# Using Danish Oil on Walnut



## TheBenchMan (Aug 14, 2013)

Hi:

Just finished a colonial style bench made of local black walnut (Northeastern Pennsylvania) and after reading the many articles on How To finish walnut decided to use Danish Oil.

This is my first experience with black walnut, and I am a novice with no training, just love to make benches.

The walnut was given to me a few years back by a neighbor and at that time was about 12 years old, air dried and in an outside building. Lumber was dry, although checked was able to salvage enough for a few projects.

I did a final fine sand on the bench, cleaned it thoroughly and applied two coats of Danish Oil per instructions on can.

I used Watco Medium Walnut, now I am pleased with the color, but it looks dull, I was going to use Minwax on it, is that the best, or are there other options to achieve a nice sheen finish?

I build and finish these, mostly pine, cherry and oak to already appear old, so not looking for a museum finish, but do want a nice sheen while still being able to feel the wood.

Any suggestions, or advice would be appreciated.

Doug


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## ClintSearl (Dec 8, 2011)

The oil was a waste of time. Buy a can of Arm-R-Seal and apply a couple coats, following directions on can.


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## TheBenchMan (Aug 14, 2013)

Appreciate the fast reply.

Since the product is a Urethane based does it result in a plastic type hard finish, or can you still feel the grain of the wood?

Doug


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

I agree with Clint. The only time I use danish oil anymore is to give a slightly different color. I ran into a bind on one project with walnut and ended up using some scrap that was slightly lighter-colored. Some dark walnut danish oil on those pieces darkened it just enough to match.

I did some test pieces on walnut, using BLO followed by arm-r-seal on one, and just arm-r-seal on the other. I wanted to see the difference in how the grain looked with them. They looked the same.

If you put on a lot of arm-r-seal, like anything else, you'll build up a plastic-like layer. My go-to method is to fold a blue shop paper towel into a square, dip it in arm-r-seal, and wipe it on. You don't use a lot, one of the analogies I read is to apply it like the kid wiping the table at Denny's. I usually do 4 or 5 coats. Sand lightly with 400 after 2 coats just to knock down any dust nibs. Then after the 4th coat, I rub some paste wax on some 0000 steel wool and just lightly rub out the surface. Once the wax sets, I buff it off. This leaves a very smooth, thin coat that has a satin to semi-gloss appearance, and you can still feel the grain of the wood.

Part of the reason I love this approach is because it's really hard to mess it up, and it gives consistently great results.

If you do this, just pour some arm-r-seal into another container. You don't want to keep dipping the towel in the can.


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## TheBenchMan (Aug 14, 2013)

Appreciate that much, makes much sense. The walnut I used had a few streaks of light going through it and since I wanted to tone it done a bit the Medium Walnut oil did accomplish that, so do not feel it was a complete waste.

Thanks again for the tips as getting too old to learn everything by trial and error.

Doug


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## mattjrogers (Jan 2, 2013)

My thoughts.

First I never apply any finish with a color, especially one that lists a wood species in its name, to walnut or cherry. I have seen too many projects ruined by people that have applied a "cherry" stain to cherry. Why would you try to make cherry look more like cherry by applying a stain that was supposed to approximate cherry? Same with walnut. Walnut colored stain is only going to make walnut look like "almost-walnut" or less than it was originally. I leave staining woods to basic species like pine, poplar, maybe birch, but I find it usually less expensive to just use a wood of the color that you are looking for from the first place. It would cost less to build something out of walnut, then to try to get a good looking and consistent walnut colored stain on a piece or cheap wood.

Sanding is also a number one priority if trying to make it look super nice. For an oil finish, I say at least 320 grit and well sanded at that, not just a quick run through the grits, but check to see that all the previous scratches are gone before moving up in grit.

Secondly, oil finishes are great, but why not use one that is all oil and non-toxic without the chemical dryers, solvents, and harmful products like a Watco oil. I have no connections to the company, but I use Tried and True oils all the time. They are only natural in color, are completely food safe so you can use them on any project including cutting boards, have no chemicals that are harmful or cancerous so you can just wipe the oil on with a rag in your bare hands if you don't feel like getting a glove, and give a great color and shine to the wood. Multiple coats and lots of rubbing are required to build up a really nice shiny or satin finish just like any real oil finish, but they are so super easy to apply to smaller projects.


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## mds2 (Jan 28, 2013)

Here are some pics of a hope chest I made out of walnut and finished with danish oil, to give you an idea.

before finish:

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http://instagr.am/p/hhNc-9FSKO/

after:

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http://instagr.am/p/h6mGwKFSBI/


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http://instagr.am/p/iKSl0mFSF-/


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http://instagr.am/p/iPuEXKFSJr/

edit: this is "natural" color finish, no tint.


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## vikingcape (Jan 3, 2013)

Hi Doug,

Danish oil is probably my favorite finish. You can feel the wood nicely after you apply it. If you are looking for a little more gloss, wait for five days so it fully cures and then add some semi-gloss or gloss polyureathane. Maybe just a coat so it doesn't build too much. What I do is use the Danish oil, then buff it with a brown paper bag and it comes out nice


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

I love Watco!
So forgiving and so versitile.
A coat to color, if needed. If not needed, a coat of natural followed by a 50/50 mixture of Watco and poly for 3 or more coats. 
Like ed, I finish it off with JPW applied with 0000 steel wool.


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

I love Danish Oil for some applications. Using both original and red mahogany on mahogany is stunning, just stunning. That's one of the few times I like using a coloring agent.

On the other hand, I think Arm-R-Seal is the greatest thing since sliced bread. On Cherry, I always use straight Arm-R-Seal and let it darken over time.

As for Walnut, I think that one is a bit more complicated b/c of how you want to deal with any sapwood and because we often associate long-aged/used walnut with the color we expect, when it is much lighter in its original form. On a recent project I wanted the walnut to be dark, so I used a dye to darken it. I've become a big fan of dyes when you really want to change the color of the wood.

I usually find the Danish Oil gives a really nice look, so I'm surprised you find it dull. You can use wax over it (I've done that), but you won't have a durable finish. Arm-R-Seal is always a good thing to try in that case.


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## RobS888 (May 7, 2013)

I think Watco medium Walnut on white oak is about the nicest thing I have ever seen and use it all the time. Never used it on walnut, but I have a few suggestions on getting a nice finish from it.

I found that the instructions on the can aren't the best to follow, I keep some foam brushes in a plastic container filled with Watco medium walnut. Pull them out and lightly flood the surface working it into the full surface. About 5 minutes later I use a shop paper towel to wipe off the remaining oil, I keep working it in with the paper towel until it starts to shine.

Although I don't start with a paper bag like Kaleb, I end up with what looks like one.

For oak faced plywood it is basically on then off with the buffing.

For heavy wear I put satin arm-r-seal over the Danish oil.


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## TheBenchMan (Aug 14, 2013)

This is an answer to all who contributed, I really appreciate all the advice, now I need to digest it, and come to a decision on how to proceed.

Since when I started to build my benches, and tables I had little skill and a few hand me down tools, so I thought, what if it was the 17th or 18th century, how would a common farmer or tradesman make a bench for his wife, so I began by using just plain wood I could find cheap, no nails, screws, brackets, just made wood pegs and of course glue, and finished them with just a few coats of shellac, then some wax.

So I am inclined to keep it free of 20th century products and may see if additional coats of oil, dried and buffed can produce the sheen I would like, and then a light coat of wax.

I have used polyurethane on an outdoors oak swing and on a garden bench, but this one will remain indoors.

Much thanks again, I view some of your projects and admire the skill and creativity of the work you do.

Doug


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## BigMig (Mar 31, 2011)

Doug - please post photos so the rest of us will learn too. Thanks for posting the topic.

Lastly - Kaleb - "buff with a brown paper bag?" That's interesting to me.


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

Doug, a couple of further notes. I hate Poly. I've used brush on poly and I hate it-I hate the way it looks and I can never get it to go on well. That's one of the reasons I started using danish oil to begin with. I hated the artificial look of brush on poly

A wiping varnish like arm-r-seal seal is a completely different animal. Try it, you'll like it.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

I use oil for client work sometimes because it's fast
and forgiving for me and I can "sell" the idea of
how easy it is to repair a ding.

I've been experimenting with staining walnut using
roofing tar dissolved in mineral spirits. I started doing
this because the walnut I can get is kiln dried
and there can be some weird color things going
on that weren't a problem when I first got into
working with walnut. Folks say the quality is
going down. In any case, they steam it to
shift pigments from the heartwood to the pale
sapwood and this affects the color quality of the
heartwood too. It can cause a weird purple 
shift that can be jarring in some situations too.

The asphalt stain can be selectively applied almost
like dry brushing and with care a very even dark
color can be achieved. Since many people have this
idea that they like "dark" wood, darkening walnut
is not so likely to evoke protest. Areas that are
too dark one can remove stain with a rag moistened
with mineral spirits. I don't recommend putting
another mineral spirits thinned finish directly over
the stain. I'm using oil-modified waterborne 
poly from Minwax and it goes one and dries as
quick and easy as shellac. I have not done it 
yet but I plan to try orange shellac as a barrier
coat to shift the color towards amber since
the poly lacks that warmth.

I have found in working for clients that Watco is
seldom "dark enough" for their tastes. I add
black and red fresco pigments to it and that
can make it as dark as I want.


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## vikingcape (Jan 3, 2013)

Yeah Mike it may sound strange but I heard somebody say it and gave it a shot. It came out nice. It's like a high grit sandpaper that removes the dust nibs in the oil. Requires some elbow grease but it works nice.


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## TheBenchMan (Aug 14, 2013)

BigMig:

Will think about posting pictures, when I look at photos posted by members who have provided advice I am reminded I am not in this league. I am not a woodworker in any sense and not sure my work is suitable for this level of membership. I am probably at the high school shop class level with skill, and not that advanced with equipment.

I still am tempted to use the old axiom, if it doesn't fit, hit it harder.

Because of some health issues that hinder my concentration and the fact that my eyesight is poor, had surgery on both last year and it has helped but I seldom can see well enough to stay within 1/8".

Being artistic I rely on the project looking esthetically pleasing, unless I am shipping an item I really do not know the exact measurements. Of the about 35 benches I've built each one was like it was the first one with the exception that my skill level has increased to where I know I can build it in less time that the last one.

Just am appreciative of all the advice and know I will use it on future projects.

Doug

You will never find me giving advice


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

Doug, you can just post a picture or two right here. It doesn't have to be a project post. Pictures here would help these guys to be able to help you with your finish. I too question the idea of putting walnut stain on walnut wood. I love the natural color of walnut especially when brought out by natural oil products.


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## TheBenchMan (Aug 14, 2013)

Firefighter…..

Since I do not have online picture storage and do not want to create one I posted the pictures as a project.

Not feigning modesty but not sure it is that good, do not think walnut is best choice for these projects.

Doug


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

Doug, there are all different "leagues" here. Look at my projects, I'm in the shop class equivalent too, but nobody's had anything but kind words. I got so wrapped up in things that my last 4 or 5 projects didn't get posted, either. I'm improving, slowly. It's nice to look back at them and see that. So, you should never worry about posting pics/projects.


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## Manitario (Jul 4, 2010)

Just to add to the chorus of voices that have already given you some excellent ideas; I often use DO on my projects, the oil gives the grain a bit of pop and it is easier to use than almost any other finish. To give it a bit of shine once the DO is on, buy some Minwax Wipe on Poly (preferrably the satin) and wipe on several coats, sanding lightly with 220 b/t coats; this will give you a nice light sheen without the plastic look typically associated with poly (and without the hassle of getting an even shine from gloss poly).


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## TheBenchMan (Aug 14, 2013)

To everyone who has offered advice this is the finished bench. I


















will turn it over to the owner this week and what the will do will be up to him, that is, it he wants more of a glossy look that will be up to him.

I have become very appreciative of the Lumber Jock website, the excellent and sage advice I have received is heartwarming, s









o thanks to all.

I am going to add pictures here baring problems, the swing in the background on a few was an earlier project for my wife, it was our 50th anniversary and was constructed out of red oak, did use a spar varnish on it.

Again thanks to all.

PS: Tired to upload a few pictures but did not seem to work, or maybe will be visible after posting, stay tuned.


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

Pics worked great Doug. When you are loading them they just look like a website link. After you hit post is when they show up.


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

Bench looks great, Doug! I like the contrast with the sapwood.


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## TheBenchMan (Aug 14, 2013)

Thanks, it has been growing on me the last few days as at first I was a bit disappointed with results. This is the first black walnut I've worked with and am puzzled how the sapwood seems to wander.

I have access to a black walnut that is about at the end of its life cycle, about 22" - 24" at trunk and the bark is so gnarly the I have visions of a wild grain, but have been told that may not be so.

Probably have about 30' of straight trunk, seems solid but am told you do not know until you cut it down, could be hollow.

Have been thinking about drilling a hole part way up to test it, is there any other way to know?

When I strike it with a sledge it does not sound hollow.

Doug


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## OSU55 (Dec 14, 2012)

Since you have used shellac, it can provide more sheen and can be used over the oil finish. Use about a 1# cut to keep the solids content down. Recoat until you achieve the look you want. If you build up too much of a finish with too much gloss, steel wool or scotchbrite will bring it back down.

Poly thinned 25-50% will provide that "close to the wood" finish like Danish oil and watco, for a lot less money. Follow the same process as those "oil" finishes. Arm R Seal is good as well. This can also be achieved with waterborne dyes, stains and topcoats. I mainly use dye to color the wood, and use dye in shellac to even out the color. This works great for evening out the color of walnut, especially the color shifts that occur with steaming.


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