# Home Made wiping Varnish/ lacquer



## Cornductor (Feb 5, 2011)

It's been awhile since I've posted anything on here and I feel a bit guilty about it but. I'm in need of some expert advice on finishes which is such a complex area for most.

I'm using a home made wiping varnish that works well however the finish is slow to cure. Once the varnish is dry can I use a spray Lacquer to complete the project?

Home brew consists of

1 part linseed oil
1 part mineral spirits
1 part poly.

Any thoughts would be great!!


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## WhoMe (Jul 9, 2009)

Not sure how long you have been using that formula but for me, I use a non-poly formula of 
1 - boiled linseed oil
3 - mineral spirits
1/2 to 3/4 oz beeswax

For me I did a little experimentation and my original formula was only 2 parts mineral spirits and it was taking a long time to cure. I changed it to 3 parts MS and the drying/curing time was reduced drastically.

So, not sure if that will help but with additional MS, the evaporation of the volatiles will happen faster as the ms will carry it away. At least that is how I see it. Granted, that will make your coat thinner per application but adding the MS worked for me in reducing the drying/curing times. 
It is worth a shot.


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## Earlextech (Jan 13, 2011)

I will defer to Charles Neil on this one - Oh Charles? Where are you?


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

Your wiping varnish is really a danish oil, and adding the BLO is making it dry more slowly. Wiping varnish is typically though of as just very thin varnish, no BLO. Try using a mixture of 50/50 varnish and MS. You can usually get this to dry enough to apply the coats in sets of 3, if more is needed wait overnight and do another set.


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## Finisherman (May 3, 2013)

I'm with Fred Hargis on this one. The BLO is the ingredient that is casing the slow drying time. Try leaving the oil out and use the fifty-fifty mixture of poly and mineral spirits as a wiping varnish. Just be aware of the fact that wiping varnish cures much more quickly than a mixture which contains BLO. Consequently, you'd probably be better off if you wipe on thin coats in the direction of the grain and leave them be, rather than flooding the mixture on and then wiping off the excess. The good news is that wiping varnish will cure much harder than a mixture which contains oil.


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## Cornductor (Feb 5, 2011)

Would it be safe to say that next time use the BLO mixture for the initial coat then go with the poly and MS?


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## ClintSearl (Dec 8, 2011)

There's absolutely no point in these home-brew concoctions, especially ones with BLO which is only good for starting fires. Read my blog.


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## Cornductor (Feb 5, 2011)

Thank you Clint for the informative blog I learned some pretty valuable info. Now that I've put the finish on is there a problem using rattle can lacquer as the final top coat?


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## ClintSearl (Dec 8, 2011)

If the oil-varnish blend is fully cured, you can shoot it with lacquer by hitting it with a light coat scrubbed back with maroon scotchbrite, followed by one or two full wet coats. I'd start with a naptha scrub and a couple days rest.


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## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

Earlex. you fight the battles you can win,. this isnt one of them. I am kinda with Clint on this one.

Let me put it like this , I just sat down from finish building 2 morris chairs, one cherry and one tiger maple, Will finish them in Arm R Seal , or even minwax poly oil or Formbys tung oil ( not really tung oil) , get 2 or 3 coats on in 24 or so hours, and if need be top it with a little deft lacquer, and call it a day .


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## Earlextech (Jan 13, 2011)

Charles - I knew you'd show up eventually! And I completely agree with you and Clint.

Personally, having built custom/production cabinets and furniture for many years, I never found it necessary to make my own finishes. Not enough time in my day to bother with that, too many deadlines.


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## shampeon (Jun 3, 2012)

I love when people say that things I've successfully done and used are pointless and stupid….

If I'm finishing furniture, I'm not going to use a home-brew wiping varnish. For chisel handles, jigs, plane knobs/totes, small pieces, and work benches, I'm not going to get out my HVLP sprayer. I don't work in a cabinet shop, so it may be easier for all you guys to just stroll into the finishing booth and get it all done in a couple minutes.

Meanwhile, go ahead and recommend that a Mack semi with a flat-bed trailer is the only thing you need to people who could really use a pickup truck.


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## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

Shampon, who said that , I use, well not quite, your right I have a full blown spray booth , about 30 various spray guns at my disposal, I teach finishing, and I fully get the little guy, he is who supports me. What I gave you is as fast and as durable a finish as your gonna get, and fully doable at home, the deft lacquer is in a spray can. I didnt tell you to go get a 3k air assisted airless spray system and then build a 40k spray booth and shoot a acid catalyzed conversion varnish, using a haz mat suit, with on board oxygen support.

I told you to get the products I listed because i have tested them and I KNOW they work, and are home safe and easy to use, help me here what did I miss, the home brews have alot of issues, and in days past they worked, the issue is that the products have changed immensly, due to govt regulations and VOC restraints, BLO isnt "B" , they add a little japan drier and that is it, it simply put doesnt work, I have tested and tested and proved it.

Take a chill pill , I try to help,. that is it, try what I wrote and then you can say what you want.

Now you know why I just sit on the side lines and watch,


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## ClintSearl (Dec 8, 2011)

Shampeon-your metaphor doesn't make sense. Unless I'm mistaken, Brandon wants to complete his project with a film finish, namely lacquer. In that context, the inclusion of the suggested mixture has not only complicated the process but in fact has compromised the intended outcome, resulting in needless remediation. Aside from staining, a finish that ends with a film formulation should start with the same film formulation. Furniture deserves no less.

If all you make are tool handles and shop fixtures, feel free to use BLO, 10W40, bear fat, or chicken ******************** and rainwater…..whatever suits your fancy.


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## shampeon (Jun 3, 2012)

Charles, I fully respect your opinion, and appreciate that you're willing to share your experience here.

I've used rattle can Deft lacquer. It's fine. It's also not as easy as a wipe-on finish. It takes about a month to fully cure before rub out. See about a bazillion guitar refinishing threads on various forums if you don't believe me.

FWIW, I really like the Target Coatings EM6000 waterborne lacquer. It's easy to spray, easy to touch up, easy to clean up, cures fast, won't kill your lungs or burn down your garage, and is durable. It's what I would use all the time for film finishes if I had a dedicated spray booth.

But what if I need to add a finish to a chisel handle I've turned on my lathe? Wiping on some shellac or my BLO/shellac mix is easier still, works great, makes the piece look good, and I can do it with an old t-shirt and leave it on the lathe to dry.

There's a variety of tools in your toolbox, is the point. Use the right tool for the job.


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## shampeon (Jun 3, 2012)

Clint, the bears and chickens keep running away when I approach them. Any other suggestions?


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## Cornductor (Feb 5, 2011)

Thank you all for your help and great info specifically Clint and Charles.

I however have never understood why whenever a guy or girl has a question that it always leads to a who's smarter than who contest. After weeding through the mess I found my answer and moved on. Thank you again guys for all the great info.


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