# cherry logs



## pommy (Apr 17, 2008)

Hi my nieghbour has just cut down a cherry tree from his garden now i have been given some pieces i know i have to seal the ends but my quetion is …..........No1: do i de-bark the pieces and No2 if i want to use how long before i can or can i use green

Andy


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## crank49 (Apr 7, 2010)

How big is the log?
Are you planning to make flat work or use it for turning?
A high humidity area can change the whole schedule; is this log in England?


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## DanYo (Jun 30, 2007)

do you have a lathe? turn something ! nothing better then turning green wood


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## SgtSnafu (Jun 11, 2009)

In my area, and for the sorts of stuff I build - I would not debark it, and would cut some 1-1/4" and some 2-1/2" slabs out of it. I would paint the ends (to keep from checking and cracking) and stack it under the deck (with stickers) to dry… I concur with Jim, in this area it is normally about a year per inch when cut into slabs, Crank49 is also right different climates (areas) have a lot to do with drying time… Hope this helps..

I was wondering how large the log was too, but no matter what size it is.. It is a good score…


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## bubski (Jul 16, 2011)

I'm not sure if its inappropriate to post here - but I am looking for advice on cherry logs as well.
We have a number of volunteer cherry trees growing on our property. We want to cut a couple of the larger ones to use as posts in our studio. Perhaps 6" in diameter a little over 5' long. We also want to cut a number of smaller ones 4" in diameter 8' long to use as holders for glass on the stair railing. We cut a few in May and took the bark off - left them in an unheated building they have all cracked badly. Advice on what time of year to cut them and how to store them so they do not crack would be lovely - should we have left the bark on through the drying process?

Thanks
Barb


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## BarbaraGill (Feb 12, 2011)

If you plan on turning the wood, use green and turn to finished or rough out dry and re-turn. If you want to use as boards, saw it or have it sawn as soon as possible and dry the boards. A year per inch for drying wood is a misleading relatively untrue guide.

Around here leaving the bark on Cherry is an invitation to powder post beetles. Trying to dry wood in a log form is a pretty unrewarding project.


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## Sawmillnc (Jan 14, 2010)

@Barbara, Thanks for posting that regarding the drying time. Kiln drying my lumber(4/4 and 5/4) I air dry cherry for 2-3 months when the temperature is average 70 or higher. Kiln drying time after the air drying period is 1 week. The kiln drying kills PPB (lyctus)


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## pmayer (Jan 3, 2010)

I like to get the bark off of it, but you don't have to. Here is an article that I wrote on some best practices for drying green lumber if you are interested: http://www.wwgoa.com/articles/one-great-tip/should-i-buy-my-lumber-green-/.

The guideline for 1 year of drying tie per inch varies dramatically by area, and you get virtually no drying progress during the winter in the north country. I put a few hundred bf of cherry and walnut up in my attic (in MN) this past March and it is ready to go now (was ready in abt 3 months) at 9-10% mc. Granted the process works slightly faster in the attic because it is hotter up there, but is about the same in the garage.


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## bubski (Jul 16, 2011)

Thanks for the comments. We do not want to mill this wood but leave it whole in the round.
The temperature was less than 70 and the posts cracked badly. We do want to router channels in the smaller logs. Use the larger ones as support and decoration. Is there a time of year you should *NOT* cut the trees?

Thanks again to all for your comments.


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## derosa (Aug 21, 2010)

I've heard from a couple of people that cutting the logs in the fall after the leaves fall and leaving them outside through the winter is supposed to help with the process. Something about the sap having more alcohol in it to prevent the tree freezing in the fall. Might just be an old tale but when people desire to not have the bark fall off the tree is also cut down in the fall so there may be something to it. The biggest thing will be as others mentioned, seals the ends so they don't dry to fast and crack too badly. In log form there will always be some cracking but slower drying at the ends will minimize it.


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## Sawmillnc (Jan 14, 2010)

Sawing in the winter DOES make a difference. Slower drying times and less sap means cleaner nicer lumber IF covered.


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