# Link belt or serpentine belt for Craftsman Table Saw 113.298750



## texretvet (Jan 20, 2015)

I will be upgrading my Craftsman 10 inch table saw from the factory pulleys and v-belt.

I know that both the link belt and serpentine are better than the current v-belt system.

Which would be the better choice?

I will also be putting a link belt on my Jet 14" bandsaw. Would it be best to use the link belt on the table saw since I'll be using it on my bandsaw as well, just to keep things uniform?

I appreciate the help.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

Both are good. Link belt offers smoother operation, and can be used with your stock v-pulleys. Serpentine belts make less wind noise because they're more aerodynamic, but can still be prone to taking a little set…they also require the proprietary pulleys. If I were in your shoes, I'd probably grab a link belt from HF using the stock pulleys, and would only upgrade those if necessary. If the stock pulleys are shot, and you don't want to spend the money for precision machined v-pulleys and the link belt, there some serpentine belt and pulley kits for ~ $30 that should work great.


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## Rick Dennington (Aug 27, 2009)

I have an old Craftsman t.s. #113.298 that I've had for nearly 28-29 years….Still using the same pullys, and only changed the belt once in all that time…It's just a v-belt, and I went to an automotive parts store and got a replacement…I took the old belt, and they matched it perfect…. $2.00 brand new…..No need for link and serpentine belts (for me)...Only if the pullys were shot would I then change them out…...But that's me…You can do what you want to…...


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## toolie (Mar 16, 2011)

+1 re scotts comments. i have two emerson built CI TSs, one with an OEM serpentine belt and the other with a link belt. the link belt saw seems to run a bit smoother. here's a video of my link belt saw doing a nickel test while bevel ripping a work piece.






and yes, releasing the work piece mid cut was definitely not my best move. but it does demonstrate how well aligned the fence was.


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## Tedstor (Mar 12, 2011)

I've used all three, and found little difference between a *high quality* v-belt, link belt, or serp belt. The v-belts that come with these machines are ususally junk and the v-belts often found on older, used machines are in bad shape. A high quality v-belt from Gates makes a big difference IMO. 
But to answer your question, I've bought two of these sets (see below) off of ebay, and have been pleased. Slightly cheaper than buying the link belt and pulleys.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ridgid-Craftsman-Table-Saw-Serpentine-Belt-and-Pulley-Kit-420J6-Steel-Pulleys-/201262105376?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2edc280320


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## texretvet (Jan 20, 2015)

I think the belt that is on it is either the original or very old. There is some serious vibration coming from it. The pulley on the motor has a slight bend to it which I'm sure doesn't help.

I figured since I'm gonna replace one pulley, then I might as well replace both. Since I'm replacing them, I'm either going with machined pulleys, or the serpentine setup.

Does anyone have a good source for the precision machined v-belt pulleys for use with the link belt?.

Tedstor - That is the exact auction I was looking at for the serpentine setup.

Thanks for the advice everyone.


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## MikesProjects (Mar 11, 2013)

link


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

LINK….

http://in-lineindustries.com/products/accu-link-belt/

Be sure to look at the Contractor Saw PALS….


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## texretvet (Jan 20, 2015)

Thanks DIY

I just ordered the PALS and a machined pulley/link belt set.

Looking forward to getting it and getting my saw tuned up.

Next step will be a new fence. This saw still has the original.

Thanks to everyone for the advice!


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

Ant time…. Tex,

There is a slight trick to installing the PALS, on a C'man saw at least….

One of the bolts interferes with the 45 degree tilt of the blade.
I forget which bolt, but it is one of the bolts to the rear of the table.
Follow their instructions, for installation & alignment.
Then test the 45 degree tilt. Once you know which bolt interferes….
Remove that bolt (with the three other trunnion bolts firmly tightened),
Then remove the PAL and re-install the original trunnion bolt.

Installation is really quite simple.
However, should you have any confusion or questions….
You can PM me or contact In-Line Industries for clarification.

Carry on….


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## texretvet (Jan 20, 2015)

I got the pulleys and belt today. I didn't have time to change out the pulleys, but I put the belt on and all I can say is …......WOW!!!!

I can't believe it's the same saw. Can't wait to see what it is like with the machined pulleys tomorrow.


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## toolie (Mar 16, 2011)

Great news. Have you made sur that the pulleys are coplanar? Coplanarity can have a dramatic effect on the extent to which the saw vibrates.


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

You're on your way….

Yeah, I love link belts.
I put one on my jointer, lathe and will be putting one (two really) on my drill press.


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## texretvet (Jan 20, 2015)

Toolie, I will be checking for coplanarity when I put the new pulleys on today.

I stiffened up the thin metal stand with some heavy oak boards and that has made quite a difference as well. It will work until I get a base cabinet built.

I should get the PALS I ordered sometime this week and will get everything squared up.

All I will need then is a new fence.

Then I'll start on the bandsaw. LOL


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## toolie (Mar 16, 2011)

*I should get the PALS I ordered sometime this week and will get everything squared up.*

a nice tool that is absolutely unnecessary to align that saw. follow the instructions in the OM. a miter gauge that is snug in the slot (no slop) and a $10 harbor freight dial gauge are all that are needed (some use even less in the way of tools) to align that saw (blade to slot and fence to the same slot) to +/- .001"


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## texretvet (Jan 20, 2015)

Another question….

I decided to go ahead and replace the arbor bearings while I was doing all the saw. I took the insides out of the saw and cleaned and lubed everything.

The inner bearing was extremely hard to get off of the shaft and left some pretty good scratches all the way down.

Do I need to polish the shaft somehow, or will it be ok just to stick the new bearings on and go with it?


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## texretvet (Jan 20, 2015)

I finally got it all back together tonight.

New machined steel pulleys and link belt

Removed complete tilting arbor system

Cleaned and lubed everything

Replaced arbor bearings

Braced up the crappy thin metal stand

It now raises and lowers very smoothly, tilts very smoothly, and runs like a much more expensive saw.

There is practically ZERO vibration. No rattles or anything, all you hear is the blade and the belt whirring.

I still haven't received the PALS setup I ordered. I spent about 2 hours today chasing the blade around trying to get it perfect before finally just calling it good enough until I get the PALS. I was using a combination square that fit into the miter slot and running the ruler against the blade and then using a feeler gauge for the final fit.

Back and forth, back and forth. It would seem perfect and then I would tighten one bolt and it would all get thrown off.

Totally maddening!

All I need now is a new fence. I'm just having a hard time pulling the trigger on a $200 to $300 fence for a saw that I have less than $150 into. Gonna have to do it eventually though.

Anyway, thanks for all of the help that you guys have given me on this project.


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## toolie (Mar 16, 2011)

judging from the cut results you posted in another thread, i'd say that saw is ready for action. anymore tinkering is probably not going to improve it much beyond the point it's at now.


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