# Paulk Workbench materials question



## DustyM (May 16, 2016)

So, I know this has been done to death on here, but after finally tearing down the last temporary wall in my 2-car garage, I have the space I need to build a good assembly/outfeed table. I purchased the plans for the Paulk workbench, but had a couple questions/concerns.

1) The plans call for 1/2" plywood, but I notice the majority of projects here use 3/4". Is this for weight/stability, or the known issue using pocket holes in 1/2" material? Kreg sells an adapter for their K4 (which I have) to use 1/2" material, as there have been known problems since 1/2" ply is slightly thinner (and the proper screw size harder to come by). If it's all the same, I suppose I'd rather use that money toward a heavier top (mobility is not an issue, it will likely be fixed in place).

2) AC plywood? I don't want to spend a ton of money on the construction, but my local Lowes sells pretty decent 9-ply 3/4" "cabinet grade" material. I thought about using this for the top, and AC for the bottom/sides, unless folks here are having just fine results using AC.

3) Pocket holes for the top? I heard a rumor that Ron isn't using them anymore (though his current plans still call for them). Any real detriment to just countersinking screws from the top? I'm planning on drilling the dog holes anyway, so it's not like it will be a solid surface.

I know I'm probably overthinking a bit, but I plan on this being a permanent shop fixture, and don't want to regret any decisions about it down the road.


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## DustyM (May 16, 2016)

*bump


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

I would use 3/4 ply all around for a permanent fixture using dowels and or dominos

and then finish with shellac and wax…...


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## DustyM (May 16, 2016)

Hmm, I hadn't considered dowels, but 3/4 is looking like what I'm settled on for material thickness. The more I think about it, I'm wondering if there's any real problem with just gluing the edges and tacking in place with my brad nailer.

As for finish, I figured I'd just use a spray on water based poly: quick and easy, and not too worried about aesthetics (and i'll be getting a roll of craft paper to put down whenever I do glue-ups).


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Paulk has been built a bunch of these, if he recommends 1/2" then I'd go with it. The reason is mobility but if you won't be moving it, build it from anything you want. I'm going to build a couple soon from 1/2", glue and staples probably, but weight is an issue for me.


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## DustyM (May 16, 2016)

Rick,
Thank you for giving me the justification I need to finally get a pneumatic stapler! I figure assembly will go much faster with that method or the aforementioned brads (really just holding until the glue sets). I had gone back on forth on this a BUNCH, especially after seeing some of the great outfeed cabinets people built here, but the below deck storage for tools on the Paulk is simply too appealing, especially as I am frequently guilty of leaving stuff on any flat surface around the shop.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

I bought a Freeman crown staple gun and it works really well for holding things tight together. My feeling is they hold tighter than brads. The staples are impossible to remove.


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## KLF (Jan 25, 2021)

Bringing this back up, wondering if the OP ever made his Paulk bench. I'm also trying to decide on plywood thickness to use.

I downloaded the 3×6 PSB plans the other day and they call for 3/4" birch ply throughout. Although I won't be taking it to a jobsite, I do need it to be somewhat portable. My plan is to put a cleat on the box along one 6' edge and make a pair of quick-attach legs so I can hang it on my SawStop PCS as an outfeed table. But I can't leave it attached, as I don't have room in the garage (unless I leave one car outside - not happening). But I'd also like to be able to plop it on a couple of sawhorses I have as an assembly/cutting/sanding table. As the saying goes "I'm not as young as I used to be", so I need it to be as light as possible.

He now specifies 1-5/8" trim head screws in the plans, with glue. I don't really see the need to go with Kreg screws, even though I have all the gear. It's a workbench, not the living room furniture, so small screw heads showing is no big deal.

So, my question is: is it possible to make a 3' x 6' bench out of 1/2" birch ply? The dividers only break it into three 3' x 2' sections, but I was thinking about adding a hardwood stiffener rib in the long dimension, right down the center, so the longest span of the top would only be ~18".


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Who or what is PSB? Paulk workbench uses 1/2 ply as stated several times above. You probably have plans for an assembly table which uses heavy material so you can pound on it and it remains dead flat.


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## KLF (Jan 25, 2021)

Here is the info on the Paulk PSB plans:

https://stores.modularmarket.com/paulk_homes/the-paulk-smart-bench-psb-p21.php

I believe these plans are rather new, but there's no actual date when it was posted for sale. I purchased these plans, and they call for 3/4" plywood. I was just hoping that was overkill and I could use 1/2" (12mm) but was wondering if anybody has done this. Good plywood is just too darned expensive to take a chance. I'm not going to be doing a router insert or hanging a table saw off it. I'm not going to make his portable sawhorses, just the top.

Thanks.


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