# JET JCS-10



## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

I'd buy a good blade before buying a new table saw. I know that thin kerf blades are recommended for 1.5 hp saws-would be worth trying here. I'm very happy with thin kerf Freud rip blade adn a thin kerf DeWalt all purpose blade.

Especially worth it if the blade is used. Could be dull.


----------



## BigAl98 (Jan 29, 2010)

I've found most of the saw is in the motor…..ie you'll spend a pretty penny for a 3 hp or larger motor.


----------



## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Try the Freud Diablo blades (I use a 40 and a 24 tooth in my 2HP saw and have no complaints). They are inexpensive but I have mine resharpened and they cut better than new.


----------



## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Probably just need a sharp blade, high dollar or not.

You should use a picture of your saw rather than a picture of someone else's.


----------



## jeffski1 (Nov 29, 2008)

I think a new thin kerf blade would be in order,for any saw really…It helped my Rigid 4512…


----------



## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

Go for the sharp and/or new blade first. If the saw itself is not letting you perform tasks you need, then replace the saw. However, you will still need a new blade


----------



## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

Try a thin kerf blade, for example a Diablo 1024 ripping blade. It will zip through 8/4 oak like you wouldn't believe. I started with a 50 tooth full kerf industrial Freud blade, and noticed slow feed rates and too much resistance to feeding thick lumber. Thin kerf makes all the difference for these mid-size saws. Plus the Diablo blades are inexpensive, and widely available at Home Depot, etc.


----------



## JHIM (Jul 17, 2013)

looks like i will be trying a different blade! thanks everyone


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

I have an older Jet CTAS model and agree that they are well built saws. Basically, one of the earliest Tawainese clones of the venerable Delta Unisaw.

Are you basing your assessment that 2 HP isn't enough umph based on any particular problem you've experienced with the saw, or is it more based on saw vs. saw spec. comparisons.

If you've observed a problem that you think points to lack of HP, you'll need to detail it in order to get meaninful feed back. You've received some good ideas for blades…. Thin kerf is probably appropriate for a 2 HP saw… and dedicated rip and cross cut blades will give both good cut quality and efficient use of available power.

If your concerns are driven by spec comparisons, I suggest you put some miles on the saw… it may serve you very well as is.

As far as combo blades go, I have the Fusion blade that Andy mentioned above and like it quite a bit, but it takes more effort and power to rip with it than it would a dedicated rip blade.


----------



## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Also, is may sound obvious but rip blades require much less power than using a combo blade to rip. My full kerf rip blade will zip through wood that bogs down a thin kerf combo.


----------



## mbs (May 8, 2010)

Some blades are made for very specific uses. For example, I have a rip blade that is made for 1"-2" thick wood. It is not intended to work well or thin wood.

I generally prefer buying an industrial grade blade that has plenty of sharpening capacity rather than purchasing a less expensive disposable blade. The last Freud GLR (Glue Line Rip) blade i purchased didn't last long at all.

A member of the LJ, Knottscott, has done plenty of testing and documenting of blades. I've been happy with his recommendations.

For general purpose blades I can recommend the Tenyru Gold series thin kerf blade. Cuts like butter. I made many 2" wide, 0.090" thick walnut laminate strips and glued them together without any planing/sanding and had no gaps. I can also recommend the Forest woodworker II. both of these blades are pricey. Scott may know of some great deals since he stays abreast of the blade market.


----------



## rustynails (Jun 23, 2011)

I used to have a 1.5 hp jet contractor saw and it cut everything I sent at it so I am guessing it's your blade. I also used to have a blue Jet cabinet saw and it looked just like yours. If you are interested I have a brand new throat plate that takes inserts for zero clearance and dato blades that I would be willing to sell if you are interested.

12 unused inserts and one unused master plate. New it ran closes to $175.00. I would let it go for $50.00.

Good luck with the cutting.


----------



## MerylL (Aug 24, 2014)

This forum is a live encyclopedia. I'm always just so amazed at how much I learn here. (Off-topic, I know, but I'm just so in awe!)


----------

