# Shortest piece on jointer



## D_Allen (Oct 11, 2010)

Sometimes the simple things don't register in my brain right away.
Recently I have been shopping for a disc sander to square pen blanks before drilling. It is much better if they are square rather than rectangular. Most of the sanders I see run too fast in my opinion. I have one set up on the lathe using a 6" faceplate and at 650 RPM it is plenty fast.
Running that short of a piece in the planer is a big no-no but it occurred to me that I may be able to use my jointer. I have a vintage 4" that works very well for everything I have used it for. I had a yellowheart blank that was rectangle and decided to throw caution to the wind and try it. It worked great. The thing I realized is that the space between the tables on this 4" is only 1.25". Using light cuts and going slow it did the job just fine.
I was looking over the manual on a Ridgid 6" and they say not to joint any stock that is less than 12" long. I know that is overkill on their part for their protection, but really, how short could you go and still be somewhat safe?
I have decided now that I do not need a better disc sander anytime soon.


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## jumbojack (Mar 20, 2011)

with stuff that short I'll use a plane. I respect my jointer, probably more than any other machine in the shop.


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## dnick (Nov 17, 2011)

I'd really never joint a short piece , gives me the chills. Like jumbojack said.I'd probably use a block plane.


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## MonteCristo (May 29, 2012)

Hard to say what the "absolute minimum" is, but it's not worth investigating, as 1) it is heading for an accident and 2) the jointer will do a poor job of it anyway as the gap for the knives will make it hard to keep the board from wobbling. 12" on a 6" jointer certainly should be no problem.


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## fussy (Jan 18, 2010)

Some limits just don't need exploring. 12" is pretty safe. Anything shorter is just asking for trouble. Like Jumbo and Dnick, I respect my tools and the idea of running short, small stock over or through a power tool scares me. Use a hand plane. There may be only 1.25" between tables, but your fingers are awfully close to those blades.

Steve


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## D_Allen (Oct 11, 2010)

I wouldn't try anything shorter then 5" and it would be much more dangerous on a larger jointer as the spacing of the tables is probably much greater. At the midway mark there is still nearly 2" of wood flat on each table.
As for wobble, if the tables are set properly there is no opportunity for wobble. And I'd never ever think of running such a small piece through without push blocks to keep the fingers away.
Thanks all for your insight but I will continue the use with caution.


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## 280305 (Sep 28, 2008)

I think the minimum on my 8" jointer is 10". I don't go below 12". If I know I will have some short pieces, I try to get the milling finished before they are cut that short. If I have to deal with a short piece, I use a hand plane.

My jointer manual gives minimum dimensions for length, width, and thickness. I made a piece of wood with those dimensions and have it hanging next to the jointer. This is an easy and quick way to check.


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## 8iowa (Feb 7, 2008)

Others above have given great advise. The jointer can cause gruesome injuries.

That said, the disk sander and the belt sander on my Shopsmith has all the variable speed I need for sanding small stock.


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## Dark_Lightning (Nov 20, 2009)

I wouldn't go less than a foot. When I was in wood shop in summer school as a HS junior, one of the kids (going into the 7th grade) decided to run his plywood sanding block (~4"X3"X3/4") through the jointer. Didn't ask permission (required for the jointer). Also ignored the markings the shop teacher made with a marker- 12" long, 6" wide, 1" thick minimum right on the bed. The kid lost most of his fingers off both hands. One other boy (a senior) and I were the only ones allowed to use it after that. Believe me, I was extra-respectful of the thing after that.


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## Gumnut (Jun 29, 2012)

Here is a lesson learned!
Very sadly I fell for the trap of trying to run a short length through my jointer and at the same time I was distracted by someone coming in the shop "BANG" and in a split second three fingers were dragged into the blades with the piece of wood flying into orbit!
I automatically clenched my fist and grabbed a rag to hide the blood from the war office. She said show me and I said hospital then I laid on the grass outside because I was about to black out.
At the hospital a nice doctor shoved needles into the base of the fingers and a few moments later I was happy watching a craftsman at work stitching back on the pads of my fingers (such a talent at sewing).
I highly recommend that you only use the jointer for long pieces and keep the blades sharp!
Hand planes give such a lovely shaving off when you learn the correct use of them.


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

Peter,
Same thing happened to me. Luckily is was just my thumb. I now have a right thumb that's about 1/2 the thickness of the left.
NEVER joint anything shorter than 12" and then, use a pusher/hold down.


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## 69BBNova (May 1, 2012)

I wouldent joint a 6" piece, I'd always prefer to do a board as long as possable before sizeing it for a project…

I've worked with wood (as a hobbiest) for 40yrs or so, and one of the first things I've always done is figure out how a power tool can "ATTACK" me by doing something that may not be a good idea…

Over the years everybody hears stories of a moments distraction and then its to late…

I know I havent said much but my respect for what tools can do, good or bad is immense.


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## JJohnston (May 22, 2009)

I've run short, and thin, pieces through a planer after sticking them to a larger piece of MDF with some 2-sided tape. Works really well. There is some potential for damaging thin pieces when you try to pull them free of the tape/carrier board, but it beats jointing your fingers.


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## teejk (Jan 19, 2011)

to all above…these jointer stories had me in the fetal position under my desk…

there is a forum on this site that says "safety in the workshop" or something like that…maybe we can get a new one that says "stoopid things I have done"...I'm not being critical of anybody and will offer to start it with stoopid things I have done.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

Don't run anything shorter than 10" over a jointer. You can
make a table saw jig easily to straighten the edges of
short boards.

In a pinch a short board can be jointed on a handplane inverted
in a vise.


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## sawdust1whisperer (Nov 11, 2014)

I was researching the shortest and the thinnest board you can join on a jointer and you post came up.

That's why my post is dated 06/29/22

Purdue Education states a10" long and 1/4" thick soars is the shortest and thinnest board you can safely pass over a jointer.


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## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

Similar to what the OP said, he had a 4" jointer (so very small) It's possible a college, if it had a wood shop would have had a 12" jointer. I think it's going to vary by size of machine, and spacing of the distance between in and out tables.

Saying all that I stick with 12" myself. Because something CAN be done, doesn't really mean it SHOULD be done. I read stuff on here all the time where I cringe a LOT. All I can say in response to I'm a ChickenShirt is this Chicken has all 10 fangers.

Plus like others in the original thread, I do have several hand planes.


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## WoodenDreams (Aug 23, 2018)

I've run 8" pieces. But did it with a push block with a heel. Allowing my hands to be on the handle of the push block, not the wood being jointed. Jointing cut was at 1/16" or less thickness.


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## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

> I ve run 8" pieces. But did it with a push block with a heel. Allowing my hands to be on the handle of the push block, not the wood being jointed. Jointing cut was at 1/16" or less thickness.
> 
> - WoodenDreams


I understand the theory of a push block being the sacrificial piece, so you don't get hurt. I also know the times I have been in the ER, when some ones push block, stick, or duck shaped item, didn't withstand the impact, and suddenly without a plan B their fangers suddenly were part of the equation. I'm sure they would all say it sucked big time.

I have a 6" area before the knives, and a 6" area after the knives where my hands don't go, PERIOD. I also use push pads, or the deal below, which I feel is a great jointer tool. I figure if the board has a hidden knot, or for some other reason it suddenly ceases to be there. I don't want to depend on the push thingie being strong enough to withstand that shock of suddenly being into the knifes (in my case inserts) so if my hands are never over the cutters, I have to try to get hurt.

A question??? Have you ever had a piece of wood you are jointing suddenly be toothpicks, gone, blown up, exploded? If you do it will change your mindset. It has happened to me more than once, and I have seen it happen to others as well.

Anyhow that is what drives my 12" minimum. I can keep my hands from being inside that 6" zone, going, and coming.

My pushie of choice.


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## controlfreak (Jun 29, 2019)

Reading this I was thinking before I even got to the replies "Bam and it was gone". When I had a power jointer I always used pus blocks for safety but I would hate to have the blades start into the push blocks. I think this falls into the category if that voice in your head is questioning "is this safe?" it probably isn't.


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## Unknowncraftsman (Jun 23, 2013)

I've run some pretty short pieces over the jointer. I wouldn't have done it if I didn't already have a good idea about how the wood cuts.
The most sketchy operating I've done on my jointer is jointing the knives. This is done by hold a stone on the outfeed with the machine running barely touching the knife tips.
Done right it makes for a outstanding cut but a louder machine with some resistance comparable to a insert head.


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## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

i agree with controlfreak if your asking yourself,is this safe to do,dont.id never run something the size of a pen blank over my jointer.as far as drilling out of square blanks i do it all the time,it's no big deal to worry about.the shortest i go is about 10".


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