# Filling large wormholes, knot holes and cracks/checks in rustic oak floor



## toddbeaulieu (Mar 5, 2010)

I've read a bit about using epoxy on small projects, but wondering if anyone has any experience with "Cabin grade" oak flooring? I've got reclaimed timbers that were milled into new flooring. While I love the look (I use wormy lumber often in furniture), I can't imagine leaving the larger holes open on a floor. Suspect I'd have to back problem areas with duct tape (for example) to form a dam.

Thank you.


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## MLWilson (Jun 28, 2015)




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## toddbeaulieu (Mar 5, 2010)

Thanks Mark. Inlace is another potential trick here. Oh, I also forget to mention old school inlay patches. I might ultimately want a variety of patches throughout the room.

After watching your link I discovered this one from Advanced Repair Technology looks promising because it's flexible and has a lower viscosity so I don't think I'd be wasting as much out the bottom. I'm going to look into the pricing of this now. Assuming it's not cheap…

I started the video at the point where they show coloring the epoxy and what it looks like plugged.


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## toddbeaulieu (Mar 5, 2010)

Well, after a few more hours of research and a call to West Systems, I decided to go with them. I think I let an ad on flexible epoxy influence me on the above idea. The more I thought about it the more I theorized that I don't actually need flexability because I'm not going to fill between boards.

I'm going with 105 epoxy with 207 clear hardener for most of the holes. I'll either add in their 406 filler or use the Six10 caulk, which is just premixed thickened to jump start the big holes. Because the filler is white I'll have to dye those.


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## toddbeaulieu (Mar 5, 2010)

Figured I'd follow up in case anyone's interested. The floor is complete. I like it. I'd go with less black if I had it to do over, but I'm still quite happy with it. It's got a lot of character. I did a mix of black and clear. In some holes I did both, which I like the look of. I injected some black first, filling the bottom of the hole and then came back in with clear. It resulted in an interesting sense of depth. Knots look awesome with black, as do nail holes. I found that I prefer clear on the plain sections, though. I love the west epoxy, especially the metering pumps. I used their 406 filler for the larger holes that the thin epoxy was just running through, and never ended up using the $25 tube of Six10 caulk. I'm going with the theory that I won't have problems with wood movement, but time will tell. Four coats of minwax ultimate with 220 sanding before the last.


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## Cooler (Feb 3, 2016)

So after all the work reclaiming the boards was it worth it? Would you recommend it over commercial oak flooring?


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## toddbeaulieu (Mar 5, 2010)

I bought the flooring milled from reclaimed timbers. I didn't do any of that work. I like the idea of reclaimed and I like the look. I couldn't have achieved that with normal flooring, even character grade because that has no wormholes and no nail holes or marks. So this was the only route I had. But, it was a lot of work applying the epoxy that took several hour long sessions. It was also a lot of work hand scraping after sanding.


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## Cooler (Feb 3, 2016)

> I bought the flooring milled from reclaimed timbers. I didn t do any of that work. I like the idea of reclaimed and I like the look. I couldn t have achieved that with normal flooring, even character grade because that has no wormholes and no nail holes or marks. So this was the only route I had. But, it was a lot of work applying the epoxy that took several hour long sessions. It was also a lot of work hand scraping after sanding.
> 
> - toddbeaulieu


I understood that from your earlier posts. But you have not answered my questions:

1. Was it worth it? Would you do it again?
2. Would you recommend it to others?


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## AEChief (May 23, 2009)

Hey Todd, great job on the floors. I love the look of reclaimed White Oak, especially for flooring! Question for you,, how did you deal with the dust or castings that the worms leave behind in the holes and channels? I'm making a table out of white oak from a barn that is chocked full of this stuff. It's pretty hardened up and does not just brush out. I tried using some dental tools, but i'd be working for years trying to pick it all out. Any tips??

Thank you!
Rob


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## toddbeaulieu (Mar 5, 2010)

Rob, I used a pick. I have a bunch of them with various shaped tips. Once you get the tip into it, and take that first bit of packed powder out the rest comes effortlessly.


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