# Easy Shop Table



## Lockwatcher (Jan 11, 2011)

*Easy Shop Table*










I started this project after building an assembly table from an issue of Wood Magazine (March 2010). The table was a lot of work (the torsion box top) but the main unit holding the table up was an easy build. That's when I hit upon the idea of using the same design for a group of extra tables for other uses. I've built a number of these already, and am using one as a router table, a miter saw station, and a sharpening station.

It is built using standard re-dimensioned construction lumber (from the big box stores). I can easily build one in a weekend (and have!).

I made this project with two 2×10's (10') with minimal extra lumber. Total cost is about for the lumber is $25-$30 including a top. The most expensive part is the castors. More on these later…

A couple of notes before I start construction. First, when using construction lumber in a project like this, you may need to get more than you need in order to get the clearest final project. Also, buying the larger lumber (like 2×10's) tends to yield the best lumber. Choose your pieces carefully for the cleanest and straightest boards you can find. When ripping the boards, be extra carefull as you might release tension in the boards and cause binding. I was able to find some great lumber by searching through the racks at the local Lowe's store.

Okay, lets get started…

Here is the basic cut list for the project. All lumber is standard 1 1/2" thick construction lumber.

4 - 29 1/2" x 3" Long leg
4 - 24 1/2" x 3" short leg
4 - 21" x 2 1/2" Long Rail
4 - 18" x 2 1/2" Short rail
1 - 18" x 18" x 3/4" MDF or Plywood
4 - 1 1/4" x 1 1/4" x 14 1/2" shelf cleat (make from ripping scraps)

Optional
1 - 24" x 35" x 3/4" MDF or Plywood top

*Starting the build…*

First, we need to cross-cut our lumber into reasonable lengths to make it easier to rip. I cut two 31", two 26", and four 24" inch pieces. The 31" & the 26" pieces will be ripped to 3" wide. The 24" pieces will be ripped to 2 1/2" wide. Here is how to do this.

Below: The boards are first cross-cut to make ripping easier.










*Ripping the Stock:*

Set your fence at 9" to trim off one edge of ALL of the boards (assuming you are using 2×10's). Lay the 24" boards asside. After trimming off one edge, set your fence to make a 3 1/2" cut. Rip the 31" & the 26" boards twice. You should have 8 boards of various lengths, all approx 3 1/2" wide. I pre-cut them this way to releive any stress in the lumber before cutting to final width.

Now let's do the same for the 24" lengths. Set your fence to make a 3" cut. Rip the 24" boards (once again to releive any stress in the lumber). Rip each board twice. You should have 8 boards approx 3" wide. Save your scrap as we will use it later to make cleats for the shelf.

If you have a jointer, joint one edge of each of the boards and mark the jointed edge.

Below: Ripping the first edge off of the dimensional lumber.










Below: Rip the stock extra wide to releive tension in the lumber.










Below: If possible, run the edge on your jointer - if you don't have a jointer, just cut the stock to final width!










Below: Don't forget to mark your jointed edge!










*Cutting to Final Width:*

You should now have a stack of 16 boards. 8 of them should be 3 1/2" wide and the other 8 should be 3" wide.

Set your fence to make a 3" cut. Rip the 4 31" & 26" pieces - lay these aside. Reset the fence to make a 2 1/2" cut. Rip the 24" pieces at this time - lay these aside as well.

Below: Rip the stock to final width










Below: The sixteen parts are cut to final width.










*Cutting to Final Length:*

Cut the various pieces to the sizes listed in the cut list. Cut one end off of each piece to square it up, then cut all of the various parts to length. If your using a chop saw like I did, use some scrap to back it up to avoid blow out.

Below: Using scrap to avoid blow-out when cutting to final length










Below: The sixteen parts are ready to assemble.










*The Glue Up:*

First we will assemble the upper and lower frame. Clamp one of the long rails to your work surface and glue and screw it to the end of one of the short rails…










Add another short rail to the other end, then finish up by adding another long rail. Repeat this procedure for the second frame…










Below: The first frame is complete…now repeat for the second frame…










Now we have to glue up the uprights (legs). Glue and screw one of the 24 1/2" legs to the center of one of the 29 1/2" legs. You need a 2 1/2" notch at each end of the assembly (to make this easier, clamp on a 2 1/2" scrap to one end as shown below). Repeat this procedure for the other three legs!



















Below: The four legs along with the two 21" square frames.










Now lets's add the bottom shelf. Cut your MDF shelf to match the opening on the assembled rails…










Lay one of the frames made earlier with it's top side down on a flat table. Drop the shelf into the opening so it is flush with the bottom…










Below: The shelf cleats 1 1/4" x 1 1/4" x 14 1/2" (made from scrap)










Below: Glue and screw the cleats to the bottom of the shelf…




























Flip the assembly over and your shelf is complete…










*Final assembly:*

Apply some glue to the face of the notch on one of the assembled legs. Clamp this onto the bottom assembly, on the face of a short rail. Use two screws to secure this. Use a square to ensure that the legs are at 90 degrees to the base unit. Repeat for the other three legs.










Below: Adding more legs to the frame assembly…



















Apply glue to the faces of the upper leg notches, and place the upper assembly into the notches in the same orientation as the lower unit. Clamp and screw this together as well. This completes the construction of the table.

Below: The completed glue-up










*Adding Castors:*

The castors I chose were the most expensive part of the project. The were about $12 each from Woodwerks (local store). Don't skimp when it comes to your castors! The ones I picked up lock both the wheel and the pivot. This is very important for a planer table or a router table. When I lock these castors - nothing moves. I had tried standard locking castors (Harbour Freight) and the table could still be pushed (as the wheel would whip around on its pivot).

Below: The castors I used lock both the pivot and the wheel…










Castors can be mounted directly to the bottom of the leg assemblies…



















The completed Shop Table ready for a top!










The shop table is now ready for use. As a router table, simply add the top of your choice (or make one). Mine is a Rockler top secured with a piano hinge on the rear side. I added a stop so I could tilt the table for access…



















You can also build a simple plywood or MDF top and cover it with formica. I did this for my sharpening station. This top is hooked to the upper frame with simple L brackets. I added Poplar edging to protect the top. I have built four so far (one of them is the base for my miter saw). Don't be put off by the simplistice nature of these tables. They are strong and very easy to build. You can modify this design by adding drawers, sides, whatever you wish.

Enjoy!


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## Rustic (Jul 21, 2008)

Lockwatcher said:


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nice table


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## ahohnstein (Jan 12, 2011)

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ken, fantastic writeup. thanks.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

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Nice table.


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## wookie (Dec 15, 2009)

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Thanks. I need a ton of these. Nice write up!


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## MarkColan (Aug 11, 2010)

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Thanks for taking the time to make it an easy project. What are the final dimensions?


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## Lockwatcher (Jan 11, 2011)

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Final dimensions:

Height: 36 1/2" (including top and castors - my top is 1 1/2" thick)

Table top area (without top), plan view 21" x 24"

Height: 29 1/2" (without castors or top)

If you need any more information or need some additional pictures, let me know!

I am in thr process of building another shorter one as a planer table…

Ken C / Lockwatcher


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## MarkColan (Aug 11, 2010)

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Thanks for the dimensions. I'm planning to build something like this, but with side and back panels, and drawers… as a stand for my drill press.


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## Don11 (Feb 4, 2011)

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What a great write-up. I made one for my Rockler router table, previously sitting atop saw horses, and I'm very happy with the results. Now I just need to add the locking casters. It was so cheap to make that now I want to build 3 or 4 more of them. I'm a woodworking newbie, so this was a good learning exercise for me.


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## Lockwatcher (Jan 11, 2011)

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Your version looks great…if anyone else has made one of these…post your pictures here as well!

Ken C. / Lockwatcher


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## griffithgd76 (Jan 10, 2011)

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This is perfect timing. I have been looking for a plan to make a table for my router table. They look great and I bet are rock solid. Thanks for posting how you went about making it.


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## Lockwatcher (Jan 11, 2011)

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Glad that you like it! I am working on some more myself…

Ken C.


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## spunwood (Aug 20, 2010)

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I am so glad you posted this. I needed a quick plan for a assembly table too. This is going to be my drill station.


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## brippeon (Apr 10, 2011)

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Built one of these today in about 4 hours. Great plans, I modified the dimensions a little bit as I wanted a larger work surface. I went with 48×24 MDF top which I plan to seal… some how and a mdf bottom shelf which is not in the picture. I plan to build a few more of these for other uses. Thanks for the idea. I will also get better pictures and upload.

Also I made the bottom rails 4 inches so that I can load up the bottom self over the 48" span


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## Lockwatcher (Jan 11, 2011)

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brippeon,

That is a great version of the Shop Table. Your wide span is very cool indeed. And you were right to increase the width of your lower rails to support the extra weight. This is one of the other advantages to using wider construction lumber for the project (rather than 2×4's). You can addjust the sizes on the fly! I sealed my Giant Assembly Table with Polyurethane (brush on) it soaks in quickly but sealed very well (if you check out my table you will note the off-color from regular MDF). You should also post this table on a "project page" as well! Great job!

Ken C.


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## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

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COOL… Simple… Strong…

What could be better than that?!

Thank you very much!


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## raincitywoodcraft (Apr 5, 2011)

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Awesome tutorial! Glad you took the time to share.

Chris


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## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

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Even as a hand tool nut, I have got to say this was fun to flip through.


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## Jethro80 (Dec 26, 2011)

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Exactly what I had invisioned building myself!


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## Lockwatcher (Jan 11, 2011)

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Glad you like them Jethro!

These are easy to build…and use…

Ken C.

Lockwatcher


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## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

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It's a nice shop table and a fine presentation. Thanks for posting.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


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## awsisme (Mar 3, 2012)

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Ken, incredibly useful. Thank you for taking the time to do such a great job documenting it. I'm buildig one for my planer this weekend!


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## Lockwatcher (Jan 11, 2011)

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When you get it done, make sure you post a picture!

Ken C.


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## ITnerd (Apr 14, 2011)

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Alright, finally - 1 Lockwatcher-inspired project posted; 2 more to go:

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/63748

Next, my Router Table then the Drill Press/Bandsaw Combo stand. I have to stop building these things long enough to take some more pictures!

Thanks again Ken,

Chris


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## NiteWalker (May 7, 2011)

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Ken, I found this project searching for a planer stand since I finally got a planer. I'll be building one this weekend, many thanks for posting!.


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## crank49 (Apr 7, 2010)

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What perfect timing. Even if the original post was over 2 years ago.
I just purchased a set of full locking casters today for a mobile base for my "bench mount" drill press.
It has to be just 24" tall so I can see the belts for changing speed, but that's an easy mod.

I had designed a stand with a drawer under the top in addition to the bottom shelf.
But, I think yours will be so easy to build I will just come up with a drawer later.

Thanks for posting.


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## NiteWalker (May 7, 2011)

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Micheal, instead of a drawer what I was thinking of adding is a middle shelf. It would be just as easy as the rest; one more frame assembly, and instead of the inner legs being one piece they would be two pieces and go above and below the middle shelf. Can't wait to get started. :-D

These are the casters I'll be using. I have a set on my table saw stand and they work great.


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## Lockwatcher (Jan 11, 2011)

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WOW! Three posts in one day about my favorite work tables. All of your mods sound great..In all…I have built six or seven tabels for various uses (including a router table and a miter saw stand)...

If you need additional info, will provide what I can…just ask!

Please post a picture of your progress or your completed stands here…Thanks…

Ken C / Lockwatcher


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## NiteWalker (May 7, 2011)

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Ken,
Here's my ugly version of your easy shop table. 
(Still need to add the casters)









Details here.
Thanks again for posting this for all of us.


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## Lockwatcher (Jan 11, 2011)

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I like your version! The addition of the extra shelf will give you some extra storage…exactly how I envisioned it…

I still have plans to add a drawer to one of mine…

Ken C / Lockwatcher


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## crank49 (Apr 7, 2010)

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Well, I cheated. I had already cut some of the wood for my earlier design so I went ahead and built it for my drill press base Will try to get a picture tonight.









But, this table is based on the simple design we have been talking about and I'm gathering material for this one now.
This will be the new home for my miter saw and 12" disk sander.
Still only requires two pcs of 2×10 x 10ft long, I have the casters already and the top and bottom.
The top is two 23" x 54" sheets of 3/4 plywood. The bottom shelf is melamine coated particle board.


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## Lockwatcher (Jan 11, 2011)

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Wow! Great Sketch up…

Can't wait to see the pics…

Ken C / Lockwatcher


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## crank49 (Apr 7, 2010)

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I actually did that in AutoCAD then copied to the clipboard, pasted into Paint to get a bit mapped image I could upload to this site.


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## crank49 (Apr 7, 2010)

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Here is the drill press base. 
Haven't made the drawer yet.


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## NiteWalker (May 7, 2011)

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It's a great design.
My casters show up monday.

I'm already planning two more; a workbench base and a table saw outfeed table.
For the workbench base, I plan to bring the bottom shelf up about 4", and instead of using an mdf shelf, I'm leaving the space open since I'll be adding two banks of drawers. I'll probably widen the rails.

For the outfeed table I'll probably follow my planer cart design and add a middle shelf.

It's a very versatile design.


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

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Now thats 2 by furniture done right! I really like it.


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## DrJRSchwartz (Apr 14, 2014)

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Great ideas, thanks for sharing.


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## Holdem (Nov 12, 2013)

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This is outstanding!!!! Will have to make a few of these. Thank you for sharing!!!!


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## clieb91 (Aug 17, 2007)

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Ken, Glad I stumbled across this. I'm looking for a good idea for separating my drill press and my miter saw and I think this is just the ticket. I already have a bunch of scrap 2×4s from other shop projects so I will be putting those to use instead of the larger lumber but I thik it will work out in the end. Thanks for the great post and all the information.

CtL


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## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

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This is a nice srait forward shop table. Thanks for the nice presentation.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


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## Lockwatcher (Jan 11, 2011)

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I am so glad that I was able to share this with all of my fellow "LumberJockers", hope many of you are inspired to build the same!
Ken C.


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## Squatch97402 (Feb 26, 2018)

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I have the bosch router table. It stands 14" tall. Im thinking of shortening the legs 14" and should make it the same height as your table. I also, plan to widen it to 29". I have mounted the router table to a 3/4" plywood 29"x18 1/8". So the stand will have to fit the attached plywood base the router table is attached. When i build it i will attach pictures.

Update:
I might not have to change the size of the top. I should be able to mount the plywood thats attached to the router table directly to the original size of the stand. Any thoughts would be appreciated


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## snhacket01 (Nov 8, 2011)

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Built a 48×36 version of this to use a a lumber cart and an infeed table. Thanks for the ideas, plans and the detailed instructions


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## dredq (Jun 15, 2016)

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This seems like exactly what I have been looking for. Can you tell me what is the maximum size top you have tried with these table dimensions. I know you have used torsion tops-which I plan to copy as well. Any advice about increasing the dimensions of the table. How much should I increase the width of the rail boards? Thank you so much.


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## Lockwatcher (Jan 11, 2011)

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The largest size I have is about 4' x 4' - the original came from a Wood Magazine article for a giant assembly table (you can see that table in the pictures above - under the one I am building). I only did a Torsion top for my assembly table - the other smaller ones are a single 3/4" MDF top with a laminate surface. The undersides of the tops are held with cleats like the bottom shelf. I also used a torsion top as the wings on my miter table.

Lockwatcher / Ken C.


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