# Concrete Countertop Series



## Siegel_KenEvil (Aug 18, 2010)

*1st Entry*

After two years of pondering, I finally started a concrete counter-top. This will be going in a master bathroom. I have the mold construction complete. Next step is to radius off the corners and fill the small voids using caulk and/or bondo.

I'm ordering a new product from Lowes by Quikrete called "Countertop Mix". (http://www.quikrete.com/productlines/CountertopMixPro.asp) I'll need two 80lb bags costing about $11 each. I calculated the finished weight to be about 130 pounds.

Here is a great video on how I'm going to properly reinforce the concrete using #9 ladder wire.





I also need to decide on a color and technique. One technique I liked used a not-so-fluid mix of concrete, hand packed like a baseballs, then placed in the up-side-down mold. When complete, the underside looks like a typical concrete pour but the top side will have a bunch of voids that need to be filled with a complementary color concrete mix. This gives a marbling effect. I'll post the link to this video if I find it again.

Here's a great video about how to make concrete flow without adding more water. 




You may notice I have a huge undercut in my mold. I'm not sure how I'm going to remove it after the pour. I'm experimenting with using water to break up the MDF. I've even considered burning the MDF out. I don't have a good solution yet but I expect many hours with drills and chisels ahead.


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## Howie (May 25, 2010)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *1st Entry*
> 
> After two years of pondering, I finally started a concrete counter-top. This will be going in a master bathroom. I have the mold construction complete. Next step is to radius off the corners and fill the small voids using caulk and/or bondo.
> 
> ...


This promises to be very interesting.
One thing…don't try burning out the MDF. Wet concrete(even though it appears dry) explodes when a lot of heat is applied.
Keep us posted.


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## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *1st Entry*
> 
> After two years of pondering, I finally started a concrete counter-top. This will be going in a master bathroom. I have the mold construction complete. Next step is to radius off the corners and fill the small voids using caulk and/or bondo.
> 
> ...


Definitely an interesting project! I like the creative sink design. The undercut will be a challenge. How about drill out some of the area and re-filling with wax? Might be a little stressful given how nice your form looks. You could go so far as to replace the undercut with a solid wax piece … A nice little mind puzzle there - drill & chisel should work also, just don't rush it.


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## botanist (Sep 17, 2008)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *1st Entry*
> 
> After two years of pondering, I finally started a concrete counter-top. This will be going in a master bathroom. I have the mold construction complete. Next step is to radius off the corners and fill the small voids using caulk and/or bondo.
> 
> ...


What about using a release agent on the mold like they do for other concrete forms?


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## Howie (May 25, 2010)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *1st Entry*
> 
> After two years of pondering, I finally started a concrete counter-top. This will be going in a master bathroom. I have the mold construction complete. Next step is to radius off the corners and fill the small voids using caulk and/or bondo.
> 
> ...


Maybe styrofoam block. Would be easy to remove that way.


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## RexMcKinnon (Aug 26, 2009)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *1st Entry*
> 
> After two years of pondering, I finally started a concrete counter-top. This will be going in a master bathroom. I have the mold construction complete. Next step is to radius off the corners and fill the small voids using caulk and/or bondo.
> 
> ...


Cool, I've been waiting for someone to try this as I am interested in this also. Going to keep a close eye on this project.

Thanks


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## rivergirl (Aug 18, 2010)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *1st Entry*
> 
> After two years of pondering, I finally started a concrete counter-top. This will be going in a master bathroom. I have the mold construction complete. Next step is to radius off the corners and fill the small voids using caulk and/or bondo.
> 
> ...


On youtube there is a video about a release agent that some hillbilly sells. Looks like good stuff. Forget the name though- but you will know it if you just think "hillbilly" when you check out the videos. I want to do a concrete pour over river rocks for a table top. Spring time though- too cold to do it now.


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## dakremer (Dec 8, 2009)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *1st Entry*
> 
> After two years of pondering, I finally started a concrete counter-top. This will be going in a master bathroom. I have the mold construction complete. Next step is to radius off the corners and fill the small voids using caulk and/or bondo.
> 
> ...


looks awesome so far! I've always wanted to try something with concrete! It looks fun. I'll be waiting for the next blog! Can't wait to see how it turns out - the design looks awesome!


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## botanist (Sep 17, 2008)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *1st Entry*
> 
> After two years of pondering, I finally started a concrete counter-top. This will be going in a master bathroom. I have the mold construction complete. Next step is to radius off the corners and fill the small voids using caulk and/or bondo.
> 
> ...


I just remembered that an episode of This Old House had a demonstration during the show about the construction of concrete counter tops. I believe it was two seasons ago for the house that was prefabricated. Thought that might be of some use.

I was confused by the design so my original reply doesn't make sense. Soaking the mdf would probably make it easier to remove and probably wouldn't harm the concrete. Burning the mdf would not be a good idea because it could crack the concrete, or as Howie said, could cause it to explode.


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## Siegel_KenEvil (Aug 18, 2010)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *1st Entry*
> 
> After two years of pondering, I finally started a concrete counter-top. This will be going in a master bathroom. I have the mold construction complete. Next step is to radius off the corners and fill the small voids using caulk and/or bondo.
> 
> ...


Thanks for all the advice. Fire's out I guess but it would have been fun.

I'm also going to use a release agent of some kind. I think PAM is ok or maybe WD40. Before that, I'm going to seal the MDF with a primer or something. Any advice on that would be great.


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## rivergirl (Aug 18, 2010)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *1st Entry*
> 
> After two years of pondering, I finally started a concrete counter-top. This will be going in a master bathroom. I have the mold construction complete. Next step is to radius off the corners and fill the small voids using caulk and/or bondo.
> 
> ...


Here's the release agent I would use… This is that hillbilly guy. Also, his other tips are really pretty cool and more simplistic than say Buddy Rhoades or the guy on Concrete Network.


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## rivergirl (Aug 18, 2010)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *1st Entry*
> 
> After two years of pondering, I finally started a concrete counter-top. This will be going in a master bathroom. I have the mold construction complete. Next step is to radius off the corners and fill the small voids using caulk and/or bondo.
> 
> ...


Also for coloring concrete you can use gardening supplies like copper sulphate etc. No need to buy the Buddy 
Rhoades stuff. For examples see below: and A REALLY GREAT SOURCE FOR MAKING YOUR OWN CONCRETE STAIN- EASY TO FOLLOW IS HERE: 
http://www.stainedfloor.com/

• Iron Sulphate. This is one of easiest ways to stain concrete and doesn't require any acid. Combine ¼ cup of iron sulphate, also called Copperas, with 2/3 cup warm water. You can see from these results the copper-colored end product. Seal when done to protect the integrity of the color. 
• Copper Sulphate. If you want to create more of a blue or blue-green color, then this mixture of copper sulphates will do the trick. Mix ¼ cup of copper sulphate (also known as root killer) with 1 cup of warm water. 
• Copper Sulphates with Potassium Dichromate. To achieve a more orange or green appearance, you can alter the copper recipe by adding potassium dichromate to the mix. 
• Manganese. Want to achieve rich tones of brown and black? Then follow this recipe using different portions of manganese. Mix ¼ cup of manganese carbonate, 1 TBSP or potassium dichromate, and ½ cup + 2 teaspoons of muriatic acid


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## Siegel_KenEvil (Aug 18, 2010)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *1st Entry*
> 
> After two years of pondering, I finally started a concrete counter-top. This will be going in a master bathroom. I have the mold construction complete. Next step is to radius off the corners and fill the small voids using caulk and/or bondo.
> 
> ...


Thank you thank you


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## rivergirl (Aug 18, 2010)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *1st Entry*
> 
> After two years of pondering, I finally started a concrete counter-top. This will be going in a master bathroom. I have the mold construction complete. Next step is to radius off the corners and fill the small voids using caulk and/or bondo.
> 
> ...


Very welcome! Can't wait to see your project. Wish I could do it too.


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## jm82435 (Feb 26, 2008)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *1st Entry*
> 
> After two years of pondering, I finally started a concrete counter-top. This will be going in a master bathroom. I have the mold construction complete. Next step is to radius off the corners and fill the small voids using caulk and/or bondo.
> 
> ...


Styrofoam (dense blue kind) as mentioned earlier is not a bad option. Pour in some acetone when you are done and it is dissolved, leaving the void. Mold makers use it all the time…


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## SCOTSMAN (Aug 1, 2008)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *1st Entry*
> 
> After two years of pondering, I finally started a concrete counter-top. This will be going in a master bathroom. I have the mold construction complete. Next step is to radius off the corners and fill the small voids using caulk and/or bondo.
> 
> ...


I should think any of the releasing agents would work well inc one I used to use when I was in dental othodontics for 30 years, anyway that was for plaster should work fine on concrete.So mix some gasoline a little will do with ground up candles wax of any kind,or kerosene might work too.Please do this needless to say well out doors leave this mix in a large jar till the wax melts then paint it on where you expect a problem or overall. Then the kerosene gasoline evaporates leaving a very fine film of wax onto the surface to be treated.This can be boiled off when finishing. This usually leaves a very fine finish Alistair


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## Siegel_KenEvil (Aug 18, 2010)

*No progress, just gathering information*

Yesterday I ordered the concrete mix from Lowes. Tried to find plasticizer there but they didn't know what I was talking about. I then whet to Home Depot and found some under the name "water reducer". Neither Lowes or Home Depot had color charts for Quikcrete's color additives so I have an e-mail into Quickcrete to try to get one.

This link has a lot of information about reinforcing concrete but I'm having trouble finding the products in small quantities. http://www.concretenetwork.com/glass-fiber-reinforced-concrete/

I'll probably use some kind of small diameter wire mesh. Here's a response from the president of the concrete countertop institute about hanging reinforcement;

"Hello Scott,

Thanks for contacting us. Reinforcing should never be pushed into fresh concrete (cement is not concrete, it's an ingredient). Pushing the reinforcing into the concrete will cause ghosting, and the pattern of the reinforcing will be evident on the face of the concrete slab. This is often permanent and generally viewed as undesirable.

Before filling the forms simply hang the reinforcing from stiff pieces of wood, metal rods or other objects that are laid across the open forms. Use wire or cable ties (nylon zip ties) to hang the reinforcing at the correct depth. Pour the concrete through the holes in the reinforcing grid. It's important to pour it between the reinforcing wires and not over them. If the concrete is poured over the ladder wire it may ghost.

In the videos you see the students assembling the reinforcing in the empty forms. The reinforcing is not placed in the bottoms of the forms and the countertops are cast upside-down, not right side-up.

Hope this helps,

Thanks,

Jeffrey Girard, P.E.
President
The Concrete Countertop Institute
Raising the standard.
www.ConcreteCountertopInstitute.com
888-386-7711 phone
919-882-9700 fax"

If I have time tonight, I'll make the templates shown below,









This will be used to make sure I have the correct thickness on the sides of the integrated sink.









This will be used to form the o-ring groove and bolts


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## rustfever (May 3, 2009)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *No progress, just gathering information*
> 
> Yesterday I ordered the concrete mix from Lowes. Tried to find plasticizer there but they didn't know what I was talking about. I then whet to Home Depot and found some under the name "water reducer". Neither Lowes or Home Depot had color charts for Quikcrete's color additives so I have an e-mail into Quickcrete to try to get one.
> 
> ...


I commend you for your willingness to try something new. Being a professional in the concrete business, I have gathered a great deal of information and knowledge regarding cement, concrete, and related add mixes.

I have spent 35 years as a specialty concrete contractor, perfomring all phases of concrete work. I have been a mix designer, form builder, re-inforcing fabricator and installer, concrete placer, vibrator operator and concrete finisher. But I would never try to do what you propose, without help from those who perform this specialty.


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## Siegel_KenEvil (Aug 18, 2010)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *No progress, just gathering information*
> 
> Yesterday I ordered the concrete mix from Lowes. Tried to find plasticizer there but they didn't know what I was talking about. I then whet to Home Depot and found some under the name "water reducer". Neither Lowes or Home Depot had color charts for Quikcrete's color additives so I have an e-mail into Quickcrete to try to get one.
> 
> ...


LOL, give me about a year and I'll be the specialist you call. JK


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## rivergirl (Aug 18, 2010)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *No progress, just gathering information*
> 
> Yesterday I ordered the concrete mix from Lowes. Tried to find plasticizer there but they didn't know what I was talking about. I then whet to Home Depot and found some under the name "water reducer". Neither Lowes or Home Depot had color charts for Quikcrete's color additives so I have an e-mail into Quickcrete to try to get one.
> 
> ...


Check out this short video for concrete sink with river rock. 

http://www.beinggreenonline.com/featured-videos/river-rock-and-concrete-sink


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## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *No progress, just gathering information*
> 
> Yesterday I ordered the concrete mix from Lowes. Tried to find plasticizer there but they didn't know what I was talking about. I then whet to Home Depot and found some under the name "water reducer". Neither Lowes or Home Depot had color charts for Quikcrete's color additives so I have an e-mail into Quickcrete to try to get one.
> 
> ...


Scott,

When I worked for an industry leader in concrete technology 25 years ago, the products you mentioned were called superplasticizers and fibermesh. The examples of use of fibermesh that I witnessed did not leave a perfect surface as you would want for your vanity top. Wire mesh would probably be easier to embed evenly.

We wish you success with a very challenging project.

L/W


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## Siegel_KenEvil (Aug 18, 2010)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *No progress, just gathering information*
> 
> Yesterday I ordered the concrete mix from Lowes. Tried to find plasticizer there but they didn't know what I was talking about. I then whet to Home Depot and found some under the name "water reducer". Neither Lowes or Home Depot had color charts for Quikcrete's color additives so I have an e-mail into Quickcrete to try to get one.
> 
> ...


Oh, this is stupid. I e-mailed Quikrete yesterday. I didn't receive a response so being the impatient person I am, I called them. The good news is that I got through right away. No, "press 1 for english" or anything like that. That bad news is they don't have any information regarding their color additives.

I understand that a color chart may be misleading and I would not expect my results to match but give me something. Really, I'm … I don't know what to say. Why wouldn't you have a color chart if you are selling colors?

Oh well, I guess I'll learn. Maybe after I mix up a batch, I can document the exact mixture, take a picture, and sell it back to Quikrete so they know what they are selling. Apparently they haven't thought of it. JK


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## rivergirl (Aug 18, 2010)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *No progress, just gathering information*
> 
> Yesterday I ordered the concrete mix from Lowes. Tried to find plasticizer there but they didn't know what I was talking about. I then whet to Home Depot and found some under the name "water reducer". Neither Lowes or Home Depot had color charts for Quikcrete's color additives so I have an e-mail into Quickcrete to try to get one.
> 
> ...


Did you read the article on coloring concrete I posted above? There are some examples in there.


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## Siegel_KenEvil (Aug 18, 2010)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *No progress, just gathering information*
> 
> Yesterday I ordered the concrete mix from Lowes. Tried to find plasticizer there but they didn't know what I was talking about. I then whet to Home Depot and found some under the name "water reducer". Neither Lowes or Home Depot had color charts for Quikcrete's color additives so I have an e-mail into Quickcrete to try to get one.
> 
> ...


Yes I did. I've got that page bookmarked. Great site and worth re-posting if anyone reads this.

http://www.stainedfloor.com/

Those are stains. Combining those with all the options color additives provide results in a ton of possibilities. My heads spinning.


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## rivergirl (Aug 18, 2010)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *No progress, just gathering information*
> 
> Yesterday I ordered the concrete mix from Lowes. Tried to find plasticizer there but they didn't know what I was talking about. I then whet to Home Depot and found some under the name "water reducer". Neither Lowes or Home Depot had color charts for Quikcrete's color additives so I have an e-mail into Quickcrete to try to get one.
> 
> ...


I believe the stain is the same thing as mixing for color inside the crete. Check the color pigment ingredients when you purchase them- or ask the manufacturer for an ingredient list. It can't be paint, so the pigments are most likely a salt/mineral type compound.


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## Siegel_KenEvil (Aug 18, 2010)

*Waiting for the concrete*

My order for two 80 pound bags of Quikcrete Countertop Mix is expected to arrive at the end of this month. In the meantime, I'm doing a bunch of work that probably isn't necessary but it keeps me active in the shop.

I used Bondo to smooth out my corners. Today I'll hope to get the forms done for the back splashes.

In the pictures, you can see the side view profile screed I created. I have a different one for the front view.

You may also notice the 1 1/4" dowel combined with a glued up MDF block cut to a 2 1/2" diameter. This will be used to create the faucet thru hole and counter sink to reduce the local thickness from 1 1/2" to 1" around the faucet nut. I ordered my faucet today. Once I receive it, I will finalize the hole location.

I work for an engineering company and was able to run some analysis on my design. I will create a separate post with pictures later but basically the results indicate that no reinforcement is needed. I don't feel comfortable with that so I did add two tension bars. These are actually used for fences but they are galvanized and inexpensive. I cut notches in them to create mechanical connections to the concrete and suspended them in the form with wires. If I could, I would have purchased 9 gauge ladder but I only found large rolls of it for over $100.

I decided on my color / pattern. The primary color will be charcoal mixed in the first batch concrete. My secondary color will be natural or grey. Using a technique I learned from a lost video, I will create a marble look with the two colors. Then, I will stain the entire piece with copper giving it a blue - blue/green color.

http://www.stainedfloor.com/Copper_Recipes.html


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## JJohnston (May 22, 2009)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Waiting for the concrete*
> 
> My order for two 80 pound bags of Quikcrete Countertop Mix is expected to arrive at the end of this month. In the meantime, I'm doing a bunch of work that probably isn't necessary but it keeps me active in the shop.
> 
> ...


Better clean off all those marks; they'll transfer to the concrete. If you look closely at the underside of a bridge deck (and who ever does that, by the way), you'll see the rebar layout marks put on the forms in "keel" (lumber crayon) by the ironworkers. Many agencies have gone to specifying white keel only.

Otherwise, looks good. I'll be waiting to see how the sink turns out.


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## Siegel_KenEvil (Aug 18, 2010)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Waiting for the concrete*
> 
> My order for two 80 pound bags of Quikcrete Countertop Mix is expected to arrive at the end of this month. In the meantime, I'm doing a bunch of work that probably isn't necessary but it keeps me active in the shop.
> 
> ...


The marks between MDF layers? They are flat when I close my eyes and feel it. I think it's dark from the glue, not shadows. Plus, I'm going to spray a couple coats of a primer and/or sealer, sanding between coats.


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## JJohnston (May 22, 2009)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Waiting for the concrete*
> 
> My order for two 80 pound bags of Quikcrete Countertop Mix is expected to arrive at the end of this month. In the meantime, I'm doing a bunch of work that probably isn't necessary but it keeps me active in the shop.
> 
> ...


I was thinking of the long, straight lines on the bottom of the form, plus I think I see some notes or labels (words) among the lines. But as long as you're going to cover everything up with a clean layer, no worry.


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## Bluepine38 (Dec 14, 2009)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Waiting for the concrete*
> 
> My order for two 80 pound bags of Quikcrete Countertop Mix is expected to arrive at the end of this month. In the meantime, I'm doing a bunch of work that probably isn't necessary but it keeps me active in the shop.
> 
> ...


One of local steel suppliers uses #9 wire to tie their steel loads together when they are making deliveries. They
will sell this by the pound to customers, and just give you approximately what you want. You could then make
your own grid. Remember Murphy's law and also Gus's corollary, "Murphy was an optomist". It is better to 
overbuild, than to wish you had after it is too late.


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## dakremer (Dec 8, 2009)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Waiting for the concrete*
> 
> My order for two 80 pound bags of Quikcrete Countertop Mix is expected to arrive at the end of this month. In the meantime, I'm doing a bunch of work that probably isn't necessary but it keeps me active in the shop.
> 
> ...


i've never worked with concrete before. I get how the sink here is upside down, and you pour the concrete over it, but how do you get the concrete to form around the mold so the bottom of the sink doesnt just like a blog of concrete? I see your cut-out for what the bottom outside of the sink is supposed to look like, but i dont understand how that works?


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## Siegel_KenEvil (Aug 18, 2010)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Waiting for the concrete*
> 
> My order for two 80 pound bags of Quikcrete Countertop Mix is expected to arrive at the end of this month. In the meantime, I'm doing a bunch of work that probably isn't necessary but it keeps me active in the shop.
> 
> ...


That cut-out for the underside is not attached to the form and can be dragged back and fourth to smooth out the concrete. I have a second one to do the same thing in the other direction. The concrete mix will be a little dry so it packs like a sand castle I guess.

JJ - I didn't know that, thanks.

Blue - Great tip. I'll look around for a local steel supplier.


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## Siegel_KenEvil (Aug 18, 2010)

*Computer Analysis on Concrete Countertop*

Still killing time waiting for the concrete. One week to go.

I work for an engineering and design company. It's not uncommon for us to virtually simulate car crashes and structure stiffness on designs before they are made. Doing a counter-top design was a walk in the park for the FEA (Finite Element Analysis) guys.

The images below show the results of simulating two 200 pound loads (people) positioned on each side of the sink. The counter-top is only supported on the outer edges. We did this with and with-out reinforcement. The stresses were so small that there was no difference. Based on the results, I could reduce the thickness but I like the chunky 1.5" look.

We have another software program that optimizes designs. We are going to ask the software to give us the lightest feasible design and reinforcement placement. I'm not too excited about this anymore because I don't intend to change anything but it'll be interesting.

You can get the tensile strength of typical concrete here;

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/concrete-properties-d_1223.html


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## bigfish_95008 (Nov 26, 2009)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Computer Analysis on Concrete Countertop*
> 
> Still killing time waiting for the concrete. One week to go.
> 
> ...


Very interesting. In the bottom up rendering the blue lines at the ends are the cabinets/supports? The sink appears to give support across the the length, but also give you stress at the ends where the downward force is applied. Having the different forces shown in different colors is very informative. Thanks for sharing this it was informative, and started my mind working early today.


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## Ken90712 (Sep 2, 2009)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Computer Analysis on Concrete Countertop*
> 
> Still killing time waiting for the concrete. One week to go.
> 
> ...


Very intersting to say the least. We had some great conversation about this for the last hour or so. You should here 3 different types of engineers discuss this.


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## Brad_Nailor (Jul 26, 2007)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Computer Analysis on Concrete Countertop*
> 
> Still killing time waiting for the concrete. One week to go.
> 
> ...


Wow…cool stuff….


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## bigfish_95008 (Nov 26, 2009)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Computer Analysis on Concrete Countertop*
> 
> Still killing time waiting for the concrete. One week to go.
> 
> ...


Ken90712, next time you are having a discussion like that give me a call I'll zip right over.


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## Siegel_KenEvil (Aug 18, 2010)

*The Big Pour*

The concrete is poured and it was nothing like I was expecting. I had my daughters fill the back-splash forms but I was short on concrete so I had to use the material from the back-splashes to complete the sink. I kind of panicked and I didn't spend as much time as I wanted packing the undercuts. Not too worried. If there are voids, I'll fill them when I pour the back splashes.

I have learned a lot but most of it's, "what not to do". I'll know better once the concrete is out of the molds.










My daughter was taking pictures so I don't have what I was hopping for. I told her to take a picture of everything… like one picture with everything. She took a picture of each item like it was a crime scene. This picture shows the cavity and a drill rigged to be a vibrator.










This picture shows basically what I used to prepare the molds. I don't think so much work was necessary but I had time to kill. In order of usage; Bondo, Chisel and #120 sandpaper to shape blends with sand paper wrapped around pipe and dowels or blocks, caulk with caulk tool for small blends, body filler for small voids, primer, sanding with #320 foam sanding block and #400 wet paper, semi-gloss black paint (only because I had it), sanding with #800 wet paper, clear paint, sanding up to #2000, turtle wax, and eventually a light coat of cooking spray. I liked the tip I got in an earlier post about dissolving wax in solvent but I didn't use it.









I found a 4' x 8' sheet of 6" wire mesh at Lowes that replaced the tension rods I was originally going to use. We cleaned them with steel wool and covered with several coats of primer.









We started by mixing one bag with charcoal color and dumping it in a holding container. Then we mixed up a bag with no color and folded it in the first mix. This was my first time using a mixer. Maybe someone can tell me if I did something wrong because even with the mixer, it wasn't much easier than mixing it by hand. The concrete first turned into a bunch of balls that resembled deer droppings. We stopped the machine several times to break them up and freeing dry clumps hiding in the back of the mixer.










I tried to be as prepared as I could. I was planing on using screeds with the sink profile cut out to do most of my work. I build a back-side mold in-case the concrete was too runny. It was. So runny that it wouldn't even pack 2 inches high so I had to quickly clamp on another piece of wood. I think this was due to the super plastizers in the Quikrete mix. Had I read "Decorative Concrete" by Sunset before purchasing my mix, this would have been avoided. It has a bunch of formulas for different applications. I needed a dryer mix so I could pack the sides of the sink (like building a sand castle with wet sand). 
http://www.amazon.com/Decorative-Concrete-Sunset-Editors-Books/dp/0376011602









Many of my other jigs were useless. I build on to create a groove for the o-ring. This made a mess. I ended up smoothing the concrete and placing the o-ring in it. I also had a template to position the bolts. Somewhat useless.

I guess I've got several days to wait till I start pulling off the molds.


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *The Big Pour*
> 
> The concrete is poured and it was nothing like I was expecting. I had my daughters fill the back-splash forms but I was short on concrete so I had to use the material from the back-splashes to complete the sink. I kind of panicked and I didn't spend as much time as I wanted packing the undercuts. Not too worried. If there are voids, I'll fill them when I pour the back splashes.
> 
> ...


Looks like you have a very good worker there in your daughter! My wife and I would love to have her do some things around our house! Since she seems to be good at concrete, I'll start her our on a new sidewalk and after that I think an addition to the deck would be in order… then perhaps some lunch… can she make sandwiches?


----------



## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *The Big Pour*
> 
> The concrete is poured and it was nothing like I was expecting. I had my daughters fill the back-splash forms but I was short on concrete so I had to use the material from the back-splashes to complete the sink. I kind of panicked and I didn't spend as much time as I wanted packing the undercuts. Not too worried. If there are voids, I'll fill them when I pour the back splashes.
> 
> ...


Great post! Seeing the troubles along the way help a lot in understanding what the process is like. Good luck with the next steps!


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## Siegel_KenEvil (Aug 18, 2010)

*Concrete Curing*

It's been two days since the first pour. When I pulled off the top form, I discovered that the concrete didn't fill completely. I also had the back-splash forms to fill so I mixed up a sand/cement mix. To this, I added acrylic fortifier and liquid charcoal dye. I filled the back-splash forms and troweled in the voids on the sink.

I'm learning about curing. My approach is to spray with water every couple hours and cover with plastic trash bags. The concrete mix was warm for the first 24 hours but isn't warm now. I was surprised that the sand mix never warmed up like the concrete did.

I'm not sure if this is an indication curing is complete. Until I understand this better, I'm going to keep it wet and covered.


----------



## JJohnston (May 22, 2009)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Concrete Curing*
> 
> It's been two days since the first pour. When I pulled off the top form, I discovered that the concrete didn't fill completely. I also had the back-splash forms to fill so I mixed up a sand/cement mix. To this, I added acrylic fortifier and liquid charcoal dye. I filled the back-splash forms and troweled in the voids on the sink.
> 
> ...


The rate of cure has peaked, but concrete curing is never really "complete" - the hydration process can continue for years, even decades in massive structures. You should be able to handle your countertop safely in about a week, and shoud expect to get the advertised strength in about 4. Keeping it wet and covered is right.


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## dakremer (Dec 8, 2009)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Concrete Curing*
> 
> It's been two days since the first pour. When I pulled off the top form, I discovered that the concrete didn't fill completely. I also had the back-splash forms to fill so I mixed up a sand/cement mix. To this, I added acrylic fortifier and liquid charcoal dye. I filled the back-splash forms and troweled in the voids on the sink.
> 
> ...


looking good so far! i'm excited to see the finished project. I've always wanted to make a countertop/table top/bench top…..or SOMETHING out of concrete! cool blog, very informative


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## smartlikestick (Aug 8, 2008)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Concrete Curing*
> 
> It's been two days since the first pour. When I pulled off the top form, I discovered that the concrete didn't fill completely. I also had the back-splash forms to fill so I mixed up a sand/cement mix. To this, I added acrylic fortifier and liquid charcoal dye. I filled the back-splash forms and troweled in the voids on the sink.
> 
> ...


Hey Scott

The heat you felt after introducing the cement / water is a result of a chemical reaction of the materials. Depending on the cement you used, I would leave the sink at least 3-5 days before I tried handling it, to allow it to come up to strength. Keeping it covered and moist will help to strengthen it and make it a more robust product. All in all it looks good!

Mike


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## Siegel_KenEvil (Aug 18, 2010)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Concrete Curing*
> 
> It's been two days since the first pour. When I pulled off the top form, I discovered that the concrete didn't fill completely. I also had the back-splash forms to fill so I mixed up a sand/cement mix. To this, I added acrylic fortifier and liquid charcoal dye. I filled the back-splash forms and troweled in the voids on the sink.
> 
> ...


Thanks, I needed some reassurance.

I should mention something else I heard. Concrete won't stick to concrete without a bonding agent. I didn't use concrete or a bonding agent. As mentioned, I used a sand/cement mix. According to Sunset's Decorative Concrete book, sand mix is good for contertops less than two inches thick (my back-splashes) and as a 1/2-inch or thicker coating on old concrete (filling in voids on the sink).

Non-shrink precision grout was recommended as an alternative but I couldn't find a large bag of it. I did buy a 25 pound bag of white grout that I will use on the top side to fill in those voids. I anticipate the contrasting color to look like natural marbling.


----------



## childress (Sep 14, 2008)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Concrete Curing*
> 
> It's been two days since the first pour. When I pulled off the top form, I discovered that the concrete didn't fill completely. I also had the back-splash forms to fill so I mixed up a sand/cement mix. To this, I added acrylic fortifier and liquid charcoal dye. I filled the back-splash forms and troweled in the voids on the sink.
> 
> ...


Sorry, I haven't checked all your blogs yet, but did you use a vibrating wand when pouring? This would ensure the mix gets set into all the little crevices and what not.

Also, my brother used to be a mason and has done quite a few poured concrete counters. Mainly for outdoor kitchens. He did use concrete (basically mortor with rocks in it) but would get the really small rocks that were smooth and a high tensile strength cement. I know it doesn't matter now, but it's always good to "hear" stuff from as many people as possible…

Are you going to sand and polish the top surface???


----------



## Siegel_KenEvil (Aug 18, 2010)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Concrete Curing*
> 
> It's been two days since the first pour. When I pulled off the top form, I discovered that the concrete didn't fill completely. I also had the back-splash forms to fill so I mixed up a sand/cement mix. To this, I added acrylic fortifier and liquid charcoal dye. I filled the back-splash forms and troweled in the voids on the sink.
> 
> ...


For vibrating, I used a cordless drill with a bold inserted. I also heard of using a sander. The truth is that I was so panicked that I didn't spend a lot of time vibrating. The mix was not stiff enough to stay in place and too stiff to flow nicely. Discovering this, I had to quickly improvise and add to my form and I forgot about everything else.

I am going to do whatever is necessary to get a good top surface. By the time it's exposed, I don't think sanding will work but I'll try. If need be, I'll rent a wet polisher. Maybe I'll start looking for a used one on e-bay or craigslist today.


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## Siegel_KenEvil (Aug 18, 2010)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Concrete Curing*
> 
> It's been two days since the first pour. When I pulled off the top form, I discovered that the concrete didn't fill completely. I also had the back-splash forms to fill so I mixed up a sand/cement mix. To this, I added acrylic fortifier and liquid charcoal dye. I filled the back-splash forms and troweled in the voids on the sink.
> 
> ...












I thought it would be a good idea to start using water on the mdf since I had to spray the concrete frequently. Im using chisels and paddle bits in my 12v Dewalt to create cavities in the form. One minute I feel like a crazed dentist drilling a tooth, the next like Bob Ross watering flowers. The ancient canister vacuum cleaner I inherited works perfect for keeping things tidy.


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## childress (Sep 14, 2008)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Concrete Curing*
> 
> It's been two days since the first pour. When I pulled off the top form, I discovered that the concrete didn't fill completely. I also had the back-splash forms to fill so I mixed up a sand/cement mix. To this, I added acrylic fortifier and liquid charcoal dye. I filled the back-splash forms and troweled in the voids on the sink.
> 
> ...


Yeah, I guess I should have been more clear. I didn't mean sand like you would with wood. You will need some sorta diamond coated sandpaper like this

They work good on a 7" angle grinder. You should look for a granite supply store in your area that sells tools and stuff for working with stone. They will have something for you.

Right on! I'm looking forward to the finished product


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## flowchart_jockey (Dec 23, 2009)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Concrete Curing*
> 
> It's been two days since the first pour. When I pulled off the top form, I discovered that the concrete didn't fill completely. I also had the back-splash forms to fill so I mixed up a sand/cement mix. To this, I added acrylic fortifier and liquid charcoal dye. I filled the back-splash forms and troweled in the voids on the sink.
> 
> ...


I love this series, and the detail you are putting in to the blog posts. I am looking forward to the next installment. Thanks for sharing this with us!


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## Siegel_KenEvil (Aug 18, 2010)

*Be Carefull, Cement Burns!*

I ended up in the hospital last night after 4 days of agony.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Portland_cement
"When traditional Portland cement is mixed with water the dissolution of calcium, sodium and potassium hydroxides produces a highly alkaline solution (pH 13): gloves, goggles and a filter mask should be used for protection, and hands should be washed after contact as most cement can cause acute ulcerative damage 8-12 hours after contact if skin is not washed promptly. The reaction of cement dust with moisture in the sinuses and lungs can also cause a chemical burn as well as headaches, fatigue, and lung cancer. The development of formulations of cement that include fast-reacting pozzolans such as silica fume as well as some slow-reacting products such as fly ash have allowed for the production of comparatively low-alkalinity cements (pH 11) that are much less toxic and which have become widely commercially available, largely replacing high-pH formulations in much of the United States. Once any cement sets, the hardened mass loses chemical reactivity and can be safely touched without gloves."

I did use gloves and dust masks the day of the pour but I didn't anticipate other ways cement can get on your skin. I have a nice burn to the left of my mouth where my dirty glove came into contact with my face as I dragged my finger down to scrape off my dust mask.

It gets worse… way worse. I have my concrete filled form in my foyer so that it remains a suitable temperature for curing. One of the first things I do when I wake up is check on my baby (the sink) and then I might climb back into bed to play on the computer. My bare feet carried concrete dust back into my bed. Not enough dust to burn normal skin but enough to burn sensitive skin. Yep, that's what I'm talking about. My "unit" is completely swollen. All of it. The symptoms started showing up Monday morning. I kept trying to cure myself using vinegar and different anti-itch lotions but the damage was already done. Last night I woke up at 1:30 AM and had enough. It was unbearable so I drove myself to the hospital.

I'm doing better now but still uncomfortable. I can't wait till I'm looking back on this experience and laughing about it. Right now, it's not that funny.


----------



## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Be Carefull, Cement Burns!*
> 
> I ended up in the hospital last night after 4 days of agony.
> 
> ...


Silica will do it to ya. Ive had my share of concrete "burns" from cutting concrete, and getting the slurry all over me when they let me have fun in the field. Can't say i ever roasted the old brat and potatoes with it though. Hopefully you feel better soon, oh and thanks for the chuckle (more like a belly laugh), sorry to laugh at your expense.


----------



## Siegel_KenEvil (Aug 18, 2010)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Be Carefull, Cement Burns!*
> 
> I ended up in the hospital last night after 4 days of agony.
> 
> ...


Wanna laugh harder? The doctors were convinced it was caused from a STD so they did a full check out. Two swabs right down the barrel. I don't even like thinking about it let alone experiencing it.

For the record and for all the single lady Lumberjocks, I'm clean.


----------



## Cantputjamontoast (Jan 1, 2009)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Be Carefull, Cement Burns!*
> 
> I ended up in the hospital last night after 4 days of agony.
> 
> ...


I would sue the doctors for attempting to go up an exit ramp on a hunch that I had something like that.


----------



## Cantputjamontoast (Jan 1, 2009)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Be Carefull, Cement Burns!*
> 
> I ended up in the hospital last night after 4 days of agony.
> 
> ...


I have been loosely following this. I wish I had known that you did not know about the burns.

I worked at a precast plant for 8 years.

You don't have enough mass there to generate much heat from the concrete. You don't have to baby it as much as you are doing.

if you can find some burlap or very cheap cotton cloth you can soak that to provide curing moisture. You poured the fininshed surface down which is great. We poured our bridge decks down in form. The concrete on the bottom of an 8' slab can be as much as 5 times as dense as the stuff on top.

You won'thave to worry about freeze thaw like on a bridge deck but you have the best concrete on the bottom.


----------



## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Be Carefull, Cement Burns!*
> 
> I ended up in the hospital last night after 4 days of agony.
> 
> ...


Aww man seigel … rough go on that one, no laughter this time that induced a wince outta me brother. On the right side …. clean bill of health!


----------



## JJohnston (May 22, 2009)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Be Carefull, Cement Burns!*
> 
> I ended up in the hospital last night after 4 days of agony.
> 
> ...


I was on a jobsite once, near a concrete pump, and got a tiny little blob from a splash right on my eye. It came from the side and went behind my glasses. Instant, incapacitating pain and blindness. Luckily, there were plenty of tears to wash it out.


----------



## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Be Carefull, Cement Burns!*
> 
> I ended up in the hospital last night after 4 days of agony.
> 
> ...


I just commented on your next post about how much I am enjoying your story. I had not read this post!! Sorry to hear of this - hope you heal quickly.


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## Jimthecarver (Jan 14, 2008)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Be Carefull, Cement Burns!*
> 
> I ended up in the hospital last night after 4 days of agony.
> 
> ...


I have been reading your blog on making the sink. I came across this and (had to laugh) been there done that three times. But i'll pass on the STD check. If its anything like a cathater… all I can do is squirm.
But when the boys are looking like a HUGE RED RASH, lol time to go get them steroids to get rid of it.
Good luck with the rest of your venture.


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## Siegel_KenEvil (Aug 18, 2010)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Be Carefull, Cement Burns!*
> 
> I ended up in the hospital last night after 4 days of agony.
> 
> ...


Thanks Jim, they gave me steroids and I thought it was BS. I wasn't going to use it but I'm glad you've heard of it. ...lathering up right now.


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## RonPeters (Jul 7, 2010)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Be Carefull, Cement Burns!*
> 
> I ended up in the hospital last night after 4 days of agony.
> 
> ...


Cement is some nasty stuff. I did flat work for a summer where I learned the trade. It's not difficult to learn, mud is heavy and wet. Let the truck do the work spreading it. Just need to level it and smooth it. I wore gloves and my hands would dry and crack from the cement. Hands get wet even with gloves on. Never was so strong as that summer.

However, I never got any cement dust where you did. Steroids are anti-inflammatory so that makes sense.

I recommend wearing pajamas….


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## rivergirl (Aug 18, 2010)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Be Carefull, Cement Burns!*
> 
> I ended up in the hospital last night after 4 days of agony.
> 
> ...


Sorry, but I can't stop laughing! Maybe keep some extra strength hydrocortisone cream around for the next time.  hehehehe


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## Siegel_KenEvil (Aug 18, 2010)

*Molds Removed - Top Surface is Exposed*

It's been 6 days since the first pour and 5 days since the back-splash and void fills. I was going to wait two weeks but seeing the undercuts gone, after chipping away a little every day, I got excited and removed the forms.










Things are starting to come together. Instead of drilling out the faucet hole after the concrete hardens, I inserted a 1-1/4" dowel and 2-1/2" counter sink. It works fine but here are some things I'll change next time. First, the thru hole should have been 1-3/8" to be standard (I think). Second, I wish I had just drilled it to give me location flexibility. I based my dimension on my current sink but I don't like how close this faucet is to the edge of the sink.

Drilling out does have a drawback I'll have to resolve. The faucet threads are too short to be used on a 1-1/2" thick counter-top. The counter-sink is necessary unless the faucet can be refitted with longer threads.










The above image shows; the form before the pour, the chipping away after the pour, the plug removed, and the plug still in the concrete after unscrewing it from the rest of the form.










This image shows my biggest problem area. This confirms my fears mentioned in one of my previous post about flat out forgetting (panicking) to push concrete up in this area. I used my orbital sander to remove paint that preferred to stay on the concrete. Worked great but I didn't like the slurry around a tool not intended to be wet.










I'm really happy with the results. The back splashes are ready to be polished. The pits in the counter-top and sink need to be filled. I was going to use contrasting white grout but after seeing how black the back-splashes are, I'm going to switch to black grout to tie in them in aesthetically.










Right now, I'm back to curing but with the top-side up. I think I'll take a break for a while before I start mixing up my grout. Reason… see previous post.

One last thing. I think it's important to reiterate the mixtures that gave the shown results.

*The Sink and Counter-Top*

Batch 1 - 1 80# bag Quikrete Counter-top Mix, a little more than 1 gal of water
Batch 2 - same as Batch 1 but add 1 Quikrete Charcoal Concrete Die
Gently fold together

*
The Back-splashes*

1 60# bag of sand mix (sand and cement), 1 Quikrete Charcoal Concrete Die, 1 bottle of Acrylic Fortifier. (don't know how much but there is only one size), Water.


----------



## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Molds Removed - Top Surface is Exposed*
> 
> It's been 6 days since the first pour and 5 days since the back-splash and void fills. I was going to wait two weeks but seeing the undercuts gone, after chipping away a little every day, I got excited and removed the forms.
> 
> ...


WOW i think that came out awesome. Good for you for trying something new im impressed


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## dakremer (Dec 8, 2009)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Molds Removed - Top Surface is Exposed*
> 
> It's been 6 days since the first pour and 5 days since the back-splash and void fills. I was going to wait two weeks but seeing the undercuts gone, after chipping away a little every day, I got excited and removed the forms.
> 
> ...


it looks like there are a lot of voids/holes in the concrete. Did you vibrate it before letting it dry/cure? I'll have to go look at the previous blogs.


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## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Molds Removed - Top Surface is Exposed*
> 
> It's been 6 days since the first pour and 5 days since the back-splash and void fills. I was going to wait two weeks but seeing the undercuts gone, after chipping away a little every day, I got excited and removed the forms.
> 
> ...


This is really interesting - I am ready to see how the finishing work turns out. You have a nice design going on here!


----------



## Siegel_KenEvil (Aug 18, 2010)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Molds Removed - Top Surface is Exposed*
> 
> It's been 6 days since the first pour and 5 days since the back-splash and void fills. I was going to wait two weeks but seeing the undercuts gone, after chipping away a little every day, I got excited and removed the forms.
> 
> ...


Dakremer - no I didn't vibrate it enough. I had my daughter go around it once with a hex head bold inserted into a drill creating a hammering effect. It wasn't enough but I'm not too surprised. If I had my heart set on filling all the voids, I would have used more water in the concrete mix and better vibrating techniques… like having a fully charged battery in the drill. I also heard palm sanders work well. I kind of did a hail marry and live with the results.

Thanks Steve and Chris. This is a fun project.


----------



## Cantputjamontoast (Jan 1, 2009)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Molds Removed - Top Surface is Exposed*
> 
> It's been 6 days since the first pour and 5 days since the back-splash and void fills. I was going to wait two weeks but seeing the undercuts gone, after chipping away a little every day, I got excited and removed the forms.
> 
> ...


The hard part of this is making the form.

Hell mix up 2 more bags of mud and try again if you are not pleased. I think it looks good!!!

Rent a horse __ (part of anatomy that you burned) vibrator and try again. There are whole books written on vibration and consolidation of concrete.


----------



## dakremer (Dec 8, 2009)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Molds Removed - Top Surface is Exposed*
> 
> It's been 6 days since the first pour and 5 days since the back-splash and void fills. I was going to wait two weeks but seeing the undercuts gone, after chipping away a little every day, I got excited and removed the forms.
> 
> ...


yeah, hindsight is always 20/20 huh?...but it looks great for a first try thats for sure! I really love concrete stuff. I really want to do a little concrete top coffee table, or something like that - just to try it. You definitely did an awesome job for a first time on a VERY complicated piece. Awesome blog! Awesome project!! Thanks a lot for sharing


----------



## childress (Sep 14, 2008)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Molds Removed - Top Surface is Exposed*
> 
> It's been 6 days since the first pour and 5 days since the back-splash and void fills. I was going to wait two weeks but seeing the undercuts gone, after chipping away a little every day, I got excited and removed the forms.
> 
> ...


Also, using melamine would have been better. The mortar won't stick to it, it would've been a lot smoother surface, along with vibrating better.

But, this gives you an opportunity to do something cool with all those holes. which it looks like you're planning anyways. As long as you're happy, that's all that matters…

EDIT: Sorry, I jumped the gun. Again, I failed to read all the other blogs in their entirety. I see now how you finished the form and think that was just fine. I thought I remembered you saying you use just plain MDF…


----------



## Siegel_KenEvil (Aug 18, 2010)

*Filling Small Pits and Repair Job*

Late for a party so I have to be quick










This was my set-up last night to fill the voids. It's midnight black sanded grout.










This is how I left it to dry last night.










Close-up… didn't work too well. I seem to have a habit of doing things wrong before reading up on how to properly do it. I should have and will use just cement and water to fill in these little buggers. Maybe some color too.










While grouting, I attempted to fix my problem area. When I attempted to remove the wood blocks, the grout stuck to the wood and broke free from the concrete. I did it again using wax paper. Don't know if it'll work yet. Again, I may have to read on the proper way to fix this.









Orbital sander worked great on dry concrete. Very dusty and went thru pads quick. You can shape rads just like you would in wood. Next time, I am not going to wast time caulking the corners. I am a terrible caulker and it's too easy to put them in with sand paper. On the right, I wet-sanded. This didn't work well. I kept getting a course slurry that was defeating the purpose of using fine grits. I see the need for a wet stone polisher.










Close-up after sanding.

I've got to run. I have a lot more to say but no time.


----------



## Jimthecarver (Jan 14, 2008)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Filling Small Pits and Repair Job*
> 
> Late for a party so I have to be quick
> 
> ...


A few years back I was working on a refurb of an old train station and there was alot of holes and spalding in the concrete block and beams. To repair some spots I used a slury mix on the clean preped area as a primer. I was informed this method would create a better bond when applying the finish coat in the holes or spalded areas.
There is a product on the market for polishing marble tiles or granit tops. They fit a small 4 inch grinder and there is four different wheels in the box starting from course to fine. 
Quick crete if 5000 psi crete I think it should polish up very nicely with those type of wheels w/o using a wet stone that takes many fingers off. 
I watched terrazo being installed and almost all of the guys that used wet stone grinders were missing fingers. 
If you go to a store that sells tile and or marble tiles they should beable to order or have polishing wheels on hand.
I hope this may have been of some help to you.
Good luck.


----------



## Siegel_KenEvil (Aug 18, 2010)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Filling Small Pits and Repair Job*
> 
> Late for a party so I have to be quick
> 
> ...


Hey Jim,

Good bonding tip. I was recently told concrete wont stick to concrete. They sell bonding primers but I rather try your method.

since seeing this article… http://www.concretedecor.net/All_Access/702/CD702-Technique.cfm I've been looking into getting a Makita PW5001C 4-inch Electronic Wet Stone Polisher. It sounds like what you are describing but the description sounds like what you are warning against. "stone polisher" must be too vague of a term. If you can take a look and answer this, is the Makita something that will or will not easily take off my finger?

This tool is going to cost me over $250 if I decide to buy it but the pads look pricey too. I didn't price pads separately but if I buy the polisher with a few pads, the price goes up to $450.


----------



## Siegel_KenEvil (Aug 18, 2010)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Filling Small Pits and Repair Job*
> 
> Late for a party so I have to be quick
> 
> ...


The 2nd repair attempt seems to have worked. After 16 hours of curing, I removed the blocks and wax paper and was easily able to sand it flush using regular 120 grit sand paper.










The red blotches are supposed to say "before" and "after"


----------



## Cantputjamontoast (Jan 1, 2009)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Filling Small Pits and Repair Job*
> 
> Late for a party so I have to be quick
> 
> ...


At the precast plant I worked at we had a guy named Joe(his real name) "The Patch Man".

Joe was a great patch guy who took a tremendous amout of pride in his work.

One day Joe had to patch a big(2' x 3' ) oops on the corner of a box culvert joint that was like 12' span by 7' rise. A substanial chunk of product with a huge defect. The company had to produce about 100 of these for a stream re-routing.

Joe pacthed it up and the Asst. Plant mgr came out to see how he was doing. He asked Joe which one it was, with great pride and a mutual admiration Joe said' "F you go find it yourself". There were about 20 lined up and with some difficulty he was able to find the patched item.

Did I mention Joe had one arm and was a victim of the drug Thalidomide(spelling?)? Joe was never to be held back by this he used to tell his nieces and nephews "a big bear ate it off". I don't think those kids were ever much for camping!!!

Looking at this from afar you can patch and grind but remember you are thinking about a $250 tool for $30 worth of concrete. At which point do you re-use your form ammending some surfaces with formica, vibrating it better taking some other advice here? Pour another one, chaulk the first up to education and use it as a slop sink in a utility room. I think it looks great as is, but you could patch forever and still not be happy.


----------



## Siegel_KenEvil (Aug 18, 2010)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Filling Small Pits and Repair Job*
> 
> Late for a party so I have to be quick
> 
> ...


Joe sounds like a stand-up guy. I wish more people with challenges had his attitude.

I'm taking this one to the end before I scrap it or use it in the garage but I have consider it. Even if I was going to scrap it, I'd still polish, stain, and seal it so that I can see what kind of results I'd get with my processes. Also, most the work was in the form which is maybe why this is appropriate for this forum. The last two posts were less than an hour of work each. I figure I'm about 5 hours away from finishing.

The tool is a little tough to swallow. The plan is to do all my countertops in my house and then continue doing it for cash. If I really do that, then the tool isn't a bad idea. There is always the chance I buy the tool and never do another counter-top in which case, I think I'll have an over-priced angle grinder.


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## Siegel_KenEvil (Aug 18, 2010)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Filling Small Pits and Repair Job*
> 
> Late for a party so I have to be quick
> 
> ...


I just read this article.

http://www.concretecountertopinstitute.com/modules/smartsection/item.php?itemid=99

It appears the correct way to fill voids is to sand up to 200 grit, then grout. Next time.


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## Siegel_KenEvil (Aug 18, 2010)

*Final Entry*

This will be my final blog entry. I'll post a finished project after applying calk and getting the plumbing done. The below image shows what it will look like but it's not really plumbed. Need the finish to harden first.










Since my last entry, I filled in the voids again with just a cement/water mix and sanded to 200 grit with and orbital sander. A little hand work was required in the corners. I then used a copper sulfate (root killer) / water mix for the color according to the instructions here… http://www.stainedfloor.com/Copper_Recipes.html










The above shows the concrete stained before being washed off with water.










In the mean time, I created my manifold for the drain. I don't think the o-ring idea (described on previous posts) will work because the concrete isn't flat enough. I'll probably load it up with silicone when I screw it to the bottom side.










This is what I chose for the finish because of the direct contact with water. The instructions are easy to follow and give specific instructions for concrete application. It feels like plastic so some may consider that a draw back. My only advice here is if you are going to use a bristle brush (I think that's what they recommend), make sure it's a good one. I started with a cheap one and ended up with a bunch of bristles in the finish. I switched to foam brushes and it seemed to work good.










Here are close-ups of some interesting results










This is how it sits now. I put on my first coat in the garage. I then installed it on the cabinet with liquid nails. There were a few accidents creating chips and scratches in the finish so a second coat was required. What the above picture shows is the wet second application after sanding with 320 grit sand paper.


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## ClayOrtiz (Jan 1, 2010)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Final Entry*
> 
> This will be my final blog entry. I'll post a finished project after applying calk and getting the plumbing done. The below image shows what it will look like but it's not really plumbed. Need the finish to harden first.
> 
> ...


Man, that is really cool. I have been thinking of building an outdoor table with a top like that. Now I'm going to have to read the rest of your blog to get caught up. Thanks for posting.


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## Pawky (Sep 22, 2010)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Final Entry*
> 
> This will be my final blog entry. I'll post a finished project after applying calk and getting the plumbing done. The below image shows what it will look like but it's not really plumbed. Need the finish to harden first.
> 
> ...


I've missed the last few of your blog entries, and seeing it now after a bit of work it is looking fantastic! Very nice job


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## Siegel_KenEvil (Aug 18, 2010)

Siegel_KenEvil said:


> *Final Entry*
> 
> This will be my final blog entry. I'll post a finished project after applying calk and getting the plumbing done. The below image shows what it will look like but it's not really plumbed. Need the finish to harden first.
> 
> ...


Clay, it's so easy. Don't be intimated especially if it's just a table top. I'm probably going to make a dinning room table myself. You almost can't screw it up. All my screw-ups turned into interesting characteristics. It's also inexpensive so it's affordable to start over. Check out my nativity stable in projects. I poured that thing 3 to 4 times before getting something I liked.


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