# Cherry and oil.



## woodrookieII (Feb 9, 2011)

Hi,

This is my first post and it's going to be a question. (surprise!!)

I've just completed a cherry side table stained with Michael's 113 OCS.

I'm undecided about whether to finish it with Tung Oil or the Watco Danish Oil in Natural. It will be one or the other, and my experience has been primarily with Tung Oil.

Is there a real difference between the two?

If I decide to use the Danish, what application process have you all used successfully and what should I look out for?

Thanks,

rookie


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

Rookie, it is difficult to answer your question since "tung oil" and danish oil are terms that are really misused. If the label does not say pure tung oil then the product is largely a wiping varnish similar to danish oil. Here is a blog that was posted some time ago about tung oil. Basically, anything other than pure tung oil, can be a product that ranges from containing some tung oil as a minor component in addition to other oils to a product that only produces a finish similar to pure tung oil.

Watco danish oil is a product that contains *raw* linseed oil, vegetable oil and varnish in a solvent base similar to mineral spirits. I have used danish oil in the past and have gotten by with applying multiple coats in a relatively short time frame. In reality, though, this product has a long cure time due to the raw linseed oil (the vegetable oil will never cure). I would suggest 2 to 4 weeks to allow the linseed oil to cure, depending on your shop temperature.

As far as applying either of the products I would suggest putting them on as wiping varnishes and following the manufacturers directions.


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## hObOmOnk (Feb 6, 2007)

One more time:

The vegetable oil in popular so-called "Danish Oil" products is not salad dressing. It's modified soya oil, which is a drying oil that will cure with time.


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## Howie (May 25, 2010)

I have used both and find that I put the first coat on with a foam brush seems to work. The first coat soaks in therefore it seems to take more to start. I wipe this coat off after 10 or fifteen minutes(don't forget to) after that I use a soft rag balled up to wipe consistently. Again wiping the excess after a few minutes. I usually let dry between coats at least 8 hours-24 is better.
Just my $.02


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

I second what Howie said.

Another good option, IMO, is boiled linseed oil (commonly referred to as BLO). You apply it the same way as Danish oil, but to me it seems to cure a little harder.


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## Wolffarmer (Jul 14, 2009)

I have never used tung oil but have used Watco danish oil and Tried and True danish oil. I prefer the Tried and True. I apply it much as Howie said. Then if possible I put the project in an unused vehicle ( in the warmer months ) and let them cure a few days. Or a few weeks in the house. When i use to work for a computer company call center I loved to apply a coat of oil before work and head to work reeking of dainish oil. It felt good.

Randy


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## woodrookieII (Feb 9, 2011)

Interesting.

Danish oil as a cologne.

But then again, you are a wolf farmer.



....rookie


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## woodrookieII (Feb 9, 2011)

Randy, I must ask.

When applying as a cologne…...do you use a cloth or 0000 steel wool?

.......rookie


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

The best tool for application is a tall, leather-clad lady known as Mistress Helga. But I digress…


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## Wolffarmer (Jul 14, 2009)

LOL

I use T shirt type of rags. Steel wool makes me itchy
Randy


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## cmaxnavy (Dec 23, 2007)

I'm building cabinet doors from cherry and I've used both oils in the finish. I stopped using tung on cherry and decided that watco danish oil is a better match for the cherry woods. It's easier to apply, I use a lint free rag only. I found that tung oil is very labor intensive after 2-3 coats (steel wool rubbing). The watco oil also leaves a beautiful patina, if that's your goal.That said, I'd put two scraps of cherry side-by-side and apply both oils and decide which works for the purpose.


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## JonathanG (Jan 18, 2010)

If you're not in a rush to get it done, I second the 2-scraps of cherry idea with the different finishes in-question. Make sure they're also dyed first, just like your project, in order to get an accurate idea of what each "oil" will look like on your actual project (changing color, sheen, grain highlighting, etc.).

CharlieM and Randy… Hah! Funny!


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## woodrookieII (Feb 9, 2011)

LOL…....I'll need to check with the Mrs. on that Helga suggestion. 

Now….back on topic (I hope).......

Scott, thanks for your insight on oils.

Charles and Jonathan, I've actually already got the scraps finished. Actually I used 1) Minwax Tung Oil, 2) Watco Danish Oil Natural, and 3) Minwax WipeOnPoly Satin. And I kinda like them all. I'm familiar with the use of 1 and 3, but I've heard some good things about 2 particularly with cherry

I'm leaning more and more to Danish. I've used 0000 steel wool in the past to apply Tung at coat 2 and above. Is this something suggested for Danish, or shall I just use a cloth for all coats?

Appreciate your inputs folks.

....rookie


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## JonathanG (Jan 18, 2010)

I haven't applied Danish Oil with steel wool, but have used it after a coat dries, but is not necessarily cured. Just make sure to vacuum, then use a good wiping of mineral spirits or naptha with a clean rag or paper towel after the steel wool to get all the little steel fibers that will be everywhere before applying your next coat of oil or topcoat. You can also wetsand your last coat of danish oil with 600+grit if you want a really smmoth surface, or have any minor defects you might want to fill in.

I need to correct my above post. I said to make sure you dyed them before trying the different oils. I should've said make sure to stain them to match the project piece before applying the different oils. Sorry for any confusion that might've created.


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## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

If you want a really nice look and high durability, this is what I do-

First coat with the minwax Tung oil finish - tung oil poly blend
Steel wool 0000 after about 24 hours, vacumn all the steel wool 
wipe down with lint free cloth and mineral spirits
mix thoroghly satin oil based poly and then dilute 50% with mineral spirits and wipe on with a clean piece of cotton tee shirt material
let dry for at least 24 hours and do this three or four times.

Between poly coats wet sand with 600 grit the first time and 1000 grit after that - use water at first, mineral spirits after that


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## JonathanG (Jan 18, 2010)

That sounds like a pretty solid finishing regimine David.


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## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

Takes a while but the layers are real thin, cures fast, comes out hard, and you can polish a satin finish to a high gloss - if you chose.

If it is on a counter and going to get wet, substitute the poly for spar varnish/poly


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## woodrookieII (Feb 9, 2011)

Ok…here's an update.

Applied a liberal first coat of Watco Danish Oil in Natural with a soft cloth firmly rubbing it in as I went, not wiping it on.

Waited about 5-10 minutes and then rubbed it off, again with another soft cloth with about the same amount of pressure.

I must say that I like these initial results. A nice low luster, not as glossy as Tung.

And smooth. Smooth as a…..well…uh…..smooth as a cars finish that's been worked over with a PC.

....rookieII

p.s.

Charlie, I applied it before I headed into the office here at home at around 7. Good suggestion.
Mentioned your Helga idea to the Mrs., and got one of those "looks".


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## JonathanG (Jan 18, 2010)

Did you just come back after 5-10 minutes, wipe it off, then walk away for quite a while? I tend to check back up on the Danish Oil every 30-45-minutes for a couple of hours, with the reason being that you can get bleed back, where the pores of the wood will begin to fill-up, then leech the oil mix back to the surface. If you let it go too long, since it is a mix of oil and other hardeners, you may have a problem with the various components rising back to the surface, then drying on you, or at least gumming up. If it's only a little bit, and not big sappy-looking areas, the next coat of danish oil and/or mineral spirits will tend to dissolve it with a bit of extra elbow grease.

I just find it easier to be proactive and check up on it. If you do see any leeching back out, simply wipe it off as you did with the initial first wipe off. That procedure tends to work for me.


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## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

That is good to know, I have never worked with the Danish Oils. I have only worked with pure tung oils,tung oil mixes, polys, shellac, and lacquers. Oh, forgot, milk paint and enamel paints.


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## woodrookieII (Feb 9, 2011)

Aye Jonathan…....I checked on it few times for just that very reason. Good reminder tho.

Early on in this adventure I call woodworking, I stained some old red oak and wiped it off and came back and checked it a few hours later. It looked like it had chicken pox, and there was no wiping them off. Had to let it dry completely and then sand her down.

I'm really liking the low luster patina so far with this Watco stuff.

It's a commissioned piece and I needed to match the color as well as the finish, hence my queries concerning Danish oil products.

I believe I have a match. We'll see after it dries. 

....rookieII


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## JonathanG (Jan 18, 2010)

You could always add a topcoat of tinted paste wax if you need to slightly alter the color, obviously making sure the danish oil is thoroughly cured, or even another coat of tinted danish oil, thinned with the natural, if need be.

Sounds like you might have it already, or are very close.


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## roman (Sep 28, 2007)

maybe its too late but I am a lacquer fan, just because of its speed but I have, in the past, made furniture that wasnt condusive to lacquer so I tried Don Kondras recipe.

At first I was skeptical but in the end it was beautiful, perfect, deep sheen, satin,......perfect.

If memory serves me right its 25% tongue oil
25% high end marine varnish (worth spending more $$$ and getting it from a marine supply
50% mineral spirits/paint thinner
1 teaspoon japan dryer per quart,

applied with lint free cloth, let dry, wipe away excess,..........repeat every 8 hours

awesome finsih


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## jonww (Oct 29, 2008)

After much trial and error, I found Danish Oil was the way to go on my Cherry kitchen cabinets:

- 2 coats of watco danish oil (wait 24hrs between coats) & let cure for 3-4 days

Because they are cabinets…the durability part:

- 2 coats of 50-50 mix of semi-gloss poly and thinner
- wait a day and then knock down with 220 sandpaper
- clean up with tack cloth and apply 3-4 coats (2-3 hours between coats) of waterborne satin poly with foam brush. Light sand with 400 grit sandpaper before the final coat.

I found the self-leveling aspects and quick drying time of the water-based poly key to an excellent satin finish.

jonww


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## JonathanG (Jan 18, 2010)

jonww, did you put any sort of seal coat/wash coat between the oil and water finishes since you laid the oil first, then put waterbase over the top of it? Oil over water, I get, but water over oil?


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## jonww (Oct 29, 2008)

Jonathan, the 50-50 poly/thinner mix would be the seal coat in my mind.

Watco recommends either a water-based or oil-based polyurethane over their danish oil so I guess I thought I would take it a step further by adding the thinned oil-based polyurethane over cured danish oil and then topping it all off with the water-based poly for a smooth finish.

Adding the thinned oil-based poly really seemed to work in concert with the danish oil, further popping the grain of the cherry for me (maybe due to its yellowing properties?)

Jonathan (jonww)


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## JonathanG (Jan 18, 2010)

jonww, I'm sure many others have done the same thing as you with success. I just figured you'd want to use shellac or a diluted white glue mix, or something else along those lines as a seal coat. I was simply going by the "no water over oil" rule, without the proper bit of sealing between coats. Sounds like you haven't had any adhesion issues?


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## woodrookieII (Feb 9, 2011)

Well, firstly I must apologize for not updating.

Choosing Danish Oil, IMO, was the correct choice. The low luster that remained was really really nice. I think I've found a new final finish for future cherry pieces.

The owner took delivery and their first comment was how the table "glowed". Not bright, but glowed. Their second comment was "Let's talk desks."

Yeah, I think I've found a new final finish for cherry, particularly when the stain is Michael's 113 OCS.

.....rookieII


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## Mojo1 (Jan 13, 2011)

Do you have pictures of the table after you put the finish on?


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