# Straight edge guide for Circular Saw



## SmoggieInCanada

Hi all,

This is my first post on here, I've been looking through the marvelous projects on here for a few weeks and reading through the forums.

After reading a post on how it can be unsafe to rip 4×8 sheets on a table saw and seeing people recommend a straight edge I took a look at them online and found they can be an expensive purchase.

My questions:

What straight edge or straight edge guide for circular saws would you recommend to someone for under $100?

Kreg has a straight edge guide, would this make a good purchase? http://www.kregtool.com/RipCut-Prodview.html

Thank you


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## Charlie5791

Peter,
BUILD one! 
Get a sheet of 1/2" plywood. Cut about a 4 inch strip off one long edge. Doesn't have to be a perfect straight cut, but do the best you can. What you're after is that nice straight factory edge. Now cut another strip off that same side of the plywood about 10 or 12 inches wide.

Your circular saw base has what I call a "fat" side and a "skinny" side. In other words, the blade isn't in the center. There's about 3 or 4 inches of base on one side of the blade and only an inch or inch and a half on the other. So that wide side is the "fat" side.

Take that first long strip with the factory edge and screw it to the wider strip such that, if you set your circular saw against the factory edge, you'll be cutting off some of the wider strip. Now do exactly that. Run your saw against the factory edge and trim off the excess from the wider strip.

You now have a saw guide. No need to measure offsets to make up for how much base you have on one side of the blade. There's a picture of my 4 footer in this thread

What do you do with all that extra plywood? Go to the OTHER long edge and make another saw guide, but make this one about 5 feet. And another about 3 feet.

To USE this saw guide set it right on your marks on the KEEPER side of whatever sheetgoods you're cutting.

And you'll STILL have plywood left over for making other jigs and stuff. So get nice plywood!


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## miles125

Build you a supporting table around your TS so you can rip plywood sheets. Having a table saw you can't rip plywood on is like having a car you can't drive out of your neighborhood.


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## wapakfred

Building one as Charlie suggested would be my recommendation as well. That gives you a guide that you can set the edge exactly on the cut line and get the results you want.


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## jmos

I agree with Charlie and Fred. But, if you don't want to go to the trouble, you can just use any straight piece of stock, clamp it to a board, and cut away. It takes more time to set up since you have to account for the distance from the edge of the base plate to the blade, and it can leave marks on the work from the saw, but it works fine.

Alternately, there are lots of cheap aluminum guides that have built in clamps you can pick up for not too much. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=25134&site=ROCKLER They are handy, in that you don't need extra clamps, but have the same drawbacks as listed above.

I don't have any experience wit the type of guide you link to, but I would be concerned about them shifting slightly during use giving a wavy line. Doesn't seem as bullet-proof as a straight edge. But, I could be wrong on that.

Now, if you decide to get into big money you can use a track saw, but they are all pretty pricey.


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## SmoggieInCanada

Thanks for the advice,

I was working in the advice from this question regarding TS and sheet goods http://lumberjocks.com/topics/37683 the common theme seemed to be that it is unsafe to use a TS for this type of work, only a few people advocated the use of it. Being a beginner I want to keep myself as safe as possible, after all i need my fingers for typing at work!


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## Sawkerf

How about guides for under $5.00 each? I use quite a bit of 1/4"and 1/2" ply for the cabinets I build, and invariably have long strips left over. I use a piece of 1/4" approx 6" - 8" wide for a base, and attach a narrower piece (~2" wide) of 1/2" to it with an exposure slightly wider than my circ saw's base plate.

I run the saw down the guide along the edge of the 1/2" and rip away a bit of the 1/4". When I'm done, I have a guide with a width exactly matched to my circ saw. I can mark my ply, align my guide with the marks, clamp it down and make my cut exactly where it should be.

I have guides for both circ saws as well as one of my routers. They're easy to make, cheap, and make use of scrap that would otherwise get tossed in the trash.


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## Gene01

Charlie and sawkerf have the right idea. If you want a bit more accuracy for a few bucks more, you can build your own "track saw" wannabe. 
Just start with 3/4 ply (I used Baltic Birch), rout a channel for an aluminum T-track. I got mine from Peachtree. Attach their miter T-Bar to the sole plate of your saw, insuring it is square to the blade. 
With this modification, I can take plywood directly from the breakdown table to the project without needing to true up the cut on the table saw.


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## Charlie5791

Peter,
That thread you referred to is good. Take this away from these conversations….

If you have a large shop and you can afford the real estate necessary to construct a proper setup for ripping 4×8 sheet goods, then it can be done safely, even by just one person. You need a LOT of dedicated space to pull that off and have the sheets properly and safely supported both on the infeed and outfeed sides.

My shop is only 18×16 feet. That's it. No extra for storage. Everything has to fit and be useable in that space. I can't afford the permanent table space for large infeed/outfeed. This is where it becomes necessary to break things down on a cutting table (even a temporary one like mine) . In my case I also have to factor in my age and a couple of physical limitations.

The simple edge guide I referred to allows you to cut about as accurately as you can measure. Set the edge on the line and go. No having to measure the offset of your saw base and then set your guide back "x" number of inches from where you actually want to cut. Set it on the line, clamp it, and make your cut. It really is that simple.

And the money you save can be put towards more wood or tools!


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## dhazelton

That Kreg unit looks like it might wobble with such a short leg that rides against the outer edge. I bought the aluminum clamping rails from Rockler when they were on sale. They're nice, adjustable, and come with a lifetime guarantee from Emerson (I think it's a different Emerson). But I've already noticed that the clamping pawl leaves a nick in the steel rod that runs the length of the rail. I could see if these get heavy use that it might present a problem down the road, but with a lifetime guarantee they SHOULD send you a new rod if you ever need one. They offer a saw plate and router plate for these as well, so one rail and many options.


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## SnowyRiver

I use a straight edge similar to the picture below. I use a 50" one. You can get these longer like 100" but I find once I cut the sheet shorter I can manage it on the table saw. This straight edge simply clamps on the edges of the plywood. It works well.

They cost about $50


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## patron

in job site situations 
i have used the side straight edge
(whether straight ply 
or a guide like *snowriver's*)
and just cut into a piece of scrap
and make two blocks of each

one set for the inside of the kerf
the other for the outside of the kerf
and use them for setting up the guide offset
just don't get them mixed together
as they are very close in size
and can make the cut off of parallel


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## SmoggieInCanada

Charlie,

That is pretty much what I took from the article as well as the TS for sheets is also a more experienced woodworker task. I do only have a small 2 car garage to work in and right now I don't even have a workbench (that will be the first project). I'm going to make the workbench be an outfeed table for the table saw and also use the off-cuts to make a smaller pedestal for my router table.

Dhazleton, thats what I was wondering when I was looking at it, that it didn't look supported enough and also looked like if too much force was applied it would twist slightly.

Gene that seems like a good modification of the basic plywood straight edge and would help when I get a router instead of the router table.

I would like to try and make some plywood straight edges but I think they may have to wait, I'll try and get one of the clamps as per SnowRivers post. The reason for this is that I have to get sheet goods delivered as I only drive a small family car (I know, I know I need to upgrade to something else). I had already ordered the two sheets I needed for some built ins and a workbench top when we ordered some drywall and insulation for the basement reno we are doing right now, therefore the money isn't there to have any decent length of wood delivered just yet.

Patron, I understand what you are saying with regards to inside the kerf and outside the kerf, but I'm not understanding the application of this? Should the edge not always place the kerf to the outside of the desired length i.e. into the excess? can you explain further for me?

Thank you all for your feedback, I wasn't expecting such detailed responses!


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## RussellAP

You could use an 8' level as well, I use mine all the time for this. just don't clamp it too tight.


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## renners

Before I took the plunge and bought my plunge saw (aka track saw), I got by using a home made zero clearance saw guide which I read about on Lumberjocks.

I made mine with a slight difference, the left side is for the saw, the right side has a zero clearance for a 12.7mm router bit in my 1/2" Dewalt router.

Making one is easy, it's very accurate and cheap (in fact it didn't cost anything as I made it out of scraps). Getting the first straight edge is the the difficult part, you can make one any size you want as well for ripping or crosscutting.


















This guide is made with the wide part of the saws' base plate running against the straight edge, to help it from tipping at an angle.


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## bandit571

well, for one thing, see IF the place where you are buying the plywood will offer to cut it to a size you need. Most "Yards" will do the first cut for FREE!

Next, I have on some jobsites added a 1x to the sole of my circ.saw. I used to have a couple holes in one, where I screwed a 1x in place for a LOT of cuts. I have also "C" clamped a straight 2x to some plywood sheets. failling to find such a thing as a straight 2x, or even a 1x, I have grabbed some angle iron, and clamped it down. I mark a line with the chalk line, measure for the "offset' to a fence, mark for the fence, and ripped away. Did a LOT of concrete formwork, and somedays, the "ready-made" stuff ain't gonna do it. Then I'd have to bring out the plywood, and make my own forms. Dock leveler pits were the main culprit, odd sized openings to form up. 2×4s and 3/4plywood, cut to size, installed and ready to pour in a morning's work. Not bad when it is just a couple, gets a might grumpy when there 20 to form and pour that day.


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## SmoggieInCanada

Bandit there is a store that offers cutting of the plywood but I would be unable to get an 8ft x 6inch board in my car, I may have to recruit a buddy to help. It will work for a smaller piece though. I could see how that many forms to create would get tedious after a while!


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## Bertha

Peter, I bought a Swanson cheapo at Lowes for $20 or so. It's relatively straight, best I can tell, but it uses simple c-clamps. Like you, I wanted a nice set but I was surprised by the prices. If I can make a straight edge slip and ruin my piece, I'll do it. I was always sheepish about the ones with the integrated clamps.


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## BobM001

I use a 9 foot piece of 1.5"x1.5"x .25" aluminum angle and c clamps for the long side cuts. That has been adapted with screw holes for truing a bowed board on a table saw. For short side cutting a 2"x 3/8"x 52" piece of aluminum bar and c clamps works for me. Wood is good. The above "dual purpose" setup is nice. I go for portability.


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## patron

here is what i meant
make two of each

start by cutting into piece of scrap
with edge guide









and make an inside set
to the closest to the guide









and one set for the other side of kerf









now you can use any straight edge for the guide
(level or straight board)
and use whichever set you like
to cut your line
(sometimes you can't get to the direction you need 
to cut only the inside cut
(like if you want to make narrower strips
and don't have room for the guide to clamp to)
so the out side works 
if you want the off-cut to be the full size piece

here they are in use
lay them to the straight edge
and on the cut line both ends
(pencil line is not to clear
in this picture)
and clamp (or pin or tape) the straight edge









remove them and save for next time
and make the cut









and you have your cut board ready









i have made longer (12') ones 
like *renners* shows above
and had one side for 90 deg. cuts
and the other side for beveled cuts

if you use his for the router
be sure to mark the jig 
for which router
and what bit
as they are all different 
and can screw the work up
with say a wider bit or narrower base on the router


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## peterbb

One thing to consider when making a home-brew guide: make the thing wide enough so that the saw motor won't hit the clamps holding the guide to the workpiece!


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## stevenmadden

*Peter*: I realize that this is not what you are looking for, but I thought I would make sure that you knew it was out there. I recently purchased this track saw by DeWalt (http://www.dewalt.com/tools/saws-track-saws-dws520ck.aspx). It has completely changed the way that I break down sheet good, which seems to be the least of what it is capable of. I also have a couple of DeWalt routers that fit an attachment which allows the routers to ride along the track, which makes setting up and cutting dados (and more) very easy. It is a very simple and easy to use system. I know that Festool and Makita make similar saws. Again, just an FYI.

Steven


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## SmoggieInCanada

Wow so much detail thank you Patron, I fully understand you now, and I see how having those templates will allow quick straight edge setup in the future.

Renners is another good idea for dual purpose.

Thanks for the warning Peter, you were right to warn me I wouldn't have thought of that until it was too late!!!

Bertha, Lowes just opened up a store here in Calgary I've yet to go inside it though. I'm 5 mins away from a home depot and typically use them right now for the basement modifications but also use Windsor Plywood and another smaller lumber yard for my woodworking needs. If it makes you feel any better I always find if something can go wrong it does for me! I never thought I'd make stupid mistakes with this stuff but I invariably find new ways to surpass myself!


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## Racer2007

You could try this one from Harbor Freight for $21.99 . I have the 24" version of it and it works fine, I plan on getting this one next time I go by the store.
http://www.harborfreight.com/50-inch-clamp-and-cut-edge-guide-66581.html


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## KenBee

I have the 12, 24, 36 and 50 inch Emerson straight edges like snowyriver. I also made one each like renners for both sides of my circular saw, full size router, trim router, jigsaw and Rockwell VersaSaw that are 13, 25, 37 and 49 inches long for each tool. I made them so changing sides the 2 Routers use the same jig, the Rockwell VersaSaw and jig saw use the same jig and the circular saw use the same jig for each side. I have them marked so I know which side to use for each tool. I used 1/4 inch tempered hardboard for the base and 3 inch wide by 1 inch thick oak for the straight edge.


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## Sirgreggins

the rip cut is great. I just swapped out the plastic guide with a piece of plywood with oak edging. It's much longer and gives more support. This is what i use when i need to make repeatable cuts. Otherwise fro just breaking down sheet goods nothing is cheaper than 1/4" hardboard and with an mdf baseboard as a diy cheap track saw


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