# Carving Tools - Brand Recommendations?



## Underdog (Oct 29, 2012)

I'm looking for a 1/2" x 60degree V-Parting Tool, and want your recommendations and/or comments on these *brands.* If you want to comment on specific tools, that's fine, but I primarily want input from folks with experience with the following *brands.*
They're all around the same price ~50. Some lower, some higher.
So I've found these:

*Henry Taylor* at Lee Valley

*Pfeil *at WoodCraft

*Stubai* at Whittling Shack

*Lamp* & *MasterCarver* ($20!) at Woodcarver's Supply

and

*Hirsch* at Highland Woodworking - I'm leaning toward this one, because Highland is almost local and it'll probably get here before Christmas. Any reason not to?

Thanks in advance!


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

I have several of the Pfeil tools and they are excellent. I'm sure you can't go wrong with any of the ones you listed though.


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## Underdog (Oct 29, 2012)

Thanks Rich.

Those MasterCarver are Chinese made, and I wonder how they are at $20. It's tempting to get a couple different things just to try them out. I've had a couple of Chinese made HSS turning tools from HF and they're not too bad if you're not expecting too much.


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## Phil32 (Aug 31, 2018)

Given the COVID pandemic, you will likely mail order your choice. But if you are actually holding them in your hands, check to see that the wings of your V-tool are the same thickness. It is nearly impossible to properly sharpen one that has unequal sides. 
Regarding the V angle, Pfeil offers five angles, where many others offer only 60 degrees. It appears that Henry Taylor makes only a 1/4" wide V-tool, and Stubai only the 1/2" wide. Pfeil offers nine widths of its #12 (60 deg) V-tools plus six widths of its long bent or spoon bent versions.


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

I don't have any of those brands but Ashley Iles makes a 60 deg v-tool in the size you want. I have a 3/8" one and like it a lot. I prefer the handle over the octagonal ones and the profile is very even and symmetric.


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## Underdog (Oct 29, 2012)

> But if you are actually holding them in your hands, check to see that the wings of your V-tool are the same thickness. It is nearly impossible to properly sharpen one that has unequal sides.
> - Phil32


I've read that in my Chris Pye book. I think I've even seen a YouTube video talking about that. I have at least one, maybe two, V-tools where that is the case. One is the HF cheapie. What did I expect! Ha ha! I also have what used to be a good quality one, but the steel is so pitted it's impossible to get a straight cutting edge… Too bad. And then I have a couple of really small 60 degree at 3/16" or so. Too small really.

So… that's why I'm looking for a decent one.

I'm reading my Charles Marshall Sayers; *The Book of Wood Carving, Technique, Designs, and Projects.* He's recommending the 
#39-1/2" V-parting tool, 
#5×5/8" straight gouge, 
#3×1" straight gouge, and a 
#7×3/8" straight gouge.

I think I can get by with a couple of my gouges that are close to the #7×3/8" 
- I've got a 
Henry Taylor #8×7/16" and
Buck #7×5/16 (or #6×1/4" hard to tell) and a
Burley #7×1/4".

But all the others I'd probably need to buy. Although I might get by with my Buck #4×3/4 for the #5×3/4". It'd be nice to have the right sweeps though.

I got a pile of old used gouges from my Dad a few years back. I'm finally figuring out what they are, and trying to get them into shape. Several are junk, but many just need some TLC, handles and sharpening.


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## mpounders (Jun 22, 2010)

Pfeil is always a great choice and I own 14 or so, but I am curious why you need such a large one? Not sure what you are carving or what size, but you can make a V shaped groove in wood several different ways. The Stubai is probablly good also, since you are getting it from the Whittling Shack.


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## Underdog (Oct 29, 2012)

> Pfeil is always a great choice and I own 14 or so, but I am curious why you need such a large one? Not sure what you are carving or what size, but you can make a V shaped groove in wood several different ways. The Stubai is probablly good also, since you are getting it from the Whittling Shack.
> 
> - mpounders


Why such a big one? Well, because this guy recommended it for the carvings in this book below.
So what size would you recommend Mike?
By the way, the Stubai and the Hirsch are the same price at $44.


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## Underdog (Oct 29, 2012)

> Given the COVID pandemic, you will likely mail order your choice. But if you are actually holding them in your hands, check to see that the wings of your V-tool are the same thickness. It is nearly impossible to properly sharpen one that has unequal sides.
> Regarding the V angle, Pfeil offers five angles, where many others offer only 60 degrees. It appears that Henry Taylor makes only a 1/4" wide V-tool, and Stubai only the 1/2" wide. Pfeil offers nine widths of its #12 (60 deg) V-tools plus six widths of its long bent or spoon bent versions.
> 
> - Phil32


Actually Henry Taylor makes a 3/8 wide V-tool: https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/carving-tools/gouges/111767-henry-taylor-60-straight-parting-tools?item=58D3906


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## Underdog (Oct 29, 2012)

> I don t have any of those brands but Ashley Iles makes a 60 deg v-tool in the size you want. I have a 3/8" one and like it a lot. I prefer the handle over the octagonal ones and the profile is very even and symmetric.
> 
> - HokieKen


Unfortunately it's "Not Available".


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

Jim, the 1/2" Ashley Iles is in stock. Happens to be the only size that is currently available.


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## Phil32 (Aug 31, 2018)

In most of the decorative designs on the cover of Sayers' book, the initial stop cuts would require a series of vertical gouge cuts. For example, in the third from the top example, there is no gouge to mark out the S curves in a single step. You would choose any gouge with the proper curvature. You may need to use several different gouges. As pointed out my Mike Pounders, there are multiple ways to make the cuts. Some would do the stop cuts with a knife.


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## Underdog (Oct 29, 2012)

> In most of the decorative designs on the cover of Sayers book, the initial stop cuts would require a series of vertical gouge cuts. For example, in the third from the top example, there is no gouge to mark out the S curves in a single step. You would choose any gouge with the proper curvature. You may need to use several different gouges. As pointed out my Mike Pounders, there are multiple ways to make the cuts. Some would do the stop cuts with a knife.
> 
> - Phil32


That's what he's using the V-Parting tool for though, yes?


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## Phil32 (Aug 31, 2018)

> That s what he s using the V-Parting tool for though, yes?
> 
> - Underdog


No, for me the stop cuts are only the blade thickness of the tool being used. I do not use a V-tool for this purpose because the opposing wings tend to tear out the wood at certain angles across the grain. Some relief carvers don't mind such tearouts because they're expecting trim up the line, but there is no guarantee they won't cross the line.


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## Underdog (Oct 29, 2012)

I just read the text, and he's using the parting tool instead of stop cuts. I guess this way you only have to have a minimum of different sweeps. I can see the advantage of using the gouges for stop cuts, but you have to have quite a variety of sweeps for different stop cuts.
I see Alexander Grabovetskiy has a whole WALL of different gouges… I don't have enough money… Ha ha!


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## Phil32 (Aug 31, 2018)

Yes, I have seen relief carvers who outline the major features of their project with a V-tool groove. I think it is more important to learn the response of the wood to the various tools you may choose to try. Of course the wood varies, but so does the action of different tools. If you choose to have a whole wall of gouges, V-tools, skews, etc., you take on the challenge of knowing how each tool is sharpened. 
Personally, I have reached a point where I use very few tools. I prefer to outline, rough shape, and fine tune a relief with a single fishtail gouge. Sometimes the space between objects in the design require narrow gouges. 
I do not tell other carvers this is the only way. Every carver has to establish for themselves what and how to carve. I believe the statement in my signature, which implies "Real woodcarvers have photos of their successes." When considering someone's advice regarding carving tools, wqod, technique, etc.. be sure to check their Projects.


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## Underdog (Oct 29, 2012)

Surely you've seen Grabovetskiy's work? It's as ornate and delicate as Grinling Gibbons carving… I'd take advice from him if I could afford it.


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## Phil32 (Aug 31, 2018)

> Surely you ve seen Grabovetskiy s work? It s as ornate and delicate as Grinling Gibbons carving… I d take advice from him if I could afford it.
> 
> - Underdog


Is that the type of carving you intend to do?


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## Underdog (Oct 29, 2012)

> Surely you ve seen Grabovetskiy s work? It s as ornate and delicate as Grinling Gibbons carving… I d take advice from him if I could afford it.
> 
> - Underdog
> 
> ...


Well. I guess I haven't given enough thought to that… I'm glad you asked the question and made me stop and think about it.

I do a bit of everything. But I've probably done more small figure carving than anything. I've used a pocketknife for carving pretty much ever since I was old enough to cut myself with one. My main weapon of choice now is a folding razor knife because it's so easy to sharpen. Ha Ha! 
That's not to say I can't sharpen a straight blade though. It's those curved gouges that give me a hard time.

I'm currently carving:

1) A Santa from one of Woodcarving Illustrated plan
2) a pierced love spoon of my own design- a pierced viney/flowery carving- a simpler/cruder style than Grabovetskiy - trying to finish before Christmas, of course.
3) Comfort Birds - I've probably made over 30 the past few months.
4) a small dog with glued-on pattern that was given to me.
5) An simple angel carving, that I think I saw somewhere, but was given to me already sawn out.

I've also done a little bit chip carving, and have a couple of good knives for that.

I'd like to get into some panel /pattern/ relief carving like shown in the above book, and in Trish Irish books. Actually I have several books on carving and have eyed the patterns for quite some time.

I really appreciate good carving and would like to become more proficient. But I need to know if I need more gouges, and finally just decided to get one of those v-parting tools because all of mine are either junk or really small.

Which brings me to the question… most carvers wind up only using a few of their tools most of the time- I think I've read a couple of accounts that vary between 4-7.

So what carving tools do you wind up using most?


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## Dutchy (Jun 18, 2012)

I,m very glad with my Pfeil.


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## controlfreak (Jun 29, 2019)

I have been having fun lurking here. I am not "artistic" but there is something about carving that seems to be calling me. It's like "can I do that". I have much on my plate to start now but I am learning a lot here. Perhaps a book mentioned above is a good starting place.


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## Phil32 (Aug 31, 2018)

> I have been having fun lurking here. I am not "artistic" but there is something about carving that seems to be calling me. It s like "can I do that". I have much on my plate to start now but I am learning a lot here. Perhaps a book mentioned above is a good starting place.
> 
> - controlfreak


As I think back to my own experience, I was given a book as a young boy (in 1947). As I leafed through it I found some things I wanted to try. Those initial projects required only a pocket knife and shop tools. Two years later, I was into relief carving with this gift for my girlfriend, done with palm gouges:


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

> ...
> 
> Which brings me to the question… most carvers wind up only using a few of their tools most of the time- I think I ve read a couple of accounts that vary between 4-7.
> 
> ...


I'm very new to relief carving so take it with a grain of salt. But, based on my limited experience, I think a good general use set is:


1/4 or 3/8 v tool (I like 60 degrees)
1/2" #8 or 9 sweep deep gouge for hogging waste out of areas to be lowered
1/2" #3 for levelling lowered areas
1/4" #5 or 6 to have an intermediate sweep profile and for lowering smaller, tighter areas
1/4 or 3/8" skew chisel because you need something flat and straight and I find a smaller size much more versatile
small (1/8" or smaller) U-gouge or veiner tool for getting into small, tight corners


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## Underdog (Oct 29, 2012)

> I,m very glad with my Pfeil.
> 
> - Dutchy


I've got a Buck in that exact same size. Sure is hard to polish that inside curve! Ha ha! I made the texture for the beard on this Santa Carving with it.


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## Phil32 (Aug 31, 2018)

On my current six month project - poplar, basswood, black walnut:

- #3F - 16mm (fishtail) 
- #3F - 7mm (fishtail)
- #5F - 8mm (fishtail)
- #15 - 3mm (45 deg V)
- knife


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