# Jig Material Preference



## pete79 (Oct 20, 2009)

I'm sure the answer really should be "it depends on what you're making" but…..

In general what is the preference material for making jigs? I've seen people make them out of MDF, Ply, and various hardwoods. I'm not at a point where I can really justify spending the money on expensive hardwoods to make jigs, so I'm curious what everyone prefers out there? MDF vs. Ply vs. "inexpensive" hardwoods?

I have a long list of jigs to make, and I'd prefer to make them right the first time.


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## GFYS (Nov 23, 2008)

I make jigs out of what I have.


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## westside (Nov 14, 2009)

That is a great question Pete. Being new to woodworking, I am going to keep an eye on this post. There are a lot of great woodworkers here who can give great advice I'm sure.


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## drfixit (Oct 16, 2009)

I made quite a few last year out of MDF, and now I am remakeing them. Very high humidity here durning the summer months and a lot of them have swelled up, so I am using plywood at a minimum. I bought a piece of UHMW plastic for my table saw fence, and have been using the left overs as much as I can. Depending on how much moisture you have to deal with mdf may do fine for you.


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

Baltic birch ply for some things, MDF for others. Sometimes straight hardwood boards, like for my TS cove cutting jig. Sometimes, hardboard - other times UHMW.

Not trying to be vague to annoy anybody, but Is usually depends on the type of jig and it usually comes down to what I have on hand.

I will say that it's nice to have an array of hardware on hand, like t-slots, knobs, handles, carriage bolts, hold downs, etc.


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## BlankMan (Mar 21, 2009)

I too will make jigs out of what I have laying around but I do prefer MDF and will buy some for some of the jigs I make. I find it easy to work with for jigs and its smooth surface is a plus. I do not like the fine dust it produces when cutting it but that's the price I pay.

I made the router sled below to lower my bench for my new RAS out of oak and MDF and actually had to buy the oak for it. This was a one time dedicated use item so using oak may not be everybody's choice but I wanted its strength so it wouldn't flex and I wanted the MDF for the base so the router would slide easily.


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

Oh, that's nice, Curt!


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## BlankMan (Mar 21, 2009)

Thanks. It was the only way I could figure out how to cut down the bench and keep it level. Jig's still sittin' on the floor, may become firewood when it gets cold here. That's kind of a shame but I can't see any other use for it and trying to reclaim the wood would lead to awful small pieces and I've got enough of those.


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## papadan (Mar 6, 2009)

It depends on what the jig is for. If I make one for a specific task that is only going to be used a little, I use MDF, if it is permanent like my crosscut sled, it is cabinet grade ply and hardwood.


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## BlankMan (Mar 21, 2009)

That's a good point Dan, I wouldn't consider making a crosscut sled out of MDF, I used baltic birch and hard maple.


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## cstrang (Sep 22, 2009)

I use alot of MDF in my shop, I have never had any humidity problems with it like drfixit has, MDF is getting better and better and the water problem that once was is starting to trail off it seems. MDF is very durbale, I love it.


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## Jeff8020 (Nov 23, 2009)

You might consider making your jigs/fixtures out of 80/20 t-slot aluminum. 8020.net


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## GMman (Apr 11, 2008)

Anyting left over it can be a mixture, also it depends on the jig like what Dan said.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

it really does depend on what you're making though. each material has certain characteristics which make it more suitable for certain jigs:

Masonite: darn cheap, easily machined, thin - good to surface surfaces, fences, and for templates
MDF: darn cheap,flat, even thickness, smooth faces - good for fences, or things that your parts need to slide by it.
BB Plywood: flat, stable
hardwoods: machineable, hard, continuous grain pattern (rigidity) 
UHWM: naturally slick (good for runners, or fences) but is not naturally flat (easily gets out of flat/straight if not screwed to anything, also cannot be glued - has to be screwed)
Phenolic: naturally smooth, flat, rigid, stable.

it usually boils down to what scrap you have at hand, but if you are making something more planned out - just find the material that suits the purpose of the jig you're building, and use that. sometimes more than 1 material for a jig.


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## TexasJim (Jul 16, 2009)

Another it depends. If it's a jig you are going to use a lot I would go with Baltic Birch ply and hardwood. For one time use, MDF or anything you have around. If you use MDF make sure you have good dust collection and a respirator would be a help, too. It makes awfully fine dust.


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## KentS (May 27, 2009)

I like *Baltic Birch*, Flame Maple and Bubinga. Yes it's overkill, but it makes great looking jigs.
degoose likes Purple Heart

I don't care for MDF on jigs unless it's a one time thing, then it's fine. It won't hold screws well.
However, it does have it's place.

Phenolic is great if you can afford it. Perfect for jigs you want to last forever.


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## JaMan (Sep 2, 2018)

Who is your favorite supplier and what is your favorite grade of phenolic resin sheet?


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

> I make jigs out of what I have.
> - GFYS


+


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

> I make jigs out of what I have.
> - GFYS
> 
> +
> ...


+


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

It really depends on whether the jig/fixture will be used often or as a one time use. If it is to be used for many duplicate parts, a more substantial material should be used, but if it is a one off job, it can be made from scrap materials and discarded afterwards.


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## BobAnderton (Oct 5, 2010)

In my town there's a pocket door factory that sells 3/4 baltic birch (Chinese) offcuts that are 24" x 16" for $1.50 a piece. That's my go-to material. If I need wider I go double thick and make the seams offset.


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

Mostly Baltic Birch. Supplemented with handy scraps. Not a fan of MDF.


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## CaptainKlutz (Apr 23, 2014)

> I d prefer to make them right the first time.
> - pete79


Yes, Make your jigs right 1st time and you will also be much happier using them!

IMHO - What to use depends on *How much you use the jig *and* How much time it requires to make it.*

:If you are using it most everyday, you want it to last as long as possible, and it takes many hours to build; then make it from toughest stuff you can find. You can not expect to use cheap stuff and expect jig to last.
Try to use things like: phenolic plywood, aluminum angle brackets, T-Tracks, UHMW plastic or aluminum runners, hard/stable hardwood, etc.

:If you only use the jig a few times a year, then can use most any wood that is stable and stores well in your environment. But, if jig takes all weekend to build, then consider using better materials (cabinet ply .vs. MDF) to avoid need to make another one in near future, thereby wasting your precious time.

:If you use the jig once or twice, then use what ever cheap stuff you have laying around.

As others mentioned:
Phenolic faced plywood is about best large panel material for permanent long wearing jigs. Most commercial hardwood suppliers likely have full size sheets much cheaper than Woodcraft source linked above if you need a lot of it. Second most durable/stable is birch cabinet grade plywood.

Many jigs need fences, or reinforcement brackets; and these need to be durable enough for intended use. Since most can't afford to use hardest woods for jigs, some will use other exotic hardwoods (like; Rosewood, Bubinga, Jatabo, Purple Heart, etc) as it makes the jigs look cool as well. Many cheap folks like me, use hard maple as a cost effect domestic choice due it's fine grain. Suggest any stable, fine grain, wood over ~1400 Janka hardness will make nice durable jig material.

When it comes to miter slides, I like UHMW plastic as it is lighter than aluminum and moisture resistant. Aluminum is my second favorite on 'forever' jigs. On large permanent table saw jigs, can save weight by using aluminum angle for fence and mount replaceable faces out of MDF to angle it needed.

Best Luck!


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## Rayne (Mar 9, 2014)

This is a 9 year old thread, but the original question was what is the preference and I have to say Baltic Birch would be the preference for any jig with very few exceptions. It's expensive, but as a preference, that would be it. Reality is dependent upon usage as some have stated.


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## ArtMann (Mar 1, 2016)

I don't know what the problem with MDF is unless people have a real dampness problem in their shops. I built a precision adjustable router table fence out of it some time before this thread was started (2009) and it is still as precise as it was when I built it.


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## WoodenDreams (Aug 23, 2018)

I make all my jigs with scrapes I have. I build all of my customer projects out of solid woods. so I have a lot of scrape wood, to be used at a later time. My two table saw sleds I make from old MDF w/a laminate face. I got them when I tore apart a MDF cabinet (from a customer that want a the cabinet replaced). With MDF you don't have to worry about possible sliver.


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## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

Somehow it double posted me, sorry for the space


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## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

> I made quite a few last year out of MDF, and now I am remakeing them. Very high humidity here durning the summer months and a lot of them have swelled up, so I am using plywood at a minimum. I bought a piece of UHMW plastic for my table saw fence, and have been using the left overs as much as I can. Depending on how much moisture you have to deal with mdf may do fine for you.
> 
> - drfixit


If ever in doubt about what your Rh runs, track this site for a year or two, and you will get a good idea.

Where I am we have off and on humidity from 30 to 99% year round, it just really feels humid in the Summer, but wood is always confused, and a substrate like MDF can get wonky easily if it isn't regularly supported, and it must have a very good coat of something to keep that moisture out, or as you mention it can balloon up. When that happens it usually is forever ruined as the layers of paper never quite lay back down as they are supposed to. SO for jigs. especially if accuracy is built into them MDF is out.

Back to the question, and it does vary with the size, and job the jig will do. So I do occasionally use UHMW plastics but just on small items. I once tried it on a TS sacrificial fence, and in the hot Summer it just about sags, so that is out. I do have a few small items I still use it on.

So that leaves me mostly Plywood. There it is a lot of the trusty, and dependable BB, but I do have a few items from Arauco Ply

Araucoply from the manufacturer.

I get mine at Menards. The 3/4" price is what HD sells the 1/2" for. It is made from that perfect looking pine Radiata Pine, which is the knot free stuff you see for the premium prices, compared to #2 pine that is the 3/4" thick stuff, usually ate up with knots, and crooked as a dogs hind leg. The trees are grown under strict pruning, so there are no lower limbs, which eliminates the knots. The outer plys aren't the thickest, but a track saw can cut it cleanly, and "SHARP" router bits can edge it without issues. There are a ton of other premium ply's but like Appleply, it is really expensive stuff.

I have made some jigs you know aren't gonna last, from well picked CDX plywood. Some of it is gappy, with a ton of knots, but if pick through a lift of it, you will find some sheets that you need to check the stamp to make sure somebody didn't throw in a premium price sheet.

I'm cheap, and I never take that top sheet, if it is the best I can get, I move along, but I'm in a fairly large market, and a 10 minute drive will have me pass by 2 more BORG's with similar offerings. Some days one place just isn't stocked with usable wood, Your options are; pay full price for junk, drive elsewhere, or wait to buy at a later date when the pickings are better.


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

For something really different, try Paperstone or Richlite.
These products are similar in that they are paper bonded with an adhesive under highpressure and neither has any mineral filler like Sandstone or Corian.
A full counter top is less costly than other solid man made or natural materials but it's still not in the price range of Baltic Birch or MDO.
However, remnants available in many different colors if you aren't too choosy.
I first starting using Paperstone when I was searching for someting between Formica or man made counter tops and I really like the way it worked.
These products cut easily with carbide tools, can be threaded, are high temp resistant, polish to a high luster if desired, and are really tough.

And, since paper was once wood, it should be right at home on this site!

See what this guy at Shinbudo makes out of Richlite material.

If you watch the *What is Richlite* on their web site it will lead you to additional videos by guitar makers who are using Richlite and some "experts" comparing Richlite to ebony for guitars.


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

I am working on a tool using remnants of Paperstone and I will show that when I am finished.


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