# Craftsman 101.06242 lathe restoration



## drors01

Hi,

I had in the past asked members for information regarding their lathes and used some of the information to restore an old lathe.

So the project is finished and thanks!

The clicking noise is a bad bearing that does not fit the lathe.





View on YouTube


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## rayn

Sweet!


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## wormil

Nicely done and I like the color. Did you replace the bushings with roller bearings? Also, how do you like that round drive belt? I've seen those before but if memory serves they were expensive so I went with a standard V belt on mine.


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## drors01

Hi, thanks guys.
I replaced the bushings with new ones but not with roller bearings. I am not sure if that possible, is it?

The color is RAL 5015. 
The belt is 1/4" and was not expansive but not simple to weld. It is very quiet and easy to stretch onto the pulley.


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## dhazelton

Well done. Where do the DC motor and controller come from?


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## drors01

thanks it is a 3 phase 230v motor. ebay.


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## wormil

> Hi, thanks guys.
> I replaced the bushings with new ones but not with roller bearings. I am not sure if that possible, is it?


Don't know but it's an interesting idea. I have a Goodell Pratt with bushings and it has been in the back of my mind to find out if they can be swapped for roller bearings.


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## Trabiman

just recently picked up one of these old Dunlap/Sears lathes. Do you have other pictures of the lathe throughout the process? How hard was it to find parts? The one I have is missing a couple things…


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## wormil

Depends on what's missing. Ebay is unfortunately, your best bet. Everything you need will probably be on there and each part will cost as much as your lathe.


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## drors01

Hi

I have no images that I can find. If I find then I will post them.
I think you are going to find most parts are ok just clean and grease the ones in the tailstock and it will be like new.
Take the headstock apart: Release the spindle lock ring with the left hand thread - left side and right hand thread on the right side and release the lock screw in one the pulley. 
If the oilite bushings are good the spindle will have no play if pulled up and down. If it moves, then these are not expensive on ebay just make sure you order the correct ones. There are the two thrust bearings you need to inspect and see if they are original and in good shape. 
More than that it cleaning, paint/rust removal and finish are more matters of cosmetics.

When refitting the spindle after making sure there is no or almost no play. Start with the lock ring on the right it is a good idea to secure it as strong as you can and add strong locktite. Do it before fitting the spindle. Then take it through a metal lathe to face the shoulder that supports the headstock. This is the most important tip to make this lathe as accurate as it can be.

Dror


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## MrUnix

According to the parts list in the manual, the only bearing on that lathe is a thrust bearing (PN# L2-20)... the spindle rides in bushings (PN# L2-14). The bushing size isn't specified, but it should be pretty standard. They are a PITA to replace though, so hopefully yours are still in good shape. For the thrust bearing, you may be able to clean and re-pack it yourself if it's not too worn out. If it needs to be replaced, the VM Wiki has this about the bearing:



> Original Thrust Bearing: SKF 465233 (ID: 1-7/16", OD: 7/8", W: 13/32"); Atlas part number- L2-20


(Although, I think the OD and ID above are reversed)

I know you can get needle thrust bearings in that ID/OD (but thinner), so you should be able to find ball thrust bearing as well.

Cheers,
Brad


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## Chris_

I just bought one of these. Thanks for the post.

Where did you get the rubber belt for this?

I've got a number of tools that could benefit from these types of belts.

thanks

Chris


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## drors01

I think I got it from Amazon


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## Chris_

Did you get the raw stock, or preformed belts?



> I think I got it from Amazon
> 
> - Dror


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## drors01

I am not sure I understood.

I used heat to weld it and made the needed size.


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## Chris_

> I am not sure I understood.
> 
> I used heat to weld it and made the needed size.
> 
> - Dror


Okay, so you got raw stock and made your own.

thanks


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## SawSucker

Why not just use a Fenner Drives PowerTwist link belt ? The weld in your belt sounds like a hassle, and probably really not the best solution when it comes to vibration, I could see the belt jumping around some. Otherwise the lathe looks great. Gotta luv old American made iron.


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## Truefire

Outstanding…absolutely beautiful restore….love it. Heck, I wouldn't even allow that little bit of noise to bother me. That's part of the nostalgia associated with working with older tooling, just puts you in the woodworking mood. :>>::::::<<:: enjoy your turning


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## drors01

SawSucker and Chris, thanks!

SawSucker, it is very simple and most quiet belt I could find.

Yes I love these old tools. They are built to last. Well old tools have limited safety features but for me they are amazing in all other aspects.
I am now also restoring: a craftsman 109 metal lathe, a craftsman 113.27520 table saw and a craftsman alien thickness planer.


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## Chris_

Yeah, I'm kinda a Craftsman nut as well.

It all started out with a contractors saw I got from my Dad forever ago. I didn't "restore" it but I managed to turn a sow's ear into a silk purse:










I've got a Jointer which I built a nice base for.










This cutie pie found it's way to my workshop a while back, this is a photo before I put the motor on it.










And then I bought this sad sack some 5 years ago for $20










I'm in the home stretch of a rehab of this thing and this is what it looked like a couple of weeks ago:










The one major piece not Craftsman was the old arn that started the journey, a 16" Walker Turner Band Saw:










And I just bought a 101.06242 lathee a month or so ago that is sitting on the counter waiting attention.

It looks like this (not my photo);










Cheers,


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## TheGreatJon

Fantastic job. Did you brush or spray the paint?


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## Chris_

Everything is brushed on Rustoleum oil based paint.


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## drors01

Wow, amazing collection!
I need to ship stuff over so I depend on the high prices of ebay and need to find ways to do shipping.

You live in the right are of the world man!


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## drors01

I want to do something about the safety of the table saw.

Did you add a riving knife to the saw or a splitter?

What fence did you use?


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## Chris_

Yea, I've been thinking about safety as well, but have done nothing yet. Am leaning toward a riving knife.

The fence is a Biesemeyer Home Craftsman Fence I bought many moons ago for the contractors saw. They are a little smaller than the standard Biesemeyer and seemed to be the right fence at least for the Contractors saw. Seems to fit the Cabinet saw as well. They are no longer produced.

I had bought a Delta T2, which is a clone of the Biese, but I decided to put it on the Contractor's Saw and the Beise on the cabinet saw.

Unfortunately, I don't have room for two saws in the shop and the contractor saw will be broken down and put in storage 

I'll reassemble it when I have more room.

I'll post a full photo documentary of the Cabinet saw rehab when I'm done.

This is what it will look like at completion










The base and tops are complete. I need to build the boxes for the drawers.


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## Chris_

More questions for the OP,

1) How did you get the cover off of the the headstock?










2) Where did you get the chuck and the live center?

Thanks,


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## drors01

1. I didnt get it of it simply broke on shipping. 
I think you can gently push pull the pins from the cover.
2. It is a talon from oneway.


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## Chris_

Oh, okay, sorry about that!

I've tried to nudge the pins on the cover a little and they resisted. Yes, it looks fairly fragile and I didn't want to man-handle it.

What was the Morse Taper # on the live center?

thanks


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## Chris_

Okay,

I just bit the bullet and cut the drift pins between the headstock and the cover with a hacksaw blade. Then I drilled the pins out of the cover. Easy peasy. I'll either use machine screws with double nuts or buy replacement drift pins to put it back on once I'm done repainting.

Still curious about the Morse Taper tho.

The Talon is lovely, but I think a bit pricy for me at this stage. I will wait until the lathe is ready to use before I start buying accessories.

Mama's checkbook hasn't fully recovered from the cabinet saw rehab. I'll give it some time to heal.

Cheers,


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## drors01

Hi Chris, 
the headstock in your image is having too many lock rings on the out end and is missing a thrust bearing on the same end.

Check penn state's baracudda chucks 
they are considered good and price includes many add ons.


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## Chris_

Hi there,

The manual and this photo of another lathe seem to disagree with you:










Thanks for the info


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## DLK

I also have a Dunlop 101.06242 lathe. How did you get the cup center out of the tail stock?
I'd like to replace it with a live center. Also what did you replace yours with?


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## Chris_

LOL! That was a challenge.

I took the shaft out of the housing and put the largest piece of steel I had that which would fit in the hole in the shaft. A 2# hammer only managed to buckle the rod….

So I got the Mapp gas torch out and heated it up while my son tapped on the now bent rod in the hole in the shaft. Blang, it came out and dropped into the garbage can filled with rags.

Cheers,


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## MrUnix

On most lathes, retracting the tailstock spindle will self-eject the center once the threaded portion hits the end of the center taper… From the parts list for that lathe, it appears that is the case for that lathe as well… I imagine if it was rusted tight it might be a pita, but did you try that first?

Cheers,
Brad


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## Chris_

Oops, yes that is exactly what I did to get the center out of the tail stock….

I read tail stock and thought head stock.

Sorry


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## OldGuysRule

Very nicely done. I've been refurbishing and old craftsman belt sander and used a link belt on it. It runs smoother then the regular V-belt but, I'm still not happy with the way it slaps around under load. I've been thinking about adding a spring tension idler pulley but, it didn't come with it so I'm not sure. Anyone have any other way to keep a belt from slapping? Would the round belts do they same thing? I'm thinking they would be even worse!


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## drors01

I saw more images like yours. It means the spindle can move unless the lock ring touches the headstock. 
If it moves then you can only turn between centers.


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## drors01

Chris,

The lathe accuracy can be improved if you improve the spindle.
You can get very good results if you tighten the register ring locked with red lock tight and then true it with a metal lathe. 
I had a noticeable run out measured at 0.020" and at 0.002" after that process.


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## mrg

> Okay,
> 
> I just bit the bullet and cut the drift pins between the headstock and the cover with a hacksaw blade. Then I drilled the pins out of the cover. Easy peasy. I ll either use machine screws with double nuts or buy replacement drift pins to put it back on once I m done repainting.
> 
> Still curious
> 
> The Talon is lovely, but I think a bit pricy for me at this stage. I will wait until the lathe is ready to use before I start
> buying accessories.
> 
> The morse taper is a #1 for this lathe. Can get a chuc
> 
> Mama s checkbook hasn t fully recovered from the cabinet saw rehab. I ll give it some time to heal.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> - Chris_


The taper is #1


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## Wolfdaddy

I have one of these Craftsman 101.06242 lathes that belonged to my grandfather. I just got a Nova G3 chuck for it, but I haven't gotten the correct insert for it yet. I don't know how to determine the thread pitch. Do you guys happen to know what it is on these?


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## drors01

It is 3/4 16tpi.


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## Chris_

Has anyone modified one of these to replace the bushings on the shaft with bearings?

'Jes curious


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## wormil

Chris, it's an interesting idea but probably not practical.


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## drors01

I wanted to do it and was thinking of using a self align block bearing mounted at the bottom and to make space for that use a one step pulley.
But it is not worth the trouble as the bronze bearings are available and they do the job…

If you want to make it much better
1. Snag the the register ring to spindle with loctite. 
2. Then use a metal lathe to true the register shoulder surface so the chuck sits true.

It will be much more accurate.


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## OSU55

Very nice looking refurb! When you get in the market for a chuck, take a look at PSI tools Barracuda line. They include several jaw sets and are a very good value. Another or additional approach is a tap the same size/thread as the spindle and tap waste blocks.


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## drors01

thanks. I have the oneway TALON and it is very good.
Was thinking about the cheaper PSI as a secondary chuck.


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## Yrag

Can anyone tell me the TPI on the head spindle of a Sears vintage lathe #101.06242? Early 1940s. Thanks.


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## drors01

Hi

It is 3/4 16tpi.


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## Yrag

I'm trying to find an adapter for a new chuck and was having trouble finding one to fit what I thought was a 1" 16 tpi. Appreciate your help.


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