# Polyurethane On Stain - What's Your Preference - Steel Wool or Sandpaper?



## Bingo969 (Jul 5, 2012)

Howdy -

I'm curious to hear what people's thoughts on this are. I know only a few other local woodworkers and it seems everyone has a different answer but not many can really explain why they feel that way.

I make large-ish wooden box drums (Called a 'Cajon' if you are familiar with them or want to see). Here is a picture of my first one that I thought came out so-so. A little warp on the front soundboard down near the bottom. The top corners are supposed to have a gap there for the traditional wood-on-wood "crack" sound when struck. http://www.livesuncoast.com/Cajon.jpg

I've been staining them (Oil based stain made by Zar. I really like how it comes out) and then polyurethane that with a water-based poly. Seems to work really well. I've played around with matte, satin and gloss poly and I've more or less settled on the satin for a nice halfway between dull and really shiny.

I've been using 1200-1500 grit sanding inbetween each coat of poly. I usually end up around 4-6 coats total before I'm calling them done.

However, some have sworn by using 4-0 steel wool between coats of poly. I'm not sure I'm happy with the results. I seem to find more "swirls" using the steel wool. However, maybe I'm doing it wrong too.

So what are you thoughts on Steel Wool vs Sanding and why? What are your experiences? I'd love to hear them and help educate myself more on different techniques.

As always, thanks for being such a great resource for us new woodworkers!

Bingo


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

Try 3M sanding pads.

You don't need anything too severe. Just enough to remove dust nits and to give a little mechanical advantage for the poly to grab onto.


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## Earlextech (Jan 13, 2011)

Use steel wool on solvent based poly only, use 3M pads on water based poly.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

If you're happy with what your results with the current, no reason to change. But if you do change for some reason, do not go to steel wool…..especially with waterborne finishes.


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

I just find steel wool easier than sandpaper, but it's really as simple as trying both and sticking with the one you like best. I have heard, though, that steel wool should NOT be used with water-based poly because of the possibility of steel remnants rusting in the finish.


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## ClintSearl (Dec 8, 2011)

After getting rid of the nubs left by the first coat, sanding between successive coats is a waste of effort. Follow-on coats should level out by themselves. When you get the desired build, wait a couple days, and rub out with 0000 steel wool and cheap paste wax.

Also, what's the point of laying waterborne on top of oil poly? Drop the oil poly and put the waterborne directly on the cured ZAR. It works perfectly; that's exactly what I do.


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## ETwoodworks (Jan 10, 2011)

I like #00 steel wool but i only use solvent based poly.


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## cmaxnavy (Dec 23, 2007)

No question about it - - - Quad Naut (0000) Steel wool! I swear by it.


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

I always leave little pieces of steel wool on the project…...someplace. They only show up after the next coat is applied. I never use it because of this. After the last coat if I need some smoothing I might go to steel wool but not between coats. Just my way of doing it. I sand between coats if there is much lapse time between them.


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## Bingo969 (Jul 5, 2012)

Interesting. So it looks like the consensus here is about as split as with the few people I've spoken with around here as well. Ha. Goes to show everyone has a different approach I guess.

It does sound like I had the right idea though, to go with sandpaper since I'm using a water-based poly.

I definitely appreciate all the feedback.


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