut ? that will have a hard time getting lost and with it paring type knife with a very pronounced curly maple handle that hasn't found a home yet. It might become friends with a few knives in the kitchen.
Also is the absolute stunning holder with a screaming piece of walnut and curly maple



















then I found a package that had me confused for a few moments but turned out to be a heck of a nice gift as well as a challenge. 










here is the Advanced "My Knife" kit opened and presenting a challenge (to me) This will surely be a handy dandy tool
if I can keep the band aids handy










and finally the Star of the show. 









The kit requires some assembly with future options. This will be a fun handy tool and I will NOT be engraving it as was intended from the mfg. because an engraver is included. It requires a couple AAA batteries, not even gonna look for them. I just can't bring myself to mar the surface - 









Thanks George


----------



## recycle1943

therealSteveN said:


> That is very clean Dave, nice job.
> 
> Dick, so happy you are happy
> 
> I personally am as sick as I've been in several years, 2 tests say NO covid, haven't left the house to go somewhere to get swabbed for flu. Fever, Cough, mostly non productive but it shakes me to the core, painfully so. Runny nose, body aches like a royal ass kicking. Headache, but I can smell, and taste. OTC meds hardly touch the symptoms. So I may be a day or 2 getting myself posted, *but don't wait for me I'm dependable to get sick on Holiday weekends*, when seeing my Doc isn't possible, and going to an ""Urgent Care" when every news reel says we are in the height of the flu season, doesn't sound like a good move. Home, lots of fluids, rest/sleep, and Tylenol or Ibuprofen, on a back and forth basis to keep the fever down.


fluids, fluids and more fluids - it's nearly impossible to drink too much water and your favorite juices to fight off the flu. It seems the flu is taking over where covid left off so take care and get well - -


----------



## EricFai

Nice gifts Dick, George sent an amazing package.


----------



## Lazyman

Dang guys. I thought this was a knife (*singular*) swap. I think it should have been called a bonus swap. Some great work and great gifts.


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## jeffswildwood

I'm late but what a beautiful batch of cutlery. Everyone just really stepped up their game for this one. Great work guys.


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## GR8HUNTER

more porn please 😍 😍 😍 🤣 🤣 🤣 🤣


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## HokieKen

Whatcha’ll wanna bet Tony’s comment gets moderated? 🙄

I got a nice package from Woodendreams😎








An ulu knife which will be a user for sure. I have one that I use often but hate the handle on. Rich’s handle is much more comfortable😁 Then he turnes a handle for an exacto holder which is always welcome. I have exacto knives stashed all over the place but this is the first with a nice wooden handle. Finally is a cool little all-wood folder kit knife. Rich also said he ran out of time on his main project so he passed on what he recieved from his sender. But I’ll wait to see if he reveals that package before I post any spoilers.

Thanks Rich!!


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## Lazyman

Maybe I should report Tony's post.  I am surprised that the word "porn" or "pornography" isn't in the database of prohibited words. Bastards. Oh look, they took that one out of the list. I am in trouble now.


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## EricFai

That is a nice received set, the xacto holder is a wonderful idea.


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## duckmilk

Wow, slipped away for 15 hours and another truckload of great looking knives were posted. Really well done everyone.

Get well soon George.


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## WoodenDreams

HokieKen, I'll let you do the honors. I felt what I did wasn't up to par. So, I passed along the nice items from Todd to Ken. I did keep a nice chunk of hard maple (I'll turn into salt & pepper mills), a piece of red oak (which will end up as the top of a wooden Urn) and a small scrap of wood (unknown species) put in a scrap wood bin.

Todd sent some real nice work, and with a neat tool rack with a hidden compartment. Sorta wished I saved them. But Ken said he'd use them and abuse them. Ken also mentioned they would have a meaningful relationship to him. Since Todd and Ken struck up a nice friendship from a earlier swap.

Thank you Todd for the really nice items, But I felt I should pass it on.

Ok Ken let er rip.


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## WoodenDreams

The wood folding pocket knife. I made the blade to be used as a letter opener. It came up short from what I wanted to do. I'm going to have to step up my game next time.


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## ToddJB

Woah, Rich. I wasn't expecting that! That is very generous of you! Post a pic of the wood- maybe I can identify. I don't remember what I threw in there. I was just trying to fill up the box.


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## WoodenDreams

the small piece of wood, not sure, but if I had to guess, I'd say mahogany.


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## HokieKen

Rip she shall!!


























Todd made an excellent set including a scalpel holder, kiridashi knife, marking knife and birdcage awl. All of which get ridden like cheap mules in my shop. All have matching Bocote handles which look great and he polished it to within an inch of its life so it feels fantastic too 😎

He also cane up with a really creative holder to house the lotfrom a single branch. Embedded magnets help secure everything and magnets on the back allow it to be snapped onto a steel plate he provides to hang it on the wall.

Todd made all the blades from O1 and did a fantastic job on the metal work. He hardened it at home too.

I didn’t think Rich’s package was lacking so sending Todd’s goods wasn’t a necessity at all. But I’m also tickled with it so I humbly accepted Rich’s exceptional generosity!

Thanks again to both Todd and Rich for such an unparalleled swap package!!!


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## EricFai

Wow, that's a swap, You all did good. Great items and wonderful generosity.


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## WoodenDreams

Ken, did you see the extra blades compartment.


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## GR8HUNTER

STILL NEED 3 MORE

eric keebs and Dave p 🥺


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## EricFai

Tony, I kicked off the reveals last night in post #1987. But I have not seen what I sent out posted yet. If that's what your talking about. It still fun, and I guess I need to make a loaf of banana bread, your gift got my mouth watering.


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## RyanGi

Really awesome stuff Kenny! Beautiful wood.


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## therealSteveN

Keebs was my maker, and he really did color to the ummmth power. Really nice items, who da thunk they were epoxy castings????

I'm not sure of his intent first to last, but I'll start with the cheese knife set. Love em, but their handles are a bit rolly poly, so I think I'll throw together a holder similar to the one i sent Dick, so they all keep where I put them down. 










flipped over 











Keebs will probably give a better run down, but the red on was some wood that got paint IIRC. The next one is some of Dave's Cholla in quite a colorful molding, then some epoxy in an interesting form, and last a hodge podge of woods. Plenty of eye candy, and a fun set that will be getting some use soon

Next he did a Camillus drop point sheath knife with a multi wood glue up on the handle, very nice. LOML has already run off with it, and deems it her new Asparagus knife. Such is life with a thieving Woman.










Last he did a Chisel knife. I just got a Morakniv of this, and find it quite handy. This one has a large butt end so smacking it with a palm is my plan. 










All of them will find use at the domicile, and in the shop.

Thanks Keebs.


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## therealSteveN

Doing this all one step at a time, my behind is still dragging something awful, so it will be tomorrow, maybe even the day after before I get around to posting my build.


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## Keebler1

That last one you showed is actually part of the cheese knif set but im glad you found an alternative use for it with wood


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## DavePolaschek

GR8HUNTER said:


> STILL NEED 3 MORE
> 
> eric keebs and Dave p 🥺


Tony, I posted my knife set yesterday. Pottz won’t be able to post it as he’s been banned.


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## GR8HUNTER

EricFai said:


> Tony, I kicked off the reveals last night in post #1987. But I have not seen what I sent out posted yet. If that's what your talking about. It still fun, and I guess I need to make a loaf of banana bread, your gift got my mouth watering.


yes i seen but not what you sent who did you send to ? ok Dave nice knives so 1 more to go ? ? ? 😍


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## BigShooter

GR8HUNTER said:


> yes i seen but not what you sent who did you send to ? ok Dave nice knives so 1 more to go ? ? ? 😍


Sorry that is me, I will be home tonight and post the awesome knife I received


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## GR8HUNTER

BigShooter said:


> Sorry that is me, I will be home tonight and post the awesome knife I received


your allowed to be late master baker LOL  🤣 🤣


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## ToddJB

Post my project here but as I encouraged Kenny there are videos and stuff over in my Instagram where you can see things in action


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## duckmilk

Great work Keebs and Todd!


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## EricFai

So far all of the swap items posted are wonderful. Puts me to shame on this one.


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## BigShooter

I was the lucky recipient of a beautiful draw knife, marking knife and an equally exceptional box made by Eric.










Of all the tools I own, I do not own a draw knife. I can finally stop using a utility knife and pick up this heirloom that my kids will one day use.



















Cutting the bottom of the handles and then using contrasting wood to fill the slot really sets this piece apart.

Thank you Eric, they are really great gifts.


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## RyanGi

Looking great! I love the inset/color change inside the box as well.


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## EarlS

Whew - finally made it thru all of the awesome knives. Definitely glad I sat this one out. I didn't know there were so many different kinds of knives. I thought there were just sharp ones and dull ones. At any rate, well done everyone!!!!


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## duckmilk

Eric did a nice job on those! You'll have fun with the drawknife.


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## HokieKen

Excellent work from everyone


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## EricFai

BigShooter, glad you liked it. This has been a fun swap.

And don't forget there is another one going, a turning swap.


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## Keebler1

Unfortunately i am so far behind i will probably have to bow out of that swap. Had some good ideas for it too


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## EricFai

Understood, Sorry you can't make it. Keep your eyes open for another one. I have an idea for a break in somewhere. Just want to get an approval first.


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## Keebler1

I will send an email when I decide for sure I am dropping out before registration deadline


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## EricFai

Ok, got ya covered.


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## WoodenDreams

Keebler, thanks for hosting this sswap..


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## therealSteveN

Yes, Keebs. Thanks for hosting. The swap was a winner, it's just bad timing the site went whooosh at the same time, but nothing you could control. 

I posted my project. Hopefully I did it correctly. Pretty sure it will be my last project here, maybe just because I so dislike this software, but it was the clumsiest posting I've ever made here. What happened with the drop the pics in HERE part of the post? Weird.


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## EricFai

Yes a big shout out to Keebler, well done.

Another one is in the works, for those of you who like turning.


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## ToddJB

therealSteveN said:


> Yes, Keebs. Thanks for hosting. The swap was a winner, it's just bad timing the site went whooosh at the same time, but nothing you could control.
> 
> I posted my project. Hopefully I did it correctly. Pretty sure it will be my last project here, maybe just because I so dislike this software, but it was the clumsiest posting I've ever made here. What happened with the drop the pics in HERE part of the post? Weird.


I echo every word of this.


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## RyanGi

Yes, very much Thank You to Keebler for hosting. And I echo the concerns about the troubles with the site. But that takes nothing from the folks involved in the swap. Thanks to all of you too!


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