# Glue PVC to Wood



## geraldvg (Jul 5, 2013)

I'm in the midst of installing a PVC piped dust collection (DC) system and want to build most, if not all, of my blast gates using the appropriate (4" & 6" mostly) PVC pipe and/or couplings. Some of these I want to configure to mount directly on the tool being served. The question at-hand is, "What is the best and structurally strongest adhesive to use to bond PVC to wood?" I'm considering epoxy, polyurethane glue (Gorilla Glue), thick cyanoacrylate (Super Glue), and floor laying construction adhesive and plan to test all of them with small samples. At this point the construction adhesive idea is the most appealing because it's inexpensive, is easy to apply with a caulk gun, fills voids and has an attractive set-up time which should be minimally effected by the currently cold temperatures.

This article (http://www.benchmark.20m.com/articles/BlastGate/blastgatebuilding.html) describes the process in some detail.

I would appreciate the benefit of your experiences, knowledge, and suggestions.


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## 111 (Sep 2, 2013)

When you can buy them this cheap, why make them unless you just want to.
http://www.ptreeusa.com/blastgates.htm
http://www.amazon.com/WoodRiver-4-Aluminum-Blast-Gate/dp/B0035Y7D4E


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

Here are some gates I made:

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/41990


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

Most all of my gates are shop built using that design. But I didn't try to glue them. Instead I used sheet metal screws. 2 screws inside the opening of the PVC running into the pieces called "gate housing" is what holds mine in place. Is you use 1/2" screws and a ratchet with a short driver bit, it's not too bad on 4"...and a piece of cake on 6" (I used 3 screws on the 6" ones. Then I caulked the joint with silicone. I'm not sure if the construction adhesive will work as an adhesive ( I think it will work as a caulk). Finding anything to stick to PVC isn't easy, that's why they have that special plumbing adhesive to use. You might try that, to see if it will stick to wood. The shop built are clearly superior to the black plastic ones available. They will give you a full 4" opening, and no corners to clog. The aluminum ones are much better, but also more costly. I also screwed those 2 pieces called housing together, with wood screws. Using screws allows you some adjustment on the tightness of the sliding gate. Use a hand plane to make the fit tighter, or a piece of masking tape to loosen it up.


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## donbee (Feb 7, 2009)

Epoxy

db


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

I built adapters for some of my tools to attach a dust collector hose, where I used a small piece of plywood attached to the tool by a couple screws, with some weather stripping on the back. A short piece of PVC pipe is installed in a hole in the middle, adhered by 2 part epoxy around the circumference. I have done this several time successfully and have yet to experience a failure.


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## geraldvg (Jul 5, 2013)

Thanks for the replys, guys.

Kevin, I want to stay away from the clogging issues that go along with the non-through gates of most of the prefabricated blast gates, plastic and cast aluminum and the thru-gate types are more expensive than I'd like to pay. This and the 6" ones are both expensive and difficult to source. I haven't tried cutting off portions of the plastic ones (back corners or the whole back edge) to open escape routes for trapped dust/chips. My shop is a hobby and much of what I like to do most is work on the shop and improvements to it. That's why, when people ask me what I make, I tell them saw dust and wood chips. As I indicated earlier, I also want to build some of the blast gates onto the side of the tool it will serve and/or as an integral part of a fabricated shroud. So, if I'm going to be building some of my blast gates, I may as well build them all and still need to decide what glue will work best.

Loren, I like your pivoting gate idea and may incorporate a configuration like that overhead where I have three 6" main branches coming together, just ahead of the blower.


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

I've made PVC to plywood bonds using epoxy. The thing to keep in mind is to make the fit of the PVC in the plywood hole a tight fit Roughen up the PVC before gluing it. There is really no pressure on the joints, so just about any adhesive would work. You can drill some small holes through the end of the PVC and drive a small pin or nail through from the inside into the plywood.


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## 111 (Sep 2, 2013)

I understand Gerald, glad your able to do that.

Not trying to sell you on the plastic ones but I've used mine in my business shop meaning every day for >15 years and never have had any clogging problems. Just saying!

If I were going to make them, I would probably use 3/4" instead of 1/4" for the 7×7 fronts and backs, then I would screw the pvc pipe into them from the inside. ( I think like what Fred was saying)

Another idea would be to buy the cheap plastic blast gate and tear it in half, then attach each half to your plywood and use them just as the flange to attach your hose to.


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## geraldvg (Jul 5, 2013)

Good idea about attaching the PVC from the inside out into thicker front and back plate stock. May try that using pin nails and construction adhesive to fill any gaps.


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## 111 (Sep 2, 2013)

Here's my idea with the plastic blast gates - using each half, 
I hope you don't mind I'm just having fun with Sketchup, maybe something I would build if I got the chance.


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## geraldvg (Jul 5, 2013)

Looks like you've got a pretty good handle on Sketchup, Kevin. What I'm seeing in your drawing is the blue parts are from the cheap plastic blast gate and are used to create the hose connections. The green and red parts are fabricated. For my use, I'd prefer to see the gate (red part) be long enough to include the dust hole in one end and a solid section on the other and screws located to limit gate movement to full open in one direction and full closed in the other. Another option might be to make a fan or partial cresent shaped gate (see Loren's design) that pivoted about where the center of the storage slot is in your drawing. The fan would have a dust passage hole positioned on one side and be solid on the other. Either design should be self cleaning.


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## hydro (Aug 9, 2013)

You do not need to glue the blast gates to the PVC pipe. Just make the ferrules snug and put a screw or two in to hold them in place. Easy to do and easy to change later as inevitable.


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## 111 (Sep 2, 2013)

Well Then…..LOL


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## GarryP (Sep 14, 2013)

Here's another idea for shop made blast gates.

I doubled the 1/2" plywood with a collar for gluing the PVC. I used the plumbers PVC glue applied liberally to the PVC and the wood. It seems to be holding up although I haven't tried to destructuively test them to see how much they can take.


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## geraldvg (Jul 5, 2013)

You've got it, Kevin. Now where's one with the fan type blade?


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## changeoffocus (Dec 21, 2013)

I have tried gluing PVC to many types of materials with little success. I too am working on a dust collection for my shop using PVC-DWV schedule 40 pipe. I use a multitude of parts to do the work including cutting short pieces of pipe and then cut down the circumference so I can get a solvent weld. The pipe can also be welded with a special heat type gun. 
In the case of your blast gates I would construct a wood valve body be sandwiching two pieces of wood with a sheet metal slide gate much like the one the gentleman rendered in sketch-up. I would the screw closet (toilet)flanges to each side of the wood body.
You then can go to standard solvent welded joints. 
I've also used Fernco rubber fittings for some applications.
I've been in the piping industry for 48 years so I think I'm giving you a valid solution. 
Good luck.


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## geraldvg (Jul 5, 2013)

FWARMC, I also plan to use some of the rubber plumbing line fittings where necessary to mate up to some odd sized equipment ports and am thinking about the possibility of using metal gates, although cutting clean 4 and 6 inch holes would be problematic for me. Kind of liking using thicker body parts with the S&D PVC pin nailed or screwed from the inside and construction adhesive to reinforce & fill. Now I just need some warm weather so that I can experiment a little.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

I should have mentioned with my screw suggestion that my housing pieces are made of 3/4" plywood.


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## changeoffocus (Dec 21, 2013)

Gerald,
Attached is a 4×3 reducing version of what I was explaining, they come in 4" as well. The material you use for the knife of your valve should not make a difference. 
FYI, since my shop is small I'm only installing a 4" trunk line with 4×3 wyes as outlets. My plan is to assemble some manner of adapter to create a female opening on the ID of the 3" outlets so I can plug in various pieces of equipment. Any outlet that is not in use will have a 3" Fernco cap on the pipe OD. I feel it will need no clamp as the vacuum will seal it. I also plan to use the DC as vacuum only with small separating cyclones on the hook up hose assembly. 
Hope this helps, I'll keep a watch on this and add anything that may be of help. 
It was 6F this morning so I'll not be any help with the weather. 
Bob


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## geraldvg (Jul 5, 2013)

I'm somewhat more familiar with toilet flanges than I'd prefer to be, Bob. Happens when you're a DIYer. 

Mid-20's and windy here this morning, so this will not be a good "shop" day for me either. (Hate it when my fingers stick to my TS top.) I've already gathered a pretty good supply of PVC S&D pipe and fittings (4" & 6") and spent the day Thursday at Grizzly - Springfield selecting DC fittings for the various tool hook-ups. I'll pick up rubber boot fittings at Lowe's/Home Depot and additional PVC fittings, as I need them. I'll almost certainly need some pieces that I forgot, but what I need most now is weather and time to work. There's just so much progress you can make on paper before you need to actually start putting things together. I'll post progress as I'm able.

BTW, has anyone figured a safe way to make good, clean cuts on 6" PVC pipe and fittings? I'm thinking about trying my chainsaw, but I don't like the kerf loss when cutting fittings and angle control would be something of an issue.

Got your note, Jerry. You anywhere near Bull Shoals Lake?


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## 111 (Sep 2, 2013)

How much do they cost $$$.


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## changeoffocus (Dec 21, 2013)

Gerald, 
I've used my power miter saw for years for this purpose, I'm sure it will make the fine wood workers cringe but the precision cut makes it worthwhile. 
Kevin,
I'd say those closet flanges are a few bucks but I happen to know where I can get all the plastic fittings I want by just looking through the boxes returned from projects. Unfair advantage yes, but everyone has one or two of these. 
This better explains why I choose PVC over the thin black pipe and fittings that never seem to mate in a structurally sound manner.


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## donbee (Feb 7, 2009)

I like my band saw for cutting all sizes of PVC.

D


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

I've cut it on the bandsaw, and prefer that. But if you're cutting a 10' piece in 1/2, it doesn't do so well. Then I pull out the sabre saw. The trick to using it is to mark a stright line aorund the pipe first, then try to follow it. To mark a straight line, you can use a piece of paper. Just wrap it as far around the pipe as it will go and eyeball it to get it straight. Then trace one edge with a magic marker.


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## geraldvg (Jul 5, 2013)

I've been using my 12" miter saw to cut PVC, as well, but it will not cut the 6" in one pass. The bandsaw doesn't work for me except when cutting shorter pieces off already short pieces. Even the throat of my old 20" Rockwell isn't deep enough for cutting anything but fittings and nipples off already short lengths of pipe. I find that I can clean up the rough ends pretty well on a 6" belt sander. Just have to be careful not to get the PVC too hot.

Fred, an old, broken sanding belt or a piece of butcher paper works well for your circumference marking trick. Just match up the edges where they meet and use a Sharpee marker.

Kevin, how much to the what cost? Toilet flanges? Haven't checked those yet. The all PVC ones shouldn't be too much.

Off to wood turners club meeting with my brother.


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## 111 (Sep 2, 2013)

Gerald, I was wondering about the cost of the toilet flanges. Looks like they would work pretty good. The cheapest I saw when I Googled it was about 6-7 bucks each.


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## changeoffocus (Dec 21, 2013)

Ken, 
I tried to answer your question in my reply to Gerald, they are probably in that range retail. 
I looked at the link that Gerald had on the valves and that guy's web site is pure elegance. 
I could live with his solution.


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## geraldvg (Jul 5, 2013)

I got a nice and very prompt response and to my question to the Gorilla Glue people. Here is what they said:

Dear Gerald,

Thank you for contacting The Gorilla Glue Company. We have built our family owned business on the honest belief in our products and a desire to provide the best customer service possible.

Gorilla Glue will work on a pvc to wood application as long as: your two surfaces are tight fitting, there is no paint or stain on your wood, take the time to lightly scratch up your surfaces first, and follow the standard directions of "Damp It", "Glue It", and "Clamp It".

Gorilla Glue is a moisture activated, foaming and expanding glue designed to glue two tight fitting surfaces together. If your surfaces are not tight fitting, the Gorilla Glue will foam, expand and fill the space. But it will only fill it cosmetically, not structurally. Gorilla Glue cannot be used as a filler or a sealer. If your surfaces are not tight fitting, you will need to use an epoxy.

I hope this information is helpful and again, thank you for contacting us. If you have any additional questions or comments, please let us know by e-mail or by phone at 1-800-966-3458 Monday-Friday from 8:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. Eastern Time.

Sincerely,

Mary Ellen
Customer Support Representative

*Bought a bottle yesterday to try.* Probably going to have to wait a few days since our high tomorrow is forecast to be 27 degrees F.


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

*Kevin*, you must be a good Sketchup user as those are beautiful models.


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## JasonWhite (Mar 4, 2009)

Gorilla Glue works great on PVC! I've glued 4" schedule-20 pipe to plastic blast gates with it. Joints are airtight and won't ever come apart because the glue expands as it cures. Perfect choice!

- Jason


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Elmers has a new glue that will bond most anything to wood.

Also this:
http://thistothat.com/


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## comboprof (Aug 26, 2013)

After first roughing up the PVC I used the Gorilla brand Super Glue and it holds fine.

As concerns the cheap plastic gates (which I bought for twice the price from woodcraft, then the price given in the link provided by KevinJeffery) they all fell apart. I re-glued them using epoxy and they now are fine.

The truth about 4" PVC and duct collection blast gates or connectors is that no two connectors fit together and it is nightmare. So you have to be creative. I used a craft foam and duct tape to fill the gaps. (Problem with this is the foam and duct tape become slippery when coated with saw dust. So you need to put in machine screws.) Hence building your own blast gates and ports tailored to fit your hoses, PVC and tools is not a bad idea.

It has just warmed up to 0 degrees F so I too will not be of any help on the weather.

I used my table saw and miter saw to cut 4" PVC I then bought new saw blades. So put on an old blade. You can cut 6" PVC on a table saw by rotating the tube into the saw. Draw a line around the tube first. I wrapped a short thin bungie cord around the PVC and a sharpie to mark and draw the line. With the line you can use the table saw or any handsaw or even nylon string (google how to cut PVC with nylon string) and get a fairly straight cut.

I used a belt sander to even things out and a knife to remove the then melted edge.


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