# What Type of Joinery to Use?



## jamesmrj (Aug 30, 2013)

So I am working on a violin stand for my litter sister, and have come into a bit of road block. I cannot decide what type of join to use to attach the base and the main box.

I do not just want to glue the two pieces together since I plan on staining the wood before finishing, and I know I will not be able to get all the glue out of the corners. I don't trust myself enough with a chisel to recess the box into the base. My coworker suggested perhaps doweling the two pieces together.

What are yall's thoughts or suggestions? Thanks in advance


















This is what it is supposed to look like.


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## vikingcape (Jan 3, 2013)

If you are covering it with felt, I would just screw it so the screws were never seen. Dowels would work too


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

Screws or dowels.


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

You are going to have to use some glue, I don't see any other way with the way you've done the construction. You might be able to get away with less glue by using screws or through dowels from the bottom, but I would still glue down the sides for strength. If there is any squeeze out, do not try to clean it up right away. All that does is smear the glue around. Wait until the glue gels up but isn't hard yet (usually around 30 minutes for me) and clean it off with a chisel at that point. That will leave the surface pretty clean. Then you can do final clean-up in the corners by scraping with a chisel.

I'm curious why you did the construction that way instead of building a box with the bottom set into dadoes in the sides and then add the feet to the outside of the box. Is there something I am missing?


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## jamesmrj (Aug 30, 2013)

Jay, I actually planned to do it that way, but I learned that dadoes and finger joints don't play well together. At least not the way I did them. I ended up with holes in my finger joints at the location of the dadoes. I had to cut off the bottom portion at the dado and reconfigure. I will keep the gluing advice in mind.

Kaleb, were you meaning pocket hole screws or screwing it from the bottom?


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## vikingcape (Jan 3, 2013)

Either which you want. If you cover it the pocket screws won't be seen and from the bottom they could be plugged


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

Gotcha. Yep, doing dadoes with box/finger joint or dovetail corners takes careful planning and making stopped dadoes on two sides. Anyone who has ever tried has messed it up at least once.

Every woodworker makes mistakes. It's how well you recover, adjust and adapt that separates the good ones.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

4 little finish head screws up from the bottom. Oops, did I say that out loud?


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## Texcaster (Oct 26, 2013)

I've made boxes like that for cello and double bass. A fiddle or viola can be hung from the pegs if you like.


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## JAAune (Jan 22, 2012)

How big is that box? The general rule is to avoid cross grain joints exceeding 8" in length.

I know you don't want to use glue but I would use a marginal amount then screw it from the bottom. The bottom would then be covered in felt to hide the screws and give it a classy look.


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## jamesmrj (Aug 30, 2013)

Wasn't able to get online this weekend, but I ended up doing some pocket holes on the inside that will be covered with foam and velvet to protect the violin. I have just done a dry fit right now, but I do intend to use some glue as yall have suggested.

Tex, I figured on doing some kind of peg-based violin stand until my sister told me that the box type of stand is what she wanted.

JAAune, I think my long dimension (parallel grain joint) is 8-10" and the short dimension (cross grain joint) is 5-6". It has been a while since I cut the pieces and I don't have my sketch book with me.

I appreciate all the input.


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