# Great Saw - Keep it in Context



## redryder (Nov 28, 2009)

That's quite a list of things that annoy you about this saw.

These will be the first things to get replaced on the saw but I understand it is a product of the saw's price so I am not complaining.

I guess you get what you pay for…...............


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## MarkDavisson (Apr 26, 2009)

Thanks for the review! I've always understood that the front rail being split causes problems - especially when the fence is tightened at a point very near the inner end of either one of the rail halves Have you noticed any rail deflection at those points when it is under pressure from the fence?


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## tblake1984 (Mar 12, 2015)

> That s quite a list of things that annoy you about this saw.
> 
> These will be the first things to get replaced on the saw but I understand it is a product of the saw's price so I am not complaining.
> 
> ...


Well that's the point of the review (hence the title). A $500 table saw isn't going to be perfect but I think even with the criticisms, it is an extremely good value and sure beats the heck out of a jobsite saw.

If the R4512 cost $700, I would give it three 3 stars just because my expectations are higher at that price point.


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## ic3ss (Oct 19, 2010)

If those are the only issues you have with the saw, I'd say you are a fortunate buyer. The 4512 was on my short list but I opted for an old Unisaw instead. I had to re-wire it but it's been a champ, and I paid $400 for it. If the saw works for you and meets your expectations, then you should have no apologies for anyone. Enjoy your new toy!

Wayne


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## AaronK (Nov 30, 2008)

thanks for the review. I have the older brother of this saw, also with table-mounted trunion. getting it aligned is a real pain in the ass… what's this "clamp method" you speak of?


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## cc3d (Feb 26, 2012)

The 4512 is a great saw. I have purchased three over the last several years (installed different locations) and they are great for the value. Compare it to the $2200 sawstop contractor saw purchased in 2010, which is not worth even $499!


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## bigJohninvegas (May 25, 2014)

Good review. I have had my saw almost 2 years now, and am very happy with it.
There are a couple options for throat plates, both zero clearance and dado.
I am using lee craft throat plates, and am very happy with them. They are around $25 each on woodcraft. The only issue is once you set up the saw to use them, the metal plate that came with the saw will fit a little low. a pain to re adjust. 
I wound up buying a second zero plate and using my dado to open it up to match the factory metal plate.
Works perfect for miter cuts. Also you can get them direct from lee craft. http://www.leecraftzeroclearance.com/
The other option I saw is to make your own. I have not got around to it yet, but want to give it a try.
Another member here BrianB, has done it. looks really good too.
Here is the link to his project. http://50.23.231.98/projects/118633


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## tblake1984 (Mar 12, 2015)

> Good review. I have had my saw almost 2 years now, and am very happy with it.
> There are a couple options for throat plates, both zero clearance and dado.
> I am using lee craft throat plates, and am very happy with them. They are around $25 each on woodcraft. The only issue is once you set up the saw to use them, the metal plate that came with the saw will fit a little low. a pain to re adjust.
> I wound up buying a second zero plate and using my dado to open it up to match the factory metal plate.
> ...


Thanks for the info… I have been looking at them myself and may go that route. If the stock throat plate was just a little thicker, it wouldn't be much of an issue but as it is, it is ~1/16" thick and my top-bearing flush cut router bit has a little gap between the bearing and the cutter which is, unfortunately, about a 1/16" thick. The stock plate nestles in there pretty nicely and I end up gouging the pattern I am attempting to make. I will have to try again using some shims in between the stock plate and the MDF I am using to make the pattern. I think once the pattern is cut, it will be a lot easier to jam them out by just routing a 1/16" rabbit around the edge and cutting slots for the blade and riving knife but I am still not sure if it will be worth my time over just buying the leecraft ones.

Has anyone had any experience putting cast iron extensions on these? I saw the SawStop extensions are roughly the right dimensions but don't know about the mounting holes. Ridgid should seriously consider offering these as an OEM upgrade.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

Anything can be done with a drill and some taps (if necessary).


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## cathode (May 18, 2014)

I have this saw as well, also in a basement shop. I had to rent the home depot truck when i bought it and they loaded it into the truck with a forklift …. i don't have a forklift at home so I understand your pain with moving this thing around 

One thing I want to highlight to all R4512 owners is … the two-peice aluminum fence rail is a crap design and will sag over time, I solved the issue as described in my blog post: http://lumberjocks.com/cathode/blog/41162

I agree with all of your complaint points though. Regarding the ZCI … i really don't understand why they designed the table like that. I ended up using 1/2" birch plywood and using a straight flute router bit to cut out little "pads" so that my ZCI's would fit properly.


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## tblake1984 (Mar 12, 2015)

> I have this saw as well, also in a basement shop. I had to rent the home depot truck when i bought it and they loaded it into the truck with a forklift …. i don t have a forklift at home so I understand your pain with moving this thing around
> 
> One thing I want to highlight to all R4512 owners is … the two-peice aluminum fence rail is a crap design and will sag over time, I solved the issue as described in my blog post: http://lumberjocks.com/cathode/blog/41162
> 
> ...


This is a great idea, I may look at doing this to my own saw tonight. However, where did you mount the power switch with the t-slots covered by the front angle iron? I could use a good excuse to move it because I always bump it with my hip during a cut. Is angle iron from a big box store (i.e., Lowes/Home Depot) reliably straight?

I like what you did with the outfeed table. Very nice.


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## cathode (May 18, 2014)

> This is a great idea, I may look at doing this to my own saw tonight. However, where did you mount the power switch with the t-slots covered by the front angle iron? I could use a good excuse to move it because I always bump it with my hip during a cut. Is angle iron from a big box store (i.e., Lowes/Home Depot) reliably straight?
> 
> I like what you did with the outfeed table. Very nice.
> 
> - tblake1984


Thanks.

On my saw (2012 mfg date), the switch actually mounts to a second slot behind the first on the bottom of the front rail.

I found that the angle iron from home depot was sufficiently straight. If you can't find any pieces that are straight enough, you can cut an aluminum pop into shim pieces and use that.

On a side note, did your table have any "filled" spots? I've got a couple pea-sized defects in the table surface that are iron but a slightly different color, looks like there were voids or defects that were filled after casting.


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## woodworm1962 (Feb 15, 2018)

Do not walk away from this saw… RUN!


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## tblake1984 (Mar 12, 2015)

> Do not walk away from this saw… RUN!
> 
> - woodworm1962


Care to elaborate? What's your experience with the saw? I can't say your comment adds much to the conversation.


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## Jon_H (Jun 21, 2016)

> Do not walk away from this saw… RUN!
> 
> - woodworm1962


Too late, the OP purchased the saw before posting his review of the saw. THREE YEARS AGO!


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