# Mortiser Falls Short on Key Features



## PurpLev

thanks for the review - sounds like you've had a full experience with the unit for better for worse. could use more reviews like this around here.

curious - just as an idea. how feasible would it be to take the mortiser (head+column) and install it on a shopmade table bypassing the metal base all together which will allow you to build a table with better support (larger area) + better clearance height wise (for 6" boards) and better holddowns+wheels +accessories?


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## pintodeluxe

I don't think it would be feasible for me to remount it. I did think about adding some Magswitch roller supports, but for the price I would just replace the unit with a Woodriver mortiser. I like the roller suports and expandable work supports on that model.


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## saucer

I bought my last Delta tool 3 years ago. I got tired of the power switch's going out. I like the Woodriver mortiser best.


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## StumpyNubs

I looked at the Delta. Then I went and spent $200 less on the Harbor Freight version. It may look like a piece of junk, but with a couple of homemade upgrades it is at least as good as the Delta.


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## renners

The only redeeming quality of my own bench top mortiser is it fits under the bench when not in use (50 weeks of the year). Unfortunately, bench top mortisers all have the same flaws. You can't compare them to a floor standing trade rated machine for hold down, travel etc. I ended up taking the back fence and hold down off mine altogether, and use a 2×2 held with g-cramps for the fence, and cramp the workpiece to that for the first cut. The chisel won't bind if you take a shallow cut first, then move along, cut same depth, move it back and go deeper, then repeat until you are at the right depth. Then you can take out the rest of the mortise, simply holding the workpiece down with your free hand. That way the chisel is only in contact on three sides and it's not as hard for it to come out. 
With regard to support, simply measure the base height and plane down pieces of timber to the same height and put them either side of the base, or use roller stands.

Just noticed your signature - saw Rush at their very first Dublin gig in May, awesome.


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## ArlinEastman

Well I guess I bought mine before I read this. It was brand new and the guy never took it out of the box that I could tell. I paid him $100 which included shipping. This is my first mortiser and did not know what to expect, but thinking that Delta made a good product.
Arlin


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## pintodeluxe

Renners - 
I see what you mean about plunging a shallow cut, continuing to the next cut, then returning later to achieve full depth. That seems like it could introduce errors in the cutline. I really expect more from a benchtop mortiser. The solution is simple - get a model with roller wheels. The stock has to be held down and into the fence to avoid binding. 
Cheers


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## superstretch

Well-timed review.. I'm looking at getting a mortiser in the next couple months. The Woodriver looks nice and has a lot of chisel/bit sets for $239 right now, but there's a Jet I'm eyeing on CL for $200 (negotiable price)... I've already mentally thrown out the Deltas now.


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## kincade

My Delta has had more than enough issues. I still use it but all of the tighteners have broken and have since replaced them with different knobs or vice grips. The cast pieces that the handle attaches to the machine with have broken and were replaced while under warranty. The down action is not smooth at all. It somehow has a catch own the middle as I force it down into the wood. You have to place the drill a good bit below the chisel end, so be careful you do not poke through the other side (it has happened). Like I said I still use it but I have learned my lesson. I have had this machine for over 6 or so years and many great projects were made from it.


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## pintodeluxe

Well, the mortiser has performed admirably on the last dozen projects. The bits don't stick much anymore, and the mortises are accurate. Maybe it just needed to be broken in. Perhaps I was too harsh with my initial review.


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## runswithscissors

I wanted the option of extra height for taller boards, but didn't want to lose the rack and pinion Y axis with the riser (which is 1 3/4" tall), so I cut part of the middle section away, drilled some holes, and installed an optional shaft that still allows the rack and pinion to function. When I was all done, I realized I could have simply sawed out a section of the middle, which would have been easier. Anyhow, this works. With the other mods I've done on the machine (gave it an X axis table, with Bessey self adjusting hold downs), I like it very much. Nothing has broken on this machine, by the way.


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## pintodeluxe

^ nice looking modification. The fact that the fence doesn't adjust with the riser block in place is a frustration for me. I am still not sure why Delta and other brands don't make the frame a few inches taller. It would sure be nice to mortise 6" wide boards, but I guess that is what floor standing mortisers are for.
Anyways it looks like a good modification to me. Does the 1/4" chisel reach all the way down to the table with the riser block installed? Do you keep the riser block on all the time?
Delta sells an extended rod for the workpiece hold-down, which would help when the riser block is in place (I know you have an X-Y table, but it might help someone who doesn't have that upgrade). I bought the longer rod for taller workpieces. 
Great mod, thanks for posting!


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## runswithscissors

Actually, I don't have the riser installed, and won't until the time comes that I need the extra height. I don't know whether the 1/4" chisel will reach all the way to the table with the riser block in place. I'll have to check that out. Of course, the chisel length limits the depth of the mortise in any case. For 3/4" material I prefer the 5/16" chisel. The mortise walls are still strong, and the tenon is stronger than a 1/4" tenon. I like that the Delta came with the 5/16" chisel. Not all included chisel sets do.

It just occurred to me that if I really needed more height, I could make a riser to fit on top of the riser. Maybe make it out of 3/4" aluminum, which I can get pretty easily. Might even have some.

Before I did my mod on the riser casting, I toyed with the idea of simply fabricating one out of steel. For example, a 6" wide piece of channel steel would be easy to do. Just drill the holes for the bolts and the pinion shaft. Of course, there'd need to be some sort of guide slot for the gear rack, but that wouldn't be hard to do. Okay, I admit it need a bit more thinking. Maybe the way I did it was the best, at least for now.


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