# how do I smooth the end grain?



## peabody (May 27, 2008)

I am a high school wood shop student and unfortunately I do not have the money to buy solid bowl blanks for turning on the lathe. I have thus been forced to glue up 6-7 pieces of walnut into a large block (the wood being glued face to face not edge to edge). In the past when I have done this I ran into a problem as the end grain side of the bowl never gets very smooth even when I sand the holy bojeezes out of it. Any tips?


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

I have had the same problems.

I read that if you make the wood damp the gouge will cut cleaner. Also, when sanding, if you run the lathe in reverse, it is supposed to help. My lathe doesn't switch directions so I can't say for sure.


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## juniorjock (Feb 3, 2008)

What grit paper did you use? The way I understand it, the higher the better. Works pretty good for me. It's more like burnishing than sanding.
- JJ


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## matter (Jan 30, 2008)

100, 120, 150, 180, 220, 300, 400

2 coats of shellac

220, 300, 400

Then Poly.

Labour intensive, but well worth it


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## peabody (May 27, 2008)

thanks a bunch, now I just have to convince my shop teacher that we need 400 grit.


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

You might try soaking the end grain with CA glue, after turning and the first couple of sanding grits. The CA won't affect any oil based clear finishes. It won't take stains well, though!


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## Waldschrat (Dec 29, 2008)

peabody, whats up? I have some helpful news! I am turning wood often, so I think this will be helpful

Ok first, sanding will work, but Matter is completely correct when it comes to sanding… you must go through every step of sanding paper…. it may seem like make work but is the correct way and work intensive. This is something that works but will not substitute for a good sharp tool, as it saves a ton of time and dust.

Lew is right too, and I can personally attest that reversing direction is the best for sanding… it cuts down the "fibres" of the wood the best because what you push down in one direction you cut going the other (if that makes sense). so for example 120 one direction and then 120 the opposite turning direction, but shortly!!! then on to the next grain of sand paper.

But here is THE Golden Rule of wood turning; (well, at least what my instructor in wood turing always said, and he was an actual master turner, which is getting rarer even here in Germany, where traditional handworkers are still around) and that is: "There is no substitute for a good finish with the bowl gouge/skew" Well, thats not perfect but you get the translation.

So… in a long about way, what I am saying is that it is best to use the sharpening stone and make your gouge or what ever tool your using and make it razor sharp, then use the proper cutting angle and when performed well enough, you can start actually something like a 240 or higher grit paper. It will work, it just takes a TON of practice, I know, but it is worth it!

By the way, just to let you know, If you are turning over the endgrain, you should know that this is one of the most difficult types of turning (you probably already know this being in school and all), but worth saying all the same.

Another really good tip that I learned finishing stuff on the lathe, is that you can infact "burnish" your pieces and make an almost semi gloss (depending on wood of course) with just water and the shavings and chips you have sitting on the floor underneath your lathe.

After the piece is finished in the form you want and the sanding/skewing or which ever you choose is done, you can take a sponge or rage (be careful that the rag does not catch on the spindle) and some water and wet down the piece, (not so much that it sprays all over but enough that it is a glossy and good dampend) then grab a pile of shavings from under your lathe and CAREFULLY hold them hands cupped to the turning piece. BE VERY CAREFULL as it can get real hot real quick. "Rub" while turning and before the piece is totally dry(you will see it drying as your turning, the friction makes alot of heat) reverse direction if possible and perhaps grab a new hand full of shavings…. the rougher and sharper the shavings the better, so probably the stuff at the bottom of the pile, because usually the first shavings to come off sind the roughest.

This works with most hard woods to get a nice "semi gloss" or a little short of it. Also pure hard wax will work to get a good natural shine, bees wax will make a more warm tone with a little more grain showing.

Of course the Schellack works too, as well as poly and everything else what you can use on wood.


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## peabody (May 27, 2008)

wow, you need to write a book on this stuff! thanks for all of that information I will use it as well as I can.


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## LesB (Dec 21, 2008)

Peabody,
These fellows have give some good advise but be careful with putting water on wood that is already dry; especially if you have gotten a nice thin turning. It may warp. Also be careful with any wet wood you are turning. If it gets hot it will certainly dry unevenly and crack. I have had troublesome end grain that I I just can't get to cut smoothly and have resorted to 60 grain sand paper to start. It is not fun or neat but it can save the piece from the fireplace. If you have a smooth grain wood I often finish with 0000 steel wool and or 3M scrub pads. Don't use steel wool on coarse grains because it sticks in the open grain and is hard to remove.
It takes years to learn all the tricks. If you have a particular new piece you want to turn ask a lot of questions before you start. It saves time and occasionally a failure….which we all have occasionally.


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## motthunter (Dec 31, 2007)

follow the above device and be ready to spend some time getting it done. This requires patience.


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