# Is big box plywood okay for building furniture?



## LearningAsIGo

With the help of my boyfriend I'm planning on building a desk like this. When it comes to building things I would say that we are beginners. I'm not looking to build heirloom quality furniture, just trying to save some money. But I also don't want it to fall apart or warp after we spend time and money building it.

I have done some googling about big box plywood and came across some threads that say it is no good.

My Home Depot carries 3/4" oak ply for $44.97, it's stamped Bloomfield. Lowes has something called Arauco for $37. I have also found a few local lumber places. A 5×5 sheet of Baltic Birch with a grade of B/BB goes for $77.63. A 4×8 sheet of A1 Birch Natural is $90.60, plain sliced oak is $96.

I may need 3 sheets of 3/4" plywood to build this, not including drawer materials and other expenses. What do you think would be a cost effective yet quality choice? I'm planning on painting it if that makes a difference.

Is there anything in between not good ply from a big box store and $100+/sheet ply from a lumber yard?


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## superstretch

Welcome to LJ!

FYI, the link didn't work for me, so I'll repaste it here: http://www.potterybarn.com/products/bedford-corner-desk-set/

Are you planning on painting it? couldn't quite tell from your post. If that's the case, you might want to skip the oak/birch plywood and switch to a cheaper material, but still paint-grade. I've not had an issue with L/HD plywood before and have used it on several projects. With a decent skirt along the back and a leg in beg, you shouldn't have much flex at all with a 3/4 sheet.


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## timbrennan01824

I would look around a bit more for better pricing on the A1 nat birch ply. I'm in New England and a local lumberyard has that sheet for $67.95. And if you're going to paint it, they might have 'shop' grade and ours goes for $55 per sheet.

http://www.highlandhardwoods.com/price_lists/Plywood.pdf

Also, since you will paint it, some of the parts might be able to be MDF, too.


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## Bertha

I built a rapid-fire painted bed for an unexpected visit from family (shown below). I think I spent $80. I blasted it out in a weekend using big box plywood, wainscotting, fake wood trim, and fence posts (you can see them inverted LOL). If you woodfill any voids, sand, and prime the plywood before painting, you shouldn't have any problems; I didn't. It's not going to grace the cover of Fine Woodworking but it doesn't sound like that's what you're after. Good luck!


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## Loren

The reasons people say it is no good are because it sometimes 
warps and sometimes you may encounter voids or delaminations
within the plywood. If you're looking to save some money on personal
projects, these are not major problems, but for a pro situation
they are hassles not worth the savings.


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## Bertha

^I can't believe I just posted that on a woodworking site. Facepalm.


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## superstretch

Wow, Al, for a rush, $80 job, that's darn good. I think I might have un-inverted the posts tho ^_^

(Edited)


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## Bertha

Hey man, what's a poor lumberjock to do. That's an air mattress under that comforter


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## Bertha

What, stretch, you don't like my hillbilly claw feet? ^_^


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## superstretch

LOL just looks like they might punch holes through the floor. Although that's probably better than spearing someone through the abdominal area.


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## LearningAsIGo

Superstretch - I did mention that I will be painting the desk. What is a paint grade alternative to the oak plywood?

Tim - I'm in New England also. I know I could use MDF but I hate it because it's so heavy and creates so much dust.


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## brunob

I've had a couple of bad experiences with Big Box plywood. I now get all my plywood and my local lumber yard. It's worth the few extra bucks. If you're going to paint it, why not fir plywood?


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## timbrennan01824

You're in New England?! Great. I absolutely love Highland Hardwoods, especially as a newbie. Incredible inventory, great people, very well marked. No mysteries around board footage, s3s, etc. They even have short bins! I don't know exactly where you are, but it might be worth the trip for their paint grade birch ply. I used it for a recent corner cabinet that is 95% done… and will remain that way for a bit longer! : )


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## Sawkerf

Learning -

If you're painting the desk, you'll want to stay away from oak. Its grain will show thru the paint unless you go theu a very labor intensive effort to fill the pores and sand everything smooth. Way more trouble than its worth.

For paint grade work, I use either poplar or shop grade maple. Both work well and take paint well. Personally, I won't use big box ply on anything that has to look good. It's just too much hassle dealing with it.


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## Moellering

I would suggest looking to find some pre-built cabinets like what make the ends of the desk, then just go about making the top and attaching it. As another beginner, making things with drawers requires a fair bit of precision to get the cabinet and the drawers all square and true.


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## LearningAsIGo

I'm in Connecticut, it's about a 2 1/2 hr drive to Highland Hardwoods. I must be able to find something closer. I just did another google search and it looks like there is a place in CT that sells Baltic Birch for $65/sheet and paint grade maple for $60. I'll have to look into that further to see if their prices are up to date.

We actually did a window seat with drawers so I think we can do it. We have a table saw, Kreg Jig and a router.


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## Blondewood

If you are planning on painting it big box ply is fine. Check on the shop grade ply though at a lumber yard if you have one close. I got a nicer quality than the box store for box store price. IMHO I used it and white pine for my craft table/cabinet.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/39272


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## bb71

I made the mistake of using Home Depot (chinese) plywood for a builtin I did once. It was paint grade work. The plywood was paint grade maple. After two weeks of building I was doing final prep for priming. I noticed some of the ply had started to delaminate. I stopped working on it to see what would happen. After about 3 days, several areas of the plywood had delaminated so badly the the piece was junk. Needless to say, I don't mess with crappy chinese plywood from bog box store any more. I'll gladly spend the extra $20 / sheet. My customer wasn't happy when I told here I had to start again. My wife wasn't happy when I told her how much material money was going in the garbage. I wasn't happy with the lost labor. A lesson learned the hard way.


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## allmyfingers

had a customer last month ask for a copy of this exact desk. we decided on glued up poplar 5/4 instead of plywood for the top. paints well and easy on the router, no worries about delamination and integral edge detail instead of tacking it on.we found used file cabinets at a used office furniture dealer, high quality oak, took a repaint very well.


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## flybowman

I once attempted to build several kitchen cabinet carcasses with home depot birch plywood. We cut all the pieces one day and came back the next day to assemble and glue them. Every single board had warped dramaticly. Not sure if it happens everytime, but once was enough for me.


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## trainwreck

Using Ana White's plans? In my experience, though limited as it is, the big box plywood will work, but it will be no better than that Sauder particle board crap. You'll think everything is fine until you go to paint it, then you'll be cursing up a blue streak! I agree..spend the extra money for the good stuff from a lumber yard, at least for the plywood. Tell them what you're building and buy what they tell you! She says you can do it cheaper, and you can, but you even buying good plywood, you'll still come out ahead!


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## LearningAsIGo

For the most part I will be using Ana's plans with a few modifications.

Allmyfingers I'm curious to know about gluing up 5/4 board. What width did you use? And do you just need to use glue and clamps?


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## MOJOE

I've used HomeDepot birch on a crib and dresser for my son…...didn't have any trouble, just picked through the stacks a lot to find pieces that matched well and were in good shape. I would also suggest looking at the partial sheets if your plans will permit….sometimes the smaller sizes aren't warped as bad.


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