# "Methods to My Madness: Designing and Carving a Cane"



## mpounders (Jun 22, 2010)

*Choosing the Wood*

I thought I would start series on how I make my canes, since I have been working on quite a few here lately. I wanted start with the design process, since I usually spend a week or so on that part, and then go into some of the actually carving and the tools and methods I use. It's not exactly a tutorial with plans and such, but you should be able to construct a cane of your own with a little bit of work.

So, I usually start my design with the shaft of the cane. Since canes are used for many reasons, it is important to consider the person who will be using it and how they will use it. For an active hiker, a staff would be more appropriate, perhaps with a wrapped handle or hidden items that could be used in an emergency? Or dual ski-style trekking poles! A person that just needs a little extra support to steady them or for walking around town could use a much thinner, a more slender cane. These canes are very light and easy to carry, but they usually have a little flex when I bear down on them and would not be appropriate for a larger person who needs a cane as a medical necessity. If the intended customer is larger and needs the cane for assistance in getting up and really will be using it for a lot of support, then I need to make sure the cane is very sturdy and strong.

I usually size the shafts to range from 1"-1 1/2" in diameter at the top and then taper to 1/2" to 1" in diameter at the bottom. I have used 36" dowels, spindles that I have turned myself, stair spindles, bamboo, and a variety of salvaged and harvested trees and limbs. The choice depends on the effect I am trying to achieve or what the customer is wanting. I do some canes with the bark on. The bark can be very interesting with a lot of subtle colors and textures, but you should select sticks with thin bark that seems tightly attached and it is recommended that you harvest them in the winter when the sap is down. You do run a risk of the bark coming off, especially if sent to an entirely different climate. It also limits you in the types of carving that you can do and where you can do them. Usually, with a bark-on shaft, I will limit my carving to the handle area.










I love the bark and the shapes of Bradford Pear and thought it might work for what this customer wanted. But I decided to use a small cut-off to create a sample of the type of carving I would have to do to keep the bark and put a finish on it, so the custome could see exactly what I had in mind. It was not what she had wanted at all!










So I sent a picture of a piece of Crape Myrtle with the bark off. This is a readily available wood for me and the little limbs and bumps add a lot of interest to a cane, whether elaborately carved or not. This was more what she had in mind and it would allow me to do the full-length carvings on it, without the concerns of the bark being loosened. Next up, I'll talk about handles.


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## hairy (Sep 23, 2008)

mpounders said:


> *Choosing the Wood*
> 
> I thought I would start series on how I make my canes, since I have been working on quite a few here lately. I wanted start with the design process, since I usually spend a week or so on that part, and then go into some of the actually carving and the tools and methods I use. It's not exactly a tutorial with plans and such, but you should be able to construct a cane of your own with a little bit of work.
> 
> ...


Thanks for doing this. Is there a rule of thumb on how long to let a stick dry?


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## MsDebbieP (Jan 4, 2007)

mpounders said:


> *Choosing the Wood*
> 
> I thought I would start series on how I make my canes, since I have been working on quite a few here lately. I wanted start with the design process, since I usually spend a week or so on that part, and then go into some of the actually carving and the tools and methods I use. It's not exactly a tutorial with plans and such, but you should be able to construct a cane of your own with a little bit of work.
> 
> ...


how wonderful!! this is great.

I can see that the designing is the hardest part - especially when dealing with a client who already has a "vision" of the end result.


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## mpounders (Jun 22, 2010)

mpounders said:


> *Choosing the Wood*
> 
> I thought I would start series on how I make my canes, since I have been working on quite a few here lately. I wanted start with the design process, since I usually spend a week or so on that part, and then go into some of the actually carving and the tools and methods I use. It's not exactly a tutorial with plans and such, but you should be able to construct a cane of your own with a little bit of work.
> 
> ...


I was always told to allow a year for each inch of thickness and I coat the ends with latex paint and leave the bark on. But…..... I don't always wait a year and some woods carve better (easier) when they are green. I did a hickory cane that would have made me give up carving if I had waited until it was completely dry. I usually try and let my sticks dry at least 3 months and if they still seem pretty damp, I brush on a product called Pentacryl to prevent checking. I also wrap the carving in a plastic bag in between carving. You have to watch doing that, as mold can develop. I removed the bark on a large piece of crape myrtle and it literally split down the middle in a matter of days! Small checks can be filled with CA glue and sawdust or you can even use mixtures of stone and epoxy for some beautiful effects.

I enjoy the challenge of creating something that satisfies me artistically AND pleases the customer! It adds that little extra degree of difficulty that keeps things interesting! But it requires some patience, some persistence, and extra efforts in communication and listening!

I have a large quantity of sticks and although I can usually tell when they are ready to carve, it doesn't hurt to use a marker to write the date down on the end you just painted.


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## bnoles (Aug 25, 2007)

mpounders said:


> *Choosing the Wood*
> 
> I thought I would start series on how I make my canes, since I have been working on quite a few here lately. I wanted start with the design process, since I usually spend a week or so on that part, and then go into some of the actually carving and the tools and methods I use. It's not exactly a tutorial with plans and such, but you should be able to construct a cane of your own with a little bit of work.
> 
> ...


Thank you so much for this wonderful blog. I have long wanted to try making a cane, but never knew where to even start or find a proper stick. I will follow your blog closely in hopes to learh how this process works.


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## TJ65 (Jan 19, 2010)

mpounders said:


> *Choosing the Wood*
> 
> I thought I would start series on how I make my canes, since I have been working on quite a few here lately. I wanted start with the design process, since I usually spend a week or so on that part, and then go into some of the actually carving and the tools and methods I use. It's not exactly a tutorial with plans and such, but you should be able to construct a cane of your own with a little bit of work.
> 
> ...


This will certainly be interesting to watch and learn from. 
Looking forward to it. 
I might need one myself in a few years , maybe I should make one in anticipation!!


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## JudyH (Oct 31, 2010)

mpounders said:


> *Choosing the Wood*
> 
> I thought I would start series on how I make my canes, since I have been working on quite a few here lately. I wanted start with the design process, since I usually spend a week or so on that part, and then go into some of the actually carving and the tools and methods I use. It's not exactly a tutorial with plans and such, but you should be able to construct a cane of your own with a little bit of work.
> 
> ...


I am looking forward to your next post.


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## mpounders (Jun 22, 2010)

*Handle Designs*

So the shaft portion of the cane has been selected. The over all height of the cane will be measured from the highest part of the handle to the tip of the shaft, so it is important to include all of these elements when sizing the cane, always remembering that is easier to cut the cane shorter than it is to make it longer. A normal measurement used for canes is typically from the floor to the bend of a person's wrist. I like my canes a little taller and usually add 2-3 inches to the measurement to ensure I can cut some off if necessary. I have made canes that range from 32"-40" and that is a pretty common range if you are not making it specifically for a person.










Here are the patterns I like to use. I just drew these out using some French Curves and trying to come up with some designs I liked, although they are similar to some standards seen for canes. My thought was to have the handle to have a shape similar to a tree limb, but it also serves other purposes. You can place your hand on it in different positions, so it has some built-in flexibility in the height. It works well and is comfortable no matter which way the handle is pointed. The handle is long enough that both hands can be placed on top to assist in rising from a seated position. Here are some examples of other shapes also










The simple ball shape is also a surprisingly comfortable shape. Handles can be wrapped in cord or leather, although this is usually seen more on staffs. The cord gives a good grip and can be useful in emergencies, but I find it uncomfortable to my grip. Leather can be wrapped like a cord or laced on. You can also wet it and shape to a regular cane handle, but stitch the seams where the fingers will be placed for comfort. Antlers, bone and other products can also be used to make unique handles.

The grain direction in the handle is important, since a lot of weight will be placed on it. I usually run the grain from front to back and try to keep the weaker neck portion a little thicker to make it stronger. But I also connect my canes with a steel rod that provides added strength. Some times I will add a turned spacer below the handle with the grain running vertically to provide additional height and strength. This can also provide an area for carving that doesn't intefere with the grip. The handle below has such a spacer.










The spacer also serves another function. I like the bottom neck of the handle or the bottom of the spacer to be a little larger in diameter than the top of the cane shaft. I like to have alittle bead in this area, a little shadow that helps conceal the glue line joining the shaft to the handle. Some people use different exotic woods cut into washers that are used in a similar way to add visual interest between the two separate elements of the cane. But I use the little bead for an additional purpose! Some people will carry a cane or occasionally grip their cane in this area and I like to make it feel like I intended it to be gripped here, by some simple turnings, balls, or beads that delineate this also as a grip area. The spacer will allow me to make thinner handle to fit a smaller person's grip while having it taper down to a size that is sufficently large to make a nice transistion to the shaft. A taller spacer can also be elegant and it seems to add a kinda Windsor chair element. I did not care for the difference in the grain direction on the lacewood handle and spacer shown above. It looked too busy and had to many joints…just didn't feel right. Also, my hand felt a little cramped around the fingers. So I re-did basically the same shape in walnut and made the finger catch on the end of the handle smaller and more open. I made the handle thicker to be more comfortable in a larger hand and shortened the neck and included the bead element on it. I felt it was short enough and thick enough so that it would be strong with the steel rod attaching ti to the shaft. I usually prefer turning the beaded section on the lathe rather than carving it, but I carved and tapered this one because it allowed me to get the look I wanted with no seam at all.










So when I have decided on the shape I cut out the side profile on the bandsaw. In the next section, I'll talk about joining the pieces together and the tools and methods I use for shaping the handle. I may even try a short video on the shaping, if I can figure it out! Thanks for looking!


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## Eagle1 (Jan 4, 2010)

mpounders said:


> *Handle Designs*
> 
> So the shaft portion of the cane has been selected. The over all height of the cane will be measured from the highest part of the handle to the tip of the shaft, so it is important to include all of these elements when sizing the cane, always remembering that is easier to cut the cane shorter than it is to make it longer. A normal measurement used for canes is typically from the floor to the bend of a person's wrist. I like my canes a little taller and usually add 2-3 inches to the measurement to ensure I can cut some off if necessary. I have made canes that range from 32"-40" and that is a pretty common range if you are not making it specifically for a person.
> 
> ...


I have always liked your canes. Thanks for letting us know your process.


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## dustbunny (May 18, 2009)

mpounders said:


> *Handle Designs*
> 
> So the shaft portion of the cane has been selected. The over all height of the cane will be measured from the highest part of the handle to the tip of the shaft, so it is important to include all of these elements when sizing the cane, always remembering that is easier to cut the cane shorter than it is to make it longer. A normal measurement used for canes is typically from the floor to the bend of a person's wrist. I like my canes a little taller and usually add 2-3 inches to the measurement to ensure I can cut some off if necessary. I have made canes that range from 32"-40" and that is a pretty common range if you are not making it specifically for a person.
> 
> ...


Nice blog…
I am following along : )

Lisa


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## bnoles (Aug 25, 2007)

mpounders said:


> *Handle Designs*
> 
> So the shaft portion of the cane has been selected. The over all height of the cane will be measured from the highest part of the handle to the tip of the shaft, so it is important to include all of these elements when sizing the cane, always remembering that is easier to cut the cane shorter than it is to make it longer. A normal measurement used for canes is typically from the floor to the bend of a person's wrist. I like my canes a little taller and usually add 2-3 inches to the measurement to ensure I can cut some off if necessary. I have made canes that range from 32"-40" and that is a pretty common range if you are not making it specifically for a person.
> 
> ...


Thanks again for doing this. I'm staying glued to your blog and anxiously awaiting the next part


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## Chipncut (Aug 18, 2006)

mpounders said:


> *Handle Designs*
> 
> So the shaft portion of the cane has been selected. The over all height of the cane will be measured from the highest part of the handle to the tip of the shaft, so it is important to include all of these elements when sizing the cane, always remembering that is easier to cut the cane shorter than it is to make it longer. A normal measurement used for canes is typically from the floor to the bend of a person's wrist. I like my canes a little taller and usually add 2-3 inches to the measurement to ensure I can cut some off if necessary. I have made canes that range from 32"-40" and that is a pretty common range if you are not making it specifically for a person.
> 
> ...


*A great tutorial that everyone should see.*


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## mpounders (Jun 22, 2010)

*Shaping the handle*

It is usually easier to drill any holes needed in the handle before you actually start shaping it. I just clamp it up and use the drill press to drill my holes…. the one in the shaft is usually drilled with a cordless drill. I like to use a 5/16 or larger threaded rod to join the handles to the shaft. Some people prefer wooden tenons and use it as part of the design with an exposed wedged tenon. You do have to carve or shape that tenon on the shaft unless you use a wooden dowel. I prefer the threaded rod for a little added strength and weight…. I might bend it if I try hard enough, but it would be hard to break! The steel rod can also be bent slightly if needed to adjust for a crooked hole in the shaft…..epoxy fills up any gaps or looseness later on.









Now I mark my centerlines all around the handle and I will draw rough circles on the ends to give me an idea of when I have it roughly rounded out. I will be shaping this down, making a radius from the centerlines on top and bottom to the centerlines on the sides of the handles.









I use a combination of power tools and traditional gouges and hand tools for carving. Whatever makes the boring parts go quicker…..like sanding…like roughing out…like bandsawing! You can pretty much use whatever means you prefer to get it to a certain stage. But you will notice that I "carve" with the rotary tool just like I do with my knives. I bought a cheap rotary shaft tool with variable speed foot-pedal control from Harbor Freight for $50 and added a Foredom 44t handle that will allow me to use the large 1/4" burrs and bits for roughing out carvings. My favorite roughing out bit is the large carbide bit shown in the handle… it may be a mill end router bit? The large flame-shaped carbide burr is also useful, but doesn't leave as smooth a surface as the other (and it clogs up more, especially with slightly green wood). The sanding drums are also important. I cut roughly to shape with the bits, and then refine and get the smooth flowing parts with the drums.









Now for something completrely different (for me anyway)! Let's see if I can get a video to work that may demonstrate what I am struggling to impart.





Wow! It works! I may not be as stupid as I look (or sound)! Feel free to use knives, Dremels, sanding drums or whatever you find will work for you. I am told that an oscillating spindle sander does a bang-up job, but I have never had the opportunity to play with one. A little tip I picked up was to leave my sanding drums extending a bit out over the end of the drum. This allows that part of the drum to flex a bit and makes it more useful for shaping some contours.

Please feel free to ask any questions you might have if I have skipped over a detail that concerns you. I am pretty much just winging it on this as I am working on my current cane project. Thanks for looking!


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## Chipncut (Aug 18, 2006)

mpounders said:


> *Shaping the handle*
> 
> It is usually easier to drill any holes needed in the handle before you actually start shaping it. I just clamp it up and use the drill press to drill my holes…. the one in the shaft is usually drilled with a cordless drill. I like to use a 5/16 or larger threaded rod to join the handles to the shaft. Some people prefer wooden tenons and use it as part of the design with an exposed wedged tenon. You do have to carve or shape that tenon on the shaft unless you use a wooden dowel. I prefer the threaded rod for a little added strength and weight…. I might bend it if I try hard enough, but it would be hard to break! The steel rod can also be bent slightly if needed to adjust for a crooked hole in the shaft…..epoxy fills up any gaps or looseness later on.
> 
> ...


*Thanks for sharing this great video.

You're about as good as a video producer as you are a carver.*


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## bnoles (Aug 25, 2007)

mpounders said:


> *Shaping the handle*
> 
> It is usually easier to drill any holes needed in the handle before you actually start shaping it. I just clamp it up and use the drill press to drill my holes…. the one in the shaft is usually drilled with a cordless drill. I like to use a 5/16 or larger threaded rod to join the handles to the shaft. Some people prefer wooden tenons and use it as part of the design with an exposed wedged tenon. You do have to carve or shape that tenon on the shaft unless you use a wooden dowel. I prefer the threaded rod for a little added strength and weight…. I might bend it if I try hard enough, but it would be hard to break! The steel rod can also be bent slightly if needed to adjust for a crooked hole in the shaft…..epoxy fills up any gaps or looseness later on.
> 
> ...


Still tracking this Mike…. Thanks!

Great video…. hope you do more!


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## dustbunny (May 18, 2009)

mpounders said:


> *Shaping the handle*
> 
> It is usually easier to drill any holes needed in the handle before you actually start shaping it. I just clamp it up and use the drill press to drill my holes…. the one in the shaft is usually drilled with a cordless drill. I like to use a 5/16 or larger threaded rod to join the handles to the shaft. Some people prefer wooden tenons and use it as part of the design with an exposed wedged tenon. You do have to carve or shape that tenon on the shaft unless you use a wooden dowel. I prefer the threaded rod for a little added strength and weight…. I might bend it if I try hard enough, but it would be hard to break! The steel rod can also be bent slightly if needed to adjust for a crooked hole in the shaft…..epoxy fills up any gaps or looseness later on.
> 
> ...


Love the video, great work !!
Still following….

Lisa


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## Maveric777 (Dec 23, 2009)

mpounders said:


> *Shaping the handle*
> 
> It is usually easier to drill any holes needed in the handle before you actually start shaping it. I just clamp it up and use the drill press to drill my holes…. the one in the shaft is usually drilled with a cordless drill. I like to use a 5/16 or larger threaded rod to join the handles to the shaft. Some people prefer wooden tenons and use it as part of the design with an exposed wedged tenon. You do have to carve or shape that tenon on the shaft unless you use a wooden dowel. I prefer the threaded rod for a little added strength and weight…. I might bend it if I try hard enough, but it would be hard to break! The steel rod can also be bent slightly if needed to adjust for a crooked hole in the shaft…..epoxy fills up any gaps or looseness later on.
> 
> ...


I too enjoyed the video. Thanks for sharing Mike and look forward to seeing more…


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## Dez (Mar 28, 2007)

mpounders said:


> *Shaping the handle*
> 
> It is usually easier to drill any holes needed in the handle before you actually start shaping it. I just clamp it up and use the drill press to drill my holes…. the one in the shaft is usually drilled with a cordless drill. I like to use a 5/16 or larger threaded rod to join the handles to the shaft. Some people prefer wooden tenons and use it as part of the design with an exposed wedged tenon. You do have to carve or shape that tenon on the shaft unless you use a wooden dowel. I prefer the threaded rod for a little added strength and weight…. I might bend it if I try hard enough, but it would be hard to break! The steel rod can also be bent slightly if needed to adjust for a crooked hole in the shaft…..epoxy fills up any gaps or looseness later on.
> 
> ...


Good video and how-to! I will be waiting for the next installment. Where did you find your Foredom handle? It looks like it will run as much or more than the HF flex shaft grinder.


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## TJ65 (Jan 19, 2010)

mpounders said:


> *Shaping the handle*
> 
> It is usually easier to drill any holes needed in the handle before you actually start shaping it. I just clamp it up and use the drill press to drill my holes…. the one in the shaft is usually drilled with a cordless drill. I like to use a 5/16 or larger threaded rod to join the handles to the shaft. Some people prefer wooden tenons and use it as part of the design with an exposed wedged tenon. You do have to carve or shape that tenon on the shaft unless you use a wooden dowel. I prefer the threaded rod for a little added strength and weight…. I might bend it if I try hard enough, but it would be hard to break! The steel rod can also be bent slightly if needed to adjust for a crooked hole in the shaft…..epoxy fills up any gaps or looseness later on.
> 
> ...


Hey thanks, you did great with the video thing and it wasn't that boriing either!! 
Love the size of your bits, Compared to the small dremel ones I am using, they look huge!
Enjoying your series too.
Thanks


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## mpounders (Jun 22, 2010)

mpounders said:


> *Shaping the handle*
> 
> It is usually easier to drill any holes needed in the handle before you actually start shaping it. I just clamp it up and use the drill press to drill my holes…. the one in the shaft is usually drilled with a cordless drill. I like to use a 5/16 or larger threaded rod to join the handles to the shaft. Some people prefer wooden tenons and use it as part of the design with an exposed wedged tenon. You do have to carve or shape that tenon on the shaft unless you use a wooden dowel. I prefer the threaded rod for a little added strength and weight…. I might bend it if I try hard enough, but it would be hard to break! The steel rod can also be bent slightly if needed to adjust for a crooked hole in the shaft…..epoxy fills up any gaps or looseness later on.
> 
> ...


Yeah, I bought the Foredom handpiece specifically to take the larger burrs and it did cost almost as much ast the HF ginder! (I got it form Smokey Mountain Woodcarvers for $40 something). The HF grinder comes with a 3 jaw chuck that handles anything smaller that 1/4" and the Foredom has 3 different sizes of collets. So, for less than $100, I got a foot pedal controlled grinder and two interchangeable handpieses, which does come in handy when I am switching back and forth between bits. My thinking was that the grinder was really cheap, but I can buy 5 of them for the price of a foredom. Or, if I am successful enough to buy a foredom (or mastercarver) I will already have extra handpieces that I can use with the new grinder! So far, it has not failed and I really like the foot pedal control, despite the lower RPMs compared to my Dremel.


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## Rustic (Jul 21, 2008)

mpounders said:


> *Shaping the handle*
> 
> It is usually easier to drill any holes needed in the handle before you actually start shaping it. I just clamp it up and use the drill press to drill my holes…. the one in the shaft is usually drilled with a cordless drill. I like to use a 5/16 or larger threaded rod to join the handles to the shaft. Some people prefer wooden tenons and use it as part of the design with an exposed wedged tenon. You do have to carve or shape that tenon on the shaft unless you use a wooden dowel. I prefer the threaded rod for a little added strength and weight…. I might bend it if I try hard enough, but it would be hard to break! The steel rod can also be bent slightly if needed to adjust for a crooked hole in the shaft…..epoxy fills up any gaps or looseness later on.
> 
> ...


Hey Mike Love the Video. I have a dremel type tool (Toughtest) is it possible to add a foot pedal without having to modify anything? ust plug and go. My toughtest has a variable speed adjust on it.


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## mpounders (Jun 22, 2010)

mpounders said:


> *Shaping the handle*
> 
> It is usually easier to drill any holes needed in the handle before you actually start shaping it. I just clamp it up and use the drill press to drill my holes…. the one in the shaft is usually drilled with a cordless drill. I like to use a 5/16 or larger threaded rod to join the handles to the shaft. Some people prefer wooden tenons and use it as part of the design with an exposed wedged tenon. You do have to carve or shape that tenon on the shaft unless you use a wooden dowel. I prefer the threaded rod for a little added strength and weight…. I might bend it if I try hard enough, but it would be hard to break! The steel rod can also be bent slightly if needed to adjust for a crooked hole in the shaft…..epoxy fills up any gaps or looseness later on.
> 
> ...


I'm guessing no on the footpedal speed control…. at best it just wouldn't work and at worst, it might damage your tool. You could use a deadman on-off type foot pedal to just turn it on and off and use the variable speed on the tool to adjust the speed, but all this is really kind of wasted unless you are using some type of flex-shaft with your dremel…... the controls are right there on the machine in your hand! I still use my dremel for some things, but you'll probably pay $20-$30 for a footpedal of any type….for another $20 you get the HF tool. Here is a link to it. HF flex shaft


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## Rustic (Jul 21, 2008)

mpounders said:


> *Shaping the handle*
> 
> It is usually easier to drill any holes needed in the handle before you actually start shaping it. I just clamp it up and use the drill press to drill my holes…. the one in the shaft is usually drilled with a cordless drill. I like to use a 5/16 or larger threaded rod to join the handles to the shaft. Some people prefer wooden tenons and use it as part of the design with an exposed wedged tenon. You do have to carve or shape that tenon on the shaft unless you use a wooden dowel. I prefer the threaded rod for a little added strength and weight…. I might bend it if I try hard enough, but it would be hard to break! The steel rod can also be bent slightly if needed to adjust for a crooked hole in the shaft…..epoxy fills up any gaps or looseness later on.
> 
> ...


thanks a bunch


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## mpounders (Jun 22, 2010)

*Laying out and carving the leaves*

I like some of the beautiful gunstocks that I have seen and I like incorporating some of those carved elements in some canes that I do. These designs seem to work well in canes for both men and women, depending on how they are done. You can get patterns from leather working books and I have seen some canes carved using a pattern for a belt that was simply spiraled around the cane. You can trace leaves from your backyard and then use a copier to resize them to fit your cane, but I just draw mine out freehand. You could draw them directly on the cane. Drawing the leaves on paper adds a few extra steps, but you can cut them out and use them as templates. This allows you to refine your design by taping them in different spots along the shaft, to see what you like best. It helps to have different leaf shapes, but these can be resized and used in different combinations of leaves without having to recreate a uniques design for each individual leaf. You just overlap them and position them in different combinations. I use graphite paper to transfer the patterns and then go back over it with a pencil or marker. I have used small pounce wheels and pin pricks on designs where I will be able to carve away the little dots it leaves. And some people use a really hard pencil that will indent the wood thru the pattern without using graphite paper. This can be useful for delicate detailing on bird feathers, but I have trouble seeing the lines using this method. Here are a few pictures illustrating what I've been talking about.


















Here is another video detailing the process of carving the pattern. I will be using a #11 gouge and a carving knife for the relief carving, followed by some power carving to five it some flow.

*I have to warn you and apologize in advance…......the video is about 13 minutes long, so brace yourself!*






Thanks for looking! Next up will be some woodburning and texturing techniques.


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## Jimthecarver (Jan 14, 2008)

mpounders said:


> *Laying out and carving the leaves*
> 
> I like some of the beautiful gunstocks that I have seen and I like incorporating some of those carved elements in some canes that I do. These designs seem to work well in canes for both men and women, depending on how they are done. You can get patterns from leather working books and I have seen some canes carved using a pattern for a belt that was simply spiraled around the cane. You can trace leaves from your backyard and then use a copier to resize them to fit your cane, but I just draw mine out freehand. You could draw them directly on the cane. Drawing the leaves on paper adds a few extra steps, but you can cut them out and use them as templates. This allows you to refine your design by taping them in different spots along the shaft, to see what you like best. It helps to have different leaf shapes, but these can be resized and used in different combinations of leaves without having to recreate a uniques design for each individual leaf. You just overlap them and position them in different combinations. I use graphite paper to transfer the patterns and then go back over it with a pencil or marker. I have used small pounce wheels and pin pricks on designs where I will be able to carve away the little dots it leaves. And some people use a really hard pencil that will indent the wood thru the pattern without using graphite paper. This can be useful for delicate detailing on bird feathers, but I have trouble seeing the lines using this method. Here are a few pictures illustrating what I've been talking about.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the video. 
Any tips or tricks we can learn is a feather in our carving caps.
I look forward to the next one in the series.


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## Dez (Mar 28, 2007)

mpounders said:


> *Laying out and carving the leaves*
> 
> I like some of the beautiful gunstocks that I have seen and I like incorporating some of those carved elements in some canes that I do. These designs seem to work well in canes for both men and women, depending on how they are done. You can get patterns from leather working books and I have seen some canes carved using a pattern for a belt that was simply spiraled around the cane. You can trace leaves from your backyard and then use a copier to resize them to fit your cane, but I just draw mine out freehand. You could draw them directly on the cane. Drawing the leaves on paper adds a few extra steps, but you can cut them out and use them as templates. This allows you to refine your design by taping them in different spots along the shaft, to see what you like best. It helps to have different leaf shapes, but these can be resized and used in different combinations of leaves without having to recreate a uniques design for each individual leaf. You just overlap them and position them in different combinations. I use graphite paper to transfer the patterns and then go back over it with a pencil or marker. I have used small pounce wheels and pin pricks on designs where I will be able to carve away the little dots it leaves. And some people use a really hard pencil that will indent the wood thru the pattern without using graphite paper. This can be useful for delicate detailing on bird feathers, but I have trouble seeing the lines using this method. Here are a few pictures illustrating what I've been talking about.
> 
> ...


If I can handle sitting through a 2 hour ""chick flick" with my wife I can easily handle 15 minutes of instruction on carving! More excellent tips! Thanks for taking the time to do this!


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## bnoles (Aug 25, 2007)

mpounders said:


> *Laying out and carving the leaves*
> 
> I like some of the beautiful gunstocks that I have seen and I like incorporating some of those carved elements in some canes that I do. These designs seem to work well in canes for both men and women, depending on how they are done. You can get patterns from leather working books and I have seen some canes carved using a pattern for a belt that was simply spiraled around the cane. You can trace leaves from your backyard and then use a copier to resize them to fit your cane, but I just draw mine out freehand. You could draw them directly on the cane. Drawing the leaves on paper adds a few extra steps, but you can cut them out and use them as templates. This allows you to refine your design by taping them in different spots along the shaft, to see what you like best. It helps to have different leaf shapes, but these can be resized and used in different combinations of leaves without having to recreate a uniques design for each individual leaf. You just overlap them and position them in different combinations. I use graphite paper to transfer the patterns and then go back over it with a pencil or marker. I have used small pounce wheels and pin pricks on designs where I will be able to carve away the little dots it leaves. And some people use a really hard pencil that will indent the wood thru the pattern without using graphite paper. This can be useful for delicate detailing on bird feathers, but I have trouble seeing the lines using this method. Here are a few pictures illustrating what I've been talking about.
> 
> ...


Thanks again Mike!


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## MsDebbieP (Jan 4, 2007)

mpounders said:


> *Laying out and carving the leaves*
> 
> I like some of the beautiful gunstocks that I have seen and I like incorporating some of those carved elements in some canes that I do. These designs seem to work well in canes for both men and women, depending on how they are done. You can get patterns from leather working books and I have seen some canes carved using a pattern for a belt that was simply spiraled around the cane. You can trace leaves from your backyard and then use a copier to resize them to fit your cane, but I just draw mine out freehand. You could draw them directly on the cane. Drawing the leaves on paper adds a few extra steps, but you can cut them out and use them as templates. This allows you to refine your design by taping them in different spots along the shaft, to see what you like best. It helps to have different leaf shapes, but these can be resized and used in different combinations of leaves without having to recreate a uniques design for each individual leaf. You just overlap them and position them in different combinations. I use graphite paper to transfer the patterns and then go back over it with a pencil or marker. I have used small pounce wheels and pin pricks on designs where I will be able to carve away the little dots it leaves. And some people use a really hard pencil that will indent the wood thru the pattern without using graphite paper. This can be useful for delicate detailing on bird feathers, but I have trouble seeing the lines using this method. Here are a few pictures illustrating what I've been talking about.
> 
> ...


that is so amazing to see the leaf appear in the wood…...


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## mpounders (Jun 22, 2010)

mpounders said:


> *Laying out and carving the leaves*
> 
> I like some of the beautiful gunstocks that I have seen and I like incorporating some of those carved elements in some canes that I do. These designs seem to work well in canes for both men and women, depending on how they are done. You can get patterns from leather working books and I have seen some canes carved using a pattern for a belt that was simply spiraled around the cane. You can trace leaves from your backyard and then use a copier to resize them to fit your cane, but I just draw mine out freehand. You could draw them directly on the cane. Drawing the leaves on paper adds a few extra steps, but you can cut them out and use them as templates. This allows you to refine your design by taping them in different spots along the shaft, to see what you like best. It helps to have different leaf shapes, but these can be resized and used in different combinations of leaves without having to recreate a uniques design for each individual leaf. You just overlap them and position them in different combinations. I use graphite paper to transfer the patterns and then go back over it with a pencil or marker. I have used small pounce wheels and pin pricks on designs where I will be able to carve away the little dots it leaves. And some people use a really hard pencil that will indent the wood thru the pattern without using graphite paper. This can be useful for delicate detailing on bird feathers, but I have trouble seeing the lines using this method. Here are a few pictures illustrating what I've been talking about.
> 
> ...


If you carve leaves, you get a lot of practice opportunities! Nobody ever says " and I want just a single leaf on the cane….". You would find it pretty easy after carving a shoe! Some people will take a thin piece of basswood, trace a maple leaf on it and carve it and paint it and then make a pin out of it, by gluing one of those little claspy-thinies on the back. .....you could make one for your hat!


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## JohnGray (Oct 6, 2007)

mpounders said:


> *Laying out and carving the leaves*
> 
> I like some of the beautiful gunstocks that I have seen and I like incorporating some of those carved elements in some canes that I do. These designs seem to work well in canes for both men and women, depending on how they are done. You can get patterns from leather working books and I have seen some canes carved using a pattern for a belt that was simply spiraled around the cane. You can trace leaves from your backyard and then use a copier to resize them to fit your cane, but I just draw mine out freehand. You could draw them directly on the cane. Drawing the leaves on paper adds a few extra steps, but you can cut them out and use them as templates. This allows you to refine your design by taping them in different spots along the shaft, to see what you like best. It helps to have different leaf shapes, but these can be resized and used in different combinations of leaves without having to recreate a uniques design for each individual leaf. You just overlap them and position them in different combinations. I use graphite paper to transfer the patterns and then go back over it with a pencil or marker. I have used small pounce wheels and pin pricks on designs where I will be able to carve away the little dots it leaves. And some people use a really hard pencil that will indent the wood thru the pattern without using graphite paper. This can be useful for delicate detailing on bird feathers, but I have trouble seeing the lines using this method. Here are a few pictures illustrating what I've been talking about.
> 
> ...


Nice video, THANKS.
How wide is the No. 11 gouge that you are using?


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## mpounders (Jun 22, 2010)

mpounders said:


> *Laying out and carving the leaves*
> 
> I like some of the beautiful gunstocks that I have seen and I like incorporating some of those carved elements in some canes that I do. These designs seem to work well in canes for both men and women, depending on how they are done. You can get patterns from leather working books and I have seen some canes carved using a pattern for a belt that was simply spiraled around the cane. You can trace leaves from your backyard and then use a copier to resize them to fit your cane, but I just draw mine out freehand. You could draw them directly on the cane. Drawing the leaves on paper adds a few extra steps, but you can cut them out and use them as templates. This allows you to refine your design by taping them in different spots along the shaft, to see what you like best. It helps to have different leaf shapes, but these can be resized and used in different combinations of leaves without having to recreate a uniques design for each individual leaf. You just overlap them and position them in different combinations. I use graphite paper to transfer the patterns and then go back over it with a pencil or marker. I have used small pounce wheels and pin pricks on designs where I will be able to carve away the little dots it leaves. And some people use a really hard pencil that will indent the wood thru the pattern without using graphite paper. This can be useful for delicate detailing on bird feathers, but I have trouble seeing the lines using this method. Here are a few pictures illustrating what I've been talking about.
> 
> ...


It is a 2mm gouge, about 1/16". I use #11s a lot, in various sizes. I got a thumbnail grind put on most of my gouges and I have really liked that. Let's me undercut things more.


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## mpounders (Jun 22, 2010)

*Smoothing the background*










This is brief entry on smoothing and preparing the background. I do this to make the carved leaves and limbs really pop out from the background and it also makes the woodburning and other texturing go better. You really need a smooth surface to do good shading with a woodburner. So, I use a little cushioned drum sander to do most of the initial sanding and smoothing and then go over it all by hand, removing any little ridges or marks on the background left by my gouge or knife cuts. I am also removing the brownish cambium layer that was underneath the bark. It does provide a lot of contrast in some areas, but I think it makes the carving look blotchy, with almost a muddy appearance when it is finished. I did a little burning and shading on my test piece to see if it is going to work like I want it. I'll probably do some sample staining and finishin also…...it's kinda dangerous to be burning wood with a finish, but I want to see what it will look like after it is finished! Hence the need for little sample pieces to allow me to try differnt things before committing to one technique for texturing. It may start going really fast at this point, or it could take a while to get exactly what I am looking for!










And a short video clip. I am hoping that video will give a better view of a finished cane that photgraphs. It is difficult to photgraph and show all the details on canes, at least for me.


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## Dez (Mar 28, 2007)

mpounders said:


> *Smoothing the background*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Once again, thanks! I really appreciate the time and effort you have taken to provide us with these tips and how to's.


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## wizzardofwood (Jul 18, 2010)

mpounders said:


> *Smoothing the background*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


great job well done


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## TJ65 (Jan 19, 2010)

mpounders said:


> *Smoothing the background*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


looks good so far


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## mpounders (Jun 22, 2010)

*Woodburning the leaves*

Once I have the main forms roughed in, the fun begins with doing the details. This is my favorite part, since things really start to look good, to come into focus. Ususally, this part also goes pretty quick, in part because I think I get so involved with it that I ignore everything else and just zoom right through it. And since it is the fun part, sometimes carvers like to get right to this part instead of doing all of the important things that lead up to it.

*It is real important to block out all the main shapes and forms before doing any detailed carving.*

If you remember nothing else, this may be the most important thing to help you with your carving. It really doesn't matter how well you can carve an eye or a nose if it is not placed properly with all of the elements of the head or face you are carving. Do not start working on the details until after you have everything blocked in. I force myself to draw all my leaves and limbs before I start outlining the first one. I force myself to outline and relieve all the leaves and vines and clean up the background before I allow myself to start doing the details. Following the steps will allow you to make changes or corrections or fix mistakes or change the whole design. So after sanding the stick with a drum and by hand, it is now ready to some details, some finer points to really make the carving pop. I want people to see this cane and want to hold it, to look closer at the details. And I am still using my sample piece, to make sure I have the temperature correct and to see how I like the look. It also functions to warm me up, to get my fingers doing what I want them to, no matter if it's carving, burning, or painting. I guess it's kinda like stretching for a runner. So, flame on! Let's burn something!





Thanks for looking!


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## TJ65 (Jan 19, 2010)

mpounders said:


> *Woodburning the leaves*
> 
> Once I have the main forms roughed in, the fun begins with doing the details. This is my favorite part, since things really start to look good, to come into focus. Ususally, this part also goes pretty quick, in part because I think I get so involved with it that I ignore everything else and just zoom right through it. And since it is the fun part, sometimes carvers like to get right to this part instead of doing all of the important things that lead up to it.
> 
> ...


Ooooh now you have done it! It looks as tho the pockets will be getting a little lighter. 
I think I need a proper woodburning tool and not like the cheap one I have already.
Also thanks for another great video


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## MsDebbieP (Jan 4, 2007)

mpounders said:


> *Woodburning the leaves*
> 
> Once I have the main forms roughed in, the fun begins with doing the details. This is my favorite part, since things really start to look good, to come into focus. Ususally, this part also goes pretty quick, in part because I think I get so involved with it that I ignore everything else and just zoom right through it. And since it is the fun part, sometimes carvers like to get right to this part instead of doing all of the important things that lead up to it.
> 
> ...


it is so wonderful to see these techniques being done in video - so helpful!
Thank you


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## mpounders (Jun 22, 2010)

mpounders said:


> *Woodburning the leaves*
> 
> Once I have the main forms roughed in, the fun begins with doing the details. This is my favorite part, since things really start to look good, to come into focus. Ususally, this part also goes pretty quick, in part because I think I get so involved with it that I ignore everything else and just zoom right through it. And since it is the fun part, sometimes carvers like to get right to this part instead of doing all of the important things that lead up to it.
> 
> ...


I have had several single temperature burners and I wasted time and money trying to reshape the tips and using dimmer switches to try and control the temp and still having a clunky piece of equipment. You will be amazed at the difference in how you can use a better model pyrographic pen! You can do fine temperature adjustments to avoid charring the wood and you can do really delicate cross-hatching, shading, etc. Have a look at this site http://www.pyrographyonline.com/ for some examples and tips from greats like Sue Walters and Susan Irish and others.


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## Dez (Mar 28, 2007)

mpounders said:


> *Woodburning the leaves*
> 
> Once I have the main forms roughed in, the fun begins with doing the details. This is my favorite part, since things really start to look good, to come into focus. Ususally, this part also goes pretty quick, in part because I think I get so involved with it that I ignore everything else and just zoom right through it. And since it is the fun part, sometimes carvers like to get right to this part instead of doing all of the important things that lead up to it.
> 
> ...


Coming along nicely! You have a good eye for detail. Thanks for the tutorial!


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## TJ65 (Jan 19, 2010)

mpounders said:


> *Woodburning the leaves*
> 
> Once I have the main forms roughed in, the fun begins with doing the details. This is my favorite part, since things really start to look good, to come into focus. Ususally, this part also goes pretty quick, in part because I think I get so involved with it that I ignore everything else and just zoom right through it. And since it is the fun part, sometimes carvers like to get right to this part instead of doing all of the important things that lead up to it.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the info about problems with your single temp burners and the pyrographic link. I didn't know there was a forum on the subject!


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## pepsiman (Jun 8, 2011)

mpounders said:


> *Woodburning the leaves*
> 
> Once I have the main forms roughed in, the fun begins with doing the details. This is my favorite part, since things really start to look good, to come into focus. Ususally, this part also goes pretty quick, in part because I think I get so involved with it that I ignore everything else and just zoom right through it. And since it is the fun part, sometimes carvers like to get right to this part instead of doing all of the important things that lead up to it.
> 
> ...


I realy like your cars in the display. where can I get the patterns . just got started woodworking and I do not know a lot about it. Any help you could give me would be greatly appreciated.


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## mpounders (Jun 22, 2010)

*Finishing Up*

I should be completeing this cane in the next day or two, but it is pretty much completed for all practical purposes. I did manage to cobble together a short video showing some additional texturing techniques that I used to finish off the woodburning. I put a couple of coats of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits on it to "yellow" it a little bit. And I have got the handle epoxied to the shaft using the pipe clamp jig in the video. I'll brush it offf good and put on a couple of coats of Minwax satin polyurethane. I let it soak in a bit and then wipe it off with a paper towel. I 'll make sure the handle is nice and shiny and I'll finish it off with a rubber furniture tip on the bottom. I appreciate everyone's patience and any tips anyone might share on video cameras and editing software would be appreciated. I sure would like to edit these videos before posting but haven't found anything to edit .MOV files on a Windows PC! Thanks for following along and comments and advice are welcomed!


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## TJ65 (Jan 19, 2010)

mpounders said:


> *Finishing Up*
> 
> I should be completeing this cane in the next day or two, but it is pretty much completed for all practical purposes. I did manage to cobble together a short video showing some additional texturing techniques that I used to finish off the woodburning. I put a couple of coats of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits on it to "yellow" it a little bit. And I have got the handle epoxied to the shaft using the pipe clamp jig in the video. I'll brush it offf good and put on a couple of coats of Minwax satin polyurethane. I let it soak in a bit and then wipe it off with a paper towel. I 'll make sure the handle is nice and shiny and I'll finish it off with a rubber furniture tip on the bottom. I appreciate everyone's patience and any tips anyone might share on video cameras and editing software would be appreciated. I sure would like to edit these videos before posting but haven't found anything to edit .MOV files on a Windows PC! Thanks for following along and comments and advice are welcomed!


Thanks for another (somewhat) great video- sorry cant help with the editing side of things. Maybe you should post a question about it here somewhere . I am sure someone will know something or somewhere to go.
But your info in invaluable, soooo much better to understand how the process goes in a video.


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## MsDebbieP (Jan 4, 2007)

mpounders said:


> *Finishing Up*
> 
> I should be completeing this cane in the next day or two, but it is pretty much completed for all practical purposes. I did manage to cobble together a short video showing some additional texturing techniques that I used to finish off the woodburning. I put a couple of coats of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits on it to "yellow" it a little bit. And I have got the handle epoxied to the shaft using the pipe clamp jig in the video. I'll brush it offf good and put on a couple of coats of Minwax satin polyurethane. I let it soak in a bit and then wipe it off with a paper towel. I 'll make sure the handle is nice and shiny and I'll finish it off with a rubber furniture tip on the bottom. I appreciate everyone's patience and any tips anyone might share on video cameras and editing software would be appreciated. I sure would like to edit these videos before posting but haven't found anything to edit .MOV files on a Windows PC! Thanks for following along and comments and advice are welcomed!


from me as well - thank you so much for sharing your wisdom and for taking the time to put the video/tutorials together


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## Dez (Mar 28, 2007)

mpounders said:


> *Finishing Up*
> 
> I should be completeing this cane in the next day or two, but it is pretty much completed for all practical purposes. I did manage to cobble together a short video showing some additional texturing techniques that I used to finish off the woodburning. I put a couple of coats of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits on it to "yellow" it a little bit. And I have got the handle epoxied to the shaft using the pipe clamp jig in the video. I'll brush it offf good and put on a couple of coats of Minwax satin polyurethane. I let it soak in a bit and then wipe it off with a paper towel. I 'll make sure the handle is nice and shiny and I'll finish it off with a rubber furniture tip on the bottom. I appreciate everyone's patience and any tips anyone might share on video cameras and editing software would be appreciated. I sure would like to edit these videos before posting but haven't found anything to edit .MOV files on a Windows PC! Thanks for following along and comments and advice are welcomed!


Ditto! Thanks for taking the time and putting forth the effort to help us learn.
For editing .mov files on a PC try this page at eHow
and here is the link to Windows Live Essentials (Movie Maker)


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