# WORKSHARP WS3000 Great sharpner - I'm in love



## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

Mike-Their 'Wide Blade Attachment' is worth adding … it provides a platform to the left of the platter that you can use with the jig they provide with it, or other sharpening jigs.

I like mine and use it a good deal. The only problem I have had was getting the skew adjustment right … it is finicky!

-Gerry


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## Viking (Aug 26, 2009)

Mike;

Got one for my birthday and have done a few chisels that came out very sharp in a short time spent. Even reclaimed one that had been used to construction adhesive from concrete. Thought that one was a goner but, is now better than new.

Using the top surface to flatten the backs of chisels is a snap and very fast.

Bought the "Wide Blade" attachment for some plane irons from a couple of planes I plan to restore in the future.

Thanks for the review.


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

I'm told those are quite inherently dangerous.

You REALLY ought to send yours to me.

Yeah. I'm THAT much of a buddy ;-)


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## woodmaker (Jan 12, 2011)

Wide blade attachment? 
Isn't that just a honing guide? It's $89.00 0n their site which seems outrageous to me. 
Flattening the chisels and plane irons was a snap, I mean it was even fun. I'm 61 and not into manual labor. HA HA !
NBeener you ain't right! Okay neiher am I so we would get along just fine. LOL!


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

Mike-Amazon has them for $54.95. It is more than just a honing guide … it has a table/plate which attaches to the back of the 3000, a guide that holds the blade, and a bevel setter.

I have used the table on mine to put a mirror polish on the sole of one of my jack planes.

-Gerry


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## woodmaker (Jan 12, 2011)

Gerry, I'll check that out for sure then.
I appreciate your response.


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## davidmicraig (Nov 21, 2009)

Sharpening was always one of those things that seem to allude me until I got one of these. Best 200 bucks I ever spent. The refill sanding packs can be a little expensive so I tend to purchase large packs of sanding discs, punch a hole in the center and trim around the edges. For higher grits, check with auto body repair sites. They carry the high grits for refinishing.

Congrats on the new sharpener,

David


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## Viking (Aug 26, 2009)

David;

We found that you can get reasonably good prices on Amazon for all the accessories and supplies for the Worksharp 3000.

Good Luck!


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## woodmaker (Jan 12, 2011)

Thanks David, David, and all.

I will follow yall's advice.


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## ChunkyC (Jun 28, 2009)

I bought the wide blade attachment for mine and I seldom use it. All of my plane irons are 2" or less so they fit nicely in the "chisel" slot. The only time I use the table is when I need to sharpen a plane iron with a camber.

My honing guide that can with the wide blade attachment was junk. It only rested on three points and I remember that one of the rollers got a flat spot. I can't remember now. I just seen recently in a magazine, SHopnotes?, where a guy made a table for his.  I'll see if I can find it…

I did get the knife sharpening attachment for mine. Love that thing.


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## woodmaker (Jan 12, 2011)

Ah yes the knife sharpener; my wife says I have to buy that 1st so her kitchen knives can be bought back to life.


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## ChunkyC (Jun 28, 2009)

Woodsmith 197










The article has a drawing and some detail. The one thing that I saw was I wondered how you were to adjust the table so that it's in the same plane as the sandpaper.

c


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

*Before you buy the wide blade attachment, watch this coming weekend's episode of Blue Collar Woodworking (my show). It's all about tricking out a worksharp 3000 including making your own wide blade attachment and other accesories!*


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## StuUSA (Jan 16, 2010)

Woodmaker - thanks for your great review! My new WS3000 is arriving tomorrow, and your enthusiasm gives me some reassurance that I spent my money wisely.

Hey StumpyNubs - I'm really looking forward to seeing what you got going this Saturday! Maybe a "Troll" can learn something from a "Yooper"…who knows?

StuUSA (more specifically SW Michigan)


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## ACP (Aug 10, 2009)

Chunky, I think as long as your bevel angle is consistent your ok. The 400, 1000, and the honing discs are pretty consistent thickness. I don't have a dial indicator but I don't adjust the height of mine when I switch paper and my blades are incredibly sharp. This is from the top or bottom. The wide blade attachment opens this tool up to so much more, but like said, it is finicky to lock in level. A PITA really. I am looking to get the DMT dics and would love to hear from anyone that has one on their durability and value to longetivity.


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## ChunkyC (Jun 28, 2009)

I have a set of the course DMT's. LOVE THEM! I've only been using them for a short time but they really take the metal off in a hurry without putting a lot of heat in the tool. Because I switch back an forth, the DMT's sit higher than the paper, hence the need for table adjustments.


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

*I'll be covering this on my show this weekend (Stumpynubs.com) *but I made new discs and use buffing compounds instead of the expensive sandpaper for honing above 120 grit and it works great! I also made a stand that works as the large blade attachment with disc storage and a drawer built in, and I figured out a way to use those amazing Tormek jigs with the Worksharp. *You'll want to see this one…*

As for the grits being different thickness… The course grits are thick, and it gets thinner as you work to finer ones. THis means the blade angle tilts down a very small amount, which is just fine. It creates a microbevel for the finest grits. Some people do that intentionally, creating three or four steeper bevel angles for the finest honing. *Of course the system I devised makes this a non issue anyway…*


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

Stumpy-In the TV biz, your posts would be called pretty effective teases. I'm waiting with baited breath!

-Gerry


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## richgreer (Dec 25, 2009)

I own this tool and I like it as long as I use if for what it is intended for.

I originally tried to sharpen lathe cutting tools (gouges, skews etc.). It was not intended for that and it does not work well for that.


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

I have one and hardly ever use it, instead I use scary sharpening. My next move will be diamond sharpening stones, as when you buy one it last you a life time. 
Disks for the 3000 are just too expensive and scary sharpening can also become quite expensive.


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

*Rich*- With practice, the Worksharp sharpens turning tools quite well by freehanding with the see-through discs. I also devised a way to use the Tormek gouge jig on it.

*b2rtch*- I use buffing compounds instead of the paper on mine. It costs almost nothing.


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## AZMac (Jan 10, 2011)

I have one and I love it. Stumpy Nubs I'll be look for your show.


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## ACP (Aug 10, 2009)

They also made a bar recently that allows you to use the Tormeck jigs. I don't turn anymore but it would have been a huge benefit when I did. I can't wait to see your video stumpy. The discs are too expensive. They are cheaper through amazon though. That's why I was wondering about the DMT discs.


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## ChuckC (May 13, 2010)

You can already use the Tormek jigs with this attachment:
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/worksharp-3000-tool-bar-attachment.aspx


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## dfdye (Jan 31, 2010)

After realizing the true cost of replacing the sandpaper disks on this thing, I sprung for some DMT "stones" for rough work (I use an Eclipse style honing guide to keep things consistent). They actually save me time vs. the Worksharp since I can do directly from one stone to the other without having to switch platters. I also found out that I hate the way the "ramp" on the WS scratches the polished backs of my chisels, so I don't bother with the ramp any more. What I DO like about the WS is how quickly it can flatten the back of an old chisel with some aggressive zirconium oxide sandpaper, but I was never able to properly land a chisel, so a few of my junky paint can openers have deep gouges on the back, or even worse, rounded edges!

So, here are my quick tips for tuning up a WS system:

1) Ditch the stock sandpaper and get zirconium oxide sheets. Use spray adhesive to mount the paper and trim to fit. This paper lasts a TON longer and is great at cutting steel. Better yet, ditch the sandpaper for everything except grinding backs of blades and use stones for routine sharpening up to the honing step.

2) Get a deadman foot pedal to control the power. IMHO this is CRITICAL for flattening the backs of blades-I place the blade back flat on the platter and then use the foot switch to power on the grinder. Works like a charm! (Be sure to let the disk stop spinning before you pick the blade up or you risk rounding over the edge. I will let you guess how I know this. . . )

3) Ditch the leather hone-it is too soft and seems to round edges slightly, making re-sharpening take too long (at least in my experience). Instead, get some kraft paper, a paper grocery bag, or some stiff cardboard (think cereal box) and mount that to a glass platter with spray adhesive. Slowly swipe a chromium oxide crayon (the dark green honing compound waxy stick/brick) across the surface of the paper a couple of times and you have a dirt cheap hone that will be stiff enough to minimize the round-over that sometimes makes leather strops a pain.

4) Avoid the ramp like the plague. The sandpaper that comes sized for the ramp is ~400 grit, if memory serves, and the back of the blades should be polished well past that. Every time you "plunge" using the ramp, it means additional work getting the deep scratches out of your exquisitely polished back. I tried using 1 micron honing film on the ramp, and I noticed that the grits from coarse papers would come off (as they are supposed to-friable abrasives are a good thing!), get lodged in the honing film, and leave deep scratches despite the fine film on the ramp. I always work on the top of the platter to avoid this grit contamination conundrum.

There are a ton more that others have covered, but I really like the idea of building a platform so that you can use a honing guide with the top of the platter. This solves the ramp issue quite nicely!

After having tried to exclusively use the WS for sharpening, I can honestly say that it is not right for me. I still use it for honing (and boy does it do a great job making things shiny quickly!), but don't use a guide. I start by "rocking" the bevel flat on the platter while it is at rest, then I use the foot switch to start it up, and after I am comfortable that I am square on the bevel, I barely lift the back end of the blade. After a bit of practice, I can consistently hone a micro-bevel by feel since I don't have to push a blade back and forth, but can instead concentrate on just moving the back of my blade and letting the feel of the system let me know when I am done.

This may not be the way the WS was engineered to be used, but this works for me!


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

*Chuck*- Yes, Worksharp came out with a Tormek attachment this month. But it's $60 and only works on the worksharp. If you want to use the jigs on the grinder too, that's another $80. My way uses a commercial bar (made by Jet) and is easy to swap between the WS, a grinder, whatever you want… for $20.

*dfdye*-I love the ramp, it makes touching up a chisel a breeze, no need to set a jig, it's like free handing for those of us who aren't great at it! By using buffing compounds instead of sand paper, the blade doesn't heat up. So you don't have to do the in and out plung movements. That means the 400 grit paper on the ramp doesn't touch the chisel or plane iron edge.

Also, MDF discs are great for honing instead of the leather. Plus, they're CHEAP! What I do is I use 80 grit paper with spray adhesive if I need to completely redo a bevel (like a chipped edge or a rusty chisel). Then I work up to 120 with paper on MDF discs. That restores the chisel (or plane iron). Then sandpaper never has to be used again. All the honing, and the subsequent resharpening is done with four discs with different buffing compounds which cost almost nothing when compared to the sandpaper, don't heat up at all, and work great!

I like your idea about the foot switch. I might have to try that out!


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## Bsmith (Feb 2, 2011)

I think everyone got a Worksharp for Christmas but me. And I want one! Stumpy, when can we expect your video review. Looking forward to it.


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

It'll be part of this Saturday's show at Stumpynubs.com.


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## Dusty56 (Apr 20, 2008)

Hi Stumpy , is your show going to be a one time viewing , or can we watch it at will ?
Thanks


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

No, it'll be like any of the episodes. It'll be on LJ's Friday evening or Saturday morning, and then you can watch it or any past episodes any time you like for free at Stumpynubs.com. This episode will cover not just a review, but show how to make the extras for it I mentioned above.

Sorry, woodmaker… didn't mean to hijack your review!


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## Dusty56 (Apr 20, 2008)

Thanks SNubs : ) 
I only asked because I'm sure others will want to know as well. Otherwise , I would have pm'd you : )


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

OK- my video of the Upgrades I made:


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