# Safety tips for a first time table saw owner



## Purrmaster (Sep 1, 2012)

Greetings,

My parents very kindly got me the Ridgid R5412 table saw for Christmas. This is my first table saw. I've never even used a table saw before. Naturally I wish to keep all of my digits intact. And not destroy the saw.

So I'm soliciting for safety information from those more experienced. What sorts of things should I do (or perhaps more importantly NOT do)? What kind of safety equipment should I get? The saw came with a push stick and I have two push blocks I got for my jointer. But what else? I don't know what a featherboard is, for example.

Thanks.


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

work your way thru this purr

http://lumberjocks.com/search_results?cx=016283335483199634424%3A4na88symhay&cof=FORID%3A9&safe=high&q=tablesaw+safety&sa.x=9&sa.y=10

like driving

don't just gun it and go


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## Tedstor (Mar 12, 2011)

Your public library likely has several books on tablesaws. Mine does- and I used them to learn how to safely handle a TS. Heck, I didn't even know what "kickback" was until I read the books. Glad I didn't skip that chapter. LOL. 
Seriously though. A qualified shop teacher or cabinetmaker wouold be the best source to learn from. But since such people can be hard to find for such a remedial lesson, a well-written/illustrated book is a reasonable second-best. Buying a well-reviewed book from Amazon might be a good investment and could be had for $10 or less. 
Also
Do you have an owner's manual? Some manuals do a reasonable job covering the VERY basic operations of a TS.


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## americancanuck (Apr 4, 2011)

You must have very nice parents. If it wasn't for the fact that I got my Rigid4512 about 2 years ago I would ask them to adopt me. I found that the push stick that comes with the saw is awkward and hard to use. purchase or make more. The most important safety rule is to respect the tool.


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## toddbeaulieu (Mar 5, 2010)

Watch a lot of videos. Read a lot of articles and books. And BE CAREFUL!

I've had a few close calls now and they were all from being STUPID.

I ran a small piece of plywood through and then decided it would be OK to bring it back towards me. The saw caught it and spit it up and then drew it back at me (walking across the surface). It nailed me 1" from my business and left me on the floor for a good 2-3 minutes before deciding to try to stand. I had nice coloration from that one.

I was ripping heavy, SPLIT oak boards that had a lot of tension. A large "spear sized" chunk fell off and onto the blade, making it "spear acting", hitting me in the hip.

I had another kickback that I can't remember the details about, but kickback is a monster that you need to do everything you can to prevent.

Enjoy your saw!


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## WDHLT15 (Aug 15, 2011)

Do not stand directly behind the blade. Stand off to one side. If you are ripping a board and if the board past the saw cut begins to pinch, stop and put a screwdriver in the kerf to open it back up. If the kerf pinches, the board can ride up on the blade, and the blade will throw the board straight back at hundreds of miles per hour. This can hurt you very bad. This situation can also jerk your hand into the blade where very, very bad things happen.

Some people like to have their blade height just above the top of the board. This makes it safer from the standpoint of getting your hand or fingers in the blade. However, that also makes it much easier for the board to ride up and the teeth get under the board whereby the board becomes a dangerous missile.

Kickback is a serious issue and occurs when the teeth of the blade get under the board and hurl it back. Most people do not just stick their hand in the blade. Kickback pulls or jerks it in. Preventing kickback is the safest thing that you can do. Understand how to prevent it. Make some extra push sticks. I generally use two when ripping. One to hold the end down and push, and another to keep the board tight to the fence.

A sharp blade is also safer than a dull one. If the blade is not cutting easy, change it out.


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## MedicKen (Dec 2, 2008)

LIke Norm says, " Read, understand and follow all of the safety rules that come with your power tools." There is no reason to be afraid of any power tool but they do garner some respect. The table saw can change your life in the blink of an eye, and even take one out. One of the biggest mistakes I see new woodworkers make is cutting at too slow or too fast of a pace. Jamming a piece of lumber into a blade that is spinning towards you is asking for disaster. Too slow and the blade will burn the wood and increase your chance of a kick back. Use push sticks that keep your hands away from the blade and use a guard, splitter or riving knife as much as possible. NO long sleeves, long hair or jewelry that could possibly get caught in the blade. Most of all use common sense, if it doesnt feel safe, it probably isnt.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

Using a sharp blade that's the correct blade for the task makes the TS easier and safer to use. 
Tips for picking a saw blade

Keeping the surface waxed allows the workpiece to slide more easily, and cutting flat straight wood is makes the cut more predictable.


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## teejk (Jan 19, 2011)

I'm betting that in this day and age, your owner's manual is going to be 200 pages long, 180 of which are going to discuss safety (and may conclude that you never turn it on).


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## allwood (Jun 23, 2012)

When I went school yrs ago for cabinetmaking, we were shown some safety videos that made many a student cringe and to this day my power tools make me think twice about the operations I perform on them. Use common sense, if it doesn't feel safe, don't do it. Always pay attention to what your doing and always keep your body to the side of the blade, not in line with it. Reading books is always a great source of info, as is the LJ site, tons of help and info here. Safe and happy woodworking.


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## Planeman40 (Nov 3, 2010)

I'll add to the above . . .

Make yourself some good push-sticks and jigs for various types of cutting. These hold the work and keep your hands and fingers away from the blade.

Another thing is to always know where your hands and fingers are in relation to the blade. Most accidents happen when a finger drags across a blade. Over time it will become a habit to move your hands, arms and fingers in a way to stay clear of the blade. *Develop these "automatic" movements and subconscious awareness* so you always keep clear of the blade.

Planeman


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

Don not under any circumstances when making a through cut use the miter gauge and the rip fence at the same time. Learn about zero clearance inserts and make several for your saw. Get several feather boards and use them.


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

and most of all:
DO NOT REMOVE BLADE GUARDS, ETC. unless making such cuts as prevent the use of said guard (dado, rabets, etc.).
Google can be your friend when it come to seeing proper saw use.
I know that there are those who don't use all the safety stuff, but it is there for a reason.
I'm a woose, but I still have all ten (so far).
Good luck, and be safe.
Bill


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## NiteWalker (May 7, 2011)

Grab this book, read it all the way through, especially the safety and tuning sections. And even though the video is older, it's still an excellent resource.


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## Earlextech (Jan 13, 2011)

Maybe you can get your parents to buy Tage Frid's Woodworking Trilogy for your birthday. Google it.

I'll start you off with some basic rules -

#1 - stand centered on the board between the blade and the fence

#2 - never switch push sticks during a cut, never use two at the same time

#3 - anything left of the blade will fall away without your help or anyone else's, don't touch it until the blade stops

#4 - never let anyone else touch the saw or the board while the blade is moving

#5 - always look at the board touching the fence, make sure it stays against the fence, you don't need to look at the blade

#6 - until you know the rules, don't break any of them


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## sixstring (Apr 4, 2012)

I'd suggest taking a basic woodworking class, maybe at your local college? I've used table saws before, but didnt have experience with other tools like routers, jointers, planers, etc… I took a 10 week course (just 1 day a week) and while learning woodworking basics, dos and donts, the most valuable part of the class was having an experienced group of woodworkers to talk to and ask questions… Especially regarding the equipment and best practices. I also managed to score my own cabinet table saw from the school since they had upgraded to the Sawstops. Got a steal of a deal there. I highly recommend considering it…

Research, learn, and get to working.


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## Purrmaster (Sep 1, 2012)

Thanks folks, for the responses. I'm still unclear what a featherboard is. Also, from what I've read it's common for table saw owners to leave the blade guard off all of the time.


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## teejk (Jan 19, 2011)

purrmaster…google featherboard and you'll see it.

http://woodworking.about.com/od/gettingstarted/qt/UseFeatherboard.htm

clamped to a table and/or a fence, they are a very effective means of holding a piece against the fence and/or flat on the table.

notice: #1 the angle and #2 the "fingers". Properly set-up they can greatly reduce kick-back plus they help in many operations (you only have 2 hands and should be paying attention to where your hands are…featherboards serve as extra hands).

As long as I'm on it, I hate when somebody tries to "help" on the backside of the saw. NOBODY should stand there plus you have to control the cut from your side.

And finally, make sure you have your OFF switch visible at all times and don't be afraid to use it.


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## sixstring (Apr 4, 2012)

While you can also build your own featherboard, I picked up one of these at Rockler last week. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=19488&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PLA&gclid=CKbb77S3u7QCFal_Qgodw2IA3Q The featherboard lets you run wood through your table saw (or other tools like a router table) while keeping steady pressure against the fence. In my case, it lets me safely rip long, large, or very thin boards.

If there is a Rockler woodworking store nearby, and they are like the one by my place, they offer free classes from time to time on popular woodworking/power tools. Home Depot does it now and again too. Otherwise… Google and Youtube can be your best friends and make for reasonable instructors.

While I cant suggest using your saw without the guard… I can say that I dont use it myself as it can be cumbersome. One thing to keep in mind is NOT to rely on safety devices to keep you safe. Be attentive and focused on what you are doing at all times. A healthy dose of fear and respect should be applied at all times around power tools. It never gets less scary… You just get more confident… and that's still no guarantee.


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

Never take your eyes off your fingers and your work. I work at a hospital. It's #1 for emergency room visits from woodworkers.


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## 280305 (Sep 28, 2008)

I agree with some earlier posts about the value of taking a class. There is nothing like getting the immediate feedback from an experienced table saw user. It is also very helpful to see the tips and suggestions that the instructor gives to the other students.

I've never taken a Woodcraft class. However, there are two three-hour classes titled "Get The Most Out Of Your Table Saw" being offered at the Woodcraft of Portland, OR:
http://www.woodcraft.com/stores/storeclasses.aspx?id=312&page=classes


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## teejk (Jan 19, 2011)

Sixstring…so many of us own older saws and there are probably a few like me that find them to do more harm than good. I think the newer saws have better safety guards (was a premptive strike against a total Sawstop mandate).

So for a new user I think I would say to leave it on until he figures out whether it works or not. If it does, then use it.

And Monte…eyes on the operation at all times! I had 1,000's of cuts on my saw but one day I took my eyes off (to reach for a push-stick no less!!!). I didn't have to cut finger nails for months (I was lucky).


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## stonedlion (Jan 12, 2011)

Lots of good info above - I strongly recommend the use of push sticks and feather-boards. I like the Ultra Push-Bloc too.

Maintain a healthy respect for the amount of damage a spinning blade can do in a blink of an eye and always think about your cut before you start. I always take a moment to consider how I am going to maintain positive control of my workpiece without placing myself in harm's way.

And for the love of all things holy, do not stand directly behind your workpiece, because sooner or later (probably sooner) *you will have a kickback*. Even experienced woodworkers can and do get them. Where you are standing, what safety equipment is in use and what's in or not in your hand can make the difference between a scare or a trip to the E.R.


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## sixstring (Apr 4, 2012)

When placing your table saw in the shop/garage, dont put anything valuable or breakable behind the saw. The wall behind my saw already has a few nasty dings and gouges from kickback occurrences over the last year. I've had 2 doozies that could have impaled me if I wasnt standing off to the side. It's a humbling moment, and one to be learned from. Respect the tools always.


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## aaroncgi (Dec 27, 2012)

Congratulations on the new saw! I'm also the happy recipient of an R4512 for Christmas, thanks to my awesome wife. I'm still working on getting it assembled.

I am also a first time table saw user, though have used many other power tools (primarily handheld) for a couple decades. Stationary tools, excepting the drill press and miter saw, have always scared me a bit. I think it's the idea that the position of your hands with respect to the cutting implement is always changing. With a handheld power tool or tool with a moving head, the position of your hands is always a fixed distance away from the business end of the tool. Anyway, I've been reading up on safety all year since my wife announced many months ago this would be my Christmas present. 

I see some conflicting information in this post. One person says stand centered on the workpiece between the blade and fence. Others say never stand directly behind the work piece, in case there's a kickback. The latter seems more logical to me.

I have read through most of the R4512 manual, and one thing struck me. It says to only use the riving knife in the riving knife position for non-through cuts (ie dados, rabbets, etc). For all through cuts, it says use the riving knife in the splitter position, which puts the knife what appears to be a couple inches above the blade, instead of maybe 1/2" below the blade. I was under the impression that a riving knife was better than a splitter. All else being equal, which in this case it must be, is the sole reason for the riving knife being superior that it can remain on for non-through cuts? Is there any benefit to it being below the top of the blade for through cuts? One thing that comes to mind for me is that the splitter position wouldn't allow use of the GRR-rippers or similar devices. I have a pair of these on order and do plan to use them when needed.

I'm a bit leery of using the standard guard and anti-kickback pawls for ripping a long narrow piece of wood, say a 7' long 1×4 down to 1×3. It seems like the GRR-rippers would be much safer in that situation - easier to control the piece and keep it against the fence. But of course, the saw manual will tell you to never remove the guard, spreader, and pawls, for a through cut. I have a Skil flooring saw that's sort of like a mini sliding miter saw which can lock for ripping. While performing a similar ripping operation did work with just the guard, pawls, and push stick, it was not easy to to keep the piece against the fence.


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## mrg (Mar 10, 2010)

Purrmaster,

I just went online to check to see if there was a Woodcraft by you. In Portland they are having a table saw class in February. I checked out the one at the Woodcraft I go to and it was worth the money, the instructor taught you technique, explained the different types of blades, some maintenance and other things that you should know. It was great as a refresher. The class size is small and each person had a different level of experience.


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## Kroden (Apr 23, 2012)

I got a R4512 myself about 6 months ago. Just a few points based on my experience:

1.) When you go to turn off the power switch, make sure you swat it pretty good. If you tap it too lightly it'll cut the power for a split second, and than snap back into the On position.

2.) Make sure the riving knife is adjusted properly and perfectly aligned with the blade. Mine came setup so it was leaning to the right a couple degrees. It was off enough to allow a board to get caught on it.

3.) The push stick that came with it is not exactly "safe". I made myself a larger style push stick which a long base on it so I don't need to balance it at just the right angle like the included one. You can buy them or make them out of plywood.

4.) Make an outfeed table or get a couple rollers behind the saw. You don't want longer boards to start falling in the middle of a cut.

5.) This is minor, but be careful when releasing the riving knife locking lever. You need to lift it upward, and it doesn't like to move sometimes. If you pull really hard, it'll release quickly and you'll smack your knuckles on the bottom of the cast iron top.

I'd recommend for your first project, making a cross-cut sled. It'll be incredibly valuable as you do other projects, and also improve safety.


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## aaroncgi (Dec 27, 2012)

Speaking of the riving knife, is the one that comes with the R4512 suitable for use with a thin-kerf blade, like the CMT P10050? I couldn't find anything in the manual showing the width of the riving knife. Nor could I find the thickness of the P10050 at Lowe's or CMT's site.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_103024-10314-P10050_4294707846__?productId=3087589&Ns=p_product_avg_rating|1&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_avg_rating|1&facetInfo=&state=R

Edit, my bad, found the P10050 width at CMT, it's 0.098". I'm loving all these safety tips!


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## Kroden (Apr 23, 2012)

Calipers say 0.092" for the riving knife.


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## aaroncgi (Dec 27, 2012)

Great, thanks!


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## TedW (May 6, 2012)

Besides the obvious, like don't stick your fingers in the blade, or your forehead… the two biggest issues are both related to kick back. In one case it happens when you're cutting a piece of wood and it has stress within, that causes it to pinch between the fence and the blade. The other is when the back of the blade picks up the wood, causing the top of the blade to throw it back at you. In the first instance, just be wary when you see the curf starting to close, or open wider, as you cut the piece. That tells you there is hidden stress in the board and it may pinch the blade and cause kick back. The other is if the wood is allowed to lift up. You don't want to allow that top happen. I generally set the blade at least an inch above the top surface of the wood that I am cutting. If I'm cutting something 3/4" thick, I tend to set the blade 1-3/4 high. Needless to say, twisting the board while cutting it is a really bad idea.

Oh, and don't forget them safety glasses. Never even turn the saw on until your eyes are protected.


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## NiteWalker (May 7, 2011)

I never use a blade guard, but a splitter is an absolute must. Never is my saw without one.


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## teejk (Jan 19, 2011)

if I might just add a note so that he doesn't pack it up and buy a chess board, there have been millions of table saws made. they can be (and usually are) a very safe tool to use (I'll start a fight here by saying much safer than the radial arm saw that was my primary tool for years).

so we inject more fear than you need…realize that we tend to err on the side of caution…like I said above, I ran 1,000's of cuts through mine before I did something stupid.

familiarity breeds complancency…I'd guess that most people that have been hurt can blame that.


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## Johnnn (Sep 21, 2012)

The first thing I did when I got my first tablesaw was adjust everything, like making sure the splitter was aligned properly, and then I made a couple of featherboards from hemlock 1×4. I still use one of those featherboards 14 years later, and I gave the other to a friend. It was good practice using the fence adjustments and miter gauge.

I think the #1 piece of advice I'd give for a ts newbie is not to use your hand to do something if there's another option. Push sticks and jigs are your friend, and the fewer things you have to think about (like holding the work against the fence when a featherboard will do it) means you can concentrate on the important stuff and have choices about where you stand. Yeah, it takes a little more time and fiddling around to set up, but you'll get better results and lower your risk.

Multnomah Co. Library has several good books, including the Kelly Mehler one recommended above. They also have at least one DVD. You'll get good safety information, plus lots of plans for jigs and things, including the apparently elusive featherboard.


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## Purrmaster (Sep 1, 2012)

Thanks guys. This helps a ton. A few more questions if I may, mostly related to this particular saw.

I can't seem to get the anti-kickback pawls installed. At least not in the way the instructions say to do so. I'm not even sure how the things work. I was under the impression the splitter is the main guard against kickback.

This is hard to explain via writing but the instructions and the picture on the guard show the metal "arms" of the guard being almost flat to the table. However, after fiddling with it for over an hour I physically can't get that to happen. The arms are pointing upwards at an angle. The plastic parts of the guard seem to be flush with the table. My understanding about the blade guard is it mostly protects you if you fall onto the blade. You'll fall onto the guard instead of the blade. I could easily be wrong.

Also, the splitter/riving knife. I've put the lever in the upright position and the downward position. I notice no difference at all except the splitter gets wobbly when the lever is pushed up. The splitter isn't going up or down.

I guess I'm also concerned about the splitter not being compatible with thin kerf blades. I just picked up a Freud thin kerf ripping blade. The LM75R010 to be exact. I'm hoping the blade won't be too thin for the splitter. I got this blade because I read that for "underpowered" saws Freud's thin kerf blades worked well. As in, it may actually be a safer blade to use because I won't have to shove hard on the wood to get it through the blade.

At least at first I'd like to get all of the safety equipment on it, especially the blade guard.

I picked up a couple of push sticks at Woodcrafters in Portland (not related to Woodcraft) and a featherboard. Unfortunately the featherboard doesn't fit the miter slots in the saw so it's basically useless. The Bench Dog one sounds like it's worth looking into. I already have a couple of their push blocks for my jointer (and they really are nice push blocks).

The push sticks I got seem awfully short. I'll probably try and make a longer one. I was thinking of embedding some magnets in it as I've heard that can be helpful.

I assume I would stick a featherboard in the miter slots for holding things horiizontally. But what about vertically? As far as I can tell there are no miter slot like things in the rip fence for mounting a featherboard to. I don't have rollers or any way to support boards as they come off the blade. Therefore I am especially eager to find a featherboard that can hold the work piece down flat to the table.

The instructions have surprisingly little information about how to adjust and use the safety features. I'm a little surprised it didn't come with a short DVD, like my WS3000 did.

The drill press doesn't scare me because I think I'd have to work hard to get hurt with that thing. The miter saw still gives me the willies on occasion.

I haven't even turned the saw on yet. I want to make adjustments first. For one thing, I'm pretty sure the blade bevel scale is inaccurate.

Lastly, how close should my fingers ever get to the blade? My preference would be "as far away as possible." But I've seen pictures and videos that show people getting their fingers within a couple of inches of the blade for some cuts. I don't like that idea very much. I'm concerned that the blade might pull in the board and my fingers with it.

I don't want to be afraid to use the tool. But I'd like to die old and gray with all of my limbs and fingers intact.


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## Austons_Garage (Nov 3, 2012)

I'd preface by saying I'm not always the safest, and I actively take measures to mitigate those shortcomings.

This always sounds asinine but the first tip is to respect the spinning metal thing. Aside from the safety equipment and procedures you'll find in spades remember that no cut is worth your fingers. A lot of accidents happen fast, but I feel like forcing a cut is the root cause. You can buy new wood, new blades, patch walls, but you can't grow new fingers man.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

*"I just picked up a Freud thin kerf ripping blade. The LM75R010 to be exact. I'm hoping the blade won't be too thin for the splitter. I got this blade because I read that for "underpowered" saws Freud's thin kerf blades worked well. As in, it may actually be a safer blade to use because I won't have to shove hard on the wood to get it through the blade."*

The LM75 is only intended for ripping operations in 1" material or less. Since it's designed as "glue line ripper", it doesn't do well in thick stock, being more prone to bogging and burning, which means you will be shoving harder to cut thicker materials, so you may still need a 24T ripper for thicker rips. The LM75 isn't recommended for crosscuts either, being more prone to tearout, so you'll need a blade for crosscuts. The LM75 does indeed leave a glue ready cut in 1" material or less as advertised, but so do many other blades….it's not a trait exclusive to that blade. I can't help but think that a more versatile blade like the LU86, LU83, or P410 would be a better choice for overall use….or a pair of dedicated blades like a 24T LU87 for ripping and a 60T LU88 for crosscuts/ply.


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## shelly_b (Aug 8, 2012)

I took a 6 part class at woodcraft. It was every sunday and it taught the basics and gave me a chance to use all the tools that I had never used before. It was really helpful, and fun to use top of the line equipment lol. So far all of my blood stains on the floor are from changing blades and having the wrench slip….and i was waxing my table saw and caught a finger under the anti-kick back pawls lol. But I have had a board kick back once. It was definately scary! my biggest advice would be use your riving guard and anti-kick back pawls. DO NOT remove them!! 
I was putting a chamfer on 1×1 peice of oak that was about 15-30in long. It was about #70 out of 100, so it was getting very tedious lol. Like someone above said not to, I was using a push stick in my right to push it through, and one in my left to push it down so it wouldn't ride up. I was getting to the end of the cut and heard a loud pop and after wondering what happened for a few seconds I realized I no longer had the push stick in my right hand. Apparently I had touche the back of the blade when finished the cut and was pulling my hand back. It hit me in the chest and bounced off of me about 15ft across the garage. I am just really glad it didn't hit me in the face b/c I was not wearing goggles. I was thinking before I made my first cut, this isn't safe. But I did not have any other way to make the chamfer…so i was REALLY careful when I finished the rest of them lol. 
If anything hits the back of the blade….it's bad! your riving knife and anti-kicks can help prevent that! If you can take a class that would be best. If you have a woodcraft near, check into them. They have their classes listed on line. Good luck and be careful!!


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## aaroncgi (Dec 27, 2012)

FYI, I pulled the riving knife off my R4512. It took a while to find as it was already preinstalled on the saw, not loose in the box with most of the other parts! To answer the question about it not changing position when the lever is unlocked, here's how it works. You have to physically pull the knife up or push it down after the lever is unlocked, then move the lever back to lock it in the new position.

I'm not sure if the same is true for all current R4512, but here's what mine says on the riving knife:

RK Thickness .090" (2.3mm)

and on the other side:

Blade Body .060" - .086" (1.5mm - 2.2mm)
Blade Kerf .094" - .126" (2.4mm - 3.2mm)


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## MedicKen (Dec 2, 2008)

Do not have the table saw running on the same circuit as the lighting. If for some reason the breaker trips due to an overload the last thing you want is to be plunged into darkness with a 40-60 tooth blade turning toward you at 3600 rpm and a piece of lumber in said blade. If you dont have it, install a separate circuit and dedicate it for the saw.


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## Earlextech (Jan 13, 2011)

I will clarify - If you stand at an angle to the board you are cutting you will most certainly cause a kick back. Stand square and true to the board, with authority you can control the board better. Going into the cut as if you will get a kick back and standing off to the side to avoid being hit by it, will almost certainly cause a problem. Don't be scared, be careful and always wear eye protection.


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## teejk (Jan 19, 2011)

ok Purrmaster…someone that owns the saw is going to have to chime in about your anti-kick back prawls…mine (Delta saw) are integrated with the blade guard/splitter. picture a sandwich…splitter in line with the blade, prawls on both sides…prawls should be spring loaded and only permit you to push a piece forward…try to back it up and the teeth on the prawls should prevent it.

with a sharp blade and a fence set-up parallel to the blade, 2" rips don't bother me. narower than that I start to sweat and make sure I have a push-stick handy. In all cases keep your eye on the blade and your work and your off switch.

featherboards…welcome to "quick clamps". if you don't own any, you will. your vertical feather can clamp to the fence. horizontal I use my home-mades.

your comments on the drill press…wood is generally no problem but put a piece of unsecured steel on that and write back about having to work hard about getting hurt (don't ask how I know that). read above about "quick clamps".


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## Purrmaster (Sep 1, 2012)

As far as the Freud blade goes… I was thinking of picking up one of the Diablo blades for ripping larger stock. The saw came with a general purpose blade and I've got another general purpose blade that came with my miter saw and another one from Harbor Freight (the titanium nitride coated one, it works better than you might think). I'm usually (not always, but usually) working with stock that is 1 inch to 3/4 inch thick.

I'll use the saw for crosscuts as well, I'm sure, but I have a sliding compound miter saw that I'll use primarily for crosscuts.

Forgive me if I seem dense but… should I stand to the side and push the wood through the blade with push sticks? Or will that cause kick back? Or should I do it from the back of the saw where I can push it in straight?

My understanding is that no matter what equipment you have on the saw and no matter how careful you are kick back will happen at some time. I'd rather be to the side and have the board imbed itself into the wall rather than at the rear and have it embed itself into me.


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## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

Keep a sharp blade. I prefer the Freud thin kerf models, less kickback and smoother cuts with less waste. 
Don't force anything, line up the cut and if it starts to get tight, back off or shut it off. 
One of the best investments I've made is a digital angle meter for lining up the blade to 90 and 45 degree cuts.

Respect the tool but don't fear it. If you fear it, it'll get you.


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## teejk (Jan 19, 2011)

blades…I prefer the thicker blades and in a 40 tooth (can't remember the brand but HD used to sell them for about $20…came in a yellow tray). much cheaper so I don't cry so much when I toss them plus the wider kerf is very effective in keeping the piece from coming back together. I think I've experienced kick-back once in 10 years (an explosive piece of #2 pine that didn't appreciate being ripped). Nobody got hurt and in a way it was nice to see it was a faulty board before I did anything with it).

I have experienced kick-back when I step up to a 60 tooth blade


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## RonInOhio (Jul 23, 2010)

I have seen many videos online of so-called pros using the table saw, with horrible 
techniques I might add.

This is sort of a pet-peeve of mine.

Often they don't use push sticks and have their hands 
too close to the blade.

What a lousy example these people are. Don't pay attention or try to
copy those techniques.

Many of these videos are on supposedly professional woodworking
sites too.

*There are a few tips in here that I don't agree with but maybe I 
misunderstood what they were saying. 
*
Do not stand directly behind the piece you are ripping ! Any kick-back 
and you are going to get nailed.

*Standing between the blade and fence would seem to put you 
in line of the piece . And that seems like a recipe for disaster to me.*

Again, just don't stand directly behind the piece being ripped and use push-sticks.

Sometime in the future you are probably going to want a sled. A properly made 
sled will increase the safety factor.

Have fun and respect the tool.


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## Purrmaster (Sep 1, 2012)

Does anyone know if there is a way to install a vertical (pushing downward on the wood) featherboard on this saw? There are some slots cut into the fence but I don't think they are meant to mount anything. Also, I'd use a magnetic featherboard on the fence but the fence is aluminum. So magnets won't work.

I've seen metal bars called T tracks at the woodworking stores but I'll be honest in saying I haven't a clue what they are.


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## 280305 (Sep 28, 2008)

Here is one option for featherboards that push both into the fence and down on the table:
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=55999&cat=1,42363,42356


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## Purrmaster (Sep 1, 2012)

This may end up all being for naught. My folks are terrified on insisting on getting a SawStop instead. And, apparently, are willing for pay for it. Can anyone comment on how the SawStop contractor saw compares to the Ridgid?

And I assume all the safety tips still apply with a SawStop? Just because it has that safety feature doesn't mean I ever want to end up using it.


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## bladedust (Mar 12, 2012)

Rule #1. KEEP YOUR HANDS AWAY FROM THE BLADE!!!!
Rule #2. see rule #1
Rule #3. do not stand directly behind your workpiece
Rule #4. always use a riving knife, or at least a splitter.
Rule #5. never take your eyes off the work
Rule #6. never cut wood when tired, bored or distracted
Rule #7. do not fear the tool, but do show it plenty of respect
Rule #8. *USE COMMON SENSE*
Rule #9. SEE ALL ABOVE RULES.

I'm sure there are a few I missed. I would suggest that you scour this website for safety info, you will find a ton of it.

happy cutting.

y


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## aaroncgi (Dec 27, 2012)

Wow, they're wanting to spring for more than three times the price, good for them. Certainly the extra $1000+ will be saved many times over compared to a trip to the emergency room. If it can be afforded, one may as well get the most safety you can. Yes, the safety tips mentioned for the R4512 will apply to any saw.

I can't speak to comparing the two in actual use. But specification wise, they seem comparable, and both seem to be highly regarded here and at other woodworking forums.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Lots of great information , I totally disagree with standing in the center of the board when ripping,always stand to the side in case of kick back. I live in southern Oregon if you ever get close I would be glad to give you a run down on table saw saftey . I teach a adult woodworking class for UCC community collage .
Here's a great book on table saws.

http://product.half.ebay.com/Jim-Tolpins-Table-Saw-Magic-by-Jim-Tolpin-1999-Paperback/363291&tg=info


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

*Never *stand behind the wood, *never *put your hands or fingers inline with the blade, *never *touch the blade while it's moving. If the blade feels like it's binding (or feels wrong in any way) then back off the cut. Pay attention every moment the saw is running, if your inner voice starts chastising - listen. Tablesaws don't choose to hurt you, people lose focus then lose control then lose fingers.


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## Purrmaster (Sep 1, 2012)

I've got a question about backing out the cut. I had read somewhere that you don't want to try and get the wood back out of the blade. Because that way leads to kickbacks. a1Jim, I was also under the impression that you want to stand to the side of the saw if possible. Basically you don't want to be in the line of fire for the saw.

If I do end up with a SawStop all of this information will still be invaluable. Just because a car has airbags doesn't mean you want to crash the car.


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## Moai (Feb 9, 2009)

Hi there….probably all is said but…...
my two cents:
1.I guess that saw is a "Contractor's" type saw…?......so, frist thing I would do is to anchor down the saw to the floor and make sure the machine is not moving or stumbling side to side during operation.
2. Always use sharp blades. dull blades are for Lumberjocks members.
3. ALWAYS wear safety goggles. Always…..did you hear me?...Always.
4. when in need of an small piece, always get it from a big one.
5. lumber has lots of tensions inside (fibers) so, let's say a 5/4 board must be ripped in halves…....do this: make a cut half way, and then make a final cut. In this way all that tension inside the lumber can be released gradually avoiding the blade to get trap.
6. feel the machine, like your car, get familiar with the things it can perform and those it can't. ontractors type saws are ok for cutting particle boards and plywood…..but lack the enough power when cutiting real wood.
7.never try to pull pieces in front of the blade. never make cuts backwards.
8. the smaller the space between the blade and the insert plate, the better.
9. put all your concentration on what you are doing (Cutting!), if you have other things to do that keep you paying ALL the attention, stop and go make them.
Happy woodworking


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## WDHLT15 (Aug 15, 2011)

When you try to back out of the cut, the board can rack against the fence, and the spinning blade will launch the board into low earth orbit. You too, if you are standing directly in-line.


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## Kroden (Apr 23, 2012)

Just a couple thoughts on Francisco's post, and my experience with the R4512:

1.) The R4512 weighs 250lb. As long as the rollers aren't deployed, it doesn't like to move even on my smooth concrete floor.

6.) This saw definitely isn't a cabinet saw, but I've run 8/4 hard maple and purpleheart through mine. Only problem was a maple board had a twist that caused it to bind. Luckily the piece was so massive the saw didn't have the power to kick it back, it just stopped dead in its tracks. So there's another tip - don't try to run twisted boards through a table saw.

*Backing out a Cut*
I think the poster that said "back off" if things don't feel right, probably meant stop pushing the board and kill the power. As for backing out a cut, you won't be able to do that with the pawls installed. You're installing those, right?


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## Straightbowed (Feb 9, 2012)

make some good push sticks by hand where your hand sits at least 4in above the blade and about 12 to 18 in long and 1 1/2 wide with a cleat at the rear thats your first priority besides knowing all safety and operations of the mach of course thats in your manual that comes with tha saw but just stressing it, mine are shaped like a plane handle so I can let go easy if something happens. just sayin, it kinda looks like a jointer plane without the blade and front tote and not as wide I made mine till I liked something that felt good and I also have replcement room with replacement push bottoms when they get chewed by the saw just saw off the handle with a jig or bandsaw and glue another one on happy newyear be safe enjoy your new saw!!!!!!!!!!!


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

When I got my first table saw I bought a book called
"Table Saw Techniques" by Roger Cliffe. Honestly,
it's not the best table saw book by a long shot but
it taught me how to be safe while doing all the 
cuts the table saw can do.

My advice is get a book on table saws and read it.


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

One other point, use common sense, if it appears to be dangerous, it probably is, if it appears to be easy, double check it be fore you flip the power switch. And, always keep your hands away from the blade, spinning or not!


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

As for backing out of a cut, yeah stop pushing and back off the pressure not pull the board out. What can happen is the board gets cockeyed a tiny bit, you'll feel resistance and the board might try to lift, if you try to push through it all hell will break loose. Just back backing off a 1/4-1/2" you can relieve the stress, straighten up and finish the cut. If you don't have a knee paddle, turning the saw off is a last resort as you have to let go and put yourself behind the board. 
OP, we're talking about a rip cut.


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## Purrmaster (Sep 1, 2012)

One thing puzzles me. I was looking at saw instructions and they said that for a crosscut I should just back the wood against the miter gauge and push it into the saw. Now this may be a really dumb question but… wouldn't that require getting your fingers very, very close to the blade? And to finish the cut wouldn't you end up ramming the miter gauge right into the blade?


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## miles125 (Jun 8, 2007)

I sometimes wonder how many people never undertake woodworking for all the warnings about how risky it is to life and limb. Hey it's not for the careless or clumsy. But if you're like most people and not in that category, it's very rewarding and worth all the risk involved.


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## 280305 (Sep 28, 2008)

The miter gauge should not contact the blade. I am not sure if yours is adjustable side-to-side. I doubt it if it is the standard one that comes with the saw.

I looked at the instructions for a similar Rigid table saw. For a cross cut, it says:
Hold the workpiece firmly with both hands and feed the workpiece into the blade.
NOTE: The hand closest to the blade should be placed on the miter gauge lock knob and the hand farthest from
the blade should be placed on the workpiece.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Purrmaster, the answer to both is, no. Once you have it set up, it'll make sense.


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## RonInOhio (Jul 23, 2010)

Some miter gauges have home-made auxiliary fences put on them to make cross cutting larger pieces easier. Since the miter runs in the slot, if the fence is wide enough, it will pass through the blade at the same point and have a slot in it.

After market auxiliary fences aren't usually made like that .

I suggest you read up on table saw operations . Books at the library, youtube videos, etc.


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## Kroden (Apr 23, 2012)

Is the saw not setup yet? If it's setup, you can practice the movements with the blade retracted to get an idea of where your hands are going to be and how boards are going to behave.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

*How to Crosscut on the Tablesaw*


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## Purrmaster (Sep 1, 2012)

Ah, the illustrations make more sense of it. Thank you. Though I'm not sure how I'd crosscut very short pieces. I suppose I can yank out a handsaw at that point. Some people suggested a crosscut sled. I'm going to look into making that. The biggest limitation I've had so far is being able to make accurate rip cuts. Which I hope the table saw will largely solve.

Many thanks to all of you who posted. It's appreciated.


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## BentheViking (May 19, 2011)

push sticks are stupid. use your tongue instead

just kidding please don't do that


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## HerbC (Jul 28, 2010)

Do not wear gloves while using the tablesaw.

Herb


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## RonInOhio (Jul 23, 2010)

Its recommended to use some sort of jig for cutting small pieces on the table saw. Or as you say, use a handsaw
perhaps.


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