# Dovetail Themed Tool Swap - 2015



## AgentTwitch

*Welcome to the Lumber Jocks Dovetail Tool Swap 2015 Edition.*










• Start Date: November 1, 2014
• Ship Date: March 2, 2015

What is a dovetail themed tool swap?

Its simple, build a tool to give a mystery LumberJock that is used in producing dovetail joinery. This can include: Dividers, squares, gauges, marking knives, mallets, etc.

The only requirements are that it is used for dovetails, and that it is completed and shipped by the deadline of 02 March 2015.

All input and advice are welcome to make this a great experience! Remember, this is skill building, not skill having (Thanks Waho for that phrase).

You can make dovetail tools from kits, re-purposed tools, or make your own from scratch.

Basically have fun making a useful dovetail tool to give a fellow woodworker. Might as well make yourself some while you are at it.

Signup details: Please respond to the forum topic that you would like to participate. Then send me a private message with your full name, lumber jock handle, mailing address, tool you plan to build, and desired tool to receive if you have a preference. If anyone would like a specific tool please let me know and we'll try to accommodate. No guarantees.

The purpose of this swap is to promote an environment of community, and sharing. This is a skill building quest and offers a chance for you to get your creative juices flowing. You can (and should) post pictures anytime and if you're struggling or want to know what's the best way to do something we'll help
the best we can.

If you do commit to signing up, we would ask that you attempt to complete the project and send it out on time to make this a great experience for all involved. This is important.

If you feel inclined to make multiple tools, please feel free to do so, just let me know that they are considered separate builds and that way we can get a deserving LJ a completed tool in the event there is an odd number of participants or someone gracefully bows out.

Fellow LJ's may offer Kits and Parts or anything to help make a successful saw swap. Send me an email so I can put you on the vendor's list.

Out of pocket expenses will vary based on tool, but should not exceed $50 and could be far cheaper.

4 months is the tool swap time limit. Please note the following suspense:

• Start Date: November 1, 2014
• Signup Suspense: December 1, 2014
• Status Photo: February 1, 2015
• Ship Date: March 2, 2015

*Vendors:*
Surgical Blades 
Online Metals 
Woodcraft.com

Saw Plates, Nuts, and Backs
Two Guys in a Garage
Winsor Saw
Bontz Saw Works [Dovetail Kit at the bottom of the page]
Blackburn Tools

LumberJocks
ErikF
For Dovetail saw plates and backs, as well as turned brass, copper, and steel, contact ErikF

http://lumberjocks.com/August

*Tutorials*

Marking Knives and Gauges
Norse Woodsmith Marking Gauge 
David Barron Dovetail Knife 
Marking Gauge Video

Try Squares and Bevel Gauges
Will Meyers Wood and Brass Try Square
Wooden Try Square
Colen Clenton Style Adjustable Try Square
Adjustable Try Square Mechanics Video Link

Dovetail Layout and Alignment 
David Barron Magnetic Dovetail Sawing Guide 
David Barron Dovetail Alignment Board
Paul Sellers Dovetail Layout Guide

Saws
Gramercy Dovetail Saw Instructions [pdf]


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## jmartel

Alright, sign me up.


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## CFrye

I'm in! PM sent. Let the procrastination begin!


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## wormil

I'm in but have no idea what I will build yet and probably won't think much about it until after Christmas, I have a pretty full slate until then. Have to do an ornament for the swap first.


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## KelvinGrove

Sign me up as well. I have a few ideas.


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## terryR

Yep, sign me up…PM forthcoming.
No idea what to build yet…


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## ErikF

I'm in! PM on the way…


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## August

How do I join this ?? Anyway if I get a chance to join I would like to know the rules ..


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## AgentTwitch

I have you down JMartel, Candy, Rick M., Kevin Grove, Terry, and Erik.

August, to joint the build, you only have to agree to the conditions at the top of the forum. You can build any tool used on making dovetails. You just need to comit to the swap by the end of November (you have time to think about this) and have the completed tool(s) shipped to your assigned LJ by March 2,2015.


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## Tugboater78

Pm sent, no idea what to make but have some vague ideas. Hoping I can make something worthy.


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## Iguana

I'm in. Can I request a dovetail saw?


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## john2005

Ive already started procrastinating….on deciding if I'm in or not….

I think I'm in. Just gotta see how a few things pan out here in the next week or two.


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## KelvinGrove

Found a very nice piece for making handles today… Excited about this already!


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## Woodmaster1

I am in. I will start after Christmas.


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## JoeMcGlynn

I'm on the fence…need to think about this before I commit. But it sounds like a lot of fun, and lots of options for what to build. Dovetail templates, dividers, a dovetail saw, marking gauge, a chisel just for chopping and paring dovetails.

Great idea, and kudos to "AgentTwitch" for organizing it, I know this takes a lot of oversight to make it fun for everyone.


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## AgentTwitch

Great! I am tracking build interest by Tugboater78, Mark Kornell, john2005, and Woodmaster1. Remember, that you have until the end of the month to commit to the build, so take some time to think about it if you need to.

If you are interested, remember to private message me with your first and last name, and address. I don't need to know your build item(s) right away, but towards mid build, I should have a good idea of your projects for the swap.

Thanks!


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## PoohBaah

Sounds like a fun swap and I have been wanting to learn how to cut dovetails. So this woudl be a great step forward.


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## ToddJB

PM sent. I'm in! Thanks Twitch for putting this one on.


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## ToddJB

Pic I found online for a handmade dovetail kit:


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## mudflap4869

Hey ! Unlike Candy even I can get something built in 4 months, so I am in.


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## CL810

In!


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## wormil

Okay, PM sent. I decided on a tool and will probably include something extra.


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## AgentTwitch

Excellent! I have you down PoohBaah, ToodJB, mudflap4869, CL810, and Rick M. Welcome to the build, gentlemen.

James, be careful…I am pretty sure Candy knows where you live…

Also, if you have any turned brass, copper, or steel needs, ErikF is the man. His prices are very reasonable and he is a true professional to work with. For those who may have an interest in building a saw, Erik also sells slotted saw backs, and saw plates.

Contact ErikF here


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## RPhillips

I'm in!

Missed the last few swaps, but seeing that I really enjoyed the plane swap, I'm all over this one.


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## BigRedKnothead

Of course I'm in too. Just hope I don't get assigned someone who I've already sent some of my DT crap to;-)


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## jmartel

> Also, if you have any turned brass, copper, or steel needs, ErikF is the man. His prices are very reasonable and he is a true professional to work with. For those who may have an interest in building a saw, Erik also sells slotted saw backs, and saw plates.
> 
> - AgentTwitch


August also offers to do some metalworking for a lot of people.

http://lumberjocks.com/August


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## BigRedKnothead

Alright here goes. We usually have some good knowledge and resources shared on these swaps. Norm can add any of it to OP he likes, or we'll just keep helpin each other.

Some tidbits on marking knives. It helps to have a lathe, but it's not mandatory. There are several types out there that are not turned. Example:








This can be made with an old planer blade etc. 
-

For DTs I really like the thin spear type like Blue spruce and all the fine tool makers use. A reasonable way to get one is to rob the knife out of Lee Valley striking knife. 
That's what I did for this one:









Even cheaper than that, you could fashion your own from a jigsaw blade like Derek Cohen does here:
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/A%20Knife%20for%20Marking%20Dovetails.html
I just think installing the blade is a lot simpler than Cohen makes it seem;-)

Hope it helps.


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## CFrye

Great tips and links, Red. I'm currently reading Mafe's blog series on Dovetail chisels. Starts here.


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## BigRedKnothead

^Ohhh., the skew chisels are a great idea Candy!


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## terryR

Nice knife, Red!
Hey, I don't mind getting more of YOUR shop tools!


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## ToddJB

Here a good little picture article on making a David Barron dovetail guide


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## JoeMcGlynn

On the subject of marking knives, I've had really good results with my Rob Cosman marking knife.

I have a really nice spear point knife from Blue Spruce that I use for all sorts of other joinery, but I like the Cosman knife better for dovetails. The blade is thinner, and with a bevel on both sides of the blade you can angle is to match the bevel and get a really crisp mark to saw to. With a thicker spear point knife you have some bruising on the wrong side of the mark (I probably mark more deeply than some folks, but if I can't see the line clearly I'm toast when I go to saw or pare)


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## BigRedKnothead

> Here a good little picture article on making a David Barron dovetail guide
> 
> - ToddJB


Yep, those are easy to make too. Here's the David Barron Dovetail video for those who aren't familiar with his guides. 





I used the link to make my own guides awhile back:









Just need some 3/4" rare earth magnets like this:
http://www.amazon.com/BYKES-Neodymium-Extremly-Powerful-Refrigerator/dp/B00A5TD6CA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415199782&sr=8-1&keywords=3+4+rare+earth+magnets


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## August

ok i want to join.


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## AgentTwitch

Welcome to the build ChadRat6458, RPhillips, BigRedKnothead, and August McCormick Lehman III!

Great links and references for the swap folks! Keep em coming!

I have had some requests for a dovetail saw, a magnetic sawing guide, and skew chisels if anyone is interested in fufilling these requests. You do not have to respond here as some of you have already informed me of your builds. I am tracking them ;-)

Also, I am going to go on the record that I want somone to make an exact replica of the studley tool chest and all of the items in it for me. I think that would be fair…


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## CFrye

I'll get right on that, Norm! Rats!! The printer is out of ink! Maybe some one else…


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## GMatheson

Sign me up too Norm.


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## AgentTwitch

GMatheson, welcome to the build! I will put you down for the Studley Tool Chest


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## GMatheson

Sounds good. I just need to put in an order for some ebony and ivory. Might not make the deadline though


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## shipwright

I'm on the fence at the moment but I do like the spirit that these swaps have. I'll likely join this one.

I have made the David Barron guide and found it way too powerful with rare earth magnets. When I went back and read the instructions again I realized that the term "rare earth" was never used. If I made another (and now I may) I would either go with standard magnets or a smaller, maybe 1/2" RE magnets. I have the Lee Valley one which works very well and it has much less magnet power.


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## JoeMcGlynn

I made the caliper that is in the right side of the Studley cabinet (it's a bit of a "where's waldo" to find it), now I just need to crank out the rest of the tools…


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## JoeMcGlynn

+1 Paul, I'm squarely on the fence but really enjoy watching this and am likely to jump in. Maybe I need to get my Chevalet finished before the sign up deadline so I don't feel so behind on projects.

I'm curious about your comment on the rare earth magnets. I was thinking of building this tenon fixture and was imagining using rare earth magnets. I checked the write up by Derek Cohen and he actually does say "four rare earth magnets". Thoughts?

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/107534



> I m on the fence at the moment but I do like the spirit that these swaps have. I ll likely join this one.
> 
> I have made the David Barron guide and found it way too powerful with rare earth magnets. When I went back and read the instructions again I realized that the term "rare earth" was never used. If I made another (and now I may) I would either go with standard magnets or a smaller, maybe 1/2" RE magnets. I have the Lee Valley one which works very well and it has much less magnet power.
> 
> - shipwright


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## ShaneA

If procrastination and last minute builds are allowed. I will be in too. Thanks for taking the lead.


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## waho6o9

I'm on the fence as well, trying to decide what to make…..

And since GMatheson's making the Studley Tool Chest I'll 
try and make something else.


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## terryR

Joe, those are gorgeous calipers!

Hate to admit it, but I would be challenged to cut a straight line WITH a jig! Just something I have to overcome…Love Derek Cohen's jig…definitely complex, but looks powerful.

Guys, look on Google for rare earth magnets. I got some from magnets.com or something similar. They come in hundreds of sizes and strengths…depending on whether you want to hold a saw plate next to a guide, or a No.8 on the till. LOL. I even scored some 3/4" magnets that are rated for 16 pounds, and they weren't kidding!

These will lift a framing hammer off the floor! But, so far, I cannot find an epoxy that will secure them to wood.  They need another layer of material over them..

Hmmmm…build a Studley to swap or a hundred tiny wedges to fill someone's DT gaps?


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## JayT

I'm still debating, as well. First problem is how to build the Studley for less than $50. After that is figuring out if I really have the time to commit. 

Right now leaning toward not participating, but will follow along no matter which way the decision comes down.


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## Ripthorn

Sign me up, dude! I was so bummed that I had to drop out of the saw swap, but I'm ready to go on this one. I got a bunch of small pieces of really nice exotics just waiting to come out and play.


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## jmartel

> I m on the fence at the moment but I do like the spirit that these swaps have. I ll likely join this one.
> 
> I have made the David Barron guide and found it way too powerful with rare earth magnets. When I went back and read the instructions again I realized that the term "rare earth" was never used. If I made another (and now I may) I would either go with standard magnets or a smaller, maybe 1/2" RE magnets. I have the Lee Valley one which works very well and it has much less magnet power.
> 
> - shipwright


I think it depends on the strength of your magnets. I've made a couple with rare earth magnets and don't find it to be overly strong. It's a very useful jig, regardless. My practice dovetails significantly improved with that jig than without.


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## donwilwol

I'm in the same boat as JayT. I hate to miss another, but I've been a little strapped for time lately. I liked it when you committed when the piece was done. We'll see how the next couple of weeks go.


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## BigRedKnothead

Ya, shipwright makes me wonder how thick the magnets are in Barron's guides. As I noted with the guides I've made:









The rare earth magnets 3/4" wide….but only 1/16" thick. The strength seems just about right for me.


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## wormil

Magnetism decreases over distance by the square reciprocal of a piece of pie or something like that, so countersinking the magnets by a hair or two might do the trick if they are too strong.


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## BigRedKnothead

Interesting. I try to get them flush….or barely recessed, because obviously the saw will get wonky of the magnet is sticking out like a bubble.


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## jmartel

I put mine just below flush. You don't want the magnets to scratch up the saw.


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## BigRedKnothead

Little squares of UHMW tape over the magnet takes care of that.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32182&cat=1,110,43466,32182


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## jmartel

> Little squares of UHMW tape over the magnet takes care of that.
> 
> http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32182&cat=1,110,43466,32182
> 
> - BigRedKnothead


Yeah, I've been meaning to pick some up. That's pretty expensive for tape though. Woodcraft sells it cheaper, even.

But when I was talking about it being recessed, I think mine are recessed maybe 1/64". Not much at all.


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## BigRedKnothead

Ya, I was just giving an example. I think I got some on amazon for $5. Pretty handy stuff to have in the shop.


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## sepeck

> -EDIT-
> For DTs I really like the thin spear type like Blue spruce and all the fine tool makers use. A reasonable way to get one is to rob the knife out of Lee Valley striking knife.
> That s what I did for this one:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -EDIT-
> 
> - BigRedKnothead


Something to note, rather then rob the blade from the Striking Knife, Czeck Edge seems to have blade kits for the same price without all that pesky robbing stuff  http://czeckedge.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=6

Also, to hell with it. Sign me up for this one. I simply didn't have time for the saw swap but since I just found out that we're staying home over Christmas this year (YAY), I have the time to participate.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I don't think there's anything I can contribute to this swap… maybe the next one. But I'll follow along!


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## Hammerthumb

Aw, come on Smitty. I'm sure you would have a lot to contribute! I guess I can do this swap also. Count me in.

What say you Smitty?

PM coming shortly Twitch.


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## AgentTwitch

ShaneA, ripthorn, hammerthumb and sepeck you are in! For those not sure of joining, come on in, the waters warm!


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## shipwright

The magnets I used originally were actually closer to an inch (7/8" maybe) but certainly more than 1/16". There is no question that they are much stronger than the Lee Valley jig's magnets. I get my magnets from Lee Valley as well and they sell little steel cups for them that you install with a screw, then drop in the magnet and it stays. I think that a 1/2" Lee Valley RE magnet would be great. I have some so I'll give it a try. ....... I suppose that means ….... I'm in.

I will PM shortly. One question however, do we know in advance who the recipient of our particular tool will be….... say if one were to want to add the recipient's initials on the tool?


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## bobasaurus

Okay, sign me up. I missed out on the last layout tool swap due to work travel, so I'm looking forward to this one. I haven't decided what tool to build yet, though… decisions, decisions.


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## JoeMcGlynn

On the subject of marking knives, in addition to the Czek Edge blade, I've seen people use a jigsaw blade (after grinding the teeth off). The metal cutting blades as likely M2 or some similar kind of HSS and should make a good blade. You could also grind one out of a small piece of O1 or similar tool steel and heat treat it yourself.

I haven't made a marking knife, but I made a turnscrew (screwdriver) last year (ish) with a similar construction. Turned handle, with a hole the width of the blade shank. I cut a dowel in half so that the whole assembly was a snug fit into the hole, then assembled it with the ferule and some epoxy.


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## jmartel

> Ya, I was just giving an example. I think I got some on amazon for $5. Pretty handy stuff to have in the shop.
> 
> - BigRedKnothead


I ended up buying some off of Amazon anyway for $7. But I get 5 yards for it, so it should be fine.


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## RPhillips

> On the subject of marking knives, in addition to the Czek Edge blade, I ve seen people use a jigsaw blade (after grinding the teeth off). The metal cutting blades as likely M2 or some similar kind of HSS and should make a good blade. You could also grind one out of a small piece of O1 or similar tool steel and heat treat it yourself.
> 
> I haven t made a marking knife, but I made a turnscrew (screwdriver) last year (ish) with a similar construction. Turned handle, with a hole the width of the blade shank. I cut a dowel in half so that the whole assembly was a snug fit into the hole, then assembled it with the ferule and some epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - JoeMcGlynn


That is beautiful. I will have give that a try one day.


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## JoeMcGlynn

here is another approach to making a dovetail marking knife by David Barron. His knives are beautiful, and they use a pre-made blade that is fairly inexpensive (box of 50 for $13 on eBay), it seems similar to x-acto blades. The sharpening approach he uses is interesting too.

The article from F&C is here: http://www.woodworkersinstitute.com/page.asp?p=1332


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## BigRedKnothead

^Joe, what are the knives called you use from ebay. Do you have a link?


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## JoeMcGlynn

From the article, it calls them "SWANN MORTON BOX SM 01", I ordered a box of 50 for $12 including shipping from this auction (plenty more available): http://www.ebay.com/itm/400599736790

You'll need a bit of brass tubing, 1/2" OD x 1/16" wall. For example: this from online metals.com

And probably a pen turning blank or two. Or 50 

PS Disclaimer: I'm not in the swap yet, and not saying that I'm making this for the swap if I do sign up. If I can finish my Chevalet before the sign up cut off I'll probably join, but I'm worried about overcommitting.



> ^Joe, what are the knives called you use from ebay. Do you have a link?
> 
> - BigRedKnothead


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## BigRedKnothead

^Sweet Joe. Those blades look a lot like the ones Barron is using. Wonder if I'll ever use up all 50


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## JoeMcGlynn

I'm pretty sure those *are* the blades David uses-since he wrote the article I linked 

It's a pretty efficient construction method he uses, just a sawn slot for the blade with a brass tube for the ferule.


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## CL810

Joe, please let us know how long it takes for your order to arrive.

I've never been able to find that blade # from a US supplier. I've tried the #25 in a metal handle and it is less than desirable, flex and slot runs too far into the tip. Points on scalpel blades will break off which makes the SM01 more desirable. Also, from my experience, scalpel blades don't hold their edge for very long. The marking knives I made using O1 steel hold the edge longer.

Having said all that I would still like to experiment with the #01.


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## JoeMcGlynn

Sure, I'll let you know when they arrive. I'll almost certainly make a couple of marking knives to give a gifts to friends, so I'll be able to see how they work out in practice.

I used x-acto blades to scribe around the details for an inlay experiment, and the tip broke off pretty quickly, but the geometry on the SM01 is completely different. It will be interesting.

My favorite dovetail knife (the Rob Cosman) has a blade that is fairly thin and has held up really well. The replacement blades for that are another ready-made option for marking knives, but they are fairly expensive by comparison at about $20 each.












> Joe, please let us know how long it takes for your order to arrive.
> 
> - CL810


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## ShaneA

Red, let's split a box. Heck, I will order it and send em to you for free. I need 50 like I need an additional hole in my head.


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## shipwright

Maybe ten of us should get together and buy a box. Anybody need more than five marking knives?


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## CFrye

I'd like a smaller #, Paul. Count me in.


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## GMatheson

I could use a few of them there blades too


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## ToddJB

I'd be in.


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## ShaneA

I have already ordered a box. I will let you know when they come, and I would be happy to send some out.


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## BigRedKnothead

^lawl. Sorry Shane, had to go coach. I ordered a box too.


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## shipwright

Trouble is, they'd be a buck a blade by the time shipping costs were in.

OK, (not trying to get rich) if more than ten people contact me I'll order a box and do the mail-outs for a buck a blade.
I may regret this …......


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## intelligen

I'm in!


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## RPhillips

I'd be interested in a few of those blades too.

No lathe for the handle, but I can figure something out


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## CFrye

Rob, did you see the fish tailed handle in the linked article?
Nice.


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## CFrye

Paul, a buck a blade or per mailing? plus the cost of the blade?


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## Ripthorn

I usually use jigsaw blades for marking knives, but I would be in for a couple blades if anyone wants to let me piggyback.


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## shipwright

I gave it very little thought Candy. I don't need to get $45 for $10.20 worth of blades but it is going to be a bit of a pita to deal with at a couple of bucks at a time. Conceivably, if not likely, I could be mailing 45 separate envelopes. 
The price isn't really worth talking a about.


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## CFrye

Totally understand, Paul. No worries.


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## Ripthorn

I was thinking that one way of doing the blade thing easier is if each interested party sends a self addressed stamped envelope plus whatever the cost may be (couple bucks?) for a couple blades, the person providing blades wouldn't have to worry about addressing and mailing a ton of envelopes, just drop in a couple, seal the envelope drop it in the mailbox. Then again, that may not work for some reason, but just thought I would throw it out there.


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## CL810

^ Smart


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## wormil

The same seller offers 10 blades for $4.50 shipped.


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## shipwright

That sounds a lot easier.


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## JoeMcGlynn

More inspiration if anyone is looking for ideas:

*Magnetic Dovetail Sawing Guide*
http://www.woodworkersinstitute.com/page.asp?p=1458









*Dovetail Alignment Board*
http://davidbarronfurniture.blogspot.com/2012/11/dovetail-alignment-boards.html









*Dovetail Layout Guide*
https://paulsellers.com/2011/12/making-the-paul-sellers-dovetail-template/


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## JoeMcGlynn

I was on my way out to the shop to work on a project, but got distracted thinking about this swap. I swear I'm going out to do actual woodworking after this post, no more virtual sawdust…

Anyway, I was thinking about how I'd make a chisel for dovetailing. I wanted a shoulder/bolster arrangement so it could be used for chopping and paring out the waste. For fun I did it with a London pattern handle with a grass ferule on the back to match the front.

I'm not completely happy with it, I need to tweak the proportions (the front bolster is too long, etc, etc.). I'll refine it if I decide to make it.


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## sepeck

I really enjoy these swap threads for all the resource links that show up. I was unable to do the 2014 saw swap but the resources in the thread were awesome. See several interesting links for this thread as well.


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## BigRedKnothead

^+1

Joe- Very interesting chisel design. That think be helpful for those who love the teensy weensy pins:


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## JoeMcGlynn

I was trying to design something that could be built without a lot of metalworking machinery.

I think this design can be built with a drill, some soft of grinder with a simple fixture and a woodworking lathe for the handle. And a torch and can of oil to harden the chisel steel.



> Joe- Very interesting chisel design. That think be helpful for those who love the teensy weensy pins:
> 
> - BigRedKnothead


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## lateralus819

Is it hard to harden tools? I've thought of building my own chisel.


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## JoeMcGlynn

Not really.

For things that don't have a lot of mass you can use a propane or mapp torch.

Stick with O1 steel, it's pretty forgiving. Heat the first 2"-3" to a dull red-colors are tricky because of ambient light. You want to heat it until the part you're going to harden won't stick to a magnet any more, then plunge it into motor oil or tranny fluid. You need enough oil to draw the heat away, and of course you need to be careful about fire. Keep the heated part submerged, moving in a slow figure-8 pattern for a minute.

At this point your O1 is hard as glass-and just as brittle. You can check it with a slightly worn file, it should just skate across it, hardly biting at all. Now scrub it up with soap and a scrubby pad, and bake it in the oven for an hour at 450. This step is called "tempering", and reduces the hardness (and increases the toughness).

When you're grinding the chisel initially you'll want to leave a tiny bit of extra material (not much, it's going to be a lot harder to shape now) for cleanup.


> Is it hard to harden tools? I ve thought of building my own chisel.
> 
> - lateralus819


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## bobasaurus

I researched the full O1 steel heat treatment procedure for knife making, though it requires access to a digital kiln/oven. It's probably overkill for this, but here is the full process I followed on my latest knife that worked great:


(Optional: coat steel in an anti-scale compound like ATP-641… otherwise be prepared to remove a lot of scale and pitting after the treatment and risk decarb on thin edges.)
Preheat kiln (with steel in it) to 1250 deg F. 
Bring the temperature up to 1475 deg F and hold for at least 10 minutes, more for thicker cross-sections (the hold is needed for the "low alloy" O1 steel's composition to go into solution). 
Quickly quench the steel in canola oil warmed to 125 deg F, agitate rapidly in one direction until cool (for knives, agitate up and down to prevent lateral warping). The warmed oil reduces boiling, improving surface area contact for heat transfer. 
Temper in an oven (a kitchen oven works for this) at 400 deg F, and hold at temperature for 2 hours minimum. Bring to room temperature after (you can quench or not, it doesn't matter here). Some people do this tempering cycle several times, but I've found once to be enough.

You can harden O1 with a torch, but I've heard that the "soak" time at 1475 deg F is important to get the most out of the steel. Another option might be to use 1095 steel, as its heat treatment procedure is supposed to be simpler and it's not "low alloy", so the soak isn't necessary (and it's cheaper than O1).


----------



## AgentTwitch

LOL, I spend a day away from the computer and the swap posts doubled, then all of a sudden I am purchasing 50 surgical blades from the UK. What just happened?!

Great resources and tutorial sharing. This is great!

Now I just need to find an ebay seller that wants to send me 50 African Blackwood turning blanks. Oh, and a lathe. This build might be a bit more expensive for me than I originally thought…


----------



## terryR

Ohhh, Allen has a kiln for heat-treating…sweet! I'm still using Mapp gas and canola oil quench. I bought a dozen fire bricks, but need 3dozen to really form a small kiln. 

Now you guys got me all excited about the swap! Would love to change the shape and colors on some O1…


----------



## August

> ^+1
> 
> Joe- Very interesting chisel design. That think be helpful for those who love the teensy weensy pins:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - BigRedKnothead


Nice red

Ok question this will be my first time to join.

And I don't want to screw it up.
Am I gonna be given a job or some one will ask for a particular tool?
To make?


----------



## JayT

Getting caught up.

I have one of David Barron's marking knives wtih a Macasser Ebony handle. Purchased it when I got the dovetail guide and it is sweet!










Those of you getting the blades will be pleased-they are strong but thin and leave a great line with little effort. The only downside for some will be that they are sharpened with a bevel on both sides and I know some people like a single bevel knife. Had to make a small adjustment in how I used the knife to accomodate, but Barron's handle with the thumb notch is perfectly aligned to make that an easy adjustment.


----------



## CL810

Good news on the blade.


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

I'm eager to try the blades myself. I don't think the bevel is a big deal personally-the Cosman knife I favor for transferring tails is set up that way. You just tip it slightly, approximating the bevel angle. With such a thin blade the potential error is smaller than I can accurately saw to


----------



## wormil

> Ok question this will be my first time to join.
> 
> And I don t want to screw it up.
> Am I gonna be given a job or some one will ask for a particular tool?
> To make?
> 
> - August McCormick Lehman III


Make whatever you want within confines of the theme, dovetail tools. When done send a picture to AgentTwitch.


----------



## Mosquito

Oh alright, I'm in!


----------



## waho6o9

Bump it up with some ideas. LOL


----------



## wormil

Speaking of … did anyone see that crazy tapered sliding mitered dovetail on The Woodwright's Shop? Roy called it a rising diagonal dovetail.

Here's the video if you missed it.
http://video.pbs.org/video/2365309216/


----------



## Mosquito

I did, and it made me almost want to make an English tool chest rather than a dutch lol


----------



## CFrye

Nice, Rick! 
Here's another by Matthias Wandel


----------



## jmartel

Thanks for the video, Candy. I hadn't seen that before.


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

It's amazing how caught up one can get looking at variations of tools like marking gauges, knives, and so forth.

This is a neat idea, although the tools in my "dovetail kit" would be different


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

And for those of us who recently bought a lifetime supply of "surgical" blades from the UK, some might find a home in a marking gauge…










(image from http://norsewoodsmith.com/content/marking-and-cutting-gauges)


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

I tweaked the proportions on my chisel design, I like it better. I even drew up some "plans" for it on my blog


----------



## AgentTwitch

Joe, I like the look of that dovetail chisel! I have a set of skew chisels which serve a purpose, I can use them as a paring chisel if I wanted to, but they just don't seem to be a good multi-tasking tool. I like the style of this chisel because you can use them to clean the corners of tails and pins as well as the all important cleaning of pins in half blind dovetails. It could be use for paring and regular bench chisel tasks if you had to. I am debating getting rid of my skew chisels in favor of a fish tail pattern for this reason, but I am thinking your solution is better. Long way of saying, I like it. Oh, and I probably wont get rid of my other chisels because that would be completely unacceptable as a tool junkie.


----------



## midnightww

Count me in!


----------



## AgentTwitch

Bobasaurus, ShipWright, Rob, Mos and Midnight, I am tracking your participation in the dovetail tool swap. You are in! I see a few others lurking in the shadows, wondering if they should join. The answer is still yes, but you have until the last day of November to make that choice.

For those of you looking to build a saw, WinsorSaw.com is 3-4 weeks behind schedule, so make sure you hit up ErikF, or the other vendors listed at the top of the thread.


----------



## JayT

> Speaking of … did anyone see that crazy tapered sliding mitered dovetail on The Woodwright s Shop? Roy called it a rising diagonal dovetail.
> 
> Here s the video if you missed it.
> http://video.pbs.org/video/2365309216/
> 
> - Rick M.


Cool joint.

Is it just me or does Roy look like he could play the older Moonlight Graham in a remake of Field of Dreams?


----------



## waho6o9

Question for the esteemed panel and guests:

Which dovetail chisels are used the most generally speaking?

1/4, 1/2, 3/4

1/8, 3/8, 5/8

Thank you


----------



## Mosquito

depends on the operation and the size of the dovetails 

For me, whatever fits the size of the pins, and is sharp. And one that fits the size of the tails, and is sharp lol


----------



## waho6o9

Cool, thanks Mos


----------



## Mosquito

Probably not the most helpful, but I rarely pay attention to the actual dimension of the chisel I use


----------



## waho6o9

Just getting ideas to make something and I figured there's no 
wrong answers to which chisels to use, however, drawers are ususally
1/2 - 3/4 stock and maybe there's some preferred sizes that were used.

These look cool


----------



## August

Question 
What are your thoughts on using a carbide as the cutter on marking gauges?


----------



## waho6o9

Carbide would work. Maybe keep sharp with a diamond file?


----------



## ErikF

Carbide would work but it is pretty unforgiving if dropped or abused. I use carbide scribes on spring steel and carbide cutters on both metal and wood, it's great for tough steels but doesn't perform at the same level as tool steel or HSS when cutting wood or soft metals, in my opinion. It's also less convenient to sharpen, especially if chipped.


----------



## August

Sounds good 
Waho
And thanks Erik

Well I'm trying to get the feel of what people thanks so atleast whatever I'm making for the swap. That they will like ok cool


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

Oh-oh, something virtual is happening…










(or, said differently, virtually nothing is happening in the shop tonight)


----------



## lateralus819

Joe what program is that?


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

Hi Kevin, it's SolidWorks. It's an expensive CAD program, I only have it as a leftover from a manufacturing business I owned.

I looked again at the Kenyon dovetail saw in from the Seaton chest and realized the front of the handle is different on that one. I changed this to match the Seaton saw. I'll try to make some patterns for this later, but I'm out of energy tonight.












> Joe what program is that?
> 
> - lateralus819


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

Something came in the mail today, it's keeping the brass tube that came last week company in the shop.


----------



## lateralus819

I gotta remember to pick some of those up when i get my lathe up and running!


----------



## CL810

I just ordered mine. I don't understand how the seller can do this. Shipped from England right?


----------



## wormil

It's communism. No, actually Ebay subsidizes the shipping of certain items. Basically you ship the item to ebay and they crate up a bunch of things and pay for the whole lot to be sent overseas. I think they call it their global shipping program. I don't know that is happening with these blades but it would explain the cheap shipping.


----------



## AgentTwitch

My package arrived from England today. Fast shipping! Now what to make…


----------



## BigRedKnothead

^hehe. I got mine too. Seems really cheap for 50 blades. Can't wait to make a couple knives.


----------



## Mosquito

got mine too…

Dovetail themed swap turns into marking knife swap lol


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

I picked up a handful of pen turning blanks on the way home, so maybe this weekend I can make a couple of knives.


----------



## CL810

I thought the blades were too good to be true so I never ordered them….until yesterday? Lol


----------



## RPhillips

well If anyone wants to sell me a few of those blades, shoot me a PM.


----------



## AgentTwitch

This arrived today. Rikon 70-220VSR. I was a little surprised to see it on the porch.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Ohh..Very nice Norm. Welcome to the addiction


----------



## AgentTwitch

Thanks Red. I am looking forward to the opening the box. Maybe tomorrow morning!


----------



## ToddJB

The cost to make that marking knife just jumped dramatically, Norm. Ha.


----------



## ErikF

Norm, glad to see my tool for the swap made it to you in one piece. Not sure how you will turn a dovetail with it…


----------



## CFrye

Congratulations, Norm!


----------



## waho6o9

That's awesome Norm, congrats.

I like the switch on the right side, it's safer than having it on the left 
side like my Delta.

Happy turnings!


----------



## AgentTwitch

I am looking forward to using it. I brought it inside to the shop this morning and unpacked everything. Havent turned it on yet. Pretty excited to give it a try. I used to have an American made JET 12-32 lathe, but lost it, and every other tool, to a house fire a little over 1 year ago. I dont really feel like this lathe is downsizing much as the motor is larger, has an indexing wheel, variable speed, and you can add an extension to make it 42" if necessary.

Todd, The cost of a single marking knife just climbed well above $50! Not sure if I am going to make a marking knife for the swap or not. I hadnt intended on it until Joe posted links to those blades! LOL

Erik, you are very kind. I will make sure to send you my first turned dovetail along with the invoice.


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

Sorry for the marking knife distraction!

Maybe someone should make a marking gauge…like this? You could have settings for a drawer with different thickness parts and both half blind and through dovetails all together.


----------



## August

> I thought the blades were too good to be true so I never ordered them….until yesterday? Lol
> 
> - CL810


LOL








Rob
If you look at the pics there's a acme Rod below it


----------



## ErikF

> Sorry for the marking knife distraction!
> 
> Maybe someone should make a marking gauge…like this? You could have settings for a drawer with different thickness parts and both half blind and through dovetails all together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Man, that is awesome. Time to hit the drawing board.
> 
> - JoeMcGlynn


----------



## AgentTwitch

Very interesting design. I woulwould forget which pin was which


----------



## shipwright

Not being cheap here, I just hate waste. Would anyone like to sell me five blades for five bucks? ...... or whatever?
If I buy 50, 48 of them will just sit around until I die. This way only three will.


----------



## CL810

Paul, send me your address. When mine come 5 will sent your way.


----------



## shipwright

Thanks Clayton.


----------



## wormil

> Not being cheap here, I just hate waste. Would anyone like to sell me five blades for five bucks? ...... or whatever?
> If I buy 50, 48 of them will just sit around until I die. This way only three will.
> 
> - shipwright


Same ebayer also sells 10 blades for $4.50 shipped.


----------



## bobasaurus

Okay, I broke down and bought a box of those blades. At the woodworking show today I picked up an assortment of random exotic pen turning blanks for the handles. Now to find some ferrule material.


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

I have my parents visiting for the weekend, so not much shop time (although my mom did make a candlestick holder on the lathe!!) all the parts are laid out for a knife, I might get a few minutes to do this today. Knife blade, pen blank and a bit of brass tube. Two feel of tube was more money than 50 blades' but if I make 20 marking knives (I wont, but…) that is like $3-$6 each depending on the wood. If I make one and decide its a "fail" (unlikely) I'm still only out $35 ish.


----------



## terryR

>


^Reminds me of the Veritas 10-sided gauge…for April Fool's Day! 
Goodness, you'd need a piece of tape on each side to remember what the gauge is set for! 

But…the build would be awesome! Applewood and brass…would love to see the backside of this guy…with all those pins sticking up mid-beam…


----------



## BigRedKnothead

> Okay, I broke down and bought a box of those blades. At the woodworking show today I picked up an assortment of random exotic pen turning blanks for the handles. Now to find some ferrule material.
> 
> - bobasaurus


That's the easy part Allen. They have 1/2" and 3/8" brass tubing at any home store. I just cut to length with a hacksaw and clean it up with a disc sander, grinder….whatever.


----------



## AgentTwitch

I picked up some aluminum 1/2" OD pipe with a 1/16" inner wall. Curious to see how it compares to brass for machining. I like the silver look with the dark woods I picked up. Much less expensive as well.


----------



## Mosquito

Hmm… I have some black nickel plated brass tubing from a computer build… wonder if that'll work lol


----------



## AgentTwitch

Only if you cover it with heat shrink tubing


----------



## Mosquito

I could heat shrink the handle for better grip lol


----------



## Slyy

OMG, I wish school wasn't, you know like uh, so time consuming and hard and stuff!!
Would love to participate but don't want to risk getting too caught up (as I have most of this semester) to turn something out. I will happily follow the work though and live vicariously through my fellow LJ's all the same if that's okay? Anxious to return to the world of "free time" but unlikely to happen soon!


----------



## AgentTwitch

Folks, we are getting close to the sign-up suspense for this tool swap. Please take a moment to look for your name below and either drop me a private message to add you to the list or remind me that you signed up and do not see your name below. Five more days! For those that are lurking, you know you want to play…

AgentTwitch
Cfrye
ErikF
Tugboater 78
Woodmaster1
KelvinGrove
Poohbaah
ToddJB
mudflap4869
CL810
Rick M.
ChadRat6458
RPhillips
BigRedKnothead
August McCormick Lehman III
ShaneA
Ripthorn
Bobasaurus
Shipwright
Rob
Mosquito
midnightww


----------



## AgentTwitch

I turned on the new lathe last night and knocked out one of the David Barron dovetail marking knives. The new lathe is sweet! It is so quiet, and smooth, I would highly recommend the Rikon midi. I would also say that the instructions found here on how to make a dovetail knife are very easy to follow. 
I ended up using aluminum for the ferrule and it looks pretty good with the kingwood. I think brass would look classier…I ended up making the thumb recess a little too deep for my preferences. I will have to put the knife into practice to see if I prefer it to the Blue Spruce. One thing is for sure, my handle isn't any where as nice


----------



## jmartel

I don't see my name on there. I'd still like to participate.


----------



## waho6o9

PM sent, let's do this.


----------



## AgentTwitch

JMartel, not sure why your name didn't copy over. Added you and Waho


----------



## GMatheson

Looks like you missed me too norm. I forgive you tho


----------



## Hammerthumb

thought I had sent a PM also. Am I in?


----------



## Iguana

Also missed me. PM on its way…


----------



## AgentTwitch

I hid columns in my spread sheet….sorry to confuse everyone. I wondered why the list looked so small, lol.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

> I turned on the new lathe last night and knocked out one of the David Barron dovetail marking knives. The new lathe is sweet! It is so quiet, and smooth, I would highly recommend the Rikon midi. I would also say that the instructions found here on how to make a dovetail knife are very easy to follow.
> I ended up using aluminum for the ferrule and it looks pretty good with the kingwood. I think brass would look classier…I ended up making the thumb recess a little too deep for my preferences. I will have to put the knife into practice to see if I prefer it to the Blue Spruce. One thing is for sure, my handle isn t any where as nice
> 
> - AgentTwitch


Norm, every used copper for ferrules? Easy to obtain little plumbing fittings. Probably my fav material for ferrules.


----------



## AgentTwitch

Red, I havent, but I see they are popular for custom handles. I will probably try them soon.


----------



## AgentTwitch

Just a reminder that I will need shipping information for those who might have replied on the forum, but didnt send me a PM.


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

I made a first attempt at a marking knife-not that I'm making this for the swap mind you. This was Claro Walnut, and the crazy burl-y grain made it a bit tough to turn (not counting the fact that I'm a neophyte turner), and when I started to saw the blade slot the neck snapped off. I was being really gentle with the saw too.

Just not a good piece of wood for this particular project. I'll try again while the turkey is on the grill.


----------



## terryR

^bummer, looks like gorgeous wood, Joe.

Any way you could cut the slot while the wood piece is thicker? And insert a sacrificial piece in the slot before turning? Burl is challenging! Maybe some thin super glue to saturate the area, and stabilize it before cutting the slot?

Better luck after Turkey!


----------



## AgentTwitch

I like the acorn style back of the knife, adds a nice touch. Too bad it snapped on you, Joe. You will have to show us your post-Turkey version.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Norm, ya I've learned the hard way that marking knives are a bit small for burly grained woods. Seems they require the strength of straight grain on very thin parts.

Also, you can turn with the ferrule towards live center side. Then you don't have to cut that side.


----------



## ErikF

If any of you lathe owners out there want some figured claro walnut let me know. I'm about to cut up a large piece for saw handles and will only be able to use some of it due to some checking. I do believe that a lot of it would be useful for turning…not 100 percent on this until I cut it up but would be willing to pass some on to you guys if you want it. Let me know.


----------



## terryR

Sure, Erik, throw me a piece in the next box coming my way. 

Nice, Red, you learn quickly! I always have the pre-drilled end with the ferrule pushed by the cone in the tailstock. Nice looking 60 degree cone, BTW! And elegant handle! You'll be on to pens in a month or so…


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

This one came out better. Not perfect, but I'm sure by the time I work my way through the box of 50 blades it will all be dialed in.

The turkey came out fabulous, by the way. I did a bacon weave on top to help baste it, then tossed the cooked bacon in a blender with the giblets and stock I've been simmering all day to make the base for the gravy. Add in pan drippings, a little bullion and seasoning and a pint of heavy cream and it's all good.

It may be tomorrow before I can move to get out the shop to glue this knife together…


----------



## CL810

Nice!


----------



## ToddJB

You guys are killing it on the lathe.

Erik, I'd be down for some walnut if you have any left over.


----------



## CFrye

PM sent, Eric.


----------



## ErikF

> You guys are killing it on the lathe.
> 
> Erik, I d be down for some walnut if you have any left over.
> 
> - ToddJB


Sounds good, Todd. PM me if you have a specific size in mind.


----------



## AgentTwitch

Red, that maple handle looks awesome! Joe, another excellent handle. I am thinking that after I make 50 of these I will figure this out. Good thing the blades are cheap!

I experimented with putting an index finger recess on the ferule which feels nice when holding. I don't think Jeske or Barron have to worry about me taking over their market.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

> I experimented with putting an index finger recess on the ferule which feels nice when holding. I don t think Jeske or Barron have to worry about me taking over their market.
> 
> - AgentTwitch


I hear ya Norm. Fun to make your own though.

Joe, sorry I called you Norm earlier;-)


----------



## AgentTwitch

Okay, this will be my last knife post for a while. Thinking I want to get the brass tube after all.

I have been working on my real tool swap project as well. Wish this lumber wasn't so pricy.


----------



## waho6o9

Nice work Norm and a clean book matched resaw

on the band saw.


----------



## terryR

Norm, where did you get the silver tubing? I want some for a set of silverware I'm turning!

BTW, nice knife handle AND bandsaw! Jeez…what kind of blade is that?


----------



## AgentTwitch

Lol Terry. It s aluminum tubing purchased from Home Depot. The saw blade is a 1-1/4" wide Woodmaster CT carbide tooth.


----------



## terryR

^very cool…Thanks!
Don't laugh, but I've even used old TV attenae as ferrules on arrows.


----------



## AgentTwitch

Awesome idea, Terry. I like shop solutions. I was laughing at band saw comment. Big saw, small piece of lumber


----------



## ErikF

Getting warmed up for the swap. Glad I just picked up some more of this claro walnut…


----------



## Tugboater78

At this point i am not sure if i can get a project made, a whole lot of things have been droppes on my shoulders in the last month. Finding time to do much is going to be hard. I dont want to bow out, but do not want to shortchange anyone either.


----------



## CL810

Erik that is pretty!


----------



## ToddJB

Erik, all the colors come together amazingly on that saw.

Tug, do what you need to do. Life happens.


----------



## sepeck

Pretty saw. I need to work up to one at some point.


----------



## AgentTwitch

Erik, that is gorgeous! Great looking dt saw. What do you use as a finish? The copper and the claro are awesome together.

Tug, if you can't do it, no worries. if you find out you still can later on, let me know.


----------



## terryR

Awesome, Erik! The copper looks great with the gold tones in that claro! 
You're gonna put Bad Axe and the others premium saw makers out of business! 

Guess I better get started on something here…


----------



## jmartel

I call dibs on getting Erik's Saw.


----------



## ErikF

Shouldn't have sold my circular saw. The whole butt end of this thing is going to get cut down so anyone who sent me a PM should get a fair amount. It's not all curly but there is also a lot of marbled pattern.


----------



## donwilwol

^oh my!!!


----------



## bobasaurus

Good lord Eric, that is a nice saw and some great-looking wood. I'll PM you to get in on some if possible  .


----------



## PoohBaah

Looks like quite the work out you have ahead of yourself.


----------



## summerfi

Man o' man Erik. Can you share with us who your Claro supplier is?

Looks like you're getting ready to make a saw handle to fit Red's hand.


----------



## CFrye

> .


WOW!


----------



## ToddJB

Dear heavens that's hilariously awesome.


----------



## ErikF

> Man o man Erik. Can you share with us who your Claro supplier is?
> 
> Looks like you re getting ready to make a saw handle to fit Red s hand.
> 
> - summerfi


A friend of my owns and operates Made Lumber Supply in San Diego. He makes frequent trips to Northern California to buy claro walnut slabs and logs. He stays well stocked in slabs and often has nice size cutoffs available. www.Madelumber.com


----------



## sepeck

Wow. What I make will be out of a stack of the Big Leaf Maple I bought earlier this year. Some of it's very nicely figured. I hope it comes out as pretty as that stuff. I picked what I think is an achievable goal but it's something more delicate then I have done before.


----------



## Slyy

That's one of the sexiest action shots I've laid eyes on Erik, 80's slow clap for you sir!


----------



## CFrye

Ha! I headed to the shop intending to work on a prototype. Got side tracked and only just now remembered the plan. Good thing it's still early in the swap calendar.


----------



## terryR

Oh yeah, that's an action shot from the hand tool shop!!! Makes my shoulders sore just looking!

ErikF, I'll be happy to send you a sawz-all as payment for a slice of that!


----------



## DaddyZ

Wow just found this swap…

Please sign me in !!!!!!

Sent PM


----------



## AgentTwitch

Gotcha DaddyZ!

Erik, I see you received my dovetail tool swap gift. Enjoy, buddy!


----------



## CL810

I received my blades today. Anyone not already covered just pm me.


----------



## ToddJB

Hey you metal guys, where are you sourcing your brass flat stock? Is McMaster the cheapest place? And what type of brass should I get?


----------



## summerfi

I get mine from Amazon, ebay, and onlinemetals.com. I've found them to usually be cheaper than MC. I get a 25% off code from onlinemetals about once a week if you decide to go that route. I generally use 360 brass.


----------



## ToddJB

Thanks Bob, do I have to sign up with them for coupons?


----------



## summerfi

No, once you place an order with them, you start getting coupons in your email. I can share the next coupon code with you if you want. I just placed a 30% off order yesterday, but it was the last day for that offer.


----------



## ToddJB

Day late and 30% short… story of my life.

I'd love to take you up on your coupon offer! Thanks Bob.


----------



## August

^sorry Todd 
I thought I had this to watch list what are you looking for?


> ?


----------



## ToddJB

Flat stock. Something around 1/8th thick. Length and width are flexible depending on what I can get my hands on.


----------



## August

Ok I'll check tomorrow at work


----------



## waho6o9

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=brass+flat+bar&_sop=10&_frs=1

I've had good luck on ebay for brass stock.


----------



## ToddJB

Thanks guys.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

I've been making several marking knives with the blades we all bought. I can turn one in about ten minutes….so it's a fun little turning fix. I like to snip the back off the blade a bit. That way you don't need such a long ferrule:









Also, I like to make the flat spots for your thumb and finger with a block plane:









As you were….


----------



## bobasaurus

Could someone who has a SM 01 blade handy tell me the width/height of the rear of the blade (the section that will get inserted into the handle)? I'm trying to figure out the inner diameter of the brass ferrule stock I should buy.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Allen, they're just a hair under 3/8"...so they will fit in 3/8" inside diameter pipe.


----------



## August

red question what holds the blade on your marking knife?
Is it just press fit?
Or glue?
And hypothetically 
If it breakes can you replace the blade? Whit out taking out the ferrule?


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

You cut a kerf into the handle where it fits into the ferule, the blade/handle/ferule all epoxy together. See the article by david barron I linked earlier.


----------



## bobasaurus

Red, another question about the blades: what is the diameter of the big part of the keyhole? I might be able to get a screw all the way through into a threaded insert, that should be sturdy.


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

Of course to cut dovetails you need to lay out the baselines. You could use a square and a marking knife to do that, or you could use something like this:










(I need to learn how to carve, right after I get ahead of the marquetry thing…)


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Allen- round part of keyhole is 3/16".

Auggie- like Joe said, kerf and CA or epoxy.


----------



## bobasaurus

Great, thanks a lot. I'll start planning… I think my blades arrive on Friday.


----------



## AgentTwitch

Allen, you can get 9 knife blanks out of a single 2 X 2 X 6 turning blank as well. Plenty of practice for the final tool swap.

Joe that is pretty sweet. Looks big like a panel gauge.


----------



## sepeck

I've been wondering what preference or difference there is between using something like the surgical blade style vs. the spear point of the pfeil or Czech edge style is? The closest thing I have is a Milwaukee utility knife.

Not having ever made a dove tail yet, it's something I plan on trying on some scrap wood during the holidays. I figure I've had this cheapy Crown Gents saw for over 10 years, I should try it on something other then cutting the occasional dowel.


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

Two thoughts;

First, I taught my 14 year old to dovetail this weekend, and he used the Barron's style knife (surgical blade). It worked really well, as nicely as my favorite Cosman style knife. And his practice joint fit almost perfect right off the saw.










Second thought, the biggest impediment to my being able to saw a dovetail what a gent's saw. I couldn't make a decent cut with that. Your milage may vary, some people prefer them and it's what you have.



> I ve been wondering what preference or difference there is between using something like the surgical blade style vs. the spear point of the pfeil or Czech edge style is? The closest thing I have is a Milwaukee utility knife.
> 
> Not having ever made a dove tail yet, it s something I plan on trying on some scrap wood during the holidays. I figure I ve had this cheapy Crown Gents saw for over 10 years, I should try it on something other then cutting the occasional dowel.
> 
> - sepeck


----------



## AgentTwitch

The spear point marking knives allow you to make a deeper / wider cut with the thicker blade, making registration of your saw plate a little easier. The benefit to the surgical blade style is that the kerf is really thin, allowing you to get the knife in the smallest of gaps when marking pins from tails. It also allows you to get a really accurate line because it is so narrow.

The reason why I purchased 50 of the Swann-Morton brand blades is that you get 50 delivered to your door for $12, resulting in an average blade cost of $.24 USD (compared to 150x that cost for 2 knives shipped to your door.) I have a variety of marking knives, and my personal favorite is still the Blue Spruce.










I rather like a gentlemen's saw. I find the thin saw plate and fine teeth to provide great control. I cut my first set of half-blind dovetails for a writing desk using one. I plan to make myself one like Lie-Nielsen used to sell. Why? Because making a saw is fun (sorry, shameless 'build a saw' plug), and not too many saw makers offer the gent's saw aside from Crown and Two Cherries. I like my western style dovetail saw a lot and still use it for a majority of projects.


----------



## sepeck

Well, I recognize the saw may well be an impediment, but until the budget situation improves I am getting neither a kit nor the Veritas entry level saws. If the experiment doesn't go well, I may try a hack saw. It's a narrower blade. I have on my wish list a saw kit from one of the boards venders since that seems the most affordable way to get a good quality one at the cost of some work. I figure in the mean time I can watch the Paul Sellers saw sharpening video again and run a file on the crown gents saw and see how it all comes out. I've also seen a video and a post on adding a traditional handle to the Crown Gents saw so I may try this later as well.

Thanks,
Steven


----------



## CFrye

Question about the kerf for these marking knives: is it necessary to drill a hole at the bottom of the kerf to prevent splitting?


----------



## jmartel

Tested out a quickly made dovetail guide. I've only made a handful of successful dovetail joints so far, but the guide definitely helps out. Mine would look significantly worse without it.










The one gap on the right I think could have been easily fixed just by chiseling out a bit of waste in the corner that I forgot to get. It was tight enough that I couldn't get the joint apart to fix.

If you make any guides, definitely use the UHMW tape over the center block, and add sandpaper on the faces that will touch the wood as it will slide around otherwise.


----------



## CFrye

Nicely done, jmartel!


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

Norm - that's a significantly nicer gents saw that what I had. I shouldn't generalize, my bad.


----------



## AgentTwitch

Candy, I haven't found a need to drill a hole at the bottom. The tang will prevent splitting. The kerf should also accept the knife without too much force rerequired, otherwise getting it all together with epoxy will be an exercise in frustration.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

To install the knife I've been putting it in a vise with the tang stickin out the side. That way I can shove the handle on while the blade is protected. Works swell


----------



## CFrye

Thanks for the tips!


----------



## terryR

Red, et al, take 2 small pieces of soft wood about 4×1.5" and clamp your knife in that with a c-clamp, then the whole rig can be placed in the leg vise or anywhere. A knife clamp. Great for holding the pointy end or the tang while being worked…

Not to be left out in all these gorgeous marking knives…I decided to make a marking blade yesterday.










I hacked apart a pair of husky scissors, cut and shaped the steel with grinder, files, and DMT's. Used my Veritas sharpening jig to hold the lil blade while sharpening the bevels…came out sweet! I was careful to NOT discolor the steel, so I hope I didn't ruin the temper? It cuts like a knife!!!

Working on a fancy brass ferrule now…


----------



## terryR

August, this shot is for YOU!
How we work brass in Alabama…










LOL.


----------



## waho6o9

Clean work terry!


----------



## August

^nice work terryR 
I have lots of this high carbon steel
That's already handed 
It's basically spring steel 
It's 1/8 thick x 3/4 
I guess you can shape it to a marking knife 








dont know if you guys already know the spark test to see what kind of steel you guys have?
if theres any interest ill upload some videos and it, and how i do my heat treating and annealing


----------



## Mosquito

^ I'd be interested in seeing video August


----------



## jmartel

I'd be interested in that, August. I want to get into more metal working anyway.


----------



## terryR

spark test in my shop revealed low carbon steel…even though the scissors had 'T1-Titanium' stamped on them…no such grade of Ti that I know of!

August, have O1 steel here, just not 3/4" wide…would love to trade for 6" of yours…


----------



## ToddJB

I'd be interested, Auggie!

Terry, which sharpening jig are you referring to? The honing guide for stones or the grinder guide? I do not believe I could free hand this kind of blade.


----------



## CL810

After 5 minutes of using the new blade. Other surgical blades I've tried had this problem as well.

It's a good thing that this blade is shaped so the back can be re shaped. It only took a minute or two to fix it.


----------



## CFrye

Andy, could you elaborate what the problem is?


----------



## ToddJB

The tip of the left one broke/dulled.


----------



## August

No problem 
I'll work on it.
TerryR 
I'll send you this 14"plus
No need to send me metal.
Have enough
LOL


----------



## bobasaurus

I wonder if you could grind the back to make a less-steep angle on the tip… maybe it would be stronger?


----------



## CL810

Todd's right. Allen, I'm sure that would help. I'm just not sold yet on surgical blades. I'm gonna give the two I made a work out for a couple of weeks because I'd really like for them to work. I probably use too much pressure. I'm always breaking .7 mm pencil lead, but I also think they're too flexible and wonder off track.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

^Wonder if Barron gets complaints about the blades.


----------



## ShaneA

I thought in his details he was doing something with the point or the back of the blades. I cant remember what it was now, but there was a link earlier in the forum.


----------



## Mosquito

> *Sharpening back*
> As the only part of the blade to be used is the tip, it makes good sense to ignore the narrow bevels and just concentrate on sharpening the back.
> 
> The initial sharpening, with locked wrists and elbows, is best done on a diamond stone to prevent grooving, photo 1. This quickly re-establishes a nice sharp point without compromising the factory-ground bevels.
> 
> The back can be polished on a finer stone for ultimate sharpness. Again, the profile of this particular blade is helpful as the angled back is fully accessible and not fouled by the handle.











http://www.woodworkersinstitute.com/page.asp?p=1332


----------



## ErikF

I don't have a wood lathe so I'm going a different route. I had some O1 stock so I'm going to try making a few knives out of it, should work alright. Glad I have this ebony scrap!


----------



## August

Well been playing with dove tail for the bench


----------



## BigRedKnothead

> Red, et al, take 2 small pieces of soft wood about 4×1.5" and clamp your knife in that with a c-clamp, then the whole rig can be placed in the leg vise or anywhere. A knife clamp. Great for holding the pointy end or the tang while being worked…
> 
> - terryR


Good idea Terry. When I talked about putting the blade a vise, I should have specified the I protect it from the vise jaws with some leather or cloth.


----------



## CL810

.


----------



## CL810

> *Sharpening back*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Mosquito


Mos, that's exactly what I was referring to.


----------



## terryR

Todd, I used the honing guide. Freehand is easy, but doesn't give the perfect bevel like a jig. Will post a Blog with photos soon…

Yeah, I used to use scalpel blades for wood, too, but found they were too thin. I prefer thicker steel likeErikF is working above. Just my preference.

Thanks, August! No, I won't send you any metal! But, I've got other goodies…LOL!


----------



## Ripthorn

Well, I got myself a knife all made up that I am very happy with. May need to make another one or two, then pick the best. Then I might see if there is something else I can make to accompany it, or some other goodies to throw in. On the last swap I did, the person sending to me sent several other fun things (pieces of wood and such) and I thought that made it really cool.


----------



## wormil

The benefit to me of using a disposable blade is that it's disposable. That's why I don't like the idea of epoxying them in place.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

^Ya, i understand why a couple guys are trying to figure out a ferrule that twist-locks like an Xacto knife.

At the same time, if you can make them pretty swiftly, it's not a huge loss.


----------



## wormil

I have an idea on how to make a twist lock but have been too busy with other projects to try it.


----------



## ErikF

Spent some time today working on a batch of marking gauges. I decided to up the fence size from 1 5/8" to 2" to get better balance and a larger footprint. I'm going to cut a flat spot on a few of the fences- I don't want them rolling off a bench and I want them to be able to mark a board under 1" thick without having to hang it off something. Any thoughts or design preferences are welcome.


----------



## RPhillips

Looking good Erik, really like the idea of a flat spot on the fence.


----------



## ToddJB

Are flat spots needed? If its conical by design wouldn't it roll in circles instead of straight off the bench? I do like the idra of the bigger diameter though.


----------



## sepeck

Found this approach to making a marking knife interesting. Used a 1/2" spade bit. Maybe add it to the resource link.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

In theory that's correct Todd, but I've got the veritas gauge…and it makes a pretty big circle. Enough to roll of most benches unless placed in the center.

*Erik*- with your two improvements, you've already addressed my two biggest issues with that type of marking gauge. I tend to go with the old style gauges because these wheel gauges do have a small face that's easy to rock…good call there. And some flat spots would be good. From a aesthetic standpoint, uniform multi-sided would look good. Like this:









However, I realize that might be a pain to machine….but you said you liked working for $2 an hour anyway…lawl!

The only other thing I can think of is the locking mechanism. The veritas micro adjust is brilliant. However, it's interesting that the tool is totally one-handed except for the locking mechanism. Yet, I can set my favorite Les Outils gauge handed. Perhaps some lever/cam mechanism. I dunno. Just throwin stuff out there.

Sometimes I surprise myself with my opinions on these matters….but I am what I am..

And I'd gladly pay for one of those when they're ready.


----------



## jmartel

+1. Depending on cost, I might be willing to buy one as well. I still need to buy that saw kit I sent you a message about a while ago.


----------



## RPhillips

I think something like this would be good


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

The rationale for the round head is ease of manufacturing, imo the gauges like the Hamilton are superior by far. The head is wide enough that it won't ever rock or tip, and the head is thin enough that you can mark shoulders on the face of even thin boards while they are flat on the bench.

I have a tire-mark and I use it a lot for general layout. But for laying out baselines for dovetails I always grab the Hamilton (I have the little one, I'll buy or make a larger version and it will probably replace the time mark.)

You can solve the round head issues by making the circle wide then machining the bottom of the circle flat. You could also just start with a rectangular piece of barstock and skip the round shape.


----------



## terryR

Very impressive, Erik!

I have the Veritas version as well, and it rolls all over the bench to my dismay. A small flat spot sounds like an easy enough mod for my existing tool!  Although the fence is certainly small enough as is…

Your work is awesome…need that logo and website asap!  I'd love to own an Erik tool instead of mass produced!


----------



## waho6o9

+1 on RPhillips


----------



## ErikF

Thanks for the input gents! I'm going to try each of these designs- really think Red's idea is neat with the multiple flat sides as well as Rob's two side idea. Time to put the collet blocks to work to see which design works best. Times in a crunch right now but I do hope to get a few out to you all as testers- something to throw around the bench and find the weakness to each design. You guys are great.


----------



## ToddJB

Could you just keep it round and make a taller thumb screw? So when it starts to roll itjust hits the screw? Seems like less machining and keeps the nice look of a round face.


----------



## shipwright

I stand mine up in a dog hole. It keeps the cutter safe at the same time.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

hehehe. I had to try it. Big improvement.


----------



## bobasaurus

That looks great, Red. Is that the standard Veritas wheel gauge? I might have to do this to mine. Did you just file the flats on there freehand?


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Ya, I think its just the veritas with micro adjust. I made the flat spots with a disc sander, and then hit the deburring wheel. I'm sure you could do it with a file though.


----------



## ToddJB

Looks great.


----------



## ErikF

Here we go, only one is prone to rolling off a bench now so I'll add a long screw like Todd suggested. Gotta get them finished up to find a winner.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

I like the bottom right and the middle left.


----------



## RPhillips

I like the two flat and Hex sided ones


----------



## CL810

+1 on the middle left one.


----------



## CL810

> . Yet, I can set my favorite Les Outils gauge handed. Perhaps some lever/cam mechanism. I
> - BigRedKnothead


Red, the link doesn't work. Google didn't help.


----------



## CL810

Here's a slick way to have a dual blade marking gauge.

Everybody but me probably knows about 'em! LOL


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Huh. Well here you go:

http://www.thebestthings.com/newtools/outils_cullen_tools.htm

I like the slitting style with a blade. The pins are worthless imo.

I haven't tried the Hamilton style, but by the looks of them….I'd like 'em.


----------



## CL810

+1 on pins - they just tear the wood. I made a Hamilton style gauge for one of the swaps. I dunno, I made several but I never use one. I just reall like the Tite-mark style. But that's what I started with so that may be why?


----------



## ToddJB

Ohhhh. Middle left!


----------



## AgentTwitch

Bottom right and Middle Left are my favorites. But I like the whole bottom row.


----------



## GMatheson

I think middle left is the winner


----------



## AgentTwitch

Once you finish them up, I will test one (or all) for you


----------



## JayT

I'll add my voice for the middle left one, Erik. The hexagon is cool, too, but the rounded corner square looks really good as well as comfortable to use.


----------



## ErikF

Cool, thanks for all the input. When you guys are using your gauges do you usually have to hang the stock off the edge of the bench for fence clearance? My last two wheel gauges would hit the bench if I was using stock under 3/4" thick so I'm hoping that bottom/middle right will eliminate the need for this. It should give bench clearance but still maintain a full 2" width of fence contact with the board.


----------



## waho6o9

Maybe make one like this for inner and outer registration?









Great work ErikF. I'd like a circle on one end and the bottom right one on the
other.


----------



## ToddJB

Look at that long screw keeping it from rolling around


----------



## wormil

I never use a marking gauge on the bench, always hold the wood in my hand.


----------



## AgentTwitch

I use it on the edge of my bench in my workflow. Its comfortable, easy to hold on to, and do not worry about the marking gauge being over-sized because my hands would hit the surface of the work bench anyway. I also will hold the work piece if it is quite small.


----------



## JayT

I usually hold the piece being marked, with the opposite end/edge on the bench for stability. I very rarely have the piece laying on the bench when using a marking gauge.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Uh….I've usually got the piece on the bench…..cause I don't want to cut myself with the darn marking gauge! lol


----------



## terryR

^yeah, more knife cuts on my bench than my hands…

August, this is for you…brass turned on the wood lathe…










very addictive!


----------



## August

^damb Terry I need to send you my lathe since I don't use it anymore???
Nice job bud


----------



## BigRedKnothead

^August- how come your not using your lathe anymore?

Terry- what are you using to cut the brass?

edit- or did I answer my question by seeing the file in the background


----------



## August

^beacuase im to busy trying to copy you and TerryR and CL and smitty for doing woodworking LOL

No I'm still using it.
Just trying to start a conversation


----------



## wormil

I'm curious about cutting the brass too. I have some pieces I'd like to turn but carbide wood tools don't cut the mustard (or brass). Well they will cut it but very slowly.


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

the speed of material removal when turning metal is slower than wood. With brass and aluminum I think I'm usually taking a cut about .030-.050 deep (which is pretty aggressive) with a triangular carbide tool, on a metalworking lathe. The side-to-side feed rate is a function of the rotational speed, I think it's .003" to .005" per revolution, but it's been a while since I made something on the metal lathe.

Freehand turning brass on a wood lathe is certainly possible, just take really light cuts and go slow, I think if you try to hog material off like you can with wood you will have problems. Finish with a file and sandpaper on the lathe and it will be great.


----------



## Ripthorn

Whenever I turn brass on the wood lathe, I use a file. I tried my HSS tools and that didn't work terribly well, mostly because it's all but impossible to maintain a consistent cut depth, which is very important for metals. Brass and aluminum (even mild steel) all cut well with HSS, but the shock can damage the edge with inconsistent DOC long before it would actually go dull from regular cutting.


----------



## yuridichesky

Terry, pretty cool! What's the size of lathe chuck? 4"?


----------



## terryR

Yuri, it's a Nova G3…about 4" I guess?

I used a new triangular file for shaping, to get in tight spots. Worked so well, I gotta try it more!


----------



## yuridichesky

Here's what I did once to adjust brass nut a little:










First I cut a little step with sharpened tip of the file, and then deepened the cut with a file itself.


----------



## sepeck

So, you know that habit of brushing away wood shaving with your hand? If you are turning metal… don't do that, use a brush. Just an suggestion


----------



## jmartel

Yuri, is that a drill set up as a lathe?


----------



## yuridichesky

Exactly. Something like this:










I used to like it but not anymore because it's too much fuss to set it up and it's obviously way too limited in action. I guess I'm ready to purchase some small but real one


----------



## terryR

^I have used a rig similar to that many times before scoring a lathe. Scary due to no speed control on my Dewalt drill. I used sandpaper and sanding blocks instead of chisels…very slow! I even burned out one drill motor from extended work periods. hope your Makita or Bosch lasts a long time!

OK, my swap item is done…lignum vitae…heavy, heavy…










Huh? What do ya mean we aren't swapping mallets again? LOL.


----------



## sepeck

I point to the picture at top of thread with mallet in it….. Pretty by the way.

You want to see an interesting video on a 'do it yourself lathe' check this out.


----------



## bobasaurus

Damn that is a nice mallet, excellent-looking grain too. Where did you get a piece of lignum that big?


----------



## Slyy

Lignum, yum Terry! Pardon the pun but that mallet turned out great!


----------



## ErikF

Terry- that mallet turned out pretty sweet. I've never seen lignun used as a mallet, looks like marble! How much would you estimate it weighs?


----------



## ErikF

I've been making progress on my marking gauge build over the past few days and am liking the larger fence so far. I think I'll stick with the 2" size but need to fine tune some of the design to smoothen the operation. One hand is all that's needed for the micro adjust. These complete pieces work well and don't need anything else to be good users. What you don't see - there are five others on the bench that need fine tuning in one way or another. Either way, here they are.


----------



## lateralus819

Eric- Great job on those, they look fantastic!


----------



## waho6o9

Great work Erik!

PM sent.


----------



## August

Lots of new thing happening here
Very nice work Erik!!!!!

Someday I wish I can make one.

TerryR
That's a sweet looking thumper men


----------



## terryR

Erik, those are nice looking gauges…wish I had more play money right now! 

Glad you guys like the 20 pound mallet! No, really, it outweighs my 26oz framing hammer, though. I'll probably have to choke up on it during use. 

The wood came from fleaBay, only 7/8" thick, so I laminated a few pieces together. Just buffed wax for a finish.


----------



## Mosquito

Nice work Erik! I like the round with a flat spot myself


----------



## ToddJB

Terry, that mallet has a great shape. Awesome job.

Erik, those are stupid good. Your machining skills are things of my dreams.


----------



## AgentTwitch

Nice work, gentlemen! The mallet and the marking gauges look fantastic! Erik, I really like the two on the left. Great work. They look like they have some real heft to them, which I like. Terry, that mallet is a beast! I would worry that it would splinter my hornbeam handles!


----------



## JR45

Those gauges look terrific. Envious!
Jim


----------



## Slyy

Wow Erik, those gauges are looking great. Having a self taught machinist as a father-in-law I really appreciate the work those tool! Excellent work mang!


----------



## DaddyZ

Excellent looking gauges, the hexagon looks cool…

Just sign it and send it to me, I will take care of it for you


----------



## CFrye

Let me add my kudos to the marking guages, Eric. Hard to pick a favorite. I'd have to say the hexagon runs a close race with the round with one flat. I think you need to send them both so I can use them and make an informed decision ;-)
Went to Woodcraft today and ogled the lumber and tools. Walked away with a ~2×2x6" maple blank with some curl in it. On sale for a whopping $0.49 Yup, I'm a big spender!
Son, on the other hand, had a $20 bill burning a hole in his pocket and picked up a 2×2x12" piece of lignun vitae, on sale, as well. No, he has no idea what he's gonna do with it. Terry, I showed him your awesome mallet for inspiration!
Trying to firm up plans for my swap item. Gotta get started on the proto type!


----------



## wormil

I never did receive my Swann Morton blades which I ordered Dec 3rd. I contacted the seller, waiting to hear back.


----------



## RPhillips

took mine about 3 weeks to get to me. But you should have some tracking info through paypal once they are shipped.


----------



## AgentTwitch

Rick, let me know if you some blades to get started.

I have put my project on the back burner until January. I have managed to finish two small Christmas projects with my kids, which is awesome-fun!


----------



## wormil

Thanks guys. It's been a little less than 3 weeks and I wasn't too worried since it's Christmas and they have a long way to go. I'm not starting this until January either so I'm in no rush.


----------



## AgentTwitch

Santa's elves dropped this off today.









I wonder what's inside?









Glorious walnut turning stock! Thanks ErikF, you are the man!
Gift card used for size reference.


----------



## ToddJB

Wood and a gift card! I can't wait! Erik really knows how to buy friends.


----------



## AgentTwitch

Lol, the gift card was not included. I know, I know…it probably should have been…


----------



## CFrye

Similar package arrived here as well. Much drooling going on. Thanks EriK!


----------



## waho6o9

Big appreciation for the hard working elves in terryRs' shop!

Thank you terryR.


----------



## RPhillips

*Norm* When do we need to PM you exactly what it is that we are all making?


----------



## terryR

waho, You're welcome, buddy! I hope that flint will make great art for ya! Sorry I had to fold that maroon felt, I'm anal about folded maps and padding…

Lovely walnut!


----------



## waho6o9




----------



## AgentTwitch

Rob, I didnt set that deadline, other than I want a photo of your nearly completed project first of February. I will not be assigning your swap partners until close the end and it will be based on what you share with me for your photos.

If you want to personalize your swap item, you can PM me and I will do what I can, but keep in mind people drop out of these swaps leading up to the shipping date.


----------



## AgentTwitch

Anyone try to salt water etch a metal blade before? Any tips to offer?

This is the process that I am referencing

Another more intricate version on youtube


----------



## wormil

No, but since seeing Trollsky making it look easy I've been wanting to.


----------



## RPhillips

> Rob, I didnt set that deadline….
> 
> - AgentTwitch


Ok, thanks. Thought I had read somewhere we were supposed to submit that info.


----------



## bobasaurus

Norm, I've done that sort of etching before. Here it is on my plane swap blade:

http://i.imgur.com/r2mHDLC.jpg

It's pretty easy. Just come up with a stencil/resist of some kind (I used laser jet toner transfer with a cloths iron), and use salt water and a power source. Many articles out there about it, just google electrolytic etching.


----------



## ToddJB

I got my box of wood and gift card, too! Thanks Erik!


----------



## AgentTwitch

Allen, that etch came out great! Did you use special paper? I have a fairly detailed etch design, but don't want to pay $20 for it to be engraved at a local shop.


----------



## bobasaurus

I used shiny photo paper with my laser jet printer. I then ironed it onto the metal and carefully washed/peeled away the remaining paper, finally scrubbing a bit with a tooth brush to remove all non-conductive residue in the to-be-etched areas.


----------



## bobasaurus

By the way, using salt water for the etching will leave some uneven black crud randomly in some of the etched areas. To even it out, I wiped on some apple cider vinegar and let it sit for a while. This darkened everything, so I then sanded the flat areas and did a little buffing down in the etch. Makes for a nice dark-ish color in the etch.

A better etching solution is ferric sulfate in water. You can buy it super cheap from alpha chemicals.


----------



## ErikF

Cool, glad to see people are getting their packages! Im currently holed up in a La Quinta Inn trying not to drown in the crazy rain of the south east, I'm also missing shop time. Hope everyone has a great Christmas and gets plenty of time to build stuff!


----------



## CFrye

Merry Christmas, everyone! Pray that you all have lots of safe and productive shop time in the coming year!


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

I just finished my first handsaw using parts from Blackburn Tools. This is the "Smith's Key" reproduction, 12", 13tpi. Cuts smoothly and dead straight, should be great for dovetails and tenons up to about 2" long.


----------



## CL810

Beautiful work Joe! Man that handle is awesome.


----------



## terryR

pretty and radical, Joe! 
What's the wood?


----------



## bobasaurus

That is one beautiful saw. One thing I don't get about making hand saws… how does the heat treatment work? Does the steel plate come annealed for easy working, and if so are the teeth super soft unless they go through heat treatment? Or does the plate come already hardened and tempered, but then how do you file the teeth?


----------



## ErikF

> That is one beautiful saw. One thing I don t get about making hand saws… how does the heat treatment work? Does the steel plate come annealed for easy working, and if so are the teeth super soft unless they go through heat treatment? Or does the plate come already hardened and tempered, but then how do you file the teeth?
> 
> - bobasaurus


Saw plates are hardened and tempered before any work is done to the plate. Pretty much everyone that makes a premium backsaw these days uses 1095 spring steel that is hardened then tempered to around rc 52, files are quite a bit harder than this so they can still cut the metal.


----------



## bobasaurus

Thanks for the great explanation, Erik. The lower RC value makes sense, as you'll need the file to be harder, plus the plate can flex a little without breaking.


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

Thanks Terry, it was a fun project and I learned a lot. This was a gift for my brother in law, I'm going to order more parts and make myself one now.

The wood was Marbled Claro Walnut with clear shellac. This pic is the raw wood. I have a neat piece of maple burl I might try for the next one, although I'm a little worried about it cracking given the crazy grain in that piece.












> pretty and radical, Joe!
> What s the wood?
> 
> - terryR


----------



## wormil

That saw handle is crazy wild and I like it Joe.


----------



## terryR

^Love the photo of the "raw" handle!
See those rasp marks? 

Hey, is that saw going in The Swap?


----------



## AgentTwitch

Great looking tote, Joe!

Hope everyone had a merry Christmas and a happy new year. Any new toys out there in the crowd? I picked up an antique cast iron glue pot and Stanley No. 68 rule at an antique show on New Year's Eve . Looking forward to playing around with these soon…oh and getting back to my swap project!


----------



## waho6o9

Beautiful tote Joe, great work.

Nice score on the antique glue pot Norm.

Maybe some hyde glue? Around a dollar an ounce for reference.

http://www.japanwoodworker.com/Product/11Y51/16oz-Ground-Hide-Glue.aspx


----------



## shipwright

Milligan and Higgins 192 gram, about $.50 an ounce if my math is right. 
I use this every day. It's the only glue I use. It has so many advantages over "modern" glues.
Five pounds lasts me about a year. I do hope you give it a try. You may never go back to PVA.


----------



## terryR

+1 to how awesome hide glue is. 
I've only used it while attaching snakeskin to bows, but never had one come off! 
Never used the liquid stuff…always cooked granules…

Double post in case you guys aren't on the Saw Forum…here's a tote I've been procrastinating with for 6 months. bubinga replacement for a Tyzack 120 since the original is horrible to grasp. Completely shaped with rasps and sandpaper, wax for a finish. A very heavy backsaw recently sharpened by Mark Harrell of Bad Axe…must be the most perfect teeth I've seen!


----------



## CFrye

Beautiful saw handles, Joe and Terry! The original looks like it's cookie cutter stamped, Terry, and they skipped the final shaping.


----------



## terryR

Thanks, Candy. That helps me feel I didn't waste the shop time! Seems like a good saw for a lifetime of use, but was not comfy, even in my size 8 hands. I have a hard enough time trying to cut a straight line! 

Hey, Norm, how strict are the rules on sharing teaser photos of our builds? ( I still have not started! ) Haven't seen much lately…


----------



## AgentTwitch

Terry, I highly recommend folks share as many teaser shots as possible. I have some on my phone that I have debated uploading. Photos make the swap more exciting

I have some hide glue ready to go. Been using a water heater made by Rival with a glass jar up to this point. I am looking forward to taking the glue pot with me away from the plugged in pot.

Might try making hide glue and a quality glue brush one of these days. So many projects, so little time…


----------



## AgentTwitch

Teaser shots…










Purpose built jig for holding bar stock safely and comfortably.










Setting the height, not running the sled without the use of the fence.


----------



## terryR

Thanks, Norm. Is that slot cutter running in your router? 
I sure need both of those tools…

MAKING hide glue is a smelly process you won't forget. 

Wife and I softening a brain tanned hog hide last week…










...didn't come out as soft as fleece, but it's hard to make a silk purse from a sow's hide!


----------



## AgentTwitch

That is very neat. Brain dyed anything is pretty amazing.

You are correct sir, slot cutter in router table. I have a variable speed router with a separate speed controller to slow it way down. Not a milling machine, but light passes have given good results on brass.


----------



## AgentTwitch

Setting router bit to give the correct chamfer on the brass stock.









Routed chamfer on the bar stock. Will need some filing and sanding to be considered done.










I go with shallower chamfer on the top and front.


----------



## bobasaurus

Norm, I didn't know you could route brass. Very interesting. I've always had problems drilling brass because of how grabby/soft it is… do you have any trouble when routing?


----------



## AgentTwitch

Allen, no issues whatsoever. Aluminum and brass are pretty easy with carbide tools. I haven't tried it without lowering the speed way down (with the help of another speed controller). I wouldn't want to hold the brass without a jig when routing.


----------



## ToddJB

Cool pics. Norm.

Terry, is that your teaser shot? Making a hog hide marking knife?


----------



## terryR

Darn Todd, How did you guess?


----------



## Mosquito

He's making a tool roll for the skew, fishtail, and straight chisels he's making, that he'll be sending along with the saw


----------



## ToddJB

Dear heavens I hope that's true, Mos.


----------



## CFrye

Cool pics, Norm and Terry! I've only read about brain tanning…lots of hard work!


----------



## terryR

Actually, I DO intend to make a few tool rolls…I know how to sew! 
Mostly because the LN leather roll is awesome, but $75 isn't a fair price IMO.


----------



## Mosquito

I don't disagree at all! I wouldn't mind picking one up for my Ashley Iles chisels. I'm using the old tool roll from my Bailey chisels, but the problem there is that the roll holds 5 chisels and I have 6 lol


----------



## AgentTwitch

I really like having a leather tool roll for chisels. $75+ is quite pricey. I did a quick search and saw this on amazon. "Faithfull Leather 8 Pocket Chisel Roll". Good rating over all, a little surprised that is is actually leather for less than $20 delivered to your door.










Amazon Link

Turns out the manufacturers website also advertises a 10 pocket.


----------



## summerfi

That seems like a heck of a deal, especially with free shipping from UK. I've heard others talk about the chemicals used to tan leather causing corrosion on tools, but I have no experience to base an opinion on. What do you all think? Note that this question excludes Terry, who uses the naturopathic tanning method…brains vice chemicals.


----------



## donwilwol

Aren't most holsters leather? I've never had them rust a firearm.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

I've yet to have an issue with leather and tools either. I even lined my tool drawers with leather. No rust yet. I did spritz the leather with wd40 though.

Kinda funny, my used LN chisel came with rolls. I knew they were valuable, and that I'd never use them….so I sold them and bought more tools;-)


----------



## lateralus819

Apparently it is Acid tanned leather. I had my MIL make me a NICE leather case for my tenon saw, to find out this little tidbit…


----------



## Slyy

Interesting on the idea that leather tanning chemicals might somehow negatively effect the tool steel. A friend of my wife's has a side business making leather goods, mostly purses and saddlery, might chat her up about tool rolls. I do have new set of chisels set for delivery tomorrow and have nowhere good to keep 'em currently!


----------



## ToddJB

I heard that vegetable oil tanned leather is the route you want to go.


----------



## wormil

Leather tool rolls are mighty handsome but I'm pretty sure I would never use one.


----------



## ksSlim

Latigo tan is a mix of vegetable tan with added wax/oil.
That from an old saddle maker.


----------



## AgentTwitch

I do use a leather tool roll for my chisels and have not had any issues.


----------



## terryR

One thing about leather you can't tell from the vendor's ad…how it feels in your hands. LN's tool rolls are sewn in Maine from high quality leather. those 2 facts drive up the price. If I made one from braintanned deerhide, it would be worth even more! It's an object that I cannot justify buying…but certainly can justify producing. LOL. The braintanned leather sells for $12-15 a square foot online, plus shipping! that's why the wife and I want to make it so badly…value. As a garment, it repels moisture after being treated with smoke, and isn't affected by briars. Awesome stuff!

Honestly, I don't know enough about other tanning processes to predict their abilities to rust tools. I would assume the soft side of the leather could absorb moisture from the air if not treated? Never had a problem with my chisel rolls in 1.5 years…more testing needed! 

I just love keeping chisels in the rolled leather. Mine usually live in the tool tray of the bench…all unrolled, but still protected from the ladybug invasion! and errant tools being dropped nearby…


----------



## CFrye

Got started working on the proto-type for the swap. Planing some curly maple, doing fine, then . . . nothing. Didn't make any adjustments on the plane it just stopped taking shavings. Argh! After fettling it and going the complete opposite direction and leaving a deep gouge, I switched to a scraper. Almost back to good before I called it a day. Frustration and woodworking are not a good combo!


----------



## Steven0614

Is it to late to join?? I am guessing it is, by the date of Nov 2 2014


----------



## VeritasInnovations

Brand new to this community and I can already tell Im going to like it. Great idea! Im delighted to be involved! I will send you a PM as soon as I figure out how…..


----------



## CFrye

Welcome to you both! It is too late for this swap, but you can follow along. The next one is usually debated and discussed toward the end of the swaps.


----------



## terryR

Candy, which plane were you using?
I'm guessing a wooden body with a wedge holding the iron?
We need to get you a proper smoother…
Is the piece too wide to use a 60 1/2?

OK, my Swap item is done…










Huh? We aren't swapping baskets? Oh crap that took 26 hours!
LOL.


----------



## CFrye

A newly fixed Millers Falls 14, Terry. It had a cracked wing. SuperDave brazed it for me and sharpened the iron. It has been working great. I'll try the 60 1/2. 
Awesome dovetail basket!


----------



## Slyy

Basket Swap 2015 huh Terry?

Shoulda figured Dave did brazing. I need to shoot him a PM, have a millers falls no 12 breast drill (early version) that has the shoulder support broken (I did it too).


----------



## CFrye

Jake, here's a video he did on another plane for Bandit.


----------



## terryR

Oh wait, Candy…
You know I'm retired and pushing 50' so my brain doesn't work well until AFTER 4 cups of java! 

I've had that same thing happen even with a metal plane, but had forgotten. When fettling the iron to the correct working depth, give the depth adjuster 1/2 turn to take up extra slack, AFTER you tighten the lever cap. You may have to re-set the iron's depth a little, but the little 1/2 turn tightens up the adjuster, so vibration doesn't cause it to work loose under stress and allow the iron to slip backwards just a tiny bit…no shavings. Think the book calls it backlash?

Hey, baskets are cool. Fun to make, and very useful. Woodworking-RELATED, I suppose, not directly. But, I find sewing and basketweaving good therapy for my 10 thumbs…paying off in the shop, I think!


----------



## Slyy

Candy Thanks for the Link. I realize now that I have watched some of his videos before, just completely forgot about them!


----------



## Iguana

> ... As a garment, it repels moisture after being treated with smoke, and isn t affected by briars. Awesome stuff!...
> - terryR


Terry,

Exactly what kind of garments do you normally wear? Smoke-treated underpants generally aren't my favorite  Mind you, I don't go crawling around in the briar patch often.


----------



## terryR

Mark, my wife made me a pair of knee high moccasins out of her deerhide, awesome stuff! Soft as fleece, warm, water resistant, doesn't tear when you walk through briars. What, you guys don't regularly walk through briar patches?  I'm certainly slowing down as I push 50' but still like to hunt for new caves…thus the briars. Plus, blackberry harvesting always involves briars…unless I just stay in the Jeep! LOL

Really, I want a pair of 1/2 pants and leggings like woodworkers dressed in the 1800's! I admit it!!!


----------



## AgentTwitch

Its been quite on here lately. A little too quiet.

I received some toys in the mail yesterday. A bottle of FeCl3 for etching metal and a thin parting tool. Not related.

I have designed a VERY detailed (read that as too detailed) graphic that I want to etch on stainless steel using some inexpensive techniques I have read online.

I tried to use the electrolyte / electrolysis method, but my charger wont allow me to as its "smart" technology. I didnt have a 9V battery lying around, so I tried to use white vinegar instead. It worked! Not well, mind you, but it got the job done.

After reading about how some computer engineers like to make prototype boards inexpensively, I started to subscribe to their method of doing business. On the cheap. I havent tried the FeCl3 etchant solution yet, so I cant tell you if it will work. But if it does, I will share that process with photos in this thread.

So far, I have inverted and reversed my logo and used a laser printer to print on parchment paper. I use a household clothes iron to heat the toner and bond it to the steel. Worked pretty well. The inverted image acts as a mask for the etch solution.


----------



## summerfi

Norm, I'll be interested in seeing the results. I've done limited testing of the FeCl3. It etches fine. The problem I had was getting a good enough seal on the resist/mask so that the image came out sharp. It also tends to eat away under the resist/mask if left in too long, making a blurry image. I didn't keep after it long enough to work out the bugs, but instead switched over to laser etching since I have a source for that close by.


----------



## terryR

+1 to wanting to see etching results. Using ANY technique. I've only tried once with vinegar, but had the same problems Bob mentioned. The vinegar ate its way under my mask.

have been playing with transferring images to wood for chip carving practice lately…beginning to wonder if the type of paper used is key? Certainly need more reading and experimenting!

I hope to get a few pieces laser engraved for the beauty, but need to figure out etching in the shop to save $$$.


----------



## AgentTwitch

Bob,

I went to a laser engraver specifically to avoid the guess work and failed attempts, but the owner of the company said that the laser that they have doesnt do anything to stainless steel. It can cut/etch wood and brass, but can only thermally apply a resin to the steel. I debated using them anyway, but at $30 for a saw plate that will wear away after somewhat regular use, I opted to try acid etching instead.


----------



## summerfi

Gotcha Norm. If you find the FeCl3 doesn't work for you, I have a source for very reasonable laser etching. He can do spring steel, and I'm guessing could do stainless. Check out the saw thread for further details.


----------



## CFrye

Package arrived with swap tool making supplies…


----------



## terryR

Wow, that's a pretty big box, Candy!

So, you're making…ummm…a Benchcrafted Moxon vise?


----------



## CFrye

Awww, Terry! I wanted it to be a surprise! Now I have to make something else…Um


----------



## August

on the marking gauges 
why would you prefer the round type versus a rectangle?
and do you really need a micro adjust?


----------



## terryR

^round looks classic.
don't own a micro-adjust, but would like to try one.


----------



## August

your a good man terry
i dont own any marking gauges
hmmm
i need to buy one and try it out


----------



## wormil

A micro adjust would be a great feature on a marking gauge. It can be tricky sometimes to get the exact depth you want because some want to move when you tighten the nut. With a knife I mark a piece of wood with the depth I want, put the blade/pin of the gauge into the mark then bring the fence to the wood and tighten.


----------



## August

^thats sound a whole lot better and more accurate in my mind cool thanks man


----------



## waho6o9

Erik makes a great marking gauge that has a micro adjuster

that works well. 
http://lumberjocks.com/messages/new/ErikF


----------



## August

Yes that does look sexy nice^


----------



## lateralus819

August- Ill take 3 of those ^ .


----------



## BigRedKnothead

August- Pick up a $30 veritas. You'll brainstorm quite a bit from that gadget.


----------



## AgentTwitch

I had a free evening and really wanted to try etching a saw plate and a piece of brass stock using stuff I had at home and some etching solution. Why? Because I really wanted a cool custom saw plate like the saw makers used to put on their saws.

Spoiler alert: the saw plate etched as well as I had hoped. The brass, not so much. I am sure it had to do with the mask and how long I had the solution applied, followed by too much sanding.

Here is my design (way too detailed, over complicated, a poor choice for trying to etch something on your first go, etc.)









I reversed the image and inverted the black/white so I could use the toner (plastic) as a resist for the etching solution. 








The image has to be mirrored so that when you apply it to the saw plate it will be facing the right way. I print this on parchment paper (that was taped to a regular sheet of paper)

Here are the test subjects: My salvage dovetail saw with the drywall knife saw plate, and a piece of mangled brass bar stock. It would be easier to remove the saw plate to do this process, but I didnt want to go through the trouble and thought about how it would be possible to re-etch some old disston if you wanted, where removing the split nuts would likely result in breaking them.









Next, I check to see if my wife is around or if there are spies. Then I go grab the clothes iron, turn the heat way up, and turn the steam lever to off. I let it heat up and clean the test subjects. Next, I cut out a few of the printed resists and tape them on.


















Now that the iron is hot, I make sure to cover the saw plate and brass bar stock with a rag before ironing. You dont want to melt the masking tape to the iron. I am thinking my beautiful bride would find out if there was burnt goop on the iron…









The trick is to really let the iron heat up the toner. It will stick to saw plate/brass and not the parchment paper if done correctly. I applied some pressure and repeated for about 1-2 minutes. I have read a lot about laser printer toner not being equal across manufacturers when it comes to transfer and resisting the etching solution. I cant speak from experience as I have only tried this with an HP deskjet. Here are the results. Not bad!


















There are some areas that didnt transfer, or I scratched them to see how durable the toner is (not all of that scratch resistant). I have read that etching solution can undercut the toner, so its a good idea to make sure that you fill in all pin holes with sharpie or some other solution. Nail polish is also great for this purpose. Just saying. I went with a nice hot pink for this. 









Here is the product I used and some safety gear. I have heard mixed feelings on how caustic FeCl3 truly is. I opted to do this in a well ventilated area with safety glasses and nitrile gloves. Note: the sponges are to conserve solution and make clean up a breeze. Miiiiiight have used 1 tsp of solution this way. The sponges are reusable. Just rinse them out.


















After 15 minutes, I washed off the etching solution from the saw. Its hard to tell how effective the etch is at this point. So, use some Acetone and you get the big reveal. 

















If you look closely, you can see my previous etching attempt using white vinegar. I used a Scotch-Brite pad to remove the etch and try the FeCl3 method.

I let the brass set for about 1 hour. I dont think the sharpie or the toner can hold up all of that well for 1 hour. To be fair, the brass had very good detail on it, to include a font that was probably size 4 (less than 1/8" tall), but I want to remove some of the brass that was tarnished during the process. I removed too much. I think an engraving machine would do a better job on the brass than acid anyway.









Overall, I am pleased with the ease of etching the steel plate. I might opt to spend more time painting in the resit around the detail using a tooth pick or something and leaving the solution on the plate for 30 minutes or so. I would like to try to put some enamel on the saw plate and remove it from the high spots to really get the etch to pop. I have heard gun bluing solution can do this as well. Currently is mid/dark gray.

Sorry about the diatribe. Thanks for reading!


----------



## waho6o9

That's awesome Norm keep at it bro.


----------



## CL810

Wow Norm, neat stuff!


----------



## summerfi

Love your etch design Norm. It looks like your success was better than mine on the first try. Great job.


----------



## CFrye

That is cool, Norm!


----------



## Slyy

Wow Norm, nevermind the long diatribe, awesome to have you share the experience. Seems like it had some pretty good results on the steel.


----------



## bobasaurus

I like your etching process Norm. I've done electro etching with ferrous sulfate, never thought about using ferric chloride (they use that for PCB etching too, I believe). Your use of parchment paper is clever, I might have to try it (always used shiny photo paper, but it's hard to remove).


----------



## AgentTwitch

Thanks all. The process is pretty easy overall, which surprised me.

Bob, I am glad you like the design. It is supposed to scream "Maine" with symbolism. Sun in the 'seal' represents how Maine is first point of US that the light hits each morning. The laurels are made up of blueberries, the Moose is our state bird or something. The term Maineiac is what some of the locals like to call themselves because of the fun play on words.

Allen, you are spot on. The FeCl3 is used mostly for etching PCB and copper plates for print making. The use of parchment paper was a neat find I read online somewhere. It removes the need to soak the material in water to remove the backing material after the heat transfer…and is cheap in comparison to buying premium glossy paper or the PCB specialty transfer paper.


----------



## terryR

Thanks for sharing your efforts, Norm. 
The results are awesome!


----------



## AgentTwitch

A quick progress teaser for my build. These will be a little out of sequence as my Internet connection stinks and I am relying on my phone.

African Blackwood during the rough shaping process.


----------



## AgentTwitch

I had trouble uploading photos, so here is a the tote with the mortise hogged out to accept the brass back. I used a drill press with X-Y vise to do the majority of stock removal. The Gramercy Toolworks saw instructions provided this direction and I like it.


----------



## terryR

^nice drill press!
Gotta love the clean mortise!
And the sapwood on that tote!


----------



## ToddJB

Cool stuff, Norm. You're doing some great work.


----------



## AgentTwitch

As I said before, these pictures are out of sequence.




































I am test fitting the saw plate and the brass back into the saw tote. I gave all of these marking knives away as gifts to coworkers.


----------



## sepeck

Just got notification that the part I ordered for my tool was shipped yesterday and is on the way.


----------



## jmartel

I think I'm going to have to bow out of this swap. Going to be busy at work and have 2 other projects going on right now. Sorry guys, but I'll still be following.


----------



## Iguana

A teaser pic:









My swap object is buried in there somewhere. Just need to apply saws, chisels and glue…


----------



## terryR

^nice crosscut sled! AND pile of cut offs! You furniture makers always have the best selection of cut offs. 

I can see a dozen marking gauges, DT guides, handles for misc tools, small box parts…don't get me started!

...still waiting for parts here…and looking for steel to practice etching on…


----------



## summerfi

> You furniture makers always have the best selection of cut offs.
> 
> - terryR


I still think we need a wood swap. It may not reduce my abundance of cutoffs, but at least maybe I'd have some new kinds to look at.

Terry I could send you some steel cutoffs from saw making if you want.


----------



## AgentTwitch

Jeffrey, that is a bummer, but you got to do what you got to do.

Bob, a lumber swap would be great.


----------



## terryR

Bob, that wood be awesome…after I score some etching solution, I was planning to practice on spent Disston plates, but nice, clean steel should be better!

+1 to a wood swap.


----------



## summerfi

I'll get some in the mail to you Terry. They'll be small pieces, but big enough to play around with etching and then turn into card scrapers.


----------



## ToddJB

Dang, I just went back up and looked at the due dates. I need to get on the freakin' ball.


----------



## wormil

Instead of another swap right after this, I'd love for us to do a build challenge.


----------



## terryR

Me, too, Todd!

Rick, throw out some rules…careful, though, you may get voted as moderator!


----------



## jmartel

I like the build challenge idea. Perhaps a 2×4 build challenge? See what you can make out of 1 2×4x8 from a home center. Cheap, and lots of ideas that can be done.


----------



## Ripthorn

The last 2×4 challenge I built a guitar. Now, I used a 10 footer, so I was self DQ'd, but I didn't want to jeopardize the usability of the thing. Turned out quite nice. Another fun challenge idea might be one centered around a technique, like bent lamination or something, but something that does not require a lot of specific equipment. Steam bending, for example, I wouldn't do just because I don't have a steam box or the inclination to build/have one. But whatever is come up with, I'm sure there will be some great stuff.


----------



## ToddJB

Would 3/64" O1 Tool Steel be a decent general purpose thickness for things like marking knives and marking gauge cutters? Or is that too thick?


----------



## wormil

I have a crazy idea but I don't know how it would go over. The challenge would be to build the most ridiculous pencil sharpener you can. The main rules would be it has to sharpen a pencil and be built mostly from scratch. Points for craftsmanship, humor, needless complexity, and whether it can sharpen a pencil. The idea sprung up last year when my daughter and I were looking at antique pencil sharpeners, some of which were ridiculously large and complex. We've joked since about making steam driven pencil sharpeners.


----------



## Hammerthumb

> Would 3/64" O1 Tool Steel be a decent general purpose thickness for things like marking knives and marking gauge cutters? Or is that too thick?
> 
> - ToddJB


I have used 3/64" for marking knives and gauges, as well as 1/8" for larger marking knives. 3/16" for paring chisels, and 1/4" for things I'm going to pound on. Your on the right track Todd.


----------



## Hammerthumb

> I have a crazy idea but I don t know how it would go over. The challenge would be to build the most ridiculous pencil sharpener you can. The main rules would be it has to sharpen a pencil and be built mostly from scratch. Points for craftsmanship, humor, needless complexity, and whether it can sharpen a pencil. The idea sprung up last year when my daughter and I were looking at antique pencil sharpeners, some of which were ridiculously large and complex. We ve joked since about making steam driven pencil sharpeners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Rick M.


Dual purpose devise Rick. Make coffee and sharpen pencils at the same time!


----------



## ToddJB

Thanks Paul, I just bought some. I believe all materals should be on the way


----------



## terryR

Rick, That IS a crazy idea, but sure sounds like fun! I'm a little concerned that you may have a head start on us, though! LOL. Oh yes, grinding coffee beans and sharpening the pencil sounds like a challenge. No electricity I assume? diesel OK?


----------



## ToddJB

2×4 mock ups started this evening to get the shapes and feels I want. Hopefully have a couple prototypes done for the picture deadline. Then on to the good stuff. This will be the first time working with highly figured wood and doing a few procedures I've not tried before, so I'm sure it'll be a huge learning experience.

Spent a lot of the night sharpening and dialing in the band saw so didnt get as far as I wanted, but I never do, so tonight was par for the course.


----------



## wormil

> Rick, That IS a crazy idea, but sure sounds like fun! I m a little concerned that you may have a head start on us, though! LOL. Oh yes, grinding coffee beans and sharpening the pencil sounds like a challenge. No electricity I assume? diesel OK?
> 
> - terryR


Definitely bonus points for diesel and multi-function like grinding beans. I know someone would build a steampunk pencil sharpener, it would be glorious.










I need to quit worrying about pencil sharpeners and finish this swap!


----------



## terryR

Rick, count me in somehow! 










Now, I want a vintage machine for the shop! LOL!


----------



## CFrye

When you're done sharpening your pencil you can play a movie on that, Terry!


----------



## terryR

^cannot figure out the movie format…avi…mpeg…looks pre-VHS!


----------



## CFrye

How about popcorn?


----------



## AgentTwitch

I have managed to misplace parts of my build. not the easily replaceable wood parts….Nope, the metal ones that took 4 weeks to receive. Awesome! hoping that i find them soon. Picture day is approaching after all!


----------



## Mosquito

Unfortunately, I think I'm going to have to back out as well. I'm just not able to find the time among my other commitments, sadly. :-(


----------



## waho6o9

If it's the brass ones with the bevel on them it's probably

on the router table Norm.

Do what you gotta do Mos.

Should be getting a picture in this week.


----------



## CFrye

I, too, am bowing out. :-(


----------



## Ripthorn

When is picture day? I have my humble swap item ready.


----------



## AgentTwitch

Sorry to hear it Moz and Candy. Maybe next time.

Waho, I checked the router table as it usually has a collection of items on it. I am missing my saw plates. I could make them but the retoother that TGIAG uses gives a much better result than my hand filing. I will keep looking after this blizzard passes.


----------



## AgentTwitch

Ripthorn, status photos needed by 01 FEB. Project doesn't need to be finished, but should be ready by deadline. Email njstickney (at) Gmail (dot) com or use the private message feature of lumberjocks.

I am really looking forward to seeing the wonderful dovetail items.


----------



## terryR

not dropping out, but my progress photo may be dis-assembled. 
hopefully no problems getting the tool built in time for shipping, though!


----------



## ToddJB

I'm in the same boat as, Terry. The pictures will be of raw materials and a 2X4 mock up.


----------



## terryR

I should come clean with the group…just waiting for parts in the mail, and it's MY fault 100%.

I secretly backed out of the swap last month, and cancelled my parts on order. But, I begged to be allowed back in…so am behind schedule a little. No worries, though…


----------



## CL810

How do you send a pic in a pm? Tried to on my iPad and could not do a copy and paste. What am I missing?


----------



## Ripthorn

I'm not worried about Terry being behind schedule. I am certain that whatever he makes will be well worth the wait.


----------



## waho6o9

U da Man terryR

Next time Candy


----------



## ToddJB

Terry, I as well am waiting for parts, but that is nothing more than my procrastination in ordering.

CL, I do not believe you can send pics in a PM. BUt you can send links if their in a photobucket or the like.


----------



## Hammerthumb

Todd is right Andy. Cant send pics in PMs. Wish they would change that.

Sorry to hear some are bowing out of the swap. I can understand though.

I will have some of the items complete for picture day, and some will be progress pictures. I have been working my fingers to the bone (well, not quite to the bone) on the steel fabrication portion of my pieces.










Still have a lot of grinding and polishing to go. Then a couple of handles to turn. Should not be a problem to make ship date.


----------



## Mosquito

If you use a thread post here to upload the pictures you can just copy the link it creates into the PM (just don't "Post this reply". I've done that in the past.


----------



## terryR

Yikes, Paul! You're working too hard.

You know, they played with the clock feature here a few months ago, we should ask about a photo upload change! I'd like to upload from an iPad without going through the photobucket downsize in image quality. And adding photos to a PM is just an obvious want/need when discussing trades or sales here…


----------



## CL810

Los you are the cleverest guy I know.


----------



## Mosquito

I've had some other projects that have been eating up a lot of time (most non-woodworking). I may see if I can sneak some in tonight and get enough done to post pictures I'll let you know…


----------



## August

Ok here's my teasing pic


----------



## ToddJB

I've never epoxied metal to wood, and I plan on swinging by HD on the way home to pick some up, would either of these products work? One better than another?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/PC-Products-50-ml-SuperEpoxy-000502/100649625?quantity=1

http://www.homedepot.com/p/J-B-Weld-25-ml-ClearWeld-Quick-Set-Epoxy-Syringe-50112/204986141?quantity=1&str_nbr=1505

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-8-5-oz-Epoxy-Tie-Cartridge-SET-XP10/204205071?quantity=1

If it matters the metal will be brass, and it will also have screws in addition to the epoxy.


----------



## Hammerthumb

Todd - I have had some bad experiences with epoxy and now use Gorilla Urethane glue. I guess it also depends on the application. Brass inlays and o1 knife blades are where I have used the urethane. Make sure you scuff the metal surfaces no matter what you use.


----------



## ToddJB

Thanks Paul,

This?


----------



## Hammerthumb

That's the stuff.


----------



## ToddJB

Perfect, Thanks Sir. Just curious what was it about epoxy that went awry?


----------



## Hammerthumb

I made a dovetail marking square with a brass piece where the blade and wood intersect (for wear protection) and it did not stick with 2 attempts. Used Gorilla glue and it held great. Don't know if it was me, or the epoxy (brand new kit). I have used a lot of epoxy in my life on stone, so I don't think I did anything wrong. I know a lot of others prefer epoxy for wood to metal, but I have not had any failures with Gorilla.


----------



## Hammerthumb

By the way, here is the items I used the Gorilla on.


----------



## ToddJB

Cool. Thanks.

Those are pretty.


----------



## Hammerthumb

thanks


----------



## ToddJB

In doing some quick research for those of you following along at home. It appears the only real benefits epoxy offers over Polyurethane is A: shelf life. Poly only last about a year after opened up. B: Filling gaps. Poly will cosmetically fill the gap, but if the gap is 1-2mm the glue doesn't add any strength. So in my and Paul's application it will work great, but fixing a wobbly chair leg or gluing lathe tools into a sloppy handle epoxy is a better bet.


----------



## Hammerthumb

Totally agree Dr. Todd. We you be publishing a thesis? ;-)


----------



## ToddJB

I already did, under my pen name of Christopher Schwartz.

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/thetruthaboutpolyurethaneglue/2


----------



## Hammerthumb

Sorry Mr. Schwartz. I did not realize!


----------



## wormil

> By the way, here is the items I used the Gorilla on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Hammerthumb


These look familiar! 

I've been using ProBond by Elmers for gluing metal to wood. So far it has worked just fine but I typically use a mechanical joint.


----------



## Hammerthumb

Hope those still work well for you Rick. I think my tool making skills have gotten better the last few years. These swaps make you push yourself a little. Gotta say though, the tools I make for myself are never as good as the ones for the swap.


----------



## shipwright

Just a note from someone who has used a lot of epoxy ….....
Please don't judge epoxy by the quick set syringe kits available at box stores.
That stuff bears almost no resemblance to real epoxy.


----------



## summerfi

Just a note on the glue discussion. I had a bad experience once with the Gorilla brand of epoxy (not the urethane). It never got hard and didn't bond. I complained to the company and they sent me a new tube (which I've never used) plus a bottle of Gorilla CA glue. I've never had an issue with the Gorilla urethane. For epoxy, which I use quite a bit of in restoring saw handles, I just use the cheap kind sold by Harbor Freight, and it works very well.

Edit: Paul and I were posting at the same time. I think the Gorilla epoxy qualifies as one of the brands he said to avoid, and I suspect the harbor freight type is real epoxy judging by how it works and sets up. The HF comes in two little toothpaste type tubes that you mix together.


----------



## ToddJB

Paul, are you referring to something like the West System? That is currently out of my price range.

Bob, which of these bad boys are you referring to?


----------



## summerfi

I think it's probably the one in the upper left corner Todd. The tubes look like that, and the regular price is something like $2.99. The tubes are maybe only 2-1/2" long.


----------



## ToddJB

Cool. Thanks Bob. I might have to swing by HF and pick up some of this too. I do really like the appeal of a non-mix Poly, because I always end up making way less or way more than I need when I have to mix these little tubes together (specifically JB Weld).


----------



## summerfi

Just whatever you use the epoxy on, make sure it's clean (no oil or wax) and that you scuff it up with coarse sandpaper.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

I was working on my swap items, but the shop elf demanded my attention. 









It's not like me to wait til the end….but I've been a little busy remodeling


----------



## ToddJB

> but I ve been a little busy remodeling
> 
> - BigRedKnothead


AKA Painting your finger nails?


----------



## terryR

^cute elf!

Yeah, leave those syringes of epoxy at the store. Buy it from a RC model supply company. I get the large 8oz bottles of System 3 for about $15 online. Lasts over a year, and has never loosened on me. Mostly gluing stone to wood.


----------



## shipwright

Actually I was referring to full cure epoxies. Quick cure epoxies are fine for small stuff like what is being discussed here. I use the HF stuff myself but none of them have the real adhesive properties of the 24 hour cure varieties.

I wasn't so much slagging off the quick cure stuff as pointing out that there are epoxies and then there are epoxies. The stuff I have used most is called Cold Cure. It is now sold by System Three but was designed by Jim Peters at Industrial Formulators of Canada. It will cure down to a few degrees above freezing, even under water and unlike almost all other epoxies has no amine blush.

But since no one here is building a boat ….......


----------



## Hammerthumb

That's ok Paul. I think the boat is on Jmartel's list of things to do!


----------



## wormil

The cheapest I'm finding the 16oz kit is close to $40. The 8oz is $23 shipped on Amazon. I might order some soon.


----------



## ToddJB

For the stuff, Terry is mentioning?

Terry, do you have a link?


----------



## jmartel

> That s ok Paul. I think the boat is on Jmartel s list of things to do!
> 
> - Hammerthumb


Correct. Paul and I discussed it briefly on his boat last Summer. I don't think mine will look as nice as his though. And mine will likely be built out of ply.


----------



## shipwright

> The cheapest I m finding the 16oz kit is close to $40. The 8oz is $23 shipped on Amazon. I might order some soon.
> 
> - Rick M.


 Buying epoxy is not for the faint of heart. I used to buy it in 60 litre units. (three five gallon pails give or take) it wasn't cheap then and it is a lot more expensive now.


----------



## terryR

Todd, I haven't bought any epoxy for 3 years…bought 2 sets of bottles the last purchase. Sounds like the same stuff Rick has seen. I get it from a Radio controlled toy site…don't have a favorite. Either 4 or 8oz should last for several tool swaps!

Since my shop is frequently below freezing, I store it the heat closet. Would love to try some cold cure epoxy like PaulM is referring to, since I attach rock to wood, and sell the completed product. As he said, epoxy isn't created equal. The stuff in the syringes at the Borg has failed on me several times! maybe due to storage at their end?

I'm anal, and also mix it by weight…


----------



## terryR

Here is a site that appears to have the two 8 ounce bottles of quick cure for $16.99

http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C10918%7C2259972%7C2259992&id=717976


----------



## wormil

They have the wrong product picture. That is the 8oz kit for $16.99. The 16oz kit is $32.99. Shipping would be $9 for me.


----------



## terryR

^that sux.
Looks like I will be in for sticker shock when these bottles run out…


----------



## ToddJB

Rockler has the 1/2 pint for $23, and they have a $5 in store coupon right now bring it to $18, $20 with tax - if you have a Rockler near you.

http://www.rockler.com/quick-cure-5-minute-epoxy

If you don't they have a 15% off coupon, or Free shipping over $25

http://www.retailmenot.com/landing5/rockler.com?c=6612026

Or Fisheries Supply has it for $15.37 and with selecting "other shipping options" and using parcel shipping it comes to $21.50

https://www.fisheriessupply.com/system-three-epoxy-quick-cure-1000k10


----------



## wormil

I would just buy it from Amazon for $23 and free 2 day shipping.


----------



## jmartel

> Or Fisheries Supply has it for $15.37 and with selecting "other shipping options" and using parcel shipping it comes to $21.50
> 
> https://www.fisheriessupply.com/system-three-epoxy-quick-cure-1000k10
> 
> - ToddJB


Damn you. Looks like I'm going to have to drive over now and pick some up. I live about 10 min from there. Pretty cool store to walk through.


----------



## ToddJB

Ha. I do what I can (google search) with what I have (a computer).


----------



## Hammerthumb

> Or Fisheries Supply has it for $15.37 and with selecting "other shipping options" and using parcel shipping it comes to $21.50
> 
> https://www.fisheriessupply.com/system-three-epoxy-quick-cure-1000k10
> 
> - ToddJB
> 
> Damn you. Looks like I m going to have to drive over now and pick some up. I live about 10 min from there. Pretty cool store to walk through.
> 
> - jmartel


Was just there in December. Not looking for epoxy though. Long way to go for epoxy.


----------



## jmartel

I bought the switches and power ports that I put into my motorcycle from them since it was all marine rated. I used to get a discount there since my company had an account with them. Also bought my life jacket and some other kayaking stuff there.


----------



## Hammerthumb

Cool place.


----------



## August

Is it legal now to post your finish project?


----------



## waho6o9

Getting dangerously close to finishing and wanting to keep her lol

Makes a clean kerf and hopefully will make a good user.

Kinda messed up the sharpening but it's okay.

Good stuff.


----------



## AgentTwitch

You can post it if you like, or provide some close up teaser shots. Either way, we want to see what you have been working on, August

Nice looking saw, Waho!


----------



## August

^i like ok cool


----------



## BigRedKnothead

^That almost looks like particle board Auggie. Don't send me that crud;-)

My teaser looks kinda funny….


----------



## ErikF

Interesting choice for a "teaser" photo red…(dirty old man laugh)

Working on the swap this morning.


----------



## ToddJB

Dialed in my 2×4 prototype, so I busted out the good stuff last night.


----------



## August

Erik what kind of lathe is that? Seems to me you have more than one?
And also got to love the oil tracks on the wall .
Mine is wall to ceiling !

Red that looks rounded don't really want to say what's on my mind LAWl


----------



## ErikF

The lathe in the picture is a 13.5" Sheldon and I do have a couple more that I put to work. Just got the final one wired into the new shop so chips are flying.


----------



## ToddJB

Any of ya'll ever peen brass? If I wanted to make a right angle with 1/8" brass flat stock could I just make some basic dovetails and then peen them with a ball peen, or would I need to anneal?


----------



## Ripthorn

If you are using something like 360, then you shouldn't have to anneal before peening. If you had hard brass, you might, but I'm not certain. 360 is by far the most common, thus all I really know about.


----------



## waho6o9

I've never gotten a 90 degree peening brass.

PM me if you need some.


----------



## ToddJB

Ripthorn, it's "0.125×3 Extruded C360 H02 (Half Hard) Brass Rectangle Bar", so I presume the C360 means, 360?

Waho, thanks for the offer, but I need it to be like to be an odd shape.

I'll give it a go, and see how the results turn out.

Would you make the pins and tails a bit longer and peen on both sides, or only peen the tails?


----------



## Ripthorn

Yep, that's 360. If I were you, I would make a peening buck out of wood. Essentially it is just a wooden form that you clamp your pieces to when you peen to that they hold the shape. Make both sides longer to that you can peen it on both edges.


----------



## ToddJB

Awesome. Thanks.


----------



## summerfi

Todd, you shouldn't have to anneal brass to peen the dovetails, but you may or may not need to anneal it to get to 90 degrees. When I make brass saw backs, that's basically a 180 degree bend, and I anneal usually about 3 times. Brass work hardens easily, and if it gets too hard it will crack. You may be lucky and not have it crack with a 90 degree bend, or you may not. It does bend easier if it's annealed.


----------



## ToddJB

I'm not bending the brass. I'll be making the 90 with the dovetails. Though if I end up sucking at it, then I'll be bending. Thanks, Bob.


----------



## August

Nice Eriki have the R17 
Love sheldon equipment
I wish I kept my sheldon shaper.
A Freindade me an offer I couldn't refuse.
Dose yours comes with a taper atacthment?


----------



## ToddJB

I'm pushing myself for a lot of "firsts" for this swap - so sorry if the questions come in often.

I'm planning on doing a fairly detailed brass inlay










The brass is 1/8" and this is roughly 7/8"x1.5". I feel good about cutting out the brass, but I'm hesitant about how to approch the inlay. Any suggested methods?


----------



## summerfi

Todd, I'm sure there will be different answers, but here's how I would approach it. When you shape the brass, put a slight taper on it, so the shape is slightly smaller on the back side than the front. When you're ready to inlay it, place it on the substrate, back side down, and mark around it with a lead pencil. Then, cut to the pencil line or slightly larger, so that the brass goes part way in the hole. Then, mark on the edge of the brass with a lead pencil and put it back in the hole. Wherever lead appears in the hole, it means you have to remove a little more wood there. Keep doing that until the brass fits perfectly in the hole. It is a tedious and slow process, but it will end up with a perfect tight fit.

As to how to remove the wood from the hole, there are various options. You can mark around the profile with a sharp knife or with chisels and gouges on the straight and round segments. Then you can remove the wood with chisels, a router, or whatever.


----------



## ToddJB

Thanks, Bob, that is similar to what I envisioned in my mind. I'm not sure what method I'll use to actually remove the waste and keep a flat bottom.


----------



## jmartel

I use Bob's method with a Router. I have a 1/8" chisel to clean up corners with. Been meaning to pick up or make a 1/16" chisel as well.


----------



## summerfi

If you end up with a little gap somewhere, you can mix sanding dust from the same wood with glue and fill it in. I use Duco cement for that because it doesn't look a lighter color like some glues when dry.


----------



## ToddJB

I little laminate router would be nice. I wonder if I could rig my rotozip up for a consistent depth?


----------



## Ripthorn

When I inlay on my guitars, I use a dremel with a specialized router base and small bits (1/8, 1/16, 1/32) to route the cavity. How large is your design? A laminate trimmer might work, but I would be leery of it.

As for gaps, clear epoxy or CA glue with dust will work nicely on darker woods. If you are inlaying into maple, you will never get the dust mixture to look right.

Finally, I think that doing an all hand inlay for a one off smaller inlay would be fine to do, just use small chisels and an exacto knife.


----------



## summerfi

Todd, check this out.
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/108138


----------



## waho6o9

Todd's gonna knock it out of the park.

No doubt.


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

I've done a couple of practice inlay pieces, here's what I did:

- Use duco cement to temporarily glue the brass where you want it
- trace it with a fine pointed scribe or x-axto so you have an exact layout
- rub powdered chalk into the line to make it more visible
- route the cavity with a small bit, I used a 1/8" and 1/16" spiral carbide. This was the hardest part. Route out the bulk of the cavity to within 1/16" or less of the line, then slowly sneak up to it
- Glue in with CA, I filled the gaps around the edge with it too

I'm no expert, but that is the process that I've seen the experts use


----------



## ToddJB

Thanks Riphorn, it's 7/8" by 1.5". I have a rotozip, which is just a bit bigger than a dremel but takes the same bits.

Bob, that's badass, thanks. And that's to Paul for making it. I know have an attachment for it for setting a depth for cutting drywall, but I think it's a lil sketchy, I'll have to see on test pieces, that doesn't work to my satisfaction, I'll make something (a lot uglier) like Paul's.

Thanks for the vote of confidence, Waho.

Thanks Joe.


----------



## donwilwol

I'd do something similar to Bob's, but I've found lead only works on light wood. Try some lamp black or charcoal, or even a charcoal pencil. The black is easier to see. I use it for inletting rifle stocks, and plane infill's.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

> I little laminate router would be nice. I wonder if I could rig my rotozip up for a consistent depth?
> 
> - ToddJB


I feel like I have more control with full-sized router for inlays. Even with a little bowtie inlay. The big routers don't wanna jump around. Unless the surface is so small a larger router would rock.


----------



## ToddJB

Rocking is exactly what I'm concerned with, but I think I can clamp it level between my shoulder vice and bench top to create a large flat surface.


----------



## KelvinGrove

Looking at all this fancy stuff has me worried. I hope my simple stuff doesn't disappoint.

Up side is, brass stock should be here this week.


----------



## DaddyZ

Gotta Drop Fella's, Got a summons for jury duty for next week


----------



## AgentTwitch

Pat, sorry to hear that you wont be able to complete the swap. Good luck!


----------



## AgentTwitch

Dovetail Tool Swappers,

Please send me a photo of your project along with your LJ handle to njstickney (at) gmail (dot) com, or PM me a link from your photobucket or other photo hosting service. It doesnt have to be complete, but it should be on its way to completion in time for the deadline.

I have only received photos / heard from from:

Red, Ripthorn, ToddJB, Terry, and Waho. I have seen some teaser photos from others, but I need a good status photo as we are 1 month out.

Remember, the swap isnt about skill having, its about skill building and having a good time.


----------



## waho6o9

> You can post it if you like, or provide some close up teaser shots. Either way, we want to see what you have been working on, August
> 
> Nice looking saw, Waho!
> 
> - AgentTwitch


Thanks Norm some how I missed that, Oops.

Take care of what you gotta do DaddyZ and we'll catch you on the 
next swap.


----------



## intelligen

Sorry, in the Superbowl excitement I forgot to send a status photo yesterday. Any chance I can still stay in this swap if I get my photos to you this evening?


----------



## DaddyZ

Thanks Twitch & Waho

I so enjoy these swaps, but as of right now I just don't see how


----------



## ToddJB

Did you tell the judge that you have important tool swap with your online buddies?


----------



## AgentTwitch

you guys can send me swap photos this week. No problem!


----------



## ToddJB

My finest chisel work to date. Gifting to another woodworker is making me up my game.


----------



## AgentTwitch

DaddyZ,

Just tell them you know a guilty person when you see one during the jury selection.


----------



## waho6o9

Clean work ToddJB you must have surgical

edges on your chisels very good.


----------



## Iguana

Progress pics sent…


----------



## sepeck

Progress pics sent. Although I must say I look at the various teasers and keep looking at my stuff and saying 'STRETCH' like it will help make them prettier.


----------



## Hammerthumb

I sent pics yesterday also. Sorry for being late with pics, but I picked up a bug and was down for the count the last few days.


----------



## AgentTwitch

Mark, Steven, Paul - I received your photos. Thanks! Projects are looking great, everyone!


----------



## August

Norm i just my project pic to your email ?
let me know if you receive it thanks


----------



## AgentTwitch

Got it, August! Thanks! Looks great!


----------



## August

^ perfect cool thanks
Ok I'm in for the next swap??!!?


----------



## AgentTwitch

Yes August, you are still in the swap. To be clear, if anyone signed up for the swap and just missed a photo deadline, no problem. Just get me a photo as soon as possible, by Sunday, Feb 8 at the latest. This is to make sure folks can meet the swap ship date before we identify who your tool swap goes to.

I will put out a list of who needs to send photos Tomorrow.


----------



## terryR

Ahhh…hardware here.
Finally I have a teaser photo…


----------



## shipwright

Message and photo sent.
Here's a teaser. ... You won't guess.


----------



## August

^looks like 1/4 brass turned down????


----------



## lateralus819

Man that wenge on that LN is all kinds of class! Looks good Terry.


----------



## terryR

Paul, that's an easy one…it's a thingy that is sticking out of a piece of wood.

Thanks, Lat. hoping to wear the wax finish off, and go for poly in a couple of months.


----------



## AgentTwitch

Paul, thanks for the photo. Good looking project and teaser photo!

Terry, did you make the LN tote and knob? I know they offer them in rosewood. Looks great!


----------



## August

Well Terry when ever your ready I have one or two LN in the collection ????


----------



## sepeck

I'd post a teaser pic but that would give it away. So I guess I can say, 'walnut' and leave it at that?

I was not thrilled with how mine was going so dug around and found some nice inspiration on some stuff ShaneA has done. Happy now! Almost done too.


----------



## bobasaurus

Looks like I need to get myself in gear on this swap, stupid procrastination. I did make a russian olive mallet today, I wonder if something like it would be a nice addition:




























Unfortunately the log was cracked pretty badly, so I turned most of it into shavings and was left with this cute little mallet. It's barely bigger than my hand, should be nice for detail work.


----------



## ErikF

Progress picture - which one will it be?


----------



## AgentTwitch

Looking good, Erik! But I am not sure if you have enough options yet.

I wonder if 100 years from now if the copper will develop the nice green patina that copper sometimes gets. I took a foundry class in college and used chemicals and heat to speed that process up for copper, bronze and some aluminum.


----------



## AgentTwitch

I still need the following LumberJocks to send me a progress picture, by Sunday, February 8.

Bobasaurus
ChadRat6458
GMatheson
midnightww
Poohbaah
Rick M.
Rob
RPhillips
ShaneA
Tugboater 78

Please send the pic to njstickney [at] gmail [dot] com

The purpose of the photo is to make sure that you can meet the March shipping deadline to participate in the swap as outlined in the swap rules.

Thanks! You guys rock!


----------



## ToddJB

Erik, are those beautiful items sitting on a door? I hope so - makes you more human in my eyes.

Allen, the mallet looks great. My neighbor has a big Russian Olive that he keeps talking about cutting down, I am waiting patiently (sort of).


----------



## terryR

Allen, nice mallet! That's the largest piece of Russian Olive I've ever seen! (the log)

Norm, yeah, those LN handles are shop-made…now taking custom orders!


----------



## ErikF

> Erik, are those beautiful items sitting on a door? I hope so - makes you more human in my eyes.
> 
> Allen, the mallet looks great. My neighbor has a big Russian Olive that he keeps talking about cutting down, I am waiting patiently (sort of).
> 
> - ToddJB


Haha- I'm not sure why the hole is in it but it was a maple table top at one point. My shop generally has a few very ghetto elements in use…

Terry, that wenge I'm sweet!


----------



## waho6o9

Highly recommend ^

Good work ErikF many thanks


----------



## ErikF

> Highly recommend ^
> 
> Good work ErikF many thanks
> 
> - waho6o9


Thanks for the shoutout , Waho!


----------



## AgentTwitch

Terry, those are HOT! nice collection, by the way. What do you think of the No. 164?

You should make the hot dog handle for the low angle jack, if you havent already.

You have to share the going rate for those first class knobs/totes!


----------



## wormil

Usually this time of year I'm twiddling my thumbs wanting something to do but this year has been abnormally busy. The taxes are done; and Saturday one big thing will be off my plate for a little while and if I can't get progress pics by Sat night, I'll drop out. More disappointing to me than anyone, I'd rather be woodworking.


----------



## Mosquito

I hear ya Rick, maybe I can send you what I started and you can finish it lol


----------



## Mosquito

Oh, and Norm, I've got an LN 164 and quite like it


----------



## ToddJB

Getting some detail work in tonight. These HF needle diamond files are money for this detailed brass work. But I should have definitely ordered thinner brass for inlays - 1/8th sucks to shape on something this small.


----------



## sepeck

So, random question. When turning, does one stop at 600 grit? Cause (maybe it's Walnut if it matters) this is the first time I have sanded something to 600 grit and now I am sort of curious. The 400 and 600 I did with mineral oil.

Do I keep going? Do I jump over to steel wool? I have some Mylands I can use at the end but it didn't occur to me to test it after sanding to this grit with my previous experiments.


----------



## waho6o9

I went to 800 on my last bowl and it polished up nicely.

You can keep going Sepeck and then use the steel wool.

Bronze wool works as well, I get mine on Ebay.


----------



## terryR

Norm, +1to the 164! Just the right size for many tasks…thick iron, adjustable mouth, no slop in the plane's adjusters.

Todd, that looks great! Looks like a ton of effort. Looking for thinner brass? Grab a double light switch cover at the Borg for $5. Solid brass…quite thin…

Nice segmented bowl, waho…cherry and maple?

sepek, sanding on the lathe is a personal preference. I have some store bought tool handles which still show lathe marks, so they weren't sanded very much at all, but i still paid for the tool. my preference is to remove all chisel marks, and hopefully, all scratch marks…just my OCD kicking in…plus I try to sell this stuff! 

For me, 600 grit is the minimum stopping point. Wood surface changes at 600 and above and becomes exceptionally smooth. Go for as high a grit as you can stand, and afford. I usually stop at 1200 grit with paper and finish with one of these micro mesh abrasives…1500-2500 grit! Seriously.










It will make a difference, I promise. And those woven abrasives last years…I know they look pricey.

walnut finished with Borg oil…


----------



## ToddJB

Thanks Terry, and thanks for the tip about light covers.

Is that bowl finished with only Howards? I love that stuff. Do you add finish only after going to that high of grit? Do you see any issues with it soaking in?

Also, the mirco mesh. Where did you find that image/kit? All the ones I see online are one sheet of a bunch of different grits. That looks like multiple sheets of 3 grits.


----------



## terryR

Todd, yep, just Howard's oil for a finish after sanding. No problems with the oil soaking into the wood after being polished to 1000 grit!

The image above came from Klingspor…

https://www.woodworkingshop.com/search.aspx?q=mesh+abrasive

...looks like 2sheets of many grit. It's time for me to buy more, so let me search for a better package…


----------



## wormil

I have been sanding to 400 then buffing/burnishing with sawdust, good enough for utility. The automotive sandpaper (600,800,1000,1500,2000) I have leaves dark streaks, so I need to buy some micro mesh. I sanded a piece of oak up to 2000 once, it looked and felt like glass (glass with big open pores, lol). I sanded ebony up to 1000 or 1500, can't remember, and it was beautiful. The tighter the grain, the harder the wood, the darker the wood, the more it will benefit from high grit.


----------



## terryR

Ahhh…finally found the stuff I have in my shop…










It's called non-woven abrasive, not micro-mesh. The maroon is 360 grit and is awesome for removing rust WITHOUT shining up a vintage tool. The grays are 1500 and 2500 grit. Great for taking a pretty piece over the top…

Source is

http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/t/36/Sheet-Abrasives

and they also have Abranet up to 600 grit. this stuff lasts forever! That Mirka is $7 for three sheets, so I try to grab it when I'm ordering other stuff…


----------



## August

TerryR 
I'm still waiting for my handles

Playing with some brass


----------



## sepeck

Using local resources 800 grit and 0000 steel wool looks amazing. Which will be sufficient for now. I will have to order some stuff for the next one. My wife is making noises about something for her knitting sanded this much…. not sure…


----------



## Ripthorn

I started up something that may end up a bonus item for my swap item. All I can really say right now is bloodwood and cherry…mmmmm


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Today I realized this is the first swap where I'm not making something I haven't make before. Oh well, each of the items are better than the ones I first made. Also realized I hadn't actually cut a dovetail in like six months. One of the items gave me reason to practice. I'm a little rusty….but not too shabby.


----------



## sepeck

Tested on the waste side of it. Down to 800 grit, then 0000 steel wool with mineral oil because that's what I started with and then some of the Mylands finish. Still more to go.

I did this swap to challenge myself. Pretty happy I did.


----------



## RPhillips

Sorry Norm, been busy with work. My project is ready, ill send pics today or tomorrow.


----------



## ShaneA

I will send pics this weekend too. I still have a long way to go. I would not want to ruin my reputation as a procrastinator.


----------



## terryR

Looks great, sepeck! No need to go out and buy new stuff…just sharing tips for down the road…

What sort of Mylands finish are you using? I like it. And need to progress past my wax finishes!!!

ShaneA, long time…I'd be most upset if I finished before YOU! 

August, mail me some spectacular wood…about 100 board feet should be enough for a few totes! AND, I'll need that carriage maker's plane to accurately copy the wood…LOL!


----------



## sepeck

I got a bottle of Mylands high Build Friction Polish for Christmas. I hadn't used it before, just oil, then some random wax on some things (wands I made for the kids and their friends). Last night I found a Cap'n Eddie video he has a recipe for a friction finish I hope to try in the future as well. 1/3 each: Boiled linseed oil, Shellac and alcohol.

I was frustrated because I couldn't get things looking as nice as various examples I had seen. The sanding down more seems to have been the solution I was looking for. Now I am going to have to go make some of my earlier things over again for fun. Also, my wife has a slightly growing list of things associated with knitting and sock making for me when I get around to it.

-Steven


----------



## terryR

Thanks for that recipe, Steven. Have the ingredients already.

How funny…I've been turning wands, too! Lots of fun!


----------



## sepeck

I don't have any of my wands posted!!! I will have to find pictures for the project page. The nice thing about the wands is they are awesome practice pieces. Since there is no plan, you can try anything. If you screw up, it just makes it 'different'.


----------



## AgentTwitch

Rob and Shane, no worries. I will look for your photo today or this weekend.

I have to tell you all that the projects that have been shared with me so far are fantastic!


----------



## DaddyZ

You guys are going to make me wish I was still Involved in this swap….

;(


----------



## BigRedKnothead

That's funny, I've been using a process very similar to cap'n Eddies shine juice….and I was just wingin it.


----------



## wormil

The Shine Juice works well, a bit soft and dulls quickly with frequent handling, or at least mine do. Maybe not the best choice for a really durable finish like a knife handle.

Also I realized that nearly everything taking up my "free" time will be done as of Saturday so I should be good to go.


----------



## Hammerthumb

Little teaser shot


----------



## terryR

Paul, looks great!
Need my address?


Started a 2nd gift to sweeten my swap…


----------



## Ripthorn

Bonus item is almost complete. I think it will turn out pretty well. I'll have to see about a teaser shot.


----------



## sepeck

Mines all done. Need to get pictures taken and sent in later. I started this to push myself. Now I need to make another one for myself. Fun fun fun!


----------



## waho6o9

That's awesome sepeck!


----------



## bobasaurus

Waited till the last minute, but I finally started my swap project. Marking gauge in progress, made from an old hacksaw blade and some scrap walnut and padauk:





































My mortise chopping skills are pretty crappy, hopefully my wedge will make it tight enough to use.


----------



## ShaneA

I sent my picture, got a ways more to go, but I am a last minute type of guy. Let me know if you don't get the email. Thanks


----------



## AgentTwitch

ShaneA and Bobasaurus, great stuff! Thanks for the pics


----------



## wormil

My time is freed up now and got my table saw aligned today but I don't like starting this late especially since I've never made the main tool I was planning, and it wouldn't be fair to the folks who have been putting in effort and refining their tools so I'm dropping out. On the bright side I can finish some things that are half done. Sorry guys.


----------



## intelligen

> My time is freed up now and got my table saw aligned today but I don t like starting this late especially since I ve never made the main tool I was planning, and it wouldn t be fair to the folks who have been putting in effort and refining their tools so I m dropping out. On the bright side I can finish some things that are half done. Sorry guys.
> 
> - Rick M.


Hey Rick, don't drop out if you were able to free up the time! Norm's original post said, "Remember, this is skill building, not skill having," and I'm taking that to heart. I don't think my swap item will win any prizes (at least, not any desirable ones!) but at worst I'll have the honor of providing a couple nice pieces of kindling for a better woodworker's fireplace.

Whatever you're building, I'd be glad to receive your swap item, whether you decide to stick with the original plan or build something else.


----------



## ToddJB

Process teaser.










Why is he tapping a rounded off tuba-fore?


----------



## terryR

Allen, that looks great! 

I bummed up a marking gauge yesterday…










...mortise is a little too sloppy for the beam. I added epoxy to a couple of gaps, but it didn't make me any happier. Maybe I can fettle this tool for my use later? So, another design today. Copying a LN cutting gauge this time, with the beam rotated 45 degrees…goodness…laying out that mortise took 20 minutes!

Ya know, maybe 3-4 months is too much time for our swaps? I've had time to drop out, re-join, and re-start! It's just impossible to predict what real life can bring to the table in a 4 month period! 

In good news, at least I found a use for these crappy Grobet USA saw files…

EDIT…John, I know why you're rounding and tapping 2×4! Same reason I plan to! LOL!!!


----------



## waho6o9

> My time is freed up now and got my table saw aligned today but I don t like starting this late especially since I ve never made the main tool I was planning, and it wouldn t be fair to the folks who have been putting in effort and refining their tools so I m dropping out. On the bright side I can finish some things that are half done. Sorry guys.
> 
> - Rick M.
> 
> Hey Rick, don t drop out if you were able to free up the time! Norm s original post said, "Remember, this is skill building, not skill having," and I m taking that to heart. I don t think my swap item will win any prizes (at least, not any desirable ones!) but at worst I ll have the honor of providing a couple nice pieces of kindling for a better woodworker s fireplace.
> 
> Whatever you re building, I d be glad to receive your swap item, whether you decide to stick with the original plan or build something else.
> 
> - Rob


In the true spirit of the swap ^

Ron's da Man


----------



## KelvinGrove

One more part needed to finish one of the tools….

Here are teaser shots of that.



















And the brass for tool #4 came today so this weekend some quality time learning some new skills.


----------



## bobasaurus

More marking gauge progress today. Cutting/filing a notch to keep ragged board edges from interfering with fence registration:










Chiseling a groove for the blade:










Screwed them in. I decided to make two gauges so I could keep one:










Cut/filed slopes in the mortises to accept wedges:










The wedges work surprisingly well. Might make the mortise slopes deeper so the wedges are more robust at the thin end.


----------



## AgentTwitch

the Blackwood polishes out nicely with just abrassives. Should be able to get it quite smooth.


----------



## sepeck

that's pretty


----------



## CFrye

That is pretty, Norm! Is that sapwood?


----------



## bobasaurus

That blackwood looks great, love the contrast. You guys making saws are amazing, seems like a ton of work.


----------



## AgentTwitch

That cream color is sapwood. Saw making isn't that difficult, but there are some tedious parts. I think they are a lot of fun to make.


----------



## CFrye

Nice!


----------



## midnightww

Ron, I just emailed my picture. I sincerely apologize for being late. I had the 12th in my head for some reason. I hope I am not too late.


----------



## AgentTwitch

Daniel, I have you down. You are all set


----------



## ToddJB

Norm, that handle is amazing.

On another note, I'm do angry right now. I think I may have just screwed my project. More to come later.


----------



## AgentTwitch

Todd, oh no! I hope you can save it


----------



## Ripthorn

Bonus item is almost complete! Just need to let some epoxy cure, then a little bit of sanding, some oil, and we're golden (or brazen?).


----------



## waho6o9

Bonus item doing the epoxy thing tonight.

Strong work going on folks keep at it!

You can save it Todd!


----------



## ToddJB

I'm pissed because I loved my design. I do think it is salvageable but not without some aesthetic changes, which will be okay, but not the plan. So I'm bummed. Also this means I might not get to bonus items which I was pumped about. If I decide to make another for myself, I might offer to swap with my recipient for the non "retrofitted" version. And I might send follow up bonus items later if I cannot get to them

Being a perfectionist with little time and nominal experience is a terrible combination of attributes.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

> Being a perfectionist with little time and nominal experience is a terrible combination of attributes.
> 
> - ToddJB


I feel ya. Story of my life;-)


----------



## ToddJB

After a night to sleep on it, I might have a plan. I'll start tonight and see how it works out. If the plan goes flawlessly the fix shouldn't be too noticeable and I can keep my original design. If not, than I'm not sure what I'll do. Regardless it will set me back quite a bit.


----------



## terryR

Norm, that tote looks amazing! Love the contrast of the sapwood!

Todd, hang in there, bud. The rest of us are going through the same emotions! 

While in the doldrums of failure, I managed to see a "new" design for a marking gauge. Well, not new to the world, I'm certain someone has turned a gauge before, but I haven't seen one to copy. Actually, I turned the Osage gauge in the background of the photo three years ago, but never liked the design.

Anyhow, here's my prototype of a turned marking gauge from cherry…










...works OK, but needs a larger fence. Second attempt proved that! Feel free to copy, and embellish. Rod is 5/8" diameter. Marking pin is HSS captured by sex screw.


----------



## ToddJB

> Marking pin is HSS captured by sex screw.
> 
> - terryR


how risque


----------



## sepeck

You know, terryR, even after seeing all the machined 'round' marking gauges it simply hadn't occurred to me to try for a turned wood one. I think I have a new 'project' to put on the try list after a few other items are marked complete. I am thinking I will try a set screw as opposed to what you used though.


----------



## terryR

^LOL!

Cannot believe I overlooked the round wooden beams, either. The 5/8" feels great in the hand! Really, no lathe is needed…just a hardwood dowel and a drill bit in a brace. Fence could easily be square, too.

No micro-adjust like August's or Erik's, however.


----------



## sepeck

But…... but I have a lathe! With which I am trying to get better on!


----------



## ToddJB

Fix in progress. Won't know if its acceptable until Friday night when I get some more shop time.


----------



## waho6o9

A redo in progress, Oops.

Gotta get stronger metal.


----------



## Hammerthumb

I'm all finished except for heat treating and sharpening. I'll get that done tomorrow. Might have time for one more item.


----------



## ToddJB

I think my fix is going to be a go. It'll set be back a couple of sessions cause I'm having to refinish it now, but the fix, I think, will be barely noticeable. I'm thankful for that. We'll see how many other small things I can get to now.

Waho, what did you use for metal? I know a lot of guys have been using 1/2 speed bore bits, but nobodies commented on how they are holding up.


----------



## Ripthorn

Bonus item is done. That might be all I have time for, but we will see.


----------



## terryR

Waho, that split nut driver looks comfy to hold! Love the brass ferrule, too. What sort of metal did ya use? I cannot see any problem with the photo.

Been using an Irwin speed bore here…no worries. Crappy drill bits…unless you're boring into the old barn…but fine for screwdrivers used against brass nuts.

Norm, do you need another round of status photos, or are we just supposed to finish the build already.


----------



## sepeck

Depending on how things go I'll see how I do with a small bonus item this weekend myself.


----------



## waho6o9

I don't know Todd, the metal was in the garage so I used it. Didn't see

the need to temper it so I'll figure something out.

One of the teeth bent a little terry because I guess the fit

wasn't perfect.

On to another one.


----------



## KelvinGrove

All tools are made…some finishing up to do though. When will we be assigned our swap buddy?

And here is a teaser photo… first time using sheaf rivets…


----------



## Hammerthumb

Cool looking rivits Tim!

All done heat treating and sharpening. Polished and wax. Ready for boxing up. I'll get a few more pics tomorrow before packing up. May post another teaser.

I think it's time we find out who our recipients are.


----------



## bobasaurus

More progress on the gauges:









Cutting a fancy shape on the body.









Cleaning up some brass rod to make rivets.









Riveted the walnut beam together at the end to prevent splitting from the blade torquing the sides of its cutout in use.









Two coats of amber shellac so far (after some filing and tons of sanding). The padauk is becoming ridiculously shiny… I'll knock it down with steel wool and wax it later.


----------



## AgentTwitch

Folks, I will issue out swap partners tonight. There are members who are dropping out last minute.

Excellent progress pics!


----------



## ToddJB

Thanks Norm.

Looks like the project was saved and some bonus items are in progress.


----------



## AgentTwitch

LJ Swap details have been sent out through private message!

*PLEASE* make sure that you complete your project and send it out to your partner by the deadline. The deadline is key. Once you send your tool swap item(s), please post "Sent!" in this thread.

I have attempted to accommodate everyone who specified a desired tool. I also had to make a last minute change due to another drop.


----------



## August

Cool got it and also got the message
Well let's work on the next swap???!


----------



## waho6o9

Got it. It's going to be close but I'll make it.

• Ship Date: March 2, 2015


----------



## ToddJB

Got mine. Thanks.


----------



## KelvinGrove

Got mine. And do we have an "everyone open at the same time" date or just bust into 'em as soon as ya get 'em?

For me, everything is done except some finishing stuff. Will be out in plenty of time.


----------



## AgentTwitch

Open them as soon as you get them! Who can resist?

Take lots of photos and start posting images and thoughts on or after March 2nd.

I would ask that everyone wait for up to 1 week from the ship due date before finding out where packages are in transit. Let me know if you haven't received your item and I will contact your swap partner. Stragglers will be posted on the thread :-D

Remember, post that your item has shipped


----------



## waho6o9

Will do

Thanks again Norm


----------



## AgentTwitch

Thanks everyone!


----------



## terryR

Norm just curious…are we swapping one-on-one with a partner, or in a round robin fashion?

On schedule here…have one extra gift if needed…


----------



## AgentTwitch

Terry, the swap partners are round robin, based on requested tool, tool built, previous swap partner excemption if identified etc. So, LJ 1 partner is LJ 4, LJ 4 partner is LJ 5, LJ 5 partner is LJ 2, etc…clear as mud?


----------



## terryR

LOL.
Yes, I think I understood that exactly.
Clear as FROZEN mud!
brrrrrrr…


----------



## LucasWoods

I can't wait to get in on the next one!! I missed this one sadly


----------



## Hammerthumb

Mine is boxed and waiting for the UPS man to pick up.


----------



## ShaneA

You guys are a bunch of over achievers. I was thinking we had till the 2nd of March. That is like a year from now. I still am thinking about additional items to make.


----------



## Hammerthumb

Shane - if I didn't get it out of the shop, I would continue to tinker with it and probably foul it up. Besides, with it out of the way, I can now concentrate on other projects. You know I get distracted easily with shiney objects!


----------



## Hammerthumb

Teaser shot:










;-)


----------



## Ripthorn

Looks like some heat treating action. My items are boxed up. Need to get a shipping label on it and get it out of the house.


----------



## bobasaurus

Paul, that looks great. Did you use insulated firebrick? I want to build a proper heat treating kiln someday, big enough for chef knives.

Got my match, good to go. I'll finish up the marking gauge soon and maybe include a few extras  .


----------



## ToddJB

Man, you are all eager beavers. I've still got some work to do.


----------



## terryR

Nice kiln, Paul! What's your heat? hey…how often do you have to mow that lawn…I love it!

Me, too, Todd. No hurries.


----------



## AgentTwitch

Excellent work, gents! I want to have my swap item boxed up…I made a big oopsie and had to take corrective action. Now I just need to assemble the item after the finish has time to cure and buff out, should be a few more days and I will be good to go. In the mean time, I am debating acid etching the saw plate. I want to, but I dont want it to come out crappy.


----------



## waho6o9

Sometimes it's best to leave well enough alone.


----------



## KelvinGrove

Being skillful means you can create something….being artistic means you know when it can't be improved anymore.


----------



## ToddJB

> Sometimes it s best to leave well enough alone.
> 
> - waho6o9


I've had learn and relearn that a few times this swap.


----------



## bobasaurus

Progress pics:









Decided to shape the blades into a radius. They sharpened up well on my paper wheels (and I cut myself not 5 minutes after, of course).









As an extra, I started making a brass adjusting hammer for the gauges. I'm lucky to have access to the old Bridgeport mill at work.









Made a slot to accept a handle without allowing the head to rotate in use.


----------



## CFrye

I'm kicking myself for procrastinating and having to drop out. You all are really making it hard. LOL Great looking teaser shots…looking foreward to all the reveals!


----------



## waho6o9

Ah Candy, your contribution would've been appreciated.


----------



## Ripthorn

You know, it's a little nerveracking when your assigned swap recipient is one of the most accomplished Lumberjocks…We'll see how this goes!


----------



## ToddJB

I look forward to getting your item, Rip


----------



## Hammerthumb

> You know, it s a little nerveracking when your assigned swap recipient is one of the most accomplished Lumberjocks…We ll see how this goes!
> 
> - Ripthorn


I know what you mean Ripthorn.

Todd - Bless your heart.

Been a little busy. Firebrick for the kiln. Donated by our Local 13 BAC union. Don't know how hot it gets. I use the yellow gas bottle. Heat until the O-1 is non-magnetic and then oil quench. Used motor oil for the last batch as the missus got made at me stealing her olive oil. :-0

Terry - back yard and front yard were grass. 1/4 acre lot with a 1700sqft home made for a very high water bill. Hard to keep that much grass alive when its 115deg here. Took most of it out 2 years ago. Besides the water bill bonus, it only takes me 15 minutes to mow now, compared to 2 hours.


----------



## August

So do we post the finish product now?


----------



## terryR

Allen, I should've recommended an excellent book by Wayne Goddard called The $50 Knife Shop. He shows how to make a one-brick forge, and uses it to heat his full size knives. Awesome book! Lots of money and time saving tips.

Paul, I use yellow gas and used diesel oil. wanna try crisco…hear it smells nicer! 

Congrats on losing most of your grass! Odd how we live in such starkly differing environments. Water just runs out of all the mountain caves here, so we get it free. However, it's a part-time job keeping our water supply running and filtered! Also takes days to mow my 5-6 acres of weeds. It never gets done all at once, even with a ZTR, push mower, weed eater, and bush hog.


----------



## bobasaurus

Terry, that sounds neat. I like tinkering with electronics, so building a PID-controlled electric element kiln sounds fun to me. My father owns a small one that I use now for pocket knives, but long kitchen knives would be fun to make someday.

I also hate grass, someday I will rip mine out and put in rocks (or a larger shop).


----------



## Hammerthumb

August - in prior swaps we have waited until the presentation day which Norm has not posted yet. He does have a ship date of March 2nd, but no reveal date yet. It is usually up to the moderator when we can post pictures.


----------



## Hammerthumb

Terry - I lived in Washington on the Columbia river gorge, so I know what you mean about springs. Here in the desert, not so much.

I love grass. As I got older, not so much either! I would rather be plying golf on it, and let someone else cut it.


----------



## sepeck

> You know, it s a little nerveracking when your assigned swap recipient is one of the most accomplished Lumberjocks…We ll see how this goes!
> 
> - Ripthorn
> 
> I know what you mean Ripthorn.
> 
> - Hammerthumb


Heh. Maybe I am just new to this. I joined the swap to be a little more active in community, and stretch myself with something I haven't done before. My hope was/is that whomever gets my tool likes it and enjoys using it occasionally. I learned a bit stretching myself as I doubt I would have pushed it as much had I just been making it myself. Now I know how to do it so next time I will push myself just that much further.

Speaking of which, what/when is the next swap survey going out? Wondering if I will be wanting/able to mark out some of my spring shop time for a project other then that 'other list' I have 

Steven


----------



## Hammerthumb

Steven - I think Ripthorn, Todd, and myself were just joking around. I think everyone who participates, makes, gives, and receives, will be appreciative. This is not a talent contest. I love and use all of the tools I have received in these swaps.

As far as stretching your creative abilities and talent, this is exactly why I participate. Got to tell you, the tools I make for myself are never the quality of what I send out to others. You need to appreciate what you have created, as I'm sure the recipient will!

As far as the next swap, we are always looking for volunteers as the moderator! ;-)


----------



## ToddJB

Steven - I 2nd Paul, the only way Ripthorn was meaning me was if he was being as sarcastic as I was in my comment (which can be proven by my projects page).

This was a huge stretching experience for me, as well. This is what I would call my first "Fine Woodworking" project. I mostly work with free reclaimed wood that I make into projects that keep that feel. So tight joinery, sanding, finishing, inlays - the list goes on as to what I've learned (or atleast tried) with this swap. But I will say that I'm so happy I did it and so far am very pleased with the result, and am pumped for it to go to a fellow jock as they will understand my efforts.

All of that to say - you're in good company.


----------



## Mosquito

I have had a lot of firsts in these swaps myself too… First mallet, First marking knife, First marking gauge. Lots of fun getting to try new things; especially when you can always fall back on the idea that if it sucks and doesn't work that well, it's going to be someone elses problem  (sarcasm)


----------



## Hammerthumb

The fear I always have with these swaps is that the wood I have is acclimated to Las Vegas (exceptionally dry) and the item may explode if shipped to Florida! So far, no complaints, but I think JayT had to make a minor adjustment to the hand plane I sent him.


----------



## terryR

+1 to learning, and having fun. It sure seemed easier to build my first plane when lots of others were doing it at the same time and had the same questions.

And, the fellowship amongst woodworkers cannot be beat! Meeting in person over pizza would be better, but downright impossible…

Love my LJ-made tools. In fact, the scrub plane I got from Candy is a real user, Much better than my Stanley 40!

Although, now I worry over wood movement as well…


----------



## ToddJB

> The fear I always have with these swaps is that the wood I have is acclimated to Las Vegas (exceptionally dry) and the item may explode if shipped to Florida! So far, no complaints, but I think JayT had to make a minor adjustment to the hand plane I sent him.
> 
> - Hammerthumb


Paul, I was thinking about this, as well. Denver you have the double whammy of super dry and a really high altitude. Mines going to sea level in a much more humid environment. But hopefully that work in my favor to fill in those gappy spots


----------



## Ripthorn

All I was saying is that everyone here makes fantastic stuff and with the swaps, I always worry about my stuff being up to snuff. Not that that is the point, but you know.


----------



## AgentTwitch

Folks, reveal day is on or after March 2nd. Thought I put that out, but must have forgot, LOL.

So, reveal your RECIEVED gift here. After YOUR tool is posted by your swap partner, Feel free to post your photos of your build as a project for the rest of the LJ community to enjoy. Questions?


----------



## CFrye

> Ah Candy, your contribution would ve been appreciated.
> - waho6o9


Thanks, Waho!
Terry, I'm glad to hear the scrub is a user!
Thanks for all your hard work on this swap, Norm!


----------



## terryR

Candy, that laminated scrub plane with thick iron is a monster!
Eats hardwoods like cookies and milk!
...oh, maybe that's ME eating…
LOL


----------



## AgentTwitch

Candy, Terry is right, this swap would have been better with you in it! And all of the others who had other obligations. It has been my pleasure to organize this swap. It just goes to show you that anyone can do it!


----------



## Mosquito

Paul, your Las Vegas acclimated wood would be perfectly fine in MN right now… it's about the same dryness in the winter here, but changes to be quite humid later lol If I push all the tool well boards to one end on my workbench right now, I've got about 1/2" gap at the other end. That used to be about 1/8" this summer


----------



## Hammerthumb

I imagine it does get dry there in the winter Mos. Funny - conversation on the Shops thread with Red and Dan talking about moisture meters. Most moisture meters on the market today will not read below 6%. I doubt if any wood in my shop would get a reading.

When I used to do wood floors here in Las Vegas, most of the manufacturers would give installation seminars and talk about leaving an "expansion gap" around the perimeter of the floor. Any installer in Las Vegas will tell you that is not necessary. We needed to have baseboard that would cover the "contraction space".


----------



## BigRedKnothead

I did it again. I got all excited, packed up my swap items, sent them…...and forgot to include a note. At least I wrote on the outside of the box who it's from.


----------



## Ripthorn

I got my box today, and let me say, it is EPIC! Such awesome workmanship. I love these swaps simply to see other people's talents and ideas. Sending my box this weekend.


----------



## bobasaurus

Gotta finish up the extra tool before shipping, but the main tool is completed.


----------



## shipwright

Main item done, bonus item almost done …... waiting on Woodcraft for an accessory. 
I'll get it shipped on time even if the accessory has to follow.


----------



## AgentTwitch

Paul and Allen, Must feel good to be working on the bonus item after finishing the swap item! I am soooooo close to being finished. Need to do some final tweaking and then maybe send out a bonus item if time permits! Already had to stop and fix a few oopsies.

Glad to see all of the early shipping notices out there! It's refreshing to see!


----------



## Tugboater78

Sure wish i could have participated in this swap. Im sure there are going to be some epic tools produced. In any case the resources listed may help me with some personal projects when weather is more cooperative, at this time it is impossible to do anything that requires glue or finish which basically has everything on hold. This is bad cause the newly minted fiance has a pinterest page of projects she wants done for wedding, oh my.


----------



## CFrye

Congratulations, Justin! When's the big day?


----------



## Tugboater78

No particular day set yet, i asked her thursday evening, but she thinking fall of next year at latest, september 2016. Few things need to be taken care of this year, and gives more time to put back monies since i had to drain my savings while i was off most of 2014. I have a nice, yet expensive, honeymoon in mind for her.


----------



## waho6o9

Best Wishes Justin!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Just read the news, Tug. Sincerest CONGRATS on the upcoming nuptials, Buddy! And sorry at the same time for all the problems in '14. Here's to that being behind you, with nothing but joy ahead.


----------



## Tugboater78

Thanks all, im pretty stoked, been waiting a long time to find someone who is willing to put up with me.


----------



## RPhillips

Crappy weather means long hours at work, so my project is a going to have to be "good enough" as my time to improve it is dwindling away too quickly. I was hoping for a warm up this week so I could get some work in, but with the temps here not breaking freezing, that's not happening. I'm still happy with how my project came out, but I just know that I could have done better with a little more practice.


----------



## AgentTwitch

Tugboater, congratulations! Sounds like you have your hands full.

I was so close to packaging up the tool for the swap…I just can not leave good enough alone….sigh….time to fix another oopsie or start the finish over. I tried buffing out a scratch which kind of melted the finish. I spot treated the area and will scuff it level and take it from there. Oil and wax next time!


----------



## Tugboater78

Rob i can totally understand, was hoping to get a bit done in shop today but my little heater isnt keeping shop warm enough.. jusy came in house and cant feel my fingertips.

Hoping maybe i can join in a swap before too long, the handplane swap was awesome and pushed my skill level a bit. Need more skill building.


----------



## terryR

congrats, Justin!

I am also dealing with shop temps too low, even in AL…couldn't get my shop above 31 degrees last week even with the heat running constantly! But, hopefully that is behind us. Finished my bonus item yesterday since it was easier…back to the main event today.

Starting to get excited over the upcoming tools revealed!


----------



## ToddJB

Main item and one bonus item completely done. Working on a set of additional bonus items which are in the finishing phase. Hope to be boxed up and mailed by Friday. I'm pretty pumped about how everything came together.


----------



## terryR

Also…










...The Book says we need another volunteer for the NEXT swap moderator soon…Maybe ending in June/July?


----------



## Ripthorn

Do we even have a theme for the next swap? If it is something I am interested in, I could probably be the moderator. If I'm not going to participate, however, then I will decline moderating.


----------



## intelligen

Ugh…went out to my cold garage to fire up my saw yesterday (a SawStop) and recut a part but got a solid red light which apparently means "replace cartridge." The brake has never fired so I assume it's a defective cartridge or control panel. Now as I'm writing this I wish I would have thought to try swapping in my dado cartridge and dado blade yesterday. I'll be cutting it closer than I wanted to on the ship date, but I'll finish it up one way or another.


----------



## Hammerthumb

Good! We have a volunteer. It's up to your to propose the theme Rip.


----------



## ShaneA

I wonder about the next swap too. As I look at all the tools I have made as usually I make extras for the swaps, and all the tools I have received. I am not too sure what other swap ideas are out there. I was thinking maybe some sort of tote or storage item to keep all my parts together. I get over run with inserts, blades, ferrules, brass, and aluminum rod etc. I am just thinking out loud. Maybe the size of a tote makes it too prohibitive to ship. But lots of joinery possibilities in it.

And I cannot accept the nomination of swap master. I am a procrastinating, 90%er, who has no technical ability whatsoever.


----------



## Ripthorn

Alright, well, let's hear some suggestions on the next swap. Do we want to go something larger like a hand plane, or smaller like some of the things done in the past? Let's hear some ideas. I'll create a poll after we have some good suggestions rounded up.


----------



## ToddJB

I think totes might be a bit big. I don't see issue with recycling themes. It would give those people who didn't have a chance to get in the first time around to give it a go. This was my first swap because of previous time restraints prior to this, but I know I wanted to participate in all of the prior ones. But I'll leave the suggesting up to Rip.


----------



## Ripthorn

I just went back and looked. I didn't realize that the plane swap was coming up on two years ago. What are thoughts there? I'll look for some other ideas too. Maybe a chisel swap could be fun.


----------



## ToddJB

I like the idea of another plane swap. So many options there that those who have done it before could go a completely different route with what kind they make, and maybe even request to receive.


----------



## JayT

How about a spokeshave swap? Similar to planes, but I don't recall anyone making a spokeshave during that one. Veritas even has spokeshave kits for those that don't feel they can build one from scratch. I'd participate in either one.

Sorry to have missed this one, but with work, shop time has been hard to come by so it was a good thing.


----------



## waho6o9

I''m down for making a level swap.

Yeah buddy


----------



## Hammerthumb

Chisels would be good. We have not done that. Spokeshaves would be good also.


----------



## DLK

A marking and measurement swap.


----------



## Hammerthumb

Level is another good idea.


----------



## AgentTwitch

Plane swap or chisel swap sounds good to me.


----------



## ToddJB

Plane, Chisel, Level, and Spokeshave. Sounds like enough options for a poll to me Rip. Why don't you start a new thread so those not watching this one can vote.


----------



## Ripthorn

I am liking the suggestions thus far. I think it would not be illogical to do planes, chisels, and spokeshaves in a single swap, since a plane is really just a jig for a chisel, and a spokeshave is a derivative of a plane. Would that get too convoluted? I'll set up a poll and a new thread shortly. Is there a poll functionality on the forum? I don't think there is, but just want to double check.


----------



## wormil

I prefer more concise themes where everyone is making the same thing, that's just me. I'm only running about 50% on participation anyway. Sometimes life just gets too busy and I don't get enough shop time; side effect of the kids getting older and participating in extra curricular activities. I still like the idea of a build off instead, like my pencil sharpener idea, I already have multiples of almost everything we've swapped in the past.


----------



## jmartel

My vote would be plane swap. I wasn't able to participate in the last one. Spokeshaves would be included with planes, in my opinion. I could use a router plane, hint hint.

I can't see a chisel swap. There's really only a few ways to make the handles, especially if you don't have a lathe, and most people can't make their own chisel blades, so it would be repurposing vintage ones.


----------



## bobasaurus

I would like another plane swap, I had fun in the last one and would like to build another to keep for myself this time around.


----------



## Mosquito

I might be in for another plane swap, but it'll depend on timing… Going to be a busy spring for me

Also, I tend to agree with Rick on more concise themes, personally.


----------



## AgentTwitch

Repurposing something old to something new is fun, too

Rip, whatever you choose, there will be plenty of participants. Should be fun


----------



## ToddJB

+1 for concision (I totally did not think that was a word, but turns out it twas)


----------



## Ripthorn

Alright everyone, new swap thread and survey are up! Look here. I look forward to seeing you all there!


----------



## sepeck

oh hey, @terryR
I had forgotten this marking gauge by Jack Houweling that uses 2 dowels.


----------



## ToddJB

Man, that is super simple and clever and fast. I should have done that instead.


----------



## waho6o9

Nice one sepeck, thanks!


----------



## RPhillips

I like the idea of a plane/spokeshave swap… had a blast making the last one, so I'm down.


----------



## terryR

> oh hey, @terryR
> I had forgotten this marking gauge by Jack Houweling that uses 2 dowels.
> 
> - sepeck


That's a nice looking gauge…very simple, but I bet it's tight. I had a feeling there should be more of those around…

Here's a truly sick piece of wood…










...guess I can show my hand now…no one knows where it's headed next were, except 3 folks.


----------



## waho6o9

Clean work as usual terryR, tight and sharp details very good.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Without scrolling back. are folks allowed to start posting their items they've received?


----------



## sepeck

> Open them as soon as you get them! Who can resist?
> 
> *Take lots of photos and start posting images and thoughts on or after March 2nd.*
> 
> I would ask that everyone wait for up to 1 week from the ship due date before finding out where packages are in transit. Let me know if you haven t received your item and I will contact your swap partner. Stragglers will be posted on the thread :-D
> 
> Remember, post that your item has shipped
> 
> - AgentTwitch


----------



## BigRedKnothead

^Ahh, thanks. In the other swaps, I think we posted soon as we got them. Hard to keep up.

Oh ya, mine's been shipped….and received.

I'd go for another plane swap. That plane I sent Tug was the only swap item I didn't want to send off. I liked that plane.


----------



## Ripthorn

My items shipped today.


----------



## terryR

Oooh, I like the shape of that plane, Red!
Reminds me of a '40's Mercury!










Wonder if anyone has been a part of ALL our tool swaps?

I missed the marking knife, but have enjoyed all the rest!


----------



## Ripthorn

I missed the first mallet swap and the saw swap, but have been in the others.


----------



## ShaneA

I only missed the saw swap. Not too confident I could make a saw. But been around for all the others.


----------



## midnightww

Sent!!


----------



## sepeck

This was my first. It was worth it. I will say a few things for those considering swaps;

1. Plan for some lead time. You know how you work, so gather information/resources up front if at all possible,
2. If doing it from a 'kit' or ordered parts, then make sure the kit is what you expect from reviews and such up front so you don't miss lines like 'must supply own wood' 
3. if you are doing it from a blog post/plans only/'feeling your way', then plan in time for practice pieces or prototypes. I know I practiced some techniques a few times and still ended up with 4-5 pieces before I finished the one I wanted. I had several technique practices in December, and January/Early February was really frustrating working on it until I finally was getting what I saw in my mind.
4. The part I ordered back in December didn't show until the end of January (with an apology from the merchant) so consider what you would do for a work around/alternative. This case was rare but happened to me and I suspect one other person on this forum. 
5. Use the resources and thread for advice. I got a lot of ideas from the questions and several direct answers which contributed to my success on my build. If there is a remotely applicable previous swap thread, go dig in that one because there are tons of ideas there too. Ultimately it was a link to someone else's work that gave me the idea to solve my design issue.
6. I will admit to some small bit of stress, but for me I used that as a positive to get my best at this time.


----------



## August

Oh I forgot to post
Mine was sent last Friday 
sent!


----------



## Tugboater78

> ^Ahh, thanks. In the other swaps, I think we posted soon as we got them. Hard to keep up.
> 
> Oh ya, mine s been shipped….and received.
> 
> I d go for another plane swap. That plane I sent Tug was the only swap item I didn t want to send off. I liked that plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - BigRedKnothead


I love that plane! Its currently needing a honing, i forgot to add it to my plane pic i put up yesterday


----------



## waho6o9

The second split nut driver is mint. woo hoo

Assembling the saw tonight and if she cuts right, away she goes.

LOL

What a blast


----------



## bobasaurus

Made the handle for my bonus tool today out of some scrap beech. Shaped mostly with spokeshaves, so much fun:



















(accidentally posted this in the hand planes forum earlier, oh well… spokeshaves are kind of like planes, right?)


----------



## terryR

Allen, those are both beautiful 'shaves!

...Done…boxed…waiting for 6" of forecasted snow/sleet to clear.


----------



## bobasaurus

Thanks Terry, I love those spokeshaves (especially the LN).

Finished up the bonus tool today. Here are all the pieces laid out:










Self-replicating hammers:


----------



## ToddJB

Looks great, Allen.


----------



## ToddJB

Taking pics tonight and boxing up. She'll ship tomorrow.


----------



## waho6o9

Awesome plane Mr. Rojo, now take good care of her Justin.

Allen's doing fine work as usual the double splines are a nice touch.

Well my saw's making acceptable cuts so I'll pack her up for her
new home. The second split nut driver works well and is comfortable
to use.

The second picture's Hammer Thumbs' fantastic saw from the last 
swap. Thanks again Paul!


----------



## ToddJB

It's going to be a long weekend waiting for pics!

Waho, what clamping set up is that?


----------



## waho6o9

It's a Festool MFT3 with their quick clamps Todd. Efficient but spendy.


----------



## Hammerthumb

Glad your getting some use out of it Waho!


----------



## waho6o9

Yeah buddy!


----------



## AgentTwitch

Waho, looks like you have a sharp and well set saw! Have you seen the MFTC plan before? probably have a s a Festool tool owner. Considered building one for mobile projects and to mobilize the systainers.


----------



## ToddJB

Slick set up.


----------



## August

Hey all 
I have lots of aluminuim extrusion
And the clamps for festool work perfect with 80/20
And I have lots.
Wondering if some of your guys are welling for some trades?

Edit
I want wood for trade if ever you guys want to trade
Or I could just send you guys some?


----------



## waho6o9

Awesome set up Norm go for it. There's plans on the FOG (Festools Owners Group)

or you can make your own.

If you can't make your own top there's a lot of options available the latest being

a jig you mount on peg board and plunge away. I'd be interested in your build Norm.

You da Man Auggie! I have a full plate Auggie otherwise some 80/20 would
work well.


----------



## bobasaurus

Shipped my package off today, cutting it close. Does this count as a progress pic? lol:


----------



## shipwright

I was away for a day. When I returned my package was on the table and Woodcraft had my last piece in so I got mine shipped today as well. ... A good day.

I'm very happy with the tool(s) I received. I'll post pics when the ban lifts…......


----------



## AgentTwitch

Waho, I bought the plans back in the spring, LOL. I might get around to building it.

Allen, I see a newegg.com box (which is a win) that has a tool for your swap partner in it (another win)! Sounds like great progress to me!

So, there I was (the start of every good military story), it was just me, and the saw handle. I had taken a photo of it for my project page after the swap.










I brought it into my workshop to put it back together. "I should put a coat of wax on this", I said. So I did. "This looks nice," I said. "Maybe I should give it a quick buff," I said….










I have super-glued my fingers together and am missing a few chunks of wood on the bottom fillet, we shall see if I will be able to repair it in time. LOL


----------



## AgentTwitch

There was a method to my madness on the posting of pics after the shipping suspense…but I forgot what it was.

Please do share your pictures. There is nearly a week left before the shipping suspense, who has time to wait?!


----------



## waho6o9

Oh my….....


----------



## bobasaurus

Damn Norm, that is depressing. Such a clean break should mend well enough, though. Did the buffer catch and throw it?


----------



## AgentTwitch

Allen,
Yes the linen/flannel buffing wheel caught it. I was able to get the tripoli wheel to polish up the tote with no issues, avoiding the more intricate curves. I went to white diamond feeling quite comfortable after success with the previous compound and it sent it straight to the floor. Took me 30 minutes to find the bottom half of the tote, LOL


----------



## KelvinGrove

Tools in the box - Check
Note in the box - Check
Packing in the box - Check
Box closed properly - Check
Address on the box - Check

Off to Pak-Mail!


----------



## ToddJB

Norm, you're taking this much better than would. Sorry this happened, especially so late in the game


----------



## AgentTwitch

Todd, I was upset right as it happened, but as Allen pointed out, I should be able to fix it. It just will have some new found character.


----------



## ToddJB




----------



## terryR

Oh crap, Norm! I hope it comes out nice!

Hope you weren't injured, more importantly!!!

For some reason, I was afraid to buff my tote? Just applied wax by hand.

Mailed today…from the middle of nowhere, so may take 2 extra days.


----------



## waho6o9

Mailed today as well.


----------



## AgentTwitch

The only injury was to my pride, Terry! I am still hoping I will find the other TWO saw plates that I purchased (and lost) to help me get over this. 

Excellent, Kelvin, Todd and Waho! Packages are flying out the shops almost as fast as my tote flew to the workshop floor.


----------



## sepeck

and mine is shipped now as well


----------



## terryR

> The only injury was to my pride, Terry! I am still hoping I will find the other TWO saw plates that I purchased (and lost) to help me get over this.
> 
> - AgentTwitch


well, a good man's pride will certainly rebound! 
smashed fingers are not quite as easy to heal.

I've actually bummed up so much stuff in the shop lately, I'm looking forward to a week in the barn to upgrade a few goat stalls! LOL!


----------



## Iguana

Dammit, I just realized February has 28 days!


----------



## RPhillips

^lol me too.


----------



## AgentTwitch

Whew! Didn't make it out in today's post, but the saw and bonus item are packaged and ready to go out by the deadline! Hopefully no one will know the tool is damaged goods 










The repair is hard to see at least.


----------



## ToddJB

Looks good from here, Norm. Nice save


----------



## bobasaurus

Nice work Norm. What did you use for the repair?


----------



## terryR

Whew! Looks great, Norm!


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Looky, LN now offers a marking knife. Interesting design.


----------



## KelvinGrove

That is interesting. How thick is that blade?


----------



## AgentTwitch

I like that style handle for the Auriou rasps that they sell, but I am not sure if I could use it for a knife… I often wondered why they hadn't offered a marking knife before. Perhaps a rebranded Blue Spruce (they sell their mallets with the LN logo afterall).

I hoped they would offer an adjustable knife like Phil Lowe uses:










*EDIT*
I guess the name of the marking knife is an R. Murphy Adjustable Knife. Pretty snazzy looking, if you ask me.










But the question I have is, WHERE IS THE PLOW PLANE? Come on, Tom!


----------



## BigRedKnothead

I hear ya about the darn plow plane Norm. They're killin me! I've got an "in" at LN and they were sure the plow plane and new sharpening guide would be out in February. Dang it

Oh well, they wanna get it right the first time. Better than having "versions" like the wood rivers….where they basically fix their screwups.

Tim- doesn't give spec on the marking knife. Blade looks stout though.


----------



## AgentTwitch

Red,
I stopped by the Warren, Maine show room last month (perk of living in Maine) and inquired about the plane to a sales rep. I was the only one there, trying out a fish tail chisel and some other tools. Next thing I know, Tom brought it down for a demo. I thought that was pretty classy! He spent some time going over the design considerations and thought it would be out this month as well. If you want to know when its really really going to be released, they are taking names/contact information if you would like to be among the first to own it.


----------



## terryR

Wow, a LN plow? Gotta be a $500 tool? looks much simpler than a 45…bet it will be tight as a drum!

Well, a small monkey wrench in the swap from my end…

My wife left this AM for an emergency meeting out of town for the next week! Since my item is being mailed to her work place, I won't be able to receive it for at least another week. 

Sorry, it was un-expected. If it's OK with the group, I hereby give my sender permission to post their project when everyone else does. I'm a grown man…no problems seeing my gift for the first time on LJ's!


----------



## lateralus819

Man I've gotta have that plow plane! ..

I've wanted something to replace my tabel saw for grooves and that looks like it. Looks far nicer than the Veritas.

Maybe that can be the item i get when the wife and I go to the showroom this fall .

She said "Well yeah i would go there and expect you to not buy something"


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Terry, I think they estimated the LN plow around $250-300. I doubt I'll get one right when they come out, but eventually. I plan to get the sharpening guide right away.

You can see both starting two minutes into this vid…
http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/woodworking-in-america-2013/


----------



## JoeMcGlynn

that's somewhat reminiscent of this antique I saw on Jim Bode Tools












> Looky, LN now offers a marking knife. Interesting design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - BigRedKnothead


----------



## terryR

good grief, Red.
Is that what goes on at WIA events?
I need to clean the drool off my monitor…pardon…

Think I got a buzz just seeing so many purty toys, I mean TOOLS!


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Never been to a WIA. Hopefully going to the one in KC this year for a bit.


----------



## AgentTwitch

Just a friendly reminder: *TODAY IS THE SHIPPING SUSPENSE* Please make sure to get your packages out to your courier of choice by today.

For those of you who received your swap items, lets see some pics!


----------



## ToddJB




----------



## ErikF

Packing my stuff right now then to the post office.


----------



## ShaneA

I will get mine out today too. However, it is going a long ways so it may be a while before it land in it's home.


----------



## ToddJB




----------



## KelvinGrove

Hummmm I wonder what this means????


----------



## ToddJB

Doesn't seem too normal to me. Maybe their postal service is just being ironic.


----------



## waho6o9

Thank you sepeck for the fine marking knife and custom made

6 in 1 screwdriver!

Better than store bought and both items won't leave my shop.

Both handles are ergonomically perfect and have a fine wax finish.

Great work sepeck and thanks again!


----------



## bobasaurus

That's a fine-looking marking knife and screwdriver. I like the blade shape on the knife, good for deep dovetail access.


----------



## ToddJB

Nice work, Steven!


----------



## sepeck

YAY! Glad you like it. I was really struggling on the shape of the knife handle for a while. I got some inspiration from one of ShaneA's projects

One of the early attempts was to wavy so I was glad to find a better way.

Got better at some things, learned a few areas I still need to work on. All in all a great time. I got a package from BigRed last week but haven't taken pictures. Will do so when I get home.


----------



## ToddJB

Man, I see from your pic that you bought your blade. I didn't even think to look for that type of blade to buy. I spent many frustrating hours trying to figure out how to sharpen the one I made. Shoulda thought to just google it.


----------



## sepeck

ToddJB - I mentioned it early on as a possible source but it got lost in the huge thread. I am just not set up to reshape and sharpen metal right now and didn't want to mess with it. That said, CZech Edge had some sort of supplier issue so I ordered in December but didn't get it until almost Feb (with an apology note). I was looking around at alternative blades just in case though.

I did find some various instructive tutorials I saved for later cause it looks like fun still.


----------



## ToddJB

Looks like their site is struggling. Can't view their "Store" tab. But the products look to be beautiful. Bummed I missed your comment early.


----------



## midnightww

> Hummmm I wonder what this means????
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - KelvinGrove


Thanks Tim, just opened the package and am very excited with the suite of tools you created. I plan on posting some pics tomorrow. Now if it would only get above 20 degrees I could actually get in the garage and use them.


----------



## Ripthorn

Paul, Hammerthumb, made me a great suite of dovetail marking tools. This included a fabulous pair of left and right bevel marking knives, a beautiful brass and bubinga 1:8 layout gauge, a bubinga saw guide with rare earth magnets in it, and a beautiful bubinga-handled fishtail chisel. Yes, I hit the jackpot! Very awesome, and I look forward to using them on some half blind dovetails for a pair of drawers I am making.


----------



## KelvinGrove

Cool beans Mid. I was afraid they had delivered it to who knows where!


----------



## bobasaurus

Brian, is that a dovetail-angled square/marker? Really nice tools overall, the fishtail chisel looks very impressive.


----------



## Ripthorn

Allen, it is. It is a 1 in 8 angle, beautifully made, to boot!


----------



## ToddJB

Super cool, Paul. I love the fishtail chisel. The double brass ferrel sets it off. I hope you blog it.


----------



## waho6o9

Nice jackpot Ripthorn!

Now you can make a box for your new heirloom pieces.

Great work Hammerthumb!


----------



## ErikF

I just got home and opened up my swap item from Paul (shipwright), this may be the nicest thing I own. Craftsmanship at it's best, Paul. I will cherish this box and lineup board for many years, I'll be emailing you soon. Thanks for hosting, Norm!


----------



## waho6o9

That's incredible ErikF congratulations.

Fine work Mr. Paul!


----------



## ShaneA

Whoa, great work fellas.


----------



## ToddJB

Crap, Paul. That is beautiful. Even the dog cannot overt his eyes from its glory.


----------



## Slyy

Wow Shipwright congrats Erik! Hammerrthumb that is a great grab bag of tools you've made.


----------



## bobasaurus

Damn that is a nice box and alignment board.


----------



## Hammerthumb

Wow Erik! Paul outdone himself on that one!

Sorry guys, but I didn't blog the chisel. Didn't take many pics either. Not much to it. Shaped the tool steel with a tang style. Heat treated the steel and then sharpened and polished it. The hard part was the metal ferrules. They were made from plumbing parts. The tang ferrule was hex shaped so that took a lot of work to make it round. Then I just turned the handle to fit the ferrules.

Great show so far. Hope to see more tonight.i


----------



## KelvinGrove

I can't wait till mine gets here!


----------



## AgentTwitch

Excellent work by all of the LJs! This has been an excellent swap with a lot of great tools to share.

Erik, hosting the swap has been my pleasure and I hope that after Ripthorn, someone else may give it a try. Its fun!

I was joking with Paul (aka Shipwright) that he was going to get a unique award for the item he crafted for Erik as it was a loose interpretation of a dovetail tool. That was *before* he decided to add a dovetail alignment board to sweeten the swap and make it legit. But here goes anyway, I present to Paul the "I do what I want" award for a tool swap.










Dovetail tools you say? Dont care, I'm making a box.

JK Paul, excellent work!


----------



## AgentTwitch

I received my excellent tool + bonus items(!!!) from Todd this afternoon. He really outdid himself.










I am completely taken aback by the quality of the craftsmanship and the thought behind his letter. Aside from a great marking gauge (the build item), there were dovetail guides, and a marking knife.










I told Todd that I feel embarrassed to post his excellent build item because I didnt want anyone thinking that I hand selected his item for myself out of greed! From a moderators standpoint, the really exciting thing about these builds is how much the items change from the teaser/progress pics to the big reveal and the complete surprise of the bonus items.










The pictures do not do these tools justice. The claro walnut has beautiful figure and the the fit and finish is top notch!










I tried out all of the tools in my sub-zero barn workshop. The marking gauge made an accurate and sharp line on a piece of cherry and gave a refreshing slice sound as the blade had its way with the fibers. I marking out some 1:6 dovetail pins using the knife with similar results. Then I tried the magnetic dovetail guide with my scrap-made dovetail saw and it registered in the knife line and got me started. I will cherish these tools

Great stuff Todd, cant wait to see your plane/spokeshave during the next build.


----------



## Hammerthumb

Awesome Items, Todd!


----------



## ShaneA

The marking gauge it especially nice. Well done.


----------



## waho6o9

Fantastic work Todd, glad you stuck it out and worked through

the problem areas.

Congratulations Norm.


----------



## bobasaurus

Wow, the marking gauge is amazing. Is that a brass inlay on the top?


----------



## lateralus819

Damn that marking gauge is gorgeous. Lucky guy. Enjoy it.


----------



## sepeck

BigRedKnothead made a Dave Barron Dovetail kit. Dovetail alignment board, two guides at 10 and 12 degrees, a marking knife and brass mallet. Haven't had time to play with it due to being on call for work but plan to try some this week on a small box for my daughter (plus my daughter remembered one of her friends didn't yet have a wand so there I was Sunday making another wand because, "Daddy, they only take an hour!").

The craftsmanship on this is awesome and I look forward to using it.










sneaking this in here


----------



## ToddJB

Thanks guys. I did my best-est.

Allen, yep, that inlay is for the screw:










Also, project posted (my first, too - I'm a real LJ now):


----------



## ToddJB

Dang, Red. Pimping.


----------



## waho6o9

Great work Red!

Sepeck have fun making a box for your daughter and enjoy
your fine dovetail kit. Mighty nice.


----------



## lateralus819

How difficult was that inlay Todd? Looks really clean.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Got mine today too. A nice marking gauge and brass mallet from Bobasaurus….









The origami packing was unique. 









Thanks Allen.


----------



## bobasaurus

Hey Red, glad you got the package. You have that gauge body backwards on there, the brand is towards the back. It would probably work that way too, though  .


----------



## BigRedKnothead

^Doh, I had it on right, then messed it up for the pic, thanks again Allen.



> Looks like their site is struggling. Can t view their "Store" tab. But the products look to be beautiful. Bummed I missed your comment early.
> 
> - ToddJB


Ya, I don't know what the deal is with Czech edge. I gave rave reviews after turning tools from several of their kits, only to have a bunch of people pm me because their online store is broke. I guess they better figure it out, they're supposed to be at Handworks in two months.


----------



## Hammerthumb

You guys are showing some great craftsmanship here. Excellent showing! Nicely done Red and Allen.


----------



## ToddJB

Allen, beautiful job. It is easy to set accurately with the wedge?

Lat, it's all smoke and mirrors, it's not super clean if you really get up on it. I just posted my process over on the project page cause someone else was asking about it.


----------



## bobasaurus

I found it pretty easy to use with the wedge, surprisingly. Just a light tap or two and it stays put, and you can micro-adjust the beam with the hammer. The finish did make it a little slick, though… might need some sandpaper roughing to hold better.

Red, I didn't know you already made such fine brass hammers… I should have chosen a different extra tool. Oh well, hopefully it can find some use in your shop.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

^Actually Allen, I just have those short fatty's (Barron style). I don't have a little tapper like you sent. One can never have too many hammers or mallets anyway.


----------



## Slyy

Wow all! I was super excited waiting to see how all the swap items turned out and can't say it's anything but spectacular! Wish I coulda done more then spectate for this one but do hope to work some smoke and mirrors myself on the next tool swap.


----------



## wormil

Amazing work on these swap items. You guys need a unique swap tag for your project page.


----------



## terryR

Wow!
Great stuff, guys! 

Might scare off newbys from the next swap with the fit and finish I've seen so far…


----------



## KelvinGrove

> Wow!
> Great stuff, guys!
> 
> Might scare off newbys from the next swap with the fit and finish I ve seen so far…
> 
> - terryR


Don't get too carried away Terry, once the stuff I built posts up the newbies might be saying.."I can do better than that!"


----------



## GMatheson

Really impressive work guys. I'm sorry I missed out on this one.


----------



## waho6o9

I hear ya Kelvin at least we built up some skills for the next one.


----------



## Ripthorn

For those sorry to have missed this swap, there is a hand plane and spokeshave swap going on, with sign ups happening Right Now! Find it here.


----------



## terryR

Just kidding, Tim! 

Yes, we need a tag to add to all these projects.

?DTswap2015?


----------



## shipwright

Here are the beautiful tools that Brian (Ripthorn) sent me. The details are amazing. A lot of time went into the fine little knobs and the finish is so smooth I cant stop fondling them. I've been packing my DT tools back and forth between B.C. and Az. until now but this year they will go home to stay and these will become my Az. users.

Thanks Brian.

Here are the new additions…...










..... and here they are being welcomed into the Az. family.


----------



## Ripthorn

Paul, I'm glad you liked them. The knobs were probably the single most time consuming operation in the whole project! Then again, I am picky about things like knobs. They should be clean, decorative, and functional. Plus, it gives me an excuse to use my little metal lathe.


----------



## Iguana

Paul, totally OT, but love that old Ford V8 logo on your chop!


----------



## sepeck

> Just kidding, Tim!
> 
> Yes, we need a tag to add to all these projects.
> 
> ?DTswap2015?
> 
> - terryR


I just tagged my project *DTswap2015*


----------



## shipwright

Thanks Mark but it actually stands for *8 D*egree *V*ertical wedge.
This will explain it.


----------



## sepeck

> ^Doh, I had it on right, then messed it up for the pic, thanks again Allen.
> 
> Looks like their site is struggling. Can t view their "Store" tab. But the products look to be beautiful. Bummed I missed your comment early.
> 
> - ToddJB
> 
> Ya, I don t know what the deal is with Czech edge. I gave rave reviews after turning tools from several of their kits, only to have a bunch of people pm me because their online store is broke. I guess they better figure it out, they re supposed to be at Handworks in two months.
> 
> - BigRedKnothead


I figured I would just ask him so I sent him an email last night. He's still in business, and he says, "The site is in the process of a re-do and it's taking forever to get done. Yes, we're still selling kits and everything else. Let me know what you're interested in and I can email you an online invoice."

I am sure many of you are aware of resource constraints and being a small business. I was thinking of picking up one of his bird cage awl kits myself.

-Steven


----------



## BigRedKnothead

^Ya, the timing was just kinda funny. I emailed him about it but didn't get a response.

I made both the bird cage awl and burnisher. His stuff is top notch.


----------



## ToddJB

> Just kidding, Tim!
> 
> Yes, we need a tag to add to all these projects.
> 
> ?DTswap2015?
> 
> Me too
> 
> - terryR
> 
> I just tagged my project *DTswap2015*
> 
> - sepeck


----------



## midnightww

Thank you Tim (kelvingrove) for the great set of tools. I really like the bigger handles on the marking knives. Hopefully I won't waste 30 minutes of precious shop time digging through shavings to find a knife now. I will foreshadow a bit by naming the mallet "Toe Crusher"... This must weigh at least 3 pounds ( I like the Georgia state quarter detail). The square is very cool and is the perfect size for checking edges for square. A lot of time went into putting these together.


----------



## bobasaurus

Paul, that's a nice gauge and knife. And made from padauk like mine, I think  .

Midnight, your mallet looks nice and hefty and I like the stubby square. Interesting ferrules on the knives, too.


----------



## intelligen

Wow, even everybody's photos look professional; I guess it can't hurt that all the subjects are so photogenic. I received a really nice brass dovetail marker from August last week and mailed my item out yesterday. I'll try to remember to post a photo tonight.


----------



## KelvinGrove

Thanks Mid, and as for the handles the wife let me use her new lathe to turn them. I hope you you enjoy them.

By the way…the one thing I did not do was take pictures so I don't have one to post in completed projects. If I PM you my e-mail, would you send me that pic?


----------



## Ripthorn

Bobasaurus, the marking gauge is nloodwood and cherry and the marking knife is Chechen.


----------



## ToddJB

Stunning job, Rip. I feel ya on the knobs taking forever, but those came out great. Worth the effort.

Sweet set up, Tim. Are the coin just decorative or did you make a dead blow mallet?


----------



## KelvinGrove

It's a dead blow. I used 3/4 steel pins cut to length. A15/16ths fortsner bit makes a really tight fit for a quarter to dress it up.


----------



## ToddJB

Nice!


----------



## KelvinGrove

By the way Todd, one of the things I found out is the order you drill the holes in matters. First the the pilot hole all the way through, then the counter sink, THEN the 3/4 for the pin. Otherwise it is hard to get the holes to line up.

And my wife calls these "one dollar mallets" because they have two quarters on each side. I wanted to use 2015 quarters but the Mint didn't release them until the 24th so not enough time to get them in.


----------



## midnightww

> Thanks Mid, and as for the handles the wife let me use her new lathe to turn them. I hope you you enjoy them.
> 
> By the way…the one thing I did not do was take pictures so I don t have one to post in completed projects. If I PM you my e-mail, would you send me that pic?
> 
> - KelvinGrove


Of course, I'll take a few more shots as well. The lighting in our house is terrible.


----------



## AgentTwitch

Wow! More great builds from some great woodworkers'! Keep the reveal pics coming!!!

PLEASE use the keyword/tag *DTSWAP2015* for your project. Will make it easier to find them all once you get your projects posted.


----------



## bobasaurus

I received my swap item today from my good buddy waho6o9. When I came home, this huge monolith of a box was waiting for me:










Inside was an amazing dovetail/back saw and split nut driver! This thing is large, heavy, well built, and nice-looking to boot… it should be great for serious dovetail work:










The stubby split nut driver is great too, it fits perfectly. I braved my 30 deg F garage to make a few test cuts in hard maple:










Works like a charm, cutting a straight kerf without trouble. Made a few random test cuts in some hard maple scrap, and they're all straight and clean:










So thanks a lot, Waho, you made my day (I was thinking about it all day at work). I'm impressed you were able to make such a nice saw by hand, I've never tried making one myself due to the difficulty. I can't wait to try it on some real dovetails. I think it would work great for large workbench apron/tail dovetails ("condor" tails, I think they're called).


----------



## bobasaurus

And I posted my swap item project:

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/134186

Here is a summary picture for the lazy like me  









And here is the full album with pictures and build log:


http://imgur.com/5XbJV


----------



## waho6o9

You're welcome Allen I'm glad your day was made a little better

because of it. May you have many years of good sawing experiences

with her.


----------



## ShaneA

Great job fellas. The concept of making a saw seems a bit intimidating to me.


----------



## ToddJB

Mine showed up tonight as well!










Are you kidding me?



















Or fantastic moderator is an even better saw maker. This is light years nicer than any saw in my till. And it fills the gap between my 8" saw and my 12". Norm, you did a stunning job. And the fix! Had I not seen the broken handle pic I would have never seen this fix and even knowing it is there it took me awhile to find it. Awesome repair. I may neglected some of my child watching duties tonight to fondle my new toy. She cuts straight and clean, she fits my hand perfectly, and she is a looker. You really knocked it out of the park, Mr. Twitch.

He also included a very nice marking knife. Look at the detail on the end. Excellent turning skills.

I am blessed and honored to provide these tools a new home.

Thank you, Norm.


----------



## AgentTwitch

So glad you like them, Todd. This was a fun swap to participate in. Looking forward to the plane / spokeshave swap next!


----------



## Tugboater78

Regretting more amd more not being able to participate, but i would never have been able to meet the level of skills shown thus far. I dont have enough confidence in myself perhaps but yeah.


----------



## waho6o9

Great work Norm she's a stunner alright and a marking to boot, very nice.

Enjoy your new tools Todd and congrats.


----------



## Slyy

Awesome both Todd and Twitch! Great looking saw.


----------



## KelvinGrove

Check this out.

Mine came today as well. Love it! I would never thought of purple heart and oak but it looks great. The wife said, "almost makes you want to run out in the shop and hit something"!

My cheezy little camera phone does NOT do the colors justice.

Thanks Mudflap4869!


----------



## waho6o9

Nice mallet


----------



## Hammerthumb

Nice saw Todd!

Great lookin' whacker you got Tim!


----------



## bobasaurus

That saw is amazing, nice job Norm. The shape of the handle is impressive.

Mudflap, that mallet looks like a great user. Love the purple heart handle.


----------



## ToddJB

Sweet job, Mud!

Tim, did you bludgeon the polar bear in the background to death with that bad boy?


----------



## KelvinGrove

Nope…strangled it with my "bear" hands! (I'm tough like that)


----------



## Hammerthumb

Received a package today. Thought I recognized the shipper address. Here is a dovetail saw made by TerryR.










He included a cool little mallet. I am now a collector of TerryR saws. I am lucky enough to have drawn Terry in two swaps in a row.










Believe me, I'm not complaining!

Saw swap saw is on the bottom with rosewood handle at about 14 ppi crosscut. Dovetail swap saw is on the top, with Cocobola handle and 20ppi rip.










He also included a small brass mallet which I believe August had something to do with. Red had sent me one already so I need to thank Red and August also.
Now I can get work done in half the time!
So I guess a TerryR tenon saw would be the next saw I need.
Terry would never forgive me if I did not give credit to EricF for the steel on both saws. Too bad the next swap is hand planes. I would like another TerryR saw! 
By the way, his work is impeccable! I Trully appreciate the craftsmanship and effort that went into these saws.


----------



## waho6o9

Wowser most excellent premium saws terryR

Congrats Paul you deserve the best of the best!


----------



## Tugboater78

I need to get round to making a handle for my lil mallet head, makeshift drill press lathe i reckon.


----------



## waho6o9

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/63579

Or you can do the DKV drill lathe method


----------



## terryR

Sweet, Paul! I was worried you were full of saws! I think I have your address memorized! 

Sorry about the mallet duplicate. I can trade you for a turned marking gauge if you want?

I enjoyed making totes way too much! Gotta learn to shape the steel…


----------



## AgentTwitch

Terry and Paul, I am sorry about that! I only had two individuals tell me who their previous swap partners were. I should have known better from the last swap, but I didnt put the two together. Nice looking set of saws! Paul, I will trade you admiration and respect for one of those fancy whackers!


----------



## Tugboater78

> http://lumberjocks.com/topics/63579
> 
> Or you can do the DKV drill lathe method
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - waho6o9


Ive thought about doing something like that, i think Izzy Swan did something similar too. Thing is i dont currently have a drill with enough torque to do something like that. Well not a corded drill anyway.


----------



## terryR

> Terry and Paul, I am sorry about that! I only had two individuals tell me who their previous swap partners were. I should have known better from the last swap, but I didnt put the two together. Nice looking set of saws! Paul, I will trade you admiration and respect for one of those fancy whackers!
> 
> - AgentTwitch


Not a problem with me, Norm, as long as Paul doesn't care. It's just one of the funny quirks that come out in these swaps! 

Although, I wish Paul would scratch up that first saw a little. LOL.


----------



## Hammerthumb

> Terry and Paul, I am sorry about that! I only had two individuals tell me who their previous swap partners were. I should have known better from the last swap, but I didnt put the two together. Nice looking set of saws! Paul, I will trade you admiration and respect for one of those fancy whackers!
> 
> - AgentTwitch


Nothing to be sorry about Norm. I think this has happened before. I'm glad I got Terry in the draw. I might need to send him another saw that needs a new handle. And I'm serious about the tenon saw Terry.

PM me your address, and Ill send you one of these mallets. I was going give it to my nephew to get him started, but now I think that I should start him our with a wood mallet that I'll have him make for himself. He'll appreciate it more.


----------



## ToddJB

Good gracious, Terry. You work is so beautiful. Every detail is so intentional.


----------



## Hammerthumb

You're right about that Todd. I sat for a while just examining the handle and looking at all of the details. It's just beautiful. Both saws!

Terry, that saw has been the most used saw in my shop since I got it! I'm very careful with it though. Can I send you an old Diston 4? It needs a new handle.


----------



## RPhillips

Finally made it to the UPS store today. Sorry to be late, but my job and mother nature has sucked the life out of me over the past several weeks. Can we get some weather above freezing please….

Shane, sorry again for getting shipped out late.


----------



## terryR

> Terry, that saw has been the most used saw in my shop since I got it! I m very careful with it though. Can I send you an old Diston 4? It needs a new handle.
> 
> - Hammerthumb


Sure, Paul. I have beech, walnut, and apple, plus exotics. And love to shape totes! PM coming your way…


----------



## August

Recive my item today.

Thanks for letting me participate on this event.


----------



## ToddJB

Pics or it didn't have Auggie. Come on!


----------



## Slyy

Wow Terry, we are turning out some stunning totes! Some pretty exciting tools made in this swap, excited about workin on the next one.


----------



## Tugboater78

Wish i had half you guys skill but i shall be trying to make a toke for my cheapo panel saw, cant say i have no skill if ive never tried can i? i assume 4/4 is minimum thickness to start?


----------



## AgentTwitch

Justin,

You can make a saw tote. Any hardwood that is at least 3/4" will work great. I made a saw tote from 5/4 stock that is pretty comfortable for my larger hands. But less than 3/4" would feel awkward.


----------



## Tugboater78

Aye i have some 4/4 5/4 cherry ill have to inspect and see. Its on the ever expanding list.


----------



## Buckethead

I'm very tempted to post a comment of nothing but cursewords. How else might one express the magnitude of dumbfoundedness? This was a swap for the ages, and I'm still struggling to figure out whether Todd got over on Norm, or the other way around. Out of all the excellent builds done in this thread, and there are many, these two have left me speechless. (No small feat. I've been known to prattle on)

I'm trying my hand at making a plane or two, and if I feel worthy after I'm done, I'll join the next swap. I'd be honored to receive any of the fine tools I've seen built here.

They are as sexy as what the high end manufacturers are putting out. Maybe more so.

Well done, everyone!


----------



## AgentTwitch

Sawstop is in the mail, Buckethead. You made me blush.


----------



## ToddJB

Me too, thanks, Bucket.


----------



## AgentTwitch

How are we looking on the swapped items? Anyone missing thiers?


----------



## CFrye

Norm, Mudflap recieved a PM stating his item has been shipped from Canada.


----------



## Iguana

I am the sender. Tracking shows ETA to be Tuesday.

I also received a PM saying my item was on its way.


----------



## ShaneA

I sent Mark's early last week (the 2nd or 3rd?). If memory serves me correctly, the USPS was estimating the 10th for delivery. I also go a PM from my sender estimating the 10th for arrival as well.

Let me know if you don't see it tomorrow Mark, I think I still have the receipt and may be able to track it off that.


----------



## terryR

Hoping to receive mine today IF my wife goes to her office? She works out of several buildings, and is in the middle of important stuff. 

My apologies to ErikF…need a UPS address badly!!!


----------



## KelvinGrove

> How are we looking on the swapped items? Anyone missing thiers?
> 
> - AgentTwitch


Not only did I receive mine…but it had its first assignment this weekend. I am building a small cabinet and using 1/4 inch pins for extra strength. Just the thing for sending them home.

Thanks again Mudflap!


----------



## ShaneA

Got my swap item today. I am not worthy of such a fine tool. LJ RPhillips sent a dove tail saw. It has a brass back and Padauk handle. Really, really nice. Sorry for the poor picture. Was a quickie snapped by the Kindle.









Amazing tool, thanks


----------



## waho6o9

She'll do fine by you ShaneA nice score.

Great work RPhillips!


----------



## bobasaurus

That is a nice saw, congratulations.


----------



## ToddJB

Yep, definitely need to see some better pics of that bad boy. Awesome job, RP.


----------



## AgentTwitch

Wow! Great looking saw!


----------



## waho6o9

Great mallet mudflap! I must of been looking at that

tiger oak grain for a long time Kelvin as I never saw that

mushroomed 1/4 dowel. LOL


----------



## terryR

I finally received my gift items from wife's workplace…Thanks Erik!!!

A sweet 13" DT saw filed with tiny teeth, a heavy copper back, and a gorgeous tote from claro? walnut! PLUS a brass marking gauge with micro-adjust! Awesome, I've never tried one of those, but love it already!

Gotta get to the shop for photos…


----------



## AgentTwitch

wowza! Can't wait to see the pics, Terry. You will have to provide a review of the microadjustable marking gauge, there are several LJs interested in Erik's new products.

Great looking mallet, mudflap! Looks like you can really lay the smack down with that persuader!


----------



## CFrye

Posting for Mudflap…Mark Kornell's package arrived yesterday accompanied by an area wide electrical outage. Were these two events connected? Hmmm. 
Hefty mallet of jatoba with beech accents and two marking knives of curly maple and teak(?). 
Quick pic. 









We are both in awe of these beautiful tools. The tung oil and wax finish on the mallet is so smooth to the touch and the copper ferrules on the knives are great. 
Thanks Mark!


----------



## sepeck

The diversity in marking knife handle shapes is kind of fun.


----------



## AgentTwitch

Way cool! Way to go, Mark! I dig the handles!


----------



## wormil

Interesting how the ferrules are necked. Did you do that manually Mark, if so, how? Or are they fittings that came that way?



> The diversity in marking knife handle shapes is kind of fun.
> - sepeck


That's what I enjoyed about the marking knife swap.


----------



## sepeck

Those look like copper pipe reducer. Maybe along the lines of 1/2x3/8 , maybe smaller? Shortened up with a saw or tubing cutter?

(Turned out as an apprentice plumber for a few years before life happened and I changed course)


----------



## terryR

Got a chance to try out Erik's micro-adjust gauge…Love It! Feels solid, and marks true again and again!

Huh, you never seen a 13" DT saw? 










Gorgeous shape and wood…sorry to scratch this one, but no wall hangers allowed in my shop…










cuts nice and straight with very little tearout, I forgot to measure ppi. The copper is a bit heavier than I'm used to, and I blew past my stop lines a couple of times on the first test drive. But I'm honored to have such a nice saw in my shop, and promise a good home for life!

Thanks, Erik.
And Thanks, again, to Norm for all the work.


----------



## ErikF

Yeah buddy! Glad it made it there safe, I'm honored to have you scratching it to all hell, that means it's doing what it was built to do. I think it is 15 or 16 tpi…I told you it was a bastard blade. 13" long, fine pitch, and a heavy plate/back combo. Enjoy!


----------



## shipwright

The above photos illustrate why I declined to make tools for Erik and substituted a box for him to fill with these beauties.
You are just a plain intimidating toolmaker Erik. Very nice pieces.


----------



## ToddJB

So. F'n. Awesome. Stunning work, Erik. You are a very talented tool maker.


----------



## waho6o9

Excellent work ErikF now terryR can get some Popeye arms

while cutting some cool dovetails.


----------



## Hammerthumb

Nice saw Terry. Awesome job Erik! I wouldn't mind trying out one of those marking gauges. This swap has trully produced some tools for the ages.

Understand the intimidation Paul. Although your work speaks for itself too!


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## Iguana

Rick,.sepeck: those are indeed 1/2×3/8 reducer fittings. Shortened with a hacksaw. The blades are jigsaw blades with the teeth ground off, a bit over 1/4" wide, so I wanted the visual of an intermediate step between the comfortable diameter to grip of about 5/8" and the skinny blade, hence the shortened reducer.


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## Iguana

Received my package in the mail today. Was in a Lee Valley box - fooled me because I'm also expecting a package from LV.

Opened it, but didn't have time to take pics. All I can say is that Shane has been a very busy boy. And it's a good thing I like walnut.


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## AgentTwitch

Great looking saw and marking gauge, Erik!

Terry, can you cut to your baseline in 2 strokes with that 13inch plate?

I want to thank everyone for the hard work and care put into each of these tools! This swap moderation has been my pleasure and can't wait to participate in the plane makers swap!

You are all rock stars!


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## Iguana

Got my project posted, here. I made a bunch of marking knives for the swap, extras to give to buddies. Mudflap got the curly maple and the teak knives. Haven't finished them all but as I've only got 2 left, need to get on it.










Also made two mallets, one for Mudflap and one for me. Broke my favorite mallet a couple of months ago, good excuse to replace it.


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## Iguana

Took pics of the items Shane sent me. Not sure how he fit them all into the box, as I couldn't figure out how to put them all back in once they were out.



















Two bashers (guess I needn't have bothered making my own), two sharps, a square and a not-so-square plus something with moving parts, all from walnut. The handle of the awl has some particularly attractive curl in it.

Thank you, Shane.

I know the next swap is planes/spokeshaves. But maybe the one after that should be tool cabinets as I now need a larger one.


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## bobasaurus

Wow Terry/Erik, that saw and gauge are remarkable. I like the copper spine, that's a nice contrast with the walnut.

Mark, your marking knives and mallets look very fine. Are the ferrules made from reduction fittings?


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## Iguana

Allen, yes - 1/2×3/8 reducer fittings, shortened a bit.


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## waho6o9

A persuader and one for delicate work great craftsmanship Shane!

Extras to go as well, I gotta try me some procrastinating.

Have fun making a new tool box Mark and congrats on your box 
of tools!


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