# finishing question--cutting board that I am re-finishing...



## matt1970 (Mar 28, 2007)

hey guys…I am working on re-doing a cutting board for my neighbor…he saw me working on my planters and was impressed (yes--with my work!!! actaully I am excited to show all of you my long awaited planters…)...'

Anyways he asked me if I would "clean up" his cutting board and add a "gutter" to catch the blood on his cutting board…but he didnt want it tooo perfect since he liked some of the deep cuts and didnt want them all sanded out…the other thing he wanted was for me to take the routers edge off from a roundover bit…and just have a smooth rounding…which i did…

Anyways…I have sanded the whole thing down…the edges look good…i sanded all sides from 60-100-150-220 grit paper…the edges look much better…

Two quetions:
1) what do you finish a cutting board with…is there something I can finish the whole thing in…that I can pick up at my local hardward store…
2) the bottom has thin cracks between the seems of walnut and (oak i think). is there something I can fill this with…or will the finish soak up in there and fill these cracks…


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## Obi (Oct 19, 2006)

mineral oil. It's a food safe finish and it's the only one I can think of. It's what they use on cutting boards because it's the only food safe finish. You can pick it up from Wal-Mart, Wal-Greens or any other Wal-place.


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## Steelmum (Jul 21, 2007)

I agree. I have made cutting boards and chopping block counter tops. Mineral oil is the only way to go.


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## DanLyke (Feb 8, 2007)

For my own kitchen, I use Walnut Oil because it dries hard, and, like mineral oil it doesn't go bad at room temperature. However, I have no experience with what that might do to people with severe nut allergies.

For the cracks, I think you're stuck until it breaks, except that since Walnut oil dries hard, you could oil the cracks and then sand over them to fill 'em with a sawdust/oil combo.


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## Greg3G (Mar 20, 2007)

The use of the finish depends upon the use. If the board is actually going to see knives used on it, I would use either mineral oil or walnut oil, both of which can be refreshed over time by just adding more oil. Another option is shelac, but since it builds up on the surface, it is prone to chips from knife use. I personally use Walnut oil. I like the deeper amber color it has over mineral oil and it takes less time to dry to the touch.


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

i would use a salad bowl finish. thats what Charles Neil recommends. the mineral oil as he said NEVER dries, and he went over that and has proof in his video. really any finish is safe though as the only one that will dissolve in your body when fully curred is shellac and that won't hurt you. to be safe though i would go with a salad bowl finish. i know that General finishes makes a good one.


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## jcees (Dec 31, 2007)

Ditto on the mineral oil. It's a mild laxative but not in the residual amounts that end up on a cutting board. On my own cutting boards, I use extra virgin olive oil. They get used enough and washed enough that they've never gone rancid as some might imagine or suggest. I live in central FL where 100 degree heat and 100% humidity are not uncommon still I use them everyday and oil them only when the surface begins to look dried out.

always,
J.C.


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## wheresmytools (Apr 16, 2008)

I use pure Tung oil with orange solvent (50:50) that I get from www.realmilkpaint.com on all my turned bowls. But I'm not sure if you can get this locally.

Check out the Wood Whisperer's site on cutting board finishes that he uses.

As far as the slpit, I'd use epoxy to fill it it with some wood dust for filler.


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## tbone (Apr 24, 2008)

Yep, as usual the teenager is right. General Finishes Salad Bowl Finish. Soak it in until it won't take any more.
You can thin it with mineral spirits if you like, but make sure you flood that board. Then in the future-as needed-you can top it off with mineral oil, or if you like, Butcher Block Oil (which is about a $6 bottle of mineral oil!)
Other posters are correct, walnut oil WILL work if not for those pesky allergies.


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## matt1970 (Mar 28, 2007)

thanks everyone…i was at work all day and could not log on…but was dying to see what everyone said…


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## SST (Nov 30, 2006)

I really have nothing more to add, just thought I'd say hi. (I do use mineral oil, though, because it's readily available, cheap…a prerequisite for me… and it works. -SST


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## Tikka (May 14, 2007)

Hi Matt.

For the Finish, I think tht the guys have covered the subject quite well, I personally use Liberon Finishing oil rubbed down between coats 3 to 4 for a really good protection, 5 to 6 for a high grade piece that will shine like a mirror when presented to the customer.

As for the small splits inthe wood - get them filled, the plits are a great place for bacteria to live and breed. I would flush them out (on a used cutting board) with bleach, then wash the joints with clean watwer, let them dry. Then fill them with an epoxy and sanding dust mix (to match the wood being filled) to colour the epoxy. This works for me with no problems over the years


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## matt1970 (Mar 28, 2007)

thanks tony…I will talk to my neighbor and share the concern on bacteria…on the bottom where the cracks are there was black stuff that we both figured was some sort of mildew…and I sanded it all away (with my mask)...but of course it could be down in the cracks…which are very small…almost hair line…I am not sure if epoxy will get there--is wood putty a form of epoxy???


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

Another option to filling the cracks is to apply thin CA glue and sand with 220 grit. This produces fine sawdust and the CA glue dries quickly. It may have to be repeated to completely fill the cracks but the thin CA glue should wick down into the cracks.


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## jcees (Dec 31, 2007)

Scott is right-on about the CA glue. I've mended small fissures and cracks in a bunch of things and they hold up very well.

always,
J.C.


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