# SawStop Job Site Saw Zero Clearance Insert



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

Nice!!


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## northwoodsman (Feb 22, 2008)

Did you 3D print them? If so are you willing to share the STL files? I have the same saw. It's a great saw. I have had mine about 18 months now.


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## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

My friend. I re-read the part about being 80 a few times! Utter disbelief! Glad to hear you're still playing with wood! 
All the best to you.


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Northwoodsman: Sorry I didn't ask for them, I'm using ones that I cut out of plywood. I'm going to try and post it tomorrow. Need to take some pictures.

I'm sure it we could find a friendly designer. There's not much to it a flat piece with a 60 degree angle 10 3/8 inches long and 3 1/2 inches wide. You really don't need the riving knife space. You could cut that with the blade.

But if you were designing it I guess you could put it in.


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Lee: I'm surprised as much as you that the number is that big.

I'm not 80 I'm really 79.99 plus tax

I made 180 memory boxes this year to give the the Mason Dixon Woodworkers for their toy giveaway at christmas.










Sorry for the upside down picture.


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## Zipsss (Feb 20, 2007)

Hello Karson. How do you like the table saw in comparison to the old one?


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Z'eev The Job Site saw uses a formed top surface. It's flat but it's a painted surface of some type. It's interesting that the right side of the surface can be moved maybe a foot to the right. The scales for both closed and open are on the front of the machine. I've taken off the SawStop blade because it's actually over 1/8" in thickness, I've gone to a thinner blade, the current one is .087 thick and 60 tooth. The cut is perfect and does a great job. If I fail to turn on the shop vac and do much cutting the exhaust connector fills up with saw dust and then you get a big blowback to the front of your clothes. There is no dust containment it's from the blade to the dust collector.

I guess if being used on a job site the saw dust would blow to the ground. The wheels are great and it's easy to collapse and then stand it on the end of the saw. I can roll it outside (I have a walk out basement) if I need to work on some larger pieces of wood that find a way to hit something in the shop. But, I do a lot of skill saw work to get big pieces into smaller pieces. Move it outside. My shop is not like the Delaware one. It's a little less than 1/2 of the basement. I do the laundry in my shop.

The grizzly saw that I was using before was nice and stable and I had a lot of jigs that worked with the miter slot to the blade. Those jigs will now have to be recalibrated to a different spacing.

My plans are to delivery the Grizzly to my son-in-law in South Car. but that hasn't happened yet so both saws are taking up space now. My Jointer and thickness planer are at my son-in-laws home about 3 miles from where I live now. So my lumber and big equipment are there and my more finished work will be done at my current home.

I'm probably down to 6,000 BD Ft of lumber, but it's a long way to get smaller.


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## northwoodsman (Feb 22, 2008)

Thanks Karson. If I ever get around to needing and designing one I'll send you the file. I design and print a lot of things for my shop. I am having some mobility issues and haven't used the saw in 12 months. At least with the portability it's not in the way. It's folded up and under my 3D printer bench.


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

I looked at the insert against my 220X220mm glass surface. the insert is too big. a 250X250 or 300X300 would be a good fit. I downloaded some files on THINKIVERSE.COM and I found one that can be modified for the size. It's a top for a box and it's designed with an angle on the edge. Like a sliding lid.

I've not researched it so I don't know if its usable. It probably wont have the cutout for the riving knife.


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## Zipsss (Feb 20, 2007)

Thank you for the info. Does it cut as good as the Grizzly?can it take a dado blade?


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Yes Z'eev it will take a 8" dado blade, Not sure of the width, but, probably all of the blades for a 13/16" stack It requires a different cartridge because of the 8" diam.

I used a standard skill saw blade on my Grizzly, because it has a 1/16" cut. We use them at the Toy workshop because when you are ripping many pieces, the less sawdust the more pieces. On my saw it would cut 1 5/8" thick material.

I asked sawstop if I could use that blade on the SawStop. They said they don't recommend it because of the blade mass might not be enough to cut into the aluminum stop block under flesh detection.

I also think I might have read that the power on electronics might not sense a correct blade configuration and not power on. They do have a wayto disable the sense ele3ctronics so that you can cut wet wood that could cause disabling like a finger touch.

I've set off mine twice $90.00 for the cartridge and also blade Once I was cutting a 45 degree angle and the blade just touched the miter gauge. A mark so small it could possible be missed and the other was cutting some wood using a sled and I was getting ready to pull the sled back and my thumb repositioned to do the pull back and I touched the side of the blade. Not a mark on the finger.

Sawstop replaces the cartridge for no cost if it was a save on the human body. The memory in the cartridge must have some signal pulses that caused it to activate. They replaces the cartridge for the finger but not for the miter gauge.

one of these days I'll try the skill saw blade and see what the machine does. The 1/16 blade is .0625" and I've got some 10" blades that are .087 so it's hardy worth the effort to use a small blade when the 10" guy doesn't make a lot more sawdust. The 10" is protected and the skill blade is not protected.

The cut of the saw is fantastic. I'ce cut some 2X10 rough sawn Red oak and it went through it like butter I built a ramp off a deck I built on the front of the house. It's hard for the wife to get her groceries up 4 steps so I make a ramp. I currently had a white plastic railing on the steps so I was going to duplicate it on he ramp. It turns out that the stair railing cannot be used on ramps (The straight railing can't be used on ramps either) It required that wooden Balusters would have to be cut. I made these out of 2X10 red oak. They'll age up like the bench as soon as the sun comes out.










The deck is rough sawn white oak 1X6X16' I'm letting it age in the sun. The benches above the ramp were plastic ends from Amazon for about $50.00 a pair and they are made to assemble with treated 2×4 lumber. I used red oak again and they are aging up nice. I assume they won't fail while I'm around to fix them. I used 1 inch red oak for the slats and I extended the 2/4 pieces to also allow a table surface on the end of the bench.

i probable should make a new posting for the deck.


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