# best wood for surfacing a workbench?



## mzimmers (Sep 6, 2007)

Hi, all -

My workbench is a solid core door (32" x 80" if memory serves). A few years back, I put some ugly vinyl flooring squares over the top to protect it. It's time to refresh those. While I was poking around Lowe's home page, looking at vinyl, it occurred to me that I could use some kind of hardwood flooring instead.

I know little about the relative properties of different woods, though. Can someone suggest something hard and durable that might work for this?

Thanks.


----------



## Gregn (Mar 26, 2010)

Hardboard works well.


----------



## mzimmers (Sep 6, 2007)

I thought about MDF, but if I'm going to sacrifice the durability and convenience of vinyl, I think I'd at least like it to look nice. Any ideas in solid wood?


----------



## jusfine (May 22, 2010)

I agree with Greg. You could make a hardboard top with a solid wood edge look nice.

Hardboard (masonite) is not MDF, technically, although it is all sawdust, I guess…


----------



## Paul2274 (Nov 17, 2009)

I built a workbench and used old 2×4 for a top foundation and then used 3/4 MDF screwed on top of that.. then a sheet of hardboard screwed down on top of that with the screws counter sunk of course and used a router to ease the edge all the way around. This way if the top ever gets damaged to the point where it has to be replaced I only have to spend the money for the hardboard…
kinda like changing a shirt! 

Paul


----------



## richgreer (Dec 25, 2009)

I know I am bias, but I don't think anything beats bamboo. In my case, I use bamboo flooring. Bamboo is so tough and it can withstand anything,


----------



## mzimmers (Sep 6, 2007)

Yeah, bamboo sounds good. Do the flooring planks butt flush, or is there a little V groove between them at the top?

Now I have to find some that are at least 80" long; the ones listed at Lowe's seem to be 75".

Thanks for the idea.


----------



## Howie (May 25, 2010)

Engineered flooring works good. Easy to install,easy to repair or replace.


----------



## Sawkerf (Dec 31, 2009)

I've had 3/4" ACX on my workbench/outfeed table for the past five years and - although it will never win any beauty pagents - it's holding up just fine. I drag a paint scraper over it every year, or so, and slop on a fresh coat of whatever leftover poly I have sitting around.

My benches take too much of a beating to try for the furniture look. - lol


----------



## bandman (Feb 12, 2009)

In solid wood, an american beech, hard maple or an ash top surface could be utilized as a top 
and potentiall sides depending on what you would like to have. Pin or Bur oak could also work.


----------



## roman (Sep 28, 2007)

I like cork flooring


----------



## richgreer (Dec 25, 2009)

Re bamboo - My bamboo flooring has tongue and groove sides and no special treatment at the end.

I put down 2 layers of MDF, then the bamboo on top of that. I also ran 8/4 oak around the perimeter. It's VERY heavy, which is what you want . You can see it in my workshop pictures.

It's not as clean as in the picture any more. It's been used a lot. It's is VERY rugged.


----------



## mnguy (Feb 4, 2009)

Pretty much all prefinished flooring has a vgroove on the edge, which would drive me nuts on a bench top.

I second the hardboard with a hardwood edging. Easy on cutting tools, cheap and easy to replace. A coat of linseed oil will help prevent glue sticking, water absorption, etc. I tacked mine down with brass screws, set flush, over a solid core door.


----------



## mzimmers (Sep 6, 2007)

So, where would I get a hardboard panel to screw to my existing workbench? Everything I see on Home Despot and Lowe's is in completed doors.

Home Despot does have this:

MDF with vinyl

Though I wonder about the durability, the price is right, and installation would be pretty easy. Thoughts?


----------



## brtech (May 26, 2010)

HD has hardboard. It's in the plywood/MDF/particle board aisle. Look for pegboard (same stuff, but with holes); it will be right next to it.


----------



## rance (Sep 30, 2009)

Whatever is 1) Local, 2) Inexpensive, 3) Hard. Google for Chris Schwarz Workbench. He wrote the book on traditional workbenches. For newer ones, the design is different, but the material qualifications are the same.


----------



## mzimmers (Sep 6, 2007)

What about this stuff?

Lauan Plywood

They call it "hardwood," but I wonder…do you guys think it would hold up for a few years?


----------



## DanCo (Jun 19, 2010)

maybe this will help.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xog/R-202187809/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053


----------



## mzimmers (Sep 6, 2007)

OK…you guys really seem to favor hardboard, so I guess I'll take your word for it. I think there's a 1/8" version of that stuff; I'll go look today. Thanks.


----------



## MOJOE (Jun 13, 2009)

Chalk up another vote for hardboard (shiny side up) when this gets beat up, just pop it out (assuming you have a solid wood edge) and replace.


----------



## crank49 (Apr 7, 2010)

I used hardboard for my top as well. I have a 3" lamination of plywood with 3/16 hardboard on top, all edged with a 1×4 maple band. After I glued the band on I drilled 3/4" holes, 1-1/2" deep every foot and glued in birch dowels which I then cut off flush. The HB is just sitting on 2 sided tape and inside the maple band. There is a 1" hole through the plywood at each end so I can poke the hardboard up from below when I want to replace it. BLO mixed 50/50 with satin urethane is my finish of choice. I added a couple of teaspoons of Minwax red oak stain to the mixture for the maple so it would match the red oak legs. Now my wife is mad at me because she says I have our nicest piece of furniture in my damn shop.


----------

