# Recycled timber work



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*The basics*

There are quite a few LJs asking about the pros and cons of working with recycled timber.
I use recycled timber regularly and thought my experiences may be of benefit to others.

Lets look at the availability and what's actually available from the bottom of the pile and then up to attractive sort after timber.

*From the bottom*

Packing crates, pallets and general shipping products.

Lets look at pallets,
They are generally made from a very diverse range of materials.

*Commercial Pallets*

The commercial reusable ones are usually hardwood and are not generally thrown away or discarded, so beware if it has a brand painted or has what looks like substantial construction and also very heavy it generally is not something you should touch without ensuring you have permission.

If you are able to get them they are usually always embedded with small stones on at least one side, masses of nails and possibly nail plates on the end grain.

Don't under any circumstances use your top end wood working gear on them, simply break them apart and reuse as is, they will last for years.

If you do need to work them accept the fact you will encounter foreign objects, stone, metal and just about anything else, hence the comment regarding top end wood working gear.

Ruin a tungsten blade, HSS Blade or the likes and the cost effectiveness of recycling is in one hit not sustainable.

This also includes magnetic loop testing beforehand, miss one object and its all over red rover.

*Packing Crates and soft wood pallets*

These are found just about everywhere and the businesses that have goods delivered in them are in most cases pleased to get rid of them at no cost to them.

Again just ask first, common courtesy and also check the conditions they expect you to comply to, meaning take everything, take whatever you want, and it usually comes with a don't make a mess doing so, this is also an etiquette requirement if collecting stuff, ensure the location is tidier when you leave that before you arrived and you will never have any problems and can return regularly to eye ball what is available.

*Recognition*

Usually of softwood construction, with composite materials like OSB, plywood, Plastic and Particle board being used in their construction is common.

*Foreign Objects*

Expect bolts and nuts, captive nuts , staples, screws, coach bolts, washers, Gang nail plate and heaps of machine inserted nails.

Now these nails/staples are a real concern, so read carefully,...they can recognised by a serrated section on the shank when you pull one out, or what looks like a small barb attached to the shank, look closely at them they are usually held together in strips by non ferrous wire! so here is the problem may arise, firstly the mag loop may not pick up the remaining metal in the timber, but it could be still embedded in the hole.









So plan to expect the unexpected

*The timbers themselves*

most of the timber is rough saw full of knots, weak points, twists, bark and all sorts of variances in thickness.

Considering its original role was a one task job its understandable.

However it can be reused with a little TLC.

You can also get some nice varieties of timber mixed in the pallets, as they are include for use as off cuts or sub standard structural timber discards.

The ply wood and OSB are usually D standard, meaning the gaps knots and the likes will be visible along with variances in thickness, but again you may find some small gems.

So after checking all this at the site you still decide its something you can use so it lets go a step further.

*Getting the gear home.*

*Loading requirements and the law.*

Don't assume just because its free you are exempt from any traffic laws, you are not, make sure you are not overloaded, the gear is secure and meets all requirement for transit.
Getting busted when moving recycled timber is not funny and again puts it into the not sustainable category yet again, it may have been "free" but you do not want to have a traffic fine in the process.

*At home*

You are now up for quite a bit of extra work, but that will do for now.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Shop management of recycled timber*

Ok so you have got your recycled timber home.

Depending on your circumstances the storage or immediate use is up to the individual.
*
Handling and Storage*

Remember its recycled wood discarded from a supplier so there will be possibly exposed nails and screws which could injure you, so use protective gloves if required and watch when stepping on the pile for puncture risks.

I forgot to mention earlier there is also a trend to use plastic pallets these days although not really of secondary use they can make a suitable base to store your timber on.

Normal timber storage requirements are needed much the same as your other stocks of timber.
This is a consideration needed to be done before hauling it home, and then when it is home as well as you don't want the wife getting annoyed whith your new found "treasure"

*Examination and breaking down*

A couple of possibilities are available depending upon what you intend for the timber.
Store it "as is" or break down and store

*Storing as is.*

Stack and or cover as normal timber,

*Breaking down. *

Have a good look at the timber and work out the best way to dismantle it.
There is a high possibility you may only recover 50% of the wood. 
For example if a section its full of nails it may be worthwhile sacrificing the complete section with the nail heads in and save the attached sections, but sometimes the nails final position upon removal will make this decision for you!

*If its a pallet or butt jointed timber with nails.*

Suspend one half high enough for all the nails to withdraw when separated, place a piece of scrap timber on the other half and hit with a sledge hammer or similar this will separate the pieces.
repeat the process until everything is in individual sections.

*If it has Nail plates.*









Nail plates are fairly easy to remove if you know how so,

Armed with an old screwdriver or chisel find the terminating end of the timber and prise up the nail plate.









Then with a big pair of pliers roll the nail plate out over itself do this as its the easiest way to remove them and it does not to bruise the timber any more that necessary.









*T Nuts*










T nuts are easy to remove just select a screw of suitable size and wiggle them out by hand, you may want to keep them for later reuse.

*Nails.*

Nails can be removed by a series of methods. 
One and the most simplest method is tapping back from the point end until the head is exposed the using a claw hammer and scrap remove the nails.

*Nail clusters*

Sometimes there are a cluster of nails you cannot get to easily.

You can also use a metal working vice and clamp the nails and with a piece of scrap tap the timber to remove a cluster of nails, once the heads are exposed simply invert the timber and clamp the heads and lever the wood to remove them all at once.

Big Bolts, Screws, washers and coach type bolts.

These are some of the types of fasteners that you can remove and reuse.
Bolts just undo them with a suitable size tool, if the have nuts at each and turn you can grind them off or clamp with vice grips on the shank.

Screws, they come in all shapes and sizes recessed hex Robertson head, plain and cross recessed.
Again select a suitable tool and remove, also a possible consideration for reuse.

Staples.
Grasp with a pair of bull nose pliers and pull straight up, in most cases they come straight out, if not lever the center up with a screwdriver or similar and try again.

Stubborn objects and head breaking off.

These pose  a real problem for later, especially if they are forgotten because the are hard to see so get a black texta or similar and mark the area clearly so the area with the remainder can be identified later. 
Screws not moving ? Try screwing them in first then try to back them out.

If they snap off above the timber on the way out chuck them up and battery drill them out, or clamp vice grips on them.

OK all finished?

Well I did warn you there was some extra work involved when working with recycled timber and this is the easy part over, well almost over.

*Clean up time*

Scraps.

Metal 
recycle bin or reuse, don't leave nails screws and the likes just lying about for the mower to find or motorcycle to be suddenly fitted with an ice spike tyre. let alone somebody stepping on one.

Timber 
A word of caution, do not burn any scraps in your SCS unless you can positively identify what it is, as preservative treatments, and or glue may/will produce toxic gas on combustion.
best to go into the Scrap bin for reuse, or general waste bin for disposal


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## sixstring (Apr 4, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Shop management of recycled timber*
> 
> Ok so you have got your recycled timber home.
> 
> ...


I pick up church pews when I can and always break them down first. I even keep the hardware that's worth saving… screws, bracket/supports, washers.

Used lumber I will inspect for nails/screws and take out any that are obvious. Then it goes into my "better check this with a metal detector pile" until I get around to it, but at least I know not to use material from this pile. Afterwards, it goes into either my church pew pile (backs, seats, supports, and a box of bits and what i call knuckles (funky joined pieces that were easier to just cut out… I'd like to find a project for these since I dont have the heart to chuck it.)

The more I think about it, the more I realized that working with reclaimed stuff is a lot of work and not the most efficient use of time… But on the other hand, the material is saved from the dump. In time, we will all be working with reclaimed material so I figure it's good to get an early start, especially while the pickings are good.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

robscastle said:


> *Shop management of recycled timber*
> 
> Ok so you have got your recycled timber home.
> 
> ...


My tip for recycling used lumber: a set of horseshoe pulloffs is a better nail/staple puller than a claw hammer or nail bar by far! Diamond brand pulloffs are the most economical and are what I use.


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Shop management of recycled timber*
> 
> Ok so you have got your recycled timber home.
> 
> ...


To get nails out old barn timbers I chiseled out around the heads enough to clamp onto them with vise grips. Most of the heads were rusted off. I also bought a metal detector from amazon that was $30, but priceless actually.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*When you are onto something really good*

OK this is something everybody into recycling should know.

*Some really brilliant tips.*

Attached to my Working with recycled timber blogs are excellent tips fellow LJs have taken the time to pass on, and they directly add additional knowledge to the subject matter I was covering.

I personally think they are very worthwhile and are essential contributions to the WW knowledge bank,

It provides the two heads are better than one (or in some cases three) for situations.

So along with me recognising their valuable contributions I also recommend you to go back and have a read directly from their own words and their documented experience.

Here is me thinking I am the only person poor enough to go scrounging for recycled materials !

*a P.S. *

Remember the frame I showed that had some felt strips stapled on it?... well my wife saw them it and made a set of inner soles for her gum boots with them, talk about quick!

Keep watching


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## palaswood (Aug 9, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *When you are onto something really good*
> 
> OK this is something everybody into recycling should know.
> 
> ...


Thats a great tidbit about your wife reusing the felt strips. I spend about 1 hour each day foraging for wood that is tossed by local businesses around where I work. I have SO much hardware now, I dont know what to do with it. Sometimes, the wood is crap but the hardware is fantastic. I have some huge bolts I picked up from a shipping crate that wasnt going anywhere (HUGE), but these things must cost 5 bucks apiece! I also got about 20 of those hose clamps with the screw. Im sure i'll find something to use them on. Great blog series btw.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Recovering / repairing or breaking down wood*

There are lots of furniture items about which end up in a street clean up.

I saw a blue painted set of drawers which appeared on vacant block near me some time ago, I didn't take much notice of it but just watched it.

It didn't move for a couple of days so I went over and checked it out, when I opened a drawer I saw it was assembled using blind dovetails in it so I decided to bring it home.

Once I got it back home and had a good look at it was worthwhile sanding the paint off.

So I set to work,

About 2 hours later this was the result.










There were a few handles missing but it scrubbed up reasonably well
I don't know what the timber is but its possibly a pine specis.










This is a shot of the dovetails I saw that encouraged me to recover it and see what it was










I missed taking a good before picture mainly because it didn't think it was something to report on.
But I left the back panel in its original found condition, the photo is a bit dark, but you may possibly see how it was.










Here is a shot of the top.

All that was required to return it to the condition seen in the photos was a 1/2 sheet sander, a screwdriver to remove the handles and a scraper to clean out the profile sections.

A rare effort I would think some paint jobs are just too much work.

This was what I would call a gem of a find, and doesn't happen often, as most furniture that gets disposed off is usually only Particle board based or MDF.

So there you go sometimes there is not a lot of work required to recover wood back to its original condition but I guess its the exception in this case.

Next I will show the process in breaking down some timber shelving we removed from a house reno and the steps I took to return the timber back to useable stock.


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## CampD (Nov 8, 2008)

robscastle said:


> *Recovering / repairing or breaking down wood*
> 
> There are lots of furniture items about which end up in a street clean up.
> 
> ...


Nice save


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

robscastle said:


> *Recovering / repairing or breaking down wood*
> 
> There are lots of furniture items about which end up in a street clean up.
> 
> ...


Great save. Looks more like pecan/hickory to me. I don't see the dents and dings I would expect with a softer wood. You did a super job on this! I would have seen the paint and passed.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Some Recycled furniture Timber and Perils of Foreign Objects*

In my last Blog I closed with a comment I was doing a refurbishment and had recovered some timber for reuse.

So lets look at the results that can be obtained.

*Background.*

It was a pine cabinet which had been stained with a dark finish.

The timber I worked with in this first section had already been dressed.
So reducing stock below standard thickness and then attempting to use it in conjunction with other projects needs to be considered, as it may well end up being more problems than its worth, however if its backing or base items it may go unnoticed.

*This is the Pine Stock I worked with*

I didn't take a before shot so you will have to imagine the timber with a stain on it similar these in this image.









*A couple of runs through the drum sander and the follow results were achieved.*









*The stained surface can be almost sanded away completely*









Dings, they are to be expected in recycle timber, and its best to live with them as complete removal may waste your time an the material.
Recycling timber this thin definitely relegates it to the back or an out of sight area on a project for its 2nd life.

*Large size Pine stock*

This is a combined before and after shot, of two large pieces, over 32mm sanded with 80 Grit in the drum sander.

So with the increased thickness you now have a more practical ability to reuse the timber and maintain a standard thickness.

The pieces were the bottom of a Jet Ski crate!










*Some Oregon I sanded and the results.*

These were over 22mm so had the thickness for a reuse in life
They were the cross braces in the crate I showed in a previous blog with the felt on them

After removing the nail plates and checking they looked OK to go. 









Into the Drum sander they they went and were sanded to 80 G.









*Finding Foreign Objects (FO) by eye.*

Now if you do not have any electronic means to detect FOs don't be too put off, a visual check can be just as good, then followed up by a sanding, and if the unfortunate happens better to damage a belt than a knife.

Here is the suspect item and there appears to a entry point but nothing visible.









After a couple of sanding passes its definitely a nail.
This is the A Side 









This is the B side 









This is a small staple/brad or the likes, and will not do permanent damage to the drum sander belt, or if any damage its minimal, otherwise its a change out no real big deal.

Better to find it sanding than thicknessing.

Enjoy


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## palaswood (Aug 9, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Some Recycled furniture Timber and Perils of Foreign Objects*
> 
> In my last Blog I closed with a comment I was doing a refurbishment and had recovered some timber for reuse.
> 
> ...


So how did you get it out? Did you get it out?

I have a bunch of boards I got from a pallet of plywood from China, and its Rubber wood. Really pretty stuff, but its full of crappy chinese nails that the heads kept popping off when breaking it down.

I need a good method for removing these. The wood is hard, so they dont just come out by pulling.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Some Recycled furniture Timber and Perils of Foreign Objects*
> 
> In my last Blog I closed with a comment I was doing a refurbishment and had recovered some timber for reuse.
> 
> ...


From memory as there was a split near the end I just cut the section out.

I have seen the nails you speak about, and I think there is a suite of screws made from the same material
the heads round out as you try to insert them.

Have a look at my blog sanding surprise its a tek screw or similar the extraction is messy and requires using plug cutters to refill the hole. You may be able to do the same on a smaller scale


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*TJB Woodie and Jessie Picture frame*

I made this picture frame up after number four Son Toby and his lovely lady Ashlee visited over the weekend.










*Background:*

*Outfits:*

We all went to a birthday party for number one son Adam's son Rocky, it was a cowboy theme so that explains the outfits in the post.


















*The Frame:*










The picture frame was inspired by Toby's interest in "rustic" use of recycled timber.

*The timber:*

The timber used is Oregon/Douglas Fir and was in its previous life a rail from a packing crate.

*The process:*

Step 1. The timber was checked for FOs and initially thicknessed on the table saw then finally the jointer after that back to the table saw to be sawn in half.
Step 2. the edges were biscuit jointed and glued with Titebond III and clamped together.
Step 3. A full size template of the picture sizes and Final frame was constructed. The templates used to lay out the photos and to route out the profiles.


















Step 4. The picture frame outlines were marked on the timber and the waste drilled out on four corners and then using a jig saw the bulk material removed.
Step 5 The frame was attached to the template and the final front size of the frame routed out.
This was done using a portable router fitted with a suitable sized bush and a straight spiral 1/2" router bit.

Step 6. Then using a rebate bit and fitted with a suitable sized bearing routed the recess for the picture frame Perspex window, picture and backing board.

I chose to use the shaper freehand for the next steps but a hand held router is still OK.









Step 7. Using a bearing mounted 45 deg router bit ran a chamfer on the inside of each frame window.









Then using the same bit at a lowered position chamfered the top and two sides. 
Step 8 Cut two rear support and tapered the base of the frame and one side of each support at 10 deg.









Step 9. Sanded everything with a rotary flap sectored sanding drum.









Step 10. Attached the supports filled a couple of nail holes and applied a coat of sanding sealer


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## palaswood (Aug 9, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *TJB Woodie and Jessie Picture frame*
> 
> I made this picture frame up after number four Son Toby and his lovely lady Ashlee visited over the weekend.
> 
> ...


That is FANTASTIC! What a great idea. I mean, a picture frame, yeah, sure, no big deal right? WRONG! This is totally awesome. I really enjoy how you broke down the process into steps with pictures.

The frame itself has a nifty design too. Very cool.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*20 Stave Drum. Stock preparation *

I have enough timber to reattempt making staves, in particular a 20 stave drum is the project.

My last attempt to make staves gave me so much grief at the glue up stage I almost binned everything mid process in sheer frustration.
It was only after walking away from the activity temporarily I found the confidence to try again.
I eventually had a encouraging limited success with the activity.

Then it was only just recently, after reading Julian's Router Jig for Making Round Boxes a couple of times it encouraged me to try again. I don't intend to round the drum at this stage maybe next time!

I made the staves from bulk stock which was resawn on the table saw to suit the project.










The staves were flattened and squared on the Jointer and trued on the table saw as I cut an 9 Deg angle on each side. Being 360 degrees divided by the 20 staves then divided by 2 to determine the cut angle for each side of the stave.

Because I didn't want the stock jamming under the right tilted blade I set the rip fence on the left of the blade and recalibrated the parallelism of the fence and checked everything was going to work as required.










Using feather boards and downward pressure all the staves were cut successfully

The staves are all 450mm in length and are 89mm wide at the outside edge with 15mm being the thickness.

With all the stock laid out against a straight edge and square a dry fit up check confirmed all was good to go for the glue up.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *20 Stave Drum. Stock preparation *
> 
> I have enough timber to reattempt making staves, in particular a 20 stave drum is the project.
> 
> ...


Interesting


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*20 Stave Drum. Stave glue up*

OK after laying out the staves and using painters tape to hold everything together I applied a bead of Tite Bond III glue to each stave edge and attempted to roll them up together to form the cylinder, well it did not work well staves fell off the tape so I had to apply painters tape on the inside to hold them together as I rolled them into the cylinder.

The tape started breaking away and then started being a nuisance, so I quickly applied a run of electrical tape all around the outside to hold everything together firmly, this worked well and I would do it again for the next time.

Its a good thing the glue has a reasonable work time as it allowed me to align everything and reglue some sections

At this stage I was at a loss as to how to apply a reasonable amount of pressure other than that of the electrical tape.

So I decided to use my shock cord and simply pull it tight and knot it off.

With a few diagonal checks for concentricity and then removing all the painters tape I left everything to set overnight.










The next morning I found the glue up had gone well but found the cylinder was very prone to cracking the joints in its bare state if mishandled.

So the next stage was to add strengthening ribs/sections to each end.
I cut a few sections to determine the correct size and dry fitted them in, The appeared to fit up OK so I cut the remaining 15 or so.

It was when I fitted them all in I found I needed to trim a few with about 2mm to compensate for some creepage.

After that each fitted in and were snug enough that even at dry fit up they did not fall out when I picked up the cylinder.

Happy with this I dismantled the sections glued them up and refitted them.

It was at this stage I used a ratchet strap the apply an even pressure around the cylinder, checked the diameters again and left them for the glue to set.










I didn't take a photo with the ratchet strap fitted but I think you can get the picture.

Once the glue was dry I sanded everything from 40 Grit up to 120 grit.

*A note:*

I made a fairly silly mistake not sanding each stave before assembly as I made it hard for myself doing it with the drum assembled as it was very easy to round over the edge if not very careful. (A lesson learned for next time) *Sand everything prior to glue up! *


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *20 Stave Drum. Stave glue up*
> 
> OK after laying out the staves and using painters tape to hold everything together I applied a bead of Tite Bond III glue to each stave edge and attempted to roll them up together to form the cylinder, well it did not work well staves fell off the tape so I had to apply painters tape on the inside to hold them together as I rolled them into the cylinder.
> 
> ...


Ahh, more interesting


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*20 Stave Drum. Routing the Staves*

The drum cylinder section is now complete and reasonably ridged enough to handle.

Now all I need is to decide what pattern to apply to the staves.
Initially I was going to use my 3D router Carver but the narrow staves discounted it fairly early.

I then thought about putting circles on each stave, but decided against it as being plain and boring after making the pattern and doing a test run and seeing the result.

So I decided to go with an duplicated elongated pattern.

I set about modifying the pattern template, actually I made about three in the process as I developed the final "design", If you could call it that.

*Some that fell by the wayside!*










The final Pattern is a composite of the first two cut up as the positioning was too close to the edges, and by this stage I was getting a little annoyed with myself in being not able to make a simple pattern that complemented the drum!

*Here is the final Pattern template in use.*










The reason its looking like a Frankenstein creation is because that's exactly what it is the original design needed to be moved toward the center of the drum for aspect reasons so I cut it up reversed it and added a section in the middle to set the position, the end circles were the first attempt, plus I was running out of time and wood.

*How it was made, apart from the obvious, *

Using a forstner bit three 40mm holes were cut with the pedestal drill with the center hole overlapping.
The router table and a straight bit was then used to mill the remaining material out from circle to circle to make parallel edges joining edges to the outer circles.

Two strengthening ribs were added to the sides and little sanding to remove burrs etc and it was finished.

What's the LT and RT all about? Well even after cutting everything precisely as possible the symmetry was still out a few mm horizontally if the template was inverted.
I fitted the pattern template with 'wings" so I could clamp it using spring clamps in position quickly and efficiently and not have any movement.

A hand router was then set up with 20mm bush and 15mm core bit ready to go.



















A test run to determine a suitable depth was done then on with the template and route away.

This is the finished product.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *20 Stave Drum. Routing the Staves*
> 
> The drum cylinder section is now complete and reasonably ridged enough to handle.
> 
> ...


I like it


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

robscastle said:


> *20 Stave Drum. Routing the Staves*
> 
> The drum cylinder section is now complete and reasonably ridged enough to handle.
> 
> ...


I built a lot of drums when I was younger. Tapered
ones are easier to assemble because I would weld
up rings and just pound them down the taper to
clamp.

For straight sided forms I would use pinch dogs to
glue staves together in pairs, then in 4s and so forth.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Attaching the base, base trim and a reinforcing ring*

The drum project is progressing well.

The base was cut from a piece of 15mm ply and attached with a "few" screws and glue.

I sat the drum on the ply traced a line around the outside and cut the profile out on the bandsaw then ran a straight bearing mounted router bit around the edge to cut it back parallel and smooth










I had some concerns about the segments at the top breaking off if somebody stood on the drum so I made a reinforcing ring to support them all.










I had to make the ring in two pieces as the ply was smaller than the diameter.
I attached it inside with a "few " more screws.










The drum is now almost "bullet proof" in fact I may add wheels and use it as a stock bin.

Next was the attachment of the base trim, this was a fiddly job as I custom measured and cut each piece to match.

Initially I cut about three segments at once but found there were too many slight errors accumulating and making The base trim look bad.

The trim was made on the shaper and sliced it off a larger piece of stock.

I used painters tape to hold them in place as I worked around the drum, then attached a ratchet strap to apply some pressure while the glue set.

As I was doing the trim I noticed lots of nail holes, these I was going to leave as a feature but decided to plug them with bamboo skewers, (just happened to find them in Aurora's kitchen again!)



















I forgot to add a completed base trim photo


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## wiswood2 (Apr 12, 2008)

robscastle said:


> *Attaching the base, base trim and a reinforcing ring*
> 
> The drum project is progressing well.
> 
> ...


Very nice looking job.
Chuck


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Attaching the base, base trim and a reinforcing ring*
> 
> The drum project is progressing well.
> 
> ...


Wow!


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Sometimes things do not go well*

Yesterday I spent all day sawing up a couple of hardwood pallet slats.

I was trying to make a octagonal 20 deg slope sides tray.

I must have spent countless hours sawing up material to ensure I could do what I had imagined.

However when I thought I had the system down pat I had sections going off at different planes.

So I sawed everything up again and met with the same result.

I then Googled wood working stave work and found some formulas worthy of a Prince Phillip design award, regardless I tried them, my instinct told me It would not work, sure enough it didn't.

P.S. In defence of the posted formula's I have to admit t didn't fully understand the sine co sine explanation and the long string mathematical formula's, wood working doesn't need to be that complex Moses managed it.

What could I be doing wrong I thought it cannot be that hard? so I tried and tried and failed and failed.

Just as I was about to give up I remembered I had made a vase holder for my wife some time ago and it worked OK and without any complicated formulas,,......it then dawned on me I was cutting the material in the incorrect plane, I had it flat on the drop saw table instead of vertical.

Doh What a dummy!!

To confirm that the errors were solely user related I did a test cut on some scrap pieces to confirm.

I cut a few pieces and mated them up all was good!

So I set to work in Ernst making more material cutting it to length making handles designing in a way of stepping down from the high ends with the handles to the sides.

Routing in the handles, sanding everything up ready to assemble.

Now trying to clamp together a frame with a 20 deg slope was not going to be easy.

So I decided to use "0" biscuits as splines.

The next dilemma was how to cut a biscuit slot into material with a 22.5 degree angle and 10 deg slope on each half of the ends.

I made a jig to do it and it did it well. I will post the Jig as a blog later.










Upon doing a test cut found that the stock I had prepared was too narrow for the biscuits and they protruded out the top and bottom, not good.

So I decided I would off set them and trim off the exposed section of the biscuit.
Result was almost acceptable but far from professional

I dry assembled everything and checked the the angles they looked bad, so I dismantled everything and sanded the edge of the miss match, hoping to correct the problem, re assembled everything and it looked worse,..... I had sanded the incorrect edge, so its pull everything down and redo the angle.
This time it was not as bad but still not acceptable.

Its go to the bin time I am thinking. ponder ponder.

Two days and with the use of fancy wood working tools I have managed to produce nothing but rubbish!

Any way I decide to do a glue up and see what the result is after all its only reclaimed timber.

I have go to learn how to do this I tell myself!

Ever tried to clamp a project with sloping sides, its almost impossible, any way I decided to clamp the sections down on to temporary bench and tried to clamp it, another fail










Time to step back and have a beer it will still be there tomorrow!


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Sometimes things do not go well*
> 
> Yesterday I spent all day sawing up a couple of hardwood pallet slats.
> 
> ...


Very nice tray design Robert.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*sanding Activity and the results*

I scavenged this piece of Huon Pine from a renovation some time ago, we were pulling out some old cupboards and doors.

Its the bottom panel from a door and if you check my Door what door? Blog you will see it there.










Size was 620 mm x 450 mm x 10mm

There was about eight layers of paint/varnish on each side.










With a half sheet sander and 4 x sheets of 40 grit I set to work

The A side in progress










The B Side I didn't take a in progress shot

The A side finished










The B side finished.
Don't mind the foot!










Once I had the layers of paint off I ran it through the drum sander with 120grit, I was not game to let the drum sander loose on it first up due to the high risk of clogging up the belts..

Its going to be the base for my Sloped Side Tray if I ever figure out how to do the joints.

The reason I used it was the fact it was a single span piece of timber and will look very nice in the tray.

Spent another day on it trying to figure out the cutting of the joints.

So a break from a very frustrating project was well received.

A word of warning,

Sanding materials from old houses with paint on them may expose you to lead based paint dust as you work, so make sure you have and wear a dust mask and if you can, hook up the vac to the sander


----------



## palaswood (Aug 9, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *sanding Activity and the results*
> 
> I scavenged this piece of Huon Pine from a renovation some time ago, we were pulling out some old cupboards and doors.
> 
> ...


Wonderful piece of reclaiming - I love the shot where you can see all the layers of paint/varnish from over the years.

Really gives you a sense of history about the stock.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *sanding Activity and the results*
> 
> I scavenged this piece of Huon Pine from a renovation some time ago, we were pulling out some old cupboards and doors.
> 
> ...


I never gave the history any thought until now.
Its a pity we don't have the "equipment" available to trace the supplier of the materials and then check it on a data base, not unlike DNA tracing.

I know I for one would be interested to hear from somebody that has identified a piece of my work, (If I was still alive that is)

Looking at the photo you can see that some one has spent many hours painting and repainting the wood
May be a newly married couple did it together after saving up for their new home! Who knows!

I am sure if anybody contacted me about some timber my Dad or Grandfather originally owned I would be chuffed!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Hidden Feature !*

Here is a series of shots I took when working the timber for my octagonal trays.

You may remember, (if you read it that is) of a previous blog highlighting the remaining metal from power driven nails linked with wire.

Well here are the photos showing the FOD exposed after I has sawn it up, and another showing embedded metal in other places except the nail holes.

*Picture No 1.*

Showing residual metal lying inside the nail hole and only visible after cutting with the saw.
Not sure if a metal detector would pick this up being so small but it is ferrous. The timber is about 3/4 inch or 19mm for comparison.










*Picture No 2.*

Sorry about this one being blurred but it was my attempt to try and do a close up of Picture No 1










*Picture No 3.*

This is another piece of the same timber stock and yet another embedded shard of metal this time picked up visually after drum sanding, luckily the timber didn't get thicknessed or Jointed as I am sure it would have nicked the blades for sure.

Now I am not sure if its really that visible, so check the top right nail hole and then look at about 7 O'clock and there it is lying in the surface at the top right of the small rice grain shaped knot.
I am not saying this was the result of a nail but just the same detris you could do without.


----------



## Doe (Aug 26, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Hidden Feature !*
> 
> Here is a series of shots I took when working the timber for my octagonal trays.
> 
> ...


That looks like really scary stuff. I understand that you could nick the blade, but what happens to the wood if you hit the metal? Or more specifically, what could happen to you?


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Hidden Feature !*
> 
> Here is a series of shots I took when working the timber for my octagonal trays.
> 
> ...


One of the scary parts about using salvaged wood and also urban trees.


----------



## palaswood (Aug 9, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Hidden Feature !*
> 
> Here is a series of shots I took when working the timber for my octagonal trays.
> 
> ...


What species is that? Did you get that from a shipping pallet?

Looks like the Rubber wood im finding lately…

I posted about it here


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Hidden Feature !*
> 
> Here is a series of shots I took when working the timber for my octagonal trays.
> 
> ...


Joseph,

Yes it was a pallet, I attempted to identify the species but was unsucessful

It has a distinct yellow streak/blotch in it which is full penetration, so its natural.

I will go check out your link as I would love to know what it is purely for idle curisoity


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Concrete Cancer almost got me*

After a day at Degoose's shop checking out his CNC and getting the new Spa powered up I returned home with yet another boot load of his fine timber.

I unloaded everything and stashed it all away and then went to go inside to relax and some refreshments, however as I stepped onto the first step of the stairs it almost broke in half!

What the !! I thought how could that be?










Checking underneath I saw the reason metal corrosion had fractured the step beyond repair










So it was back down stairs to my recycled wood stash.










After rummaging through my recycled stock I found the perfect solution.
So it was back out with the wood working tools this time and set to work.










I am not sure what the timber is but its certainly fixed the initial problem










End view










I then did a further inspection and found sign of more pending problems.










So it looks like I will be looking for quite a lot more of whatever this timber is.

How I produced the first step.

I found a suitable piece the exact width and about 1m long so a used my 1/2 sander and 40 Grit to clean it up
Cut a 5 deg cut on each end with the drop saw making it 910 mm long.

I then set up my drum sander with 60 grit and spent almost half an hour wrestling the monster it in and out of the sander.
Once I was happy with the finish I sanded the chamfer on the edges with the hand sander, and then gave it a generous coat of sanding sealer.
Set it in place and marked out the alignment holes.
Drilled and coach bolted it on from underneath.

Fixed in the short term !!


----------



## PASs (Dec 1, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Concrete Cancer almost got me*
> 
> After a day at Degoose's shop checking out his CNC and getting the new Spa powered up I returned home with yet another boot load of his fine timber.
> 
> ...


Good thing it only half broke!


----------



## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Concrete Cancer almost got me*
> 
> After a day at Degoose's shop checking out his CNC and getting the new Spa powered up I returned home with yet another boot load of his fine timber.
> 
> ...


Glad you are not injured… nice save on the stairs


----------



## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Concrete Cancer almost got me*
> 
> After a day at Degoose's shop checking out his CNC and getting the new Spa powered up I returned home with yet another boot load of his fine timber.
> 
> ...


What a beak (not just literally either) that it ended without serious injury. I bet this is more common that we may think. But wood is an abundant resource and just right for the repair


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*When working on Step No 2 a sanding surprise*

If you read my Concrete Cancer Blog you would have seen the ongoing work that I needed to do in step repair.

Well I found yet another piece of timber in my stash suitable for step No 2

It was in a reasonable condition, a couple of screw holes but nothing obvious FO wise, but will require a jointer and thicknesser run to remove some slight twist before installation.

So I began preparing it much the same as with Step No 1 before.
Again I am not sure what the timber is but it weight a "ton" and looked to be the same material from the end grain view.

So out with the cut off saw again and cut off the rubbish using a 5 deg slope.










A trim to length on the other end has it ready for an initial clean up sanding










Now when I started sanding at 40 Grit I found two hidden treasures!









Apart from being metal just exactly what the were is unknown at this stage.










The removal of them now took priority on the stair work as I didn't want them as part of the build.

They were fairly substantial size so I guessed they were screws.

I initially exposed them with my plug cutter and tried to remove them but they would not budge.










Trying to cut away the timber with my plug cutter was not good for it so I swapped it for a metal hole saw.
I needed to remove the pilot drill but as I had a dish recess it was no bother to control









I now needed to remove the timber from around the object so I used one of my small electrical screwdrivers to chisel it out









After removal of the waste it was clear that the FO was in fact some sort of screw.

Back into my electrical tool box and retrieve my stud extraction pliers. These pliers are specifically designed to remove Broken studs in electrical appliances, and have a rounded jaw at the front so I assumed they would work just as well with wood.









With quite a bit of persuasion I remove a screw from the timber, and it was huge, possibly a tek screw of which the head screwed off going into the timber!
You can see the jaws profile in this shot









I repeated the process on the second screw and again was successful in its removal.

I think I heard three cheers coming from my sander thicknesser and jointer on job completion!!

That's the sort of FO that would definitely total blades in one hit let alone just nick them!










That was it for the day the rest is much the same routine as before so I will not bore you any more.

A good result and what could have been a very nasty example of FO in recycled timber.

I might look at buying a metal detector as the FO was definitely not visible at the initial inspection or when I sawed it up

Enjoy


----------



## hoosier0311 (Nov 8, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *When working on Step No 2 a sanding surprise*
> 
> If you read my Concrete Cancer Blog you would have seen the ongoing work that I needed to do in step repair.
> 
> ...


I make alot of things with pallets, I have sets of blades for the TS and planer that I deem "sacrificial" just for this reason. If I roached a nice ridge carbide blade by wacking a leftover lag bolt,,,,,,,,well,,, I would cry like a little girl.


----------



## palaswood (Aug 9, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *When working on Step No 2 a sanding surprise*
> 
> If you read my Concrete Cancer Blog you would have seen the ongoing work that I needed to do in step repair.
> 
> ...


that's a great idea, using a sacrificial balde. I reclaim almost all my wood so I better be careful.

nice save!


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *When working on Step No 2 a sanding surprise*
> 
> If you read my Concrete Cancer Blog you would have seen the ongoing work that I needed to do in step repair.
> 
> ...


Yikes! That'll hurt yer tools.


----------



## woodshaver (Mar 21, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *When working on Step No 2 a sanding surprise*
> 
> If you read my Concrete Cancer Blog you would have seen the ongoing work that I needed to do in step repair.
> 
> ...


I had a little hunk of metal soot out of my planer once. Glad I was standing off to the side!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Step 2 complete*

Well we now have two wooden steps the stairs they look a bit odd with a top and bottom step made from timber, but we will have to live with it for a while.

You saw the screw removal in the previous blog, so I will not bore you with and repeats.

*The process*

After removing the two broken screws I cut four plugs from the offcut and inserted them. 
Reason being I wanted to use the timber with the damaged side facing up.

Did the sander routine again only I started with 32 Grit this time and finished with 60 Grit

Although I used the offcuts to cut the plugs from they didn't seem to match very well.

Sanding sealer on everything again, for a protective coat and will possibly 2 pack them for the final finish, the drying time is the problem.

You can bet if you paint them a unexpected visitor will arrive before its dry!!

*Plugging the holes*
!https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/mtex33q.jpg

*Cutting off the excess*










Sealed ready for fit up.

!









Fitted in Place









Well that's all from me for a few weeks I am off to Sydney to do electrical work for two weeks.


----------



## palaswood (Aug 9, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Step 2 complete*
> 
> Well we now have two wooden steps the stairs they look a bit odd with a top and bottom step made from timber, but we will have to live with it for a while.
> 
> ...


Enoy your trip! I think it looks fantastic. Well done. Oh, and I found some FOs in my "rubberwood" board that I was planing. Some sort of wire screwed in somehow.










How the hell am i gonna get THIS out?!

Any ideas?


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Step 2 complete*
> 
> Well we now have two wooden steps the stairs they look a bit odd with a top and bottom step made from timber, but we will have to live with it for a while.
> 
> ...


One would think its possibly the wire that links the nails together, but its too uniform! and usually doesn't spiral like that! 
Otherwise I don't have a clue, apart from using a pair of needle nose pliers maybe …very weird!!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Pallet Step stools*

I submitted a repair procedure for Potato Crates for our local chip manufacturer.

The potato Crate is a skid with four sides on 1.2m x 1.2m x
1.3m high all hardwood construction with angle iron cover strips on the four corners.

It holds 900 kgs of potatoes as they are unloaded from road transport, then inbound for the cool room before processing, usually within 24hr of arrival they are in Chip Packet ready for distribution!

There is a shot of a couple at the Processing Plant










Being hardwood they are heavy suckers and to service them you need to get inside to remove bolts to release the cover strips to get to the slats, of which the damaged ones are at the bottom, typical.

The fork lift tines damage the bottom of the frame causing possible foreign objects in the chips










Nothing like ingesting a piece of hardwood for roughage!!

Trying to get in and out of a 1.3m high pallet was a task for me so the Pallet Step Stools were designed

I paid my recycled timber a visit to source the materials.
What other materials could one use to make a Pallet Step Stool but recycled pallet bits!









As a result produced two of these, one for outside and one for inside the crate.


















Dimensions:

Height about 625mm 
Top surface 400mm x 400mm
Leg and brace angles 10 Degrees
Intermediate step braces are 15 degrees.
Held together with Treated screws 32mm or 50mm dependent on the role.

Here they are primed and finished, the distressed look comes as a bonus too, no extra work there.









Awaiting the results of the quote otherwise they will be re employed around the house assisting in painting and other tasks, like looking in the floor roof area for possums!!


----------



## wiswood2 (Apr 12, 2008)

robscastle said:


> *Pallet Step stools*
> 
> I submitted a repair procedure for Potato Crates for our local chip manufacturer.
> 
> ...


Very nice job.
Chuck


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Pallet Step stools*
> 
> I submitted a repair procedure for Potato Crates for our local chip manufacturer.
> 
> ...


Handy dandy step stool. Very stout also


----------



## Handtooler (Jul 24, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Pallet Step stools*
> 
> I submitted a repair procedure for Potato Crates for our local chip manufacturer.
> 
> ...


Ingenuity exudes in all forms, here on LJ! "Ya Done Good."


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Pallet Step stools*
> 
> I submitted a repair procedure for Potato Crates for our local chip manufacturer.
> 
> ...


Nice work from recycled pallets! I hope your bid is successful Robert.


----------



## moonie (Jun 18, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Pallet Step stools*
> 
> I submitted a repair procedure for Potato Crates for our local chip manufacturer.
> 
> ...


Nice work Rob.


----------



## Roughedges (Dec 10, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Pallet Step stools*
> 
> I submitted a repair procedure for Potato Crates for our local chip manufacturer.
> 
> ...


Cool Step Stools! Good Job


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Pallet Mower Shed*

I was able to collect some metal pallets and conventional pallets from a business near by.

I spoke with the owner and he has pleased that somebody could, 1 Take them away, and 2. Make use of it all.

So after a few trips home I have it all in the yard, much to the annoyance of Aurora, best get it all de nailed stacked and put to use PDQ!

So I used an angle grinder to cut the front section out of two of the metal frames and use one to stack reclaimed timber in.










The other I cut a side out of and used it to make the Mower Shed

First up I built the roof structure.



















Made the traditional Joints and assembled it onto the frame.



















Then it was on with the Floor and sides, its great being able to roll the building around so assembly was easier!









The floor was simply the pallet frame parts cut to length and fitted with a sheet of ply.

The walls were all rebated and screwed onto battens that I had fastened with screws to the metal banding



















I can see the mowers getting evicted and some little people setting up in it for a tea party or such so I ground off all sharp protruding screws and any other sharp objects which may cause an injury.

A coat of River gum Green and it was positioned in the back of the garden.

Lots of timber gone and some clutter tidied up in the process.


----------



## moonie (Jun 18, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Pallet Mower Shed*
> 
> I was able to collect some metal pallets and conventional pallets from a business near by.
> 
> ...


nice work rob thats one way to use it.


----------



## amagineer (Apr 16, 2011)

robscastle said:


> *Pallet Mower Shed*
> 
> I was able to collect some metal pallets and conventional pallets from a business near by.
> 
> ...


It is so nice to recycle. Nicely done.
-don


----------



## PASs (Dec 1, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Pallet Mower Shed*
> 
> I was able to collect some metal pallets and conventional pallets from a business near by.
> 
> ...


two thumbs up


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Pallet Mower Shed*
> 
> I was able to collect some metal pallets and conventional pallets from a business near by.
> 
> ...


Great recycling Robert! Quite a nice result on the shed. My wife and I have been talking about buying a snow removal machine, but I haven't room for one in the garden shed or my garage. Your idea of a small shed might be just what I need, but haven't thought about. Thanks for the inspiration. Luckily, we haven't had any snow yet.


----------



## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Pallet Mower Shed*
> 
> I was able to collect some metal pallets and conventional pallets from a business near by.
> 
> ...


I love fecycled wood projects, they have a way of looking so much better


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Pallet Mower Shed*
> 
> I was able to collect some metal pallets and conventional pallets from a business near by.
> 
> ...


Awww, a baby garage. Dat's kool


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Pallet Mower Shed*
> 
> I was able to collect some metal pallets and conventional pallets from a business near by.
> 
> ...


Great little project and the fact it was made of pallet wood, automatically gives it a place in my heart.
Way to go.
Happy new year,
Mads


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Pine and Jarrah Boxes Preparing the stock*

I was trying to tidy up again as our house is getting lots of clutter, mainly from me bringing home stray pieces of timber I find.

I thought I had better look very closely at my stash of recycled timbers.

I had heaps so I pulled out about 28 pieces of various lengths and dimensions

I ran them through on the table saw to true them up and then commenced thicknessing them.

I ended up with enough stock to make the boxes.



















I then decided to add panels in the sides from more recycled bits I had.










These I simply split on the table saw and then thicknessed them



















The two boxes I wanted to make were L 600mm H 400mm W 450mm

The idea was to sit in my ute behind the front seats so I could put tools and stuff in there and get them out easily later.

I didn't want a full width box as it would be OK but if I needed to use one of the back seats it was just a matter of removing one box and putting it on the tray.


----------



## moonie (Jun 18, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Pine and Jarrah Boxes Preparing the stock*
> 
> I was trying to tidy up again as our house is getting lots of clutter, mainly from me bringing home stray pieces of timber I find.
> 
> ...


nice wood.


----------



## PASs (Dec 1, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Pine and Jarrah Boxes Preparing the stock*
> 
> I was trying to tidy up again as our house is getting lots of clutter, mainly from me bringing home stray pieces of timber I find.
> 
> ...


Looking forward to the rest of the build.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Pine and Jarrah Boxes making the frames*

After preparing all the materials I then found that I had too many different widths and not enough of the one size, so I resawed the three 88mm width on their own to match the 9x I had at 83mm

Although I was as mean as possible with the thicknesser the final thickness ended up being 16mm so I am on the very minimum work thickness to be able to do panel work.

Joints were the next decision, after all there were only going to be work boxes so I didn't want to spend too much time on fancy joints.
I decided to do a big finger joint for simplicity.
So I divided the sides into three and cut them out.

I could have prepared them in a variety of ways, but chose to use the table saw and plunge cut them.









Then I set about cutting all the frames 


















Now for the critical activity, I set up the shaper and ran some test cuts to see if I could successfully work with the Rail and stile cutters with 16mm material.

I prototyped evry step which gave me concern and this is the test jig I used through the activity.
The initial finger joint is here, along with the screw holes for fixing later, being the three red circles.
The Tee is the rail and stile profile.

Don't be concerned about the four big holes just yet their purpose will be revealed later.









Wow that's cutting it fine there is only just enough material either side.

As you can see the material is at bare min and will be very fragile before glue up, but should work. 









As the test runs were OK and at the bare minimum of material on both the matching Rail and stile profiles.
I then set to and profiled all the frames.


----------



## moonie (Jun 18, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Pine and Jarrah Boxes making the frames*
> 
> After preparing all the materials I then found that I had too many different widths and not enough of the one size, so I resawed the three 88mm width on their own to match the 9x I had at 83mm
> 
> ...


nice work.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Pine and jarrah Boxes Making the panels*

Upon cutting all the profiles and dry assembling everything it was now time to fit the panel inserts.









From the split stock I prepared there was quite a bit of additional work required getting them all to 6mm thickness.

The thicknesser was initially used to get the material to a useable state, it worked well although the timber is very hard. Its previous life as a potato crate certainly seasoned it well, there was absolutely no distortion upon splitting the material.

I changed the cutters upon completion and then wheeled out the drum sander.
Starting at 60 grit I worked down to 120 grit to get a satisfactory surface finish and precise thickness.

One this was done it was simply a matter of cutting the panels to suit the openings,

The end panel inserts were ripped down to 130mm wide and about 345mm long.









The side panel inserts because of the different size intermediate piece were wider and obviously longer.

For those budding detectives if you look at the top right panel there is a hole present, this is the panel shown in the previous initial ripping blog.


----------



## FatherHooligan (Mar 27, 2008)

robscastle said:


> *Pine and jarrah Boxes Making the panels*
> 
> Upon cutting all the profiles and dry assembling everything it was now time to fit the panel inserts.
> 
> ...


Makin' progress…


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Pine and Jarrah Boxes pre assembly fit up*










Once the glue up of the panels had been allowed to dry overnight it was time to lay everything out and ensure every thing fits up OK.

Prior to assembly squareness was checked again and minor sawing to size undertaken.
The finger joints needed a slight tweeking to get everything on a level base line an correct fit up.

Once the final assembly checks were completed a final sanding was undertaken starting with 180 grit and finishing with 320 grit to remove glue residue and some minor splinter imperfections










At this stage there is no base on the boxes only the four sides were assembled.










All appeared A OK for fitment of the base.










The base was a piece of HDF rebated into the bottom of the box.
Then it was off for complete assembly and glue up.


----------



## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Pine and Jarrah Boxes pre assembly fit up*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Looks wonderful


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Pine and Jarrah boxes finishing*

Once the boxes were finally assembled the jig came out again this time the mystery four holes in jig and red circles were used to finish off the assembly.

The four holes are inbuilt carry handles and the red circles a predrill locators for the final screws.
I used countersunk climacoat 32mm screws, one in each finger joint.



















The carry handles were radiused with a round over bit in the trimmer and then a coat of shellac applied.



















OMG its back to cleaning up again !

Enjoy


----------



## PASs (Dec 1, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Pine and Jarrah boxes finishing*
> 
> Once the boxes were finally assembled the jig came out again this time the mystery four holes in jig and red circles were used to finish off the assembly.
> 
> ...


Nice, nice, nice.
Nothing like reclaimed material to bring character to a piece.


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Pine and Jarrah boxes finishing*
> 
> Once the boxes were finally assembled the jig came out again this time the mystery four holes in jig and red circles were used to finish off the assembly.
> 
> ...


Ahhh, I like the wood knuckles/handles. Nice crate.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Pine and Jarrah boxes finishing*
> 
> Once the boxes were finally assembled the jig came out again this time the mystery four holes in jig and red circles were used to finish off the assembly.
> 
> ...


Oh oh somebody worked out where I got the handle pattern from !!
Could be in trouble!!... well spotted Roger!!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*PTLT making the frame*

On Friday I spent most of the day doing joints, that's wooden joints not the plant variety!

I originally started with the intention to build the Classic Japanese style table featured in the Australian Woodsmith Magazine Issue 107.

I wanted to see if I was competent enough to make the joints so I prototyped the Front and End Stretcher in some recycled pine.

Here is a picture of the stretchers and the associated Magazine










The end stretcher is complete1:1 scale, where as the front one is a shotened in the middle version but the apron and tenon are 1:1 scale.

After I completed them I realised I didn't have any tool to do the mortises, so I digressed and tried some alternative joints using my Kreg Pocket hole Jig

It was the construction method from the magazine I used and modified it to suit making the Table legs.

*Materials and Dimensions:*

The timber is the frame of a pallet dimensions were originally about 1665mm x 40mm x 85mm.

I used the three pieces, 2 x for the sides and ends and 1 x for the feet.

The overall size of the frame is 650 mm long x 460 mm wide x 260 mm high.










The ends and sides are fairly straight forward to prepare, I skimmed everything with my table saw and cut the ends at 90 Deg.

The feet as you can see in the pictures are 260 mm long with tapered legs
To obtain the taper, I used a 25 mm forster bit in a drill Press set against one side of the leg then divided the base in half at the end of the leg and drew a line back to the 25 mm hole.










*Assembly:*

The assembly is simply butt jointed with pocket hole screws and glued with Titebond III










A check for squareness then left to dry overnight.



















Stand by for the next part.

*Editing Note:*

I was experiencing computer lock ups last night when originally preparing this blog, and after adding the correct text and photos this morning I noticed 339 reads have occurred, so I must apologise if you re read it and are confused as to the original information, I found it was so frustrating I temporarily gave up on it.

So apologises if you were one of the 339 readers, you are not seeing things or going mad it has been edited!!!


----------



## moonie (Jun 18, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *PTLT making the frame*
> 
> On Friday I spent most of the day doing joints, that's wooden joints not the plant variety!
> 
> ...


nice work.


----------



## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *PTLT making the frame*
> 
> On Friday I spent most of the day doing joints, that's wooden joints not the plant variety!
> 
> ...


You are having too much fun….


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*PTLT finishing and lining the frame*

I sanded the frame and commenced fitting a base and then lining it.

I cut a piece of 6mm MDF for the base and covered it with textile,
Added a retaining strip on the bottom to hold it in place then made four sides from 4mm MDF to complete the lining job.

The lining including the base can be removed and replaced without the use of tools if required to be changed.




























You may notice a small gap on the ends, I didn't pay too much attention to it initially, silly move! as it made making the retaining trim complicated underneath. (The mismatch should have been rectified at the pre assembly stage)









I thought of ripping the ends down to all a seamless fit, but as it was underneath I just opted to just have an off set at each end of the trim.









With that done I then commenced the preparation of the Flip Top Lid.










Some annoying showers called a halt to the work so I will have to continue another day !!


----------



## moonie (Jun 18, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *PTLT finishing and lining the frame*
> 
> I sanded the frame and commenced fitting a base and then lining it.
> 
> ...


nice work.


----------



## DAC (Dec 7, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *PTLT finishing and lining the frame*
> 
> I sanded the frame and commenced fitting a base and then lining it.
> 
> ...


nice little table especially from pallet wood. sounds like you do your work outdorrs.


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## hoosier0311 (Nov 8, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *PTLT finishing and lining the frame*
> 
> I sanded the frame and commenced fitting a base and then lining it.
> 
> ...


I love this kind of stuff, very nice work.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*PTLT constructing the top*

Nice day today, great weather and Mothers Day as well.

Managed to get some woodworking in without drawing the crabs noise wise on Sunday.

The construction of the table top required some lengths of 19mm thick pine to be purchased.

The quality left a lot to be desired and I think 30% ended up as scrap.

Any way I chose to build it using a reverse glue joint, spent quite a bit of time setting up a perfect match up.

*The bit:*










Its a bit suitable for widths from14mm to 40 mm, you obviously need a backing guide if the timber doesn't touch the bearing.

After a few test cuts and adjustment I had a acceptable joint.




























So on with the construction.

To get a stable construction of the lid I decided to do two sections of 19mm timber.
I selected the best looking boards for the top face using reverse glue joints all round.
I then added the bottom sections to provide enough thickness to look acceptable.
These were butt joined and had screws inserted for a good joint,allof which can be removed later.










The base section has a wide board to provide a cut section for the hinges.
All have an overlap between the top and bottom for strength.










If anybody asks why you have so many clamps, well here is an example of why










Opps must have forgotten to take a final picture showing the 16 clamps.

Next was a sand and rounding of the edges, started at 80G then moved on to 120G first up










Then a fill of the annoying holes










That's was enough for today off for a Mothers day coffee with Aurora.


----------



## moonie (Jun 18, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *PTLT constructing the top*
> 
> Nice day today, great weather and Mothers Day as well.
> 
> ...


nice work.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Making tapered legs*

Whilst waiting for glue to dry I decided to make some tapered legs, well 1 tapered leg to be exact.

Step 1.
Select your timber.
I used a piece of pallet base again, cut off the rubbish and skimmed it with the table saw for uniform thickness then cut two identical lengths.

Step 2.
Set the table saw to 45 deg and cut each leg at 45 deg.

Step 3.
If all is OK use some glue on the cuts and its into the miter clamp jig.









Step 4.

Once the glue has set its then time for the ripping to start.
I have a taper jig so I used that to set the cut.




























Step 5.
Examine the finished item





































Its then ready for use in your project. Simple as that!


----------



## PASs (Dec 1, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Making tapered legs*
> 
> Whilst waiting for glue to dry I decided to make some tapered legs, well 1 tapered leg to be exact.
> 
> ...


Nice, favorited…
Is this for the table project or just a tip/trick.?


----------



## moonie (Jun 18, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Making tapered legs*
> 
> Whilst waiting for glue to dry I decided to make some tapered legs, well 1 tapered leg to be exact.
> 
> ...


great job.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Making tapered legs*
> 
> Whilst waiting for glue to dry I decided to make some tapered legs, well 1 tapered leg to be exact.
> 
> ...


Thanks Guys,

It was a fill in job while I was waiting for the Pallet Timber Low Table top glue to dry.

So it was something to keep me thinking, and by default a tip on how to make tapered legs from two pieces of timber.
I think from memory the last set I made were cut from solid timber sections


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*PTLT The finishing coats commences. and some retro work completed*

I did some more work on the Pallet Timber Low Table top.
This work covers using Black Japan as a finish.

While I was at it I also added some filler strips into the base where there was a mismatch between the legs and rails.

It was fairly straightforward measure a piece of timber and rip a length 3.5mm off for the fillers.

Apply some glue fit into place and clamp up



















I should have done this much earlier but I thought it would be OK so left it , however it was causing all sorts of cosmetic problems so in they went.

Black Japan:

As the table had a Japanese style I decided to stain and finish it with Black Japan.

There was an article in the Woodsmith magazine so I thought i woud give it a go.
The product I used was :
*
Feast Watson Stain and varnish* pre mixed.

For the first initial coat I used a brush and then decided to use a roller for the second coat to try and get some uniformity.

As you can see its a very difficult product to apply sucessfully with a brush










The top was no better the first coat was very streaky









This is the underside, the plan is to slit the top equally along the widest section later.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*PTLT fitting hinges to the top*

I wanted to conceal the opening joint as much as possible so I chose a pair of Blum Concealed Hinge Blind corner 95 deg hinges.

First up I split the table top in tha area I wanted the hinges.

Then following the installation template that was supplied I counterbored the round sunken sections and fitted them up.










The instalation was fairly straight forward, however when I went to test the pivot the top would not swing up properly.
It appears, (and there is nothing documented on the packaging) that the hinges are only for material about 19mm in thickness, not twice that as is for my application.

I dismantled everything, cut a small 45 deg slope on each half and tried again.

Still not enough clearance



















So using the table saw set at 15 deg I repeat the process depening the depth of the cut.
That produced a working joint but has given me a massive groove in the table top. Not a look that I wanted !



















I will have to leave it as I was most disapointed with the result and I am considering a complete rework of the top and a possible hinge design change.
Not a good result this far into the project, oh well such is life.

In closing the top now has its second coat of Black Japan although I have sanded it back,

To be continued. !!


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## SalvageCraft (Jun 26, 2011)

robscastle said:


> *PTLT fitting hinges to the top*
> 
> I wanted to conceal the opening joint as much as possible so I chose a pair of Blum Concealed Hinge Blind corner 95 deg hinges.
> 
> ...


Ouch! Not a fun development that far in! I think I would try removing the hinges, ripping the chamfered edges square again and reassembling with some mortised leaf hinges.

Good luck!


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*PTLT I was ready to post as finished !!*

I took photos of the "finished" Pallet Timber Low Table today and was going to post it as a finished project, but after seeing it in the bright sunlight I had second thoughts.

The finish was not as expected, even after four coats sanding in between the finish was less than acceptable.
That was after taking into consideration all the spots I had missed!










The overall finish is poor even after I took just about every measure possible to prevent airborne particles.










The gap on the hinged top is ugly to say the least.
It certainly is not opening to 95 degrees at the moment.
I was reluctant to increase the gap even more without accurate knowledge of how to do so.

I will buy another set of these hinges and replicate the pivot and then incrementally remove material to allow 95 degs of movement in an effort to determine a satisfactory gap.
At present the hinged top stay the way it is for now.
The fixed section of the top is held in place by pocket hole screws fitted from underneath.










The inner section of the lid requires lining as its also ugly in this situation.
The lining is a seude material mounted on 3mm MDF and interference fit installation so it can be removed for maintenance and/or changed later if required










The finish I used was Feast Watsons Varnish and stain Black Japan, prompted from a Woodsmith article in issue 107










The current finish, if you could call it that,










Well I am going to put it away for now and revisit it later, after I conduct some hinge tests first.

Then re visit and repaint for the fifth time if only to see if I can get a nice shine! otherewise its on the footpath!!


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *PTLT I was ready to post as finished !!*
> 
> I took photos of the "finished" Pallet Timber Low Table today and was going to post it as a finished project, but after seeing it in the bright sunlight I had second thoughts.
> 
> ...


Despite your problems with the hinge and paint, it is still a very nice project that came very well. A great design and a useful table with storage. I don't think any of us are ever totally satisfied with our own work. All these little problems to be solved are the building blocks to improving our skill level and are therefore more positive than negative.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*PTLT Hinge rework*

I purchased a second set of Concealed Hinge Blind Corner 95 Degree to do hinge rework on.
Firstly the hinges are only designed for 19mm timber in their present form.
This deduced from a graphic on the template and my prototype evaluation.
However you can use them on timber larger if you wish.

Here is how I used them on 38mm timber










Simply a matter of recessing them










This is only a prototype to enable me to complete my PTLT top with no opening gap when closed

It appears that the hinges should have the mounting plate as the fixed section and the 35 mm hinge section as the pivoting door/top










I think unless somebody else knows otherwise its purely a cosmetic result

Here is the hinge pivoted in both aspects



















I also found the template for the instalation left a lot to be desired, in particular no defined center lines were marked on the template, and info there was misleading.
Hinge drilling the center line for the 35mm hole does not extent to the edge of the template










The 21.5mm line on the mounting plate is not centralised on the 32mm line and the the large arrow at the top near the 5mm hole (B) is 3mm too low.
The second large arrow below the 21.5mm offset line is 5mm too high for the bottom hole!

If you use the 21.5mm off set arrow thinking its the center it miss aligns the 5mm Mounting plate holes










The 21.5mm off set arrow is actually 3mm above the 16mm center line!



















This is where the true centerline is.










A call to the distributor of the product was made and the sales rep I spoke to took it all on board and agreed it could be laid out clearer by extending center lines to the edge of the template in both cases.

He indicated it would be corrected at the next print run. (Stand By)
Meanwhile if you use the hinges draw your own center lines on first before starting work!!

Just goes to show some times its worth the explantion.

Any way back to the PTLT top

Here is the prototype next to the table










And in its open position










We now have the correct 95 degrees opening this time.

*Conclusion:*

Looks like the existing table top will be removed, a new one redesigned from the prototype and refitted and re Varnished and stained…soon.


----------



## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *PTLT Hinge rework*
> 
> I purchased a second set of Concealed Hinge Blind Corner 95 Degree to do hinge rework on.
> Firstly the hinges are only designed for 19mm timber in their present form.
> ...


Moving right along…


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *PTLT Hinge rework*
> 
> I purchased a second set of Concealed Hinge Blind Corner 95 Degree to do hinge rework on.
> Firstly the hinges are only designed for 19mm timber in their present form.
> ...


Great solution. These Euro hinges are great. I have been using them on cabinets for many years, but I haven't thought to use them for an application like you have here. Well done Robert.


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## PASs (Dec 1, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *PTLT Hinge rework*
> 
> I purchased a second set of Concealed Hinge Blind Corner 95 Degree to do hinge rework on.
> Firstly the hinges are only designed for 19mm timber in their present form.
> ...


Thanks for the blog.
I have a bin full of salvaged euro hinges….now I may have another use for them.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*PTLT fixed section and hinge rework*

I decided to get on with the rework on the Pallet Timber Low Table, this weekend so after dismantling everything and cutting off the ugly vee grove at the hinge joints I found I would have to re manufacture the fixed section of the table top due to so much material being removed.

I replicated the fixed section as close as possile to the dimensions of the larger tilt up section.

Here it is about to get the edges profiled.










Due to the material being removed from the edge of original table top section, it meant I had to not only mortice them down to the correct height but re sink the holes in their new locations.

I made a jig to do this recessing as it was now recessed 19mm and I didnt want to screw uo again!










*Jig Description:*
The jig has two parts,

Part 1 of 2 The large section is a morticing template and,
Part 2 of 2 A small reversable insert, designed to insert into the morticing template simply to locate the center of the circle and the reverse position to locate the two screws, due to the work required is below the surface of the timber in the recess.

Pt 1 The morticing component









Pt 2 The drilling Guide
Here it is set up for the ciircle simply align with the pencil line and drill









and for the cross section reversed and re inserted.









Here are both the sections morticed,









All worked well








I soon had them assembled for a test run before commencing the stain and varnish again.









*No more ugly gap*








Might be a bit hard to see with the extereme contrast.

*And opened!*









*Sucess at last !*


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *PTLT fixed section and hinge rework*
> 
> I decided to get on with the rework on the Pallet Timber Low Table, this weekend so after dismantling everything and cutting off the ugly vee grove at the hinge joints I found I would have to re manufacture the fixed section of the table top due to so much material being removed.
> 
> ...


You aced it Robert! Looks great and a creative use of those Euro hinges too.


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## moonie (Jun 18, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *PTLT fixed section and hinge rework*
> 
> I decided to get on with the rework on the Pallet Timber Low Table, this weekend so after dismantling everything and cutting off the ugly vee grove at the hinge joints I found I would have to re manufacture the fixed section of the table top due to so much material being removed.
> 
> ...


now that was cool.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *PTLT fixed section and hinge rework*
> 
> I decided to get on with the rework on the Pallet Timber Low Table, this weekend so after dismantling everything and cutting off the ugly vee grove at the hinge joints I found I would have to re manufacture the fixed section of the table top due to so much material being removed.
> 
> ...


Nice fabrication and use of the noggin.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*The Poor Man's Joint...inhale and remember you are still alive*

Picture this:
Here you are as poor as,

No jointing tools available, 
No morticer.
No Tennoning Jig. 
No pocket hole gear.
No Biscuit jointer.
No finger or dovetail jigs, just a trusy table saw and a few clamps.

You need to make a reasonably large cross section joint and all you have is a collection of recycled timber pallets.

Now back to reality.

Being Sunday and a nice day I was outside tidying up.

I started to think while looking at some of my recycle clutter would it be possible to laminate some of it into bigger size lumber.

So I did I made this table leg



















Laminated together 1×45 degree joint and 1×90 deg joint inherently weak and totally reliant on strong glue.

So thinking some more I tried again, this time overlapping the ajoining joint profiles and sides.

*Activity No 2*

*Lamination 1*










*Lamination 2*










*Finally Lamination 3*










All stacked up and looking something like this as an exploded view.










*Glue up *

I glued them all up and let them set

Glue up Shot 1










Glue up Shot 2










Glue up Shot 3










Once the glue had dryed I sanded the edges and did a bit of [email protected] polishing on it simply to make it a bit more photogenic, and because as well I liked the end grain effect.










Another view










Was the joint accurate? I think it was, however you be the judge.

*External Check *










another view










*Internal check*










I guess you do not even need to make a 45 deg joint but I did it for symmerty.

*Conclusion: *

A strong joint nice looking end grains lots of surface area, accurate results and simple to make.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *The Poor Man's Joint...inhale and remember you are still alive*
> 
> Picture this:
> Here you are as poor as,
> ...


Looks like you got coming & going… The 45* miter joint should NOT have been done…

Just rotating the other Two would result in a very good Half-Lap type of joint… Much stronger than what you did. LOL

Just my 2 cents…


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *The Poor Man's Joint...inhale and remember you are still alive*
> 
> Picture this:
> Here you are as poor as,
> ...


Joe,

Thats a very good point and I agree


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *The Poor Man's Joint...inhale and remember you are still alive*
> 
> Picture this:
> Here you are as poor as,
> ...


My thought too. Experimenting is a wonderful way to learn.


----------



## moonie (Jun 18, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *The Poor Man's Joint...inhale and remember you are still alive*
> 
> Picture this:
> Here you are as poor as,
> ...


hick of ajob.


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *The Poor Man's Joint...inhale and remember you are still alive*
> 
> Picture this:
> Here you are as poor as,
> ...


Thnx Joe. I don't know if I'm comin or goin now. LOL


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## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *The Poor Man's Joint...inhale and remember you are still alive*
> 
> Picture this:
> Here you are as poor as,
> ...


It is the way to learn I agree, end result looks great


----------



## PhilBello (Jan 5, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *The Poor Man's Joint...inhale and remember you are still alive*
> 
> Picture this:
> Here you are as poor as,
> ...


We can all be wise after the event, but it was only with trial and error that people came up with the now established joints, and who says that these are the ultimate joint…keep trialing!


----------



## DAC (Dec 7, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *The Poor Man's Joint...inhale and remember you are still alive*
> 
> Picture this:
> Here you are as poor as,
> ...


45 degree joint looks like it has a greater surface area. that means it can hold more glue thereby making for a stronger joint. at least that is my way of thinking


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*A Gate for No 1 Son*

My Number one son, Adam and his family sold their home over Christmas New Year, and moved into a rental property pending finding a new abode.

They have a family dog so the yard had to be dog proofed.

The owners were OK with us making a gate and closing off under the house so we set to work.










We saw a tile shop and out front was a stack of very good packing timber, they were happy for us to take as much as we wanted so a load went into the ute.



















It looked to be a pine genus of Indian origin, had all the appropriate stamp for bugs and preservation so I set about de nailing it all.

It took about 2 hours to achieve the desired result










We ended up with this stockpile as a result



















I then ripped about five lengths in half with portable hand power saw to make the pallings, leaving the ends intact for later docking.
With a drop saw cut the frame rails and stiles to length half lap jointed it all together and added a diagonal cross brace for the frame.

*Correction:* The correct terminology for the joints I used is a T halvng joint not a Half Lap joint.



















All the pailings were cut to length then mitered on the corners as preparation for fixing.
Then with the assistance of a Paslode nail gun fixed the pailings to the frame, and added a catch to the original location at the bottom.

We then made a matching under floor closure for the opening on the left.

As you can see there was a drain opening right in the walkway so some left overs were cut to plug the opening also.

This was the finished result:-

*The new gate*









*The under floor cover*










*The drain cover*










Tools and Materials

*Tools used*
Drop saw (which is actually a compound sliding miter saw)
Portable power saw
Paslode Nail Gun

Materials

All recycled or reused hardware
Material cost Nil. 
Hardware cost Nil. 
Life expectancy hoped to be at least 12 months.

We kept the original gate for replacement later if the landlord desires

With the fun part now over it was to start hauling furniture and Chattels!!

Enjoy


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *A Gate for No 1 Son*
> 
> My Number one son, Adam and his family sold their home over Christmas New Year, and moved into a rental property pending finding a new abode.
> 
> ...


A COOL rags to riches event!

Very NICE!

... and you had some wood left over for other things!


----------



## BobWemm (Feb 15, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *A Gate for No 1 Son*
> 
> My Number one son, Adam and his family sold their home over Christmas New Year, and moved into a rental property pending finding a new abode.
> 
> ...


Hey Rob, that is a really neat gate.
Great job.

Bob.


----------



## Boxguy (Mar 11, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *A Gate for No 1 Son*
> 
> My Number one son, Adam and his family sold their home over Christmas New Year, and moved into a rental property pending finding a new abode.
> 
> ...


Robert, nice plan and nice design. Is a "drop saw" a chop saw, or something you throw off the roof? I wish your son good luck on the house hunt.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *A Gate for No 1 Son*
> 
> My Number one son, Adam and his family sold their home over Christmas New Year, and moved into a rental property pending finding a new abode.
> 
> ...


Hello there everybody!! and thanks for the comments.

Some fitting reply's required:

Joe, 
yes some timber was left over, we may go back and collect some more as there are some Bonsai Plants to be moved next weekend and we were thinking of making some frames to support them all on, something like a three rail bench to support them then use the usual leg configuration.

Big Al,
I modified the text to correctly describe the saw we used and I would not be hauling it any higher than a bench top as if it was dropped it would do some damage to both the user and the saw.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*1800 x700 Work bench*

I have an ongoing problem with too many wood working Project Creations too much WW materials and not enough room.
There is very little I can do to improve the situation but dump "stuff" or work out a better storage system.
Dumping is not an option as I may as well give away my beloved woodworking activities, so this is what I did.

I had lots of recycled timber so I chose to convert them it into a work bench, thinking I could solve both problems at once so its really a storage bench for the time being.

I used 90mm x 45mm pine pieces as the frame and a recycled laminated desk top for the top surface and recycled melamine coated particle board for the lower shelf.

I built a bench similar to this one some time ago and copied its dimensions but has issues with the center saging. 
Read as overloaded with stuff!.

This posed a problem for me second time around as I did not want 6 legs, meaning I had 4 x on each corner and 2 x in the middle front and back as I saw them as limiting my ability to utilise the 1800mm open length.

I eventually went with 5 x legs one centerally located as a compromise.

This is how I did it










I built a basic frame using the recycled timber I has stashed away, cut up all the respective parts and then joinedthem all together with decking screws and Titebond glue.

I put a cross beam in the middle of the top and used a modified bridle joint to fit leg No 5.

This leg would support the top and prevent sagging no problems but not the bottom shelf so I decided to add a stopped housing jointoff this leg for the bottom shelf support.










The whole center leg is removable as I was concerned as to getting it in the doorway once completed.

Removable meaning there is a single screw holding the bridle joint to the top cross member and screws on the outside of the two horizontal sections supporting the lower shelf supports only, its a interference fit at the stopped joint at the center.

Opps No 1 If you wondered what the work below the stopped housing joint is well its a classic measure twice cut once situation. It looked terrible so I filled it with off cuts.

The End legs were fairly straight forward,










The bottom shelf I made from two sections of melamine Particle board, as these were again recycled I was restricted in the width I wanted, by the time I squared them they wereonly 680mm deep (rats, needed 720mm ideal)

Opps No 2 I cut both pieces together to length on the table saw and cut the recesses for the center leg and the two respective end legs, by measuring from one end only, silly move!










Upon fit up only one fitted perfectly. How could this be I wondered and set about trying to find the error.










After running the tape back and forth I found the culprit, it was the center leg! it was offsest at the bridle joint!

The perils of working with recycled materials.










Now this now was most annoying as I had no more materials to be able to fix it, so I had to now add bits to the rebate gap on the slelving ends.










With this fixed I added the top,

Opps No 3 Now I find one leg was proud about 1mm, Oh no! what else could go wrong! as I had glued the legs on earlier removal was not an option.

So after some severe talking to myself I decided to use my trusty Japanese Pull saw to fix the problem.

The Fix
I sat a section of wood as a datum point and sawed off the offending protrusion !

This got me out of jail quite well Thank god for Pull saws,an easy fix!










With all completed it was time to install the bench…... where is No4 Son when you need him! (Gone Back Home)

Aurora and I got it in no problems and as I fitted the table top in situ the removable leg issue was a non event










Well I still dont have any where near the amount of free space I thought it would create, I simply piled more junk on it. 
So it looks like an ebay sell off of my treasured creations is the order !!

Enjoy!


----------



## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *1800 x700 Work bench*
> 
> I have an ongoing problem with too many wood working Project Creations too much WW materials and not enough room.
> There is very little I can do to improve the situation but dump "stuff" or work out a better storage system.
> ...


You have been busy….


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *1800 x700 Work bench*
> 
> I have an ongoing problem with too many wood working Project Creations too much WW materials and not enough room.
> There is very little I can do to improve the situation but dump "stuff" or work out a better storage system.
> ...


Solutions usually lead to new problems Rob, but you are on the right track with your new and improved bench!


----------



## BobWemm (Feb 15, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *1800 x700 Work bench*
> 
> I have an ongoing problem with too many wood working Project Creations too much WW materials and not enough room.
> There is very little I can do to improve the situation but dump "stuff" or work out a better storage system.
> ...


Neat job Rob,
Space is always a problem. Even a bigger shed wont solve it because you just get more "Stuff" and it will be full again.
Just like mine.

Bob.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*AKs ToolMakers Chest the begining Pt 1*

A friend of mine asked me to make him a tool makers Chest.

He sent me a few photos and in the intrim I accepted the task.

A few months later about Dec 2014 he delivered a bundle of timber for the task.
We spoke about it and I said that I would be able to do nothing with it until 2015, he was OK with that.

A few days later I ran the metal detector over each piece checked everything visually and removed some foreign objects, marked it all up as mag tested and packed it away for the New Year.

The pack was a mixture of all sorts and sizes of what looked to be early Huon or Kauri Pine, quite old and used for school desks and cupboards, tomy knowledge and very hard to get these days.










Along with some common garden variety pine









It had paint and varnish on most of the pieces









I wondered what I had gotten myself in for.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *AKs ToolMakers Chest the begining Pt 1*
> 
> A friend of mine asked me to make him a tool makers Chest.
> 
> ...


It's always good to have a challenge Rob. That is when good things happen (and maybe a few problems arise too). A great growing opportunity.


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *AKs ToolMakers Chest the begining Pt 1*
> 
> A friend of mine asked me to make him a tool makers Chest.
> 
> ...


Looks interesting.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*AKs ToolMakers Chest Thicknessing Pt 2*

Today I busted open the pack, consulted my drawings for the concept, selected some timber of a suitable size for the chest frame and ran the lengths through the thicknesser to clean them up and get some consistant thicknesses

The timber came up a treat, I am not sure now that it is in fact pine, as I have never seen the dark streaks before









The smaller sections most certainly are pine, and again cleaned up OK









I intend to use the long piece for the top and sides the piece with the holes in it for the base, otherwise that piece would be either wasted or repaired or resawn for drawers.

Well its time for a coffee and tomorrow out with the sander.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *AKs ToolMakers Chest Thicknessing Pt 2*
> 
> Today I busted open the pack, consulted my drawings for the concept, selected some timber of a suitable size for the chest frame and ran the lengths through the thicknesser to clean them up and get some consistant thicknesses
> 
> ...


You sure wouldn't find pine that looks like that anywhere around here.


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *AKs ToolMakers Chest Thicknessing Pt 2*
> 
> Today I busted open the pack, consulted my drawings for the concept, selected some timber of a suitable size for the chest frame and ran the lengths through the thicknesser to clean them up and get some consistant thicknesses
> 
> ...


Wow. It is good looking wood.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*AKs ToolMakers Chest Drawer Making Pt 3*

Today saw a full day designing and making the drawers for the toolMakers Chest.

From the offcuts supplied I ripped and thicknessed lots of timber to make the frames for the nine drawers.

3 x full width and 6 x half width.

This was the plan rip stock joint it and thicknesss it rebate the frames for the drawer bases and dovetail joint them all together.



















The plan worked but not completely, it did not work fully for a couple of reasons, firstly I should not have rebated the timber for the drawer bases before doing the joints.










The reason being its almost impossible to preposition each piece exactly in the middle of the Gifkins Dovetail Jig jig and,

Attempting to dovetail timber less than 40mm does not produce a nice looking joint,I think finger joints would be more applicable.

In hindsight I would consider the need for at least three pins or three tails to make a suitable joint, and as a dovetail bit is about 15mm diameter this puts a suitable joint in timber at 35mm +.

My Gifkins dovetail jig is not designed to be used with timber 40 mm width or below.

This is a picture of the rear of the Jig where I had to pack out the area between the locks to enable the clamp to hold correctly.










Looking at the front the clamp arrangment is also a bit dodgy









So I am of the belief that if you are jointing anything smaller than 40 mm that one should not consider Dovetailing as a means of jointing.

Tasks, tomorrow its a rebuild of the six small drawers, for no other reason other than that I was not completely happy with the results and cutting the rebates first up was a fail, as there was too much missalignment at assembly.

Here is all my days work.

The three full width drawers at 40mm height.

They will survive.










And a couple of shots of the six smaller drawers destined for rework.



















Just goes to show after many years of wood working you can always learn something new when making projects if you try to build from concept drawings.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *AKs ToolMakers Chest Drawer Making Pt 3*
> 
> Today saw a full day designing and making the drawers for the toolMakers Chest.
> 
> ...


It certainly looks ok, though I would rather use my scroll saw for dovetails Rob. Stock thickness is not an issue nor are the dovetail sizes, and while it isn't quite as fast as using a dovetail jig it is still pretty quick and easy if the work process is efficient.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *AKs ToolMakers Chest Drawer Making Pt 3*
> 
> Today saw a full day designing and making the drawers for the toolMakers Chest.
> 
> ...


Nice job!

COOL…


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *AKs ToolMakers Chest Drawer Making Pt 3*
> 
> Today saw a full day designing and making the drawers for the toolMakers Chest.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the replies,

After shutting up for the day I spent some time on the net looking to see it there was any workshop practices advising when Dovetails made on a jig have any material width restrictions.

There is no doubt the structural functionality along with cosmetics is improved as the amount of dovetails increases.

I didnt find anything relating to my question so I guess it comes down to experience and commonsense when, and when not to use, a particular type of joint, this going hand in hand with the facilities you have available to reproduce them.

p.s. I didnt realise it at the time but by default I have provided a good example of when to use them by capturing my Gifkins Dovetail Jig Box in the background!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*AKs ToolMakers Chest Tweeking the joints Pt 4*

We left off the Chest yesterday after making the 6×30mm Drawers and me being unhappy with the results.

Well today I revisited the joints and the mess I had made of them. Rather than scrap the lot and do finger joints I opted to attempt a workable repair.

This took quite a lot of self encouragement as I didnt think it was at all achieavable however I was wrong.

How I did it:-
1 I examined all the six drawers and the missmatched sections and marked the sections of material needing removal to effect a level fitup.
2. I used a sacrificial off cut first up to perfect the procedure and to re set the Gifkins jig and recut the piece to fit the missmatched pins at the new setting.
3. Fitted it up and found that I could again remove more material to better correct the missmatch.
4. I did this and produced an acceptable result abeit the joints were now much looser.
5. Then set to work on the individual pieces needing rework.

Here are the inital raw results

The A sides.










The B sides.










The C sides.










and finally the D sides.










I was happy with the preliminary work and continued on finishing all the drawers..










A reasonable raw result was obtained.










So it was off for a lunch break pleased with the results.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *AKs ToolMakers Chest Tweeking the joints Pt 4*
> 
> We left off the Chest yesterday after making the 6×30mm Drawers and me being unhappy with the results.
> 
> ...


Well done Robert. There is a way to tighten up those loose dovetail joints, but easiest if they were left protruding a little. here is a blog about it. It might not work on this project, but good for future reference. I always leave my dovetails a little proud of the surface for just that reason. If you try it on these drawers I suggest that instead of using a ballpeen hammer, it would be best to use a rod with a smaller rounded end that you can strike with your hammer so you don't hit the surrounding sides.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *AKs ToolMakers Chest Tweeking the joints Pt 4*
> 
> We left off the Chest yesterday after making the 6×30mm Drawers and me being unhappy with the results.
> 
> ...


... one step at a time…

Good job!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*AKs ToolMakers Chest Filling Sanding and Routing 9 Drawers *

Well here I am back again with the afternoons progress.

I finished all the drawer bases using available MDF and Plywood 2x were MDF offcuts and 7 x were Plywood offcuts.

I then dry fitted everything together to ensure it was ready to glue.

I set to work glueing everything up using a paint brush to apply the Titebond III.

Once they were glued on went the band clamps and a check for squareness done.
As I didnt have enough band clamps the drawers were done in three secessions which took a lot longer than normal.

Once the glue was dry I then did an initial sand to remove all the rough edges.
Next came the Timber Mate application on all the nicks and exposed rebate holes.
Once that was done and allwas dry everyting went through the drum sander at 80 G to level to top face and the bottoms.

Setting up the shaper I then edge rounded the four inside edges and three outside edges those being B, C and D.

The A face will be used to attach drawer fronts so very little finishing was done there, including not filling of the visible rebate area.

Then 120 grit finish to remove router lines and general tidy up of corners.

The drawers are now finished construction wise for the time being.

The end results are begining to look quite nice.
*
The Rough finished A Side*









*
The Profiled and Sanded B Side. *









*
The Profiled and Sanded C and D Side.*










All the drawers together, looking nice but they are actually the backs of the drawers.










All that is left to do is to now is to add the fronts, which will occur after the Chest frame is completed.

I am pleased with how the smaller drawers in particular turned out today, my initial concerns regarding them being too small to dove tail may have been misfounded, regardless of having to effect some repair procedures mid construction.

*Timber Used :- *
Pine and Maple for the frames
5mm Plywood and 5mm MDF for the bases
I certainly learned a lot in regard to working with dovetails and what actions are required to correct errors.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *AKs ToolMakers Chest Filling Sanding and Routing 9 Drawers *
> 
> Well here I am back again with the afternoons progress.
> 
> ...


COOL drawers!

You are making GOOD progress…

... now, to install them…  LOL


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *AKs ToolMakers Chest Filling Sanding and Routing 9 Drawers *
> 
> Well here I am back again with the afternoons progress.
> 
> ...


I like the rounded corners Rob.


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *AKs ToolMakers Chest Filling Sanding and Routing 9 Drawers *
> 
> Well here I am back again with the afternoons progress.
> 
> ...


Nice drawers for anything.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*AKs ToolMakers Chest Carcass Assembly*

Today saw some good results along with some not so good ones.

Trying to work professional results using amateur skills I guess produces a result some where in between, anyway I had a great day learning how to overcome self inflicted errors.

I had spent some previous hours attempting to determine how to mount the drawers in the chest, there was no "minature slides" around so I gave up on the slide idea.

I chose to use plywood support separators for the drawers mainly to keep the overall height down and set to work cutting stopped dados in the sides to accept them.
The first challenge I discovered was that I did not have a 7mm router bit so I used a 6.3 mm 1/4 " one and a steel rule to enlarge the rebate to fit the 6 to whatever mm plywood I had, every spot I gauged it up gave different results ranging from 6mm to 6.5mm.
This took ages to do, mainly because of the time taken up with setting up, checking correct positions, clamping and then rechecking everything before each cut was ready to go.

Now trying to produce repetitive dados in the frame sides made me lean towards using my shaper, so it was off with the existing fence and use a length of wood and clamps as a guide,

Here is a shot of the setup and the very first cuts, all went really well and I was able to mirror the opposite side OK and used a backer block to prevent tearout.



















Only problem was it was in the incorrect location! ....it was right smack in the middle of where the drawer slide was going to go. So I stopped took out my eraser and removed all the additional lines I had made and now no longer needed.

I continued on adjusting the fence and checking the setup more closely this time (well so I thought) and continued on
It wasnt untill I saw a few dados completed that the stop/start points were all over the place.

OMG how could this be? then I realised when I reset the fence I didnt realign the center point for the stop start index as well.
This really annoyed me as I knew I was going to have to try and recut the dados somehow.










Now attempting to reset my make shift fence correctly and get everything lined up again was in my mind to me almost impossible and would lead to nothing but a wriggly mess. I didnt have enough timber to re do the frame either !

So I made a jig that would stay parallel on the shaper top for a start, I then used the backer I was using to reset the height of the cutter, that was a stroke of luck I tell you as I had changed bits to do round over of the ply!

A more defined center line was added as well!










I set everything up again and set to work expecting the worst however I pulled one out of the hat and got a much better result than I ever expected.










I was so surprised with my ability to align everything by just my eye, it gave me increased confidence and I pressed on making the support bases for the full length drawers and dry asembled everything.










Beavering away I then completed the six half size drawer frames and dry assembled them also,

Things were really looking up!










*The Opps fix:*
I cut a secton of timber from scrap and glued it in the goof area and later sanded it off, could not do much more than that.










*The 7mm Dado:*
How I obtained a 7mm dado with a 6.3mm bit. Possibly not something to recommend to WW learners but it was my "fix" (I cannot believe how much variation ply wood has…its almost rubbish !!)










As the first cut required me to use a back cutting method I chose to use the rule first up and after removal made a normal cut thus removing the run on problem from the backcutting situation.

Well the day is done, I wasted lots of time but eventually obtained some satisfactory results.










Next comes the completion of the top box and the figureing out how the disappearing front door will work.

*Editing Note:* In my original post I used the terminology Rabbet / Rebate, this has since been changed to more accurately refelect the correct treminology of the groove which is a Stopped Dado


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *AKs ToolMakers Chest Carcass Assembly*
> 
> Today saw some good results along with some not so good ones.
> 
> ...


That's some serious storage compartments.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *AKs ToolMakers Chest Carcass Assembly*
> 
> Today saw some good results along with some not so good ones.
> 
> ...


I think your experience here Rob would probably be pretty typical for most of us amateur woodworkers and sometimes for professionals too. The important thing is that you got a good result in the end.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*AKs ToolMakers Chest Making the Front Panel Door*

The design of the front door is when its closed its vertical and upon unlocking and opening it it dissapears horizontally under the bottom drawer.

This is what the original rough out looked like.










It was a bit bland and heavy so I decided to cut it into rails and stile to make a four panel door.

I didnt want a fancy profile and found I had a suitable shaper bit that would do the job

Here is my test prototype.










With a satisfactory fit production went ahead.

First up I did all the internal profiles then the end mating parts.

The long parts were no problem but the shorter internal ones needed securing to a block for accurate profiling.










Here is the dry assembled frame.










Its a bit difficult to see the profile so here is a few other shots.










Here it is dry assembled in its raw form.










All went well and finished the frame without a hitch.

Upon close inspection I found there was a few "whiskers in the joint.










These were easly removed with a careful application of a box cutter knife.










The panels are next and I intend to mill down the featured board to do them so they match the drawer fronts.










I am now off looking for latches, plunger spring locks for the sides and suitable drawer pulls for the drawers.


----------



## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *AKs ToolMakers Chest Making the Front Panel Door*
> 
> The design of the front door is when its closed its vertical and upon unlocking and opening it it dissapears horizontally under the bottom drawer.
> 
> ...


Coming along nicely mate…


----------



## Boxguy (Mar 11, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *AKs ToolMakers Chest Making the Front Panel Door*
> 
> The design of the front door is when its closed its vertical and upon unlocking and opening it it dissapears horizontally under the bottom drawer.
> 
> ...


*Robert*, it is fun following along as you work on this project. Keep boxing and keep posting.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *AKs ToolMakers Chest Making the Front Panel Door*
> 
> The design of the front door is when its closed its vertical and upon unlocking and opening it it dissapears horizontally under the bottom drawer.
> 
> ...


Thanks guys, its fun and challenging to do as well!


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *AKs ToolMakers Chest Making the Front Panel Door*
> 
> The design of the front door is when its closed its vertical and upon unlocking and opening it it dissapears horizontally under the bottom drawer.
> 
> ...


Nice way to do this Rob.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*AKs ToolMakers Chest Door Panel Production and Final Assembly*

The door panels were cut from the unusual featured timber supplied

After selecting a section that I could get grain flow continuity across the panels I set to work profiling them.

The rebate at the back was no real concern however the length of the front profile was

I dont have a lot of small panel bits, in fact I have only one full size one which is scale wise way too big for a panel with the overall size about 320mm x 560mm.
Its designed for front doors or kitchen cupboard doors at least twice the size I am worling with.

So to over come this problem I recessed the router bit on an sacrificial table and set the bearing back 10mm.

The reason for doing this was to reduce both the depth and length of the profile.

Once I was ready to try it out a cut on the test pieces I had.










This is the result, it looked OK fit up wise and cosmetically so off I set to work.










Starting with the end grain then with the grain they machined up without a fault










Dry assembly then conducted and fine detailing of the parts, removal of whiskers and other stragglers along with a initial sanding.










I marked a series of index lines to assist in the final assembly and dismantled everything for glue prep










If you did not know how small it was it could pass for a full size standard Panel Door










A slight imperfection requiring attention. Looks like snipe!!, anyway a visit to the drumsander tomorrow should remove it.










A diagonal check for parallism and the matching index lines then and it was set aside to dry.

Once dry a preliminary sanding was conducted then it was pack up for the day.


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *AKs ToolMakers Chest Door Panel Production and Final Assembly*
> 
> The door panels were cut from the unusual featured timber supplied
> 
> ...


Lotsa gr8 machining there Rob


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *AKs ToolMakers Chest Door Panel Production and Final Assembly*
> 
> The door panels were cut from the unusual featured timber supplied
> 
> ...


The door looks wonderful Robert. I wish we could find waste wood like that here in Norway.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Removing Twist or wind from timber*

Usually the best method to remove twist from a piece of timber is to cut it into smaller lengths, but what if you really needed the length effected to stay the same.

As I had two pieces left over from my Tool Trolley project which were" badly" twisted this got me thinking as to how it could be done.

*Piece 1 Getting examined*
Side 1










Side 2









Side 3









Side 4
(must have lost the picture)

*Piece 2 Getting Examined*
Side 1









Side 2









Side 3









Side 4









So they all have what looks to be very bad twist and not worth persevering with.

I know you could mount it on a sled wedge them up and run it through the thicknesser, but what if the thicknesser was unavailable?

It may be possible to do them on the jointer freehand so I "fiddled" about trying to work out how you could hold them vertically and remain stable away from the fence.

As you usually joint timber with the bow up I worked out that you may be able to support the center section with sacrificial blocks to stablise it as the timber was jointed.

So I set up piece 2, as it appeared to have the lesser twist, in this jig.










Ran it through about for times and examined the results









It seemed to be OK so I removed the jig and jointed the other side and checked it again.










From what I saw it looked like it was going to be an exercise in making wood shavings from the amount of material that had been removed.

Anyway I set up the table saw and continued.









The edge trued up OK so I continued on the side, taking a bare min pass first up, then reset and resawed to 35mm
It worked well so I did both pieces.

Here are the results.









Next was a check on Squareness.

Position 1









Position 2









Position 3









All looked like they were good so as a final check I layed them out together and checked the edge profiles against each other.

Profile Position 1









Profile Position 2









Profile Position 3









Profile Position 4









I then wondered just how much material was removed in the process, so I checked the work with a rough sawn original









*Results*
From the two "discarded" original pieces I found that there was no more than 5mm removed to return the timber to a servicable condition, quite surprising after seeing the winding sticks, so,

*Conclusion:*

Was it worth the effort?

Factors: Time taken about 1 hr, material cost nil material worth effectively nil again, as it was some very soft pine doing the same with a piece of hardwood may possibly take longer and produce more wear and tear.
So consideration to the time taken, material worth and other factors it may be a possible stop gap measure/save but not much else.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *Removing Twist or wind from timber*
> 
> Usually the best method to remove twist from a piece of timber is to cut it into smaller lengths, but what if you really needed the length effected to stay the same.
> 
> ...


You got some good practice in on some cheap wood…
Next time, the wood might make it Worth it… 

You did good!


----------



## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Removing Twist or wind from timber*
> 
> Usually the best method to remove twist from a piece of timber is to cut it into smaller lengths, but what if you really needed the length effected to stay the same.
> 
> ...


Well at least doing this kept you off the streets and out of the bars


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Smiths Industrial Bin raid*

I am repairing more Potato Crates for Smiths Crisps, and while I was working away I spotted a large Industrial bin with some timber poking out.
Upon inspection I found what looked to be a machine shipping crate of some sort, the dimensions were huge and what I considered to be "usefull"

So I made some enquiries as to the possibility of being able to recover it. 
The reply was if I could use it and get it out it was mine, so I set to work attempting to haul it out, but it was way too heavy for me to manage, so I approached the guy who drives the fork moving the Potato Crates for me to repair for possible help.

As I got up to him he smiles at me and says "what do you want? so I told him what I was trying to do and he patiently listened as I explained and then said, 
Yeah I was watching you and wondered how long it would take before you would think to use a fork!

Sure enough with very little effort he had the timber out of the bin and on the Ute for me in no time.

So I brought it home at the end of the day and commenced unloading it.










I just wriggled it along the back of the tray and when it reached its balancing point I just tipped it off.










The large pieces are 80mm x 80mm the boards are about 20mm or thereabouts thichness, the OSB (of which is still very foreign here), is stamped premium grade.

It was a bit damaged by nails and staples on the edges but cut down I am sure it is still useable for something.










It all shows Heat Treating IPPS (see Note Below) stamps and GB as the country of origin.

*Make that ISPM not IPPS*
Info:-
1. What is ISPM 15?
ISPM 15 is the 'International Standards for Phytosanitary Measures Publication No. 15 (2009):
Regulation of Wood Packaging Material in International Trade'.

2. Why was ISPM 15 developed?
ISPM 15 was developed to address the global spread of timber pests by regulating the movement of timber
packaging and dunnage in international trade. 
ISPM 15 describes phytosanitary measures to reduce the risk of introduction and/or spread of quarantine pests associated with solid timber packaging material (includes dunnage).

I spent about 3 hours dismantling everything and de screwing staple and nail removal for it all










The main base is yet to be started as it has heaps of planks and some of the biggest nails in it I have ever seen.










*Recovered additional booty.*
Who ever made the crate did a great engineering task but I managed to reverse engineer it for them.

Check out these screws!










Now its all whats to looks to be like low grade pine (less the OSB) but I should be able to make something out of it later.

Here is a shot of one of the "nails" and some of the small bits attached to the timber that I discarded.


----------



## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Smiths Industrial Bin raid*
> 
> I am repairing more Potato Crates for Smiths Crisps, and while I was working away I spotted a large Industrial bin with some timber poking out.
> Upon inspection I found what looked to be a machine shipping crate of some sort, the dimensions were huge and what I considered to be "usefull"
> ...


You sure have fun!!


----------



## canadianchips (Mar 12, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Smiths Industrial Bin raid*
> 
> I am repairing more Potato Crates for Smiths Crisps, and while I was working away I spotted a large Industrial bin with some timber poking out.
> Upon inspection I found what looked to be a machine shipping crate of some sort, the dimensions were huge and what I considered to be "usefull"
> ...


That is a mighty fine looking pile of lumber you have. The screws are a bonus, easier to take the crate apart PLUS now you have screws for another project.
Good to see people re-purpose something that generally gets thrown in dumpsters.


----------



## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Smiths Industrial Bin raid*
> 
> I am repairing more Potato Crates for Smiths Crisps, and while I was working away I spotted a large Industrial bin with some timber poking out.
> Upon inspection I found what looked to be a machine shipping crate of some sort, the dimensions were huge and what I considered to be "usefull"
> ...


Yes, I agree screws are much easier to be able to take apart. Just be glad they used hex head screws. If they had used phillips heads, half of them would have been stripped out!

At my last job I worked in a manufacturing plant. Any time we had to ship something to another country, it was required we use heat treated pallets. I accidently used a non-heat treated one once and the shipping company sent it back to us. I thought I was going to catch hell, but luckily I wasn't the first one to do this, so we just re-packed the load and sent it back on it's way.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Smiths Industrial Bin raid*
> 
> I am repairing more Potato Crates for Smiths Crisps, and while I was working away I spotted a large Industrial bin with some timber poking out.
> Upon inspection I found what looked to be a machine shipping crate of some sort, the dimensions were huge and what I considered to be "usefull"
> ...


The pallets you get are far better than ours, and this one was a great find for sure Rob. I have tried salvaging some pallets in the past, but it is just too much work for my old body these days. I do think it's great that this material gets a chance at a second life though.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Smiths Industrial Bin raid*
> 
> I am repairing more Potato Crates for Smiths Crisps, and while I was working away I spotted a large Industrial bin with some timber poking out.
> Upon inspection I found what looked to be a machine shipping crate of some sort, the dimensions were huge and what I considered to be "usefull"
> ...


Thanks Guys

I will definately have fun with it, a big experimental Sam Malouf style joint is first up for sure.
Also I added a correction to the text as upon closer examination of the logo for the Heat Treating process I had incorrectly reported it as IPPS which is incorrect and then added some general HT info as interest.

I am also going to read up on OSB to determine what I can use it for


----------



## MagicSawDust (May 27, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Smiths Industrial Bin raid*
> 
> I am repairing more Potato Crates for Smiths Crisps, and while I was working away I spotted a large Industrial bin with some timber poking out.
> Upon inspection I found what looked to be a machine shipping crate of some sort, the dimensions were huge and what I considered to be "usefull"
> ...


That was a great find, enough to make toys for a year or so.


----------



## Boxguy (Mar 11, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Smiths Industrial Bin raid*
> 
> I am repairing more Potato Crates for Smiths Crisps, and while I was working away I spotted a large Industrial bin with some timber poking out.
> Upon inspection I found what looked to be a machine shipping crate of some sort, the dimensions were huge and what I considered to be "usefull"
> ...


*Rob, *be grateful that the crate was not put together with spiral nails. Those are really tough to get out. Looks like good material.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Smiths Crate has attracted quite a bit of attention*

The crate I recovered has been annexed by family friends for various timber tasks

So much for me getting to play with Maloof joints just yet

The following requests have been made:
1. Two appliance benchs for the kitchen 900×600mm from Aurora's friend Edna
2. A second step stool from Aurora, and 
3. and our family friend Michael wanted small low non load bearing wall frame for his holiday house, along with a Duck box for their ducks to sleep and lay in.

I think I will have to do individual blogs on each of the activities due to their varying construction methods, however here is some of the prep work for the appliance tables.










*A PS Note:* After doing some research on Norbord OSB products and checking out other LJs OSB posts I have a new box for my Ute made from the OSB in mind.

The OBS I have appears to be OSB2 suitable for making boxes and crates.
I wonder do any other LJs know how long I could expect the OSB to survive in the back of a Ute?

More interesting "stuff" to follow!


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Smiths Crate has attracted quite a bit of attention*
> 
> The crate I recovered has been annexed by family friends for various timber tasks
> 
> ...


Go Rob!


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *Smiths Crate has attracted quite a bit of attention*
> 
> The crate I recovered has been annexed by family friends for various timber tasks
> 
> ...


*YES!*


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Edna's Kitchen Work Benches Timber Planning and preparation*

Aurora's friend Edna requested two kitchen work benches.

Dimensions required were:
900mm high x 900mm long x 600mm wide.
Also they had to be light enough to moved around by a lady.

So I used some of my current pallet crate stash for all the work










The usual jointing and thicknessing was undertaken to produce some useable timber.










I used a router to cut the 20mm deep mortices to hold the frame sides and ends together
and dry assembled the carcass frame.










The top will be six sections of timber reverse glue jointed together.
So thats the planning preparation and basic design taken care of.


----------



## Handtooler (Jul 24, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Edna's Kitchen Work Benches Timber Planning and preparation*
> 
> Aurora's friend Edna requested two kitchen work benches.
> 
> ...


Mighty fine work so far. I'm quite sure she'll be pleased.


----------



## BobWemm (Feb 15, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Edna's Kitchen Work Benches Timber Planning and preparation*
> 
> Aurora's friend Edna requested two kitchen work benches.
> 
> ...


Cant wait to see the finished project.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Edna's Workbenches Modified design and glue up of the frame*

I thought the overall look was too chunky so I decided to improve on it.

First up I rounded over the legs using a 2" roundover bit, it was smaller then the overall diameter so they ended up with rounded over as opposed to completely round










This was the initial result on the test leg.










Then the eight legs.










As the results looked OK I then rounded over the side and end pieces.










Still room for improvement so I used a cove bit on the legs and bull nosed the side and end pieces that fitted into the mortices.

I was reasonably happy with the leg coving but it was a bit wavy doing it by hand.

Added a 25mm dowel at the base for stability and then satisfied with the results glued them all up.



















This may be of interest

https://www.lumberjocks.com/reviews/6170


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *Edna's Workbenches Modified design and glue up of the frame*
> 
> I thought the overall look was too chunky so I decided to improve on it.
> 
> ...


That really makes a difference!

Amazing what a little Round-Over will do!

Thank you!


----------



## BobWemm (Feb 15, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Edna's Workbenches Modified design and glue up of the frame*
> 
> I thought the overall look was too chunky so I decided to improve on it.
> 
> ...


Looking good Rob.


----------



## canadianchips (Mar 12, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Edna's Workbenches Modified design and glue up of the frame*
> 
> I thought the overall look was too chunky so I decided to improve on it.
> 
> ...


Those extra round over is the difference between carpenter and cabinet/furniture maker.
Going to be nice table when finished.
AND , I am always interested when people use re-cycled material.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*OSB Ute Box*

I had to get moving on this project due to my original box just about expiring.










The OSB is part of the Smiths packing crate I hauled home, I have never worked with this material before so it was all a learning exercise for me as well!

The markings on the OSB indicate Norbord Sterling OSB2 so it should be OK.










The replacement box is slightly bigger due to maximising the OSB sheet dimensions I had.

First up I cut all the sections needed










I may not use the narrow strips but I am not sure yet. These was cut as a direct copy from the original.

I rebated all the pieces and used my corner clamps and an "Occy" strap to hold the frame together and left it overnight for the glue to dry.










I then fitted the base and left it overnight to dry, I did have to resaw it due to forgetting the rebate made the overall size smaller.










I then fitted the inside with quad, and as I had some moulding I had made some time ago which was "just lying about" I decided to use it as well.










The moulding was a series of short lengths so I had to join them in a couple of places.










The narrow strips in the cut list I replaced with thicker material under the box as standoffs. The remainder were for the ends and side trim.










This is as far as I have progressed today.

A closing shot of the frame sitting on the existing box.


----------



## canadianchips (Mar 12, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *OSB Ute Box*
> 
> I had to get moving on this project due to my original box just about expiring.
> 
> ...


2 years ago I worked in a building that made OSB.
ALL the office furniture and counters in front office were made from OSB.
I had never thought much of that material until I saw those desks.
The guy also made a large conference table using same material layered to 2" thickness.
I WISH I WOULD have taken pictures.
Apperently over the years the glues were changed to waterproff resins. The OSB now is much better than 30 years ago.
I really like the stuff you are making from re-cycled material.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *OSB Ute Box*
> 
> I had to get moving on this project due to my original box just about expiring.
> 
> ...


Hello canadianchips.

OSB from my knowledge has only began to be used in Australia from the last 10 maybe years, quite strange since its invention in 1963, Its certainly used extensively in buildings in europe but not so much here, pity.

As I mentioned in my post I have never used/worked with it before, although I had seen it, (and thought it looked like rubbish) I guess time will tell.
The plywood box I was using in my open back ute was from the jointer I bought a couple of years ago. 
When I brought the OSB home I did some extensive research on it, as a learning exercise for information as to its useability.
It has a varied following from, "would never use it" to people like yourself who have had practical experience with it. I decided to use it and see for myself and form an opinion based on its application and time.

Its only a Ute box and I expect it will fall apart in time, much the same as the plywood one, but it was free and education journery in the process and I needed a new one!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Edna's Kitchen Work Benches making the tops*

The tops are six sections of pine planks reverse glue jointed (RGJ) lengthwise and breadboarded ends. Additional lengths of timber were then added to increase the edge thickness.

Here is a couple of shots of the RGJ glue up



















Then it was on to the breadboarded ends and thickness fillers.
Initally I was going to add the fillers later but believe it or not I only had one pair of clamps long enough to do the job.
So it was slow progress today










Once the glue was dry the clamps came off and the tops were test fitted to the bases then cut to size and again dry fitted to the bases and left overnight.



















Next comes the surface sanding and edge profiling.


----------



## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Edna's Kitchen Work Benches making the tops*
> 
> The tops are six sections of pine planks reverse glue jointed (RGJ) lengthwise and breadboarded ends. Additional lengths of timber were then added to increase the edge thickness.
> 
> ...


Coming along very nicely…


----------



## Boxguy (Mar 11, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Edna's Kitchen Work Benches making the tops*
> 
> The tops are six sections of pine planks reverse glue jointed (RGJ) lengthwise and breadboarded ends. Additional lengths of timber were then added to increase the edge thickness.
> 
> ...


Robert, I like the construction technique. You have been on a very busy roll of late. They look like fun projects.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *Edna's Kitchen Work Benches making the tops*
> 
> The tops are six sections of pine planks reverse glue jointed (RGJ) lengthwise and breadboarded ends. Additional lengths of timber were then added to increase the edge thickness.
> 
> ...


Very nice!


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Edna's Kitchen Work Benches making the tops*
> 
> The tops are six sections of pine planks reverse glue jointed (RGJ) lengthwise and breadboarded ends. Additional lengths of timber were then added to increase the edge thickness.
> 
> ...


Al took the words outta me mouth. You have been hard at it.


----------



## DonBroussard (Mar 27, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Edna's Kitchen Work Benches making the tops*
> 
> The tops are six sections of pine planks reverse glue jointed (RGJ) lengthwise and breadboarded ends. Additional lengths of timber were then added to increase the edge thickness.
> 
> ...


Looks good so far. Can you tell me more about "reverse glue jointing"? That's a new term/technique to me.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Edna's Kitchen Benches Surface preparation*

Today saw the tops profiled and sanded, however when I blew all the dust off I found the nail hole filler decided they need to leave as well,

So yet another step required when working with recycled timber is introduced.

I plugged all the nail holes again only this time glued in tooth picks! lets see these little critters get away !










And the second top










While they were drying I turned my attention to the frames,

The tops will be attached to the frames using pocket hole joinery so I preped them first.










They were sanded and checked for missing filler again and then stained.










*Enough for today:* Next will be a second inspection and if all is OK complete the staining and then the final finishing


----------



## moonie (Jun 18, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Edna's Kitchen Benches Surface preparation*
> 
> Today saw the tops profiled and sanded, however when I blew all the dust off I found the nail hole filler decided they need to leave as well,
> 
> ...


nice looking tables.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *Edna's Kitchen Benches Surface preparation*
> 
> Today saw the tops profiled and sanded, however when I blew all the dust off I found the nail hole filler decided they need to leave as well,
> 
> ...


COOL work…


----------



## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Edna's Kitchen Benches Surface preparation*
> 
> Today saw the tops profiled and sanded, however when I blew all the dust off I found the nail hole filler decided they need to leave as well,
> 
> ...


The flutes in those legs REALLY add a nice ouch !


----------



## Boxguy (Mar 11, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Edna's Kitchen Benches Surface preparation*
> 
> Today saw the tops profiled and sanded, however when I blew all the dust off I found the nail hole filler decided they need to leave as well,
> 
> ...


*Rob,* it has been fun following your projects. This one really looks good.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Edna's Kitchen Benches staining and sealing*

Once I had all the glue dry on the plugs in the two bench tops they were sawn off then sanded and stained.
I used an oil based Cedar stain on them which was a Cabots product.



















Its interesting how the different photo positions and light changes changed the overall apperance of how dark they are.










Next it was then it was on with the sealer, again an oil based product, polyurethane thinned to get max penetration of the timber and seal it, I then hung the tops up to try and avoid contaminants dropping on the top face surfaces.



















Well its month end and I am still going on this job, its a good thing I am not in business of trying to make a living from furniture making!!...lotta fun though..and a learning experience.

Next will be the final Poly finish and then give it a few days to harden and they are done!!


----------



## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Edna's Kitchen Benches staining and sealing*
> 
> Once I had all the glue dry on the plugs in the two bench tops they were sawn off then sanded and stained.
> I used an oil based Cedar stain on them which was a Cabots product.
> ...


Looks nice Rob. I'm sure Edna will be thrilled with the outcome.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *Edna's Kitchen Benches staining and sealing*
> 
> Once I had all the glue dry on the plugs in the two bench tops they were sawn off then sanded and stained.
> I used an oil based Cedar stain on them which was a Cabots product.
> ...


Very COOL tables & Finishing!

I like them very much!

Nice rounded edges… makes one feel good by just LOOKING at it!


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Edna's Kitchen Benches staining and sealing*
> 
> Once I had all the glue dry on the plugs in the two bench tops they were sawn off then sanded and stained.
> I used an oil based Cedar stain on them which was a Cabots product.
> ...


Looking good.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Edna's Kitchen Benches staining and sealing*
> 
> Once I had all the glue dry on the plugs in the two bench tops they were sawn off then sanded and stained.
> I used an oil based Cedar stain on them which was a Cabots product.
> ...


Beautiful tables Rob and the finish real made the grain pop.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Flooring becomes a Table top...I hope*

You may have seen the Kiefers KKO Box I made from some flooring offcuts.
Well I collected a couple more tubs of *Blackbutt* offcuts at the next visit.
They were all about 295 mm and smaller in length, and were going to be dumped/burnt.

*So setting to work.*

I resawed the ones which were about 295mm square and then reduced them to an overall length of 270mm each with the view to making a outdoor table top.










The shorter ones less than 270mm became half sections at 135mm for the pattern.

The existing table top you see under the material was made from Craftwood and MDF it was originally a torsion bench design and had a wood finish contact applied over it.

It may have looked OK originally but when it got wet it turned to cardboard held together with the plactic!
Definately not a weather proof design.










Once I had everything layed out I then substituted pieces to attempt to match the grain and colour features.










Here is a close up of what I was attempting to blend out, or in along with any defects, by substituting pieces which match.
This took quite a bit of time "fiddling" and resulted in religating about 30% to the waste bin as rejects.










I collected the table from kerbside rubbish and am thinking maybe it should have stayed there, as I am making progress but it slow and I get splinters every time I touch it.

*The timber:-*

I dont know the exact name but is an Australian Hardwood Gum variety, of which I will ask the common name for and add it to the build information as it progresses.

Ed Note 28 May2016 The timber is *Blackbutt*

*The splinters:-*
The splinters get a mention also, I do know the splinters although small are so painful you need to stop to remove them to continue work undistracted!

It may go back on the kerb when completed! we shall see!


----------



## MLWilson (Jun 28, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Flooring becomes a Table top...I hope*
> 
> You may have seen the Kiefers KKO Box I made from some flooring offcuts.
> Well I collected a couple more tubs of *Blackbutt* offcuts at the next visit.
> ...


May the bluebird of happiness find your table, and fly over, peacefully, without incident.


----------



## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Flooring becomes a Table top...I hope*
> 
> You may have seen the Kiefers KKO Box I made from some flooring offcuts.
> Well I collected a couple more tubs of *Blackbutt* offcuts at the next visit.
> ...


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *Flooring becomes a Table top...I hope*
> 
> You may have seen the Kiefers KKO Box I made from some flooring offcuts.
> Well I collected a couple more tubs of *Blackbutt* offcuts at the next visit.
> ...


Very good Robert!

Well, are you getting paid for the time you're spending on it?
... or is the time spent on this taking you away from a PAYING job?
If both answers are NO, then feel free to spend as much time on it as you so desire… because it's fun to make something out of nothing. LOL

Are you using (or will you be using) tongue & groove joinery on sides & ends to keep it snugly in place?
... if not, what?

Reminds me of when I glued a bunch of Plywood cutoffs together to make larger sheets… shop cabinets, etc.
... was fun to do… sorting to get Like Thicknesses together… playing in putting it together was like working a puzzle…

I think you're doing GREAT getting things all together… Will end up to be a very nice Conversation piece of Table top! COOL!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Flooring becomes a Table top...I hope*
> 
> You may have seen the Kiefers KKO Box I made from some flooring offcuts.
> Well I collected a couple more tubs of *Blackbutt* offcuts at the next visit.
> ...


I was just having a cup of coffee and checking emails, so I thought had best reply:

Mark and JoeinGa

With all the birds I feed in the yard I am sure they will manage to christen it and spread the love, as they do with the chairs washing and autos as a sign of their grattitude.










Joe Lyddon

Its a self amusment activity resulting from roadside junk and scrap the kerb provided the table and my mate building a new home the timber off cuts, which were destinied for burn or dump, a waste of what would have been some expensive timber originally


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Flooring becomes a Table top...I hope*
> 
> You may have seen the Kiefers KKO Box I made from some flooring offcuts.
> Well I collected a couple more tubs of *Blackbutt* offcuts at the next visit.
> ...


I was just having a cup of coffee and checking emails, so I thought had best reply:

Mark and JoeinGa

With all the birds I feed in the yard I am sure they will manage to christen it and spread the love, as they do with the chairs washing and autos as a sign of their grattitude.










Joe Lyddon

Its a self amusment activity (apart from the splinters) resulting from roadside junk and scrap the kerb provided the table and my mate building a new home the timber off cuts, which were destinied for burn or dump, a waste of what would have been some expensive timber originally.
Construction: I will simply glue the T&G together and biscuit joint the top frame sides on and clamp it.
Once that is dry I will edge saw the edges at 90 degs and do the same for th edge frame top.
with a wider section of wood then add a second edge overlaping the T&G boards and edge to provide the thickness.

To provide any additional rididity a center piece will run length ways under the T&G boards glued and screwed in place.
Thats the plan anyway!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Flooring becomes a Table top...I hope*
> 
> You may have seen the Kiefers KKO Box I made from some flooring offcuts.
> Well I collected a couple more tubs of *Blackbutt* offcuts at the next visit.
> ...


Not sure what happened here with the double post, I added the thank you reply at 1207.
Finished my coffee and went to check it for errors before I went back to work.
The reply was definately not there! odd I thought, maybe I didnt completed the Post this Comment. 
So I did it again at 1218 trying to remember exactly what I said. 
Then today I see they are both there, Tried to fix it but I am unable to edit either one. 
Sure enough there are differences in the text but hopefully you will get the gist of my reply.

PS I also noticed original posting errors, the text did not coincide with the pictorial dimensions shown in chalk so I edited the numbers to match.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *Flooring becomes a Table top...I hope*
> 
> You may have seen the Kiefers KKO Box I made from some flooring offcuts.
> Well I collected a couple more tubs of *Blackbutt* offcuts at the next visit.
> ...


*Robert...*

You must be getting OLD…

It seems that THAT type of thing happens to me quite often! LOL

*Bottom Line:* Getting OLD is the PITTS! 
... at the end of this month, I hope to reach the Big 8… That is OLD!

Don't worry about it… there isn't much you can do about it…


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Flooring becomes a Table top...I hope*
> 
> You may have seen the Kiefers KKO Box I made from some flooring offcuts.
> Well I collected a couple more tubs of *Blackbutt* offcuts at the next visit.
> ...


Great to use those cut-offs. I am just wondering how it will go with them out in the weather. Mayber your climate there will not be a problem.

Wow, what beautiful, colorful birds you have there Robert. My wife and I enjoy the birds in our garden and we feed them in winter and early spring, but they are certainly not as interesting as yours.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Flooring Table top Making the Modules*

Once I had all the pieces figured out it was time to glue them up.

I made a jig to clamp them together T&G wise and a side clamp to apply pressure to close up the ends, which are simply just butt joints as I am relying on the T&G to provide a strong Joint.

*The Jig:-*

I used a section of laminated particle board bench top with a block secured a one end with a tongue, and a floaing Groove block at the other end to allow marr free clamping.

I did them in four modules, so they were narrower than the width of my drum sander.

Once the glue was set I scraped all the glue squeese out off the fronts or top sides and commenced sanding face down.

I started at 36 Grit and working up to 80grit










I only used 36 Grit on the bottom or undersides. 









It took a few passes back and forth and all I did was effectively level the surfaces or "thickness" them










I now need to glue them up all together as one table top.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *Flooring Table top Making the Modules*
> 
> Once I had all the pieces figured out it was time to glue them up.
> 
> ...


LOOKS Good!

Well worth the effort… YES!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Flooring Table Top Temporary Work Surface*

I was already to glue up my Modules and realised that not only had I never made anything this big before my existing workbench was way too small for what I wanted to do.
So I had to stop work on the project and make a temporary workbench to support the task.

As the existing pipe frame table was going to be used for the finished product I decided to use it as a temporary work bench.

I removed the rubbish top and went looking for more material.

I found some old kitchen cupboards nearby and brought them home, they were 19mm melamine coated particle board sections, which with some work would do the job..
I sawed them up and made a work surface with them.










The next concern I had was they needed to be dead flat but not necessarly level (meaning no bows in the middle) so using my straight edge I packed them up so the were at least flat.










The opposite side was a bit more technical and I had to add some cardboard shims to achieve the straightness.









I then bogged up all the holes with plastic wood and painted the exposed edges with some black paint in case it got wet.

It will stay outside and I didnt want it to start its typical particleboard expansion trick when wet, before I had finished with it.

Next was to add a fixed section at the end with a tongue profile so I could wedge the modules together from the other end










Just a minor distraction then on with the real job.


----------



## Boxguy (Mar 11, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Flooring Table Top Temporary Work Surface*
> 
> I was already to glue up my Modules and realised that not only had I never made anything this big before my existing workbench was way too small for what I wanted to do.
> So I had to stop work on the project and make a temporary workbench to support the task.
> ...


Robert, the adventure continues. Thanks for taking us along.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Flooring table top glueing the modules together and attaching the frame*

I aligned the four modules on one of the long sides and and used wooden wedges fixed to the worktop to clamp everything together using Titebond III glue.
How I did it, 
I laid paper where the modules join to prevent anything sticking to the mealmine and glued everything on the Tongue and Grooves and fitted them together face down on the workbench.

I didnt take any photos as I was a bit nervous about getting everything square and forgot anout them.
I left the top overnight to allow the glue to dry in the morning I unclamped everything and checked the progress.
everything looks OK so I set about sawing the opposite long side straight.
Once this was done it was time to attach the frame long sides to do this I simply cut about five biscuit slots in the planks and corresponding edge strip.
That would be fairly straight forward and then fit my sash clamps, but when I assembled everything I found my sash clamps were too short.



















Now this caused me a bit of a concern but due to the fact I had not applied any gluejust yet is was just a delay in the proceedings untill I bought some bigger clamps. The ones I needed were about $50 each and I wanted five of them.
Rats what to do, then I had a brainwave and rang my wood work Buddy Wally who is 95 YO and lives a few blocks away.

He dosent do any wood work these days but has a house full of machinery and tools of every description.
As luck would have it he was at home and although it took a bit of explaining as to what they were he said he had some.
By the time I arrived he had two out already, I checked them for length and they were just what I needed and asked if he had another three.
We rummaged around under his house and found another three, he wanted $25 each for them and wouldnt budge on the price so I paid $125 and said thank you bundled them up and set off back home.

Here they are.










I fitted the biscuits and glued everything up and attached Wallys clamps. Good Job!










There was a section that didnt want to cooperate so I had to apply a G Clamp to the area to ensure it stayed level at the top.
Hence the little hammer in the picture!










Everything went well and the alignment felt OK so I left it to set.

So with all my time and power usage and now $125 for clamps the top is getting into the expensive catagory

I now understand the comment we all need more clamps !

More tomorrow


----------



## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Flooring table top glueing the modules together and attaching the frame*
> 
> I aligned the four modules on one of the long sides and and used wooden wedges fixed to the worktop to clamp everything together using Titebond III glue.
> How I did it,
> ...


Dont look at the clamps as adding to the cost of this table. That $125 will be "banked" and used on many future projects, and as time goes on and their usage continues, you'll eventually own them for free !

The table is coming along nicely


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *Flooring table top glueing the modules together and attaching the frame*
> 
> I aligned the four modules on one of the long sides and and used wooden wedges fixed to the worktop to clamp everything together using Titebond III glue.
> How I did it,
> ...


COOL…

BUT BUT BUT… all of those clamps is a ONE-TIME cost… available for many MORE table tops…


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Flooring Table Top unclamped sanded and secondary edge fitted*

I had a good day with the table top all progressed well
I removed the clamps with mixed feelings however all was well.
That was refreshing so I decided to sand the paper off and have a good look at it



















There were a few gaps and holes that I will need to fill other wise I was very happy with the result

The next step was to add the secondary edging, for this I had a piece of oak which was cupped beyond use in its present form so i decided to cut it up.
It also had has a bit of twist around a knot as well but after measuring it up I was able to cut the effected section out and work around it with the remainder.

Here is the raw material I used.










And a shot of the cupping










So it was on to ripping and docking it for the sides and ends.










Then preparing the top for the attachment. Lots of gule and clamps needed.










Believe it or not I again ran out of clamps, so I only got three sections of the edging done.










Overall a good days work which will continue tomorrow to finish the last end edge.


----------



## PhilBello (Jan 5, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Flooring Table Top unclamped sanded and secondary edge fitted*
> 
> I had a good day with the table top all progressed well
> I removed the clamps with mixed feelings however all was well.
> ...


That's starting to look good now Rob, I guess it is going to depend on how well you can seal it, on how long it will last outside, with so many pieces, that will be a challenge!


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *Flooring Table Top unclamped sanded and secondary edge fitted*
> 
> I had a good day with the table top all progressed well
> I removed the clamps with mixed feelings however all was well.
> ...


Looks great!

Good job!


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Flooring Table Top unclamped sanded and secondary edge fitted*
> 
> I had a good day with the table top all progressed well
> I removed the clamps with mixed feelings however all was well.
> ...


Looks very good. Nice work!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Flooring Table top secondary edges finished sanded and sealed*

Once I freed up a few clamps it was simply a matter of adding the end edge,










Screwed in a center strengthening strip and it was done for a while awaiting for the glue to dry.










By afternoon I had it finished construction wise and just edge finishing required so I ran around the sides with a template router bit, filled the various holes then sanded to finish and applied sanding sealer.










Filled a few holes but left the resin vein










The other end










Thats it for blog series as its it now ready for its finishing coat (of which everybody is familiar with) so standby for it to be posted as a project.

P.S. I dont like the look of the sides showing the end grain so I may add trim to hide it, undecided just yet.

Thanks everybody for looking and commenting makes it all worthwile.


----------



## MLWilson (Jun 28, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Flooring Table top secondary edges finished sanded and sealed*
> 
> Once I freed up a few clamps it was simply a matter of adding the end edge,
> 
> ...


I await the finished piece, with bated breath, Rob.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *Flooring Table top secondary edges finished sanded and sealed*
> 
> Once I freed up a few clamps it was simply a matter of adding the end edge,
> 
> ...


A very COOL table / project!


----------



## Boxguy (Mar 11, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Flooring Table top secondary edges finished sanded and sealed*
> 
> Once I freed up a few clamps it was simply a matter of adding the end edge,
> 
> ...


*Rob*, this looks nice. Using recycled material always takes time a patience. This project turned out very well, but needed your skills and innovation. It has been fun to follow the steps as you have made progress. Thanks for taking us along. Hope the table provides years of service.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Flooring Table top secondary edges finished sanded and sealed*
> 
> Once I freed up a few clamps it was simply a matter of adding the end edge,
> 
> ...


Well done Robert.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

* Flooring Table top Finished Sanded and Sealed Not quite !!*

The old commercial saying Wait there is more! comes to mind.

Well I didnt like the look of the TGTT edges showing end grain and the join so I decided to add a finishing edge.

I used Tassie Oak cut into strips mitered and rounded over to do the job.

I started with the end and cut the timber to match the table rather than measure and cut.










This activity took all day glueing sections in, applying clamps, allowing the glue to dry enough to remove the clamps then continue on with the next piece










Eventually I got them done.



















Once these were dry I sanded the glue away and rounded over the edges with a router to remove the brutal sharp corners.










a light sand and its looking a lot better










The light is starting to beat me but here is the final picture










Well I am happier now so I can assure you it is now in fact finished blog wise.

The timber flooring is Blackbutt, a species grown in and suppied from Northern NSW in the New England region

*Blackbutt Eucalyptus pilularis
Description: A large hardwood that grows from Bega in NSW to Maryborough in QLD. The heartwood is a pale yellow brown which commonly has pin hole borer and gum streak. Commonly shows surface checking after drying.
Workability

Tough to work but polishes very well.
Applications: Mostly flooring and F27 structural hardwood. Currently being used much more for a range of furniture applications.
Availability: Very good
Hardness: Janka 9.1 900kg/m3 - Very hard.
Durability: Good for outdoor use*

Information sourced from Monaro Timber 16-20 Kealman Rd Queanbeyan NSW


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> * Flooring Table top Finished Sanded and Sealed Not quite !!*
> 
> The old commercial saying Wait there is more! comes to mind.
> 
> ...


COOL edging… Makes it!

COOL clamps!!

COOL table top!

COOL work!

Thank you!


----------



## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

robscastle said:


> * Flooring Table top Finished Sanded and Sealed Not quite !!*
> 
> The old commercial saying Wait there is more! comes to mind.
> 
> ...


Nice. That final frame made a real difference.

Looks good ROb


----------



## Boxguy (Mar 11, 2012)

robscastle said:


> * Flooring Table top Finished Sanded and Sealed Not quite !!*
> 
> The old commercial saying Wait there is more! comes to mind.
> 
> ...


*Rob*, the edging is a great choice. It frames the other work and gives a finished look. It should also be more comfortable on your arms as you sit at the table. Nice work.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> * Flooring Table top Finished Sanded and Sealed Not quite !!*
> 
> The old commercial saying Wait there is more! comes to mind.
> 
> ...


This came out really beautiful Robert. Super work!


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

robscastle said:


> * Flooring Table top Finished Sanded and Sealed Not quite !!*
> 
> The old commercial saying Wait there is more! comes to mind.
> 
> ...


Those clamps are something special Rob and do a great job in that application….well done!!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Ben Clark Memorial*

If you follow my many exploits with recycled timber you may have seen the Smiths Potato crates I repair and in the process make a variety of items rescued from the rubbish pile.

Well I was approached to make something else this time.
The Fork lift driver who delivered the Potato Crates for me to repair, Ben Clark passed away at age 45.

He had been with Smiths for 20 Years and his mates wanted to make a memorial for him using some of the timber from one of the potato crates.

This was my effort in assisting them










Its an off cut from the damaged boards.










The timber is Jarrah
As you can see its covered in Mud and dirt from the potatoes, however beneath the weathered surface lies some beautiful timber.

So out with the wire brush and metal detector first up, then into the thicknesser to bring it back to its former glory.










I used the bandsaw to cut out the fork lift profile and normal saw for the backing pieces and chamfered the edges.

The engraved plate was supplied by Ben's work mates 
All I did was sand the timber and then using polishing compound and buffing wheel produced the final result










I screwed the pieces together and returned them to Bens mates to set up somewhere within the Smiths Complex.


----------



## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Ben Clark Memorial*
> 
> If you follow my many exploits with recycled timber you may have seen the Smiths Potato crates I repair and in the process make a variety of items rescued from the rubbish pile.
> 
> ...


Nice…


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Ben Clark Memorial*
> 
> If you follow my many exploits with recycled timber you may have seen the Smiths Potato crates I repair and in the process make a variety of items rescued from the rubbish pile.
> 
> ...


Too young…Beautiful memorial sir….


----------



## Handtooler (Jul 24, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Ben Clark Memorial*
> 
> If you follow my many exploits with recycled timber you may have seen the Smiths Potato crates I repair and in the process make a variety of items rescued from the rubbish pile.
> 
> ...


Fantastic craftsmanship! And such an appropriate memorial. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## PhilBello (Jan 5, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Ben Clark Memorial*
> 
> If you follow my many exploits with recycled timber you may have seen the Smiths Potato crates I repair and in the process make a variety of items rescued from the rubbish pile.
> 
> ...


Nice job Rob, you did well to cut that out with a Bandsaw, when I saw it I thought of scrollsaw.


----------



## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Ben Clark Memorial*
> 
> If you follow my many exploits with recycled timber you may have seen the Smiths Potato crates I repair and in the process make a variety of items rescued from the rubbish pile.
> 
> ...


Nice job Rob. I'm sure his mates were very appreciative.


----------



## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Ben Clark Memorial*
> 
> If you follow my many exploits with recycled timber you may have seen the Smiths Potato crates I repair and in the process make a variety of items rescued from the rubbish pile.
> 
> ...


Very nicely done, Rob. I, too, was surprised at the bandsaw work. Impressive! Sorry for your loss. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *Ben Clark Memorial*
> 
> If you follow my many exploits with recycled timber you may have seen the Smiths Potato crates I repair and in the process make a variety of items rescued from the rubbish pile.
> 
> ...


Very nice project from recycled wood!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Ben Clark Memorial*
> 
> If you follow my many exploits with recycled timber you may have seen the Smiths Potato crates I repair and in the process make a variety of items rescued from the rubbish pile.
> 
> ...


OK possibly some Trade Secrets revealed here.

Yes the fork lift was done with a bandsaw, now if you look closely at the middle hood/roof of the Fork Lift near the indentation there is a small piece of timber inserted to fill the entry point of the bandsaw blade as it was used to profile out the drivers area.

Originally The Fork lift was all the same thickness as the rest of the frame. but with carefull disk sanding the edges were radiused down, very carefully I might add!

This effect is possibly most noticable on the fork tyne.

Where the material came from,










Almost unbeievable eh but checking the edges of some of the scrap gives it away a bit.


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Ben Clark Memorial*
> 
> If you follow my many exploits with recycled timber you may have seen the Smiths Potato crates I repair and in the process make a variety of items rescued from the rubbish pile.
> 
> ...


A nice way to honor him. Sorry for your loss


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Ben Clark Memorial*
> 
> If you follow my many exploits with recycled timber you may have seen the Smiths Potato crates I repair and in the process make a variety of items rescued from the rubbish pile.
> 
> ...


An Update.

I received a message with this photo attached, it looks like Ben's mates have mounted the memorial in the lunch gazebo area.










As its a better quality image than the ones I took, I thought I had best add it.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*2100 x 150 x150 Challenge*

I was fortunate enough to obtain a heap of timber beams from under the house of my friend Wally.

It was also fortunate I had No1 and No3 son staying for the weekend and they assisted in loading and unloading the material.

There were ten beams overall, The 2 x grey chamfered ones being Oregon, and the remaining seven being a pine species, either Hoop Pine or Huon Pine, both species getting into the hard to find category and the Huon pine is a timber no longer allowed to be cut down and a licence to mill it is held by only 3 sawmills which leads to the pine being recovered from waterways for the next two generations possibly making it very expensive to buy these days.

Here is the stack the boys did.










Some dimensions checked:










One of the beams is yet to be accurately identified its the runt in the stack.

*Now for the Challenge*

No1 son (who I made the 1500×1500mm table top for) wants a rustic narrow long hall table and was keen to use the timber we had just received.

So today I set to work cutting one up, I chose the 2100 length because it was the lightest and only just managable by me on my own.

I wrestled it onto the table saw and set up some in and out feed rollers to assist me.










I determined I could cut three pieces at 48mm to maximise the timber,

I checked the beam and it had a bow in it on one side, but the remaining sides were surprisingly straight and square, So I worked out I could do two cuts in from each side then invert and repeat without having to joint it first, you would not get away with missing this step with the timber sold these days!

So it was a slow careful feed.

*Ripping :*

The first two cuts:










All went well so I continued on and did two more. The bow is visible in the middle if you look closely!










*Edge trueing:*

I attached my straight edge onto the side of the beam using double sided tape, all the tape did really was to stop it from sliding around, and again I worked it through the saw.










*Thicknessing:*

I didnt take any in progress shots of the thicknessing, but hey, thicknessing is thicknessing, the results are the important aspect so here they are.



















For what it is, just pine is its beautiful timber so its "Challenge Completed".

Now I will just have to wait for assistance with the rest.

*The Table Saw:*

Did the saw like it? well a bit of belt screeching occured at one time of which was possibly my fault I think, as a slight check on the alignment stopped it imediately and all was well again.

Mind you a sharp blade is essential!

I dont think it would be the same story if I was silly enough to do a full depth cut like this with a similar hardwood variety. I could however possibly do incremental cuts if it was really required.

*Closure:*

Similar timber like this (Doulas Fir/Oregon) sells for about $35 to $45 per Lm


----------



## MLWilson (Jun 28, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *2100 x 150 x150 Challenge*
> 
> I was fortunate enough to obtain a heap of timber beams from under the house of my friend Wally.
> 
> ...


Rob, by "Oregon," what, prithee, dost thou mean? Is it Oregon Pine?
Also, did you get a huge pitch build-up on your saw table?


----------



## MLWilson (Jun 28, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *2100 x 150 x150 Challenge*
> 
> I was fortunate enough to obtain a heap of timber beams from under the house of my friend Wally.
> 
> ...


I always forget to click the "wathlist" thing.


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *2100 x 150 x150 Challenge*
> 
> I was fortunate enough to obtain a heap of timber beams from under the house of my friend Wally.
> 
> ...


Very nice score Rob….


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *2100 x 150 x150 Challenge*
> 
> I was fortunate enough to obtain a heap of timber beams from under the house of my friend Wally.
> 
> ...


The timbers and characteristics

First up Oregon or Douglas Fir is a timber which originated in North America and is now grown in plantations in New Zealand and to a limited extent in Australia.

The Oregon you buy these days is no where a nice close grain timber that it used to be, its not weather or bug resistant so is used in building framing above the ground or in metal stirups if outside.

The beams, in particular the one I milled up is possibly Hoop pine mainly for the reason it had no odour when being sawn up.
Unlike its relative slash pine which you almost need a water jet on the blade when milling it because of the resin, there is no resin residue buildup when milling it . Hoop pine is very soft and like Oregon not an outdoor timber due to its charactistics as well. Great for building wooden boats though which is odd !

The botanical or Scientific names are
Hoop pine: Araucaria cunninghamii
Oregon: Pseudotsuga menziesii or Pseudotsuga taxifolia, which is meaningless to me as to whether they are related or not,... they dont sound similar thats for sure!


----------



## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *2100 x 150 x150 Challenge*
> 
> I was fortunate enough to obtain a heap of timber beams from under the house of my friend Wally.
> 
> ...


So if you and your boys took these timbers from under Wally's house…. 
WHAT'S holding up Wally's house NOW??? 
.


----------



## TZH (Oct 20, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *2100 x 150 x150 Challenge*
> 
> I was fortunate enough to obtain a heap of timber beams from under the house of my friend Wally.
> 
> ...


All I can say is you're a HELL of a lot better at thicknessing using a tablesaw than I am.

Incredible find! Incredible workmanship!

TZH


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *2100 x 150 x150 Challenge*
> 
> I was fortunate enough to obtain a heap of timber beams from under the house of my friend Wally.
> 
> ...


Very nice way you cleaned it all up…

I have a few old pieces out in the back yard that I could apply this to… someday…

BTW, Oregon is just one State away from California… Beautiful country up there…
Pine & Douglas Fir, I think are the main types grown up there… of course Redwood a little lower into Calif.

Thank you…


----------



## MLWilson (Jun 28, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *2100 x 150 x150 Challenge*
> 
> I was fortunate enough to obtain a heap of timber beams from under the house of my friend Wally.
> 
> ...





> The timbers and characteristics
> 
> First up Oregon or Douglas Fir is a timber which originated in North America and is now grown in plantations in New Zealand and to a limited extent in Australia.
> 
> ...


So, it's Doug Fir.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Organic Bar Stool from Pine*

Sound familiar?

Well it should its a inspirational project by me from:-

*Michael Makarevich's (CrazyRussianWorkshop) Post Organic Bar Stool from Cherry.*










Michael didnt post too much construction detail and I was curious how it was made, so rather than ask a heap of questions I thought it would be better to find out for myself by experiment.
So I set to work today.

From my pile of recycled wood came five suitable pieces to make the legs and braces










A tidy up with the thicknesser, and on with it.










Then some temporary plates to assist in the assembly were fitted.










I determined the legs should be 750mm and a splay angle of 5 deg should do it.










Now the seat will be about 300 to 340mm sq or thereabouts
So I cut a blank and screwed it on, inverted the frame and aligned the legs and measured the bottom distance cut a piece of MDF to be used as a temporary blank and fitted it, and then from Michaels finished picture tried to determine how I would go about its rough construction.

The internal diagonals shouldnt be too much of a problem so I left them for the time being.
The perimeter diagonals are a different matter, they were too hard just yet so I looked at the horizontal foot rest, it was less tricky so I started on it.

Just about all the perimeter braces will have to have 5 deg tapering bevels on them as well as the foot rest but at least it was at 90 deg.

I fiddled about and figured out how to cut them, got it done and dry fitted it up, then realised I needed to add wings to allow for the curved carving radius later.










I hope this will be a sucessful build, all a bit on the ambitious side but what the hell can only try, no doubt another prototype as its pine, but it should work.

I will post it as a completed project in a coupla days. (yeah right)

Just so you will not be dissapointed there will be no Miss Makita 2016 featured,....unless some hottie looks over the fence as I am working!...( and my wife doesnt see her)

Continues on, more tomorrow До свидания!


----------



## PhilBello (Jan 5, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Organic Bar Stool from Pine*
> 
> Sound familiar?
> 
> ...


Interesting idea Rob, be good to see how you sort out the other braces! :-D


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *Organic Bar Stool from Pine*
> 
> Sound familiar?
> 
> ...


Very interesting…

... looking forward to seeing more on the project…


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Organic Bar Stool Frame work and rough out*

I continued on the Organic Bar Stool this morning.
First up made the seat top, I biscuit jointed some Oregon together and then laminated the two sections.










The dimensions are about 350mm square at this stage










Left it for the glue to set and continued on the stool framework

Starting on the internal braces










I used my biscuit jointer to butt join the braces to the four posts.
I was a bit squeezy getting in there but all went well.










Once I had them all in it was time to rough out the general pattern










The band saw, Jig saw and Osc sander all fired up and worked away all day cutting and finishing the general profiles.

Then a run around with a round over bit and that was enough for today, as I am at a bit of a loss as to how to do the periimeter braces at the moment.




























Reassembled everything and cleaned up and packed up.

Now sadly I have to work tomorrow and Monday so I have blown my project in a cuppla days gloat.


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Organic Bar Stool Frame work and rough out*
> 
> I continued on the Organic Bar Stool this morning.
> First up made the seat top, I biscuit jointed some Oregon together and then laminated the two sections.
> ...


Looks pretty fine…the shaping on the legs is swish…


----------



## MLWilson (Jun 28, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Organic Bar Stool Frame work and rough out*
> 
> I continued on the Organic Bar Stool this morning.
> First up made the seat top, I biscuit jointed some Oregon together and then laminated the two sections.
> ...


I'm liking this, Rob.


----------



## Boxguy (Mar 11, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Organic Bar Stool Frame work and rough out*
> 
> I continued on the Organic Bar Stool this morning.
> First up made the seat top, I biscuit jointed some Oregon together and then laminated the two sections.
> ...


*Robert*, this is a fine looking sculptured piece. I like the look. You have spent a great deal of time grinding away at this. The parts seem to flow together. I am eager to see what happens next. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## PhilBello (Jan 5, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Organic Bar Stool Frame work and rough out*
> 
> I continued on the Organic Bar Stool this morning.
> First up made the seat top, I biscuit jointed some Oregon together and then laminated the two sections.
> ...


Shaping up nicely Rob, that bracing is certainly different, never seen it done like that before, I can see the problem with the perimeter bracing, if you are not careful it will look overloaded… waiting for part three!


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *Organic Bar Stool Frame work and rough out*
> 
> I continued on the Organic Bar Stool this morning.
> First up made the seat top, I biscuit jointed some Oregon together and then laminated the two sections.
> ...


Looking good… I guess you will remove the bracing Top and replace it with the Real top… (?)

Very COOL… I like the free form (non square edges anywhere) method.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Organic Bar Stool cross braces and seat work*

I wanted to keep going with the stool so Sunday saw me making the perimeter cross braces and the seat

I needed three cross braces at an angle of about 30 deg and the foot rest at 90 deg

As I had lots of off cuts from the frame shaping I used them to widen the braces at points of attachment

Trying to workout the correct angles to cut material for a 45 deg angle and incline of 30 deg then a taper for 5 deg for the braces saw me give up, so instead I just kept cuttng and fitting until I got it right.

I even had two saws set up to do it.










No doubt there is possibly a formula around some where but I could not find it!

*The braces *




























I left them to let the glue set and started to profile the seat

*The seat work*





































*Tools:*
For the seat I used a Arbortech Turboplane fitted to an angle grinder.
For the frame I used a Guinevere flexible shaft fitted with a 50mm microplaner.

Both remove timber faster than a Wet Beaver building a dam!

That was enough mess and noise for today so I cleaned up and packed up.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *Organic Bar Stool cross braces and seat work*
> 
> I wanted to keep going with the stool so Sunday saw me making the perimeter cross braces and the seat
> 
> ...


That's coming along VERY WELL… Seat looks COOL and comfortable…

Keep it up…

Thank you!


----------



## PhilBello (Jan 5, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Organic Bar Stool cross braces and seat work*
> 
> I wanted to keep going with the stool so Sunday saw me making the perimeter cross braces and the seat
> 
> ...


That seats coming along nicely, I still haven't worked out how you intend to use the braces, looking forward to the next instalment!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Organic Bar Stool Sanding the fitted Cross Braces*

Progress I made up to today

I fitted all the perimeter braces to the stool, the three diagonal ones went on the two sides and back and the Foot rest went on the front.

The three diagonal ones I bandsawed to shape first, as per the footrest shown previously.

I could only do rough bandsawing but at least it removed most of the bulk material from the curves prior to glue up. done Mon night.

*The glue up:-*

This proved to be quite tricky as clamping was almost impossible, every time I applied a clamp it either fell off or pushed the braces off station, so I bound all the joints with cling wrap, a bit "outa there" woodworking wise but that was the solution I thought of.

After the glue had dried it was out with the microplane rotary power driven file. ( a day later Tue)

I profiled everything down and shaped them into the main structure. This took quite a considerable amount of time, created heaps of wood "snow" and eventually I got to a reasonable rough profile ready to continue to smooth later to remove the divets I caused by me falling asleep on the job.

*The stool looking at the front.*










The seat is only just sitting in place for orientation, I left the bottom temporary plate in place to prevent damage to the feet edges as I rotated the stool around microplaning each side.

Then views from each aspect

*The left side:*










*The Back side or rear view*










*The Right Side*










*And finally*,
A view from the top, with the seat now removed.










all that remains now is to sand the dings out and smooth the overall profile and fit the seat

So possibly this is the last blog before Project Posting (if all goes well) fingers crossed!!


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Organic Bar Stool Sanding the fitted Cross Braces*
> 
> Progress I made up to today
> 
> ...


Now that looks very artistic Rob, something from one of those boutique furniture shops…..


----------



## PhilBello (Jan 5, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Organic Bar Stool Sanding the fitted Cross Braces*
> 
> Progress I made up to today
> 
> ...


That is looking Great Rob, those braces really blend into the stool….Nice job!


----------



## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Organic Bar Stool Sanding the fitted Cross Braces*
> 
> Progress I made up to today
> 
> ...


How have I missed this? Looking good, Rob!


----------



## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Organic Bar Stool Sanding the fitted Cross Braces*
> 
> Progress I made up to today
> 
> ...


That's gonna be a very cool stool, Rob !


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *Organic Bar Stool Sanding the fitted Cross Braces*
> 
> Progress I made up to today
> 
> ...


You are making Fantastic progress!

In looking at all of those braces, it looks more like a Jungle Gym, wondering just "How Did He Do That?" to go through one's mind!  Those are just awesome!! ... Super COOL!

The "microplane rotary power driven file"... Can you shed more light on it? Pics., Links, etc. sounds like a COOL tool!

Keep it up…

Looks like the Top will be the next thing to sculpture and blend / form… ??

You're doing a GREAT job!

Thank you very much!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Organic Bar Stool Sanding the fitted Cross Braces*
> 
> Progress I made up to today
> 
> ...


Joe, ...and any other LJ interested in the methods I used to sculpt the stool I have attached three links for information.

Here are links for the tools I used

A link for the Turboplane

http://www.timberbits.com/arbortech-turbo-plane-en.html

A link for the KAT (King Arthurs Tools Guienevere sysytem)






A link for the microplaner


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Organic Bar Stool Sanding the fitted Cross Braces*
> 
> Progress I made up to today
> 
> ...


The correct link for the micro planer


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *Organic Bar Stool Sanding the fitted Cross Braces*
> 
> Progress I made up to today
> 
> ...


Rob,

Thank you…

That Guinevere Sanding System looks pretty COOL… I don't think I have ever seen it before…


----------



## Boxguy (Mar 11, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Organic Bar Stool Sanding the fitted Cross Braces*
> 
> Progress I made up to today
> 
> ...


*Rob*, what a fun project this has been to watch unfold. I really like the sculptural aspect of this work. It is a study in patience and skill. Thanks for taking us along on this project.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Organic Bar Stool Some mods and seat fittment*

This Bar stool is proving to be a little bit more than a job spanning a "cuppla days".
In fact the work required is quite a learning aspect for me.
Just when you think all the work is done more comes to light.

Like the top leg Mods, I was looking at the original post and noticed the top of the legs had radiuses on all four sides but not the bottom, something I completely misses at the design stage.










*The Leg Modifications:-*

To achieve the required finished curve I needed to add aditional timber to the sides of the legs for shaping later.










This is possibly not the best move as its structural support qualities have got to be almost zero, they are purely cosmetic in my efforts to replicate as closely as possible.

Now trying to hold 45 deg blocks on with clamps failed so this time I used white electrical tape.

Once the glue had dried, it was out with the turbo planer and micro planer.










It took considerable care as I was planing almost cross grain and chip out was occuring very easly.

I eventually got there and progressed to fitting the seat, (which was were I though I was two days ago).

*The Seat fittment*










The tops of the legs and underside of the seat were drilled out and dowels fitted then the seat was glued on.

The milk crate above the seat is ballast, a bag of sand for a weight.










All now are drying yet again, so stand by for possibly another blog in the series,... then hopefully finished and posted as a project.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *Organic Bar Stool Some mods and seat fittment*
> 
> This Bar stool is proving to be a little bit more than a job spanning a "cuppla days".
> In fact the work required is quite a learning aspect for me.
> ...


This is going to be a SUPER COOL stool!

Getting there… little by little…

You are doing a Fantastic job!

Thank you!


----------



## TZH (Oct 20, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Organic Bar Stool Some mods and seat fittment*
> 
> This Bar stool is proving to be a little bit more than a job spanning a "cuppla days".
> In fact the work required is quite a learning aspect for me.
> ...


You're making my head hurt trying to figure out all the angles and what not.

Gonna be a great finished product!

TZH


----------



## PhilBello (Jan 5, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Organic Bar Stool Some mods and seat fittment*
> 
> This Bar stool is proving to be a little bit more than a job spanning a "cuppla days".
> In fact the work required is quite a learning aspect for me.
> ...


I agree with TZH, how you have worked all this out is beyond me, great stool, I think you would have got away without this latest addition. 
I take it that this is the first of a set of four or six, so you will know for the others…lol hahaha!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Organic Bar Stool Some mods and seat fittment*
> 
> This Bar stool is proving to be a little bit more than a job spanning a "cuppla days".
> In fact the work required is quite a learning aspect for me.
> ...


Joe: Thanks for the kind words of encouragement.

TZH: As above and yes the angles were a head scratcher, there must be a formula table out there somewhere but I could not find it! (Maybe Mathias will know)

Phil: I just kept cutting until I got the angle right, its my Low tech solution, I know I should be able to calculate them but gave up the theory as I could not get a objective answer on paper.
The latest edition …yep I considered that option and almost left them off as possibly no one would notice anyway but I was trying for a reasonable Look alike, its close a bit more chunky and "rustic" but it will do for the first attempt.

More sets…? I have documented everything this time anticipating the family will want others down the track.
At his stage I am just going th throw one in the ring and let them fight over it,


----------



## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Organic Bar Stool Some mods and seat fittment*
> 
> This Bar stool is proving to be a little bit more than a job spanning a "cuppla days".
> In fact the work required is quite a learning aspect for me.
> ...


Rob, you may have been able to do without the latest modifications. However, imo, all these little details are gonna add up to one great stool!


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Organic Bar Stool Some mods and seat fittment*
> 
> This Bar stool is proving to be a little bit more than a job spanning a "cuppla days".
> In fact the work required is quite a learning aspect for me.
> ...


WOW, wow and wow…...is that art or furniture; either way it's beautiful….


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Organic Bar Stool Profiling the seat to the frame and staining (end of blog)*

Ok I got busy making wood snow all through the driveway and grass area today.
I used the rotary micro planner and sander to get the final sanding done.

*Profiling*

View From the front:-










View Right side:-










View From the Rear:-










View Left Side:-










*Staining*

view Front left:-










View Rear Left:-










View Right top:-










After I prepared all these I was in two minds as to post them realising they would be of little interest as everyone just loves sanding and staining blogs !! oh well I went to the effort so here they stay.

*Definately the last in the series,* 
Next will be surface finish and then straight to a project post.
Thanks for following, watching, reading and commenting, I had better go back now and respond to you all!


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *Organic Bar Stool Profiling the seat to the frame and staining (end of blog)*
> 
> Ok I got busy making wood snow all through the driveway and grass area today.
> I used the rotary micro planner and sander to get the final sanding done.
> ...


*Beautiful work!*

Getting close… Very close…

Awesome stuff…

Thank you!


----------



## Boxguy (Mar 11, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Organic Bar Stool Profiling the seat to the frame and staining (end of blog)*
> 
> Ok I got busy making wood snow all through the driveway and grass area today.
> I used the rotary micro planner and sander to get the final sanding done.
> ...


*Robert*, I like the look and am looking forward to the post.


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Organic Bar Stool Profiling the seat to the frame and staining (end of blog)*
> 
> Ok I got busy making wood snow all through the driveway and grass area today.
> I used the rotary micro planner and sander to get the final sanding done.
> ...


Smooth, fancy, and super nice. Looks very comfy.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Cable Drum Table preparing the materials.*

I got a message from my wife Aurora she said a friend of hers Edna, wanted a rustic outdoor table for her backyard and asked could I do it for her.

Couldnt really say no so I set to work

The pieces of a huge cable drum I had would be used for the top and I scrounged around and russeled up some more timber suitable for the table frame.



















I set to work jointing everthing then rolled out the thicknesser and strangely enough then thicknessed everything



















The Table top timbers were laid out to verify all was good to go.

I swapped out a few timbers to try and reduce some twist that was present and then biscuit jointed everything together hoping this would help reduce the defect.

Glued them all together










And left them awaiting the glue to set

I then started on the legs.
I wanted something substantial looking so I glued two pieces together to create the effect.










Thats about all the work I can do for now and will continue tomorrow


----------



## Boxguy (Mar 11, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Cable Drum Table preparing the materials.*
> 
> I got a message from my wife Aurora she said a friend of hers Edna, wanted a rustic outdoor table for her backyard and asked could I do it for her.
> 
> ...


Rob, looks like another adventure in wood. I am eager to see what happens next. Thanks for once again taking us along with you.


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Cable Drum Table preparing the materials.*
> 
> I got a message from my wife Aurora she said a friend of hers Edna, wanted a rustic outdoor table for her backyard and asked could I do it for her.
> 
> ...


You can't bet recycled timber…. watching for the end result to follow!!


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *Cable Drum Table preparing the materials.*
> 
> I got a message from my wife Aurora she said a friend of hers Edna, wanted a rustic outdoor table for her backyard and asked could I do it for her.
> 
> ...


... another Masterpiece in progress…

COOL stuff…


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Cable Drum Table Making the legs Frame and preparing the Top*

I was up and away early this morning as I wanted to see how bad the twist in the table top was going to be.

So I unclamped everything and had a look, its a bit raggedy up on one end and down on the other

Just workable for an outside table but certainly not a feature you would want on the dining room floor.

The legs:
Fairly simple process here cut them square to 750mm length.

The frame:

Again I applied the KISS principle and butt jointed a rectangular frame and then used 100mm decking screws to hold everything together on the frame .

Then I used 75mm decking screws for attaching each leg to the frame.

Sat the table top on top of it all and had another look at the twist defect.










I wasnt 100% happy with it but pressed on and profiled the ends for a final decision then to continue.

I made a jig to curve the ends using a router and template following bit.










Next was the task of plugging the six bolt holes, to do this I cut plugs from the off cuts to match the grain as closely as possible.










Another reasonably simple task select some timber cut a plug with the hole saw, minus the pilot bit, then apply glue orient them and pound them in










I cannot do much about the iron stain it will have to be a "feature".

I did another check on the twist in the top and although it was still present I decided the top would turn out OK in its designed role.

So I attached it to the frame using pocket hole fixing.










So now on with the sanding and general tiidy up of the top, all very boring and non exciting task so we will skip over it apart from reporting I used 80 grit to start then finished with 120 grit

Here it is sanded and all the nail holes filled at this stage.










After the filler dried and I sanded it again I used Sikkens to stain everything.










Leave it to dry overnight now










And thats a wrap for today.


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Cable Drum Table Making the legs Frame and preparing the Top*
> 
> I was up and away early this morning as I wanted to see how bad the twist in the table top was going to be.
> 
> ...


My goodness me Rob, You sure work fast getting the table done; and YES it looks great as well as sturdy…


----------



## MLWilson (Jun 28, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Cable Drum Table Making the legs Frame and preparing the Top*
> 
> I was up and away early this morning as I wanted to see how bad the twist in the table top was going to be.
> 
> ...


It looks nice, Rob. Very nice.
But, I have this to say about 
"I cannot do much about the iron stain it will have to be a 'feature'." 
Nay, nay, good sir. Oxalic Acid will take the iron stains out. Mebbees, even vinegar.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Cable Drum Table Making the legs Frame and preparing the Top*
> 
> I was up and away early this morning as I wanted to see how bad the twist in the table top was going to be.
> 
> ...


Thanks Mark thats one for the Handy hints notebook, in the mean time I am going to do some test runs on some of the off cuts


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Cable Drum Table Making the legs Frame and preparing the Top*
> 
> I was up and away early this morning as I wanted to see how bad the twist in the table top was going to be.
> 
> ...


id just call it character rob,no worries.


----------



## JCamp (Nov 22, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *Cable Drum Table Making the legs Frame and preparing the Top*
> 
> I was up and away early this morning as I wanted to see how bad the twist in the table top was going to be.
> 
> ...


Looks great.


----------



## Boxguy (Mar 11, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Cable Drum Table Making the legs Frame and preparing the Top*
> 
> I was up and away early this morning as I wanted to see how bad the twist in the table top was going to be.
> 
> ...


*Rob*, the curved ends and the thick top give this a nice look. The routed rim takes the rough look away and makes it into a nice piece of furniture. You have a great eye for style. Will the legs have enough strength with no angle braces?


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *Cable Drum Table Making the legs Frame and preparing the Top*
> 
> I was up and away early this morning as I wanted to see how bad the twist in the table top was going to be.
> 
> ...


Very COOL…


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*MC Fish Tank Stand the begining Pt 1*

One of my family friends asked if I could make them a stand for their fish tank.
Considering my son and I had made one just recently I agreed.

They supplied a picture of what was needed and some dimensions.










Basicly the structure has a cupboard in the center and two open shelves on the ends.
Height 800mm width about 1450 for a top 1500 mm x 500mm.

The tank holds 375 L so its effectively the same in mass or Kgs.

So I checked out what timber I had and there was enough recycled timber to do the job.

A special request was that the door and finish matched the same profile as the other pieces of furniture in the room.

So a sample door was supplied showing the profile and finish required.










Couldnt be too hard so I set to work.
1. First up I examined the door it was a bit more complicated than I thought and by the looks it was made by moulding timber with a Shop Fox or Williams and Hussey both of which I cannot get here in Australia. Boo Hiss!

So I figured out an alternative.

I could used a couple of router bits in my router to produce the same result.

*A bull nose bit.*

This matched the required profile but the bearing limited the ability to do it all in one piece due to the depth










*A Raised Panel bit.*

This matched the profile perfectly but again another piece of timber required










A few extra steps involved and I should have it.

This is what the profile looked like dimensional wise.










The profiles and depth prohibited me from doing it wirh one piece of timber so I was committed to having the make the frame and then add the two individual pieces to it.

The timber for the door and structure I already had mainly the remanents of the wooden cable drum I made a table from.

So the Jointing and thicknessing commenced










That wraps up work for today.


----------



## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *MC Fish Tank Stand the begining Pt 1*
> 
> One of my family friends asked if I could make them a stand for their fish tank.
> Considering my son and I had made one just recently I agreed.
> ...


Good progress so far….


----------



## Boxguy (Mar 11, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *MC Fish Tank Stand the begining Pt 1*
> 
> One of my family friends asked if I could make them a stand for their fish tank.
> Considering my son and I had made one just recently I agreed.
> ...


Rob, this is an ambitious undertaking. Thanks for taking us along.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *MC Fish Tank Stand the begining Pt 1*
> 
> One of my family friends asked if I could make them a stand for their fish tank.
> Considering my son and I had made one just recently I agreed.
> ...


Hi Rob,

Looks like a nice Fish tank stand… except for one thing…
In this picture, there is NOT uniform support for the very HEAVY fish tank…
The main support is in the middle with the tank OVERHANGING it.
Promoting cabinet sagging at each end of the tank eventually causing many problems with the tank & probable leaking across the bottom.

There should be vertical support at each end of the tank as well as in the middle section.

Just my 2 cents….

The construction techniques of the molding using various bits, etc. is very good and COOL!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *MC Fish Tank Stand the begining Pt 1*
> 
> One of my family friends asked if I could make them a stand for their fish tank.
> Considering my son and I had made one just recently I agreed.
> ...


Its Sunday here and raining so no woodwork today, so I was checking the site when I saw your reply Joe.
You have a very valid point with the positioning of the tank and support legs.

(Worth more than 2 cents in my mind!)

I will alert my friend to the issue and see what he considers to rectify the support aspects.
He is actually a structural engineer.
I know we have to put a layer of polysterene under the tank to reduces stresses but that may not be enough.
Four additional legs would be my fix but its not my call yet.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *MC Fish Tank Stand the begining Pt 1*
> 
> One of my family friends asked if I could make them a stand for their fish tank.
> Considering my son and I had made one just recently I agreed.
> ...


nice job rob,you did a great job on recreating the look,as far as structural id say judging the pic you look fine,dont stress out I don't think it will collapse buddy,but hey I'm not an engineer.peace and love my aussie friend.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *MC Fish Tank Stand the begining Pt 1*
> 
> One of my family friends asked if I could make them a stand for their fish tank.
> Considering my son and I had made one just recently I agreed.
> ...





> Its Sunday here and raining so no woodwork today, so I was checking the site when I saw your reply Joe.
> You have a very valid point with the positioning of the tank and support legs.
> 
> (Worth more than 2 cents in my mind!)
> ...


Rob, very good…

Remember, WATER is very heavy!! ... and it's always there and very consistent.

Now, if the Tank went from Left side to Right side, it would be much better… BUT, not as pictured.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*TAG fish tank stand*

I went looking for the fish tank stand my son Toby and I made in Aprill, (acknowledging assistance from his partner Gemma too), and could not find it so I thought I had better do a quick post before other LJs ask where it is. (see conclusion at the bottom as to why)
The actual tank had a access cover and light fitted which he wanted replicated.

He had a stand he wanted to rebuild, it was part MDF which had seen better days due to moisture damage.

The old Stand









The old cover









We reused some timber and fabricated everything else from recycled blockboard and ply.

The new stand









Under braces 









Front doors









I made the front doors and Gemma profiled finished them with a trimmer

The rest was finished by the pair themselves. filling, sanding and tidying up.









Busy Working away together.









The new cover

We ditched the piano hinges for euro hinges so the door would stay up when opened









A test run to ensure it worked as expected is next to the cover










It went home in its raw form for staining and finishing so its was not a completed project hence its absence as a project post


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *TAG fish tank stand*
> 
> I went looking for the fish tank stand my son Toby and I made in Aprill, (acknowledging assistance from his partner Gemma too), and could not find it so I thought I had better do a quick post before other LJs ask where it is. (see conclusion at the bottom as to why)
> The actual tank had a access cover and light fitted which he wanted replicated.
> ...


nice job buddy.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *TAG fish tank stand*
> 
> I went looking for the fish tank stand my son Toby and I made in Aprill, (acknowledging assistance from his partner Gemma too), and could not find it so I thought I had better do a quick post before other LJs ask where it is. (see conclusion at the bottom as to why)
> The actual tank had a access cover and light fitted which he wanted replicated.
> ...


Looks like a COOL Strong Fish tank stand!

Really like the top! COOL!

Very Strong!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *TAG fish tank stand*
> 
> I went looking for the fish tank stand my son Toby and I made in Aprill, (acknowledging assistance from his partner Gemma too), and could not find it so I thought I had better do a quick post before other LJs ask where it is. (see conclusion at the bottom as to why)
> The actual tank had a access cover and light fitted which he wanted replicated.
> ...


Thanks guys, I will have to see if I can get a completed picture to post.


----------



## Boxguy (Mar 11, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *TAG fish tank stand*
> 
> I went looking for the fish tank stand my son Toby and I made in Aprill, (acknowledging assistance from his partner Gemma too), and could not find it so I thought I had better do a quick post before other LJs ask where it is. (see conclusion at the bottom as to why)
> The actual tank had a access cover and light fitted which he wanted replicated.
> ...


*Rob*, looks like it will stand up the the weight and the water. What is "blockboard"?


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *TAG fish tank stand*
> 
> I went looking for the fish tank stand my son Toby and I made in Aprill, (acknowledging assistance from his partner Gemma too), and could not find it so I thought I had better do a quick post before other LJs ask where it is. (see conclusion at the bottom as to why)
> The actual tank had a access cover and light fitted which he wanted replicated.
> ...


Big Al

Block board is small strips of timber glued together and then maybe a veneer applied.










If you look closely at the lid of the cover and then the end grain the lid in the picture looks to be laminated pieces of wood, the offcuts we used had no veneer added.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *TAG fish tank stand*
> 
> I went looking for the fish tank stand my son Toby and I made in Aprill, (acknowledging assistance from his partner Gemma too), and could not find it so I thought I had better do a quick post before other LJs ask where it is. (see conclusion at the bottom as to why)
> The actual tank had a access cover and light fitted which he wanted replicated.
> ...


I found some completed shots so The TAG Fish Tank Stand is now posted as a project.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*MC Fish Tank Stand Leg Work Pt 2*

I prepared all the timber for the legs cut them to length and began to dry assemble everything for checking of dimensions and overall workability.










Because it recycled timber I had to select each piece so any defects and man made holes etc were not visible

The two white scraps are the actual size of the horizontal spacers appearing at the top middle and base for the shelves.
T = top F = Front # =Leg position No Arrow = next leg # then last lext leg No (just in case I cannot count)

I was all ready to continue when I discovered I had a crook leg.










I am not sure how it manage to go undetected as I dont think it could not have possibly warped after cutting










At first I suspected my jointer fence had moved so I checked it out.
Nothing wrong there so I decided to resaw it square.
After resawing it all was OK but it was now about 5mm undersize from the rest.
I considered using it and hiding it in the middle back but decided against it as I thought the dimensioning would cause problems later. So Leg 3 got retired.

I selected another piece










A MRI scan cleared it for use.










Next I checked it for the best faces to joint unfortunately the bow did not allow me to do the face I wanted so continued on with opposites.










All ended up OK but as it was a bit annoying so I moved on to the door.

I prepared the timber biscuited it and glued it up and put it asside to allow the glue to set.










To be continued.


----------



## Boxguy (Mar 11, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *MC Fish Tank Stand Leg Work Pt 2*
> 
> I prepared all the timber for the legs cut them to length and began to dry assemble everything for checking of dimensions and overall workability.
> 
> ...


*Rob,* still moving along i see.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *MC Fish Tank Stand Leg Work Pt 2*
> 
> I prepared all the timber for the legs cut them to length and began to dry assemble everything for checking of dimensions and overall workability.
> 
> ...


you da man rob,i love your style baby.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *MC Fish Tank Stand Leg Work Pt 2*
> 
> I prepared all the timber for the legs cut them to length and began to dry assemble everything for checking of dimensions and overall workability.
> 
> ...


Looking good… sorry you had to lose Leg 3!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*MC Fish tank Stand Door Work Pt 3*

After my crook leg episode I directed my activities to replicating the door for the center cupboard.

I set up the shaper to cut the profiles and did heaps of test runs before being satisfied that I could pass off a reasonable copy.

The trim bits









A lot off bench fiddling about went on until I was happy to go at the assembly










If found to get the best accuracy for both the bullnose and raised panel part I needed to cut the profile on a larger piece of timber and then trim it down.










Note the saw was not running when I took this picture

Then for the backing board I grooved a piece of ply to replicated the lap joints and screwed it on the back

Then I the cut each piece at 45 deg oversize and and then sanded it to a tight fit and then finalised the assembly by glueing the corners and spot glued the trim along the length.










Its a bit rough with a few waves in the raised panel section but should pass off as professional!!


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *MC Fish tank Stand Door Work Pt 3*
> 
> After my crook leg episode I directed my activities to replicating the door for the center cupboard.
> 
> ...


not too shabby buddy id say you were successful in replicating that door.what about the finish are you going to tackle that?finishing is not my strong point,thats why i mostly use oil.nice job.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *MC Fish tank Stand Door Work Pt 3*
> 
> After my crook leg episode I directed my activities to replicating the door for the center cupboard.
> 
> ...


Thanks Pottzy.

The staining will be another challenge, there is a series of offcuts (scrap) left over all destinied to become test victims in the attempt to replicate the stain finish, the final finishong coat I assume is satin by the looks of it.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*MC Fish Tank Stand frame work Pt 4*

I commenced making the frame horizontal sections for the frame.
I needed 380mm ones for the cupboard section and 400mm ones for the open shelf ends
I will use pocket holes to attach the pieces to the legs and then 4 mm Ply to panel in sections and 13 mm ply for the shelves.

First up I needed to make a Jig for my Ozito saw so I could cut everything accurately.
Its just pieces of melamine which will be possibly be just discarded upon completion.










I clamped it on temporarly then drilled fixing holes into it. not overly worried about drilling holes in it as its only a low cost DIY type of saw.










I then just used a couple of clamps to set the required stop position.

Once everything was cut up it was then pocket hole time.
The timber being about 23 mm I will use 2" coarse thread screws.

*The center section cupboard *










I had a clamping jig I used for another project which was just big enough for the middle section so positioned the legs squared everything up in it clamped it and began assembling.










*The end sections*

I then made the two end sections which had ply end fillers so I used the ply to offset the bearers so everything was flush at the sides










The use of spacer jigs was used to set the bottom shelf height and them another set ti do the upper shelf.

Once this was done I glued the panel in place.










This may not have been a real smart move as it may possibly make finish sanding a bit more involved so I only did this the once all other panels were fitted them removed later.

I had to assembly the three modules on the garage floor as they were too big to handle in a bench.










Working away with offset spacers for the front shelf area I completed the framework and then commenced making shelves.










I made two sets of shelves one set for the outside open sections and the second set for the enclosed cupboard.

Six shelves in all were made the two centers both the same and the four ends left and right handed all cut to be drop in and flush.
To make these I constructed two jigs to ensure identical shelves would fit regardless of the position

Jig No 1 for the cupboard was first.










It was just a piece of OSB and I them trimmed it to fit in any location.

The second jig I used a piece of MDF and trimmed it the same to ensure a fit anywhere.

I then cut all the shelves on the table saw and pull saw finished the corners.










All fitted up OK so I then temporarly clamped everything together to check for overall squareness and levels.










there was about 1mm of twist in the frame legs on the floor but nothing by pressing on it would not fix or nothing a top shelf and Tank would not flatten so I left it as is.










I set the dividers and door in place for the owner to inspect prior to then dismantling everything to sand and stain.










For those interested in the screw count here is the answer.










Thats it for a while as I have more important but less interesting "things" to do for a few days.

Oh what happened to the crook leg? well it got sacrificed to make more sections as I found a few rejects in the process which I could not hide.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *MC Fish Tank Stand frame work Pt 4*
> 
> I commenced making the frame horizontal sections for the frame.
> I needed 380mm ones for the cupboard section and 400mm ones for the open shelf ends
> ...


looking good rob,you may need a new screw gun when this is done.looking forward to the finished piece.nice job.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *MC Fish Tank Stand frame work Pt 4*
> 
> I commenced making the frame horizontal sections for the frame.
> I needed 380mm ones for the cupboard section and 400mm ones for the open shelf ends
> ...


Moving right along… very nicely…


----------



## Boxguy (Mar 11, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *MC Fish Tank Stand frame work Pt 4*
> 
> I commenced making the frame horizontal sections for the frame.
> I needed 380mm ones for the cupboard section and 400mm ones for the open shelf ends
> ...


Nice job. Good progress for the day. Thanks for taking us along.


----------



## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

robscastle said:


> *MC Fish Tank Stand frame work Pt 4*
> 
> I commenced making the frame horizontal sections for the frame.
> I needed 380mm ones for the cupboard section and 400mm ones for the open shelf ends
> ...


Looking nice Rob


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*MC Fish tank Stand Shelf trim work and staining Pt 5*

I had the opportunity to continue with the stand today

We did a run to the hardware and bought stain and materials for the stand top and tank access top

I then set to work cutting Quad to trim in all the shelves.
To get these to have the fit I wanted involved using two saws and the disk sander for each part.










A most fiddly and time comsuming task I must say, however I worked through the 6 shelves and the task was eventually finished.

Almost all day consumed with the trim, there has got to be a better way?










After a good clean up It was time to apply the Jarrah stain.
With so much detail, nooks and crannies I decided to spray apply the stain.

Here is the door with its first coat.










By the time I finished the sun was beating me in packing up I took some more pictures but the light was not giving good picture results, as you can see.

Here is the back










and another shot










Packed up,.... will get it all out tomorrow and do a comparasion with the sample door and decide if a second coat of stain is required to get the stain darker.

More to follow soon.

*Better quality photos added.*

The Back










The front










The rear Right side










The comparasion check for stain compatability










The customer was happy with the one application of stain so its now on with fitting the hinges handle and finishing coat, none of which I will bore everybody with so thats the end of the bog as such, next will be possibly a Project picture of the completed Stand.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *MC Fish tank Stand Shelf trim work and staining Pt 5*
> 
> I had the opportunity to continue with the stand today
> 
> ...


An interesting find:-

All the current LJ projects have appeared here, it must be connected eh!!


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *MC Fish tank Stand Shelf trim work and staining Pt 5*
> 
> I had the opportunity to continue with the stand today
> 
> ...


The recycled timber stand has turned out really good Rob….
Love the colour of the door!!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Treasure hunting in timber*

I have a huge piece of Cypress Pine about 3m x 195mm x 50mm painted white and removed fron a construction somewhere.
I wanted to remove the paint with my thicknesser so in making this possible I had to go treasure hunting with my metal detector.

I found quite a few pieces of buried treasure and marked the area with the traditional X.
Next I needed to flap disk the area to identify the exact position.
Once the treasure was uncovered it was time to dig.

I used my battery drill and a small plug cutter to excavate around the find.
Next was to identify if they were Nails or screws so I could determine how to remove them.

Once they were identified the removal process went ahead.

What I found was about 8 x Gal nails and 4 x small panel type pins

The timber suffered some extensive scarring as a result of which the plug cutters bigger brother will be used in its primary role to repair the damage later.

OK some sequence of events in pictures.

*One of the treasure sites after scanning and uncovering with a flap disk.*









*
Next was some excavating around the offender.*










*A check revealed it was a nail, so it was extracted with special pliers.*









*
A close up of the business end of the pliers.*










*Definately not something that should pass through a thicknesser*










*Working away I recovered 10 x items of treasure*










The small pins my not cause any damage to the blades but I was not taking the risk.
The booty all got dug up.

Next was a run through the thicknesser to clean off the paint.









*
A close up of the resultant scaring. The darker holes are existing bolt holes.*










*Tools used:-*

1 x Metal detector and marking pen
1 x Angle grinder fitted with a flap disk
1 x Pair of screw removing plyers
1 x Small plug Cutter and Battery drill.

*Conclusion:*

A time consuming task and consideration to the actual value of the timber should be undertaken before hand.
The process does considerable damage requiring later repair work with wood plugs or similar otherwise complete removal or working around the damaged areas.


----------



## PhilBello (Jan 5, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Treasure hunting in timber*
> 
> I have a huge piece of Cypress Pine about 3m x 195mm x 50mm painted white and removed fron a construction somewhere.
> I wanted to remove the paint with my thicknesser so in making this possible I had to go treasure hunting with my metal detector.
> ...


Well worth taking the time the time to remove the metalwork, and you've ended up with a nice bit of timber, if it had been me, I would have also burnt most of the paint off as well, as that can do as much damage to the knives as metal.


----------



## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Treasure hunting in timber*
> 
> I have a huge piece of Cypress Pine about 3m x 195mm x 50mm painted white and removed fron a construction somewhere.
> I wanted to remove the paint with my thicknesser so in making this possible I had to go treasure hunting with my metal detector.
> ...


All those holes …looks like future sites for bowties and butterflies! 
PhilBello, what is your process of burning paint?


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *Treasure hunting in timber*
> 
> I have a huge piece of Cypress Pine about 3m x 195mm x 50mm painted white and removed fron a construction somewhere.
> I wanted to remove the paint with my thicknesser so in making this possible I had to go treasure hunting with my metal detector.
> ...


*Robert!*

Thank you for your short course & experience in your latest Find & action!

Great Find!

Great work!

Thaank you!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Treasure hunting in timber*
> 
> I have a huge piece of Cypress Pine about 3m x 195mm x 50mm painted white and removed fron a construction somewhere.
> I wanted to remove the paint with my thicknesser so in making this possible I had to go treasure hunting with my metal detector.
> ...


*Phil*
Correct paint and the additives in paint are brutal on fine edges.

*Candy*
You have sewn the seed of thought for more attractive inserts

*Joe*
Glad you found it of some use


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Treasure hunting in timber*
> 
> I have a huge piece of Cypress Pine about 3m x 195mm x 50mm painted white and removed fron a construction somewhere.
> I wanted to remove the paint with my thicknesser so in making this possible I had to go treasure hunting with my metal detector.
> ...


I very much like the idea of the using the small plug cutter to recess around the offending nail or screw to allow for the pliers room to grab it and remove it - *TOP TIP Rob,* thank you…


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*AKs ToolMakers Chest Widening the overall frame*

Its been 2 years since I did any work on this toolmakers chest for a friend, it ran aground due to me not having enough skills to built it so it would actually work.

The problem I introduced was the lack of space at the front when the drawer fronts and handles were fitted, the front door would not fit.

We discussed the problem and looked at getting recessed handles and all that sort of variations to overcome the problem.

One line of thought was to add material at the back and move everything reawards, only problem was that it would leave heaps of routed areas exposed at the sides right at the face.

Well nothing really happened until this weekend I saw the unfinished project sitting amoung the various items I make and just stash away.

So I decided it was time to stop avoiding the issue and extend the frame re do the dovetails and generally "get onto it"

First up I milled up some more Kauri pine the do the job.
Then biscuit jointed them all on, only this time I decided to go with adding the extensions to the front.
This made the depth of the Chest 325mm.










Here is the base and part of one side










Here is a full shot of the side.










Once they were dry I sanded off the overlap and set up my Gifkins Dovetail Jig and cut the additional dovetails and pins.

Fitted everything up dry assembled and cut the front door to suit.
Dismantled the assembly and routed runners for the front door glued in one side of the dovetails and reassembled it all again










How noticable is the add in.
LH side









RH Side










Happy with the progress I decided to stop for a while and continue another day.










How did I manage to re route the dovetails with the Gifkins Jig with the timber now at 325mm?
Have a look at my tool tip if you own a Gifkins dovetail Jig, it is possible.


----------



## Boxguy (Mar 11, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *AKs ToolMakers Chest Widening the overall frame*
> 
> Its been 2 years since I did any work on this toolmakers chest for a friend, it ran aground due to me not having enough skills to built it so it would actually work.
> 
> ...


Wow, Rob, this looks to be some fine craftsmanship. Hope it continues t go well. Lots of problems to solve when you are extending the capacity of a tool. Keep tool boxing and keep posting.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *AKs ToolMakers Chest Widening the overall frame*
> 
> Its been 2 years since I did any work on this toolmakers chest for a friend, it ran aground due to me not having enough skills to built it so it would actually work.
> 
> ...


That is really a COOL tool chest!

Looks like your DT's came out OK… Are the tails pointing downward to give the BOTTOM more strength to stay on the Sides?


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *AKs ToolMakers Chest Widening the overall frame*
> 
> Its been 2 years since I did any work on this toolmakers chest for a friend, it ran aground due to me not having enough skills to built it so it would actually work.
> 
> ...


Hello Joe,

When I set about laying out the frame I wondered aboout the orientation of the dovetails along with other design aspects of the Chest.

I decided on the design that way to be able to dismantle the frame as I went. So there was no other consideration about orientation so to answer your question I would have to say no the strength is in the sides, hence the bottom could "fall off".

What are yor thoughts?


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *AKs ToolMakers Chest Widening the overall frame*
> 
> Its been 2 years since I did any work on this toolmakers chest for a friend, it ran aground due to me not having enough skills to built it so it would actually work.
> 
> ...


Very nicely done Rob….


----------



## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *AKs ToolMakers Chest Widening the overall frame*
> 
> Its been 2 years since I did any work on this toolmakers chest for a friend, it ran aground due to me not having enough skills to built it so it would actually work.
> 
> ...


That looks great, Rob! The add-ons blend very well. As there is no actual weight on the bottom (right?) I'd say you chose wisely in the orientation of the dovetails. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *AKs ToolMakers Chest Widening the overall frame*
> 
> Its been 2 years since I did any work on this toolmakers chest for a friend, it ran aground due to me not having enough skills to built it so it would actually work.
> 
> ...





> Hello Joe,
> 
> When I set about laying out the frame I wondered aboout the orientation of the dovetails along with other design aspects of the Chest.
> 
> ...


Well, Rob, I guess you will just have to make ANOTHER one with the DT's properly oriented to keep the Bottom on!   LOL

... or you could SCREW this one to Help it… 

It's still a beautiful Chest!


----------



## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

robscastle said:


> *AKs ToolMakers Chest Widening the overall frame*
> 
> Its been 2 years since I did any work on this toolmakers chest for a friend, it ran aground due to me not having enough skills to built it so it would actually work.
> 
> ...


Glad to see you came up with a fix to the problem Robert.

When ever I am stumped on a project, I find if I put it aside and walk away from it, over time of thought, I've been able to come up with a solution to the fix.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *AKs ToolMakers Chest Widening the overall frame*
> 
> Its been 2 years since I did any work on this toolmakers chest for a friend, it ran aground due to me not having enough skills to built it so it would actually work.
> 
> ...


Blackie, Thats what we effectively did, we couldnt find suitable handles, for it fiddled about looking at recessed ring type but all were too small for the finished drawers so it got "shelved" for future thought. It was the topic of discussion a few months ago we got it out "looked at it" and put it back again!

Just goes to show you can get too close to a problem and lose your creative thought process.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*AKs ToolMakers Chest drawer fronts and start of the top case compartment*

I left off working on the front extension in August, the extension of the front is to accomodate the drawer handles.
So its now October and I am motivated to get this project finished. (started 2015!)

I selected some of the timber with the dark grain effect in it for the drawer fronts.

By cutting the pieces required as a sort of book match I was able to have the grain run continously from the bottom drawer to the top drawer.

I still do not know what the timber is, but it looks nice!










Next I needed a thin kerf blade to cut the three upper half width drawers fronts in half as I wantd to maintain a close fit with everything.
I guess I could have used my bandsaw but instead I opted to fit a thin blade to the table saw and cut them all together with the sled.
Once thet was done I used a small round over bit to profile edge them all.

I then commenced attaching them

How I did this was: 
Simply applied glue to the jointing surfaces and fitted the front, waited until the glue would hold the front under its own weight, then fitted window spacers to maintain the gap and then clamped it up in the open position.

I must have lost the picture

It was very fiddly and took almost all day to ensure everything fitted OK
The final result. (Dreadful picture I will see if I have another, looks like an elephant sat on the end!!)










another view










Put a couple of screws in the back in case it fell off!










All that remains now is to determine what sort of handles I want to use, then fit them along with all the other hardware locks hinges etc, finish the top compartment and decide on a surface finish then but as of now ts practically finished.


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *AKs ToolMakers Chest drawer fronts and start of the top case compartment*
> 
> I left off working on the front extension in August, the extension of the front is to accomodate the drawer handles.
> So its now October and I am motivated to get this project finished. (started 2015!)
> ...


Rob, You are a way better woodworker than I sir…beautiful!!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *AKs ToolMakers Chest drawer fronts and start of the top case compartment*
> 
> I left off working on the front extension in August, the extension of the front is to accomodate the drawer handles.
> So its now October and I am motivated to get this project finished. (started 2015!)
> ...





> Put a couple of screws in the back in case it fell off!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


*rc*, looks like even your screws have screws…. at lest you can't be accused of having a loose screw.


> I must have lost the picture
> 
> - robscastle


Look under your bags off screws.


----------



## Boxguy (Mar 11, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *AKs ToolMakers Chest drawer fronts and start of the top case compartment*
> 
> I left off working on the front extension in August, the extension of the front is to accomodate the drawer handles.
> So its now October and I am motivated to get this project finished. (started 2015!)
> ...


Rob, this is coming along nicely. I like the look.


----------



## Handtooler (Jul 24, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *AKs ToolMakers Chest drawer fronts and start of the top case compartment*
> 
> I left off working on the front extension in August, the extension of the front is to accomodate the drawer handles.
> So its now October and I am motivated to get this project finished. (started 2015!)
> ...


Super progress, keep us up to date, please.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *AKs ToolMakers Chest drawer fronts and start of the top case compartment*
> 
> I left off working on the front extension in August, the extension of the front is to accomodate the drawer handles.
> So its now October and I am motivated to get this project finished. (started 2015!)
> ...


Congratulations!

You fixed it the EASY way! ... and it's just as good (probably)...

Looking GOOD!

... and you got that Elephant off of it! (weird picture angle)


----------



## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

robscastle said:


> *AKs ToolMakers Chest drawer fronts and start of the top case compartment*
> 
> I left off working on the front extension in August, the extension of the front is to accomodate the drawer handles.
> So its now October and I am motivated to get this project finished. (started 2015!)
> ...


This going to be an awesome box


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*My Model Contribution*

I have been watching all the great toy model constructions posted, Roadsters, Trucks, Cranes, Bulldozers, and Cars for really little kids, Marble machines an the list goes on.

All sorts of members contribute Ducks, Crows, Masters of the bush, Clog people, Romans in boots and members with just about every letter of the alphabet LBD HTL and as the name list again just goes on and on.
Then there is all the wheely good Jigs that go along to get everything rolling along to support it all.

Now, I was feeling a little left out, so to link up I thought I had get a wiggle on and contribute my model effort.

I did make some little peoples Wooden Concept Cars some time ago, like 2013.










Its a tow truck just in case you wondered!

Any way its now almost 2018 and I have improved my wood working skills just a little, so model making is back on the list.

My contribution begins with looking at my recycle stack from my Smiths Potato Crate repair work.










This stuff is butt ugly and tough as old boots but finishes fantasticly so I am going to recycle it into a model.

I will start by cleaning, Mag testing it and then begin its new Role, as I ponder what I can make.

BTW this blog is real, ...its not just a recognition (AKA Suck up) of all the LJs model toy making skills, its just I left it a little late in the day to make a start so stay tuned!


----------



## Boxguy (Mar 11, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *My Model Contribution*
> 
> I have been watching all the great toy model constructions posted, Roadsters, Trucks, Cranes, Bulldozers, and Cars for really little kids, Marble machines an the list goes on.
> 
> ...


*Rob,* sounds like a plan. I am waiting for the result. Keep making sawdust.


----------



## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *My Model Contribution*
> 
> I have been watching all the great toy model constructions posted, Roadsters, Trucks, Cranes, Bulldozers, and Cars for really little kids, Marble machines an the list goes on.
> 
> ...


Hitch hiking along for the ride!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *My Model Contribution*
> 
> I have been watching all the great toy model constructions posted, Roadsters, Trucks, Cranes, Bulldozers, and Cars for really little kids, Marble machines an the list goes on.
> 
> ...


Neat crates build there *rc*... 









but a set of wheels on them would make it easier for an ankle bitter to push and the seats should be aligned a bit better.


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *My Model Contribution*
> 
> I have been watching all the great toy model constructions posted, Roadsters, Trucks, Cranes, Bulldozers, and Cars for really little kids, Marble machines an the list goes on.
> 
> ...


Good simple hardwood tough toys for kids to play with WINNER Rob…
Material costs nearly nothing; 
Enjoyment twice the fun, yes making them and seeing them played with; GOT TO LOVE THAT!!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *My Model Contribution*
> 
> I have been watching all the great toy model constructions posted, Roadsters, Trucks, Cranes, Bulldozers, and Cars for really little kids, Marble machines an the list goes on.
> 
> ...


Hey That's my model truck (with fully adjustable seats) delivering timber from the lumber yard!

Otherwise thanks all! ... I am still thinking!

Boy it was hot today I am glad I have finished the roof work!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *My Model Contribution*
> 
> I have been watching all the great toy model constructions posted, Roadsters, Trucks, Cranes, Bulldozers, and Cars for really little kids, Marble machines an the list goes on.
> 
> ...





> Boy it was hot today I am glad I have finished the roof work!
> 
> - robscastle


Ya gonna put wheels on it?... to escape the heat quicker!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *My Model Contribution*
> 
> I have been watching all the great toy model constructions posted, Roadsters, Trucks, Cranes, Bulldozers, and Cars for really little kids, Marble machines an the list goes on.
> 
> ...


I might have to get you to send me some hungarian ferns to keep cool

Whats happening in Churchill?


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *My Model Contribution*
> 
> I have been watching all the great toy model constructions posted, Roadsters, Trucks, Cranes, Bulldozers, and Cars for really little kids, Marble machines an the list goes on.
> 
> ...


lookin forward to the results on those toys.looks like you did a good job on getting the roof water tight,thats never a fun job.


----------



## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *My Model Contribution*
> 
> I have been watching all the great toy model constructions posted, Roadsters, Trucks, Cranes, Bulldozers, and Cars for really little kids, Marble machines an the list goes on.
> 
> ...


Roofing, as well as canning home grown veggies, always seems to need to be done on the hottest days of the year. Glad you've finished your roof, Rob!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *My Model Contribution*
> 
> I have been watching all the great toy model constructions posted, Roadsters, Trucks, Cranes, Bulldozers, and Cars for really little kids, Marble machines an the list goes on.
> 
> ...





> Whats happening in Churchill?
> 
> - robscastle


Rather quiet in Churchill… We had the World Trade Fair scheduled there for last weekend, but it was too hot on the roof so no one turned up… that was good outcome as there was a fire ban on that day and the sausage sizzle had to be cancelled.


> .... send me some hungarian ferns to keep* cool*
> - robscastle


Now that would be *cool* if I could! Being the son of a GOOD Hungarian fern cutter… there's no more ferns left… you'll just have to settle for Target brand "bracken".


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *My Model Contribution*
> 
> I have been watching all the great toy model constructions posted, Roadsters, Trucks, Cranes, Bulldozers, and Cars for really little kids, Marble machines an the list goes on.
> 
> ...


Thanks Alex, Pottzy and Candy.
I will continue in short secessions due to being Summer in the driveway.
Edit: I will continue in short sessions due to it being summer and I work in my driveway.

A picture:-
Thats odd? ... how do you cut and paste a picture? ... anyway I wanted to use the picture in "My Workshop" as an example but I guess you get the picture anyway snicker snicker!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *My Model Contribution*
> 
> I have been watching all the great toy model constructions posted, Roadsters, Trucks, Cranes, Bulldozers, and Cars for really little kids, Marble machines an the list goes on.
> 
> ...





> ..... due to being *Summer in the driveway*.
> 
> - robscastle


You Queenslander lie about your weather…

*"Beautiful one day and perfect the next"..... BAH!* 
(and a Humbug… to boot, keeping with the Chrissy sentiment).

Then… why is your *summer* restricted to *your driveway*... Here in Victoria, it's all* around the house*!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *My Model Contribution*
> 
> I have been watching all the great toy model constructions posted, Roadsters, Trucks, Cranes, Bulldozers, and Cars for really little kids, Marble machines an the list goes on.
> 
> ...


3 echo O boy the joys of getting old. Alex see corrections above.

I could say there is a hole in the ozone layer right above my driveway but Iam thinking you woudnt swallow that


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *My Model Contribution*
> 
> I have been watching all the great toy model constructions posted, Roadsters, Trucks, Cranes, Bulldozers, and Cars for really little kids, Marble machines an the list goes on.
> 
> ...





> .... but Iam thinking you woudnt swallow that…
> 
> - robscastle


I can swallow anything… You guys won Origin 2017… that was a hard pill to swallow!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *My Model Contribution*
> 
> I have been watching all the great toy model constructions posted, Roadsters, Trucks, Cranes, Bulldozers, and Cars for really little kids, Marble machines an the list goes on.
> 
> ...


Yeah that's because they swallowed lots of XXXX

If you want I could send you a slab for Christmas


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *My Model Contribution*
> 
> I have been watching all the great toy model constructions posted, Roadsters, Trucks, Cranes, Bulldozers, and Cars for really little kids, Marble machines an the list goes on.
> 
> ...


The missus won't let me watch XXX… I could only imagine her reaction if I added another layer of X.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Model Raw materials prep*

I started work early this morning trying to beat the heat.

I ran my metal detector loop over the timber to ensure it had no metalic FO in it.
Next was a good wire brushing to remove crud build up.
Satisfied all was good to go I fed them into the thicknesser and followed up by edging them with the table saw.
I then ripped the damaged pieces with splits in them and ended up with a material stock list looking like this










Unfortunately there was only about six pieces of any practical use.










Wondering just what I could make with them it suddenly dawned on me I could make a model Potato crate!
I certainly had enough small pieces to do that.
A bit off the track of a toy model with wheels doors and any dynamic parts, but I decided to give it a go.

Here is what a full size Potato Crate looks like.










Its roughly a standard pallet 1160×1160 with four sides added and held together with 50mm angle.

Without having the ability to scale it I decided to make the base 150mm x 150mm and the side panels the same.

So I set up the table saw with the fence on the left side of the blade and fed all the smaller pieces through to make the actual boards, the base bearers I did much the same with but there was less of them and different dimensions obviously.

I had enough materials to make four model crates.
Ripping material that small required two push sticks and very careful operation of the saw as pinkies were very close to a manicuring.

Then it was a safer and simpler task of cutting them to length on the drop saw.

As luck would have it I still had the original pictures from when I first quoted to do the job back in 2013.
The boards are actually staggered end wise and alternated on the frame work










So I recut the boards so to match the shorter ones.

I then bagged up all the parts so I could keep track of what was doing










I then started on the crate bases.

I had planned on just brad nailing everyting together but my test run proved this to be not a good idea as although the brads were small they still split my test sample.










Pre drilling them all was out of the question as I could hardly see the drill bit let alone do any accurate repetition drilling, there are 8 x slats on the base and 28 x on the sides 3x bearers and 4x 45deg vertical posts.

So I resorted to just glueing them all together.

This is what I ended up with before the heat beat me.










They were a reasonable result and looked to be representative scale models










Not forgetting the odd bit of sanding to remove saw blade burn marks.

So I religated my model making to that of a simple model Box not a toy car as planned, a bit disapointing I guess but at least Big Al will be pleased!!

Its time for a re hydrate!


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *Model Raw materials prep*
> 
> I started work early this morning trying to beat the heat.
> 
> ...


Now *Spud*, all ya gotta do is grow some miniature potatoes before the 5th of Feb.


----------



## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Model Raw materials prep*
> 
> I started work early this morning trying to beat the heat.
> 
> ...


Well, that was an unexpected turn! Now that you have all those mini pallets you need a mini forklift to move them. I've seen one done here on Lj's…somewhere!
Edit: found one…


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Model Raw materials prep*
> 
> I started work early this morning trying to beat the heat.
> 
> ...


Love the recycled timber Rob…top marks!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Model Raw materials prep*
> 
> I started work early this morning trying to beat the heat.
> 
> ...


Alex:- still working on the significance of the 5th Feb, any hints?

Believe it or not I did try to grow potatoes and all I got for my gardening efforts was a handfull of marble size potatoes, gave that idea away and just visit woolies or Aldi now.

Mind you when I was at Smiths I saw a potato the size of a football, pity I didnt get a picture of it, it was a wopper.

It was about this size.










Crowie:- Yep I expected results like that, ... pity there was not more useable sizes, oh well.

Candy:- I went looking for all the fork lifts you mentioned, they did good job, I did make a 2D one but sadly it was for a deceased worker, I think you may have seen it.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *Model Raw materials prep*
> 
> I started work early this morning trying to beat the heat.
> 
> ...





> Alex:- still working on the significance of the 5th Feb, any hints?


You're the one with the picture calendar…











> ..... was a handfull of* marble *size potatoes…..
> 
> - robscastle


As always LBD to the rescue,








Your next project...



> ... pity there was not more useable sizes, oh well.
> 
> - robscastle


You can always make toothpicks for grandma… the one without the teeth!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Model Raw materials prep*
> 
> I started work early this morning trying to beat the heat.
> 
> ...


OMG Good thing it was not a snake!
You know this stuff embeds splinters like nobodys business! ... all very small but so painful they are work stoppers, it must be something in the tannin or the type of timber.


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Model Raw materials prep*
> 
> I started work early this morning trying to beat the heat.
> 
> ...


Always love it when the wood tells you it wants to be something else.

Now go find some wood that wants to be a car, fork lift, truck or what ever. LOL


----------



## Boxguy (Mar 11, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Model Raw materials prep*
> 
> I started work early this morning trying to beat the heat.
> 
> ...


*Rob*, can there be any higher calling for wood than a box? Thanks for the shout out. Happy re-hydrating. I am making a box for my grandson to hold his poke-mon cards. I'll post it when I finish the finish. It is below freezing this month on my end of the world.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Model potato Crate Making the sides*

Hello again,

well here I am busy working away and get stopped to put up Christmas lights.

So a late start and no doubt an early finish due to heat. O boy the joys of getting old.

Anyway back to it
To make the four sides, it involves a bit of planning as two opposite sides are the same, a uniform spacing all round, however the other two have a bottom board which overlaps the pallet base.

I made a simple jig to set them out in and I used some window spacers to maintain the final spacing.

Here is the jig.

An explanation: I cut the window spacers in half and used two sizes to allow uniform vertical spacing.
To produce the alternate horizontal offsetting I used the off cuts from the short boards turned on their ends pushed them all up tight and glued in the 45 deg corner post.










Another view.
Notice the end post is in line with the top and bottom board.










Now the two opposite sides,
Notice the top board (its actually upside down) is overlapping the 45 deg post end.










So continuing on I have to make 8 of each style and only one Jig, so I am going to be a while, its no point in boring you with any more ho hum stuff so thats it for a while, I will however keep swaping them out every couple of hours, to get them finished I am not just goofing off ! ... pickling the brain, ...just yet!

Oh almost forgot Clamping. (echo O boy the joys of getting old.)

I used a battery and some camping mat as the post kept turning with a conventional clamp.


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Model potato Crate Making the sides*
> 
> Hello again,
> 
> ...


You're going all out on this model experiment Rob…


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Model potato Crate Making the sides*
> 
> Hello again,
> 
> ...


your anything but boring rob,its always an adventure buddy.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*The model Potato Crate gets assembled*

Some "interesting" progress for a change.
After making 2 sets of sides I realised I could speed progress up some what by implementing an alternative assembly method while waiting for the jig lots glue to dry.

As I had made enough of of the opposing sides I decided to use assembly method No 2 in an attempt to speed things up.

So *Method 1.* Was to assemble the four prefabricated sides to the base all in one go, with only one jig I was getting bored watching glue dry. As I had four matching sides done I had this brainstorm for another method.

You might call it a duck moment!

So *Method 2.* Using two matching prefabricated sides and four individual boards I could semi assemble the sides.

Something like this










A bit fiddlly needed more attention to squaring up but a suppliment to the alternative assembly method 1,










That worked OK for two of the crates. So I did them.

Then once the glue was dry it was a simple matter of adding the remaining individual boards.










Apply glue and simply add more boards.










In no time at all I had reduced the assembly process by 50% duration,

I was pleased with that as I got into trouble wandering around in the garden pulling "weeds" my wife tells me they were chilli plants she was nurtruring, so I quicky put them back and scampered.










Much sooner than expected I had two crates almost fully assembled.










I say "almost fully assembled" as there now needs to be four metal angles on the corners for authenticity.
So I am off looking for some pressed steel 1/4" or 6 mm angle to do the job.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *The model Potato Crate gets assembled*
> 
> Some "interesting" progress for a change.
> After making 2 sets of sides I realised I could speed progress up some what by implementing an alternative assembly method while waiting for the jig lots glue to dry.
> ...


*rc*, I have lost perspective of the magnitude of this Eifel Tower!

Have you considered CA? If it's the magnitude of the 8th. wonder of the world, perhaps a 4 minute epoxy (I'm deducting 1 minute for Qld. weather) could stimulate an extension to your life!


----------



## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *The model Potato Crate gets assembled*
> 
> Some "interesting" progress for a change.
> After making 2 sets of sides I realised I could speed progress up some what by implementing an alternative assembly method while waiting for the jig lots glue to dry.
> ...


Rob, do be careful with your helpfulness in the garden!


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *The model Potato Crate gets assembled*
> 
> Some "interesting" progress for a change.
> After making 2 sets of sides I realised I could speed progress up some what by implementing an alternative assembly method while waiting for the jig lots glue to dry.
> ...


My oh my, these are almost a work of art….


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *The model Potato Crate gets assembled*
> 
> Some "interesting" progress for a change.
> After making 2 sets of sides I realised I could speed progress up some what by implementing an alternative assembly method while waiting for the jig lots glue to dry.
> ...


Replies:-
LBD:-
CA glue yes I am aware of it but dont know the long term effectiveness of it so I stayed with the TB III and just waited it out.

Candy:-
I hear you lady! ... I also trimmed up some other over growing "stuff" from the garden, Aurora nearly took to me with the hedge clippers so that was a definate Keep out! and definate Dont Touch! now

Crowie:- Thanks they are getting there a lot more interesting progress coming.

Its 25 deg here already, although I should not complain much it was 33 in Vic according to last nights news.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *The model Potato Crate gets assembled*
> 
> Some "interesting" progress for a change.
> After making 2 sets of sides I realised I could speed progress up some what by implementing an alternative assembly method while waiting for the jig lots glue to dry.
> ...





> Replies:-
> LBD:-
> CA glue yes I am aware of it but dont know the long term effectiveness of it so I stayed with the TB III and just waited it out.
> 
> ...


yeah "stick" with the tb3,i wouldn't trust the ca holding up long term either!.looking good buddy.so just who are all these intended for?.maybe lj buddies-buddy!.-ha-ha.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *The model Potato Crate gets assembled*
> 
> Some "interesting" progress for a change.
> After making 2 sets of sides I realised I could speed progress up some what by implementing an alternative assembly method while waiting for the jig lots glue to dry.
> ...





> Replies:-
> LBD:-
> CA glue yes I am aware of it but dont know the long term effectiveness of it so I stayed with the TB III and just waited it out.
> 
> - robscastle


*rc*, don't know whether you've suffered the indignity of wading through my 17 YO Boat Cruise. I CA'd some cast iron miniature cleats onto a bit of timber and tied some rope to it… all be it not super tight… well 17 years later, it's still holding onto that "Mizzen Topgalant Sail Sheet Stay" for it's dear life with both hands… a bit better success with CA than trying to stop the missus from nagging me!

I believe *htl* swears (and also advocates) the use of CA on his models


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *The model Potato Crate gets assembled*
> 
> Some "interesting" progress for a change.
> After making 2 sets of sides I realised I could speed progress up some what by implementing an alternative assembly method while waiting for the jig lots glue to dry.
> ...


Alex,

Yes I did check out all your posts be it by default ages ago looking for the Where's Wally MDF project you mentioned, I was quite impressed with the boat build, and if its held up for 17 years thats testement enough.
Its just every time I glued the rear view mirror on the windscreen with CA glue next trip it was back on the seat again!

If htl uses it it must be good, also I see lots of turners applying it as well.
I know degoose used it on his cutting boards as had me buy some for him one visit.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *The model Potato Crate gets assembled*
> 
> Some "interesting" progress for a change.
> After making 2 sets of sides I realised I could speed progress up some what by implementing an alternative assembly method while waiting for the jig lots glue to dry.
> ...


yeah for turning the stuff rocks I use for making and finishing my pens,but for most woodworking I stick to titebond.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *The model Potato Crate gets assembled*
> 
> Some "interesting" progress for a change.
> After making 2 sets of sides I realised I could speed progress up some what by implementing an alternative assembly method while waiting for the jig lots glue to dry.
> ...





> yeah for turning the stuff rocks I use for making and finishing my pens….


*pottzy*, you turn pens?... who turned you?


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *The model Potato Crate gets assembled*
> 
> Some "interesting" progress for a change.
> After making 2 sets of sides I realised I could speed progress up some what by implementing an alternative assembly method while waiting for the jig lots glue to dry.
> ...


pottzy

The build was just using up the pieces i never intended to make them for anybody in particular however I could donate one to a deserving person if that was your thinking.

Wait until I get em dun then decide, I am open to any suggestion.

I guess they would hold a few pens.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *The model Potato Crate gets assembled*
> 
> Some "interesting" progress for a change.
> After making 2 sets of sides I realised I could speed progress up some what by implementing an alternative assembly method while waiting for the jig lots glue to dry.
> ...





> yeah for turning the stuff rocks I use for making and finishing my pens….
> 
> *pottzy*, you turn pens?... who turned you?
> 
> - LittleBlackDuck


wow ducky that's kinda personel! lots of people turn me-on! we may have to take this pm buddy-lol.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *The model Potato Crate gets assembled*
> 
> Some "interesting" progress for a change.
> After making 2 sets of sides I realised I could speed progress up some what by implementing an alternative assembly method while waiting for the jig lots glue to dry.
> ...





> ... wow ducky that s kinda personel! lots of people turn…
> - pottz


Keep your mind away from that spot between and above your two big toes… perhaps I've been watching far too many vampire movies recently.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *The model Potato Crate gets assembled*
> 
> Some "interesting" progress for a change.
> After making 2 sets of sides I realised I could speed progress up some what by implementing an alternative assembly method while waiting for the jig lots glue to dry.
> ...


Hey this is getting scary!


----------



## Boxguy (Mar 11, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *The model Potato Crate gets assembled*
> 
> Some "interesting" progress for a change.
> After making 2 sets of sides I realised I could speed progress up some what by implementing an alternative assembly method while waiting for the jig lots glue to dry.
> ...


*Rob*, I find that I can pin nail interior parts of boxes after I spread the glue. It holds enough to act as a clamp on smaller parts so I can go on to the next step without waiting on the glue to dry or having clamps in my way.

So, I would have put down my glue spots, set my small board in place, and pin nailed it in place. If the nails came through on a project like your mini potato hauler, I would just touch it to the belt sander after it was assembled and the sander would being the nails flush.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*The Model Potato Crate Surface finishing*

Almost done, once all the glue was set it was time to commence surface finishing

I started off on the disc Sander getting all the board edges level and then commenced sanding all the saw blade burn marks out.
I used my 1/2 sheet orbital sander and a ROS started with 80 grit and finished with 400 grit.










I burned up heaps of sheets sanding this tough as timber I think each crate devoured a single sheet of each grade but it was worth it all.

*Sanding:-*
This was the result I obtained.
The left crate has been sanded, and its mate on the right awaiting its turn










The grits I used were, 80 120 240 320 an finished with 400.

Once I had finished the sanding I set up my polishing gear to finish the project.

I used a white compound and a sisal pad mounted on a spindle to polish each crate.










Working away I produced the following results.

*Polishing:-*










And this is the final finished job, some of the saw marks you see were left for the rustic effect.










The stack of dead sanding consumables are on the right!

That completes the actual woodworking aspects, all that remains now is to fit the angle bracing on the corners.

I went looking for suitable angle today on both the net and local harware suppliers but returned empty handed, I hope this doesn't turn into a activity like the Euro hinge hunt saga.

Well thats it for the blog, once I find the angle I will fit it all, and will then post the Model Crates as a project.

BTW I got a good result with the friction polishing, however I thought I could improve on it, so I decided to use some furniture polish to see if I could get a better sheen, ...dont try this at home … the furniture polish produced a less sheen effect which was actually worse! ... and I had to re-polish a section again to match the rest of the crate.

Thanks for following and commenting.


----------



## Boxguy (Mar 11, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *The Model Potato Crate Surface finishing*
> 
> Almost done, once all the glue was set it was time to commence surface finishing
> 
> ...


Rob, nice project…now if you had just put splines in the corners it would look like this.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *The Model Potato Crate Surface finishing*
> 
> Almost done, once all the glue was set it was time to commence surface finishing
> 
> ...


Next time Big Al, next time, ...promise!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Pallet Table 2012 to 2018*

Back in Jul 2012 I made a pine Pallet table and stained it Cedar.

I am not sure why I never posted it, possibly because using recycled pallet timber for "fine' furniture is not really the done thing, and it was actually not completed or finished.

Regardless here is a short story about it.










Apart from the shop bought turned legs all the rest is recycled pallet wood.










The top is a typical breadboard end construction.










I dont remember what method I used to edge join the sections, but it looks like I used polyurethane glue in the construction.










The underside has a central brace fitted.










The frame I simply profiled with a router bit.










Then for finishing, In Jul 2012 I profiled the table top edge and stained it Cedar.

It then remained unfinished and unused until this week.
I think at one stage I put it on ebay for sale, but it attracted no interest, and got stored away.

Now in 2018, into my wood disposal items it was placed.










Its interesting to see that there is no real movement in the timber after all this time.

So maybe pallet timber has a place in furniture after all.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *Pallet Table 2012 to 2018*
> 
> Back in Jul 2012 I made a pine Pallet table and stained it Cedar.
> 
> ...


Don't sell yourself too short *rc*... You migh not have had any eBay offers but it's a neat piece of furniture anyway. Only *Pierre Cardin* is qualified to question the timber's origin/species and most people can't even spell his name.

You should salvage it from the disposal stack, give it a good shellacking (or two) and promote it to a worthwhile house item.



> Its interesting to see that there is no real movement in the timber after all this time.
> - robscastle


Put it on a set of wheels and feed it prunes… then stand back and watch it move…
and when it stops drag it back into your house!


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *Pallet Table 2012 to 2018*
> 
> Back in Jul 2012 I made a pine Pallet table and stained it Cedar.
> 
> ...


It will be interesting to see what the NEW one will look like…

Thank you!


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Pallet Table 2012 to 2018*
> 
> Back in Jul 2012 I made a pine Pallet table and stained it Cedar.
> 
> ...


Looks quite good Rob…Beautiful figure in the pine and the cedar stain sets it off perfectly!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Finishing the Potato Crate models*

Well after a delay due to not knowing how to proceed with the metal retaining angles I had to put the job on hold.

After searching high and low for suitable material I by chance found some material close to what I wanted in my local ALDI store.

I brought it home and set about finding somebody that could cut the metal to the size I needed.
I had no such luck in finding anybody so the project got shelved for some time.

Well its now May and I have decided that I could cut the angle on my combination saw.

So I set up some jigs and got my Einhell Drop saw out, dusted it off and checked the manual, sure enough the saw with its current blade was supposed to be able to cut metal plastic and also wood.










So I thought I would see what it could do.

Sure enough it would cut steel if you were careful.










This is a shot of the angle before and after "ripping" it to the size I wanted.










I then drilled holes in the angle and screwed them onto the crate.










Job complete, at last. ...

In closing does the subject of cuting steel on the saw interest you ? and want to know the pros and cons of doing so?

I could do a blog on the process, its quite interesting and can be done if you have a universal type saw and, like me, never considered doing it before.


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Finishing the Potato Crate models*
> 
> Well after a delay due to not knowing how to proceed with the metal retaining angles I had to put the job on hold.
> 
> ...


That looks pretty good to my eye Rob.


----------



## Boxguy (Mar 11, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Finishing the Potato Crate models*
> 
> Well after a delay due to not knowing how to proceed with the metal retaining angles I had to put the job on hold.
> 
> ...


*Rob*, this potato box sounds like the kind of quest i would expect you to take on, being the Sir Edmond Hillary of woodworking. Building a potato box sounds pretty normal if you have spent the past two weeks building a spoon, a ukulele hanger, a set of sticks to make bells ring, and designing and building a leather strap for a ukulele.

I always enjoy seeing what projects you come up with and how your mind works as you solve the problems that the projects presents. Keep creating and keep posting


----------



## hunter71 (Sep 4, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Finishing the Potato Crate models*
> 
> Well after a delay due to not knowing how to proceed with the metal retaining angles I had to put the job on hold.
> 
> ...


Too nice for Tatters.


----------



## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Finishing the Potato Crate models*
> 
> Well after a delay due to not knowing how to proceed with the metal retaining angles I had to put the job on hold.
> 
> ...


Who knew ALDI also sells such things as metal. Great project


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Finishing the Potato Crate models*
> 
> Well after a delay due to not knowing how to proceed with the metal retaining angles I had to put the job on hold.
> 
> ...


Thanks Guys !

*Crowie:* even my wife was impressed when she saw them.

*Boxguy:* Thanks, a few delays and setbacks but no frostbite! coiling the ropes up for next challenge, "The Spline"

*hunter 71:* Yes agree posssibly a good desk organiser!

*NormG:* The things you find following the wife pushing a shopping trolley in an ALDI store, I even saw a 3D printer one day! makes one pay more attention when shopping.


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## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *Finishing the Potato Crate models*
> 
> Well after a delay due to not knowing how to proceed with the metal retaining angles I had to put the job on hold.
> 
> ...


Looks like a real Tank of a box!

HF has a metal cutting saw… like a wood cuttoff saw…
Either that or mounting a metal cutting band saw blade onto a band saw(??)


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Finishing the Potato Crate models*
> 
> Well after a delay due to not knowing how to proceed with the metal retaining angles I had to put the job on hold.
> 
> ...


Joe:

Rest assured I considered the bandsaw, along with the jig saw, friction blade in the angle grinder as well.

I thought, (incorrectly I might add) that in this day and age we could have Quality Commercial Guillotines that could do the job.

The bandsaw and Jigsaw although I had blades that would do the job I was concerned I would have to linish the angle straight after cutting it to get the edges correct.
The cut off friction blade I considered but also discounted due to excessive heat build up and raggedy edges.

As it turned out I still had to remove the sharp edges, so I guess I could have done it ages ago.
Oh well thats a woodworker for you!


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*MushroomSeat Mk III secretly underway.*

After having my wife bless my work at the finish post I have secretly started No 3 in a hope I dont get busted and loose yet another Work seat/step stool.

After seven years I could not remember how I made the original one so it was all re discovery work.

I had no worries about making the base sections from recycled pine this time as the previous one lasted 7 years outside so that will do me.

I used the same incorrect process to cut them as per the Mk II seat and did the biscuit cut outs today then hid them all away from prying eyes.

This time I will again use No 20 biscuits and pocket holes, hoping it will make the assembly more managable.
I will also go see if there is a better method the join them all together.
The outside faces will receive some sort of router work on them, not sure how I will do that but its gotta be improvement from the original otherwise learning has not taken place.

I know one fact documenting the process saves a lot of time for the additional builds.

I had to remake the biscuit Jig as I had no recollection as to how I did the cut outs before.

*The jig for the biscuit cuts:*

*Note :This Jig is unecessary if you know how to use your Biscuit Cutter correctly.*

*Picture No 1* showing an off cut from the tapering work as a angle guide.










Its handed, so once a side was done I needed to dismantle it and do the other edge, nothing too complicated I just used a square and some edge off cuts to setup the correct position so the biscuits cuts perfectly matched each ajoining section.

Here is a section set up on the jig.

*Picture 2* Showing the joining section set up at 90 degrees or parallel to the biscuit jointer face.










Then another shot showing the indexing block.

*Picture No 3* showing the indexing block and a section of masonite to raise the cutter blade to exactly mid way of the edge. The indexing block ensures the section is flat on the surface and holds every in place.










And finally the results to date.










To be continued in a few days as I have a few non woodworking tasks to do.


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## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *MushroomSeat Mk III secretly underway.*
> 
> After having my wife bless my work at the finish post I have secretly started No 3 in a hope I dont get busted and loose yet another Work seat/step stool.
> 
> ...


Clever and innovative Rob….


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *MushroomSeat Mk III secretly underway.*
> 
> After having my wife bless my work at the finish post I have secretly started No 3 in a hope I dont get busted and loose yet another Work seat/step stool.
> 
> ...


Better with the biscuits than the pocket screws Rob.


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *MushroomSeat Mk III secretly underway.*
> 
> After having my wife bless my work at the finish post I have secretly started No 3 in a hope I dont get busted and loose yet another Work seat/step stool.
> 
> ...


*rc*, If I'm seeing it correctly, are you pushing the biscuiter on a flat base into an angled timber. I would have thought if you angled the "biscuiter's fence" and referenced it from the top of the boards, you would have been able to get the adjacent angles right… after a bit of maths…

Now if you understood the above… gimme a Pauline Hanson… please explain (2 me)!


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *MushroomSeat Mk III secretly underway.*
> 
> After having my wife bless my work at the finish post I have secretly started No 3 in a hope I dont get busted and loose yet another Work seat/step stool.
> 
> ...


OK here is my PH explanation.

The biscuits need to be at 90 degrees to each side of the 22.14 Joint face to align correctly.
To achive this I could have raised the biscuit cutter off the surface to match the section at 90 deg or raise the section edge to match the biscuit cutters face I.E. 90 degrees to each other or parallel.

As I had edge offcuts from the tapered sections already I just used them to align the section.

*Picture No 4. *










What gives its starting to rain while I am explaining stuff?

Now at this stage I had dismantled the jig so the indexing block and masonite are gone away.

*Picture No 5*

Here is damp view of the support angle and everything set at 90 degrees if ready to cut.










When it stops raining I will go check my biscuit cutter to see if the face is adjustable, I dont think it is otherwise I am a DH!


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *MushroomSeat Mk III secretly underway.*
> 
> After having my wife bless my work at the finish post I have secretly started No 3 in a hope I dont get busted and loose yet another Work seat/step stool.
> 
> ...


OK here is my PH explanation.

The biscuits need to be at 90 degrees to each side of the 22.14 Joint face to align correctly.
To achive this I could have raised the biscuit cutter off the surface to match the section at 90 deg or raise the section edge to match the biscuit cutters face I.E. 90 degrees to each other or parallel.

As I had edge offcuts from the tapered sections already I just used them to align the section.

Picture No 4.










What gives its starting to rain while I am explaining stuff?


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## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *MushroomSeat Mk III secretly underway.*
> 
> After having my wife bless my work at the finish post I have secretly started No 3 in a hope I dont get busted and loose yet another Work seat/step stool.
> 
> ...


It is adjustable….I won't say it…


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *MushroomSeat Mk III secretly underway.*
> 
> After having my wife bless my work at the finish post I have secretly started No 3 in a hope I dont get busted and loose yet another Work seat/step stool.
> 
> ...


Oh no! its slappin' time.










How easy is that!










Excuse me while I flush myself, ...RTFM comes to mind!


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *MushroomSeat Mk III secretly underway.*
> 
> After having my wife bless my work at the finish post I have secretly started No 3 in a hope I dont get busted and loose yet another Work seat/step stool.
> 
> ...





> ...RTFM comes to mind!...
> - robscastle


Guilty, hate reading… must admit I'd rather WTFV… Watch The …. Video!


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Mushroom seat Mk III continunes or Pt2*

OK, so has anybody got any of these pieces of kit still ?

Its a 3D router carver I have had it for years, (and it cost a fortune over time) and now its used it less than my Hollow Chisel Mortiser!
So it got dragged out dusted off today then set to work.
Remember I said I was going to route a few features on the Mushroom Seat Mk III?

Well I got stuck into it today.

Now as usual I made life hard for myself as this work should have been done before cutting tapering edges, however it's what it is.

I made a jig from bits of off cuts and set everything up ready to go.










I used the Cascade template as it would fit my tapered sections OK.

Its a bit of fiddling about so rather than some long winded quacking and boring you with lots of reading here is a four photo sequence covering everything

Carve 1.










Carve 2.










Carve 3.










Carve 4.










Then on with the rest.










Now please don't be telling me I should have used a CNC and just watched the action, I already know its "Old School" and I should put it on ebay!

Anyway I was reasonably happy with the results, but thought I could do better so after ferreting around I found my Gold and Copper leaf gear and set about gilding the carving.

This is now the result.










you ask why? ... Well a man has got to have a "flasher" seat than the wife!!

Added some glue and biscuits and glued it all up then it was the strap ons again.










Checked the joints.

Top.










Bottom.










No pocket screws used this time Mike, and doesn't look much like a Mushroom Seat any more now, but what the heck …anyway thats enough for today.


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *Mushroom seat Mk III continunes or Pt2*
> 
> OK, so has anybody got any of these pieces of kit still ?
> 
> ...





> ..... you ask why? ...
> - robscastle


*WHY?*....

Actually (or is it Shirley), WHY is in response to you asking me why I ask why…

That is neat… bugger the CNC… like the way you built it up… must admit you had me questioning your sanity when I saw picture #1…

Now that I've seen it all… I still question your sanity… nevertheless,










I like!


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## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Mushroom seat Mk III continunes or Pt2*
> 
> OK, so has anybody got any of these pieces of kit still ?
> 
> ...


That really sets the piece off something special Rob…. Well done indeed!!


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Mushroom seat Mk III continunes or Pt2*
> 
> OK, so has anybody got any of these pieces of kit still ?
> 
> ...


Pretty cool Rob.


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## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *Mushroom seat Mk III continunes or Pt2*
> 
> OK, so has anybody got any of these pieces of kit still ?
> 
> ...


Yeah… I thought you just did a great job of carving…

Now, you show us how you did a great job of Faking a Carving feat!

... a very unique way of doing, I might add… 

COOL


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Mushroom seat Mk III continunes or Pt2*
> 
> OK, so has anybody got any of these pieces of kit still ?
> 
> ...


Hello Joe,

Hand carving is way beyond my skills Joe, I will leave that to Stefang and fancy chip they can produce some great works.

The 3D Router carver was around maybe 10 years ago, no doubt the CNC technology overtook it.

A bit like 8 Track Cartridge Players, Cassette tapes and CDs !!now used for drawing circles or dado spacer these days.


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *Mushroom seat Mk III continunes or Pt2*
> 
> OK, so has anybody got any of these pieces of kit still ?
> 
> ...





> ..... A bit like 8 Track Cartridge Players, Cassette tapes and CDs…..
> - robscastle


Aha… but they may have a resurgence like the goodol' vinyl…!


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Mushroom seat Mk III continunes or Pt2*
> 
> OK, so has anybody got any of these pieces of kit still ?
> 
> ...


Well if that dosn't blow your mind how about this:-
I had a reel to reel video recorder that could work in elapsed time mode
Along with lots of B&W video tapes that kept my kids amused for hours.

I found one similar on youtube


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Mower shed repair work*

In Dec 2013 and again in Aug 2014 I built two "Mower Sheds" from recycled materials.
They all faired reasonably well and considering my construction skills at the time most of the weathering was attributed to poor design on my behalf in the first place.

The first shed that had plain butt jointed roofing was rectified by covering with a rubber mat. It needs a complete rebuild, but to simply weatherproof in the short term that was the temporary fix.










The second shed had a plywood roof but it developed rot in the wooden ridge capping of which I thought was odd, however checking my build photos the ridge capping was fitted in two pieces, no doubt I scaffed them but again a poor design feature.
So I removed the damaged capping and replaced it.

This time I made a continous complete length of ridge capping and increased its dimensions.

The problem:










The fix:










Preparation:
Set the table saw to 22.5 degrees and make four cuts in the timber








I cut drip edges underneath and sloped the ends at 10 deg 
Profiling:
1. Ripped four cuts in the timber, take care as a projectile hazard may exist doing Right tilt cutting with a table saw.










2. There is a bit of timber wastage but thats life









3. Here is the final edge capping in the raw.









Fitup:
I used construction adhesive along the roof ridge joints and the screwed the capping on.
At this stage it had been sanded and sealed.









Finishing:
over the next 2 days I will undercoat it and then apply the final finishing coats, and the job is complete.

Both could do replacement with larger similar footprint single shed but its in the future at the moment, as my son has one he will remove upon his own home renos being completed and I will recycle it.


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## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Mower shed repair work*
> 
> In Dec 2013 and again in Aug 2014 I built two "Mower Sheds" from recycled materials.
> They all faired reasonably well and considering my construction skills at the time most of the weathering was attributed to poor design on my behalf in the first place.
> ...


Clever bugger


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## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Mower shed repair work*
> 
> In Dec 2013 and again in Aug 2014 I built two "Mower Sheds" from recycled materials.
> They all faired reasonably well and considering my construction skills at the time most of the weathering was attributed to poor design on my behalf in the first place.
> ...


you're very good at this recycling and reusing stuff Rob …..


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## anthm27 (May 12, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Mower shed repair work*
> 
> In Dec 2013 and again in Aug 2014 I built two "Mower Sheds" from recycled materials.
> They all faired reasonably well and considering my construction skills at the time most of the weathering was attributed to poor design on my behalf in the first place.
> ...


Got the job done nicely,well done.
Nice looking table saw Rob,
No such luxury here unfortunately.
Cheers Anth


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Mower shed repair work*
> 
> In Dec 2013 and again in Aug 2014 I built two "Mower Sheds" from recycled materials.
> They all faired reasonably well and considering my construction skills at the time most of the weathering was attributed to poor design on my behalf in the first place.
> ...


Anthony, There is an interesting story behind how I actually came to have the saw.
Have a read if its of interest

http://lumberjocks.com/robscastle/blog/99418


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## anthm27 (May 12, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Mower shed repair work*
> 
> In Dec 2013 and again in Aug 2014 I built two "Mower Sheds" from recycled materials.
> They all faired reasonably well and considering my construction skills at the time most of the weathering was attributed to poor design on my behalf in the first place.
> ...





> Anthony, There is an interesting story behind how I actually came to have the saw.
> Have a read if its of interest
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/robscastle/blog/99418
> ...


Yer Brilliant , had a read. So do you use the MBS-300 or the ST12H? Hopefully Santa will provide as good this year as he did in 2016.
Where was the school?? My school day woodworking class was at Randwick in Sydney, it would bizarre if it was from my old school.
Cheers
Anth


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Mower shed repair work*
> 
> In Dec 2013 and again in Aug 2014 I built two "Mower Sheds" from recycled materials.
> They all faired reasonably well and considering my construction skills at the time most of the weathering was attributed to poor design on my behalf in the first place.
> ...


CBHS Canterbury Boys high School in Dennison Rd Canterbury, a private school.
The MBS -330 was at my sons place while we built plywwod cupboards then it went to my brothers place at Blayney, actually he has just bought a Lucas mill.


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## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Mower shed repair work*
> 
> In Dec 2013 and again in Aug 2014 I built two "Mower Sheds" from recycled materials.
> They all faired reasonably well and considering my construction skills at the time most of the weathering was attributed to poor design on my behalf in the first place.
> ...





> CBHS Canterbury Boys high School in Dennison Rd Canterbury, a private school.
> The MBS -330 was at my sons place while we built plywwod cupboards then it went to my brothers place at Blayney, actually he has just bought a Lucas mill.
> 
> - robscastle


With the drought their will be a good supply of timber to mill…. 
maybe some extra income, in trying time for county folk.

My wife's cousin who lives in Parkes says it's been the driest year since he moved there in 1974


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## anthm27 (May 12, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Mower shed repair work*
> 
> In Dec 2013 and again in Aug 2014 I built two "Mower Sheds" from recycled materials.
> They all faired reasonably well and considering my construction skills at the time most of the weathering was attributed to poor design on my behalf in the first place.
> ...





> CBHS Canterbury Boys high School in Dennison Rd Canterbury, a private school.
> The MBS -330 was at my sons place while we built plywwod cupboards then it went to my brothers place at Blayney, actually he has just bought a Lucas mill.
> 
> - robscastle


Tell your Brother in Blayney if he runs out of room he can store his Lucas mill in my farm shed at Kyogle. Standing by for Pics of the Lucas mill set up


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## anthm27 (May 12, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Mower shed repair work*
> 
> In Dec 2013 and again in Aug 2014 I built two "Mower Sheds" from recycled materials.
> They all faired reasonably well and considering my construction skills at the time most of the weathering was attributed to poor design on my behalf in the first place.
> ...





> With the drought their will be a good supply of timber to mill….
> maybe some extra income, in trying time for county folk.
> 
> My wife s cousin who lives in Parkes says it s been the driest year since he moved there in 1974
> ...


I Love Parkes, *""The Dish""* will be dry.


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## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *Mower shed repair work*
> 
> In Dec 2013 and again in Aug 2014 I built two "Mower Sheds" from recycled materials.
> They all faired reasonably well and considering my construction skills at the time most of the weathering was attributed to poor design on my behalf in the first place.
> ...


rob have you heard of this new thing called shingles! they make a roof water proof-lol.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Mower shed repair work*
> 
> In Dec 2013 and again in Aug 2014 I built two "Mower Sheds" from recycled materials.
> They all faired reasonably well and considering my construction skills at the time most of the weathering was attributed to poor design on my behalf in the first place.
> ...


Looks good Rob. I am guessing that the plywood is marine grade. Either way it seems to have held up very well.

My neighbour has a wooden plank roof that is still in great shape after 30 years. The wood is Fir. The boards run lengthwise side by side from the peak of the roof down to the eaves. A second layer of boards is oriented the same way and covers the seams in the first layer. The wood is laid with the small growth rings down to prevent concave cupping/cracking and the nails towards the outside edges keep the boards flat. The layer over the seams also keeps everything flat and waterproof. The cap along the roofline is two separate long pieces with one overlapping the top of the other one by about an inch and just nailed together. This arrangement works real well in our wet environment, but I'm not sure how it would do in Australia.


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *Mower shed repair work*
> 
> In Dec 2013 and again in Aug 2014 I built two "Mower Sheds" from recycled materials.
> They all faired reasonably well and considering my construction skills at the time most of the weathering was attributed to poor design on my behalf in the first place.
> ...





> ... cousin who lives in Parkes says it s been the driest year since he moved there in 1974
> - crowie


Know the feeling *crowie*... The local pub shut down for 2 weeks for repairs… driest period in Chuurchill since my move in 2010!



> I Love Parkes, *""The Dish""* will be dry.
> - anthm27


As long as "*the glass*" is full!



> rob have you heard of this new thing called *shingles*! they make a roof water proof-lol.
> - pottz


BUT they're bloody painfull… even without scraping your shins…


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Mower shed repair work*
> 
> In Dec 2013 and again in Aug 2014 I built two "Mower Sheds" from recycled materials.
> They all faired reasonably well and considering my construction skills at the time most of the weathering was attributed to poor design on my behalf in the first place.
> ...


CBHS is correctly Christian Brothers High School not the previous


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Mower shed repair work*
> 
> In Dec 2013 and again in Aug 2014 I built two "Mower Sheds" from recycled materials.
> They all faired reasonably well and considering my construction skills at the time most of the weathering was attributed to poor design on my behalf in the first place.
> ...


Shingles.
yes I have heard about shingles,
The timber variety Stefang refers to, not very common in Australia, they were originally hand split by craftsman.

yes the ply is marine grade or at the very least exterior.
Also the man made variety Pottz is mentioning. 
A lot of flat rooves were sheeted in the early days, problem was you could not walk on it without damaging it and causing a leak. I think it was called Malthoid or a name similar. The individual rubber composition ones are still popular from what I see.

Timber single feature houses are wasted here in Australia as in no time the sun has turned them grey or otherwise your UV finish re-treating them at least every 12 months to retain the original look.

That also includes the medical virus variety you refer to as well.

Also speaking of pubs I built a Pub in Oct 2012 a few years ago now, using wooden shingles on the roof it took me 6 hours all up.

May be I could relocate it to Churchill yippee yahoo. ( I wonder where it is today?)










The Dish.
Now the Dish is actually a tracking device of which was instrumental in providing communications in the early days of space exploration, there is a movie made about it is called strangly enough "The Dish" well worth watching if your into IT stuff and comms.


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## Boxguy (Mar 11, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Mower shed repair work*
> 
> In Dec 2013 and again in Aug 2014 I built two "Mower Sheds" from recycled materials.
> They all faired reasonably well and considering my construction skills at the time most of the weathering was attributed to poor design on my behalf in the first place.
> ...


Rob, I would have used recycled metal roofing in my area. Nice project.


----------

