# Staining directly after hand-planing?



## 12strings (Nov 15, 2011)

Does anyone use rub-on stain directly after hand-planing without sanding?

It seems that when I do, the surface is too smooth to absorb much stain at all. Especially on pine or poplar. It seems that it needs to be roughed up with some 150 or 220 sandpaper to get a decent darker color.

Is that what I need to do, or am I doing something else wrong?


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

Some will tell you it is possible. I always sand at 120 and 150 regardless of whether it was hand planed, power planed, or cleaned up with a card scraper. It gives me consistent results, with no surprises when it come time for finishing. This is the main reason I do it that way. I have been burned before with tearout in QSWO from hand planing. Quartersawn oak just doesn't hand plane like walnut or cherry. It machines well though.


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

Use a dye?
Bill


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Before sandpaper was around the plane was the last tool to touch the wood before finish. A tuned smoother will give you a surface that no sandpaper will. If you are wanting penetration a bit of sanding would not hurt.


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## paratrooper34 (Apr 27, 2010)

I rarely use sandpaper. Cannot stand the dust and mess. I read about this subject somewhere and the main point of the article was that planes cut fibers which leaves a surface that is truly open and is excellent for stain/finish to absorb into. The point made about sandpaper is that the fine dust left in the pores and fibers give the appearance of better saturation, but it does not allow the same level of saturation as a planed surface which leaves the surface almost completely dust free. My experience is that planed wood has no issues accepting finishes.


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Agreed and well said.


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

I agree with Mike.


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## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

I was going to respond, but then I read Mike's response, and I don't need to


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