# Zero Clearance throat plate material



## Amac (Jan 27, 2010)

I'm looking for some input on the best material to use for a zero clearance throat plate for my Ridgid R4511 table saw. I used 1/2 plywood but it warped in the middle so it is no longer flush with the table. What do you guys use?


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## MedicKen (Dec 2, 2008)

Plywood, mdf and more recently UHMW plastic. I also like the phenolic ply, but its a little pricey


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## rsmith71 (Jan 26, 2010)

I like 1/2 Baltic Birch plywood due to the price factor, I can usually find pieces big enough at work for free. Never had any trouble with it warping though.


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## North40 (Oct 17, 2007)

MDF might be a good choice - it's inexpensive and shouldn't warp.


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## Sawkerf (Dec 31, 2009)

I have the Jet "Supersaw", and make my ZCI's from 1/2" Baltic birch scraps left over from drawer boxes. After milling them to size and drilling a finger hole, I brush poly on all exposed surfaces and edges. Mine stay flat.


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## Rick Dennington (Aug 27, 2009)

Greetings Amac:... I also use the 1/2" B.B. ply. It's been good to me for zci. I've never used MDF, as I don't have any 1/2". I too, have never had it to warp. Maybe you just got a bad piece. You might try making another one or two just on account…...... I'm with Medic Ken:... phenolic is coslty. never used it, though.


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## Amac (Jan 27, 2010)

I took a look at the piece I cut it from and it looks like it was already warped and I didn't notice. I'll make another one from a different piece.
Thanks for the help.


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## Timbo (Aug 21, 2008)

I just made some for my R4511, used 1/2" mdf, fits perfect and cheap.


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## farmboyfd44 (May 16, 2009)

i use 1/2"MDF on my unisaw, it will last me about 9 mo to 1 year


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## gerrym526 (Dec 22, 2007)

I've used a hardwood called osage orange (recommended by Kelly Mehler on his table saw video). It's very ridgid, has a slippery finish (not oily, just slippery), and looks pretty on the TS. Lasts forever if you don't do something stupid and doesn't seem affected by humidity like we have in Chicago during the summer.
Gerry


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## BHuber (May 22, 2009)

The for what its worth department.

I have tried different materials for making my ZCI and have now settled on the one I really like the best.

UHMW
I bought some that were already fitted to my saw and all I had to do was run the blade up.

Pros:
They look good
They are smooth

Cons:
After being in the saw for 2 weeks they bowed in the center

Plywood:

Pros:
Very easy to work with
Cheap to buy

Cons:
You can not really tap it for a 10-32 set screw. You can screw the set screw in and it will hold but its not really tapped.
The surface is just not as smooth as the UHMW
Its light weight
Will not hold a spiral pin for a lock that good.

MDF

Pros:
Very easy to work with.
Cheap to buy
Machines really nice
Is very smooth

Cons:
You can not tap it for a set screw, again the set screw will screw in and hold but the hole is still not tapped.
Its light weight
I will not hold a spiral pin good at all, comes loose after awhile

Phenolic
Pros:
Looks very nice
Are very smooth
They machine really well
You can tap holes in it.
It holds a spiral pin very well
It last for a long long time.

Cons:
They do cost more

So now I have gone to Phenolic all the way, they look and work very well. The cost is a little higher then MDF or Plywood but to me it is worth it.
I now buy a sheet of 1/2 inch for $24 and I can make 3 ZCI out of it, $8 is just not that much for a ZCI that will last forever.
They really tap well and with a drop of Blue Locktite the set screw hold great. I can install a spiral pin in the end as a safety so it can not come out in the back.

http://www.pbase.com/wlhuber/image/110613432

http://www.pbase.com/wlhuber/image/110613430


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

What is UHMW?


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## BHuber (May 22, 2009)

It is a plastic, kind of soft.

http://www.ptreeusa.com/uhmwproducts.htm


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

Must be the acronym for the standard plastic blocks in the WW stores, eh?


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## BHuber (May 22, 2009)

That's it, the only thing I use it for is to make setup blocks for the router.
Some people use it for the slides on a TS sled but I just never liked it for that, it spreads when you put a screw in it.


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## Timbo (Aug 21, 2008)

Ultra high molecular weight polyethylene UHMWPE or sometimes shortened to UHMW


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## Abbott (May 10, 2009)

I bought a $10.00 phenolic cutting board at Wal-Mart and made two inserts out of it.


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## fredf (Mar 29, 2008)

I havent tried it, but bet that 1/2" mdo might work well. As far as tapping screws some small brass inserts like








might be just the ticket, I have seen the smaller sizes with small body sizes that should fit into 1/2" material without a problem. might need some gummy lock tight (allows adjustment) to keep screws from shifting. You could also counter bore and epoxy in a nut . . .


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## tomfromwinnipeg (Dec 14, 2009)

I used some scrap beech I had in the shop. no problems so far after 2 years.


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## cliffton (Dec 18, 2009)

1/2 inch thick plastic cutting board from walmart. I think it was 12$ and I made 3 inserts out of it. the stuff is very hard and makes an insane mess when you cut it.


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