# Spraying waterborn finishes



## SST (Nov 30, 2006)

I volunteered to help a friend with some finishing work & rather than do a lot of experimenting, it seems to make sense to look to the collective experience here, first.
He's built kitchen cabinets & is planning to spray with waterborn (don't know the brand right now) finish.

I've done a lot of spraying, from cars to wood projects, but nothing water based. I've got several HVLP guns with fluid tips including .5mm, .8mm, 1.0mm & 1.4 mm.

I'm looking for advice as to a starting point to begin practicing from someone who's sprayed these finishes including fluid tip size, pressure, product reduction, etc. Thanks


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## danriffle (Aug 13, 2008)

Sorry, Tom,

Haven't found any water based that work as nicely as the post catalyzed conversion varnish, so we don't use them.

Dan


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

I did some water based spraying (very little), but I did not have to reduce the product - used it as-is out of the can (I used general finishes water based clear polyacrylic) with a 1.0mm tip and it worked well for me. spraying techniques are fairly similar to oil/lacquer I presume and you want to spray a healthy thick-looking layer.


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## Milo (Apr 24, 2009)

I disagree with Dan. Water based can work JUST FINE, but you MUST be patient with them. They need between 2 weeks to a month to fully cure to your piece. They are fantastically easy to work with, being water based, and a snap to clean up after, and nowhere near as toxic as some other finishes.

I've sprayed WB finish before. You'll want to experiment a bit with the water percentage you add (based on the manufacturers recommendation). Just like anything else, practice.

ALWAYS filter WB finish. You a fine filter.

My HVLP didn't HAVE pressure settings (your thinking a compressor?), but I used both .5 & 1.0mm tips. Again, I would practice to see which you prefer.

WBF spray on milky. It clears while it drys. You want the constancy be were the grain just starts to blur. NOT a complete white out, and not clear. You can add extra coats as soon as it dries. Another plus for WBF. I advice not trying to go with a single coat.

DO NOT USE steel wool on WBF. Use one of those 3M brillo pads. You always want to rough up the surface you are spraying. WBF bind physically to what you spray it on, it does not "burn" in like traditional finish. Bubbles can be removed easily by gently blowing across the surface with a fan or hair dry (heat setting turned OFF!).

btw, I almost always padded on finish. But then again, I was doing tabletops.

Hope that helps.


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## SST (Nov 30, 2006)

Good stuff so far…more is certainly welcome.


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## killerb (Nov 1, 2011)

I spray both solvent and water base. Good water base products like General finishes poly or endorovar spray like solvent. I have also sprayed some Aqua coat products. The general finishes sprays well and dries in a heavier coat . The aqua coat does well sprayed in a thinner coat. I have also sprayed agaualante by ML Campbell. That sprays like regular solvent base. You should filter any finish you spray. Never had any water base product take 2 weeks to cure. Maybe if you want to rub it out, you need a week . I spray with a 1.5 tip in one gun and a 1.4 in another. I use 1.0 for shellac. Good guns should spray water base the same as solvent. Hope this helps. bob


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## Radish (Apr 11, 2007)

And there are pre-cat lacquers and varnishes available as waterborne, 
boatloads of info here. I have never had to wait more than three days to rub out, and indeed have sanded to flatten for next coat within hours.
Definitely avoid steel wool. I usually first pad on some Zinnser SealCoat 2lb cut shellac to avoid grain raising with the finish coats and to impart a bit of the warmth one gets from nitrocellulose.

I have a Porter-Cable conversion gun with a 1mm nozzle/needle, and spray Target EM6000 right out of the jug (filtering of course) and my compressor is just the PC pancake model. I started out using ML Campbell MagnaLac, but being a home shop guy I was always nervous about the fuel-air bomb I was creating without a spark-proof fan to clear the shop. I'm totally sold on waterborne now.
Best of luck!


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## NiteWalker (May 7, 2011)

I spray waterbornes exclusively, more specifically, crystalac super premium. It sprays beautifully, levels nicely and dries very fast. It does not require 2+ weeks to fully cure; it only needs 72 hours.

I spray it with a Qualspray QS-125WB gravity gun, pressure at the gun @29 psi with a 1.2mm tip.


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## FreshSawDust (Jan 9, 2012)

I have had good results with General finishes polyacrylic and Zar Aqua. Both sprayed full strength through the 1.4 tip in my HF gun.


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## KarenW (May 29, 2012)

Having done this for 30 years I prefer a straight lacquer or a pre-cat lacquer for most of the pieces I do. Occasionally I have to use a WB product (due to customer preference) with a 1.5 tip and a bit lower pressure. Never had to reduce, never had to do anything special except to remember to go a little lighter on coats than I would with pre-cat. Oh, I always use an extra coat for good measure.
And I prefer General Finish though I've just done a couple pieces with the Rustoleum WB poly and found it adequate.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

I prefer water borne finishes I guess I've shot them for years so I don't feel their that much different than any other material .In my experiance none of them I've ever used has taken 2 weeks to dry ,that sounds like BLO not water borne, most of them can and must have the second or third coats applied within 2-6 hours, and can be buffed in 12 hours or less. I also like water base material because it's fumes are far less toxic then oil base material and your gun cleans up with water,no expensive smelly solvents . I would suggest just shooting some on some cardboard before shooting your friends project.


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## NiteWalker (May 7, 2011)

+1 on practicing on cardboard.

Also, I didn't mention it but I spray full strength too; no thinning.

The crystalac I mentioned, the recoat time is about 30 minutes.


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## KarenW (May 29, 2012)

Thumbs up to the cardboard suggestion!
That's how I started when I made the move from all hand applied to shooting.


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## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

Glad to hear some good things about the Crystalac as I have a gallon that is about to get used. Does it buff out and behave like lacquer when dry ? How is it with very fine (1200 to 8000 grit) wet sanding after cured ?


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## SST (Nov 30, 2006)

Thanks to all for the input. As always, this site/forum is such a great resource on all things woodworking. -SST


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## NiteWalker (May 7, 2011)

David, I haven't done any buffing, but according to the instructions it can be after 72 hours.

It's good stuff.


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## Bonka (Apr 13, 2012)

NiteWalker;
I am soon to use Crystalac. In humid Fl I plan on using a retarder. Does one have to use Crystalac brand or can another product be used?


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## SST (Nov 30, 2006)

Thanks for the input. I took all my guns which ranged from .5mm to 1.7mm fluid tip and cheap to high end over to my friends & we played with several & settled on a Harbor Freight HVLP that had (I think) about a 1mm tip. (he's still using it, so I can't verify it) I got it on sale pretty cheap & have used it on auto panels successfully & it also gave us the best result with the Cabott satin waterborne stuff. (I really wish I could remember exactly which specific "stuff" it was, but he's a neighbor at a lake about an hour from here, so I can't be specific.

It took a little gun tuning & we shot at about 20lbs pressure at the gun & I gotta say that I think I could be a convert. It went on great, & dried to the touch in a few minutes. I only stuck around for the first coat which was almost enough over the unsealed wood & he called the next morning to say he sanded the stuff & shot the second coat that looked great.

I guess I'm going to have to play with this stuff. It's way better than when I tried it the last time. By the way, a word about spray guns. I've had some experience in the auto painting industry & used Binks & Devilbiss guns that were quite pricey, and I must say that the cheap HF HVLP guns do a great job. I see little need to pay a lot for another gun. Just my opinion.


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## NiteWalker (May 7, 2011)

Jerry, I'm not 100% sure on the retarder, but to be safe I'd personally use the crystalac brand.


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## shilothree (May 19, 2013)

Hi Tom
I used to be in the business, restoring antiques. I have only sprayed waterborne or waterbased finishes experimenting with many finishes. I also use only waterbase dye but never spray just dye only. Run into botching on many different wood. I always make of toners which I mix into aniline powder dye. I mix 1 oz. of dye to 2 cups distilled water, then add the number of tsps dye into the finish you are using. I alway dilute the amount of finish as well. You must feather this mix onto the wood, let dry, then repeat, let dry,repeat until you achieve the color you desire. I use an Apollo twin turbine system. I have included a photo of my latest project for view. Cherry wood. mix is 4 tsps dye into the mix. Hope that I have helped in some way
Louis


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